Natural and Artificial Indian Runner Duck Culture LEVI D. YODER Dublin, Bucks County, Penna. Price Seventy- five Cents MEMORIAL POULTRY LIBRARY. ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New York State Colleges of Agriculture and Home Economics at Cornell University Cornell University Library SF 505.Y54 Natural and artificial Indian runner due 3 1924 003 691 742 |4 Cornell University f Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003691742 ^Natural and Artificial*! Indian Runner Duck Culture Published by LEVI D. YODER Dublin, Bucks County, Penna. E 7834 Copyrighted by L,evi D. Yoder Dublin, Pa. 1910 CONTENTS Natural and Artificial Indian Runner Ducks 11 Starting the Incubator 14 Transfer Ducklings 15 How to Make a Brooder 18 Care and Feed 19 What to Feed Ducks for Laying 21 Fattening Feed 22 Housing Ducks 23 To Obtain Best Results ; 26 Habits and Origin of Runners 27 Experience and Advice 31 In-breeding 36 Mating Your Pens 37 Another Form of Mating 38 Crossing Breeds 38 First Class Breeding Stock 39 Markings of Color 42 Formula for Growing Stock 47 Feeding Formula for Ducks 47 Formula for Laying Ducks 48 Fattening Formula 48 Dont's 49 Telling Diflerence in Sex 51 Marketing 51 Care of Ducklings 52 Laying Record for 1909 53 S. C. Black Minorcas 55 R. C. Black Minorcas 56 S, C. White Minorcas 57 S. C. R. I. Reds 58 Belgian Hares 59 Price 60 Terms 60 Buildings 61 Preparing for the Show Room 62 Eggs for Hatching 63 Details in General - 64 h, D, Yoder, Proprietor Triangle Poultry Yard Introductory Our original motive in publishing this little hook on Indian Runner Uncles was one of self defense, to relieve ourselves in a measure of our correspondence which was becoming much too large for the time at our disposal. After a long day's tpil, attending to the wants increasing flpeks of Runner's, which, need their daily attention, the last work would be looking over our daily mail ; letters and postals asking all manner of questions concerning prices, hatching, housing, feeding, killing, and many other questions. In detail, there are not hours enough in the twenty-four for our daily work and our correspondence. This book is published to relieve us of all manner of questions, still coming in far beyond our ability to answer. As this is our first edition our aim is to give you real facts with all our many experiments which meant time, hard labor, and money for your service at the cost of this book. In the few years we spent in rearing thes,e ducks we do not pretend to say that we know all, but by per- sistent efforts and careful selection in breeding, we have succeeded in developing an extra fine laying strain with the best markings' in color, carriage and size. We would say that there is no domestic bird under so perfect control,' so free from disease as the Indian Runner Duck. From the time the little bird is hatched until it is full grown and is ready to reproduce its own species it is under the perfect control of the intelligent operator, who. knows how t,o :pr-odiice. feathers, flesh and bones, and compels it to lay when from five to six months old. All this lies in the treatment, care and feed. If you perform your work rightly, the Indian Runner Ducks cannot help but lay eggs. On the other hand, reckless feeding and improper food for the little ducklings is disaster and sure to follow the operator. Select strong, healthy, vigorous stock; select best eggs, and set either hen or a good make of incubator, and with proper attention you cannot fail to succeed in rearing Indian Runner Ducks, either for pleasure, profit or fancy trade. With healthy, vigorous, parent stock, judicious care and food, there is no reason why good hatches of strong, healthy, young birds may not be obtained, and same matured with very little loss. However, I want to caution every reader of this book not to use any salt for seasoning the feed of your young ducks, as it will surely mean a loss of birds. NOTICE: Questions are cheerfully answered il a two cent stamp is enclosed lor reply. Natural and Artificial Indian Runner Duck Culture. It is only during the last few years that the value of the Indian Runner Duck has awakened the poultry inter- ests to their real value as a layer of large, green and white eggs of much* value. Their meat is one of the best for stewing, broiling, and roasting. Of late our physicians recognized them to be the most palatable meats, wholesome and nutritious, of all our flesh diets. Duck culture now assumes a most important part in the poultry business. The reason is very plain; people are just realizing that ducks can be raised better than chickens, with less loss, half the .labor, will mature in eight or ten weeks ready for market, and ready for lay- ing from four and one-half or six months, depending on the feeding and care the attendant gives them. Again we say there is no strain of poultry or ducks that will yield as many eggs as the Indian Runner Duck will if proper care is taken. They take less care and less feed than any other strain. Our markets are just learning the difference between the Indian Runner Ducks and all other strains. The Runner produces just enough fat to broil nicely and sweetly where other kinds are overfat, have a greasy taste, and the unfortunate housewife turns about three to four pounds into the waste bucket when the price, conside'red low, is twenty cents a pound, but when put in the waste bucket it means from sixty to eighty cents. 12 All kinds of inquiries are received daily as to their habits, how to incubate, raise, house, feed and care for them. As there seems to be very little published about the work and handling of the Indian Runner Ducks and to meet all these answers and inquiries, in pure self de- fense and .through earnest persuasion of my many friends, I sh$t\; to the bes^tof my ability, endeavor to explain in detail my experience in handling this strain of ducks. What I give you -m' this little book is not hear-say or what others say about them, but my real experience and success, for fancy, utility and eggs, and as a fine table dish. I shall confine myself almost entirely to an exposi- tion of the artificial methods. However, they can be reared just as well with broody hens in a small way, only the reason I confine myself to artificial rearing is a shorter road to success. - The majority of people say : ' ' Can they be raised on city lots ? ' ' Yes. They can be raised anywhere .that you can raise chickens. They will lay and do well with' a bucket or fountain of water before them to drink. It is not at all necessary for them to have a nice pond to do well. However, if you have a pond of water they will enjoy it very much and their plumage will be nice and clean at all times, whereas with a fountain their appearance is more dirty looking. If