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 Livingstone's Africa iperllous adventure 
 
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 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924010246357 
 
BATID LIVTNeSTONE. 
 
H. M. STANLEr. 
 
LIYOGSTOIE'S AFRICA. 
 
 PERILOUS ADVENTURES AND EXTENSIVE DISCOVERIES 
 
 IN THE 
 
 Interior of Afeica, 
 
 OP 
 
 DAVID LIVINGSTONE, LL.D., D.C.L., 
 
 TOGETHER WITH 
 
 THE REMARKABLE SUCCESS AND IMPORTANT RESULTS 
 
 OP THE 
 
 Hkrald-Stanley Expedition, 
 
 AS FURNISHED BY H. M. STANLEY, ESQ., 
 
 SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT OF THE NEW YORK HERALD. 
 
 BEINO 
 
 A COMPLETE RELIABLE AND GRAPHIC HISTORY OP THE EXTENSIVE EXPLORATIONS, IMPOR- 
 TANT DISCOVERIES AND THRILLING ADVENTURES OF THE GREATEST EXPLORER OF MODERN 
 TIMES, IN THE RICHEST AND WILDEST COUNTRY UPON THE FACE OF THE EARTH. 
 AMONG SAVAGE MEN, FEROCIOUS BEASTS, DEADLY REPTILES, POISONOUS INSECTS. 
 ETC., ETC., COVERING A PERIOD OF NEARLY THIRTY YEARS, AND INCLUD- 
 ING A FULL AND GRAPHIC ACCOUNT OF THE HERALD-STANLEY EXPE- 
 DITION AND WHAT IT EXPERIENCED AND ACCOMPLISHED; ALSO, 
 THE LAST LETTERS PENNED BY TDE GREAT EXPLORER, THE 
 FULL ACCOUNT OF HIS LONELY DEATH, RETORN OF THE 
 REMAINS TO ENGLAND, DURIAL,' ETC., ETC. 
 
 To which is added a Sketch of other Important Discoveries in Africa, 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 THE CELEBRATED DIAMOND DIGGINGS AT COLESBERG KOBJH. Km.; 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVlko^// 
 
 SOLD ONLY BY SUBSCRIPTION. 
 
 HUBBARD BROS., PHILADELPHIA, BOSTON, AND CINCINNATI ; 
 
 V^i.LEV l>uiiLiSHJNG Co., St. Louib, AND CHICAGO; A. L. BiifCROPT & Co., San Fran- 
 
 CISCO Cal.; H. a. W. Blackburn, Detroit, Mich.; John Fleeharty, 
 
 Davenpokt, Iowa; Schuyleb, Smith & Co., London, Ont. 
 
 HDIO I inrMir,..- 
 
DT 
 
 731 
 L15 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the ^ear 1872, by 
 
 HUBBAUD BROS., 
 
 la the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 
 
 oozlm'\ 
 
 Cb 
 
PUBLISHERS' PREFACE. 
 
 The interest taken in modern times in books of travel 
 is significant of the growing feeling of sympathy with all 
 manifestations of human activity. The railroad and the 
 telegraph have brought the most distant nations int€ 
 closer commercial and social relations than it was possible 
 to create, even fifty years ago. The nations of the East, 
 India, China, Japan, Turkey, have all begun to feel the 
 need of opening their gates to the advent of civilization. 
 Even the tribes of Central Africa have been made better 
 acquainted with the rest of the world, through the labors 
 of recent explorers, than they have ever been befoile. 
 Among these travellers, who have devoted the best 
 energies of their lives in exploring these hitherto inaccessi- 
 ble countries, the most distinguished is Doctor Living- 
 stone. His enthusiasm, his real Christian charity, his 
 devotion to the abolition of the slave trade — that curse' 
 of Africa — have made the accounts of his explorations 
 peculiarly interesting to all classes of intelligent readers. 
 The publishers of this volume, therefore, present it to the 
 public with confidence. It contains, in a compact form, 
 the history of all of Doctor Livingstone's voyages of dis- 
 covery, and at a price which will enable those to possess it 
 
vi publishers' peepace, 
 
 who could not afford to purchase the expensive volumes in 
 which the results of his explorations were originally pub- 
 lished. Nothing has been omitted that would be of 
 interest to the general reader. Only such records of 
 scientific observations, as would be of use only to the special 
 fudents iu their various branches of scientific research, 
 are not here reproduced. The accounts, from Doctor 
 Livingstone himself, of his successive voyages ; the origin 
 of the reports of his death ; the result of the search expe- 
 dition, sent out by the New York Herald, under Mr. 
 Stanley ; the letters in which Doctor Livingstone narrates 
 what he was doing while the world supposed him dead ; 
 the results of his discoveries, and what he expects to do to 
 complete his life-long devotion to African exploration, 
 will be found in the pages of this volume, told with that 
 charm of simplicity of style which has made his former 
 narrations so interesting and popular. 
 
 Of the style in which the volume is prepared, and for 
 which the publishers are responsible, they feel it unneces- 
 sary to say more than that no care or pains have been 
 spared upon it. The book will speak for itself; and they 
 feel assured that their efforts to please will be duly appre- 
 ciated by the public 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Personal Sketch— Highland Ancestors— Family Traditions- -Grandfather re- 
 move* to the Lowlands — Parents — Early Labors and Efforts — Eresing 
 Sohool — LoTO of Beading — Beligious Impressions — Medical Education — 
 Yonthful Travels — Qeology— Mental Discipline — Study in Glasgow — London 
 Missionary Society — Native Village — Medical Diploma — Theological Studies 
 — Departure for Africa No Claim to Literary Accomplishments Page 9 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The BakirSin Country — Study of the Language — MabStsa Station — A Lion 
 Encounter — Virus of the Teeth of Lions — Scch^le — Baptism of Seehels — 
 Opposition of the Natives — Purchase Land at Chonu&ne — Relations with 
 the People — Their Intelligence — Prolonged Drought — Consequent Trials — 
 The Hunting Hope 18 
 
 CHAPTER IL 
 
 The Boers — Their Treatment of the Natives — The Tale of the Cannon — The 
 Boers threaten Seohele— In violation of Treaty, they expel Missionaries — 
 They attack the Babwains — Their Mode of Fighting — The Natives killed 
 and the School-Children carried into Slavery — Destruction of English Pro- 
 perty — Continued Hostility of the Boers — The Journey North — Prepara- 
 tions— Fellow-Travellers 28 
 
 CHAPTER IIL 
 
 Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1S49 — Companions — Our Route — SerotlJ, 
 a Fountain in the Desert — The Hyena — The Chief Sekomi — Dangers — The 
 Wandering Guide — Cross Purposes — Slow Progress — Want of Water — The 
 Salt-Pan at Nchokotsa — The Mirage — Reach the River Zouga — The Quakers 
 
 3f Africa Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849 — Ita Extent — Small 
 
 Depth of Water — The Bamangwato and their Chief— Desire to visit Sebi- 
 tuane, the Chief of the Makololo — Refusal of Leohulatebe to furnish us with 
 Oaides — The Banks of tho Zouga. H 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Scbituane — Reach the ZougSi — The 
 XsStse^A Party of Englishmen — Death of Mr. Rider — Obtain Guides — 
 Children fall sick with Fever — Relinquish the Attempt to reach Sebituaoe — 
 Setum to Kolobeng— Make a Third Start thence- Reach Nchokotsa —Oui 
 
""' CONTENTS. 
 
 OaidB Shobo— The Banajda— An Ugly Chief— The Tsetse— Bite fatal to 
 Domcstio Animals, but haxmless to Wild Animals and Man — Operation ol 
 the Poison — Losses caused by it — The Makololo — Our Meeting with Sebi- 
 tuane — His Sudden Illness and Death — Succeeded by his Daughter— Her 
 Friendliness to us — Discovery, in June, 185X, of the Zambesi flowing in the 
 Centre of the Continent — Determine to send Family to England — -Keturn to 
 the Capo in April, 1S52 — Safe Transit through the Caffre Country during 
 Uostili'tios — Need of a " Special Correspondent" — Kindness of the London 
 Missionary Society — ^Assistance afforded by the Astronomer-Royal at the 
 Cape , Page 4-4 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Btart, in June, 1S52, on the Last and Longest Journey from- Capo Town — 
 Companions — Wagon-Travelling — Migration of Springbucks — The Orange 
 River — Territory of the Griquas and Bechuanas — The Griquas — The Chief 
 Waterboor — His Wise and Energetic Government — His Fidelity — Success 
 of the Missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas — Manifest Improve- 
 ment of the Native Character — Dress of the Natives — Articles of Commerce 
 in the Country of the Bechuanas — Their Unwillini^ness to learn aSi Readi- 
 ness to criticize...; &7 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 Caruman — Its fine Fountain — The Bible translated by Mr. Moffat — Capa- 
 bilities of the Language — Christianity among the Natives^Disgraocful 
 Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains — Letter from Sechele — Details of the- 
 Attack — Destruction of House and Property at Kolobeng — The Boers vow 
 Vengeance against me — Consequent DifBoulty of getting Servants to accom- 
 pany mo on my Journey — Start in November, 1852 — Meet Sechele on hia 
 way to England to obtain Redress from the Queen — Ho is unable to proceed 
 beyond the Cape — Meet Mr. Macabo on his Return from Lake Ngami — Reach 
 Litubaruba — The Cave Lepelole — Superstitions regarding it — Impoverished 
 State of the Balswalns — Retaliation on the Boers — Slavery — Attachment of 
 the Bechuanas to Children 63 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 Departure from the Country of the Bakwains — Large Black Ant — Habits of 
 Old Lions — Cowardice of the Lion — Its Dread of a Snare — Major Vardon'i 
 Note — The Roar of the Lion resembles the Cry of the Ostrich — Seldom 
 attacks full-grown Animals — Buffaloes and Lions — Sekomi's Ideas of Ho- 
 nesty — Gordon Cumming's Hunting Adventures — A Word of Advice foj 
 Youag Sportsmen — Bushwomen drawing Water. 73 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Effecta of Missionary Efforts — Belief in the Deity — Departure from theii 
 Couutry — Nchokotsa — The Bushmen — Their Superstitions — Elephant- Hant- 
 ing — The Chief Kaisa — His Fear of Responsibility — Severe Labor in cutting 
 our Way — Party seised with Fever — Discovery of Grape-Boaring Vines — 
 DifScnlty of passing through the Forest — Sickness of my Companion — The 
 Bushmen — Their Mode of destroying Lions — Poisons — A Pontooning Ex- 
 pedition — The Chobe — Arrive at the Village of Moremi — Surprise o* the 
 Makololo at our Sudden Appearance — Gross the Chobe on our w^ ti 
 Linyonti 80 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Reoeption at Linyanti — Tho Court Ilorald — Sekoletu obtains the Chioftainthip 
 from his Sistor — Sokeletu'a Reason for not learning to read the Bible--- 
 Public Religious Services in tho Kotla — Unfavorable Associations of tht" 
 Place — Native Doctors — Proposals to teach the Makololo to road — gekeletu's 
 Present — Reason for accoiuing it — Trading in Ivory — Accidental Jiro — 
 Presents forSokelntu Page 96 
 
 CHAPTEK X. 
 
 Ihe Fever — Its Symptoms — Romodios of tho Native Doctors — Hospitality of 
 Sokeletu and his People — They cultivato largely — Tho Makalaka or Subjeot 
 Tribes — Sobituauo's Policy respecting them — Their Affection for him — Pro* 
 ducts of tho Soil — Instrument of Culture — Tho Tribute — Distributed by the 
 Chief — A Warlike Demonstration — Lechulatobo's Provocations — The Ma- 
 kololo dotormino to punish him 104 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Departure from Linyanti for Sesheko — Level Country — Ant-Hills — Wild Date- 
 Trees — Appearance of our Attendants on the March — Tho Chief's Guard — 
 They attempt to ride on Oxback — Reception at the Villages — Presents of 
 Boor and Milk — Eating with the Hand-— Tho Chief provides tho Oxen for 
 Slaughter — Social Mode of Eating — Cleanliness of Makololo Huts — Their 
 Construction and Appearance — Tho Bods — Cross the Leeambye — Aspect of 
 this part of tho Country — Hunting — An Eland 109 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Profluro Canoes and ascena the Leeambye — Beautiful Islands — Winter Land- 
 
 gcgpo Industry and Skill of the Banyeti — Rapids — Falls of Gonyo — Nalicle, 
 
 tho Capital, built on an Artificial Mound — Santuru, a Oreat Hunter — 'The 
 
 Barotse More Religious Feeling — Belief in a Future State and in the 
 
 Esiatonco of Spiritual Beings — Hippopotamus-Hunters — No Healthy Loca- 
 tion Determine to go to Loanda — Buffaloes, Elands, and Lions above 
 
 monta Two Arabs from Zanzibar — Their Opinion of the Portuguese and 
 
 tho English — Reach tho Town of Ma-Sekeletu — Joy of tho People at tho 
 First Visit of their Chief— Return to Sesheke — Heathenism 116 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 
 Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey— A Picho— Twenty-Seven Men 
 fppointed to accompany mo to the West — Eagerness of the Makololo for 
 Diroct Trade with the Coast — Effects of Fever — A Makololo Question — Re- 
 flections Tho Outfit for tho Journey — 11th November, 1853, leave Linyanti 
 
 and embark on the Chobe— Dangerous Hippopotami— Banks of Chobe — 
 Tfroos-^The Course of tho River — Tho Island Mparia at tho Oonfluenco of 
 the Chobe and the Leeambye — Anecdote — Ascend the Loeambyo — Publio 
 Addresses at Sesheke — Attention of tho People — Results — Proceed up the 
 fllvor— The Fruit whinh yields Nux vomica — The Rapids — Hippopotami and 
 their Tonng 1*' 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XrV. 
 
 Increasing Besaty ;f tlo Country — Mode of spending thn Day — The Peopla 
 and tho Palls of Gonyo — A Makololo Foray — A second prevented, and Cap. 
 tive» delivered up — Politeness and Liberality of the People — The Bains — 
 Present of Oxen — Death from a Lion's Bite at Libonta — Continued Kindness 
 — Arrangements for spending the Night during the Journey — Cooking and 
 Washing — Abundance of Animal Life — Alligators — Narrow Escape of one 
 of my Men — Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator — Large Game — 
 Rhoals of Fish — Hippopotami Page ]^4 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captives — Navigation of 
 tho Leeambye — Capabilities of this District — The Loeba — Buffalo-Hunt— 
 Suspicion of the Balonda — Sokelcnke's Present — Message from Manfnko, a 
 Female Chief — Mainbari Traders — A Dream — Sheakdndo and his People — 
 Interview with Nyamo£na, another Female Chief — Court Etiquette — Hair 
 versus Wool — Increase of Superstition — Arrival of Manonko : her Appear- 
 ance ond Husband— Mode of Salutation — Anklets — Embassy, with a Present 
 from Masiko — Roast Beef — Manioc — Magic Lantern — Manenko an Accom- 
 plished Scold: compels us to wait 148 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 Nyamoana's Present — Charms — Manenko's Pedestrian Powers — Rain — Hunger 
 — Dense Forests — Artificial Bee-Hives — Villagers lend the Roofs of their 
 Houses — Divination and Idols — Manenko's Whims — Shinte's Messengers 
 and Present — The Proper Way to approach a Village — A Merman — Enter 
 Shinte's Town: its Appearance — Meet two Half-Caste Slave-Traders — The 
 Makololo scorn them — The Balonda Real Negroes — Grand Reception from 
 Shinto — His Kotla — Ceremony of Introduction — The Orators — Women — 
 Musicians and Musical Instruments — A Disagreeable Request — Private In- 
 terviews with Shinto — Give him an Ox — Manenko's New Hut — Converea- 
 tion with Shinto — Kolimbdta's Proposal — Balonda's Punctiliousness — Selling 
 Children — Kidnapping — Shinte's Ofifor of a Slave — Magic Lantern — Alarm 
 of Women — Delay — Samb&nza returns intoxicated — The Last and Greatest 
 Proof of Shinte's Friendship 162 
 
 CHAPTER XVIL 
 
 Leave Shinte — Manioc-Gardens — Presents of Food — Punctiliousness of tke 
 Balonda — Cazembe — Inquiries for English Cotton Goods — Intemese's Fiction 
 — Loss of Pontoon — Plains covered with Water — A Night on an Island— 
 Goan of the Roofs of Huts — A Halt; — Omnivorous Fish — Natives' Mode «f 
 satching them — The Village of a Half-Brother of Katema : his Speech and 
 Present — Our (juido's Porversliy — Mozcnkwa's Pleasant Homo and Family 
 —A Messenger from Katema^-Qucndonde's Village : his Kindness — Crop 
 of Wool — Meet People from tho Town of Matiamvo — Fireside Talk— Ma- 
 tiamvo's Character and Conduct — Presentation at Katema'a Court : his Pre- 
 sent — Interview on the following Day — Cattle — A Feast and a Makololo 
 Dance — Sagacity of Aut< ISO 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 The Watershed between the Northern and Southern Rivors— A Deep Valley— 
 Rttstio Bridge— Fountains on the Slopes of the Valleys— Village of Kabinje 
 —Demand for Gunpowder and English Calico— The Kasai— Vexatious Trick 
 — Want of Food — No Game — Katende's Unreasonable Demand — A Grave 
 OffencB— Toll-Bridge Keeper— Greedy Guides— Flooded Valleys -Swim the 
 Noana Iiok6 — Prompt Kindness of my Men — Makololo Remarks on the rid 
 Uncultivated Valleys— Difference in the Color of Africans— Reach a Village 
 of the Ohiboque— The Head Man's Impudent Message — Surrounds our En- 
 eampment with his Warriors — The Pretence — Their Demand — Prospect of « 
 Fight — Way in which it was averted — Change our Path — The Ox Sinbad— 
 Insubordination suppressed — Beset by Enemies — A Robber Party — More 
 Troubles — Detained by longa Panza — His Village — Annoyed by BangaU 
 I'raders — My Men discouraged — Their Determination and Precaution PageI99 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Guides Prepaid — Bark Canoes — Deserted by Guides — Native Traders — ^Valley 
 jf the Quango — The Chief Sansawe — His Hostility — Pass him safely — The 
 River Quango — Chief's Mode of dressing his Hair — Opposition — Opportune 
 Aid by Cypriano— His Generous Hospitality — Arrive at Cassango — A flood 
 Supper — Kindness of Captain Neves — Portuguese Curiosity and Questions — 
 Anniversary of the Resurrection — No Prejudice against Color — Country 
 around Cassangc — Sell Sekeletu's Ivory — Makololo's Surprise at the High 
 Price obtained — Proposal to return Home, and Reasons — Soldier-Guide — 
 Tala Mungongo, Village of — Civility of Basongo — Fever — Enter District of 
 Ambaca — Good Fruits of Jesuit Teaching — The Tampan: its Bite — Uni- 
 versal Hospitality of the Portuguese — A Tale of the Mambari — Exhilarating 
 Effects of Highland Scenery — District of Golungo Alto — Fertility — Forests 
 of Gigantic Timber — Native Carpenters — Coffee-Estate — Sterility of Country 
 near the Coast — Fears of the Makololo — Welcome by Mr. Gabriel to 
 Loanda 224 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Continued Sickness — Kindness of the Bishop of Angola and her Majesty's 
 Officers — Mr. Gabriel's Unwearied Hospitality — Serious Deportment of the 
 Makololo — They visit Ships of AVar — Politeness of the Officers and Men — 
 The Makololo attend Mass in the Cathedral — Their Remarks — Find Employ- 
 ment in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal — Their Superior Judgment 
 respecting Goods — Beneficial Influence of the Bishop of Angola — The City 
 of St. Paul de Loanda — The Harbor — Custom-Houso — No English Merchant* 
 
 Sincerity of the Portuguese Government in suppressing the Slave-Trade— 
 
 Convict Soldiers — Presents from Bishop and Merchants for Sekeletu — Outfll 
 
 Leave Loanda 20th September, 1854 — Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as fai 
 
 aa IcoUo 1 Bongo — Women spinning Cotton — Cazongo: its Coffoe-Planta- 
 
 tiona South American Trees— Ruins of Iron-Foundry— Native Miners— 
 
 Coffee-Plantations- Return to Golungo Alto— Solf-Complacency of the Ma- 
 kololo— Fever— Jaundice— Insanity 25] 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 vtoit a Deserted Convent— Favorable Report of Jesuits and their Teaching- 
 Marriages and Fansrals— Litigation— Mr. Canto's Illness— Bad Behavior ol 
 ois Blaret—Ao Entertainment — Ideas on Free Labor — Lou of Amerioai) 
 1» 
 
xii CONTENTS 
 
 Cctton-Sced — Abundance of Cotton in the Country — Sickness of Sektieta's 
 Horse — Eclipse of the Sun — Insects which distill Water — Experiments witt 
 them — Proceed to Ambaca — Present from Mr. Schut, of Loanda — Visit Pungi. 
 Andongo — Its Good Pasturage, Grain, Fruit, Ac. — The Fort and Columnar 
 Rocks — Salubrity of Puugo Andongo — Price of a Slave — A Jlerchant-Prinop 
 —His Hospitality — Hoar of the Loss of my Papers in "Forerunner" — Ntr- 
 rcw Escape from an Alligator — Ancient Burial-Placcs — Neglect of Agricnl- 
 tore in Angola — Manioc the Staple Product-^Its Cheapness — Sickness- 
 Friendly Visit from a Colored Priest — The Prince of Congo — No Priests in 
 the Interior of Angola Page 265 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 toave Pungo Andongo — Extent of Portuguese Power — Meet Traders and Car- 
 riers — Descend the Heights of Tala Mungongo — Cassango Village — Quinine 
 and Cathory — Sickness of Captain Novos''s Infant — Loss of Life from the 
 Ordeal — Wide-Spread Superstitions— The Chieftainship — Reocivo Copies of 
 the "Times" — Trading Pombeiros- Present for Matiamvo — Fover after 
 Westerly Winds — Capabilities of Angola for producing the Raw Materials 
 of English Manufacture — Trading-Parties with Ivory — More Fever — A 
 Hyena's Choice — Makololo Opinion of the Portuguese — Cypriano's Deb^ - 
 A F»neral— Dread of Disembodied Spirits^ Dressing the Quango — Amba- 
 kistas called " The Jews of Angola" — Fashions of tho Bashinje — Approach 
 the Village of Snnsawe — His Idea of Dignity — Tho Pombeiros' Present — 
 Long Detention — A Blow on the Beard — Attacked in a Forest — Sudden 
 Conversion of a Fighting Chief to Peaco-Principles by means of" a Re- 
 volver — No Blood shed in consequence-^-Eate of Travelling — Feeders of the 
 Congo or Zaire — Obliged to refuse Presents — Cross the Loajinsa — Appear- 
 ance of People: Hair-Fashions 280 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Make a D6tour southward — The Chihombo — Cabango — Send a Sketch of the 
 Country to Mr. Gabriel — Tho Chief Bango — Valley of tho Loombwe — Fune- 
 ral Observances — Agreeablo Intercourse with Kawawa — His Impudent De- 
 mand 298 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Level Plains — Vultures — Twenty-Seventh Attack of Fever — Re.ach Eatema'a 
 Town — His Renewed Hospitality — Ford Southern Branch of Lake Dilolo — 
 Hearty Welcome from Shinto — Nyamoana now a Widow — Purchase Canoes 
 and descend tho Lcoba — Despatch a Message to Man en ko— Arrival of her 
 Husband Sambanza — Mambawo Hunters — Charged by a Buffalo — Reception 
 from tho People of Libonta — Explain the Causes of our Long Delay — Pit- 
 sane's Speech — Thanksgiving Services — Appearance of my " Braves" — Won- 
 derful Kindness of the People 303 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Coleny of Birds called Linkololo — The Village of Cbitlane — Murder of Mpo 
 lolo's Daughter — Execution of the Murderer and hia Wife — My Companiom 
 find that their Wives have married other Husbands — Sunday — A Party froa 
 Masiko — Freedom of Speech — Canoe struck by a Hippopotamus — Appear- 
 ance of Trees at the End of Winter — Murky Atmosphere — Surprising Amount 
 of Organic Lifa— The I'ackage.i fo-waroted by Mr. Moffat — Makolulo Suspi- 
 aiii:ir and Lcply to Die M.itobelo who brt^uyhl theoi— -Convey the Goods U 
 m island anol buL'd a Hut .iTor them — Ascertain that Sir li. Miirofai.ion hMi 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 teoognised the True Form of African Continent — Arrival at Lmysnti — A 
 t^rand Picho — Shrewd Inquiry — Sekoletu in his Uniform — A Trading-Partj 
 sent to Lonuda with Ivory — Mr. Gabriel's Kindness to them — Two Makololo 
 Forays during our Absence— The Malcololo desire to be nearer the Market — 
 Opinions upon a Change of Kcsideuoe — Sekeletu's Hospitality — Sokeletu 
 wishes to purchase a Sugar-Mill, 4o. — The Donkeys — Influence among tha 
 Natives — "Pood fit for a Chief" — Parting Words of Mamiio — Motibe'e 
 flxouses Pago Sll 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 i?mrcure from Linyanti — A Thunder-Storm — An Act of Genuine Kindness — 
 . itted out a Second Time by the Makololo — Sail down the Leetmbye — Vic- 
 toria Falls — Native Names — Columns of Vapor — Gigantic Crack — Wear of 
 the Rocks — Second Visit to the Falls — Part with Sekeletu — Night-Tra- 
 velling — Moyara's Village — Savage Customs of the Latoka — A Chain of 
 Trading-Stations— "The Well of Joy"— First Traces of Trade with Euro- 
 peans — Knocking out the Front Teeth — Facetious Explanation — Degrada- 
 tion of the Batoka — Description of the Travelling-Party — Cross the Ungueai 
 ' — Kuins of a Large Town 326 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIL 
 
 Low Hills — A Wounded Buffalo assisted — BuSalo-Bird — Rhinoceros-Bird — 
 The Honoy-Guido — The White Mountain — Sebituano's Old Homo — Hostile 
 Village — Prophetic Frenzy — Friendly Batoka — Clothing despised — Method 
 of Salatation— The Captive released — The Village of Monzo — Aspect of the 
 Country — Visit from the Chief Monzo and his Wife — Central Healthy Loca- 
 tions — Friendly Feelings of the People in reference to a White Resident — 
 Kindness and Remarks of Monze's Sister — Generosity of ihe Inhabitants — 
 Their Anxiety for Medicine — Hooping-Cough 339 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Beautiful Valley — Buffalo — My Young Men kill two Elephants^The Hunt— 
 Semalembue — His Presents-— Joy in prospect of living in Peace — Trade — Hii 
 People's Way of wearing their Hair — Their Mode of Salutation — Old En- 
 campment — Sebituane's former Residence — Ford of Eafue — Prodigiou* 
 Quantities of Large Game — Their Tamencss — Rains — Loss Sickness than in 
 the JournBy to Loanda — Reason — Charge from an Elephant — Vast Amount 
 of Animal Life on the Zambesi — Water of River discolored — An Island with 
 Buffaloes and Men on it — Native Devices for killing Game— Tsetse now in 
 
 Country Agricultural Industry — An Albino murdered by his Mother— 
 
 "Guilty of Tlolo" — Women who make their Mouths "like those of Ducks" 
 
 First Symptom of the Slave-Trade on this Side — Selole's Hostility — An 
 
 Armed Party hoaxed — An Italian Marauder slain — Elephant's Tenacity of 
 Lifo A Word to Young Sportsmen — Mr. Oswell's Adventure with an Ele- 
 phant: Narrow Escape — Mburuma's Village — Suspicious Conduct of his 
 
 People' Guides attempt to detain us — The Village and People of Ma- 
 
 Mburuma— Character our Guides give of us 351 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 (Dfluenoe of Loangwa and Zambesi — Hostile Appearances — Kuins of a 
 Church- -Turmoil of epiric— Cross the River— Friendly Partinir— Th« 8ita»- 
 lioa -ij ''.ni:.i.i/ f^r r..):nms!-i'e--I'lea."ant Gardena— Di. Lsce/da's Visit ic 
 OazBtnb'^t'rtsiTa's S^tatament— Un^ucneasfdl Attempt to establish Traile 
 
I'V CONTENTS. 
 
 frith the People of Cazembe — One of my Men tossed by a Buffalo— Meet t 
 Man with Jacket and Hat on — Hear of the Fortngaese and Native War — 
 Dancing for Corn — Mpende's Hostility — Incantations — A Fight anticipated — 
 Courage and Remarks of my Men — ^Visit from two old Councillors of Mpende 
 — Their Opinion of the English — Mpende concludes not to fight ua — Hij 
 subsequent Friendship — Aids us to cross the River — Desertion of one of my 
 Men — Meet Native Traders with American Calico — Boroma — Freshets — 
 Leave the Kiver — Loquacious Quido — Nyampungo, the Roin-Charmor — An 
 Old Man— No Silver— Gold- Washing— N 9 Cattle Page 372 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 An Elephant-Hant — Offering and Prayers to the Barimo for Success — Nativt 
 Mode of Expression — Working of Game-Laws — A Feast — Laughing Hyenu 
 — Numerous Insects — Curious Notes of Birds of Song — Caterpillars — Butter- 
 flies — Silica — The Fruit Makoronga and Elephants — Rhinoceros-Adventure 
 ^Honey and Bees'- Wax — Superstitious Reverence for the Lion — Slow Tra- 
 velling — Grapes — The Ue — Monfna's Village — Native Names — Suspected of 
 Falsehood — War-Dance — Insanity and Disappearance of Monahin — Fruit- 
 less Search — Monina's Sympathy — The Sand-River Tangwe — The Ordeal 
 Muavi : its Victims — An Unreasonable Man — " Woman's Rights" — Presents 
 — Temperance — A Winding Course to shun Villages — Banyai Complezioa 
 luid Hair — Mushrooms — The Tubers, Mokuri — The Tret Shekabakadzi — 
 Face of the Country — Pot-Holes — Pursued by a Party of Natives — Unplea- 
 sant Threat — Aroused by a Company of Soldiers — A Civilized Breakfast — . 
 Arrival at Tete 3S7 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 Kind Reception from the Commandant — His Generosity to my Men — The Vil- 
 lage of Tete — The Population — Distilled Spirits — The Fort — Cause of the 
 Decadence of Portuguese Power — Former Trade — Slaves employed in Gold- 
 Washing — Slave-Trade drained the Country of Laborers — The Rebel 
 Nyaudo's Stockade — Ho burns Teto — Extensive Field of Sugarcane — The 
 Commandant's Good Reputation among the Natives — Providential Guidance 
 — Seams of Coal — A Hot Spring — Picturesque Country — Wator-Carriage U. 
 the Coal-Fields — ^Workmen's Wages — Exports — Price of Provisions — Visit 
 Gold-Washings — Coal within a Gold-Field — Present from Major Sicard — 
 Natives raise Wheat, Ac. — Liberality of the Commandant — Geographical 
 Information from Sonhor Candido — Earthquakes — Disinterested Kindoesa 
 of the Portuguese 406 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIL 
 
 Leave Tete and proceed down the River — Pass the Stockade of Bonga — War- 
 Drum at Shiramba — Reach Senna — Its Ruinous State — Landeens levy Finei 
 apon the Inhabitants — Cowardice of Native Militia — Boat-Building at Senna 
 — Our Departure — Fover : its Effects — Kindly received into the House of 
 Colonel Nunes at Kilimane — Forethought of Captain NoUoth and Dr. Walsh 
 ~Joy imbittered — Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, Ao. — De- 
 sirableness of Missionary Societies selecting Healthy Stations — Arrange- 
 ments on leaving my Men — Site of Kilimane — Unhealthiness — Arrival of 
 H.M. Brig " Frolic" — ^Anxiety of one of my Men to go to England — Rough 
 Passage in the Boats to the Ship — Sekwebu's Alarm — Sail for Maaritins- 
 Sekwebu on board : he becomes insane : drowns himself — Kindness of Major- 
 General C. M. Hay — Escape Shipwreck — Reach Home _ 420 
 
 BuTOBioAL Skktoe Or DncoTBRT o Africa 4gi 
 
CONTENTS. XT 
 
 CHAPTER XXXiri. 
 
 The time spent in England — Honors conferred on Dr. Livingstone — The next 
 Expedition — Tiie Steamer Pearl — The launch "Ma Robert" — The Zambesi 
 — Firing" Up with Ebony and Lignum Vitte— The Baobab Tree — Tette— 
 Superstitions of the Natives — Gun and other Doctors — Morumbna — A Na- 
 tive Concert — An African Christmas — The African Language — The Flood 
 of the Zambesi — African Fever — The Shire — The "Murohison" Cataraats — 
 The Divine Right of Kings — Crazy Guides Page 434 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 Search forLalce Nyassa — The Chief Tinjane^Elephant Marsh — The Borassui 
 Palm — Discovering Lalce Nyassa — Protected Villages — A Woman Rondo — 
 Cotton Raising and Iron Working — The Pepele, an Evidence of the Force 
 of Fashion — Manganja Beer — The Price of Slaves 442 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 Returning the Malcololo to their Homes — Resemblance of Africans to Ancient 
 Assyrians — The Order of March — Deposits of Coal^ — The Ruins of Zambo — 
 The Honey Bird — The Bacnda-pezi, or "Go-nalceds" — Native African 
 Poets 460 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Victoria Falls — Comparison with Niagara — The View from Gaiden Island — 
 Columns of Vapor — The Upper Zambesi — Meat- Eaters and Grain-Eaters — 
 A Fashionable Lady — •Polygamy — Smoking Bang — The Labor Question— 
 Batoka Manners — The Color of the Africans — The Tsetse — Return to 
 Tette 461 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 Arrival of the " Pioneer" — The Missionaries — Again on the Shire — Freeing a 
 Party of Slaves — On to Lake Nyassa — Its Banks Thickly Settled — A Coke 
 of Flies — Lost for Four Days — The Zambesi Again — Arrival of Mrs. Liv- 
 ingstone—Her Death and Burial — Exploring the Rovuma — Returning to the 
 "Pioneer" ■47* 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIIL 
 
 Vp the Shire Again— Notes on Crocodiles — Varieties of Poisons — Native Su- 
 perstitions The Cataracts of the Shire — A Woman Chief— Return to the 
 
 Coast — Trip to Bombay— Arrival in England 480 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 Starts on a Fresh Voyage — Report of his Death— Doubts of the Accuracy of 
 the Story— Search Expedition— The Herald Expedition — Livingstone Found 
 
 The Meeting— Livingstone's Story of his Travels— The End of Nyassa 
 
 Lake The Head Waters of the Nile — Lake Lincoln — Livingstone and 
 
 Stanley Exploring in Company— Return of the Herald Expedition 492 
 
XVl OONTENTa. 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 Stanley ArriveB at Marseilles — Livingstone's Insensibility to Fear — Living, 
 stone's Letter to the Herald — The Evils of the Slave Trade — Bloated Afrioan 
 Aristocrats — The Beauty of the Women — Their Ornaments — 4)ying 'of a 
 Broken Heart — A Cannibal Nation — Lake Lincoln — A Comparison of Afri- 
 cans with Europeans — Native Marlcets Page 513 
 
 CHAPTER XLI, 
 
 Doubts of the Acoonnts brought by Stanley — Proofs of their Veracity — Grass 
 Ten Feet High — Naturnl Grass Bridges — The Home of the Gorilla — Winter 
 Quarters — Ulcerated Feet — Gorilla Enters — Livingstnnc to Lord Clarendon— 
 The Springs of the Nile — The Mountains of the Moon — The Secret of the 
 Nile — Cannibals — Guns Thought to be Supernaturjil — The Reasons why 
 the 'Expedition Failed— The Further Discoverits Livingstone Hopes to 
 Make 531 
 
 CHAPTBB XLIL 
 
 Livingston'! Death — Return of the Remains to England — Body identified by 
 an Anatomical Examination eleven months after Death — Letter of Sir 
 William Fergusson— The Final Resting Place — Funeral Ceremonies — • 
 Mourners — Inscription 5S6 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 Last Letters of the Great Explorer — Source of the Nile — Mistake of Captain 
 Speke — The Great Water Shed — Cannibalism — Charaoter of Livingston — 
 Summing up' of Results — What he Attempted — What he Accomplished — 
 Honor to Devoted Heroism 592 
 
 HiBTOBiCAi. Sketch of Discoveries is Africa. 603 
 
 The Diauokd Diggirgs at New Rras 613 
 
JOUBNEYS AND. RESEARCHES 
 
 IN 
 
 SOUTH AFRICA. 
 
 INTEODUCTION. 
 
 My own inclination would lead me to say as littlf, aa pos- 
 sible about myself; but several friends, in whose judgment 
 I have confidence, have suggested that, as the reader likes to 
 know something about the author, a short account of his 
 origin and early life would lend additional interest to this 
 book. Such is my excuse for the following egotism ; and, if 
 any apology be necessary for giving a genealogy, I find it in 
 the fact that it is not very long, and contains only one inci- 
 dent of which I have reason to be proud. 
 
 Our great-grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden, fight- 
 ing for the old line of kings ; and our grandfather was a 
 small farmer in Ulva, where my father was born. It is one 
 of thart cluster of the Hebrides thus alluded to by Walter 
 Scott:— 
 
 " And XJlva dark, and Colonsay, 
 And all the group of islets gay 
 That guard famed Staffa round."* 
 
 Our grandfather was intimately acquainted with all the 
 traditionary legends which that great writer has since 
 made use of in the " Tales of a Grandfather " and other 
 works. As a boy I remember listening to him with d& 
 
 * Lord of the Isles, canto iv. 
 
4 THE AUTHOE'S ANCESTORS. 
 
 light, for his memory was stored with a never-ending 
 stock of stories, many of which were wonderfully like 
 those I have since heard while sitting by the African even- 
 ing fii-es. Our grandmother, too, used to sing Gaelic 
 songs, some of which, as she believed, had been composed 
 by captive islanders languishing hopelessly among the 
 Turks. 
 
 Grandfather could give particulars of the lives of his 
 ancestors for six generations of the family before him; 
 and the only point of the tradition I feel proud of is this s 
 One of these poor hardy islanders was renowned in the 
 district for great wisdom and prudence ; and it is related 
 that, when he was on his death-bed, he called all his chil- 
 dren around him and said, " Now, in my lifetime I have 
 searched most carefully through all the traditions I could 
 dnd of our family, and 1 never could discover that there 
 was a dishonest man among our forefathers. If, therefore, 
 any of you or any of your children should take to dis- 
 honest ways, it will not be because it runs in our blood ; 
 it does not belong to you. I leave this precept with you : 
 Be honest." If, therefore, in the following pages I fall 
 into any errors, I hope they will bo dealt with as honcsi 
 mistakes, and not as indicating that I have forgotten our 
 ancient motto. This event took place at a time when the 
 Highlanders, according to Macaulay, were much like the 
 Capo Caffres, and any one, it was said, could escape punish 
 ment for cattle-stealing by presenting a share of the 
 plunder to his chieftain. Our ancestors were Roman Catho- 
 lics: they were made Protestants by the laird coming 
 round with a man having a yellow staff, which would 
 seem to have attracted more attention than his teaching, 
 for the now religion went long afterward, i^erhaps it does 
 so still, by the name of " tlio religion of the yellow stick." 
 
 Finding his farm in Ulva insufficient to support a nume- 
 rous family, my grandfather removed to Blantyre Works, 
 a large cotton-manufactory on the beautiful Clyde, above 
 Glasgow; ard bis sons, havins bad the best education t\u> 
 
EARLY LABORS AND INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 Hebrides afforded, were gladly received as clerks by the 
 proprietors, Monteith and Co. He himself, highly esteemed 
 for his unflinching honesty, was employed in the convey- 
 ance of large sums of money from Glasgow to the works, and 
 in old age was, according to the custom of that company, 
 pensioned off, so as to spend his declining years in ease and 
 comfort. 
 
 Our uncles all entered his majesty's service during the 
 last French war, either as soldiers or sailors; but my father 
 remained at home, and, though too conscientious ever to 
 become rich as a small tea-dealer, by his kindliness ot 
 manner and vrinning ways he made the heart-strings of his 
 children tv^ine around him as firmly as if he had possessed, 
 and could have bestowed upon them, every worldly advan- 
 tage. He reared his children in connection with the Eirk 
 of Scotland, — a religious establishment which has been an 
 incalculable blessing to that country; but he afterward 
 left it, and during the last twenty years of his life held the 
 oface of deacon of an independent church in Hamilton, and 
 deserved my lasting gratitude and homage for presenting 
 me, from my infancy, with a continuously consistent pious 
 example, such as that the ideal of which is so beautifully 
 and truthfully portrayed in Burns's "Cottar's Saturday 
 Night." He died in February, 1856, in peaceful hope of 
 that mercy which we all expect through the death of our 
 Lord and Saviour. I was at the time on my way below 
 Zumbo, expecting no greater pleasure in this country than 
 sitting by our cottage-fire and telling him my travels. I 
 revere his memory. 
 
 The earliest recollection of my mother recalls a picture 
 so often seen among the Scottish poor, — that of the anxioua 
 housewife striving to make both ends meet. At the age 
 of ten I was put into the factory as a " piercer," to aid by 
 my earnings in lessening her anxiety. With a part of my 
 first week's wages I purchased Kuddiman's "Rudiments 
 of Latin," and pursued the study of that language for 
 many years afterward, with unabated ardor, at an evening 
 
B ai:Liaiou8 impreshiors. 
 
 Bchool, which met between the Irours of eight and ten. 
 The dictionary part of my labors was followed up tiU 
 twelve o'clock, or later, if my mother did not interfere by 
 jumping up and snatching the books out of my bands. J 
 had tc be back in the factory by six in the morning, and 
 continue my work, with intervals for breakfast and dinnorj 
 yil eight o'clock at night. I read in this way many of the 
 classical authors, and knew Virgil and Horace bettor at 
 sixteen than I do now. Our schoolmaster — happily still 
 alive — was supported in part by the company; he was 
 attentive and kind, and so moderate in his charges that all 
 who wished for education might have obtained it. Many 
 availed themselves of the privilege; and some of my 
 schoolfellows now rank in positions far above what they 
 appeared ever likely to come to when in the village school. 
 If such a system wore established in England, it would 
 prove a never-ending blessing to the poor. 
 
 In reading, every thing that I could lay my hands on 
 was devoured except novels. Scientific works and books 
 of travels were my especial delight; though my father, 
 believing, with many of his time who ought to have known 
 better, that the former were inimical to religion, would 
 ftave preferred to have seen mo poring over the " Cloud of 
 Witnesses," or Boston's " Fourfold State." Our difference 
 of opinion reached the point of open rebellion on my part, 
 and his last application of the rod was on my refusal to 
 BernseWilbcrforce's " Practical Christianity." This dislike 
 to dry doctrinal reading, and to religious reading of every 
 sort, continued for years afterward ; but having lighted on 
 those admirable works of Dr. Thomas Dick, " The Philoso- 
 phy of Eeligion" and " The Philosophy of a Future State," 
 it was gratifying to find my own ideas, that religion and 
 science are not hostile, but ftiendly to each other, fully 
 proved and enforced. 
 
 Great pains had been taken by my parents to instil the 
 doctrines of Christianity into my min«, and I had no diffl- 
 oulty in understanding the theory of our free salvation by 
 
YOUTHFUL EXCUB8I0N8. T 
 
 the atonemei.t of our Saviourj bnt it was only aboat this 
 time that I really began to feel the necessity and value of 
 a personal application of the provisions of that atonement 
 to my own case. The change was like what may be sup- 
 posed would take place were it possible to cure a case of 
 "color-blindness." The perfect freeness with which the 
 pardon of all our guilt is offered in God's book drew forth 
 feelings of affectionate love to Him who bought us 'With 
 his blood, and a sense of deep obligation to Him for his 
 mercy has influenced, in some small measure, my conduct 
 ever since. But I shall not again refer to the inner spiritual 
 life which L believe then began, nor do I intend to specify 
 with any prominence the evangelistic labors to which the 
 love of Christ has since impelled me. This book will 
 speak, not so much of what has been done, as of what stiD 
 remains to bo performed before the gospel can be said to 
 be preached to all nations. 
 
 In the glow of love which Christianity inspires, I soon 
 resolved to devote my life to the alleviation of human 
 misery. Turning this idea over in my mind, I felt that to 
 be a pioneer of Christianity in China might lead to the 
 material benefit of some portions of that immense empire, 
 and therefore set myself to obtain a medical education, in 
 order to be qualified for that enterprise. 
 
 In recognising the plants pointed out in my first medical 
 book, that extraordinary old work on astrological medicine, 
 Culpeper's "Herbal," I had the guidance of a book on the 
 plants of Lanarkshire, by Patrick. Limited as my time 
 was, I found opportunities to scour the whole country-side, 
 "collecting simples." Deep and anxious were my studie« 
 m the still deeper and more perplexing profundities of 
 astrology, and I believe 1 got as far into that abyss of fan- 
 tasies as my author said he dared to lead me. It seemea 
 perilous ground to tread on farther, for the dark hint seemed 
 to my youthful mind to loom toward "selling soul and body 
 to t*»e devil," as the pnce of tne unfathomable knowledge 
 erf til* stars ihese excursions, often in company witii 
 
 8 
 
8 STUDT DURING WuBRINa-BODHB. 
 
 brothers, one now in Canada, and the other a (ilergymai 
 in the United States, gratified my intense love of nature," 
 and though we generally returned so unmercifully hungry 
 and fatigued that the embryo parson shed tears, yet w« 
 lisooTered, to us, so 'nany now and interesting things, that 
 lie was always as ea^er to join u» next time as he was th« 
 last. 
 
 Qp one of these exploring tours we entered a Kmestone 
 quarry, — long before geology was so popular as it is now. 
 It is impossible to describe the delight and wonder witn 
 which I began to collect the shells found in the carboni- 
 ferous limestone which crops out in High Blantyre and Cam- 
 buslang. A quarry-man, seeing a little boy so engaged, 
 looked with thnt pitying eye which the benevolent assume 
 when viewing the insane. Addressing him with, "How 
 ever did these shells come into these rocks ?" "When God 
 made the rocks, he made the shells in them," was the 
 damping reply. "What a deal of trouble geologists might 
 have saved themselves by adopting the Turk-like philo- 
 sophy of this Scotchman ! 
 
 My reading while at work was carried on by placing the 
 book on a portion of the spinning-jenny, so that I could 
 catch sentence after sentence as I passed at my work : 1 
 thus kept up a pretty constant study, undisturbed by the 
 roar of the machinery. To this part of my education I owe 
 my present power of completely abstracting the mind from 
 surrounding noises, so as to read and write with perfect 
 comfort amid the play of children or near the dancing and 
 tongfc of savages. The toil of cotton-spinning, to whicfa 
 I was promoted in my nineteenth year, was excessively 
 severe on a slim, loose-jointed lad, but it was well paid forj 
 and it enabled me to support myself while attending mo- 
 dical and Greek classes in Glasgow in winter, as also the 
 divinity lectures of Dr. Wardlaw by working with my 
 hands in summer. I never received a farthing of aid from 
 any one, aijd should have accomplished my project of going 
 DO China as a medical missionary, in the course of tiitie, by 
 
THE AUTHOK S NATIVE VILLAGE. (> 
 
 my own efforts, had not some friends advised my joining 
 the London Missionary Society, on account of its perfectly 
 unsectarian character. It "sends neither Episcopacy, nor 
 Presbyterianism, nor Independency, but the gospel of 
 Christ, to the heathen." This exactly agreed with my 
 ideas of wliat a missionary society ought to do ; but it was 
 not without a pang that I offered myself, for it was not 
 quite agreeable to one accustomed to work his own way 
 to become in a measure dependent on others ; and I would 
 not have been much put about though my offer had been 
 rejected. 
 
 Looking back now on that life of toil, I cannot but feel 
 thankful that it formed such a material part of my early 
 education; and, were it possible, I should like to begin life 
 over again in the same lowly style, and to pass through 
 the same hardy training. 
 
 Time and travel have not effaced the feelings of respect 
 I imbibed for the bumble inhabitants of my native village. 
 For morality, honesty, and intelligence, they were, in 
 general, good specimens of the Scottish poor. In a popu- 
 lation of more than two thousand souls, we had, of course, 
 a variety of character. In addition to the common riui 
 of men, there wore some characters of sterling worth and 
 ability, who exerted a most beneficial influence on the chil- 
 dren and youth of the place by imparting gratuitous reli- 
 gious instruction.* Much intelligent interest was felt by the 
 villagers in all public questions, and they furnished a proof 
 that the possession of the means of education did not render 
 them an unsafe portion of the population. They felt kindly 
 
 * The reader will pardon my mentioning the names of two of these 
 most worthy meny-r-Darid Hogg, who addressed me on his death-bed with 
 the words, "Now, lad, make religion the every-day business of your 
 life, nnd not a thing of fits and starts : for if you do not, temptation and 
 ether things will get the better of you ;" and Thomas Burke, an old 
 Forty-Second Peninsula soldier, who has been incessant and never weaiy 
 IB good works for about forty years. I was delighted to find him rtiU 
 alive ■ men like these are an honor to their country and professioD. 
 
10 MEDICAL DIPLOMA. 
 
 toward each other, and much respected those of the neigh 
 boring gentry who, like the late Lord Douglas, placed some 
 confidence in their sense of honor. Through the kindness 
 of that nobleman, the poorest among us could stroll at 
 pleasure over the ancient domains of Bothwell, and other 
 Bpots hallowed by the venerable associations of which our 
 Bchool-books and local traditions made us well aware ; and 
 few of us could view the dear memorials of the past with- 
 out feeling that these carefully-kept monuments were our 
 own. The masses of the working-people of Scotland have 
 read history, and are no revolutionary levellers. , They re- 
 joice in the memories of ""Wallace and Bruce and a' the 
 lave," who are still much revered as the former champions 
 of freedom. And, while foreigners imagine that wo want 
 the spirit only to overturn capitalists and aristocracy, we 
 are content to respect our laws till we can change them, 
 and hate those stupid revolutions which might sweep away 
 time-honored institutions, dear alike to rich and poor. 
 
 Having finished the medical curriculum and presented a 
 thesis on a subject which required the use of the stetho- 
 scope for its diagnosis, 1 unwittingly procured for myself an 
 examination rather more severe and prolonged than usual 
 among examining bodies. The reason was, that between 
 mo and the examiners a slight difference of opinion existed 
 as to whether this instrument could do what was asserted. 
 The wiser plan would have been to have had no opinion of 
 my own. However, I was admitted a Licentiate of Faculty 
 of Physicians and Surgeons. It was with unfeigned delight 
 I became a member of a profession which is pre-eminently 
 devoted to practical benevolence, and which with unwearied 
 energy pursues from age to age its endeavors to lesson 
 ^nman woe. 
 
 But, though now qualified for my original plan, the opiam 
 war was then raging, and it was deemed inexpedient foi 
 mo to proceed to ^'hina. I had fondly hoped to have 
 gained access to that then closed empire by means of th« 
 healing art; bat; there bnng no prospect of an early peace 
 
NO CLAIM TO LITERARY MERIT. 11 
 
 with the Chinese, and as another inviting field was opening 
 out through the labors of Mr. Mofiat, I was induced to 
 turn my thoughts to Africa; and, after a more extended 
 course of theological training in England than I had enjoyed 
 in Glasgow, I embarked for Africa in 1840, and, after a voy- 
 age of three months, reached Cape Town. Spending but a 
 short time there, I started for the interior by going round 
 to Algoa Bay, and soon proceeded inland, and have spent the 
 following sixteen years of my life, namely, from 1840 to 1856, 
 in medical and missionary labors there without cost to the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 As to those literary qualifications which are acquired by 
 habits of writing, and which are so important to an author 
 my African life has not only not been favorable to the 
 growth of such accomplishments, but quite the reverse; 
 it has made composition irksome and laborious. I think 1 
 would rather cross the African continent again than under- 
 take to write another book. It is far easier to travel thaii 
 to write about it. I intended on going to Africa to con- 
 tinno my studies; but as I could not brook the idea of 
 simply entering into other men's labors made ready to my 
 hands, I entailed on myself, in addition to teaching, ma- 
 nual labor in building and other handicraft-work, which 
 made mo generally as much exhausted and unfit for study 
 in the evenings as ever I had been when a cotton-spinner. 
 The want of time for self-improvement was the only sourco 
 of regret that I experienced during my African career. 
 The reader, remembering this, will make allowances for 
 the mere gropings for light of a student who has the canity 
 to think himself " not yet too old to learn." More precis* 
 information on several subjects has necessarily been omitted 
 in a popular work like the present; but I hope to give such 
 details to the scientific reader through somo other channel. 
 
tS THE BAKWAIN OOUNTKT 
 
 OHAPTBE I. 
 
 Utt. LIVINGSTONB A MISSIONARY IN THE BAKWAIN COUNTRY 
 
 TnE general instructions I received from the Directors 
 of the London Missionary Society led rae, as soon as I 
 reached Kuruman or Lattakoo, then, as it is now, theii 
 farthest inland station from the Cape, to turn my attention 
 to the north. "Without waiting longer at Kuruman than 
 was necessary to recruit the oxen, which were pretty well 
 tired by the long journey from Algoa Bay, I proceeded, in 
 company with another missionary, to the Bakuena or 
 Bakwain country, and found Sechele, with his tribe, located 
 at Shokuane. We shortly after retraced our steps to Kuru- 
 man ; but as the objects in view were by no means to be 
 attained by a temporary excursion of this sort, I determined 
 to make a fresh start into the interior as soon as possible. 
 Accordingly, after resting three months at Kuruman, which 
 is a kind of head-station in the country, I returned to a 
 spot about fifteen miles south of Shokuane, called Lepelolo 
 (now Litubaruba.) Here, in order to obtain an accurate 
 knowledge of the language, I cut myself off from all Eu- 
 ropean society for about six months, and gained by this 
 ordeal an insight into the habits, ways of thinking, laws, 
 ond language of that section of the Bechuanas caUed Bak- 
 wains, which has proved of incalculable advantage in my 
 intercourse with them ever since. 
 
 In this second journey to Lepelolo — so called from a 
 cavern of that name — I began preparations for a settle 
 Qient, by making a canal to irrigate gardens, from a stream 
 then flowing copiously, but now quite dry. When these 
 preparations were well advanced, I went northward to 
 visit the Bakaa and Bamangwato, and the Makalaka, living 
 between 22° and 23° south latitude. The Bakaa Mountains 
 had been visited before by a trader, who, with his people, 
 all perished from fever. In going round the northern part 
 
APPEARANCES DECEITFUL. IS 
 
 of these basaltic hills near Letl6che I was only ten days 
 distant from the lower part of the Souga, which passed by 
 the same name as Lake Ngami ; and I might then (in 
 1842) have discovered that lake, had discovery alone been 
 my object. Most part of this journey beyond Shokuane 
 was performed on foot, in consequence of the draught-oxen 
 having become sick. Some of my companions who had 
 recently joined us, and did not know that I understood a 
 little of their speech, were overheard by me discussing my 
 appearance and powers: "He is not strong; he is quite 
 slim, and only appears stout because he puts himself into 
 those bags, (trowsers :) he will soon knock up." This 
 caused my Highland blood to rise, and made me despise the 
 fatigue of keeping them all at the top of their speed for 
 days together, and until I heard them expressing proper 
 opinions of my pedestrian powers. 
 
 Returning to Kuruman, in order to bring my luggage 
 to our proposed settlement, 1 was followed by the news 
 that the tribe of Bakwains, who had shown themselves so 
 friendly toward me, had been driven from Lcpclolo by the 
 Barolongs, so that my prospects for the time of forming, a 
 settlement there were at an end. One of those periodical 
 outbreaks of war, which seem to have occui-red from time 
 immemorial, for the possession of cattle, had burst forth in 
 the land, and had so changed the relations of the tribes to 
 each other that I was obh'ged to set out anew to look foi 
 a suitable locality for a mission-station. 
 
 As some of the Bamangwato people had accompanied me 
 to KuTuman, I was obliged to restore them and their goods 
 to their chief Sekdmi. This made a journey to the residence 
 of that chief again necessary, and, fbr the first time, I per- 
 formed a distance of some hundred miles on ox-back. 
 
 Returning toward Kuruman, I selected the beautiful 
 vaUoy of Mabotsa (lat. 25° 14' south, long. 26° 30' ?) as the 
 silo of a missionary station, and thither I removed in 184a 
 Here an occurrence took place concerning which 1 have 
 frequently been questioned in England, and which, but for 
 
1 4 BAVAQES OF LIONS. 
 
 the importuEities of friends, I meant to have kept in store 
 to tell my children when in my dotage. The Bakatla of • 
 the village Mabotsa were much troubled by lions, which 
 leaped into the cattle-pens by night and destroyed their 
 oows. They even attacked the herds in open day. This 
 was BO unusual an occurrence that the people believed that 
 they were bewitched,— " given," as they said, "into the 
 power of the lions . by a neighboring tribe." They went 
 once to attack the animals; but, being rather a cowardly 
 people compared to Bechuanas in general on such occasions, 
 thoy returned without killing any. 
 
 It is well known that if one of a troop of lions is killed, 
 the others take the hint and leave that part of the country. 
 So, the next time the herds were attacked, I went with the 
 people, in order to encourage them to rid themselves of the 
 annoyance by destroying one of the marauders. Wa found 
 the lions on a small hill about a quarter of a mile in length 
 and covered with trees. A circle of men was formed round 
 it, and they gradually closed up, ascending pretty near to 
 each other. Being down below on the plain with a native 
 schoolmaster, named Mebalwe, a most excellent man, I saw 
 one of the lions sitting on a piece of rock within the now 
 closed circle of men. Mebalwe fired at him before I could, 
 and the ball struck the rock on which the animal was 
 sitting. He bit at the spot struck, as a dog does at a stick 
 or stone thrown at him, then, leaping away, broke through 
 the opening circle and escaped unhurt. The men were 
 afraid to attack him, perhaps on account of their belief in 
 witchcraft. When the circle was reformed, wo saw two 
 other lions in it; but we were afraid to fire, lest wo should 
 Strike the men, and they allowed the beasts to burst through 
 also. If the Bakatla had acted according to the custom 
 of the country, they would have speared the lions in theii 
 attempt to get out. Seeing we could not get them to kill 
 one of the lions, we bent our footsteps toward the village : 
 in going round the end of the hill, however, I saw one of 
 the beasts sitting od a piece of rock as before, but this time 
 
A LION-BNCOUNTER. 13 
 
 he had a little bush in ft-ont. Being about thirty yards off, 
 I took a good aim ia,t his body through the bush, and fired 
 both barrels into it. The men then called out, "He is shotl 
 ho is shot!" Others cried, "He has'been shot by anothet 
 man too ; lot us go to him !" I did not see any one else 
 shoot at him, but I saw the lion's tail erected in anger bo- 
 hind the bush, and, turning to the people, said, " Stop a 
 littlo, till I load again." When in. the act of ramming 
 down the bullets, I heard a shout. Starting, and looking 
 half round, I saw the lion just in the act of springing upon 
 mo. I was upon a little height; ho caught my shoulder as 
 he sprang, and we both came to the ground below together. 
 Growling horribly close to my ear, he shook me as a tcrriei 
 dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor similar to 
 that which seems to be felt by a mouse after the first shako 
 of the cat. It caused a sort of dreaminess, in which there 
 was no sense of pain nor feeling of terror, though quite 
 conscious of all that was happening. It was like what 
 patients partially under the influence of chloroform de- 
 scribe, who see all the operation, but feel not the knifo. 
 This singular condition was not the result of any mental 
 process. The shake annihilated fear, and allowed no sense 
 of horror in looking round at the beast. This peculiar 
 state is probably produced in all animals killed by the car- 
 nivora, and, if so, is a merciful provision by our benevolent 
 Creator for lessening the pain of death. Turning round 
 to relieve myself of the weight, as he had one paw on the 
 back of my head, I saw his eyes directed to Mebalwo, who 
 was trying to shoot him at a distance of ten or fifteen 
 yards. His gun, a flint one, missed fire in both barrels; 
 the lion immediately left me, and, attacking Mebalwo, bit 
 his thigh. Another man, whose life I had saved before, 
 after he had been tossed by a bufi'alo, attempted to spear 
 the lion while he was biting Mebalwe. He left Mebalwe 
 and caught this man by the shoulder, but at that moment 
 the bullets he had receiv^ed took effect, and he fell down 
 dead. The whole was the work of a few moments. an(> 
 
16 SEOHELB 
 
 mast have been his paroxysms of dying rage In order to 
 take out the charm from him, the Bakatla on the foUowiDg 
 day made a huge bonfire over the carcass, which was de- 
 clared to bo that of the largest lion they had ever seen. 
 Besides crunching the bone into splinters, he left clevfin 
 teeth-wounds on the upper part of my arm. 
 
 A wound from this animal's tooth resembles a gun-shot 
 wound ; it is generally followed by a great deal of slougL 
 ing and discharge, and pains arc felt in the part periodically 
 ever afterward. 1 had on a tartan jacket on the occasion, 
 and I believe that it wiped oif all the virus from the teeth 
 that pierced the flesh, for my two companions in this aflray 
 have both suffered from the peculiar pains, while I have 
 escaped with only the inconvenience of a false joint in ray 
 limb. The man whose shoulder was wounded showed rao 
 his wound actually burst forth afresh on the same month 
 of the following year. This curious point deserves the 
 attention of inquirers. 
 
 I attached myself to the tribe called Bakuena or Bak- 
 wains, the chief of which, named Sechele, was then living 
 with his people at a place called Shokuano. I was from 
 the first struck by his intelligence, and by the marked 
 manner in which we both felt drawn to each other. This 
 remarkable man has not only embraced Christianity, but 
 expounds its doctrines to his people. 
 
 Sechele continued to make a consistent profession for 
 about three years; and, perceiving at last some of the 
 diflScultics of his case, and also feeling compassion for the 
 poor women, who wore by far the best of our scholars, I liu i 
 no desire that he should be in any hurry to make a Pill 
 profession by baptism and putting away all his wives b? I 
 one. His principal wife, too, was about the most unlikely 
 subject in the tribe ever to become any thing else than an 
 out-and-out greasy disciple of the old school. She has 
 since become greatly altered, I hear, for the better ; bui 
 again and again have I seen Sechele send her out of church 
 to put her gown on. and away she would go with her lips 
 
BAPTISM or 81!CHM,B H 
 
 Shot out, the very picture of unutterable disguBt ot his 
 new-fangled notions. 
 
 When he at last applied for baptism, I simply asked him 
 how he, having the Bible in his hand, and able to road it, 
 thought he ought to act. He went home, gave each of his 
 superfluous wives new clothing, and all his own goods, 
 which they had been accustomed to keep in their huta 
 for him, and sent them to their parents with an inti- 
 mation that he had no fault to find with them, but that in 
 parting with them he wished to follow the will of God. 
 On the day on which ho and his children were baptized, 
 great numbers came to see the ceremony. Some thought, 
 from a stupid calumny circulated by enemies to ChriS' 
 tianity in the south, that the converts would be made to 
 drink an infusion of "dead men's brains," and wore asto- 
 nished to find that water only was used at baptism. Sociug 
 several of the old men actually in tears during the service, 
 I asked them afterward the cause of their weeping ; they 
 were crying to see their father, as the Scotch remark over 
 a case of suicide, " so far left to himself." They seemed to 
 think that I had thrown the glamour over him, and that 
 ae had become mine. Here commenced an opposition 
 which we had not previously experienced. All the frienda 
 of the divorced wives became the opponents of our re- 
 ligion. The attendance at school and church diminished 
 to very few besides the chief's own family. They all 
 treated us still with respectful kindness but to Sechele 
 himself they said things which, as he often remarked, had 
 they ventured on in former times, would have cost them 
 (heir lives. It was trying, after all wo had done, to see 
 o\a labors so little appreciated ; but we had sown the 
 good seed, and have no doubt but it will yet spring up, 
 ^ough we may not live to see the fruits. 
 
 Leaving this sketch of the chief, I proceed to givo an 
 equally rapid one of our doaiing with his people, the Ba. 
 fcena, or Bakwains. A small piece of land, sufficient for a 
 gardoo, was purchased when wo first went to live with 
 
18 afiliATIONS WITH THE PEOPLB. 
 
 ohem, tiiough that was scarcely necessary in a country 
 where the idea of buyipg land was quite ne^v. It was ex- 
 pected that a request for a suitable spot would have been 
 made, and that we should have proceeded to occupy it as 
 any other member of the tribe would. But we explained 
 to them that we wished to avoid any catise of futare 
 dispute when land had become more valuable ; or when a 
 foolish chief began to reign, and wo had erected large or 
 expensive buildings, he might wish to claim the whole. 
 These reasons were considered satisfactory. About £5 
 worth of goods were given for a piece of land, and an ar- 
 rangement was come to that a similar piece should be 
 allotted to any other missionary, at any other place to 
 which the tribe might remove. The particulars of the 
 sale sounded strangely in the cars of the tribe, but were 
 nevertheless readily agreed to. 
 
 In our relations with this people we were simply 
 strangers, exercising no authority or control whatever. 
 Our influence depended entirely on persuasion ; and, having 
 taught them by kind conversation as well as by public 
 instruction, I expected them to do what their own sense 
 of right and wrong dictated. We never wished them to 
 do right merely because it would be pleasing to us, nor 
 thought ourselves to blame when they did wrong, although 
 we were quite aware of the absurd idea to that effect 
 We saw that our teaching did good to the general mind 
 of the people by bringing new and better motives into 
 play. Five instances are ]»ositively known to me in 
 which, by our influence on public opinion, war was pre- 
 vented ; and where, in individual cases, we failed, the peo- 
 ple did no worse than they did before we came into the 
 country. In general they were slow, like all the African 
 people hereafter to be described, in coming to a deoision 
 on religious subjects; but in questions affecting their 
 worldly affairs they were keenly alive to their own inte- 
 TOfttB. They might be called stupid in matters which had 
 not come within the sphere of their observafeicm, but in 
 

 ^ '»^ \ 
 
 Xw 
 
 I 
 
 '^ 
 
 H ^'-^ 
 
 t i 
 
 
 
 
 t'*-J 
 
 
THB DOPO. 21 
 
 oIImjt things they ebovrod more intolligonco than is to be 
 mot with in our own uneducated peasantry. Thoy are 
 remarkably accurate in their knowledge of cattle, slioop, 
 and goats, knowing exactly the kind of pasturage eniicd 
 to each; and they select with groat judgment the varieties 
 of soil host suited to different kinds of grain. They are 
 also familiar with the habits of wild animals, and in 
 general are well up in the maxims which embody their 
 ideas of political wisdom. 
 
 The place whore we first settled with the Bakwains is 
 called Chonuanc, and it happened to bo visited, during tho 
 first year of our residence there, by one of those droughts 
 which occur from time to time in even the most favored 
 districts of Africa. 
 
 The conduct of the people during this long-continued 
 drought was remarkably good. The women parted with 
 most of their ornaments to purchase com from more for- 
 tunate tribes. The children scoured the country in search 
 of the numerous bulbs and roots which can sustain life, 
 and the men engaged in hunting. Very great numbers of 
 the large game, buffaloes, zebras, giraffes, tsessebes, kamaa 
 or hartebeests, kokongs or gnus, pallahs, rhinoceroses, &c.. 
 congregated at some fountains near Eolobeng, and the trap 
 called "hopo" was constructed, in the lands adjacent, for 
 their destruction. The hopo consists of two hedges in tho 
 form of the letter V, which are very high and thick near 
 the angle. Instead of the hedges being joined there, they 
 aro made to form a lane of about fifty yards in lengtn, at 
 the extremity of which a pit is formed, six or eight feet 
 deep, and about twelve or fifteen in breadth and length. 
 Trunks of trees are laid across the margin of the pit, and 
 more especially over that nearest the lane where the ani- 
 mals are expected to leap in, and over that farthest from 
 tho lane where it is supposed they will attempt to escape 
 tiler they are in. The trees form an overlapping border 
 tu'l render escape almost impossible. Tho whole is care- 
 ftilly de^^ed with short green mshos making the pit like 
 
"2^ THK BOEBH 
 
 a concealen pittkll. As the hedges are frequently abaat a 
 mile loug, »nd about as much apart at their extreniities, a 
 tribe making a circle three or four miles round the country 
 adjacent to the opening, and gi-adually closing up, are 
 almost sure to enclose a large body of game. Driving it up 
 witii shouts to the narrow part of the hopo, men secrotod 
 there throw their javelins into the affrighted herds, and on 
 the animals rush to the opening presented at the con- 
 verging hedges, and into the pit, till that is full of a living 
 mass. Some escape by running over the others, as a 
 Bmithfield market-dog does over the sheep's backs. It is a 
 frightful scene. The men, wild with excitement, spear the 
 lovely animals with mad delight; others of the poor crea- 
 tures, borne down by the weight of their dead and dying 
 companions, every now and then make the whole mass 
 heave in their smothering agonies. 
 
 The Bakwains often killed between sixty and seventy 
 head of large game at the (Efferent hopos in a single week; 
 and as every one, both rich and poor, partook of the prey, 
 the meat counteracted the bad effects of an exclusivuly 
 vegetable diet. 
 
 CHAPTEE II. 
 
 OB. LIVINGSTONE PREPARES TO GO TO LAKE NGAMl. 
 
 Another adverse influence with which the misaioii 
 had to contend was the vicinity of the Boers of the 
 Cashan Mountains, otherwise named " Magaliesberg." 
 These are not to be confounded with the Cape coloniBts, 
 •who sometimes pass by the name. The word Boer simply 
 means "farmer," and is not synonymous with our word 
 boor. Indeed, to the Boers generally the latter term 
 would be quite inappropriate, for they are a sober, indoB- 
 trioos, and most hospitable body of peasantry Those, bo^vh 
 
s. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 >'•;■ ■ ■;■■ // 
 
TailATMiaiT OP NATIVES BY B0EB8. 26 
 
 evor who have fled from English law on various prolcxts, 
 and have b«on joined by English deserters and every other 
 variety of bad character in their distapt localities, are 
 anfortunately of a very different stamp. The great ob- 
 jection many of the Boers had, and still have, to Englieb 
 law, is that it' makes no distinction between black men 
 »nd white. They felt aggrieved by their supposed losses 
 in the emancipation of their Hottentot slaves, and deter 
 mined to erect themselves into a republic, in which they 
 might pursue, without molestation, the "proper treatment 
 of the blacks." It is almost needless to add that the 
 "proper treatment" has always contained in it the essen- 
 tial cloinont of slavery, namely, compulsory unpaid labor. 
 
 One Bocuon of this body, under the late Mr. Hendrick 
 Potgeitor, penetrated the interior as far as the Cashan 
 Mountains, whence a Zulu or Caffro chief, named Mosili- 
 katze, had been expelled by the well-known Caffre Din- 
 gaan j* and a glad welcome was given them by the Bo- 
 chuana tribes, who had just escaped the bard sway of that 
 cruel chieftain. They came with the prestige of white 
 men and deliverers; but the Bechuanas soon found, as 
 they expressed it, "that Mosilikatzo was cruel to his 
 enemies, and kind to those he conquered; but that the 
 Boers destroyed their enemies, and made slaves of their 
 friends." The tribes who still retain the semblance of 
 independence are forced to perform all the labor of the 
 fields, such as manuring the land, weeding, reaping, building, 
 
 * Dinf^n was the brother and sneeessor of Chaka, the most emel and 
 bloodthirsty tyrant that ever disgraced the soil of AfWea. He had formed 
 hjs tribe into a military organixation and raraged all the neighboring 
 tribes ; but his horrible cruelties to his own subjocta led to a revolt, 
 headed by Dingaan and Umslungani, his two elder brothers, who first 
 attacked him with spearti, wounding him in the back. Chaka was en- 
 veloped in a blanket, which he cast off and fled. He was overtaken aad 
 again wounded. Falling at the feet of his pursuers, he besought Ihora in 
 the most abfloet terms to let him live, that he might bo tholr sUve ; but b* 
 van instHotly speared to death. — Am. Ed 
 
K THE BOERS MAKE WAE ON THE BAKWArSfB. 
 
 making dams and canals, and at tbe same time to sappon 
 themselves. I iiave myself been an eye-witness of fioera 
 coming to a village, and, according to their usual custom, 
 demanding twenty or thirty women to weed their gardens, 
 and have seen these women proceed to the scene of unre- 
 quited toil, carrying their own food on their heads, their 
 ahildren on their backs, and instruments of labor on theii 
 shoulders. Nor have the Boers any wish to conceal the 
 meanness of thus employing unpaid labor : on the contrary, 
 every one of them, from Mr. Potgeiter and Mr. G^ert 
 Krieger, the commandants, downward, lauded his own 
 humanity and justice in making such an equitable regula* 
 tion. " We make the people work for us, in conslieration 
 of allowing them to live in our country.'' 
 
 The Boers' determined to put a stop to English traders 
 going past Kolobeng, by dispersing the tribe of Bakwaina 
 and expelling all the missionaries. Sir George Cathcart 
 proclaimed the independence of the Boers, the best thing 
 that could have been done had they been between us and 
 the Caffies. A treaty was entered into with these Boers ; 
 an article for the free passage of Englishmen to the coun- 
 try beyond, and also another, that no slavery should be 
 allowed in the independent territory, were duly inserted, 
 as expressive of the views of her majesty's government at 
 home. " But what abqut the missionaries ?" inquired the 
 Boers. " You may do as you please with them," is said to 
 have been the answer of the " Commissioner." This re- 
 mark, if uttered at all, was probably made in joke : design- 
 ing men, however, circulated it, and caused the general 
 belief in its accuracy which now prevails all over the conn' 
 try, and doubtless led to the destruction of three mission- 
 stations immediately after. The Boers, four hundred in 
 number, were sent by the late Mr. Pretorius to attack the 
 Bakwains in 1852. Boasting that the English had given 
 np all the blacks into their power, and had agreed to aid 
 them in their subjugation by preventing all supplies of 
 ammunition from coming into the Beohuana country, they 
 
HOSTIMTT or THE BOERS. 21 
 
 Msanlted the Bakwains, and, besides killing a considerabla 
 number of adults, carried off two hundred of our school- 
 children into slavery. The natives under Sechele defended 
 themselves till the approach of night enabled thein to flee 
 to the mountains; and having in that defence killed fi 
 number of the enemy, the very first ever slain in this coun- 
 . try by Bechuanas, I received the credit of having taught 
 the tribe to kill Boers ! My house, which had stood per- 
 fectly securn for years under the protection of the natives, 
 was plundered in revenge. English gentlemen, who had 
 come in the footsteps of Mr. Gumming to hunt in tlie coun- 
 try beyond, and had deposited large quantities of stores in 
 the same keeping, and upward of eighty head of cattle as 
 relays for the return journeys, were robbed of all, and, 
 when they came back to Kolobeng, found the skeletons of 
 the guardians strewed all over the place. The books of a 
 good library — my solace in our solitude — were not taken 
 away, but handfuls of the leaves were torn out and scat- 
 tered over the place. My stock of medicines was smashed, 
 and all our furnjture and clothing carried off and sold at 
 public auction to pay the expenses of the foray. 
 
 In trying to benefit the tribes living under the Boors of 
 the Cashan Mountains, I twice performed a journey of about 
 three hundred miles to the eastward of Kolobeng. Sechelo 
 had become so obnoxious to the Boers that, though anxious 
 to accompany me in my journey, he dared not trust him- 
 self among them. This did not arise from the crime oi 
 cattle-stealing ; for that crime, so common among the 
 Cafli'es, was never charged against his tribe, nor, indeed, 
 against any Bechuana tribe. It is, in fact, unknown in the 
 country, except during actual warfare. His independence 
 and love of the English were his only faults. In my last 
 journey there, of about two hundred miles, on parting at 
 the river Marikwe he gave me two servants, " to be," as 
 he said, " his arms to serve me," and expressed regret that 
 he could not come himself. " Suppose we went north," I 
 said, " would you come ?" He then told me the story of 
 
S8 PREPARIKQ TO CBOBB TSS DESISST. 
 
 Sobitnane having saved his life, and expatiated on the &r- 
 fomed generosity of that really groat man. This was the 
 first time I had thought of crossing the Desert to Lake 
 Ngami. 
 
 The conduct of the Boers, who had sent a letter designed 
 to procure my removfll out of the country, and their well- 
 known settled policy which I have already described, be- . 
 came more fully developed on this than on any former 
 occasion. When I spoke to Mr. Hendrick Potgeitcr of the 
 danger of hindering the gospel of Christ among these poor 
 savages, ho became greatly excited, and called one of hia 
 followers to answer mo. He threatened to attack any triba 
 that might receive a native teacher ; yet he promised to use 
 his influence to prevent those under him from throwing 
 obstacles in our way. I could perceive plainly that nothing 
 more could bo done in that direction, so I commenced col- 
 lecting aU the information I could about the desert, with 
 the intention of crossing it, if possible. Sekomi, the chief 
 of the Bamangwato, was acquainted with a route which 
 he kept caroftilly to himself, because the Lake country 
 abounded in ivory, and be drew large quantities thence 
 periodically at but small cost to himself. 
 
 Sochele, who valued highly every thing European, and 
 was always fully alive to his own interest, was naturally 
 anxious to got a share of that inviting field. He was most 
 anxious to visit Sebituane too, partly, perhaps, from a wish 
 (o show off his new acquirements, but chiefly, I believe, 
 from having very exalted ideas of the benefits he would 
 derive from the liberality of that renowned chieftain. 
 
 Sechelo, by my advice, sent men to Sekomi, asking leave 
 for mo to pass along his path, accompanying the request 
 ■with the present of an ox. Sekomi's mother, who possesses 
 great influence over him, refused permission, because she 
 had not boon propitiated This produced a fresh message; 
 and the most honorable man in the Bakwain tribe, next 
 to Sechelo, was sent with an ox for both Sekomi and hia 
 mother Thia, too. was met by refusal. It wa* said, 
 
PBlErARINa TO 0R088 THE DESKRT S8 
 
 " The Matebele, the mortal enemies of the Bejhuanns, arc 
 in the direction of the lake, and, Bhould they kill the wliit» 
 man, we shall incur great blame from all his nation." 
 
 The exact position of the Lake Ngami had, for half a 
 century at least, bocQ correctly pointed out oy the natives, 
 who had visited it when rains were more copious in the 
 Desert than in more recent times, and many attempts had 
 been made to reach it by passing through the Desert in the 
 direction indicated; but it was found impossiblo, oven for 
 Griquas, who, having some Bushmaa blood in them, may 
 be supposed more capable of enduring thirst than Euro- 
 peans. It was clear, then, that our only chance of suc- 
 cess was by going round, instead of through, the Desorjt. 
 The best time for the attempt would have been about the 
 end of the rainy season, in March or April, for then we 
 should have been likely to meet with pools of rain-water, 
 which always dry up during the rainless winter. I com- 
 municated my intention to an African traveller. Colonel 
 Steele, then aide-de-camp to the Marquis of Twccdale at 
 Madras, and he made it known to two other gonllomen, 
 whose friendship we had gained during their African travel, 
 namely, Major Vardon and Mr. Oswell. All of these gentle- 
 men were so enamored with African hunting and African 
 discovery that the two former must have envied the latter 
 his good fortune in being able to leave India lu undertake 
 afresh the pleasures and pains of desert life. I believe Mr. 
 Oswell came from his high position at a very considorabk 
 pncuniary sacrifice, and with no other end in view but to 
 extend the boundaries of geographical knowledge. Before 
 I knew of his coming,,! had arranged that the payment 
 jf the guides furnished by Sechele should be the loan of 
 nay wagon to bring back whatever ivory he might obtain 
 from the chief at the lake. V7hen, at last, Mr. Oswell 
 came, bringing Mr. Murray with him, he undertook to 
 defray the entire expense of the guides, and fully executed 
 his generous intention. 
 
 Sechele himself would have come with us, but, foarin;; 
 
 
80 DIPAETURE TROM KOLOBEMO." 
 
 that the much-talked-of afssault of tha Boers might tak» 
 place during our absence, and blame be attached to me fot 
 taking him away, I dissuaded him against it by saying that 
 he knew Mr. Oswell " would be as determined as himself 
 to get th«)ugh the Desert." 
 
 CHAPTEE IIL 
 
 DB. LTVINOSTONS DISCOVERS LAKE NGAMI. 
 
 Just before the arrival of my companions, a party of the 
 people of the lake came to Koloheng, stating that they 
 were Rent by Lechulatebe, the chief, to ask me to visit 
 that country. They brought such flaming accounts of the 
 quantities of ivory to be found there, (cattle-pens made of 
 dephants' tusks of enormous size, &c.,) that the guides of 
 the Bakwains were quite as eager to succeed in reaching 
 the lake as any one of us could desire. This was fortunate^ 
 as we kr.ew the way the strangers had come was impass- 
 able for wagons. 
 
 Messrs. Oswell and Murray came at the end of May, and 
 we all made a fair start for the unknown region on the 1st 
 of June, 1849. Proceeding northward, and passing through 
 a range of tree-covered hills to Shokuane. formerly the re- 
 sidence of the Bakwains, we soon after eucered on the high 
 road to the Bamangwato, which lies generally in the bea 
 of an ancient river or wady that must formerly have flowed 
 S toS. 
 
 Boatlandma, our next station, is a lovely spot in tb« 
 Crtherwise dry region. The wells from which we nad to 
 lift out the water for our cattle are deep, but thoy were 
 well filled. A few villages of Bakialahari were found neai 
 thora, and great numbers of pallahs, springbucks, Guinea' 
 fowl, and small monkeys. 
 
 Lopepe cara« next. This place afforded another proof 
 

 
 
 
 '5 W 'z-. 
 
MESSAGE FROM SEKOMl 33 
 
 •f the desiccation of the country. The first time I passed 
 it, Lop^pe was a large pool with a stream flowing out of it 
 tc the south; now it was with difficulty we could get onr 
 cattle watered by digging down in the bottom of a well. 
 
 At Mashiie — where we found a never-failing supply (,t 
 pure water in a sandstone rocky hollow — we left the road 
 to the Bamangwato Hilis, and struck away to the north 
 into the Desert. Having watered the cattle at a well called 
 Lobotani, about N . W. of Bamangwato, we next proceeded 
 to a real Kalahari fountain, called Serotli. 
 
 In the evening of our second day at Serotli, a hyena 
 appearing suddenly among the grass, succeeded in raising 
 a panic among our cattle. This false mode of attack is 
 the plan which this cowardly animal always adopts. His 
 courage resembles closely that of a turkey-cock. He will 
 bite if an animal is running away ; but if the animal stand 
 still, so does he. Seventeen of our draught-oxen ran away, 
 and in their flight went right into the hands of Sekomi, 
 whom, from his being unfriendly to our success, we had no 
 particular wish to see. Cattle-stealing, such as in the cir- 
 cumstances might have occurred in CafEraria, is here un- 
 known^ so Sekomi sent back our oxen, and a message 
 strongly dissuading us against attempting the Defeert 
 "Where are you going? You will be killed by the eun 
 and thirst, and then all the white men will blame me for 
 not saving you." This was backed by a private message 
 from his mother. " Why do you pass me? I always nmde 
 the people collect to hear the word that you have got 
 What guilt have I, that yon pass without looking at me T" 
 We replied by assuring the messengers that the white men 
 would attribute our deaths to our own stupidity and "bard- 
 headednesB," (tlogo, e thata,) "as we did not intend to 
 allow our companions and guides to return till they had 
 put us into our graves." We sent a handsome present to 
 Sekomi, and a promise that, if he allowed the Bakalahari 
 to keep the wells open for us, we would repeat the gift o>? 
 our return. 
 
S4 DISCOVERT OF WATER.. 
 
 After exhausting all his eloquence in fruitless attempts 
 to persuade us to return, the under-chief) who headed the 
 party ol Sekomi's messengers, inquired, " Who is taking 
 them?" Looking round, he exclaimed, with a face ex- 
 pressive of the most unfeigned disgust, "It is Eamotobi I" 
 <")nr guide belonged to Sekomi's tribe but had fled to 
 Sechele ; as fugitives in this country are always well re- 
 ceived, and may even afterward visit the tribe from which 
 they had escaped, Eamotobi was in no danger, though doing 
 that which he knew to be directly opposed to the interests 
 of his own chief and tribe. 
 
 For sixty or seventy miles beyond Scrotli, one clump of 
 bushes and trees seemed exactly like another; but, as we 
 walked together this morning, Eamotobi remarked, " Wheu 
 we come to that hollow we shall light upon the highway 
 of Sekomi ; and beyond that again lies the river Mokokoj" 
 which, though we passed along it, 1 could not perceive to 
 be a riv9r-bed at all. 
 
 After breakfast, some of the men, who had gone forward 
 on a little path with some footprints of water-loving 
 animals upon it, returned with the joyful tidings of 
 "metse," water, exhibiting the mud on their knees in con- 
 firmation of the news being true. It does one's heart good 
 to see the thirsty oxen rush into a pool of delicious rain- 
 water, as this was. In they dash until the water is deep 
 enough to be nearly level with their throat, and then they 
 stand drawing slowly in the long, refreshing mouthfula 
 until their formerly collapsed sides distend as if they would 
 buret. So much do they imbibe, that a sudden jerk, when 
 they come out on the bank, makes some of the water run 
 out again from their mouths ; but, as they have been days 
 without food too, they very soon commence to graze, and 
 of grass there is always abundance everywhere. This 
 pool was called Mathuluana ; and thankful we were to have 
 obtained so welcome a supply of water. 
 
 Aller giving the cattle a rest at this spot, we proceeded 
 down thft diy bed of the river Mokoko. 
 
8ALT-PAKS 35 
 
 At Nohokotsa we oamo upon the first of a great nnmbot 
 Df Bait-pans, covered with an efflorescence of lime, probably 
 the nitrate. A thick belt of mopano-trccs (a Bauhinia) 
 hides this salt-pan, which is twenty miles in circa mforenc«, 
 entirely from the view of a person coming from the sonlh> 
 east ; and, at the time the pan burst upon our view, the 
 setting sun was casting a beautiful blue haze over the white 
 incrustations, making the whole look exactly like a lake. 
 Oswell threw his hat up in the air at the sight, and shouted 
 out a huzza which made the poor Bushwoman and the 
 Bak wains think him mad. I was a little behind him, and 
 was as completely deceived by it as hej but, as we had 
 agreed to allow each other to behold the lake at the same 
 • instant, I felt a little chagrined that he bad, unintentionally, 
 got the first glance. We had no idea that the long-lookod- 
 for lake was still more than three hundred miles distant. 
 One reason of our mistake was thaW.ae river Zouga was 
 often spoken of by the same name as the lake, — viz. : Noka 
 ea Batletli, (" Eiver of the Batlotli.") 
 
 On the 4th of July we went forward on horseback toward 
 what we supposed to be the lake, and again and again did 
 we seem to see itj but at last we came to the veritable 
 water of the Zouga, and found it to be a river running to 
 the N.E. A village of Bakurutse lay on the opposite bank: 
 these live among Batletli, a tribe having a click in their 
 language, and who were found by Sebituane to possess )arg« 
 herds of the great horned cattle. They seem allied to the 
 Hottentot family. Mr. Oswell, in trying to cross the river, 
 got his horse bogged in the swampy bank. Two Bakwains 
 and I managed to get over by wftding beside a fishing-weir. 
 The people were friendly, and informed us that this water 
 came out of Ngami. This news gladdened all our hearts, 
 for we now felt certain of reaching our goal. We might, 
 thoy said, be a moon on the way: but we had the river 
 Zouga at our feet, and by following it we should at last 
 reach the broad water. 
 
 Next day, when we were quite disposed to be friendly 
 
Cifi THE ZOUGA.. 
 
 with every one, two of the Bamangwato, who had been 
 sent on before us by Sekomi to drive away all the Bushmen 
 and Bakalahari from our path, so that they should not 
 assist or guide us, came and sat down by our fire. We had 
 seen their footsteps fresh in the way, and they had watohed 
 our slow movements forward, and wondered to see how we, 
 without any Bushmen, found our way to the waters. This 
 was the first time they had seen Eamotobi. " You have 
 reached the river now," said they ; and we, quite disposed 
 to laugh at having won the game, felt no ill-will to any one. 
 They seemed to feel no enmity to us, either; but, after an 
 apparently friendly conversation, proceeded to fulfil to the 
 last the instructions of their chief. Ascending the Zouga 
 in our- front, they circulated the report that our object was 
 to plunder all the tribes living on the river and lake; but 
 when they had got Jw,lf-way up the river, the principal man 
 sickened of fever. Turned back some distance, and died. 
 His death had a good effect, for the villagers connected it 
 with the injury ho was attempting to do us. They ail saw 
 through Sekomi's reasons for wishing us to fail in our at- 
 tempt; and, though they came to us at first armed, kind 
 and fair treatment soon produced perfect confidence. 
 
 When we had gone up the bai.k of this beautiful river 
 about ninety-six miles from the point where we first struck 
 it, and understood that we were still a considerable distance 
 from the Ngami, we left all the oxen and wagons, except 
 Mr. Oswell's, which was the smallest, and one team, at 
 Ngabisane, in the hope that they would be recruited for the 
 home journey, while we made a push for the lake. The 
 Bechuana chief of the Lake region, who had sent men to 
 Hechele, now sent orders to all the people on the river to 
 assist us, and we were received by the Bakoba, whose lan- 
 guage clearly shows that they bear an affinity to the tribes in 
 the ncrth. They call themselves Bayeiye, i.e. men ; but the 
 Bechuanas call them Bakoba, which contains somewhat of 
 the idea of slaves. They have never been known to fight, 
 and, indeed, have a tradition that their forefathers, in theii 
 

DISCO VEBT 07 LAKB NOAHl. 39 
 
 flret essays at war, made their bows of the Palma Christi, 
 and, when these broke, they gave up fighting altogether 
 They have invariably submitted to the rule of every horde 
 which has overrun the countries adjacent to the rivers on 
 which they specially love to dwell. They are thus the 
 Quakers of the body politic in Africa. 
 
 Twelve days after our departure from the wagons at 
 Ngabisane we came to the northeast end of Lake Ngaini; 
 and on the Ist of August, 1849, we went down together to 
 the broad part, and, for the first time, this fine-looking 
 sheet of water was beheld by Europeans. The direction 
 of the lake seemed to be N.N.B. and S.S.W. by compass. 
 The southern portion is said to bend round to the west, and 
 to receive the Teoughe from the north at its northwest 
 extremity. We could detect no horizon where we stood 
 looking S.S.W., nor could we form any idea of the extent 
 of the lake, except from the reports of the inhabitants oi 
 the district; and, as they professed to go round it in three 
 days, allowing twenty-five miles a day would make it 
 seventy-five, or less than seventy geographical miles in cir- 
 cumference. Other guesses have been made since as to its 
 circumference, ranging between seventy and one hundred 
 miles. It is shallow, for I subsequently saw a native punt- 
 ing his canoe over seven or eight miles of the northeast 
 end ; it can never, therefore, be of much value as a com- 
 mercial highway. In fact, during the months preceding 
 the annual supply of water from the north, the lake is so 
 shallow that it is with difficulty cattle can approach the 
 water through the boggy, reedy banks. These are low on 
 all sides, but on the west there is a space devoid of trees, 
 ■howing that the waters have retired thence at no very 
 ancient date. This is another of the proofs of desiccation 
 cet with so abundantly throughout the whole country. A 
 number of dead trees lie on this space, some of them em- 
 bedded in the mud, right in the water. We were informed 
 by the Bayeiye, who live on the lake, that when the annual 
 inundation begin? not only trees of great size, but ant» 
 
40 THE NOAMI. 
 
 lopes, as the springbuck and tsessebe, (Acronotus lunata,) are 
 swept down by its rushing waters ; the trees are gradually 
 driven by the winds to the opposite side, and become em 
 bedded in the mud. 
 
 The water of the lake is perfectly fresh when full, bu' 
 brackish when low ; and that coming down the Tamunak'le 
 me found to be so clear, cold, and soft, the higher we 
 Mcanded, that the idea of melting snow was suggested to 
 our minds. We found this region, with regard to that from 
 which we had come, to be clearly a hollow, the lowest 
 point being Lake Kumadau; the point of the ebullition of 
 water, as shown by one of Newman's barometric thermome- 
 ters, was only between 207 i° and 206°, giving an elevation 
 of not much more than two thousand feet above the level of 
 the sea. We had descended above two thousand feet in 
 coming to it from Kolobeng. It is the southern and lowest 
 part of the great river-system beyond, in which largo tracts 
 of country are inundated annually by tropical rains. 
 
 My chief object in coming to the lake was to visit Sebi- 
 tuane, the great chief of the Makololo, who was reported 
 to live some two hundred miles beyond. We had n6w 
 come to a half-tribe of the Bamangwato, called fiatauana. 
 Their chief was a young man named Lechulat^be. Sebi- 
 ttiane had conquered his father Moremi, and Lechulatebe 
 roeeived part of his education while a captive among the 
 Bayeiye. His uncle, a sensible man, ransomed him, and, 
 having collected a number of families together, abdicated 
 tlie chieftainship in favor of his nephew. As Lechulatebe 
 had just come into power, he imagined that the proper 
 way of showing his abilities was to act directly contrary 
 to every thing that his uncle advised. When we came, the 
 ancle recommended him to treat us handsomely : therefore 
 the hopeful youth presented us with a goat only. It ought 
 to have been an ox. So I proposed to my companions to 
 loose the animal and let him go, as a hint to his master. 
 They, however, did not wish to insult him. I, being more 
 of a native and familiar with their customs, knew thai 
 
THE BAMANOWATO AND TH£IR CHIEF. 41 
 
 this shabby present was an insult to us. We wished to 
 purchase some goats or oxen ; Lechulatebe offered us ele- 
 phants' tusks. "No, we cannot eat these; we want some- 
 thing to fill our stomachs." " Neither can I ; but I hear 
 70U white men are all very fond of these bones; so I oflfei 
 them : I want to put the goats into my own stomach." A 
 trader, who accompanied us, was then purchasing ivory 
 at tne rate of ten good large tusks for a musket worth 
 thirteen shillings. They were called "bones;" and J 
 myself saw eight instances in which the tusks had been 
 left to rot with the other bones where the elephant fell. The 
 Batauana never had a chance of a market before ; bat, in 
 less than two years after our discovery, not a man of them 
 eonld be fbund who was not keenly alive to the great value 
 of the article. 
 
 On the day after our arrival at the lake, I applied to 
 Lechulatebe for guides to Sebituane. As he was much 
 ifraid of that chief, he objected, fearing lest other white 
 men should go thither also, and give Sebituane guns ; 
 whereas, if the traders came to him alone, the possession 
 of fire-arms would give him such a superiority that Sebi- 
 tuane would be afraid of him. It was in vain to explain 
 that I would inculcate peace between them, — ^that Sebi- 
 tuane had been a father to him and Sechele, and was as 
 anxious to see me as he, Lechulatebe, had been. He 
 offered to give me as much ivory as I needed without 
 going to that chief; but, when I refused to take any, ho 
 unwillingly consented to give me guides. Next day, how- 
 ever, when Oswell and I were prepared to start, with th« 
 horses only, we received a senseless refusal; and like Se- 
 iromi, who had thrown obstacles in our way, he sent men 
 M, the Bayeiye with orders to refuse us a passage across 
 the river. Trying hard to form a raft at a narrow part, J 
 vorked many hours in the water; but the dry wood wa* 
 ^> worm-eaten it wonld not bear the weight of a single 
 
 son I was not then aware of the number of alligators 
 «hi<-.b exitft is the Zouga, and nevej- think of my Itbor io 
 
42 rFABT rOS THE OOXTITTBT 07 BSBITUAlfX 
 
 the water without feeling tbankfxil that I escaped theu 
 jawB. The season was now far advanced; and as Mr. O*. 
 well, with his wonted generous feelings, volunteered, on 
 the spot, to go down to the Cape and bring up a boat, we 
 resolved to make our way south again. 
 
 OHAPTBE rV. 
 
 DR. LrVTNOBTONE PERFOBMS TWO JOURNETS IN THE INTERIOB 
 AND DISCOVERS THE RIVER ZAMBESI — HE SENDS HIB 
 FAMILY TO ENGLAND. 
 
 Ha VINO returned to Kolobeng, I remained there till 
 April, 1850, and then left in company with Mrs. Living- 
 stone, our three children, and the chief Sechele, — who had 
 now bought a wagon of his own, — in order to go across the 
 Zouga at its lower end, with the intention of proceeding 
 up the northern bank till we gained the Tamunak'le, and 
 of then ascending that river to visit Sebituane in the north. 
 Sekomi had given orders to fill up the wells which we had 
 dug with much labor at Serotli; so we took the more 
 eastern route through the Bamangwato town and by 
 Letloche. That chief asked why I had avoided him in our 
 former journeys. I replied that my reason was that 1 
 knew he did not wish me to go to the lake, and I did not 
 want to quarrel with him. "Well," he said, "you beat 
 me then, and I am content." 
 
 Parting with Sechele at the ford, as he was eager to 
 visit Lechulatebe, we went along the northern woody 
 bank of the Zouga with great labor, having to cut down 
 very many trees to allow the wagons to pass. Our losses 
 by oxen falling into pitfalls were very heavy. The Ba- 
 yeiye kindly opened the pits when they knew, of our ap- 
 
epiS£6 OBTAINiiD FROM LECETUtiATEBE. 43 
 
 proaoL; bnt, whec that was not the case, we coald blame 
 no one on finding an established custom of the country 
 inimical to our interests. On approaching the confluence 
 of the Tamunak'le we were informed that the fly called 
 tsetse* abounded on its banks. This was a barrier we 
 never expected to meet; and, as it might have brought 
 our wagons to a complete stand-still in a wilderness, 
 where no supplies for the children could be obtained, 
 we were reluctantly compelled to recross the Zouj^a. 
 
 From the Bayeiye wo learned that a party of English- 
 men, who had come to the lake in search of ivoiy, were 
 all laid low by fever; so we travelled hastily down about 
 sixty miles to render what aid was in our power. We 
 were grieved to find, as we came near, that Mr. Alfred 
 Rider, an enterprising young artist who had come to 
 make sketches of this country and of the lake immediately 
 after its discovery, had died of fever before our arrival; 
 but, by the aid of medicines and such comforts as could be 
 made by the only English lady who ever visited the lake, 
 the others happily recovered. 
 
 Sechele used all his powers of eloquence with Lechula- 
 tebe to induce him to furnish guides, that I might bo able 
 to visit Sebituane on ox-back, while Mrs. Livingstone and 
 the children remained at Lake Ngami. He yielded at 
 last. I had a very superior London-made gun, the gift of 
 Lieutenant Arkwright, on which I placed the greatest 
 value, both on account of the donor and the impossibility 
 of my replacing it. Lechulatebe fell violently in love with 
 it, and offered whatever number of elephants' tusks 1 might 
 ask for it. I too was enamored with Sebituane ; and, as he 
 promised in addition that he would furnish Mrs. Living- 
 stone with meat all the time of my absence, his argu- 
 ments made me part with the gun. Though he had no 
 ivory at the time to pay me, I felt the piece would be well 
 
 ♦ Gloasina morsitam, the first Bpeoimens of which were brought to 
 England In 1848 by my friend Major Vardon, from the banks of tb( 
 Limpopo. 
 
44 ME. OSWELL'S HUNTING. 
 
 speni on those terms, and delivered it to him All bei»»g 
 ready for our departure, I took Mrs. Livingstone about six 
 miles fi'om the town, that she might have a peep at the 
 broud part of the lake. Next morning we hud other work 
 to do than part, for our little boy and girl were seized 
 with fever. On the day following, all our servants were 
 down too with the same complaint. As nothing is better 
 in these cases than change of place, I was forced to give 
 up the hope of seeing Sebituane that year; so, leaving my 
 gun as part payment for guides next year, we started for 
 the pure air of the Desert. 
 
 Some mistake had happened in the arrangement with 
 Mr. Oswell, for we met him on the Zouga on our return, 
 and he had devoted the rest of this season to elephant- 
 hunting, at which the natives universally declare he is the 
 greatest adept that ever came into the country. He hunted 
 without dogs. It is remarkable that this lordly animal 
 is so completely harassed by the presence of a few yelp- 
 ing curs as to be quite incapable of attending to man. He 
 makes awkward attempts to crush them by falling on hip 
 knees, and sometimes places his forehead against a tree 
 ton inches in diameter; glancing- on one side of the tree 
 and then on the other, he pushes it down before him, m 
 if he thought thereby to catch his enemies. The only 
 danger the huntsman has to apprehend is the dogs' run- 
 ning toward him, and thereby leading the elephant to 
 their master. Mr. Oswell has been known to kill foui 
 large old male elephants a day. The value of the ivory in 
 ihese cases would be one hundred guineas. We had reason 
 to be proud of his success, for the inhabitants conceived 
 from it a very high idea of English courage, and when 
 they wished to flatter me would say, "If you were not a 
 missionary you would just be like Oswell ; you would not 
 hunt with dogs either." When, in 1852, we came to the 
 Cape, my black coat eleven years out of fashion, and with- 
 out a penny of salary to draw, we found that Mr. Oswell 
 IkAd most generourly ordered an outfit for the half-uakad 
 
NOHOKOTSA. 45 
 
 cbildren, which cost about j£200, and presented it to ua, 
 Baying he thought Mrs. Livingstone had a right to the 
 game of her own preserves. 
 
 Foiled in this second attempt to reach Sebituane, we 
 returned again to Kolobeng, whither we were soon followed 
 by a number of messengers from that chief himself When 
 ho heard of our attempts to visit him, he despatched three 
 detachments of his men with thirteen brown cows to 
 Lechulatebe, thirteen white cows to Sekomi, and thirteen 
 black cows to Sechele, with a request to each to assist the 
 white men to reach him. Their policy, however, was to 
 keep him out of view, and act as his agents in purchasing 
 with his ivory the goods he wanted. This is thoroughly 
 African ; and that continent being without friths and arms 
 of the sea, the tribes in the centre have always been de- 
 barred from European intercourse by its universal preva- 
 lence among all the people around the coasts. 
 
 Before setting out on our third journey to Sebituane, it 
 was necessary to visit Kuruman; and Sechele, eager, for 
 the sake of the commission thereon, to get the ivory of 
 that chief into his own hands, allowed all the messengers 
 to leave before our return. Sekomi, however, was more 
 than usually gracious, and even furnished us with a guide, 
 but no one knew the path beyond Nchokotsa which we 
 intended to follow. When we reached that point, we found 
 that the n ainspring of the gun of another of his men, 
 who was well acquainted with the Bushmen, through whoso 
 country we should pass, had opportunely broken. I never 
 undertook to mend a gun with greater zest than this ; for, 
 under promise of his guidance, w« went to the north in- 
 stead of westward. All the other guides were most libo- 
 rally rewarded by Mr. Oswell. < 
 
 We passed quickly over a hard country, which is porfootly 
 flftt. A little soil lying on calcareous tufa, over a tract ol 
 BOToral hundreds of miles, supports a vegetatior of fino, 
 r- eet short grass, and mopane and baobab trees. 
 
 W^e found a great number of wells in this tufa. A pliwp 
 
4<S THE OUIUE 8H0BO. 
 
 called Miitlomagan-yana, or the "Links," is quite a chain 
 of these never-failing springs. As they occasionally bo- 
 oomo full in seq-sons when no rain falls, and resemble some- 
 what in this respect the rivers we have already mentioned, 
 it is probable they receive some water by percolation from 
 the river-system in the country beyond. Among these 
 links we found many families of Bushmen; and, unlike 
 those on the plains of the Kalahari, who are generally of 
 short stature and hght yellow color, these were tall, strap- 
 ping fellows, of dark complexion. Heat alone does not 
 produce blackness of skin, but heat with moistnre seems 
 to insure the deepest hue. 
 
 One of these Bushmen, named Shobo, consented to be our 
 guide over the waste between these springs and the country 
 of Sebituane. Shobo gave us no hope of water in less than 
 a month. Providentially, however, we came sooner thao 
 we expected to some supplies of rain-water in a chain of 
 pools. It is impossible to convey an idea of the dreary 
 scene on which we entered after leaving this spot : the only 
 vegetation was a low scrub in deep sand; not a bird or in- 
 sect enlivened the landscape. It was, without exception, 
 the most uninviting prospect 1 ever beheld ; and, to make 
 matters worse, our guide Shobo wandered on the second 
 day. We coaxed him on at night, but he went to all points 
 of the compass on the trails of elephants which had been 
 here in the rainy season, and then would sit down in tha 
 path, and in his broken Sichuana say, "l«lo water, all 
 country only; Shobo sleeps; he breaks down; country 
 only," and then coolly curl himself up and go to sleep. 
 The oxen were terribly fatigued and thirsty; and, on th« 
 morning of the fourth day, Shobo, after professing igno- 
 rance of every thing, vanished altogether. "We went on in 
 ihe direction in which we last saw him, and about elevea 
 j' clock began to see birds; then the trail of a rhinoceros 
 A.t this we unyoked the oxen, and they, apparently know 
 mg the sign, rushed along to find the water in the rivm 
 Jiahabo, which oomes from the Tamunak'le, and lay to th« 
 
TH£ BANAJOA 41 
 
 west of ns. The snpply of water in the wagons had been 
 waBtod by one of onr servants, and by the afiornoon only 
 a Bmall portion remained for the children. This was a bit- 
 terly anxious night; and next morning the loiss there waa 
 of water the more thirsty the little rogues became. The 
 Idea of their perishing before our eyes was terrible. It 
 weald almost have been a relief to me to have been re- 
 proached with being the entire cause of the oatastrophe ; 
 but not one Syllable of upbraiding was uttered by their 
 mother, though the tearful eye told the agony wilbia. In 
 the afternoon of the fifth day, to our inexpressible relief, 
 some of the men returned with a supply of that fluid of 
 which we had never before felt the true value. 
 
 The cattle, in rushing along to the water in the Mahab«, 
 probably crossed a small patch of trees containing tsetse, 
 an insect which was shortly to become a perfect pest to us. 
 Shnbo had found his way to the Bayeiye, and appeared; 
 when we came up to the river, at the head of a party; 
 and, as he wished to show his importance before his friends, 
 he walked up boldly and commanded our whole cavalcade 
 to stop, and to bring forth fire and tobacco, while he coolly 
 sat down and smoked his pipe. It was such an inimitably 
 natural way of showing off that we all stopped to admir.o 
 the acting, and, though he had left us previously in the 
 larch, we all liked Shobo, a fine specimen of that wonder- 
 ful people, the Bushmen. 
 
 Next day we came to a village of Banajoa, a tribe which 
 extends far to the eastward They were living on the bor- 
 ders of a marsh in which the Mahabe terminates. They 
 had lost their crop of com, {Holcus sorghum,) and now sub 
 Blsted almost entirely on the root called "tsitla," a kind of 
 aroidcea, which contains a very large quantity of sweet-tasted 
 starch. When dried, pounded into meal, and allowed U» fer- 
 ment, it forms a not unpleasant article of food. Tb e wcimen 
 ihave all the hair off their heads, and seem darker than the 
 Bechnanas. Their huts were built- on poles, and a firo is 
 ■uule beneath by night, in order that the smoke may drivu 
 
 D 
 
<g OPEKATIOR or TSETSE POfSOK 
 
 away the mosquitos, which abound on the Mahabe aoO 
 Tamunak'le more than in any other part of the oointry. 
 The bead-man of this village, Majane, seemed a little want- 
 ing in ability, but had had wit enough to promote a youngei 
 member of the family to the office. This person, the most 
 like the ugly negro of the tobacconists' shops I ever saw, 
 was called Moroa Majane, or son of Majane, and proved an 
 active guide across the river Sonta, and to the banks of 
 the Chobe, in the country of Sebituane. We had come 
 through another tsetse district by night, and at once passed 
 our cattle over to the northern bank to preserve them from 
 its ravages. 
 
 A few remarks on the Tsetse, or Glossina nwrsitans, may 
 here be appropriate. It is not much larger than the com- 
 mon house-fly, and is nearly of the same brown color as 
 the common honey-bee; the after-part of the body has 
 three or four yellow bars across it ; the wings project be- 
 yond this part considerably, and it is remarkably alert, 
 avoiding most dexterously all attempts to catch it with 
 the hand at common temperatures ; in the cool of the morn- 
 ings and evenings it is less Agile. Its peculiar buzz when 
 once heard can never be forgotten by the traveller whose 
 means of locomotion are domestic animals ; for it is well 
 known that the bite of this poisonous insect is certain 
 death to the ox, horse> and dog. In this journey, though 
 we were not aware of any great number having at any 
 time lighted on our cattle, we lost forty-three fine oxen by 
 its bite. We watched the animals carefully, and believe 
 that not a score of flies were ever upon them. 
 
 A most remarkable feature in the bite of the tsetse is itd 
 perfect harmlessness in man and wild animals,- and ever 
 oalvos so long as they continue to suck the cow. We 
 never experienced the slightest injury from them oursolves, 
 personally, although we lived two months in their habitat, 
 which was in this case as sharply defined as in many others, 
 for the south bank of the Chobe was infested by them, and 
 the northern bank, where our cattle were placed, only fiAjy 
 
TH£ TSXTSf POISON. iV 
 
 yards distant, contained not a einglo spocl^on. This was 
 tho more romarkablo as wo ofton saw natives carrying over 
 raw moat to tho opposite bank with many tsetse settled 
 apon it. 
 
 Tho poison does not socm to bo injected by a sting, or by 
 ova placed beneath tho skin ; for, when one is allowed to 
 fbod freely on tho hand, it is seen to insert tho middle prong 
 of throo portions, into which the proboscis divides, some- 
 what deeply into tho trui skin ; it then draws it out a littlo 
 way, and it assumes a en aison color as the mandibles come 
 into brisk operation. Tho previously-shrunken belly swells 
 out, and, if left undisturbed, tho fly quietly departs when it 
 is full. A slight itching irritation follows, but not more 
 than in tho bite of a mosquito. In the ox this same bite 
 produces no more immediate effects than in man. It does 
 not startle him as tho gad-fly does ; but a few days after- 
 ward the following symptoms supervene : the eyo and nose 
 begin to run, the coat stares as if the animal were cold, a 
 swelling appears under the jaw and sometimes at the navel ; 
 and, though the animal continues to graze, emaciation com- 
 mences, accompanied with a peculiar flaccidity of the mus- 
 cles, and this proceeds unchecked until, perhaps months after- 
 ward, purging comes on, and the animal, no longer able to 
 graze, perishes in iL state of extreme exhaustion. Those 
 which are in good condition often perish soon after the bite 
 is inflicted, with staggering and bliudnees, as if the brain 
 were afiected by it. Sudden changes of temperature, pro- 
 duced by falls of rain, seem to hasten tlie progress of the 
 complaint; but, in general, the emaciation goes on uninter- 
 ruptedly for months, and, do what we will, the poor animals 
 perish miserably. 
 
 When o])ened, the cellular tissue on the surface of the 
 dody beneath the skin is seen to be injected with air, as if a 
 quantity of soap-bubbles were scattered over it, or a dis- 
 honest, awkward butcher had been trying to make it, look 
 fat. The fat is of a greenish-yellow color and of an oily 
 consistence. All the muscles are flabby, and the head 
 
60 MEETING WITH 8EBITUANE. 
 
 often BO soft that the fingers may bo made to meet through 
 it. The lungs and liver partake of the disease. The 
 tttomach and bowels are pale and empty, and the gali- 
 bladder is distended with bile. 
 
 The mule, ass, and goat enjoy the same immunity fm 
 the tsetse as man and game. Many largo tribes on the 
 Zambesi can keep no domestic animals except the goat, in 
 consequence of the scourge existing in their country. Our 
 children were frequently bitten, yet suflTored no haim; 
 fcnd we saw around us numbers of zebras, buffaloes, pigs, 
 pallahs and other antelopes, feeding quietly in the very 
 habitat of the tsetse, yet as undisturbed by its bite as 
 oxen are when they first receive the fatal poison. 
 
 The Makololo whom we mot on the Chobo were delighted 
 to see us; and, as their chief Sobituano was about twenty 
 miles down the river, Mr. OsweU and I proceeded in canoes 
 to his temporary residence. He had come from the Barotse 
 town of Naliele down to Sesheke as soon as he heard of 
 white men being in search of him, and now came one hundred 
 miles more to bid us welcome into his country. Ho was 
 apon an island, with all his principal men around him, and 
 engaged in singing when wo arrived. It was more like 
 churoh-music than the sing-song e e e, ib ee se, of the 
 Bechaanas of the south, and they continued the tune for 
 some seconds after we approached. We informed him of the 
 difficulties we had encountered, and how glad we were that 
 they were all at an end by at last reaching his presence. 
 He signified his own joy, and added, " Your cattle are all 
 bitten by the tsetse, and will certainly die ; but never mird, 
 I have oxen, and will give you as many as you need." We, 
 !n our ignorance, then thought that as so few tsotso had 
 bitten them no great mischief would follow. He then pro- 
 geuted us with an ox and a jar of honoy as food, and handed 
 DS over to the care of Mahalo, who had headed the party 
 to Kolobeng, and would now fain appropriate to himself 
 the whole credit of our coming. Prepared skins of oxen, 
 as soft as clofli, were given to cover us through the night i 
 
HIS OHARAOTER. 51 
 
 •nd, as nothing could bo returned to this chief, Mahale be- 
 tiame the owner of them. Long before it was day, Sobitaane 
 caino, and sitting down by the fire, which was lighted for 
 oar benefit behind the hedge whore we lay, ho narrated the 
 difilculties ho had himself experienced, when a young man, 
 in crossing that same dosert which wo had mastered long 
 afterward. 
 
 Ho was much pleased with the proof of confidence we 
 had shown in bringing our children, and promised to take 
 us to see his country, so that we might chooso a part in 
 which to locate ourselves. Our plan was, that I should 
 remain in tho pursuit of my objects as a missionary, 
 while Mr. Oswell explored the Zambesi to the east. Poor 
 Sebituane, however, just after realizing what he had so long 
 ardently desired, foil sick of inflammation of the lungs, 
 which originated in and extended from an old wound got at 
 Molita. I saw his danger, but, being a stranger, 1 feared 
 to treat him medically, lest, in the event of his death, 1 
 should be blamed by his people. I mentioned this to one 
 of his doctors, who said, " Your fear is prudent and wise : 
 this people would blame you." Ho had been cured of this 
 complaint, during the year before, by the Barotso making 
 a large number of free incisions in the chest. The Mako- 
 lolo doctors, on the other hand, now scarcely cut the skin. 
 On the Sunday afternoon in which he died, when our usual 
 reli^ouR service was over, I visited him with my little boy 
 Robert. " Come near," said Sebituane, " and see if I am 
 any longer a man. I am done." He was thus sensible of 
 the dangerous nature of his disease; so I ventured to a» 
 sent, and added a single scntonco regarding hope after 
 death. "Why do you speak of death?" said one of a 
 relay of fresh doctors; "Sebituane will never die." If I 
 had persisted, the impression would have been produced 
 that by speaking about it I wished him to die. After 
 Bitting with him some time, and commending him to the 
 mercy of God, I rose to depart, when tho dying chieftain, 
 rftiBiDg himself up a littlo from his prone position, caUed a 
 
68 DEATH Ot BEBITI7ANE. 
 
 servant, aud said, "Take Eobort to Maunku, [one of hu 
 wives,] and toll her to give him some milk." These were 
 the last words of Sobituane 
 
 We were not informed of his death until the next day. 
 The burial of a Bochuana chief takes place in his cattlo- 
 pon, and all the cattle are driven for an hour or two around 
 and over the grave, so that it may be quite obliterated. 
 Wo wont and spoko to tho people, advising them to keep 
 together and support the hoir. Thoy took this kindly; 
 and in turn told us not to be alarmed, for they would not 
 think of ascribing tho death of their chief to us ; that 
 Sebituano had just gone tho way of his fathers; and, 
 though tho father had gone, he had loft children, and they 
 hoped that wo would be af^ friendly to his children as we 
 intended to have boon to him.sclf. 
 
 He was decidedly tho best specimen of a native chief I 
 ever mot. 1 never felt so much grieved by tho loss of a 
 black man before ; and it was impossible not to follow him 
 in thought into tho world of which he had just heard bo 
 fore ho w^as called away, and co realize somewhat of the 
 feelings of those who pray for tho dead. The deep, dark 
 question of what is to become of such as ho must, how- 
 ever, be loft whore wo find it, believing that, assuredly, 
 the " Judge of all the earth will do right." 
 
 At Sebituane's death the chieftainship devolved, as he::- 
 father intended, on a daughter named Ma-mochisano. He 
 had promised to show us his country and to select a suitable 
 locality for our residence. Wo had now to look to the 
 daughter, who was living twelve days to tho north, at 
 Naliole We wore obliged, therefore, to remain until a 
 message came from her ; and, when it did. she gave as 
 perfect liberty to visit any part of the country we chose. 
 Mr. OswoU and I then proceeded one hundred and thirty 
 miles to the northeast, to Scshckc ; and in tho end of Juno, 
 1851, wo wore rewarded by tho discovery of the Zambesi, in 
 the centre of tho continent. This was a most important 
 point, for that rivor was not previously known to exist 
 
DISCOVEEY OF THE ZAMBESI. 63 
 
 there at all. The Portuguese maps all represent it aa 
 riaing far to the east of where we now were ; and, if even 
 any thing like a chain of trading-stations had existed 
 across the country between the latitudes 12° and 18° south, 
 this magnificent portion of the river must have been 
 known before. Wo saw it at the end of the dry season, at 
 the time when the river is about at its lowest; and yet 
 there was a breadth of from three hundred to six hundred 
 yards of deep, flowing water. Mr. Oswell said he had 
 never seen such a fine river even in India. At the period 
 of its annual inundation it rises fuUy twenty feet in ])eT- 
 pondicular height, and floods ftfLeen or twenty miles of 
 lands adjacent to its banks. 
 
 Occasionally the country between the Chobe and Zam- 
 besi is flooded, and there are largo patches of swamps lying 
 near the Chobe or on its banks. The Makololo were living 
 among these swamps for the sake of the protection the 
 deep reedy rivers afforded them against their enemies. 
 
 Now,' in reference to a suitable locality for a settlement 
 for myself, I could not conscientiously ask them to aban- 
 don their defences for my convenience alone. The health} 
 districts were defenceless, and the safe localities wore so 
 deleterious to human life that the original Basutos had 
 nearly all been cut off by the fever : 1 therefore feared to 
 anbject my family to the scourge. 
 
 As there was no hope of the Boers allowing the peao» 
 able instruction of the natives at Kolobeng, I at once re 
 ■olved to save my family from exposure to this unhealthy 
 region by sending them to England, and to return alone, 
 with a view to exploring the country in search of a 
 healthy district that might prove a centre of civilization 
 and open up the interior by a path to cither the oast or 
 west coast. This resolution led mo down to tlio Capo in 
 April, 1852, being the first time during elovcc vcars that I 
 had visited the scenes of civilization. Our route to Cape 
 Town lod us to pass through the centre of tho colony 
 during the twentieth month of « C.affro war; and if those 
 
64 EETUBN TO TBI! OAP£. 
 
 who periodically pay enormous sums for these inglonou* 
 affairs wish to know how our little unprotected party 
 could quietly travel through the heart of the colony to 
 the capital with as little sense or sign of danger as if we 
 had been in England, they must esgago a "T^mes Special 
 Correspondent" for the next outbreak to explain where 
 the money goes, and who have been benefited by thf 
 blood and treasure expended. 
 
 Having placed my family on board a homeward-bound 
 ship, and promised to rejoin them in two years", wo parted, 
 for, as it subsequently proved, nearly five years. The 
 Directors of the London Missionary Society signified their 
 cordial approval of my project, by leaving the matter 
 entirely to my own discretion ; and I have much pleasure 
 in acknowledging my obligations to the gentlemen com- 
 posing that body for always acting in an enlightened 
 spirit and with as much liberality as their constitution 
 would allow. 
 
 I have the like pleasure in confessing my thankfulness 
 to the Astronomer Eoyal at the Cape, Thomas Maclear, 
 Esq., for enabling me to recall the little astronomica} 
 knowledge which constant manual labor and the eagross- 
 ing nature of missionary duties had effaced from mj 
 memory, and in adding much that I did not know before. 
 The promise he made on parting, that he would examine 
 and correct all my observations, had more effect in making 
 mo persevere in overcoming the difficulties of an unassisted 
 solitary observer than any thing else ; so, whatever credit 
 may be attached to the geographical positions laid down 
 in my route must be attributed to the voluntary aid of 
 tho excellent and laborious astronomer of the Capo Obser- 
 vatory. 
 
 Having given the readur as rapid a sketch as possible 
 of ©vents which attracted notice between 1840 and 1852, 1 
 now proceed to narrate tho incidents of tho last and 
 longest journey of all, performed in l'»52-56 
 
mi LAST AND LONaSST JOITKNET. 
 
 CHAPTEE V. 
 
 DE. LrVINQSTONE 6TAKT8 IN JUNE, 1852, ON THE LAST AMD 
 LONGEST JOURNEY FROM CAPE TOWN. 
 
 Having sent my family homo to England, 1 started in 
 the beginning of Jnne, 1852, on my last journey from 
 Cape Town. This journey extended irom the southern 
 extremity of the continent to St. Paul de Loando, the 
 capital of Angola, on the west coast, and thence across 
 South Central Africa in an oblique direction to Kilimane 
 (Quilimane) in Eastern Africa. I proceeded in the usual 
 conveyance of the country, the heavy lumbering Cape 
 wagon drawn by ten oxen, and was accompanied by two 
 Christian fiechuanas from Kuruman, — than whom I novei 
 saw better servants anywhere, — by two Bakwain men, 
 and two young girls, who, having come as nurses with our 
 children to the Cape, were returning to their home at 
 Kolobeng. Wagon-travelling in Africa has been so often 
 described that I need say no more than that it is a prolonged 
 system of picnicking, excellent for the health, and agreo- 
 able to those who are not over-fastidious about trifles, 
 and who delight in being in the open air. 
 
 Our route to the north lay near the centre of the cone- 
 shaped mass of land which constitutes the promontory of 
 the Cape. 
 
 The slow pace at which we wound onr way through ths 
 colony made almost any subject interesting. The attention 
 is attracted to the names of different places, because they 
 indicate the former existence of buffaloes, elands, and ele- 
 phants, which are now to be found only hundreds of miles 
 beyond. A few blosbucks, {Antilope pygarga,) gnus, blue- 
 backs, (j1. cerulea,) stein bucks, and the ostrich, {Struthw 
 eamelus,') continue, hke the Bushmen, to maintain a pr»- 
 oarioua existence when all the rest are gone. The ei«- 
 
56 ANIMAM or THZ DESKBIT. 
 
 phaat, tho most sagacious, floes tho sound of firo-arma 
 first; tho gnu and ostrich, tho most wary and tho most 
 stupid, last Tho first emigrants found tho Hottentots in 
 poBBCssion of prodigious herds of fine cattle, but no horses, 
 asses, or camels. The original cattle, which may still be 
 »een in some parts of the frontier, must have been brought 
 Bontli from the north-northeast, for from this point the 
 natives universally ascribe their original migration. They 
 brought cattle, sheep, goats, and dogs : why not the horse, 
 the delight of savage hordes ? Horses thrive well in the 
 Cape Colony when imported. Naturalists point out cer- 
 tain mountain-ranges as limiting tho habitat of certain 
 classes of animals ; but there is no Cordillera in Africa to 
 answer that purpose, there being no visible barrier between 
 the northeastern Arabs and the Hottentot tribes to prevent 
 tho different hordes, as they felt their way southward, 
 from indulging their taste for tho possession of this noble 
 animal. 
 
 I am here led to notico an invisible barrier, more insur- 
 mountable than mountain-ranges, but which is not opposed 
 10 tho southern progress of cattle, goats, and sheep. The 
 tsetse would prove a barrier only until its well-defined 
 habitat was known; but the disease passing under the 
 term of horse-sickness {pcripneunumia) exists in such viru- 
 lence over nearly seven degrees of latitude that no precau- 
 tion would be sufficient to save those animals. The horse 
 is so liable to this disease, that only by great care in stabling 
 can he be kept anywhere between 20° and 27° S. during 
 the time between December and April. The winter, begin- 
 ning in the latter month, is the only period in which Eng- 
 lishmen can hunt on horseback, and they are in danger of 
 losing all their studs some months before December. To 
 this disease the horse is especially exposed, and it is almost 
 always fatal One attack, however, seems to secure im- 
 munity from a second. Cattle, too, are subject to it, but 
 only at intervals of a few, sometimes many, years ; but it 
 never nakes a clean sweep of the whole cattle of a vill&ge, 
 
H0RSE-SI0KNES8. 61 
 
 as it would do of a troop of fifty horsea. This barrier^ 
 then, Booma to oxplain the absence of the horse among tho 
 Hottentots, though it is not opposed to the southern migra- 
 tion of cattle, sheep, and goats. 
 
 When the flesh of animals that have died of this disease 
 ia eaten, it causes a malignant carbuncle, which, when it 
 appears over any important organ, proves rapidly fatal. 
 It ia more especiaUy dangerous over the pit of the stomach. 
 Tho effects of the poison have been experienced by mis. 
 sionarios who had eaten properly-cooked food, — iho <io8h 
 of sheep really but not visibly affected by the disease. 
 The virus in tho flesh of tho animal is destroyed neither by 
 boiling nor roasting. This fact, of which we have had inna- 
 merable examples, shows the superiority of experiments on 
 a large scale to those of acute and able physiologists and 
 chemists in the laboratory ; for a well-known physician of 
 Paris, after careful investigation, considered that the virus 
 in such cases was completely neutralized by boiling. 
 
 This disease attacks wild animals too. During our re- 
 sidence at Chonuan, great numbers of tolos, or koodoos, 
 were attracted to the gardens of the Bakwains, abandoned 
 at the usual period of harvest because there was no pros- 
 pect of the corn {Holcus sorghum) bearing that year. The 
 koodoo is remarkably fond of tho green stalks of this kind 
 of millet. Free feeding produced that state of fatness favor- 
 able for the development of this disease, and no fewer than 
 twenty-five died on tho liill opposite our house. Great 
 numbers of gnus and zebras perished from the same cause ; 
 but the mortality produced no sensible diminution in tho 
 numbers of the game, any more than tho deaths of many 
 of the Bakwains who persisted, in spite of eveiy rcmon- 
 •trance, in eating the dead meat, caused any sensible do- 
 crease in the strength of the tribe. 
 
 Before we came to the Orange River, wo saw the last 
 portion of a migration of springbucks, {Qasella euchore, or 
 tsepe.) They came from the groat Kalahari Desert, and, 
 when first seen after crossing the colonial boundary, art 
 
58 THE GSIQU&R. 
 
 Baid often to exceed forty thousand in nuit ber I cannot 
 give an estimate of their numbers, for they appear spread 
 over a vast expanse of country, and make a quivering 
 motion as they feed, and move, and toss their graceful 
 horns. They feed chiefly on grass; and, as they come 
 from the north about the time when the grass most 
 •bounds, it cannot be want of food that prompts ine 
 movement. Nor is it want of water ; for this antelope in 
 one of the most abstemious in that respect. Their nature 
 prompts them to seelc as their favorite haunts level plaini 
 with short grass, whore they may bo able to watch the 
 approach of an enemy. The Bakalahari take advantage 
 of this feeling, and bum off large patches of grass, not only 
 to attract the game by the new crop when it comes up, but 
 also to form bare spots for the springbuck to range over. 
 
 On crossing the Orange Eiver we come into inde- 
 pendent territory inhabited by Griquas and Bechuanas. 
 By Griquas is meant any mixed race sprung from natives 
 and Europeans. Those in question wore of Dutch extrac- 
 tion through association with Hottentot and Bush women 
 Half-castes of the first generation consider themselves 
 superior to those of the second, and all possess in some 
 degree the characteristics of both parents. They were 
 governed for many years by an elected chief, named 
 Waterboer, who, by treaty, received a smaU sum per 
 annum from the colonial government for the support of 
 Bchools in his country, and proved a most efS.oient guard 
 of our northwest boundary. 
 
 Many hundreds of both Griquas and Bechuanas have 
 become Christians and partially civilized through the 
 teaching of English missionaries. My first impression's of 
 the progress made were that the accounts of the effects of 
 the gospel among them had been too highly colored. 1 
 expected a higher degree of Christian simplicity and purity 
 than exists either amor.g them or among ourselves. I was 
 not anxious for a deeper insight in detecting shams than 
 others ; but 1 expected character, such as we imagine the 
 
DRESS OF THE NAllVES. 59 
 
 primitive disciples had, — and was disappointed. When, 
 however, I passed on to the true heathen in the countnes 
 beyond the sphere of missionary influence, and could com- 
 pare the people there with the Christian natives, I came to 
 the conclusion that, if the question wore examined in the 
 laoBt rigidly severe or scientific way, the change effected 
 by the missionary movement would be considered unques- 
 tionably great. 
 
 We cannot fairly compare these poor people with our- 
 selves, who have an atmosphere of Christianity and on 
 lightened public opinion, the growth of centuries, around 
 us, to influence our deportment ; but lot any one from the 
 natural and proper point of view behold the public mo- 
 rality of Griqua Town, Kuruman, Likatlong, and othor 
 villages, and remember what even London was a century 
 ago, and ho must confess that the Christian mode of treat- 
 ing aborigines is incomparably the best. 
 
 The Griquas and Bcchuanas were in former times clad 
 much like the Cafifres, if such a word may bo used where 
 there is scarcely any clothing at all. A bunch of leather 
 strings about eighteen inches long hung from the lady's 
 waist in front, and a prepared skin of a sheep or antelope 
 covered the shoulders, leaving the breast and abdomen 
 bare : the men wore a patch of skin, about the size of the 
 crown of one's hat, which barely served for the pnr])OBeB 
 of decency, and a mantle exactly like that of the women. 
 To assist in protecting the pores of the skin from the in- 
 fluence of the sun by day and of the cold by night, all 
 smeared themselves with a mixture of fat and ochre; the 
 head is anointed with pounded blue mica schist mixed with- 
 &t ; and the fine particles of shining mica, falling on the 
 body and on strings of beads and brass rings, were con- 
 sidered as highly ornamental, and fit for the most fasti- 
 dious dandy. Now these same people come to church in 
 decent though poor clothing, and behave with a decoram 
 certainly superior to what seems to have been iho case in 
 the time of Mr Samuel Pepys in L< ndon Suaday is well 
 
60 ABTIOLXS OT OOHMEBC£. 
 
 observed, and, ovon in localities whore no missionaiy iivoa 
 religious meetings are regularly held, and children and 
 sdults taught to road by the more advanced of their own 
 fellow-countrymen ; and no one is allowed to make a pro- 
 fession of faith by baptism unless ho knows how to road 
 and understands the nature of the Christian religion 
 
 The Bcchuana Mission has been so far successful that, 
 when coming from the interior, wo always felt, on reaching 
 Kuruman, that we had returned to civilized life. But I 
 would not givo any one to understand by this that thoy 
 Are model Christiana, — wo cannot claim to bo model Chris- 
 tians ourselves, — or even in any degree superior to th« 
 members of our country churches. Thoy are more stingy 
 and greedy than the poor at homo ; but in many rospectn 
 the two are exactly alike. On asking an intelligent chief 
 what ho thought of them, he replied, "You white men 
 havo no idea of how wicked wo are ; we know each other 
 bettor than you : somo feign belief to ingratiate thcmselvoa 
 with the missionaries; some profess Christianity because 
 they like the now system, which gives so much mor« 
 importance to the poor, and desire that the old system 
 may pass away; and the rest — a pretty large numbciv- ^ 
 profess because they are really true believers." This 
 testimony may bo considered as very nearly oorrect. 
 
 There is not much prospect of this country ever pro 
 ducing much of the materials of commerce except wool 
 At present the chief articles of trade are karossos or man 
 tlos, — the skins of which they are composed come from tht 
 Desert; next to thom, ivory, the quantity of which cannot 
 now be great, inasmuch as the moans of shooting elephant* 
 is sedulously debarred entrance into the country. A fow 
 ■kins and horns, and some cattle, make up the romaindoi 
 of the exports. English goods, sugar, tea, and coffee an 
 (he articles received in exchange. All the natives of these 
 parts soon become remarkably fond of cofifeo. Tho acme 
 of respectability among tho Bochuanas is tho possession of 
 Mttlo and a wagon. It ia remarkable that, thoagh these 
 
kubuman: its rouNXAni. CI 
 
 latter roquiro frequent repairs, none of the Bocbuanaa have 
 •vor loarnod to mend thorn. Forges and tools have boon 
 at their service, and teachers willing to aid them, but, 
 beyond putting together a camp-stool, no effort has evoi 
 boon made to acquire a knowUdgo of the trades. They 
 observe most carefully a missionary at work until they 
 anderstand whether a tiro is well welded or not, and then 
 pronounce upon its merits with groat emphasis j but there 
 their ambition rests satisfied. It is the same peculiarity 
 among ourselves which loads us in other matters, such as 
 book-making, to attain the oxccUonce of fault-finding 
 without the wit to indite a page. It was in vain I tried 
 to indoctrinate the fiechnanas with the idea that criticism 
 did not imply any superiority over the workman, or even 
 equality with him. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DR. LIVINGSTONE VISITS HIS rATHEE-IN-LAW, MR. MOFFAT, 
 AT KUaUMAN. 
 
 The permanence of the station called Knmman depends 
 entirely on the fine cvor-flowing fountain of that name. 
 It comos from beneath the trap-rock, and, as it usually 
 issues at a temperature of 72° Fahr., it probably comes 
 from the old Silurian schists which formed the bottom of 
 the great primeval valley of the continent. I could not 
 detect any diminution in the flow of this gushing fountain 
 durin" my residence in the country; but when Mr. Moffat 
 first attcrajiti'd a settlement here, thirty-five years ago, he 
 mado a dam mix or seven miles below the present one, and 
 led out the stream for irrigation, where not a drop of the 
 fountain-water ever now flows. Other parts, fourteen miles 
 below the Kuruman gardens, are pointed out as having 
 
6i ATTBMFTB 3:0 OBTAIN WATER. 
 
 contained, within tho memory of peopJe now livin^j, 
 hippopotami, and pools Bafficiont to drown both men and 
 cattle. This failure of water must bo chiefly ascribed to 
 tho general desiccation of the country, but partly also to 
 the amount of irrigation carried on along both banks of 
 the stream at tho mission-station. This latter circum- 
 stance would have more weight were it not coincident 
 with the failure of fountains over a wide extent of 
 oountxy 
 
 Without »t present entering minutely into this feature 
 of tho olitnftte, it may bo remarked that the Kuruman di* 
 trict preseniR svidonco of this dry southern region having 
 at no vorr distant date, been as well watered as the country 
 north of Lake Ngami is now. Ancient river-beds and 
 water-courses abound, and the very eyes of fountains long 
 since dried up may bo soon, in which the flow of centuries 
 has worn these orifices from a slit to an oval form, having 
 on their sides the tufa so abundantly deposited &om these 
 primitive waters; and just ./hero tho splashings, made 
 when the stream fell on tho rock below, may bo supposed 
 to have reached and evaporated, tho same phenomenon 
 appears. Many of these failing fountains no longer flow, 
 because tho brink over which they ran is now too high, or 
 bocause the elevation of tho western side of the country 
 li*ls tho land away from the water-supply below ; but let a 
 cutting be made from a lower level than the brink, and 
 through it to a part below tho surface of the water, and 
 w«<ter flows perennially. Several of these ancient fountains 
 h»ve been resuscitated by tho Bechuanas r^ar Kuruman, 
 who occasionally show their feelings of self-esteem by 
 laboring for months at deep cuttings, which, having once 
 begun, they fool bound in honor to persevere in, though 
 told by a missionary that they can never force water to run 
 up hill. 
 
 During tho period of my visit at Kuruman, Mr. Moffat, 
 who hM been a missionary in Africa during upward of forty 
 years, and is well known bjr his interostinjr work, «ScenM 
 
THE BECHUAKA LANGUAGE. 63 
 
 and Labors in South Africa," was busily engaged in larry- 
 ing through the press, with which his station is furnished, 
 the Bible in the language of the Bechuanas, which is called 
 Sichuana. This has been a work of immense labor ; and aa 
 he was the first to reduce their speech to a written form, 
 and has had his attention directed to the study for at least 
 thirty years, he may be supposed to be better adapted for 
 the task than any man living. Some idea of the copious- 
 noBB of tho language may bo formed from tho fact that 
 even ho never spends a week at his work without discover- 
 ing now words ; the phenomenon, therefore, of any man 
 who, after a few months' or years' study of a native tongue, 
 cackles forth a torrent of vocables, may well bo wondered 
 at, if it is meant to convoy instruction. In my own case, 
 though I have had as much intercourse with tho purest 
 fdiom as most Englishmen, and have studied the language 
 carefully, yet I can never utter an important statement 
 without doing so very slowly, and repeating it too, lest the 
 foreign accent, which is distinctly perceptible in all Euro- 
 peans, should render the sense unintelligible. In this I 
 follow tho example of the Bechnana orators, who, on im- 
 portant matters, always speak slowly, deliberately, and 
 with reiteration. The capabilities of this language may 
 be inferred from the fact that the Pentateuch is fully ex- 
 pressed in Mr. Moffat's translation in fewer words than in 
 the Greek Septuagint, and in a very considerably smaller 
 number than in our own English version. Tho language 
 IB, however, so simple in its construction, thiit its copiono- 
 ness by no means requires the explanation that the poopl* 
 have fallen from a former state of civilization and cultura. 
 Tho fact of the complete translation of the Bible at a 
 BtalioE seven hundred miles inland from tho Capo naturally 
 suggests the question whether it is likely to be permanently 
 nseM, and whether Christianity, as planted by modem 
 ittissions, is likely to retain its vitality without constant 
 supplies of foreign teaching. It would certainly be no 
 cause for congratulation if the Bechuana Bible seeraod a>t 
 
 »• 
 
64 TRANSLATION 01 TDX BIBL£. 
 
 all Ukoly to moot tho fato of Elliot's Choctaw voraion, • 
 B|>ociincn of which may bo soon in the library of one of tht 
 American colleges, — as God's word in a language which n« 
 living tongue can articulate, nor living mortal undorstandj 
 but a belter destiny seems in store for this, for tho Sichuan* 
 language has been introduced into tho new country beyond 
 Lake Ngarai. There it is the court language, and will take 
 a stranger anywhere through a district larger than France 
 Tho Bcchuanas, moreover, in aU probability possess that 
 imperishability which forms so remarkable a feature in Iha 
 outiro African race. 
 
 Protestant missionaries of every denomination in South 
 Africa all agi-ec in one point, that no mere profession of 
 Christianity is sufficient to entitle the converts to tho 
 Christian name. They are all anxious to place tho Bible 
 in the bands of the natives, and, with ability to road that, 
 there can be little doubt as to the future. We believe 
 Christianity to be divine, and equal to all it has to perform; 
 then let the good seed be widely sown, and, no matter to 
 what sect tho converts may belong, the harvest will be 
 glorious. Let nothing that 1 have said be interpreted as 
 indicative of feelings inimical to any body of Christians, 
 for I never, as a missionary, felt myself to be either Pres- 
 byterian, Episcopalian, or Independent, or called upon in 
 any way to love one denomination less than another. My 
 earnest desire is, that those who really have the best in- 
 terests of the heathen at heart should go to them; and 
 assuredly, in Africa at least, self-denying labors among real 
 heathen will not fail to be appreciated. Christians have 
 never yet dealt fairly by the heathen and been disappointed. 
 
 When Sochele understood that we could no longer remain 
 with him at Kolobong, ho sent his children to Mr. Moffat, 
 at Kuruman, for instruction in all the knowledge of the 
 white men. Mr Moifat very liberally received at once an 
 accession of five to his family, with their attendants. 
 
 Having been detained at Kuruman about a fortnight by 
 tihe breaking of a wagon-wheel, 1 was thus providentially 
 
SECBELE'S LETTER. 65 
 
 proventod from being present at the attack of the Boon 
 on the Bakwains, news of which was brought, about the 
 end of that time, by Masebele, the wife of Sechele. She 
 had horsolf been hidden in a cleft of a rock, over which s 
 ■umber of Boors were firing. Her infant began to cry, 
 •nd, terrified lest this snould attract the attention of the 
 men, the muzzles of whoso guns appeared at every discharge 
 over her head, she took off her armlotf as playthings to quiet 
 tUo child. She brought Mr. Mofi'at a letter, which tolls ita 
 own talo. Nearly literally translated it was as follows : — 
 
 "Friend of my heart's love, and of all the confidence of 
 my heart, I am Sechele. I am undone by the Boers, who 
 attacked me, though I had no guilt with them. They de- 
 manded that I should bo in their kingdom, and I refused. 
 They demanded that I should prevent the English and 
 Griquas from passing (northward). 1 replied, Those are 
 my friends, and I can prevent no one (of them). They 
 same on Saturday, and I besought them not to fight on 
 Sunday, and they assented. They began on Monday 
 morning at twilight, and fired with all their might, and 
 burned the town with fire, and scattered us. They killed 
 sixty of my people, and captured women, and children, 
 and men. And the mother of Baleriling (a former wife of 
 Sechele) they also took prisoner. They took all the cattle 
 and all the goods of the Bakwains; and the house of Living- 
 stone they plundered, taking away all his goods. The 
 number of wagons they had was eighty-five, and a cannon; 
 ftnd after they had stolen my own wagon and that of 
 Macabo, then the number of their wagons (counting tho 
 cannon as one) was eighty-eight. All the goods of the 
 hunters (certain English gentlemen hunting and exploring 
 m tho north) were burned in the town; and of the Boerg 
 were killed twenty-eight. Yes, my beloved friend, now 
 my wife goes to see tho children, and Kobus Hao will con> 
 vey her to you. " I am Sechele, 
 
 "The son of Mochoasole." 
 
