Km^*^=:
mmm
'V*»o
teaching, has given him singular qualifications for so
important a task. He here opens a bountiful storehouse of knowledge, and
Ignorance, alone, is barred from its use. To lessen this ignorance, to bring
the best knowledge of home affairs to the reach of all, to make every mem-
ber of the household acquainted with such facts as can be profitably used —
this has been the high aim of the author. He has in one book condensed, in
brief yet simple and comprehensive language, what all should know of the all-
important subjects, he treats. It is done in one volume of such size ■ that all
can use it.
The author needs no introduction to the reading public. In the capacity
of author and journalist his constituency has for more than a quarter of a
century been the whole American people — his name everywhere a household
word. Nor is it confined to the limits of our own country; former books, the
product of his pen, have reached the phenomenal sale of 50,000 copies beyond
the confines of the American continent. His practical work has thus won its
way to every English-speaking people.
The publishers venture to congratulate the public, on this work — the master-
piece of his matured years and experience. His design to bring in a single volume
the greatest possible amount of information which all ought to possess, but which
is to be obtained elsewhere only in works so voluminous and expensive as to
render it inaccessible to the great masses, has been executed in a way to mark it a
triumph, and the result is a work certainly calculated to make its way. It is — as
its title indicates — a library in itself. It is confidently believed by the publishers
that a work of so much scope, judgment and taste in the treatment of subjects
(in)
IV PUBLISHERS PREFACE.
SO interwoven into the purposes and the successes of the lives of the great people
will be received by them with unusual and hearty favor.
The plan of illustrating every subject by pertinent, striking and well-executed
engravings, will not fail to impress every one with its great value. The pictorial
artist has lent his aid to the trenchant writer and together they impart a singular
force and clearness that will render the book not only of easy understanding,
but of most ready practical application.
As a conspicuous example of Object-Teaching, as applied to the every-day
affairs of home life, combined with apt, perspicuous written statement, it will
impress itself favorably upon the most educated as well as less informed classes of
society, who have not time for elaborate reading.
It is said that he is a benefactor who makes two ears of corn or two blades
of grass grow where one grew before, and in such light, it is believed that the
production of this book will prove a veritable benefaction — the result of its teach-
ings practically serving this end.
The book is not made up, as is the case with too many books for the house-
hold, as a thoughtless compilation with the aid of the scissors, from other authors,
but is the work of a profound student of the subjects of which he writes, whose
long life assiduously devoted to these subjects enables him to sift the grain from
tbe chaff, and to present only such facts and directions as are of actual utility in
the home. Coupled with this rare qualification is the use of a facile pen, for
nearly forty years devoted to these subjects, which gives to the treatment a style
at once concise, chaste, forceful and pleasing — one of easy comprehension by the
most unlearned.
Believing that it has unusual claims to popular favor, and that it will conduce
to the welfare and success of all who may consult its pages and be governed by
its teachings, it is committed to the consideration of the public with pride as well
as confidence.
THE PUBLISHERS.
AUTHOE'S PEEFAOE.
^HIS book is intended for tlie average American citizen — for the Household and
the Farm. It is intended for the man of work and business who has not the
time nor disposition to plod through scores of volumes of elaborate dissertations
on the subjects touching the affairs of his every-day life. It is dedicated to the
household and the library of the poor. It is designed for the use of the father,
the mother, the son and the daughter of the American family. It is hoped that
by its teachings and use they will all fulfill the pui-poses of their lives and labor
better — more successfully — more happily. If so, and by its directions and simple
teachings the man and woman of work will be led to labor with more intelligent
thought, and more pleasure and profit, the author will be abundantly repaid.
The principles which underlie success or failure in the affairs of business or
society are so momentous as to deter any one from undertaking the task of outlining
them. But, encouraged by the flattering and really unexpected success and favor
with which former works by the author have been received, the labor of preparing
this work was undertaken.
The information can not fail to be of general, even universal value. Because
one has lived on the farm, or managed a household, it is no reason that eitBer has
been done to the best advantage. So long as we see the many instances which
occur of men, long experienced in business, failing, we may properly conclude
that all is not yet known that needs to be known by even the experienced and
the fairly successful; and it is quite probable that many, whom, by reason of
the length of time they have been in business, the world regards as wise and
skillful in managing their affairs, have yet much to learn.
The aim of the author has been to produce a book which will give to all, who may
'honor it with their attention, advantages of information and knowledge not possessed
heretofore in any ordinary library, and never in one volume, and which fathers
may place in the hands of their wives, and their families, with the commendation
that it contains the essence of the combined experience of generations of practical,
thinking men; and that wisdom to which Solomon alluded when he said, "The
merchandise of it is better than the merchandise of silver, and the gain thereof
than fine gold."
(V)
VI AUTHOR S FUEFACE.
In the preparation of the work the object has been to preserve a clear and
systematic arrangement of the several subjects, giving to everj'^ fact such plain
statement as would make it of easy understanding, and its application made alike
easy. To this end the work has been divided into eleven distinct departments,
according to general subjects — these departments into chapters, which are again
carefully subdivided, so as to make the whole of easy reference and consultation.
In furtherance of this end an elaborate alphabetical index is appended so that in
matters of frequent and general reference it will be most convenient.
Its Objective Presentation by means of Charts, Maps, Drawings and Diagrams
of all the more important features, adds, it is hoped, force and strength to the
written word to materially aid the understanding.
As a combination of Object-Teaching with simply written instructions — the
methods of imparting knowledge so successful in our best schools — it is certainly
more full than any book or combination of books yet published concerning the
many important subjects embraced. The value of this double method of con-
veying fact to the, mind through the eye by accurate and elegant illustration — as
well as by simple word — cannot well be over-estimated. The perusal of the
following pages and the effort to reduce its teachings to practice will, however,
impress one with the admirable utility of this illustrative method of imparting
practical fact.
The prodigal liberality and broad enterprise of my publishers ha-^e, at an
expense truly enormous, enabled me to utilize this superb method to an extent,
which, I think I am safe in saying, has never been attempted in a book of like
practical character in this or any other country. For this I am pleased to acknowl-
edge my indebtedness, and believe I am in the bounds of truth when I say that
every reader will be disposed to recognize a similar obligation.
To preserve in the written text a style and method of easy comprehension,
which will be in keeping with the accuracy, simplicity and elegance of the illustra-
tion, has been the constant effort. Whether this important end has been attained >
it is the province of the reader to decide.
One idea that has sustained the author in the immense labor involved in the
preparation of this volume is, that he may thus be useful to those living in the
country districts, many of whom have no access to large libraries, and by inade-
quacy of income are prevented from largely increasing their own. The hope has
been to put within their reach a volume which, because of its wealth, variety and
suggestiveness, shojild be a practical every-day library in itself.
author's preface. VII
Of matters concerning Live iStocJc no mention has been made except those of
Farm Building, and Agricultural Law as connected therewith. In a previous work in
connection with Dr. A. H. Baker, V. S., the author prepared and published a large
book on the animals of the farm, the extraordinary success of which encouraged the
preparation of this work, which is designed as a fit companion volume. Combined
they cover, practically, it is believed, the entire subjects of Household and Farm
interests — the one appropriately supplementing the other. In both it has been the
aim to sift from the great mass of information, statistics and suggestions, in
contemporary and newspaper literature, only, those matters of actual interest and
every-day usefulness, and condense into space the most convenient for a hasty
moment's reference; and yet to retain all necessary details to reward the leisurely
perusal and study of the book with interest and great profit.
It is believed that, whether read by the man of business, the farmer, the
mechanic, the housewife, or the child, it will be a source of profitable knowledge,
entertainment and pleasure.
For special assistance in my work I desire to acknowledge my obligations
to Messrs. Fuest & Bradley, of Chicago, who have made Farm Machinery a
special study; to Mr. J. C. Vaugiian, of Chicago, widely known as an adept
in all that pertains to general Floriculture; to Messrs. Ellwangee & Baery, of
Rochester, N. Y., who have a world-wide reputation in what pertains to the
Nursery, Ornamental and other' Trees; to Mr. H. DeVey, Superintendent o^
Lincoln Park, Chicago, for many ideas in Landscape Work and Ornamental
Planting; and also to Dr. Loeing, Commissioner of Agriculture, at Washington,
than whom no one has a truer practical knowledge of the manifold necessities
of progressive Agriculture. The assistance asked has in each case been promptly
and cheerfully accorded.
To Mr. E. C. Simmons, of St. Louis, President of Simmons Hardware
Company, the brilliantly successful man of business, I am likewise indebted
for the use of many valuable cuts, illustrating, practically, the text in Third
and ninth Departments.
Trusting that it will be favorably received, I commit my book into the hands
of that critic whose judgment has been so partial to my previous efforts, and which
is deemed the best, most important and final — the practical reading public.
JONATHAN PERIAM.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Part I.
THE laOME AND FARM.
MAKI^TG CONVENIENT, COMFOETABLE AND HAPPY HOMES. ANCIENT AND MODEEN
AGKICULTUEE ILLUSTRATED AND COMPAEED. IIMPEOVED FAEM LMPLE-
MESTS AND MACHINEEY. PEIXCIPLES .iND PEACTICE.
CHAPTER I.
BUILDIXG HAPPY HOMES.
I— Contrasted Pictures. II— The Ideal Country Home. Ill— The Farmer's Wife. IV— The
Overworked Wife. V — Sons and Daughters on the Farm. VI — Youthful Activity VII. —
Adorning the Home. VIII — Improving the Homestead. IX — Sports of Childhood. X —
l^essons from the Garden. XI — What we Hope to Teach 33
CHAPTER II.
ANCIENT AND IIODEKN AGRICULTURE.
I— The Value of Books. II — Agriculture Among the Savages. Ill — The Arizona Indians. IV —
Mound Builders. V — Agriculture Defined. VI— Its Divisions. YIl — Its History. VIII —
The Books of Mago. IX — Mago on Working Cattle. X — Eome's Agricultural Wfiters.
XI — Chronicles of Columella. XII — Ancient Farms and Implements. XIII — Cultivate
Little, Cultivate Well. XFV — A Fancy Farmer. XV — Arable Lands and Pastures. XVI^
Watei- Meadows. XVII — A Eich Meadow. XVIII — Eoman Eotation. XIX — Roman Small
Grains. XX — Some Ancient Methods. XXI — Antique Crops. XXII — Crops Pulled by
Hand. XXIII — Fallow Crops. XXIV — Ancient ^Harvesting. XXV — Eoman Fertilizers.
XXVI— A Question not yet Settled. XXVII— Little and Often. XXVIII— Commercial Fer-
tilizers. XXIX— Ancient Plowing. XXX— Plows. XXXI^Seeding. XXXII— Yield Per
Acre. XXXIII — Mediaeval and Modern Agriculture 44
CHAPTER HI.
MODERN FARM IMPLEMENTS.
I— A Eevolution in Fifty Years. II— The Pioneer's Plow. Ill— The First Steel Plow. IV—
The Webster Plow. V— The Plow of To-day. VI— The Art of Plowing. VII— Laying
Out the Land. VIII— Turning the First Furrow. IX— The Back Furrow. X— Ee-Plowing.
XI— Subsoil Plowing. XII — French Plowing. XIH— Implements for Smoothing and Disin-
tegrating. XrV— Leveling, Compacting and Grinding. XV— The Plank Soil Grinder. ■
XVI— The Leveler. XVII— Implements of Cultivation. XiVIII— History of the Cultivator.
XIX— One-Horse Cultivators. XX— Seeding Machines. XXI— The Grain Drill. XXII—
Corn Planters. XXIII— Hai-vesting Machineiy. XXIV— Use Only the Best. XXV— Plow-
ing Irregular Areas 31
IX
X TABLE OF COXTEXTS.
CHAPTER IV.
PRIXCIPLES AXD PRACTICE.
I— Study Your Farm. II— Analysis of the Soil Unneeessaiy. Ill— Soil Does Xot Wear Out.
IV— Organic and Inorganic Matter. V— Economy of Fertilizei-s. Yl— Practical Test of Fer-
tility. YII— Eolation and Crops. YIII— A Simple Botation. IX— Effect of Bad Seasons.
X— Elaborate Eotation. XI— Grass-Seed and Meadows. XII— An Eastern ^lan on Kotation,
XIII— A Sontliern Planter's Testimony. XIY— Eolation in Europe. XY— Substitution in
Kotation. XYI— Potash and Phosphate Crops. X■\^I— Soft and Hard Ground Crops.
XYIII— Science in Agriculture. XIX — Ignorance vs. Intelligence. XX — Soils and their
Capabilities. XXI— Percentage of Sand in Soils. XXII— Absorbing Powei- of Soils. XXIII
— Absorption of Oxj-gen by Ihe SoU 75
PARX II.
PEACTICAL A>y'D SYSTE^SIATIC HUSBAXDEY.
CEEE.U. CROPS AXD THEIR CUI.TIA'A'nOX. GEASSES, FODDEE .\XD EOOT CROPS.
SILK CULTURE— SPECIAL CROPS. CROPS FOR SUGAR MAKIXG.
VARIETIES ILLUSTEATED ^VXD COMPARED.
CHAPTER I.
CEEEALS AXD THEIR CULTIVATION.
I— The Cereals Described. II— 'Wheat and Corn Belts. lU— Corn In the United States, n''—
Different Kinds of Wheat. Y — Yariations Illustrated. YI — Proper AVheat Soils. YII— Pre-
paring the Soil. VIII— Drilling Gives the Best Results. IX— Depth of Covering for AVheat.
X — Time to Seed and Hai-vest. XI — Harvesting Wheat. XII — How to Shock the Grain.
XIII— Importance of Good Seed. XIY— Pedigree Grain. XY— General Conclusions. XYI
— Artiflfial Cross Fertilization. XYII— Eeputable Old Yarieties in the United States. XYIII
— Rye and its Cultivation. XIX — Barley and its Cultivation. XX — Time for Sowing Barley.
XXI — Harvesting and Threshing Barley. XXII — Xew Yarieties of Barley. XXIH- Oats
and their Cultivation. XXIV— Export of Food Crops. XXV— Species of Oats— their Lati-
tude. XXVI — Soil and Cultivation of Oats. XXVII — Harvesting and Threshing Oats.
XXYIII — ^^'arieties of Oats to be Cultivated. XXIX — Biiekwheat. XXX — Seeding and
Harvesting Buck\vheat 89
CHAPTER H.
IXDIAX COEX, EICE, AXD SPECIAL CROPS.
I — The Crop in the United States, n — How to Increase the Average. HI — Proper Manures for
Corn. lY — The Cultivation of Corn — Plowing. Y — Preparing the Soil. VI — Planting the
Crop. YII — Harrowing the Young Corn. YIII — After Cultivation of Corn. IX — How Often
to Cultivate. X — Depth of Cultivation. XI — Harvesting the Crop. XII — Cutting and
Shocking. XIII — Seed Corn. XIY — Cost of a Corn Crop. XV — Yarieties of Corn. X"\'l —
Rice and its Cultivation. XA'Il — True Water Rice, or Commercial Eice. XVIH — Cultivation
of Eice in Carolina. XIX— Management of Eice Fields. XX— Cultivatiug the Crop. XXI
Flooding the Crop. XXH— Harvesting and Threshing. XXIII— Hulling for Market. XXIV
Eice in the Mississippi Delta. XX^'— Some Special Crops 109
TABLE OF CONTENTS. XI
CHAPTER III.
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES.
PAGE
I— The Value of Grass. II— What is Grass? Ill— How to Know Grass. IV— Testing the Value of
Species. V — The Value of Accurate Knowledge. VI — Well-known Cultivated Grasses. XIL —
Grasses for Hay and Pasture. VIH — Alist of Good Grasses. IX — ^Valuable Native Western
Grasses. X — Disappesfrance of Native Grasses. XI — Valuable Inti'oduced Grasses, South.
Xn — Bermuda Grass. XHI — Guinea Grass. XIV — Brome or Rescue Grass. XV — Seeding
Meadows. XVI — The Alphabet of Agriculture. XVII— Sowing for Hay and for Pasture.
XVIII — The Celebrated Woburn Experiments. XIX — ^A Summary of Meadow Grasses. XX —
About Pastures. XXI — Genera, Species and Varieties. XXH — Favorite Pastm-e Grasses.
XXin — Bent Grasses. XXIV — Orchard Grass. XXV — Grasses for Various Eegious. XXVI —
Clover in its Relation to Husbandry. XXVII^The Seed Crop. XXVIII — Valuable Varieties
of Clover. XXIX— Dutch, or White Clover. XXX— Alsike, or Swedish Clover. XXXI—
Clovers for the South— Alfalfa. XXXII— Japan Clover. XXXIII— Mexican Clover. XXXIV—
Importance of the Pulse Family. XXXV — Interchange of Grasses Between Nations. . . . 132
CHAPTER IV.
SOILING, FODDER AND ROOT CROPS.
1 — Soiling Compared with Pasturing. H — Soiling Indispensable in Dairy Districts. HI — Soiling
as Against Fencing. IV — How to Raise a Soiling Crop. V — Corn and Sorghum for Soiling.
VI — The Clovers as Soiling Crops. VII — Millet and Hungarian Grass. VIII — Prickly Comfrey.
IX — The Advantages of Soiling. X — Results of Soiling in Scotland. XI — Root Crops for
Forage. XII — Things to Remember in Root Culture. XIII— Preparing for the Root Crop.
XrV — Sowing and Cultivating. XV — Harvesting Root Crops. XVI — Pitting and Cellaring the
Roots. XVn— The Ai-tichoke 167
CHAPTER V.
SILOS AND ENSILAGE.
I — What is Ensilage? II — Silos and ETisilage Long Known in Europe. HI — Two Methods Illus-
tiated. IV— The Father of Ensilage. V— Fermentation Should be Avoided. VI— What
Ensilage May do. VII — The History of Ensilage. Vni — Feeding Value of Ensilage. IX —
Ensilage in the United States. X — Effects of Fermentation in the Silo. XI — Size of Silos
for Cei'tain Number of Stock. XU — How to Build a Silo. XHI — Practical Experience and
Results. XIV — Perfect Food and Rations. XV — Some Statements of the Quantity Fed.
XVI— Cost of Ensilage in Massachusetts. XVII— Building a Model Silo. XVIII— Practical
Conclusions fi-om Careful Experiment 17S
CHAPTER VI.
TEXTILE CROPS AND FIBERS.
I — Cotton: Its History and Cultivation. II — The Family to which Cotton Belongs. HI — The Soils
for Cotton. IV — History of Cotton Cultivation in the United States. V— Increasing Import-
ance of Cotton. VI— Cotton by States. VII— The Climate for Cotton. VIII— The Best Cot-
ton States.' IX— The Cultivation of Cotton. X— Preparation of the Soil. XI— Tending
the Growing Crops. XII— Flax and its Cultivation. XIII— Proper Soil for Flax— Seeding.
Xri TABLE OF CONTEXTS.
PACK
XIV— Harpesting Flax. XV— Hemp and its CultivaUon. X^T— Raising a Crop of Hemp-
Seed. XVU— Eaislng Hemp for Lint. XVIU— The Time to Harvest Hemp. XIX— Kottiug
and Breaking for Market. XX— Conclusions on Flax and Hemp. XXI— Jnte ajid its Cultiva-
tion. XXH- Growth and Harvesting of Jute. XXIII— Prepai-ing Jute Fiber. XXIV— The
Kamie Plant in the United States. XXV— Soil and Planting. XXVI— Eamie is a Perennial
Plant 194
CHAPTER yil.
SILK AXD SILK-WORMS
I— Silk Culture in America. 11^— Silk Producing Insects. HI — From the Egg to the Moult. IV—
Varieties of the Silk-worm. V — Keeping and Hatching the Eggs. VI— Preparing to Feed the
Worms. VII — Feeding and Care of Silk-worms. VIII — Moulting or Casting the Skin. IX —
W^jnding Frames on 'Which the Worms Spin. X — ^Killing the W orms. XI — Eeeling the Silk.
XII— Mai-keting Cocoons and Eggs. XLII — Food of the Silk-worm. XIV — Raising Mulberry
Trees 211
CIL^lPTER VIII.
SPECIAL CROPS — HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND S^^'EET POTATOES.
I— Hop Growing in America. II — Cost of Raising. Ill — Establishing a Hop Yard. IV — The
Proper Situation and Soil. V— Preparing for the Ci'op. VI— Trenching the Soil. VU —
Setting the Plants. VIII— Care of the Hop Yard. IX— Cultivation in Crop Years. X—
Picking the Hops. XI — Drying the Hops. XH — Management in the Kiln. XIII — The
Cultivation of Tobacco. XIV— Soils and Situation for Tobacco. XV— The True Tobacco
Belt. XVI — Raising the Crop South. XVII — Ti-ansplanting. Cultivating and Worming.
XVIII— The Seed Bed. XIX— Raising Plants Xorth. XX— Preparing the Land. XXI—
Planting at the Xorth. XXII— Proper ^Vay to Transplant Tobacco. XXIII— Cultivation.
XXIV— Cutting and Curing Tobacco. XXV— The Tobacco House. XXVI— Twelve Rules
for Tobacco Growers. XXVII— Peanuts, or Gouhers. XXVIII— The Cultivation for Pea-
nuts. XXIX— Gathering the Xuts. XXX— After Management and Care of Seed. XXXI—
Sweet Potatoes. XXXII— Field Culture of Sweet Potatoes. XXXIII— Keeping Sweet Pota-
toes in Winter. XXXIV— Garden Cultivation 223
CHAPTER IX.
CROPS FOR SUGAR-3IAKING.
I— Sugar and its Manufacture. II— Cane and Other Sugars Compared. Ill— History of Beet
Sugar in the United States. lA'— Our Two Great Sugar Plants. V— The Various Saccharine
Products. VI— The Three Sugars Compared. VII— Cultivation of Sugar-Caue. VIII— CuUi-
vatiou of Sorghvmi. IX— When to Cut Sorghum Cane. X— Cutting aud Handling the Cane.
XI — Specitio Gravitj- as a Basis of Value. XII— Specific Gravity and Composition of Jniccs.
XIII— Table of Juices. XIV— Value of Sorghum During Working Period. XV— Four Impor-
tant Points. XVI— Valuable Canes South. X\ai— The Real Test of Value. XVIII— Table
of Comparative Values During Working Period. XIX— The Manufacture of Sorghum. XX
— Making Sugar on the Fai-m. XXI— General Conclusions. XXII— Maple Sugar, XXIII—
Tapping the Trees. XXIV— Boiling and Sugaring. XXV— Sugaring Off. XXVI— To Tell
When Sugar is Done. ... 246
TABLE OF CONTENTS. XIII
Part III.
AiiRANGEMENT OF FAEMS.
HOW TO SECURE COMFORT AND PROFIT IN THE HOMESTEAD. FENCING AND
DRAINAGE ART. FARM IMPROVEMENTS ILLUSTRATED. AND EXPLAINED.
CHAPTER I.
COMFORT ANB PROFIT IN THE HOMESTEAD.
PAGE
I — Pioneer Fanning. H — Improving the Farm. Ill — True Success in Farming. IV — Look to
the Details. V— Thrift and Unthrift Illustrated. VI— How to Select a Claim of Land. VH—
Commencing the Farm. YHI — The Crops to Raise. IX — The Second Year's Crops. X—
The Third Years "Work. XI— Wind-Breaks and Groves. XII— Starting the Orchard. XIII
— How to Clear a Timbered Farm. XIV — Making a Clearing and Building the House. XV
— Carrying up the Sides. XVI — ^Putting on the Roof. XVII — Building the Fireplace.
XVni— Chinking the House. XIX— Deadening Timber* XX— The Work of Improvement. 271
CHAPTER II.
FARMS AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT. LEADING.
I_Soils Indicating Variety of Crops. II— Adaptation of Soils to Crops. Ill— Adaptation of Crops
to Localities. IV— Starting a Dairy. V— When to Sell the Crop. VI— Study the Probabili-
ties. VII— ^Vhen to Hold the C)-op. VIII— How to Select a Farm. IX— Important Things
to Consider. X— Situation of the Farm. XI— Some Things to be Remembered. XII —
Leasing a Farm. XIII— Forms of Lease and Certificate. XIV— Plan for Laying Out a Farm.
XV— A Garden Farm 286
CHAPTER III.
FENCES, HEDGES AND GATES.
I — Relative Cost of Fences and Buildings. II — Cost of Farm Fences in the United States. Ill —
The Cost of Fence Per Rod. IV — AVorra, or Vh-ginia Fences. V — Staking and Ridering the
Fence. VI — Post and Rail Fence. VII — Preparing the Timber. VIII — Mortising the Posts
and Sharpening the Rails. IX — Setting the Posts. X — Fastening the Rails and Finishing.
XI — How to Build a Board Fence. XII — Sti-inging a Wire Fence. XIII-rSod-and-Ditch
Fence. XIV — Compound Fences. XV — Portable Fences. XVI — Fencing Steep Hillsides.
XA'II— Bars and Gates. XVIII— The Slide and Swinging Gate. XIX— Swing Gates and
Slide Gates Explained. XX— Self-Closing Slide Gates. XXI — Southern Strap-Hinge Farm
Gate. XXH— Double-Braced Gate. XXIII— Adjustable Swing Gate. XXIV— How to Pre-
vent Posts from Sagging. XXV — Ornamental Gates. XXVI— Flood and Water Gates.
XXVII— Stream Gate and Footway • 29S
CHAPTER IV.
FARM AND ORNAMENTAL HEDGES.
I_Tho Poetry of Hedges. II— Advantages and Disadvantages of Hedges. IH- How to Prepare
the Hedge-Row. IV— Setting the Hedge. V — Finishing the Planting — Cultivation. VI —
Trimming the Hedge. VII — Ornamental Hedges. VIII — Ornamental Plants for Hedges.
IX How to Plant the Hedge. X — Care of Deciduous Hedges. XI — Trees for Barriers and
Protection "''
XIV TABLE or CONTENTS.
CHAPTEE V.
DRAtNAGE AND THE DRAINER* S ART.
FACE
I— The Importance of Draining. II— The Antiquity of Drainage. Ill— Ancient Writers on Drain-
age. IV — Drainage Among the Greeks. • V — Drainage Defined. VI — Drainage Among the
Komans. VII — Drainage by French Monks. VUI-^Some Fathers of Modern Drainage. IX
—The Origin of Tile. X— Practical Men on Tile Drainage. XI— A Dry Surface May Need
Drainage. XII— What an Ohio Farmer Says. XIIII— Draining in Indiana. XIV— Draining
in Michigan. XV— Illinois Experience. XVI— A Right and a Wrong Way for Open Drains.
XVII— Stock Water from Drains. XVIII— How to Excavate the Pond. XIX— Drainage and
Fences. XX— The Formation of Underdrains. XXI— Various Means of Drainage. XXII —
Stone-Laid Drains 324
CHAPTER VI.
DRAINAGE AND THE DRAINER'S ART Continued.
I— Slab and Pole Drains. 11— Tile Drains. Ill— Laying Out the Work. IV— Draining Tools.
V— Grading the Ditch. VI— Leveling the Bottom. VII— Challoner's Level. VIII — Ijcveling
froTn the Surface. IX— Altering the Grade— Silt Wells. X— The Water Carried by Tile.
XI — Capacity of Soils for Water. XII — Velocity of Water in Tiles. XIII — Connecting Lat-
erals with Mains. XIV— Draining a Field. XV— "HTien it Pays to Drain a Farm. XVI —
Sinks and Wallows. XVII— Springs, Soaks and Sloughs. XVIII— Draining Large Areas.
XIX— Lands Requiring Drainage. XX— Wet Weather Plants. XXI— How to Know Lands
Requiring Drainage. XXII — Importance of Drainage to Stockmen 340
PART IV.
RUEAL ARCHITECTURE.
ILLUSTRATED PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR VILLAGE AND COUNTRY HOUSES.
.BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER'S ART. INCLUDING EVERY GRADE
OF RESIDENCE, OUT-HOUSES, GARDEN AND ORNAMENTAL STRUC-
TURES. MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM.
CHAPTER I.
PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES.
I— Building According to Means. II— Improving the Old Homestead. Ill— An Elegant Country
Home. IV— Farm and Suburban Cottage. V— When to Build. VI — The Provident Farmer's
Marriage Settlements. VII— How to Build. VIH- What to Build. IX— Taste and Judgment
in the Details. X— Where to Build". XI — A Hillside Cottage. XII— Ice-House and Preser-
vatory. XHI- The Water Supply. XTV- House Drainage. XV— Ventilation 361
CHAPTER II.
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER's ART.
I— Building Material. II— How to Make Unburned Brick HI- Specifications of Farm and Other
Buildings. IV — Outline of Specifications for House of Wood with Stone or Brick Founda-
tions. V— Masonry and Mason's Work. VI— Carpentry and Carpenter's Work. VII
TABLE OF CONTENTS. XV
Page
Painter's Work. VIII— Tinner's and Plumber's Work. IX— Contract for Performance of
Obligations. X — How to Consult an Architect. XI — Glossary of Scientific Terms Used in
Architecture 376
CHAPTER III.
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES.
I— Farm Houses and Cottages. H — Cottage for Farm Hand. HI — Square Cottage. IV — Subur
ban or Farm Cottage. V — A Pretty Eural Home. VI — A Convenient Cottage. VH— Farm
House in the Italian Style. VIII — English Gothic Cottage. IX— Plan of Kural Grounds.
X — School-House and Church Architecture. XI — Cliildren's Wigwam. XII — Eustic Seats
and Summer Houses. XIII — Some Rural Out-Buildings. XIV — Poultry Houses and Chicken
Coops. XV -Glass Structures. XVI— Smoke-Houses. XVU— The Farm Ice-House. XVIII
— Privies and their Arrangement 393
CHAPTER IV.
BARNS, STABLES AND CORN-CRIBS.
I— Grouping Farm Buildings. II — A Complete Cattle-Feeding Barn. IH— Horse and Cow Barn
with Shed. IV — Suburban Carriage-House and Stable. V — Sheep Barns and their Arrange-
ment. VI — Hog Barns. VII — Granaries, Corn-Houses and Corn-Cribs. VHI — Kat-Proof
Granary and Coru-Crib. IX — Corn-Cribs with Driveway. X — Section of Western Corn-Crib. 414
CHAPTER V.
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM.
I— The Farm Workshop. II — Mechanics' Tools on the Farm. Ill — Arrangement and Care of
Tools. rV" — How to Keep Farm Implements. V — Sharpening Tools. VI — Proper Way to
File an Implement. VII — Repairing Common Implements. VIII — The Farm Paint! Shop.
IX — Putting lip Hough Buildings. X — Shingling a Eoof. XI — Making a Hay Eack. XII —
Stone Fences. XIII — Moving Heavy Stones. XIV — For and Against Stone Walls. XV —
How to Build the Wall. XVI— The Balloon Frame in Building. XVII— How to Build the
Frame 426
Parx V,
HORTICULTURE.
VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION OF FRUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. THE PRACTICAL
ART OF GRAFTING AND BUDDING. LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LAND-
SCAPE TREES. COMMON SENSE TIMBER PLANTING.
INCLUDING FISH AND PISH CULTURE.
CHAPTER I.
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
I — The Farm Orchard and Garden. II — Arrangement of the Home Orchai-d. Ill — How to Pre-
pare for an Orchard. IV — Laying Out the Orchard and Planting. V— When to Buy Trees
and When to Plant Them. VI — What Varieties to Plant. VII — Apples, their Cultivation and
XVI TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAGE
"Varieties. Vm— Pears, tlieir Varieties and Cultivation. IX— The Forms of Fruit Explained.
X— Peaches. XI— Nectarines. XU— The Cherry XIU— Picliing and Packing Orchard
Fruits. XIV— The Small Fruits. XV— The Vineyard. XVI— The Grapes for Farmers.
XVII— Cultivation of the Cranberry 445
CHAPTER II.
GKAFTING AND BUDDING.
I— Grafts, Cuttings and Seedlings. H- The Grafter's Art. Ill— How to Graft. IV— Tools for
Grafting. V— Grafting by Approach. VI— Grafting Old Orchards. VU— Cutting and Saving
Scions. Vin— Grafting Wax. IX— Budding. X— When to Bud. XI— How to Prepare the
Buds. XII— How to Bud. XUI— Spring Budding. XIV— Time to Cut Scions. XV— Grafting
the Grape 481
CHAPTER III.
VEGETABLE GARDENING.
I — Economy of the Garden. II — How One Man Became a Gardener. Ill — Starting a Market
Garden. IV— Troughs for Forcing Plants. V— The Number of Plants to Eaise. VI— The
Hot-Bed. VII— Laying up the Hot-Bed. VIII — Market and Kitchen Gardening. IX — Water
and Ventilation. X — How to Have Early Khubarb. XI — "Take Time by tho Forelock."
XII — What to Kaise for Market. XIII — Economy in Cultivation. XIV — Preparing Vegeta-
bles for Market. XV— How to Eaise Potatoes. XVI— -'Planting in the Moon." XVII—
Potatoes Illustrated 491
CHAPTER IV.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
I — The Flower Garden. II — How to Cultivate Flowers. Ill — Select List of Flowers for General
Cultivation. IV — Biennial and Perennial Flowers. V — Summer Flowering Bulbs. VI —
Flowering Plants and Vines — Koses. VII — Flowering Shrubs. VIII — Climbing and Trailing
Shrubs. IX — ^Flowering Trees. X — Everlasting Flowers and Ornamental Grasses. XI —
Water Plants. XII— Trellises . . 507
CHAPTER V.
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
I— The Landscape Gardener's Art. II — Studying Effects. Ill— Design for a Village Lot. IV —
Design for Secluded Grounds. V — Trees and Terraces — Tree Protectors. VI — Laying Out
Curves of Walks and Drives. VU — Laying Out and Planting Flower Beds. VIII — Landscape
Effects. IX — Trees for Landscape Planting. X — Tropical Plants 535
CHAPTER VI.
FISH AND FISH PONDS.
I— Fish on the Farm. II — ^Fishes for Cultivation. Ill — Kiver and Pond Fish and their Time for
Spawning. IV — The Families of Kiver and Pond Fish. V— Rules for the Transportation of
Fish. VI— Artificial Fish Breeding. VII— Hatching the Fish. VIII— Fish-Hatching Boxes.
IX— Breeding Fish in Ponds. X— Carp Breeding. XI— How to Form the Pond 557
CHAPTER Vn.
COMMON SENSE TIMBER PLANTING.
I_Thc Ecotiomy of Timber. II— What Timber EeaUy Does for a Country. Ill— What Timber
to Plant. IV — Our Experience in Tree Planting. V— The Poetry of the Forest 570
TABLE or CONTENTS. XVII
PART VI.
INSECTS AND BIEDS IN THEIE RELATION TO THE FARM.
mSECTS IXJUKIOUS AND BEjSTEFICIAL. ILLUSTKATED CLASSIFICATION OF IKSEOTS.
REMEDIES AND PREVENTIVES AGAINST DAMAGE. BIEDS
TO BE FOSTEEED OE DESTROYED.
CHAPTER I.
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE FARM.
PAGE
I — Practical Value of Entomology. 11 — Destroying Insects on Nursery Trees. Ill — Orchard
Culture in Relation to Insects. IV — Care of Trees in Relation to Insects. V — Predatory
Birds and Insects. VI— The Study of Insects. VII — The Classification and Anatomy
of Insects. VIII — Divisions of Insects According to their Pood. IX — Noxious and Injurious
Insects. ; 579
CHAPTER II.
INSECTS INJUEIOUS_ AND BENEFICIAL.
I — Plant-Lice. II — Scale Insects. HI — Plant Bugs. IV — General Means for Destroying Bugs.
V — Eemedies for Chinch-Bugs . . .... .... . 595
CHAPTER III.
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN.
I — Insects that Prey Upon Grass. II — ^Insects Injuring. Clover. Ill — Clover-Leaf Beetle.
IV — The Army Worm. V — Vagabond Crumbus. VI — Insects Injuring Grain. VII — The
Sorghum "Web- Worm. VIII— Sugar Cane Beetle. The Smaller Corn-Stalls Borer. X— The
Eice-Stalk Borer. XI— Grass-Worm of the South. XII— Corn Bill-Bug. XIII— The
Corn or Cotton-Boll Worm. XIV — Eemedy for the Cotton- Worm, South. XV — Poisons
for Worms. XVI — The Hateful Grasshopper or Locust. XVII — Eemedies Against the
Grasshopper ' • . . . 617
CHAPTER IV.
OTHER DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS AND THEIR ENEMIES.
I — Insects Injurious to Trees. II — Insects Injurious to Coniferous Trees. Ill — Insects Injur-
ing the Grape. ■ IV — Insects Injuring Fruit Trees. V — Leaf Rollers. VI — Apple Tree
Case Bearer. VII — The Orange Leaf-^Notcher. VEH — Fuller's Rose Beetle. IX — ^Insects
Injuring Plants. X— Snout Beetles. XI— The White Grub or May Beetle. XII— The
Spanish Fly or Blister Beetle. XIII — Beneficial Insects— Lady Birds. XIV — Soldier
Beetles. XV— Tiger Beetles. XVI— Other Beetles and Parasites. XVII— Conclusions. . 637
CHAPTER V.
BIRDS IN THEIR RELATION TO AGRICULTURE.
I-rBiids in the Economy of Nature. 11— What Birds Shall We Kill? Ill— Food of Some
Common Birds. IV — Birds Classified by their Food. V — Birds the Natural Enemy of
XMII TABLE OF COXTEXTS.
Insects. VI— Birds to be CarefiiUy Fostered. VU— Bii-ds of Doubtful Utility. THI—
Birds to be Exterminated. IX — ^I)estroyiug Insects 651
P^RT VII.
FAEM LAW AXD ITS PEINTIPLES.
LEGAL FOEMS AXD OBLIGATIONS. AGKICULTUI?AL LAW. STOCK, GAME AXD FEXCE
LAW. SECUBES'G A HOMESTEAD. HIRING HELP, ETC.
CHAPTEE I.
FEIXCIPLES IX KURAL LAW.
I — Law Governing Farmers' Animals. H — Liability for Injury by -Dogs. lU — Trespassing
L'pon Property. IV — Division Fences. V — ^Kailway Fences and Trespass. VI — Kaihvays
Kunning Through Farms. XH — Public Roadways. VIII^The Rights of the Public in
the Road. IX — Avoiding Obstructions in the Road. X — Right of Way Over Lands of
Others. XI — Liabilitj- of the Farmer for his Servants. XII — Rights Relative to Water
and Drainage. XTTT — ^Liability of Dealers. , XTV — ^Hiring Help — Specific Wages. XV —
What Is a Farm ? XVI— Getting a Free Farm. ' XVII— The Public Land System.
XVni. Pre-Emption, Homestead and Timber-Culture Acts. XIX — Land Taken Under
the Three Acts. XX— The Desert Land Act. XXI— Land Yet Open to Settlers. . . 661
CELAJPTER n.
LAAVS RELATIXG TO AGEICtLTUKE.
I — Needed Reforms in Farm Laws. EC — Laws that Every Farmer Should Know. HI — Fish
and Game Laws. IV — Game Laws in Old and Xew Siate*. V — Laws Relating to Dogs.
VI— Stock and "Estray Laws. VII— Stock Laws of the Xew England States. VIH— Stock
Laws of the Middle States. IX — Stock Laws of the Southern States. X — Stock Laws
of the Western States. XI — State Laws Relating to Fences. XII — Fence Laws in Gen-
eral. XIH- Fence Laws in Xew England. XIV— Fence Laws in the Middle States.
XV — Fence Laws in the South. XVI — Fence Laws in the Western States. XVII —
Fence Laws of the Pacific Slope G74
CHAPTER m.
LAAV FOEMS RELATIXG TO BL'SIX-ESS TRAXSACTIOXS .
I Guarding Against Swindlers. U— Rules of Guidance in Business. IH — Rules Relating to
Banking. FV' — ^Indorsements. V — Forms of Xotes! VI — Judgment Xotes. VH — Due-
Bills, Receipts. Orders, Etc. VIH — Some Defenses Which May Defeat Payment of Xego-
tiable Paper. IX— Remarks Concerning Xotes. X— Drafts Explained. XI — Remittances.
Xn — Obligation for Married Women. XIH— Drawing up Important Papers. XIV— Short
Form of Lease for Farm and Buildings. X\' — Agreements Between Landlord and Tenant.
XVI— Wills. XVn— Power of Attorney. XVIII— Mortgage— Short Form. XIX— "War-
ranty Deeds. XX— Bills of Sale. XXI— Bonds. XXII— Arbitration. XXIII— Award
of Arbitrators. XXTV— Counterfeit Money. XX\'— Good Business Maxims. XXVI —
Some Points on Business Law. XXVII — Definitions of Mercantile Terms. XXVUT — •
Business Characters 703
TABLE or CONTENTS. XIX
Part VIII.
HOUSEHOLD AET AND TASTE.
BEAUTIFYING THE HOME. DKESS AND TOILET ART. THE NURSERY AND SICK
ROOM. RULES FOR THE PRESERVATION OF HEALTH. REMEDIES AND
PREVENTIVES OF DISEASE. COOKING FOR THE SICK, ETC., ETC.
CHAPTEK I.
HOUSEHOLD ART AND TASTE.
PAGE
I— Beautifying the Home. II— Furnishing the House. Ill— The Parlor Furniture. IV— The
Dining-Room. V— The Kitchen. VI— The Bed-Rooms. VII— The Cellar. VIII— The
Water Supply. IX— Soft-Water Cisterns. X — Laying Down Carpets. XI — Painting and
Kalsomining. XII — Arrangement of Furniture. XIII — House Cleaning. XIV — Sweeping
and Dusting — ^Renovating Carpets • 725
CHAPTER II.
THE PARLOR AND LIBRARY.
I— The Rooms for Company. II— Guests of the House. Ill — Etiquette of the Parlor. IV —
Entertaining Visitors and Guests.- V — Daily Duties Not Interrupted by Guests. VI —
Going to Bed. VII — Servants and Parlor Service. VIH — ^Duty to Children. IX — What
Constitutes Vulgarity. X — Parlor Decoration. XI — ^Decoration Not Necessarily Costly.
XIT— A Rocking Chair. XIII— A Practical Family. XIV— Ingenious and Useful. . . .737
CHAPTER HI.
THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS SERVICE.
I — ^Dining-Room Furniture and Decoration. II — Table Etiquette. Ill — Carving at Table. IV —
Carving Four-Footed Game. V — Carving Birds and Fowls. VI — Carving Fish. VII —
The Service of the Table. VIII — Some Dishes for Epicures. IX — Queer Facts About
Vegetables. X— The Use of Napkins 746
CHAPTER IV.
DRESS, AND TOILET ART.
I — Dress, Ancient and Modern. II — The Real Purposes of Dress. HI — Clothe According to
Circumstances. IV— Mending Clothes. V— Altering Clothes. VI— The Kind of Clothes
to Wear. VII — Taste in Ladies' Dress. VIII— Something About Color. IX— Toilet-
Room and Bath. X— Garments Next the Skin. XI— The Care of Clothes. XII— The
Care of Brushes and Combs 754
CHAPTER V.
THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM.
I— To Preserve Health and Save Doctors' Bills. II— The Care of Children. Ill— Nursery
Bathing. IV — Duration of and Proper, Time for Bathing. V— Exercise of Children.
VI— Study and Relaxation. VII— The Sick-Room. VIll— Cookery for Invalids. IX—
Table of Foods and Time of Digestion. X — Some Animal Foods in their Order of Digest-
ibility. XI — The Time Required to Cook Various Ai-ticles. XII — Cooking for Conva-
lescents — Recipes and Directions. XIII— Jelly of Meat. XIV— Other Simple Dishes.
XX TABLE OF COXTEXTS.
PAGE
XT— Gniels. XTI— Teas and Other KeJreshing Drinks. "S:\TI— Remedies for tbe Sick.
XVIII— Doses and their Graduation. XIX— Disinfection. XX— Tests for Impurities in
Water. XXI — Simple Poisons and their Antidotes. XXII — ^^'iruleut Poisons and their
Antidotes. * XXHI- Health-Board Disinfectants. XXIV— How to Use Disinfectants. . . 761
CHAPTER VI.
CONTEIBUTIOXS FROM FRIENDS OX HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY.
I — ^Value of Condensed Information. II — Origin of Our Household Recipes. Ill — Economy
in the Kitchen— Washing Dishes. IV— The Damper in the Stove. V— Regulating Coal
Fires. VI— The Use of Waste Paper. VH— Cleaning Soiled Marble, etc. VIH— Ver-
minous Insects. IX — Cloth and Fur Moths. X — Book-Destroying Insects. XI — Kero-
sene. Xn— The Laundry — Some Helps in Washing. XHI — Starching and Ironing. XIV.
Bleaching Linens, etc. XV — Home-Made Soap and Candles. X^^— To Clean Silver.
XVn — Sweeping. X V Ill--Papering, Kalsomining and Painting. XIX — Kalsomining. XX.
—Painting. XXI— Spring House-Cleaning. XXII— Household Hint*. XXHI- Toilet Reci-
pes. XXTV- Home-Made Wines. XXV— Home-Made Inks. XXVI— Recipes for Glue.
XXVn— The Dyer's Art. XXVHl— Coloring , Dress and Other Fabrics. XXIX— Color-
ing Yellow, Blue and Green. XXX— Scarlet and Pink. XXXI— Coloring Black, Brown
and Slate. XXXH— Walnut Coloring-^Black Walnut. XXXIH- Coloring Carpet Rags. . 780
PART IX.
PEACTiaiL, CO^BION SENSE HOIME COOIONG.
KITCHEN ECOXOMY AXD KITCHEN ART. OV~R EVERY-DAY EATING AND DRINK-
ING. RECIPES FOR ALL STYLES OF COOKIXG. EXCELLENT DISHES
CHEAPLY MADE. ECONOMY OF A VARIED DIET.
CHAPTER T.
THE LARDER AXD KITCHEX.
1 The Meat-Boom. II — Hanging. Testing and Preserving Pork, etc. HI — ^Mutton and
Lamb. IV — Calves and their Edible Parts. V — Beef on the Farm. VI — The Kitchen.
VII — The Floor, Walls and Furniture. VEtl — Cleanliness Indispensable. IX — ^Kitchen
Utensils. X — Chemistry of the Kitchen. XI — The Component Pai-ts of Meat. XH — ^A
Famous Cook on Boiling. XIII— Boiled and Stewed Dishes. XTV— How to Ste\v. . . .809
CHAPTER II.
SOME USEFDL RECIPES.
I_Vegetable Soup. H— Clear Beef Soup. HI- Soups of Variotis Meats. IV— Fish Soup.
V— Boiled Dishes. VT— Stewing. VII— How to Make Stock. VIII— To Clarify Stock or
Soup. IX— To Color Soups. X — Roasted and Baked Meats. XI— Beef a la ;Mode. XII —
Preparing the Boast, xij— Roast Saddle of Venison. XIV— Fowl and Turkey. XV—
Baked Ham. XVI— Baked Beans. XVH— Broiling and Frying. X'VIU— Prepared Dishes
Baked. XIX— Pastry for Meat Pies. XX— Ingredients for Meat Pies. XXI— Dishes of
Eggs. XXn— Steamed Dishes 821
TABLE OB'' CONTENTS. XXI
CHAPTEK III.
SAUCES, SALADS, PICKLES AND CONDIMENTS.
PAGE
I — Sauces and Gravies. II — Salads and their Dressing. Ill — Various Made Dishes. IV —
Pickles, Catsups and Coudinients. V — Leaves for Flavoi'ing. VI — Sour Pickles — Cucum-
bers. VII— Chow-Chow. VIII— Piccalilli. IX— Sweet Pickles. X— Catsups. XI— Con-
diments. XII— Flavored Vinegar. _ XI [I— Strawberry Acid 838
CHAPTEE IV.
BREAD-MAKING.
I — Selecting the Flour. 11— Some Things to be Remembered. Ill — ^Yeast and Yeast-Making.
IV — Bread of Fine Flour. V — Heatiug the Oven. VI — Milk Bread, Potato Bread and Cream
Bread. VTI — Eye Bread. VIII — Graham Bread. IX — Boston Brown Bread. X — Various
Recipes for Bread. XI — Biscuits, Rolls, Gems, etc. XII — Oatmeal Breakfast Cakes. XIII —
Rusks and Rolls 854
CHAPTEE V.
PASTRY AND PUDpiNGS.
I — Digestible Pastry. 11 — Pies for Dyspeptics. Ill — Mince Pies. IV — Rhubarb Pie. V — Some
Every-Day Pies. VI— Tarts and Tart Crusts. VII— Fruit Short-Cake. vfll— Puddings
and their Sauces. IX — Devonshire Cream. X — English Plum Pudding. XI — Oatmeal
Pudding or Porridge. XII — Four Puddings of Potatoes. XIII — Brown Betty. XIV^
Some Good Puddings. XV — Dumplings. XVI— A Hen's 'N^est and the Sauce. XVII — Fruit
Puddings. XVIII — Puddings of Grain. XIX — Miscellaneous Puddings. XX— Custards
and Creams — Frozen Custard 862
CHAPTEE VI.
CAKE-MAKING.
I — Cake an Economical Food. 11— General Rules for Making Cake. Ill — Icing, Glazing and
Ornamenting. IV — Recipes for Frosting. V — Ornamenting Cake. VI — Special Prepara- '
tions. VII— Fruit Cake, Dark. VJII— Rich Pound-Cake. IX— Miscellaneous Cakes. X—
More Good Cakes. XI— Gingerbread and Other "Homely '" Cakes. XH-The Housewife's
Table of Equivalents 875
CHAPTEE VII.
BEVERAGES, ICES AND CANDIES.
I_Pnre "Water as a Beverage. II— Tea and Coffee. Ill— How to Make Tea. PV— The Tea-
Making of Various Peoples. V — A Cup of Coffee. VI — Chocolate. VH— Refreshing
Drinks. VIII — Summer Drinks. IX — Tomato Beer. X — Ice Cieam and Water Ices.
XI— Candy-Making. XII— Candied Fruit 884
CHAPTEE VIII.
PRESERVING, DRYING AND CANNING FRUIT. _
I — Old and Kew Ways of Preserving. II — Canning Fruit. Ill — How to Preserve Fruit. IV —
Canning Whole Fruit— Peaches. V— Canning Tomatoes. VI— Canning Vegetables. VII—
Preserving in Sugar. VIH — ^Marmalade. IX — Jam of Apples and Other Fruits. X —
Jellies. XI— Syrups — Blackberry, etc. XII— Drying -Fruits. XHI — Miscellaneous Recipes
for Preserving. XIV— Brandied Peaches and Other Brandied Fruits. 892
XXII TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART X.
DEPORTMENT AND SOCIETY.
SOCIAL FOKMS AND CUSTOMS. SELF-HELP, RULES OF ETIQUETTE, ETC. DIRECTIONS
FOR LETTER-WRITING, ETC. COMPLETE SOCIAL GUIDE.
CHAPTER I.
PHILOSOPHY AND PRECEPTS OF ETIQUETTE.
PAGE
I— The Philosophy of Etiquette. II— Etiquette an Aid to Success. Ill — What it Inculcates.
IV — Etiquette of Dining— How Many to Invite. V— Dinner Costumes. VI— Informal Din-
ners. Vn — How to Receive Guests. VIII — At the Table. IX — How to Serve a Dinner.
X— Family Dinners. XI— A Few Useful Hints. XII— Table Usages; What to Do and
What to Avoid. XIII — Wines at Formal and Official Dinners. XTV — Sensible Hints for
Dinner-Givers. XV — After Dinner. XVI — Breakfast and Supper. XVII — Luncheon — In-
vitation and Service. XVIII— Etiquette of Dress and Conversation. XIX— The Golden
Rule. XX— Things to Avoid. XXI— Calls. XXU— General Etiquette of Calls. XXIII—
Evening Calls. XXIV— Visiting Cards. XXV— New Year's Calls 903
CHAPTER II.
ETIQUETTE OF THE STREET, BALL, CHURCH, ETC.
I— Street Deportment. II — General Rules of Street Deportment. III-;-Special Rules of Street
Deportment. IV — ^Etiquette of Introductions. V — Salutations. VI — Riding and Driving.
VII — Ball and Party Etiquette. VIH— The Supper, Dresslng-Room, etc. IX — Some Gen-
eral Rules of Party Etiquette. X — Evening Parties — The Conversazione. XI — Concerts,
Theatricals, etc. XII — Parlor Lectures. XIH — Church Etiquette. XIV — Etiquette of
Visits. XV— Rules for General Guidance. XVI— Etiquette of the Funeral. XVII—
Etiquette of the Christening — Godfather and Godmother — Presents, etc 919
CHAPTER HI.
ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING, THE ROAD AND THE CAPITAL.
Etiquette of Wedding Engagements. H— The Wedding. Ill— The Ceremony in Church.
IV— Wedding Receptions. V— Etiquette of the Road— Traveling. VI— Ladies Traveling—
The Escort. VII— General Rules for Traveling. VIII— Etiquette in Washington. IX —
Etiquette of Shopping. X— Special Rules of Deportment. XI— George Washington's
One Hundred Rules of Life Government 932
CHAPTER IV.
FORMS, LETTERS, FRENCH PHRASES, ETC.
I— Written Invitations to Dinner and Social Parties. II — Other Invitations— Evening Party. Ill-
Acceptances and Regrets. IV— Friendly Invitations. V— Friendly Acceptances and Regrets.
VI— Letters of Introduction. VII— Letters of Recommendation. VIII— Asking a Loan and
the Reply. IX— Directing a Letter. X— Suggestions for Letter-Writers. XI— Stj'les of
Cards XIT— French Words and Phrases in General Use. XIII— Treatment of Children.
XIV— Seventy-five Cardinal Rules of Etiquette. XV — Alphabet of Etiquette 945
TABLE OF CONTENTS. XXIII
Part XI.
MISCELLANEOUS.
VALUABLE TABLES AJSTD EECIPES. FOODS, SPICES AST) CONDIMENTS. WEIGHTS,
MEASURES, LEGAL FOKMS, ETC.
CHAPTER I.
FOOD PRODUCTS OF CO]VIMERCE.
PAGE
I — Flour and its Manufacture. II — Eye and its Products. Ill — Barley and its Products. IV —
Oats and their Products. V — Maize and its Products. Yl — Beans and Peas and their
Products. VII — ^Potatoes and Potato Products. VIII — Sage and Tapioca. IX — Choco-
late and Cocoa. X — Coffee. XI — Tea. XII — Cotton-Seed Oil. XHI — Spices and their
Adulteration — Pepper. XIV — Cinnamon ; How to Know it Pure. XV — Cloves and Allspice.
XVI — Nutmegs and Mace. XVII— Ginger and its Preparation. XVIII — Capers — True and
Spurious Kinds. XIX— The Tamarind. . • 961
CHAPTER n.
LAW, COMMERCIAL AND OTHER FORMS.
1 — Indenture of Apprenticeship or for Service. II— Arrears of Pay and Bounty. Ill— Forms for
Bounty Land. IV — Agreements and Contracts. V — Warranty Deed. VI — Mortgage of
Personal Property. VH— Bills of Sale. VIH— Certificates, Eeleases and Discharges. IX —
Powers of Attorney. X — Eevocation of Power of Attorney. XI — Proxy Eevoking all Pre-
vious Proxies 971
CHAPTER m.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GKAVITT, ETC.
I— Tables of Weights. 11— The Meti-ic System. Ill — The Metric System Compared with Our
Own. IV — Tables Eelating to Money. V — Foreign Exchange. VI — Specific Gravity.
Vn — Earths and Soils. VIII — Cohesion of Materials. IX — Strength of Common Eopes.
X— Human Force. XI— Heat and its Effects. XII— Capacity of Soils for Heat. XIH— Eadi-
ating Power, Absorption and Evaporation. XTV — Temperatures Eequired by Plants. XV —
Temperatures of Germination. XVI — Contrasts between Animal and Plant Life. XVH — Ther-
mometers. XVni — Dimensions and Contents of Fields, Granaries, Corn-Cribs, etc. XIX —
EainfaU in the United States. XX— Force and Velocity. XXI— Weight of Agricultural
Products 982
CHAPTER IV.
TABLES AND DIAGRAMS OF PRACTICAL VALUE.
1— Seeds and Plants to Crop an Acre. H- Vegetable Seeds to Sow 100 Yards of Drills. Ill-
Plants per Acre at Various Distances. IV— Vitality of Seeds. V— Plants per Square Eod
of Ground VI — ^Foretelling the Weather. VII — Comparison of Crops in Great Britain and
XXIV TABLE OF CONTENTS.
PAG3
. the United States. VUI— Improved aud Unimproved Lands in the States and Territories.
IX — Forest Areas — Em-ope and United States. X — Surveyed and Appropriated Lands in
States and Territories. XI — Tables of Nutritive Equivalents, eto. XII— Table Shovk^ing
Prices per Pound. XIII— Table of Interest at Six per Cent. XIV— Growth of Money at
Interest. XV — Mean Duration of Life. XVI — ^Mortality Eates. XVII — How to Calculate
Salaries and Wages. XVIII — The Earth's Area and Population. XIX — The World's Com-
merce. XX— Pay of the . Principal Officers of the United States. XXI— Public Debt of
the United States. XXII — The United States and Territories. XXIII — Diagrams giving
Valuable Statistics, . . • . . . ' 1006
LIST OF ILLUSTEATIOI^fS.
A village (rural) home, 34
Rude home of the pioneer, .38
Nature's classic halls (waterfall) , . . . . 39
Window gardening, 40
The settler's tu'st home — log cabin, . . .41
Indian corn, ancient and modern, . . . 45
Early Greek implements of agriculture, . 4S
Ancient Chinese plow, . . . . , ... 48
Ancient Koman agriculture {five illustrations), 51
Old Moorish plow, 58
Norman farm tools (six ^gwres), 59
Plowing in the Orkney Islands, 59
English steam plow at work, 60
Daniel Webster's plow, . . 62
Plow with chain for turning under trash, . 63
Plow with attachment for clearing trash, . 63
Gang stubble plow, 64
Stirring and stubble plow, ...... 66
Skim and trench furrow in trench plowing, 67
Trench plowing ten inches deep, ... .67
The furrow moved back, .67
Deep trench plowing, . 68
Double harrow, slanting teeth, 68
Harrow folded, . .68
Sectional field roller, 69
Soil grinder, . . 69
Walking cultivator, 71
Five-tooth cultivator, 71
Seed sower, 72
Diagrams for plowing fields (four figures) , . 74
Wheat without fertilizers, .... 77
Wheat w^ith fertilizers, . . 78
Illustrations of wheat (four figures) , .... S3
Wheat planted at different depths, . . .94
Caps for shocks (too ^^ares), 96
The shock^finished, 96
Hallet pedigree wheat (two sections) , .... 97
Heads of wheat (three figures), 100
Montana spring rye, 101
Winter barley — plant and head, 102
Annat barley, 104
Chevalier barley, ' 104
English barley, 104
Horse-mane oats, 105
White Russian oats, 106
Yellow dent corn, Ill
White dent corn, '. 112
PAGE.
Michigan yellow dent corn, 113
YeJlow flint corn, ■ 114-
A field of shocked corn, . . 115
Corn horse for shocking, 116-
Corn-shock binder, 117
Varieties of Indian corn (twenty illustrations) , 119'
Michigan yellow dent corn, . . . . . 120
White dent or Parrish corn, . 120-
Mammoth yellow dent, ... ... . 121
"North star corn, .... 121
Eight-rowed flint corn, 122
Waushakum corn, .... . ... 122'
Silver white flint corn, . . 122
Wild rice of the Northwest, ... . 124
Grasses and clover, ....'.,.. 134
Flowering of grasses (thirteen illustrations) , . 136'
Flowering of grasses (thirteen illustrations) , . . 137
Flowering of grasses (fourteen illustrations) , . 138
Flowering oi grsLSses (thirteen illustrations), . 139
Flowering of grsisses (twelve illustrations), . 140'
Flowering of grasses (ten illustrations) , . . . 141
Timothy or cat's-tail grass, 143
The proper form of stack 144
Prairie blue joint (broom grass), . . . . 145
Buffalo grass (Buchloe), 146
Gama grass of the South, 147
Indian grass (sorghum nutans), 148
Mesquit grass, 148
Sweet-scented vernal grass, 150'
Rye grass, ... ... 153
Tall oat grass, ... . 153;
Blue grass (Kentucky) , ... . 158
Red-top (agrostis), 159'
Orchard gi'ass, 160'
Mammoth red clover, 161
White (Dutch) clover, 162
Alsike (Swedish) clover 163.
Alfalfa or lucerne, 164
Japan clover (lespedeza), 164
Sorghum, 169'
Hungarian grass, 170
Pearl millet, 171
Prickly comfrey, 172
Belgian carrot, 175
Mangel-wurzel, . . , 175
Parsnips (two cuts), 176'
Carrots (two cuts), 176
(XXV)
XXA'I
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE.