properly fed and housed, the result is the same as with a pond. The pond is always an extra expense on the operator. However, there are failures with almost any business, and the one who plunges headlong into it with- out seeing ahead, finds himself short on the ledger ac- count when it is too late to recover. Go slow in the « beginning, whether you start with hen or incubator. When you have them hatched do not become reckless and think they will take care of themselves. Give them 13 their proper care from start to finish, as you never saw a finer sight than a lot of 25 or 50 Indian Runner duck- lings running from feed to fountain and fountain to feed until their meal is finished. They are all ready for a good rest in the shade or sun as the season of the year may. be. I will state right here that if you are not in favor of working early and late sometimes and afraid of getting your fingers soiled, you had better not start in the poul- try business. While the work is not so hard, yet there is always something to look after. However, if you in- tend to do your part and disappointments come, it will soon tell of what kind of. material you are made of. Then is the time to make up your mind that you will not make the same mistake the second time, and I am sure when you once have confidence in yourself that you can avoid these errors and you will soon take a fancy to the duck business. It may not pay you at the start but if you stick to it, your success will be sure. 14 Starting the Incubator First, buy some good incubator. Do not buy a Cheap-John machine, but a good make. Select clean, even sized Indian Runner Duck eggs, fill your machine and then leave the eggs in the incubator. Do not touch them for two and one-half days. Then take them out and turn eggs from this time to the eighteenth day for chicks and twenty-six for ducks. Turn the eggs twice daily when your machine is running at 102 deg. , first two weeks, and 103 the remaining time. At these points you should keep your incubator, if it is a hot air machine ; cooling is essential. By the sixth or seventh day the testing should be done, also at the 14th day the second testing and a good cooling, say one-half hour, depend- ' ing on the season of the year. The best care should be taken the first week in handling your eggs, as your whole hatch depends on how many eggs are carried in fertility the third and fifth day; if you examine a clear white egg at this time by holding it before a strong light or tester, the blood veins will show. The veins resemble a spider's web. These veins are the forming of a chick or duck- ling, and if shaken or jarred too hard will break the webs and your egg will not hatch. At the seventh or eighth day you will see real blood rings circled and the egg is no good. As stated before, care must be taken the first week, so as to maintain the highest percentage of fertil- ity. The second week they need more cooling, third week longer; last week longer, cooling up to the 26th day for ducklings. Do not open incubator until hatch is over, and that should be on the 28th day for duck- lings. At this time you can leave air into incubator, or open door part way so as to harden your ducklings. . ~JS Transfer Ducklings Transfer ducklings to hens or brooder. Your suc- cess depends on your first week's handling of these ducks, as their lives are very tender and great care must be maintained. We do not claim that our rule is the only way to handle them, but we do claim that if our rule is carried out your death rate will be very small. How- ever, good judgment must always be the foresight as to weather conditions. Indian Runner Prize Winning Drake, 16 1? A flock of Indian Runner Ducks at 13 weeks old. few special matinga in fawn and white. 18 How to'Make a Brooder Take a box six inches high and two feet long/sixteen inches wide. Remove top; also take off front of box. This front strip that you take off, rip into one slat two and one-half inches wide and another one inch wide. The two and one-half inch strip nail to front of box lower end, and the one inch strip at top. That will leave an opening for the ducklings to pass in and out^of^ three inches. This brooder is large enough for 35 to 50 ducks two weeks old. The top of this, saw into one inch square strips and nail together the size of your brooder. Then tack on in a loose way, the size of your frame, cheese cloth. This will form a cover for the brooder, and can be removed to clean out. Your ducks must now be taught to go in and out Put meadow hay or clover chaff on bottom, and ducks as a rule, will soon take notice. The operator can teach them their place in a few days. 19 Care and Feed Transfer ducks to your brooder. Give water first day, say four or five times, but no feed until the last time in the evening. Their water must be put into a fountain so that the ducklings do not get wet all over. Do not allow them to soak up in water; just give them enough to drink. Then lay an empty burlap bag before them and put their feed on bag. I will give you two forms for first week. Use a good mixed chick feed, principally half corn and wheat with Hen-E-Ta, and grit the size of granulated sugar. We have a standard make that sells for $2.75 per 100 pounds. This feed is used for seven days. The first week we feed four times a day, giving them a very small quantity thrown on the burlap bag. The first few r days you must watch your ducklings and see that the weaker ones get their share of feed. Posi- tively feed nothing else. But your ducks must be on a grass plot ; if you have no grass plot, feed salad cut very fine after first week. Feed only what they will take in a short time, then remove all greens and feed. Keep your flock hungry and lively until the seventh day, when you can branch off on a short meal at noon of a mess mixture with fine grit. 20 4 parts bran i ' ' oat meal i " corn i ' ' middlings i ' ' beefscraps 2 " green clover (cut fina) Feed this for three or three and one-half weeks and change the mixture to form No. three. 3 parts bran i ' ' corn meal i ' ' best middlings i to 3V2 parts beefscraps V2 green food (all they will eat clean at once") grit By eight or ten weeks of careful feeding, your ducks should be full feathered and are now ready to turn to the fattening pen. Turn all you want to sell for market into this pen, however, don't fatten unless you can sell as you have them ready, as it only takes one ot two weeks to fatten as some will take on fat much quicker than oth- ers. Kill best birds first. Fill up your fattening pen as you take out. The remaining young breeders intended for breeding, keep feeding with feed No. two. How- ever, catch a duck and examine, if too fat cut down corn meal and feed more bran. About November 1st, as to age of your ducks, or when six months old, you can change feed for laying. 