66 A PANIC. 
 
 This statement is i:i exact accordance with the aoconnt 
 given by the native teacher Mebalwe, and also that sent 
 by some of the Boors themselves to the public colonial 
 papers. The crime of cattle-stealing, of which we hoar lo 
 much near Caffreland, was never alleged against thoM 
 people; and, if a single case had occurred when I was in 
 the country, I must have heard of it, and would at once 
 Bay so. But the only crime imputed in the papers wai 
 that " Sechole was getting too saucy." The demand made 
 for his subjection and service in preventing the English 
 ttadors passing to the north was kept out of view. 
 
 Very soon after Pretorius had sent the marauding-party 
 against Kolobeng, ho was called away to the tribunal of 
 infinite justice. His policy is justified by the Boors gene- 
 rally from the instructions given to the Jewish warriors 
 in Deuteronomy xx. 10-14. Henco, when he died, the 
 obituary notice ended with " Blessed are the dead who die 
 in the Lord." I wish he had not "forbidden us to preach 
 onto the Gentiles that they may be saved." 
 
 The report of this outrage on the Bakwains, conplod 
 with denunciations against myself for having, as it was 
 alleged, taught them to kill Boors, produced such a panio 
 in the country that I could not engage a single servant to 
 accompany me to the north. I have already alluded to 
 their mode of warfare, and in all previous Boerish forays 
 the killing had all been on one side; now, however, that a 
 tribe where an Englishman had lived had begun to shod 
 their blood as well, it was considered the strongest pro- 
 lumptive evidence agaihst me. Loud vows of vengeance 
 were uttered against my head, and threats of instant pur- 
 ■ait by a large party on horseback, should I dare to go into 
 or beyond their country; and as these were coupled with 
 the declaration that the English Government had given 
 over the whole of the native tribes to their rule, and would 
 usist in their entire subjection by preventing fire-arms 
 »nd ammunition from entering the country except for the 
 OBO of the Boors, it was not to be wondered at that I wt* 
 
SEOHXLE'S INTENDED JOUBNET. 67 
 
 detained for months at Kuruman from sheer inability to get 
 wagon-drivers. The English name, from belrg honored 
 and respected all over the countiy, had bectjioie bomewhat 
 more than suspected; and as the policy of depriving thos» 
 friendly tribes of the moans of defence was represented 
 by the Boers as proof positive of the wish of the English 
 that they should be subjugated, the conduct, of a govern- 
 ment which these tribes always thought the paragon 
 of justice and friendship was rendered totally incompre- 
 hensible to them; they could neither defend themselvoa 
 against their enemies, nor shoot the animals in the pro- 
 duce of which we wished them to trade. 
 
 At last I found three servants willing to risk ^ journey 
 to the north; and h man of color named George Fleming, 
 who had generously been assisted by Mr. H. B. Eutherford, 
 a mercantile gentleman of Cape Town, to endeavor to 
 establish a trade with the Makololo, had also managed to 
 get a similar number; we accordingly left Kuruman on th« 
 20th of November, and proceeded on our journey. Our 
 servants were the worst possible specimens of those who 
 imbibe the vices without the virtues of Europeans; but wo 
 had no choice, and were glad to get away on any terms. 
 
 When we reached Motito, forty miles off, we met Secholc 
 on his way, as he said, "to the Queen of England." Two 
 of his own children, and their mother, a former wife, were 
 among the captives seized by the Boers; and, being strongly 
 imbued with the then very prevalent notion of England's 
 justice and generosity, he thought that in consequence of 
 the violated treaty he had a fair case to lay before hei 
 majesty. He employed all his eloquence and powers of 
 persuasion to induce me to accompany him, but I excused 
 myself on the ground that my arrangements were already 
 made for exploring the north. On explaining the diifi. 
 culties of the way, and endeavoring to dissuade him froa 
 the attempt, on account of the knowledge I possessed of 
 the governor's policy, he put the pointed question, "Will 
 tho queen not listen to me, supposing 1 should reach horf" 
 
68 HI8 BETCKN. 
 
 £ replied, "I believe she would listen, but the difficulty ii 
 to get to her." "Well, I shall reach her," expressed hia 
 final determination. Others explained the difficulties more 
 fully, but nothing could shake his resolution. "When he 
 reached Bloemfontein ho found the English army just re- 
 turning from a battle with the Basutos, in which both 
 parties claimed the victory, and both wore glad that a 
 second engagement was not tried. Our officers invited 
 Sechele to dine with them, heard his story, and eolloctod 
 a handsome sum of money to enable him to pursue hia 
 journey to England. The commander refrained from no- 
 ticing him, as a single word in favor of the restoration of 
 the children of Sechele would have been a virtual confes- 
 sion of the failure of his own policy at the very outset. 
 Sechele proceeded as far as the Cape; but, his resourcea 
 being there expended, he was obliged to return to his own 
 country, one thousand miles distant, without accomplishing 
 the obj»ct of his journey. 
 
 On his return he adopted a mode of punishment which 
 he had seen in the colony, namely, making criminals work 
 on the public roads. And he has since, I am informed, 
 made himself the missionary to his own people. He is tall, 
 rather corpulent, and has more of the negro feature than 
 common, but has largo eyes. Ho is very dark, and his peo- 
 ple swear by " Black Sechele." He has great intelligence, 
 reads well, and is a fluent speaker. Great numbers of the 
 tribes formerly living under the Boers have takon refuge 
 under his sway, and he is noiT greater in power than he 
 was before the attack on Kolobong. 
 
 Having parted with Sechele, wo skirted along the Kala- 
 hari Desert, and sometimes within its borders, giving the 
 Boers a wide berth. A larger fall of rain than usual had 
 occurred in 1852, and that was the completion of a cycle 
 of elaven or twelve years, at which the same phenomenon 
 is reported to have happened on three occasions. An un- 
 usually largo crop of melons had appeared in consequence 
 We had the'pleasure of meeting with Mr. J. Macabo return- 
 
BAOBED OAYE. O 
 
 ing from Lake Ngami, which he had succeeded in reaching 
 by going right across the Desert from a point a little to the 
 Bouth of Kolobeng. The accounts of the abundance of 
 water-melons were amply confirmed by this enorgetio 
 traveller; for, having those in vast quantities, his cattle sub- 
 sisted on the fluid contained in them for a period of no lesa 
 than twenty-one days; and when at last they reached a 
 supply of water they did not seem to care much about it. 
 Coming to the lake from the southeast, he crossed the 
 Teoughe, and went round the northern part of it, and is 
 the only European traveller who had actually seon it all. 
 His estimate of the extent of the lake is higher than that 
 given by Mr. Oswell and myself, or from about ninety to 
 one hundred miles in circumference. 
 
 On the 31st of December, 1852, we reached the town of 
 Sechele, called, from the part of the range on which it is 
 situated, Litubaruba. Near the village there exists a cave 
 named Lepelole; it is an interesting evidence of the former 
 existence of a gushing fountain. No one dared to enter the 
 Lohaheng, or cave, for it was the common belief that it was 
 the habitation of the Deity. As we never ha*^ a holiday 
 from Jan' ^ry to December, and our Sunday? were the pe- 
 riods oi our greatest exertions in teaching, I projected an 
 excursion into the cave on a weekday to see the god of the 
 Bakwair.d. The old men said that every one who went in 
 remained there forever, adding, " If the teacher is so mad 
 as to kill himself, let him do so alone : wo shall not be to 
 blame." The declaration of Sechele, that he would follow 
 where 1 led, produced the greatest consternation. It ia 
 eariouB that in all their pretended dreams or visions of their 
 god he has always a crooked leg, like the Egyptian Thau. 
 Supposing that those who wore reported to have perished 
 in this cave had fallen over some precipice, we wont weU 
 provided with lights, ladder, hncs, &c. ; but it turned out to 
 bo only an open cave, with an entrance about ten feet square, 
 which contracts into two water-worn branches, ending in 
 round orifices through which the water once flowed. Tb« 
 
70 RETALIATION ON BOERS. 
 
 only inhaliitants it seems ever to have had were baboono. 
 I loft at the end of the upper branch one of Father MatheVi 
 leaden teetotal tickets. 
 
 I never saw the Bakwains looking so haggard and lean 
 Ks at this time. Most of their cattle bad been swept away 
 by the Boors, together with about eighty fine draught-oxen; 
 and much provision left with them by two officers, Cap- 
 tains Codrington and Webb, to servo for their return jour- 
 ney south, had been carried off also. On their return these 
 officers found the skeletons of the Bakwains whore they 
 expected to find their own goods. All the corn, clothing, 
 and furniture of the people, too, had been consumed in the 
 flames which the Boers had forced the subject tribes to 
 apply to the town during the fight, so that its inhabitants 
 wore now literally starving. 
 
 Sechele had given orders to his people not to commit any 
 act of revenge pending his visit to the Queen of England; 
 but some of the young mon ventured to go to meet a party 
 of Boers returning from hunting, and, as the Boers becam« 
 terrified und ran off, they brought their wagons to Lituba- 
 ruba. Thit seems to have given the main I -"dy of Boers 
 an idea that 'he Bakwains meant to begin a gu n-illa war 
 upon them. This "Caffre war" was, however, only in 
 embryo, and not near that stage of development in which 
 the natives have found out that the hide-and-seek oystem is 
 the most successful. 
 
 The Boers, in alarm, sent four of their number to ask for 
 poaco ! I, being present, heard the condition : — " Sechele'i 
 children must be restored to him." I never saw mon so 
 oompletely and unconsciously in a trap as these four Boers 
 were. Strong parties of armed Bakwains occupied every 
 pass in the hills and gorges around; and had they not pro- 
 mised much more vhan they intended, or did perform, that 
 day would have been their ^ast. The commandant Schols 
 had appropriated the children of Sechele to be his own 
 domestic slaves. I was present when one little boy, Ehari, 
 son of Sechele, was returned to his mother ; the child had 
 
LOVE OF CHILDREN. 71 
 
 been allowed to roll into tho firo, and tlioro were three larga 
 aubound open sores upon dififeront parts of his body. His 
 mother and tho women received him with a flood of silent 
 tears. 
 
 Slavery is said to be mild and tender-hearted in soma 
 plaoas. The Boers assert that they are the best of masters, 
 and that, if the English had possessed the Hottentot slavee, 
 they would have received much worse treatment than they 
 did : what that would have been it is difficult to imaginou 
 I took down the names of some scores of boys and girls, 
 many of whom I knew as our scholars; but I could not 
 comfort the weeping mothers by any hope of their ever 
 returning from slavery. 
 
 The Bechuanas are universally much attached to children. 
 A little child toddling near a party of men while they are 
 eating is. sure to get a handful of the food. This love of 
 children may arise in a great measure from tho patriarcha. 
 system under which they dwell. Every little stranger 
 forms an increase of property to the whole community, 
 and is duly reported to the chief, — boys being more wel- 
 come than girls. The parents take tho name of the child, 
 and often address their children as Ma, (mother,) or Ea, 
 (father.) Our eldest boy being named Eobert, Mrs. Living- 
 stone was, after his birth, always addressed as Ma-Bobert, 
 instead of Mary, her Christian name. 
 
 CnAPTER VII. 
 
 UyiNaSTONK LEAVES TUB COUNTRY OF THE BAKWAINS. 
 
 HAViNa remained five days with tho wretched Bakwains, 
 Moing tho effects of war, of which only a very inadoquat* 
 idea can over bo formed by those who have not been eye- 
 witnesses of its miseries, we prepared to depart on th« 
 15th of January, 1853. Several dogs, in better condition 
 by fkr than any of the people, had taken up their residence 
 
 7 
 
73 DBPARTURE TEOM BAKWAOI OOUNTBT 
 
 at the water. No one would own them ; there they hat 
 
 remained, and, coming on the trail of the people, long aflei 
 
 their departure from the scene o*" conflict, it was plain 
 
 they had 
 
 " Held o'er the dead thei» camlTaL" 
 
 Hence the disgust with which they wore vie:jJ5Bd. 
 
 On our way from Khopong, along the ancient river-bet: 
 which forms the pathway to Boatlanama, I found a species 
 of cactus, being the third I had seen in the country, namely, 
 (me in the colony with a bright red flower, one at Lake 
 Ngami, the flower of which was liver-colored, and the 
 present one, flower unknown. That the plant is uncommon 
 may be inferred from the fact that the Bakwains find so 
 much difficulty in recognising the plant again after having 
 (Wce seen it, that they believe it has the power of changing 
 its locality. 
 
 On the 2lst of January we reached the wells of Boat- 
 lanama, and found them for the first time empty. Lopope, 
 which I had formerly seen a stream running from a large 
 reedy pool, was also dry. The hot salt spring of Serinane, 
 east of Lopcpo, being undrinkable, we pushed on to Mashtie 
 fbi its delicious waters. In travelling through this country, 
 the olfactory nerves are frequently excited by a stronp dia- 
 ftgreeable odor. This is caused by a large jet-bis x ant 
 named " Leshonya." It is nearly an inch in lengxn, and 
 emits a pungent smell when alarmed, in the same mannei 
 as the skunk. The scent must be as volatile as ether, for, 
 on irritating the insect with a stick six feet long, the odor i» 
 instantly perceptible. 
 
 That the fear of man often remains excessively strong in 
 the camivora is proved from well-authenticated cases in 
 which the lioness, in the vicinity of towns where the large 
 game had been unexpectedly driven away by firo-arma, 
 has been known to assuage the paroxysms of hunger by 
 dovonring her own young. It must be added that, though 
 the ofllavium which is loft by the footsteps of man is in 
 general euffident to induce lions to avoid a village, then 
 
TBX LION. 73 
 
 are exceptions: so maBy camo aboat oar half-deserted 
 houses at Chonuano while we were in the act of removing 
 to Kolobeng, that the natives who remained with Mra 
 Livingstone were terrified to stir out of doors in the even- 
 ing. Bitches, also, have boon known to be guilty of the 
 bomdly unnatural act of eating their own young, probably 
 from the great desire fbr animal food, which is experienced 
 by the inhabitants as well. 
 
 When a lion is met in the daytime, a circumstance by no 
 means unfrequent to travellers in these parts, if precon- 
 ceived notions do not lead thorn to expect something very 
 "noble" or "majestic," they will see merely an animal 
 somewhat larger than the biggest dog they ever saw, and 
 partaking very strongly of the canine features : the face is 
 not much like the usual drawings of a lion, the nose being 
 prolonged like a dog's ; not exactly such as our paintors 
 make it, — ^though they might learn better at the Zoologicai 
 Gardens, — their ideas of majesty being usually shown by 
 making their lions' faces like old women in nightcaps. 
 When encountered in the daytime, the lion stands a second 
 or two, gazing, then turns slowly round, and walks as 
 slowly away for a dozen paces, looking over his shoulder, 
 then begins to trot, and, when he thinks himself out of 
 sight, bounds off like a greyhound. By day there is not, 
 as a rule, the smallest danger of lions which are not 
 molested attacking man, nor oven on a clear moonlight 
 night, except when they possess the breeding aro/);'^, (natural 
 affection :) this makes them brave almost any danger; and 
 if a man hafppens to cross to the windward of them, both 
 lion and lioness will rush at him, in the manner of a bitch 
 with whelps. This does not often happen, as I only became 
 aware of twc or three instances of it. In one case a man, 
 passing where the wind blow from him to the animals, wai 
 bitten before he could climb a tree; and occasionally a man 
 on horseback has been caught by the leg under the same 
 oircnmstances. So general, however, is the sense of security 
 on moonlight nights, that we seldom tied up our oxen, Ind 
 
74 HABITS OP THE LION. 
 
 lot them lie looso by tho wagons j while on a dark, rainy 
 night, if a lion is in the neighborhood, he is almost sure to 
 Tonturo to kill an ox. His approach is always stealthy, 
 except when wounded; and any appearance of a trap ii 
 enough to cause him to refrain from making the last spring. 
 This eeems characteristic of the feline species: when a 
 goat IS picketed in India for the purpose of enabling the 
 huntsmen to shoot a tiger by night, if on a plain, ho would 
 whip off the animal so quickly by a stroke of the paw that 
 no one could take aim; to obviate this, a small pit is dug, 
 and the goat is picketed to a stake in the bottom ; a small 
 stone is tied in the car of the goat, which makes him cry 
 the whole night. TVhen the tiger sees the appearance of 
 a trap, ho walks round and round the pit, and allows the 
 hunter, who is lying in wait, to have a fair shot. 
 
 When a lion is very hungry, and lying in wait, the sight 
 of an animal may make him commence stalking it. In one 
 case a man, while stealthily crawling toward a rhinoceros, 
 happened to glance behind him, and found to his horror a 
 lion stalking him; ke only escaped by springing up a tree 
 like a cat. At Lopepe a lioness sprang on the after-qnarter 
 of Mr. Oswell's horse, and when we came up to him we 
 found the marks of the claws on the horse, and a scratch 
 on Mr. O.'s hand. The horse, on feeling the lion on him, 
 sprang away, and the rider, caught by a wait-a-bit thorn, 
 was brought to the ground and rendered insensible. His 
 dogs saved him. Another English gentleman (Captain 
 Codrington) was surprised in tke same way, though not 
 hunting tbo lion at the time, but turning round ho shot him 
 dead in tne nock. By accident a horse belonging to Cod- 
 rington ran away, but was stopped by the bridle catching 
 A stump ; there ho remained a prisoner two days, and when 
 found the whole space around was marked by the footprints 
 of lions. They had evidently been afraid to attack the 
 haltered horse, from fear that it was a trap. Two lions 
 oamo up by night to within three yards of oxen tied to a 
 wagon, and a sheep tied to a tree, and stood roaring, bat 
 
HABITS or Tnz LION. 75 
 
 afraid to moke a spring. On another occasion, one of oui 
 party was lying sound asleep and unconscious of danger 
 between two natives behind a bush at Mashue j the fire wai 
 nearly out at their feet in consequence of all being com. 
 pletoly tired out by the fatigues of the previous day : a lion 
 oamo up to within three yards of the fire, and there com. 
 monced roaring instead of making a spring : the fact of 
 their riding-ox being tied to the bush was the only reason 
 the lion had for not following his instinct and making a 
 meal of flesh. Ho then stood on a knoll throe hundred 
 yards distant, and roared all night, and continued hia 
 growling as the party moved off by daylight next morning. 
 Nothing that I ever learned of the lion would lead mo to 
 attribute to it either the ferocious or noble character ascribed 
 to it elsewhere. It possesses none of the nobility of the 
 Newfoundland or St. Bernard dogs. With respect to ita 
 great strength there can be no doubt. The immense masses 
 of muscle around its jaws, shoulders, and forearms pro- 
 claim tremendous force. They would seem, however, to 
 bo inferior in power to those of the Indian tiger. Most of 
 those feats of strength that I have seen performed by lions, 
 such as the taking away of an ox, were not carrying, but 
 dragging or trailing tho carcass along the ground : they 
 have sprung on some occasions on to the hind-quarters ol 
 a horse, but no one has ever seen them on tho withers of 
 a giraffo. They do not mount on the hind-quarters of an 
 eland even, but try to tear him down with their claws. 
 Messrs. Oswell and Yardon once saw three lions endeavor- 
 ing to drag down a buffalo, and they were unable to do so 
 Ibr a time, though ho was then mortally wounded by a 
 two^unco ball.* 
 
 * TbiB Bingnlar ensoonter, in the vords of od eye-witnera, happened 
 u follows : — 
 
 "Uy Bonth African Jonrnal ia now before tne, and I have got hold of 
 
 ' the aeconnt of the lion and bniTalo affair ; here it is :— ' loth September, 
 
 IMS. Otwell and I were riding this afternoon along tb« banka of the 
 
 7» 
 
76 HABITS 01' THE LION. 
 
 In general the lion seizes the animal he is attacking by the 
 flank near the hind-leg, or by the throat below the jaw. It ii 
 questionable whether he ever attempts to seize an animal by 
 the withers The flank is the most common point of attack, 
 and that is the part he begins to feast on first. The natives 
 and lions are very similar in their tastes in the selection ot 
 titbits : an eland may be seen disembowelled by a lion so 
 completely that he scarcely seems cut up at all. The 
 bowels and fatty parts form a full meal for even the largest 
 iion. The jackal comes sniffing about, and sometimes 
 Buffers for his temerity by a stroke from the lion's paw 
 
 Idmpopo, when a waterbuok started is. front of us. I dismounted, and 
 was following it through the jungle, when three buffaloes got up, ano^ 
 after going a little distance, stood still, and the nearest bull turned round 
 •nd looked at me. A ball from the two-onnoer crashed into his shoulder, 
 ■ad they all three made off. Oswell and I followed as soon as I had re- 
 loaded, and when we were in sight of the buffalo, and gaining on him at 
 •very stride, three lions leaped on the unfortunate brute ; he bellowed 
 most lustily as he kept up a kind of running fight, but he was, of course, 
 ■con overpowered and pulled down. Vfe had a fine view of the struggle, 
 and saw the lions on their hind-legs tearing away with teeth and clawt 
 In most ferocious style. We crept up within thirty yards, and, kneeling 
 down, blazed away at the lions. My rifle was a single barrel, and I had 
 BO spare gun. One lion fell dead almost on the buffalo ; he had merely 
 time to turn toward us, seize a bush with his teeth, and drop dead with 
 the stick in his jaws. The second made off immediately ; and the third 
 raised bis head, coolly looked round for a moment, then went on tearing 
 and biting at the carcass as hard as ever. We retired a short distane* 
 <o load, then again advanced and fired. The lion made off, but a ball 
 that he received ought to have stopped him, as it went clean through luf 
 ■houldor-blade. He was followed up and killed, after having charged 
 ■everal times. Both lions were males. It is not often that one bagi a 
 brace of lions and a bull-buffalo in about ten minutes. It was an exciting 
 •drenture, and I shall never forgot it' 
 
 " Such, my dear Livingstone, is the plain unvarnished account.. Thi 
 buffalo had, of course, gone close to where the lions were lying down foi 
 the day ; and they, seeing him lame and bleeding, thought the opporta 
 ■ity toe good a onr to be lost Ever yours, 
 
 " FBAXK VAkDOII 
 

 
 
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 I 
 
 
 
 . ^i'.^ 
 
 > 
 
 .-AS* 
 
 ■-*'.> V 
 
 '/// 
 
 .■^■J- " " *^ > 
 
HIS AOAA. 19 
 
 i&ymg him dead. When gorged, the lion falls fast asleep, and 
 IS then easily despatched. Hunting a lion with dogs involvoe 
 very little danger compared with hunting" the Indian tiger^ 
 because the dogs bring him out of cover and make him stand 
 at bay, giving the hunter plenty of time for a good deliberate 
 shot. 
 
 Where game is abundant, there you may expect lions ui 
 proportionately large numbers. They are never scon in 
 herds, but six or eight, probably one family, occasionally 
 hunt together. One is in much more danger of being run 
 over when walking in the streets of London than be is of 
 being devoured by lidiis in Africa, unless engaged in hunt- 
 ing the animal. Indeed, nothing that I have seen or beard 
 about lions would constitute a barrier in the way of men of 
 ordinary oourao'c and enterprise. 
 
 The same feeling which has induced the modem painter 
 to caricature the lion has led the sentimentalist to consider 
 the lion's roar the most terrific of all earthly sounds. We 
 hear of the " majestic roar of the king of beasts." It is. 
 indeed, well calculated to inspire fear if you hoar it in 
 combination with the tremendously loud thunder of that 
 country, on a night so pitchy dark that every flash of the 
 intensely vivid lightning leaves you with the impression 
 of stone-blindness, while the rain pours down so fast that 
 your fire goes out, leaving you without the protection of 
 even a tree, or the chance of your gun going off. Bat 
 when you are in a comfortable house or wagon, the case is 
 very different, and you hoar the roar of the lion without 
 any awe or alarm. The silly ostrich makes a noise as loud j 
 yet he never was feared by man. To talk of the majestio 
 roar of the lion is mere majestic twaddle. On my men- 
 tioning this fact some years ago, the assertion was doubted, 
 ■0 I have beoi: carefiil ever- since to inquire the opinion* 
 of Europeans, who have heard both, if they could detect 
 any difference between the roar of a lion and that of an 
 ostrich; the invariable answer was, that thoy could not 
 when the animal was at any distance. The natives assert 
 
go LIONS AND Bniri'AXX)£8. 
 
 that they can detect a variation between the commence- 
 ment of the noise of each. There is, it must be admitted, 
 considerable difference between the singing noise of a liou 
 when full, and his deep, gruff growl when hungry. In 
 general the lion's voice seems to come deeper from the 
 chest than that of the ostrich; but to this day I can dis- 
 tinguish between them with certainty only by knowing 
 that the ostrich roars by day and the lion by night. 
 
 The African lion is of a tawny color, like that of some 
 mastiffs. The mano in the male is largo, and gives the 
 idea of great power. In some lions -the ends of the hair 
 of the mane are black ; these go by the name of black- 
 maned lions, though as a whole all look of the yellow 
 tawny color. At the time of the discovery of the lake, 
 Messrs. Oswell and Wilson shot two specimens of another 
 variety. One was an old lion, whose teeth were mere 
 stumps, and his claws worn quite blunt j the other was 
 full grown, in the prime of life, with white, perfect teeth : 
 both were entirely destitute of mane. The lions in the 
 country near the lake give tongue less than those farther 
 south. We scarcely ever heard them roar at all. 
 
 The lion has other checks on inordinate increase besides 
 man. He seldom attacks full-grown animals; but fre- 
 quently, when a buffalo-calf is caught by him, the cow 
 rushes to the rescue, and a toss from her often kills him. 
 One we found was killed thus; and on the Loeambye an- 
 other, which died aear Sesheke, had all the appearance of 
 having received his death-blow from a buffalo. It is quos- 
 ticnable if a single lion ever attacks a full-grown buffalo. 
 The amount of roaring heard at night, on occasions when 
 % buffalo is killed, seems to indicate there are always moie 
 than one lion engaged in the onslaught. 
 
 On the plain, south of Sebituano's ford, a herd pf bu£Efi- 
 loes kept a number of lions from their young by the malea 
 turning their heads to the enemy. The young and the 
 eows were in the roar. One toss from a bull would kill 
 the Htrongost lioc that ever oreathed I have been in- 
 
^f^M 
 
 'M'- 
 
 
 J* ._ a.; 
 
 If***. 
 
 
 r 
 
 1 .'■■■ s 
 
 I'i 
 
 
 
SCKOMI'S VIEW OP EXTOtlTlON. 88 
 
 rormed that in one part of India oven the tamo buffaloes 
 feel their superiority to some wild animals, for thoy have 
 been scon to chase a tiger up the hills, bellowing as if thoy 
 enjoyed the sport. Lions never go near any clophante ex- 
 cept the calves, which, when young, are sometimes torr 
 by them; every living thing retires before the lordly olo 
 phant, yet a full-grown one would bo an easier prey than 
 the rhinoceros; the lion rushes off at the mere sight of 
 this latter boast. 
 
 When we reached the Bamangwato, the chief, Sckomi, 
 "vas particularly friendly, colleoted all his people to tha 
 religious services wc hold, and explained his reasons for 
 compelling some Englishmen to pay him a horse. " Thoy 
 would not sell him any powder, though they had plenty; 
 so he -compelled them to give it and the horse for nothing 
 Ho would not deny the extortion to me; that would bo 
 ' hohorehcre,' (swindling.)" He thus thought extortion 
 better than swindling. 1 could not detect any difFerenco 
 In the morality of the two transactions; hut Sokomi's ideas 
 of honesty are the lowest I have met with in any Bechu- 
 ana chief, and this instance is mentioned as the only ap- 
 proach to demanding payment for leave to pass that T have 
 met with in the south. In all other cases the difficulty haa 
 been to get a chief to give us men to show the way, and 
 the payment has only been for guides. Englishmen have 
 always very properly avoided giving that idea to the native 
 mind which wo shall hereafter find prove troublesome, that 
 payment ought to be made for passage through a country 
 
 January 28. — Passing on to Letloche, about twenty 
 miles beyond the Bartiangwato, we found a fine supply of 
 water. This is a point of so much interest in that country 
 that the first question we ask of passcrs-hy is, ''Havo you 
 had water '{" the first inquiry a native puts to a fellow- 
 countryman is, " Where is the rain V and, though they arc 
 by no moans an untruthful nation, the answer generally ik, 
 •'I don't know : there is none : wo are killed with hunger 
 and by the sun." If news is askod for, thoy commeno* 
 
M IifR. aORDON ODMMINQ. 
 
 With, " There is no news ; I hoard some lies only," and 
 then toll all they know. 
 
 This spot was Mr. Gordon Cumming's farthest station 
 north. Our house at Kolobeng having boon quite in the 
 hunting-country, rhinoceros and buffaloes several timoa 
 rushed past, and I was able to shoot the latter twice from 
 our own door. Wo were favored by visits from this famous 
 hunter during each of the five years of his warfare with 
 wild animals. Many Eijglish gentlemen following the 
 same pursuits paid their guides and assistants so puno- 
 tnally that in making arrangements for tbom we bad to be 
 careful that four did not go where two only were wanted : 
 they knew so well that an Englishman would pay that 
 they depended implicitly on his word of honor, and not 
 only would they go and hunt for five or six months in the 
 north, endui'ing all the hardships of that trying mode of 
 life, with little else but meat of game to subsist on, but 
 they willingly went seven hundred or eight hundred m.'les 
 10 Graham's Town, receiving for wages only a musket 
 worth fifteen shillings. 
 
 No one over deceived them, except one man ; and, as I 
 believed that he was afflicted with a slight degree of the 
 insanity of greediness, I upheld the honor of the English 
 name by paying his debts. As the guides of Mr. Camming 
 were furnished through my influence, and usually got some 
 strict charges as to their behavior before parting, looking 
 upon mo in the light of a father, they always came to give 
 mo an account of their service, and told most of those 
 hunting-adventures which have since been given to the 
 world, before wo bad the pleasure, of hearing our friend 
 relate them himself by our own fireside. I had thus a tole- 
 rably good opportunity of testing their accuracy, and 1 
 have no hesitation in saying that, for those who love that 
 sort of thing, Mr. Cumming's book conveys a trutliful idea 
 of South African hunting. Some things in it require ex 
 planation, but the numbers of animals said to have been 
 met with ap<^ killed are by no means improbable, consider- 
 
SPORTING 86 
 
 ing the amonnt of large gamo then in the country Two 
 other gontlomon hunting in the same region destroyed iit 
 one season no fewer than seventy-eight rhinoceroses alouA 
 Sportsmen, however, would not now find an equal numhei ; 
 for, as guns are introduced among the tribes, all these fine 
 Animals melt away like snow in spring. In the more 
 remote districts, where fire-arms have not yet been mtro 
 duced, with the single exception of the rhinoceros, the 
 game is to be found in numbers much greater than Mr 
 Cumming ever saw. The tsetse is, however, an insuper. 
 able barrier to hunjbing with horses there, and Europeans 
 can do nothing on foot. The step of the elephant when 
 charging the hunter, though apparently not quick, is so 
 long that the pace equals the speed of a good horse at a 
 canter. A young sportsman, no matter how great among 
 pheasants, foxes, and hounds, would do well to pause before 
 resolving to brave fever for the excitement of risking such 
 a terrific charge j the scream or trumpeting of this enor- 
 mous brute when infuriated is more like what the shriek 
 of a French steam-whistle would bo to a man standing on 
 the dangerous part of a railroad than any other earthly 
 sound : a horse unused to it will sometimes stand shivering 
 mstead of taking his rider out of danger. It has h»»ppencd 
 often that the poor animal's legs do their duty so badly 
 that he falls and causes his rider to bo trodden into a 
 mummy; or, losing his presence of mind, the rider may 
 allow the horse to dash under a tree and crack his cranium 
 against a branch. As one charge from an elephant has 
 made embryo Nimrods bid a final adieu to the chase, inci- 
 pient Gordon Cummings might try their nerves by stand- 
 ing on railwi^ys till the engines were within a few yards 
 of them. Hunting elephants on foot would bo not less 
 dangerous,* unless the Ceylon mode of killing them by 
 
 • Since writing the aboye statement, it has received coafirmafion ir 
 
 fhe reported death of Mr, Walhberg while hunting elephants on fort a» 
 
 Latco Ngam. 
 
 8 
 
S6 SCARCITr OP WATER. 
 
 one shot could bo followed: it has never been tried \d 
 Aftica. 
 
 Advancing to some wells beyond Lctlocho, at a spoi 
 named Kanno, wo found tbcm carefully hedged round by 
 the people of a Bakalahari village situated near the spot 
 We had then sixty miles of couiUry in front without water, 
 and very distressing for the oxen, as it is generally deep 
 soft sand. There is one sucking-place, around which were 
 congregated great numbers of JBush women with their egg- 
 shells and reeds. Mathuluano now contained no water, and 
 Motiatsa only a small supply ; so wo sent the oxen across 
 the country to the deep well Nkauane, and half were lost 
 on the way. Wlicn found at last, they had been five whole 
 days without water. Very large numbers of elands were 
 met with, as usual, though they seldom can get a sip of 
 drink. Many of the plains here have largo expanses of 
 grass without trees ; but you seldom sec a treeless horizon. 
 
 CHAPTER VIU. 
 
 DR. lilVINQSTONB REACHES THE COUNTRY OP THE MAKOLOLO 
 
 The Bakalahari, who live at Motiatsa Wells, have always 
 boon very friendly to us, and listen attentively to instruc- 
 tion convoyed to them in their own tongue. It is, how- 
 ever, difficult to give an idea to a European of tho little 
 jffcct teaching produces; because no one can realize the 
 degradation to which their minds have been sunk by cen- 
 torios of barbarism and hard struggling for tho necessaries 
 of lifo: like most others, they listen with respect and 
 attention; but, when wo kneel down and address an 
 anseen Being, the position and tho act often appear to 
 them so ridiculous that they cannot refrain from bursting 
 into uncontrollable laughter. After a few services the> 
 
EFFECTS OF MISSIONARY EFFORTS. 87 
 
 got over this tendency. I was once present when a mis- 
 sionary attempted to sing among a wild heathen tribe of 
 Bochuanas, who had no music in their composition : the 
 effout on the risible faculties of the audience was such that 
 the tears actually ran down their cheeks. Nearly all their 
 thoughts are directed to the supply of their bodily wants ; 
 and this has been the case with the race for ages. If asked, 
 then, what effect the preaching of the gospel has at the com- 
 mencement on such individuals, I am unable to tell, except 
 that some have confessed long afterward that they then first 
 began to pray in secret. Of the effects of a long-continued 
 course of instruction there can be no reasonable doubt, as 
 mere nominal belief has never been considered sufficient 
 proof of conversion by any body of missionaries ; and, after 
 the change which has been brought about by this agency, 
 wo have good reason to hope well for the future : those I 
 have myself witnessed behaving in the manner described, 
 when kindly treated in sickness, often utter imploring 
 words to Jesus, and, I believe, sometimes really do pray to. 
 him in their afflictions. As that great Eedeemer of the 
 guilty seeks to save all he can, we may hope that they 
 find mercy through his blood, though little able to appre- 
 ciate the sacrifice he made. 
 
 Leaving Motlatsa on the 8th of February, 1853, wo 
 passed down the Mokoko, which, in the memoty of per- 
 sons now living, was a flowing stream. 
 
 At Nchokotsa, the rainy season having this year been 
 delayed beyond the usual time, we found during the day 
 the thermometer stand at 96° in the coolest possible 
 shade. 
 
 "We dug out several wells ; and, as we had on each occa- 
 fflon to wait till the water flowed ir. again, and then allow 
 our cattle to feed a day or iwo and slake their thirsii 
 thoroughly, as far as that could be done, before starting, 
 our progress was but slow. At Koobe there was such a 
 mass of mud in the pond, worked up by the wallowing 
 rhinoceros to the consistency of moitar, that only by great 
 
88 THE BUS'HMKN 
 
 labor could we get a space cleared at one side for the watei 
 to ooze through and collect in for the oxen. 
 
 At Kapesh we came among our old friends the Bushmen, 
 under Horoye. This man, Horoye, a good specimen of 
 that tribe, and his son Mokantsa, and others, were at leasi 
 six feet high, and of a darker color than the Bushmen ol 
 the south. They have always plenty of food and water ; 
 and, as they frequent the Zouga as often as the game in 
 company with which they live, their life is very different 
 from that of the inhabitants of the thirsty plains of the 
 Kalahari . 
 
 Those among whom we now wore kill many elephants, 
 and, when the moon is full, choose that time for the chase, 
 on account of its coolness. Hunting this animal is the 
 best test of courage this country affords. The Bushmen 
 choose the moment succeeding a charge, when the ele- 
 phant is out of breath, to run in and give him a stab with 
 iheir long-bladed spears. In this case the uncivilized have 
 the advantage over us; but I believe that, with half their 
 training. Englishmen would beat the Bushmen. 
 
 At Maila we spent a Sunday with Kaisa, the head-man 
 of a village of Mashona, who had fled from the iron sway 
 of Mosilikatse, whose country lies cast of this. I wished 
 him to take charge of a packet of letters for Bnglard, to 
 be forwarded when, as is the custom of the Bamangwato, 
 the Bcchuanas come hither in search of skins and food 
 among the Bushmen; but he could not be made to compro 
 liend that there was no danger in the consignment. lie 
 feared the responsibility and guilt if any thing should hap- 
 pen to them ; so I had to bid adieu to all hope of letting 
 aiy fhmily hear of my welfare till I should reach the west 
 coast. 
 
 At "Unku we came into a tract of country which h:ui 
 been visited by refreshing showers long before, and every 
 spot was covered with grass run up to seed, and the flowers 
 of the forest were in full bloom. Instead of the dreary 
 prospect, around Koobe and Nchokotsa, we had hero a do 
 
PARTY ATTACKED BY FEVER. 89 
 
 lightful scene, — all the ponds full of water, and the birds 
 wittering joyfully. As the game can now obtain water every- 
 where, they become very shy, and cannot be found in their 
 accustomed haunts. * 
 
 1st March. — The thermometer in the shade generally stood 
 at 98° from 1 to 3 p.m.; but it sank as low as 65° by 
 light; so that the heat was by no means exhausting. At 
 the surface of the ground, in the sun, the thermometer 
 marked 125°, and three inches below it, 138°. The hand 
 cannot be held on the ground, and even the horny soles of 
 the feet of the natives must be protected by sandals of 
 hide; yet the ants were busy working on it. The water 
 in the ponds was as high as 100° ; but, as water does not 
 conduct heat readily downward, deliciously-cool water 
 may be obtained by any one walking into the middle and 
 lifting up the water from the bottom to the surface with 
 his hands. 
 
 Proceeding to the north, from Kama-kama, wo entered 
 into dense Mohonono bush, which required the constant 
 application of the axe by three of our party for two days. 
 This bush has fine silvery leaves, and the bark has a sweet 
 taste. The elephant, with his usual delicacy of taste, foods 
 much on it. On emerging into the plains beyond, wo found 
 a number of Bushmen, who afterward proved very service- 
 ablo. The rains had been copious ; but now great numbers 
 of pools were drying up. Lotus-plants abounded in them, 
 and a low, sweet-scented plant covered their banks. 
 Breezes came occasionally to us from these drying-up 
 p<>ols ; but the pleasant odor they carried caused snoozing 
 in both myself and people ; and on the 10th of March (when 
 in lat. 19° 16' 11" S., long. 24° 24' B.) we were brought 
 to a stand by four of the party being seized with fever. 
 L had seen this disease before, but did not at ouce recognise 
 it as the African fever : I imagined it was only a bilious 
 attack arising from full feeding on flesh; for, the largo 
 game having been very abundant, we always had a good 
 Hu|iply But, instead of the first sufferers recovering soon, 
 
90 3RAP158. 
 
 every man of tur party was in a few days laid low, except 
 a Baliwain and myself. He managed the oxen, Avhile I 
 attended to the wants of the patients and went out ©cca- 
 Bionally with the Bushmen to get a zebra or buflalo, so as 
 to induce them to remain with ua. 
 
 Here for the first time I had leisure to follow the mstmo- 
 Uons of my kind teacher, Mr. Maclear, and calculated seve- 
 ral longitudes from lunar distances. The hearty manner 
 in which thai eminent astronomer and frank, friendly man 
 had promised to aid me in calculating and verifying my 
 work conduced more than any thing else to inspire mo 
 with perseverance in making astronomical observationH 
 throughout the journey. 
 
 "We wished to avoid the tsetse of our former path, so 
 kept a course on the magnetic meridan from Lurilopepo. 
 The necessity of making a new path much increased our 
 toil. "We were, however, rewarded in lat. 18° with a sight 
 we had not enjoyed the year before, namely, large patches 
 of grape-bearing vines. There they stood before my eyes; 
 but the sight was so entirely unexpected that I stood some 
 time gazing at the clusters of grapes with which they were 
 loaded, with no more thought of plucking than if 1 had 
 been beholding them in a dream. The Bushmen know 
 and cat them ; but they are not well flavored, on account 
 of the great astringency of the seeds, which are in shape 
 and size like split peas. The elephants are fond of the 
 fruit, plant, and root alike. 
 
 The forest, through which we were slowly toiling, dallj 
 became more dense, and we were kept almost constantly 
 lit work with the axe ; there was much more leafinesB in 
 the trees here than farther south. The leaves are chiefly 
 of the pinnate and bi-pinnate forms, and are exceedingly 
 beautiful when seen against the sky : a great variety of 
 the papilionaceous family grow in this part of the country. 
 
 Fleming had until this time always assisted to drive his 
 own wagon, but about the end of March he knocked up, an 
 well as his peoole Ab I could not drive two wacona. I 
 
BUSHMEN'S MODE OP LION-HUNTINO. 91 
 
 shared with him tho remaining water, half a c&skful, and 
 wont on, with the intention of coming back for him as 
 soon as wo should reach the next pool. Heavy rain now 
 commenced; I was employed the whole day in cutting down 
 trees, and every stroke of tho axe brought down a thick 
 shower on my back, which in the hard work was very 
 refreshing, as the water found its way down into my shoes 
 In the evening we met some Bushmen, who volunteered 
 to show us a pool; and, having unyoked, I walked some 
 miles in search of it. As it became dark they showed 
 their politeness — a quality which is by no means confined 
 entirely to the civilized — by walking in front, breaking the 
 branches which hung across tho path, and pointing out the 
 fallen trees. On returning to tho wagon, we found that 
 being left alone had brought out some of Fleming's energy, 
 for ho had managed to come up. 
 
 As the water in this pond dried up, we were soon 
 obliged to move again. One of the Bushmen took out his 
 dice, and, after throwing them, said that God told him to 
 go home. He throw again, in order to show mo tho com- 
 mand, but the opposite result followed; so ho remained 
 and was useful, for we lost the oxen again by a lion driving 
 them off to a very great distance. The lions here are not 
 often heard. They seem to have a wholesome dread of the 
 Bushmen, who, when they observe evidence of a lion's 
 having made a full meal, follow up his spoor so quietly 
 that his slumbers are not disturbed. One discharges a 
 poisoned arrow from a distance of only a few feet, while 
 his companion simultaneously throws his' skin cloak on the 
 beast's head. The sudden surprise makes the lion lose his 
 presence of mind, and he bounds away in the greatest con- 
 fusion and terror. Our friends here showed mo the poison 
 which they use on these occasions. It is the entrails 
 of a caterpillar called N'gwa, half an inch long. They 
 squeeze out these, and place them all around tho bottom 
 of the barb, and allow the poison to dry in the sun. They 
 are very careful in cleaning their nails after working with 
 
B2 THE SANSHUBEB 
 
 it, as a small portion introduced into a scratch acts like 
 morbid matter in dissection-wounds. The agony is so 
 great that the person cuts himself, calls for his mother's 
 breast as if he were returned in idea to his childhood again, 
 or flies from human habitations a raging maniac. The 
 effects on the lion are equally terrible. Ho is heard moan- 
 ing .n distress, and becomes furious, biting the trees and 
 gi ound in rage. 
 
 A.S the Bushmon have the reputation of curing the 
 wounds of this poison, I asked how this was effected. 
 Tboy said that they administer the caterpillar itself in 
 combination with fat; they also rub fat into the wound, 
 saying that " the N'gwa wants fat, and, when it does not 
 find it in the body, kills the man: we give it what it 
 wants, and it is content :" a reason whl.-h will commend 
 itself to the enlightened among ourselves. 
 
 None of the men of our party had died, but two seemed 
 unlikely to recover; and Kibopechoe, ray willing Mokwain, 
 at last became troubled with boils, and then got all the 
 symptoms of fever. As he lay do^'m, the others began to 
 move about, and complained of weakness only. Believing 
 that frequent change of place was conducive to their 
 recovery, wo moved along as much as wo could, and came 
 to the hill N'gwa, (lat. 18° 27' 20" S., long. 24° 13' 36" E.) 
 This being the only hill we had seen since leaving Bamang- 
 wato, wo felt inclined to take off our hats to it. It ib 
 throe or four hundred feet high, and covered with trees. 
 
 Our Bushmen wished to leave ns, and, as there was no 
 use in trying to thwart these independent .gentlemen, 1 
 paid them, and allowed them to go. The payment, how- 
 ever, acted as a charm on some strangers who happenoa 
 to be present, and induced them to volunteer their aid. 
 
 We at last came to the Sanshureh, which presented an 
 impassable barrier; so we drew up under a magnificent 
 baobab-tree, (lat. 18° 4' 27" S., long. 24° 6' 20" E.,) and 
 resolved to explore the river for a ford. The great quanr- 
 tity of water we had passed through was part of the 
 
BANKS or THE OnOBE. 98 
 
 uwaal inundation of the Chobe ; and this, which appoarod 
 a largo, deep river, filled in many parts with reeds, and 
 having hippopotami in it, is only one of the branches by 
 which it sends its superabundant water to the southeast. 
 
 We made so many attempts to get over the Sanshuroh, 
 both to the west and oast of the wagon, in the hope of 
 reaching some of the Makololo on the Chobe, that my 
 Bushmen friends became quite frrcd of the ■work. Bj 
 means of presents I got them to remain some days; but ut 
 last they slipped away by night, and I was fain to take 
 one of the strongest of my still weak companions and cross 
 the river in a pontoon, the gift of Captains Codrington and 
 Webb. Wo each carried some provisions and a blanket, 
 and penetrated about twenty miles to the westward, in 
 the hope of striking the Chobe. It was much nearer to us 
 in a northerly direction, but this wo did not then know. 
 The plain, over which we splashed the whole Of the first 
 day, was covered with water ankle deep, and thick grasH 
 ivhich reached above the knees. In the evening we came 
 to an immense wall of reeds, six or eight feet high, without 
 any opening admitting of a passage. When we tried to 
 enter, the water always became so deep that we wore lain 
 to desist. We concluded that wo had como to the banks 
 of the river wo were in search of; so wo directed our course 
 to some trees which appeared in the south, in order to get 
 a bod and a view of the adjacent locality. Having shot a 
 loche, and made a glorious fire, we got a good crp of tea 
 and had a comfortable night. 
 
 Next morning, by climbing tlio highest trees, we conld 
 8«o a fine large sheet of water, but surrounded on all sides 
 Dy the same impenetrable belt of reeds. This is the broad 
 part of the river Chobe, and is called Zabesa. Two tree- 
 covered islands seemed to be much nearer to the water 
 than tho snore on which we were ; so we made an attempt 
 to got to them first. It was not the reeds alone wo had 
 to pass through; a peculiar serrated grass, which at certain 
 ingles cut tho handi like a razor, was mingled with the 
 
94 
 
 THB OHOBB. 
 
 reed, and tho climbing convolvulus, with stalks which folt 
 as strong as whipcord, bound the mass together. Wo felt 
 like pygmies in it, and often the only way we could get 
 on was by both of us leaning against a part and bending 
 it down till wo could stand upon it. Tho perspiration 
 streamed off our bodies, and as the sun rose high, there 
 being no ventilation among the reeds, the heat was stifling, 
 and tho water, which was up to tho knees, felt agreeably 
 refreshing. After some hours' toil we reached one of the 
 islands. Hero wo met an old friend, tho bramble-bush. 
 M.y strong moleskins wore quite worn through at the knees, 
 and the leather trousers of my companion were torn and 
 nis legs bleeding. Tearing my handkerchief in two, I tied 
 tho pieces round my knees, and then encountered another 
 difficulty. Wo were still forty or fifty yards from the clear 
 water, but now we were opposed by great masses of papy- 
 rus, which arc like palms in miniature, eight or ton feet 
 high, and an inch and a half in diameter. These were 
 laced together by twining convolvulus so strongly that the 
 weight of both of us could not make way into the clear 
 watei. At last we fortunately found a passage prepared 
 by a hippopotamus. Eager as soon as wo reached tho 
 island to look along the vista to clear water, I stepped in 
 and found it took mo at once up to the nock. 
 
 Eeturning nearly worn out, we proceeded up tho bank 
 of the Chobe till we camo to the point of departure of the 
 branch Sanshureh ; we then went in the opposite direction, 
 or down the Chobe, though from the highest trees we could 
 see nothing but one vast expanse of reed, with hero and 
 there a tree on the islands. This was a hard day's work ; 
 and, when we came to a deserted Bayeiye hut on an ant- 
 bill, not a bit of wood or any thing else could be got foi a 
 fire except tho grass and sticks of the dwelling itself 1 
 dreaded tho " Tampans, " so common in all old huts ; but 
 outside of it we had thousands of mosquitos, and cold 
 dew began to be deposited, so wo wcro fain to crawl be- 
 Death its shelter. 
 
ARRIVAL AT MOUEMI. 9ft 
 
 We wero close to the reods, and could listen to the strange 
 sounds which are often heard there. By day I had seen 
 water-snakes putting t\p their heads and swimming about 
 There were great numbers of otters, (JJutra inunguis, P. 
 Ouvicr,) which have made little spoors all over the plains 
 in search of the fishes, among the tall grass of these flooded 
 prairies; cui-ious birds, too, jerked and wriggled among 
 these reedy masses, and wo heard human-like voices and 
 unearthly sounds, with splash, guggle, jupp, as if rare fun 
 were going on in their uncouth haunts. After a damp, 
 cold night, we set to, early in the morning, at our work of 
 exploring again, but left the pontoon in order to lighten 
 our labor. The ant-hills are here very high, some thirty 
 feet, and of a base so broad that trees grow on them ; while 
 the lands, annually flooded, bear nothing but grass. From 
 one of these ant-hills we discovered an inlet to the Chobo ; 
 and, having gone back for the pontoon, we launched our- 
 selves on a deep river, here from eighty to one hundred 
 yards wide. I gave my companion strict injunctions to 
 stick by the pontoon in case a hippopotamus should looU 
 at us ; nor was this caution unnecessary, for one came up 
 at our side and made a desperate plunge off. "We had 
 passed over him. The wave ho made caused the pontoon 
 to glide quickly away from him. 
 
 We paddled on from mid-day till sunset. There was 
 nothing but a wall of reed on each bank, and wo saw every 
 prospect of spending a suppcrless night in our float ; but, 
 just as the short twilight of these parts was commencing, 
 we perceived on the north bank the village of Moromi, one 
 of the Makololo, whoso acquaintance I had made on our 
 foimer visit, and who was now located on the island Ma. 
 honta, (lat. 17° 58' S., long. 24° 6' B.) The villagers looked 
 as we may suppose people do who see a ghost, and in their 
 figurative way of speaking said, " Ho has dropped among 
 OB from the clouds, yet came riding on the back of a hip- 
 popotamus I We Makololo thought no one could cross th* 
 
96 DEPARTURE FROM LINYANTI. 
 
 Chobe without our knowledge, but here he drops among us 
 like a bird." 
 
 Next day we returned in canoes across the flooded lands, 
 and found that, in our absence, the men had allowed the 
 cattle to wander into a very small patch of wood to the west 
 containing the tsetse ; this carelessness cost me ten fine largo 
 oxen. After remaining a few days, some of the head-men of 
 the Makololo came down from Linyanti, with a large party 
 of Barotse, to take us across the river. This they did in line 
 style, swimming and diving among the oxen more like alligUr 
 tors than men, and taking the wagons to pieces and carrying 
 them across on a number of canoes lashed together. We 
 were now among friends; so, going about thirty miles to the 
 north, in order to avoid the still flooded lands on the north 
 of the Chobe, we turned westward toward Linyanti, (lat. 18° 
 17' 20" S., long. 23° 50' 9" E.,) where we arrived on the 23d 
 of May, 1853. This is the capital town of the Makololo, and 
 only a short distance from our wagon-stand of 1851, (lat. 
 18° 20' S.. long. 73° 50' E.) 
 
 CHAPTEK IX. 
 
 DE. LIVINGSTONE LABORS AS A MISSIONARY AMONG THE 
 MAKOLOLO. 
 
 The whole population of Linyanti, numbering between 
 six and seven thousand souls, turned out en masse to see the 
 wagons in motion. They had never witnessed the phenome- 
 non before, we having on the former occasion departed by 
 night. Sekeletu,now in power, received us in what is con- 
 sidered royal style, setting before us a great number of pots 
 of boyaloa, the beer of the country. These were brought by 
 women, and each bearer takes a good draught of the beer 
 when she sets it down, by way of " tasting," to show that there 
 is no poison. 
 
THE COURT nERALlI 9? 
 
 Tho court herald, an old man who occupied the post also 
 Id Sebituano's timo, stood up, and after some antics, such 
 as leaping, and shouting at tho top of his voice, roared out 
 some adulatory sentoneos, as, " Don't I boo tho white man? 
 Don't I see tho comrade of Scbituane ? Don't I see tho 
 father of Sekeletu ?" — " Wo want sleep." — " Give your san 
 sleep, my lord," &c. &c. The perquisites of this man are 
 the beads of all the cattle slaughtered by the chief, and ha 
 even takes a share of the tribute before it is distributed 
 and taken out of the kotla. Ho is expected to utter all the 
 proclamations, call assemblies, keep the kotla clean, and 
 the fire burning every evening, and when a person is 
 executed in public ho drags away the body. 
 
 I found Sekeletu a young man of eighteen years of age, 
 of that dark yellow or coffee-and-milk color of which tho 
 Makololo are so proud, because it distinguishes them 
 considerably from tho black tribes on tho rivers. He is 
 about five feet seven in height, and neither so good-looking 
 nor of so much ability as his father was, but is equally 
 friendly to the English. Sebituane installed his daughter 
 Mamochisane into tho chieftainship long before his death, 
 but, with all his acuteness, the idea of her having a hus- 
 band who should not be her lord did not seem to enter his 
 mind. He wished to make hor his successor, probably in 
 imitation of some of tho negro tribes with whom he had 
 come into contact ; but, being of the Bechuana race, he 
 could not look upon the husband except as tho woman's 
 lord; so he told her all the men were hers, — she might 
 take any one, but ought to keep none. In fact, he thought 
 she might do with the men what he could do with tho 
 women ; but these men had other wives ; and, according' 
 to a saying in the country, " tho tongues of women can- 
 not be governed," they mado her miserable by their re- 
 marks. One man whom she chose was even called her wife, 
 and her son the child of Mamochisane's wife; but the ay 
 rangemen^ was so distasteful to Mamochisane herself that, 
 as soon as Sebituane died, she said she never would consent 
 
 (i 8 
 
98 BEKZLETD BECOMES CHIEFTAIN 
 
 to govern the Makololo bo long as she had a brother liying 
 Sekeletn, being afraid of another member of the family, 
 Mpepe, who had pretensions to the chieftainship, urged hi« 
 iiister strongly to remain as she had always been, and 
 allow him to support her authority by leading the Mako- 
 lolo when they went forth to war. Three days were spent 
 in public discussion on the point. Mpepe insinuated that 
 Sekeletu was not the lawful son of Sebituane, on account 
 of his mother having been the wife of another chief before 
 her marriage with Sebituane; Mamochisanc, however, 
 upheld Sekclctu's claims, and at last stood up in the as- 
 jembly and addressed him with a womanly gush of tears : 
 — "I have been a chief only because my father wished it. 
 I always would have preferred to be married and have a 
 &mily like other women. You, Sekeletu, must bo chief, 
 and build up your father's house." This was a death-blow 
 to the hopes of Mpepe, who was soon after speared for an 
 attempt to assassinate Sekeletu. 
 
 Soon after our ai-rival at Linyanti, Sekeletu took me 
 aside, and pressed me to mention those things I liked best 
 and hoped to get from him. Any thing, either in or out 
 of his town, should be freely given if I would only men- 
 tion it. 1 explained to him that my object was to elevate 
 him and his people to be Christians ; but he replied he did 
 not wish to learn to read the Book, for he was afraid " it 
 might change his heart, and make him content with only 
 one wife, like Sechele." It was of little use to urge that 
 the change of heart implied a contentment with one wife 
 equal to his present complacency in polygamy. Such a 
 preference after the change of mind could not now be 
 understood by him any more than the real, unmistakable 
 pleasure of religious services can by those who have not 
 experienced what is known by the term the " new heart." 
 I assured him that nothing was expected Dut by his own 
 voluntary decision. "No, no; he wanted always to have 
 five wives at least " I liked the frankness of Sekeletu, fm 
 
PUBLIC RELIGIOUS SERVICE 99 
 
 nothing is so wearying to tlio spirit as talking to those 
 who agrco with ovory thing advanced. 
 
 At our pub'.'O religious services in the kotla, the Mako- 
 lc!o -vvomcn always behaved with decorum from the first, 
 except al the conclusion of the prayer. When all knolt 
 •Jown, many of those who had children, in following the 
 axamplo of the rest, bent over their little ones : the chil- 
 dren, in teiTor of being crushed to death, sot up a simul- 
 taneous yell, which so tickled the whole assembly there 
 was often a subdued titter, to be turned into a hearty 
 laugh as soon as they heard Amen. 
 
 The numbers who attended at the summons of the 
 herald, who acted as beadle, were often from five to seven 
 hundred. The service consisted of reading a small portion 
 of the Bible and giving an explanatory address, usually 
 short enough to prevent weariness or want of attention. 
 So long as we continue to hold services in the kotla, the as- 
 sociations of the place are unfavorable to solemnity; hence 
 it 18 always desirable to have a place of worship as soon as 
 possible ; and it is of importai.ce, too, to treat such place 
 with reverence, as an aid to secure that serious attention 
 which religious subjects demand. This will appear more 
 evident when it is recollected that, in the very spot where 
 wo had been engaged in acts of devotion, half an hour 
 after a dance would be got up ; and these habits cannot bo 
 at first opposed without tho appearance of assuming too 
 Tnuch authority over them. It is always unwise to hurt 
 their feelings of independence. 
 
 To givo an idea of tho routine followed for months to- 
 gether, on other days as well as on Sundays, I may advert 
 to my habit of treating the. sick for complaints which 
 seemed to surniount. the skill of their own doctors. I ro- 
 irained from going to any one unless his own doctor 
 wished it or had given up the case. This led to my 
 having a selection of tho severer cases only, and prevented 
 tho doctors' being offended at my taking, their practice out 
 of their hands. When attacked by fover myself, and wish 
 
100 TEAOHINQ THE MAKOLOLO TO READ. 
 
 Ing to ascertain what their practices wore, I could safely 
 intrust myself in thoir hands, on account of their well- 
 known friendly feelings. 
 
 I proposed to teach the Makololo to read ; but, for the 
 reasons mentioned, Sekeletu at first declined : after som.*. 
 weeks, however, Motibo, his father-in-law, and some others^ 
 determined to brave the mysterious book. To all who 
 have not acquired it, the knowledge of letters is quite 
 unfathomable; there is naught like it within the compasa 
 of their observation ; and wo have no comparison with 
 any thing except pictures, to aid them in comprehending 
 the idea of signs of words. It seems to them supernatural 
 that we see in a book things taking place or having oc- 
 curred at a distance. No amount of explanation convoys 
 the idea unless thoy leam to read. Machinery is equally 
 inexplicable, and money nearly as much so until they see 
 it in actual use. They are familiar with barter alone; and 
 in the centre of the country, where gold is totally un- 
 known, if a button and sovereign wore left to their choice, 
 they would prefer the former on account of its having an 
 eye. 
 
 In beginning to learn, Motibo seemed to himself in the 
 position of the doctor, who was obliged to drink his potion 
 before the patient, to show that it contained nothing detri- 
 mental; after he had mastered the alphabet, and reported 
 Lho thing so far safe, Sekeletu and his young companions 
 came forward to try for thomsolves. Ho must have re- 
 solved to watch the effects of the book against his views 
 on polygamy, and abstain whenever ho perceived any ten- 
 dency, in reading it, toward enforcing him to put his wivoc 
 away A number of men learned the alphabet in a short 
 time, ani were set to teach others, but before much pro- 
 gress could bo made I was on my way to Loanda. 
 
 As I had declined to name any thing as a present from 
 Sekeletu, except a canoe, to take me up the river, he brought 
 ten fine elephants' tusks and laid them down beside my 
 wagon. He would take no denial, though I told him 1 
 
BEKELBTU'S PRESENT. 101 
 
 should prefer to see him trading with Fleming, a man of 
 color from the "West Indies, wBo had como for the purpose 
 I had, during the eleven years of my previous coufbo, 
 invariably abstained from taking presents of ivory, from an 
 idea that a religious instructor degraded himself by accept" 
 ing gifts from those whose spiritual welfare he professed 
 to seek. My precedence of all traders in the line of die 
 covery put me often in the way of very handsome offers j 
 but I always advised tno donors to sell their ivory to 
 tiraders, who would be sure to follow, and when at some 
 fliture time they had become rich by barter they might 
 remember me or my children. "When Lake Ngami was 
 discovered, 1 might h iive refused permission to a trader 
 who accompanied us; but when he applied for leave to 
 form part of our company, knowing that Mr. Oswoll 
 would no more trade than myself, and that the people of 
 the lake would be disappointed if they could not dispose 
 of their ivory, I willingly granted a sanction, without 
 which his people would not at that time have ventured so 
 far. This was surely preferring the interest of another to 
 my own. TJio return I got for this was a notice in one 
 of the Cape papers that this " man was the true discoverei 
 of the lake !" 
 
 The conclusion I had come to was that it is quite lawful, 
 though perhaps not expedient, for missionaries to trade; 
 but barter is the only means by which a missionary in the 
 interior can pay his way, as money has no value. In all 
 the journeys I had previously undertaken for wider diffu- 
 sion of the gospel, the extra expenses were defrayed from 
 my salary of £100 per annum. This sum is sufficient to 
 enable a missionary to livo in the interior of South Africa, 
 Hupposing he has a garden capable of yielding com and 
 vegetables ; but should ho not, and still consider that six 
 or eight months cannot lawfully be spent simply in getting 
 goods at a lower price than they can be had from itinerant 
 traders, the sum mentioned is barely sufficient for the 
 poorest fare and plainest apparel. As we never felt out. 
 
102 PRESENTS AND TRADING. 
 
 BelvoB Justified in making journeys to the colony fbr th« 
 eako of Bocuring bargains, the most frugal living was ne- 
 cessary to enable us to be a little charitable to others; but 
 •ehen to this were added extra travelling-expenses, the 
 wants of an increasing family, and liberal gifts to chiefs, it 
 was difficult to make both ends meet. The pleasure of 
 missionary labor would be enhanced if one could devote 
 his life to the heathen without drawing a salary from a 
 society at all. The luxury of doing good from one's own 
 private resources, without appearing to either natives or 
 Kuropeans to be making a gain of it, is far preferable, and 
 ail object worthy the ambition of the rich. But few men 
 of fortune, however, now devote themselves to Christian 
 missions, as of old. Presents were always given to the 
 chiefs whom we visited, and nothing accepted in return ; 
 but when Sebituane (in 1851) offered some ivory, I took 
 it, and was able by its sale to present his son with a num- 
 ber of really useful articles of a higher value than I had 
 ever been able to give before to any chief. In doing this, 
 of course, I appeared to trade, but, I'eeling I, had a right to 
 do so, I felt perfectly easy in my mind ; and, as I still held 
 the view of the inexpediency of combining the two profes- 
 sions, I was glad of the proposal of one of the most honor- 
 able merchants of Capo Town, Mr. H. E. Euthcrford, that 
 ho should risk a sum of money in Fleming's hands for the 
 purpose of attempting to develop a trade with the Mako- 
 lolo. It was to this man I suggested Sekclctu should soU 
 the tusks which he had presented for my acceptance ; but 
 the chief refused to take thorn back from me. The goods 
 which Fleming had brought were ill adapted for the use 
 of the natives, but he got a pretty good load of ivory in 
 exchange; ana though it was nis first attempt at trading, 
 and the distance travelled over made the expenses enor- 
 dons, ho warf not a loser by the trip. Other traders fol- 
 lowed, who demanded 90 lbs. of ivory for a musket. The 
 Makololo, 'raowing nothing of steelyards, but supposing 
 that they were meant to cheat them, declined to trade 
 
PKESENVS TO SEKELETC. 103 
 
 except by exchanging one bull and one cow elephant's 
 task for each gun. This would average 70 lbs. of ivory, 
 which sells at the Ciipo for 5s. per pound, for a second- 
 hand musket worth 10s. I, being sixty miles distant, did 
 not witness this attempt at barter, but, anxious to enable 
 my countrymen to drive a brisk trade, told the Makololo 
 to sell my ten tusks on their own account for whatevcf 
 they would bring. Seventy tusks were for sale, but, the 
 parties not understanding each other's talk, no trade was 
 oatablished ; and when I passed the spot some time after- 
 ivard 1 found that the whole of that ivory had been de- 
 stroyed by an accidental fire, which broke out in the village 
 when all the people were absent. Success in trade is as 
 much dependent on knowledge of the language as success 
 ■jQ travelling. 
 
 I had brought with me as presents an improved breed 
 of goats, fowls, and a pair of cats. A superior bull was 
 bought, also as a gift to Sekeletu; but I was compelled to 
 leave it on account of its having become foot-sore. As the 
 Makololo are very fond of improving the breed of their 
 domestic animals, they were much pleased with my selec 
 tion. I endeavored to bring the bull, in performance of a 
 promise made to Scbituano before ho died. Admiring a 
 calf which wo had with us, he proposed to give me a cow for 
 it, which in the native estimation was offering three times 
 its value. I presented it to him at once, and promised to 
 bring him another and a better one. Sekeletu was mach 
 ((ratified by my attempt to keep my word given to hia 
 father. 
 
104 THS VEYIiK. 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 SICKNESS OP DR. LIVINGSTONE — ACCOUNT OF SEKELETH AMI 
 HIS SUBJECTS. 
 
 On the SOtli of May I was seized witli fever, for the first 
 Urao. We reached the town of Linyanti on the 23d ; and, 
 as my habits were suddenly changed from great exertion to 
 comparative inactivity, at the commencement of tho cold 
 season I suffered from a severe attack of stoppage of the 
 secretions, closely resembling a common cold. Warm baths 
 and drinks relieved me, and I had no idea but that I was 
 now recovering from the effects of a chill got by leaving 
 the warm wagon in the evening in order to conduct family 
 worship at my people's fire. But on the 2d of June a 
 relapse showed to the Makololo, who knew the complaint, 
 that my indisposition was no other than the fever, with 
 which I have since made a more intimate acquaintance. 
 Cold east winds prevail at this time; and as they come 
 over the extensive flats inundated by the Chobe, as well as 
 many other districts where pools of rain-water are now 
 drying up, they may bo supposed to be loaded with mala- 
 ria and watery vapor, and many cases of fever follow. Tho 
 usual symptoms of stopped secretion are manifested, — 
 shivering and a feeling of coldness, though the skin is 
 quite hot to the touch of another. The heat in the axil]89, 
 over the heart and region of the stomach, was in my case 
 1 00°, but along the spine and at the nape of the neck 103'' 
 The internal processes wero all, with the exception of iho 
 kidneys and liver, stopped ; tho latter, in its efforts to freo 
 the blood of noxious particles, often secretes enormous 
 quantities of bile. There were pains along the spine, and 
 frontal headache. Anxious to ascertain whether tho natives 
 possessed tho knowledge of any remedy of which we were 
 ignorant, I rbquostcd tho assistance of one of Sekeletu's 
 doctors He put snmo roots into a pot with water, and, 
 
NATIVE REMEDIES. lOO 
 
 When it was boiling, placed it on a spot beneath a blanket 
 thrown around both me and it. This produced no im- 
 mediate effect : he then got a small bundle of different 
 kinds of medicinal woods, and, burning them in a potsherd 
 nearly to ashes, used the smoke and hot vapor arising from 
 them as an auxiliary to the other in causing diaphoresis 
 I fondly hoped that they had a more potent remedy than 
 our own medicines afford; but after being stewed in their 
 vapor-baths, smoked like a red herring over green twigSj 
 and charmed secundum artem, I concluded that I could cure 
 the fever more quickly than they can. If we employ a wet 
 sheet and a mild aperient in combination with quinine, in 
 addition to the native remedies, they are an important aid 
 in curing the fever, as they seem to have the same stimu- 
 lating effects on the alimentary canal as these means have 
 on the external surface. Purgatives, general bleeding, or 
 indeed any violent remedies, are injurious; and the ap- 
 pearance of a herpetic eruption near the mouth is regarded 
 as an evidence that no internal organ is in danger. There 
 is a good deal in not "giving in" to this disease. Ho who 
 is low-spirited, and apt to despond at every attack, will die 
 sooner than the man who is not of such a melancholic nature. 
 The Malcololo had made a garden and planted maize for 
 me, that, as they remarked when I was parting with them 
 to proceed to the Cape, I might have food to eat when 1 
 returned, as well as other people. The maize was now 
 pounded by the women into fine meal. This they do in 
 largo wooden mortars, the counterpart of which may be 
 neon depicted on the Egyptian monuments. Sekcletn added 
 to this good supply of meal ten or twelve jars of honey, 
 each of which contained about two gallons. Liberal sup 
 plies of groundnuts were also furnished every time thp 
 tributary tribes brought their dues to Linyanti, and an ox 
 was given for slaughter every week or two. Sekeletu also 
 appropriated two cows to be milked for us every morning 
 and evening. This was in accordance with the acknow 
 ledged rule throughout the country, that the chief shoiild 
 
106 EXTENSIVE CULTIVATION OP LAND. 
 
 feed all the strangers who come on any special business to 
 him and lake up their abode in his kotla. 
 
 The Makololo cultivate a large extent of land around 
 their villages. Those of thorn who are real Basutos still 
 retain the habits of that tribe, and may be seen going out 
 with their wives with their hoes in hand, — a state of things 
 never witnessed at Kolobeng, or among any other Bo- 
 chuana or Caffre tribe. The great chief Moshesh afforda 
 nn example to his people annually, by not only takingthe hoe 
 in hand, but working hard with it on certain public occasions. 
 His Basutos are of the same family with the Makololo t»> 
 ■yhom I refer. The younger Makololo, who have been 
 accustomed from their infancy to lord it over the conquered 
 Makalaka, have unfortunately no desire to imitate the 
 agricultural tastes of their fathers, and expect their sub- 
 jects to perform all the manual labor. They arc the aris- 
 tocracy of the country, and once possessed almost unlimited 
 power over their vassals. Their privileges were, however, 
 much abridged by Sebituane himself. 
 
 The tribes which Scbitnane subjected in this great 
 country pass by the general name of Makalaka. The Ma- 
 kololo were composed of a great number of other tribes, 
 as well as thesa central negroes. The nacleus of the whole 
 were Basuto, who came with Sebituane from a compara- 
 tively cold an 1 hilly region in the south. When ho con- 
 quered various tribes of the Bechuanas, as Bakwains, 
 Bangwakctze, Bamangwato, Batauana, &c., he incorpo- 
 rated the young of these tribes into his own. Great mor- 
 tality by fever having taken place in the original stock, he 
 wisely adopted the same plan of absorption on a large scalo 
 with the Makalaka. So we found him with even the sons 
 of the chiefs of the Barotse closely attached to his person ; 
 and they say to this day, if any thing else but natural 
 death had assailed their father, every one of them would 
 have laid down his life in his defence. One reason for theii 
 strong affection was their emancipation by the decree. of 
 Sebituane, "all are children of the chief." 
 
WAKUKS DEMONSTRATION. 107 
 
 Sekoletu receives tribute from a great number of tribes 
 In corn or dura, groundnuts, hoes, spears, honey, canoes, 
 paddlos, wooden vessels, tobacco, mutokuane, (Cannabis sa- 
 liva,') various wild fruits, (dried,) prepared skins, and ivory. 
 When these articles are brought into the kotla, Sekelota 
 has the honor of dividing them among the loungers who 
 usually congregate there. A small portion only is reserveJ 
 for himself. The ivory belongs nominally to him too, but 
 this is simply a way of making a fair distribution of the 
 profits. The chief sells it only with the approbation of his 
 sounsellors, and the proceeds are distributed in open day 
 &mong the people as before. Ho has the choice of every 
 thing ; but, if ho is not more liberal to others than to him- 
 self, ho loses in popularity. I have known instances in this 
 and other tribes in which individuals aggrieved, because 
 they had been overlooked, fled to other chiefs. One discon- 
 tented person, having fled to Lcehulatebe, was encouraged 
 to go to a village of the Bapalleng, on the river Cho or Tso 
 and abstracted the ti'Ibute of ivory thence which ought to 
 have come to Sekclctu. This theft enraged the whole ol 
 the Makololo, because they all felt it to b«s a personal loss 
 Some of Lechulatebo's people having come on a visit to 
 Linyanti, a demonstration was made, in which about five 
 hundi-ed Makololo, armed, went through a mimic fight ; the 
 principal warriors pointed their spears toward the lake 
 where Lcehulatebe lives, and every thrust in that direction 
 was answered by all with the shout, " 1166 !" while every 
 stab on the ground drew out a simultaneous " Huzz !" On 
 these occasions all capable of bearing arms, even the old, 
 must turn out at the call. In the time of Sebituane, any 
 one remaining in his house was searched for and killed 
 without mercy. 
 
 This offence of Lcehulatebe was aggravated by repeti- 
 tion, and by a song sung in his town accompanying the 
 dances, which manifested joy at the death of Sebituane. 
 He had enjoined his people to live in peace with those at 
 the lake, and Sekeletu felt disposed to follow his advice ; 
 
108 IiEOHULATEBE'S provooationb 
 
 but Lechulatebo nad now got possession of fire-arms, and 
 considered himself more than a match for the Makolola 
 His father had been dispossessed of many cattle by Sebi- 
 tuane; and, as forgiveness is not considered among the 
 virtues by the heathen, Lcchulatebe thought he had a 
 right to recover what he could. As I had a good deal of 
 influence with the Makololo, I persuaded them that, before 
 they could have peace, they must resolve to give the same 
 blessing to others, and they never could do that without 
 forgiving and forgetting ancient feuds. It is hard to make 
 them feel that shedding of human blood is a great crime; 
 they must be conscious that it is wrong, but, having been 
 accustomed to bloodshed from infancy, they are remarkably 
 callous to the enormity of the crime of destroying human 
 Ufe. 
 
 I sent a message at the same time to Lcchulatebe, advising 
 him to give up the course he had adopted, and especially 
 the song; because, though Sebituane was dead, the arms 
 with which ho had fought were still alive and strong. 
 
 Sokeletu, in order to follow up his father's instructions 
 and promote peace, sent ten cows to Lechulatebo to be ex- 
 changed for sheep ; these animals thrive well in a bushy 
 country like that around the lake, but will scarcely live in 
 the flat prairies between the network of waters north of 
 the Chobc. The men who toojs; the cows carried a number 
 of hoes to purchase goats besides. Lechulatebo took the 
 cows and sent back an equal number of sheep. Now, ac- 
 cording to the relative value of sheep and cows in these 
 parts, he ought to have sent sixty or seventy. 
 
 One of the men who had hoes was trying to purchase in 
 a village without formal leave from Lcchulatebe; this chief 
 punished him by making him sit some hours on the broiling 
 hot sand, (at least 130°.) This further offence put a stop to 
 amicable relations between the two tribes altogether. It 
 was a case in which a very small tribe, commanded by a 
 weak and foolish chief, had got possesBion of fire-arms, and 
 felt conscious of ability to cope with & numerous and wai> 
 
ANT-niLLB. lOi 
 
 hko race. Such cases are the only ones in which the pos- 
 session of firo-arniB does evil. The universal effect of the dif- 
 fiision of the more potent instruments of warfare in Africa 
 IB the same as among ourselves. Fire-arms render wars less 
 frequent and less bloody. It is indeed exceedingly rare to 
 hoar of two tribes having guns going to war with each other; 
 and, as nearly all the feuds, in the south at least, have been 
 about cattle, the risk which must bo incurred from long 
 shots generally proves a preventive to the foray. 
 
 The Makololo were prevailed upon to keep the poaca 
 during my residence with them, but it was easy to per- 
 ceive that public opinion was against sparing a tribe of 
 Hechuanas for whom the Makololo entertained the most 
 sovereign contempt. The young men would remark, 
 •'Lochulatebo is herding our cows for us; lot us only go, 
 »e shall 'lift' the price of them in sheep," &c. 
 
 CHAPTEE XI. 
 
 DR. LIVINGSTONE LEAVES LINYANTI. 
 
 Having waited a month at Linyanti, (lat. 18° 17' 20' S., 
 long. 23° 50' 9" E.,) we again departed, for the purpose of 
 ascending the river from Sesheke, (lat. 17° 31' 38" S., long 
 25° 13' E.) To the Barotse country, the capital of which 
 is Nariele or Nalielc, (lat. 15° 24' 17" S., long. 23° 5' 54" B.,) 
 [ went in company with Sc'reletu and about one hundred 
 and sixty attendants. "We had most of the young men 
 with us, and many of the undcr-chicfs besides. The country 
 between Linyanti and Sesheke is perfectly flat, except 
 patches elevated only a few feet above the surrounding 
 level. There are also many mounds where the gigantic 
 ant-hills of the country have been situated or still appear: 
 these mounds are evidently the work of the termites. No 
 v^e who has not seen their gigantic structures can fancy 
 
 10 
 
lie THE CHIEF B QUARD 
 
 tho industry of these little laborers; they seem tc impait 
 fertility to tho soil which has oneo passed through their 
 months, for the Makololo find the sides of. ant-hiUs the 
 choice spots for rearing early maize, tobacco, or any thing 
 on which they wish to bestow especial care. We had the 
 Chobe on our right, with its scores of miles of reed occupy 
 ing the" horizon there. It was pleasant to look back on the 
 long extended lino of our attendants, as it twisted and bent 
 according tothe curves of tho footpath, or in and out behind 
 the mounds, tho ostrich-feathers of the men waving in tho 
 wind. Some had the white ends of ox-tails on their heads, 
 hussar fashion, and others great bunches of black ostrich- 
 feathers, or caps made of lions' manes. Some wore red 
 tunics, or various-colored prints which the chief had bought 
 from Fleming ; tho common men carried burdens; the gen- 
 tlemen waUced with a small club of rhinoceros-horn in their 
 hands, and had servants to carry their shields; while the 
 "Machaka," battle-axe men, carried their own, and were 
 liable at any time to be sent off a hundred miles on an 
 errand, and expected to run all tho way. 
 
 Sekeletu is always accompanied by his own Mopato, a 
 number of young men of his own ago. When he sits down 
 they crowd around him ; those who are nearest cat out of 
 the same dish, for the Makololo chiefs pride themselves on 
 eating with their people. Ho eats a little, then beckons 
 his neighbors to partake. Wlion they have done so, ho 
 perhaps beckons to some one at a distance to take a share ; 
 that person starts forward, seizes tho pot, and removes it 
 to his own companions. The comrades of Sekeletu, wish 
 ing to imitate him in riding on my old horse, leaped on the 
 backs of a number of half-broken Batoka oxen as they ran ; 
 but, having neither saddle nor bridle, the number of tumbles 
 thoy mot with was a source of much amusement to the 
 rest. 
 
 When we arrived at any village, the women all turned 
 out to luUiloo their chief. Their shnll voices, to which 
 they give a tremulous sound by a quick motion of th.- 
 
BEOEPTION AT VULAGES. Ill 
 
 tongue, poal forth, "Great lion!" "Great chief!" "Sloop, 
 my lord!" &c. The men utter similar salutations; and 
 Bokolotu receives all with becoming indifference. After a 
 few minutes' conversation and telling the news, the head 
 man of the village, who is almost always a Makololo, rises 
 and brings forth a number of large pots of beer. Cala- 
 bashes, heing used as drinking-cups, are handed round, and 
 aa many as can partake of the beverage do so, grasping 
 the vessels so eagerly that they are in danger of being 
 broken. 
 
 They bring forth also large pots and bowls of thick milk; 
 some contain six or eight gallons; and each of tneso, as 
 well as of the beer, is given to a particular person, who has 
 the power to divide it with whom he pleases. The head- 
 man of any section of the tribe is generally selected for 
 this office. Spoons not being generally in fashion, the milk 
 is conveyed to the mouth with the hand. I often presented 
 my friends with iron spoons, and it was curious to observe 
 how the habit of hand-eating prevailed, though they were 
 delighted with the spoons. Thev lifted out a little mth 
 the utensil, then put it on the Ictt band, and ate it out ol 
 that. 
 
 As the Makololo have great abundance of cattle, and the 
 chief is expected to feed all who accompany him, ho cither 
 selects an ox or two of his own from the numerous cattle- 
 stations that he possesses at different spots all over the 
 eouutry, or is presented by the head-men of the villages 
 he visits with as many as he needs, by way of tribute. The 
 animals are killed by a thrust from a small javelin in the 
 region of the heart, the wound being purposely small in 
 order to avoid any loss of blood, whicl: , with the internal 
 parts, are the perquisites of the men who perform the work 
 of tho butcher; hence all are eager to render service in 
 that lino. Bach tribe has its own way of cutting up and 
 distributing an animal. Among the Makololo the bump 
 and ribs belong to the chief; among tho Bakwains the 
 breast is his perquisite. After the oxen are cut up, the dif 
 
112 SOCIAL MODE 01' EATING. 
 
 feronl jofHts are placed before Sekeletu, and he apportions 
 them among the gentlemen of the party. The whole is 
 rapidly divided by thoir attendants, cut into long strips, 
 and so many of these are thrown into the fires at once that 
 they are nearly put out. Half broiled and burning hot, 
 the moat is quickly handed round ; every one gets a mouth- 
 fdl, but no one except the chief has time to masticate. It 
 IB not the enjoyment of eating they aim at, but to get as 
 ranch of the food into the stomach as possible during the 
 short time the others are cramming as well as themselves, 
 for no one can eat more than a mouthful after the others 
 have finished. They are eminently gregarious in their 
 eating; and, as they despise any one who eats alone, I 
 always poured out two cups of coffee at my own meals, so 
 that the chief, or some one of the principal men, might 
 partake along with me. They all soon become very fond 
 of coffee; and, indeed, some of the tribes attribute greater 
 fecundity to the daily use of this beverage. They were all 
 well acquainted with the sugarcane, as they cultivate it 
 in the Barotso country, but knew nothing of the method 
 of extracting the sugar from it. They use the cane only 
 for chewing. Sekeletu, relishing the sweet coffee and bis- 
 cuits, of which I then had a store, said "he knew my heart 
 loved him by finding his own heart warming to my food." 
 He had been visited during my absence at the Cape by 
 some traders and Griquas, and "their coffee did not taste 
 half 80 nice as mine, because they loved his ivory and not 
 _ himself." This was certainly an original mode of dis- 
 cerning character. 
 
 Sekeletu and I had each a little gipsy-tent in which to 
 sleep. The Makololo huts are generally clean, while those 
 of the Makalaka are infested with vermin. The cleanli- 
 ness of the former is owing to the habit of frequently 
 •mearing the floors with a plaster composed of cow-dung 
 Rnd earth. If we slept in the tent in some villages, the 
 mice ran ovor our faces and disturbed our sleep, or hungry 
 prowling dogs would eat our shoos and leave only the 
 
MAKOLOLO HUT8. lit 
 
 soloB. Whon thoy were guilty of this and other mlBde- 
 moanors, wo got the loan of a hut. The best sort of Ma- 
 kololo huts consist of three circular walls, with small holoit 
 R8 doors, each similar to that in a dog-house; and it is 
 nooossary to bend down the body to get in, even when on 
 all-fours. The roof is formed of reeds or straight bticks, 
 in shape like a Chinaman's hat, bound firmly together with 
 circular bands, which are lashed with the strong inner 
 bark of the mimosa-tree. Whon all prepared except the 
 thatch, it is lifted on to the circular wall, the rim resting 
 on a circle of poles, between each of which the third wall 
 is built. The roof is thatched with fine grass, and. sewed 
 with the same material as the lashings ; and, as it projects 
 far beyond the walls, and reaches within four feet of the 
 ground, the shade is the best to be found in the country. 
 These huts are very cool in the hottest day, but are close 
 and deficient in ventilation by night. 
 
 The bed is a mat made of rushes sewn together with 
 twine ; the hip-bone soon becomes sore on the hard flat 
 surface, as we are not allowed to make a hole in the floor 
 to receive the prominent part called trochanter by ana- 
 tomists, as we do when sleeping on grass or sand. 
 
 Our course at this time led us to a part above Scsheke, 
 called Katonga, where there is a village belonging to a 
 Bashubia man named Sckhosi, — latitude 17° 29' 13", longi- 
 tude 24° 33'. The river here is somewhat broader than at 
 Sesheko, and certainly not less than six hundred yards 
 It flows somewhat slowly in the first part of its eastern 
 oonrse. When the canooe came from Sekhosi to take na 
 over, one of the comrades of Sebituane rose, and, looking 
 to Sekeletu, called out, ' ' The elders of a host always take 
 tho lead in an attack." This was understood at once; and 
 Sekeletu, with all the young men, were obliged to give the 
 elders the precedence, and remain on the southern bank 
 and see that all went orderly into the canoes. It took a 
 considerable time to ferry over the whole of our large 
 party, as, even with quick paddling, from six to eight 
 
114 THE LTIEAMBTE. 
 
 minutes were spent in the mere passage from ban& to 
 bank. 
 
 Several days were spent in collecting canoes from dif- 
 ferent villages on the river, which wo now learned is called 
 by iho whole of \\xo Barotse the Liambai or Lccambyo. 
 This we could not ascertain on our first visit, and, conse- 
 quently, called the r.Ver after the town "Seshcke." Thii 
 term Seshcke means "white sand-banks,'' many of which 
 exist at this part. There is another village in the valley 
 of the Barotse likewise called Seshcke, and for the same 
 reason; but the term Lceambye means " the large river," 
 or thd river par excellence. Luambeji, Luambesi, Ambezi, 
 Ojimbesi, and Zambesi, &c., are names applied to it at dif- 
 ferent parts of its course, according to the dialect spoken, 
 and all possess a similar signification, and express the na- 
 tive idea of this magnificent stream being the main drain 
 of the country. 
 
 In order to assist in the support of our large party, and 
 at the same time to see the adjacent country, I went 
 several times, during our stay, to the north of the village 
 for game The country is covered with clumps of beauti- 
 ful trees, among which fine open glades stretch away in 
 every direction ; when the river is in flood these are inun- 
 dated, but the tree-covered elevated spots are much more 
 numerous here than in the country between the Chobe iand 
 the Lceambye. The soil is dark loam, as it is everywhere 
 on spots reached by the inundation, while among the trees 
 it is sandy, and not covered so densely with grass as else- 
 where. A sandy ridge covered with trees, running parallel 
 to and about eight miles from the river, is the limit of the 
 inundation on the north ; there are largo tracts of this 
 sandy forest in that direction, till you come to other dis- 
 tricts of alluvial soi! and fewer trees. The latter soil is 
 always found in the vicinity of rivers which either now 
 overflow their banks annually or formerly did so. The 
 people enjoy rain in sufficient quantity to raise very larg« 
 supplies of grain and groundnuts. 
 
AN SLANC BHOT. 115 
 
 Great numbers of buffaloes, zebras, tsessobes, tahactsi, 
 and eland, or pohu, grazed undisturbed on these plains, bo 
 that very httle exertion was required to secure a fair sup- 
 ply of meat for the party during the nccebdary delay. 
 Hunting on foot, as all those who have engaged in it in 
 this country will at once admit, is very hard work Indeed, 
 The heat of the sun by day is so great, even in winter, as 
 it now was, that, had there been any one on whom I could 
 have thrown the task, he would have been most welcome 
 to all the sport the toil is supposed to impart. But the 
 Makclolo shot so badly, that, in order to save my powder, 
 I was obliged to go myself. 
 
 Wo shot a beautiful cow-eland, standing in the shade of 
 a fine tree. It was evident that she had lately had hei 
 calf killed by a lion, for there were five long deep scratches 
 on both sides of her hind-quarters, as if she had run to the 
 rescue of her calf, and the lion, leaving it, had attacked 
 herself, but was unable to pull her down. When lying on 
 the ground, the milk flowing from the large udder showed 
 that she must have been seeking the shade, from the dis- 
 tress its non-removal in the natural manner caused. She 
 was a beautiful creature, and Lobeole, a Makololo gentle- 
 man who accompanied me, speaking in reference to its size 
 and beauty, said, "Jesus ought to have given us these in- 
 stead of cattle." It was a now, undescribed variety of this 
 splendid antelope. It was marked with narrow white 
 bands across the body, exactly like those of the koodoo, 
 and had a black patch of more than a hand breadth on the 
 oater side of the forearm. 
 
116 A80ENT or THX LEXAMBTK. 
 
 CHAPTEE XII. 
 
 DB. LiyiII«ST0N2 ASOENDS THE LEEAMBYE, AND DETEBM1RK8 
 TO OPEN A COMMUNICATION WITH THE WEST COAST 01 
 AFRICA. 
 
 BLavinq at last procured a sufficient number of canoes, 
 we began to ascend the river. I had the choice of th« 
 whole fleet, and selected the best, though not the largest; 
 it was thirty-four feet long by twenty inches wide. I had 
 six paddlers, and the larger canoe of Sekeletu had ten. 
 They stand upright, and keep the stroke with great pre- 
 cision, though thoy change from side to side as the course 
 demands. The men at the head and stem are selected troxa 
 the strongest and most expert of the whole. The canoes, 
 being flat-bottomed, can go into very shallow water; and 
 whenever the men can feel the bottom thoy use the paddles, 
 which are about eight feet long, as poles to punt with. 
 Our fleet consisted of thirty-three canoes, and about ono 
 hundred and sixty men. It was beautiful to see then 
 skimming along so quickly and keeping the time so well. 
 On land the Makalala fear the Makololo; on water the 
 Makololo fear them, and cai.not prevent them from racing 
 with each other, dashing along at the top of their speed, 
 and placing their masters' lives in danger. In the event 
 of a capsize, many of the Makololo would sink like stones. 
 A case of this kind happened on the first day of our voyage 
 up. The wind, blowing generally from the cast, raises very 
 large waves on the Leeambyo. An old doctor of the Mako- 
 lolo had his canoe filled by one of these waves, and, being 
 anablo to swim, was lost. The Barotse who were in the 
 canoe with him saved themselves by swimming, and were 
 afraid of being punished with death in the evening for rot 
 saving the doctor as well. Had he been a man of more 
 influence, they certainly would have suffered death. 
 
ISLANDS — THE BANTETl. ill 
 
 We proceeded rapidly up the river, snd I felt llie plea- 
 sure of looking on lands which had never been seen by a 
 Bui-opean before. The river is, indeed, a magnificent one, 
 often more than a mile broad, and adorned with many 
 islands of from three to five miles in length. Both islands 
 and banks are covered with forests, and most of the trees 
 on the brink of the water send down roots from theii 
 branches like the banian, or liHcus Indica. The islands at 
 a little distance seem great rounded masses of sylvan vege- 
 tation reclining on the bosom of the glorious stream. The 
 beauty of the scenery of some of the islands is greatly in- 
 creased by the date-palm, with its gracefully-curved fronds 
 and refreshing light-green color, near the bottom of the 
 picture, and the lofty palmyra towering far above, and 
 casting its ffeathery foliage against a cloudless sky. It 
 being winter, we had the strange coloring on the banks 
 which many parts of African landscape assume. The 
 country adjacent to the river is rocky and undulating, 
 abounding in elephants and all other large game, except 
 leches and nakongs, which seem generally to avoid stony 
 ground. The soil is of a reddish color, ard very fertile, as 
 is attested by the great quantity of grain raised annually 
 by the Banyeti. A great many villages of this poor and 
 very industrious people are situated on both banks of the 
 river: they are expert hunters of the hippopotami and 
 other animals, and very proficient in the manufacture of 
 articles of wood and iron. The whole of this part of the 
 country being infesied with the tsetse, they are unable to 
 rear domestic animals. This may have led to their skill 
 in handicraft works. Some make large wooden veeseli 
 with vBTy neat lids, and wooden bowls of all sizes; and, 
 sipce the idea of sitting on stools has entered the Makololo 
 011 n i, they have shewn great taste in the different forme 
 given tc the legs of these pieces of furniture 
 
 Other Banyeti, or Manyeti, as they are called, make neat 
 and strong baskets of the split roots of a certain tree, 
 while others excel in pottery and iron. I cannot find that 
 
118 EtAPIDS AND FALLS. 
 
 thoy have ever been warlike. Indeed, the wars in the 
 centre of the countiy, where no slave-trade existed, have 
 seldom been about any thing else but cattle. So well 
 known is this, that several tribes refu.so to keep cattle, 
 because they tempt their enemies to oome and steal 
 Nevertheless, they have no objection to eat them when 
 offered, and their country admits of being well stocked. 1 
 have heard of but one war having occurred from another 
 caaso. Three brothers, Barolongs, fought for the possession 
 of a woman who was considered worth a battle, and the 
 tribe has remained permanently divided ever since. 
 
 From the bend up to the north, called Katima-mololo, (1 
 quenched fire,) the bed of the river is rocky, and the 
 stream runs fast, forming a succession of rapids and cata- 
 racts, -vyhich prevent continuou"* navigation when th* 
 water is low. The rapids are not visible when the river 
 is full, but the cataracts of Nambwe, Bombwe, an<l Eale 
 must always be dangerous. The fall &i each of these is 
 between four and six feet. But the falls of Gonyo present 
 a mnch more serious obstacle. There we were obliged to 
 take the canoes out of the water, and carry them more 
 than a mile by land. The fall is about thirty feet. Tho 
 main body of water, which comes over the ledge of rock 
 when the river is low, is collected into a space seventy or 
 eighty yards wide before it takes the leap, and, a mass of 
 rock being thrust forward against the roaring torrent, a 
 loud sound is produced. 
 
 As we passed up the river, the different villages of Ban- 
 yeta turned out to present Sokeletn with food and skins, as 
 their tribute. One large village is placed at Gonyo, the 
 Inhabitants of which are required tO' assist the Makololo 
 to carry their canoes past the falls. The tsetse here 
 lighted on us even in the middle of the stream. This 
 we crossed repeatedly, in order to make short cuts at 
 bonds of the river. The course is, howevel*, remarkably 
 straight among the rocks; and here the river is shallow 
 on account of the great bieadth of surface which it ooven. 
 
NALIELB— BANTUEU. 118 
 
 Wnon wo came to about 16° 16' S. latitude, tho high 
 wooded banks seemed to leave tho river, and no more 
 tsetse appeared. 
 
 This visit was the first Sekolotu had made to thoee parts 
 since he attained tho chieftainship. Those who had taken 
 part with Mpepe were consequently in great teiror. 
 When we came to tho town of Mpope's father, as ho and 
 another man had counselled Mamochisano to put Sckolctu 
 to death and marry Mpepe, tho two wore led forth and 
 tossed into the river. Nokuano was again one of the 
 executioners. When I remonstrated against human blood 
 being shed in the off-hand way in which they were pro- 
 ceeding, tho counsellors justified their acts by the evidence 
 given by Mamochisano, and calmly added, "You see w© 
 are still Boers : wo are not yet taught." 
 
 Naliele, the capital of the Barotse, is built on a mound 
 which was constructed artificially by Santuru, and was his 
 storehouse for grain. His own capital stood ^about five 
 hundred yards to the south of that, in what is now the 
 bed of tho river. All that remains of the largest mound 
 in the valley are a few cubic yards of earth, to erect which 
 cost the whole of the people of Santuru the labor of many 
 years. Tho same thing has happened to another ancient 
 site of a town*, Linangelo, also on the letl bank, it would 
 seem, therefore, that the river in this part of tho valley 
 must be wearing eastward. 
 
 Santuru, at whose ancient granary we are staying, was 
 a great hunter, and very fond of taming wild animals. 
 His people, aware of his taste, brought to him every young 
 antelope they could catch, and, among other things, two 
 young hippopotami. These animals gambolled in tho river 
 by day, but never failed to remember to come up to Naliele 
 for their suppers of milk and meal. They were the wonder 
 of the country, till a stranger, happening to come to visit 
 Bantam, saw {hem reclining in the sun, and speared one 
 of tnom, on the supposition that it was wild. Tho samjB 
 Uilucky accident happened to one of the cats 1 had brought 
 
120 BABOTSE BRAS. 
 
 to Sekeleiu. A. stranger, seeing an animal he had never 
 viewed before, killed it, and brought the trophy to the 
 chief, thinking that he had made a very remarkable dis- 
 covery : we thereby lost the breed of cats, of which from 
 the swarms of mice, we stood in great need. 
 
 On making inquiries to ascertain whether Santtmi, the 
 Ifoloiana, had ever been visited by white men, I could find 
 no vestige of any such visit ; there is no evidence of any 
 of Santuru's people having ever seen a white man before 
 the arrival of Mr. Oswell and myself in 1851. The people 
 have, it is true, no written records ; but any remarkable 
 event here is commemorated in names, as was observed by 
 Park to be the case in the countries he traversed. The 
 year of our arrival is dignified by the name of the year 
 when the white men came, or of Sobituane's death ; but 
 they prefer the former, as they avoid, if possible, any direct 
 reference to the departed. After my wife's first visit, great^ 
 numbers of children were named Ma-Eobert, or mother of 
 Robert, her eldest child; others were named Gun, Horse, 
 Wagon, Monare, Jesus, &c. ; but though our names, and 
 those of the native Portuguese who came in 1853, were 
 adopted, there is not a trace of any thing of the sort having 
 happened previously among the Barotse: the visit of a 
 white man is such a remarkable event, that, had any taken 
 place during the last throe hundred years, there must have 
 remained some tradition of it; 
 
 The to wo or mound of Santuru's mother was shown to 
 me : this was the first symptom of an altered state of feel- 
 ing with regard to the female sex that I had observed. 
 There are few or no cases of women being elevated to the 
 Headships of towns farther south. The Barotse also showed 
 some reUcs of their chief, which evinced a greater amount 
 of the religious feeling than I had ever known displayed 
 among Beohuanas. His more recent capital, Lilonda, built, 
 too, on an artificial mound, is covered with different kinds 
 of trees, transplanted when young by himself. They form 
 a grove on the e^td of the mound, in which are to be seen 
 
KELIOIOtra FEELING. 121 
 
 variouN instruments of iron just in the state he loft them. 
 One looks like the guard of a basket-hilted swcrd; another 
 has an upright stem of the metal, on which are placed 
 branches worked at the ends into miniature axes, hoes, and 
 epears; on these he was accustomed to present o£forings, 
 according as ho desired favors to be conferred in undertak- 
 ing hewing, agriculture, or fighting. The people still living 
 there, in charge of these articles, were- supported by presents 
 from the chief; and the Makololo sometimes follow the ex- 
 ample. This was the nearest approach to a priuHthood 1 
 met. When I asked them to part with one of these relics, 
 they replied, " Oh, no : he refuses." " Who refuses 'I" " San- 
 turu," was their reply, showing their belief in a future state 
 of existence. After explaining to them, as I always did 
 when opportunity offered, the nature of true woi-ship, and 
 praying with them in the simple form which needs no 
 offering from the worshipper except that of the heart, and 
 planting some fruit-tree seeds in the grove, we departed. 
 
 Another incident, which occurred at the confluence of 
 the Leeba and Leeambye, may be mentioned here, as show- 
 ing a more vivid perception of the existence of spiritual 
 beings, and greater proneness to worship, than among the 
 Bechuanas. Having taken lunar observations in the mom- 
 ing, I was waiting for a meridian altitude of the sun for 
 the latitude; my chief boatman was sitting by, in order to 
 pack up the instruments as soon as I had finished ; there 
 was a large halo, about 20° in diameter, round the sun; 
 thinking that the humidity of the atmosphere, which this 
 indicated, might betoken rain, I asked him if his experience 
 did not lead him to the same view. " Oh, no," replied he; 
 " it is the Barimo, [gods or departed spirits,] who have 
 called a picho ; don't you see they have the Lord [sun] in 
 the centre ?" 
 
 While still at Naliele, I walked out to Katongo, (lat. 15° 
 
 16^ 33",) on the ridge which bounds the valley of the Barotse 
 
 in that direction, and found it covered with trees. It is 
 
 only the commencement of the lands which are nevei 
 
 11 
 
122 
 
 THE HEBALD. 
 
 innndatcd; their gcntlo rise from the dead level of the 
 valley much resembles the edge of the Desert in the valley 
 of the Nile. 
 
 I imagined the slight elevation (Katongo) might be 
 healthy, but was informed that no part of this region ii 
 exempt from fever. When the waters begin to retire from 
 this valley, such masses of decayed vegetation and mud 
 are exposed to the torrid sun that oven the natives suffer 
 severely from attacks of fever. The grass is so rank in 
 its growth that one cannot see the black alluvial soil of 
 the bottom of this periodical lake. Even when the grass 
 falls down in winter, or is "laid" by its own weight, one is 
 obliged to lift the feet so high, to avoid being tripped up 
 by it, as to make walking excessively fatiguing. Young 
 leches are hidden beneath it by their dams; and the Mako- 
 lolo youth complain of being unable to run in the Barotso 
 land on this account. There was evidently no healthy 
 spot in this quarter ; and, the current of the river being 
 about four and a half miles per hour, (one hundred yards 
 in fiixty seconds,) I imagined wo might find what we needed 
 in the higher lands, from which the river seemed to come. 
 I resolved, therefore, to go to the utmost limits of the Ba- 
 rotso country before coming to a final conclusion. Katongo 
 was the best place we had seen ; but, in order to accomplish 
 a complete examination, I left Sekeletn at Nalielo, and 
 ascended the river. Ho furnished me with men, besides 
 my rowers, and among the rest a herald, that I might 
 enter his villages in what is considered a dignified manner. 
 This, it was supposed, would be effected by the herald 
 shouting out, at the top of his voice, " Here comes the lord, 
 the groat lion;" the latter phrase being "tau e t6na," 
 which, in his imperfect way of pronunciation, became 
 "gau o t5na," and so like "the great sow" that I could not 
 receive the honor with becoming gravity, and had to 
 eatreat him, much to the annoyance of my party, to b« 
 silent. 
 
 In our ascent we visited a number of Makololo villagei^ 
 
THE LEEAMBTE AND LOETI 123 
 
 »nd wore always received with a hearty welcome, as mes- 
 Bcnjrers to them of peace, which they term "sleep." They 
 behave well in public meetings, even on the first occasion 
 of attendance, probably from the habit of commanding thft 
 Makalaka, crowds of whom swarm in every village, and 
 whom the Makololo women seem to consider as especially 
 under their charge. 
 
 The river presents the same appearance of low banke 
 without trees us we have remarked it had after we came 
 to 16° 16', until we arrive at Libonta, (14° 59' S. lat.) 
 Twenty miles beyond that, we find forests down to the 
 water's edge, and tsetse. Here I might have turned back, 
 as no locality can be inhabited by Europeans where that 
 scourge exists; but, hearing that we were not far from 
 the confluence of the river of Ldnda or Lunda, named Leeba 
 or Loiba, and the chie& of that country being reported to 
 be friendly to strangers, and therefore likely to b.e of ase 
 to me on my return from the west coast, I stiU pushed on 
 to latitude 14° 11' 2" S. There the Leoambye assumes the 
 pamo Kabompo, and seems to be coming from the east. It 
 in a fine large river, about three hundred yards wide, and 
 the Lceba two hundred and fifty. The Loeti, a branch of 
 which is called Langebongo, comes from W.N.W., through 
 a level grassy plain named Mango ; it is about one hundred 
 yards wide, and enters the Leeambye from the west ; the 
 waters of the Loeti are of a light color, and those of the 
 Leeba of a dark mossy hue. After the Loeti joins the 
 Leeambye, the different-colored waters flow side by side foi 
 some distance unmixed. 
 
 Before reaching the Loeti, we came to a number of people 
 from the Lobalo region, hunting hippopotami. They fled 
 precipitately as soon as they saw the Makololo, leaving 
 their canoes and all their utensils and clothing. My own 
 Makalaka, who were accustomed to plunder wherever they 
 wont, rushed after them like furies, totally regardless of 
 cay shouting. As this proceeding would have destroyed 
 «xy character entirely <it Lobale, I. took my stand on a 
 
124 NO HEALTHT LOO&TION 
 
 commanding position as they returned, and forced them to 
 lay down all the plunder on a sand-bank, and leave it there 
 for its lawfhl owners. 
 
 It was now quite evident that no healthy location could 
 be obtained in which the Makololo would be allowed to live 
 in peace. 1 nad thus a fair excuse, if I had chosen to avail 
 myself of it, of coming home and saying that the " door 
 was shut," because the Lord's time had not yet come. But 
 believing that it was my duty to devote some portion 'of 
 my life to these (to me at least) very confiding and affeo- 
 tionate Makololo, I resolved to follow out the second part 
 of my plan, though I had failed in accomplishing the first. 
 The Leeba seemed to come from the N. and by W., or 
 N.N.W. ; so, having an old Portuguese map, which pointed 
 out the Coanza as rising from the middle of the continent 
 in 9° S. lat., 1 thought it probable that, when we had as- 
 cended the Leeba (from 14° 11') two or three degrees, we 
 should then be within one hundred and twenty miles of 
 the Coanza, and find no difficulty in following it down to 
 the coast near Loanda. This was the logical deduction ; 
 but, as is the case with many a plausible theory, one of 
 the premises was decidedly defective. The Coanza, as we 
 afterward found, does not come from anywhere near the 
 centre of the country. 
 
 The numbers of large game above Libonta are prodigious, 
 and they proved remarkably tame. Eighty-one buffaloes 
 defiled in slow procession before our fire one evening, within 
 gunshot ; and herds of splendid elands stood by day, with- 
 out fear, at two hundred yards' distance. They were all of 
 the striped variety, and, with their fbrearm markings, largo 
 dewlaps, and sleek skins, were a beautiful sight to see. 
 The lions here roar much more than in the country near 
 the lake, Zouga, and Chobe. One evening we had a good 
 opportunity of hearing the utmost exertions the animal 
 can make in that line. We had made our beds on a large 
 Band-bank, and could be easily seen from all sides. A lion 
 on the opposite shore amused himself for hours by roaring 
 
tlONS — A&ABB. 12tt 
 
 M loudly as he ooald, putting, as ia usual in such oasoB, hii 
 month near the ground, to make the sound reverberate. 
 The river was too broad for a ball to reach him, bo wo lot 
 him enjoy himself, certain that he durst not have boon 
 guilty of tho impertinence in the Bushman country. 
 Wherever the game abounds, these animals exist in pro- 
 portionate numbers. Hero they wore very frequently seen, 
 and two of the largest I ever saw seemed about as tall oa 
 common donkeys; but the mane made thoir bodies appear 
 rather larger. 
 
 A party of Arabs from Zanzibar wore in the country at 
 thin time. Sekeletu had gone from Naliele to the town of 
 his mother before we arrived from the north, but left an ox 
 for our use, and instructions for us to follow him thither. 
 We came down a branch of the Leeambye called Marile, 
 which departs from the main river in latitude 15° 15'43"S. 
 and is a fine deep stream about sixty y.ards wide. It makes 
 the whole of the country around Naliele an island. When 
 sleeping at a village in the same latitude as Naliole town, 
 two of tho Arabs mentioned made their appearance. They 
 were quite as dark as the Makololo, but, having their beads 
 shaved, 1 could not compare their hair with, that of the 
 inhabitants of the country. When wo were about to leave, 
 they came to bid adieu; but I asked them to stay and 
 help us to eat our ox. As they had scruples about eating 
 an animal not blooded in their own way, I gained their 
 good-will by saying I was quite of their opinion as to 
 getting quit of the blood, and gave them two legs of an 
 animal slaughtered by themselves. They professed the 
 greatest detestation of tho Portuguese, " because they eat 
 pigs;" and disliked the English, " because they thrash them 
 for selling slaves." I was silent about pork ; though, had 
 they seen me at a hippopotamus two days afterward, they 
 would have set me down as being as much a heretic as any 
 of that nation; but I ventured to tell them that 1 agreed 
 with the English, that it was better to let the children 
 grow up and comfort their mothers when they became old, 
 
126 TOWN or MA-SKKELETD 
 
 than to carry thorn away and soil thom acrosd the sea. 
 This thoy novor attempt to justify; "they want them only 
 to cultivate the land, and take care of thom as their chil- 
 dren." It is the same old story, justifying a monstrous 
 wrong on pretcneo of taking caro of those degraded por- 
 tions of humanity which cannot take caro of thcmsclTes; 
 doing evil that good may come. 
 
 Those Arabs, or Moors, could read and write their own 
 language readily; and, when speaking about our Savior, I 
 admired the boldness with which they informed me "that 
 Christ was a very good prophet, but Mohammed was far 
 greater." And with respect to thou loathing of pork, it 
 may have some foundation in their nature; for I have 
 known Bcchuanas who had no prejudice against the wila 
 animal, and ate the tame without scruple, yet, unconscious 
 of any cause of disgust, vomit it again. The Bechuanaa 
 south of tho lake have a prejudice against eating fish, and 
 allege a disgust to eating any thing like a serpent. This 
 may arise from tho remnants of serpent- worship floating in 
 their minds, as, in addition to this horror of eating such 
 animals, they sometimes render a sort of obeisance to 
 living serpents by clapping their hands to them, and re- 
 fuisng to destroy the reptiles ; but in tho case of the hog 
 thoy are conscious of no superstitious feeling. 
 
 Having parted with our Arab friends, we proceeded down 
 the Marile till we re-entered the Leeambye, and went to 
 tho town of Ma-Sokclotu (mother of Sekeletu,) opposite the 
 island of Loyola. Sekeletu had always supplied me most 
 liberally with food, and, as soon as I arrived, presented me 
 with a pot of boiled moat, while his mother handed mo a 
 largo jar of butter, of which they make groat quantities 
 for tho purpose of anointing their bodies. Ho had himselt 
 Bomotimcs felt tho benefit of my way of putting aside a 
 quantity of tho meat after a meal, and had now followed 
 my example by ordering somo to be kept for me. Accord- 
 ing to thoir habits, ovory particle of an ox is devoured at 
 one meal ; and as the chief cannot, without a deviation 
 
BEATHENI8M. 127 
 
 from their customs, eat alone, ho is often compelled tosuffor 
 Bovoroly from hunger before another meal is ready. We 
 boncoforth always worked into each other's hands by sav- 
 ing a little for each other; and when some of the sticklers 
 for use and custom grumbled, I advised them to eat like 
 men, and not like vultures. 
 
 As this was the first visit which Sckeletu had paid to this 
 part of his dominions, it was to many a soaton of great joy. 
 The head-men of each village presented oxen, milk, and 
 beer, more than the bordo which accompanied him could 
 devour, though their abilities in that lino are something 
 wonderful. The people usually show their joy and work 
 off their excitement in dances and songs. 
 
 As Sekolotu had been waiting for me at his mother's, we 
 left the town as soon as I arrived, and proceeded down the 
 river. Our speed with the stream was very great, for in 
 one day we went from Litofo to Gonyo, a distance of forty- 
 four miles of latitude ; and if we add to this the windings 
 of the river, in longitude the distance will not bo much less 
 than sixty geographical miles. At this rate wo soon 
 reached Scsheke, and then the town of Linyanti. 
 
 1 had been, during a nine weeks' tour, in closer contact 
 with heathenism than I had ever boon before; and though 
 all, including the chief, were as kind and attentive to mo 
 as possible, and there was no want of food, (oxon being 
 slaughtered daily, sometimes ten at a time, more than suf- 
 ficient for the wants of all,) yet to endure the dancing, 
 roaring, and singing, the jesting, anocdoivs, grumbling, 
 quarrelling, and murdering of these children of nature, 
 seemed more like a severe penance than any thing I had 
 before met with in the course of my missionary duties. I 
 took thence a moro intense disgust at heathenism than I 
 had before, and formed a greatly-elevated opinion of the 
 latent effects of missions in the south, among tribes which 
 are reported to have been as savage as the Makololo. The 
 indirect benefits which, to a casual observer, lie beneath the 
 surface and are inaoDreciable. in reference to the probable 
 
128 AKBANOIHKNTB fOB JOUBICKTS. 
 
 wide diffusion of Christianity at some fhtnre time, are 
 worth all the money and labor that have bnen exftended 
 to produce them. 
 
 CHAPTER XIU. 
 
 DB. liTVIWOaTONE SETS OUT ON THE EXPEDITION TO THB 
 
 WEST COAST. 
 
 LiNTANTi, September, 1853. — The object proposed to the 
 Mitkololo seemed so desirable that it was resolved to proceed 
 with it as soon as the cooling influence of the rains should 
 be felt in November. The longitude and latitude of Lin- 
 yanti (lat. 18° 17' 20" S., long. 23° 50' 9" E.) showed that 
 St. Philip de Benguola was much nearer to us than 
 Loanda; and I might have easily made arrangements 
 with the Mambari to allow me to accompany them as far 
 as Bihe, which is on the road to that port ; but it is so 
 undesirable to travel in a path once trodden by slave- 
 traders that I preferred to find out another line of march. 
 
 Accordingly, men were sent at my suggestion to examine 
 all the country to the west, to see it any belt of country 
 free from tsetse could be found to afford us an outlet. The 
 search was fruitless. The town and district of Linyanti 
 are s\irrounded by forests infested by this poisonous insect., 
 except at a few points, as that by which we entered at 
 Sanshnreh and another at Sesheke. But the lands both 
 east and west of the Barotse valley are free from this 
 insect-plague. There, however, the slave-trade had defiled 
 the path, and no one ought to follow in its wake unless 
 well armed. The Mambari had informed me that many 
 English lived at Loanda; so / prepared to go thither. The 
 prospect of meeting with countrymen seemed to orvt- 
 balance the toils of the longer march. 
 
A "PIOHO:" ITS RESULTS. 129 
 
 A "pioho"' was called to doliberato on the steps proposed 
 In these assemblies great freedom of speech is allowed* 
 and on this occasion one of the old diviners said, "Where 
 is he taking you to ? This white man is throwing yon 
 away. Your garments already smeU of blood." It is 
 curious to obsei-ve how much identity of character appears 
 (ill over the world. This man was a noted croaker. He 
 always dreamed something dreadftil in every expedition, 
 and was certain that an eclipse or comet betokened the 
 propriety of flight. But Sobituane formerly sot his visions 
 down to cowardice, and Sekoletu only laughed at him now. 
 The general voice was in my favor ; so a band of twenty 
 seven were appointed to accompany mo to the west- 
 Thoso men were not hired, but sent to enable me to 
 accomplish an object as much desired by the chief and 
 most of his people as by me. They were eager to obtain 
 free and profitable trade with white men. The prices 
 which the Cape merchants could give, after defraying the 
 groat expenses of a long journey hither, being very small, 
 made it scarce worth while for the natives to collect pro- 
 duce for that market ; and the Mambari, giving only a few 
 bits of print and baize for elephants' tusks worth more 
 pounds than they gave yards of cloth, had produced the 
 belief that trade with them was throwing ivory away. 
 The desire of the Makololo for direct trade with the sea- 
 coast coincided exactly with my own conviction that no 
 permanent elevation of a people can be effected without 
 commerce. Neither could there be a permanent mission 
 here, unless the missionaries should descend to the level of 
 the Makololo, for even at Kolobeng we found that traders 
 desianded three or four times the price of the articles we 
 needed, and expected us to be grateful to them besides for 
 letting us have them at all. 
 
 The three men whom 1 had brought from Knruman had 
 frequent relapses* of the fever; so, finding that instead of 
 serving me I had to wait on them, I decided that they 
 *hould return to the south with Fleming as soon as he had 
 
IKQ THI! L0S7 J0X7BNAI> 
 
 bnished his trading. I was then entirely dependent ob 
 my twenty-seven men, whom I might name ZambosianB, 
 for there wore two Makololo only, while the rest con 
 BiBted of Barotse, Batoka, Bashubia, and two of the Am- 
 bonda. 
 
 The fever had caused considerable weakness in my owb 
 frame, and a strange giddiness when I looked up suddenly 
 to any celestial object, for every thing seemed to rush 
 to the left, and if I did not catch hold of some object 
 1 fell heavily on the ground : something resembling a 
 gush of bile along the duct from the liver caused the 
 same fit to occur at night, whenever I turned suddenly 
 round. 
 
 The Makololo now put the question, " In the event of 
 your death, will not the white petiple blame us for having 
 allowed you to go away into an unhealthy, unknown 
 country of enemies?" 1 replied that none of my friends 
 would blame them, because I would leave a book with 
 Bekeletu, to be sent to Mr. Moffat in case I did not return, 
 which would explain to him all that had happened until 
 the time of my departure. The book was a volume of my 
 Journal; and, as I was detained longer than I expected at 
 Loanda, this book, with a letter, was delivered by Sekelotu 
 to a trader, and I have been unable to trace it. I regret 
 this now, as it contained valuable notes on the habits of 
 wild animals, and the request was made in the letter to 
 convey the volume to my family. The prospect of passing 
 away from this fair and beautiful world thus came before 
 me in a pretty plain, matter-of-fact form, and it did seem 
 a serious thing to leave wife and children, — to break up all 
 connection with earth and enter on an untried stato of 
 existence ; and I find myself in my journal pondering over 
 that fearfiil migration which lands us in eternity, wonder- 
 ivg whether an angol wiU soothe the fluttering soul, sadly 
 flurried as it must bo on entering the spirit-world, and 
 hoping that Jesus might speak but one word of peace, for 
 (hat would establish in the bosom an overhisting calm 
 
OUTriT POK JOURNEY 181 
 
 But, as 1 bad always believed that, if we servo God at all, 
 it ought to bo done in a manly way, I wrote to my 
 brother, commending our little girl to his caro, as I was 
 dotormined to " succeed or perish" in the attempt to open 
 up this part of Africa. The Boers, by taking possession 
 of all my goods, had saved mo the trouble of making a 
 will; and, considering tho light heart now loft in mj 
 3osom, and some faint efforts to perform tho duty of Chri*. 
 (ian fbrgivcQoss, 1 felt that it was bettor to be tho plun- 
 dered party than ono of the plunderers. 
 
 When I committed tho wagon and remaining goods to 
 the care of the Makololo, they took all the articles except 
 one box into their huts; and two warriors — Ponuane and 
 Mahale — brought forward each a fine heifer-calf. After 
 performing a number of warlike evolutions, thoy asked 
 the chief to witness the agreement made between them, 
 that whoever of the two should kill & Matebelo warrior 
 first, in defence of tho wagon, should possess both tho 
 calves. 
 
 I had throe muskets for my people, a rifle and a doublo- 
 barretled smooth-bore for myself; and, having seen such 
 groat abundance of game in my visit to the Lceba, I 
 imagined that I could easily supply the wants of my 
 party- Wishing also to avoid tho discouragement which 
 would naturally be felt on meeting any obstacles if my 
 companions wore obliged to carry heavy loads, I took only 
 a few biscuits, a few pounds of tea and sugar, and about 
 twenty of coffee, which, as tho Arabs find, though used ^ 
 without either milk or sugar, is a most refreshing beverage 
 after fatigue or exposure to tho sun. Wo carried one small 
 tin canister, about fifteen inches square, filled with spare 
 shirting, trousers, and shoos, to be used when we reached 
 civilized life, and others in a bag, which were oxpectod to 
 wear out on the way; another of the same size for medi- 
 cines; and a third for books, my stock being a Nautical 
 Almanac, Thomson's Logarithm Tables, and a Bible; a 
 fourth box contained a raasric lantern, which wo fomicj of 
 
182 oniriT — insteumbitm. 
 
 maoh U80. Tho sextant and artificial horizon, thormo- 
 motor, and compassoB woro carried apart. My ammani- 
 tion was diatribatod in portions through tho whole lug- 
 gago; so that, if an accident should befall ono part, we 
 could still have others to fall back upon. Our chief hopes 
 for food were upon that; but, in case of failure, I took 
 fibont twenty pounds of beads, worth forty shillings, which 
 still romainod in tho stock I brought from Cape Town, a 
 staall gypsy tent, just sufficient to sleep in, a sheep-skin 
 mantle as a blanket, and a horse-rug as a bed. As I had 
 always found that tho art of successful travel consisted in 
 taking as few "impediments" as possible, and not for- 
 getting to carry my wits about me, the outfit was rather 
 spare, and intended to be still more so when we should 
 oome to leave the canoes. Some would consider it inju- 
 dicious to adopt this plan ; but I had a secret conviction 
 that, if I did not succeed, it would not be for want of the 
 "knick-knacks" advertised as indispensable for travellers, 
 but from want of " pluck," or because a large array of 
 baggage excited the cupidity of the tribes through whose 
 country we wished to pass. 
 
 The instruments I earned, though few, were the best of 
 their kind. A sextant, by the famed makers Troughton 
 and Sims, of Fleet Street; a chronometer watch, with a 
 stop to the seconds-hand, — an admirable contrivance for 
 enabling a person to take the exact time of observations, 
 it was constructed by Dent, of the Strain- ;0l,) for tho 
 Boyal Geographical Society, and selectca 'or tho service 
 by the President, Admiral Smytho, to whoso judgment and 
 kindness I am in this and other matters deeply indebted. 
 It was pronounced by Mr. Maclear to equal most chrono- 
 meters in performance. For these excellent instruments I 
 have much pleasure in recording my obligations to my 
 good ftiond Colonel Steel, and at tho same time to Mr. 
 Macloar for much of my ability to use them. Besides 
 those, I had a thermometer by Dollond ; a compass from 
 the Capo Obsorvatciy, and a small pocket one in addition; 
 
BANKS or THK OHOBE. 188 
 
 a good small telescope with a stand capable of being 
 screwed into a tree. 
 
 11th of November, 1853. — ^Left the town of Linyanti, 
 accompanied by Sekeletu and his principal men, to embark 
 on the Chobe The chief came to the river in order to see 
 that all was right at parting. We crossed five branches 
 of the Chobe before reaching the main stream : this 
 ramification must be the reason why it appeared so 
 small to Mr. Oswell and myself in 1851. When all the 
 departing branches re-enter, it is a large, deep river. The 
 spot of embarkation was the identical island where wo met 
 Sebituane, first known as the island of Maunku, one of his 
 wives. The chief lent me his own canoe; and, as it was 
 broader than usual, I could turn about in it with ease. 
 
 The Chobe is much infested by hippopotami, and, as 
 certain elderly males are expelled the herd, they become 
 soured in their temper, and so misanthropic as to attack 
 every canoe that passes near them. 
 
 The course of the river we found to be extremely tor- 
 tuous ; so much so, indeed, as to carry us to all points of the 
 compass every dozen miles. Some of us walked Itom a bend 
 at the village of Moremi to another nearly due east of that 
 point in six hours, while the canoes, going at more than 
 double our speed, took twelve to accomplish the voyage 
 between the same two places. And though the river is 
 from thirteen to fifteen feet in depth at its lowest obD, and 
 broad enough to allow a steamer to ply upon it, the sud- 
 denness of the bondings would prevent navigation; but, 
 should the country ever become civilized, the Chobe would 
 be a convenient natural canal. We spent forty-two and a 
 half hours, paddling at the rate of five miles an honi, in 
 ooming from Linyanti to the confluence ; there we found a 
 dike of amygdaloid lying across the Loeambye. 
 
 The actual point of confluence of the Chobe and the 
 Leeambye is ill defined, on account of each dividing into 
 several branches as they inosculate ; but when the whole 
 body of water collects into one bed it is a goodly sight 
 
184 ADMINISTEATION OW .TUSTICB. 
 
 for one who has spent many years in the thirsty soath. 
 Standing on one bank, even the keen eye of the natives 
 cannot detect whether two large islands, a few miles oast 
 of the junction, are mainland or not. 
 
 After spending one night at the Makololo villago on 
 M-paria, we loft the Chobo, and, turning round, began to 
 ascond the Leeambye ; on the 19th of November we again 
 reached the town of Sosheke. It stands on the north bank 
 of the river, and contains a large population of Makalaka. 
 under Moriantsane, brother-in-law of Scbituane. There 
 are panics of various tribes here, assembled under theii 
 respective head-men, but a few Makololo rule over all. 
 Their sway, though essentially despotic, is considerably 
 modified by certain customs and laws. 
 
 The following circumstance, which happened hero whei 
 I was present with Sekelotu, shows that the simple modi 
 of punishment by forcing a criminal to work out a line did 
 not strike the Makololo mind until now. 
 
 A stranger, having visited Sesheko for the pui-pose of 
 bartei, was robbed by one of the Makalaka of most of his 
 goods. The thief, when caught, confessed the theft, and 
 that he had given the articles to a person who had removed 
 to a distance. The Makololo were much enraged at the 
 idea of their good name being compromised by this treat- 
 ment of a stranger. Their customary mode of punishing 
 a crime which causes much indignation is to throw the 
 criminal into the river j but, as this would not restore the 
 tost property, they were sorely puzzled how to act. The 
 oaso was referred to me, and I solved the difficulty by pay- 
 ing for the loss myself and sentencing the thief to work 
 out an equivalent with his hoe in a garden. This system 
 was immediately introduced, and thieves are now sen- 
 tenced to raise an amount of corn proportioned to theii 
 offences. Among the Bakwains, a woman who had stolen 
 from the garden of another was obliged to part with her 
 own entirely : it became the property of her whose field 
 van injured by the crwae. 
 
PUBLIC ADDRESSES 186 
 
 Thoro IB no stated day of rest in any part of this couiitry, 
 except the day after the appearance of the now moon ; and 
 the people then refrain only from going to their gardens. 
 A curious custom, not to be found among the Bechuanas, 
 prevails among the black tribes beyond them. They watch 
 most eagerly for the first glimpse of the now moon, and, 
 when they perceive the faint outline after the sun has set 
 deep in the west, they utter a loud shout of " Kua !" and 
 vociferate prayers to it. My men, for instance, called out, 
 "Let our journey with the white man be prosperous 1 Lot 
 our enemies perish, and the children of Nake become rich 1 
 May ho have plenty of meat on this journey I" &c. &c. 
 
 I gave many public addresses to the people of Sesheko 
 under the outspreading camel-thorn-tree, which serves as a 
 shade to the kotla on the high bank of the river. It was 
 pleasant to see the long lines of men, women, and children 
 winding along from diflferent quarters of the town, each 
 party following behind their respective head-men. They 
 often amounted to between five and six hundred houIb, and 
 required an exertion of voice which brought back the com- 
 plaint for which I had got the uvula excised at the Cape. 
 They were always very attentive ; and Moriantsaue, in 
 order, as he thought, to please me, on one occasion rose up 
 in the middle of the discourse, and hurled his staff at tho 
 heads of some young fellows whom he saw working with 
 a skin instead of listening. My hearers somotimoB put very 
 sensible questions on the subjects brought before them ; at 
 other times they introduced the most frivolous nonsense 
 immediately after hearing the most solemn truths. Some 
 begin to pray to Jesus in secret as soon as they hear of the 
 white man's God, with but little idea of what they art 
 about, and no doubt are heard by Him who, like a iather 
 pitioth his children. Others, waking by night, recollect 
 what has been said about the future world so clearly that 
 they tell next day what a fright they got by it, and resolve 
 not to listen to tho teaching again ; and not a few keep to 
 the determination not to believe, as certain villagers in tb« 
 
136 PROGRESS UP THE LEEAMBrt. 
 
 Boath, who pat all their cocks to death because they 
 crowed the words, " Tlang lo rapeleng," — " Come along to 
 prayers." 
 
 On recovering partially from a severe attack of fever 
 which remained upon me ever since our passing the village 
 of Moremi on the Chobe, we made ready for our departure 
 up the river by sending messages before us to the villagea 
 to prepare food. We took four elephants' tusks, belonging 
 to Sekeletu, with us, as a means of testing the difference of 
 prices between the Portuguese, whom we expected to reach, 
 and the white traders from the south. Moriantsane sup- 
 plied us well with honey, milk, and meal. The rains wore 
 just commencing in this district; but, though showers 
 sufficient to lay the dust had fallen, they had no influence 
 whatever on the amount of water in the river, yet never 
 was there loss in any part than three hundred yards of a 
 deep flowing stream. 
 
 Our progress up the river was rather slow: this waa 
 caused by waiting opposite different villages for supplies 
 of food. We might have done with much less than we got; 
 but my Makololo man, Pitsano, knew of the generous orders 
 "•f Sekeletu, and was not at all disposed to allow them to 
 remain a dead letter. The villages of the Banyeti con. 
 tributed large quantities of mosibe, a bright-red bean 
 yielded by a large tree. The pulp enclosing the seed is not 
 much thicker than a red wafer, and is the portion used. It 
 requires the addition of honey to render it at all palatable 
 
 To these were added great numbers of the fruit which 
 yields a variety of the nux vomica, from which we derive 
 that virulent poison strychnia. The pulp between the nuts 
 is the part eaten, and it is of a pleasant juicy nature, having 
 a sweet acidulous taste. The fruit itself resembles a large 
 yellcw orange, but the rind is hftrd, and, with the pips and 
 bark, contains much of the deadly poison. They evince 
 their noxious qualities by an intensely bitter taste. The 
 nuts, swallowed inadvertently, cause considerable pain, 
 bat not death ; and, to avoid this inconvenience, the people 
 
HIPPOPOTAMI. 187 
 
 dry the pnlp before the fire, in order to bs able the more 
 easOy to get rid of the noxious seed. 
 
 The rapids in the part of the river between Katim&> 
 molelo and Nameta are relieved by several reaches of still, 
 deep water, fifteen or twenty miles long. In these very 
 large herds of hippopotami are seen ; and the deep furrows 
 they make, in ascending the banks to graze during the 
 nights, are everywhere apparent. They are guided back 
 to the water by the scent; but a long-continued pouring rain 
 makes it impossible to perceive by that moans in which 
 direction the river lies, and they are found bewildered on 
 the land. The hunters take advantage of their helplessness 
 on these occasions to kill them. 
 
 It is impossible to judge of the numbers in a herd, for 
 they are almost always hidden beneath the' waters ; but, as 
 they require to come up every few minutes to breathe, 
 when there is a constant succession of heads thrown up, 
 then the herd is supposed to be large. They love a stiU 
 reach of the stream, as in the more rapid parts of the 
 channel they are floated down so quickly that much exer- 
 tion is necessary to regain the distance lost, by frequently 
 swimming up again : such constant exertion disturbs them 
 in their nap. They prefer to remain by day in a drowsy, 
 yawning state, and, though their eyes are open, they take 
 little notice of things at a distance. The males utter a 
 loud succession of snorting grunts, which may bo heard 
 a mUe ofi". The canoe in which I was, in passing over a 
 wounded one, elicited a distinct grunting, though the 
 animal lay entirely under the water. 
 
 The young, when very little, take their stand on the 
 neck of the dam, and the small head, rising above the 
 large, comes soonest to the surface. The dam, knowing 
 ihe more urgent need of her calf, comes more frequently to 
 the surface when it is in her care. But in the rivers of 
 Londa, where they are much in danger of being shot, evoa 
 the hippopotamus gains wit by experience ; for, while those 
 tn Utio Zambesi put up their heads openly to blow, thow 
 
 J 2* 
 
138 MODE OF SPENDING THE DAT. 
 
 referred to keep their noses among water-plants, and 
 breathe so quietly that one would not dream of their exist- 
 enoe in the river except by footprints on the banks. 
 
 CHAPTEE XIT. 
 
 VOTAQB ON THE LEEAMBYE, CONTINUED. 
 
 3Qth of November, 1853. — At Gonyo Falls. No ram haa 
 &lIon here J so it is excessively hot. The trees have put on 
 heir gayest dress, and many flowers adorn the landscape 
 yet the heat makes all the leaves droop at mid-day and 
 look languid for want of rain. If the country increases 
 as much in beauty in front as it has done within the last 
 four degrees of latitude, it will be indeed a lovely land. 
 
 "Wo all felt great lassitude in travelling. The atmo- 
 sphere is oppressive both in cloud and sunshine. The evapo- 
 ration from the river must be excessively great ; and I feel 
 as if the fluids of the system joined in the general motion 
 of watery vapor upward, as enormous quantities of water 
 must bo drunk to supply its place. 
 
 When under way our usual procedure is this : — "We get 
 up a little before five in the morning ; it is then beginning 
 to dawn. While I am dressing, coffee is made; and, having 
 filled my pannikin, the remainder is handed to my com- 
 panions, who eagerly partake of the refreshing beverage 
 The servants are busy loading the canoes, while the prin ■ 
 cipal men are sipping the cofice, and, that being soon over 
 we embark. The next two hours are the most pleasant 
 part of the day's sail. The men paddle away most vigor- 
 ously : the Barotse, being a tribe of boatmen, have largo 
 deeply-developed chests and shoulders, with indifforent 
 lower extremities. They often engage in loud scolding of 
 each other, in order to relieve the tedium of their work. 
 About eleven we land, and eat any oieat which may bava 
 
FALIiS OF OONTE. 13i 
 
 remuined from tto previous evening meal, or a biscuit with 
 honey, and drink water. 
 
 After an hour's rest, we again embark and cower under 
 an umbrella. The heat is oppressive, and, being weak 
 from the last attack of fever, I cannot land and keep the 
 camp supplied with flesh. The men, being quite uncovered 
 in the sun, perspire profusely, and in the afternoon begio 
 to stop, as if waiting for the canoes which have been lefl 
 behind. Sometimes we reach a sleeping-place two hours 
 before sunset, and, all bein) troubled with languor, we 
 gladly remain for the night. Coffee again, and a biscuit, or 
 a piece of coarse bread made of maize-meal, or that of the 
 native corn, make up the bill of fare for the evening, un- 
 less we have been fortunate enough to kill something, — 
 when we boil a potful of flesh. This is done by cutting it 
 up into long strips and pouring in water till it is covered. 
 When that is boiled dry, the meat is considered ready. 
 
 The people at Gonye carry the canoes over the space 
 requisite to avoid the falls by slinging them on poles tied 
 on diagonally. They place these on their shoulders, and, 
 setting about the work with good humor, soon accomplish the 
 task. Thoy are a merry set of mortals ; a feeble joke seta 
 them off in a fit of laughter. Here, as elsewhere, all peti- 
 tioned for the magic lantern; and, as it is a good means of 
 conveying instruction, I willingly complied. 
 
 The falls of Gonye have not been made by wearing back 
 like those of Niagara, but are of a fissure form. Tor many 
 miles below, the river is confined in a narrow space of not 
 more than one hundred yards wide. The water goes boiling 
 along, and gives the idea of great masses of it rolling over 
 and over, so that even the most expert swimmer would find 
 it difficult to keep on the surface. Here it is that the river, 
 when in flood, rises fifty or sixty feet in perpendicular 
 height. The islands above the falls are covered with foliage 
 as beautiful as can bo seen anywhere. Viewed from the 
 mass of rock which overhangs the fall, the scenery was the 
 loveliest I had seen. 
 
 Nothing worthy of note occurred on cnrway to >lameto. 
 
140 MAKOLOLO FOEAT. 
 
 There we heard that a party of the Makololo, headed by 
 Lerimo, had made a foray to the north and up the Leoba, 
 in the very direction in which we were about to proceed. 
 Mpololo, the uncle of Sekeletu, is considered the head-man 
 of the Barotse valley ; and the perpetrators hai his fuU 
 sanction, because Masiko, a son of Santuru, the former 
 chief of the Barotse, had fled high up the Leeambye, and, 
 establishing himself there, had sent men down to the Vici- 
 nity of Naliele to draw away the remaining Barotse from 
 their allegiance. Lerimo's party had taken some of this 
 Mesiko's subjects prisoners, and destroyed several villages 
 of the Balonda, to whom we were going. This was in 
 direct opposition to the policy of Sekeletu, who wished to 
 be at peace with these northern tribes ; and Pitsane, my 
 head-man, was the bearer of orders to Mpololo to furnish 
 as with presents to the very chiefs they had attacked. 
 Thus, we wore to get large pots of clarified butter and 
 bunches of beads, in confirmation of the message of peace 
 we were to deliver. 
 
 When we reached Litofe, we heard that a fresh foray 
 was in contemplation; but I sent forward orders to disband 
 the party immediately. At Ma-Sekeletu's town we found 
 the head-offendei, Mpololo himself, and I gave him a bit 
 of my mind, to the effect that, as I was going with the full 
 sanction of Sekeletu, if any harm happened to me in con- 
 sequence of his ill-advised expedition the guilt would rest 
 with him. Ma-Sekeletu, who was present, heartily approved 
 all I said, and suggested that all the captives taken by 
 Lerimo should be returned by my hand, to show Masiko 
 that the guilt of the foray lay not with the superior per- 
 sons of the Makololo, but with a mere servant. Her good 
 sense appeared in other respects besides; and, as this was 
 exactly what my own party had previously resolved to 
 snggest, we were pleased to hear Mpololo agree to do what 
 bo was advised. He asked me to lay the matter before 
 the nnder-chiefs of Naliele, and when we reached that 
 place, on the 9th of December, I did so in a picho, called 
 
IiIBERALITT 01 THE IBOPI.K. 14 i 
 
 expressly for the purpose. Lerimo was present, and felt 
 rather crestfallen when his exploit was described by Moho- 
 risi, one of my companions, as one of extreme cowardice, 
 ho having made an attack npon the defenceless villagers of 
 Londa, while, as wo had found on our former visit, a lion 
 had actually killed eight people of Naliele without his 
 daring to encounter it. The Makololo pre cowardly in 
 respect to animals, but bravo against men. Mpololo took 
 'all the guilt upon himself before the people, and delivered 
 up a captive child whom his wife had in her possession; 
 others followed his example, till wo procured the release of 
 five of the prisoners. Some thought, as Masiko had tried 
 to take their children by stratagem, they ought to take his 
 by force, as the two modes suited the genius of each people : 
 the Makalaka delight in cunning, and the Makololo in 
 fighting; and others thobght, if Sokeletu meant them to 
 be at peace with Masiko, he ought to have told them so. 
 
 It is rather dangerous to tread in the footsteps of a 
 marauding-party with men of the same tribe as the 
 aggressors, but my people were in good spirits, and several 
 volunteers oven offered to join our ranks. We, however, 
 adhered strictly to the orders of Sekeletu as to our com- 
 panions, and refused all others. 
 
 The people of every village treated us most liberally, 
 presenting, besides oxen, butter, milk, and meal, more than 
 wo could stow away in our canoes. The cows in this valley 
 are now yielding, as they frequently do, more milk than 
 the people can use, and both men and women present 
 butter in. such quantity that I shall bo able to refresh my 
 men as we move along. Anointing the skin prevents the 
 excessive evaporation of the fluids of the body, and acts as 
 clothing in both sun and shade. They always made their 
 presents gracefully. When an ox was given, the owner 
 would say, " Here is a little bit of bread for you." This was 
 pleasing, for I had been accustomed to the Bechuanas pre- 
 senting a miserable goat, with the pompous exclamation, 
 "Behold an ox I" The women persisted in giving me 
 
142 DEPABtcmi: raoit naliele. 
 
 copious supplias of shrill praises, or "lullilooingj" but, 
 though I frequently told them to modify their "great lords" 
 and "great lions" to more humble expressions, they so evi- 
 dently intended to do me honor that I could not help being 
 pleased with the poor creatures' wishes for our success. 
 
 The rains began while we were at Naliele j this is much 
 later than usual ; but, though the Barotso valley has been 
 in need of rain, the people never lack abundance of !bod 
 The showers are refreshing, but the air feels hot and close; ' 
 cho thermometer, however, in a cool hut, stands only at 
 84°. The access of the external air to any spot at once 
 Taises its temperature above 90°. A new attack of fovei 
 here caused excessive languor ; but, as I am already getting 
 tired of quoting my fevers, and never liked to read travels 
 myself where much was said about the illnesses of the 
 traveller, 1 shall henceforth QndSavor to say little abou+ 
 them. 
 
 "We here sent back the canoe of Sekelotur,'and got the 
 loan of others from Mpololo. Eight riding-oxen, and seven 
 for slaughter, were, according to the orders of that chief, 
 also furnished ; some were intended for our own use, and 
 others as presents to the chiefs of the Balonda. Mpololo 
 was particularly liberal in giving all that Sckeletu ordered, 
 though, as he feeds on the cattle he has in charge, he might 
 have felt it so much abstracted from his own perquisites. 
 
 Leaving Naliele, amid abundance of good wishes for the 
 success of our expedition, and hopes that we might return 
 accompanied with white traders, we began.again our ascentot 
 the river. It was now beginning to rise, though the rains 
 had but just commenced in the valley. The banks are low, 
 but cleanly cut, and seldom slopiug. At low-water they are 
 from four to eight feet high, and make the river always 
 assume very much the aspect of a canal. 
 
 These perpendicular banks afford building-places to » 
 pretty boe-oater,* which loves to breed in society. The 
 
 • Hferopn apiiuter and M. bullockotdti, TSmith.) 
 
LIBONTA. 143 
 
 &00 of tno sand-bank is perforated with hnndreds of holes 
 leading to thoir nests, each of which is about a foot apart 
 from the other; and as wo pass they pour out of their 
 hiding-places and float overhead. 
 