Ked iUtringham carrot, 177
Jei'iisaleai artichoke, . 177
Tall corn close shocked, . . . . . 179
Dwarf corn iu two tieis, 179
Dwarf corn lu three tiers, 179
Ensilage illusti-uted — before covering, . . . 1 79
Ensilage illusn-ated— after covering, . . . 179
Ensilage illustrated — final compression, . . . 1 79
One of the earlier silos, ... 181
Section of double silo, 185
Spraying with poisoned water to desti'oy cot-
ton worms, ... 202
Eamie roots and stem, ... 210
Silk-worm larva, full grown, .... 213
Silk-worm moth, . . . . . 213
Silk-worm cocoon, . . . . . . 213
Piedmontese silk-reel, . . . 217
Lath frame, . . 218
French silk-reeling machine, . . . 219
Plain view of old French reel, .... . 220
Hop kiln or dry house, 228
Tobacco plant iu blossom, 233
234
234
235
237
239
239
240
242
257
257
258
258
259
259
260
261
261
262
262
263
271
273
273
274
275
278
278
279
276
281
n,
Tobacco moth worm, •
Tobacco worm (lai-va), . .
Pupa of tobacco worm,
Tobacco plant properly set, •
Tobacco house,
Hand of tobacco,
JVloth of tomato worm — destroys tobacco in the
North,
Peanuts — plants and tubers.
Head of Liberian cane.
Head of Neeanzana cane, .
Head of wolf-tail cane.
Head of black-top cane,
Head of rice, or Egyptian cor
Head of hybrid cane, . .
Head of white mammoth cane,
Head of early amber cane,
Head of gray-top cane.
Head of Oomseeana cane,
Head of goose-neck cane.
Head of Honduras cane. . .
Modern prairie breaker, .
A pioneer's cottage, , . .
■Ground plan of cottage, with lean-to.
Shall I move the barn, or the tnanure pil(
The successful farmer's model barn,
Eeins for three horses abreast,
Three-horse draft, ....
Vertical breaking plow, . .
Flat furrows breaking, . . .
■Orchard and wind break, . .
e.
PAGE.
Adze-eyed mattock, 284
Dairy-house, elevations, 288
Butter worker, 289
Diagram of farm, . 295
A garden farm, 296
Panels of Virginia fence, 300
Looked Virginia fence, 300
Perpendicular staking and capping 301
Post-and-rail fence, 301
Post-hole auger, 302
Cast post maul, 303
Portable board fence, .... .... 304
End posts and braces for wire fence or trellis, 305
Fence for a hillside, 307
Slide and swing gate, 308
Gate swinging on rings, 308
Gate with strut, 308
Gate with tie latch, 308
Balance gate, .... 309
Sliding gate (two views) , . . . . ... 309
Eisiug gates (two views) , 309
Self-shutting upper hiiige, .... . ' . 310
Gate latch (half size), ... 310
Self-closing slide gate, 310
KoUer hangers, ■ . . 311
Heavy strap-hinge, 311
Southern strap-hinge farm gate (figured) , . . 312
Double-braced gate, ... 312
Adjustable swing gate, . . , ... 313
Ornamental gate and fence, . . ... 313
Incorrect form of water gate, 3l4
Correct form of water gate, .314
Stream gate and footway (two mews) , . . . :-il5
Corn knife, . . .... 318
Billhook 319
Norway spruce and arbor-vitse hedge, . . . 319
White or evergreen thorn, 320
Hedge clipper, ... 321
Osage orange as a tree, . : 323
Drainage of sloughs, 333
Deep-tiller plow for working ditches. . . . 334
Watering-box from under-drain, . . . 334
Drainage-map — space for water pond. . . . 336
Bound-pointed shovel, 337
Cross section of under-drain, 338
Flat-stone drain, 339
Kovind-stone drain, 339
Slab and pole drains (/our cuts) , . . . . 340
Tile di-ain, 341
Drainer's level 342
Finding the level 343
Protecting the bank, ... 343
German spade, 344
LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS.
XXVII
Drainage tools (eight cuts) , 345
Silt well, 347
Ice or tile pick, 350
Connection of lateral with main drain, . . . 350
Diagram of drained field, 351
Draining water halls, . 352
Draining 160 acres, .... 354
Ashland, the home of Henry Claj', .... 362
Farm-house huilt from increasing profits, . . 363
Ground plans of farm-house {two figures) , . . 364
The old house remodeled, 364
Ground plan of house, . . ... . . 365
Farm or suburhan cottage, 366
First floor, farm cottage 367
Upper floor, farm cottage, 367
Parle of the farm cottage, 368
Farm stable and carriage-house, 368
Hillside cottage, ... 371
Ground plan, 372
Plan of attic, 372
Ground plan of horse barn, ....... 373
Maiu floor of farm barn, 373
Ice-house and preservatory, 373
Poor reservoir for fountain, 374
A plaiu farm-house, 393
Ground plan, No. 1, 394
Grouud plan, No. 2, 394
Cottage for farm hand, 394
First floor, square cottage, 395
Second floor, square cottage, 395
Suburban or farm cottage, 39G
Ground plan, ... 396
A pretty rural home, ... 397
Ground plan of rural home, . .... 397
Ground plan of convenient cottage, .... 398
Second floor of same, 398
Farm house, Italian style, . . . . . 398
A convenient cottage, . 399
English gothic cottage, ... 400
Ground plan of English gothic cottage, . . . 401
Plan of rural grounds, .... .... 402
School and meeting house combined, . . . 403
Neighborhood primary school-house, . . . 404
Interior of primary school-house, 404
Scholar's wigwam, 405
A rustic seat, 406
Summer-house of bark, • 406
Square summer-house, . 406
An elegant summer-house, 407
Drinking fountain, 408
A wicket coop, 408
Barrel coop, , .... 408
Poultry house, 409
PAGE.
Chicken and duck enclosure 40S>
Lean-to propagating pit, ,. 410'
Propagating and dry house, 410'
Farm ice-house, 411
Outline drawings of earth-closets {two cuts), . 411
Reservoir earth-closet, ... . . . . 412
Brick smoke-house, .• 413
Framed smoke-house, . . .... 413
Subiu'bau carriage-house and stable, .... 414
Complete dairy barn elevation, . . ^. . . . 415
The stable floor, 416
Horse and cow barn, 416
Ground plan of barns and sheds, 417
Barn basement, .... 417
Feed box, 418
Sheep barn and sheds, 418'
Wagon jack, 419
Improved wagon jack, ... .... 419
Plan of sheep barn and yai-ds, 419
Sheep dipping box, . . . .... 419
Ground plan of sheep barn and yards, . . . 420
Sheep rack for open yard, 420
Square hog barn with extended wings, . . .421
Corn crib of poles, 422
Ventilated granary, 423
Ground plan of granary, 424
Corn crib and granary, 424
Skeleton of crib, 424
Crib extended inwards, 424
Western corn crib, 425
A family set of tools (£weK«!/-one/(/M)-es), . .427
One end of tool -house (thirty figures) ^ . . 428'
Second end of tool-house (thirty figures) , . . 429
View of one side of tool-house and workshop
(123 figures), 430
The other side of tool-house and workshop
(fifty -one figures), .... . . . 431
Improved saw-set 432
A saw clamp, . 433
Newly wooded singletree, 433
Open link, . . 434
Arm-chair turned back, . 434
The arm-chair closed, ... , . . . . 434
Mole trap, 434
Paint brush — best, . 435
Sash brush 435
Section of adjustable plumb and level, . . . 435
Simplest form of stone boat, ■ ■> . ... 437
One-story frame (balloon), , . .... 439
Diagonal lining, inside and out, ... . 440
Isothermal view, balloon frame 440
Canada reinette apple, . . 446
Tetafsky apple, .... 447
3i;xviir
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
•llai-ly Joe ajjple, 450
Hlgby sweet apple, 451
Nurseiy trees (/oMr^g'Mres), 452
Summer rose apple, 454
Grimes' golden apple, 455
Bonne dii Piiits ansault pear, 457
Frederic Clapp pear, . . • 458
Howell pear, . 459
Dix pear, '. 460
Paradise D'Automne pear, 461
Little Marguerite pear, 462
•George rv. peach, 463
liToblesse peach, 464
Nectarine or smooth peach, 465
Early Richmond and late morello cherry, . . 468
Black eagle cherry, ... 469
■Governor Wood cherry, 470
Knight's early black cherry, 471
Fruit-picking ladder, 472
Grapevine treUis, 473
View of two canes trained to stake, .... 475
Trellis and vine, renewal system, 476
Short vine, cultivated cranberry, 478
Varieties of the cranberry (seven figures). . . 479
Saddle grafting, 482
Budding, pruning and grafting knife, . . . 483
Grafting by approach (^ue/g'M?-es), . . . ^.484
Stock and grafts (three figures), 484
Grafting chisel and wedge, 484
Budding knife, 487
Budding illustrated (/oTO- cMfs), 488
The wealth of the garden, 491
Hand cultivator, 492
Earlj' dwarf peas, . . . , 492
Phinney's early melon, 492
Long scarlet radish, . 492
Martynia 494
Sweet potato and vine, 495
Tripoli onion, . 496
Danvers yellow globe onion, . 496
Peppers, 496
Carrots (three figures), 496
Celery, 496
Parsnips (fftrec^g'wres) 496
French breakfast radish 496
Summer golden crook-neck squash, .... 496
Eggplant 496
The farm hot-bed, • 497
Kohl rabi, 499
Growing cucumbers in green-house, .... 500
Okra .... 501
How to cut potatoes for seed (two diagrams), . 504
Potatoes as they should grow 505
Potatoes, illustrated (eight eitts) , . . . .
Crested moss rose (half size) ,
Pansies, .... .
Moss pink,
Perennial daisy, . . ....
Caladium, ...
Hybrid tea rose — La France, . ...
Charles Lefebvre rose, .
Countess of Serene rose, . . ....
Louis Van Houtte rose,
Flowers of white-flowering dogwood, . .
Flowers of Japan quince,
Eose-colored weigela,
Variegated cornelian cherry, ....
Dentzia blossoms,
Fortune's forsythia, . .
Double-flowering plum,
Hydrangea otaksa,
Syringa or mock orange,
Silver bell (halesia), '
Meadow sweet (spirea) , . . . . .
I^ance-leaved spirea,
Japanese spirea,
Guelder rose (viiurnum) ,
Clematis jackmanni,
Hall's Japan honeysuckle; ■
Chinese wistaria,
Flowers of magnolia speciosa, '. ...
Kacemes of double-flowering horse chestnut.
Double-flowering cherry, ... ...
Flowers of double flowering thorn, . . .
Flowers of catalpa speciosa, . .
Chinese double-flowering crab. . . .
Statice latifolia, . . . .
Ornamental grasses,
Water lilies • • •.
Ornamental trellises (three illustrations), .
English oak, ....
Mulberry tree,
Design for village lot
Plan for secluded grounds, ....
Trees massed for effect in height, ....
Sodding terraces, . .
Tree protector, . ... ...
Transplanting trees, .... ....
Road scraper,
Flower beds (three diagrams) ,
Planting flower beds (three diagrams) .
The great flower garden in Lincoln park, Chi
cago, .
A landscape effect in Lincoln park, Chicago
Heavy wooded pine, .... ...
Lamson's cypress,
[■AGE.
, 506
, 507
. 508
. 508
. 509
, 509
. 512
518
. 514
515
. 516
, 517
, 518
, 518
. 519
. 520
. 521
. 522
522
. .523
. 523
. 524
525
, 525
. 526
526
. 527
. 528
, 529
530
. 531
531
, 532
. 533
533
534
, 534
. 535
. 536
. 537
. 538
. 539
, 539
. 539
, 540
. 540
. 540
. 541
. 542
. 543
. 544
. 545
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
XXIX
Magnolia glauca, 546
Siberian ai-bor-vitse, 546
White spruce, 54r
Leaves of crisp-leaved maple, 548
Leaves of Wler's cut-leaved maple, .... 548
Leaves of Acutia-leaved ash, 549
Leaves of tricolofed-leaved sycamore, . . . 549
Leaf of fern-leaved beech 549
Fern-leaved beech, 550
Weeping birch, 551
Cut-leaved weeping birch, 552
White-leaved weeping linden, 553
Yellow wood (vergelea), 554
Scarlet maple, 555
Leaf of maple (variety tripartitum), . . . 555
English elm, .... 555
The ivory-nut plant, 556
Deciduous cypress of the South, 556
Persimmon tree, 556
Climbing fish, 557
A fish nursery, 558
Pond and fish-way 559
Black bass of the West, 560
Striped or brassy bass of the Mississippi, . . 5B0
Brook trout, 561
Artificial spawning of fishes' eggs, .... 563
Out-door hatching-box, 565
In-door hatching-box (/oMj-^f/Mres), . . . 566
Succession of hatching-boxes, 567
Artificial spawning bed, 568
Tllusti-ations of common insects (elevenfigures). 586
Beneficial insects (sixJee)i^g'Mres), 587
Pear-ti'ee lice {five illustrations) , 595
Plant lice magnified {ten illustrations) , . . . 596
Lice and scale insects magnified (seventeen
illustrations), . . 597
Orange scale insect magnified (four illustra-.
tions), ... . . . . . . . 598
Glover's orange scale magnifled (four illustra-
tions), .... 599
Plant bugs (seven cuts) , • 002
Plant bugs (seven figures) , 603
Land bugs (six figures) ,■ ' 604
Land bugs (six figures), 605
Plant bugs (four figures), 606
Chinch and other bugs (sia;^g'««s), .... 607
Plant bugs (seven figures) , 608
Plant bugs (four figures) , 609
Plant bugs and bed bug (eteuera^srio'es) . . . 610
Corsair and reduvius (three figures) , . . . .611
Predatory bugs (six figures), 612
Predatory bugs (six figures), ........ 613
Water bugs (three figures) , 614
Water-hngs (two illustrations) , 615
Device for destroying chinch bugs, army
worms, etc., . . 616
Clover-stem borer (fen ^g'j(m), . . ... 618
Clover-root borer (/oar ^S'Mj-es) , . ... 018
Clover-leaf midge, (four figures), . . . 618
Army worm, moth, pupa, and eggs (four
figures) . 620
Army worm, larva, ; 620
Clover-leaf beetle (thirteen figures) , . . . 621
Lamp for killing night-flying moths 622
The vagabond crambus (J»e ^jfttres), . . . .622
Wheat isosoma (i«re^a'Mres), . 623
Wheat hopper, 623
Sorghum web worm (thirteen figures), . . . 624
The smaller corn-stalk borers (thirteen figures) , 624
Sugar-cane beetle, 625
Eice-stalk borer 626
Grass worm of the South, . 626
Moth of grass worm, 626
Corn bill bug, 627
Corn, cotton-boll or tomato worm, . . . 628
Spraying cotton from below, 630
Map of regions infested with locusts, . 632, 633
The Kiley locust gatherer, 635
The catalpa sphinx, 638
Osage orange sphinx, . . .... . 639
Pine-tree borer, . 640
Eesin-inhabitating deplosis, 640
Pine-leaf miner, 641
Juniper web-worm, . . 641
Lime-tree winter moth . 642
Flea beetle, 642
Apple-leaf sewer, 613
Orange-leaf notcher, . 643
Apple-tree case bearer, 643
Fullei-'s rose beetle (nirae^^Kres), 644
Melon worm and moth ... 644
Thacina parasite on melon worm, . . . 644
Asparagus beetles (three figures) , 645
Snout beetle, 645
Sweet-potato borer, 645
Distended May beetle, 645
Ladybirds of California (twenty -one cuts), . . 646
Nuttall's blister beetle, 647
Lady birds (six cuts) , 647
Soldier beetles (ten figures), 648
Tiger beetles (two cuts) , . . . ... 649
Soldier bug, 649
Ground beetles (tftree OT«.s), 649
'Chalcis Ay (seven figures) , . . ... 649
Epax apicaulis, 649
Lebia grandis (two cuts) ....... . . 650
XXX
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Tachinafly (four figures), 650
Beautifying the home, 725
Glass case for house plants, 727
Aquarium, . . . '. 728
Walking fern 729
Pineapple and fruit, 729
Case of ferns, 729
Window plants in dining-room, 730
Tub filter, 731
Towel rack, 731
Carpet stretcher, 733
Kalsomine hrush, 734
Floor brush, 736
An oriel window, . . 740
Dragon-like ornament, 741
The living-room window, 741
Design for chair cover, . 742
The dragon chair, ■ • i ^42
Work-box and seat, 742
Scissois case, 742
A plant case, 743
A plant fumigator, 743
Plant-case bottom, 743
Sarah"s what-not, - 744
Moss water cooler, 744
Aleck's quilting frame, . . 744
Completely arranged dinner-table, .... "747
A dressed ham, 748
Sirloin of beef, 748
Fillet of veal, 748
Leg of mutton, 748
Eoast turkey, 749
Koast pig, 749
Trussed fowl (breast), 750
Trussed fowl (back) , 750
Pheasant, • .... 750
Partridge, 750
Pigeon (breast), 7o0
Pigeon (back), 750
Goose roasted, 750
Codfish head and shoulders, 751
Pan fish, .... 751
A piece of salmon, 751
Napkins about a decanter, 753
Folded napkins (three cate), 753
Infant bath tub, .763
Oval jelly mould, . ' 768
Jelly sieve, 768
Milk, poriidge or rice boUer, 770
Earth closets for invalids, 776
Adjustable stove damper, 781'
Hog figured for cutting up 810
Dressed carcase of mutton, 811
Dressed lamb, 812
Carcase of veal, 813
Dressed ox, 814
Towel rack, 815
Roller towel 815
Clothes bars, 815
Eefrigerator, 816
Meat cutter, 816
Family meat cleaver, 816
Soup digester, 816
Mortars aud pestles, 816
Potato masher, 818
Tinned skewers, 818
Wooden steak maul, 819
Meat block, 819
Kouad-bottom pot, 820
Granite-ware stew kettle 820
Stew pot and lid, 821
Skillet and lid, . . . ; 821
Porcelain-lined fish kettle, 823
Brass kettle 823
Convex stew-pan, 827
Flesh fork, 830
Broiler and cover, . . 832
Oyster broiler, 833
Improved frying pan, 833
Vegetable or egg boiler, 836
Omelet pan, . . 836
Steamer 836
Soup or sauce strainer, ... . . . S3S
Gravy strainer, . . 835
Salad washer, 840
Toaster and light broiler, 842
Pudding or timbale pan, 814
Mushrooms, 645
Colander, • . . 847
Preserving and pickling kettle, 850
Kitchen sieve, . . . . / 852
Kneading pan, 858
Corn-cake pans, 859-
Wood rolling pin. . . • 859-
Bake-pans for rolls, 861
Scalloped pie-plate, •. . . . 863
Oblong pie-plate, 864
Scalloped patty-pan, 865-
Farina and pon-idge boiler, S6S
Deep pudding-pan 868
Apple corer, 870
Oval pudding pan, ■ 872
Charlotte Eusse pan, 873
Beating bowl, 875-
Octagon cake-mould, 877
Turk"s-head cake-mould, 877
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
XXXI
Sponge-cake pan, 878
Deep jelly pans, 878
Cake cutter, . . . . , 8S0
Cookie pans, ... 881
Water filter and cooler, . , 884
. Tea leaves, natural size, ... .885
Coffee roaster, 887
Ice-cream freezer, 889
Fruit and jelly press, . . . • 896
ninstrations showing forms of cards, . . 951, 952
Germination of the bean, ... .... 963
Germination of the pea, 963
Wild potato of New Mexico, 964
Young plant of Arabian coffee, . ... 965
Tea in the various stages of manufacture, . . 967
Diagram, production of corn, 1024
Diagram, production of wheat, . ... 1025
Diagram, export and consumption of cotton, 1026
Diagram, average rate of wages, groups of
States, 1027
Diagram, number of miles of railroad built
annually, 1028
Diagram, aggregate tons of freight moved,
Erie canal, 1029
Hon. JONATHAN PEKIAM,
Peontispiece.
CHROMO-LITHOGRAPHS AND COLORED DIAGRAMS.
Woodland Home, as occupied by Farmer Thrifty, opposite page 33
Woodland Home, ten years later, in hands of Farmer Slack, .... opposite page 89
The Production of Cereals of the United States and the Various European Coun-
tries compared, opposite page 110
Diagram showing Areas and Values op Indian Corn, Wheat and other Cereal
Grains of the United States; also Hay and Cotton, (official), . opposite page 132
Diagrams showing the Acreage and Value op Tobacco, Sugar Cane, Hops and Rice
, IN the United States, (official), . opposite page 224
Diagram showing the Number of Farms in the United States by Decades, opposite page 272
Diagram showing Forest Area, Acreage in Crops, Acreage in Farms and Total
Farm Area of the United States, '. . . opposite page 272
Diagrams showing the Estimated Total Value and Total Number of each kind of Live
Stock in the United States in January, 1882 (latest official statements) , opposite page 414
Diagrams showing the Value ait) Quantities of Beef, Hog Product, Butter and
Cheese .Exported from the United States during the Year ending June 30, 1882
(latest official statement), • opposite page 426
Diagram showing the Increase of Population in the United States from 1790 to
1884 (official), opposite page 674
Foreign Population by Nativities, (census of 1880), opposite page 674
Diagram of the White, Colored, Chinese and Civilized Indian Population of the
United States, (census of 1880), opposite page 674
Diagram of the Native and Foreign Population op the United IStates, (census
of 1880), •' .... opposite page 674
Diagram showing Exports of Breadstuffs, Cotton and other Domestic Products,
and Imports, from the latest official figures, opposite page 962
Part I.
THE HOME AND FAEM.
MAKING CONVENIENT, COMFORTABLE AND HAPPY HOMES.
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTURE ILLUSTRATED AND COMPARED.
IMPROVED FARM IMPLEMENTS AND MACHINERY.
PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE.
THE HOME AND FARM
" Thy free, fair homes, my country!
Long, long, in hut and hall,
May hearts of native proof he reared
To guard each hallow*d wall!
And green forever he the groves,
And hright the flowery sod,
Where first the child's glad spirit loves
Its country and its God!"— Felicia Hemans.
CHAPTEE I.
BUILDING HAPPY HOMES.
CONTRASTED PICTURES. n. THE IDEAL COUNTRY HOME. III. THE FARMER'S WIFE. IV. THE
OVERWORKED WIFE. ^V. SONS AND DAUGHTERS ON THE FARM. VI. YOUTHFUL ACTIVITY.
VII. ADORNING THE HOME. VIII. IMPROVING THE HOMESTEAD. ^IX. SPORTS OF CHILDHOOD.
X. LESSONS PROM THE GARDEN. XI. WHAT WE HOPE TO TEACH.
I. Contrasted Pictures.
IHERE is no sweeter word than Home ! Around the fireside cluster all that
..__ makes life beautiful, — Love, Trust, Charity, Truth and Beauty. There
H'' husband and wife prove the loveliness of unselfish union. There the youth
gains aspiration and the training for a noble life. There the maiden learns
the sweetness of unsullied purity and gentle deeds.
Much lies upon the man before he can be worthy of a happy home, much upon
the woman. Some examples teach by warning, as others by furnishing models for
imitation. Let us take a common case. A girl marries. She has been reared by
an unwise though fond mother, whose slavish devotion to her children has made her
an unlovely household drudge. She has been brought up to be that wretched thing,
a gaudy slattern ; she is unkempt at breakfast and elsewhere at home, but gay beyond
the household means for others ; is ashamed of, and discontented with, her surround-
ings. City life to such an one is a cheerless, if not fatal, thing. After her marriage,
the young couple live with her parents, and what the wretched home-education
has taught grows into life-habit. Or, perhaps, they board in some house where
idleness and gossip grow like noxious weeds, choking the possibilities of good.
There is no wholesome work of head or hand ; a wretched life of complaint ensues ;
the girl becomes the mother of children she is all unfit to rear: a querulous,
3 ■ m
34
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
discontented wife doing nothing — often unable to see anytliing to do — to aid in build-
ing a Home. In the end, when her husband has won a house of his own, this woman
drifts into a likeness of her mother. She is shrill-voiced, careless of raiment, old
before her time, with no sign of the fair, calm matronly beauty, that second
blossoming after seed-time, which should come to replace the young charm — the
Indian summer, almost as fair as wakening spring-time. Her very love for her
children works their hurt because there is no guidance.
A VILLAGK HOME.
The man is as often to blame, seeming to live for business alone, or vastly
worse, only for boon companions. It is true that the wife, if she be one of those
exce])tional beings who can answer harsh woi-ds or the more bitter neglect with a
smile, who will make home sweet even when her own life is as ashes within her lips,
will, in the end, win any man to home and duty. Of such women there are a few, —
martyrs as worthy of our highest homage as any that ever perished at the stake.
But such a. husl)and has no right to expect his wife to prove one of them. God's law
BUILDING HAPPY HOMES. 35
is that " whatsoever a man sows that shall he also reap." The enforcement of this
law is nearly always as speedy and obvious as it is ultimately certain. The man
sows indifference, neglect, unfaithfulness, and he reaps bitter recriminations, domestic
broils and jealousies, a full and hideous crop.
II. The Ideal Country Home.
In country life, the way is more smooth for both, though far from easy. The
life of a farm is hard, especially so for the woman, but there is work for willing
hands to do. There is the home to be made a haven of rest and sweet content. The
wife should never forget her high ideal of home life, and that she must be the centre
of its beauty. Though they have but a log hut amidst the wilderness, she may make
that wilderness blossom as the rose- She may have small share of beauty, yet she
may still be exceeding fair in her husband's eyes; Let them both remember it is not
the harsh word that heals the breach.
When the children come, let there be order, but remember children are not
machines. Train them as you would a vine by daily, hourly care and thought; by
example, not by hard rules. A child needs play, air, sunlight, and above all, love
and sympathy. He needs a gentle mother-breast wherein to pour the. little griefs
which, though quickly flown, are at the moment all as poignant as the weightier woes
of later years. Teach by love. Teach by example. Be chary of stern precepts for
which the child can see no reason but your arbitrary will. If you would have your
child respect you — to say nothing of his love — never punish him in a spirit of anger.
Never make him a promise without performing it. Remember, there are nearly
always other and better modes of punishment, than beating him. Remove some
present, or deny some expected pleasure, instead. Let him, if the fault be grave,
feel your grave displeasure. Never scold. Govern firmly, but don't govern too
much. Threaten seldom — never idly. The parent who tells a child, "If you do
so-and-so, I will do so-and-so with you," and then weakly forgets both the broken
command and the assigned penalty for it, merits and receives the child's contempt.
In all things, remember the tremendous force of parental example. Long before he
learns his letters, your toddling one has read your daily life through and through.
He moulds his little life by the pattern you present him. For your child's sake, no
less than your own, see to it, then, that your life is upright, true and pure. Oh, the
tender grace arid sweetness of the home where love and duty reign supreme ; where
the husband and father may cast off his load of daily care; where the wife and
mother, grown lovelier by her self-restraint and thought for others, shines, beside the
hearth the dearest and the sacredest of all created things. In many a home, even in
these degenerate days, may such a wife and mother be found:
A woman, not too pure and good
For human nature's daily food,
For wholesome pleasures, simple wiles,
Praise, blame, love, kisses tears and smiles.
36 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
m. The Farmer's Wife.
Fkom the day, when a bride, she has entered that house wherein the Home lies as
does the sculptor's dream of genius within the marble block, needing the patient,
loving toil to bring forth its lines of beauty ; through days or years of sorrow or of
sunshine ; with many a rebellious thought, fancy or longing to be trodden down in
the path of duty; amid griefs and heart-aches not merely to be endured, but
to be made stepping-stones to a yet higher and nobler life. Through child-birth pain
and weary illness — still guided by the light of Love and Truth — the true woman
moves on, blessing all who come within her influence. " Her children rise up and
call her blessed."
Woe to the man who shall mar the happiness of the home life. And how
many a farmer unthinkingly does this! He amuses himself; he goes to town to
buy and sell; he hires labor when there is much to do, but he habitually neglects his
fellow-toiler and helpmeet in the house. At the busy season the work heaped upon
the "women folks" almost crushes the life out of them. All this is to his own
future infinite loss. The life of too many farmers' wives is what no man could bear,
and no woman should be made to suffer. It would be a standing shame to the men
of America — a disgrace to our nation — ^if anywhere the women should become slaves
without even the slave's holidays, as brutally sacrificed to the chase for the almighty
dollar, as ever victim dragged before the throne of Moloch. As a child needs play,
so men and women need some form of innocent pleasure. If " all work and no play
makes Jack a dull boy," so from Jill it either crushes all her brightness and beauty,
or else almost forces her to rebel against social and domestic law in search of a less
intolerable lot. Work, the wife of a farmer must, but he should make the burden as
light as possible.
rv. The Overworked Wife.
Does any reader recognize this picture of the overworked wife, drawn by Ella
Wheeler, one of the most sympathetic poets of the West? If so, let him have a care,
lest he, too, become such a tyrant to such a slave :
" Up with the birds in the early morning —
The dew-drop glows like a precious gem;
Beautiful tints in the skies are dawning,
But she's never a moment to look at them.
The men are wanting their breakfast early;
She must not linger, she must not wait;
For words that are sharp and looks that are surly,
Are what the men give when the meals are late.
" Oh. glorious colors that clouds are turning.
If she would but look over hills and trees;
But here are the dishes, and here is the churning —
Those things must always yield to these.
BUILDING HAPPY HOMES. 37
The world is filled with the wine of beauty,
If she could but pause and drink it in;
But pleasure, she says, must wait for duty —
Neglected work is committed sin.
" The day grows hot, and her hands grow weary;
Oh, for an hour to cool her head.
Out with the birds and winds so cheery!
So she must rise in the morning and make her bread.
The busy men iu the hay-field working.
If they saw her sitting with idle hands.
Would think her lazy, and call it shiiking.
And she never could make them understand.
" They do not know that the heart within her
Hungers for beauty and things sublime;
They only know that they want their dinner.
Plenty of it, and just ' on time.'
And after the sweeping and churning and baking.
And dinner dishes are all put by.
She sits and sews, though her head is aching,
Till time for supper and ' chores' draws nigh.
" Her boys at school must look like others,
She says, as she patches their frocks and hose,
For the world is quick to censure mothers
For the least neglect of their children's clothes.
Her husband comes from the field of labor;
He gives no praise to his weary wiie;
She's done no more than has her neighbor,
'Tis the lot of all in country life.
" But after the strife and weary tussle
With life is done, and she lies at rest.
The nation's brain and heart and muscle —
Her sons and daughters — shall call her blest;
And I think the sweetest joy of Heaven,
The rarest bliss of eternal life.
And the fairest crown of all will be given
Unto the wayworn farmer's wife."
e
V. Sons and Daughters on the Farm.
It is not necessary that the boy reared in the country should be a farmer.
Farmers' sons often become leaders in trade, commerce, the arts, science, politics
or letters. In fact, it is from the country that the vigor of the city is constantly
recruited. Hence the necessity of educating every boy to fit him, not for some
single groove in life, but to occupy any plane his talents and industry may enable
him to reach. But does he choose the farm? There is here as high an ideal —
as great a field for action as anywhere in the wide world.
OO THE HOME AND FAKM JIANUAL.
Nor are the daughters of the household, because they are the children of
farmers, all, of necessity, to become farmers' wives. It may be happ3' for them
if they do, for there is no condition in life where more true enjoyment may be
had than in the tillage of the soil, in the rearing of stock, a well-kept garden, an
orchard dropping luscious and healthful fruits, a comfortable dwelling, and well-kept
grounds. These, every industrious family may have, however few the acres.
We can no more control the affections of the dauo-hters than the talents of
the sons. But much may be accomi^lished by so directing education that these
talents and affections may be carried in natural channels. The boy who is the mere
RUDE HOME OF THE PIOXEEK.
drudge of the farm, and the girl that of the kitchen, will always be lookino- afar
for that happiness denied them at home. It is the instinct of all youno- animals
to play. By both his physical and mental constitution, the child reciuires exercise,
to promote growth, harden the iKines, strengthen the muscles and sinews and
recreate the brain. This must be found outside the daily routine of labor, whether
it be of the farm, the workshop or the school. In directing these matters, nature
must be counseled and co-operated with. She cannot be rudel}^ over-ridden and
disregarded, without exacting a heavy penalty in a stunted and misshapen life.
BUILDING HAP5Y HOMES.
39
VI. Youthful Activity.
The idler is the product of bad training. He is peculiarly in danger of
becoming vicious. Hence, when a child is inclined to be idle, otherwise than as
the result of grinding overwork, care should be taken to arouse the natural activity.
Some natures develop slowly, yet bear noble fruit. These need a stimulus ; others,
unduly precocious, should be checked'. If the child becomes too early absorbed
in study, the life may be brilliant, indeed, bat is likely to be short. The tree
that too soon puts on fruitage is the tree that prematurely decays.
There is no better place for the precocious youth than the farm. Let such
watch the squirrels darting here and there in the groves, gather flowers in warm nooks
in the spring, play in the new-mown hay in the summer meadows, fish or swim in
brook or pond, go nutting in the
autumn, and coast, skate or snare
rabbits in the winter. It will round
out and freshen the growth, and,
when time again comes for study, re-
newed health will enable the brain to
carry its load. Thus the slow child
should be led, and the too quick-
witted one held back; but the lash
in the one case, or too sharp a curb
in the other, might be fatal. We
must, in every case, try to wisely
guide ; to be able to understand the
nature of a child; to diagnose the
mind, even as a good physician
would an illness.
The duties of parents do not end
when the children are fed and
clothed. The moral is higher than
the physical. They must have a pleasant home, must be interested in all that is
going on, and help in their small way to create beauty. Thus they will learn to love
labor for what it brings, and to love beauty for what it gives. In after life, however
successful one may be, the old homestead, even though it be but the simplest cottage,
should be looked back to, as the place where the happiest days of life were spent;
the remembrance of father and mother be cherished as those to whom the mistakes
and successes of life might always be carried, as to careful counselors; the sisters
and brothers, ever ready to assist with word or deed.
NATURE'S CLASSIC HALLS
40
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
VII. Adorning the Home.
Where'st;r the home may be, whether in city or country, it is little things that
make np the household comforts. In cities little can be done, except to keep the
surroundings, small though they may be, neat and tidy. The small yard, if any, may
have a little green grass and a few plants; the windo\\'s, in an}^ event, should have a
few pots of choice flowers. In the ordinary city home, great display' should not be
thought of. A si)igle plant well grown is better than a window crowded full of ill-
looking and untidy starvelings. The village home presents greater capabilities. A
few handsome trees for shade, a smooth green lawn, with here and there a bed of
WINDOW GiVEDENING.
tlowers, running roses trained to the veranda, a clinging vine over the porch, and a
path winding gracefully with gentle curves to the door, will si:)eak eloquently of taste
and contentment in the owner. It will be a suggestion of happy, smiling children, a
careful father, a fond and earnest mother. Inside you are sure to find neatness,
order, and reliance one on another. The walls will not be bare of pictures, nor the
windows of flowers, nor will there be wanting those little elegancies of feminine work
that tell of taste and reflnement in e\'cry department of the household. There ma}^
not be wealth, but there will be something better — comfort. The husband ma_>' be
at work all daj^ in his shop, the wife perhaps working at home, but it will be
cheerful labor.
BUILDING HAPPY HOMES.
41
VIII. Improving the Homestead.
TriE workman in city or village, may not own his own home; the majority
do not. The farmer usually owns the farm he works. He may he in debt, and,
of course, his first endeavor must be
to make himself and family free.
Yet, even while doing this, there is
many a labor of love that will make
the place increase 3-early in value
and beauty. An orchard may be
planted, a vegetable garden culti-
vated, and trees set out to shade
the lawn between the house and the
road. Fences may be repaired, and
vines and trellis-work made to beau-
tify the home. Such labor is scarcely
felt, and as the years roll bj^ the ■e^-^'*
cattle and horses, sheep and other
stock will be increasino- and trrowuro;
O o C
in numbers, as the home increases in
value and attractiveness.
TUE SliTTLEE S FIEST HOME.
IX. Sports Of Childhood.
There is no aristocracy among children. If we see a child sneering at one
not so well dressed as herself, or bragging about his parent's riches, be sure
something is wrong at home. It is after we grow up, that wo really look down
on those not so favored as ourselves. But if the proper training has been given
in youth, the man or woman will have only kindly feelings, and a pleasant word
for all, where the person is not bad at heart, and average human nature is not so.
The well-bred child is as happy in sport, with one cleanly dressed child as another.
Childhood is a true republic, where all contribute to the general weal. It is the
dutj^ then, of the parents, to provide such amusements as ma}^ lie within their
means. Skipping-ropes, swings, dolls, and other feminine articles for the girls, — ■
the coveted knife or hatchet, the little wagon or wheelbarrow for the boys, and
the jolly ride behind the farm team that is pleasure always.
If there is water near, both boys and girls should be taught to manage a
boat, and, as a matter of precaution, both should learn to ,swim. Bathing dresses
are cheap, and danger of accident will be lessened. Athletic sports should never
be denied to boys, and girls should be allowed to race to their hearts' content.
Dresses may be soiled, and clothes be torn. Such things inhere among the
necessities of childhood. Indeed, we would give but little for the girl who never
42 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
soiled her dress, or the boy who never had a rent in coat or trousers. Far better
these annoyances, when supplemented with the glow of health, the strength of
muscle, and the innocent cheerfulness that come with them, than that children
should always look as though they had. "just come out of a band-box.'-'
As children grow, their sport may be directed in practical channels. Both
boys and girls should be taught to gather plants. These may be studied, and
thus the first lessons in botany taught. Let them learn to distinguish noxious
plants from innocent ones; plants of use from what we call weeds (for weeds
are simply plants out of place — many of them being valuable for their medicinal
virtues). Even the chores about the farm may come, with a little instruction, to
be- regarded as near of kin to play. The calves, and colts, and lambs are to be
conciliated while being fed, the older animals taught that, although boys are
sometimes rough, they are nevertheless kindly. Even the village boy and girl
may thus be trained to love rural life, in the little attentions they bestow on the
pet calf or lamb, and the thriving pig, reared although these may be, for the butcher.
X. Lessons from the Garden.
The garden everywhere may be made a never-ceasing source of pleasure, until
even its labors will be eagerly sought. The preparation of the tiny seeds, the careful
planting, the wonders of germination and growth, the blossoming and the ripe fruits,
all will be enjoyed when we come to understand something of the mysteries of
vegetable life.
Why the South ripens the pineapple, the banana and the pomegranate; the
Middle region the grape, the pear, the peach, and the ever-welcome apple. From
whence we get the tomato, the melon, okra, egg-plant, the potato, and other exotics,
not known beyond their native homes until civilization and commerce brought the
products of the four quarters of the globe even to our doors; how fruits, vegetables
and brilliant flowers have become possible about every home, even in lands but a few
years ago supposed to be almost uninhabitable, — ^these and a thousand other enter-
taining questions may be asked and answered in connection with the boy's work in
the garden. Thus you train him in habits of thought as well as of industry. It is a
great thing for your boy to rise to the conception that work is more than sweat and
muscle — more even than the greasy dollars received for the crop.
Why does the farmer and mechanic of to-day live more comfortably, and really
better than the nobles of two hundred years ago ? Why have we a broader and wider
intelligence to-day than in the old feudal times? Education has been different among
the masses. Every man is his own master, and head-work directs the labor of
his hands. Why are we, as a people, more prosperous and happy than others? It is
the feeling that all honest labor is alike honorable, and that agriculture is the
groundworh of permanent wealth.
BUILDING KEW HOMES. 43
XI. What we Hope to Teach.
When reliance on agriculture has ceased, nations have invariably receded from
their high ppsition, and sunk into oblivion. The wonderful prosperity of the United
States is due, almost solely, to the immense agricultural resources of the country, its
wealth in grain, grass, stock, cotton, fruits, and other products; and this prosperity
has continued in the face of enormous taxes and tariffs, partly rendered necessary by
our great debt. The power of France to pay her huge war debt, and yet recuperate
so quickly, was due to the fact, first, that the peasantry in a great measure own the
soil, small fields though most of them be, and to the excellence of her agriculture;
second, to the fact, that nearly all of the population are engaged in some productive
industry.
In this volume, the aim is practical and helpful. Our mission is to the homes of
the great working classes, farmers, artizans, laborers, and all who work with hand
and brain. We hope to show the farmer, for example, how he can better himself by
better tillage, to explain and illustrate the value of grass, grain, drainage, textile and
other special crops, and how to improve them; to exhibit, in its true light, the wealth
of the orchard and garden, and how he may cheaply enjoy them. In short, we hope
to make this work valuable, nay, indispensable, to all who own a rood of ground, by
hints as to its cultivation and improvement with a view to founding there a happy
and prosperous Home.
CHAPTER II.
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTURE.
I. THE VjtLUE OF BOOKS.^n. AGKIOIILTUEE AMONG THE SAVAGES. HI. THE AEIZONA INDIANS
IV. MOUND BUILDERS. ^V. AGEICULTURE DEFESTED. VI. ITS DIVISIONS. VIL ITS HISTORY. .
VUI. THE BOOKS OF MAGO. IX. MAGO ON WORKING CATTLE. X. ROME'S AGRICULTURAL
WRITERS. XI. CHRONICLES OF COLUMELLA. XII. ANCIENT FARMS AND IMPLEMENTS. XIU.
CULTIVATE LITTLE, CULTIVATE WELL._ XIV. A FANCY FARMER. XV. ARABLE LANDS AND
PASTURES. XVI. WATER MEADOWS. -XVII. A RICH MEADOW. XVIH. ROMAN ROTATION.
XIX. ROMAN SMALL GRAINS. XX. SOME ANCIENT METHODS. XXI. ANTIQUE CROPS. XXH.
CROPS PULLED BY H.\N^D. XXIII. FALLOW CROPS. XXIV. ANCIENT HARVESTING. XXV. ROMAN
FERTILIZERS. XXVI. A QUESTION NOT YET SETTLED. XXVII. LITTLE AND OFTEN. XXVIH.
COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS. XXIX. ANCIENT PLOWING. XXX. PLOWS. XXXI. SEEDING.
XXII. YIELD PER ACRE. XXXIH. MEDIEVAL AND MODERN AGRICULTURE.
I. The Value of Books.
^^OME of the processes, maxims and data that have come down to us from farmers
of the remote past, are interesting as weU as instructive, and none more so than
those which show the high estimation and honor in which this, the most
important industry of mankind, was held by the ancients. It will also be
instructive to observe how slow was the growth of agriculture among the moderns,
after the advanced husbandry of the. ancients was lost in the darkness of the Middle
Ages. It was not until the invention of printing, and the universal dissemination of
knowledge, through books, giving the practical experience of the best minds in the
profession, that improved methods of farming became possible to the masses. And
yet there are fogies to-day, who sneer at what they call " Book Farming." But for
books, the great majority of farmers and farm-laborers would still be mere serfs and
beasts of burden, as they were three hundred years ago. But for the information
published in good books the West could not have become the Granary of the World,
and the South could not have supplied, as it now does, cheap cotton to clothe the
people of all lands.
II. Agriculture Among the Savages.
Agriculture, as practiced by barbarous tribes of the present day, for instance,
by some of our American Indians, consists simply of gathering grass-seeds,
digging wild roots, and storing acorns for the winter's bread. This is the agri-
culture of the Digger Indians of the Pacific slope. In the country east of the
Mississippi river, the aborigines were one grade above this. Their squaws planted
corn, beans and pumpkins with the rudest hand implements. They also gathered
m
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTUEE.
45
nuts for winter use, but they were improvident to the last degree. The instinct
or experience of the squaws taught them to hide the seed for the next crop in
DJDIAN COKN— ANCIENT AND MODERN.
holes in the ground, in order to save it from the rapacity of the "braves," when
46 THE HOME AND FAKM MANTTAL.
their gluttony had consumed the general store. The seed-corn was buried in dry
soil, the ears, with the husk on, standing on end. It is a curious fact that this
method of keeping the seed corn is the best known for preserving its germinating
quality. The reason is obvious. The grain is not dried down to extreme hardness,
and in the partly-confined atmosphere, the germs slowly undergo the preliminary
change necessary to prompt sprouting, just as do the seeds of forest trees under
their natural winter covering of leaves.
III. The Arizona Indians.
The Zuni Indians, the Moquis, and some other tribes of Arizona and New
Mexico, were far in advance of the more warlike savages, and yet far below
respectable husbandry. Still, their methods are perhaps better than those practiced
by the patriarch, Abraham. They raise a variety of crops, including fruit, and grind
their grain in mills. They live in permanent dwelling-places, raise, spin and weave
wool, and had, when the Spaniards first came among them, three hundred years ago,
advanced beyond the condition of wandering barbarians. Driven from other homes
by the savage Comanches and Apaches, they had fled to those arid regions, there to
follow more peaceful avocations, far from their brutal conquerors. Are they an effete
offshoot of the people whom the Spaniards found practicing a still higher art of
husbandry in Mexico, Peru and Chili? That prehistoric people whose forefathers
were saved from being engulfed in " Lost Atlantis," may have given civilization to
the ancient Chinese, and, perhaps, through them to the ancient people of Asia, the
so-called cradle of the human race. There is good evidence tending that way, even
from the Chinese, who acknowledge that their civilization came from the eastward.
The three representations of Indian corn, ancient and modern, are an interesting
study, first, as showing the constancy of species to the original type ; and second, as
illustrating the cultivation of maize in America, by a people, perhaps, more ancient
than those of the so-called Old World. Fig. 1 represents a cob of Indian corn from
one of the rock caves of Arizona. Fig. 2 shows the corn now cultivated by the
Pueblo Indians of Arizona. Fig. 3 exhibits a nubbin, found with a mummy of
ancient Peru, the date so remote that more than its geological age cannot be
guessed. That nubbin was probably coeval with, if not .anterior to the Mound
Builders, and they belong to so remote, a period that there is not even a tradition
of them left.
rv. Mound Builders.
The Mound Builders, who once .occupied the whole Mississippi Valley, or, at
least, its Eastern and Central portions, were undoubtedly far advanced in civilization.
They were undoubtedly an agricultural people. They understood mining and the
working of metals. They certainly had commercial intercourse with peoples, many
hundreds of miles from their homes. But no tradition of them remained among the
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGEICULTURE . 47
Indians found by the first settlers in America. Nothing is left of their civilization
but the mounds, covered in many cases by gigantic forests. The skulls exhumed
seem to show that they consisted of a superior and an inferior race, or caste, as was
anciently the case in Egypt.
V. Agriculture Defined.
The word Agriculture is derived from two Latin words, ager, a field, and cultura,
cultivation. From these words we get our word acre, originally a field, and our
word culture. In its broad sense the word Agriculture is now used to express all
that pertains to the farm and garden. The preparation of the soil, sowing,
cultivating, reaping, and preparing the crop for market. It also includes breeding,
feeding, fattening, care and training of farm stock, as given in the companion vol-
ume to this, the " Cyclopedia of Live Stock, and Complete Live Stock Doctor."
VI. Its Divisions.
Modern Agriculture proper is embraced in two grand subdivisions: 1. Hus-
bandry, or, as the latter term is now generally used. Agriculture, and in which sense
it will be used in this work; 2. Horticulture. The first relates to the farm proper;
the second to the garden. The word Horticulture, again, is derived from two Latin
words, hortus, a garden, and cultura, from colo, to till — literally, the art of tilling a
garden. This, again, in its broad sense, embraces all that relates to the orchard, the
garden, the forest, and even landscape adornment. Agriculture, or husbandry, again,
is subdivided into, 1, Field Husbandry,, and, 2, Animal Husbandry.
Field Husbandry. — Field Husbandry is divided into grain husbandry, grass
husbandry, seed husbandry, cotton planting, sugar-cane planting, sugar-beet hus-
bandry, tobacco husbandry, and mixed husbandry. The latter is that pursued by the
majority of farmers North, and by the planters South. It must embrace two. or more
of the subdivisions named, as, for instance, hemp and tobacco in the North, and
textile crops, as cotton and jute, in the South. But mixed farming usually embraces
a variety of crops, and also the breeding and care of farm animals.
Animal Husbandry. — This branch of agriculture is divided into horse breeding
and rearing, mule breeding, cattle breeding and rearing, sheep husbandry, swine
husbandry, poultry raising, stock feeding and fattening, and mixed animal husbandry.
Horticulture. — This, the second grand division of Agriculture, may be
divided as follows: Pomology, or Fruit Husbandry; Aboriculture, or all that per-
tains to trees; Vegetable Gardening; Floriculture; Landscape Gardening; the
Nursery, or the cultivation of young trees and plants; Seed Husbandry, and
Mixed Horticulture, or a combination of two or more of the foregoing.
VII. Its History.
The history of agriculture is by no means perfect. Of the ancient agriculture
of Southern Europe, Asia and Africa, we have the written record of the Bible,
48
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAI,.
and the writings of the Greeks, Romans and Carthaginians. The writings of the
Greeks on the subject are meagre ; their taste lay in the direction of art, and the
agriculture of the country was left entirely to
slaves. Their implements of tillage never
reached the perfection of the Komans. Fig. 1
is the form of an implement scidptured on an
ancient tombstone at Athens; 2, shows the
ancient Grecian plow; 3, the spade; 4 and 5,
EABLT GREEK IMPLEMENTS. hoCS.
Among the Romans and the Carthaginians, the highest officers did not disdain
to practice agriculture, when not engaged in battle or on the forum. By them,
agriculture was considered the most honorable of professions, and the most illus-
trious men of Rome and Carthage prided themselves on their skill in farming.
Mago, the Carthaginian, was the father of agricultural literature. This was
the great Mago, who is supposed to have lived in the time of Darius, and to have
been the founder of the great Punic family from which came Hannibal.
VIII. The Books of Mago
The books of Mago on agriculture were twenty-eight in number. At the final
destruction of Carthage, when the whole literature of the conquered nation was given
over by the Romans to their African allies, these twenty-eight treatises were con-
ANCIEXT CHINESE PLOW.
sidered so valuable, that they were translated at the public expense. Hereen says
there are thirty-one distinct passages in which the maxim's of the Carthaginian author
are handed down to us. Curiously enough, none of these passages refers to the
cultivation of grain. One gives directions for grinding or pounding grain, lentils,
vetches and sesame. Another recommends the proprietor to reside on his farm, for.
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTURE. 49
" He to whom an abode in the city lies close at heart, has no need of a country
estate." Mago condemned the practice of desti'oying bees when the honey was
taken.
He seems to have been well informed upon horticulture, for he gives directions
for the cultivation of vines, nut trees, poplars and reeds. He asserted that in Africa
female mules were nearly as prolific as mares, and Cato makes the same assertion.
This is very different from modern experience, except in occasional instances in
warm climates.
IX. Mago on Working Cattle.
Varro borrowed much from the writings of Mago, " which I make my herdsmen
carefully read." Mago's directions for buying working oxen hold good, even to-day.
He says: " The young oxen which we buy should be square in form, large-limbed,
with strong, lofty, and dark-colored horns, broad and curly fronts, rough ears, black
eyes and lips, prominent and expanded nostrils. Long and brawny neck, ample
dewlaps pendant nearly to the knees, a wide chest and large shoulders, roomy-bellied,
with well-bowed ribs, broad on the loin, with a straight, level, or even slightly
depressed back. Round buttocks, straight and firm legs, by no means weak in the
knee, large hoofs, very long and bushy tails, the body covered with thick short hair
of a tawny color." There is no doubt that he understood "judging by the touch;"
they should, he says, be very soft handlers.
X. Rome's Agricultural Writers.
Cato. — Cato claims precedence as first in time, and first in honor, among Roman
writers on agi'iculture. He died in 150 B. C, at the age of eighty-eight. He was a
practical farmer, and recommended precise, if not high, farming. He wrote more,
however, in favor of economy than of improvement. Plutarch lashes him for
heartlessly recommending the sale of worn-out slaves and oxen.
Varro tlie Valiant. — Varro lived during nearly the whole of the century
preceding the Christian era. A general and an admiral, he was a voluminous writer,
but only two of his works have come down to us. In his De Re Rustica he
frequently refers to operations on his own farm, but relies principally upon the
authority of Mago and some Greek writers.
An Orator's Testimony. — The writings of Cicero show some practical knowl-
edge, but relate more to the pleasures than to the labors of agriculture. He regarded
agriculture as an honor to princes, and the ornament and solace of old age.
The Pastoral Poet. — The poet Virgil was born seventy years before Christ.
His "Georgics" may be called a hand-book of agriculture. Its directions are
ample, precise and practical. In it the imagination of the poet never clashes with
the art of the farmer, however smooth the verse and elegant the diction. He has
been accused of borrowing more than a foundation upon which to rear a structure
4
50 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
possessing all the charms of originality. No one who has read this didactic poem
will quarrel either with structure or foundation. The first book treats of the proper
cultivation of the soil. The second tells how to manage fruit trees. The third is
on horses and cattle; the fourth on bees. If original genius did not belong
to Virgil, his taste, skill and powers of versification have made his name remembered
as the greatest pastoral poet of ancient or modern times.
XI. Chronicles of Columella.
CoLF lELLA, who was bom at about the Christian era, wrote twelve books on
agriculture, and is supposed to have established the Merino sheep as a distinct breed
in Spain. He was a native of what is now Spain, and had a farm in the Pyrennees.
He mentions an uncle of his name, who greatly improved his flock by introducing
African rams. Columella wrote more largely of his success in vineyardihg than
in any ofber department of agriculture. Of his twelve books, two are on farming,
three treat of the vine, the olive and orchard fruits, two are devoted to farm and
domestic animals, one to poultry, one to bees, and three to the bailiff, his wife,
and their respective duties — wine, vinegar and other domestic preparations, and the
kitchen garden. From the fact that he excludes the sporting dog from domestic
animals, the inference is plain, that he was well aware of their sheep-killing pro-
propensities. The curs of our day are no less fond of mutton.
Plinjs who died A. D. 79, was a diligent compiler, and not always
discriminating.
Palladius, who wrote A. D. 355, was voluminous, but a copyist of well-
known writers.
XII. Ancient Farms and Implements.
That the agriculture of the Romans in their best days was in every way superior
to that of a century ago, there is every reason to believe. Nor were their implements
so crude and inefficient as they have been represented. They had no expensive
machinery, but neither did America or other countries even so late as a hundred years
ago. Because Attilius Regulus, hearing, while he was pursuing his conquests in
Africa, that the bailiff of his estate of four acres was dead and his slave had run away,
sent to the Senate a catalogue of his spades, rakes, hoes and spuds, with the threat
that if they did not take care of his tools, and replace his bailiff and slave, he would
return immediately home, we are not to take him as the average farmer, but rather as
a suburban cultivator. The fact that sixty-two and a half acres were allotted to a
plow, indicates superior cultivation and large estates, though estates were not
generally so large as now.
A Prophet's Patrimony. — The Book of Kings speaks of the Prophet Elisha
plowing with twelve yoke of oxen, the prophet himself guiding one of the plows.
This, according to the Roman allotment, would show him to have had some eight
hundred acres of plow-land. Ancient plowing must have been superficial, as a rule.
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTURE.
51
for, with our superior implements, sixty acres to the team of horses is good
work. As the ancients were given to caste, perhaps the labors of the farm were
subdivided.
It was the policy of the Eomans to limit the size of farms, and this was the
genius of Carthaginian cultivation. The smaller farms, then as now, were the best
cultivated. Columella is the author of the maxim, that the farm should be weaker
than the farmer, denoting careful tillage.
XIII. Cultivate Little, Cultivate Well.
Pliny is the author of an oft-told and much-garbled story : C. Furius Cresinus,
a freedman, became the object of much ill-will on the part of his neighbors, because
he gathered from a small field much greater
crops than they could from larger fields. They
accused him of attracting the fertility of their
fields through charms. A court day was appointed
to hear the accusation. Cresinus fearing the
result, when the tribe were about to bring in
their verdict, brought his live stock and imple-
ments into the forum, and with him came a stout
serving-woman, who, Pisa says, was well-fed and
well-clad. His iron implements were of excel-
lent manufacture; the spades strong, the plow-
shares powerful, and his oxen in high condition.
"Here, Romans," he exclaimed, "are my charms !
But I cannot show you, or bring into the forum,
my labor of thought, my vigils, nor the sweat of
my brow." Thus, "a little farm well tilled," is
older than Christianity itself. The cuts shows
the more ancient implements of Roman agricul-
ture and successive stages in crude improvements
in the plow. 1, 2 and 3 are ancient Roman plows,
of successive ages. 4 is the Roman yoke and
means of attachments. 5 is the reaping-hook,
and 6 the scythe, and they all belong to an age
anterior to the Christian era.
ANCIENT ROMAN TILLAGE.
XIV. A Fancy Farmer.
Pliny tells of a rich man who ruined himself by his prodigally expensive
outlay in farming, and cites as the general opinion, ''nihil minus expedire quam
agram optime colere," — nothing pays worse than fancy farming. A good many
people are still learning this truth. By his expression, "bonis malis," is meant
52 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
that a thing should be done well and done cheaply. He holds to a middle course,
and says a tenant working himself, and having a family to support, may do some
things profitably, that a mastea* living at a distance and hiring his labor could not
do without ruin. True enough, again, to-day.
XV. Arable Lands and Pastures.
Pasturing was recommended on the score that it required little outlay. Cato
being asked, how can a man get rich quickest by farming, replied, " by being
a good grazier." How next? "By being a middling grazier." The question
being put a third time, the answer was, "by being a bad grazier." Columella
admits that there can be no doubt that middling grazing is more profitable than
the best management in any other line of agriculture. It would not 'be so accepted
now. Indeed, Pliny, while admitting the truth of the first two answers, accuses
Columella of "drawing a long bow" in relating the third, and says, Cato's
inculcation was that we should use those means which bring the largest returns at
the least expense.
XVI. Water Meadows.
Meadows were called by the Romans, prata, quasi parata — always ready to
yield without culture. We all know the value of meadows, where they may be flooded
at will, or watered. Cato's advice is to make them in preference to anything else,
but says, if you cannot get water, nevertheless have meadows. Minute directions are
given how to pass the water slowly and evenly over the land, so as to guard against
stagnation; and says that too much water is as bad as too little. Columella admits
that the grass from rich upland is better than that from watered land, but holds
that from thin land, whether light or heavy, watering is the only means to bring a
good crop.
Precise instructions were given for renewing old and mossy meadows, by breaking
them up. One plan was to, plow and thoroughly work one summer, and sow in the
autumn with turnips or beans, and the next year with grain. The third year the land
must be kept entirely clean of weeds of every kind, and then sown with vetches and
hay-seeds. And special directions were given that the soil be made quite fine and
smooth, so that there may be no impediment to the scythe. New-sown grass must
not be fed to cattle, but the second year small cattle might be allowed to graze on it
if the soil was dry and firm. Pigs were not allowed on meadows, on account of their
rooting. The ancients did not have patent ringers. It was advised that early and
weak meadows should be cleared of stock in January, if a full crop of hay was
desired, but better lands might be pastured until February or March. Upon such
meadows as could not be watered, a dressing of the greenest manure was advised ;
and the pasturage of the aftermath was accounted as of nearly as much value as the
crop of hay — not bad precepts to follow to-day.
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTURE . 53
XVII. A Rich Meadow.
The Campus Rosea was deemed the richest plat of land in Italy, ana it is this
field to which may be traced the English story of the meadow-grass that covered by
its growth the walking-stick of the owner — while he ate his dinner and smoked his
pipe — so he could not find it. The Roman grass, however, required a whole night to
accomplish the feat. Dickson thinks that a single mowing of a Roman meadow (it
must have been a good one) would yield two and a half tons an acre. It is said that
the mowing of a jugurum — three-fifths of an acre — ^was a day's work. The grass
must have been heavy, or the Roman scythes duU. Grass was cut before the seed
was ripe, and the most minute directions were given for curing and storing the hay.
It must not be under-sweated nor overheated. Pliny thought when hay was stored too
green, the sun set the ricks on fire. We know-better. It burns from accumulated
heat within. Scythes were sharpened with oil-stones, and a horn of oil was fastened
to the leg of the mower. Pliny first mentions stones that would whet a scythe with
the aid of water. In Italy short scythes were used, and in Gaul long ones. The
Romans certainly understood haymaking in its minutest details.
XVIII. Boman Rotation.
The usual rotation in Roman agriculture was most simple. It was a crop
and a fallow. One-half of the arable land in grain and one-half fallow.
One-third of the fallow land was sown to some crop to be cut green for
feeding, and this alone was manured. Hence, three grain crops and one green crop
were taken from the land for each manuring. In other words, the whole soil was.
manured once in six years — better manuring than the average American farmer
gives to-day. The naked fallow received three or four plowings in the season,
besides the seed furrow. Wheat and barley were the principal bread grains.
XIX. Roman Small Grains.
Wheat. — ^White, red, black bearded, and smooth wheat are mentioned among
the principal varieties. The Romans understood the varieties adapted to different
soils. Siligo, triticum and far adoreum are named as the best sorts, and Pliny
held that siligo sown in certain soils for three years in succession, would turn to
triticum. Triticum is our botanical name for the wheat tribe. If siligo was what
we now term a pedigree grain, there is no doubt that Pliny was correct. Choice seed
will degenerate, whatever the species. Wheat was generally sown in the autumn,
but, since it was also sown in spring — though this was condemned — they must
have had spring varieties.