21 What to Feed Ducks for Laying Laying ducks are fed twice a day with form No. four as follows : i part bran % ' ' sugar feed i " com meal i ' ' best white middlings % " beefscrap (good) Vi ' ' green alfalfa meal i " fine cut clover The beefscraps and cut clover should be soaked in water from one meal to the other. When ready to feed add bran, corn meal and middlings. Never overfeed your layers. Gauge yourself in this way : Should your ducks have some feed left over from one meal skip one feed or feed a smaller quantity at one time. When once you get your ducks laying, never'change your feed on your layers. However, you must gauge yourself as to season of year. Keep your layers fat enough to lay but not too fat. Catch one by the neck now and then and examine it. Your egg yield will all depend on the ope- rator who feeds them. One person should feed at all times so as to never get their bill of fare changed, how- ever, if you have potatoes, beets, cabbage, or any green food, you can give it in small quantities for relish in the morning. The proper time to feed these layers is at noon. Give them just enough feed to consume atjonce and look for more. In the evening give them all they can eat and have some to nibble at during the night. Have a bucket of water or trough all [the time to drink. The operator should be cautious at certain seasons of the year. When freezing, do not feed more than just what they will eat up clean. When very warm, the mess wil} 2J soon sour. Either one, frozen or sour feed, will sour their stomachs and cause trouble. It is all up to the op- erator, as there are no hardier ducks living than the In- dian Runners, and none that will respond in their egg yield better than will the Runner. Get busy, study their nature, and you will find pleasure and profit in raising these ducks and a good bank account. Fattening Feed Form No. Five. 2 parts bran 4 ' ' corn meal i ' ' middlings V2 ' ' beefscraps Give them very little green food, if any, as all de- pends on their appetite. u Housing Ducks These ducks require no expensive buildings. It is all according to what the operator can afford to build. The building that has a good floor above ground with hay or straw on it, three sides closed, front open, slant roof, is all that is required. As to the yard, a two feet high wire netting, and two inches mesh, is all that is re- quired to keep them within their bounds. A building 1 2 feet wide and 20 feet long is large enough for 50 ducks. The front opening of the building should face to the south. Up to this time we have never found any disease among the Indian Runner ducks. I would insist on every poultry raiser to try a pen of Runners, and see how soon they will find a good credit account with their Runners at less work than with hens. 24 m ■ \ 'H ; * m >?; »•■ ■• .*- .- i.'«*»v ■ p\j Sp j - - . ■*. ■ "-yMju 'A^Pk-rS 25 This photo shows three pens of young Runners at age of 4 w§eks, 6 weeks and 8 weeks old. Also Mr. Yoder, Prop. 26 To Obtain Best Results To obtain the best result in egg yield of our Run- ners they must be yarded or housed at night until the next morning, eight or nine o'clock. Then give them a free range in grass and shade. At noon give them a small meal or what they will eat up clean at once. Do not overfeed at noon, but in the evening induce them to take all you can, give them enough and have some left to nibble at during the night when closed up. You should have them crammed full of feed and ready for a good night's rest, ready in the early morning to drop all their eggs by nine o'clock. Then vou will find them as lively as crickets, all ready for the pen to open, and out they go for their morning free range ; and you will find them busy until noon when they will all come back to the house for a good rest and noon meal. After opening the house in the morning, the operator can gather all eggs, clean up the house and give fresh water. He should not go to the duck house until 8 or 9 o'clock, as it will disturb them in laying. Every precaution should be taken to exercise his daily work and watch his flock of Runners. There are verv few drones among the Run- ners if handled carefully. I venture to say there is no hen or duck in these progressive days that is so easily controlled to produce the number of eggs with the same amount of feed and labor, and a good bank account is in vour favor. . 27 Habits and Origin of Runners This family of waterfowls is credited with originating in India and is adapted to either cold zero weather or a very hot and dry summer. It is thought they derived the name Runner, from their habit of running along the ground like a Plover, which is a very handsome and stylish bird, of erect carriage. It was introduced into England over fifty years ago, and at White Haven, where it soon established a reputation as the most prolific of egg makers and layers. It is only a few years, however, since its introduction into this country. Here too it sets the pace in egg production. In England it is credited with individual records of 225 to 250 eggs per annum; in America with a record of 200 to 225, in flocks of ten, and 190 eggs *in flocks of 100. I myself, a breeder of Runners for six years, heretofore bred them only for pleasure, but find them to be profitable, and intend breeding them hereafter in large flocks for their egg yield. I myself have had an average of 180 eggs per annum, and. I am convinced the time is not far distant when I can report a much larger record. The secret lies in what to feed, when, and how much, and the Runner cannot help but lay large, white and green shelled eggs, of a most delicious flavor. Many prefer them to hens' eggs. For. use in baking they are especially highly es- teemed, being superior to hens' eggs. Six years ago I read an article on the Runner, wherein the writer stated that the time was not far distant. when the Runner would outlay any breed of hens. However, I decided to try them. I bought a lot of eggs from a breeder in Wash- ington, about 2400 miles distant from my place of busi- ness. I was in the general merchandise business then and I got them merely as a side line for pleasure and 23 pastime. I received the eggs all O. K. , set them under the hens and in 28 days I was surprised to find a lot of RUnttefs hatched. I managed to raise nearly all. Allow rne to tell you they were a live set of youngsters and all who saw them took a fancy to them. I sold all the eggs for hatching but could get only about 15 cents per dozen market price. By this time I had lots of eggs and no sale, so I concluded I would try a large poultry house in Philadelphia, oil Market Streets. I Went there in person to See the buyer and in my mind I thought I had a won- derful offer to present to them: However, to the con- trary, as soon as I rhehtioned indi&i Runner ducks he put up his hands and said, " They are positively N. G. (no good). Their eggs don't sell for more than market price." You cart judge how I felt on the situation, with my money invested and a lot of eggs on hand. The dUcks just kept on shelling out the eggs and 1 sold them all at market price and a few settings for hatching. At the end of the season I found my Runners much ahead of my hens in egg production. 