 17th December. — At Libonta. We were detained for days 
 together collecting contributions of fat and butter, accord- 
 ing to the orders of Sokelotu, as presents to the Balonda 
 chiefs. Much fever prevailed, and ophthalmia was rife, as 
 is generally the case before the rains begin. Some of my 
 own men required my assistance, as well as the people of 
 Libonta. A lion had done a good deal of mischief hore_ 
 and when the people went to attack it two men wore badly 
 wounded; one of them had his thigh-bone quite broken, 
 showing the prodigious power of this animal's jaws. The 
 inflammation produced by the teeth-wounds proved fatal to 
 one of them. 
 
 Here wo demanded the remainder of the captives, and 
 ^ot our number increased to nineteen. They consisted of 
 women and children, and one young man of twenty. One 
 of the boys was smuggled away in the crowd as we em- 
 barked. The Makololo under-chiefs often act in direct 
 opposition to the will of the head-chief, trusting to cir- 
 cumstances and brazen-facedness to screen themselves from 
 his open displeasure; and, as he does not always find it 
 convenient to notice faults, they often go to considerable 
 lengths in wrong-doing. 
 
 Libonta is the last town of the Makololo ; so, when we 
 parted from it, we had only a few cattle-stations and out- 
 lying hamlets in front, and then an uninhabited border- 
 eountry till we came to Londa or Lunda. Libonta is situ- 
 ated on a mound, like the rest of the villages in the Barotso 
 valley, but hero the tree-covered sides of tho valley begin 
 to approach nearer tho river. The village itself belongs to 
 two cf tho chief wives of Scbituane, who furnished us with 
 an ox and abundance of other food. Tho same kindness 
 was manifested by all who could afford to give any thing; 
 and, as I glance over their deeds of .generosity recorded is 
 
144 MODE OF PA8BIKO THE NIGHT. 
 
 my journal, my heart glows with gratitude to *,hom and t 
 hope and pray that God may spare mo to make thorn somo 
 return 
 
 Before leaving .the villages entirely, wo may glance at 
 our way of spending the nights. As soon as wo land, somo 
 of the men cut a little grass for my bed, while Mashauana 
 plants the polos of the little tent. Those are used by day 
 for carrying burdens, for the Barotao fashion is exactly 
 like that of the natives of India, only the burden is fastened 
 near the ends of the polo, and not suspended b.y long cords. 
 The bod is made, and boxes ranged on each sido of it, and 
 theu the tent pitched over all. Four or five foot in front 
 of my tent is placed the principal or kotla fire, the wood 
 for which must be collected by the man who occupies the 
 post of herald and takes as his perquisite the heads of aU 
 the oxen slaughtered and of all the game too. Each per- 
 son knows the station he is to occupy in reference to the 
 post of honor at the fire in front of the door of the tent. 
 The two Makololo occupy my right and left, both in eating 
 and sleeping, as long as the journey lasts. But Mashauana, 
 my head-boatman, makes his bed at the door of the tent as 
 soon as I retire. The rest, divided into small companies 
 according to their tribes, make sheds all round the fire, 
 leaving a horseshoe-shaped space in front suflScient for the 
 cattle to stand in. The fire gives confidence to the oxen; 
 so the men are always careful to keep them in sight of it. 
 The sheds are formed by planting two stout forked poles 
 m an inclined direction, and placing another over these in a 
 horizontal position. A number of branches are then stuck in 
 the ground in the direction to wbich the poles are inclined, 
 the twigs drawn down to the horizontal pole and tied with 
 strips of bark. Long grass is then laid over the branches 
 in suflS.cient quantity to draw off the rain, and we liave 
 sheds open to the fire in front but secure from beasts be- 
 hind. In less than an hour we were usually all under cover. 
 We never lacked abundance of grass during the whole 
 joarney. It is a picturesque sight at night, when the oleax 
 
ALLIQATOas. 146 
 
 bwh^ jioon of thoso climates glances on the sleeping forma 
 around, to look oat upon the attitudes of profound repoM 
 both men and beasts assume. There being no danger irom 
 wild animals on such a night, the fires are allowed almost 
 to go out ; and, as there is no fear of hungry dogs coming 
 over Bloopers and devouring the food, or quietly eating up 
 the poor fellows' blankets, which at best wore but greasy 
 skins, which sometimes happened in the villages, the pio- 
 lure was one of perfect peace. 
 
 The cookiug is usually done in the natives' own stylo; 
 and, as they carefully wash the dishes, pots, and the hands 
 before handling food, it is by no means despicable Some- 
 times alterations are made at my suggestion, and then thoy 
 believe that they can cook in thorough white man's fashion. 
 The cook always comes in for something left in tho potj so 
 all are eager to obtain tho office. 
 
 I taught several of them to wash my shirts, and thoy 
 did it well, though their teacher had never been taught 
 that work himself. Frequent changes of linen and sunning 
 of my blanket kept mo more comfortable than might have 
 been anticipated, and I feel certain that the lessons of 
 cleanliness rigidly instilled by my mother in childhood 
 helped to maintain that respect which these people enter- 
 tain for European ways. It is questionable if a descent to 
 barbarous ways ever elevates a man in the eyes of savages. 
 
 Part of our company marched along the banks w>th the 
 oxen, and part went in tho canoes, but our pace was regu- 
 lated by tho speed of tho men on shore. Their course was 
 rather difficult, on account of tho numbers of departing and 
 re-entering branches of tho Lceambyc, which they had to 
 ftvoid or wait at till we ferried them over. Tho number 
 of alligators is prodigious, and in this river they are more 
 savage than in some others. Many children are carried 
 off annually at Seshoko and other towns; for, notwith- 
 standing the danger, when they go down for water they 
 ahnost always must play a while. This reptile is said by the 
 natives to strike tho victim with his tail, then drag him in 
 
146 GAME. 
 
 and drown him. When lying in tho water watching fo? 
 prey, the body never appears. Many calves are lost alsOj 
 and it is seldom that a number of cows can swim over at 
 Seshoke without some loss. I never could avoid shudder- 
 ing on seeing my men swimming across these branches, 
 dftor one of them had been caught by the thigh and taken 
 below. Ho, however, retained, as nearly all of them in 
 the most trying circumstances do, his full presence of mind, 
 and, having a small, square, ragged-edged javelin with 
 him, when dragged to tho bottom gave tho alligator u stab 
 behind the shoulder. The alligator, writhing in pain, lefl 
 him, and he came out with the deep marks of tho reptile's 
 teeth on his thigh. Here the people have no antipathy to 
 persons who have met with such an adventure ; but in tho 
 Bamangwato and Bakwain tribes, if a man is either bitten 
 or even has had water splashed over him by the reptile's 
 tail, he is expelled his tribe. 
 
 When we had gone thirty or forty miles above Libonta_ 
 wo sent eleven of our captives to the west, to the chief 
 called Makoma, with an explanatory message. Thie 
 caused some delay ; but as we were loaded with presents 
 of food from the Makololo, and the wild animals were in 
 enormous herds, we fared sumptuously. It was grievous, 
 however, to shoot tho lovely creatures, they were so tame. 
 With but little skill in stalking, one could easily get within 
 fifty or sixty yards of them. There I lay, looking at the 
 graceful forms and motions of beautiful pokus, leches, and 
 Dtbcr antelopes, often till my men, wondering what wag 
 the matter, camo up to see, and frightened them away, 
 [f wo had been starving, I could have slaughtered them 
 frith as little hesitation as I should cut off a patient's log; 
 but i folt a doubt, and tho antelopes got the benefit of it. 
 
 My men, having never had fire-arms in their hands bo- 
 fore, found it so difficult to hold the musket steady at the 
 flash of fire in the pan, that they naturally expected mo to 
 famish them with "gun-medicine," without which, it is 
 almost universally believed, no one can shoot straiiyht 
 
DIFFICULTY IN USING THE GUN. 147 
 
 Gteat expectations had been formed when I arrived among 
 the Makololo on this subject; but, having invariably de- 
 clined to deceive them, as some for their own profit have 
 done, my men now supposed that I would at last consent, 
 and thereby relieve myself from the hard work of hunting 
 by employing them after duo medication. This I was most 
 willing to do, if I could have done it honestly ; for, having 
 but little of the hunting-/Mrore in my composition, I always 
 preferred eating the game to killing it. Sulphur is the 
 remedy most admired, and I remember Sechelo giving a 
 large price for a very small bit. He also gave some 
 elephants' tusks, worth £30, for another medicine which 
 was to make him invulnerable to musket-balls. As I 
 uniformly recommended that these things should be tested 
 by experiment, a calf was anointed with the charm and 
 tied to a tree. It proved decisive, and Sechele remarked 
 it was "pleasanter to be deceived than undeceived." I 
 offered sulphur for the same purpose, but that was declined, 
 oven though a person came to the town afterward and 
 rubbed his hands with a little before a successful trial of 
 shooting at a mark. 
 
 I explained to my men the nature of a gun, and tried to 
 teach them, but they would soon have expended all the 
 ammunition in my possession. I was thus obliged to do 
 all the shooting myself ever afterward. Their inability 
 was rather a misfortune ; for, in consequence of working 
 too soon after having been bitten by the lion, the bone of 
 my left arm had not united well. Continual hard manual 
 labor, and some falls from ox-back, lengthened the liga- 
 ment by which the ends of the bones were united, and a 
 lalse joint was the consequence. The limb has never been 
 painful, as those of my companions On the day of the ren- 
 counter with the lion have been; but, there being a joint 
 too many, I could not steady the rifle, and was always 
 obliged to shoot with the piece resting on the left shoulder. 
 I wanted steadiness of aim, and it generally happened that 
 
V48 HIPPOPOTAMI. 
 
 the more hungry the party bocamo, the more frequently I 
 missed the animals. 
 
 Before we came to the junction of the Lceba and 
 Looambyo wo found the banks twenty feet high, and com- 
 posed of marly sandstone. They are covered with trees, 
 and the left bank has the tsetse and elephants. I suspect 
 the fly has some connection with this animal, and the 
 Portuguese in the district of Tote must think so too, for 
 thoy call it the Musca da elephant, (the elephant-fly.) 
 
 Wo passed great numbers of hippopotami. Thoy are 
 very numerous in the parts of the river where they are 
 never hunted. The males appear of a dark color, the 
 females of yellowish brown. There is not such a complete 
 separation of the sexes among them as among elephants. 
 They spend most of their time in the water, lolling about 
 in a listless, dreamy manner. "When they come out of the 
 rivor by night, they crop off the soft succulent grasses 
 vo-ry neatly. When thoy blow, they puff up the watoi 
 about three feet high. 
 
 CHAPTEE XV. 
 
 DR. LIVINGSTONE VISITS THE FEMALE CHIEFS MANENKO ABTC 
 
 NYAMOANA. 
 
 On the 27th of December we were at the confluence of tho 
 Leeba and Lccambyo, (lat. 14° 10' 52" S., long. 23° 35' 40" 
 B ) Masiko, the Barotso chief, for whom wo had some 
 captives, lived nearly due east of this point. Thoy were 
 two little boys, a little girl, a young man, and two middle- 
 aged women. One of these was a member of a Babimpe 
 tribe, who knock out both upper and lower front teeth as 
 a distinction. As wo had been informed by tho captivei 
 on tho previous Sunday that Masiko was in tho habit of 
 seizing all orphans, and those who have no powerful friend 
 
HESSAQi: TO MA8IK0 14t 
 
 in tho tribe whoso protection they can claim, and Belling 
 them for clothing to the Mambari, wo thought the objec- 
 tion of the women to go first to his town before seeing their 
 friends quite reasonable, and resolved to send a party of 
 our own people to see them safely among their relatives. 
 I told tho captive young man to infbrm Masiko that he 
 was very unlike his father Santuru, who had refused tn 
 BcU his people to Mambari. B'e will probably bo afraid to 
 deliver such a message himself, but it is meant for his peo- 
 ple, and they will circulate it pretty widely, and Masiko 
 may yot feel a littlo pressure from without. "We sent 
 Mosantu, a Batoka man, and his companions, with Iho cap- 
 tives. The Barotse whom wo had wore unwilling to go to 
 Masiko, since they owe him allegiance as the son of San- 
 turu, and while thoy continue with Makololo are consi- 
 dered rebels. The message by Mosantu was that " I was 
 sorry to find that Santuru had not borno a wiser son. San- 
 turn loved to govern men, but Masiko wanted to govern 
 wild beasts only, as he sold his people to the Mambari ;" 
 adding an explanation of tho return of tho captives, and 
 an injunction to him to live in peace, and prevent his 
 people kidnapping the children and canoes of tho Makololo 
 as a continuance in these deeds would lead to war, which 
 1 wished to prevent. He was also .instructed to say, if 
 Masiko wanted fuller explanation of my views, ho must 
 Bond a sensible man to talk with me at the first town of tho 
 Balonda, to which I was about to proceed. 
 
 We ferried Mosantu over to the left bank of tho Looba. 
 The journey required five days, but it could not have been 
 at a quicker rate than ten or twelve miles per day; the 
 children were bet%voen seven and eight years of ago, and 
 mablo to walk fast in a hot sun. 
 
 Leaving Mosantu to pursue his courEO, wo shall tako but 
 ono glanco down the river, which we are now about to 
 leave, for it comes at this point from tho eastward, and our 
 course is to bo directed to tho northwest, as wo moan to 
 go to Loanda in Angola. From tho confluence, where wa 
 
 13* 
 
160 NAVIGATION OF THE LEEAMBYK. 
 
 now are, down to Mosioatunya, there are many long 
 roaches, where a vessel equal to the Thames steamers ply- 
 ing between the bridges could run as freely as th.ey do on 
 the Thames. It is often, even here, as broad as that river 
 at London Bridge; but, without accurate measurement of 
 the depth, one could not say which contained most water. 
 There are, however, many and serious obstacles to a coi> 
 tinued navigation for hundreds of miles at a stretch. 
 About ten miles below the confluence of the Locti,' for in- 
 Btancc, there are many largo sand-banks in the stream; then 
 you have a hundred miles to the river Simiih, where a 
 Thames steamer could ply at all times of the year ; but, 
 again, the space between Simah and Katima-molclo has five 
 or six rapids with cataracts, one of which — Gonye — could 
 not be passed at any time without portage. Between 
 those rapids there are reaches of still, deep water, of 
 several miles in length. Beyond Katima-molclo to the 
 confluence of the Chobe you have nearly a hundred miles, 
 again, of a river capable of being navigated in the same 
 way as in the Barotso valley. 
 
 Now, I do not say that this part of the river presents a 
 very inviting prospect for extemporaneous European enter- 
 prise ; but when wo have a pathway which requires only 
 the formation of portages to mako it equal to our canals 
 for hundreds of miles, where the philosophers supposed 
 thoro was naught but an extensive sandy desert, wo must 
 confess that the future partakes at least of the elements 
 of hope. My deliberate conviction was and is that the 
 part of the country indicated is as capable of supporting 
 millions of inhabitants as it is of its thousands. The grass 
 of tho Barotse valley, for instance, is such a densely-matted 
 mass, that, when "laid," tho stalks bear each other up, so 
 that one feels as if walking on the sheaves of a haystack, 
 and tho leches nestle under it to bring forth their young 
 Tho soil which produces this, if placed under the plough, 
 instead of being mere pasturage, would yield grain auW 
 oient to food vast multitudes. 
 
BUFFALO-HUNT. 151 
 
 We now began to ascend the Leeba. The water is blaok 
 m color as compared with the main stream, which here 
 assumes tho name of Kabompo. The Lecba flows placidly, 
 and, unlike tho parent river, receives numbers of little rivu- 
 lets from both sides. It winds slowly through the most 
 charming meadows, each oi' which has cither a soft,, sedgy 
 centre, largo pond, or trickling rill down tho middle. 
 
 A large buffalo was wounded, and ran into tho thickest 
 part of the forest, bleeding profusely. The young men 
 went on his trail ; and, though tho vegetation was ho dense 
 that no one could have run more than a few yards, most 
 of them went along quite carelessly, picking and eating a 
 fruit of the melon-family called mponko. When the animal 
 heard them approach, ho always fled, shifting his stand 
 and doubling on his course in tho most cunning manner. 
 In other cases I have known them to turn back to a point 
 a few yards from their own trail, and then lie down in a 
 hollow waiting for the hunter to come up. Though a 
 heavy, lumbering-looking animal, his charge is then rapid 
 and terrific. More accidents happen by the buffalo and 
 tho black rhinoceros than by the lion. Though all aro 
 aware of tho mischievous nature of the buffalo when 
 wounded, our young men went after him quite carelessly 
 They never lose their j)resenco of mind, but, as a buffalo 
 charges back in a forest, dart dexterously out of his way 
 behind a tree, and, wheeling round, stab him as he passes. 
 
 On the 28th we slept at a spot on the right bank from 
 which had just emerged two broods of alligators. Wo had 
 ,=ieen many young ones as we came up ; so this seonis to bo 
 Iheir time of coming forth from tho nests, for we saw. them 
 sunning themselves on sand-banks in company with tho 
 old ones. We made our fire in one of tho deserted nests, 
 which were strewed all over with the broken shells. At 
 tho Zouga wo saw sixty eggs taken out of one such test 
 alone. They are about the size of those of a gooso, only 
 tho eggs of tho alligator are of tho same diameter at both 
 ends, and the white shell is partially elastic, from having a 
 
152 ALLIQATOBS' EOflS. 
 
 strong intomal membrane and but little lime il its compo 
 sitiou. The distance from the water was about ten feet 
 nnd there were ovidonces of the same place having been 
 used for a similar pui-poso in former years. A broad path 
 led up from the Avater to the nest, and the dam, it was said 
 by my companions, after depositing the eggs, covers them 
 lip, and returns afterward to assist the young out of the 
 place of confinement and out of the egg. She leads them 
 to the edge of the water, and then leaves them to catch 
 small fish for themselves. 
 
 When we reached the part of the river opposite to the 
 village of Manonko, the first female chief whom we encoun- 
 tered, two of the people called Balunda, or Balonda, came 
 to us in their little canoe. From them we learned that 
 Kolimbota, one of our party, who had been in the habit of 
 visiting these parts, was believed by the Balonda to have 
 acted as a guide to the marauders under Lerimo, whoso 
 captives wo were now returning. They very naturally 
 suspected this, from the facility with which their villages 
 had been found; and,. as they had since removed them to 
 some distance from the river, they were unwilling to lead 
 lis to their places of concealment. Wo were in bad repute; 
 but, having a captive boy and girl to show in evidence of 
 Sekeletu and ourselves not being partakers in the guilt of 
 inferior men, I could fully express my desire that all should 
 Uvo in peace. They evidently felt that I ought to have 
 taught the Makololo first, before coming to them ; for they 
 remarked that what I advanced was very good, but guilt 
 lay at the door of the Makololo for disturbing the pro- 
 viously-oxisting peace. They then went away to report 
 UB to Manenko. 
 
 When the strangers visited us again m the evening, they 
 wore accompanied by a number of the people of an Am- 
 bSnda chief named Sokolenke. The Ambonda live far to 
 the N.W.; their language (the B5nda) is the common dia- 
 lect in Angola. Sckelenke had fled, and was now living 
 with his village a» <i vassal of Masiko. Sekolonko had 
 
sekelenke's present 15S 
 
 gone with his villagers to hunt elephants on the right 
 bank of the Lecba, and was now. on his way back to 
 Masiko. Ho sent me a dish of boiled zebra's flesh, and a 
 request that I should lend him a canoe to ferry his wives 
 and family across the river to the bank on which we wore 
 encamped. Many of Sekelonko's people came to salute the 
 first white man they ever had an opportunity of seeing; 
 but Sekelenke himself did not come near. We heard ho 
 was offended with some of his people for letting me know 
 ho was among the company. Ho said that I should be 
 displeased with him for not coming and making some pre 
 sent. This was the only instance in which I was shunned 
 in this quarter. 
 
 Sekelenke and his people, twenty-four in number, defiled 
 past our camp, carrying large bundles of dried elephants' 
 meat. Most of them came to say good-bye, and Sekelenke 
 himself sent to say that ho had gone to visit a wife living 
 in the village of Manenko. It was a mere African manoeuvre 
 to gain information, and not to commit himself to either 
 one lino of action or another with respect to our visit. As 
 ho was probably in the party before us, I replied that it 
 was all right, and when my people came up from Masiko 
 I would go to rxy wife too. 
 
 To our first message offering a visit of explanation to 
 Manenko, wo got an answer, with a basket of manioc-roots, 
 that we must remain where we were till she should visit 
 ufl. Having waited two days already for her, other mes^ 
 Bongers arrived with orders for me to come to her. Aftei 
 four days of rains and negotiation, I declined going at all, 
 Bud proceeded up the river to the small stream Makondo, 
 (lat. 13° 23' 12" S.,) which enters the Lccba from the east^ 
 and is between twenty and thirty yards broad. 
 
 January 1, 1854. — We had heavy rains aln ost every day : 
 indeed, the rainy season had fairly set in. Baskets of tha 
 pur])Io fruit called mawa were frequently brought to us by 
 the villagors; not for sale, but from a belief that theii 
 
154 MAMBARI TRADERS. 
 
 chieft would be pleased to hear that they had treated xu 
 well : -we gave them pieces of meat in return. 
 
 When crossing at the confluence of the Leeba and Ma- 
 kendo, one of my men picked up a bit of a steel watch 
 chain of English manufacture, and we were informed that 
 this was the spot where the Mambari cross in coming to 
 Masiko. Their visits explain why Sekelenke kept his tusks 
 80 carefully. These Mambari are very enterprising mer- 
 chants : when they mean to trade with a town, they delibe- 
 rately begin the affair by building huts, as if they knew 
 that little business could be transacted without a liberal 
 allowance of time for palaver. They bring Manchester 
 goods into the heart of Africa; these cotton prints look so 
 wonderful that the Makololo could not believe them to be 
 the work of mortal hands. On questioning the Mambari, 
 they were answered that English manufactures came out of 
 the sea, and beads were gathered on its shore. To Africana 
 our cotton-mills are fairy dreams. " How can the irons spin, 
 weave, and print so beautifully ?" Our country is like what 
 Taprobane was to our ancestors, — a strange realm of light, 
 whence came the diamond, muslin, and peacocks ; an attempt 
 at explanation of our manufactures usually elicits the expres- 
 sion, " Truly ye are gods !" 
 
 When about to leave the Makondo, one of my men had 
 dreamed that Mosdntu was shut up a prisoner in a stockade : 
 this dream depressed the. spirits of the whole party, and 
 when I came out of my little tent in the morning, they 
 were sitting the pictures of abject sorrow. I asked if we 
 wore to be guided by dreams, or by the authority I derived 
 from Sekelotu, and ordered them to load the boats at once: 
 they seemed ashamed to confess their fears; the Makololc 
 picked up courage and upbraided the others for having 
 such superstitious views, and said this was always their 
 way: if oven a certain bird called to them, they would turn 
 back from an enterprise, sajdng it was unlucky. Thoy 
 entered the canoes at last, and were the bettei of a littla 
 scolding for ooing inclined to put dreams befon Ruthority. 
 
INTIKVIEW Wixn J6EMALE CUIEF. 155 
 
 It rained all the morning, but about cloven we reached the 
 village of Sheakondo, on a small stream named Lonkonyo. 
 Wo sent a message to the head-man, who soon appeared 
 with two wives, bearing handsome presents of manioc: 
 Bheakondo could speak the language of the Barotse well, 
 and seemed awe-struck when told some of the "words of 
 God." Ho manifested no fear, always spoke frankly, and 
 when ho made an asseveration, did so by simply pointing 
 up to the sky above- him. 
 
 Sheakondo'fl old wife presented some manioc-roots, and 
 then politely requested to be anointed with butter: as I 
 had been bountifully supplied by the Makololo, I gave her 
 as much as woald suffice, and, as they have little clothing, 
 1 can readily believe that she felt her comfort greatly 
 enhanced thereby. 
 
 The favorite wife, who was also present, was equally 
 anxious for butter. She had a profusion of iron rings on 
 her ankles, to which were attached Uttlo pieces of sheet- 
 iron, to enable her to make a tinkling as she walked in her 
 mincing African stj'lc; the same thing is thought pretty 
 by our own dragoons in walking jauntingly. 
 
 On the 6th of January we reached the village of another 
 female chief, named ISfyamoana, who is said to be the 
 mother of Manenko, and sister of Shinte or Kabompo, the 
 greatest Balonda chief in this part of the country. Her 
 people had but recently come to the present locality, and 
 had erected only twenty huts. Her husband, Samoana, 
 was clothed in a kilt of green and red baize, and was armed 
 with a spear and a broadsword of antique form, about 
 eighteen inches long and three broad. The chief and her 
 husband were sitting on skins placed in the middle of a 
 circle thirty paces in diameter, a little raised above the 
 ordinary level of the ground, and having a trench round it. 
 Outside the trench sat about a hundred persons of aU agea 
 and both sexes. The men were well armed with bows, 
 arrows, spears, and broadswords. Beside the husband sat 
 a rather aged wom4i> having a bad outward squint in the 
 
156 COURT ETIQUETTE. 
 
 left eye. We put down our arms about forty yards off, vai 
 I walked up to the centre of the circular bench, and salatcd 
 tiira in the usual way by clapping the hands together in 
 their fashion. He pointed to his wife, as much as to say, 
 The honor belongs to her. I saluted her in the same way. 
 tttd, a mat having been brought, I squatted down in front 
 of them. 
 
 The talker was then called, and I was asked who was 
 my spokesman. Ilaving pointed to Kolimbota, who knew 
 their dialect best, the palaver began in duo form. I ex- 
 plained the real objects I had in view, without any attempt 
 to mystify or appear in any other character than my own, 
 for I have always been satisfied that, even though there 
 were no other considerations, the truthful way of dealing 
 with the uncivilized is unquestionably the best. Kolimbota 
 repeated to Nyamoana's talker what I had said to him 
 He delivered it all verbatim to her husband, who repeated 
 it again to her. It was thus all rehearsed four times over, 
 in a tone loud enough to be heard by the whole party of 
 auditors. The response came back by the same round- 
 about route, beginning at the lady to her husband, &c. 
 
 After explanations and re-oxplanations, I perceived that 
 our new friends wore mixing up my message of peace and 
 friendship with Makololo affairs, and stated that it was 
 not delivered on the authority of any one less than that 
 of their Creator, and that if tho Makololo did again break 
 his laws and attack tho Balonda, tho guilt would rest with 
 tho Makololo and not with mo. Tho palaver then camo to 
 a close. 
 
 By way of gaining their confidence, I showed them my 
 hair, which is considered a curiosity in all this region. They 
 said, " Is that hair ? It is the mane of a lion, and not hair 
 at all." Some thought that I had made a wig of lion's 
 mane, as they sometimes do with fibres of tho " ife," and 
 dye it black and twist it so as to resemble a mass of then 
 own wool. I could not return the joke by telling them 
 that theirs was not hair, but the wool of sheep, for thoy 
 
TJOREASE OS SUrERSTmON. 157 
 
 have none of thoso in tho country ; and oven though they 
 had, aa Herodotus romarkod, " tho African shoop arc clothod 
 with hair, and men's heads 'with wool." So I had to bo 
 content with asserting that mine was tho real original hair, 
 such as theirs would have been had it not boon scorched 
 and fKzzlod by tho sun. . In proof of what the sun could 
 lo, I compared my own bronzed face and hands, then about 
 tho same in complexion as tho lightor-colorcd Makololo, 
 with tho white skin of my chest. They readily believed 
 that, as thoy go nearly naked and fully exposed to that 
 influence, wo might bo of common origin after all. Hero, 
 tts overywhore when heat and moisture are combined, the 
 people arc very dark, but not quite black. There is always 
 a shade of brown in tho most dcej)ly colored. I showed 
 my watch and pockot-compass, which are considered great 
 suriositios; but, though tho lady was called on by her hus- 
 band to look, she would not bo persuaded to approach near 
 enough. 
 
 These people are more superstitious than any we had 
 yet encountered ; though still only building their village, 
 they had found time to erect two little sheds at the chief 
 dwelling in it, in which wore placed two pots having charms 
 in them. When asked what medicine they contained, thoy 
 replied, " Medicine for tho Barimo;" but when I rose and 
 looked into them they said thoy wore medicine for the 
 game. Here we saw tho first evidence of the existence of 
 idolatry, in tho remains of an old idol at a deserted village. 
 It was simply a human head carved on a block of. wood 
 Certain charms mixed with red ochre and white pipe-clay 
 are dotted over them when thoy are in use ; and a crooked 
 stick is used in tho same way for an idol when they have 
 no professional carver. 
 
 As the Leeba seemed still to come from tho direction ip 
 «rhich we wished- to go, I was desirous of proceeding far- 
 ther up with the canoes ; but Nyamoana was anxious that 
 we should aL'.ow her people to conduct us to her brother 
 Shinte; and. when I explained to her the advantage of 
 
 14 
 
158 MODE OP SALUTATION. 
 
 water-carriago, 3ho rcprosonted that hor brother did not 
 live near the river, and, moreover, there was a cataract in 
 front, over which it would bo difficult to convey the canoes 
 Sho was afraid, too, that the Balobalc, whoso country lies 
 to tho west of the river, not knowing the objects for which 
 wo nad come, would kill us. To my reply that I had been 
 80 often threatened with death if I visited a now tribe 
 that I was now more afraid of killing any one than of 
 being killed, she rejoined' that tho Balobalc would not kill 
 mo, but the Makololo would all bo sacrificed as their ono- 
 mics. This produced coiisiderablo effect on my companions, 
 and inclined them to the plan of Nyamoana, of going- to 
 the town of her brother rather than ascending tho Looba. 
 Tho arrival of Mancnko herself on the scene throw so 
 much weight into the scale on their side that I was forced 
 to yield tho point. 
 
 Mancnko was a tall, strapping woman about twenty, dis- 
 tinguished by a profusion of ornaments and medicines hung 
 round her personj tho latter are supposed to act as charms. 
 Uer body was smeared all over with a mixlui-o of fat and 
 red ochre, as a protection against the weather; a necessary 
 precaution, for, like most of tho Balonda ladies, she was 
 otherwise in a state of frightful nudity. This was not from 
 want of clothing; for, being a ohiof, she might have beep 
 as well clad as any of her subjects, but from her peculiai 
 ideas of elegance in dress. "When sho arrived with hoi 
 husband, Sambanza, they listened for some time to tht 
 statements I was making to tho people of IS'yamoana, aftoi 
 which tho husband, acting as spokesman, coramcncod an 
 oration, stating tho reasons for their coming ; and, durinjj 
 ovory two or throe Boconds of the delivery, ho picked up a 
 little sand and rubbed it on the upper part of his arms 
 and chest. This is a common mode of salutation in Londa; 
 iind when they wish to bo excessively polite they bring 
 a quantity of ashes or pipe-clay in a piece of skin, and, 
 taking u]i liandfuls, rub it on the chest and upper front 
 part of cacli arm ; others, in saluting, drum thc'r ribs witl. 
 
EMBASSY AND PRESENT FROM MA81K0. 159 
 
 tfaoir olbows ; while others still touch the ground with one 
 check after tte other, and clap their hands. The chiefs go 
 through the manceuvro of rubbing the sand on the arms, 
 but only make a feint of picking up some. When Sam- 
 banza had finished his oration, ho rose up and showed hia 
 ankles ornamented with a bundle of copper rings : had 
 they been very heavy they would have made him adopt a 
 straggling walk. Some chiefs have roaUy so many as to be 
 forced, by the weight and size, to keep one foot apart from 
 the other, the weight being a serious inconvenience in 
 walking. The gcntlonion like Sambanza, who wish to 
 imitate their betters, do so in their walk; so you see men 
 with only a few ounces of ornament on their legs strutting 
 along as if they had double the number of pounds. When 
 I smiled at Sambanza's walk, the people remarked, " That 
 is the way in which they show off their lordship in these 
 parts." 
 
 Manonko was quite decided in the adoption of the policy 
 of friendship with the Makololo which wo recommended ; 
 and, by way of cementing the bond, she and her coun- 
 sellors proposed that Kolimbota should take a wife among 
 them. Kolimbota, I found, thought favorably of the pro- 
 position, and it afterward led to his desertion from us. 
 
 On the evening of the day in which Mancnko arrived, 
 we were delighted by the appearance of Mosiintu and an 
 imposing embassy from Masiko. It consisted of all his 
 under-chiefs; and they brought a fine elephant's tusk, two 
 calabashes of honey, and a large piece of blue baize, as a 
 present. The last was intended perhaps to show me that 
 ho was a truly great chief, who had such stores of white 
 men's goods at hand that ho could afford to give prosenti 
 of them ; it might also be intended for Mosantu, for chiefs 
 usually remember the servants : I gave it to him. Masiko 
 expressed delight, by his principal men, at the return of 
 the captives, and at the proposal of peace and alliance 
 with the Makololo. He stated that he never sold any of 
 his own people to the Mambari, bu* only captives •whom 
 
160 MANENKO A SOOLD. 
 
 his pooplo kidnapped from small neighboring tribos. When 
 the question was put wliethor his pooplo had boon in 
 tho habit of molesting tho Makololo by kidnapping thoir 
 Borvants and stealing canoes, it was admitted that two 
 of his men, when hunting, had gone to the Makololo 
 gardens, to see if any of their relatives were there. Aa 
 tho great object in all native disputes is to get both parties 
 to tuim over a now leaf, I explained the desirableness of 
 forgetting past feuds, accepting the present Makololo pro- 
 fessions as genuine, and avoiding in future to give them 
 any cause for marauding. I presented Masiko with an ox 
 ftirnished by Sekeletu as provision for ourselves. 
 
 We wore now without any provisions, except a small 
 dole of manioc-roots each evening from Nyamoana, which, 
 when eaten raw, produce poisonous effects. A small loaf, 
 made from nearly the last morsel of maize-meal from Li- 
 bonta, was my stock, and our friends from Masiko were 
 still more destitute; yet wo all rejoiced so much at their 
 arrival that we resolved to spend a day with them. The 
 Barotse of our party, meeting with relatives and friends 
 among the Barotse of Masiko, had many old tales to tell ; 
 and, after pleasant hungry converse by day, wa regaled 
 our friends with tho magic lantern by night; and, in order 
 to make the thing of use to all, wo removed our camp up 
 to tho village of Nyamoana. This is a good means of 
 arresting the attention and convoying important facts to 
 the minds of these people. 
 
 "When erecting our sheds at the village, Manenko fell 
 upon our friends from Masiko in a way that left no doubt 
 on our minds but that sho is a most accomplished scold. 
 Masiko had, on a former occasion, sent to Samoana for 
 a cloth, — a common way of keeping up intercourse, — and 
 after receiving it, sent it back, because it had the appear- 
 ance of having had " witchcraft-medicine" on it : this was 
 a grave offence, and now Manenko had a good excuse for 
 venting her spleen, the ambassadors having called at her 
 village and slept in one of the huts without leave. ][f bei 
 
DETAINED BY MANfcWKO 161 
 
 family was to bo Buspectcd of dealing in ovil iharms, why 
 woro Masikofs people not to bo thought guilty of leaving 
 the same in her hut ? She advanced and receded in true 
 oratorical stylo, belaboring her own servants as well for 
 allowing the offence, and, as usual in more civilized fomi- 
 nine lectures, she leaned over the objects of her ire, and 
 screamed forth all their faults and failings ever since they 
 were bom, and her despair of ever seeing them become 
 better until they were all "killed by alligators." Masiko'a 
 people followed the plan of receiving this torrent of abuse 
 in eilonco, and, as neither we nor they had any thing to 
 eat, we parted next morning. In reference to Masiko 
 selling slaves to the Mambari, thoy promised to explain 
 the relationship which exists between even the most abject 
 of his people and our common Father; and that no more 
 kidnapping ought to be allowed, as he ought to give that 
 peace and security to the smaller tribes on his eastern 
 borders which ho bo much desired to obtain himself from 
 the Makololo. We promised to return through his town 
 when wo came back from the sea-coast. 
 
 Manenko gave us some manioc-roots in the morning, 
 and had determined to carry our baggage to her uncle's, 
 Kabompo or Shinte. We had heard a sample of what 
 she could do with her tongue ; and, as neither my men nor 
 myself had much inclination to encounter a scolding from 
 this black Mrs. Caudle, we made ready the packages ; but 
 she came and said the men whom she had ordered for the 
 service had not yet come : thoy would arrive to-morrow. 
 Being on low and disagreeable diet, I felt annoyed at this 
 further delay, aud ordered the packages to bo put into tho 
 canoes to proceed up tho river without her servants. But 
 Manenko was not to bo circumvented in this way: she 
 came forward with her people, and said her uncle would 
 bo angry if she did not carry forward the tusks and goods 
 of Sekeletu, seized tho luggage, and declared that she 
 would carry it in spite of me. My men succumbed sooner 
 to this petticoat-government than I felt inclined to do, and 
 L 14» 
 
162 OHARMS. 
 
 left mo no power; and, being unwilling to encoanter h« 
 tongue, I was moving off to the canoes, when she gave me 
 A kind explanation, and, with her hand on my shoulder, 
 put on a motherly look, saying, "Now, my little man, just 
 do as the rest have done." My feelings of annoyance of 
 coarse vanished. 
 
 CHAPTEE XVI. 
 
 DE. LIVINQSTONK VISITS 8HINTE, CHIEF OP THE BALONDA. 
 
 Wth of January, 1854. — On starting this morning, Samoana 
 (or rather Nyamoana, for the ladies are the chiefs here) 
 presented a string of beads, and a shell highly valued 
 among them, as an atonement for having assisted Manonko, 
 16 they thought; to vex me the day before. They seemed 
 anxious to avert any evil which might arise from my dis- 
 pleasure ; but, having replied that I never kept my anger 
 up all night, they were much pleased to see mo satisfied 
 We had to cross, in a canoe, a stream which flows past 
 the village of Nyamoana. Mancnko's doctor waved some 
 charms over her, and she took some in her hand and on 
 her body before she ventured upon the water. One of ray 
 men spoke rather loudly when near the doctor's basket of 
 medicines. The doctor reproved him, and always spoke 
 in a whisper himself, glnnoing back to the basket as if 
 a£raid of being heard by something therein. So much 
 superstition is quite unknown in the south, and is men- 
 tioned here to show the difference in the feelings of this 
 now people, and the comparative want of reverence on 
 those points among Caffres and Bechuanas. 
 
 Manenko was accompanied by her husband and her 
 drummer, the latter continued to thump most vigorously 
 ontil a heavy, drizzling mist sot in and compelled him to 
 
HUNOEB 163 
 
 desist. Her husband used various incantations and vocife 
 rations to drive away the • rain, but down it poured inces- 
 santly, and on our Amazon wont in the very lightest 
 marching-order, and at a pace that few of the men could 
 keep up with. Ecing on ox-back, I kept pretty dose to 
 our leader, and asked her why she did not clothe herself 
 during the rain, and learned that it is not considered proper 
 for a chief to appear effeminate. Ho or she must alwaya 
 wear the appearance of robust youth and bear vicissitudes 
 without wincing. My men, in admiration of her pedestrian 
 powers, every now tu.d ihen remarked, "Manonko is a 
 soldier;" and, thoroughly wet and cold, we were all glad 
 when she proposed a halt to prepare our night's lodging 
 on the banks of a stream. 
 
 Next day wo passed through a piece of forest so dense that 
 no one could have penetrated it without an axe. It was 
 flooded, not by the river, but by the heavy rains which 
 poured down every day and kept those who had clothing 
 constantly wet. I observed in this piece of forest a very 
 strong smell of sulphuretted hydrogen. This I had observed 
 repeatedly in other parts before. I had attacks of foyer 
 of the intermittent type again and again, in consequence 
 of repeated drenchings in these unhealthy spots. 
 
 On the 11th and 12th we were detained by incessant 
 rains, and so heavy I never saw the like in the south. I 
 had a little tapioca and a small quantity of Libonta meal, 
 which I still reserved for worse times. The patience of 
 my men under hunger was admirable ; the actual want of 
 the present is never so painful as the thought of getting 
 nothing in the future. "We thought the people of some 
 large hamlets very niggardly and very independent of their 
 lihiefs, for they gave us and Manonko nothing, though they 
 had largo fields of maize in an eatable state around them. 
 When she went and kindly begged some for me, they gave 
 her five cars only. They were subjects of her uncle,-and, 
 had they bctsn Makololo, would have been lavish in theii 
 gifts to the niece of their chief. I suspected that thoj 
 
IM DENSE FORESTS. 
 
 were dependents of some of Shinte's principal men, and 
 had no power to part with tho maize of their masters. 
 
 The forests became more dense as we went north. We 
 travelled much more in the deep gloom of the forest thsa 
 m open sunlight. No passage existed on either side of the 
 narrow path made by tho axe. Largo climbing plants 
 entwined themselves around tho trunks and branches of 
 gigantic trees like boa-constrictors, and they often do con- 
 strict the trees by which they rise, and, killing them, stand 
 erect themselves. The bark of a fine tree found in abun- 
 dance hero, and called "motuia," is used by the Earotse for 
 making fish-linos and nets, and the "molompi," so well 
 adapted for paddles by its lightness and flexibility, was 
 abundant. There were other trees quite new to my com- 
 panion's : many of them ran up to a height of fifty feet of 
 one thickness, and without branches. 
 
 In these forests we first encountered the artificial bee- 
 hives so commonly met with all the way from this to 
 Angola. They consist of about five feet of the bark of a 
 tree fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter. Two incisions 
 are made right round the tree at points five feet apart, 
 then one longitudinal slit from one of these to the other ; 
 tho workman next lifts up the bark on each side of this slit, 
 and detaches it from the trunk, taking care not to break it, 
 until the whole comes from the tree. Tho elasticity of tho 
 bark makes it assume the form it had before ; tho slit is 
 sewed or pegged up with wooden pins, and ends made of 
 coiled grass rope are inserted, one of which has a Jiole for 
 tho ingress of tho bees in tho centre, and tho hivo is com- 
 plete. These hives are placed in a horizontal position on 
 high trees in difibrent parts of tho forest, and in this way 
 all tho wax exported from Bcnguela and Loanda is col- 
 lected. It is all the produce of free labor. A "pieco Oj 
 medicine" is tied round tho trunk of the tree, and proves 
 sufficient protection against thieves. The natives seldom 
 rob each other, for all believe that certain medicines can 
 inflict disease and death * and, though they consider Khmt 
 
NATURAL WELLS. lA 
 
 these are only known to a few, they act on the principle 
 that it is hest to let thorn all alone. The gloom of those 
 forests strengthens the superstitious feelings of the people. 
 In other quarters, where they are not subjected to this 
 inflaence, I have heard the chiefs issue proclamations to 
 the effect that real witchcraft-medicines had been placed at 
 certain gardens from which produce had boon stolon, the 
 thieycs having risked the power of the ordinary charms 
 preyiously placed there. 
 
 There was considerable pleasure, in spite of rain and 
 fever, in this new scenery. The deep gloom contrasted 
 strongly with the shadoless glare of the Kalahari, which 
 had loft an indelible impression on my memory. Though 
 drenched day by day at this time, and for months after- 
 ward, it was long before I could believe that we wore 
 getting too much of a good thing. Nor could I look at 
 water being thrown away without a slight, quick impros 
 sion flitting across the mind that wo were guilty of wast- 
 ing it. Every now and then wo emerged from the deep 
 gloom into a pretty little valley, having a damp portion in 
 the middle ; which, though now filled with water, at other 
 times contains moisture enough for wells only. These weUs 
 have shades put over them in the form of little huts. 
 
 We crossed, in canoes, a little never-failing stream, which 
 passes by the name of Lofuje, or " the rapid." It comes 
 from a goodly high mountain, called Monakadzi, (the 
 woman,) which gladdened our eyes as it rose to our sight 
 about twenty or thirty miles to the east of our course. It 
 is of an oblong shape, and seemed at least eight hundred 
 feet above the plains. The Lofuje probably derives its 
 name from the rapid descent of the short course it has to 
 flow from Monakadzi to the Leoba. 
 
 The number of little villages seemed about equal to the 
 number of valleys. At some we stopped and rested, the 
 people becoming more liberal as we advanced. Others we 
 found deserted, a sudden panic having seized the inhabit- 
 •ati| though the drum of Nanenko was kept beaten prottgr 
 
166 LENDING ROOFS OP HUTS. 
 
 coDBtantly, in order to give notice of the approach of great 
 people. When wo had decided to remain for the night at 
 any village, the inhabitants lent us the roofs of their huts, 
 which in form resemble those of the Makololo, or a China- 
 man's hat, and can bo taken off the walls at ploaanro. 
 rhoy lifted them off, and brought them to the spot wo had 
 selected as our lodging, and, when my men had propped 
 them up with stakes, they were then safely housed for the 
 night. Every one who comes to salute either Manenko or 
 ourselves rubs the upper parts of the arms and chest with 
 ashoo ; those who wish to show profounder reverence put 
 some also on the face. 
 
 "We found that every village had its idols near it. This 
 is the case all through the country of the Balonda, so that, 
 when wo came to an idol in tho woods, we always knew 
 that we were within a quarter of an hour of human habi- 
 tations. One very ugly idol we passed rested on a hori- 
 Eontal beam placed on tw.o upright posts This beam was 
 furnished with two loops of cord, as of a chain, to suspend 
 offerings before it On remarking to my companions that 
 these idols had ears, but that thoy heard not, &c., I learned 
 that the Balonda, and oven tho Barotsc, believe that divina- 
 tion may bo performed by means of these blocks of wood 
 and clay; and, though the wood itself could not hear, the 
 owners had medicines by which it could be made to hoar 
 and give responses, so that if an enemy were approaching 
 thoy would have full information. Manenko having brought 
 us to a stand on account of slight indisposition and a desire 
 to send forward notice of our approach to her uncle, 1 
 liskod why it was necessary to send forward information 
 of our movements if Shinto had idols who could tell him 
 every thing. "She did it only,"* was tho reply. It is 
 soldom of much use to show one who worships idols the 
 folly of idolatry without giving something else as an object 
 
 * This is a corioDB African idiom, by which a person implies he hwl no 
 partioolar reason for his act 
 
MANENKO'8 WHIMS. 167 
 
 of adoration instead. Thoy lo not love them. They feai 
 them, and betake themselves to their idols only when in 
 perplexity and danger. 
 
 While delayed, by Manenko's management, among the 
 Balonda villages, a little to the south of the town of 
 Shinte, we were well supplied by the villagers with sweet 
 potatoes and groon maize : Sambanza went to his mother's 
 village for supplies of other food. I was laboring under 
 fever, and did not find it very diflScult to exercise patience 
 with her whims; but, it being Saturday, I thought we 
 might as well go to the town for Sunday, (15th.) " No : 
 her messenger must return from her uncle first." Being 
 sure that the answer of the imclo would bo favorable, 1 
 thought we might go on at once, and not lose two days in 
 the same spot. "No: it is our custom ;" and every thing 
 else I could urge was answered in the genuine pertinacious 
 lady style. She ground some meal for me with her own 
 hands, and when she brought it told me she had actually 
 gone to a village and begged corn for the purpose. She 
 said this with an air as if the inference must bo drawn by 
 even a stupid wnite man, "I know how to manage, don't 
 I ■("' It was refreshing to got food which could bo eaten 
 without producing the unpleasantness described by the 
 Eov. John Newton, of St. Mary's, Woolnoth, London, 
 when obliged to eat the same roots while a slave in the 
 West Indies. The day, (January 14th,) for a wonder, wai 
 fair, and the sun shone, so as to allow us to dry our cloth- 
 ing and other goods, many of which were mouldy and 
 rotten from the long-continued damp. The guns rusted, 
 in spite of being oiled every evening. 
 
 On Sunday afternoon, messengers arrived from Shinto, 
 expressing his approbation of the objects we had in view 
 in our journey through the country, and that he was glad 
 of the prospect of a way being opened by which white 
 men might visit and allow him to purchase ornaments at 
 pleasure. Manonko now threatened in sport to go on, and 
 I soon afterward perceived that what now seemed to me 
 
168 MODE or APjaOACHING VILLAGES. 
 
 the dilly-dallying way of Ifhis lady was tne proper moda 
 of making acquaintance with the Balondaj and much of 
 the favor with which I was received in different platoa 
 was owing to my sending forward messengers to state the 
 object of our coming before entering each town and vil- 
 lage. When we came in sight of a village, we sat down 
 under the shade of a tree and sent forward a man to give 
 notice who we were and what were our objects. The head- 
 man of the village then sent out his principal men, as 
 Bhinte now did, to bid us wolcomo and show us a tree 
 under which wo might sleep. Before I had profiied by the 
 rather tedious teaching of Manenko, I sometimes entered 
 a vUlago and created unintentional alarm. The villagers 
 would continue to look upon us with suspicion as long as 
 we remained. Shinto sent us twe large baskets of manioc 
 and six dried fishes. His men had the skin of a monkey, 
 called in their tongue "pohima," {Colobus.gueresa,) o£ a jot- 
 black color, except the long mane, which is pure white : it 
 is said to be found in the north, in the country of Mati- 
 amvo, the paramount chief of all the Balonda. Wo 
 learned from them that they are in the habit of praying 
 to their idols when unsuccessful in killing game or in any 
 other enterprise. They behaved with reverence at our re- 
 ligious services. This will appear important if the reader 
 remembers the almost total want of prayer and rovorenco 
 wo encountered in the south. 
 
 Our fHonds informed us that Shinto would bo highly 
 honored by the presence of three white men in his town 
 at once. Two others had sent forward notice of their ap- 
 proach from another quarter, (the west ;) could it bo Earth 
 or Krapf ? How pleasant to meet with Europeans in such 
 in out-of-the-way region I The rush of thoughts made me 
 ftlraost forgot my fever. Are they of the same color ns 1 
 am? "Yes; exactly so." And have the same hair? "Is 
 that hair? we thought it was a wig; we never saw the 
 like before : this white man must be of tho sort that lives 
 ia the sea." Henceforth my men took tho hint, and alwayi 
 
A MERMAN. 16V 
 
 sonnded my praises as a true specimen of tbo variety of 
 white men who live in the sea. " Only look at his hair ; it 
 is made quite straight by the sea-water I" 
 
 I explained to them again and again that, when it was 
 said we came out of the sea, it did not moan that we came 
 from beneath the water; but the fiction has been widely 
 ipread in the interior by the Mambari that the real white 
 men Lvo in the sea, and the myth was too good not to be 
 taken advantage of by my companions : so, notwithstand- 
 ing my injunctions, I believe that, when I was out of hear- 
 ing, my men always represented themselves as led by a 
 genuine merman : "Just see his hair!" If I returned from 
 walking to a little distance, they would remark of some to 
 whom they had been holding forth, " These people want tc 
 see your hair." 
 
 As the strangers had woolly hair like themselves, I had 
 to give up the idea of meeting any thing more European 
 than two half-caatc Portuguese engaged in trading for 
 slaves, ivory, and bees' -wax. 
 
 16th. — After a short march we came to a most lovely valley 
 about a mile and a half wide, and stretching away east- 
 ward up to a low prolongation of Monakadzi. A small 
 stream meanders down the centre of this pleasant green 
 glen; and on a little rill, which flows into it from the 
 western side, stands the town of Kabompo, or, as he likec 
 best to bo called, Shinte. (Lat. 12° 37' 35" S., long. 22° 
 47' E.) When ifanenko thought the sun was high enough 
 for us to make a lucky entrance, wo found the town em- 
 bowered in banana and other tropical trees having great 
 expansion of leaf; the streets aro straight, and present a 
 complete contrast to those of the Bochuanas, which are all 
 very tortuous. Here, too, wo first saw native huts with 
 square walls and round roofs. Goats were browsing about, 
 and, when wo made our appearance, a crowd of negrroes, 
 all fully armed, ran toward us as if they would eat us up; 
 some had gsms, but the manner in which they were held 
 ghowcd that the owners were more accustomed to bowe 
 
 16 I 
 
170 SLAVE TRADERS. 
 
 and arrows than to white men's weapons. After surround 
 ing and staring at us for an hour, they began to disperse. 
 
 The two native Portuguese traders of whom we had hoard 
 had erected a little encampment opposite the place whore 
 ours was about to be made. One of them, whose spine 
 had been injured in youth, — a rare sight in this country, — 
 came and visited us. I returned the visit next morning. 
 His tall companion had that sickly yellow hue which made 
 him look fairer than myself, but his head was covered with 
 a crop of unmistakable wool. They had a gang of young 
 female slaves in a chain, hoeing the ground in front of their 
 encampment to clear it of weeds and grass ; these wore 
 purchased recently in Lobalo, whence the traders had now 
 lomo. There were many Mambari with them, and the 
 istablishmont was conducted with that military order which 
 pervades all the arrangements of the Portuguese colonists. 
 A drum was beaten and trumpet sounded at certain hours, 
 quite in military, fashioii. It was the first time most of my 
 men had seen slaves in chains. " They are not men," they 
 exclaimed, (moaning, they are beasts,) "who treat their 
 children so." 
 
 The Balonda are real negroes, having much more woo) 
 on their heads and bodies than any of the Bechuana oi 
 Caffre tribes. They are generally very dark in color, bui 
 several arc to bo seen of a lighter hue ; many of the slaves 
 who have been exported to Brazil have gone from this 
 region; but, while they have a general similarity to the 
 typical negro, I never could, from my own observation, 
 think that our ideal negro, as seen in tobacconists' shops, 
 is the true typo. A large proportion of the Balonda, indeed, 
 have heads somewhat elongated backward and upward, 
 thick lips, flat noses, elongated ossa calces, &c. &c. ; but there 
 are also many good-looking, well-shaped heads and persons 
 among them. 
 
 17th, Tuesday. — ^We were honored with a grand recep- 
 tion by Shinte about eleven o'clock. Sambanza claimed 
 the honor of presenting us, Manenko being slightly indis- 
 
REOEPnOM ST SHINTB 171 
 
 posod. Tho native Portuguese and Mambari wont folly 
 armed with guns, in order to give Shinte a salute, their 
 drummer and trumpeter making all tho noiso that very 
 old instruments would produce. Tho kotla, or place of 
 Kudience, was about a hundred yards square, and two 
 graceful specimens of a species of banian stood near one 
 ond; under one of these sat Shinto, on a sort of throne 
 covered with a leopard's skin. Ho had on a chocked 
 jacket and a kilt of scarlot baize edged with green ; many 
 ■trings of large beads hung from his neck, and his limbs 
 were covered wivh iron and copper armlets and bracelets, 
 on his head ho wc^re a holmet made of beads woven neatly 
 together and crowned with a great bunch of goose-feathora. 
 Close to him sat throe lads with, largo sheaves of arrows 
 over their shoulders. 
 
 "When wo ontorooJ tho kotla, tho whole of Manonko's 
 party saluted Shinto by clapping their hands, and Sam- 
 banza did obeisance by rubbing his chest and arms with 
 ashes. One of tho trees being unoccupied, I retreated to 
 it for tho sake of tho shade, and my whole party did the 
 same. We were now about forty yards from tho chief, 
 and could see tho wholo ceremony. The difforont sections 
 of the tribe camo forward in tho same way that wo did, 
 the head-man of each making obeisance with ashes which 
 he carried with him for tho purpose ; then camo tho sol- 
 diers, all armed to the tooth, running and shouting toward 
 us, with their swords drawn and their faces screwed up so 
 as to appear as savage as possible, for the pui-poso, I 
 thougJit, of trying whether they could not make us take to 
 our heels. As wo did not, thoy turned round toward 
 Shinto and saluted him, then retired. When all had como 
 and were seated, then began tho curious capering usually 
 seen in pichos. A man starts up, and imitates tho most 
 approved attitudes observed in actual fight, as throwing 
 one javelin, receiving another on tho shield, springing to 
 one side to avoid a third, running backward or forward, 
 leapiag, &c. This over, Sambanza and tho spokesman of 
 
172 BEOEPTION BT SHINTV 
 
 Nyamoana stalked backward and forward in front of 
 Shinte, and gave forth, in a load voice, all they had been 
 able to learn, either from myself or people, of my past his- 
 tory and connection with the Makololo; the return of th 
 captives ; the wish to open the country to trade ; the Bible 
 as a word from heaven; the white man's desire for the 
 tribes to live in peace : he ought to have taught the Ma- 
 kololo that first, for the Ealonda never attacked them, yet 
 they had assailed the Balonda : perhaps he is fibbing, per- 
 haps not : they rather thought he was ; but as the Balonda 
 had good hearts, and Shinte had never done harm to any 
 one, he had better receive the white man well, and send 
 him on his way. Sambanza was gayly attired, and, be- 
 sides a profusion of beads, had a cloth so long that a boy 
 carried it after him as a train. 
 
 Behind Shinto sat about a hundred women, clothed in 
 their best, which happened to bo a profusion of red baize 
 The chief wife of Shinte, one of the Matebele or Zulus, sat 
 in front with a curious red cap on her head. During the 
 intervals between the spoochcs, these ladies burst forth 
 into a sort of plaintive ditty; but it was impossible for any 
 of us to catch whether it was in praise of the speaker, of 
 Shinte, or of themselves. This was the first time I had 
 ever seen females present in a public assembly. In the 
 south the women are not permitted to enter the kotla, 
 and, oven when invited to come to a religious service there, 
 would not enter until ordered to do so by the chief; but 
 here they expressed their apjj^-obation by clapping their 
 hands and laughing to different speakers ; and Shinte fro- 
 qnently turned round and spoke to them. 
 
 A party of musicians, consisting of throe drummers and 
 four performers on the piano, went round the kotla several 
 times, regaling us with their music. Their drums aro 
 neatly carved from the trunk of a tree, and have a small 
 hole in the side covered with a bit of spider's web : the 
 ends are covered with the skin of an antelope pegged on ; 
 Mid, when they wish to tighten it, they hold it to the fin 
 
MUSICAL INSTETTMENTS. 178 
 
 to make it contract : tho instrnmonts arc beaton with th« 
 hjinds. 
 
 The piano, named "marimba," consiBts of two bars of 
 wood placed side by side, hero quite straight, but, farther 
 north, bent round so as to resemble half the tire of a car- 
 riage-whool ; across these are placed about fifteen wooden 
 keys, each of which is two or three inches broad and 
 fifteen or eighteen inches long; their thickness is regu- 
 lated according to tho deepness of the note required : each 
 of the keys has a calabash beneath it; from the upper part 
 of each a portion is cut off to enable them to embrace tho 
 bars, and form hollow sounding-boards to tho keys, which 
 also are of different sizes, according to tho note required ; 
 and little drumsticks elicit tho music. Eapidity of execu- 
 tion seems much admired among them, and the music is 
 pleasant to tho ear. In Angola tho Portuguese use tho 
 marimba in their dances. 
 
 When nine speakers had concluded their orations, Shinto 
 stood up, and so did all the people. Ho had maintained 
 true African dignity of manner all tho while, but my 
 people remarked that he scarcely ever took his eyes off me 
 for a moment. About a thousand people were present, 
 according to my calculation, and three hundred soldiers. 
 The sun had now become hot ; and the scene ended by tho 
 Mambari discharging their guns. 
 
 18th. — We were awakened during the night by a message 
 from Shinto, requesting a visit at a very unseasonable hour 
 As I was just in tho sweating-stage of an intermittent, and 
 tho path to the town lay through a wet valley, I declined 
 going. Kolimbota, who knows their customs best, urged 
 me to go ; but, independent of sickness, I hated words of 
 the night and deeds of darkness. "I was neither a hyena 
 nor a witch." Kolimbota thought that we ought to con- 
 form to their wishes in every thing : I thought we ought 
 to have some choice in the matter as well, which put him 
 into high dudgeon. However, at ten next morning we 
 went, and wore led into the courts of Shinto, tho walk of 
 
174 PRIVATE INTERVIEW WITH SHINTB. 
 
 which were woven rods, all very neat and high. M^^ly 
 trees stood within the enclosure and afforded a grateful 
 shade. These had boon planted, for we saw somi recently 
 put in, with grass wound round the trunk to protect them 
 fi-om the sun. The otherwise waste corners of the streets 
 were planted with sugarcane and bananas, which spread 
 their largo light leaves over the walls. 
 
 The Ficus Indica tree, under which we now sat, had 
 very largo leaves, but showed its relationship to the Indian 
 banian by sending down shoots toward the ground. Shinto 
 soon came, and appeared a man of upward of fifty-fivo 
 years of age, of frank and open countenance, and about 
 the middle height. He seemed in good humor, and said he 
 had expected yesterday " that a man who came from the 
 gods would have approached and talked to him." That 
 had been my own intention in going to the reception j but 
 when we came and saw the formidable preparations, and 
 all his own men keeping at least forty yards off from him, 
 I yielded to the solicitations of my men, and remained by 
 the tree opposite to that under which he sat. His remark 
 confirmed my previous belief that a frank, open, fearless 
 manner is the most winning with all these Africans. I 
 stated the object of my journey and mission, and to all 1 
 advanced the old gentleman clapped his hands in approba- 
 tion. He replied through a spokesman; then all the com- 
 pany joined in the response by clapping of hands too. 
 
 After the more serious business was «vcr, I asked 
 if ho had ever seen a white man before. ^Ho replied, 
 "Never: you are the very first I have seen with a whit-o 
 •kin and straight hair : your clothing, too, is different from 
 any wo have ever seen." They had been visited by native 
 Portuguese and Mambari only. 
 
 On learning from some of the people that "Shinto'i 
 mouth was bitter for want of tasting ox-flesh," I presented 
 him with an ox, to his great delight; and, as his country 
 is so well adapted for cattle, I advised him to begin a trade 
 in cows with the Makololo. He was pleased with the idea, 
 
FERTILITY OF SOU. 17B 
 
 »nd when wo roturnod from Loanda wo found that ho had 
 profited by tho hint, for ho had got three, and one of thom 
 justified ray opinion of tho country, for it was more like a 
 pnzo-hcifer for fatness than any wo had seen in Africa. 
 He soon afterward sont us a basket of greon maize boiled, 
 another of manioc-meal, and a small fowl. 
 
 During this time Manenko had been extremely busy 
 with all her people in getting up a very pretty hut and 
 court-yard, to be, as sho said, her residence always when 
 white men wore brought by her along the same path. 
 When she heard that we had given an ox to her uncle, 
 she came forward to us with tho air of one wronged, and 
 explained that " this white man belonged to her ; she had 
 brought him here, and therefore the ox was hers, not 
 Shinte's." Sho ordered her men to bring it, got it slaugh- 
 tered by them, and presented her undo with a leg only. 
 Shinto did not seem at all annoyed at tho occurrence. 
 
 IQth. — I was awakened at an early hour by a messenger 
 from Shinto ; but, the thirst of a raging fever being just 
 assuaged by the bursting forth of a copious perspiration, I 
 declined going for a few hours. Violent action of the 
 acart all the way to the town did not predispose me to be 
 patient with tho delay which then occurred, probably on 
 account of tho divination being unfavorable : — " They could 
 not find Shinto." When I returned to bed, another mes-^ 
 sago was received : — " Shinto wished to say all he had to 
 toll me at once." This was too tempting an offer; so we 
 went, and ho had a fowl ready in his hand to present, also 
 a basket of manioc-meal, and a calabash of mead. Eefor- 
 ring to the constantly-recurring attacks of fever, he re- 
 marked that it was tho only thing which would prevent 
 a successful issue to my journey, for ho had men to guide 
 me who knew all tho paths which led to the white men. 
 He had himself travelled far when a young man. On 
 asking what he would recommend for the fever, "Drink 
 plenty of the mead, and as it gets in it will drive the fever 
 out." It was rather strong, and I suspect ho likod the 
 
176 KIDNAPPING 
 
 remedy pretty well, ovon though ho had no fever. He had 
 always boon a friend to Sebituane ; and, now that his son 
 Sekoletu was in his place, Shinte was not merely a friend, 
 but a father to him ; and if a son asks a favor the father 
 must give it. Ho was highly pleased with the large cala- 
 bashes of clarified butter and fat which Sekcleta had sent 
 him, and wished to detain Kolimbota, that ho lAight send 
 a present back to Sekeletu by his hands. This ^jroposition 
 we afterward discovered was Kolimbota's own, as he had 
 hoard so much about the ferocity of the tribes through 
 which wo wore to pass that he wished to save his skin. 
 It will be soon farther on that ho was the only oae of our 
 party who returned with a wound. 
 
 An incident which occurred while wo were hero may be 
 mentioned, as of a character totally unknown in the south. 
 Two children, of seven and eight years old, went out to 
 collect firewood a short distance from their parents' homo, 
 which was a quarter of a milo from the village, and were 
 kidnapped ; the distracted parents could not find a trace of 
 them. This happened so close to the town, where there 
 are no beasts of prey, that we suspect some of the high 
 men of Shinte's court were the guilty parties : they can 
 sell them by night. Tho Mambari erect largo huts of a 
 square shape to stow these stolen ones in ; they are well fed, 
 but aired by night only. The frequent kidnapping from 
 outlying hamlets explains tho stockades we saw around 
 them : the parents have no redress, for even Shinte hiDMielf 
 Booms fond of working in tho dark. One night he sent for 
 me, though I always stated I liked all my dealings to be 
 ftbovoboard. When I came, ho presented me witn a siave- 
 girl about ten years old : he said he had always been in thf 
 habit of presenting his visitors with a child. On my 
 thanking liim, and saying that I thought it wrong to take 
 away children from their parents, that I wished him to 
 give up this system altogether and trade in cattle, ivory, 
 and bees' -wax, ho urged that sho was "to be a child" to 
 bring me water, and that a groat man ought to have a 
 
MAOIO LANTERN. l77 
 
 ohild for the purpose, yet I had none. As 1 replied that 1 
 had four children, and should he very sorry if my chief wero 
 to take my little girl and give her away, and that 1 would 
 prefer this child to remain and carry water for her own 
 mother, he thought I was dissatisfied with her size, and 
 gent for one a head taller. After many explanations of our 
 abhorrence of slavery, and how displeasing it must he to 
 God to see his children selling one another and giving each 
 other so much grief as this child's mother must feel, I 
 declined her also. If I could have taken her into my family 
 for the purpose of instruction, and then returned her as a 
 free woman, according to a promise I should have made to 
 the parents, I might have done so ; but to take her away, 
 and probably never be able to secure her return, would have 
 produced no good eflfect on the minds of the Balonda ; they 
 would not then have seen evidence of our hatred to slavery, 
 and the kind attentions of my friends would, as it almost 
 always docs in similar cases, have turned the poor thing's 
 head. 
 
 Shinte was most anxious to see the pictures of the magic 
 lantern ; but fever had so weakening an eifect, and I had 
 such violent action of the heart, with buzzing in the ears, 
 that I could not go for several days; when I did go for the 
 purpose he had his principal men and the same crowd of 
 court beauties near him as at the reception. The first 
 picture exhibited was Abraham about to slaughter his son 
 Isaac : it was shown as large as life, and the uplifted knife 
 was in the act of striking the lad; the Balonda men re- 
 marked that the picture was much more like a god than 
 Ihe things of wood and clay they worshipped. I explained 
 that this man was the first of a race to whom God had 
 given the Bible we now held, and that among his children 
 om- Savior appeared. The ladies listened with silent awe; 
 but, when I moved the slide, the uplifted dagger moving 
 toward them, they thought it was to bo sheathed in their 
 bodies instead of Isaac's. " Mother ' mother I" all shouted 
 at once, and off they rushed, h:jlter-8kelter, tumbling pell- 
 M 
 
178 DELAY — HEAVY EAIN«. 
 
 mell over each other, and over the little idol-huts and 
 tobacco-bushes; we could not got one of them back again. 
 8hinte, however, sat bravely through the whole, and after- 
 ward examined the instrument with interest. An explana- 
 tion was always added after each time of showing its 
 powers, so that no one should imagine there was aught 
 iupernatural in it ; and had Mr. Murray, who kindly brought 
 it from England, seen its popularity among both Makololo 
 and jBalonda, he would have been gratified with the direo- 
 tion his generosity then took. It was the only mode of 
 instruction I was ever pressed to repeat. The peopie came 
 long distances for the express purpose of seeing the objects 
 and healing the explanations. 
 
 One cannot get away quickly from these chiefs; they 
 like to have the honor of strangers residing in their vil- 
 lages. Here we had an additional cause of delay in fre- 
 quent rains : twenty-four hours never elapsed without 
 heavy showbrs j every thing is affected by the dampness ; 
 surgical instmments become all rusty, clothing mildewed, 
 and shoes mouldy; my little tent was now so rotten and so 
 full of small holes that every smart shower caused a fine 
 mist to descend on my blanket, and made me fain to cover 
 the head with it. Heavy dews lay on every thing in the 
 morning, even inside the tent ; there is only a short time 
 of sunshine in the afternoon, and even that is so interrupted 
 by thunder-showers that we cannot dry our bedding. 
 
 The winds coming from the north always bring heavy 
 olouds and rain; in the south, the only heavy rains noticed 
 are those which come from the northeast or east. The 
 thermometer falls as low as 72° when there is no sunshine, 
 though, when the weather is fair, the protected thermo- 
 meter generally rises as high as 82° even in the mornings 
 ftnd evenings. 
 
 24<A. — We expected to have started to-day ; but Sambanza, 
 who had been sent off early in the morning for guides, re- 
 tamed at mid-day without them, and drunk. As far as we 
 oonld eollact from his incoherent sentences. Shinte had said 
 
fARBWBLL TO SHINTE. 179 
 
 the rain was too heavy for our departure, and the goides 
 still required time for preparation. Shinte himself WM 
 busy getting some meal ready for my use in the journey. 
 Afl it rained nearly all day, it was no sacrifice to submit to 
 his advice and remain. Sambanza staggered to Manenko's 
 hat: she, however, who had never promised "to love, 
 honor, and obey him," had not been "nursing her wratb 
 to keep it warm;" so she coolly bundled him into the hut, 
 and put him to bed. 
 
 As the last proof of friendship, Shinte came into my tent, 
 though it could scarcely contain more than one person, 
 looked at all the curiosities, the quicksilver, the looking- 
 glass, books, hair-brushes, comb, watch, &c. &c., with the 
 greatest interest; then, closing the tent, so that none of his 
 own people might see the extravagance of which he was 
 about to be guilty, he drew out from his clothing a string 
 of beads and the end of a conical shell, which is consi- 
 dered, in regions far from the sea, of as great value as {he 
 Lord Mayor's badge is in London. He hung it round my 
 neck, and said, " There, now you Jiave a proof of my friend- 
 ship." 
 
 My men informed me that these shells are so highly 
 valued in this quarter, as evidences of distinction, that for 
 two of them a slave might be bought, and five would be 
 considered a handsome price for an elephant's tusk worth 
 ten pounds. At our last interview old Shinte pointed out 
 our principal guide, Intemese, a man about fifty, who was, 
 he said, ordered to remain by us tUl we should reach the 
 sea; that I had now loft Sekeletu fT.r behind, and must 
 henceforth look to Shinte alone for aid, and that it would 
 always be most cheerfully rendered. This was only a 
 polite way of expressing his wishes for my success. It was 
 the good words only of the guides which were to aid me 
 from the next, chief, Katema, on to the sea; they were to 
 turn back on reaching him ; but he gave a good supply of 
 food for the journey before us, and, after mentioning as a 
 r^oBon for letting us go even now that no one oould say 
 
180 HANIOO-GABDJSNS. 
 
 that wo had been driven away from the town, sinco we had 
 been several days with him, bo gave a most hearty salata* 
 bon, and wo parted with tho wish that God might bleoi 
 liim. 
 
 CHAPTBE XVn. 
 
 BE. UVINOSTONi; PASSES THROUOH LONDA AND VISITI 
 KATEMA. 
 
 26th. — Leaving Shinte, with eight of his men to aid in 
 carrying our luggage, wo passed, in a northerly direction, 
 down the lovely valley on which the town stands, then 
 went a little to the west through pretty open forest, and 
 glopt at a village of Balonda. In the morning we had a 
 fine' range of green hills, called Saloisho, on our right, and 
 were informed that they wero rather thickly inhabited 
 by the people of Shinte, who worked in iron, the ore of 
 which abounds in these hills. 
 
 The country through which we passed possessed the same 
 general character of flatness and forest that we noticed 
 before Tho soil is dark with a tinge of red — in some 
 places it might be called red — and appeared very fertile 
 Every valley contained villages of twenty or thirty huts, 
 with gardens of manioc, which here is looked upon as the 
 ■tafF of life. Very little labor is required for its cultiva- 
 tion , Tho earth is drawn up into oblong beds, about thro* 
 feet broad and ono in height, and in these are planted 
 pieces of the manioc-stalk, at four foot apart A crop of 
 jooans or groundnuts is sown between them, and when 
 these are reaped the land around the manioc is cleared of 
 weeds. In from ten to eighteen months after planting, ac- 
 cording to tho quality of tho soil, the roots are fit for food. 
 Thoro is no necessity for reaping soon, as tho roots do not 
 become bitter and dry until after three years. When a 
 
TTLIiAaES BEYOND THE LONAJE 18) 
 
 woman takes up the roots, she thrusts a piece or (wo of 
 the upper stalks into the hole she has made, draws baok 
 the soil, and a new crop is thereby begun. The plant grows 
 to a height of six feet, and every part of it is useful ; the 
 loayes may be cooked as a vegetable. The roots are irom 
 three to four inches in diameter, and from twelve tc 
 eighteen inches long. 
 
 There are two varieties of the manioc or cassava,— one 
 eweet and wholesome, the other bitter and containing 
 poison, but much more speedy in its growth than tht/ 
 former This last property causes its perpetuation. 
 
 Our chief guide, Intemese, sent orders to all the villages 
 around our route that Shinte's fi-iends must have abundance 
 of provisions. Our progress was impeded by th» time re- 
 quisite fbr communicating the chiefs desire and consequent 
 preparation of meal. We received far more food from 
 Shinte's people than A-om himself. Kapende, for instance, 
 presented two large baskets of meal, three of manioc-i cots 
 Bteeped and dried in the sun and ready to be converted 
 into flour, three fowls, and seven eggs, with three smoke- 
 dried fishes ; and others gave with similar liberality. I 
 gave to the head-men small bunches of my stock of beads, 
 with an apology that we were now on our way to tne 
 market for these goods. The present was always politely 
 received. 
 
 After crossing the Lonaje, we came to some pretty vil- 
 lages, embowered, as the negro villages usually are, in 
 bananas, shrubs, and manioc, and near the banks of the 
 Leeba we formed our encampment in a nest of serpents, 
 one of which bit one of our men ; but the wound waa 
 harmless. The people of the surrounding villages pro 
 seated us with large quantities of food, in obedience to 
 the mandate of Shinte, without expecting any equivalent 
 One village had lately been transferred hither from the 
 ooantry of Matiamvo. They, of course, continue to ac- 
 knowledge him a» paramount chief; but the frequent in* 
 stances which occur of people qhanging &om one port of 
 
t82 OBOSBINO THE LE£Ba. 
 
 tho ooontiy to another show that the great chiefs possess 
 only a limited power. The only peculiarity we observed in 
 these people is the habit of plaiting the beard into a three- 
 fold oord. 
 
 The town of the Balonda chief Cazembe was pointed 
 out to us as lying to the N.B. and by E. from the town of 
 ^inte, and great numbers of people in this quarter have 
 gone thither for the purpose of purchasing copper anklets, 
 made at Cazembe' s, and report the distance to be about five 
 days' journey. 
 
 It took us about four hours to cross the Leeba, which is 
 considerably smaller here than where we left it, — indeed, 
 only about a hundred yards wide. It has the same dark 
 mossy hue. The villagers lent us canoes to effect our pass- 
 age ; and, having gone to a village about two miles beyond 
 the river, I had the satisfaction of getting observations for 
 both longitude and latitude, — for the former, the distance 
 between Saturn and the moon, and for the latter, a meridian 
 altitude of Canopus. Long. 22° 57' B., lat. 12° 6' 6" S. 
 
 Here we were surprised to hear English cotton cloth 
 much more eagerly inquired after than beads and orna- 
 ments. They are more in need of clothing than the Be- 
 cbuana tribes living adjacent to the Kalahari Desert, who 
 have plenty of skins for the purpose. Animals of all kinds 
 are rare here, and a very umaU piece of calico is of great 
 value. 
 
 As the people on the banks of the Leeba were the last 
 of Shinte's tribe over which Intemese had power, he was 
 naturally anxious to remain as long as possible. He waa 
 not idle, but made a large wooden mortar and pestle for 
 his wife during our journey. He also carved many wooden 
 ■poons and a bowl ; then commenced a basket ; but, as 
 what he considered good living was any thing but agreeable 
 to us, who had been accustomed to milk and maize, we went 
 forward on the 2d without him. He soon followed, but left 
 onr pontoon, saying it would be brought by the head-man 
 ef the village. This was a great loss, as we ailerwatd 
 
PLAINS COVERED WITH WATKK. 183 
 
 ftnnd : it remained at this village more thai a year, and, 
 when we returned, a mouse had eaten a hole in it. 
 
 We entered on an extensive plain beyond the Le»ba, at 
 least twenty miles broad, and covered with water ankle 
 deep in the shallowest parts. "We deviated somewhat from 
 our N.W, course, by the direction of Intemese, ard kept 
 the hills Piri nearly on our right during a great part of 
 the first day, in order to avoid the still more deeply-flooded 
 plains of Lobale (Luval?) on the west. These, according 
 to Intemese, are at present impassable on account of being 
 thigh deep. The plains are so perfectly level that rain- 
 water, which this was, stands upon them formonths together 
 They were not flooded by the Leeba, for that was still far 
 within its banks. Here and there, dotted over the surface, 
 are little islands, on which grow stunted date-bushes and 
 scraggy trees. 
 
 We made our beds on one of the islands, and were 
 wretchedly supplied with firewood. The booths constructed 
 by the men were but sorry shelter, for the rain poured 
 down without intermission till mid-day. There is no drain- 
 age for the prodigious masses of water on these plains, ex- 
 cept slow percolation into the difierent feeders of the Leeba 
 and into that river itself. The quantity of vegetation ha« 
 prevented the country from becoming furrowed by many 
 rivulets or " nullahs." Were it not so remarkably flat, the 
 drainage must have been eflPected by torrents, even in spite 
 of the matted vegetation. 
 
 When released from our island by the rain ceasing, we 
 marched on till we came to a ridge of dry inhabited land 
 in the N.W. The inhabitants, according to custom, lent 
 U the roofs of some huts to save the men the trouble of 
 booth-making. I suspect that the story in Park's " Travels," 
 of the men lifting up the hut to place it on the lion, referred 
 to the roof only. We leave them for the villagers to replace 
 at their leisure. No payment is expected for the use of 
 them. By night it rained so copiously that all our beds 
 WOTe flooded from below; and from this time Smih we 
 
184 A HAM. 
 
 always made a furrow round each booth, and used the eartb 
 to raise our sleeping-places. My men turned out to work 
 in the wet most willingly: indeed, they always did. 1 
 could not but contrast their conduct with that of Intemesa 
 He was thoroughly imbued with the slave-spirit, and lied 
 on all occasions without compunction. Untruthflilness ia 
 a sort of refuge for the weak and oppressed. We expected 
 to move on the 4th, but he declared that wo were so near 
 Katezna's, if we did not send forward to apprize that chief 
 of our approach, he would certainly impose a fine. It 
 rained the whole day, so wo were reconciled to the delay j 
 but on Sunday, the 5th, he let us know that we were still 
 two days distant from Katema. We unfortunately could 
 not manage without him, for the country was so deluged 
 we should have been brought to a halt, before we went 
 many miles, by some deep valley, every one of which was 
 foil of water. Intemese continued to plait his basket with 
 all his might, and would not come to our religious service. 
 He seemed to be afraid of our incantations, but wa?. always 
 Kierry and jocular. 
 
 6th. — Soon after starting, we crossed a branch of the Lotc»> 
 lueje by means of a canoe, and in the afternoon passed over 
 the main stream by a like conveyance. The former, as ia 
 the case with all branches of rivers in this country, is 
 called fiuana Kalueje, (child of the Kalueje.) Hippopotami 
 exist in the Lokalueje, so it may be inferred to be peren- 
 nial, as the inhabitants asserted. We cannot judge of the 
 size of the stream from what we now saw. It had aboni 
 forty yards of deep, fast-flowing water, but probably not 
 more than half that amount in the dry season. Besidea 
 these, we crossed numerous feeders in our N.N.W. course, 
 and, there being no canoes, got frequently wet in the courae 
 of the day. The oxen in some places had their heads only 
 above water, and the stream, flowing over their backs, 
 wetted our blankets, which we used as saddles. The arm- 
 pit was the only safo spot for carrying the watch, for there 
 b was preserved from rains above and waters below The 
 
OMNIVORO0B FIBH. 185 
 
 men on foot crossed these gullies holding up their bordent 
 ftt arms' length. 
 
 Great numbers of the omnivorous-feeding fish Qlanii 
 tiluris, or mosala, spread themselves over the flooded plains, 
 and, as the waters retire, try to find their way back again 
 (o the rivers. The Balonda make earthen dikes and 
 bodges across the outlets of the retreating waters, leaving 
 only small spaces through which the chief part of the 
 water flows. In these open spaces they plant creels, simi- 
 tar in shape to our own, into which the fish can enter but 
 cannot return. They secure large quantities of fish in 
 this way, which, when smoke-dried, make a good relish for 
 their otherwise-insipid food. They use also a woir of mats 
 made of reeds sewed together, with but half an inch be- 
 tween each. Open spaces are left for the insertion of the 
 oreels as before. 
 
 In still water, a fish-trap is employed of the same shape 
 and plan as the common round wire mouse-trap, which has 
 an opening surrounded with wires pointing inward. This 
 is made of reeds and supple wands, and food is placed 
 inside to attract the fish. 
 
 Besides these means of catching fish, they use a hook of 
 iron without a barb ; the point is bent inward instead, so 
 as not to allow the fish to escape. Nets are not so common 
 as in the Zouga and Leeambye ; but they kill large quan- 
 tities of fishes by means of the bruised leaves of a shrub 
 which may be seen planted beside every village in the 
 country. 
 
 On the 7th we came to the village of Soana MoliSpo, 
 a half-brother of £!atema, a few miles beyond the Lokb- 
 laeje. When we went to visit him, we found him sitting 
 with about one hundred men. He called on Intemese to 
 give some account of us, though no doubt it had been done 
 in private before. He then pronounced the following sen- 
 tences : — " The journey of the white man is very proper ; 
 but Shinto has disturbed us by showing the path to the 
 Makololo who accompany him. He ought t4> have t^lcao 
 
 X6» 
 
186 OUR glide's PERVBE8ITT. 
 
 them through the country vdthout showing them th4 
 towns. We are afraid of the Makololo." He then gav« 
 as a handsome present of food, and seemed perplexed by 
 my sitting down familiarly and giving him a few of ooi 
 ideas When we left, Intemese continued busily impart. 
 ing an account of all we had given to Shinte and Masiko, 
 and instilling the hope that Soana Molopo might obtain aa 
 much as they had received. Accordingly, when we ex- 
 pected to move on the morning of the 8 th, we got some 
 hints about the ox which Soana Molopo expected to eat ; 
 but we recommended him to get the breed of cattle for 
 himself, seeing his country was so well adapted for rearing 
 stock. Intemese also reiused to move : he, moreover, 
 tried to frighten as into parting with an ox by saying 
 that Soana Molopo would send fo: crard a message that we 
 were a marauding-party; but we packed up and went on 
 without him. We did not absolutely need him ; but he 
 was useful in preventing the inhabitants of secluded vil 
 lages from betaking themselves to flight. We wished to 
 be on good terms with all, and therefore put up with our 
 guide's peccadilloes. His good word respecting us had 
 considerable influence, and he was always asked if we had 
 behaved ourselves like men on the way. The Makololo 
 are viewed as great savages; but Intemese could not 
 justly look with scorn on them, for he has tl>» mark of a 
 large gash on his arm, got in fighting ; and he would never 
 tell the cause of battle, but boasted of his powers, as th« 
 Makololo do, till asked about a scar on his back, betoken- 
 ing any thing but bravery. 
 
 Intemese was useful in cases like that of Monday, when 
 we came upon a whole village in a forest enjoying their 
 noonday nap. Our sudden appearance in their midst so 
 terrified them that one woman nearly went into con* 
 volsions from fear. When they saw and heard Intemese, 
 their terror subsided- 
 
 As usual, we were caught by rains after leaving Soana 
 Ifdopp's, and made our booths at the house of Mozinkwa, 
 
MOZINKTTA AND HIS FAMllT 187 
 
 R most Intelligent and friendly man belonging to Katema. 
 He had a fine large garden in cultivation, and well hedged 
 ronnd. He had made the walls of his compound, or court- 
 yard, of branches of the banian, which, taking root, had 
 grown to be a live hedge of that tree. Mozinkwa's wife 
 had cotton growing all round her premises, and several 
 plants used as relishes to the insipid porridge of th« 
 country. She cultivated also the common castor-oil plant, 
 and a larger shrub (Jatropha curcas) which also yields a 
 purgative oil. Here, however, the oil is used for anointing 
 the heads and bodies alone. We saw in her garden Uke- 
 wise the Indian bringalls, yams, and sweet potatoes. 
 Several trees were planted in the middle of the yard, and 
 in the deep shade they gave stood the huts of his fine 
 &mily. His children, all by one mother, very black, but 
 comely to view, were the finest negro family I ever saw. 
 'We were much pleased with the frank friendship and 
 liberality of this man and his wife. She asked me to bring 
 hor a cloth from the white man's country j but, when we 
 returned, poor Mozinkwa's wife was in her grave, and he, 
 as is the custom, had abandoned trees, garden, and huts to 
 ruin. They cannot live on a spot where a favorite wife 
 has died, probably because unable to bear the remem- 
 brance of the happy times they have spent there, or afraie. 
 to remain in a spot where death has once visited the esta- 
 blishment. If ever the place is revisited, it is to pray to 
 her or make some offering. This feeling renders any per- 
 manent village in the country impossible. 
 
 We learned from Mozinkwa that Soana Molopo was the 
 elder brother of Katema, but that he was wanting in wis- 
 dom ; and Katema, by purchasing cattle and receiving in 
 B kind manner all the fugitives who came to him, had 
 eeonred the birthright to himself, so far as influenoe in the 
 ooantiy is concerned. Soana's first address to ns did not 
 savor much of African wisdom. 
 
 Friday, IQth. — On leaving Mozinkwa's hospitable mansion, 
 we crossed anotjier stream, about forty yards wide, in 
 
188 QUXirDKNDJi'S POLrrEITBBa. 
 
 janoeB. While this tedious process was going on, I was in. 
 formed that it is called the MonarKalueje, or brother of 
 Kaluejk), as it flows into that river ; that both the Kalueja 
 and Livoa flow into the Leebe ; and that the GhiiiimidM^ 
 swollen by the Lotembwa, is a feeder of that river also, 
 below the point where we lately crossed it. 
 
 As we were crossing the river, we were joined by a meai 
 ■enger from Katema, called Shakatwala. This person wai 
 a sort of steward or factotum to his chief Every chief has 
 one attached to his person, and, though generally poor, 
 they are invariably men of great shrewdness and ability. 
 They act the part of messengers on all important occasionB, 
 and possess considerable authority in the chief's house- 
 hold. Shakatwala informed us that Katema had not re< 
 oeived precise information about us, but if we were peaceably 
 disposed, as he loved strangers, we were to come to hia 
 town. We proceeded forthwith, but were turned aside, by 
 the strategy of our friend Intemese, to the village of 
 Quendende, the father-in-law of Katema. This fine old 
 man was so very polite that we did not regret being obliged 
 to spend Sunday at his village. He expressed his pleasure 
 at having a share in the honor of a visit as well as Katema, 
 though it seemed to me that the conferring that pleasure 
 required something like a pretty good stock of impudence, 
 in leading twenty-sleven men through the country without 
 the means of purchasing food. My men did a little busi- 
 ness for themselves in the begging line: they generally 
 oommenced every interview with new villagers by saying, 
 "1 have come from afar; give me something to eat." I 
 forbade this at first, believing that, as the Makololo had a 
 bad name, the villagers gave food from fear. But, after 
 some time, it was evident that in many cases maize and 
 manioc were given from pure generosity. The first time 1 
 came to this conclusion was at the house of Afozinkwa: 
 scarcely any one of my men returned from it withoat 
 something in his hand; and as they protested they had not 
 
CROP OF WOOL. 189 
 
 begged, I asked himself, and found that it was the case, 
 aid that he had given spontaneously. 
 
 Quendonde's head was a good specimoa of the greater 
 crop of wool with which the negroes of Londa are fur 
 nished. The front was parted in the middle, and plaited 
 into two thick rolls, which, falling down behind the oan, 
 reached the shoulders : the rest was collected into a large 
 knot, which lay on the nape of the neck. As he was an 
 intelligent man, wo had much conversation together: he 
 had just come from attending the funeral of one of hii 
 people, and I found that the groat amount of drum-boating 
 which takes place on these occasions was with the idea 
 that the Barimo, or spirits, could be drummed to sleep. 
 There is a drum in every village, and we often hear it going 
 from sunset to sunrise. They seem to look upon the de- 
 parted as vindictive beings, and, I suspect, are more in- 
 fluenced by fear than by love. In beginning to speak on 
 religious subjects with those who have never heard of Chris- 
 tianity, the great fact of the Son of God having come down 
 from hoavon to die for us is the prominent theme. No fact 
 more striking can be mentioned. " He actually came to 
 men. He himself told us about his Father and the dwell- 
 ing-place whither he has gone. We have his words in this 
 book, and he really endured punishment in our stead from 
 pure love," &c. If this fails to interest them, nothing elsa 
 will succeed. 
 
 We here met with somo people just arrived from the 
 town of Matiamvo, (Muata yanvo,) who had been sent to 
 •nnounce the death of the late chieftain of that name. 
 Matiamvo is the hereditary title, muata meaning lord or 
 chief. The late Matiamvo seems, from the report of theso 
 men, to have become insane, for he is said to have soma* 
 times indulged the whim of running a muck in the town 
 and beheading whomsoever ho met, until he had ^uite a 
 heap of human heads. Matiamvo explained this oC/Uduct 
 by saying that his people were too many, and he '^vanted 
 to diminish them. He had absolute power of life and death. 
 
190 MATlAMVO'S COMD0OT. 
 
 On inquiriug whether hiunan sacrifices were still made, aa 
 in the time of Pereira, at Cazembe's, we were informed 
 that these had never been so common as was represented 
 to Pereira, but that it occasionally happened, when certain 
 charms were needed by the chief, that a man was slaugh- 
 tered for the sake of some part of his body. He added 
 that he hoped the present chief would not act like hit 
 (mad) predecessor, but kill only those who were guilty of 
 witchcraft or theft. These men were very much astonished 
 at the liberty enjoyed by the Makololo; and, when they 
 found that aU my people had cattle, we were told that 
 Matiamvo alone had a herd. One very intelligent man 
 among them asked, " If he should make a canoe, and take 
 it down the river to the Makololo, would he get a cow for 
 it ?" This question, which my men answered in the aflSrma- 
 tive, was important, as showing the knowledge of water- 
 communication from the country of Matiamvo to the 
 Makololo J and the river runs through a fertile country 
 abounding in large timber. K the tribes have intercourse 
 with each other, it exerts a good influence on their chiefs 
 to hear what other tribes think of their deeds. The Ma- 
 kololo have such a bad name, on account of their perpetual 
 forays, that they have not been known in Londa except as 
 ruthless destroyers. The people in Matiamvo' s country 
 submit to much wrong from their chiefs, and no voice can 
 be raised against cruelty, because they are afraid to flee 
 elsewhere. 
 
 We left Quendende's village in company with Quendende 
 aimself, and the principal man of the ambassadors of Ma- 
 tiamvo, avd, after two or three miles' march to the N.W., 
 came to the ford of the Lotembwa, which flows southward. 
 A canoe was waiting to ferry us over, but it was very 
 tedious work ; for, though the river itself was only eighty 
 yards wide, the whole valley was flooded, and we were 
 obliged to paddle more than half a mile to get free of the 
 water. A fire was lit to warm old Quendende and enabla 
 Urn to dry his tobncoo-lMym. The leaves ar* taken from 
 
BUPERSTIMOUS CUSTOMS. 191 
 
 the plant and spread close to the fire until they are quite 
 dry and crisp; they are then put into a snuff-box, which, 
 with a little pestle, serves the purpose of a mill to grind 
 them into powder: it is then used as snuff. As we sat by 
 the fire, the ambassadors communicated their thoughts 
 freely respecting the customs of their race. When a chief 
 dies, a number of servants are slaughtered with him to 
 form his company in the other world. The Barotse followed 
 the same custom ; and this and other usages show them to 
 be genuine negroes, though neither they nor the Balonda 
 resemble closely the typical form of that people. Quen- 
 dende said if he were present on these occasions he would 
 hide his people so that they might not be slaughtered. 
 As we go north, the people become more bloodily super- 
 stitious. 
 
 We were assured that if the late Matiamvo took a fancy 
 to any thing, — such, for instance, as my watch-chain, which 
 was of silver wire, and was a great curiosity, as they had 
 never seen metal plaited before, — ^he would" order a whole 
 village to be brought up to buy it from a stranger. When 
 a slave-trader visited him, he took possession of all his 
 goods ; then, after ten days or a fortnight, he would send 
 out a party of men to pounce upon some considerable 
 village, and, having killed the head-men, would pay for all 
 the goods by selling the inhabitants. This has frequently 
 been the case, and nearly all the visitants he ever had were 
 men of color. On asking if Matiamvo did not know he 
 was a man, and would be judged, in company with those 
 he destroyed, by a Lord who is no respecter of persons, 
 the ambassador replied, "We do not go up to God, as yon 
 do : we are put into the ground." I could not asoertain 
 that even those who have such a distinct perception of the 
 continued existence of departed spirits had any notion of 
 heaven: they appear to imagine the souls to be alwayi 
 near the place of sepulture. 
 
 After crossing the river Lotembwa, we travelled about 
 eight miles, and came to Katema's straggling town, (Ut. 
 
192 FBBHENTATION TO KATEMA 
 
 11" 35' 49" S., long. 22° 27' B.) It is more a collection of 
 villages than a town. Wo were led out about half a 
 mile from the houses, that we might make for ourselves 
 the best lodging wo could of the trees and grass, whiln 
 Intemose was taken to Katoma to undergo the usual pro 
 cess of pumping as to our past conduct and profession! 
 Katema soon afterward sent a handsome present of food. 
 
 Next morning we had a formal presentation, and found 
 Katema seated on a sort of throne, with about three hun- 
 dred men on the ground around, and thirty women, who 
 were said to be his wives, close behind him. The main 
 body of the people, were seated in a semicircle, at a dis 
 tance of fifty yards. Each party had its own head-man 
 stationed at a little distance in front, and, when beckoned 
 by the chief, camo near him as councillors. Intemese gave 
 our history, and Katema placed sixteen large baskets of 
 meal before us, half a dozen fowls, and a dozen eggs, and 
 expressed regret that we had slept hungry : he did not like 
 any stranger to suffer want in his town ; and added, "Cro 
 home and cook and eat, and you will then be in a fit state 
 to speak to me at an audience I will give you to-morrow." 
 Ho was busily engaged in hearing the statements of a large 
 body of fine young men who had fled from Kangenko, 
 chief of Lobale, on account of his selling their relatives to 
 the native Portuguese who frequent his country. Katema 
 is a tall man, about forty years of age, and his head was 
 ornamented with a helmet of beads and feathers. He had 
 on a snuff-brown coat, with a broad band of tinsel down 
 the arms, and carried in his hand a largo tail made of th« 
 saudal extremities of a number of gnus. This has charms 
 attached to it, and he continued waving it in front of him- 
 wlf all the time wo wore there. He seemed in good spirits, 
 laughing heartily several times. This is a good sign, for a 
 man who shakes his sides with mirth is seldom difficult to 
 deal with. When we rose to take leave, all rose with ua, 
 »s ai< Shinte's. 
 
 Eetuming next morning, Katema addressed mo thaa»— ^ 
 
raXEilVIEW WITH KATEMA. 193 
 
 "I am the great Moene (lord) Katema, the f&llow of Ma- 
 tiamvo. There is no one in the country equal to Matiamvc 
 and me I have always lived here, and my forefathers too. 
 There is the house in which my father lived. You found 
 no human skulls near the place where you are encamped 
 I never killea any of the traders : they all come to mo. I 
 am the great Moone Katema, of whom you have heard " 
 lie looked as if he had fallen asleep tipsy and dreamed 
 of his greatness. On explaining my objects to him, htt 
 promptly pointed out three men who would be our guides, 
 and explained that the northwest path was the most 
 direct, and that by which all traders came, but that the 
 water at present standing on the plains would reach up to 
 the loins : he would therefore send us by a more northerly 
 route. Which no trader had yet traversed. This was more 
 suited to our wishes, for wo never found a path safe that 
 had been trodden by slave-traders. 
 
 We presented a few articles which pleased him highly, — 
 a small shawl, a razor, three bunches of beads, some but- 
 tons, and a powder-horn. Apologizing for the insignifi- 
 cance of the gift, I wished to know what I could bring 
 him from Loanda, saying, not a large thing, but something 
 small. He laughed heartily at the limitation, and replied, 
 " Every thing of the white people would be acceptable, and 
 he would receive any thing thankfully ; but the coat ho 
 then had on was old, and he would like another." I intro- 
 duced the subject of the Bible; but one of the old coun- 
 cillors broke in, told all he had picked up from the Mam^ 
 bari, and glided off into several other subjects. It is a 
 miseiy to speak through an interpreter, as I was now 
 forced to do. With a body of men like mine, composed as 
 they wore of six different tribes, and all speaking the lan- 
 guage of the Bechuanas, there was no difficulty in commn 
 eating on common subjects with any tribe wo camo to; but 
 doling out a story in which they felt no interest, and 
 which I understood only sufficiently well to perceive that 
 a mero abridgment was given, was uncommonly alow 
 
194 OATTLB — ^A FEAST. 
 
 work. Neither could Katema's attention be arrested, 
 except by compliments, of which they have always plenty 
 to bestow as well as receive. We were strangers, and 
 knew that, as Makololo, we had not the best of characters; 
 yet his treatment of us was wonderfully good and liberal. 
 
 I complimented him on the possession of cattle, and 
 pleased him by telling him how he might milk tho cows. 
 Ho has a herd of about thirty, really splendid animals, all 
 reared from two which he brought from the Balobale when 
 ho was young. They are generally of a white color, and 
 are quite wild, running off with graceful ease like a herd 
 of elands on the approach of a stranger. They excited tho 
 unbounded admiration of the Makololo, and clearly proved 
 that the country was well adapted for them. When Katema 
 wishes to slaughter one, ho is obliged to shoot it as if it 
 were a buffalo. Matiamvo is said to possess a herd of cattle 
 in a similar state. I never could feel certain as to the 
 reason why they do not all possess cattle in a country on- 
 taining such splendid pasturage. 
 
 As Katema did not offer an ox, as would have been done 
 by a Makololo or Caffre chief, we slaughtered one of our 
 own, and all of us were delighted to get a meal of moat, 
 after subsisting so long on the light porridge and green 
 maize of Londa. On occasions of slaughtering an animal, 
 some pieces of it are in the fire before the skin is all 
 removed from the body. A frying-pan fall of these piece* 
 having been got quickly ready, my men crowded about 
 their father, and I handed some all round. It was » 
 strange sight to the Balonda, who were looking on wonder^ 
 Ing. I offered portions to them too, but these were declined, 
 though they are excessively fond of a little animal food to 
 eat with their vegetable diet. They would not oat with ub, 
 but they would take the moat and cook it in their own 
 way, and then use it. I thought, at one time that they had 
 imported something from the Mohammedans, and the more 
 espojially as an exclamatica of surprise, "Allah I" soiinds 
 like the lUah of the Arabs ; but we found, a little fiirthei 
 
t. 
 
 * 
 
 i 
 
 ^4 
 
 
 I 
 
 ^-■s. 
 
 «*t 
 
 :33 
 
 
 '.f^y"^^i 
 
 AF- 
 
 
 (^ 
 
 !,*■- 
 
 
 * • 
 
 
mew ATTACK OF PEVEB. 19T 
 
 un, another form of salutation, of Christian (?) Oiigin, " Av©- 
 rie," (Ave Marie.) The salutations probably travel farther 
 than the faith. My people, when satisfied with a meal like 
 that which they enjoy so often at home, amused themselvef 
 by an uproarious dance. Eatema sent to ask what I had 
 given them to produce so much excitement. Intemese replied 
 it was their custom, and they meant no harm. The com- 
 panion of the ox we slaughtered refiised food for two days, 
 and went lowing about for him continually. He seemed 
 inconsolable for bis loss, and tried again and again to 
 OBcapo back to the Makololo country. My men remarked, 
 " He thinks. They will kill me as well as my friend." £atema 
 thought it the result of art, and had fears of my skill in 
 medicine, and, of course, witchcraft. He refused to see the 
 magic lantern. 
 
 On Sunday, the 19th, both I and several of our party 
 were seized with fever, and I could do nothing but toss 
 about in my little tent, with the thermometer about 90°, — 
 though this was the beginning of winter, and my men 
 made as much shade as possible by planting branches of 
 trees all round and over it. We have, for the first time in 
 my experience in Africa, had a cold wind from the north. 
 All the winds from that quarter are hot, and those from 
 the south are cold; but they seldom blow from either 
 direction. 
 
 20th. — We were glad to get away, though not on account 
 of any scarcity of food; for my men, by giving small 
 preaents of meat as an earnest of their sincerity, formed 
 many friendships with the people of Katema. Wo went 
 about four or five miles in a N.N.W. direction, then two in 
 a westerly one, and came round the small end of Lake 
 Dilolo. It seemed, as far as we could at this time discern, 
 to be like a river a quarter of a mile wide. 
 
 Immediately beyond Dilolo there is a large flat abon 
 
 twenty miles in breadth. Here Shakatwala insisted on our 
 
 remaining to got supplies of food from Eatema's sabjeots 
 
 before entering the uninhabited watery plaina. 
 
 I7» 
 
198 8AOA0ITT OF ASTK. 
 
 Heavy rains prevented us from crossing the plain in front 
 (N.N.W.) in one day, and the constant wading among the 
 grass hurt the feet of the men. There is a footpath all the 
 Tvay across, but, as this is worn down beneath the level of 
 the rest of the plain, it is necessarily the deepest portion, 
 and the men, avoiding it, make a new walk by its side. A 
 path, however narrow, is a great convenience, as any one 
 who has travelled on foot in Africa will admit. The virtual 
 want of it here caused us to make slow and painful progress. 
 
 Ants surely are wiser than some men, for they learn by 
 erperience. They have established themselves even on 
 these plains, where water stands so long annually as to 
 allow the lotus, and other aqueous plants, to come to matu- 
 rity. "When all the ant-horizon is submerged a foot deep; 
 they manage to exist by ascending to little houses built of 
 black tenacious loam qn stalks of grass and placed highei 
 than the line of inundation. This must have been the re- 
 sult of experience ; for, if they had waited till the water 
 actually invaded their terrestrial habitations, they would not 
 have been able to procure materials for their aerial quarters 
 unless they dived down to the bottom for every mouthful 
 of clay. Some of these upper chambers are about the size 
 of a bean, and othero as large as a man's thumb. They 
 must have built in anticipation ; and, if so, let us humbly 
 hope that the sufferers by the late inundations in France 
 may be possessed of as much common sense as the little 
 black ants of the Dilolo plains. 
 
DEEP VALUST 199 
 
 CHAPTBE XVIII. 
 
 0E. LIVINGSTONE ADVANCES TO THE NORTHWEST— VISITS 
 KATENDE AND lONOA PANZA. 
 
 2ith of February. — On reaching unflooded lands beyond 
 the plain, -we found the villages there acknowledged the 
 authority of the chief named Katende, and we discovered., 
 also, to ottr surprise, that the almost level plain we had 
 passed forms the watershed between the southern and 
 northern rivers, for we had now entered a district in 
 which the rivers flowed in a northerly direction into the 
 Kasai or Loke, near to which we now were, while the 
 rivers we had hitherto crossed were all running southward. 
 Having met with kind treatment and aid at the first vil- 
 lage, Katema's guides returned, and we were led to the 
 N.N.W. by the inhabitants, and descended into the very 
 first really-deep valley we had seen since leaving Kolo- 
 bong. A stream ran along the bottom of a slope of three 
 or four hundred yards from the plains above. 
 
 "We crossed this by a rustic bridge at present submerged 
 thigh deep by the rains. The trees growing along the 
 Btream of this lovely valley were thickly planted and very 
 high. Many had sixty or eighty feet of clean straight 
 trunk, and beautiful flowers adorned the ground beneath 
 them. Ascending the opposite side, we came, in two 
 hours' time, to another valley, equally beautiful, and with 
 1 stream also in its centre. 
 
 Beaching the village of Kabinje, in the evening ho sent 
 OB a present of tobacco, Mutokuane or " bang," (^GannabtM 
 tativa,') and maize, by the man who went forward to an- 
 nounce our arrival, and a message expressing satisfaction 
 at the prospect of having trade with the coast. The 
 westing we were making brought us among people 
 who are frequently visited by the Mambari as slave-dealenu 
 
200 DEMAND FOR GUNPOWDER AND OALICO. 
 
 This trade causes bloodshed; for when a poor family la 
 selected as the victims it is necessary to get rid of the 
 older members of it, because they are supposed to bo able 
 to give annoyance to the chief afterward by moans of 
 enchantments. The belief in the power of charms for 
 good or evil produces not only honesty, but a great amount 
 of gentle dealing. The powerful are often restrained in 
 their despotism from a fear that the weak and helpless 
 may injure them by their medical knowledge. 
 
 When we wished to move on, Kabinje refiised a guide to 
 the next village, because he was at war with it ; but, after 
 much persuasion, he consented, provided that the guide 
 should be allowed to return as soon as he came in sight 
 of the enemy's village. This we felt to be a misfortune, 
 as the people all suspect a man who comes telling his own 
 tale ; but, there being no help for it, we went on, and found 
 the head-man of a village on the rivulet Kalomba, called 
 Kang^nke, a very different man from what his enemy 
 represented. We found, too, that the idea of buying and 
 Belling took the place of giving for friendship. As I had 
 nothing with which to purchase food except a parcel of 
 beads, which were preserved for worse times, I began to feat 
 that we should soon be compelled to suffer more from 
 hunger than we had done. The people demanded gun- 
 powder for every thing. K we had possessed any quan- 
 tity of that article, we should have got on well, for here 
 it is of great value. On our return, near this spot we 
 found a good-sized fowl was sold for a single charge of 
 gunpowder. Next to that, English calico was in great 
 demand, and so were beads ; but money was of no value 
 whatever. Gold is quite unknown; it is thought to be 
 brass: trade is carried on by barter alone. The people 
 know nothing of money. A purse-proud person would 
 here fool the ground move from beneath his feet. Occasion- 
 ally a large piece of copper, in the shape of a St. Andrew's 
 orosB, is offered for sale. 
 
 Febrvars 37. — Kangenko promptly fumisl^ed gnidet 
 
1 ' .. "*-/'jKBS^"""""A. 
 
 
 J-a* 
 
 
 h;-'*S. i^il, 
 
 
 , lir 
 
 L, 
 
 
 
 
VEXATIOUS TRICK. 203 
 
 this Homing, so we went briskly on a shta-t distance, and 
 came to a part of the Kasye, Kasai, or Loke, whore he 
 had appointed two canoes to convoy us across. This is a 
 most beautiful river, and very much like the Clyde in Scot- 
 land. The slope of the valley down to the stream is about 
 five hundred yards, and finely wooded. It is perhaps 
 one hundred yards broad, and was winding slowly from 
 Bide to side in the beautiful green glen, in a course to th« 
 north and northeast. In both the directions from which 
 It came and to which it went it seemed to be allornately 
 embowered in sylvan vegetation or rich meadows covei-ed 
 with tall grass. The men pointed out its course, and said 
 " Though you sail along it for months, you will turn with 
 out seeing the end of it." 
 
 While at the ford of the Kasai we were subjected to « 
 trick, of which we had been forewarned by the people of 
 Shinte. A knife had been dropped by one of Kangenkn's 
 people, in order to entrap my men ; it was put down near 
 our encampment, as if lost, the owner in the mean time 
 watching till one of my men picked it up. Nothing was 
 aaid until our party was divided, one half on this and the 
 other on that bank of the river. Then the charge was 
 made to me that one of my men had stolen a knife. 
 Certain of my people's honesty, I desired the man, who 
 was making a great noise, to search the luggage for it ; 
 the unlucky lad who had taken the bait then came forward 
 and confessed that he had the knife in a basket which was 
 already taken over the river. When it was returned, the 
 owner would not receive it back unless accompanied with 
 a fine. The lad offered beads, but these were refused with 
 Wiom. A shell hanging round his neck, similar to that 
 which Shinte had given me, was the object demanded, and 
 the victim of the trick, as we all knew it to be, was obliged 
 to part with his costly ornament. I could not save hisn 
 from the loss, as all had been forewarned ; and it is Qm 
 universal custom among the Makololo and many other 
 tribes to show whatever they may find to the chief person 
 
204 WANT OF FOOD. 
 
 of their company, and make a sort »f offer of it to him. 
 This lad ought to have done so to me : the rest of the 
 party always observed this custom. I felt annoyed at tha 
 imposition, but the order we invariably followed in crow 
 ing a river forced me to submit The head of the party 
 remained to be ferried over last ; so, if I had not come to 
 terms, I would have been, as I always was in crossing 
 rivers which wo could not swim, completely in the power 
 of the enemy. It was but rarely we could get a head-man 
 BO witless as to cross a river with us and remain on the' 
 opposite bank in a convenient position to be seized as a 
 hostage in case of my being caught. 
 
 This trick is but one of a number equally dishonorable 
 which are practised by tribes that lie adjacent to the more 
 civilized settlements. The Balonda farther east told ns, 
 by way of warning, that many parties of the more central 
 tribes had at various periods set out, in order to trade with 
 the white men themselves, instead of through the Mambari, 
 but had always been obliged to return without reaching 
 their destination, in consequence of so many pretexts being 
 invented by the tribes encountered in the way for fining 
 them of their ivory. 
 
 This ford was in 11° 15' 47" S. latitude, but the weather was 
 BO excessively cloudy we got no observation for longitude.- 
 
 We were now in want of food; for, to the great surprise 
 of my companions, the people of Kangenke gave nothing 
 except by way of sale, and charged the most exorbitant 
 prices for the little meal and manioc they brought. The 
 i>nly article of barter my men had was a little fat saved 
 from the ox we slaughtered at Katema's; so I was obliged 
 to give them a portion of the stock of beads. One day 
 (29th) of westing brought us from the Kasai to near the 
 village of Katende, and we saw that we were in a land 
 whore no hope could be entertained of getting supplies of 
 animal food, for one of our guides caught a light- blue- 
 colored mole and two mice for his supper. The care with 
 w\ ich he wrapped them up in a leaf and slung thorn on 
 
A OKAYE OFFENCE. 205 
 
 his spear told that wo could not hope to enjoy any larger 
 game. "Wo saw no evidence of any animals besides; and, 
 on coming to the villages beyond this, we often saw boys 
 and girls engrged in digging up these tiny quadrupeds. 
 
 Katonde sent for me on the day following our arrival, 
 and, being quite willing to visit him, I walked, for this 
 purpose, about three miles from our encampment. AYhon we 
 approached the village we wore desired to enter a hut, and, aa 
 it was raining at the time, we did so. After a long time spent 
 in giving and receiving messages from the great man, wo were 
 told that he wanted either a man, a tusk, beads, copper rings, 
 or a shell, as payment for leave to pass through his country. 
 No one, we were assured, was allowed that liberty, or even 
 to behold him, without something of the sort being pro. 
 Bonted. Having humbly explained our cLvcumstances, and 
 that he could not expect to "catch an humble cow by the 
 horns," — a proverb similar to ours that "you can't draw 
 milk out of a stone," — we were told to go home, and he 
 would speak again to us next day. 1 could not avoid a 
 hearty laugh at the cool impudence of the savage, and 
 made the best of my way home in the still pouring rain. 
 My men were rather nettled at this want of hospitality j 
 but, after talking over the matter with one of Katende'a 
 Bcrvants, he proposed that some small article should be 
 given, and an attempt made to please Katonde. I turned 
 out my shirts, and selected the worst one as a sop for him, 
 and invited Katonde to come and choose any thing else I 
 had, but added that, when I should reach my qwn chief 
 naked, and was asked what I had done with my clothes, I 
 ihould be obliged to confess that I had left them with 
 Katendo. The shirt was despatched to him, and some of 
 my people went along with the servant • they soon returned, 
 saying that the shirt had been accepted, and guides and 
 food too would be sent to us next day. The chief had, 
 moreover, expressed a hope to see me on my return. He 
 is reported to bo very corpulent. The traders who have 
 oomo hero seem to have oeen very timid, yielding t« every 
 
 18 
 
206 A NATIVE TOt>KEEPER. 
 
 demand made on the most frivolous pretences. One of mj 
 men, seeing another mnch like an acquaintance at home, 
 addressed him by the name of the latter in sport, telling 
 him, at the same time, why he did so ; this was pronounced 
 to be a grave offence, and a large fine demanded : when th« 
 case came before me I could see no harm in what had been 
 done, and told my people not to answer the young fellow. 
 The latter felt himself disarmed, for it is chiefly in a brawl 
 they have power ; then words are spoken in anger which 
 rouse the passions of the complainant's friends. In this 
 case, after vociferating some time, the would-be offended 
 party came and said to my man that, if they exchanged 
 some small gift, all would be right, but, my man taking nc 
 notice of him, he went off rather crest-fallen. 
 
 My men were as much astonished as myself at the de- 
 mand for payment for leave to pass, and the almost entire 
 nogloct of the rules of hospitality. Katende gave us only 
 a little meal and manioc, and a fowl. Being detained two 
 days by heavy rains, we felt that a good stock of patience 
 ■was necessary in travelling through this country in the 
 ••ainy season. 
 
 Passing onward without seeing Eatende, we crossed a 
 small rivulet, the Sengko, by which we had encamped,. and 
 after two hours came to another, the Totelo, which was 
 somewhat larger and had a bridge over it. At the farther 
 end of this strucfure stood a negro, who demanded fees. 
 He said the bridge was his, the path his ; the guides were 
 his children ; and if we did not pay him he would prevent 
 ferther progress. This piece of civilization I was not pre- 
 pared to meet, and stood a few seconds looking at our bold 
 toll-keeper, when one of my men took off three copper 
 b««celots, which paid for the whole party. The negro wa« 
 (. better man than he at first seemed, for ho immediately 
 went to his garden and brought us some leaves of tobacco 
 OS a present. 
 
 When we got fairly away from the villagos. the guides 
 from Kangenke sat down and told us that there were three 
 
IXOODED VALLEYS. 207 
 
 pia<hB in front, aud if we did not at once present them 
 with a cloth they wonld leave us to take whichever we 
 might like best. As I had pointed out the direction in 
 which Loanda lay, and had only employed them for tha 
 sake of knowing the paths between villages which lay 
 along our route, and always objected when they led us in 
 any other than the Loanda direction, I wished my men 
 now to go on without the guides, trusting to ourselves to 
 choose the path which would seem to lead us in the direction 
 wo had always followed. But Mashauana, fearing lest wo 
 might wander, asked leave to give his own cloth, and when 
 the guides saw that they came forward, shouting, " Averi6I 
 Averie \" 
 
 In the afternoon of thib day we came to a valley about 
 a mile wide, filled with clear, fast-flowing water. The men 
 on foot were chin deep in crossing, and we three on ox-back 
 got wet to the middle, the weight of the animals preventing 
 them fit'om swimming. A tnunder-sbower descending com> 
 pletod the partial dienching of the plain, and gave a cold, 
 uncomfortable " packing in a wet blanket" that night. 
 !Next day we found another flooded valley about half a 
 mile wide, with a small aud now deep, rivulet in its middle, 
 flowing rapidly to the S.S.iE., or toward the Kasai. The 
 middle part of this flood, being the bed g£ what at other 
 times is the rivulet, was so rapid that we crossed by holding 
 on to the oxen, and the current soon dashed them to tha 
 opposite bank : we then jumped off, and, the oxen being re- 
 lieved of their burdens, we could pull them on to the shal- 
 lower part. The rest of the valley was thigh Jeep and 
 boggy, but, holdiflg on by the belt which fastened the blanket 
 to the ox, we each floundered through the nasty slough aa 
 well OS we could. 
 
 In the afternoon we came to another stream, fiuana Loke, 
 (or child of Loke,) with a bridge over it. The men had to 
 ■wim off to each end of the bridge, and when on it were 
 breast deep : some preferred holding on by the tails of the 
 oxen the whole way across. I intended tu do this too j 
 
208 UNCULTIVATED VALLETB. 
 
 but, riding to the deep part, before I could dismcnnt and 
 seize the helm the ox dashed off with his companions, and 
 his body sank so deep that I failed in my attempt even to 
 catch the blanket-belt, and if I pulled the bridle the ox 
 seemed as if he would come backward upon mc; so I struck 
 out for the opposite bank alone. My poor fcUows were 
 dreadfully alarmed when they saw mo parted from the 
 cattle, and about twenty of them made a simultaneous rush 
 into the water for my rescue, and just as I reached the 
 opposite bank one seized my arm, and another threw his 
 around my body. When I stood up it was most gratifying 
 to see them all struggling toward me. Some had leaped 
 off the bridge and allowed their cloaks to float down the 
 stream. Part of my goods, abandoned in the hurry, were 
 brought up from the bottom after I was safe. Great was 
 the pleasure expressed when they found that I could swim 
 like themselves, without the aid of a tail, and I did and do 
 feel grateful to these poor heathens for the promptitude 
 with which they dashed in to save, as they thought, my 
 life. I found my clothes cumbersome in the water : they 
 could swim quicker from being naked. They swim like 
 dogs, not frog-fashion as we do. 
 
 In the evening we crossed the small rivulet Lozeze, and 
 came to some villages of the Kasabi, from whom wo got 
 some manioc in exchange for beads. They tried to frighten 
 us by telling of the deep rivers we should have to cross in 
 our vay. I was drying my clothes by turning myself re und 
 and round before the fire. My men laughed at the idea of 
 being frightened by rivers. "We can all swim: who car- 
 ried the white man across the river but himself?" I felt 
 proud of their praise. 
 
 Saturday, ith March. — Came to the outskirts of the ter- 
 ritory of the Chiboque. We crossed the Kondo and Ka- 
 Inze rivulets. The former is a deep, small stream with a 
 bridge, the latter insignificant; the valleys in which these 
 rivulets run are beautifully fertile. My companions are 
 oontinaally lamenting over the sncultivatod vales in Buoh 
 
DIPPEREKCE IN COLOR, OF APRICANS. 209 
 
 words as these: — "What a fine country for cattle! My 
 heart is sore to see such fruitful valleys for corn lying 
 waste." 
 
 While at the villages of the Kasabi we saw no evidoncea 
 of want of food among the people. Our beads were very 
 valuable, but cotton cloth would have been still more so; as 
 we travelled along, men, women, and children came running 
 After us, with meal and fowls for sale, which we would 
 gladly have purchased had we possessed any English manu- 
 factures. When they heard that we had no cloth, they 
 turned back much disappointed. 
 
 The amount of population in the central parts of the 
 country may be called large only as compared with the 
 Cape Colony or the Bechuana country. The cultivated 
 land is as nothing compared with what might be brought 
 under the plough. There are flowing streams in abundance, 
 which, were it necessary, could be turned to the purpose 
 of irriga+jon with but little labor. Miles of fruitful country 
 are now lying absolutely waste, for there is not even game 
 to eat off the fine pasturage, and to recline under the ever- 
 green, shady groves which we are ever passing in our pro- 
 gress. The people who inhabit the central region are not 
 all quito black in color. Many incline to that of bronze, 
 and others are as light in hue as the Bushmen, who, it luaj 
 be remembered, afford a proof that heat alone does aot 
 cause blackness, but that heat and moisture combined do 
 very n>aterially deepen the color. • 
 
 Hav^.ng, on the aforementioned date, reached the village 
 of Ejambi, one of the chiefs of the Chiboque, we inteuded 
 to pass a quiet Sunday; and, our provisions being quite 
 spent, I ordered a tired riding-ox to be slaughtered. As 
 wo wished to be on good terms with all, we sent the bump 
 ftnd ribs to Njambi, with the explanation that this was the 
 customary tribute to chiefs in the part from which wo had 
 come, and that we always honored men in his position. B.o 
 returned thanks, and promised to send food. Next mom 
 ing he sent an impudent message, with a very Email present 
 
 C 18» 
 
210 OUR ENCAMPMENT SUERODNDED. 
 
 of meal; scorning the meat lie had accepted, he demanaeit 
 either a man, an ox, a gun, powder, cloth, or a shell ; ana, 
 in the event of refusal to comply with his demand, he inti- 
 mated his intention to prevent our farther progress. We 
 replied, we should have thought ourselves fools if we had 
 scorned his small present and demanded other food instead ; 
 and, even supposing we had possessed the articles named, 
 no black man ought to impose a tribute on a party that did 
 not trade in slaves. The servants who brought the mes- 
 sage said that, when sent to the Mambari, they had always 
 got a quantity of cloth from them for their master, and now 
 expected the same, or something else as an equivalent, 
 from me. 
 
 "We heard some of the Chiboque remark, "They have 
 only five guns;" and about mid-day iNjambi collected all his 
 people and surrounded our encampment. Their object was 
 evidently to plunder us of every thing. My men seized 
 their javelins, and stood on the defensive, while the young 
 Chiboque had drawn their swords and brandished them 
 with great fury. Some even pointed their guns at me, and 
 nodded to each other, as much as to say, " This is the way 
 we shall do with him." I sat on my camp-stool, with my 
 double-barrelled gun across my knees, and invited the chief 
 to be seated also. When he and his counsellors had sat 
 down on the ground in front of me, I asked what crime 
 we had committed that he had come armed in that way. 
 Ho replied that one of my men, Pitsane, while sitting at 
 the fire that morning, had, in spitting, allowed a smaU 
 quantity of the saliva to fall on the leg of one of his men, 
 and this " guilt" he wanted to be settled by the fine of a 
 man, ox, or gun; Pitsane admitted the fact of a little 
 saliva having fallen on the Chiboque, and, in proof of its 
 being a pure accident, mentioned that he had given the 
 Bian a piece of meat, by way of making friends, just before 
 it happened, and wiped it off with his hand as soon as it 
 fell. In reference to a man being given, I declared that we 
 WffFO all ready to die rather than give up one of our nun) 
 
PROSPECTS OP A FIGHT. 211 
 
 ber to be a slave j that my men might as well give me as I 
 giv« one of them, for we were all free men. " Then yon 
 can give the gun with which the ox was shot." As wo 
 heard some of his people remarking even now that we had 
 only "five guns," we declined, on the ground that, as thoy 
 were intent on plundering us, giving a gun would be help- 
 ing them to do so. 
 
 This they denied, saying they wanted the customary 
 tribute only. I asked what right they had to demand paj'- 
 mont for leave to tread on the ground of God, our common 
 Father. If we trod on their gardens, we would pay, but 
 not for marching on land which was still God's, and not 
 theirs. Thoy did not attempt to controvert this, because 
 it is in accordance with their own ideas, but reverted again 
 to the pretended crime of the saliva. 
 
 My men now entreated me to give something; and, after 
 asking the chief if he really thought the affair of the 
 spitting a matter of guilt, and receiving an answer in the 
 affirmative, I gave him one of my shirts. ITie young 
 Ohiboque were dissatisfied, and began shouting and bran- 
 dishing their swords for a greater fine. 
 
 As Pitsane felt that he had been the cause of this dis- 
 agreeable affair, he asked me to add something else. I 
 gave a bunch of beads, but the counsellors objected this 
 time ; so I added a large handkerchief. The more I yielded, 
 the more unreasonable their demands became, and at 
 every fresh demand a shout was raised by the armed party, 
 and a rush made around us with brandishing of arms. One 
 young man made a charge at my head from behind; but 1 
 quickly brought round the muzzle of my gun to his mouth, 
 and he retreated. I pointed him out to the chief, and he 
 ordered him to retire a little. I felt anxious to avoid the 
 effusion of blood ; and though sure of being able, with my 
 Makololo, who had been drilled by Sebituane, to drive off 
 twice the number of our assailants, though now a large 
 body and well armed with spears, swords, arrows, and 
 gnnsj 1 strove to avoid actual cifl^lision. My men were 
 
312 THE riOHT AYEETED 
 
 quite unprepared for this exhibition, but behaved with 
 admirable coolness. The chief and counsellors, by accept- 
 ing my invitation to be seated, had placed themselves in * 
 trap, for my men very quietly surrounded them, and made 
 them feel that there was no chance of escaping their spears. 
 I then said that, as one thing after another had failed to 
 •atisfy them, it was evident that they wanted to fight, while 
 ice only wanted to pass peaceably through the country; 
 that they must begin first, and bear the guUt before God .- 
 we would not fight till they had struck the first blow. I 
 then sat silent for some time. It was rather trying foi 
 me, because I knew that the Chiboque would aim at the 
 white man first ; but I was careful not to appear flurried, 
 and, having four barrels reaay for instant action, looked 
 quietly at the savage scene around. The Chiboque coan- 
 tenance, by no means handsome, is not improved by the 
 practice which they have adopted of filing the teeth to a 
 point. The chief and counsellors, seeing that they were 
 in more danger than I, did not choose to follow our decision 
 that they should begin by striking the first blow and then 
 see what we could do, and were perhaps influenced by 
 seeing the air of cool preparation which some of my men 
 displayed at the prospect of a work of blood. 
 
 The Chiboque at last put the matter before us in this 
 way : — " You come among us in a new way, and say you 
 are quite friendly : how can wo know it unless you give us 
 some of your food, and you take some of ours ? If yon 
 give us an ox, we will give you whatever you may wish, 
 and then we shall be friends." In accordance with ibe 
 entreaties of my men, I gave an ox, and, when asked what 
 I should like in return, mentioned food as the thing which 
 we most needed. In the evening, Njambi sent us a very 
 small basket • tf meal, and two or three pounds of the flesh 
 of Oiir own ox ! with the apology that he had no fowls, 
 and very little of any other food. It was impossible to 
 avoid a laugh at the coolness of the generous creatures. I 
 «ra8 truly thankful, nevertheless, that, though resolved to 
 
CHANGE OF PATH. 213 
 
 die rather than deliver up one of our number to be » 
 slave, we had so far gained our point as to be allowed to 
 pass on without having shed human blood. 
 
 In the midst of the commotion, several Chiboque stole 
 pieces of meat out of the sheds of my people, and Moho> 
 risi, one of the Makololo, went boldly into the crowd and 
 took back a marrow-bone from one of them. A few of mj 
 Batoka seemed afraid, and would perhaps have fled had 
 the affray actually begun, but, upon the whole, I thought 
 my men behaved admirably. They lamented having left 
 their shields at home by command of Sekeletu, who feared 
 that, if they carried these, they might be more disposed to 
 be overbearing in their demeanor to the tribes we should 
 meet. We had proceeded on the principles of peace and 
 conciliation, and the foregoing treatment shows in what 
 light our conduct was viewed : in fact, we were taken for 
 interlopers trying to cheat the revenue of the tribe. They 
 had been accustomed to get a slave or two from every 
 slave-trader who passed them, and, now that we disputed 
 the right, they viewed the infringement on what they con- 
 sidered lawfully duo with most virtuous indignation. 
 
 March 6. — We were informed that the people on the 
 west of the Chiboque of Njambi were familiar with the 
 visits of slave-traders ; and it was the opinion of our guides 
 from Kangenke that so many of my companions would be 
 demanded from me, in the same manner as the people 
 of Njambi had done, that I should reach the coast without 
 a single attendant. I therefore resolved to alter our course 
 and strike away to the N.N.E., in the hope that at some 
 point farther north I might find an exit to the Portuguese 
 settlement of Cassange. We proceeded at first due north, 
 with the Kasabi villages on our right and the Kasau on 
 our left. During the first twenty miles we crossed many 
 small, but now swollen, streams, having the usual boggy 
 banks ; and wherever the water had stood for any length 
 of time it was discolored with rust of iron. 
 
 On the 8th, one of the men had left an ounce or two of 
 
814 THE OX " 8INBAD " 
 
 powder at our sleeping-place, and went back several miles 
 for it. My clotbing being wet from cross-ng a stream, I 
 was compelled to wait for hira : had I been moving in the 
 sun I should have felt no harm ; but the inaction led to a 
 violent fit of feyer. The continuance of this attack was a 
 ■oarco of much regret ; for we went on next day to a small 
 nvulet called Chihune, in a lovely valley, and had, for a 
 wonder, a clear sky and a clear moon ; but such was the 
 contusion produced in my mind by the state of my body, 
 that I could scarcely mQ,nage, after some hours' trial, to 
 get a lunar observation in which I could repose confidence. 
 The (/hihune flows into the Longe, and that into the Chi- 
 bdmbo, a feeder of the Kasai. Those who know the diffi- 
 culties of taking altitudes, times, and distances, and com- 
 mitting all of them to paper, will sympathize with me in 
 this and many similar instances While at Chihune, the 
 men of a village brought wax for sale, and, on finding that 
 we wished honey, went off and soon brought a hive. All 
 the bees in the country are in possession of the natives; 
 fiw they j)lace hives sufficient for them all. After having 
 ascertained this, we never attended the call of the honey- 
 gaide, for we were sure it would only lead us to a hive 
 which we had no right to touch. The bird continues its 
 habit of inviting attention to the honey, though its ser- 
 vices in this district are never actually needed. My 
 Makololo lamented that they never knew before that wax 
 eould be sold for any thing of value. 
 
 In passing through these narrow paths I had an oppor- 
 tnnity of observing the peculiarities of my ox " Sinbad." 
 He had a softer back than the others, but a much more 
 Intractable temper. His horns were bent downward and 
 hung loosely, so he could do no harm with them ; but, ae 
 we wended our way slowly along the narrow path, ho 
 would suddenly dart aside. A string tied to a stick put 
 through the cartilage of the nose serves instead of a bridle : 
 if you jerk this back, it makes him run faster on ; if yon 
 pull it to one side, he allows the nose and head to go, but 
 
INCIPIENT MUTINY. 215 
 
 keeps the opposite eye directed to the forbidden spoi and 
 goes in spite of you. The only way he can be brought to 
 a stand is by a stroke with a wand across the nose. When^ 
 Sinbad ran in below a climber stretched over the path eo 
 low that I could not stoop under it, I was dragged off uud 
 oame down on the crown of my head; and he never 
 allowed an opportunity of the kind to pass without trying 
 to inflict a kick, as if I neither had nor deserved his love. 
 
 On leaving the Chihune, we crossed the Longe, and, as 
 the day was cloudy, our guides wandered in a forest away 
 to the west till we came to the river Chihombo, flowing to 
 the B.N.B. My men depended so much on the sun for 
 guidance, that, baring seen nothing of the luminary all 
 day, thej' thought we had wandered back to the Chiboque; 
 and, as often happens when bewildef-od, they disputed as 
 to the point where the sun should r ,e next morning. As 
 soon as the rains would allow next lay, wo went off to the 
 N.B. It would have been better to have travelled by com- 
 pass alone ; for the guides took advantage of any fears ex- 
 pressed by my people, and threatened to return if presents 
 were not made at once. But my men had never left their 
 own country before except for rapine and murder. When 
 they formerly came to a village,- they were in the habit of 
 killing numbers of the inhabitants and then taking a few 
 young men to serve as guides to the next place. As this 
 was their first attempt at an opposite line of conduct, and 
 as they were without their shields, they felt defenceless 
 among the greedy Chiboque, and some allowance must bo 
 made for them on that account. 
 
 Saturday, Wth. — ^Eeached a small village on the banks 
 of a narrow stream. I was too ill to go out of my little 
 covering except to quell a mutiny which began to show 
 itself among some of the Batoka and Ambonda of our 
 p^rty. They ^grumbled, as they often do against their 
 chiefs when they think them partial in their gifts, because 
 they supposed that I had shown a preference in the distri- 
 bution of the beads ; but the beads I had given to my pria> 
 
216 INSDBOBDINATION SUPPRESSED. 
 
 cipal mem were only sufficient to purchase a scanty meal, 
 and I had hastened on to this village in order to slaughtei 
 a tired ox and give them all a feast as well as a rest on 
 'Sunday, as preparation for the journey before us. I ex- 
 plained this to them, and thought their grumbling was al- 
 layed. I soon sank into a state of stupor, which the fevei 
 sometimes produced, and was oblivious to all their noise in 
 slaughtering. On Sunday the mutineers were making a 
 terrible din in preparing a skin they had procured. I re- 
 quested them twice, by the man who attended me, to bo 
 more quiet, as the noise pained me ; but, as they paid no 
 attention to this civil request, I put out my head, and, re- 
 peating it myself, was answered by an impudent laugh. 
 Knowing that discipline would be at an end if this mutiny 
 were not quelled, aifi that our lives depended on vigor- 
 ously upholding autjority, I seized a double-barrelled 
 pistol and darted forth from the domicile, looking, I sup- 
 pose, so savage as to put them to a precipitate flight. As 
 some remained within hearing, I told them that I must 
 maintain discipline, though at the expense of some of their 
 limbs; so long as we travelled together they must re- 
 member that I was master, and not they. There being 
 but little room to doubt my determination, they imme- 
 diately became very obedient, and never afterward gave 
 me any trouble or imagined that they had any right to 
 my property. 
 
 IBth. — ^We went forward some miles, but were brought 
 to a stand by the severity of my fever on the banks of a 
 branch of the Loajima, another tributary of the Kasai. I 
 was in a state of partial coma until late at night, when it 
 became necessary for me to go out ; and I was surprised U> 
 find that my men had built a littio stockade, and some of 
 them took their spears and acted as a guard. I found that 
 we wore surrounded by enemies, and a party of Chiboqus 
 lay near the gateway, after having preferred the demand 
 of "a man, an ox, a gun, or a tusk." My men had prepared 
 for defence in case of a night-attack, and, when the Chi- 
 
DEMANDS or THE OHIBOQUB. 217 
 
 boque wished to be shown where I lay sick, they very 
 properly refused to point me out. In the morning 1 weni 
 out to the Chiboque, and found that they answered me 
 civilly regarding my intentions in opening the country, 
 teaching them, &c. &c. They admitted that their chiefi 
 would be pleased with the prospect of friendship, and now 
 only wished to exchange tokens of good-will with me, and 
 offered three pigs, which they hoped I would accept. The 
 people here are in the habit of making a present and then 
 demanding whatever they choose in return. We had been 
 forewarned of this by our guides ; so I tried to decline, by 
 asking if they would eat one of the pigs in company with 
 us. To this proposition they said that they durst not 
 accede. I then accepted the present, in hope that the 
 blame of deficient friendly feeling might not rest with me, 
 and presented a razor, two bunches of beads, and twelve 
 copper rings, contributed by my men from their arms. 
 They went off to report to their chief; and, as I was quite 
 unable to move from excessive giddiness, we continued in 
 the same spot on Tuesday evening, when they returned 
 with a message couched in very plain terms, that a man, 
 tusk, gun, or even an ox, alone would be acceptable ; that 
 he had every thing else in his possession but oxen, and 
 that, whatever I should please to demand from him, he 
 would gladly give it. As this was all said civilly, and 
 there was no help for it if we refused but bloodshed, I gave 
 a tired riding-ox. My late chief mutineer, an Ambonda 
 man, was now overloyal, for he armed himself and stood 
 at the gateway. He would rather die than see his fathei 
 imposed on ; but I ordered Mosantu to take him out of th« 
 way; which he did promptly, and allowed the Chiboque t< 
 march off well pleased with their booty. I told my men 
 that I esteemed one of their lives of more value than all the 
 oxen we had, and that the only cause which could induce 
 me to fight would be to save the lives and liberties of th»e 
 majority. In tne propriety of this they all a^eed, and 
 ■aid that, if the Chiboque molested us who beb*vaA "c 
 
 19 
 
218 
 
 A ROBBER-PARTY. 
 
 peaceably, the guilt would be on their heads This is a 
 favorite mode of expression throughout the whole country. 
 All are anxious to give explanation of any acts they have 
 performed, and conclude the nan-ation with, "I have no 
 guilt or blaroe," ("molatu.") "They have the guilt." I 
 never could be positive whether the idea in their minds is 
 guilt iu the sight of the Deity, or of mankind only. 
 
 !N"ext morning the robber-party came with about thirty 
 yards of strong striped English calico, an axe, and two 
 hoes for our acceptance, and returned the copper rings, as 
 the chief was a great man and did not need the ornaments 
 of my men, but we noticed that they were taken back 
 Again. I divided the cloth among my men, and pleased 
 them a little by thus compensating for the loss of the ox. 
 I advised the chief, whose name we did not learn, as he 
 did not deign to appear except under the alias Matiamvo, 
 to get cattle for his own use, and expressed sorrow that 1 
 had none wherewith to enable him to make a commence- 
 ment. Eains prevented our proceeding till Thursday 
 morning, and then messengers appeared to tell us that 
 their chief had learned that all the cloth sent by him had 
 not been presented; that the copper rings had been secreted 
 by the persons ordered to restore them to us, and that he 
 had stripped the thievish emissaries of their property as a 
 punishment. Our guides thought these were only spies of 
 a larger party concealed in the forest through which rre 
 were now about to pass. We prepared for defence by 
 marching in a compact body and allowing no one tc 
 utraggle far behind the others. "We marched through 
 many miles of gloomy forest in gloomier silence, but no- 
 thing disturbed us. We came to a village, and found all 
 the men absent, — ^the guides thought, in the forest, with 
 their countrymen. I was too ill to care much whetier we 
 were attacked or not. Though a pouring rain came on, as 
 we were all anxious to get away out of a bad neighbor- 
 hood, we proceeded. The thick atmosphere prevented my 
 leeing the creeping plants in time to avoid them; bo 
 
MORE TROUBLES. 219 
 
 Pitsane, Mohorisi, and I, who alone were mounted, were 
 oftien caught; and, as there is nq stopping the oxen when 
 they have the prospect of giving the rider a tumble, we 
 came frequently to the ground. In addition to these mis- 
 haps, Sinbad went oflf at a plunging gallop, the bridle 
 broke, and I came down backward on the crown of my 
 head. He gave me a kick on the thigh at the same time. 
 [ felt none the worse for this rough treatment, but would 
 Dot recommend it to others as a palliative in cases of fever. 
 This last attack of fever was so obstinate that it reduced 
 me almost to a skeleton. The blanket which I used as 
 a saddle on the back of the ox, being frequently wet, 
 remained so beneath me even in the hot sun, and, aided by 
 the heat of the ox, caused extensive abrasion of the skin, 
 which was continually healing and getting sore again. To 
 this inconvenience was now added the chafing of my pro- 
 jecting bones on the hard bed. 
 
 On Friday we came to a village of civil people on the 
 banks of the Loajima itself, and we were wet all day in 
 consequence of crossing it. The bridges over it, and 
 another stream which we crossed at mid-day, were sub- 
 merged, as we have hitherto invariably found, by a flood 
 of perfectly-clear water. At the second ford we were met 
 by a hostile party, who refused us farther passage. 1 
 ordered my men to proceed in the same direction we had 
 been pursuing, but our enemies spread themselves out in 
 front of us with loud cries. Our numbers were about 
 equal to theirs this time, so I moved on at the head of my 
 men. Some ran off to other villages, or back to their own 
 village, on pretence of getting ammunition; others called 
 out that all traders came to them, and that we must do 
 the same. As these people had plenty of iron-headed 
 arrowo and some guns, when we came to t'ae edge of 
 the forest I ordered my men to put the luggage in our 
 centre, and, if our enemies did not fire, to cut down 
 some young trees and make a screen as quickly as possible, 
 but do nothing to them except in case of actual attack. 1 
 
22U OONTINTTBI) DEMANDS. 
 
 fthen dismounted, and, advancing a little toward our prin- 
 cipal opponent, showed Jiim how easily I could kill him, 
 but pointed upward, saying, "I fear God." Ke did the 
 tame, placing his hand on hia heart, pointing upward, and 
 •aying, "I fear to kill; but come to our village; come: do 
 come." At this juncture, the^old head-man, longa Fanza, 
 A venerable negro, came up, and I invited him and all to 
 Oe seated, that we might talk the matter over. longa 
 Fbnza soon let us know that he thought himself very ill 
 treated in being passed by. As most skirmishes arisa 
 from misunderstanding, this might have been a serious 
 one; for, like all the tribes near the Portuguese settle- 
 ments, people here imagine that they have a right to 
 demand payment from every one who passes through the 
 country ; and now, though longa Panza was certainly no 
 match for my men, yet they were determined not to forego 
 their right without a struggle. I removed with my men 
 to the vicinity of the village, thankful that no accident had 
 as yet brought us into actual collision. 
 