Barley. — Barley was sown in September and October, and also in January and
March. The spring sowing of barley was less condemned than spring sowing of
wheat. The ancients doubtless thought wheat would turn to chess, for Pliny says
54 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAi..
that if oats are sown on a certain day of the moon, it will come up barley. Pliny
probably, sometimes " said things sarcastic." He believed in books, for he thought
no book was so bad that something good might not be learned from it.
XX. Some Ancient Methods.
SiviALL, grain was covered with a double mold-board plow, and it was considered a
clumsy plowman who required an occator (a person to cOver in the seed) to follow.
Another plan was to sow on the plowed ridges, and cover with rakes, so lightly that
the ridges were not obliterated. The crop that was covered by the double mold-
board plow was sometimes plowed once, after it had attained some height, but
generally it received two hoeings, one m the autumn and another in the spring. This
seems to have been universal, and sometimes three or four hoeings were given.
Hand-weeding was also practiced, if necessary. The Romans were clean farmers.
XXI. Antique Crops.
Besides the cereal grains, pasture and meadow grasses and millet, the ancients
cultivated green crops for soiling. Cicer (pulse) is mentioned. Vetch, lentil, lupin,
fenugreek, peas and beans were commonly grown. Lucerne seems to have been
much raised, and one sowing is said to have lasted ten, or, as Pliny says, thirty years.
Hemp, flax and poppy were also cultivated. Pliny tells how flax was used for fine
linen, sail-cloth, wicks, fish-nets, snares for wild beasts, and says that each thread in
a breast-plate, then extant, of Amasis, King of Egypt, consisted of three hundred
and sixty-five ply. Flax, then as now, was considered an exhausting crop.
XXII. Crops Pulled by Hand.
The word legum, or legume, seems to have been used to denote all plants or
crops that were pulled by hand; for not only peas and beans, but flax, hemp, turnips,
rape and radish were so gathered. Turnips were sown after five plowings, on dry
friable soil, in manured rows, and thinned to eight inches apart. Pliny records a
turnip weighing forty pounds, and says they were valuable in ornamental cookery,
because capable of receiving six colors besides their own, one of them purple, — a fact
that may be valuable to fancy cooks of the present day. The crop was subject to the
fly, then as now. These pests were fought by steeping, by the use of soot, etc.
Columella says that in Gaul turnips were fed to cattle and sheep ; and so England is
not the only country where turnips may have been the sheet-anchor of agriculture.
XXIII. Fallow Crops.
The belief was prevalent among the ignorant that certain crops, even if gathered
and carried away, improved the soil — a belief now disproved. Intelligent people
knew better. Columella says: "Some tell us that a crop of beans stand in the place
of a manuring of the land, which opinion I would interpret thus : not that one can
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTUUK. 55
make the land richer by sowing them, but that this crop will exhaust the land less
than some others. For of this I am certain, that land that has had nothing on it will
produce more wheat than that which has produced pulse the preceding yeai." We of
to-day know well that a covered fallow — a crop sown and plowed under — is more
enriching than a naked fallow.
The ancients seem to have been aware of this, for they did sow, for plowing
under, beans, vetches, and especially lupines. So it is quite probable that they used
the naked fallow, as we do, for cleaning the soil of weeds.
XXIV. Ancient Harvesting.
The ancient mode of harvesting was by means of the sickle, not unlike that
practiced one hundred years ago. They also harvested grain with a machine that
gathered the heads in a comb-like arrangement, the straw being cut afterwards,
probably with a scythe.
The Romans, however, usually cut with the sickle, the straw being taken about
the middle. This upper part was fed to cattle, after threshing, and the butts were
used as bedding for stock. Some nations, according to Pliny, pulled the grain by the
roots, imagining that disturbing the surface was beneficial to the soil. The shield of
Achilles shows reaping by means of the sickle, and with much division of labor.
Homer says the practice of rich men was to start a gang of reapers at each end of the
field; and he likens their approach towards each other to that of the Greek and
Trojan hosts in conflict.
Reaping Machines. — Reaping machines were known in Rome. They are
mentioned both by Pliny and Palladius, the latter saying that they were used on the
large farms in Gaul. They were as primitive as they were unwieldy.
Threshing. — Threshing was performed both with the flail and by tramping by
cattle and horses; also by machines drawn by cattle, one having teeth and the other
rollers. The grain was generally threshed immediately after harvest, and often in the
fields where it was cut. Whei'e permanent threshing-floors were made, much care
and skill were used. They were made of rolled and hard-rammed earth, mixed with
lees of oil. Columella says the floor is better if straw is used with the mixture.
Finely broken flint, such as macadam roads are now composed of, is also spoken of;
also flagged earth, or a surface of flag-stones. Virgil is both precise and poetical in
his description of a threshing-floor.
Winnowing. — The grain was cleaned by throwing it from shovels against the
wind. Some sort of fanning-mill must also have been used, for Columella recommends
it, and Virgil mentions among the " duris agrestibus arma" this improvement, as
"m,istica vannus Jacchi.'"
XXV. Eoman Fertilizers.
The ancients would seem to have been as careful savers of manure as the
Chinese now are. The value of all animals on the farm as manure-makers is
5() THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
minutely estimated. Curiously enough, they considered the manure of water-fowl
as of very little value. Pliny sneers at Columella for considering the manure of
pigs not worth much. Possibly, Columella's pigs were poorly fed. The ancients,
at least, understood that, "the richer the feed the better . the manure." Every
available thing was used to increase the compost heap — leaves, litter-road scraping, etc.
Both Pliny and Columella enjoin that the heaps shall be covered, so as to suffer
neither by drying in the wind nor parching in the sun. Also, that the bottom be
water-tight, so that the liquid parts cannot escape. "It is an idle farmer," says
Columella, " who does not get together some manure, even though he keeps no
cattle." He also delicately hints that the manure-pile need not necessarily occupy
the front yard, so to speak. Oak leaves are recommended to be mixed in the
pile, or else a stake driven through, " to prevent serpents breeding in the manure."
This is no worse than some of the superstitions that prevail nowadays.
XXVI. A Question not yet Settled.
The value of fermented as compared with unfermented manure was much
discussed by Roman writers. Cato and Varro held that manure heaped, turned and
rotted down was stronger than green manure. Columella and Palladius held that the
only good of fermentation was to destroy the seeds of weeds, and that it weakened
the manure. Those who have prepared manure in water-tight yards, will probably
agree with Cato and Varro. Palladius was a mere copyist at best. From where he
got the idea that sea-weed should be washed before it is applied as manure, he does
not say. Neither has a list of sidewalk farmers, other than himself, come down to
us. Was Palladius the originator of the guild?
XXVII. Little and Often.
A LITTLE manure often applied was considered the best, and it was k;nown then,
as now, that manure does not produce so great an effect on wet land as on dry. Why
should it? Manure that is dissolved and escapes over the surface is lost.
Dickson says that about eight hundred bushels of manure, well prepared, was an
average Eoman cast. Not too much, certainly, when the land was only manured
once in six years. It is not more than good modern gardeners apply annually, but,
perhaps, more than the average farmer now gives his land even once in six years.
XXVIII. Commercial Fertilizers.
Limb and marl were much used for manure. Six varieties of marl are recorded.
There was clayey for light lands, and sandy marl for stiff soils. A rock-like marl is
mentioned, which did not become reduced for many years, and one kind brought
from Britain, where it was dug from pits thirty yards (?) deep, is said to have
held the fertility of the land for eighty years. The ancients seem to have known how
to advertise their wares fully as well as the modern fertilizer man.
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTURE. 57
XXIX. Ancient Plowing.
The number of plowings the ancients gave their fallows prove that they were no
mean plowmen. Dickson would have us believe that their ordinary plowing was nine
inches deep, and, from the fact that Pliny says that, once in the fallow course, it was
not unusual to attach six or eight oxen to a plow, the probability is that at such times
the soil was deeply stirred. Their word sulcus meant a certain breadth stirred up,
and the object of their fallow plowing was thoroughly to stir all the soil to an equal
depth. They plowed narrow lines of equal breadth. A good Roman plowman would
leave the surface so even that it would be difficult to tell the lines of soil moved by
the plow. Each line must be perfectly straight. The characteristic of Roman plowing
was precision.
Because the plows had no mold-boards, as we understand the term, the plowman
returned upon his own furrow, plowing back and forth.
Plowing uneven breadths, sulco vario, was condemned. If the ground was left
lumpy it was called scamna, and this was thought to bring a bad name to the land.
Crooked plowing was called prcevaricare, and Pliny says this term was afterwards used
in the law courts to designate those who testified falsely or told crooked stories. The
word has come down to our time, to denote crookedness. The ridge upon which the
grain was sown was called lira and porca, implying a ridge-backed sow. There are
not a few plowmen nowadays who "prevaricate" and make "ridge-backed" sows of
their two-back furrows.
Cato forbade his bailiff to plow land when wet, to cart over it, or even to allow
the treading of cattle, because it would not recover in three years. Various ancient
authors say if you plow wet land you lose the whole season. How many farmers of
to-day know this? Very few it seems, for they go on plowing, even stiff clay, year
after year, when so wet that the fields dry into great lumps and clods somewhat softer
only than half -burned bricks.
XXX. Plows.
It is generally supposed that ancient plows were pretty much after one pattern,
and all of them of the crudest make. The more ancient ones, certainly, were mere
pointed sticks, as we have shown. There is no proof that any of them turned a
furrow completely over, and pulverized it. Neither did the plows of one hundred
years ago. It is only within the last forty years that plows have been brought to
moderate perfection. Adam Dickson, who wrote in the last half of the last century
(in 1764, he published the first volume of a "Treatise of Agriculture") exhaustively
investigated the construction of Roman plows. Here are his conclusions:
The ancients had all the different kinds of plows that we have at present in
Europe, though perhaps not so exactly constructed. They had plows without mold-
boards, and plows with mold-boards; plows without coulters, and plows with
coulters; plows without wheels, and plows with wheels. They had broad-pointed
58 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
shares and narrow-pointed shares. They even had, what he says, "I have not, as
yet, met with among moderns — shares not only with sharp sides and points, but
also with high-raised cutting tops.,"
Were we well acquainted with the construction of all these, perhaps it would be
found that the improvements made by the moderns up to one hundred years ago,
in this implement of cultivation, are not so great as many persons believe.
XXXI. Seeding.
The Romans had many good notions about sowing.. One was: "Early sowing
sometimes deceives the husbandman ; late sowing, never — ^because the crop is always
bad." Their usual mode of sowing was broadcast, or, more properly, overcast, like
that of the ancient Egyptians. The sowing was always single-handed. Two-handed
casting does not seem to have been knOwn. The Romans paid great attention to the
seed. It must be sound, plump and well-formed. It was carefully selected in the
field, while the crop was still uncut. The standard quantity of wheat sown per acre
would seem to have been somewhat less than two and a quarter bushels. Two bushels
seem to have been the least quantity, and two and a half bushels the maximum
quantity per acre.
OLD MOORISH PLOW.
XXXII. Yield Per Acre.
Vakbo claims ten bushels of crop for one of seed, in the average, and fifteen for
one in very rich land. This was on the basis of about two bushels sown per acre.
Cicero quotes the rich lands of Sicily as yieldmg eight for one, on the basis of two
and a half bushels of seed per acre. He records that in Columella's time, over the
greater part of Italy, the usual return was not more than four to one. Hence we see
that in ancient agriculture, as in modern, the continued sowing of wheat always cauged
ANCIENT AND MODERN AGRICULTURE.
59
deterioration of the soil. The rule will apply, and without exception, to all crops,
unless due provision is made for re-fertilizing, or resting the soil.
XXXIII. Mediaeval and Modern Agriculture.
The Dark Ages carried the world almost back to barbarism. Then there was no
progress. The Moorish plow was as good as the best. One much like it was used
in Mexico fifty years ago, and probably is to-day in some portions of that country.
If the implements shown by drawings preserved in the British Museum are an index
to the agriculture of the early Norman period,
it was crude, indeed, even making allowance for
the art of drawing in those days.
The illustration here shows the state of
British agriculture soon after the Norman con-
quest of England. 1 represents the plow and
a rough hatchet or maul carried by the plowman
for breaking the clods. 2 is a sower casting the
grain. 3 is a reaper with reaping-hook. 4,
threshing. 5, the scythe, and mode of sharpen-
ing the blade. 6, beating and, breaking hemp.
To show how slow was agricultural progress in
some regions, we illustrate a plow in actual use
in the Orkney Islands not more than forty years
ago. The yoke is not a bad copy of the most
ancient plow and yoke (Chinese) known, and
supposed to have been common in the days of
the Patriarch Abraham. An interesting com-
panion picture to these is the modern English
steam plow, worked by a stationary engine on each side of the field. The engines
move forward from time to time, and anchor themselves as the plowing progresses.
Steam plows moved by the
traction power of the engine
have so far been found im-
practical, though many have
been invented in England,
and more in the United
States, only to prove failures.
In fact, steam plowing is not
a success in America gen-
erally. Horses and cattle, and
their food, are too cheap. Besides, the necessary teams for the other farm work, and
the marketing of the crops, will also do the cultivating. In the great corn region of
NORSIAN FARM TOOLS.
PLOWING IN THE ORKNEY ISLANDS.
60
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
the country, it requires about the same teams and hands to do the cultivating that
are required for the plowing. Besides, wood for fuel is becoming scarcer in the
West every year, and it may long remain cheaper to raise corn for work-stock
than to buy coal for steam plowing.
CHAPTER HI.
MODERN FARM IMPLEMENTS.
I. A EEVOLUTION IN FIFTY YEARS II. THE PIONEER'S PLOW. III. THE FIRST STEEL PLOW.
IV. THE WEBSTER PLOW. V. THE PLOW OF TODAY. ^VI. THE ART OF PLOWING. ^VII. LAYING
OUT THE L.VND. — Vin. TURNING THE FIRST FURROW. — IX. THE BACK FURROW. — X. RE-PLOWING. —
XI. SUBSOIL PLOWING. XII. FRENCH PLOWING. XIII. IMPLEMENTS FOR SMOOTHING AND DISIN-
TEGRATING. XIV. LEVELING, COMPACTING AND GRINDING. XV. THE PLANK SOIL GRINDER.
XVI. THE LEVELEE. XVII. IMPLEMENTS OF CULTIVATION. XVIII. HISTORY OF THE CULTIVA-
TOR. XIX. ONE-HORSE CULTIVATORS. XX. SEEDING MACHINES. XXI. THE GRAIN DRILL.
XXII. CORN PLANTERS. XXIII. HARVESTING MACHINERY. XXIV. USE ONLY THE BEST.
XXV. PLOWING IRREGULAR AREAS.
II. A Revolution in Fifty Years.
|HE farm implements of fifty years ago were of the rudest construction, by
i comparison with those of to-day. In Europe, and especially in England, some
y progress was made from time to time, but until the investigations of Jefferson
and others in the United States started the era of improvement in iron plows,
there was no radical or permanent advance. The iron plow of Jethro Wood in 1819,
marks the beginning of the revolution.
II. The Pioneer's Plow.
In a report to the New York State Agricultural Society in 1856, Mr. A. B. Allen
thus describes the plows of the early part of the century: "A winding tree was cut
down, and a inold-boai'd hewed from it, with the grain of the timber running as
nearly along its shape as it could well be obtained. On to this mold-board, to
prevent its wearing out too rapidly, were nailed the blade of an old hoe, thin straps
of iron, or worn-out horseshoes. The land-side was of wood, its base and sides
shod with thin plates of iron. The share was of iron, with a hardened steel point.
The coulter was tolerably well made of iron, steel edged, and locked into the share
nearly as it does in the improved lock coulter plow of the (then) present day. The
beam was usually a straight stick. The handles, like the mold-board, split from the
crooked trunk of a tree, or as often cut from its branches; the crooked roots of
the white ash were the most favorite timber for plow handles in the Northern States.
The beam was set at any pitch that fancy might dictate, with the handles fastened
on almost at right angles with it, leaving the plowman little control over his
implement, which did its work. in a very slow and imperfect manner."
III. The First Steel Plow.
We have seen plows such as Mr. Allen describes in use in the West considerably
less than fifty years ago. In fact, up to foriy years ago, most of the ground
[61 J
62
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
was broken with plows with
wooden mold-boards covered with strips of iron.
Middle-aged men may easily remember when their
fathers first brought home the steel plow. It is
a Western invention, without which our mucky soils
could not have been successfully cultivated. It is
an open question, whether Deere, of Moline, or
Lane, of Yankee Settlement, near Lockpoil, Illinois,
made the first steel plow. They both made the first
mold-boards out of saw-plates. Then came cast
plows, cast-steel plows, and next, plows of silver
steel, so that now we have implements that will
scour perfectly, if properly kept, even in the
worst soils.
IV. The "Webster Plow.
The plow that the great " Expounder of the
Constitution" helf)ed to make, and which he held,
in breaking a piece of bad, gi'ubby land, at his home
in Marshfield, was always a source of pride to the
statesman. It was shown at the Centennial Exhi-
bition, and attracted much attention. It was an
immense, clumsy and heavy affair, drawn by a long
string of oxen; and yet, forty years ago, it was
not a bad ]plow for stumpy and grubby land. The
engi'aving is an exact representation of this histoi-ic
implement. The plow of to-day will do better
work with half the team.
V. The Plow of To-day.
The plows of to-day may be said to have reached
perfection. They combine lightness of draft, with
great excellence of work. The notion is now dis-
carded, that one plow can be adapted to all the uses
of the farm. The different kinds of plows are now
counted by hundreds. We have stirring plows,
stubble jilows, deep tillers and subsoil plows. There
are trenching plows, plows for turning meadow,
pastures, broken sward, low-land and upland prairie.
For laying flat inverted furrows, there is a special
descrij)tion of plow, and also for lap furrows,
and there are even plows for setting the fuiTows
on the edge.
MODERN FARM IMPLEMENTS. 63
The old cast plow is a thing of the past. For sandy or other soils that scour
fairly the chilled plow is much used. The polished steel share cleaves its way in all
difficult soils, doing its work perfectly; and in all soils not unusually trashy the debris.
PLOW WITH CHAIN FOE TURNING UNDER TRASH.
4,
is effectually turned under if the plowman attends to his business. For turning
under growing crops and weeds there are so many appliances that it would be difficult
to enumerate them. The chain drag and the trash cleaning attachment, shown in the
PLOW WITH ATTACHMENT FOR CLEARING TRASH.
illustrations, explain themselves. The object with every form of chain or hook is
simply to catch the material to be plowed under and drag it forward into the position
where the furrow in closing down will cover it. The longer the trash the less does it
need pressing. Uneven or short material is the hardest to cover. The favorite plow
in the great prairie regions of the West is the gang stubble plow, worked by three or
four horses, as shown in the engraving on next, page.
VI. The Art of Plowing.
The furrows must be straight and even; whether the furrows be shallow or deep,
the depth should be uniform. The lands once laid out straight and of uniform widths.
i;-i
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
there is no trouble in keeping the furrows straight. Even in stumpy land and land with
large rocks that must be plowed around, there is no need that the furx'ows remain
permanently crooked. A little calculation at the proper points in narrowing the
furrows or running them completely out, will soon bring the furrows straight again.
There is nothing lost by this. There will be no more furrows to plow and the furrows
are turned equal, to say nothing of the shocking appearance of a field plowed in a
hap-hazard way.
VII. Laying Out the Lands.
Suppose the field is to be plowed in regular lands, two rods wide. Select four poles
eight feet three inches long, and perfectly straight. Fasten a short flag to each pole,
GANG STUBBLE PLOW.
and provide two baskets filled with inch-square, sharpened pegs, twelve inches long. Let
an assistant take two poles, one of the baskets of pegs, and a hammer, reserving a
similar outfit for yourself. Measure on opposite sides of the field twice the length of
a pole, and place it securely, one at each side of the field. Sighting along these, let
the assistant advance one-quarter across the field, and set his second pole, moving it
one way and another until you find it in a direct line with the other two. If the lands
are very long, still another pole may be necessary. Drive a peg securely in each of
these mai'ks. , Then the assistant measures four lengths of the pole, or two rods, from
the next land at the end. You do the same, and then he sights for you to fix the
second pole. Drive pegs as befpre, and so proceed until you have the whole field laid
off. Then fix the flag-poles at the peg marks.
VIII. .Turning the First Furrows.
The next thing is to turn the back furrows, or two first furrows of each land.
This is especially necessary when several plowmen are employed. Many who can do
MODERN FARM IMPLEMENTS. 65
fair work, after a land is laid out, fail utterly in laying out or plowing the first
furrows. They either plow crooked or make balks, or both. Others, again, will lay
out lands correctly, and yet become inattentive to their work in plowing. The merit
of a field of plowing is the poorest furrow laid — not the best — and the test of the
work in laying out lands is to be able to drive a "fresh team" straight across a
forty-acre field. Have the reins so they will carry the horses' heads rather wide apart,
in order that the plowman can see between the team and to the stakes beyond.
Arrange the lines so they will have about six inches or moi"e slack when the team is
pulling, and hang on the left handle of the plow. Take the lines in one, two or three
fingers of the left hand, in such a manner that a pull straight back will bring the team
to the left. If you wish to turn to the right, carry the hand to the left and pull the
line around the handle of the plow. Have the plow sharp and perfectly bright. A
little practice will, by keeping your eye constantly on the stakes ahead, enable you to
drive a straight furrow, however long the distance. But if the land is irregular,
stakes enough must be set for you to have two always in line. If the team are
fractious, plow them upon the land first laid out until they become steady.
IX. The Back Purro-w.
It is usual, in drawing the first furrow, to turn the plow somewhat over, so
the share will cut less at the edge than at the heel — especially if the back furrow is
to be turned into the first furrow made, thus cutting all the soil. Then in coming
back, the plow should be so set as to do this, plowing a flat furrow-slice, with
the off horse walking in the furrow. Twice up and back ought to prepare any land
so the plowman following, will have clean furrows to begin with. Then make
him keep them so. The lands as you leave them for the plowman should show two
furrows, one on top of the others, and the other two sharply lapped against them.
This is the plan that should be followed for all plowing, unless the ground is simply
to be stirred, or in re-plowing land that was plowed in the fall. In the latter case, it
is sometimes admissible to lap the first two furrows, one against the other. Then
the merit of the work is that the first two furrow-slices turned, shall leave each
furrow clean for the plowmen.
Drainage Furrows. — Having laid out one land, proceed in the same manner
with the others, until you have the whole field laid out. This often serA'^es the double
purpose of regularity in the lands, and drainage, if wet weather ensues. If the
eye is good, one may often save a week's time in drying the land, by plowing
furrows through the field along the lines of natural drainage, as early as possible
in the season, and previous to lajdng out the regular lands.
Prairie or Sward. — In breaking prairie or sward land, the practice of laying
the two first furrows together, so they just meet, is usually followed. We prefer
cutting the two first furrows thin, and laying one on top of the other, thus cutting
the whole of the soil.
66
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
X. Be-plowlng.
■ If the land has been fall-plowed, and is to be re-plowed in the spring, we prefer
in laying out lands to throw two light furrows out to start with and then cover them
back. This is the best plan unless it is desired to still further ridge up the soil, in
which case the first furrow may be laid as previously directed. This plowing, however,
should never be deep. The deep plowing, if necessary, should have been done in the
fall, and the spring plowing should be done with a stirring plow, the notion being
simply to loosen up the surface. Many persons do this with a corn cultivator. We
STIRRING AND STUBBLE PLOW.
have never found any saving in this, since the ground must be gone over several
times in order to make the work equal to plowing. The stirring and stubble plow
shown is much liked in the South and Southwest, and especially in Texas, as a plow
for general use. It is used to best advantage in loams and other soils containing a
fair proportion of sand
XI. Subsoil Plowing.
Many persons use the words subsoil plowing when trench plowing is meant.
Trench plowing is inverting one furrow over another by one turning plow following in
the track of another. Subsoil plowing is simply loosening up soil in the bottom of
the furrow to a depth of four or six or more inches, as may be desired, and leaving the
mellowed subsoil lying in the furrow to be again covered by the next furrow, the
upper soil remaining on top. Subsoil plowing is not advantageous except on naturally
dry soils or artificially drained ones. On undrained soils, when they become wet and
sodden after subsoiling, the value of the subsoiling is destroyed. On drained soils,
for special crops, it is of great value in increasing the depth of the tilth, and this will
remain for years from a single subsoiling.
XII. Trench Plowing.
Trench plowing, as before said, is the inverting of one furrow on another, or
the mixing the two furrow-sHces more or less together. The Michigan subsoil plow
MODERN FARM lArPLEMENTS.
fi7
is, in reality, a trench plow, inverting one furrow ui^on another. Many of the
best gang plows are now fitted not only to perform this operation, but also
to mix the soil. They are much
used now for covering under sward,
for special crops, by which a deep
and cultivable tilth is left on the
surface. The illustration shows the
skin, or sod-slice, a, turning into
the bottom of the furrow, c ; and b
shows the thiclc sub-furrow and its
twist, in the iDrocess of being inverted
on the sod-slice. Trench j^lowing,
in connection with manure, is prac-
ticed in mellow soil, where deep
tillage is necessary, as for root and
other special crops. As a rule, deep
trench plowing should never be done
except where plenty of manure is
used. And trench plowing should
not be given to thih, poor soils. It skin add trench furrow, in trench plowing.
often pays, however, say to a depth of eight inches, when it is necessary care-
fully to cover under trash, leaving a clean
surface for cultivation.
Figure 1 shows trench plowing ten inches
deep, the capacity of the plow for lifting
having been exhausted at this dej^th. Now,
if it is desired to go still deeper, the bank
of earth must be removed as in Fisrure 2.
In theory it seems easy. In practice it does
not work. It may be partly done with the plow, but must be finished with shovels.
By successive removals, and with proper
plows, a dejith of twenty to twenty-two
inches may be gotten with eighteen inches of
clean furrow, as shown in Figure 3, provided
the soil is a pretty firm loam. In lighter
soils the furrow will be more largely filled,
as shown by the dark line below, in Figure 3.
The cuts ai"e used mainly to show the im-
practicable nature of very deep trenching.
Fortunately, the theory which advocated it some years ago is exploded. Deep
trenching is now never done excejit for some special crop, and then only in con-
nection with large quantities of manure. Subsoiling has taken its place.
Fig. ].
TRENCH PLOWING, TEN INCHES DEEP.
Fig. 2.
THE FURROW MOVED BACK.
68
THE HOME AND FARM MANXTAL.
The Subsoil. — When a subsoil plow is run in the teix-inch furrow, the subsoil is
left pulverized in the furrow, and will fill
the furrow quite half full, by reason of
its lying lighter than before. A depth of
sixteen inches may thus be obtained, and
the subsoil will lie in the furrow up to
the top of the dark line shown running
to a point in Fig. 3. But it will be uni-
formly, and you have the subsoil where
In Chapter I, Part ITI, the subject
Fig. 3.
DEEP TRENCH PLOWING.
it ought to be, in the bottom of the furrow
will be again referred to.
XIII, Implements for Smoothing and Disintegrating'.
The principal smoothing and fining implement is the harrow. There are now
many varieties of harrows, but only two principal forms are used, the one with teeth
placed perpendicularly, the other with the teeth inclined more or less back. Some of
them are arranged so they may be used at will, with the teeth slanting or straight.
There are also many modifications of the principle involved in the harrow, by which
curved and cutting teeth, or shares, are fixed in a frame for slicing the soil. There
are also discs or hollowed wheels which slice and raise the soil. This latter device
has also been applied to the cultivation of crops with more or less success, and also
to plowing, the concave surface of the wheel throwing - the earth outward as it
cuts its way through the soil.
The Rotary Harrow. — One of the most perfect forms of the harrow, for
simply stirring and disintegrating the soil, is the rotary harrow, which revolves as it
passes forward, and which is adjusted by loading a box on top, more or less, with earth
or stones. It has this advantage that, in revolving, the teeth free themselves of trash.
It is useful on trashy and especially on compacted soils.
The Double Harrow. — The form of harrow best adapted to the general uses
of the farm is the square,
double harrow, jointed in the
middle for ease in lifting and
freeing it from trash. "What-
ever the fx-ame adopted, it is
indispensable that the teeth may
be easily removed for sharpen- full-sized harrow with teeth slanting.
ing, and that, when replaced, they remain firmly fixed. The teeth should be of well-
temjoered steel, and always sharp. A dull harrow is
costly in its work, because inefficient. It is ahindrance
that no good farmer will tolerate. The illustrations
show, in two positions, one of the best forms of
square harrows, the teeth of which may be used
slanting or upright, single or double, and which will fold compactly for transportation.
HARROW FOLDED.
MODERN FARM IMPLEMENTS.
69
XIV. Leveling, Compacting and Grinding.
There are various implements, of more or less intricate construction, for
leveling, grinding or compacting the surface of the soil. Except the roller, the
necessary implements may be made on the farm. The use of the smooth roller is
now almost entirely abandoned, except when it is necessary to compact the surface.
It has little of the grinding action that is necessary to break down lumps and
clods. It simply presses them into the surface, to be again dragged out intact if
the land is subsequently harrowed. The corrugated roller does grind, as well as
compress, and hence is superior. For settling and compressing roads, the smooth
roller is valuable, and its use is now pretty much confined to this purpose.
SECTIONAL IRON FIELD ROLLER.
On some soils, especially light, fluffy ones, requiring strong compression, the
roller is indispensable. For breaking down clods, it has almost entirely gone into
disuse. It simply presses them into the earth, and does not disintegrate them.
It is, nevertheless, valuable for compacting meadows when they heave. It presses
the soil firmly about grass and other seeds, and for a variety of uses on the farm,
the sectional iron roller is best.
XV. The Plank Soil Grinder.
This has come to be one of the most efficient implements on the farm, for
grinding down lumps and clods, and reducing the surface to a firm tilth. It has
sufficient direct pressure to firm the surface, so as to
bring the earth into direct and close contact with
small seeds. To make this implement, select five
two-inch hardwood planks, eight feet long and eight
inches wide, and one of the same length for the
forward piece ten inches wide. Spike or pin these
together, lapping one edge on the other two inches,
as in weather-boarding a house
to hold it solid,
slip over it
ffr
Wl
NDER.
Turn it over, and pin two strips from front to rear
This is drawn over the field so the laps will not dig into .the soil, but
A chain fastened to hooks two feet from each end, will form a triangular
70 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
hitching point, and if not heavy enough to do the work, a boy may ride when driving,
being located at a suitable point so the implement will run straight. The cut fully
explains itself, and shows the riding stool.
XVI. The Leveler.
This is another important and easily-made implement for the farm. Its use
is to bring a field comparatively even and level, when flax, roots, or other special
field crops are to be raised. It is made of four pieces, eight feet long, of 4x4
hardwood scantling, pinned together, sixteen inches apart, and so braced that each
piece is firmly held. The front loXver edge of the first and third scantlings is
rounded so they will incline to slip over the soil. The second and rear pieces are
left with sharp edges. It is drawn by means of a chain, as shown in the plank
grinder. The operator rides on a plank thrown across the top, changing his position
as may be necessary to make the leveler run straight. The soil, where it projects,
will be caught and deposited in the lower places. Its action is both grinding and
smoothing, and, when necessary, the earth may be thrown to one side or the other,
by a change of position of the driver. Its use, however, should be entrusted only
to a good driver, and one of sound judgment, who will take advantage of any-
thing that will assist in leveling the field. With this implement, a sharp harrow, and
the grinding planks, a field may be put in condition for almost any garden crop.
XVII. Implements of Cultivation.
The implements already described are those principally used in the preparation
of. the soil. The first two are indispensable to every farm. The two last named are
indispensable for all crops that need a smooth, fine surface, as, for instance, grass.
As an implement of tillage, the harrow plays an important part, especially the
smoothing and other slender-toothed harrows, for stirring and loosening the surface of
the soil. A sharp harrow is often useful for scarifying an old meadow, and especially
a pasture when more seed is to be sown. If a field of wheat, or other grain, becomes
badly crusted, a light harrow is needed. In the first cultivation of corn, and other
hoed crops, its use is well known. The implement of cultivation, however, that has
revolutionized the production of hoed crops, is that originally known as the straddle-
row cultivator, and now as the walking cultivator, which completely finishes a row of
corn each time through.
XVIII. History of the Cultivator.
Horse cultivators began to be used in the eighteenth century. Jethro Tull was
che father of drill husbandry. From time to time, horse hoes were improved, and
were at last developed into the straddle-row implement of the present day. It is said
that the original idea was applied in England as long ago as 1701, but, while the
principle — the cultivation of one or more rows at a time — is the same, the successive
improvements have been so numerous and important, that now eight to twelve acres
MODERN FARM IMPLEMKN'JVS.
71
may be cultivated to a man and team, in a day, much better than a single acre could
have been done thirty years ago with the implements then in use. Not only is level
cultivation accomplished, but hilling and ridging are much better done with .this
WALKING CITLTIVATOR.
implement than with the plow. The cut shows a cultivator with plows that may be
reversed, to throw earth to or from the hill, or to press the earth equally to each side.
XIX. One-Horse Cultivators.
Notwithstanding the general use of two-horse machines, there are many
farmers who still use the single five-tooth cultivator or some modification of it.
The Eastern farmer whose corn planting in a single year would be between five
and ten acres would have little use
for the two-horse machine. The
home of the latter implement is
on the prairies. North and South,
or where more crops are raised
in large fields. Still the double
or single shovel plow and the one-
horse cultivator will not go out of
fashion. In the smaller fields
perhaps the most important single-
horse implement that combines
level and hill cultivation is the
horse hoe.
The Horse Hoe. — This is simply an improved shovel plow or bull tongue.
From the top of the shares there is expanded a wing on each side. These are so
adjustable that they may be set off at any required angle. They catch the earth as
it is pressed outward, and move it slowly back into a ridge, lower or higher, as
may be desired. Thus, excellent ridges may be raised for sweet potatoes, or crops
FIVE-TOOTHBD CULTIVATOE.
72 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
requiring ridges; or, with it, any crop, such as potatoes, celery, etc., naay be hilled
to the required height. During the early cultivation of the crop, the wings are not
used, and the soil is simply stirred. The implement is not recommended for flat
cultivation, but except this, it is most thorough in its work. A form known as the
double-shovel plow gives better satisfaction in working corn than the five-toothed
cultivator, and the latter is now mostly used for garden crops.
XX. Seeding Machines.
Seeding machines stand next to cultivating implements in the rank of useful
farm tools. They are as indispensable in the garden as in the field, and not only save
seed by distributing it more equally and regularly, but enable the cultivators, in drill
husbandry, to cover the. seed to the exact depth wanted. They are not, however,
confined to drills. There are broadcast sowers, with or without covering attach-
ments. Probably the most valuable to the small farmer is that form which turns
with a crank, and casts the seed in spiral circles from a cone-shaped orifice, distribu-
ting the seed evenly and perfectly. One man will ,sow from ten to fifteen acres a
day, and with the large machine — which maybe attached to any farm wagon — we
have sown one hundred and ten acres of wheat in a day of ten hours
XXI. The Grain Drill..
No person who makes wheat raising an important part of his farm work can
afford to be without an improved force-feed grain drill. They will seed and cover at
one operation, with a span of horses, from eight to twelve acres a day, and in seeding
one hundred acres will save their cost in a single season. • For sowing all kinds of
garden crops, or for field cultivation of root crops, the single-row drill will be found
indispensable. The best of these now have markers
attached, which mark the next row while seeding
the first. They open the furrow, deposit the seed
as desired — much or little — and cover as fast as a
man can walk. For field work, a larger machine,
drawn by a horse, is used. In fact, any of these!
larger ones may be so drawn, by hitching the
horse to the end of a light rope, six feet long, fas-
cr.,=.T, o^T,r,.o tened to the machine. In this manner it is easily
controlled, and if the horse swerves from the
line, the drill may, nevertheless, be kept true.
XXII. Corn Planters.
Not less important to the farmer is the check-row corn pianter. Without it, the
great cornfields of the West and South could not be planted. The check-row attach-
ment is an important part of the machine. The corn is dropped with much more
precision than can be done by a boy sitting on the machine, and besides, the marking
MODERN FARM IMPLEMENTS. 73
of the land is entirely clone away with. It will plant from eight to twelve acres a clay
much better than can be clone by hand, unless great care is taken. The seed is
dropped in narrow and exact lines, a matter of no small importance in the subsequent
cultivation, especially in harrowing the young corn, as it is less likely to be torn out
by the harrow.
XXIII. Harvesting Machinery.
Next in importance to implements of cultivation, are harvesting implements.
These are now of so many kinds, that a somewhat critical knowledge is necessary to
determine the relative merits of one to another. With modern machinery on a
Western or Southern farm, the master may ride and do perfectly almost all the work
required to prepare the land, seed, cultivate, harvest and store away the crop. In
pitching hay and grain on the wagon, some hand-work must be done. In pitching
hay from the wagon to the stack or mow, machinery alone may be used; so also in
gathering the hay from the windrow, and automatically carrying it on to the wagon.
Hay is taken from the cock, and with a sweep is carried to the stack, deposited on a
carrier, which raises it on the stack without touching it with the hand. It is mowed,
raked, cocked, carried and stacked by machinery. Grain is cut, bound and delivered
in lots of a dozen bundles, from the machine, ready for shocking. The steam
thresher then separates the grain from the straw, separates the foul seeds from the
good, bags it up, and keeps tally of the bushels.
XXIV. Use Only the Best.
The great improvements in farm machinery, that cause all these operations to be
so perfectly performed, from plowing the field to cleaning the grain, have been made
within the last thirty years. Any farmer who does not make use of them is far
behind the times, and is working at such a disadvantage that he will surely be
distanced in the struggle* for wealth. It is in the great agricultural region of the
Mississippi Valley, lying between the slopes of the Alleghanies and the Eocky
Mountains, and between the great Northern Lakes and the Gulf, and on the Pacific
slope, that agricultural machinery may most economically be employed. The influx
of population yearly pouring into this region from more eastern States, and from
foreign countries, attests the ease with which farms may be made . and competence
secured to the in-comer. How to do this most easily and economically, will be
unfolded as this volume progresses.
XXV. Plowing Irregular Areas.
The New York State Agricultural Society had diagrams prepared, some years
ago, showing how to plow irregular fields. It is often economical, especially in small
fields, to plow without dead furrows. We here give these diagrams, and also the text
fully explaining them.
Dead furrows are a nuisance, especially where hoed crops are cultivated; and
74
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAIi.
Kg. 1-
when land is stocked down for meadows, deep dead furrows make an uneven surface
for the mowers and horse-rakes to work over. When a
field is plowed in lands beginning on the outside, turning
all the furrows outward, and finishing the plowing in the
middle of the field, there will be a dead furrow from
every corner to the middle dead furrow of each land, and
a strip of ground eight or ten feet wide on one side of
every dead furrow will be trodden down firmly by the
teams when turning around. Plowing a field without
dead furrows is simply commencing at the middle and •
turning the furrow slices all inward. If the plowing be done with a right-hanci p.ow
the teams will "gee around," always turning on the unplowed ground. When a
field is plowed in this manner there are no ridges or dead
furrows, and the surface is even, so that the operation of
any machine is never hindered. When sod ground is
plowed in lands there is always a strip of ground beneath
the first two furrow slices at every ridge that is not broken
up. This is to a great extent avoided when the whole field
is plowed as one land, and may be entirely avoided if
back-furrowed. The accompanying diagrams will show how
to plow a square field, or one of irregular boundary, com-
mencing in the middle and finishing at the outsides. Fig.
1 shows a rectangular field. The plowman finds a point equally distant from three
sides, measuring of course at right angles to the sides, and sets
a stake. Then he finds the point equally distant from the three
sides at the other end, and sets another stake. From these two
stakes to the corners of the field he turns two furrow slices
together, and then plows the field, being guided by them, and
occasionally measuring to the outside to see if he is keeping his
furrows of equal width at setting in and running out, and on
each side. In Fig. 2, a four-sided lot, where the angles are not
right angles, precisely the same rule is followed. In the case of
the triangular field, the plowman begins by plowing about a single point, which,
though awkward at first, may be executed with ease after a
few trials. In the case of the irregular five-sided lot, rep-
resented by Fig. 4, it is a little more diffic.ult to start
exactly right, but the ruling gives a clear idea of how the
furrows run, and it is always well to pace off frequently to
the outside of the lot — or rather from the fence startino- at
right angles to it — to be sure that the portion remaining un-
rig. 4. plowed on each side, and at each end of each side, remains
always of a corresponding width as the plowing progresses.
Fig. 2.
Pig. 3.
CHAPTER IV.
PRINOIPLBS AND PRACTICE.
STUDY TOUB FASM. 11. ANALYSIS OP THE SOIL UNNECESSARY. III. SOIL DOES NOT WEAR
OUT. IV. OEGANIO AND INORGANIC MATTER. ^V. ECONOMY OF FERTILIZERS. VI. PRACTICAL
TEST OF FERTILITY. VII. ROTATION AND CROPS. VIII. A SIMPLE ROTATION. IX. EFFECT OF
BAD SEASONS ^X. ELABORATE ROTATION. XI. GRASS-SEED AND MEADOWS. XII. AN EAST-
ERN MAN ON ROTATION. XIII. A SOUTHERN PLANTER'S TESTIMONY. XIV. ROTATION IN
EUROPE. XV. SUBSTITUTION IN ROTATION. XVI. POTASH AND PHOSPHATE CROPS. XVII.
SOFT AND HARD GROUND CROPS. XVIII. SCIENCE IN AGRICULTURE. XIX. IGNORANCE VS.
mTELLIGENCE. ^XX. SOILS AND THEIR CAPABILITIES. XXI. PERCENTAGE OF SAND IN SOILS.
XXII. ABSORBING POWER OF SOILS. XXIII. ABSORPTION OF OXYGEN BY THE SOIL.
I. Study Tour Farm,
^HE best farmers are those who study the capabilities of their farms, with a view
to the selection of the most remunerative crops. The first question to be
decided in settling in new regions distant from markets, is. What crops will bear
the farthest carriage without consuming their value? These are wheat, flax, and
grass-seeds. And these crops, on new lands, are raised with the least outlay of labor.
This sort of cultivation is, of course, ruinous to the land, and, if long persisted in, will
certainly end in so reducing the fertility of the soil, that even other crops cannot be
profitably raised. The soil must not only possess all the elementary substances
necessarjr to the production of a crop, but it must, to yield the greatest return, have
all these elements in excess of the requirements. And if only one of these elements
is lacking or deficient, the crop is subject to such changes as not only to cease to be
profitable, but often to become impossible to be grown.
II. Analysis of the Soil Unnecessary.
It used to be said by visionaries, years ago, that an analysis of the soil would give
true indications of what it was capable of, so that if the lacking constituents were
supplied, success was certain. The difficulty in all this is, that while the analysis of
a soil will show correctly the constituents of that particular cube, it never shows the
capabilities of a field. Even if it did show the constituents of a field, these con-
stituents might be so locked up as to be valueless, or if not absolutely locked up
(that is, insoluble, or not in a state in which they can be assimilated by the plant),
the mechanical nature of the soil might be such as to render them inoperative. The
fertility of a soil may be locked up in its gravel, sand or clay. The soil might not
be able to give up its constituents from saturation of the soil by water, or its
adhesion may be too great. Other reasons might be given to prove that analysis of
the soil is often of little value as showing its fertility. Those mentioned are
[75]
76 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
sufficient, aside from the constant fact, that the analysis of a six-inch cube of soil
can never, even approximately, show the agricultural value of a field.
III. Soil Does Not Wear Out.
Soils do not wear out, as is generally supposed, from cropping. Soils vary
in their capabilities of converting plant food as they do in their inherent qualities.
A blowing sand lacks not only the inorganic elements of fertility, but is also
incapable of arresting and holding the organic elements. And yet, sand is one of
the most important constituents of the soil. The strongest arable clays contain from
fifty to sixty per cent of sand, fertile loams sixty to seventy-five per cent of sand,
and fertile sandy soils from seventy-five to eighty-five per cent of sand. As a rule, the
more clay a soil contains, the greater its capability of taking and holding organic
matter, and also the greater its composition of inorganic or mineral matter.
IV. Organic and Inorganic Matter.
The inorganic matter of soils is that produced by the breaking-down of the
rocks of which all soils are originally composed. As a rule, the surface soil contains
more organic, and the subsoil more of inorganic matter, though this rule is often
reversed. The organic matter of soils is that formed by the decay of vegetable
matter from generation to generation in the soil. Both are necessary to a fertile
soil, for if either is lacking, plants will not produce seed.
The organic matter produces woody fiber, starch, sugar, gum, gluten, albumen,
etc. They may all be resolved into four elements: carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and
nitrogen, and are essential as assisting in the formation of inorganic compounds.
The inorganic elements of soils are much more numerous, and it is important for
the farmer to know those which are considered essential to the composition of all
plants. They are given in tabular form as follows:
NAME. FORMING. IN COMBINATION WITH.
Chlorine, Chlorides, Metals.
Sulphur, Sulphurets, "
" Sulphuric Acid, Oxygen.
" Sulphureted Hydrogen, Hydrogen.
Phosphorus. Phosphoric Acid, Oxygen.
Potassium, Potash, "
" - . ' Chloride of Potassium, Chlorine.
Sodium • Soda, ' Oxygen.
" , '. . , Common Salt . Chlorine.
Calcium Chloride of Lime, "
" Lime, Oxygen.
Magnesium, Magnesia, "
Aluminum, Alumina, "
Silicon Silica, "
Iron, Oxide of Iron, "
" Sulphuret of Iron, Sulphur.
Manganese, Oxide of Manganese, Oxygen.
• ' Sulphuret of Manganese, Sulphur.
PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE.
77
Iodine is also another element which in combination with metals produces iodides
of the metals; but this element is not considered essential.. The most important of the
above-named are sulphur, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, aluminum (the base of
clay), silicon (the base of sand) and iron. Neither the organic nor the inorganic
elements exist in plants in their simple state, but in combination with otjier substances,
and to be taken up, must be in some form soluble in water.
A soil to be fertile, we have said, must contain an excess of organic and inorganic
matter, in a state capable of being taken up by a plant and converted into sap. To
be capable of producing all the crops cultivated on the farm, the soil must consist of
three earths — sand, clay and lime — intimately mixed; four gases, forming organic
matter; and eleven or twelve inorganic elements, chemically combined.
V. Economy of Fertilizers.
The results of fertility cannot be better illustrated than by the specimens of ripe
wheat shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. They are from the results of careful experiments in
France. Fig. 1 shows wheat grown on good soil, without
fertilizers; Fig. 2 (next page), wheat grown in the same
soil, contiguous, the same year, and under the same con-
ditions, except that the patch of No. 2 was enriched to
the maximum with special fertilizers. The squares show
the height and bulk of each. The product is given in the
French terms, hectare — 2.471 acres (two and a half acres
nearly) — and in kilogram — 2.2046 pounds (two and a
quarter pounds nearly). The products were: No. 1,
2,640 kilograms of straw, and 903.11 kilograms of grain;
No." 2, 6,931 kilograms of straw, and 3,790.46 kilograms
of grain. Reduced to our measure, the fertilized portion
produced 3,307 pounds of grain, or fifty-five (55) bushels
and six (6) pounds per acre, and the unfertilized portion
only thirteen bushels and six pounds per acre — a dif-
ference of nearly forty-two bushels per acre in favor of
fertilization. Analogous cases might be multiplied indefi-
nitely. It would seem to be unnecessary.
VI. Practical Test of Fertility.
test is that the soil shall uniformly
Fig. 1.
WHEAT, WITHOUT FEETILIZEE.
The practical
produce plants from the seed sown that will make healthy and vigorous growth in
average seasons, and ripen perfectly. If the soil will not do this, something is
wrong with it.' It either lacks the proper organic or inorganic elements, oiv their
mechanical mixture is at fault. The farmer must find out what the trouble is. A
well-drained sandy loam, or clayey loam, will produce all the crops generally raised on
the farm, if the rotation is such that one kind of crop follows another kind at the
78
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
proper intervals. And as no two species contain tlie same quantity or quality of
organic or inorganic matter, it follows that the more widely plants differ in character,
the better are they suited for rotation. Hence,
turnips and wheat being widely different, and
both naturally adapted to the climate of Great
Britain, turnips are the great fallow, or cleaning,
crop of that country. In the West, Indian corn
is the great cleaning crop, and clover may be
called our principal renovating crop.
VII. Botation and Crops.
In Europe especially, and in the older por-
tions of the United States in a more limited
degree, an elaborate rotation, with liberal appli-
cation of manures, is found necessary to bring
back the soil to a state of full fertility and keep
it so. In the West, and in some portions of the
South, a more simple rotation, with or without
manure, is practiced. In newlj' settled districts
little attention is paid to rotation, and less to
manuring, except by the more sagacious settlers.
The farmers raise wheat and flax until the soil
begins to show signs of exhaustion, and then
alternate with corn, or else seed down the land for
mowing and pasture, making corn the principal
grain-crop, and thus naturally gliding into stock
husbandry, in the place of grain husbandry. The
better-informed acquire stock as quickly as pos-
sible, and before their soil refuses to raise wheat
and flax. Those who do this early, make the
most money ; for thus all but a small portion of
that taken from the soil may be returned to it.
The soil simply loses the phosphates of the bones
and the nitrogen of the flesh of the animals sold.
VIII. A Simple Rotation.
The rotation in mixed farming is of the sim-
plest kind. One-quarter of the, farm in small
grain, three-eighths in corn, and three-eighths in
F's- 2. pasture and meadow is a natural rotation. It
WHEAT, WITH FERTILIZER j^ ^^.^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^ onc-quartcr of the pasture
must be broken every year. It yvould be inconvenient, but let us see how this may
PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE.
79
be accomplished by dividing the farm into six fields. Take one hundred and sixty
acres : A section of each field is shown below ; the figures at the top show the fields :
1
2
3
4
5
6
First Year,
Corn, . .
Wheat, . .
Corn, . .
Wheat, . .
Grass, , .
Grass.
Second Year, . . . .
Wheat, . .
Corn, . .
Wheal, . .
Corn, . .
Grass, . .
Grass.
Third Year, . . . .
Grass, . .
Wheat, . .
Coni, . .
Wheat, . .
Corn, . .
Grass.
Fourth Year, . . . .
Grass, . .
Corn, . .
Wheat, . .
Corn, . .
Wheat,
Grass.
Fifth Year,
Grass, . .
Grass, . .
Corn, . .
Wheat, . .
Corn, . .
Wheat.
This rotation will give a cleaning crop of corn the year before every seeding
of wheat or grass, and every third year one field of grass is to be plowed. This may
be called a three-course crop, and it will be seen that it will require a long time
to bring the fields into their original order again. In the third year, field six will be
field one, and the entire rotation will not be complete so the fields occupy their
original place until the twelfth year, a far better plan than the usual hap-haaard plan
generally adopted.
IX. Effect of Bad Seasons.
Whatever the rotation, whether simple or elaborate, an unfavorable season
may frustrate the best-laid plans. Winter wheat is liable to be destroyed by freezing.
Winter and spring wheat are both subject to the depredations of the fly and other
insects, often ruining the crop. We have known the corn crop destroyed by rain
and flood to such a degree in one of the great corn counties in Illinois (Livingston),
that the feed of the farm teams was not made, and all through June, and into July,
the land could not be entered on for re-planting. We have seen whole meadows
in Northern Illinois (Cook county), destroyed by the white grub (larvae of the May
beetle), which eats the roots of meadow grass below the surface. We have seen, we
repeat, such meadows, when the turf might be rolled up like a carpet. All these,
and other contingencies, will interfere with the regular rotation, and often destroy the
sequence. In such cases, the meadow must often be plowed up and lost entirely as a
meadow, and cannot be recovered in less than two years. The loss of an annual
crop, however, need not seriously interfere. The land may be fallowed, or some
temporary crop put in for that year, or a fallow crop may be sown and plowed
under. Hence the loss is light, and the regular crop of the next season may come in
its turn. In no rotation can more than the general idea be followed.
X Elaborate Rotation.
In the foregoing, we have given the most simple rotation possible, as an example.
Few far mere raise so simple a list of crops. Oats, barley and flax are generally
raised. These all come under the same category as wheat. The cereal grains form
80 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
one year's crop, as a whole, and may be divided up to suit; but flax should not
follow the cereals, nor should one cereal follow another. Sorghum, potatoes, roots,
and all that class of crops, must have a place in the rotation. They should be allotted
to the corn land. They are cleaning crops. Hungarian grass, millet, and other special
forage crops may encroach either upon the small grain crops, or corn. Flax, hemp,
and other fiber crops are exhausting, and must also follow the cleaning or fallow crop.
No Rigid Rule. — The idea in all this, is not to lay down a system of elaborate
rotation to be rigidly followed. This notion has long since been exploded. Every
farmer must figure it out for himself, and select his own system as best adapted to his
particular needs. But to reach the best success, a system must be adopted and adhered
to, so far as possible. It is the want of system that costs money, or, what is the same
thing, time. It is the knowledge as to the crops best adapted to a soil and climate,
or the lack of that knowledge, that marks the successful farmer from the unsuc-
cessful one. It is not the intention of this work to speculate upon what crops pay
best, but to point out that which shall be of value to every reader to know, in the
management of the farm.
XI. Crrass-seed and Meadows.
In the simple rotation already described, there may seem too little meadow and
pasture. It is one adapted to new countries where the corn raised is supplementary
to the grass crop. This brings the feeding resources of the farm, in proportion to
that of grain raised to sell, as three-fourths of the first to one-fourth of the latter.
As stock increases, the pasturage may be increased. A seed crop of grass and clover
may be taken the first year, but when this is to be done, the grass — timothy,
blue-grass, red-top, orchard-grass, fowl-meadow, etc., must be sown separate.
Clover, whatever the variety, must be sown separate, until stock can be obtained.
Then seed crops may be made profitable, since the seed will bear transportation long
distances, and still yield a profit. The seed crop taken, the aftermath may be plowed
under, and the straw converted into rough fodder and manure. It will always pay to
seed grass with any cereal crop, with a view to turning it under out of its rotation,
and independently of the meadow and pasture in their regular rotation. The notion
is, not only to prevent exhaustion and keep the soil rich, but to make it richer. This
is the true secret in all cultivation.
Xn. An Eastern Man on Rotation.
A SIMPLE and excellent rotation is given in one of the United States Agricul-
tural Reports, as adopted by a gentleman in Vermont. This was on a one-hundred-
acre farm, of which twenty acres were woodland. The farm had eight lots, of ten
acres each. Labor was high, and since hay paid well, as much grass was raised as
possible. In going through these eight fields in eight years, one ten-acre field would
be in corn or roots ; the second year in wheat, barley, oats, or some other grain-crop
seeded to grass; the next two years mowed for hay, and the next four years in
PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE. 81
pasture, and about equally divided for the keeping of stock summer and winter, the
owner to feed all the crops on his farm. By this system of rotation and feeding all
the produce on the farm, it was estimated he could keep two-thirds more stock than
the majority of farmers, and. the land would be all under cultivation. He estimated
ten acres in hoed crops, ten acres in grain, and the roots at three hundred bushels
of potatoes, or one thousand bushels of rutabagas or beets per acre, besides four
or five hundred bushels of grain annually.
XIII. A Southern Planter's Testimony.
■ Some years ago, a wide-awake Southern planter gave his plan of rotation,
adapted to the cotton region, the farm containing five hundred acres of open land
under fence, two hundred and fifty acres being devoted to arable purposes, and the
rest to grazing. The writer held that the rotation might be as follows: 1, Cotton
and corn in the same field in suitable proportions. 2, Oats sown in August on the
cotton and corn land. 3, Eye, or rye and wheat, sown in September, the land having
been twice plowed in order to kill the germinant oats. 4 and 5, Clover, if the land is
in sufficient heart to produce it ; if not, the fourth year rest ungrazed, and the
fifth year sheep and cattle penned upon it every night during the year, using a
portable fence. An ordinary farm of five hundred acres, it was held, would support
five huijdred sheep, besides the crops in the above rotation. The oats and rye should
feed them during the winter nearly or entirely, without injury to the grain. Five
hands would be sufficient to work such a farm and take care of the live stock.
During the first year, the following results might be expected 'from an ordinary
farm, without manure:
25 acres in cotton, 12 bales, at 15 cents, $ 900
25 acres in corn, 250 bushels, at $1, 250
50 acres in oats, 500 bushels, at 80 cents, 400
2o acres in rye, 200 bushels, at $1, 200
25 acres in wheat, 150 bushels, at $1.50, 225
Increase and mutton sales of 500 sheep, 600
Wool, 3 pounds per head, at 33 cents per pound, 495
Manure, at $1 per head, 500
$3,470
The Second Year. — This gives an average of six hundred dollars per hand for
the first year, fully three times the average per hand in the Cotton States then.
The next year the writer holds that the cotton and corn would be more than double
by penning five hundred sheep at night on fifty acres, and says that ten sheep reg-
ularly penned will manure well one acre in a year. Five hundred would, therefore,
manure well fifty acres. He acknowledges that the appearance of the ground
would not indicate this higb manuring ; but says it should be remembered that the
liquid manure, which is equal in value to the solid, is not visible. If, in addition, a
stock of cattle were kept and penned on the same fifty acres, then fertility would be
increased in proportion.
6
82 ~
THE HOME AND FAEM MANTTAL.
The experience of the last few years of those in the South who have applied
themselves to diversified crops, where stock forms a prominent feature, shows that
this is not overdrawn, and that the enrichment of worn farms by natural means
is no more difficult there than in other sections of the country.
XIV. Rotation in Europe.
In Great Britain, and on the continent, the most elaborate systems of rotation
and manuring are followed. Careful cultivation and liquid manure have made
Flanders the agricultural model of many writers. In France the system of culture
for field crops is equally elaborate and careful. The table below will give a rota-
tion proposed in the early part of the century by order of the French government,
arid will be interesting as showing the diversity of crops then cultivated. It is given
simply as showing how a diversity of crops may be cultivated in localities that
furnish a suitable market, as, for instance, the neighborhood of cities. Vetches are
the only crop in the Ust not used in American agriculture. They may be substituted
by any fallow crop, to be cut green. This rotation is as follows:
riKST YEAK.
ACEES.
30 Wheat
15 Clover
5 Turnips . I
5 Cabbages . '
2KFiel(l Beet. ;
2>iCarrots . .
10 Oats .
5 Barley
10 Potatoes
3 Vetches
2 Beans
■;!
Secokd Yeak.
Acres.
5 Turnips . j
6 Cabbages
2iFieldBeet
24Carrots . I
10 Potatoes . :
3 Vetches .
2 Beans . . .
16 Wheat .
10 Oats . .
6 Barley
15 Clover .
16 Wheat .
Third Year.
Acres.
10 Oats
5 Barley .
15 Wheat
; 10 Potatoes . "1
3 Vetches .
' 2 Beans . .
15 Clover.
15 Wheat .
f 6 Turnips .
J 5 Cabbages
1 2iPieldBeet
t 24Caiaots .
FoDRTH Year.
Acres.
15 Clover
( 5 Turnips . I
J 5 Cabbages j
) 24rieldBeet
1. 24Carrots . j
30 Wheat .
( 10 Potatoes . )
i 3 Vetches . >
( 2 Beans . . )
ts . . J
i-ley . . )
10 Oats
5 Barley
Fifth Year.
Acres.
15 Wheat . .
10 Oats . 1
5 Barley . ;
6 Turnips . j
5 Cabbages i
2iFieldBeet
ajCarrots. . .
10 Potatoes
S Vetches
I. 2 Beans .
15 Clover
:1
Sixth Year.
Acres.
10 Potatoes .
3 Vetches .
' 2 Beans . .
15 Clover.
10 Oats
5 Barley
15 Wheat
.':!
C 5 Turnips . j
J 5 Cabbages (
1 2iFieldBeet i
I 2iCarrots .
15 Wheat
Seventh Year.
Acres.
30 Wheat.
15 Clover.
5 Turnips.
5 Cabbages.
2KrieldBeet.
2^0arrots.
10 Oats.
5 Barley.
; 10 Potatoes.
3 Vetches.
' 2 Beans.
XV. Substitution in Rotation.
However simple a rotation may be, or however elaborate, the crops must be
selected with judgment, that is, with a view to the money they will bring. This is
what marks the successful from the unsuccessful farmer. Nor need the rotation be a
cast-iron one. A rotation, to be perfect, must be flexible — capable of having one
crop substituted for another. But the general character must be stuck to ; and the
main idea, enrichment of the soil and paying crops, must always be kept in mind.
The more stock that can be fed, the easier will this quality of enrichment be retained.
Hence the value of grass and clover in the rotation.
PRINCIPLES AND PKACTICE. 83
Ten Ideals. — Ten ideals in agriculture may be stated, as follows :
1. — Grass, hay and corn make fat cattle.