1 concluded to try a dif- ferent method of selling. I ventured into advertising in poultry papers with a classified adv. However, sales were very few the first year. The second year sales in- creased and the third year was also better. The fourth year Of Advertising I sold all the eggS but a few And the fifth year I was unable to fill all orders. I turned away all orders Amounting over 100 eggs. Among the orders turhed down were three orders Of 100O eggs each. At this Writing I am making provision to build dUck build- ings for my Runners to keep a flock large enough to fill all egg Orders rahging from one-setting to idoo or more for hatching. A single swallow does hot make A sum- mer, nor does an Indian Runner make a Fortune in a year, but the poultryman who sticks to the breed vear 29 after year, will find that with proper care they will well repay him and he will not be disappointed in breeding this fowl. The Runner has come to stay, and I venture to say that the time is not far distant when they will stand alone at the top of the ladder, where the Leghorns stood eight and ten years ago. Where are they today? They are raised by millions for their large egg yield. The In- dian Runner in a few years, will far exceed the egg yield of the Leghorn hen. The Indian Runner is the second Leghorn. The strain is improved far above the Leg- horns as an egg producer. As a fall and winter layer they are especially valuable when once started to lay about November 15th or December 1st, and the opera- tor is careful in their feed, houses them properly, as cold to their feet is the same as a frozen comb to a hen. Have bedirig of straw or hay so that they can rest at will, and at other times ' can play and splash in snow or water, which they enjoy very much. Higher prices in winter for their eggs is another credit to their account. The eggs average about six to six and one-half to the pound. Early hatched birds, with proper care, will start laying at five to six months and will lay a month and then take a rest; and now is the time to take good care. If you get them too fat, you will have trouble. When you have once started with your bill of fare, do not change the feed, only feed less or more, whichever it may be Catch a duck and examine it. I know of no other breed that can be controlled by the operator as can the Indian Run- ner Duck. A Runner is good for laying for five or six years; other ducks play out in two years. Hens also play out in this time. The Runner is very healthy and vigorous, not sub- ject to lice, roup and all the ailments that hens are sub- ject to. Their color is fawn and white. They are very 30 erect and keep out of your way but just as tame. As meat producers, especially for home market or small family trade, hotels, restaurants, etc., they cannot be excelled, as the flesh under one year old has no equal in delicacy. It is of a deep yellow, much firmer in texture than that of a Pekin,£with deep breast. The carcass will dress at about four to four and one-half or five pounds, and while not so fat as the Pekin, it is fat enough to cook in its own fat. The Indian Runner does not find swimming water essential to a successful life, however, they do enjoy a pond of water, and their plumage looks much better. Their drinking vessels should be three inches deep at least and must have all the drinking water they need. The standard weight of a Runner drake is four and one-half 'pounds and a duck four pounds. Their plum- age is dark and light fawn and white. Remember when you raise the Indian Runner duck for killing as broilers, much is gained by picking these ducks as their feathers are almost as easy to pick as a hen's, when scalded with hot water in a bucket or tank, when picked dry these feathers command a good price. There is always a ready sale for nice, clean feathers. . 31 Experience and Advice While we find much pleasure in raising these ducks and especially when young, however, do not think that raising ducks is only making money and no work. Your work is never finished until you get out of the business. The work, however, is of such a nature that you can al- ways find something to do. Feeding should always be done at a regular hour for each feed and drinking water, cleaning of houses, etc. , should be done when the ducks are out of their houses. Never dig a post hole in the yard where your ducklings are unless you fill it at once or cover it; if you don't do it, you will find all your ducklings piled in the post hole, as it seems they enjoy something like that. All these little trifles occur now and then, and this is what gives the blues. However, if you are afraid of work and getting your hands dirty and the blues sometimes, you had better not start. How- ever, anyone in fair health can manage a nice flock of Runners and make a good living with a good sized bank account. However, this depends on the size of flock you handle. 32 38 Residence of proprietor of Indian Runner Duck Yard, Mr, and Mrs, Yoder and their pet horse, 34 35 Model Poultry, Hare and Duck House, combined under one roof. Two stories high. Upper story is used for Yoder's Black and White Minorcas; lower floor is tor our famous layers of Indian Runner Ducks. Another above the ducks, elevated 3 feet, is our Rufus Red Belgian Hares. This house when full has a capacity of 400 to 500 hens; 300 to 400 hundred ducks and 200 to 300 hares, with feed- ing room and water. All feeding is done inside of the building under one roof. The two open sheds are for duck feeding. The building is 64 ft. long. 16 ft. wide, 14 ft. high in front and 12 ft. h,gh in rear, covered with rubber roof- ing. Mr. Yoder, proprietor of Triangle Poultry Farm is standing in front of building. 