 The reason why the people have imbibed the idea so 
 strongly that they have a right to demand payment for 
 leave to pass through the country is probably this. They 
 have seen no traders except those either engaged in pur- 
 chasing slaves or who have slaves in their employment 
 These slave-traders have always been very much at the 
 mercy of the chiefs through whose country • they have 
 passed ; for, if the^ afforded a ready asylum for runaway 
 slaves, the traders might be deserted at any moment, and 
 stripped of their property altogether. They are thus 
 obliged to curry favor with the chiefs, so as to get a safe- 
 conduct from them The same system is adopted to induce 
 the chiefs to part with their people, whom all feel to be the 
 real source of their importance in the country. On the 
 return of the traders from the interior with chains of slaves, 
 it is so easy for a chief who may be so disposed to take 
 away a chain of eight or ten unresisting slaves, that the 
 merchant is fain to give any amount of presents in order to 
 
TILLAGE OP lONGA PANZA 221 
 
 Becure the good-will of the rulers. The independent chiefs, 
 not knowing why their favor is so eagerly sought, become 
 excessively proud and supercilious in their demands, and 
 look upon white men with the greatest contempt. To such 
 lengths did the Bangala, a tribe near to which wo had now 
 approached, proceed a few years ago, that they compelled 
 the Portuguese traders to pay for water, wood, and even 
 grass, and every possible pretext was invented for levying 
 fines ; and these were patiently submitted to so long as the 
 fllave-trade continued to flourish. We had unconsciously 
 come in contact with a system which was quite unknown 
 in the country from which my men had set out. An 
 English trader may there hear a demand for payment of 
 guides, but never, so far as I am aware, is he asked to pay 
 for leave to traverse a country. The idea does not seem 
 to have entered the native mind, except through slave- 
 traders; for the aborigines all acknowledge that the un- 
 tilled land, not needed for pasturage, belongs to God alone, 
 and that no harm is done by people passing through it. I 
 rather believe that, wherever the slave-trade has not pene- 
 trated, the visits of strangers are esteemed a real privilege 
 
 The village of old longa Panza (lat. 10° 25' S., long. 20' 
 15' E.) is small, and embowered in lofty evergreen trees, 
 which were hung around with fine festoons of creepers. 
 He sent us food immediately, and soon afterward a goat, 
 which was considered a handsome gift, there being but few 
 domestic animals, though the country is well adapted foi 
 them. I suspect this, like the country of Shinte and Ka- 
 tema, must have been a tsetse district, and only recently 
 rendered capable of supporting other domestic animals be- 
 lides the goat by the destruction of the game through th« 
 sxtonsive introduction of fire-arms. We might all have 
 been as ignorant of the existence of this insect-plague as 
 the Portuguese, had it not been for the numerous migra- 
 tions of pastoral tribes which took place in the south in 
 aonsequence of Zulu irruptions. 
 
 During these exciting scenes I always forgot my fevor," 
 i»» 
 
222 DIFPIOULTy WITH THE GUIDES 
 
 but a terrible sense of sinking came back with the feeliog 
 of safety. The same demand of payment for leave to pas* 
 was made on the 20th by old longa Panza as by the other 
 Chiboque. I offered the shell presented by Shinte, but 
 longa Panza said he was too old for ornaments. We might 
 have succeeded very well with him, for he was by do 
 means unreasonable, and had but a very small village of 
 supporters; but our two guides from Kangenke compli- 
 cated our difSculties by sending for a body of Bangala 
 traders, with a view to force us to sell the tusks of Seke- 
 letu and pay them with the price. We offered to pay 
 them handsomely if they would perform their promise of 
 guiding us to Cassange, but they knew no more of the 
 paths than we did; and my men had paid them repeatedly 
 and tried to get rid of them, but could not. They now 
 joined with our enemies, and so did the traders. Two 
 guns and some beads belonging to the latter were standing 
 in our encampment, and the guides seized them and ran 
 off. As my men knew that we should be called upon to 
 replace them, they gave chase, and when the guides saw 
 that they would be caught they threw down the guns, 
 directed their flight to the village, and- rushed into a hut. 
 The doorway is not much higher than that of a dog's ken- 
 nel. One of the guides was reached by one of my men as 
 he was in the act of stooping to get in, and a cut was 
 inflicted on a projecting part of the body which would have 
 made any one in that posture wince. The guns were 
 restored, but the beads were lost in the flight. All I had 
 remaining of my stock of beads could not replace those , 
 lost ; and, though we explained that we had no part in the 
 guilt of the act, the traders replied that we had brought 
 the thieves into the country ; these were of the Bangala, 
 who had been accustomed to plague the Portuguese in the 
 most vexatious way. We were striving to get a passage 
 through the countiy, and, feeling anxious that no orima 
 whatevci should be laid to our charge, tried the ooiiculi& 
 
DISCOURAGEMENTS. S23 
 
 tory plan here, though we were not, as iu the other in- 
 Btances, likely to be overpowered by numbers. 
 
 My men offered all their ornaments, and I offered all my 
 beads and shirts; but, though we had come to the village 
 against our will, and the guides had also followed us con 
 trary to our desire, and had even sent for the Bangala 
 traders without our knowledge or consent, yet matters 
 could not be arranged without our giving an ox and one 
 of the tusks. We were all -becoming disheartened, and 
 could not wonder that native expeditions from the interior 
 to the coast had generally failed to. reach their destinations. 
 My people were now so much discouraged that some pro- 
 mised to return home : the prospect of being obliged to 
 return when just on the threshold of the Portuguese set 
 tlements distressed me exceedingly. After using all my 
 powers of persuasion, I declared to them that if thoy re- 
 turned I would go on alone, and went into my little tent 
 with the mind directed to Him who hears the sighing of 
 the soul, and was soon followed by the head of Mohorisi, 
 saying, " Wo will never leave you. Do not be disheartened. 
 Wherever you lead we will follow. Our remarks were 
 made only on account of the injustice of these people." 
 Others followed, and with the most artless simplicity of 
 manner told me to be comforted : "they were all my chil- 
 dren; they knew no one but Sekeletu and me, and they 
 would die for me; they had not fought, because I did not 
 wish it; they had just spoken in the bitterness of their 
 spirit, and when feeling that they could do nothing; but 
 if these enemies begin you will see what we can do." One 
 of the oxen we offered to the Chiboquo had been rejected 
 because he had lost part of his tail, as they thought that it 
 had been cut off and witchcraft-medicine inserted; and 
 some mirth was excited by my proposing to raise a similar 
 objection to all the oxen we still had in our possession. 
 The remaining four soon presented a singular shortness of 
 their caudal extremities, and, though no one ever askid 
 w^hethcr they had medicine in the stumps or no, we wern 
 
224 GUIDES PEEPAID. 
 
 no more troubled by the demand for an ox! We now 
 slaughtered another ox, that the spectacle might not be 
 seen of the owners of the cattle fasting while the Chiboque 
 were feasting. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 DK. LIVINGSTONE KEACHES THE WEST COAST OF APEICA. 
 
 24:th. — ^loNGA Panza's sons agreed to act as guides into 
 the territory of the Portuguese if I would give them the 
 shell given by Shinte. I was strongly averse to this, and 
 especially to give it beforehand, but yielded to the entreaty 
 of my people to appear as if showing confidence in these hope- 
 ful youths. They urged that they wished to leave the shell 
 with their wives as a sort of payment to them for endmdng 
 their husbands' absence so long. Having delivered the pre- 
 cious shell, we went west- by-north to the river Chikapa, 
 which here (lat. 10° 22' S.) is forty or fifty yards wide, 
 and at present was deep; it was seen flowing over a rocky, 
 broken cataract with great noise about half a mile above 
 our ford. We were ferried over in a canoe made out of a 
 single piece of bark sewed together at the ends, and having 
 sticks placed in it at different parts to act as ribs. 
 
 Next morning our guides went only about a mile, and 
 thou told us they would return home. I expected this 
 when paying them beforehand, in accordance with the en- 
 treaties of the Makololo, who are rather ignorant of the 
 world. Very energetic remonstrances were addressed to 
 the guides, but they slipped off one by one in the thick 
 forest through which we were passing, and I was glad to 
 near my companions coming to the conclusion that, as we 
 were now in parts visited by traders, we did not require 
 the guides, whose chief use had been to prevent misappre- 
 hension of car objects in the minds of the villagers. 
 
TRADERS. 22b 
 
 2StA. — We spent Sunday on the banks of the Qoilo or 
 Kweelo, here a stream of about ten yards wide. It runs 
 in a deep glen, the sides of which are almost five hundred 
 yards of slope, and rocky, the rocks being hardened cal- 
 careous tufa lying on clay shale and sandstone below, with 
 a capping of ferruginous conglomerate The scenery would 
 have been very pleasing, but fever took away much of the 
 joy of life, and severe daily intermittents rendered me very 
 weak and always glad to recline. 
 
 In continuing our "W.N.W. course, we met many parties 
 of native traders, each carrying some pieces of cloth and 
 salt, with a few beads to barter for bees' -wax. They are 
 all armed with Portuguese guns, and have cartridges with 
 iron balls. When we meet, we usually stand a few minutes 
 They present a little salt, and we give a bit of ox-hide, or 
 some other trifle, and then part with mutual good wishes. 
 The hide of the oxen we slaughtered had been a valuable 
 addition to our resources, for we found it in so great repute 
 for girdles all through Loanda that we cut up every skin 
 into strips about two inches broad, and sold them for meal 
 and manioc as we went along. As we came nearer Angola 
 we found them of less value, as the people there possess 
 cattle themselves. 
 
 The village on the Kweelo, at which we spent ' Sunday, 
 was that of a civil, lively old man, called Sakandala, who 
 offered no objections to our progress. We found we should 
 soon enter on the territory of the Bashinje, (Chinge of the 
 Portuguese,) who are mixed with another tribe, named 
 Bangala, which have been at war with the Babindele or 
 Poi-tuguese. Eains and fever, as usual, helped to impede 
 our progress until we were put on the path which leads 
 ftom Cassange and Bihe to Matiamvo by a head-man 
 named Kamboela. This was a well-beaten footpath, and 
 soon after entering upon it we met a party of half-casto 
 traders from Bihe, who confirmed the information we had 
 already got of this path leading straight to Cassange, 
 through which they had come on their way from Bihe to 
 
226 VALLEV or THE QUANGO. 
 
 Cabdngo They kindly presented my men with soiae 
 tobacco, and marvelled greatly when they found that 1 
 had never been able to teach myself to smoke. 
 
 As we were now alone, and sure of being on the way to 
 the abodes of civilization, we went on briskly. 
 
 On the 30th we came to a eudden descent from the high 
 land, indented by deep, narrow valleys, over which we had 
 lately been travelling. It is generally so steep that it can 
 only be descended at particular points, and even there 1 
 was obliged to dismount, though so weak that I had to be 
 led by my companions to prevent my toppling over in 
 walking down. It was annoying to feel myself so helpless, 
 for I never liked to see a man, either sick or well, give in 
 effeminately. Below us lay the valley of the Quango. If 
 you sit on thp spot where Mary Queen of Scots viewed the 
 battle of Langside, and look down on the vale of Clyde, 
 you may see in miniature the glorious sight which a much 
 greater and richer valley presented to our view. It is 
 about a hundred miles broad, clothed with dark forest, 
 except where the light-green grass covers meadow-lands on 
 the Quango, which here and there glances out in the sun 
 as it wends its way to the north. The opposite side of this 
 great valley appears like a range of lofty mountains, and 
 the descent into it about a mile, which, measured perpen- 
 dicularly, may be from a thousand to twelve hundred feet. 
 Emerging from the gloomy forests of Londa, this magnifi- 
 cent prospect made us all feel as if a weight had been lifted 
 off our eyelids. A cloud was passing across the middle of 
 the valley, from which rolling thunder pealed, while above 
 all was glorious sunlight ; and when we went down to the 
 part where we saw it passmg we found that a very heavy 
 thunder-shower had fallen under the path of the cloud, 
 and the bottom of the valley, which from above seemed 
 quit© smooth, we discovered to be intersected by groat 
 numbers of deep-cut streams. Looking back from below, 
 the descent appears as the edge of a table-land, with 
 nnmerous indented dells and spurs jutting out all along 
 
VALLEY OP THE QUANGO. 227 
 
 giving it a serrated appearance. Both the top and sidea 
 of the sierra are covered with trees; but large pacchea 
 of the more perpendicular parts are bare, and exhibit the 
 red soil which is general over the region we have now 
 entered. 
 
 The hollow affords a section of this part of the country; 
 and we find that the uppermost stratum is the ferruginouB 
 conglomerate already mentioned. The matrix is rust of 
 iron, (or hydrous peroxide of iron and hematite,) and in it 
 are embedded water-worn pebbles of sandstone and quartz. 
 As this is the rock underlying the soil of a large part of Londa, 
 its formation mi-st Im vc preceded the work of denudation by 
 an arm of the sea which washed away the enormous mass 
 of matter required before the valley of Cassange could as- 
 sume its present form. The strata under the conglomerate 
 are all of red clay shale of different degrees of hardness, 
 the most indurated being at the bottom. This red clay 
 shale is named " keele" in Scotland, and has always been 
 considered as an indication of gold ; but the only thing we 
 discovered was that it had given rise to a very slippery 
 clay soil, so different from that which we had just left that 
 Mashauana, who always prided himself on being an adept 
 at balancing himself in the canoe on water, and so sure of 
 foot on land that he could afford to express contempt for 
 any one less gifted, came down in a very sudden and un- 
 dignified manner, to the delight of all whom he had pre- 
 viously scolded for falling. 
 
 Sunday, April 2. — We rested beside a small stream, and 
 our hunger being now very severe, from having lived on 
 manioc alone since leaving longa Panza's, we slaughtered 
 one of our four remaining oxen. We could get neither 
 meal nor manioc, but should have been comfortable had not 
 the Bashinje chief Sansawe pestered us for the customary 
 present. The native traders informed us that a display of 
 force was often necessary before they could pass this man. 
 
 Sansawe. the chief of a portion of the Bashinje, having 
 sent the usial formal demand for a man, an ox, oi a tua^ 
 
228 THE CHIEF SANSAWE. 
 
 spoke very contemptuously of the poor things we offered 
 hjm instead. We told his messengers that the tusks were 
 Sekeletu's : every thing was gone except my instruments, 
 which could be of no use to them whatever. One of them 
 begged some meat, and, when it was refused, said to my 
 men, " You may as well give it, for we shall take all after 
 we have killed you to-morrow." The more humbly we 
 spoke, the more insolent the Bashinje became, till at last 
 we were all feeling savage and sulky, but continued to 
 speak as civilly as we could. They are fond of argument, 
 and, when I denied their right to demand tribute from a 
 white man who did not trade in slaves, an old white- 
 headed negro put rather a posing question : — " You know 
 that God has placed chiefs among us whom we ought to 
 support. How is it that you, who have a book that tells 
 you about him, do not come forward at once to pay this 
 chief tribute like every one else ?" I replied by asking, 
 " How could I know that this was a chief, who had allowed 
 me to remain a day and a half near him without giving me 
 any thing to eat ?" This, which to the uninitiated may 
 seem sophistry, was to the Central Africans quite a rational 
 question ; for he at once admitted that food ought to have 
 been sent, and added that probably his chief was only 
 making it ready for me, and that it would come soon. 
 
 After being wearied by talking all day to diflFerent par- 
 ties sent by Sansawe, wo were honored by a visit from 
 himself: he is quite a young man, and of rather a pleasing 
 countenance. There cannot have been much intercourse 
 between real Portuguese and these people even here, sc 
 close to the Quango, for Sansawe asked me to show him 
 my hair, on the ground that, though he had heard of it, 
 and some white men had even passed through his country, 
 he had never seen straight hair before. This is quite pos- 
 sible, as most of the slave-traders are not Portuguese, but 
 half-castes. The diflference between their wool and our haii 
 caused him to burst into a laugn, and the contrast between 
 the exposed and unexposed parts of my skin, when exhibited 
 
HOSTILITY OF iHiS BA8HINJB. 229 
 
 m evidence of our all being made of one stock originally, 
 and the children of one Maker, seemed to strike him with 
 wonder. I then showed him my watch, and wished to 
 win my way into his confidence by conversation; but, when 
 about to exhibit my pocket-compass, he desired me to de- 
 sist, as he was afraid of my wonderful things. 1 told him, 
 if he knew my aims as the tribes in the interior did, and 
 as I hoped he would yet know them and me, he would be 
 glad to stay, and see also the pictures of the magic lan- 
 tern ; but, as it was now getting dark, he had evidently got 
 enough of my witchery, and began to use some charms to 
 dispel any kindly feelings he might have found stealing 
 round his heart. He asked leave to go, and when his party 
 moved off a little way he sent for my spokesman, and 
 told him that, "if we did not add a red jacket and a man 
 to our gift of a few copper rings and a few pounds of meatj 
 we must return by the way we had come." I said, in 
 reply, " that we should certainly go forward next day, and 
 if he commenced hostilities the blame before God would 
 be that of Sansawe ;'' and my man added, of his own ac- 
 cord, "How many white men have you killed in this path?" 
 which might be interpreted into, " Tou have never killed 
 any white man; and you will find oiirs more difficult to 
 manage than you imagine." It expressed a determination, 
 which we had often repeated to each other, to die rather 
 than yield one of our party to be a slave. 
 
 Hunger has a powerful effect on the temper. When we 
 had got a good meal of meat, we could all bear the petty 
 annoyances of these borderers on the more civilized region 
 in front with equanimity; but, having suffered considerably 
 of late, we were all rather soured in our feelings, and not 
 onfrequently I overheard my companions remark in their 
 own tongue, in answer to threats of attack, "That's what 
 we want : only begin, then ;" or with clenched teeth they 
 would exclaim to each other, "These things have never 
 travelled, and do not know what men are." The worrying, 
 of which I give only a slight sketch, had considerable in- 
 
 30 
 
230 THE QUANGO. 
 
 fluence on my mind, and more especaily as it was impos- 
 sible to make any allowance for the Bashinje such as I 
 was willing to award to the Chiboque. They saw that we 
 had nothing to give, nor would they be benefited in the 
 least by enforcing the impudent order to return whence 
 we had come. They were adding insult to injury, and this 
 put us all into a fighting spirit, and, as nearly as we could 
 judge, wf. expected to be obliged to cut our way through 
 the Bashinje next morning. 
 
 3d April. — ^As soon as day dawned we were astir, and, 
 Betting off in a drizzling rain, passed close to th« village. 
 This rain probably damped the ardor of the robbers. 
 We, however, expected to be fired upon from every clump 
 of trees, or from some of the rocky hillocks among which 
 we were passing ; and it was only after two hours' march 
 that we began to breathe freely, and my men remarked, 
 in thankfulness, "We are children of Jesus." We con- 
 tinued our course, notwithstanding the rain, across the 
 bottom of the Quango valley, which we found broken by 
 clay shale rocks jutting out, though lying neai-ly horizon- 
 tally. We passed many villages during this drenching, 
 one of which possessed a flock of sheep; and after siz 
 hours we came to a stand near the river Quango, (lat. 9° 
 53' S., long. 18° 37' B.,) which may be called the boundary 
 of the Portuguese claims to territory on the west. As 1 
 had now no change of clothing, I was glad to cower under 
 the shelter of my blanket, thankful to God for his good- 
 ness in bringing us so far without loMng one of the 
 party. 
 
 ith April. — ^Wo were now on the banks of the Quango, a 
 river one hundred and fifty yards wide, and very deep. The 
 water was discolored, — a circumstance which we had ob- 
 served in no other river in Londa or in the Makololo 
 country. This fine river flows among extensive meadows 
 clothed with gigantic grass and reeds, and in a direction 
 nearly north. 
 
 We were advised not to sleep near it ; but, as we were 
 
DIFFICULTY WITH BASHINJE CHIEB 
 
 281 
 
 anxious to cross to the western side, we tried to induce 
 bome of the Bashinje to lend us canoes for the purpose. 
 This brought out the chief of these parts, who informed us 
 that all the canoe-men were his children, and nothing 
 eould be done without his authority. He then made the 
 usual demand for a man, an ox, or a gun, adding that 
 otherwise we must return to the country from which wo 
 had come. As I did not believe that this man had any 
 power over the canoes of the other side, and suspected that 
 
 BASHINJE CHIEF'S MODE OF WEARING THE HAIR. 
 
 if I gave him my blanket — the only thing I now had in 
 reserve — he might leave us in the lurch after all, I tried to 
 persuade my men to go at once to the bank, about two 
 miles off, and obtain possession of the canoes before we 
 gave up the blanket; but they thought that this chief 
 might attack us in the act of crossing, should we do so. 
 The chief came himself to our encampment and made hia 
 demand again. My men stripped off the last of their cop" 
 per ringa and gave them ; but he was still intent on a man. 
 
332 0PP0ETUNJ5 AID. 
 
 He thought, as others did, that my men were slaves. He 
 was a young man, with woolly hair elaborately dressed : 
 that behind was made up into a cone, about eight inohos 
 in diameter at the base, carefully swathed round with red 
 and black thread. As I resisted the proposal to deliver up 
 my blanket until they had placed us on the western bank, 
 this chief continued to worry us with his demands till I 
 was tired. My little tent was now in tatters, and, having 
 a wider hole behind than the door in front, I tried in vain 
 to lie down out of sight of our persecutors. We were on a 
 reedy flat, and could not follow our usual plan of h small 
 stockade in which we had time to think over and concoct 
 our plans. As I was trying to persuade my men to move 
 on to the bank in spite of these people, a young half-caste 
 Portuguese sergeant of militia, Cypriano di Abreu, made 
 his appearance and gave the same advice. He had come 
 across the Quango in search of bees'-wax. "When we 
 moved off from the chief who had been plaguing us, his 
 people opened a fire from our sheds, and continued to blaze 
 away some time in the direction wc were going ; but none 
 of the bullets reached us. It ia probable that they ex- 
 pected a demonstration of the abundance of ammunition 
 they possessed would make us run; but, when we con- 
 tinued to move quietly to the ford, they proceeded no 
 farther than our sleeping-place. Cypriano assisted us in 
 making a more satisfactory arrangement with the ferry- 
 man than parting with my blanket ; and as soon as we 
 reached the opposite bank we were in the territory of the 
 Bangala, , who are subjects of the Portuguese, and often 
 spoken of as the Cassanges or Cassantse ; and happily all 
 our difficulties with the border-tribes were at an end. 
 
 Passing with light hearts through the high grass by a 
 narrow footpath about three miles west of the river, we came 
 to several neat square houses, with many cleanly-looking 
 half-caste Portuguese standing in front of them to salute 
 QB They are all enrolled in the militia, and our friend 
 XJypriatio is the commander of a division established heire 
 
OYPRIARO'S GENEROUS HOSPITALITY. 283 
 
 We came to the dwelling of Cypriano after dark, and 1 
 pitched my little tent in front of it for the night. We had 
 the company of mosquitos here. We never found them 
 troublesome on the banks of the pure streams of Londa. 
 On the morning of the 5th, Cypriano generously supplied 
 my men with pumpkins and maize, and then invited me to 
 breakfast, which consisted of groundnuts and roasted 
 maize, then boiled manioc-roots and groundnuts, v/ith 
 guavas and honey as a dessert. I felt sincerely gi alcful 
 for this magnificent breakfast. 
 
 At dinner Cypriano was equally bountiful, and several 
 of his friends joined us in doing justice to his hospitality 
 Before eating, all had water poured on the hands by a 
 female slave to wash them. One of the guests cut up a 
 fowl with a knife and fork. Neither forks nor spoons were 
 used in eating. The repast was partaken of with decency 
 and good manners, and concluded by washing the hands as 
 at first. 
 
 Much of the civility shown to us here was, no doubt, 
 owing to the flattering letters of recommendation I carried 
 from the Chevalier Du Prat, of Cape Town; but I am 
 inclined to believe that my friend Cypriano was influenced, 
 too, by feelings of genuine kindness, for he quite bared his 
 garden in feeding us during the few days which I remained, 
 anxiously expecting the clouds to disperse so far as to 
 allow of my taking observations for the determination of 
 the position of the Quango. He slaughtered an ox for us, 
 and furnished his mother and her maids with manioc-roots, 
 to prepare farina for the four or five days of our journey to 
 Cassange, and never even hinted at payment. My wretched 
 appearance must have excited his compassion. 
 
 We were detained by rains and a desire to ascertain oui 
 geographical position till Monday, the 10th, and only got 
 the latitude 9° 50' S., and, after three days' pretty hard 
 travelling through the long grass, reached Cassange, the 
 farthest inland station of the Portuguese in Western Africa. 
 I inado my entrance in a somewhat forlorn state as to 
 
 20* 
 
834 ARRIVAL AT 0AS8ANGJ!. 
 
 dothiug among our Portuguese allies. The first gentleman 
 I met in the village asked if I had a passport, and said it 
 was necessary to take me before the authorities. As I was 
 In the same state of mind in which individuals are who 
 commit a petty depredation in order to obtain the shelter 
 and food of a prison, I gladly accompanied him to the house 
 of the commandant or Chefe, Senhor de Silva Eego. Having 
 shown my passport to this gentleman, he politely asked me 
 to supper, and, as we had eaten nothing except the farina 
 of Cypriano from the Quango to this, I suspect I appeared 
 particularly ravenous to the other gentlemen around the 
 table. They seemed, however, to understand my position 
 pretty well, from having all travelled extensively them- 
 selves : had they not been present, I might have put some 
 in my pocket to eat by night ; for, after fever, the appetite 
 is excessively keen, and manioc is one of the most unsatisfy- 
 ing kinds of food. Captain Antonio Eodrigues Neves then 
 kindly invited me to take up my abode in his house. Next 
 morning this generous man arrayed me in decent clothing, 
 and continued during the whole period of my stay to treat 
 me as if I had been his brother. I feel deeply grateful to 
 him for his disinterested kindness. He not only attended 
 to my wants, but also furnished food for my famishing 
 party free of charge. 
 
 The village of Cassange (pronounced Kassanje) is com- 
 posed of thirty or forty traders' houses, slattered about, 
 without any regularity, on an elevated flat spot in the great 
 Quango or Cassange valley. They are built of wattle and 
 daub, aind surrounded by plantations of manioc, maize, &o 
 There are about forty Portuguese traders in this district, 
 all of whom are officers in the militia, and many of them 
 have become rich from adopting the plan of sending out 
 pombeiros, or native traders, with large quantities of goods, 
 to trade in the more remote parts of the country. If 1 
 might judge from the week of feasting I passed among 
 them, they are generally prosperous. 
 
 As I always preferred to appeal in my own proper cha- 
 
PORTTIGtlESB J0R1OSITT 235 
 
 racter, 1 was an object of curiosity to these hospitable 
 Portuguese. They evidently looked upon me as an agent 
 of the English Government engaged in some new move 
 ment for the suppression of slavery. They could not divine 
 what a " missionario'' had to do with latitudes and longi- 
 tudes, which I was intent on observing. When we bocamt 
 a little familiar, the questions put were rather amusing : — 
 " Is it common for missionaries to be doctors ?" " Are you 
 a doctor of medicine and a ' doutor mathematico' too ? 
 You must be more than a missionary to know how to calcu- 
 late the longitude. Come ; tell us at once what rank you 
 hold in the English army." They may have given credit 
 to my reason for wearing the mustache, as that explains 
 why men have beards and women have none; but that 
 which puzzled many besides my Cassange friends was the 
 anomaly of my being a " sacerdote," with a wife and four 
 children ! I usually got rid of the last question by putting 
 another : — " Is it not better to have children with a wife than 
 to have children without a wife?" But all were most kind 
 and hospitable ; and, as one of their festivals was near, they 
 invited me to partake of the feast. 
 
 The anniversary of the Eesurrection of our Savior was 
 observed on the 16th of April as a day of rejoicing, though 
 the Portuguese have no priests at Cassange. The colored 
 population dressed up a figure intended to represent Judas 
 Iscariot, and paraded him on a riding-ox about the village : 
 sneers and maledictions were freely bestowed on the poor 
 wretch thus represented. The slaves and free colored popu- 
 lation, dressed in their gayest clothing, made visits to all 
 the principal merchants, and, wishing them " a good feast," 
 expected a present in return. This, though frequently 
 granted in the shape of pieces of calico to make new 
 dresses, was occasionally refused; but the rebuff did not 
 much affect the petitioner. 
 
 At ten A.M. we went to the residence of the commandant, 
 and, on a signal being given, two of the four brass guna 
 belonging to the Government commenced firing, and con- 
 
236 NO PREJUDIOE AQAINST COLOR 
 
 tisued some time, to the great admiration of my men, 
 whose ideas of the ^ower of a cannon are very exalted. 
 The Portuguese liag was hoisted and trumpets sounded, aa 
 an expression of joy at the resurrection of our Lord. Cap 
 tain Neves invited all the principal inhabitants of the place^ 
 and did what he could to feast them in a princely style 
 Ail manner of foreign preserved fruits and wine from Por 
 tugal, biscuits from America, butter from Cork, and beei 
 from England, were displayed, and no expense spared in 
 rendering the entertainment joyous. After the feast was 
 over, they sat down to the common amusement of caid- 
 playing, which continued till eleven o'clock at night. As 
 far as a mere traveller could judge, they seemed to bo 
 polite and willing to aid each other. They live in a fobrilo 
 district, and many of them had enlarged spleens. They 
 have neither doctor, apothecary, school, nor priest, and, 
 when taken ill, trust to each other and to Providence. As 
 men left in such circumstances must think for themselves, 
 they have all a good idea of what ought to be done m the 
 common diseases of the country, and what they have 
 of either medicine or skill they freely impart to each 
 other. 
 
 None of these gentlemen had Portuguese wives. They 
 usually come to Africa in order to make a little money, 
 and return to Lisbon. Hence they seldom bring theii 
 wives with them, and never can be successful colonists in 
 consequence. It is common for them to have families by 
 native women. It was particularly gratifying to me, who 
 had been familiar with the stupid prejudice against coloi 
 entertained only by those who are themselves becoming 
 tawny, to view the liberality with which people of color 
 were treated by the Portuguese. Instances, so commor 
 in the south, in which half-caste children are abandoned, 
 are here extremely rare. They are acknowledged at table, 
 and provided for by their fathers as if European. The 
 colored clerks of the merchants sit at the same table with 
 their employers .without any embarrassment The oivi} 
 
OOUNTKT ABOUND OASSANQE. 287 
 
 manners of superiors to inferiors is probably the result of 
 the position they occupy — a few whites among the usands 
 of blacks; but nowhere else in Afiica is there so much 
 good-will between Europeans and natives as here. If some 
 border-colonists had the absolute certainty of our Govern- 
 ment declining to bear them out in their arrogance, we 
 should probably hear less of Caffre insolence. It is inso- 
 lence which begets insolence. 
 
 From the village of Cassange wo have a good view of 
 the surrounding country : it is a gently-undulating plain, 
 covered with grass and patches of forest. The western 
 edge of the Quango valley appears, about twenty miles 
 off, as if it were a range of lofty mountains, and passes by 
 the name of Tala Mungongo, ("Behold the Eange.") In 
 the old Portuguese map, to which I had been trusting in 
 planning my route, it is indicated as Talla Mugongo, or 
 "Castle of Bocks!" and the Coanza is put down as rising 
 therefrom ; but here I was assured that the Coanza had 
 its source near Bihe, far to the southwest of this, and we 
 should not see that rivrer till we came near Pungo Andonga. 
 It is somewhat remarkable that more accurate information 
 about this country has not been published. Captain Neves 
 and others had a correct idea of the courses of the rivers, 
 and communicated their knowledge freely; yet about this 
 time maps were sent to Europe from Angola representing 
 the Quango and Coanza as the same river, and Cassange 
 placed about one hundred miles from its true position. 
 The frequent recurrence of the same name has probably 
 helped to increase the confusion. I have crossed several 
 Quangos, but all insignificant except that which drains this 
 valley. The repetition of the favorite names of chiefs, as 
 Catcnde, is also perplexing, as one Catende may be mis- 
 taken for another. To avoid this confusion as much as 
 possible, I have refrained from introducing many names. 
 Numerous villages are studded all over- the valley; but 
 these possess no permanence, and many more existed pro- 
 
288 SALE ojp ivoRr. 
 
 viouB to the Portuguese expedition of 1850 to punish tht 
 Bangala. 
 
 This valley, as I have before remarked, is all fertile in 
 the extreme. My men could never cease admiring its 
 capability for raising tneir corn (Solcus sorghum) and 
 despising the comparatively-limited cultivation of the in- 
 habitants. The Portuguese informed me that no manure 
 is ever needed, but that the more the ground is tilled th« 
 bettor it yields. Yirgin soil does not give such a heavy 
 crop as an old garden ; and, judging from the size cf the 
 maize and manioc in the latter, I can readily believe the 
 statement. Cattle do well, too. Viewing the valley as a 
 whole, it may be said that its agricultural and pastoral 
 riches are lying waste. Both the Portuguese and theii 
 descendants turn their attention almost exclusively to 
 trade in wax and ivory; and, though the country would 
 yield any amount of corn and dairy-produce, the native 
 Portuguese live chiefly on manioc, and the Europeans 
 purchase their flour, bread, butter, ind cheese from the 
 Americans. 
 
 As the traders of Cassange were the first white men we 
 had come to, we sold the tusks belonging to Sekeletu, which 
 had been brought to test the difference of prices in the Ma- 
 kololo and white men's country. The result was highly 
 satisfactory to my companions, as the Portuguese give 
 much larger prices for ivory than traders from the Cape 
 can possibly give, who labor under the disadvantage of con- 
 siderable overland expenses and ruinous restrictions. Two 
 muskets, three small barrels of gunpowder, and English 
 calico and baize sufficient to clothe my whole party, with 
 large bunches of beads, all for one tusk, were quite delight- 
 ful for those who had been accustomed to give two tusks 
 for one gun. With another tusk we procured calico, which 
 here is the chief currency, to pay our way down to the 
 coast The remaining two were sold for money to purchase 
 a horse for Sekeletu at Loanda. 
 
 The superiority of this now market was quite astound- 
 
DEPARTUEE PROM CASBANGE. 2S9 
 
 fag to the Makololo, and they began to abuse the traders 
 by whom they had, while in their own country, been visited, 
 and, as they now declared, " cheated." They had no idea 
 of the value of time and carriage, and it was somewhat 
 difficult for me to convince them that the reason of the dif- 
 ference of prices lay entirely in what they themselves had 
 done in coming here, and that, if the Portuguese should 
 carry goods to their country, they would by no means be 
 BO liberal in their prices. They imagined that, if the Cao- 
 sange traders came to Linyanti, they would continue to 
 vend their goods at Cassange prices. I believe I gave them 
 at last a clear idea of the manner in which prices were regu- 
 lated by the expenses incurred; and when we went to 
 Loanda, and saw goods delivered at a still cheaper rate, 
 they concluded that it would be better for them to come to 
 that city than to turn homeward at Cassange. 
 
 Mr. Eego, the commandant, very handsomely offered me 
 a soldier as a guard to Ambaca. My men told me that 
 they had been thinking it would be better to turn back 
 here, as they had been informed by the people of color at 
 Cassange that I was leading them down to the sea-coast 
 only to sell them, and they would be taken on board ship, 
 fattened, and eaten, as the white men were cannibals. I 
 asked if they had ever heard of an Englishman buying or 
 selUng people ; if I had not refused to take a slave when 
 she was offered to me by Shinte ; but, as I had always be- 
 naved as an English teacher, if they now doubted my inten- 
 tions, they had better not go to the coast ; 1, however, who 
 expected to meet some of my countrymen there, was deter- 
 mined to go on. They replied that they (Jnly thought it 
 right to tell me what had been told to them, but they did 
 not intend to leave me, and would follow wherever I 
 should lead the way. This affair being disposed of for tho 
 time, the commandant gave them an ox, and me a friendly 
 dinner before parting. All the merchants of Cassange 
 accompanied us, in their hammocks carried by slaves, to 
 the edge of the plateau on which their village stands, and 
 
240 A SOLDIEE-GUIDE. 
 
 we parted with the feeling in my mind that I should never 
 forget their disinterested kindness. They not only did 
 every thing they could to make my men and me comfort- 
 able during our stay, but, there being no hotels in Loanda, 
 they furnished me with letters of recommendation to their 
 friends in that city, requesting them to receive me into 
 their houses, for without these a stranger might find him- 
 «elf a lodger in the streets. May God remember them in 
 their day of need ! 
 
 The latitude and longitude of Cassange, the most easterly 
 station of the Portuguese in Western Africa, is lat. 9° 37' 
 30" S and long. 17° 49' B. ; consequently we had still about 
 three hundred miles to traverse before we could reach the 
 coast. We had a black militia-corporal as a guide. He was 
 a native of Ambaca, and, like nearly all the inhabitants of 
 that district, known by the name of Ambakistas, could both 
 read and write. He had three slaves with him, and was 
 carried by them in a "tipoia," or hammock slung to a pole. 
 
 Having left Cassange on the 21st, we passed across the 
 remaining portion of this excessively-fertile valley to the 
 foot of Tala Mungongo. We crossed a fine little stream 
 called the Lui on the 22d, and another named the Luare on 
 the 24th, and then slept at the bottom of the height, which 
 is from a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. 
 
 Situated a few miles from the edge of the descent, we 
 found the village of Tala Mungongo, and were kindly 
 accommodated with a house to sleep in, — which was very 
 welcome, as we were all both wet and cold. We found 
 that the greater altitude and the approach of winter 
 lowered the temperature so much that many of my men 
 Buffered severely from colds. At this, as at several other 
 Portuguese stations, they have been provident enough to 
 erect travellers' houses on the same principle as khans oi 
 caravanserais of the East. They are built of the usual 
 wattle and daub, and have benches of rods for the way 
 tkrer to make his bed on; also chairs, and a table, and a 
 large jiir of water. These benches, though far from lozu- 
 
THE QTJIZE. 241 
 
 rlouB ooucheu, wero better than the grotind uudor the 
 rotten iragmenus of my gypsy-tent, for we had still showers 
 occasionally, and the dews were very heavy. I continued 
 to use them for the sake of the shelter they afforded, until 
 I foimd that they were lodgings also for certain inconve- 
 nient bedfellows. 
 
 27th. — ^Fivo horns' ride through a pleasant country of 
 fovcst and meadow, like those of Londa, brought us to a 
 village of Basongo, a tribe living in subjection to the Por- 
 tuguese. Wo crossed several little streams, which were 
 flowing in the westerly direction in which we wore march- 
 ing, and unite to form the Quize, a feeder of the Coanza. 
 The Basongo were very civil, as indeed all the tribes were 
 who had been conquered by the Portuguese. The Basongo 
 and Bangala are yet only partially subdued. The farther 
 west we go from this the less independent we find the 
 black population, until we reach the vicinity of Loanda, 
 where the free natives are nearly identical in their feelings 
 toward the Government with the slaves. But the go- 
 vernors of Angola wisely accept the limited allegiance and 
 tribute rendered by the more distant tribes as better than 
 none. 
 
 We spent Sunday, the 30th of April, at Ngio, close to 
 the ford of the Quize as it crosses our path to fall into the 
 Coanza. The country becomes more open, but is still 
 abundantly fertile, with a thick crop of grass between two 
 and throe feet high. It is also well wooded and watered. 
 Villages of Basongo are dotted over the landscape, and 
 frequently a square house of wattle and daub, belonging to 
 native Portuguese, is placed beside them for the purposes 
 of trade. 
 
 Pitsane and another of the men had violent attacks of 
 fever, and it was no wonder; for the dampness and evapo- 
 ration from the ground was excessive. When at any time 
 I attempted to get an observation of a star, if the trough 
 3f mercury were placed on the ground, so much moisture 
 
 was condensed on the inside of the glass roof over it that 
 Q 21 
 
242 PETER — ARRIVAL AT AMBACA. 
 
 it was witn difficulty the reflection of the star coold be 
 seen. When the trough was placed on a box to prevent 
 the moisture entering from below, so much dew was de 
 posited on the outside of the roof that it was soon neces- 
 sary, for the sake of distinct vision, to wipe the glass. 
 This would not have been of great consequence, but a short 
 exposure to this dew was so sure to bring on a fresh fever 
 that I was obliged to give up observation by night alta» 
 gethcr. The inside of the only covering I now had was 
 not much better, but under the blanket one is not so liable 
 to the chill which the dew produces. 
 
 It would have afforded me pleasure to have cultivated a 
 more intimate acquaintance with the inhabitants of this 
 part of the country, but the vertigo produced by frequent 
 fevers made it as much as I could do to stick on the ox 
 and crawl along in misery. In crossing the Lombe, my 
 ox Sinbad, in the indulgence of his propensity to strike out 
 a now path for himself, plunged overhead into a deep hole, 
 and so soused me that I was obliged to move on to dry my 
 clothing without calling on the Europeans who live on the 
 bank. This I regretted, for all ^'le Portuguese were very 
 kind, and, like the Boers placed in similar circumstances, 
 feel it a slight to be passed without a word of salutation. 
 But we went on to a spot where orange-trees had been 
 planted by the natives themselves, and where abundance 
 of that refreshing fruit was exposed for sale. 
 
 On entering the district of Ambaca, we found the land- 
 scape enlivened by the appearance of lofty mountains in 
 the distance, the grass comparatively short, and the whole 
 country at this time looking gay and verdant. "We crossed 
 the Lucalla by means of a large canoe kept there by a man 
 who farms the ferry from the Government and charget, 
 about a penny per head. A few miles beyond the Lucalls 
 we came to the village of Ambaca, an important place in 
 former times, but now a more paltry village, beautifully 
 situated on a little elevation in a plain surrounded on all 
 bands by lofty mountains. It has a jail, and a good house 
 
FRUITS or JESUIT TEACHlNa. 243 
 
 for the commandant, but neither fort nor church, though 
 the ruins of a place of worship arc still standing. 
 
 Wo. wore most kindly received by the commandant qS 
 Ambaca, Arsenio do Carpo, who spoke a little English. 
 Ele recommended wine for my debility, and hero I took 
 the first glass of that beverage I had taken in Africa. I 
 folt much refreshed, and could then realize and meditate 
 on the weakening effects of the fever. They were curious 
 even to myself; for, though I had tried several times since 
 we left Ngio to take lunar observations, I could not avoid 
 confusion of time and distance, neither could I hold the 
 instrument steady, nor perform a simple calculation : hence 
 many of the positions of this part of the route were loft 
 till my return from Loanda. Often, on getting up in the 
 mornings, I found my clothing as wet from perspiration as 
 if it had been dipped in water. In vain had I tried to 
 learn or collect words of the Bunda, or dialect spoken in 
 Angola. I forgot the days of the week and the names of 
 my companions, and, had I been asked, I probably could 
 not have told my own. The complaint itself occupied 
 many of my thoughts. One day I supposed that I had got 
 the true theory of it, and would certainly cure the next 
 attack, whether in myself or companions ; but some new 
 symptoms would appear and scatter all the fine- specula- 
 Lions which bad sprung up, with extraordinary fertility, in 
 one department of my brain. 
 
 This district is said to contain upward of 40,000 souls. 
 Some ton or twelve miles to the north of the village of Am- 
 basa there once stood the missionary station of Cahenda' 
 and it is now quite astonishing to observe the great num- 
 bers who can read and write in this district. This is the 
 fruit of the labors of the Jesuit and Capuchin missionaries, 
 for they taught the people of Ambaca ; and ever since the 
 expulsion of the teachers by the Marquis of Pombal the 
 natives have continued to teach each other. These devoted 
 men are still held in high estimation throughout the" coun- 
 try to this day. All sneakwell of them, (os padres Jesuitas;) 
 
244 THE TAMPAN. 
 
 and, HOW that thoy are gone from this lower sphere, I coold 
 not help wishing that those onr Eoman Catholic fellow- 
 Christians had felt it to be their duty to give the people 
 the Bible, to be a light to their feet when the good men 
 themselves were gone. 
 
 When sleeping in the house of the commandant, an 
 insect, well known in the southern countiy by the name 
 tampan, bit my foot. It is a kind of tick, and chooses by 
 preference the parts between the fingers or toes for inflict- 
 ing its bite. !,It is seen from the size of a pin's head to that 
 of a pea, and is common in all the native huts in this coun- 
 try. It sucks the blood until quite full, and is then of s 
 dark-blue color, and its skin so tough and yielding that it 
 is impossible to burst it by any amount -of squeezing with 
 the fingers. I had felt the effects of its bite in former 
 years, and eschewed all native huts over after ; but, as I 
 was here again assailed in a European house, I shall detail 
 the effects of the bite. These are a tingling sensation of 
 mingled pain and itching, which commences ascending the 
 limb until the poison imbibed reaches the abdomen, where 
 it soon causes violent vomiting and purging. Where these 
 effects do not follow, as we found afterward at Teto, fever 
 sets in ; and I was assured by intelligent Portuguese there 
 that death has sometimes been the result of this fever. 
 The anxiety my friends at Tete manifested to keep my 
 men out of the reach of the tampans of the village made it 
 evident that they had seen cause to dread this insignificant 
 insect. The only inconvenience I afterward suffered from 
 this bite was the continuance of the tingling sensation i^ 
 the point bitten for about a week. 
 
 May 12. — As we were about to start this morning, the 
 commandant, Senhor Arscnio, provided bread and meat 
 most bountifully for my use on the way to the next sta^ 
 tion, and sent two militia-soldiers as guides, instead of ouj 
 Cassange corporal, who loft us here. About mid-day we 
 asked 'for shelter from the sun in the house of Senhor Mel- 
 lot, at Zangu; and, though I was unable to sit and engage 
 
OABINDA — GOLUNGO AlTO. 245 
 
 in conversation, I found, on rising from Ms couch, that he 
 had at once proceeded to cook a fowl for my use ; and at 
 parting he gave me a glass of wine, which prevented the 
 , violent fit of shivering I expected that afternoon. The 
 universal hospitality of the Portuguese was most gratify- 
 ing, as it was quite unexpected ; and even now, as I copy 
 my journal, I remember it all with a glow of gratitude. 
 
 We spent Sunday, the 14th of May, at Cabinda, which is 
 one of the stations of the sub-commandants, who are placed 
 at different points in each district of Angola as assistants 
 of the head-commandant, or chefe. It is situated in a 
 beautiful glen, and surrounded by plantations of hananas 
 and manioc. 
 
 We mot numbers of Mambari on their way back to BUio 
 Some of them had belonged to the parties which had pene- 
 trated as far as Linyanti, and foolishly showed their dis- 
 pleasure at the prospect of the Makololo preferring to go 
 to the coast-markets themselves to intrusting them with 
 their ivory. The Mambari repeated the talo of the mode 
 in which the white men are said to trade. " The ivory is 
 left on the shore in the evening, and next morning the 
 seller finds a quantity of goods placed there in its stead by 
 the white men who live on the sea." " Now," added they 
 to my men, " how can you Makolo trade with these ' mer- 
 men' ? Can you enter into the sea and tell them to come 
 ashoro ?" It was remarkable to hear this idea repeated so 
 near the sea as we now were. My men rephed that they 
 only wanted to see for themselves ; and, as they were now 
 getting some light on the nature of the trade carried on by 
 the Mambari, they were highly amused on perceiving the 
 reasons why the Mambari would rather have met them on 
 the Zambesi than so near the sea-coast. 
 
 There is something so exhilarating to one of Highland 
 blood in being near or on high mountains, that I forgot my 
 fever as we wended our way among the lofty tree-covered 
 masses of mica schist which form the highlands around the 
 romantic residence of the ohofe of Golungo AJto. (Lat. 9° 
 
 31* 
 
246 OABBIERS. 
 
 8' 30" S., long. 15' 2' E.) The whole district is extremely 
 beautiful. The hills are all bedecked with trees of various 
 hues of foliage, and among them towers the graceful palm, 
 which yields the oil of commerce for making our soaps and . 
 the intoxicating toddy. 
 
 We were most kindly received by the commandant, 
 Lieutenant Antonio Canto o Castro, a young gentleman 
 whose whole subsequent conduct will ever make me re- 
 gard him with great affection. Like every other person 
 of intelligence whom I had met, he lamented deeply the 
 neglect with which this fine country had been treated. 
 This district contained, by the last census, 26,000 hcai-ths 
 or fires ; and, if to each hearth we reckon four souls, we 
 have a population of 104,000. The number of carre- 
 gadoros (carriers) who may be ordered out at the pleasure 
 of Government to convey merchandise to the coast is in 
 this district alone about 6000 ; yet there is no good road 
 in existence. This system of compulsory carriage of mer- 
 chandise was adopted in consequence of the increase in 
 numbers and activity of oiir cruisers which took place in 
 1845. Each trader who went, previous to that year, into 
 the interior, in the pursuit of his calling, proceeded on the 
 plan of purchasing ivory and beos'-wax, and a sufficient 
 number of slaves to carry these commodities. The whole 
 were intended for exportation as poon as the trader reached 
 the coast. But when the more stringent measures of 1846 
 came into operation, and rendered the exportation of slaves 
 almost impossible, there being no roads proper for the em- 
 ployment of wheel-conveyances, this now system of com- 
 pulsory carriage of ivory and bees'-wax to the coast was 
 resorted to by the Government of Loanda. A trader who 
 requires two or three hundred carriers to convey his mer- 
 chandise to the coast now applies to the general Govern- 
 ment for aid. An order is sent to the commandant of a 
 district to furnish the number required. Each head-mao 
 of the villages to whom the order is transmitted most ftiiv 
 nish firom five to twenty or thirty men, according to the 
 
GOLUNGO ALTO 247 
 
 proportion that his people bear to the entire population of 
 tho district. For this accommodation the trader must pay 
 a tax to the Government of one thousand reis, or about 
 three shillings, per load carried. The trader is obliged to 
 pay the carrier also tho sum of fifty reis, or about two- 
 pence a day, for his sustenance. And, as a day's journey 
 is never more than from eight to ten miles, the expenso 
 which must be incurred for this compulsory labor is felt to 
 bo heavy by those who were accustomed to employ slavft- 
 labor alone. Yet no effort has been made to form a great 
 line of road for wheel-carriages. The first great want of » 
 country has not been attended to, and no development of 
 its vast resources has taken place. The fact, however, of 
 a change from one system of carriage to another, taken in 
 connection with tho great depreciation in tho price of 
 slaves near this coast, proves tho effectiveness of our effortb 
 at repressing the slave-trade on the ocean. 
 
 Tho latitude of Golungo Alto, as observed at the re- 
 sidence of the commandant, was 9° 8' 30" S., longitude 
 15° 2' E. A few days' rest with this excellent young man 
 enabled me to regain much of my strength, and I could 
 look with pleasure on the luxuriant scenery before his 
 door. . We were quite shut in among green hills, many of 
 which were cultivated up to their tops with manioc, coffee, 
 cotton, groundnuts, bananas, pineapples, guavas, papaws, 
 custard-apples, pitangas, and jambos, — ^fruits brought from 
 South America by tho former missionaries. 
 
 Wo left Golungo Altc on the 24th of May, — tho winter 
 m those parts. Every evening clouds come rolling in 
 groat masses over tho mountains in the west, and pealing 
 thunder accompanies tho fall of rain during the night oi 
 early in the morning. Tho clouds generally remain on the 
 hills till the morning is well spent, so that we become &mi- 
 liar with the morning mists, — a thing wo never once saw 
 at Kolobeng. The thermometer stands at 80° by day, but 
 Hinks as low as 76° by night. 
 
 In going westward we crossed several fine little jfaihing 
 
248 OOFFKB-ESTATK. 
 
 streams which never dry. They unite in the Luinha (pro- 
 nounced Lueenya) and Lucalla. As they flow over many 
 little cascades, they might easily be turned to good account: 
 but they are all allowed to run on idly to the ocean. We 
 passed through forests of gigantic timber, and, at an open 
 Bpace named Cambondo, about eight miles from Golungo 
 Alto, fbund numbers of carpenters converting these lofty 
 trees into planks, in exactly the same manner as was fol- 
 lowed by the illustrious Eobinson Crusoe. A tree of three 
 or four feet in diameter and forty or fifty feet up to the 
 nearest branches was felled. It was then cut into lengths 
 of a few feet, and split into thick junks, which again wore 
 reduced to planks an inch thick by persevering labor with 
 the axe. The object of the carpenters was to make little 
 chests, and they drive a constant trade in them at Cam- 
 bondo. "When finished with hinges, lock, and key, all of 
 their own manufacture, one costs only a shilling and eight- 
 pence. My men were so delighted with them that they 
 carried several of them on their heads all the way to 
 Linyanti. 
 
 At Trombeta wo were pleased to observe a great deal of 
 taste displayed by the sub-commandant in the laying out 
 of his ground and adornment of his house with flowers. 
 This trifling incident was the more pleasing, as it was the 
 first attempt at neatness I had seen since leaving the esta- 
 blishment of Mozinkwa in Londa. Eows of trees had 
 been planted along each side of the road, with pineapples 
 and flowers between. This arrangement I had an oppor- 
 tunity of seeing in several other districts of this country, 
 for there is no difficulty in raising any plant or tree if it is 
 only kept from being choked by weeds. 
 
 This gentleman had now a fine estate, which but a few 
 yearn ago was a forest and cost him only £16. Ho had 
 planted about nine hundred coflbe-treos upon it, and as 
 these begin to yield in throe years from being planted, and 
 in six attain their maximum, I have no doubt but that ore 
 now his £1 8 yields him sixty-fold. All sorts of fruit-troes 
 
MOSQTJITOS. 249 
 
 and grape-vines yield their fruit twice in each year, with- 
 out any labor or irrigation being bestowed on them. All 
 grains and vegetables, if only sown, do the same; and, if 
 advantage is taken of the mists of winter, even throe crops 
 of pulse may be raised. Cotton was now standing in the 
 pods in his fields, and ho did not seem to care about it. 1 
 understood him to say that this last plant flourishes, but the 
 wet of one of the two rainy seasons with which this coun- 
 try is favored sometimes proves troublesome to the grower. 
 I am not aware whether wheat has ever been tried, but 1 
 saw both figs and grapes bearing well. The groat com- 
 plaint of all cultivators is the want of a good road to carry 
 their produce to market. Hero all kinds of food are re- 
 markably cheap. 
 
 Farther on we left the mountainous country, and, as we 
 descended toward the west coaat, saw the lands assuming 
 a more sterile, uninviting aspect. On our right ran the 
 river Senza, which nearer the sea takes the name of Bengo 
 It is about fifty yards broad, and navigable for canoes. 
 The low plains adjacent to its banks are protected from 
 inundation by embankments, and the population is entirely 
 occupied in raising food and fruits for exportation to 
 Loanda by means of canoes. The banks are infested by 
 myriads of the most ferocious mosquitos I ever mot. Not 
 one of our party could get a snatch of sleep. I was taken 
 into the house of a Portuguese, but was soon glad to make 
 my escape and lie across the path on the lee side of the 
 fire, where the smoke blew over my body. My host won- 
 dered at my want of taste, and I at his want of feeling j 
 for, to our astonishment, he and the other inhabitants had 
 actually become used to what was at least equal to a nail 
 through the heel of one's boot, or the toothache. 
 
 As we were now drawing near to the sea, my com- 
 panions were looking at every thing in a serious light. One 
 of them asked me if wo should all have an opportunity of 
 watching each other at Loanda. " Suppose one went fbi 
 (rater: wooid the others see if he were kidnapped?* X 
 
250 FEARS or THE MAKOIiOLO 
 
 replied, "I see what you are driving at; and if you suspect 
 mo you may return, for I am as ignorant of Loanda as 
 you are; but nothing will happen to you but what happens 
 to myself. "Wo have stood by each other hitherto, and will 
 do so to the last." The plains adjacent to Loanda are 
 somewhat elevated and comparatively sterile. On coming 
 across these we first beheld the sea: my companions 
 looked upon the boundless ocean with awe. On describing 
 their feelings afterward, they remarked that " we marched 
 along with our father, believing that what the ancients had 
 always told us was true, that the world has no end; but all 
 at once the world said to us, 'I am finished: there is no 
 more of me !' " They had always imagined that the world 
 was one extended plain without limit. 
 
 They were now somewhat apprehensive of suffering 
 want, and I was unable to allay their fears with any pro- 
 mise of supply, for my own mind was depressed by disease 
 and care. The fever had induced a state of chronic dys- 
 entery so troublesome that I could not remain on the ox 
 more than ten minutes at a time; and as we came down 
 the declivity above the city of Loanda on the 31st of May, 
 I was laboring under great depression of spirits, as I under- 
 stood that, in a population of twelve thousand souls, there 
 was but one genuine English gentleman. I naturally felt 
 anxious to know whether he were possessed of good nature, 
 or was one of those crusty mortals one would rather not 
 meet at all. 
 
 This gentleman, Mr. Gabriel, our commissioner for the 
 suppression of the slave-trade, had kindly forwarded an invi- 
 tation to meet me on the way from Cassange, but, unfortu- 
 nately, it crossed me on the road. When we entered his 
 porch, I was delighted to see a number of flowers cultivated 
 carefully, and inferred from this circumstance that he wa^ 
 what I soon discovered him to be, a real whole-hearted 
 Englishman. 
 
 Seeing me ill, he benevolently offered me his bed. Never 
 ghaU I forget the luxurious pleasure I enjoyed in feeling 
 
CONTINUED SICKNESS. 25l 
 
 my»elf again on a good English couch, after six months' 
 slaoping on the ground. I was soon asleep ; and Mr. Ga- 
 briel, coming in almost immediately, rejoiced at the sound- 
 aesg of my repose. 
 
 CHAPTBE XX. 
 
 DB. LmNGSXONE COMMENCES HIS QEEAT JOURNEY ACROSS 
 AFRICA. 
 
 In the hope that a short enjoyment of Mr. Gabriel's 
 generous hospitality would restore me to my wonted vigor, 
 I continued under his roof; but, my complaint having been 
 caused by long exposure to malarious influences, I became 
 much more reduced than ever, even while enjoying rest. 
 Several Portuguese gentlemen called on me shortly after 
 my arrival; and the Bishop of Angola, the Eight Eeverend 
 Joaquim Moreira Ecis, then the acting governor of the 
 province, sent his secretary to do the same, and likewise to 
 offer the services of the Government physician. 
 
 Some of her majesty's cruisers soon came into the port, 
 and, seeing the emaciated condition to which I was re- 
 duced, offered to convoy mo to St. Helena or homeward ; 
 but, though I had reached the coast, I had found that, in 
 consequence of the great amount of forest, rivers, and 
 marsh, there was no possibility of a highway for wagons, 
 and I had brought a party of Sokeletu's people with mo, 
 and found the tribes near the Portuguese settlement so very 
 unfriendly that it would be altogether impossible for my 
 men to return alone. I therefore resolved to decline the 
 tempting offers of my naval friends, and take back my Mako- 
 lolo companions to their chief, with a view of trying to 
 maKe a path from his country to the oast coast by means 
 of the groat river Zambesi or Leeambyo. 
 
 I, ho-vrever, gladly availed myself of the medical asalBt 
 
852 MAKOLOLO'S VISIT TO THE SHIPS. 
 
 ance of Mr. Cockin, tho surgeon of the " Polyphcnms,' 
 at tho suggestion of his commander, Captain Phillips. Mr 
 Cockin's treatment, aided by the exhilarating presence 
 of tho •warm-hearted naval officers, and Mr. Gabriel's un 
 wearied hospitality and care, soon brought me round 
 again. On the 14th I was so far well as to call on the 
 bishop, in company with my party, who were arrayed in 
 now robes of striped cotton cloth and red caps, all pre. 
 Bcnted to them by Mr. Gabriel. He received us, as head 
 of tho provisional Government, in tho grand hall of tho 
 palace. He put many intelligent questions respecting tho 
 Makololo, and then gave them free permission to come to 
 Loanda as often as they pleased. This interview pleased 
 tho Makololo extremely. 
 
 Every one remarked the serious deportment of tho 
 Makololo. They viewed the large stone houses and 
 churches in the vicinity of the great ocean with awe 
 A house with two stories was, until now, beyond their 
 comprehension. In explanation of this strange thing, I 
 had always been obliged to use the word for hut ; and, as 
 huts are constmcted by the poles being let into the earth, 
 they never could comprehend how tho poles of one hut 
 could be founded upon tho roof of another, or how men 
 could live, in the upper story, with the conical roof of tho 
 lower one in the middle. Some Makololo, who had visited 
 my littlo house at Kolobeng, in trying to describe it to 
 their countrymen at Linyanti, said, " It is not a-hut : it is 
 a mountain with several caves in it." 
 
 Commander Bodingfeld and Captain Skene invited thorn 
 to visit their vessels, tho "Pluto" and "Philomel." Know- 
 ing their fears, I told them that no one need go if he 
 entertained the least suspicion of foul play. Nearly tho 
 Whole party went ; and, when on deck, I pointed to tho 
 sailors, and said, " Now, thoso are all my countrymen, sent 
 by our queen for tho purpose of putting down the trade of 
 those that buy and soil black men." They replied, " Truly I 
 they are just like you \" and all their fears seemed to 
 
UAKOLOLO AT MASS. 253 
 
 r&nish at onco, for. they went forward among the men, 
 and the jolly tars, acting much as the Makololo would have 
 dono in similar circumstances, handed them a share of the 
 broad and beef which they had for dinner. The com- 
 mander allowed them to fire off a cannon; and, having 
 the most exalted ideas of its power, they were greatly 
 pleased when I told them, " That is what ihcy put down 
 the slave-trade with." The sise of the brig-of-war amazed 
 them. " It is not a canoe at all : it is a town !" The 
 sailors' dock they named "the kotlaj" and then, as a 
 climax to their description of this groat ark, added, "And 
 what sort of a town is it that you must climb up into with 
 a rope ?" 
 
 The effect of the politeness of the officers and men on 
 their minds was most beneficial. Tliey had behaved with 
 the greatest kindness to me all the way from Linyanti, 
 and I now rose rapidly in their estimation ; for, whatever 
 they may have surmised before, they now saw that I was 
 respected among my own counti-ymen, and always after- 
 ward treated me with the greatest deference. 
 
 On the 15th there was a procession and service of the 
 mass in the Cathedral; and, wishing to show my men a 
 place of worship, I took them to the church, which now 
 serves as the chief one of the see of Angola and Congo. 
 There is an impression on some minds that a gorgeous 
 ritual is better calculated to inspire devotional feelings 
 than the simple forms of the Protestant worship. But 
 bore the frequent genuflexions, changing of positions, 
 burning of incense, with the priests' back turned to the 
 people, the laughing, talking, and manifest irreverence of 
 the singers, with firing of guns, &c., did not convey to the 
 minds of my men the idea of adoration. I overheard 
 them, "'n talking to each other, remark that "they had 
 seen the white men charming their demons;" a phrase 
 identical with one they had used when seeing the Balonda 
 beating drums before their idols. 
 
 In the beginm'ag of August I suffered a severe relapse, 
 
 32 
 
264 THEia JUDGMENT RESrEOTING GOODS. 
 
 which reduced mo to a mere skeleton.. I was then uuable 
 to attend to my men for a considerable time ; but, when in 
 oouvalescenco from this last attack, I was thankful to find 
 that 1 was free from that lassitude which, in my firni 
 recovery, showed the continuance of the malaria in the 
 system. I found that my men, without prompting, had 
 established a brisk trade in firewood. They sallied forth 
 at cock-orowing in the morning, and by daylight reached 
 the uncultivated parts of the adjacent country, collected 
 a bundle of firewood, and returned to the city. It was 
 then divided into smaller fagots, and sold to the inhabit- 
 ants ; and, as they gave larger quantities than the regular 
 wood-carriers, they found no difficulty in selling. A ship 
 freighted with coal for the cruisers having arrived from 
 England, Mr. Gabriel procured them employment in un- 
 loading her at sixponeo a day. They continued at this 
 work for upward of a month; and nothing could exceed 
 their astonishment at the vast amount of cargo one ship 
 contained. As they themselves always afterward ex- 
 pressed it, they had labored every day from sunrise to 
 sunset for a moon and a half, unloading, as quickly as they 
 could, "stones that burn," and were tired out, still leaving 
 plenty in her. With the money so obtained they purchased 
 clothing, beads and other articles to take back to their 
 own country. Their ideas of the value of different kinds 
 of goods rather astonished those who had dealt only with 
 natives on the coast. Hearing it stated with confidence 
 that the Africans preferred, the thinnest fabrics, provided 
 they had gaudy colors' and a large extent ui surface, the 
 idea was so new to my experience in the interior that I 
 dissented, and, in order to show the superior good sense 
 of the Makololo, took them to the shop of Mr. Schut. 
 When he showed them the amount of general goods which 
 they might procure at Loanda for a single tusk, I requested 
 thorn, without assigning any reason, to point out the fabrics 
 they prized most. They all at once selected the strongest 
 pieces of English calico and other cloths, showing that the) 
 
THS BISHOP OF ANGOLA. 255 
 
 had regard to strength without reference to color. I believe 
 that most of the Bechuana nation would have done the 
 same. But I was assured that the people near the coast, 
 with whom the Portuguese have to deal, have not so much 
 regard to durability. This probably arises from calico 
 being the chief circulating-medium, — quantity being thciD 
 of more importance than quality. 
 
 During the period of my indisposition, the bishop sent 
 frequently to make inquiries, and as soon as I was able to 
 walk I went to thank him for his civilities. His whole 
 conversation and conduct showed him to be a man of groat 
 benevolence and kindness of heart. Alluding to my being 
 a Protestant, ho stated that he was a Catholic from convic- 
 tion; and though sorry to sec others, like myself, following 
 another patii, he entertained no uncharitable feelings, nor 
 would ho ever sanction persecuting measures. He com- 
 pared the various sects of ChristiAns, in their Avay to 
 heaven, to a number of individuals cnoosing to pass down 
 the different streets of Loanda to one of the churches : all 
 would arrive at the same point at last. His good influencn, 
 both in the city and the country, is universally acknow- 
 ledged : he was promoting the establishment of schools, 
 which, though formed more on the monastic principle than 
 Protestants might approve, will no doubt bo a blessing. He 
 was likewise successfully attempting to abolish the non- 
 marriage custom of the country;- and several marriages 
 had. taken place in Loanda among those who, but for hie 
 teaching, would have been content with concubinage. 
 
 St. Paul do Loanda has been a very considerable city, 
 but is now in a state of decay, it contains about twelve 
 thousand inhabitants, most of whom are people of color.* 
 
 ♦ From the census of 1850-51 we find the population of this oity 
 arranged thus : — 830 whites, only 160 of whom are females This is the 
 largest colleotic:i of whites in the country, for Angola itselt oontains only 
 about 1000 whites. There are 2400 half-castes in Loanda, and only 120 
 of them slaves ; and there an 9000 blacks, more than 5000 of whom art 
 
 tlflVOfl 
 
256 ST. PAUL DE LOANDA. 
 
 There are various evidences of its former :nagnificeiice; 
 especially two cathedrals, one of which, once a Josait 
 college, is now converted into a workshop ; and in passing 
 the other wo saw with sorrow a number of oxen feeding 
 within its stately walls. Throe forts continue in a good 
 state of repair. Many large stone houses are to be found. 
 The palace of the governor and Government offices am 
 commodious structures, but nearly all the houses of the 
 native inhabitants are of wattle and daub. Trees are 
 planted all over the town for the sake of shade, and the 
 city presents an imposing appearance from the sea. It is 
 provided with an effective police, and the custom-house 
 department is extremely well managed. All parties agree 
 in representing the Portuguese authorities as both poUto 
 and obliging; and, if ever any inconvenience is felt by 
 strangers visiting the port, it must be considered the fault 
 of the system, and not of the men. 
 
 The harbor is formed by the low, sandy island of Loanda 
 which is inhabited by about 18,00 souls, upward of 600 of 
 whom are industrious native £shcrmen, who supply the 
 city with abundance of good fish daily. The space between 
 it and the mainland, on which the city is built, is the 
 station for ships. When a high southwest wind blows, 
 the waves of the ocean dash over part of the island, and, 
 driving largo quantities of sand before them, gradually fill 
 up the harbor. Great quantities of soil are also washed 
 in the rainy season from the heights above the city, so that 
 the port, which once contained water sufficient to float the 
 largest ships close to the custom-house, is now at low-water 
 dry. The ships are compelled to anchor about a mile north 
 of their old station. Nearly all the water consumed in 
 Loanda is brought from the river Bongo by means of 
 launches, tho only supply that the city affords being from 
 Bome deep wells of slightly-brackish water. UnsuccesBful 
 attempts hava been made by different governors to finish a 
 canal which the Dutch, while in possession of Loanda 
 daring the seven years preceding 1648, had begun, to bring 
 
CUSTOM-nOUSE ARRANGEMENTS. 267 
 
 water from tho river Ooanza to the city. There is not a 
 Bingle English merchant at Loanda, and only two American. 
 This is the more remarkable aa nearly aU the commerce is 
 carried on by means of English calico brought hither via 
 Lisbon. Several English houses attempted to establish a 
 trade about 1845, and accepted bills on Eio de Janeiro in 
 payment for their goods; but tho increased activity of our 
 omisers had such an effect upon the mercantile houses of 
 that city that most of thom failed. The English merchants 
 lost aU, and Loanda {^ot a bad name in the commercial 
 world in consequence. 
 
 One of tho arrangements of the custom-house may have 
 had some influence in preventing English trade. Ships 
 coming hero must bo consigned to some one on the spot ; 
 tho consigaco receives one hundred dollars per mast, and 
 he generally makes a great deal more for himself by put- ' 
 ting a percentage on boats and men hired for loading and 
 unloading, and on every item that passes through his hands. 
 The port-charges are also rendered heavy by twenty dollars 
 being charged as a perquisite of the secretary of Govern- 
 ment, with a fee for the chief physician, something for tho 
 hospital, custom-house officers, guards, &c. &c. But, with 
 all these drawbacks, the Americans carry on a brisk and 
 profitable trade in calico, biscuit, flour, butter, &c. &o. 
 
 The Portuguese home Government has not generally re- 
 ceived the credit for sincerity in suppressing the slave-trade 
 which I conceive to be its due. In 1839, my friend -Mr. 
 Gabriel saw thirty-seven slave-ships lying in this harbor, 
 waiting for their cargoes, under the protection of the guns 
 of the forts. At that time slavers had to wait many 
 months at a time for a human freight, and a certain sum 
 per head was paid to the Government for all that were ex. 
 ported. Tho duties derived from the exportation of slave* 
 far exceeded those from other commerce, and, by agreeing 
 to the suppression of this profitable traffic, the Government 
 flotually sacrificed the chief part of the export-revenue. 
 Since that period, however, the revenue from lawful com- 
 K 22» 
 
358 OONTIOT SOIJ)IXBS. 
 
 merce has very much exceeded that on slaves. The inten 
 dons of the home Portuguese Government, however good, 
 cannot be fully carried out under the present system, 
 The pay of the ofiScers is so very small that they are nearly 
 all obliged to engage in trade ; and, owing to the lucrative 
 nature of the slave-trade, the temptation to engage in it is 
 so powerful that the philanthropic statoBmon of Lisbon 
 ne«d hardly expect to have their humane and enlightened 
 views carried out. The law, for instance, lately promul- 
 gated for the abolition of the carrier-system (carrcgadorcs) 
 is but one of several equally humane enactments against 
 this mode of compulsory labor, but there is very little pro- 
 bability of the benevolent intentions of the legislature 
 being carried into eflfect. 
 
 Loanda is regarded somewhat as a penal settlement, and 
 those who leave their native land for this country do so 
 with the hope of getting rich in a few years and then re- 
 turning home. They have thus no motive for seeking the 
 permanent welfare of the country. The Portuguese law 
 preventing the subjects of any other nation from holding 
 landed property unless they become naturalized, the country 
 has neither the advantage of native nor foreign enterprise, 
 and remains very much in the same state as our allies found 
 it in 1575. Nearly aU the European soldiers sent out are 
 convicts, and, contrary to what might be expected from 
 men in their position, behave remarkably well. A few 
 riots have occurred, but nothing at all so serious as have 
 taken place in our own penal settlements. It is a remark- 
 able fact that the whole of the arms of Loanda are every 
 night in the hands of those who have been convicts. 
 Various reasons for this mild behavior are assigned by 
 the officers, but none of these, when viewed in connection 
 with our own experience in Australia, appear to be valid- 
 Religion seems to have no connection with the change. 
 Perhaps the climate may have some influence in subduing 
 their turbulent disposition, for the inhabitants generally 
 ore a timid race : thoy are not half bo bravo as our Ca&o» 
 
PRESENTS FOE SEKELETU. 25!> 
 
 The people of Ambriz ran away like a flock of sheep, and 
 allnwed the Portuguese to take possession of their copper- 
 mines and country without striking a blow. K we must have 
 wnvict-settlements, attention to the climate might be of 
 itSvantage in the selection. Hero even bulls are much 
 tamer than with us. I never mot with a ferocious one in 
 this country, and the Portuguese use thorn generally for 
 riding : an ox is seldom seen. 
 
 The objects which I had in view in opening up the 
 country, as stated in a few notes of my journey published 
 in the newspapers of Angola, so commended themselves to 
 the general Government and merchants of Loanda, that; 
 at the instance of his excellency the bishop, a handsome 
 present for Sekolotu was granted by the Board of Public 
 Works, (Junta da Fazcnda Publica.) It consisted of a 
 colonel's complete uniform and a horse for the chief, and 
 suits of clothing for all the men who accompanied me. Tht 
 merchants also made a present, by public subscription, ol 
 handsome specimens S£ all their articles of trade, and two 
 donkeys, for the purpose of introducing the breed into his 
 country, as tsetse cannot kill this beast of burden. These 
 presents were accompanied by letters from the bishop and 
 merchants; and I was kindly favored with letters of recom- 
 mendation to the Portuguese authorities in Eastern Africv 
 
 I took with me a good stock of cotton cloth, fresh sup 
 ^ries of ammunition and beads, and gave each of my men 
 a musket. As my companions had amassed considerable 
 quantities of goods, they were unable to carry mine; but 
 the bishop furnished me with twenty carriers, and sent for- 
 ward orders to all the commandants of the districts through 
 which we were to pass to render me every assistance i^ 
 their power. Being now supplied with a good new tont 
 made by my friends on board the Philomel, we left Loanda 
 •)n the 20th of September, 1854, and passed round by sea 
 to the mouth of the river Bongo. Ascending this river, we 
 wont through the district in which stand the ruins of the 
 Convent of St. Antonio ; thence mto IcoUo i Bengo, which 
 
860 SPINNING AND WEAVING. 
 
 oontaiuB a population of 6530 blacks, 172 mulattoes, and 11 
 whites, and is so named from having been the residence of 
 ft former native king. The proportion of slaves is only 
 8.88 per cent, of the inhabitants. The commandant of this 
 place, Laurence Jose Marquis, is a frank old soldier and a 
 most hospitable man : he is one of the few who secure the 
 universal approbation of their fellowrmen for stern unflinch- 
 ing honesty, and has risen from the ranks to be a major in 
 the army. "Wo were accompanied thus far by our generous 
 host, Edmund Gabriel, Esq., who, by his unwearied atten- 
 tions to myself, and liberality in supporting my men, had 
 become endeared to all our hearts. My men were strongly 
 impressed with a sense of his goodness, and often spoke of 
 bim in terms of admiration aU the way to Linyanti. 
 
 2Sth September, Kalungwembo. — Wo were still on the same 
 path by which we had come, and, there being no mosqui- 
 tos, we could now better enjoy the scenery. Ranges of 
 hills occupy both sides of our path, and the fine level road 
 is adorned with a beautiful red flower named Bolcamaria 
 The markets or sleeping-places are well supplied with pro- 
 visions by great numbers of women, every one of whom is 
 seen spinning cotton with a spindle and distaff exactly like 
 those which were in use among the ancient Egyptians. A 
 woman is scarcely ever seen going to the fi.elds — though 
 with a pot on her head, a child on her back, and the hoe 
 over her shoulder — ^but she is employed in this way. The 
 cotton was brought to the market for sale, and I bought & 
 pound for a penny. This was the price demanded, and 
 probably doable what they ask from each other. "We saw 
 the cotton growing luxuriantly all around the market- 
 places from seeds dropped accidentally. , It is seen also 
 about the native huts, and, so far as I could learn, it was 
 the American cotton, so influenced by climate as to b« 
 perennial. We met in the road natives passing with bun- 
 dles of cops, or spirdjos full of cotton thread, and these 
 they wore carrying i > other parts to bo woven into cloth. 
 The women ana the spinners, and the men perform the 
 
OOrPEE-PLANTATIONS. 261 
 
 weavftig. Bach web is about five feet long, and fifioon oi 
 eighteen inches wide. The loom is of the simplest construc- 
 tion, being nothing but two beams placed one over the other, 
 the web standing perpendicularly. The threads of the web 
 are separated by means of a thin wooden lath, and the 
 woof passed through by means of the spindle on which it 
 has oeen wound in spinning. 
 
 Numbers of other articles are brought for sale to these 
 sleeping-places. The native smiths there carry on their 
 trade. I bought ten very good table-knives, made ol 
 fioimtry iron, for twopence each. 
 
 Labor is extremely cheap, for I was assured that even 
 carpenters, masons, smiths, &c. might be hired for four- 
 pence a day; and agriculturists would gladly work for half 
 that sum. 
 
 Being anxious to obtain some more knowledge of this in- 
 teresting country and its ancient missionary-ostablishments 
 than the line of roul* by which we had come afforded, 1 
 resolved to visit the town of Massangano, which is situated 
 to the south of'Golungo Alto and at the confluence of the 
 rivers Lucalla and Coanza. This led me to pass through 
 the district of Cazengo, which is rather famous for the 
 abundance and excellence of its coffee. Extensive coffee- 
 plantations were found to exist on the sides of the seve- 
 ral lofty mountains that compose this district. They were 
 not planted by the Portuguese. The Jesuit and other mis- 
 sionaries are known to have brought some of the fine old 
 Mocha seed, and these have propagated themselves far and 
 wide : hence the excellence of the Angola coffee. Some 
 have asserted that, as now plantations were constantly dis 
 covered even during the period of our visit, the coffeo-troe 
 was indigenous; but the fact that pineapples, bananas, 
 yams, orange-trees, custard-apple-trees, pitangas, gnavas, 
 and other South American trees were found by me in the 
 •ame localities with the recently-discovered coffee would 
 ■eem to indicate that all foreign trees must have been 
 iBtroduccd by the same agency. It is known that the 
 
262 EtIINS OP mOM-roUNDRT. 
 
 Josuits also introduced many other trees for the sake of 
 their timber alone. Numbers of these have spread over 
 the country ; some have probably di^d out and others failed 
 to spread, like a lonely specimen that stands in what was 
 the Botanic Garden of Loanda, and, though most useful 
 in pelding a substitute for frankincense, is the only on» 
 of the kind in Africa. 
 
 Accompanied by the commandant of Cazengo, who was 
 well acquainted with this part of the country, I pro- 
 ceeded in a canoe down the river Lucalla to Massangano. 
 This river is about eighty-five yards wide, and navigable for 
 canoes from its confluence with the Coanza to about six 
 miles above the point where it receives the Luinha. Near 
 this latter point stand the strong, massive ruins of an iron- 
 foundry erected in the times (1768) and by the order of the 
 famous Marquis of Pombal. The whole of the buildings 
 were constructed of stone cemented with oil and lime. The 
 dam for water-power was made of the same materia,ls, and 
 twenty-seven feet high. This had been broken through by 
 a flood, and solid blocks, many yards in length, were can-icd 
 down the stream, afibrding an instructive example of the 
 transporting-power of water. There was nothing in the 
 appearance of the place to indicate unhealthiness; but 
 eight Spanish and Swedish workmen, being brought hitbei 
 for the purpose of instructing the natives in the art of 
 smelting iron, soon fell victims to disease and " irtegulari- 
 ties." The effort of the marquis to improve the mode of 
 manufacturing iron was thus rendered abortive. Labor 
 and subsistence are, however, so very cheap that almost 
 any amount of work can be executed at a cost that renders 
 expensive establishments unnecessary. 
 
 A party of native miners and smiths are still kept in the 
 employment of the Government, who, working the rich, 
 black, magnetic iron-ore, produce for the Government from 
 480 td 500 bars of good malleable iron every month. They 
 are supported by the appropriation of a few thousands of a 
 dmaH fresh- water fish, called "Cacusu," a portion of the tax 
 
MASSANQANO. 263 
 
 le<ad upon the fishermen of the Coanza. This fish is so 
 niuuh relished in the country that those who do not wish 
 to eat them can easily convert them into money The 
 commandant of the district of Massangano, for instance, 
 has a right to a dish of three hundred every morning, as 
 part of his salaiy. Shell-fish are also fouiiU in the Coanza, 
 »nd the " Pcixomulher," or woman-fish of the Portuguese, 
 which is probably a Manatee. 
 
 Wo found the town of Massangano on a tongue of rather 
 high land formed by the left bank of the* Lucalla and right 
 bank of the Coanza, and received true Portuguese hospi- 
 tality from Senhor Lubata. The town has more than a 
 thousand inhabitants : the district has 28,063, with only 
 315 slaves. 
 
 Massangano district is well adapted for sugar and rice, 
 while Cambambo is a very superior field for cotton ; but 
 the bar at the mouth of the Coanza would prevent the ap- 
 proach of a steamer into this desirable region, though a 
 small one could ply on it with case when once in. 
 
 The latitude of the town and fort of Massangano is 9° 
 S7' 46" S., being nearly the same as that of Cassango. The 
 country between Loanda and this point being compara- 
 tively flat, a railroad might be constructed at small ox- 
 pense. The level country is prolonged along the north 
 bank of the Coanza to the edge of the Cassange basin, and 
 a railway carried thither would be convenient for the trans- 
 port of the products of the rich districts of Cassange, 
 Pungo Andongo, Ambaca, Cambambo, Golungo Alto, C»- 
 zongo, Muchima, and Calumbo, — in a word, the whole of 
 Angola and independent tribes adjacent to this kingdom. 
 
 Eoturning by ascending the Lucalla into Cazengo, we 
 had an opportunity of visiting several flourishing coffee- 
 plantations, and observed that several men, who had began 
 with no capital but honest industry, had in the course of 
 a few years acquired a ■ comfortable subsistence. One of 
 these, Mr. Pinto, generously furnished me with a good 
 supply of his excellent cofi'co, and my men with a breed 
 
264 FEVEK — INSANITT. 
 
 of rabbits to cany to their own country. Their landi 
 granted by Government, yielded, without much labor, coffee 
 ufficient for all the necessaries of life. 
 
 On returning to Golungo Alto, I found several of my men 
 laid up with fever. One of the reasons for my leaving 
 them there was that they might recover from the fatigue 
 of the journey from Loanda, which had much more effect 
 upon their feet than hundreds of miles had on our way west- 
 ward. They had always been accustomed to moisture in 
 their own well-watered land, and wc certainly had a super- 
 abundance of that in Loanda. The roads, however, from 
 Loanda to Golungo Alto were both hard and dry, and they 
 Buffered severely in consequence ; yet they were composing 
 Bongs to be sung when they should reach home. The 
 Argonauts were nothing to them; and they remarked very 
 impressively to me, "It was well you came with Makololo; 
 for no tribe could have done what wo have accomplished 
 m coming to the white man's country : we are the true 
 ancients, who can tell wonderful things." Two of them 
 now had fever in the continued form, and became jaun- 
 diced, the whites or conjunctival membrane of their eyes 
 becoming as yellow as saffron ; and a third suffered from 
 an attack of mania. Ho came to his companions one day, 
 and said, "Eomain well. I am caUed away by the gods!" 
 and sot off at the top of his speed. The young men caught 
 him before he had gone a mile, and bound him. By gentle 
 treatment and watching for a few days he recovered. I 
 have observed several instances of this kind in the conntiy, 
 but very few cases of idiocy ; and I believe that continued 
 insanity is rare. 
 
DBSERTJED OONVENT. 26b 
 
 CHAPTBE XXI. 
 
 DE. UVINQSTONE VISITS PUNGO ANDONflO. 
 
 WratE waiting for the recovery of my men, I visited, in 
 company with my friend Mr. Canto, the deserted Convent 
 of St. Hilarion, at Bango, a few miles northwest of Golungo 
 Alto. It is situated in a magnificent valley, containing a 
 population numbering 4000 hearths. This is the abode of 
 the Sova, or Chief Bango, who still holds a place of autho- 
 rity under the Portuguese. The garden of the convent, 
 the church, and dormitories of the brethren are stiU kept 
 in a good state of repair. I looked at the furniture, couches, 
 and large chests for holding the provisions of the brother- 
 hood with interest, and would fain have learned something 
 of the former occupants; but all the books and sacred 
 vessels had lately been removed to Loanda, and even the 
 graves of the good men stand without any record : their 
 resting-places are, however, carefully tended. All speak 
 well of the Jesuits and other missionaries, as the Capuchins, 
 &c., for having attended diligently to the instruction of tho 
 children. They were supposed to have a tendency to take 
 the part of the people against tlie Government, and were 
 supplanted by priests, concerning whom no regret is ox- 
 pressed that they were allowed to die out. In viewing tho 
 present fruits of former missions, it is impossible not to 
 feel assured that, if the Jesuit teaching has been so per- 
 manent, that of Protestants, who leave the Bible in the 
 bands of their converts, will not be less abiding. 
 
 Tho chief recreations of the natives of Angola are mar 
 nages and funerals. When a young woman is about to be 
 married, she is placed in a hut alone and anointed with 
 various unguents, and many incantations are employed in 
 order to secure good fortune and fruitfulness. Here, as almost 
 everywhere in the south, the height of good fortune is to 
 
266 MARRIAGES AND PUNEEALS. 
 
 bear sons. They often leave a husband altogether if tUey 
 have daughters only. In their dances, when any one may 
 wish to deride another, in the accompanying song a line is 
 Introduced, " So and so has no children, and never will get 
 any." She feels the insult so keenly that it is not uncom- 
 mon for her to rush away and commit suicide. After some 
 •lays the bride elect is taken to another hut, and adorned 
 with all the richest clothing and ornaments that the rela- 
 tives can either lend or borrow. She is then placed in a 
 public situation, saluted as a lady, and presents made by 
 all her acquaintances are placed around her. After this 
 she is taken to the residence of her husband, where she 
 has a hut for herself, and becomes one of several wives, — foi 
 polygamy is general. Dancing, feasting, and drinking on 
 such occasions are prolonged for several days. In case of 
 separation, the woman returns to her father's family, and 
 the husband receives back what he gave for her. In nearly 
 all cases a man gives :i ]iricc for the wife, and in cases of 
 mulattoes as much as £60 is often given to the parents of 
 the bride. This is one of the evils the bishop was trying 
 to remedy. 
 
 In cases of death the body is kept several days ; and there 
 is a grand concourse of both sexes, with beating of drums, 
 dances, and debauchery, kept up with feasting, &c., accord- 
 ing to the means of the relative. The great ambition of 
 many of the blacks of Angola is. to give their friends an 
 expensive funeral. Often, when one is asked to sell a pig. 
 ao replies, " I am keeping it in case of the death of any oi 
 my friends." A pig is usually slaughtered and eaten on 
 the last day of the ceremonies, and its head thrown into 
 Ihe nearest stream or river. A native will sometimes 
 ikppear intoxicated on these occasions, and, if blamed for 
 his intemperance, will reply, " Why, my mothoi is dead !" 
 as if ho thought it a sufficient justification. The expenses 
 of funerals are so hoavj^ that often years elapse before they 
 can defray them. 
 
 These people are said to be very litigious and obstimato 
 
MISCONDUCT OP SLAVES. 267 
 
 constant disputes are taking place respecting their lands. 
 A. case came before the weekly court of the commandant 
 involving property in a palm-tree worth twopence. The 
 judge advised the pursuer to withdraw the case, as the 
 mere expenses of entering it would be much more than the 
 cost of the tree. " Oh, no," said he ; "I have a piece of 
 calico with me for the clerk, and money for yourself It's 
 my right: I will not forego it." The calico itself cost 
 three or four shillings. They rejoice if they can say of an 
 enemy, "I took him bcfoao the court." 
 
 My friend Mr. Canto, the commandant, being seized with 
 fever in a severe form, it afforded mo much pleasure to attend 
 him in his sickness who had been so kind to me in mine 
 He was for some time in a state of insensibility ; and I, 
 having the charge of his establishment, had thus an oppor- 
 tunity of observing the workings of slavery. When a 
 master is ill, the slaves run riot among the eatables. I did 
 not know this until I observed that every time the sugar- 
 basin came to the table it was empty. On visiting my 
 patient by night, I passed along a corridor, and unexpect- 
 edly came upon the washerwoman eating pineapples and 
 sugar. All the sweetmeats wore devoured, and it was 
 difficult for mo to get even bread and butter until I took 
 the precaution of locking the pantry-door. Probably the 
 slaves thought that, as both they and the luxuries wore the 
 master's property, there was no good reason why they 
 should be kept apart. 
 
 Debarred by my precaution from these sources of enjoy- 
 ment, they took to killing the fowls and goats, and, when 
 the animal was dead, brought it to me, saying, "Wo 
 found this thing lying out there." They then enjoyed b 
 foast of flesh. A fooling of insecurity prevails throughout 
 this country. It is quite common to furnish visitors with 
 the keys of their rooms. When called on to come to break- 
 fast or dinner, each locks his door and puts the key in his 
 pocket. At Kolobong wo never locked our doors by night 
 or by day for months together ; but there slavery is uiv 
 
268 LOSS OF aanoysEm). 
 
 known. The Portuguese do not seem at all bigoted in 
 their attachment to slavery, nor yet in their prejudices 
 against color. Mr. Canto gave an entertainment in order 
 to draw all classes together and promote general good-wiU 
 Two Bovas or native chiefs were present, and took their 
 places without the least appearance of embarrassment 
 The Sova of Kilombo appeared in the dress of a general 
 and the Sova of Bango was gayly attired in a red coat 
 profusely ornamented with tinsel. The latter had a band 
 of musicians with him, consisting of six trumpeters and 
 four drummers, who performed very well. These men are 
 fond of titles, and the Portuguese Government humors 
 them by conferring honorary captaincy, &c. : the Sova of 
 Bango was at present anxious to obtain the title of "Major 
 of all the Sovas." At the tables of other gentlemen I 
 observed the same thing constantly occurring. At this meet- 
 ing Mr. Canto communicated some ideas which I had written 
 out on the dignity of labor and the superiority of free over 
 slave labor. The Portuguese gentlemen present were anx- 
 iously expecting an arrival of American cotton-seed from 
 Mr. Gabriel. They are now in the transition-state from un- 
 lawful to lawful trade, and turn eagerly to cottou, coffee, and 
 sugar as new sources of wealth. Mr. Canto had been com- 
 missioned by them to purchase three sugar-mills. Our 
 cruisers have been the principal agents in compelling them 
 to abandon the slave-trade ; and our Government, in furnish- 
 ing them with a supply of cotton-seed, showed a generous 
 intention to aid them in commencing a more honorable 
 course. It can scarcely be believed, however, that after 
 Lord Clarendon had been at the trouble of procuring fresh 
 cotton-seed through our minister at Washington, and had 
 sent it out to the care of H. M. Commissioner at Loanda, 
 probably from having fallen into the hands of a few incorri- 
 gible slave-traders, it never reached its destination. It was 
 most likely cast into the sea of Ambriz, and my friends at 
 Golungo Alto were left without the means of commencing a- 
 new enterprise. 
 
ECLIPSE OF THE SUN. 269 
 
 Jfr. Canto mentioned that there is now mnch more cot- 
 ton in the country than can be consumed; and if he had 
 possession of a few hundred pounds ho would buy up all 
 the oil and cotton at a fair price, and thereby bring about 
 a revolution in the agriculture of the country. These 
 commodities aro not produced in greater quantity, because 
 the people have no market for those which now spring 
 up almost spontaneously around them. The j,bovo was 
 put down in my journal when I had no idea that enlarged 
 supplies of cotton from new sources wore so much needed 
 at home. 
 
 It is common to cut down cotton-trees as a nuisance, 
 and cultivate beans, potatoes, and manioc suflScient only 
 for their own consumption. I have the impression that 
 cotton, which is deciduous in America, is perennial here ; 
 for the plants I saw in winter were not dead, though going 
 by the name AlgodSo Americana, or American cotton. The 
 rents paid for gardens belonging to the old convents aro 
 merely nominal, varying from one shilling to three pounds 
 per annum. The higher rents being realized from those 
 in the immediate vicinity of Loanda, none but Portuguese 
 or half-castes can pay them. 
 
 When about to start, the horse which the governor had 
 kindly presented for Sekeletu was seized with inflamma- 
 tion, which delayed us some time longer; and we ultimately 
 lost it. 
 
 November 20. — ^An eclipse of the sun, which I had 
 
 anxiously hoped to observe with a view of determining 
 
 the longitude, happened this morning, and> as often took 
 
 place in this cloudy climate, the sun was covered four 
 
 minutes beiore it began. When it shone forth, the eclipse 
 
 was in progress, and a few minutes before it should 
 
 (according to my calculations) have ended the sun was 
 
 «gain completely obscured. The greatest patience and 
 
 perseverance are required if one wishes to ascertain his 
 
 position when it is the rainy season. 
 
 Before leaving, I had an opportunity of observing a 
 23* 
 
870 INSECTS WHICH DISTHi WATEB. 
 
 ffanous insect, which inhabits trees of the fig fanul/, 
 Ficusi) upward of twenty species of which are found 
 here. Seven or eight of them cluster round a spot on ono 
 of the smaller branches, and there keep up a constant dis- 
 tillation of a clear fluid, which, dropping to the ground, 
 forms a little puddle below. If a vessel is placed undei 
 them in the evening, it contains three or four pints of fluid 
 in the moiyiing. The natives say that if a drop falls into 
 the eyes it causes inflammation of these organs. To the 
 question, whence is this fluid derived, the people reply that 
 the insects suck it out of the tree; and our own natu- 
 ralists give the same answer. I have never seen an orifice, 
 and it is scarcely possible that the tree can yield so much. 
 A similar but much smaller homopterous insect, of the 
 family Cercopidm, is known in England as the frog-hopper, 
 (Aphrophora spumaria,') when full grown and furnished 
 with wings, but while still in the pupa state it is called 
 " Cuckoo-spit," from the mass of froth in which it envelops 
 itself The circulation of sap in plants in our eUmate, 
 especially of the graminacea}, is not quick enough to yield 
 mtich moisture. The African species is five or six times 
 the size of the English. In the case of branches of the 
 fig-tree, the point the insects congregate on is soon marked 
 by a number of incipient roots, such as arc thrown out 
 when a cutting is inserted in the ground for the purpose 
 of starting another tree. I believe that both the English 
 and African insects belong to the same family, and diffbi 
 only in size, and that the chief part of the moisture is 
 derived from the atmosphere. I leave it for naturalists to 
 explain how these little creatures distil both by night and 
 day as much water as they please, and are more indopon 
 dent than her majesty's steamships with their apparatus 
 for condensing steam; for, without coal, their abundant 
 Bupplies of sea-water are of no avail. I tried the following 
 experiment. Finding a colony of these insects busily dis- 
 tilling on a branch of the Ricinus communis, or casllbr-oil 
 plant, I denuded about twenty inches of the bai k on the tie* 
 
EXPERIMENTS. 271 
 
 Bide of the insocts, and scraped away the inner bark, so as 
 to destroy all the ascending vessels. I also cut a hole in 
 the side of the branch, reaching to the middle, and then 
 cut out the pith and internal vessels. The distillation 
 was then going on at the rate of one drop each sixty-seven 
 eeconds, or about 2 ounces 5J drachms in twenty-four 
 hours. Next morning the distillation, so far from being 
 aflfeoted by the attempt to stop the supplies, supposing 
 they had come up through the branch from the tree, was 
 increased to a drop every five seconds, or twelve drops 
 per minute, making one pint (16 ounces) in every twenty- 
 four hours. I then cut the branch so much that, during 
 the day, it broke j but they still went on at the rate of a 
 drop eveiy five seconds, while another colony on a branch 
 of the same tree gave a drop every seventeen seconds 
 only, or at the rate of about 10 ounces 4| drachms in 
 twenty-four hours. I finally cut off the branch ; but this 
 was too much for their patience, for they immediately 
 decamped, as insects will do from either a dead branch or 
 a dead animal, — which Indian hunters soon know when 
 they sit down on a recently-killed bear. The presence of 
 greater moisture in the air inorcased the power of these 
 distillers : the period of greatest activity was in the morn- 
 ing, when the air and every thing else was charged with 
 dew. 
 
 Having but one day left for experiment, I found again 
 that another colony on a branch denuded in the same way 
 yielded a drop every two seconds, or 4 pints 10 ounces in 
 twenty-four hours, while a colony on a branch untouched 
 yielded a drop every eleven seconds, or 16 ounces 2^^ 
 drachms in twenty-four hours. I regretted somewhat the 
 ▼ant of time to institute another experiment, namely, 
 to cut a branch and place it in water, so as to keep it in 
 hfe, and then observe if there was any diminution of the 
 quantity of water in the vessel. This alone was wanting 
 to make it certain that they draw water from the atmo- 
 sphere. I imagine that they have some power of which we 
 
272 ABRlVAIi AT AMBAOA 
 
 ore not aware, besides that nervous influence which causes 
 constant motion to our own involuntary muscles, the 
 power of life-long action without fatigue. The reader will 
 romeniber, in connection with tMs insect, the case of the 
 ants already mentioned. 
 
 December 14. — ^Both myself and men having recovered 
 from severe attacks of fever, wo left the hospitable resi- 
 dence of Mr. Canto with a deep sense of his kindness to 
 us all, and proceeded on our way to Ambaca. (Lat. 9° 16' 
 8V'S.,long.l5°23'B.) 
 
 Owing to the weakness of the men who had been sick, 
 we were able to march but short distances. Three hours 
 and a half brought us to the banks of the Caloi, a small 
 stream which flows into the Senza. 
 
 "We found, on reaching Ambaca, that the gallant old 
 soldier, Laurence Jose Marquis, had, since our passing 
 Icollo i Bengo, been promoted, on account of his stem 
 mtogrity, to the government of this important district. 
 The office of commandant is much coveted by the officers 
 of the line who come to Angola, not so much for the salary 
 as for the perquisites, which, when managed skilfully, in 
 the course of a few years make one rich. 
 
 Before leaving Ambaca we received a present of ten head 
 of cattle from Mr. Schut of Loanda; and, as it shows the 
 cheapness of provisions hero, I may mention that the cost 
 was only about a guinea per head. 
 
 On crossing the Lucalla wo made a detour to the south, 
 in order to visit the famous rocks of Pungo Andongo. Ae 
 soon as we crossed the rivulet Lotete, a change in the 
 vegetation of the country was apparent. We found trees 
 identical with those to be seen south of the Chobe. The 
 grass, too, stands in tults, and is of that kind which the 
 natives consider to be best adapted for cattle. Two species 
 of grape-bearing vines abound everywhere in this district, 
 and the influence of the good pasturage is seen in the plump 
 condition of the cattZe. In all my previous inquiries re- 
 specting the vegetable products of Angola, I was invariably 
 
PUNGO ANDONGO 273 
 
 diroctod to Pungo Andongo. "Do you grow wheat?" — 
 " Oh, yes, in Pungo Andongc." " Grapes, figs, or peaches?" 
 — "Oh, yes, in Pungo Andongo." "Do you make butter, 
 ofaeose, &c. ?" The uniform answer was, " Oh, yes : there 
 is abundance of all these in Pungo Andongo." But when 
 wo arrived here wo fbund that tho answers all referred to 
 thp activity of one man. Colonel Manuel Antonio Piros. 
 Tho presence of tho wild grape shows that vineyards might 
 bo cultivated with success; the wheat grows well without 
 irrigation; and any one who tasted tho butter and cheese 
 at the table of Colonel Pircs would prefer them to tho 
 Btale produce of tho Irish dairy in general use throughout 
 that province. The cattle in this country are seldom 
 milked, on account of the strong prejudice which the Por- 
 tuguese entertain against tho use of milk. They believe 
 that it may bo used with safety in the morning, but, if 
 taken after mid-day, that it will cause fever. It seemed 
 to me that there was not much reason for carefully avoid- 
 ing a few drops in their coffee after having devoured ten 
 times tho amount in tho shape of choose at dinner. 
 
 The fort of Pungo Andongo (lat. 9° 42' 14" S., long. 15" 
 30' E.) is situated in tho midst of a group of curious 
 columnar-shaped rocks, each of which is upward of three 
 hundred feet in height. They are composed of conglom©- 
 rate, made up of a groat variety of rounded pieces in a 
 matrix of dark red sandstone. They rest on a thick stra- 
 tum of this last rock, with very few of tho pebbles in ita 
 substance. On this a fossil palm has been found, and if of 
 the same ago as thoso on the eastern side of the continent 
 on which similar palms now lie, there may be coal under- 
 neath this, as well as under that of Teto. The assorted 
 existence of petroleum-springs at Dande, and near Cam- 
 bambo, would seem to indicate tho presence of this useful 
 mineral, though I am not aware of any one having actually 
 seen a seam of coal tilted up to tho surface in Angola, as 
 we havo at Tote. The gigantic pillars of Pungo Andongo 
 have boon formed by n current of the sea coming from the 
 
274 PUNGO ANDONQO 
 
 S.S.B. ; for, seen from the top, they appear arranged in that 
 direction, and must have withstood the surges of the ocean 
 at a period of our world's history when the relations of 
 land and sea were totally different from what they are now, 
 and long before "the morning stars sang together, and all 
 the sons of God shouted for joy to see the abodes prepared 
 trhich man was soon to fill." The embedded pieces ir 
 the conglomerate are of gneiss, clay shale, mica and sand- 
 stone schists, trap, and porphyry, most of which are laig« 
 enough to give the whole the appearance of being thi 
 only remaining vestiges of vast primeval banks of shin 
 gle. Several little streams run among those rocks, and 
 in the central part of the pillars stands the village, com- 
 pletely environed by wellnigh-inaccessiblo rocks. The 
 pathways into the village might bo defended by a small 
 body of troops against an army; and this place was long 
 the stronghold of the tribe called Jinga, the original pos- 
 sessors of the country. 
 
 In former times the Portuguese imagined that this place 
 was particularly unhealthy, and banishment to the black 
 rocks of Pungo Andongo was thought by their judges to 
 be a much severer sentence than transportation to any 
 part of the coast ; but this district is now well known to 
 be the most healthy part of Angola. The water is remark- 
 ably pure, the soil is light, and the country open and undu- 
 lating, with a general slope down toward the river Coanza, 
 a fovs» miles distant. That river is the southern boundary 
 of the Portuguese, and beyond, to the S. and S.W., we see 
 the high mountains of the Libollo. On the S.E. wo have 
 also a mountainous country, inhabited by the Kimbonda oi 
 4iabonda, who are said by Colonel Pi res to be a very brave 
 and independent people, but hospitable and fair in thoii 
 dealings. They are rich in cattle, and their country pro- 
 duces much beos'-wax, which is carefully collected and 
 brought to the Portuguese, w:"th whom they have alwaye 
 been on good terms. 
 
 The Ako, (Hako,) a branch of this family, inhabit the 
 
A MERCHANT-PRINCE. *^75 
 
 left bank 3f the Coanza above this village, who, instead 
 of bringing slaves for sale, as formerly, now occusionaUy 
 bring wax for the purchase of a slave from the Portuguese, 
 £ saw a boy sold for twelve shillings : he said that he be- 
 longed to the country of Matiamvo. Here I bought a pair 
 of woll-mado boots, of good tanned leather, which reached 
 ibove the knee, for five shillings and eightpence, and that 
 was just the price given for one pound of ivory by Mr 
 Pires : consequently, the boy was worth two pairs of boots, 
 or two pounds of ivory. The Libollo on the south have 
 not so good a character; but the Coanza is always deep 
 enough to form a line of defence. Colonel Pires is a good 
 example of what an honest, industrious man in this country 
 may become. He came as a servant" in a ship, and, by a 
 long course of persevering labor, has raised himself to be 
 the richest merchant in Angola. He possesses some thou- 
 sands of cattle, and, on any emergency, can appear in the 
 field with several hundred armed slaves. 
 
 While enjoying the hospitality of this merchant-prince 
 in his commodious residence, which is outside the rocks 
 and commands a beautiful view of all the adjacent country, 
 I learned that all my despatches, maps, and journal had 
 gone to the bottom of the sea in the mail-packet " Fore 
 runner." I felt so glad that my friend Lieutenant Beding- 
 fcld, to whoso care I had committed them, though in the 
 most imminent danger, had not shared a similar fate, that 
 r was at once reconciled to the labor of rewriting. 1 
 nvailed myself of the kindness of Colonel Pires, and re- 
 mained till the end of the year reproducing my lost 
 papers. 
 
 Colonel Pires having another establishment on the banks 
 of the Coanza, about six miles distant, I visited it with 
 him about once a week for the purpose of recreation. The 
 difference of temperature caused by the lower altitude was 
 seen in the cashew-trees ; for while, near the rocks, these 
 trees were bVit coming into flower, those at the lower sta- 
 tion wore ripening their fruit- Cocoanut-trees and bananaB 
 
S76 ANOIENT BUEIAL-FLAOK. 
 
 bear woU at tho lower station, but yield little or no fruit 
 at the upper. The difference indicated by the thermo- 
 meter was 7°- The general range near the rooks was 67° 
 tkt 7 A.M., 74° at mid-day, and 72° in the evening. 
 
 A slave-hoy belonging to Colonel Pires, having stolon 
 knd eaten some lemons in the evening, went to the rivoi 
 to wash his mouth, bo as not to bo detected by the flavor. 
 An alligator seized him and carried him to an island in the 
 middle of the stream : there the boy grasped hold of the 
 reeds, and baflled all tho efforts of the reptile to dislodge 
 him, till his companions, attracted hy his cries, came to his 
 assistance. Tho alligator at once let go his hold ; for when 
 out of his own element he is cowardly. Tho boy had many 
 marks of the teeth in his abdomen and thigh, and those of 
 the claws on his legs and arms. 
 
 Tho slaves in Colonel Pires' establishments appeared 
 more like free servants than any I had elsewhere SRon. 
 Every thing was neat and clean, — while generally, whore 
 slaves are the only domestics, there is an aspect of sloven- 
 liness, as if they went on tho principle of always doing as 
 little for their masters as possible. 
 
 In tho country near to this station were a largo number 
 of the ancient burial-places of the Jinga. These are simply 
 large mounds of stone, with drinking and cooking vessels 
 of rudo pottery on thorn. Some are arranged in a circular 
 form, two or three yards in diamotcr, and shaped like a 
 haycock. There is not a single vestigo of any inscription. 
 The natives of Angola generally have a strange predilec- 
 tion for bringing their dead to the sides of tho most fro- 
 qnented paths. They navo a particular anxiety to secure 
 the point where cross-roads moot On and around the 
 ^aves are planted troo-ouphorbias and other species of 
 that family. On tho grave itself they also place water 
 bottles, broken pipes, cooking-vossols, and somotimos a 
 little bow and arrow. 
 
 The Portuguese Government, wishing to prevent thin 
 onatom afSxed a penalty on any cne burying in tho roads. 
 
MANIOC THE CHIEF PRODUCT. 277 
 
 and appointed places of public sepulture in every district 
 in the country. The people persist, however, in spite oi 
 the most stringent enforcement of the law, to follow theij 
 ancient custom. 
 
 The country between the Coanza and Pungo Andongo is 
 'overod with low trees, bushes, and fine pasturage. In the 
 attor we were pleased to see our old acquaintances, the 
 gaudy gladiolus, Amaryllis toxicaria, hymanthus, and other 
 bulbs, in as flourishing a condition as at the Cape. 
 
 It is surprising that so little has been done in the way 
 of agriculture in Angola. Baising wheat by means of ir- 
 rigation has never been tried ; no plough is over used ; and 
 the only instrument is the native hoe, in the hands of 
 slaves. The chief object of agriculture is the manioc, 
 which does not contain nutriment sufficient to give proper 
 stamina to the people. The half-caste Portuguese have 
 not so much energy as their fathers. They subsist chiefly 
 on the manioc; and, as that can be eaten either raw, 
 roasted, or boiled, as it comes from the ground, or fer- 
 mented in water, and then roasted or dried after fermenta- 
 tion, and baked or pounded into fine meal, or rasped into 
 meal and#EOokcd as farina, or made into confectionary 
 with butter and sugar, it does not so soon pall upon the 
 palate as one might imagine when told that it constitutes 
 their principal food. The leaves boiled make an excellent 
 vegetable for the table ; and, when eaten by goats, their 
 milk is much increased. The wood is a good fuel, and 
 yields a large quantity of potash. If planted in a dry 
 soil, it takes two years to come to perfection, requiring 
 during that time one weeding only. It boars drought 
 well, and never shrivels up like other plants when d©- 
 Jirivad of rain. When planted in low, alluvial soils, and 
 either well supplied with rain or annually flooded, twelve, 
 or oven ten, months are sufficient to bring it to maturity 
 The root rasped while raw, placed upon a cloth, and rubbed 
 with the hands while water is poured upon it, parts with 
 ita Btarch}'^ glutinous matter, and this, when it settles at 
 
 24 
 
878 VISIT PROM A COLORED PRIEST. 
 
 tho bottom of the vessel and the water poured off, a 
 placed in the sun till nearly dry, to form tapioca. The 
 process of drying is completed on an iron plate over a slow 
 fire, the mass being stirred meanwhile with a stick, and 
 when quite dry it appears agglutinated into little globules 
 and is in the form we see the tapioca of commerce. Thi 
 is never oaten by weevils, and so little labor is required in 
 its cultivation that on the spot it is extremely cheap. 
 Throughout the interior parts of Angola, fine manioc-moal, 
 which could with ease have been converted either into supe- 
 rior starch or tapioca, is commonly sold at tho rate of about 
 ten pounds for a penny. AH this region, however, has no 
 means of transport to Loanda other than the shoulders of 
 the carriers and slaves over a footpath. 
 
 Cambambc, to which tho navigation of the Coanza 
 reaches, is reported to be thirty leagues below Pnngo 
 Andongo. A large waterfall is the limit on that side; and 
 another exists higher up, at the confluence of the Lombe, 
 (lat. 9° 41' 26" S. and about long. 16° E.,) over which hip- 
 popotami and elephants are sometimes drawn and killed. 
 Tho river between is rapid, and generally rushes over a 
 rocky bottom. Its source is pointed out as S.B^or S.S.E. 
 of its confluence with the Lombe, and near Bihe. The situa- 
 tion of Bihe is not well known. When at Sanza, we wore 
 assured that it lies nearly south of that point, and eight 
 days distant. This statement seemed to be corroborated 
 by our meeting many people going to Matiamvo and to 
 Loanda from Bihe. Both parties had come to Sanza, and 
 then branched ofl', one to tho east, tho other to the west. 
 The source of tho Coanza is thus probably not far from 
 Sanza. 
 
 I had the happiness of doing a little good in the way of 
 administering to the sick ; for there are no doctors in the 
 interior of Angola. Notwithstanding the general healthi- 
 ness of this fine district and its pleasant temperature, I was 
 Bttacked by the fever myself While confined to my room, 
 ft gentlonum of color, a canon of the Chursh, kindly psid 
 
THE KING OF CONGO. 279 
 
 me a visit. He was on a tour of visitation in the different 
 interior districts for the purpose of baptizing and marrying 
 He had lately been on a visit to Lisbon in company with 
 the Prince of Congo, and had been invested with an ordci 
 of honor by the King of Portugal as an acknowledgment 
 of his services. He had all the appearance of a true negro, 
 but commanded the respect of the people ; and Colonel P, 
 who had known him fc.'thirty years, pronounced him to be a 
 good man. There are only three or four priests in Loanda, 
 — all men of color, but educated for the office About the 
 time of my journey in Angola, an offer was made to any 
 young men of ability who might wish to devote themselves 
 to the tiervice of the Church to afford them the requisite 
 education at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. 1 
 was infoimed, on what scorned good authority, that the 
 Prince of Congo is professedly a Christian, and that there 
 are no fewer than twelve church eg in that kingdom, the 
 fruits of the mission established in former times at San 
 Salvador, the capital. These churches are kept in partial 
 repair by the people, who also keep up the ceremonies of 
 the Church, pronouncing some gibberish over the dead in 
 imitation of the Latin prayers which they had formerly 
 heUrd. Many of them can read and write. When a king 
 of Congo dies, the body is wrapped up in a great many 
 folds of cloth until a priest can come from Loanda to con- 
 secrate his successor. The King of Congo still retains the 
 title of Lord of Angola, which he had when the Jinga. the 
 onginal possessors of the soil, owed him allegiance ; and, 
 when he writes to the Governor of Angola, he places hiB 
 own name first, as if addressing his vassal. The Jinga 
 paid him tribute annually in cowries, which were found r n 
 the island that shelters Loanda Harbor, and, on refusing to 
 continue payment, the King of Congo gave over the island 
 to the Portuguese, and thns their dominion commenced in 
 this quarter. 
 
 There is not much knowledge of the Christian religion 
 in either Congo or Angola ; yet it is looked upon witii a 
 
880 DSPABTUSE FBOM PITNGO ANDONGO. 
 
 certain degree of favor. The prevalence of fever is pro- 
 bably the reason why no priest occupies a post m any part 
 of the interior. They come on tonrs of visitation like that 
 laentionod, and it is said that no expense is incurred, for 
 all the people are ready not only to pay for their services, 
 but also to furnish every article in their power gratuitously. 
 In view of the 'desolate condition of this fine missionary- 
 field, it is more than probable that the presence of a few 
 Protestants would soon provoke the priests, if not to love, 
 to good works. 
 
 CHAPTER XXll. 
 
 DE. LIVINGSTONE BEACHES THE LOAJIMA BTVEB. 
 
 January 1, 1855. — Having, through the kindness of 
 Colonel Piros, reproduced some of my lost papers, I left 
 Pungo Andongo the first day of this year, and at Can- 
 dumba slept in one of the dairy-establishments of my 
 friend, who had sent forward orders for an ample supply 
 of butter, cheese, and milk. Our path lay along the right 
 bank of the Coanza. This is composed of the same sand 
 stone rock, with pebbles, which forms the flooring of the 
 countiy. The land is level, has much open forest, and ia 
 well adapted for pasturage. 
 
 On reaching the confluence of the Lombe, we left the 
 river, and proceeded in a northeasterly direction, through 
 a fine open green country, to the village of Malange, where 
 we struck into our former path. A few miles to the west 
 of this a path branches off to a now district named the 
 Doke Braganza. This path crosses the Lucalla and several 
 of its feeders. The whole of the countiy drained by these 
 fai described as extremely fertile. The territory west of 
 Braganza is reported to be mountainous, well wooded- and 
 watered; wild coiTeo is abundant, and the people even 
 
MEETINO -WITH WATIVE TRADKBB. 28^ 
 
 Make their huts of coffee-trees. The rivers Dande, Senna, 
 and Lucalla are said to rise in one mountain-range 
 Numerous tnbes inhabit the country to the north, who are 
 all independent. The Portuguese power extends chiefly 
 over the tribes through whose lands we have passed. It 
 may be said to bo firmly seated only between the rivers 
 Dande and Coanza. It extends inland about three hun- 
 dred miles to the river Quango; and the population, 
 according to the imperfect data afibrded by the census 
 given annually by the commandants of the fifteen or six- 
 teen districts into which it is divided, cannot be under 
 600,000 souls. 
 
 Leaving Malange, we passed quickly, without deviation, 
 along the path by which we had come. At Sanza (lat. 9" 
 37' 46" S., long. 16° 59' B.) wo expected to get a little seed- 
 wheat, but this was not now to be found in Angola. 
 
 While at Tala Mungongo, we met a native of Biho who 
 nas visited the country of Shinto three times for the pui* 
 poses of trade. He gave us some of the news of that dis- 
 tant part, but not a word of the Makololo, who have always 
 been represented in the countries to the north as a despe- 
 rately-savage race, whom no trader could visit with safety. 
 The half-caste traders whom wo mot at Shinte's had re- 
 turned to Angola with sixty-six slaves and upward of fifty 
 tusks of ivory. As wo came along the path, we daily met 
 long lines of carriers bearing largo square masses of bees'- 
 wax, each about a hundred pounds' weight, and numbers 
 of elephants' tusks, the property of Angolese merchants. 
 Many natives were proceeding to the coast also on their 
 own a:;count, carrying bees'-wax, ivory, and sweet oil. 
 They appeared to travel in perfect security ; and at differ- 
 ent parts of the road we purchased fowls from them at a 
 penny each. My men took care to cole orate their own 
 daring in having actually entered ships, while the natives 
 of these parts, who had endeavored to frighten them on 
 their way down, had only seen them at a distance. Poor 
 fellows I they were more than ever attentive to me ; and 
 
 21* 
 
282 OASSANGf: village. 
 
 as tlioy •wore not obliged to erect sheds for thcmselres, in 
 consequence of finding them already built at the different 
 sleeping-places, all their care was bestowed in making me 
 comfortable. Mashauana, as usual, made his bed with hii 
 head close to my feet, and never during the entire journey 
 did I have to call him twice for any thing I needed. 
 
 January 15, 1855. — We descended in one hour from the 
 heights of Tala Mungongo. I counted the number of pace? 
 made on the slope downward, and found them to be sixteen 
 hundred, which may give a perpendicular height of from 
 twelve to fifteen hundred feet. 
 
 Before we reached Cassange we were overtaken by the 
 commandant, Senhor Carvalho, who was returning, with a 
 detachment of fifty men and a field-piece, from an unsuc 
 cessful search after some rebels. The rebels had fled, and 
 all he could do was to burn their huts. He kindly invited 
 me to take up my residence with him; but, not wishing to 
 pass by the gentleman (Captain Neves) who had so kindly 
 received me on my first aiTival in the Portuguese pos- 
 eessions, I declined. Senhor Eego had been superseded in 
 his command, because the Governor Amaral, who had come 
 into office since my departure from Loanda, had determined 
 that the law which requires the office of commandant to be 
 exclusively occupied by military officers of the line should 
 once more come into operation. I was again most kindly 
 welcomed by my friend Captain Neves, whom I found 
 laboring under a violent inflammation and abscess of the 
 hand. There is nothing in the situation of this village to 
 indicate unhealthiness, except, perhaps, the rank Inxu 
 nance of the vegetation. Nearly all the Portuguese in- 
 habitants suffer from enlargement of the spleen, the effects 
 of freauent intermittents, and nave generally a sickly ap- 
 pearance. Thinking that th'^s affection of the hand was 
 simply an effort of nature to get rid of malarious mattei 
 from the system, I recommended the use of quinine. He 
 himself applied the leaf of a plant called cathory, famed 
 among the natives as an excellent remedy for ulcers. The 
 
THE OBDXAIi 283 
 
 calhory-leaves, when boiled, exude a giimmy juice, which 
 effectually shuts out the external air. Each remedy, of 
 course, claimed the merit of the cure. 
 
 Many of the children are out off by fever. A fine boy 
 of Captain Neves' had, since my passage westward, shared 
 a similar fate. Another child died during the period of 
 my visit. 
 
 The intercourse which the natives have had with white 
 men does not scorn to have much ameliorated their con- 
 dition. A groat number of persons are reported to lose 
 their lives annually in different districts of 'Angola by the 
 cruel superstitions to which they are addicted, and tho 
 Portuguese authorities either know nothing of them or are 
 unable to prevent their occurrence. Tho natives are bound 
 to secrecy by those who administer the ordeal, which gene- 
 rally causes the death of tho victim. A person, when ac- 
 cused of witchcraft, will often travel from distant districts 
 in order to assert her innocency and bravo tho test. They 
 come to a river on the Cassango called Dua, drink the 
 infusion of a poisonous tree, and perish unknown. 
 
 The same supertititious ideas being prevalent through 
 tho whole of tho country north of the Zambesi seems to 
 indicate that the people must originally have been one. 
 All believe that tho souls of the departed still mingle 
 among the living and partake in some way of tho food 
 they consume. 
 
 The chieftainiship is elective from certain families. Among 
 the Bangalas of tho Cassango valley the chief is chosen 
 from three families in rotation. A chief's brother inherits 
 in preference to his son. The sons of a sister belong to her 
 brother ; and ho often sells his i-ephews to pay his debts 
 By this and other unnatural customs, more than by war, it 
 tho slave-market supplied. 
 
 While hero, I reproduced the last ot my lost papers and 
 maps ; and, as tnero is a post twice a month from Loanda, 
 I had tho happiness to receive a packet of the "Times,'' 
 «id, amcag other nowa, an account of tho Eussian war up 
 
Z84 TaASINQ POMBEIBOS. 
 
 to the terrible charge of the light cavalry. The intense 
 anxiety I felt to hear more may bo imagined by overj 
 true patriot J but I was forced to brood on in silent 
 thought, and utter my poor prayers for friends who per- 
 cbanco were now no more, until I reached the other side 
 of the Continent. 
 
 A considerable trade is carried on by the Cassango mer- 
 chants with all the surrounding territory by means of 
 native traders, whom they term "pombeiros." Two of 
 those, called in the history of Angola "the trading blacks," 
 (os feirantes protos,) Pedro Joao Baptista and Antonio 
 Jose, having been sent by the first Portuguese trader that 
 lived at Cassange, actually returned from some of the Por- 
 tuguese possessions in the East with letters from the 
 governor of Mozambique in the year 1815, proving, as is 
 remarked, " the possibility of so important a communica- 
 tion between Mozambique and Loanda." This is the only 
 instance of native Portuguese subjects crossing the conti- 
 nent. No European ever accomplished it, though this 
 fact has lately been quoted as if the men had been 
 "Portuguese." 
 
 Captain Neves was now actively engaged in preparing 
 a present, worth about fifty pounds, to be sent by pom- 
 beix'os to Matiamvo. It consisted of great quantities of 
 oocton cloth, a large carpet, an arm-chair with a canopy 
 had curtains of crimson calico, an iron bedstead, mosquito- 
 curtains, beads, &c., and a number of pictures rudely 
 painted in oil by an embryo black painter at Cassange. 
 
 Matiamvo, like most of the natives in the interior of the 
 country, has a strong desire to possess a cannon, and had 
 »ent ten large tusks to purchase one ; but, being Govern- 
 ment property, it could not bo sold : he was now furnished 
 with a blunderbuss mounted as a cannon, which would 
 prooably please him as well. 
 
 Senhor Gra5a and some other Portuguese have visited 
 this chief at different times: but no European resides 
 beyond the Quango : indeed, it is contrary to the policy of 
 
A LABQE TUSK. 281i 
 
 (he Grovemment of Angola to allow thoir subjocts to pene- 
 trate farther into the interior. The present would have 
 been a good opportunity for mo to have visited that chief, 
 and 1 felt strongly inclined to do so, as he had expressed 
 dissatisfaction respecting my treatment by tho Ohiboque, 
 and even threatened to punish thom. As it would bo im 
 proper to force my men to go thither, [ resolved to wait 
 and see whether the proposition might not emanate from 
 themselves. When I can get tho natives to agree in tho 
 propriety of any step, they go to the end of the aflair 
 without a murmur. I speak to them and treat them aa 
 rational beings, and generally get on well with them in 
 consequence. 
 
 February 20. — On the day of starting from Cassango tho 
 westerly wind blew strongly, and on the day following we 
 were brought to a stand by several of our party being laid 
 up with fever. This complaint is tho only serious draw- 
 back Angola possesses. It is in every other respect an 
 agreeable land, and admirably adapted for yielding a rich 
 abundance of tropical produce for the rest of the world. 
 Indeed, I have no hesitation in assorting that, had it been 
 in the possession of England, it would now have been 
 yielding as much or more of the raw material for her 
 manufactures as an equal extent of territory in tho cotton- 
 growing States of America. A railway from Loanda to 
 this valley would secure tho trade of most of tho interior 
 of South Central Africa. 
 
 As soon as wo could move toward tho Quango wo did so, 
 meeting in our course several trading-parties, both native 
 and Portuguese. "We mot two of the latter carrying a 
 tusk weighing 126 lbs. Tho owner afterward informed us 
 that its fellow on tho loft side of the same elephant was 130 
 lbs. It was 8 foot 6i inches long, and 21 inches in circum 
 ferenco at the part on which the lip of the animal rests. 
 The elephant was rather a small one, as is common in this 
 hot central region. Some idea may be formed of tho 
 strength of his neck when it is recollected that he bore a 
 
286 RENEWED ATTACK OF PEVEH. 
 
 weight of 256 lbs The ivory which comes from the east 
 and northeast of Cassaiige is very much larger than any 
 to bo found farther south. Captain Neves had one weigh 
 ing 120 lbs. ; and this weight is by no means uncommor 
 They have been found weighing even 158 lbs. 
 
 Before reaching the Quango we were again brought to 
 a stand, by fever in two of my companions, close to the 
 residence of a Portuguese who rejoiced in the name ox 
 William Tell and who lived hero in spite of the prohibition 
 of the Government. We were using the water of a pondj 
 and this gentleman, "having come to invite me to dinnoi; 
 drank a little of it, and caught fever in consequence. If 
 malarious matter existed in water, it would have been a 
 wonder had wo escaped; for, travelling in the sun, Wjtb 
 the thermometer from 96° to 98° in the shade, the evapora- 
 tion from our bodies causing much thirst, wo gcncrallj' 
 partook of every water wo came to. Wo had probably 
 thus more disease than others might suffer who had bettor 
 shelter. 
 
 Mr. Tell remarked that his garden was rather barren, 
 being still, as he said, wild; but when more worked it 
 would become better, though no manure be applied. My 
 men were busy collecting a better breed of fowls and 
 pigeons than those in their own countiy. Mr. Tell pre- 
 sented them with some large specimens from Eio Janeiro. 
 Of these they were wonderfully proud, and bore the cock 
 in triumph through the country of tho Balonda, as evidence 
 ot having been to the sea. But when at the village of 
 Shinte a hyena came into our midst when we were all 
 sound asleep, and picked out the giant in his basket from 
 eighty-four others, and ho was lost, to the great grief of 
 my men. Tho anxiety these people have always nhown to 
 improve the breed of their domestic animals is, J think, a 
 favorable. point in their character. 
 
 On coming back to Cypriano's village on the 28th, we 
 found his step-father had died after we had passed, and, 
 according to the custom of the country, ho lad spent mor^ 
 
STIPERSTITIOTJS FEABB. 287 
 
 tiKin his patrimony in funeral orgies. Ho acted with hie 
 wonted kindness, though, unfortunately, drinking has got 
 him so deeply in debt that he now keeps out of the way of 
 his creditors. He informed us that the source of the 
 Quango is eight days, or one hundred miles, to the south 
 of this, and in a range called Mosamba, in the country of 
 the Basongo. We can see from this a sort of break in the 
 high land which stretches away round to Tala Mongongo, 
 through which the river comes. 
 
 A death had occurred in a village about a mile off, and 
 tiie people were busy beating drums and firing guns. The 
 funeral rites are half festive, half mourning, partaking 
 somewhat of the character of an Irish wake. There is 
 QOthing more heart-rending than their death-wails. When 
 the natives lurn their eyes to the future world, they have 
 a view cheerless enough of their own utter helplessness 
 and hopelessness. They fancy themselves completely in 
 the power of the disembodied spirits, and look upon the 
 prospect of loUowing them as the greatest of misfortunes. 
 Hence they arc constantly deprecating the wrath of de- 
 parted souls, believing that, if thoy are appeased, there is 
 no other cause of death but witchcraft, which may be 
 averted by charms. 
 
 Wo wore informed that a chief named Gando, living on 
 the other side of the river, having been accused of witch- 
 craft, was killed by the ordeal, and his body thrown into 
 the Quango. 
 
 The ferrymen demanded thirty yards of calico, but 
 received six thankfully. The canoes were wretched, carry- 
 ing only two persons at a time ; but, my men being well 
 acquainted with the water, we all got over in about two 
 aours and a half They excited the admiration of the 
 mhabitants by the manner in which they managed the 
 cattle and donkeys in crossing. 
 
 On the eastern side of the Quango we passed on, without 
 visiting our friend of the conical head-dress, to the rosi- 
 donco ^t some Ambakistas who had crossed the rivor In 
 
SS88 AMBAKIBTAS — ^BASHINJX. 
 
 order t« aocure the first chances of trade in wax. I have 
 Odlbro remarked on the knowledge of reading and writing 
 that these Ambakistas possess; they are famed for their 
 love of all sorts of learning within their reach, a knowledge 
 of the history of Portugal, Portuguese law, &c. &e. They 
 are remarkably keen in trade, and are sometimes called 
 ihe Jews of Angola. They are employed as clerks and 
 writers, their feminine aolicacy of constitution enabling 
 them to write a fine lady's hand, a kind of writing much 
 esteemed among the Portuguese. They are not physically 
 equal to the European Portuguese, but possess considerablo 
 ability ; and it is said that half-castes, in the course of a 
 few generations, return to the black color of the maternal 
 ancestor. 
 
 The Eashinje, in whose country we now are, seem to 
 possess more of the low negro character and physiognomy 
 than either the Balonda or Basongo; their color is generally 
 dirty black, foreheads low and compressed, noses flat and 
 much expanded laterally, though this is partly owing to 
 the alas spreading over the cheeks, by the custom of insert- 
 ing bits of sticks or reeds in the septum ; their teeth are 
 deformed by being filed to points; their lips are large. 
 They make a nearer approach to a general negro appear- 
 ance than any tribes I met; but I did not notice this on 
 my way down. They cultivate pretty largely, and rely upon 
 their agricultural products for their supplies of salt, flesh, 
 tobacco, &c. from Bangalas. Their clothing consists of 
 pieces of skin hung loosely from the girdle in front and 
 behind They plait their hair fantastically. We saw some 
 women coming with their hair woven into the form of a 
 European hat, and it was only by a closer inspection that 
 its nature was detected. Others had it arranged in tufts, 
 with a threefold cord along the edge of each tuft; while 
 others, again, follow the ancien t Egyptian fashion, having 
 the whole mass of wool plaited into cords, all hanging 
 down as far as the shoulders. This mode, with the some- 
 what Egyptian cast of countenance in other parts of Londa, 
 
SANSAWX'S IDEA OF DIQMTT 288 
 
 remindod mo Btrongly of tho paintings of that nation in 
 the British Maseuiii. 
 
 We had now rain every day, and tho sky soldom pro- 
 gented that cloudless aspect and clear blue so common in 
 the dry lands of tho south. Tho heavens are often over- 
 east by large white motionless masses, which stand for 
 hours in tho same position; and the intervening spaces are 
 filled with a milk-and-water-looking haze. Notwithstand- 
 ing those" unfavorable circumstances, I obtained good OD- 
 servations for the longitude of this important point on both 
 aides of tho Quango, and found the river runnibg in 9° 5<y S. 
 lat., 18° 33' E. long. 
 
 On proceeding to our former station near Sansawe's 
 village, he ran to meet us with wonderful urbanity, asking 
 if wo had seen Moene Put, king of tho white men, (or Por- 
 tuguese,) and added, on parting, that he would come to 
 receive his dues in the evening. I replied that, as ho had 
 treated us so scurvily, even forbidding his people to sell us 
 any food, if he did not bring us a fowl and some eggs as 
 part of his duty as a chief, he should receive no present 
 from me. When he came, it was in the usual Londa way 
 of shomng the exalted position he occupies, mounted on 
 tho shoulders of his spokesman, as schoolboys sometimes 
 do in England, and as was represented to have been the 
 case in the southern islands when Captain Cook visited 
 them. My companions, amused at his idea of dignity, 
 greeted him with a hearty laugh. Ho visited the native 
 traders first, and then came to mo with two cocks aa a 
 present. I spoke to him about the impolicy of treatment 
 wo had received at his hands, and quoted tho example of 
 the Bangalas, who had been conquered by the Portuguese 
 for their extortionate demands of payment for firewood, 
 grass, water, &c., and concluded by denying his right to 
 any payment for simply passing through uncultivated land. 
 To all this he agreed ; and then I gave him, as a token of 
 friendship, a pannikin of coarse powder, two iron spoons, 
 and two yards of coarse printed calico He looked rathev 
 T 
 
2flO MOE£ TEVER. 
 
 saucily at these articles, for he had just received a barrel 
 containing eighteen pounds of powder, twenty-four yards 
 of calico, and two bottles of brandy, from Senhor Fascoal 
 the pombeiro. Other presents were added the next day, 
 but wo gave nothing more; and the pombeiros informed 
 mo that it was necessary to give largely, because they are 
 accompanied by slaves and carriers who are no great 
 friends to their masters; and, if they did not secure the 
 friendship of these petty chieft, many slaves and their loads 
 might be stolen while passing through the forests. It is 
 thus a sort'wf black-mail that these insignificant chiefs 
 levy; and the native traders, in paying, do so simply as a 
 bribe to keep them honest. This chief was a man of no 
 power, but in our former ignorance of this he plagued us a 
 whole day in passing. 
 
 Finding the progress of Senhor Pascoal and the other 
 pombeiros excessively slow, I resolved to forego his com- 
 pany to Cabango after I had delivered to him some letters 
 to be sent back to Cassange. I went forward with the 
 intention of finishing my writing and leaving a packet for 
 him at some village. We ascended the eastern acclivity 
 th:it bounds the Cassange valley, which has rather a 
 gradual ascent up from the Quango, and wo found that 
 the last ascent, though apparently not quite so high as 
 that at Tala Mungongo, is actually much higher. The top 
 IB about 5000 feet above the level of the sea, and the 
 bottom 3500 feet ; water boiling on the heights at 202°, the 
 thermometer in the air showing 96°, and at the bottom at 
 205°, the air being 75°. Wo had now gained the summit 
 of the western subtending ridge, and began to descend 
 toward the centre of the country, hoping soon to get out 
 of the Chiboque territory, which, when we ascended fi«m 
 the Cassange valley, we had entered ; but, on the 19th of 
 April, the intermittent, which had begun on the 16th of 
 March, was changed into an extremely severe attack of 
 rheumatic fever. This was brought on by being obliged 
 to sloop on an extensive plain covered with water. The 
 
A BLOW ON THE BEARD 291 
 
 lain poured down incessantly; but we formed our beds by 
 dragging up the earth into oblong mounds, somewhat like 
 graves in a country churehyard, and then placing grass 
 upon them. The rain continuing to deluge us, wo were 
 unable to leave for two days; but as soon as it became fair 
 we continued our march. The heavy dew upon the high 
 grass was so cold as to cause shivering, and I was forced 
 to lio by for eight days, tossing and groaning with violent 
 pain in the head. This was the most severe attack I had 
 endured. It made mo quite unfit to move, or oven know 
 what was pabsing outside my iittle tent. Senhor Paseoal, 
 who had been iletainod by the severe rain at a better spot, 
 at last came tip, and, knowing that leeches abounded in 
 the rivulets, procured a number, and applied some dozens 
 to the nape of the neck and the loins. This partially 
 relieved the pain. He was then obliged to move forward, 
 in order to purchase food for his large party. After many 
 days, I began to recover, and wished to move on, but my 
 men objected to thb attempt on account of my weakness. 
 When Senhor Paseoal had been some time at the village in 
 front, as he had received instructions from his employer, 
 Captain Neves, to aid mo as much as possible, and being 
 himself a kindly-disposed person, he sent back two mes- 
 sengers to invite mo to come on, if practicable. 
 
 It happened that the head-man of the village where 1 
 had lain twenty-two days, whil,e bargaining and quarrelling 
 in my camp for a piece of meat, liad been struck on the 
 ojouth by one of my men. My principal men paid five 
 pieces of cloth and a gun as an atonement ; but the more 
 they yielded the more exorbitant ho became, and he sent 
 word to all the surrounding villages to aid him in avenging 
 the affront of a blow on the board. As their courage 
 usually rises with success, I resolved to yield no more, and 
 departed In passing through a forest in the country 
 beyond, wo were startled by a body of men rushing after 
 OS. They began by knocking down the burdens of the 
 hindormost of my men, and several shots wore fired, e&ob 
 
292 SKIRMISH IN A FOKEST. 
 
 party spreading out on both sides of the path. I forta> 
 Datoly had a six-barrelled revolver, which my Mend 
 Captsin Henry Need, of ner majesty's brig " Linnet," had 
 considerately seiit to Golango Alto after my departure 
 from Loauda. Taking this in my hand, and forgetting 
 fovor, I staggered quickly along the path with two or thie^ 
 of my men, and fortunately encountered the chief. The 
 sight of the six barrels gaping into his stomach, with my 
 own ghastly visage looking daggers at his face, seemed to 
 produce an instant revolution in his martial feelings ; for 
 he cried out, "Oh, I have only come to speak to you, and 
 wish peace only." Masnauana had hold of him by the 
 hand, and found him shaking. "We examined his gun, and 
 found that it had been discharged. Both parties crovded 
 up to their chiefs. One of the opposite party coming too 
 near, one of mine drove him back with a battle-axe. The 
 enemy protested their amicable intentions, and my men 
 assorted the fact of having the goods knocked down aa 
 evidence of the contrary. "Without waiting long, I re- 
 quested all to sit down ; and Pitsane, placing his hand upon 
 the revolver, somewhat allayed their fears. I then said to 
 the chief, " If you have come with peaceable intentions, 
 we have no other : go away home to your village." He 
 replied, " I am afraid lest you shoot me in the back." 1 
 rejoined, "If I wanted to kill you, I could shoot you in 
 the face as well." Mosantu called out to mo, " That's 
 only a Makalaka trick : don't give him your back," But 
 I said, " Tell him to observe that I am not afraid of him," 
 and, turning, mounted my ox. There was not much dangOT 
 in the fire that was opened at first, there being so many 
 trees. The eiiomy probably expected that the sudden 
 attack would make us forsake our goods and aUow them 
 to plunder with case. The villagers wore no doubt 
 pleased with being allowed to retire unscathed, and we 
 wore also glad to got away without having shod a drop of 
 blood or having compromised ourselves for any future visit. 
 lly men wore delighted with their own bravery, and made 
 
BATK or TRAVia.. 299 
 
 the woods ring with telling each other Low " brilliant their 
 conduct before the enemy" would have been, had hosti- 
 lities not been brought to a sudden close. . 
 
 ^ do not mention this little skirmish as a very frightful 
 affair. The negro character in these parts, and in Angola. 
 Is essentially cowardly, except when influenced by success 
 A partial triumph over any body of men would induce the 
 whole country to rise in arms ; and this is the chief danger 
 to be feared. These petty chiefs have individually but 
 little power, and with my men, now armed with guns, 1 
 could have easily beaten them off singly; but, being of 
 the same family, they would readily unite in vast numbers 
 if incited by prospects of successful plunder. They are by 
 no means equal to the Capo Caffres in any respect what- 
 ever. 
 
 In the evening we came to Moena Kikanje, and found 
 him a sensible man. He is the last of the Ghiboque chiefs 
 in this direction, and is in alliance with Matiamvo, whose 
 territory commences a short distance beyond. His village 
 is placed on the east bank of the Quilo, which is here 
 twenty yards wide and breast deep. 
 
 The country was generally covered with forest, and we 
 slept every night at some village. I was so weak, and had 
 become so deaf from the effects of the fever, that I was 
 glad to avail myself of the company of Senhor Pascoal and 
 the other native traders. Our rate of travelling was only 
 two geographical miles per hour, and the average number of 
 hours three and a half per day, or seven miles. Two-thirds 
 of tha month was spent in stoppages, there being only ten 
 travelling-days in each month. The stoppages wore caused 
 ly sickness, and- the necessity of remaining in diflferent 
 parts to purchase food; and also because when one carrier 
 was sick the rest refused to carry his load. 
 
 We crossed the Loange, a deep but narrow stream, by a 
 bridge. It becomes much larger, and contains hippopo- 
 tami, lower down It is the boundary of Londa on the west. 
 W« slept also on the banks of the Pezo, now flooded, and* 
 
 26» 
 
294 FEEDERS OF THE CONGO. 
 
 could not but admire their capabilities for easy irrigation 
 On reaching the river Chikapa, (lat. 10° 10' S., long. 19° 42 
 E.,) the 25th of March, we found it fiftj or sixty yards wide, 
 and flowing E.N.E. into the Kasai. The adjacent country is 
 of the same level nature as that part of Londa formerly 
 described; but, having come farther to the eastward thai 
 our previous course, we found that all the rivers had worn 
 for themselves much deeper valleys than at the points we had 
 formerly crossed them. 
 
 Surrounded on all sides by large gloomy forests, the 
 people of these ^arts have a much more indistinct idea of 
 the geography of their country than those who live in hilly 
 regions. It was only after long and patient inquiry that I 
 became fully persuaded that the Quito runs into the Chi- 
 kapa. As we now crossed them both considerably farther 
 down, and were greatly to the eastward of our first route, 
 there can be no doubt that these rivers take the same 
 course as the others, into the Kasai, and that I had been 
 led into a mistake in saying that any of them flowed to 
 the westward. Indeed, it was only at this time that I 
 began to perceive that all the western feeders of the Kasai, 
 except the Quango, flow first from the western side toward 
 the centre of the country, then gradually turn, with the 
 Kasai itself, to the north, and, after the confluence of the 
 ICasai Avith the Quango, an immense body of water, col- 
 lected from all these branches, finds its way out of the 
 country by means of the river Congo or Zaire, on the west 
 coast. 
 
 The people living along the path we are now following 
 were quite accustomed to the visits of native traders, and 
 did not feel in any way bound to make presents of food 
 except for the purpose of cheating : thus, a man gave me 
 a fowl and some meal, and after a short time returned. 
 I offered him a handsome present of beads; but these he 
 declined, and demanded a cloth instead, which was far 
 more than the value of his gift. They did the same with 
 ay men, until we had to refuse presents altogether. Others 
 
OBOHSINU TIIE LOAJIMA. 
 
 29j) 
 
 made high demands bocauso 1 slept in a " house of cloth" 
 and must he rich. They seemed to thinlt that they had & 
 perfect right to payment for simply passing through tho 
 country. 
 
 Beyond the Chikapa wo crossed the Kamaue, a smali^ 
 deep stream proceeding from the S.S-W. and flowing intc 
 the Chikapa. 
 
 On the 30th of April we reached the Loajima, where we 
 had to form a bridge to effect our passage. This was not 
 BO difScult an operation as some might imag ^ne ; for a truo 
 
 * LONDA LADY'S MODE OP WEARING HER HAIR. 
 
 wnM growing in a horizontal position across part of the 
 Btpoam, and, there being no want of tho tough climbing 
 plants which admit of being knitted like ropes, Senhor P. 
 BOon constructed a bridge. Tho Loajima was hero about 
 twenty-five yards wide, but very mach deeper than wher« 
 £ had crossed before on the shoulders of Mashauana. The 
 
C96 
 
 MODES OF DRESSING THE HAIB. 
 
 last rain of this season had fallen on the 28tb, and had 
 ■addenly been followed by a great decrease of the tempera- 
 tare. The people in these parts seemed more slender in 
 form, and their color a lighter olive, than any wo had 
 hitherto met. The mode of dressing t^"^ great masses of 
 woolly hair which lay upon their shou.Uors, together with 
 their general features, again reminded me of the ancient 
 Egyptians. Several were seen with the upward inciinatioD 
 of the outer angles of the eye ; but this was not general 
 
 LADY'S HEAD-DRESS OF WOVEN HAIR. 
 