2. — Cattle furnish manux-e.
3. — Manure ripens heavy crops of grain.
4. — A judicious rotation gives the greatest average yield.
5. — Cleaning crops prevent the growth of weeds.
6. — Weedy crops never gave large yields.
7. — Barren fields leave empty granaries.
8. — Good tillage is manuring with brains.
9. — Follow potash crops with phosphorous crops.
10. — And let the master's eye be vigilant over all that concerns the farm.
XVI. Potash and Phosphate Crops.
The crops that do well in a soil containing potash are corn, the grasses, clover
and potatoes. Eye, barley, oats, and nearly all the garden vegetables, also, are fairly
natural to such a soil. Wheat, sorghum, sugar-cane, the beet, where cultivated for
sugar, and in fact all sugar crops, require a soil rich in phosphates. Barley, oats and
flax like a soil rich in both phosphate and potash, and the same is true of the grasses
and clover. Potatoes require phosphate for their tops and seed, and potash for their
tubers. Sweet potatoes require plenty of phosphate. Soils rich in potash are
generally rich, also, in humus or vegetable matter, and, if they also abound in phos-
phate, will produce large crops of all the cereals, including winter wheat. But such
soils are usually liable to heave; drainage will in a great measure obviate this.
XVII. Soft and Hard Ground Crops.
There are crops that require hard or firm soils, and others that must have soft
soils, to give the best results. Among the crops natural to soft, or humus soils, are
corn, Irish potatoes, flax, hemp, most textile crops, and most garden crops. The
crops natural to non-humus soils, or firm soils, are wheat especially, the cereal grains
generally, grass, clover, sweet potatoes, sorghum and all saccharine crops, including
sugar-cane, melons and squashes, and among garden plants, flat turnips and onions.
Hence the necessity of compacting soils rich in potash, and also those rich in the
phosphates, on which such crops are grown. The nearest approach to bringing such
soils into proper condition for these crops, is to cultivate upon a newly turned sward
or upon a second year's plowing of sward. All such soils are assisted by tramping,
rolling, etc., before sowing, only requiring a shallow harrowing on top. Sometimes
it is difficult to get grass-seed to take on these light, fluffy soils ; but once growing, it
soon becomes firm and luxuriant. The prairie soils of the West, as a rule, are rich
in potash, and fairly so in the phosphates. The difficulty with wheat on such soils is
heaving out, rust and lodging. They are bettei adapted to spring wheat than to
winter wheat. Timber soils and all loess (sandy-alluvial) soils are adapted to winter
wheat. As we go West, after crossing the Mississippi, the soil becomes better and
better adapted to the cultivation of this crop.
84 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
XVIII. Science in Agriculture.
The practical farmer has little or nothing to do with abstruse science. And yet,
science has done much for agriculture within the last fifty years. Chemistry espe-
cially has lent its aid in all directions, even in mechanical appliances. It has been
called the corner-stone of agriculture, and in fact it is, since the growth of all crops
is due largely to chemical action. The natural sciences are largely connected with
agriculture. Botany teaches the structure and physiology of plants. Entomology
treats of insects beneficial and injurious to crops. Zoology describes animals valu-
able or destructive. Mechanical science has perfected implements of tillage and use.
Veterinary science has rendered it possible for any intelligent farmer to treat the
ordinary diseases of domestic animals without the aid of the professional veteri-
narian. Such works as the Cyclopedia of Live Stock and Complete Stock
Doctor give minute directions concerning all the animals of the farm, and most
diseases incident to farm stock, and this one is so fully illustrated that everything is
presented in the clearest manner.
Manures requisite for any crop may now be bought or made on the farm.
The soils adapted to particular crops may now be easily and accurately studied.
Agricultural invention has fairly kept pace with other inventive progress within the
last ten years, and they who read and reflect have profited thereby. Agriculture can
no more stand still than can any other art. The conditions requisite to success
are constantly changing, and must ever change. The middle-aged man who would
be content with the agriculture of his father, must go back to the heavy eyeletted
hoe, the scythe and reaping-hook, the old team-killing plow, the one-horse plow for
cultivaitng, the flail or tramping-floor for threshing, and a spade-edge over a half-
bushel for shelling corn.
XIX. Ignorance v^. Intelligence.
They who do not believe in books, and in improved agriculture, — and there are
not a few such, — are toiling from twelve to fifteen hours a day to scratch a hard-
earned pittance from an unwilling soil, while their better-informed neighbors are
working less hours, reading more, using improved seed, implements and processes,
and gaining a competence. Not by studying books a quarter of a century or a
hundred years old, not works of theory and dry detail, but paragraphs and condensed
and illustrated reading, that give ideas to be elaborated and made to fit, by each
individual, his own particular wants. In other words, the application of agricultural
truths, new and old, to the every-day labors of the farm.
XX. Soils and their Capabilities.
Among other things, every farmer ought to understand soils, their characteristics
and capabilities. We are, for instance, in the habit of using the terms, " light " and
" heavy" soils, just as we are in the habit of saying the air is " heavy," the air is
" light," etc. When we say the air is " light," it is probably heavy, but it is bracing.
PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICB. 85
When we say it is heavy, it really is light. That is, the pressure on the barometer is
not heavy. We say a soil is " light" because it is sandy and easily worked; heavy,
when it is clayey; "hard," when it is dry, and "sticky" when it is wet. Better
terms would be, "open" and "close." Only humus soils are really light. Sandy
soils are the heaviest in gravity, and clay soils are lighter in weight than any others
except those wholly or largely composed of vegetable matter. The following table
from Schubler will be valuable. The first column shows the kind of soil, the second
the weight per cubic foot, and the third the weight of one foot in depth per acre:
KIND OF SOIL. AVEIGHT PER CUBIC FOOT. WEIGHT ONE FOOT DEEP PBK ACKE.
Dry silicious or calcareous sand, . . . about 110 pounds, 6,792,000 pounds.
*Half sand, half clay, " 96 " 4,182,000
tCommon arable soil, " 80 to 90 " 3,485,000 to 3,920,000
Stiff clay, " 75 " . . • 3,267,000
tGarden mold, rich in vegetable matter, . " 70 " 3,049,000
Peat earth, " 30 to 50 " 1,307,000 to 2,178,000
XXI. Per Cent of Sand in Soils.
The composition of soils is important. They are designated as light, heavy,
warm, cold, dry, wet, compact, porous, fine, coarse, hungry, leachy, loamy, sour,
sweet, clayey, sandy, limy, marly. In fact, no two soils are precisely alike, and each
acre of a field may differ essentially from the rest. Common sand, flint sand, alumina,
lime, magnesia, potash, and various salts and metalloid compounds unite in various
combinations to make up these soils. The humus, which gives richness and blackness
of color, is chiefly derived from successive growths and decays of the vegetation
for untold generations. The following statement shows the percentages of sand and
clay, from pure clay (alumina and sand) to humus and peaty soils.
1. — Pure clay or pipe clay is sixty per cent silica and forty per cent alumina.
2. — Strongest clay soil (brick clay), pure clay, with five to ten per cent of
sand that can be separated by washing.
3. — Clay loam, pure clay, with fifteen to thirty per cent of sand.
4. — Loamy clay, pure clay, with thirty to sixty per cent of sand added.
5. — Sandy loam, pure clay, with sixty to ninety per cent of sand.
6. — Sandy soil contains ten per cent or less of clay.
7. — ^Marly soils, from five to twenty per cent of marl, by weight, of the dry soil.
8. — Calcareous soils, twenty per cent or more of lime.
9. — Humus soils, from five to fifteen per cent of vegetable matter.
10. — Peat soils have sixty per cent or more of vegetable or organic matter
11. — Gravelly soil, in which gravel is a distinct constituent.
12. — Eocky soil, in which ledges appear, or which consists largely of boulders
or other rock.
* This soil would correspond to yvhat we call a sandy loam.
t This soil would correspond to What we call a clay loatn.
t This soil would coiTespond to our strong, rich prairie soils.
8(5
THE HOME AND FARM MAITOAL.
XXII. Absorbing Power of Soils.
The power of a soil to absorb water indicates its quality, since a soil that will
absorb water and hold it, is generally fertile. Schubler presents this absorbing power
as follows, for the soils named :
KINDS OF EAETH.
Silicious Sand, .
Arable Soil, . .
Sandy Clay, . .
Loamy Clay,
Brick Clay, . .
Gray Pure Clay,
G-axden Mold, .
Humus, . .
1,000 Gkains of Earth on a Sukface of Fifty
Square Inches Absokbed in
12 Hours.
Grains.
Water.
16
21
25
30
37
38
80
24 Hours.
Grains.
Water.
22 "
26
30
36 "
42 "
45 "
97 "
48 HOURS.
Grains.
Water.
23
28
34
40
48
50
110
72 Hours.
Grain.s.
Water.
23
28
32
41
49
52
120
Thus we see why dry pure sands are hungry soils. They cannot hold moisture,
nor the soluble portions of manure, which are the only fertilizing elements.
XXin. Absorption of Oxygen by the Soil.
Grains.
KIND OF EAETH.
Cubic Inches
Absorbed.
1,000
1,000
1,000
1,000
1,000
1,000
1,000
1,000
Silicious Sand, in a wet state, absorbed oxygen, .
Sandy Clay,
Loamy Clay, '
Brick Clay,
Gray Pure Clay,
Garden Mold,
Arable Soil, *
Humus, t
0.24
1.39
1.65
2.04
2.29
2.60
2.43
3.04
If the oxygen of the air is absorbed, as shown by this table, the carbon, hydro-
gen and nitrogen of the air may also enter into combination if the conditions are
right. The table from Schubler will show the power of one thousand grains of soil
for absorbing oxygen, from fifteen cubic inches of air, containing twenty-one per
cent of oxygen.
Part II.
PRACTICAL AND SYSTEMATIC HUSBANDRY.
CEEEAL CROPS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
GRASSES, FODDER AND ROOT CROPS.
SILK CULTURE— SPECIAL CROPS.
CROPS FOR SUGAR MAKING.
^ VARIETIES ILLUSTRATED AND COMPARED.
PRACTICAL AND SYSTEMATIC HUSBANDRY.
CHAPTEE I.
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
I. THE CEREALS DESCRIBED. II. WHEAT AND CORN BELTS. III. CORN IN THE UNITED STATES.
IV. DIFFERENT KINDS OF WHEAT. V. VARIATIONS ILLUSTRATED. VI. PROPER WHEAT SOILs!
VII. PREPARING THE SOIL. VIII. DKILLIN& GIVES THE BEST RESULTS. IX. DEPTH OF COVER-
ING FOR WHEAT. Xl TIME TO SEED AND HARVEST. — -XI. HARVESTING WHEAT. XII. HOW TO
SHOCK THE GRAIN. XIII. IMPORTANCE OF GOOD SEED XIV. PEDIGREE GRAIN. XV. GENERAL
CONCLUSIONS.: XVI. ARTIFICIAL CROSS FERTILIZATION. XVH. REPUTABLE OLD VARIETIES IN
THE UNITED STATES. XVIH. BYE AND ITS CULTIVATION. — ^XIX. BARLEY AND ITS CULTIVA-
TION. XX. TIME FOR SOWING BARLEY. XXI. HARVESTING AND THRESHING BARLEY. XXII.
NEW VARIETIES OF BARLEY. XXIII. OATS AND THEIR CULTIVATIO V. XXIV. EXPORT OF -FOOD
CROPS. XXV. SPECIES OP OATS— THEIR LATITUDE. XXVI. SOIL AND CULTIVATION OF OATS
XXVII. HARVESTING AND THRESHING OATS. XXVIII. VAEIETIBS OF OATS TO BE CULTIVATED.
XXIX. BUCKWHEAT. XXX. SEEDING AND HARVESTING BUCKWHEAT.
*
I. The Cereals Described.
|HE cereals are the edible seeds of the grasses, or those cultivated for food. In
the American usage, the cereals include wheat, rye, Indian corn, rice, barley and
oats. In its broader sense, the word also includes sorghum, doura corn, some
varieties of millet which are used as food by oriental nations and tribes, besides
the seeds of the bene-plant (sesamitm) , a grain from which oil is expressed. The
seeds of the bene-plaut are eaten by some tribes, and were once used to a limited
extent for food by the negroes in the South. In this work we shall not have occasion
to notice any of the cereals except wheat, Indian corn, rye, barley, oats, buckwheat,
rice and millet. Of these, wheat, rice and Indian corn are the most important food-
plants of the world. In the United States, Indian corn is the most important
food-crop, if we take into consideration its use for stock; wheat coming second. Of
the food-crops of the world, as a whole, wheat stands first, rice second, Indian corn
third, rye fourth; buckwheat, oats and barley coming last among civilized nations.
Oats are coming more into use year by year as a staple article of food, in the shape
of grits and meal, and are among the most nutritious of the cereals. Barley is
becoming more important every year, being the chief ingredient in the manufacture
of beer. All the cereals produce alcohol, by fermentation and distillation, but Indian
corn is the great staple, and rye the next, for this purpose. For the manufacture of
grape-sugar, or glucose (a saccharine product about forty per cent of the strength of
189]
90
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
cane sugar), Indian corn has within the last few years assumed great importance, and
now employs immense capital in its production.
II. Wheat and Corn Belts.
With reference to wheat and Indian corn, the United States may be divided into
three great belts, — the Atlantic, the Central, and the trans-Mississippi. The Atlantic
belt produces about nineteen per cent of the wheat and corn; the Central belt, forty
per cent, and the trans-Mississippi about forty-one per cent. In 1850 the percentage
stood: Atlantic belt about fifty-one per cent., the Central belt forty-three, and the
trans-Mississippi, six per cent of the whole crop — a wonderful exhibit of Western
growth, which also forcibly shows how exhausted fertility of the soil and natural causes
operate to change relative importance and values of crops cultivated.
III. Corn in the United States.
An idea of the great importance and value of the corn crop of the United States
is given by the immense crop, averaging since 1878 about 1,500,000,000 bushels a
year, and this notwithstanding the crop failure of 1882. The following table,
prepared by the Department of Agriculture, gives in a compact form all the facts
about the corn crop of the United States for a period of sixteen years, during which
time the production increased more than threefold. Since 1878 the quantity raised
and the percentage exported have steadily increased.
TEAES.
ACREAGE.
TIELD
Per
Acre.
TOTAL
Product.
Price
Per
Bushel.
TOTAL Value
OP Product.
Total
Value
Per
Acre.
Com and
Corn-Meal
exported in
the fiscal
year closing
June 30,
following.
m
1863
1864
1865
1866
1867
1868 : . . . .
1869
1870
1871 ....
1872
1873
1874
1875
1876
1877
1878
15,312,441
17,438,752
18,990,180
33,306,538
32,520,249
34,887,246
37,103,245
38,646,977
34,091,137
35,526,836
39,197,148
41,036,918
44,841,371
49,033,364
50,369,113
51,585,000
Bush.
25.98
30.42
37.09
25.30
23.63
25.9
23.5
28.3 '
29.1
30.7
23.8
20.7
29.4
26.1
26.6
26.9
Bushels.
397.839,212
530,451,403
704,427 853
867,946,295
768,320,000
906,527,000
874,320,000
1,094,255,000
991,898,000
1,092,719,000
932,274,000
850,148,-500
1,321,069,000
1,283,827,000
1,342,518,000
1,388,218,750
$0.69.9
99.5
46.0
68.2
79.5
62.8
75.3
54.9
48.2
39.8
48.0
64.7
42.0
37.0
35.8
31.8
$278,089,609
527,718,183
324,168,698
591,666,295
610,948,390
569,512,460
658,532,700
601,839,030
478,275,900
435,149,290
447,183,020
550,043,080
555,445,930
475,491,210
480,643,400
441,153,405
$18 16
30 26
17 07
17 21
18 49
16 32
17 74
15 57
14 02
12 24
11 41
13 40
12 S8
9 69
9 54
8 55
Bushels.
5,146,192
3,610,402
14,465,751
16,026,947
12,493,522
8,286,665
2,140,487
10,676,873
35,727,010
40,154,274
35,985,834
30,025,036
50,910,532
72,652,611
87,172,110
P.ct.
1.29
.68
2.05
1,85
1.62
.91
.24
.98
3.60
3.68
3.86
3.53
3.85
5.66
6.59
Average of whole
period, . . .
35,930,407
26.7
959,174,938
52.3
501,616,287
13 96
Average 1863-'70.
28,650,703
26.8
768,010,845
'67.7
520,309,421
18 16
Average 1871-'78.
43,210,111
26.6
1,150,341,531
42.0
482,923,154
11 18
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
91
Specially noticeable is the rapid increase in the corn product west of the
Mississippi Eiver and in the Southern States. West of the great river, the settlement
of new lands is rapid, and in the South the notion is constantly gaining ground, that
it is cheaper, to raise corn than to buy it. The distribution of the corn crop is shown
by the following table, except that the acreage has greatly increased in the South and
in the country west of the Mississippi since 1878:
Corn Crop 1878.
CORN Crop ]S78.
STATES.
„
Bushels.
Acres.
Value.
Bushels.
Acres.
Value.
Maine, . . . .
2,180,000
• 54,500
$ 1,417,000
Tennessee, . .
37,422,700
1,939,000
$15,343,307
NewHampshire,
2,207,400
56,600
1,346,514
West Virginia, .
10,118,400
372,000
4,249,728
Vermont, . . .
2,275,500
55,500
1,819,790
Kentucky, . .
45,922,100
2,023,000
18,368,840
Massachusetts, .
1,260,000
35,000
781,200
Ohio, . . . .
108,643,700
3,113,000
35,852,421
Ehode Island, .
268,800
8,400
142,464
Michigan, . .
31,247,700
835,500
11,874,126
Connecticut, . .
2,220,000
75,000
1,376,400
Indiana, . . .
138,252,000
4,215,000
37,328,040
New York, . .
25,020,000
695,000
12,510,000
Illinois, . . .
225,932,700
8,337,000
56,483,175
New Jersey, . .
9,792,000
272,000
4,406,400
Wisconsin, . .
36,900,000
984,000
10,701,000
Pennsylvania, .
44 065,000
1,259,000
21,151,200
Minnesota, . .
17,106,900
449,000
4,961,001
Delaware,
4,500,000
180,000
1,755.000
Iowa, . . . .
175,256,400
4,686,000
28,041,024
Maryland, . .
11,209,500
477,000
5,044,275
Missouri, . .
93,062,400
3,552,000
24,196,224
Virginia, . . .
18,200,400
1,040,000
7,826,000
Kansas, . .
81,563,000
2,406,000
15,497,046
North Carolina,.
22,603,200
1,662,000
10,171,440
Nebraska, . .
54,222,000
1,291,000
8,675,520
South Carolina, .
12,276,000
1,320,000
6,629,040
California, .
3,467,250
100,500
2,080.3.50
Georgia, . . .
24,398,000
2,218,000
14,882,780
Oregon, . .
166,500
5,000
153,180
Florida, . . .
2,124,000
236,000
1,550,520
Nevada, Color-
■)
Alabama, . . .
23,928,000
1,994,000
14,117,520
ado and the
[ 2,670,000
89,000
1,602,000
Mississippi, . .
Louisiana, . .
19,474,000
16,875,200
1,498,000
848,000
12,463,360
10,125,120
Territories,
Texas, . . . .
58,396,000
2,246,000
25,694,240
Total, . .
1,388,218,750
51,585,000
$441,153,405
Arkansas, . . .
22,992,000
958,000
11,036,160
IV. Different Kinds of Wheat.
The many varieties of wheat cultivated may be divided into two principal classes :
hard wheats and soft wheats. The hard wheats are natives of warm or semi-tropical
climates, and the soft wheats of cold climates. These are true wheats — that is, the
seeds are not attached to the chaff. An inferior variety, but very hardy, is spelt wheat,
also a hard wheat, but with the seed adhering to the chaff like barley. Another
division is into bearded and smooth wheat, and still another, into red and white wheat.
Polish wheat resembles rye; it is a hard wheat. St. Peter's corn, or one-grained
wheat, is a variety in which the seeds adhere to the chaff, a whitish-seeded, flinty
wheat, which makes a sweetish bread, and is sparingly raised in some portions of
Southern Europe. Another variety, Emmer or Amel corn, is raised in the Alpine
valleys; it is a vigorous, hardy and productive variety, used for bread, for cattle,
and for making starch. The seeds are broadly furrowed, pointed at both ends, the
upper end woolly, and the color grayish red, and very glassy.
Favorite Varieties. — The varieties of wheat are so numerous, and so many
new ones are coming to the front every year, that a list of them would be of little
value. The practical farmer must experiment in a small way for himself before
92 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
adopting any new variety. Of spring wheats, club varieties have long been noted for
early ripening on high, dry lands. Fife wheat does well on moister rich soils. Both
these varieties are beardless. Of winter varieties, the May or amber wheats have the
best general reputation. The only true way is to experiment each for one's-self, or
accept the experience of those whose location and soil are similar.
V. Variations Illustrated.
To show variation in wheat, we give a series of four cuts, two of bearded and two
of smooth or beardless wheat. Fig. 1 represents strongly bearded wheat (Mediter-
ranean hybrid); Fig. 2, lightly bearded wheat (black bearded centennial; Fig. 3, a
bald white wheat (Clauson), and Fig. 4, a red bald wheat, red blue stem.
These are given, not with a view of showing varieties! but to illustrate some
principal variations. [See next page.]
VI. Proper Wheat Soils,
The beist soils for winter wheat are those that are compact, and not liable to
shrink and swell (heave) in freezing and thawing weather — soils rich in phosphates,
lime and potash. The same soils suit spring wheat, except that spring wheat may be
raised on soils that do heave somewhat. Very soft (fluffy) soils containing large
amounts of humus are not at all adapted to wheat, since all such soils are liable to
rust, mildew and smut, especially in moist seasons. If a soil is wet, it may be
improved by under-draining. If it is a rich humus, as much of the prairie land
east of the Mississippi is, it is worth more for other crops than for wheat. Well-
drained sandy loams are the best wheat soils, since these lands are compact, and
generally rich. The best wheat soils of the West and South lie in the undulating
regions, and on the plains of Minnesota, Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, and in the
valleys of the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific slope.
VII. Preparing the Soil.
In new soils, wheat may be sown among corn, in the latter part of August
or in September. Or the corn may be cut and shocked, the land plowed, and the
seed drilled in, in September in the North, and later in the South. On soils more
worn, wheat may follow in the rotation, either on a clover by being turned five
or six inches deep, or it may follow the seed crop of corn. Where sown on fallow
land, the soil may be plowed three times, once as early in the spring as possible, and
deep. Upon this at the proper time sow some crop to be plowed under. The last
plowing should be shallow, only sufficient for the tilth, and not deep enough to
disturb the crop turned under. After turning the fallow crop under, roll the
ground to compact it thoroughly^ The more solid the under-soil, and the better the
surface tilth, the greater the probability of a crop. If, from any cause, the wheat is
destroyed, spring wheat may be drilled in or sown broadcast, unless it be frozen
after the wheat has begun to "shoot" in the spring. If so, there may yet be time
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
y;
Fig. 1. JIEDITEKUANEAN HYBEID.
Fig. 2.
BLACK BEARDED.
Fig. 4.
Fig. 3. BED BLUE
CLAUSON WHEAT STEM.
94
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
to plant to com or to sow to some of the annual grasses — Hungarian or millet —
for forage.
VIII. Drilling Gives the Best Results.
The quantity of seed must be determined by the nature of the soil and its
conditions. As a rule, poor land requires the most seed, since the plant does not
tiller so readily. Two bushels is heavy seeding broadcast; one and a half bushels
per acre is the usual quantity. If the seed is drilled, one-quarter less may be used.
Almost every one who has carefully noticed results, will admit that drilling the seed
in gives the best crops. There is no use in going into an argument to prove this.
Careful scientific experiment, as well as the experience of practical farmers in
every part of the country, shows that drilling effects a saving o'f from, ten to thirty
per cent in seed, and gives an increase -of five to twenty per cent in the crop
gathered.
IX. Depth of Covering for Wheat.
Herb we give an object-lesson illustrating
germination when planted too deep. The cut
shows that when planted three inches deep the
plumule throws out roots at a depth of two
inches below the surface. In making that
extra growth of one inch, the constitu-
tional vigor of the plant is impaired, and
this loss of vigor is in proportion to the
J> increased depth below two inches from the
surface, until planted at six inches in depth,
the vitality of the seed is exhausted in
reaching the surface.
The same progression will apply to all
seeds. Of barley sown twelve inches deep
not a grain germinated. As a rule, the
smaller the seed the less should be its depth
of covering. For any one who has not
experience with any particular seed, four
times the diameter of the seed is a good
depth to insure prompt germination in soil
of average texture, always, supposing that
the earth is in full contact with the seed,
and that moisture is present. The cereal
grains do not require a high temperature for
germination; between forty-two and fifty
degrees is about right.
The Proper Depth. — ^From one to two inches is the proper depth for wheat —
deepest in loose soils. The earth should be firmly pressed about the seed. The
WHEAT PLANTED AT DIITERENT DEPTHS.
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
95
observation of intelligent farmers shows this, and the experiments of Petri prove it.
Here are the results of his experiments, one inch being the best depth for germination.
The seed sown being of a given quantity in each case:
SEED SOWH TO THE DEPTH OP-
Half inch . .
CAME ABOVE GKOUKD IN—
PKOPOKTION of plants WHIOH
CAME UP.
Eleven days Seven-eighths.
.... All.
. . . . Seven-eighths.
. . . Thi-ee-fourths.
. . . . One -half.
. . . . Three-eighths.
. . . . One-eighth.
One inch Twelve days
Two inches Eighteen days
Three inches Twenty days
Four inches Twenty-one days ....
Five inches Twenty-two days . . .
Six inches Twenty-three days . . .
X. Time to Seed and Harvest.
The avei-age time to seed and harvest wheat in different parts of the United
States is given in the following table. It is compiled by the Department of Agricul-
ture from answers from the different States, and also gives the average quantity of
seed and the best wheat soils for the localities named :
AVERAGE
STATES.
Time of Sowing.
Bushels op seed
Pek Aoke.
Time op Harvest.
BEST SOIL.
Maine, . . . .
May 15 to June, .
IJ^bnsh.,. . .
August 20 to 30, . .
Sward corn stubble; high
ridges; dry pasture.
Clay loam; new upland; di-
New Hampshire ,
April to May 20, .
13/2 to 2 bush., .
August 1 to 20, . .
^
luvial ; black loam.
Massachusetts, .
April 10 to 25, . .
IJ^ to 2 bush., .
June 25 to Aug. 10, .
Vermont, . . .
May 1 to Sept., .
2 to 2)^ bush., .
Last Aug. to Sept. 1,
Loam clay : clay loam.
New York,
May 10 to Sept 1.,
l}i to 2 bush., .
July 2 to Aug. 10, .
Sandy loam; clay loam; loam
mixed with gravel.
New Jersey, . .
Sept. 1 to Oct. 15,
1% to 2 bush., .
June 28 to July 7, .
Friable loam; loam; clay
loam; sandy loam, rather
stiff.
Pennsylvania, .
Sept. 1 to Oct. 15,
IJ^ to 2 bush., .
June 15 to July 15, .
Light sandy ; clay soil ; sandy
loam ; limestone ; do. clay,
mixed with gravel; clay;
do. ; clay and gravel.
li to 2 bush..
Maryland, . .
October, . . . .
l}4 bush., . . .
June,
Rich loam; clay.
Virginia, .
Sept. 15 to Nov. 30,
1 to 2 bush., . .
June 15 to July 15, .
Clay; do. do.; clay and lime.
South Carolina, .
Oct. and Nov., . .
50 lbs
June 1, . . .
Clay.
Georgia, . . .
Sept. 15 to Nov., .
% to 1 bush., .
June 1,
Eed mulatto.
Alabama, . . .
Sept. to Dec, . .
>^ to 2 bush., .
June to July, . . .
Loam ; oak and hickory.
Tennessee, . .
Oct. 12, ... .
1 to 1>^ bush., .
June 15, . . .' . .
Dark loam ; all kinds.
Kentucky, . .
Sept. and Oct., . .
75 lbs., . . . .
July,
Clay. ,
Ohio, . . . .
Sept. 1 to Oct, 25,
1 to 13-2 bush., .
June 28 to July 20, .
Oak and maple land; clay;
do.; very warm; limestone;
clay loam; yellow clay;
clay; sandy.
Indiana, . . .
Sept. to Oct , . .
1 to 2 bush., . .
June 15 to July 20, .
Sand and loam; clay loam;
clay ; improved clay ; loam
do.; clay; sandy loam.
Illinois, . . .
Aug. to Sept. 30, .
1 to l}i bush., .
May to July 1, . .
Sandy loain; clay; oat or clo-
ver stubble; clover; rich
loam.
Michigan , . . .
Sept. 3 to Oct. 1, .
IM to 1}4 bush..
June to July 30, . .
Marl clay; clay and sand;
oak; clay loam.
Iowa, . . .
Aug. 20 to Sept. 15,
90 lbs. to 13^ bu..
July 5 to 20, . . .
Texas, . , . .
Oct. 1 to Dec. 15, .
3^ bush., . . .
May 1 to June 10, .
Lime soil.
9(5 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
Cultivating. — ^There can be very little cultivation of the growing wheat under
our system of tillage. We must have a much denser population, great division of
farms, and very much cheaper labor first. A light harrowing in the spring if the
ground becomes crusted, or a rolling if the land heaves, is almost all that can be done.
Hence, the advantage of clean land and a thorough preparation of the soil. No crop
that is largely composed of weeds ever yet paid the cultivator.
XI. Harvesting Wlieat.
The proper time for harvesting wheat is still open to discussion. The miller
insists that wheat cut just in the dough state, and carefully cured, makes the most
and the best flour per bushel. There is no doubt of it, but it costs more to harvest
the crop, and the yield per acre is not so large. Will the miller, or rather the buyer
in the market, pay more for wheat harvested in this condition than for wheat har-
vested when fully ripe? No ! Then, the farmer will let his crop stand until it is so
nearly ripe that there will be no difficulty in curing it in the shock and stack. In
this, the farmer must so calculate, that the whole harvest shall be cut before the. grain
crinkles down or shells from the head. If harvest facilities are not just what you
desire, cut the first of the harvest rather green; the grain is good for milling, that is,
it will ripen for milling, as soon as the grain, squeezed between the fingers, shows a
fairly firm, pasty consistency. But that intended for seed should not only be fully
ripe ; it must be taken from the very best part of the field and stacked separately
from the rest.
XII. How to Shock the Grain.
The importance of careful shocking is almost always underestimated. Whenever
there is danger of rain during harvest, this work should be done in the most careful
manner. To do this, the sheaves must be properly
placed, and the cap sheaves properly broken over
to turn rain. If well done, it takes a long-continued
storm to injure the grain. To illustrate the whole
fully we have prepared these figures as a guide.
SECOND CAP. riRST CAP. Stand four sheaves in a row, the two end sheaves
slanting somewhat, and pressing against the others. Strike
the butts firmly into the stubble, then place sheaves firmly
against these, three on a side. This makes a round shock.
For the first cap take a long, smooth sheaf, break all the heads
back toward the band, to one side and the .other as shown in
the cut. Lay it on the shock, throwing the heads each way,
and with the butt to the east. Then break the second cap
down at the band, spreading somewhat, and lay it on with the
butt to the west. The shock will then look like the third
figure, entitled " The Shock Finished," and, when fairly ™'^ shock finished.
settled, will not be liable to be blown over by any ordinary wind. Let your shocks
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
97
run perfectly straight across the field, however long it may be, and at equal distances
apart. The cost of shocking is hardly an appreciable quantity in the cost of a crop,
and whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well. It is a great comfort for the
farmer to know, in bad weather, that his crop is safe.
XIII. Importance of Good Seed.
We have already shown that the ancients
thought it worth while to select the best ears
directly from the field. The best cultivators
of to-day do this, and thus produce pedi-
gree grain that sells for large prices. Every
farmer should do this. If it pays the seeds-
men it will pay the farmer. If in your exam-
ination you find a head distinct in its character-
istics, save it and plant it in an experimental
plat. The success of Major F. F. Hallett, of
Kemptown, England, in this line has been
famous for many years. In 1874, he deliv-
ered, before the Midland Farmer's Club, of
Birmingham, an address, in which he stated his
whole plan of operations. His mode of pro-
cedure, results and general conclusions are
given in the next two articles. But what is
pedigree grain ? It is — and the same is true of
all grains — seed selected and cultivated for
years under the best possible conditions. The
engraving shows an accurate and life-size rep-
resentation of the wheat grown by Maj. Hal-
lett. Compare this with the head of red blue-
stem wheat, on page 93, also shown in its
natural size, as taken from fields — the others
represented being select heads. The compari-
son will convince any intelligent reader of the importance of selection in seed.
XIV. Pedigree Grain.
"A GRAIN produces a plant consisting of many ears. I plant the grain from
these ears in such a manner that each ear occupies a row by itself, each of its grains
,. occupying a hole in this row, the holes being twelve inches apart everyway. At
harvest, after the most careful study and comparison of the plants from all these
grains, I select the finest one, which I accept as a proof that its parent grain was
the best of all, under the peculiar circumstances of that season. This process is
HALLETT'S PEDI-
GREE WHEAT.
HALLETT'S PEDI-
GREE WHEAT.
98
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
repeated annually, starting every year with the proved best grain, although the verifi-
cation of this superiority is not obtained until the following harvest."
ToMe showing the importance of each additional generation of selection.
YEAH.
SELECTED EAKS
LKKGTH.
CONTAINING.
NO. OP EAKS
ON FINEST
STOOL.
1857
1858
1859
1860
1861
Original ear, • . . . . . . .
Finest ear . . . .
Finest ear, ....
Ears imperfect from wet season, . • .
Finest ear,
Inches.
4%
7%
'm
Oi-ains.
47
79
91
123"
'10'
22
39
52
Thus, by means of repeated selection alone, the length of the ears was doubled,
their contents nearly trebled, and the "tillering" power of the seed increased
fivefold.
The following ■ table gives similar increased contents of ear obtained in three
other varieties of wheat :
'\AEIETIES OF WHEAT
Original red, commenced 1857, .
Hunter's white, commenced 1861,
Victoria white, commenced 1862,
Golden drop, commenced 1864, .
GRAINS IN' ORI-
GINAL EAR.
GRAINS IN' IM-
PROVED EAU.
123
124
114
XV. General Conclusions.
1. — Every fully developed plant, whether of wheat, oats or barley, presents
an ear superior in productive power to any of the rest on that plant.
2. — Every such plant contains one grain which, upon trial, proves more produc-
tive than any other.
3. — The best grain in a given plant is found in its best ear.
4. — The superior vigor of this grain is transmissible in different degrees to
its progeny..
5. — By repeated careful selection the superiority is accumulated.
6. — The improvement, which is at first rapid, gradually, after a long series
of years, is diminished in amount, and eventually so far arrested that, practically
speaking, a limit to improvement in the desired quality is reached.
7. — By still continuing to select, the improvement is maintained, and prac-
tically a fixed type is the result.
XVI. Artificial Cross Fertilization.
The wheat plant, and the grasses generally, have perfect blossoms — that is,
stamens or male organs; and the female organs, or stigma and ovary. Perfect seeds
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
99
of two races are selected and planted in separate patches of alternate rows of male
and female, the individual seeds ten inches apart each Wdy, as shown in the diagram :
No. 1. *M*M*M*M*M*M
2.
1.
2.
1.
2.
M*M*M*M*M*M
No.
2.
*M*M*M*M*M*M
1.
*p *Tp "F * p *!> *]?'
2.
*M*M*M*M*M*M
1.
*F *F *F *F *r*F
2.
*M*M*M*M*M*M.
1.
*p *]?' *ii' *F *F *F
The notion is that No. 1 of the first plat shall fertilize No. 2 of the second, and vice
versa. As soon as the anthers show, clip off all carefully from the lines marked 1
throughout one of the patches, 1 being supposed to be of one variety and 2 of
another. From the other cut the anthers from all the lines marked 2, cover with
gauze to keep off insects for three days, or until the anthers have lost all their pollen
and shrunk up.. You will have the product of two races; the male of No. 1 with
female of No. 2, and the male of No. 2 with the female of No. 1. From selections
of the produce of these experiments you may preserve heads with distinct and valuable
characteristics.
The three cuts show some results in this direction. Fig. 1, White Kussian, is a
beardless, white-chaff amber wheat. Fig. 2, Defiance, is also a beardless spring
wheat, a cross of club wheat upon a variety from California. Fig. 3, Martin Amber,
is a cross on Eed Mediterranean, having the quality in the young plant of lying close
to the ground; beardless, an amber berry, with a thin hull. [See next page. J
XVII. Reputable Old Varieties of Wheat.
A REPORT from the Department of Agriculture on samples of wheat from various
States at the Centennial Exhibition, shows the general estiniation of well-tested
varieties, and is valuable for reference. In relation to new varieties, yearly appearing,
every person must be guided by experiment, or by the advice of those who have tried
them. The statement in relation to well-tested sorts, most of which will continue to
hold their popularity, is as follows:
In the New England States we find the Lost Nation, Tappahannock and Lancaster
Eed Chaff, the most commonly cultivated; while samples of Arnautka, Canada,
Hybrid, White Laisette and White Italian occur. New York adds Diehl, Treadwell,
China Tea and other varieties. In the remaining Middle States and Maryland, Vir-
ginia and North Carolina we find Fultz and Mediterranean grown ; Tappahannock,
White Canada and Golden Chaff are also represented. Ohio has sent nearly the
same wheats as are grown in Pennsylvania, only one name not previously occurring,
that of "Todd" wheat, being observed. Indiana and Illinois grow Lancaster, Michi-
gan, Amber, Tappahannock, Odessa Eed, Fultz, China, Missouri, Velvet, Early, Oran,
Scotts, Egyptian, and two or three other varieties. In the Missouri collection we
100
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Fig. 1.
Fig. 2
Fig. 3.
[TE RUSSIAN
DEFIANCE
MARTIN AMBER
AVHEAT.
WHEAT.
WHEAT.
still find Fultz and Odessa, together
with New York Flint, Independence
Spring, etc. Iowa contributes Rio
Grande, Canada, Fife and White
Chili. Among the varieties grown
in Minnesota are Scotch Fife, Eio
Grande and China Tea, before men-
tioned, with the addition of Eureka,
Early Sherman and White Hamburg.
Michigan sends Diehl, Gold Medal
and White Mountain.
The wheats of Kansas and Colo-
rado, approaching in appearance
those of California, are White Colo-
rado, White California, Turkey and
Colorado Eed Chaff, while Nebraska
gives the names of Priest Spring,
Otoe and Russian Club. Among the
wheats of the Pacific coast, prin-
cipally white wheats, the White
Australian appears to be the general
favorite. The White Chili is also
grown, and such varieties as Canada
Club, Jones, Propo, Pride of Butte
and Nonpareil are represented in the
collection. From Texas and New
Mexico we have Sonora and Zara-
goza. From the remaining Southern
States the collection of wheats is
very meager.
The varieties of wheat that have
originated apparently by accident or
from peculiar culture, do not enjoy
the surroundings necessary for con-
tinuous product. The care of man
is necessary to preserve or to render
perfect the already improved varie-
ties. That cross fecundation may be
practiced was proved by Maund and
Raynbird as early as 1851. In that
year their specimens took the prize
in the Ijondon exhibition.
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
101
/
XVIII. Rye and Its Cultivation.
Rye is comparatively little raised in the United States. It succeeds on thin,
sandy land, not strong enough for wheat. As a crop for pasturing, or for plowing
under, it is valuable if sown among corn in August, and should
really find a place on every farm. It is not so liable to freeze out
as wheat, and stands the winter better in almost every way. As
the soil becomes, less adapted to wheat, rye will gain more and more
in importance. There are few varieties. The white winter varieties
should be sown, if the grain is to be harvested ; but for pasture
and plowing under, the so-called black varieties are hardier. The
rye raised in the United States is almost in the proportion of one
bushel to fifteen of wheat, and as one to eighty of corn. Our ex-
port of rye is from 200,000 to 500,000 bushels a year. The culti-
vation and care are precisely like that of wheat ; but it is generally
sown on a single plowing.
Some attention has been paid of late years to improved varie-
ties. The cut shows the so-called Montana Spring Rye, natural
size. We think more attention should be paid to the spring
varieties of this grain, in all that great portion of the West devoted
to the raising of spring wheat.
For a seed crop rye is sown the last of September in the North,
as late as the last of October in the latitude of St. Louis, and even
later farther south. The best rye flour is made from that raised
on sandy land ; but rye is adapted to a great variety of soils not
really wet.
Rye is almost unknown for bread in the United States, though
in the northern parts of Europe, notably in Russia and Germany,
it is one of the principal bread grains. In the extreme northern
portions of the United States, and on some sandy soils not well
adapted to other grain, more or less rye is raised. But the propor-
tion to other grains is very small, being not more than one to
seventy-five of Indian corn, which has usurped its place for distill-
ing and as food for horses. In this country it is principally culti-
vated to furnish green forage for horses, and is usually sown
broadcast in October, at the rate of a bushel and a half to the acre,
or if drilled at the rate of one bushel to the acre. Of course the
time of sowing and harvesting, as well as the quantity of seed to
the acre, and soil best adapted to this grain, will vary with the
latitude and climatic conditions.
The following table, carefully compiled, will give more information as to the
time of sowing, etc., than could be gathered into pages of description:
MONTANA SPRING
RYE.
102
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
AVERAGE
Time of
STATES.
Time of Sowi
NG. Bushels OP SEED
Per Ague.
Harvest.
BEST SOIL
Maine
Fall and Spri
ng, II4 bush
New, burnt land.
NewHarapshlre,
Sept. and Ap
ril, 1 to2bush..
July and Aug., .
Sandy; silicious; newly cleared
land,
High, warm, light land.
Massachusetts, .
Aug. to Sept.
.lto\l4 bush., .
Vermont, . . .
September,
■IJi tol>i bush.,
Last July to Aug.
Light.
New York,
Sept. 1 to No^
r., . 1 to 2 bush., . .
July 10 to 25, .
Sandy and slate ; sand ; sandy loam,
or gravel ; gravelly loam. "
New Jersey, . .
September 1,
.Ibush., . . .
July 1, . . . .
Light, sandy loam.
Pennsylvania, .
Sept. 1 to 15,
. 1 to 1)^ bush., .
Last June to July
Gravel; serpentine; stubble.
Maryland, . .
October, .
. 1 bush., . . . .
June, . . . .
Light.
South Carolina, .
October, .
. Ys bush., . .
June, . . . .
Gray land.
Georgia, . . .
September,
.?^bush., . . .
July, .
Mulatto.
Alabama, . . .
October, .
.i^bush., . . .
May, . . . .
Light.
Mississippi, . .
September,
. >^ bush., . . .
May and June, .
Kich loam.
Tennessee, . .
September 1,
. 1 bush., . . .
June 15 to July,
Black, thin loam.
Ohio
Sept. and Oct
., . 1 to 1>^ bush., .
June to July,
Clay; clay, light; sandy and warm
oak and hickory clay.
Indiana, . . .
Sept. to Oct.,
. 1 to 11^ bush., .
June 20 to July,
Dry; just cleared.
Illinois, . . .
Oct. and Nov
., . 2 to 2>^ bush., .
June 20 to July,
Clay; or sandy loam.
Michigan, . . .
October 10,
.IJ^bush., . . .
July 15, . . .
Clay or loam.
Iowa, . . . .
September,
.2 bush., . . .
July, . . . .
XIX. Barley and Its Cultivation.
There is no farm crop liable to so many vicissitudes, which reduce its market
value, as barley. Were it not used in such immense quantities by brewers, in the
manufacture of beer, its cultivation would be almost abandoned. Except in localities
where the grain can be harvested bright and in good condition, it is now little culti-
vated. Barley is less nutritious than wheat, but contains one-seventh more feeding
value than oats, pound for pound. Strong dry loams and sandy soils give the best
quality of grain, and very considerable care should be given to the preparation of the
soil to have it light and mellow ; the prairie region
of the far West, the plains, the valleys of the
Rocky Mountain region, and the Pacific slope,
where rain does not interfere with curing it
'^^^ji B WN w II - properly, are the principal sources from which
7 ^^A. I'M IbJJ ^^^ brewers get their malting supplies.
XX. Time for Sowing Barley.
There is winter and spring barley, but the
spring varieties are generally sown. There are
two principal classes, the two-rowed and the six-
rowed, and many varieties, some of them pedigree
sorts. In the South, winter barley is usually sown ;
in the North, spring barley almost universally.
The usual yield on good land is from twenty to
^■.-^ m .xrm ATcrr, mi-Ar. tweutv-five bushels an acre, but under exceptional
WINTER BAELET- PLANT AND head. u-i^^^j i
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
103
Circumstances as high as sixty bushels have been harvested. The time for sowing
winter barley is about the same as for winter wheat. Spring barley should not be
sown until the soil has acquired some warmth, or about three weeks before the
usual time of planting Indian corn. The following table gives precise information,
compiled from many sources in various States where barley is grown.
STATES.
Maine, . . . .
NewHampshire,
Massachusetts, .
Vermont, . . .
New York, . .
Pennsylvania, .
South Carolina, .
Tennessee, . .
Ohio, . . . .
Indiana, . . .
Michigan, . . .
Iowa, . . . .
When Sown.
iJnst of May, .
April; May, .
May, . . .
July 1, . . .
AprillOtoMaylO
March 15, . .
September, .
March 1, . .
April 1 to May 1,
April to Sept.,
April 15 to Mayl
March to April 1
Aterage
Seed Sown
Per Acre.
2 hush., . .
23^ to 4 bush.,
2)4 to 3 bush ,
2 bush., . .
2 to 3 bush., .
13^ to 2 busli.,
2 bush., . .
1 bush., . .
1)4 to 2 hush.,
IJi to lyi bush.
% to 2 bush.,
\y^ bush., . .
Time op
Harvest.
August, . .
July 30, . .
August 1, . .
July 1 to Aug.,
June and July,
May, . . .
July 1, . . .
July 1 to 25, .
June 25 to Aug.,
July 7 to Aug. 1,
July 1, . . .
BEST SOIL.
Black loam.
High, warm land.
Dry.
Loam ; warm loam ; loam and muck ;
sandy loam ; black sandy loam.
Heavy cl»y ; sandy loam.
Clay.
Clay, mixed with sand; clay loam;
loose do.
Clay; do. loam; dry, sandy loam.
Sandy loam; rich loam.
XXI. Harvesting and Threshing Barley.
Harvesting is the most difficult thing in making a crop of barley ; but the price
of first-class grain will always pay for the trouble. Barley is never harvested until
it is ripe, so the seed will germinate evenly ; but it should not be allowed to get dead
ripe, else the grain will be dark-colored. When the red streaks, which run length-
wise in the ripening grain, disappear, and the head begins to hang down, and the
straw takes on a yellow hue, it is ready for the harvester. Where cured without
binding, the grain sooner comes into condition, sweats more uniformly in the shock,
and is somewhat better in color; but in all regions subject to rain, it is more easily
protected from staining when bound. Sheaves should be small and of even size.
This is easily regulated with self-binders.
Threshing. — The threshing should never be done with a spike-thresher. A
beater-machine is better, and the flail, or tramping out by horses, best of all. The
reason of this is, that if the germ is injured — which is almost sure to be the case
when it is threshed with the ordinary thresher — the value of the grain for malting is
greatly diminished, for upon its germinating powers depends its value. After
threshing, oare must be taken that the barley does not sweat in the heap or bin.
Unless quite dry, it must be moved often until it is wholly cured.
XXII. New Varieties of Barley.
Among the better kinds of barley for malting, is the Chevalier, a pedigree
variety that is in repute in England and France. In the United States, it has given
great satisfaction wherever tried. It is a two-rowed variety. The Manshury, a six-
104
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
rowed sort, originated in Canada, and was new in 1882. It is recommended as
standing up well in the richest soils, and superior for malting. Sibley's Imperial
ANNAT BAKLEY. CHEVALIER BAELEY. ENGLISH BAELEY.
barley originated in Vermont. It is a six-rowed variety, tillering freely, long in the
CEKEALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
105
straw and head, and with jnedium beards. It is hardy and prolific,
barley originated in Western New Yorli. It is a six-rowed variety,
of stiff straw, medium height, and is especially free from crinkling
down when ripe. Annat barley is a variety that has given good
satisfaction. The cuts show the common English barley. Chevalier
barley, and Annat barley, natural sizes.
XXIII. Oats and Their Cultivation.
The value of oats in the agriculture of the United States and Can-
ada is enormous . However small the farm , oats are an important factor
in the crop, and for feeding horses are considered a necessity in spring
and summer. This crop really stands next in importance after wheat
in the cereal crops of the country. For feeding young animals oats
are coming more and more into favor every year, on account of
their bone and muscle making properties. They are adapted to
nearly all soils not really sandy or wet, and the straw is more
useful on the farm than that of any other grain. Taking the year
1879, a fairly productive year throughout the country, we find the
values of the principal crops of the United States to be as follows :
Corn, $580,486,217; wheat, $497,030,142; hay, $330,804,494;
cotton, $242,140,987; oats, $120,533,294; potatoes, $79,153,673 ;
barley, $23,714,444; tobacco, $22,727,524; rye, $15,507,431 ; and
buckwheat, $7,856,191.
XXIV. Export of Pood Crops.
The following table of exports shows that oats are one of the
crops consumed at home. Both the years 1878 and 1879 were of fair
Adams's heavy
HORSE -MANE OATS.
average export.
PRODUCTS.
BKEADSTOFFS AND OTHER PREPARATIONS.
1S78.
1S79.
QUANTITY.
Barley, bushels,
Bread and biscuit, pounds, .
Com, bushels,
Corn-meal, barrels, . . .
Oats, bushels,
Eye, bushels,
Eye-flour, barrels, . . . .
Wheat, bushels,
Wheat-flour, barrels, . . .
Other small grain and pulse, .
Other preparations of grain, .
Eice, pounds,
Total value of breadstuff s, etc.,
3,921,501
14,392,231
85,461,098
432,753
3,715,479
4,207,912
6,962
72,404,961
3,947,333
631,105
$2,565,736
730.317
48,030,358
1,336,187
1,277,920
3,051,739
30,775
96,872,016
25,095,721
1,077.433
1,709,639
33,953
715,536
15,565,190
86,296,252
397,160
5,452,136
4,851,715
4,351
122,353,936
5,629,714
740,136
$181,811,794
$401,180
682,471
40,655,120
1,052,231
i;618,644
3,103,970
15.113
130,701,079
29,567,713
817,536
1,740,471
35,538
$210,391,066
106
THE HOME AND rAKM MANUAL.
XXV. Species of Oats— Their Latitude.
The following are acknowledged species of oats, the botanical name of which is
Avena Sativa:
Avena trevis, or short oat, which ripens early; it is raised in some parts of
France as forage.
Avena Fatua, or California oats, which is thought to be identical with White
Tartarian oats.
Avena Nuda, or hulless oats, an old variety, probably
produced by cultivation. It has been known in England for
more than three hundred years, and comes up again and again
under new names. It is not valuable for general cultivation,
on account of shelling so easily.
Avena Orientalis, or Tartarian oats, probably brought
into Europe in the latter part of the seventeenth century.
Avena Strigosa, or bristle-pointed oat. The seeds are
small, it is not productive, and may be called worthless.
As a rule white oats are more salable, but the black and
brown varieties are thought to be hardier and more prolific.
The cut shows a panicle of White Russian oats reduced in
size. The oat is essentially a grain adapted to cultivation in
temperate and northern latitudes, and has both winter and
spring varieties. The winter varieties are raised in the latitude
of Kentucky and in the South. In Europe oats are cultivated
as far north as latitude 64° to 65°. It is grown successfully
up to the northern limits of the United States, and in Canada.
The limit of successful culture reaches farther and farther
northward, as we pass west to the Pacific coast.
XXVI. Soil and Cultivation of Oats.
Oats require rich, moist land. Any good Indian corn land
will produce uniformly heavy crops of oats, except in seasons
of early drought. Strong, fairly drained clays, and strong
loams are adapted to this crop. Oats will not stand drought,
nor hot suns. The best crops are raised in cool, rather moist
WHITE RUSSIAN OATS. geasous. The table following is useful for reference.
How and When to Plant. — As a rule, especially on strong and tenacious clay,
the land should be fall-plowed, and as deep as the soil will admit. The sowing should
not be too early, since the young crop is easily killed by freezing. A fair rule is to sow
about a month before the time for corn-planting; but if the season is untoward, the
sowing may be delayed up to the time for planting corn. But in all late sowings the
crop is apt to suffer from heat and drought, so it is important to get the seeding done
as early as the season will admit. Oats are almost always sown broadcast, two and a
CEREALS AND THEIR CULTIVATION.
107
half bushels to the acre. Three bushels an acre on land in good heart would be better,
since the crop does not tiller much, and thick sowings give a more equal ripening of
the grain. The seed should in no case be covered more than two inches, and the soil
must be in firm contact with the seed to ensure prompt germination.
STATES.
Time of Sowing.
Seed Per Acre.
Time of Harvest.
BEST SOIL.
Maine, . . . .
April to May, . .
2>g to 3 bush., .
August 10 to 20, .
Dry; gravelly.
NewHampshii'e,
April and May,
3 to 4 bush., . .
August 1,. . . .
Clay; sandy; free.
Massachusetts, .
AprillOtoM?iylO,
•i)4 to 3 bush., .
July 15 to Aug. 20,
High, warm land.
Vermont, . . .
April to May 15, .
March 15 to May 25
3 bush
August, . . . .
Light; sandy.
New York, . .
1^ to 3 bush., .
July 10 to Aug. 15,
Loam and muck; loam; deep.
black muck ; rich, sandy loaui .
New Jersey, . .
April 1 to 15, . .
2 to 2}4 bush., ,
July 20 to Aug. 1,
Sandy loam ; clay.
Pennsylvania, .
March 15 to April 15
1 to 3 bush., . .
July 10 to Aug. 1,
Sandy loam; light; sandy;
sandy loam; limestone do.
Bich; moist.
Maryland, . .
April,
2 bush., . . .
July
Dry loam ; clay and lime ; sandy
Virginia, . . .
Feb. to April 1 . .
1)^ to 234 bush..
July 10 to Aug. 10,
June 1 to last June,
loam; do.; do.
South Carolina, .
Dec. to Feb., . .
1 bush., . . .
Moist; sandy.
Georgia, . . .
Jan. to March 1 , .
1 to 1)4 bush., .
June to July 1 , . .
Slate loam.
Alabama. . , .
Nov. to April, . .
?^ to 1 bush., .
May and June, . .
Sandy loam.
Mississippi, . .
Oct. to Feb., . .
1 bush
July,
Light do.; clay.
Tennessee, . .
Feb. 15 to March, .
1)4 bush., . . .
July 10, . . .
Black loam, thin.
Kentucky, . .
March and April, .
48 lbs., . . . .
July
Ohio, . . . .
March and April, ,
2 bush., . . .
June to Aug. 1 , .
Loose loam ; do. do. ; clay loam ;
sandy loam ; oak and hickory
loam.
Indiana, . . .
March to May 1, .
1}4 to 2 bush., .
July 1 to August, .
Sandy loam; loam; clay; do.;
do.; do.; sandy.
Illinois, . . .
March 20 to April 4
l}i to 2 bush., .
June to Aug. 1,
Sandy loam ; light loam ; sandy
do.
Clay or sand ; rich loam ; sandy.
Michigan, . . .
April 10 to 30, . .
2 to 3 bush.,. .
July 7 to Aug. 1, .
Iowa, . . . .
April,
2 to 4 bush..
July 15 to Aug.,
Texas, . . . .
February, . . .
1 bush., . . .
May,
XXVII. Harvesting and Threshing Oats.
Oats are usually harvested before they are fully ripe. When fully ripe they
shell easily, the hull becomes hard and glassy, and the straw is much reduced in value.
Oats cure readily, and are seldom put in close, cajjped shocks. They are not easily
injured by rain, and hence they are generally shocked by setting a row of sheaves
leaning together, uncapped. Whenever the straw is found valuable, it will always
pay to shock like wheat and barley, with two cap-sheaves to each shock.
XXVIII, Varieties of Oats to Cultivate.
In the South, where oats are subject to rust and blight, the winter varieties ax-e
sown. The Eed Eust-proof is usually preferred. The White Winter oats is growing
in favor on rich uplands and drained bottom lands. It stands the winter as far north
as Virginia ; is said to be rust-proof, and improved by moderate grazing.
In the North, the Black Tartarian is the most universally grown. It is the best
of black oats. It is probably adapted to a greater variety of soil and climate than
any other one variety. Among white oats, the Schoenen and Probsteier are generally
108
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
liked. Among newer varieties, White Zealand', said to be rust-proof; White
Australian and White Russian (see cut) are yearly gaining in favor.
XXIX. Buckwheat.
The cultivation of buckwheat receives little attention in the West, and in the
East it is sown principally as a secondary crop, where others have failed. It is some-
times difficult to eradicate it the second season, since the seeds shelled out in harvesting,
germinate the next season, producing a volunteer crop. Sandy soils, and indeed, rather
poor sands, produce the best buckwheat for flouring. It is one of the best fallow crops
for turning under green, or just at the time of blossoming.
For a seed crop, the sowing should be so timed, that it will be in full seed at the
time of the first frosts, since it requires cool nights to fruit properly. Sow about the
fifteenth to the twentieth of June in the latitude of Maine and Minnesota, and later,
even to the first of July, in the latitude of Philadelphia and Central IlUnois.
XXX. Seeding and Harvesting Buckwheat.
The plant is tropical and killed by the slightest frost. It was introduced origi-
nally from Persia, and its name buckwheat is a corruption of beech-wheat, from the
resemblance of its three-cornered seeds to those of the beech. The blossoms are
eagerly sought by bees, from the abundance of honey they contain.
The seed is sown on fresh-plowed land, at the rate of two or three pecks, or if
very late, one bushel per acre. The seed should be covered lightly (one-half inch).
At the time of the first frost the crop is cut, laid in gavels, and set together, without
binding until dry. Then it is threshed with the flail, or tramped out by horses.
The yield varies according to the seasons from ten to forty bushels per acre, and the
seed approaches, in price, about that of wheat. There are few varieties. The
Silver-hull is considered the best, but the common buckwheat is generally sown.
Time of Seeding, etc. — The following table gives the desired information :
STATES.
Maine, ....
New Hampshire,
Vermont, . . .
New York, . ..
New Jersey, .
Pennsylvania,
Tennessee,
Kentucky,
Oliio, . .
Indiana, .
Illinois, .
Michigan, .
lowii, . .
Time of Sowing.
Middle of Jnne, ,
June,
Julyl, . . . .
June 10 to July 20,
July 13 to last June
June 1 to last July,
May 20, . . . .
Mid. June to July 1
July 1 to Aug. 1, .
June to July], . .
SEED Per Acbe.
y^ bush., . .
y^ bush., . .
y^to Yz bush.,
)| to i bush ,
!4 to 1 bush.,
>^ to 1 bush.,
1 bush., . .
J^ to 1 bush.,
>2 to 1 bush.,
15 to 25 lbs., .
Time or Hakvest.
August; Sept., .
September, . .
Sept. 15 to Nov ,
June 15 to July 5, .: 'o to 2 bush.,
Jime 20, . . ' . . >e to 1>2 bush.,
September 15, . .
Sept. 1 to Oct. 15, .
October 15, . . .
Sept. 20 to Oct. 1,
Sept. to Oct. 1, . .
,' September, . . .
J Aug. 10 to Oct. 10,
. September 20, . '
BEST sou,.
Silicious.
Eich, sandy loam; saud and
loam; deep black muck; light
sandy.
Sandy..
Slate; sandy loam; gi'avel or
slate.
Mountain.
Loose loam; sandy; black, thin
and compact loam.
Clay; black loam.
Sandy loam; wheat stubble;
black muck.
Light loam; light sandy do.
CHAPTEE II.
INmAN CORN. RIGB, AND SPECIAL CROPS.
THE CROP IN THE UNITED STATES. II. HOW TO INCREASE THE AVERAGE. III. PROPER MA-
NURES FdR CORN. IV. THE CULTIVATION OF CORN — PLOWING. V. PREPARING THE SOIL. ■
VI. PLANTING THE CROP. VII. HARROWING THE YOUNG CORN. VIII. AFTER CULTIVATION OF
CORN. IX. HOW OFTEN TO CULTIVATE. X. DEPTH OF CULTIVATION. XI. HARVESTrbfG THE
CROP. ^XH. CUTTING AND SHOCKING. XIII. SEED CORN. XIV. COST OF A CORN CROP. XV.
VARIETIES OF CORN. XVI. RICE AND ITS CULTIVATION. XVII. TRUE WATER EICB, OR COM-
MERCIAL RICE. XVIII, CULTIVATION OP RICE IN CAROLLNA. XIX. MANAGEMENT OF RICE
FIELDS. ^XX. CULTIVATING THE CROP. XXI. FLOODING THE CROP. XXII. HARVESTING AND
THRESHING. XXIII. HULLING FOR MARKET. XXIV. RICE IN THE MISSISSIPPI DELTA. XXV.
