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CORNELL 
 
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 BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME 
 OF THE SAGE ENDOWMENT 
 FUND GIVEN IN 1891 BY 
 
 HENRY WILLIAMS SAGE 
 
TWO YEABS IN PERU. 
 
LONDON" : 
 
 GILBEET AND EIVINGTON, TEINTEES, 
 
 ST. JOHN'S SQUAEE. 
 
Fionlispiecc. 
 
TWO YEAES IN PEEU, 
 
 BXPLOEATION OF ITS ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 BT 
 
 THOMAS J. HUTCHINSON, F.R.G.S., F.R.S.L., M.A.I. 
 
 TICE-PBBSn)EirT Ti'nOSSEVB. DE 1,*INSHTUT D'aFBIQITE, PABIS; 
 
 FOBEIGir ASSOCIATE OP THE FALBOlfTOLOGICAI. SOCIBTY OF BUENOS ATBBS ; 
 
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 WITH MAP BY DANIEL BARRERA, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 VOL. I. 
 
 ILoitBon : 
 SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, & SEARLE, 
 
 CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 
 1878. 
 
 (All rights reserved.) 
 
TO HIS EXCELLEKCr 
 
 SEKOR DON MANUEL PARDO, 
 
 PEESIDENT OF THE B.EPUBLIO OP PEEU, 
 
 THE ADVOCATE OF PBOGEESS, — SCIENTIFIC, INDtTSTEIAL, AND 
 COMMEECIAI,, 
 
 AS WELL AS THE INAUGTmATOE OP A KEW EEA IS THE 
 GOVEEiriLEirT OF HIS COUKTET, 
 
 THESE PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, 
 
 EY HIS OBEDIENT, HUMBLE SEEVANT, 
 
 THE AUTHOE. 
 
PEEFACE. 
 
 So many works have been written and published 
 about Peru — from the MSS. of the lawyer Polo 
 de Ondegardo, a.d. 1560, and the fabulous trum- 
 peting in the Commentaries of Garcilasso Inca de 
 la Vega, a.d. 1609, down to the " goody-goody " 
 pages of Dr. Baxley, in 1865 — that another may 
 be considered a superfluity. 
 
 But Peru has still, within her territory, a mine 
 of arch^ological lore, as inexhaustible as her 
 treasures of silver and gold. Every one, there- 
 fore, who can add his share to the general stock, 
 helps, as Mr. Gladstone happily expresses it, " to 
 piece together, as children do with a pattern 
 map, the fragmentary annals of the past," and 
 needs no excuse for presenting his mite to the 
 public. 
 
Vm PREFACE. 
 
 Sucli an immense amount of error, and ex- 
 aggeration has been pressed into nearly every 
 volume on Peru which I have read, that- 1 find 
 it dijG&cult to guess, where imagination ends, and 
 reality begins. The whole aim and end of the 
 early Spanish writers seem to have been to puif 
 the Incas as so many " inimitable Crichtons " — to 
 represent them as grand, and perfect in everything 
 — in the discipKne of their government, their 
 laws, hospitality, arts, and unlimited treasures of 
 gold, as well as silver. I do not insinuate they 
 did this to attribute more glory to the few hundred 
 soldiers under Pizarro, who subdued the Inca 
 empire. But in doing it, they tried to wipe out 
 all knowledge of the tribes, who occupied Peru 
 previous to the Inca period. So that it is chiefly 
 from what we see of theii- architectm-e, and then- 
 fine arts, that we have any knowledge of these 
 prehistoric people, nearly all of whose works 
 are erroneously credited to the Incas. All these 
 golden treasures from Chan-Chan, wrought by 
 the Chimoos ; the exquisitely dyed cloth from the 
 burying-ground at Huacho ; the great forts erected 
 behind the modern Trujillo, as well as those at 
 Chatuna, near San Jose, — at Paramunca, — in the 
 
PREFACE. IX 
 
 Huatica valley, within a few miles of Lima, — at 
 Pacha- Camac, Oanete, and several other places — 
 are set down by every one to the credit of the 
 Incas. Whilst the latter had no more to do with 
 them, except in hastening their destruction, than 
 any of my readers has had to do with the build- 
 ing of ancient and historic Troy. 
 
 It may be scarcely necessary for me to state 
 that, when I first went to Peru in April, 1871, I 
 was in the Inca groove, like most people who take 
 an interest in Peruvian literature. But as soon as 
 I examined, — inquired, — observed, — ^by traveUing 
 along the coast from Arica to San Jose — a sea- 
 board of beyond a thousand and ten miles — 
 interior farther than Arequipa, — to lea, — through 
 the Jejetepeque valley, — and up to Ma9hucana, 
 I felt convinced that the relics of art and archi- 
 tecture, between the first line of Cordilleras and 
 the Pacific, belong to a time far and away before 
 that of the Incas. Moreover, there appears to 
 me no evidence of the Incas having ever done 
 anything in the parts just named, but to destroy 
 and blot out. The reputed Temples of the Sun, 
 behind Trujillo and at Pacha-Camac — both visited 
 by me — I believe to be mythical as to accredited 
 
X PEBFACE. 
 
 character ; and the fortress at Paramunca (in the 
 absence of further proof than the ipse dixit of Gar- 
 cilasso de la Vega, or Dr. Mariano Edward Rivero) 
 I cannot consider as ever having been built to cele- 
 brate the Inca's victory over the King of the Chi- 
 moos, but to have been erected and garrisoned 
 by the Chimoos themselves. An accurate exa- 
 mination of the large forts, as well as the colossal 
 huacas — rivals with the pyramids of Egypt — in 
 the neighbourhood of Lima, confirms me more 
 and more in these points of faith. But every 
 reader 7?ill, of course, claim the privilege to judge 
 for himself, from the facts that I place before 
 him. 
 
 I therefore confine myself, as much as possible, 
 in the following pages to what came under my own 
 personal observation ; — rigidly avoiding that ten- 
 dency to gasconade, and magnify, which the 
 proximity of the towering Andes seems to com- 
 municate, by endemic sympathy, to all those who 
 come within the influence of their shadows. 
 
 For the indefatigable aid, and assistance, in my 
 explorations, rendered by my young friend Mr. J. B. 
 Steer, who, as a naturalist, was travelling for the 
 University of Michigan — and a proud Alma Mater 
 
PREFACE. XI 
 
 it should be too if it have many sons such as he ! 
 — I cannot find words to express my thanks. He 
 accompanied me through the Huatica valley, as 
 well as amongst the ruins about Ohosica, and at 
 Pacha- Camac, — doing such work with the pick- 
 axe and spade as only a man of iron constitution, 
 and with sympathies in the task, could do. 
 
 To Doctor Don Antonio Raimondi, of Lima — 
 one of the most eminent scientists in Peru — I am 
 deeply indebted, for the loan of numerous works 
 of reference, and objects of Art from the Museum 
 of the Pacultad de Medicina, as from his own 
 private collection. For a like obligation, I return 
 my thinks to Senor Don Miceno Espantoso, 
 one of the directors of the National Bank of 
 Peru. 
 
 The excellent photographs, taken especially for 
 this work, by Mr. V. L. Richardson, of Lima, 
 ■v^tII speak for themselves. The same may be 
 said of the pencil sketches, — chiefly of ruins in 
 the Huatica valley, — by a young artist, native 
 of Bolivia, Senor Don Jose Maria Zaballa. And 
 lastly, the etchings of Pacha-Camac, by Mr. 
 John Schumaker, of Valparaiso, must not be 
 forgotten. 
 
xii PEEFACE. 
 
 There are two coincidences in this work on which 
 I desire to remark here. The first refers to the 
 fact of having introduced amongst the chapters 
 about Callao, considerable extracts of my reports 
 on its trade — that for 1870-71, as well as that for 
 1872 — although these were published amongst the 
 Commercial Eeports fi-om her Majesty's Consuls, 
 received at the Foreign Office, and presented by 
 command of the Queen to both Houses of Parlia- 
 ment. I have made this transfer as well, — because 
 they are the first Consular Reports on the subject 
 of trade in Callao, that were published up to the 
 time of their appearance in the respective dates 
 named, — as that I hope to introduce the features 
 of Peruvian commerce to a wider circle of readers, 
 than is generally supposed to be conversant with 
 the Hterature of Blue Books. 
 
 By the second I have to explain, that some 
 articles from my pen, inserted in the Galldo and 
 Lima Gazette, as well as in the South Pacific Times, 
 during my residence in Peru, have been introduced 
 into the parts of this work, to which they corre- 
 spond. Of these newspapers — so useful to the 
 English-speaking community, as to the interests 
 of Peru (at home and abroad) — the latter-named 
 
PREFACE. XUl 
 
 supplanted the former ; and both were established 
 by Mr. Lawton during my residence in Callao. 
 But all the extracts taken * therefrom (except 
 where quoted in the usual orthodox mode, with 
 inverted commas), are limited to my own con- 
 tributions, and in every article, where needed, are 
 abridged or corrected. 
 
 To conclude. Peru, under the administration 
 of her citizen President, has entered on a new era. 
 The coming to power of a man so enlightened as 
 Don Manuel Pardo, and the annihilation of the 
 military despotism, which has hitherto kept the 
 Eepublic in the background, are hopeful presages. 
 "With these we have the daily-increasing com- 
 mercial spirit, chiefly called into life by the 
 Pacific Steam Navigation Company's able, and in- 
 defatigable manager, Mr. George Petrie. Through 
 the inexhaustible energy and enterprise of Mr. 
 Henry Meiggs, Peru has a greater length 
 of railways than any other South American 
 Republic, or even than Brazil. She has reformed 
 municipahties, — made gi'ants for bringing out 
 schoolmasters from Europe, — is putting forth 
 educational and scienrific schemes, — proposes out- 
 lay for immigration purposes, — and through Con- 
 
XIV I'JiEFACE. 
 
 gress, as well as her Executive, is presenting to 
 tlie world the tout-cnsemhle of a regenerating 
 progress, — needing only the security of permanent 
 tranquillity to make her hold a primary position 
 amongst the nations of the world. 
 
 London, November 1st, 1873. 
 
CONTENTS OF VOL. I. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 Outward from Liverpool. — ^Unusual smootliness of the Irish 
 Channel and Bay of Biscay. — To Bordeatix, Lishon, and Eio 
 de Janeiro. — Passing the Eio de la Plata, and entering the 
 Straits of Magellan. — ^Ija Colonia. — -Patagonians and Puegians. 
 — Peculiarities of scenery passed through. — Colonia or Punta 
 Arenas. — Muider of British sailors. — ^ilissionary enterprise at 
 Tierra del Puego. — Admiral Fitzroy's description of the na- 
 tives. — Gold at Colonia. — Civilization of boots. — ^Beauty of 
 mountains and of glaciers. — ^Ancient explorers. — Loss of pre- 
 historic Indian titles. — Reductio ad abswrdum of Darby 
 Cove . . 1 — 15 
 
 CHAPTER IL 
 
 JVIisnomer of Pacific. — Geographical extent of Chile. — Chiloo 
 and adjoining Archipelagos. — Valdivia and Lord Cochrane's 
 bravery. — Coronel and the coal mines at Lota. — The Arauco 
 country and the Araucanian tribes. — Arrival at Valparaiso. 
 — Its bombardment by the Spanish squadron in 1866. — 
 Earthquakes in Valparaiso. — Cleanliness of the citj'. — ^The 
 Eesguardo, Exchange, and tramwaj''. — Foreigners' club-house 
 and market-place. — Drive to the railway station. — The 
 Estero de las Delicias.- — Excellent arrangements of this station. 
 — Scarcity of water in Valparaiso. — Waterworks established 
 by Mr. William Wheelwright. — EaUway traffic trebled since 
 1S55. — First triumph of Mr. Henry Meiggs . 16 — -31 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Trip to Santiago, the capital. — Stations of Quilpua, Limache, 
 and Quillota. — Ormskirk and Shxewsbuiy reminiscences. — 
 The Maqui bridge and tunnel. — Entrance to Santiago. — The 
 Southern railroad and baths. — Poplar-trees everywhere. — 
 Square squares. — The Alemada. — Zoological Gardens. — The 
 Museum and its fluffy birds. — Cathedral and arcades. — 
 Burning of Jesuits' Church in 1863. — Monument. — Burning 
 of theatre. — Atrocious insult to Charles Dickens. — Foundation 
 of Santiago in a.d. 1541. — The Mapocho Indians destroy 
 it. — What they left behind. — Connexion of Earl Dun- 
 donald with Chile. — Bravery of his eldest son. — Attempted 
 assassination of Lady Cochrane. — Seizing treasure of San 
 Martin's. — Eeinstatement in his former honours by Queen 
 Victoria . . 32 — 45 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 From Valparaiso northwards. — Chilian labourers. — Approaching 
 Peruvian boundary-line. — Mr. Squier's description of its 
 peculiar physique. — Explanation by Senor Eaimondy of rain 
 never falling on the coast of Peru. — Trade of Iquique. — 
 Exports therefrom. — Tarapaca province. — Railways from 
 Iquique to JSToria. — jSTew export law of saltpetre. — ^Aiica and 
 its last earthquake. — Consul Nugent's account of the catas- 
 trojihe. — Wave fifty feet high. — Corresponding earthquakes 
 elsewhere. — The dead forced out of their graves. — Ships driven 
 on shore. — Relief to the sufferers. — Tacna railway. — Ho and 
 Moquegua railway . . . 46 — 67 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Towards Cuzco. — Grandeur of its edifices. — General Miller's 
 description. — Stories about gold. — Ancient roads mentioned 
 by Prescott. — Modern railroads made by Mr. Heni-y Meiggs. 
 — From MoUondo to Areqnipa. — Lively night at hotel in 
 MoUendo. — Concession for the Arequipa railroad. — From 
 Ensenada onwards. — Steep gorge. — Pampa of Cachenda.— 
 
CONTENTS. XVU 
 
 Large amount of rolling-stock. — Valley of Tambo and station. 
 — Quebrada of Caliuntula, — Serpentine curves. — Station of 
 Vitor. — La Joya. — Sand-heaps. — Huasamayo. — Onishuarani. 
 — Watering-place of Arequipa. — Tingo. — Sachaka . 68 — 85 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 At Arequipa. — Excellence of its station arrangements. — Hotels of 
 Arequipa. — The Soroche and Surumpi. — Earefied atmosphere. 
 — Earthquaky look of Arequipa. — Appearance of cathedral — 
 Number of monasteries. — Heavy rains here. — The lilisti vol- 
 cano. — The Sillar trachyte. — Celebrated men of Arequipa. — 
 Derivation of its name. — Story of first settlement. — Eailways 
 of Mr. Henry Meiggs. — E«fiections on their success. — From 
 Arequipa on the road to Puno. — Mineral wells of Yura. — 
 Station of Quisco or Aguas Calientes. — Hospital here. — 
 Magnetic stone at Caechipestane .... 86 — 100 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 Return from Arequipa. — Erom Mollendo northwards. — Islay. — 
 Exports thence. — The Chincha people. — The Chincha Islands. 
 — Idols found here at depths of thirty-five feet, and sixty-two 
 feet under guano. — Guesses at the antiquity of these. — Royal 
 emblems from under the guano. — ^First discovery of guano on 
 the Chincha Islands. — Pisco railway. — ^Pisco town. — Mono- 
 tony of railroad to lea. — Peruvian sandwich. — Buiial-mounds 
 at lea. — Urn with disarticulated skeleton. — Eoundation of 
 lea. — Aqueducts of the aborigines, falsely attributed to Incas. 
 Garcilasso de la Vega. — First coast invasion of the Incas made 
 in the valley of lea. — Silver work of art from lea 101 — 127 
 
 CHAPTER VIIL 
 
 The valley of Chincha. — Tambo de Mora and Canete. — Cerro 
 de Azul roadstead. — Chuquimancu sugar estates in Caenet 
 valley. — Necessity of exploring the ruins about here. — Crea- 
 tion of Society of Fine Arts by President'Pardo. — Exhuminj:; 
 VOL. I. a 
 
Xviii CONTENTS. 
 
 skulls from the Cerro del Oro.— Particulars of things got out. 
 — Bosina, or shell-trumpet.— Eide through the Cafiete vaUe3^ 
 —Chinese lahourers here.— Their joss-houses.— Prescott's 
 opinion of GarcOasso de la Vega.— Progress of the invading 
 Incas through Cafiete vaUey.— Huarcu and Eunahuanac— 
 Eeputed Inca fortress at Hervay.— Olives from Seville- 
 Vessels of Pacific Steamship Company.— Limits of Callao 
 jurisdiction 128—146 
 
 CHAPTEE rX. 
 
 Inca progress to Pacha-Camac and Eimac. — Account of it hy 
 Garcilasso de la Vega.— Cuys ilancu, or Hatun Apu, Lord 
 of Pacha-Camac, and valleys adjacent— Temples of Pacha- 
 Camac, and Delphic Oracle of the Eimac. — Message sent to 
 Cuys Mancu. — Machiavellianism of the Licas. — Craft of 
 Cupac Yupanqui.— Treaty of the Licas -with the Yunca cliiefs. 
 — Conditions of same. — Unconditional surrender of Cuys 
 Mancu. — ^The Devil coming to have a finger in the pie. — 
 Cieza de Leon.— Author's visit to Pacha-Camac. — Cyclopean 
 work. — Mr. Steer's tracking. — Evidence of niches for idols, as 
 of sacrificial fires, in supposed Temple of the Sun. — Skulls 
 with sutures in the frontaL bones. — General conglomeration 
 of ruins. — Unsatisfactory results. — What Stevenson says of 
 Pacha-Camac. — Wonderful messengers . . 147 — 176 
 
 CHAPTEE X. 
 
 Callao Bay. — Earl Dundonald and the island of San Lorenzo. — 
 Cutting out of the "Esmeralda." — The concrete works of 
 ilr. Hodges. — Pacific Steam Navigation Company. — First 
 appearance of steamboat on the Pacific. — Earliest report of 
 Pacific Steam Navigation Company in 1843. — Hardihood of 
 directors. — Present status of Company. — Organization in 
 Callao. — Programme of sailing.^. — Large trade created by it. — 
 Additional steam hues. — Floating-dock of Callao. — Original 
 establifliment. — Utility to Pacific shipping.- — Muelle y Dar- 
 sena (mole and dock) : great work of Brassey and Co. — CaUao 
 
CONTENTS. XIX 
 
 trade for 1872. — Imports and exports.- — Guano existing in 
 deposits. — Amount of supply for future. — No fear of Govern- 
 ment securities. — 'New discoveries of nitrates and of silver 
 mines.-— Immense increase of Custom-liouse receipts. — Port 
 dues 177—218 
 
 CHAPTEE XL 
 The " Painter " at Callao. — ^Its different appearances. — Analysis 
 of water during its existence. — ^Extent of " Painter " on the 
 whole coast of Peru. — Author's observations of appearances of 
 water. — Frezier's writings ahout Callao. — Earthquake of 1746. 
 — Number of convents and of chapels. — ^Dreadful effects of 
 earthquake. — On shore at Callao. — Lima and Callao raik-oad. 
 Club at CaUao.— The royal fort. — Its great size and extent. — 
 Eight for independence. — Bombardment of CaUao by Spanish . 
 fleet in 1866. — The native hospital in Callao. — Eevenue of 
 33enificencia Society. — Hospital tax on shipping. — Silver in 
 Peru. — ^Misfortunes of 1868. — Parish of Santa Eosa. — La 
 Punta 219—240 
 
 CHAPTEE XIL 
 Hygiene of Callao. — Mr. Paz Soldan's calculations of increase of 
 population. — Mortality at the native hospital. — Excess of 
 deaths over births in the town. — Census of population. — 
 Chinese immigration. — ^Mortality of Chinese immigrants in 
 the middle passage dining the last decade. — Mortality of 
 same in 1871 and 1872. — Law of Congress prohibiting 
 Chinese immigration in 1856. — Its reauthorization by Con- 
 gress in 1861. — Particulars of contracts. — Mission of Peruvian 
 embassy to China. — Existing convention between Peru and 
 Portugal, touching emigration from Macao. — Coolie immi- 
 gration to the West Indies.- — Sir G. Young's paper on the 
 subject. — Difference of mortality in Guiana and CaUao. — 
 Speculators in the Chinese immigration. — National Company 
 of Navigation.- — Its intended extensive monopoly. — Decree 
 revoking the concession. — New bUl for import duties. — 
 Monopoly of nitrate of soda. — Guano from Mejillones. — 
 General resume of lailroads in Peru. — Drainage of Callao by 
 
 ,Mr. Clarke 241—269 
 
 a 2 
 
XX CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTEE XIIL 
 
 From Callao through the Huatica valley. — Bella Vista.— 
 Viceroy's palace. — Custom-hoiise stores. — Spasmodic eiTorts to 
 make suhiirban residences. — Euins of old city of Huatica. — 
 Euins of castles, temples, and fortresses. — Senor Cerdoni's 
 pamphlet about water-supply. — Tracking the Pando hurial- 
 mouiid (huaca) by Mr. Steer.— Measurements convei^ng to 
 multiples of 12. — Extraordinary dimensions. — Made up of 
 small sun-dried bricks. — Masses dislodged by earthquake. — No 
 notice of these things by Eivero. — Huaca de la Campana 
 (Marengo or Arambolu). — Legend about this mound. — Cha- 
 racteristic features of architecture. — Filled up with earth. — 
 Fortress entitled San Miguel. — Adjacent temple. — "Wedge- 
 shaped walls. — ^Fortresses to protect old city and burial-ground. 
 — Ancient temple of Delphic Oracle Eimac . 270 — 286 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Fortresses near Senor Osma's quinta. — Fortress of Garmendi. — 
 Village of Magdalena. — Euins of temple in four groups. — 
 All filled lip with clay. — Eelics of Eimac temple. — Immense 
 extent of enclosure. — Turkey-buzzards amongst the ruins. — 
 Country residence of Viceroy here. — Eailroad from Lima to 
 IMagdalena. — Inconoclastic barbaritj'. — Bad roads. — ^Warra- 
 cochee Castle. — Chacra of Conde de San Isidro. — Painting of 
 San Isidro. — "Winged Seraph at the plough. — Burial-mound 
 of Pan de Azucar. — Partial" exploration of it^ — Articles found. 
 — Senor Eaimondy's opinion. — Measurement of this huaca. — 
 
 Burial-mound of Juliana (Ocharan). — Enormous structure. 
 
 Multiples of 12 repeated. — Enclosure of half a million square 
 yards, or 1 1 7 acres. — Mr. Steer's calculations. — Adobes formincr 
 the mound. — Cave of hermit burned by the Inquisition in 
 lC73.—MiraFlores.—Chorillos.— The friar's leap.— The here- 
 ditary donltej^s —Central part of ChoriUos . . 287 303 
 
 CHAPTEE XV. 
 
 Lima.— The "City of the Kings." — jSTumber of authors who have 
 described it.— Foundation by Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror. 
 
CONTENTS. XXI 
 
 — Its foi-mer wealth. — Streets paved with blocks of silver. — 
 Confounding calculations. — Knocking down of the old walls. 
 — Boulevards made by Mr. Henry Meiggs. — Want of fire- 
 places in Peruvian houses. — Principal plaza and cathedral of 
 Lima. — Body of Pizarro in the vaults. — Doubts of its genuine- 
 ness. — Place of assassination of Pizarro. — Palace of the 
 Executive. — ^Plaza de la Independencia. — Bolivar's statue. — 
 Chambers of senators and deputies. — ^House of the Inquisition. 
 — University of San Marcos. — Foundation in a.d. 1576. — 
 Mint in Lima, — Large number of chapels. — English kings 
 doing duty for Incas. — Penitentiary. — Public buildings of 
 Lima. — Its bad hygiene. — Dr. Baxley's opinions of the im- 
 morality of Lima. — Author's contradiction of it. — Saya y 
 Manta. — Literary ladies in Lima . . . ' 304 — 330 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 Exhibition Palace at Lima. — Inaugurated in President Balta's 
 time of oEfice.— Delays in opening. — Doctor Fuentes, the 
 presiding genius. — Situation of the Palace. — Description of 
 contents, and of adjacent grounds. — Lack of archeeological 
 subjects exhibited. — Mummies at Exhibition. — Magnificent 
 painting by Peruvian artist, Montferos, of the waking of 
 Atahualpa. — Death of the artist of yellow fever in 1868. 
 — Luis Medina's statues of Indian man and woman. — 
 Excellence of execution. — Mosaic tables from Ecuador. — 
 "Wonderful clock by Major Don Pedro Euiz. — Condors in 
 the garden. — Huacas or burial-mounds outside the walls. — 
 Obscure antiquity side by side with modem civilization. — 
 View of Callao from top of the Palace. — Absence of President 
 Balta from the ©iDening ceremony. — Political storms fore- 
 shadowed . 331—343 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Portrait of President Pardo .... Frontispiece 
 
 Map of Peru ....:... — 
 
 Straits of Magellan 12 
 
 View of Crooked Eeacli in passing tlirough Straits . . 14 
 Valparaiso after Spanish. Bombardment of 1866 . . 25 
 Eesguardo at the Mole, Valparaiso. . .. . .27 
 
 Plaza where Statue of Earl Dundonald is erected . . 28 
 Macqui Bridge on Valparaiso and Santiago EaUway . 33 
 
 Outside View of Santiago City . . . .34 
 
 Burning of Jesuit Church in Santiago .... 38 
 
 Monument of the same ... . .39 
 
 Arica the day before Earthquake of 1868 . . 64 
 
 Aiica the day after ditto 66 
 
 Barricade in Arequipa during Siege of 1867 ... 86 
 Arequipa after Earthquake of 1868 . . . . 90 
 
 Stone Idol from under Guano at Chincha Islands . 104 
 
 "Wooden Idol from do. do. . .105 
 
 Another of same do. do. . . 108 
 
 Eegal Emblems from under Guano . . . 107 
 
 Mummy from Pisco . . .... 113 
 
 Silver Badge from lea 126 
 
 Terra-Cotta Mask from Canete 133 
 
 Bosiua (Trumpet-sheU), front view 134 
 
 The same, back view 135 
 
 Wooden Idol from Burial Mound at Canete . .139 
 
 Prehistoric Crockery ware from ditto . . . .144 
 General View of Pacha-Camae - . . . .157 
 
 Ruins of reputed Temple of Sun . . . . .169 
 Articles excavated at Pacba-Camac . ... 160 
 
XXIV 
 
 ILLnSTRATIONS. 
 
 View on East Side of Euins at PacLa-Camac . 
 
 Same on West Side of ditto 
 
 Plan of Callao Bay 
 
 Plan of CaUao Town and Neighbourlipod 
 
 Callao before tke Earthquake of 1746 
 
 In Eront of Entrance to Royal Fortress in Callao 
 
 Plan of Huatica Valley ..... 
 
 Euined Walls of Ancient Huatica City 
 
 West View of Pando Huaca . 
 
 East View of same ..... 
 
 View of Brick- work on top of Pando Huaca 
 
 Part of Pando Huaca disturbed by Earthquake 
 
 Euins of Arambolu Fortress .... 
 
 Sketch of same taken on the summit 
 
 Euins of small Fort close to San Miguel 
 
 Euins of Temple in the vicinity of San Miguel 
 
 Euins of Fortress adjacent to Senor Osma's Quinta 
 
 Euins of another of the same kind . 
 
 Part of Double WaU enclosing Temple of Eimac 
 
 Portion of Euins of Temple of Eimac 
 
 Small Fortress to left of Eimac Temple . 
 
 Sugar-loaf Huaca at Conde de San Isidro 
 
 Burial Mound of Juliana (Ocharan). 
 
 Sketch on top of Burial Mound (do.) 
 
 Cave of Hermit burned bj^ Inquisition in 1673 
 
 Malecon (or Promenade) at Choiillos 
 
 Cathedral of Lima 
 
 Front of Pizarro's Palace 
 
 Statue of Bolivar . . 
 
 Bridge of Lima 
 
 Penitentiary of Lima 
 
 Dress of Lima Ladies (Saya y Mauta) 
 
 The same (Tapada) 
 
 Principal Entrance to Lima Crystal Palace 
 
 Exhibition Palace and Grounds 
 
 Mummies at the Exhibition 
 
 Gypsum Statue of Indian Woman . 
 
 The same of Indian Man 
 
 PAGE 
 
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TWO YEAES IN PEHU. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Outward from LiverpooL — Unusual smoothness of the Irish 
 Channel, and Bay of Biscay. — ^To Bordeaux, Lishon, and Eio 
 de Janeiro. — Passing the Eio de la Plata, and entering the 
 Straits of Magellan. — Patagonians and Puegians. — ^Pecu- 
 liarities of scenery passed through. — La Colonia or Punta 
 Arenas. — Murder of British Sailors. — ^Missionary enterprise at 
 Tierra del Fuego. — Admiral Fitzroy's description of the Ifatives. 
 — Grold at Colonia. — Civilization of hoots. — ^Beauty of moun- 
 tains and of glaciers. — ^Ancient Explorers. — Loss of pre-historic 
 Indian titles. — Reductio ad absurdum of Darby Cove. 
 
 OuTWAED bound from Liverpool on the 1st of 
 March, 1871, in that fast and commodious vessel, 
 the Pacific Steam Navigation Company's fine 
 steamer " Cordillera," it -was very diflScult to 
 realize, during the few early days of .our voyage, 
 that -we were speeding through the generally- 
 troubled waters of the Irish Channel, and across 
 the dread Bay of Biscay. 
 
 All my previous passages of nineteen (to and 
 from England in relation with Western Africa and 
 South America) had been made in these latitudes, 
 under the accompaniments (in a greater or less 
 
 VOL. I. B 
 
2 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [OHAP. I. 
 
 degree) of equinoctial gales, head-winds, and 
 stormy seas, with their invai'iable sequence to me 
 of sea-sickness. The smooth ocean, therefore, 
 seemed now to be quite another element. How 
 some of the new hands doubted on the morning of 
 the third day, when, anchor being cast for a few 
 hours in the river Garonne, six miles below 
 PauiUac, to communicate with Bordeaux, as they 
 talked over Dickens's graphic account of sea- 
 sickness in his "American Notes." And the 
 majority came to the conclusion that, if the 
 account of Boz referred to any state of affairs in 
 that Atlantic, of which we had had three days' trial, 
 his description was onlyas much of a romance as any 
 of the marvels of Baron Munchausen, or the extra- 
 vaganzas of Lilliput. Such a condition, they said, 
 as was described of the "head-wind,"' under 
 which the novelist suffered, was simply a physical 
 impossibility in the unruflB.ed water, over which 
 they had just passed from Liverpool. 
 
 From the Garonne to Lisbon we touch at the 
 Spanish port of Santander — a wild-looking region, 
 with the hiUs of Bilbao to the north, and those of 
 Asturias to the south — whilst, as if in punishment 
 of premature presumption, the " Cordillera " had 
 twenty-four hours of regular Atlantic acrobatting 
 between Santander and Lisbon : so much so, in- 
 deed, that not a few of the doubters felt disposed 
 to believe in Dickens after all. 
 
 ' "American Xotes," Philadelphia Edition, p. 20. 
 
CHAP. I.] TIEERA DEL PUEGO. 3 
 
 The Pacific Company's steamers call at San- 
 tander — chiefly for the purpose of bringing out 
 Basque, Italian, and French emigrants to the River 
 Plate. Prom Lisbon, too, they carry no small 
 contingencies of the Latin elements in the same 
 direction. 
 
 The journey to equatorial latitudes, with its 
 trade- winds, tornadoes, and flying fish; its phos- 
 phorescence of the sea by night, with general 
 monotony during the day; the effiect of the sun's 
 great heat as well as extent of water, bounded by 
 the bright blue sky; and the small speck of our 
 steamer in such an immensity ; have been so often 
 described as not to need being repeated. The 
 magnificent bay of Rio de Janeiro, the next place 
 of stoppage, is familiar to aU travellers in the 
 South Atlantic. Lower down, too, in the Rio de 
 la Plata territories,^ the run of enthusiastic 
 " gentle shepherds " and aspiring colonists has, 
 for some years, made the Platine countries a 
 beaten track. But when we pass the La Plata, 
 with its broad embouchure of 300 miles across, and 
 approach the Patagonian region, — the mysterious 
 vicinity of Tierra del Fuego, as well as that caldron 
 of the mariner, the terrible Cape Horn, one can 
 scarcely help feeling that he is entering a part of 
 the world which, to no small portion of mankind, 
 is still a terra incognita. 
 
 ^ Vide Author's two works, "Buenos Ayres," &c., and "The 
 Parana," published hy E. Stanford, 6, Charing Cross, London. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 TWO TEAKS IN PBEU. [CHAP. I. 
 
 When my colleague. Captain Burton, was at my 
 house in Rosario, en route to Paraguay, during the 
 year 1868, and spoke of his recent return from 
 the West Coast of South America, he observed that 
 •'the beauty and grandeur of the Straits of 
 Magellan were worth being shipwrecked to enjoy, 
 if no other means of seeing them could be had 
 recourse to." The character which all the neigh- 
 bourhood bears for cold, comfortless, rugged 
 nature, made me rather doubtful of sympathy in 
 such an idea. But nous verrons. 
 
 From Monte Video downwards, the steamer's 
 track is out of sight of land, except of a long, low 
 bank in the province of Buenos Ayres, about 215 
 miles from the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, 
 styled Mogola Spit. In four days after our 
 starting from the capital of the Republic of 
 Uruguay, we. arrive at the entrance to the Straits 
 of Magellan. Here we are met by the usual kind 
 of stormy weather and huge seas, believed by 
 many to be hereditary to Cape Horn and its sur- 
 roundings, — ^by floating seaweed, and flying alba- 
 trosses. Here, too, we have an illustration of the 
 grand scale on which everything of the physical 
 world is formed on these American contiaents; 
 for the entrance has more of the appearance of 
 a large gulf, than what we are accustomed to 
 associate with a Strait or narrow passage. 
 
 As the sun rises on the morning of the 2nd 
 of April, the extended coast-line to the north and 
 
CHAP. I.] STRAITS OP MAGELLAN. 5 
 
 west of Cape Virgins is of a bright yellow hue, 
 though, bare of trees or vegetation of any kind. 
 When we go in, — ^leaving Dungeness Spit to the 
 right, and in sight of Cliff Hill, with Mount Dinero 
 in the background, — the extent of the entrance 
 strikes me as more palpable. Tor the low land to 
 the left, laid down in the chart as Cape Bspiritu 
 Santo, or Cape Holy Ghost, appears in the early 
 haze of day to be at least from thirty to forty 
 miles away. But our affable second mate, Mr. 
 Brigstock, always ready to do any calculations or 
 find out any information for me, proves by the 
 map that only seventeen miles and a half intervene 
 between Dungeness Spit, and Cape Holy Ghost, — 
 whilst from the former to Catherine Point we have 
 merely fourteen miles and a half. 
 
 Passing Possession Bay, in which we overtake, 
 and leave behind, a Russian war-frigate, with an 
 admiral's pennant at her main, the " Cordillera" 
 enters the first narrows, which constitute a 
 channel of eighteen miles and a half in length, and 
 at part of it only two miles in breadth from shore 
 to shore. Then through a large water-space, called 
 (on the right as we go along) Saint lago Bay and 
 Gregory Bay — on the left Philip Bay. Hence we 
 get into the second narrows, a length of thirteen 
 miles, and a breadth of four miles at the most 
 contracted part from shore to shore. 
 
 From the entrance of the straits up to this on 
 either side no sign of tree, or shrub, or life, human 
 
6 TWO TBABS IN PERU. [CHAP. I. 
 
 or animal, is visible anywhere. Save a few sea- 
 gulls that only add to the utter desolation of 
 soHtude on all that extent of the coast. 
 
 Cropping up to the right, to the left, and in 
 front, as we go along, are rocky prominences of 
 different shapes and sizes, at times having the 
 semblance of islands; but as we approach, the 
 greater number of them are found connected with 
 the terra firma either of the Fuegiari, or Patagonian 
 shore. For they form the projecting spurs of that 
 great chain of volcanic wonders, which ranges from 
 Tierra del Fuego, through the CordiUeras and 
 Andes of South and Central America, and on 
 beyond the Eocky Mountains, in the United States. 
 
 It was night when we arrived at Punto de Arenas, 
 or Sandy Point, on the Patagonian shore, a dis- 
 tance of 125 miles from the entrance. This is 
 a place of call for the mail steamers of the Pacific 
 Navigation Steamship Company, on their way. to 
 and from Liverpool, and the West Coast, as high up 
 as Callao. It is Hkewise a penal colony of the 
 Chilian Government, and its whole population 
 numbers only 850. 
 
 As our time of stopping here was very short, I 
 did not care to go on shore, and a photograph of 
 the place, which I subsequently procured at Val- 
 paraiso, did not cause me to feel that I had lost 
 much in the way of sight-seeing by not visiting 
 this dreary spot. 
 
 The Governor, Senor Don Oscar Viel, a French- 
 
CHAP. I.] GOLD AT COLONIA. 7 
 
 man, whose father served under Napoleon at 
 "Waterloo, came on board, and from him I picked 
 up a few items of information about the place. 
 Coal has been found here, and the mine is being 
 worked, but not, I believe, with much success as 
 yet ; chiefly because the article realized up to the 
 present is of a rather inferior quahty. Quite 
 close to the small compound or canton is a 
 little river, called the Arroyo de las Minas, 
 from which gold can be gathered, as Mr. Viel 
 informs me, "in any quantities." But unfor- 
 tunately the people are too lazy, and indolent to 
 take the trouble of searching for it, unless when 
 the impulse or necessity for supply comes on 
 them. As illustrative of their idleness, the 
 Governor told me that recently he had offered to 
 some men in the place a doUar each man (or 
 4s. 2d.) for a few hours' work to put coals on 
 board a ship, but they dechned to take, or rather 
 refused to work for it. Yet within the last year 
 18,000 dollars' worth of gold was sent from this to 
 England. 
 
 The jurisdiction of Sandy Point settlement, 
 which is called the Colony, extends along the whole 
 shore of the Patagonian side of the Straits from 
 the Atlantic to the Pacific, and that includes a 
 length of 312 miles. 
 
 The Grovernor informed me that there was an 
 English Bishop residing at Navarin, one of the 
 Tierra del Fuego islands — the most southern of 
 
8 TWO YEARS JN PEKU. [CHAP. I. 
 
 tlie lot — and that he communicates from time to 
 time, by means of a small craft at his disposal, 
 with the Falkland Islands. I am rather inclined 
 to think he must refer to Bishop Stanley, whose 
 head-quarters are at the Falkland Islands, but 
 who may now and then visit Navarin. 
 
 Every one knows of the missionary enterprise 
 to Tierra del Fuego, undertaken by Captain AHen 
 Gardiner in 1850, and of the horrible sufferings of 
 the party he left there, who died of starvation in 
 1851. Yet another expedition of the same kind 
 was got up in 1854, which sailed from Bristol 
 under command of Captain Parker Snow. This 
 latter had to be abandoned, after many attempts to 
 form a mission here. Indeed, it is very difficult to 
 hope for success of missionary efforts amongst 
 such people as the Fuegians are described by 
 Admiral Fitzroy in his volume of the " ' Beagle's ' 
 Adventures round the World." " The Tekee- 
 neca," he says, " natives of the south-eastern 
 portion of Tierra del Fuego, are low in stature, ill- 
 looking, and badly proportioned. Their colour is 
 of very old mahogany, or rather between copper 
 and bronze. The trunk of the body is large in 
 proportion to their cramped and crooked limbs ; 
 their rough, coarse, and extremely dirty black 
 hair half hides, yet heightens, a villanous expres- 
 sion of the worst description of savage features. 
 The Yakanny-Kurmy, natives of the north-eastern 
 portion of Tierra del Fuego, resemble the Pata- 
 
CHAP. I.] INDIANS OF PATAGONIA. 9 
 
 gonians^ in colour, stature, and (except in boots) 
 in clothing. They seem now to be in the con- 
 dition in which the Patagonians must have been 
 before they had horses. With their dogs, with 
 bows and arrows, balls (bolas), slings, lances, and 
 clubs, they kill huanacos, ostriches, birds, and 
 seals." 
 
 That they are getting up a taste for boots may 
 be inferred from what they did to the legs of an 
 unfortunate master-mariner a few weeks before 
 our passage through, and which was thus related 
 to me by the GrOTernor. At the time, the 
 English schooner "Propontis" was at anchor 
 in the bay after returning from the scene of 
 disaster, and without her luckless captain. 
 
 It appears that the master of the " Propontis " 
 had his vessel anchored close to the Patagonian 
 shore, near Cape Gallant, when some of the 
 Fuegian Indians in their canoes came off, and 
 were climbing up the ship's side without any 
 previous parley. They were driven ofi with poles 
 and hatchets, and, strange to say, retreated to the 
 Patagonian beach. Stranger still, and with a 
 sort of perverse fatuity, next morning the captain 
 went ashore with two of his crew and a boy, — all 
 unarmed, — to get water ; landing at the distance of 
 
 " Of tlie Teliuelclies, or true Patagonians, tlie reader may see a 
 memoir of mine about them read at the Ethnological Society, 
 London, Professor Huxley in the chair, in the year 1868, and 
 Ijublished in vol. vii. of " Transactions," p. 313. 
 
10 TWO TJEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. I. 
 
 only a few hundred yards from where the Fuegians 
 disembarked. Some days passed; none of the 
 party returned; and the boat had Ukewise dis- 
 appeared from the part of the beach to which it 
 had been attached. The mate went in search, 
 when he found, not very far from where they 
 had landed, the four bodies murdered, and 
 dreadfully disfigured; the unfortunate captain 
 with his skull stove in as if from a club, — a deep 
 wound in his side, from which had come out his 
 life-blood, and his legs cut off. This last was 
 supposed by the mate to be accounted for by the 
 fact, that he was the only one of the party who 
 wore sea-boots. 
 
 We were under way again at eleven p.m., and 
 steamed along the channel at half-speed. It was 
 bright moonlight; and, indeed, under no other 
 cii'cumstances could such a tortuous navigation be 
 effected during the night. 
 
 At six o'clock next morning we entered English 
 Reach, and passed close to where the hapless 
 master of the " Propontis " had been murdered. 
 Here, and for a considerable distance forward, the 
 channel is not more than from three quarters of a 
 mile to a mile across. But it seems to me doubt- 
 ful whether I should write of the mountain 
 scenery around as beautiful and picturesque, or as 
 savagely wild in the desolation of its aspect. Now 
 we have all the hills in the background, covered 
 with snow to their peaks, whilst those near to the 
 
CHAP. I.] BEAUTY OP GLACIEB SCENEET. 11 
 
 sea are clothed -with stunted brushwood down to 
 the water's edgej ravines, valleys, cliffs, glaciers, 
 boulders, as well as islands, creeks, and bays on 
 both sides. Whilst the rising sun makes the 
 snow-capped mountains, in many places, appear as 
 if they were decked out with shining laminae of 
 silver and gold. The beauty and variety of 
 colours, caused by the refraction of the siin's rays 
 on the snow, combined with the varying shade 
 from cloud, and rock, and tree, together with the 
 sombreness of ravines, where the dark green of 
 brushwood muffled the solar light, was pretty in 
 the extreme. Maiiy of the mountain-tops, away 
 in the distance, glistened as if they were fretted 
 with diamonds, whilst the sun was rising a Uttle 
 higher. Passing by Whale Creek we saw the 
 effect last mentioned in its most perfect beaiity. 
 
 A little farther on there appeared, at the 
 southern side, in a small bay, a column of smoke, 
 indicative of a fire being lighted up. This was 
 on the Fuegian shore ; but no sign of humanity 
 was anywhere. As we proceed, the black heads 
 of seals occasionally pop over the water, whilst 
 now and then one or two of the paddle-wheel 
 ducks are seen at a distance. 
 
 Around the upper end of EngHsh Reach, there 
 appears in front, and as if blocking up our passage, 
 a mountain mass of snow-capped pinnacles of 
 various heights, on which the sun shone with a 
 resplendent glare. This is where we enter Crooked 
 
12 
 
 TWO TEAES IN PERU. 
 
 [chap. I. 
 
 Eeach (in wliicli glaciers abound), by proceeding 
 up the passage to the left of the mountain just 
 
 VIEW or MOUKTAIXS iXD GLACIEES IN MAGEHAN STEAITS. 
 
 mentioned; whereas the channel to the right, 
 though to our view backed by a lofty CordiUera, 
 leads up to what is represented on the chart as a 
 large bay, called Otway Cave, in the Patagonian 
 territory. It is such a short reach, that, at the 
 distance of a few hundred yards ahead, we can see 
 no channel; and, looking back to the same dis- 
 tance, we seem equally land-locked behind. There 
 is little or no snow on the- hills that skirt the 
 water, whilst those in the interior, to the very 
 farthest range behind, are covered to their 
 summits. 
 
CHAP. I.] OUT OP THE STEAITS. 13 
 
 All through. Long Reach, by Swallow Bay, 
 Condesa Bay, Stewart Bay, and past Cape Notch, 
 the mountain scenery is the same as that re- 
 presented in the illustration of Crooked Eeach. 
 An excellent panorama of the journey through 
 Magellan was done by Commander Kennedy, KN., 
 of H.M.S. "Reindeer," which has been photo- 
 graphed by Mr. Richardson of Linia. 
 
 At the end of the Reach last mentioned we 
 turn to the left, past the entrance to the Gulf of 
 Xaultegua, and on the left of that by which we are 
 proceeding we skirt by what is called the Cordova 
 Channel, which leads out at the southern end of 
 Desolation Island * iato the Pacific Ocean. On 
 the same side of this passage is a large island, 
 called Santa Ives, island of Sarmiento. Between 
 Swallow Bay and Cape Notch, on the Tierra del 
 Fuego side, are more glaciers, the dark blue, solid 
 glitter of which has little of attraction in them. 
 On the right-hand side of our passage here is 
 another collection of pinnacles, to which I am told 
 is given the name of Westminster Hall. Coming 
 within view of Cape Pilar, in its gigantic hay- 
 cock form, we see before us the Pacific Ocean ; 
 and, though much gratified at having, during 
 some portion of my life, been able to make a 
 transit through these Straits, I am not at all 
 disposed to agree with Captain Burton, that there 
 
 ■* On this island, the Pacific ITavigation Company's steamer 
 " Santiago " was •wrecked in 1870. 
 
14 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [cHAP. I. 
 
 is anything in the whole voyage, which would 
 compensate for the inevitable discomfort, and 
 annoyance of being shipwrecked there. 
 
 Although many a famous sea-captain has won 
 laurels in this desolate region, since the bold 
 Spanish navigator, Fernando Magalhaens dis- 
 covered the passage in a.d. 1519, none could 
 have had the difficulties to contend with that he 
 encountered. The whole voyage through brings to 
 mind memories, not only of him, but of his succes- 
 sors in the exploration — of Prezier, of Captain 
 Basil HaU, Sir Francis Drake, Admiral Fitzroy, and 
 Professor Darwin. The names of bays, points, islets, 
 anchorages, and other topographical bearings are 
 nearly all given by the early explorers — of Saints 
 by the Spaniards — of more practical nomenclature 
 by the English. But of the old pre-historic titles 
 few are preserved. "We have, however, the gulf 
 of Xaultegua at the northern end of Long Reach, 
 — the bay of Apuilqua, not far from Cape Ude- 
 fonso — the port of Ouaviguilga, contiguous to the 
 latter, and the harbour of Pachachuilga to the 
 westward of Echenique Point. To" one who thinks 
 as I do, that these old Indian names (although 
 in cases unintelligible as to their philology) have 
 a »grand Homeric ring in their pronunciation, it 
 may seem but a step from the sublime to the ridi- 
 culous to go from Pachachijilga as we do, through 
 the port of Churruca to the sheltered anchoi-age in 
 Darby Gove. Wliat a pity there was not some other 
 
A-U 
 
 STRAITS OF MAaELT^AN. 
 
 IFrom a Si-f/rh by Commander W. H. Kennedy, 11. N., S.M.S.S. " Beindeer."] 
 
 PASSAGE TO AXD PBOM ATLANTIC. 
 
 TIERRA DEL FUEGO. 
 
 PATAGONIAN SIIOIJE. 
 
 EXTRANCE TO rACIFIC. 
 
 EXIT FKOM MAGELLAN STRAITS 
 
CHAP. I.] SAVAGEET OF PUBGIANS. 16 
 
 inlet thereabouts discovered, to whicli the title 
 of Joan Creek could have been given ! 
 
 I was very much disappointed, as we approached 
 the end of the Straits, at not having seen any 
 of the Fuegians. From what I had been told by 
 our purser, M. Ditchfield, who had often come 
 across them, I cannot doubt their being the 
 veriest of savages. They wear no clothing except 
 a bit of seal-sldn on the back ; they live in caves 
 and under rocks, subsisting chiefly on shell-fish ; 
 but, when driven to famiue condition, they eat 
 their old women. They have canoes made of 
 rushes matted together, and hned with seal-skins. 
 Always with a fire in the canoe, the women do 
 the paddling after the fashion of New Zealanders ; 
 their paddles are only like slices of wood. No 
 estimate can be made of the population of Tierra 
 del Fuego; it is guessed at 2000, but this can 
 only be a random calculation. 
 
 Tierra del Fuego is a large archipelago, con- 
 sisting of several islands, on some of which, as 
 those of Sarmiento and Mount Darwin, are moun- 
 tains of from 6000 to 8000 feet high, covered with 
 perpetual snow. 
 
CHAPTER n. 
 
 Misnomer of Pacific. — Geographical extent of ChilL — Chiloe 
 and adjoining Archipelagos. — Valdivia and Lord Cockrane's 
 bravery. — Coronel and the coal-mines at Lota. — The Arauco 
 country and the Araucanian trihes. — Arrival at Valparaiso. 
 - — Its bombardment by the Spanish squadron in 1866. — 
 Earthquakes in Valparaiso. — Cleanliness of the city. — The 
 Eesguardo, Exchange, and Tramway. — Eoreigners' Clubhouse 
 and Market-place. — Drive to the Eailway Station. — The 
 Estero de las Delicias. — Excellent arrangements of this Station. 
 — Scarcity of Water in Valparaiso. — Waterworks established 
 by Mr. William Wheelwright. — Eailway traffic trebled since 
 1855. — First triumph of Mr. Henry Meiggs. 
 
 Rounding Cape Pilar, and coining out into the 
 ocean, I was at once impressed with the idea 
 of this having a lucus a non lucendo style of 
 name, in being called the " Pacific." It was 
 blowing a gale worthy of the Bay of Biscay in 
 its equinoctial mood ; the sea was rough and the 
 ship was rolling ; whilst rain fell as I never saw 
 it fall before, except on the West Coast of Africa. 
 Not very long after going out we met the Pacific 
 Navigation Company's steamer " Patagones," 
 bound to Liverpool, but we only lowered our 
 flags to each other, as the weather was too dis- 
 tressingly bad to stop for any other exchange of 
 courtesies. 
 
CHAP. II.] DAEING PLAN OP EAEL DONDONALD. 17 
 
 Now we are speeding along by the southern 
 part of Chile. This Repubhc has a coast extent 
 on the Pacific of more than 700 leagues, or beyond 
 2000 miles. It is said to contain within its terri- 
 tory thirty volcanoes, none of which are per- 
 manent, but aU having from time to time their 
 episodes of eruption. 
 
 To day (April 6th) we are steaming past 
 Chiloe, one of an archipelago of islands. There 
 is no inconsiderable traffic between it and Val- 
 paraiso. On looking at the map I find that, 
 since our exit from the Straits, we have passed 
 other archipelagos, as those of the Madre de 
 Dios, the Taytao archipelago, and the Chonos. 
 Somewhat north of Chiloe we skirt the colony of 
 Valdivia, where there is a large settlement of 
 prosperous Germans. 
 
 This last-named place has, however, historic 
 reminiscences connected with it, which no English 
 writer should pass by unnoticed. For it was the 
 scene of one of the most gallant exploits of a 
 noble Englishman, whose name must ever have 
 an imperishable halo around it on the shores of 
 the Pacific — I mean the brave Cochrane, Earl of 
 Dundonald. 
 
 Early in 1820,' and whilst fighting for the 
 
 Independence of Chile, Cochrane conceived the 
 
 daring plan of carrying Yaldivia by storm — the 
 
 place at the time being a strong Spanish garri- 
 
 ' See " Chambers' Miscellany," voL iii. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
18 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [OHAP. II. 
 
 son. Circumstances beyond Ms own control liad 
 cliecked him at Callao (of which I shall speak 
 hereafter), and he now resolved on something 
 completely in his own style. " Cool calculation," 
 he said to General Miller, " would make it appear 
 that the attempt to take Yaldivia is madness. 
 This is one reason why the Spaniards will 
 hardly believe us in earnest, even when we com- 
 mence; and you will see that a bold onset and 
 a Uttle perseverance afterwards will give a com- 
 plete triumph; for operations unexpected by the 
 enemy are, when well executed, almost certain 
 to succeed, whatever may be the odds ; and 
 success will preserve the enterprise from the im- 
 putation of rashness." The result proved that 
 these tactics were right. He had vrith him only 
 a frigate, a schooner, and a brig. On the way 
 down from Valparaiso he naiTowly escaped ship- 
 wreck in the frigate, and only kept the vessel 
 afloat by continual pumping — Cochrane repairing 
 the pumps with his own hands. 
 
 Yaldivia, a noble harbour, was defended by a chain 
 of nine Spanish forts; each fort had a ditch and ram- 
 part, and the whole mounted 118 guns, manned by 
 1600 troops. This was, indeed, a formidable place 
 to attack with three small ships. The forts were, 
 however, much isolated, with very indifferent pas- 
 sages between them. Cochrane, therefore, planned 
 with Miller to attack them singly, which was done 
 ^^'ith astonishing success. In truth, the Spaniards 
 
CHAP, II.] COAL-MINES OP COEONEL. 19 
 
 were so dismayed at the audacity of the attempt 
 on the night of the 3rd of February, that they 
 failed to make due resistance. Fort after fort fell 
 'to the invaders; and on the 6th, Valdivia, with 
 the whole of the forts, surrendered to Cochrane. 
 Large quantities of stores were captured, as well 
 as much treasure.^ 
 
 Pursuing our voyage, on the 7th of April we 
 entered the harbour of Ooronel (or the Colonel), 
 in the Bay of Arauco, where there are coal- 
 mines in full work. At each side of the bay 
 in Ooronel, which is almost land-locked, except 
 from the narrow entrance at the south, the coal- 
 mining industry is carried on with much vigour. 
 The mines on the right-hand side, in the" district 
 of Lota, as we enter, produce from four mines 
 100,000 to 120,000 tons- in the year. Those to the 
 left, in the locale which is entitled Puchoco, 
 reaHze 80,000 tons per annum from three mines. 
 At Lota, mining operations were initiated in 1850, 
 whilst at Puchoco they were not begun until 1859. 
 There is a small town of Coronel at the Lota side, 
 with about 3000 inhabitants. I was only for a 
 short time on shore here, njounting up to the top 
 
 ° Up to Valdivia on the Chilian side, and to Point Eosa not 
 far below Bahia Blanca, on the Atlantic, the Chilians claim 
 territory for the Colony, — bounded on the north by the Eio Negro, 
 and on the south by the Straits of Magellan. This, however, is 
 not acceded to by the Argentine Eepublic, for to the south of 
 Eio Negro is the Welsh colony of Chupat, under the protection 
 of the Buenos Ayres Government. 
 
 c 2 
 
20 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [cHAP. II. 
 
 of a hill, overlooking the sea at the Puchoco 
 establishment. 
 
 The country interior to this Bay of Arauco ' is 
 inhabited by the Araucanian Indians, whose pos- 
 sessions, not yet completely submitted to the 
 authorities of the Chilian Republic, are bounded' on 
 the north by the line of fortifications of the river 
 Malleco, the Andes to Angol, at the foot of the 
 central range of ISTahuelbuta, and towards the 
 centre and west of that range by the new military 
 establishments of Puren, Cafiete, and Lebu ; on the 
 east by the Cordillera of the Andes ; on the west 
 by the Pacific, near to which have been founded a 
 series of small towns all along the coast. It is 
 finally bounded on the south by a line drawn fi:-om 
 the morro (blufi") Bonifacio, at the entrance to Port 
 Corral, in the province of Valdivia, which follows 
 a north-easterly direction as far as the river 
 Mehuin, and from thence in a south-easterly direc- 
 tion as far as the right bank of the river Calle- 
 Calle, where it joins the Malilhue, a little to the 
 east of the mission of Quinchilca. It continues 
 from thence along that river to the Andes. Its 
 northern limit is therefore situated to the south 
 of the first line in lat. 37° 61', and its southern in 
 lat. 39° 40'. 
 
 Fort Purco is situated to the south of the first 
 
 ' From a pamphlet on the Aiaucanian territory, pubUshed in 
 1870, by Messrs. Cox and Taylor, of Valparaiso, "On the 
 Araucanian Indians. " 
 
OHAP. II.] ABAUCANIAN INDIANS. 21 
 
 line, in lab. 38° 10', whilst the second valley of the 
 river Graces is occupied by civilized people as far 
 as the village of San Jose, which is located in lat. 
 39° 28'. 
 
 The configuration of this vast territory bears a 
 very marked analogy to the rest of the Republic. 
 The two natural barriers which enclose it to the 
 east and to the west — the Andes and the sea — give 
 to it the form of a long and narrow strip, or rather 
 that of a great parallelogram, very regular in its 
 form. 
 
 The Araucanians consist of six different tribes — 
 
 1st. The Arribanos, or Muluches, who inhabit the 
 slopes of the Andes, and are 'more ferocious than 
 the rest of the Indians. These are the gentry who 
 make inroads into the Argentine Republic, from 
 the estan^ias of which they sweep countless herds 
 of cattle. 
 
 2nd. The Abajinos, who inhabit the eastern 
 slopes of the Nahuechuta range of Andes, and who 
 are of the same Arcades dmbos pattern as the 
 Arribanos. 
 
 Brd. The Oostinos or Luvquenches, who are 
 found in the proximity of the Coast from Lebu 
 southwards. These are spoken of as being very 
 quiet people, on account of the moral force, in a 
 physical point of view, of the various military 
 establishments in the shape of forts, that exist to 
 keep them in awe. 
 
 4th, The Huilliches, to the south of the Can tin. 
 
22 TWO YEARS IN PEEU. [CHAP. II. 
 
 5th. The Huilliches to the south of the Tolten. 
 Yet it puzzles me to understand why people of the 
 same name should be divided into two different 
 tribes from the accidental division of a river. 
 
 Both of these last-nanied are agriculturists, and 
 breed cattle — both have blacksmiths and silver- 
 smiths amongst them, and both manufacture 
 ponchos. Further, I am told that " these tribes, 
 from the circumstance perhaps of their inhabiting 
 the most central part of the territory, are the 
 most independent of all the Araucanians. It is, 
 however, generally believed that, if colonial settle- 
 ments were founded in their vicinity, it would be a 
 comparatively easy task to bring them completely 
 under the influences of civilization," — a conclusion 
 with which I regret that I cannot agree. 
 
 There is a 6th tribe, the Pehuenches, who 
 inhabit the plains situated in the interior of the 
 Andes, and the slopes of the Cordillera. All the 
 tribes inhabiting the Araucania territory would 
 seem to be of one race. They are of moderate 
 statm'e, robust and well formed, agile in their 
 movements, of a dark copper colour, and slight 
 beards. Amongst the Maquga Borea, and others, 
 are often found examples of extraordinary height, 
 of fair complexion, light-coloured eyes, and 
 such characteristics, indicating that they owe 
 their origin to a different race from the Arau- 
 canians. 
 
 Like all the Indian nomadic tribes, their govern- 
 
CHAP. II.] INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS. 23 
 
 ment consists of settlements, to which the 
 Spaniards give the title of Beduciones. At the head 
 of each of these is a Cayique, or chief. Under this 
 chief is a lot of Mo^etones, or warriors, who in 
 times of peace attend to the practical business of 
 agriculture, as well as to looking after the flocks 
 and herds. Several GaQicazos (chieftainships 
 united under one common head) constitute what is 
 called a Butalmapu. But the authority of a chief 
 of a Butalmapu is limited to the most important 
 matters in connexion with war and its prosecu- 
 tion, by and with the advice and consent of the 
 rest of the Cagiques met in parlainento. There is 
 no regular order of hereditary succession amongst 
 them, their election to posts of confidence being 
 chiefly a matter of personal prestige. 
 
 The population of the Araucanian territory must 
 be a matter of the wildest guess-work. I therefore 
 decline to take the estimates from the number of 
 lances that are accredited to each district. 
 
 Of the superstitions of these Indians, or of their 
 religious belief, we know nothing, except that they 
 are in the habit of consulting Machis, or wise men, 
 to ascertain the cause of death of any one. And 
 as death is always attributed by these sages to 
 sorcery (Dano), it is enough to bear in mind the 
 similarity in idea to what we know of the Egbo 
 practices amongst the West Africans.^ 
 
 * FicZe Author's "Impressions of Western Africa.'' Longmans, 
 London, 1858. 
 
24 TWO TEABS IN PEEU. [CHAP. II. 
 
 From Coronel (whence to Valparaiso there is an 
 electric telegraph) we skirt by Concepcion, and a 
 number of smaller ports — ^without touching at any 
 of them — and in less than thirty-six hours find 
 ourselves rounding the sharp-pointed jutting rocks 
 that form the western boundary of the Bay of 
 Valparaiso. 
 
 On entering the harbour it is very difficult for 
 the stranger to conceive any aptitude in the deriva- 
 tion of its name — from the Spanish, Va (go), al 
 (to), Par also (Paradise) ; unless indeed the fre- 
 quency of earthquakes in the time of its early 
 foundation — a fi:"equency continuing to the present 
 day — made its first inhabitants hopeful of getting 
 up every morning in that heavenly Paradise where 
 " the wicked cease from tronbliug, and the weary 
 are at rest." 
 
 For here, as well as farther north in Peru, the 
 temblor, or terra-mota, is an hereditary institution. 
 In 1822 the town was nearly destroyed by one of 
 these convulsions ; and only a fortnight before our 
 arrival, in the second week of AprO, 1871, the 
 whole country round, from Valparaiso to Santiago, 
 and as far south as Talca, was shaken, — to the 
 cracking of walls, the throwing of people out of 
 their beds, the breaking of bottles by tumblino- 
 them ofi"the shelves, the frightening of population 
 (chiefly the female part) into the open air, and the 
 general appalling terror which such an occurrence 
 engenders. A gentleman who was staying at an 
 
CHAP. Il.J BAKTHQUAKBS AT VALPARAISO. 
 
 25 
 
 hotel in Santiago during tlie last earthquake, and 
 whom I met here, told me that his chief idea, when 
 roused out of sleep by the commotion, was that of 
 somebody knocking at all the doors of the hotel. 
 Not far from the house whereat I was temporarily 
 stopping, the cornice of a store, which was in 
 course of construction, had fallen down on the 
 heads of a boy and a girl who were passing by, but 
 who fortunately received only a trifling shock. 
 Valparaiso is built at the base and on the side of a 
 hill, overtopped by rugged sierras, without the 
 shadow of vegetation. The houses above the level 
 ground are scattered far and wide, here and there 
 in groups, now and then in isolated dwellings.' 
 The most important topic discussed with refer- 
 
 VALPARAISO APTER DESTRUCTION OF THE CUSTOIT-HOUSE BY SPANISH 
 BOMBAEDJIENT IN 1866. 
 