 A few of the ladies adopt a curious custom of attaching 
 tho hair to a hoop which encircles the head, giving it some- 
 what the appearance of the glory round the head of the 
 Virgin, as shown on p. 295. Some have a small hoop behind 
 (hat represented in tho wood-cut. Others wear an orna- 
 mont of woven hair and hide adorned with beads. The 
 hair of the tails of buffaloes, which are to bte found fkrtiier 
 
HEAD-DRESSES. 
 
 297 
 
 oast, IB sometimes added; while others weave their own 
 hair on pieces of hide into the form of buffalo-horns, oi 
 make a single horn in front. Many tattoo their bodies by 
 inserting some black substance beneath the skin, which 
 leaves an elevated cicatrix about half an inch long : these 
 are made in the form of stars and other figures of no par- 
 ticular beauty. 
 
 UUtY'S HEAD-DRESS IN SHAPE OF BUFFALO-HORIWi 
 
2»8 OABANOO. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXin. 
 
 DB. trVINaSTONE VISITS THE COUNTRY OP THE BALONDA. 
 
 We made a little detour to the southward, in order to 
 get provisions in a cheaper market. This led us alongthe 
 rivulet called Tamba, where we found the people, who had 
 not been visited so frequently by the slave-traders as the 
 rest, rather timid and very civil. 
 
 We reached the river Moamba (lat. 9° 38' S., long. 20" 
 13' 34" B.) on the 7th May. This is a stream of thirty 
 yards wide, and, like the Quilo, Loange, Chikapa, and 
 Loajima, contains both alligators and hippopotami. We 
 crossed it by means of canoes. 
 
 We crossed two small streams, the Kanesi and Pombeji, 
 before reaching Cabango, a village situated on the banks 
 of the Chihombo. The country was becoming more 
 densely peopled as wo proceeded, but it bears no popula- 
 tion compared to what it might easily sustain. 
 
 Cabango (lat. 9° 31' S., long. 20° 31' or 32' B.) is the 
 dwelling-place of Muanzanza, one of Matiamvo's subor- 
 dinate chiefs. His village consists of about two hundred 
 huts and ten or twelve square houses, constructed of 
 poles with grass interwoven. The latter are occupied 
 by half-caste Portuguese from Ambaca, agents for the 
 Cassange traders. The cold in the mornings was now 
 severe to the feelings, the thermometer ranging from 58" 
 to 60°, though, when protected, sometimes standing as 
 high as 64° at six a.m. When the sun is well up, the 
 thermometer in the shade rises to 80°, and in the even 
 ings it is about 78°. 
 
 Having met with an accident to one of my eyes by a 
 blow from a branch in passing through a forest, I remained 
 some days here, endeavoring, though with much pain, to 
 dr&ir a sketch of the country thus far, to be sent bat^ to 
 
DEPABTCBE fROM OABANOO. 29S 
 
 Mr. Gabriel at Loanda. I was always anxious to transmit 
 an account of my discoveries on every possible occasion, 
 lest, any thing happening in the country to which I was 
 going, they should be entirely lost. I also fondly expected 
 a packet of letters and papers which my good angel a 
 Loanda would bo sure to send if thoy came to hand ; but 1 
 afterward found that, though he had oflfercd a largo sum 
 to any one who would return with an assurance of having 
 delivered the last packet ho sent, no one followed mo with 
 it to Cabango. The unwearied attentions of this good 
 Englishman, from his first welcome to me, when, a ^eary 
 dejected, and worn-down stranger, I arrived at his resi- 
 dence, and his whole subsequent conduct, will be held in 
 lively remembrance by me to my dying day. 
 
 As wo thought it best to strike away to the S.E. from 
 Cabango to our old friend Katema, I asked a guide from 
 Muanzanza. He agreed to furnish one, and also accepted 
 a smaller present from me than usual, when it was re 
 presented to him by Pascoal and Paria that I was not a 
 trader. 
 
 Wo wore forced to prepay our guide and his father too ; 
 and he went but one day, although he promised to go with 
 us to Katema. 
 
 The reason why we needed a guide at all was to secure 
 tho convenience of a path, which, though generally no 
 better than a sheep-walk, is much easier than going 
 straight in one direction through tangled forests and 
 tropical vegetation. We know the general direction we 
 ought to follow, and also if any deviation occurred from 
 our proper route ; but, to avoid impassable forests and 
 antroadable bogs, and to get to the proper fords of th« 
 rivers, we always tried to procure a guide, and he alwayt 
 followed tho common path from one village to another 
 when that lay in the direction we were going. 
 
 After leaving Cabango, on tho 21st, we crossed sevewl 
 little streams running into tho Chihombo on our left. 
 
 On the Z8th we reached the village of the chief Bango^ 
 
aOO INTEEVIEW WITH KAWAWA. 
 
 (lat. 12° 22' 53" S., long. 20° 58' E.,) who brought us a 
 handsome present of meal and the meat of.^^n entire 
 pallah. We here slaughtered the last of the cows pre- 
 sented to us by Mr. Schut, which I had kept milked unlU 
 it gave only a teaspoonful at a time. My men enjoyed a 
 nearty laugh when they found that I had given ap all hope 
 of more, for they had been talking among themselves about 
 my perseverance. - ■■■' 
 
 May 30. — ^We left Bango, and proceeded to the river 
 Loembwe, which flows to the N.N.E. and abounds in 
 hippopotami. It is about sixty yards wide and four feet 
 deep, but usually contains much less water than this, for 
 there are fishing-weirs placed right across it. Like all the 
 African rivers in this quarter, it has morasses on each 
 bank ; yet the valley in which it winds, when seen &om 
 the high lands above, is extremely beautiful. 
 
 Having passed the Loembwe, we were in a more open 
 country, with every few hours a small valley, through 
 which ran a little rill in the middle of a bog. These wore 
 always difiScult to pass, and, being numerous, kept the 
 lower part of the person constantly wet. 
 
 On the evening of the 2d of June we reached the village 
 of Kawawa, — ^rather an important personage in these parts, 
 '/his village consists of forty or fifty huts, and is surrounded 
 by forest. Drums were beating over the body of a man 
 who had died the preceding day, and some women were 
 making a clamorous wail at the door of his hut, and 
 addressing the deceased as if alive. 
 
 In the morning we had agreeable intercourse with Ka- 
 wawa : he visited us, and we sat and talked nearly the 
 whole day with him and his people. When we visited 
 him in return, we found him in his large court-house, 
 which, though of a bee-hive shape, was remarkably weD 
 built. As I had shown him a number of curiosities, he 
 now produced a jug, of English ware, shaped like an old 
 man holding a can of beer in his hand, as the greatest 
 oariosity he had to exhibit 
 
TSrSVTE DEMANDED. 301 
 
 yfe exhibitoa ibo pictures of the magie lantern ic iho 
 evening, and s!l were delighted except Kawawa himself 
 He showed symptomb of dread, and sevci J timet started 
 up as if to ran away, but was prevented by the crowd 
 behind. Some of the more intelligent undoroi^ •od the ex- 
 planations well, and expatiated eloquently on them to the 
 moi-o obtuse. Nothing could oxcoed the civilities which 
 had passed between us during this day ; but Kawawa had 
 heard that the Chiboquo had forced us to pay an ox, and 
 now thought he might do the same. When, therefore, I 
 sent next morning to let nim know that wo wore ready to 
 start, he /epiied, m his figurative way, "If an ox come in 
 the way of a man, ought ho not to oat it ? I had given 
 one to the Chiboquo, and must give him the same, together 
 with a gun, gunpowder, and a black robe, like that ho had 
 seen spread out to dry the day before ; that, if I refused an 
 ox, I must give one of my men, and a book by which he 
 might SCO the state of Matiamvo's heart toward him, and 
 which would forewarn him should Matiamvo over resolve 
 to cut oif his head." Kawawa came in the coolest manner 
 possible to our encampment after sending this message, 
 and told mo ho had seen all our goods and must have all 
 he asked, as he had command of the Kasai in our front, 
 and would prevent us from passing it unless we paid this 
 tribute. I replied that the goods wore my property and 
 not his ; that I would never have it said that a white man 
 had paid tribute to a black, and that I should cross tho 
 Kasai in spite of him. Ho ordered his people to arm them- 
 selves, and when some of my men saw them rushing for 
 their bows, arrows, and spears, they became somewhat 
 panic-stricken. I ordered them to move away, and not t» 
 fire unless Kawawa's people struck tho first blow. I tool 
 the lead, and expected them all to follow, as they usually 
 had done ; but many of my men remained behind. When 
 1 know this, I jumped off the ox and made a rush to them 
 w^ith the revolver in my hand. Kawawa ran away among 
 
 bis people, and they turned their backs too. I shouled to 
 
 28 
 
302 0NPLEA8ANT PAHTIKO. 
 
 my men to tako up their luggage and marcli : some did m 
 with alacrity, feeling that thoy had disobeyed orders by 
 remaining ; but one of them refused, and was preparing tc 
 fire at Kawawa, until I gave him a punch on the head 
 with the pistol and made him go too. I felt here, as else- 
 where, that subordination must be maintained at all risks. 
 We all moved into the forest, the people of Kawawa stand- 
 ing about a hundred yards off, gazing, but not firing a shot 
 or an arrow. It is extremely unpleasant to part with these 
 chieftains thus, after spending a day or two in the most 
 amicable intercourse, and in a part where the people are 
 generally civil. This Kawawa, however, is not a good 
 specimen of the Balonda chiefs, and is rather notorious in 
 the neighborhood for his folly. We wore told that he has 
 good reason to believe that Matiamvo will some day cut 
 off his head for his disregard of the rights of strangers. 
 
 Kawawa was not to be balked of his supposed rights by 
 the unceremonious way in which wo had left him; for, 
 when wo had reached the ford of the Kasai, about ton 
 miles distant, we found that ho had sent four of his men 
 with orders to the ferrymen to refuse us passage. Wo 
 wore here duly informed that we must deliver up aU the 
 articles mentioned, and or,e of our men besides. This de- 
 mand for one of our number always nettled every heart 
 The canoes were taken away before our eyes, and wo were 
 supposed to be quite helpless without them, at a river a 
 good hundred yards broad, and very deep. Pitsano stood 
 on the bank, gazing with apparent indifference on the 
 stream, and made an accurate observation of where the 
 canoes were hidden among the reeds. The ferrymen 
 casually asked one of my Batoka if thoy had rivers in his 
 country, and ho answered, with truth, "No; we have 
 none." Kawawa's people then felt sure we could not cross. 
 I thought of swimming when thoy wore gone ; but, after 
 it was dark, by the unasked, loan of one of the hidden 
 canoes, we soon were snug in our bivouac on tho scuthem 
 bank of tho Kasai. 1 lofi some beads us payment for iomit 
 
UEVEX. PLAINS. 803 
 
 meal which had boon presonted by the ferrymon ; and, the 
 canoo having boon loft on thoir own eido of the river, 
 Pitsano and his companions laughed uproariously at the 
 disgust our enemies would feel, and their perplexity as 
 to who had been our paddler across. They wore quite 
 sure that Kawawa would imagine that we had been ferried 
 over by his own people and would be divining to find out 
 who had done the deed. "When ready to depart in the 
 morning, Kiiwawa's people appeared on the opposite 
 heights, and could scarcely believe their eyes when thoy 
 saw us prepared to start away to the south. At last one 
 of them called out, " Ah ! ye are bad ;" to which Pitsano 
 and his companions retorted, "Ah ! ye are good, and we 
 thank you for the loan of your canoe." Wo were careful 
 to explain the whole of the circumstances to Katema and 
 the other chiefs, and they all agreed that we were per- 
 fectly justifiable under the circumstances, and that Ma- 
 tiamvo would approve our conduct. When any thing that 
 might bear an unfavorable construction happens among 
 themselves, they send explanations to each other. The 
 mere fact of doing so prevents them from losing thwii 
 character, for there is public opinion even among them. 
 
 CHAPTBK XXIV. 
 
 DB. LIVINGSTONE RETURNS TO THE COUNTRY OF TUB 
 MAKOLOLO. 
 
 Atter leaving the Kasai, we entered upon the ortcnsivp 
 level plains which we had formerly found in a flooded con- 
 dition. The water on them was not yet dried up, as it 
 Btill remained in certain hollow spots. Vultures wore seen 
 floating in the air, showing that carrion was to bo found • 
 and, indeed, we saw several of the large game, but »c 
 exceedingly wild as to be unapproachable. 
 
801 IJLKE DILOLa 
 
 Daring oar second day on this extonsivo plain 1 safferad 
 froiu *ny twenty-seventh attack of fever, at a part where 
 no Bur&ce-vTftter was to be loand. "We never thought it 
 necessary to carrj water with us in this region ; and now, 
 when I was quite mable tc move on, my men soon found 
 water to alJay my buraing thirst ny digging with sticks a 
 few feet beneath the surface. We had thus an opportunity 
 of observing the state of these remarkable plains at differ- 
 ent seasons of the year. Next day we pursued our way, 
 and on the 8th of June we forded the Lotembwa to the 
 N.W. of Dilolo, and regained our former path. 
 
 After crossing the Northern Lotembwa, we met a party 
 of the people of Kangenke, who had treated us kindly on 
 our way to the north, and sent him a robe of striped calico, 
 with an explanation of the reason for not returning through 
 liis village. We then went on to the Ijake Dilolo. It is a 
 fine sheet of water, six or eight miles long and one or two 
 broad, and somewhat of a triangular shape. A branch 
 proceeds from one of the angles and flows into the Southern 
 Lotembwa. 
 
 We found Moene Dilolo (Lord of the Lake) a fat, jolly 
 follow, who lamented that when they had no strangers 
 they had plenty of beer, and always none when they came. 
 He gave us a handsome present of meal and putrid buffalo's 
 flesh. Meat cannot be too far gone for them, as it is used 
 only in small quantities, as a sauce to their tasteless manioc 
 
 June 14. — Wo reached the collection of straggling vil- 
 lages over which Katema rules, and were thankful to see 
 old familiar faces again. Shakatwala performed the part 
 of a chief by bringing forth abundant supplies of food in 
 nis master's name. Ho informed us that Katema, too, was 
 out hunting skins for Matiamvo. 
 
 On the 15th Katema came homo from his hunting, having 
 heard of our arrival. Ho desired mo to rest myself and 
 eat abundantly, for, being a great man, I must feel tired, 
 and took good care to give the moans of doing so. All the 
 peopio in these parts are exceedingly kind and liberal with 
 
WSIiOOME FS.OM 8HINTE. 8Ud 
 
 thoiT fbod, and Katoma was not behindhand. TVhon ho 
 Tiflitod our encampment, I presented him with a cloak of 
 rod baize, ornamented with gold tinsel, which cost thirty 
 shillings, according to the promise I had made in going to 
 Londa; also a cotton robe, both large and small beads, an 
 iron spoon, and a tin pannikin containing a quarter of a 
 pound of powder. Ho seemed greatly pleased with the 
 liberality shown, and assured me that the way was mine, 
 and that no one should molest mo in it if he could help it. 
 
 Leaving Katoma's town on the 19th, and proceeding 
 four miles to the eastward, wo forded the southern branch 
 of Lake Dilolo. "Wo found it a mile and a quarter broad; 
 Bad, as it flows into the Lotembwa, the lake would seem 
 to be a drain of the surrounding flats, and to partake of 
 tho character of a fountain. The ford was waist deep, and 
 very difficult, from the masses of arum and rushes through 
 which we waded. Going to the eastward about three 
 miles, wo came to tho Southern Lotembwa itself, running 
 in a Talley two miles broad. It is here eighty or ninety 
 yards wide, and contains numerous islands covered with 
 dense sylvan vegetation. 
 
 Wo traversed the extended plain on the north bank of 
 the I'«eba, and crossed this river a little farther on at Kan- 
 yonk'x's village, which is about twenty miles west of tho 
 Peri Hills, our former ford. The first stage beyond the 
 Leebr. was at the rivulet Loamba, by the village of Cho- 
 bendf, nephew of Shinto; and next day wo met Chebende 
 himfjelf returning from the funeral of Samoana, his father. 
 He was thin and haggard-looking compared to what ho 
 hafl been before, — the probable effect of the orgies in which 
 he had been engaged. 
 
 Wo reached our friend Shinte, and received a hearty 
 welcome from this friendly old man, and abundant pro- 
 visions of tho best he had. On hearing a report of the 
 journey given by my companions, and receiving a picco 
 of cotton cloth about two yards square, ho said, " These 
 Mambari cheat us by bringing little pieco3 only; but tho 
 
 26* 
 
606 VIBIT TO NTAMOANA. 
 
 next timo you pass I shall send men with yon to trade foi 
 me in Loanda." When I explained the use made of th« 
 slaves he sold, and that he was just destroying his own 
 tribe by selling his people, and enlarging that of the Mam> 
 bari for the sake of these small pieces of cloth, it seemed tc 
 him quite a new idea. 
 
 We parted on the best possible terms with our friend 
 Bhinte, and proceeded by our former path to the village of 
 his sister Nyamoana, who is now a widow. She received ua 
 with much apparent feeling, and said, "We had removed 
 from our former abode to the place whore you found us, 
 and had no idea then that it was the spot where my hus- 
 band was to die." She had come to the river Lofuje, as 
 they never remain in a place whore death has once visited 
 them. We received the loan of five small canoes from heri 
 and also one of those we had left here before, to proceed 
 down the Leeba. 
 
 Having despatched a message to our old friend Manenko, 
 we waited a day opposite her village, which was about 
 fifteen miles from the river. Her husband was instantly 
 despatched to meet us with liberal presents of food, she 
 being unable to travel in consequence of a bum on the 
 foot. Sambanza gave us a detailed account of the political 
 affairs of the country, and of Kolimbota's evil doings. 
 
 A short distance below the confluence of the Leeba and 
 Leeambye we met a number of hunters belonging to the 
 tribe called Mambowe, who live under Masiko. They had 
 dried flesh of hippopotami, buffaloes, and alligators. Thii 
 party had been sent by Masiko to the Makololo for aid to 
 repel their enemy, but, afraid to go thither, had spent the 
 time in hunting. They have a dread of the Makololo, and 
 hence the joy they expressed when peace was proclaimed.* 
 
 • The Masiko were terrible warriors, but the atrooities committed by 
 them in war will hardly bear comparison with those committed cTen in 
 Hme of peace hj the Zulus (Zooloos) under Chaka. Here is a speoimea 
 glTen by Captain Harris: — " Cmnante, the queen-mother, died, and 
 mtrj ia1t|}Mt in the realm was expeoted t« proceed, Mcording to ect» 
 
OaCELTT or THB ZULUS. 807 
 
 The Mambowe hunters were much alarmed until my name 
 was mentioned. They then joined our party, and on the 
 following day discovered a hippopotamus dead, Avbich they 
 had prenously wounded. This was the first feast of flesh 
 my men had enjoyed, for, though the game was wonder- 
 fully abundant, I had quite got out of the way of shootingi 
 arid missed perpetually. Once 1 went with the detorminap 
 tion of getting so close that I should not miss a zebra. 
 Wc wont along one of the branches that stretch out from the 
 river in a small canoe, and two men, c ooping down as low 
 as they could, paddled it slowly along to an open space near 
 to a herd of zebras and pokus. Peering over the edge of 
 the canoe, the open space seemed like a patch of wet ground, 
 such as is often seen on the banks of a river, made smooth 
 as the resting-place of alligators. When we came within 
 a few yards of it, we found by the precipitate plunging of 
 the reptile that this was a large alligator itself. Although 
 I had been most careful to approach near enough, I unfor^ 
 tunatejy only broke the hind-leg of a zebra. My two men 
 pursued it, but the loss of a hind-leg does not prevent this 
 animal from a gallop. As I walked slowly after the men 
 on an extensive plain covered with a great crop of grass, 
 
 bliahed custom, to the king's residence, there to mourn for the illustrioua 
 deceased. Umaante had been repudiated by Essenzinconysrna, and had 
 afterward been guiltj of signal infidelity to the nation by cohabiting with 
 B commoner of her father's tribe. Whether in consequence of this lapse, 
 or from some other circumstance, the usual etiquette was somewhat laxl^ 
 observed, and there ensued an appalling tragedy, which had never been 
 exceeded, either in brutality or foulness, by any of the black and inhu- 
 man exploits detailed in the long and bloody catalogue of Chaka'a crimes. 
 Upoi the grounds that 'some of the subjects must have been accessary 
 by witchcraft to the death of the queen-mother, and did not therefore 
 attend to mourn,' several kraals and villages were fired; men, women, 
 and children, having first been cruelly tortured, were roasted alive in the 
 flames by the ferocious agents of a still more fiendish master; this act 
 of unprecedented barbarity being followed up by a general massacre 
 throughout the realm, — the tide of blood flowing for a whole fortnight 
 and reeking of cruelties too revolting to narrate." — Ed. 
 
308 onAKQB or a btti'I'au). 
 
 which wot laxd by its own weight, I obsorvod that a Boh- 
 tary buflfalj, disturbed by others of- my own party, wa» 
 coming to mo at a gallop. I glanced around, but the only 
 tree on the plain was a hundred yards off, and thoro wa« 
 no escape elsewhere. I therefore cocked my rifle, with 
 the intention of giving him a steady shot in the forehead 
 whon ho should come within three or four yards of mo. The 
 thought flashed across my mind, " WTiat if your gun missel 
 fire ?" I placed it to my shoulder as he came on at full 
 speed, and that is tremendous, though generally ho is a 
 lumbering-looking animal in his paces. A small bush and 
 bunch of grass fifteen yards off made him swerve a littlo, 
 and exposed his shoulder. I just heard the ball crack 
 Uiore as I fell flat on my face. The pain must have made 
 ftim renounce his purpose, for he bounded close past me on 
 io the water, whore ho was found dead. In expressing my 
 thankfulness to God among my men, they were much 
 offended with themselves for not being present to shield 
 mo from this danger. The tree near mo was a camel-thom, 
 and reminded mo that we had come back to the land of 
 thorns again, for tho country we had left is one of ever- 
 greens. 
 
 July 27. — ^We reached the town of Libonta, and wora 
 received with demonstrations of joy such as I had novor 
 witnessed before. The women came forth to meet r>B, 
 making their curious dancing gestures and loud lulliloos. 
 Some carried a mat and stick, in imitation of a spear and 
 ihield. Others rushed forward and kissed the hands and 
 cheeks of the different i^crsons of their acquaintance among 
 ns, raising such a dust that it was quite a relief to get to 
 the men assembled and sitting with proper African decorum 
 Ln the kotla. Wo were looked upon as men risen from tho 
 dead, for the most skilful of their diviners had pronounced 
 as to have perisljcd long ago. After many expressions of 
 joy at mecliTig, 1 arose, and, thanking them, explained the 
 .auscs of our long delay, but loft the report to bo made by 
 their owi Bour.trymivn Formerly 1 bad been tho chief 
 
RECEPTION AT LIBONTA. 809 
 
 speaker, now I would leave the task of speaking to thorn. 
 Pitsane then delivered a speech of upward of an hour in 
 length, giving a highly-flattering picture of the whole jouiv 
 ney, of the kindness of the white men in general, and of 
 Mr. Gabriel in particular. He concluded by saying that I 
 bad done more for thorn than they oxpoctod ; that I had not 
 only opened up a path for them to the other white men, 
 but conciliated all the chiefs along the route. The oldest 
 man present rose and answered this speech, and, among 
 other things, alluded to the disgust I felt at the Makololo 
 for engaging in marauding-expeditions against Lochulatobe 
 and Sebolamakwaia, of which wo had heard from the first 
 persons we met, and which my companions most energeti- 
 cally denounced as " mashue hela," entirely bad. He en- 
 treated me not to lose heart, but to reprove Sekeletu as my 
 child. Another old man followed with the same entreaties. 
 The following day we observed as our thanksgiving to 
 God for his goodness in bringing us all back in safety to 
 our firiends. My men decked themselves out in their best, 
 wd I found that, although their goods wore finished, they 
 had managed to save suits of European clothing, which, 
 being white, with their red caps, gave them rather a dash- 
 ing appearance. They tried to walk like the soldiers they 
 had seen in Loanda, and called themselves my "braves," 
 (batlabani.) During the service they all sat with their 
 guns over their shoulders, and excited the unboimded admi- 
 ration of the women and children. I addressed them all 
 on tho goodness of God m preserving us from all the 
 dangers of strange tribes and disease. Wo had a similar 
 service in tho afternoon. The men gave us two fine oxen 
 for slaughter, and tho women supplied us abundantly with 
 milk, moal, and butter. It was all quite gratuitous, and I fell 
 ashamed that I could make no return. My men explained 
 the total expenditure of our means, and the Libontose 
 answered, gracefViIIy, "It does not matter : you have opened 
 a path for an, and wo shall have sleep." Strangers came 
 
310 KIKDITESS or THE PXOFU. 
 
 Socking from a distance, and seldom empty-handed. Theii 
 prosonls I distributed among my men. 
 
 Oar progress down the Earotse valley was just like this. 
 Every village gave us an ox, and sometimes two. Tho 
 pooplo wore wonderfully kind. I felt, and still feel, mort 
 deeply, gratoflil, and tried to benefit them in the only way 
 I could, by imparting the knowledge of that Savior who 
 can comfort and supply them in the time of need; and my 
 prayer is that ho may send his good Spirit to instruct them 
 and lead them into his kingdom. Even now I earnestly 
 long to return and make some recompense to them for 
 their kindness. In passing them on our way to tho north, 
 their liberality might have boon supposed to be influenced 
 by the hope of repayment on our return, for the white 
 man's land is imagined to be the source of every ornament 
 they prize most. But, though wo sot out from Loanda 
 with a considerable quantity of goods, hoping both to pay 
 our way through tho stingy Chiboque and to make presents 
 to the kind Balouda and still more generous Makololo, tho 
 many delays caused by sickness made ns expend all my 
 stock, and all the goods my men procured by their own 
 labor at Loanda, and we returned to the Makololo as poor 
 aa when we sot out. Yet no distrust was shown, and my 
 pevorty did not lessen my influence. They saw that I had 
 boon exerting myself fbr their benefit alono, and even my 
 men remarked, " Though we return as poor as wo went, 
 we have not gone in vain." They began immediately to 
 coUeot tasks of hippopotami and other ivory for a second 
 yap 'Bey 
 
ooLONT or BnUM 31 L 
 
 CHAPTEE XXV. 
 
 OK UVINaSTONB FOSFARSS FOR HIS JOURNEY TO THI CAST 
 
 COAST. 
 
 On the Slst of July wo parted with our kind Libonts 
 friends. Wo planted some of our palm-tree seeds in differ- 
 ent villages of this valley. They began to sprout oven 
 while we wore there ; but, unfortunately, they were always 
 destroyed by the mice which swarm in every hut. 
 
 At Chitlane's village we collected the young of a colony 
 of the linkololo {Anastomus lamalligerus,) a black, long- 
 legged bird, somewhat larger than a crow, which lives on 
 shell-fish (Ampullaria) and breeds in society at certain 
 localities among the reeds. These places are well known, 
 as they continue there from year to year, and belong to the' 
 chiefs, who at particular times of the year gather most 
 of the young. The produce of this " harvest," as they 
 call it, which was presented to me, was a hundred and 
 seventy-five unfledged birds. They had been rather late 
 in collecting them, in cojisequenco of waiting for the 
 arrival of Mpololo, who acts the part of chief, but gave 
 them to me, knowing that this would be pleasing to him, 
 otherwise this colony would have yielded double the 
 amount. The old ones appear along the Leeambyo in vast 
 flocks, and look lean and scraggy. The young are very 
 fat, and, when roasted, are esteemed one of the dainties of 
 the Barotse valley. In presents of this kind, as well as of 
 oxen, it is a sort of feast of joy, the person to whom they 
 are presented having the honor of distributing the mate- 
 rials of the feast. "VVe generally slaughtered every ox at 
 the village where it was presented, and then our friends 
 and we rejoiced together. 
 
 The village ol Chitlane is situated, like all others in the 
 Barotse valley, on an eminence, over which floods do not 
 
i)l2 OHITLA.NK 8 TILLAQE. 
 
 rise; but this last year the water approached nearer to an 
 entire submergence of the whole valley than has been 
 known in the memory of man. Great numbers of people 
 were now suffering from sickness, which always prevails 
 when the waters are drying up, and I found much demand 
 for the medicines I had brought from Loanda. The great 
 variation of the temperature each day must have a trying 
 effect upon the health. At this village there is a real Indian 
 banian-tree, which has spread itself over a considerable 
 space by moans of roots from its branches; it has been 
 termed, in consequence, "the tree with legs," (more oa 
 maotu.) It is curious that trees of this family are looked 
 upon with veneration, and all the way from the Barotso to 
 Loanda are thought to be preservatives from evil. 
 
 On reaching Nalielo on the 1st of August we found 
 Mpololo in groat afSiction on account of the death of hii 
 daughter and her child. She had been lately confined; 
 and her father naturally remembered her when an ox waa 
 slaughtered, or when the tribute of other food, which he 
 receives in lieu of Sekeleta, came in his way, and sent firo- 
 quent presents to her. This moved the envy of one of 
 the Makololo who hated Mpololo, and, wishing to vex him, 
 he entered the daughter's hut by night, and strangled both 
 her and her child. Ho then tried to make fire in the hut 
 and bum it, so that the murder might not be known ; bat 
 tho squeaking noise of rubbing the sticks awakened a Bor- 
 vant, and the murderer was dotoctod. Both ho and his 
 wife were thrown into the river, — ^the latter having "known 
 of her husband's intentions, and not revealing thom." 
 6he declared she had dissuaded him from tho crime, and, 
 had any one interposed a word, she might have becD 
 spared. 
 
 Mpololo exerted himself in every way to supply as with 
 other canoes, and we left Shinto's with him. Tho Mam- 
 bowo were well received, and departed with friendly mos- 
 sagofl to their chief Masiko. My men were oxccodingly 
 delig^hted with the cordial reception wo met with eveiy 
 
BCESBAQE fROH MASIK.O. 313 
 
 Where; but a source of annoyance was founJ wliore It was 
 not oxpoctod. Many of their wives had married other 
 men during our two years' absence. Mashauana's wife, 
 who had bomo him two children, was among tlio number. 
 Ho wished to appear not to feel it much, saying, "Why, 
 wives are as plentiful as grass, and I can get a aether : she 
 may go;" but he would add, "If I had that fellow, i 
 would open his ears for him." As most of them had mo/e 
 wives than one, I tried to console them by saying that 
 they had still more than I had, and that they had enough 
 yet; but they felt the reflection to be galling that, while 
 they were toiling, another had been devouring their com. 
 Some of their wives came with very young infants in theii 
 arms. This excited no discontent ; and for some I had to 
 speak to the chief to order the men, who had married the 
 only wives some of my companions ever had, to restore 
 them. 
 
 Sunday, August 5. — ^A large audience listened most atten- 
 tively to my morning address. Surely some will remember 
 the ideas conveyed, and pray to our merciful Father, who 
 would never have thought of him but for this visit. The 
 invariably kind and respectful treatment I have received 
 from these and many other heathen tribes in this central 
 country, together with the attentive observations of manj 
 years, have led me to the belief that, if one exerts him' 
 self for their good, he will never be ill treated. There 
 may be opposition to his doctrine, but none to the man 
 himself 
 
 While still at Naliele, a party which had been sent aftei 
 me by Masiko arrived. He was much disappointed becaxLss 
 I had not visited him. They brought an elephant's tusk, 
 two calabashes of honey, two baskets of maize, and one 
 of groundnuts, as a present. Masiko wished to say that 
 ho had followed the injunction which I had given as the 
 will of God, and lived in peace until his brother Limboa 
 eame, captured his women as they went to their gardens, 
 uid then appeared before his stockade. Masiko offered to 
 
 27 
 
3l4 FREEDOM OF SP^fBOH. 
 
 wad his men out; but they objected, saying, "Let ns 
 Bervnnts De Eillea: you must not bo slain." Those who 
 said this were young Barotso who had been drilled to 
 fighting by Scbituano, and usjcd shields of ox-hide. They 
 beat off the party of Limboa, ten being wounded and ten 
 slain in the engagement. Limboa subsequently sent three 
 nlavos as a self-imposed fine to Masiko for attacking him. 
 [ succeeded in getting the Makololo to treat the messengers 
 of Masiko well, though, as they regarded them as rebels, 
 it was somewhat against the grain at first to speak civilly 
 to them. 
 
 Mpololo, attempting to justify an opposite line of con- 
 duct, told me how they had fled from Sebituane, even 
 though ho had given them numbers of cattle after their 
 Bubjoction by his arms, and was rather surprised to find that 
 I was disposed to think more highly of them for having 
 asserted their independence, even at the loss of milk. For 
 this food all who have been accustomed to it from infancy 
 in Africa have an excessive longing. I pointed out how 
 they might bo mutually beneficial to each other by the 
 exchange of canoes and cattle. 
 
 There are some very old Barotse living here, who wore 
 the companions of the old chief Santuru. These men, 
 protected by their age, were very free in their comments 
 on the "upstart" Makololo. One of them, for instance, 
 interrupted my conversation one day with some Makololo 
 gnntlemen with the advice " not to believe them, for they 
 were only a set of thieves;" and it was taken in quite a 
 good-natured way. It is remarkable that none of the 
 kncients hero had any tradition of an eai-thqnako having 
 occurred in this region. Their quick perception of events 
 recognizable by the senses, and rotentivoness of memory, 
 render it probable that no perceptible movement of the 
 eaith has taken place between 7° and 27° S. in the centre 
 of the continent during the last two centuries at leaat 
 Thore is no appearance of recent fracture or disturbance 
 of rocks to be seen in the central country, except the £Edl 
 
^ 
 
 
 
 .1 c 
 
 t * 
 
 
 
 ■ C 
 
 t S -1 If 
 
aoRTE — vsD ot wiwriB. 317 
 
 ef Gonye ; nor is thoro any fT^idonco or tradiuon of hu^ 
 rii«no8. 
 
 I loft Naliolo on tho 13th of August, and, -when proceed' 
 Ing along tho ehoro at mid-day, a hippopotamus struck th« 
 oanoo with hor forohoad, lifting ono-half of it quite out of 
 the water, so as nearly to overturn it. Tbo force of the 
 butt she gave tilted Mashauana out into ttrp rivor ; the lest 
 of us sprang to the shore, which was only about ton yards 
 off. Glancing hack, I saw hor como to tho surface a short 
 way oiT and look to the canoe, as if to see if she had 
 done much mischief. It was a female, whose young ono 
 had been speared tho day before. No damage was done, 
 except wetting person and goods. This is so unusual an 
 occurrence, when tho precaution is taken to coast along 
 the shore, that my men exclaimed, " Is tho boast mad ?" 
 There were eight of us in the canoe at tho time, and tho 
 shake it received shows tho immense power of this animal 
 in the water. 
 
 August 22. — This is the end of winter. The trees which 
 line the banks begin to bud and blossom, and there is some 
 show of the influence of the new sap, which will soon end 
 in buds that push off the old foliage by assuming a very 
 bright orange color. This orange is so bright that I mis- 
 took it for masses of yellow blossom. There is every 
 variety of shade in tho leaves, — ^yellow, purple, copper, 
 liver-color, and oven inky black. 
 
 Having got the loan of other canoes from Mpololo, and 
 three oxen as provision for the way, which made the 
 number we had been presented with in tho Barotso valley 
 amount to thirteen, wo proceeded down tho river toward 
 Seshoke, and were as much struck as formerly with th« 
 noblo river. Tho whole scenery is lovely, though tho atmo- 
 sphere is murky in consequence of the continuance of tho 
 smoky tinge of winter. 
 
 Tho amount of organic life is surprising. At the time 
 the river begins to rise, tho Ris religiosa comes down in 
 flocks of fifties, with prodigious numbers of other water- 
 
 27* 
 
318 ABUNDANCE Of WATEEFOWli. 
 
 fbwl. Some of the sand-banks appear whitened during 
 the day with flocks of pelicans ; I once counted three hon- 
 dred ; others are brown with ducks, {Anas histrionica,) — ^1 
 got fourteen of these by one shot, — (^Querquedula Mottentotaf 
 Smith,) and other kinds. Great numbers of gulls, (^Froeel- 
 laria turtur, Smith,) and several others, float over tho but- 
 faoe. The vast quantity of small birds which feed on ia- 
 Bocts show that the river teems also with specimens of 
 minute organic life. In walking among bushes on the 
 banks, wo are occasionally stung by a hornet, which makes 
 its nest in form like that of our own wasp, and hangs it 
 on tho branches of trees. The breeding arop-p) is so strong 
 in this insect that it pui'suos any one twenty or thirty 
 yards who happens to brush too closely past its nost. Tho 
 Bting, which it tries to inflict near tho oyo, is more like a 
 discharge of electricity from a powerful machine, or a 
 violent blow, than aught else. It produces momontaiy 
 insensibility, and is followed by the most pungent pain. 
 Yet this insect is quite timid when away from its nest 
 It is named Murotuani by the Bechuanas. 
 
 We have tsetse between ItTamcta and Sokhosi. An in- 
 sect of prey, about an inch in length, long-legged and 
 gaunt-looking, may bo observed flying about and lighting 
 upon the bare ground. It is a tiger in its way, for it 
 springs upon tsetse and other flies, and, sucking out their 
 blood, throws the bodies aside. 
 
 Long before reaching Sesheko we had been informed that 
 a party of Matebele, tho people of Mosilikatse, had brought 
 some packages of goods for me to the south bank of the 
 river, near Victoria Falls, and. though thsy declared they 
 had been sent by Mr. Moffat, tho Makololo had refused to 
 credit tho statement of their sworn enemies. They ima- 
 ^ned the parcels were directed to me as a mere trick 
 whereby to place witchcraft-medicine in the hands of the 
 Makololo. When the Matebele on tho south bank called to 
 the Makololo on the north tc come over in canoes «nd r» 
 
DISOOVBaT rORBSTALLED. 819 
 
 coivo the goods sent by Moffat to "Nako," the Makololo 
 replied, " Go along with you : we know bettor than that. 
 How could he toll Moffat to send his things here, ho having 
 gone away to the north?" The Matebolo answered, "Here 
 are the goods : wo place them now before ycu, and if you 
 leave thom to perish the guilt wiL be yours." When they 
 had departed, tht Makololo thought better of it, and, after 
 m.ich divination, went over with fear and trembling, and 
 earned the packages carefully to an island in the middle of 
 the stream; then, building a hut over them to protect 
 them from the weather, they left them ; and there I found 
 they had remained from September, 1854, till September, 
 1855, in perfect safety. Hero, as I had often experienced 
 before, I found the news was very old, and had lost much 
 of its interest by keeping ; but there wore some good eat- 
 ables from Mrs. Moffat. Among other things, I discovered 
 that my friend Sir Eoderick Murchison, while in his study 
 in London, had arrived at the same conclusion respecting 
 the form of the African continent as I had lately come to 
 on the spot ; and that from the attentive study of the geo- 
 logical map of Mr. Bain and other materials, some of which 
 were furnished by the discoveries of Mr. Oswell and my- 
 self, he had not only clearly enunciated the peculiar configu- 
 ration as a hypothesis in his discourse before the Geogra- 
 phical Society in 1852, but had even the assurance to send 
 mo out a copy for my information ! There was not much 
 use in nursing my chagrin at being thus fairly "cut out" 
 by the man who had foretold the existence of the Austra- 
 lian gold before its discovery; for here it was in black «nd 
 white. In his easy-chair he had forestalled mo by ttiroe 
 years, though I had been working hara through jangle, 
 marsh, and fever, and, since the light dawned on my mind 
 at Dilolc, had been cherishing the pleasing delusion that 1 
 should bo the first to suggest the idea that the interior of 
 Africa was a watery plateau of loss elevation than flanking 
 hilly ranges. 
 Having waited a few days at Sesheke till the horees 
 
820 TaADING-PABTT TO LOANDA. 
 
 which wo had left at Linyanti Bhould arrivo, wo procoeJod 
 to that town, and found the wagon, and every thing wt 
 had loft in November, 1853, perfectly Bafe. A grand meet- 
 ing of all the people was called to receive our report and 
 the articles which had been sent by the governor and mer- 
 chants of Loanda. I explained that none of these wore 
 ray property, but that they were sent to show the friendly 
 feelings of the white men, and their eagerness to enter into 
 commercial relations with the Makololo. I then requested 
 my companions to give a true account of what they had 
 seen. The wonderful things lost nothing in the telling, the 
 climax always being that they had finished the whole world, 
 and had turned only when there was no more land. One 
 glib old gentleman aslied, " Then you reached Ma Robert 
 [Mrs. L.] ?" They were obliged to confess that she lived 
 a little beyond the world. The presents wore received with 
 expressions of great satisfaction and delight j and on Sun- 
 day, when Sekeletu made his appearance at church in his 
 uniform, it attracted more attention than the sermon ; and 
 the kind expressions they made use of respecting myself 
 were so very flattering that I felt inclined to shut my eyes. 
 Their private opinion must have tallied with their public 
 report, for I ^ery soon received ofiers from volunteers to 
 accompany rre to the east coast. They said they wished 
 to be able to return and relate strange things like my re- 
 cent companions; and Sekeletu immediately made arrange- 
 ments with the Arab Ben Habid to conduct a fresh party 
 with a load of ivory to Loanda Those, he said, must go 
 with him and learn to trade ; they were not to have any 
 thing to do in the disposal of the ivory, but simply look 
 and learn. My companions wore to remain and rest them 
 B«lvos, and thci) return to Loanda when the others had 
 come homo. Sekeletu consulted me as to sending presents 
 back to the governor and merchants of Loanda; but, not 
 possessing much confidence in this Arab, I advised him to 
 send a preso'it by Pitsane, as he knew who ought to r<y 
 ceive it 
 
DR. LIVINGSTONE REPROVES SEKEtETU. 821 
 
 Since my arrival in England, information has been re- 
 mivod irom Mr. Gabriel that this party had arrived on the 
 west coast, but that the ivory had boon disposed of to some 
 Portuguese merchants in the interior, ana the men had 
 been obliged to carry it down to Loanda. They had not 
 been introduced to Mr. Gabriel, but that gentleman, having 
 learned that they were in the city, went to them and pro- 
 nounced the names Fitsane, Mashauana, when all started up 
 and crowded round him. When Mr. G. obtained an inter- 
 preter, he learned that they had been ordered by Sekeletn 
 to be sure and go to my brother, as he termed him. Mr. 
 G. behaved in the same liberal manner as he had done to 
 my companions, and they departed for their distant home 
 after bidding him a formal and affectionate adieu. 
 
 During the time of our absence at Loanda, the Makololo 
 had made two forays and captured large herds of cattle 
 One to the lake was in order to punish Lechulatobe for 
 the insolence he had manifested after procuring some fire- 
 arms ; and the other to Sebola Makwaia, a chief living far 
 to the N.B. This was most unjustifiable, and had beon 
 condemned by all the influential Makololo. 
 
 In accordance with the advice of my Libonta friends, I 
 did not fail to reprove " my child Sekeletu" for his marau- 
 ding. This was not done in an angry manner, for no good 
 is ever achieved by fierce denunciations. Motibe, his 
 father-in-law, said to me, " Scold him much, but don't let 
 others hear you.'' 
 
 The Makololo expressed great satisfaction with the route 
 we had opened up to tho west, and soon after our arrival a 
 " picho" was called, in order to discuss the question of 
 removal to the Barotso valley, so that thoy might be nearer 
 the market. Some of the older men objected to abandon- 
 ing the line of defence afforded by the rivers Chobe and 
 Zambesi against their southern enemies the Matebelo. Tho 
 Makololo generally have an aversion to the Barotso valley, 
 on account of the fevers which are annually engendered in 
 it as the waters dry up. They prefer it only as a oattl* 
 V 
 
S22 KINDNKSS OF THE KAS.OumJO CBJXt. 
 
 ■tatioi J for, though the herds are frequently thinned by » 
 epidemic disease, (jperipneumonia,') they breed so fast that the 
 losses are soon made good. Wherever else the Makololo 
 go, they always leave a portion of their stock in the charge 
 of herdsmen in that prolific valley. Some of the younger 
 men objected to removal because the rankness of the grasi 
 at the Barotse did not allow of their running fast, and be- 
 cause there "it never becomes cool " 
 
 Sekoletu at last stood up, and, addressing me, said, "I am 
 perfectly satisfied as to the great advantages for trade of 
 the path which you have opened, and think that we ought 
 to go to the Barotse, in order to make the way from us to 
 Loanda shorter; but with whom am I to live there ? If 
 you were coming with us, I would remove to-morrow; but 
 now you are going to the white man's country to bring Ma 
 Bobert, and when you return you wiU find me near to the 
 ■pot on which you wish to dwell." I had then no idea 
 that any healthy spot existed in the country, and thought 
 only of a convenient central situation, adapted for inter- 
 course with the adjacent tribes and with the coast, such ac 
 that near to the confluence of the Leeba and Leeambye. 
 
 During the whole of my stay with the Makololo, Seke- 
 lutu supplied my wants abundantly, appointing some cowi 
 to furnish me with milk, and, when he went out to hunt, 
 sent home orders for slaughtered oxen to be given. That 
 the food was not given in a niggardly spirit may be inferred 
 from the fact that when I proposed to depart on the 20th 
 of October he protested against my going off in such a 
 hot sun. "Only wait," said he, "for the first shower, and 
 then I wlU let yon go." This was reasonable, for the theiw 
 mometer, placed upon a deal box in the sun, rose to 188". 
 It stood at 108" in the shade by day, and 96° at sunset. 
 
 I still possessed some of the coffee which I had brought 
 from Angola, and some of the sugar which I had left in my 
 wagon. So long as the sugar lasted, Sekeletu favored me 
 with his company at meals; but the sugar soon came to a 
 eio«e The Makololo, as formerly mentioned, were wtU 
 
8EKEI.ET17'S OOMMISSIONS- 323 
 
 ftoqnainted with the sugarcane, as it is cultivated by the 
 Barotse, but never knew that sugar could be got from it 
 When I explained the process by which it was produced^ 
 Sekeletu asked if I could not buy him an apparatus for the 
 purpose of making sugar. He said he would plant the 
 oane largely if he only had the means of making the sugar 
 from it. I replied that I was unable to purchase a mill, 
 when he instantly rejoined, "Why not take ivory to buy 
 t?" As I had been living at his expense, I was glad of 
 the opportunity to show my gratitude by serving him; and 
 when he and his principal men understood that I was 
 willing to execute a commission, Sekeletu gave me an 
 order for a sugar-mill, and for all the different varieties of 
 clothing that he had ever seen, especially a mohair coat, a 
 good rifle, beads, brass wire, &c. &c., and wound up by 
 saying, "And any other beautiful thing you may see in 
 your own country." As to the quantity of ivory required 
 to execute the commission, I said I feared that a large 
 amount would be necessary. Both he and his councillors 
 replied, " The ivory is all your own : if you leave any in 
 the country it will be your own feult." He was also 
 Anxious for horses. The two I had left with him when 1 
 went to Loanda were BtUl living, and had been of great use 
 to him in hunting the giraffe and eland ; and he was now 
 anxious to have a breed. This, I thought, might be ob- 
 tained at the Portuguese settlements. All were very much 
 delighted with the donkeys we had brought from Loanda. 
 As we found that they were not affected by the bite of th« 
 tsetse, and there was a prospect of the breed being con- 
 tinued, it was gratifying to see the experiment of their 
 introduction so far successful. The donkeys came as 
 frisky as kids all the way from Loanda until we began 
 to descend the Leeambye. There we came upon so many 
 mterlacing branches of the river, r.nd were obliged to 
 drag them through such masses of tangled aquatic plants, 
 that we half drowned them, and were at last obliged to 
 leave them, somewhat exhausted, at Naliele They exoitnd 
 
824 TUX author's ranuENOs with thi: vaxtvmb. 
 
 the tmbonnded admiration of my men by their knowledge 
 of the different kinds of plants, which, as they remarked, 
 «tho animals had never before seen in their own country;" 
 and when the donkeys indulged in their music the} 
 startled the inhabitants more than if they had been liona 
 We never rode them, nor yet the horse which had beer 
 given by the bishop, for fear of hurting them by any 
 work. 
 
 Although theMakololo were so confiding, the reader must 
 not imagine that they would bo so to every individual who 
 might visit them. Much of my influence depended upon 
 the good name given me by the Bakwains, and that I 
 secured only through a long course of tolerably good con- 
 duct. No one ever gains much influence in this country 
 without purity and uprightness. The acts of a stranger 
 are keenly scrutinized by both young and old; and seldom 
 is the judgment pronounced, even by the heathen, unfair 
 or uncharitable. I have hoard women speaking in admira- 
 tion of a white man because he was pure and never was 
 guilty of any secret immorality. Had he been, they would 
 have known it, and, untutored heathen though they be, 
 would have despised him in consequence. Secret vice 
 becomes known throughout the tribe j and, while one un- 
 acquainted with the language may imagine a peccadillo to 
 be hidden, it is as patent to all as it would be in London 
 had he a placard on his back. 
 
 27th October, 1855. — The first continuous rain of the 
 season commenced during the night, the wind being &om 
 the N.E., as it always was on like occasions ac Kolobeng. 
 The rainy season was thus begun, and I made ready to go 
 The mother of Sekeletu prepared a bag of groundnuts, by 
 ftying them with cream with a little salt, as a sort of sand- 
 wiches for my journey. This is considered food fit for • 
 chief. Others ground the maize from my own garden into 
 meal, and Sokeletu pointed out Sekwebu and Kanyata as 
 the persons who should head the party intended to form 
 my company. Sekwehu had been captured by the Hatebele 
 
BEMABKS or MAMIRE. S2b 
 
 when a little boy, and the tribe in which he was a captive 
 had migrated to the coantiy near Tete ; he had travelled 
 along both banks of the Zambesi several times, and was 
 intimately acquainted with the dialects spoken there. I 
 fonnd him to be % person of great prudence and sonnd 
 judgment, and his subsequent loss at the Mauritius has 
 been, ever since, a source of sincere regret. Ho at once 
 recommended our keeping well away from the river, on 
 account of the tsetse and rocky country, assigning also as 
 a reason for it that the Leeambye beyond the falls turns 
 round to the N.N.E. Mamire, who had married the mother 
 of Sekelietu, on coming to bid me farewell before starting, 
 said, "You are now going among people who cannot be 
 trusted, because we have used them badly j but you go with 
 a different message from any they ever heard before, and 
 Jesus will be with you and help you, though among enemies; 
 and if he carries you safely, and brings you and Ma Eobort 
 back again, I shall say he has bestowed a great favor upon 
 me. May we obtain a path whereby wo may visit and be 
 visited by other tribes and by white men I" On telling 
 him my fears that he was still inclined to follow the old 
 marauding system, which prevented intercourse, and that 
 he, &om his influential position, was especially guilty in the 
 late forays, he acknowledged all rather too freely for my 
 taste, but seemed quite aware that the old system was fat 
 from right. Mentioning my inability to pay the men who 
 were to accompany me, he replied, " A man wishes, of 
 course, to appear among his friends, after a long absence, 
 with something of his own to show : the whole of the 
 ivory in the country is yours, so you must take as much tm 
 you can, and Sekoletu will furnish men to carry it." These 
 remarks of Mamire are quoted literally, in order to show 
 the state of mind of the most influential in the tribe. And, 
 as I wish to give tho reader a fair idea of the other side of 
 the question as well, it may be mentioned that Motibe 
 parried the imputation of tho guilt of marauding by every 
 possible subterfiige. He would not admit that they had 
 
826 A THUNln.»«TOKM. 
 
 done wrong, and laid the guilt of the wars in which the 
 Makololo had engaged on the Boers, the Matebele, and 
 every other tribe except his own. When quite a youth, 
 Motibe's family had been attacked by a party of Boers : he 
 hid himself in an ant-eater's hole, but was drawn out and 
 tiirashed with a whip of hippopotamus-hide. When en- 
 joined to live in peace, he would reply, " Teach the Boers 
 to lay down their arms first." Yet Motibe, on other occa- 
 sions, seemed to feel the difference between those who are 
 Christians indeed and those who are so only in name. In 
 hll our discussions we parted good friends. 
 
 « 
 
 CHAPTEE XXVI. 
 
 D». UTtNGSTONK DI800VEK8 THE TAIiS Of VIOTOBIA. 
 
 On the 3d of November we bade adieu to our friends at 
 Linyanti, accompanied by Sekeletu and about 200 followers. 
 We were all fed at his expense, and he took cattle for this 
 pnrposo from every station we came to. The principal 
 men of the Makololo, Lebeole, Ntlarie, Nkwatlele, &o. were 
 also of the party. We passed through the patch of the 
 tsetse, which exists between Linyanti and Sesheke, by night. 
 The majority of the company went on by daylight, in 
 ordei to prepare our beds. Sekeletu and I, with about 
 forty young men, waited outside the tsetse till dark. W* 
 then went forward, and about ten o'clock it became so 
 ^tohy dark that both horses and men were completely 
 blinded. The lightning spread over the sky, forming eight 
 or ten branches at a time, in shapr xactly like those of a 
 tree. This, with great volumes of sueet-lightning, enabled 
 OS at times to see the whole country. The intervals between 
 the flashes were so densely dark as to convey the idea of 
 stone-hlindness. The horses trembled, cried out, and tamed 
 nmnd, m ^ searchinir for each other, and every new flash 
 
KINI>NB8& OH MAKOLOLO. 827 
 
 revealed the men taking different directions, laughing, and 
 Btombling against each other. The thunder was of that tre> 
 mendously-loud kind only to be heard in tropical countries, 
 and which friends from India have assured me is louder 
 in Africa than any they have ever heard elsewhere. Then 
 oame a pelting rain, which completed our confusion. After 
 the intense heat of the day, we soon felt miserably cold, 
 and turned aside to a fire we saw in the distance. This 
 had been made by some people on their march; for this 
 path is seldom without numbers of strangers passing to and 
 from the capital. My clothing having gone on, 1 lay down 
 on the cold ground, expecting to spend a miserable night ; 
 but Sekeletu kindly covered me with his own blanket and 
 lay uncovered himself. I was much affected by this act 
 of genuine kindness. If such men must perish by the 
 advance of civilization, as certain races of animals do be- 
 fore others, it is a pity. God grant that ere this time 
 comes they may receive that gospel which is a solace foi 
 the soul in death 1 
 
 While at Sesheke, Sekeletu supplied me with twelve 
 oxen, — ^tbree of which were accustomed to being ridden 
 upon, — hoes, and beads to purchase a canoe when we 
 should strike the Leeambye beyond the falls. He likewise 
 presented abundance of good fresh butter and honey, and 
 did every thing in his power to make mo comfortable for 
 the journey. I was entirely dependent on his generosity; 
 for the goods I originally brought from the Gape were all 
 expended by the time I set off from Linyanti to the west 
 coast. I there drew £70 of my salary, paid my men with 
 it, and purchased goods for the retumTJourney to LinyantL 
 These being now all expended, the Makololo again fitted 
 me out, and sent me on to the east coast. I was thus 
 dependent on their bounty and that of other Africans for 
 the means of going from Linyanti to Loanda, and again 
 from Linyanti to the east coast, and I feel deeply gratefol 
 to tiiem. Coin would have been of no benefit, for gold and 
 ■ilver are ^ait« nnkiown. We wwe here joined by 
 
828 sekote's island. 
 
 Moriantsdne, ancle of Sekeletu and head-man of Sesheke, 
 and, entering canoes on the 13th, some sailed down tb4 
 river to the confluence of the Chobe, while others drove tha 
 cattle along the banks, spending one night at Mparia, th« 
 island at the confluence of the Chobe, which is composed 
 ^f trap having crystals of quartz in it coated with a 
 peUicle of green copper-ore. Attempting to proceed down 
 ihe river next day, we were detained some hours by a 
 strong east wind raising waves so large as to threaten to 
 swamp the canoe. The river here is very large and deep, 
 and contains two considerable islands, which &om either 
 bank seem to be joined to the opposite shore. 
 
 Having descended about ten miles, we came to th« 
 island of I^ampene, at the beginning of the rapids, where 
 w« were obUged to leave the canoes and proceed along the 
 banks on foot. The next evening we slept opposite the 
 island of Chondo, and, then crossing the Lekone or Lek- 
 w?ne, early the following morning were at the island of 
 Sekote, called ELalai. This Sekote was the last of the 
 Batoka chiefs whom Sebituane rooted out. 
 
 As this was the point from which we intended to strike 
 off to the northeast, I resolved on the following day to 
 visit the falls of Yictoria, called by the natives Mosioa- 
 tunya, or, more anciently, Shongwe. Of these we had 
 often heard since we came into the country : indeed, one 
 of the questions asked by Sebituane was, " Have you smoke 
 that sounds in your country?" They did not go near 
 enough to examine them, but, viewing them with awe at 
 a distance, said, in reference to the vapor and noise, " Moai 
 oa tunya," (smoke does sound there.) It was previously 
 called Shongwe, the meaning of which I could not ascer- 
 tain. The word for a "pot" resembles this, and it may 
 mean a seething caldron; but I am not certain of it. 
 Being persuaded that Mr. Oswell and myself were the very 
 first Boropeans who ever visited the Zambesi in the centre 
 of the oountiy, and that this is the connecting-link between 
 the knoira and unknown portions »f that rirer, £ decided 
 
VICTORIA PALM. 329 
 
 to use the same liberty as the Makololo did, and gave tho 
 only English name I have affixed to any part of the country. 
 No better proof of previous ignorance of this river could be 
 desired than that an untravelled gentleman, who had spent a 
 great part of his life in the study of the geography of Africa 
 and knew every thing written on the subject from the time 
 of Ptolemy downward, actually asserted in the " Athenaeum," 
 while I was coming up the Bed Sea, that this magnificent 
 river, the Leeambye, " had no connection with the Zambesi, 
 but flowed under the Kalahara Desert and became lost;" 
 and " that, as all the old maps asserted, the Zambesi took its 
 rise in the very hills to which we have now come." This 
 modest assertion smacks exactly as if a native of Timbuctoo 
 should declare that the " Thames " and the " Pool " were dif- 
 ferent rivers, he having seen neither the one nor the other. 
 Leeambye and Zambesi mean the very same thing, — viz., the 
 RrvEE. 
 
 Sekeletu intended to accompany me; but, one canoe 
 only having come instead of the two he had ordered, he 
 resigned it to me. After twenty minutes' sail from Kalai 
 we came ui sight, for the first time, of the columns of vapor 
 appropriately called "smoke," rising at a distance of five 
 or six miles, exactly as when large tracts of grass are 
 burned in Africa. Five columns now arose, and, bending 
 in the direction of the wind, they seemed placed against a 
 low ridge covered with trees ; tho tops of the columns at 
 this distance appeared to mingle with the clouds. They 
 were white below, and higher up became dark, so aa to 
 ■imnlate smoke very closely. The whole scene was ex 
 tremely beautiful. The banks and islands dotted over zht 
 river are adorned with sylvan vegetation of great variety 
 of color and form. At the period of our visit several trees 
 wore spangled over with blossoms. Trees have each their 
 own physiognomy. There, towering over all, stands the 
 great burly baobab, each of whose enormous arms would 
 form the trunk of a large tree, besides groups of gracofol 
 palms, which, with their feathery-shaped leaves depicted 
 
 18« 
 
330 VICTORIA lALLS 
 
 OD the sky, lend their beauty to the scene As a hienv 
 glyphio they always mean " far from home," for one can 
 never get over their foreign air in a p' ature or landscape 
 The silvery mohonono— which in the tropics is in form like 
 the cedar of Lebanon — stands in pleasing contrast with th« 
 dark color of the motsouri, whose cypress-form is dotted 
 over at present with its pleasant scarlet fruit. Some trees 
 resemble the great spreading oak ; others assume the cha- 
 racter of our own elms and chestnuts; but no one can 
 imagine the beauty of the view from any thing witnessed 
 in England. It had never been seen before by European 
 eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by 
 angels in their flight. The only want felt is that of moun- 
 tains in the background. The falls are bounded on three 
 sides by ridges three hundred or four hundred feet in 
 height, which are covered with forest, with the red soil 
 appearing among the trees. When about half a mile from 
 the falls, I left the canoe by which we had come down 
 thus far, and embarked in a lighter one, with men well 
 acquainted with the rapids, who, by passing down the 
 centre of the stream in the eddies and still places caused 
 by many jutting rocks, brought me to an island situated in 
 the middle of the river and on the edge of the lip over 
 which the water roUs. In coming hither there was danger 
 of being swept down by the streams which rushed along 
 an each side of the island ; but the river was now low, and 
 we sailed where it is totally impossible to go when the 
 water is high. But, though we had reached the island, 
 and were within a few yards of the spot a view from 
 which would solve the whole problem, I believe that no 
 (me could perceive where the vast body of water went : it 
 seemed to lose itself in the earth, the opposite lip of the 
 fissure into which it disappeared being only eighty feet 
 distant. At least I did not comprehend it until, oree]»ng 
 with awe to the verge, I peered down into a large rent 
 which had been made from bank to bank of the broad 
 Zamb««, and saw that a stream of a thousand yards broad 
 
TIOTOBIA fALU. 331 
 
 teaped down a hundred feet and then became suddenly 
 compressed into a space of fifteen or twenty yards. The 
 entire falls are simply a crack made in a hard basaltic 
 rock from the right to the left bank of the Zambosi, and 
 then prolonged from the left bank away through thirty or 
 forty miles of hills. If one imagines the Thames filled 
 with low, tree-covered hills immediately beyond the tunnel, 
 extending as far as Gravesend, the bed of black basaltic 
 rock instead of London mud, and a fissure made therein 
 from one end of the tunnel to the other down through the 
 keystones of the arch, and prolonged from the left end of 
 the tunnel through thirty miles of hills, the pathway being 
 one hundred feet down from the bed of the river instead 
 of what it is, with the lips of the fissure from eighty to 
 one hundred feet apart, then fancy the Thames leaping 
 boldly into the gulf, and forced there to change its direc- 
 tion and flow from the right to the left bank and then 
 rush boiling and roaring through the hills, he may have 
 some idea of what takes place at this, the most wonderful 
 light I had witnessed in Africa. In looking down into the 
 fissure on the right of the island, one sees nothing but a 
 dense white cloud, which, at the time we visited the spot, 
 had two bright rainbows on it. (The sun was on the 
 meridian, and the declination about equal to the latitude 
 of the place.) From this cloud rushed up a great jet of 
 vapor exactly like steam, and it mounted two hundred or 
 three hundred feet high ; there, condensing, it changed its 
 hue to that of dark smoke, and came back in a constant 
 ■hower, which soon wetted us to the skin. This shower 
 iUls chiefly on the opposite side of the fissure, and a few 
 yards back from the Up there stands a straight hedge of 
 evergreen trees, whose loaves are always wet. From their 
 roots a number of little rills run back into the gulf; but) 
 as they flow down the steep wall there, the column af 
 vapor, in its ascent, licks them up clean off the rook, and 
 away they mount again. They are constantly running 
 iowa, but aever reach the bottom. 
 
882 <}iaA.NTIO FIBBUKE. 
 
 On the left of the island we see the water at the battom, 
 A white rolling mass moving away to the prolongation of 
 the fissure, which branches off near the left bank of the 
 tiver. A piece of the rock has fallen off a spot on the left 
 of the island, and juts out from the water below, and from 
 it I judged the distance which the water falls to be about 
 one hundred feet. The walls of this gigantic crack are 
 perpendicular, and composed of one homogeneous mass of 
 rock. The edge of that side over which the water falls is 
 worn off two or three feet, and pieces have fallen away, so 
 as to give it somewhat of a serrated appearance. That 
 over which the water does not fall is quite straight, except 
 A the left corner, where a rent appears and a piece Reems 
 inclined to fall off. Upon the whole, it is nearly in the 
 state in which it was left at the period of its formation. 
 The rock is dark brown in color, except about ten feet from 
 the bottom, which is discolored by the annual rise of the 
 water to that or a greater height. On the left side of the 
 island we have a good view of the mass of water which 
 causes one of the columns of vapor to ascend, as it leaps 
 quite clear of the rock, and forms a thick unbroken fleece 
 all the way to the bottom. Its whiteness gave the idea of 
 ■now, a sight I had not seen for many a day. As it broke 
 into (if I may use the term) pieces of water all rushing on 
 in the same direction, each gave off several rays of foam, 
 exactly as bits of steel, when burned in oxygen gas, give 
 off rays of sparks. The snow-white sheet seemed like 
 myriads of small comets rushing on in one direction, each 
 of which left behind its nucleus-rays of foam. I never saw 
 the appearance referred to noticed elsewhere. It seemed 
 to be the effect of the mass of water leaping at once oleai 
 of the rock and but slowly breaking up into spray. 
 
 I have mentioned that we saw five columns of vapoi 
 Mcending from this strange abyss. They are evidently 
 formed by the compression suffered by tiie force of the 
 water's own fall into an imyielding wedge-shaped spaoe. 
 or tlie five columns, two on the ri|{ht and one on the loft of 
 
ths island -vrero the largest, and the streams which formed 
 them seemed each to exceed in size the falls of the Clyde 
 at Btonebyros when that river is in flood. This was the 
 period of low-water in the Looambyo; but, as fiir as I 
 ooold guess, there was a flow of five or sue hundred yardi 
 of water, which, at the edge of the fall, seemed at least 
 three feet deep. 
 
 Having feasted my eyes long on the boautifdl sight, 1 
 returned to my friends at Kalai, and, saying to Sekoleta 
 that he had nothing else worth showing in his country, his 
 cariosity was excited to visit it the next day. I returned 
 with the intention of taking a lunar observation from the 
 island itself; but the clouds wore unfavorable, consequently 
 all my determinations of position refer to Kalai. (Lat. 17° 
 51' 54" S., long. 25° 41' E.) Sekeletu acknowledged to feel- 
 ing a little nervous at the probability of being sucked into 
 the gulf before reaching the island. His companions 
 amused themselves by throwing stones down, and won- 
 dered to see them diminishing in size, and even disappear- 
 ing, before they reached the water at the bottom 
 
 I had another object in view in my return to the island. 
 I observed that it was covered with trees, the seeds of 
 which had probably come down with the stream from the 
 distant north, and several of which I had seen nowhere 
 else, and every now and then the wind wafted a little of 
 the condensed vapor over it, and kept the soil in a state of 
 moisture, which caused a sward of grass, growing as green 
 as on an English lawn. I selected a spot — not too near 
 the chasm, for there the constant deposition of the moisture 
 nourished numbers of polyp" of a mushroom shape and 
 fleshy consistence, but somewhat back — and made a Uttle 
 garden. I there planted about a hundred peach and apricot 
 ■tones, and a quantity of coflee-seeds. I had attempted 
 fruit-trees before, but, when left in charge of my Makololo 
 friends, they were always allowed to wither, after having 
 vegetated, by being forgotten. I bargained for a hedge 
 with one of the Makololo, and, if he is faithful, 1 have groat 
 
834 BESuMPnoN or the JovaNEY. 
 
 hopes of Mosioatunya's abilities as a narsery-man. ULy 
 only source of fear is the hippopotami, whose footprints 1 
 saw on the island. When the garden was prepared, I cat 
 my initials on a tree, and the date 1855. This was the only 
 instance in which I indulged in this piece of vanity. The 
 garden stands in front, and, were there no hippopotami, I 
 have no doubt but this will be the parent of all the gardens 
 which may yet be in this new country. We then went up 
 to Kalai again. 
 
 20th November. — Sekeletu and his large party having 
 conveyed me thus far, and furnished me with a company 
 of one hundred and fourteen men to carry the tusks to the 
 coast, we bade adieu to the Makololo and proceeded north- 
 ward to the Lekone. The country around is very beautiful, 
 and was once well peopled with Batoka, who possessed 
 enormous herds of cattle. When Sebituane came in former 
 times, with his small but warlike party of Makololo, to 
 this spot, a general rising took place of the Batoka through 
 the whole country, in order to "eat him up;" but his usual 
 success followed him, and, dispersing them, the Makololo 
 obtained so many cattle that they could not take any note 
 of the herds of sheep and goats. The tsetse has been 
 brought by buffaloes into some districts where formerly 
 cattle abounded. This obliged us to travel the first few 
 stages by night. We could not well detect the nature of 
 the country in the dim moonlight: the path, however, 
 seemed to lead along the high bank of what may have 
 been the ancient bed of the Zambesi before the fissure was 
 made. The Lekone now winds in it in an opposite direc- 
 tion to that in which the ancient river must have flowed. 
 
 2ith. — ^We remained a day at the village of Moyara. 
 Here the valley in which the Lekone flows trends away to 
 the eastward, while our course is more to the northeast. 
 The country is rocky and rough, the soil being red sand, 
 which is covered with beautiful green trees, yielding abun- 
 dance of wild fruits. The father of Moyara was a powerful 
 flhief ; but the son now sits among the mins of tho town. 
 
RAVAGE CUSTOMS OF BATOKA 886 
 
 with four of five wives and very few people. At his hamlet 
 B number of stakes are planted in the ground, and I counted 
 fifty-four human skalls hung on their points. These were 
 Matebele, who, unable to approach Sebituane on the island 
 of Loyola, had returned sick and famishing. Moyara'i 
 &ther took advantage of their reduced condition, and, after 
 putting them to death, mounted their heads in the Batokti 
 fashion. The old man who perpetrated this deed now lie« 
 in the middle of his son's huts, with a lot of rotten ivoiy 
 over his grave. One cannot help feeling thankful that the 
 reign of such wretches is over. They inhabited the whole 
 of this side of the country, and were probably the barrier to 
 the extension of the Portuguese commerce in this direction. 
 When looking at these skulls, I remarked to Moyara that 
 many of them were those of mere boys. He assented 
 readily, and pointed them out as such. I asked why his 
 father had killed boys. " To show his fierceness," was the 
 answer. "Is it fierceness to kill boys?" "Yes : they had 
 no business here." When T told him that this would pro- 
 bably insure his own death if the Matebele came again, he 
 replied, " When I hear of their coming I shall hide the 
 bones." He was evidently proud of these trophies of 
 his father's fero6ity; and I was assured by other Batoka 
 that few strangers ever returned from a visit to this quar- 
 ter. If a man wished to curry favor with a Batoka chief, 
 he ascertained when a stranger was about to leave, and 
 waylaid him at a distance from the town, and when he 
 brought his head back to the chief it was mounted as a 
 trophy, the different chiefs vieing with each other as to 
 which should mount the greatest number of skulls in hu 
 tillage. 
 
 Next day we came to Namilanga, or " The Well of Joy." 
 It is a small well dug beneath a very large fig-tree, the 
 shade of which renders the water delightfully cool. The 
 temperature through the day was 104° in the shade and 94* 
 after sunset, but the air was not at all oppressive. This 
 well receives its name fix>m the £act that, in former tunes, 
 
836 KNOCKING OITT TBONT TBETD. 
 
 maronding-parties, in retondng with cattle, Bat down here 
 and wero regaled with boyaloa, music, and the Inllilooing 
 of the women from the adjacent towns. 
 
 All the snrronnding country was formerly densely peo- 
 pled, though now desolate and still. The old head-man 
 of the place told us that his father once went to Bambala, 
 where white traders lived, when our informant was a child, 
 and returned when he had become a boy of about ten years. 
 He went again, and returned when it was time to knock 
 out his son's teeth. As that takes place at the age of 
 puberty, he must have spent at least five years in each 
 'oumey. He added that many who went there never re- 
 'turned, because they liked that country better than this. 
 They had even forsaken their wives and children ; and 
 children had been so enticed and flattered by the finery 
 bestowed upon them there that they had disowned their 
 parents and adopted others. The place to which they had 
 gone, which they named Bambala, was probably Damba- 
 rari, which was situated close to Zumbo. This was the 
 first intimation we had of intercourse with the whites. 
 The Barotse, and all the other tribes in the central valley, 
 have no such tradition as this ; nor have either the one or 
 the other any account of a trader's visit to them in ancient 
 times. 
 
 All theBatoka tribes follow the curious custom of knock- 
 ing out the upper front teeth at the age of puberty. This 
 18 done by both sexes ; and though the under teeth, being 
 relieved from the attrition of the upper, grow long and 
 somewhat bent out and thereby cause the under lip to pro- 
 trude in a most unsightly way, no young woman thinks 
 herself accomplished until she has got rid of the upper in- 
 cisors. This custom gives all the Batoka an uncouth, old- 
 man-like appearance. Their laugh is hideous; yet they 
 are so attached to it that even Sebituane was unable to 
 eradicate the practice. He issued orders that none of the 
 children living under him should be subjected to the custom 
 by their parents, and disobedience to his mandates waa 
 
THE TaAVfiLLlNO PARPT. ii?jl 
 
 asnally punished vrith severity; but, notwithstanding this, 
 the children would appear in the streets without their in^ 
 eieors, and no one would confess to the dc&d. "WLcn ques- 
 tioned respecting the origin of this practice, the Batoka 
 reply that their object is to bo like oxen, and those wlio 
 retain their teeth they consider to resemble zebra-;' 
 WTiether this is the true reason or not it is difBi'.ult U> 
 *ay; but it is noticeable that the veneration for oxen which 
 prevails in many tribes should be associated with hatred 
 to the zebra, as among the Bakwains, that this operation 
 is performed at the same age that circumcision is in other 
 tribes, and that hero that ceremony is unknown. The 
 custom is so universal that a person who has his teeth is 
 considered ugly; and occasionally, when the Batoka bor- 
 rowed my looking-glass, the disparaging remark would bo 
 made respecting boys or girls who stiU retained their teeth, 
 " Look at the great teeth !" Some of the Makololo give a 
 more facetious explanation of the custom : they say that, . 
 the wife of a chief having in a quarrel bitten her husband's 
 hand, he, in revenge, ordered her front teeth to be knocked 
 out, and all the men in the tribe followed hia example : but 
 this does not explain why they afterward knocked out 
 their own. 
 
 The Batoka of the Zambesi are generally very dark in 
 color and very degraded and negro-like in appearance, 
 while those who live on the high lands we are now ascend- 
 ing are frequently of the color of coffee and milk. Wo 
 had a largo number of the Batoka of Mokwino in our 
 party, sent by Sekcletu to carry his tusks. Their greater 
 degradation was probably caused by the treatment of their 
 chiefs, — the barbarians of the islands. I found them more 
 difScnlt to manage than any of the rest of my companions, 
 being much less reasonable and impressible than the others. 
 MLy party consisted of the head-men aforementioned, Sek- 
 webn, and Kanyata. We were joined at the falls by 
 imothor head-man of the Makololo, named Monahin, in 
 oommand of the Batoka. We had also some of the Bana- 
 
488 REMAINS OV ANHQOTTT. 
 
 joa nnder Mosisinyano, and, last of all, a small jiarty of 
 Bashnbia and Barotse under Tuba Mokoro, -which had boon 
 furnished by Sekeletu because of their ability to swim 
 They carried their paddles with them, and, as the Makololo 
 suggested, were able to swim over the rivers by night and 
 steal canoes if the inhabitants should be so unrcasonabJa 
 as to refuse to lend them. These different parties assorted 
 together into messes : any orders were given through their 
 head-man, and when food was obtained he distributed it to 
 the mess. Bach party knew its own spot in the encamp 
 ment ; and, as this was always placed so that our backs 
 should be to the cast, the direction from whence the pro- 
 vailing winds came, no time was lost in fixing the sheds of 
 our encampment. They each took it in turn to puU grass 
 to make my bed ; so I lay luxuriously. 
 
 November 26. — As the oxen could only move at night, in 
 consequence of a fear that the buffaloes in this quartoi 
 might have introduced the tsetse, I usually performed the 
 march by day on foot, while some of the men brought on 
 the oxen by night. On coming to the villages undei 
 Marimba, an old man, we crossed the Unguesi, a rivulet 
 which, like the Lekone, runs backward. It falls into the 
 Leeambye a little above the commencement of the rapids. 
 
 We passed the remains of a very large town, which, froa 
 the only evidence of antiquity afforded by ruins in this 
 country, must have been inhabited for a long period : the 
 millstones of gneiss, trap, and quartz were worn down two 
 and a half inches perpendicularly. The ivory gravestones 
 soon rot away. Those of Moyara's father, who must have 
 died not more than a dozen years ago, wore crumbling into 
 powder ; and we found this to bo generally the case all 
 over the Batoka country. The region around is pretty 
 well covered with forest ; but there is abundance of opew 
 pasturage, and, as we are ascending in altitude, we fint' 
 the grass to be short and altogether unlike the tangled 
 herbage of the Barotse valley. 
 
LOW HIUiS. S88 
 
 CHAPTER XXVn. 
 
 THI BATOKA OOUNIBY — DB. LIYINGSIONE VISHB Till OHDU 
 
 MONZE. 
 
 November 27. — Still at Marimba's. In the adjacont 
 country palms abonnd, but nono of tnai; species which 
 yields the oil: indeed, that is met witu oniy near the 
 coast. There are numbers of flowers ana quids just shoot- 
 ing up from the soil. The surface is rongli and broken 
 into gullies; and, though the country is parched, it has 
 not that appearance, so many trees having put forth their 
 fresh green leaves at the time the rains ought to have 
 come. Among the rest stands the mola, with its dark 
 brownish-green color and spreading oak-like form. In the 
 distance there are ranges of low hills. On the north we 
 have one called Kanjele, and to the oast that of Kaonka, to 
 which we proceed to-morrow. Wo have made a consider- 
 able detour to the north, both on account of our wish to 
 avoid the tsetse and to visit the people. Those of Kaonka 
 are the last Batoka we shall meet in friendship with the 
 Makololo. 
 
 November 28. — The inhabitants of the last of Kaonka'a 
 villages complained of being plundered by the independent 
 Batoka. The tribes in front of this are regarded by the 
 Makololo as in a state of rebellion. I promised to speak to 
 the rebels on the subject, and enjoined on Kaonka the duty 
 of giving them no offence. According to Sekeletu's order, 
 Kaonka gave us the tribute of maize-corn and groundnuts 
 which would otherwise have gone to Linyanti. This had 
 been done at every village, and wo thereby saved the 
 people the trouble of a journey to the capital. My own 
 Batoka had brought away such loads of provisions from 
 their homos that we were in no want of food. 
 
840 BoaDBa-TEaaiTOBT 
 
 After leaving Kaonka, we travelled over an uninhabited, 
 gefitly-undulating, and most beautiful district, the border- 
 torritory between those who accept and those who reject 
 the away of the Makololo. The face of the country appears 
 as if in long waves running north and south. There are 
 no rivers, though water stands in pools in the hollowe. 
 We were now come into the country which my people ail 
 magnify as a perfect paradise. Sebituano was driven from 
 it by the Matebele. It suited him exactly for cattle, com, 
 and health. The soil is dry, and often a reddish sand: 
 there are few trees, but fine large shady ones stand dotted 
 here and there over the country where towns formerly 
 stood. One of the fig family I measured and found to be 
 forty feet in circumference ; the heart had been burned out, 
 and some one had made a lodging m it, for we saw the 
 remains of a bed and a fire. The sight of the open country, 
 with the increased altitude we were attaining, was most 
 refreshing to the spirits. Large game abound. We see in 
 the distance buffaloes, elands, hartebeest, gnus, and ele- 
 phants, all very tame, as no one disturbs them. Lions, 
 which always accompany other largo animals, roared about 
 us; but, as it was moonlight, there was no danger. In the 
 evening, while standing on a mass of granite, one began to 
 roar at me, though it was still light. The temperature was 
 pleasant, as the rains, though not universal, had fallen in 
 many places. It was very cloudy, preventing observations. 
 The temperature at 6 a.m. was 70°, at mid-day 90°, in the 
 evening 84°. This is very pleasant on the high lands,\with 
 but little moisture in the air. 
 
 On the 30th wo crossed the river Kalomo, which is about 
 fifty yards broad, and is the only stream that never dnea 
 apon this ridge. The current is rapid, and its course is 
 toward the south, as it joins the Zambesi at some distance 
 below the falls. The Ungucsi and Lekone, with their 
 feeders, flow westward, this river to the south, and all 
 those to which wo are about to come take an easterly di- 
 rection. We were thus at the apex of the ridge, and found 
 
WOONDED BUFFALO ASSISTED. 34J 
 
 that, as water boiled at 202°, our altitude above the loveX 
 of the sea was over 5000 feet. 
 
 We met an elephant on the Kalomo which had no tusks 
 This IS as rare a thing in Africa as it is to find them with 
 asks in Ceylon. As soon as she saw us she made off. It 
 is remarkable to see the fear of man operating oven on this 
 huge beast. Buffaloes abound, and wo see large herds of 
 them feeding in all directions by day. When much di» 
 tuibed by man, they retire into the densest parts of the 
 forest and feed by night only. We secured a fine large 
 bull by crawling close to a herd. When shot, he fell down, 
 and the rest, not seeing their enemy, gazed about, wonder- 
 ing where the danger lay. The others came back to it, 
 and, when wo showed ourselves, much to the amusomert 
 of my companions, they lifted him up with their horns, 
 and, half supporting him in the crowd, bore him away. 
 All these wild animals usually gore a wounded companion 
 and expel him from the herd; even zebras bite and kick 
 an unfortunate or a diseased one. It is intended by this 
 instinct that none but the perfect and healthy ones should 
 propagate the species. In this case they manifested their 
 usual propensity to gore the wounded; but our appearance 
 at that moment caused them to take flight, and this, with 
 the goring being continued a little, gave my men the im- 
 pression that they were helping away their wounded com- 
 panion. He was shot between the fourth and fifth ribs ; 
 the ball passed through both lungs and a rib on the oppo- 
 site side, and then lodged beneath the skin. But, though 
 it was eight ounces in weight, yet he ran off some distance, 
 and was secured only by the people driving him into a pool 
 of water and killing him there with their spears. The 
 herd ran away in the direction of our camp, and then came 
 bounding past us again. We took refuge on a largo ant- 
 hill, and as they rushed by us at full gallop I had a good 
 opportunity of seeing that the leader of a herd of about 
 rixty was an old cow : all the others allowed her a full 
 'lalf-length in their front. On her withers sat about twenty 
 
 29» 
 
842 THE BUPFAIiO-BIRD. 
 
 buffalo-birds, (^Teodor erythrorhynchus, Smith,) which act tie 
 part of guardian spirits to tho animals. When the buffalo 
 is quietly feeding, this bird may be seen hopping on the 
 ground picking up food, or sitting on its back ridding it of 
 the insects with which their skins are sometimes infested 
 The sight of tho bird being much more acute than that of 
 the buffalo, it is soon alarmed by the approach of any dan- 
 ger, and, flying up, the buffaloes instantly raise their heads 
 to discover tho cause which has led to tho sudden flight of 
 their guardian. They sometimes accompany the buffaloes 
 in their flight on the wing; at other times they sit as above 
 described. 
 
 Another African bird — ^namely, the Buphaga Africana — 
 attends the rhinoceros for a similar purpose. It is called 
 "kala" in the language of the Bechuanas. When thoao 
 people wish to express their dependence upon another, 
 they address him as "my rhinoceros," as if they were tho 
 birds. The satellites of a chief go by the same name 
 This bird cannot be said to depend entirely on the insects 
 on that animal, for its hard, hairless skin is a protection 
 against all except a few spotted ticks ; but it seems to bo 
 attached to the beast somewhat as the domestic dog is to 
 man; and, while tho buffalo is alarmed by tho sudden flying 
 up of its sentinel, the rhinoceros, not having keen sight, 
 but an acute ear, is warned by tho cry of its associate, tho 
 Buphaga Africajw,. The rhinoceros feeds by night, and its 
 sentinel is frequently heard in the morning uttering its 
 well-known call as it searches for its bulky companion. 
 One species of this bird, observed in Angola, possesses a bill of 
 R peculiar scoop or stone-forceps form, as if intended only 
 (O tear off insects from the skin; and its claws are as sharp 
 as needles, enabling it to hang on to an animal's ear whil« 
 performing a useful service within it. This sharpness of 
 the claws allows the bird to cling to the nearly-insonsiblo 
 cuticle without irritating the nerves of pain on the true 
 skin, exactly as a burr does to the human hand; but, in the 
 oaso of the Buphaga Africana and erythrorhyncha, ether 
 
LSADERB or HEBDB. 848 
 
 food is partaken of, for we observed flocks of them loosting 
 on the reeds in spots where neither tame nor wild animals 
 were to bo fonnd. 
 
 The most wary animal in a herd is generally the "leader." 
 When it is shot, the others often seem at a loss what to do 
 and stop in a state of bewilderment. I have seen them 
 then attempt to follow each other, and appear quite con^ 
 fused, no one knowing for half a minute or more where to 
 direct the flight. On one occasion I happened to shoot tho 
 loader, a young zebra mare, which at some former time 
 had been bitten on tho hind-leg by a carnivorous animal, 
 and, thereby made unusually wary, had, in consequence, 
 become a leader. If they see either one of their own herd 
 or any other animal taking to flight, wild animals invariably 
 flee. Tho most timid thus naturally loads the rest. It is 
 not any other peculiarity, but simply this provision, which 
 is given them for tha preservation of the race. The great 
 increase of wariness which is soon to occur when the females 
 bring forth their young, causes all the leaders to be at that 
 time females; and there is a probability that the separa- 
 tion of sexes into distinct herds, which is annually observed 
 in many antelopes, arising from the simple fact that the 
 greater caution of the she antelopes is partaken of only by 
 tho young males, and their more frequent flights now have 
 tho effect of leaving tho old males behind. I am inclined 
 to believe this, bocause they are never seen in the act ot 
 expelling the males. 
 
 December 2, 1855. — ^Wo remained near a small hill, called 
 Maundo, whore we began to be frequently invited by the 
 faoney-goide, (^Ouculiis indicator.^ Wishing to ascertain tho 
 truth of tho native assertion that this bird is a deceiver, 
 and by its call sometimes leads to a wild beast and not to 
 honey, I inquired if any of my men had ever been led by 
 this Mendly little bird to any thing else than what its 
 name implies. Only one of tho one hundred and fourteen 
 oould say he had been led to an elephant instead of a hiva 
 1 am quite convinced that the majority of people who 
 
S44 SEBITUANE'BiFOBMEB besidenoe 
 
 oommit themselves to its guidance are led to honey, and te 
 it alone. 
 
 On the 3d wo crossed the river Mozuma, or river of Sila, 
 having travelled through a boautifuUy-undulating pastoral 
 country. To the south, and a little oast of this, stands the 
 hill Taba Cheu, or " White Mountain," from a mass of whit* 
 rock, probably dolomite, on its top. But none of the hills 
 .•»re of any great altitude. 
 
 At the river of Dila we saw the spot where Sebituane 
 lived, and Sekwcbu pointed out the heaps of bones of cattle 
 which the Makololo had boeu obliged to slaughter after 
 performing a march with great herds captured from the 
 Batoka through a patch of the fatal tsetse. When Sebi- 
 tuane saw the symptoms of the poison, ho gave orders to 
 his people to eat the cattle. Ho still had vast numbers ; 
 and when the Matebele, crossing the Zambesi opposite this 
 part, came to attack him, he invited tho Batoka to take 
 repossession of their herds, ho having so many as to bo 
 anablo to guide them in their flight. Tho country was at 
 that time exceedingly rich in cattle, and, besides pasturage, 
 it is all well adapted for the cultivation of native produce. 
 Being on tho eastern slope of tho ridge, it receives more 
 rain than any part of tho westward. Sekwcbu had boon 
 instructed to point out to mo the advantages of this posi- 
 tion for a settlement, as that which all tho Makololo had 
 never ceased to regret. It needed no eulogy from Sek- 
 wcbu; I admired it myself, and tho enjoyment of good 
 health in fine open scenery had an oxhUaratirig effect oc 
 my spirits. Tho groat want was population, tho Batoka 
 having all taken rofugc in the hills. Wo were now in the 
 vicinity of those whom tho Makololo deem rebels, and fell 
 some anxiety as to how wo should bo received. 
 
 On tho 4th wo reached their first village. Eemaining a1 
 a distance of a quarter of a mile, wo sent two men to 
 inform them who w« were and that our purposes were 
 peaceful. Tho head-man came and spoke civilly, but, when 
 Boarly dark tho pnoplo of another village arrived and 
 
FBOPHETIO rSENZT. 84S 
 
 behavod very differently. They began by trying to epoar 
 a young man who had gone for water. Then they ap- 
 proached us, and one came forward howling at the top oi 
 bin voice" in the most hideous manner : his eyes were shot 
 out, his lips covered with foam, and every muscle of his 
 frame quivered. He came near to me, and, having a small 
 battle-axe in his hand, alarmed my men lest he might 
 do violence ; but they were afraid to disobey my previous 
 orders and to follow their own inclination by knocking 
 him on the head. I felt a little alarmed too, but would not 
 show fear before my own people or strangers, and kept a 
 sharp look-out on the little battle-axe. It seemed to me a 
 case of ecstasy or prophetic frenzy voluntarily produced. I 
 felt it would be a sorry way to leave t/Ue world to get 
 my head chopped by a mad savage, though that, perhaps, 
 would be preferable to hydrophobia or delirium tremens. 
 Sekwebu took a spear in his right hand, as if to pierce a 
 bit of leather, but in reality to plunge it into the man if he 
 offered violence to me. After my courage had been sufS- 
 ciently tested, I beckoned with the head to the civil head- 
 man to remove him ; and he did so by drawing him aside. 
 This man protended not to know what he was doing. I 
 would fain have felt his pulse, to ascertain whether tLe 
 violent trembling were not feigned, but had not much 
 inclination to go near the battle-axo again. There was, 
 however, a flow of perspiration, and the excitement con- 
 tinned fully half an hour, then gradually ceased. This 
 paroxysm is the direct opposite of hypnotism, and it ia 
 singular that it has not been tried in Europe as well as 
 clairvoyance. This second batch of visitors took no paini) 
 to conceal their contempt for our small party, saying to 
 each other, in a tone of triumph, "They are quite a god- 
 send !" — literally, " God has apportioned them to us." " They 
 aro lost among the tribes !" " They have wandered in order 
 to be destroyed, and what can they do without shields 
 among so many 1" Some of them asked if there wore no 
 other parties. Sekeletn had ordered my men not to take 
 
3t6 CLOTHING DESPISED 
 
 thoir shields, as in the case of my first company. We 
 were looked upon as unarmed, and an easy prey. We 
 prepared against a night-attack by discharging and re- 
 loading our guns, which were exactly the same in number 
 (five) as on the former occasion, as I allowed my iate com- 
 panions to retain those which I purchased at Loanda. We 
 were not molested; but some of the enemy tried to load ua 
 toward the Bashukulompo, who are considered to bo the 
 fiercest race in this quarter. As wo know our direction to 
 the confluence of the Kafue and Zambesi, we declined their 
 guidance, and the civil head-man of the evening before 
 then came along with us. Crowds of natives hovered 
 round us in the forest ; but ho ran forward and explained, 
 and we were not molested. That night we slept by a little 
 village under a low range of hills, which are called Chiza- 
 mena. The country here is more woody than on the high 
 lands we had left; but the trees are not in general largo. 
 
 When we had passed the outskirting villages which alone 
 consider themselves in a state of war with the Makololo, 
 wo found the Batoka, or Batonga, as they here call them- 
 selves, quite friendly. Great numbers of them came from 
 all the surrounding villages with presents of maize and 
 masuka, and expressed great joy at the first appearance of 
 a white man and harbinger of peace. The women clothe 
 themselves better than the Balonda, but the men go inpuria 
 naturalibus. They walk about without the smallest sense 
 of shame. They have even lost the tradition of the " fig- 
 loaf." I asked a fine, large-bodied old man if ho did not 
 think it would be better to adopt a little covering. He 
 looked with a pitying leer, and laughed with surprise at my 
 thinking him at all indecent : he evidently considered him- 
 self above such weak superstition. I told them that, on 
 my return, I should have my family with me, and no one 
 must come near us in that state. "What shall we put onf 
 wo have no clothing." It was considered a good joke 
 when I told them that, if they had nothing else, they must 
 put on a boncb of ^ass. 
 
STRANGE MODE OF SALUTATION. 347 
 
 The farther we advanced the more we fbund the country 
 swarming with inhabitants. Groat numbers came to see 
 the white man, — a sight they had never behold before. Thoy 
 always brought presents of maize and masuka. Theii 
 mode ol salutation is quite singular. They throw them 
 selves on their backs on the ground, and, rolling from sid 
 to side, slap the outside of their thighs as expressions of 
 thankfulness and welcome, uttering tho words "Kina 
 bomba." This method of salutation was to mo very dis- 
 agreeable, and I never could got reconciled to it. I called 
 out, " Stop, stop ! I don't want that ;" but thoy, imagining 
 [ was dissatisfied, only tumbled about more furiously and 
 slapped their thighs with greater vigor. The mon being 
 totally unclothed, this performance imparted to my mind 
 a painful sense of their extreme degradation. My own 
 Batoka were much more degraded than tho Barotso, and 
 more reckless. "We had to keep a strict watch, so as not 
 to be involved by their thieving from the inhabitants, in 
 whose country and power we were. "Wo had also to watch 
 tho use they made of their tongues, for some within hear- 
 ing of the villagers would say, " I broke all the pots of 
 that village," or "I killed a man there." Thoy were 
 eager to recount their soldier-deeds when they were in 
 company with tho Makololo in former times as a conquer- 
 ing army. They were thus placing us in danger by thoir 
 remarks. I called them together, and spoke to them about 
 their folly, and gave them a pretty plain intimation that I 
 meant to insist upon as complete subordination as I had 
 secured in my former journey, as being necessary for the 
 safety of the party. Happily, it never was needful to 
 resort to any other measure for their obedience, as they al 
 believed that I would enforce it. 
 
 December 6. — "We passed the night near a series of villages, 
 Before we came to a stand under our tree, a man cam« 
 ranning to us with hands and arms firmly bound with 
 coids behind his back, entreating me to release him 
 When I had dismounted, the head-man of the Tjllag* 
 
348 IMTEEVIIW WITH MONZE 
 
 advanced, and I inquired the prisoner')' offence. He stated 
 that he had come from the Bashukulompo as a fugitive, and 
 ho had given him a wife and garden and a supply of seed; 
 but, on refusing a demand for more, the prisoner had 
 Ihreatoned to kill him, and had been seen the night before 
 skulking about the village, apparently with that intention. 
 [ declined interceding unless he would confess to his father- 
 in-law, and promise amendment. Ho at first refused to 
 promise to abstain from violence, but afterward agreed. 
 The father-in-law then said that he would take him to the 
 village and release him ; but the prisoner cried out, bitterly, 
 " Ho will kill me there ! don't leave me, white man." I 
 ordered a knife, and one of the villagers released him on 
 the spot. His arms wcro cut by the cords, and he was 
 quite lame from the blows h.o had received. 
 
 We spent Sunday, the 10th, at Monze's village, who is 
 considered the chief of all the Batoka we have seen. He 
 lives near the hill Kisekisc, whence we have a view of at 
 least thirty miles of open undulating country, covered with 
 short grass and having but few trees. Those open lawns 
 would in any other land, as well as this, bo termed pas- 
 toral; but the people have no cattle, and only a few goats 
 and fowls. 
 
 The chief Monzo came to us on Sunday morning, ^vrapped 
 in a largo cloth, and rolled himself about in the dust, 
 screaming "Kina bomba," as they all do. The sight of 
 great naked men wallowing on the ground, though intended 
 to do me honor, was always very painful : it made me feol 
 thankful that my lot had boon cast in such different cir- 
 cumstances from that of so many of my fellow-men. One 
 of his wives accompanied him; she would have been comely 
 if her teeth had been spared : she had a little battle-axe in 
 her hand, and helped her husband to scream. She wai 
 much excited, for she had never seen a whito man before 
 We rather liked Monze, for ho soon felt at homo among aSj 
 and kept up conversation during much of the day. One 
 head-man of a village after another arrived, and each oi 
 
raiENDLT rBELINQB TOWARD EDR0PEAN8. 849 
 
 thom supplied us liberally with maize, groundnuts, and 
 com. Monze gave us a goat and a fowl, and appeared 
 higlily satisfied with a present of some handkcrchioft I had 
 got in my supplies left at the island. Being of printed 
 cotton, they excited great admiration; and, when I put 
 gaudy-colored one as a shawl about his child, ho said tha 
 he would send for all his people to make a dance about it. 
 In telling them that my object was to open up a path 
 whereby they might, by getting merchandise for ivory, 
 avoid the guilt of selling their children, I asked Monze, 
 with about one hundred and fifty of his men, if they would 
 like a white man to live among them and teach them. AU 
 expressed high satisfaction at the prospect of the white 
 man and his path: they would protect both him and his 
 property. I asked the question, because it would bo of 
 great importance to have stations in this healthy region, 
 whither agents oppressed by sickness might retire, and 
 which would serve, moreover, as part of a chain of com- 
 munication between the interior and the coast. The 
 answer does not mean much more than what I know, by 
 other means, to bo the case, — that a white man of good sense 
 would bo welcome and safe in all these parts. By upright- 
 ness, and laying himself out for the good of the people, ho 
 would be known all over the country as a benefactor of the 
 race. Kone desire Christian instruction, for of it they 
 have no idea. But the people are now humbled by the 
 scourgings they have received, and seem to be in a favor- 
 able state for the reception of the gospel. The gradual 
 restoration of their former prosperity in cattle, simul 
 taneously with instruction, would operate beneficially upon 
 their minds. The language is a dialect of the other negn 
 languages in the great valley; and, as many of the Batok? 
 living under the Makololo understand both it and the 
 Sichuana, missionaries could soon acquire it through that 
 medium. 
 
 Monzo had never been visited by any white man, but 
 had seen black native traders, who, ho said, came for ivory 
 
350 QRATITTIDB 01 EELEASED CAPTIVE. 
 
 not for slaves. Ho had heard of white men passing far to 
 the oast of him to Cazombo, — ^referring, no doubt, to Peroira, 
 Lacerda, and others, who have visited that chief. 
 .1 Monze came on Monday morning, and^ on parting, pre- 
 sented us with a piece of a buffalo which had been killed 
 the day before by lions. Wo crossed the rivulet Makoe, 
 which runs westward into tho Kafuo, and went northward 
 in order to visit Semalembne, an influential chief there 
 We slept at tho village of Monzo's sister, who also passes 
 by the same name. Both he and his sister are feminine in 
 their appearance, but disfigured by the foolish custom of 
 knocking out tho upper front teeth. 
 
 It is not often that jail-birds turn out well ; but the first 
 person who appeared to welcome us at tho village of 
 Monze's sister was the prisoner wo had released in the 
 way. Ho came with a handsome present of corn and 
 meal, and, after praising our kindness to tho villagers who 
 had assembled around us, asked them, "What do you stand 
 grazing at? Don't you know that they have mouths like 
 other people 1" He then set off and brought largo bundles 
 of grass and wood for our comfort, and a pot to cook out 
 food in. 
 
 December 12. — Tho morning presented tho appearance of 
 a continuous rain from tho north, — the first time we had 
 seen it set in from that quarter in such a southern latitude. 
 In tho Bcchuana country, continuous rains are always from 
 the northeast or oast, while in Londa and Angola they are 
 from the north. At Pungo Andongo, for instance, the 
 (vhitewash is all removed from tho north side of the houses. 
 It cleared up, however, about uid-day, and Monze's sister 
 conducted us a mile or two upon the road. On partirg, 
 she said that she had forwarded orders to a distant village 
 to send food to the point where wo should sleep. In ex- 
 pressing her joy at the prospect of living in peace, she said 
 it would be so pleasant " to sleep without dreaming of any 
 one pursuing them with a spear." 
 
 In our front wc had ranges of hills called Cbamai, covered 
 
ETFBOI Of BAINS. 85] 
 
 With trees. We crossed the river Nackachinta, flowing 
 westward into the Kafue, and then passed over ridges of 
 rocks of the same mica schist which we found so abundant 
 in Grolungo Alto : here they were surmounted by reddish 
 porphyry and finely-laminated feldspathic grit with trap. 
 
 As we passed along, the people continued to supply us 
 with food in groat abundance. They had by some means 
 or other got a knowledge that I carried medicine, and, 
 somewhat to the disgust of my men, who wished to keep 
 it aU to themselves, brought their sick children for cure. 
 Some of them I found had hooping-cough, which iu one of 
 the few epidemics that range through this country. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXVIII. 
 
 DB. UVINQSTONE DESCENDS THE ZAMBESI RIVER Tt ITS CON- 
 FLUENCE WITH THE LOANGWA. 
 
 ISth. — The country is becoming very beautiful, And fur- 
 rowed by deep valleys; the underlying rocks, being igneous, 
 have yielded fertile soil. There is groat abundance of large 
 game. The buffaloes select open spots, and often eminences, 
 as standing-places through the day. We crossed the Mbai, 
 and found in its bed rocks of pink marble. Some little 
 hills near it are capped by marble of beautiful whiteness, 
 the underlying r^ck being igneous. Violent showers occur 
 frequently on the hills, and cause such sudden sweeping floods 
 in these rivulets that five of our men, who had gone to the 
 other side for firewood, were obliged to swim back. The 
 temperature of the air is lowered considerably by the daily 
 rains. Several times the thermometer at sunrise has been 
 as low as 68°, and 74° at sunset. Generally, however, it 
 stood »t from 72° to 74° at sunrise, 90° to 96° at mid-day, and 
 
B52 AN ELEPHANT SHOT. 
 
 80° to 84° at sunset. The sensation, however, as beforo 
 remarked, was not disagreeable. 
 
 lith. — ^We entered a most boautifiil valley, abounding in 
 large game. Finding a buffalo lying down, I went to 
 secure him for our food. Three balls did not kill him, and, 
 06 ho turned round as if for a charge, we ran for the sheltoi 
 of some rocks. Before wo gained them, we found that 
 throe elephants, probably attracted by the strange noise, 
 had cut off our retreat on that side : they, however, turned 
 short off, and allowed us to gain the rocks. Wo then saw 
 that the buffalo was moving off quite briskly, and, in order 
 not to be entirely balked, I tried a long shot at the last of 
 the elephants, and, to the great joy of my people, broke hia 
 fore-leg. The young men soon brought him to a stand, 
 and one shot in the brain despatched him. I was right 
 glad to see the joy manifested at such an abundaiit supply 
 of meat. 
 
 On the following day, while my men were cutting up 
 the elephant, groat numbers of the villagers came to enjoy 
 the feast. "We were on the side of a fine green valley, 
 studded here and there with trees and cut by numerous 
 rivulets. I had retired from the noise, to take an observa- 
 tion among some rocks of laminated grit, when I beheld 
 an elephant and her calf at the end of the valley, about 
 two miles distant. The calf was rolling in the mud, and 
 the dam was standing fanning herself with her great ears. 
 As I looked at them through my glass, I saw a long string 
 of my own men appearing on the other side of them, and 
 Sekwebu came and told me that these men had gone of^ 
 saying, " Our fath or will see to-day what sort of men he 
 has got." I then went higher up the side of the valley, in 
 order to have a distinct view of their mode of hunting. 
 The goodly beast, totally unconscious of the approach of 
 an enemy, stood for some time suckling her young one, 
 which seemed about two years old : they then wont into a 
 pit containing mud, and smeared themselves all over with 
 it, tho little one frisking about his dam, flapping his ean 
 
a, 
 
 tq set 
 
 SI 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 e 
 
 
 -^1 - 
 
 
 V 
 
 s 
 
 «5 
 
 
KLEPHANT-HDNTINO. 35(j 
 
 and tossing his trunk incessantly, in elephantine fashion. 
 She kept flapping her ears and wagging her tail, as if in 
 the height of enjoyment. Then began the piping of hej 
 eneiaiies, which was performed by blowing into a tube, oi 
 thp hands closed together, as boys do into a key. Thoy 
 oa.]} out to attract the animal's attention : — 
 
 " cliief I chief! we hare come to kill you. 
 
 chief 1 chief! many more will die besides you," &a. 
 " The gods haye siud it," &o. &c. 
 
 Both animals expanded their cars and listened, then left 
 their bath as the cro'ivd rushed toward them. The little 
 one ran forward low aid the end of the valley, rjut, seeing 
 the men there, returned to his dam. She placed herself on 
 the danger-side of her calf, and passed her proDoscis over it 
 again and again, as if to assure it of safety. She frequently 
 looked back to the men, who kept up an incessant shouting, 
 singing, and piping; then looked at her young one and 
 ran after it, sometimes sideways, as if her feelings were 
 divided between anxiety to protect her offspring and desire 
 to revenge the temerity of her persecutors. The men kept 
 about a hundred yards in her rear, and some that distance 
 from her flanks, and continued thus until she was obliged 
 to cross a rivulet. The time spent in descending and get- 
 ting up the opposite bank allowed of their coming up to 
 the edge and discharging their spears at about twenty 
 yards' distance. After the first discharge she appeared with 
 her sides red with blood, and, beginning to floe for her own 
 life, seemed to think no more of her young. I had pre- 
 viously sent ofi" Sekwebu with orders to spare the calf. It 
 ran very fast, but neither young nor old ever enter into a 
 gallop : their quickest pace is only a sharp walk. Before 
 Sekwebu could reach them, the calf had taken refuge in 
 the water, and was killed. The pace of the dam gradually 
 became slower. She turned with a shriek of rage, and 
 made a furious charge back among the men. They 
 vanished at right angles to her course, or sideways, and, 
 OS she ran straight on, she went through the whole party 
 
856 ELEPHANT-HUNTINO. 
 
 but came uear no one except a man who wore a piece of 
 cloth on his shouldors. Bright clothing is always dangerouB 
 in these cases. She charged three or four times, and, ex- 
 cept in the first instance, never went farther than one 
 hrmdred yards. She often stood after she had crossed a 
 rivulet, and faced the men, though she received fresb 
 spears. It was by this process of spearing and loss of 
 blood that she was kUled; for at last, making a short 
 charge, she staggered round and sank down dead in a 
 kneeling posture. I did not see the whole hunt, having 
 been tempted away by both sun and moon appearing 
 anclouded. I turned from the spectacle of the destruction 
 of noble animals, which might be made so useful in Africa, 
 with a feeling of sickness; and it was not relieved by the 
 recollection that the ivory was mine, though that was th3 
 case. I regretted to see them killcu, and more especiaUj 
 the young one, the meat not being at all necessary at that 
 time ; but it is right to add that I did not feel sick when 
 my own blood was up the day before. We ought, perhaps, 
 to judge those deeds more leniently in which wo ourselves 
 have no temptation to engage. Had I not been previously 
 guilty of doing the very same thing, I might have prided 
 myself on superior humanity when I experienced th« 
 aausea in viewing my men kill these two. 
 
 Passing the rivulet Losito, and through the ranges ol 
 hills, we reached the residence of Semalembue on the 18th. 
 His village is situated at the bottom of ranges through 
 which the Kafue finds a passage, and close to the bank 
 of that river. The Kafue, sometimes called Kahowhe or 
 Bashukulompo Elver, is upward of two hundred yards wide 
 here, and full of hippopoiami, the young of which may bo 
 seen perched on the necks of their dams. At this point we 
 had reached about the same level as Linyanti. 
 
 Semalembue pp-id us a visit soon after our arrival, and 
 said that he had often heard of mo. and, now that he had 
 the pleasure of seeing mo, ho fearca. that I should sleep the 
 first night at his village hungry. This was considered the 
 
BiSMALEMBUG AND HIS PEOPLE. 35^ 
 
 bandsome way of introducing a present, lor bo then handeo 
 five or MX baskets of meal and mabso, and an enormous one 
 of groundnuts. Next morning ho gave me about twenty 
 baskets moro of meal. I could make but a poor return for 
 his kinaness; but he accepted my apologies politely, saying 
 ttat ho knew there were no goods in the country from 
 which I had come, and, in professing groat joy at the 
 words of peace I spoke, he said, " Now I shall cultivate 
 largely, in the hope of eating and sleeping in peace." It 
 is noticeable that all whom wo have yet met eagerly caught 
 up tho idea of living in peace as the probable effect of the 
 gospel. They require no explanation of the existence of 
 the Deity. Sekwebu makes use of the term " Eoza," and 
 they appear to understand at once. Like negroes in 
 general, they have a strong tendency to worship; and 1 
 heard that Semalembuo gets a good deal of ivory from the 
 Burrounding tribes on pretence of having some supernatural 
 power. He transmits this to some other chiefs on the 
 Zambesi, and receives in return English cotton goods which 
 come from Mozambique by Babisa traders. My men here 
 began to sell their beads and other ornaments for cotton 
 cloth. Semalembue was accompanied by about forty peo- 
 ple, all large men. They have much wool on their heads, 
 which is sometimes drawn all together up to the crown 
 and tied there in a large tapering bunch. Tho forehead 
 and round by the ears is shaven close to the base of this 
 tuft. Others draw out the hair on one side and twist it 
 into little strings. Tho rest is taken over and hangs above 
 the ear, which gives the appearance of having a cap cocked 
 jauntily on tho side of the head. 
 
 The mode of salutation is by clapping the hands. Varioua 
 parties of women came from tho surrounding villages to 
 eee tho white man, but all seemed very much afraid. Their 
 fear, which I seldom could allay, made them, when ad- 
 dressed, clap their hands with increasing vigor. Sekwebu 
 was the only one of the Makololo who know this part of 
 the oountry; and this was the rogion which to his min^ 
 
35S THE kafdt;. 
 
 was best adapted for the residence of a tribe. The natlTM 
 generally have a good idea of the nature of the soil and 
 pastiirago, and Sekwcbu expatiated with great eloquence on 
 the capabilities of this part for supplying the wants of the 
 Miikololo. There is certainly abundance of room at pro 
 sent in the country for thousands and thousands more d 
 population. 
 
 Wo passed near the Losito, a former encampment of 
 the Matebele, with whom Sekwcbu had lived. At the 
 sight of the bones of the oxen they had devoured, and the 
 spot where savage dances had taken place, though aU de- 
 serted now, the poor fellow burst out into a wild Matebele 
 Bong. Ho pointed out also a district, about two days and 
 a half west of Semalembue, where Sebituane had formerly 
 dwelt. There is a liot fountain on the hills' there named 
 " Nakalombo," which may be seen at a distance emitting 
 steam. ' ' There," said Sekwebu, ' ' had your Molekano [Sebi- 
 tuane] been alive, he would have brought you to live with 
 him. You would be on the bank of the river ; and, by 
 taking canoes, you would at once sail down to the Zambesi 
 and visit the white people at the sea." 
 
 The Kafue enters a narrow gorge close by the village of 
 Semalembue : as the hiU on the north is called Bolcngwe, 
 I apply that name to the gorge, (lat. 15" 48' 19" S., long. 28° 
 22' B.) Semalembue said that ho ought to see us over the 
 river; so he accompanied us to a pass about a mile south of 
 his village, and when we entered among the hills wo found 
 the ford of the Kafue. On parting with Semalembue 1 
 put on him a shirt, and ho went away, with it apparently 
 much delighted. 
 
 The ford was at least 250 yards broad, but rocky and 
 ihallow. After crossing it in a canoe, we went along the 
 left bank, and wore completely shut in by high hills. 
 
 Semalembue intended that wo should go a little to the 
 northeast, and pass through the people called Babimpe, and 
 we saw some of that people, who invited us to come that 
 way on account of its being smoother; but, feeling anziOM 
 
RBAUTIJDI, SOENEKT. 359 
 
 to got back to tho Zambesi again, wo decided to cross the 
 hills toward its conflaence with the Kafae. Tho distance, 
 which in a straight Imo is bat small, occnpiod three days. 
 Tho precipitous nature of tho sides of this mass of hills 
 knocked up tho oxon and forced us to slaughter two, one 
 of which — a very large one, and ornamented with upward 
 of thirty pieces of its own skin detached and hanging 
 down — Sekoletu had wished us to take to the white people 
 as a specimen of his cattle. Wo saw many elephants among 
 tho hiUs, and my men ran off and killed three. When we 
 came to tho top of tho outer range of the hills, wo had a 
 glorious view. At a short distance below us wo saw tho 
 ELafue, wending away over a forost-clad plain to the con- 
 fluence, and on the other side of tho Zambesi, boyond that, 
 lay a long range of dark hills. A line of fleecy clouds 
 appeared lying along tho course of that river at their base. 
 The plain below us, at the left of the Kafuo, had more largo 
 game on it than anywhere else I had seen in Africa. 
 Hundreds of buffaloes and zebras grazed on tho open spaces, 
 and there stood lordly elephants feeding majestically, 
 nothing moving apparently but tho proboscis. I wished 
 that I had been able to take a photograph of a scone so 
 seldom l^eheld, and which is destined, as gunp \ncroaso, to 
 pass away from earth. When wo descended, we found all 
 the animals remarkably tame. Tho elephants stood beneath 
 tho trees, fanning themselves with their largo oars, as if 
 they did not see us at 200 or 300 yards' distance. The 
 number of animals was quite astonishing, and made ma 
 think that hero I could realize an imago of that time when 
 Megatheria fed undisturbed in tho primeval forests. 
 
 We tried to leave one morning, out tho rain, coming on 
 afresh, brought us to a stand, and after waiting an hour, 
 wet to tho skin, wo were fain to retrace our steps to oui 
 sheds. These rains wero from tho east, and tho clouda 
 anfht be seen on tho hills exactly as the " Table-cloth" on 
 f ablo Mountain. This was the first wetting wo had got 
 dince we left Seshoke, for I had gained some experience is 
 
360 IMPROVED HEALTH : THE EEA80N 
 
 travolling. In Londa we braved the rain, and, as 1 despisod 
 being carried in our frequent passage through running 
 water. I was pretty constantly drenched; but now, when 
 wo saw a storm coming, we invariably halted. Tlio men 
 soon pulled grass sufficient to make a little shelter foi 
 tliemsolvcs by placing it on a bush, and, having got my 
 » amp-stool and umbrella, with a little grass under my foot, 
 1 kept myself perfectly dry. Wo also lighted largo fires 
 and the men were not chilled by streams of water running 
 down their persons and abstracting the heat, as thoy would 
 have been had they been exposed to the rain. When it 
 was over they warmed themselves by the fires, and wc 
 travelled on comfortably. The effect of this care was that 
 wo had much less sickness than with a smaller party in 
 journeying to Loanda. Another improvement made from 
 my experience was avoiding an entire change of diet. In 
 going to Loanda I took little or no European food, in order 
 not to burden my men and make them lose spirit, but 
 trusted entirely to what might be got by the gun and the 
 liberality of tlio Balonda ; but on this journey I took some 
 flour which liad been left in the wagon, with sorno got on 
 the island, and baked my own bread all the way in an ex- 
 temporaneous oven made by an inverted pot. "W th those 
 precautions, aided, no doubt, by the greater healthinoaa 
 of the district over which wo passed, I enjoyed perfect 
 health. 
 
 When wo loft the Chipongo on tlio 30th, we passed among 
 the range of hills on our loft, which are composed of mica 
 and clay slalo. At the bottom wo found a forest of large 
 sll)cified trees, all lying as if tlio elevation of the range had 
 made them fall away from it and toward the river. The 
 tiumbers of large game wore quiio astonishing. I never 
 saw elephants so tamo as those near the Cliiponga : they 
 stood close to our path without being tho least afraid. 
 This is different from thoir conduct where they have boon 
 accustomed to guns, for there they take alarm at tho dis- 
 tance of a mile, and begin to run if a shot is fired even mt 
 
OnAttOE or AN ELEPHANT. 8(}] 
 
 a longer distanco. My men killod another hero, and r»- 
 warded the villagers of the Chiponga for their liberality in 
 meal by loading them with flesh. Wo spent a night at a 
 baobab, which was hollow and would hold twenty men 
 inside. It had been used as a lodging-house by the Babisa. 
 Ab we approached nearer the Zambesi, the country became 
 covered with broad-leaved bushes, pretty thickly planted, 
 and we had several times to shout to elephants to got out 
 of our way. At an open space, a herd of buffaloes carao 
 trotting up to look at our oxen ; and it was only by shooting 
 one that 1 made them retreat. The meat is very mueli like 
 that of an ox, and this one was very fine. The only dangta- 
 wo actually encountered was from a female elephant, vdih 
 throe young ones of different sizes. Charging through the 
 centre of our extended line, and causing the men to throw 
 down their burdens in a groat hurry, she received a spear 
 for her temerity. I never saw an elephant with more 
 than one calf before. ^Vo knew that wo were near our 
 Zambesi again, even before the great river burst upon our 
 sight, by the numbers of waterfowl wo met. I killed 
 four geese with two shots, and, had I followed the wishes 
 of my men, could have secured a moal of waterfowl for 
 thp whole party. I never saw a river with so much animal 
 life around and in it, and, as the Harotse say, " Its fish and 
 fowl are always fat." When oui' eyes were gladdened by a 
 view of its goodly broad waters, wo (bund it very much 
 larger than it is even above the falls. One might try to 
 make his voice heard across it in vain, Its flow was more 
 rapid than near Seshoke, being often four and a half miloE 
 an hour; and, what I never saw before, the water was dis- 
 colored and of a deep brownish red. In the great valley 
 the Leeambyo never becomes of this color. The adjacent 
 oountry, so far north as is known, is all levcJ, and the soil, 
 being generally covered with dense herbage, is not abraded" 
 but on the eastern ridge the case is different : the grass if 
 short, and, the elevation being great, the soil is washed 
 du,'\Ti by the streams, and hence the discoloration which 
 
 31 
 
362 THE ZAMBESI — ISLAND OF MENTE. 
 
 we new view. Tho samo thing was observed on the western 
 ridge. We never saw discoloration tUl wo reached the 
 Quango : that obtained its matter from the western slope 
 of tho western ridge, just as this part of the Zambesi 
 receives its soil from tho eastern slo2)o of the eastern ridge. 
 It carried a considerable quantity of wreck of reeds, sticks, 
 and trees. We struck upon tho river about eight miles oast 
 of the confluence Tvith the Kafuo, and thereby missed a 
 sight of that interesting point. The cloudiness of tho 
 weather was such that but few observations could be made 
 for determining our position ; so, pursuing our course, we 
 went down the left bank, and came opposite the island of 
 Monye makaba. The Zambesi contains numerous islands : 
 this was about a mile and a half or two miles long and up- 
 ward of a quarter of a mile broad. Besides human popu- 
 lation, it has a herd of buffaloes that never leave it. In 
 the distance they seemed to bo upward of sixty. The 
 human and brute inhabitants understand each other; for 
 when the former tliink they ought to avenge tho liberties 
 committed on their gardens, the leaders of the latter come 
 out boldly to give battle. They told us that tho only time 
 in which they can thin them is when the river is full and 
 part of tho island flooded. They then attack them from 
 their canoes. The comparatively small space to which 
 they have confined themselves shows how luxuriant tho 
 vegetation of this region is; for were they in want of more 
 pasture, as buffaloes can swim well, and the distance from 
 this bank to the island is not much more than 200 yards, 
 they might easily remove hither. The opposite bank' is 
 much more distant. 
 
 Eanges of hills appear now to run parallel with the 
 Zambesi, and are about fifteen miles apart. Those on tho 
 north approacb nearest to the river. The inhabitants en 
 that side are the Batonga, those on the south bank are 
 the Banyai. The hills abound in buffaloes, and elephants 
 are numerous; and many are killed by the people on 
 both banks. They erect stages on high trees overhang' 
 
SEVIOES FOR KILLING GAME. 363 
 
 tng tho paths by which the elephants come, and then use 
 a large spear -with a handle nearly as thick as a man's 
 wrist, and four or five feet long. When tho animal 
 comes beneath they throw tho spear, and if it enters be- 
 tween the ribs above, as the blade is at least twenty inches 
 long by two broad, the motion of the handle, as it is aided 
 by knocking against the trees, makes frightful gashes 
 within and soon causes death. They kill them also by 
 moans of a spear inserted in a beam of wood, which being 
 suspended on a branch of a tree by a cord attached to a 
 latch fastened in tho path and intended to be struck by 
 the animal's foot, loads to tho fall of tho beam, and, tho 
 spear being poisoned, causes death in a few hours. 
 
 Wo were detained by continuous rains several days at 
 this island. The clouds rested upon the tops of the hiUs as 
 they came from the eastward, and then poured down plen- 
 teous showers on the valleys below. As soon as wo could 
 move, Tomba Nyama, tho head-man of the island, volun- 
 teered tho loan of a canoe to cross a small river, called 
 the Chongwo, which wo found to bo about fifty or sixty 
 yards broad and flooded. All this part of the country was 
 well known to Sekwebu; and ho informed ns that, when 
 he passed through it as a boy, the inhabitants possessed 
 abundance of cattle and there wero no tsetse. Tho exist- 
 ence of the insect now shows that it may return in com- 
 pany with tho larger game. Tho vegetation along tlio 
 bank was exceedingly rank, and tho bushes so tangled ihat 
 it was diflcult to get on. Tho paths had been made by llm 
 wild animals alone, for tho general pathway of tho jicoplo 
 is tho river, in their canoes. We usually followed tho foot- 
 paths of the game; and of these there was no lack, iiuf 
 faloos, zebras, pallahs, and waterbucks abound ; and there 
 is also a great abundance of wild pigs, koodoos, and the 
 black antelopo. Wo got one buffalo as he was rolling him- 
 self in a pool of mud. He had a large piece of skin torn 
 out of his flank, it was believed, by an alligator. 
 
 Wo were struck by th3 fact that, as soon as we oaxa« 
 
364 AN AI.BINO MUKDERED BY HIS MUTHER. 
 
 between the ranges of hills which flank the Zambesi, the 
 rains felt warm. At sunrise the thermometer stood at from 
 82° to 86° ; at mid-day in the coolest shade, namely, in my 
 little tent under a shady tree, at 96° to 98° ; and at sunset 
 it is 86°. This is diiFerent from any thing wo experienced 
 in the interior; for these rains always bring down the mer- 
 cury to 72° or even 68°. There, too, we found a small, 
 black coleopterous insect, which stung like the mosquito 
 but injected less poison : it puts us in mind of that insect, 
 which does not exist in the high lands we had left. 
 
 January 6, 1856. — Each village wo passed furnished us 
 with a couple of men to take us on to the next. They 
 wore useful in showing us the parts least covered with 
 jungle. When wo came near a village, we saw men, 
 women, and children employed in weeding their gardens, 
 they being great agriculturists. Most of the men are 
 muscular, and have large ploughman-hands. Their color 
 is the same admixture — ^from very dark to light olive — 
 that wo saw in Londa. Though all have thick lips and 
 flat noses, only the more degraded of the population pos- 
 sess the ugly negro physiognomy. They mark thomselves 
 by a lino of little raised cicatrices, each of which is a quar- 
 ter of an inch long : thoy extend from the tip of the nose 
 to the root of the hair on the forehead. It is remarkable 
 that I never met with an albino in crossing Africa, 
 though, from accounts published by the Portugues«), 1 was 
 led to expect that they were held in favor as doctors by 
 certain chiefs. I saw several in the south : one at Kuru 
 man is a full-grown woman, and a man having this pecu- 
 liarity of skin was met with in the colony. Their bodiefl 
 are always blistered on exposure to the sun, as the skin 
 IB more tender than that of the blacks. The Ki^mman 
 woman lived some time at Kolobeng, and generally had on 
 her bosom and shoulders the remains of large blisters. 
 She was most anxious to be made black; but nitrate of 
 •ilver, taken internally, did not produce its usual effect 
 During the time I resided at Mabotsa, a woman came to 
 
"moLo." »tj5 
 
 the station with a fine boy, an albino. The father had 
 ordered her to throw him away; but she clung to hei 
 offspring for many years. Ho was remarkably intelligent 
 for his age. The pupil of the eye was of a pink coloi, and 
 the eye itself was unsteady in vision. The hair, or rathei 
 wool, was yellow, and the features were those common 
 among the Bechuanas. After I left the place, the moihoi 
 is said to have become tired of living apart from the father, 
 who refused to have her while she retained the son. She 
 took him out one day and killed him close to the village of 
 Mabotsa, and nothing was done to her by the authorities. 
 EVom having met with no albinos in Londa, 1 suspect they 
 are there also put to death. Wo saw one dwarf only in 
 Londa, and brands on him showed ho hf.d once been » 
 slave; and there is one dwarf woman at Linyanti. The 
 general absence of deformed persons is partly owing to 
 their destruction in infancy, and partly to the mode of life 
 being a natural one so far as ventilation and food are con- 
 cerned. They use but few unwholesome mixtures as con- 
 diments, and, though their undress exposes them to the 
 vicissitudes of the temperature, it does not harbor vomitos. 
 It was observed that, when smallpox and measles visiiud 
 the country, they wore most severe on the half-castes who 
 were clothed. In several tribes, a child which is said to 
 "tlola" (transgress) is put to death. "Tlolo," or trans- 
 gression, is ascribed to several curious cases. A child who 
 cut the upper front teeth before the under was always put 
 to death among the Eakaa, and, I believe, also among the 
 Bakwains. In some tribes, a case of twins renders one of 
 them liable to death; and an ox which, while lying in the 
 Den, beats the ground with its tail, is treated in the same 
 way. It is thought to be calling death to visit the tribe. 
 When I was coming through Londa, my men carried a 
 great number of fowls, of a larger breed than any they 
 had at home. If one crowed before midnight, it had been 
 guilty of " tlolo," and was killed. The men often carried 
 
 tJiem sitting on their gans, and, if one began to orow in » 
 
 31» 
 
366 IDEA OF FJSMAIiS BEAUTT. 
 
 forest, the owner would give it a boating, by way of tea«>il. 
 ing it not to be guilty of crowing at unseasonable hours. 
 
 The women hero are in the habit of piercing the uppez 
 Up and gradually enlarging the orifice until they can insert 
 ft shoU. The lip then appears drawn out beyond the per- 
 pendicular of the nose, and gives them a most ungainly 
 aspect. Sekwobu remarked, " These women want to make 
 thc-r mouths like those of ducks;" and, indeed, it does 
 appear as if they had the idea that female beauty of Up 
 had been attained by the Ornithorhynchus paradoxus alone. 
 This custom prevails throughout the country of the Maravi, 
 and no one could see it without confessing that fashion had 
 never led women to a freak more mad. "Wo had rains now 
 every day, and considerable cloudiness ; but the sun often 
 burst through with sCorching intensity. All call out against 
 it then, saying, " Oh, the sun •! that is rain again." It is 
 worth noticing that my companions never complained of 
 the heat while on the highlands ; but when we descended 
 into the lowlands of Angola,. and here also, they began to 
 fret on account of it. I myself folt an oppressive stcami- 
 ness in the atmosphere which I had not experienced on 
 the higher lands. 
 
 As the game was abundant and my party very largo, 1 
 had still to supply their wants with the gun. "We slaugn- 
 tored the oxen only when unsuccessful in hunting. Wo 
 always entered into friendly relations with the head-men 
 of the different villages, and they presented grain and other 
 food freely. One man gave a basinful of rice, — the first 
 we met with in the country. It is never seen in the in- 
 terior. Ho said ho knew it was " white man's corn," and, 
 when I wished to buy some more, he asked mo to give him 
 A slave. This was the first symptom of the slavo--trado on 
 this side of the country. The last of these friendly head 
 men was named Mobala ; and, having passed him in peace, 
 we had no anticipation of any thing else ; but after a few 
 hours we reached Solole or Chilolo, and found that ho not 
 only considered us enemies, but had actually sent an ex- 
 
SELOLE'B HOSTILITT. 30T 
 
 press to ra\80 tho tribe of Mburuma against us. AH the 
 womon (. f Selolo had fled, and the few people wo mot ex- 
 hibited Ligns of terror. An armed party had como from 
 Ifburnma in obedience to tho call; but tho head-man of 
 the company, being Mburuma's brother, suspecting that it 
 was a hoax, came to our encampment and told us the whola 
 When wo explained our objects, he told us that Mburuma, he 
 had no doubt, would receive us well. The reason why Se- 
 lolo acted in this foolish manner wo afterward found to be 
 this: an Italian named Simoens,and nicknamed Siriatomba, 
 (don't eat tobacco,) had married the daughter of a chief 
 called Sekokole, living north of Tote. Ho armed a party 
 of fifty slaves with guns, and, ascending tho river in canoes 
 some distance beyond the island Meya makaba, attacked 
 several inhabited islands beyond, securing a large number 
 of prisoners and much ivory. On his return, the different 
 chiefs — at the instigation of his father-in-law, who also did 
 not wish him to set up as chief — united, attacked and dis- 
 persed tho party of Simoens, and killed him while trying 
 to escape on foot. Sololo imagined that I was anotho? 
 Italian, or, as ho expressed it, " Siriatomba risen from the 
 dead." In his message to Mburuma he even said that 
 Mobala, and all thevillages beyond, wero utterly destroyed 
 by our fire-arms; but tho sight of Mobala himself, who had 
 come to tho village of Selolo, led tho brother of Mburuma 
 to see at once that it was all a hoax. But for this the 
 foolish fellow Selolo might have given us trouble. 
 
 We saw many of tho liberated captives of this Italian 
 among the villages here, and Sekwcbu found them to be 
 Matobele. The brother of Mburuma had a gun, which was 
 «he first wo had seen in coming eastward. Before wo 
 reached Mburuma, my men went to attack a troop of ele- 
 phants, as thoy wero much in need of meat. Whon tho 
 troop began to run, one of them fell into a hole, and before 
 he could extricate himself an opportunity was afforded foi 
 aU the men to throw their spears. When he rose ho was 
 like a huge porcupine, for each of the seventy or eighty men 
 
368 elephants' tenacity of life. 
 
 haa discharged moro than one spear at him. As they had no 
 more, thoy sent for me to finish him. In order to put him 
 at once out of pain, I -went to •within twenty yards, there 
 being a bank between us which ho jould not readily climb. 
 I rested the gun upon an ant-hill, so as to take a steady 
 aim; but, though I fired twelve two-ounce bullets (all 1 
 had) into dificrent parts, 1 could not kill him. As it was 
 becoming dark, I advised my men to let him stand, being 
 sure of finding him dead in the morning; but, though wo 
 searched all the next day, and went more than ten miles, 
 we never saw him again. 1 mention this to young men 
 who may think that they will be able to hunt elephants 
 on foot by adopting the Ceylon practice of killing them 
 by one ball in the brain. I believe that in Africa the 
 practice of standing before an elephant, expecting to kill 
 him with one shot, would bo certain death to the hunter; 
 and I would add for the information of those who may 
 think that, because I met with a great abundance of game 
 here, they also might find rare sport, that the tsetse exists 
 all along both banks of the Zambesi, and there can be no 
 hunting by means of horses. Hunting on foot in this climate 
 is such excessively hard work that I feel certain the keenest 
 sportsman would very soon turn away from it in disgust 
 I myself was rather glad, when furnished with the excuse 
 that I had no longer any balls, to hand over all the hunting 
 to my men, who had no more love for the sport than myself, 
 as they never engaged in it except when forced by hunger. 
 Some of them gave mo a hint to melt down my plate by 
 asking if it were not lead. I had two pewter plates and a 
 pioco of zinc, which I now melted into bullets. I also spent 
 the remainder of my handkerchiefs in buying spears lor 
 thorn. My men frequently surrounded herds of buffaloes 
 and killed numbers of the calves. 1, too, exerted myself 
 greatly; but, as 1 am now obliged to shoot with the left 
 Arm, I am a bad shot, and this, with the lightness of the 
 bnllets, made me very unsuccessful. The more tho hnngeri 
 the less my sucoess, invariably 
 
MR. OSWELL'S NAllROW ESCAPE. 309 
 
 1 may here add an adventure with an elephant of one 
 who has had more narrow escapes than any man living, 
 but whoso modesty has always prevented him from publish- 
 ing any thing about himself. When we were on the banks of 
 the Zouga in 1850, Mr. Oswell pursued one of these animalfl 
 into the dense, thick, thorny bushes met with on the margin 
 of that river, and to which the elephant usually flees foi 
 safety. He followed through a narrow pathway by lifting 
 up some of the branches and forcing his way through the 
 pest J but, when he had just got over this difficxilty, he saw 
 the elephant, whose tail he had but got glimpses of before, 
 now rushing toward him. There was then no time to lift up 
 branches; so he tried to force the horse through them. He 
 could not effect a passage; and, as there was but an instant 
 between the attempt and failure, the hunter tried to dis- 
 mount, but in doing this one foot was caught by a branch, 
 and the spur drawn along the animal's flank; this made 
 him spring away and throw the rider on the ground with 
 his face to the elephant, which, being in full chase, still 
 went on. Mr. Oswell saw the huge fore-foot about to de- 
 scend on bis legs, parted them, and drew in his breath as 
 if to resist the pressure of the other foot, which he expected 
 would next descend on his body. Ho saw the whole 
 length of the under part of the enormous brute pass over 
 him : the horse got away safely. I have heard of but one 
 other authentic instance in which an elephant went over a 
 man without injury, and, for any one who knows the nature 
 of the bush in which this occurred, the very thought of an 
 encounter in it with such a foe is appalling. As the thorns 
 are placed in pairs on opposite sides of the branches, and 
 those turn round on being pressed against, one pair brings 
 the other exactly into the position in which it must pierce 
 the intruder. They cut like knives. Horses dread this 
 bush extremely; indeed, most of them refuse to face its 
 thorns. 
 
 On reaoning Mburuma's village, his brother came to 
 moot us. We explained the reason of our delay, and ho 
 
370 MBURUMA'S VILLAGE AND PEOPLE. 
 
 told US that wo were looked upon with alarm. He Baid 
 that Siriatomba had been killed near the village of Selole 
 and hence that man's fears. He added that the Italian had 
 come talking of peace, as we did, but had kidnapped chil- 
 dren and bought ivory with them, and that we were sup- 
 posed to be following the same calling. I pointed to my 
 men, and asked if any of these were slaves, and if we had 
 any children among them, and I think we satisfied him that 
 we were true men. Eeferring to our ill success in hunting 
 the day before, he said, "The man at whose village you 
 remained was in fault in allowing you to want meat, for ho 
 had only to run across to Mburuma; ho would have giveo 
 him a little meal, and, having sprinkled that on the ground 
 as an offering to the gods, you would have found your 
 elephant." The chiefs in these parts take upon themsel-vea 
 an office somewhat like tho priesthood, and the peojilo 
 imagine that they can propitiate the Deity through them 
 In illustration of their ideas, it may be mentioned that, 
 when wo were among the tribes west of Semalembue, 
 several of the people came forward and introduced them 
 selves, — one as a hunter of elephants, another as a hunter 
 of hippopotami, a third as a digger of pitfalls, — apparently 
 wishing me to give them medicine for success in theii 
 avocations, as well as to cure the diseases of those to 
 whom I was administering the drugs. I thought they at- 
 tributed supernatural power to them, for, liko all Africans, 
 they have unbounded faith in the efficacy of charms; 
 but I took pains to let them know that they must pray 
 and trust to another power than mine for aid. "We nevoi 
 saw Mhuruma himself, and tlio conduct of his people indi 
 catod very strong suspicions, though ho gave us presents 
 of meal, maize, and native com. His people never came 
 uear us except in large bodies and fuUy armed. Wo had 
 to order tiiem to place thoir bows, arrows, and spears a^ 
 a distance before > entering our encampment. We did not, 
 however, care much for a little trouble now, as we hoped 
 that, if we could pass this t^me without much molestation. 
 
StJSPI'JIONS OP THE NATIVES. 871 
 
 we might yet be able to return with ease, and wiihont 
 mooting sour, suspicious looks. 
 
 Mburuma sent two men as guides to the Loangwa. Those 
 men tried to bring us to a stand, at a distance of about six 
 miles from the village, by the notice, "Mburuma says you 
 are to sleep under that tree." On declining to do this, we 
 were told that we must wait at a certain village for a sup- 
 ply of corn. As none appeared in an hour, I proceeded on 
 the march. It is not quite certain that their intentions 
 were hostile; but this seemed to disarrange their plans, and 
 one of them was soon observed running back to Mburuma. 
 They had first of all tiied to separate our party by volun- 
 teering the loan of a canoe to convey Sokwebu and me, 
 together with our luggage, by way of the river, and, as it 
 was pressed upon us, I thought that this was their design. 
 The next attempt was to detain us in the pass ; but, be- 
 traying no suspicion, wo civilly declined to place ourselves 
 in their power in an unfavorable position. We afterward 
 heard that a party of Babisa traders, who came from the 
 northeast, bringing English goods from Mozambique, had 
 been plundered by this same people. 
 
 At the village of Ma Mburuma, (mother of Mburuma,) the 
 guides, who had again joined us, gave a favorable report; 
 and the women and children did not flee. Ma Mburuma 
 promised us canoes to cross the Loangwa in our front. It 
 was pleasant to sec great numbers of men, women, and 
 boys come, without suspicion, to look at the books, watch, 
 looking-glass, revolver, &c. They are a strong, muoculai 
 race, and both men and women, arc seen cultivating the 
 ground. 
 
 Wo were obliged to hurry along, for the oxen wore bitten 
 daily by the tsetse, which, as I have before remarked, now 
 inhabits extensive tracts which once supported herds of 
 cattle that were swept off by Mpakane and other marau- 
 ders, whoso devastations were well known to Sokwebu, foi 
 he himself had been an actor in the scones. When he told 
 me of them ho always lowered his voice, in order that tb« 
 
S72 HOSTILE APF£ABANC£B. 
 
 ^des might not hear that he had been one of their ene- 
 mioB. But that wo wore looked upon with suspicion, on 
 accounii of having come in the footsteps of invaders, wa« 
 evident from our guides remarking to men in the gardeco 
 through which wo passed, " They have words of peace- 
 all very fine; but lies only, as the Bazunga arc great liars." 
 They thought we did not understand them ; but Sekwebn 
 knew every word perfectly; and, without paying any 
 ostensible attention to these complimentary remarks, we 
 always took care to explain ever afterward that we were 
 act Bazunga, but Makoa, (EngliBh.*) 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 DE. LIVINaSTONE DESCENDS THE ZAMBESI TO CHICOVA. 
 
 lith. — ^We reached the confluence of the Loangwa and 
 the Zambesi, most thankful to God for his great mercies in 
 helping us thus far. Mburuma's people had behaved so 
 suspiciously, that, though wo had guides from him, we 
 were by no means sure that we should not be attacked 
 in crossing the Loangwa. We saw them here collecting 
 in large numbers, and, though professing friendship, they 
 kept at a distance from our camp. They refused to lend 
 us more canoes than two, though they have many. They 
 have no intercourse with Europeans except through the 
 Babisa. They tell us that this was formerly the residence 
 of the Bazunga, and maintain silence as to the cause of 
 their leaving it. I walked about some ruins I discovered, 
 built of Btpne, and found the remains of a church, and on 
 one side lay a broken bell, with the letters I. H. S. and a 
 oross, but no date. There were no inscrivtions on stone, 
 and the people could not tell what lliu liazunga cftlled 
 their place. We found afterward it wax Zombo. 
 
CR08SIN0 THE LOANOWA 378 
 
 1 felt some turmoil of spirit in tho evening at the pros- 
 pect of having all my efforts for tho welfare of this groat 
 region and its teeming population knocked on tho head by 
 gavages to-morrow, who might be said to " know not what 
 they do." It seemed such a pity that tho important fitot 
 of the existence of tho two healthy ridges which I had di»- 
 covered should not become known in Christendom, for a 
 confirmation would thereby have been given to tho idea 
 that Aflnca is not open to tho gospel. But I read that 
 Jesus said, "All power is given unto me in heaven and on 
 earth: go ye, therefore, and teach all nations; . . . and lo, 
 lam with you alway, even unto the end of the world." I took 
 this as His word of honor, and went out to take observa- 
 tions for latitude and longitude, which, I think, wero very 
 Buccessful. (The church: lat. 15° 37' 22" S., long. 30° 
 82' B.) 
 
 \bth. — Tho natives of the surrounding country collected 
 around us this morning, all armed. The women and chil- 
 dren were sent away, and one of Mburuma's wives, who 
 lives in the vicinity, was not allowed to approach, though 
 she had come from her village to pay me a visit. Only one 
 canoe was lent to us, though wo saw two others tied to the 
 bank. The part we crossed was about a mile from tho 
 confluence, and, as it was now flooded, it seemea upward 
 of half a mile in breadth. Wo passed all our goods first on 
 to an island in the middle, then the remaining cattle and 
 men ; occupying tho post of honor, I, as usual, was the 
 last to enter tho canoe. A number of the inhabitants 
 ttood armed all the time we wero embarking. I showed 
 Ihem^ my watch, lens, and other things to keep them 
 amused, until there only remained those who were to enter 
 the canoe with me. I thanked them for their kindness, 
 and wished them peace. After all, they may have been 
 influenced only by the intention to bo ready in case I 
 ahould play them some false trick, for they have reason to 
 be distrustful of tho whites. Tho guides came over to bid 
 aa adieu, and we sat under a mango-tree fifteen feet 'n oir 
 
 32 
 
874 BITTJATION OF ZUMBO. 
 
 camforoDco. We found thom more communicative now 
 They said that the land on both sides belonged to the 
 Bazunga, and that they had Left of old, on the approach of 
 Changamera, Ngaba, and Mpakane. Sokwebu was with 
 the last-named, but he maintained that they never came to 
 the confluence, though they carried off all the cattle of 
 Mburuma. The guides confirmed this by saying that tho 
 Bazunga were not attacked, but fled in alarm on the 
 approach of the enemy. This mango-tree he knew by its 
 proper name, and we found seven others and seveial tama- 
 rinds, and wore informed that the chief Mburuma sends 
 men annually to gathei tho fruit, but, like many Africans 
 whom I have known, nas not had patience to propagate 
 more trees. I gave them some little presents for them- 
 selves, a handkerchief and a few beads; and they were 
 highly pleased with a cloth of red baize for Mburuma, 
 which Sekeletu had given mo to purchase a canoe. We 
 were thankful to part good friends. 
 