36 In= Breeding I have always advocated the selection of the largest and best shaped birds for breeding. However, this holds good to color also. Many times I am asked why my birds run so large. The above method gives me the birds I am looking for. However, this would not hold good in in-breeding were I only to run one drake and a few ducks, but breeding from my pens, by selecting the best, I produced the strain I now have. I am sure that many persons who from a mistaken idea have introduced new blood, have reduced . both the size and quality of their stock. However, do «ot breed from one small pen only to gain size and quality; If you breed longer than one season from your first pen, you will in-breed very fast, and your size and quality is soon destroyed, but the one who keeps different yards and always selects the best birds from different yards, can breed many years with impunity because the intermingling of blood is exactly jnverse ratio. _____ 37 , Mating Your Pens In mating, as stated before, one must select one old dra^e from pen No. i, second old drake from pen No. 2, third old drake from pen No. 3, and fourth old drake from pen No. 4. This gives \ ou a pen of four old drakes. Then select six very best young ducks from pen No. 4, six from No. 3, six from No. 2 and six from No. 1 ; put No. 1 drake to six young ducks in pen No. 4 in regular order. This pen contains four old drakes and 24 young ducks, making a pen of 28 head. In a pen of this size you will find that the second y ear y our eggs of this pen will run better in fertility and brinsj strongest ducklings. It all depends as to the size of the pen and the number of years you can breed from this pen but for best results one should not breed longer than two years and then mate another in the regular order outlined. However, if your room is limited for breeding pens you may breed a few 3 ears more and still maintain larger and better birds than by introducing new blood and destroy- ing the good qualities you have. You can hold quality and size better by sending to same breeder where you received your parent stock. By explaining to him just what you need, whether y ou need an old drake or duck as the case of mating pen may be, he should know by the information the buyer gives, just what his customer needs for best results. 38 Another Form of Mating Select four old drakes^in regular order as first mating pen given. Then select two or three old ducks in regu- lar order given. Then select three or four very best > oun» ducks, selected from first, second, third and fourth pens and mate all together, making 28 head in the pen. You can just reverse the case and head this pen by young drakes. However, the young drakes should be at least ten months old and twelve months is still better, as they must be very active for good results. One must be very careful in ira'-.ing. This last pen can easily be confused in the selection of your breeders. Crossing Breeds We know by crossing one breed with another we get our different varieties of breeds. However, I would caution the beginner or the one who does not understand to work out all details to better not try it as it is at your expense and many a time the loss of a very valuable flock. 39 First-Class Breeding Stock. Select the very best or procure from 'some reliable breeder your foundation stock. Better buy only a few good birds than to buy a lot of late hatched scrubs with same amount of money. However, the late birds may do all right for laying eggs, but for breeding they are a disappointment and loss of time and money. When I say good stock, I mean the best utility stock you can afford. Don't buy fancy stock and pay big prices for exhibition stock unless you intend to use them for that purpose, as the best utility stock will produce just what you need and may capture a few prize winners at the same time. In this way you will work out good strains of Indian Runner Ducks that will command good prices and a ready sale if properly advertised. Notice: Questions are cheerfully answered in this book if a 2c. stamp is enclosed for reply. 40 4i Breeding House No. 2. Photo shows 60 Famous Indian Runner DUcks with some extra fine markings. Large, vigorous birds, May hatched. , 42 MARKINGS OF COLOR. My Views on the Marking of Indian Runner Ducks. With all the printed matter which is now circu- lated through our journals about their markings, you will remember stated in another chapter, and I will uphold it as an American breeder, and will give my reason for it, that dark and light fawn or ginger fawn and white is the color. Why do I uphold it? Because it is the standard of to-day. The committee that got out our present Standard of Afarkings has done fine work. Foreign laws are different from American laws. As an American, citizen I must abide with our American laws. The same is true with our American Standard of Perfection, and I think the committee has done just right in giving us ginger fawn and white. We know there are many breeders who think differently, but there never will be a committee than can please everybody. We know that the English breeder says the true markings are a fawn laced or penciled and white color, and if you import you will get that color, because they claim that in their Standard of Perfection. They have a right to claim it, but they have no right to come over on our American soil and say we must have the same markings. They say, why not have the- same stand- ard? I might just as well say, why not have the same laws as England? As soon as the committee on that work sees fit to change it with the majority of breeders, I am sure they will do it. The breeders of laced marking claim that breed is more true in carnage, form and color, and all white eggs, more hardy birds, etc. As a breeder fer six years, I find 43 no difference whatever. I have been working on laced colors to get all white eggs and to my surprise I got green and white eggs at certain times. How this occurred I am unable to solve. However, for my part I would prefer all white eggs, and up to this time I know of no breeder who can guarantee every egg white. If there is such a breed I would like to have them. However, to whoever may read this book I will say, take it for granted that the color of eggs is only shell deep and as far as quality goes there is positively no difference. They all have the same flavor. The operator can change the flavor in eggs by feed- ing. In the ginger fawn and white duck I find no difference in their daily life. They are just as hardy and lay just as many eggs. It is all in the feed, how and when, and what you feed, and we hope our American Standard is upheld by our true, honest, poultry judges. Up to this time the Indian Runner Duck was not sought after, but the time is not far distant when our poultry journals will have more to print. Nor is the time far distant when we shall have a wonderful change in our large poultry plants for eggs. Why? Because the Runner will produce more eggs at less cost than a hen, is healthier, its laying qualities are good up to five and six years; however, the older they get the lighter their plumage becomes. However we are breeding both strains, American Standard, also English Standard. We must to fill our orders; we could not get along without breeding both strains, American and English Standards. We hope we have made this chapter clear so our 44 w fK'^'f H 45 This photo shows a group of Yoder's Famous Indian Runner Prize Winners. May hatched, large, vigorous birds. 