 ° Twice this year (1873) Valparaiso has heeu twisted uhout — 
 
26 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. II. 
 
 ence to Valparaiso for many years after tlie event 
 was tlie bombardment of the city by a Spanisb 
 squadron under Admiral Nunez on tbe 31st of 
 Marcb, 1866. The provoking cause of this "was 
 said by the Spaniards to be, that the Chilian 
 Government had allowed Peruvian men-of-war to 
 be supplied with coals at the time that Peru 
 was in a quarrel with Spain. Some insults to 
 Spaniards in other parts of the world, and still 
 unatoned for, were likewise brought forward as 
 an urging cause. Valparaiso was not only per- 
 fectly unprotected, unfortified, and therefore 
 undefended at the time of the assault, but con- 
 tained a far greater amount of foreign property 
 than it did of native. The fact of its bombard- 
 ment under these circumstances, "therefore, excited 
 general indignation. The Custom-house was de- 
 molished, and more than three millions' worth of 
 property, belonging to foreigners, was destroyed on 
 . the occasion. 
 
 When you land at the Mole at Valpai'aiso, you 
 pass under the archway of the Resguardo or 
 Customs guard-house, — and, crossing into a square, 
 turn round to observe that the back of this 
 building is the Exchange. Then, proceeding 
 onwards, no one can fail to be struck with 
 the' extreme cleanliness of the streets, and the 
 
 its last sliock in June, amongst other peculiarities, whirling round, 
 on the pedestal, the statue of Earl Dundouald put up in the 
 previous month of Fehniary. 
 
CHAP. IT. J CLEANLINESS OF VALPARAISO. 
 
 27 
 
 excellent style of the pavement. These two are 
 effected by the untiring energy and activity of 
 
 EESGUABXIOj OE CUSTOMS GUAKD-HOUSE, VAIPABAISO. 
 
 the Intendente, Senor Don Francisco Echaurren 
 Hindorro, Governor of the Province, and President 
 of the Municipahty. All through the line of 
 street along which the tramway runs — the whole 
 length of the town from the Custom-house stores, 
 stUl unfinished in their revival, to the Santiago 
 railway station — it is the same. 
 
 Valparaiso appears hke the inner or middle 
 layer of a sandwich — the sea on one side and the 
 chffs on the other. It is, in fact, a miniature 
 representation of the Chilian Republic, which a 
 glance at the map will show any of my readers 
 seems but as a slice of the great South American 
 Continent. It may be said to have only one prin- 
 cipal street, the southern part of which begins near 
 
28 
 
 TWO TEARS IN PKRU. 
 
 [chap. n. 
 
 the market-place, and stretches along northward 
 to the railway station. This is about a mile and 
 
 PLAZA OF VAtPAKAISO, WHEKEIN EAKL DUNDONALD'S STATUE HAS BEEN" 
 KECENTLT EEECraD. 
 
 a half in length, and can be done on a tramway 
 for five cents. 
 
 As yon travel along this street you see over- 
 head, and as if ready to topple down on you, 
 several house groups on the tops of sierras, with 
 quebradas (orra^dnes) intervening. The sensation 
 ,of looking at these, whilst rememberiug the possi- 
 bility of an earthquake at any moment, is far 
 from comforting to a nervous person. On one of 
 these sierras several English merchants have their 
 private residences. The general appearance of 
 the shops and stores, particularly of the French 
 
CHAP. ir.J WATBE SUPPLY. 29 
 
 and English, would do credit to any city in the 
 world. 
 
 Water is very scarce in Valparaiso, the only 
 certain supply being that obtained in the water- 
 works, and chiefly resulting from rainfalls. These 
 were constructed many years ago by that inde- 
 fatigable friend of South America, Mr. WUliam 
 Wheelwright, whose labours in the Argentine 
 Republic, on the other side of the Andes, are too 
 well known to need recapitulation. All through 
 the main street there are many wells, but those 
 are of salt water, and chiefly used by the firemen 
 (of whom there are several excellent companies 
 here) to extinguish conflagrations. 
 
 There is a foreigners' club in the city, many of 
 its members being English. They have recently 
 erected an excellent and commodious, as well as 
 very handsome, club-house. Not far from the 
 club-house is a rather small market-place, enclosed 
 and roofed over. On the front gate is an inscrip- 
 tion in Latin : " Domini est terra et plenitude 
 ejus." ^ It was erected in 1863. 
 
 Making a trip in the tramway carriage to have 
 a look at the railway station, the cleanliness is 
 still palpable everywhere. From street to street 
 at the crossings there are wooden culverts, beneath 
 which the water flows (when it is there to flow), 
 without offending sense .of sight or smell. As 
 you come to the end of the main street, Calle 
 ° " The earth is the Lord's, and the fulness thereof." 
 
30 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. II. 
 
 Victoria, you cross a bridge, and then turn at a 
 right angle to the left down to the railway station. 
 This bridge traverses a large river-bed, now dry 
 and empty, but quite as large as the Corral bed in 
 Madeira, before it debouches into the sea at Fun- 
 chal. Here it is called the " Estero de las Deli- 
 cias," or the Salt Marsh of DeUghts — although it 
 is difficult for a stranger to understand the appli- 
 cability of the title. Hence to its mouth, which 
 abuts into the sea about a quarter of a mile 
 lower down, and quite close to the station, we 
 pass by a number of small bridges, leading over 
 to the tramway track from the streets of the 
 northern end of the town. These bridges are 
 distant only about 50 to 100 yards from each 
 other. Only a few of them are wide enough to 
 admit any traffic except that of foot passengers. 
 The whole course of this Arroyo, or river-bed, 
 hereabouts is walled in with substantial masonry, 
 to prevent the overflow which would naturally 
 result after a great rainfall in the sierras. 
 
 The railway station is very substantial in 
 its arrangements, although its space is rather 
 limited, OTving to the intruding of a perpendicular 
 cliff, nearly two hundred feet high. It is excel- 
 lently arranged in its ticket department, engine 
 sheds, workshops, and goods stores, under the 
 superintendence of Mr. Martin.' Since its first 
 
 ■ I regret to record that Mr. Martin died a few months after m\- 
 arrival at Callao, and subsequent to my having known him here. 
 
CHAP. II.] FIEST TRIUMPH OP HENET MBIGGS. 31 
 
 opening in 1855, it has more than trebled its 
 receipts in cargo as well as in passenger traffic. 
 
 This railway was constructed under a contract 
 between the Government of Chile and Mr. Henry 
 Meiggs, now the famous railway king of Peru, and 
 was one of his first great triumphs on the shores 
 of the Southern Pacific. I use the word " triumph" 
 advisedly, because Mr. Meiggs accomplished what 
 has been rarely done in Spanish South America, 
 namely, completed the work a considerable time 
 before the period prescribed by contract had 
 arrived. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 Trip to Santiago, the Capital. — Stations of Quilpue, Limache, 
 arid Quillota. — Ormskirk aud Shrewsbury reminiscences. — 
 The ilaqui Bridge and Tunnel. — Entrance to Santiago. — The 
 Southern Railroad and Uaths. — Poplar-trees everywhere. — 
 Square Squares. — The Alemada. — Zoological Gardens. — The 
 Museum and its Fluify Birds. — Cathedral and Arcades. — 
 Burning of Jesuits' Church in 1863. — Monument. — Burning 
 of Theatre. — Atrocious insult to Charles Dickens. — Foundation 
 of Santiago in a.d. 1541. — The Mapocho Indians destroy 
 it. — What they left behind. — Connexion of Earl Dun- 
 donald "with Chile. — Bravery of his eldest son. — Attempted 
 Assassination of Lady Cochrane. — Seizing Treasure of San 
 Martin's. — Reinstatement in his former honours by Queen 
 Victoria. 
 
 As the " Cordillera " had to remain for a week at 
 Valparaiso, I took advantage of the occasion, and 
 ran up to have a look at Santiago, the capital of 
 Chile. The distance set down on the railway 
 time-tables is 114|- miles. 
 
 So soon as we get outside of the town, we find 
 ourselves at once amongst the Cordilleras, which 
 are here, as well as elsewhere, the spurs of the 
 Andes. The morning being very clear, we had a 
 view of the snow-capped Aconcagua, reputed to be 
 the highest of the Andean chain. At the station 
 of Quilpue, twelve miles from the starting-point. 
 
I'M / 
 
 li. ,/i: ... 
 
 V«2 
 
 
 
 
CHAP. III.] IMPRESSIVE SCBNEET. 33 
 
 little boys and girls came up to the carriages 
 with uncorked bottles of Ghicha,^ and holding 
 glasses in their hands, ofiFered the beverage for 
 sale. When we stop at the stations of Limache 
 and Quillota— the first being twenty-six, and 
 the second thirty-four miles from Valparaiso — 
 again the carriages are stormed with vendors of 
 pears, apples, grapes, tuna, and chirimoya; the 
 last-named being considered the unrivalled fruit 
 of the Pacific. I know I shall be held as defi- 
 cient in taste, for confessing it is a fruit that 1 
 never could esteem. But these Httle incidents, in 
 the far-off country of Chile, brought me back in 
 fancy to the gingerbread of Ormskirk, and the 
 cakes of Shrewsbury. 
 
 From Llallai station to Montenegro, a distance 
 of fifteen miles, we have a very steep gradient. 
 Thence we skirt along the valley of Tabon, 
 — rush round a precipice, over the Macqui bridge, 
 — and into a tunnel, amongst a class of scenery, 
 the wildness and majesty of which are very im- 
 pressive. 
 
 From the tunnel to Santiago there is not much 
 time to observe anything, as we are in an express 
 train, and arrive in the city after a run of 
 four hours and a half. The station has a 
 double terminus ; one being that into which we 
 have just entered, the other belonging to a line 
 
 ' The Chicha sold here is made from grapes ; that of Peru is 
 manufactured from Indian corn. 
 
 VOL. I. D 
 
34 
 
 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [cHAP. III. 
 
 whicli goes soutli as far as Curico," on the road 
 to Concepcion. The distance from Santiago to 
 Curico is about the same as from the first-named 
 to Valparaiso — say fi'om 114 to 115 miles. 
 
 Down the road of Curico are to be found some 
 of the baths for which Chile is famous, as well as 
 a variety of magnificent scenery. Of the latter 
 I saw beautiful photographs in Valparaiso. The 
 baths of Cauquenes are said to resemble those of 
 Harrogate. But there are others, as Colina, 
 Apoquinda, and Chillian, the constituent peculi- 
 arities whereof I am ignorant. 
 
 Entering Santiago by railway to the station, 
 
 VIEW OF SANTIAGO FKOII OUTSIDE. 
 
 you pass on each side a row of tall poplar-trees. 
 
CHAP. III'.] POPLAES AND PARALLELS. 35 
 
 From this to the city, along the Alemada, you 
 have two more rows of poplar-trees ; and if 
 you drive either to the Campo del Marte, or to 
 the Zoological Gardens, you find poplar trees 
 everywhere, — symbolical of two lines of soldiers in 
 a state of permanent, and perpetual drill. The un- 
 bending uprightness of the poplar-trees, with the 
 squareness of all the street blocks, makes one feel 
 the city of Santiago to be exceedingly prim ; for 
 it is, as Dickens said of Philadelphia, "distract- 
 ingly regular." 
 
 The Alemada, however, by which we go down 
 to the city, would be very pleasant for a morning 
 promenade if we could get rid of the perpendi- 
 cular and quadrilateral ideas, which thrust them- 
 selves upon us everywhere. Standing at either 
 end of this, and in the middle of the space be- 
 /tween the two rows of trees, I see nothing but 
 two parallel lines of poplars, in front of me — 
 parallel ranges of houses — parallel azequias or 
 water-courses, and parallel rails for a tramway. At 
 the end no more is visible than a patch of sky, which 
 forbids my attempting its mathematical measure- 
 ment. Still, if I walk outside the Hne of trees, 
 crossing the azequias and the tramway, at every 
 150 yards, or at the end of every cuadra, I come 
 to the opening of another line of squares, stretch- 
 ing away too far for me to guess their extent, but 
 having a poplar-tree or two at the extreme end, as 
 if they were notes of admiration against the dis- 
 
 D 2 
 
36 TWO YBAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. HI- 
 
 tant mountains, and the bright blue sky. Trying 
 to escape from the school trammels, which all these 
 appearances stir up, aiid ejaculating, " From 
 ghostly poplar-trees, and square cuadradas, good 
 Lord, deliver us!" I speed over the orthodox 
 pavement, to enjoy my walk in the fresh air, and 
 on the clean roads of the Alemada. 
 
 The Alemada is as wide, from* houses to houses 
 across, as is Sackville Street in Dublin, and whilst 
 strolling along I can have a drink of milk from 
 one of the many cows, that are tied up to trees in 
 my pathway. These have been brought here for 
 the constitutional morning tiffin of the debihtated, 
 or the phthisical. There are several statues in this 
 Alemada; amongst them a bronze one, in which 
 General San Martin is mounted on a charger, paw- 
 ing the air in an impracticable manner. Some few 
 kiosks are about, dedicated to the sale of sandias 
 (water-melons), grapes, and other fruit ; and after 
 about half an hour of rambling, I pass by the beau- 
 tiful and princely quinta of Mr. Henry Meiggs, to 
 which the title of palace would not be misapphed. 
 
 I paid a visit to the Zoological and Botanical 
 Gardens, in both of which the poplar-tree was 
 again too intrusive to allow me to relish anythino-. 
 The Zoological collection consisted of three mon- 
 keys on one side, a sneaking jaguar of diminutive 
 size on the other, and, not far from this, a mise- 
 rable Jemmy-Dismal looking baboon. 
 
 The National Museum is in the square behind 
 
CHAP. III.] HAJIDSOME PLAZA. 37 
 
 the CatLedral ; and one can scarcely help feeling 
 the mustiness of the place to be hovering about him 
 as he enters it. It was originally organized by 
 the Jesuits, who here, at the present time, are only 
 known as the Padres Franceses, or French priests. 
 I enter through a gateway, large enough for a 
 mail-coach to pass in; and on either side of the 
 vestibule is a door with the word " Libreria " 
 (Library) painted atop. These two doors are 
 locked, and no one to be found to open them. 
 Locked, too, is the entrance of the Museum up a 
 flight of steps in front, after crossing over about 
 twelve yards of a Patio. In the corridor I got a 
 peep through a dirty window at some small stuffed 
 birds, that appeared as fluffy and dusty, as if they 
 had been so many cock-sparrows, in Charterhouse 
 Square, during the fire of London in 1667. 
 
 The principal plaza of Santiago, where the 
 Cathedral stands, is very pretty, and is rendered 
 doubly agreeable in hot weather by having two 
 fountains, which throw jets of water in columns 
 of spray to the height of more than thirty feet. 
 Of course it is the usual square — square ; but the 
 angularity of it is very much rubbed off by a circular 
 flower parterre, protected with iron railings. From 
 this plaza to the adjoining street runs off an 
 arcade, crossed in its centre by another, and both 
 covered over with glass. These are fitted up in 
 so very much of a French style, that when they are 
 brilliantly lighted at night with gas, one might. 
 
38 
 
 TWO YEARS IN PBEU. [CHAP. III. 
 
 without mucli stretch of fancy, consider himself 
 in the passage of the Palais Royal at Paris. 
 
 Not far from the Cathedral was, at the time 
 of my visit, an empty space, where once stood the 
 Jesuits' Church. In this were burnt nearly two 
 thousand of the fair sex of Santiago, of all ranks 
 and ages, on the night of 8th December, 1863. 
 
 BL'KXIXG OF JESUITS' CHURCH, IN S.tNHAGO, DECEMBER, 1863. 
 
 They were present on that evening at the cere- 
 monies dedicated to the Immaculate Conception 
 of the Blessed Virgin, when some of the 
 
CHAP. III.] BURNING OF TWO THOUSAND WOMEN. 39 
 
 church ornaments took tire, and the conflagra- 
 tion spread with a rapidity that it was impossible 
 to suppress. Women, naturally frightened at 
 such an occurrence, rushed tamultuously to 
 the doorways — of which the two that had been 
 open were soon blocked up by the falling down 
 of the crowd, in their impetuosity to get out. 
 
 MONUMENT TO 2000 LADIES WHO PERISHED IN THE FIEE, DECEHBER, 1863. 
 
 Those coming after, trampling on the fallen, 
 were, by their very helplessness from terror, 
 mingled up with the struggling mass; and still 
 
40 TWO TEAES IN PEETT. [CHAP. HI- 
 
 they came, and still the blocking up grew more 
 impossible for relief; whilst the shrieks of the 
 living and the groans of the dying made the scene 
 to be most appalling. No help could be given from 
 outside, and they nearly all perished miserably in 
 the flames. The only relic of the sad catastrophe 
 is a monument which has been erected near the 
 spot, and beneath which the charred remains 
 taken out were interred. 
 
 When the ruins were searched, nothing but 
 portions of bodies in the condition of cinders 
 was discovered; and it was melancholy, for 
 several weeks, to hear of persons in the city every 
 day becoming conscious of having lost personal 
 friends or relatives. The monument says, " 20D0 
 victims, more or less." 
 
 Not far from this is the site of a theatre, where 
 another tragedy had nearly taken place last year 
 (1870), when the building was burnt to the 
 ground, in about an hour after a numerous 
 attendance at one of Oarlotta Patti's concerts had 
 left the theatre, and gone home. 
 
 Santiago is almost as remarkable for the clean- 
 liness of its streets as Valparaiso ; and I regretted 
 very much not being able to pass more than one 
 day here, as I wished to see it thoroughly. 
 
 Whilst waiting at the railway station till the 
 train was ready, by which I purposed returning to 
 Valparaiso, the name of " Carlos Dickens," yelled 
 out by a news-boy, who had a bundle of books 
 and newspapers in his arm, attracted my attention. 
 
CPAP. III.] FOUNDATION OP SANTIAGO. 41 
 
 On my calling the youtli, to see what works of the 
 immortal spirit of Gad's Hill he had to dispose of, 
 he handed me a volume in yellow paper binding, 
 whilst again screaming out the title, "LosBan- 
 didos de Londres, por Carlos Dickens!" ("The 
 Bandits of London, by Charles Dickens.") I 
 almost flung the book at him, and must confess 
 that I, never in my Hf e, so much thirsted to have the 
 liberty to do anything, as to give that young whelp 
 a whaHng on the spot. Here I was obliged to con- 
 tent myself with preaching to him a strong repri- 
 mand, in his native dialect, for the infamy of selling 
 such trash under the name of Dickens. How 
 my sentiments were appreciated by the Hsteners 
 may be inferred from the fact, that whilst I was 
 lecturing the vagabond, a Chihan, who was going 
 by the same train, came up and purchased it. So 
 I had nothing to do but walk to the other end of 
 the platform in disgust, and to make up my mind 
 not to travel in the same carriage with the man 
 who had patronized such an imposture. 
 
 The city of Santiago dates its foundation from 
 A.D. 1541, when Senor Don Pedro de Valdivia 
 wrote to King Charles V. of Spain that he " had 
 populated, in the valley called Mapocho, the city 
 of Santiago of the new extremity," on the 24th of 
 February, 1541, constituting a Cabildo, — establish- 
 ing courts of justice, — and giving it a name in 
 honour of the apostle who was most popular 
 amongst the Spanish adventurers of the -period. 
 
 It was first peopled with about 200 colonists ; 
 
42 TWO YKAES IN PERU. [cHAP. Ill- 
 
 but six months had not passed away before the 
 adjoining Indians, of the Mapocho tribe, made an 
 assault on it, killing many of the settlers, and burn- 
 ing nearly aU the houses that had been built up to 
 that time. These latter were made of straw, and 
 therefore were easily consumed. With them were 
 likewise destroyed by the fire all the provisions 
 they contained, leaving, as Valdivia reported, 
 "only the rags of the regimental clothing, the 
 fire-arms which they had on their shoulders, a 
 pair of young pigs, one guinea-pig, one hen, one 
 rooster, and no more than two breakfasts of 
 wheat." 
 
 But the city was soon rebuilt, and established 
 itself as the centre of the colony, taking pre- 
 cedence over the other cities that followed its 
 foundation. 
 
 Coming back to Valparaiso, the journey is all 
 down an incline, although nothing like such a 
 steep gradient as is the railway of San Paulo from 
 Rio de Janeiro. Yet between Montenegro and 
 Llallai, the rate at which the train went was 
 terrific. 
 
 The express of the morning stops at Llallai for 
 breakfast ; and here again we have a repetition of 
 the Ormskirk and Shrewsbury remembrancers, in 
 the excellent sponge-cakes that were hawked about 
 at the station. At Quillote the fruit is very 
 excellent, and very cheap. 
 
 I cannot leave Chile without once more re- 
 
CHAF. III. J PKOWBSS OF EAKL DUNDONALD. 43 
 
 calling to mind what this Republic owes to the 
 memory of our illustrious countryman, Lord 
 Cochrane, Earl of Dundonald, whose prowess 
 was one of the chief causes in enabling this 
 people to shake off the Spanish dynasty, and 
 establish their independence. From the memoir 
 that I have already quoted I find that he passed 
 four years in the service ' of Chile, — years of 
 indomitable activity, and ' of brilliant enterprise. 
 On one occasion, as he was about sailing from 
 Valparaiso — whereat I am now reading of it — 
 to commence operations against the Spaniards, 
 he received an unexpected volunteer in the person 
 of his eldest son^ — a child of five years old, who 
 had escaped from his mother's watchfulness, and 
 appeared, mounted on the shoulders of a lieu- 
 tenant, waving his little cap, and shouting, 
 " Viva la Patria ! " Nothing would satisfy him 
 but to accompany his father, which, no doubt with 
 considerable reluctance, he was permitted to do ; 
 and we shall hear more of him again at Callao. 
 
 Whilst Cochrane was carrying on his opera- 
 tions up and down the coast — capturing treasures 
 belonging to the Spaniards on board of their ships 
 of war, as well as intercepting treasure-trains 
 inland — Lady Cochrane, who had taken up her 
 abode in a villa outside of Valparaiso, was attacked 
 one night by a Spaniard, who threatened her with 
 instant death unless she revealed the secret orders, 
 - The present Earl Dundonald. 
 
44 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. HI- 
 
 whicli had been given to her husband by the 
 Government. This she heroically refused to do. 
 She was then stabbed with a stiletto, and her 
 life was saved only by the prompt attendance of 
 servants, who secured the would-be assassin. 
 
 It appears, further, that the ending of Lord 
 Cochrane's career in Chile was not such as his 
 extraordinary services entitled him to, or as his 
 high and generous spirit had anticipated. He 
 was surrounded by men, who looked rather to 
 their own interests than to the welfare of their 
 country. General San Martin contrived to make 
 himself Dictator, as weU as President, of Peru, and 
 then disavowed all obligations to Cochrane, with- 
 out whose aid, I have no hesitation in saying, 
 he never could have assumed such a position. 
 Cochrane's seamen and marines were at this time 
 almost reduced to want, so that, nearly mad- 
 dened by what was going on around him, he seized 
 a treasure-ship belonging to the Government 
 of San Martin, with nearly three hundred thou- 
 sand dollars on board, and paid his poor fellows 
 their wages out of it, as well as supplied them 
 with necessaries. He kept a strict account of 
 these transactions to render to the Chilian 
 Government; but, tired out, and almost unre- 
 warded for his exertions. Lord Cochrane quitted 
 the service of Chile in 1823. 
 
 Indeed, this grand old Englishman might, at that 
 period of his life, have lost' all faith in the world, 
 
CHAP. III.j STATUE TO EARL DUNDONALD. 45 
 
 when it is known tliat upon false charges' lie 
 was expelled from the House of Commons, his 
 name rubbed out of the Navy List, and the Order of 
 the Bath taken from him by his own Government, 
 previous to his leaving England for service in 
 Chile. It is a comfort, not only to his descen- 
 dants, but to all lovers of justice and truth, 
 to know, that the undeserved accusations which 
 clouded his fair fame in his early manhood were 
 triumphantly rebutted, and, thirty-nine years 
 afterwards, he was reinstated in all his honours, 
 as well as appointed by Her Most Gracious 
 Majesty the Queen to command the West-India 
 squadron. 
 
 Since the period of my visit to Valparaiso — 
 indeed, on the 1 2th of February in this year, 1873 
 — a statue has been erected (with all the pomp 
 and ceremony which such an occasion merited) to 
 Lord Cochrane. It is situated in the plaza 
 behind the Resguardo, and in front of the 
 Exchange, — near to the Intendencia and Cor- 
 poration House — the first of which is not the 
 least noticeable of the pretty buildings in Val- 
 paraiso. 
 
 ^ Every one is cognizant of the fa«t, that these charges were 
 connected with what is called the Stock Exchange Fraud of 
 1814:, and in which he was made to appear & jyarticeps criminis 
 by the author of the fraud, a Captain de Bourg or Berrenger. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 From Valparaiso northwards.: — Chilian lahourers. — Approaching 
 Peruvian houndary-line. — Mr. Squier's description of its 
 peculiar physique.- — Explanation by Senor Eaimondy of rain 
 never falling on the coast of Peru. — Trade of Iquiqne. — 
 Exports therefrom. — Tarapaca province. — Eailways from Iqui- 
 qne to Iforia. — Xew export law of Saltpetre. — Arica and its 
 last earthquake. — Consul Nugent's account of the catastrophe. 
 — ^Wave fifty feet high. — Corresponding earthquakes elsewhere. 
 — ^The dead forced out of their graves. — Ships driven on shore. 
 — ^EeHef to the sufferers. — Tacna railway. — Ho and Moquega 
 railway. 
 
 OuE steamer, when leaving Valparaiso to proceed 
 northwards, had on board, besides the few pas- 
 sengers now remaining from Liverpool, over 200 
 Chilian labourers, to be landed at Mollendo, the 
 seaport of the Arequipa railroad. They did not 
 add much to the comfort of our deck-walking ; 
 but they were inevitable, so it was of no use to 
 grumble about them. These were hired in Val- 
 paraiso by the agent of Mr. Henry Meiggs. 
 
 From Valparaiso we go along without touching 
 at any other port of note in Chile. Indeed, the 
 only two places to be called at in this northern 
 passage (as far as the boundarj^-line at Chimba 
 Bay between Chile and the little promontory of 
 Bolivia, which runs out there) are Coquimbo and 
 Ca-ldera. Both of these are famous for their 
 
CHAP, IV.] SILVER MINES OP CAEACOLES. 47 
 
 mineral productions ; and tte latter is noticeable 
 as being the port at which. Mr. William Wheel- 
 vpright's line of Central Argentine Railway, sur- 
 veyed by Mr. Campbell in a.d. 1852, was to 
 make its exit, after crossing the San Francisco 
 pass and through Oopiapo, to the coast. After 
 passing the Chilian boundary we go by Mejillones 
 and the small port of Cobija in Bolivia. Then by 
 the river Loa, which is the boundary-line sepa- 
 rating Peru from Bolivia on the coast. In the 
 neighbourhood of Mejillones here are the Caracoles 
 silver-mines. These, at the time of our visit, were 
 being negotiated by their owner, the Baron de la 
 Riviere, who was a feUow-passenger with us on 
 board the " Cordillera" from Monte "Video. 
 
 As we enter Peruvian waters, I am reminded of 
 what is said by the eminent North American 
 archaeologist, Mr. Squier :' — 
 
 "No portion of the globe has bolder or more 
 marked geographical or topographical features 
 than Pera. In no part of the world does Nature 
 assume grander, more imposing, or more varied 
 forms. Along the Pacific coast is a belt of desert, 
 intersected here and there by narrow valleys of 
 wonderfal fertility, or relieved near the mountains 
 by oases not less fertile. Succeeding this belt 
 inland is the declivity of the Cordillera, notched 
 
 ' " Observations on. the Geography and. ArcliEeology of Peru." 
 By E. G. Squier, M.A., F.S.A., late Commissioner of the United 
 States in Peru. (A Paper read before the American Geographical 
 Society, February, 1870, p. 4.) London : Triibnerand Co., 1870, 
 
43 TWO TEAES IN PEHIT. [cHAP. IV. 
 
 by gorges, througli which flow streams of varying 
 size, fed by melting snows, or the rains that fall 
 for part of the year in the interior. On the coast, 
 except as a remarkable meteorological phenomenon, 
 rain never falls — a fact bearing in a marked 
 manner on the aboriginal architecture of that 
 region. Ascending the escarpment of mountains 
 we find a grand, elevated ridge or mountain 
 billow, bristling with snowy and volcanic peaks, 
 and often spreading out on broken, cold, and arid 
 plains ; or Punas (deserts), with little of life to 
 relieve their forbidding monotony. This broad 
 and frozen belt, called the El Despoplado (the 
 unpeopled), varying from 14,000 to 18,000 feet in 
 height, is succeeded, in the south of Peru and 
 Bolivia, by the great terrestrial basin of Lakes 
 Titicaca and Aullagas, which is shut in completely 
 by the Andes and the CordiUera. Above, or to 
 the noi'thward of this, the two ranges separate 
 agaki, forming the vast Andean plateau, the Thibet 
 of America, deeply grooved by streams, which all 
 find their way eastward into the Amazon." 
 
 The fact stated by Mr. Squier, that " rain never 
 falls on the coast," was not interrupted by any ' 
 variety of the phenomenon during my residence of 
 two years at Lima and Callao.^ As I have seen no 
 explanation of its rationale ^dth which I can agree 
 
 ° In Mr. Markham's translation of the Travels of Piedra de 
 Cieza de Leon, this is also explained by an extract from Captain 
 Maury's " Physical Geography of the Sea.'' Vide Op. cit. p. 216. 
 
CHAP. IV. J CAUSE OF NO EAIN IN PEEIT. 49 
 
 SO well as that given by Senor Don Antonio 
 Raimondy in his little pamphlet on the province 
 of Loreto. I therefore introduce it here.' After 
 replying to some of what he considers erroneous 
 ideas on this matter, he continues : — 
 
 " In my opinion, the direction of the wind is 
 one of the principal causes of the non-falling of 
 rain on the coast ; but it is not the only one, 
 because in this cause is likewise much concerned 
 the formation of the ground over which it passes. 
 To form a clear idea of these phenomena are 
 only necessary very simple notions on meteo- 
 rology. Therefore, searching the cause from its 
 origin, I should observe, that the sea is the prin- 
 cipal fountain source of the watery vapours spread 
 about in the atmosphere. These evaporating 
 from the surface are raised to a point where, the 
 temperature being lower, they reunite, combine, 
 and are condensed, becoming visible in the shape 
 of clouds. The watery vapours through the 
 atmosphere, whether invisible, or condensed under 
 the form of clouds, must necessarily remain 
 immovable, without the aid of winds produced 
 by the inequality of temperature of different 
 localities. Consequently, the winds are the 
 medium by which watery vapours are transported 
 to the interior of continents. A wind will there- 
 fore be more charged with watery vapour, the 
 greater that may be the superficies of sea over 
 ^ " Apuntes sobre la Provincia Litoral de Loreto," p. 6. 
 
 VOL. I. B 
 
50 TWO TEARS IN PEKU. [OHAP. IV. 
 
 wtich it has passed. But in order that a wind 
 which comes from the sea should transport to the 
 interior a large quantity of watery vapours, it is 
 necessary that it should have a direction almost 
 perpendicular to the earth. Casting an eye-glance 
 over the map, and taking in the shape of South 
 America with that of its coasts, it may be seen 
 that the general form of that continent is tri- 
 angular, and that at the west side it runs with 
 very Httle diflference from south to north. Now, 
 if we observe the most general direction of 
 winds that prevail on the west coast of America, 
 it may be observed that they are almost in- 
 variably from south to north. » So that the 
 winds foUow in a parallel the line of the 
 coast. Consequently the south wind, which is 
 charged with watery vapours from passing over a 
 certain superficies of the sea, does nothing more 
 than skirt the coast, without penetrating to 
 the interior of the land. Moreover, the watery 
 vapours, transported by the winds to the lofty and 
 snowy regions of the CordUleras through the lower 
 temperature of these part's, become condensed, 
 fall in rains, and give origin to the little rivulets 
 which, by their union, form rivers. But these 
 watery vapours, for the reasons before expressed, 
 not being abundant, cannot by their condensation 
 give origin to large streams ; and we can there- 
 fore easily conceive the lack of large currents of 
 water on the western side of the Cordillera." 
 
CHAP. IV,] IMPOETAUCE OF IQUIQUE. 51 
 
 Mr. Raimondy farther explains ho"W the physical 
 formation of the contioent tends to the passage 
 of the larger quantity of mnd, with its moist 
 vapour, on account of the angularity of South 
 America to the eastern sides ; thus accounting for 
 the heavy rains, vrhich go to form the Amazon, the 
 Orinoco, the Parana, and the Paraguay rivers.* 
 The immense extent of sand stretching along the 
 coast of Peru, in some places from fifteen to 
 twenty leagues in breadth, has likewise to do with 
 the absence of rain, because, being a good con- 
 ductor of caloric, the sand, acted upon by the 
 sun, evaporates a current of warm air, which pre- 
 vents the watery vapours already spoken of from 
 becoming condensed. In winter time, the atmo- 
 sphere beiag, of course, colder, and the sand 
 being a better conductor of heat'than the water of 
 the sea, becomes colder than the latter : so that 
 its low temperature causes the condensation from 
 which we have these fogs, so general ia winter 
 time, on the coast of Peru. These are said to 
 be the same reasons to account for the non-faUing 
 of raiQ in Egypt, and "the east coast of Africa. 
 
 Travelling as we are along the coast of Peru, 
 from south to north, and wishing to visit every 
 place of importance, I was very sorry that we did 
 not touch at Iquique — a port which is becoming 
 every day of more importance to British, and 
 
 * This is, in fact, the explanation that is given by Professor 
 Maury, as mentioned at page 48 previous. 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 TWO TEARS IN PEETJ. [CHAP. IV. 
 
 general commercial interests, from tlie extending 
 export of its mineral salines. Iquique' suffered 
 muck by the earthquake of 1868. Of its products 
 I copy here an extract taken from my last Report 
 on the Trade of OaUao, pubhshed in the Foreign 
 Office Blue Book of Consular Reports for 1873 : — 
 The reports of the exports of nitrate from 
 Iquique show a marked increase during the last 
 two years. For the month of July I append 
 the following table, which indicates an increase 
 for the same month, compared with the corre- 
 sponding month in the year 1870, of 861,812 
 quintals : — 
 
 To— 
 
 1870. 
 
 1871. 
 
 1972. 
 
 
 Quintals. 
 
 Quintals. 
 
 Quintals. 
 
 England 
 
 340,672 
 
 449,966 
 
 260,385 
 
 France . 
 
 • . 
 
 187,438 
 
 24,443 
 
 29,000 
 
 Germany 
 
 
 104,929 
 
 95,211 
 
 202,917 
 
 HoUand 
 
 
 23,438 
 
 38,267 
 
 16,540 
 
 Belgium 
 
 
 12,200 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Spain . 
 
 
 40,643 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Portugal 
 
 
 — 
 
 22,001 
 
 — 
 
 Italy . 
 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 9,500 
 
 Order . 
 
 
 712,675 
 
 1,022,964 
 
 1,697,168 
 
 United States 
 
 
 246,546 
 
 182,955 
 
 311,198 
 
 California 
 
 
 16,160 
 
 14,687 
 
 7,659 
 
 Chile and Coast 
 
 
 2,454 
 
 8,999 
 
 4,919 
 
 West Indies . 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 18,681 
 
 Total . 
 
 
 1,696,155 
 
 1,859,493 
 
 2,557,967 
 
 The exports of nitrate for the month of June, 
 
 ' For information about the archseology of Iquique and the pro- 
 vince of Tarapaca in which it is situated, see Bollaert's " Anti- 
 quities of Peru." 
 
CHAP. IV.] EXPORTS OF SALTPETEE. 
 
 63 
 
 1872, amounted to 384,437 quintals against 
 307,240 in the same montk last year. 
 
 j-ne following is a comparative statement of 
 the exports of nitrate from Iquique for the first 
 six months in the years 1870, 1871, and 1872, 
 respectively. The increase is prodigious, being 
 805,624 quintals over the corresponding period 
 of 1870, and 678,668 over the same month in 
 1871 :— 
 
 To— 
 
 1870. 
 
 1871. 
 
 1872. 
 
 
 Qaintals. 
 
 QnintalB. 
 
 Qnintals. 
 
 England 
 
 299,663 
 
 382,698 
 
 260,385 
 
 France .... 
 
 168,172 
 
 24,443 
 
 29,000 
 
 Germany 
 
 90,586 
 
 67,822 
 
 202,917 
 
 Holland . . 
 
 . 23,438 
 
 21,267 
 
 16,540 
 
 Belgium 
 
 12,200 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 Spain . 
 
 40,643 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Portugal 
 
 — 
 
 22,001 
 
 — 
 
 Italy .... 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 9,500 
 
 To Order 
 
 565,240 
 
 854,637 
 
 1,423,434 
 
 United States 
 
 199,560 
 
 154,492 
 
 249,107 
 
 California 
 
 15,160 
 
 8,082 
 
 7,658 
 
 Chile and the Coast 
 
 1,254 
 
 7,440 
 
 4,318 
 
 West Indies . 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 18,681 
 
 Total . 
 
 1,415,916 
 
 1,542,882 
 
 2,221,540 
 
 At the beginning of this current month 
 (August, 1872), the prices quoted were dol. 2*55 
 Chile currency in Valparaiso, but they have since 
 then somewhat declined. 
 
 The following represents the total exports of 
 the years indicated up to the 30th of November, 
 1872 ; as before, the numerals being quintals, or 
 100 lbs. weights : — 
 
54 
 
 TWO rEAES IN PEETJ. [OHAP. IV. 
 
 To— 
 
 1870. 
 
 1871. 
 
 1872. 
 
 
 Qmntals. 
 
 Quintals. 
 
 Quintals. 
 
 England 
 
 628,379 
 
 661,166 
 
 393,700 
 
 France . 
 
 
 227,115 
 
 53,043 
 
 92,895 
 
 Germany 
 
 
 111,929 
 
 180,888 
 
 217,917 
 
 Holland 
 
 
 23,438 
 
 47,537 
 
 16,540 
 
 Belgium 
 
 
 12,200 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 Spain . 
 
 
 40,643 
 
 14,256 
 
 6,000 
 
 Portugal 
 
 
 — 
 
 22,001 
 
 — 
 
 Italy . 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 9,500 
 
 To Tarious Orders . 
 
 1,367,857 
 
 1,891,382 
 
 2,794,930 
 
 United States 
 
 411,498 
 
 298,214 
 
 397,452 
 
 California 
 
 15,160 
 
 22,187 
 
 17,071 
 
 Chili and elsewhere 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 8,280 
 
 The Pacific Coast . 
 
 4,321 
 
 12,189 
 
 29,567 
 
 Total. 
 
 • 
 
 2,742,531 
 
 3,202,964 
 
 3,983,798 
 
 Writing of tins place Mr. Marktam* says: — 
 " While tlie desolate CHnclias pour millioiis into 
 the Treasury, the pampa o£ Tamarugal, in the 
 Tarapaca province, contributes its nitrate of soda 
 (salitre) and borate of lime to swell the riches of 
 this favoured land. It is calculated that the nitrate 
 of soda grounds in this district cover fifty square 
 leagues, and, allowing one hundred pounds weight 
 of nitrate for each square yard, this will give 
 63,000,000 tons, which, at tlie present rate of con- 
 sumption, will last for 1393 years. In 1860 the 
 export of nitrate of soda fi'oin the port of Iquique 
 amounted to 1,370,248 cwts., and a good deal of 
 borax is also exported, though its shipment is pro- 
 hibited by the Government." 
 
 " "Travels in Peru and India,'' c. xviii. p. 306. Murray, 
 London, 1862. 
 
CHAP. IV.] FIEST BAILWAT IN PERU. 55 
 
 AlthougH it is given in a note that these calcu- 
 lations are founded on data from " BoUaert's 
 Account of Tarapaca," it will be seen how erro- 
 neous must have been deductions based on " the 
 present rate of consumption" as it existed twelve 
 years ago when we contrast the lj370,248 quintals 
 of the whole year 1860 with 3,983,798 quintals 
 for eleven months of 1872. 
 
 The railways of Peru — the most extensive system 
 of railways in South America — may be said to com- 
 mence here. From Iquique to the interior nitrate- 
 producing localities of Noria, and La Carolina, as 
 well as from the neighbouring port of Pisagua to 
 the saltpetre places of Sal de Obispo and Zapiga, 
 railway trains have been plying for the last few 
 years. The line from Iquique to La Noria goes 
 through a length of only thirty-five miles. But 
 it is a dreadful ascent and descent — a sandy, salty 
 country to visit, — ^I am told, — without a drop of 
 water to be foxmd anywhere, except what is distilled 
 from the sea. 
 
 This railway from Pisagua was contracted for 
 by Messrs. Don Bamon Montero, and Brothers, of 
 Lima, by sanction of special laws passed on the 
 8th of November, 1864, and the 15th of. January, 
 1869. That from Iquique to Noria was established 
 by a Supreme Deci-ee of the 18th of November, 
 1856. The original contract with the Govern- 
 ment bears date Lima, 1st of November, 1860, on 
 the part of Messrs. Don Jose Maria Costa and Don 
 
56 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. IV. 
 
 Frederick Pezet, under tlie rubric of Minister 
 Morales. It has tlie exclusive monopoly for 
 twenty-five years, and is allowed to extend branches 
 over the whole department of Tarapaca. 
 
 Since the accession of President Pardo to the 
 head of the Government, the following law in refer- 
 ence to this place was sanctioned by Congress in 
 the month of January last. It met with considerable 
 opposition, but was carried by fifty-six affirmative 
 votes against twenty-three in the negative : — 
 
 "Art. 1st. Saltpetre is a monopoly in the Re- 
 pubhc. 
 
 "Art. 2nd. The State will pay on delivery, and in 
 cash, 2 soles 40 cents for each quintal of saltpetre, 
 whose grade is not less than 95 per cent., placed 
 alongside the launches in Iquique, or in any of the 
 ports or bays which may be quahfied in the pro- 
 vince of Tarapaca. Should the State be able to 
 sell the saltpetre at a higher rate than 3 soles 10 
 cents per quintal, the price of 2 soles 40 cents 
 will be augmented by half the excess. 
 
 " Art. 3rd. The Government will take as a base 
 the production of saltpetre in the year 1872, and 
 the producing power of the manufactories on which 
 money has already been laid out, and will make 
 the necessary regulations to establish the monopoly 
 and sale of saltpetre. 
 
 " Art. 4. The adjudication of saltpetre grounds 
 is prohibited in every part of the RepubUc. 
 
 "Art. 5. The exportation of the earth from which 
 
CHAP. IV.] RIVALET WITH GUAKO. 67 
 
 the saltpetre is extracted is hereby totally pro- 
 hibited. 
 
 " Art. 6. The exportation of saltpetre which has 
 not been bought from the State is prohibited, and 
 all which it may be sought to export in infringe- 
 ment of this clause wiU be confiscated. 
 
 "Art. 7. The Government will inform the next 
 Congress of the results of the monopoly, and are 
 prohibited from making any agreement which may 
 compromise for more than two years the interests 
 attached to it. Every contract, whatever may be 
 its nature or form, which is binding on the State 
 for more than that time, is null and of no legal 
 effect. 
 
 " Transitory Article. This law will come into 
 operation two months after its promulgation, from 
 which date all the saltpetre that may be exported 
 from the Republic will be subject to its regula- 
 tions." 
 
 It was, however, confirmed by a subsequent law 
 of July last. The argument in its favour, besides 
 the inevitable necessity of covering the deficit of 
 the last Government, is that nitrate of soda at 
 present competes in European markets with 
 guano, and that it is therefore the interest of the 
 State to be enabled to regulate and take advan- 
 tage of this rivalry. Time only will be able to 
 solve the soundness of this opinion. The last 
 law is published in the Official Gazette, and runs 
 thus : — 
 
58 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [OHAP. IV. 
 
 "Art. 1st.— The Monopoly of Saltpetre will 
 begin to liave eflFect on the 1st day of September 
 next : ' 
 
 " Art. 2nd. — From that day the Monopoly De- 
 partment shall pay 2 soles and 40 cents for every 
 quintal of saltpetre in sack, and placed alongside of 
 the launch at Iquique, Pisagua, Mejillones, Junin, 
 Patillos, or Molle, if its quaKty proved by proper 
 essay be that of 95 per cent. : 
 
 •"Art. 3rd. — ^If its quality be less than 95 per 
 cent., the price of 2 soles and 40 cents shall be 
 reduced in the following proportions : 
 
 " In 1 per cent, if the quahty is 94 per cent. 
 
 In 4 per cent, if it come to 93 per cent. 
 In 8 per cent, if it come to 92 per cent. 
 In 13 per cent, if it come to 91 per cent. 
 In 19 per cent, if it come to 90 per cent. 
 
 " For intermediate fractions a proportionate 
 allowance shall be made. Saltpetre being less 
 than 90 per cent, in quahty shall not be received, 
 nor that which has 6 per cent, or more of damp- 
 ness'. 
 
 " Art. 4th. — If the quality reaches 96 per cent, 
 the Department shall pay 2 soles and 475- cents per 
 
 ' We can scarcely uonder that President Pardo initiated Lis 
 rule with such edicts, ■when we know of the impecuniosity of the 
 Treasury at the period of his coming into power. But no strouo-er 
 evidence of his governing -nith the country, as well as for the 
 country, need be adduced than the fact that these are now about 
 to be repealed, and an export duty put on in their place. 
 
CHAP. IV.] LAW ABOUT SAITPEXEE. 69 
 
 quintal. If tlie quality should be above 96 per 
 cent, and the saltpetre should not contain more 
 than 1 per cent, of salt, the Department shall 
 pay 2 soles and 60 cents per quintal. 
 
 *' Art. 6th. — The quantity of saltpetre that the 
 Monopoly Department shall buy during the year 
 beginning the 1st September, 1873, and ending on 
 the 31st August, 1874, is fixed at 4,500,000' 
 quintals. 
 
 "Art. 6th. — To estabhsh the proportion that 
 belongs to each producer in the total of saltpetre 
 that the Department may buy yearly, the Prefect 
 of Tarapaca will appoint a commission, composed 
 of five producers, which commission will draw 
 up and present, within twenty days after nomi- 
 nation, a statement of the producing power of 
 each oflS.ce interested, and will £Lx the per centum 
 that may of right fall to the lot of each pro- 
 ducer, in the quantity that the State may buy 
 annually. 
 
 "Art. 7th. — If the persons named by the Pre- 
 fect should not accept the charge to make up the 
 first Commission, or should fail to fulfil it, the 
 Prefect shall oflBcially and definitely fix the pro- 
 portion that may respectively belong to each 
 producer. 
 
 " Art. 8th. — While some producers may be un- 
 able to furnish their respective quotas, on account of 
 the machinery in their respective offices not being 
 in working condition, the others shall have the 
 
60 TWO TBAES IN PEEU. [cHAP. IV. 
 
 right to furnisli the deficit, so that the State may 
 always buy 375,000 quintals per month. 
 
 "Art. 9th. — During the first six months the 
 Department shall not receive more than 375,000 
 quintals in each month ; after the first six months 
 producers may furnish more or less than 375,000 
 quintals every month; but in such manner that 
 the total amount may not exceed 4,500,000 quintals 
 per annum. 
 
 " Art. 10th. — The selHng price of saltpetre that 
 may be disposed of by Government in the first 
 quarter, that is, during the months of September, 
 October, and November next, shall be at S. 2.65 cts. 
 per quintal, being 95 per cent, in quahty, and the 
 better or inferior quaHties in proportion, that is 
 with an addition of 25 cents upon the price at which 
 it is bought. For the second quarter the addition 
 shall be of 35 cents upon said price. The price 
 that is to guide the sales of the Monopoly will 
 be announced to the pubhc sixty days at least 
 before its operation, and under all circumstances 
 it will be higher than that named for the second 
 quarter. 
 
 "Art. 11th. — Producers may export the quantity 
 of saltpetre that may fall to their quota without 
 delivering it to the Monopoly Department ; but in 
 this case they shall pay the difference between 
 S. 2.40 cts. and the prices fixed for the sales of the 
 Monopoly with a deduction of 10 cents per quintal, 
 that is, 15 cents difference in the first quarter and 
 
CHAP. IV.j BAETHQUAKB AT AEIOA. 61 
 
 25 in the second. This exportation shall be made 
 under the supervision of the Monopoly. 
 
 " The producers that may desire to exercise this 
 right will communicate their -wishes to the 
 Monopoly on the 15th of August for those who 
 may deliver in September ; on the 15th of Septem- 
 ber for those who may deliver in October, and so 
 on successively. The producers that do not give 
 notice in time shall be obUged to deliver to the 
 Monopoly their respective quotas to the month for 
 which the notice should have been given. 
 
 " The ships that may be loading saltpetre on the 
 31st August next shall be allowed to complete their 
 cargo in the succeedrag days, the parties interested 
 paying for each quintal embarked after the 1st of 
 September, the 15 cents spoken of in the 11th 
 article, and without subjecting to the regulations 
 of the Monopoly all the saltpetre that may have 
 been previously embarked. 
 
 " The Minister of State in the Department of 
 Finances and Commerce is charged with the fulfil- 
 ment of this Decree. 
 
 " Given at the Government Palace in Lima, on 
 the 12th day of July, 1873. 
 
 " Manuel Paedo. 
 
 " Jose Maeia de la Jaea." 
 
 Ai'ica, the first port of Peru at which we touch, 
 and where I find myself this morning (the 19th of 
 April, 1871), has a most desolate aspect from the 
 
62 TWO YBAES IN PEBtT. [OHAP. IV. 
 
 steamer's deck. This, however, is trifling com- 
 pared to what it presents when we go ashore. 
 Being situated in a comer bight of the continent, 
 it suffered in a strongly-marked manner from the 
 earthquake of 1868; because the volcanic wave 
 coming from the north, and that from the south, 
 meeting here, as it were, in a sort of confluence, 
 swept everything up the valley before them. One of 
 the chief sufferers was my colleague. Consul G. H. 
 Nugent, who lost 60,000 dollars' worth by the 
 swoop of the wave, and who with his wife and 
 children had a narrow escape of their lives. His 
 description of it, pubHshed in the Panama Star 
 and Herald of September, 1868, is so graphic that 
 I cannot avoid making a few extracts : — " I had 
 hardly time," he writes, "to get my wife and 
 children into the street when the whole of the 
 walls of my house fell. ' Fell ' is hardly the word, 
 for they were blown out as if they had been spat at 
 me. At the same time the earth opened probably 
 two or three inches, and belched out dust, ac- 
 companied with a terrible stench as of powder. 
 The air became darkened, and I could not see 
 my wife, who was within two feet of me with 
 the children. If this had lasted any time, so 
 to speak, we must have been suffocated; but in 
 about a couple of minutes it cleared off. Collecting 
 my household together, we started for the hills. 
 How we passed through falling houses, when we 
 saw men struck down — some stone dead, others 
 
CHAP. IV.] THE SEA HAS EETIEED. 63 
 
 maimed — ^is to me a mystery; but a merciful 
 Providence was over us. We wended our sad way 
 as well as we could towards the hills, with the 
 earth shaking, making us stagger like drunken 
 people, when a great cry went up to heaven 
 from all the town, ' The sea has retired ! ' I 
 hurried on, but before I got to the outskirts I 
 looked back, and saw all the vessels in the bay 
 carried out irresistibly to sea, probably with a 
 speed of ten miles an hour. In a few minutes the 
 great outer current stopped ; then arose a mighty 
 wave — I should judge about fifty feet high — which 
 swept in vrith a resistless rush, carrying every- 
 thing with it in its awful majesty. It brought 
 back all of the shipping, some of the latter turning 
 in circles, but the whole speeding on to an in- 
 evitable doom. Meanwhile, the wave had passed 
 in, crushed the mole into atoms, swallowed up my 
 office as a bit in its giant mouth, gulped down the 
 Custom-house, and, rushing along the same street, 
 carried everythiag before it in its irresistible force. 
 The whole of these things were done quicker than 
 the changes in a Christmas pantomime." 
 
 In the same short space of time the Peruvian 
 war-steamer "America" lost about eighty-five 
 hands. The United States steamer "Wateree" 
 escaped with the loss of one life. Having a 
 small draft of water, she was can'ied bodily on the 
 top of the sea, and landed about a quarter of a mile 
 in- shore of the railway track, distant at the spot 
 
64 TWO TEARS IN PBEU. [CHAP. IV. 
 
 more tlian a quarter of a mile from the sea. The 
 " Fridoma," United States store-ship, was bottom 
 upwards. Every soul on board perished except 
 the captain, surgeon, and paymaster, who were 
 fortunately on shore at the moment. An American 
 barque, laden with guano, was swallowed up along 
 with all her crew, and not a vestige left to tell of 
 her fate. " For nearly two days," adds Mr. 
 Nugent, " we lay on the hiUs, without covering 
 and without food (his wife, himself, and seven 
 children), in a constant state of alarm, as the 
 shocks of earthquake were for some days in- 
 cessant." 
 
 I must confess that this is not a very comforting 
 style of thing, to be made acquainted with, on 
 first landing in a country that may be one's home 
 for ah indefinite number of years. 
 
 This earthquake was sensibly felt along the 
 whole coast, although at no place were its devas- 
 tations so palpable as at Arica. Iquique suffered 
 very much, so also did Mejillones, Pisagua, Ho, 
 and Chala, as well as nearly all the other towns of 
 the coast. It went inland to Tacna, interior to 
 Arica, and northward to Arequipa, the second 
 city in the Republic. It hkewise proceeded far- 
 ther north, beyond Callao and Lima, at both of 
 which places it was sensibly felt, although with 
 comparatively little damage. 
 
 One of the most remarkable incidents of this 
 earthquake was the heaving up, in some place not 
 
I -'^^^a r ^^^L. ,1 Sh '''i^ \ifi ri 'ill ^ ■ k. 
 
OHAP. IV.] SYMBOLICAL OF PISH WOESniP. 65 
 
 very far from Arica, of a number of bodies, buried 
 in the usual style of interment along this coast — 
 namely, the squatting posture, in which the legs are 
 flexed on the pelvis, and the knees bent in to the 
 chin. They were covered, as usual, vdth cloth, 
 and padded vdth cotton flock. They had, as else- 
 where, one-half of a bivalve, about the ordinary 
 size of an oyster, attached to the palm of each 
 hand. The usual style of funereal accessories in 
 heads of Indian corn, beans, fishing-nets, needles 
 for making the same, and bits of cloth, were like- 
 wise thrown up. From some of the skulls the 
 eyes had been extracted and fishes' eyes put in 
 their place. Of these latter — ^the eyes of the 
 cuttle-fish — a number were given to me by 
 Mr. Bracey E.. Wilson, our vice-consul at Callao, 
 who had been many years resident at Arica, 
 and was intimate with all its bearings. This 
 putting of the fish-eyes into the orbits, from 
 which their original eye-balls had been extracted, 
 may perhaps be considered as a symbol of their 
 fish worship. 
 
 As soon as it was possible to be despatched, after 
 the earthquake, the United States war-steamer 
 " Powhattan " went from Callao to Arica, being the 
 bearer from the. Peruvian Government of funds 
 and stores to relieve the sufferers. Mr. Henry 
 Meiggs and Mr.Calderon of Lima each contributed 
 50,000 soles (10,000Z.) in behalf of the families 
 left destitute by the terrible calamity. 
 
 VOL. I. F 
 
QQ TWO YEAKS IN PBBD. [cHAP. IV. 
 
 From Arica to Tacna, a distance of sixty miles to 
 tlie interior, there is also a railway. Our stort stay 
 here did not allow me time to visit the latter city, 
 and unfortunately I had no opportunity afterwards. 
 The concession for this railway was made out when 
 General Senor Don Jose Rufino Echenique was 
 President in 1851. The first contractor was Mr. 
 Joseph Hegan, of London, by agreement of 28th 
 September, 1853, and he transferred its privileges 
 to a company, under the title of " Railway Com- 
 pany of Arica to Tacna," on the 23rd May, 1857. 
 In November, 1864, and in January, 1869, pro- 
 posals were made by Messrs. Dockendorf, as well 
 as several other persons of Lima, for extension of 
 the Tacna hue to the frontiers of Bolivia ; but this 
 was never carried into effect. 
 
 Many likewise were the propositions for the line 
 from the port of Ilo to Moquegua. This was, how- 
 ever, granted to Deves Brothers and Company, of 
 Paris, on the 10th of December, 1870, under the 
 condition of concluding the work in two years and 
 a half, and for the cost of 6,700,000 soles in bonds 
 at par. In six months after, or on the 14th of 
 January, 1871, Deves Brothers made over, as they 
 were authorized to do by the 29th clause of tbe 
 contract, the affair to Mr. Henry Meiggs, who with 
 his accustomed energy had the line finished and 
 in the hands of the Government in less than two 
 years after transfer of the concession. 
 
 Moquegua is said to be a great wine-producing 
 
CHAP. IV.J DIBECT EOUTB TO OUZCO. 67 
 
 country, but I can say notHng about it, as I never 
 was tbere. 
 
 Not very far from Ilo we stop at tbe port of 
 Mollendo, and from this is to be the direct route 
 to Cuzco. 
 
 F 2 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 Towards Cuzco. — Grandeur of its edifices. — General Miller's de- 
 scription. — Stories atout gold. — Ancient roads mentioned by 
 Prescott. — Modem railroads made by Mr. Henry Meiggs. — 
 From MoUendo to Areqnipa. — lively nigbt at hotel in 
 MoUendo. — Concession for the Arequipa railroad. — From 
 Ensenada onwards. — Steep gorge. — Pampa of Cachenda. — 
 Large amount of roUing stock. — Valley of Tambo and station. 
 — Quebrada of Cahuiatala. — Serpentrae curves. — Station of 
 Vitor. — La Joya. — Sand-heaps. — Huasamayo. — Onishuarani. 
 — ^Watering-place of Arequipa. — ^Tingo — Sakacha. 
 
 Cuzco ! "WTiat varied impressions, to be sure, are 
 revived in the minds of every one interested in 
 this part of the world, merely by the name of this 
 grand old Peruvian city ! How Prescott ^ tells us 
 that " it stood in a beautiful valley on an elevated 
 region of the plateau, which among the Alps would 
 have been buried in eternal snows, but which, within 
 the tropics, enjoyed a genial and salubrious tem- 
 perature." How " towards the north it was 
 defended by a lofty eminence, a spur of the great 
 Cordillera, and the city was traversed by a river, 
 or rather a small stream, over which bridges 
 of timber, covered with heavy slabs of stone, 
 furnished an easy communication with the op- 
 
 ' " History of the Conquest of Peru," p. 6. 
 
CHAP. V.J THE PLACE OP GOLD. 69 
 
 posite banks." How, " although, the streets were 
 long and narrow, the houses low, and those of 
 the poorer sort built of clay and reeds," it was 
 still " the royal residence, and was adorned with 
 the ample dwellings of the great nobility." How 
 amongst its great buildings stood a strong fortress, 
 the remains of which at the present day, by their 
 vast size, excite the admiration of the traveller, 
 as we are told in the " Memoirs of General 
 MiUer." ' 
 
 On the side facing the city this fortress was 
 defended by a wall of great thickness, and three 
 hundred feet long. It consisted of three towers, 
 one of which was appropriated to the Inca, and 
 was garnished with the sumptuous decorations 
 befitting a royal, residence. Twenty thousand men 
 are said to have been employed on this structure, 
 and fifty years occupied in building it. 
 
 One of the other grand edifices that ornamented 
 Cuzco was the Great Temple of the Sun — "the 
 pride of the capital and the wonder of the empire" 
 — which was designated Gorieancha, or the " Place 
 of Gold." Well it must have merited the name, 
 too, from Prescott's description.^ The interior of 
 the temple was the most worthy of admiration ; 
 it was literally a mine of gold. On the western 
 wall was emblazoned a representation of the Deity, 
 consisting of a human countenance looking forth 
 from amidst innumerable rays of light, which 
 ' Vol. ii. p. 223. ' Op. cit. p. 41. 
 
70 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [cHAP. V. 
 
 emanated from it in every direction, in tlie same 
 manner as the sun is often personified with us. 
 The figure was engraved on a massive plate of 
 gold of enormous dimensions, thickly powdered 
 with emeralds and precious stones. It was so 
 situated in front of the great eastern portal, that 
 the rays of the morning sun fell directly upon it 
 at its rising, hghting up the whole apartment with 
 an efiulgence that seemed more than natural, and 
 which was reflected back from the golden orna- 
 ments with which the walls and ceiling were 
 everywhere incrusted. Gold, in the figurative 
 language of the people, was " the tears wept by 
 the sun;" and every part of the interior of the 
 temple glowed with burnished plates and studs 
 of the precious metal. The cornices which sur- 
 rounded the walls of the sanctuary were of the 
 same costly material, and a broad belt or frieze 
 of gold let into the stonework encompassed the 
 whole exterior of the edifice. 
 
 The sentiment of pleasant, though painful, 
 veneration is absorbed in the contemplation of all 
 these records of ancient history. Can these rela- 
 tions be entitled " History," or are they to be 
 believed as all belonging solely to the Inca 
 period, when we find, on examining, that nearly all 
 the history of pre-historic times in Peru has been 
 destroyed by these very Incas, of whom we can 
 moreover learn nothing but from their Spanish 
 conquerors, whose boast it was to have subdued 
 
CHAP, v.] EOADS IN PEEUVIAN COAST-VALLEYS. 71 
 
 them ? We must, however, try to fancy ourselves 
 amongst this galaxy of grandeur — ^in this city 
 beloved of the Sun — ^where his worship was main- 
 tained in its splendour, "where every fountain, 
 pathway, and wall," says an ancient chronicler, 
 " was regarded as a holy mystery; where, besides 
 the great temple, there was a large number of 
 inferior temples in the city and its environs, 
 amounting to three or four hundred — where one 
 of the principal of these religious houses was the 
 Convent of the Sun — ^this one at Cuzco, consisting 
 wholly of maidens of the royal blood, who 
 amounted, it is said, to no less than 1500." 
 
 But gone now to the " tomb of the Capulets " 
 — if the Capulets ever had a home in Peru — are 
 all these things of grandeur. No more can we 
 have the gorgeous spectacle held in presence of 
 the Incas in lighting up the sacred fire of Raymi. 
 Destroyed, too, are the four roads * that divei'ged 
 from Cuzco, the capital or navel of the ancient 
 Peruvian monarchy. " One of these roads," we 
 are told by Prescott, "passed over the grand 
 plateau, and the other along the lowlands on the 
 borders of the ocean. It was conducted over 
 sierras, across rivers by suspension bridges, up 
 
 * Tliese roads are first descrilved by Pedro de Cieza de Leon. He 
 gives no account of how they got over the rocky Muffs on the 
 sea-coast, though describing their style amongst the valleys and 
 sandy deserts. Vide Mr. Markham's translation of Pedro de 
 Cieza de Leon's Travels, page 219. Garcilasso de la Vega takes 
 description of these roads from Don Pedro. 
 