 The situation of Zumbo was admirably well chosen as a 
 site for commerce. Jjooking backward, we see a mass of 
 high, dark mountains covered with trees ; behind us rises 
 tho fine high hill Mazanzwe, which stretches away north 
 ward along the left bank of the Loangwa; to the S.E. lies 
 an open country, with a small round hill in the distance 
 vailed Tofulo The merchants, as they sat beneath tho 
 verandahs m front of their houses, had a magniflcent view 
 of the two rivers at their confluence, of their church at 
 the angle, and of all the gardens which they had on both 
 sides of the rivers. In these they cultivated wheat with- 
 out irrigation, and, as the Portuguese assert, of a grain 
 twice the size of that at Tete. From the guides we learned 
 that the inhabitants had not imbibed much idea of Chri» 
 tianity, for they used the same term for the church-bell 
 which they did for a diviner's drum. Prom this point the 
 merchants had water-communication in three directioiu 
 boyond, namely, from the Loangwa to the N.N.W., by the 
 Kafuo to the W., and by the Zambesi to the S W. Thefa 
 
laceeda's visit to oazembe. 375 
 
 oitention, howcvei wis chiefly attracted to the N., or 
 .uonda; and the pnfr;i5)al articles of trade were ivory 
 uid slaves. Private enterprise was always restrained, for, 
 tho colonies of tfao Portuguese being strictly military, and 
 'ho pay of the commandants being very small, the officers 
 uiTO always been ob liged tc engage in trade ; and had they 
 not employed their power to draw the trade to themselves- 
 by preventing private traders from making bargains be- 
 yond the villages, and only at regulated prices, they would 
 have had no trade, as they themselves were obliged to 
 remain always at their posts. 
 
 Several expeditions went to the north as far as to Ca- 
 eombe, and Dr. Lacerda, himself commandant of Tete, 
 went to that chief's residence. Unfortunately, he was cut 
 ofT while there, and his papers, taken possession of by a 
 Jesuit who accompanied him, were lost to the world. This 
 Jesuit probably intended to act fairly and have them pub- 
 lished; but soon after his return he was called away by 
 death himself, and the papers were lost sight of. Dr. La- 
 cerda had a strong desire to open up communication with 
 Angola, which would have been of importance then, as 
 affording a speedier mode of communication with Portugal 
 than by the way of the Cape ; but since the opening of the 
 overland passage to India a quicker transit is effected from 
 Eastern Africa to Lisbon by way of the Eed Sea. Besides 
 Lacerda, Cazembe was visited by Pereira, who gave a 
 glowing account of that chiefs power, which none of my 
 hiquiries have confirmed. The people of Matiamvo stated 
 to me that Cazembe was a vassal of their chief; and, &om 
 (ill the native visitors whom I have seen, he appears to be 
 exactly like Shinte and Eatema, only a little more power- 
 fill. The term "Emperor," which has been applied to him, 
 Beems totally inappropriate. The statement of Peieira 
 that twenty negroes were slaughtered in a day was not 
 confirmed by any one else, though numbers may have been 
 killed on some particular occasion during the time of \a$ 
 visit, for we find throughout all the country north of 20* 
 
B76 A MAN TOSSED BY A BUFFALO. 
 
 which I consider to bo real negro, the custom of slaugater 
 ing victims to accompany the departed soul of a chief; and 
 human sacrifices are occasionally offered, and certain parts 
 of tno bodies are used as charms. It is on account of the 
 existence of such rites, with the similarity of the language, 
 and the fact that the names of rivers are repeated again 
 »nd again from north to south through all that region, thai 
 I consider them to have been originally one family. Thf 
 last expedition to Cazembe was somewhat of the sara« 
 nature as the others, and failed in establishing a commerce 
 because the people of Cazembe, who had come to Tote to 
 invite the Portuguese to visit them, had not been allowed 
 to trade with whom they might. As it had not been free 
 trade there, Cazembe did not see why it should be free 
 trade at his town : he accordingly would not allow his 
 people to furnish the party with food except at his price ; 
 and the expedition, being half starved in consequence, 
 came away voting unanimously that Cazembe was a groat 
 bore. 
 
 When we left the Loangwa, we thought we had got rid of 
 the hills; but there are some behind Mazanzwe, though five 
 or six miles off from the river. Tsetse and the hills had de- 
 stroyed two riding-oxen, and, when the little one that I now 
 rode knocked up, I was forced to march on foot. The bush 
 being very dense and high, we were going along among the 
 trees, when three buffaloes, which we had unconsciously 
 passed above the wind, thought that they were surrounded 
 by men, and dashed through our line. My ox set off at a 
 gallop, and when I could manage to glance back I saw cne 
 af the men up in the air about five feet above a buffalo 
 which was tearing along with a stream of blood running 
 iiiwn his flank. When I got back to the poor fellow, i 
 i'ound that he had lighted on his face, and, though he had 
 been earned on the boms of the buffalo about twenty yards 
 before getting the final toss, the skin was not pierced, nor 
 was a bone broken. When the beasts appeared, he had 
 thrown down Ins load and stabbed one i» the side. It 
 

 
OAFrRK WAE 379 
 
 turned suddenly upon Mm, and, before ho could use a tree 
 for defence, carried him off. We shampooed him well, and 
 then went on, and in about a week ho was able to engage 
 in the hunt again. 
 
 On the morning of the 17th we wore pleased to see a 
 person coming from the island of Shibanga with jacket and 
 hat on. He was quite black, but had come from the Portu- 
 guese settlement at Teto or Nyungwe j and now, for the 
 first time, we understood that the Portuguese settlement 
 was on the other bank of the river, and that they had been 
 fighting with the natives for the last two years. "We had 
 thus got into the midst of a Caffto war, without any par- 
 ticular wish to be on either side. He advised us to cross 
 the river at once, as Mpende lived on this side. We had 
 been warned by the guides of Mburuma against him, for 
 they said that if we could get past Mpende we might reach 
 the white men, but that he was determined that no white 
 man should pass him. Wishing to follow this man's advice, 
 we proposed to borrow his canoes; but, being afraid to. 
 offend the lords of the river, he declined. The consequence 
 was, wo were obliged to remain on the enemy's side. The 
 next island belonged to a man named Zungo, a fine, frank 
 follow, who brought us at once a present of corn, bound in 
 a peculiar way in grass. He freely accepted our apology 
 for having no present to give in return, as ho know 
 that there were no goods in the interior, and, besides, 
 sent forward a recommendation to his brother-in-law 
 Pangola. 
 
 18(A. — ^Pangola visited us and presented us with food. 
 [n few other countries would one hundred and fourteen 
 sturdy vagabonds be supported by the generosity of the 
 head-men and villagers and whatever they gave bo pre- 
 sented with politeness. My men got pretty well supplied 
 individually, for they went into the villages and com- 
 menced dancing. The young women were especially 
 pleased with the new steps thoy had to show, thougji I 
 suspect many of them were invented fbr the occasion, and 
 
880 APPKOACHING MMNDB'S nLLASE. 
 
 would say, "Dance for me, and I will grind com for you." 
 At every fresh instance of liberality, Sekwobu said, "Did 
 not I tell you that these people had hearts, while we were 
 Btill at Linyanti ?" All agreed that the character he had 
 given was true, and some remarked, " Look ! although we 
 have been so long away from home, not one of us has 
 become lean." It was a fact that we had been all well 
 supplied either with meat by my gun or their own spears^ 
 or food from the great generosity of the inhabitants 
 Pangola promised to ferry us across the Zambesi, but 
 failed to fulfil his promise. He seemed to wish to avoid 
 offending his neighbor Mpende by aiding us to escape from 
 his hands j so wo proceeded along the bank. Although we 
 were in doubt as to our reception by Mpende, I could not 
 help admiring the beautiful country as we passed along. 
 Finding no one willing to aid us in crossing the river, we 
 proceeded to the village of the chief Mpende. When we 
 came to Mpondo's village, he immediately sent to inquire 
 . who we were, and then ordered the guides who had come 
 with us from the last village to go back and call their 
 masters. He sent no message to us whatever. We had 
 travelled very slowly up to this point, the tsetse-stricken 
 oxen being now unable to go two miles an hour. We 
 were also delayed by being obliged to stop at every village 
 and send notice of our approach to the head-man, who 
 came and received a little information and gave some foo(' 
 If wc had passed on without taking any notice of them, 
 they would have considered it impolite, and we should 
 have appeared more as enemies than friends. I consoled 
 myself for the loss of time by the thought that these con- 
 versations tended to the opening of our future path. 
 
 23d. — This morning, at sunrise, a party of Mpondo's 
 people came close to our encampment, uttering strange cries 
 and waving some bright-red substance toward us. They 
 than lighted a fire with charms in it, and departed, utter 
 ing the same hideous screams as before. This was intended 
 to render un powerless, and probably also to frighten us 
 
A. nOHT ANTICIPATED. 381 
 
 Bver since dawn, parties of armod men have been seen 
 oollecting from all quarters, and numbers passed us while 
 it was yet dark. Had we moved down the river at once, 
 it would have been considered an indication of fear or 
 defiance, and so would a retreat. I therefore resolved to 
 wait, trusting to Him who has the hearts of all men in 
 his hands. They evidently intended to attack us, for no 
 friendly message was sent ; and, when throe of the Batoka 
 the night before entered the village to beg food, a man 
 went round about each of them, making a noise like a lion 
 The villagers then called upon thom to do homage, and, 
 when they complied, the chief ordered some chaff to be 
 given them, as if it had been food. Othei things also 
 showed unmistakable hostility. As wo were now pretty 
 certain of a skirmish, I ordered an ox to be slaughtered, 
 as this is a means which Sobituane employed for inspiring 
 courage. I have no doubt that wo should have been vic- 
 torious : indeed, my men, who were far better acquainted 
 with fighting than any of the people on the Zambesi, were 
 rejoicing in the prospect of securing captives to carry the 
 tusks for them. " We shall now," said they, " got both 
 com and clothes in plenty." They were in a sad dtato, 
 poor fbUows ; for the rains wo had encountered had made 
 their skin-clothing drop off piecemeal, und they wore 
 looked upon with disgust by the well-fed and woU-clothed 
 Zambosians. They wore, however, veterans in maraud 
 ing ; and the head-men, instead of being depressed by fear, 
 as the people of Mpende intended should bo the case in 
 using their charms, hinted broadly to- me that I ought to 
 allow them to keep Mpendo's wives. The roasting of meat 
 went on fast and flirious, and some of the young men said 
 to me, "You havo seen us with elephants, but you don't 
 know yet what wo can do with men." I believe that, 
 had Mpende struck the first blow, he would soon have 
 found out that ho never made a greater mistake in his 
 life. 
 His whola tribe was assembled at about the distance of 
 
382 MPENDE'S fBIENDBHIF. 
 
 half a mile As tho country is covered with trees, we did 
 not see them ; but every now and then a few camo about 
 as as spies, and would answer no questions. I handed a 
 leg of the ox to two of these, and desired them to take it 
 to Mpendo. After waiting a considerable time in suspense 
 two old men made their appearance and said they had 
 oome to inquire who I was. I replied, " I am a Lekoa," 
 (an Englishman.) They said, " We don't know that tribe. 
 Wo suppose you are a Mozunga, tho tribe with which wa 
 h.ivo been fighting." As I was not yet aware that the 
 term Mozunga was applied to a Portuguese, and thought 
 they meant half-castos, I showed them my hair and the 
 skin of my bosom, and asked if the Bazunga had hair and 
 skin like mine. As tho Portuguese have the custom of 
 cutting tho hair close, and are also somewhat darker than 
 we are, they answered, " No ; wo never saw skin so white 
 as that," and added, "Ah ! you must be one of that tribe 
 that loves [literally, has heart to] tho black men." I, of 
 course, gladly responded in tho affirmative. They re- 
 turned to tho village, and we afterward heard that there 
 had been a long discussion between Mponde and his coun- 
 cillors, and that one of the men with whom we had re- 
 mained to talk the day before had been our advocate. He 
 was named Sii»dose Galea. When we wore passing hi& 
 viUago, after somo conversation, ho said to his people, " Is 
 that tho man whom they wish to stop after he has passed 
 so many tribes ? "What can Mpendo say to refusing him a 
 passage ?" It was owing to this man, and tho fact that I 
 belonged to the "friendly white tribe," that Mponao was 
 persuaded to allow us to pass. When wo knew the favor- 
 able decision of the council, I sent Sokwebu to speak about 
 the purchase of a canoe, as ono of my men had become 
 very ill, and I wished to relievo his companions by taking 
 him in a canoe. Before Sekwobu could finish his stoiy, 
 Mi)ondo remarked, " That white man is truly ono of oui 
 friends. Sec bow ho lets mo know his afflicLions !" Sek 
 webu adroitly took advanlau;o of this turn in tho conversa- 
 
OJtOSSlNG THE ZAMBESI. 388 
 
 tion, and said, " Ah ! if you only knew him as well as wo 
 do who have lived with him, you would understand that 
 he highly values your friendship and that of Mburuma, 
 and, as ho is a stranger, he trusts in you to direct him." 
 He replied, "Well, he ought to cross to the -'^ther side 
 of the river, for this bank is hilly and rough, and the way 
 to Teto IS longer on this than on the opposite bank." 
 " But who will take us across if you do not ?" " Truly," 
 replied Mpendo, " I only wish you had come sooner to tell 
 me about him ; but you shall cross " Mpende said fre- 
 quently he was sorry he had not known mo sooner, but 
 that he had been prevented by his enchanter from coming 
 near me ; and he lamented that the same person had kept 
 him from eating the moat which I had presented. He did 
 every thing he could afterward to aid us on our course, 
 and our departure was as different as possible from our 
 approach to his village. I was very much pleased to find 
 the English name spoken of with such great respect so 
 far from the coast, and most thankful that no collision 
 occurred to damage its influence. 
 
 24t/i. — ^Mpende sent two of his principal men to order the 
 people of a large island below to ferry us across. The ri\ er 
 is very broad, and, though my men were well acquainted 
 with the management of canoes, we could not all cross over 
 before dark. It is 1200 yards from bank to bank, and be- 
 tween 700 and 800 of deep water, flowing at the rate of 
 3i miles per hour. We landed first on an island, then, to 
 prevent our friends playing false with us, hauled the 
 eanoes up to our bivouac and slept in them. The next 
 morning wo all reached the opposite bank in safety. 
 
 2Qth. — I was most sincerely thankful to find myself on 
 the south bank of the Zambesi ; and, having nothing else, 1 
 Bent back one of my two spoons and a shirt as a thank- 
 offering to Mpcndc. The different head-men along ih\» 
 river act very much in concert, and if one refuses passage 
 they all do, uttering the sage remark, " If so-and-so did not 
 lend his canoes, he must have had some good reason." The 
 
S^4 BOROMA'S VILLAGE. 
 
 Doxt island wo camo to was that of a man named Mozink-wa 
 Here we were detained some days by continuous rains. 
 
 Wo were detained here so long that my tent became 
 again quite rotten. One of my men, after long sickness, 
 wrhich 1 did not understand, died here. He was one of tho 
 Batoka, and when unable to walk I had some difficulty in 
 making his companions carry him. They wished to leave 
 him to die when his case became hopeless. Another of 
 them deserted to Mozinkwa. Ho said that his motive for 
 doing so was that the Makololo had killed both his father 
 and mother, and, as he had neither wife nor child, there 
 was no reason why he should continue longer with them. 
 I did not object to his statements, but said if he should 
 change Jiis mind he would be welcome to rejoin us, and 
 intimated to Mozinkwa that he must not be sold as a slave 
 
 February 1. — We met some native traders ; and, as many 
 of my men were now in a state of nudity, I bought some 
 American calico, marked "LawTcncc Mills, Lowell," witl 
 two small tusks, and distributed it among the most needy. 
 After leaving Mozinkwa's, we camo to the Zingesi, a sand< 
 rivulet in flood, (lat. 15° 38' 34" S., long. 31° 1' E.) It was 
 sixty or seventy yards wide, and waist deep. Like all these 
 sand-rivers, it is for the most part dry; but, by digging 
 down a few feet, water is to be found, which is percolating 
 along the bed on a stratum of clay. 
 
 February 4. — We were much detained by rains, a heavy 
 shower without wind falling every morning about daybreak : 
 it often ^cleared up after that, admitting of our moving on a 
 few miles. A continuous rain of several hours then set in. 
 
 On tho 6th we came to the village of Boroma, which is 
 situated among a number of others, each surrounded by 
 extensive patches of cultivation. On the opposite side of 
 the river we have a great cluster of conical hills, called 
 Chorichori. Boroma did not make his appearance, but sent 
 a substitute, who acted civilly. I sent Sekwebu in tho 
 morning to state that we intended to move on : his mother 
 replied that, ae she had expected that we should remain, no 
 
A aAORULOua auiDE. i]8d 
 
 food was ready ; but she sent a basket of com and a fowl. As 
 an excuse wuy Boroma did not present himself, she said 
 that he was seized this morning by the Barimo, — which 
 probably meant that his lordship was drunk. 
 
 We marched along the river to a point opposite the hill 
 Pinkwe, (lat. 15° 39' 11" S., long. 32° 5' E.;) but the laio 
 Abundant rains now flooded the Zambesi again, and greai 
 quantities of wreck appeared upon the stream. 
 
 This flood having filled the river, wo found the numerous 
 rivulets which flow into it filled also, and when going along 
 the Zambesi we lost so much time in passing up each little 
 stream till wo could find a ford about waist deep, and then 
 returning to the bank, that I resolved to leave the river 
 altogether and strike away to the southeast. We accord- 
 ingly struck off when opposite the hill Pinkwe, and came 
 into a hard Mopano country. 
 
 This Chicova is not a kingdom, as has been stated, but a 
 level tract, a part of which is annually overflowed by the 
 Zambesi, and is well adapted for the cultivation of corn. 
 It is said to be below the northern end of the hill Bungwe. 
 I was very much pleased in discovering a small specimen 
 of such a precious mineral as coal. I saw no indication of 
 silver; and, if it ever was worked by the natives, it is re- 
 markable that they have entirely lost the knowledge of it, 
 and cannot distinguish between silver and tin. Our path 
 lay along the bed of the Nake for some distance, the banks 
 being covered with impenetrable thickets. The villages 
 are not numerous ; but we went from one to the other, and 
 iv'ere treated kindly. Here they call themselves Bambiri, 
 though the general name of the whole nation is Banyai. 
 One of our guides was an inveterate talker, always stop- 
 ping and asking for pay, that he might go on with a merry 
 heart. I thought that he led us in the most difficult paths 
 in order to make us feel his value, for, after passing through 
 one thicket after another, we always came into the bed 
 of the Nake again ; and as that was full of coarse sand, and 
 the water only ankle deep, and as hot as a foot-bath from 
 
886 NTAMPUNQO, THE KAIN-OHARMEH. 
 
 the powerful rays of the sun, we were all completely tirwi 
 out. He likewise gave us a bad character at evorv viUage 
 we passed, calling to them that they were to allow him to 
 load us astray, as we wore a bad set. Sekweb^ know 
 every word ho said, and, as ho became intolerabii<, I dis. 
 missed him, giving him six foot of calico I had bouj;(it from 
 native traders, and telling him that his tongue was a 
 nuisance. It is in general best, when a scolding is ncces- 
 nary, to give it in combination with a present, and then end 
 it by good wishes. This follow went off smiling ; and my 
 men remarked, " His tongue is cured now." 
 
 ISth. — The head-man of these parts is named Nyampungo. 
 I Bent the last fragment of cloth we had, with a request 
 that wo should bo furnished with a guide to the noxt chief. 
 After a long conference with his council, the oloth was 
 returned with a promise of compliance and u request for 
 some beads only. This man is supposed to possess the 
 3harm for rain, and other tribes send to hiri to beg it. 
 This shows that what we inferred before was correct, —that 
 less rain falls in this country than in Londa. "N'yampungo 
 behaved in quite a gentlemanly manner, presented mo 
 with some rice, and told my people to go among all the 
 villages and beg for themselves. An old man, father-in-law 
 of the chief, told mo that he had seen bookf before, but 
 never knew what they meant. They pray to departed 
 chiefs and relatives, but the idea of praying to God seemed 
 new, and they hoard it with reverence. As this was an 
 intelligent old man, I asked him about the silver; but he 
 was as ignorant of it as the rest, and said, " Wo never dug 
 silver, but we have washed for gold in the sauds of the 
 rivers Mazoe and Luia, which unite in the Li^enya." I 
 think that this is quite conclusive on the question of no 
 silver having been dug by the natives of this district. 
 Nyampungo is afflicted with a kind of disease called Se 
 Bonda, which I imagine to be a species of leprosy convmot 
 in this quarter, — though v'hoy are a cleanly people. They 
 never had cattle. The Obion's father had always lived if 
 
BLEPHA.VT-HUNT. 387 
 
 thoir present position, and, when I asked him why ho did 
 not possess these nseful animals, he said, " Who would give 
 ns the medicine to enable us to keep them ?" I found out 
 the reason afterward in the prevalence of tsetse ; but of 
 this ho was ignorant, having supposed that ho could not 
 koop cattle because ho had no medicine 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 DR. LXVINGSTONE REACHES TETE. 
 
 14th. — We loft Nyampungo this morning. The path 
 wound up the Molinge, another sand-river which flows into 
 the Nake. "When we got clear of the tangled jungle which 
 covers the banks of these rivulets, wo entered the Mopane 
 country, where we could walk with comfort. When wo 
 had gone on a few hours, my men espied an elephant, and 
 were soon in full pursuit. They were in want of meat, 
 having tasted nothing but grain for several days. The 
 desire for animal food made them all eager to slay him, 
 and, though an old bull, he was soon killed The people 
 of Nyampungo had never seen such desperadoes before. 
 One rushed up and hamstrung the beast, while still stand- 
 ing, by a blow with an axe. Some Banyai elephant- 
 hunters happened to be present when my men were fighting 
 with him. One of them took out his snuff-box and poured 
 out all its contents at the root of a tree, as an offering to 
 lliu Barimo for success. As soon as the animal fell, the 
 whole of my party engaged in a wild, savage dance round 
 the body, which quite frightened the Banyai, and he who 
 made the offering said to me, "I see you are travelling 
 with people who don't know how to pray: I therefore 
 offeied the only thing I had in their behalf, and the ele- 
 phant soon fell." One of Nyampungo's men, who remained 
 with me, ran a little forward, when an opening in the trees 
 
3S8 OAME-LAWS — HYENAS 
 
 gave us a view of tho chaso, and uttoi?od loud prayers for 
 BuccoBB m the combat. I admired tho devout belief they 
 aL possessed in the actual existence of unseen beings, and 
 prayed that they might yet know that benignant One who 
 views us all as his own. My own people, who are rather 
 a degraded lot, remarked to me, as I came up, " God gave 
 It to us. He said to the old beast, 'Go up there : men are 
 oome who will kill and cat you.' " These remarks are quoted 
 to give the reader an idea of tho native mode of expression 
 
 As we were now in the country of stringent game-laws, 
 wo were obliged to send all the way back to Nyampungo, 
 to give information to a certain person who had been loft 
 there by the real owner of this district to watch over his 
 property, the owner himself' living near the Zambesi. The 
 side upon which the elephant fell had a short, broken tusk; 
 the upper one, which was ours, was large and thick. Tho 
 Banyai remarked on our good luck. The men sent to give 
 notice came back late in the afternoon of the following dity. 
 They brought a basket of corn, a fowl, and a few striiigs 
 of handsome beads, as a sort of thank-offering for our 
 having killed it on their land, and said they had thanked 
 tho Barimo besides for our success, adding, "There it is; 
 eat it and be glad." Had wo begun to cut it up before wo 
 got this permission, we should have lost tlio whole. They 
 brought a large party to eat their half, and they divided ii 
 with us in a friendly way. My mon were delighted with 
 the feast, though, by lying unopened a whole day, the 
 carcass was pretty far gone. An astonishing number of 
 hyenas collected round and kept up a loud laughter foi 
 two whole nights. Some of them do make a very good 
 imitation of a laugh. I asked my men what tho hyenas 
 were laughing at, as they usually give animals credit for a 
 share of intelligence. Thoy said that they were laughing 
 because we could not take the whole, and that they would 
 have plenty to eat as well as we. 
 
 On coming to the part where the elephant was slain, we 
 passed through grass so tall that it reminded me of that io 
 
INSECT LIFE — BIRDS. i50» 
 
 the valley of Cassange. Insects are very numerous aftei 
 the rains commence. While waiting by the elephant, I 
 observed a great number of insects, like grains of fine sand, 
 moving on ray boxes. On examination -with a glass, four 
 species were apparent: one of green and gold preening its 
 wings, which glanced in the sun with metallic lustre; an- 
 other clear as crystal; a third of the color of vermilion; 
 and a fourth black. These are probably some of thosa 
 which consume the seeds of every plant that grows. 
 Almost every kind has its own peculiar insect, and when 
 the rains are over very few seeds remain untouched. The 
 rankest poisons, as the kongwhane and euphorbia, are soon 
 devoured ; the former has a scarlet insect ; and even the fiery 
 bird's-eye pepper, which will keep ofi" many others from their 
 own seeds, is itself devoured by a maggot. I observed here, 
 what I had often seen before, that certain districts abound 
 in centipedes. Here they have light reddish bodies and 
 blue legs: great myriapedes are seen crawling everywhere. 
 Although they do no harm, they excite in man a feeling of 
 loathing. Perhaps our appearance produces a similar feel- 
 ing in the elephant and other large animals. Where they 
 have been much disturbed, they certainly look upon us with 
 great distrust, as the horrid biped that mins their peace. 
 In the quietest parts of the forest there is heard a faint 
 but distinct hum, which tells of insect joy. One may see 
 many whisking about in the clear sunshine in patches 
 among the green glancing leaves; but there are invisible 
 myriads working with never-tiring mandibles on leaves 
 and stalks and beneath the soil. They are all brimful of 
 enjoyment. Indeed, the univeisality of organic life ma> 
 be called a mantle of happy existence encircling the world, 
 and imparts the idea of its being caused by the conscious- 
 ness of our benignant Father's smile on all the works of 
 his hands. 
 
 The birds of the tropics have been described as generally 
 wanting in power of song. I was decidedly of opinion 
 that this was not applicable to many parts in Londa, 
 
 33* 
 
(J9P BIKDS — OATERPILLAEB. 
 
 though birds there arc remarkably Bcareo. Here the 
 chorus, or body of song, was not much smaller in volnme 
 than it is in England. It was not so harmonious, and 
 Bonndod always as if the birds were singing in a foreign 
 tongue. Some resemble the lai-k, and, indeed, there arc 
 several of that family ; two have notes not unlike those of 
 the thrush. One brought the chaffinch to my mind, and 
 another the robin; but their songs are intermixed with 
 several curious abrupt notes unlike any thing English. 
 One utters deliberately "peek, pak, pokj" another has a 
 single note like a stroke on a violin-string. The mokwa 
 rcza gives forth a screaming set of notes like our blackbird 
 when disturbed, then concludes with what the natives say 
 is " pula, pula," (rain, rain,) but more like " weep, weep, 
 weep." Then we have the loud cry of francolins, the 
 "pumpuru, pumpuru," of turtle-doves, and the "chikcn, 
 chiken, chik, churr, churr," of the honey-guide. Occasion- 
 ally, near villages, we have a kind of mocking-bird, imi- 
 tating the calls of domestic fowls. These African birds 
 have not been wanting in song : they have only lacked 
 poets to sing their praises, which ours have had from the 
 time of Aristophanes downward. Ours have both a classic 
 and a modern interest to enhance their fame. In hot, dry 
 weathei', or at mid-day when the sun is fierce, all are still : 
 let, however, a good shower fall, and all burst forth at once 
 Into merry lays and loving courtship. The early mornings 
 and the cool evenings are their favorite times for singing. 
 There are comparatively few with gaudy plumage, being 
 totally unlike, in this respect, the birds of the Brazils. 
 The majority have decidedly a sober dress, though coU 
 lectoKS, having generally selected the gaudiest as the most 
 valuable, have conveyed the idea that the birds of tho 
 tropics for tho most part possess gorgeous plumage. 
 
 Ibth. — Several of my men have been bitten by spiders 
 and other insects, but no effect except pain has followed. 
 A. large caterpillar is frequently seen, called Iczuntabuea. 
 It is covered with long gray hairs, and, tho body being 
 
THE MOKORONGA. S91 
 
 d»A, it ireoeiiibles a porcupine in miniature, K one touchoi 
 it, the haiis run into the pores of the skin, and remain 
 there, giving sharp pricks. There are others which have 
 a similar means of defence; and when the hand is drawn 
 across them, as in passing a bush on which they happen to 
 bo, the contact resembles the stinging of nettles. Prom 
 the great number of caterpillars seen, wo have a consider- 
 able variety of butterflies. One particular kind flies mors 
 like a swallow than a butterfly. They are not remarkable 
 for the gaudiness of their colors. 
 
 In passinr. along, we crossed the hills Vungue or Mvung- 
 we, which *e found to be composed of various eruptive 
 rocks. At one part we have breccia of altered marl or slate 
 in quartz, and various amygdaloids. It is curious to observe 
 the different forms which silica assumes. We have it in clay- 
 stone porphyry here, no larger than turnip-seed, dotted 
 thickly over the matrix ; or crystallized round the walls of 
 cavities once filled with air or other elastic fluid ; or it may 
 appear in similar cavities as tufts of yellow asbestos, or as 
 red, yellow, or green crystals, or in laminae so arranged as to 
 appear like fossil wood. Yungue forms the watershed be- 
 tween those oand-rivulets which run to the E".B., and others 
 which flow southward, as the Kapopo, Ue, and Due, which 
 run into the Luia. 
 
 "We found that many elephants had been feeding on the 
 fruit called mokoronga. This is a black-colored plum, 
 haviug purple juice. Wo all ate it in large quantities, aa 
 wo fouitd it delicious. The only defect it has is the groat 
 size of the seed in comparison with the pulp. This is the 
 chief fault of all uncultivated wild fruits. The moko- 
 ronga exists throughout this part of the country most 
 abundantly, and the natives eagerly devour it, as it is said 
 to be perfectly wholesome, or, as they express it, "It is 
 pure fat," and fat is by thom considered the best of food. 
 Though only a little larger than a choriy, we found that the 
 elephants had stood picking them off patiently by the hoar. 
 We observed the footprints of a black rhinoceros (BMt» 
 
B92 THE KHINOOEROS. 
 
 eeros biccrnis, Linn.) and her calf. We saw other footprinia 
 among the hills of Semalembue; but the black rhinoceros 
 is remarkably scarce in all the country north of the Zam- 
 besi. The white rhinoceros {Rhinoceros simus of Burchell,) 
 or Mohohu of the Bechuanas, is quite extinct here, and 
 will soon become unknown in the country to the soath. 
 It feeds almost entirely on grasses, and is of a timid, un- 
 guspecting disposition : this renders it an easy prey, and 
 they are slaughtered without mercy on the introduction of 
 fire-arms. The black possesses a more savage nature, and, 
 like the iU-natured in general, is never found with an ounce 
 of fat in its body. From its greater fierceness and wariness, 
 it holds its place in a district much longer than its more 
 cimid and better-conditioned neighbor. Mr. Oswell was 
 once stalking two of these boasts, and, as they came slowly 
 to him, he, knowing that there is but little chance of hitting 
 the small brain of this animal by a shot in the head, lay 
 expecting one of them to give his shoulder till he was 
 within a few yards. The hunter then thought that by 
 making a rush to his side he might succeed in escaping; 
 but the rhinoceros, too quick for that, turned upon him, 
 and, though he discharged his gun close to the animal's 
 head, he was tossed in the air. My friend was insensible 
 for some time, and, on recovering, found large wounds on 
 the thigh and body: I saw that on the former part stiU 
 open, and five inches long. The white, however, is not 
 always quite safe, for one, even after it was mortally 
 wounded, attacked Mr. Oswell's horse, and thrust tht 
 horn through to the saddle, tossing at the time both horse 
 and rider. I once saw a white rhinoceros give a buffalo, 
 which was gazing intently at myself, a poke in the chest, 
 but it did not wound it, and seemed only a hint to get oul 
 of the way. Pour varieties of the rhinoceros are enume- 
 rated by naturalists, but my observation led mo to conclude 
 that there are but two, and that the extra species have 
 been formed frcva. differences in their sizes, ages, and the 
 direction of the horns ; as if we should reckon the short- 
 
nONEY AND WAX. 393 
 
 homed cattle a different species from the Alderneys or the 
 Highland breed. I was led to this from having onco soon 
 a black rhinoceros with a horn bent downward like that 
 of the kuabaoba, and also because tho animals of tho two 
 great varieties differ very much in appearance at different 
 stages of their growth. I find, however, that Dr. Smith, 
 the best judge in these matters, is quite decided as to the. 
 propriety of tho subdivision into three or four species. Pot 
 common readers it is sufficient to remember that there are 
 two well-defined species, that differ entirely in appearance 
 and food. Tho absence of both these rhinoceroses among 
 the reticulated rivers in the central valley may easily bo 
 accounted for, they would be such an easy prey to tho 
 natives in their canoes at the periods of inundation ; but 
 one cannot so readily account for the total absence of the 
 giraffe and ostrich on the high open lands of the Batoka 
 north of the Zambesi, unless we give credence to the native 
 report which bounds the country still farther north by 
 another network of waters near Lake Shuia, and suppose 
 that it also prevented their progress southward. The Ba- 
 toka have no name for the giraffe or tho ostrich in their lan- 
 guage; yet, as tho former exists in considerable numbers 
 in the angle formed by tho Leeambye and Chobo, they 
 may have come from the north along the western ridge. 
 The Chobo would seem to havo been too narrow to act as 
 an obstacle to the giraffe, supposing it to have come into 
 that district from the south; but the broad river into 
 which that stream flows seems always to have presented 
 an impassable barrier to both tho giraffe and the ostrich, 
 though they abound on its southern border, both in tho 
 Kalahari Desert and the country of Mashona. 
 
 Tho honey-guides were very assiduous in their friendly 
 ofSces, and enabled my men to get a large quantity of 
 honey. But, though bees abound, tho wax of these parts 
 forms no article of trade. In Londa it may be said to be 
 fully cared for, as you find hives placed upon trees in the 
 most lonesome forests. We often met strings of carriers 
 
S94 SLOW TUAVELMNO 
 
 laden with largo blocks of this substance, each eighty or 
 a hundred pounds in weight, Jind pieces were offered to 
 us for sale at every village ; but hero wo never saw a single 
 artificial hive. The bees were always found in the natural 
 cavities of mopane-trees. It is probable that the good 
 market for wax afforded to Angola by the churches of 
 Brazil led to the gradual development of that branch of 
 eommorce there. I saw even on the banks of the Quango as 
 much as sixpence paid for a pound. In many parts of tho 
 Batoka country bees exist in vast numbers, and the tribute 
 due to Sekeletu is often paid in large jars of honey ; but, 
 having no market nor use for the wax, it is thrown away. 
 This was the case also with ivory at tho Lake Ngami at 
 the period of its discovery. 
 
 Though wo are now approaching the Portuguese settle 
 ment, the country is still full of large game. My men 
 killed six buffalo-calves out of a herd wo met. The abun- 
 dance of these animals, and also of antelopes, shows the in 
 BufScioncy of the bow and arrow to lessen their numbers. 
 There are also a great many lions and hyenas, and there is 
 no check upon the increase of the former, for the people, 
 believing that tho souls of their chiefs enter into them_ 
 never attempt to kill them : they even bcliovo that a chief 
 may metamorphose himself into a lion, kill any one he 
 chooses, and then return to the human form : therefore, 
 when they see one, they commcneo clapping their hands, 
 which is the usual mode of salutation here. The conse- 
 quence is that lions and hyenas are so abundant that we 
 see little huts made in tho trees, indicating the places where 
 some of the inhabitants have slept when benighted in tho 
 fields. As numbers of my men frequently left tho lino of 
 march in order to take out the korwes from their nests 
 or follow tho honey-guides, they excited the astonishment 
 of our guides, who were constantly warning them of the 
 danger they thereby incurred from lions. I was often con- 
 siderably ahead of the main body of my men on this ao- 
 ooiuat, and was obli;jed to stop every houi- or two ; but, the 
 
ORAPIit 39P 
 
 Ran being excessively hot by day, 1 was glad of the excuse 
 for resting. "Wo could make no such ]ii'odigious stiidcs aa 
 officers in the Arctic regions are able to do. Ten or twelve 
 miles a day were a good march for both the msn and my- 
 self; and it was not the length of the marches, bnt con- 
 tinuing day after day to perform the same distance, that 
 was so fatiguing. It was in this case much longer than ap- 
 pears on the map, because wo kept out of the way of Til- 
 lages. I drank less than the natives when riding; but all my 
 clothing was now constantly damp from the moisture which 
 was imbibed in largo quantities at every pond. One does 
 not stay on these occasions to prepare water with alum 
 or any thing else, but drinks any amount without fear. I 
 never felt the atmosphere so steamy as on the low-lying 
 lands of the Zambesi; and yet it was "becoming cooler than 
 it was on the highlands. 
 
 We crossed the rivulets Kapopo and Ue, now running but 
 usually dry. There are great numbers of wild grape-vines 
 growing in this quarter : indeed, they abound everywhere 
 along the banks of the Zambesi. In the Batoka country 
 there is a variety which yields a black grape of considerable 
 sweetness. The leaves are very large and harsh, as if capa- 
 ble of withstanding the rays of this hot sun ; but the most 
 common kinds — one with a round leaf and a greenish 
 grape, and another wi th a leaf closely resembling that of 
 the cultivated varieties and with dark or purple fruit — 
 have large seeds, which arc strongly astringent and render 
 it a disagreeable fruit. The natives eat all the varieties ; and 
 I tasted vinegar made by a Portuguese from these grapes. 
 Probably a country which yields the wild vines so very 
 abundantly might be a fit one for the cultivated species, 
 At this part of the journoj' so many of the vines had run 
 across the little footpath we followed that one had to 
 bo constantly on the watch to avoid being tripped. The 
 ground was covered with rounded shingle, which was not 
 easily seen among the grass. Pedestrianism may be all 
 very well for those whose obesity requires munh exerciso ; 
 
896 THE BE — MONINA'S VILLAGE. 
 
 but for one who was becoming as thin, as a lath, Ihiot 
 tho constant perspiration caused by marching day aft 
 day in the hot sun, tho only good I saw in it was that i 
 gave an honest sort of a man a vivid idea of the tread 
 mill. 
 
 Although the rains wore not quite over, great numbcrt 
 of pools were drying up, and the ground was in many 
 parts covered with small groeii cryptogamous plants, which 
 gave it a mouldy appearance and a strong smell. As we 
 so-ntctimcs pushed aside the masses of rank vegetation 
 which hung over our path, wo felt a sort of hot blast on our 
 faces. Every thing looked unwholesome ; but we had no 
 fever. The Ue flows between high banks of a soft red 
 sandstone streaked with white, and pieces of tufa. Tho 
 crumbling sandstone 'is evidently alluvial, and is cut into 
 twelve feet deep. In this region, too, we mot with pot- 
 holes six feet deep and three or four in diameter. In some 
 nases they form convenient wells ; in others they are full 
 of earth ; and in others still the people have made them 
 into graves for their chiefs. 
 
 On tho 20th we came to Monina's village, (close to tho 
 Band-river Tangwe, latitude 16° 13' 38" south, longitude 
 32° 32' east.) This man is very popular among the tribes, 
 on account of his liberality. Boroma, Nyampungo, Mo- 
 nina, Jira, Katolosa, (Monomotipa,) and Susa, all acknow- 
 ledge the supremacy of one called NyateTje, who is re- 
 ported to decide all disputes respecting land. 
 
 "When we told Monina that wo had nothing to present 
 but some hoes, he replied that ho was not in need of those 
 articles, and that he had absolute power over tho country 
 in front, and if ho prevented us from proceeding no one 
 would say any thing to him. His little boy Boromo having 
 come tc -ho encampment to look at us, I gave him a knife, 
 and he went off and brought a pint of honey for me. The 
 father came soon afterward, and I offered him a shirt He 
 remarked to his councillors, "It is evident that thie man 
 has nothing, for, if he had, his people would bo baying 
 
mSANITT AND DISAPPEAEANOE OP MONAHIN. 397 
 
 pionsions, but wo don't soo them going about for that pur- 
 IX)80." His council did not agroo in this. They evidently 
 believed that we had goods but kept thorn hid, and we folt 
 It lather hard to bo suspected of fivlsohood. It was pro- 
 bably at thoir suggestion that in tho evening a war-dance 
 was got up about a hundred yards from our encampment, 
 as if to put us in fear and force us to bring forth presents. 
 Borne of Monina's young men had guns, but most were 
 armed with large bows, arrows, and spears. They boat 
 their drums furiously, and occasionally fired off a gun. As 
 this sort of dance is never got up unless there is an inten- 
 tion to attack, my men expected an assault. "We sat and 
 lOoked at them for some time, and then, as it became dark. 
 lay do^vn all ready to give them a warm reception. But an 
 hour or two after dark the dance ceased, and, as we then 
 saw no one approaching us, wo went to sleep. Daring the 
 night, one of my head-men, Monahin, was seen to got up, 
 £>6k toward tho village, and say to one who was half 
 awake, "Don't you hear what these people are saying? 
 Go and listen." He then walked off in the opposite direc- 
 tion, and never returned. We had no guard set, but every 
 one lay with his spear in his hand. Tho man to whom he 
 spoke appears to have been in a dreamy condition, for it 
 did not strike him that he ought to give the alarm. Next 
 morning I found to my sorrow that Monahin was gone, 
 and not a trace of him could be" discovered. Ho had an 
 attack af pleuritis some weeks before, and had recovered, 
 but latterly complained a little of his head. I observed 
 him in good spirits on the way hither, and in crossing 
 some of the streams, as I was careful not to wet my feet, 
 he aided mo, and several times joked at my becoming so 
 light. In the evening ho sat beside my tent until it was 
 dark, and did not manifest any great alarm. It was pro- 
 bably either a sudden fit of insanity, or, having gone a little 
 way out from the camp, he may have been carried off by a 
 Hon, as this part of tho country is full of them. I incline to 
 the former opinion, because sudden insanity occurs when 
 
 34 
 
898 SAND llIVEa TANGWE. 
 
 there is any unusual strain upon their minds. Monahin waa 
 in commana of the BatoJia of Mokwine in my party, and he 
 was looked upon with great dislike by all that chief's sub- 
 jects. The only difficulties I had with them arose in con- 
 sequence of being obliged to give orders through him 
 They said Mokwine is reported to have been killed by the 
 Makololo, but Monahin is the individual who put forth his 
 hand and slow him. When one of these people kills in 
 battle, he seems to have no compunction aftorwardj but 
 when he makes a foray on his own responsibility, and kills 
 a man of note, the common people make remarks to each 
 other, which are reported to him and bring the affair per- 
 petually to his remembrance. This iteration on the con- 
 science causes insanity, and, when one runs away in a wide 
 country like this, the fugitive is never heard of. Monahiu 
 had lately become afraid of his own party from overhearing 
 their remarks, and said more than once to me, " They want 
 to kill me." I believe if ho ran to any village they would 
 take care of him. I felt his loss greatly, and spent three 
 days in searching for him. He was a sensible and most 
 obliging man. I sent in the morning to inform Monina of 
 this sad event, and he at once sent to all the gardens 
 around, desiring the people to look for him, and, should ho 
 come near, to bring him home. He evidently sympathized 
 with us in our sorrow, and, afraid lest we might suspect 
 him, added, "Wo never catch nor kidnap people here. It 
 is not our custom. It is G©nsidored as guilt among all the 
 tribes." I gave him credit for truthfulness, and he allowed 
 us to move on without further molestation. 
 
 After leaving his village, wo marched in the bed of & 
 »and-river a quarter of a mile broad, called Tangwe. 
 Walking on this sand is as fatiguing as walking on snow. 
 The country is flat, and covered with low trees; but wo see 
 high hills in the distance. A little to the south we have 
 thoso of the Lobole. This region is very much infested by 
 lions, and men never go any distance into the woods alone 
 Haying turned aside on one occasion at mid-day, and goie 
 
THE ORDEAL MUAVI. 399 
 
 a short distance among grass a little taller than myself, an 
 animal sprang away from mo which was certainly not an 
 antelope, but I could not distinguish whether it was a lion 
 or a hyena. This abundance of carnivora made us lose al] 
 hope of Monahin. We saw footprints of many black rhi- 
 noceroses, buffalos, and zebras. 
 
 After a few hours we reached the village of Nyakoba, 
 Two men who accompanied us from Monina to Nyakoba's 
 would not believe us when wo said that wo had no beads. 
 It is very trying to have one's veracity doubted j but, on 
 opening the boxes, and showing thom that all I had 
 was perfbctly useless to them, they consented to rocoivo 
 some beads off Sekwebu's waist, and 1 promised to send 
 four yards of calico from Tctc. As we eamo away from 
 Monina's village, a witch-doctor, who had been sent for, 
 arrived, and all Monina's wives went forth into the fields 
 that morning fasting. There they would bo compelled 
 to drink an infusion of a plant named "goho," which 
 is used as an ordeal. This ceremony is called " muavi," 
 and is performed in this way. "When a man suspects 
 that any of his wives has bewitched him, ho sends 
 for the witch-doctor, and all the wives go forth into the 
 field and remain fasting till that person has made an 
 infusion of the plant. They all drink it, each one holding 
 up her hand to heaven in attestation of her innocency. 
 Those who vomit it are considered innocent, while those 
 whom it purges are pronounced guilty, and put to death by 
 burning. The innocent return to their homes, and slaughter 
 a cock as a thank-offering to their guardian spirits. The 
 practice of ordeal is common among all the negro nations 
 north of the Zambesi. This summary procedure excited 
 my surprise, for my intercourse with the natives hero had 
 led me to believe that the women were held in so much 
 estimation that the men would not dare to get rid of them 
 thus. But the explanation I received was this. The 
 slightest imputation makes them eagerly desire the test; 
 they are conscious of being innocent, and have the fallofit 
 
400 woman's rights 
 
 faith in the muavi detecting the guilty alone: hence they 
 go willingly, and even eagerly, to drink it. When in An- 
 gola, a half-caste was pointed out to mo who is one of the 
 most successful merchants in that country; and the mothei 
 of this gentleman, who was perfectly free, went, of her 
 own accord, all the way from Ambaca to Cassange, to be 
 killed by the ordeal, her rich son making no objection. 
 The same custom prevails among the Barotse, Eashubia, 
 and Batoka, but with slight variations. The Barotse, foi 
 instance, pour the medicine down the throat of a cock or 
 of a dog, and judge of the innocence or guilt of the person 
 accused according to the vomiting or purging of the 
 animal. I happened to mention to my own men the water- 
 test for witches formerly in use in Scotland : the supposed 
 witch, being bound hand and foot, was thrown into a pond : 
 if she floated, she was considered guilty, taken out, and 
 burned; but if she sank and was drowned, she was pro- 
 nounced innocent. The wisdom of my ancestors excited 
 as much wonder in their minds as their custom did in 
 mine. 
 
 The person whom Nyakoba appointed to be our guide, 
 having informed us of the decision, came and bargained 
 that his services should bo rewarded with a hoe. I had 
 no objection to give it, and showed him the article : ho 
 was delighted with it, and went ofi' to show it to his wife. 
 He soon afterward returned, and said that, though he was 
 perfectly willing to go, his wife would not let him. I said, 
 '■' Then bring back the hoe ;" but he replied, " I want it." 
 " "Well, go with us, and you shall have it." " But my wife 
 won't let me." I remarked to ray men, " Did you ever 
 hear such a fool 1" They answered, " Oh, that is the cus- 
 tom of these parts : the wives are the masters." And 
 Sekwebu informed me that ho had gone to this man's 
 house, and heard him saying to his wife, "Do you think 
 that I would ever leave you ?" then, turning to Sekwebu, 
 he asked, "Do you think I would leave this pretty 
 woman ? Is she not pretty?" Sekwebu bad been making 
 
woman's rights. 40J 
 
 ln<i»\<«>8 among the pooplo, and had found that the 
 women indeed possessed a great deal of influence. We 
 questioned the guide whom we finally got from Nya- 
 koba, an intelligent young man, who had much of the 
 Arab features, and found the statements confirmed. 
 When a young man takes a liking for a girl of anothoi 
 Tillage, and the parents have no objection to the match, 
 ho is obliged to come and live at their village. Ho has 
 to perform certain sci-vices for the mother-in-law, such 
 as keeping her well supplied with firewood ; and wneu ■ 
 he comes into her presence he is obliged to sit with hia 
 knees in a bent position, as putting out his feet toward 
 the old lady would give her great offence. If he becomes 
 tired of living in this state of vassalage, aud wishes to re- 
 turn to his own family, ho is obliged to leave all his chil- 
 dren behind: they belong to the wife. This is only a 
 more stringent enforcement of the law from which ema- 
 nates the practice which prevails so very extensively in 
 Africa, known to Europeans as "buying wives." Such 
 virtually it is ; but it does not appear quite in that light 
 to the actors. So many head of cattle or goats are given 
 to the parents of the girl " to give her up," as it is termed, 
 — i.e. to forego aU claim on hor offspring and aUow an 
 entire transference of her and her seed into another family. 
 K nothing is given, the family from which she has come 
 can claim the children as part of itself: the payment is 
 made to sever this bond. In the case supposed, the young 
 man has not been able to advance any thing for that pur- 
 pose; and, from the temptations placed here before my 
 men, I have no doubt that some prefer to have thoii 
 daughters married in that way, as it leads to the increase 
 of their own village. My men excited the admiration 
 of the Bambiri, who took them for a superior breed on 
 account of their bravery in elephant-hunting, and wished 
 to get them as sons-in-law on the conditions named ; but 
 nono yielded to the temptation. 
 Wo were informed that there is a child belonging to a 
 
 34* 
 
402 THE WEATHEB. 
 
 half-caste Porti^gueso m ono of these tribes, and the fathoi 
 had tried in vain to get him from the mother's parents. 
 Wo saw several things to confirm the impression of the 
 higher position which women hold hero ; and, being anxious 
 to discover if I were not mistaken, when wo came among 
 the Portuguese I inquired of them, and was told that they 
 had ascertained the same thing; and that, if they wished 
 ft man to perform any service for them, he would reply, 
 "Well, I shall go and ask my wife." If she consented, he 
 would go and perform his duty faithfully; but no amount 
 of coaxing or bribery would induce him to do it if she 
 refused. The Portuguese praised the appearance of the 
 Banyai; and they certainly are a fine race. 
 
 "We got on better with Nyakoba than wo expected. He 
 has been so much afi'ccted by the sesenda that ho is quite 
 decrepit, and requires to be fed. I at once showed his 
 messenger that we had nothing whatever to give. Nya- 
 koba was offended with him for not believing me, and ho 
 immediately sent a basket of maize and another of corn, 
 saying that he believed my statement, and would send 
 men with me to Tete who would not lead me to any other 
 village. 
 
 The birds here sing very stv^eetly," and I thought I heard 
 the canary, as in Londa. We had a heavy shower of rain; 
 and I observed that the thermometer sank 14° in ono hour 
 afterward. Prom the beginning of February we expe- 
 rienced a sensible diminution of temperature. In January 
 the lowest wa" 75', and that at sunrise; the average at 
 the same hour (sunrise) being 79° ; at 3 p.m., 90°; and at 
 ■unset, 82°. In February it fell as low as 70° in the course 
 01 the night, and the average height was 88°. Only once did 
 it rise to 94°, and a thunder-storm followed this ; yet the 
 Bensation of heat was greater now than it had been at 
 much higher temperatures on more elevated lands. 
 
 Wo passed several villages by going roundabout ways 
 through the forest. We saw the remains of a lion that had 
 been killed by a buffalo, and the horns of » putokvane, 
 
TH£ BANTAI. 40S 
 
 (black autolopo,) tho finest I had over seen, which had mel 
 +a death by a lion. The drums, beating all night in one 
 village near which we slept, showed that some person in it 
 had finished his course. On the occasion of tho death of a 
 chief, a trader is liable to be robbed, for tho people consider 
 tbomBclvoB not amenable to law until a new one is elected. 
 We continued a very winding course, in order to avoid th« 
 chief Katolosa, who is said to levy large sums upon those 
 who fall into his hands Ona of our guides was a fine, tall 
 young man, the very image of Ben Habib the Arab. They 
 were carrying dried buffalo's meat to tho market at Tote 
 as a private speculation. 
 
 A groat many of the Banyai are of a light coffeo-and- 
 milk color, and, indeed, this color is considered handsome 
 throughout tho whole country, a fair complexion being as 
 much a test of beauty with them as with us. As they 
 draw out their hair into small cords a foot in length, and 
 entwine the inner bark of a certain tree round each sepa- 
 rate cord, and dye this substance of a reddish color, many 
 tof them put me in mind of the ancient Egyptians. The 
 great mass of dressed hair which they possess reaches to 
 the shoulders, but when they intend to travel they draw it 
 ap to a bunch and tie it on tho top of the head. They are 
 cleanly in their habits. 
 
 As wo did not come near human habitations, and could 
 only take short stages on account of tho illness of one of 
 my men, I had an opportunity of observing the expedients 
 ray party resorted to in order to supply their wants. 
 Large white edible mushrooms aro found on the ant-hills, 
 and are very good. Tho mokuri, a tuber which abounda 
 in tho Mopane country, they discovered by percussing tho 
 ground with stones ; and another tuber, about the size of a 
 turnip, called " bonga," is found in the same situations. It 
 does not determine to the joints like tho mokuri, and in 
 winter has a sensible amount of salt in it. A fruit called 
 'ndongo" by tho Makololo, "dongolo" by the Bambiri, 
 resembles in appearance a small plum, which becomes 
 
104 PURSUED BY NATIVES. 
 
 olack when ripo, and is good food, as the seeds arc small 
 Many trees are known by tradition, and one roceivo* 
 curious bits of information in asking about different froitt 
 that are met with. A tree named " sh'ekabakadzi" is su- 
 perior to all others for making firo by friction. As its 
 name implies, women may even readily make firo by it 
 when benighted. 
 
 Wo were tolerably successful in avoiding the viUages, 
 and slept one night on the flanks of the hill Zimika, whore 
 a great number of deep pot-holes afforded an abundant 
 supply of good rain-water. Here, for the first time, we 
 saw hills with bare, smooth, rocky tops, and we crossed 
 over broad dikes of gneiss and sycnitio porphyry : the 
 directions in which they lay were N. and S. As we were 
 now T ear to Tete, we were congratulating ourselves on 
 havirg avoided those who would only have plagued usj 
 but next morning some men saw us, and ran off to inform 
 the neighboring villages of our passing. A party imme- 
 diately pursued us, and, as they knew wo were within call 
 of iKatoldsa, (Monomotapa,) they threatened to send infor- 
 mation to that chief of our offence in passing through the 
 country without leave. "Wc were obliged to give them two 
 small tusks; for, had they told Katolosa of our supposed 
 offence, we should in all probability have lost' the whole 
 Wo then went through a very rough, stony country with- 
 out any path. Being pretty well tired out in the evening 
 ot the 2d of March, I remained at about eight miles' distance 
 from Tete, Tette, or Nyungwe. My men asked mo to go 
 on: I felt too fatigued to proceed, but sent forward to the 
 commandant the letters of recommendation with which I 
 had been favored in Angola by the bishop and others, and 
 Uy down to rest. Our food having been exhausted, mj ' 
 men had been subsisting for some time on roots and honey 
 About two o'clock in the morning of the 3d wcf were 
 ftroused by two officers and a company of soldiers, who had 
 been sent with the materials for a civilized breakfast and a 
 " mashoola" to bring mo to Tete. (Commandant's house •• 
 
GENEBOSITT OP IHE COMMANDANT. 405 
 
 lat. 16° 9' 8" S., long. 33° 28' B.) My companions though* 
 that wo were captured by the armed men, and called me 
 in alarm. When I understood the errand on which they had 
 come, and nad partaKcn of a good breakfast, though I had 
 just before been too tired to sleep, all my fatigue vanished 
 It was the most refreshing breakfhst I ever partook cf, 
 Bnd I walked the last eight miles without the least feeling 
 of weariness, although the path was so rough that one of 
 the officers remarked to me, "This is enough to tear t. 
 man's life out of him." The pleasure experienced in par- 
 taking of that breakfast was only equalled by the enjoy- 
 ment of Mr. Gabriel's bed on my arrival at Loanda. It 
 was also enhanced by the news that Sebastopol had fallon 
 and the war was finished. 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXT 
 nu. Livingstone's residence at tete. 
 
 1 WAS most kmdly received by the commandant, Tito 
 Augusto d'Araujo Sicard, who did every thing in his power 
 to restore mo from my emaciated condition ; and, as this 
 was still the unhealthy period at Kilimane, he advised me 
 to remain with him until the following month. Ho also 
 generously presented my men with abundant provisions of 
 millet ; and, by giving them lodgings in a house of his own 
 until they could erect their own huts, ho preserved them 
 from the bite of the tampans, here named Carapatos. We 
 had heard frightful accounts of this insect while among th« 
 fianyai ; and Major Sicard assured me that to strangers it* 
 bite is more especially dangerous, as it sometimes canseg 
 fata ' fever It may please our homoeopathic friends to hear 
 that, in curing the bite of the tampan, the natives admi- 
 nister one of the insects bruised in the medicine employed. 
 
 The village of Tete is built on a long slope down to < ha 
 
406 tete: its population 
 
 river, the fort be.ng close to the water. The rock beneath 
 Is gray sandstone, and has the appearance of being crashed 
 away from the river: the strata have thus a crumpled 
 form. The hollow between each crease is a street, the 
 houses bein^ built upon the projecting fold. The rocks at 
 the top of the slope are much higher than the fort, and, of 
 Bourse, completely command it. There is then a large 
 valley, and beyond that an oblong hill called Karueira. 
 There are about thirty European houses: the rest are 
 native, and of wattle and daub. A wall about ten feet 
 high is intended to enclose the village ; but most of the 
 native inhabitants prefer to live on different spots outside. 
 There are about twelve hundred huts in all, which with 
 European households would give a population of about 
 four thousand five hundred souls. Only a small proportion 
 of these, however, live on the spot; the majority are on- 
 gaged in agricultural operations in the adjacent country. 
 Generally there are not more than two thousand people 
 resident, for, compared with what it was, Tcto is now a 
 ruin. The number of Portuguese is very small ; if wo ex- 
 slude the military, it is under twenty. Lately, however, 
 one hundred and five soldiers were sent from Portugal tc 
 Senna, where in one year twenty-five were cut off by fever 
 They were then removed to Tete; and hero they enjoy 
 much better health, though, from the abundance of spirits 
 distilled from various plants, wild fruits, and grain, in 
 which pernicious beverage they largely indulge, besides 
 partaking chiefly of unwholesome native food, better health 
 could scarcely have been expected. The natives hero un- 
 derstand the method of distillation by means of gun-barrels 
 and a succession of earthen pots filled with water to keep 
 them cool. The general report of the fever here is that, 
 while at Kilimane the fever is continuous, at Tcto a man 
 recovers in about three days. The mildest remedies only 
 are used at first, and, if that period be passed, then the 
 more severe. 
 The fort of Teto has been the salvation of the Fortuguoee 
 
DECADENCE OP POKTUGUESE POWER. 407 
 
 • 
 
 power in this quarter. It is a small square building, with 
 a thatched apartment for the residence of the troops ; and, 
 though there are but few guns, they are in a much better 
 Btate than those of any fort in the interior of Angola 
 llio eause of the decadence of the Portuguese power in 
 this region is simply this : — In fbrmer times, considerable 
 quantities of grain, as wheat, millet, and maize, were ex- 
 ported ; also cofTee, sugar, oil, and indigo, besides gold-dust 
 and ivory. The cultivation of grain was carried on by 
 means of slaves, of whom the Portuguese possessed a large 
 number. The gold-dust was procured by washing at various 
 points on the north, south, and west of Teto. A merchant 
 took all his slaves with him to the washings, carrying as 
 much calico and other goods as ho could muster. On 
 arriving at the washing-place, he made a present to the 
 chief of the value of about a pound sterling. The slaves 
 wore then divided into parties, each headed by a confiden- 
 tial servant, who not only had the supervision of his squad 
 while the washing went on, but bought dust from the inhabit- 
 ants and made a weeklyreturn to his master. When several 
 masters united at one spot, it was called a " Bara ;" and 
 they then erected a temporary church, in which a priest 
 from one of the missions performed mass. Both chiefs 
 and people were favorable to these visits, because the 
 traders purchased grain for the sustenance of the slaves 
 with the goods they had brought. They continued at this 
 labor until the whole of the goods were expended ; and by 
 this means about one hundred and thirty pounds of gold 
 were annually produced. Probably more than this was 
 actually obtained, but, as it was an article easily secreted, 
 this alone was submitted to the authorities for taxation. At 
 present the whole amount of gold obtained annually by 
 the Portuguese is from eight to ten pounds only. When 
 the slave-trade began, it seemed to many of the merchants 
 a more speedy mode of becoming rich to sell off the slaves 
 than to pursue the slow mode of gold-washing and agricul- 
 tura, and they continued to export them until they had 
 
408 TETE PLUNDERED AND BURNED. 
 
 neither hands to labor nor to fight fbr them. It was just 
 the story of the goose and the golden egg. The coffee 
 and sugar plantations and gold-washings ■were abandoned, 
 because the labor had been exported to the Brazils. Many 
 of the Portuguese then followed their slaves, and the 
 Government was obliged to pass a law to prevent further 
 emigration, which, had it gone on, would have depopu< 
 lated the Portuguese possessions altogether. A clover 
 man of Asiatic (Goa) and Portuguese extraction, called 
 Nyaude, now built a stockade at the confluence of the 
 Luenya and Zambesi ; and, when the commandant of Toto 
 sent an officer with his company to summon him to his 
 presence, Nyaude asked permission of the officer to dress 
 himself, which being granted, ho wont into an inner apart- 
 ment, and the officer ordered his men to pile their arms. 
 A drum of war began to beat a note which is well known 
 to the inhabitants. Some of the soldiers took the alarm 
 on hearing this note; but the officer, disregarding their 
 warning, was, with his whole party, in a few minutes dis- 
 armed and bound hand and foot. The commandant of 
 Tote then armed the whole body of slaves and marched 
 against the stockade of Nyaude ; but when they came near 
 to it there was the Luenya still to cross. As they did not 
 effect this speedily, Nyaude despatched a strong party 
 under his son Bonga across the river below the stockade, 
 and up the left bank of the Zambesi until thoy came neai 
 to Tete. They then attacked Tcto, which was whoUy un- 
 defended save by a fbw soldiers in the fort, plundered and 
 burned the whole town except the house of the command- 
 lint and a few others, with the church and fort. The 
 women and children fled into the church ; and it is a ro- 
 markable fact that none of the natives of this region will 
 ever attack a church. Having rendered Tete a ruin, Bonga 
 carried off ,all the cattle and plunder to his father. News 
 of this having been brought to the army before the stock. 
 nde, a sadden panic dispersed the whole ; and, as the fugi- 
 tivoB took roundabout ways in their flight, Katolosa, who 
 
SEAMS 01' COAL. 409 
 
 and hitherto pretended to bo friendly with the Poituguose, 
 ecnt out his men to capturo as many of thorn as thoy could. 
 Thoy killed many for the sake of thoir arms. This is the 
 account which both natives and Portuguese give of the 
 \ffair. 
 
 The merchants were unable to engage in trade, and com 
 siorce, which the slave-trade had rendered stagnant, was 
 now completely obstructed. The present commandant of 
 Tete, Major Sicard, having great influence among tho 
 natives, from his good character, put a stop to the war 
 more than once by his mere presence on the spot. Wo 
 hear(i of him among the Banyai as a man with whom they 
 would never fight, because " he had a good heart." Had 
 I come down to this coast instead of going to Loanda in 
 1853, 1 should have come among the belligerents while the 
 war was still raging, and should probably have been cut 
 off. My present approach was just at the conclusion of 
 the peace; and when the Portuguese authorities here 
 wore informed, through the kind ofiSces of Lord Clarendon 
 and Count do Lavradio, that I was expected to come this 
 way, they all declared that such was tho existing state of 
 affairs that no European could possibly pass through the 
 tribes. Somo natives at last came down the river to Tete 
 and said, alluding to tho sextant and artificial horizon, 
 that " tho Son of God had come," and that he was " able 
 to take the siin down from the heavens and place it under 
 his arm !" Major Sicard then felt sure that this was tho 
 man mentioned in Lord Clarendon's despatch. 
 
 On mentioning to the commandant that I had discovered 
 a small scam of coal, he stated that the Portuguese were 
 already aware of nine such seams, and that five of them 
 were on the opposite bank of the river. As soon as I had 
 recovered from my fatigue I wont to examine them. W« 
 proceeded in a boat to the mouth of tho Lofiibu or Eevubu 
 which is about two miles below Tete and on tho opposite 
 or northern bank. Ascending this about four miles against 
 a strong current of beautifully-clear water, wo landed neai 
 
410 HOT SPRINGS. 
 
 a small cataract, and walked about two miles through very 
 fortilo gardens to the seam, which we found to be in one 
 of the feeders of the Lofubu, called Muatize or Motizo. 
 The seam is in the perpendicular bank, and dips into the 
 rivulet, or in a northerly direction. There is, first of all, 
 a seam ten inches in diameter, then some shale, belon 
 which there is another seam, fifty-eight inches of which 
 are seen, and, as the bottom touches the water of the 
 Muatize, it may bo more. This part of the scam is about 
 thirty yards long. There is then a fault. About one 
 hundred yards higher up the stream, black vesicular trap 
 is seen, penetrating in thin veins the clay shale of the 
 country, converting it into porcellanite, and partially 
 crystallizing the coal with which it came into contact. 
 On the right bank of the Lofubu there is another feodci 
 entering that river near its confluence with the Muatize, 
 which is called the Morongozi, in which there is another 
 and still larger bed of coal exposed. Farther up the Lo- 
 fubu there are other seams in the rivulets Inyavu and 
 Makarej also several spots in the Maravi country have 
 the coal cropping out. This has evidently been brought to 
 the surface by volcanic action at a later period than the 
 coal-formation . 
 
 I also went up the Zambesi, and visited a hot spring 
 called Nyamboronda, situated in the bed of a small rivulet 
 named Nyaondo, which shows that igneous action is not 
 yet extinct. We landed at a small rivulet called Moko- 
 rozi, then went a mile or two to the eastward, where we 
 found a hot fountain at the bottom of a high hill. A little 
 npring bubbles up on one side of the rivulet Nyaondo, and 
 a groat quantity of acrid steam rises up from the ground 
 adjacent, about twelve feet square of which is so hot that 
 my companions could -not stand on it with their bare feet. 
 There are several little holes from which the water 
 trickles; but the principal spring is in a hole a foot in 
 diameter and about the same in depth. Numbers of 
 bubbles are constantly rising. The steam feels acrid in 
 
0OAL-SEAM8. 411 
 
 the throat, but is not inflammable, as it did not bum when 
 I held a bunch of lighted grass over the bubbles. The 
 mercury rises to 158° when the thermometer is put into 
 the water in the hole; but after a few seconds it stands 
 steadily at 160°. Even when flowing over the stones the 
 water is too hot for the hand. Little fish frequently leap 
 out of the stream in the bod of which the fountain rises, 
 into the hot water, and get scalded to death. We saw a 
 frog which had performed the experiment and was now 
 cooked. The stones over which the water flows are in- 
 crusted with a white salt, and the water has a saline taste. 
 The ground has been dug out near the fountain by the 
 natives, in order- to extract the salt it contains. It ia 
 situated among rocks of sycnitic poi-phyry in broad dikes, 
 and gneiss tilted on edge and having a strike to the N.B. 
 There are many specimens of half-formed pumico, with 
 greenstone and lava. Some of the sandstone strata are 
 dislocated by a hornblende rock and by basalt, the sand 
 stone nearest to the basalt being converted into quartz. 
 
 The country around, as indeed all the district lying N. 
 and N.W. of Tete, is hUly, and, the hills being covered 
 with trees, the scenery is very picturesque. The soil of 
 the valleys is very fruitful and well cultivated. There 
 would not bo much difliculty in working the coal. The 
 Lofubu is about sixty yards broad : it flows iierennially, 
 and at its very lowest period, which is after September, 
 there is water about eightotsn inches deep, which could bo 
 navigated in flat-bottomed boats. At the time of my visit 
 it was full, and the current was very strong. If the small 
 cataract referred to wore to bo avoided, the land-carriage 
 beyond would only be about two miles. The other seams 
 farther up the river may, after passing the cataract, bo 
 approached more easily than that in the Muatize : as the 
 seam, however, dips down into the stream, no drainage 
 of the mino would be required^ for if water were come to 
 it would run into the 8tre3.n> I did not visit the others, 
 but 1 was informed that there are seams in the independent 
 
412 WORKMEN'S WAGES. 
 
 Dativo territory as well as in that of the Portugucs: That 
 in the Nako is in the Banyai country ; and, indeed, i have 
 no doubt but that the whole country between Zumbo and 
 Lupata is a coal-field of at least two and a half degrees 
 of latitude in breadth, having many faults, made during 
 the time of the igneous action. The gray sandstone rock^ 
 having silicilicd trees lying on it, is of these dimensiona 
 The plantation in which the scam of coal exists would be 
 valued among the Portuguese at about CO dollars, or £12 ; 
 but much more would probably bo asked if a wealthy pur- 
 chaser appeared. They could not, however, raise the price 
 very much higher, because estates containing coal might 
 bo had from the native owners at a much cheaper rate. 
 The wages of free laborers, when employed in such work 
 as gold-washing, agriculture, or digging coal, is two yards 
 of unbleached caUco per day. ■ They might bo got to work 
 much cheaper if engaged by the moon, or for about sixteen 
 yards per month. For masons and carpenters even, the 
 ordinary rate is two yards per day. This is called one 
 bra^a. Tradesmen from Kilimane demand four bragas, or 
 eight yards, per day. English or American unbleached 
 calico is the only currency used. The carriage of goods 
 np the river to Tete adds about ten per cent, to their cost. 
 The usual conveyance is by means of very large canoes 
 and launches built at Senna. 
 
 The amount of merchandise brought up during the five 
 months of peace previous to my visit was of the value 
 of 30,000 dollars, or about £6000. The annual supply of 
 goods for trade is about £15,000, — being calico, thick 
 brass wire, beads, gunpowder, and guns. The quantity 
 of the latter is, however, small, as the Government of 
 Mozambique made that article contraband after the com 
 mencoment of the war. Goods, when traded with ia the 
 tribes around the Portuguese, produce a profit of only 
 about ten per cent., the articles traded in being ivory and 
 gold-dust. A little oil and wheat are exported, but nothing 
 else. Trade with the tribes beyond the exclusive onee is 
 
TRADE — PEIOES. 413 
 
 much better. Thirty brass rings cost 10s. at Senna, £1 at 
 Tote, and £2 beyond the tribes in the vicinity of Tete : 
 those are a good price for a penful of gold-dust of the 
 value of £2. The plantations of coffee, which, previous to 
 tho commencement of the slave-trade, yielded one material 
 for exportation, are now deserted, and it is difficult to find 
 a single tree. The indigo {Indigofera argentea, the commop 
 wild indigo of Africa) is found growing everywhere, and 
 large quantities of the senna-plant* grow in the village 
 of Toto and other parts; but neither indigo nor senna is 
 collected. Calumba-root, which is found in abundance in 
 some parts farther down the river, is bought by the 
 Americans, it is said, to use as a dye-stuff. A kind of 
 sarsaparilla, or a plant which is believed by the Portu- 
 guese to bo such, is found from Lorida to Senna, but has 
 never been exported. 
 
 The price of provisions is low, but very much higher 
 than previous to the commencement of the war. Two 
 yards of calico are demanded for sis fowls : this is con- 
 sidered very dear, because before the war the same quan- 
 tity of calico was worth twenty-four fowls. Grain is sold 
 in little bags made from the leaves of the palmyra, like 
 those in which we receive sugar. They are called panjas ; 
 and each panja weighs between thirty and forty pounds. 
 The panja of wheat at Tete is worth a dollar, or five shil- 
 lings ; but the native grain may be obtained among the is- 
 lands below Lupata at the rate of three panjas for two yards 
 of calico. The highest articles of consumption are tea and 
 coffee, the tea being often as high as fifteen shillings a pound. 
 Food is cheaper down the river below Lupata, and previous 
 to tho war tho islands which stud the Zambesi were all in- 
 habited, and, the soil being exceedingly fertile, grain and 
 fowls could be got to any amount. The inhabitants disap- 
 peared before their enemies the Landeens, but are beginning 
 
 * These appear to belong to Cattia acutifolia, or truo senna of oom- 
 aterce, found in various parts of Africa aud India. — Dr. Hooker. 
 
 36* 
 
414 aOLD-WASUING. 
 
 to return since the peace. They have no cattle, tho ontj 
 place wlicre wo found no tsetse being tho dis-rict of Tcti 
 itself J and tho cattle in the possession of tho Portuguese 
 are a mere remnant of what they formerly owned. 
 
 When visiting the hot fountain, I examined what were 
 formerly tho gold- washings in tho rivulet Mokoroze, which 
 ifl nearly on tho 16th parallel of latitude. The banks are 
 covered with largo groves of fine mango-trees, among which 
 tho Portuguese lived while superintending the washing fo7 
 tho precious metal. The process of washing is very labo- 
 rious and tedious. A quantity of sand is put into a woodop 
 bowl with water : a half-rotatory motion is given to the 
 dish, which causes tho coarser particles of sand to collect 
 on one side of tho bottom. These arc carefully removed 
 with tho hand, and the process of rotation renewed until 
 tho whole of the sand is taken away and the gold alone 
 remains. It is found in very minute scales, and, unless 1 
 had been assured to tho contrary, I should have taken it to 
 bo mica ; fbr, knowing tho gold to be of greater specific 
 gravity than tho sand, I imagined that a stream of water 
 would remove the latter and leave the former; but hero 
 tho practice is to remove the whole of tho sand by tho 
 hand. This process was no doubt a profitable one to the 
 Portuguese, and it is probable that, with the improved plan 
 by means of mercury, the sands would be lucrative. I had 
 an opportunity of examining the gold-dust from different 
 parts to the cast and northeast of Tote. There are six 
 well-known washing-places. These are called Mashinga, 
 Shindundo, Missala, Kapata, Mano, and Jawa. Prom the 
 description of tho rock I received, I suppose gold is found 
 both in clay shale and in quartz. At the range Mushinga 
 to tho N.N. W. the rock is said to be so soft that tho womee 
 pound it into powder in wooden mortars previous to wash- 
 ing. 
 
 Bound toward the westward, tho old Portuguese indicate 
 a station which was near to Zumbo on tho river Panyarao 
 and called Dambarari, near which much gold was found 
 
BXTENI or THE QOLB-BEQION 415 
 
 Farther west lay th^ now unknown kingdom of Abutna, 
 which was formerly famous for the metal; and then, coming 
 round toward the east, wo have the gold-washings of the 
 Mashona, or Baziziilu, and, farther east, that of Manica, 
 where gold is found much more abundantly than in any 
 other part, and which has been supposed by some to bo the 
 Ophir of King Solomon. I saw the gold from this quartoi 
 as large as grains of wheat, that found in the rivers which 
 run into the coal-field being in very minute scales. If we 
 place one log of the compasses at Tetc, and extend the 
 other three and a half degrees, bringing it round from the 
 northeast of Tote by west, and then to the southeast, we 
 o»arly touch or include all the known gold-producing coun- 
 try. As the gold on this circumference is found in coarser 
 grains than in the streams running toward the centre or 
 Tete, I imagine that the real gold-field lies round about the 
 coal-field; and, if I am right in the conjecture, then wo 
 have coal encircled by a gold-field, and abundance of wood, 
 water, and provisions, — a combination not often met with 
 in the world. The inhabitants are not unfavorable to 
 'bashings conducted on tho principle formerly mentioned. 
 At present they wash only when in want of a little calico. 
 They know the value of gold perfectly well; for they 
 bring it for sale in goose-quills, and demand twenty-foui 
 yards of calico for one penful. 
 
 Major Sicard, the commandant, whose kindness to me 
 and my people was unbounded, presented a rosary made 
 of the gold of tho country, the workmanship of a native 
 of Tete, to my little daughter, — also specimens of tho gold- 
 dust of three difierent places, which, with the coal of 
 Muatizo and Morongoze, are deposited in the Museum erf 
 Practical Geology, Jermyn Street, London. 
 
 All the cultivation is carried on with hoes in the native 
 manner, and considerable quantities of Holcus sorghum, 
 maizo, Pennisetum typhoideum, or lotsa of tho Balonda, 
 millet, rico, and wheat are raised, as also several kinds oJ 
 beans, — one of wh ch, called " litloo" by the Bechuanaa, 
 
{16 LIBEEALirr OV COMMANDANT. 
 
 yields under ground, as well as the^Arachis hypogoea, or 
 ^oundnut; with cucumbers, pumpkins, and melons. The 
 wheat is sown in low-lying places which are annually 
 Soodod by the Zambesi. When the waters retire, the 
 women drop a few grains in a hole made with a hoe, then 
 push back the soil with the foot. One weeding alone is 
 required before the grain comes to maturity. This simple 
 process represents all our sub-soil ploughing, liming, ma 
 nuring, and harrowing, for in four months after planting a 
 good crop is ready for the sickle, and has been known t» 
 yield a hundred-fold. It flourished still more at Zumbb. 
 No irrigation is required, because hero there are gentle 
 rains, almost like mist, in winter, which go by the name 
 of "wheat-showers," and are unknown in the interior, 
 where no winter rain ever falls. The rains at Teto come 
 from the east, though the prevailing winds come from the 
 S.S.E. The finest portion of the flour docs not maV-i 
 broad nearly so white as the seconds, and here the boyaloa, 
 (pombc,) or native beer, is employed to mix with the floui 
 instead of yeast. It naakes excellent bread. AtKilimane, 
 where the cocoanut-palm abounds, the toddy from it, called 
 " sura," is used for the same purpose, and makes the bread 
 still lighter. 
 
 As it was necessary to leave most of my men at this 
 place. Major Sicard gave them a portion of land on which 
 to cultivate their own food, generously supplying them 
 with corn in the mean time. He also said that my young 
 men might go and hunt elephants in ' company with his 
 servants, and purchase goods wHh both the ivory and dried 
 moat, in order that they might have something to take with 
 them on their return to Sokeletu. The men were delighted 
 with his liberality, and soon sixty or seventy of them sot 
 off to engage in this enterprise. There was no calico to be 
 had at this time in Tete, but the commandant handsomely 
 famished my men with clothing. I was in a state of want 
 myself; and, though I pressed him to take payment in 
 Ivory for both myself and men, I'c refused all recompense 
 
OEOGUAPniCAL INFORMATION 417 
 
 1 flhall over rcmcrabor his kindness -with deep gratitado 
 Ho has written mo, since my arrival in England, that mj 
 men had killed four elephants in the course of two montht 
 after my departure. 
 
 On the day of my arrival I was visited by all the gentl©- 
 men of the village, both white and colored, including the 
 padro. Not one of them had any idea as to where the 
 source of tho Zambesi lay. They sent for the best-travelled 
 natives j but none of tnom know the river even as far as 
 Kansala. The father of one of the rebels who had boon 
 fighting against thom had been a great traveller to tho 
 southwest, and had even hoard of our visit to Lake Ngami; 
 but ho was equally ignorant with all tho others that the 
 Zambesi flowed in the centre of the country. They had, 
 however, more knowledge of tho country to tho north of 
 Tote than I had. One man, who had gone to Cazombo 
 with Major Monteiro, stated that ho had scon tho Luapura 
 or Loapula flowing past tho town of that chieftain into the 
 Luameji or Loeambye, but imagined that it found its way, 
 somehow or other, into Angola. Tho fact that sometimes 
 rivers were seen to flow like this toward tho centre of the 
 country led geographers to tho supposition that Inner 
 Africa was composed of elovatcd sandy plains, into which 
 rivers ran and wore lost. One of the gentlemen present, 
 Sonhor Candido, had visited a lake forty-five days to tho 
 N.N.W. of Tcto, which is probably the Lake Maravi of 
 geographers, as in going thither they pass through tho 
 people of that name. Tho inhabitants of its southern coast 
 are named Shiva, those on the north, Mujao ; and they call 
 the lake Nyanja or Nyanjo, which simply means a larg« 
 water, or bod of a largo river. A high mountain stands 
 in the middle of it, called Murombo or Murombola, which 
 is inhabited by people who have much cattle. He stated 
 that ho crossed tho Nyanja at a narrow part, and wai 
 thirty-six hours in the passage. The eanoes were punted 
 the wholo way, and, if we take the rate about two miles 
 per hour, it n>«y bo sixty or seventy miles in breadth. The 
 
41 ?< THE SQIRE — EAKTHQTJAKES. 
 
 ooautiy all round was composed of level plains covei-ed 
 with grass, and, indeed, in going thither they travollod 
 Bovon or eight days -without wood, and cooked their food 
 with grass and stalks of native corn alone. The people 
 sold their cattle at a very cheap rate. From the southern 
 extremity of the lake two rivers issue forth : one, named 
 after itself, the Ifyanja, w:hich passes into the sea on the 
 east coast under another name; and the Shire, which flows 
 into the Zambesi a little below Senna. The Shire is named 
 Shirwa at its point of departure from the lake, and Senhor 
 Candido was informed, when there, that the lake was sim- 
 ply an expansion of the river Nyanja, which comes from 
 the north and encircles the mountain Murdmbo, the mean- 
 ing of which is junction or union, in reference to the water 
 having parted at its northern extremity and united again 
 at its southern. The Shire flows through a low, flat, 
 ra.arstiy country, but abounding in population, and they 
 are said to bo bravo. The Portuguese are unable to navi- 
 gate the Shire up to the Lake Nyanja, because of the great 
 abundance of a water-plant which requires no soil, and 
 which they name "alfacinya" (Pistia stratiotes) from its 
 resemblance to a lettuce. This completely obstructs the 
 progress of canoes. In confirmation of this, 1 may state 
 uhat, when I passed the mouth of the Shire, great qnanti- 
 tios of this same plant were floating from it into the Zam 
 6o8i, and many parts of the banks below wore covered 
 with the dead plants. 
 
 Sonhor Candido stated that slight earthquakes have h.ip- 
 pened several times in the country of the Maravi, and at 
 no groat distance from Tote. The motion seems to come 
 from the eastward and never to have lasted more than a 
 few seconds. They are named in the Maravi tongue 
 "shiwo," and in that of the people of Toto " shitakot6ko," 
 or "shivering." This agrees exactly with what has taken 
 place in the coast of Mozambique, — a few slight shocks of 
 ahort duration, and all appearing to come from the cast 
 At Senna, too, a single shock has boon felt several times. 
 
KINDNESS OF PuKTUaTJEHK 419 
 
 frhich sliook tho doors and windows and made tho glasses 
 jingle. Both Teto and Senna have hot springs in thei- 
 ricinity, but tho shocks seemed to come, not from thoia, 
 but from the east, and proceed to the west. They are pro 
 bably connected with tho active volcanoes in tho island of 
 Bourbon. 
 
 Having waited a month for tho commencement of th« 
 healthy season at Kilimano, I would have started at the 
 beginning of April, but tarried a fow days, in order that the 
 moon might make her appearance and enable me to take 
 lunar observations on my way down the river. A sudden 
 change of temperatmo happening on tho 4th, simultane- 
 ously with the appearance of the new moon, the command ■ 
 ant and myself, with nearly every person in the house, 
 were laid up with a severe attack of fever. I soon re- 
 covered by the use of my wonted remedies; but Major 
 Sicard and his little boy were confined much longer. 
 There was a general fall of 4° of temperature from the 
 middle of March, 84° at 9 a.m., and 87" at 9 p.m.,— the 
 greatest heat being 90° at mid-day, and the lowest 81° at 
 sunrise. It afforded me pleasure to attend the mvalias in 
 their sickness, — though I was unable to show a tithe of the 
 gratitude I felt for the commandant's increasing kindness. 
 
 Tho commandant provided for the journey most abun- 
 dantly, and gave orders to Lieutenant Miranda that I 
 should not be allowed to pay for any thing all the way to 
 the coast, and sent messages to his friends Scnhors Ferrao, 
 Isidore, Ascvcdo, and Nunes, to treat me as thoy would 
 himself. From every one of these gentlemen I am happy 
 to acknowledge that I received most disinterested kind- 
 ness, and I ought to speak well forever of Portuguese hos- 
 pitality. I have noted each little act of civility received, 
 because, somehow or other, we have come to hold the Por- 
 tuguese character in rather a low estimation. This may 
 have arisen partly from the pertinacity with which some 
 of them have pursued the slave-trade, and partly from the 
 tontrast which they now offer to their illustrious anoostors, 
 
420 THE REBEL BONGA. 
 
 — ^the foremost navigators of the world. If my specification 
 of their kindnesses will tend to engender a more rcspectfol 
 feeling to the nation, I shall consider myself woU rewarded. 
 Wo had three largo canoes in the company which had lately 
 eome up with goods from Senna. They are made very 
 large and strong, much larger than any we ever saw in the 
 interior, and might strike with great force against a rock 
 and not be broken. The men sit at the stern when pad- 
 dling, and there is usually a little shed made over a part of 
 the canoe to shade the passengers from the sun. Tho boat 
 in which I went was furnished with such a covering; so 1 
 sat quite comfoi'tably. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 Oa. UVINOSTONE REACHES THE EAST COAST AND RETURNS 
 TO ENGLAND. 
 
 We left Tete at noon on the 22d, and in the afternoon 
 arrived at tho garden of Scnhor A. Manoel de Gomez, son- 
 in-law and nephew of Bonga. The Commandant of Tete 
 had sent a letter to tho rebel Bonga, stating that he ought 
 to treat me kindly, and he had deputed his son-in-law to 
 be my host. Bonga is not at all equal to his father Ny- 
 ande, who was a man of great ability. He is also in bad 
 odor with tho Portuguese, because ho receives all runaway 
 slaves and criminals. He does not trust tho Portuguese, 
 •nd is reported to be excessively superstitious. I found 
 his son-in-law, Manoel, extremely friendly, and able to con- 
 Terse in a very intelligent manner. He was in his garden 
 when we arrived, but soon dressed himself respectably 
 and gave us a good tea and dinner. After a breakfast of 
 tea, roasted eggs, and biscuits next morning, he presented 
 Biz fowls and three goats as provision for the journey. 
 
WAR-DRUM AT 8HIRAMBA. 421 
 
 When we parted from him, we passed the stcckado ol 
 Bonga at the confluence of the Luonya, but did not gu 
 near it, as he is said to bo very suspicious. The PortugueBO 
 advised me not to take any observation, as the instrumenta 
 might awaken fears in Bonga's mind, but Manoel said I 
 might do so if I wished : his garden, however, being above 
 the confluence, could not avail as a geographical point 
 There are some good houses in the stockade. The trees of 
 which it is composed seemed to me to be living, and could 
 not be burned. It was strange to see a stockade menacing 
 the whole commerce of the river in a situation where the 
 guns of a vessel would have full play on it ; but it is a 
 formidable affair for those who have only muskets. On 
 one occasion, when Nyaude was attacked by Kisaka, they 
 fought for weeks; and, though Nyaude was reduced to 
 cutting up his copper anklets for balls, his enemies were 
 not able to enter the stockade. 
 
 We sailed on quickly with the current of the river, and 
 found that it spread out to more than two miles in breadth : 
 it is, however, full of islands, which are generally covered 
 with reeds, and which previous to the war were inhabited 
 and yielded vast quantities of grain. Wo usually landed 
 to cook breakfast, and then went on quickly. 
 
 Next day wo landed at Shiramba for breakfast, having 
 sailed eight and a half hours from Lupata. This was once 
 the residence of a Portuguese brigadier, who spent large 
 sums of money in embellishing his house and gardens: 
 these we found in entire ruin, as his half-caste son had 
 destroyed all, and then rebelled against the Portuguese, 
 but with less success than either Nyaude or Kisaka, for h« 
 had been seized and sent a prisoner to Mozambique a short 
 time before our visit. All the southern shore has been 
 ravaged by the Caffres, who are here named Landeens; 
 and most of the inhabitants who remain acknowledge the 
 authority of Bonga and not of the Portuguese. When at 
 breakfast, the people of Shiramba commenced beating the 
 dmm of war. Lieutenant Miranda, who was well ae- 
 
 36 
 
422 benna: its etjinocs statjb 
 
 qnainted with tho castoms of the country, immediately 
 started to his feet and got all tho soldiers of our party 
 andor arms : he then demanded of tho natives why the 
 drum was beaten while wo wore there. They gave an 
 evasive reply; and, as they employ this means of collectr 
 iiig their neighbors when they intend to rob canoes, oui 
 watchfulness may have prevented their proceeding further. 
 
 "Wo spent tho night of the 26th on the island called 
 Nkuesi, opposite a remarkable saddle-shaped mountain, 
 and found that we were just on the seventeenth .parallel 
 of latitude. The sail down tho river was very fine ; tho 
 temperature becoming low, it was pleasant to the feelings ; 
 but, the shores being flat and far from us, the scenery was 
 uninteresting. We breakfasted on the 27th at Pita, and 
 found some half-caste Portuguese had established them- 
 selves there, after fleeing irom tho opposite bank to escape 
 Kisaka's people, who were now ravaging all tho Maganja 
 country. On tho afternoon of the 27th we arrived at 
 Sonna. (Commandant Isidore's house, three hundred 
 yards S.W. of tho mud-fort on tho banks of the river: 
 lat. 17° 27' 1" S., long. 35° 10' E.) We found Sonna to be 
 twenty-threo and a half hours' sail from Tctc. 
 
 I thought the state of Tote quite lamentable; but that of 
 Sonna was ten times worse. At Tete there is some life : 
 here every thing is in a state of stagnation and ruin. The 
 fort, built of sun-dried bricks, has the grass growing over 
 tho walls, which have been patched in some places by 
 paling. Tho Landeens visit the village periodically and 
 levy fines upon the inhabitants, as they consider the Por- 
 caguose a conquered tribe, and very rarely does a native 
 oomo to trade. Senhor Isidore, the commandant, a man 
 (rf considerable energy, had proposed to surround tho whole 
 village with palisades as a protection against tho Landeons, 
 and tho villagers were to begin this work tho day after I 
 left. It was sad to look at the ruin manifest in every 
 bsilding; but the half-castes appear to bo in league with 
 the rebels and Landeens ; for when any attempt is made 
 
BOAT-BUILDING. 4^3 
 
 by the Portuguese to coerce the enemy or defend thom- 
 Belvos, information is conveyed at once to the Landoen 
 camp, and, though the commandant prohibits the payment 
 of tribute to the Jjandcens, on their approach the half- 
 castes eagerly ransom themselves. 
 
 The village of Senna stands on the right bank of the 
 Zambesi. There are many reedy islands in front of it, 
 and there is much bush in the country adjacent. The aoil 
 is fertile; but the village, being in a state of ruin, and 
 having several pools of stagnant water, is very unhealthy. 
 
 The most pleasant sight I witnessed at Senna was the 
 aegroes of Senhor Isidore building boats after the European 
 model, without any one to superintend their operations. 
 They had been instructed by a European master, but now 
 go into the forest and cut down the motondo-trces, lay 
 down the keel, fit in the ribs, and make very neat boats 
 and launches, valued at from £20 to £100. Senhor Isidore 
 had some of them instructed also in carpentry at Rio 
 Janeiro, and they constructed for him the handsomest 
 house in Kilimanc, the woodwork being all of country 
 trees, some of which are capable of a fine polish, ana very 
 durable. 
 
 On the 9th of May sixteen of my men were employed to 
 carry Government goods in canoes up to Tetc. They were 
 much pleased at getting this work. On the 11th the whole 
 of the inhabitants of Senna, with the commandant, accom- 
 panied us to the boats. A venerable old man, son of a 
 judge, said they were in much sorrow on account of the 
 miserable state of decay into which they had sunk, and of 
 the insolent conduct of the people of Kisaka now in the 
 village. "We were abundantly supplied with provisions by 
 tho commandant and Senhor Ferrao, and sailed pleasantly 
 down the broad river. Aboat thirty miles below Senna 
 we passed the mouth of the river Zangwe on our right, 
 which farther up goes by the name of Pungwe j and about 
 five miles farther on our left, close to the end of a low 
 renj^ into which Morumbala merges, wo erossod th* 
 
424 EFFECTS DP FEVER. 
 
 mouth of the Shire, which seemod to be about two hundred 
 yards broad. 
 
 A few miles beyond the Shiro wo left the hills entirely 
 and sailed between extensive flats. The banks seen in th 
 distance are covered with trees. We slept on a largo iu 
 habited island, and then camo to the entrance of the river 
 Mutu, (latitude 18° 3' 37" S., longitude 35° 46' B. :) the point 
 of departure is called Mazaro, or "mouth of the Mutu." 
 
 I was seized by a severe tertian fever at Mazaro, but 
 went along the right bank of the Mutu to the N.N.E. and 
 B. for about fifteen miles. We then found that it was made 
 navigable by a river called the Pangazi, which comes into 
 it from the north. 
 
 My fever became excessively severe in consequence of 
 travellipg in the hot sun, and the long grass blocking up 
 the narrow path so as to exclude the air. The j)ulse beat 
 with amazing force, and felt as if thumping against the 
 crown of the head. The stomach and spleen swelled onor 
 mously, — giving me, for the first time, an appearance which 
 I had been disposed to laugh at among the Portuguese. 
 At Intorra wo mot Soiihor Asovodo, a man who is well 
 known by all who over visited Xilimano, and who was pre- 
 sented with a gold chronometer watch by the Admiralty 
 for his attentions to English officers. Ho immediately 
 tendered his large sailing-launch, which had a house in the 
 item. This was greatly in my favor, for it anchored in 
 the middle of the stream, and gave me some rest from the 
 mosquitos, which in the whole of the delta are something 
 frightful. Sailing comfortably in this commodious launch 
 along the river of Kilimane, we reached that village (lati- 
 tude 17° 53' 8" S., longitude 36° 40' B.) on the "iOth of 
 May, 1856, which wanted only a few days of being four 
 ^ears since I started from Capo Town. Here I was ro- 
 oeived into the house of Colonel Galdina Jose Nunes, one 
 of the best men in the country. I had been three yean 
 without hearing from my family, — ^letters having been 
 frequently sent, but somehow or other, with but a single 
 
THX AUTHOR'S OBLIOATIONS 42i) 
 
 exception, thoy never reached mo. I received, however, a 
 letter &om Admiral Trotter, convoying information of their 
 welfare, and some newspapers, which were a treat indeed. 
 Her majesty's brig the " Frolic" had caUod to inquire foi 
 me in the November previous, and Captain NoUuth, of 
 that ship, had most consider^itoly left a case of wind ; and 
 his surgeon, Dr. James Walsh, divining what I should need 
 most, left an ounce of quinine. These gifts made my heart 
 overflow. I had not tasted any liquor whatever during the 
 time I had boon in Africa ; but, when reduced in Angola to 
 extreme weakness, I found much benefit from a little wine, 
 and took from Loanda one bottle of brandy in my medi- 
 cine-chest, intending to use it if it wore again required; 
 but the boy who carried it whirled the box upside-down 
 and smashed the bottle, so that I cannot give my testimony 
 either in favor of or against the brandy. 
 
 But my joy on reaching the cast coast was sadly embit- 
 tered by the news that Commander MacLune, of H.M. 
 brigantino "Dart," on coming in to Ealimano to pick me 
 ap, had, with Lieutenant Woodruffo and five men, been lost 
 on the bar. I never felt more poignant sorrow. It seemed 
 as if it would have boon easier for mo to have died for them 
 than that they should all bo cut off from the joys of life in 
 generously attempting to render mo a service. I would 
 here acknowledge my deep obligations to the Earl of Cla- 
 tendon, to the admiral at the Capo, and others, for the kind 
 Interest they manifested in my safety : oven the inquiries 
 made were very much to my advantage. I also refer with 
 feelings of gratitude to the Governor of Mozambique for 
 offering me a passage in the schooner "Zambesi," belonging 
 to that province; and I shall never forget the generous 
 hospitality Of Colonel Nunes and his nephew, with whom 
 1 remained. One of the discoveries I have made is that 
 there are vast numbers of good people in the world; and 
 I do most devoutly tender my unfeigned thanks to that 
 GraciouB One who mercifully watched over me in every 
 
 36* 
 
426 THE author's objects. 
 
 position and influenced the hearts of both black and white 
 to regard me with favor. 
 
 If the reader has accompanied me thus far, he may per- 
 haps be disposed to take an interest in the objects I pro- 
 pose to myself should God mercifully grant mo the honoi 
 of doing something more for Africa. As the highlands 
 on the borders of the central basin are comparatively 
 healthy, the first object seems to bo to secure a permanent 
 path thither, in order that Europeans may pass as quickly 
 as possible through the unhealthy region near the coast 
 The river has not been surveyed, but at the time I came 
 down there was abundance of water for a large vessel; and 
 this continues to be the case during four or five months of 
 each year. The months of low water still admit of naviga- 
 tion by launches, and would permit small vessels equal to 
 the Thames steamers to ply with case in the deep channel 
 If a steamer wore sent to examine the Zambesi, I woitld 
 recommend one of the lightest draught, and the months of 
 May, June, and Julj- lor passing through the delta; and 
 this not so muph for fear of want of water as the danger 
 of being grounded on a sand or mud bank and the health 
 of the crew being endangered by the delay. 
 
 In the months referred to, no obstruction would be in- 
 curred in the channel below Tete. Twenty or thirty miles 
 above that point wo have a small rapid, of which I regret 
 my inability to speak, as (mentioned already) I did not 
 visit it. But, taking the distance below this point, wo have, 
 in round numbers, three hundred miles of navigable river. 
 Above this rapid wo have another reach of three hundred 
 miles, with sand, but no mud-banks in it, which brings ni 
 to the foot of the eastern ridge. Let it not, however, be 
 thought that a vessel by going thither would return laden 
 with ivory and gold-dust. - The Portuguese of Tete pick up 
 ftll the merchandise of the tribes in their vicinity; and, 
 though I came out by traversing the people with whom the 
 Portuguese had been at war, it does not follow that it wiD 
 be porfixttly safe for others to go in whoso goods' may be a 
 
THE AUTHOR'S OBJECTS. 427 
 
 Btronger temptation to cupidity than any thing I possossed 
 VVhon we get beyond the hostile population mentioned, we 
 roach a very different race. On the latter my chief hopoa 
 at present rest. All of them, however, are willing and 
 anxious to engage in trade, and, while eager for this, none 
 have ever been encouraged to cultivate the raw materials 
 of commerce. Their country is well adapted for cotton; 
 and I venture to entertain the hope that by distributing 
 seeds of better kinds than that which is found indigenous, 
 and stimulating the natives to cultivate it by affording 
 them the certainty of a market for all they may produce, 
 we may engender a feeling of mutual dependence between 
 them and ourselves. I have a twofold object in view, and 
 believe that, by guiding our missionary labors so as to 
 benefit our own country, we shall thereby more effectually 
 and permanently benefit the heathen. Seven years were 
 spent at Kolobeng in instructing my friends there; but, the 
 country being incapable of raising materials for exportation, 
 when the 5oers made their murderous attack and scatteied 
 the tribe for a season, none sympathized except a few 
 Christian friends. Had the people of Kolobeng been in 
 the habit of raising the raw materials of English commerce, 
 the outrage would have been felt in England ; or, what is 
 more likely to have been the case, the people would have 
 raised themselves in the scale by barter, and have become, 
 ]ike the Basutos of Moshesh and people of Kuruman, po8» 
 eessed of fire-arms, and the Boers would never have made 
 the attack at all. We ought to encourage the Africans to 
 cultivate for our markets, as the most effectual means, next 
 to the gospel, of their elevation. 
 
 It is in the hope of working out this idea that I propose 
 the formation of stations on the Zambesi beyond the Por 
 taguese territory but having communication through them 
 with the coast. A chain of stations admitting of easy and 
 speedy intercourse, such as might be formed along the fiank 
 of the eastern ridge, would bo in a favorable position foi 
 carrying oat the objects in view The London Missioiuuy 
 
428 ABKANOEIIEMTS ON LEAVINO AfBIOA. 
 
 Society has resolved to have a station among the Makololo 
 on the north bank, and another on the south among the 
 Matebele. The Cburch — ^Wesloyan, Baptist, and that most 
 energetic body, the Free Church — could each find desirable 
 locations among the Batoka and adjacent tribes. The 
 country is so extensive there is no fear of clashing. All 
 classes of Christians find that sectarian rancor soon diet 
 out when they az-o working together among and for the 
 real heathen. Only let 4ho healthy locality be searched 
 for and fixed upon, and th'sn there wiU bo free scope to 
 work in the same cause in various directions, without that 
 loss of men which the system of missions on the unhealthy 
 coast entails. While respectfully submitting the plan to 
 these influential societies, I can positively state that, when 
 fairly in the interior, there is perfect security for life and 
 property among a people who will at least listen and 
 reason. 
 
 Eight of my men begged to be allowed to come as far 
 as Kilimane, and, thinking that they would thej-e see the 
 ocean, I consented to their coming, theugh the food was so 
 scarce in consequoneo of a dearth that they were compelled 
 to suffer some hunger. They would fain have come far- 
 ther; for when Sekcletu parted with them his orders were 
 that none of them should turn until they had reached Ma 
 Eobert and brought her back with them. On my explain- 
 ing the difficulty of crossing the sea, he said, " Wherever 
 you lead, they must follow." As I did not know well how 
 I should got homo myself, I advised them to go back to 
 Tete, whore food was abundant, and there await my return, 
 I bought a quantity of calico and brass wire with ton of 
 the smaller tusks which we had in our charge, ano seni 
 the former back as clothing to those who remained at Tete 
 Ab there were still twenty tusks left, I deposited theiP 
 with Colonel Nuncs, that, in the event of any thing hap. 
 pening to prevent my return, the impression might not br 
 produced in the country that 1 had made away with Soke- 
 leta's ivory. I instructed Colonel Nun«8. in case of my 
 
THE AUTHOR B POSITION. 429 
 
 death, to soil the tusks and deliver the proceeds to my 
 men ; but I intended, if my life should be prolonged, to 
 purchase the goods ordered by Sekeletu in England with 
 my own money, and pay myself on my return out of tho 
 price of the ivory. This I explained to the men fully, and 
 they, understanding the matter, replied, "Way, father, you 
 will not die ; you will return to take us back to Sekeletu." 
 Tlioy promised to wait till I came back; and, on my part, 
 [ assured tham that nothing but death would prevent my 
 return. This I said, though while waiting at Kilimane a 
 letter came from the Directors of tho London Missionary 
 Society stating that "they were restricted in their power 
 of aiding plans connected only remotely with the spread 
 of tho gospel, and that the financial circumstances of tho 
 society were not such as to afford any ground of hope that 
 it would be in a position, within any definite period, to 
 enter upon untried, remote, and difficult fields of labor.'' 
 This has been explained since as an effusion caused by tern 
 porary financial depression; but, feeling pei-fcct confidence 
 in my Makololo friends, I was determined to return and 
 trust to their generosity. The old love of independence, 
 which I had so strongly before joining tho society, again 
 returned. It was roused by a mistaken view of what this 
 letter meant; for the directors, immediately on my reach- 
 ing home, saw the great importance of the opening, and 
 entered with enlightened zeal on the work of sending tho 
 gospel into tho new field. It is to be hoped that their con- 
 4ituents will not only enable them to begin, but to carry 
 out tJxeir plans, and that no material depression will evei 
 gain bo permitted, nor appearances of spasmodic benevo- 
 fence recur. While I hope to continue the same cordiaJ 
 co-operation and friendship which have always character- 
 ized our intercourse, various reasons induce mo to withdraw 
 from pecuniary dependence on any society. I have done 
 something for the heathen; but for an aged mother, who has 
 still more sacred claims than they, I have been able to do 
 nothing, and a continuance of the connection would be a 
 
430 VILLAGE or KILIMANE. 
 
 peq)etuation of my inability to make any provision for hei 
 declining years. In addition to " clergyman's sore throat," 
 which partially disabled mo from the work, my father's 
 death imposed new obligations ; and, a fresh source of in- 
 oome having been opened to me mthout my asking, I had 
 no hesitation in accepting what would enable me to fulfil 
 my duty to my aged parent as well as to the heathen. 
 
 rbo village of Eilimane stands on a groat mud-bank, 
 and is surrounded by extensive swamps and rice-grounds. 
 The banks of the river are lined with mangrove-bushes, 
 tlie roots of which, and the slimy banks on which they 
 grow, are alternately exposed to the tide and sun. The 
 houses are well built of brick and lime, the latter from 
 Mozambique. If one digs down two or three feet in any 
 part of the site of the village, he comes to water: hence 
 the walls built on this mud-bank gradually subside; pieces 
 are sometimes sawn off the doors bolow, because the walls 
 in which they are fixed have descended into the ground, so 
 as to leave the floors higher than the bottom of the doors. 
 It is almost needless to say that Kilimane is very un- 
 healthy. A man of plethoric temperament is sure to get 
 fever, and concerning a stout person one may hear the 
 remark, "Ah, he will not live long; he is sure to die." 
 
 After waiting about six weeks at this unhealthy spot, 
 in which, however, by the kind attentions of Colonel 
 Nunes and his nephew, I partially recovered from my ter- 
 tian, H.M. brig "Frolic" arrived off Kilimane. As the 
 village is twelve miles from the bar, and the weather was 
 rough, she was at anchor ten days before we kuow of her 
 presence about seven miles from the entrance to the port. 
 She brought abundant supplies for all my need, and £150 
 to pay my passage home, from my kind friend Mr. Thomp- 
 son, tho Society's agent at the Cape. The admiral at the 
 Capo kindly sent an offer of a passage t» tho Mauritius, 
 which I tliankfully accepted. Sekwebu and one attendant 
 alone remained with me now. Ho was very intelligent, and 
 had boon of tho greatest service to mo : indeed, but for his 
 
Ronan passage to the "fbolio.' 4 j 
 
 6roo<i senso, tact, and command of the language of the 
 trioos through which wo passed, I believe wo should 
 scarcely have succeeded in reaching the coast. I naturally 
 felt grateful to him; and as his chief wished all my com- 
 panions to go to England with me, and would probably be 
 disappointed if none went, I thought it would bo beneficial 
 for him to see the -effects of civilization and report them to 
 his countrymen. I wished also to make some return for his 
 very important services. Others had petitioned to come, 
 but I explained the danger of a change of cixmate and food, 
 and with difficulty restrained them. The only one who 
 now remained begged so hard to come on ooard ship that I 
 greatly regretted that the expense prevented my acceding 
 to his wish to visit England. I said to him, "You will die 
 if you go to such a cold country as mine." "That is 
 nothing," he reiterated; "let me die at your feet." 
 
 "When wo parted from our friends at Kilimane, the sea 
 on the bar was frightful even to the seamen. This was the 
 first time Sekwebu had seen the sea. Captain Peyton had 
 sent two boats in case of accident. The waves were so hitrii 
 that, when the cutter was in one trough and we in tlio 
 pinnace in another, her mast was hid. We then mounted 
 to the crest of the wave, rushed down the slope, and 
 struck the water again with a blow which felt as if she 
 had struck the bottom. Boats mxist bo singularly well con- 
 structed to bo able to stand these shocks. Three breakers 
 swept over us. The men lift up vheir oars, and a wave 
 nomes sweeping over all, giving the impression that the 
 boat is going down; but she only goes beneath the top of 
 the wave, comes out on the other side, and swings down 
 the slope and a man bales out the water with a bucket 
 Poor Sokwebu looked at me when these terrible seas broke 
 over, and said, "Is this the way you go? Is this the way 
 you go?" I smiled and said, "Yes; don't you see it is?" 
 and tried to encourage him. He was well acquainted with 
 canoes, but never had seen aught like this. When we 
 reached the ship, — a fine, large brig of sixteen guns and a 
 
432 INSANITY or SEKWEBU. 
 
 crew of one hundred and thirty, — she was rolling so that 
 we could see a part of her bottom. It was quite impossi- 
 ble for landsmen to catch the ropes and climb upj so a 
 chair was sent down, and we were hoisted in as ladies 
 Qsually are, and received so hearty an English welcome 
 from Captain Peyton and all on board that I felt myself at 
 once at home in every thing except my own mothcr-tonguo 
 I seemed to know the language perfectly, but the words 1 
 wanted would not come at my call. When I left Enj^iand 
 I had no intention of returning, and directed my attention 
 earnestly to the languages of Africa, paying none to 
 English composition. With the exception of a short in- 
 terval in Angola, I had been three and a half years without 
 speaking English, and this, with thirteen years of previous 
 partial disuse of my native tongue, made, me feel sadly at 
 a loss on board the "Frolic." 
 
 We left Kilimane on the 12th of July, and reached the 
 Mauritius on the 12th of August, 1856. Sekwebu was 
 picking up English, and becoming a favorite with both men 
 and officers. He seemed a little bewildered, every thing on 
 board a man-of-war being so new and strange; but he re- 
 marked to mo several times, 'f Tour countrymen are very 
 agreeable," and, "What a strange country this is ! — all water 
 together I" He also said that he now understood why 1 
 ased the sextant. When we reached the Mauritius a 
 steamer came out to tow us into the harbor. The constant 
 strain on his untutored mind seemed now to roach a climax, 
 for during the night he became insane. I thought at first 
 that he was intoxicated. He had descended into a boat, 
 and, when I attempted to go down and bring him into the 
 ship, he ran to the stern and said, "No ! no! it is enough 
 that I die alone. You must not perish ; if you come, 1 
 shaL throw myself into the water." Perceiving that his 
 mind was affected, I said, "Now, Sekwebu, we are going 
 to Ma Eobort." This struck a chord in his bosom, and he 
 said, "Oh, yes! where is she, and where is Eobert?" and 
 he seemed to recover The officers proposed to secure him 
 
DKATH or SEKWEUU — ^VOTAOK HO MX. 483 
 
 by patting him in irons; bat, being a gentleman in hie own 
 oountry, 1 objected, knowing that the insane often retain 
 an impression of ill-treatment, and I conld not bear to have 
 it said in Sekeletu's country that I had chained one of hia 
 principal men as they had seen slaves treated. I tried to get 
 him on shore by day, but ho refused. In the evening a fresh 
 accession of insanity occurred : he tried to spear one of the 
 crew, then leaped overboard, and, though he could swim 
 well, palled himself down hand under hand by the chain- 
 oable. We never found the body of poor Sekweba. 
 
 At the Mauritius I was most hospitably received by 
 afajor-General G. M. Hay, and he generously constrained 
 me to remain with him till, by the influence of the good 
 Inmate and quiet English comfort, I got rid of an enlarged 
 spleen from African fever. In November I came up the Bed 
 Sea, escaped the danger of shipwreck through the admirable 
 management of Captain Powell, of the Peninsular and 
 Oriental Steam-Company's ship "Gandia," and on the 
 12th of December was once more in dear old England. 
 The Company most liberally refunded my passage-money. 
 I have not mentioned half the favors bestowed; but I may 
 just add that no one has caose for more abundant grati- 
 tade to his fellow-men and to his Maker than I have; and 
 Biay Grod grant that the effect on my mind bo such that I 
 may be more humbly devoted to the service of th« Authoor 
 of all our merdeal 
 
 fO 
 
484 THK SECOND ^:&X>EDITION. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 DR. LIVINGSTONE STARTS UPON HIS SECOND BXPKDITIOW. 
 
 To those who love the quiet charms of domestic life, this 
 ■ixteeii years spent from home, in the exploration of a wild 
 country settled by still wilder men, would seem to have been 
 sufficient. Dr. Livingstone, however, remained in Great 
 Britain only about a year and a half, during which he pre- 
 pared and published the volume of Missionary Travels and 
 Researches in- South AfHca, which have furnished tho 
 material for the preceding portion of our volume. During 
 this stay in Europe, the interest excited by his researches 
 found its expression in various ways. The great Univer- 
 sities of England confferred degrees upon him, the Geogra^ 
 phical Society feted him, foreign associations sent him 
 medals and diplomas, and the Queen invited him to a pri- 
 vate audience. Another expedition was organized with 
 Government aid, to explore the sources of the Zambesi, 
 and the history of this expedition was given by Dr. Livingf- 
 Btone after his return, in 18^4, in a voluminous English 
 work, the materilal and important portions of which form 
 the basis of the second part of the present volume. Tho 
 objects of this expedition, as explicitly stated by the Eng- 
 lish Government, were to extend the knowledge already 
 attained of the geography and mineral and agricultural 
 resources of Eastern and Central Africa; to improve our 
 acquaintance with the inhabitants, and to endeavor to 
 engage them to apply themselves to industrial pursuits and 
 to the cultivation of their lands, while It was hoped that 
 by encouraging the natives to occupy themselves in tho 
 development of their country, a considerable advance 
 might be made towards the extinction of the slave trade. 
 The expedition left England on the 10th of March, 1858, 
 Ih the Government steamer " Pearl," and reached the East 
 coast of Africa on the following May. The Pearl was fur- 
 
"MA ROBERT." 435 
 
 nisbed with a small steam launch, carried in three sections, 
 *nd called " Ma Robert," after Mrs. Livingstone, to whom 
 the native Africans, according to their custom, had given 
 the name of Ma (mother). After exploring the mouths of 
 the Zambesi, they proceeded up the stream. The country 
 was rich and well adapted to growing sugar cane. But 
 few inhabitants were met, and they were all blacks, and 
 the majority of them Portuguese " colonos," or serfs. They 
 manifested no fear of white men, and stood in groups on 
 the land, gazing in astonishment at the steamers. All were 
 eager traders, and in their light ca,noes brought supplies 
 of every kind of fruit and food they possessed : honey, 
 beeswax, fowls, rice and meal. When the channel became 
 too shallow for the Pearl, that vessel- returned, and the 
 expedition pushed on its way. For sixty or seventy miles 
 before reaching Mazaro, the scenery is tame and uninter- 
 esting, but on ai)proaching Mazaro it itnproves. The Lan- 
 deens or Zulus are the owners of the right bank of the 
 Zambesi, and every year appear to receive their tribute 
 from the Portuguese. At Shupanga they wooded up with 
 African ebony and lignum vitse. This last tree bete attains 
 an immense size, sometimes as much as four feeit in dia- 
 nuetei*. The India-rubber tree is also plentiful, and the 
 indigo grows wild on the banks of the stream. On the Hth 
 of August,^^ 1858j the expedition started fol' Tette. The 
 channel was a difficult one, and the black pilot, John 
 Scissors, frequently ran the vessel aground. The furnaces 
 of the Ma Robert consumed so much Wood, that obtaining 
 the supplies caused constant detentions. Steam was no 
 labor-saving appliance, and boats or canoes would have 
 done much better at half the expense and labor. At Shir- 
 ambe Dembe, on the right bank, was a ruined settlement. 
 Near was a magnificent Boabab tree, its trunk hollowed 
 out into a good-sized hut, with the bark growing in the in- 
 side as well as on the outside. This is a peculiarity of this 
 tree, when it is hollowed out, the bark grows so as to line 
 the iuside of the cavity, as well as the outside of the trunk. 
 
436 TETTB AND ITS POPULATION. 
 
 The river here spreads out to a width of three or font 
 miles, with many islands, so that the navigation is difficult. 
 Within a few miles of Tette are the ruins of stone houses, 
 which were used by the Portuguese settlers, and destroyed 
 by the hostile natives. 
 
 Tette stands on a succession of low sandstone ridges, 
 on the right bank of the Zambesi, which is here 960 yard* 
 wide. Shallow ravines, running in the direction of the 
 river, form the streets, the houses being built on the ridges 
 between. It is a Portuguese station, and has a fort and a 
 church. The number of the white inhabitants is small, the 
 military element preponderating, the soldiers being gen- 
 erally convicts sent from Portugal. The moral condition 
 of the population can be easily imagined, since both officers 
 and soldiers seldom receive any pay from the home gov- 
 ernment, and are forced to rely therefore upon themselves 
 for support. The natives here ascribed the drought pre- 
 vailing to the doctor's rain-gauge he had set up in the 
 garden. They are very superstitious. The earth, the air 
 and the water are full of spirits to them. Being composed 
 of mixtures of various native races, they have the super- 
 stitions of them all. They worship the serpent. When a 
 man has his hair cut, he burns it, or buries it secretly, lest 
 it should fall into the hands of a witch, and be used as a 
 charm to torment him. Though the mango grows here 
 luxuriantly, and its fruit supplies them w.ith food for soma 
 four months of the year, yet they will never plant a mango 
 tree, from the superstition that he who does so will soon 
 4ie. Even among the native Portuguese of Tette it is 
 believed that the man who plants coffee will never after- 
 wards be happy ; yet they drink coffee. 
 
 Here the winter begins in May, and the trees commence 
 to shed their leaves, remaining bare until the rains come in 
 November. Several species of trees seem to anticipate the 
 coming of the rainy season, by a sort of instinct ; and as 
 early as October, while the dry season is at its height, and 
 not even a drop of dew forms, they begin to vegetate buds. 
 
MINEKAIi RESOUBOES. 437 
 
 The trees of the Arctic Zone are said also to anticipate tli« 
 season, and while the ground is still frozen begin to dis- 
 play green buds. The Portuguese are kind masters to 
 their slaves, but the half castes are very cruel, so that a 
 proverb of the place runs, " God made white men, and 
 God made black men, but the devil made half castes." 
 Most of the native Africans are natural traders, and lov« 
 trade more for the sake of trading than for what they make 
 by it. The dice doctor is an important member of th* 
 community, being consulted by the Portuguese as well as 
 by the natives. Part of his business is to discover thieves. 
 This he does by looking at the place, then throwing hia 
 dice, waiting a few days for consideration, and then telling 
 ■who the thieves are. He is generally right, for his period 
 of consideration is spent in consulting his agents and 
 spies, who are scattered all over the village. Since the 
 introduction of guns, there have arisen gun doctors, who 
 sell medicine to make good marksmen. 
 
 Indigo and senna grow here naturally. A little cotton 
 is cultivated by the natives, for the manufacture of a 
 coarse cloth. Sugar cane is also cultivated, and sugar is 
 made, but by a most primitive process. Magnetic iron ore 
 is found near Tette, and coal in abundance. Within a couple 
 of days of Tette, gold is found in the river beds. The sun 
 is excessively hot and feels sharp in Africa ; but probably 
 from the greater dryness of the atmosphere, we never 
 heard of a single case of sunstroke, so common in India. 
 
 After making a trip to the cataract of Morumbwa, in 
 which great diflSculties had to be overcome, from the wild 
 character of the country, and the intense heat of the 
 weather, they returned by a detour, and on the way back 
 were one evening entertained by a concert of native musi- 
 cians with their wild and not unpleasant music on the 
 marimba, an instrument formed of bars of hard wood 
 of varying breadth and thickness, laid on different-sized 
 hollow calabashes, and tuned to give the notes. At the 
 •nd of the dry season everything is parobcd and dusty. 
 37* 
 
438 THE NATIVB LANGUAGE6. 
 
 The air ie full of blue haze, and very sultry. When th« 
 rains begin the face of the country changes with wonderful 
 rapidity. Though the atmosphere is not moist and hot- 
 house like, as it is on the West coast, yet the herbage , 
 springs up quickly ; the air is so clear that one can see dis- 
 tinctly at great distances; the landscape is full of light; 
 and in the early morning, before the heat of noon, every- 
 thing is filled with a delightful freshness. The young foliage 
 of various trees, more especially on the highlands, comef 
 out brown, pale red, or pink, like the hues of autumi 
 foliage, and as the leaves grow thej' become a light, fresL 
 green, while white, scarlet, pink and yellow flowers in pro- 
 fusion delight the ej-e with their brilliancy of color. The 
 birds and insects gather in crowds, the butterflies flit about, 
 and an African Christmas is like an English May. It was 
 long ago remarked that in Africa everything was contrary; 
 " ■wool grows upon the heads of men, and hair on the backs 
 of sheep." The men frequently wear their hair long, the 
 women scarcely ever. Where there are cattle, the -women 
 till the land, plant the corn, and build the huts. The men 
 stay at home to sow, spin, weave, gossip and milk the cows. 
 The men pay a dowry for their wives, instead of receiving 
 one with them. These inhabitants of the mountains are 
 feeble, spiritless and cowardly, when compared even with ' 
 their own countrymen of the plains. Some of the Africans 
 believe that at death their souls pass into the bodies of 
 apes. Most writers suppose that the blacks are all savages; 
 nearly all the blacks believe the whites to be cannibals. 
 The " bogie " of the one is black, of the other white. Th« 
 natives of Africa all speak a beautiful language, and have 
 no vulgar patois ; owing to the diflierence of idiom, very 
 few Europeans acquire an acurate knowledge of African 
 tongues, unless they begin to learn them when young. A 
 complaint of the poverty of the language is often only a 
 sure proof of the ignorance of the complainer, and gross 
 mistakes are often made by the most experienced. A grave 
 prpfessor put down in a scientific work the word " Kaia " 
 
THE SEASONS IN AFRICA. 439 
 
 as tb€ native name of a certain lizard. The word 
 means simply " I don't know," and was the answer he 
 had received. ' 
 
 Dr. Kirk divides the year into three seasons — a cold, a 
 hot, and a rainy season. The cold lasts through May, 
 June, and July; the hot, through August, September, and 
 October ; the rainy through the rest of the year. In an 
 average year the fall of rain amounts to about thirty-five 
 inches. On many days it does not rain at all, and rarely 
 all day ; some days have only a shower. At times, intervals, 
 of a week or a fortnight pass without rain, and then crops 
 suffer from the snn. These partial droughts happen in De- 
 cember and January. The heat appears to increase to a 
 certain point in the different latitudes, so as to necessitate 
 a'' change, by some analogous law to that which regulates 
 the intensity of the cold in other countries. Here, after a 
 series of daj's when the heat increases, reaching, on the 
 hottest, about 103^ in the shade, a break occurs, and a 
 thunder-shower cools the air. At Enrnroan, when the 
 thermometer stood above 84°, rain might be expected ; at 
 Kolbberg, 96° was the point at which we looked for a 
 storm. 
 
 The Zambesi rises in a flood twice a year. The first is a 
 partial one, and reaches its height about' the end of Decem- 
 ber or first of January ; the second; and larger one, occurs 
 after the river has inundated the interior, similar to the 
 overflow of the Nile, and, at Tette, this takes place in 
 March. The river rises suddenly, the water is discolored 
 4nd impure, with a four-mile current in some places. In a 
 'day or two, after the first rush of water is passed, the cur- 
 tent becomes more equally spread over the whole bed of 
 the river, and resumes it usual rate in the channel, though 
 the flood continues. At other times the water of the Zam- 
 'besiis very pure, being found by the photographer nearly 
 As good as distilled water for the nitrate of silver bath. 
 
 A good deal of fever prevails in March and April, if con- 
 siderable intervals occur between the rains, for then larj^ 
 
440 tHB AVBIGAN FXVKR, 
 
 surfaces of mad and decaying vegetable matter are exposed 
 to the hot sun. The attacks of fever are, in general, not 
 long, though they pull the patient down rapidly. When the 
 fever is checked, strength is as quickly restored. What- 
 ever may be the cause of the fever, we observed that we 
 were often affected at the same time, as if from malaria, 
 and particularly so during a north wind. Daily doses of 
 quinine did not appear an always effective preventive ; tha 
 best known is constant ocoupation, and plenty of whole- 
 some food. Though quinine was not a preventive, it was 
 found invaluable for a cure as soon as pains in the back, 
 sore bones, headache, yawning, quick and intermittent 
 pulse, pulsations of the jugulars, with suffused eyes, hot 
 skin and foul tongue, began. 
 
 The effects of African fever on certain minds are very 
 curious. Cheerfulness disappears, and sadness sets in. 
 The liveliest jokes cannot raise a smile. The temper is ir- 
 ritable and peevish. Nothing is right. 
 
 As it was found impossible to take the launch, with only 
 ten horse power, through Kebrabasa, a demand was sent t« 
 government for a stronger vessel, and it was determined to 
 attempt to explore the river Shire, a northern tributary of 
 the Zambesi, which joins it about a hundred miles from the 
 sea. We could not learn from any record that the Shire 
 had ever been ascended by Europeans. As far, therefore, 
 as we are concerned, the exploration was absolutely new. 
 The Portuguese believe that the Manganja were brave and 
 blood-thirsty savages. We started in January, 1859. 
 Some duck weed was met at first, but not enough to impede 
 navigation. Around Mount Morambala none of it wa« 
 found. At a village ef a chief named Tingane, at least five 
 hundred natives were collected on the shore, and ordered 
 us to stop. Dr. Livingstone went ashore, and, explaining 
 the objects of the expedition, Tingane became at onee 
 friendly. Tingane was an elderly, well-made man, gray- 
 headed, and over six feet high. Though somewhat excited 
 by our presence, he readily complied with our request to 
 
UP THE SHIRE. 441 
 
 «all his people together, in order that all might know what 
 our objects were. 
 
 The dialect here closely resembles that spoken at Senni^ 
 nnd Tette. The delight of exploring a hitherto unexplored 
 river, must be felt to be appreciated. After having ad- 
 vanced, in a straight line, one hundred miles, though the 
 wanderings of the course made the distance at least twica 
 fts much, further progress by the steamer was arrested, in 
 15° 55' south, by magnificent cataracts, which were chris- 
 tened "The Murchison," after Sir Roderick Murchison. 
 After remaining here a few days, hoping to take an obser- 
 vation for longitude, but prevented by the cloudy weather, 
 the expedition returned to Tette. 
 
 In the middle of March (1859), a second expedition up 
 the Shire started. The natives were now friendly. Ami- 
 cable relations were formed with Chibisa, a c4iief whose vil- 
 lage was about ten miles below the cataract-. Chibisa was 
 » remarkably shrewd man. A great deal of fighting had 
 fallen to his lot, but he said he was always in the right, the 
 other party always began it. He was also a firm believer 
 in the divine right of kings. He was an ordinary man, h« 
 said, when his father died and left him the chieftainship, 
 but as soon as he succeeded to his high oflSce, he was 
 conscious of power passing into his head and down his 
 back ; he felt it enter, and knew he was a chief, clothed 
 with authority and possessed of wisdom, and people began 
 to fear and reverence him. He mentioned this as a fact no 
 more to be doubted than any other fact of natural history. 
 
 Leaving the vessel opposite Chibisa's village. Dr. Living- 
 stone, with a party, started on foot for Lake Shirwa, and 
 travelled in a northerly direction, over a mountainous 
 country. They had trouble with their guides, and finally 
 pushed on without them, or with crazy ones, for, oddly 
 enough, they were often under great obligations to th« 
 madmen of diflferent villages. These poor fellows sympa- 
 thized with the explorers, probably from the belief that 
 they belonged to their own class, and, uninfluenced by th« 
 
443 DISOOVERINO LAKE NYASSA. 
 
 public opinion of their own countrymen, they reaHy pitied, 
 the strangers, and often guided them faithfully, when no 
 one else could be hired to do so for love or money. 
 
 On the 18th of April, they discovered Lake Shirwa, a 
 considerable body of bitter water, containing leeches, 
 fishes, crocodiles, and hippopotami. It is brackish; proba. 
 bly from having no outlet, and appears to be deep, with 
 islands in it. The northern end of Shirwa has not been 
 seen, though it has been passed. Its length is from &0 to 
 80 miles, and its breadth 20 miles. It stands about 180* 
 feet above the sea, and its water tastes like a weak solutioa 
 of Epsom salts. The country round is beautiful, moun- 
 tains about eight thousand feet above the sea level stand 
 near the eastern shore, and on the west stands Mount 
 Zomba, 1000 feet high, aad some 20 miles long. Return- 
 ing by a diflferent route, thiey reached Tette on the 23d of 
 Jane. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 DOCTOR LIVINGSTONE DISCOVERS LAKE NTASRA. 
 
 About the middle of August, the expedition ' started 
 ^gain up the Shire, with the intention of journeying on foot 
 to the north of Lake Shirwa, in search of Lake Nyassa. 
 The Shire drains a rich valley about twenty miles wide. 
 For the first twenty miles the hills, on the left bank, ar« 
 close to the river ; then comes Morarabala, " the lofty 
 watch-tower,'' a detached mountain, 500 yard* from the 
 river's brink, with steep sides, on the west, 4000 feet high. 
 
 Beyond Morambala, the Shire winds through an exteii- 
 *ive marsh. Ascending the river, they passed a deep 
 Btream, about thirty yards wide, flowing in from a body o? 
 water several miles broad. The natives were engaged on, 
 it, filling their canoes with the roots of the lotus, called 
 l^yika, which, roasted or boiled, resemble ch«stnHte, and 
 

 ^ HIPPOPOTAMUS TRAP. 
 
HTPPOFOTAMOS TIIAP& ii5 
 
 are extenelTely used as food. At a village called Mboma 
 (16°, 56', 30" S.), they obtained supplies of rice, very 
 cheap, and a native serenaded them by singing wild, but 
 not unmusical, songs, accompanying himself upon a native 
 species of fiddle, with one string. At sunrise, the water 
 of the river was 70°, or 23° warmer than the air, so that 
 fogs rose from the stream like steam. Both banks of ciie 
 itream are dotted with hippopotamus traps, over every 
 track these animals make in going up out of the water to 
 graze. The hippopotamus feeds on grass alone, and when 
 there is danger, only at night. Its enormous lips act like 
 a mowing machine, and form a sort of path in the grass as 
 it feeds. Its flesh is rather coarse, and among some of the 
 tribes as much objection is made to eating it as there is to 
 eating pork among Hebrews. The musquitoes were very 
 bad, and the steamer being leaky, supplies of them were 
 had on board, as well as from the outside. These insects are 
 so numerous in malarious spots, that their presence is con- 
 sidered an evidence that the place is unhealthy. There are 
 said to be none of them on the uplands. 
 
 A few miles above Mboma lies the village of the chief, 
 Tingane (16°, 44', 3" S.), whose people were now friendly. 
 The Ruo (16°, 31', 0" S.) is said to have its source in the 
 Milanje Mountains, and joins the Shire some distance 
 above Tingane's. A short way beyond the Buo lies the 
 Elephant Marsh, or Njanja Mukulu, frequented by vast 
 herds of elephants. Eight hundred in sight at once were 
 counted by the expedition. They showed their sagacity by 
 choosing this stronghold, since the hunters cannot get at 
 them in the marsh. When the steamer first appeared, they 
 were not acquainted with it, and not afraid of it. Killing 
 one or two, however, soon taught them to avoid it. The 
 African elephant differs from the Asiatic, especially in the 
 convex shape of his forehead, and the enormous size of his 
 ears. In Asia many of the males and all the females have 
 no tusks, while in Africa both sexes are provided with thesa 
 weapons. In the two species, the enamel of the teeth is 
 38 
 
44S BLBPHANT'S TUfiKS. 
 
 arranged diferently. New teeth come up constantly wher« 
 a man's wisdom teeth grow, and being pushed forward in 
 the jaw by those coming afterwards, replace those in front 
 which are worn out, thus Iceeping the molars sound by re- 
 newal, until tlie animal reaches a great age. The tusks of 
 elephants from dry, rocky countries are more dense and 
 heavier than those of animals living in wet and marshy 
 places, but these last attain the greater size. The Shira 
 marshes support prodigious numbers of many kinds of 
 water fowl. 
 
 The Borassus, though not an oil-bearing palm, is a use- 
 ful tree. The fibrous pulp about the large nuts is sweet 
 and fruity* and is eaten by men and elephants. The nuts 
 are buried until they sprout, and are then dug up and 
 eiiten, resembling coarse potatoes. Wine is also made 
 from the juice ; when fresh, it is like champagne, and not 
 intoxicating; though it becomes very much so by standing. 
 On the 25th of August, the expedition reached Dakanamoio 
 Island, opposite the perpendicular cliflf upon which ChJ- 
 bisa's village stands. Here a fine male hornbill {Bucetos 
 criistatus) of the largest species-, fell to the ground from 
 fear at the report of a gun. It was captured, and kept. 
 Its mate would not desert it, but flew about the boat, 
 inviting him to join her. This she repeated in the evening. 
 The poor captive refused to eat, and in five days died of 
 grief, since no internal injury could be detected in 
 examining him after death. 
 
 On the 28th of August, 1859, the expedition left the 
 vessel, and set out to discover Lake Nyassa. The party 
 consisted of forty-two persons, four whites, thiity-six 
 Makololo, and two guides. The course crossed ftie valley 
 in a north-easterly direction, and an hour's march brought 
 them to the foot of the Manganja Hills, up which their 
 toilsome course lay. The first halt, after a weary march, 
 was at Makolongwe, the village of Chitimba, which, like 
 all Manganja villages, is surrounded with an impenetrable 
 hedge of poisonous euphorbia^ Here an active trade with 
 
THE MANOANJA COUNTRY. 44* 
 
 the natives was soon opened. The night was passed in 
 the open air, there being no mosquitoes on the hills, and 
 the next day they gained the upper terrace, 3000 feet 
 above the sea. The plateau lies west of the Milanje 
 Mountains, and its north-eastern border slopes down to 
 Lake Shirwa. After a week spent in crossing the high*- 
 lands in a northerly direction, the expedition descended 
 into the Upper Shire valley, which is nearly 1200 feet 
 above the sea level. 
 
 The Manganja country is finely watered. The natives 
 live in villages, each with its own head man, though he 
 may rule over several adjacent villages. The people are 
 regarded as his children. All the petty chiefs of a certain 
 district owe allegiance to a paramount chief, called the 
 Rondo, or Kundo. They pay him an annual tribute, and 
 one of the tusks of every elephant killed; and in turn, it is 
 hia duty toi protect them when attacked. Manfcokwe is 
 the Rundo of the' southern portion of the highlands ; but 
 he is a besotted person, who never visits them as his father 
 did, soi that the tribute- is seldom paid, notwithstanding 
 that they all acknowledge that it is their duty to pay it( 
 and . that he is their Rondo. Part of the Upper Shire 
 valley has a woman Rondo, named Nj'ango ; and in her 
 dominions women rank higher, and are more respectfully 
 treated than elsewhere: This natural growth of a feudal 
 cystem is most interesting, as showing the tendency of 
 political development, and giving us a key to the compre^ 
 hension of our own political history. In Nyango's country 
 the painful, subjection of women was not seen. The head 
 man of the first of her villages^ entered by the expedition^ 
 asked that his wife should come to see the compass and 
 other curiosities. He always consulted her before con- 
 cluding a bargain, and was greatly influenced by her 
 judgment. 
 
 The Boalo in the villages is an open place, to which the 
 expedition always proceeded ; and then, seated on the mats 
 a^ead for the purpose, commenced the interview witl^ ^-he 
 
448 HANOANJA INDUSTRIES. 
 
 head man and his counsellors. The proceedings are 
 always conducted with a great deal of punctilious eti- 
 quette. The Manganja are industrious ; they work ia 
 iron, cotton, and basket-making, beside cultivating the soiL 
 The men, women and children of the villages all turn out 
 to work in the fields. They clear the ground by cutting 
 <down the trees with their little axes of soft native iron, 
 then burning the trunks and branches, and .spreading the 
 ftshes on the soil. The corn is then planted among tho 
 ■tumps, which are left to rot. Large crops are raised of 
 the mapira, or Egyptian dura {Holcus sorghum), millet, 
 beans, ground-nuts ; also patches of yams, rice, pumpkins, 
 cucumbers, cassava, sweet potatoes, tobacco, hemp, or bang 
 (Cannabis saiiva). Maiz« is grown the year round, and 
 cotton is cultivated in almost every village. Three kinds 
 of cotton were found here, two foreign and one native. 
 The tonje manga, or foreign cotton, is as good as the best 
 npland. It is perennial, but requires to be planted once 
 in three years. The tonje cadja, or native cotton, is 
 shorter in staple, and feels like wool. It has to be planted 
 every year. A great deal of cotton is raised, cleaned, 
 spun and woven, though the processes are the slow, and 
 rude ones. 
 
 Iron ore is dug, smelted, and worked. Each village has 
 its smelters and blacksmiths. They make axes, spears, 
 needles, arrow heads, bracelets and anklets. A hoe about 
 two pounds in weight is sold for about eight cents' worth 
 of calico. In villages near Lake Shirwa, a great deal of 
 pottery is mad«, and decorated with plumbago, found in 
 the hills. Baskets are manufactured from the bamboo, or 
 the fibres of the buaze ; and an active trade is carried on 
 between the vai-ious villages. The men are intelligent and 
 fine-looking. They take great pride in the fanciful deco- 
 ration of their hair, wearing it in various styles. They 
 wear rings on their fingers and thumbs, beside throatlets, 
 bracelets, and anklets of brass, copper, and iron. Th« 
 pep«le, or upper lip ring of the women, ia the most extra- 
 
FASHION IN APRIOA. iii 
 
 •rdlnary ornament. The upper lip is pierced, and a pin 
 inserted to keep the hole open. Then larger pins are nsad, 
 until a hole large enough to contain a ring two inches in 
 diameter is made. This process may take years before this 
 result is reached. For the poorer classes, the rings are 
 made of bamboo, for the rich of ivory or tin. The tin 
 ones are often like a small dish, the ivory ones not unlike 
 a napkin ring. No woman appears in public without it, 
 except in times of mourning. When advised to throw 
 them away, since it made them ugly, they answered : 
 " Kodi ! Really ! It is the fashion." An old chief, Chin- 
 sunse, being asked why they wore such a thing, replied, 
 with evident surprise: "For beauty, to be sure! Men 
 have beards and whiskers ; women have none ; and what 
 kind of creature would a woman be without whiskers, and 
 without the pepele ? She would have a mouth like a man, 
 and no beard ; ha ! ha ! " On the Rovuma, men were 
 found wearing the pepele. 
 
 The Manganja brew beer, and drink it largely. Th« 
 grain is made to vegetate, dried in the sun, and pounded 
 into meal, then gently boiled. When new, it is sweet and 
 refreshing. They have an ordeal, by drinking a poison, 
 muave. Persons suspected of crime drink it ; if the 
 stomach rejects it, they are innocent ; if not, they are 
 guilty. Chiefs are not exempted from this ordeal. What 
 the muave is, is not known ; the natives were reluctant to 
 tell. They wear striiTs of palm leaf round the head, arms, 
 neck, legs, and breast, as a sign of mourning for .the dead ; 
 and keep them on until they drop off from decay. They 
 believe in a supreme being, called Nipambe, or Morungo, 
 and in a future state. 
 
 Above the cataracts, the Shire is a broad deep river, 
 with but little current. Lake Nyassa was discovered a 
 little before noon, September 16th, 1859. Its southern end 
 is in 14° 25' S. lat., and 35° 30' E. long. One of the great 
 slave paths from the interior passes here, others cross the 
 Shire a little below. The Manganja chiefs sell their 
 31* 
 
450 EETXJRN TO THE SHIP. 
 
 people ; they are ashamed of it, and say they sell only 
 criminals, but others are really sold. The price of a man 
 is four yards of cotton cloth, three for a woman, and two 
 for a child ; the victims are taken to the Portuguese 
 at Mozambique, Iboe and Quilliraane. 
 
 The Manganja were more suspicious and less hospitable 
 than the tribes on the Zambesi. They disbelieved the 
 objects of the expedition, ascribing naturally to the party 
 their own motives. From the numbers of aged people 
 met on the highlands, and the increase of mental and 
 physical vigor experienced by the members of the party in 
 passing from the lowlands to the highlands, it was inferred 
 that the climate was salubrious, and fitted for Europeans. 
 The stay at the Lake was short ; and on the 6th of Octo- 
 ber, 1859, after a land journey of forty days, the party 
 returned to the ship. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 DOCTOR LIVINGSTONE REACHES THE VICTORIA FALLS. 
 
 Having sent back to England for another steam launch. 
 Ma Robert having been found unfitted for the purpose in» 
 tended, the expedition did not get ready to start again 
 until May. The Makololo, whom Dr. Livingstone had 
 brought back with him from his expedition of 1856, as 
 told in Chapter XIII., and who had remained near Tette 
 during his absence in England, and to whose guardianship 
 and services were due the accomplishment of the journey 
 we have just narrated, which all the Portuguese at Tette 
 had previously pronounced impossible, were now to be 
 carried to their homes. Some of these Makololo had 
 formed domestic ties, and preferred to remain. On the 
 15th of May, the expedition started, only one woman 
 
AFRICANS BE8EMBLIN0 EGYPTIANS. 451 
 
 joining it. The expedition commeneed with short 
 marches. Some of the men deserted every night, to 
 return to their children at Tette; for children are the 
 strongest ties, even to slaves. By the time the party had 
 reached the Kebrabasa hills, nearly a third of the natives, 
 or thirty men, had turned back. At Defwe's village, near 
 where the ship lay on her first ascent, were found two 
 Mfumos, or head men, the son and son-in-law of the formet 
 chief A sister's son has much more chance of succeeding 
 to the chieftainship than the chief's own oflFspring, it being 
 unquestionable that the sister's child has the family blood. 
 The men are all marked across the nose, and up the 
 middle of the forehead with short horizontal scars ; and a 
 single brass earring, two or three inches in diameter, like 
 those of the ancient Egyptians, is worn by them. Some 
 wear their hair long, like the ancient Assyrians and Egyp- 
 tians, and a few have eyes slanting inward, like the 
 Chinese. There is so little difference in the languages 
 ' Bpoken by the tribes of this region, that they actually 
 belong to the same family. The natives in the valley of 
 f Zibah they found wealthier than those they had passed; 
 they have more cloth, ornaments, food, and luxuries. 
 Fowls, • eggs, sugar canes, sweet potatoes, ground-nuts, 
 . turmeric, tomatoes, chillies, rice, mapira {Solcus sorghum), 
 and maize were offered for sale in large quantities. The 
 mapira maj' be called the corn of the country. It is known 
 ' as Kaffir and Guinea corn in the south and west ; as dura 
 in Egypt, and badjery in India ; the grain is round and 
 .white, or reddish white, about the size of hemp seed. 
 Several hundred grains form a massive ear, on a stalk as 
 thick as a walking stick, and from eight to eighteen feet 
 high. Tobacco, hemp and cotton were also cultivated, as 
 they are all through Kebrabasa. Here, as in the Manganja 
 hills, in every village men were spinning and weaving 
 cotton of excellent quality. 
 