SOME SPECIAL CROPS.
I. The Crop in the United States.
|HE United States now raise as the average 1,600,000,000 bushels of corn yearly,
an increase of 100,000,000 bushels per year, for the present decade, as compared
with the last few years of the last decade. The American crop is seventy-eight per
cent of the Indian corn crop of the world, the total production outside the United
States being only 360,000,000 bushels yearly. And yet the general average yield per
acre in this country is only about twenty -three bushels per acre , and the best average yield
in the great corn year of 1880, only twenty-seven and a half bushels per acre, while
authenticated yields of one hundred bushels per acre could be cited on one-hundred-
acre fields, and special yields of one hundred and forty bushels to the acre on smaller
areas. Whole counties have averaged sixty bushels, and some States forty bushels
per acre in particular years. Taking all these facts, and remembering that no good
farmer is satisfied with less than forty to sixty bushels in ordinary seasons, and it
seems certain that a majority of farmers must be wofully negligent in their cultivation
and recklessly inattentive to their best interests.
Compariag Results. — Let us estimate the loss from ignorance, or bad cultiva-
tion of the corn crop, as shown by the best average of the State and the general
average of the country, remembering that the light averages are not in hilly, rocky,
worn New England, but in countries of so-called virgin soil. Take the average
annual yield at 1,500,000,000 bushels for the country, the general average of twenty-
six bushels per acre, and the best State average of forty bushels per acre. Suppose
the general average brought up to forty bushels, and the corn crop of the country
would be increased fifty per cent, making a total of 2,250,000,000 bushels. At the
average price of fifty-two cents, this would increase the annual value of the crop by
flOO] f
110 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
over $390,000,000. Would this pay for the better cultivation of the crop? Even
.those who do not believe in advanced farming, must admit that it would.
II. How to Increase the Average.
There are only three reasons why the average yield of corn is not forty bushels
per acre, as the minimum crop. In no ordinary season should it go below that, over
any large area. The causes which keep down the average are: 1, want of drainage; 2,
want of manure; and 3, bad cultivation. There are also these three causes, which may
reduce the crop locally: 1, destruction by insects; 2, an excessively wet season, pre-
venting proper cultivation; and 3, excessive drought. Untimely frosts can hardly be
taken into account, since they occur so seldom that drainage, by allowing earlier
planting and steady growth, would entirely throw this out of the calculation, and it
would also practically do away with danger of severe loss from wet and dry seasons.
As it is, through all the great corn region of the West, our dry seasons are our
best ones. "Drought scares the farmer, but water utterly destroys his hopes."
Therefore, if the land needs drainage, attend to it at once. (See Chapter V,
Part III, on Drainage.) It is the best investment, because it is a permanent one.
If the soil lacks fertility, improve it by manure, a proper rotation, and by plowing
under suitable crops. (See aiticles on Manure, Eotation and Fallow Crops.)
III. Proper Manures for Corn.
Corn is one of the gross feeders. IThat is, it is a humus-loving crop, and the
roots feed upon any decaying substance. Barn-yard manure produces the best
results. Ashes are valuable, since corn is one of the potash-loving plants ; plaster
(gypsum) is good on sandy soils. Phosphate, guano and other commercial manures
are always valuable, where they may be cheaply obtained. Barn-yard manure
should be spread in the autumn, plowed under rather deep, and the land plowed
again in the spring, but not so deep as to bring the manure to the surface ; then
some special fertilizer should be added. Ashes, plaster, and other commercial fertil-
izers should be applied in the spring broadcast, and lightly covered, say with a
harrow. The roots will be certain to find it. The soil between the rows will
become a perfect net-work of roots before the plant attains its full growth.
Prize Crops. — Phe prize crops of corn are raised upon rich soil, heavily
manured with green barn-yard manure, plowed under deep in the autumn before
planting — not less than forty good loads per acre. In the winter cover the land with
twenty loads of rotten manure and plow this in, say, four inches deep. Then use some
commercial fertilizer for a surface dressing. We have raised one hundred bushels of
field corn to the acre by this plan, using plaster and home-made manure of night-soil
for surface dressings, and this without hoeing with the hand-hoe. By this plan we
have also raised one thousand dozen of green corn per acre for the market. Farther
on we will show how about forty bushels per acre were raised on a field of over
twelve hundred acres — on land that had never been manured — and the cost.
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INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS. Ill
IV. The Cultivation of Corn — Plowing,
It is a great mistake to suppose that fall plowing is not advantageous in the
cultivation of corn. We speali of clay loams and clay soils, of course, such as
raise our best crops. On sandy soils, fall plowing is not necessary, since such soils
do not require the action of frost to mellow them. It is true, the spring plowing
should not be omitted, but this is always superficial, never more than four inches deep,
and may be done at the rate of three acres per day to the single plow. Besides the
better disintegration of the soil, by freezing and thawing, when fall-plowed, the soil
comes into condition earlier in the spring, absorbs warmth quicker, and as a rule may
be worked much earlier than land not fall-plowed.
V. Preparing the Soil.
In the introduction to the chapter on cereal grains, we advised to follow with the
planter immediately after plowing. This adviee is general. It is by no means true,
however, that letting the soil lie for a week or ten days is injurious. On the contrary,
it may be decidedly beneficial. In this case the land must again be made fine at the
surface, and this kills one crop of weeds. In the case of fall plowing, there is nothing
gained by letting the ground lie after plowing, and before planting. In the case of
YELLOW DENT CORN. Two-thirds Natural Size. See page 119.
spring plowing, without fall plowing, the planter must be guided by circumstances.
Never neglect plowing for corn, when the land is in good condition, because the season
is too early for planting; and never let the land lie unplanted, after plowing, when
the season for planting has arrived. Loosening the soil, or smoothing it after fresh
plowing, is best done by a sharp harrow, but harrowing must never be delayed until
the weeds are up in a field to show green. The work of the harrow, to be effective,
must be done just as the weeds are coming up, and this will be in about a week or ten
days after spring plowing, according to the season. If you have not underdrained
wet places, turn to the chapter on Artificial Drainage, and see how easily and cheaply
the surplus water may be carried off. Only injury will result from plowing,
harrowing or cultivating the soil when it is not in a thoroughly friable state. Then
please remember that fully half the cost of raising a crop of corn, in the West at
least lies in the proper plowing and fining the soil before planting.
112
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
VI. Planting the Crop.
There are four pinncipal things to be remembered in planting a field of corn :
1, The rows should be perfectly straight. 2, The seed must be strong in its germ.
3, The planter must drop the seed accurately, and rather closely together, rather than
widely spread. 4, Whatever the number of grains planted, more than four stalks
should never be allowed to the hill ; three is better.
If your farm is too small to allow you to own a check-row planter, hire your
planting done by all means. There is no doubt but corn may be planted as well by
hand as by a machine; but children and hired men will not do it, and, at best, it is
tedious and costly. Do not plant too close. Three feet and a half is close enough
between rows for the dwarf varieties, three feet eight or ten inches for the medium
varieties, and four feet is not too much for the Mammoth Southern varieties. If you
have been careful to lay out your first row straight, as in the directions for plowiqg,
you may with care keep every other row straight, by means of a re-marker attached
'O'lfJAlli",',
IwliiwiwiMMiiM^
mm
ft!Stya*a iffli-jiftKruiiy :ti
itoi'itiirtaas^wC'Oa
WHITE DENT CORN. Two-tliiids Natural Size. See page 120.
to the planter and the check-rower. Perfectly straight rows should add five bushels
an acre to the crop, through the better cultivation possible thereby. There is no
doubt that more corn may be raised per acre by accurately drilling so the stalks will
stand twelve inches apart in the row, but, except in small fields, or where the inten-
tion is to make a premium crop, the extra cost will not allow drill-cultivation to
become profitable, especially in the great corn regions of the United States.
VII. Harrowing the Young Corn.
The harrowing is the best cultivation young corn ever receives. Of course, the
ground must be measurably free from trash, and no sensible farmer plants on trashy
ground. With the present perfection in plows, trash may all be so deeply turned
under that the harrow will not find it, and as the corn gains size, the trash will be so
decayed as not to interfere seriously with good work. The harrowing should be
given with a sharp, light harrow, at the first indication of weeds, whether the corn
is up or not. If the corn is just pushing through the ground, care must be taken.
The o-erm is thus easily broken. Otherwise harrow the field without reference to
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND OTHER CROPS.
113
anything, except to destroy the weeds. If no weeds appear, and the top soil is not
crusted, the harrowing may be delayed until the rows of, corn can be seen. It will
often pay to harrow both ways, once before the corn is up and once after. After
the corn is up we have always found it pay to have careful hands uncover such
as may have been covered with trash and lumps. Two rows may be attended to each
time, going across the field, using a forked stick, or better, one crooked at the
end. The back of a hoe or rake is also useful for this purpose.
VIII. After Cultivation of Corn.
The hand-hoe finds no place in the cultivation of corn, except in very smg,ll
fields ; in those so rocky or stumpy that horse implements cannot work to advantage.
MICHIGAN YELLOW DENT CORN. Two-tliirds Natural Size. See page 119.
or in fields where the weeds have got the full start of the crop. In all fields of
this kind, the cultivation is attended with such disadvantages as often to bring the
balance on the wrong side of the ledger. That is, it will be cheaper to buy corn
than to raise it, unless the special purpose be to clean the land for other crops. A
roller may be used with success in some cases, after the harrow, if the ground is
very lumpy. "We have rolled corn eight inches high, and had it rise again all right;
but the land should not be lumpy, nor need it be if the directions in relation to fall
plowing have been followed. We repeat, never stir the land in the spring or summer
unless it will work friably.
A Busy Time. — From the time the corn is up four inches high the cultivator
must be kept moving. In catching weather every hour must be improved when the
soil is in condition. If rainy weather has interfered with cultivation, and weeds
begin to show unduly, pay no attention to regular hours, work the men from day-
light until it is too dark for them to see the rows at night, changing teams and paying
for extra time. This kind of work often saves a crop, for if once the weeds get a
full start it is difficult to overcome them. Remember always: the time to kill weeds
is while they are young.
Clean Crops. — No man ever raised a good crop who waited for the weeds to
grow before cultivating his land. The primary object of cultivation is to keep the
soil in such condition that it will admit air properly through its pores. Killing weeds
114
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
is only a secondary consideration. A weedy crop never pays its cost. A rich soil
always grows weeds. They are easy to kill when young; when their roots get strong
it is difficult. The Chinese, who have cultivated the same soil for over four thousand
years, have a saying that, " a clean crop is always good." Their fields are kept as
clean as a garden.
IX. How Often to Cultivate.
The cultivator should be kept going until the crop is so large that the stalks
cannot be pressed under the arch of the implement. Whenever the surface is crusted
from rain, moving the soil will be beneficial. Two harrowings and two to three
plowings are what the average crop should get. The operation should be guided by
the farmer's own observation of the necessities of the case. Wet, rainy weather
interferes with cultivation, and the farmer who calculates on the basis of fifty acres to
the hand, will, in bad seasons, not be able to do full justice to the crop; while in dry
seasons sixty-five acres to the hand may be well plowed. Why? Because the team
can work every day, and an average of eight acres a day will get over this area once
in about eight working days. A field ought to be plowed over once every ten
working days.
YELLOW FLINT CORN. -Two-thirds Natui-al Size. See page 123.
X. Depth of Gultivation.
There is a diversity of opinion as to the proper depth of cultivation. Our expe-
rience is that the cultivation should be to the depth of about three inches while the
corn is younor, but after it has made good root, the cultivation should be superficial.
By the time the corn is knee-high the soil becomes pretty well filled with roots. In
moist weather if the roots are torn they will quickly recuperate; if they are torn in
dry weather a decided injury ensues. After the corn begins to shoot, that is, to joint,
and prepare for blossoming, cutting the roots is a decided injury. After this time
the cultivation, if any be necessary, should be simply surface stirring, not more than
an inch and a half deep. Eoots do not penetrate the soil by forcing their way through
solid earth ; that is impossible. They find their way between the minute interstices
which are always present, however compact the soil. If the surface is kept mellow,
the sub-surface never becomes so compact but the pores are amply sufficient for the
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS.
115
roots. Corn is a fast-growing crop under heat and moisture. It is a crop that must
have mellow soil to give the best results. Other crops, such as wheat, onions, etc.,
require compact — not hard — sub-surface. Deep cultivation is not required for what
are known as hard or compact soil crops. It is decidedly injurious to the soft-soil
crops after the ground becomes filled with roots. A safe rule for corn, is to give deep
and clean cultivation while the crop is young; deep cultivation in the middle of the
rows, while the corn is eighteen inches to two feet high. After that the cultivation
should be shallow — simply sufficient to keep the surface fine and mellow. When the
corn fully shades the soil, the earth will no longer be beaten down by the rain. It
will not be liable to crust, nor will it become impacted or lose much moisture by
evaporation at the surface. The roots will arrest all this.
XI. Harvesting the Crop.
There are two ways of securing the crop of corn — by husking on the hill, and
by cutting and shocking, and husking from the shock. There are only three conditions
under which corn should be husked and shocked: 1, when the fodder will pay for the
A FIELD OF SHOCKED CORN.
extra cost of cutting and shocking, and the extra cost of husking f vom the shock ;
2, when the corn is, to be fed to cattle directly from the shock; 3, when, from danger
of early frosts, it becomes necessarj^ to shock the corn to assist it in ripening.
It costs about as much to cut and shock an acre of corn as to husk an acre on the
hill, or when the corn stands in the field as it grew. It takes twice as long to husk an
acre of corn from the shock, and tie up and re-shock the corn, as it does to husk it
standing in the field.
Husking from the Hill. — A team should be allowed to every two men. The
wagon should be provided with one wide extra side-board, with cleats on each side, so
they will slip down easily over the ordinary side-board. This is to prevent the corn
from flying over when thrown into the wagon. The wagon should always be to the
right of the huskers if possible, and two or four rows may be husked at a time. A
short board, ten inches wide, should slant into the rear of the wagon, for ease in
shoveling out the corn. When the wagon is filled and goes to the crib, the remaining
hand husks and throws the corn in piles on the ground, to be picked up on returning.
By this means, if the corn is dry, about one acre may be husked a day by each good
hand. We have known one man thus to husk seventy-five bushels in a day, and it is
116 THE HOME AND FARM MAlSfUAL.
said that one hundred bushels have been husked in a day by one man. It is certain
that a man will husk an acre of heavy, sound, dry, standing corn, easier than an acre
of soft and inferior corn, even when the yield in the first case is double what it is in
the latter.
XII. Cutting and Shockingr.
Cutting, shocking and tying corn, like any other work on the farm, must be
done systematically. The rows of shocks must run continuously through the field,
and at regular intervals. If set around a
single hill, a corn-horse should be used to
support the stalks until ready for binding.
This consists of a strong, smooth paling
twelve feet long, sharpened at one end,
coRN-HOKSE FOR SHOCKING, with an inch and a quarter hole two feet
from the end, and a pair of feet three feet
beyond, as shown in the cut. A rod five feet long, sharpened at one end and fitting
loosely in the hole, holds the corn until bound, when it is withdrawn and carried to
the next shock.
Cutting. — The diagram shows the manner of cutting, when forty-nine hills are
_ _^. placed in a shock, to save travel in carrying the
r "v ^ 'Y y^ ^ corn. Begin at a, and cut three hills as shown
1 „ i ,L I i on the dotted lines, and carry to the shock.
^ ^^ — ^ <^ ^ ^ ^ ■' .
Then walk to b, and cut as designated, and so
in succession until you get around back, and
cut the three hills, beginning at i. Then bind
firmly with a twisted hay-band.
Shocking around Tables. — In the "West,
where the fields are exposed to the full force of
the winds, shocks are often made sixty-four
hills square. By this plan the shocking places
may be formed by twisting four hills diagonally
together, so that what is known as a table is
formed for each shock. Formed in this way, and
CUTTING AND SHOCKING CORN. I i- j iU MI i J • Ui 1
securely tied, they will stand upright and secure
against the strongest winds. One man goes ahead of the cutters, and forms these
tables at regular intervals, by twisting two hills diagonally together, and then
another two. Afterwards he returns and ties the shocks.
Making the Bands. — Never trust to binding with corn-stalks or other material
found in the fields. Get your blacksmith to make you an iron crank with a simple
hook at one end. Before the hook is turned, slip a section of a rod suitable for
gripping, and properly bored, upon the shank. To twist the bands, throw down a
lot of hay upon the barn floor, shaking it up very light, moisten it, catch a little
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS. 117
with the hook, and begin walking backward, twisting as you go, while a boy feeds
the hay to the hook. When you have gone the whole length of the barn floor,
while the boy holds his end securely, slip your end off the hook and roll the whole
into a ball, and pass a skewer through the end of the hay rope and ball, first tucking
the end under so it will not pull out. Proceed in this way until you have bands
enough for your field. You will be surprised to find how many you can make in a day.
A Binder. — One difficulty in binding large shocks of corn is, that one man can-
not put the hay-band around the top and draw tight enough. The illustration of
implement to draw the tops of the shocks securely for binding,
almost explains itself. A is a piece of hardwood inch board,
two feet long, or more, and five inches wide, bored with three
holes, the two outside ones to receive a ten-foot cord, and the
center one to take the shank of the crank, C. The board is
laid against the shock, the spindle-shank is thrust through the
center hole, one end of the rope is passed through an outside
hole and fastened to the crank, as shown at C. The rope is
CORN-SHOCK BINDER. , jiuui J t-v. ii. j £ 4. j ^ i-i
passed around the shock, and the other end fastened to a hook
at the hole at the other end of the board. Then the crank is turned until the whole is
drawn together, the hay-band is fastened above, and, the crank being let go, the
spring of the shock holds all secure. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to say that the balls
of band should be dipped in water before carrying to the field. By placing them out
of the sun and wind, they will remain moist until used, and one ball may tie three or
four shocks, the cut end every time being held by the skewer passing through the ball.
XIII. Seed-corn.
Seed-corn that will germinate surely is indispensable. Have you carefully
selected at husking-time, or before, the soundest and most perfect ears, and attended
to their careful curing? If not, lose no time early in the spring in selecting the best
you have, again carefully sorting this over. From that you think is pretty sure to
grow, shell a small quantity from a number of ears selected as they run, mix all well
together, count out fifty grains, place them between folds of flannel cloth, kept con-
stantly moist and at a temperature of fifty-five to sixty degrees, not more. Corn
does not germinate at a temperature much below fifty degrees. Note the time it takes
to sprout. If it does so in seven or eight days it is good. Ascertain the number of
grains that come up promptly, and you can decide how much to drop in a hill. If
your corn proves bad, buy good seed, whatever may be the cost. You cannot afford
to risk uncertain seed. There are contingencies enough, even with the best seed.
Never neglect carefully to select and save seed-corn in the autumn.
XIV. Cost of a Corn Crop.
There is no crop that varies more in its cost than corn. Manure, rough land,
hand-hoeing and small fields are expensive. In the great corn region of the West the
118 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
cost is reduced to a minimum. Some years ago, while engaged extensively in general
farming and stock-feeding in Central Illinois, every crop was itemized and correctlykept.
Actual figures on a crop of corn from 1,225 acres were as follows. It must, however,
be remembered that the smaller the area the more it costs per acre. Nevertheless, the
smaller the field the greater the average yield. The field yielded a little over thirty-
nine bushels an acre, and the tillage was at the rate of sixty-five acres to the man
and team for cultivating. But the season was an exceptionally good one for working.
Here are the figures :
Fall plowing, S 600 00
275 bushels seed-corn @ 80c., 220 00
50 bushels seed-corn @ $1.50, 75 00
Manual labor, 1,958 13
Team labor, 1,174 25
■54,027 38
This brings the corn ready to husk. The husking cost :
1,470 days manual labor, . . . : $1,837 50
735 days team work, 918 75
Thus the corn cost in the crib, , $ii,773 63
The crop was 48,225 bushels. That portion not fed on the farm brought 42 ^c.
in the crib, making a total for 48,225 bushels of $20,495.63. Deduct from
this the cost of producing the crop, and the balance is $13,691 for the crop, or $11.09
per acre for the use of the land.
The men were all paid at the rate of $1.25 per day, and the teams were estimated
at the same price for each double team. Every individual item was correctly charged,
as plowing, harrowing, rolling, planting, cultivating, uncovering corn, etc., and there
was even a charge of $13.20 for cutting and pulling weeds. Looking at the matter
in another light, it will be seen that the whole expense of making the crop ready to
husk, for man and team, was, counting man and team at $2.50 per day, at the rate
of one and one-fifth days work per acre, or, in other words, counting the value of
seed-corn, the cost of raising an acre of corn was $3.29 per acre. The cost of
husking was $2.25 per acre, or, per bushel, nearly six cents; the whole cost of
raising and cribbing the corn was $5.54 per acre, and the corn cost, in the crib,
fifteen cents per bushel to raise, not counting ground rent. There is no reason why
it should ever cost more for labor, in any clean, rich soil, free from stumps,' stones,
or other obstructions. ,
A well-kept account book is always useful in enabling the farmer to tell exactly
what any crop has cost, but it is a curious fact that hardly one farmer in a dozen ever
keeps a record of the debit and credit on a farm. Book-keeping takes time, of
course, but without it the farmer never knows on what crops he is making or losing
money. A single book of, say, two hundred pages, with lines ruled for dollars and
cents on the right, and one line on the left for the date of each entry, will be sufficient
for most practical purposes.
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS.
119
XV. Varieties of Corn.
The well-defined species of corn, true to type, are comparatively few. The
varieties tolerably pure are many. The six principal species may be defined as
" Oregon corn," Figs. 1 and 2, in which each
grain is enveloped in a separate, husk; flint corn,
Fig. 20, with hard, rounded grains; horse-tooth
corn. Figs. 7, 13 and 19, with thin broad soft
grains, roughened and scaly at the top ; sweet or
sugar corn. Fig. 16, containing much gluten; rice
or Guinea corn (popping corn). Fig. 3, and
Tuscarora or flour corn. Fig. 5, the substance
of the kernel being peculiarly soft and farina-
ceous. The illustration shows twenty varieties,
giving the forms of the grains. These are: Figs.
1 and 2, Oregon or so-called wild corn; Fig. 3,
rice corn; Fig. 4, Jersey white flint; Fig. 5,
Tuscarora; Fig. 6, Ohio white flint; Fig. 7, Ken-
tucky white; Fig. 8, Virginia golden; Fig. 9,
King Philip; Fig. 10, Yankee or eight-rowed yel-
low; Fig. 11, Samassoit; Fig. 12, improved But-
ton; Fig. 13, Ohio dent; Fig. 14, small eight-
rowed yellow; Fig. 15, blood red; Fig. 16,
Mexican black; Fig. 17, Oregon shoe-peg; Fig.
18, Canada pop-corn (flint corn); Fig. 19, white
gourd-seal; Fig. 20, golden Sioux (very dwarf).
All the varieties of dent corn are probably
crosses from the species named. All dent corn is
either white, yellow — or rather orange — red and
speckled. Flint corn is white, yellow, dusky and
red. Sweet corn is white, cream-colored or blue-
black, but varieties of all the classes vary infinitely
between the colors named. The varieties of field
corn in best repute are either white or yellow.
Dent Corn. — One of the oldest varieties of
dent corn cultivated North is early dent, known
also as Reynolds, Murdock and ninety-day dent.
Varieties of this coi-n are knowia by many names.
They will ripen perfectly even in the latitude of Minnesota. Another variety, larger
than the above, the Hathaway or Michigan yellow dent, will ripen usually in one
hundred days. It ripens up to forty-three and one-half degrees north. The illustra-
tions on this page show the grain perfectly ; other cuts in this chapter show the ears
of the several varieties, longitudinally and sectionally.
VARIETIES OF INDIAN CORN.
lio
THE HOJIE AXU FAKM MANUAL.
MICHIGAX YELLOW DEXT.
is much used for table purposes
corn. It is the earliest dent corn known.
Of the mammoth varieties of white corn,
Parrish coi'n, is well known and liked in the
central corn zone. The illustration will show
its characteristics.
Blount's Prolific. — This is a white half
dent variety. Originated by A. E. Blount, in
Tennessee, who bred it especially to develop
the tendency to produce several ears on each
stalk. The result is that usually two, fre-
quentlj' six, and even eight ears are produced
on a stalk. The ears are about eight or nine
inches long, eight to ten rowed, uniform in
shape. Kernel white, hard, as broad as long,
closcl}' packed on the cob in straight rows.
It is adapted only to the middle and southern
latitudes. Stalks above the average height;
thcv sucker freely, hence the plant is well
adapted for ensilage and fodder jourposes.
Maryland Prolific. — This is a White dent variety.
Matctlless. — A White dent corn, adapted
to the Middle region and South. Originated by
selection from the so-called Mammoth dent, in
Pulaski county, Virginia. Ears about nine inches
long by two and a fourth inches in diameter ;
uniform in shape; fourteen to sixteen rowed.
Kernels five-eicfhths of an inch long and of the
' ' horse-tooth " ' shape ; hard and of excellent
texture, closel}- set upon the cob. Cob small for
so large an ear, and white.
Adams' Early {Burlington). — White dent.
Ear about eitrht inches long, two in diameter ;
twelve to fourteen rowed. Cob white, small.
Kernel white, deeper than broad. This variety
jy those who do not like the flavor of sweet
the improved AVhite dent, or
WHITE DEXT OE PARRISH COEN'.
Ears nine inches long
and upwards, two and one-fourth to two and one-half inches in diameter, slightly
taperinir, well filled at both ends. Cob medium size, white. This is an improvement
by selection from the ordinary Horse-tooth variet}' of the South. Kernel one-half
inch long, narrow and thin, hard, white and glass}', closely set upon the cob. A
popular variety in Maryland and Virginia. Adapted to middle and southern
sections, where it is principally grown for use upon the farm — wheat, cotton or
tobacco being the money crop.
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS.
121
BLUBIOTII "iELLOW DENT
twenty-four in number, and the
Southern Prolific — This h
Horse Tooth {Southern While and FeZ/ow;).— Dent, South. . The original type
of the large-cared dent varieties. The ears are
ten inches and upward in length, two and a half
in diameter, and nominally sixteen-rowed, but
varying from fourteen to thirtj'-twd. The ker-
nels are half-inch long and longer, broad and
thick, rather soft in texture. The cob is large;
color both red and white. This variety is ex-
tensively grown in the South, and is well adapted
for ensilage.
Among the better known of the improved va-
rieties of Mammoth Yellow Dent corn, adapted
to growth in the middle corn region of the United
States, are the Mammoth, or Chester County
Yellow Dent, large, prolific, rows sixteen to
stalks leafy, making desirable fodder.
a red and yellow dent varietj', sixteen-rowed,
adapted to the Aliddle region and South. It originated by selection and breeding for
twelve years on the Missouri Agricultural College Farm. The ears are ten inches long
and upwards, and a little over two inches in diameter; sixteen to eighteen rowed.
The kernels are five-eighths of an inch long, closely set upon the cob, narrow and
thick, dark to light red in color, yellow at the outer ends. Cob small and white.
Little Red Cob. — A white dent, eighteen-rowed variety. Ears seven to nine
inches long, two and a half inches through. Cob small and pale-red in color. Ker-
nels white, five-eighths of an inch long, thick and narrow, quite hard and heavy.
Stalk six feet high by one and a half inches through; very leafy and yielding a large
amount of fodder. It is largely cultivated in Georgia; is an excellent stock corn,
and adapted to the lower middle and southern corn-growing sections of the country.
North Star. — Another variety, adapted to the North; ripening in Soutlicrn
Minnesota and Dakota; is a red cob, twelve
to sixteen rowed; variety known as the
"North Star Yellow Dent," prolific and
ripening in one hundred days. The cut
shows its characteristics of cob and grain.
Flint Corn — The flint varieties of corn
are little grown in the West, except pretty
far north, and even there the newer, extra-
early varieties of dent corn are favorites.
East of the Alleghanies and in Canada, the
flint varieties are almost universally grown.
For meal, the flint corn is superior, and the
large round-grained varieties are used for hominy.
flint varieties are also said
122
THE HOIME AND FAR3I IMAXUAL.
to l>e weevil-proof : hut thi? i? not so, as all will testify who examined the foreign
samples of tlint eoru at the Centennial Exposition.
White Pearl or Hominy Corn. — This is the variety usually grown for homing'
and samj). It is also the best variety for making hulled eorn. The stalks are large
and tall, the grains pearly white and tiinty, ears nine inches and upward in length by
one and a half inches in diameter. It is a southern \'ariety, ripening always up to
forty degrees of latitude.
Yankee Corn. — The Early Eight-rowed Flint or Yan-
kee Corn may be rc^'arded as the t}"pe of the several varieties
of yellow flint corn. The improved yellow flint has a small
eob, a deep yellow grain, and among the earliest of any of the
varieties. Its characteristics are shown in the cut, natural
size.
Waushakum Corn. — This is without doubt one of the
best of eight-rowed flint varieties, and is strictly a pedigree
corn, oricrinatino- by selection, and bavins: been imiiroved bv
ElGHT-laiWEU FLINT ^ O . .^ "-
coKx. careful cultivation by Dr. E. L. bturtevant. of ]Massacnusett>,
well known throughout the country from his con-
tributions to practical, scientific agriculture. The
ear is perfect in shape : about nine inches long,
eight-rowed ; about forty-five kernels to the row ;
rows straight and even, full from tip to stem;
the ears uniform in size from end to end. The
kernels are compactly set upon the small cob,
are flinty, dense and heavy. The section of ear
shows its characteristics.
Silver White. — Of white flint varieties the
silver white flint, (U'iginated by II. E. Alvord. of WArsuAKUJi cukx.
New York, is also a pedigreed variety, exceed-
ingl}- early, hardy and prolific.
Following are brief descriptions of some
of the more reputable varieties of flint corn :
Compton's Early {Yellow Flint).—
Ten-rowed. Ears ten to twelve inches Ions,
well filled, often two on a stalk. Kernels
bright yellow, medium size. Stalk eiirht to
ten feet high.
Button ( Yellow Button). — Yellow Flint.
SILVER WHITE FLINT r<,i;N. g.^j,^ ni,^p ^o tcu iuchcs loug, tcu to twelve
rowed: rows close together: ears uniform, symmetrica], taperincr, well rilled at both
ends. Kernel as broad as deep, bright yellow color, flinty: of superior qualit\- for
meal. Cob above the averaire, white.
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS. 123
Early Canada {Canada Yellow). — Eight-rowed. 'Ear small, symmetrical,
seven to eight inches long, tapering from butt to tip ; rows separated into pairs at the
butt. Cob small, white. Kernel as broad as deep, compact, flinty, smooth, of a
deep yellow color; of superior quality for meal. Stalk five or six feet high, slender,
leaves not plentiful, bearing one or two ears near the ground. Matures very early.
The yield is light on account of the small size of the ear, but its extreme earliness
makes it very desirable for the more northern sections of the corn belt.
Improved ELing Philip. — Copper-colored Flint; eight-rowed. Ears ten to
twelve inches long, uniformly eight-rowed when pure. Cob below the average,
pinkish white. Kernel copper-red, or brown, varying to yellow. Kei'nel large,
somewhat broader than deep, smooth, glossy and hard. Stalk six feet high and
upwards. In favorable seasons ripens in about ninety days.
Longfellow ( Yellow Flint). — Eight^rowed. Ears ten inches long and upwards,
some of them fifteen inches ; one and one-half to one and three-quarter inches in
diameter; uniform, cylindrical shape, well filled at both ends. Cob small. Kernel
very large, broader than deep.
Red Blazed {Yellow Flint). — Blazed, or striped, with red. Ears large, well
filled at both ends. Eight-rowed; early.
Rural Thoroughbred Flint. — Dingy white Flint. Introduced by the Rural
New Yorker in 1882. Ears eight-rowed, ten incites -long, often fifteen, and occa-
sionally sixteen and seventeen inches, slightfy tapering. Cob large and white. The
kernels are broad and short, a dull white in color, hard and flinty. The stalks have a
habit of suckering to an unusual degree, making it of great value as a fodder plant.
But one plant is grown in a hill. The main stalks frequently bear two ears.
Sanford. — Dingy white Flint, eight-rowed. Ear eight to ten inches long, one
and one-half inch in diameter; slightly tapering; rows separated in pairs by the
rather large white cob; kernel broader than deep, hard. Stalks large and leafy.
XVI. Rice and Its Cultivation.
EiCE IS probably one of the earliest cultivated plants in tropical and sub-tropical
countries. It was already known in China three thousand years before Christ, and
in India it has been cultivated from time immemorial. The ancient Greeks and
Eomans were well acquainted with it. It is said to have been brought to Sicily by
the Arabians. It was introduced into Virginia in 1647 — probably the upland rice.
The true water rice {oryza sativa) is said to have been introduced into South Carolina
accidentally, by a vessel from Madagascar, which put into Charleston bay in 1694.
Four years after that, in 1698, sixty tons were shipped thence to England. In
Louisiana, its cultivation began in 1718. It is now cultivated in thirteen Southern
States, both swamp and upland varieties. Upland varieties have been cultivated as
far north as Missouri, Illinois, and even Iowa. In 1850, seven hundred pounds were
raised in the latter State. It is not to be supposed that upland rice can be raised
124
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
with profit in the North. The cultivation has always been experimental, like that of
cotton, and will always remain so, unless some varieties of the wild rice of the
WILD RICE OF THE NOUTHWEST. iZizania Aguatica.)
North (Zizania Aquatica) may perhaps be improved. Of this, three species are
common, in still-running water and ponds, as far north as Minnesota. These species
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS. 125
are Z. Aquatica, Z. Miliacia and Z. Fluitams. It is a true rice, as the engraving
of Z. Aquatica will show, which includes the inflorescence and grain.
The following description of this plant is from the reports of the Department of
Agriculture, at Washington: "The Sioux call it pshu, and the Chippewas
man-om-in. It is a constant .article of food with the northern Indians of the lakes
and rivers between the Mississippi and Lake Superior. This plant delights in mud
and water five to twenty feet deep. When ripe the slightest wind shakes off the
grains. After being gathered it is laid on scaffolds about four feet high, eight wide,
and twenty to fifty long, covered with reeds and grass, and a slow fire is maintained
beneath for thirty-six hours, so as to parch slightly the husk, that it may be removed
easily. Its beard is tougher than that of rye. To separate it from the chaff or
husk, a hole is made in the ground a foot wide and one deep, and lined with skins.
About a peck of rice is put in at a time; an Indian steps in, with a half jump, on
one foot, then on the other, until the husk is removed. After being cleaned the
grain is stored in bags. It is darker than the Carolina rice. The hull adheres
tightly, and is left on the grain, and gives the bread a dark color when cooked.
The husk is easily removed, after being exposed to heat. In Dakota the men gather
this grain, but all other grain the women collect. An acre of rice is nearly or quite
equal to an acre of wheat in nutriment. It is very palatable, when roasted, and
eaten dry."
Upland Bice. — The upland rice is cultivated precisely like oats, being usually
sown broadcast. It is more than probable, however, that a system of drilling and
gang cultivation, such as is practiced with the sugar beet, would render this industry
highly remunerative in the South, since it would not add more than five dollars per
acre to the cultivation, while it would raise the product, per acre, from ten to fifteen
bushels to thirty or forty and more bushels per acre.
XVII. True Water Bice or Commercial Rice.
The Carolinas, and other suitable rice districts south, are the best rice-producing
region of the world. The rice of Mississippi and other Gulf States has, however,
never equaled Carolina rice, raised on the alluvial lands on the brackish water system
of the State, when proper measures are taken to keep out salt water, which is fatal
to the crop. The cultivation is fully described in communications to the Department
in Washington, from which we condense. The plan on the Savannah river is described
in the following article :
XVIII. Cultivation of Rice in Carolina.
Main canals having sluices at their mouths are dug from the river to the interior
about twenty feet in width; and, as they very frequently extend across the whole
breadth of the swamp, they are more than three miles in length. The rice plantations
are subdivided into fields of about twenty acres each. The fields have embankments
raised around them, with sluices communicating with the main canal, that they may
126 THE HOME AND FAKM MAJSTUAL.
be laid dry or under water separately, according as it may be required. Open ditches
are dug over the grounds for the purpose of allowing the water to be more easily put
on or drawn off.
In all cases the water is admitted to the fields as soon as the seed is sown, and
when the young shoot appears above ground, the water, is drawn off. In the course
of a week the crop usually receives another watering, which lasts from ten to thirty
days, according to the progress the vegetation makes. This watez'ing is chiefly useful
in killing the land weeds that make their appearance as soon as the ground becomes dry.
But, on the other hand, when the field is under water, aquatic weeds, in their turn,
grow up rapidly, and to check their growth the field is once more laid dry, and the
crop is then twice hand-hoed.
By the first of July the rice is well advanced, and water is again admitted and
allowed to remain on the fields until the crop is ripe. This usually takes place from
the first to the tenth of September, and the water is drawn off the day before the
erop is to be reaped, or long enough to dry the land for this operation.
Large Capital Necessary. — Large capital is necessary in the cultivation of
rice, as well as good judgment, especially on tidal lands. The banks must be kept in
order, the drains and canals must be kept clear, and the sluices and valves must always
be in repair. The rice-swamps also are unhealthy, and it is difficult to get labor when
other work can be had; hence,. higher prices must be paid. Nevertheless, properly
managed, the crop is remunerative, and rice plantations used to be the highest-priced
lands in the South, — the best lands lying between twenty-nine and thirty-five degrees
north latitude. The best variety is that known as Golden or Carolina rice.
XIX. Management of Rice Fields.
The authority previously quoted describes the management as follows. It is the
most concise and comprehensive we have seen: Rice plantations are located above
the junction of salt and fresh water, from the fact that rice, being an aquatic
plant, requires a vast amount of fresh water during its growth ; salt water being fatal
to it at all stages. These swamps are usually reclaimed by means of banks or levees,
which are made high and strong enoiigh. to bar out the river. Smaller embankments,
called check banks, subdivide that portion of the plantation lying between the main
river embankment and the high land, into squares or fields, generally from fifteen to
twenty acres in area. These squares are all subdivided again into beds or lands,
of twenty-five or thirty feet width, by a system of main ditches and quarter-
drains. Canals from twelve to thirty feet wide and four or five feet deep, are some-
times cut from the river embankment, through the center of the plantation, to the
high land, for the purpose of introducing or draining off the water to or from those
fields situated far back from the river.
Flood-gates. — Flood-gates or trunks having doors at both ends are buried in
the embankments on the river, as well as in the canal embankments and the check
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS. 127
banks, those at the outlet of canals being so constructed as to permit the flat-boats to
pass into the river. By means of these flood-gates or trunks the whole system of
irrigation is carried on under the complete control of the planter, and the lands are
flooded or drained at will. The canals and ditches being all carefully cleaned out,
down to the hard bottom, the banks neatly trimmed and free of leaks — the flood-
gates and trunks all water-tight, either to hold out or hold in water — the planter com-
mences his operations, as early in the winter as possible, by plowing.
These lands, being yearly enriched by alluvial deposits from the river, do not
require deep plowing, four or five inches being generally sufficient to furnish a good seed-
bed, and on account of the numerous ditches subdividing the fields, a single mule plow
is always preferable. When lands are plowed early in the winter and nicely shingled,
it is of very great advantage to put in a shallow flow of water, and suddenly draw it
off, in severe weather, for the benefit of freezing the furrow slices. But it is not a
good practice to flood deep, as the weight of water packs the land, which becomes
run together by the action of the waves, and renders good harrowing afterward an
impossibility.
XX. Cultivating the Crop.
Harrowing is usually begun only a few days previous to planting, in order that
the seed-bed may be as fresh as possible, to encourage germination, and by its pliancy,
permit the young roots to expand rapidly and take good hold on the soil, in order
that the plant may resist the birds and a tendency to float. The operation of
harrowing is one of the most important to the crop, and no consideration should
induce the planter to slight it, as this is the opportunity afforded him for killing his
potent and pernicious enemy — grass — the great obstacle all the summer-time. By
breaking up every clod now, and exposing its roots and seeds to the action of the sun,
half the battle is won. Immediately after the harrow comes the crusher, which
implement is not abandoned until the field is reduced to garden tilth.
Seed and Seeding. — ^About the tenth or fifteenth of March, up to the tenth or
fifteenth of May, the process of drilling is carried on, seeding from two and a half to
three bushels of clean seed per acre. At this Juncture two antagonistic systems are
encountered, one known as covered rice and the other as open-trench rice. Both
have their advocates. The first system, or covered rice, is where the grain is covered
up in the soil two or three inches deep, as fast as it is drilled in, which thus protects
it from birds, floating away, etc. The other, open-tx'ench, consists in leaving the rice
entirely uncovered in the drill, and taking the risks alluded to, in order to save time
and labor, the grain being soaked in thick clay water before seeding, to hold it to the
ground.
The seed being deposited, the flood-gates are immediately opened, and, if it be
covered rice, and the ground pretty moist, the water is taken in as rapidly as the
capacity of the gates may afford; and when it has attained a depth of twelve or
eighteen inches, ot deeper, if the check banks can bear it, the water from the river is
128 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
then shut off, and the inside gate is closed, to hold in what water is on the field. The
trash now rapidly rises and floats toward the banks, and it must be immediately
hauled up with rakes, before it settles down on the rice. In the course of a few days
the seed is carefully examined, and as soon as the germ or pip appears the water is
drawn off the field to the bottom of the ditches, and kept out until the rice has two
leaves.
XXL Flooding the Crop.
If the grain is planted by the open-trench system, as soon as the seeding is done,
the water is led into the field gradually, until the land sobs and the rice sticks, then it is
flooded slowly until the previously mentioned depth is attained; the water is then held
until the rice has good roots, or begins to float, and is then drawn off carefully. Here
all difference in the culture ceases. The rice having two leaves — or earlier, if the
field is inclined to be grassy — the water is again let in to the same depth as before,
completely submerging the plants, and is held to this gauge from seven to ten days,
the planter being governed by the weather. If warm, seven; if cool, ten days.
Then a lead is put in the gate, and the water let off gradually, until a general verdure
is seen floating all over the field. At this point the water is stopped, and a mark
set upon the gate as a gauge-mark. To this gauge the water is rigidly held for sixty
or sixty-five days from the day it first came on the field. This flow, when properly
managed, effectually destroys all tendency to grass, and promotes a vigorous growth
of rice.
It sometimes happens that, during this flow, the crop takes a check and stops
growing. In this event to take off the water is fatal, as it will produce foxed rice;
it must be held firmly to the gauge, and in a few days the plant will throw out new
roots and go on growing. If the maggot attack it in this flow the water is drawn off
for a day or two and replaced. And where water is abundant and easily handled,
the maggot can generally be avoided by beginning, about the thirtieth day, to change
the water once a week. To do so skillfully, both gates must be simultaneously
opened at the young flood. The stale water wiU thus rush out and fresh water come
immediately back with the rising tide to float the rice leaves and prevent them sticking
to the ground in their fall.
The Rice Maggot. — If the maggot gets serious the field has to be dried imme-
diately and thoroughly. The maggot is a tiny white worm, which is generated by
stale water, and attacks the roots of the plant, causing serious injury to the crop.
The presence of the maggot may always be suspected by the stiff and unthrifty
appearance of the field. If the land is fertile at the end of the sixty-day flow, it
will be found, on drawing off the water, that the rice has attained a vigorous growth
of about three feet, and is well stocked with tillers, while also, if the field is level,
and the harrowing and pulverizing was thoroughly attended to before planting, no
grass will be seen ; nothing but rice and the clean soil beneath.
The field is kept dry now for about fifteen or twenty days, or until the land dries
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS. 129
off nicely and the rice takes on its second growth. And if there be no grass it
ought not to be disturbed -with the hoe, as the hands, at this stage, often do more
harm than good. This, however, does not apply to cat-tails and volunteers, which
should, of course, be carefully pulled up by the roots, and sheafed and carried to
the banks, to be disposed of by the hot sun. At the end of fifteen or twenty days,
as above mentioned, the water is returned to the field as deej) as the rice and banks
can bear, never, however, topping the fork of the former. This water, where circum-
stances permit, is changed every week or two, by letting it off on one tide and taking
it back on the next, and increasing the gauge with the growth of the rice.
XXII. Harvesting' and Threshing.
When the heads of the rice are well filled and the last few grains at the bottom
are in the dough state, it is fit to cut, and as little delay is permitted as possible, as the
rice now over-ripens very rapidly, and shatters in proportion during the harvest. The
water may be drawn off the field from three to five days before cutting the grain, and
the land will be in better condition for harvesting. .The rice is cut from twelve to
eighteen inches from the ground, depending on its growth, usually from four to six
feet high, and the gavels laid evenly and thinly upon the stubble, for the purpose of
curing and permitting the air to circulate beneath it. Twenty-four hours in good
weather is usually required to cure the straw, and the binding does not commence
before this period, and never while the dew is on the straw. It is safer always to cut
from sunrise to twelve o'clock, and bind the previous day's cutting from that hour to
sunset. As soon as bound the rice is shocked up, and at the end of a week taken to
the yard and stacked in ricks, thirty feet long, eight feet wide, and ten feet high. A
stake, four feet long, is put into the rick at each end for daily examination, and as
long as the stake does not become too hot at its point to be held by the hand, when
suddenly drawn out, the rick is not to be interfered with, otherwise it is to be pulled
down, aired, and re-stacked.
Threshing. — So soon as the temporary heat is over the grain is fit for the
thresher. As soon as the rice is taken from the field attention is immediately given
to sprouting volunteer and shattered rice, providing the crop has not been allowed to
remain in the field for an indefinite period beyond the week alluded to above. This is
best accomplished by instantly flooding the field quite shallow, so as to promote fermen-
tation, and drying it again eveiy twelve or fifteen days, for a day or two at a time. This
process is continued until freezing weather sets in, and if the season has not been
remarkably cool it will be found that most of this grain is destroyed. Threshing is
performed by steam power. The main building is commonly built on a brick founda-
tion, about sixty feet long by forty feet wide, having two stories and an attic; the
first story being fourteen and the second twelve feet high, with what is called by work-
men a square roof. At the side of this building is the engine-house and boiler-room ;
and in front of the main building, a little distance off, is the feeding-room, which is
connected with the second story of the same by a covered way which protects the
9
130 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
feeding cloth. In the second story is placed the thresher. The rice is brought in
sheaves from the ricks to the feed-room, where hands are stationed for the purpose
of placing it on the feed-cloth in close succession. The revolutions of the cloth thus
keep a continuous stream of grain flowing into the cylinder, which in turn is relieved
by the ralces seizing the straw, and after tossing out the grain they throw it out of
a window in the rear into wagons below, kept ready to receive and carry it away.
A good engine, with machinery, will thresh and clean, ready for market, one thousand
bushels of rice per day.
XXIII.. Hulling for Market.
The rice as it comes from the machine is called rough rice. Twenty-five
bushels. of good, well-cleaned, rough rice, weighing forty-five pounds per bushel,
will make a tierce of six hundred pounds of clean rice fit for the market. The
cleaning is usually done at city mills that are fitted for the purpose. The rough
rice is first carried between very heavy stones, running at a high speed, which
partially removes the rough integument, or hull chaff. This chaff is passed out of
the building by spouts,, and the grain by similar means conveyed into the mortars,
where it is beat or pounded for a certain length of time by the alternate rising and
falling of very heavy pestles, shod with iron. These are operated by a revolving
cylinder, armed with powerful levers, which, passing into a long opening in the
pestle, about fifteen feet in length, raise it and let it fall suddenly into the mortars
below. From the mortars, elevators take the rice to the fans, which separate the
grain from the hulls. Thence it goes through other fans that divide it into three
qualities, known as whole rice, middling rice, and small rice. The grain is finally
passed through a polishing screen, lined with gauze wire and sheepskins, which
revolve vertically at great velocity, giving it the pearly whiteness in which it appears
in commerce. From the screen it falls immediately below into a tierce, which is
kept slowly rotating, and struck on two sides with heavy hammers, all the time it is
being filled, for the purpose of obtaining its greatest capacity. The tierce, as soon
as full, is removed and coopered ready for market.
Good strong land, well rhanaged, will average from forty to fifty bushels of
rough rice — ten to. twelve hundred pounds of clean-hulled rice — per acre. The
rough rice averages one dollar per bushel of forty-five pounds.
XXIV. Rice in the Mississippi Delta.
In the delta lands of the Mississippi the cultivation of rice is somewhat different
from that of the tide lands of the Atlantic coast, and much less elaborate. The
Mississippi usually begins to swell in the delta region about the end of February, and
continues to rise until the first of June, from which time it again gradually subsides.
It is thus in flood during the hot season. A ditch, having a sluice at its mouth, is dug
from the river toward the swamp. The land immediately behind the levee being the
highest, is cropped with Indian corn and i^otatoes; but at a little distance from the
INDIAN CORN, RICE, AND SPECIAL CROPS. 131
river, where the land is lower and can be flooded, it is laid out in narrow rice-fields,
parallel to the river, inclining off from the river's edge. The narrow strips are
banked all around, so that they can be laid under water after the rice is sown. The
land is plowed in March, and shortly afterward it is sowed and harrowed. As soon
as the young plants appear above ground, the water is admitted for the purpose of
keeping the weeds in check. The crop grows rapidly, and the depth of the water is
gradually increased, so as to keep the tops of the plants just above the surface.
There is a constant current of water flowing from the river into the fields and over
the swamp, so that there is no stagnation, and the fields are not laid dry until the crop
is ready to cut. The only labor that is bestowed in the cultivation of the crop is to
pull up by hand the weeds, which are mostly grasses ; and this operation is effected
by men going to the fields knee-deep in water. The produce varies from thirty to
sixty bushels per acre.
XXV. Some Special Crops.
Flax, millet, Hungarian grass and canary-grass are largely cultivated in some
sections for thfe seed. The only difference in the preparation of the soil from that for
the cereals, is that the greatest care must be taken to bring the land into the highest
possible tilth for sowing. Flax is sown at the rate of three pecks to one and a half
bushels per acre, just before corn-planting time. Millet, Hungarian and canary-seed
must not be sown until corn is well up and the nights warm, since it is easily checked
by cold. Millet and Hungarian seed are sown at the rate of one-half bushel to three
pecks, and canary-seed at the rate of three pecks to one bushel per acre. When fully
ripe it may be cut and stacked, loose, for threshing, or harvested by binding and
shocking. The cultivation of the more important special crops will be treated of in
succeeding chapters.
CHAPTER III.
MBADO"W AND PASTURE GRASSES.
r
THE VALUE OF GRASS. H. WHAT IS GEASS? in. HOW TO KXOW GRASS. IV. TESTING THE
VALUE OF SPECIES. V. THE VALUE OP ACCURATE KNOWLEDGE. VI. WELL-KNOWN CULTI-
VATED GRASSES. Vn. GRASSES FOR HAT AND PASTURE. ^VIU. A LIST OF GOOD GRASSES.
IX. VALUABLE NATIVE WESTERN GRASSES. ^X. DISAPPEARANCE OF NATIVE GRASSES. XI.
VALUABLE INTRODUCED GRASSES, SOUTH. ^XIL BERMUDA GRASS. ^XIII. GUINEA GRASS.
XIV. BROME OR RESCUE GRASS. XV. SEEDING MEADOWS. XVI. THE ALPHABET OF AGRICUL-
TURE. ^XVU. SOWING FOR HAT AND FOR PASTURE. ^XVHI. THE CELEBRATED WOBURN EX-
PERIMENTS. XIX. A SUMMART OF MEADOW GRASSES. XX. ABOUT PASTURES. XXI. GENERA,
SPECIES AND VARIETIES. XXH. FAVORITE PASTURE GRASSES. XXUI. BENT GRASSES. XXIV.
ORCHARD GRASS. XXV. GRASSES FOR VARIOUS REGIONS. XXVI. CLOVER IN ITS RELATION
TO HUSBANDRT. XXVII. THE SEED CROP. XXVIII. VALUABLE VARIETIES OF CLOVER. ^XXIX.
DUTCH, OR WHITE, CLOVER. XXX. ALSIKE, OR SWEDISH CLOVER. XXXL CLOVERS FOR THE
SOUTH— ALFALFA. ^XXXIL JAPAN CLOVER. XXXIIL MEXICAN CLOVER. XXXTV. , IMPORTANCE
OP THE PULSE FAMILT.r — XXXV. INTERCHANGE OF GRASSES BETWEEN NATIONS.
I. The Value of Grass.
JIHE grass crop of the United States has a greater real value than any other one
crop raised. The corn crop represents a greater apparent money value, and so
does the wheat crop, the corn crop for 1881 having a money value of $759,482,170,
and the wheat crop $456,880,427, while the hay crop was estimated at only
$415,131,366. But the hay harvest is comparatively a small portion of the grass crop.
In the average, hay is fed to stock in this country scarcely four months in the year,
even allowing for horses and mules in the cities eating hay all the year round. On
the other hand we see immense grazing areas, and millions of live-stock which subsist
and grow fat throughout the whole year on grass, which they gather for themselves.
Besides, hay does not form more than half the food of farm stock during the winter
months. On the whole, therefore, it is safe to say that the pastures and meadows of
the country undoubtedly represent four times the value of the hay crop. This would
make $1,660,525,464 yearly, a sum greater than the combined values of the corn,
wheat, rye, oats, barley and buckwheat crops by $189,568,261, the crops of the cereals
named being computed for 1881 at $1,470,957,200. The cry used to be, "Cotton is
king." Later it was, "Corn is king." Let us not forget that grass is king and
always will be.
II. What is Grass?
It is found wherever other vegetation exists, from the jDolar regions to the
equator. It is found growing in the crevices of inaccessible mountain cliffs, and in
the most arid plains and watery marshes. But its true home is wherever life is most
congenial to man. There it covers the soil with a cool mantle of green, giving of its
[1321
Diagram showing Areas and Values of Indian Corn, Wheat
AND other Cereal Grains of the United States;
ALSO Hay and Cotton.
(OFFICIAL.)
Products
Wheat
Hay
Cotton
Other Cereal Oraius
Quantity Prcduced
383,880,090
36,135,0114
5,400,000
487,N:M,4aO
MEADOW AND PAt^TURE GKASSES. 133
wealth to the husbandman with the least outlay of expense. A good grass country
is a fertile one.
In its oitlinarv meaning, as used in the foregoing article, irrass is sinuilv the
herbage eaten by stock. By a broader scicntilic classification, the grass family
includes all the great food grains — t\ll the genera of plants, whose seeds not only
furnish the most important portion of the direct sustenance of the human famil}', but
whose herbage feeds all the animals used as food for man. This \ast order of plants
contains, according to the late Dr. Darlington, some two hundred and thii'ty genera,
and not less than three thousand species. Of these the Poa sub-family, the Phalaris
sub-tribe, and the Panicum sub-tribe are most important in agriculture. The first
contains wheat [Triticum). rye (^Secale), barley {Hordeum), oats (Arena), rice
(0»7/~rt), and the largest number of the meadow and pasture grasses; tlie PJiaian's
sub-tribe contains that grass of doubtful value, s\\"eet-scented vernal grass (Anthox-
anthvm). and canary-grass (Phalarif): the Panicimi sub-tribe gives us Indian Corn
(Zea), sug:vr-cane {Saccfiamm), sorghum, and many others, among them the famous
Gama gitiss (Tripsacum). the fox-tail grass [Alopeciii-us) , and the panic grasses
(Panicum).
American Vaxieties. — ^Few countries are richer in natural grasses than the
United States, yet we have compai-atively few varieties in general cultivation.
England hjis two hundred ^ arieties of grass in cultivation : the United States less than
twenty ireuerally disseminated. Yet we have about six hundred species native to our
soil. Why have we so few cultivated varieties? We have depended upon England
for the trial grasses. England is a moist, cool country ; the United States compai-a-
tively a dry, hot one, in its summer temperatui-e. Hence the mistake in adopting
English varieties that flourish under the continual dripping of rain and a compara-
tively cool atmosphere. Yet two of the most valuable of so-called English grasses.
one a most valuable hay grass (timothy), the other one of the most valuable for hay
and pasture (orchai-d irrass). are distiuctiA ely and truly native American grasses.
m. How to Know Grass.
The following description of grass, by Professor W. J. Beal, of the Michigan
Agricultural College, a most accomplished botanist, is concise and exact. As a first
lesson in botany Prof. Beal says : "Take in }'our hand a sti-aight stalk of Indian corn
— for this is a true grass. The leaves are on the alternate sides of the stem, one at
each solid joint, making two i-anks or rows from top to bottom. As you look at a
straight stem of grass, the leaves may appear to you right and left., or they may
appear on the side of the stem next to j^ou and away from you. The leaves ha\e no
teeth or notches along their edges. The,y can be stripped into many fibrous threads.
i. e., the veins are nearly parallel with each other. Observe fiu'ther that the lower
part of each leaf forms a sheath which surrounds the stem. This sheath may overlap.
but never grows fast to the stem, except at the joint, nor does it close opposite the
134
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
main part of the leaf so as to form a tight tube. It is naturally split down to the
joint, and may be uni-olled hke a scroll without tearing away part of it. In botany, it
does not generally do to put very much stress upon the structure of the leaves, but in
this case it is of much importance.
Bearing Flowers. — "AH grasses in then* healthy condition bear flowers at
some time of their hfe. The plan of the flowers is well illustrated by a head of
chess, or rye, or wheat, or June-grass. Usually two or more flowers (sometimes
one) are included within two short leaf -like bodies called glumes. Each perfect
flower has from one to six (usually three) stamens, with anthers attached by a point
(versatile). Outside the stamens are usually two small, green, leaf -like bodies called
palets, one of which has two ribs, with a thin strip uniting them. In the center of
the flower is never more than one pistil, making a fruit which is called a grain. The
embryo, or germ of the plant, is just at one end, on the side,
and is the part first eaten out by mice and squirrels in Indian
corn. This is by no means all that applies to the botany of
grasses, but enough for our present purpose.
The Corn Flower. — "In Indian corn the flowers are of two
kinds, each incomplete in itself. On the tip of the stalk thp
branching tassel produces an abundance of fine dust called pollen.
On the side of the stalk are one or more short branches, covered
with a cluster of leaves, from the top of which extend a large-
number of slender threads. The branches become the ears, the
leaves about them the husks; the threads are often called silk.
One of these long delicate threads runs down to each one of the
embryo kernels of corn. That each may become a kernel, it is
first necessary that a grain of pollen from the tassel should fall
upon the silk. Hence it grows or thrusts out (the pollen does)
a very delicate prolongation aU the way down to the young
kernel."
No person, after mastering these three paragraphs, can be
deceived in the examination of any plant to determine whether it
is a true grass or not. The final study of each species is of less
consequence to the practical farmer. Few botanists understand
them fully. The study is difficult from the minuteness of the
organs, and the species and varieties are interminable and difficult
to master.
Grasses Illustrated. — This chapter is fully illustrated
with exact representations of the more valuable grasses, including
root, stalk, leaf and blossom or seed-head. For readers who may be interested in
botany we also give full-page illustrations, enlarged, of the inflorescence of many
grasses. The scientific names alone are given. Those treated of especially will also
have the common name appended when known.
GRASSES AND CLOVER.
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES. 135
Varieties are produced by the pollen of one falling upon another. If it were
not for the prepotency of certain species in fertilization, inextricable confusion would
ensue. Hence, in artificial fertilization the utmost care is used to ensure cross-
fertilization. ( See Artificial Cross-Fertilization, Chapter IV., Section XIX., Part I.)
Flowering Illustrated. — Eeferring to the full-page plates showing sections
of the seed-heads and single flowers of a large number of grasses, any person can
identify a grass by dissecting the flower and comjaaring it with the illustrations until
it is found. Then, if you wish to find its common English name, look in the lists of
grasses given on pages 156 and 157. It must be remembered, however, that many of
our native grasses have no English name. This is especially true of the varieties now
lately discovered. When the signs ? and % are affixed it shows that the plant has
the male organs distinct from the female organs. As a rule, however, in the grasses,
b*th organs are contained in the same blossom. Buffalo grass (Suchloa) shows the
departure from this rule. Hemp and spinach have separate and distinct sexes. That
is, there are distinctively male and female^ plants, each sex having its appropriate
organs on its distinctive plants.- [See pages 136 — 141. j
IV. Testing the Value of Species.
Every progressive farmer should have an experimental plat of ground on which
to test the qualities of different kinds of seed, and their adaptability to the soil and
climate of his farm. Some of the agricultural colleges are adopting this plan, thus
greatly simplifying the task of the farmers in this respect. The farmer's experiments
should be conducted as follows :
Experimental Patches. — Sow a patch with the experimental seed, here and
there, in the field when it is being seeded down, being careful to stake and register
the places so sown. Be careful that strictly pasture grasses be not sown with meadow
grasses, and vice versa. Timothy, for instance, is a meadow or hay grass, and one
of the best we have ; as a pasture grass, it is one of the poorest, if for no other
reason than that it forms a bulb at the surface of the earth. Hence it will neither
stand close feeding, close cutting, nor tramping. Blue-grass is the most valuable pas-
ture grass we have where the soil is adapted to it. It forms a firm, smooth, compact
sod, starts early in the spring, and grows late in autumn, furnishing the most valuable
late autumn and early winter pasture, and kindly bears close feeding. It is not,
however, a meadow or hay grass. Clover, on the other hand, is a good pasture
plant, and a good meadow plant; sown alone it is one of the most valuable known as
pasture for swine. In all other cases, however, it should form a mixture with the
true grasses.