46 readers will not become confused in starting with the Indian Runner Ducks. We hope they will soon reach the mark they deserve. The Runner is a non- setter. Some get broody during July and August, but by penning them up one day they are generally broke up. Take them the first day they get broody and break them up at once. This will save you trouble and will start them to laying at once. 47 Feeding Formulas for Ducks. FORMULA No. 1. First Week. A well balanced chick feed of cracked corn, cracked wheat with Hen-E-Ta grit. Feed four times daily. Little at a time, as much as they will eat up clean at once. Then branch off gradually on formula No. 2. FORMULA No. 2. Mess. 4 parts good bran. 1 part rolled oats. 1 part corn meal. 1 part middlings. y 2 to 1 part beef scraps. 2 parts young green clover cut fine. Feed this three to three and one-half weeks. Not too wet — a heavy mush form. FORMULA No. 3. Growing Stock. 3 parts bran. 1 part corn meal. 1 part best white middlings. 1 to 2y 2 parts beef scraps. 1-3 part green food (corn leaves, green rye, green clover or whatever you have at the time. Cut fine). Feed three times daily. 48 FORMULA No. 4. Feed for Laying Ducks. 1 part bran. y-i part sugar feed (Buffalo). 1 part corn meal. 1 part best white middlings. yi part beef scraps. J4 part green alfafa meal. 1 part fine cut clover. Soak alfafa, beef scrap and clover from one meal to another. Feed three times daily. Fattening Formula. No. 5. 2 parts bran. 4 parts corn meal. 1 part white middlings. Yz part beef scraps. Very little green, if any. All depends on appetite. One week to ten days are required to fatten. All these feeding formulas should be well mixed in such quantities as to have a supply on hand at least two to three weeks. A box one foot square and five feet long, ends slanting, with slats on inside, hung on center, will mix feed by turning over. 49 DONTS. 1. Don't spend all you money to buy eggs or breeders. Save enough for feed and buildings. 2. Don't buy exhibition birds, but the best utility stock you can afford. 3. Don't get the "blues" if your stock will not respond by an egg yield in two weeks, or four weeks. 4. Don't let young ducks get wet on their backs under four weeks, but give them all the water they can drink. 5. Don't overfeed at any time. 6. Don't feed any kind of formula offered and think your ducks should do well. 7. Don't feed whole grain at all times. You can keep your ducks alive, but you get a few eggs only. A little some times as a relish is good for them. 8. Don't leave the dogs or children chase your ducks around their yards. 9. Don't frighten your Runner, as her disposition is wild, but she can be made to be just as tame. 10. Don't set your cluck eggs under a lousy hen. 11. Don't fail to give them all the drinking water they need in their pen. 12. Don't change your feed on laying ducks if they lay well a whole season. 13. Don't forget the grit hopper. They need it. 14. Don't mate more than six ducks to one drake. 15. Don't leave your ducks range over your whole farm. 16. Don't forget to handle your ducks by the neck when you are handling them. 17. Don't feed your cull ducks over winter. It doesn't pay. 50 18. Don't leave your ducks roam all night if you want lots of eggs: Confine your ducks to your lay- ing house until 9 o'clock in the morning. 19. Don't keep your duck eggs four to six weeks and think they will hatch well. Set them fresh for best results. 20. Don't give more than eleven eggs to one set- ting hen. If you do, it is your loss. 21. Don't think that you can't succeed with ducks; you can. Try it and be convinced. 22. Don't forget that eggs kept in a room with temperature from 75 to 85 degrees spoils an egg in three to four days. 23. Don't leave the drakes kill your ducks during hot July days. When the egg season is past, separate sexes in separate pens. 24. Don't fail to give your ducks a trough of water four or five inches deep when five or six weeks old. 25. Don't forget — 25 ducklings in one pen for best results. 26. Don't fail to use a little black pepper for sea- soning their mess. Especially if they have diarrhea. Cayenne pepper should be mixed with the black. 27. Don't forget that sprouted oats are the best greens you can give your breeding ducks and young. _^ §1 Telling Different Sex. The drakes can be told when seven or eight weeks old by the curl in their tail. Also larger head and has more straight carriage. The duck as a rule is smaller and by the sound of the noise she makes one can easily discern her sex. Marketing. These ducks for roasting have no equal. They can be made ready for marketing in six to eight weeks, and by hatching your young so that a hatch comes off every week you have eight pens. Every week your ducks are changed from pen Xo. 1 to pen No. 2, and pen No. 2 to pen No. 3, and so on in their regular order, which saves labor and at the same time you have every pen filled. Killing and dressing is much easier with Indian Runner Ducks than with any other strain. They pick almost like a hen. When scalded there is no difference. As a rule they dress very nicely and command good prices. There is always a ready sale for them. Great care should be taken in dressing your broilers and ducks. Have them look nice and clean. You should have a tub of cold water ready to put all ducks into as soon as picked. This will give them a nice color. It all depends on how- well your ducks look when dressed to command the highest market price. All feathers should be saved and kept clean, as they will pay for picking and there is always a ready sale for them. 52 Care of Ducklings. The best care of ducklings should, be taken. We told you how to make a brooder. Transfer/your duck- lings from incubator to your brooder. Leave them in this brooder three weeks and then transfer them to a larger run and colony brooder, made 3 feet wide and 5 feet deep, floor raised from ground 6 inches, front 2}/ 2 feet high, back 18 inches high, sides and back boarded solid, front open 2 feet, with mice net- ting over to pen ducklings up during night, to keep out dogs, skunks, etc. Have your ducklings clean. Give them straw on floor. From five to eight weeks your ducklings will be a lively set and should have a grass run. The ground around your feeding troughs will soon get muddy. Change places as your ducklings will soon get crusty, which will stop them from growing. Ducklings six to eight week old should take a good bath after their meal. They should have a trough of water four or five inches deep to take their bath after meal. Have a regular time for meals, three times daily, and have each to contain about twenty- five to thrity ducklings for best results. However, you can have fifty or sixty to a pen. Hut you will find that the smaller ones will soon be trampled over and will die. You will always find different sizes in a pen of fifty. You had better cull out the smaller ones to save the death rate. At the age of six and seven weeks there is a mighty scramble over one another and this can only be avoided by making your pens smaller in number. 