72 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. V. 
 
 and down precipices by stairways, througli 
 ravines filled up witli solid masonry. The length 
 of the road, of which scattered fragments only 
 remain, is variously estimated at from fifteen 
 hundred to two thousand miles j its breadth 
 scarcely exceeded twenty feet. It was built of 
 heavy flags of freestone, and in some parts 
 covered with a bituminous cement, which time 
 has made harder than the stone itself." ^ 
 
 Although I am the last person to throw any 
 doubt on descriptions of things and places which 
 I have not seen, and whilst I entertain the most 
 profound faith in the celebrated Baron Von Hum- 
 boldt, who says that " the roads of the Incas were 
 amongst the most useful and stupendous works 
 ever executed by man," still I must confess myself 
 as puzzled to understand how " only scattered 
 fragments of these roads remain" at the pre- 
 sent epoch when they were done of materials 
 which " time has made harder than the stone 
 itself." More especially when I know the enor- 
 mously conservative faculties of the Permaan 
 climate, and when I have searched at every place 
 I visited from Arica to San Jose, a coast distance 
 of more than a thousand miles, without ever being 
 able to find out one single yard of such a road as 
 that described by Prescott through " the level 
 country between the Andes and the Ocean." '^ 
 That no such level country exists, except in 
 ' Op. cit. c. ii. p. 28. ' Op. cit. c. xi. p. 28. 
 
CHAP, v.] THREE TOWERING MOUNTAINS. 73 
 
 patches of small valleys, may be seen from what I 
 have already quoted from Professor Forbes.' Be- 
 sides, all the roads in the valleys show unmistak- 
 able evidences of their having been done by the 
 people who were there long before the Incas 
 came, — the Chinchas at Oanete, the Tuncas at 
 Rimac, and the Chimoos in their valleys from 
 Sup6 up to Sechura. Much of these latter roads 
 bear signs of the physical variations made in a 
 country so subject to earthquakes as Peru. 
 
 But whosoever desires to go to Ouzco now-a- 
 days, must journey by railway; and in case 
 the incredulous foreigner should doubt the 
 possibility of a railway to Cuzco — in the centre 
 of Peru — across these Andean masses, some of 
 which are above 18,000 feet high, and over them 
 one would imagine that only the Condor could 
 traverse — let him come with me to the place at 
 which we are now, the port of MoUendo near Islay, 
 in latitude 17° 5' south. There he will find a rail- 
 way going at present to Quisco, and since January, 
 1871, to Arequipa,* which in another year will 
 reach to Puno, and in two years after that from 
 Puno to Cuzco — a total distance of 647 miles from 
 the coast of the Pacific. 
 
 I believe that, except Mr. Markham, Mr. Pent- 
 land, and a few others, there are many persons 
 
 ' Chap. iv. p. 47. 
 
 ' This was -written more than a year ago — so that it is pro- 
 bable the track is at present not far from Puno. 
 
74 TWO TEARS IN PBBTJ. [CHAP. T. 
 
 (like myself, previous to my visit in March, of last 
 year) who only know of Arequipa as a city of 
 Peru, very high up in the Andes, yet with 
 three towering mountains overshadowing it, — 
 namely, Misti to the right, Pichu Pichu to the 
 left, and Charcani between, each of these being 
 18,000 feet above the level of the sea. i had 
 likewise heard of its being a remarkable " head 
 centre " in regard to the matters of earthquakes 
 below and earthquakes above; or, to speak less 
 figuratively, of volcanic shakings and of political 
 revolutions. The first named are said to be 
 most frequent in their occurrence from September 
 to December, and the chronicles tell us, this city 
 has been almost entirely destroyed in each of four- 
 teen difierent earthquakes. The earliest of these 
 is recorded as having occurred on the 2nd of 
 January, 1582, and the last on August 16, 1868. 
 So extensive were the ravages done by that of 
 1582, that the Vicunas and Huanacos came down 
 from the mountains, mingling themselves, as if for 
 protection, with the inhabitants in the streets. 
 
 The Misti was a volcano in the memory of 
 some of the old writers, but at what period its 
 fire-vomiting ceased I could not ascertain." 
 
 ' Pedro de Cieza de Leon writes of this volcano, " which some 
 fear -vvill burst forth, and do mischief." — Mr. Markham's transla- 
 tion, Op. cit. p. 2G6. He commits an error, however, in sajan" 
 it is " fourteen leagues from the sea," for it is more than three 
 limes that distance. 
 
OHAP. V.j EXPOSED EOADSTEAD OF MOLLENDO. 75 
 
 Several attempts, I am told, have been made to 
 reach the summit, but they were all unsuccessful 
 from the fact of the rarefied atmosphere having 
 brought on soroche, or congestion of the lungs, 
 and surumpi, or diflSculty of vision. These causes, 
 at all events, acted upon Senor Yaldez de Velasco 
 and Doctor Suero, as well as on Senor Hgencke, 
 the German Naturalist, and Mr. Pentland. The 
 last-named gentleman got nearer to the top than 
 any of the others. 
 
 The Misti at its summit is 20,300 English feet 
 above the level of the sea : but I must not plunge 
 in mediasres, or aspire to the top of this mountain 
 before starting from MoUendo. 
 
 The roadstead of MoUendo, at the time of my 
 visit, was so covered mth sea-foam, on our 
 approaching the beach, as to suggest the idea of its 
 having been the birthplace of Venus — mentioned 
 in the heathen mythology to have been born 
 in this element. It is a very open and exposed 
 roadstead, being often for weeks together imprac- 
 ticable of communication to or from the vessels 
 in the harbour. 
 
 Landing on an iron mole and crossing the rails, 
 I passed up to the town, which has all the appear- 
 ance of freshness in its dwelling-houses as of 
 solidity in the buildings. Amongst these the 
 chiefest are the stores of the railway station.^ A 
 
 ' The note of introduction, whereof I was the bearer, to ]\Ir. 
 E. C. Dubois, the excellent managing superintendent of this rail- 
 
76 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [OHAP. V. 
 
 few years ago Mollendo was a barren, and unin- 
 habited rock, and altliougb the barrenness is not 
 much improved upon, it has a sufficiently numerous 
 population. That it is keeping up with the neces- 
 sities of its progress is evident from the fact that 
 it has four hotels — one of which is an Hotel de 
 Paris — a custom-house, and a post-office. Of the 
 accommodation at the hotels I can say nothing, as 
 I did not enter them ; but a fellow-traveller of mine 
 to Arequipa next morning assured me that he had 
 spent a night in one, under circumstances that he 
 had never endured before at an hotel in any part of 
 the world. He was in bed for six hours, and 
 that period he described as — 
 
 " One of sleeping, 
 Two of scratch-ing, 
 Three of hunting, 
 iSTone of catching.'' 
 
 Besides the institutions before mentioned, I find 
 here a theatrical company, holding perform- 
 ances on a temporary stage, fitted up in the 
 yard of the raUway premises. On the wall 
 adjacent to the post-office, and on a bill nearly as 
 large as that about a Drury Lane pantomime 
 posted up near Temple Bar, the theatre-loving 
 people of Mollendo were told that the play of that 
 night was to be " La Mujer de un Artista " (" The 
 Wife of an Artist"), with other contingencies. 
 
 -^vay, procured me the luxury of hospitality in liis comfortable 
 dwellintj, for which I shall feel ever grateful. 
 
CHAP, v.] PROPOSALS FOE AREQUIPA RAILWAY. 77 
 
 Alongside of the residence of Mr. Dubois is a 
 pretty little chapel, erected by Mr. Meiggs for the 
 use of the workmen here ; and from the front of 
 this house is an extensive view of the Pacific. At 
 this time there were thirteen vessels at anchor in 
 the roads, amongst which were some with materials 
 for fifteen locomotives on board. 
 
 The first concession by the Government of Peru 
 for the railway by which I am about to travel was 
 from Islay to Arequipa, by a decree of Congress on 
 the 2nd of October, 1860. To this, on the 28th of 
 January, in the year 1863, a guarantee of 7 per cent, 
 on the same was added, also by Congress. It 
 was made over to" Mr. Patrick Gibson, merchant, 
 of Islay. 
 
 By the survey of the engineers, Messrs. Blume 
 and Echegarray, as likewise by a recommendation 
 of Senor M. P. Paz-Soldan,^ the line of road was 
 changed from Islay to Mejias, which is quite close 
 to Mollendo. Then a project came to the Govern- 
 ment from Mr. Paz-Soldan, dated April 20th, 1863, 
 recommending that the concession be made anew 
 to Mr. Gibson. The Hne was again surveyed by 
 Mr. Oswald Younghnsband, civil engineer, whose 
 report is dated Lima, 20th of April, 1864. On 
 this was founded the decree, which under the rubric 
 of Senor Zegarra, Minister of the Interior, and 
 under date May 28th, 1864, proposes to lay the 
 
 " At the period holding the post of Director-General of Public 
 Works. 
 
78 TWO TEARS IN PBEU. [cHAP. V. 
 
 affair before Congress, as there was a difference 
 in the first proposal of the contractors (Soles 
 17,929,924 32 centimes) and the last (Soles 
 15,000,000), either of which exceeded that 
 primarily laid before the Government. 
 
 The Congress then, on the 18th of November, 
 1864, sanctioned the concession so as not to 
 exceed 15,000,000 of soles, with the interest of 
 7 per cent.. General Juan Antonio Pezet being ab 
 the time President of the Republic. The proposal 
 of Mr. Patrick Gibson, now joined with a Mr. 
 Joseph Pickering, was accepted on the 12th of 
 June, 1864. 
 
 But Messrs. Gibson and Pickering carried the 
 matter no farther ; for it appears that in September, 
 1864, or seven years after starting the first idea of 
 this railroad, five proposals were sent in. First 
 from Mr. Edward Harmsen, of Lima ; second from 
 Mr. Robert H. Beddy ; third from Mr. Benjamin 
 E. Bates ; fourth from John Dockendorff and Co. ; 
 and fifth from Mr. Henry Meiggs. Bates offered 
 to take the contract for seven millions of soles ; 
 Dockendorff and Meiggs each proposed twelve 
 millions. Harmsen projected tlie formation of a 
 company, in which the Government was to take the 
 initiative by issuing four millions of soles in bonds 
 as representing so many shares, with an interest 
 of 7 per cent., and an amortization of 4 per cent, 
 per annum ; whilst Beddy followed in the same 
 track as Harmsen, with the little difference of ei^ht 
 
CHAP. V.J VOLCAKIO WAVE OP 1868. 79 
 
 millions of soles instead of four. This is all stated 
 in a report by Paz-Soldan, but lie makes no recom- 
 mendation in favour of any of tbe new proposals ; 
 the former one of Gibson and Pickering having 
 been declared invalid from their not " coming up 
 to time." Mr. Henry Meiggs sent in his proposal 
 on the 31st of March, 1868, one of not the least 
 important items of which was, that he compro- 
 mised himself to pay a fine of 20,000 soles or 5000Z. 
 for each month exceeding the term of three years 
 within which he engaged to finish the work. That 
 he accomplished it in time may be guessed from the 
 fact that the railway was finished to Arequipa, and 
 opened on the 1st of January, 1871, or two years 
 and nine months after signing the contract, 
 instead of three years. 
 
 The train started from Mollendo — ^to the best of 
 my recollection at eight o'clock — its first thirteen 
 miles to the station at Ensenada being southward 
 along the coast and parallel with the sea. About 
 four miles at the Mollendo side of Ensenada we 
 halt inside of Mejia point, where there are a few 
 dirty- looking tents of filthy canvas for houses. 
 This is said to be a bathing-place. Between it 
 and Ensenada is a playa, or level ground, called 
 Ohulu, where a hacienda (farm-house) formerly 
 stood, occupying both sides of the track as we go 
 along. The farm just alluded to was represented 
 to me as destroyed by the volcanic wave of 1868 — 
 part, no doubt, of that which swept over Arica in 
 
80 TWO TEARS IN PEEU. [cHAP. V. 
 
 the same year. At this place we observe an 
 extensive space of clover, with horses feeding on 
 it, and a number of trees. 
 
 At the station of Ensenada is a reservoir capa- 
 ble of containing 10,000 gallons of water, which 
 is brought by an azequia, or watercourse, from 
 some quebrada (ravine) high up in the country. 
 Hence water has to be carried to the stations 
 — at MoUendo, thirteen miles behind, to Tambo, 
 six mUes in advance, and to Cachenda, fifteen 
 mUes farther on. To MoUendo is supplied the 
 quantity of 12,000 gallons per day. The portion 
 of ILae from Arequipa to Cachenda is furnished 
 with water from the former place. 
 
 The expense of water, therefore, on this line 
 at the period of which I write must have been an 
 enormous outlay, as the locomotives with tanks 
 were daily employed in conveying it to the different 
 points. Just then, however, an aqueduct from the 
 river Chile ^ was being constructed for Mr. Meiggs 
 by Messrs. Hart Brothers, of Lima. It was to 
 conduct water along the whole course of the line. 
 Besides the two locomotives employed in the 
 water transport, with two more — one up and one 
 down daily — on the passenger trafiic, there are 
 five engaged in carrying material, or plant, for the 
 road being laid down to Puno en route to Cuzco. 
 
 From Ensenada commences the three per cent, 
 grade. At Tambo, distant from Ensenada only 
 ^ " Chile " iu the Qmchua language signifies " a rounded stone." 
 
CHAP. V.J TTTENING AND TACKING. 81 
 
 six miles, we find ourselves on a level plateau, 
 where there is a large collection of stores, engine 
 houses, and machine shops, with a few improvised 
 stalls by the natives, offering plantains and bana- 
 nas for sale. These are brought from the vaUey of 
 Tambo, a fertile part of the province, the green 
 fields of which can be seen low down, about a 
 mile or so behiad the railway station, and on the 
 right-hand side as we go up. That valley extends 
 for a long distance to the interior — Mr. Bast, the 
 superintendent of locomotives, tells me forty miles. 
 There is a very neat-looking Httle hotel close to 
 the station, with bright flowers and creeping plants, 
 that mount up to a lattice- work over the doorway, 
 having bananas growing in front. From this 
 station, at half-past five o'clock every morning, an 
 engine starts with plant and material for the Puno 
 road from Arequipa. The whole of the railway 
 accessories at this place have quite an air of 
 comfortable freshness about them, in strong con- 
 trast with the sandy soil around, and the dark 
 brown spurs of the Cordilleras in the far distance. 
 From Tambo to Cachendo, fifteen miles distant, 
 we go through the "Quebrada de Cahuintala." 
 The journey here is a sort of turning, and tacking 
 on almost parallel tracks, but stiU mounting up 
 at a grade of four per cent, in a series of serpen- 
 tine curves. "We pass a tank for holding water 
 near where the Posco station is to be, and after" a 
 sweep round a hiU here, we get out into a bit 
 
 VOL. I. G 
 
82 TWO TEAES IN PEETJ. [CHAP. V. 
 
 of level ground. Then another curve to turn 
 the hill- of Posco ; and still we go on, gradually 
 creeping up, winding about, and seeming as if 
 retrograding in the same direction, till, looking out 
 of the carriage window down into a gorge, we see, 
 at several hundred feet below us, the trackway on 
 which we have passed some minutes previously. 
 
 At the Cachenda station, thirty-four miles from 
 MoUendo, we come on what is called the Pampa 
 of Cachenda. And here I get the first sensation 
 of sharpness in the air, from its being so rarefied 
 owing to our lofty position. There is nothing at 
 Cachenda but a neat wooden station-house with 
 a zinc roof, and an excellent as well as spacious 
 platform. A water-tank Hkewise. But on what- 
 ever side you look you can see nothing except 
 sand-plains, bounded on all sides by the Cordilleras. 
 
 The Pampa of Cachenda extends for many 
 leagues farther on. To any one who has travelled, 
 as I have, for thousands of miles over the grass- 
 grown Pampas of the Argentine Eepublic — parti- 
 cularly that part of it in Buenos Ayres and in the 
 Gran Chaco, at the eastern side of the Andes — the 
 term Pampas here seems an anomaly. For we 
 have nothing but a plain of brown and red sand, 
 shut in on every side by dark and lofty moun- 
 tains; whilst the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, co- 
 vered with grass for several thousand square 
 leagues, have no apparent Umit but the horizon. 
 The ground, as we proceed, is dotted with large 
 
CHAP. V.J LIGHTS AND SHADES. 83 
 
 clumps of cinder rock, resembling basalt, which 
 fell here, no doubt, from eome volcanic shower 
 of the early ages. In some parts are boulders 
 of gypsum ; whilst several of the far-ofE sand- 
 hills present the appearance of snow. But this, 
 I am told, is some kind of alkaline pearlash. 
 
 Not the least curious features of these plains 
 are the Medanos, or large mounds of fine sand, of 
 the same class as that with which we are familiar 
 in minute-glasses. These are most frequently seen 
 in the form of a horse-shoe, with the convex part 
 facing the S.W. or the point from which the wind 
 nearly always comes, and the concave side inwards 
 towards the land. I have subsequently seen them, 
 not so much, in the vallies that I visited along the 
 sea side, as at a considerable distance inland. 
 
 At La Joya station, half-way to Arequipa, we 
 stop for breakfast, and here we meet the down- 
 train for Mollendo. From Cachenda, the previous 
 station mentioned, to La Joya, we have five miles. 
 At La Joya there is not much to be seen, 
 and not much desire to look for anything, 
 except one's breakfast on the table, for which the 
 sharp air has long ago given us an appetite. 
 Twenty-two miles beyond La Joya we stop at the 
 station of Yitor, where commences the Huasa- 
 tnayo district of Sierras. Here the lights, and 
 shades on the distant hills are charming in the 
 extreme. From Vitor to Onishuarani we go 
 through the sam.e style of scenery for eight miles. 
 
 G a 
 
84 TWO YEAES IN PEKU. [OHAP. V. 
 
 At part of tlie route we turn round a sharp 
 cliff, and, looking down, can see the river Chile, 
 which flows from' Arequipa, trickling through a 
 gorge. The side of the latter is almost perpendicular 
 to a depth of several hundred feet. This river 
 rises amongst the small hills, behind the Misti. 
 
 Farther on, and down in the valley, we see 
 glimpses of trees and clover, affording a rehef 
 to the eye after so many hours' contempla- 
 tion of sand, and rock. Contrasting this little 
 "emerald gem" with the brown, bare, volcanic, 
 and barren tract, through which we had been 
 travelling for the last four hours, was very 
 refreshing. From this we had the first view of 
 the Misti, towering up gigantic in the distance, 
 its topmost peak peering through a large cumulus, 
 that enwrapped a considerable share of its upper 
 part. 
 
 Leaving Onishuarani we have another run of ten 
 miles to Uchu-Mayo.* We are now on almost level 
 ground, the same plateau as the city of Are- 
 quipa. After skirting the pretty valley of Con- 
 gata, at the upper end of which are the thermal 
 waters of Catari, we proceed to the penultimate 
 station of Tingo, sis miles beyond Uchu-Mayo, 
 and five miles from Arequipa. A fellow-traveller 
 points out to me the village of Fiavaya — a pic- 
 
 ' Ucliu-ilayo, in Qiiicliua, signifies "narrow river;'' and I am 
 informed the ChUe river, in its passage here, hears the same 
 name as the locale through which it flows. 
 
CHAP. V.J DEATH OP AECHBISHOP GOYANAOH^. 85 
 
 turesque little spot, all of green meadows, and 
 trees interspersed with houses, not far beyond 
 Catari — to which the Areqilipenos resort in 
 summer time, as to a Sydenham or Richmond. 
 At Catari there are chalybeate waters. But here 
 at Tingo we have the Buxton of Arequipa. There 
 are two Tingos — the Tingo Grande (Big Tingo), 
 and Tingo CMco (Little' Tingo). The latter is 
 famous for its thermal waters. 
 
 On the rising ground in front, and to the left 
 as we go along, is a ruined cluster of houses on a 
 hill-top, which is entitled Sachaka. Amongst the 
 most notable of these,- damaged by the earthquake 
 of 1868, are the remains of a large church, quite a 
 "Triton amongst the minnows." All the pro- 
 perty round here, which is very valuable, belonged 
 to his Grace the Most Reverend Doctor Don 
 Jos^ Sebastian Goyanache, the Archbishop of 
 Lima, who died only very recently from the result 
 of an accident. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 At Aiequipa. — ^Excellence of its station arrangements. — Hotels at 
 Arequipa. — ^The Soroche and STirumpi. — Earefied attaosphere. 
 — ^Earthquaky look of Areqnipa. — Appearance of CathedraL — 
 Number of Monasteries. — Heavy rains here. — The lilisti vol- 
 cano. — ^The SiUar trachyte. — Celebrated men of Arequipa. — 
 Derivation of its name. — Story of first settlement. — Eailways 
 of Mr. Henry Meiggs. — Eeflections on their success. — From 
 Arequipa on the road to Puno: — ^Mineral wells of Yura. — 
 Station of Quisco. — Aguas Calientes.— Hospital here. — Mag- 
 netic stone at Cachipesane. 
 
 The station at Ai'equipa, witli its appurtenances 
 of manager's residence, office, artisans' houses, 
 engine-slieds, goods-stores, and so forth, occupies 
 thirty acres of ground. This includes the station 
 for the Puno hne, which is divided from that 
 of Mollendo by a road of ordinary width — both 
 communicating by rails. The manager's (Mr. 
 Dubois) house, when completed, will be, as re- 
 gards comfort, combined with luxury, a palace in 
 miniature. It has a top-story, open at all sides, 
 which is the perfection of coolness and ventilation, 
 as well as an indescribable kind of architecture. 
 From the basement of the building extends the 
 
BAEEICADB IN AEEQFIPA DUEiyG SIEGE OF 1887. 
 
 irot I. p. 86. 
 
CHAP. VI.] AGREEABLE ATTENTIONS. 87 
 
 line of offices for passenger-tickets and of goods- 
 stores alongside the platform. At right angles, 
 is one line of neat cottages for the -workmen. 
 Of these there are two other similar lines 
 within the enclosure — one lower, and the other in 
 front of the ticket-office. In fact, everything 
 about here is made on the style of perfect 
 adaptability, which characterizes all the works 
 of Mr. Meiggs done in Peru.' 
 
 Nearly a mile and a half from the station is the 
 centre of the town, to which I was obHged to 
 walk, with a porter carrying my luggage, as there 
 are no conveyances in Arequipa except horses, 
 and bullock-carts of very antediluvian pattern. 
 At the station I met Mr. WUham Harrison, 
 managing agent for Messrs. "William Gibbs and 
 Co., and, although I brought to him no introduc- 
 tion, was invited to share the hospitahty of his 
 house.^ To tell the truth, the offer was at once 
 accepted, inasmuch as from the general appear- 
 ance of Arequipa, and from remembrance of what 
 my recent fellow-traveller had experienced on the 
 previous night at Mollendo, I was not at all 
 disposed to venture into an hotel. This, however, 
 I soon learned, in the matter of insectivorous 
 
 ^ To Mr. H. J. Bertrand, the station-master (locum tenens for 
 Mr. Dutois), I am indebted for the most courteous endeavours 
 to aid me in going about. 
 
 " I cannot refrain from expressing my grateful remembrance 
 of the attentions received from ilrs. Harrison and her husband 
 during my few days' stay at Arequipa, 
 
88 TWO YEAES IN PEETJ. [CHAP. VI. 
 
 Leotarding, was not so mucli to be dreaded. For, 
 on remarking about wbat is here patent to every 
 one on a first visit — of the sensible rarefication of 
 the atmosphere — I was told of an important ento- 
 mological fact, that fleas do not thrive in Arequipa. 
 Indeed, they are never felt here, although 
 no doubt they migrate in large numbers with 
 passengers from Lima, Valparaiso, MoUendo, and 
 every place abroad. They are supposed to die a 
 short time after their arrival, but whether from 
 soroche (congestion of the lungs), or surumjoi 
 (iuflammation of the eyes), I could not ascertain. 
 So that, after my experiences in other parts of 
 South America, I could not help exclaiming, 
 " Happy Arequipenos ! " 
 
 It may be difficult for many of my readers, as it 
 was for myself, to imagine vrhat the volcanic 
 earthquake could have done in 1868, when I 
 received from Mr. Harrison the photographic 
 sketches in this chapter, illustrating some of the 
 topographical phases of the city after the Prado 
 siege. This may be explained as follows : — It 
 appears that in 1867 General Canseco was pro- 
 claimed in Arequipa, with the character of Second 
 Constitutional Vice-President, whilst the people 
 and the army rose up against the Government of 
 General Prado, at the time reigning as Dictator in 
 Lima. Prado came down with his troops, and laid 
 siege to the city, but with such bad results that he 
 was obliged to retreat precipitately for the coast. 
 
CHAP. VI.] SENSATIONS OP BAETHQUAKE. 89 
 
 and return \vitli his steamer. The Grovemment of 
 Prado was concluded in January, 1868. Of his 
 successor. President Balta's fate, I shall write 
 when we come to Lima. 
 
 Even independent of this bombardment, the city 
 must always have had more, or less of an earth- 
 quaky appearance, during the whole of the period 
 intervening between the fourteen earthquakes that 
 occurred from the first, recorded January 2nd, 
 1582, to the last, of August, 1868, or a space of 
 two hundred and eighty-sis years. What it was 
 in pre-historic times (if a city existed in these 
 days) must be left to the imagination. Although 
 nearly four years have passed since their houses 
 tumbled about their ears, many of the inha- 
 bitants would seem to take the ruined state of 
 things, as an inevitable and irremediable destiny. 
 Here and there something has been done to repair 
 a church , but, with huge piles of stones put up in 
 many places, as if in preparation for btiilding, no 
 mason- work is going on; whilst people look at 
 you, and at the stones with a sort of a cui bono? 
 air, as much as to say, "What is the use of 
 building up, when we don't know the moment it 
 may tumble down again ? Our strongest houses, 
 built of freestone, limestone, or Sillar, may rattle 
 about our ears as a house made of a pack of cards 
 will do at a single breath." 
 
 I must confess, it appears to me that the sensa- 
 tion of living in a place so subject as Arequipa is 
 
90 TWO TEABS IN PERU. [CHAP. VI. 
 
 to earthquakes cannot be a very comfortable one. 
 And tbis sbould not be set down to cowardice. 
 Because from storms, fires, revolutions, or sbip- 
 wrecks you may have means of escape, in the 
 proportion say of ninety-nine to one of those which 
 you have from earthquakes. 
 
 The Cathedral, which was rebuilt many times 
 after convulsions, as well as burned in 1844, pre- 
 sents a sad appearance. In no part of South Ame- 
 rica, through which I hare travelled at both sides of 
 the Andes, have I seen a building of this kind, which, 
 even in ruins, shows such rare beauty of majestic 
 simphcity in architecture as this Cathedral. It 
 occupies the whole northern and most elevated side 
 of the principal plaza. The towers and roof were 
 destroyed in 1868, and the whole edifice shaken. 
 Indeed, at one corner of it there is a rent in the 
 wall from top to bottom. At the other side of the 
 street running out of the plaza, opposite the 
 Cathedral, and towards the left, is the Church of 
 the Jesuits — the topmost part of the tower whereof 
 is in a condition of chaotic ruin. The front of 
 this last-mentioned is a wonderful work of SiUar- 
 stone carving. There are several large quarries in 
 the neighbourhood of Arequipa, whence it is trans- 
 ported into town, dressed in square blocks of about 
 eighteen inches long, a foot broad, and four inches 
 in thickness. These are carried in leathern or 
 straw panniers, on the backs of donkeys — a stone 
 at each side being a load. 
 
CHAP. VI.] TBACHTTIC QUAEEIES. 91 
 
 The houses in Arequipa are generally built with 
 boveda, or arched roofs, and these are done with 
 the Sillar, Heavy raias fall in Arequipa, and 
 the arched roof is believed to resist the earthquake 
 better than a flat one could. 
 
 AU the churches of San Augustin, San Marco, 
 San Domingo, Santa Rosa, La Merced, and many 
 others, are in conditions of a most distressingly 
 tumble-down appearance. Santa Rosa is, however, 
 being rebuilt, and one or two others, including that 
 of San Francisco, have been perfectly restored; 
 but the larger number of churches as well as 
 houses still exist in the shattered state, in which 
 they were left by the earthquake of August, 1868. 
 
 At the corner of nearly every street in Arequipa 
 we find drinking-fountains, from which water can 
 be taken in any quantities by persons who desire 
 it. In nearly all the streets, we see the usual 
 Peruvian institution of a^eqwias, or watercourses, 
 I'unniug down the centre. And these are presided 
 over by the turkey -buzzards. 
 
 There are two hotels in this city, but of their 
 internal regime I can say nothing more than that, 
 judging by externals, I should not like being 
 obliged to risk a trial of either. 
 
 On the second morning of my stay in Arequipa, 
 I rode out with Mr. Harrison to see the quarries 
 from which the Sillar^ (trachytic) stone is taken, 
 
 ' " The rocks of this volcanic formation," says Professor David 
 Forbes, in his pamphlet on the " Geology of South America," 
 
92 TWO TBAES IN PERU. [CHAP. Vl. 
 
 and this locale is styled Cliilim. A considerable 
 part of our road, after emerging from the suburbs, 
 was simply a bridle-path, alongside of a medium- 
 sized azequia, on the banks of which grew 
 wild nasturtians, forming a cheerful fringe, of 
 nearly a mile in length, by their bright scarlet 
 blossoms. The quarry is situated a few hundred 
 feet above the level of the town, and there was 
 nothing noticeable in it save the laissez-aller mode 
 in which the cutters worked. This was also 
 symbolized by the equally impassive pace of the 
 donkeys, wending towards their destination with 
 the square blocks of Sillar fastened to their 
 sides. 
 
 From the position of these quarries, the town 
 looks as if it were in a valley or amphitheatre 
 beneath, and the view beyond is Hmited, as are aU 
 views in this part of the world, by a background 
 of Cordilleras. There is an ice, or rather snow, 
 trade carried on at Arequipa, by men who fetch 
 down the glacier element from Pichu-Pichu. 
 
 Besides five nunneries and churches innume- 
 
 and writing of Arequipa, " are all tracliytie, and frequently pre- 
 sent a most striking similarity to the domite of Auvergne, being 
 like that composed of quartz, black or brown hexagonal mica, 
 and a weathered-looking felspar. They form some four or six 
 beds, superposed one on another, and of an average thickness of 
 about ten feet each. These arc either a white trachytic tufifa, 
 like domite, with abundant embedded fragments of pumice, or a 
 compact trachyte of a reddish or white colour, and similar com- 
 position." 
 
CHAP. VI.J SICK KILLED IN THE EARTHQUAKE. 93 
 
 rable, there are three monastic establishments in 
 this city. We find also a university here — 
 named after the great Father San Augustin 
 — which my Hmited stay in Arequipa did 
 not permit me to visit. It is alongside the 
 convent of San Angustin, that, as a religious 
 house, has been suppressed, and is now a college 
 called " Independencia." But the first rank of 
 colleges in Arequipa belongs to that of San 
 Geronimo, which has sent forth to the world many 
 eminent men — not the least among them being 
 Senor Don Jose Gregorio Paz Soldan, and Dr. T. de 
 Paula Gonzalez Vigil, both men of world-wide fame. 
 
 Amongst other institutions at Arequipa is a 
 retreat for poor priests, — the Hospital of St. 
 Peter. The general hospital of the town is 
 tmforttlnately situated in the very centre of the 
 popTilation, at the convent of San -Juan de Dios 
 (St. John of God), the religious ladies whereof 
 constitute its nurses. It has usually less than a 
 hundred patients, all of whom are badly attended 
 for want of funds. The Orphan House suffers 
 from the same poverty as the hospital. One of the 
 most melancholy reminiscences connected with 
 the earthquake of 1868 is the fact that, although 
 not more than 200 persons were killed during 
 that fi'ightful catastrophe, the greater number of 
 victims in any one locale was at this hospital. 
 
 Crossing the river from one side of the town to 
 the other, there is a bridge of very massive pro- 
 
94 TWO yEABS IN PERU. [cHAP. VI. 
 
 portions, wMcli, althougli only about 100 yards in 
 length, with six large arches and a small one, is 
 said to have cost a million of dollars. 
 
 Thunderstorms are reported to me to be very 
 violent amongst the Cordilleras of Arequipa. Many 
 of the Indian arriSros,* as well as their mules, perish 
 by the Hghtning. The drivers have a supersti- 
 tion that, if there happens to be a white mule 
 amongst the troupe, the lightning will single it 
 out from the lot as its first victim. 
 
 I learn from a book about the Arequipa railway^ 
 that this city was founded by order of Francisco 
 Pizarro, and with solemn proclamation, on the 
 16th of August, 1640. Its first site was behind 
 Caima — that is, on the right-hand side of the river 
 Chile — but afterwards, and subsequent to one of 
 the earthquakes, it was transferred to its p'resent 
 locale. " The etymology of the name," says the 
 book, " is very uncertain. Amongst other guesses 
 the Padre Calancha believes it to be derived from 
 two Quichua words, Ari and Quepai, which signify 
 ' Yes, stay here ; ' because, on the return to 
 Cuzco of the Inca Malta Capac, after having con- 
 quered the provinces of Chumbivilcas, Pariva- 
 cochas, and others, some of his companions, cap- 
 tivated by the beauty of this place, solicited per- 
 
 * Mule-diivers. 
 
 ° Written in Spanish, and ■vvithout the author's name ; pub- 
 lished in Lima, at the State printing-office, in 1871, and dedicated 
 to President Balta and Mr. Henry Meiggs. 
 
OHAP. Vl.] DERIVATION OP NAME OP AEEQUIPA. 95 
 
 mission to remain, and tlie monarcli answered 
 them in the words just mentioned " ® (upon which 
 I presume to comment). 
 
 The Inca who is accredited to have made the 
 first attempt on the coast side was the ninth 
 of his race, Pachacutec. And he, according to 
 GarcUasso de laYega, crossed over into the valley 
 of lea, much higher up than Arequipa. More- 
 over, there was a difference of from a.d. 1126, when 
 Maita Capac came to the throne, and Pachacutec 
 ascended in a.d. 1340. " According to GarcHasso 
 de la Vega, the word Arequipa means * sounding 
 trumpet,' " says the book before me. " But 
 whichever of these is correct," it continues, 
 " there is one thing certain, that this place was 
 inhabited during the time of the Incas." Of 
 which I can find no other proof or evidence. 
 
 I may here take an extract from my note- 
 book made whilst waiting for the train in which 
 
 " Pedro de Cieza de Leon devotes only two pages to Arequipa, 
 and says nothing of this legend. This author went to Peru, in 
 1532 — the city of Lima was founded in 1535, previous to which 
 time the Spaniards had not come down the coast — Arequipa 
 was founded in 1540, and yet in De I,eon's work, published at 
 Seville in 1553, we are informed (page 267, Op. cit. Markham's 
 translation) — " Hubinas, Chiquiguanita, Quimistaga and Col- 
 laguas, are villages belonging to this city (Arequipa), which were 
 formerly very populous, and possessed many flocks of sheep. 
 The civil wars of the Spaniards have now destroyed the greater 
 part, both of the natives and of the sheep." This after thirteen 
 years seems doubtful. Of its occupation by the Licas he says 
 nothing. 
 
96 TWO YBABS IN PEEU. [OHAP. VI. 
 
 I was to go on the road towards Puno : — " All 
 these railroads of Mr. Meiggs, taking them in the 
 order of their geographical position — 1st, from Ilo 
 to Moquegua ; 2nd, from Mollendo to Arequipa, to 
 Puno, and on to Cuzco ; 3rd, from Callao over the 
 Andes to Oroya, and thence (as I hope it wiU extend) 
 to the Uyacali, one of the important sources of the 
 Amazon ; 4th, from Chimbote to Huaraz ; 5th, 
 from Pacasmayo to Guadaloupe, and to Cajamarca 
 — seem to me but the initiatory steps, or breaking 
 of the ice, into Peru. I do not speak authori- 
 tatively — for I hold no claim to be in the con- 
 fidence of Mr. Meiggs on the subject— but simply 
 from my own observations of such of them as 
 I have visited. The result of these makes me 
 opposed to a belief I often hear expressed, — that 
 the lines in question can never pay, or, in fact, 
 never can be a commercial success. Admitted 
 that they are not likely to do so for some time ; 
 but they lead to and connect with lines that 
 must pay, because penetrating through the richest 
 mineral districts in the world. That of the Oroya, 
 after branching off to the silver country of Cerro 
 del Pasco, leads on to the valley of Ohanchamoya, 
 with its teeming fertility, and thence to the Amazon; 
 wliilst that of Arequipa, before going to Cuzco, 
 branches off from Puno to Lake Titicaca, " one of the 
 richest in natural soil of the valleys of the woi'ld." 
 Emerging with the train from the station at 
 Arequipa in a line at right angles fi-om the road 
 
CHAP. VI.] THERMAL WATERS OF TUBA. 97 
 
 by which we came up from MoUendo, we cross a 
 long bridge, a considerable portion of which may 
 be entitled a viaduct ; for only a short fragment of 
 it is required to traverse the Chile river. This 
 bridge is 1680 feet long, and 65 feet high, at the 
 loftiest part of its centre over the water. Soon 
 after crossing, one of my fellow-passengers pointed 
 out to me a place near the Cerro Colorado (Red 
 Hill) — so called, I believe, from its principal stone 
 formation being of a red-coloured trachyte. At 
 this is the position, entitled the " Siete Chumbos " 
 (or Seven Pots of Chicha), from which General 
 Prado bombarded Arequipa in 1867. 
 
 The road from Arequipa to the first station at 
 Totoras, a journey of eight leagues, is a series of 
 curvatures and windings about, still ascending, 
 but with no retrograde journey, as we have 
 between MoUendo and Arequipa. At this station 
 and in front, towards the south, we see before us 
 the lofty mountain of Pan de Azucar, or Sugar 
 Loaf, which is behind the Misti, and is calculated 
 as 17,000 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 At the distance of a mile and a half on the 
 north side of this station is the little town of Yura, 
 which has thermal waters. They are chalybeate 
 and sulphurous, having a very extensive repu- 
 tation. Just about the time of my passing here, 
 a concession had been made to Senor Don Luis 
 Carranaa, Don Bstanislao Pardo Figares, and Don 
 Leandro Loli, for the construction of a bath 
 
 VOL. I. H 
 
98 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. VI. 
 
 establishment at Yura, and for an exclusive 
 monopoly of the same for several years. There 
 was, however, such an opposition got up agaiust 
 it in Arequipa that the National Government at 
 Lima, under the rubric of the Minister of Finance, 
 Senor Masias, immediately did away with it. 
 One of the arguments against the concession was 
 to the effect, that tradition had recorded these 
 waters having been used for medicinal purposes 
 long anterior to the conquest. 
 
 From Totoras to Urajapampa we have a journey 
 of five to six miles, — all the surroundings looking 
 as freshly volcanic as if they were only eruptions 
 of yesterday — ^basaltic, cindery, ashy, sulphurous, 
 solid lava, copper-coloured, and generally grating 
 to the sight. At the station of Aguas Calientes 
 (Warm "Waters), in the valley of Quisco, we are 
 twenty-eight miles from Arequipa, and 3500 feet 
 above that city, as well as a total of more than 
 10,000 feet above the sea level. The sharpness 
 of the air speaks emphatically of the altitude of the 
 position, and suggests thoughts of soroche. There 
 is a small stream of warm water here (whence the 
 name of the place), which has an unvarying tem- 
 perature of 90° Fahr. Parallel with this, and only 
 a few yards distant, runs a rivulet of cold water 
 from the Sumbay : that I am told is the parent 
 source of the Arequipa river, the Chile. 
 
 I visited the hospital with the Padre Auo-ustin 
 Clementin Uriah. This is one of those ambu- 
 
CHAP. VI.] GUAMANGO MAEBLE. 99 
 
 lance hospitals, which Mr. Meiggs has attached 
 to the temporary working-places, or " camps," 
 as they are called, of aU his railways. It has 
 accommodation for about fifty patients ; but there 
 were no more than thirty in it at the time of 
 my visit, — ^the chief disease being of the lungs, 
 from which it is not easy to be cured up here in 
 the thin air, more particularly amongst the 
 natives, who do not, in general, attend to the 
 functions of the skin, as an adjuvant to healthy 
 respiration. 
 
 The old Padre Augustin is an amateur artist, 
 and showed me some excellent busts, although 
 very small, of Mr. Henry Meiggs and his brother 
 John, which he had chiselled with a penknife out 
 of marble brought from the Guamango depart- 
 ment of the valley of Ayacucho. The medical 
 man, Doctor Juan Rafael Sarautz, accompanied 
 me through aU the wards, to see the sick. There 
 is a commodious Botica (apothecaries' room) 
 attached, with accommodation for the padre, 
 doctor, and a few male nurses. The whole is 
 constructed of galvanized iron, and can be taken 
 asunder to be removed farther on, as the line 
 progresses to the interior. 
 
 Twelve leagues beyond this is the Sumbay 
 camp, where a bridge is to cross the river of 
 that name, with a span of 180 feet, and a 
 height of 120 feet over the water. The only 
 tunnel on this line, as far as Puno, is to be in 
 
 H 2 
 
100 T^O TEARS IN PEEtJ. [CHAP. VI. 
 
 the Quisco district, and 323 feet long. At Cachi- 
 pesane, nearly 100 miles interior from where we 
 are now, it appears that a quantity of magnetic stone 
 exists. Mr. Taylor, one of the engineers, who was 
 a fellow-traveller in my return journey from Quisco, 
 tells me that iu the department of Cachepesane 
 the railway line is to run between two lagunas or 
 lakes, at a height of 13,960 feet above the level of 
 the sea. One of these lakes is six miles long and 
 two miles wide. They are sixty miles from Puno, 
 at the Arequipa side. 
 
 At Sumbay, on this Puno railroad, and 
 extending six miles from, the rails to the south- 
 west, has been discovered this year an exten- 
 sive tract of coal. The reports of the chemical 
 analysis made on it by Professor Raimondi, of 
 Lima, as well as of the extent of its veins by the 
 engineer, Mr. Alexander Hall, give highly favour- 
 able accounts of the excellent quahty of the coal. 
 In Lima a company has been formed to work it, 
 under the title of " Industria Carbonifera de Sum- 
 bay," with a capital of 2,000,000 soles. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Eetum from Arequipa. — From Mollendo northwards. — Islay. — 
 Exports thence. — ^The Chincha people. — The Chincha Islands. 
 — Idols found here at depths of thirty-five feet, and sixty-two 
 feet nnder guano. — Guesses at the antiquity of these. — Eegal 
 emhlems from under the guano. — ^First discovery of guano on 
 the Chincha Islands.— Pisco railway.— Pisco town. — ^^lonotony 
 of railroad to lea. — Peruvian Sandwich. — ^Burial-mounds at 
 lea. — Urn with dis-articulated skeleton. — Foundation of lea. — 
 Aqueducts of the aborigines, falsely attributed to Incas. — Gar- 
 cilasso de la Vega. — ^Tirst coast invasion of the Incas made in 
 the valley of lea. — Silver work of art from lea. 
 
 E-ETtrENiNa to Mollendo, I foimd the question on 
 the tajjis — and which I was told had been fre- 
 quently started of late years — to be that of making 
 a railroad ft-om Islay to La Joya, remembered no 
 doubt by my readers, as the mid-way station 
 between Mollendo, and Arequipa, whereat the pas- 
 sengers stop to breakfast. The advocates for this 
 advance two facts : — the first, that in the port of 
 Islay you generally find quiet waters, and therefore 
 an almost unvarying facility of communicating with 
 the shore, whilst in that of Mollendo the tran- 
 quillity of the sea is exceptional. The second is, 
 that from Islay to Arequipa there exists a distance 
 
102 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. VII. 
 
 of only seventy-fiye miles, wliilst from Mollendo 
 to the latter there are more than one hundred 
 miles. 
 
 Those who support the existing state of 
 things aver that the railway from Mollendo to 
 Arequipa being un fait, accompli, it would be very 
 ridiculous to do away Tvith it for a railway from 
 Pisco, only ten miles distant on the shore-line. 
 For neither the passenger nor goods traffic could 
 support two lines of railway here. 
 
 From Mollendo proceeding northward, the first 
 place sighted is Islay. As we approach, and the 
 steamer's anchor is let down, the appearance of 
 the town from the roadstead is of a large birnch 
 of houses huddled together, without any sem- 
 blance of street or open space, except the sur- 
 rounding rocky plateau, to walk upon. High 
 above the houses is the convex, oblong, brown- 
 tiled roof of the church. Islay is said to 
 have about 700 inhabitants. Its chief exports 
 are alpaca, vicuna, and sheep's wool, together 
 with Peruvian bark. Alpaca wool is exported at 
 the rate of sixty to seventy thousand bales per 
 year, each bale from 100 to 120 lbs. in weight. 
 It comes chiefly from Puno, but some of it is like- 
 wise brought from Cuzco. 
 
 The following data were given to me by Mr. A. 
 Barclay, who is at present her Majesty's Acting 
 Consul at this port : — 
 
CHAP. Vn.] EXPORTS FEOM ISLAY. 
 
 103 
 
 WOOL EXPORTED FROM ISLAY, PEEU, IN TEtE YEARS 1869 AND 1870. 
 
 
 Bales. 
 
 Quintals. 
 
 lbs. 
 
 1869. 1st dass Alpaca . 
 2nd class Alpaca 
 Vicnfia .... 
 Sheep .... 
 
 18,431 
 
 6,177 
 
 80 
 
 28,920 
 
 21,298 
 
 4,676 
 
 86 
 
 19,567 
 
 58 
 65 
 75 
 02 
 
 Total 
 
 63,608 
 
 45,629 
 
 00 
 
 1870. 1st class Alpaca . 
 2nd class Alpaca 
 Vienna .... 
 Sheep .... 
 
 17,764 
 
 3,504 
 
 95 
 
 22,950 
 
 21,285 
 
 2,776 
 
 95 
 
 15,489 
 
 21 
 50 
 05 
 25 
 
 Total 
 
 44,303 
 
 39,646 
 
 01 
 
 Between Mollendo andlslay we pass some rocky- 
 islets, on which are slight streaks of guano. On 
 the rooks hereabouts, bounding the coast, is some- 
 thing white, presenting the semblance of hoar 
 frost, but which I am told is pearlash. Past 
 Quilca,' twenty-five miles from Mollendo — a small 
 green bight being the only part visible adjoining 
 the shore, and from whence olives, oil, and 
 wine are exported. This place suffered much 
 from the earthquake of 1868. Prom Quilca, 
 after a voyage of 119 miles, we have a look at 
 Chala — another of these small ports whereat the 
 Pacific Company's steamers call — also producing 
 wine, olives, and wool. Ghala has a church with 
 some houses, all of the same colour as the rock 
 
 ' Mr. Markham tells ns this was the port of Arequipa till the 
 year 1827, when it was supplanted hy Islay. It is mentioned 
 in the same character hy Pedro de Oieza de Leon, but the " great 
 rivers" of which he speaks as being here have dried up. — Op. cit. 
 p. 265. 
 
104 
 
 TWO YEABS IN PEETT- [OHAP. VH. 
 
 on -whicli they are perched. The population is said 
 to be near 200. About thirty-five miles beyond 
 
 STONE IDOL AND WATEK-POTS FOUND 62 FEET UNDEE GUANO. 
 
 Chala we pass Loma, from which the principal 
 exports are cotton and sugar. Then, not much 
 farther on, steaming inside of the Ohincha Islands, 
 anchor is cast in the roadstead of Pisco. 
 
 Long, long time before th§ birds and seals began 
 to accumulate guano on these Chincha Islands — 
 indeed, so long that, on looking at the illustrations 
 subjoined, I am almost afraid to guess — the 
 Ohincha people must have held sway down here. 
 How many thousand years may have passed — ^in 
 a case like this it is nonsense to talk of hundreds 
 — since that stone idol was made and worshipped 
 
CHAP. VII.] ANTIQUITY OP IDOLS. 
 
 105 
 
 before it got by design or accident in a position 
 that the daily droppings of birds and seals covered 
 it to a depth of sixty-two feet?* How many 
 
 WOODEN IDOL FOUKD AT A DEITE OP 35 FEET VTXDKE THE GUANO. 
 
 decades have elapsed between this evidence of the 
 stone age, and the period of the wooden idol 
 discovered at a depth of thirty-two feet, or with 
 twenty-seven feet intervening ? Let us reflect for 
 
 ' Mr. Bollaert tells us tliat Dr. Tschudi kept one of tte guano 
 birds, the Lula variegata, and found its daily weight of excre- 
 ment to be three and a half to five ounces. This would be an 
 erroneous basis to take for calculation, because Dr. Tschudi's 
 bird, being in confinement, must haye left all its deposit in its 
 prison ; -whereas the guano birds on the Chincha and elsewhere 
 are often on the wing in quest of food, and therefore may be 
 supposed to leave part of their droppings abroad. 
 
106 TWO TEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. VII. 
 
 a moment. Is there any living, calculating Pedder, 
 who could find out the quantity of birds it would 
 require, in the ordinary action of such cases, to 
 deposit the smaller of these depths — say of 
 twenty-seven feet — about the height of four men 
 and a half, each six feet high ? and with this to 
 find out the probable period occupied in such 
 operation ? If so, I should like to have it done. 
 And the twenty-seven being doubled, with eight 
 more feet added on, an approximate calculation to 
 be made. " I find myself," observes Mr. Baldwin,^ 
 " more and more inclined to the opinion that the 
 aboriginal South Americans are the oldest people 
 on the continent ; that they are distinct in race, 
 and that the wild Indians of the north came 
 originally from Asia, where the race to which 
 they belong seems stm represented by the Koraks 
 and Chookchees found in that part of Asia which 
 extends to Behring's Straits." 
 
 AH my observations hereabouts, — at Chincha 
 Islands, Pisco, lea, the Caiiete Yalley, and sub- 
 sequently elsewhere, — convince me of the cor- 
 rectness of Mr. Baldwin's opinion in the first 
 sentence stated. The rehcs of household gods 
 and regal emblems, taken from a depth not 
 known to me, but very, very deep, show there 
 must have been a people in the country, who 
 were driven out either by the Chinchas, or by a 
 
 ' "Ancient America." By Jolin D. Baldwin, A.M. 
 
/ 
 
 CHAP. VII.j CHINOHA ANTIQUITY. 107 
 
 tribe -who preceded them. The Chinchas,* be it 
 remembered, were anterior to the Tuncas, who 
 
 EEGAL liMULElIS AND HOUSEHOLD GODS.^ 
 
 were conquered by the Inca Pachacutec in the 
 fifteenth century. Eoyalty could have had no 
 
 * Pedro de Cieza de Leon says, " As to the origin of tlie 
 Indians of Chinclia, they say that, in time past, a quantity of 
 them set out under the banner of a valiant captain of their own 
 tribe, and arrived at this valley of Chincha, where they found 
 many inhabitants, but all of such small stature, that the tallest 
 was barely two cubits high." (Op. cit. p. 260.) Whence they set 
 out we are not told. Don Pedro does not give the same account 
 of the subjugation of these valleys as GarcUasso de la Vega. 
 
 ' One resembling the right-hand emblem is in the Christie Col- 
 lection presented by Mr. Harris, as from Guanape or Maccabee. 
 
108 
 
 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. VII. 
 
 residence on such a small place as this Chincha 
 Island. But no doubt these things were hidden in 
 it, when their proprietors were about to be expelled 
 from their altar firesides by the force of some ruth- 
 less invader. The emblems in this case are made of 
 very hard wood. Of the idols, five of the figures 
 are wooden, and the other two of very coarse 
 pottery-ware. 
 
 The Chincha Islands, three in number, are esti- 
 
 ^^^^^^ "- ^^ 
 
 WOODEN roOL FOUND AT A CEPTH OF 33 FEliT UNDER GUANO. 
 
 mated in 13°38' S.lat. and 79° 13' W.long. They are 
 nearly front of, and only a distance of ten to twelve 
 miles outside, the open roadstead of Pisco. 
 
CHAP. VII.] FIRST CAEGO OF GUANO. 109 
 
 From Gore's Liverpool Directory, I find that 
 South American guano was first imported into 
 Liverpool by the brig" Heroine," fi:om Valparaiso, 
 consigned to Messrs. W. J. Myers and Co., and 
 arrived on the 23rd of July, 1836. It was a 
 sample of only thirty bags, and was given away to 
 parties for experiment. 
 
 In 1866 there were 351,674 tons of guano 
 exported from the Chincha Islands, of which 
 74,861 tons were in British ships. 
 
 But the regular exportation began only in 1841. 
 It was not until 1863 that the Peruvian Govern- 
 ment ordered a survey of the islands, in which 
 they calculated the total amount of guano to exceed 
 twelve millions of tons.* It seems ahnost impossible 
 for the mind to conceive the length of time, and the 
 number of birds required, for such an accumulation. 
 
 " The three Chincha Islands," observes Mr. 
 Markham,' " in the Bay of Pisco, contained a total 
 of 12,376,100 tons of guano in 1853, and as since 
 that time 2,837,366 tons have been exported up 
 to 1860, there were 9,538,735 tons remaining in 
 1861. In 1860, as many as 433 vessels, with a 
 tonnage of 348,654, loaded at the Chincha Islands, 
 so that at the above rate the guano will last for 
 twenty-three years — until 1888." 
 
 I may here point out a few errors in the fore- 
 
 ' " Greography of Peru," p. 47. By M. Felipe Paz Soldan. 
 ' " Travels in Peru and India," ch. xviii. p. 306. London : 
 Murray, 1862. 
 
110 TWO TBAES IN PERU. [cHAP. VII. 
 
 going calculation. In the first place, for cor- 
 roboration of the paragraph, ending at the words 
 " remaining in 1861," the reader is referred to a 
 small pamphlet, with plans, published by the Peru- 
 vian Government in 1854. Secondly, that they were 
 founded on mistaken data is proved by the fact that 
 the guano of the Chincha Islands has been exhausted 
 two years ago, or in 1871. So that here is the 
 supply for nine years to be rubbed out. And 
 thirdly, to base a calculation for so many succes- 
 sive years on the status existing at the period of 
 " the above rate," must have been a foregone con- 
 clusion (as it has proved) without foundation. 
 Becatuse the increasing knowledge of the utility of 
 guano, joined to the daily progressive commerce 
 on the Pacific, should have been considered, to 
 make an estimate approximating to a less exagge- 
 rated result than the foregoing. 
 
 Writing further of the guano, Mr. Markham" 
 says, *' The Peruvians may consider themselves 
 secure of their strange source of revenue for some 
 twenty years to come." It is very difficult to limit 
 the amount of injury done to the Peruvian Govern- 
 ment, as to the PeruArian people, by pubhcation of 
 a statement proved to be so very wide of the mark 
 as this last-mentioned. 
 
 Although guano was said to have been discovered 
 only at the period of the small cargo referred to, it 
 appears to have been known to the Peruvians from 
 ' Op. cit. ch. xviii. p. 308. 
 
CHAP. VII.] PBOM PISCO TO ICA. Ill 
 
 time immemorial.* Stevenson " tells us, " Some 
 small islands at the entrance to the Bay of Pisco 
 are famous for the manure which they produce, 
 and which is embarked and carried to different 
 parts of the coast, and often into the interior, on 
 the backs of mules and llamas. The quantity of 
 this manure is enormous, and its qualities are 
 truly astonishing. 0£ this I shall have occasion 
 -to speak when treating of the cultivation of maize 
 at Chancay." 
 
 On one of my visits to Chancay I saw heaps 
 of guano in the neighbourhood of the Captain of 
 the Port's oflB.ce, where it is stored for use of the 
 agriculturists in the vaUey. 
 
 From the exposed and unruly sea in the road- 
 stead of Pisco we land by means of an iron mole, 
 seven htmdred yards in length. This terminates 
 with the Custom-house on one side, and the Cap- 
 tain of the Port's ofl&ce on the other. Prom hence 
 there is also a line of rails laid down to the station 
 which is near the port, along with from fifteen to 
 twenty business houses, in the shape of shops, and 
 one hotel. But to go to Pisco proper we have 
 
 " Garcilasso de la "Vega, writing of the guano here, says, 
 " Each island was by the Incas set apart for the use of a 
 particular province " (Op. cit. lib. v. cap. viii.) ; whence we 
 might infer there were only three provinces in the Inoa terri- 
 tory. 
 
 " " An Historical and Descriptive Narrative of Twenty Years' 
 Eesidence in South America." By "W. B. Stevenson. Three vols. 
 London : Hurst, Robinson, and Co., 1825. Vol i. p. 357. 
 
112 TWO TEAES IN PBEU. [OHAP. VII. 
 
 a drive of about a mile, a considerable part of 
 whicli is alongside of an ill-flavoured a^equia, or 
 watercourse, and past the railway station. The 
 town itself is a melancholy-looking place, although 
 having a very large church in the centre of a 
 very spacious plaza, where the market stands. 
 Pisco was founded probably not long after Pizarro's 
 time ; for we find that in a.d. 1 640, the then Yice- 
 roy, the Marquis of Mansera, raised it to the 
 position of a city, with the additional nomencla- 
 ture of San Clemente de Mansera. Senor Paz 
 Soldan tells us it was sacked by BngHsh pirates 
 in A.D. 1622, and a.d. 1685. Then it stood by the 
 side of the sea; but in the earthquake of 1687 
 it was destroyed by a great wave; therefore it 
 was subsequently erected where we now find it. 
 So early as 1602 it had a convent of Franciscan 
 Recluses ; in 1634 was erected a like building of 
 St. John of Grod ■ (San Juan de Dios) ; and the 
 temple of San Ignacio was established by the 
 Jesuits in 1700. 
 
 To go to lea * by the railway, we must, however, 
 return to the port. I had the pleasure of being 
 accompanied in my trip on this line by Mr. Grundy, 
 one of the engineers, who superintended the track- 
 laying. It is forty-eight miles from Pisco to lea. 
 
 ' This word is spelt by Senor Don E. Larrabure y Unanue, 
 an. eminent litterateur of Lima, as Eeca. Mr. Unanue is a 
 frequent and graceful contributor to that excellent periodical, 
 ' El Con-eo del Peru." 
 
CHAP. VII.] LAKOE BUETING-MOUNDS. 
 
 113 
 
 When first projected, hopes were entertained that 
 it would be prolonged to the interior districts of 
 Huanca, Vehca, and Ayacucho — the last-named 
 being celebrated as the locale where was fought, 
 on the 9th of December, 1824, one of the most 
 famous battles of the independence period. 
 
 Before starting from Pisco,^ I may observe that 
 there are several very large burying-mounds, or 
 huacas, not far distant from this town. Others are 
 
 MUMMY mOM i. HUACA AT PISCO. 
 
 likewise to be seen ranging along the coast up by 
 Tambo de Mora to the Oanete Valley. But no dif- 
 ference exists in what I have observed of the mum- 
 
 ' Coal has been discovered this year at Paracas, about eight 
 luUes to the south of Pisco. 
 
 VOL. I. I 
 
114 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. VII. 
 
 mies taken out liere, or of the accompaniments in 
 the graves, from those observed in other places. 
 
 The road from Pisco to lea is one of the most 
 dreary and uninteresting that can be imagined. 
 Rocks and sand are everywhere. 
 
 There is scarcely anjrthing worth calling a 
 station along the road — our first stopping-place 
 being at Joanquil, about 16^ miles from Pisco. 
 Here there is a cutting through gypsum, and about 
 half a dozen date-trees away to the right, making 
 a most miserable failure to appear as an oasis in 
 the desert. While the train stops I had the first 
 acquaintance of that most unappetizing condiment, 
 the Peruvian sandwich,' sold by the Cholo women 
 at what may be styled the embryo stations. This 
 and chicha (the brew of Indian corn) seem to be- 
 the chief things relished by the natives. The sand- 
 ■wich must be a thing most difficult of digestion, 
 unless to a stomach of ostrich organization. It is 
 composed of a little roll of bread half-baked. Cut 
 in two, we have in the centre a slice of pork, a 
 shrimp, an olive, bit of sausage, over all which is 
 poured some oil for sauce, and the article is 
 ready. 
 
 After journeying across forty-eight miles of a 
 country, every inch of which was suggestive of 
 the Afi-ican Sahara, the freshness of the valley of 
 lea, with its cornfields, trees, and vineyards, was 
 
 ^ It is willed Buti/drra, which, I ohserve in the Dictionary, is 
 the orthodox Spanish word for sausage. 
 
CHAP. VII. J PERUVIAN CROCKBET-WAEE. 116 
 
 very pleasant. The town itself is enough to 
 give one the glooms for many years. Every house, 
 as at Arequipa, speaks the word " Earthquake " in 
 all its features. There are a few hotels, not the 
 worst of which is the " Hotel Americano," with the 
 anomaly of being kept by an Italian. About one 
 mUe outside the town is the hacienda of Senor 
 Don .Enrique Martinez, to whose brother I was 
 introduced at the railway station by Mr. Grrundy. 
 To this I made a visit for the purpose of ex- 
 ploring a Huaca. 
 
 At the farm of Senor Martinez I found no- 
 thing in the shape of building, mound, or other 
 erection. In his yard was a portion of ground 
 elevating gradually to the wall, and in no place 
 rising more than a few feet above the circumjacent 
 soil. In this I was told bodies were buried. But, 
 although there were a few arm-bones lying scattered 
 about, and no inconsiderable quantity of bits of old 
 Peruvian crockery-ware, nothing resulted from a 
 few hours' labour of excavation. 
 
 At another bui*ying-ground, however, a mile or 
 so farther on, I had better results. Here I em- 
 ployed, for a dollar, a man who worked some hours 
 in digging, and did it in a style that I never 
 saw surpassed by an Bnghsh navvy. The result 
 was several dishes of very plain pottery, and some 
 few bodies. All of the latter crumbled into ashes 
 the moment they came into contact with the ex- 
 ternal air. Here also was taken out of a grave 
 
 I 2 
 
116 TWO YEARS IN PEEU. [cHAP. VII. 
 
 a crock or urn, about two feet high, or thereabouts, 
 which contained the whole of the bones of a human 
 being. It came to be rapidly disintegrated on 
 exposure to the air^ like those previously disin- 
 terred. I did not think of examining whether it 
 was of man or woman. The joints no doubt had 
 been disarticulated, or separated one from the 
 other, before being put into this urn. The last- 
 named likewise contained some burnt cloth, and a 
 quantity of ashes. 
 
 The most curious fact connected with this in- 
 terment of a body in an urn appears that the same 
 practice took place with the Indians at the 
 Bracho'' in Santiago del Bstero, a province of 
 the Argentine Hepublic, at the other side of the 
 Andes. These people last-mentioned present a 
 strange feature amongst their Spanish-speaking 
 neighbours, namely, that their idiom is the 
 Quichua, the ancient language of Peru, and that 
 not two out of the whole community can talk a 
 word of Spanish. I sent this urn from lea to 
 Dr. Barnard Davis; but unfortunately it was 
 broken on the voyage. 
 
 The city of lea was first founded in the year 
 1663, near Tacaraca, which is four miles to the 
 south-east of the present site. But the terrible 
 earthquake of 1571 obliged the inhabitants to alter 
 
 * Vide Author's " Buenos Ayres and Argentine Gleanings " 
 p. 175. Stanford, London, 18C5. 
 