136
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL
FLOWERING ll.LUSTKATEU. See pii^'e 1:!.5.
JIEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES.
i;i7
FLOWKHINU ILLUSTitATED. Sc-e lia-e 135.
13.S
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
FLOWEPJNG ILLUSTRATED. St-e page 135.
MEADOW AND PASTURE GEASSES.
i;i!i
HOLCUS LA NAT US
13
POA ALSODBS
HORDEUM PHKTENSE
15
phuag.mttes
communis.
ERABROSTIS POABOIDES
22
LOUUM PERENNE
Ely M US ST Rl AT US AHISTIDA PUHPURACCA
DraiPli/froa jfa/i/rf iy Cm Itfarx.
FLOWERING ILLUsTitATIJD. See page 1:;5.
140
THE HOME AXD FAR:*! MANUAL.
MUHLENBERG/ A GLOMERA T/l
FLOWElllXc; ILLUSTRATED. See pniiU 1:!5.
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES.
141
SPDROBOLUS INDICUS
n
PDA PR AT ENS IS
MDHLEHRBmiA OIFFDSA
AGROSr/S EIXARATA
18
TRICUSPIS SESLEHOIDES
II
LEPTOCHLOA MUCRONATA
ON I OLA L ATI FOLIA
16
POA SEROTINA.
PASPALVM LAEVE
III
? " \
SETARIASETOSA
DRAVINFROIAmimESV GEO KP.RX.
FLOWERING ILLUSTRATED. See page 1:55,
142 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
V. The Value of Accurate EZnowledge.
A BETTER test than that given in Section IV, would be to set apart a plat divided
into squares of say, ten feet. Upon these squares the several grasses to be experi-
mented with may be sown, and a record of the relative value of each may be arrived
at. Where a certain kind of soil, as moist or dry, strong clay, loam or sand is
designated for a given variety, such soil may then l^e selected for trial, but, as a rule,
those varieties that are recommended as doing well on a diversity of soils will be the
most valuable. Lists of these, and also well-known varieties adapted to particular
soils, will be given farther on.
Perhaps the reader will reply. What is the value of all this? Anybody knows
grass. Ah! Do they? Very few, even of farmers, do. Nine-tenths of farmers
would call clover and the other trefoils, grass, but they would not call the cereal
grains, sorghum, sugar-cane and Indian corn, grass. A technical error like this does
not cost them money. That they do not know the number of our valuable native
grasses, and their relative adaptability to soils, and their relative value for pasture
and hay, does cost them money — lots of it !
It is a great mistake to suppose a grass to be economically valuable for pasture
because it is so for hay, and vice versa. The local names of the grasses are also often
badly mixed. Timothy is called herds-grass in the New England States and in
Michigan, and red-top is called herds-grass in Pennsylvania. In Great Britain,
Timothy is called cat's-tail grass, a specific and descriptive name. The same con-
fusion of names is true of many grasses distinctively valuable in the South. Hence,
we shall give the specific name — known to all seedsmen — ^in parenthesis, in treating
of the grasses.
VI. Well-known Cultivated Grasses.
The economical value of a species consists of, 1, its adaptability to a climate;
2, its adaptation to the soil; 3, its feeding qualities, and 4, its productiveness.
Grasses for Dry Soils. — ^Many grasses of the first value in the cool and
moist climate of England, are greatly lessened in value in the dryer summer climate
of the New England States, and this disability becomes greater as we proceed west.
For the reason that Timothy grass {Phleum praiense) will stand drought and heat
comparatively well, and also the extreme cold of our winters, it has. become the great
hay grass of the northern portion of the United States, and especially of the North-
west. It also stands well on nearly all soils except dry, gravelly ones. The same is
true of the Blue-grass of Kentucky (Poa pratensis) , and the Blue-grass of the North
(P. compressa). Eough meadow grass {P. trivialis), and Fowl meadow grass (Poa
serotina) are better adapted to moist meadows; and also all the poa family, as well
as Orchard grass ( Dactylis glomerata), are not averse to partial shade in hot summer
climates. ,
Grasses for Moist Soils. — ^Thebent grasses or Eed-top (agrostis), and Meadow
Foxtail (Alopecurus pratensis), are especially valuable on moist, rather, open soils,
MEADOW AMD PASTURE GRASSES.
143
but it is incorrect to suppose that any valuable grass is natural to a wet soil. No
valuable grass ever grew naturally on a permanently wet soil. This is another of the
things that the farmer must disabuse himself of. He must distinguish between
wetness and moisture. The first means saturation with water; the other, saturation
with the vapor of moisture — two very different things. A well-drained soil may be
moist; it should never be wet.
VII. Grasses for Hay and Pasture.
In the North, Timothy and Red clover must form a large proportion of all the
meadow (mowing) grasses raised. Timothy is in no sense a pasture grass, since
tramping and close grazing destroy its bjilb, which
is situated just at the surface of the soil. So
does very close early mowing. In the United
States pasturing usually follows mowing. That is,
after a meadow has been mowed for one or two
or three years, it is then often grazed until again
ready to be broken up. Herein lies the value of
a variety of grasses in seeding. Not only will a
greater harvest of hay be given, but in pasturing,
as the Timothy is killed and the clover dies, the
other grasses sown will take their place. Hence
short descriptions of some of the best should be
given, with soils adapted to their growth. Of
Timothy — a better name would be Cat's-tail —
nothing more need be said. It is known and
universally cultivated all over Canada and the
United States, except in the South, where it is
not adapted to the climate.
VIII. A List of Good Grasses.
The following list should be good in all
average soils, and, except Timothy, are all good
pasture as well as meadow grasses :
Bent grasses — Eed-top (Agrostis vulgaris);
upright bent grass (A. stricta).
Fescue grasses — Meadow fescue (F. pratensis) ; hard fescue {F. duriuscula);
sheep fescue {F. ovina); purple fescue {F. rubra); spiked fescue {F. loliacea).
Foxtail — Meadow Foxtail (Alopecurus pratensis) .
Rye grass — ^Perennial Rye grass (LoUumperenne).
Cocks-foot grass — Orchard grass (Dactylis glomerata) .
Timothy or Cat's-tail grass — {Phleum pratense) .
Poa grasses — Rough meadow grass {Poa trivialis) ; Fowl meadow grass — (P.
serqtina ) .
TIMOTHY
144
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Their Qualities. — The list might be largely increased, but the idea of this
work is always to keep within the bounds of
practical experience. Of the grasses named, the
Bent grasses make good grazing on arable soils,
stiffening the sod. They are, in fact, better
grazing than hay-grasses. Some of the fescues,
notably Sheep's fescue, is native to the Eocky
Mountain region. Meadow Foxtail is a native
grass, and an excellent grass. Rye-grass is not
always hardy until well established, but should be
a good grass within 38° to 41° north latitude.
Orchard-grass is a native, and very valuable on
good loams or sandy soils. The two poas named
are also natives ; the latter being a common wild-
grass in the West, on bottom lands, and even forms a considerable percentage of
the native grasses in the Rocky Mountain valleys.
THE PROPEE FORM OF STACK.
IX. Valuable Native Western Grasses.
An immense number of species of native grasses have been catalogued for the
Government by the various military and scientific expeditions sent out from tihie to
time. Many of these have not yet received English names, as some Brown, Gama,
Bunch, Buffalo grasses, etc. Here, again, confusion comes in. Sheep's fescue is
called Bunch grass, so are some of the Gama grasses. The following table, gathered
from the large number of varieties natural to the far West, will explain itself. [See
plates of grasses.]
SPECIES.
10,
11.
12.
Broom grass — (Andropogon fureatus), .... . . ... Per cent.
Broom sedge — (Andropogon scoparius), -• "
Indian grass — (Sorghum nutans), •• "
Drop seed — (Sporobolus heterolepis), •'
Buffalo grass — (Suchloe dactyloides), " "
'Mesquitgvi\ss—(Boutelouaoligostachya), •'
Cord grass — (Spartina cynosuroides), •'
Fescue — (Festuca ovina), . "
Fescue — (Festuca macrostnchya), •' "
Kalm's, Brome — (Bromus Kalmii), . . ... ... .^ ^^
Fowl meadow — (Poa serotina), •' "
Feather grass — (Stipa viridtda), ■ . " '•
Missouri
ROCKV
RrvEU
MOCNTAIN
Ekgion.
Region.
40
16
■20
10
•20
12
12
1
5
5
10
2
2
20
n
8
S
6
The reader, by reference to the plates of dissections of grasses, will find 1, 2, 3,
5 and 11 under their scientific names, as given in the table.
Where Pound. — In the above list it will be seen that 1,2,3 and 4 comprise
,the bulk of the grasses of the Missouri River region ; and 1, 2, 3, 4,6,8, 10, 11 and 12
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES.
145
of the Rocky Mountain region. The first three, and the last, are native to the whole
prairie, or the bottom-land region of the West; the first three comprising the bulk of
the wild-hay cut. None of them, however, seed abundantly, except in moist seasons.
No. 9 is an annual species and one of the bunch grasses of the mountain region.
Buffalo Grass. — No. 5 is the famous or
true Buffalo grass, and maybe recognized at once
by its low, dense, tufted growth ; also, by its sto-
lons, from which it spreads rapidly. It seldom
if ever attains to the height of over two or three
inches, except with its male flower stalks, which
sometimes reach two or three inches above the
leaf growth. There are, however, several plain
and mountain grasses called Buffalo grass. The
true Buffalo grass (Buchloe) grows most abun-
dantly in the central region of the plains, and
affords nutritious grazing for domestic animals ;
yet its value as a winter forage plant is not to be
overlooked, as its stolons remain green during
the winter months, and, combined with the dead
leaves, afford to close-grazing animals a reason-
ably good living. In southern Kansas, the plant
reaches its eastern limits, about one hundred miles
west of Fort Scott.
Gama Grass.— No. 6 of the table. The
Muskit, Mesquit, Gama, or Gramma, grass, con-
tains a number of species, the one named being
the principal. The name by no means applies to
the species or to the several species of the genus
exclusively, but is given by the mountain men to
several other species of different genera. It is a most valuable species for grazing
purposes, but grows too thinly and too short to be cut for hay. It abounds chiefly in
the mountain regions and the adjacent plain districts, and may be readily distinguished
from species of other genera by its peculiar spikelets of flowers all arranged on one
side of the rachis, and pointing in one direction. It supports on its stalks from one
to three or four, and sometimes five of these spikes, which are purplish, or of an
indigo-blue tinge. Its general height is about twelve inches, but in sterile locations
much less. The leaves and stems are smooth, having no hairs. It is perennial. .
Much of the beef of the Southwest is claimed to be the product of this grass.
No. 10 is a slender, tall grass, with a handsome head of drooping or nodding
spikes of flowers. Where it grows plentifully it gives excellent pasturage. Fowl
Meadow Grass, No. 11, is well known, and No. 12 has a plentiful supply of leaves,
and affords much mountain grazing.
PKAIEIE BLUE-JOINT, OR BEOOM GKASS.
(Andropogon Furcatus.)
146
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
X. Disappearance of Native Grasses.
In the settlement of a new country the natural grasses soon disappear under
close grazing and the constant tramping of herds. Hence the early necessity of
turning attention to the presepvation of the more valuable varieties by cultivation and
saving their seeds ; else recourse must be had to varieties already under cultivation.
Experiment should be made in both directions, and especially with the grasses of the
prairie and plains region of the West and Southwest. A natural grass region must
necessarily contain species valuable for perpetuation. The hot, dry character of our
summers, intensified as we go west, and our cold winters, often with bare ground, is
not conducive to "the struggle for life" of moisture-loving plants against rank
weeds. Hence the far West must be content with
comparatively few si^ecies. "What is wanted on the
great plains region is, plants that will do there, as
far as may be, what Blue-grass has done for the
central Western States, or those east of the Missis-
sippi. Grasses with creeping root stalks would
naturally be suggested, if strong and growing
perennial.
The Lyme Grasses. — Some of the Lyme
grasses, or wild rye (^Elymus), have been recom-
mended, and among them the following: Virginia
Lyme Grass {E. Virginicus). A hardy species of
early growth, producing an abundance of large,
succulent leaves when young; a widely distributed
species in America. Cultivation greatly accelerates
BUFFALO GKASS— (iacAioe). j^g growth. It is a promising species. Siberian
Lyme (E. Sibericus). Native of Europe and America, in the colder latitudes; would
probably succeed well in the northern districts, where it is native. Canada Lyme {E.
mollis), found on the shores of Lake Superior, and north. Grows early and spreads
by its running root-stalks; foliage, when young, tender and juicy. It thrives rapidly
well in a variety of situations different from its habitats (sandy shores) ; probably not
adapted to a dry soil, but well worthy of trial; leaves broad, rather short, with a
glaucous hue and strong wheat grass flavor. Some of the couch grasses {Triticum)
will undoubtedly prove valuable.
XI. Valuable Introduced Grasses South.
Broo:m grass (^Andropogon scoparius) and other varieties of broom sedge, are
said to contribute largely to the pastures of the dry, pine-woods regions of the South
while yet young and tender.
Drop seed (Muhlenbergia diffusa) forms the bulk of the woods pasture, after
the rains set in ; not especially valuable, but abundant, and imparting an agreeable
flavor to butter.
10
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES.
147
Wild fescue, or oats grass (Uniola latifolia) is thought to be valuable; it is
early, with rich foliage, vigorous in the South, and even found as far north as Penn-
sylvania, delighting in damp, sandy loams, where it forms large tufts, affording
abundant and early feed. When cultivated, it gives good croi3s of hay.
Gama Grass of the Soutll. — This is well known as a rank, strong, growing
grass. If cut before the seed-stems shoot up, it makes good hay, and may be cut
several times in a season ; the fodder is said to
be equal to corn fodder when cured. The seeds
do not vegetate readily, and it is generally prop-
agated from the roots, by setting out strips two
feet apart each way, when if on good soil
they will soon meet. It is a tall perennial grass,
with solid culms, broad and flat leaves, and with
flower-spikes from four to eight inches long,
produced from the side joints or from the top,
either singly or two or three together. The
upper portion of these spikes is staminate or
male, and the lower portion pistillate, and pro-
ducing the seeds. It grows from three to six
feet high, with large broad leaves, resembling
those of Indian corn.
XII. Bermuda Grass.
(^Gynodon dactylon) is undoubtedly one of
the most valuable of the grasses of the South,
but long detested by cotton growers, as were all
of the persistent grasses when the South was
engaged in producing only, special crops. Now
that diversified farming is more generally carried
on, it is acknowledged to be one of the most
valuable of Southern forage jilants. It rarely or
never produces seed in the United States, and is
propagated by chopping the roots into pieces, sowing them, and plowing them lightly
under. It is a common pasture grass of the We^t Indies and other warm winter
climates.
Mr. Charles Mohr, of Alabama, in a communication to the Department of
Agriculture, says it thrives in the arid, barren drift-sands of the sea-shore, covering
them by its long, creeping stems, whose deeply penetrating roots impart firmness to
a soil which else would remain, devoid of vegetation. It is esteemed one of the most
valuable of our grasses, either in the pasture or cured as hay. Col. T. C. Howard,
of Georgia, says, while we have grasses and forage plants that do well when nursed,
we have few that live and thrive here as in their native habitat. The Bermuda and
GAMA GRASS OF THE SOUTH.
( Tripsacum daciyloides,)
148
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Crab grasses are at home in the South. They are not only live, but live in spite of
neglect; and when petted and encouraged, they make such grateful returns as astonish
the benefactor. In relation to killing this grass, Colonel Lane says : "Upon any
ordinary upland I have found no difficulty by close cultivation in cotton for tw'O
years. It requires a few extra plo wings to get this sod thoroughly broken to pieces."
Dr. J. B. Killebrew, late Commissioner of Agriculture of Tennessee, and well
known for his careful investigations of grasses valuable in the South, writes that in
Louisiana, Texas, and in the South generally, it is, and has been, the chief reliance
INDIAN GRASS— (SORGHUM NUTANS.)
MESQUIT GRASS.
for pasture for a long time, and the immense herds of cattle on the southern prairies
subsist principally on this food. It revels on sandy soils, and has been grown exten-
sively on the sandy hills of Virginia and North and South Carolina. It is used
extensively on the southern rivers to hold the levees and the embankments of the
roads. It will throw its runners over a rock six feet across, and soon hide it from
view, or it will run down the deepest gully and stop its washing. Hogs thrive upon its
succulent roots, and horses and cattle upon its foliage. It has the capacity to with-
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES. 149
stand any amount of heat and drought, and months that are so dry as to check the
growth of Blue-grass will only make the Bermuda greener and more thrifty, as has
often been seen.
When grazed it is said no other plant will smother it out. Tramping does not
injure it, but if ungrazed. Col. T. C. Howard says, "Broom Sedge will certainly kill
it out in three or four years." When it is required to return the field to cultivation,
the land should be plowed very shallow, in the autumn, so as to set the furrows on
edge as much as possible, to allow the action of frost and air. This is said to kill
it as certainly as it will sugar-cane.
XIII. Guinea Grass.
This grass (^Panicum j'umeniorum') is sometimes confounded with Johnson grass
(Sorghum halapense}, incorrectly called Guinea grass. The true Guinea grass is
perennial, strong and vigorous, extending quickly by its creeping roots, by which it
is always propagated. Where there is danger of freezing, roots suflacient for the
succeeding year's crop must be protected by gathering and covering in a trench with
earth, secure from frost, like the ratoons of sugar-cane. Set out in the spring, they
will quickly fill the soil.
In Alabama, if planted in April, the first cutting of the forage may begin late in
May, and thereafter it may be cut every five or six weeks, until killed by frost, each
succeeding crop being better and better. If cut when eighteen or twenty inches high
the foi'age is sweet, tender, and said to be easily made into hay.
Panicum Varieties. — There are a number of grasses in the South of the
Panicum sub-tribe, as for instance Cocks-foot or Barn-yard grass, which makes fair
fodder if cut early. Slender crab-grass, a native species of Southern crab-grass, is
not valued. The true crab-grass (P. sanguinale) , Froiessov Killebrew thinks a fine
pasture grass, although it has but few base leaves and forms no sward, yet it sends
out numerous stems, branching freely at the base, and serves a most useful purpose
in stock husbandry. He says : "Northern farmers would congratulate themselves
very much if they had it to turn their cattle on while the clover fields and meadows
are parched up with summer heat. It fills all their cornfields, and many persons pull
it out, which is a tedious process. It makes a sweet hay; horses are fond of it,
leaving the best hay to eat it "
We may say that northern farmers can do very well without it, in the cornfields
at least. However valuable in the South, in the North new corn and other summer
forage plants well supply its place during the droughts of summer.
There are a. number of panicum grasses in the South that are undoubtedly valuable,
Texas, millet (P- Texanum) , would seem to be one of these. It is thus described:
"An annual grass two to four feet high, sparingly branched, at first erect, becoming
decumbent and widely spreading, very leafy, sheaths and leaves finely soft— hairy,
margin of the leaves, rough; leaf blades six to eight inches long and one-half to one
inch wide, upper leaves reaching to the base of the panicle, or nearly so; panicle six
150
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
to eight inches long, strict; the branches alternate, erect, simple, three to four inches
long, with somewhat scattered sessile spikelets. A grass of vigorous, rapid growth.
It is very leafy, the leaves broad, rather thin, sprinkled with short, soft hairs. It
grows two to three feet high, but the spreading stalks are often four feet or more in
length, growing very close and thick at the base, and yielding a large amount of
food."
XIV. Brome or Rescue Grass.
Aj!fOTHEE grass that is gaining reputation in the South is a member of the chess
family, a grass of many names, among them Brome grass, Schrader's grass. Rescue
grass, etc. Its botanical name is Bromus uniloid.es, a so-
called winter grass. In the Gulf States it seems to be
much esteemed. Mr. Charles Mohr, of Mobile, says of
late years it has been found spreading in different parts
of Alabama, making its appearance in February. It
grows in tufts, its numerous leafy stems ranging from
two to three feet high; it ripens seed in May, and aifords
y I I in the earlier months of spring a much-relished nutritious
\ I / food, as^well as a good hay. It will thus be seen that
the South is well provided with valuable grasses, if the
farmers will properly make use of what they have.
In the hill region of the South and in the two Virginias,
and the upland country of Tennessee, Kentucky, Mis-
souri, and in Northern Arkansas, the clovers and northern
varieties of grasses generally do well.
XV. Seeding Meadows.
The quantity of grass-seed sown per acre by the
best farmers, and the number of varieties used in seeding
SWEET-SCENTED VEKNAL GRASS, mcadows, and especially those that are to be pastured,
seems to many men to be a great waste. The waste, however, comes from seeding on
ill-prepared ground. No grass-seeds are large, and most of them are very minute.
If left on top of the soil they often become so dry that they do not germinate. If
sown too deep the germs never reach the surface, or only do so to die. The aim of
every man should be to get the best return for his outlay. It never was yet gotten
either by stinting seed or by slovenly cultivation. Eich soil, a fine tilth, and plenty
of seed, will give heavy windrows of hay and deep pastures.
As a rule, from ten to twelve pounds of seed are enough if the crop is intended
strictly as a seed crop. For mowing, ordinary thick sowing would be about twenty
pounds, mixing according to the varieties sown, say timothy twelve pounds, clover
eight pounds, or orchard grass sefen pounds, timothy seven pounds, and clover six
pounds. For mowing alone, timothy, red-top, orchard grass, meadow foxtail, fowl
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES. 151
meadow grass, and red clover will be the basis. For mowing and pasture add blue-
grass and white (Dutch) clover for gi-azing, except for cattle, leave out timothy, but
for pasture the more varieties the better.
XVI. The Alphabet of Agriculture.
A BIG herd makes a bare meadow.
Bad grass, bad farming; bad farming, bad crops.
Cultivate grass, and win wealth.
Dank meadows give dreary dreams.
Excellent herbage is an excellent heritage.
Fat pastures make fat pockets.
Grass is the governor, clover the crown, of agriculture.
Heavy meadows make happy farmers.
In the lea lies a lever of wealth.
June-grass is a jolly good joke, say the kine.
Kindly cattle come of good grazing.
Lean kine are lean milkers
Mean grass shows mean farming.
"Nodding grass" is wealth to the owner.
Old pastures, say the sheep, if you please. ■
Pastures prudently managed get better with age.
Quick grass, quick profits.
Rather than stint your meadow, stint your grain.
Sweet pastures make sound butter; soft hay makes stout wool.
Tall grass, thickly set, fills big barns.w
Up to my ears in sweet grass, says the steer.
Vain are the hopes of the farmer if the grass does not win.
Wealth leaves when the fodder fails.
Xanthium, the clot bur, never helped the grass.
Yellow hay never comes to him who is zealous.
Zeal in the meadow means weal in the wear.
The adage (and it is older than the Christian era). No grass, no cattle; no cattle,
no manure; no manure, no crops, covers the whole ground. It is as true to-day
as when first spoken, and will continue to be so as long as agriculture lasts.
XVII. Sowing for Hay and for Pasture.
iNFOEMATfON under this head is most clearly presented in tabular form. The
first table on next page shows the weight of seed and depth of germination. Those
following on same page give the quantity of seed to be sown of each variety for hay,
and for hay and pasture as adapted to various soils, with the total number of pounds
to be sown per acre.
152
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
NAME OF PLANT.
Timothy, clean, . .
Orchard grass,
Bed-top, ....
Meado^w foxtail,
Tall oat grass, . .
Sweet-scented vernal,
Crested dog's-tail, .
Hard fescue, . . . ,
Sheep's fescue, . .
Tall fescue, . . ,
CD r-
-^
56
12
5
7
6
26
10
14
14
CO
Depth (inches)
at-wliichgi-eat-.
estNo. of seeds
■will germinate.
74,000
0-H
40,000
o-K
425,000
o-K
76,000
o-'A
211,000
%-%
71,000
o-'A
28,000
Va-A
39,000
0-}i
64,000
o-K
20,500
O-H
NAME OF PLANT.
Wood meadow grass,
Kentucky blue-grass, • .
English rye grass, . . .
Italian rye grass, . . .
Kough-stalked meadow.
Red clover,
White clover, . . . .
Lucerne,
Millet,
Hungarian, ...
u
1"
Depth (inches)
at which gx-eat-
est No. of seeds
■will gei-minate.
15
173,000
0-H
14
243,000
0->4
20-28
115,000
h-y2
15-18
27,000
a-A
15
217,000
o-H
60
16,000
H-A
60
32,000
o-U
60
12,000
M-J^
48
5,000
A-h
50
6,000
A-h
GOOD MEADOW SOILS
1— Timothy,
2— Bed clover (biennial), .
3 — Bed clover (perennial),
4 — Orchard grass, . . .
5 — Meadow fescue, . . .
6 — Meadow foxtail, . . .
7 — Blue-grass,
OQ P.
Ml
III
12
8
8
4
4
6
8
2
3
3
5
GOOD MEADOW SOILS.
8 — Bed -top, . .
9 — Eye grass, . .
10— Fowl meadow,
11 — White clover.
Total,
5 g
27
SB'S
« ca o
n P
69Triticum repens E. B. i
70 Alopecurus agrostis
71JBromus usper E. B.
72' A. mexicana Hort. K.
73Stipa pennata E.B.
74ilella cairulea Cnrlis.
75PhaIariscanariensis...E. B.
76 Dactylis cvnosuroides. .Lin.
Sweet-scent. vernalgi'.Brit.
Sweet-scented soft gr. . Ger.
Blue moor grass Brit.
Alpine foxtail grass... Scot.
Alpine meadow grass. .Scot.
Meadow foxtail grass. -Brit.
Smooth-stalked meadow /
grass Brit. S
Short bluish meadow /
grass Brit. S
Downy oat grass Brit .
Barley-like fescue grass i
Hungary. S
Roughish meadow gr. .Brit.
Glaucous fescue grass. .Brit.
Smooth fescue grass... Scot.
Purple fescue grass — Brat.
Sheep's fescue grass... Brit.
Common quaking gi*...Brit.
Rough-head cock's-fcot t
grass Brit. \
Nodding pencilled brome i
gi-ass Eur. S
Cambridge fescue gr. . . 8ril .
Upright brome grass.. -Brit.
Narrow-leavedmea.gr Bril.
' Tall oat grass or /
Knot grass Brit. S
Tall meadow grass Scot .
Hard fescue grass Bril.
Upright peren. br. gr..Brit.
Common millet grass.. Brit.
Meadow fescue grass. .Brit.
Perennial rye grass Brit.
Sea meadow gi'ass Brit.
Spiked fescue grass.... Brit.
Crested hair grass Brit.
Crested dog's-tail gi-. . .Brit.
IMeadow oat gi-ass Brit,
Many fl. g. brome gr...Brit.
Wall fescue grass Brit.
Waved moun. hair gr. .Brit.
Bulbous barley grass.. Italy.
Reed-like fescue grass. Brit.
Seaside brome grass... Ger.
Tall fescue grass Brit.
Floating fescue grass.. Brit.
Meadow soft grass Brit.
Pubescent fescue gr...Brit.
Fertile meadow grass.. Ger.
Striped-leaved reed gr.Bril .
Bulbous-stalked cat ■'s-tail t
grass Brit. S
Meadow cafs-tail gr.. -Brit.
Meadow barley gi-ass.-Brit.
Flat-stalked mead. gr..Bnt.
Reed meadow grass.... Brit.
Water hair gi*ass Brit,
Turfy liair grass Brit
Yellow oat grass Brit,
Barren brome grass. . . . Brit.
Creeping soft grass — Brit
Fertile meadow grass. .Ger.
Fine bent grass Brit.
Marsh bent gi-ass Brit.
Creeping panic grass.. Brit.
FiorinofDr. Richardson. .Brit.
Narrow-leaved creeping /
bent Brit. S
Spiked fescue Brit.
Brown bent Brit.
Upright bent grass Brit.
.Snowy bent grass Brit.
Tufted-leaved bent gr. Brit.
Green panic grass Brit.
Lobed bent gi'ass Brit.
Black or creeping-rooted /
bent, bl. couch... Brit. S
Creeping-rooted wheat /
gr, or couch gr.. .Brit, s
Slender foxtail grass. .Brit.
Hairy stalked br. gi-...Brit.
Mexican bentgr...S. Anier.
Long awned fea. gr. ..Brit.
Purple melic grass Brit.
Common canary gr....Brit.
Amer. cock's footgr-.N. A.
E.B. 647
Host, N.A
E.B. 1613
E.B. 1126
E.B. 1003
E.B.
Peren,
Peren,
Peren
Peren,
Peren
k
Peren
Peren,
Peren
Peren
E.B. 585
E.B. 340
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
470
471
1106
1592
315
1140
1821
648
316
1204
1884
1412
1519
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
H.D.
1593
1520
1169
700
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
409
365
1315
1557
1453
952
1030
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
E.B.
1671
1189
850
1532
Peren
Peren
Peren
Peren
Peren
Peren,
Annual
Annual
Annual
Peren
Peren.
Peren.
Peren
Peren.
Peren.
Peren.
Peren
Peren
Peren.
Peren.
Peren.
Peren
Animal
Annual
Peren
Peren
Peren.
Peren
Peren
Peren
Feren
Peren.
Peren.
Peren,
Peren.
Peren.
Peren.
Annual
Peren.
Peren
Pereii
Peren
Annual
Peren.
Peren.
Peren.
Peren.
Peren.
E.B. 730
E.B.1&)6
E.B. 848
E.B. 1172
E.B. 1310
E.B. 1356
E.B. 909
E.B. 750
Peren.
Peren.
Annual
Annual
Pereu.
Peren.
Peren.
Annual
Apr.
Apr. 29
Apr. 30
May 20
May 30
May 30
May 30
June 21
June 25
June 20
June 24
June "
June 24
July 14
May
June
June
June
June
June
June
June
June
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
Brown sandy loam
Rich sandy loam
Light sandy soil
Sandy loam
Light sandy loam
Clayey loam /
Sandy loam S
Bog earth and clay
Bog earth and clay
Rich sandy soil
Manured sandy soil
Man. light br. loam
Brown loam
Clayey loam
Light sandy soil
June 24
June 28
June
June 28 July
July 16
July 16
July 16
' ' 16
Rich brown loam
Rich sandy loam
Light sandy soil
Light sandy soil
Ricli brown loam
Brown loam
July 16
June 28
July 1
July
July
■July
July 1
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July 10
July 10
July 12
July 12
July 14
July 14
July 14
July 14
July 16
July 16
July 16
July 20
July 20
July 20
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
July
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
July
July
July
July
July
July
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
July 24
July 24
July 24
July 24
'Vug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
July 24
July 28
July 28
July 28
July 28
July 28
Julv 2tt
Julv 28
Aug. 10
Aug. 10
Aug. 2
Aug. 6
Aug. 8
10
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug,
Aug,
Aug,
.30
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
\.ug.
Ulg.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Aug.
Sep.
Sep.
Sep.
Sep.
Sep.
Sep.
Oct.
Rich clay loam
Light sandy loam
Rich sandy soil
Light sandy soil
Bog soil and coal ashes
Rich brown loam
Light brown loam
Rich browu loam
Saiuly loam
Manured br. loam
Rich sandy loam
Clayey loam
Light sandy soil
Heath soil
Man. clayey loam
Clayey loam
Clayey loam
Black rich loam
Str. tenacious clay
Strong clayey loam
Black sandy loam
Clayey loam
Black sandy loam
Clayey loam
Clayey loam
Man. brown loam
Man. gi'avelly soil
Str. tenacious clay
Water
Str. tenacious clay
Clayey loam
Sandy soil
Sandy soil
Brown sandy loam
Sandy soil
Bog earth
Man. sandy loam
Bog soil
Bog soil
Man. light san.soil
Brown sandy loam
Bog soil
Sandy soil
Light sandy soil
Light sandy soil
Sandy soil
Clayey loam
Light clayey loam
Light sandy loam
Light sandy soil
Black sandy soil
Heath soil
Light sandy soil
Clayey loam
Clayey loam
Meadows
Woods, moist mead.
Pastures
Scotch mountains
Scotch Alps
Meadows
Mea. and pastures
Meadows '
Chalky pastures
Corn-fields
Meadows
Chalky pastures
Mountains
Mca. and pastures
Dry pastures
Pastures
Soft moist soils
DiT pastures
Corn-lie Ids
Meadows
Arable lands
Meadows
Pastures
Chalky pastures
Woods
Meadows
Loamy pastures
Salt marshes
Moist pastures
Sandy pastures
Pastures
istnies
Poor past. , hedges
Walls
Dry soils & heaths
Loamy pastures
Hedges
Sea-shores
Meadows
Ponds
Moist meadows
Woods
Meadows
Moist loams
Dry pastures
Mea. and pastures
Meadows
Walls
Ditches
Clayey pastures
Pastures
Rubbish
Sandy pastures
Meadows
Mea. and pastures
Marshy places
Arable lands
Moist places
Moist places
Meadows
Clayey pastures
Clayey pastures
Clayey pastn res
Clayey pastures
Sandy
Sandy pastures
Arabic lands
Arable lands
Road -sides
Moist sand, places
Rich pastures
Peat bogs
Sandy pastures
CuUivated fields
Loamy pastures
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES.
157
ARRANGED IN THE ORDER OF THEIR FLOWERING.
Kind of
Roots.
Produce, at the Time of
Flowering, per Acre, ni lbs.
Produce, when the. Seed
is Ripe, per Acre, in lbs.
Loss or Gain
by Cutting
when in
Flowering,
Loss or Gain
by Cutting
when in
Seed, in
Produce of
the Latter-
matli,per
Acre, in lbs.
General Character.
Grass.
Hay.
Loss
in
liyins
Nutri-
tive
Tiattcr
Grass.
Hay.
Loss
dryinj:
Nutri-
tive
natter
Nutritive
Matter, ill lbs.
Matter,inibs.
Gross.
^futrl-
tivc
natter
Loss.
Gain.
Loss.
Gain.
1
Fibrous
7827
9628
2103
2441
6723
7087
122
610
6126
27225
6806
18.37
9628
4287
17606
311
2233
398
188
1600
188
1600
6806
17016
3828
1129
An eui-ly piislure grass.
The most nutritive of early flower-
Not desei'vlng culture, [iiig grasses.
ing
A vile weed on poor arable lands. .
6(1
7f
71
Fibrous
7-
71
Fibrous
74
A jroocl bnvn grass.
Grown for lis seeds.
T
Fibrous
7C
:::::;i;::::
158
THE HOME AND FAKM MAITOAL.
The Grass Family. — Taking the arrangement of Gray, the Gramineoe, or Grass
Family, has for its tribe, 1, Poacem. This contains fifty-two sub-tribes, or genera,
and includes not only all our true cereal grains, but also Indian corn, sugar-cane, and
the most valuable grasses. A genus theft is an assemblage, or number of species,
agreeing structurally and physiologically, in flowering, fruitage and perpetuation,
having also a general resemblance in habit. A species comprises plants precisely
alike in every character, capable of uniform, invariable and continuous perpetuation
by natural propagation. A variety is the variation produced by accidental change in
a species, and is not capable of uniform, invariable and permanent continuance by
natural propagation. A hybrid is a plant produced by the mixture of two species.
As a rule it is infertile — that is, not capable of propagation by seed. Hence hybrids
and varieties are propagated by cuttings, grafting or budding. We have been thus
precise in defining the meaning of terms, since, except among botanists, much con-
fusion exists in relation to a subject which should be known to eyery farmer.
Let us trace Blue-grass, for instance, because it is easily recognized. It belongs
to the poa sub-family, or Poacem. Its generic name is poa, the ancient Greek name
for grass, while its specific name is_ pratensis. Thus we have what may be called its
surname, Poa, and its given name Pratensis, which we translate " green meadow
grass," the name Kentucky Blue-grass being merely
a local name, but generally adopted. It is indig-
enous all over the North, on ■ suitable lands, from
the New England coast westward, and, in fact, the
seed is said to have been carried into Kentucky
from Indiana, by the soldiers in General Harrison's
famous campaign, in which the power of the great
western Indian tribes was broken.
XXII. Favorite Pasture Grasses.
BLUE-grass, where' it is at home, or on good
calcareous loams, is the best pasture grass known,
giving early and late feed, but failing under the
heats of summer, especially when dry. The Spear
or June grass {poa compressa, from its flattish
stalk) is of fully as much value on soils adapted to
it; these are dry knolls, sandy loams, and dry,
compact sandy soils. It is found from Northern
Wisconsin to Tennessee. Eough-stalked Meadow
grass (P- Trivialis) is an excellent pasture grass,
except that it does not like hot suns. In cool, par-
tially shaded soils, it stands the tramping of stock, and makes excellent pasture, and
if not cut for hay stands the sun fairly well.
BLUE-GRASS
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES.
159
There is a large family, many
XXIII. Bent Grasses.
This is the name given to what we call Red-top.
of them excellent grasses, and especially noted
for their tenacity of life. The common Red-
top {A. vulgaris) is called Herds-grass in
Pennsylvania, Burdin's grass in some sections
of New England, and Red-bent and Summer-
dew grass in other localities. The bent grasses
thrive in soils deficient in lime, and hence in
such soils supply the place of Blue-grass, to
which it is next in point of value as pasturage.
The whole family, however, are somewhat
deficient in aftermath, but start early in the
spring.
White Bent or Fiorin (A: Alba) has had
a variable experience in the United States. It
likes a moist, fertile soil, and gives more late
feed than Red-top. Creeping Red-top (A.
stolonifera) is said to be a variety of this
grass, and was called Fiorin by Richardson.
It thrives on dry land and ought to be valuable.
The Red-top grasses must not be confounded
with the dreaded quitch or couch grass ( Triti-
cum repens), which belongs to the wheat tribe.
In some localities it is -well thought of, but it
should never be permitted on arable lands.
The bent family, on the other hand, though persistent, are not diflicult to kill.
XXIV. Orchard Grass.
There are two varieties of this most valuable grass, called in England Cock's-
foot. One, Dactylis glomerata, is the variety best known in the United States. For
dry, somewhat ojaen rich soils it is one of the most valuable of grasses. Stiff
retentive clays are not adapted to it. It is a moisture-loving plant, but not the
moisture of saturation. It also thrives well in the shade, and hence its name of
Orchard grass. It is apt to form into tussocks, if sown thinly, but not when sown
thickly, except on soil not adapted to it. It is indigenous to the whole of Europe,
Northwestern Africa, Asia Minor and the United States, and is second, perhaps,
to no other pasture grass in the country, since it starts early in the spring. It
springs up quickly after being grazed or mown, and gives abundant pasturage in the
autumn. Orchard grass flowers with Red clover, resists drought well, and in
flesh-forming material is superior to Timothy, ranking with it as ten to seven in
the scale of value. '
RED Tor.
160
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
XXV. Grasses for Various Regions.
AuL the United States
tuc^, Missouri and Kansas,
north of, and including, Virginia, Tennessee, Ken-
and also Canada, are natural grass countries. All
the meadow and pasture grasse,s will thrive there,
and the less known are worthy of trial. The follow-
ing is a summary of grasses recommended for the
following named States, south and on the Pacific
coast, from returns sent to the Department of
Agriculture, from practical cultivators in the States
named:
Alabama — Orchard grass, Kentucky blue-grass,
timothy, herds-grass (red-top), Johnson grass,
alfalfa and California clover.
California — Timothy, large red clover, the
millets, orchard grass, Italian rye grass, white
clover, Guinea grass ( Panicum jumentorum ) , Ber-
muda and alfalfa.
Florida — Bermuda, alfalfa, Guinea grass ( Pan-
icum jumentorum ) , orchard grass, Johnson grass and
clover.
Georgia — Kentucky blue-grass, orchard grass,
herds-grass (called red-top in New England), timo-
thy, the clovers and alfalfa, in the order named. .
Idaho and Montana — All the grasses for bot-
tom lands, and alfalfa for '.'bench lands."
Louisiana — ^Kentucky blue-grass, orchard grass, Bermuda, timothy, herds-grass
(red-top), the clovers and alfalfa.
Mississippi — Orchard grass, herds-grass C red-top), the clovers, Kentucky blue-
grass and the millets.
Texas — ^Alfalfa, Bermuda, timothy, the clovers, orchard grass, Johnson grass
and the millets, in the order named.
"Washington Territory and Oregon — ^Italian rye grass, orchard grass, the clovers,
tall meadow oat grass, Kentucky blue-grass, Texas mesquit and Bermuda.
XXVI. Clover in Its Relation to Husbandry.
Clover has a threefold relation to husbandry: as a seed crop, as a forage crop,
and also for its wonderful power of renovating the soil. Its proper soil is a thoroughly
drained loam or loamy clay. Soils that in drying out crack badly, or those subject
to heaving, are not adapted to clover. Argillaceous, granitic, drained calcareous
loams, red and other well-drained clays are all congenial to its growth, and, in fact,
nearly all soils, except those quite sandy or wet. The first winter it is apt to suffer
ORCHARD GRASS.
MEADOAV AND PASTURE GRASSES.
161
if seeded in the fall, and hence should be sown in the spring. When sown alone it
usually blossoms the first season ; if seeded with wheat, generally not until the next
season. If the seed is to be taken, it should be sown alone, and for plowing under
the same rule will apply. As soon as it is well up it should have two bushels of land-
plaster (gypsum) per acre, especially on granitic soils. When sown for hog-pasture,
for cutting green, or for turning under, not less than sixteen pounds of seed should
be given per acre. If intended for seed, twelve to sixteen pounds will be sufficient.
For plowing under, the Mammoth Red Clover (T. Pratense var.) is the best.. It
grows four to six feet high, and produces enormously in root and top. Cattle do not
like it much, but hogs do.
XXVII. The Seed Crop.
Sow as early in the spring as the soil will admit, on land prepared and leveled
in the best manner, covering one-half inch deep.
The first flowering is apt to blast, hence this is
cut for fodder, and the later or summer growth
is taken for seed. It is generally mown with a
machine, allowed t© dry in the swath, raked into
windrows, and, when thoroughly dry, either
threshed directly with a clover huller or else
stacked and threshed later. The yield is all the
way from four to eight, or even ten bushels an
acre. Six bushels is a good yield, and from the
high price it bears, it is a good-paying crop in
places remote from the great markets. The best
seed is raised in the West, for there it is not in-
fested with the seeds of Canada thistle, and other
pestilent weeds.
XXVIII. Valuable Varieties of Clover.
Clover in England is called trefoil from its
MAMMOTH RED CLOVER. botauical name TrifoUum, three leaved o*!- lobed.
Botanists number about 160 species. At least eight of these belong to the Northern
States, and there are a number of species in California and the Southern States.
Thevarietiesmostgenerally cultivated are Bed clover (T. praiense), and White, or
Dutch clover ( T. repens).
Red Clovers. — Of the red clovers the more valuable are: biennial clover
(T. pratense), perennial clover (T. pratense, perenne), meadow clover, medium or
cow clover, as it is indifferently called ( T. medium), and buffalo clover ( T. reflexum).
There are two so-called buffalo clovers: T. stolonifera, creeping buffalo clover,
having a white blossom, and not valuable. The first mentioned has a large red blossom
and hairy stem, and is worthy of extended trial. It is a southern rather than a
northern variety,
u
162
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
The clover known as common red clover has a large, spindle-shaped root. The
stems of the plant are somewhat hairy; the leaves oval or obovate, often notched at
the end, and having on the upper side of the leaf a pale spot. The flower heads are
egg-shaped and set directly on the end of the stalk, rather than on the branches. The
perennial variety, sometimes called cow grass, is reported to be indigenous to rich
English pastures. It is de^nied by some that there is any difference between this and
the common biennial variety.
Mediiun Clover. — Medium clover |( sometimes called cow grass) is specifically
known as zigzag clover, the stems are zigzag, rather smooth, the leaflets oblong, not
notched at the end, and without spot. The flowers are a deeper purple and larger
than the first-named species. The root is more fibrous or creeping, and the flowers
are later. Otherwise it is the same, except it is perennial in its habit.
Another variety of clover thought well of in Europe, is the crimson clover
( T. incarnatum) . It is an annual of great beauty, a native of Southern and Central
Europe, and is sown there in autumn as a forage crop for the succeeding summer. It
may be valuable south.
XXIX. Dutch, or "WTiite Clover.
. This is a perennial plant growing in a great variety of soils, but preferring a
moist loam. If not indigenous to the United States,
it is thoroughly acclimatized all over the North and
West, and in Canada. It is one of the most important
of our pasture plants in moist seasons ; it shows itself
but little during dry ones. In moist seasons every field
and lawn will be gay with its blossoms, and in some
portions of Iowa it has such complete possession of
the soil that large amounts of seed are saved.
Mr. Charles Fox, in his text-book of agriculture,
says there are two varieties of White clover essentially
different in habit, the English variety being a strong
growing plant, well adapted to meadows, frequently
standing eighteen inches high when supported; and
that the American variety, grown side by side, was
short, adhering to the ground, wholly unfit for the
meadow, which we all know it to be. He believes one
a variety of the other, and considers them, economically,
very distinct. Some English catalogues also claim that
the American seed gives clover inferior in growth to
the original variety. It is unnecesary to say this is simply an advertising trick.
XXX. Alsike or Swedish Clover.
WHITE OLOVEE.
On soils too moist for Red clover, Alsike clover ( Trifolium hybridum) should
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES.
163
be sown. There is no doubt of the value of this clover, or of its hardiness. On
rich land it is apt to lie partly flat at mowing time,
and hence the land should be made smooth and level
for the seed. Ten to fifteen pounds is sufficient to
seed an acre fully. In its general appearance and
habit of growth, it is intermediate between the com-
mon red and the white clover. It is valuable for
pasturage, growing rapidly after being eaten down,
and furnishing a large amount of food during the
season. The stems remain soft and succulent, never
becoming so woody and hard as the red clover. It
partakes of the creeping, spreading habit of the
white clover, and yields well when cut for hay,
being thick and close, lilthough not so tall in growth
as the red clover. It may be mown for hay when
the blossoms are mature. Its aftermath is dense
and heavy, and both the hay and green plants are
relished by cattle. It is a fibrous-rooted plant, like
Dutch clover, and might be described as a giant
white clover, if it were not for its blossoms. These,
when they first appear, are only faintly tinged, but alsiiie clover.
as they become fully opened they assume a pale-red tinge. This clover requires
three years to attain its full vigor of growth. It is then essentially richer than red
clover, containing, according to the analysis of Wolff and Knopf two per cent more
of flesh-formers than red clover.
XXXI. Clovers for the South— Alfalfa.
The best name for this plant is Lucerne. Its botanical name is Medicago Sativa.
In warm climates it is undoubtedly one of the most valuable of forage plants,
especially where it may be irrigated in hot weather. There seems, then, almost no
limit to its production. In the North, ft is not valuable, although it survives the
winter up to forty degrees, but it cannot there compete with the true Red clover. In
California it is the great forage plant, often growing wild. It is also widely naturalized
in South America. In fact, in warm climates, on porous soils, it has the most extreme
vitality, standing the severest drouths, but producing largely only under the influence
of moisture.
For Hay. — Of its cultivation and value South the Rev. C. S. Howard has written
fully. He says that no grass or forage plant in cultivation at the North will yield
nearly so much hay as lucerne at the South. In good seasons, and on land sufficiently
rich, it can be cut four or five times during the year. An acre of good lucerne will
afford hay and cut green food for five horses the whole year. Ten acres will supply
fifty head of plantation horses.
164
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Soil and Cultivation. — ^It is useless to attempt the cultivation of lucerne on
poor land. It will live, but it will not be profitable. There are certain indispen-
sable requisites in the cultivation of lucerne. The
ground must be good upland ; it must be made very
rich ; it cannot be made too rich. It must be very
clean. When the lucerne is young it is dehcate,
and may be smothered with the natural weeds and
grasses of a foul soil. Land which has been in
cotton, worked very late, if made sufficiently rich, is
in a good state of preparation for lucerne. The
mantire you put upon it must be free from the seeds
of weeds. Great depth of cultivation is necessary in
preparation of the soil for lucerne. Ten pounds of
seed are required for an acre, sown broadcast.
Either early in autumn or early in February are
good seasons for sowing lucerne. The seed should
be lightly harrowed in, and then the surface should
be rolled. Lucerne lasts a great number of years, the
roots ultimate-
ly becoming as
large as a small
carrot. It
should be top-dressed every third year with
some manure free from the seeds of weeds.
Ashes are very suitable for it. The lucerne field
should be as near as possible to the stables, as
work- horses, during the spring and summer,
should be fed with it in a green or wilted state.
As lucerne is much earlier than red clover, it
will be found a useful adjunct in hog-raising.
Hogs are very fond of it, and will thrive on it
in the spring, when it is cut green and thrown
to them.
XXXII. ^apan Clover.
This is another leguminous plant of the
South that, of late years, has attracted more
and more attention. Cattle eat it readily, and
sheep greedily. It has been called bush clover,
from its habit. There are a numiber of plants
of this genus Lespedeza. This one, L. striata,
JAPAN CLOVER. stands the winters as far north as Tennessee and
ALFALFA OE LUCEENE.
MEADOW AND PASTURE GRASSES. 165
Kentucky. It is a low growing perennial plant and spreading. The leaves are small,
three-lobed like clover, and numerous, growing on the poorest soils and standing
the extremest drouths. It has now extended pretty well over the South, below
thirty-six degrees, from the Atlantic to the Mississippi. It is said to be a native
of Eastern Asia and introduced from there.
XXXIII. Mexican Clover.
This is another southern plant recently introtiuced. It is not a true clover, but
belongs to the same family of plants as coffee and ipecacuanha. Its botanical name
is Richardsonia scabra. It has become extensively naturalized in some parts of the
South. Under favorable circumstances it grows rapidly, with succulent, spreading,
leafy stems, which bear the small flowers in heads or clusters at the ends of the
branches, and in the axils of the leaves. The flowers are funnel-formed, white,
about half an inch long, with fodr to six narrow lobes and an equal number of
stamens inserted on the inside of the corolla tube. The stem is somewhat hairy,
the leaves opposite, and, like other plants of this order, connected at the base by
stipules or sheaths. The leaves are oblong or elliptical and one or two inches long.
There is some conflict of opinion as to its value. It has been known in Florida
for fifty years, and was regarded as a great pest among cultivated crops, which it
certainly is. Since more diversified agriculture has prevailed in the South, adverse
opinion is changing, and it is now regarded as of great value for feeding stock.
Mr. Matt. Coleman, of Florida, says attention was first called to it there from
the cavalry horses feeding on it greedily, and adds: "Hearing of this, I procured
some of the seed and have been planting or cultivating it in my orange-grove from
that time to the present as a forage plant and vegetable fertilizer. I find it ample
and sufficient. It grows on thin pine land, from four to six feet, branches and
spreads in every direction, forming a thick matting and shade to the earth, and affords
all the mulching my trees require. One hand can mow as much in one day as a
horse will eat in a year. Two days' sun will cure it ready for housing or stacking,
and it makes a sweet, pleasant-flavored hay. Horses and cattle both relish it. The
bloom is white, always open in the morning and closed in the evening. Bees and all
kinds of butterflies seek the bloom."
XXXIV. Importance of the Pulse Family.
The pulse family, to which clover belongs, contains a large number of plants
valuable to man both as food for himself and as forage for stock. Among those
necessary to man as food are peas and beans, in their variety. For various purposes
in the arts, for medicine, and other purposes, many might be named. The pulse
family is a vast one, comprising more than four hundred genera. Among them are
logwood, sandal-wood, the locust, indigo and liquorice. The tamarind, senna, the
peanut, Gum Arabic, all belong to the pulse family — leguminous plants — besides the
soy bean (a species of Dolichos), from which soy is made. Besides the clovers proper,
166 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
we have in this family of plants, peas, including the chick pea; beans, including
the celebrated (so-called) cow-pea of the South — which, however, is not a pea, but is
a bean [Dolichos) — there being many varieties, white, yellow, greenish, grey, red,
purplish, black and spotted. The white varieties are eaten as food; but as food for
cattle, pasture and hay, and as a crop in the rotation for plowing under, they have
fully as much value in the South as has clover in the North.
XXXV. Interotange of Grasses Between Nations.
Before leaving this subject finally we wish to say a word on the value of the
interchange of seeds and plants between different countries. The fact that a plant is
indigenous tD a country does not prove that it is useful there. Some of the more
valuable forage plants of the South, such as Alfalfa, Bermuda grass, Guinea grass,
Japan clover, etc., are introduced species. The same is true of the North. It is
more than probable that some of our western indigenous plains species may prove of
value in Australia, since that climate, like our far western one, is dry and hot in
summer. Australia has given to California the valuable Eucalypti. Our western
grasses stand hot sun, and many of them extreme drought, as the Gama and other
so-called Bunch grasses. The climate of Australia is mild in winter, which .our
western plains are not, but there, and in the hotter southwestern regions, may be
found grasses that may yet prove of great value there, aS many foreign varieties have
been found valuable here.
CHAPTER IV.
SOILING, FODDER AND ROOT CROPS.
SOILING COMPAEBD WITH PASTURING. II. SOILING INDISPENSABLE IN DAIET DISTRICTS. III.
SOILING AS AGAINST FENCING. IV. HOW TO RAISE A SOILING CROP. V. CORN AND SORGHUM
FOR SOILING. VI. THE CLOVE BS AS SOILING CROPS. VII. MILLET AND HUNGARIAN GRASS.
VIII. PRICKLY COMFRBY. IX. THE ADVANTAGES OF SOILING. X. RESULTS OP SOILING [IN
SCOTLAND. XI. ROOT CROPS FOR FORAGE. XII THINGS TO REMEMBER IN ROOT CULTURE.
XIII. PREPARING FOR THE ROOT CROP. XIV. SOWING AND CULTIVATING.— XV. HARVESTING
ROOT CROPS. XVI. PITTING AND CELLARING THE ROOTS. XVII. THE ARTICHOKE.
I. Soiling Compared with Pasturing.
^«OILING is the system of cultivating, cutting and feeding forage green, as dis-
l!S tinguished from pasturing in the field. It
pasturing in the field. It is only practiced in older-settled
^'' districts where land is comparatively scarce and dear, and manure plentiful,
labor cheap, and the stock kept principally for use on the farm. It prevails in
some portions of Europe, notably in Holland and Belgium, and in Great Britian.
In the United States it can hardly be said to prevail, to the exclusion of pasturing in
any of the farming districts. Its advantages are that no food is wasted, all the
manure is saved, and all the land of the farm is thus enabled to produce its maximum
of crops. Soiling, however, is coming to be regarded as of more and more importance
year by year, in all those sections of the United States that are subject to summer
drought,' to carry the stock over those seasons when pasturage is scant. Another
advantage is that it gives working cattle a daily portion of green food, so essential to
their health, without the labor of gathering it for themselves. In this view there can
be no doubt of its economy, since the daily cutting and hauling is comparatively light,
and the animals will do more than enough additional labor to pay the cost.
II. Soiling Indispensable in Dairy Districts.
In all the great dairy districts soiling is coming to be regarded as indispensable, .
during July and August, in order to keep cows up to their full flow of milk, and also
to enable the dairyman to protect them from torturing flies and mosquitoes ; thus they
may be pastured in the early morning and in the evening, giving needed exercise, and
kept under shelter during the heat of the day and at night. The question of profit
and loss must be decided by every one for himself.
When pastures are flush it would be folly to cut and cart fodder, but instances
are rare where the same quantity of stock can be kept full-fed during the heat of
summer as in the spring and autumn. This can only be done where irrigation is
practiced. So far as fattening stock is concerned, corn is the cheapest feed, un-
doubtedly, in the corn zone of the United States. Corn, or better, meal may form
[IS7]
168 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
a portion of the daily feed of milch cows, but they must have succulent feed and an
abundance of it, in order to keep them to their full flow of milk. Hence, some
system of partial soiling should be adopted by every farmer who keeps milch cows, an
important part of his regular farm economy.
III. Soiling as Against Fencing.
Where only enough cows are kept to furnish the family with milk, as in many
districts where the " no-fence law" is in operation, and where stock is herded in
summer, there is no doubt of the economy of soihng. The cost of fencing the farm
into fields, in order that the pastui-es may enter into the regular rotation, is saved; in
fact, the interest on this outlay would many times pay the cost of cutting and carry-
ing the fodder for the few animals fed.
On a farm in Central Ulinois, requiring the labor of sixty-five horses to work
it, and where five cows were kept for milk and butter, all were fed green food in
addition to their daily rations of grain during the summer. Two men and a team
cleaned the stables, hauled away the manure, cut the grass and fed it, and took the
entire care of the cows, besides doing various chores. The horses got about forty
pounds of grass a day, what hay they would eat (very little), and the cows were
fully fed on grass. The labor of not more than one man was required simply to cut
and haul the fodder. This was sown: rye, clover, common meadow-grass, and later,
sown corn-fodder. The cutting began when the crop was twelve to fourteen inches
high, except the corn, which was allowed to grow two feet high, and all was cut with
a mowing machine, and raked and loaded by hand.
IV. How to Raise a Soiling Or op.
Any land for a soiling crop to be cut green should be as rich as possible. The
more luxuriant the growth, the better the swath, thus making a great saving in the
labor of cutting and gathering. It will not do to depend on one variety for stock,
for they soon tire of a single diet. A patch of Red clover — in the South alfalfa —
one of Orchard-grass, one of Rye-grass, and one of rye may be provided. These will
make your first cuttings, and if the ground is heavily manured, and there is plenty of
moisture, these may be cut over once in four or five weeks and give a good
swath.
Millet, corn and sorghum should follow, to eke out these, and you will have a
variety that stock will never tire of. It is better for swine to be fed in this way than
to allow them to run in a pasture, since then you are not obliged to ring them, expos-
ing them to the risk of becoming impregnated with contagious blood, and other
infections. The grasses may be top-dressed to keep up the fertility. This should
always be done with compost manure, not less than four loads of forty bushels each
per acre per year, and if two bushels of plaster and one hundred pounds of super-
phosphate be added, it will pay. It will also pay to have the soiling crop field as near
the barn as possible. If you doubt the soundness of this advice, take a meadow of
SOILING, FODDER ANp KOOT CROPS.
169
mixed grasses, top-dress it with twenty loads of compost manure, plaster, and super-
phosphate, and watch the results. It will be a swath you cannot put a " scythe into
clear up to the heel."
No Wilted Fodder. — Whatever the soiling crop, be it corn, sorghum, millet,
clover, meadow grass, or cow peas, the soil must be rich, else you will fail. You will
also fail unless you cut it when quite green, or in its most succulent state. If you
think it does not pay to haul the crop when it is heavy with moisture, you may wilt it.
But good milk is not made from wilted plants. They are distasteful to stock, and
are eaten only under, compulsion. Above all, do not let the cuttings lie on the wagon
until they heat and begin to turn yellow. Distribute it as soon as hauled. Green
grass and other fodder is in just the right state for heating. It will begin to get warm
in half an hour if left in a pile. And certainly no humane man will force his stock to
eat disgusting or distasteful food when it can so easily be avoided. We should
almost as soon think One would take pleasure in having his family eat stale food. The
taste of animals is fully as delicate as that of man. At least we may infer as much
from watching them graze when not pressed by hunger.
V. Corn and Sorghum for Soiling.
Green corn and sorghum are among the most prolific
plants that can be grown for soiling. Once the roots get
established they feed greedily, and soon force the plants into
dense growth if the soil is fully manured. Corn and sorghum
should form a large portion of the feed, during August.
These two plants with millet and Hungarian grass will carry
the stock, with a fair variety of food, until the fall pastures
become flush.
The preparation of the soil must be looked to. If the
■ ground has been plowed early in the season, after heavy
manuring, give it a light coat of compost, or at least half-
rotted manure. Plow this under not more than four inches
deep, bring your soil as level and smooth as possible and into
the most perfect state of tilth. If you are certain your soil
will be clean from weeds, sow three bushels of corn to the acre,
broadcast, cover it in with the cultivator and roll the surface.
If sorghum is to be sown, use a bushel and a half of seed to
the acre, cover with the cultivator and then roll.
If you are afraid of weeds interfering drill the corn, one
and a half bushels to the acre, or sorghum three-fourths of a
bushel, by going over the ground twice with the corn planter
set to drill — ^the last time so' the rows will come between the
previous ones. This will leave the rows twenty-two inches sorghum.
apart, wide enough to work between with a narrow harrow or five-toothed cultivator.