53 Laying Record for 1909. , in 1909 I had a pen of sixteen layers of Runners. Their average was 180 eggs each. The ducks were four and five years old. In 1910 I had a pen of thirty layers. Their age was four, five and six years. Note the age of these ducks and their record. These ducks Will lay more eggs first and second year, but my testing record is of old ducks, which everybody claims of other strains of ducks are not worth their feed for keeping as layers over the second year. Not so with the Runner. They are good for six and seven years for layers. Please note amount of eggs laid each month by thirty layers five and six years old. Eggs. February 13, 1910, amount laid for month.... 51 March, amount laid for month 728 April, amount laid for month 801 May, amount laid for month 787 June, amount laid for month 682 July, amount laid for month 621 August, amount laid for month 543 Total 4,213 September 1, 1910. At this writing my ducks are laying. Sixteen and seventeen ducks are laying every day and at the same time are starting to moult, and we expect to keep them laying just as long as we can, regardless of the moult. Prices of Breeders and Eggs. Indian Runner Ducks from my best pen containing my prize winners. 54 Pen No. 1. Pen No. Single Drake (utility) Single Duck (utility) . 11 eggs $2.50 30 eggs 5.00 50 eggs 8.00 ... 11 eggs $1.25 30 eggs 2.50 50 eggs 3.50 100 eggs 6.00 1,000 eggs 55.00 .$1.50 $3.00 . 1.50 3.00 Exhibition birds 5.00 10.00 $15.00 Eggs packed and birds crated F O. B. our shipping station. Cash with order. (Post office money order.) 55 S. C. Black Minorcas. £«££» The S. C. Black Minorcas are to-day too well known to need any lengthy description. Minorcas are the largest of the Mediterranean Class and their large size gives them the advantage over other non- setting breeds. The modern bird is large in outline, well bodied, stands well on its legs, broad chested and has a long broad back. The Standard weight for S. C. Minorcas is nine pounds for cock, seven and one- half pounds for cockerel, seven and one-half pounds for hen and six and one-half pounds for pullet. For weight and number and size of eggs no one can deny that they are ahead of all other breeds. Eggs IS for $1.50, 30 for $2.50, 100 for $7.00. '~"~ 56 R. C. Black Minoreas. Rose Comb Black Minoreas are similar to Single Comb Black Minoreas. Their Standard weight is cock eight pounds, cockerel six and one-half pounds, hen six and one-half pounds and pullet five and one- half pounds. Their eggs run very large and white. R. C. Black Minoreas eggs 15 for $2.00, 30 for $3.50, 50 for $5.00. Single utility birds $2.00 to $5.00. Exhibition birds $5.00 to $15.00. Notice : Questions are cheerfully answered from this book if a 2c. stamp is enclosed, 57 S. C. White Minorcas. S. C. White Minorcas have not been treated justly. They deserve more credit than they get because we find them to be a much better bird than the Black, lay more eggs and larger pnes. Their Standard weight is the same; as the R. C. Black. All we ask is give them a trial. , '"«■"* "••'"' S. C. White Minorca eggs, 15 eggs $2.00, 30 eggs $3.50, 50 eggs $6.Q£>. ■, Single utility birds $2.00 to $5.00. Exhibition birds $5.00 to $15.00. 68 S. C. Rhode Island Reds. Single Comb Rhode Island Reds are too well known as to their good qualities as layers and easy to raise large, vigorous and healthy birds. Their Standard weight for cock is eight and one-half pounds, cockerel seven and one-half pounds, hen six and one-half pounds and pullet five pounds. We have a fine pen mated for good results. The cockerel is a fine, vigorous bird, with a good red color and un- dercolor fine. Hens -and pullets are a shade lighter in color. This pen will bring you good results. 15 eggs $2.00, 30 eggs $3.50, 50 eggs $6.00. Single utility birds $2.00 to $5.00. Single exhibition birds $5.00 to $15.00. 59 BELGIAN HARES Pedigreed Belgian Hares differ from all other hares and rabbits. Their ears are longer, eyes larger and more prominent. A full grown Belgian Hare weighs from eight to twelve pounds. Their meat is white, juicy and tender; breed very young, producing their young every six or eight weeks and from four to eight at a time. They require very little attention. Clover hay and oats are their principal foods. They should have salt once a week. Keep their hutches clean and dry. We breed the Rufus Red variety, as they are the most popular. Our does and bucks for breeding are separate blood and insure strong, healthy stock. We have stock for sale at all ages. You will find- pedigreed breeds in our rabbitry. Among them may be found such blood as buck and does, Fred sired by Red Mile, sired by Hamilton Chief, also by a Crys- tal Palace winner. $25.00 Buck Fred by Buckeye, Nell and Queen Bess, also a Crystal Palace winner. Doe Luch sired by Lord Wallace and Hamilton Chief, 60 etc. Doe Lucy by Queen Bess and Lady Gold Dust, etc. Priced. 2 months old, per pair. $1.50 3 months old, per pair , 2.00 4 months old, per pair 2.50 6 months old, per pair 4.00 We will guarantee our own careful selection. Value received for your money. Terms. Remittances must accompany all orders by regis- tered letter or post office money order. Address all remittances to Levi D.' Yoder, Dublin, Pa. We can- not ship stock C. O. D. Be sure your name, post office, express company, county and state is plainly written. We ship stock in as light coops and crates as possible so as to save express charges for our cus- tomers. Goods are shipped F. O. B. at our shipping station. Express must be paid by purchaser. Please remember that the best mated pen in the world will not produce all prize winners. Reference: First National Bank, Perkasie, Pa,, as to my standing. However, always enclose 2c. stamp when writing for a reply. 