CHAP. VII.] REMAINS OF AQUEDUCTS. 1I7 
 
 the position, and the town built after that is now 
 called the old one (Pueblo viejo). Subsequent 
 earthquakes in 1647 and 1664 gave it other shak- 
 ings ; and another new town was built close to the 
 ancient. It is very difficult, looking at it now, to 
 imagine that there ever could have been a,nything 
 of new connected with it. The exports from lea 
 through Pisco are wine, Aguardiente, Italia (a sort 
 of brandy), cotton, and cochinilla. This city is 
 the capital of the province, which contains seven 
 districts, and a reputed population of 14,000 in- 
 habitants. 
 
 Paz Soldan, in his "Geography of Peru,"' speak- 
 ing of one of these districts called Nasca, says, 
 / " There can be seen in Nasca the remains of the 
 aqueducts of the Incas, that astonish the beholder 
 by the grandeur of their construction. I am 
 sorry not to be able to give an exact description of 
 them. I can only say that they are two walls of 
 rough stone, with flags on top to form the aque- 
 duct, which in parts is so high that one can walk 
 inside without stooping. They are from four to 
 five feet in height, and about three in width. 
 Some of them are narrow. There are so many 
 that it is not possible to count them." 
 
 Besides this, Senor Paz Soldan tells us in the 
 next sentence, " At eight leagues from Pisco are 
 the remains of a palace, which in the present 
 
 = Page 568. 
 
118 TWO YEARS IN PEKU. [OHAP. VII. 
 
 day is called the Tambo^ Golorada (or coloured 
 milk-shop). Said palace was constructed by the 
 Incas, under the reign of Pachacutec, in whose 
 time the conquest of this valley was effected." ^ 
 
 To these two statements my subsequent travels 
 oblige me to give a most unqualified denial. For 
 neither the aqueducts nor the palace could have 
 been made by the Incas, who came here, as it wiU 
 be seen, to destroy everything. On these same 
 matters, GarcUasso de la Vega,* jfrom whom 
 Senor Paz Soldan takes his cue, has written a 
 tissue of — to use the mildest terms — ^the most 
 meagre of fables. 
 
 Before going into Grarcilasso's volume I wish to 
 point out that another author, and native like him, 
 descended likewise from Incaite blood, has been 
 recently brought to light,® who records the invasion 
 
 ° The word Tambo is also applied to some towns in the north. 
 
 ' Pedro de Cieza de Leon saj's, " In this valley of lea (he 
 spells it Yea) there were great lords who were much feared and 
 reverenced. The Tncas ordered palaces and other buildings to 
 be made in this valley." It is very curious there is not even a 
 vestige of these Inca palaces, whilst the ruins of the Indians, who 
 preceded them, are about everywhere. 
 
 ' Commentarios Eeales, que tratan de el Origen de los Incas, 
 Eeies que fueron del Peru, de su Idolatria, Leies, y Govierno en 
 paz y en guerra, de sus vidas y Conquistas, y de todo lo que fue 
 aquel Imperio, y su Eepublica, antes que los Espanoles pasaron 
 a el, escritos por el Inca Garcilass de la Vega, Natural de Cuzco, 
 y Capitan de Su Majestad, Madrid, 1609. Of this work a 
 translation into English has been made by Mr. Clements E. 
 Markham, and published by the Hakluyt Society. 
 
 ' " Narrative of the Eites and Laws of the Yncas." Trans- 
 
CHAP. Vn.] CONTfiADIOXOET HISTORY. 119 
 
 of the Incas in tlie coast valleys as from north to 
 south, whilst the former brings them from south to 
 north. Juan de Santa Oruz Pachacuti-Yamqui Salca 
 Mayhua, whose great, great, grandfathers were 
 amongst the first to embrace the Christianity of 
 Pizarro at Cajamarca, after several pages' profes- 
 sion of his faith, thus writes : — " The Tnca Paca- 
 chuti obtained great sums of gold, silver, and 
 umina (emeralds), and he came to an island 
 of the Yuncas, where there were many pearls 
 called churwp inamam, and many more umihas. 
 Thence he marched to the country of Chimu, 
 where was Chimu Capac, the chief of the Yuncas, 
 who submitted (?) and did all that was required 
 of him. The curaga of Cassamarca, named Pi$ar 
 Capac, did the same. The Ynca then marched 
 along the coast [from Chimoo south] to B,imac 
 Yuncas, where he found many small villages, each 
 with its huaca (idol). Here he found Chuspi- 
 liuaca and Puma-huaca, and a great devil called 
 Aissa-vilca. He then advanced by Pacha-Camac 
 to Chincha, where he found another huaca and 
 devil. Returning to Pacha-Camac, he rested there 
 for some days. At that time there was hail and 
 thunder, which terrified the Yuncas. The Ynca 
 did not demand tribute here as he had done in the 
 other provinces." Thus it may be seen, that whilst 
 
 lated from the original Spanish MSS., and edited with ISTotes 
 and Illustrations, hy Clements E. Markham, C.B., P.E.S. 
 London, 1873. Printed for the Hakluyt Society. Page 94. 
 
120 TWO YEAKS m PERU. [CHAP- VH. 
 
 Juan de Santa Cruz traces the Inca progress from 
 north to south, Garcilasso does the reverse — ^from 
 south to north. 
 
 According to Mr. Markham,' — " Xeres [this 
 was Francis Xeres, Secretary to the conqueror 
 Pizarro] never seems to have heard the -word 
 Ynca [so spelt by Mr. Markham in contradis- 
 tinction to Garcilasso, who has it Inca]. He calls 
 the Ynca Huayna Capac — the father of Atahualpa 
 and Huascar, by the name of ' Old Cuzco ' 
 throughout — mistaking the name of the capital 
 city for the name of the sovereign. He also calls 
 Huascar ' Young Cuzco.' Hernando Pizarro (bro- 
 ther of the conqueror) makes the same mistake." 
 
 From -which it might be inferred that the Incas, 
 or Yncas, were not invented till after the con- 
 quest — perhaps -when Polo de Ondegardo first 
 -wrote of them in 1550. 
 
 In the 13th chapter of the 3rd book of 
 the Commentaries, we are told that the Inca 
 Capac Yupanqui, the fifth of his race, conquered 
 many provinces in Cuntisuyu, and after subduing 
 the Quichuas, reduced many valleys on the coast 
 of the sea — that is the Pacific. All tbe people in 
 these valleys were named Yimcas, which signifies 
 " warm ground."' The valleys, so subdued, were 
 called Hacari, Vina, Camana, Caravelli, Picta, 
 
 ' " Eeports of the Discoveries of Peru." Translated and 
 edited by Clements E. Markham, C.B. London. Printed for 
 the Hakluyt Society, 1872. Page 33. 
 
i 
 
 CHAP. VII. J INVASIONS OP COAST VALLEYS. 121 
 
 Quellca, and others. Of these I can find only 
 Acari (no doubt Haoari), Camana, and Quilca — 
 three which are to the north of Islay, between it 
 and Nasca — on the latest map of Peru, published 
 with, this book. 
 
 The chief invasions of the coast valleys took 
 place under the reign of Pachacutec,' the ninth 
 of the Incas, and were chiefly carried on by 
 the Inca's brother, named Capac Tupanqui, and 
 his son and heir, Inca Tupanqui, a lad of 
 only sixteen years old on his first expedition. 
 Pachacutec, with his brother and son, set out 
 from Cuzco with an army of sixty thousand men, 
 one half of which was to remain as a corps 
 de reserve at the appointed halting-place, which 
 was Rucana, seen on the map as San Juan de 
 Lucana. Here the Inca stopped with thirty 
 thousand men, whilst the other moiety went on 
 to Nanasca (no doubt the present Nasca). 
 Thence the brother general sent a peaceful kind 
 of message to the rulers of the lea and Pisco 
 valleys — namely, that he came to put them under 
 the sweet government of the Incas, with the pro- 
 vision that they should give up adoring their 
 heathen gods, and worship the sun, who was the 
 father of Pachacutec. 
 
 These people, having found that they could get 
 no succour from the neighbouring tribes of the 
 valley of Chincha, submitted. All the Yuncas 
 ° Op. cit. b. vi. cli. iviL p. 191. 
 
122 TWO TEAES IN PERU. [cHAP. VII. 
 
 of the coast at the time worshipped the sea and 
 its products — more especially sardines — where- 
 with they manured their land. This was of course 
 independent of their family idols. 
 
 Polo de Ondegardo tells us : ' — " The Incas 
 were for a long time unable to conquer more 
 than the provinces bordering on Cuzco until the 
 time of Pachacuti Yuca Yupanqui. His father had 
 been defeated by the Chancas and retreated 
 to Cuzco, leaving his troops in a pucara (for- 
 tress). Then the son formed an army out of 
 the fugitives, and out of the garrison of Cuzco, 
 and out of the men of Canes and Caneches, and 
 tm:ned back to attack the Chancas. Before lie set 
 out, his mother had a di'eam — that the reason of 
 the victory of the Chancas was that more venera- 
 tion was sliown for the Sun than Pechayachic, who 
 was the universal creator. Henceforward a promise 
 was made, that more sacrifices and prayers should 
 be made to that statue." 
 
 This, it may be seen, is diametrically opposed to 
 GarcUasso delaVega,who makes the Pacha-Camac,* 
 (no doubt, the prototype or alter et ego of Pachay- 
 achic,) to be worshipped only interiorly, whereas 
 here he is spoken of as regards his statue. 
 
 ' "Narrative of the Rites and Laws of tlie Yucas." Traiis- 
 lat€<i from the origiual Spanish MSS., &c., by Clements E. 
 Markham, C.B., F.E.S. Printed for the Hakluyt Society. 
 London, 1873. Page 154. 
 
 ■* Cdmac means Creator, and Pacha the world. — Cieza de 
 Leon, Op. cit. p. 253. 
 
/ 
 
 / 
 
 CHAP. VII. J CONQUERrNG INCAS. 323 
 
 In tlie valley of lea — Garcilasso continues* — 
 " the Incas ennobled themselves by making most 
 beautiful azequias, or aqueducts, to bring water 
 from the lofty mountains, on its journey from 
 east to west. For the small river which ran 
 through the valley carried very little water ia the 
 winter time, and the residents sufiFered much from 
 want of it. But with the help of the azequias, 
 "\vhich were larger than the natural stream, their 
 crops were plentifully supplied, so that ever 
 after they lived in great abundance and pros- 
 perity." ^ 
 
 In the next column to this we are told that the 
 conquering Incas, having gained the allegiance of 
 the valleys of lea and Pisco, sent like messages to 
 the ruler of the Ohincha valley — a powerful chief, 
 who was recommended to give up the idolatry of his 
 joeople, and come over to the true faith of the sun 
 worship. With this was sent the advice, if they did 
 not do it willingly, to take up arms as soon as they 
 pleased, for the Incas came to compel them. They 
 replied to the first message, that they did not want 
 the Inca for their king, nor the sun for their god ; 
 that they had gods of their own to adore, and a 
 king to serve ; that their chief god was the sea, 
 of which they had a higher opinion than they 
 could have of the sun ; that the former gave them 
 fish, whilst the latter scorched up their soil and 
 
 = Op. cit. p. 192. 
 
 ° This is copied from Cieza de Leon. 
 
124 TWO YEAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. VII. 
 
 prevented its yielding sufficient fruits ; that their 
 land and cUmate was hot enough without making 
 devotions to the sun, who made it hotter. They 
 wanted no strangers in their land, and there was 
 no necessity for Pachacutec to advise their taking 
 up arms, as they were always prepared to fight in 
 defence of their gods, their liberty, and their 
 country. Their god, they added, was Chincha 
 Camac, who was the creator and supporter of their 
 native place So that the Incas had better return 
 to their own country, and not begin a war with 
 the Lord and King of Chincha, the brave Ohu- 
 qui-Mancu, who was one of the most powerful of 
 princes. 
 
 These Chincha people, Garcilasso confesses, were 
 not the original occupiers of the soil here. For 
 they, according to a tradition of their own, had 
 come from foreign parts, although they knew not 
 whence, and with a captain-general,' as religious 
 as he was brave, took possession of this valley by 
 force of arms. War in this case did not require 
 much, as their predecessors — the old story — were 
 a vile, contemptible, and sneaking race. Therefore 
 they were all rooted out without leaving one. 
 Here an inquiry may be suggested : "Were the 
 Chinchas, or their predecessors, the builders of 
 these mounds and fortresses in the valley which 
 bears their name ? 
 
 ' Likewise copied from Pedro de Cieza de Leou. Vide chap, 
 vii. p. 106. 
 
CHAP. VII.] DESTRUCTION OF AQUEDUCTS. 125 
 
 No information on this subject can, at any 
 rate, be gained from Garcilasso ; for in the next 
 chapter I feel myself once more puzzled by the 
 author's anachronisms. 
 
 We are expected to believe that the Incas, 
 coming down here to make war, carved out, as 
 they must have done in such a short time, and by 
 something of the Jack and the Bean-stalk process, 
 azequiasfor the Yuncas to bring water from the lofty 
 moimtains. In the same page with this we learn 
 that the campaign proceeded with great cruelty 
 and slaughter on both sides, " the Yuncas fighting 
 to defend their country, and the Incas to enlarge 
 their empire, honour, and fame." Now and then 
 the Incas sent messages to the besieged, offering 
 peace and friendship on the old terms, all of 
 which were refused most courageously. The 
 fighting continued for several months, during 
 which the army from Cuzco had to be renewed 
 three different times, 90,000 men being thus 
 required. 
 
 But the General Capac Yupanqui tried the 
 plan of starving them out, by laying waste their 
 crops, as well as by besieging them more closely. 
 Moreover, says Garcilasso, " he ordered to have 
 their azequias or aqueducts broken up, so that 
 they could not irrigate their fields ; and this was 
 most sensibly felt by -the Yuncas, because, as 
 their land is so warm, and the sun burns it 
 up so much, it was indispensable to have it 
 
126 
 
 TWO TEAES IN PERU. [cHAP. VII. 
 
 irrigated every three or four days to enable it to 
 give fruit." 
 
 Depriving tliem of water was,, of course, suc- 
 cessful in bringing tlie operations to a. close — 
 of water brought to their fields by aqueducts, 
 which must have been made by the Yuncas 
 themselves, or their predecessors. For the Incas, 
 never having been in this locale previously, could 
 have nothing to do with the azequias on the sea- 
 coast valleys. 
 
 GarcHasso denies, what he says some authors 
 state, that this war lasted many years instead of 
 months : but the more I read of his book the less 
 faith have I in it. Especially when he tries to 
 depreciate the Yuncas of lea, Pisco, and the 
 Chincha valleys as dirty and of idle habits — quali- 
 ties not at all likely to be held by people who were 
 
 SIL\'KR CYLINDER FKOM ICA. 
 
 SO advanced in the arts, as is shown by the silver 
 cylinder accompanying this. The figure is caused 
 by stamping from behind, and the form of the 
 
CHAP. VII.] PERSISTENCE OF TYPE. 
 
 127 
 
 whole work is exactly similar to one which I 
 hold in my possession, that was taken out of a 
 burial-place at Chan-Ohan, the capital of Chimoo, 
 and. nearly a thousand miles farther north. 
 This one was got in a burial-place at Ic'a. It was 
 lent to me, for taking a copy, from the collection 
 
 tiiLS 
 
 
 
 FACE OF PEETIODS SILVEE CTLINDEE. 
 
 of Senor Don Miceno Espantoso at Lima. In art, 
 therefoi'e, as in craniology, we may recognize a 
 persistence of type. 
 
CHAPTER Till. 
 
 The Yalley of Cliincha. — Tambo de Mora and Canete. — Cerro 
 de Azul roadstead. — Chuqtii^Mancu. — Sugar estates in Canete 
 Valley. — Necessity of exploring the ruins ahonf here. — Crea- 
 tion of Society of Pine Arts by President Pardo. — Exhuming 
 skulls from the Cerro del Oro. — ^Particulars of things got 
 out. — Bosina, or shell-trumpet. — Eide through ihe Canete 
 Valley. — Chinese labourers. — Their joss-houses. — ^Prescott's 
 opinion of Garcilasso de la Vega. — Progress of the invading 
 Incas through Canete Valley. — Huarcu and Eunahuanac. — 
 Eeputed Inca fortress at Hervay. — Olives from Seville. — 
 Vessels of Pacific Steamship Company, — Limits of Callao 
 jurisdiction. 
 
 Still I am bound northward from Pisco, past tlie 
 small rivulets of Pisco and Caucato, beyond whicli 
 the equally diminutive stream of Chinclia empties 
 itself into the sea. From hence, skirting a long 
 stretch of valley by Tambo de Mora, and Chincha 
 Alta, in which I recognize ancient and modern 
 institutions quite close to each other — namely, the 
 grave-mounds and ruins of old forts adjacent to 
 sugar manufactories, with their lofty chimneys, 
 indicating the presence of steam-engines. The 
 best way to get into the Chincha valley, or 
 Canete (as it is now called, from the extensive 
 plantations of sugar-cane), is to land at Cerro 
 Azul, whence I can get up in a tramway to 
 
CHAP. VIII.J FORTRESS OF CANOHARI. 129 
 
 either of the three haciendas belonging to my very 
 good friend, Mr. Henry Swayne, of Lima. 
 
 The province of Oanete is a very important 
 one, as well as very extensive. It is about fifty- 
 seven miles in -width, and occupies a shore face 
 to the Pacific of 270 miles, namely, fi-om Tambo de 
 Mora, which is its southern boundary, outside the 
 province of Pisco, to the hacienda of San Pedro, 
 dividing it from the province of Lima, a few niHes 
 south of the far-famed Pacha-Oamac. The whole 
 valley is occupied with sugar plantations, and it 
 has often been a wonder to me, that a railway 
 hence to Lima has not been opened, as I believe 
 no better paying railway could be established in 
 Peru. The roadstead of Cerro Azul is one of the 
 most violent on the coast, and sometimes for many 
 days communication cannot be made between the 
 shore and ships, riding at anchor a few hundred 
 yards off. 
 
 After what I have submitted of Senor Paz 
 Soldan's dogma about aqueducts and the palace of 
 the Incas at lea, it may perhaps be unnecessary to 
 state that I cannot agree with him or with Senor 
 Don E. Larrabure y Unanue in reference to -the 
 azequias and the old palace here. These are 
 accredited by both gentlemen just named, as 
 well as by Garcilasso de la Vega (from whom, no 
 doubt, they took the idea), to have been works of 
 the Incas. Mr. Soldan speaks of the " Palacio del 
 Inca " (Palace of the Inca) as well as of a fortress 
 
 VOL. T. K 
 
130 TWO TEAES IN PEKU. [cHAP. Vlll. 
 
 in the valley of Limaliuaiia, one of the districts of 
 Canete, both of which works he writes of, as done 
 by the Incas. The grand fortress, it appears, was 
 nearly all pulled down in the seventeenth century, 
 by the Viceroy Oonde de Monclova, to build up the 
 castle of Callao. 
 
 Yet Senor Unanue does not go so far as Mr. 
 Soldan. For though to a certain Extent walking in 
 the tracks of Garcilasso de la Vega, he describes 
 the ruias of Canchari, which he suggests was eitber 
 the residence of some powerful Yunca, or of the 
 King Chuqui-Mancu himself. The description which 
 he gives of it would apply to many such ruins of 
 greater extent, that I have visited only a few miles i 
 outside of Lima in the Huatica valley. He then 
 sketches the fortress of Chuqui-Mancu, no doubt 
 the one over the desecration of which Mr. 
 Soldan mourns. This fortress stood not far fi'om 
 the river Caiiete, between a chain of small hills, 
 that bounded the valley on the eastern side. The 
 conquest of the brave king who occupied it was 
 not a walk over, like that at lea and Pisco, as 
 Senor Unanue tells us that bloody battles were 
 fought during eight months, and the army of the 
 Inca had to be renewed four times from Cuzco. 
 Each of these levies consisted of thirty thousand 
 men, so that there was needed a force of one 
 hundred and twenty thousand.' The account of 
 the bulwarks resembles exactly a description of the 
 ' " Correo del Peru," Nos. 13, U, and 16, vol. i. 
 
CHAP. VIII.] MONUMENT OF HEEVAE. 131 
 
 grand ruins of La Campana, and San Miguel in the 
 Huatica valley, of which I shall speak hereafter. 
 
 Chuqui-Mancu vras called the lord of four 
 valleys — ChiUca, Huarcu, Eunahuanac, MaUa — 
 and his subjugation was a great thing. But I 
 am inclined to beheve many readers will agree 
 with me in requiring other evidence than that of 
 Garcilasso de la Vega, to suppose that the so- 
 called monument of Hervae was built in the valley 
 of Huarcu by the Incas to commemorate their 
 great victories here.^ "When Garcilasso de Vega 
 came to look at this place in 1560 (less than two 
 hundred years after it was reported to have been 
 built by order of Pachacutec), it was in a state of 
 / deplorable ruin — a thing perfectly impossible after 
 ; such a short period, in a climate so conservative of 
 everything as Peru. This building is described as 
 having been constructed of the best materials of 
 workmanship. There are many more niches in 
 the walls of it than in either of the other two 
 edifices, and therefore it is more likely to have 
 been a temple for the heathen gods of the Tuncas, 
 than a memorial erected by people, who professed 
 that they came to root out idolatry, and to substi- 
 tute for it the worship of thet Sun. The principal 
 walls were built of Adobones, or colossal mud bricks, 
 ' Dr. I. Von Tschudi, speaking of Paramanca, a similar edifice 
 to lliis, but farther up the coast, says, " It was not, however, 
 built as a monument of victory; for such monuments were 
 always erected in Cuzco, the capital, and never on the field of 
 battle." (Tschudi's "Travels in Pern," p. 289.) 
 
 K 2 
 
132 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. VIJI. 
 
 in the same style, as the fort of Chuqui-Mancni. 
 Its -walls had been scratched over by some of the 
 conquerors coming here with Pizarro, who appa- 
 rently had no one to fight against in these valleys, 
 and whose soldiers, probably, were some of the 
 first that dug down into the building under the 
 ridiculous impression that the Incas had hidden 
 treasure here. 
 
 All through this valley, over much of which I 
 rode in company with Mr. Martin (the super- 
 intendent of Mr. Swayne's hacienda at Quebrada), 
 burial-mounds are passed everywhere. Of such 
 as these Mr. Squier speaks in relation of his 
 exploration in the United States :^ — "The moundsi 
 and their contents, as disclosed by the mattock '^ 
 and the spade, serve more particulai'ly to reflect 
 light upon their customs, and the condition of 
 the arts amongst the natives who buUt them. 
 Withia these mounds we must look for the only 
 authentic remains of their builders. They are 
 the principal depositories of ancient art; they 
 cover the bones of the distinguished dead of 
 remote ages, and hide from the profane gaze of 
 invading races the altars of the ancient people." 
 That the existing Government of Peru is about, 
 even at the eleventh hour, to take these principles 
 into consideration, is shown by the fact that it is 
 keeping pace with the progress of the times. The 
 
 ^ "Ancient Monuments of the JlississippiVallej'.'' Published 
 by the Smithsonian Institute, 1847. 
 
CHAP. Viri.J EXPLOEATION OP MOUNDS. 
 
 133 
 
 first step has been taken by a decree of his Excel- 
 lency the President, Senor Don Manuel Pardo, 
 issued on the 17th of December last, constituting 
 a Society of Fine Arts (Sociedad de Bellas Artes), 
 one of the objects of which is to have a National 
 Museum in the Exhibition Palace at Lima. 
 
 From one of these burial-grounds at Canete has 
 
 TERRA-COTTA MASK FOUND TN A HUACA- 
 
 been dug out a mask of terra-cotta, similar to that 
 of which there is a drawing in Mr. Squier's report 
 of his explorations in the State of New York. The 
 
134 TWO TEARS IN PEEP. [CHAP. VIII. 
 
 latter was discovered some years ago in making 
 excavations for the St. Lawrence canal. The one 
 illustrated here is to be seen in its original amongst 
 the articles, shown at the Exhibition Palace, from 
 the National Museum at Lima. 
 
 During my stay at Canete I rode on another day. 
 
 '-is*' 
 
 BOSINA, TKOST VIEW. 
 
 in company with Mr. Swayne's general superin- 
 tendent, Mr. William Renwick, to the top of the 
 hill called the Cerro del Oro. Some people say it 
 
 • ' The stell called "Bosina," I am informed by Senor 
 Eaimondy, was used as a trumpet by the Indians, to announce 
 the approach of any great man into a town. The title above 
 indicated is given on account of the sound produced bj' blowin'^ 
 into it having resemblance to the roar of a bull. The tassels on 
 it are of human hair, and the leather strap holding it is of 
 exquisite workmanship. It was lent to me for pliotographino- 
 by Mr. "Walter Shaw (Pacific Steam Navigation Company), of 
 Callao, but I learnt subsequently it had been dug up at 
 Canete. 
 
CHAP. VIII.] SILVER FOUND IN GRAVES. 135 
 
 derives this title from tte quantity of gold found 
 liere by the Spaniards. That they made extensive 
 excavations is evident from the fact of some thou- 
 sands of human skulls lying exposed to the sun, 
 mingled with leg, arm, and rib bones, as well as 
 with pieces of cloth, and masses of cotton flock, 
 that enveloped the bodies in their- interment. 
 These are all on the side of the hill which faces 
 the south. On the top are very extensive ruins of 
 
 BOSIXA, BACK TfEW. 
 
 houses, consisting of only parts of walls, and in the 
 centre of which appears to have been a large fort. 
 From these graves, too, were taken out several 
 copper and silver pins, of the class with which 
 shawls are fastened, tweezers for pulling out the 
 hair of eyebrows, of the eyelids, and whiskers, 
 as well as silver drinking-cups. 
 
 On the day that I went across part of this valley 
 with Mr. Martin, we passed through ruins innu- 
 merable — ruins of houses, walls, burying-mounds, 
 
136 TWO YEAES IN PEEtJ. [CHAP. VIII. 
 
 and forts. To all of these in Peru tlie name of 
 Huaca is indiscriminately given. The word Huaca, 
 according to Garcilasso de la Vega, is derived from 
 a verb vrhich signifies " to weep," and therefore 
 appears to me to be applicable only to the mounds, 
 "which are known to contain dead bodies. At one 
 part of our journey, after rounding a hill beyond 
 Hualcara — the principal sugar estate of Senor 
 Ramos of Lima — we came to an aqueduct, or 
 azequia, which had half a mile in length of a 
 tunnel, and that was from four to five feet in 
 height. This is reputed to have been constructed 
 by a Spanish padre named Olairda, who wrote a 
 book under the title of " El Evangelic del Triumfo" 
 (the Gospel of Triumph). It runs under the 
 Cerro de Andala, and is a work of pre-eminent 
 utility to the lower grounds. For my part, I 
 am not inclined to believe it was done by other 
 persons than the oiiginal holders of the soil here, 
 unless better testimony than the ijjse dixit of any 
 man can be given to me. 
 
 On returning to the sugar manufactory of Que- 
 brada, we passed through what is called the 
 Pueblo Yiejo. It is said to have been the site 
 of the ancient Huarco, where Pizarro and Almao-ro 
 met in one of their conferences. We also skirt 
 the hacienda of Montalvan, formerly belonoino- to 
 the celebrated O'Higgins, one of the heroes of 
 Independence. This estate was presented to the 
 valiant old man by the Peruvian Government; but 
 
CHAP. Vin.j MB. SWATNE's HACIENDAS. 137 
 
 it is now in the hands of an Italian company, 
 having its head-quarters at Lima. Another tunnel 
 is reported to be on the estate of La Imperial, and 
 accredited to have been made by the Conde de la 
 Yega, when viceroy at Lima. But I did not care 
 to see it, as I have no faith in such work hav- 
 ing been done at any time by Spanish priests, or 
 viceroys. 
 
 Mr. Swayne has got four estates here, namely, 
 Quebrada, Casa Blanca, Huaca, and Carillos, all 
 of which are communicable one with another by 
 traruways. The ploughing on these is done by 
 steam ploughs. Besides, he has a farm near Cerro 
 Azul, another close to Chihal, and a hacienda at 
 Ungara on the southern side of the second range 
 of hills, that i-un transversely through the valley, 
 and south of the Canete river. His property in this 
 valley includes an extent of more than ten thousand 
 acres, and has an annual produce of more than two 
 millions of dollars' worth in rum and sugar. 
 
 At the Quebrada I first saw Chinese labourers 
 on the coast of Peru. Their treatment is excep- 
 tionally good, and on Mr. Swayne's different 
 properties they number beyond fifteen hundred. 
 They have their joss-houses, and their opium- 
 smoking saloons, without both of which it would 
 be as difficult to make them work as the pro- 
 verbial impossibilities " to wash the blackamoor 
 white, or make the leopard change his spots." 
 There is a hospital for them, which is daily 
 
138 TWO VBAES IN TEBU. [cHAP. VITI. 
 
 attended by tlie Doctor from Canete town, and 
 they seem to be as happy as the day is long. 
 
 Owing to the state of ill-health in which I was 
 when down at Canete, I regretted very much not 
 being able to explore any more of it. But 1 
 brought away with me some specimens of skuUs 
 from the Cerro del Oro, procured through the kind 
 assistance furnished by Mr. William Renwick. 
 These form part of the instalment which I sent 
 to the Anthropological Institute of London, that 
 were exhibited on the 1st of April in this year, and 
 about "which a paper was read by Professor Busk, 
 F.R.S., President of the Society. In the illus- 
 tration of these the celebrated craniologist, Dr. J. 
 Barnard Davis, of Henley, took part, and I believe 
 they created considerable interest at the meeting.^ 
 
 Besides these relics of humanity I obtained some 
 shngs that were found in the graves, with a few 
 specimens of little wooden idols, one of which is 
 very curious, as representing the large lobes of the 
 ears of a warrior with a cocked hat, and holding 
 what appears to be a shield in his hand. He 
 is not armed, and may therefore be supposed 
 to be doing only the "head-work." In this we 
 have such a case of enlarged ear-lobe as is spoken 
 of by Mr. Harrison,'^ although in the case before 
 us certainly not traceable to the Incas. 
 
 I did not leave Caiiete at all satisfied with the 
 
 ■■^ V'iih Appendix A. 
 
 ■■ "Journal of the Anthropological Institute of Great Britain 
 
CHAP. VIII. J WABKIOR WITH COOKED HAT. 
 
 139 
 
 account of the conquest of these Chincha valleys 
 given by Garcilasso de la Vega, whose book I 
 studied during my stay of a week at Mr. Swayne's 
 
 WOODEN IDOLS rROM HUACA. 
 
 sugar estate of La Quebrada. The more I read of 
 this work, the more it appears to me as made 
 to order, — to glorify the Incas, arid by consequence 
 to re-glorify the Spaniards who conquered them.'' 
 After the nineteenth chapter, in which it is 
 
 and Ireland," July and October, 1872, p. 190. On tlie Arti- 
 ficial Enlargement of the Ear-Lobe. By J. Park Harrison, M.A. 
 ' Prescott says, " His commentaries are open to a grave 
 
140 TWO TEAKS IN PERU. [CHAP. VIII. 
 
 denied that, according to some false rumours, the 
 war lasted here for several years instead of months, 
 we are brought back to Cuzco to witness the prin- 
 cipal festival of the Sun, and the preparations 
 made for it. But this chapter terminates with 
 an account of how Capac Yupunqui, the general, 
 and brother of Pachacutec, sent once more for 
 another army, that he wanted to punish some 
 of these Yuncas, who were not only disobedient, 
 but actually rebelled against the new laws, and 
 customs introduced by the Incas. Thence it was 
 supposed that their dereliction of common sense 
 must have arisen from these people being accus- 
 tomed to commit unnatural crimes, such as caused 
 the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah in the 
 days of old. For this there was only one cure, 
 namely, that " el suave govierno de los Incas " 
 
 objection, and one naturally suggested by his position. Ad- 
 dressing himself to the cultivated European, he was most desiroais 
 to display the ancient glories of his people, and stUl more of 
 the Inca race, in their most imposing form. This, doubtless, 
 was the great spur to his literary labours, for which previous 
 education — ^however good for the evil time on which he was 
 cast — had far from qualified him. Gareilasso, tlierefore, wrote 
 to effect a particular object. He stood forth as counsel for his 
 unfortunate countrymen, pleading the cause of that degraded 
 race before the tribunal of posteritj'." (" History of the Con- 
 quest of Peru," p. 129.) Although there are few writei-s for 
 whom I have a deeper respect than for the illustrious historian of 
 Mexico and Peru, I believe him to be too lenient in his judgment 
 here. Garcilasso might have effected the glorification of his own 
 race without trying so earnestly to disparage, as he does, every- 
 thing done by their predecessors on tlie coast. 
 
CHAP. VIII.] BUENING THE TUNCAS ALIVE. 141 
 
 (the mild government of the Incas), as Grarcilasso 
 styles it, " should make prisoners of all those who 
 were known to have rebelled/ and in one day burn 
 them ahve, — have their houses knocked down, — 
 their crops scattered about, — ^their trees torn up 
 by the roots, — so that no memory should remain 
 of anything they had planted with their hands. 
 The women and children were burnt for the 
 sins of their fathers, without anything of humanity 
 being considered as involved in it, because they 
 had been guilty of a vice which the Incas detested 
 with the most fervent earnestness." 
 
 Then we have eight chapters devoted to an 
 account of the religious ceremonies to the Sun at 
 the capital, as well as of military and civil disci- 
 pline. These devotions to the Sun included the 
 sacrifice of goats, sheep, and cows, — because they 
 were his property. The details are too minute to 
 transcribe. So after all this worship the General 
 Capac Yupanqui went back again to carry his in- 
 vasion farther north. In his previous visit he had 
 only destroyed the Chinchas of the Canete vaUey, 
 whereas he comes now with ministers, arms of 
 war and ammunition (it is a pity we are not told 
 of what kind they were), commissary stores, 
 and everything necessary to invade the beautiful 
 valley of Runahuanac, governed over, as already 
 mentioned, by Chuqui-Mancu, the lord of four 
 valleys. The disputed philology of the word 
 ' Op. cit. chap. xix. p. 195. 
 
142 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [cHAP. VIII. 
 
 Runahuanac occupies more space than I care 
 to devote to it. It appears, however, to be 
 not only the name of the valley, but of a 
 river, in crossing which many of the invaders were 
 drowned. In these times the valley was densely 
 populated, as may be seen by any one who wanders 
 through it in the present day. On the first 
 attempt at crossing of the. river, the King Ohuqui- 
 Mancu came to meet the invaders, and several 
 bloody battles took place. The Yunca king, not 
 being up to the strategy of war, made battle 
 in the valley of Huarcu (now Canete) instead 
 of Runahuanac, and was therefore defeated. It 
 took only one month to do this, according to Gar- 
 cilasso de la Vega, but Seiior Larrabure y Unanue 
 says it cost the Inca eight months' fighting, with 
 an army, as I have before stated, four times 
 renewed, and requiring one hundred and fifty 
 thousand men. Others say the war lasted four 
 years — a period, probably, much more likely than 
 either of the previous. 
 
 But hunger soon made the people importune 
 Chuqui-Mancu to give up ; for, although it is not 
 stated so, we may suppose it natural that the Incas 
 chief did here as he did elsewhere, namely, tear up 
 the crops, and destroy the watercourses. The Incas 
 people had begun to threaten the Yuncas that they 
 would soon hand them over to their old enemies, 
 the neighbouring Chinchas, or, we may suppose, as 
 many of them as were left after the general burning 
 mentioned in the previous page. But the subjects 
 
CHAP. VIII.] WOB.N OUT BY HUNGEE. 143 
 
 of Chuqui-Mancu, having their patience worn out by 
 the length of the ^iege, with its accompaniments of 
 thirst and hunger, came out in a multitude to the 
 Inca, and, "going down on their knees, asked 
 mercy and pardon for their faults, adding that they 
 rejoiced to become vassals of the Inca, since the Sun 
 his father, sent him to conquer the whole world." 
 
 The Inca's uncle and nephew received them with 
 much meekness, made them presents of clothes and 
 other things, sending them all back contented to 
 their homes. To this succeeded the surrender of 
 the other three provinces ; and then, all the people, 
 not conscious of the good that was brought to 
 them by the children of the Sun, boasted that the 
 Incas took four years to subdue them — that they 
 conquered them by hunger and not with iron. 
 Moreover, they said a great many things about 
 their own deeds and their bravery, " besides several 
 other items of talk which we don't care to men- 
 tion," says Garcilasso, " because it does not affect 
 history." Yery true and trite indeed. 
 
 As a trophy of this victory, he continues, the 
 Incas built, in the valley of Huarcu, a fortress, 
 small in compass, but grand in proportions, and of 
 wonderful workmanship. The sea beat on it, and 
 injured it ; and " it was left for many centuries 
 (muchos siglos) without repair,' which was the 
 cause of its being so destroyed when I passed 
 there in 1560." 
 
 » Op. cit. p. 209. 
 
144 TWO YEAES IN PBKU. [cHAP. VIII. 
 
 Garcilasso seems to forget it was less tlian 
 two centuries previous to the coming of the 
 Spaniards that these valleys were conquered by 
 the Incas ; and that, therefore, if the fortress in 
 question had evidence of " some centuries " of 
 decay, it was out of the question that it could 
 ever have been built by the Incas. Yet this I 
 believe to be the one of which Mr. Markham 
 
 
 ^ > *f if ."isrU <• iiiiBi 
 
 
 PEBUVIAN PBEHISTOKIC POTTERY -WAEE. 
 
 writes, " The best preserved Inca edifice of which 
 I took measurements is at Hervay." ■ 
 
 Previous to my departure from Lima, I got 
 from Mr. Richardson a copy of some prehistoric 
 crockery- ware, which, on showing to an archjeo- 
 logical fi'iend of mine there, were said by him as 
 
 ' "Journal of the Eoyal Geographical Societj-," vol. xli.. 
 p. 323. Loudon, 1871. 
 
CHAP. VIII.] SUGAE PLANTATIONS. 145 
 
 known to have been taken out of burying-grounds 
 in some part of the Chincha valley. If such be 
 the case, and that the Yuncas in this part, or their 
 predecessors, were the artificers of these beautiful 
 things, they can hardly be considered as the 
 savages, which many parts of Garcilasso's book 
 would lead us to believe. 
 
 In several portions of the Oanete valley we see 
 groves of olives, which were brought out some 
 years ago, by Senor Don Francisco Carabantes, 
 from Seville. In the valley are also vines, the 
 original of which were introduced from the 
 Canary Islands, by Don Antonio Rivera. There 
 is a copper-mine in this province, in the district 
 of Ooayllo, but it has been abandoned. 
 
 All through Cafiete are about twelve to fifteen 
 sugar-cane estabUshments for the manufacture of 
 sugar and rum. Of these Senor Laraburre y 
 Unanue writes : ^ — 
 
 " In all these plantations there are some dif- 
 ferences which are worthy of being noted. That 
 of Unanue attracts attention by its splendid 
 Gothic palace, without a rival in South America 
 (if we are to believe some travellers), and by its 
 railroad, that places in communication the most 
 remote parts of the farm, as well as facilitates the 
 transport of the sugar-canes. The manufactory of 
 Montalban (O'Higgins) is famous for its sugar- 
 refining, according to the best systems practised 
 " " Correo del Peril," vol. i. No. x. p. 77. 
 VOL. I. L 
 
146 TWO YEABS IN PERU. [cHAP. VTII. 
 
 in Europe. That of Aroma (Don Pedro Paz Sol- 
 dan's) for the beauty and picturesqueness of its 
 hillocks. Whilst Hualcara (Ramos's) is well 
 known for the excellence of all its products. 
 The same can be said of Santa Barbara (formerly 
 belonging to Mr. Carillos, and now owned by 
 Mr. Swayne). But those of the Huaca, Casa 
 Blanca, (White House) and La Quebrada, (the 
 ravine) of Mr. Swayne, surpass all the rest, not 
 only by their discipline, but by their steam-engine 
 works, that are the most perfect in the valley. 
 They likewise realize the largest amount of 
 products." 
 
 To meet the trade daily increasing in Peru, 
 vessels of the Pacific Steam Navigation Com- 
 pany — one of the best managed, and there- 
 fore one of the most successful, companies in 
 the world— ply twice a week from Callao to 
 Cerro Azul, the port of Canete, and vice versa. 
 In case of a considerable shipment required, the 
 large steamers of the Straits line will touch here. 
 
 From Cerro Azul to CaUao is a distance of 
 less than eighty miles by sea ; and Cerro Azul is 
 the southern boundary of the Callao jurisdiction. 
 I prefer, however, asking my readers to accompany 
 me on a visit to Pacha-Camac, which may be seen, 
 by the map, to lie between this and Lima. For 
 we can go the voyage at any time by sea. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Inca progress to PaoharCamac and Eimac. — ^Account of it 
 by Grarcilasso de la Vega. — Cuys Mancu, or Hatun Apu, Lord 
 of Paclia-Camac and valleys adjacent.- — Temples of Pacha- 
 Cama, and Delphic Oracle of the Eimac. — ^Message sent to 
 Cuys Mancu. — MachiaveUianism of the Incas. — Craft of 
 Cupa Tupanqui. — Treaty of the Ihcas with the Yunca Chiefs. 
 — Conditions of same. — Unconditional surrender of Cuys 
 Mancu.. — The Devil coming to have a finger in the pie. — 
 Author's ■ visit to Pacha-Camac. — Cyclopean work. — Mr. 
 Steer's tracking.- — Evidence of niches for idols as of sacrificial 
 fires in supposed Temple of the Sun. — Skulls with sutures 
 in the frontal hones. — General conglomeration of ruins. — Un- 
 satisfactory results. — ^What Stevenson says of Paeha-Camac. 
 — Wonderful messengers. — Dr. A. Smith's opinion. 
 
 The King, Cliuqui Mancu, having been subdued, 
 according to Garcilasso, as well as orders given to 
 him that the government, laws, and customs of the 
 Incas should be introduced to his people, the con- 
 querors passed on from Huarcu (or Canete) to 
 annex the valleys of Pacha-Camac, Eimac, Chan- 
 cay, and Huaman. This last-named place may be 
 observed on the map as Huatu-a, near to Supe — 
 a little farther northward. - The Spaniards after- 
 wards gave to it the title of Barrancas, or the banks. 
 All these were governed over by a powerful chief, 
 named Cuys Mancu, who did not presume to call 
 
 L 2 
 
148 TWO YEARS IN PEKU. [cHAP. IX. 
 
 himself king, for there was no such -VN'ord amongst 
 the Indians, but whose official rank was expressed 
 by the title of llatun Apu — that is. Great Lord. 
 A glance at the map will show my readers what 
 an extensive territory these valleys included. 
 The names mentioned cannot give half an idea 
 of its greatness. For in it are included the 
 valley of Lurin, near to Pacha- Camac — the large 
 and formerly densely-populated valley of Huatica 
 in the triangle, formed by Chorillos, Lima, and 
 Callao, and bounded on the west by the Pacific 
 Ocean, — ^the valleys of Ancon and of Pasamayo, 
 which have burying-grounds in them with thou- 
 sands and thousands of bodies, — the valleys of 
 Chancay and Huacho, with all the signs of an 
 enormous population intervening. 
 
 Before getting to Pacha-Camac, Garcilasso tells 
 us that the Incas, with the natural brightness 
 which God gave them, had first started the idea 
 of Pacha-Camac, which signified a great being — 
 the maker and sustainer of the universe. This 
 faith was spread throughout all territories both 
 before and after their conquests. It was because 
 this spirit was invisible that they made neither 
 temples nor sacrifices to him as they did to the 
 Sun; but they adored him interiorly in their hearts, 
 with great expressions- of demonstrative devotion 
 of head, eyes, arms, and body, when the name 
 was pronounced. This doctrine having been 
 spread about with the fame of the Incas, it had 
 
CHAP. IX.] HUMAJSr SACRIFICES BY THE INCAS. 149 
 
 been adopted by the predecessors of Cujs Mancu, 
 who built a temple at Pacha-Oamac, and gave the 
 same name to the valley in which they founded 
 it — which in these times was one of the most 
 famous on the coast. In the temple the Yuncas 
 had their idols, — figures of fishes, as well as of 
 the female fox.' 
 
 The temple of Pacha- Camac was one of the 
 most solemn edifices of the kind in Peru. Here 
 the Yuncas made sacrifices, not only of animals, 
 but of men, women, and children. 
 
 In such things I may interpose they did no more 
 than their conquerors. For Polo de Ondegardo, 
 the first writer who mentions the Incas, speaking 
 of their sacrificial doings at Cuzco-, says, " On 
 these occasions they killed the girls, and it was 
 necessary they should be virgins, besides offering 
 them up at special seasons, such as for the health 
 of the Inca — for his success in war — ^for a total 
 eclipse of the sun — on earthquakes, and on many 
 other occasions suggested by the devil." ^ 
 
 Besides the temple of Pacha-Camac there was 
 another in the valley of Rimac, four leagues farther 
 north than the former.' The term Rimac signifies 
 
 ' Op. cit. c. XXX. p. 208. 
 
 '' Vide Mr. ]\Iarkham.'s translations of "Eites and Laws of 
 the Incas." Op. cit. p. 161. 
 
 ^ In "Peruvian Antiquities," \)j Mariano Eduardo Eivero, 
 p. 108, I find tlie foUowing note : — " Tradition relates that the 
 celebrated temple of the idol Eimac, in the valley of Huatica, 
 was continuous to Limatambo ; and that the destroyed town has 
 
J 60 TWO YEARS IN PEEU. [CHAP. IX. 
 
 one that speaks. The Deity, therefore, was the 
 Delphic oracle of this part of Peru. Some of 
 the Spanish historians confounded the temple of 
 Rimac wdth that of Pacha-Camac ; but, it appears, 
 they were entirely diiferent. 
 
 A similar message to that formerly sent to the 
 Chinchas was now forwarded to Cuys Mancu — 
 namely, that Pachacutec had come to show him and 
 his people the true i-eligion of the Sun — that they 
 should give up their idols and conform to the Inca's 
 government, laws, and manners — and that he pro- 
 posed in the first place a peaceable surrender, as he 
 purposed to enforce his religion whether they liked 
 or not. To which the great Cuys Mancu, having 
 called all his nobles, ministers, and soldiers about 
 him, sent a reply — that his vassals had no need of 
 another master — that they had no want of other 
 laws than their own — and that they did not require 
 knowledge of any gods than those they had — that 
 they adored their Pacha-Camac, the creator of the 
 universe, — that they Hkewise worshipped Eimac, 
 who spoke to them, and gave them answers 
 when they consulted him. They also venerated 
 the she-fox for its caution and astuteness, and 
 the sea, because it gave them so much fish. But 
 the Sun they did not care for, as their ground was 
 hot and dry enough; so they begged the Inca 
 
 passed into that of Magdalena." That this is a mere conjecture, 
 without any foundation as regards the site, may be seen here- 
 after. 
 
CHAP. IX.J MACHIAVELLIANISM OF INCAS. 151 
 
 not to molest ttem, as they did not need his 
 Empire. 
 
 Then the Incas came out with their Machia- 
 vellianism — although I beUeve the author of that 
 system was not born in these days. They re- 
 joiced that the Yuncas had such veneration for 
 Pacha- Camac, whom they themselves adored in- 
 teriorly as the highest god. So they proposed 
 not to make war, but to have a general palaver, 
 and invited Guys Mancu to the conference. This 
 •latter had already set out with an army of men 
 to defend his territory, but the General Oupac 
 Yupanqui sent to him a request not to fight till 
 they talked more over their gods, as he wished 
 to tell him that the Incas, besides adoring the Sun, 
 also worshipped Pacha-Camac. Although they 
 did not build temples to him, nor offer sacrifices, 
 because they had not seen him, and did not know 
 what sort of a being he was, interiorly in their 
 hearts they worshipped him, and therefore there 
 was every reason why the Incas and the Yuncas 
 should be brothers, and friends, instead of fighting. 
 Moreover, Pachacutec would guarantee that, for 
 the future, the . Inca kings, besides adoring 
 Pacha-Gamac, and holding him for creator and 
 supporter of the universe, should worship and 
 adore the oracle, Rimac, on condition that the 
 Yuncas would come over amongst the children 
 of the Sun — a god better deserving of adoration 
 than either the earth or the sea, the she-fox or any 
 
152 TWO YEAES IN PEEU. [OHAP. IX. 
 
 animal. He suggested, likewise, that they should 
 obey the Irica,his brother, who was a son of the Sun, 
 and the pattern of everything clement, pious, just, 
 and merciful — that they would do well to consider 
 these things over dispassionately, and come to the 
 peaceful arrangement proposed, instead of offering 
 to resist the power of the Incas, that no force of 
 arms was able to subdue. 
 
 So, after a short truce, peace was concluded on 
 the following conditions: — "That the Yuncas 
 should adore the Sun as the Incas do ; that they . 
 should build for this worship a temple apart 
 {templo aparte), like that of Pacha-Gamac, but 
 no more human blood should be shed, as it was 
 against the law of Nature to kill a man that he 
 should be offered up in sacrifice.* That they must 
 remove their idols from the temple of Pacha-Camac, 
 because he, being the creator and lord of the uni- 
 verse, was only to be adored in their hearts, and 
 not with idols — that for the better ornament and 
 grandeur of the valley of Pacha-Camac, they 
 should found a house of selected virgins,' in com- 
 bination with the Temple of the Sun, in the style 
 which they had it in Cuzco — that the King 
 Guys Mancu should hold his rights, as well as 
 the other Curacas or chiefs, — obeying the Inca as 
 supreme lord, to follow the laws, customs, and 
 
 * See extract from Polo de Ondegardo, at page 149 of tliis 
 chapter. 
 
 • ^ATiich they never did, or of which, at all events, no vestige 
 remains at the present day. 
 
CHAP. IX.J THE DEVIL AT PACHA-CAMAC. 153 
 
 manners of tte latter — tliat tlie Incas should 
 maintain much, esteem and veneration for the 
 oracle Rimac, and send orders to all his kingdoms 
 to observe the same." 
 
 After the conclusion of this treaty, and every- 
 thing was arranged for the Inca executive in the 
 valleys of Pacha-Oamac and Rimac, the next step 
 was for the General Copac Yupanqui and his 
 nephew to return to Guzco, with an account of their 
 mission to the Inca. In this journey they were 
 accompanied by Guys Mancu, in order that the Inca 
 king should know him, and give him thanks with 
 his own hand. Nothing is said of Ohuqui Mancu, 
 who was not so easily brought to terms as the 
 other. But Guys Mancu went ; the great Inca 
 came out from Guzco to receive him, and he was 
 overpowered with feastings and with presents — aU 
 the Incas of the royal blood being bidden to the 
 feasts to do him welcome. These things passed, 
 Guys Mancu was sent back rejoicing, and "per- 
 fectly convinced that the Inca was a true son of 
 the Sun, worthy to be adored and served by the 
 whole world." ^ 
 
 I must confess that it shakes my faith in Gar- 
 cilasso's narrative when I find him continuing — 
 as I am now about to quote- — in the same strain 
 of seriousness with which the previous account 
 was written, and in the very sentence suc- 
 ceeding the last : — " It must be known that as 
 soon as the Devil {El Bemonio) saw that the 
 " Op. cit. c. xxxi. p. 211. 
 
154 TWO TEAES IN PEfiU. [CFAP. IX. 
 
 Incas were about to lord it over the valley of 
 Pacha-Camac, and that his temple stood emptied 
 of the many idols it contained, he put himself 
 up for the particular lord whom the Indians 
 adored," and more bosh to the same effect. In 
 part of Prescott's work on the " History of the 
 Conquest of Peru," we find the Devil spoken 
 of in the same serious manner.' The dreadful 
 battle of Puna was caused by Pizarro " having 
 abandoned his wretched prisoners, ten or twelve 
 in number, to the tender mercies of their rivals of 
 Tumbez, who instantly massacred them before his 
 eyes." Then the people of Puna sprang to arms, 
 and with fearful yells and menaces went in to 
 battle. But Hernando Pizarro conquered them, 
 having put them into a state of panic-strike by his 
 terrible array of steel-clad horsemen, with the 
 stunning reports and flash of fire-arms. "Yet the 
 victory was owing, in some degree, at least if we 
 may credit the conquerors, to the interposition of 
 Heaven ; for St. Michael and his legions were seen 
 high in the aii- above the combatants, contending 
 with the arch-enemy of man, and cheering on the 
 Christians by their example." This story is told 
 with such seriousness, as being translated from 
 Montesinos, I am almost afraid to desecrate its 
 gravity by suggesting that, according to what I 
 have been taught on the subject, the arch-enemy of 
 man, being up in the air, must have been out of his 
 ' " History of the Conquest," chap. i. p. 144. 
 
CHAP. IX.j THE DEVIL IN THE SKIES. 155 
 
 element, or like a fisli out of water; so that we 
 need scarcely wonder at his being conquered. At 
 all events, it is quite clear that the Devil in old 
 times has had his fingers in many pies amongst 
 the Peruvians.* 
 
 It was not until a few weeks previous to my 
 departure from Callao that I was able to visit the 
 ruins of Pacha-Camac. As we are here on the 
 spot with the Incas and Yuncas of old, I deem this 
 an appropriate place for giving my account of it. 
 Premising that I am indebted to Mr. WiUiam 
 Sterling, managing director of the Lima and 
 OaUao Railway, for having kindly supplied me 
 with horses for my party and self. These con- 
 sisted of Lord Cochrane; Mr. J. B. Steer, a 
 celebrated North American explorer, from the 
 University of Michigan ; Mr. John Schumaker, of 
 Valparaiso ; Mr. "Woodsend, of the London Bank 
 of Mexico and South America, at Lima ; and Mr. 
 George Wilson, the son of our Vice-Consul at 
 Oallao. We started from Lima for OhoriUos by the 
 first train, at 8 a.m., taking with us some commis- 
 
 ° Cieza de Leon devotes considerable space to the pranks of the 
 Devil in Peru. In chap. xlLx. and after, much is left out by Mr. 
 Markham as " unfit for translation " — I should suppose from its 
 indecency. He saj's (page 182), " In aU parts where the holy 
 Evangel is preached, a cross is placed, at ■which the DevU is 
 terrified, and flies away." Chapter cxviii. is devoted to accounts 
 of a Chief, who, when he wished to be converted, " saw the 
 Devils visibly." As he sometimes " saw them when he was 
 sitting with a glass of liquor before him" (p. 416), perhaps their 
 colour was blue. 
 
156 TWO XEAES IN PERU. [OHAP. IX. 
 
 sariat necessaries, and a few large sacks to bring 
 anything back, that might be worth appropriating. 
 
 At Chorillos we met the horses sent down for us 
 by Mr. Sterhng — three mules with provender and 
 sacks having gone ahead on the previous day. 
 Here, too, we were received by Senor Don Vicente 
 Silva, Colonel and Commissary of the National 
 Guard, and Prefect of Lurin, to whose hacienda 
 at San Pedro, two miles fi-om Pacha-Camac, we 
 were invited on" the day before, and from whom 
 we received the most courteous attention during 
 our night's stoppage at his house. 
 
 The road going eastward from ChorUlos passes, 
 at the distance of a few hundred yards outside of 
 the town, one of those grand old forts, with high 
 walls, bastions, embrasures, and a wonderful work 
 of architecture, that are so plentiful over Peru. I 
 expressed to Mr. Schumaker my desire to have a 
 sketch of it, but unfortunately time did not per- 
 mit him to do more than the five excellent draw- 
 ings of what we saw at Pacha-Camac, and which 
 accompany this chapter. 
 
 Our ride, after passing by the hacienda of Yilla,' 
 only half a league distant from Chorillos, was 
 along the sea-shore. This style of journey occu- 
 pied more than half the way. "\Ye started from 
 
 " The old fortress aud tlie hacienda iii this place are the pro- 
 perty of one of the Goj-anaclies — family of the late Archbishop 
 of Lima, who is said to have died worth t^^enty-five millions of 
 dollars. 
 
iiillyiilliiililiiililiiiiilial 
 
OHAP. IX. J CYCLOPEAN WHINS. 157 
 
 Chorillos (after breakfasting at the Hotel San 
 Pedro) at ten o'clock, and reached the ruins of 
 Pacha-Camac at about two p.m. 
 
 Whilst Senor Don Vicente Silva proceeded to 
 his house to make preparations for our break- 
 fast, we commenced our explorations. The im- 
 mense size of the debris, — of huacas, temples, city, 
 and burying-grounds, at once convinced me that 
 nothing more than a cursory inspection could be 
 taken. A Cycoplean mass of earthwork is before 
 us as we enter on the sacred place of these ruins. 
 This is more than two to three hundred feet high; 
 and forms a semi-lunar shape, that is beyond half 
 a mile in extent, stretching with its concave side 
 to the south. "We mounted to the top by a 
 roundabout passage on horseback; but here the 
 place was such a confused mass of wreck, that 
 a measurement was impossible unless we could 
 stop a week at it. The first glance showed what 
 Dr. Archibald Smith, writing of it, describes ^ 
 " like the temple of Cholula on the plains of 
 Mexico ; — a sort of made mountain or vast 
 terraced pyramid of earth." 
 
 Mr. Steer commenced by tracking the topmost 
 terrace. One ledge he found 248 paces, or yards, in 
 length, whilst some of the lower ones were only ISO. 
 The height between four of these terraces is from 
 six to eight feet each; but there was so much 
 
 • "Peru as it is.'' By Archibald Smith, M.D. London, 
 Eichard Bentley, 1839. Two volumes. Vol. ii, p. 306. 
 
158 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAr. TX. 
 
 disintegration of stone walls about, and such, a 
 quantity of eartli mixed up witli them, that the 
 measurements were very difficult to be defined. I 
 did not ask him to attempt any further, when he 
 told me, after half an hour's pacing and calculation, 
 tliat the top measured ten acres square, and this 
 at a height of nearly 300 feet from the base. 
 
 On the western side, and about twelve feet 
 beneath, the highest part, is a row of arched 
 recesses, or alcoves, high enough to admit a man 
 of ordinary stature to stand upright in any of 
 them. From each end of these, but on the 
 terrace above, are the remains of a large wall, 
 about three feet thick, and stretching backwards 
 to the east. The wall facing north is built of 
 stones outside and of adobe, or sun-dried brick 
 inside, whilst that fronting the south has adobes 
 in its fore-part, and stones within. One can 
 scarcely imagine these recesses could have been 
 used in worship of the Sun, from the simple 
 reason of their facing towards the setting of that 
 luminary instead of its rising. Unless, indeed, we 
 were to allow the faculty mentioned by the poet 
 Moore of — • 
 
 " The sunflower turns to its God when he sets, 
 The same look that it turn'd when he rose." 
 
 Much of these walls are washed over with a 
 red paint, and in three or fom- places are 
 square niches, apparently of the same shape 
 and size as we see in the ruins of Pao-au 
 
OHAP. IX.] GRECIAN SCEOLLS AT PACHA-CAMAO. 159 
 
 temples on the lowlands. Of this colouring — 
 done probably with ochre — Dr. Smith likewise 
 remarks, that, although executed many centuries 
 ago, it is as inviolate and fresh on the mud 
 plaster, as if it were the work of yesterday. 
 He further adds, "By-the-bye, it may not be 
 impertinent to mention, that, among these paint- 
 ings, we find what is called the Grecian scroll, 
 which, if I am not mistaken, the Grecians bor- 
 rowed from the Egyptians. This may serve to 
 throw some light upon the origin of Pacha^Camac. 
 Like that of Mexico, — nay, with still more 
 emphatic gesture, — the gigantic architecture of 
 Peru points to the Cyclopean family, the founders 
 of the temple of Babel, and of the Egyptian 
 pyramids. I believe that the temple of Pacha- 
 
 
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 fc_ 
 
 
 
 KUIXS OF IIKPUTED TEMPLE Of THE SUN AT fACHA-CAV AC. 
 
160 
 
 TWO TEARS IK PEEU. 
 
 [chap. IX. 
 
 Camac was standing when that part of the coast 
 was conquered by the Incas, so that there is no 
 knowing its age." ^ 
 
 From one side, going towards the north, is 
 the rehc of a wall, which is covered with soot — 
 possibly the remnant of fires to make sacrifices 
 — and nothing can better illustrate the conser- 
 vative tendency of the Peruvian climate than 
 the fresh appearance of this soot. Two questions 
 at once suggest themselves whilst I am resting 
 here : If this were a Temple of the Sun, built as it is 
 on the top of a large huaca or burial-ground — for 
 
 ARTICLES TAKEN FKOII GRATES IN THE EUETING-GKOUND AT PACHA-CAJIAO.-' 
 
 right under where I am seated — though a few 
 hundred feet below — Mr. Steer and Mr. George 
 
 - Op. cit. p. 306. 
 
 ^ 1, Copper chisel; 2, flute of sheep shank ; 3, smoking pipe 
 of deer's horn ; 4, copper implement ; 5, terracotta figure ; 6, 
 wooden bowl ; 7 and 8, griading-stones with grinders. 
 
CHAP. IX.] DISINTBEJIING BODIES. 
 
 161 
 
 Wilson, accompanied by four Chinamen, are, with 
 pick-axe and spade, disinterring bodies — why 
 should we find niches for heathen deities and evi- 
 dences of sacrificial fires ? Or whose hands carried 
 up the enormous quantities of earth, that fill every 
 space, and allow no definition of rooms, halls, or 
 indeed of anything but the clay itself, and the walls 
 cropping up from amongst them ? 
 
 On the uppermost terrace I saw two sticks 
 stretching sideways out of the clay, and, having 
 the place opened, found three bodies inside, with 
 the same style of swathing as those taken down 
 lower — the only difference being that the grave 
 was lined with stone. Some of the old Yunca 
 people I should suppose buried here in the Temple 
 of the Sun by the Incas — ^if I am to believe 
 
 VIEW (facikg east) of euiks at pacha -camac. 
 VOL. I. M 
 
162 TWO XEARS IN PEEU. [CHAP. IX. 
 
 that tke Temple of the Sun was built on the 
 top of a Yunca huaca, and afterwards filled with 
 clay. On the centre plateau, descending about 
 seventy feet, I observed some graves opened, which 
 were lined with sun-dried adobes ; but in the lower 
 ground, where Mr. Steer and Mr. George Wilson 
 have dug, and are still taking out relics, they are 
 buried very thickly together, and simply in the 
 clay. It was from these that we got several 
 bodies, so very old that, on opening the wrappings 
 in which they were enveloped, they aU feU to 
 pieces. I managed, however, to get together a few 
 score of skuUs for the Anthropological Museum. 
 "We hkewJse obtained no inconsiderable number 
 of curiosities. Amongst them were the matters 
 designed on the accompanying engraving, to- 
 gether with a lot of rude figures of wooden faces. 
 Some of these were stuck in the cloth encircling 
 the head, and not a few of the heads had bags of 
 coca-leaves fastened on the top. Several of the 
 female bodies had with them the toilette of " a 
 lady' of the period," consisting of a very small 
 apron of about ten inches in width, and four inches 
 deepi with strings attached for fastening them 
 round the loins.* All of these human remains 
 were roUed round with cloth, and encircled with 
 rope in the same style as those we got at 
 Chosica — hereafter described. The eye-sockets of 
 
 ' Garcilasso de la "Vega speaks of these as the dress of maiTied 
 kdies. Mr. Markham's translation, vol i. chap. xiii. p. 57. 
 
CHAP. IX.] 
 
 FRONTAL FISSUEES. 
 