170
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
In fact, by this system about all the cultivation may be done with the harrow, as
directed in the chapter on Indian Corn . We' have never failed to get a smothering
crop by drilling two bushels per acre with a grain drill set to feed properly and
deep, and then harrowing with a light harrow, once each way, just as the weeds
appear. Sorghum may be sown in the same way, from the grain drill and harrowed,
or planted as directed for corn from the corn planter, if it have a drill attach-
ment, which all good machines should have.
VI. The Clovers as Soiling Crops.
There are only two of the trefoils that give general satisfaction as soiling
plants. These are Biennial clover {Trifolium pratense) , aMd. Alfalfa (Medicago
sativa). The first thrives in the North, the latter in the South and in California;
and in other mild rainless summer climates where the crop may be irrigated. The
Yellow alfalfa or Burr clover of California (M. maculata), is recommended as
most valuable in the South, or wherever it is hardy, and can thus have time to
become established. It is not valuable in the
West north of the latitude of Kentucky.
The Cow-Pea for Forage. — The pulse
family produces another plant that is of the
greatest value in the South, viz, the Cow-
pea — which, by the way, is a misnomer; it is
really a bean (doUchos), of which there are
many varieties, some being used for the table.
The well-known asparagus bean is a dolichos.
The Cow-pea, while of less value for soiling, is
of great value to the South as a forage crop.
In fact, it is one of the most useful of plants
there as fodder, and for its value as a fertilizer
when turned under green. All farm stock eat
it. It will even thrive on poor soil, leaves the
land in the best possible condition, and when
sown in the corn-field makes excellent pasture
for stock a^fter the corn is gathered. But care
must be taken that greedy or hungry stock are
not allowed to graze it heavily at first, else they
will fill themselves so full that they will suffer
from hoven or bloat, from the gas generated,
HUNGAEiAJ* GRASS. ^nd perhaps die if not promptly relieved.
VII. Millet and Hungarian Grass.
There seems to be a general feeling against Millet and Hungarian grass for
cutting and feeding green. There can be no possible reason for this except that
SOILING, FODDER AND ROOT CROPS.
171
these plants cannot be sown successfully until both the days and nights are warm.
Hence it is not available for feeding until late, when there are other forage plants
in plenty.
Pearl Millet.— This plant {Penicillaria Spicata), also called Egyptian, or
East Indian Millet, produces enormously and is coming more and more into favor
in the South every year. It contains a large leaf
surface. It does not mature its seeds in the North,
but up to the latitude of about 40° attains full size
for cutting. In the South, if cut when young, it
will produce a second crop.
Brown Dhoura. — Thist is a sorghum, also
called Indian millet, Chocolate corn, Guinea corn,
and Pampas rice. It is a valuable crop South, for its
grain as well as for its fodder. Both these plants,
and, in fact, all the sorghums and Indian corn,
should be drilled two feet apart, which will allow
cultivation with a five-tooth cultivator or scarifier,
by drawing the implement closely together.
Common and German Millet. — Common
millet and German or golden millet are both ex-
cellent fodder-plants, and both of thein are rapid-
growing crops ; the first has a close head, the latter
more open but with plenty of leaves. These may
be sown as late, in the North, as the first of July,
and make a crop of hay. AU the fodder crops are,
however, often somewhat difiicult to cure, late in
the season, and both these and Hungarian grass are better sown from the first to
the tenth of June. The usual seeding is three' pecks to the acre, but for hay or
fodder one bushel per acre is better. If you wish to make seed, drill one-half bushel
of seed per acre, in drills two feet apart, covering the seed not more than half an
inch deep.
VIII. Prickly Comfrey.
This plant, of which much has been said, for and against, we do not think of
much value where there are other fodder plants to choose from. It has thick, broad,
succulent leaves, produces enormously on rich land — up to forty or more tons of
green fodder in a season, — endures the severest dlroughts, and in seasons of average
moisture may be cut four or five times in a season. It is propagated by divisions of
the roots, which may be set three feet apart, requiring nearly five thousand plants
to the acre. Stock do not take kindly to it at first, but, must be taught to eat it.
It is strictly a plant for dry soil, and should never be planted on low, wet ground.
It is, indeed, a moisture-loving plant, but it must be the moisture of a fairly drained
PEARL MILLET
172
THE HOME ANT) FARM MANUAL.
soil, for its roots range deep.
PRICKLY OOMFRET.
Hence its power of withstanding drought. Those
intending to experiment with this plant should
remember that it is not the common comfrey
of the United States, but an allied species
(^Symphytum asperrinum) from the Caucasus.
It is propagated and sold by nurserymen, and
is also kept by some seedsmen.
IX. The Advantages of Soiling.
The advantages of exclusive soiling, that
is, cutting and feeding green crops in summer,
will never be acknowledged in the United
States except near cities where land is valu-
able, and on restricted areas. The late Josiah
Quincy is the father of soiling in America;
his claims, true enough, were:
1, It saves land; 2, it saves fecinng; 3, it
economizes food ; 4, it keeps cattle in better
5, it produces more milk; 6, it increases the
there is better docility and discipline of animals
9, there is increased order in
condition and greater comfort;
quantity and quality of manure ; 7,
where it is used; 8, there is less breaking of fences;
all business of the farm.
Mr. Quincy's testimony in relation to soiling and the crops grown in Massachu-
setts, the State where his operations were carried on, is, that one acre soiled from
will produce at least as much as three acres pastured in the usual way, and that
' ' there is no proposition in Nature more true than that any good farmer may main-
tain upon thirty acres of good arable land, twenty head of cattle the year round, in
better condition, and greater comfort to the animals, with more profit, less labor, less
trouble, and less cash advance for himself than he by the present mode expends upon
a hundred acres." He further says, "My own experience has always been less
than this, never having exceeded seventeen acres for twenty head.
" To produce a suiBcient quantity and succession of succulent food — about one
and a half or two square rods of ground to each cow to be soiled — sow as follows:
"As early in April as the state of the land will permit, which is usually between
the fifth, and tenth, on properly prepared land, oats at the rate of four bushels to the
acre.
" About the twentieth of the same month sow, either oats or barle}-, at the same
rate per acre, in like quantity and proportions.
" Early in May sow, in like manner, either of the above grains.
" Between the tenth and twentieth of May sow Indian corn (southern dent being
best), in drills, three bushels to the acre, in like quantity and proportions.
" About the twenty-fifth of May sow corn, in like manner and proportions.
SOILING, FODDER AND ROOT CROPS. ' 173
" About the fifth of June repeat the sowing of corn, as above.
" After the last-mentioned sowing, barley should be sown in the above-mentioned
quantity and proportions, in following successions, on the fifteenth and twenty-fifth
of June, and in the first week in July, barley being the best qualified to resist the
early frosts."
X. Results of Soiling in Scotland.
Mr. Brown, of Mankle, Scotland, a farmer of extensive operations, made the
following experiment in order to ascertain the comparative merits of soiling and
pastuiiiig cattle. In the spring he took forty-eight Aberdeenshire bullocks which had
been wintered in his farm-yard, and separated them into two equal lots, one of which
he put to grass, while the other was soiled. The latter were fed on Swedish turnips
until the clover was ready for cutting, and then the clover was given sparingly for a
week, in order to avoid danger from over-eating, after which a full supply was
allowed.
The animals thrived exceedingly well until the grass got hard and withered.
About the last of July, the clover having ripened, vetches were substituted, which
were continued until the second crop of clover was ready for cutting. Ten of the
soiled lot were sold in August, and the remainder of the two lots in September. The
results are thus stated: The forty-eight cattle cost in purchase and wintering,
£503 2s. The best ten of the soiled lot sold at £17 5s. each; the remainder of the
two lots sold at £14 5s. each; the soiled lot thus bringing £377, and the grazed lot
£342, a difference of £35 in favor of the soiled cattle. It required one and three-
quarters acre of Swedish turnips, ^ight .acres of clover, and three acres of vetches to
furnish the food consumed by the twenty-four soiled <;attle. The result of soiling
exhibited decidedly the larger profit.
XI. Boot Crops for Forage.
Turnip culture revolutionized the agriculture of England. The cultivation of
Indian corn in connection with western grass, making cheap beef, bids fair to
revolutionize agriculture there again. The climate of the United States, with the
exception of a small portion of the extreme north, is unsuited to the cultivation of
.the white or round turnip on account of heat and summer drought. Even rutabagas
are generally hot, tough and stringy.
Another great objection to root crops is their cost, since they require much hand
labor, and the roots cannot be grazed in the fields-, as they can in England. And yet
the need of some succulent vegetable food in winter has been so widely felt, that
among our best farmers more or less attention has been paid to carrots, parsnips and
to the sugar and mangel beets. We have found that mangel wurtzel beets fully met
the requirements for both cattle and sheep. We are as fully satisfied that ensilage, to
be treated of in the next chapter, will fairly perform all that is claimed for roots, except
in some special cases. Hence it will be necessary to treat only of the general
requirements for the cultivation of root crops.
174 THE HOME AND FAKM JIANUAL.
XII. Things to Bemember in Root Culture.
Important things to be remembered in the cultivation of roots are :
1. Thej' cannot be successfully raised on land recently treated with green
manure. Why? It inevitably causes the roots to grow forked, reducing their value,
and largely increasing the cost of gathering and cleaning. Hence the land, unless
compost manure is used, should have been manured heavily one or two previous
seasons.
2. A root crop should never be raised except on land made as rich as possible
with manure. Why, again? Because it costs as much to cultivate a poor acre as a
rich one. The cultivation of roots involves an outlay of thirty dollars or more per
acre for labor alone.
3. The cultivation of roots should never be undertaken on lumpy, trashy land,
or on land otherwise difficult to work. It adds too largely to the manual labor of
making the crop. These points carefully remembered, it will not be difficult to attain
the best results for the least outlay.
XIII. Preparing for the Boot Crop.
The chief expense in the cultivation of root crops is hand-weeding the rows, and
thinning — singling as it is called — ^the planta. Hence the necessity of perfectly clean
land, and of having the seed sown in absolutely straight equidistant rows, on soil
entirely free from lumps or trash, and thoroughly friable. The orifice of the drill that
delivers the seed should also deposit it in knife rows, that is, one single narrow line.
In this way the hand cultivator may be run within an eighth of an inch of the rows,
and in large fields gang implements may be used, by which two or more rows may
be cultivated at a time.
These latter, however, are never used except in the most extensive market
gardens, where forty or more acres of roots are grown, or where beets are grown by
the hundreds of acres for making sugar. The writer has raised them thus, putting
beets in the pits at a cost of three dollars and forty cents per ton, on an average
yield of eleven tons per acre. It must be remembered that beets for sugar making
are never to be much over one pound each in weight. On highly manured land,
fifty tons of beets per acre, and of carrots and parsnips thirty or more tons per-
acre, may be raised.
To bring the soil into the best condition, it should be deeply fall-plowed. In the
spring, when the soil will work thoroughly friable, it may be lightly replowed,
harrowed, leveled with the leveler, and ground fine with the plank machine described
in a previous chapter. The accompanying cuts show Fig 1, field carrot; Fig. 2,
long mangel-wurzel beet. The shaded edges show the gi'ound line.
XIV. Sowing and Cultivating.
Field beets may be sown in drills thirty inches apart, and, in field culture,
carrots and parsnips in rows two feet apart. This will allow the horse cultivator to
SOILING, FODDER AND BOOT CROPS.
175
run between the rows, and after the plants have gained considerable size no hand-
work need be done. Six pounds of beet-seed will be required to the acre, to ensure
a stand against all contingencies.
Each capsule of the seed plant contains from
two to four seeds, and hence whether the land be
weedy or not the plants must be singled. In all
root crops the first thinning may be done with a
narrow hoe or other implement; the subsequent
thinning by hand. A wheel hoe (hand cultivator)
will pay for itself every year in the cultivation of a
single acre; and with such an implement one hand
will keep from five to six acres free of weeds,
going twice in each row, at every cultivation. Car-
rots and parsnips will require about four pounds of
seed per acre, to be sure of a stand, and allow for
what the insects may destroy.
Smgling.: — When the plants are up about three
inches they must be singled, by hand, the beets to
stand from nine to ten inches apart, and carrots
and parsnips five to six inches apart. In thinning,
steady boys may be employed. They must go down
on hands and knees, astride of the rows, the spaces
having been previously marked for them with the
point of a hoe or a gang implement, cutting narrow
lines. In extensive cultivation we have done this
with a horse machine going across the rows.
Weeding. — The weeders, whether boys or
girls, must be properly instructed. Being on the
hands and knees, the weeds, if any, having been
pulled, one hand secures the bunch of plants to
be operated on, while the other removes superfluous
jDlants. If the plants are strongly rooted, it may be
necessary to guard the plant to be left by holding
the finger before it, close to the ground. The weeding is difficult to describe, but
not difficult to learn. The ovei'seer should practice and experiment himself, so he
may be able to properly instruct those under his charge. The subsequent cultivation
is simply to keep down weeds.
XV. Harvesting Root Crops.
Fig. 1.
BELGIAN
CAKKOT.
Fig. 2.
MANGEL
WURZEL.
One of the most expensive operations, next to weeding, is harvesting. Beets
may be easily pulled by plowing a deep furrow away from them with a one-horse
plow". They should be laid in regular rows, two rows with the tops pointing together.
176
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Thus they are easily and quickly topped, by a man with a spade, ground sharp^
topping one row going one way and another the other. The tops are more easily
gathered up. The beets are then to be placed in long piles and covered with the
leaves, or else hauled directly to the pit or cellar. Eoots of any kind should never
be allowed to be wilted by the sun.
Parsnips and carrots are dug by hand or plowed out. In plowing, begin on one
outside row, and turn a deep furrow away from the row, running about seven inches
from the row. Pass around the field and plow another furrow
as on the first side. Returning to the first furrow, plow
another furrow as deep as possible, and as close to the row as
you can work. If you are a first-rate plowman, you can hit
it fairly; if not, you will here find it out. The roots are
then to be puUed, or lifted with the spade, topped, and carried
to the pits.
In Europe there are various machines for digging roots.
One that we made, and that would loosen five acres of beets
per day, was simply two very heavy, properly curved coulters,
each of them running under a row of beets. The digger
was attached to the beam of a gang-plow, and drawn by four
horses.
Two varieties of parsnips are shown in the illustration.
The one on the right is the hollow-crowned parsnip ; the one
on the left is an intermediate variety between short and long.
PARSNIPS.
XVI. Pitting and Cellaring the Boots.
Parsnips may be left in the ground all winter without injury. In the Channel
Islands they are a favorite crop for feeding milch cows, and all stock
are fond of them. Other roots must be housed or covered. Parsnips are
best piled in long ricks, whether above ground or in trenches. Attention
must be paid to ventilation, so that the roots shall not sweat and heat.
If kept too warm they will sprout.
All roots are ruined by freezing, except parsnips, salsify,
onions and rutabagas. These when frozen must be thawed
out naturally in the pits, kept dark, before being opened, in
order to escape injury. The pits may be about three and
one-half feet wide and three feet deep below ground, running
to a sharp apex above, with small bundles of straw reaching
from the bottom to the top at proper intervals. The whole
should then be covered with straw, six inches thick; with
a covering of earth at least six inches in depth or sufficient
to carry off rain. .
Let the straw ventilators extend above ground. At the approach of hard weather
carrots.
SOILIA'Ci, FODDER AND ROOT CROPS.
177
give another covering of six inclies oi straw and ten inclies of earth over this,
pits will be safe from an_y ortliuary winter weather; but when a good crust has
if very hard weather is feared, cover all with green manure litter.
The cuts of carrots represent, the one at the right, the Danvers, the
one at the left, the half long or intermediate varieties. For field culti-
vation the large red, and the white (Belgian) varieties, are mostly used.
They grow with a considerable jiortion of their leng^th out of the ground,
thus making their harvesting easier. The last cut shows the red Altring-
ham carrot, one of the lono:-rooted varieties.
XVII. The Artichoke.
A CHAPTER on soiling, fodder and root crops would not be complete
without mention of the artichoke. It "was introduced into Great Britain
from Brazil before the potato, but never met with much favor as an
esculent. Until its value as food for swine was discovered in the AVest,
it was used principally for pickling.
It is very hardy, remaining in the ground all winter uninjured by
our severest cold weather, and springing up the next season without
farther cultivation than that given by hogs in rooting out the large
tubers. They are, however, better, if the sections of the tubers are
dropped in furrows four feet apart, and plowed once or twice, the yield
in such cases sometimes reaching four hundred bushels to the acre.
When iDartly grown, the tubers are round, but as they attain full
become irregularly elongated. The color of the skin and Hesh is white,
produce few branches, attain the height of six, and even eight feet.
and the
frozen,
RED
ALTRINGHAM.
size, they
the stalks
and bear
JERTISALEM ARTICHOKE.
yellow flowers, similar to the garden sunflower, but much smaller. The cut repi'e-
sents a tuber of the Brazilian variety, reduced in size. A native variety found
growing in rich sandy bottoms of the West — the natural soil of the artichoke — is
brown, smooth and long like the sweet potato ; they are eagerly sought by swine.
12
CHAPTER V.
SILOS AND ENSILAGE.
I. WHAT IS ENSILAGE ? II. SILOS AND ENSILAGE LONG KNOWN IN EUROPE. III. TWO METHODS
ILLUSTEATED. IV. THE FATHER OF ENSILAGE. V. FERMENTATION SHOULD BE AVOIDED.
VI. WHAT ENSILAGE MAY DO. VII. THE HISTORY OF ENSILAGE. VIII. FEEDING VALUE OF
ENSILAGE.- IX. ENSILAGE IN THE UNITED STATES. X. EFFECTS OF FERMENTATION IN THE
SILO. XI. SIZE OF SILOS FOR CERTAIN NUMBERS OF STOCK. XIL HOW TO BUILD A SILO.^
Xm. PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE AND RESULTS. XIV. PERFECT FOOD AND RATIONS. XV. SOME
STATEMENTS OF THE QUANTITY FED. XVI. COST OF ENSILAGE IN MASSACHUSETTS. XVII.
BUILDING A MODEL SILO. XVIII. PRACTICAL CONCLUSIONS FROM CAREFUL EXPERIMENT.
.j^ I. "What is Ensilage?
f^HNSILAGE is a French word signifying the art of compressing into silos — ^pits,
i^^S trenches, etc. — green crops, or other succulent vegetation; the word literally
meaning the forage so preserved. Silo is the French name of the pit, trench or
chamber in which the ensilage is stored. A silo, then, is simply a vat, cistern, or
underground trench, water-tight at the bottom and sides, in which any vegetable sub-
stance liable to ferment may be kept fresh by exclusion of the air The structure
may be either entirely above or below ground, or partly above and partly below the
surface. It is not even necessary that the silo be made water-tight in dry soil, nor is
it necessary that it be bricked or stoned up in firm soil.
Thirteen years ago, when raising beets and manufacturing them into sugar, in
Central Illinois, the writer dug a square, deep excavation in clay soil, filled it with
the crowns and leaves of the beets left in the fields when the crop was gathered, and
covered them with two feet of earth. The leaves were thoroughly tramped while
filling in, and the earth occasionally was pounded down as the whole settled. Twelve
inches more of earth was added afterwards, and the ensilage came out in good con-
dition, except a crust a few inches thick at top and sides, but in a state of vinous
fermentation — what the German laborers called " wine sour." Still, unsupported
earth silos are not to be commended. Properly supported with stone, or brick and
cement, they are cheaper in the end. The earth covering, also, does not settle evenly,
gas generates, and the ensilage puifs up and admits air.
II. Silos and Ensilage Long Known in Europe.
The art of preserving succulent food in tight cisterns has been known for many
years. Brewers' grains have been so preserved. It is claimed that silos were known to
the ancient Romans, but there is no good authority to show that green fodder was kept
by them in this way. It is also asserted that the Mexicans so preserved their grain,
[178]
SlliOS AND ENSILAGE.
179
both green and matured, by this method. The Mexican Indians and the Indians of
North America did often keep their corn in the husk in underground caves, but not
under pressure enough to exclude the air. A dry situation was chosen, and the grain
was kept in much the same way that is now in general use for preserving roots —
nothing more.
No.1
TALL COEN, CLOSE
SHOOIvED.
DWARF COEN, IN TWO
TIERS.
Na.3 ^"""^
DWARF CORN, IN THREE
TIERS.
The practical apphcation of air-tight silos for preserving green forage fresh and
sweet, is a modern idea. The honor of the discovery belongs to the French. It is
only within the last few years that the process, has received the careful attention of
experimenters in the United States.
Fio 4^
F,e.B
BEFORE COVERING.
AFTER COVERING.
III. Two Methods Illustrated.
FINAL COMPRESSION.
The series of cuts numbered from one to six, exhibit two methods of forage
mowed green. The first three show the proper plan of bundling 'Indian corn or
sorghum, and of stacking together, when the fodder is to be cured in the field dry
for winter use. Forage thus stacked will shed rain perfectly; this plan is in fact
nothing but compact shocking. But this final binding must not be done until the
bundles which form the shock are thoroughly air-dried. Fig. 1 shows simple close
shocking of tall corn. Figs. 2 and 3 show the dwarf varieties; 2 in two tiers, and
3 in three tiers of bundles.
180 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Earth Silos. — The French plan of ensilage is exhibited by the cuts numbered
4, 5 and 6. Fig. 4 shows the ensilage when first piled and tramped, and before
covering. It also shows the proper form of root pits. [See chapter on Raising and
Pitting Roots.] Fig. 5 shows the ensilage as compressed both vertically and laterally
by the weight of the earth piled on top, and Fig. 6 shows the ensilage as finally
reduced by the earth pressure.
Crevat's Experiments. — M. Crevat, after several years of experiment,
recommends pits of the following dimensions: Depth, 2.30 meters (7.55 feet);
length, 8 meters (26.25 feet), at the surface of the ground, sloping down to '7.40
meters (24.28 feet) on the bottom; breadth, 2.60 meters (8.53 feet) at the top, and 2
meters (6.56 feet) at the bottom. Each pit has a capacity for about 40 cubic meters
(about 1,412^3 cubic feet) of fodder. M. Crevat has found reason to deepen the
trenches and to contract their width, in order to lesson the expense of covering them
with earth. The sides and ends are sloped, in order to allow an oblique, as well as a
vertical, pressure from the superincumbent earth, and to make the upper surface of
the fodder convex. In each of these pits about 10^ tons of green fodder may be
packed. Two or three days' drying in the hot sun will reduce it about a third in
weight. Many farmers prefer to dry the material in order to render it more easy of
transpoi-tation. The trench is filled and the fodder piled up above the ground to a
height equal to its' depth under the surface. The earth is then thrown upon the mass
before fermentation commences. Two feet depth of soil will depress the pile at
least a yard by simple pressure. After some days of fermentation it shrinks to less
than half its original volume. The weight of the material, by condensation, increases
from about 800 pounds per cubic yard to over 2,000 pounds.
General Observations. — In some cases, the silos are mere pits, with walls of
bare earth. In other cases, they are lined with brick or cement, either on sides or
bottom or on both. Where the soil is excessively damp, the walls are built entirely
or partially above the surface, and embankments are made for th.eir support. It is
found necessary to exercise special care in covering the pits to entirely exclude the
air. The dislocations in the fermenting fodder will often open fissures through the
covering soil, and the air thus admitted will transform the process of fermentation
into one of putrefaction.. Sometimes decidedly alcoholic fumes have been given off
through the crevices in the covering. One case is noted in which the ensilage entirely
failed, on account of using sand instead of earth as a covering. Different opinions
prevail in regard to the propriety of cutting or chopping the maize into small frag-
ments before packing in the trenches. In case the maize has become over-ripe, it is
urged that cutting facilitates fermentation, which will render the harder portions as
easy of mastication and digestion by farm animals as the softer portions.
IV. The Father of Ensilage.
To Mr. Auguste Goffart, a member of the Central Society of Agriculture of
France, belongs the credit of a system of experiments by which green fodder, cut
SILOS AND ENSILAGE.
181
ONE OF THE EABLIER SILOS.
small, was kept in water and air-tight excavations in almost as good condition as
when cut. In fact, the slight fermentation and breaking down of fiber, and the
desiccations which the forage undergoes when thus stored, undoubtedly renders the
coarser portions of the provender more digestible, the change being analagous, in a
sense, to cooking.
In 1852, Mr. Goffart built six underground silos of cemented masonry. They
were small, having a capacity only of two cubic meters each. [The French meter is
three feet three and one-third
inches.] Maize, Jerusalem arti-
choke, beets, sorghum, turnips
potatoes and straw were experi-
mented with; but not until 1873
did he have real success, and
then only by a fortunate discov-
ery. This was exclusion of air
by strong pressure. Hence to
this gentleman is undoubtedly
due the perfection of this very
valuable method of saving fodder for the winter months.
The Best Results. — His testimony, and no one is better qualified to speak
authoritatively, is that a silo built upon the ground gives the best results during the
season from December to March, but that underground silos are better for spring and
summer feeding.
He recommends silos sunk two meters (about six feet six inches) below ground,
and raised the same distance above. He feeds the upper portion during winter and
the lower portion later. In the United States, however, ensilage will not be used to
the exclusion of pasturage, and hence it will be economical for us to cut from top to
bottom, section by section.
V. Permentation should be Avoided.
In an address at Blois, France, Mr. Goffart held that: " It is important to avoid
all kinds of fermentation during and after ensilage. Fermentation can be prodrced
whenever desired, and a few hours suffice to give all its useful effects. Take each
evening from your silo the maize required for the next day's feeding, and in fifteen
or sixteen hours after, however cold and free from fermentation when taken out, it
will be quite warm, in full fermentation-, and the animals will eat it greedily. Eight
hours later it will have passed the proper limit and it will spoil rapidly."
With the cheap French labor, the cost of the ensilage, exclusive of that of raising
the crop is about twenty cents per ton prepared and placed in the silo.
VI. What Ensilage may Do.
It will give us succulent food in winter and also enable any farmer to tide over
182 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
I
the droughts of summer by saving the material in underground silos, and this at a
minimum cost. By this means many waste products of the farm, such as clean,
bright straw, may be added to the green forage to assist in taking up the superabund-
ant moisture, thus reducing the whole to one homogeneous mass.
Corn fodder is not a perfect food in itself; it may be made so by the addition of
other matter, mill-stuff, bran, etc. To the dairyman ensilage is of great value, since
it will keep the cows up to a full flow of milk continuously. To the shepherd it will
allow the use of succulent food, so needful to sheep in winter. It will assist the
breeder of young stock in keeping them in full growth and vigor in winter. It will
be equally valuable to the breeder and feeder of fine stock, who, notably, spend large
sums in artificial feeding stuffs.
VII. The History of Ensilage.
A COMMUNICATION to the Department of Agriculture at Washington, some ten
years ago, shows that the preservation of fodder in silos has been practiced in Austro-
Hungary for nearly eighty years, and in Germany previous to its employment in
France, but since its introduction into the latter country it has been nowhere so
elaborately developed as there. As we have already shown, the perfect results in
France have only been reached through the most careful and laborious experiments,
carried on through a long series of years.
VIII. Feeding Value of Ensilage.
M. Pasquat has deduced some valuable facts in relation to the feeding value of
ensilage. It was found that maize fodder (green) has a feeding-value equal to 22
per cent of that of hay; rye fodder, 38 per cent; grass (green), 34 per cent; bright
wheat-straw, 48 per cent. In a good forage ration for a milch cow, the ratio of
nitrogenous to non-nitrogenous matter should be as 1 to 5, or even as 1 to 4.5; for
young animals, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds, as 1 to 3.3 ; for animals of
450 pounds, as 1 to 4; for oxen in absolute repose, as 1 to 8. Maize-forage cut
green does not meet this requirement, as it shows a proportion of 1 to 9.24. The
maize preserved with a mixture of straw, as at Cer9ay, approximates the standard,
showing proportion of 1 to 4.81. Its increased per cent of fatty matter represents
also a great advantage, being six times. greater than in the green maize.
Other Facts. — ^M. Goffart finds that his preserved fodder is sufficient without
any other food to keep his animals in fine condition. M. Houette, of the department
of Yonne, has found by experience that the maize should be cut for preservation in
silos as near as possible to its maturity, when it is more nutritive, the ears more
developed, the stalks more firm, and the watery element less predominant. Being
finely chopped before pitting, its fermentation in the silo will soften it and render it
as palatable to animals as the freshly cut maize. He has been able to keep stock
upon it to the last of May, and once as late as July, the fodder being in a condition
but imperceptibly changed from that of its primary fermentation in the silo. Some
SILOS AND ENSILAGE.
183
question has been raised as to the propriety of feeding fodder spoiled in the pits, but
while no indications of injury from feeding it have been developed, it is justly con-
sidered that it is more available as a plant-food than animal food ; hence it is thrown
upon the manure-pile.
Maximum Yields. — The comparative maximum yields of various fodder
plants in France, by M. Leconteaux, is summarized, as showing extreme results, but
those obtained, of the root crops noted, have often been largely exceeded. The
results are given in the table :
NAMES OF PLANTS.
Caragua maize (a tall species of Indian corn),
Sugar beets, ...
Kye-grass witti liquid manure,
jVIarcite meadows of Italy, .... . .
Rutabagas,
Potatoes,
Cabbages, '.
GEASS YIELD
EQUIVALENT IN
PER ACKE.
HAT.
Tons.
Tons.
, 66.96
16.73
35.68
11.63
35.68
8.97
28.85
7.21
21.41
5.35
9.81
4.90
17.8i
3.56
IX. Ensilage in the United States.
'^ Mr. Francis Morris, of Oakland Manor, Maryland, had his attention called to the
subject through a French newspaper early in 1876. On the fix'st of August, that year,
he sowed five acres of corn in drills, at the rate of one bushel of seed to the acre.
Three silos were bricked up inside a stone barn, each being ten feet deep, four feet
wide, and twenty-four feet long (a single silo 12x12x24 would have been better).
Early in October, the corn being in tassel, it was cut with a mowing-machine, drawn
to the silos, cut into inch pieces, and mixed with about one-fifth its bulk of cut straw.
The whole was placed in the silos, and well packed by trarnping as it was put in. It
was covered with boards heavily weighted with stone, and when thoroughly pressed
the weights were taken off, the whole surface covered with straw, and this with clay,
well rammed down, to exclude air. On Christmas day a silo was opened, and the
ensilage given to the milch cows of the farm. Two of them refused to eat it the
first day; the others took kindly to it, and the second day all ate. After that, he
says, horses, mules, oxen, cows, sheep and pigs all ate it from choice.
Had Mr. Morris known at that time the superior methods now usea to exclude
air, his success would have been still better. It was, however, the first fairly
carried out practical experiment in curing ensilage in the United States. "Within the
last few years dairymen in the West have eagerly seized upon the idea, and each year
184
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
sees more and better silos built in all the great dairy districts. The system may
profitably be extended among those interested in other branches of agriculture.
X. Effects of Fermentation in the Silo.
M. Grandeau, a French experimenter, analyzed various specimens, as shown in
the table below — the specimen from Bertin being taken from the silo of Monsieur
Goff art, with the following results :
COMPOXENT PARTS.
Water,
Siigiiv,
Azotized matters, . .
Non-azotized matters,
Fatty matters, . . .
Crude cellulose, . . .
Ashes,
Acid, . . . .
GREEN MAIZE.
MAIZE FKEE FROM
STKAW, PRE-
SERVED IN SILOS,
CHATEAU BEKTIN.
81.28
0.58
1.22
10.40
0.25
4.98
1.29
100.00
81.28
0.15
1.24
9.58
0.36
4 91
2.25
0.23
100 00
MAIZE MIXED
WITH STRAWjPRE-
SERVED IN SILOS
AT CEKSAY.
60.71
1.89
3.74
14.59
1.50
8.70
8. 43
0.44
100.00
STRAW AND
CHAFF FROM
CERSAY.
14.50
4.88
34.52
1..50
3.").50
9.10
100.00
M. Grandeau gives proportion of azotized to non-azotized matters as follows:
In green maize, 1 to 9.24; in maize preserved free from straw, 1 to 8.14; in maize
preserved mingled with straw, 1 to 4.81; in straw, 1 to 7.38.
The fodder preserved with straw at Cer9ay shows a remarkable reduction in its
percentage of water in straw. It also shows a saccharine element three times greater
than that of green maize, while that preserved at Bertin free from straw retains but a
fourth of its original quantity. The Cer9ay fodder also tripled the amount of azotized
matter in the green maize, finding a large supply in the associated straw, while in
the Bertin specimen it was but shghtly increased. Again, the Bertin fodder decreased
its proportion of non-azotized matter, while that of Cer9ay borrowed largely from the
straw. Both kinds of preserved fodder enlarged their proportion of fatty matter;
that of Bertin less than fifty per cent, and that of Cer^ay sixfold. Of crude cellulose,
the Bertin shows a slight decrease, while the Cer9ay about doubled its percentage.
The proportion of ash increased twofold in the Bertin, and nearly sevenfold in the
Cer9ay. Both kinds showed a perceptible development of acid, acetic and lactic. In
the Cer9ay fodder, the maize was mixed with half its quantity of straw. As the
result of his investigations, M. Grandeau came to the conclusion that the combination
of straw with maize added very considerably to the nutritive value of the fermented
fodder.
In a subsequent statement, M. Grandeau explains that the specimen called green
maize in his analysis was partly desiccated by contact with air and sun-heat. This
would more particularly affect its percentage of water. From a specimen freshly
cut, he obtained, by analysis, the following percentages: "Water, 86.20; sugar, 0.43;
azotized matter, 0.90; non-azotized matter, 7.67; fatty matter, 0.18; crude cellulose,
3.67; ashes, 0.95.
SILOS AND ENSILAGE.
185
FiB-.l
M. Grandeau's conclusion in favor of the mingling of straw with the maize
called forth considerable criticism, but after a careful reconsideration of the question
he adhered to his opinion. The transformation of the buried fodder embraces two
important elements of advantage: 1, the transformation of a part of the btarch and
cellulose into sugar; and 2, the enlargement of the azotized matter by the destruction
of a portion of the fecula of the cellulose.
XI. Size of Silos for Certain Numbers of Stock.
While ensilage may be kept more or less perfect in simple pits, eventually the
cost is reduced by the best constructed silos. The silos need not be expensive, but
they must be built thoroughly, because thorough building is cheap building in the
end. The cut shows sections of a double underground silo.
Rations for a Cow. — ^A cow will consume as a full ration from fifty to sixty
pounds of ensilage a day. A cubic
foot of ensilage weighs forty to fifty
pounds, according to the material and
pressure employed. One and a third
cubic foot daily will keep a cow ; one
cubic foot will feed a sheep a week,
and fully one and a half cubic feet will
be required daily for an ox. To feed
a cow six months will require about
two hundred and fifty cubic feet of section of double silo.
ensilage. If you have two cows, a silo 10x10 feet, and ten feet deep, will hold
about twenty-five tons, and be ample for six months' feeding. A silo lOxlOx 30 feet
would keep six cows, on nearly full rations, or double that number when other food
is used to supplement the ensilage — a practice we should advocate in the West, when
other food is cheap. Hence the dairyman feeding half rations, that is, half ensilage
and half other food, could feed thirty cows for six months from a double silo, each
compartment being 12 x 12 feet and thirty feet long. An extra silo would tide double
this number of cows over the usual six weeks of summer droughts.
XII. How to Build a Silo.
Build it so it may be entered directly from the feeding stables, and one-half
below ground. Eight feet below and four feet above, the upper portion banked up
with the excavated earth, would be better. There must be a double door at least five
feet high and three feet wide for ease in emptying the silos, after the first section is
removed to a level with the bottom of the door. The ensilage nearest to the door
should be supported by planks fitting into an inset in the wall, next to the door, to be
removed one by one as the ensilage is taken out.
The Foundation. — The drainage under the foundation should be made perfect
by means of a layer of coarse gravel and tile leading to a point below the bottom of
186 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL
the silo. The bottom and sides should be built of stone, laid in the best hydraulic
cement. If stone cannot be. had, hard-burned brick is the next cheapest good mate-
rial. The bx'icks should be laid in cement and the whole inside and bottom thoroughly
plastered with cement.
The Superstructure. — This may be of lumber and the roof of shingles ; and
if it is carried up one story above the silo, it will afford a useful workshop or room
for storage of any kind. It will pay to finish the building in this way, as the extra
expense will prove to be true economy in the end. The excavation may be mostly
done with the plow and scraper, and the incline afterwards filled in by the scraper as
the wall is built up. The cuts given will serve as a guide, so that any- bricklayer and
carpenter can do the work. Directions for raising the crops to fill the silo will be
found in the chapter on Soiling and Fodder Crops.
XIII. Practical Experience and Results.
In 1882 the Commissioner of Agriculture, Hon. George B. Loring, sent out
twenty-six questions in relation to silos and ensilage, to which nearly one hundred
answers were returned, from fifteen States, east, south and as far west as Nebraska;
also from Canada. The information given in these answers was summarized under
twenty-six heads, making one of the most complete and practical papers ever issued
by the department. Here it is :
1. Location or Silo. — A few have been built at a distance from the stables,
but generally the silos are located with reference to convenience in feeding, in, under,
or adjacent to the feeding-rooms. Local considerations will determine whether the
silo should be below the surface, or above, or partly below and partly above. This is
not essential. Where the stables are in the basement of a bank barn, the bottom of
the silo may be on the same level, or a few feet below, and the top even with the
upper floor. This arrangement combines the greatest facilities for filling, weighting
and feeding.
2. Form of Silo. — With rare exceptions the silos described show a rectangular
horizontal section; a few have the "corners cut off," and one is octagonal. (The
cylindrical form, of which there is no instance in the accompanying statements, seems
to have obvious advantages. If under ground, a cylindrical wall is self-supporting
against outside pressure, and may be much lighter than would be safe in any other
form. If of wood and above ground, the walls may be stayed with iron bands. In
any case, for, a given capacity, the cylindrical form requires the least possible amount
of wall. )
A given weight of ensilage in a deep silo requires less extraneous pressure, and
exposes less surface to the air, than it would in a shallow silo. For these reasons
depth is important. If too deep, there is danger of expressing juice from the ensilage
at the bottom.
Where the ensilage is cut down in a vertical section for feeding, a narrow silo
has the advantage of exposing little surface to the air.
SILOS AND ENSILAGE. 187
3. Capacity of Silo. — The silos reported vary in capacity from 364 to 19,200
cubic feet. If entirely full of compressed ensilage the smallest would hold 9.1 and
the largest 480 tons, estimating 50 pounds to the cubic foot. Practically, the capacity
of a silo is less to the extent that the ensilage settles under pressure. This should
not exceed one-fourth, though in shallow silos, or those filled rapidly and with little
treading, it is likely to be much more. A temporary curb is sometimes added to the
silo proper, so that the latter may be full 'when the settling ceases.
4. Walls of Silo. — For walls underground, stone, brick and concrete are used.
The choice in any case may safely depend on the cost. In firm soils that do not
become saturated with water, walls are not essential to the preservation of ensilage.
Above ground, two thicknesses of inch boards, with sheathing paper between (the
latter said, by some, to be unnecessary), seem to be sufficient, if supported against
lateral pressure from the ensilage.
5. Covering. — A layer of straw or hay will serve in some measure to exclude
air, but is not necessary. Generally boards or planks are placed directly on the
ensilage. The cover is sometimes made in sections two feet or more wide; oftener
each plank is separate. The cover is generally put on transversely, having in view
the uncovering of a part of the silo while the weight remains on the rest. Rough
boards, with no attempt at matching, have been used successfully. A little space
should be allowed between the walls and cover, that there may be no interference as
the settling progresses.
6. Weight. — Any heavy material may be- used. The amount required depends
on various conditions. It will be noticed that practices and opinions differ widely.
The object is always to make the ensilage compact, and thereby leave little room for
air, on which depends fermentation and decay. In a deep silo the greater part is
sufficiently compressed by a few feet of ensilage at the top, so that there is small
percentage of waste, even when no weight is applied above the ensilage. Screws are
used by some instead of weights. The objection to them is that they are not self-
acting, like gravity.
7. Cost. — The cost of silos, per ton of capacity, varies from four or five dollars,
for walls of heavy masonry and superstructures of elaborate finish, and fifty cents
or less for the simplest wooden silos. Earth silos, without wall, can be excavated
with plow and scraper, when other work is not pressing, at a trifling cost.
8. Crops for Ensilage. — Corn takes the lead of ensilage crops. Rye is grown
by many in connection M'ith corn — the same ground producing a crop of each in
a season. Oats, sorghum, Hungarian grass, field peas, clover — in fact, almost every
crop valuable for soiling has been stored in silos and taken out in good condition.
There are indications that some materials have their value enhanced by the fermen-
tation of the silo, while in others there is loss. The relative values for ensilage, of
the different soiling crops, can only be determined through careful tests, often
repeated, by practical men.
All thoughtful farmers would be glad to get more value from the bulky "fodder"
188 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
of their corn crops than is found in any of the common methods. There are
accounts of plucking the ears when the kernels were well glazed, and putting the
fodder into the silo. The value of such ensilage, and the loss, if any, to the grain
are not sufficiently ascertained to warrant positive statements.
9. Planting and Cultivation. — Thorough preparation before planting is essen-
tial. Corn, sorghum and similar crops should be planted in rows. The quantity of
seed-corn varies from eight quarts to a bushel and a half for an acre. A smoothing-
harrow does the work of cultivating perfectly, and with little expense, while the corn
is small.
10. When Crops are at their Best for Ensilage. — The common practice is to
put crops into the silo when their full growth has been reached, and before ripening
begins. Manifestly one rule will not answer all purposes. The stock to be fed and
the object in feeding must be considered in determining when the crop should be
cut. On this point must depend much of the value of ensilage.
11. Yield of Ensilage Crops. — Corn produces more fodder per acre than any
other crop mentioned. The average for corn is not far from twenty tons — which
speaks well for land and culture. The largest yield from a single acre was fifty-eight
tons; the average of a large area on the same farm was only twelve and a half tons.
12. Kind of Corn Best for Ensilage. — The largest is generally preferred;
hence seed grown in a warmer climate is in demand.
13. Sweet Corn for Ensilage. — It is conceded by many that the fodder of
sweet corn is worth more, pound for pound, than that of larger kinds, for soiling.
Some hold that the same superiority is retained in the ensilage, while others think
that the' advantage, after fermentation is on the other side. The sweet varieties
generally do not yield large crops.
14. Preparing Fodder for the Silo. — The mowing-machine is sometimes used
for cutting corn in the field — oftener the work is done by hand. Various cutters,
having carriers attached for elevated silos, are in use, and are generally driven by
horse, steam or water power. Fine cutting — a half-inch, or less — is in favor. It
packs closer, and for this reason is likely to keep better than coarse ensilage. Fodder
of any kind may be put in whole, and, if as closely compressed as cut fodder, will
keep as well, if not better; but it requires much greater pressure.
15. Filling the Silo. — During the process of fining, the ensilage should be
kept level, and well trodden. A horse may be used very effectively for the latter.
Some attach much importance to rapid filling, while others make it more a matter of
convenience. With the packing equally thorough, rapid filling is probably best.
16. Cost of Filling the Silo. — The cost, from field to silo, is vai-iously report-
ed, from thirty-five cents — and in a single instance ten or twelve cents — for labor
alone, to two dollars and upwards per ton ; though the higher amounts include the
entire cost of the crop, not the harvesting alone. There is a general expectation that
experience will bring a considerable reduction in the cost of filling.
It is probable that, with a more general adoption of ensilage, the best machinery
SILOS AND ENSILAGE. 189
will be provided by men who will make a business of filling silos. This could hardly
fail to lessen the cost and bring the benefits of the system within the reach of many
who otherwise would not begin.
17. Time from Filling to Opening Silo. — The ensilage should remain under
pressure at least until cool, and be uncovered after that when wanted.
18. Condition of Ensilage when Opened. — In nearly all cases the loss by
decay was very slight, and confined to the top and sides where there was more or less
exposure to air.
19. Deterioration after Opening. — Generally the ensilage has kept perfectly
for several months, showing no deterioration while any remained in the silo, excej)ting
where exposed for a considerable time. It is better to uncover a whole silo, or com-
partment of a silo, at once, and thus expose a new surface each day, than to cut
down sections.
20. Value of Ensilage for Milch Cows. — Ensilage has been fed to milch cows
more generally than to any other class of stock, and no unfavorable results are
reported. There can be little doubt that its greatest value will always be found in
this connection. Several feeders consider it equal in value to one-third of its weight
of the best hay, and some rate it higher
21. Effects on Dairy Products. — There is a marked increase in quantity and
improvement in quality of milk and butter after changing from dry feed to ensilage,
corresponding with the effects of a similar change to fresh pasture. A few seeming
exceptions are noted, which will probably find explanation in defects easily remedied,
rather than in such as are inherent.
22. Value for Other Stock. — Ensilage has been fed to all classes of farm
stock, including swine and poultry, with results almost uniformly favorable. Excep-
tions are noted in the statements of Messrs. Coe Bros, and Hon. C. B. Henderson,
where it appears that horses were injuriously affected. It should be borne in mind in
this connection that ensilage is simply forage preserved in a silo, and may vary as
much in quality as hay. The ensilage that is best for a milch cow may be injurious to
a horse, and that on which a horse would thrive might render a poor return in the
milk-pail.
23. Daily Eation of Ensilage. — Cows giving milk are commonly fed fifty to
sixty pounds, with some dry fodder and grain.
24. Method of Feeding. — Experiments have been made in feeding ensilage
exclusively, and results have varied with the quality of ensilage and the stock fed. It
is certain that ensilage of corn cut while in blossom,. or earlier, is not alone suffi•
O
O
TEXTILE CROPS AND FIBERS. 203
The Fiber. — This in coarse bagging .would cover, as baling, the whole cotton
crop of the country. The textile strength of flax is rated as double that of East
India jute, and yet, not one-fifth of the flax crop is utilized, although there are many
mills in the West for working the straw, the reason being that other lines of manu-
facture are more profitable. It is, however, an important product for the seed alone,
the ci'op of 1881 being computed at 8,000,000 bushels, from 1,127,300 acres, an
average yield of a fraction over seven bushels of seed per acre. Over 800,000 acres
of this being in the States of Iowa, Indiana, Kansas and Illinois.
XIII. Proper Soil for Flax Seeding.
It has been said that good barley land is good flax land. This means that flax
likes a deep, open, warm, moist loam. In the West, new prairie and old turf lands
are much used. Recent timber clearings are desirable if suitably drained, or any good
corn land, or rich silicious soil in good tilth. Flax will grow well in any moist, deep,
strong loam, upon upland. A hght, sandy soil should be avoided, as well as very low
lands or river bottoms, upon which flax is very liable to mildew. Flax should be put
in after some hoed crop, to be free from weeds. A weedy soil, in any location, should
not be thought of in connection with flax, even when raised for seed alone. If fiber
is also an object, the time and labor will be wasted on such land.
Preparing the Soil. — On old land it is better that a pretty deep plowing be
given in the autumn, and the area lightly replowed just before sowing. For the fiber,
deep plowing is essential. ' To strengthen the fiber, three or four bushels each of
superphosphate^ of lime, plaster, ashes and salt should be applied per acre. The soil
must be brought into the best possible tilth, the seed sown evenly, and covered not
more than half an inch deep. The usual quantity to be sown per acre, when seed
alone is the object, is from one-half bushel to three pecks. One bushel per acre has
given us the best results, since the ground is quickly covered and the crop ripens
more evenly.
Selecting the Seed. — The quality of the seed must be looked to. It should
be clean, bright and heavy. The best time to sow flax is just prior to that of corn
planting, or when the trees are beginning to green. A change of seed is necessary,
since, in the West, the oily qualities rapidly deteriorate. East Indian seed is said to
be the richest in oil, and next, that from Riga (Russian), and Rotterdam (Holland)
is recommended.
Quantity of Seed to Sow. — If lint and seed both are the object, one and one-
half to two bushels should be used. In Europe, where fine lint is raised, three and
even four bushels are sometimes sown. In this country, however, where the principal
object is seed, one and one-half bushels to the acre is the maximum. The yield will
always vary with the season and the quality of the land. The maximum may be
stated ' at twenty-five bushels, but half this quantity per acre is an average even on
rich soil.
204 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
XIV. Harvesting Flax.
The time to harvest is when the lower portions of the stalk turn yellow, or when
the seed-bolls show signs of shedding. Cut with a reaper that will rake off in gavels,
since it is not necessary to bind it, the idea being to cure it as quickly as possible.
Set the gavels up, one leaning against another, in regular rows sufficiently far apart
for a wagon to pass between.
Thresh with a machine having beaters instead of teeth, since the straw is apt to
tangle in the latter.
If the seed is not sold immediately, it should be spread and turned occasionally
until fully dry, or it will heat.
If the straw is to be sold for tow, it should be spread, in October, the product
of about two to three acres upon one of grass land (unless very heavy), and then left
until ready for the mill, say a month or longer. The water-rotting of flax for fine
fiber requires much labor, pools of soft (river or pond) water, and much manipula-
tion. There is, however, so little likelihood that the preparation of water-rotted flax
will soon become an industry of importance in the United States, that the directions
are not worth the space necessary for description.
XV. Hemp and its Cultivation.
Like that of flax, the hemp industry may be said to be declining. When great
navies of sailing vessels traversed the ocean, vast quantities of linen were used for
sails, and of hemp for cordage. Steam has decreased the number of sails, and most
of them now in use are more cheaply made from cotton, and the fibers of other
plants, and iron cordage has largely taken the place of hemp. In some portions of
the country, however, it is still an industry of some importance, but water-rotting of
hemp is not practiced in the United States, on account of the labor required in the
process. When intended for lint it is simply dew-rotted.
The Soil for Hemp. — The soil for hemp must be rich, deep, warm, loamy,
and well drained — such land as will produce with good cultivation, fifty or more
bushels of corn per acre. The seed will ripen perfectly up to forty degrees of
latitude, and usually up to forty-three degrees in the Mississippi valley. The cultiva-
tion of the crop for seed is practiced in some sections, and with profit.
XVI. Raising a Crop of Hemp Seed.
Land intended for seed must be in good tilth and well prepared by careful
plowing. It should be laid off in straight rows, four feet apart each way, and
planted in hills seven or eight seeds to the hill ; the same rules observed for cultivating
corn will apply in the after-culture of hemp seed; when the plants reach the height
of six or eight inches, they should be thinned to from three to four plants.
Male and Female Plants. — Hemp plants are divided into male and female,
the former producing the pollen or impregnating powder, the latter bearing the seed.
TEXTILE CROPS AND FIBERS. 205
A very little observation will enable the grower to distinguish between them. As
soon as the distinction can be made, the male should be drawn up by the root, when
cheap labor can be had, leaving, however, here and there, one that the female plant
may be properly impregnated ; the female is to be retained until its seeds are
perfected, when it is to be harvested by cutting at the ground and removal to cover ;
when cured, the seed may be threshed with a flail, cleaned, winnowed, and put up
in barrels or sacks, perfectly dry, and out of the way of rats and mice until sold.
XVII. Raising Hemp for Lint.
If lint is the object, it is necessary that the seed be raised as directed in the pre-
ceding section, for the lint crop is cut before the seed is formed. The soil must be
prepared by deep and careful plowing, as directed for flax, and as carefully brought
into a state of perfect tilth.
The ground must be free from weeds, or once carefully weeded by hand after the
crop is up. Sow from fifty to seventy pounds of seed per acre, preferably from a
broadcast seeder, or from a centrifugal seeder, to insure even distribution.
The seed ahould not be covered more than half an inch, and it is better, after
sowing, to roll the land with a light roller. The sowing should take place at or
immediately before corn-planting time. The plant, after it is up, is not affected by
light frosts, but the seed itself is liable to rot in cold ground. In good weather the
plants will show in a few days.
XVIII. The Time to Harvest Hemp.
When lint is the object, as is always the case in thick sowings, the time for cut-
ting is indicated in two ways: 1, the crop changes from a deep green to a paler hue,
and, 2, the leaves die and drop, beginning at the bottom. Hemp is of two sexes as
before stated. The male plants bear the pollen and the female plants the seed, as in
the case of spinach. That is dioecious, having staminate and pistillate flowers on dis-
tinct plants. The male plants ripen two weeks before the female.
In the United States, the pulling of the male plants before the female ripen costs
more than will pay the benefit. A good indication of the time for cutting is given by
the pollen of male plants rising in clouds from the field. ' "
Cutting. — The cutting is usually done by a heavy hook made for the purpose,
but large level fields may be cut by a reaping machine, made especially for this use.
J. L. Bradford, of Kentucky, a noted hemp raiser, thus describes the process of har-
vesting, rotting and breaking : If the crop is to be cut with the hook, the operator is
required to cut at once through a width corresponding to the length of the hemp, and as
close to the ground as possible, spreading his hemp in his rear in an even and smooth
swath, where it remains exposed to the sun's rays until the stalk is properly cured,
and the leaves sufficiently dry to detach easily.
The hemp can be shocked with more compactness without the leaves than with
them, and any operation having an influence upon the future security of the staple
206 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
from dampness or atmospheric influence is certainly important ; the perfect detach-
ment of all the leaves should, then, in nowise be omitted. No time should be lost,
after the stalk is cured, in getting the crop up and into neat shocks ; every additional
day's exposure to sun, wind, rain or dew, is deteriorating its quality and subtracting
from its quantity. The brighter the stock can be secured, the better.
XIX. Betting and Breaking for Market.
The same rule will apply to hemp that obtain in securing good hay. The
operator, in taking up the hemp, uses a crook, often a rude stick cut from the branches
of the nearest tree, about the length and weight of a heavy hickory walking-cane,
having at the end of the stick a small branch making a hook. With this primitive
but very effective tool he can rapidly draw the stalks into bunches of the proper size
for sheaves. In operating, he throws his rude hook forward to its full length and
suddenly draws it toward him, each motion making a bunch. This he raises quickly
from the ground and with his hook, by a few well-directed strokes, divests the plant
of its leaves. He then binds his sheaf with its own stalks, and passes on to repeat
the operation.
Shocking. — Other laborers follow and place the hemp into neat, close shocks
of convenient size, securing the top by a neat band made of the hemp stalks them-
selves, after the manner of shocking corn. Here it is suffered to remain until the
whole crop is thus secured as soon as possible, selecting clear, dry weather for the
operation. The whole crop is to be secured by ricking or stacking. The same rules
are to be observed in stacking as with grain, the object being to keep the crop secure
and dry until the projier time for rotting arrives. In the latitude of Kentucky about
the middle of October is the proper time. The crop must be retained in the rick or
stack until the summer heats and rain have passed, and frost appears instead of
dew.
Rotting. — The whole crop is then removed from the rick, and hauled back to
the same ground on which it grew, there to be spread in thin swaths for rotting, where
it remains Without turning until properly rotted. This is indicated by the fiber freely
parting from the stalk, and the dissolution by the action of the elements of the
peculiar substance that causes it to adhere thereto. This stage is only to be learned
to perfection by practical experience ; yet the novice must have some information to
enable him to begin, and it is easily acquired by a little observation.
Bunching. — ^When the operator finds his hemp sufficiently rotted, the wooden
hook is again brought into requisition for once more drawing the swaths into con-
venient bunches. The hemp will have lost much of its weight, and can be bunched
and shocked with less labor than at first; besides, at this last shocking, the binding is
to be omitted entirely, the hemp is to be carefully and neatly handled, all tangling to
be avoided, and placed again in shocks, and firmly bound at the top.
Breaking and Dressing. — Then comes the last and crowning operation — break-
ing and dressing the fiber or lint for the market. The peculiar break to be used, like
TEXTILE CROPS AND FIBEKS. 207
the knife or hook for cutting, needs no description, being manufactured in hemp
regions, at a cost of about five dollars each, and from long experience has been found
perfectly adapted to the uses required. The beginner would save time and money by
ordering a sample break, from which any carpenter can manufacture as desired.
The crop is broken in Kentucky and Missouri, directly fro^ the shock in the open
field by the removal of the break from shock to shock as fast as broken. In the
North, owing to the severity of the climate, it would probably be necessary to remove
the rotted hemp to the barn, where the labor of breaking could be more certainly
performed. The coldest and clearest weather is the best for this operation ; in fact
excess of dampness in the atmosphere suspends this labor altogether. The breaking
irocess is laborious, yet more depends on the skill than on the strength of the laborer.
XX. Conclusions on Flax and Hemp.
The rich lands of the corn zone of the West are far better adapted to the culti-
vation of hemp for the fiber, than more southern latitudes. If water-rotting were
practiced, the fiber would undoubtedly be the best in the world. Ponds and streams
are plentiful, and the high price of ordinary unskilled labor is the only thing against
this process. Other crops, however, are as yet more profitable in this region, and
will continue so to be until the population becomes dense enough to cheapen labor.
Therefore we do not advise the raising of either flax or hemp for fine fiber. Both
flax and hemp raising for the seed are profitable, to a limited extent, up to, and
even above, the 40th degree of latitude.
XXI. Jute and Its Cultivation.
Jute is a plant known in the South for years, under experimental cultivation.
It belongs to the mallow family. The fiber is in many respects superior to that of
hemp. When American skill and ingenuity shall have found means to prepare the
fiber cheaply for the loom, the cultivation of this plant will be a source of great wealth
in the South. The time may soon come when the fibers can be cheaply separated.
Jute (^Ooochrrus) is an annual, the two species cultivated in the United States
being C. capsularis and O. olitorius. The first named being the better. The plants
grow from five to seven feet high, and the quantity of seed sown, broadcast, is, on
rich land, prepared as for flax or hemp, from fifteen to twenty-two pounds per acre.
The plants are cut about three inches above ground, one month before the seed ripen.
The best fiber is raised on deeply drained, moist, rich land. The seed should be
sown as directed for hemp: that is, evenly distributed. The produce is all the way
from 2,000 to 4,000 pounds per acre. The Gulf States contain the region best
adapted to the cultivation of jute, which is thus described by a planter of Louisiana,
one of the pioneers in its cultivation :
XXII. Growth and Harvesting of Jute.
The ground being well tilled and the seed properly sown, on wet days if possi-
ble, the jute is left alone like wheat. No other care than that of drainage is necessary
208 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
until maturity. The cost of that first operation cannot exceed four dollars per
acre, if the material is adequate and the management judicious. That expense, of
course, does not include the value of the seed, because, after the first outlay,
planters will provide themselves with it from the low lands, or from the weak spots
of the plantation. In the bottoms, when we plant in drills for seed, a subsequent
plowing or two will be necessary in the intervals to neutralize the encroachments of
grass. In Louisiana that labor is a necessity principally for the purpose of combating
the tall weed called wild indigo, which occupies the low grounds. That weed, also
fibrous, is the only plant that keeps pace in growth with jute; all other plants are
distanced and smothered by the shade of the jute. In the field, planted broadcast, no
parasite can resist the vigorous and absorbing influence of jute. Even the hardy
and noxious plant, commonly called coco in Louisiana, is destroyed after two seasons
of broadcast cultivation.
Harvesting. — The best period for cutting crops of jute is during the stage that
precedes the blossoming, or, at least, the seeding. The fiber is then fine, white and
strong. The monthly sowing graduates the maturing of the successive crops, which
facilitates labor. April planting can be harvested in July, May planting in August,
and June planting in September. Any late growth can be hai-vested in October, and
even after, if no frost interferes. The plant stands green until frost dries it up; but
even then it can furnish a good material for paper. The cutting operation is done
with a mower or a reaper. The albumen of the plant makes it easier to cut than dry
wheat. The reaper gathering the stems, bundles are made and cai'ried as fast as
possible to the mill, where the textile is rapidly separated.
XXIII. Preparing Jute Fiber.
As fast as the fiber is turned out by the decorticating machine it is plunged into
large vats filled with pure water, and left exposed to the heat of the atmosphere.
Kept under at least one foot of water, the filament is disintegrated by the dissolution
of the guins or resins which united it in a sort of ribbon. That process of fermenta-
tion or rotting takes about a week in summer. With care and attention to the proper
degree of rotting the fiber comes out almost white, lustrous, and fine like flax. The
disintegration is known to be complete when the fiber assumes a pasty character.
Then the rotted hanks are withdrawn, carefully washed in clear water, and hung
up to dry in the shade. Care must be taken that the filament be well covered with
water during the fermenting period, because atmospheric agencies tend to communi-
cate to it a brownish color. After a few days of good weather it is ready to be
shaken and twisted for baling like other textiles. That new process of rotting the
separated filament, instead of whole stalks, combines different profitable results — the
advantages of economy in labor, in value, and also in the integrity of product.
Experiments in South Carolina, Florida and the Gulf States have shown that,
wherever in the Southern States there is a hot, damp climate, and a moist soil of
sandy dny or alluvial mold, jute can be profitably raised. April plantings were cut
TEXTILE CROPS AND FIBEES. ■ , 209
in July, and the June plantings in September. Some of the stalks reached the
height of fifteen feet, and the yield was in several cases at the rate of 3,500 pounds
to the acre, yet this is probably an exception.