61 Buildings. Buildings or houses for ducks all depend on how much you want to invest or can afford. Tp build a proper house for the Indian Runner Duck, it does not require a very expensive house. However, it does depend on the operator to have it convenient to feed. Also have a trough of water. Ducks should be kept clean. Have for them bedding of meading hay or straw. Your house should be well ventilated and in freezing weather the house should be closed so that the eggs will not freeze. A house twelve feet wide and twenty feet long, slanting roof one way, back of house four feet high, front seven feet high, six feet long is a good size. Two spaces should be left open in the front with a piece of canvas tacked over it so as to close it when it rains or snows. On clear days open this house. This house will be large enough for fifty to seventy-five layers. Another convenient house is thirty feet wide and the length as long as you may desire, 100 or 500 feet. Have eave sides four feet high, roof slanting both ways and gable end should be eight feet high. This gives the operator a board- walk through the center of building* and should be elevated eighteen inches. This will give all the floor space to your ducks or you can make pens smaller and make path for operat- or even with floor. This will make a house that is easily cleaned, ducks have free range and it is most convenient for the operator, as one has full view through the house from one end to the other, 62 Preparing for Show Room. This part is in favor of the Indian Runners. Have a box or tub so that ducks can take a good bath them- selves, and if you give them a good washing once that is all that is required unless you leave your ducks get crusty, when they will require more washing. As a rule the Runner seems to know that you want her to carry an erect carriage with head up, which indicates she is true to what she is charged with. However, the Runner needs more training or handling than do other strains of ducks. The Runner has that wild disposition, and she must be handled very gently so that she knows that you will do her no harm. Handle her often. Take her from the coop, train her just as the judges do, so that when the time for judging comes that she is ready to be handled when the judge opens the coop for judging. It will pay you to do this work. Otherwise she may fly around in the coop and break some of her best feathers or the judge is unable to judge her as well as if she were more tame. If wild, the judge is always in too much of a hurry to coop her up ajid the judge will not do her justice. The best way is to coop the Runners one week and handle them often but very carefully, and you will be well paid for your work you have spent in training her. 63 Eggs for Hatching. This is a very important matter. Those who have the eggs for sale will tell you eggs that are four to nine weeks old are all right. If you want a strain very badly, and you are unable to get fresh ones, they are better than none, but you may not succeed in getting the strain. Otherwise always use eggs as fresh as you can. Best records will show that the eggs' were freshly laid, one, two and three days old, and laid in one clay from one flock. If you use partly fresh eggs and partly week old eggs, there is a difference in incubation as to hatching of those chicks or ducks. Uniformity in size, not too small or too large, all depends on the selection of your eggs for a good hatch. Eggs intended for hatching should always be kept in a cool place, ducks eggs especially, as the fer- tility will change at a temperature of about 85 to 90 degrees and will be worthless. A duck egg will spoil in three or four days at the above temperature. The best temperature is from 45 to 50 degrees, and eggs may be kept from two to three weeks. However, run no chances. Set as fresh as possible to have best re- sults. Duck eggs should never be over four days old to ship. Transportation does not affect eggs unless too extremely hot or cold, as the case may be. 64 Details in General. Always handle your ducks by the neck. Grasp a quick grab by the neck. In this way you will never injure a duck when sorting them or when you want to catch your ducks. The best way is to have a corner in your yard and have a three foot wire netting fast- ened pr stretched from one side to the other. In this way you can easily catch birds with the least com- motion. Otherwise you may have a loss of a good bird in trying to break away from you. A duck can run so fast and no faster. She will be so much fright- ened that she cannot run at all and will lose control of her feet, and if the chase is kept up any length of time it will ruin her so that she will not be able to walk. The weaker ones are more subject to this; however, you can kill your very best ducks in this way. It is best to keep dogs and children out of the duck pen, as a chase of your ducks may soon reverse your bank account. Xever feed your ducks with salt, as salt mixed with your feed may kill all your birds that partake of it. When salt is used, it should be dissolved in water first. However, ducks need no salt. If you want to kill your ducks, just feed them salt. It works like poison. A duck poisoned will have no use of her legs and cannot walk, and will soon die, and if you will examine her gizzard no trace can be found of what killed her. The Runner ducks are very fond of apples, and if apples are crushed and fed once a day it will lessen your feed bill. All kinds of greens, cut fine and mixed in their mess, will help their growth. Green cut rye, green clover, sugar corn stalks, and all cut very fine, . — ■ agaa i; T-?^r~- ■ ; £_■_* all they will eat up cielh at once, green rafe, sugar beets, cut very fine, is very good for them. During the winter when all other greens are gone, cabbage, potatoes (boiled), alfafa, clover meal soaked with your mess, also fine cut clover soakjbd from one meal to another in a tub or bucket, will be enjoyed by them and will lessen your feed bill into half. When once you get your ducks laying, never reverse their feed whatever the combination may be. If you do, your egg flow will stop:' "Watch your ducks and only feed all they will eat up clean at once, except the last feed in the evening. Feed only at noon and evening for the best results. Have water to drink all the time, as a duck is never satisfied unless -she can slop in a little water and have everything wet. Ducks should never be cut down with their feed too much when moulting. If you do, you rat chances of losing some and it may be your best ducks. I find by not chang- ing the feed of the layers I get the best results, as they keep laying (a big portion of them) even when half' of their feathers are gone. By keeping my feed the same, they pass through the moult and are ready to lay again in a short time after the moult. At this writing, September 28th, my ducks are laying a few eggs and are moulting. I am now giving them free range; however, by November 1st, I house them in their winter quarters and start to feed them a little more fattening feed so as to get them laying about December 1st or 15th. Be very careful not to get them too fat. If you do, they will not lay until late in the spring. This will be a loss to you. This can be avoided by careful feeding. 66 P. S. — Every time a new edition of this book is printed it will be enlarged, containing my ex- periments with my I dian Runners.