 163 
 
 many were stuffed with masses of cotton flock, and 
 some of the men had slings enclosed in their 
 wrappings. In the skulls I brought with me 
 were two with holes, evidently caused by the 
 stroke of stones flung from slings, and two others 
 having frontal fissures like those I had previously 
 obtained at the burial-place of Pasamayo, about 
 ten miles north of Ancon, on the Lima and 
 Huacho railway. 
 
 Accompanied by Mr. Schumaker, I rode over to 
 a distance of about a quarter of a mile, northward 
 from the great mound, to where was a very interest- 
 ing ruin of a square building. It might have been 
 a place for worship of some kind, for although 
 the edifice was only about twenty yards each 
 side, the inner rooms were full of square niches. 
 
 VIEW (facing west) Oi' l'llEV10lJSLl'-ilEMIO>"EIJ ACCUECITEU TEill'LE AT 
 I'ACHA-CAMAC. 
 
 M 2 
 
164 TWO TEAES IN PBBCT. [CHAP. IX. 
 
 The walls of this were about two yards in 
 thickness, made of Adobones, although on a stone 
 foundation. Several of these niches had bevelled 
 cornices of perpendicular direction, and one or 
 two of them were rounded at top. On the opposite 
 side of this was an arched vault, which in the 
 original state, and judging from the level of the 
 circumjacent ground, was from eight to ten feet in 
 height. Even still it is beyond five feet, reaching 
 up to my chin as I stand before it. In three 
 of the niches alongside of this are horizontal inden- 
 tations of about six to eight inches wider than the 
 niches themselves ; and these have on them marks 
 of cord pressure into the adobe when fresh, — sug- 
 gesting that from them himg down pieces of cloth, 
 fastened in by wood, to hide the faces of their 
 deities from the vulgar gaze. From this, towards 
 the west, ran out two strong abobe walls, each two 
 and a half yards in thickness, which apparently 
 constituted part of the enclosure of the temple in 
 the days of its integrity. The basement of these 
 walls is built with large masses of stone, fitted 
 into one another with perfect art, without any 
 mortar or cement. 
 
 Besides the similarity of the frontal suture to 
 some of those skulls I had dug up at Pasamayo, as 
 already mentioned, many obtained here had bits of 
 copper in the mouth, like several of those last named. 
 AU through the ruins of the town, inside the walls 
 of what once seemed houses, as well in lara-e 
 
CHAP IX. J SIMILABITT OF SKULLS. 165 
 
 squares, skulls were everywhere lying about, to- 
 gether with the different bones that belonged to 
 them. Thus extensive excavations had been made 
 here by the treasure-hunters. Many small bits of 
 crockery-ware were scattered amongst the ruins, 
 and I saw two very large vases, each capable of 
 holding from twenty to thirty gallons. But 
 their enormous size prevented my bringing off 
 either of them. They were from four to five 
 feet in height, and of proportionate rotundity. 
 Neither of them, however, were perfect, as each 
 had been broken, to a certain extent, from the 
 manner in which they had been tossed about as 
 useless, by men who came here only to seek silver 
 and gold. 
 
 Whilst I was with Mr. Schumaker during his 
 sketching of the last small temple, Lord Cochrane 
 rode over to the ruins of some old walls, which 
 stood about three quarters of a mile distant in the 
 direction of Lima. On his return, he told me they 
 stretched away from east to west, or from the sea 
 inland to a length that he could not attempt to 
 calculate. I therefore concluded that these were 
 some of the boundary walls of the old city. 
 
 From the topmost part of the mound, and 
 looking seaward, we can observe the Pacha- 
 Camac group of islets, ten in number, that 
 seem like so many volcanic boulders, either 
 dropped into the sea, or pushed up out of it. The 
 largest and most northern has the shape of a 
 
166 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. IX. 
 
 sugar-loaf, and is remarkable by being covered 
 with a wliitisli something that may be guano of 
 bird or seal, or might be a soda efflorescence. 
 
 In his notice of Pacha-Camac, Stevenson* like- 
 wise goes in the Garcilasso de la Yega track. " In 
 September, 1633," he says, "Don Francisco 
 Pizarro arrived at Pacha-Camac, a large town 
 belonging to the Indians, where a magnificent 
 temple had been built by Pachacutec, the tenth 
 Inca of Peru, for the worship of Pacha-Camac, the 
 creator and preserver of the world. This rich 
 place of worship was plundered by Pizarro, and 
 the virgins destined to the service of the Deity, 
 though in every respect as sacred as the nuns of 
 Pizarro's religion, were violated by his soldiers. 
 The altars were pillaged and destroyed, and the 
 building was demolished. However, when I 
 visited it in 1817, some of the walls still remained, 
 aS^if to reproach the descendants of an inhuman 
 monster with his wonted barbarity." Then 
 wandering amongst the remains of this temple, 
 Stevenson enters into a strain of moralizinof about 
 the impiety of Pizarro's work in destroying " an 
 edifice destined by its founder to be a monument 
 of national glory, or even personal honour ;" and 
 more of the same kind, of what is scarcely removed 
 from rant. He goes on about " the remains of a 
 building once sacred to a large portion of our 
 fellow-creatures, and raised by them in honour to 
 ° Op. cit. vol. i. p. 144. 
 
CHAP. IX.J THE BUILDERS OP PAOHA-CAMAC. 167 
 
 the Great Fatter of the universe, wantonly de- 
 stroyed by a being, in whose hands chance had 
 placed more power than his vitiated mind knew 
 how to apply to virtuous purposes," — concluding 
 with the climax of^ — " we cannot avoid cursing 
 him in the bitterness of our anguish." 
 
 I can scarcely consider the term " rant " as too 
 severe applied to such sentiments. Because, even 
 independent of the uselessness of cursing Pizarro, 
 it might be a matter of justice to inquire whether he 
 is the party who ought to receive the malediction. 
 For Mr. Stevenson. seems to me rather rapidly 
 coming to a conclusion, that the founder of this 
 edifice was Pachacutec, instead of inquiring into 
 the possibilities of its having been made a ruin of 
 by that Inca's brother and son, who were the 
 invading parties here, or perhaps by the original 
 founders of it — possibly the Tuncas — to prevent 
 its being turned to use by invaders. All the 
 revelations of ancient historians about this place 
 incline me to the belief that Pizarro found it in 
 1533 as it was in 1817 when Stevenson visited it, 
 and as it stood in the month of April last, 1873, 
 when Lord Cochrane, myself, and our party were 
 on the top of it. If it were not so, how account 
 for its being now filled up with clay ? We have 
 no relation of any fighting, as a feature of the 
 " conquest," having been at Pacha-Camac, or in 
 the neighbourhood. We find no record of by 
 whom, or wherefrom, were brought the hundi'eds of 
 
168 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. IX. 
 
 thousands of tons of clay that fill up those rooms, 
 or altar-places. In fact, we see but one large 
 building on the top of this immense mound or 
 huaca, and there exists no indication as to where 
 the house of the nuns stood. Was it inside the 
 walls of the temple, or in the town ? Until these 
 points be settled, I cannot help looking on the 
 whole of the story of the plunder of this place by 
 Pizarro, and the A-iolation of the nuns by his 
 soldiers, as a piece of braggadocio, founded on 
 imposture. The ancient Peruvians, whose history 
 was wiped out by the Incas, were, most probably 
 the builders of Pacha-Camac. And if such a thing 
 be proved, as probably it may be, by further 
 investigations amongrst the mounds, it will reveal 
 another illustration of how the mighty spirit of 
 truth seems advancing, before all things, to be 
 the great triumph of the nineteenth century — the 
 triumph of our humanity, and our civilization. 
 
 On our way to Don Vicente Silva's house we 
 crossed a pretty suspension bridge over the river 
 Lurin, and along a road, as wide as any highway 
 in England, perfectly level, and shaded on each 
 side with trees. The village of Lurin has 
 nothing remarkable except that its houses, in 
 anticipation, no doubt, of earthquake contin- 
 gencies, are built of reed and mud — called Kinshin.^ 
 
 " This resembles ■what in T\^est Africa is styled the " wattle 
 and dab '' — a framework of bamboo stems over which clay 
 mortar is slapped on. 
 
CHAP. rx.J THE MISSING TBEASUBE. 169 
 
 It has a most melanclioly-looking little plaza 
 or square, over which towers a spacious chapel, 
 with a huge dome — a house of worship appa- 
 rently large enough to hold the populations of 
 two or three towns of the same size. In the valley 
 of Lurin, or as it was formerly styled Pacha- 
 Camac, there are seven sugar-cane plantations, 
 besides that of Senor Silva ; and wherever we go 
 John Chinaman is prevailing. Here, as in many 
 other places in Peru, there is a legend that at a 
 place called Chimeroo, not more than ten leagues 
 distant, the gold is concealed, which was being 
 sent from Cuzco to Cajamarca for the release ' of 
 Atahualpa, and that the Indians, who were the 
 bearers thereof, either scattered about, or hid, it 
 as soon as they heard of their monarch being 
 murdered. It was a pretty tidy sum — eleven 
 thousand llamas, each carrying a hundred 
 pounds in weight of gold, — or eleven hundred 
 thousand pounds of the precious metal, as we 
 are told by Rivero, Tschudi, Prescott, and many 
 others.' 
 
 I rode back to Lima in company with Lord 
 Cochrane and Mr. George "Wilson, together with 
 our arriero ; the last-named having charge of two 
 mules, that carried more than Mtj skulls, with 
 other items of our excavations, on theu- backs. 
 
 ' InTo less tlian half a dozen different places in Peru are 
 accredited with the storage of this strayed money — Casma and 
 Yupaiiqui amongst them. 
 
170 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. IX. 
 
 It is impossible to conceive anything more 
 dreary and desolate than this road — through soft 
 sand half-wny up to the horses' knees, and with a 
 line of rocky hills three to four hundred feet high 
 on either side of us. Not a drop of water to be 
 seen anywhere — no well, rivulet, or azequia, till we 
 came within six or eight miles of Lima, where we 
 passed Over one of the streams from the Rimac 
 river, that debouches above Lima to water the 
 valley of Huatica. The distance from Lima to 
 Pacha-Camac is calculated to be only eight leagues, 
 and from ChorQlos five. But I think a couple of 
 leagues might be tacked on to the first named, 
 without much fear of exaggeration. 
 
 Writing of the Chasquis, or messengers of Peru 
 in the time of the Incas, we are told by Stevenson' 
 that the Incas had relays of messengers on all the 
 principal roads, who relieved one another in carry- 
 ing messages from the coast to Cuzco, or vice 
 versa. The distance from Cuzco to Lima Steven- 
 son makes out only a hundred leagues, or three 
 hundred miles ; but I believe it is nearer double 
 that amount. By means of Chasquis, we are asked 
 to beUeve, " the court of the Incas was supplied 
 with fresh fish from the sea near Pacha-Camac, 
 — probably from the Bay of Chilca, — where a 
 village of Indians is still employed in fishing. 
 It is the place to which Pizarro was directed 
 
 ' Op. cit vol. ii. p. 6-5. 
 
OH. IX.J FRESH FISH AT CUZCO. — ALL ALIVE o! 171 
 
 by the Indians, when in search of a good 
 harbour before that of Callao was discovered. 
 The distance from this part of the coast to 
 Ctizco is more than a hundred leagues, yet, so 
 vigilant and active were the Indians, Gar- 
 cilasso afl&rms " that the fish often arrived at Guzco 
 alive." 
 
 After this, surely no statement of Garcilasso can 
 be doubted; unless, perhaps, by some one who 
 might be credulous on the point of the fish not 
 being acclimatized to the rarefied atmosphere on 
 the Andes' summit of 14,000 to 16,000 feet, over 
 which they had to cross in their journey of 
 beyond one hundred leagues. If the modus operandi 
 of this transport were known, I feel confident 
 it would be highly appreciated by Mr. Frank 
 Buckland. 
 
 On the morning after my return from Pacha- 
 Camac, I consulted other works that were in my 
 possession, which had been written by actual 
 visitors to this historic place, for the purpose of 
 seeing how far I could have depended upon them. 
 Opening Rivero's book,^ I found as follows, 
 under what the author styles the particu- 
 lars of the history of Pacha-Camac : — " On the 
 conical elevation, near the bank of the sea, 458 
 
 ° " Peruvian Antiquities.'' By Mariano Edward Eivero, Di- 
 rector of the Xational Museum, Lima, &c. Translated hy T. L. 
 Ha-svks, D.D., LL.D. New York : Putnam and Co., 1853. 
 Page 288. 
 
172 TWO TEARS IN PEECT. [CHAP. IX. 
 
 feet above its level, are found the ruins of the 
 ancient temple of Pacha-Camac. At the foot of 
 this hill are seen at the present day the decayed 
 walls of the edifices, which were intended to 
 receive the strangers who came on pilgrimages 
 from the most distant provinces of the empire to 
 present their offerings to the deity." 
 
 Commenting on Senor Rivero's account, as I pro- 
 ceed, I have here to observe, that at the foot of 
 the hill in question there are no decayed walls of 
 edifices. Moreover the term "hill" is scarcely 
 apphcable to what Dr. Smith styles a " made 
 mountain," and such as I believe it to be.' 
 At a distance of about 200 yards from its base 
 we find ruined walls, supposed to be ruins of the 
 town of Pacha-Camac. But that they were 
 intended to receive strangers, who came irom a 
 distance for the pilgrimage, seems to me an 
 assumption, for which I cannot recognize any 
 proof. In the next paragi-aph Senor Rivero 
 says, " The whole was surrounded by a wall of 
 adobes, nine feet in width, and probably of con- 
 siderable height, for some parts of it are twelve 
 feet in height, although in its average extent it is 
 not more than four or five." Such a wall as is here 
 described only exists at the northern side of the 
 town — running from the sea inland, and separates 
 all the ruins from the desert track to Lima. He 
 
 ' Vide page 157. 
 
CHAP. IX. J RIVEEO ON PACHA-CAMAC. 173 
 
 continues, " The material througliout the whole 
 fabric is not hewn stone, as in the edifices of 
 Cuzco, but adobes, easily crumbled." "What fabric 
 may be meant here ? The " ancient temple of 
 Pacha-Camac ? decayed walls of edifices ? or the 
 wall surrounding the whole ? " — because, although 
 no hewn stones are in either of the two last, the 
 chief component of the structure on top of the hill 
 is fi'om hewn stone; and the quarry whence 
 they may have been taken, as of a like geo- 
 logical formation, is only about half a mile distant, 
 before crossing the iron bridge over the river 
 Lurin. 
 
 Then " the upper part of the highland, or ridge, 
 which is about 100 feet high, is artificially formed by 
 walls — each one thirty-two feet in height, and fi:om 
 seven to eight feet wide. In the most elevated part 
 is seen the temple, with the sanctuary of the deity 
 towards the sea. Its door was of gold, richly 
 inlaid with precious stones and coral; but the 
 interior was obscure and dirty — this being the spot 
 chosen by the priests for their bloody sacrifices 
 before the idol of wood, placed at the bottom of 
 the enclosure, the worship of which succeeded the 
 pure and abstract worship of the invisible Pacha- 
 Camac. At present there remain of this temple 
 some niches only, which, according to the testi- 
 mony of Cieza de Leon, contained representations 
 of several wild beasts; and we have detached 
 frao-ments of paintings of animals made on the 
 
174 TWO YEAES IJST PEEU. [cHAP. IX. 
 
 wall upon the whitewaslied. clay. We can, 
 however, still distinguish the place of the sanc- 
 tuary, according to the description of the early 
 chroniclers." 
 
 The only thing on the high building at the 
 period of my visit which could be taken for a 
 sanctuary of the deity are the niches, of which 
 Mr. Schumaker has taken a sketch. The whole of 
 this mound appears to me artificial. But I could 
 not discover where had been any place for door of 
 precious stones, coral, and gold; because the 
 building, whatever it was in old times, has lost 
 all shape or form, leading to being recognized, by 
 being fiUed up with earth. There is no white- 
 washed clay, unless that can be called so (Hiber- 
 nically) which is of a red colour. I saw no 
 traces that could be indicated as paintings of 
 animals. 
 
 " The opinion is erroneous," he goes on to say, 
 " which deems these ruins to be the Temple of the 
 Sun. It is one, however, which has been adopted 
 by almost all modern authors, although diametri- 
 cally opposed to that of the historians contempo- 
 raneous with the conquest, as well as to the 
 account given by Hernando Pizarro, brother of 
 Francisco, and destroyer of the temple." 
 
 My readers will see by this, we are informed 
 that ths ancient temple of Pacha-Camac was, 
 according to Rivero, not the Temple of the Sun. 
 Yet consulting a work of his fellow-traveller. 
 
CHAP. IX.] TSCHODl ON PACHA-CAMAC. 175 
 
 Dr. Tschudi,^ v/e are told, " Pacha-Camac was 
 the greatest deity of tlie Yuncas, who did not 
 worship the Sun till after their subjugation by the 
 Incas. The temple of Pacha-Camac was then 
 dedicated to the sun by the Incas, who destroyed 
 the idols which the Yuncas had worshipped, and 
 appointed in the service of the temple a certain 
 number of virgins of royal descent. In the year 
 1534 Pizarro invaded the village of Lurin (two 
 miles away from Pacha-Camac) ; his troops de- 
 stroyed the temple, and the Virgins of the Sun 
 were dishonoured and murdered." 
 
 But instead of the old temple of Pacha-Camac 
 being converted into a Temple of the Sun, as 
 Tschudi says, I find again, on returning to Rivero,' 
 " Outside of this edifice (that was the old Pagan 
 temple, with its doors of gold and coral and pre- 
 cious stones) there were in Pacha-Camac a Temple 
 of the Sun, a royal palace, and a house of virgins — 
 monuments erected by the Incas, Pachacutec, and 
 Yupanqui. According to our investigations, the 
 Temple of the Sun extended from the foot of the 
 mountain,* on which was situated the temple of 
 Pacha-Camac, towards the north-east, and on the 
 
 ' " Travels in Peru during the years 1838 and 1842." By Dr. 
 J. J. Yon Tschudi. London : D. Bogue, Fleet Street, 1847. 
 Page 205. 
 
 ' Op. cit. p. 290. 
 
 ^ The " made mountain," he might have said, as I believe it 
 to be the work of human hands. 
 
176 TWO TEAKS IN PEE0. [OHAP. IX. 
 
 side towards the nortli-west, as far as tlie Lake 
 of Sweet Water, and at the foot of the mountain 
 from the south-east of the temple of Pacha- Camac 
 to the house of the chosen virgins." 
 
 Not a vestige of any ruins, save of old walls, 
 of the same character as the rest, existed in 
 the direction indicated when I was there last 
 April. From the chief mound on top of which 
 the ruins of the old building described by me 
 are found, both in a north-east and north-west 
 direction, extend smaller mounds to the distance 
 of half a mile, where they are bounded by the 
 river Lurin. But I must ask a few questions. 
 If the Incas had a Temple of the Sun here when 
 Fizarro came, and that it was a different building 
 from that on the high mound, how does it happen 
 that it has disappeared, whilst the rehcs of the old 
 Pagan temple remain ? If the latter, according 
 to Tschudi, had been converted into a Temple of 
 the Sun, who filled it up with clay, so as that we 
 can now walk on its very summit, with all the 
 walls underneath our feet as we look down ? 
 Not being able to find or invent a reply, I lay 
 aside the works of Senor Don Mariano Edward 
 Eivero and Dr. Tschudi, to ruminate on the old 
 fairy story of " Jack and the Beanstalk," as well 
 as on what Stevenson tells us of some people's 
 belief that Don Quixote was buried at Trujillo. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 Callao Bay. — ^Earl Dundonald and the island of San Lorenzo. — 
 Cutting out of the "Esmeralda." — The concrete works of 
 Mi. Hodges. — Pacific Steam ITavigation Company. — First 
 appearance of steamboat on the Pacific. — Earliest report of 
 Pacific Steam Navigation Company in 1843. — Hardihood of 
 directors. — Present status of the Company. — Organization in 
 Callao. — Programme of saiUngs.— Large trade created by it. — 
 Additional steam lines. — ^Floatiag-dock of Callao. — Original 
 establishment. — Utility to Pacific shipping. — MueUe y Dar- 
 sena (mole and dock) : great ■woik of Brassey and Co. — Callao 
 trade for 1872. — Imports and exports.— Guano ei^isting in 
 deposits. — ^Amount of supply for future. — Ifo fear of Grovem- 
 ment securities. — ISew discoveries of nitrates and of silver- 
 mines. — Immense increase of Custom-house receipts. — ^Port 
 dues. 
 
 Feom CeiTO Azul we have a little over seventy 
 miles of sea voyage, in wliicli, .after passing by 
 Pacha-Camac and Cliorillos, "we enter one of tlie 
 finest bays in the world at Callao. 
 
 This harbour is situated in lat. 12' 8" S. and 
 long. 79° 46' W. The port can be entered (if 
 coming as we are from the south) through the 
 Boqueron channel, which separates the island 
 of San Lorenzo from La Punta (the Point) — a 
 low peninsula composed of the debris of marine 
 shells, and rubble of ordinary paving-stone size, 
 
 VOL. I. N 
 
178 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. X. 
 
 the latter of wMcli is being constantly added to 
 by tlie surging in of the ocean. Another entrance 
 is by going round San Lorenzo to its northern 
 extremity, whereon a lighthouse stands, and straight 
 into the anchorage. San Lorenzo is about four 
 miles in length, and a mile in width. It is a baiTen 
 mass of brownish grey colour, without the sem- 
 blance of vegetation, except, as I am told, some 
 wild potatoes that grow on the top, which is about 
 eleven hundred feet high. 
 
 On entering the Boqueron channel, and looking 
 up the side of the island, one can recognize the 
 figure of a cross, made with what appear large 
 clumps of basalt, or some volcanic-looking boul- 
 ders — no doubt the work of the early Spanish 
 padres. The island is considered as about six 
 miles distant from CalMo, and it has its old his- 
 toric memories. The brave Earl Dundonald, 
 very early in his operations on this coast, was able 
 to liberate from this island thirty-seven ChiHan 
 soldiers, who were imprisoned by the Spaniards 
 for seven years.' They had been forced to work 
 in manacles, and at night were chained by the 
 legs to iron bars in a filthy shed. "Cochrane 
 established a laboratory in San Lorenzo, and whUe 
 rockets and fire-ships were being prepared there, 
 he sailed hither and thither, capturing treasure- 
 ships belonging to the Spaniards, and intercepting 
 
 ' Vide "Chambers' Miscellany," part iii. p. 27. 
 
CHAP. X.] CUTTING OUT THE " ^SMEEALDA." 179 
 
 treasure-trains inland." In September, 1819, lie 
 came from Valparaiso to attack CaUao ; his indo- 
 mitable spirit determined to give no peace to the 
 Spaniards till they were rooted out of the Pacific 
 shores. He was accompanied by a squadron of 
 seven vessels, with two fire-ships, and four hundred 
 soldiers to act as marines. He sent a flag of 
 truce, challenging the. Viceroy of Peru to fight 
 him ship for ship, which was, of course, prudently 
 declined. 
 
 But his greatest feat in Callao bay, subsequent 
 to the storming of Valdivia already recorded, was 
 the cutting out of the Spanish war-frigate " Esme- 
 ralda." This is so graphically described by 
 Stevenson* that I am tempted to give it in his 
 words — more especially as he at the time was 
 secretary to Lord Cochrane, who was Vice-Ad- 
 miral of Chili; and Stevenson was a sharer in 
 the attack : — 
 
 On the 3rd of November, 1820, his lordship 
 astonished the inhabitants of Callao by sailing 
 through the narrow passage that lies between 
 the island of San Lorenzo and the mainland, 
 called the Boqueron. Never had the Spaniards 
 kno^vn a vessel of more than fifty tons attempt 
 what they now saw done with a fifty-gun fi-igate. 
 Expecting every moment to see us founder, the 
 enemy had manned their gunboats, and formed 
 themselves in a hue, ready to attack the instant 
 "■ Op. cit. vol. iii. p. 289. 
 
180 TWO TEAES IN PERU: [cHAP. X. 
 
 tliey should observe us strike. To witness wliicli 
 tlie batteries were crowned witb spectators — but, 
 to their utter astonishment, we passed the strait, 
 leaving them to ruminate on the nautical tactics 
 of the admiral of the Chilean squadron. 
 
 Having passed the Boqueron, a ship and a 
 schooner hove in sight. The ship proved to be 
 English, the schooner to be the " Alcance " from 
 Guayaquil, bringing news of the revolution and 
 declaration of independence, and having on board 
 the ex-governor, with other Spanish authorities. 
 Guayaquil had followed the example of the other 
 South American cities in the manner in which she 
 threw off the colonial yoke. The Spanish manda- 
 tories were deposed, and a new Government 
 established on the 9th of October, without any 
 bloodshed, or even insults offered to the authori- 
 ties set aside. 
 
 The adventurous spirit of Lord Cochrane 
 immediately formed the project of performing the 
 most gallant achievement, that has honoured the 
 exertions of the patriot arms in the new world. 
 The two Spanish frigates, ". Prueba" (Proof) and 
 "Yenganza" (Vengeance), had left the coast of 
 Peru, and the only vessel of respectable force at 
 Callao was the frigate " Esmeralda." She was at 
 anchor in this port, guarded by fifteen gunboats, 
 two schooners, two brigs of war, and three large 
 armed merchantmen, besides the protection of the 
 forts and batteries on shore, and a floating boom 
 
CHAP. X.J WOEK AT MIDNIGHT. 181 
 
 surrounding all tlie vessels, open only on the north 
 side, lying close to the shore of Boca Negra. His 
 lordship determined on cutting out the frigate, 
 the brigs, and schooners, with as many of the 
 boats and merchantmen as might be possible. 
 This daring enterprise was to be executed by 
 volunteers alone. But when the act was pro- 
 posed, on the 3rd of November, to the crews of 
 the different vessels, the whole of them wished 
 to share in the glory of the undertaking. On 
 this account it became necessary to issue the 
 following proclamation, which was received with 
 the enthusiasm, that the voice of a hero 
 causes when he speaks to those who know his 
 character : — 
 
 " Soldiers and Sailors, — To-night we wiU give 
 a mortal blow to the enemy ; to-morrow you will 
 present yourselves before Callao, and all your com- 
 panions will look on you with envy. One hour of 
 courage and resolution is all that is necessary to 
 triumph. Remember that you are the victors of 
 Valdivia, and fear not those who have always 
 fled before you. 
 
 " The value of aU the vessels taken out of CaUao 
 shall be yours ; and, moreover, the same sum of 
 money offered by the Government of Lima to the 
 captors of any vessel of the Chilean squadron shall 
 be distributed amongst you. The moment of 
 glory is at hand. I hope, Chileans, you wiU 
 >)ehave as you have hitherto done, and that the 
 
182 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. X. 
 
 Englishmen will act as tliey are accustomed to 
 do, both at home and abroad. 
 
 " Nov. 4th, 1820. Cochrane." 
 
 On this day, the 4th of November, fourteen 
 boats belonging to the Chilean vessels of war were 
 manned, and left the ships, filled with volunteers, at 
 half-past ten at night. But this was only intended 
 by his lordship to exercise the men. On the 6th, 
 being the day determined on by the admiral for the 
 gallant enterprise, the signalman of the flag- ship 
 was sent to the signal-staff erected on the island of 
 San Lorenzo, where he hoisted two or three flags, 
 and was answered by the " O'Higgins." The " Lan- 
 taro," " Independencia," and " Araucano," imme- 
 diately weighed anchor and stood out of the bay, 
 leaving on board the " O'Higgins " (the admiral's 
 ship) the boats and volunteers. This ruse de guerre 
 completely succeeded, and the Spaniards were 
 persuaded that they had nothing to fear that night, 
 for they supposed that some strange sail had ap- 
 peared in the ofl5.ng, and that our vessels had gone 
 out in pursuit of it. All being thus ready, at 
 ten o'clock at night we again embarked in the 
 boats, and proceeded towards the inner anchorage. 
 The boats, containing two hundred and forty 
 volunteers, proceeded in two divisions — the first 
 imder command of Captain Crosbie of the flag-ship 
 — the second, of Captain Guise, of the " Lantaro," 
 both under the immediate direction of his lordship. 
 At midnight we passed the boom. Lord Coch- 
 
CHAP. X.J "UP, Mr lads! she's ours!" 183 
 
 rane, being in the first boat, was hailed from a gun- 
 boat, but, -without answering, he rowed alongside 
 her, and, standing up, said to the officer, " Silence 
 or death ! Another word, and I'll put you every 
 one to the sword ! "' Without waiting a reply, a few 
 strokes of the oars brought the boats alongside the 
 "Esmeralda," when his lordship sprang up the 
 gangway and shot the sentry; the one at the 
 opposite gangway levelled his musket and fired. 
 His lordship returned the fire and killed him, when, 
 turning round to the boats, he exclaimed, "Up, my 
 lads ; she's ours ! " 
 
 The soldiers and saUors now boarded her 
 in every direction, and possession of the quarter- 
 deck was immediately taken. The Spaniards 
 flew to the forecastle, where they defended 
 themselves, and kept up a continued fire of mus- 
 ketry for seventeen minutes, when they were 
 driven below and ohhged to surrender. "We had 
 scarcely obtained possession of the quarter-deck 
 when a gunboat,. closaastern of the frigate, fired 
 a shot into her. The shot tore up the deck under 
 the feet of Captaiii Coig, commander of the 
 " Esmeralda," and wounded him severely. It also 
 killed two English sailors and one native. But 
 the officer and crew of the boat immediately 
 abandoned her. 
 
 The frigate was in an excellent state of defence, 
 and her crew under good discipHne. The men 
 were all sleeping at theii" guns, and the guard of 
 
184 T-,YO TEAES IN PEKU. [cHAP. X. 
 
 marines on the quarter-deck. So prompt were the 
 latter, when his lordship jumped up the gangway, 
 that they appeared as if they had been ordered out 
 to receive him. Indeed, had not the men in the 
 boats, under the command of Captain Guise, 
 boarded almost at the same moment behind the 
 marines, the admiral and many others who accom- 
 panied him on the starboard side must have fallen 
 by their fire. His lordship at this time received a 
 shot through the thigh, but until the ship was ours 
 he paid no attention to the wound except binding 
 a handkerchief round it. After which he stood on 
 one of the guns of the quarter-deck and laid his leg 
 on the hammock netting, where he remained till 
 three o'clock in the morning, and then went on 
 board the " O'Higgins " to have it dressed bythe 
 surgeon. 
 
 WeU might Captain Downes, of the United 
 States war- ship "Macedonia,"^ have said in a 
 despatch to General San Martin, "I do most 
 sincerely congratulate Lord Cochrane upon the 
 capture of the 'Esmeralda.' The exploit was 
 executed in a gallant style never surpassed." 
 Well, too, did Sir James Mackintosh say in the 
 House of Commons:* "Lord Cochrane is such a 
 miracle of nautical skill and courage ; his cause of 
 banishment from his country is so lamentable ; his 
 adventures have been so romantic, and his achieve- 
 ments so splendid, that no Englishman can read 
 
 ' Op. cit. vol. iii. p. 299. ^ Idem, vol. iii. p. 279. 
 
CHAP. X.] BARRICADED POSITION. 185 
 
 them without pride that such things have been 
 done by his countryman, and without solemn con- 
 cern that such talents and genius should be lost to 
 the land that gave him birth." 
 
 But not less remarkable than the courage shown 
 in capturing the " Esmeralda " was the abUity with 
 which she was taken out of her barricaded position. 
 " It was the intention of Lord Cochrane," con- 
 tinues Stevenson,^ " to clear the bay according to 
 the instructions given ; but being wounded, and 
 the resistance made by the Spaniards on board 
 proving much greater than was expected, Captain 
 Guise ordered the cables to be cut, which being 
 done, the Mgate began to drift from her anchorage. 
 The batteries were pretty active during the engage- 
 ment, and when the ' Hyperion ' (English frigate 
 at anchor in the port) and ' Macedonia ' (United 
 States frigate in same position) sheeted home their 
 topsails, and began to move out of the way of the 
 shot, the firing increased. These ships showed two 
 lights — one at the mizen peak, the other at the 
 jibboom — as distinguishing signals, which, being 
 observed by Lord Cochrane, he immediately 
 ordered the same to be shown on board the 
 ' Esmeralda.' Thus she was brought out of the 
 anchorage with less damage than either of the 
 other two sustained. Indeed, excepting the shot 
 from the gunboat, the ' Esmeralda' sustained none 
 whatever." 
 
 ' ' Op. cit. vol. iii. p. 297. 
 
186 TWO TEAES IN PBEU. [cHAP. X. 
 
 With tliis we find the " Esmeralda " had, from 
 the Hsts that turned up, three hundred and twenty 
 persons on board, besides some visitors — ^the latter, 
 no doubt, from what had taken place the previous 
 day, not suspecting any danger. 
 
 On the following day, when the prisoners were 
 mustered, their number amounted to only a 
 hundred and seventy-three ; thus their loss was 
 inferred to be a hundred and fifty-seven, besides 
 several wounded, who were sent on shore with a 
 flag of truce. The loss of the attacking party 
 under Lord Cochrane amounted to eleven killed 
 and twenty-eight wounded." 
 
 Although the capture of the " Esmeralda " must 
 have proved not only a death-blow to the Spanish 
 naval forces in the Pacific, but have given additional 
 strength to the cause of Independence and South 
 American emancipation, this great victory was 
 not appreciated by General San Martin, whose 
 petty jealousy, exhibited in his treatment of Lord 
 Cochrane, is one of the gi-eatest blots on the 
 memory of the self-elected Dictator of Peru. 
 From this time for two years afterwards, the 
 paltry vanity of San Martin, added to his lack of 
 honesty in breaches of promise, of justice, and 
 humanity, made his name odious to every lover 
 of the principles of truth and right. But at the 
 end of 1822, and whilst residing on his estate at 
 Quintero, Lord Cochrane received the followino- 
 communication from Peru — a document that 
 
CH. X.] THE ONLY EECOMPENSE TO EAEL DUm)ONALD. 187 
 
 reflects mucli credit on the Congress of ttat 
 Republic :* — 
 
 " The sovereign constituent Congress of Peru, 
 contemplating how much the liberty of Peru owes 
 to the Right Honoiarable Lord Cochrane, by whose 
 talents, valour, and constancy, the Pacific has 
 been freed from our most inveterate enemies, and 
 the standard of liberty has been displayed on the 
 coast of Peru, resolves, that the junta of Govern- 
 ment, in the name of the Peruvian nation, do 
 present to Lord Cochrane, Admiral of the squa- 
 dron of Chile, expressions of our most sincere 
 gratitude for his achievements in favour of this 
 country, pnce tyrannized over by powerful enemies 
 — now the arbiter of its own fate. 
 
 " The junta of Government, obeying this, 
 wiU command its falfilment, and order it to be 
 printed, published, and circulated. — Given in the 
 Hall of Congress, Lima, the 27th of Septem- 
 ber, 1822. (Signed) Xavier de Luna Pizarro, 
 President ; Jose Sanchez Carrion, Deputy Secre- 
 tary; Francisco Xavier Marreategui, Deputy 
 Secretary. 
 
 " In obedience we order the execution of the 
 foregoing decree. (Signed) Jose de la Mar, Felipe 
 Antonio Alvarado, ElConde de Vista Florida. By 
 order of his Excellency Francisco Valdivieso." ^ 
 
 " Stevensou, Op. cit. vol. iii. p. 463. 
 
 ' Creditable though this document be, the general public will 
 regret to know, it was the only recompense given to the man 
 
188 TWO YEAES IN PEETJ. [OHAP. X. 
 
 The island of San Lorenzo, likewise, deserves 
 notice now-a-days as we pass it by. During the 
 last year, a governor has been named to it by 
 President Pardo. There are nearly three hundred 
 ■workmen living thereon, part of whom are 
 employed in the quarrying for Mr. Hodges, C.E., 
 in reference to his great work of the Muelle y 
 Darsena (the mole and dock) ; and the remainder 
 are employed in Messrs. Harris and Co.'s smelting 
 furnaces. 
 
 The first thing to attract attention in the 
 harbour of CaUao, as we round the Punta, is the 
 extensive machinery for making concrete which 
 has been put up here by Mr. Hodges ; and the 
 next is the great extent of yards, engine- 
 shops, and manager's residence of the Pacific 
 Steam Navigation Company. When the eye 
 ranges over these, and takes in the stores, as 
 
 ■who, before all others, was the main instrument in achie'ving 
 Peruvian independence ; whilst General San Martin, who made 
 himself Dictator chiefly by the help of Earl Dundonald's labours, 
 was rewarded with a pension for life of 20,000 dollars per year, 
 and a present of a large sum of money. Better late than never. 
 It may be hoped that the existing Peruvian Government will 
 follow the example recently set by one of the, most eminent of 
 Brazilian statesmen, who moved in the Parliament at Eio do 
 Janeiro, that Earl Dundonald's family should receive a further 
 reward due to them for their father's service, in achieving the 
 freedom of BraziL The motion was received with enthusiastic 
 applause, and without a dissenting voice, and was soon followed 
 bj' an award of 40,000/. Those who appreciate the sense of 
 justice due to such services, wiU join me in saying, — " May it 
 be no less in Peru !" 
 
CHAP. X.J FIEST STEAMEE ON THE PAOIPIC. 189 
 
 well as the large number of steamers in the bay, 
 "we can at once comprehend how the Pacific 
 Steam Navigation Company has come to be the 
 greatest British power on the West Coast of South 
 America. 
 
 It may not be mal-a-propos here to relate an 
 incident connected with the commencement of 
 steam navigation on the waters of the Pacific.^ 
 The first steamer that arrived on the coast of 
 Peru was one called the " Telica," its captain and 
 owner, Senor Metrovitch, having made the voyage 
 with it, under sail, fi-om Europe round by the 
 Straits of Magellan to Guayaquil, where he took 
 on board the machinery, together with the Colom- 
 bian flag, and several passengers. After a trial 
 trip in the river of Guayaquil on the Sunday 
 before departure, he set out seaward in the direction 
 of Callao. But, delayed in his voyage on account of 
 , the fogs along the coast, the supply of fael got short, 
 / and the captain became exasperated by the com- 
 plaints of his passengers, which were heaped upon 
 him to increased aggravation one day, whilst they 
 were breakfasting in the port of Guarmey . Where- 
 upon Metrovitch discharged a pistol into a barrel 
 of powder, causing the steamer to fly up into the 
 air {hizo volar el vapor). All of the passengers 
 and crew perished, with the exception of a few 
 that were on shore, and a man named Tom 
 
 * "From a volume piibKsh.ed in Spanish at Lima in 1871, 
 about tlie Eailway of Arequipa. 
 
190 TWO TEAKS IN PEEU. [CHAP. X. 
 
 Jump, who, standing at the ship's bow at the 
 moment of the explosion, leaped into the water, 
 and swam to land. " The hull of the steamer may 
 still be seen at Guarmey. 
 
 " The most curious part of the notice," says 
 the writer, " and for which I am indebted to the 
 amiability of Senores — Captain in the navy Don 
 AureHo Garcia y Grarcia, Don Frederick C. Fremdt, 
 and Colonel Don Manuel Odriozola — the most 
 curious, I repeat, is that this affair happened forty 
 years before steam navigation was established 
 between Europe and America. One of my in- 
 formants, M. Fremdt, had been a passenger on 
 board the ' Telica.' " 
 
 In the first report of the directors of the Pacific 
 Steam Navigation Company, of a meeting held at 
 the ofl&ces, in Austiu Friars, London, on Friday, 
 the 18th of August, 1843, it appears there 
 was some Httle stumbling-block at the threshold 
 of its operations, by an accident to the Chile 
 steamer, as well as by the books on the Pacific 
 stations being allowed to fall into arrear, and no 
 accounts therefore forwarded to England. At 
 this time the steamers of the company were 
 limited to two, the "Peru" and the "Chile." 
 They had likewise purchased a schooner for the 
 purpose of keeping up communication between 
 Callao and Panama; but, owing to calms and 
 currents, this vessel was sailed at a loss. The 
 " Peru " and " Chile " had, at the first, been limited 
 
CHAP. X.] PIEST DIFPIOULTEES OF P. S. N. COMPANY. 191 
 
 to the navigation of the coast between Oallao and 
 Talcahuano in Chile, — the latter near the Arauco 
 bay, and whence coal was obtained. The services 
 of the steamers were then prolonged northward to 
 Guayaquil, — a short time previous to the sale 
 of the schooner. At the period of which I am 
 writing, the paid-up capital of the company was 
 only 91,630L, added to which the loan of 20,000Z. 
 made up a sum of 111,630Z. In the account 
 presenting such statement there was shown a loss 
 of 13,695Z. 8s. lOd. Tet that this did not 
 frighten the directors may be assumed from the 
 following resolution which they adopted : — " The 
 directors deem it their duty, however, before 
 closing this report, to call the attention of the 
 proprietors to the necessity of sending a third 
 steamer to the Pacific, to provide against casualties, 
 or any interruption to the traffic in which the two 
 are now engaged, in the event of either being laid 
 up for temporary repairs." 
 
 Looking at the large fleet of steamers in the 
 bay whilst I am penning this, one may never- 
 theless admire these bold buccaneers of Austin 
 Friars, having the hardihood to propose a third 
 boat for the Pacific in the face of such a loss. 
 Because at the period the company was but an 
 experiment, which possibly never would have 
 weathered the storm of such a " heavy blow and 
 sad discouragement " to its financial operations, if 
 it had not for its promoters and managers such 
 
192 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. X. 
 
 men as Mr. William Wheelwriglit/ the founder 
 and originator of the company, Mr. George Petrie, 
 ■who is still manager at OaUao, and Mr. Richard 
 Just, in the same position at Liverpool. Let us 
 see how it has progressed from its three steamers 
 thirty years ago. 
 
 The company was organized in 1839, and in Feb- 
 ruary, 1840, was obtained the charter of incorpora- 
 tion. Its head-quarters in South America are at 
 Callao. The brain and heart of the company's works 
 are in a comparatively small oflELce in the Calle del 
 Muelle (the Street of the Mole) ; but these works 
 cover an area of over 60,000 square yards, at a por- 
 tion of the old Callao town, called Chucuito. They 
 comprise stores convenient to the Custom-house, 
 and from which a mole, wdth locomotive and steam- 
 cranes, assist in loading and dischai-ging. A little 
 farther on is the house of the manager, with exten- 
 sive stores underneath, as well as another mole with 
 steam-crane. Spacious iron and brass foundries ; 
 carpenters' apd blacksmiths' shops, in which is a 
 quantity of steam-power ; a steam washing-house 
 for the linen of the steamers worked by Chinese, 
 and capable of turning out 1000 pieces of linen 
 per day; a steam-bakery, with one of Perkins' 
 ovens large enough to hold 124 four lb. loaves at a 
 
 " This indefatigable friend of Soutli America — and most 
 jiuiiable of men — died at his residence, Gloucester Lodge, in the 
 Regent's Park, London, on the 2Gtliof September thisj'ear, and 
 \\"lulst the proofs of this work were going tlu'ough my hands. 
 
CHAP. X.J NEW AEEANGBMBNTS. 193 
 
 baking ; brass casting apparatus ; a residence for 
 tbe workmen in an enclosed block of buildings 
 called " Glasgow Terrace," wherein there is like- 
 wise a well-fitted theatre ; a butchery, with en- 
 closure of stalls for cows and sheep, needed in 
 the provisioning of steamers. There is also an 
 hospital, which was opened in 1865, but had to 
 be closed in 1869, when the Peruvian Govern- 
 ment enacted the hospital tax law referred to 
 elsewhere. 
 
 In the year 1870 the steamers of this company 
 brought to England about 106,000 bales of cotton, 
 amounting to nearly 9,600 tons. 
 
 The Hne of this company's steamers in con- 
 nexion with South America, from Liverpool, 
 has hitherto been bi-monthly in their voyages, 
 carrying cargo, passengers, and her Majesty's 
 mails. Although that just referred to has been 
 running for little more than three years, yet it 
 appears that the "company contemplate, early 
 next year, having a supernumerary fleet of some 
 twenty steamers, of between 3,000 and 4,000 tons 
 each, in order to maintain weekly communication 
 to and from Liverpool." 
 
 Of the new arrangement the following itinerary 
 
 is proposed : — 
 
 From Liverpool every Saturday; from Bor- 
 deaux every Tuesday ; from Lisbon every Friday ; 
 touching at Rio de Janeiro every Saturday ; calling 
 at Monte Video every Thursday; arri\dng at 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
194 TWO TBAES nsr peeu. [ohap. X. 
 
 Valparaiso every "Wednesday. From Valparaiso 
 every Thursday, calling at Monte Video every 
 Monday ; at Rio de Janeiro every Saturday ; 
 arriving at Liverpool every Thursday. Each 
 alternate steamer is to proceed as far north as 
 OaUao, stopping at Arica, and Islay, — going and 
 returning. 
 
 Besides these the company has steamers running 
 four times a month between Callao and Panama. 
 Those of the 14th and 28th of each month bring 
 mails and passengers from Callao, destined for Eng- 
 land, the Continent, United States and elsewhere, by 
 the royal mail steamers from Colon, on the oppo- 
 site side of the Isthmus of Panama. The first- 
 mentioned steamers return to Callao (whence, it 
 maybe needless to state, thereis almost daily means 
 of passage along the coast), leaving Panama on 
 the 10th and 26th of each month, thus effecting 
 the communication, within a month, between 
 CaUao and England or the Continent. The third 
 steamer on this line is that which leaves Callao on 
 the 22nd of each month to correspond with the 
 New York steamers, as well as the Mexican and 
 Californian lines from Panama; and the fourth 
 leaves Callao on the 6th of each month for the 
 French Compagnie Transatlantique, to and from 
 Colon. 
 
 I have elsewhere shown the amount of hospital 
 tax paid by the Company's steamers. In Callao, 
 at the offices and works, they have about 480 
 
OHAP. X.J LAEGB FLEET OF STEAMERS. 195 
 
 hands employed, independent of tte commanders, 
 officers, and crews of more than twenty steamers 
 that are daily arriving and departing for different 
 parts of the coast. 
 
 Last year the company had forty-four steainers 
 comprising their fleet; whereas now they have 
 fifty-four, with an aggregate of 106,980 registered 
 tons, and a combined force of 19,680 horse power. 
 Sixteen of its vessels were laid to sail fi'om 
 Liverpool out hither, and through the Straits 
 of Magellan, in the five months from the end 
 of July, 1872, to the end of December in the same 
 year. 
 
 Between Callao and Valparaiso there is a bi- 
 weekly steam communication to Valparaiso besides 
 the line of Magellan Straits steamers. There 
 are generally from ten to twelve of the company's 
 steamers in the Bay of Callao, arrivals and 
 departures being of daily occurrence. Since the 
 first of this year the Pacific Company has had an 
 opposition in a fine of French steamers of the 
 " Compagnie Generale Transatlantique " between 
 Valparaiso and Panama, touching at Callao. 
 Messrs. Ismay, Imrie, and Co., of Liverpool, have 
 commenced, on the 5th of October 1872, a second 
 series of steamers for the West Coast of South Ame- 
 rica — " The Wliite Star Line " — to come through 
 the Straits of Magellan to Callao. With these, 
 German steamers have begun to voyage through 
 the Straits from Hamburg to Callao, the first of 
 
 2 
 
196 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [OHAP. X. 
 
 which, the " Karnak," together with the first of 
 the White Star Line, the "Eepuhlio," arrived 
 at, and left Callao in the month of December 
 last year. 
 
 As proofs of the large trade created by the 
 Pacific Steam Navigation Company, I may add a 
 few facts- During the single month of May in the 
 year 1872 its steamers conveyed from Callao, either 
 via Panama transit, or through the Straits of 
 Magellan, more than 5,000 bales of cotton. From 
 Saturday evening, the 7th of December, to Monday 
 morning, the 9th of the same, or in the space of 
 thirty-six hours, there arrived in the Bay of 
 Callao the following steamers of this company 
 with the corresponding cargo : — 
 
 The " Quito," feom San Jose and intermediate ports, mth 1,769 
 
 packages and 506 in transit. 
 The " Trujillo," from Panama, Guayaqnil, and Payta, mth 3,081 
 
 and 1,124 in transit. 
 The " Pacific," from Valparaiso and intermediate ports, with 757 
 
 and 74 in transit. 
 The " San Carlos," from Pisco and intermediate ports, -with 256 
 
 and 77 in transit. 
 
 Total for Callao . 5,863 
 
 In transit ... . 1,871 
 
 Grand Total . . 7,734 
 
 Before going ashore, we must have a look round 
 and see what other matters are to be noticed in 
 the Bay of Callao. Besides the immense forest of 
 masts, we cannot help observing the floating dock 
 and the new Muelle y Darsena (mole and dock), 
 
OHAP. X.J FLOATxNQ DOCK AT OALLAO. 197 
 
 being constructed by Mr. Hodges, C.B., for Messrs. 
 Thomas Brassey and Co., of London. 
 
 The floating dock is one of the most impor- 
 tant institutions on the Pacific coast of South 
 America. 
 
 The privilege for this dock was granted by the 
 Peruvian Government on the 14th of April, 1863, 
 to Mr. George Petrie, manager of the Pacific 
 Steam Navigation Company, with the obligation to 
 form a separate company to carry out its ob- 
 jects. 
 
 The Dock trust was to have the exclusive privi- 
 lege for twenty years for the establishment of 
 docking accommodation in the Bay of Callao. 
 On the 16th AprU, in the same year, Mr. Petrie 
 announced in OaUao " The Callao Dock Company," 
 capital 600,000 dollars (75,000Z.), in 500 shares 
 of 1,000 dollars each, of which half the number 
 should be ofiered to the public of Peru. 404 shares 
 were at once taken there, and 250 shares inEngland 
 as soon as Mr. Petrie could proceed to place them. 
 The dock was made at Glasgow by the eminent firm 
 of Kandolf, Elder, and Co., for a sum of 42,000Z. ; 
 the whole expense of freight, insurance, &c., from 
 Glasgow being at the cost of the Dock Com- 
 pany. 
 
 The material, consisting of plates, rivets, angle- 
 irons, pipes, machinery, &c., was sent out by 
 sailing vessels, and amounted to nearly 2,900 
 tons in weight. The launch- ways were constructed 
 
198 TWO TEAES IN PEETJ. [CHAP. X. 
 
 by Mr. James Anderson, who is still the dock 
 master. The structure is called the St. George's. 
 
 It draws only four feet of water. The mea- 
 surement in length is 300 feet, and in breadth 
 100 feet outside, inside- 76 feet. It can be put 
 down suflB.ciently to take in a vessel of twenty-one 
 feet draught, and can hit about 6,000 tons of dead 
 weight. It is sunk by opening the valves and let- 
 ting water in, and pumped out by a pair of steam 
 pumps of twenty-five horse-power each. As it has 
 been from the beginning, so it is still, i.e. the fol- 
 lowing tariff of charges for the use of the dock is 
 to be calculated by measurement, viz. — 
 
 For Steamers and Ships of War : 
 
 1 sole (3s. 9d) per ton for first day. 
 75 cents of a sole „ four following days. 
 
 50 „ „ sntsequent days. 
 
 For SaiHng Vessels : 
 
 50 cents of a sole per ton for first day. 
 
 25 ,, „ following days. 
 
 From these rates 33 per cent, has to be allowed 
 to the Peruvian Government, and a reduction of 
 26 per cent, is made to the Pacific Steam ISTaviga- 
 tion Company; use of dock hawsers, stages, blocks, 
 shores, &c., 60 soles (101.) for vessels under 500 
 tons, and 100 soles for those over 500 tons. 
 
 The following are facts with reference to this 
 dock that may be depended on : — 
 
 1. That it is perfectly rigid and firm as it Avas 
 
CHAP. X.J PEOQEESS OP NEW BOOK. 199 
 
 when first launched six years ago, in spite of all 
 the weight that has been put on it. 
 
 2. That a vessel of any tonnage can be lifted 
 in from an hour and a half to two hours, according 
 to its weight. 
 
 The foregoing details have been given to 
 me by Mr. Noel West, who is the very eflacient 
 manager of the dock in Callao. Last year the 
 company paid 12 per cent, to the shareholders, 
 whilst reserving 5 per cent. ■ for a depreciation 
 fund. 
 
 When I was leaving Callao in May of this present 
 year, I was informed by ]\ir. James Hodges,' C.E., 
 the principal of the great work of the Muelle y 
 Darsena, that he had then seven hundred men 
 employed on it, together with three locomotives, 
 fifteen steam engines, and a steam dredger, two 
 tugs, and thirty barges. These combined powers 
 manage to put in situ fi:om 2,000 to 2,500 tons 
 of material per day. Of this, from 40 to 60 blocks 
 of concrete form no unimportant portion, — each 
 block weighing ten tons. At an angle from the turn 
 of the inner bay, going up to the old mole, and 
 crossing down a length of 1,200 feet, opposite the 
 parish chapel, they are filling up what is to be a 
 
 ' As a guarantee of the soKdity and perfect nature of the 
 work, I may add that this is the gentleman, wlio buUt the 
 Victoria Bridge over the St. Lawrence near Montreal, in 1853 to 
 1859. In the last-named year it was opened by the Prince of 
 Wales on behalf of her Majesty. 
 
200 TWO YEAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. X. 
 
 large embankment of reclaimed ground, necessi- 
 tating nearly 600,000 tons of earth. In the 
 works of the Punta they turn out from 536 to 
 660 blocks of concrete (ten tons each) within 
 the fortnight. 
 
 The proceedings at this mole had been carried on 
 in a slow manner, till the original concessionists, 
 Messrs. Templeman and Bergmann, of Lima, 
 handed it over to Messrs. Thomas Brassey and Co., 
 of London, on the 13th of July, 1870. These 
 world-renowned contractors sent out Mr. Hodges 
 to do the work. 
 
 It may be understood by a few figures what is 
 the extent of this undertaking. 
 
 The dimensions of the blocks of concrete are 
 8ft. 2 in. by 4 ft. by 3 ft. Sjin., and the average 
 weight of each 8 tons. The depth of water here 
 may be guessed from the fact of seven layers of 
 blocks being required to come up to low- water mark. 
 
 The area of the mole and dock over all is to be 
 984 feet by 820 feet — 806,880 superficial feet. 
 Besides this, there is a large space of water and 
 old pier place to be reclaimed, approximately, 
 490,000 superficial feet. The whole is to be com- 
 pleted in June, 1874. 
 
 It appears that the primary concession, granted 
 by the National Government to Messrs. Templeman 
 and Bergmann for this work implies the following 
 privileges : — They are to hold it for sixty years, 
 for the first ten of which it is to be an exclusive 
 
CHAP. X.] PEIVILEGBS OP KEW DOCK. 201 
 
 privilege. At the end of ten years the Govern- 
 ment may claim the right to pm"chase it, and -when 
 sixty years shall have terminated, it will belong to 
 the nation. 
 
 All vessels above 10 tons entering the Bay of 
 Callao must pay 10 cents, of a sole per ton 
 register, for which they can make use of the dock, 
 by means of their boats, in shipping provisions 
 and so forth. Ships of war of any nation are 
 not to be charged. 
 
 Vessels entering the dock of above 10 tons are 
 to be charged 76 cents, of a sole per ton for all 
 goods landed or shipped. 
 
 Owners of goods will have to pay the actual 
 present cost of landing and shipping, with a 
 reduction of 6 per cent, on same. 
 
 In no case can the charge exceed 2 soles 50 
 centanos per ton measurement, and 1 sole 60 cen- 
 tanos per ton weight : that is, ia fact, from 9s. to 
 10s. in the first case (measurement), and from 5s. 
 to 6s. in the second (weight). 
 
 I have not been able to ascertain what are the 
 terms or conditions of purchase in case the Govern- 
 ment should be disposed to eflFect this at the end 
 of ten years. 
 
 Messrs. Brassey and Co. have likewise, to- 
 gether with the concrete manufactory, a forge 
 and saw-mill worked by steam, close to the new 
 mole. 
 
 From statistics supplied to me by Senor Don 
 
202 
 
 TWO YEAES IN PEETJ. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 Manuel Palacios (late Captain of the Port in this 
 city), I find the following number and tonnage of 
 vessels entered and cleared during the first six 
 months of the present year, 1872 :— 
 
 Ships Entered. 
 
 Nationality. 
 
 Nnmber of 
 SHpB. 
 
 Eegistered 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Average 
 
 Tonnage of 
 
 Cargoes. 
 
 Peruvian 
 British . 
 North American 
 French . 
 Italian . 
 German . 
 
 Central American 
 Swedish 
 Others . 
 
 
 193 
 103 
 46 
 43 
 21 
 12 
 35 
 19 
 10 
 
 31,932 
 88,472 
 48,682 
 22,093 
 12,067 
 
 9,259 
 11,808 
 10,938 
 
 5,166 
 
 42,470 
 117,668 
 64,614 
 29,384 
 16,049 
 12,315 
 15,705 
 14,547 
 6,870 
 
 Total 
 
 482 
 
 240,317 
 
 319,622 
 
 Caegoes Extered. 
 
 Species of Cargo. 
 
 Xmuber of 
 Ships. 
 
 Registered 
 Tonnage. 
 
 General Cargo ..... 
 
 84 
 
 50,678 
 
 Lumber, chiefly firom United States . 
 
 49 
 
 25,846 
 
 Coal 
 
 33 
 
 38,039 
 
 EaUway Plant ..... 
 
 1 
 
 1,047 
 
 Wheat and Mour .... 
 
 33 
 
 8,710 
 
 Chinese Immigrants .... 
 
 15 
 
 11,544 
 
 Cattle .... 
 
 1 
 
 150 
 
 Guano from Guanape 
 
 15 
 
 14,009 
 
 ,, Macabi . 
 
 24 
 
 18,047 
 
 Fruits 
 
 156 
 
 16,073 
 
 Ballast, coastwise .... 
 
 34 
 
 23,506 
 
 „ foreign. ... 
 
 37 
 
 32,110 
 
 Total . 
 
 482 
 
 240,317 
 
OHAP. X.] 
 
 EXPORTS FEOM OALLAO. 
 
 203 
 
 Class of Ships. 
 
 Number of 
 Ships. 
 
 EespectiTs 
 Toimages. 
 
 Number of 
 Passengers. 
 
 Sailing Ships . 
 
 Steamers 
 
 Coasters 
 
 482 
 236 
 319 
 
 240,317 
 
 180,176 
 
 3,072 
 
 42 
 
 22,554 
 84 
 
 Total 
 
 1,037 
 
 423,565 
 
 22,680 
 
 "WTiilst I cannot account for tlie omission, in the 
 previous sununaryj of 6,535 Chinese amongst the 
 passengers entered (which. th.us makes a total 
 immigration to the country of 29,215, instead of 
 22,680), I may point to th.e fact, that the cargoes 
 cleared include no Chinese, although their engage- 
 ment is supposed to be only for a term of eight- 
 years. 
 
 Ships Cleaeed. 
 
 Nationality. 
 
 Number of 
 Ships. 
 
 Eegistered 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Average 
 
 Tonnage of 
 
 Cargoes. 
 
 Peruvian 
 
 British .... 
 
 North American 
 
 French .... 
 
 Italian .... 
 
 German . .... 
 
 Central American 
 
 Norwegian 
 
 Swedish 
 
 Others .... 
 
 188 
 
 96 
 49 
 39 
 15 
 15 
 38 
 3 
 17 
 10 
 
 29,012 
 
 83,236 
 
 54,265 
 
 19,266 
 
 9,290 
 
 10,643 
 
 13,089 
 
 1,410 
 
 9,674 
 
 6,023 
 
 38,586 
 
 110,704 
 
 72,172 
 
 25,624 
 
 12,356 
 
 14,155 
 
 17,408 
 
 1,875 
 
 12,857 
 
 8,011 
 
 Total . 
 
 470 
 
 235,908 
 
 313,768 
 
204 
 
 TWO TE/ES m PEEU. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 Caegoes Cleaked. 
 
 Specimens of Cargo. 
 
 Ntunter of 
 Ships. 
 
 Registered 
 Tonnage- 
 
 Gil an for England . 
 „ Trance 
 
 Belgium . 
 „ Havana . 
 Assorted Cargoes 
 
 „ „ and Eruits 
 In I5allast for BaUestas Islands 
 „ Guanape „ 
 ,, Macabi „ 
 „ Coastwise . 
 „ Foreign Ports 
 
 
 4 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 168 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 38 
 47 
 94 
 
 6,239 
 
 4,614 
 16,778 
 
 1,313 
 25,146 
 
 4,255 
 159 
 73,982 
 34,512 
 20,009 
 49,901 
 
 Total . 
 
 470 
 
 235,908 
 
 Class of Ships. 
 
 Ifmnber of 
 Ships. 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Passengers. 
 
 Sailing Vessels 
 
 Steamers 
 
 Coasters 
 
 470 
 239 
 298 
 
 235,908 
 
 159,288 
 2,933 
 
 657 
 
 22,243 
 
 323 
 
 Total 
 
 1,007 
 
 398,129 
 
 23,223 
 
 Balances of previous Tables. 
 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Passengers came in 
 
 „ -went out . 
 
 Surplus left the country 
 
 Numbers. 
 
 Imports 
 Exports 
 
 240,317 
 235,908 
 
 22,680 
 23,223 
 
 Surplus of Imports 
 
 4,409 
 
 543 
 
 Of the vessels entered and departed the higliest 
 amount of tonnage "was English, then in succession, 
 North American, Peruvian, French, and Itahan. 
 
 Vessels with guano are less in number than in 
 the last six months of 1S71. This may be partly 
 accounted for by the fact that many ships left 
 
CHAP. X.J QUANTTTT OF GTJANO. 205 
 
 the guano islands of Macabi and Guanape for their 
 destinations without calling at Callao. During the 
 present year, however, an edict has been passed, ren- 
 dering it obhgatory on all vessels laden with guano 
 to touch at Callao before they start for abroad. 
 
 Amongst the fifteen vessels that brought Chi- 
 nese, ten were Peruvians, two French, two Portu- 
 guese, and one Dutch. They embarked from Macao 
 7,206 Chinese, of which number 6,635 arrived in 
 CaUao — showing a loss of 671 in transit — that 
 is, an average of "093, or nearly ten per cent. 
 
 At the time of the foregoing table being com- 
 piled by the Captain of the Port, there were eighty 
 foreign vessels in the Bay of Callao. 
 
 That the greatest number of craft trading to 
 Callao are British will appear at once from an 
 extract of the commercial circular, published 
 by Messrs. Bryce, Grace, and Co., of this city, on 
 the 28th of May last. This gave the names of 
 188 vessels cleared, sailed, and loading at different 
 foreign ports^for Peru — the larger number being 
 for Callao. They are classified as follows : — 
 
 Nationality. 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 British 
 
 K"orth American 
 
 Prench 
 
 Norwegian . 
 
 liTortli German 
 
 Salvadorian 
 
 Others 
 
 55,815 
 42,619 
 6,404 
 1,349 
 2,936 
 1,654 
 1,879 
 
 Total 
 
 112,656 
 
206 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [cHAP. X. 
 