 After passing through the thirty-flve to forty miles of 
 Kebrabasa hills, the party, on the Tth of June, 1869, 
 
452 ADVBMTtmB WITH A LION. 
 
 entered upon the Chicova plains. At Chicova the Zambesi 
 expands, and resomes the size ajid appearance it had at 
 Tette. The party novr entering on a country where lions 
 ■were numerous, the camp at night was better arranged and 
 guarded, a dozen fires being kindled. Our illustration 
 shows the narrow escape made by one of the party in a 
 Kon hunt. At night the natives amuse themselves witk 
 music, talk and excited political discussions, chiefly con- 
 cerning the bad government of the chiefs ; and here, as 
 elsewhere, there are two parties. 
 
 In marching, the party rose at five, or as soon as dawn 
 appeared ; took a cup of tea and a biscuit, packed the 
 baggage and cooking utensils, and by sunrise were on the 
 way. About nine a. m., they stopped for breakfast. To 
 save time, this was generally carried cooked, and had 
 simply to be warmed. After breakfast, the march began 
 again ; and, after a rest in the middle of the day, ended 
 early in the afternoon. The average is two and a half 
 miles, in a straight line, and seldom took more than five or 
 six hours of adtual travel. This, in a hot climate, is as 
 much as can be done without exhaustion. Experience 
 shows that the Europeans had a greater power of endu- 
 rance than the hardiest of the meat-eating Africans. 
 
 The Chicova plains are very fertile, and formerly sup- 
 ported a large population, which has been decimated by 
 wars and slavery. The African women are* particular 
 about not taking their water for cooking from the river 
 directly, but dig holes in the sand near the bank, and take 
 the water which collects in them after filtering through the 
 •and. This custom is common in the Zambesi, the 
 Rovuma, and Lake Nyassa, and the Portuguese at Tette 
 have adopted it. The filth of the villages is deposited 
 about them for nine months in the year, and the rains wash 
 it all into the streams. Europeans in Africa who use the 
 river water, without this precaution, suffer from disease. 
 For the English navy on the coast, the water is now all 
 condensed, with excellent results in the better health of 
 the men. 
 
THE JUIfOTION or THB ZAMBESI AND LOANGWA. 456 
 
 The sight of white men seems to be naturally terrible to 
 the native Africans. When a village is entered for the 
 first time, the children, the women, the fowls and dogs all 
 run away, and the quiet scene becomes one of hubbub, 
 until the native interpreters explain. To the wild animals, 
 the scent of man appears to excite more fear even than his 
 sight. The sport is all gone for the hunter who gets to 
 the windward of his game. In Chicova, deposits of coal 
 are found, and the natives were taught that it would burn 
 — a fact of which they were at first incredulous. 
 
 On the 16th of June, the party arrived at the Senga, a 
 flourishing village lying at the foot of Mount Motemwa, 
 and under the control of Manyame. Chikwanitsela, or 
 Sekuauangila, is the chief ruler of about fifty miles of the 
 northern bank of the Zambesi, at this place. He lives on 
 the southern bank, and has there a still more extensive 
 kingdom. On the 20th of June, they reached a spot 
 through which Dr. Livingstone had passed in his journey 
 from the west to the east coast. The country north of the 
 mountains, here in sight from the Zambesi, is called Senga, 
 and its inhabitants Asenga or Basenga, but appear to be 
 of the same stock as the rest ,of the Manganja and MaravL 
 Formerly all the Manganja were united under their great 
 chief Undi, whose power extended from Lake Shirwa to 
 the river Loangwa ; but at his death, his empire became 
 disintegrated, and a large part of .it on the Zambesi was 
 absorbed by the Banyai. On the 26th of June, the party 
 arrived at Zambo, on the left hand of the Loangwa, near 
 the ruins of some ancient Portuguese houses. The site 
 chosen for the settlement was admirable, at the junction 
 of the Zambesi and Loangwa rivers. 
 
 The native hunter in Africa knows where he can find 
 water by the animals he sees. The presence of the gems- 
 buck, duiker or diver, springbucks, or elephants, is no proof 
 that water is near, since these animals roam over extensive 
 ranges of country. The zebra, pallah, buffalo, or rhinoce- 
 ros, show by their tracks that water is near, since they 
 
456 THE HONEY BIRD. 
 
 never stray far from it. The honey bird is one of th« 
 singular birds of Africa ; as soon as he sees a man, he flies 
 towards him, and having attracted his attention, leads him 
 to a nest of wild honey. As the party penetrated into the 
 interior, where no firearms had been used, the game in- 
 creased greatly. An instance of what was actually seen, 
 will show this. On the .3d of July, in the morning, a herd 
 of elephants passed within fifty yards of the party ; next a 
 large flock of Guinea fowls were seen ; then three varieties 
 of francolins ran across the path ; then hundreds of turtle 
 doves rose to the trees, as the party passed. Guinea fowls, 
 francolins, turtle doves, ducks and geese, are the game 
 birds of this region. At sunrise they passed a lierd of 
 pallahs ; next one of wateibucks ; tUeii aiiotliei" of doe 
 koodoos. About breakfast time a herd of buffaloes were 
 met ; after breakfast two elephants, with a herd of zebras, 
 and another of waterbucks, while in the distance many 
 antelopes grazing ; beyond these three cow buffaloes with, 
 their young, and on the edge of the forest a troop of 
 monkeys. In the early afternoon, more buffaloes and 
 Other animals are seen. 
 
 On the 6th of July, they camped on the left bank of the 
 Chongwe, where it comes through a gap in the hills, and 
 is twenty feet wide. The next day they passed through a 
 .thorny jungle. Here the party frequently met families 
 moving from one place to another, marching in single file, 
 the women carrying the heaviest loads of household furni- 
 ture, etc. These natives met the party without fear, or 
 any of the cringing so common down the river, where 
 slavery was established. Reaching the Kafue, the}' crossed 
 it on the 1 1th, and were then in the country of the Bawe. 
 Here barbed fish-hooks, of native make, were seen. The 
 people here are of Batoka origin, and call themselves 
 Batonga (Independents) or Balengi, and their language 
 differs only slightly from that of the Bakoa, who live 
 between the rivers Kafue and Loangwa. The chief of ttai« 
 district is called Nehomokela, a hereditary title. Immease 
 
THB TRIBE OP " SO-NAKEDS. " 461 
 
 cr(^)s of mapira (Holcus sorghum) are raised. The men 
 are skilful hunters, and kill elephants and buffaloes with 
 their long heavy spears. On the 14th of July, the party 
 left the river, at the mountain range. On the islands, and 
 on the left bank of the Zambesi, all the way from the river 
 Kafue, there is a large population ; the right bank is 
 equally fertile, but depopulated, because Moselckatse does 
 not allow any one to live there, who might raise an alarm 
 when he sends his marauders beyond. The Bawe were 
 very friendly ; some of them call themselves the " Baenda 
 pezi," or " Go-nakeds," their only clothing being a coat of 
 red ochre. The vicinity of the villages is usually cleared 
 and cultivated, but the country cannot be called well- 
 stocked with people. The Go-nakeds, when questioned 
 concerning their custom of going nude, said they always 
 had liked it. The sentiment of shame was wanting in them,- 
 arid they evidently felt quite as decent as we did dressed. 
 The party left the Zambesi at the mouth of the Zungwe, 
 or Mozamba, or Delta rivulet, up which it proceeded, first 
 westerly, and then north-westerlj'. They followed the 
 course of the Zungwe to the foot of the Batoka highlands, 
 up which they climbed to a height of over 3000 feet. From 
 this elevation a fine view was had of the great valley in 
 which the Zambesi flows. Only a few j'ears ago these 
 extensive highlands were peopled by the Batoka, who had 
 numerous herds of cattle, and also cultivated the ground. 
 Now not a man was to be seen, and the wild animals fat- 
 tened on the pastures. For a week, passing from Tabacheu 
 to Moachemba, the party constantly passed the ruins of 
 Batoka villages, without seeing a single person. The 
 Batoka were driven out of their noble country by inva- 
 sions of Moselckatse and Sebatuane. But though the 
 Batoka appear to have never had much inclination to fight 
 with men, they are very daring in hunting the elephant. 
 They had also become planters of trees, and had other 
 germs of civilization. They had sacred graveyards, and 
 buried their dead reverently. Some of the Batoka chiefs 
 
458 NATIVE APBIOAN POETS. 
 
 must havie been persons of ability — one of them had dug a. 
 canal, by which he protected his herds from invasion. 
 
 In travelling from the Kafue to the Zungwe, several 
 villages were often passed in a day's march ; and the party 
 was treated with such hospitality, that their course resem- 
 bled a triumphal procession. The people are largely 
 engaged in agriculture. For hours the line of march was 
 through unbroken fields of mapira, or native corn, which 
 were cultivated with the hoe. Owing to the ravages of the 
 Weevil, all the corn raised has to be consumed in the same 
 year, and hence great quantities of it are made into beer. 
 The beer these Batoka, or Bawe brew, is not the sour and 
 intoxicating boala or pombe found among other tribes, but 
 a. sweet and nutritive drink, slightly acid. 
 
 Among the Africans, as among every people, men of 
 ability occasionally appear ; but the want of any method 
 of writing prevents the recording of their wisdom. They 
 have poets too, who sing their chants in blank verse. 
 Ome such was attached to the expedition. He composed, 
 and sung his songs extempore, being never at a loss for a 
 word, and accompanied himself upon a native instrument 
 called the G^ansa, a wind instrument played with keys. 
 
 On the lower bank of the Zambesi, during the winter 
 months large quantities of tobacco are raised, and the peo- 
 ple are the most inveterate smokers. Their tobacco is very 
 strong, and very cheap, and they swallow the smoke; 
 taking a whiff, puffing out the first of it, and swallowing 
 the rest — the rear essence, they s&y, of the tobacco. 
 
 The people above Kariba had never before been visited 
 by foreigners. On the 4th of A.ugust, the party reached 
 Moacheraba, the first of the Batoka villages which now owe 
 allegiance to Sekeletu, and could see with the naked eye, in 
 the great valley spread out before them, the columns of 
 vapor rising from the Victoria Falls, though upwards of 
 twenty miles distant. The party was detained the whole 
 of the next day by the sickness of Charles Livingstone. 
 On the 8th he was better, and on the 9th the party 
 marched to the Great Falls. 
 
7T0T0BIA VALL8. 461 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 VIOTOEIA FALLS. 
 
 The native or Makololo name of Victoria Falls is Moat 
 oa-tunya, which means smoke sounding. The ancient nam* 
 was Scongo, or Chongwe, meaning the Rainbow, or place 
 of the Rainbow. The party embarked in canoes belonging 
 to Tnba Mokoro, an ominous name, meaning " smasher of 
 canoes ; " but he knew the medicine which insured against 
 canoe shipwreck. The party started to land at Garden 
 Island, situated near the middle of the river, and on the 
 lip of the Falls. Elephants and hippopotami have been 
 known to be carried over the Falls, and to be dashed, of 
 course, into pulp. The passage down the river, through 
 the rapids, to Garden Island, appeared most excitingly 
 dangerous. Tuba's orders were that no one should speak 
 a word. He stood at the head of the canoe, and a steers* 
 man at the stern. There were places in tne river where the 
 utmost exertion of both men were required to keep the 
 canoe in the course, or prevent it from beiiig carried broad- 
 side upon the rocks. Never was a canoe more dexterously 
 managed. Having reached Garden Island, from its point, 
 overhanging the falls, and suspended at that giddy height, 
 the wonderful and peculiar character of the magnificent 
 cascade burst upon the sight. The Victoria Falls diflfer 
 from Niagara in the method of their formation. Niagara 
 has been formed by wearing away the rock over which it 
 flows, and by this process has made a long and tolerably 
 straight trough in front of it. The Victoria Falls, how- 
 ever, have been formed by a crack right across the river in 
 the hard basaltic rock which forms the bed of the Zambesi. 
 The lips of the crack are still quite sharp, save about three 
 feet of the edge over which the water flows. The walls go 
 sheer down from the lips. When the convulsion occurred, 
 39* 
 
46t THE FORMATION OP THE FALLS. 
 
 which thus rent the bed of the stream, no change of level 
 took place in the two parts of the river bed thus rent, so 
 that at Garden Island the water suddenly disappears, and 
 on the opposite side of the reft can be seen the grass and 
 trees growing where once the river ran, on the same level 
 AS the present bed of the stream. The first crack is a little 
 over 1860 yards long, a little more than the width of the, 
 river. The river here runs nearly north and south, and tha 
 reft is nearly east and west. From the edge of the reft the 
 depth of the chasm was measured by a line let down, with 
 a weight attached. After paying out 310 feet, the weight 
 rested on a projection, about fifty feet above the water. 
 The, reft was found in its narrowest part, at Garden Island, 
 to be eighty yards wide. Into tliis chasm the river, full a. 
 mile wide, rolls with a deafening roar. 
 
 Looking from Garden Island into the chasm, down which 
 the river has poured, the water is seen to divide, one half 
 of it continuing its course through a narrow channel, 
 twenty or thirty yards wide, directly at a right angle with 
 its former course ; the other half, which fell over the eastern 
 portion of the Falls, flows toward our right, and these two 
 streams unite, midway, making a fearful whirlpool, and 
 finding an outlet in a crack which runs at right angles with 
 the reft forming the falls. This outlet is about 1170 yards 
 from the western end of the chasm, and about 600 from its 
 eastern end ; the whirlpool is at its commencement. For 
 About 400 feet, the Zambesi thus confined in a channel of 
 only twentj' or thirty 3'ards in width, surges south, and 
 then enters another chasm, nearly parallel with the first, 
 and somewhat deeper. Then turning sharply to the west, 
 the river flows round a promontory 1170 yards long and 
 416 broad at its base. Then turning round another pro- 
 montory, the river flows east in a third chasm, and again 
 turning another, it flows west; and this it repeats still again, 
 forming thus a zigzag channel for itself, the rocky bounda- 
 ries of which are all so sharply cut and angular, that it is 
 evident the channel must have been formed by some forc« 
 
RAINBOWS IN THE CHAiSM. 46S 
 
 acting from beneath, and rending the rocks in these 
 fissures. 
 
 The land beyond the Falls retains the same level that it 
 had before these rents were made. The tops of the promon- 
 tories are generally flat and covered with trees. The first 
 is in one part so narrow as to be dangerous to cross. On 
 the second the party found a rhinoceros track and a hut. 
 
 When the river is low, Garden Island commands the best 
 view of the chasm of the Palls, and also of the promontory 
 opposite, with its grove of trees ; the rainbows formed by 
 the ascending spray, arching about three quarters of a 
 circle, and numbering sometimes as many as four. Cross- 
 ing over to the promontory, the best A'iew is gained of the 
 Falls. First, at the west, is a fall thirty-six yards wide, 
 and, as they all are, 310 feet deep. Then a small island, 
 Boaruka, intervenes, and on its other side a fall blS yards 
 broad ; then a projecting rock, and another grand fall 325 
 yards wide, making in all 900 yards breadth of fall. Fur- 
 ther east is Gardeti Island, and the river being then low, a 
 good deal of the bare bed of rock was visible, but when 
 the river is high, here is nearly another half mile of con- 
 tinuous cascade. 
 
 The whole body of water rolls off the river unbroken ; 
 but, after a fall of about ten feet, seems suddenly to be- 
 come a mass of driven snow. From the chasm arise 
 columns of vapor, as if of steam, numbering sometimes as 
 many as six, and visible over twenty miles away. At a 
 height of about 200 hr 300 feet, these are condensed agaia 
 into a perpetual shower of fine rain, and in the morning, 
 are decorated with double and treble rainbows by the sun. 
 
 The ancient Batoka chiefs used Garden Island, or Kaze- 
 ruka, as it was then called, together with Boaruka, the 
 island further west, lying also on the lip of the falls, as 
 sacred spots for worship. 
 
 This fall was first visited by the first European in 1855, 
 when Dr. Livingstone passed it on his way to the* East 
 Coast. His visit then was of necessity so short that he 
 
464 MEAT-EATERS AND ORAIN-EATERS. 
 
 did not visit the opposite side of the chasm, or see the 
 wonderful course of the Zambesi beyond the Falls. It was 
 during this visit, however, that Garden Island was planted, 
 and the name given to it. 
 
 Continuing their expedition, the party crossed the Lekona 
 at its confluence, about eight days above the island Kalai, 
 and went on to a village opposite the island Chundu. Its 
 head man, Nambowe, was a Zulu, who had fled from the 
 anger of Moselekatse and taken refuge with the Makololo. 
 Among the coast tribes a fugitive is almost always made a 
 slave, but here he retains the rank he held at home. The 
 children of captives are also treated like the children of 
 their captors. The same system prevails among the Zulus 
 or Matebele. 
 
 On the 13th they met a party from Sekeletu, who was 
 then at Sesheke. On the ITth a messenger from Sekeletu 
 met them. These messengers will carry long messages 
 word for word, and one of the native objections to learning 
 to write, is that these messengers can carry any message 
 necessary to be sent. 
 
 Except the small rapidS by Mparira Islands, near the 
 mouth of the Chobe, the rest of the way to Sesheke by 
 water is smooth. The extensive plains along the banks 
 might easily be irrigated from the Zambesi, and be made 
 to support an immense population. Watered, they would 
 yield crops the year round. On the 18th the party arrived 
 at Sesheke. The old town, on the left bank, is in ruins ; a 
 new one has been built on the same side, a little further up. 
 
 The Makololo are great meat eaters, and when they go 
 on a foray, as they often do, for a month, many of the sub- 
 ject tribes who accompany them, being grain eaters, perish 
 from sheer fatigue, while the beef-eaters scorn the idea of 
 being even tired. From the experience gathered in Africa, 
 it would appear that meat eating men, like the carnivora 
 among animals, were much more fitted for eadurance of 
 Tioteut exercise than those who lived exclusively upon a 
 vegetable diet. 
 
MAKOLOLO WOMEN. 465 
 
 A constant stream of visitors called upon Dr. Living- 
 stone the day after his arrival. All were in low spirits; 
 drought had destroyed the crops ; Sekeletu, the head man, 
 believing himself bewitched, had killed a number of his 
 chief men, with their families, and others had fled ; a large 
 body of young Barotse had revolted and fled north ; the 
 Batoka under Siuamane and Moemba were independent, and 
 Mashotlane, at the Falls, were setting Sekeletu's authority 
 at defiance. Sekeletu had succeeded to his father, Se- 
 bituane, the Great Lion, as he was called, who, during his 
 reign, had conquered many tribes, but by his wise and just 
 treatment of them, receiving them on equal terms with hii 
 own Makololo, had made them his devoted adherents. The 
 son, however, by his folly and tj-^ranny, had alienated his 
 subjects, and the disruption of his empire, which occurred 
 a few years afterwards, at his death, was preparing at this 
 time. Sekeletu was sick with a skin disease, but was made 
 much better by Dr. Livingstone's treatment during the 
 time he was there. 
 
 The Makololo are by far the most Intelligent and enter- 
 prising of the tribes met by the expedition. Under Se- 
 bitnane the army had been sternly disciplined, and cow- 
 ardice eradicated, since the coward was inevitably killed. 
 The present race is, however, inferior to the last generation. 
 They were industrious workers, but their sons are more 
 effeminate, and consider labor as fit only for servants. 
 
 The Makololo women are the handsomest in Aftica. 
 Their complexion is a light, warm brown. They dreai 
 neatly and wear many ornaments. The sister of Sebituane, 
 who is the head lady of Sesheke, wore eighteen solid brass 
 rings, as thick as a finger, on each leg, and three of copper 
 under each knee ; nineteen brass rings on her left arm, and 
 eight of brass and copper on her right ; also, a large ivory 
 ring below each elbow. She had a pretty bead necklace, 
 and a bead sash round her waist. The weight of -her 
 rings impeded her walking, and chafed her ankles, but 
 she put a soft rag under them, and put up with the weight 
 
466 POLYGAMY IN AFRICA. 
 
 since it was tlie fashion to wear them. Polygamy is com- 
 mon all down the Zambesi ; a man is respected for the 
 number of wives he has. The reason for this is, probably, 
 that as the husband has the produce of each of the wives' 
 gardens, he is wealthy in proportion to the number of wives 
 he has. The husband gives to his wife's father a number 
 of cows, proportionate to his wealth, not as purchase money 
 for his wife, but in order to obtain possession of her chil- 
 dren, since, without this, they would belong to her father. 
 Should she die, the husband gives an ox, to compensate her 
 father for her entire loss. The wives of the rich have 
 servants to do their work for them, and, consequently, have 
 a. great deal of leisure, which they spend partly in sipping 
 beer and smoking ''bang," or Indian hemp, known as 
 matokwane, in secret, since the liusbands, though addicted 
 themselves to smoking, generally forbid their spouses from 
 so doing. The effect of smoking bang is peculiar ; it seems 
 to produce a mild species of frenzy, in which they utter 
 unmeaning words. Its physical effects are very bad ; it 
 gives rise to an eruption on the skin, and carried to excess 
 produces idiocy. The party was overrun with visitors, who 
 were interested in seeing the white men eat. They use a 
 spoon to put their food in their left hand, with which they 
 carry it to their mouths. Eating butter unmelted disgusted 
 them ; they never eat it except when melted into oil. 
 Otherwise it is raw, to them, and the only use they make 
 of it in this state is rubbing it on their bodies, to make 
 their skins glossy and smooth. They asked freely for gifts 
 of such things as they fancied, but were in no way offended 
 at being refused. 
 
 The King receives his tribute from everything produce^?, 
 and a part of all the game killed. Both tusks of the ele- 
 phants killed belong to him. He is expected, however, to 
 be generous, and give away a goodly share of his perqui- 
 sites of this kind. Justice is, on the whole, pretty well 
 dispensed among them. The natives who had accompanied 
 D::, Livingstone had letirEed from the EcgLsii that labor 
 
THE LABOR QBESTION IN AFRICA. 467 
 
 ought to be paid for, and they were zealous in advocating 
 this method. Nearly all these natives had learned to re- 
 peat the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed in their 
 own language, and were very proud of this accomplishment. 
 Flagrant disobedience to the chiefs orders is punished with 
 death, but Sekeletu rarely interfered with a native's right 
 to choose his head man, and if these are tyrannical, whole 
 villages often desert them. 
 
 The ancient costume of the Makololo consisted of the 
 ikin of a lamb, or other animal, worn around the loins; 
 and in cold weather a mantle of skin over the shoulders. 
 The young men now wear a jacket, and a skin round the 
 hips, but no trowsers, waistcoat, or shirt. The lake and 
 river tribes are generally quite cleanly, bathing several 
 times a day. The women use water sparingly, rubbing 
 themselve.s with butter instead ; this keeps off insects, but 
 does not improve the flavor of their clothes. The chief 
 and his head men were very anxious to have English people 
 settle on the Batoka highlands, and proposed to select a 
 place for them. As slave stealing is the gigantic evil with 
 the tribes near the coast, so with these inland pastoral 
 tribes cattle stealing, which they call lifting, is the great 
 evil. They justify it, if the chief has given permission for 
 one of these marauding trips. 
 
 On the Itth of September, 1870, the party left Sesheke, 
 accompanied by a band, and two young Makololo, with 
 their Batoka servants. On the night of the 17th they slept 
 on the left bank of the Majeele. 
 
 Dr. Livingstone now had an opportunity of seeing more 
 of the Batoka than he bad on the highland route to the 
 north. They put the pot on the fire, without waiting until 
 evening before offering food to the strangers. Both men 
 and women were distinguished by a greater roundness of 
 features than other natives, and their custom of knocking 
 out the front upper teeth. 
 
 The Batoka are a polite people in their way, though they 
 Gxpr3S3 it curious/.y. The ordinary way of salutation is 
 
468 COLOR A QTIEBTION OP CLIMATE. 
 
 for the women to clap their hands and make an ululating 
 sound ; the men stoop and clap their hands on their hips. 
 When they wish to be especially respectful, they throw 
 themselves on their backs, and roll from side to side, slap- 
 ping the outside of their thighs vigorously, and calling out 
 " Kina-bomba ! kina-bomba ! " with great energy. 
 
 The natives of Africa who live in elevated, dry situa- 
 tions, and are not obliged to work much in the sun, are 
 frequently of a light warm brown. In fact brown, not 
 black, is their color, and its darkness is probablj' caused 
 b}' the sun, and partly by something in the soil and climate 
 which is not yet understood. The color it appears is not a 
 question of race, since a wound, or scar, after a long resi- 
 dence in a hot climate, heals darker than the rest of the 
 body. It is nOt unusual to meet Europeans with hair 
 darker than that of the African, or with Africans whose 
 hair has a distinct reddish tint, and who have the same 
 nervo-sanguineoUs temperament as the Xanthous varieties 
 of other races. 
 
 Among the Batoka, as among other tribes, a strohg clan- 
 nish feeling prevails. Like the bushmen, the Batoka have 
 great skill in following the track of a wounded animal; 
 they are educated to do so. They are also excellent 
 climbers, being used to collect the wild fruits. On the 1st 
 of October the party encamped on the Kalomo, and found 
 the weather warmer than in August. At 3 p. m. the ther- 
 mometer, at four feet from the ground, stood 101° in the 
 shade. Though the weather had been dry, no rain having 
 fallen for months, the trees were commencing to put forth 
 leaves. A day or two after the thermometer stood 102° in 
 the shade, and under the tongue, or armpit, 99.5°, showing 
 this to be the temperature of the blood ; with the natives 
 it stood at 98°. 
 
 The Longkwe, or as the Makololo call it, the River of 
 Quai, or tobacco, comes in from the country of Moselekatse, 
 or from the southwest, and joins the Zambesi above Go- 
 longwe. On the 5th, after crossing some hills, the party 
 
THE PEICB OF CANOES. 411 
 
 rested at the village of Simariango. The natives were 
 workers in iron. They said tin was obtained from a people 
 in the North called Marendi, and that they had made 
 bracelets of it. This was the first time tin had been heard 
 of as being in the country. 
 
 On the 6th the party arrived at the island Chilombe, be- 
 longing to Sinamane, by whom we were well received. 
 The Zambesi here runs smooth and broad again. Sina- 
 mane is an active-looking man, of a light complexion, and 
 the ablest and most energetic of the Batoka chief the party 
 had yet met. He had been independent until lately, when 
 he had sent in his adhesion to Linyanti. His people culti- 
 vate large quantities of tobacco for the Makololo market. 
 They manufacture it into balls weighing about three quar- 
 ters of a pound each. Twenty of these are given for a 
 hoe. The Batoka plantations were frequent upon both sides 
 of the river. As the party sailed down, they were saluted 
 by the natives on the banks clapping their hands. 
 
 Moemba owns a rich island, Mosanga, a mile in length, 
 upon which his village stands. He and his people treated 
 the party with great hospitality. The party stopped at 
 Makonde's village to purchase canoes. The price of canoes 
 was considered large ; they paid for one twelve strings of 
 the cut-glass neck-beads, an equal. number of large blue 
 ones, the size of marbles, and two yards of gray calico. 
 
 The temperature of the Zambesi had increased 10° since 
 August, and was now 80°. The air was as high as 96° at 
 •unset. Africa differs from India in having cool nights, 
 and there is no doubt that Europeans can bear in Africa 
 an exposure to the sun which would be fatal in India, 
 This difference arises probably from the greater dryness 
 of the air in Africa. In his twenty-two years' experience 
 Dr. Livingstone had never heard of a case of sunstroke 
 In Africa, though head-dresses for protection are rarely 
 seen. 
 
 Oame in extraordinary abundance, especially from this 
 point to below the Kafue, is found. An hoiir's walk on the 
 
4T2 RETURN TO TETTE. 
 
 right bank, morning or evening, shows the country swarm- 
 ing with wild animals, the drought driving them all to the 
 river to drink. A few miles below Chikumbula's the party 
 found a herd of hippopotami, with a white one among 
 them. It was pinkish white, exactly like the color of the 
 albino. The so-called white elephant is just such a pinkish 
 albino as this animal. A few miles above Kariba it had 
 been noticed that in two small hamlets many of the inhabi- 
 tants had a similar affection of the skin. The same influ- 
 ences appear to have affected men and animals. When the 
 female hippopotamus has twins, she is said to kill one of 
 them. The tsetse, a poisonous kind of fly, which is deadly 
 to cattle, was found in various parts of this portion of 
 Africa. No one knows where these insects breed ; at a 
 certain season they all disappear, and as suddenly come 
 back. Though the natives are generally close observers 
 of nature, the^' could tell nothing about this insect's 
 habits. 
 
 After three hours' sail, on the 29th, the river was again 
 narrowed, by the mountains of Mhururaa, called Karivua, 
 into one channel, and rapids again appeared in the stream. 
 The scenery of this pass resembled that of Kebrabasa, 
 though inferior. The Karivua narrows are about thirty 
 miles long. They end at the mountain Roganora. On the 
 1st of November the party arrived at Zumbo, at the mouth 
 of the Loangwa, and on the 23d reached Tette, having be** 
 ■baomt a little over six months. 
 
'THE PIONHKB." 47* 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 A TRIP IN THE NEW BOAT, "THE PIONEER." 
 
 The Zambesi being very low, the party remained at Tette 
 until it rose a little, and on the 3rd of December left for 
 the Kongone, which was reached on the 4th of January, 1861. 
 
 On the 31st the new boat " The Pioneer" arrived from 
 England, but the weather prevented her venturing into the 
 harbor until the 4th of February. In other vessels thero 
 arrived Bishop Mackenzie, and six English missionaries 
 for the tribes of the Shire and Lake Nyassa, with five 
 colored men from the Cape. The bishop and missionaries 
 went in the Lyra man-of-war to Johanna, to leave the mis- 
 sionaries there, and returning go with the party to Rovuma. 
 On the 25th of February the Pioneer anchored in the 
 mouth of the Rovuma, and on the 9th the Bishop having 
 arrived, on the 11th the party proceeded on their way. The 
 scenery on the Rovuma, in its lowest part, is finer than that 
 on the Zambesi ; the current was as strong as that of the 
 Zambesi, but the volume of the water was less. Finding 
 too little water when only thirty miles up the stream, it 
 was decided to return to the Shire, and afterwards explore 
 the Rovuma and Lake Nyassa from the lake downwards. 
 
 Touching at Mohilla, one of the Comoro Islands, there 
 was found a mixed race of Arabs, Africans and their con^ 
 querors, the natives of Madagascar. Then to Johanna, 
 whence with the missionaries, the party sailed for the Kon- 
 gone mouth of the Zambesi ; reached the coast in seven 
 day», and passed up the Zambesi to the Shire. 
 
 The Pioneer was found to be admirably adapted for the 
 purpose she was built for, except that her draft was too 
 deep, being five feet. She had been designed to draw only 
 three feet, but the weight added to give her suflBcient 
 strength,' had sunk her two feet more. In consequence she 
 40* 
 
ili PEEBINO A PAKTT OP SLAVES. 
 
 was delayed in one instance a fortnight on a sand bank. 
 On arriving at Cliibisa's the expedition learned that there 
 was war in the Manganja country, and that the slave-trade 
 was going on briskly. On the 15th of July the party 
 started for the highlands, to show the Bishop the best 
 place for coolness and altitude, for the station. Reaching 
 Mbame's village, they were told that a gang of slaves were 
 about to pass through. Soon after they came in sight, 
 eighty-four of them, chiefly women and children, chained 
 together in single file. The men were fastened with forked 
 sticks, six or seven feet long, about their necks, the prongs 
 of the fork riveted with iron. The slave-dealers came in 
 triumphantly, but on sight of the English fled. The slaves 
 were freed, and taken as a commencement of a mission set- 
 tlement. Having thus commenced, in the course of a day 
 or two, numerous other bands of slaves were freed. A tem- 
 porary seat for the mission was selected on the Magomero, 
 and there the exploring party left the Bishop and the rest, 
 and returned to the ship to prepare for a journey to Lake 
 Nyassa. 
 
 On the 6th of August, 1861, the party started with a 
 four-oared gig. The party followed the river for the most 
 part, but a good road could be made over the country 
 lying inland. Some of the five main cataracts are very 
 grand. The river falls 1 200 feet in 40 miles. After pass- 
 ing the cataracts they reached the broad and deep water 
 of the Upper Shire. The natives regard this river as a 
 prolongation of Lake Nyassa, the current being very 
 gentle, not more then a mile an hour, while that of the 
 Lower Shire is from two to two and a half The Makololo 
 attendants accompanied the party on the right bank, and 
 passed thousands of Manganja fugitives living in tempo- 
 rary huts, having been driven from their villages on the 
 opposite hills by the Ajawa. On the 2nd of September the 
 party sailed into Lake Nyassa. 
 
 Nowhere else in Africa had there been found so dense a 
 population as that on the shores of Lake Nyassa. In th« 
 
A DENSE POPULATION. 4'r5 
 
 Bouthern part there is an almost unbroken chain of villages. 
 "Wherever they landed thej"- were surrounded with eager 
 curious crowds. On the whole they were civil. They cul- 
 tivate the soil, raising quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, 
 maize, mapira and millet. In the north cassava is the 
 chief crop, which with fish, kept until its flavor is high, 
 forms the staple food of the people. In the north at certain 
 seasons a small insect or midge comes in clouds, filling the 
 air to a great height. The people gather them at night, 
 and bake a cake from them; they are called "Kuugo," and 
 the cake is said to taste not unlike caviare, or salted locusts. 
 The lake was full of various varieties of fish, most of 
 ■which were new ; the natives are expert fishermen, being 
 occupied chiefly in the night. They make nets from 
 " buaze," netting with a needle such as we use. They raise 
 cotton and make cloth from it, and also from a certain 
 kind of bark, from an undescribed tree. 
 
 They are by no means handsome. The pelele is worn 
 by all the women ; some of them wear one in the^ lower lip 
 as well. A very fashionable style of ring for this ornament 
 is made from a kind of red pipe-clay. All the natives are 
 tattoed from head to foot, the figures designating the tribes. 
 The Matumboka, or Atimboka, raise small knobs on their 
 faces, which make them look as though covered with warts. 
 The young girls are good looking until they add this charm. 
 Owing to the extreme scantiness of materials used in their 
 dresses, they are indescribable ; their teeth are cut into 
 points, like a cat's. They are generous with what they 
 have. The northern chief Marenga, whose domain extended 
 from Dambo to the north of Makuza Hill, treated the party 
 Yery generously. Showing Dr. Livingstone his bracelet of 
 iron studded with copper, he asked whether there were such 
 in his country ; and on being told no, he took it off' and 
 gave it to the Doctor, his wife doing the same with hers. 
 
 By Chitanda, for the first time in AiVica, the party was 
 robbed. It was done one night while they were asleep. 
 They could not suspect the people of the village, and 
 
4T6 L©ST FOE FOUR DAT& 
 
 thought it most probable that the thieves had followed 
 them, for some time looking out for an opportunity. The 
 burying places of the natives here are well cared for, the 
 graves running north and south ; the sex of the buried is 
 shown by the broken implements they had used while living. 
 The northern portion of the lake is the abode of lawless- 
 ness and bloodshed. The Mazite or Mazitu live on the 
 highlands and make incursions on the plains. They are 
 Zulus, who came originally from the south, and are of the 
 same family as those who levy tribute yearly from the Por- 
 tuguese on the Zambesi. All the villages north of Man- 
 kambira's (lat. 11° 44' south) had been recently destroyed 
 by these terrible marauders, but in their attacks upon that 
 chief and Marengo they had been foiled, the thickets and 
 stockades round the villages protecting the bowmen inside, 
 while the Mazitu were afraid to venture where they could 
 not use their shields. 
 
 ■ Here Dr. Livingstone, with a few companions, went 
 ashore, intending to meet the boat at a point lower down, 
 and within sight. They missed each other, however, and 
 for four days the land party were in considerable danger 
 from the Mazitu ; but having finally found each other, the 
 whole party were again united, and returned to Mankam- 
 bira's. This was the last latitude taken, 11° 44' S. The 
 end of the lake, it is supposed, lies on the southern borders 
 of 10°, or the northern limits of 11°, south latitude. 
 
 The party reached the ship on the 8th of November, 
 1861, quite weak from hunger, from which they had suf- 
 fered more than in any other trip. Bishop Mackenzie came 
 down to the ship on the 1 4th. The Ajawa had been de- 
 feated and driven away, and many of the Manganja had 
 settled round Magomero in order to be under his protection. 
 He hoped that the slave-trade would soon cease in the high- 
 lands, and the people be left in secure possession of the 
 fruits of their industry. 
 
 The rains became pretty general towards the close of 
 December, and the Shire was in flood early in January, 
 
"THE LADY NYASSA." 471 
 
 i862. At Mbama's village it was told that Mariano had 
 been allowed to return from Mozambique, and was at his 
 old trade of stealing the Manganja and selling them as 
 slaves. Arriving at the Zambesi it was found that the 
 Portuguese had established a station on an island opposite 
 the mouth of the Shire. Captain Alvez, the officer in cora^ 
 mand, visited the ship, and said that the occupation of tha 
 island was only temporary, and only in consequence of 
 Mariano's escape and rebellion. The expedition entered 
 the Zambesi on the 11th of January, and steamed towards 
 the coast, taking the same side they had taken on the way 
 up ; but the channel had changed since then, so that they 
 ran aground, but got off without injury. Thej^ anchored on 
 the Great Luabo mouth of the Zambesi, on account of the 
 greater ease in getting wood, and on the 30th the govern- 
 ment steamer Gordon arrived, bringing Mrs. Livingstone 
 and some ladies to join the -mission, together with an iron 
 steamer in twentj'-four sections, intended for the naviga- 
 tion of Lake Nyassa. The new steamer was called the 
 Lady of the Lake, or the Lady Nyassa. A party having 
 started to carry the ladies to the mission, returned having 
 heard of the death of the Bishop. The sections of the 
 new steamer were carried to Supanga, where they were to 
 be put together. Here Mrs. Livingstone died from fever, 
 on the 27th of April, 1862, and was buried under the shade 
 of a large baobab tree. The new steamer was then put 
 together and successfully launched on the 23rd of June. 
 The Inquiries of the natives concerning the habits of the 
 tsetse, in, order to discover some way of getting rid of this 
 pest, resulted practically in nothing. Some claimed that 
 they laid their eggs in certain trees, others that they were 
 deposited in the droppings of the buffalo. The only chance, 
 in Dr. Livingstone's opinion, of getting rid of these poison- 
 ous flies, is the extermination of the game, by advancing 
 civilization. When the Lady Nyassa had been got all 
 ready. It was found that the waters of the Zambesi and 
 Shire had, fallen too low for navigation, until the rains of 
 
4T8 EXPLORING THE ROVUMA. 
 
 December. A stock of provisions were therefore sought 
 at the island of Johanna, and it was determined to explore 
 the Rovuina. Cattle cannot live on the banks of the Ro- 
 vuma on account of the tsetse. The river was so low, that 
 the boats had to be drawn over the shallow places. The 
 Zambesi men showed great skill in finding out the proper 
 channel. The natives are Makonde, and are on friendly 
 terms with the Mabiha and the Makoa, who live south of 
 the Rovuma. Their language differs considerably fromi 
 that in use on the Zambesi, but belongs to the same family. 
 On the 16th of September the party arrived at the inha- 
 Tiited island of Kiehokomane. At first the inhabitants 
 were shy, but soon opened a trade for fowls and meal. 
 
 On the left bank, above Kiehokomane, is a very fertile 
 plain, nearly two miles broad, and filled with deserted vil- 
 lages. The inhabitants had fled leaving every thing, for 
 fear of being made slaves of Above this village a large 
 crowd gathered on the banks with the evident intention to 
 fight. After a long parley, however, they were persuaded 
 that the party came merely for exploration. " This was 
 their river," they said finally ; " they did not allow the 
 white men to pass over it, unless they paid toll." As it 
 was pay or fight, the party paid thirty yards of cloth, and 
 the natives then swore to be their friends for ever after, 
 and to have food cooked for them when they returned. 
 After these protestations, and when the party were congra- 
 tulating themselves upon the settlement, suddenly without 
 a word of warning, the natives fired a volley from their 
 muskets and bows and arrows. No one was hurt, and the 
 natives all ran away at a return fire. The slave-trade is 
 the cause for making the natives of this part of Africa 
 blood-thirsty and treacherous. This people has a bad 
 name among the natives themselves. On their return the 
 party was, however, not molested. 
 
 In the country of Ohonga Michi, about 80 or 90 miles 
 up the river, the people, though of the same tribe, were 
 fc un J to be quite decent. A bouy oi ikiaicoa. haa come frciE. 
 
A SCANTILY CLOTHED tBOPLB. 479 
 
 their own country south and settled there. The Makoa are 
 known by a scar on their foreheads in the shape of a new 
 moon with the horns turned down. They possess all the 
 land west of Mozambique, and will not allow any Portu- 
 guese to pass into it more than two hours from a fort. The 
 Makoa chief, Matingula, was hospitable and communicative. 
 His people preferred a plain cloth, with which they were 
 acquainted, to one with gaudy patterns on it. They collect 
 honey by putting hives upon the trees. A few miles west 
 of the Makoa of Matingula the party again met the Ma- 
 konde, but now of good repute. The men were very black, 
 and wore but little clothing. A young woman brought a 
 canoe full of girls to see the party ; she managed her canoe 
 most dexterouslJ^ She wore an ornament on the side of 
 her head made of red beads, a neck-lace of beads of various 
 colors ; two brass bracelets on her left arm, and about a 
 farthing's worth of cloth, where cloth is cheapest. 
 
 When, according to their measurement, the party had 
 ascended 156 miles, their further progress was arrested by 
 the narrowness and rocky character of the channel. The 
 party came to a halt just below the island of Nyamatolo, 
 long. 38^ 36' E., and lat. 11° 53' S. The Rovuma is re- 
 markable for the high lands that flank it for about eighty 
 miles from the sea. Its cataracts are found only in the 
 level parts, with hills only in the distance, while those of 
 other rivers occur in the mountains. Two days, or thirty 
 miles beyond where the party turned back, the Rovuma ia 
 joined by the Lienda, which coming from the south-west, 
 rises in the mountains on the east side of Nyassa. The 
 Rovuma itself comes from the W. N. W., and after passing 
 the junction of the Lienda at Ngomano, or " meeting 
 place," the river is found to be narrow, and the people 
 Ajawa. The Nyamatolo people have an abundance of food, 
 and cultivate the ground extensively. Their homes are in 
 the woods, the island being simply their summer residence. 
 Boabab trees on the Rovuma, thougli smaller than those 
 on the Zambesi, bear fruit more tban tTvice as large. The 
 
480 OROOODILE EGGS. 
 
 crocodiles in the Rovuma are hunted industriously, and 
 eaten when caught. The eggs are also carefully searched 
 for in the banks. The female crocodile digs a hole with 
 her foot, about a foot deep, and covers her eggs in it, leav- 
 ing them until the river rises over them, in about three 
 months after, when she returns to help the young ones out. 
 The yolk of the egg is nearly as white as the albumen. 
 They taste like hen's eggs, with perhaps a smack of custard, 
 in one nest thirty-flve freshly laid eggs were found. 
 
 On the 9th of October the party returned to the Pioneer, 
 having been away one month. They found that a condenser 
 had been sent out from England, and the crew had been 
 using the water, with a marked exception from fever in 
 consequence. There was not on board a single case, though 
 the year before when lying in the same spot there had 
 been many. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 THE OAXAEACTS OP THE SHIRE. 
 
 On the 18th of October, the expedition party put to sea, 
 and touching at Johanna, obtained a crew of Johanna 
 men, with a supply of oxen, and then set sail for the Zam- 
 besi. At the end of November, they entered the Zambesi, 
 but found the water so low that they did not reach Shu- 
 pango until the 19th of December. The Shire having risen, 
 on the 10th of January the expedition started with the 
 Lady Nyassa in tow. They found that the country had 
 been desolated by Mariano, in his prosecution of slaving. 
 For scores of miles the entire population had been swept 
 away, and the villages burnt down. The dead bodies 
 floated down the stream in such quantities, that every 
 morning the floats of the paddle wheels had to be cleared 
 

 ■ ij 
 
 
 *. 
 
 ■n 
 
 ■r 
 
 * 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 V 
 
 M 
 
 il 
 
OKOCODILES AND ALLIOATOBS. 483 
 
 of those which bad been stopped by them at night. The 
 Shire swarmed with crocodiles, sixty-seven were counted 
 on a single banli. The natives eat them, but the flesh la 
 too strong in flavor to please a fastidious taste. Tho 
 crocodile differs from the alligator in these points. The 
 alligator has its fourth or canine tooth fitting into a hole 
 in the upper jaw, while in the crocodile it fits into a 
 notch. The fore foot of the crocodile has five unwebbed 
 toes, the hind foot has fo,ur toes webbed ; in the alligator 
 the web is wanting altogether. When the crocodile finds 
 plenty of fish, it is not to be feared ; but when the rivers 
 are high, the fish desert their usual haunts, and there being 
 no necessity on the part of other animals to come to the 
 rivers for water, the crocodiles sufier from hunger. They 
 lie in wait for persons who come to the stream to draw 
 water, and thus on the Zambesi annually destroy many 
 women. A famine caused by drought had completed the 
 desolation caused by the slave trade ; so that had the party 
 known how desolate the valley of the Shire was, they 
 would not have attempted its exploration. 
 
 Supposing that if a steamer could be got upon the lake, 
 it would be possible to put a stop to the slave trade, the 
 Lady Nyassa was taken apart at a rivulet about five hun- 
 dred yards below the first cataract, and a road was com* 
 menced over the thirty-five or forty miles of land porterage, 
 in order to carry her up in pieces. The chief labor in 
 making the road was cutting down the trees. No tsetse 
 infested this district, so that the cattle brought from 
 Johanna flourished on the abundant pasture. At the 
 uppermost cataract, the road was 1200 feet above the sea 
 level. The desolation of the country obliged the party to 
 live upon salt provisions and preserved meats, which made 
 dysentery universal among them. Dr. Livingstone had an 
 attack which lasted a month, and reduced him to a shadow ; 
 and it was decided that all the whites who could be spared 
 should return to England, for which place they set out on 
 the 19th of May. 
 
i84 POISONS USED IM AFRICA. 
 
 After completing a few miles of the road, and breaking 
 in the oxen, it was thought best to seek for provisions, by 
 going in a boat above the cataracts to the tribes at the 
 foot of Lake Nyassa, who were untouched by the Ajawa 
 invasion. Pr. Livingstone and a companion therefore set 
 -nt to see whether a boat, which had been previously hung 
 up under a shady tree to protect it, was still in good con- 
 dition, before attempting to carry a boat round the cata- 
 racts. The Pioneer was left in charge, of the gunner, her 
 decks protected from the weather with a roof of thatch, 
 and the discipline of a navj' ship was kept up, in order to 
 guard the crew from sickness, by constant employment. 
 
 On the 1 6th of June, Dr. Livingstone started for the 
 upper cataracts. Their attempts to shoot buffaloes on the 
 way failed. The long grass prevented their seeing the 
 animals, and the buffalo birds gave their charge notice of 
 the hunters' approach in time for the animals to get away. 
 The natives hunt with poisoned strrows, which are barbed, 
 the barb being only slightly connected' with the shaft of the 
 arrow. When the animal is shot, the shaft of the arrow 
 falls out, or is soon knocked out by coming in contact 
 with the shrubs, while the barbed and poisoned part 
 remains fastened in the wound. The poison used in this 
 portion of Africa is called Kombi, and is made from a 
 , species of Strophanthus. It is very virulent, and seems to 
 act by lowering the pulse. All kinds of animals, except 
 the elephant and hippopotamus, are killed by these poisoned 
 arrows ; these animals are so large that the small quantity 
 carried into the wound by the arrow, does not affect them 
 seriously. 
 
 At Lake Nyassa, another poison is used exclusivelj^ it 
 is said, for killing men. The Bushmen of the northern 
 part of the Kalahari poison their arrows with the entrails 
 of a certain kind of caterpillar, which they call 'Nga. This 
 poison, it is said, produces delirium. 
 
 A species of grass in the path had barbed seeds, which 
 entered the clothes, and produced a great irritation of th» 
 
*i2SDr» ^'^ -Willis?' 
 
NATIVE BTJPERSrrMON. 48T 
 
 sbin ; the inside of one's stockings became worse than the 
 roaghest hair cloth. It is, however, fine fodder. Tlie 
 party followed the native narrow paths, though sometimes 
 these lead nowhere. Still it was better to use them, poor 
 as they were, than to attempt to open a way through the 
 forest. On passing Malango, near the upper cataract, 
 not a soul was to be seen, the inhabitants having fled and 
 hid to escape the Ajawa. Those of the Manganja whom 
 they found, came readily to them, but the majority had 
 lost confidence in themselves and every one else. On 
 reaching the spot, they found their boat had been burned, 
 most probably in one of the yearly conflagrations of the 
 grass. The nails, iron, and copper sheathing lay on the 
 greund beneath the tree upon which the boat had hung. 
 Thus disappointed about their boat, and desiring to find 
 level ground, so that thej' could bring up another, they 
 passed across from the Shire at Malango to the upper 
 part of the stream Lesungwe. On the way, occupying a 
 well built hut, which had been shut up for some time, the 
 air gave us a chill and a fever. Ventilating with a fire 
 early in the morning, even in the hottest weather, is a 
 preventive against this danger. 
 
 On the 1st of July, 1863, in the night, loud claps of 
 thunder awoke the party, though the moon was shining 
 brightly, and not a cloud to be seen. Next morning, the 
 natives, speaking of it, said : " We thought it was God " 
 (Mornngo). They are superstitious about the storms, but 
 not quite so much so as some of the tribes of the more 
 southern part of Africa. There the Namaquas shoot their 
 poisoned arrows at the storms to drive them away, while 
 other tribes fling stones at the clouds. 
 
 On the 2d of July, the party arrived at the ship, and 
 found despatches from England. Soon after, the party 
 again set out, carrying with them a small wagon, drawn by 
 six oxen, and loaded with a boat. There were twenty 
 natives — some of them Johanna men — to manage the oxen, 
 aad oerform other necessary work. As soon as they had. 
 
488 THE BOAT LOST AT THE FALLS. 
 
 however, passed the small piece of road built, the difficul- 
 ties in the way were seen to be practically insurmountable, 
 from the time it would take. The Ajawa and Manganja 
 settled at Chibisa's were, therefore, sent for, and they 
 taking the boat upon their shoulders, carried it, in a few 
 days, past all the cataracts but one. Between the last two 
 cataracts, they took advantage of a still reach of the river 
 to haul the boat a couple of miles. The Makololo, accus- 
 tomed to rapids, had her in charge. Finding the rapids 
 too strong, they resolved to take the boat out of the water, 
 and carry it round the last cataract. Five Zambesi men, 
 feeling that they could manage her, took an opportunity, 
 when no one was looking, to get three of them into the 
 boat before it was lifted from the water, while two hauled 
 on the rope. All at once the current struck her, the rope 
 broke, those in the boat leaped out for their lives, and, 
 like an arrow, she shot over the cataract, shattering her- 
 self to pieces, and destroying the result of all their labor 
 and hope. The five men, who were the cause, approached 
 with the sheepish air of children who have broken a milk 
 pitcher ; but they were forgiven, their only sentence being 
 to go back to the ship for provisions. 
 
 The cataracts on the Shire begin in 15° 20' S., and end 
 in lat. 15° 55' S. ; the difference in latitude is, therefore, 
 35'. The river runs here nearly north and south till we 
 pass Malango, so that the distance is under forty miles. 
 There are five principal cataracts, and three or four smaller 
 ones. The lesser descend at an angle of about 20°, the 
 larger fall 100 feet in 100 yards, at. an angle of 45°, and 
 one at an angle of 10°. The entire descent from the Upper 
 to the Lower Shire is 1200 feet. 
 
 On the 15th of August, the men came back from the 
 ship with provisions, and the party started with light 
 hearts. The weather was cool, and on the 19th they Were 
 on the marck. The intention was to proceed parallel with 
 Lake Kyassa, at some distance from it, so as to pass tho 
 Zulus near its northern end, without touching them ; to 
 
BAYBYE COSTUMES. 
 
A VOMAN OHIEy. 491 
 
 ascertain whether any large river flowed into the lake 
 from the west ; to visit Lake Moelo, if there was time, and 
 collect information concerning the slave trade in this 
 quarter. On the 20th of August, finding a few people 
 almost starving, it was learned that food could not be 
 found nearer than Lake Pamalombe, where the Ajawa 
 chief Kainka was living, or with the Maravi female chief, 
 Nyango. The party, therefore, turned northwestward, and 
 struck the Ribve-ribve, or Rivi-rivi, which rises in the 
 Maravi range, and flows into the Shire. The people along 
 the Rivi-rivi had defended themselves against the Ajawa, 
 and were willing to sell their maize, but they could not be 
 persuaded to lead the party to their chieftainess, Nyango. 
 
 A simple gun trap used by us to protect the camp from 
 the prowling depredations of the hyena, is shown in the 
 foregoing illustration. 
 
 The varieties of costume worn by the various tribes of 
 Africa, to be fully illustrated, would require a plate for 
 almost every tribe. A fair idea, however, can be gained 
 of the general character of the dress they wear by the cut 
 showing the costume of the Bayeye. Arriving at Chin- 
 samba's two stockades, on the banks of the Lintipe, the 
 party learned that the Mazitu had been repulsed the day 
 before. ' Taking Chinsamba's advice to avoid the Mazitu, 
 the party continued their route on the 5th of September to 
 ■ the north-east, reaching the lake, and continued their 
 march on its shore. On the 10th of September, the party 
 arrived at Kota-kota Bay, and, continuing their march, 
 found that no large river emptied into the north end of the 
 lake. The dispatch received at the Pioneer having 
 ordered the expedition to return, the party now pushed 
 back, and reached the ship the 11th of November. From 
 Zanzibar to Bombay, Dr. Livingstone himself navigated 
 the Lady Nyassa, with a crew chiefly composed of natives, 
 though the trip was a very rough one. From Bombay, 
 Dr. Livingstone proceeded to England, where he was 
 received most enthusiastically. 
 
492 THE THIRD EXPEDITION. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 DE. LIVINGSTONE'S LAST EXPEDITION TO AFRICA. 
 
 Dr. Livingstone left England on his third tour of 
 exploration August 14th, 1865. Erora England he went 
 to Paris, and from Paris to Bombay, and from thence to 
 Zanzibar. He thence, on March 28th, 1866, crossed to the 
 mainland, and started for the interior by way of Rovuma. 
 His object was to push, by way of the Rovuma, to the 
 northern extremity of Lake Nyassa. In this expedition, 
 he was aided by the government, and was given consular 
 authority, having been appointed Consul for Inner Africa. 
 In December, a number of the natives who had accom- 
 panied him, returned and stated that he had been killed 
 by a party of Mazitus, on the shore of Lake Nyassa. This 
 news was sent to the English Government by Dr. Seward, 
 the British Political Resident at Zanzibar, in a letter to 
 Lord Stanley, the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs. 
 The letter was date'd December 10th, 1866, and gave quite 
 a detailed account of Dr. Livingstone's death. The man 
 who reported that he had been able most wonderfully to 
 escape, narrated the particulars of the contest in which the 
 Doctor lost his life with great particularity of detail. 
 According to this account, the date of Livingstone's death 
 was placed about the middle of September. The native 
 who gave this account was also examined bj' Dr. Kirk, of 
 Zanzibar, who wrote a full description of his examination. 
 
 The account was, however, not believed universally. 
 Dr. Livingstone's friend. Sir Roderick Impey Murchison, 
 the President of the Royal Geographical Society, and at 
 whose instance chiefly Livingstone had undertaken this 
 last exploration, disbelieved the story. Another disbe- 
 liever in the story was Mr. E. 0. Young, an African 
 explorer and trader. The notorious unreliability of many 
 cf the persons, like the man who brought the news, and 
 
QOVE&NMENT SEARGH EXPEDITIONS. 493 
 
 the fact that his story was a cover for receiving his own 
 wages, were the chief reasons wliy those acquainted with 
 the subject disbelieved his tale, notwithstanding its circum- 
 stantial character. The Ro^al Geographical Society had 
 received letters from Dr. Livingstone up to February, 1 867. 
 In October, 1867, they had heard that he was at TJjiji, on 
 Lake Tanganyika. The London Times for October 20, 
 1868, printed a letter from Sir R. I. Murchison, in which 
 he said he thought Dr. Livingstone was alive, and waa 
 coming home ; and that this rumor was current in Zan- 
 zibar. 
 
 Previous to this, an English expedition in search of Dr. 
 Livingstone left England in June, 1867, under the com- 
 mand of Mr, E. 0. Young, and arrived at the Zambesi on 
 the 25th of July. Six weeks after they reached the foot 
 of Lake Nyassa, and having gathered reliable information 
 that Dr. Livingstone was safe and sound, near Ujiji, they 
 returned home. March 30th, 1868, Dr. Kirk, at Zanzibar, 
 received news of Livingstone which he considered reliable, 
 it being brought from the interior by some traders, but 
 from that date until Jul3', 1872, nothing reliable was heard 
 from the intrepid explorer. 
 
 In 1871 another expedition in search of Livingstone was 
 sent out by the English Government, and in the summer 
 of that year Stanley had started upon his search. 
 
 The following extract from a speech delivered by Stanley 
 before the British Association, gives a most graphic account 
 of the planning of this expedition. He said : " While I 
 was following my duties at Madrid, I received a telegram 
 to come to Paris on important business. I went and found 
 Hr. James Gordon Bennett, the j'ounger, of the New York 
 Herald. I found him in bed. I knocked at his door. He 
 •aid come in, and then demanded my name. 
 
 " 'My name is Stanley.' 
 
 " ' Oh I you are the man I want. Do you know where 
 Dr. Livingstone is V 
 
 " I said ; ' I declare to you I do not.' 
 42 
 
194 THB ORIGIN Of THE 6TANI.ET EXPBDITI(«. 
 
 " ' Do you suppose he is alive ?' 
 
 " ' I really don't know.' 
 
 " 'What do you think of it?' 
 
 " ' It- passes my comprehension,' 
 
 " ' Well, I think he is alive, and I want you to find 
 him!' 
 
 " I thought it was a most gigantic task, but I dared not 
 Bay no to Mr. Bennett. I answered : 
 
 " ' If 3'ou send me to Central Africa, I shall go there.' 
 
 " He said : ' "Well, go. I believe he is alive, and you can 
 find him 1 ' 
 
 " I said : ' Mr. Bennett, have you the least idea how 
 much that little journey will cost ? The Burton and Speke 
 expedition cost between £2000 and £4000. Are you ready 
 to incur that expense ?' 
 
 "Mr. Bennett replied: 'Draw £1000, and when that is 
 finished draw another £1000 ; and when that is done draw 
 another £1000 ; and when you have got rid of that, draw 
 another, and another ! ' " 
 
 The first information received of the success of Stanley's 
 search, was a letter in the Lahore Chronicle (E. I.), of May 
 21st, 18T2, dated at Zanzibar, and mentioning reports that 
 Livingstone and Stanley were at Ujiji, having arrived there 
 from a cannibal country, and that they were living in the 
 same house. This report was received incredulously in 
 some quarters, hut on July 15th, the Herald printed letters 
 from Stanley, dated Kwihara, TJnyanj'embe, Sept. 20th, 
 1811; Ujiji, Lake Taganyika, Nov. 10th, 1811, and Kwi- 
 hara, Feb. 21st, 1872, and March 12th, ISIS, in which an 
 account was given of the progress and success of the exptv 
 dition, and from which we give the following extract : 
 
 " Two marches more, and we are entering the suburbs of 
 Ujiji, firing away our guns as only exuberant heroes do, 
 to the intense astonishment of the Arabs of Ujiji, who 
 turned out en ma.sse to know what it meant. Among those 
 who came to question us were the servants of Dr. Living- 
 stone, who shortly ran ahead in hasto to inform him that 
 
|] ^ -■>..<^ : 
 
THE MEETING OF STANLEY AND LIVINGSTONE. 49t 
 
 an Englishman, was coming. ' Sure, sure, he was an Eng- 
 lishman,' they said, though the American flag was in their 
 front, held aloft by the stout arms of my gigantic Kiran- 
 gozi. We entered slowly, the -immense number of people 
 who had collected about us impeding rapid progress As 
 we advanced, the crowd became larger and more mingled 
 with the chief Arabs, and the noise of firing and shouting 
 became deafening. Suddenly tiie firing and hubbub ceased ; 
 the van of the expedition had halted. Passing from tho 
 rear of it to the front, I saw a knot of Arabs, and in the 
 centre, in striking contrast to their sunburt faces, was a 
 pale-looking and gray-headed white man, in a navy cap, 
 with a faded gold band about it, and red woollen jacket. 
 This white man was Dr. David Livingstone, the hero 
 traveller, the object of the search. It was the dignity that 
 a white man, and leader of an expedition ought to possess, 
 that prevented me from running to ahalce hands with the 
 venerable traveller ; but when I first caught sight of him — 
 the man with whose book on Africa I was first made 
 acquainted when a boy — so far away from civilization, it 
 was very, tempting. False pride and the presence of the 
 grave looking Arab dignitaries of Ujiji restrained me, and 
 suggested me to say, with a shake of the hand : 
 " ' Dr. Livingstone, I presume.' 
 " ' Yes,' was the answer, with a kind smile. 
 " Together we turned toward his house. We took seatt 
 on the goatskins spread over the mud floor of his veranda. 
 Conversation began, it would be difficult to say about what, 
 the topics changed so rapidly; but shortly I found myself 
 acting the part of a newspaper — I had five years of news 
 to give him. Our first day was passed in eating so vora^ 
 ciously, and talking so fast, and about such manifold sub. 
 jects, that it is difficult to say which we did most. But it 
 Is certain that before retiring, he asserted his belief that I 
 had brought new life to him : he already felt stronger and 
 better. That night he read the packet of letters which I 
 had brought to him, the reading of which he had deferred 
 for that time. 
 
498 LIVINGSTONE'S STORY OP HIS TRAVELS. 
 
 • *^ Some; days after my arrival at Ujiji, I elicited from htiH 
 thefollovving- story of bis travels and sufferings and dis- 
 coveries for the past five years : 
 
 " Dr. Livingstone's expedition left Zanzibai- in March; 
 1866. On the 7th of April he left the sea coast with an 
 expedition consisting of twelve Sepoys, nine Johanna men, 
 seven liberated slaves, and two Zambesi men — in all thirty 
 iiiKU. He also had with Mm six camels, three buffaloes, two 
 mules and three donkeys. The expedition travelled up tha 
 left bank of the Rovuma River, a route teeining with difH- 
 .culties. The dense jungles which barred the way required 
 great labor with the axes before they could proceed, which 
 retarded very much the progress of the expedition. Soon 
 after leaving the coast Dr. Livingstone was made aware of 
 the unwillingness of the Seipoys and Johanna men to march 
 into the interior. Their rourmurings and complaints grew 
 louder day by day. Hojjing that he might bo induced to 
 return, the Sepoys and Johanna men so abused the animals 
 that in a short time not one was left alive. This plan not 
 succeeding, they set about poisoning the minds of the sim'> 
 pie natives tovyards the Doctor, by inculcating the most 
 mischievous and false reports concerning his character and 
 intentions. As this might possibly become dangerous, the 
 Doctor resolved to discharge the Sepoys, and accordingly 
 sent tliem back to the sea coast, with a sufficiency of cloth 
 to purdhase food on their return. The first of his troubles 
 began with these men. A more worthless crew as escort it 
 would be impossible to conceive. After suffering consider- 
 ably from hunger during tlio transit of a wide extent of 
 unoccupied country, after leaving the Rovuma River, the 
 Doctor and his party arrived in the country of a Mhiyou 
 chief on the 18th of July, 1866. Desertion of faithless 
 men in the meantime had greatly thinned his party. Early 
 in August, 1866, Dr. Livingstone and what remained of his 
 expedition arrived at Mponda's, a chief of a tribe of 
 Wfthiyou, living near the Nyassa Lake. Here Wikotani — 
 toe of the nice, honorable fellows of Mr. Horace Weller— 
 
MUSA'S BTORT of LIVINGSTONE'S DEATH. 4M 
 
 a prot<fgd of the Doctor, insisted upon his discharge, allege 
 ing as his excuse, which the Doctor found subsequently to 
 be false, that he had seen his brother. He also claimed 
 Mponda's chief wife as his sister. After delivering him- 
 pelf of many more falsehoods, Wikotani was given by the 
 Doctor in charge of Mponda until his ' big brother ' should 
 call for him. 
 
 " This ingrate, released from slavery and educated at the 
 Nassick School, Bombay, at the sole charge of the Doctor> 
 perceiving his application for a discharge to be successful, 
 endeavored to persuade Chumah, another Tpvotigi, to go 
 with him, in order, us the Doctor believes, to enslave him. 
 Upon Chumah consulting the Doctor, he was strongly ad- 
 vised not to put himself in the power of Wikotani. 
 
 " From Mponda's the Doctor proceeded to the heel of 
 the Nyassa, to a village of a Babisa chief, who required 
 medicine for a skin desease. To treat the malady he stopped 
 at this place two daj's. While stopping here a half-caste 
 Arab arrived at the same place from the western shore of 
 Lake Nyassa, who reported that he had been plundered by 
 a band of the Mazitu, at a place which the Doctor and Musa, 
 the chief of his Johanna men, knew perfectly was at leasit 
 one hundred and fifty miles north-northwest, or twenty 
 days' march from the village. This Musa is he who manu- 
 factured that wonderful tale of murder which so startled 
 all friends of the Doctor. During the Zambesi expedition 
 Musa had visited this place, in compa;ny of the Doctor. 
 To the news which the Arab imparted, Musa was an eager 
 listener, and lost no time in conveying it to the Doctor. 
 The Doctor coolly asked him if he believed it, to which 
 Musa answered that he did believe every word, for th« 
 Arab had told 'true, true.' The Doctor said he did not, 
 and after explaining to him the reasons, he suggested to 
 Musa that they should go and consult the Babisa chief, for 
 if any one should know if the story was true, he should. 
 The Babisa chief denounced the Arab as a liar when con- 
 Bulted. But Musa broke out with, 'No^ no, Doctor, I no 
 
600 ASVAMCINQ UNDER DIFPIOULTIEa 
 
 want to go to Ma Zitu ; I no want Ma Zitu to kill me ; I 
 want to see my father, my mother, my child in Johanna. 
 I no want Ma Zitu to kill me.' Musa's words are here re- 
 ported ipsissima verba. To this outburst the Doctor re- 
 plied : ' I don't want the Ma Zitu to kill me either, but 
 since you are afraid of them, I go west until we are far 
 past the beat of the Ma Zitu.' Musa was not satisfied with 
 the promise of the Doctor, for he said in the same dolorous 
 tone : ' If we had 200 guns with us I would go, but our 
 small party, they will come by night and kill us all.' The 
 Doctor repeated his promise, but to no purpose. When he 
 turned his face westward, Musa and the Johanna escort 
 heartlessly deserted him. Hence the fabrication of the 
 Livingstone murder tale to hide the fact of their desertion, 
 and to obtain their wages. Livingstone's party was very 
 small now ; he had sent back the worthless and maudlin 
 Sepoys ; the Johanna men had deserted him in a bod}"-, and 
 Wikdtani had been discharged. He was obliged to seek 
 aid from the natives. He engaged them as carriers, and 
 as they had never been tampered with or betrayed by the 
 slave-dealers he managed exceedingly well. From this 
 country, which he left in the beginning of December, 1866, 
 he entered on a northern course, where the Ma Zitu had 
 swept the land clean of provisions, and where the expedi- 
 tion suffered the most pinching hunger. Added to this 
 desertions continued, which in one or two cases caused ft 
 loss of almost all his clothes and cooking utensils and 
 dishes. Though misfortune constantly dogged the foot- 
 steps of the expedition, it struggled on and traversed the 
 countries of Babisa, Bobemba, Baniungu, Barungu, besides 
 the country of Londa, where lives the famous king 
 Cazembe. 
 
 " Cazembe and his queen received him kindly, and showed 
 everj' disposition to assist him, and it was he who gave the 
 information about Lake Bangweolo (which he called the 
 Large Water) to the Doctor. Near Cazembe's the Doctor 
 bad crossed a fine stream called the Chambezi. But ha 
 
BELTING TOO MUCH ON THE PORTUGUESE. 601 
 
 relied too much on the con-ectness of Portuguese informa- 
 tion, and paid not much attention to it at the time, believ- 
 ing it to be, as the Portuguese travellers stated, but the 
 headwaters of the great Zambesi, and having no connec- 
 tion with the great river of Egj'pt, of which he was no\r 
 in search. This excessive reliance upon the veracity of 
 Portuguese travellers and traders misled him very mnch, 
 and caused him double work, plunging him into a labyrinth 
 of errors and discoveries, making the whole country, and 
 its intricate system of rivers and lakes, clear to him only 
 after repeating his journeys many times. 
 
 "From the beginning of 1867 to the middle of March 
 1869, he says he was mostly engaged in correcting the 
 errors of Portuguese travellers. The Portuguese when 
 writing or speaking of the Chambezi invariably called it 
 '^'our own Zambesi,' or the Zambesi that flows through the 
 Portuguese possessions of the Mozambique. Over and 
 over again he had to traverse the countries around Londa 
 like an uneasy spirit ; over and over again he asked the 
 same questions from the diflferent people whom he met, 
 until he was obliged to desist, lest they might say, ' The 
 man is mad; he has water on the brain.' 
 
 " These tedious travels have established, first that the 
 Chambezi is a totally distinct river from the Portuguese 
 Zambesi ; second, that the Chambezi, starting from about 
 latitude 11° south, is none other then the headwaters of 
 the Nile itself, thus giving that wonderful river a length 
 of over 2600 miles of direct latitude. During this scries 
 of journeys which he made in these latitudes he came to a 
 lake lying north-west from Cazembe's. The natives call it 
 Liemba or Luwemba, from a country of that name which 
 bordered it on the south-east. Livingstone discovered it 
 to be an extensive heel, or rather foot of the Tanganyika. 
 By his map the southern part of the Tanganyika resembles 
 the southern part of Ttaly in configuration. The extremity 
 of the Tangan3'ika south reaches to 8° 42' south latitude, 
 thus giving the lake a length of 323 geographical miles, 
 
kQi THE LAKES AND RIVERS OF AFRICA. 
 
 or seventy-three miles longer then Captain Burton and 
 Speke described it. From the Tanganyika he crossed Ma- 
 remguo and came in sight of Lake Moero. Tracing this 
 lake, which is about sixty miles in length, to its southern 
 extremity, he found a river entering it from that direction. 
 Following the Luapula north, as this river was called, he 
 found it issued from the great lake of Bangweolo which is 
 as large in superficial area as Tanganyika. The most im- 
 portant feeder of this lake is the Chambezi. He had traced 
 the Chambezi running north through three degrees of "lati- 
 tude. It could not then be the Zambesi. He returned to 
 King Cazembe, thence to Ujiji, whence he dated those let- 
 ters to the London Geographical Society, under whose 
 auspices he travels, which though the outside world still 
 doubted that the traveller was alive, fully satisfied the 
 minds of the members of that society. The way in which 
 Musa left the Doctor, and what the Doctor was doing all 
 the time that the world thought him dead, has now been 
 told as Dr. Livingstone told your correspondent. But his 
 experiences, his troubles, his sufferings in mind, body and 
 estate, how Arabs conspired against him, his men robbed 
 him, false Moslems betrayed him, how he was detained by 
 inundations, by scanty means to cross rivers and lagoons, 
 by wars between Arabs and natives from the beginning of 
 1867 to the middle of March 1869, when he arrived at 
 Ujiji — no one will be able to better relate than himself. 
 After resting at Ujiji he thought of exploring the head of 
 the Tanganyika and ascertaining whether this lake had anj' 
 connection, or whether the river Rusizi was an influent or 
 «n affluent ; bnt the avarice of the Wajiji, which would 
 have deprived him of most of his cloth, prevented him. At 
 the end of June 1869, he set off by way of Uguhha for his 
 last series of explorations. Fifteen days' march brought 
 him to Manyema, a virgin country, but lately known to 
 the Arabs even. On the threshold of great discoveries he 
 was laid up six month from ulcers in the feet. When re- 
 •overed he set off northerly and came to a broad lacustrine 
 
IiAK£ LINCOLN. 603 
 
 river called Lualaba, which flowed northward, westward, 
 and in some places southward in a most confusing way. 
 The river was from one to three miles broad. Following it 
 northerly he discovered Lake Kamolondo in lat. 6° 30' S. 
 He traced the river southward to Lake Moero, where ha 
 saw it issue out of this lake through an enormous and deep 
 chasm in the mountains. Satisfied that this Lualaba was 
 the Chambezi which entered Bangweolo, or the Luapulu 
 which entered Moero, he retraced his steps northward to 
 Lake Kamolondo. He came to a river flowing from the 
 .west, called the Locki, or Lomami, which issued from a 
 large lake called Chebungo, situated to the soutlji-southwes); 
 ,from Kamolondo. To this Lake Chebungo Dr. Livingstone 
 gave the name Lake Lincoln, after President Lincoln, whose 
 sad fate the civilized world lamented. To the memory of 
 ■the American President, whose labors in behalf of the black 
 -race won his entire sympathy and approval, the great tra- 
 veller has contributed a monument more durable than 
 brass, iron or stone. 
 
 " Still working his way north, bit by bit, against several 
 and varied difficulties, along the Lualaba's crooked course, 
 as far as lat. 4° S., he heard of another large lake situated 
 to the north in the same -central line of drainage as the 
 four other lakes ; but here he was compelled to turn back 
 to Ujiji. Against this compulsion his iron will and indo- 
 mitable energy fought in vain ; his men had mutinied and 
 absolutely refused to budge a step, and to Ujiji he was ob- 
 liged to return, a baffled, sick, weary and destitute man. 
 It was in this state your correspondent met him only 
 eighteen days after his arrival. So far had the traveller 
 gone north that he was at the beginning of the final and 
 .certain end. Six hundred miles of watershed had been 
 examined carefully. At the beginning of the seventh hun- 
 dred the false slaves sent to him from the British Consul 
 at Zanzibar, and who were to him as escort, rose up.against 
 him, saying in their determined actions : 'Thus far you 
 shall go and not one step further.' 
 
504 THE WONDEES OP AFRICA. 
 
 " According to Livingstone two things yet remain before 
 the Nile sources can be said to be discovered. First, he 
 has heard of the existence of four fountains, two of which 
 give birth to a river flowing north, which is the Lualaba, 
 and two to a rivCr flowing south into inner Ethiopia, which 
 is the Zambesi, thus verifying the statement which the 
 Secretary of the Goddess Minerva at Sais made to Hero* 
 dotus over two thousand years ago. He lias heard of them 
 repeatedly, and has been several times within a fortnight's 
 march of them, but something always interposed to pre- 
 vent him going to see them. These fountains require to 
 be seen. Second, remains the link above described to be 
 explored. The stories which the Doctor relates of the two 
 immense countries through which the great river runs read 
 like fable. The most southerl}' is called Rua ; the northern 
 is called Manyema by the Arabs, and Manuema by the 
 natives, who are cannibals. He tells of ivory being so 
 cheap that twenty-five cents worth of copper will purchase 
 a large tusk, worth $120 at Zanzibar. He tells of ivory 
 being turned into doorposts and eave stanchions by the 
 cannibals ; of skilful manufactures of fine grass cloth, ri- 
 valling that of India ; of a people so nearly approaching 
 to whiite people and so extr6mel3' handsome that they 
 eclipse anything ever seen in Africa ; and- from this fact 
 supposes them to be descendants of the ancient Egyptians, 
 or of some of the lost tribes of Israel ; he tells of copper 
 mines at Katauga which have been worked for ages ; of 
 docile and friendly people, who up to this time have lived 
 buried in the lap of barbarism, ignorant that there lived 
 on the earth a race so cruel and callous as the Arabs who 
 have come among them, rudelj' awakening them out of 
 their sleep with the thunder of gunpowder, to kidnap, rob 
 and murder without restraint, and of many other things 
 he tells. 
 
 "The Doctor arrived at Ujiji on the 16th of October, 
 the Herald expedition on the 3rd of November, eighteen 
 days later, and as if guided by the hand of Providence not 
 
HTIN08T0NE AND STANLEY EXPIOBING TOGBTHEE. 505 
 
 a month too late, nor a month too soon. He was sick, he 
 ■was destitute, and help came in time. He had returned to 
 Ujiji only to find himself robbed of everything by the very 
 man to whom the British Consulate had entrusted his 
 goods. This man, called Shereep, had sold them off for 
 ivory, and had feasted on the little stock of luxuries sent 
 to the Doctor by his friends. 
 
 " A few days after the arrival of the Herald expedition 
 at TJjiji, I asked the Doctor if he had explored the head of 
 the Tanganyika. He said he had not ; ' he had not thought 
 it of so much importance as the central line of drainage ; 
 besides, when he had proposed to do it, before leaving for 
 Manyema, the Wajiji had shown such a dispiosition to fleece 
 him that he had desisted from the attempt.' 
 
 " Your correspondent then explained to him what great 
 importance was attached to the lake by geographers, as 
 stated in the newspapers, and suggested to him, that it 
 were better, seeing that he was about to leave TJnyanyembe, 
 and that something might occur in the meantime to hinder 
 him from ever visiting it, to take advantage of the offer I 
 made of putting myself, men and effects of the expedition 
 at his service for the purpose of exploring the northern 
 head of the Tanganyika. He at once accepted the offer, 
 and, like a hero, lost no time in starting. On the 29th of 
 November Dr. Livingstone and j'our correspondent, with 
 twenty picked men of the Herald expedition, started. De- 
 spite the assertions of the Arabs that the Warundi were 
 dangerous, and would not let us pass, we hugged their 
 coast closely, and when fatigued, boldly camped in their 
 country. Once only were we obliged to fly, and this was 
 at the dead of night, from a large party whom we knew 
 were surrounding us on the land side. We got to the boat 
 in safety, and we might have punished them severely had 
 the Doctor been so disposed. Once more we were stoned, 
 but we paid no heed to them, and kept on our way along 
 tiieir coast until we arrived at Mokamba's, one of the 
 chiefs of Usige. 
 43 
 
606 THE RUSIZI AN INFLUENT. 
 
 "Mokamba was at war with a neighboring chief, who 
 lives on the left hand of the Rusizi. That did not deter us, 
 and we crossed the head of the Tanganyilca, governed by 
 Rubinga, brother of Mokamba. On the morning of the 
 eleventh day of our departure from Ujiji, we were rowed 
 towards the river. We came to a long narrow bay, fringed 
 on all sides with tall, dense reeds, and swarming with 
 crocodiles, and soon came to the mouth of the Rusizi. As 
 soon as we had entered the river, all doubt vanished before 
 the strons: turbid flood against which we had to contend in 
 the ascent. After about ten minutes we entered what 
 seemed to be a lagoon, but which was the result of a recent 
 inundation. About an hour higher up the river began to 
 be confined to its proper banks, and is about thirty yards 
 broad, but very shallow. Two days higher up, Rubinga 
 told us that the Rusizi was joined by the Loanda, coming 
 from the northwest. There could be no mistake then. Dr. 
 Livingstone and myself had ascended it, had felt the force 
 of the strong inflowing current ; the Rusizi was an influent, 
 so much so as the Malagarazi, the Linche, and Rugufu ; 
 but with its banks full it can only be considered as rank- 
 ing third among the rivers flowing into the Tanganyika. 
 Though rapid, it is extremely shallow ; it has three mouths, 
 up which an ordinary ship's boat loaded might in vain 
 attempt to ascend. Burton and Speke, though they 
 ascended to within six hours' journey bj' canoe from the 
 Rusizi, were compelled to turn back by the cowardice of 
 the boatmen. Had thej- ascended to Menta's capital, they 
 could have easily seen the head of the lake. TJsige is but 
 B, district of Wumdi, governed by several small chiefs, who 
 owe obedience to Mwezi, the great King of Wumdi. We 
 spent nine days at the head of the Tanganyika, exploring 
 the islands and many bays that indent its shores. In re- 
 turning to TJjiji, we coasted along the west side of the 
 Tanganyika as far as the country of the Wasansi, wliom 
 we liad to leave on no amicable terms, owing to their hos- 
 tility to Arabs, and arrived at Ujiji on thelgth of Decem- 
 lior, having been absent twent^'-eight days. 
 
ANOTHER TRIP IN COMPANY. 50t 
 
 "Though the Rusizi River can no longer be a subject of 
 tnriosity to geographers — and we are certain that there it 
 fto connection between the Tanganyika and Baker's Lake, 
 T)r the Albert Nyanza — it is not yet certain that there is no 
 Connection between the Tanganyika and the Nile River. 
 The western coast has not all been explored, and there is 
 reason to suppose that a river runs out of the Tanganyika 
 through the deep caverns of Kabogo Mountain/far under 
 ground and out on the western side of Kabogo, into the 
 Lualaba, or the Nile. Livingstone has seen the river about 
 forty miles or so west of Kabogo (about forty yards broad 
 at that place), but he does not know that it runs out of tho 
 mountain. 
 
 " This ia one of the many things which he has yet to 
 examine. 
 
 "After spending Christmas at Ujiji, Dr. Livingstone, 
 escorted by the New York Herald expedition, composed of 
 forty Wanguana soldiers, well armed, left for Unyanyemba 
 on the 26th of December, 18T1. In order to arrive safely, 
 untroubled by wars and avaricious tribes, we sketched out 
 a road to Unyanyembe, thus : 
 
 " Seven days by water south to iTrimba. 
 
 " Ten days across the uninhabited forests of Kawendi. 
 
 "Twenty. days through Unkonongo, direct east. 
 
 " Twelve days north, through Unkonongo. 
 
 " Thence five days into Unyanyembe, where we arrived 
 without adventure of any kind, except killing zebras, buf- 
 faloes, and giraffes, after fifty-four days' travel. The expe- 
 dition suffered considerably from famine, and your corres- 
 pondent from fever, but these are incidental to the march 
 in this country. The Doctor tramped it on foot like a man 
 of iron. On arrival at Unyanyembe, I found that the 
 Englishman Shaw, whom I had turned back as useless, had, 
 about a mouth after his return, succumbed to the climat* 
 of the interior, and had .died, as' well as two Wanguana of 
 the expedition, who had been left behind sick. Thus, 
 during less than twelve months, William Lawrence Far- 
 
508 THE SUPPLIES SENT LIVINGSTONE. 
 
 quar, of Leith, Scotland, and John William Shaw, of Lon- 
 don, England, the two white men I had engaged to assist 
 me, had died ; also, eight baggage-carriers and eight sol- 
 diers of the expedition had died. I was bold enough to 
 advise the Doctor to permit the expedition to escort him to 
 Unyanyembe, through the country it was made acquainted 
 with while going to Ujiji, for the reason that were he to sit 
 down at Ujiji until Mirambo was disposed of, he might re- 
 main a j;ear there, a prey to high expectations, ending 
 always in bitter disappointment. I told him, as the Arabs 
 of Unyanyembe were not equal to the task of conquering 
 Mirambo, that it were better he should accompany the 
 Herald, expedition to Unyanyembe, and there take posses- 
 sion of the last lot of goods brought to him by a caravan 
 which left the sea-coast simultaneously with our expedition. 
 The Doctor consented, and thus it was that he came so far 
 back as Unyanyembe. 
 
 " It is erroneously supposed by his friends that Dr. Liv- 
 ingstone is most industriously attended to ; that he receives 
 annually, if not semi-annually, large supplies of cloth, 
 beads, and necessaries. Tour correspodent begs to inform 
 his friends that the Herald correspondent found him turned 
 back from his explorations when on the eve of being termi' 
 nated thoroughly, by the vei-y men sent to him by the 
 British Consulate ; that the expedition found him sitting 
 down at Ujiji, utterly destitute, robbed by the very men 
 sent by the British Consulate at Zanzibar with bis caravan ; 
 that the Herald expedition escorted him to Unyanyembe 
 only in time to save his last stock of goods, for they were 
 rapidly being made away with by the very men entrusted 
 by the British Consulate with the last lot of goods ; that 
 it was only by an accident that your correspondent saw a 
 packet of letters addressed to Livingstone, and so forcibly 
 took one of Livingstone's men to carry the letters to his 
 employer. 
 
 " When we arrived at Unyanyembe, two bales of cloth, 
 two bags of beads, and one case of brandy had already 
 
BETDRN OF THE HESALD EXPEDITIOV 609 
 
 llsappeared out of the last lot. Neither are the supplies 
 or letters hurried up to time. He might have waited long 
 at XJjiji, waiting for goods and letters that never would 
 come, if the Herald expedition had not informed him. 
 Though the distance from Zanzibar to Unyanyembe is but 
 three months for a loaded caravan, yet the Consulate's 
 trusty men stopped on the sea-coast, within a stone's throw 
 (figuratively speaking) of the Consulate, over three months 
 and a half, and Livingstone got his goods thirteen and a 
 half months after they left the sea-coast, and only at three 
 months from the coast. Livingstone had to come for them 
 himself, a distance of 350 miles. Within the time that the 
 British Consul's men took to convey Livingstone's goods 
 and letters a distance of 525 miles, the Herald's expedition 
 was formed and marched 2059 English statute miles, and 
 before the fourteeth month of its departure from the sea- 
 coast, the Herald expedition will have arrived at the sea- 
 ooast, be paid off, and disbanded. 
 
 !^" In the matter of supplies, then, being sent to Living- 
 stone semi-annually, or annually, there is no truth what- 
 ever. The cause is extreme apathy at Zanzibar, and the 
 reckless character of the men sent. Where English gen- 
 tlemen are so liberal and money so plentiful, it should be 
 otherwise. When preparing to return to the coast, your 
 correspondent in command of your expedition, turned over 
 to Dr. Livingstone nine bales of mixed cloth, 980 pounds 
 of assorted beads, well adapted for Rua and Manyema, and 
 350 pounds of brass wire, besides one portable boat to cross 
 rivers, a supply of carpenter's tools, revolvers, carbines, 
 and several hundred pounds of ammunition. 
 
 " TJNYAMWEZr, KWIHARA, TTnYANTEMBB, 
 
 "March 12, 1812. 
 "The day after to-morrow the Herald expedition will 
 leave the Land of the Moon, Unyamwezi, for the sea-coast. 
 Your correspondent has been commissioned by Bi: Living- 
 stone, if there is time before the first ship leaves Zanzibar, 
 43* 
 
^10 LIVINGSTONE'S HEALTH AND SPIEWS. 
 
 to send him fifty well-arraed men from Zanzibar, to act as 
 Boldiers and servants for a new expedition, whicli he is 
 about' to organize for a rapid exploration of a few doubtful 
 points before returning home to declare to those concerned 
 that he has finished his work. He will leave TJnyanyembe 
 for Ufipa, thence to Liemba and Marumgu, and crossing 
 the Luapula River at Cliicumbi's, will make his way to the 
 copper mines of Katauga, in Rua ; then eight days south 
 to discover the Fountains of Herodotus ; then return by 
 Katauga to the underground houses of Rua, ten days 
 northeast of Katauga ; thence to Lake Karaolondo, and by 
 River Lufira to Lake Lincoln ; thence back to Lualaba, to 
 explore the lake north of Kamolondo ; thence return by 
 Uguhha to TJjiji, or by Marumgu, through TJwri to the 
 coast and England. This is his present programme, which 
 he thinks will take him eighteen months ; but, as I told 
 him, I think it will take two years. Though he is now 
 going on sixty j^ears of age, he looks but forty-five or fifty 
 — quite hale and hearty. He has an enormous appetite, 
 which has abated none of its powers since I have known 
 him. He is in need of no rest — he needed supplies — he 
 has got them now, and everything he needs. Though sick 
 and thin when I saw him at TJjiji, he is now fleshy and 
 etoutisb, and must weigh about one hundred and eighty 
 pounds. Though I have hung my balance scales tempt- 
 ingly before his eyes, I have never been able to get him to 
 weigh himself. I have not the slightest fears about his 
 iMalth, or of any danger coming to him from the natives." 
 
■^pv^"v 
 
 H. M. STANLEY, BOY, AND GUEDE. 
 
LIVINGSTONE'S LETTER TO THE HERALD. 513 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S LETTER TO THE NEW YORK HERALD. 
 
 Stanley arrived at Marseilles July 24th, 1872. His 
 ■.ppearance was thus described by a correspondent : " He 
 is an American citizen. In consequence of his exposure 
 and fatigue, he was not in robust health. He stands about 
 five feet seven Inches, broad chest and powerful-looking 
 frame. His hair, naturally curling, and originally light, 
 has turned quite gray." In conversation, he said of his 
 first meeting with Livingstone, at Ujiji, on the 10th of 
 November, 1871, that it was formal before the Arabs ; "but 
 the Arabs knew that we must have something very impor- 
 tant to communicate to each other, and although their prin- 
 cipal men wanted to put a multitude of questions to me, 
 they voluntarily withdrew in order to give us the oppor- 
 tunity of conversing freely. When we were alone we gave 
 unrestrained play to our feelings." Livingstone, he speaks 
 of as one of the bravest and noblest gentlemen, and truest 
 Christians living. " I handed him," he said, " a packet of let- 
 ters from home, and said that, after he had finished reading 
 them, he should next be told all the news from the civilized 
 world, so far as I knew them myself. ' No 1 no ! ' he re- 
 plied, ' for three years I have been waiting for letters from 
 home, and I can afford to wait a few hours longer ; give me 
 the news of the world.' One of the very first questions 
 he put to me was concerning the welfare of ' his dear old 
 friend. Sir Roderick Murchison.' " Stanley replied he had 
 left him well. In fact, however, he had died about three 
 weeks before their meeting. 
 
 "After I liad told Livingstone," continues Stanley, 
 "everything, he narrated to me, in return, all -that had 
 happened to himself! This account was supplemented 
 and completed during the four months they remained to- 
 
6'14 LIVINGSTONE'S COLLECTED COURAGE. 
 
 gather, from the 10th of November, 1811, to the 14th of 
 March, 1812. Stanley afflrms that Livingstone positively 
 does not know what fear is. At Lake Tanganj'ika, 
 ■when the partj- was in fear of an instant attack, Living- 
 stone's conduct made this evident. The party was en- 
 gaged in eating their supper, when Stanley called Living- 
 stone's attention to the fact that they were being sur- 
 rounded. "Are you sure of that?" asked the Doctor. 
 " Yes ! " said Stanley, " some are behind you at this mo- 
 ment." Livingstone turned and saw them, and ordered 
 one of his liien to hail them. As soon as the Marundi saw 
 that their presence was known, they advanced and de- 
 manded of the party who they were. The travellers 
 answered they were white men, and asked what they 
 wanted. The natives replied that they would come back 
 in the evening to see the white men. Having then gone, 
 the travellers, on consultation, thought it best to retire 
 ^immediately. Getting therefore in their boats they pushed 
 off, when the tribe suddenly appeared in force, attacking 
 them by throwing spears and stones at them. Stanley 
 cocked his gun and said, " Doctor, give me permission to 
 punish these fellows." "No! no!" replied Livingstone, 
 ** we have got out of danger ;, it is not necessary to shed 
 blood now." He gives also another incident. The party 
 was in the cannibal country of TJsamsi, on the western 
 coast of Lake Tanganj'ika. Dr. Livingstone had gone out 
 to take observations, while Stanley had retired to sleep. 
 Suddenly a boy rushed into the tent, exclaiming : " Master, 
 Master, get j'our gun ; men want to fight ! " "I found this 
 true," says Stanley. " There were scores of excited native 
 fellows shouting out that they were going to kill us ; so I' 
 aent four or five of our men to the Doctor, warning him of 
 the danger, and desiring him to hurry back to the camp. 
 By and by the Doctor returned, and in his usual calm and . 
 deliberate manner, presented himself to the chief man of 
 the natives who had made the hostile demonstrations, and 
 without any appearance whatever of alarm, or of anger. 
 
LIVINGSTONE'S LETTEE TELKGEAPHED. 515 
 
 coolly demanded what was the matter. From the reply to 
 this question, it came out that the son of the chief man had 
 been murdered by the Arabs of Ujiji, and that they had 
 come to wreak upon us their revenge for his death. Cour- 
 teous and calm, almost beyond anything I can convey to 
 you in words, the Doctor met their declaration with the 
 answer that altliough all that was alleged by the friends of 
 the deceased miglit be true, we had nothing in the world to 
 do with the business ; we were white men, and not Arabs ; 
 and in proof he bared his arm and showed it to them. 
 They were not, however, satisfied even by tbis, which should 
 have been tolerably conclusive evidence, and we had, in the 
 long run, to bribe them in order to get rid of them. They 
 left us ; but fearing lest they might return in greater force, 
 we sailed into safer quarters, across the lake, a distance 
 of thirty-five miles." 
 
 Hastening on to London, Stanley telegraphed to the 
 New York Herald the following letter from Livingstone. 
 Perhaps no single instance of the differences between bar- 
 barism and civilization could be found more striking than 
 the fact that this letter, which had been so long on its jour- 
 ney from Africa, was almost instantaneously transmitted 
 the rest of its way to its destination. The cost of its 
 telegraphic transmission was some thousands of dollars : 
 
 Livingsfone^s letter to the Berald, telegraphed from London, 
 July 26th, 1812. 
 
 James Goedon Bennett, Je., Esq. 
 
 My Dear Sir : — I wish to say a little about the slave-trade 
 in Eastern Africa. It is not a very inviting subject, and 
 to some I may appear very much akin to the old lady who 
 relished her paper for neither births, deaths, nor marriages, 
 but for good racy, bloody murders. I am, however, far 
 from fond of the horrible. I often wish I could forget, 
 scenes I have seen, and will certainlj' never try to inflict on 
 others the sorrow which being witness of man's inhumanity 
 
516 mvingstone's last journey. 
 
 to man has often entailed on myself. Some of your readers 
 know that about five years ago I undertook, at the instiga- 
 tion of my very dear old friend, Sir Roderick Murchison, 
 the task of examining the watershed of South Central 
 Africa. The work had a charm for my mind, because the 
 dividing line between the North and South was unknown, 
 and a fit object for exploration. Having other work on 
 hand I at first recommended another for the task, but on 
 his declining to go without a handsome salary and some, 
 thing to fall back upon afterwards, I agreed to go myself, 
 and was encouraged by Sir Roderick Murchison, saying in 
 a warm jovial manner : " You will be the real discoverer 
 Of the sources of the Nile." I thought that two years 
 would be suflflcient to go from the coast inland across the 
 head of Lake Nyassa to the watershed, wherever that 
 might be, and after examination try to begin a benevolent 
 mission with some tribe on the slope back from the coast. 
 Had I known all the time, toil, hunger, hardship, and weary 
 hours involved in that precious water parting, I might have 
 preferred having my head shaved and a blister put on it to 
 grappling with mj"^ good old friend's task ; but having taken 
 up the burden I could not bear to be beaten by it. I shall 
 tell you a little about the progress made by and by. 
 
 At present let me give a glimpse of the slave-trade, to 
 which the search and discovery of most of the Nile foun- 
 tains have brought me face to face. The whole traffic, 
 whether by land or ocean, is a gross outrage on the common 
 law of mankind. It is carried on from age to age, and in 
 addition to the untold evils it inflicts, presents almost in- 
 surmountable obstacles to intercourse between different 
 portions of the human family. This open sore in the world 
 is partly owing to human cupiditj^ partly to the ignorance 
 of the more civilized of mankind of the blight which lights 
 chiefly on more degraded piracy on the high seas. It was 
 once as common as slave-trading now is, but as it became 
 thoroughly known the whole civilized world rose against it. 
 
 In now trying to make Eastern African slave-trade better 
 
THE INTERNAL SLAVE TRADE. 517 
 
 known to Americans, I indulge the hope I am aiding on, 
 though in a small degree, the good time coming yet, when 
 slavery as well as piracy will be chased from the world. 
 Many have but a faint idea of the evils that trading in 
 slaves inflicts on the victims and authors of its atrocities. 
 Most people imagine that negroes, after being brutalized 
 by a long course of servitude, with but few of the am&. 
 liorating influences that elevate the more favored races, 
 are fair average specimens of the African man. Our ideas 
 are. derived from slaves of the West coast, who have for 
 ages been subject to domestic bondage and all the depres- 
 sing agencies of a most unhealthy climate. These have 
 told most injuriously on their physical frames, while fraud 
 and the rum trade have ruined their moral natures so as 
 not to discriminate the difi'erence of the monstrous injustice. 
 The main body of the population is living free in the in- 
 terior, under their own chiefs and laws, cultivating their 
 own farms, catching fish in their own rivers, or fighting 
 bravely with the grand old denizens of the forests, which 
 in more recent continents can only be reached in rocky 
 strata or under perennial ice. Winwood Reade hit the 
 truth when he said the ancient Egyptian, with his large, 
 round, black eyes, full, luscious lips, and somewhat de- 
 pressed nose, is far nearer the typical negrO than the west 
 coast African, who has been debased by the unhealthy land 
 he lives in. The slaves generally, and especially those on 
 the west cost at Zanzibar and elsewhere, are extremely 
 ugly. I have no prejudice against their color; indeed any 
 one who lives long among them forgets they are black, and 
 feels that they are just fellow men ; but the low, retreating 
 forehead, prognathous jaws, lark heels and other physical 
 peculiarities common among slaves and west African ne- 
 groes, alwaj's awaken some feelings of aversion akin to 
 those with which we view specimens of the Bill Sykes and 
 "Bruiser " class in England. I would not utter a syllable 
 calculated to press down either class more deeply in the 
 «ire in which it is already sunk, but I wish to point out 
 44 
 
518 AN APRICAN NAPOLEON. 
 
 that these are not typical Africans any more than typical 
 Englishmen, and that the natives in nearly all the high 
 lands of the interior continent are, as a rule, fine average 
 specimens of humanity. I happened to be present when 
 all the headmen of the great chief Msama — who lives west 
 of the south end of Tanganyika — had come together to 
 make peace with certain Arabs who had burned their chief 
 town, and I am certain one could not see more finely formed, 
 intellectual heads in any assembly in London or Paris, and 
 the faces and forms corresponded finely with the shajped 
 heads. Msama himself had been a sort of Napoleon for 
 fighting and conquering in his younger days. He was 
 exactly like the ancient Assyrians sculptured on the Ni- 
 neveh marbles, as Nimrod and others, and he showed him- 
 self to be one of ourselves by habitually indulging in co- 
 pious potations of beer, called pombe, and had become 
 what Nathaniel Hawthorne called " Bulbous below the ribs." 
 I do not know where the term "bloated aristocracy" arose. 
 It must be American, for I have had glimpses of a good 
 many English noblemen, and Msama was the only speci- 
 men of a "bloated aristocrat" on whom I ever set eyes. 
 Many of the women are very pretty, and, like all ladies, 
 would have been much prettier if they had only let them- 
 selves alone. .Fortunately the dears could not change 
 charming black eyes, beautiful foreheads, nicely rounded 
 limbs, well shaped forms and small hands and feet, but 
 they must adorn themselves, and this thej"- do — " oh the 
 hussies " — by filing splendid teeth to points like cat's teeth. 
 It was distressing, for it made their smile — which has so 
 ffiuclT power over us he donkeys — ^like that of crocodile 
 ornaments, scarce. What would our ladies do if they had 
 none, but pout and lecture us on woman's rights. But 
 these specimens of the fair sex make shift by adorning fine 
 warm brown skins, tattooing various pretty devices without 
 colors, that, besides purposes of beauty, serve the heralding 
 uses of our Highland tartans. They are not black, but 
 of light, warm brown color, and so very sisterish, if I may 
 
AN AFEICAN BEAUTY. 519 
 
 nse the word, like on new coinage, it feels an injury, done 
 one's self to see a bit of grass stuck through the cartilage 
 of the nose so as to bulge out the alx nasi, or wing of the 
 nose of the anatomist. 
 
 Cazembe's Queen, Moazia Nyombe by name, would be 
 esteemed a real beauty in London, Paris, or New York, 
 and yet she had a small hole through the cartilage, near 
 the tip of her fine slightly aquiline nose. »But she had 
 only filed one side of two of the front of her superb snow- 
 white teeth, and then what a laugh she had ! Let those who 
 wish to know go see her. She was carried to her farm in 
 a pony phaeton, which is a sort of throne, fastened in two 
 very long poles and carried by twelve stalwart citizens. 
 If they take the Punch motto of Cazembe, " Niggars don't 
 require to be shot here," as their own, they may show 
 themselves to be men ; but whether they do or not, Cazembe 
 will show himself a man of sterling good sense. 
 
 Kow, these people, so like ourselves internally, have 
 brave, genuine human souls. Rua, large sections of country 
 northwest of Cazembe, but still in same inland region, is 
 peopled with men very like those of Wsama and Cazembe. 
 An Arab, Syed Ben Habib, was sent to trade in Rua two 
 years ago, and, as Arabs usually do where natives have no 
 guns, Syed Ben Habib's elder brother carried matters with 
 a high hand. The Rua men observed the elder brother 
 slept in a white tent, and pitching spears into it by night 
 killed him. As Moslems never forgive blood, the younger 
 brother forthwith " ran a muck" on all indiscriminately in 
 a, large district. Let it not be supposed any of these people 
 are, like American Indians, insatiable, blood-thirsty sav- 
 ages, who will not be reclaimed or entertain terms of lasting 
 friendship with fair-dealing strangers. Had the actual 
 murderers been demanded, and a little time granted, I feel 
 morally certain, from many other instances among tribes 
 who, like the Ba Rua, have not been spoiled by Arab tra- 
 ders, they would all have been given up. The chiefs of 
 the country would, first of all, have specified the crime of 
 
520 GOOD SENSE OP AFRICANS. 
 
 which the elder brother was guilty and who had been led 
 to avenge it. It is very likelj-^ they would have stipulated 
 no other should be punished but the actual perpetrator, the 
 domestic slave acting under his orders being considered 
 free of blame. I know nothing distinguishes the uncon- 
 taminated African from other degraded peoples more than 
 their entire reasonableness and good sense. It is different 
 after they ha'Vio had wives, children and relatives kidnapped, 
 but that is more than human nature, civilized or savage, 
 can bear. In the case in question, indiscriminate slaughter, 
 capture and plunder took place. A very large number of 
 very fine young men were captured and secured in chains 
 and wooden yokes. 
 
 I came near to the party of Syed Ben Habib, close to a 
 point where a huge rent in the mountain of Rua allows the 
 escape of the great river Lualaba out of Lake Moero, and 
 here I had for the first time an opportunity of observing 
 the difference between slaves and freemen made captives. 
 When fairly across the Lualaba, Syed Ben Habib thought 
 his captives safe, and got rid of the trouble of attending 
 to and watching the chained gangs by taking off both 
 chains and yokes. All declared joy and a perfect willing- 
 ness to follow Syed to the end of the world or elsewhere, 
 but next morning twenty-two made clear of two mountains. 
 Many more, seeing the broad Lualaba roll between them 
 and the homes of their infancy, lost all heart, and in three 
 days eight of them died. They had no complaint but pain 
 in the heart, and they all pointed out its seat correctly, 
 though many believe the heart situated underneath the top 
 of the sternum, or breast bone. This to me was the most 
 startling death 1 ever saw. They evidentlj' die of broken- 
 heartedness, and the Arabs wondered, seeing they had 
 plenty to eat. I saw others perish, particularly a very fine 
 boy, ten or twelve years of age. When asked where he 
 felt ill, he put his hand correctly and exactly over the 
 heart. He was kindly carried, and as he breathed out his 
 »oul, was laid gently on the side of the path. The captorB 
 
SLAVE YOKES. 521 
 
 are not unusually cruel. They were callous. Slaving 
 hardened their hearts. 
 
 When Syed, an old friend of mine, crossed Lualaba, he 
 heard I was in the village, where a company of slave- 
 traders were furiously assaulted for three days by justly 
 incensed Bobemba. I would not fight, nor allow my people 
 to fire if I saw them, because Bobemb^ had been especially 
 kind to me. Syed sent a party of his own people to invite 
 me to leave the village and come to him. He showed him- 
 self the opposite of hard-hearted ; but slavery hardens 
 within, petrifies the feelings, is bad for the victims and ill 
 for the victimizers. Once, it is said, a party of twelve, 
 who had been slaves in their own country — Cunda or Conda, 
 of which Cazembe is chief or general — were loaded with 
 large, heavy yokes, which were forked trees, about three 
 inches in diameter and seven or eight feet long, the neck 
 inserted in the fork, and an iron bar driven across one end 
 of the fork to the other and riveted to the other end, tied 
 at night to the tree of ceiling of the hut, and the neck be- 
 ing firm in the fork, and the slave held off from enloosing 
 it, was excessively troublesome to the wearer, and when 
 marching, two yokes were tied together by tree ends, and 
 loads put on the slaves' heads besides. A woman, having 
 an additional j'oke and load, and a child on her back, said 
 to me in passing, " They are killing me. If they would take 
 off the yoke I could manage the load and the child ; but I 
 shall die with three loads." The one who spoke this did 
 die ; poor little girl 1 Her child perished of starvation. I 
 interceded some, but when unyoked, off they bounded into 
 the long grass, and I was greatly blamed for not caring in 
 presence of the owners of the propei-ty. After a day's 
 march, under a broiling vertical sun, with yokes and heavy 
 loads, the strongest were exhausted. The party of twelve 
 above mentioned, were sitting down singing and laughing. 
 " Hallo," said I, " these fellows take to it kindly. This must 
 be the class for whom philosophers say slaA'ery is the na- 
 t>jr*l state," and I went and asked them the cause of their 
 44* 
 
522 A NATION 01' CANNIBALS. 
 
 mirth. I had aslied aid of their owner as to the meaning 
 of the word "Kukha," which usually means fly or leap. 
 They were using it to express the idea of haunting, as a 
 gliost, inflicting disease or death, and the song was, " Yes, 
 me going away to Manga, abroad, on white man's land, with 
 yoke on our necks ; but we shall have no yokes in death, 
 and shall return and haunt and kill j-ou." Chorus then 
 struck in, which was the name of the man who had sold 
 each of them, and then followed the general laugh, in which 
 at first I saw no bitterness. Tarembee, an old man, at 
 least one hundred and four years old, being one of the 
 sellers, in accordance with African belief, they had no 
 doubt of being soon able, by ghost power, to kill even him. 
 Their refrain was as if: "Oh, oh, oh ! bird of freedom, you 
 sold me I Oh, oh, oh ! I shall haunt" you. Oh, oh, oh 1 " 
 Laughter told not of mirth, but of tears, such as were op- 
 pressed, and they had no comforter. He that is higher 
 than the highest regardeth. 
 
 About northeast of Rua we have a very large country 
 called Manyucma, but by Arabs shortened in Manyema. 
 It is but recently known. The reputation which the Man- 
 yemas enjoyed of being cannibals prevented half-caste 
 Ariabs from venturing among them. The circumstantial 
 details of practices as man-eaters were confirmed by two 
 Arabs who, two years ago, went as far as Bambarre and 
 secured the protection and friendship of the Moerekues, 
 Lord of Light Gray Parrot with Scarlet Tail, who was a 
 very superior man. The minute details of cannibal orgies 
 given by the Arabs' attendants erred by the sheer excess 
 of the shocking details. Had I believed a tenth part of 
 what I was told I might never have ventured an inch in 
 Manyema ; but fortunately my mother never frightened me 
 in infancy with " bogie " and stuff of that sort, and I am not 
 liable to fits of bogiephobia, in which disease the poor pa- 
 tient believes everything awful, if only it is attributed to 
 the owner of a black skin. I have heard that the complaint 
 was epidemic lately in Jamaica, and the planters' mothera 
 
THE LAKES OP CENTBAL AFEICA. 523 
 
 have much to answer for. I hope that the disease may 
 never spread in the United States. The people there are 
 believed to be inoculated with common sense. 
 
 But why go among cannibals at all? Was it not like 
 joining the Alpine Club in order to be lauded, if you don't 
 break your neck, where your neck ought to be broken f 
 This makes me turn back to the watershed, as I promised. 
 It is a belt of tree-covered upland, some seven hundred 
 miles in length from west to east. The general altitude is 
 between four thousand and five thousand feet above the sea, 
 and mountains stand on it at various points, which are be- 
 tween six thousand and seven thousand feet above the 
 ocean level. On this watershed springs rise, which are 
 well nigh innumerable ; that is, it would take half a man's 
 life to count them. These springs join each other and form 
 brooks, which again converge and become rivers, or say 
 streams, of twenty, forty, or eightj^ yards, that never dry. 
 All flow towards the centre of an immense valley, which I 
 believe to be the Valley of the Nile. In this trough we 
 have at first three large rivers ; then all unite into one 
 enormous lacustrine river, the central line of drainage, 
 which I name Webb's Lualaba. In this great valley there 
 are five great lakes. One near the upper end is called Lake 
 Bunba, or more properly Bangweolo, but it is not a source 
 of the Nile, for no large river begins in a lake. It is sup- 
 plied by a river called Chambezi, and several others which 
 may be considered sources, and out of it flows the larger 
 river Luapula, which enters Lake Moero, and comes out as 
 the great lake river Lualaba, to form Lake Komolondo. 
 West of Komolondo, but still in the great valley, lies 
 Lake Lincoln, which I name as my tribute of love to the 
 great and good man America enjoyed for some time and 
 then lost. One of the three great rivers I mentioned, 
 Bartle Frere's, or Lufira, falls into Komolondo, and Lake 
 Lincoln becomes a lacustrine river, and it too joins the 
 central line of drainage, but lower down ; and all these 
 united form the fifth lake, which the slaves, sent to me in- 
 
524 THE SOURCES OF THE NILE. 
 
 stead of men, forced me, to my great grief, to leave as the 
 Unknown Lake. By my reckoning, the chronometers being 
 all dead, it is five degrees of longitude west of Speke's 
 position at TJjiji. This makes it probable that the great 
 lacustrine river in the valley is the western btanch of 
 Petherick's Nile, the Baker Ghazal, and not the eastern 
 branch which Speke, Grant, and Baker believed to be the 
 river of Egypt. If correct, this would make it the Nile, 
 only, after all, the Baker Ghazal enters the eastern arm. 
 But though I found a watershed between ten degrees and 
 twelve degrees south — that is a long way further up the 
 valley than any one had dreamed — and saw the streams of 
 some six hundred miles of it conveying into the centre of 
 the great valley, no one knew where it went after that de- 
 parture of Lake Moero. Some conjectured that it went 
 into Tanganyika ; but I saw that to do so, it must run up 
 hill. Others imagined that it might flow into the Atlantic. 
 It was to find out where it did actually go that took me 
 into Manyema. I could get no information from traders 
 outside, and no light could be obtained from the Manyema 
 within. They never travel, and it was so of old. They 
 consist of petty headmanships, and each hugs his grievance 
 from some old feud, and is worse than our old Highland 
 ancestors. Every head man of a hamlet would like to see 
 every other ruling blockhead slain ; but all were kind to 
 strangers, and though terrible fellows among themselves, 
 with their large spears and huge wooden shields, they were 
 never known to injure foreigners till slavers tried the effects 
 of gunshots upon them, and captured their women and 
 children. As I could get no geographical information 
 from them, I had to feel my way and grope in the intermi- 
 nable forests and prairies, and three times took the wrong 
 direction, going northerly, not knowing that the great river 
 makes immense sweeps to the west and southwest. I felt 
 as if I were running my bead against a stone wall. It 
 might, after all, turn out to be the Congo, and who would 
 risk being eaten and converted into black man fur it ? I 
 
THE FOUNTAINS OF HERODOTUS. 525 
 
 had various doubts, but I stuck to it like a Briton, and at 
 last found that the mighty river left its washing and flowed 
 right away to the north, the two great western arms, the 
 Lufira and Lomaine, running northeast before joining the 
 central line or main. Webb's Lualaba told that the 
 western side of the great valley was high like the eastern, 
 and as this main is reported to go into large reedy lakes, 
 it can scarcely be aught else than the western arm of the 
 Nile. But beside all this, in which it is quite possible that 
 I may be mistaken, we have two fountains on, probably, the 
 seventh hundred miles of the watershed, and giving rise to 
 the two rivers, the Loambai on the Upper Zambesi, and the 
 Kafue, which flow into inner Ethiopia ; and two fountains 
 are reported to rise in the same quarter, and, forming 
 Lufira and Lomaine, flow, as we have seen, to the north. 
 These from full grown, gushing fountains, rising so near 
 each other, and giving origin to four large rivers, answer 
 in a certain degree to the description given of the un- 
 fathomable fountains of the Nile by the Secretary of 
 Minerva, in the city of Sais, in Egypt, to the father' of all 
 travellers, Herodotus ; but I have to confess that it is a 
 little presumptuous for me to put this forward in Central 
 Africa, and without a single book of reference, on the dim 
 recollection of reading the ancient historian in boyhood. 
 The waters were said to well up from an unfathomable 
 depth, and then part — half going north, to Egypt, and 
 half south, to inner Ethiopia. Now I have heard of the 
 fountains aforementioned so often, that I cannot doubt 
 their existence, and I wish to clear up the point in my con- 
 eluding trip. 
 
 I am not to be considered as speaking without hesitation, 
 but prepared, if I see reason, to confess myself wrong. 
 No one would like to be considered a disciple of the testy 
 old would-be geographer who wrote Inner Africa Laid 
 Open, and swore to his fancies until he became blue in the 
 face. The work would have been all finished long ago, had 
 the matter of supplies of men and goods not been en- 
 
526 THE BANIANS, SLAVE TRADERS. 
 
 trusted, by mistake, to Banians and their slaves, whose^ 
 efforts were all faithfully directed towards securing my 
 failure. These Banians are protected by English subjects, 
 and by their money, their muskets, and their ammunition, 
 the Bast African Moslem slave trade is mainly carried on. 
 The cunning East Indians secure most of the profit of the 
 slave trade, and adroitly let the odium rest on their Arab 
 agents. The Banians will not harm a flea or a musquito, 
 but my progress in geography has led me to the discovery 
 that they are by far the worst cannibals in all Africa. 
 They compass, by means of Arab agents, the destruction 
 of more human lives for gain in one year than the Man- 
 yemas do for their flesh pots in ten. The matter of sup- 
 plies and men was unwittingly committed to these, our 
 Indian fellow-subjects, who had to see me in their slave 
 markets, and dread my disclosures on the infamous part 
 they play. The slaves were all imbued with the idea that 
 they were not to follow, but force me back ; and after riot- 
 ing on my goods for sixteen months on the way, instead of 
 three months, the whole stock of goods was sold off for 
 slaves and ivory. Some of the slaves who came to Man- 
 yema so baffled and worried me that I had to return 500 or 
 600 miles. The only help I have received, except half a 
 supply which I despatched from Zanzibar, in 1866, has been 
 from Mr. Stanley, your correspondent, and certain remains 
 of stores which I seized from the slaves sent from Zanzibar, 
 seventeen months ago, and I had to come back 300 miles to 
 effect the seizure. I wait here at TJnyanyembe only till 
 Mr. Stanley can send me fifty free men* from the coast, and 
 then I proceed to finish up the geographical part of my 
 mission. 
 
 I come back to the slavery question, and if I am per- 
 mitted in any way to promote its suppression, I shall not 
 grudge the toil and time I have spent. It would be better 
 to lessen human woe than discover the sources of the Nile. 
 When parties leave Ujiji to go westward into Manyema, 
 the question asked is not what goods they take, but how 
 
CHEAP IVORY. 52 
 
 many guns and kegs of powder? If they have 200 or 300 
 muskets, and ammunition in proportion, they think success 
 Is certain. No trader having ever before entered Manyema, 
 the value of ivory was quite unknown ; indeed, the tusks 
 were left in the forest with the other bones, where the ani- 
 mals had been slain. Many were rotten ; others, gnawed 
 by a rodent animal to sharpen its teeth, as London rats do 
 on leaden pipes. If civilly treated, the people went into 
 the forests to spots where they knew elephants had been 
 killed, either by traps or spears, and bought the tusks for 
 a few copper bracelets. I have seen parties return with so 
 much ivory that thej' carried it by three relays of hundreds 
 of slaves, but even this does not satisfy human greed. 
 
 The Manj'cma were found to be terrified by the report of 
 guns. Some I know consider them to be supernatural, for 
 when the effects of a musket ball were shown on a goat, 
 they looked up to the clouds, and offered to bring ivory to 
 buy the charm by which lightning was brought from the 
 skies. When a village was assaulted, the men fled in terror, 
 and the women and children were captured. Many of the 
 Manyema women, especially far down the Lualaba, are very 
 pretty, light colored, and lovely. It was common to hear 
 the Zanzibar slaves — whose faces resemble the features of 
 London door-knockers, which some atrocious iron founder 
 thought were like those of lions — say to each other : "Oh 1 
 if we had Manyema wives, what pretty children we should 
 get ! " Manyema men and women were all vastly, superior 
 to the slaves, who evidently felt the inferiority they had 
 acquired by wallowing in the mire of bondage. Many of 
 the men were tall, strapping fellows, with but little of what 
 we think distinctive of the negro about them. If one relied 
 on the teachings of phrenology, the Manyema men would 
 take a high place in the human family. They felt their 
 superiority, and often said, truly, " Were it not for the 
 firearms, not one of the strangers would ever leave our 
 country I " If a comparison were instituted, and Manyema, 
 taken at random, placed opposite, say the members of the 
 
528 LARGE CROPS. 
 
 Anthropological Society of London, clad in kilts or grass 
 doth, I should like to take my place alongside the Man- 
 yema, on the principle of preferring the company of my 
 betters. The philosophers would look wofuUy scraggy ; 
 hut though the inferior race, as we compassionately call 
 them, have finely formed heads, and often handsome fea- 
 tures, they are undoubtedly cannibals. It was more diffi- 
 cult to ascertain this than maj' be imagined. Some think 
 they can detect the gnawings of the canine teeth of our 
 cannibal ancestrj' of fossil bones. Though the canine teeth 
 of dogs are pretty much lilie human, for many months all 
 the evie^ence I could collect amounted to what would lead 
 a Scotch jur^' to give a verdict of "not proven." This 
 arose partly from the fellows being fond of a joke, and they 
 liked to horrify any one who seemed credulous. They led 
 one of my people, who believed all they said, to see the 
 skull of a recent human victim, and he invited me in 
 triumph. I found it to be the skull of a gorilla, here called 
 goko, and for the first time became aware of the existence 
 of the animal there. 
 
 The country abounds in food of all kinds, and a rich soil 
 raises everything planted in great luxuriance. A friend of 
 mine tried rice, and in between three and four months the 
 crop increased one hundred and twenty fold. Three mea- 
 sures of seed yielded three hundred and sixty measures. 
 Maize is so abundant that I have seen forty-five loads, each 
 about sixty pounds weight, given for a single goat. The 
 maize dura, or holcus sorghum, hennistum, cassava, sweet 
 potato, and yams furnish in no stinted measure farinaceous 
 ingredients for diet ; the palm oil, groundnuts, and a forest 
 tree afford fatty material food ; bananas and plantains in 
 great profusion, and the sugar-cane, the saccharine; the 
 palm toddy, beer of bananas, tobacco, and range (canabis 
 salina), the luxuries of life ; and the villages swarm with 
 goats, sheep, hogs, pigs, and fowl, while elephants, buffa- 
 loes, zebra3> and gokos, or gorillas, yield to expert hunters 
 plenty of the nitrogenous ingredients of human food. It 
 
THS ADVANTAGE OF CHRISTIANITY. 629 
 
 rras puzzling to see why they should be cannibals. New 
 Zealanders, we are told, were cannibals because thej'^ had 
 killed all their gigantic birds, the moa, etc., and they wera 
 converted from the man-eating persuasion by the introduc- 
 tion of pigs ; but the Manyema have plenty of pigs and 
 ether domestic animals, and yet they are cannibals. Into 
 the reason for their cannibalism they do not enter. They 
 Bay that human flesh is not equal to that of goats or pigs. 
 It is saltish, and makes them dream of the dead. Why 
 fine looking men like them should be so low in the moral 
 scale can only be attributed to the non-introduction of that 
 religion which makes those distinctions among men which 
 phrenology and other " ologies " cannot explain. The reli- 
 gion of Christ is unquestionably the best for man. I refer 
 to it not as the Protestant, the Catholic, the Greek, or any 
 other, but to the comprehensive faith which has spread 
 more widely over the world than most people imagine, and 
 whose votaries, of .whatever name, are better men than any 
 outside the pale. We have, no doubt, grievous faults, but 
 these are in part owing to want of religion. Christians, 
 generally, are better than the heathen, but often don't show 
 it ; and they are immeasurably better than they believe each 
 other to be. The Manyema women, especially far down the 
 Lualaba, are very pretty and very industrious. The mai'ket 
 with them is a great institution, and the^' work hard and 
 carry far, in order to have something to sell. Markets are 
 established about ten or fifteen miles apart. There thosa 
 who raise cassava, maize, grain and sweet potatoes, ex- 
 change them for oil, salt, pepper, fish, and other relishes. 
 Fowls, also pigs, goats, grass cloth, mats and other articles 
 change hands. All dressed in their last candy-colored, 
 many-folded kilts, that reach from waist to knee, when two 
 or three thousand are together, they form an interesting 
 Bight. They enforce justice, though chiefly women, and 
 they are such eager traders, that they set off in companies, 
 by night, and begin to run as soon as they come within the 
 hum ari.-.iug from hundreds of voices. To baggie, and 
 
530 HATIVE MARKETS. 
 
 joke, and laugh, and cheat, seem the dearest enjoyments of 
 life. They confer great benefit upon each other. The 
 Manyema women are expert divers for oysters, and they 
 sell them and flsh in exchange for farinaceous food from 
 the women in the East, the Lualaba, who prefer cultivating 
 the soil to fishing. The Manyema have always told us that 
 women going to market are never molested. When tha 
 men of two districts are engaged in actual open hostilities, 
 the women passed through from one market to another un- 
 harmed. To take away her goods, even in war, was a thing 
 not to be done ; but at these market women the half-castes 
 directed their guns. 
 
 Two cases that came under my own observation were so 
 sickening that I cannot allow my mind to dwell upon them, 
 or write about them. Many of both sexes were killed, but 
 the women and children were chiefly made captives. No 
 matter how much ivorj'' they obtained, these nigger Moslems 
 must have slaves, and they assaulted market people and vil- 
 lages, and made captives chiefly of women and children ; as 
 it appeared to me, and because as men ran off at the report 
 of guns, they could do it without danger. I had no idea 
 before how bloodthirsty men can be, when they can pour 
 out the blood of their fellow-men in safety ; and all this 
 carnage is going on in Manyema at the very time I write. 
 It is the Banians, our protected Indian fellow-subjects, that 
 indirectly do it. All we have conceded the Sultan of Zan- 
 zibar has been a right which it was not ours to give, of a 
 certain amount of slave trading, and that amount has been 
 from 12,000 to 20,000 slaves a year, as we have seen. These 
 are not traded for, but murdered, for they are not slaves, 
 but free people made captive. A Sultan with a sense of 
 justice would, instead of taking head money, declare that 
 all were free as soon as they reached his territory ; but 
 Banians have the Custom House and all tiie Sultan's reve- 
 nue entirely in their hands. He cannot trust his Moham- 
 medan subjects, even of the better class, to farm the in- 
 come ; because, as they thepiselves say, he would get noth- 
 
EXTTER TO THE ENQLTSH GOVERNMENT. 531 
 
 ing in return but a crop of lies. The Banians actually 
 work the Custom House so as to screen their own slave 
 agents, and as long as they have power to promote it, their 
 atrocious system of slavery will never cease for sake of 
 lawful cmnmerce. It would be politic to insist that the 
 Sultan's revenue by the Custom House should be placed in 
 the hands of an English or American merchant of known 
 reputation and uprightness By this arrangement the Sul- 
 tan would be largelj' benefited, legal commerce be exalted 
 to a position it has never held since the Banians and Mos- 
 lems emigrated into Eastern Africa ; and Christianity, to 
 ■which the slave trade is an insurmountable barrier, would 
 find an open door. 
 
 David Livingstonb. 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 LIVINGSTONE'S XKTTEB TO THE ENGLISH GOVERNMENT. 
 
 The result of the Stanley expedition in search of Liv- 
 ingstone was as unexpected, and in some respects as mor- 
 tifying to English pride, since what their Government 
 expeditions had failed signally to accomplish, an enter- 
 prise undertaken quietly by private persons had brought 
 to a successful termination, that doubts were expressed aa 
 to the genuineness of the letters from Livingstone brought 
 home by Mr. Stanley, while in some quarters it was ques- 
 tioned whether Mr. Stanley had ever met Livingstone, or 
 had ever penetrated so far into Africa. The following let- 
 ters to Mr. Stanley from Earl Granville, and from Dr. Liv- 
 ingstone's son, should be sufficient to satisfy even the mo»t 
 sceptical of their authenticity. 
 
532 EARL qeanville's endorsement. 
 
 From Earl Granville to H. M. Stanley. 
 
 August 2, 1872. 
 
 Dear, Sir : — I was not aware, until you mentioned, it, 
 that there was any doubt as to the authenticity of Dr. Liv- 
 ingstone's despatches which you delivered to Lord Lyons 
 on the 31st of July ; but in consequence of what you have 
 said, I have inquired into the matter, and I find that Mr. 
 Hammond, the TJnder Secretary of the Foreign Office, and 
 Mr. Wyld, the head of the Consular and Slave Departmenfr 
 have not the slightest doubt as to tJie genuineness of th* 
 papers which have been received from Lord Lyons, and 
 which are being printed. 
 
 I cannot omit this opportunity of expressing to you my 
 admiration of the qualities which have enabled you to achieve 
 the object of your mission, and to attain a result which has 
 been hailed with so much enthusiasm, both in the United 
 States and in this coulitry. 
 
 I am, sir, your obedient, 
 
 Granvillb. 
 
 Henry M. Stanley, Esq. 
 
 The letter from Dr. Livingstone's son is as follows : 
 " Mr. Henry M. Stanley has handed to me to-day the 
 diary of Dr. Livingstone, my father, sealed and signed by 
 my father, with instructions written on the outside, signed 
 by my father, for the care of which, and for all his actions 
 concerning and to my father, our very best thanks are 
 due. We have not the slightest reason to doubt that 
 this is my father's journal, and I certify that those letters 
 which he has brought home arc my father's letters, and no 
 etkera. 
 
 S. LlVIMQSTONB. 
 
 In Wiese letters from Dr. Livingstone will be found » 
 most complete account of his explorations from the date 
 when his communication ceased with the coast, to tha 
 
LIVINGSTONE TO LORD STANLEY! 533 
 
 X)eriod when he was found by Mr. Stanley, together with 
 the results of his labors, and the plans he has formed for 
 «)ompleti'ng his discoveries. 
 
 Dr. Limngstone to Lord Stanley. 
 
 Bambarre, Manyuema Country, 
 
 say 150 miles west of Ujiji, Nov. 15tfi, 18t0. 
 M*T Lord: — As soon as I recovered suflBcien'tly to b« 
 *ble to march from Ujiji, I went up Tanganyika about sixty 
 miles, and thence struck away northwest into the country 
 of the Manyuema or Manyema, the reputed cannibals. My 
 object was to follow down the central line of drainage of 
 the Great Nile Valley, which I had seen passing through 
 the great Lake Bangweolo, and changing its name from 
 Chambezi to Luapula ; then again, on passing through 
 Lake Moero, assuming the name Lualaba, and after forming 
 a third lake (Komolondo) becoming itself a great riveriaa 
 lake, with many islands in it, I soon found myself in the 
 large bend vnbich this gi-eat lacustrine river makes by flow- 
 ing west about one hundred and eighty miles, then sweep- 
 ing round to the north. Two hours were . the utmost I 
 could accomplish in a day ; but bj' persevering I gained 
 strength, and in July came up to the trading party of Mu- 
 bamed Bogharib, who by native medicines and carriage 
 saved my life in my late severe illness in Marungu. Two 
 days before we reached Bambarre, the residence of the 
 most sensible of the Manyema chiefs, called Moenekus, we 
 met a band of Ujijian tradeys, carrying 18,000 pounds 
 weight of ivory, bought in this new field for a mere trifle, 
 in thick copper bracelets and beads. Tlie traders had been 
 obliged to employ their slaves to collect the ivory, and 
 slaves with guns in their hands are often no better than 
 ■demons. We heard but one side of the story — the slave 
 version — and such as would have appeared in the newspaper 
 if they had one : " the Manyema were very bad, were always 
 in the wrong," wanted in fact to eat the slaves, and always 
 45* 
 
634 HISTAKEN FOB A SLAVE TRADSR. 
 
 gave them just reason to capture women and children, 
 goats, sheep, fowls and grain. The masters did not quite 
 approve of this, but the deeds had been done, and then 
 tnasters and men joined in one harmonious chorus — " Th« 
 Manyema are bad, bad, bad, awfully bad, and cannibals." 
 
 In going west of Bambarre, in order to embark on the 
 Lualaba, I went down the Luarao, a river of from one hun- 
 dred to two hundred yards broad, which rises in the moun- 
 tains opposite Ujiji and flows across the great bend of th(» 
 Lualaba. When near its confluence I found myself among 
 people who had lately been maltreated by the slaves, and 
 they naturally looked upon me as of the same tribe as 
 their persecutors. Africans are not generall3' unreasonable, 
 though smarting under wrongs, if you can fairly make 
 them understand 3'our claim to innocence, and do not ap- 
 pear as having your " back up." The women here were 
 paticularl3' outspoken in asserting our identity with the 
 cruel strangers. On calling to one vociferous lady, who 
 gave me the head trader's name, to look at my color and 
 •ee if it were the same as his, she replied with a bitter little 
 laugh, " Then you must be his father." The worst the men 
 did was to turn out in force, armed with their large spears 
 and wooden shields, and show us out of their districts. 
 Glad that no collision took place, we returned to Bambarre, 
 and then, with our friend Muhamed, struck away due north ; 
 he to buy ivory, and I to reach another part of Lualaba 
 and buy a canoe. 
 
 The country is extremely beautiful, but difficult to travel 
 over. The mountains of light gray granite stand like is- 
 lands in new red sandstone, and mountain and valley are 
 all clad in a mantle of diflerent shades of green. The ve- 
 getation is indescribably rank. Through the grass — if grass 
 it ean be called, which is over half an inch in diameter in 
 the stalk and from ten to twelve feet high — nothing but 
 elephants can walk. The leaves of this megatherium grass 
 are armed with minute spikes ; which, as we worm our way 
 along elephant walks, rub disagreeably on the side of th* 
 
A BtOTJCWI OF DESPOND. 535 
 
 face where the gun is held, and the hand is made sore by 
 fending it off the other side for hours. The rains were 
 fairly set in by November; and in the mornings, or after a 
 shower, these leaves wei-e loaded with moisture which wet 
 us to the bone. The valleys are deeply undulating, and in 
 «ach innumerable dells have to be crossed. There may b« 
 only a thread of water at the bottom, but the mud, mire, 
 or (^ScoUice) " glaur " is grievous ; thirty or fortj' yards of 
 the path on each side of the stream are worked by the feet 
 of passengers into an adhesive compound. By placing a 
 foot on each side of the narrow waj' one may waddle a 
 little distance along, but the rank crop of grasses, gingers 
 and bushes cannot share the few inches of soil required for 
 the side of the foot, and down he comes into the slough. 
 The' path often runs along the bed of the rivulet for sixty 
 or more yards, as if he who first cut it out went that dis- 
 tance seeking for a part of the forest less dense for his axe. 
 In other cases the muale palm, from which here, as in Ma- 
 dagascar, grass-cloth is woven and called by the same name, 
 " lamha," has taken possession of the valley. The leaf 
 stalks, as thick as a strong man's arm, fall off and block 
 up all passage save by a path made and mixed up by the 
 feet of elephant's and buffaloes ; the slough therein is groan- 
 compelling and deep. 
 
 Every now and then the traders, with rueful faces, stand 
 panting ; the sweat trickles down my face, and I suppose 
 that I look as grim as they, though I try to cheer them 
 with the hope that good prices will reward them at the 
 coast for ivory obtained with so much toil. In some cases 
 the subsoil has given way beneath the elephants' enormous 
 weight ; the deep hole is filled with mod, and one, taking 
 it to be all about calf deep, steps in to the top of the thigh, 
 and flaps on to a seat soft enough, but not luxurious ; a 
 merry laugh relaxes the facial muscles, though I have no 
 ether reason for it than that it is better to laugh than 
 to cry. 
 
 Some of the numerous rivers which in this region flow 
 
636 BRIDGES OF GRASS. 
 
 into Lualaba are covered with living vegetable bridges ; a 
 species of dark glossy-leaved grass, with its roots aad 
 leaves, felts itself into a mat that covers the whole stream. 
 When stepped upon it yields twelve or fifteen inches, and 
 that amount of wate^ rises up on the leg. At every step 
 the foot has to be raised high enough to place it on the 
 unbent mass in front. This high stepping fatigues like 
 walking on deep snow. Here and there holes appear, which 
 •we could not sound with a stick six feet long; they gave 
 us the impression that anywhere one might plump through 
 and finish the chapter. Where the water is shallow the 
 lotus, or sacred lily, sends its roots to the bottom, and 
 spreads its broad leaves over the floating bridge, so as te 
 make believe that the mat is its own, but the grass referred 
 to is the real felting and supporting agent, for it often per- 
 forms duty as bridge where no lilies grow. The bridge is 
 called by Manj'ema " Kintefuetefwe," as if he who first 
 coined it was gasping for breath after plunging over a mile 
 of it. 
 
 Between each district of Manyema large belts of the 
 primeval forest still stand. Into these the sun, though 
 vertical, cannot penetrate, except by sending down at mid- 
 day thin pencils of rays into the gloom. The rain water 
 stands for months in stagnant pools made by the feet of 
 elephants ; and the dead leaves decay on the damp soil, 
 and make the water of the numerous rivulets of the color 
 of strong tea. The climbing plants, from the size of a 
 whip cord to that of a man-of-war's hawser, are so numerous 
 the ancieiit path is the only passage. When gne of the 
 ■ giant trees falls across the road it forms a wall breast high 
 to be climbed over, and the mass of tangled ropes brought 
 down makes cutting a path round it a work of time which 
 travellers never undertake. 
 
 The shelter of the forest from the sun makes it pleasant, 
 but the roots of trees high out of the soil across the path 
 keep the eyes, tjxlike, on the ground. The trees are so 
 high that a good shotguiTdoes no harm to the parrots or 
 
GORILLA NESTS. 53t 
 
 guinea fowls on their tops, and tliey are often so closely 
 planted that I have heard gorillas, here called " sokos," 
 growling about fifty yards off without getting a glimpse 
 of them. His nest is a poor contrivance ; it exhibits no 
 more architectural skill than the nest of our Cushat dove. 
 Here the " soko " sits in pelting rain, with his hands over 
 his head. The natives give him a good character, and from 
 what I have seen he deserves it, but they call his nest hit 
 house, and laugh at him for being such a fool as to build a 
 bouse and not go beneath it for shelter. 
 
 Bad water and frequent wettings told on us all, by cho- 
 leraic symptoms and loss of flesh. Meanwhile the news of 
 cheap ivory caused a sort of California gold fever at Ujiji, 
 and we were soon overtaken by a horde numbering 600 
 muskets, all eager for the precious tusks. These had been 
 left by the Manyema in the interminable forests where the 
 animals h d been slain. The natives knew where they lay, 
 and if treated civilly, readily brought them, many half 
 rotten, or gnawed by a certain rodent to sharpen his teeth", 
 as London rats do the leaden pipes. I had already in this 
 journey two severe lessons that travelling in an unhealthy 
 climate in the rainy season is killing work. By getting 
 drenched to the skin once too often in Marungu I had pneu- 
 monia, the illness to which I have referred, and that was 
 worse than ten fevers — that is fevers treated by our medi- 
 cine and not by the dirt supplied to Bishop Mackenzie at 
 the Cape as the same. Besides being unwilling to bear 
 the new comers' company, I feared that by further expo- 
 sure in the rains the weakness might result in something 
 worse. 
 
 I went seven days southwards, to a camp formed by the 
 head men of the ivory hord, and on the Tth of February 
 went into winter quarters. I found these men as civil and 
 kind as I could wish. 
 
 A letter from the Sultan of Zanzibar, which I owe to the 
 kindness of Sir Bartle Frere, has been of immense service 
 to me with most of his subjects. I had no medicine; but 
 
838 AT THE MEBCY OF HIS MEN. 
 
 rest, shelter, boiling all the water I used, and a new potatoc 
 found among the natives, as restoratives, soon put me all 
 right. 
 
 The rains continued into July, and fifty-eight inches fell. 
 The mud from the clayey soil was awful, and -it laid up 
 eoifie of the strongest men, in spite of .their intense eager- 
 ness for ivory. 
 
 I lost no time after it was feasible to travel in preparing 
 to follow the river, but my attendants were fed and lodged 
 by the slave w^omen, whose husbands were away from cainp 
 on trade, and pretended to fear going into a canoe. I con- 
 sented to refrain from buying one. They then pretended to 
 fear th» people, though the inhabitants all along the Lua- 
 laba were reported by the slaves to be remarkably friendly. 
 I have heard both slaves and freemen say, " No one will 
 ever attack people so good," as they found them. Else- 
 where I could employ the country people as carriers, and 
 was comparatively independent, though deserted by some 
 four times over. But in Manj'ema no one can be induced 
 to go into the next district, for fear, they say, of being 
 killed and eaten. 
 
 I was at the mercy of those who had been Moslem slaves, 
 and knew that in thwarting me they had the sympathy of 
 all that class in. the country; and as many others wonld 
 have done, took advantage of the situation. 
 
 I went on with only three attendants, and this time 
 northwest, in ignorance tliat the great river flows west and 
 by south ; but no one could tell me anything about it. 
 
 A broad belt of buga, or prairie, lies along the right bank. 
 Inland from this it is all primeval forest, with villages from 
 eight to ten miles apart. One sees the sun only in the 
 cleared spaces around human dwellings. From the facili- 
 ties of escaping, the forest people are wilder and more dan- 
 gerous than those on the buga lands. 
 
 Muhamed's people went further on in the forest than I 
 could, and came to the mountainous country of the Ba- 
 kgga, who collected in large numbers and demanded of the 
 
MOUNTAINS AND HOT SPRINGS. 639 
 
 •trangers why they came. " We came to buy ivory," was 
 the reply, " and if you have none, no harm is done ; we 
 shall return." "Nay I "they shouted, "you came to die, 
 and this day is your last ; you came to die — you came to 
 die ! " When forced to fire on the Balegga, the terror wa» 
 like their insolence-^extreme. And next day, when sent 
 for to take away the women and children who were cap- 
 tured, no one appeared. 
 
 Having travelled with my informants, I knew their ac- 
 counts to be trustworthy. The. rivers crossed by them ar« 
 numerous .and large. One was so tortuous, they were five 
 hours in water waist and often neck deep, with a man in a 
 small canoe, sounding for places which they could pass. 
 In another case they were two hours in the water, and they 
 could see nothing in the forest, and nothing in the Balegga 
 country, but one mountain packed closely on the back of 
 another, without end, and a very hot fountain in one of th« 
 vallej-s. 
 
 I found continual wading in mud grievous ; for the first 
 time in niy life my feet failed. When torn by hard travel, 
 instead of healing kindly, as heretofore, irritable ulcers 
 fastened on each foot. The people were invariably civil, 
 and even kind ; for, curiously enough, the Zanzibar slaves 
 propagated everywhere glowing accounts of my goodness, 
 and of the English generally, because they never mad* 
 slaves. 
 
 A trading party passed us, and one of their number was 
 pinned to the ground by a spear at dead of night, while I 
 was sleeping, with my three attendants, at a village closa 
 by. Nine villages had been burned, and, as the author of 
 the outrage told me, at le&st forty men killed, because a 
 Manyema man tried to steal a string of beads. The mid- 
 night assassination was revenge for the loss of friends 
 there. It was evident that reaction against the bloody 
 slaving had set in. 
 
 The accounts, evidently truthful, given by Muhamed't 
 people showed that nothing would be gained by going fur- 
 
540 LAID UP WWH ULOBEATED FEET. 
 
 ther in. our present course, and being now very lame, I 
 limped back to Bambarre, and here I was laid up by the 
 eating ulcers for many months. They are common in the 
 Manyema country, and kill many slaves. If the foot is 
 placed on the ground, blood flows, and every night a dis- 
 charge of bloody ichor flows, with pain tliat prevents sleep. 
 The wailing of the poor slaves, with ulcers that eat through 
 everything, even bone, is one of the night sounds of a slave 
 camp. They are probably allied to fever. 
 