 It appears to me more than probable tbat no 
 small amount of this shipping may be credited to 
 the exaggerated reports that have been circulated 
 in England, the States, and on the Continent, about 
 enormous supplies of recently-discovered guano 
 deposits. The Field, in its issue of the first week 
 of June, 1872, prints the following statement :-^- 
 
 " Peeuvian GtTJANO. — The supply of Peruvian 
 guano receives an immense accession from an un- 
 looked-for quarter. We learn from private sources 
 that a vast deposit of guano has been revealed 
 some distance to the south of Lima, and several 
 miles inland. ' The guano hes under successive 
 beds of black salt (?), nitrate of soda, and borax. 
 The deposit consists of many millions of tons." 
 
 This no doubt refers to the neighbourhood of 
 Pisco, nearly opposite the Chincha Islands, about 
 which some absurd rumours were got up in Lima, 
 but that I ascertained, on inquiry, were perfectly 
 foundationless. The statement' that the Peruvian 
 Government ha^s still available 300,000,000Z. ster- 
 Hng of guano, is so enormously misleading, and so 
 entirely without proof, that I consider it my duty 
 to say it has no foundation. 
 
 Another report was published at Callao in the 
 month of May last, with reference to an extensive 
 deposit of guano having been found recently on 
 the mainland near to Supe, which is only ninety- 
 
 ilade Ly Mr. Consul Vines of Islay, and published in Con- 
 sular Reports for 1872. 
 
CHAP. X.] GUANO SUPPLIES FOE FUTUEE. 207 
 
 one miles nortli of Callao, and is the northern 
 boundary of the Callao Consular Jurisdiction. 
 This guano was said to extend to Gramandel, 
 Colorado Grande, Punta de Santander, Casma, 
 Caleta de Mongon, and the vicinity. It was 
 accredited to be calculated at about 1,000,000 
 tons, and to be equal, if not superior in purity, 
 to the guano of the Chincha Islands. 
 
 Guano being, since its discovery in 1836, one 
 of the principal sources of Peruvian wealth, 
 I have done aU in my power, since my arrival in 
 Callao, to ascertain its probable actuality as regards 
 future supplies. I have been informed, after very 
 cautious inquiries at the Guanape and Macabee 
 Islands, that the former are calculated to possess 
 stin about 600,000 tons, and the latter to have 
 approximately 760,000 tons. This report comes 
 to me only a month ago,^ when at Guanape there 
 were forty-seven vessels loading at the rate of 
 600 tons per day; and fifteen ships at Macabee, 
 loading at the rate of over 300 tons per day- 
 Added to the quantity just mentioned at the 
 Guanape and Macabee Islands, I am assured, on 
 the best authority, that the guano on the Lobos 
 Islands, which are situated farther north, does not 
 exceed 750,000 tons. So that the' whole export- 
 able giiano which Peru possesses to-day may be 
 safely estimated as under 3,000,000 tons. 
 
 ° In tlie montli of Xoveniber, 1872. 
 
208 
 
 TWO TBAES IN PEEU. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 The large number of seals and sea-lions, wliicli 
 frequent the localities where guano is found, 
 makes it extremely probable that some of this de- 
 posit is left by these animals, as -well as by birds. 
 Corroborating impressions of such conviction have 
 been conveyed to me by Mr. Steer, from the 
 University of Michigan, in the United States, who 
 has collected, bottled up, and analyzed specimens 
 which he knows to have been deposited by seals, 
 and which is perfectly analogous to the guano 
 of commerce. 
 
 Statement showing the nett product of Guano 
 sold in 1871 in the consignments to Europe and 
 to Messrs. Dreyffus Brothers and Co. 
 
 Consignments. 
 
 Tons sold. 
 
 Nett Product. 
 
 Sterling. 
 
 1 
 
 Soles. 
 
 c. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 Great Britain 
 
 111,456 
 
 -4,095,910 
 
 73 
 
 767,983 5 3 
 
 France and Mauritins . 
 
 106,736 
 
 3,940,267 
 
 16 
 
 738,800 1 10 
 
 Belgium 
 
 77,625 
 
 3,093,391 
 
 60 
 
 580,010 18 6 
 
 Germany : 
 
 24,615 
 
 8SS,109 
 
 20 
 
 166,520 9 6 
 
 Italy .... 
 
 5,571 
 
 217,027 
 
 80 
 
 40,692 14 3 
 
 Holland 
 
 6,686 
 
 318,176 
 
 02 
 
 59,658 1 
 
 Spain .... 
 
 30,511 
 
 1,187,183 
 
 48 
 
 222,596 18 
 
 
 363,200 
 
 13,740,065 
 
 99 
 
 2,576,262 7 5 
 
 Dreyffus Bros, and Co. 
 
 30,526 
 
 1,116,690 
 
 92 
 
 209,379 11 
 
 
 393,726 
 
 14,856,756 
 
 91 
 
 2,785,641 18 5 
 
 Guano existing in the 
 
 deposits 
 
 of 
 
 the consign- 
 
 ments on June 30th, 187 
 
 2:— 
 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Great Britain 
 
 
 1 
 
 37.7o7 
 
 Prance and JIauritius 
 
 
 
 38,416 
 
 Belgium 
 
 
 
 6,174 
 
 Italy . 
 
 
 
 9,330 
 
 Spain 
 
 
 
 10,628 
 
 United Sta 
 
 t^ 
 
 
 
 39,521 
 
 Actual Tons 
 
 381,826 
 
CHAP. X.] PBEUVIAN BONDS IN EB GUANO. 
 
 209 
 
 On the voyage, to August 31st, 1872 :— 
 
 Tons. 
 Great Britain .... 24,892 
 
 France and Mauritius 
 
 Belgium 
 
 Spain . 
 
 Italy . 
 
 HoUand 
 
 United States 
 
 Tons (register) 
 
 Loading on August 31st, 1872 
 Great Britain . . . 8,137 
 France and Mauritius . 7,104 
 Belgium .... 7,459 
 United States . . . '1,550 
 
 7,931 
 
 25,509 
 
 937 
 
 580 
 
 3,625 
 
 2,187 
 
 65,661 
 
 Tons (register) . 
 Add 33 per cent, (approximate) for 
 actual tons .... 
 
 Actual Tons . 
 
 24,250 
 
 89,911 
 
 29,670 
 
 119,681 
 
 Relating to the future supply of guano I have 
 to add, that during arrangement of materials of this 
 work, the following appeared in one of the London 
 papers (July 15th). I put it here for the object 
 of adding my testimony to the statements of his 
 Excellency, Senor Don Pedro Galvez, the Peruvian 
 Minister Plenipotentiary, although I have had no 
 communication with that gentleman on the subject : 
 
 " Pbeuvian Bonds and Guano Deposits. — No- 
 ticing the calculations, founded on a report of the 
 British Consul at Callao, as to the supjaosed 
 insufficiency of the guano deposits in Peru as a 
 
 VOL. I. P 
 
210 TWO lEAUS IN PEEU. [cHAP. X. 
 
 guarantee for the external debt of tliat nation, the 
 Peruvian Minister in London writes : — The quan- 
 tity of guano in the deposits of Peru cannot be 
 calculated with any certainty, neither can an 
 approximate measui'ement be obtained. At present 
 the Government is quite satisfied as to the quan- 
 tity remaining, and there is not the least ground 
 to fear that the guano will be finished within the 
 next ten years, calculating the demand to be, 
 more or less, about 500,000 tons per annum. 
 Assuming that Mr. Hutchinson's calculation is 
 correct,* there is still no cause for alarm. Sup- 
 posing the stock of exportable guano on the 
 island to be 3,000,000 tons, and the quantity in 
 stock or on the way to be 500,000 tons, which is 
 putting it at a very low figure, we have a total 
 of 3,500,000 tons. This, at the net price of 
 81. 10s. per ton, gives us the sum of 29,750,000L, 
 which we can calculate upon as disposable for 
 the payment of the Peruvian Loan of 1872, 
 36,800,000?. But of the amount of this loan 
 15,000,000Z. are by the terms of the contract to 
 be exclusively applied by degrees, during a period 
 of several years, to various public works in con- 
 templation, which when ' completed are to form 
 one of the guarantees oflFered to the bondholders. 
 In the same loan is also included the sum of 
 15,000,000Z. of the loan of 1870 j this has been 
 
 * As it appeared amongst Consular Eeports, published by the 
 Foreign Office in May, 1873. 
 
CHAP. X.] NO ALARM TO BONDHOLDBES. 211 
 
 employed in the construction of railways, some 
 of wliicli are completed and others very far ad- 
 vanced, and these works, like those in contempla- 
 tion, are an additional guarantee to the bond- 
 holders. Another security for the bondholders 
 is the nitrate of soda, the demand for which 
 increases every year. In 1871 the exportation of 
 this article was 200,000 tons ; this, at 161. per 
 ton, gives a sum of 3,200,000Z., on which the 
 Government could levy a tax of 10 per cent., and 
 this would give us 320,000Z., or nearly enough for 
 the service of the loan, even supposing the de- 
 mand did not increase. The development of the 
 country is such that during the year 1871 the 
 Customs produced 1,200,000Z., and this source of 
 income is increasing immensely every year. If 
 we add to this the fact that already upwards of 
 1,000,000/. of the loan of 1872 had been paid oflF, 
 I think that even taking, as I have, Mr. Hutchin- 
 son's statement as a basis on which to form a 
 calculation, I have at least shown that there is no 
 cause for the alarm of the bondholders." 
 
 In this I firmly believe, from my two years' 
 experience of Peru. I therefore have no hesitation 
 to endorse the conclusion, that " there is no cause 
 of alarm to the bondholders : " whilst I cannot 
 consider it other than highly improper to allow 
 such an unwai-ranfcable assertion, as that of three 
 hundred millions of pounds sterHng^ of guano still 
 ' Vide p. 206. 
 p 2 
 
?12 
 
 TWO YBAES IN PEEU. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 existing, to go before tte public "without being 
 contradicted. There seems to me not the slightest 
 danger in Peru for guarantee of its external debt. 
 The progressing prosperity of the Republic may re- 
 ceive a cogent illustration by the folio wing figures : — 
 
 Eetukns fob Customs of Callao dueing Eleven Months 
 OF 1872. 
 
 1872. 
 
 Currency. 
 
 sterling. 
 
 
 Soles, c. 
 
 £ s. 
 
 d. 
 
 January .... 
 
 303,185 87 
 
 56,847 7 
 
 
 
 Tebruary . 
 
 
 303,514 52 
 
 56,908 19 
 
 5 
 
 March 
 
 
 305,148 39 
 
 57,215 6 
 
 6 
 
 April . 
 
 
 316,294 05 
 
 59,305 2 
 
 8 
 
 May . 
 
 
 371,830 00 
 
 69,718 2 
 
 6 
 
 Juue . 
 
 
 403,027 63 
 
 75,567 13 
 
 7 
 
 July. 
 
 
 402,468 46 
 
 75,462 16 
 
 9 
 
 August 
 
 
 414,956 67 
 
 77,804 7 
 
 6 
 
 September . 
 
 
 408,380 21 
 
 76,571 6 
 
 9 
 
 October 
 
 . 
 
 472,388 49 
 
 88,672 16 
 
 10 
 
 November .... 
 
 537,196 66 
 
 100,724 7 
 
 6 
 
 Another item of evidence of the increasing trade 
 at CaUao may be educed from the fact that Senor 
 Morales rented the mole-tax fi:-om 1st October, 
 1870, to 30th of September, 1872, for the sum of 
 85,000 soles, or 16,937Z. 10s., whilst the same 
 concern, put up to auction, was rented by the 
 same gentleman from 1st October, 1872, to hold 
 on tiU 30th September, 1874, for the sum of 
 169,200 soles, or 3],72.5Z., nearly double the first 
 amoimt, at the nominal exchange of 45(i. per 
 sole. 
 
 No better proof of the monthly increasing trade 
 
OHAP. X.] CUSTOM-HOUSE EBOEIPTS. 213 
 
 of Oallao need be adduced than -what is proved by 
 this last table. From -which it may be observed, 
 that in the month just passed (November, 1872), 
 the Custom-house receipts amounted to 537,196 
 soles, or 100,724Z. 7s. 6d., being an excess over 
 the preceding month of October in the same 
 year of 64,808 soles 17 c, or 12,151Z. 10s. 8d. 
 A glance at the table will likevidse show that each 
 successive month had a progressive increase over 
 its predecessor, tUl the Revolution in July put a 
 temporary check to it. 
 
 The Government has published that the receipts 
 of the several Custom-houses in the Republic for 
 the ten months of the present year, ending 31st 
 October, show a total of 5,740,656 soles 87 c, or 
 1,076,373Z. 3s. Sd. 
 
 Not only, in the words of the Minister, does the 
 demand for nitrate of soda increase every year, 
 but, what is better, the supply is found to exceed 
 the demand. And no doubt that further explora- 
 tions through the province of Tarapaca, where 
 Iquique and Pisagua are situated, will show, as is 
 being done daily, new sources of this wealth. More- 
 over, the railroads of Mr. Meiggs are already 
 leading to discoveries of silver — a great excite- 
 ment being recently created in the neighbourhood 
 of Chilete, on the Pacasmayo railroad, by the 
 extraordinary argent riches of that district. 
 
 I have received from Major WilHamson, United 
 States' Consul, a lengthened table of statistics of 
 
214 TWO TEARS IN PEETT. [OHAP. X. 
 
 the particulars of North American commerce 
 with this port of Peru for the year beginning 
 1st October, 1871, and ending the 1st October, 
 1872. I must, however, make a synopsis of it, as 
 the whole would occupy too much space. By this 
 table I learn that in the quarter from 1st Decem- 
 ber, 1871, to 31st December same year, twenty- 
 six merchant vessels bearing the United States 
 flag came into this port of the aggregate of 
 24,297 tons. The cargo of these consisted of 
 lumber, 5,469,000 feet ; wheat, 41,750 bushels ; 
 coals, 3,706 tons; sperm oil, 3,937 gallons — said 
 cargoes being valued at 758,945 soles, or 
 146,468L 17s. Id. Of these ships, twenty-five left, 
 one being sold, and fourteen of them sailed with 
 guano — theunited cargoes oftheir 23,750 tons being 
 estimated at 948,750 soles, or 177,890Z. 12s. 6d. 
 In the quarter from 1st of January to 31st of March, 
 1872, there came in twenty-eight United States 
 vessels with an aggi'egate of 29,688 tons, consist- 
 ing of coals, 10,234 tons ; lumber, 1,814,000 feet; 
 wheat, 34,000 bushels, 30,900 railway ties, valued 
 at 1,084,110 soles, or 203,270Z. 12s. 6d. These 
 ships all sailed, fourteen of the lot being with guano 
 cargoes ; and the value of total cargoes being 
 985,172 soles 87 c, or 184,719Z. 18s. Sd. 
 
 The quarter from 1st April to 30th June shows 
 twenty-seven North American vessels of the aggre- 
 gate of 29,934tons, and cargoes valued at 433,935 
 soles, or 81 ,362Z. 16s. dd. Of these vessels thirteen 
 
GHAP. X.] PEOGEESS IN TEADB AT CALLAO. 
 
 215 
 
 left with guano, two were sold, two remained in 
 port at the end of the quarter ; and the total cargo 
 brought away by those that sailed valued at 696,980 
 soles, or 130,683Z. 16s. 
 
 In the last quarter, from 1st July to 30th Septem- 
 ber, the number of United States vessels entering 
 Avas thirty-seven of 40,266 tons, and cargo valued 
 at 1,364,705 soles, or 255,882Z. 3s. 9d. AU of 
 these sailed together, with some that had re- 
 mained from the previous quarter, comprising an 
 aggregate of 46,615 tons, and a value of cargoes 
 of 1,408,450 soles, or 264,084L 7s. 6d. Of these 
 twenty-seven left with guano. 
 
 Of French and Italian shipping at Callao I find 
 the following during the respective years : — 
 
 rKENCH. 
 
 
 Arrivals. 
 
 Departnres. 
 
 Years. 
 
 No. of 
 Ships. 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Crews. 
 
 No. of 
 Ships. 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Crews. 
 
 1863 . 
 
 1869 . 
 
 1870 . 
 
 147 
 144 
 151 
 
 75,842 
 78,192 
 79,282 
 
 2,504 
 2,505 
 2,635 
 
 141 
 141 
 139 
 
 72,965 
 76,879 
 72,203 
 
 2,423 
 2,460 
 2,421 
 
 Italian. 
 
 
 Arrivals. 
 
 Departures. 
 
 Years. 
 
 ■No. of 
 Ships. 
 
 183 
 141 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Crews, 
 
 No. of 
 Ships. 
 
 
 Crews. 
 
 1869 . 
 
 1870 . 
 
 87,232 
 73,821 
 
 2,568 
 1,987 
 
 190 
 135 
 
 90,680 
 70,037 
 
 2,570 
 1,884 
 
216 
 
 TWO TEARS IN PEEU. [OHAP. X. 
 
 Movements op Merchant Shipping in connexion with the 
 Port of Callao during the Tear 1869. 
 
 
 
 Entered. 
 
 
 
 Cleared. 
 
 
 
 Total. 
 
 nogs. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ships 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Crews 
 
 Ships 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Crews 
 
 Ships 
 
 Tonnage. 
 
 Crew, 
 
 Pernvian 
 
 301 
 
 26,442 
 
 1,634 
 
 336 
 
 32,804 
 
 1,720 
 
 636 
 
 69,246 
 
 3,35< 
 
 North American . 
 
 264 
 
 256,697 
 
 4,698 
 
 267 
 
 263,039 
 
 4,601 
 
 631 
 
 624,636 
 
 9,19£ 
 
 English . 
 
 734 
 
 630,890 
 
 20,994 
 
 749 
 
 644,822 
 
 21,255 
 
 1,483 
 
 1,275,712 
 
 42,24< 
 
 French . 
 
 139 
 
 75,768 
 
 2,424 
 
 141 
 
 76,878 
 
 2,460 
 
 280 
 
 152,646 
 
 4,884 
 
 ItaJian 
 
 183 
 
 87,232 
 
 2,568 
 
 190 
 
 90,680 
 
 2,670 
 
 373 
 
 177,912 
 
 6,13i 
 
 German 
 
 38 
 
 24,066 
 
 637 
 
 3« 
 
 26,083 
 
 650 
 
 77 
 
 50,144 
 
 1,28; 
 
 Swedish . 
 
 39 
 
 22,115 
 
 578 
 
 44 
 
 23,496 
 
 626 
 
 83 
 
 45,611 
 
 1,20< 
 
 Norwegian 
 
 65 
 
 33,790 
 
 967 
 
 62 
 
 24,445 
 
 745 
 
 127 
 
 53,235 
 
 1,71s 
 
 Portngnese . 
 
 8 
 
 1,607 
 
 87 
 
 8 
 
 1,435 
 
 86 
 
 16 
 
 3,043 
 
 17£ 
 
 Belgian . 
 
 8 
 
 7,613 
 
 153 
 
 7 
 
 6,220 
 
 121 
 
 15 
 
 13.833 
 
 274 
 
 Danish . 
 
 1 
 
 472 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 472 
 
 IE 
 
 Rossian . 
 
 1 
 
 671 
 
 16 
 
 '"2 
 
 1^205 
 
 '"28 
 
 3 
 
 1,876 
 
 44 
 
 Greek . 
 
 1 
 
 325 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 325 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 656 
 
 23 
 
 Central American . 
 
 10 
 
 3,662 
 
 134 
 
 37 
 
 13,975 
 
 460 
 
 47 
 
 17,537 
 
 694 
 
 Guatemala 
 
 8 
 
 1,759 
 
 77 
 
 3 
 
 740 
 
 27 
 
 11 
 
 2,499 
 
 104 
 
 San Salvador . 
 
 39 
 
 16,649 
 
 634 
 
 27 
 
 11,702 
 
 358 
 
 68 
 
 28,351 
 
 892 
 
 Chilean . 
 
 2 
 
 162 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 162 
 
 12 
 
 Argentine 
 
 1 
 
 688 
 
 16 
 
 "l 
 
 ■"417 
 
 '"15 
 
 2 
 
 1,105 
 
 31 
 
 Sandwich Islands . 
 
 1 
 
 454 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 606 
 
 18 
 
 3 
 
 1,060 
 
 29 
 
 English Steamers . 
 
 239 
 
 163,150 
 
 9,175 
 
 235 
 
 165,769 
 
 8,973 
 
 474 
 
 333,919 
 
 18,148 
 
 
 2,072 
 
 1,349,002 
 
 44,633 
 
 2,140 
 
 1,389,696 
 
 44,729 
 
 4,212 
 
 2,748,648 
 
 89,367 
 
 The amount of coal imported in British vessels 
 in 1869 exceeded 30,000 tons. But in 1870 it 
 amounted to over 36,000. 
 
 The value of cargoes by American ships 
 (United States) imported to Callao in 1869, 
 consisting principally of lumber, railway mate- 
 rial, wheat, ice, cattle, and coal, is estimated 
 at about 2,063,000 dollars (386,812L). The 
 weight of coals by American ships having been 
 17,560 tons. 
 
 Dues on shipping coming to Callao or other 
 ports of Peru are paid for six months. Peruvian 
 ships in the coasting trade, and under 200 tons 
 
CHAP. X.] PEEPONDEEANCE OP BEITISH SHIPS. 217 
 
 burden, pay only every twelve inontlis. Tlie fol- 
 lowing are tlie principal dues : — 
 
 1. Light dues 
 
 2. Tonnage dues . 
 
 3. Port dues — 1st ports 
 
 „ 2nd „ 
 
 •4. Water dues, per ton of water 
 5. Ballast dues — Ballast 
 
 ■| real per ton. 
 
 2 reals „ 
 
 8 doL per sHp. 
 
 5 » jj 
 
 4 reals per ton. 
 1 dol. „ 
 
 The water thus costs 1^ dollar per ton at ships' 
 tackles. The ballast 2 Bohvian dollars per ton on 
 board. 
 
 Consignee of ship is paid 
 
 . 150 doL = 221. 10s 
 
 Commission on freight . 
 
 5 per cent. 
 
 Eecovery of freight . . . . 
 
 2i „ 
 
 Purchase of return produce 
 
 21 „ 
 
 Payment of duties and disbursements 
 
 1 „ 
 
 Goods may be bonded for five years on condition 
 of paying only storage. 
 
 The ratio of increase in the Callao trade maybe 
 estimated by the fact, that the revenue of the 
 Custom-house at the port for the single month 
 of May of the year (1871) was 325,089 soles 22 
 centavos — 60,954Z. 3s. 9d. ; whereas in May, 1861, 
 it was 166,027 soles-24 centavos — 31,130Z. Is. dd., 
 — thus doubling in ten years. 
 
 We likewise find the preponderance of British 
 trade may be assumed by another fact, that there 
 arrived in Callao on one day, the 24th of Septem- 
 ber in this year, 1871, no less than twelve vessels 
 
218 
 
 TWO TEABS IN TEEU. [CHAP. X. 
 
 from foreign ports, representing the aggregate of 
 8,842 tons, classified as follow : — 
 
 Britisli 
 Swedisli . 
 rrencli 
 American . 
 
 Vessels. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 8 
 
 6,969 
 
 2 
 
 1,904 
 
 1 
 
 442 
 
 1 
 
 327 
 
 9,842 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 The " Painter " at Callao. — Its different appearances. — ^Analysis 
 of water during its existence. — Extent of " Painter " on the 
 whole coast of Peru. — Author's observations of appearances of 
 water. — Frezier's writings ahout Callao. — ^Earthquake of 1746. 
 — Numher of convents and of chapels. — Dreadful effects of 
 earthquake. — On shore at Callao. — Lima and Callao EaUroad. 
 — Club. — The royal fort. — Its great size and extent. — 
 Eight for independence. — Bombardment of Callao by Spanish 
 fleet in 1866. — ^The native hospital in Callao. — ^Eerenue of 
 Benificencia Society. — Hospital tax on shipping. — Silver in 
 Peru. — ^ilisfortunes of 1868. — ^Parish of Santa Eosa. — La 
 Punta. 
 
 Still in the bay of Callao, and previous to our 
 going asliore, there is an interesting peculiarity 
 here, worthy to be noticed — more particularly as I 
 am not aware of its having been discussed by any 
 previous writer on Peru. 
 
 This is called " the Painter " — the palpable 
 evidences of which consist in a changed colour 
 of the sea water (most generally to a muddy 
 white), — an odour most fcBtid, nauseous, and de- 
 pressing, — with the accompaniment of the white 
 paint on ships and boats, inside as well as outside, 
 becoming totally discoloured, and often partially 
 black. Some persons attribute this to conveyance 
 of miasmatous matter from the Andes, by means of 
 
220 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [CHAr. XI. 
 
 tlie river Eimac, "into tlie >sea. Others say it pro- 
 ceeds from tlie decomposition generated in tlie bay 
 by tlie excreta of Callao washed into it. In neither 
 of these, exclusively, have I faith. Because, 
 knowing that the whole coast of Peru is super- 
 volcanic, as well as beUeving that Callao bay has 
 been the crater of an extinct volcano, I am induced 
 to attribute this emanation chiefly to submarine 
 volcanic action, generating sulphuretted hydrogen 
 gas. The vicinity of Callao, too, is generally of 
 that boulder or rubble formation in its upper geo- 
 logical stratum, through which such gas could be 
 ehminated without any difficulty. Although met 
 with at Callao in its most aggravated form, the 
 " Painter " is likewise found along the coast 
 as far as San Jose de Lambayeque, nearly five 
 hundred miles north. From the end of December 
 until April, is the time when this phenomenon 
 mostly exists. 
 
 I have before me an analysis of the sea water of 
 Callao, bottled up during the existence of " the 
 Painter," and having some mud fi-om the bottom of 
 the bay contained therein. This was sent by Mr. 
 Hodges to London, and was there analyzed by 
 Mr. T. Keates, F.C.S., Consulting Chemist to the 
 Metropohtan Boai'd of Works, &c. Mr. Keates 
 reports that, after being allowed to rest, the water 
 poured off proved to be sea water, and that the 
 black mud left, after the water had been decanted, 
 was in a state of active decomposition — large 
 
PLAS OF CCBKENTS BUNNIK& ISIO CAXLAO BAT. 
 
 {Fol. I. p. 218. 
 
CHAP. XI.J OALLAO PAINTEE. 221 
 
 quantities of sulphuretted hydrogen gas, as well 
 as sulphate of ammonia, being given off. The 
 black colour of the mud was found to be owing 
 to the presence of sulphate of iron, which was 
 formed as a result of the decomposition men- 
 tioned. Whilst this latter was due to the sulphur 
 of the organic matter combining with the iron 
 present in the mineral part of the mud, to pro- 
 duce the black sulphide. 
 
 So far it appears to me, the idea of an 
 origin from vegetable malaria coming down 
 from the Andes, or of local causes, be they 
 animal or vegetable, may be considered without 
 foundation. 
 
 1000 parts of the mud dried at 230° Pahr. yielded,— 
 
 "Water 769-6 
 
 Dry mud . 230-4 
 
 1000-0 
 
 100 parts of the dried mud yielded by analysis, — 
 
 Organic matter ...... 10-50 
 
 Chloride of sodium, alkaline sulphates, &c. . 6-43 
 Salts of lime ...... 3-75 
 
 Alumina of oxide of iron . . .16-00 
 
 Silicious matter .... . 63-25 
 
 Loss . -07 
 
 100-00 
 
 Mr. Keates further tells us, " This mud appears 
 to be ordinary river mud, or silt deposited at 
 the mouth of a river, and lying in sea water. 
 
222 TWO TEAES m PERU. [chap. XI. 
 
 It contains a considerable quantity of vegetable 
 and some animal matter, and under tlie micro- 
 scope shows abundance of dialomaceous remains." 
 As perhaps a few of my readers may not 
 understand the penultimate word of this last 
 extract, I shall explain it, according to Sir 
 Charles Lyell's definition : — •" There is a variety 
 of dry deposits in the earth's crust, now proved 
 to have been derived from plants and animals, 
 of which the organic origin was not suspected 
 until of late years, even by naturalists. Great 
 surprise was therefore created by the recent -dis- 
 covery of Professor Bhrenburg, of Berlin, that 
 a certain kind of sihcious stone, called tripoli, 
 was entirely composed of millions of the remains 
 of organic beings, which the Prussian naturahsts 
 refer to microscopic infusoria, but which most 
 others now believe to be plants. They abound in 
 fresh-water lakes and ponds in England, and are 
 termed Dialomacea by those naturalists who beheve 
 in their vegetable origin. The substance alluded 
 to has long been well known in the arts — being 
 used in the form of powder for polishing stones 
 and metals. When examined with a powerful 
 microscope, it is found to consist of silicious plates 
 or pustules, of the above-mentioned Diolamaceas, 
 united together without any visible cement. It is 
 difficult to convey an idea of their minuteness, 
 but it is estimated there are 41,000 (forty- 
 one thousand) milHons in every cubic inch. 
 
CHAP. XI.] ANALYSIS OP PAINTEE. 223 
 
 The remains of these Dialomacese are pure 
 silex." 
 
 Mr. Keates further adds, that when the mud 
 was sent to him, the organic matter which it con- 
 tained was rapidly decomposing. "It was in a 
 very foetid state, and was giving off a large 
 quantity of the gas called sulphuretted hydro- 
 gen." 
 
 No doubt it was. And equally probable that if 
 this mud were examined, at the place from which 
 it was taken, it might have given different results. 
 For it is more than probable that the change of 
 temperature between Callao and London, as well 
 as transition from the natural condition to that of 
 being bottled up, must have caused no trifling 
 chemical reaction in the elements of which it was 
 composed. 
 
 The supposition of its deadly influence from 
 being on the banks of the river, and therefore 
 intermittingly exposed to the influence of a 
 tropical sun on the ebb of tide, leads to erroneous 
 inferences on the part of the analyst. Because the 
 Painter locale is not near the river, and the chief 
 part of the bay of Callao, which is affected by the 
 rise and fall of tide, is covered with rubble, devoid 
 of any mud. 
 
 That the current, sweeping as it does round 
 the bay, and past the mouth of the Rimac, 
 brings from that river a considerable quantity 
 of drift, there can be no doubt. But if these were 
 
224 TWO TBAES IN PEEU. [OHAP. XI. 
 
 the causes of " tlie Painter," wliy should we have 
 it only at intermittent periods — in fact, only for a 
 few months of the year — and then always previous 
 to the heavy rains, which may be supposed 
 to bring down, on the floods, a greater quantity 
 of silt than -when the river is very low ? 
 
 During one of several periods that I was enjoy- 
 ing the hospitahty of Mr. Hodges, and when " the 
 Painter " was in fall blow (in the month of January 
 last), I took notes of its appearance. Mr. Hodges' 
 residence is on the edge of the bay, in what was 
 formerly the " ice-house," when this part of Peru 
 was suppHed with that article from Wehham 
 Lake, and before the monopoly for its arti- 
 ficial manufacture was given to a company in 
 Lima. This house is built of wood, and is 
 situated on the very shore of Callao bay, 
 between the stores of the Pacific Steam Navi- 
 gation Company and the railway station to 
 Lima. In the course of a few days I ob- 
 served the water of the bay under four different 
 aspects. 
 
 1st. Ochre-brown, with somewhat of a reddish 
 tinge, and opaque. This, when examined under 
 the microscope, showed animalculee of a spheroid 
 or circular form, and of like colour to the water. 
 In twelve hours after it was — 
 
 2nd. Of a dark green, and still thick, aspect, in 
 which by the microscope was visible another class 
 of animalculaa of an hour-glass form, round and 
 
CHAP. xr. j VARIETIES OF OOLOTJE IN THE PAINTER. 225 
 
 broad at each end, but contracted in the centre. 
 Although there was but one drop of water under 
 the glass, a large number of these jumped about. 
 
 3rd. The next morning, or in fourteen to sixteen 
 hours afterwards, the water was a muddyish 
 white. This time the smell in the harbour was 
 most pungently nauseating. It is considered 
 the "true Painter" period when white paint 
 becomes black, and headaches are general with 
 everybody under its influence. No animalculse 
 were visible through the microscope in this 
 state of affairs. From the second to the third 
 condition, I may add that in the intervening 
 period we had a shock of earthquake at about 
 five o'clock in the morning, and during the 
 occurrence of which, it may be conjectured, 
 submarine volcanic action destroyed all the 
 animal life of these insects seen .the two days 
 previously. 
 
 4th. This is the ordinary water of Oallao bay, 
 different in its colour in proportion as it is near 
 to the drainage outlets of the town, or to the 
 neighbourhood of the current, which flows through 
 the Boqueron Channel. This latter meets the 
 larger sea-stream coming from the south round 
 the north end of San Lorenzo Island, and which 
 makes a back-water detour of the bay, as shown 
 by the sketch in previous chapter. 
 
 The present site of Callao, it may scarcely be 
 necessary to add, is some distance to the north of 
 
 VOL. I. Q 
 
226 TWO TEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XI. 
 
 the city wHch was destroyed by the terrible earth- 
 quake of 1746. That occurred thirty-three years 
 after the visit of M. Frezier, Ordinary Engineer to 
 the King of France. Frezier' s description of the 
 coasts of what he styles " Chily and Perou" was 
 pubhshed in Paris in 1716 — 157 years ago — and 
 gives a very lucid account of every place at which 
 he touched. 
 
 Senor Paz Soldan' teUs us, that at half-past 
 ten o'clock on the night of the 28th October in 
 the fore-mentioned year, the earthquake came 
 on : "It could not be weU described or conceived 
 as a simple shaking of the earth, but as a 
 convulsive throe, by which the heaving up of the 
 sea-bottom in one place, and its depression in 
 another, caused an enormous wave to sweep over 
 the town, and at one gulp to destroy 5,000 
 inhabitants." 
 
 Frezier, thirty-three years previous, set down 
 the number of inhabitants at 400 families, 
 although they themselves claimed 600. 
 
 The old city of OaUao was of triangular form, 
 and was surrounded by walls, with bastions and 
 buttresses, built up when the Marquis of Mansera 
 was Yiceroy. These fortifications cost 369,000 
 dollars. In 1671 the Viceroy, Count of Leinus, 
 declared it a city, and in 1694 it had an escellent 
 mole, constructed of stone from the island of 
 San Lorenzo. 
 
 ' " La Geograiia del Peru,'' p. 555. 
 
CHAP. XI.J 
 
 ANCIENT OALLAO. 
 
 227 
 
 
 m 
 
 ml 
 
 But tlie earthquake 
 did not spare these more 
 than any of the reli- 
 gious buildings. At the 
 time of its occurrence, 
 together with the Vice- 
 roy's palace and the 
 Governor's house, both 
 near the sea, were the 
 six chapels of La Matriz 
 (the parish chapel), San 
 Angus tin, the Jesuits', 
 Santo Domingo, San 
 Francisco, San Juan de 
 Dios, and La Merced. 
 There were also five 
 convents of religious 
 "orders — the Domini- 
 cans, the Augustins, the 
 Cordeleros, the Fathers 
 of Mercy, the Jesuits, 
 and the Brothers of the 
 Hospital of San Juan 
 de Dios (Saint John 
 of God). Besides these, 
 each of the thirteen 
 bastions of the walls 
 was named after a 
 saint, as — 1, Saint Mi- 
 chael ; 2, Saint Ignacio ; 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 TWO TEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XI. 
 
 3, Holy Cross ; 4, Saint Catherine ; 6, Saint 
 James ; 6, Saint John the Baptist ; 7, Saint 
 Dominick ; 8, Saint Philip ; 9, Saint Louis ; 10, 
 Saint Lawrence; 11, Saint Francis; 12, Saint 
 Peter ; 13, Saint Anthony — all being, of course, 
 in the Spanish tongue, from which I have trans- 
 lated them. 
 
 In less than three minutes the whole town of 
 CaUao was either swallowed up, swept away, or 
 demohshed into ruins. Only a few hundreds 
 of the total population are said to have 
 escaped — some of these reported as washed 
 over to the island of San Lorenzo — an inci- 
 dent in which I have no faith. The Jesuit 
 priest, Father Lozano, wrote an account of it 
 to the Reverend Bruno Morales, of the same 
 company, residing in Madrid, giving a description 
 of the dreadful catastrophe. From this, as well 
 as the relation given by Senor Paz Soldan, it 
 would appear to have been precisely the same 
 kind of thing, which took place in 1868, as 
 ah'eady described, at Arica. For there was a 
 like sweeping in, and sweeping out, of a Cordil- 
 lera of volcanic wave. Out of all the monks in 
 the six convents, there was only one saved — the 
 Padre Arispe, of San Aug-ustin. How lie managed 
 to get off we are not told. The Viceroy at the 
 time was the Coude de Supeninda, and his heroic 
 exertions to assuage the miseries of the dreadful 
 calamity deserve immortal record. 
 
CHAP. XI.] CALLAO AND LIMA EAILWAi'. 229 
 
 Going ashore at Oallao, we find ourselves in 
 the middle of one of the most bustling of 
 places at the mole. The odor of this at once 
 strikes us as nothing of an improvement on 
 " the Painter " which we have left in the 
 bay. The examination of our luggage at the 
 " Resguardo " is conducted with great courtesy. 
 We land, not at the old mole, but at the 
 new stairs of Mr. Hodges' great work; and 
 the first large building which attracts the at- 
 tention of strangers is the spacious edifice of the 
 railway station. Besides the ofl&ces for tickets 
 and stores for luggage and cargo, it has an 
 up-stairs series of apartments, in the most 
 extensive of which we find the club of Callao. 
 This was organized in 1867, and is the club of 
 the English-speaking community here. It has a 
 spacious verandah, overlooking the sea, excellent 
 and well-suppUed reading-room, with two billiard 
 tables. 
 
 The first sod of this railway was turned on 
 the 30th of June, 1850, by Senor Don Ramon 
 Castilla, at the period President of the Republic ; 
 and it was opened for traffic on the 5th of 
 April, 1851, although not completely finished till 
 1852. The distance hence to Lima is only seven 
 miles. The Callao station is 12 feet, the Bella 
 Yista station 48 feet, and the Lima station 
 485 feet above the level of the sea. The origi- 
 nal contractor was a native Peruvian, Senor 
 
230 TWO TEAES IN PBETJ. [CHAP. XI. 
 
 Don Pedro Candamo, from wtose hands it passed 
 into those of an English company. 
 
 The Lima and Chorillos Railway was laid down 
 by the same company, and was opened for traffic in 
 November, 1858. This is nine miles long from 
 Lima to Chorillos, which latter may be said to be the 
 Brighton of the Peruvian capital. Some few years 
 ago, Chorillos was a very small fishing village, but 
 now it is a most fashionable bathing-place, and 
 owes its first rise to General Castilla, who was the 
 owner of much property there. The Chorillos 
 station is 137 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 The affairs of this company, of which the head- 
 quarters exist in London, are excellently conducted 
 by a local manager, and two consulting directors 
 here. The manager, Mr. "William Stirling, to 
 whom I am indebted for these details, has likewise 
 furnished me with the following statistics of the 
 railway operations : — 
 
CHAP. XI.j INCREASE OF EAILWAT TBAFFIC. 
 
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232 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [OHAP. XI. 
 
 Of its traffic in 1872 Mr. Stirling lias supplied 
 me -with tlie annexed : — 
 
 IfoTB OP Traffic fob the Nine Months ending 
 
 September 30, 1872. 
 
 Number of passengers carried on the Callao line . 1,004,961 
 
 ChoriUos line . 461,310 
 
 Total . . . 1,466,271 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 Eeoeipts from passengers and luggage . . 100,936 14 
 
 Number of tons of goods carried, 99,989. 
 
 Eeceipts from goods traffic .... 58,369 19 
 
 „ other sources .... 3,-569 9 
 
 Total receipts . £162,876 2 
 
 There are two barracks in Callao, and one at 
 Bella Vista, wtich latter is about a mile outside of 
 town, on tlie line of railway to Lima. Adjoining 
 the Custom-house is the military and naval Inten- 
 dencia. Together with the three Catholic chapels 
 of the town, there is likewise a Protestant church 
 (having a school attached), of which the manager of 
 the Pacific Company for the time being, the British 
 Consul for the time being in Callao, and the United 
 States' Consul for the time being in the same place, 
 are trustees. It was originally built, and the 
 ground on which the building was raised, bought 
 by funds raised through Mr. Petrie, and friends, in 
 1864. Part of material for building was likewise 
 given for it by Mr. "Wheelwright. 
 
 The chm-ch is vested in the foregoing trustees 
 
CH/VP. XI. J BOMBAEDMENT OF CALLAO. 233 
 
 for the use of the English-speaking Protestant 
 community in Callao. These trustees were ap- 
 pointed in 1869, when the title-deeds were made 
 out in their names. 
 
 At Bella Vista is a foreigners' burial-ground, 
 originally enclosed by the British Government 
 in 1830, but now under management of a com- 
 mittee. 
 
 !5here is not much that may be deemed worthy 
 of remark in the architecture of Callao — its chief 
 public building being the old fortress, Real Felipe, 
 erected some time between 1770 and 1776, nearly 
 thirty years after the great earthquake. It is said 
 to have cost the Spanish Government thirty mil- 
 lions of dollars — a sum considered so large that the 
 king of the period, Philip III. of Spain, ironically 
 ordered a telescope to be carried to the top of his 
 palace in Madrid, that he might have a look at the 
 fortifications. Covering nearly twenty acres of 
 ground, it has very thick walls, and parapets about 
 twenty feet high on the sea side. It contains two 
 round towers — ^the Torreon de la Patria, and the 
 Torreon de San Fernando. Between it and the sea 
 is the smaller tower of Santa Rosa, and these are 
 accredited, at the time of Earl Dundonald's exploit 
 in the capture of the "Esmeralda," to have 
 mounted a total of 300 guns. In the great fight 
 for Independence, the fortress stood out for 
 eighteen months when besieged by Bolivar and 
 the patriots of the time, — only surrendering 
 
234 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XT. 
 
 from sheer starvation on tHe 22nd of January, 
 1826. 
 
 The last famous battle in which it was engaged 
 was the celebrated bombardment of Callao by a 
 Spanish fleet, under General Castro Mendez Nunez, 
 on the 2nd of May, 1866. That squadron came up 
 here fresh from its unopposed battering at Val- 
 paraiso; and after allowing six days for neutral 
 vessels to leave, opened its fire on the town. 
 From a description of the event by Mr. WiUiani 
 De Courcey, of Callao, who was an eye-witness 
 (pubhshed in the South Pacific Times), '^ we are told 
 that the Spanish commander-in-chief addressed a 
 circular to the Diplomatic Corps in Lima, " allow- 
 ing four days for the foreign inhabitants to move 
 themselves and effects, as he would positively 
 raze the port and city of CaUao." Whilst such 
 was his assurance, that he publicly declared, 
 and it was as positively asserted, that he invited 
 the captain of a French man-of-wai% then in 
 the harbour, to take a glass of wine at the 
 Governor's house before he would burn it down. 
 Although the Spanish fleet did not fire the first 
 shot until thirteen minutes afber twelve o'clock, 
 at two minutes past five in the evening, thev had 
 all got such a peppering, as obliged them to beat 
 a retreat. The squadron consisted of thirteen 
 
 ° The Euglisli iie^vspaper of Callao, and one of the best con- 
 dncted journals in Sonth America. Edited and owned by ilr 
 Isaac Lawton, from Jamaica. 
 
CHAP, XI.] HOSPITALS W CALLAO. 235 
 
 sail, six of them being first-class frigates, with an 
 aggregate compliment of 275 guns, and 500 super- 
 numeraries brought out by three transports. The 
 2nd of May is, therefore, the great hoHday for 
 Callao and Lima. 
 
 In Callao we have also the Prefect's house, a 
 theatre, and the hospital of Guadaloupe, down 
 near the Oroya railway station. The market- 
 place is nearly half a mile outside the centre 
 of the town, and on the inside of it (for the 
 railway runs by the opposite) is erected a cross 
 to celebrate where one of the ships in the great 
 earthquake of 1746 was driven up. Near to 
 the sea, at the northern end, we find a sugar 
 . manufactory belonging to Mr. Ramos, of Lima. 
 This is quite close to the Oroya railway station, 
 at the other side of which is the Guadaloupe 
 Hospital. 
 
 This institution is under the management of the 
 Beneficencia Society of Callao ; but its chief re- 
 venue is derived fi'om a tax levied on all shipping 
 that comes into the port, under a decree of the 
 National Government, dated 27th October, 1868. 
 
 In a sanitary point of view, the hospital could 
 not be in a worse position. It is admirably 
 managed by the good sisters of charity under the 
 Beneficencia Society. It has a ward, called the 
 St. George's ward, devoted to sick sailors speak- 
 ino- English ; and the Board of Trade has appointed 
 Dr. T. A. Roe, formerly of- the Royal Navy, as 
 
236 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XI. 
 
 medical inspector, to watcli the condition of our 
 sick seamen. Joined to liis assiduity and atten- 
 tion, Doctor Roe has effected several useful 
 reforms in the establishment. 
 
 The decree already mentioned provides : — 
 "Art. 3. An established hospital revenue -will be 
 formed in favour of this charitable society (the 
 Beneficencia), obliging all foreign and national 
 sailing-vessels and steamers to pay the sum of four 
 cents, of a sole every six months, for each and every 
 ton register, and that the said society wiU be 
 obliged to assist and receive all seamen from all 
 foreign and national aaihng-vessels and steamers 
 free of all charges whatsoever." 
 
 I have ascertained by inquiries that English and 
 North American trading ships, with the Pacific 
 Company's steamers, have paid since the date of 
 passing that Act as follow : — 
 
 British Ships. 
 
 From January to December, 1869 
 „ January to December, 1870 
 „ January to September, 1871 
 
 From January to December, 1869 
 „ January to December, 1870 
 „ January to September, 1871 
 
 Soles, c. £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 8,174 6 = 1,541 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 9,240 16 1,742 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 4,401 20 829 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 21,816 12 .£4,113 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 ompaxy's Steamebs. 
 
 
 
 Soles, c. £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 800 = 150 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 1,200 226 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 1,400 263 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 3,400 £641 10 
 
CHAP. XI.] BENBFIOENCIA EEVBNUE. 237 
 
 North American Vessels. 
 
 Soles, c. & s. d. 
 
 From January to December, 1869 . 5,077 68= 957 6 11 
 
 „ January to December, 1870 . 5,658 20 1,066 16 1 
 
 „ January to September, 1871 . 3,140 56 592 2 5 
 
 13,876 44 X2,616 5 5 
 
 These calculations into currency, made at the ave- 
 rage rate of exchange for the three years, of 4ih\d. 
 per sole, constitute a sum total of 7,370Z. 10s. ^d. 
 
 This does not, however, include payments of 
 hospital tax by German, French, ItaUan, Spanish, 
 Chilian, Peruvian, or ships of any other nation. 
 And these by the lowest estimate of a rough guess 
 at their numerical proportion, may be calculated 
 at 3,000Z. during the time indicated; in fact, 
 showing a contribution of about 3,000L per 
 annum from all the shipping to the hospital. 
 By their own account the Beneficencia Society 
 has a rent of 77,279 soles — (at 4iM,. per sole, 
 14r,489Z. 16s. ?>d.) — of which they consider the 
 ships pay 16,800 soles (3,150^.), the rest being 
 derived from land and household property. 
 
 The Beneficencia expended the last year, 1870, 
 67,871 soles (12,726Z. 16s. M.), leaving a surplus 
 of 9,408 soles (1,764L). 
 
 Throughout all its history, the name of Peru 
 has been associated with unbounded mineral 
 wealth; and the tales that are told of the im- 
 mense hoardings up of silver and gold turned out, 
 since the conquest of the Incas by Pizarro in the 
 
238 TWO YEARS IN PEEU. [cHAP. XF. 
 
 sixteentli century, seem almost fabulous. Mines 
 have been, and still are, worked with varying 
 success. But I have no doubt that an enormous 
 impetus will be given to this class of enterprise, 
 more particularly in the copper and silver mines, 
 as soon as the railways of Mr. Meiggs shall be 
 completed. These metals are found at many 
 places between the coast lines and the centre 
 range of Cordilleras; — notably so of silver at 
 Cerro del Pasco on the Oroya line, — at Salto and 
 Gualquayoque behind Trujillo, — and at Ohihete* 
 interior to Pacasmayo. 
 
 On the island of San Lorenzo, at the south 
 and west of Callao Bay, there has been lately 
 erected an establishment for smelting ores. This 
 is managed by Colonel Harris, who represents 
 the only English mining company now working 
 in Peru. Amongst the projects submitted to 
 President Pardo, that were brought before the 
 extraordinary session of Congress, called together 
 on the 9 th of November, 1872 — the anniversary 
 of the battle of Ayacucho — was one for the esta- 
 blishment of a school of mines. 
 
 Going southward from the railway station 
 along a plank road, we see evidences of what 
 is being done by the foreign element in Peru. 
 To the right, this plankiug leads down to 
 Chucuito, and half-way to the Punta.^ These 
 
 ' The Pimta is now becoming the fashionable bathing-place 
 for the Glialacos (as the Callao residenters are stj-led). 
 
CHAP, XI.] TO THE PUNTA OF CALLAO. 239 
 
 are in the parish of Santa Rosa, wliicli is 
 extra-parocliial to that of Callao. "We pass for 
 the first few hundred yards between the rails 
 and the old fortress ; then skirt the house 
 where Mr. Hodges dwells. Next to that we 
 come to the stores of the Pacific Steam Navi- 
 gation Company ; and if we turn downwards, 
 skirt the fortress of Santa Rosa, to the com- 
 fortable dwelling of Mr. Petrie, attached to the 
 company's works. Following towards the point, 
 we ari'ive at the new stores, erected by Messrs. 
 Dockendorfi" and Co., and near the extremity 
 to the extensive concrete works of Mr. Hodges. 
 At the Punta we find four hotels— the Grand 
 Hotel of Senor Rivero beiag the lai-gest. Prom this 
 returning to the back of Santa Rosa chapel on the 
 Lima and Callao railroad, there is now a locomo- 
 tive engine with carriages running, so as to corre- 
 spond with the trains from Lima. If we take 
 this train either up or down, we can have a view 
 of the extensive foundries of Messrs. De Courcev, 
 and Clarke ; of the spacious iron yards of 
 Messrs. Beansire and Dartnell ; of the steam 
 flour-mill at Chucuito ; of the railway works ; of 
 the gas establishment; and of a new line of 
 store-houses being built on the embankment 
 behind the old fortress, — in front of the Pacific 
 Ocean. 
 
 During the year 1868, Callao was visited with 
 a triad of misfortunes. On the same evening that 
 
240 TWO YEAES IN PBEU. [OHAP. XI. 
 
 the great volcanic wave swept over Arica, came a 
 similar one, though less in volume, to menace 
 Callao. Accompanied as it was by terrific earth- 
 shakings, many of the inhabitants fled to Lima 
 and Bella Vista. Nearly at the same period, a 
 large portion of Constitution Street, close to 
 La Matriz, or the parish church, was consumed by 
 fire ; and, to crown all, appeared the yellow fever, 
 which swept away in a short time nearly two 
 thousand of the inhabitants. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Hygiene of Callao. — Senor Paz Soldan's calculations of increase 
 of population. — ^Mortality at the native hospitaL — ^Excess of 
 deaths over hirths in the town. — Census of population. — 
 Chinese immigration. — Mortality of Chiiiese immigrants in 
 the middle passage during the last decade. — Mortalitj- of 
 same in 1871 and 1872. — ^Law of Congress prohihiting 
 Chinese immigration in 1856. — Its reauthorization hy Con- 
 gress in 1861.- — Particulars of contracts. — Mission of Peru^'ian 
 embassy to China. — ^Existing convention between Peru and 
 Portugal touching emigration from Macao. — Coolie immi- 
 gration to the "West Indies. — Sir G. Young's paper on the 
 subject. — Difference of mortaUty in Guiana and Callao. — 
 Speculators in the Chinese immigration. — National Company 
 of Navigation. — Its intended extensive monopoly. — Decree 
 revoking the concession. — New bUl for import duties. — 
 Monopoly of nitrate of soda. — Guano from Mejillones. — 
 General resume of raUroads in Peru. — Drainage of Callao hy 
 lilr. Clarke. 
 
 I EEGEET that my t-wo years' experience of OaHao 
 do not give me tlie same favourable results of its 
 comparative mortality as I find recorded by Senor 
 Paz Soldan.' In 1860, he tells us, there were 
 729 births, and 365 deaths all through the year. 
 During my time I took careful note of the sta- 
 tistics, furnished by the Beneficencia, or Benevo- 
 lent Society's Registrar, and therefore on data 
 
 ' "Gcografia del Peru," p. 361. 
 VOL. I. ^ 
 
242 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. XII. 
 
 that cannot be disputed. This latter gentleman pub- 
 lished in El Porvenir, the local newspaper, a table 
 of the deaths in connexion with the native ceme- 
 tery of OaUaOj from its inauguration on the 1st of 
 January, 1862, to the 31st of December, 1871. 
 From it I learn that in these ten years there 
 has been a total of 11,561 interments, amongst 
 which are recorded 3,980 cases of fever. 0£ 
 these last-named, the yellow fever year of 1868 
 shows 1,464, whilst during the very last year of 
 all (1871), which was considered a normal year, 
 and whilst I have been commenting on these 
 things in the Oallao press, we have had 623 cases 
 of fever amongst the mortality. Contrary to what 
 happened in the year 1860, noticed by Senor 
 Soldan, from the tables published by the Registrar 
 before mentioned, I find we have had in 1871 : — 
 
 Birtlis at Callao during the year . 1,251 
 Deaths „ „ „ . 1,570 
 
 Thus showing an excess of . . . .319 deaths 
 over the births. The supposition, therefore, that 
 Callao has from 22 to 25,000 inhabitants, appears 
 to me only a wild guess. I take from EL Gom- 
 mercio, Lima paper, of 5th of August, 1871, the 
 following statement with reference to the popula- 
 tion of this city : — 
 
 "The Census of 1859 gave to Callao 18,792 
 inhabitants ; that of 1862, 17,539 ; and that of 
 1866, the last taken, 14,801." 
 
 Therefore, instead of increasing, it would appear 
 
CHAP. Xir.] MORTALITY OP CALLaO. 243 
 
 to be diminisHng in population. Moreover, as 
 the yellow fever committed great havoc in 1868, 
 and no census has been attempted since 1866, I 
 am inclined to think that from 15,000 to 18,000 
 is a very approximate calculation of the present 
 inhabitants of Callao. 
 
 From the " Estadistica del Callao," pubHshed 
 by the " Sociedad de Beneficencia," I learn that 
 there were buried in the native cemetery from 
 1st January to 30th June, 1872, the number 
 of 911, and in that of Bella Vista, 91. Out of 
 this total 278 were cases of fever. That fever is 
 endemic to the town, and proceeds, in the 
 opinion of every one, from the absence of all 
 attempts at hygiene. 
 
 During the six months indicated, the number of 
 births recorded amounts only to 614, whilst the 
 number of deaths reached 1,002 — thus leaving 
 a surplus of 318 deaths over the births in the 
 space of six months. 
 
 Another fact evidencing the decrease of popula- 
 tion in Callao is seen from what I am told in a 
 statistical table, published by the former Captain 
 of the Port, Don Manuel Palacios, in his report to 
 the Minister of War and Marine, to the following 
 effect : — 
 
 " In the same six months just referred to, I there 
 find of the passenger traffic to and from Callao— 
 arrivals, 22,680] departures, 23,238, showing a 
 surplus of 543 who have left the country." 
 
 K 2 
 
244 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [(IHAP. XII. 
 
 Some of the mortality tables of tlie Guadaloupe 
 Hospital, given to me by the Mother Superioress, 
 Madame Stephanie, are before me, and I translate 
 them : — 
 
 In September, 1871, thei-e were 483 patients in 
 the hospital, of whom 53 died in the month, or at 
 the rate of nearly 11 per cent, per month. Of 
 these there were 117 Chilians, who had been work- 
 ing on the Oroya railroad, and of whom 17 died. 
 
 In October, 1871, there were 4j71 patients in 
 the hospital, of whom 42 died — a mortahty of 9 
 per cent. 
 
 In November of the same year there were 445 
 sick in the hospital, of whom 46 died, or 10"33 
 per cent, dm-ing the month. 
 
 The month of December, 1871, shows a total 
 mortality of 39 out of 691 patients, or 5 "66 per 
 cent, during the month. 
 
 In January of this year there were 699 patients, 
 with a total mortahty of 57, or 8 per cent. ; and 
 in February there were 755 in the hospital, Avith 
 a mortality of 48, or 6-33 per cent, in the month.^ 
 
 Connected with the mortality of this hospital, 
 the most important feature is that of the Chinese. 
 
 I have heard from the Mother Superioress of 
 the Sisters of the Native Hospital in Callao, that 
 since the 1st of January to the end of October, 
 
 The foregoing gives an average of 8 per cent., ^vlucll is 
 exactly' what we find recorded of the great plague of London in 
 A.D. 1G03. 
 
CHAP. XII.] MORTALITY OF CHrNESE. 245 
 
 1871, their books show of statistics in reference to 
 the Chinese : — 
 
 Entered the hospital . . . 733 
 
 Came out convalescent . .519 
 
 Died . . . .214 
 
 Thus constituting a death-rate of nearly 30 per 
 cent, in ten months. 
 
 This fatahty amongst the Chinese in tlie 
 hospital is well worthy the attention of all hu- 
 manitarians. In the middle passage from Macao 
 it is not so bad, although even there it has reached 
 in some cases to 31 and 26 per cent, during the 
 voyage of a hundred days. 
 
 It occasionally happens that Chinese mutiny on 
 the passage, although this is said to be a voluntary 
 emigration. And whilst their engagements are 
 accredited to be from five to eight years, I cannot 
 ascertain that a shipment of any back to their own 
 country has ever been made. 
 
 The following is worthy of attention, particularly 
 as it is, like all my statistics, derived from official 
 sources : — 
 
 During the year 1870 a few dreadful cases 
 occurred of the burning of ships containing 
 Chinese bound to this port. In normal voyages 
 it may be seen by the ensuing tables that 7 per 
 cent, die on the middle passage, whilst 30 per 
 cent, have departed this year in the native 
 hospital at CallaO. 
 
246 
 
 TWO TEARS IN PEBU. [CHAP. XIJ. 
 
 Immigration 
 
 OF Chinese 
 
 TO Callao. 
 
 
 Year. 
 
 Arrived. 
 
 Sailed from 
 Macao. 
 
 Deaths on 
 Passage. 
 
 1860 . . . . 
 
 1,413 
 
 2,007 
 
 594 
 
 1861 . 
 
 
 1,440 
 
 1,860 
 
 420 
 
 1862 . 
 
 
 1,003 
 
 1,716 
 
 713 
 
 1863 . 
 
 
 1,628 
 
 2,301 
 
 673 
 
 1864 . 
 
 
 6,410 
 
 7,010 
 
 600 
 
 1865 
 
 
 • 4,540 
 
 4,794 
 
 254 
 
 1866 . 
 
 
 5,929 
 
 6,543 
 
 614 
 
 1867 . 
 
 
 2,184 
 
 2,400 
 
 216 
 
 1868 
 
 
 4,266 
 
 4,387 
 
 121 
 
 1869 . 
 
 
 2,291 
 
 2,366 
 
 75 
 
 1870 . 
 
 
 7,544 
 
 7,917 
 43,301 
 
 373 
 
 Totals 
 
 38,648 
 
 4,653 
 
 Deaths yrere 1 per cent, on the voyage from Macao to Callao. 
 
 The Captain of the Port in 1871, Senor Palacios, 
 has furnished me with the following : — 
 
 SuMMAET OP Chinese Immigration from January 1 to 
 September 30, 1871. 
 
 Month. 
 
 Sailed from 
 Macao. 
 
 Arrived. 
 
 Died on 
 
 Passage. 
 
 January. 
 
 February 
 
 March 
 
 April . . . , 
 
 May .... 
 
 June .. 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September 
 
 1,810 
 
 1,650 
 2,244 
 1,119 
 1,777 
 721 
 372 
 
 1,693 
 
 1,579 
 2,128 
 1,064 
 1,648 
 543 
 366 
 
 117 
 
 71 
 116 
 
 65 
 
 129 
 
 178 
 
 6 
 
 Totals 
 
 9,693 
 
 9,021 
 
 672 
 
 Showing an average ^lortality during the voyage of 7 per cent. 
 From our present Captain of the Port, Senor 
 Don Juan A. Moore, I have obtained the folio-wing 
 statistics, showing the immigration of Chinese up 
 to the end of September quarter, 1872, with the 
 mortality on the voyage : — 
 
CHAP. XII.] IMMIQUATION OP CHINESE. 
 
 247 
 
 oo 
 
 K 
 
 a 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 
 <l 
 
 1-3 
 
 o 
 
 C3 
 
 -4 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 E-i 
 
 B 
 o 
 
 o 
 o 
 
 <! 
 
 a 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 o 
 O 
 
 Canevaro. 
 
 Figari. 
 
 Oompania Maritima. 
 
 Ugarte. 
 
 Figari. 
 
 Oompania Maritima. 
 
 Oandamo. 
 
 Oanevaro. 
 
 Dimaly Filgueira. 
 Oompania Maritima. 
 Oanovaro and Co. 
 
 Ugarte. 
 
 Canevaro. 
 
 Oompania Maritima. 
 
 Ugarte. 
 
 Oompania Maritima. 
 
 Figari. 
 
 Oanevaro. 
 
 tt 
 Oompania Maritima. 
 
 
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248 TWO YE Alls IN PERU. [CHAP. XII. 
 
 Few subjects connected witli trade in Peru 
 deserve so much attention from tlie world of 
 humanity as that relating to the Chinese 
 labourers brought hither. On the 6th of March, 
 1856, the immigration of Chinese was prohibited 
 by law of Congress, but another law of the suc- 
 ceeding Congress again authorized it in 1861. 
 To prove any of the horrors of this traffic 
 may be unnecessary, when we find in the table 
 just quoted that in this year, 1872, the French 
 barque " Antares," Captain Natle, arrived in 
 Callao at the end of June last with a cargo of 
 Chinese from Macao. Out of 263 put on board at 
 the port of embarkation, only 181 reached Callao 
 — having had the appalling mortality of 31 per 
 cent, on the voyage. Eighty-two had died. 
 
 The run from Macao to Callao averages from 
 100 to 120 days. 
 
 The mortality in the previous table, therefore, 
 of 82 out of 263, or 31 per cent, in the " Antares," 
 of 105 out of 690, or 15 per cent., in the " America," 
 and of 64 out of 457, or 14 per cent., from the 
 " Rosahn," proves that there is a serious cause for 
 inquiry into this matter. 
 
 The Chinese are contracted for during a service 
 of eight years at the rate of 450 dol., or about 75Z. 
 per man. During their period of service they 
 receive generally 4 soft dol., i. e. 13s. per month 
 for their food supplies, besides getting a pound 
 and a half per day of sweet potatoes, rice, yuca 
 
CHAP. XII.J CONSULAR CONVENTION. 249 
 
 (a kind of arrowroot), and Indian corn — that 
 is to say, a pound and a half of vegetable 
 material. They are not, however, so well fed as 
 this on all the haciendas. 
 
 Since the elevation of Senor Don Manuel Pardo 
 to the Presidency, on the 2nd of August last, his 
 Excellency has made public his intention to send a 
 Plenipotentiary to China, chiefly with the object of 
 establishing the Chinese immigration on a better 
 footing. For several months that mission was 
 arranged to go in the Peruvian war-frigate " Inde- 
 pendjenoia." But the latter plan was set aside, 
 and it was despatched per mail steamer vid San 
 Francisco. Senor Don Manuel A. Garcia y Garcia 
 is the Minister Plenipotentiary appointed, and 
 Senor Don Frederico Elmore, first Secretary of 
 Legation, together with a staff of officials. The 
 mission set out from Callao per mail steamer on 
 the 22nd of December last. 
 
 The existing convention under which Chinese 
 are brought into Peru is one celebrated between 
 the respective High Contracting Parties at Lisbon 
 on the 24th of February, 1872. And that is 
 founded on a previous Treaty, concluded between 
 Peru and Portugal on the 26th of March, 1863, 
 called a " Consular Convention." The text is based 
 on the fact, that the peninsula of Macao, in China, 
 being owned by Portugal, the contingencies of 
 exportation should be carried out in a legal 
 manner, according to the provisions of Portuguese 
 
250 TWO TEARS IN PEEU. [CHAP. XII. 
 
 law. Such, a rule is still observed, although it 
 appears that the Chinese Government has recently 
 forbidden emigration to Peru. 
 
 Every Chinaman coming to Peru is furnished 
 with a copy of contract, printed in Spanish and 
 Chinese, by which he is bound for a period of eight 
 years. Four hundred and fifty dollars are paid by 
 the owner of farm, or employer in other labour, 
 to the contractor, for this service. One item 
 of the terms of agreement provides that " the 
 period of service of eight years being concluded, 
 the Chinaman is free to dispose of his labour— no 
 debt of any kind being sufficient to impede his libe- 
 ration, as any such debt must be recovered by the 
 laws of the country." But there being no security 
 given for his return at the end of service, this 
 liberation rarely proves more than a delusion. 
 
 It may not be out of place to contrast the pre- 
 sent condition of Chinese who come to Peru, in the 
 relations already stated, with what we learn fi'om 
 Sir C Young's paper, read at the last meeting of 
 the British Association at Brighton, under the 
 title of " Is the Asiatic emigration to the West 
 Indies Ukely to be a permanent fact in modern 
 geography ? " 
 
 Of the mortality in this latter immigration Sir 
 George says : — 
 
 " It would be asked if it were possible that the 
 results of the introduction of Africans during the 
 time of the slave-trade could be matched by the 
 
OHAP. XII.] WEST INDIAN IMMIGRATION. 251 
 
 immigration of Asiatic volunteers, brought from a 
 greater distance by Government ships, under a 
 system hable to be stopped at the first outcry of 
 philanthropists, and so closely guarded that, as we 
 learn from the last report of the Emigration Com- 
 missioners, the mortahty during the middle passage 
 had been reduced to below 20 in thel,000, — a better 
 rate than obtained in many parts of England." 
 
 The mortality of 2 per cent, in the passage 
 contrasts vividly with that I am obliged to record 
 of Chinese immigration to Peru. 
 
 Again, Sir George speaks of mortality in 
 Guiana : — 
 
 " The mortality for the first ten years was 
 frightful; the Commissioners lately in Guiana 
 estimated that it reached 10 per cent, per annum." 
 
 As antithesis to this, I must point out that in 
 my last year's report on the trade of Callao,^ I had 
 to show a mortality to the enormous rate of 30 
 per cent, in the ten months to end of October, 
 amongst the Chinese at the hospital of Guadaloupe 
 in this city. 
 
 Sir George continues : — 
 
 " In 1851, one- third of the whole number intro- 
 duced within six years was already dead. The 
 improved regulations of this passage, however, and 
 the very great efibrts of the planters and Colonial 
 
 ' Published by the Foreign Officej amongst Commercial 
 Eeports from her ^Majesty's Consuls. Presented by order of 
 her Majesty to both houses of Parliament. 
 
. 252 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [cHAP. XII. 
 
 Governments liad brought down the mortality to a 
 mere fraction of the former death-rate. In Guiana 
 and Trinidad it fluctuated between 3 and 4 per cent. 
 " An important Government department was 
 charged with the supervision of all matters, in 
 which the interests of the coolies were afiected. A 
 special labour law, on which great pains had been 
 spent, was administered by stipendiary magis- 
 trates, in order to secure them work at fair wages. 
 Medical aid was provided gratuitously, and no 
 estate was without its hospital. After 20 years of 
 this improved, and still improving, system, we 
 found in Guiana that, of a population of 200,000, 
 one-fourth, or 49,000, were immigrants from Asia, 
 while 6,000 more were children of those immi- 
 grants, called Creole coolies in the colony. In 
 Trinidad, with a population of 100,000, there were 
 24,600 immigrants, and 6,500 Creole coolies, — 
 making 130,000 in all. The female sex was as 
 yet sadly deficient in numbers. The Colonial 
 Office insisted ofi a minimum of 40 to every 100 
 males who were recruited, and would increase the 
 proportion but for the extreme difficulty of making 
 up the quota, without resorting to women of a 
 character likely to neutralize all the benefits 
 intended by their introduction. At the present 
 time there were in Guiana women in the propor- 
 tion of 42' 21 to every hundred males, showino- 
 tbat the equaliziug influence of the rising genera- 
 tion was beginning to tell." 
 
CHAE. XII.] CHINESE MOETALITY ON VOYAGE. 253 
 
 After instituting an interesting comparison of 
 the relative working qualities of tte coolies and 
 negroes, Sir George concluded by saying, that 
 lie was inclined, though, not vsdthout hesitation, to 
 stake his credit, as an observer, upon the per- 
 manent establishment there of the negro, with a 
 reservation, however, in favour of the Chinaman, 
 if the Chinese immigration were resumed. 
 
 To the statement already mentioned as given 
 to me by the Superioress of the Gruadaloupe 
 Hospital in Calao, referring to the mortahty of 
 Chinese in the last year, I regret having no more 
 favourable one for the present. These two items 
 of 7 to 8 per cent, mortality on. the voyage, with 
 30 per cent, in the hospital during 10 months, are 
 matters pre-eminently calling for investigation. 
 
 In the Lima newspaper, Bl Pueblo, of the 20th 
 December, I find the following : — 
 
 " From 20th January of present year up to date, 
 32 ships, solely engaged in the Chinese traffic, 
 have arrived at Callao. They brought a sum total 
 of 18,380 Chinese coolies. Having taken on 
 board 14,494 at Macao, there died on the voyage 
 1,114, or 7 and ^V P^r cent. In the year 1871, 
 the Chiaese immigration had amounted in its 
 totality to 11,812 individuals — this year being an 
 excess on the previous one of 1,478." 
 
 By a reference to my Trade Report of last year, 
 it will be seen that 7 per cent, was the mortality 
 on the middle passage. 
 
264 TWO YEAKS IN PERU. [cHAP. XII. 
 
 " Thus," continues El Pueblo, " we have had 
 in the past and present year brought to Peru 
 25,192 colonists, representing for the speculators 
 in human flesh a capital of 11,714,280 dols., equal 
 to 1,757,142/., if we calculate the worth of each 
 colonist at the sum of 465 dols., or 691. 15s., which 
 is the minimum value." 
 
 The term "colonist," in this case, appears to 
 jingle with the expression of "speculators in 
 human flesh," — more especially as there is no 
 provision in the Peruvian system of immigration 
 for the female element. 
 
 In the month of March last (1872) a Decree was 
 attempted to be passed, — was approved of by the 
 late President Balta, and sanctioned by the Tinance 
 ]\Iinister of the time, Senor Don Felipe Masias. 
 Although the document bears date the 9th of 
 March, it only appeared iu a Lima paper, La 
 F atria, on the 1st of June, when the origuiator of 
 the scheme, Don Rufino Pompeyo Echenique, was 
 on his way to England, via United States, by the 
 steamer that started two days before publication, 
 to procure the necessary capital for the work. 
 
 The absurdity of trying to crush all existing 
 maritime interests, by such an extensive monopoly, 
 caused universal indignation, and it was re- 
 scinded by the same minister, Don Felipe Masias, 
 a few days after its publication. The following 
 is the official announcement o£ the affair, under 
 The title of " National Company of Navigation :" — 
 
CHAP. XII.J MONOPOLY OP NAVIGATION. 255 
 
 Lima, Marcli 9, 1872. 
 
 In consequence of the present proposal of Don 
 Rufino Pompeyo Ectenique, and having to view 
 the following considerations, viz. : — 
 
 That guano, saltpetre, and other products of 
 raw material exported to foreign ports necessitate 
 the employment of a considerable amount of ship- 
 ping ; that the investment of capital in a company, 
 for the piu-pose of shipping, to the extent of 
 100,000 tons, would be advantageous and in every 
 way profitably secure ; that besides these advan- 
 tages, assured to the country by the investment of 
 so much capital, its industry would be protected 
 or favoured by guaranteed cheap freights ; that 
 these provisions, which the company and the 
 country -would derive from the existence of a 
 mercantile marine of the extent indicated, will be 
 better understood, as the transports would offer, 
 at reasonable prices, to carry all articles necessary 
 to extend the national products ; that by means 
 of vessels, constructed with specific conditions, to 
 provide convenient or cheap passages, a consider- 
 able immigration would be facihtated, at low rates, 
 to families abroad ; that the plant, indispensable 
 for the railways in construction, and for the works 
 of h"rigation that have to be undertaken, the pos- 
 session of a mercantile marine would provide the 
 cheap transport of the productions of the country 
 and of the woi'kmen needed to cultivate the ground 
 to be ii-rigated ; that in view of these great results, 
 
256 TWO YEARS IN PEED. [cHAP. XII. 
 
 it is indispensable to procure the services of such 
 shipping, it cannot possibly be denied that the 
 concession solicited is a means of protection ; that 
 the grant of these means wiU invite no prejudice 
 of any kind in the State, but, on the contrary, 
 adjust effective economy, and, what is indispen- 
 sable, fix certain conditions "which will insure the 
 standing of the projected company : 
 
 It is accorded to Don Rufino Pompeyo 
 Echenique, as a means of protection for the im- 
 mediate establishment of the company proposed 
 "with the following title, " Compania Nacional de 
 Navegacion " (National Na"pigation Company), the 
 concessions f ollo"wing : — 
 
 1st. The Government guarantees to the com- 
 pany, for a term not exceeding nine years, that it 
 "will be solely in the ships of the com'pany, to 
 the extent of its power to comply, that the 
 Government "will transport all articles of whatever 
 class, for account of the Government, that have 
 to be brought from foreign parts, and from points 
 that are under the sphere of action of the company. 
 
 2nd. Equal guarantee is conceded, and for 
 the same time, for as much as it is possible for the 
 company to transport, of all products, articles, 
 and objects of national dominion, or property of 
 whatever kind or nature they may be. 
 
 3rd. Whether or not the actual contracts for 
 providing coal have terminated, the company will 
 furnish coal, for the said term of nine years, all 
 
CHAP. XII.] EXCLTTSrVB USE CF SHIPPING. 257 
 
 that the Government requires, at the strictly cost 
 price, embarked in Europe, charging the corre- 
 sponding freight, insurance, commission, and the 
 usual charges customary, in a commercial point of 
 view ; the Government making the respective pay- 
 ments on receipt of the articles. 
 
 4th. The Government wiU impose the condi- 
 tions on these parties in charge of the construc- 
 tion of railways and public works, on account of 
 the State, and on those who may rent or hire such 
 railways or properties from the State, that they use 
 only the shipping of the company, under pain of 
 indemnification to the same, in transporting every 
 kind of material required, and to buy or purchase 
 from the company, on the terms stipulated in the 
 above clauses, all the coal necessary for the use of 
 those railways or properties which the company 
 are able to furnish. 
 
 5th. The nine years which are referred to in 
 the first and second clauses will commence to go 
 into operation from the moment one or other of 
 the ships of the company receives the fli-st cargo, 
 and commence to comply with the stipulations, 
 as regards the Government, and the contractors 
 of the State from the time when the company 
 have one or other of their sailing-vessels in sea- 
 going condition. 
 
 6th. The ships of the company will be, at all 
 times, free of every inconvenience of a fiscal 
 character in all the ports and creeks of Peru. 
 
 VOL. I. s 
 
258 TWO YEAES IN PBKU. [CHAP. XH. 
 
 7tli. The company undertakes not to cliarge, 
 under any motive or any pretext whatever (in 
 cases -where it refers to the clauses 1, 2, 3, and 4), 
 more freight or commissions than those current in 
 the place or places where, and at the time when, 
 they receive the cargo. 
 
 8th. The company are obHged to provide 
 accommodation, if needed, in every one of their 
 ships for fifty emigrants, allowing the Government 
 to proportion the charge for the passage, and 
 healthy and abundant food, of each emigrant 2s. 
 daily for adults, and for boys from two to thirteen 
 years of age Is. The days will be calculated from 
 that on which the ship saUs from the port of 
 departure till the day when she arrives at the port 
 of destination. If, for whatever motive, the voy- 
 age is delayed, they wiU not recover, on any pre- 
 text whatever, more than 121. sterling for an adult 
 and 6?. for each boy. 
 
 9th. The company obliges itself to place its 
 management in such a manner that each ship will, 
 at least, make three round voyages every two 
 years. If six months pass, counting from the 
 date of the document of this concession, it will be 
 considered made without effect. 
 
 Passed to the Direction of Administration, in order 
 that they may extend the corresponding document. 
 [Rubric of his Excellency the President] 
 (Signed) Felipe Masias. 
 
 This was abolished by the following documents. 
 
CHAP. XII.] ABOLITION OP DBOEBE. 259 
 
 wMcli came to light a few days after the first was 
 published : — 
 
 By Supreme Decree of the 9th of March last, 
 issued by the Minister of Finance, a privilege for 
 nine years has been granted to Don Rufino 
 Eohenique to establish a navigation company, 
 with the exclusive right to transport all produce, 
 objects, and articles, of every description, being 
 national property, as weU as those belonging to 
 raih-oad companies and public works, which in 
 future may be estabHshed, and to sell to the 
 Government, and to the companies referred to the 
 coal they may require. 
 
 Such a concession is an infraction of the 
 constitution, because it restrains the Hberty 
 of industry. It is equally contrary to the law of 
 privileges, as it does not refer to an invention, nor 
 the introduction of a new industry ; it also violates 
 the laws in force as to contracts with the State ; 
 and, finally, it involves an usurpation of faculties of 
 Congress, as far as it exonerates the company 
 referred to from the payment of all fiscal dues. 
 
 In consequence, the undersigned deputy pro- 
 poses : — 
 
 That the first representation be made to the 
 Government to derogate the Supreme Decree of 
 9th March, as it is an infraction of the constitution 
 and the laws. 
 
 (Signed) Eioaedo W. Bspinosa. 
 
 Lima, June 3, 1872. 
 
 s 2 
 
260 TWO TEARS IN PBBU. [cHAP. XII. 
 
 Deceeb revoking tlie Concessions granted to Don 
 Rufino P. Bclienique : — 
 
 Lima, June 4, 1872. 
 
 On reconsideration of tlie petition of Don Rufino 
 Pompeyo Echenique, in wliicli lie asks tlie con- 
 cession of certain privileges for the establist- 
 ment of a National Navigation Company, the 
 Decree of 9tlL March granting them is hereby 
 revoked, and consequently the corresponding 
 document extended by the Notary Public is to be 
 cancelled. 
 
 Signed by the President and the Minister of 
 Pinance. 
 
 So that the very persons who sanctioned the 
 affair (the late President and Minister), were the 
 same who squashed it in three days after its 
 publication.* 
 
 The followiiig is substance of a bill on imports 
 which has been introduced by the Minister of the 
 Interior, in pursuance of the recommendation of 
 President Pardo, at the opening of Congress, on 
 the 2ud of August last, and which came into law 
 on the 1st of April, 1872. 
 
 Article 1 . — Ten per cent, duty to be charged on 
 
 ■* Since my return to England I have seen account of a 
 domand made hj Senor Echenique for what he calls "com- 
 pensation" regarding his losses in this speculation. The 
 Government of President Pardo, however, at once crushed his 
 claims, by denj-ing the possibility of such a monopoly to he 
 sanctioned by the State. 
 
OHAP. XII.] LAW FOE IMPOETS. 261 
 
 merchandise, now duty free. The following articles 
 only are free from all duties : — Anchors and kedges 
 of iron, tar, quicksilver, live or stuffed animals, 
 iron buoys, pitch, fire-engines with utensils, bank- 
 notes, iron-chains, iron anchor stocks, ships, ex- 
 tincteurs, dried fi-uits (except cocoas), waste, felt 
 for ships, shackles for anchors, instruments and 
 tools when introduced by mechanics, but according 
 to the law ; printing-presses and utensils, scientific 
 instruments when introduced by professors ; ma- 
 chinery of all kinds (except sewing machines), 
 money, gold in powder or paste, presses and articles 
 for printing on stone, plants or herbs, silver in 
 paste or manufactured, newspapers, produce of fish 
 caught by national ships, ships' masts, seeds, 
 printers' inks, vegetables, ornaments, such as vases 
 or other articles of good taste (but subject to the 
 law) ; articles for use in national hospitals (subject 
 to law) ; articles for public companies, subject to 
 agreement made between the contractor and the 
 Government ; personal efiects (according to law) ; 
 national produce which may return to the country, 
 haying been proved to be such ; articles belonging 
 to the steward's department of ships, and for con- 
 . sumption on board, excepting such as may be re- 
 shipped or transhipped with this object ; provision 
 and merchandise imported by vrhaling vessels to 
 the value of 400 soles, as per tariff ; straw (toquilla 
 and macora) and coal. 
 
 Article 2. — Five per cent, more will be charged 
 
262 
 
 TWO TEARS IN PERU. [OHAP. XII. 
 
 on the value of goods in all the Custom-houses in 
 the Republic. 
 
 Article 3. — Special duties are charged on the 
 following : — 
 
 
 
 Cnrrency. 
 
 Sterling. 
 
 
 Soles 
 
 . c. 
 
 £ 
 
 s. d. 
 
 Aguardiente of all In'nds 
 
 Per dozen 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 15 9 
 
 „ in jars or tar 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 rels to 30 degrees 
 
 Per gallon 
 
 1 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 4 6 
 
 Beer and Cider 
 
 Per dozen 
 
 • 1 
 
 75 
 
 
 
 6 6f 
 
 „ „ in barrels 
 
 . Per gallon 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 7 lOi 
 
 Aguardiente, ia jars oi 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 
 
 barrels, over 30 degs. 
 
 » 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 7 10* 
 
 Liquors or sweet -wines 
 
 Per dozen 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 13 14 
 
 Champagne and wines o 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 
 
 tbat class (excepting 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 
 
 Asti) . 
 
 )) 
 
 5 
 
 60 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 "Wines of Borgofia, Brus 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sels, Cbeprie, Sherry 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Madeira, Port, an( 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 Vermuth , 
 
 3, 
 
 3 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 13 li 
 
 The above in barrels 
 
 Per gallon 
 
 1 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 3 9 
 
 Wiues of other kinds 
 
 Per dozen 
 
 2 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 7 6 
 
 j> jf 
 
 Per gallon 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 
 
 1 104 
 
 Cigars of all kinds . 
 
 Per lb. 
 
 
 
 88 
 
 
 
 3 3i 
 
 Tobacco of all kinds 
 
 Per 100 lbs. 
 
 28 
 
 00 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 Cards (playing) 
 
 Per gross 
 
 4 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 15 9 
 
 Coffee 
 
 Per 100 lbs. 
 
 7 
 
 00 
 
 1 
 
 6 3 
 
 Cocoa . 
 
 J3 
 
 4 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 Cheese . 
 
 ;j 
 
 4 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 TaUow . 
 
 3J 
 
 3 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 11 3 
 
 Common Soap 
 
 J3 
 
 6 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 18 .9 
 
 Candles of all kinds 
 
 Per lb. 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 Biscuits . 
 
 Per 100 lbs. 
 
 2 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 7 6 
 
 Butter 
 
 J) 
 
 12 
 
 50 
 
 2 
 
 6 lOi 
 
 Tea 
 
 Per lb. 
 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 Hi 
 
 Sugar of all kinds 
 
 Per 100 lbs. 
 
 4 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 Flour . 
 
 J) 
 
 1 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 6 9 
 
 Wheat 
 
 Per 135 lbs. 
 
 1 
 
 SO 
 
 
 
 6 9 
 
 Article 4. — The Government to give to the 
 
CHAP. XII.J INCBEASE OF TRADE. 263 
 
 Chamber immediately a report in detail of the 
 results produced by the changes now made in 
 duties to be charged by the Custom-house, so 
 that Congress may consider what alteration may 
 be necessary. 
 
 For the two months after this law came into 
 operation, I find, by South Pacific Times of June 
 28th, the following proof, in spite of this enact- 
 ment, of the steady progress of trade in 
 Callao : — 
 
 The receipts of the Callao Custom-house for the 
 last two months have been — 
 
 In April . . . . S. 366,135 91 
 In May .... 403,086 66 
 
 Total S. 769,224 57 
 
 The revenue from this source, during the same 
 months last year, was — 
 
 In April . . . . S. 316,294 05 
 In May .... 371,330 46 
 
 Total S. 687,624 51 
 
 It will thus be seen that, notwithstanding the 
 activity in March, to avoid the payment of the 
 augmentation of 25 per cent, in the import dues, 
 this has been sufficient to produce an increase of 
 S. 81,600 06 as compared with the two months' 
 same of the preceding year. Another law re- 
 lating to the taxing of exports is also under 
 
264 TWO TBAES IN PEEU. [cHAP. XII. 
 
 the consideration of the Government. It pro- 
 vides — 
 
 Article 1. — ^In the exportation of saltpetre, "will 
 be charged 50 per cent, on the difference between 
 the cost price and the market value, which is to be 
 decided by a commission to be appointed. 
 
 Article 2. — In the exportation of the raw mate- 
 rial (caliche), a duty of twenty-five cents, will be 
 recovered on every 100 pounds. 
 
 Article 3. — The Government to adopt any means 
 that may suit to collect this duty. 
 
 Article 4. — This law to commence and take efiiect 
 six months after its publication. 
 
 The latter law, however, in respect to Article 1 
 of 50 per cent, on the profits, has been altered by , 
 establishing the production of the nitrate of soda, 
 to aGrOvernment monopoly — the State paying two 
 soles and 40 c. (or about twelve shillings) per 
 quintal (100 lbs.) to the producers, and reserving 
 to itself the privilege of fixing a market price 
 to purchasers of the article. For the Peruvian 
 Government knows, now that the whole realizable 
 amount of guano cannot be calculated at over 
 3,000,000 of tons, the nitrate of soda to make 
 artificial manures must become more valuable in 
 the Em'opean markets. 
 
 An addition to this has been made in proposing 
 to have the nitrate sold at the markets of Iquique 
 and Lima.' 
 ' My readers maj', however, see by referring back to my 
 
CHAP. XII.J RAILWAYS IN PERU. 
 
 265 
 
 From tte port of Mejillones, whicli is bet-ween 
 Chile and Peru, the Pacij&c Company's steamer 
 " Penguin" took a load of guano to England in 
 the month of November. 
 
 As nothing can be more intimately connected 
 with the progress of Peru than its railways, I 
 append herewith translation of part of a paper 
 read last year by Mr. Hohagan, C.E., before 
 the Royal Geographical Society of Berlin. These 
 have appeared in the memoirs of the Society, but 
 some errors, typographical and general, have been 
 corrected for me by Mr. John Meiggs, brother of 
 the great contractor : — 
 
 The following Government railroads are now in 
 course of construction, or have been completed by 
 Mr. Henry Meiggs : — 
 
 X fl.Tn p.a of Railroads. 
 
 Callao and Oroya, now about half 
 finished ..... 
 
 Mollendo and Areqnipa — work- 
 ing — gives GoTemment 3 per 
 cent, nntil 1872, after that date 
 4 per cent. 
 
 Areqnipa to Puno, in. constmc 
 tion, about half finished . 
 
 Puno to Cuzoo, just begun . 
 
 Chimbote to Huaraz, just begun 
 
 Ho to Moquegua, will be finished 
 this year .... 
 
 Paoasmayo, Guadalupe, and Ma: 
 dalena 
 
 Total . 
 
 Lengtll 
 
 in 
 English 
 ililes. 
 
 130 
 
 107 
 
 222 
 230 
 
 172 
 
 63 
 83 
 
 1,007 
 
 Cost in 
 
 Peruvian 
 
 Soles. 
 
 Soles. 
 27,600,000 
 
 12,000,000 
 
 32,000,000 
 25,000,000 
 24,000,000 
 
 6,700,000 
 
 27,100,000 
 
 134,400,000 
 
 Equivalent 
 in Pounds 
 Sterling. 
 
 Will be 
 finisted 
 
 in the 
 
 Year 
 
 £ 
 5,175,000 
 
 2,250,000 
 
 6,000,000 
 4,687,500 
 4,500,000 
 
 1,256,250 
 
 1,331,250 
 
 25,200,000 
 
 1874 
 
 1870 
 
 1873 
 
 1874 
 1876 
 
 1872 
 
 1873 
 
 Chapter on Saltpetre at Iquique, that this monopoly is being 
 done away witli. 
 
266 
 
 TWO TEARS IN PBEXJ. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 xn. 
 
 According to this, the kilometer costs Grovem- 
 ment 108,536 soles 80 c, or 2b,350Z. 10s. ; and it 
 is certain that Mr. Meiggs is the contractor of 
 highest rank known. 
 
 Besides these, the following State railroads are 
 to be constructed by private individuals : — 
 
 Names of Railroads. 
 
 Lengtli 
 
 in 
 English 
 Miles. 
 
 Tacua to Bolivia — part Govem- 
 ment has in it, 80,000 soles or 
 15,0001 
 
 Lima to Haacho, finished np to 
 Chancay ..... 
 
 Pisco to lea, finished . 
 
 Paita to Puira, in consfcrtiction . 
 
 Lima to Pisco, not yet begun . . 
 
 Huacho to Sayan, in construction 
 
 Total .... 
 
 108 
 
 48 
 
 63 
 
 144 
 
 36 
 
 488J 
 
 Cost in 
 
 Peruvian 
 
 Soles. 
 
 Soles. 
 
 6,000,000 
 
 4,000,000 
 1,455,000 
 1,800,000 
 10,000,000 
 2,400,000 
 
 25,655,000 
 
 Equivalent 
 in Founds 
 Sterling. 
 
 wmte 
 
 finished 
 in the 
 Year 
 
 1,125,000 
 
 750,000 
 
 372,812 10 
 
 337,500 
 
 1,875,000 
 
 450,000 
 
 4,810,312 10 
 
 1876 
 
 Projected Rail-r'ays to be Commenced soon. 
 
 Names of Railroads. 
 
 Chancay to Cerro de Pasco — 
 private . . . . . 
 Oroya to Chanchamayo^irState . 
 Tacna to Puno — State 
 Salaveriy to Ascope — State 
 Oroya, Jauja, and Ayacucho — 
 
 State 
 
 Oroya and Cerro de Pasco — State 
 Trujillo to Eten — private . 
 Huacho to Lambayeque — private 
 
 Total 
 
 English 
 Miles. 
 
 120 
 
 80 
 
 301 
 
 40 
 
 240 
 
 40 
 
 148 
 
 560 
 
 1,529 
 
 Cost In 
 
 Peruvian 
 
 Soles. 
 
 Soles. 
 Not known 
 to outsiders. 
 
 210,000,000 
 
 Equivalent 
 in Pounds 
 Sterling. 
 
 39,375,000 
 
CHAP. XII.] 
 
 WATEE-WOEKS. 
 
 267 
 
 Private TJNDBKTAKnrGS — ^Eatlwats abotjt Half riNisHBD. 
 
 Names of Bailroads. 
 
 liength 
 
 Ckistiu ■ 
 
 PeruTian 
 
 Soles. 
 
 Bqnivalent 
 in Pounds 
 Sterling. 
 
 Cerro de Pasco to Pasco (sUver 
 mines 
 
 Iquique to the Noria (saltpetre 
 district) 
 
 Pisaqna to Sal de Obispo . 
 
 Eten to Ferrenafe 
 
 IS 
 
 37 
 35 
 
 28 
 
 Boles. 
 Not known. 
 
 i> 
 J) 
 
 £, 
 
 Total .... 
 
 115 
 
 " 
 
 — 
 
 Eailways alrbadt Working. — English Companies. 
 
 Names of HaUroads. 
 
 Length 
 
 in 
 English 
 Mfles. 
 
 Cost in 
 Pernvian 
 
 Soles. 
 
 Equivalent 
 in Pounds 
 Sterling. 
 
 Arica to Tacna, with 6 per cent. 
 
 seonrity 
 
 Calico to Lima and Lima to 
 
 Chorrilloa .... 
 
 39J 
 15J 
 
 Soles. 
 I 6,000,000 
 
 £ 
 1,125,000 
 
 Total .... 
 
 55 
 
 6,000,000 
 
 1,125,000 
 
 With these data to calculate upon, we arrive at 
 the result that there are now in Peru, lines traced 
 with an aggregate length of 2,979 English miles, 
 and a total value of 382,250,000 soles, or 
 71,671,876?., so that to every ten square nules, and 
 for each thousand inhabitants, there is one English 
 mile of hne. 
 
 To the amount above stated ought to be added 
 the sum of 85,800,000 soles, or 16,087,500L spent 
 chiefly upon water-works, besides the immense 
 sums required for the ramifications of some rail- 
 
268 TWO TEAES IN PERU. [cHAP. XII. 
 
 ways, for whicli Mr. Meiggs has also contracted, 
 and whicli cannot be quoted at less than 
 125,000,000 soles, or 23,437,600Z. 
 
 The details of mortality in CaUao already sub- 
 mitted by me having demonstrated a sad state of 
 hygiene, I am happy in being able to add that, to 
 afford some remedy for this state of things, there 
 has been drawn up, in the month of September of 
 this year, by Mr. Thomas Charles Clarke, C.E., a 
 scheme for the sewerage of Callao. The tempera- 
 ture of Callao being rarely below 66 degrees Fah- 
 renheit, or above 11 , it ought to be one of the 
 healthiest towns in the world — more particularly 
 as it has almost always the pure wind blowing into 
 it from the South Pacific. 
 
 The details I have already submitted wiU show 
 how such a scheme is needed. Mr. Clarke's plan 
 is to consist of — 1st, a main outlet for sewerage ; 
 2nd, pumping station for lifting the sewage; 3rd, 
 line of main sewage; 4th, branch sewage; 6th, 
 flushing and ventilation of sewers. To this suc- 
 ceeds the estimated cost of eighteen miles of sewers 
 with junctions, forty inspection and ventilation 
 shafts, twenty-five flushing chambers, and forty 
 gullies vnth gratings — the whole amounting, in 
 Mr. Clarke's estimate, to 494,958 soles, or 
 92,748L 7s. U. 
 
 The station for pumping (to be worked by a 
 windmill, with an auxiliary steam-engine) is fixed 
 at the Callao side of river Rimac. By these 
 
CHAP. Xn.] PLAN OP SBWBES. 269 
 
 machines, calculating a 'provision for 30,000 in- 
 habitants (which I believe to be an over-estimate), 
 and allowing 26 gallons per day for each person, 
 or a total of 760,000 gallons of water daily, no 
 doubt that a new era of health would dawn in 
 Callao. Mr. Clarke has been the supplier of a 
 similar system to this, and with perfect success, 
 to the cities of Oxford and Portsmouth in England. 
 The plan has been received fevourably by the muni- 
 cipality of CaUao at its meetings. But the only 
 action taken in the matter up to the time of my 
 departure from Callao was an advertisement from 
 the municipality for plans for the construction 
 of sewers through the town, as well as for a general 
 slaughter-house These were to be received at the 
 municipaHty up to the 31st of January, 1873, and a 
 premium of 2,000 soles (or about 400Z.) to be given 
 for the design of sewers, and 200 soles (or 40Z.) for 
 that of a slaughter-house — both plans to become 
 property of the municipality. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 From CaUao ttrougli the Huatica valley. — Bella Vista. — 
 Viceroy's palace. — Custom-house stores. — Spasmodic efforts to 
 make sutuibaa residences. — IlTiins of old city of Huatica. — 
 Euias of castles, temples, and fortresses. — Senor Cerdan's 
 pamphlet ahout 'water-supply. — Tracking the Pando burial- 
 mound (huaca) hy Mr. Steer. — Measurements converging to 
 multiples of 12. — Extraordinary dimensions. — Made up of 
 small sun-dried bricks. — Masses dislodged by earthquake.^K'o 
 notice of these things by Eivero. — Huaca de la Campana 
 (Marengo, orArambolu). — ^Legend about this mound. — Charac- 
 teristic features of "architecture. — Filled up with earth. — 
 Fortress entitled San Miguel (HuatiQee) . — Adjacent temple. — 
 Wedge-shaped walls. — Fortresses to protect old city and 
 burial-ground. — Ancient temple of Delphic Oracle Eimac. 
 
 Thebe are few portions of Peru "wMch. I have 
 visited, tliat seem to me more wortliy of a search- 
 ing exploration than the valley of Huatica, whereto 
 I am about to introduce my readers. What I 
 mean by exploration is such a one as that recently 
 conducted by Mr. Smith for the Daily Telegraph, 
 in Assyria, amongst the ruins of Babylonia and 
 Mosul, as well as what has been done by Dr. 
 Henry Schliemann in Priam's Troy. In one of 
 the letters of Mr. Smith,' describing his visit to 
 Babylon, he says, " The first mounds I exa- 
 
 ' Vide Daily Telegrajih, June 25th, 1873. 
 
PLAN OF HUATICA VALtET. 
 
 [I'ol. I. p. 271. 
 
CHAP. Xin.J BELLA VISTA. 271 
 
 mined were those of the ruins called now 
 Babil, but sometimes MiyeUiba; it is the most 
 northern set of mounds. G?hese ruins consist 
 of one vast oblong mound, surrounded by some 
 smaller mounds, and the ruins of a wall which 
 had once enclosed its structure." Quite similar 
 to what we j&nd in the Huatica valley, as will 
 appear by the accompanying illustrations. 
 
 From Callao our way lies through Bella Yista, 
 situated about a mile to the east, and on the road 
 to Lima. It is the only stopping-station of the 
 train between these two cities on the upward 
 journey ; but, on the downward, aU the trains halt 
 at the back of Santa Eosa church, whereby 
 easier communication can be had with many parts 
 of Callao, and from where the train starts for "the 
 Point" (LaPunta). 
 
 Bella Yista was founded in 1747 — the year after 
 the great earthquake — by the then Viceroy, Conde 
 de Superunda. It certainly deserves the name, on 
 account of the pretty view that can be had from the 
 top of what was the Viceroy's palace in times gone 
 by. This is now the property of a Lima gentle- 
 man, Don Pedro Bezanillo. It is situated in front 
 of a very handsome and capacious plaza, or square, 
 having a circular flower parterre, surrounded with 
 iron railings, and ornamented with a fountain. 
 Behind Don Pedro's house in the parallel square 
 is what formerly was the chief barracks in the epoch 
 of the Spaniards; but, shortly before my leaving the 
 
272 TWO YEAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. XIII. 
 
 country, it was converted into a lying-in hospital. 
 Besides the passenger line of rails to Bella Vista, 
 there is a trackfor train communication between the 
 Custom-house and its com stores, wTiich form a 
 considerable building here. In the same square 
 as the old barracks we find a Government iron 
 foundry, in which are done all the iron works 
 necessary for keeping the Pemivian navy in order. 
 A considerable portion of property in this town 
 belongs to Senor Don Gregorio Eeal, who was 
 Alcalde (or mayor) of the MunicipaHty during 
 the first year of my residence here ; and more of 
 it is the property of Senor Gregorio Garcia, who 
 was President of the Beneficencia Society when I 
 left CaUao. Both of these gentlemen deserve credit 
 for trying to make Bella Vista a suburban resi- 
 dence. But although it ought to be healthy from 
 its position at a height of forty-eight feet above 
 Callao, and exposed to the faUest of the pure 
 breezes fi'om the South Pacific, aU the spasmodic 
 attempts to make it appreciated have failed, and its 
 average mortality shows the same rate as Callao. 
 
 Between Callao and Bella Vista, on the side 
 next the sea, is the site of the former race- 
 course with its grand stand, beneath which is 
 a Hquor-shop, under the style of the " Derby 
 Arms," Still nearer to the sea than this runs a 
 line of rails by which Mr. Hodges procures, from 
 a farm called Chacra Alta, material of earth as 
 filling stuff for the piece of ground that is being 
 
CHAP. Xm.J VIGOEOUS DAILY LIFE. 
 
 273 
 
 reclaimed near the old mole of Callao. It is a 
 pleasant feature of daily life amongst the native 
 indolence with which one is encompassed in Peru, 
 to see a train of twenty trucks, making a journey 
 out here of two miles, and doing it ten times in 
 the day, bringing in a daily contribution of about 
 800 tons of material. 
 
 
 RUINED WALLS OF OLD CITY OF HUATICA. 
 
 Near Bella Yista we see also partial tracks of 
 a line of rail that was formerly planned to Mag- 
 dalena, but had to be given up on account of 
 some landed proprietor refusing a concession. 
 
 Our road, now on horseback (in company with 
 my ftiend Senor Don G. Salcedo y Ruiz, from 
 Talambo), is to have a look at the old ruins in 
 the valley of Huatica. So, skirting a very long 
 wall, with loop-holes for muskets, that stretches to 
 
 VOL. I. T 
 
274 
 
 TWO Y£AB,S IN PERU. [cHAP. XIII. 
 
 a mile in length behind the old barracks of the 
 Viceroy, we find ourselves, after half an hour's 
 ride, in the midst of what I beheve to be the ruins 
 of the old city of Huatica. I may add that, in the 
 country all around, extending from the railroad to 
 the sea, and as far as this, not more than four 
 
 
 m ^ '•y.^j^. 
 
 1 - > -f 
 
 
 VIEW FKOM -WEST SIDE OF HUACA OF PANDO. 
 
 miles from Callao, I counted seventeen different 
 huacas (as they are entitled here), but some of 
 wliich have no appearance of being burial-grounds. 
 I therefore set them down as residences, castles, 
 or fortresses. The bui'ial-mounds of various sizes 
 are, however, in the proportions of four to one of 
 the architectural matters. At the farm of Don 
 JManuel Salazar, about a mile out from Bella Vista, 
 the house is built on one of these old mounds ; and 
 quite close to the ruins of the ancient city is a place 
 
CHAP. XIII.] ANCIENT CITY OF HUATICA. 276 
 
 called Las Palmas, at whidi some Italians are 
 located, and where they produce excellent grapes, 
 from which red wine is manufactured. 
 
 Amongst the ruins here it is impossible to make 
 out anything but fragments of walls. These are 
 thick and close, over a space of a few square 
 miles, and are enclosed within a triple wall — so 
 destroyed in many places that it is impossible to 
 follow its outline. In Don Ambrosio Cerdan's ' 
 little book, from which I shall have to quote more 
 hereafter, mention is frequently made of "La 
 ciudad, o Huatica," — the city, or Huatica. Whence 
 it may be supposed that the original water corpora- 
 tion may have had its head-quarters here. The 
 triple wall whereof I have already spoken was 
 pointed out to me by Mr. Steer, who tried to trace 
 it for some distance, but found it very much 
 broken down,— even the foundations in places, pro- 
 bably rooted up to make way for vine plantations. 
 These walls were respectively one yard, two yards, 
 and three yards in thickness, being, in some parts 
 of their relics, from fifteen to twenty feet high. 
 
 To the east of these ruins is the enormous 
 mound called the Huaca of Pando; and to the 
 west, with the distance of about half a mile inter- 
 vening, are the great ruins of fortress which the 
 natives entitle the Huaca de la Campana (the huaca 
 
 " " Tratado General sobre las Aguas que fertilizan los Valles de 
 Lima," por Don Ambrosio Cerdan de ■ Landa, Simon Pontero 
 Oidor de la Antigua Audiencia de este Capital. Lima, 1828. 
 
276 
 
 TWO YEARS IN PBfiU. [cHAP. XIII. 
 
 of the bell). From Mr. Cerdan's book I believe 
 this to have been the great fortress of Arambolu, 
 presided over by the Yunca Chief, Huachipi. 
 
 The huacas of Pando consist of a series of 
 large and small mounds, and — extending over a 
 stretch of ground incalculable without being mea- 
 sured — form a colossal accumulation. The prin- 
 cipal large ones are three in number ; that holding 
 the' Spanish name of La Concha (the shell), with 
 
 VtEW flloM EAST SIDE OF CENTRAL BUACA -OF PANDO. 
 
 a wooden cross on it, and not far from where the 
 train passes nearly every hour between CaUao and 
 Lima, is apparently separated from the others by 
 a modern waU running through. But as there are 
 many smaU cultivated farms about, this may have 
 been a recent division; the distance from it to 
 what I caU the central mound of the Pando group 
 being only about 100 yards. 
 
CHAP. Xni.] H0AOA OF PANDO. 
 
 277 
 
 My first visit to this so impressed me with its 
 importance and magnitude that I made a second 
 in company with Mr. Steer, who tracked and 
 took measurements of it. It was calculated 103 
 to 110 feet in height. At the western side, look- 
 ing towards OaUao, there is a square plateau 
 with an elevation of about 22 to 24 feet, which 
 measured 95 to 96 yards each way — that is, from 
 north to south, and from east to west. At the 
 summit it was tracked 276 to 278 yards long, and 
 95 to 96 yards across. On the top there are eight 
 gradations of declivity, each from one to two yards 
 lower than its neighbour, countiag from west to 
 east, or 'in the direction lengthways. Tracking 
 these in the length of the mound, Mr. Steer found 
 them to measure as nearly as possible, — 
 
 1st plateau 
 
 2nd 
 
 3rd 
 
 4tli 
 
 5th 
 
 6tli 
 
 7th 
 
 8th 
 
 96 to 97 yards. 
 
 „ „ 25 „ to 26 
 
 23 „ 24 „ 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 94 
 
 23 „ 24 
 
 35 „ 36 
 
 „ „ 36 
 
 25 
 
 37 
 
 Total of 278 yards. 
 
 The broken structure of adobes, with the scat- 
 ' tared earth, made the tracking process of mea- 
 surement impracticable to an exact foot or two. 
 
 This was measured over twice, in order to avoid 
 errors. Eeturning back, or rather descending, we 
 found the square plateau first mentioned, at the 
 
278 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. XIII. 
 
 base, to consist of two divisions, one six feet lower 
 tlian the other, but each measuring a perfect 
 square of 47 to 48 yards — the two joined forming, 
 as I mentioned at first, a square of 96 yards. 
 Besides this, and a little forward on the western 
 side, was anotlier square of 47 to 48 yards. 
 
 On the top, returning again, we still find the 
 same symmetry of measurement in the multiples of 
 12." Tracking it in its breadth fi-om north to 
 south, three levels were found in this measure- 
 ment. ■ The first lower down could be made out 
 as 17 t-o 18 yards wide; the second or highest 
 summit, 59 to 60 yards across; and tbe third 
 descent again, 23 to 24 yards. In all these 
 measurements the difficulty increased more and 
 more of footing it correctly. And the same would 
 exist if measuring it by rule, as much on account 
 of the disintegration of its elements from great 
 antiquity, as to what is plainly evident on its 
 western face, of how it has suffered from earth- 
 
 ' Further investigations amongst the prehistoric monuments 
 may bring to light, that amongst these people was possibly- 
 made the first Zodiac, or lunar calendar. in Peru. In Mr. 
 Bollaert's "Antiquities," &c., p. 146, is an illustration with 
 an account of "golden breast-plate or sun," sketched by Mr. 
 Markham when in Lima, and which, although in the possession. 
 of General Echenique of that city, was accredited as found at 
 Cuzco. This Mr. Bollaert supposes to be a lunar calendar or 
 zodiac— the only example he knows of. He describes the twelve 
 months of the Inca Zodiac, as represented on that plate. The 
 pei-sistence of the multiples of twelve in the measurements of 
 nearly all the ruins in the Huatica valley is a very curious fact. 
 
CHAP. XIII.] FINGER-MARKS ON ADOBES. 
 
 279 
 
 quakes. The mound is of tlie truncated pyramidal 
 form, and was calculated by Mr. Steer, allowing 
 100 feet greater bi-eadth at its base, to contain a 
 mass of 14,641,820 cubic feet of material. 
 
 One of not the least extraordinary things con- 
 nected with this great work is the fact of its chief 
 
 --•^ 
 
 .^^^ 
 
 SKETCH TAKEN OF PARTS ON TOP OF CEXTKiL HUACA OF PANDO. 
 
 architectural composition being made up of sun- 
 dried bricks, or adobes — each of these being six 
 inches long, four inches wide, and two inches and a 
 half thick. More wonderful still is it that many of 
 these adobes have the marks of fingers on them, 
 — leading us to believe that they were the labour 
 of human hands. 
 
 But this, as I have already said, does not consti- 
 tute more than one-third of the Pando huaca. 
 Walking down past the southern corner, where the 
 
280 TWO TEARS IN PEEU. [cHAP. XIII. 
 
 adobes are tumbled into a conglomerate mass by 
 some earthquake, we see skulls, with bones of 
 arms and legs, cropping up in many places. The 
 same adobe work is visible throughout, and the 
 whole length of these structures, although made in 
 an ovoid form, may be calculated, in Mr. Steer's 
 opinion as well as my own, to range between seven 
 to eight himdred yards of length. The remainder 
 are all lower than the central one, except that of 
 Concha, which, although quite as high, is only 
 about half the length of the previously named. 
 
 Before passing through the ruins of the old 
 town, and looking back at these colossal mounds, I 
 cannot help wondering what Senor Don Mariano 
 Eduardo Eivero means by a note,* wherein he talks 
 
 SKETCH OF PORTION OF BUACA OF PANDO, SHOWING EFFECTS OF 
 EARTHQUAKE. 
 
 * "Peruvian Antiquities," p. 168. 
 
CHAP. Xin.J HUAOA OF THE BELL. 281 
 
 of "a large number of huacas of different sizes, some 
 being more than fifty yards in length, and about 
 fifteen in height, from Limatambo to Marengo." 
 
 Now, Limatambo is a small farm on the railroad* 
 from Lima to Chorillos, about a few miles outside 
 of tbe capital, and Marengo is the very next farm 
 to the so-called Huaca de Campana, this grand 
 old fortress of Arambolu, which is here within 
 a few hundred yards of us, and certainly not more 
 than four miles outside of Lima. Therefore this 
 author's observation was not very extensive, or he 
 would not have written of these grand works only 
 as measuring " more than fifty yards in length and 
 about fifteen in height." Yet Senor Rivero, by 
 the title-page of his book, was " Director of the 
 National Museum of Lima," as well as " Corre- 
 sponding Member of various Scientific Societies 
 in Europe and America." 
 
 The legend about the name of the Huaca de la 
 Campana (or Huaca of the Bell) is almost too 
 ridiculous to repeat here. But I " tell the tale as 
 'twas told to me" by Mr. Campbell, a Scotch resi- 
 dent at the chacra, or farm, of Desemparados, not 
 far from the town of Magdalena.' This is, that in 
 times gone by, the Devil (of whose interest in Peru- 
 vian affairs we have already had several incidents") 
 
 ' I (jaimot pass by the opportunity of thaiiking Mr. Camptell 
 for his kind help, and hospitality, given to me on several occa- 
 sions of my visits to the Huatica valley. 
 
 ' Vide chap. ix. p. 149, 
 
282 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [CHAP. XIII. 
 
 managed to get liold of a bell, that by some 
 magical means had been brought to the top oftbis 
 old fort. Some of the clergy, desirous of getting it 
 away, had dug round it for the purpose ; but the 
 more they dug, the deeper went down tbe bell, until 
 probably it sunk, in the words of Milton, to that 
 deeper depth which, " deeper than the deepest 
 depths," is found below. 
 
 On my last visit here, with Mr. Steer, I 
 sounded the hole, in which the bell is reputed 
 to have been, with a piece of cord, having a 
 stone attached, and found it to be forty-two feet 
 deep. It is about the compass of an ordinary 
 well. The Capitaz of Senor Osraa, who was with 
 us, at once took the ring out of the bell, by telling 
 me tbat he knew of the hole in question being 
 dug by the father of Senor Osma, and some other 
 gentleman, in quest of treasure. The place where 
 this opening is cut passes through adobones,' or 
 large square masses of mud brick — generally from 
 a yard to a yard and a half in length, and of 
 equal tMckness. These I observe everywhere as a 
 characteristic feature of the architecture, to dis- 
 tinguish the fortresses from the burial-mounds. 
 
 The fortress, mayhap the castle of Arambolu, 
 or Marengo, is a huge structure, calculated by 
 Mr. Steer to be eighty feet high, and found by 
 tracking to be from 148 to 150 yards in measure- 
 
 ' Adobones are large mud bricks — some from one to two 
 yards in thickness, length, and breadth. 
 
CHAP. XIII. J POET OP SAN MIGUEL. 283 
 
 ment — in length as in breadth — thus constituting a 
 perfect square. Some of the adobe walls, a yard 
 and a half in thicknesSj are still quite perfect. That 
 this was not likely to have been a burial-mound 
 may be presumed from its formation. Great large 
 square rooms show their outlines on the top, but 
 all filled up with earth. Who brought this earth 
 here, and with what object was the filling up 
 
 
 JiDINS OF PKINCIPAL HUATICA FOETKESS (aBAMBOLU). 
 
 accomplished? for the work of obhterating aU 
 space in these rooms with loose earth, must have 
 been almost as great as the construction of the 
 building itself. 
 
 About two miles south of the last-named large 
 fort, and in a parallel line with it as regards the 
 sea, we find another similar structure, probably a 
 little more spacious, and with a greater number of 
 apartments, or divisions by walls, on the top of 
 
284 TWO TEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XIII. 
 
 wMcli we can walk now, as it is likewise all filled 
 up with clay. This is called San Miguel. But from 
 
 
 
 SKETCH OF AHAMEOLU TOKTEESS, TAKJSN ON THE TOP. 
 
 Senor Don Ambrosio Cerdan's pamphlet, already 
 noticed, I believe these to be the ruins of the old 
 
 v-,v.. 
 
 KUIXS OF SMALL FOETHESS. 
 
 
CHAP. XIII.] EUINS OF OLD TEMPLE. 
 
 285 
 
 fortress of Huatillee. It is nearly 170 yardg in 
 length by 168 to 170 in breadth, and is one 
 enormous structure of nearly 90 feet high. Indeed, 
 I agree with Mr. Steer, that if the debris of 
 broken adobones at the base could be cleared 
 away, it might be as perfect a quadrilateral as any 
 of the others. That it was as important as 
 Arambolu may be assumed from the fact of the 
 ruins of small forts quite close to it, and those of 
 a little temple, with niches in the walls for idols, 
 about three hundred yards off. 
 
 The whole of these ruins, big fortress, small 
 forts, and temple, were enclosed by high walls of 
 adobones, but aU of wedge-shape form, with the 
 sharp edge upwards. Mr. Steer calculated the 
 
 KUINS OF OLD TEMPLE. 
 
 cubic measurement of the fortress of Arambolu at 
 
286 TWO TEAKS TN PEEU. [CHAP. XIU. 
 
 20,220,840 cubic feet, and tliat of Huatillee at 
 25,650,800 feet. These two buildings were con- 
 structed in tbe same style — ^having traces of 
 terraces, parapets, and bastions, with a large 
 number of rooms and squares — all now filled up 
 with earth. 
 
 From the relati^^e positions of the relics 
 described in this chapter, I come to tte conclusion, 
 that the fortresses of Ai-ambolu and Huatillee were 
 to protect from invaders the city of Huatica, with 
 the burial-mound of Pando behind. Becatise the 
 first-mentioned buildings are nearer to the sea, 
 and more to the south, from whence the enemy 
 might be expected. The fortress of San Miguel, 
 or Huatillee, may be supposed, however, to have a 
 more dii'ect bearing in reference to the old temple 
 of the god Rimac, as it stands in almost a line 
 direct between the latter and the Pacific Ocean. 
 
. CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Fortresses near Senor Osma's quinta. — Fortress of Garmendi. — 
 Village of Magdalena. — Ruins of temple in four groups. — All 
 filled up with clay. — Euins of temple of Eimac. — Immense 
 extent of enclosure. — Turkey buzzards amongst the relics. — 
 Country residence of Viceroy here. — Eaiboad from Lima to 
 Magdalena. — Iconoclastic harharity. — Bad roads. — "Warraco- 
 chee Castle. — Chacra of Conde de San Isidro. — Painting of 
 San Isidro. — Winged Seraph at the plough. — Burial-mound 
 of Pan de Azucar. — Partial exploration of it. — Articles found. 
 — Senor Eaimondy's opinion.- — Measurement of this huaca. — 
 Burial-mound of Juliajia (Ocharan). — Enormous structure. — 
 Multiples of twelve. — Enclosure of half a million square yards, 
 or 117 acres. — Mr. Steer's calculations. — Adohes huUding the 
 mound. — Cave of hermit who was burned by the Inquisition 
 in 1673. — Mira Flores. — Chorillos. — The friar's leap.— The 
 hereditary asses. — Central part of Chorillos. 
 
 About half a mile distant fi'om the Arambolu 
 fortress, along one of the roads from Bella Yista 
 to Magdalena village, we find .the ruins of what 
 Mr. Campbell agrees with me, in beheving to be 
 the remnants of the old temple, dedicated to 
 the god Rimac. This supposition is not founded 
 on anv remarkable architectural features, as on 
 the fact of its being an immense large square- — 
 composed of four huge masses of ruins — one 
 on either side of the square, and another quadri- 
 lateral space in the centre. I belieye this 
 
288 TWO TEARS IN PEEU. [cHAP. XIV. 
 
 to be erroneously considered, as Mr. Campbell 
 tells me it is generally supposed, the place -wliere 
 tbe bermit, Mateo Salado, dwelt for some time. 
 He was burnt by the Inquisition at Lima — in 
 1673, or just 200 years ago. 
 
 KUIXS OF A FOETEESS, OE CASTLE, OX EIGHT SIDE OF SENOE OSMA'S FAEM. 
 
 On many of the old ruins "we often find Half 
 a dozen turkey buzzards — " tbe scavengers of 
 nature," as Swainson calls them — ^which render 
 such material service to Callao and Lima. Here 
 they look rather indolent, as it appears probable 
 they have come out to whet their appetites in the 
 pure air of this valley for the ofial feasts in the 
 streets. Our road passes by the farm of Senor 
 Osma, and in this half-mile of progress there are no 
 less than from six to eight remnants of buildings. 
 Of these Senor Zaballos took two sketches for me. 
 
 There was an old fortress of Garmendi in this 
 
CHAP. XIV'.j FOETEESS OF GAEMBNDI. 289 
 
 valley, which may have been that of San Miguel, 
 for much of our exploration can be no more 
 than conjecture. After leaving behind the farm 
 of Senor Osma, we come to a bifui'cation of the 
 road — that to the right leading down to the village 
 of Magdalena, and by the chacra of some gentle- 
 man from Lima, whose name I forget; that to the 
 
 lUI S OF CiblLE ON LEir SIDE Of SEI.OK OSUA HUM 
 
 left skirts the ruins which we are about to examine. 
 Branching off by Ascona, (another farm,) this latter 
 comes out by the race-course, and the penitentiary 
 after a ride of three miles to the city of Lima. 
 On this last-named road we take a turn round the 
 corner of the old wall, enclosing the temple, to 
 have a sketch of part of these which remain. 
 
 Mr. Steer's measurements of them are as 
 follow : — The most southern of the four masses — 
 
 VOL. I. u 
 
290 
 
 TWO TEAES IN PEEU. [OHAP. XIV. 
 
 that represented in the illustration, — he ascer- 
 tained to be 70 feet high and 153 yards square 
 at the top — ^the cubic contents calculated at 
 
 
 
 
 PAST OF RUIXS OF DOUBLE WiLL AT TESIHLE OF RIMAC. 
 
 14,536,989 feet of material. This is only one, 
 though apparently the largest of those within the 
 enclosure of the big walls. The ruins, tracked by 
 him, measured 660 yards in one direction, and 
 424 yards in the other — thus constituting a quadi'i- 
 lateral enclosure of 237,440 square yards, or about 
 49 square acres. 
 
 On the top of this, as on the fortresses of 
 Arambolu, and San Miguel, were also discernible 
 the outlines of large square rooms, filled up, as all 
 tlie others, even to the topmost height of 70 feet, 
 with earth or clay. 
 
 Hence our road lies through the little village of 
 
CHAP. XIV.] VILLAGE OF MAGDALENA. 291 
 
 Magdalena, wMch has nothing about it to justify 
 Senor Rivero's suspicion of its being erected on 
 the site of the old Huatica city. It is a town 
 with a few hundred inhabitants — all of the/es- 
 tiTia lente class — a chapel, with the Cure's house 
 alongside — ^an aqueduct coming from the Eimac 
 and separating the square from the chapel; one 
 comfortable-looking little house, reported as for- 
 merly occupied by a Viceroy; and an extensive 
 view from a look-out (Miradoi') on the top of 
 the same. Between it and the farm of Mr. 
 Campbell, only about 1,000 yards off, is a con- 
 siderable-sized mound as regards extent, from 
 which bricks have been made, and wherein bodies 
 were found buried. On JMr. Campbell's own farm 
 there are no less than thirteen of such heaps, 
 all of which, when explored, turned out human 
 remains. 
 
 From this we go across the line of the railway 
 now being constructed between Lima and Magda- 
 lena, with the object of making a new sea bathing- 
 place for the former. The valley through which 
 this railway has to pass is certainly one of the pret- 
 tiest, and most picturesque — with all the charms of 
 fresh air, and rural scenery. The new town, or 
 " Pueblo Nuevo," a title which grates upon my 
 ear in the midst of these grand old Indian names, 
 is situated close to the sea, as that of Chorillos 
 is. There is, however, a precipitous bank of 60 
 to 70 feet high to be cut away to make a descent 
 
 u 2 
 
292 
 
 TWO XEARS IN PEEU. [CHAP. XIV, 
 
 to the shore, and the locale on which it is 
 situated is right in front of the Pacific, instead 
 
 VIEW OJF ONE QL'ARTEE OF SUPPOSED TEMPLE OF UIMiC. 
 
 of being sheltered by a protecting rock as 
 ChoriUos is. The line passes through several 
 burial-mounds, and I have been told, on good 
 authority, the working-men at this place — the 
 navvies — have smashed up into small bits several 
 precious mummies that were taken out in their 
 integrity. Such iconoclastic barbarity ought not 
 to be permitted. 
 
 The roads about here are certainly badly in 
 want of a Macadamite reformer. AVherever water 
 manages to lodge itself, by breaking out of an 
 aqueduct, there it is allowed to remain ; and as 
 nearly all the roads outside of Lima, as well as 
 Callao, are knee-deep in fine dust, the conse- 
 quences to travellers may be imagined. 
 
CHAP. XIV.] CHACEA DB COIfDE SAN ISIDRO. 
 
 293 
 
 "We are on horseback, however, and manage to 
 get along gaily, after a good breakfast from our 
 hospitable friend, Mr. Campbell. Turning a corner, 
 by General Echenique's house, we travel along in 
 the centre of ruins. One is^ pointed out to me by 
 
 Mr. Campbell as what is called Warracochee 
 Castle, from which thiere is a mile of a straight 
 road. Then, turning down to the right, we find our- 
 selves amongst another collection of old fortresses, 
 castles, towers, palaces^^— or whatever they may 
 be — and go in for a while to the stately-looking 
 farm-house of Senor Paz Soldan. This is called 
 the Chacra of Conde de San Isidro, after its formei' 
 Spanish owner. It consists of a large house, with 
 a lofty square tower, a great extent of out-houses, 
 a yard, and a spacious garden, with a consider- 
 able-sized orchard of olive-trees on its southern 
 
294 
 
 TWO YEAES IN PEEU. [cHAP. XIV. 
 
 side. In the priucipal sala is a painting of San 
 Isidro, represented in a " My-name-is-Norval ! " 
 style of attitude, and a roll of paper in one hand. 
 He is dressed in a green frock-coat, fastened 
 round the waist by a^. strap, and, if I were not 
 told otherwise, would take him for a French 
 post-boy. On the right side is a pair of oxen 
 ploughing, — driven by a winged seraph, having 
 a garter on one leg, and the other naked. This 
 picture did not at all chime in with the wingless 
 Cholos whom I saw, not driving, but seemingly 
 drawn along by some bullocks that were plough- 
 ing in a neighbouring field. But San Isidro was 
 the patron saint of agriculture. 
 
 SUGAK L0.4J HUACA (SAN ISIDKO). 
 
 In front of Senor Soldan's house, that is to 
 say between it and the Ocean, and at the dis- 
 tance of about a quarter of a mile (as we have 
 a detour to make), is one of the real huacas. 
 
CHAP. XIV. j EXPLORING THE SDGAR-LOAP HUACA. 295 
 
 or burial-mounds, called the Pan do Azucar (or 
 sugar-loaf), fi'om its shape. I had previously 
 been informed by Senor Raimondy of his having 
 made considerable explorations of this mound, 
 and finding nothing in it but bodies of ordinary 
 fishermen, relics of nets, and some inferior 
 specimens of pottery. He likewise "told me 
 that it "was all constructed of layers of loose 
 earth over layers of bodies — whence he in- 
 ferred that all the huacas, or mounds, in the 
 Huatica valley were of a similar nature. On my 
 first visit, Senor Soldan, junior, was kind enough 
 to furnish me with a man, as well as the loan of 
 pickaxe and shovel. Neither of these. proving of 
 any use, I made a second trip, with Mr. Steer and 
 Mr. George Wilson of Callao. We brought with 
 us one of the mule-cars, ki-ndly lent by Mr. Ster- 
 ling, of the Lima Railway Company, two shovels 
 and pickaxes, with some sacks, and had a grand 
 day's exploration. Senor Zabalos, too, was 
 amongst our company, to take sketches. 
 
 This huaca, measured by Mr. Steer, proved to 
 be 66 feet high at its -central point. Its broadest 
 measurement was 80 yards at the base, and its 
 longest 130 to 131 yards in extent. It was a 
 mound very difficult of calculation on account of 
 being so irregular in formation. But Mr. Steer, 
 allowing an average height of 30 feet, estimated 
 it to contain 3,736,800 cubic feet. 
 
 Numbers of skulls, parts of legs, and other 
 frao-ments of humauitv, much of which I believe to 
 
29G 
 
 TWO YEARS IN PEEC. [cHAP. XIV. 
 
 have been the result of Senor Raimondy's exca- 
 vations, lay scattered about. I did not, however, 
 like to take these. So Mr. Steer with pickaxe, 
 and Mr. George Wilson with shovel, commenced 
 to excavate. We did not find what Senor 
 Raimondy described— a layer of loose clay over a 
 layer of bodies. For in several places we came 
 to enclosures made with adobones. Although the 
 generality of these were done in a rough, shapeless 
 manner, as if thework had beenoneof great urgency. 
 Amongst the things turned out, and which I 
 sent with about forty skulls to the Anthropological 
 
 nUACA OF JULIAN'A (OCHARAX), FROM EASTERN SIDE, TAKEN AT A MILE 
 DISTANCE. 
 