 I have been minute, even to triviality, that your Lord- 
 ship may have a clear idea of the diflBculties of exploratioa 
 in this region. Satisfactory progress could only be made 
 in canoes, with men accustomed to the work. I tried hard 
 to get other men at Ujiji, but all the traders were eager to 
 secure the carriers for themselves, and circulated the report 
 that I would go from Manyema to my own country, and 
 leave my people to shift for themselves, like Spieke ; they 
 knew perfectly that Speke's men left him first. It was like 
 the case of certain Makololo, who left me on the Shire, and 
 refused to carry back the medicine to their chief, for which 
 they had come. I was afterwards accused by men similar 
 to the TJjijans of having abandoned them, though I gave 
 them cattle even after they deserted me — these being the 
 ■wealth that they value most highly. 
 
 Failing to obtain other men at Ujiji, I might have waited 
 In comfort there till those for whom I had written should 
 come from the coast, and my great weakness almost de- 
 manded that I should do so ; but I had then, as now, an 
 Intense desire to finish the work and retire. But on learn- 
 ing some parts of the history of the Lewale, or Arab 
 Governor, of Unyanyembe, I had grave suspicions that my 
 letters would be destroyed. He conducted the first English 
 expedition from Zanzibar to Ujiji and Uvira, and back 
 again to the coast, and was left unpaid till the Indian 
 Government took the matter up and sent him $1000. He 
 seems to be naturally an ill-conditioned mortal — a hater of 
 the English. When I sent a stock of goods to be plac«d 
 
IVORY FEVER. 541 
 
 in depot at TJjiji, to await my arrival, the Banyamwezi por- 
 ters, as usual, brought them honestly to Unyanyerabe ; the 
 Governor then gave them in charge to his slave Saloom, 
 ■who stopped the caravan ten days on the way here, while 
 he plundered it, and went off to buy ivory for his master, 
 ia Karajue. It was evident that he would do what ha 
 could to prevent evidence of the plundering from going to 
 the coast ; and his agent at Ujiji, who knew all this, though 
 I did not, after I had paid him in full all he aslced to send 
 the packet, with about fortj' letters, returned it back to me 
 with the message, " that he did not know what words these 
 letters contained." Two of my friends protested strongly, 
 and he took the packet. When I learned the character of 
 the Governor, I lost all hope of any letters going to the 
 coast, and took back my deserters, making allowance for 
 their early education, and for the fact that they did well 
 after Musa fled, up to the time a black Arab, who had long 
 been a prisoner with Cazembe, joined us. He encouraged 
 them to desert, and harbored them, and when they relented 
 on seeing me go off to Bangweolo with only four followers, 
 and 'proposed to follow me, he dissuaded them by the gratui- 
 tous assertion that there was war in the country to which 
 I was going ; and he did many other things which we think 
 discreditable, though he got his liberty solely by the influ- 
 ence I brought to Cazembe. Yet, judged by the East 
 African Moslem standard, as he ought to be, and not by 
 ours, he is a very good man ; and as I have learned to keep 
 my own counsel among them, I never deemed it prudent 
 to come to a rupture with the old "ne'er-do-well." 
 
 Compelled to inactivity here for many months, I offered 
 $1000 to some of the traders for the loan of ten of their 
 people. This is more than that number of men ever obtain, 
 but their imaginations were inflamed, and each expected to 
 make a fortune by the ivory now lying rotting in the 
 forests, and none would consent to my proposition till his 
 goods should be all expended, and no hope of more ivorj 
 remained. 
 46 
 
512 QOBti:.I/A EATERS. 
 
 I lived ill what may be called the Tipperary of Manyema, 
 and they are certainly a bloody people among themselves. 
 But they are very far from being in appearance like the 
 ugly negroes on the West Coast. Finely formed heads are 
 common, and generally men and women are vastly superior 
 to the slaves of Zanzibar and elsewhere. We must go 
 deeper than phrenology to account for their low moral tone. 
 If they are cannibals, they are not ostentatiously so. Th« 
 neighboring tribes all assert that they are man-eaters, and 
 they themselves laughingly admit the charge. But they 
 like to impose on the credulous, and they showed the skull 
 of ft recent victim to horrify one of my people. I found it 
 to be the skull of a gorilla, or soko — the first I knew of 
 its existence here — and this they do eat. 
 
 If I had believed a tenth of what I heard from traders, 
 I might never have entered the country. Their people told 
 tales with shocking circumstantiality, as if of eye-witnesses, 
 that could not be committed to paper, or even spoken 
 about beneath the breath. Indeed, one wishes them to 
 vanish from memory. But fortunately, I was never fright- 
 ened in infancy with " bogie," and am not liable to attacks 
 of what may almost be called " bogiephobia ; " for the 
 patient, in a paroxysm, believes everything horrible, if only 
 it be ascribed to the possessor of a black skin. 
 
 I have not j'et been able to make up my mind whether 
 the Manyema are cannibals or not. I have offered goods 
 of sufficient value to tempt any of them to call me to see a 
 cannibal feast in the dark forests where these orgies are 
 eaid to be held, but hitherto in vain. All the real evidence 
 yet obtained would elicit from a Scotch jury the verdict 
 only of " Not proven." 
 
 Although I have not done half I hoped to accomplish, I 
 trust your Lordship's kind consideration to award me your 
 approbation, and am, etc., 
 
 • David Livingstone, 
 
 Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. 
 
3 
 
 o 
 
uusa's real oharaoteb. C43 
 
 Dr. Livingstone to Lord Clarendon. 
 
 Ujiji, Nm. 1, 1871. 
 
 My Lord: — I became aware of Mr. Young's search ex- 
 pedition only in February last, and that by a private letter 
 from Sir Roderick Murchison. Though late in expressing 
 my thankfulness, I am not the less sincere in saying that I 
 feel extremely obliged to Her Majesty's Government, to 
 the Admiralty, to Captain Richards, to Sir Roderick Mur- 
 chison, to Mr. Young, and all concerned in promoting the 
 kind and vigorous inquiry after my fate. Had the low tona 
 of morality among the East African Mohammedans been 
 known, Musa's tale wonld have received but little atten- 
 tion. Musa is, perhaps, a little better than the average 
 low-class Moslem, but all are notorious for falsehood and 
 heartlessness. 
 
 When on the Shire we were in the habit of swinging the 
 vessel out into midstream every evening, in order that the 
 air set in motion by the current of the river might pass 
 through her entire length the whole night long. One 
 morning Musa's brother-in-law stepped into the water in 
 order to swim off for a boat, to bring his companions on 
 board, and was seized by a crocodile ; the poor fellow held 
 up his hand, as if imploring assistance, in vain. On de- 
 nouncing Musa's heartlessness, he replied : " Well, no one 
 tell him to go in there." At another time, when we wera 
 at Senona, a slave woman was seized by a crocodile ; four 
 Makololo rushed in unbidden and rescued her, though they 
 knew nothing about her. Long experience leads me to 
 look on these incidents as typical of the two races. The 
 race of mixed blood possesses the vices of both parents, 
 and the virtues of neither. I have had more service out 
 of low-class Moslems than any one else. The Baron Van 
 der Decken was plundered of all his goods by this class, iu 
 an attempt to go to Nyassa. As it was evidently done 
 with the connivance of his Arab guide, Sved Majib ordered 
 
544 THB sui^tan's subjects. 
 
 him to refund the whole. It was the same clasa that, by 
 means of a few Somauli, ultimately compassed the Baron's 
 destruction. In Barton's expedition to Ujiji and Virra, 
 he was obliged to dismiss all his followers of this class at 
 Ujiji, for dishonesty. Most of Speke's followers deserted 
 )n the first appearance of danger, and Musa and com- 
 panions fled on hearing a false report from a half cast* 
 Moslem like themselves, that he had been plundered by 
 Mazitu, at a spot which, from having accompanied tuq 
 thither and beyond it, they knew to be 150 miles, or say 
 twenty days distant, and I promised to go due west, and 
 not turn northward until far past the beat of the Mazitu. 
 But in former journeys we came through Portuguese, who 
 would promptly have seized deserters ; while here, at the 
 lower end of Nyassa, we were on the Kilwa slave route, 
 where all their countrymen would fawn on and flatter them 
 for baffling the Nazarines, as they call us Christians. 
 
 As soon as I turned my face west they all ran away, and 
 they had no other complaint but " the Mazitu." All my 
 difficulties in this journey have arisen from having low- 
 class Moslems, or those who have been so before they were 
 captured. Even of the better class, few can be trusted. 
 The Sultan places all his income and pecuniary affairs in 
 the hands of Banians, from India. When the gentlemen 
 of Zanzibar are asked why their Sultan entrusts his money 
 to aliens alone, they readily answer it is owing to their own 
 prevailing faithlessness. Some, Indeed, assea't, with a 
 laugh, that if their sovereign allowed any of them to farm 
 his revenue, he would receive nothing but a crop of lie». 
 In their case religion and morality are completely dis- 
 jointed. It is, therefore, not surprising that, in all their 
 long intercouse with the tribes on the mainland, not one 
 attempt has been made to propagate the Mohammedan 
 faith. I am very far from being unwilling to acknowledge 
 and even admire the zeal of other religionists than the 
 Christian ; but repeated inquiries among all classes have 
 only left the conclusion that they have propagated syphilis 
 
A TRAMP OF FOBR HUNDRED MILES. 645 
 
 and the domestic bug alone. Any one familiar with the 
 secondary symptoms will see at a glance, on the mainland, 
 the skin diseases and bleared eyes, which say that unlimited 
 polj'gamy lias been no barrier to the spread of this foul 
 disease. Compared with them, the English lower classes 
 are gentlemen. 
 
 I am unfeignedly thankful for the kindness that prompted 
 And carried out the Search Expedition, and am, etc., 
 
 David Livingstone, 
 Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Afrtca. 
 
 P. S. — Nov. 15. — I have just learned that Musa and com- 
 panions, after breaking their engagement to serve for 
 twenty months, which was formallj' entered into before 
 Mr. Sunlej', went to that gentleman, and, after solemnly 
 assuring him that 1 had been murdered, demanded pay for 
 all the time they had been absent, and received it. They 
 received from me advance of pay and clothing, amounting 
 to £40 sterling. I now transmit the particulars to Dr. 
 Kirk, the political agent, and demand that the advances, 
 and also the pay, should be refunded ; for if they are 
 allowed to keep both as the reward of falsehood, the pun- 
 ishment enjoined to be inflicted by Lord Stanley will only 
 be laughed at. D. L. 
 
 Dr. Livingstone to Lord Clarendon. 
 
 Ujiji, Nov. Ut, 1871. 
 My Lord: — I wrote a very hurried letter on the 28th ult., 
 and sent it by a few men who had resolved to run the risk 
 of passing through contending jjarties of Banyamwezi and 
 mainland Arabs at Unyanyembe, which is some twenty 
 days east of this. I had just come off a tramp of more 
 than four hundred miles, beneath a vertical torrid sun, and 
 was 80 jaded in body and mind by being forced back by 
 faithless, cowardly attendants that I could have written 
 little more, though the messengers had not been in such a 
 hurry to depart as they were. I have now the prospect of 
 46* 
 
646 THE WATERSHED OF THE NILE. 
 
 sending this safely to the coast bj' a friend; but so many 
 of my letters have disappeared at Unyanyembe when en- 
 trusted to the care of the Leuale, or Governor, who i8 
 merely the trade agent of certain Banians, that I shall con- 
 sider that of tlic 38th as one of the unfortunates, and give 
 in this as much as 1 can recall. 
 
 I have ascertained that the watershed of the Nile is a 
 broad upland between ten degrees and twelve degrees south 
 latitude, and from 4000 to 5000 feet above the level of the 
 sea. Mountains stand on it at various points, which, though 
 apparently not very high, are between 6000 and TOOO feet 
 of actual altitude. The watershed is over VOO miles in 
 length from west to east. The springs that rise on it are 
 almost innumerable — that is, it would take a lai'ge part of 
 a man's life to count them. A bird's eye view of some 
 parts of the watershed would resemble the frost vegetation 
 on window panes. Thej' all begin in an ooze at the head 
 of a slightly depressed valley. A few hundred j'ards down 
 the quantity of water from oozing earthen sponge forms a 
 brisk perennial burn or brook a fevv feet broad, and deep , 
 enough to require a bridge. These are the ultimate or 
 primary sources of the great rivers that flow to the north 
 in the great Nile valley. The primaries unite and form 
 streams in general larger than the Isis at Oxford, or Avon 
 at Hamilton, and may be called secondary sources. They 
 never dry, but unite again into four large lines of drainage, 
 the head waters or mains of the river of Egypt. These 
 four are each called by the natives Lualaba, which, if not 
 too pedantic, may be spoken of as lacustrine i-ivers, extant 
 •pecimens of those which in pi-ehistoric times abounded in 
 Africa, and which in the south are still called by Bechua- 
 uas "Melapo," in the north, by Arabs, " Wadys;" both 
 words meaning the same thing — riverbed in which no water 
 ever flows. Two of the fonr great rivers mentioned fall 
 into the central Lualaba, or Webb's Lake River, and then 
 we have but two main lines of drainage as depicted nearly 
 by Ptolemy. 
 
A SPRING KVKaY TWO MILES. 54T 
 
 The prevailing winds on the watershed are from the 
 south-east. This is easily observed by the direction of the 
 branches, and the humidity of the climate is apparent in 
 the numbers of lichens which make the upland forest look 
 like the mangrove swamps on the coast. 
 
 In passing over sixty miles of latitude I waded thirty- 
 two primary sources from calf to waist deep, and requiring 
 from twenty minutes to an hour and a quarter. to cross 
 stream and sponge. This would give about one source to 
 every two miles. 
 
 A Suaheli friend in passing along part of the Lake 
 Bangweolo during six daj's counted twenty-two from thigh 
 to waist deep. This lake is on the watershed, for the vil- 
 lage at which I observed on its northwest shore was a few 
 seconds into eleven degrees south, and its southern shores 
 and springs and rivulets are certainly in twelve degrees 
 Bouth. I tried to cross it in order to measure the breadth 
 accurately. The first stage to an inhabited island was 
 about twenty-four miles. From the highest point here the 
 tops of the trees, evidently lifted by the mirage, could be 
 seen on the second stage and the third stage; the mainland 
 was seen to be as far as this bej'ond it. But my canoemen 
 had stolen the canoe, and got a hint that the real owners 
 were in pursuit and got into a flurry to return home. 
 " They would come back for me in a few days trulj'," but I 
 had only my coverlet left to hire another craft if they 
 should leave me in this wide expanse of water, and being 
 4000 feet above the sea it was very cold ; so I returned. 
 
 The length of this lake is, at a very moderate estimate, 
 150 miles. It gives forth a large body of water in the 
 Luapula; yet lakes are in no sense sources, for no large 
 river begins in a lake ; but this and others serve an im- 
 portant purpose in the phenomena of the Nile. It is one 
 large lake, and unlike the Okara, which, according to Sua- 
 heli, who travelled long in our company, is three or four 
 lakes run into one huge Victoria Nyanza, gives out a large 
 river which, on departing out of Moero, is still larger. 
 
548 THE WHITE NIIiB. 
 
 These men had spent many years east of Okara, and could 
 scarcely be mistaken in saj'ing that of the three or four 
 lakes there only one (the Okara) gives off its waters to 
 the north. 
 
 The " White Nile " of Speke, less by a full half than the 
 Shire out of Nj'assa (for it is only eighty or ninety yards 
 broad) can scarcely be named in comparison with the cen- 
 tral or Webb's Lualaba, of two thousand yards, in relation 
 to the phenomena of the Nile. The structure and economy 
 of the watershed answer very much the same end as the 
 great lacustrine rivers, but I cannot at present copy a lost 
 despatch which explains that. The mountains on the water- 
 shed are probably what Ptolemy, for reasons now unknown, 
 called the Mountains of the Moon. From their bases I 
 found that the springs of the Nile do unquestionably arise. 
 This is just what Ptolemy put down, and is true geography. 
 We must accept the fountains, and nobody but Philistines 
 will reject the mountains, though we cannot conjecture 
 the reason for the name. 
 
 Mounts Kenia and Kilimanjaro are said to be snow- 
 capped, but they are so far from the sources, and send no 
 water to any part of the Nile, they could never have been 
 meant by the correct ancient explorers, from whom Ptolemy 
 and his predecessors gleaned their true geography, so dif- 
 ferent from the trash that passes current in modern times. 
 
 Before leaving the subject of the watershed, I may add 
 that I know about six hundred miles of it, but am not yet 
 satisfied, for unfortunately the seventh hundred is the most 
 Interesting of the whole. I have a verj' strong impression 
 that in the last hundred miles the fountains of the Nile 
 mentioned to Herodotus by the Secretary of Minerva in 
 the city of Sais do arise, not like all the rest, from oozing 
 .earthen sponges, but from an earthen mound, and half the 
 water flows northward toward Egypt, the other half south 
 to Inner Ethiopia. These fountains, at no great distance 
 off, become large rivers, though at the mound they are not 
 more then ten miles apart. That is one fountain rising ou 
 
rEAR OF HYDK0CKPHALU8. 549 
 
 the northeast of the mound becomes Bartle Prere's Lua. 
 laba, and it flows into one of the lakes proper, Komoloudo, 
 of the central line of drainage ; Webb's Lualaba, the second 
 fountain rising on the northwest, becomes (Sir Paraffin) 
 Young's Lualaba, which passing through Lake Lincoln 
 and becoming Locki or Lomami, and joining the central 
 line too, goes north to Egypt. The third fountain on tho 
 •outhwest, Palmerstone's, becomes the Liambia or Upper 
 Zambesi, while the fourth, Oswell's fountain, becomes tha 
 Kafue and falls into Sambesi in Inner Ethiopia.- 
 
 More time has been spent in exploration then I ever an- 
 ticipated. My bare expenses never paid for two years ; 
 but had I left when the money was expended I could have 
 given little more information about the country than the 
 Portuguese, who, in their three slave-trading expeditions 
 to Cazembe, asked for slaves and ivory alone, and heard 
 of nothing else. From one of the subordinates of their 
 last so-called expedition I learnt that it was believed that 
 the Luapula went lu Angola I I asked about the waters 
 until I was ashamed, and almost afraid of being set down 
 as afflicted with hydrocephalus. I had to feel my way, and 
 . every step of the way, and was generally groping in the 
 dark; for who cared where the rivers ran ? Many a weary 
 foot I trod ere I got a clear idea of the drainage of the 
 great Nile valley. The most intelligent natives and traders 
 thought that all the rivers of the upper part of that valley 
 flowed into Tanganyika. But the barometers told me that 
 to do so the water must flow up hill. The great rivers and 
 thtt great lakes all make their waters converge into the 
 deep trough of the valley, which is a full inch of the baro- 
 meter lower than the Upper Tanganyika. It is only a 
 sense of duty, which I trust your lordship will approve, 
 that makes me remain and, if possible, finish the geogra- 
 phical question of my mission. After being thwarted, bat 
 fled, robbed, worried almost to death in following the cen- 
 tral line of drainage down, I have a sore longing for home j 
 have had a perfect surfeit of seeing strange, ne^ lands and 
 
650 SigK OF BTBANGE COUNTRIES. 
 
 people, grand mountains, lovely valleys, the glorious vegey 
 tation of primeval forests, wild beasts and an endless suc- 
 cession of beautiful man ; besides great rivers and vast 
 lakes — the last the most interesting from their huge out- 
 flowings, which explain some of the phenomena of the 
 grand old Nile. 
 
 Let me explain, but in no boastful style, the mistakes of 
 others who have bravely striven to solve the ancient pro- 
 blem, and it will be seen that I have cogent reasons for 
 following tjie painful, plodding investigation to its conclu- 
 eion. Poor Speke's mistake was a foregone conclusion. 
 When he discovered the Victoria Nyanza he at once jumped 
 to the conclusion that therein lay the sources of the river 
 of Egypt, " 20,000 square miles of water " confused by 
 sheer immensity. 
 
 Ptolemy's small lake " Coloc " is a more correct repre- 
 Bentation of the actual size of that one of three or fout 
 lakes which alone sends its outflow to the north. Its name 
 is Okara. Lake Kavirondo is three days distant from it, 
 but connected by a narrow arm. Lake Naibash or Neibash, 
 is four days from Kavirondo. Baringo is ten days distant, 
 and discharges by a river, the Nagardabash, to the north- 
 east. 
 
 These three or four lakes, which have been described by 
 several intelligent Suaheli, who have lived for many years 
 on their shores, were run into one huge Victoria Nji^anza. 
 But no sooner did Speke and Grant turn their faces to this 
 lake, to prove that it contained the Nile fountains, than 
 they turned their backs to the springs of the river of 
 Egypt, which are between four hundred and five hundred 
 miles south of the most southerly portion of the Victoria 
 Lake. Every step of their heroic and really splendid achieve- 
 ment of following the river down took them further and 
 further from the sources they sought. But for the devotion 
 to the foregone conclusion the sight of the little " White 
 Nile," as, unable to account for that great river, they must 
 have turned off to the west down into the deep trough of 
 
baker's mistakb. 551 
 
 the great valley, and there found lacustrine rivers amply 
 Bufflcieut to account for the Nile and all its phenomena. 
 
 The next explorer, Baker, believed as honestly as Speko 
 and Grant that in the Lake Elver Albert he had a second 
 source of the Nile to that of Speke. He came further up 
 the Nile than any other in modern times, but turned when 
 between six hundred and seven hundred miles short of the 
 Haput Nili. He is now employed in a more noble work 
 than the discovery of the Nile sources ; and if, as all must 
 earnestly wish, he succeeds in suppressing the Nile slave- 
 trade, the boon he will bestow on humanity will be of far 
 higher value than all my sources together. 
 
 When intelligent men like these and Bruce have been 
 mistaken, I have naturally felt anxious that no one should 
 come after me and find sources south of mine, which I now 
 think can only be- possible by water running up the south- 
 ern slope of the watershed. 
 
 But all that can in modern times and in common modesty 
 be fairly claimed is the rediscoveiy of what had been sunk 
 into oblivion, like the circumnavigation of Africa by the 
 Phoenician admirals of one of the Pharaohs about b. o. 
 €00. He was not believed, because he reported that in 
 passing round Libya he had the sun on his right hand. 
 This to us, who have gone round the Cape from east to west 
 stamps his tale as genuine. 
 
 The predecessors of Ptolemy probably gained their in- 
 formation from men who visited this very region, for in the 
 second century of our era he gave in substance what we 
 BOW find to be genuine geography. 
 
 The springs of the Nile, rising in ten degrees to twelve 
 degrees south latitude, and their waters collecting into two 
 large lacustrine rivers, and other facts, could have been 
 learned only from primitive travellers or traders — the true 
 discoverers of what emperors, kings, philosophers, all the 
 great minds of antiquity longed to know, and longed in 
 vain. 
 
 In a letter of November 1870, now enclosed, I have tried 
 
553 GEOOBAFHIOAL RESULTS. 
 
 to give an idea of the difficulties encountered in following 
 up the central line of drainage through the country of the 
 cannibals, called Manyuema or Manyema. I found it a 
 year afterwards, where it was left. Other letters had made 
 no further progress to the coast ; in fact Manyema country 
 is an entirely new field, and nothing like postage exists, 
 nor can letters be sent to Ujiji except by large trading 
 parties who have spent two or three months in Manyema. 
 
 The geographical results of four arduous trips in differ- 
 ent directions in the Manyema country, are briefly as 
 follows : — The great river, Webb's Lualaba, in the centra 
 of the Nile valley, makes a great bend to the west, soon 
 after leaving Lake Moero, of at least one hundred and 
 eighty miles ; then turning to the north for some distance, 
 it makes another large sweep we^t of about one hundred 
 and twenty miles, in the course of which about thirty 
 miles of southing are made ; it then draws round to north- 
 east, receives the Lomani, or Looki, a large river which 
 flows through Lake Lincoln. After the union a large lake 
 is formed, with many inhabited islands in it; but this has 
 still to be explored. It is the fourth large lake in the cen- 
 tral line of drainage, and cannot be lake Albert ; for assum- 
 ing Speke's longitude of Ujiji to be pretty correct, and my 
 reckoning not enormously wrong, the great central lacus- 
 trine river is about five degrees west of Upper and Lower 
 Tanganyika. 
 
 The mean of many barometric and boiling point obser- 
 vations made Upper Tanganyika 2880 feet high. Respect 
 for Speke's memory made me hazard the conjecture that ho 
 found it to be nearly the same, but from the habit of writ- 
 ing the Annum Domini a mere slip of the pen made him 
 eay 1844 feet; but I have more confidence in the baro- 
 meters then in the boiling points, and they make Tangan- 
 yika over 3000 feet, and the lower part of Central Lualaba 
 one inch lower, or about the altitude ascribed to Gondokoro. 
 
 Beyond the fourth lake the water passes, it is said, into 
 large reedy lakes, and is in all probability Petherick'* 
 
A KAOB OF CANNIBALS. 553 
 
 branch — the main stream of the Nile — in distinction from 
 the smaller eastern arm which Speke, Grant and Baker took 
 to be the river of Egypt. 
 
 The Manyema could give no information about their 
 country, because they never travel. Blood fends often 
 prevent them from visiting villages three or four miles off, 
 and many at a distance of about thirty miles did not know 
 the great river, although named to them. No trader had 
 gone so far as I had, and their people cared only for ivory. 
 
 In my attempts to penetrate further and further I had 
 but little hopes of ultimate success, for the great amount 
 of westing led to a continued effort to suspend the judg- 
 ment, lest, after all, I might be exploring the Congo in- 
 stead of the Nile, and it was only after the two great wcst- 
 ern drains fell into the central main, and left but the two 
 great lacustrine rivers of Ptolemy, that I felt pretty sure 
 of being on the right track. 
 
 The great bends west probably form one side of the great 
 rivers above that geographical loop, the other side being 
 Upper Tanganyika and the Lake River Albert. A water- 
 fall is reported to exist between Tanganyika and Albert 
 Nyanza, but I could not go to it ; nor have I seen the con- 
 necting link between the two — the upper side of the loop — 
 though I believe it exists. 
 
 The Manyema are certainly cannibals, but it was long 
 ere I could get evidence more positive than would have led 
 a Scotch jury to give a verdict of " Not proven." They 
 eat only enemies killed in war ; they seem as if instigated 
 by revenge in their man-eating orgies, and on these occa- 
 sions they do not like a stranger to see them. I offered a 
 large reward in vain to any one who would call me to wit- 
 ness a cannibal feast. Some intelligent men have told me 
 that the meat is not nice, and made tliem dream of the 
 dead. The women never partake, and I am glad of it, for 
 many of them, far down Lualaba, are very pretty ; they 
 bathe three or four times a day, and are expert divers for 
 oysters. 
 47 
 
654 WORKHES IN IRON AND COPPEE. 
 
 Markets are held at stated times, and the women attend 
 them in lai-ge numbers, dressed in their best. They are 
 light-colored, have straight noses, finely formed heads, 
 email hands and feet, and perfect forms j they are keen 
 traders, and look on the market as a great institution ; to 
 haggle, and joke, and laugh, and cheat, seem the enjoy- 
 ments of life. The population, especially west of the 
 river, is prodigiously large. 
 
 Near Lomani, the Bakuss, or Bakoons, cultivate coffee, 
 and drink it highly scented with vanilla. Food of all 
 kinds is extremely abundant and cheap. The men smelt 
 iron from the black oxide ore, and are very good smiths ; 
 they also smelt copper from the ore, and make large orna- 
 mento very cheaply. They are generally fine, tall, strap- 
 ping fellows, far superior to the Zanzibar slaves, and noth- 
 ing of the West Coast negro, from whom our ideas of 
 Africans are chiefly derived, appears among them ; no 
 prognathous jaws, barn-door mouth, nor lark heels are seen. 
 Their defects arise from absolute ignorance of all the 
 world ; besides, strangers never appeared among them be- 
 fore. The terror that guns inspire generally among the 
 Manyema, seems to arise among the Bakuss, from an idea 
 that they are supernatural. The effect of a gunshot on a 
 goat was shown, in order to convince them that the traders 
 had power, and that the instruments they carried were not, 
 as they imagined, the mere insignia of chieftainship ; they 
 looked up to the skies, and offered to bring ivory to pur- 
 chase the charm by which lightning was drawn down ; and 
 afterwards, when the traders tried to force a passage which 
 was refused, they darted aside on seeing Banyamwezi's 
 followers place the arrows in the bow-strings, but stood in 
 mute amazement while the guns mowed them down in great 
 numbers. They use long spears in the thick vegetation of 
 their country, with great dexterity, and they have told me 
 frankly, what was self-evident, that but for the firearms, 
 not one of the Zanzibar slaves or half castee would ever 
 leave the country. 
 

 
 M 
 
 4 
 
 *^ 
 
 
 *V 
 
 
 
 
 
WANT OP POLITICAL COHESION. 565 
 
 There is not a single great chief in all Manyema. No 
 matter what name the different divisions of people bear — 
 Manj^ema, Balegga, Babire, Bazire, Bakooa — there is no 
 political cohesion ; not one king or kingdom. Each man 
 Is independent of every otlier. The people are industrious, 
 and most of them cultivate the soil largely. We found 
 them everywhere very honest. When detained at Bam- 
 barre, we had to send our goats and fowls to the Manyema 
 villages, to prevent them being all stolen by the Zanzibar 
 ■laves. The slave owners had to do the same. 
 
 Manyema land is the only counti-y in Central Africa I 
 have seen where cotton is not cultivated, spun, and woven. 
 The clothing is that known in Madagascar, as "lambas," 
 or grass cloth, made from the leaves of the " Muale " 
 palm. 
 
 They call the good spirit above "Ngulu," or the Great 
 One, and the spirit of evil, who resides in the deep, " Mu- 
 lambu." A hot fountain near Bambarre is supposed to be- 
 long to this being, the author of death by drowning and 
 other misfortunes. Yours, etc., 
 
 David Livingstone, 
 Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. 
 
 Dr. Livingstone to Earl Qranville. 
 
 Ujiji, Nov. It, 1871. 
 Mt Loan : — In my letter dated Bambarre, November, 
 1870, now enclosed, I stated my grave suspicioas that a 
 packet of about forty letters — despatches, copies of all the 
 astronomical observations from the coast onwards, and 
 sketch maps on tracing paper, intended to con\ ey a clear 
 idea of all the discoveries up to the time of arrival at 
 Ujiji — would be destroyed. It was delivered to the agent 
 here of the Governor of TJnj'anyembe, and I paid him in 
 full all he demanded to transmit it to Syde bin Salem 
 Buraschid, the so-called Governor, who is merely a trade 
 agent of certain Banians ®f Zanzibar, and a person who is 
 
556 AN AFRICAN POLITICAL KINQ. 
 
 reputed dishonest by all. As an agent, he pilfers from his 
 employers, be they Banians or Arabs ; as a Governor, ex- 
 pected to exercise the ofBce of a magistrate, he dispenses 
 justice to him who pays most ; and as the subject of a Sul- 
 tan, who entrusted him because he had no power on the 
 mainland to supersede hiin, he robs his superior shame- 
 lessly. No Arab or native ever utters a good word for 
 iini, but all detest him for his injustice. 
 
 The following narrative requires it to be known that his 
 brother, All bin Salem Buraschid, is equally notorious for 
 iinblushing dishonesty. All Arabs and Europeans who 
 have had dealings with either, speak in unmeasured terms 
 of their fraud and duplicity. The brothers are emploj-ed 
 in trade, chiefly by Ludha Damji, the richest Banian in 
 Zanzibar. 
 
 It is well known that the slave trade in this country is 
 carried on almost entirely with his money, and that of 
 other Banian British subjects. The Banians advance the 
 goods required, and the Arabs proceed inland as their 
 agents, perform the trading, or rather murdering, and when 
 slaves and ivory are brought to the coast, the Arabs sell 
 the slaves. The Banians pocket the price, and adroitly 
 let the odium rest on their agents. As a rule, no travelling 
 Arab has money enougli to undertake an inland journej^ 
 Those who have become rich imitate the Banians, and send 
 their indigent countrymen and slaves to trade for them. 
 The Banians could scarcely carry on their system of trade, 
 were they n( t in possession of the Custom House, and had 
 power to seiie all tlie goods that pass through it to pay 
 themselves for debts. The so-called Governors are ap- 
 pointed on i.iieir recommendation, and become mere trade 
 agents. W ;en the Arabs in the interior are assaulted by 
 the natives, they never unite under a Governor as a leader, 
 for they know that defending them, or concerting means 
 for their safety, is no part of his duty. The Arabs are 
 nearly all in debt to the Banians, and the Banian slaves 
 we emploj-ed in ferreting out every trade transaction of 
 
THE DANQEllS OF THE AraiCAN POST-OFHCE. 557 
 
 the debtors, aud when watched by Governor's slaves and 
 Custom House otticers, it is scarcely- possible for even this 
 cunning, deceitful race to escape being fleeced. To avoid 
 this, many surrender all their ivory to their Banian credi- 
 tors, and are allowed to keep or sell the slaves as their 
 share of the profits. It will readily be perceived that thtj 
 prospect of in any way coming under the power of iSauiau 
 British subjects at Zanzibar is very far from reassuring. 
 
 The packet above referred to was never more heard of, 
 but a man called Musa Kamaah had been emplo^'ed to 
 drive some buffaloes for me from the coast, and on leaving 
 TJjiji the same day the packet was delivered for transmis- 
 sion, I gave him a short letter, dated May, 1869, which he 
 concealed on his person, knowing that on its production 
 his wages depended. He had been a spectator of the plun- 
 dering of my goods by the Governor's slave, Saloom, aud 
 received a share to hold his peace. He was detained for 
 months at Unyanyembe by the Governor, and even sent 
 back to TJjiji on his private business, he being ignorant all 
 the while that Kamaah possessed the secreted letter. It 
 was the only document of more than forty that reached 
 Zanzibar. It made known in some measure my wants, but 
 my checks on Bombay for money were ih the lost packet, 
 and Ludta, the rich Banian, was employed to furnish on 
 credit all the goods and advances of pay required in the 
 expedition. Ludha is, perhaps, the best of all the Banians 
 of Zanzibar, but he applied to Ali bin Salem, the brother 
 of his agent, the Governor, to furijish two head men to 
 conduct the goods and men to TJjiji, and beyond it, 
 wherever I might be there reported to be. He reconv 
 mended Shereef Bosher and Awathe as first and second 
 conductors of the caravan. Shereef, the Governor, and 
 the Governor's brother, being "birds of one feather," the 
 consequences might have been foretold. No sooner did 
 Shereef obtain command than he went to one Muhamed 
 Nassur, a Zanzibar-born Banian, or Hindoo, and he ad- 
 vanced twenty-five boxes of soap and eight cases of brandy 
 
 4.* 
 
558 AFRICAN TRADE. 
 
 for trade. He then went to Bagomoyo, on the mainlaad^ 
 and received from two Banians there, whose names are to 
 be unknown, quantities of opium and gunpowder, which, 
 ■with the soap and brandy, were to be retailed by Shereef 
 on the journey. In the Bagomoyo Banian's house, Shereef 
 broke the soap boxes and stowed the contents and the 
 opium in my bales of calico, in order that the pagazi or 
 carriers paid by me should carry them. Other pagazi were 
 employed to carry the cases of brandy and kegs of gun- 
 powder, and paid with my cloth. Henceforth, all the ex- 
 penses of the journey were defrayed out of my property; 
 and while retailing the barter goods of his Banian accom- 
 plices, he was in no hurry to relieve my wants, but spent 
 fourteen months between the coast and TJjiji, a distance 
 which could easily have been accomplished in three. 
 Making every allowance for detention by sickness in the 
 party, and by sending back for men to replace the first 
 pagazi, who perished by cholera, the delays were quite 
 shameless. Two months at one spot, two months at 
 another place, and two months at a third, without reason, 
 except desire to retail his brandy, etc., which some simple 
 people think Moslems never drink ; but he was able to send 
 back from Unyanyembe over £600 worth of ivory, the 
 pagazi again paid from ray stores. He then ran riot with 
 the supplies, all the way purchasing the most expensive 
 food for himself, his slaves, and his women, the country 
 afforded. When he reached Ujiji, his retail trade for the 
 Banians and himself was finished, ^nd in defiance of his 
 engagement to follow wherever I led, and men from a camp 
 eight days beyond Bambarre went to Ujiji and reported to 
 him that I was near and waiting for him, he refused their 
 invitations to return with them. 
 
 The Banians, who advanced their goods for retail by 
 Shereef, had, in fact, taken advantage of the notorious 
 East African Moslem duplicity to interpose their own 
 trade. Speculation between the two Government oflScers, 
 and almost within the shadow of the CoosuUte, supplants 
 
THE SUPPLIES WASTED. 55) 
 
 Dr. Kirk's attempt to aid' me, by a fraudulent conversion 
 of the help expedition to the gratification of their own 
 greed. Shereef was their ready tool ; and having at Ujiji 
 finished the Banian trade, he acted as if he had forgotten 
 having ever been employed by any one else. Here the 
 drunken half caste Moslem tailor lay intoxicated at times 
 for a whole month ; the drink — palm toddy and tombe — all 
 bought with my beads, of course. 
 
 Awathe, the other head man, was a spectator of all the 
 robbery from the coast onwards, and never opened his 
 mouth in remonstrance, or in sending notice to the Consul. 
 He had carefully concealed an infirmity when engaged, 
 which rendered him quite incapable of performing a single 
 duty for me, and he now asserts, like the Johanna de- 
 serters, that he ought to be paid all his wages in full. I 
 shall narrate below how seven of the Banian slaves bought 
 by Shereef and Awathe imitated their leaders and refused 
 to go forward, and ultimately, by falsehood and cowardice, 
 forced me to return between four and five hundred miles. 
 But here I may mention how Shereef finished up his ser- 
 vices. . He wrote to his friend, the Governor of TJnyan- 
 yembe, for permission to sell the debris of my goods, " be- 
 cause," said he, " I sent slaves to Manj^ema to search for 
 the Doctor, but they returned and said he was dead." He 
 also divined on the Koran, and it told the same tale. 
 
 It is scarcely necessary to add that he never sent slaves 
 in search of me, and from the people above mentioned, who 
 returned from a camp in front of Bambarre, he learned that 
 I was alive and well. So, on his own authority and that 
 of the Koran, he sold off the remaining goods at merely 
 nominal prices, to his friends, for ivory and slaves for him- 
 self, and I lately returned to find myself destitute of every- 
 thing except a very few articles of barter, which I took the 
 precaution to leave here, in case of extreme need. 
 
 I have stated the case to Dr. Kirk, acting political agent 
 and Consul at Zanzibar, and claim, as simple justice, that 
 the Banians, who are rich English subjects, should, tor 
 
660 ZANZIBAR INTEREST. 
 
 stepping in between me and thesupplies sent, be compelled 
 to refund the entire expenses of the frustrated expedition, 
 and all the high interest — twenty or twenty-five per cent, 
 thereon — set down against me in Ludha's books ; if not 
 also the wages of my people and personal expenses for two 
 years, the time during which, by tlieir surreptitious agent, 
 Shereef, my servants and self were prevented from exe- 
 cuting our regular duty. 
 
 The late Sultan, Seyed Majid, compelled the Arab who 
 connived at the plunder of all the Baron Van der Decken's 
 goods in a vain attempt to reach Lake Nyassa, to refund 
 the whole. It is inconceivable that the dragoman and other 
 paid servants of the Consulate were ignorant of the fraud 
 practised by the Banians on Dr. Kirk and me. 
 
 All the Banians and Banian slaves were perfectly well 
 aware of Muhamed Nassur's complicity. The villany of 
 saddling on me all the expenses of their retail venture of 
 soap, brandy, opium, and gunpowder, ,was perpetrated in 
 open day, and could not escape the notice of the paid 
 agents of the Consul; but how this matter was concealed 
 from him, and also the dishonest characters of Syed bin 
 Ali Buraschid and Shereef, it is difficult to conceive. Tlie 
 oft repeated asseveration of Shereef, that he acted through- 
 out on the advice of Ludha, may have a ray of truth in it. 
 But a little gentle pressure on Syed Burghash. the present 
 Sultan, will probably insure the punishment of Shereef, 
 although it is also highly probable that he will take refuge 
 near the Governor of Unyanyembe till the affair blows 
 over. If the rich Banian English subjects be compelled to 
 refund, this alone will deter them from again plundering 
 the servants of a Government which goes to great expense 
 for their protection. 
 
 I will now proceed to narrate, in as few words as possi- 
 ble, how I have been baffled by the Banian slaves sent by 
 Ludha, instead of men. They agreed to go to XJjiji, and 
 having there ascertained where I was to be found, were to 
 follow me as boatmen, carriers, woodmen, or in every cap»- 
 
CURE FOR ULCERS. 561 
 
 city required, witliout reference to the customs of other 
 expeditions. Each, on being engaged, received an advance 
 of $30, and a promise of $5 a month afterwards. This 
 was double (to Zanzibar) freemen's pay. They had much 
 Bicltness near the coast, and five died of cliolera. While 
 under Shereef and Awathe' they cannot be blamed for fol- 
 lowing their worthless leaders ; these leaders remained at 
 Ujiji, and Shereef 's three slaves and his women did the 
 same. After two months' delay there, seven Banian slaves 
 came along with the men returning past Bambarre, as 
 mentioned above. They came on the 4th of February, 
 ISYl, having left Zanzibar in October, 1869. I had been 
 laid up at Bambarre, l)y ii-ritable eating ulcers on both 
 feet, which prevented me from setting a foot on the ground 
 from August, 1870, to the end of the year. A piece of 
 malachite, rubbed down with water on a stone, was the only 
 remedy that had anj' effect ; I had no medicine ; some in 
 a box had been unaccountably detained by the Governor of 
 TJnyanj'embe since 1868, though I sent for it twice, and de- 
 livered calico to prepay the carriers. I have been unchari- 
 table enough to suspect that the worthy man wishes to fall 
 heir to my two guns in the same box. Shereef sent by the 
 slaves a few coarse ■ beads, evidently exchanged for my 
 beautiful and dear ones, a little calico, and, in great mercy, 
 some of my coffee and sugar. The slaves came without 
 loads, except my tent, which was so full of holes that it 
 looked as if riddled witii small shot. I never used it once. 
 They had been sixteen months on the way from Zanzibar, 
 instead of three, and now, like their head men, refused to 
 go any further. They swore so positively that the Consul 
 had told them to force me back, and on no account to go 
 forward, that I actually looked again at their engagement, 
 to be sure my eyes had not deceived me. Fear alone made 
 them consent to go, but had I not been aided by Muhamed 
 Bogharib, they would have gained their point by sheer 
 brazen-faced falsehood. I might then have gone back and 
 deposed Shereef and Awathe, but this would have required 
 
862 AN AFRICAN CEREMONY. 
 
 five or six months, and in that time, or perhaps less timje, 
 at least, I had good reason to hope that the exploration 
 would be finished, and my return would be up Albert Lake 
 and Tanganyika, instead of the dreary part of Manyema 
 and Guba, which I knew already perfectly. The desire to 
 finish the geograpical part of my work was, and is, most 
 intense ever3'^ time my family comes into my mind. I also 
 hoped that, as usual, ere long I should gain influence over 
 my attendants, but I never had experience with Banian 
 Moslem slaves before, who had imbibed little of the Mot 
 hammedan religion but its fulsome pride, and whose previ- 
 ous employment had been browbeating Arab debtors, some- 
 what like the lowest class of our sheriff officers. 
 
 As we went across the second great bend of the Lualaba, 
 they showed themselves to be all accomplished cowards, in 
 constant dread of being killed and eaten by the Manj'ema. 
 Failing to induce me to spend all the goods and return, 
 they refused to go be^'ond a point far down the Lualaba, 
 where I was almost in sight of the end towards which I 
 strained. They now tried to stop further progress by 
 falsehood, and they found at the camp of Ujijian and main- 
 land Arabs, a number of willing helpers to propagate the 
 slander " that I wanted neither ivory nor slaves, but a 
 canoe, to kill Manyema." Can it be wondered at that 
 people who had never seen strangers before, or even heard 
 of white men, believed them? By this slander, and the 
 ceremony of mixing blood with the head men, the main- 
 land and Ujijian Arabs secured nine canoes, while I could 
 not purchase one. But four days below this part narrows 
 occur, in which the mighty river is compressed by rocks, 
 which jut in, not opposite to each other, but alternately- ; 
 and the water rushing round the promontories, forms ter- 
 rible whirlpools, which overturned one of the canoes, and 
 so terrified the whole party that b}' deceit preceded me, 
 that they returned without ever thinking of dragging the 
 canoes past the difficulty. This I should have done to gain 
 ttie confluence of the Lomame, some fifty milea below, and 
 
THE EXPEDITION RETURNS. 563 
 
 thence ascend through Lake Lincoln to the ancient foun- 
 tains beyond the copper mines of Katauga, and this would 
 nearly finish my geographical work. But it was so proba- 
 ble that the dyke which forms the narrows would be pro- 
 longed across the country into Lomame, that I resolved to 
 turn towards this great river considerably above the nar- 
 rows, and where the distance between Lualaba and Lomame 
 is about eighty miles. 
 
 A friend, named Dugumbe, was reported to be coming 
 from Ujiji, with a caravan of two hundred guns and nine 
 undertraders, with their people. The Banian slaves refused 
 duty three times, and the sole reason they alleged for their 
 mutiny was fear of going where "there were no Moslems." 
 The loss of all their wages was a matter of no importance 
 to any one except their masters at Zanzibar. As an Eng- 
 lishman, they knew I would not beat or chain them, and 
 two of them frankly avowed that all they needed for obedi- 
 ence was a free man to thrash them. The slave traders all 
 sympathized with them, for they hated my being present 
 to witness their atrocities. The sources of the Nile they 
 knew to be a sham ; to reveal their slaving was my true 
 object, and all dread being " written against." I, therefore, 
 waited three months for Dugumbe, who appeared to be a 
 gentleman, and offered 4000 rupees, or £400, for ten men 
 and a canoe on Lomame, and afterwards all the goods I 
 believed I had at TJjiji, to enable me to finish what I had to 
 do without the Banian slaves. His first w^ords to me were, 
 " Why, your own slaves are your greatest enemies. I hear 
 everj'where how thej'' have baffled you." He agreed to my 
 proposition, but required a few da^'s to consult his asso- 
 ciates. 
 
 Two days afterwards, or on the 13th of June, a massacre 
 was perpetrated which filled me with such intolerable loath- 
 ing that I resolved to yield to the Banian slaves, return to 
 Ujiji, get men from the coast, and try to finish the rest of 
 my work by going outside the area of Ujijian bloodshed, 
 instead of vainly trying from its interior outwards. 
 
564 A trader's massacre. 
 
 Dugumbe's people built their huts on the right bank of 
 the Lualaba, at a market place called Nyanwe. On hearing 
 that the head slave of a trader at Ujiji had, in order to get 
 canoes cheap, mixed blood with the head men of the 
 Bagenya on the left bank, they were disgusted with his 
 assurance, and resolved to punish him and make an impres- 
 sion in the country in favor of their own greatness, by an 
 assault on the market people, and on all the Bagenya who 
 had dared to make friendship with anybody but them- 
 selves. Tagamolo, the principal undertrader of Dugumbe's 
 party, was the perpetrator. The market was attended 
 every fourth day by between two and three thousand 
 people. It was held on a long slope of land which, down at 
 the river, ended in a creek capable of containing fifty and 
 sixty large canoes. The majority of the market people 
 were women, many of them very pretty. The people west 
 of the river brought fish, salt, pepper, oil, grass cloth, iron, 
 fowls, goats, sheep, pigs, in great numbers, to exchange 
 with those east of the river, for cassava, grain, potatoes, 
 and other farinaceous products. They have a strong sense 
 of natural justice, and all unite in forcing each other to 
 fair dealing. At first my presence made them all afraid, 
 but wishing to gain their confidence, which my enemies 
 tried to undermine or prevent, I went among them fre- 
 quently, and when they saw no harm in nie, became very 
 gracious ; the bargaining was the finest acting I ever saw. 
 I understood but few of the words that flew off the glib 
 tongues of the women, but their gestures spoke plainlj'. I 
 took sketches of the fifteen varieties of fish brought in, to 
 compare them with those of the Nile, further down, and all 
 were eager to tell me their names. But on the date re- 
 ferred to, I had left the market only a minute or two, when 
 three men, whom I had seen with guns, and felt inclined to 
 reprove them for bringing them into the market place, but 
 had refrained by attributing it to ignorance in new comers, 
 began to fire into the dense crowd around them. Another 
 party, down at the. canoes, rained their balls on the panic* 
 

VILLAGES iN FLAMES. 565 
 
 struck multitude that rushed into these vessels. All threw 
 away their goods, the men forgot their paddles, the canoes 
 were jammed in tlie creelc and could not be got out fast 
 enough ; so, many men and women sprang into the water. 
 The women of tlie left bank are expert divers for oysters, 
 and a long line of lieads showed a crowd striking out for 
 an island a mile off; to gain it they had to turn the left 
 shoulder against a current of between a mile and a half to 
 two miles an hour. Had they gone diagonally with the 
 current, though that would have been three miles, many 
 would have gained the shore. It was horrible to see one 
 head after another disappear, some calmly, others throwing 
 their arms high up towards the Great Father of all, and 
 going down. Some of the men, who got canoes out of the 
 crowd, paddled quick, with hands and arms, to help their 
 friends ; three took - people in till they all sank together. 
 One man had clearly lost his head, for he paddled a canoe, 
 which would have held fifty people, straight up stream, no- 
 where. The Arabs estimated the loss at between four and 
 five hundred souls. Dugumbe sent out some of his men in 
 one of thirtj' canoes which the owners in their fright could 
 not extricate, to save the sinking. One lady refused to be 
 taken on board, because she thought she was to be made a 
 slave ; but he rescued twenty-one, and of his own accord 
 sent them home next daj'. Many escaped and came to me, 
 and were restored to their friends. When the firing began 
 on the terror-stricken crowd at the canoes, Tagamolo's 
 band began their assault on the people on the west of the 
 river, and continued the fire all day. I counted seventeen 
 villages in flames, and next day six. Dugumbe's powet 
 over the underlings is limited, but he ordered them to ceasa 
 shooting. Those in the market were so reckless, they shot 
 two of their own number. Tagamolo's crew came back 
 next day, in canoes, shouting and firing off their guns as 
 if believing that they were worthy of i-enown. 
 
 Next day about twenty head men fled from the west 
 bank and came to my house. There was no occasion now 
 4,8 
 
566 DYING UPON one's FEET. 
 
 to tell them that the English had no desire for human 
 blood. They begged hard that I should go over with them, 
 and settle with them, and arrange where the new dwellings 
 of each should be. I was so ashamed of the bloody Mos- 
 lem companj' in which I found myself, that I was nnable 
 to look at the Manyema. I confessed my grief and shame, 
 and was entreated, if I mnst go, not to leave them now. 
 Dugumbe spoke kindly to tliem, and would protect them 
 as well as he could against liis own people ; but when I 
 went to Tagamolo, to ask back the wives and daughters of 
 some of the head men, he always ran oifand hid himself. 
 
 Tliis massacre was the most terrible scene I ever savv. I 
 cannot describe my feelings, and am tliankfnl that I did 
 not give way to them, but liy Dugnmbe's advice, avoided a 
 bloody feud with men wlio, for the time, seemed turned 
 into demons. The whole transaction was the more deplora- 
 ble, inasmuch as we have always heard from the Manyema, 
 that though the men of the districts may be engaged in 
 actual hostilities, the women pass from one market place to 
 another with their wares, and were never known to be 
 molested. The change has come only with these alien blood- 
 hounds, and all the bloodshed has taken place in order that 
 captives might be seized whore it could be done without 
 danger, and in order that the slaving privileges of a jietty 
 Sultan should produce abundant fruit. 
 
 Heartsore and greatly' depressed in spirits by the many 
 instances of " man's inhumanity to man," I had unwillingly 
 seen, I commenced the long, weary tramp to Ujiji, with the 
 blazing sun right overhead. The mind acted on the body, 
 and it is no overstatement to say that almost every step of. 
 between four and five hundred miles was in pain. I felt as 
 if dying on my feet, and I came very near to death in a 
 more summary way. It is within the area of bloodshed that 
 danger alone occurs. I could not induce my Moslem slaves, 
 to venture outside that area or splicrc. They knew better 
 than I did : " Was Mohammed not the greatest of all, and 
 their prophet ? " 
 
AN IVOEY SPECULATION. 561 
 
 About midway back to Bambarre we came to villages 
 where I had formerly seen the young men compelled to 
 carry a trader's ivory. When I came on the scene, the 
 young men had laid down the tusks and said, " Now we 
 have helped you so far without pay, let the men of other 
 villages do as much." "No, no! take up the ivory;" and 
 take it up they did, only to go a little way and cast it into 
 the dense vegetation on each side of the path we after- 
 wards knew so well. When the trader reached his next 
 stage, ho sent back his men to demand the " stolen " ivory, 
 and when the elders denied the theft they were fired upon, 
 and five were killed, eleven women and children captured, 
 and also twenty-five goats. The remaining elders then 
 liilked the matter over, and the young men pointed out 
 t he ivory, and carried it twenty-two miles after the trader, 
 lie chose to say that three of the tusks were missing, and 
 carried away all the souls and goats he had captured. 
 They now turned to the only resource they knew, and when 
 Dugumbe passed, waylaid and killed one of his people. 
 On our return, we passed another camp of Ujijian traders, 
 and they begged me to allow their men to join my party. 
 These included seventeen men of Manyema, who had volun- 
 teered to carry ivory to Ujiji and goods back again. These 
 were the very first of the Manyema who had, in modern 
 times, gone fifty miles from their birthplaces. As all the 
 Arabs had been enjoined by Sayed Majid, the late Sultan, 
 to show me all the kindness in their power, I could not de- 
 cline their request. My party was increased to eighty, and 
 a long line of men bearing elephants' tusks- gave us all the 
 appearance of traders. The only cloth I had left some 
 months before consisted of two red blankets, which were 
 converted into a glaring dress, unbecoming enough, but. 
 there were no Europeans to see it. The maltreated men, 
 now burning for revenge, remembered the dress, and very 
 naturally tried to kill the man who had murdered their 
 relations. They would hold no parley. We had to pass 
 through five hours of forest, with vegetation so dense, that 
 
668 A DANGEROUS PAS8. 
 
 by stooping down and peering towards tiie sun, we could 
 at times only see a shadow moving, and a slight rustle in 
 the rank vegetation was a spear thrown from the shadow 
 of an infuriated man. Our people in front peered into 
 every little opening in the dense thicket before they would 
 venture past it ; this .detained the rear, and two persons 
 lear me were slain. A large spear lunged past, close be- 
 aind ; another missed me by about a foot in front. Coming 
 to a part of the forest of about a hundred yards cleared 
 for cultivation, I observed that fire had been applied to one 
 of the gigantic trees, made still higher by growing on an 
 ant-hill, twenty or more feet high. Hearing the crack that 
 told the fire had eaten through, I felt that there was no 
 danger, it looked so far away, till it appeared coming right 
 down toward me. I ran a few paces back, and it came to 
 the ground only one yard off, broke in several lengths, and 
 covered me with a cloud of dust. My attendants ran back, 
 exclaiming : " Peace ! peace ! you will finish j'our work in 
 ■?pitc of all these people, and in spite of everything ! " I, 
 ;oo, took it as an omen of good, that I had three narrow 
 escapes from death in one day. 
 
 The Manyema are expert in throwing the spear, and as I 
 had a glance of him whose spear missed by less than an 
 inch behind, and he was not ten yards off, I was saved 
 clearly by the good hand of the Almighty Preserver of 
 men. I can saj' this devoutly now, but in running the ter- 
 rible gauntlet for five weary hours among furies, all eager 
 to signalize themselves by slaying one they sincerely be- 
 lieved to have been guilty of a horrid outrage, no elevated 
 sentiments entered the mind. The excitement gave way to 
 overpowering weariness, and I felt, as I suppose soldiers 
 do on the field of battle — not courageous, but perfectly in- 
 different whether I were killed or not. 
 
 On coming to the cleared plantation belonging to the 
 next group of villages, all lay down to rest, and I soon saw 
 their head man walking unarmed, in a stately manner, to- 
 ward ua. He had heard the vain firing of our men into the 
 
ANOTHER LETTER. 569 
 
 dense regetation, and came to inquire the cause. When he 
 had consulted his elders, he sent an oflfer to me in the even- 
 ing, to collect all his people, and if I lent him my people 
 who had guns, he would bring me ten goats instead of 
 three milch cows I had lost. I again explained the mistake 
 under which his next neighbors labored, and as he under- 
 stood the whole case, he was ready to admit that my join- 
 ing in his ancient feud would only make matters worse. 
 Indeed, my old Highland blood had been roused by the 
 wrongs which his foes had suffered, and all through I could 
 not help sympathizing with them, though I was the especial 
 object of their revenge. I have, etc., 
 
 David Livingstone, 
 Her Majesty's Consul, Inner Africa. 
 
 Dr. Livingstone to Earl Granville. 
 
 TJjiJi, Dec. \%th, 1871. 
 
 My Lord : — The dispatch of Lord Clarendon, dated 31st 
 of May, ISTO, came to this place on the 13th ult., and its 
 very kindly tone and sympathy afforded me a world of en- 
 couragement. Your Lordship will excuse me in saying 
 that with my gratitude there mingled sincere sorrow that 
 the personal friend who signed it was no more. 
 
 In the kind wish expressed for my return home I can 
 join most cordially ; indeed, I am seized with a sore long- 
 ing every time my family, now growing up, comes into my 
 mind ; but if I explain, you will not deem me unreasonable 
 in making one more effort to make a feasible finish of my 
 work. I know about six hundred miles of the long water- 
 shed of South Central Africa pretty fairly. From this tha 
 majority of the vast number of the springs of the Nile do 
 unquestionably arise and form great mains of drainage in 
 the Great Nile Valley, which begins in latitude ten to 
 twelve degrees south. But in the seventh hundred miles 
 four great fountains are reported, which are different from 
 all I hate seen in rising from the base of an earthen mound 
 
570 REMARKABLE POUNTAINS. 
 
 as full grown rushing springs, each of which at no great 
 distance off becomes a large river. I have heard of this 
 remarkable mound two hundred miles distant on the south- 
 west. Again tliree hundred miles distant on the south 
 Mr. Oswell and I heard that the Upper Zambesi or Lambai 
 rose at (this) one point. Then intelligent natives men- 
 tioned it one hundred and eight}' miles off on the east, and 
 again one hundred and fifty from it on the northeast, and 
 also in the Manj-ema country one hundred miles north- 
 northeast. Intelligent Arabs who have visited the mound 
 and fountains spoke of them as a subject of wonder, and 
 confirmed all my previous information. I cannot doubt 
 of their existence, and I liave even given names by anti- 
 cipation to the fountains whose rivers I know. 
 
 But on the next point, which if correct, gives these foun- 
 tains an historic interest, I speak with great diffidence, and 
 would fain apologize for mentioning, on the dim recollec- 
 tions of boyhood, and without a single book of reference, 
 to hazai-d the conjecture that these fountains rising to- 
 gether, and flowing two north into the Nile, and two south 
 to Inner Ethiopia, are probably the sources of the Nile 
 mentioned to Herodotus by tlie Secretarj' of Minerva in 
 the city of Sais in Egypt. The idea imparted by the words 
 of the ancient historian was that the waters of the sources 
 welled up in unfathomable fountains and then parted, halC 
 to Egypt and the other half to Inner Ethiopia. 
 
 The ancient traveller or trader who first brought the 
 report down to Egypt would scarcely be so precise as to 
 explain of waters that seem to issue from nearly one spot 
 flowed on to opposite slopes of the watershed. The north- 
 east fountain, Bartle Frere's, flows as the large river Lu- 
 fira into Komolondo, one of the four large lakes in Webb's 
 Lualaba. The centre line of drainage then, that on the 
 northwest of the mound, Young's (Sir Paraffin) fountain 
 flows through Lake Lincoln, and as the River Lomame 
 joins Webb's Lualaba before the fourth large lake is formed, 
 ©f which the outflow is said to be into Petherick's branch, 
 
SWINDLED BY SLAVES. 6T1 
 
 two certaialy flow north, and two as certainly flow south ; 
 for Palmerstone's fountain on the southwest is the source 
 of the Liambai or Upper Zambesi, and Oswell's fountain 
 on the southeast, is the Kafue, which far down joins the 
 same river ia " Inner Etliiopia." I advance the conjecture 
 merely for what it is worth, and not dogmatically. The 
 gentlemen who stay at home at ease may smile at my as- 
 surance in recalling the memories of boyhood in Central 
 Africa; but let these be the sources of the ancients or not, 
 it seems desirable to rediscover them, so that no one may 
 come afterwards and cut me out by a fresh batch of sources. 
 
 I am very unwilling to attach blame to any one, and I 
 can only ascribe it to ignorance at Zanzibar of our Govern- 
 ment being stringently opposed to its oflScers employing 
 slave-labor, that some five or six hundred pounds' worth 
 of my goods were entrusted to Ludha, a concealed slave- 
 trader, who again placed the supplies in the hands of slaves 
 under the two dishonest freemen, who, as I have described 
 in my letter of the 14th ult., caused me a loss of time and 
 ultimately of all the goods. 
 
 Again, £500 of goods— this being half of '£1000 kindly 
 sent by Her Majesty's Government to my aid — was, by 
 some strange hallucination, handed over to Ludha again, 
 and he again committed them to slaves and two freemen. 
 All lay feasting on my stores at Bagomoyo, on the mainland 
 opposite Zanzibar, from the latter part of October, 1870, 
 to the latter part of February, 18T1, and no one looked 
 near them. They came on to TJnyanyembe, a point from 
 twenty da^'s to a month east of this, and lay there till a 
 war, which broke out in July, gave them a good excuse to 
 continue there still. Ludha is a very polite and rich Banian, 
 but in this second bill he made a shameless overcharge of 
 $364. All the Banians and Arabs hate to see me in the 
 slave-mart and dread exposure. Here and in Manyema I 
 have got into the good graces of all the Arabs of position. 
 But the Banian hatred of our interference in the slave- 
 trade manifests itself in the low cunning of imbruing tha 
 
5T2 APPEARANCE OP STANLEY. 
 
 minds of the slaves sent with the idea that they are 
 not to follow me, but, in accordance with some fabulous 
 letter force me back. This they have propagated all through 
 the country, and reallj'- seem to believe it. My letters to 
 the coast having been so often destroyed, I had relinquished 
 hope of ever obtaining help from Zanzibar, and proposed 
 when I became stronger to work my way down to Mteza 
 or Baker for help and men. A vague rumor reached Ujiji 
 in the beginning of last month that an Englishman had comu 
 to IJnyanyembe with boats, horses, men and goods in 
 abundance. It was in vain to conjecture who this could 
 be ; and mj' eager inquiries were met by answers so con- 
 tradictory that I began to doubt if any stranger had come 
 at all. But one day, I cannot saj' which, for I was three 
 weeks too fa?t in my reckoning, my man Susicame dashing 
 up in great excitement, and gasped out, " An Englishman 
 coming ; see him ! " and off he ran to meet him. The 
 American flag at the head of the caravan told me the na- 
 tionality of the stranger. It was Henry M. Stanley, the 
 travelling corjrespondent of the New York Herald, sent hy 
 the son of the editor, James Gordon Bennett, Jr., at an 
 expense of £4000 to obtain correct information about mo 
 if living, and if dead to bring home my bones. The kind- 
 ness was extreme, and made my whole frame thrill with 
 excitement and gi-atitude. 
 
 I had been left nearly destitute by the moral idiot She- 
 reef selling off my goods for slaves and ivory for himself. 
 My condition was sufficiently forlorn, for I had but a very 
 few articles for barter left of what I had taken the pre- 
 caution to leave here, in case of extreme need. The strange 
 news Mr. Stanley had to tell to one for years out of com- 
 munication with the world was quite reviving. Appetite 
 returned, and in a week I began to feel strong. Having 
 men and goods, and information that search for an outlet 
 of the Tanganyika was desired by Sir Roderick Murchi- 
 •on, we went for a month's cruise down to its northern end. 
 
 This was a pleasure trip compared to the weary tramp- 
 
A FURTHER TRIP PROPOSED. 5TS 
 
 ing of all the rest of my work ; but an outflow we did not 
 find. 
 
 On returning, on the 13th current, Mr. Stanley received 
 a letter from the American consul at Zanzibar of 11th June 
 last, and Aden telegrams of European news up to the 29th 
 April. My mail was dated November, 1810, and would not 
 liave left the slaves had not Mr. Stanle}- accidentally seen 
 it and seized it for nie. What was done by the American 
 consul could have been done by the English consul, but 
 for the unaccountable propensity to employ slave-traders 
 and slaves. 
 
 Seeing no hope of ovuu the third £500, or last half of 
 the government £1000, being placed in other hands but 
 those of the polite Ludha, I have taken the libert}'' of re- 
 solving to return a full month eastward to secure the dregs 
 of my goods from the slaves there, and accept those that 
 Mr. Stanley offers, hire freemen at Unyanyembe with them, 
 and then return back to the watershed to finish the little 
 I have to do. 
 
 In going and returning from Unyanyembe I shall lose 
 three or four months. The ancient fountains will require 
 eight months more ; but in one year from this time, with 
 ordinary health, the geographical work will be done. 
 
 I am presuming that your Lordship will say : " If worth 
 doing at all, it is worth doing well." All my friends will 
 wish me to make a complete work of the sources of the 
 ancient river. In that wish, in spite of the strong desire 
 to go home, I join, believing that it is better to do so now 
 than afterwards in vain. 
 
 Trusting that your Lordship will kindly make allow- 
 ances for what, to some who do not know how hard I have 
 toiled to accomplish six-sevenths of the work may appear 
 obstinacy, I have, etc. 
 
 David Livingstone, 
 Her Majestj^'s Consul, Inner Africa. 
 
 P. S. — The mortality by small pox in this region is s« 
 
51i INTEODUCING VACOINATIOM. 
 
 enormous that I ventured to apply to Government for • 
 supply of vaccine virus to meet me on my return — by one 
 portion being sent in the Governor's mail-bag to the Cape, 
 and another portion bj' way of Bombay — all convenient 
 haste being enjoined. Many intelligent Arabs have ex- 
 pressed to me their willingness to use it. If I remember 
 rightly, Lady Mary W. Montagu brought the knowledge 
 of innoculation from Turkey. This race, though bigoted, 
 perhaps more than the Turks, may receive the superior 
 remedy ; and, if the}' do, a great boon will be conferred, 
 for very many thousands perish annually' and know no 
 preventive. The reason for m}' troubling j'ou is, I do not 
 know anj' of the conductors of vaccination in London, and 
 Professor Christison, of Edinburgh, who formerly put up 
 the virus in capillary tubes, may not now be alive. The 
 capillary tubes are the only means of preserving the sub- 
 stance fresh in this climate I have seen, aud if j'our Lord- 
 ship will kindly submit my request to vaccinators to send 
 these tubes charged with matter I shall be able at least to 
 make an effort to benefit this great population. 
 
 D. L 
 
 Dr. Livingstone to Earl Granville. 
 
 Unyantembb, near the Kazeh of Speke, 
 Feb. 20lh, 1812. 
 
 My Lord : — My letters to and from the coast have been 
 so frequently destroyed by those whose interest and cupi- 
 dity lead them to hate correspondence as likely to expose 
 their slaving, that I had nearlj' lost all heart to write, but 
 being assured that this packet will be taken safe home by 
 Mr. Stanley, I add a fifth letter to four already penned, the 
 pleasure of believing tiiat this will really come into' vour 
 Lordship's liands overpowering the consciousness of having 
 been much too prolix. 
 
 The subject to which I beg to draw your attention is the 
 part which the Banians of Zanzibar, who are protected 
 British subjects, play in carrying on the slave-trade ia 
 
THE BANIAN SLAVE TRADE, 576 
 
 Central Africa, especially in Manyema, the country west 
 of Ujiji ; togetlter -witli a proposition which I have very 
 much at heart — the possibility of encouraging t"he native 
 Christians of English settlements on the West Coast of 
 Africa, to remove by voluntary emigration to a healthy 
 spot on this side the Continent. 
 
 The Banian British subjects have been long and are now 
 the chief propagators of the Zanzibar slave-trade ; their 
 money, and often their muskets, gunpowder, balls, flints, 
 beads, brass wire and calico ate annually advanced to the 
 Arabs at enormous interest, for the murderous work of 
 slaving, of the nature of which every Banian is fully aware. 
 Having mixed much with the Arabs in the interior, I soon 
 learned the whole system that is called " butchec," or Ba- 
 nian trading is simply marauding and murdering by the 
 Arabs at the instigation and by the aid of our Indian fel- 
 fow-subjects. The cunning Indians secure nearly all the 
 profits of the caravans they send inland, and very adroitly 
 let the odium of slaving rest on their Arab agents. As a 
 rule, very few Arabs could proceed on a trading expedition 
 unless supplied by the Banians with arms, ammunition and 
 goods. Slaves are not bought in the countries to which 
 the Banian agents proceed — indeed it is a mistake to call 
 the system of Ujiji slave-" trade " at all; the captives are 
 not traded for, but murdered for, and the gangs that are 
 dragged coastwards to enrich the Banians are usually not 
 slaves, but captive free people. A Sultan anxious to do 
 justly rather than pocket head-money would proclaim them 
 all free as soon as they reached his territory. 
 
 Let me give an instance or two to illustrate the trade of 
 our Indian fellow-subjects. My friend Muhamed Bogharib 
 sent a large party of his people far down the great river 
 Lualaba to trade for ivory about the middle of 1871. H» 
 is one of the best of the traders, a native of Zanzibar, and 
 not one of the mainlanders, who are lower types of man. 
 The best men have, however, often the worst aittendanti 
 This party was headed by one Hassani, and he, with two 
 
576 THE VALUE OP SLAVES IN BKAOELETB, 
 
 other head men, advanced to the people of NyangWe twenty- 
 five copper bracelets to be paid for in ivory on their return. 
 The rings were worth about five shillings at TJjiji, and it 
 being well known that the Nyangvve people had no ivor}', 
 the advance has a mere trap ; for, on returning and de- 
 manding payment in ivory in vain, they began an assault 
 which continued for three days. All the villages of a large 
 district were robbed, some burned, many men killed, and 
 about one hundred and fifty captives secured. 
 
 On going subsequently into southern Manyema I met 
 the poorest of the above mentioned head men, who had 
 only been able to advance five of the twentj'-flve bracelets, 
 and he told me that he had bought ten tusks with part of 
 the captives ; and having received information at the vil- 
 lage where I found him about two more tusks, he was 
 waiting for eight other captives from Muhamed's camp to 
 purchase them. I had now got into terms of friendship 
 with all the respectable traders of that quarter, and they 
 gave information with unrestrained freedom ; and all I 
 state may be relied on. On asking Muhamed himself, after- 
 wards, near Ujiji, the proper name of Muhamed Nassur, 
 the Indian who conspired with Shei-eef to interfere his own 
 tr.ide speculation between Dr. Kirk and me, and defray all 
 his expenses out of my goods, he promptly replied, " This 
 Muhamed Nassur is the man from whom I borrowed all 
 the money and goods for this journey." 
 
 I will not refer to the horrid and senseless massacre 
 which I unwillingly witnessed at Nyangwe, in which the 
 Arabs themselves computed the loss of life at between three 
 hundred and four hundred souls. It pained me sorely to 
 let the mind dwell long enough on it to pen the short ac- 
 count I gave, but I mention it again to point out that the 
 chief perpetrator, Tagamolo, received all his guns and 
 gunpowder from Ludha Damji, the richest Banian and 
 chief slave-trader of Zanzibar. He has had the cunning 
 to conceal his actual participation in slaving, but there is 
 not an Arab in the country who would hesitate a moment 
 
THE MOTIVE FOR COMPLAINING. 5TT 
 
 to point out that, but for the money of Ludha Damji and 
 other Banians who borrow from him, slaving, especially in 
 these more distant countries, would instantly cease. It is 
 not to be overlooked that most other trades as well as slav- 
 ing are carried on by Banians ; the Custom House and re- 
 venue are entirely in their hands ; the so-called governors 
 are their trade agents ; Syde bin Salem Buraschid, the 
 thievish governor here, is merely a trade agent of Ludha, 
 and honesty having been no part of his qualifications for 
 the office, the most shameless transactions of other Banian 
 agents are smoothed over by him. A common way he has 
 of concealing crimes is to place delinquents in villages ad- 
 jacent to this, and when they are inquired for by the Sul- 
 tan he reports that they are sick. It was no secret that 
 all the Banians looked with disfavor on my explorations 
 and disclosures as likely to injure one great source oi 
 their wealth. Knowing this, it almost took away my breath 
 when I heard that the great but covert slave-trader Ludha 
 Damji had been requested to forward supplies and men to 
 me. This and similar applications must have appeared to 
 Ludha so ludicrous that he probably answered with his 
 tongue in his cheek. His help was all faithfullj- directed 
 towards securing raj"^ failure. I am extremely unwilling to 
 appear as if making a wail on my own account, or as if 
 trying to excite commiseration. I am greatly more elated 
 by the unexpected kindness of unknown friends and the 
 sympathy and the liberalitj' of Her Majesty's Government 
 than cast down by losses and obstacles. But I have a pur- 
 pose in view in mentioning mishaps. 
 
 Before leaving Zanzibar, in 1 866, 1 paid for and dispatched 
 a stock of goods to be placed in depot at Ujiji ; the Ban- 
 yamwezi porters, or pagazi, as usual brought them honestly 
 to this governor or Banian agent, the same who plundered 
 Burton and Speke pretty freely ; and he placed my goods 
 in charge of his own slave Musa bin Saloom, who, about 
 midway between this and Ujiji, stopped the caravan ten 
 days, while he plundered as much as be chose, and went 
 
5T8 TIMK AND MONEY LOST. 
 
 off to buy ivory for his owner Karague. Saloom naa been 
 kept out of the way ever since ; the dregs of the stores 
 left by this slave are the only supplies I have received 
 since 1866. Another stock of goods was despatched from 
 Zanzibar in 1868, but the whole was devoured at this place, 
 and the letters destroyed, so that I should know nothinji 
 about them. Another large supply, sent through Ludh* 
 and his slaves in 1869-70, came to TJjiji, and except a few 
 pounds of worthless beads out of seven hundred pounds 
 of fine dear beads, all were sold off for slaves and ivory 
 by the persons selected bj' Ludha Damji. I refer to these 
 •wholesale losses because, though well known to Ludha and 
 all the Banians, the statement was made in the House of 
 Lords (I suppose on the strength of Ludha's plausible 
 .fables) that all my wants had been supplied. 
 
 By coming back in a roundabout route of three hundred 
 miles from TJjiji I did find, two days ago, a good quantity 
 of supplies, the remains of what had been sent off from 
 Zanzibar sixteen month ago. Ludha had been again em- 
 ployed, and slaves he selected began by loitering at Bago- 
 moyo, opposite Zanzibar, for nearU' four months. A war 
 here, which is still going on, gave them a good excuse for 
 going no further. The head men were tTiieves, and had I 
 not retnrned and seized what remained, I should again 
 have lost all. All the Banian slaves who have been sent 
 by Ludha and other Banians, are full of the idea that they 
 were not to follow, but force me back. 
 
 I cannot say that I am altogether free from chagrin, in 
 view of the worry, thwarting, and baffling which the 
 Banians and their slaves have inflicted. Common traders 
 procure supplies of merchandise from the coast, and send 
 loads of ivory down by pagazi or carriers we employ, with- 
 out an3' loss. But the Banians and their agents are not 
 their enemies. I have lost more than two years in time, 
 have been burdened with eighteen hundred miles of tramp- 
 ing, and how much waste of monej' I cannot say, through 
 mj' affairs having been committed to Banians and slaves, 
 
TENACITY OF PURPOSE. 579 
 
 who ahe not men. I have adhered, in spite of losses, with 
 a sort of John Bullish tenacity to my task, and while bear- 
 ing misfortune in as manly a way as possible, it strikes me 
 that it is well that I have been brought face to face with 
 the Banian system that inflicts enormous evils on Central 
 Africa. Gentlemen in India, who see only the wealth 
 brought to Bombay and Cutch, and know that the religion 
 of the Banians does not allow them to harm a fly, very 
 naturally conclude that all the Cutchees maj' safely bo 
 entrusted with the possession of slaves. But I have been 
 forced to see that those who shrink from killing a flea or 
 musquito, are virtually the worst cannibals in all Africa 
 The Manj'ema cannibals, among whom I spent nearly two 
 j'ears, are innocents compared with our protected Banian 
 fellow subjects. By their Arab agents, they compass the 
 destruction of more human lives in one year than the 
 Manyema do for their flesh pots in ten ; and could the 
 Indian gentlemen, who oppose the anti-slave-trade policy 
 of the Foreign Office, but witness the horrid deeds done by 
 the Banian agents, they would be the foremost in decreeing 
 that every Cutcliee found guilty of direct or indirect 
 slaving should forthwith be shipped back to India, if not 
 to the Andaman islands. 
 
 The Banians, having complete possession of the Custom 
 House and revenue of Zanzibar, enjoy ample opportunity 
 to aid and conceal the slave trade and all fraudulent trans- 
 actions committed by their agents. It would be good 
 policy to recommend the Sultan, as he cannot trust his 
 Moslem subjects, to place his income from all sources in 
 the hands of an English or American merchant, of known 
 reputation and uprightness. He would be a check on the 
 slave trade, a beneflt to the Sultan, and an aid to lawful 
 commerce. 
 
 But by far the most beneficial measure that could be in- 
 troduced into Eastern Africa would be the moral element, 
 which has worked so beneficiallj' in suppressing the slave 
 trade around all the English settlements of the west coast. 
 
580 RELIGION AND MORALITY. 
 
 The Banians seem to have no religion worthy of the name, 
 and among Mohammedans, religion and morality are com- 
 pletely disjoined. Different opinions have been expressed 
 as to the success of Christian missionaries, and gentlemen 
 who judge by the riff-raff that follow Indian camps, speak 
 very unfavorablj', from an impression that the drunkards 
 who profess to be of " Master's caste and drink brandy," 
 lire average specimens of Christian converts. But the 
 comprehensive report of Colonel Ord, presented to Parlia- 
 ment (1865), contains no such mistake. He states that 
 while the presence of the squadron has had some share in 
 suppressing the slave trade, the result is due mainly to the 
 existence of the settlements. This is supported by the 
 fact that, even in those least visited by men-of-war, it has 
 been as effectually suppressed as in those which have been 
 their most constant resort. The moral element, which has 
 proved beneficial all round the settlements, is mainly due 
 to the teaching of missionaries. I would carefully avoid 
 anything like boasting over the benevolent efforts of our 
 countrymen, but here their good influences are totally un- 
 known. No attempt has ever been made by the Moham- 
 medans in East Africa to propagate their faith, and their 
 trade intercourse has only made the natives more avari- 
 cious than themselves. The fines levied on all traders are 
 nearly prohibitive, and nothing is given in return. Mr. 
 Stanlej' was mulcted of sixteen hundred yards of superior 
 calico between the sea and TJjiji, and we made a detour of 
 three hundred miles to avoid similar spoliation among 
 people accustomed to Arabs. It has been said that Mos- 
 lems would be better missionaries than Christians, because 
 they would allow polygamy ; but nowhere have Christians 
 been loaded with the contempt the Arabs have to endure, 
 in addition to being plundered. To "honga" originally 
 meant to make friends. It does so now in all the more 
 central countries, and presents are exchanged at the cere- 
 mony, the natives usually giving the largest amount ; but 
 «n routes much frequented by Arabs, it has come to mea> 
 
PROPOSED COLONIZATION. 581 
 
 not " black mail," but forqed contributions irapudentlj' de- 
 manded, and neither service nor food returned. 
 
 If the native Christians of one or more of the English 
 settlements on the West Coast, which have fuU^' accom- 
 plished the objects of their establishment, in suppressing 
 the slave trade, could be induced by voluntary emigration, 
 to remove to some healthy spot on the East Coast, they 
 ■would in time frown down the duplicity which prevails so 
 much in all classes that no slave treaty can bind them. 
 Slaves purchase their freedom in Cuba, and return to un- 
 healthy Lagos to settle as petty traders. Men of the same 
 enterprising class, who have been imbued with the moral 
 atmosphere of our settlements, would be of incalculable 
 value in developing lawful commerce. Mombas is ours 
 already ; we left it, but never ceded it. The mainland- op- 
 posite Zanzibar is much more healthy than the island, and 
 the Sultan gives as much land as can be cultivated to any 
 one who asks. No native right is interfered with by the 
 gift. All that would be required would be an able, influen- 
 tial man to begin and lead the movement ; the officials 
 alreadj' in office could have passages in men-of-war. The 
 only additional cost to what is at present incurred would 
 be part of the passage monej', on loan, and small rations 
 and house rent, both of which are very cheap, for half a 
 year. It would be well to prevent Europeans, even as mis- 
 sionaries, from entering the settlement till it was well 
 established. 
 
 Many English in new climates reveal themselves to be 
 born fools, and then blame some one for having advised 
 them, or lay their own excuses to the door of African fever. 
 That disease is, in all conscience, bad enough, but medical 
 men are fully aware that frequentlj' it is not fever but folly 
 that kills. Brandy, black women, and lazy inactivity are 
 worse than the climate. A settlement, once fairly estab- 
 lished, and reputed safe, will not long lack religious 
 teachers, and it will then escape the heavy burden of being 
 '» scene for martyrdom. 
 .49» 
 
682 GKATEPUti TO STANLEY. 
 
 If the Sultan of Zanzibar were relieved from paying the 
 heavy subsidy to the ruler of Muscat, he would, for the 
 relief granted, readily concede all that oue or two trans- 
 ferred English settlements would require. The English 
 name, now respected in all the interior, would be a sort of 
 safeguard to petty traders, while gradually supplanting the 
 unscrupulous Banians, who abuse it. And lawful trade 
 would, by the aid of' English and American merchants, be 
 exalted to a position it has never held since Banians and 
 Moslems emigrated to Africa. It is true that Lord Can- 
 ning did ordain that the annual subsidy should be paid by 
 Zanzibar to Muscat. But a statesman of his eminence never 
 could have contemplated it as an indefinite aid to eager 
 slave traders, while non-payment might be used to root out 
 the wretched traffic. If, in addition to the relief suggested, 
 the Sultan of Zanzibar were guaranteed protection from his 
 relations and others in Muscat, he would feel it to be his 
 interest to observe a treaty to suppress slaving all along 
 the coast. 
 
 I am thankful in now reporting myself well supplied with 
 stores ample enough to take a feasible finish-up of the geo- 
 graphical portion of my mission. This is due partly to 
 the goods I seized two days ago from the slaves, who had 
 been feasting on them for the last sixteen months, but 
 chiefly to a large assortment of the best barter articles pre- 
 sented by Henry M. Stanley, who, as I have already in- 
 formed your Lordship, was kindly sent by James Gordon 
 Bennett, Jr., of New York, and who bravely persisted, in 
 the teeth of the most serious obstacles, till he found me at 
 Ujiji, shortly, or one month, after my return from Man- 
 yema, ill and destitute. It will readily be believed that I 
 feel deeply grateful for this disinterested and unlooked for 
 kindness. The supplies I seized two days ago, after a 
 return march of three hundred miles, laid on me by tho 
 slaves in charge refusing to accompany Mr. Stanley to 
 Ujiji, were part of those sent off in the end of October, 
 1870, at the instance of Her Majesty's Government, and 
 are virtually the only stores worthy of the name that cam? 
 
IN GOOD HEALTH AND SPIEIT8. 583 
 
 to hand, besides those despatched by Dr. Seward and my- 
 self, in 1866. And all in consequence of Ludha and 
 Banian slaves having unwittingly been employed to for- 
 ward an expedition opposed to their slaving interests. It 
 was, no doubt, amiable in Dr. Kirk to believe the polite 
 Banians in asserting that they would send stores at once, 
 and again that my wants had all been supplied; but it would 
 have been better to have dropped the money into Zanzibar 
 harbor than to trust it in their hands, because the whole 
 population has witnessed the open plunder of Englisli 
 property, and the delinquents are screened from justice by 
 Banian agents. The slaves needed no more than a hint to 
 plunder and baffle. Shereef and all the Banian slaves who 
 acted in accordance with the views of their masters, are 
 now at Ujiji and Unyanyembe, by the connivance of the 
 Governor, or rather Banian trade agent, Syde bin Salem 
 Buraschid, who, when the wholesale plunder by Shereef be- 
 came known, wrote to me that he (the Governor) had no 
 hand in it. I never said he had. 
 
 However, though sorely knocked up, ill, and dejected, on 
 arriving at Ujiji, I am now completely recovered in heilth 
 and spirits. I need no more goods, but I draw on Her 
 Majesty's Consul at Zanzibar for £500 of the £1000 placed 
 at his disposal for me by Her Majesty's Government, in 
 order that Mr. Stanley may employ and send off fifty free 
 men, but no slaves, from Zanzibar. I need none but them, 
 and have asked Seyed Burghash to give me a good, honest 
 head man, with a character that may be inquired into. I 
 expect them about the end of June, and after all the delay 
 I have endured, feel quite exhilarated at the prospect of 
 doing my work. 
 
 Geographers will be interested to know the plan I pro- 
 pose to follow. I shall at present avoid Ujiji, and ga 
 about southwest from this to Pipa, which is east of and 
 near the south end of Tanganyika ; then round the same 
 soutli end, only touching it again at Pambette ; thence re- 
 Buming the southwest course to cross the Chambez*, and 
 
684 CAVES OP REFUGE. 
 
 proceed along the southern shores of Lake Bangweolts, 
 which, being in latitude 12^ south, the course will be due 
 west, to the ancient fountains of Herodotus. From them 
 it is about ten days' north to Katauga, the copper mines 
 of which have been worked for ages. The malachite ore is 
 described as so abundant, it can bo mentioned by the coal 
 Leaver's phrase, "practically inexhaustible." 
 
 About ten days' northeast of Katauga, very extensive 
 underground rock excavations deserve attention, as very 
 ancient, the natives ascribing their formation to Deity 
 alone. They are remarkable for all having water laid on in 
 running streams, and the inhabitants of large districts can 
 all take refuge in them in case of invasion. Returning 
 from them to Katauga, twelve days' north-northwest, take 
 to the southern end of Lake Lincoln, I wish to go down 
 through it to the Lomani, and into Webb's Lualaba and 
 home. I was mistaken in the information that a waterfall 
 existed between Tanganyika and Albert Nyanza. Tangan- 
 yika is of no interest, except in a verj' remote degree, in con- 
 nection with the sources of the Nile. But what if I am 
 mistaken, too, about the ancient fountain ? Then we shall 
 see. I know the rivers they arc said to form — two north 
 and two south — and in battling down the central line of 
 drainage, the enormous amount of westing caused me at 
 times to feel as if running my head against a stone 
 wall. It might, after all, be the Congo ; and who would 
 care to run the risk of being put into a cannibal pot and 
 converted into a black man for anj'thing less than the grand 
 old Nile? But when I found that Lualaba forsook it.s 
 westing and received through Komolondo. Bartle Prero'« 
 great river, and that afterwards, further down, it takes in 
 Young's great stream through Lake Lincoln. I ventured to 
 think I was on the right track. 
 
 Two great rivers arise somewhere in the western end of 
 the watershed, and flow north — to Egypt. (?1 Two other 
 great rivers rise in the same quarter, and flow south, as the 
 Zambesi or Liambai, and the Kafne, into Inner Ethiopia. 
 Yet I speak with diffidence, for I have no affinity with an 
 
WANTS NO COMPANION. 68a 
 
 untravtjiled ■would-be geographer, who used to swear to the 
 faucies he collected from slaves till he became blue in the 
 face. 
 
 I. know about six hundred miles of the watershed pretty 
 fairly. I turn to the seventh hundred miles with pleasure 
 and hope. I want no companion now, though discovery 
 means hard work. Some can make what they call theoreti- 
 cal discoveries by dreaming. I should like to offer a prize 
 for an explanation of the correlation of the structure and 
 economy of the watershed, with the structure and economy 
 of the great lacustrine rivers in the production- of the phe- 
 nomena of the Nile. The prize cannot be undervalued by 
 competitors even who may only have dreamed of what has 
 given me very great trouble, though they may have hit on 
 the division of labor in dreaming, and each discovered one 
 or two hundred miles. In the actual discovery so far, I went 
 two years and six months without once tasting tea, coffee 
 or sugar; and except at Ujiji, have fed on buffaloes, rhino- 
 ceros, elephants, hippopotami, and cattle of that sort, and 
 have come to believe that English roast beef arid plum 
 pudding must be the real genuine theobroma, the food of 
 the gods, and I offer to all successful competitors a 
 glorious feast of beefsteaks and stout. No competition 
 will be allowed after I have published my own explana- 
 tion, on pain of immediate execution, without benefit of 
 clergy ! 
 
 I send home my journal, by Mr. Stanley, sealed, to my 
 daughter Agnes. It is one of Letts's large folio diaries, 
 and is full except a few (five) pages reserved for alti- 
 tudes which I cannot at present eopj'. It contains a 
 few private memoranda for my family alone, and I adopt 
 this course in order to secure it from risk in ray conclu* 
 ding trip. 
 
 Trusting that your Lordship will award me your appro- 
 bation and sanction to a little longer delay, I have, etc., 
 
 Davix) Ltvingstx)ne, 
 Her Majesty's Consul. Inner Africa. 
 
686 fOUETH SEARCH AND RELIEF EXPEDITIOH. 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 t 
 
 THE END OF A LONG LIFE. 
 
 On Livingstone's departure from Unyanyembe, August 
 24th, 1812, as has been narrated in the foregoing chapters, 
 his intention was to strike in a southeasterly direction 
 towards the Katanga Fountains, said to exist southwest 
 of Lake Bangweolo, and having a large share, as he believed, 
 in the supply of the water of the Lualaba, and consequently 
 of the Nile, his firm opinion being that the Lualaba was 
 none other than the great river of Egypt. 
 
 Though nothing was heard from him directly, as he prose- 
 cuted his final journey, we are able to trace his steps accu- 
 rately from Unyanyembe as far as Mpokwa in Utanda, six 
 days from Tanganyika. At this village his road branches 
 and runs south, through IJfipa, across the plain of the 
 Rungwa. Beyond Uflpa is Uemba, which occupies a con- 
 siderable stretch of the southeastern end of the lake, as far 
 as Karungu. Beyond Karungu, which bounds the Lake 
 Liemba on the southeastern shore, begins the district of 
 Liemba, which occupies the southern end of the lake, and 
 much of the southeastern extremity. Passing through 
 Liemba, Livingstone would arrive in Marungu. Crossing 
 Marungu, he would reach the outskirts of the great country, 
 of Lunda. 
 
 In the meantime, about the period Livingstone must 
 have been toiling through the oozy marshes, bounding a 
 portion of the Lake Bangweolo on the north, the fourth 
 Search and Relief Expedition arrived at Zanzibar, in 
 February, 1873. This party was commanded by Lieu- 
 tenants Cameron and Murphy and a Dr. Dillon, and was 
 sent to Africa under the auspices of the Geographical 
 Society of England, and was assisted by Sir Bartle Frere, 
 who was then at Zanzibar, endeavoring to obtain the first 
 results which Livingstone's energetic denunciation of the 
 
aETURN OF THE EEMAINS TO KNGLAND, 587 
 
 slave trade had caused his government and nation to make. 
 The expedition arrived at Unyanyembe in the latter part 
 of August, 1813. In October the leaders were startled at 
 the appearance of Chumah in their midst, who had come 
 from the south, and who informed them that Livingstone's 
 body was but twenty days behind, being brought by Living- 
 stone's followers. 
 
 In the beginning of November, the faithful followers of 
 Livingstone, seventy-nine in number, appeared at Unyan- 
 yembe with the mournful burden they had carried over 
 1000 miles. Soon after, Dr. Dillon, who was sick, and 
 Lieutenant Murphj', who had resigned his share in the 
 expedition, started from Unyanyembe. At Kasegera, Dr. 
 Dillon, who was blind and temporarily deranged, committed 
 suicide. In February, 1814, the body of Livingstone 
 arrived at Zanzibar, and was shipped in care of Mr. Arthur 
 Laing, as well as all his books, papers, and personal effects, 
 to England, where the steamer to which all had been tran- 
 shipped at Aden arrived on the 16th of April, 1874, eight 
 3'ears and eighteen days since Livingstone had departed 
 from England. 
 
 After the arrival of the steamer Malwa, which contained 
 the body, in the dock at Southampton, the coflBn was borne 
 to the Royal Pier, and then carried through a sympathetic 
 and reverent population, who had gathered en masse to pay 
 a mute but impressive tribute of respect for all that Living- 
 stone had done through life. Then taken to London, the 
 bodj' was formally examined by Sir William Fergusson 
 and the friends of Livingstone, and by the left arm-bone, 
 which the lion's jaws had splintered nearly thirty years ago, 
 was recognized instantly, and all doubt of his death was 
 finally and fully dissipated for ever. 
 
 The following letter from Sir William Furgusson, to The 
 London Lancet, gives an interesting account of the way the 
 body was identified. He says : 
 
 " Within the last few months many have hesitated to 
 believe that Livingstone was dead. Above all it seemed 
 
588 A CRUCIAL EXAMINATION. 
 
 beyond ordinary probability that his remains would have 
 been brought from Central Africa to the heart of London, 
 That a body was on its way from this all but mythical 
 region could hardly be doubted after the examination at 
 Zanzibar of the remains, but many were sceptical as to this 
 dead frame being that of Livingstone. Happily it was 
 borne in mind by many old friends that he had one condi- 
 tion of body which would mark the identification of his 
 remains even if years and j'ears had elapsed. If it should 
 be proved on anatomical examination the remains of an 
 old ununited fracture in his left humerus (arm bone) could 
 be recognized, all doubt on the subject would be settled at 
 once and forever. It has fallen to my lot to have the honor 
 of being selected to make the crucial examination to this 
 end, and I have accordingly performed that dntj'. From 
 what I have seen I am much impressed with the ingenious 
 manner in which those who have contrived to secure that 
 the body should be carried through the long distance from 
 where Livingstone died until it could reach a place where 
 transit was comparatively easy accomplished their task. 
 The lower limbs were so severed from the trunk that the 
 length of the bulk of package was reduced to a little over 
 four feet. The soft tissues seem to have been removed to 
 a great extent from the bones, and these latter were so 
 disposed that by doubling and otherwise the shortening 
 was accomplished. The abdominal viscera were absent, 
 and so were those of the chest, including, of course, heart 
 and lungs. There had been made a large opening in front 
 of the abdomen, and through that the native operators had 
 ingeniously contrived to remove the contents of the chest 
 as well as of the abdomen. The skin over cliest, sternum, 
 and ribs had been untouched. Before these points were 
 clearly ascertained some coarse tapes had to be loosened, 
 which set free some rough linen material — a striped colored 
 bit of cotton cloth, such as might have been an attractive 
 material for the natives among whom Livingstone travelled 
 — a coarse cotton shirt, which doubtless belonged to the 
 
ALL DOUBTS SETTLED. 589 
 
 traveller's scanty wardrobe, and in particular a large por- 
 tion of the bark of a tree, which had formed the principal 
 part of the package — the case thereof no doubt. The skin 
 of the trunk, from the pelvis to the crown of the head, had 
 been untouched. Everywhere was that shrivelling which 
 might have been expected after salting, baking in the sun, 
 and eleven months of time. The features of the face could 
 not be recognized. The hair on the scalp was plentiful, 
 and much longer than he wore it when last in England. 
 A moustache could not be recognized, but whiskers were in 
 abundance. The forehead was in shape sucli as we are 
 familiar with from memory, and from the pictures and 
 busts now extant. The circumference of the cranium, 
 from the occiput to the brow, was 23J inches, which was 
 recognized by some present to be in accordance with such 
 measurements when alive. In particular the arras attracted 
 attention. They lay as if placed in ordinary fashion, each 
 down by the side. The skin and tissues under were on 
 each side shrunk almost to skeleton bulk, and at a glance 
 to practised eyes — there were five, I may say six, profes- 
 sional men present — the state of the left arm was such as 
 to convince every one present who had examined it during 
 life that the limb was Livingstone's. Exactly in the region 
 of the attachment of the deltoid to the humerus there were 
 the indications of an oblique fracture. On moving the arm 
 there were the indications of the ununited fracture. A 
 closer investigation and dissection displayed the false joint 
 whicli had long ago been so well recognized by those who 
 had examined the arm in former days. The Rev. Dr. 
 Moffat, and in particular Dr. Kirlc, late of Zanzibar, and 
 Dr. Loudon, of Hamilton, in Scotland, at once recognized 
 the condition. Having myself been consulted regarding 
 the state of the limb when Livingstone was last in London, 
 I was convinced that the remains of the great traveller lay 
 before us. Thousands of heads with a like large circum- 
 ference might have been under similar scrutiny ; the 
 skeletons of hundreds of thousands might have been so ; 
 50 
 
590 FINAL RESTINQ-PLACK. 
 
 the humerus in each might have been perfect ; if one or 
 both had been broken during life it would have united 
 again in such a manner that a tyro could easily have 
 detected the peculiarity. The condition of ununited frac- 
 tnre in this locality is exceedingly rare. I say this from 
 my personal professional experience, and that such a speci- 
 men should have turned up in London from the centre of 
 Africa, excepting in the body of Dr. Livingstone, where it 
 was known by competent authorities to have existed, is 
 beyond human credibility. It must not be supposed by 
 those who are not professionally acquainted with this kind 
 of lesion — which often causes so much interest to the 
 practical surgeon — that a fracture and new joint of the 
 kind now referred to could have been of recent date or 
 made for a purpose. There were in reality all the indica- 
 tions which the experienced pathologist recognizes as in- 
 fallible, such as the attenuated condition of the two great 
 fragments (common under such circumstances), and the 
 semblance of a new joint, but actually there was a small 
 fragment detached from the others which bore out Living- 
 stone's own view that the bones had been ' crushed into 
 splinters.' Having had ample opportunity of examining 
 the arm during life, and conversing with Livingstone on 
 the subject, and being one of those who entertained hopes 
 that the last reports of Livingstone's death might, like 
 others, prove false, I approached the examination with an 
 anxious feeling regarding this great and most peculiar 
 crucial test. The first glance at the left arm set my mind 
 at rest, and that, with the further examination, made me as 
 positive as to the identity of thpse remains as that there 
 has been among us in modern times one of the greatest 
 men of the human race — David Livingstone." 
 
 THE FINAL RESTING PLACE. 
 
 On Saturday, April 18th, 1874, the body of the great 
 explorer was borne, amid testimonies of profound respect 
 from great numbers of people, to its final home in West^ 
 minster Abbey, 
 
FUNERAL ATTENDANTS. 591 
 
 The solemn occasion had gathered together from all parts 
 of Great Britain the still living companions of Livingstone 
 ■who in South and Central Africa shared his joys and pri- 
 vations in the wild lands of the interior, who now acted as 
 pall-bearers. Here were the lion-hunters, Sir Thomas 
 Steele, W. C. Oswell, and W. F. Webb ; Kirk, the botanist 
 of the Zambesi Expedition ; Waller, who had assisted him 
 in his errand of philanthropy on the Upper Shire ; Young, 
 the gunner of the Pioneer and commander of the first 
 Search Expedition to Nyassa Lake; Stanley, who dis- 
 covered him at tljiji; and young Jacob Wainwright, the 
 representative of the faithful dusky followers who had been 
 despatched to him for his last tour of exploration. 
 
 Following tile coffin as mourners, as it was carried 
 reverently and slowly up the splendid aisle, were the 
 children of the dead explorer, Thomas Steele, Agnes, Wil- 
 liam Oswell, and Anna Mar3' Livingstone, the two sorrow- 
 ing sisters of Livingstone, Mrs. Livingstone, the wife of 
 Charles Livingstone, and the white-bearded patriarch, 
 Robert Moffat, who had given him his daughter Mary in 
 marriage at distant Kuruman ; and behind these came the 
 Duke of Sutherland, the Lord Advocate of Scotland, Lords 
 Shaftesbury and Houghton, Sir Bartle Frere, Dr. Lyon 
 Playfair, Sir H. Rawlinson, Lord Lawrence, Sir F. Buxton, 
 the Honorable Arthur Kinnaird, and a long procession 
 composed of the geographical savants of Great Britain. 
 
 The vast assembly, the solemn strains of soft music, the 
 extent of black draperji-, and the dark-clothed mourners, 
 made a most impressive sight, and yet with all these 
 externals of sorrow, it may be doubted whether it was 
 more impressive than the sad ceremony which occurred on 
 the 4th of May, I8I0, under the tree near the village of 
 Chitirabwa, or Kitumbo, in Central Africa, where young 
 Jacob Wainwright officiated in his quality of Christian 
 when the heart of the noble Livingstone was committed to 
 the soil, for the enslaved children of which it had beaten 60 
 long in sorrow over their sufferings. 
 
592 DUST TO DUST. 
 
 The coflBn was laid on a trestle covered with velvet 
 trappings, and wreaths of immortelles were placed over it 
 by the donors or their friends ; in a short time afterwards it 
 was borne towards the grave, during which a soft voluntary 
 was played on the organ. The oaken cofBn was then un- 
 covered and revealed, with the inscription on a brazen 
 plate : 
 
 david livingstone, 
 
 boen at blantyke, lanarkshire, scotland, 
 
 19th march, 1813, 
 
 died at ilala, central aruica, 
 
 4th may, ISTS., 
 
 Dean Stanley then read the Burial Service, after the 
 
 coffin was lowered, and the awful words, "Dust to dust, 
 
 ashes to ashes," announced to all within the Abbey that 
 
 David Livingstone was at last laid in the grave 1 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 the last letters op the great exfloreb. 
 
 The following letters from Livingstone, to his brother, 
 Mr. John Livingstone, of Listowal, Ont., Canada, are the 
 last which were ever received from him. 
 
 " Manyuema, or Cannibal Country, say 150 miles north- 
 west of Ujiji, April, 1870. — My Dear Brother: I have not 
 the faintest prospect of being able to send this to the coast 
 for many months to come, but I write to have something 
 in readiness when an opportunity of making up a packet 
 arrives. As soon as I was able to march I went up Tan- 
 ganyika about fifty or sixty miles, and from south up the 
 Islet Kasange, struck away first northwest, then I passed 
 the beginning of the lake formed by the Lualaba and 
 found myself in the great bend which that lake river 
 makes after, as I saw it coming out of Lake Moreo. I 
 
STAGNANT POOLS AND GIANT TREES. 593 
 
 made up to a small Ai"ab party which rendered me most 
 important aid in my illness in Marungu, and we met a lot 
 of TJjijians coming with 18,000 pounds' weight of ivory. 
 The ivory was bought in this new field for a mere trifle in 
 beads. After resting awhile in the town of the principal 
 Manyuema chief I went west down a river named Luamo, 
 from 100 to 150 yards broad, and always deep enough to 
 require canoes ; but the Ujiji traders had been obliged to 
 employ their slaves in collecting their ivory, and slaves 
 with guns in their hands are usually limbs of the evil one. 
 The Manyuema were always in the wrong, wanted to eat 
 them, and always gave the slaves reasons to capture peo- 
 ple, goats, and fowls, and carry off as much grain as they 
 needed. Their head men did not approve of this ; they 
 wanted the ivory only, but the masters and men joined in 
 one chorus : The Manyuema are bad, bad, bad, very bad. 
 
 " When near the confluence of Luamo and Lualaba I 
 was coming among people who had suflTered very severely 
 at the hands of the slaves, and they would not believe 
 that my small party did not belong to the bloodthirsty 
 strangers. The women were particularly outspoken, but 
 the worst that was done was to turn out in force and show 
 us .out of the district. Glad that no collision took place 
 we returned to the principal town, and with the friendly 
 party which we overtook struck away north, they to bu3'- 
 ivory and I to get a canoe on the Lualaba, but the rains 
 began, and travelling, as I found, in Marungu in the wet 
 season was killing work. The vegetation is indescribably 
 rank ; through the grass — if grass it can be called, which is 
 more than half an inch thick in the stalk and twelve feet 
 high — nothing but elephants can walk. Then large belts of 
 pi'imeval forest stand between the districts, and into them 
 the sun, though vertical, cannot penetrate. The rain-water 
 stands in stagnant pools, and the dead leaves decay in the 
 damp soil and make the water of the numerous rills and 
 rivulets of the color of a strong infusion of tea. One 
 feels himself the veriest pigmy before the giant trees. 
 50* 
 
594 SOUECE OF THE NILE. 
 
 The roots, high out of the soil, keep you constantly look- 
 ing down, and shot does no harm to guinea fowls on their 
 tops. The climbing plants prevent you from leaving the 
 ancient path, and I have heard the soko or gorilla growl- 
 ing close by without being able to get a sight of him. 
 Their call to each other is lilie that of a tom-cat. The 
 country is mountainous ; the light gray granite of the 
 hills rises through a bed of new red sand-stone, looking 
 like islands in it. Innumerable dells have to be crossed, 
 and the mud of Manyuema is awful. Bad water and per- 
 petual wetting told on us all by choleraic symptoms and 
 emaciation. 
 
 " The news of the chiefs caused a gold fever at TJjiji, 
 and soon a herd numbering 600 muskets made up to us, 
 all eager for ivory. I turned back about seven days and 
 resolved to remain with the heads of this party during the 
 rains. Their people are away and they are as kind to me 
 as I could wish. Rest and boiling all the water I used 
 have restored me. After this preamble I may add that 
 slowly and surely the conviction has crept across my mind 
 that all I can in honesty and modesty claim is the re- 
 discovery of the source of the Nile, which had sunk into 
 oblivion like the circumnavigation of Africa by the Phoe- 
 necian admiral of one of the Pharaohs, b. o. about 600. 
 Herodotus did not believe him because he said that in 
 passing around Libya he had the sun on his right hand. 
 This to us, who have gone round from east to west, stamps 
 his tale as genuine. He put down the sources of the Nile 
 and Mountains of the Moon in 10 to 12 degrees south, 
 where I found both them and the water-shed. Ptolemy, 
 or more probably his predecessors, had received genuine 
 though oral information from men who had visited this 
 region. This is extremely likely, because the fountains 
 and mountains abound where no theorist would put them. 
 He makes their waters collect into two lacustrine rivers, 
 Tanganyika and Lualaba, extant specimens of those lake 
 and river beds known in the south of Africa as melaz^o, 
 
MISTAKE OF CAPTAIN SPEKB. 595 
 
 and in the north as wadj-s, both words meaning the same 
 thing — river beds where no Tvater now flows. I am now 
 trying to follow the western arm down, and have seen 
 enough of it to confirm the information which the Greek 
 geographer or others derived from ancient explorers. 
 The eastern arm of Tanganyilca, upper and lower, has 
 been much exaggerated in breadth. I carefullj' .watched 
 its steady flow to the north for three months by means of 
 broad masses of aquatic vegetation which, but for this 
 current, would be the means of choking it up, as is the 
 case with Okaro, the Yictoria Nyanza. As soon as I have 
 ascertained where the western arm joins the eastern I shall 
 retire and pray that the Almighty may lead me safely 
 home. I have no wish to speak dogmaticall_v of what I 
 have done, and I feel a little sorry that I am in a manner 
 compelled to speak disparagingly of the opinions of 
 modern discoverers of the sources of the Nile. The great 
 mistake of Captain Speke was the eager pursuit of a fore- 
 gone conclusion. When he discovered the Victoria Nyanza 
 he at once leapt to the conclusion that therein lay the 
 sources of the Nile, the whole lake being 500 miles down 
 the great Nile Valley and so much away from the sources. 
 As soon as Speke and Grant looked towards their Nyanza 
 they turned their backs on the fountains, and in their 
 splendid achievements of following the river down, every 
 step took tliem further away from the Caput Nili. Baker 
 came further up the great valley than any other explorer 
 in modern times, had his face in the right direction, but 
 turned when some tOO miles from the sources. He seemed 
 inclined to make the lower Tanganyika a second source to 
 Speke's. Those two large rivers begin in a lake. "I am 
 glad that he has received some of the honors he deserves. 
 Ptolemy's small lake Coloe is a more correct' view of 
 Victoria Nyanza than that given nowadays. As to breadth 
 the native Arabs might be mistaken, but not in saying 
 that they knew three lakes where a huge Victoria Nyanza 
 has been run in. 
 
596 THE GREAT WATEll-SHED. 
 
 " No honors seem to have been given the Dutch lady ex- 
 plorer, though her noble perseverance after losing her two 
 aunts by fever awakens my admiration. She had pro- 
 vided so well for both land and water exploration that 
 had she not been, honestly enough no doubt, assured by 
 Speke and Grant that they had already found the sources 
 she sought, she must inevitably by boat or on land have 
 reached the sources. She came a great deal further up 
 than JfiTero's centurion. They say exploration was not 
 becoming her sex. Well, considering that 1600 years 
 have elapsed since Ptolemy wrote, and kings, emperors, 
 all the great men of antiquity longed to know the foun- 
 tains whence flowed the famous river, exploration does 
 not seem to have been very becoming the other sex either. 
 I do not know anything more about her than what has 
 appeared in newspapers. She possesses indomitable pluck 
 and no mistake. 
 
 "When Sir Roderick Murchison proposed to me the 
 examination of the water-shed of South Central Africa I 
 indicated the trae scientific mode of ascertaining the cor- 
 rect position of the fountains of the Nile. The problem 
 put thus had a charm for my mind. I had no theory on 
 the subject, and was prepared to find the water-shed im- 
 mediately to the south of Speke's Lake or anywhere else. 
 The dividing line between the drainage south and north 
 was unknown and a fit object for exploration. I recom- 
 mended Dr. Kirk for the task, and he having declined I 
 ultimately accepted it myself in the belief that I could in 
 two years pass acr.oss the head of Nyassa, examine the 
 water-shed, and in returning begin a benevolent mission 
 on the slope back again to the sea. Had I known all the 
 toil, hunger, hardship, and time involved in getting a clear 
 idea of the drainage, I might have preferred a strait waist- 
 coat, the head shaved, and a blister on it, to undertaking 
 the task. The water-shed is 800 miles long from west to 
 east. Forwards, backwards-, sideways I went, in a route 
 which can never all be put down, I had to feel my way, 
 
EVIDENCE OI' CANNIBALISM. 59T 
 
 and every step of the way was generally groping in the 
 dark, for who cared where the rivers ran ? Native wars 
 were a great hindrance ; unsuitable, cowardly attendants, 
 an intolerable drag to both body and mind. It is more 
 difficult to get reasonable evidence of the cannibalism of 
 the Manyuema than might be imagined. I have tried ever 
 since I came to see human flesh either cooked or eaten, 
 but in vain. A finger wrapped up in a leaf was all that 
 rewarded my search and oifers of payment. This was 
 probably a chance taken by a party which killed a man in 
 revenge. The occurrence of graves frees a district from 
 this imputation — their absence is suspicious, but in the 
 Backwain country a grave is never seen, and the people 
 are not cannibals. Had I believed one-tenth part of the 
 tales told of the Manyuema by the traders and by the 
 tribes in their vicinity, I might not have ventured among 
 them. My mother never frightened me with bogy, so I 
 am not subject to bogyphobia, in which disease everything 
 horrible is believed if imputed to a black skin. It is 
 epidemic in Jamaica. 
 
 " It is no wonder that the Portuguese gained so little 
 knowledge of this country and the drainage into the Nile. 
 Their three visits to Cazembe were simply slaving expedi- 
 tions. They inquired for ivory and slaves, and heard of 
 nothing else. Gentlemen of good principles at Lisbon 
 will now feel sorry that no higher objects animated their 
 countrymen, but as a nation they had no higher aim in 
 reference to us on the Shire than by thwarting our eflforts 
 by murder and arson, till all the people we risked life and 
 fortune to elevate were swept away. 
 
 " I felt certain that the water-shed held the solution of 
 the problem, not because it was wished that the water-shed 
 be examined, but because I had already discovered the 
 chief sources of the Zambesi and the southern sources of 
 the Congo. The Nile, I felt persuaded, would not be 
 essentially diflferent. The high flanking ridges of the 
 valleys of these rivers are repeated in those that begin at 
 
698 PALMEESTON AND LINCOLN. 
 
 Katanga and the country of Basango. The the6ry as to 
 the form of the continent has a more limited application 
 than I thought it had from the observation made in my 
 great journey from Loando to Quillimane. The Lnalaba 
 is the central line of drainage of the great Nile Valley. 
 It begins in 10° 12' south, flows through Lake Bangweola, 
 then through Lake Moreo, to become itself a great lake 
 river, one of the headwaters of the River of Egypt. 
 West of this there are two large rivers of the same name. 
 These two Lualabas united form a large lake. Lake Lin- 
 coln. I use the names of the two great and good men, 
 Palmerston and Lincoln, in loving admiration, as if to 
 place my poor garland of love on their tombs. These two 
 rivers rise by two fountains, which by anticipation I named 
 Bartle Frere's (he abolished slavery in Scinde, India) and 
 Young's fountains. About ten miles south of these rise 
 otlier two fountains ; one is that of the Liamba or Upper 
 Zambesi, the other gives rise to the Kafui. These I named 
 Palmerston and Oswell, which flow into Zambesi. These 
 four fountains are probably the Nile fountains, which were 
 described to Herodotus as unfathomable, and sending one- 
 half of the water to Egypt, the other half to inner Ethiopa. 
 I have only to do this part to finish up the whole discovery, 
 and I have a sore longing to return homewards. I am 
 brought to a stand by my worthless attendants, who, besides 
 deserting, become eager slave hunters of their own country- 
 men. They had all been slaves and of the criminal class 
 in Africa, and went with me only to avoid being enslaved 
 again and made to work. Their eager slave-hunting where 
 no danger was incurred was to ingratiate themselves with 
 the Arabs. Assuredly if the freedmen in America turn 
 out well, it will be from having been taught to work, and 
 liking it as we do. My worthies had been petted, coddled, 
 and allowed to live i«i idleness from mistaken kindness, 
 and on leaving the school sent me an anonymous letter, 
 abusing the master who had fed, clothed, and taught them 
 for years. Had we been treated as they were we should 
 have been as useless. I have travelled with all soi-ts of 
 
AN ARAB THIEF. 599 
 
 Africans — Hottentots, Bechuanas, Makololo, Backwims, 
 and Zambesians of different tribes — and we soon became 
 attached to eacli other. My present lot are exceptions, 
 not fair specimens of Africans. 
 
 " My love to Sarah and the children. I have had no 
 letters from home for years, except some three years old. 
 I fear that a large packet, with one for you, I sent from 
 Ujiji, was destroyed by an Arab Governor, who sent one 
 of his men to plunder my goods, and then kept a long box 
 containing two English guns, medicines, letters, and de- 
 spatches, though I sent it twice. He does not want evidence 
 of his theft to go to the coast, and he kept a man who wit- 
 nessed tlie plundering as well as the packet. All will turn 
 out right at last I hope ; meantime it is trying. 
 
 Affectionately yours, David Livingstone." 
 
 The following is his second letter (headed private and 
 confidential), dated. Lake Bangweola, South Central Africa, 
 December, 1872: 
 
 "My Dear Brother. * * * I was still determined not 
 to give in to their villanies, and of working my way down 
 to Baker for aid. It was then that my good Samaritan, 
 Stanley, sent by James Gordon Bennett, of the New York 
 Herald, came on the scene, and his conduct was beyond 
 all praise. I was told that Stanley would make his fortune 
 of me, and if he does he is heartily welcome, for he saved 
 me a we:irisome tramp after Baker, and probably saved 
 my life. * * * And if the good Lord above me gives me 
 strength and influence to complete the task in spite of 
 everything, I shall not grudge my hunger and toils. 
 Above all, if He permits me to put a stop to the enormous 
 evils of this inland slave trade I shall bless His name with 
 all my heart. The Nile sources are valuable to me only as 
 a means of opening my mouth with power among men. 
 It is this power I hope to apply to remedy an enormous 
 evil and join my poor little helping hand in the great 
 revolution that in His all-embracing providence He has been 
 carrying on for ages and is now actively helping forward. 
 Affectionately yours, Datid Livingstone." 
 
600 CHAEAOTKR OF LIVINGSTONE. 
 
 Thus ends the record of the mortal life of Livingstone, 
 and a few words of appreciation of his cliaracter and 
 labors, will fitly close this volume. He was pre-eminentlj- 
 one of those almost ideal characters which appear but 
 seldom, and whose greatness is of a kind that is instinc- 
 tively recognized by the force of sympathy, without the 
 need of analysis or labored eulogy. The unwavering 
 faith of the Christian missionary, the ardor of the enter- 
 prising explorer, and the sagacity of the practical philan- 
 thropist are rarely to be found in the same person. But 
 they were harmoniously blended in Dr. Livingstone, com- 
 bined with a child-like simplicity, an intuitive knowledge 
 of character, a tenacity of purpose that nothing could 
 shake, and a singleness of aim to which circumstances 
 were made inexorably to bend. In electing to be rather 
 the pioneer of Christianity and commerce in Africa than a 
 local missionary, we have evidence of his range of vision, 
 of his carelessness of immediate results, and of his entire 
 conviction that he had a work to do which none else could 
 accomplish. To discover the unknown regions of Cen- 
 tral Africa, and solve great geographical problems, was in 
 itself an honorable ambition. With him it was only a 
 means to an , end. Dr. Livingstone cared little for such 
 exploits in comparison with his noble aspiration of open- 
 ing that continerit to the light of religion and civilization, 
 and extirpating the slave trade, which is the main hin- 
 drance to that beneficent consummation. This done, or 
 done in part, his life work would be accomplished. • It was 
 for him to open a pathway through the wilderness, along 
 which others might advance and reap the fruits of his 
 arduous labor. 
 
 The career of a man so enthusiastic, single-minded, and 
 irrepressible, while to himself one of life-long hardship 
 and perils, of strenuous effort and constant discourage- 
 ment, is to all the rest of the world a fascinating ro- 
 mance. The imagination is spell-bound in following Dr. 
 Livingstone from the mission station at Kuruman across 
 
DEATH BLOW TO THE SLAVE TRADE. 601 
 
 the terrible and supposed impassable desert of Kalahari, 
 beyond which the explorer discovered, in regions then 
 represented by a blank on the map of Africa, well-watered 
 lands, a fertile soil, and races hitherto unknown to the 
 outer world; then across Central Africa to Loando, and 
 back again from the western to the eastern coast. Amid 
 these tribes, all barbarous and some savage, he passed 
 unmolested with a bodj'-guard of native adherents — his 
 moral influence, courteous and respectful demeanor, and 
 lack of self-seeking, being his best passport to the con- 
 fidence of the negro tribes, and these tribes only became 
 troublesome when he came upon the trail of the slave- 
 dealers who had carried fire and sword into these primi- 
 tive communities. 
 
 Dr. Livingstone had already rearranged the map of 
 Africa, and, as it were, discovered a new world. But that 
 was not enough. His weather-beaten frame demanded 
 rest, and the ties of kindred at home were strong ; but he 
 must complete his mission. Once again he plunged with 
 his devoted followers into the heart of that continent in a 
 more northerly direction, with a view to solve the grand 
 problem of the sources of the Nile, and for several years 
 was lost to sight. At present the particulars of his last 
 jource3's and discoveries are fragmentary; but this lonely 
 traveller, who for years saw no white face till Mr. Stanley 
 tracked him out, was able, by means of a few scraps of 
 information and stirring appeals, so to move the heart of 
 England that the detestable slave trade, 'which has deso- 
 lated the country, received its death-blow. Once again 
 Dr. Livingstone was left to his solitude, and at length fell 
 a victim to his exploring zeal, ignorant that the great 
 work was well nigh accomplished by Sir Bartle Frere, 
 which he had been the means of initiating by means of 
 the treaty with the Sultan of Zanzibar. It is nearly a 
 j'ear ago that, exhausted with the hardships of travel, he 
 Ijathetically enjoined his faithful native adherents, "Build 
 me a hut to die in. I am going home " — and there, at 
 
G02 HONOR TO DEVOTED HEROISM. 
 
 llala, he slept the sleep of the just. His lifeless body was 
 conveyed during many months of a toilsome and danger- 
 ous journey a distance of more than a thousand miiles to 
 the coast, by his humble body-guard, one and all liberated 
 slaves — a grander and more touching memento of the 
 great missionai'y explorer than any tomb which can be 
 raised in his honor in Westminster Abbey. The devoted 
 heroism of his followers was worthj' of the chief they 
 served. 
 
 The time seems to be near at hand when the vast con- 
 tinent of Africa will have yielded up all her secrets, when 
 the traffic in flesh and blood which- has depopulated the 
 negro race will be as much a tradition on the east coast as 
 on the west, and when the highway will be open by which 
 the missionary and trader may obtain access to its fertile 
 plains and highlands to carry the blessings of Christianity, 
 civilization, and commerce into the remotest districts of 
 the continent. With this grand achievement the name 
 Livingstone will be ever associated. Though he has had 
 woi-thy Coadjutors in Grant, Speke, Baker, and other ex- 
 plorers, the work of opening Africa is mainlj' the outcome 
 of his faith, his sagacity, his perseverance, his hardships, 
 and his sufferings. He has, moreover, bequeathed to his 
 countrymen — to the whole world — the legacy of an entire 
 life of self-devotion, single in its aim, perfect in its com- 
 pleteness, and sublime in its grandeur, which will incite to 
 self-aacrifice and enthusiasm as long as the record of his 
 character and labors survives. 
 
HISTORICAL NOTICES OF DISCOVERIES IN AFRICA 
 
 In the time of Herodctus, and long afterward, the g» 
 aoral opinion was that Africa did not extend 80 far south 
 as the equatorial lino. There existed, however, a traditioE 
 that Afriea had been circumnavigated by the Phoenicians 
 about six centuries before the Cliristian era; but, if the 
 Bonthern promontory of Africa had really been reached, 
 it is difficult to conceive how so erroneous an impression 
 could have prevailed as to the extent of the continent. It 
 is, therefore, most probable that such a voyage had never 
 succeeded; and, indeed, the circumstances under which it 
 was prosecuted, according to the accounts which have come 
 down to us, only add an additional feature of improbability 
 to the story. Turning to modem times, we find, at the 
 commencement of the fifteenth century, that Europeans 
 were only acquainted with that portion of the western 
 coast of Africa which extends from the Straits of Gibraltar 
 to Cape Nun, — a line of coast not exceeding six hundred 
 miles in length. The Portuguese had the honor of extend- 
 ing this limited acquaintance with the outline of the African 
 continent. Their zeal for discovery in this direction became 
 truly a national passion, and the sovereigns and princes of 
 Portugal prosecuted this object with singular enthusiasm. 
 By the year 1471 the Portuguese navigators had advanced 
 2i° south of the Line In 1484, Diego Cam reached 22<» 
 south latitude. The next navigator, Bartholomew Diaz, 
 was commanded to pursue his course southward until ho 
 should roach the extremity of Africa; and to him belongs 
 the honor of discovering the Capo of Good Hope, the name 
 given to it at the time by tbe King of Portugal, though 
 Diaz had named it Cabo Tormentoso, (the Capo of Tem- 
 pests.) The Csq^e of Good Hope was at first frequently 
 called the Lion of the Sea, and also the Head of Africa 
 In 1497, Vasco de Gama set forth with the intention of 
 ^el^ohing India by sailing round the Cape of Good Hope 
 
 603 
 
604 dKETOH or ATBICAN DISOOVEET. 
 
 After doubling tho Capo, he pursued his course along the 
 eastern coast of Africa, and then stretched across tho ocean 
 10 India. Tho Portuguese had no-w ascertained the general 
 outline of Africa and the position of many of the principal 
 rivers and headlands. With the exception of a portion of 
 the coast from the Straits of Bab el Mandeb to Mukdeesha, 
 gituated in 3'= north latitude, tho whole of the coast had 
 been traced by the Portuguese, and their zeal and enthu- 
 iiasm, which had at one period been treated with ridicule, 
 were at length triumphantly rewarded, about fbur years 
 before Columbus had achieved his great discovery, which, 
 with that of Vasco de Gama, amply repaid a century ol 
 speculative enterprise. This interesting combination ol 
 events had a sensible effect upon tho general mind of 
 Europe. Tho Portuguese soon formed settlements in 
 Africa, and began to acquire a knowledge of tho interior 
 of the country. They were followed by the French, and 
 afterward by the English and tho Dutch. 
 
 It is chiefly within the last fifty years that discoveries 
 m tho interior of Africa have been porseveringly and sys- 
 sematically prosecuted. In 1788, a society was established 
 m London with the design of encouraging men of entcr- 
 ■orise to explore tho African continent. John Ledyard, 
 an American, was the first person selected by tho African 
 Association for this task ; and he set out in 1788 with tho 
 intention of traversing tho widest part of tho continent 
 from oast to west, in the supposed latitude of tho rivor 
 Niger. Unfortunately, ho was soiitcd at Cairo with a 
 fever, of which he died. Ho possessed few p jicntifio ac- 
 quirements ; but his vigor and powers of endurance, mental 
 and bodily, his indifference to pain, hardship, and fatigue, 
 would have rendered him an admirable geographical pio- 
 neer. "I have known,'' he said, shortly before leaving 
 England for the last time, " hunger and nakedness to the 
 utmost extremity of human suffering : I have known what 
 it is to have food t^iven as charity to a madman, and have 
 ftt times been obliged to shelter myself under the miseries 
 
SKETCH or AJRIOAN DISCOVEBt. 606 
 
 of that character to avoid a heavier calamity. My dis 
 tresses have been greater than I have over owned, or ovot 
 will own, to any man. Such evils are terrible to bear; but 
 they never yet had the power to turn me from my purpose.* 
 Bnch was the indomitable energy of this man, the first oi 
 a long list of victims in the cause of African discoveiy 
 Mr. liucas, who was despatched by the Association to sup 
 ply the place of Ledyard, was 3ompelled to r«tum home 
 in consequence of several of the countries through which 
 he would have to pass being engaged in hostilities. In 
 1790, Major Houghton, an officer who was acquainted with 
 the customs of the Mnors and Negroes, proceeded to Africa 
 under the auspices of the Association, and had made con • 
 siderable progress in the interior, when, after having been 
 treacherously plundered and left in the Desert, where he 
 endured severe privations, he reached Jarra, and died there 
 in September, 1791, it being strongly suspected that he wac 
 murdered. The next individual on whom the Association 
 fixed was Mungo Park, who proceeded to the river Gambia 
 in 1795 and thence set out into the interior. The groat 
 object accomplished during his journey was that of suc- 
 cessfully exploring the banks of the Niger, which had pre- 
 viously been considered identical with the river Senegal 
 In 1804, Park set out upon his second journey, which was 
 undertaken at the expense of the Government. The plan 
 of former travellers had been to accompany the caravans 
 from one part of the country to another; but in this ox 
 peditioc Park required a party of thirty-six Europoana 
 six of whom were to bo soamen and the remainder soldiers 
 it bein^ his intention, on reaching the Niger, to build two 
 vessels, and to follow with his party the course of tho river 
 If the Congo and the Niger were thii same stream, as was 
 then sr.pposcd, ho anticipated little difficulty in his onter- 
 piiso ; but if, as was also maintained, the Niger terminated 
 in swamps and morasses, many hardships and dangers wore 
 expccl3d iu their subsequent progress. Park at longtli 
 reaped tho Niger, accompanied only by seven of his party. 
 
606 SKETCH 07 AFRICAN DISCOVMir 
 
 all of whom were in a state of great weakness frooi the 
 effects of the climate. They built one vessel, and, on the 
 I7th of November; 1805, were ready to embark on the 
 river, previous to which Park sent despatches to England 
 His party was now reduced to five, his brother-in-law having 
 died a few days before. Park's spirit, however, remained 
 andannted. " Though all the Europeans who are with me 
 should die," said he, in his last letters to England, " and 
 though I myself were half dead, I would still persevere; 
 and, if I could not succeed in the object of my journey, I 
 would at least die in the Niger." He embarked, therefore, 
 with the intention of sailing down the river to its mouth, 
 wherever that might be ; but, after passing Timbuctoo and 
 several other cities, he was killed in the Niger, at a place 
 called Eoussa, a short distance below Yaouri. No part of 
 his journal after he left Sansanding has over been recovered. 
 In 1797, the African Association had engaged Mr. Home- 
 mann, a German, who left Cairo in September, 1798, with 
 the intention of carrying into effect the objects of the As- 
 sociation by proceeding as far southward and westward as 
 ne could get. In his last despatches he expressed himself 
 confident in being able to succeed in reaching a greater 
 distance into the interior than any other European traveller; 
 but, after reaching Bomou, no certain intelligence was ever 
 afterward heard concemiag him. Mr. Homomann learned 
 many particulars which had not before been known in 
 Europe respecting the countries to the e^at of Timbuctoo 
 Mr. NichoUs, who was next engaged, arrived in the Gulf 
 of Benin in November, 1804, and died soon afterward of 
 the fever of the country. Another German, Bcentzen, was 
 next sent to Africa. He had bestowed extraordinary pains 
 in making himself acquainted with the prevailincf language, 
 tnd, throwing off his costume, proceeded in the character 
 of a Mussulman, but unhappily was murdered by bis guides 
 on his way to Soudan. The next traveller sent out by the 
 Association was Burckhardt, a Swiss. He spent seveis) 
 years in acquiring a knowledge of the language and oustonu 
 
8K.KTCH OF AFRICAN DISCOVERT. 607 
 
 of the people ho intei^dod to visit, and, like Mr Eoontzen, 
 assumed the characteristics of a Mussulman. He died at 
 Cairo in 1817, his travels Jnaving boon chiefly confined to 
 the Abyssinian countries. 
 
 In 1816, an expedition vras sent out by the Government, 
 ander the command of Captain Tuckey, to the river Congo, 
 under the idea, in which Park coincided, that it and the 
 Niger were the same river. Captain Tuckey ascended the 
 Congo for about two hundred and eighty miles. At the 
 same time, Major Peddio, and, after his death, Captain 
 Campbell, proceeded from the mouth of the river Senegal 
 as far as Kakundy. In 1817, Mr. Bowdich explored the 
 countries adjoining Capo Coast Castle. In 1820, Mr. Jack- 
 son communicated an interesting account of the torritorios 
 of Timbuctoo and Houssa, from details which ho had col- 
 lecbod from a Mussulman merchant. In 1819 and in 1821, 
 the expeditions of Messrs. Eitchio and Lyon, and of Major 
 Laing, showed the strong and general interest on tho sub- 
 ject of African geography. In 1822, tho important expodi 
 tion under Major Denham and Lieut. Clapperton set forth. 
 After crossing the Desert, the travellers reached the great 
 inland sea or lake called tho Tchad, tho coasts of which to 
 the west and south wore examined by Major Denham. 
 This lake, from four hundred to six hundred feet above the 
 level of tho soa, is one of tho most remarkable features in 
 the physical geography of Africa. Lieut. Clapperton, in 
 the mean time, proceeded through tho kingdom of Bomon 
 and the country of the Fellatahs to Sockatoo, situated on a 
 stream supposed to run into the Niger. A great mass of 
 information respecting the countries eastward of Timbuctoo 
 was the result of his expedition. As to tho course of the 
 Niger, very little intelligence was obtained which could be 
 depended upon : the natives stated that it flowed into the 
 sea at Funda, though what place on the coast was meant 
 BtiU remained a conjecture. Soon after his return to Eng- 
 land, Clapperton was sent out by the Government to con- 
 duct a new expeditio i, and was directed to proceed to the 
 
608 SKETCH 0? AFRICAN DISCOVERT 
 
 Boeno of hiB former adrenturos. Having reached the N igei 
 at BouBsa, where Park was killed, ho passed through various 
 countries, and reached Sockatoo, where he died ; and Lan- 
 der, his friend and servant, commenced his return to Eng- 
 land with Clapperton's journals and papers. Major lining, 
 meanwhile, had visited Timbuctoo, and transmitted hom£ 
 accounts of this famous city, where he spent some weeks j 
 but on his return ho was murdered, and his papers have 
 never been recovered. We have not space to allude to the 
 many well-executed expeditions which have proceeded 
 from Capo Town for the purpose of exploring South 
 Africa, but have confined ourselves to those exertions which 
 had for their object the elucidation of the question concern 
 ing the course and termination of the Niger, and were con- 
 sequently directed to Central Africa. 
 
 The termination of the Niger had long been one of the 
 most interesting problems in African geography, and wo 
 have now reached the period when, on this point, facts 
 wore substituted for conjecture and hypothesis. The river 
 had first been seen by Park, near Sogo, the capital of £am- 
 barra. It was called by the natives the Joliba, or " Gre&i 
 Water ;" and Park described it as " flowing slowly to the 
 eastward." Ho followed the course of the river for about 
 three hundred miles, and was told that a journey of ten 
 days would bring him to its source. At Sockatoo, Lieut. 
 Glappcrton found that it was called the Quorra, by which 
 name it is known in the most recent maps, it having re- 
 ceived the name of the Niger, in the first instance, from ita 
 anppused identity with the Nigir of the ancients. The 
 want of information concerning the course and termination 
 of this mysterious river, until determined by actually pro- 
 ceeding down its channel to the sea, was, as may be snp- 
 posod, a fruitful source of speculation among geographers. 
 By Bomo it was supposed to flow into the Nile; otheis 
 imagined that a great cenf^l lake received its waters. 
 Major Bennel, an authority of great weight, came to the 
 QondoBion that, after passing Timbuctoo, the Niger flowed 
 
SKETOri OP APRIOAN DISOOVKaT. 609 
 
 a thouRand miles in an oastorly direction, and teiminsted 
 in a lake or swamp; others supported the opinion that its 
 waters were lost in the arid sands of the Desert; while the 
 Congo was said by many to bo its outlet. Major Laing, by 
 •scertaining the source of the Niger to be not more than 
 ■ixteen hundred feet above the level of the sea, proved that 
 •t could not flow into the Nile ; and Denham and Clappei- 
 ton demonstrated that it did not, as had been supposed, 
 discharge itself into the Lake of Bomou. 
 
 Hichard and John Lander, in 1830, under the auspices 
 of the British Government, solved the long-disputed problem 
 of the course of the Niger by sailing down on its waters 
 from Boussa to the ocean, whore it was found to terminate 
 in what was called the Nun, or First Brass Eiver, from the 
 negro town of Brass situated on its banks. 
 
 An expedition under the auspices of the British Govern- 
 ment, and headed by Dr. Henry Barth, attended by Dr. 
 Overborg and Mr. James Eichardson, was sent out in 1849 
 to prosecute discoveries in Northern Central Africa. Their 
 travels and researches into tho history and present btato of 
 the interior tribes were continued till 1855, and their results 
 have recently boon published by Dr. Barth. Dr. Ovorberg 
 died in 1854, and was buried on the shores of Lake Tchad 
 or Tsad. Mr. Sichardson also fell a victim to the climate 
 before the close of the expedition. 
 
 Dr. Barth visited the countries of Bomou, Kanem, Maa- 
 dara, Bagirmi, and others previously explored by Denham 
 and Clapperton, and carried his researches much iarther; 
 reaching tho eighth degree of north latitude. His volnmet 
 Qontain much curious and minute information. 
 
 The following extract from the preface gives a summary 
 of his travels : 
 
 "Extending over a tract of country of twenty-four degrees 
 from north to south, and twenty degrees from east to west, iv 
 
610 «(KETOH OF AFRICAN DISOOVEKT. 
 
 the broadest part of the continent of Africa, my traveiB neees- 
 sarily comprise subjects of great interest and diversity.. 
 
 " After having traversed vast deserts of the most barren sbll, 
 and scenes of the most frightful desolation, I met with fertile 
 lands irrigated by large navigable rivers and extensive central 
 lakes, ornamented with the finest timber, and producing vari- 
 ous species of grain, rice, sesamum, ground-nuts, in unlimited 
 abundance, the sugar-cane, Ac, together with cotton and 
 indigo, the most valuable commodities of trade. The whole 
 of Central Africa, from Bagirmi to the east as far as Timbnctn 
 to the west (as will be seen in my narrative), abounds in these 
 products. The natives of these regions not only weave their 
 own cotton, but dye their home-made shirts with their own 
 indigo. The river, the far-famed Niger, which gives access to 
 these regions by means of its eastern branch, the Benuwe, 
 which I discovered, affords an uninterrupted navigable sheet 
 of water for more than six hundred miles into the very heart 
 of the country. Its western branch is obstructed by rapids 
 at the distance of about three hundred and fifty miles from the 
 coast ; but even at that point it is probably not impassable in 
 the present state of navigation, while, higher up, the river 
 opens an immense high-road for nearly one thousand miles into 
 the very heart of Western Africa, so rich in every kind of 
 produce. 
 
 " The same diversity of soil and produce which the regions 
 traversed by me exhibit, is also observed with respect to man. 
 Starting from Tripoli in the north, we proceed from the settle 
 ments of the Arab and the Berber, the poor remnants of the 
 vast empires of the middle ages, into a country dotted with 
 splendid ruins from the period of the Roman dominion, through 
 the wild roving hordes of the Tawarek, to the Negro and half- 
 Negro tribes, and to the very border of the Sonth Africas 
 nations. In the regions of Central Africa there exists not one 
 and the same stock, as in Sonth Africa, but the greatest diver- 
 sity of tribes, or rather nations, prevails, with idioms entirely 
 distinct. " 
 
o 
 
 O 
 
 Q 
 O 
 
 5 
 P 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 H 
 
 o 
 
 
 \ « 
 
 
 :V 
 
 *■ •^ 
 
 
SKETCH OP APaiOAN DISCOVERY. Q\g 
 
 The results of Dr. Livingstone's last voyages of es:plo< 
 ration have greatly increased our knowledge of Southern 
 and Central Africa, as will readily be seen by the readers 
 of this volume, in which the condensation of these results 
 have been given. Of course the chief objects which attract 
 at first the attention of explorers, are the broad geographi- 
 cal features of the countrj', the course of its rivers, the 
 mountain ranges, and all matters which come more par- 
 ticularly under the head of physical geography. The 
 mineral deposits, or the agricultural advantages of a coun- 
 try are, as a rule, discovered only after a more minute in- 
 vestigation of its natural conditions than it is jjossible for 
 an explorer to make. The field of Africa has, however, 
 been opened, and the recent discoveries in South Africa of 
 deposits of diamonds has attracted immigration, such as 
 the modern world has seen attracted to California and 
 Australia, by the discovery of the gold deposits in these 
 two countries. As in both of these cases, the attraction of 
 a large population from the civilized portions of the world, 
 has brought together specialists of various kinds, and a 
 wide spread and scientific examination of the territory has 
 led to the discovery of various other sources of wealth. 
 In South Africa, near Cape Town, deposits of gold, silver, 
 copper, lead, and coal, the most important mineral deposit, 
 since it affords the power absolutely necessary for our 
 modern industry, have been found. Perhaps the most 
 startling of these instances of modern discoveries is that 
 of the diamond fields of South Africa. It is impossible to 
 accurately estimate the number of diamonds which have 
 thus been thrown into the circulation of the world's wealth, 
 but it is something enormous, and hitherto in the modern 
 world's history unprecedented. Our illustration of the 
 works at New Rush, or Colesberg Kopje, will give a better 
 idea of the manner in, which this new and singular industry 
 is conducted, than pages of mere description could da 
 Kopje means hillock, and an idea can best be formed of this 
 spot by iau^ning a gigantic mole-hill. 
 
614 SKETCH OF AraiCAN DISCOVEET. 
 
 "When diamonds were flrst found here, the land was free 
 to any one to search over, but the news of their discovery- 
 led to the influx of such a large body of persons, to engage 
 in this work, that, as in California and Australia, the right 
 of private property began soon to assert itself, and claims 
 began immediately to rise in value, until a good one, thirty 
 feet square, commands already $15,000. 
 
 Already about Kopje is gathered a population of about 
 forty thousand people. The tents which they have erected 
 for their accommodation are seen in the distance in our 
 illustration. The New Rush is eight hundred yards wide, 
 with eight parallel roads running through it, along which 
 the dirt from the excavations below is carted away. At 
 first there was no organization of the labor, and no arrange- 
 ment by which the private interests of those engaged in it 
 should be prevented from becoming detrimental to the pub- 
 lic welfare. In consequence, the private excavations have 
 been carried on as far, or in some cases, farther, than either 
 safety or a fair prospect for profit dictated, and without 
 any regard for preserving tne roads. In many cases, also, 
 these roadwajj-s were left so narrow tliat there was hardly 
 room for two carts to pass, and now they are really dan- 
 gerous, having become, as they are, narrow causewaysi, 
 seventy or eighty feet high, and being unstayed or sup- 
 ported by any but the most temporary appliances. 
 
 This place. New Rush, is the only one which is still 
 considered as a profitable spot for diamond digging. 
 Other places, as Hebron, Phiel, Klipdrift and Du Toifs 
 Pan, have been chiefly exhausted, and diamond digging 
 there requires too much patience to suit such an adven- 
 turous class as generally engage in speculative labor of 
 this kind. 
 
 The gold fields are about three hundred miles from the 
 banks of the Vaal, and the last town on the outskirts of 
 civilization is Pretonia, about one hundred and fifty mile« 
 from Vaal. With the attention which has thus been called 
 te Africa, the next twenty years will most probably lead 
 
SKETCH OF APEIOAN DISCOVERT. 615 
 
 to such explorations as will not only give us a complete 
 knowledge of its physical features, but also lead to an 
 organized introduction of civilization into this country, 
 and an orderly development of its resources through the 
 appliances of modern industry. 
 
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 Memoirs oi' the Queeists of Fkance. "Writ- 
 
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 Heroic "Womeist of History. Containing the 
 
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