 Institute, were a few bits of red and yellow dyed 
 thread, being rehcs of cloth ; a piece of string made 
 of woman's hair, plaited, and about the size of what 
 is generally used for a watch-guard ; some pieces of 
 
CHAP. XIV.J HUACA OF OCHAEaN. 297 
 
 very thick cotton clotli, bits of fish-nets, portions 
 of slings, and two specimens of crockery-ware of 
 excellent material. Tlie place appears to me to 
 be one mass of human bodies ; but the man who 
 came with us from Mr. Soldan's house tells me 
 that in the time of Senor Raimondy's exploration, 
 several specimens of pottery, together with many 
 of silver, were taken out of it. I may add that 
 this mound has got a broken wooden cross on 
 the top, which is not included in the sketch : for 
 in such a spot, and with the carelessness of the 
 people to its influences, I believe the holy symbol 
 to be not far from desecration. 
 
 About a mile farther on, in the direction of 
 Mira Flores, is, however, the largest of the burial- 
 mounds in the Huatica valley. The sketch may 
 not be recognized by those who pass there daily 
 between Lima and Chorillos, for in its actuality 
 there is a small wooden house, constructed to 
 shelter the watchers who guard the vineyards 
 about. As this anomalous structure in such a 
 place always reminded me of the idea of a fly on 
 the back of an elejjhant, I asked Senor Zabalos to 
 omit it in the drawing. 
 
 An old man here told me this was the burying- 
 ffround of Ocharan — a district in which the 
 Chief Capique, named Pacallar, was the govern- 
 ing power long before the time of Guys Mancu. 
 How this Solomon came by his knowledge I 
 cannot tell ; but on looking over the small map of 
 
298 
 
 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XIV, 
 
 the district, published by the Lima, Callao, and 
 Chorillos Railway Company, I see these very 
 names noted down, as connected with locales 
 between Mira Floras and Chorillos. 
 
 This mound presents as it Js approached, the 
 appearance of an imposing and enormous struc- 
 ture. To the eastward are three large squares of 
 rubble stone, probably the burial-places of some of 
 the plehs. The direction of the structure in its 
 length runs from north to south, and the decli- 
 vities of the terraces on the top go from nearly 
 the centre; — the greater number being on the 
 northern side. It is 95 feet of elevation in the 
 highest part. It has an average width of 55 yards 
 on the summit, and a total length of 428 yards. 
 By compass bearings, its track is from S.W. to 
 N.E., audits terraces or esplanades at top measure 
 as follow : — 
 
 1st grade 90 
 
 yards long by 
 
 52 broad. 
 
 2nd^' , 
 
 130 
 
 
 GO „ 
 
 3rd , 
 
 38 
 
 
 52 „ 
 
 4tli , 
 
 45 
 
 
 54 „ 
 
 5tli , 
 
 40 
 
 
 59 ,, 
 
 6tli , 
 
 85 
 
 
 86 „ 
 
 Sum total 428 yards, amltiplied b}' 
 3 
 
 giving 1,284 feet, vrhich may be observed 
 as another multiple of 1 2. 
 
 But the most wonderful part of this mound 
 
 ' This is the highest, as the measurements are reckoned from 
 south- cast to north-west. 
 
CHAP. XIV.] IJIMENSE WALL OF OCHAEAN. 
 
 299 
 
 4 m:r^ 
 
 ^ ^^ 
 
 ^-IB 
 
 ^^ 
 
 'it*-^ 
 
 
 '-'^'•^^ ;^,4a^V ^/-^^^ 
 
 . " >t\ ^ * '^ 'C 50 ./ *?i^'''^ 
 
 . V 
 
 SKtrrcH OF TOP or huaca of juliana (or ochaican). 
 
 
 ■m.. 
 
 X'7 ■' 
 
 
 './ 
 
 SOUTH EA'D or HUACA WITH HERUIT'S CAVE (MATEO SALADOs). 
 
300 TWO YEAES IN PEKU. [cnAP. XTV. 
 
 is, that it has been enclosed by a double wall 
 somewhat similar to that of the Rimac temple, 
 although not quite so thick. This wall, tracked by 
 Mr. Steer, measured 816 yards in length, by 700 
 yards across, as far as the vestiges can be traced, 
 thus giving an area of enclosure of 571,200 square 
 yards, or 117 acres. May I not ask here, what 
 are the great squares mentioned by Mr. Markham ^ 
 at the old Chimoo towoi, near Trujillo, of 276 
 yards oneway, and 160 the other, when compared 
 to this ? 
 
 "Within the enclosure are the square places of 
 rubble stone, already mentioned, which are about 
 eight feet high, and not included in Mr. Steer's 
 calculations. From the top of this mound I brought 
 some sun-dried adobes, larger than those at Pando. 
 
 Mr. Steer further calculated the contents of the 
 mound to be 12,711,600 cubic feet. This is made 
 on the allowance of 60 feet avera2:e to the heio-ht. 
 But it appears to me that, the whole building being 
 of the somewhat truncated pyi'amidal shape of 
 Pando, the calculation is under-estimated.^ 
 
 * "Journal of the Eoyal Geograpliical Society,'' vol. sli. ] S71, 
 p. 322. 
 
 ' At the southern end of this huaca is the cave, on previous 
 page, into which I crawled to find its extent. It goes in to a 
 length of twelve feet, is about three feet across, and the same in 
 lieighfc. I believe this to have been the dwelling of the French- 
 man, of whom Pdvero speaks, " ^Mateo Salado, who passed for 
 a hermit, imtil he was burned in 1573 bj^ the horrible tribunal 
 of the Inquisition." (Op. cit. p. 168.) Xowhere else in this 
 vallej' is there evidence of such a thing. 
 
CHAP. XIV.] THE BRIGHTON OF LIMA. 301 
 
 The Huaca of Ocliaran was used as a vantage 
 ground by the artillery of General Echenique in 
 the war of 1854, when General Castillo fought him 
 here — the army of Ihe latter being stationed near 
 Mira Flores. The fight took place on the 4th of 
 January in the year just mentioned, and next 
 day General Castillo entered Lima triumphant. 
 Bchenique's squadron was stationed at sea in 
 front of this position, and, I am informed, fired right 
 into Mira Flores. But of this I confess myself 
 doubtful, as they would have to shoot over a sea- 
 bank eighty feet high, and the place aimed at 
 behind was invisible to the fleet. 
 
 Between Ocharan and the sea are from fifteen 
 to twenty masses of ruins, hke those ah-eady 
 described. "Whilst from the top of the maia 
 structure we have a view of Lima and the sur- 
 roundings, with the little village of Mira Flores 
 about a mile distant. Towai'ds the west, the Pacific 
 Ocean stretches out with its great glassy sheet, 
 and the southern view is bounded by the bathing 
 place of Chorillos — the Brighton of Lima,— backed 
 by a blufi" high rock called the Morro. This is 
 overtopped by a cross, and from behind it is 
 reputed to have jumped into the sea one of the 
 friars of old in times gone by. Consequently, it 
 has the name of Sal to del Fraile, or Friar's Leap. 
 
 Many illustrations of ChoriUos are given in Dr. 
 Manuel Fuente's handsome work on Lima.* The 
 
 * " Lima ; or, Sketches of the Capital of Peru : Historical, 
 
302 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [cHAP. XIV. 
 
 chiefest features of it are its propinquity to Lima, — 
 being reachable by a nine miles' trip on a railway, 
 as well as its aii-y Malefon, or quay, constructed by 
 General Castillo, to -wliom Chorillos owes most of 
 its present success. Some of the so-called ranchos 
 (or huts) here, especially that of General Pezet, in 
 front of the railway station, resemble palaces more 
 than houses for a bathing-place. The original 
 Indians of Chorillos were fishermen ; and, before 
 the railway, the women used to carry their fish to 
 Lima on a mule's or ass's back. They were like- 
 wise the general messengers of the gentry tem- 
 porarily located here. On St. Peter's Day there is 
 always a grand ceremony and a procession in this 
 town, terminating in a wooden statue of the saint 
 being brought out to sea in a canoe, to inaugurate 
 the fishing season. From the luck of the catch 
 on this occasion is augured the good or bad con- 
 dition of the approaching fishing time. 
 
 Amongst the legends of Chorillos is one con- 
 nected with PahxL Sunday. " The history of Las 
 Burras del Senor " (the Lord's she-asses), says 
 Dr. Fuente,^ " is well known. The first ass 
 employed for the procession, many long years 
 ago, naturally became an object of veneration for 
 
 Statistical, Administrative, Commercial, and Moral." By Manuel 
 a Fuentes, Advocate of tlic Peruvian Tribunals and Member of 
 several learned societies. London : Triibner and Co., CO, Pater- 
 noster Row, 1860. 
 ' Op. cit. p. 107. 
 
CUAP. XIV.] GOOD HYGIENE OF CHOEILLOS. 303 
 
 the Indians, who not only allowed it to remain ?.t 
 liberty and unworked, but also fed it well. Rest 
 and abundant food had made the animal very fat. 
 It had the free range of the village and the neigh- 
 bouring valleys; but on Palm Sunday it spon- 
 taneously went to the church, accompanied by its 
 young one. The race of this sagacious ass is not 
 extinct. Its descendants still perform the same 
 services, and enjoy the same privileges and 
 attentions as their predecessors. It is said that 
 down to the present time there has been no in- 
 stance of the ass having failed in its attendance, 
 or of its having come without a foal." 
 
 The central part of Chorillos would, doubtless, be 
 more agreeable as a sea residence if the streets 
 were a little wider. Here there is a much 
 better regulation of hygiene than either in 
 Oallao or Lima. For the streets are not only 
 well swept, but all the sweepings are burned. 
 
 His Excellency Senor Don Manuel Pardo, the 
 existing President of the Repubhc, occupies in 
 summer time one of the prettiest houses — I cannot 
 call it a raucho — in Chorillos. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Lima. — The "City of the Kings." — JSTumber of authors who have 
 described it. — Foundation by Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror. 
 — Its former wealth. — Streets paved with blocks of silver. — 
 Confounding calculations. — Knocking down of the old walls. 
 • — Boulevards made by Mr. Henry Meiggs. — Want of fire- 
 places in Peruvian houses. — Principal plaza and cathedral of 
 Lima. — Body of Pizarro in the vaults. — Doubts of its genuine- 
 ness. — Place of assassination of Pizarro.- — Palace of the 
 Executive. — Plaza de la Independencia. — Bolivar's statue. — 
 Chambers of senators and deputies. — House of the Inquisition. 
 — University of San iMarcos. — Foundation in a.d. 1576. — 
 Mint in Lima. — Large number of chapels. — English kings 
 doing duty for Incas. — Penitentiary. — Public buildings of 
 Lima. — Its deficient hj'giene. — Dr. Baxley's opinions of the 
 immorality of Lima. — Author's contradiction of it. — Saya y 
 Manta. — Literary ladies in Lima. 
 
 Although Lima is entitled by some of its admirers 
 " the Paris of South America," I am afraid there 
 are not many travellers, who, at the fii'st visit will 
 endorse the simile. By others it is said to be 
 " the heaven of women, purgatory of men, and 
 hell of asses." 
 
 Under the name of " City of the Kings " (Ciu- 
 dad de los Reyes), the Peruvian capital was traced 
 out on the 6th of January — the Epiphany — in 
 A.D. 1535 ; but the actual foundation did not take 
 place tiU the 18th of the same month, when it was 
 done Avith all Spanish pomp and form by the 
 
CHAP. XV. J WEITEES ON LIMA. 305 
 
 conqueror, Senor Don Francisco Pizarro. In all 
 the histories, or descriptions of Peru that I have 
 read, there is not a word said about Pizarro' s 
 having received any opposition from the natives 
 in the valley of the Rimac, nor even any 
 mention of this place in the pages of Garcilasso de 
 la Vega, from the time of its conquest by Pacha- 
 cutec, the Inca, till Pizarro came unopposed to 
 settle down in it. For which reasons, it seems to 
 me, the antiquity of these places described in the 
 vaUey of Huatica may be allowed to be of a far 
 more remote age than they are usually considered. 
 
 Lima has been well described, and by many 
 writers — by the brothers Ulloa, by Frezier, by 
 Stevenson, Markham, BoUaert, Paz Soldan, Dr. 
 Baxley, and by a score of others. But the City of 
 Eangs has had so much of transition about it that 
 what was written of it, even so late as ten years ago, 
 cannot hold good to-day. Moreover, every traveller 
 has his special peculiarities of noticing what strikes 
 his own faculty of perception, so that I may 
 possibly hit upon one or two features of Peruvian 
 characteristics in the capital, that have not been 
 noticed by previous writers. 
 
 During the colonial period Lima had forty-one 
 
 Viceroys — ft-om Pizarro to Pezulla. Of its wealth 
 
 and magnificence in some of these times Frezier' 
 
 tells us that two days after his arrival in the 
 
 ' " Eelatiou of a Voyage from the Sea of tlie South to the 
 Coasts of Chily and of Peron, done during the years 1712, 1713 
 
 VOL. I. X 
 
306 TWO YBAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XV. 
 
 capital he witnessed the celebration of the Festival 
 of San Francisco de Assiz, to Avhich he devotes 
 several pages in describing all its ceremonies. 
 These were flourishing days for the convents, no 
 doubt, as one of them is said to have accumulated 
 350,000 dollars in one year. That wealth was on 
 almost as magnificent a scale, as the neighbouring 
 Andes are in their towering majesty of rock, may 
 be inferred from the following, which I translate : — 
 " As in the cities of Europe carriages are reckoned 
 to calculate magnificence, at Lima they have 4,000 
 caleches, the ordinary carriages of the country, 
 drawn by mules. But to give an idea of the city, 
 it is sufficient to relate that the merchants showed 
 riches at the end of the year 1683, at the entry of 
 the Duke de Palata, when he came to take posses- 
 sion as Viceroy. They paved the extent of the 
 cuadras (160 yards long) of the Merced and 
 Mercaderas (by which he had to enter the Royal 
 Square — the Plaza Principal — where the palace is) 
 with ingots of silver, which weighed on an average 
 200 marcs — were twelve to fifteen inches long, 
 four to five inches wide, and two to three inches 
 thick. This amounted to the worth of 80,000,000 
 (eighty milUon) crowns, or about 32,000,000 
 (thirty-two million) pounds of our money on the 
 basis that it stands at present." 
 
 Without being hypercritical, I may here observe 
 
 and 1714." Published at Paris in 1716, ty Monsieur Frezier, 
 Ordinary Engineer of the King. 
 
CHAP. XV. J SILVER PAVING OF STREETS. 307 
 
 that Mr. Frezier's arithmetic puzzles me. I have 
 copied these figures as they are in his book, one 8 
 and seven O's (expressing 80,000,000) of crowns 
 with 32 and seven O's (representing 32,000,000) of 
 pounds of our money. And whether the pound in 
 this case, as conveyed by the word " hvre," means 
 a French synonym of the 20 franc, or of an Eng- 
 lish pound sterling, neither can supply a sum of 
 32,000,000 by any kind of calculation that I am 
 aware of from 80,000,000 of crowns, which I have 
 always supposed to be 5s. each. But this was in 
 the days before Gough and Yoster. 
 
 Stevenson says* : — " When the Viceroy, Marquis 
 de la Palata, entered Lima in 1682, the streets 
 through which the procession passed were all 
 paved with bars of silver." The word all is put 
 in italics by me to do it, honour, as ifc seems only 
 in the same ordinary type as the rest in its 
 original. Indeed, I doubt whether it should not 
 be put all; for from the entrance-gate of the 
 Callao road to the Plaza the number of streets (of 
 course, meaning squares) is not less than from 
 twelve to fifteen, and these being all paved with 
 silver, it was a great shame for Frezier to have 
 said there were only two. 
 
 The city of Lima was surrounded by a wall, 
 
 Paz Soldan tells us, in 1685, by order of the 
 
 Viceroy, Duke of Palata, just mentioned. They 
 
 were afterwards repaired by the Viceroy Abascal, 
 
 ' Op. cit., vol. i. p. 324. 
 
 X 2 
 
308 TWO TEARS IN PEEU. [CHAP. XV 
 
 during the time of the struggle for independence. 
 Wonderfully strong, they -were about .five yards 
 high, and four yards thick, with thirty-four bas- 
 tions and twelve gates. 
 
 These were, however, of recent years, gradually 
 becoming useless, the walls tottering and the gates 
 broken up. But in the present year (1873) an 
 effectual coup de grace has been given to their inu- 
 tility, by the fact of the greater portion of them 
 having been bought, (to be turned into practical 
 usefulness), by Mr. Henry Meiggs. To effect this 
 a considerable length in the neighbourhood of the 
 Exhibition Palace, between which and the walls in 
 question the Chorillos Eailway runs, have been 
 pulled down. A boulevard of more than a mile 
 long has been planted with trees, extending 
 from the front of the palace to the gate of La 
 Piedra Liza, — that by which the traveller makes 
 his exit for the road to the ruins of Pacha-Camac. 
 On each side of this boulevard the ground is 
 levelled for the building of houses, and the whole 
 arrangement wiU admit of an increased quantity 
 of fresh air from the Pacific into Lima. 
 
 Much of the first impressions of a visitor to 
 this city must depend on the period of the year at 
 which he arrives. If he comes when the Garuas' 
 prevail — from ]\Iay till November^-the streets 
 ajDpear the epitome of discomfort, and the insides of 
 
 ' Gania.y means verj^ small rain, wliich is more like a heavy- 
 dew than eren a Scotch mist. 
 
ess: 
 
OHAP. XV.j EEMAINS OP PIZAEEO. 309 
 
 houses scarcely less so. For in Peruvian dwellings 
 there are no fire-places, and the sense of their 
 absence is doubly palpable when one is obliged to 
 feel his feet moistened from slipping on the muddy 
 streets, as to have his clothes saturated with damp. 
 
 The Plaza Principal, or principal square is, of 
 course, the first attraction for the new comer. In 
 this he will see one of the statehest cathedrals in 
 South America, founded by Pizarro, but requiring, 
 after its foundation, ninety years to complete the 
 building, owing to earthquakes and poHtical 
 imbroglios. It cost beyond 100,000Z. The 
 origiaal building was nearly totally destroyed in 
 the earthquake of 1746, but was rebuilt by that 
 excellent man, the Viceroy, Conde de Superunda. 
 Descriptive details of its architecture are given by 
 Dr. Fuentes, which are unnecessary forme to repeat.* 
 
 During my residence in Lima I went on two 
 diflferent occasions into the crypt under the choir 
 for the purpose of seeing what is there shown as 
 the remains of the conqueror, Francisco Pizarro. 
 I had previously been told by Senor Raimondy, 
 that a finger had been taken off one of 
 the hands. Dr. Fuente says that^ " in this 
 pantheon is preserved the head of Francisco 
 Pizarro, with the remains of his daughter Fran- 
 cisca, who bequeathed considerable property to 
 pay for the celebration of daily mass at the high 
 altar. The cost of ornaments and the other 
 ' Op. cit., part ii. p. 18. ' Op. cit., p. 24. 
 
310 TWO TEARS IN PEETJ. [OHAP. XV. 
 
 expenses occasioned by this mass are paid with, 
 the interest of 1,000 gold piastres left for the 
 purpose." The negro sacristan who brought us 
 down, and held a lighted candle, showed me a body 
 of a well-proportioned man, not only with one 
 finger off, but with all the metacarpal bones up to 
 the wrist taken away. He was in a niche, and over 
 him was an old silk cloak, from which I was 
 permitted to slice off a bit as a relic. I very soon 
 threw it away, however, on being told by the 
 Rev. Mr. Strong-i'-th'-arm, an English Roman 
 Catholic clergyman attached to the cathedral for 
 many years, that he believed a great many skele- 
 tons, and no inconsiderable number of silk cloaks, 
 had been doing duty for the memory of the great 
 Pizarro, since the Conqueror was accredited to 
 have been deposited here. 
 
 For there is in reality no vouchable proof that 
 his remains were ever brought to this cathedral. 
 All that history tells us is, that on the 26th of 
 June, 1541, or only six years after the foundation 
 of the city, he was assassinated at his own resi- 
 dence — it never could have been a palace as it is 
 entitled by some writers — in a narrow alley lead- 
 ing from the western side of the plaza down to 
 the Calle de Plateros (street of the silversmiths) in 
 the adjoining square. These assassins were the 
 followers of his rival, Almagro, and, to the number 
 of eighteen or twenty, cut him down on the stairs 
 of the house. I went to have a look at it one 
 
CHAP. XV.] PALACE OF PIZAEEO. 
 
 811 
 
 morning ; and it certainly appears a very out-of- 
 the-way place for the conqueror of Peru to reside 
 in. The alley is now called the CaUejon de 
 Petateros — the mat-makers' lane. Besides mat- 
 makers, there are one or two fourth-rate Itahan 
 eating-houses in it. 
 
 FEONT OF PIZAEKO S PAIACE. 
 
 Facing the entrance from the principal square 
 to the mat-makers' alley is the front gate of 
 Pizarro's palace, now used as ofl&ces for the 
 Government Executive, as the Ministry for Foreign 
 Affairs, the same for Treasury, "War, and Marine 
 Department, as well as Ministry of the Interior, 
 with official apartments for the President himself. 
 The last President, his Excellency Senor Don Jose 
 Balta, together with his family, resided here ; but 
 the present Executive, Senor Don Manuel Pardo, 
 prefers to remain with his family in his own private 
 
312 TWO YEARS IN PEEU. [CHAP. XV. 
 
 house some five squares off, or at Chorillos in the 
 bathing season, — coming hither every day to per- 
 form his functions as Citizen President. Here, or 
 at his own private house, he is always accessible 
 to the humblest person in the Republic. 
 
 This palace has been very appropriately described 
 by Senor Paz Soldan,* as " a confused, intricate, 
 and heterogeneous agglomeration of saloons, dis- 
 proportionate in their dimensions, drawing-rooms 
 and closets of different forms of construction that 
 constitute a labyrinth." The palace occupies a 
 ■whole square, including the police barracks out- 
 side and a few public offices in the same position. 
 
 It requires . a large appreciation of RepubKcan 
 liberty to persuade oneseK that the palace of the 
 head of the Government could be occupied, as this 
 is at its base in the side facing the plaza, as well as 
 that up the Calle del Palazio, or Palace Street, with 
 little huckster shops, ia which are seen gridirons for 
 sale, and old hatters' stores adjoining. " The 
 divinity that doth hedge a king " is certainly sadly 
 wanting in the case of the surroundings of a 
 Peruvian President, as the old palace of Pizarro 
 plainly testifies. 
 
 In the middle of the plaza is a bronze fountain, 
 tbat pours its w^aters out over a pretty collection 
 of flowers, enclosed within iron raiHng. From this 
 plaza going to the northward, we might cross the 
 river Rimac over the handsome bridge, and away 
 
 • "Geografia del Peru," p. 292. 
 
CHAP. XV.] TTNIVBESITY OF SAN MAECOS. 313 
 
 to the Alameda, or to tlie Ancon railway station. 
 But I prefer asking my readers to accompany me 
 three squares directly east from Pizarro's palace, 
 along the Calle Arzobispo, or Archbishop Street, to 
 the Plaza de la Independencia, as it is called now, 
 with a statue in its centre, of Bolivar, — one of the 
 great heroes of South American Independence. 
 
 This is from a model, the work of the sculptor 
 Adam Tadolini, and was made at Miller's art 
 foundry in Munich. It is of bronze, and has on 
 one side the inscription — 
 
 " To Simoa Bolivar, 
 The Liberator. 
 The Peruvian Nation, 
 In the year MDCCciiViii.'' 
 
 Laterally, at its base, are cut designs of the 
 battles of Ayacucho and Junin. Both of these 
 were fought by Bolivar in 1824, and were amongst 
 the principal incidents conducing to the realiza- 
 tion of throwing off the Spanish yoke. 
 
 In this square we find likewise the Royal and 
 Pontifical University of San Marcos, founded by 
 Royal Decree in a.d. 1551. As it was finished in 
 1576, it stands to-day — nearly three hundred 
 years old, — with the exception of some re- 
 pairs that had to be made after the destructive 
 earthquake of 1746. In this building is the 
 hall now used for sittings of the Chamber of 
 Deputies, the walls of which constitute a mass of 
 most elaborate carved wood-work. This hall was 
 
314 TWO YEAES IN PEETJ. [CHAP. XV. 
 
 formerly the cliapel of the University. The build- 
 ing likewise contains, in present use, the secretary's 
 offices and archives of the Congress — another large 
 saloon given over to the Medical Society — and one 
 for the University's proceedings, which last is 
 used also as a place of meeting for the College of 
 Advocates. "In this hall," says Doctor Fuente,' 
 " there are ninety-two low seats, and seventy-three 
 higher, besides two galleries, — one of them for the 
 canons, the other for the ladies. Its architecture, 
 though old, is substantial and handsome ; the upper 
 part of the walls is entirely covered with portraits 
 of former professors and rectors, amongst whom 
 are some persons of distinguished literary merit." 
 There is, however, another building in this 
 square, about which neither Mr. Paz Soldan nor 
 Dr. Fuentes writes a word, and that is the house 
 with the convex roof in front of the statue of 
 Bolivar, seen in the sketch. Perhaps the memory 
 of it ought to be let perish, or probably I would 
 have said notliing about it if it had been, as it ought 
 to be, at any sacrifice, levelled to the ground. 
 This is the present Senate House, and was 
 formerly the terrible Inquisition tribunal. I 
 visited it one day, and was conducted through 
 the greater portion by the care-taker — the members 
 not being then sitting. The room, in which the 
 terrible Inquisition business was carried on, is now 
 where the representatives congregate. My guide 
 ' Op. cit., p. 46. 
 

CHAP. XV.J MANY CHAPELS IN LIMA. 315 
 
 pointed out to me the spot in whicli the accused 
 were to be put kneehng during their trials. The 
 roof is of most exquisite carving, in the same style 
 as is done in the former refectory of the Jesuits, 
 behind the church of St. Peter, and interior to 
 the National Library. The man could not show me 
 the place where it was said there was machinery 
 for moving the head of a crucified Christ, which 
 was made to confront the accused, and to approve 
 of the sentence by bowing. But I saw and felt 
 enough, during my short visit there, to make me 
 impressed with the conviction, that it was a great 
 mistake of the National Government not to have 
 demolished this building, when they changed the 
 name of Plaza de la liiquisicion, into Plaza de la 
 Independencia. 
 
 Besides that of Bolivar there was formerly 
 in the Alameda, at the other side of the river, a 
 statue to Christopher Columbus, which has, re- 
 cently, been transferred to the open space between 
 the Exhibition Palace and Meiggs' boulevards — in 
 fact, the proper place for it to be, before the eyes 
 of the world, instead of keeping it hidden up as it 
 was before. 
 
 There is also a mint in Lima, chiefly under 
 the direction of English engineers. By this we 
 can pass out to the Botanical Gardens, which I 
 am sorry to record are not well attended to. 
 
 Lima has from sixty to seventy chapels, to write 
 a description of which would need some volumes, 
 
316 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [cHAP. XV. 
 
 and would, moreover, be a work of supererogation, 
 as it has been often done before. 
 
 The chapel of San Pedro, formerly the Colegio 
 Maximo of the Jesuits, was, at the time of Steven- 
 son's visit to Lima, (in the first decade of the 
 present century,) an Oratorio of San Felipe Neri. 
 This is the only description he gives of it, although 
 furnishing elaborate details of many of the other 
 chapels, as of the Cathedral, Saint Lazaro, Santo 
 Domingo, Santa Rosa, and La Merced. 
 
 San Pedro had for me many attractions during 
 my twelve months' stay at the Hotel de Maury, 
 only two squares off. These I cannot accoimt for, 
 but I found myself fi'equently wandering about its 
 precincts. The raihngs, that are represented as 
 facing it, in Senor Paz Soldan's Geographical 
 Atlas, no longer exist. On a stone near the front 
 of the main entrance door, and about ten feet hiofh, 
 is engraved a.d. 165G, — the date of its construc- 
 tion. The architecture inside at once shows, to 
 the visitor, the beautiful style which characterizes 
 Jesuit buildings aU over South America. It occupies 
 a whole square Cuadra' of ground, and the gate en- 
 trance to what was formerly the cloisters from the 
 Calle San Pedro brings you into a patio — silent as 
 the catacombs, and deserted as the Sahara. In fi^ont 
 is some attempt at remodelling the cloisters, but 
 the brick and mortar seem to have been put up 
 many years ago, although the decayed scaffolding 
 still clings aboiit. Turn to the right, and knock 
 
 * Square Cuadra represents a square of 150 yards each way. 
 
CHAP. XV. j NATIONAL LIBRARY OP PERU. 317 
 
 gently at the middle door. It will be opened by a 
 venerable old gentleman, very tbin, meagre, and 
 feeble-looking, who salutes you courteously, taking 
 oflF a little skull-cap he wears, and — if you have 
 an introduction to him — who will invite you 
 inside. Here you find yourself in the National 
 Library of Peru, and asked to take a seat by the 
 only occupant of the place with yourself. The 
 old gentleman w^ho let you in, is no other than the 
 celebrated Doctor T. de Paula Gonzalez Vigil, once 
 a Roman Catholic clergyman, till he was excom- 
 municated by the Pope for some of his writings. 
 He is, however, the librarian here ; and if you come 
 any time of the day from sun-dawn to sun-down. 
 Dr. Vigil is never absent. 
 
 Between this library and the front street 
 is a reading-room, where half a dozen to a 
 dozen newspaper readers are seated. But the 
 libraiy itself consists only of a few thousand 
 books — the greater part of them being reUgious 
 vellum-bound volumes, and such as only an anti- 
 quarian of a theological turn of mind would think 
 of consulting. In the small room here was exhi- 
 bited, at the period of my first visit, the cele- 
 brated painting of the " Funeral of Atahualpa." 
 From this it was taken to the Exhibition Palace. 
 At the opposite end of the library a small door 
 leads into what was the refectory in the time the 
 Jesuits held it, and w-here there is a ceiling of 
 carved cedar-wood. This is a wonderful work — 
 nearly sixty feet long (the whole length of the 
 
318 TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. XV. 
 
 room), and well -worth the visit of all art- 
 admirers. Retm^ning from the library into the 
 Patio, and walking across it, I see an entablature 
 of copper in the wall, fi'om which I transcribe 
 the following inscription : — " Reynando la Mag. 
 de Philippo iii. n.s. ano de 1617, El Exmo Senor 
 D. Francisco Borja, Principe de EsquiUache, 
 Virrey des estos Reynos mando rredificar este 
 Marmol,' que es la memoria del castigo, que se dio 
 a Francisco de Carabajal. Maes sede Campo de 
 1 Gonfolo Pizarro en cuya compania fue aleve y 
 traydoras Virrey y senoral national cuyas cassas 
 se derryvaron y sembraron de Satano de 1548, 
 y este es su solar despues Reynando la Mag. 
 Philippo iii. N.s. El Exmo Senor D. Pedro Toledo 
 y Leyva, Marques de Manchera, Virrey de estos 
 Reynos, Gentilhombre de su Camara y de su 
 consejo de Guerra, estando este Marmol otra ves 
 perdido le mando renovar ano de 1645." The 
 translation of this old Spanish amounts to a 
 record, that during the reign of his Majesty 
 Philip III., and in the year 1617, Prince Borja, 
 at the time Viceroy out here, sent to renew this 
 marble, which is in memory of the punishment 
 that was given to Don Francisco Carabajal for 
 something in which Satan was again a partkeps 
 
 ' " Este ;Marmol " is on the inscriptiou, although the plate is 
 of copper. It would appear to have been done by an illiterate 
 pei-son, but that we must remember the spelling of the Spanish 
 is of the seventeenth century. 
 
CHAP. XV.] NATIONAL MUSEUM AT LIMA. 319 
 
 criminis in 1648. Once more it was replaced, 
 when the Marquis de Manchera was Viceroy, in 
 1645 ; and the tablet from which I copy is, I 
 believe, the identical one last mentioned. 
 
 The punishment of Carabajal is thus related by 
 Prescott:' — "He was carried to execution on a 
 hurdle, or rather in a basket, dra^\Ti by two mules. 
 His ai"ms were pinioned, and as they forced his 
 bulky body into this miserable conveyance he 
 exclaimed, 'Cradles for infants, and a cradle for 
 the old man too, it seems.' Notwithstanding the 
 disinclination he had manifested to a confessor, he 
 was attended by several ecclesiastics on his way to 
 the gallows ; and one of them repeatedly urged 
 him to give some token of penitence at this solemn 
 hour, if it were only by repeating the Pater Noster 
 and Ave Maria. Carabajal, to rid himself of the 
 ghostly [why ghostly ?] father's importunity, 
 replied by cooUy repeating the words Pater Noster 
 and Ave Maria. He then remained obstinately 
 silent. He died as he had lived, with a jest, or 
 rather a scoff on his lips." 
 
 Turning to the left, beneath the same arcade, 
 I come to a door that was once green, but is now 
 an indescribable colour, from the must of ages. 
 This tells, with a label on the outside, that it is 
 " El Museo Nacional," the National Museum. But 
 there is a padlock on it as large, probably, as any 
 in Newgate, and the porter at the porte-cochere does 
 
 ' " History of the Conquest of Peru," p. 418, hook v. chap. iv. 
 
320 TWO YBAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XV. 
 
 not know anything about the key. I made a pil- 
 grimage to the door of this museum scores of times 
 during my residence in Lima, but the lock was 
 always there. Even Dr. Yigil, at the opposite side of 
 the Patio, knew nothing about it, for it was not in 
 his department. After the creation of the Society 
 of Eine Arts, referred to elsewhere, I was one of the 
 committee asked to inspect it, with a view to the 
 removal of its contents to the Exhibition Palace, for 
 the formation of a new museum. But my imagina- 
 tion of these was sadly disappointed. On its walls 
 are hanging portraits of all the Viceroys who for- 
 merly governed in Lima. Outside of these the collec- 
 tion of other objects was confined to a few hundred 
 birds, some animal monstrosities of double-headed 
 calves, et voila tout. The dozen or two specimens 
 of prehistoric crockery- ware, that it had contained, 
 were already sent to the Exhibition Palace, and 
 the whole was not worth the cost of being re- 
 moved. I could not help reflecting on this as a 
 cogent illustration of the absence of national taste, 
 to say nothing of national pride, in the city of 
 Lima, — where the large Exhibition Palace could 
 be filled with archaeological proofs of the ancient 
 glories of Peru, without going farther than six to 
 eight miles outside the city walls. 
 
 At the Museum of the Faculty of jMedicine there 
 are not more than from twenty-two to twenty-four 
 skulls of Lidians, most of them being abnormal, 
 and the majority picked up by Senor Raimondy in 
 

 .4^^^-- 
 
 1^^ ^ 
 
 
 ^'■*-A''" 
 
 , i*'A;=7 
 
 BUIDGE OF LIMA. 
 
 \Vijl. J. p. 320. 
 
CHAP. XV.] INCA DELUSION. 321 
 
 his travels. A few wooden idols complete the con- 
 tents there. Senor Don Miceno Bspantoso has the 
 rarest specimens of pottery-ware that are to be 
 found in Lima, as well as cloth, and ornamental 
 art -work, with gold and silver cups, and idols. 
 These are valuable because the owner knows from 
 whence they all came. It is not so, however, with 
 a very large collection left by the late Senor 
 Perreyras, as the locale whence any of them was 
 obtained is not known. Another lot is in the pos- 
 session of Senor Cundamarin, formerly Postmaster- 
 General in Lima. A doctor, whose name I forget, 
 and who lives in the Plaza de BoUvar, has some few 
 more. With these I believe I have exhausted the 
 catalogue of holders of the ancient treasures of Peru. 
 
 The persistence of the Inca delusion is still 
 carried out in Peru, after a fashion that may be 
 said to border on caricature. Here at Lima, and 
 not far from the principal plaza, I see outside of 
 a photographer's establishment a large cardboard, 
 about a yard square in size, framed and glazed. 
 On it I observe a couple of dozen of figures, of 
 carte de visite size, and these are marked under- 
 neath " The Incas of Peru." They have all a 
 family likeness in the hats, the large-lobed ears, 
 and the half-pike, half-halberd-looking symbol of 
 authority clutched in the hand. I had passed 
 them by many times, and, after several casual 
 glances, was impressed mth the idea, that I had, 
 some time or another, seen them before I came 
 
 VOL. I. ■? 
 
322 
 
 TWO YEAES IN PERU. 
 
 FCHAP. XV. 
 
 to Pena. Wlien one day scrutinizing more 
 minutely, I at one recognized the models of tke 
 vignettes of our ancient English kings — the 
 WiUiams, Eichards, Edwards, and Hehrys — that 
 were put at the headings of the chapters de- 
 scriptive of their reigns in Goldsmith's " History 
 of England." Take off the big ears — which, by 
 the way, the coast tribes cultivated long before 
 the Inca period — dock off a feather or two here 
 and there, and you have the Anglo-Saxon monarchs 
 of our school-boy days doing duty at the present 
 time for the Incas of Peru — the first of whom 
 dates only as far back as the time of "William the 
 Conqueror. 
 
 Of the hospitals in Lima I cannot speak too 
 
 r£.MT£.vriAi;i of lima. 
 
 highly ; and without desiring to make any dispa- 
 ragement, feel bound to particularize those of San 
 
CHAP. XT.j LIMA PENITENTIARY. 323 
 
 Andres and the French, hospital, — both cared for 
 in all their excellent regime by Sisters of Charity. 
 The Lima Penitentiary, although unobtrusive in 
 its general features, is one of these institutions 
 which reflect credit, not only on its founder, but 
 on the executive of its administration. The whole 
 foundation and carrying out of this admirable 
 prison is due to the great powers, as well as acute 
 observation, of Senor Don Mariano Felipe Paz 
 Soldan, who, in 1853, commissioned by the Peru- 
 vian Government, visited Europe and the United 
 States to make observations on, and take notes 
 of, similar estabHshments abroad. It would be a 
 difl&cialt matter to convey to any one who had not 
 visited it, a correct idea of the perfect security of 
 this place of confinement. In the centre of the 
 building is a large circular watching-place, from 
 whence radiate outwards, like a star-fish, the 
 several corridors, in which the warders can always 
 see that the prisoners are at their posts. These 
 corridors are two stories high, and the building in 
 its original plan was intended for a thousand cells. 
 But this has been only two-thirds finished. The 
 prisoners are all obliged to work in some useful 
 trade, as carpenters, tailors, cabinet - makers, 
 tinkers, and so forth ; while the sale of their manu- 
 factured work makes no unimportant item in the 
 general daily expenses of the building. The wall 
 enclosing it is thirty -five feet high, and the only 
 entrance by the principal door abuts on the street, 
 
 X 2 
 
324 TWO YEARS IN PJBEU. [CHAr. XV. 
 
 facing the Chorillos Railway. Its southern wall is 
 at the other side of the road, opposite to the grand 
 entrance of the Exhibition Palace. 
 
 Besides these described, Lima has several other 
 public buildings. Amongst them are eight Na- 
 tional colleges ; one for the study of jurispru- 
 dence ; an ecclesiastical seminary ; a college for 
 the study of medicine and the accessory sciences ; 
 one for secondary instruction ; a normal school ; 
 a naval and military institute; a college for 
 obstetrics ; a school of arts and trades ; and an 
 industrial municipal school — the last-mentioned 
 inaugurated by his Excellency Senor Don Manuel 
 Pardo, at the end of last year, before a brilliant 
 assembly of the elite of Lima. Moreover, we find 
 an orphan school, lunatic asylum, general ceme- 
 tery, two theatres, in one of which, " Odeon," the 
 celebrated Italian tragic actor, Ernest Rossi, 
 delighted the Limanese last year by his Shake- 
 spearian performances. Likewise a j)it for cock- 
 fights (private property), and a bull-fight circus, 
 belonging to the board for relieving the poor, — 
 said to be the largest bull-fight circus in the 
 world. Such is fame ! 
 
 I cannot help expressing an opinion about what 
 I conceive the imperfect hygienic condition of 
 Lima, although it is in many respects superior to 
 that of Callao. Formerly those abominable aze- 
 quias, or aqueducts, running in the centre of the 
 streets, were open, and furnished browsing gi-ounds 
 
CHAP. XV.] LADIES OF LIMA. 325 
 
 for tlie turkey buzzards. Now much of the 
 offensiveness is removed by their being covered 
 over, and converted into sewer-pipes through the 
 town. This is, however, not a system of drainage, 
 in any sense of the word, adapted to such a chmate 
 as that of Lima. For at several comers of streets 
 is to be found a kind of trap -door, opened every 
 night at ten o'clock to have the excreta of the 
 inhabitants put therein. No doubt such an 
 arrangement would be comparatively unobjec- 
 tionable, if there were a perpetual current of 
 water running through, instead of as it is now, 
 most irregularly intermittent. My readers will 
 understand my objection when I remark, that the 
 trap-doors are opened every night to receive the 
 ejecta, whilst it sometimes happens that the water, 
 which is always a puny stream, is not tiu-ned on 
 once a week. 
 
 Much has been said, and with very good reason, 
 of the beauty of the ladies of Lima. During my 
 two years' residence out there I have seen many 
 of them exceeding, in every grace of womanhood, 
 even the angelic designs in Dr. Fuente's work. But 
 as I know a good deal has been written condem- 
 natory of their moral character, — for which depre- 
 ciation I believe exists little foundation, — I consider 
 it my duty to protest against such unmanliness. 
 
 The author of the latest work that I have seen 
 published about Peru,^ after a good deal of namby- 
 
 = ""Wliat I saw on tlie "West Coast of South and ISTortli 
 
326 
 
 TWO TEAKS IN PERU. [ciIAP. XV. 
 
 pambj writing of an offensive character, as well as 
 insulting to tlie religious ceremonies of the Catholic 
 Church in Lima, talks of the beautifully graceful 
 garb of the Lima ladies in olden times, the Saya y 
 Manta, as a thing only invented for immorality. 
 He describes the twpada, its successor, as a garb / 
 of equal, if not greater, foulness in design, and as 
 
 SAYA T ilANTA {jLSClE>.~r: COSTUME OP LIMA LADIES). 
 
 " a device of Paris civilization." He quotes at some 
 length from "A travers VAmerique du Sud, par F. 
 
 America; and at the Hawaieau Islands." By H. Willis Baslej'-, 
 M.D. New York : J). Appleton and Co., 443 and 445, Broad-', 
 way, 1865. 
 
CHAP. XV.J SWEEPING GENERALIZATION. 
 
 327 
 
 Dahadie, Paris, 1859 " — a Frenchman and reputed 
 Roman Catholic — to prove that all the women are 
 bad, but that their badness is inevitable, as of 
 cause and effect from the viciousness of the men — 
 priests and nuns alike included.' 
 
 TAPADA (LATEK COSTUME OF LIMA lADIES). 
 
 What the opportunities of Monsieur Dabadie, or 
 Dr. Baxley may have been, to learn the minutiae 
 of this state of affairs I cannot say. From the 
 text of Dr. Baxley's work, I should imagine he was 
 not a sufficiently long time in this part of Peru to 
 
 " Chastity is more common, and infidelity more uncommon, 
 amongst the Peruvians than in most countries of the old world." 
 (Stevenson, Op. cit., vol. i. p. 390). 
 
328 TWO TEARS IN PEEIT. [cHAP. XV. 
 
 permit experience for such a sweeping generaliza- 
 tion. I have often heard the changes rung upon 
 the same topic, in reference to Paraguay, the Banda 
 Oriental, and the Argentine Republic, with all of 
 which I am acquainted for fifteen years. And I 
 have no hesitation in saying, from my experience 
 of South America, that not only regarding Peru, 
 but elsewhere within my knowledge, they are 
 perfectly foundationless, and equally untrue. 
 
 Without attempting the tu quoqtie style of 
 argument, I am inclined to believe that any man 
 coming from the United States or Great Britain, 
 and who may know — as who does not ? — the con- 
 dition of the social evil in the large towns, ought 
 not to forget the sublime reminder of Our Saviour, 
 " He that is without sin amongst you, let him 
 first cast a stone." Such a sentiment as is 
 conveyed in the words of Eliza Cook might be 
 no harm for men like Dr. Basley to study and 
 reflect upon : — 
 
 " Great teaching froiA a greater Teaclier — fit 
 To breathe alike t.o infancy and age. 
 No garbled mysterj' encircles it ; 
 And noblest hearts have deepest read the page. 
 Carve it upon the heart, and temple-arch : 
 Let our fierce judges read it as they go : 
 Make it the key-note of life's pompous march, 
 And trampling steps vrill be more soft and slow ; 
 For God's own voice says from the eternal throne, 
 Let him that is vrithout sin first cast the stone." 
 
 The ladies of Lima, in addition to their unim- 
 
CHAP. XV. J LITEEAET LADIES AT LIMA. 329 
 
 peachable morale, can couot amongst tlieir numbers 
 many of high literary celebrity. When Mr . Markham 
 wrote about Peru, more than twelve years ago, he 
 enumerated, with the press of its capital, the 
 " Revista de Lima," — " a bi-monthly periodical 
 containing archaeological, biographical, historical 
 and financial articles and reviews, generally very 
 ably written in an enhghtened and hberal spirit, 
 and by men who evidently take an earnest view of 
 life." * This publication did not exist during the 
 greater portion of my residence there, having been 
 doubtless swept away by the vicissitudes of the 
 several revolutions, which intervened between 1860 
 and 1872. But on the 1st of April, 1873, appeared 
 again the first number of the "Hevista de Lima" 
 — not solely directed to literary, but including 
 scientific, and historical, subjects. Amongst its 
 contributors are two Peruvian ladies — the 
 Senoritas Carolina Freire de James, and Juana 
 Manuela Gorsiti. The first-named gives an article 
 on "The Altar Fireside," ("El Hogar,") and a 
 moral essay on charity, with the quotation of " his 
 dat qui cito datj" rendered into Spanish;' whilst 
 the second is the authoress of an allegory under 
 the title of " A Drama in Fifteen Minutes." ' 
 
 During the month of June last, there appeared 
 in the Nacional, newspaper of Lima, a series of 
 
 * Op. cit., p. 310. 
 
 ^ " Quien da pronto, du dos veces." 
 
 ' " Un Drama en quince minutos." 
 
330 TWO YEAES IN PERU. [CIIAP. XV. 
 
 treatises, under the title of " Conferencias Femi- 
 ninas"- or " Feminine Discourses," from the pen 
 of a lady, a native of Lima. Thej were published 
 with the nom de guerre of Maria de la Luz, and 
 although I have the pleasure of knowing who the 
 lady is, and that she belongs to one of the first fami- 
 hes in Peru, I regret that I do not feel authorized 
 to give the name. The last article of hers that I 
 saw, " On Ethics and Theology," is characterized 
 by lofty thought, eloquent teaching, and ejiigram- 
 matic reasoning. It also possesses the charm of 
 being pecuharly feminine, for it relates to the 
 sound culture of the female mind in connexion 
 with the domestic virtues, as opposed to the 
 bigotry and intolerance of " femiaine inclinations, 
 marked by fits of fi-antic devotion, alternated with 
 indifferentism and frivolity." All honour should 
 be given to such womanly teaching ! 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Exhibition Palace at Lima. — Originated and inaugurated in 
 President Balta's time of office. — Delays in opening. — Doctor 
 Puentes its presiding genius. — Situation of the Palace. — 
 Description of contents and of adjacent grounds. — Lack of 
 archseological subjects exhibited. — Mummies at Exhibition. — 
 Magnificent painting by Peruvian artist, Monteros, of the 
 ■waking of Atahualpa.i — Death of the artist of yeUow fever in 
 1868. — Luis Medina's statues of Indian man and woman. — 
 Excellence of execution. — Mosaic tables from Ecuador.-;— 
 Wonderful clock by Major Don Pedro Euiz. — Condors in the 
 garden. — Huacas or burial-mounds outside the walls. — Obscure 
 antiquity side by side with modern civilization. — ^View of 
 Callao from top of Palace. — Absence of President Ealta from 
 opening ceremony. — Political storms foreshadowed. 
 
 The National Exhibition Palace at Lima, which, 
 was opened on Monday, 1st July, 1872, was sanc- 
 tioned by vote of Congress in the month of Sep- 
 tember, 1869, and the building was commenced 
 on the 1st of January, 1870. It was originally ex- 
 pected to have been finished, and the inauguration 
 to take place, on the 1st of July, 1872. But in all 
 South American countries, it may be scarcely neces- 
 sary to observe, delays such as that just mentioned 
 seem to be a sine qua non of every undertaking. 
 ; The originator, as well as planner, of the design of 
 this palace is Doctor Don Manuel a Fuentes, already 
 well known in connexion with his elegantly illus- 
 
332 
 
 TWO YEARS m PEBU. [CHAP. XVT. 
 
 trated " Guide to Lima." Its architect was Seuor 
 Don Antonio Leonardo, an Italian ; and the total 
 space allotted to the gardens, palace, machine 
 show-rooms, theatre, coffee-houses, concert-room, 
 animal cages, and parterres comprises an area of 
 192,000 metres, or about forty-eight square acres. 
 
 M -.f , > *- 
 
 " - I K*! - t- <A' - f 't * 1,-1 E 
 
 (I- ' 
 
 PRIKCIPAL ENTOANCE TO LIMA EXHIBITrON PALACE. 
 
 Situated in the suburbs at the southern side of 
 the Penitentiary, the Exhibition Palace of Lima 
 is one of the most stately and graceful buildings 
 in the capital of Peru. It stands at the distance 
 of about a mile from the principal square, or plaza, 
 where we see the palace of Pizarro. In front of" 
 the Exhibition house, and within the enclosure, is a\ 
 space of 225 metres long by 1721 metres mde. To 
 
CHAP. XVI.J EXHIBITION PALACE. 333 
 
 it there are three entrances — the principal one, 
 opposite the Penitentiary wall, being used on 
 State occasions. Next to the Chorillos railway are 
 the two entrances for the public, and quite close 
 to where tickets are issued in an adjacent small 
 building. These gates are called the " Santa 
 Maria " and the " Vivanco " — the first in honour 
 of the Minister of the Interior of that name under 
 President Balta, who held ofl&ce at the time of 
 opening, and the second after General Vivanco, 
 who was President of the Executive Commission, 
 or Board of Directors, entrusted with carrying out 
 the work. 
 
 Entering the grand gate you pass by a theatre 
 on the right, with a refreshment-room to the left 
 of the avenue. Farther on is a conservatory 
 for hot-house plants, with a little Turkish glorietta, 
 in which a cigar can be enjoyed. By a fountain 
 built with the surrounding of large stones — 
 forming a mound on which is a colossal figure, 
 resembling Hercules slaying the Lern^an Hydra — 
 between rows of gas-lamps, and, on the day of 
 opening, amongst a forest of Peruvian banners, 
 thicker than were "leaves in Vallambrosa," — a 
 walk of 130 metres from the main entrance brings 
 the visitor to the vestibule of the palace. Each 
 front door has a mai'ble Cerberus on its side. 
 
 To the right, as you enter, is a room about 
 four yards square, in which, on two tables 
 and in a glass case, are arranged all that was 
 
334 TWO TEARS IN PEEU. [CBAP. XVI. 
 
 worth bringing from the National Museum of 
 Peruvian antiquities. Mariano Felipe Paz Soldan' 
 says the Museum had, when he published his 
 book ten years ago, 5,330 objects of Zoology, 
 antiquities, and so forth. Here we do not see 
 half of the 330, leaving out the 5,000. They consist 
 of mummies in a glass case, some of those which 
 furnish illustrations to Dr. Tschude's and Senor 
 Rivero's book,^ and that were obtained at Caja- 
 tambo at the other side of the Andes. On one of 
 the walls is painted a great oval face of a deep 
 red colour, backed with yellow and fringed with 
 blue, supposed to be the artist's. idea of a presiding 
 Sun. Eor all these things are credited to the 
 Inca sun-worshippers — although probably many 
 a time the real sun shone over them before ever 
 there was an Inca in the land. One of these 
 mummies is said to have been found at Ayacucho. 
 They are all in the usual squatting posture, and one 
 with a rope round its neck is said to have been 
 executed. In two the hair and teeth are well 
 preserved, the tresses of one — a lady — being as 
 nicely plaited as when she went to her last dinner, 
 route, or dancing party. 
 
 Amongst these things exhibited are several 
 water-crofts of prehistoric crockery-ware — cloth 
 of exquisite dye — feather hats, bows and arrows, 
 stone hatchets, and canoe paddles. Here also we 
 
 ' "Geografia del Peru," p. 308, piibKslied in 1862. 
 
 ' " Antiqiiedades Peruanaj," published at Vienna in 1851. 
 
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CHAP. XVI.J OBSEQUIES OF ATAHUALPA. ^ 335 
 
 find tlie terra-cotta mask, which I have already 
 mentioned as found at Chancay.' 
 
 Before going up the grand staircase, by whick 
 one can mount either to the left or to the right, 
 I am magnetically arrested to gaze on the mag- 
 nificent large picture by the Peruvian artist, 
 Monteros, representing the funeral rites, or ob- 
 sequies, of Atahualpa, the last of the Incas. It is 
 the scene which is thus described byPrescott:^ — 
 " The body of the Inca remained on the place of 
 execution through the night. On the following 
 morning it was removed to the church of San 
 Francisco, where his funeral obsequies were per- 
 formed with great solemnity. Pizarro and the 
 principal cavaliers went into mourning,' and 
 the troops listened, with devout attention, to 
 the service of the dead from the lips of Father 
 Valverde. The ceremony was interrupted by 
 the sound of loud cries, and wailing as of 
 many voices at the doors of the church. These 
 were suddenly thrown open,, and a number of 
 Indian women, the wives and sisters of the 
 deceased, rushing up to the great aisle, surrounded 
 the corpse. This was not the way, they cried, to 
 celebrate the rites of an Inca, and they declared 
 their intention to sacrifice themselves on his 
 
 ^ Vide chap, viii., p. 128. 
 ■* " History of the Conquest of Peru," p. 212. 
 ' Crocodile fashion may be supposed, for the man they had 
 murdered. — T. J. H. 
 
336 • TWO YEARS IN PERU. [CHAP. XVI. 
 
 tomb, and bear him company to tbe land of spirits. 
 The audience, outraged by this frantic behaviour, 
 told the intruders that Atahualpa had died in the 
 faith of a Christian, and that the God of the 
 Christians abhorred such sacrifices. They then 
 caused the women to be excluded from the church, 
 and several, retiring to their ovm quarters, laid 
 violent hands on themselves in the vain hope of 
 accompanying their beloved lord to the bright 
 mansions of the Sun." 
 
 It is the incident of forcing the women out of 
 the church by the soldiers that is depicted by the 
 artist.* There is only one painting that 1 have 
 ever seen that has had the same absorbing enthral- 
 Hng effect upon me as this of Atahualpa, and that 
 is the exquisite portrait of Kemble by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds, which I used to sit and admire, for 
 hours upon hours, in the National Gallery more 
 than twenty years ago. 
 
 This picture by Monteros was executed during 
 his stay at Florence some years past ; and the 
 National Congress of Peru presented him with 
 20,000 soles, or about 4,000Z. for it in the year 
 1867. He unfortunately died at Callao dm-ing the 
 yellow fever epidemic of 1868. 
 
 What pleased me most in this Exhibition was 
 the number of works of art by native artists. 
 Even the excellent carpentry of the prisoners 
 
 The fi-outispiece to second volume is taken from a photo- 
 graph of this picture. 
 
CHAP. XVI.] SELF-EDUCATED ARTIST. 
 
 337 
 
 in the Penitentiary was a thing of which, if I were 
 a Peruvian, I should be proud. 
 
 Passing by the English exhibitions, the hke of 
 which can be seen any day in London, Liverpool, 
 Sheffield, Birmingham, or Manchester, I come to a 
 piece of Mosaic work, representing a large square of 
 different classes of wood from Tumbez, by a native 
 artist, Henry Ximenes. In one of the rooms here 
 
 GYPSUM STATUE OF INDIAN" WOMAN. 
 
 we find some exquisitely chiselled figures by an 
 Indian artist of Peru, self-educated, named Luis 
 VOL. I. z 
 
338 TWO YEARS IN PEEC. [CHAP. .XVI. 
 
 Medina/ a native of Huamanga in tlie valley of 
 Ayacucho. They consist of the descent of our 
 Savioui" from the cross, in which the artistic 
 arrangement of the grouping is impressive in the 
 extreme. This is small, but it is done in marble 
 from the valley of Medina's birth-place. Of the 
 same material, and in this room, by the same hand 
 is a holy-water pot. In another room we find more 
 of Medina's work in a bust of Coronel Santa Maria, 
 a sleeping Venus of hf e-size, and two statues, — one 
 of an Indian woman, and the Other of an Indian 
 man. These last-named are of gypsum, or sul- 
 phate of hme, but for life-like expression, for natu- 
 ral pose — ^^as even the very veins are represented on 
 the leg of the man — these figures are unrivalled. 
 
 In one of the corners of the upper story was the 
 model of a mountaineer in clothing made of coarse 
 matting, which they say is the pattern of di-ess 
 worn by the Indians of old times in crossing the 
 CordiUera. It has a helmet of the same material 
 as the under-dress, in which are holes for the eyes, 
 and an aperture for the mouth to breathe through. 
 Near to this, on the end wall, we pass by an 
 allegorical painting of Peru, representing an 
 Indian of bushy beard, with his hand on the 
 globe, and a hatchet at his feet. He has one arm 
 a-kimbo, and close by is a pillar, on which Liberty 
 is seated. On this pillar are painted the names of 
 
 ' I am glad to mention that ^Medina got a silver medal and 
 600 soles, or about 100/. 
 
CHAP. XVI.] PRODUCTS OP CHILE AND ECUADOR. 339 
 
 Buenos Ayres, Chile, Colombia, Mexico, Bolivia, 
 and Peru. Over the whole is a streamlet, on 
 which are inscribed — in Spanish of course — the 
 words, " Peru, sovereign and free, the friend of all 
 nations, whilst independent of them ! " 
 
 GTPSUM STATUE OF U\DIiN MAN. 
 
 The machinery is too extensive to record here. 
 Amongst it may, however, be noticed a die- 
 stamping machine, froin the School of Arts in 
 Lima, done by a student of three years, Don 
 Jacinto Marteiorena. 
 
 z 2 
 
340 TWO TEAES IN PERU. [CHAP. XVI. 
 
 The neighbouring Republics of Chile to the 
 south, and Ecuador to the north, have sent their 
 contributions likewise. Amongst those of the 
 former is a large collection of agricultural products, 
 as well as a steam-engine made by the boys of 
 the Escuela de Artes (School of Arts) in Santiago. 
 From Guayaquil, the chief seaport of Ecuador, are 
 two circular tables, one made of thirty-six different 
 classes of wood, done in Mosaic pattern, to the 
 number of 3,000 pieces. Another of the same 
 kind has 5,000 bits in its composition. The name 
 of the maker is Enrique Jergens, and he has 
 occupied three years in the manufacture of each. 
 
 Passing out into the garden, one cannot help 
 feeling puzzled, amongst such an embarras des 
 richesses, to discriminate as to what had best be 
 noticed. But Peruvian art claims the first place. 
 Quite close to the refireshment-room is a house, 
 having a convex roof, which is the locale of a 
 clock. This timepiece is the work of a native 
 Peruvian, Major Don Pedro Ruiz. He spent six 
 years in its manufacture. Besides the dial for 
 indicating the hours are six others to show the 
 days of the week, the months, phases of the moon, 
 historical data, equinoxes, years, and centuries. 
 It likewise marks the leap-year. It presents 
 historical pictures by its revolutions. There are 
 thirteen bodies of wheels,- requiring to be wound 
 up at different intervals ; those of the hours every 
 twelve days ; those of the years and centuries 
 
CHAP. XVI.] ANACHRONISM NEAR EXHIBITION. 341 
 
 need to be wound up only once in thirty-two 
 years. Attached to the clock by its machinery is a 
 barrel-organ, which, regulated by a spring, plays 
 only two airs, the Peruvian National Hymn, and 
 the more popular air, the " Dos de Mayo," or 2nd 
 of May. 
 
 The tower, which contains this clock, is of an 
 arched form at the top, being about sixty feet high 
 at its loftiest point, with a breadth of fifty feet. 
 There is a bell on each extern side ; that on the 
 right to strike the quarters ; that on the left to 
 chime the half-hours. On the front, near the top, 
 are painted the Peruvian arms, under which are 
 two dials. One of these has printed on it " The Con- 
 gress of 1868," and " His Excellency Don Jose 
 Balta protected this work." The other presents 
 " Begun in 1866, and concluded in 1872, by 
 Pedro Ruiz." 
 
 I have been particular in describing this work, 
 because, for a man with such limited means at his 
 disposal to cultivate the art of clockmaking, 
 as must necessarily be in the way of a major in 
 any South American army, it reflects the highest 
 credit on his native genius. 
 
 Amongst the birds*in the Exhibition gardens are 
 a few Condors, which seem, in cages, to be out of 
 their element, from what Mrs. Hemans describes, — 
 
 " Tkeir high. PeruYian solitudes among.'' 
 More anomalous still is what greets my eyes, as, 
 
342 TWO TEAKS IN PEEU. [CHAP. XVI. 
 
 returning to the building, I see from tlie topmost 
 roof the shipping in the Bay of Callao, and, not 
 more than a stone's throw from the outer wall, 
 the ruins of some huacas, or burial-mounds. A 
 ■writer in " Chambers' Journal "* observes truly of 
 such an anachronism as we have here, " There 
 is more mystic solemnity attached to the abso- 
 lutely obscure antiquity of these records of the 
 past in the New World than to even the most 
 venerable records of the Old. The latter have an 
 unbroken sequence of traditions and history. 
 They are links in the great process of time, and 
 events. We understand, or think we understand 
 them. But these New World mysteries puzzle us, 
 existing, in their unfathomable antiquity, side by 
 side with all that is modern and most full of 
 change — evidences of extinct races, which lived 
 unconscious of the existence of half the planet, 
 as half the planet was of them." 
 
 Although we have all that here side by side, we 
 can say to-day amidst the Palace grounds — tout 
 cela est change. Whilst the Peruvian nation 
 is not only no longer unconscious of half the 
 world, or half the world of it, but is rapidly 
 shaking off the hereditary bondage of exclusive- 
 nes^i and by its railways, its telegraphs, and its 
 Exhibition Palace, is taking its proper place on 
 the map of the world. 
 
 ' " Chambers' Edinburgli Journal," part xcvi., December 30, 
 1871, p. 7G5. 
 
CLAP. XVI.] MOEAL THUNDER-CLOUD. 343 
 
 Amongst any other people than one of the 
 passive, unexcitable nations of South America, 
 the absence of his Excellency President Balta 
 "would have given rise to a sad discourage- 
 ment at the opening of the Exhibition. For he 
 Avas known to be at his palace, only half a dozen 
 squares off, and yet he sent Minister Santa Maria 
 to represent him in the official programme of the 
 inauguration. Many of these retrospective pro- 
 phets, whom one meets every day, have since 
 that time said, how they knew he was in fear 
 of the moral thunder-cloud, that was gathering 
 over his head, and which burst with such un- 
 exampled fury in less than a month after this 
 event on the capital of Peru. 
 
 END OF VOL. 1. 
 
LONDON : 
 
 aiLBEBT AND KITIKGTON, PBINTEES, 
 
 ST. JOHN'S SQUAEE.