XXIV. The Ramie Plant in the United States.
Eamie, sometimes, but incorrectly, called china grass, is known botanically as
Boehmeria tenacissima, and was introduced first into the United States in 1855. Since
that time it has attracted more or less attention, but has never been cultivated with
profit, on account of the cost of sepai-ating the fiber. Several machines have been
invented for this, some mechanically, some with the aid of chemicals, but so far per-
fect success has not. been attained.
Tlie Ramie Fiber. — The fiber is of great luster and fineness, between flax and
silk. It is used with silk and worsted in the preparation of fine fabrics. In China
and India the cost of separating the fiber by hand is about $150 per ton; and the
price in England, for the best prepared ramie, $350. A successful machine for
reducing this fiber would bring the inventor a great fortune. The Dejjartment of
Agriculture (Report for 1879) gives the following, which will be of value to intending
cultivators :
XXV. Soil and Planting.
1. Whether for nursery purposes or for cultivation, the land must be sufficiently
elevated to receive the benefit of natural drainage, because the roots will not live
long in a watery bottom.
2. The soil must be deep, rich, light and moist as the sandy alluvia of Louisiana.
Manure supplies the defects in some lands in these respects.
3. The fields must be thoroughly cleared of weeds, plowed twice to the depth of
eight to ten inches, if possible, harrowed as'much as a thorough pulverizing requires,
and carefully drained by discriminate lines of ditches. Water must not be allowed
to stand in the rows of the plant.
The land being thus prepared, planting becomes easy and promising. December,
January and February are the best months in which to plant. Roots, ratopns and
rooted layers are the only available seed. They are generally four or five inches
long, carefully cut, not torn, from the ipother plant. The dusty seed produced by
the ramie stalks in the fall can be sown, but it is so delicate and requires so much
care during the period of germination and growth that it seldom succeeds in open land.
Furrows five or six inches deep and five feet apart are opened with the plow.
The roots are laid lengthwise in the middle, close in succession if a thick stand of
crop is desired, but placed at intervals if nursery propagation is the object in view.
The first mode will absorb 3,000 roots per acre, but will save the labor of often
filling the stand by propagation. The second mode will spare three-fourths of that
amount of roots, but will impose the obligation of multiplying by layers. Being
placed in the furrow closely or at intervals, the roots are carefully covered with the
hoe. Pulverized earth and manure spread over the roots insure an early and luxuriant
growth in the spring. Wben the shoots have attained a foot in height they are hilled
14
210
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
up like potatoes, corn and all other plants that require good footing and protection
from the fermenting effect of stagnant water. The intervals between the rows being
deepened by the hilling have also a draining influence, which can be rendered still
more effective by ditches dug across from distance to distance, say fifteen feet.
XXVI. Bamie is a Perennial Plant.
Good crops are obtained by thickening the stands. The stems are then abun-
dant, fine, straight, and rich in fiber. Close planting is then necessary, inasmuch as
is prevents the objectionable branching of the stalks. The period at which the plant
is ripe for cutting is indicated by a brownish tinge at the foot of the stems. The
first cutting may be unprofitable on account of the irregularity and sparseness of the
growth ; but if the stand is razeed and manured over the stubbles the ensuing cuttings
will be productive. For that purpose the field must be kept clear of grass until the
growth is sufficiently dense to expel the parasites by its shade. That necessary den-
sity is obtained by means of the important laying process. This consists in bending
down, right and left along the growing stand, the highest
switches, and in covering them with earth up to the under
tip, which must not be smothered. One of the causes of
the perennity and of the vigor of the plant is the nourish-
ment it draws from the agencies of the atmosphere. Con-
sequently the leaves of the layers should never be buried
under ground. When properly performed, laying is very
profitable; it creates an abundance of new roots, and fills
up rapidly the voids of the stand.
After two years the plants may be so thick as to spread
out in the rows. Then the plow or the stubble-cutter has
to chop in a line, on one side, the projecting ratoons. If
well executed, this operation leads to notable advantages.
It extracts roots or fractional plants suitable for the exten-
sion of the cultivation elsewhere; it maintains, as a pruning,
a vigorous life, and develops a luxuriant growth in the
stand. If always applied on the same side of the row, this
sort of stubble-cutting has the remarkable advantage of re-
moving gradually the growth toward ther unoccupied land in
the intervals, and of pushing it into a new position without
disturbance.
That slow rotation preserves the soil from rapid exhaus-
tion, and the i-amie from decay, through the accumulation of roots under ground.
Of course this lateral plowing will not prevent the opposite row from receiving the
benefit of hoeing after each crop. Experiments made in Louisiana have demonstrated
the efficiency of that method, to which are due the preservation and propagation of
the plant in that State, while it has been destroyed in other sections for want of
similar care.
KAMIE— ROOTS AND STEM,
THKEE MONTHS' GEOWTH.
CHAPTEK VII.
SILK AND SILK- WORMS.
[. SILK CULTURE IN AMERICA. II. SILK-PRODUCING INSECTS. III. FROM THE EGG TO THE MOULT.
IV. VARIETIES OF THE SILK-WORM. V. KEEPING AND HATCHING THE EGGS. VI PREPARING TO
FEED THE WORMS. VII. FEEDING AND CARE OF SILK-WORMS. VHI. MOULTING OR CASTING THE
SKIN. IX. WINDING FRAMES ON WHICH THE WORMS SPIN X. KILLING THE WORMS. XI. REEL-
ING THE S1,LK. XII. MARKETING COCOONS AND EGGS. XIII. FOOD OF THE SILK WORM. XIV.
RAISING MULBERRY TREES.
I. Silk Culture in America.
M||HE art of rearing and feeding the larvae of the silli-worm and reeling the fiber
^^g of the cocoons in which the egg has been previously killed, by baking, is
'^^ called Sericulture. When the cocoons are raised in a small way by the children
of a family, the baked cocoons are usually sold to the manufacturers. The
following condensed history will be interesting:
In Virginia. — The industry has been followed in America spasmodically since
the cultivation of the mulberry was first encouraged in Virginia, by James I. The
coronation robe of Charles.II. was spun from cocoons raised in Virginia. A state robe
was made for Queen Caroline, in 1735, from silk grown in Georgia, and in 1749 the
export of cocoons from the American Colonies, South, reached 1,000 pounds. The
industry flourished steadily under a royal bounty until 1766, when the export was
20,000 pounds. The bounty being withdrawn the industry declined.
In the Nortll. — In the latter part of the century the North became interested.
In 1770 Dr. Franklin sent seeds, cuttings of mulberry trees and silk-worm eggs to
Pennsylvania for distribution, and the next year a silk manufactory was established
in Philadelphia. In New Jersey, New York, Connecticut and Massachusetts, mulberry
groves were more or less extensively planted, but the Revolutionary war put an end to
the industry. It was revived in the beginning of the present century, so that over
10,000 pounds of cocoons were, in 1819, produced in Mansfield, Connecticut, alone.
In 1840 the total domestic silk production in the United States was estimated at
■60,000 pounds, worth over $4 per pound. In 1844 the make was 400,000 pounds,
worth $150,000. From this time the industry again languished, and in 1850 only
14,673 pounds were produced.
The writer in 1832-36, then a boy, fed silk-worms in New Jersey from the
street and pasture mulberry trees, the remains of the pre-revolutionary days, and in
1839 in northern Illinois from leaves gathered from the native mulberry, occasionally
found growing on the sandy bottoms of the Calumet river. With the decline of the
mu
212 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Multicaulis mania, which began in 1840 and raged some years, silk culture declined,
and until within the last ten years but little attention was paid to it.
Where Most Profitable. — The fact is, feeding the mulberry silk-worm cannot
be profitable north of the 40th degree. Kansas, Mississippi and California are now
the three principal nuclei of this growing industry. This last State, would, from its
mild climate, seem eminently adapted to the industry. At the late French Exposition,
California cocoons were among the finest shown. The leaf of the mulberry there
attains the highest excellence in texture, and there is as a natural result excellence in
the fiber of the cocoons. During the feeding season, Jrom June to October, there is
exemption from rain, and no electric or other meteorological changes check the growth
or kill the silk-worms. Loss there is said yet to be almost inappreciable, while in all
other silk-producing countries it is rated at from twenty to thirty-three .per cent.
Care Necessary. — The rearing of silk-worms entails much care and labor, and
hence all should be warned not to rush into this industry without due investigation,
and a careful study of its possibilities.
II. Silk-Producing Insects.
All insects which weave cocoons for the protection of their eggs produce a
species of silk. Spiders produce silk exceedingly fine and strong, but they are
solitary, kill and eat each other when colonized, and are not gregariou^. The common
basket worni, which feeds indiscriminately upon deciduous trees, forms silk, but it
must be carded, thus destroying its principal value. The ailanthus silk-worm (^Attacus
cynthia) is a good silk-producing insect; is acclimated in this country, but experi-
ments with it so far have not been conclusively satisfactory. Our native polyphema
or cecropia yields good silk.
Various insects of the genus Bombyx from Senegal, China and Bengal, and one
from Japan, which latter feeds on the oak, have been received by the Department of
Agriculture in Washington, but are considered of no greater value than our cecropia.
The probability is that the true mulberry silk-worm (sericaria mori) will continue to
be in the future, as it has been for ages past, in some of its many cultivated varieties,
the most profitable. The perfect insect is a moth — scaly-winged insect — and belongs
to the family called spinners. These have been broken by cultivation into numerous
varieties, the qualities sought to be intensified being subjection to confinement, and
quality of the silk product.
III. From the Egg to the Moult.
The intending cultivator of silk must study the nature and habits of the insect,
the proper food, the manner of feeding, curing the cocoons and reeling the silk.
This we propose to present in the most condensed form possible, since to give all
these things in full detail would require a volume larger than this whole book. The
practical points are all that is necessary for the beginner. The habits of the insects
and their proper management have been carefully studied by Dr. Riley, United
States Entomologist. From his reports we take the following facts:
SILK AND SILK-WOEMS.
213
SILKWORM LAEVA FULL GROWN.
Stages of the Worm. — The silk-worm exists in four states — egg, larva, chrys-
alis, and adult or imago. The egg of the silk-worm moth is called by silk-raisers, the
seed. Its color when first deposited is yellow, and this color it retains if unimpreg-
nated. If impregnated, it soon
acquires a grey, slate, lilac, violet,
or even a dark-green hue, accord-
ing to variety or breed. It also
becomes indented. When diseased
it assumes a still darker and dull
tint. As the hatching point ap-
proaches, the egg becomes lighter in color.
Just before hatching, the worm within becoming more active, a slight clicking
sound is frequently heard, which sound is, however, common to the eggs of many
other insects. After the worm has made its exit by
gnawing a hole through one side of the shell, this last
becomes quite white. Each female produces on an
average from three to four hundred eggs, and one
ounce of eggs contains about 40,000 individuals. It
has been noticed that the color of the albuminous fluid
of the egg corresponds to that of the cocoon, so that
when the fluid is white the cocoon produced is also
white, and when yellow the cocoon again corresponds.
The Moults. The worm goes through from three to four moults, the latter being
the normal number. The periods between these moults are called ages, there being five
of these ages, including the first from the hatching and the last from the fourth moult
to the spinning period. The time between each of these moults is usually divided as
follows: The first period occupies from five to six days, the second but four or five,
the third about five, the fourth from five to six, and the fifth from eight to ten. These
periods are not exact, but simply proportionate.
The time from the hatching to the spinning of the cocoons
may, and does, vary all the way from thirty to forty days, depend-
ing upon the race of the worm, the quality of the food, mode of
feeding, temperature, etc. ; but the same relative proportion of
time between moults usually holds true. The preparation for each
moult requires from two to three days of fasting and rest, during
which time the worm attaches itself firmly by the abdominal prolegs.
In front of the first joint a dark triangular spot is at this time
noticeable, indicating the growth of the new head; and when the
term of sickness is over, the worm casts its old integument, rests a
short time to recover strength, and then, freshened, supple and
hungry, goes to work feeding voraciously, to make up for lost time.
SILK- WORM MOTH.
COCOON
214 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
IV. Varieties of the Silk-Worm.
Domestication has had the effect of producing numerous varieties of the silk-
worm, every different climate into which it has been carried having produced either
some changes in the quality of the silk, or the shape or color of the cocoons ; or else
altered the habits of the worm. Some varieties produce but one brood in a year, no
matter how the eggs are manipulated; such are known as Annuals. Others, known
as Bivoltins, hatch twice in the course of a year; the first time, as with the Annuals,
in April or May, and the second, eight or ten days after the eggs are laid by the first
brood. The eggs of the second brood only are kept for the next year's crop, as
those of the first brood always either hatch or die soon after being laid.
The Trevoltins produce three annual generations. There are also Quadrivoltins,
and in Bengal, a variety known as Dacey which is said to produce eight generations
in the course of a year. Experiments, taking into consideration the size of the
cocoon, quality of silk, time occupied, hardiness, quantity of leaves required, etc.,
have proved the Annuals to be more profitable than any of the polyvoltins.
Varieties are also known by the color of the cocoons they produce, as Greens,,
or Whites, or Yellows, and also by the country in which they flourish. The white
silk is most valuable in commerce, but the races producing yellow, cream-colored or
flesh-colored cocoons are generally considered to be the most vigorous.
Japanese Eggs the Best. — Owing to the fearful prevalence of pebrine among
the French and Italian races for fifteen or twenty years back, the Japanese Annuals
have come into favor. The eggs are bought at Yokohama in September, and shipped
during the winter. There are two principal varieties in use, the one producing white
and the other greenish cocoons, and known respectively as the White Japanese and
the Green Japanese Annuals. These cocoons are by no means large, but the pods are
solid and firm, and yield an abundance of silk. They are about of a size, and both
varieties are almost always constricted in the middle. Another valuable race is the
White Chinese Annual, which much resembles the White Japanese, but is not as
generally constricted.
V. Keeping and Hatching the Eggs.
The eggs should be kept in a cool, dry room in tin boxes to prevent the ravages
of rats and mice. They are most safely stored in a dry cellar, where the temperature
rarely sinks. below the freezing point, and they should be occasionally looked at to
make sure that they are not affected by mold. If, at any time, mold be perceived
upon them it should be at once rubbed or brushed off, and the atmosphere made drier.
If the tin boxes be perforated on two sides and the perforations covered with tine
wire gauze, the chances of injury will be reduced to a minimum. The eggs may also,
whether on cards or loose, be tied up in small bags and hung to the ceiling of the
cold room. The string of the bag should be passed through a bottle neck, or piece of
tin, to prevent injury from rats or mice. The temperature should never be allowed to
rise above 40° Fahr., but may be allowed to sink below freezing point without injury.
SILK AND SILK-WORMS. 215
Hatching. — They should be kept at a low temperature until the mulberry
leaves are well started in the spring, and great care must be taken as the weather
grows warmer to prevent hatching before their food is ready for them, since both the
Mulberry and Osage Orange are rather late in leafing out. One great object should
be, in fact, to have them all kept back, as the tendency in our climate is to prema-
ture hatching. Another object should be to have them hatch uniformly, and this is
best attained by keeping together those laid at one and the same time, and by winter-
ing them as already recommended, in cellars that are cool enough to prevent any
embryonic development. They should then, as soon as the leaves of the food plant
have commenced to put forth, be placed in trays and brought into a well-aired room
where the temjDerature averages about 75° Fahr.
Heat and Moisture. — The heat of the room may be increased about two
degrees each day, and if the eggs have been well kept back during the winter, they
will begin to hatch I'nder such treatment on the fifth or sixth day. By no means must
the eggs be exposed to the sun's rays, which would kill them in a very short time. As
the time of hatching approaches, the eggs grow lighter in color, and then the atmos-
phere must be kept moist artificially by sprinkling the floor, or otherwise, in order to
enable the worms to eat through the egg-shell more easily. They also appear fresher
and more vigorous with due amount of moisture.
Ventilation. — The building in which rearing is to be done should be so arranged
that it can be thoroughly and easily ventilated, and warmed if desirable. A northeast
exposure is the best, and buildings erected for the express purposie should, of course,
combine these requisites.
VI. Preparing to Feed the Worms.
When the business of rearing silk-worms is carried on extensively, proper build-
ings and appliances must be provided. The directions in this volume are intended
simply for the use of families who incline to the industry, and have an airy spare
room where the rearing may be carried on. Here only simple means will be employed.
The author used to feed them in a well-ventilated attic, and had no trouble with
disease, which has been so troublesome to silk-growers of late. Each day's hatching
should be kept separate, that the moultings may be equal and regular in each colony.
Shed Feeding. — Open or shed feeding has been employed with some success
for family establishments. This, however, confines the whole business, particularly
in the Northern States, to one or two crops in the season. In the South more can be
successfully fed.
These sheds may be cheaply made, by setting posts in the ground, from six to
eight feet high, with a roof of shingles or boards. The roof should project two feet
over the sides. There should be some protection to the ends and sides of the shed, as
strong cotton cloth sewed together, with small rods across the bottom which will
answer as weights, and also as rollers, which by the aid of a pulley may be rolled up
or. let down at pleasure.
216 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
The width of the sheds must be governed by the size of the hurdles or feeding
trays used. The length according to the extent of the feeding contemplated.
Feeding-Shelves. — In fitting up the hurdles or feeding-shelves for a building
twenty feet wide, it will require a double range of posts two and a half or three
inches square, on each side of the center of the room, running lengthwise, and the
length of the shelves apart, in the ranges, and each two corresponding posts, crosswise
of the ranges, about the width of the two shelves apart. On each double range across
the posts are nailed strips, one inch or more in width and about fifteen inches apart,
on which the trays or hurdles rest, which may be drawn out or slid in as may be found
necessary in feeding. The aisles or passages of a building of the above width will be
four feet each, allowing two feet for the width of each single hurdle.
The hurdles are of twine net-work. A frame is first made five feet long and two
feet wide of boards seven-eighths of an inch thick, and one and a half inches wide.
There should be two braces across the frame at equal distances of five-eighths by
seven-eighths of an inch square. On a line about half an inch from the inner edge
of the frame are driven tacks nearly down to their heads, at such distances as will
make the meshes of the net about three-quarters of an inch square. .Good hemp or
flax twine is passed around these tacks, forming a net by passing the filling double
over and under the warp, or that part of the twine that runs lengthwise. This twine
should be somewhat smaller than that running lengthwise. On a damp day the twine
becomes tight; then give the netting two good coats of shellac varnish. This cements
the whole together and renders it firm and durable. The varnish is made by dissolving
a quantity of gum shellac in alcohol in a tin-covered vessel, and placed near the fire.
It should be reduced, when used, to the consistence of paint.
Another set of frames are made in the same way and of the same size, and
covered with strong cotton cloth; this is secured with small tacks. Upon these the
net frames rest, which serve to catch the litter that falls through from the worms.
Hurdles made and supported in this manner admit of a free circulation of air, and
the litter is then less liable to mould or ferment, and can be removed and cleaned at
pleasui'e.
VII. Feeding and Care of Silk- Worms.
The eggs upon the papers or cloths will hatch in an atmosphere raised gradually
from seventy to seventy-five degrees, in nine or ten days. But few worms will
make their appearance on the first day, but on the second and third the most will come
out; should there be a few remaining unhatched on the fourth day they may be
thrown away, as they do not always produce strong and healthy worms. When the
worms begin to make their appearance, young mulberry leaves cut into narrow strips
should be laid over them, to which they will readily attach themselves; these should
be carefully removed and placed compactly upon a cloth screen or tray, prepared for
them, and other leaves placed upon the eggs, for the worms that still remain, which
should be passed off as before. A singular fact will be observed, that all the worms
SILK AND SILK-WORMS.
217
will hatch between sunrise and before noon of each day. Care should be taken to
keep the worms of each day's hatching by themselves, as it is of the greatest
importance to have the moultihgs and changes of all the worms as simultaneous as
possible. . '
Young and tender leaves should be selected to feed the worms with ; these should
be cut with a sharp knife into pieces not exceeding a quarter of an inch square, and
evenly sifted over them. They should be fed in this way six or eight times in
twenty-four hours, as near as possible at regular and stated periods, and it should be
unnecessary to say that all access by rats, mice and birds must be shut off from the
feeding-place.
Move and spread the worms every day, except when they are moulting. Feed
often with fresh leaves, give all the air you can, so that they do not blow away.
After the first moulting, feed with short, tender twigs. They are easily moved and
spread with the twigs in the morning when they are hungry. If they are neglected
while young it is useless to feed them when they are old. After they pass the second
moulting, if fed with care, they will eat the leaves so clean that they will need to be
moved but once between each moulting, and that should be done just before they
moult; but should their bed become foul, move them by all means.
VIII. Moulting or Casting' the Skin.
If the worms are well fed, not too thick on the papers, and the weather warm,
they will moult nearly at the same time; that is, each day's hatching, and when they
are kept separate and the papers marked first, second and third day, etc., you can
feed them as they ought to be fed, and when they commence winding you can put up
the bushes for them to wind in,
as each lot commences. They ''-<:
will not all need them at once,
as they would if all ages were
mixed. When all the frames
commence winding at once they
cannot be attended to in time,
and many worms will be lost if
there is no place provided for
them. They will crawl over
the frames and waste their silk ;
even if they make a cocoon it
will be of but little value.
After the third moulting, feed
with branches as long as they will lay on the frames. Keep the bed as even as
possible. Let no leaves hang over the frame, lest some of the worms crawl out on
them, others will cut them off, and leaves and worms will fall together to the
ground.
PIEDMONTESE SILK REEL.
218 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
When the worms get too large to lift with the branches, and they want moving,
place five strips, three-eighths or one-half inch square, across the frames (the frames
are three by four feet), the strips are three feet four inches long; so as to extend
two inches over the frame on each side. Sift lime lightly over the whole bed till it
is all white, worms and all; then lay branches lengthwise of the frame across the five
strips. After feeding a few times the worms will all be on a new bed ; they will not
stay among the lime in the old bed. They are then ready to move.
Have a few duplicate frames ready ; lay two sheets of heavy brown paper that
will cover the frame : if you could get one large enough to cover the frame it would
be better. Give the worms a good feed, and as they come upon the upper bed,
place two strips, four feet long, under the ends o'f the five cross strips. Two persons
can then raise the worms up, while the third person slips the frame and the old bed
out.and puts one of the duplicates in its place. The worms can then be let down, and
they will keep eating as if nothing had happened. If it becomes necessary to move
them suddenly, have four or five sharp-pointed sticks, slip them through the bed of
branches just below the worms ; then proceed as before. Pick off what few worms
remain on the frame; throw off the litter, and the frame is ready for the next
move.
IX. Winding Frames, on which che Worms Spin.
A LIGHT frame, the length of the hurdles, two feet and four incnes wide, and
made of boards one and a half inches wide, is filled crosswise with thin laths about
one inch apart in the clear, and answers the twofold purpose of winding frame and
mounting ladder.
When the worms are about to spin, they present something of a yellowish
appearance ; they refuse to eat and wander about in pursuit of a hiding-place, and
throw out fibers of silk upon the leaves. The hurdles should now be thoroughly
cleaned for the last time. The lath frames are used by resting the back edge of the
frame upon the hurdle, where the two meet in the double
I'ange, and raising the front edge up to the under side of
the hurdle above, which is held in its place by two small
. .,„„„„.„» wire hooks attached to the edge of the hurdle, showing
LATH 1 RAME. _ O ' O
an end view thus:
A covering of paper or cloth should be applied to the lath frames. In using the
hurdles and screens, remove the screen from under the hurdle, turning the other side
up, and letting it down directly upon the winding frame. During the spinning the
temperature of the room should now be kept at about eighty degrees, as the silk does
not flow so freely in a cool atmosphere. The frame resting upon the back side of each
hurdle renders this side more dark, which places the worms instinctively seek, when
they meet with the ends of the laths and immediately ascend to convenient places for
the formation of their cocoons. From these frames the cocoons are easily gathered,
free from litter and dirt, and when they are required they are put up with great
expedition.
SILK AND SILK- WORMS.
219
Next to lath frames, small bunches of straw afford the best simple accommoda-
tion for this purpose. Take a small bunch of clean rye straw about the size of the
little finger, and with some strong twine tie it firmly about half an inch from
the butt of the screw; cut the bunch off about half an inch longer than the
distance between the hurdles. They are thus placed upright with their butt ends
downwards, with their tops spreading out, interlacing each other, and pressing
against the hurdles above. They should be thickly set in double rows about sixteen
inches apart, across the hurdles.
After the most of the worms have arisen, the few remaining may be removed to
hurdles by themselves. In four to six days the cocoons may be gathered. While
gathering, those designed for eggs should be selected. Those of firm and fine texture
with round hard ends are the best. The smaller cocoons most generally produce the
male, and those larger and more full at the ends, the female insect. Each healthy
FRENCH SILK-REELING MACHINE.
female moth will lay from four hundred to six hundred eggs. But it is hot always
safe to calculate on one-half of the cocoons to produce female moths. Therefore it
is well to save an extra number to insure a supply of eggs.
X. Killing the Worms.
This is done by subjecting the cocoons to heat. If baked, the cocoons are
put in shallow baskets, placed in iron pans, and subjected to a temperature of
two hundred degrees (not more), and kept there until the humming noise within,
entirely ceases. Or the cocoons may be put in air-tight boxes, and taken to a steam
mill, and the steam turned on for about twenty minutes. They may also be killed
by subjecting them to a very hot sun for several days, carrying them under cover at
night. But they must afterwards be thoroughly air-dried to prevent putrefaction.
220
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
PLA>fE VIEW OLD FEENCII REEL.
XI. Reeling the Silk.
In family sericulture it will not pay to reel. The cocoons had better be sold
direct to the manufacturer, although carefully reeled silk is worth, per pound, enough
more to pay fairly for the labor. One pound of reeled silk is made from three and
two-thirds pounds of dry cocoons, in which the worms have been choked. It will
hardly be necessary to describe the reeling of the silk, since those who go into silk-
worm raising extensively enough
ri fj c to permit reeling, can readily
make themselves acquainted with
the whole matter by instructions
from the sellers of the machine.
The illustration shows a French
reel, and the one combining the
principles upon which ail are
founded. The automatic electrical silk-reeler invented by Mr. Serrell, formerly
of New York, now of Lyons,
France, may do for the indus-
try what the cotton gin did for
cotton, and the reeling of silk
become profitable in the United
States. The illustrations of the
old French reel and of the
Piedmontese reel in this chapter
are given more as cui'iosities than for their practical utility.
XII. Marketing Cocoons and Eggs.
The following is a computation made by Dr. Riley, and published in 1878, of
results for two adults, man and wife, for six weeks in the culture of silk-worms :
Average number of eggs per ounce, 40,000.
Average number of fresh cocoons per pound, 300.
Avei"age reduction in weight for choked cocoons, 66 per cent.
Maximum amount of fresh cocoons from one ounce of eggs, 130 to 140 pounds.
Allowing for deaths in rearing — 26 per cent, being a large estimate — we thus get,
as the product of an ounce of eggs, 100 pounds of fresh or 33 pounds of choked
cocoons.
Two adults can take charge of the issue of from 3 to 5, say 4, ounces of eggs,
which will produce 400 pounds of fresh or 133 pounds of choked cocoons.
Price per pound of fresh cocoons (1878), 50 cents. .
Four hundred pounds of fresh cocoons, at 50 cents, $200.
Price per pound of fresh cocoons (1876), 70 cents.
Four hundred pounds of fresh cocoons, at 70 cents, $280.
SECTIONAL VIEW OLD FRENCH REEL.
SILK AND SILK-WORMS. 221
Actual sales in Marseilles, December, 1878, of choked cocoons, 15 francs per
kilogram, or $1.66 per pound, which for 133 pounds choked cocoons would be $220.78.
Price per pound of choked cocoons '1876\ $2.25 ; 133 pounds of choked cocoons
at $2.25, $299.25.
Freight, packing, commissions, and other incidental expenses, say $25, .making as
the return for the labor of two persons for six weeks, at the present low prices,
$195.78.
Calculating on the basis of $1.50 per pound of choked cocoons, which as shown
in the following estimates, a reeling establishment in this country could afford to pay,
we get approximately the same amount, viz, $199.50.
The same gentleman also gives estimates ujDon raising eggs as follows:
Average number of eggs in an ounce, 40,000.
Maximum number of cocoons for one ounce of eggs, 40,000.
One-half of these, or 20,000, are females.
Number of eggs laid by each female, say 300.
Quantity of eggs from one ounce, 6,000,000, or 150 ounces.
Deducting as probable loss from all causes combined, one-half, we have 75
ounces.
Price of eggs in Europe, $2 to $5; say, $3 per ounce.
Amount realized on one ounce, $225.
On the basis of the first estimates two adults could take charge of the issue from
four ounces of eggs. These would yield the sum of $900, and, even after allowing
for the first cost of eggs, trays, commission, freight (which is light), extra time and
labor (say another month), and incidental expenses, it leaves a very excellent return.
XIII. Pood of the Silk-Worm.
Besides their regular food, silk-worms will eat young, tender lettuce and Osage
orange. It is a waste of time, however, to attempt to rear worms on lettuce. If they
hatch too early, they may be fed on lettuce for a few days, until other leaves appear.
Very young leaves from the tree must not be fed to the worms, except when they are
themselves young. Wet leaves must in no case be fed. Hence, in rainy weather a
supply of leaves must be on hand, or else they must be artificially dried before being
fed. So, in feeding Osage orange, after the worms become partly mature, the soft
and terminal leaves must not be fed. Dr. Riley says, neither of our indigenous mul-
berries is suitable for food. He is probably correct. The experiment made by the
writer, in Illinois, in 1839, with the red mulberry, was not successful.
The white mulberry {Morus Alba), the variety known as multicaulis, and the
black mulberry {M. Nigra) are valuable, and in the order named. The Moretti, a
dwarf variety of the white mulberry, is said to be valuable from its abundance of
large leaves. The Russian mulberry has lately been extolled, but not enough experi-
ments have yet been made to determine its value.
222 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
XIV. Raising Mulberry Trees.
To raise silk-worms one must first have the leaves. The mulberry, especially the
white and multicaulis, grows readily from layers or cuttings. Set these in rows four
feet apart, for ease in horse cultivation, and six inches apart in the row. When large
enough to transplant, or when one or two years old, take out the plants, leaving the
trees in the original plantation in squares four feet by four. As the plants again
crowd, take out every other row and transplant. Thus in a short time you may have
plenty of trees for foliage. In transplanting it is better to cut down the trees to
within one foot of the ground. Transplant ten or fifteen feet apart, and, keep them
dwarfs by annual cutting back.
CHAPTER VIII.
SPECIAL CROPS— HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES.
I. HOP GKOWING IN AMERICA. II. COST OF RAISING. III. ESTABLISHING A HOP YARD. IV. THE
PROPER SITUATION AND SOIL. V. PREPARING FOR THE CROP. VI. TRENCHING THE SOIL.
VII. SETTING THE PLANTS. VIII. CARE OF THE HOP YARD. IX. CULTIVATION IN CROP YEARS.
X. PICKING THE HOPS. ^Xl. DRYING THE HOPS. — -XII. MiiJSTAGEMENT IN THE KILN.— XIII. THE
CULTIVATION OF TOBACCO. XIV. SOILS AND SITUATION FOR TOBACCO.— XV. THE TRUE TOBACCO
BELT. XVI. RAISING THE CROP SOUTH. -XVII. TR^VNSPLANTING, CULTIVATING AND WORMING,
XVIII. THE SEED BED. ^XIX. RAISING PLANTS NORTH. XX. PREPARING THE LAND. XXI.
PLANTING AT THE NORTH. XXII. PROPER WAY TO TRANSPLANT TOBACCO. XXIII. CULTIVA-
TION. -XXIV. CUTTING AND CURING TOBACCO. XXV. THE TOBACCO HOUSE. XXVI, TWELVE
RULES FOR TOBACCO GROWERS. XXVII. PEANUTS, OR GOUBERS. XXVIII. THE CULTIVATION
FOR PEANUTS. XXIX. GATHERING THE NUTS. XXX. AFTER-MANAGEMENT AND CARE OF SEED.
XXXI. SWEET POTATOES. XXXII. FIELD CULTURE OF SWEET POTATOES. XXXIII. KEEPING
SWEET POTATOES IN WINTER. XXXIV. GARDEN CULTIVATION.
I. Hop Growing in America.
^l||HE hop prevents fermentation, and adds an agreeable bitter to beer, ale and
^^ porter. To these qualities it owes its commercial value, England, Germany,
W Austria and the United States being the principal sources of supply. In 1840,
the quantity produced in the United States was 1,238,502 pounds. In 1850,
this had increased to 3,496,850 pounds, of which the State of New York alone gave
2,536,299 pounds. In 1860, 11,010,012 pounds were grown, and two years later
the crop exceeded 16,000,000 pounds.
About this time, western farmers awoke to the profits of hop culture, and in
1867 the crop had, in some parts of this region, reached enormous proportions.
Wisconsin, which has much valley land favorable to the cultivation, produced during
the year named, 7,000,000 pounds, of which Sauk county alone gave 4,000,000,
worth $2,500,000.
In 1869, the hop crop of the United States was no less than 25,456,669 pounds',
and from that time the acreage steadily increased. In 1876, it was over 60,000
acres, almost equaling that of England, then the greatest hop-producing country of
the globe. In 1877, the year of largest production, the yield was 110,000 bales, of
which 95,000 bales were exported. The acreage of the great hop-growing countries
is as follows: United States about 70,000 acres; England, 68,000 to 70,000 acres;
continental Europe, 76,000 acres. The year 1878 was a disastrous one to hop
raisers, insects and meteorological conditions combining to ruin much of the crop.
11. Cost of Raising.
In the West the product has often been enormous; 1,000 pounds per acre not
being unusual, and the cost to the farmer as low as six cents a pound. In the
[223]
224 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Eastern States, the cost varies from twelve to fifteen cents, while in Kent, the famous
hop district of England, the average cost of producing one hundred pounds is esti-
mated at $24.30, or twenty-four and one-third cents per pound. The following
figures given by a prominent hop-grower in Sauk county, Wisconsin, in the flush
time of 1876, will explain the epidemic in the West. The hop yard contained four
acres, the capital invested, including land, fixtures, poles, kilns, presses, etc., was
$2,000. For 1877, his second year, his statement is as follows: interest on capital,
ten per cent, $200; cultivation, setting poles, etc., $100; harvesting, curing, etc.,
$943; total expenses, $1,243. Eeceipts for 11,520 pounds of hops at sixty cents
per pound, $6,912; net receipts for hop roots, $3,040; total receipts, $9,952; net
receipts, $8,709, or 435 per cent on original investment.
III. Establishing a Hop Yard.
The principal reasons for failures of the hop crop, in the West, especially, are
inexperience in the preparation of the land, careless cultivation, and the neglect of
prompt measures to prevent the depredations of insects. A crop of hops pays a
large sum of money per acre, and much labor must be spent to get it. The hop plant
is always propagated by sets, or sections of the roots, and never from the seeds un-
less the operator wishes some n«w variety.
IV. The Proper Situation and Soil.
Never put the hop yard in a situation where there is not a free circulation of '
air, and at the same time exemption from violent winds. , Avoid all cold, tenacious,
poor or wet soils. Any of these will cause failure. In England the best hops are
produced in the Farnham district, upon the outcrop of the upper green-sand, and on
a deep diluvial loam lying in the valleys beneath ; in East Kent, upon a rich, deep
loam, resting upon the upper chalk and plastic clay; in Mid Kent, upon the ragstone
rock of the lower green-sand ; in West Kent, chiefly upon an outcrop of the upper
green-sand and gault, and in the Hill Grounds, upon the upper chalk; in the Weald
of Kent and Sussex, upon Hastings sand of the Wealden formation; and in the
Worcester district, upon the marls of the new red sandstone.
In the United States a deep, rich, sandy loam, tolerably firm, thoroughly well
drained, rich in lime, the phosphates, potash and humus is the best — soil that will
produce large crops of wheat, and one that will, not heave from freezing and thawing.
If you have these conditions, or can make those you do not naturally have, including
protection, "go ahead." If not, "go slow."
V. Prepaiang for the Crop.
The best English authorities have established the following rules in preparing
the soil for hops, setting and cultivating, which we have adapted to 'American prac-
tice: Having chosen the site for a new plantation, the grouftd is trenched, or subsoil-
plowed, and the holes dug, early in October. The plants are raised by cutting off the
Diagrams showing the Acreage and Value of Tobacco, Sugar
Cane, Hops and Rice in the United States.
(OFFICIAL.)
Products
VALUE
Quantity Produced
nice
t 7,000,000
Pouiids 110,000,000
Hops
L
. «,<)00,UOO
J
Pou,ids
30,000,IM0
Sugar Pr(j(li
cts
28,000,(X)0
Sufjiir Pounds
Molassr.s Gallor
200,000,000
s 17,000,(X)0
Tobacco
44},(NHI,IM)()
I'<>u.i-U l:,il,iHHl.(KH)
SPECIAL CROPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES. 225
layers, or shoots, of the preceding year. These should have been bedded out in the
preceding March or April, in ground previously trenched and well manured, which,
by autumn, will have become what are termed " nursery plants," or bedded sets;
or the cuttings themselves are planted out the same year ; but this plan is not recom-
mended, although less expensive, since, in a dry spring, there is great risk of their
dying.
If the nursery plants be used, it is desirable to set them early. When cuttings
are used, they are planted in squares, or triangles, at equal distances, generally from
six to seven feet apart. The triangular planting possesses an advantage over the
square, as, when three poles to a hill are employed, it allows the hop cultivator more
completely to move all the ground on the outside of the poles, which is a matter of
some importance. With regard to distances, as a general rule, six feet is preferred
for square planting, and six and one-half feet for triangular. For very fertile grounds,
the distances are further increased, sometimes to nine feet in square planting, having
poles from twenty to thirty feet in length. In all these matters, however, the exer-
cise of judgment is required.
VI. Trenching' the Soil.
Trenching is considered to be, in the first instance, the preferable mode of pre-
paring the ground, especially when meadow or pasture land is to be broken up, where,
indeed, it is almost indispensable. In this, as in every other case where trenching is
adopted, care is taken not to bury the surface-soil too deeply, but leaving it within
reach of the spade, when the ground is dug over the following year. Very deep
trenching for hops, even when the top-soil is not buried deeply, is not advisable, and
unless the soil is rich, plenty of well-rotted manure should be trenched under. Very
deep plowing answers well, if the land be taken from arable cultivation, provided if
be in a clean condition.
When the ground has been trenched or subsoiled, if it be in " good heart," no
manure is required at the time of planting; but if the ground be poor, it is desirable
to dig small holes, about a foot square and fifteen inches deep, and put into the bot-
tom of each hole a spit of good dung compost, or a few rags, hair, or any kind of
animal refuse, but on no account to use guano or the salts of ammonia at this period.
When large holes are dug as a substitute for trenching, it is almost always advisable
to put in some manure, which should be mixed up with the soil, instead of being
placed at the bottom of the holes.
VII. Setting the Plants.
If nursery or bedded sets are employed, one, two or three plants may be used to
form a hill, according to the strength of the plants. One is sufficient, if it be a large,
strong, healthy plant, and if great pains and attention be bestowed upon the subse-
quent management. When cuttings are used, it is safest to plant five to each hill,
which should be dibbled in around one as a center. Each cutting should have an inch
of earth between it and its fellow. In the planting of new grounds, attention should
15
226 THE H03IE AND FARM MANUAL.
be paid to the introduction of a sufficient number of the male plants. One hill in two
hundred, or about six on an acre, are considered ample. They ought to be planted at
regular and known intervals, in order that, in subsequent years, the cuttings saved
from these grounds may not become indiscriminately mixed. The introduction of
these male plants is a matter of extreme importance, and ought on no account to be
neglected ; for it is an established and indisputable fact, that the grounds which pos-
sess them are more prolific, and bring the hops to maturity earlier than those planta-
tions which are deficient in them, and, in addition to these advantages, the hops are of
a better quality.
The subsequent cultivation of a new plantation requires constant attention. The
ground must always be kept quite clear of weeds, and should have a good depth of
pulverized soil. In the latter part of the spring, a light pole about six or seven feet
high above ground, should be placed to each hill, if planted with "nurseries," and
about four feet high if planted with cuttings ; to these, the young vines, as they shoot
out during the summer, must be tied up. At the end of May, or the beginning of
June, unless the ground is new and rich, a dressing of guano and superphosphate of
lime should be applied, at the rate of 300 pounds of the former and 100 pounds of the
latter per acre. This should be placed in equal quantities around each hill and hoed
in, taking care not to allow any of the mixture to come in contact with the plant.
Another and similar manuring should be applied in July, and after this, the hills should
be earthed about six inches. The above quantities of fertilizers may appear extrava-
gant, but it must be borne in mind that young hops cannot be too strong; for, unless
they be very strong, they will not come into full bearing the next year. This
recommendation is the result of a long and extensive experience. The cost, too, is
often x'epaid in the same j'ear, by the growth of 200 or 300 pounds of hops per acre.
When the hops from these nursery grounds are picked, the vines must not be cut,
but the hops must be gathered from the sticks, as they stand, into small baskets. The
vines and poles of this young plantation should not be removed until late in autumn,
or when the plants have entirely ceased growing. Whatever the age, nothing should
be done except when the soil will "work in a perfectly friable condition. It is
especially dangerous to the crop to work the soil when wet.
In the West, where land is not so valuable as in England or the Eastern States,
we advise wide planting. It gives greater ventilation and ease of horse cultivation.
In England, where the climate is moist, planting is done in raised hills. In the' West,
if the land is well drained, level cultivation is best. Dwarf varieties should be
selected, since they are richer in the constituents which make hops valuable.
In setting the plants, manure should not be put in the hill, especially new,
unfermented barn-yard manure, but a richer soil may be added on thoroughly worked
old compost if the ground is not rich. The roots of the sets should be spread out
caiefuUy, fine mold put around them, the soil pressed firmly and the earth heaped
over them. Each hill should have two poles. In England the number is determined
by the kind of hop. The Farnham, Canterbury White, and the Goldings are strong
SPECIAL CROPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES. 227
growers, and require large poles, from fourteen to twenty feet long. The Grape
varieties are smaller and need poles not exceeding ten to fourteen feet in length.
VIII. Care of the Hop Yard.
Lay out the ground in regular rows seven or eight feet apart by plowing or
checking perfectly straight furrows each way. Manure should not be used in the
hill when setting the hops, but, if necessary, very rich earth may be added. It is
usual to place five cuttings in a hill. Three plants may be allowed for the distances
here given, though two plants to stand are enough. The first year the yard may be
planted with corn, potatoes, or any similar crop, between the vines, the hops being
tied temporarily to short poles as previously directed, and the cultivation may be hill
or flat according to the drainage or other features of the field. In well-drained soils
not too retentive, fiat culture is the best. Pn the autumn two good shovels full of
well-rotted compost manure over the crowns wiU serve to protect the plants during
winter, besides enriching the soil and giving the plants a vigorous start in the spring.
IX. Cultivation in Crop Years.
After the first season, the hops should occupy the whole soil. Two poles are
allowed to each hill ; these should be sharpened true and set deep enough with the bar
to prevent danger of being blown down when weighted with hops. They are better
if inclined apart at the tops.
When the hops appear above ground two of the best should be selected for each
pole, and, when they reach a height of two feet, be tied thereto with stocking-yarn,
bast, prepared x'ushes, or other suitable material. All other vines should be cut just
beneath the surface of the ground. The cultivation is simply to keep the surface of
the soil clean and mellow, to destroy all weeds and supernumerary vines that may
appear, to tie the vines to the pole until they twine and support themselves, and to
watch for and destroy all insects that may appear.
X. Picking the Hops.
The Enghsh rule is that the hops are ripe when the seed has changed from a
bright straw color to a pale brown, and emits its peculiar fragrance. Another rule is
to pick when the hop becomes hard and crisp to the touch ; when the extreme petal
projects prominently at the tip of the hop ; when the color is changed from a light
silvery green to a deep primrose or yellow; and when, on opening the flower, the
cuticle of the seeds is of a purple color, and the kernel, or seed itself, hard, like a nut.
Even after the hop has attained a lightish-brown color no real injury to its quality will
have accrued, and, for many purposes, such hops are most esteemed in the market ;
but after the hops generally attain a dark-brown hue there will be a great loss, both
in quality and weight. When in a proper stage of ripeness, four pounds of undried
hops will make one of dry, and five pounds, scarcely ripe, are required to make one
when dried. Before picking time the hop-grower should secure all necessary aid; and
228
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
that aid, when promised, under no circumstances should fail, as it so often does, in the
harvesting of other crops. The hops are commonly picked in large boxes, containing
from twenty-four to forty bushels. These boxes are divided lengthwise by a thin
partition, and then subdivided into quarters. They are raised a little from the
ground, and have handles at the ends.
One man and four girls are allowed to each box. Each hand deposits the hops
in his or her own division of the box, and a good hand can pick twenty bushels in a
day without difficulty. They are generally paid by the quantity, at so much for the
box-full. It is the business of the man to supply the boxes with poles, which he
raises from the ground as needed, cutting the vines about a foot high ; to see that the
picking is properly done, to remove the empty poles, clear them of the vines, and
stack them in a systematic manner. In picking, the hops should be kept free from
stems and leaves, and all blasted or immature ones should be rejected. The boxes
should be emptied at least once a day; at all events, no hops should be left in the
boxes over night.
HOP lOLN OR DKY HOUSE.
The picking finished, the poles are stacked wigwam fashion and bound at the
tops, or else stacked so that nothing but the lower ends will appear; they must be
kept from the ground.
XI. Drying the Hops.
In California and other dry, sunny climates, hops are sometimes dried in the
sun, but in the end, it is everywhere cheapest to build a kiln or dry-house. This may
be a simple affair, the lower room containing a stove, with as much radiating pipe as
possible, and a room above with a slotted floor, upon which the hops are dried on
cloths. A regular kiln, such as is used for curing malt, is better, when charcoal, coke
SPECIAL CROPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES. 229
or anthracite coal can be used for fuel. Hops being from three-fourths to four-fifths
water, soon spoil if kept in bulk in a green state. Hence the kiln is worked day
and night, and the hops pressed into bales, of two hundred pounds each, as soon
as dry.
The Drying Eiln. — The best form of kiln for drying hops is undoubtedly one
square and tight to prevent the escape of the heated air except at the ventilator in
the roof. Paper orifices, regulated by sliding doors, are left near the ground to
admit cool air to be warmed. The heat for ordinary farm use may be stoves, with
plenty of pipe running around the heating-room. The illustration shows a dry-house
twenty-two by thirty-two feet, with a kihi sixteen by sixteen feet. The stove-room is
twelve by twenty-two and two and one-half feet lower than the level of the kiln.
The drying-floor should be ten feet from the ground so that there may be no danger
of scorching the hops in drying. This floor is formed of slats about one and a half
inch each in width, and the same distance from each other. They are covered with a
strong, coarse cloth, of open texture, so as to admit of a free transmission of the
heated air from the kiln below. The drying-room should be of comfortable height
for a person to work in it, and the sides should be lathed and plastered so that there
may be no irregularity of the heat in the different portions of the room in high winds.
The cloth for the drying-floor should be well stretched over the slats and firmly
nailed. On this floor the hops are spread to the depth of six or eight inches. The
proper thickness will depend somewhat on the condition of the hops ; if they are very
full of moisture, they should be laid on quite thin; but if gathered when fully ripe,
and in fine weather, a depth of ten inches will be allowed.
XII. Management in the Kiln.
The hops being spread as evenly as possible, the fires are immediately kindled in
the kiln, and the temperature regulated to one uniform degree of heat. This,
however, may be quite high at first, as there will be at that time but little danger of
scorching the hops if the floor is sufficiently high. If the hops are rusty, or discol-
ored from any other cause, it is usual to burn a little sulphur under them, which will
bring them to a uniform appearance. This is done as soon as the hops are well
warmed through, and feel somewhat moist. Great prejudice formerly existed against
the use of sulphur in drying hops, but no objection is now made by the brewers, and
it is generally thought that the use of it improves the appearance of all hops, and
that it also facilitates the drying. During the drying processthe fires should be kept
up, and there should be a free supply of fresh air below, sufficient to keep up a
regular succession of heated air from the kiln, passing through the hops and out at
the ventilator, carrying with it the vapor expelled from the drying hops.
Dried by Hot Air. — Mr. Morton, the well-known English authority, states the
principal points in drying hops. The great object with the hop-drier, he says, is to
get rid of the condensed vapor from the green hops as quickly as possible, and the
dry-houses should be so constructed as to effect this object perfectly. It must be
230 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
borne in mind that hops should be dried by currents of heated air passing rapidly
through them, and not by radiation of heat. This is a distinction of the utmost
importance, since success is entirely dependent upon a strict adherence to the former
principle. In order to accomplish this effect, the space above the hops must be kept
hot, and all the lower parts of the kiln cold, whereby the greater density of the cold
air will force the rarefied air above, carrying with it the vapor from the hops, through
the aperture or cowls upon the summit of the building. To aid this ascent of the
heated air passing through the hops, a stream of heated air is sometimes thrown
above the hops through a tube, thus adding greatly to the heat of the current passing
through the hops, and giving it a greater ascending power.
After Drying. — When sufficiently dried the hops should be allowed to cool off
a little, if time can be afforded, otherwise there will be great danger that they will
break in moving, or a portion of them shell off and waste. Ten or twelve hours
are required to dry a kiln of hops. Two kilns may be dried in twenty-four hours
by keeping the heat up through the night. A twenty-foot kiln will thus dry four
hundred bushels in a day, as they come from the vines, making about seven hundred
and fifty pounds of hops when dry. Do not let the heat slacken, but rather increase
it, until the hops are nearly dried, lest the moisture and sweat which the fire has
raised fall back and discolor the hops. For these reasons chiefly it is that no cool air
should be suffered to come into the kiln while the hops are drying. After the hops
have lain about seven, eight or nine hours, having left off sweating, and leap up
when beaten with a stick, then turn them with a malt shovel or scoop made for that
purpose ; let them remain in this situation for two or three hours more, until every hop
is equally dried. They must not be turned while they sweat, for that will scorch
and cause them to lose their color ; the fire may be diminished a little before they
are turned, and renewed again afterwards; the heat should be kept as equal as pos-
sible. It may be of service to use a thermometer, by marking upon it the degree of
heat proper for drying hops, as soon as that degree is ascertained by experiment.
The Cooling-Roora. — Mistakes are often exceedingly detrimental to the hops,
and great attention is required by the drier, night and day, until finished. When they
are thoroughly dry, which is known by the brittleness of the inner stalk (if rubbed
and it breaks short), the fire should be put out and the hops taken from the kiln into
the cooling-room. Here they should be spread out, not exceeding twelve inches in
depth, and in a day or two will be ready to bale. Care should be taken to exclude a
drying air from the cooling-room. The hops being dried, the next process is to bale
them. This should not be done immediately after they are taken from the kiln, but
they should be allowed to lie a few days in the store-room, till they become a little
softened, otherwise their extreme brittleness will cause them to be much broken in
baling, and the sample be thereby greatly injured.
We have been particular in describing all the minutiae of cultivating, curing and
baling hops, for they are important. No one should undertake this industry unless
he is prepared to carry out the directions to the minutest detail.
SPECIAL CROPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES. 231
XIII. The Cultivation of Tobacco.
The tobacco crop of the United States is every year increasing in importance,
and it is the belief of the writer, that in the valleys of some of the hill regions of the
South will yet be found soils that will produce leaf equal to Havana tobacco. The
product is sought the world over. It is one of the great money crops of the United
States, and its area of production is constantly spreading wherever suitable soils are
found, from Massachusetts to California, and from Wisconsin to the Gulf States. To
show the value of the tobacco crop it may be mentioned that in 1869 the crop of the
United States amounted to about 324,000,000 pounds against, in round numbers,
412,000,000 pounds in 1870; 410,000,000 in 1871; 505,000,000 in 1872; 502,000,000
in 1873; 358,000,000 in 1874; 520,000,000 in 1875; 482,000,000 in 1876; and
581,500,000 in 18,77. Afterwards this enormous production fell off, and in 1880 it
was 446,296,889 pounds, worth $36,414,615.
It is not safe for farmers to rush into the business unless they have a soil and
chmate suited to the crop, and have also informed themselves thoroughly upon the
best modes of cultivation and management. Proper houses for curing and packing
the tobacco must also be provided. The plant will ripen wherever the Concord grape
will, but it does not therefore follow that any soil that will produce the Concord grape
will produce good tobacco. There is no plant that is more susceptible to influences of
soil and situation than tobacco.
XIV. Soils and Situations for Tobacco.
Tobacco requires a deep, rich, thoroughly drained, friable soil, strong in potash
and niter. A rich humus loam is usually rich in these constituents, if it be produced
from a granite soil. Sandy loams are preferable, but whatever the soil, the situation
must be protected from sudden changes of temperature, and especially from blowing
winds, which would bruise the delicate leaves by whipping them about. Hence, pro-
tected valleys are always sought.
If the soil is not naturally rich in potash, nitrogen and the phosphates, it must be
made so. Valley lands, protected from high winds, are excellent, and if manure can be
had cheap, rather, light sandy lands, if not too dry, will make good crops. However
good the land, manure will help it, since it costs little if any more to take care of an
acre of good land, producing up to 2,000 pounds per acre, than one producing 800 to
1,000 pounds, and the large, choice leaves of uniform quality will sell for much more
per pound, than the light, thin leaves. In fact, the measure of success in tobacco
culture lies in the difference between six or seven cents per pound, and twenty-five
or thirty cents per pound. The first will lose money; the latter will make money
fast. No acre should produce less than 1,500 pounds, if the crop is going to pay.
Not even then will the farmer make money if he raises five and six cent tobacco.
XV. The True Tobacco Belt.
The belt of country in which the best tobacco is grown in the United States lies
232 THE HOME AND FARM MANXJAL.
between thirty-six and forty degrees, though much of the best cigar tobacco is
grown in the West, well north, in Wisconsin, about the latitude of forty-three
degrees. The best manufacturing tobacco, plug and chewing, is raised in Kentucky
and Missouri. Virginia and North Carolina raise fine tobacco for smoking in pipes,
and some of the Florida soils are celebrated for a cigar tobacco, second only to that
of Cuba.
The principal producing States are Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri and
Ohio. Kentucky produces by far the largest quantity. In the Centennial Exposition
twenty-one States were represented, which besides the hung-leaf exhibited ninety
specimens of pressed leaf, the best sample being from Virginia. In cigar tobaccos,
Connecticut produces the best, and Wisconsin the next best tobacco, if we except
Floi'ida, which produces comparatively a small quantity, but of a high grade for
cigar wrappers and fillers.
What the country west of Arkansas and Missouri may do in the cultivation of
tobacco (excepting California, which produces an excellent article), is yet to be
learned. It is thought that Arizona contains lands that will produce leaf of the
best quality.
XVI. Raising the Crop South.
The principles of tobacco raising are, of course, the same everywhere. Proper
attention to the condition of the soil, judicious selection of plants, careful setting,
thorough cultivation, effective precautions against the cut-worm in the spring, careful
wonning during the season of the tobacco worm, topping in season, removmg
suckers and pruning (removing the leaves next the ground) are all necessary. How
this is done is well told by a southern tobacco planter of large experience. He
says:
Plenty of Plants. — Select good land for the crop ; plow and subsoil if in
autumn to get the multiplied benefits of winter's freezes. This cannot be too strongly
urged. Have early and vigorous plants and plenty. of them. It were better to have
one hundred thousand too many than ten thousand too few. To make sure of them
give personal attention to the selection and preparation of the plant bed, and to the
care of the young plants in the means necessary to hasten their growth, and to protect
them from the dreaded fly.
Manure Liberally. — Collect manure in season and out of season, and from
every available source — from the fence corners, the ditch-bank, the urinal, the ash
pile. Distribute it liberally. Plow it under (both the home-made and the commer-
cial) in February, about four inches deep, that it may become thoroughly incorporated
in the soil, and be ready to answer to the first and every call of the growing plant.
Often (we believe generally) the greatest part of manure applied to tobacco — and
this is true of the bought fertilizer as well as that made on the farm — is lost to that
crop from being applied too late. Don't wait to apply your dearly-purchased guano
in the hill or the drill from fear that, if applied sooner, it will vanish into thin air be-
fore the plant needs it. This is an exploded fallacy. Experience, our best teacher.
SPECIAL CROPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES.
233
has demonstrated that stable and commercial manure are most effective when used in
conjunction. In no other way can they be so intimately intermixed as by plowing
them under — the one broadcasted on the other — at an early period of the preparation
of the tobacco lot.
Spring Cultivation. — Early in May (in the main tobacco b^lt between the
thirty-fifth and fortieth parallels of north latitude), re-plow the land to about the
depth of the February plowing, and drag
and cross-drag, and, if need be, drag it
again, until the soil is brought to the finest
possible tilth. Thus you augment many
fold the probabilities of a stand on the first
planting, and lessen materially the subse-
quent labor of cultivation. Plant on lists
(narrow beds made by throwing four fur-
rows together with the mold-board plow)
rather than in hills, if for no other reason
than that having now, if never before, to
pay wages in some shape to labor, whenever
and wherever possible horse-power should
be substituted for man-power — the plow for
the hoe. Plant as early as possible after a
continuance of pleasant spring weather is
assured. Seek to have a forward crop, as
the benefits claimed for a late one from the
fall dews do not compensate for the many
advantages resulting from early maturity.
Make it an inflexible rule to plant no tobacco
after the tenth of July, in the tobacco belt we have named. Where one good crop is
made from later planting ninety-nine prove utter failures.
TOBACCO PLANT IN BLOSSOM.
XVII. Transplanting, Cultivating and Worming.
Take pains in transplanting, that little or no re-planting shall be necessary.
The cut-worm being a prime cause of most of the trouble in securing a stand, hunt it
assiduously, and particularly in the early morning when it can most readily be found.
Keep the grass and weeds down, and the soil loose and mellow by frequent stirring,
avoiding as much as possible cutting and tearing the roots of the plant in all stages of
its growth, and more especially after topping.
There are few cultivated plants more beautiful when in blossom than the tobacco
plant, as the illustration will show. The white line shows the proper place for topping,
to be varied according to the circumstances, and to be explained hereafter. When at
all practicable — and, with the great improvement in cultivators, sweeps and other
farm implements, it is oftener practicable than generally supposed — substitute for
234
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
hand-work in cultivation that of the horse. The difference in cost will tell in the
balance-sheet at the close of the operation.
Worming. — Attend closely to worming, for on it hinges in no little degree the
quality and quantity of tobacco you will have for sale. A worm-eaten crop brings
little money. So important is this operation that it may properly claim more than a
passing notice. Not only is it the most tedious, the most unremitting and the most
expensive operation connected with the production of tobacco, but the necessity for
it determines more than all other causes the limit of the crop which in general it has
been found possible for a single hand to manage. Therefore bring to your aid every
possible adjunct in diminishing the number of worms.
TOBACCO WORM MOTH.
Killing the Moth. — Use poison for killing the moth in the manner so frequently
described in treatises on tobacco, to wit : by injecting a solution of cobalt or other
deadly drug into the flower of the Jamestown or jimson weed (^Datura stramonium),
if necessary, planting seeds
of the weed for the purpose.
Employ at night the flames of
lamps, of torches, or of huge
bonfires, in which the moth
may find a quick and certain
death. In worming, spare
those worms found covered
with a white film or net-like
substance, this being the co-
coon producing the ichneumon fly, an enemy to the worm likely to prove a valuable
ally to the planter in his war of extermination. Turn your flock of turkeys into the
tobacco field, that they, too, may prey upon the pest, and themselves grow fat in so
doino-. If these remedies should fail, sprinkle diluted spirits of turpentine over the
plant through the rose of a watering pot, a herculean task truly in a large crop, but
TOBACCO WORM, LAEVA.
SPECIAL CROPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES.
235
mere child's play to the hand-picking process, for the one sprinkling suffices to keep
off the worms for all time, whereas hand-picking is a continual round of expensive
labor from the appearance of the first worm until the last plant has been harvested.
Turkeys. — The writer's experience in raising tobacco in the North is that hand-
picking is the only sure means of killing the worms. It costs money and time, but
the difference in the leaf and the crop, in price, is what ensures profit. Turkeys are
indefatigable hunters of the tobacco worm, and they will kill them after their
hunger is satisfied.
Topping. — The topping of the plants must be attended to in season, just at the
time the buds appear. Prom eight to twelve leaves should be left to each plant,
according to the richness of the soil. This will give strong growth, but the grower
must exercise his judgment here
weak ones.
XVIII. The Seed-Bed,
It is better to have few strong leaves than more
Growing the plants is one of the most important things in tobacco culture.
Without good, healthy plants, failure is prettj'^ certain. In the South a warm,
sheltered situation of well-drained land is selected. This should be
carefully dug over in the autumn or winter when dry, and so covered
with brush that the soil Tnay be burned deep enough to kill the weeds
lying near the surface. The beds may be burned over in February,
March or April, according to the locality, and immediately sown, since
the seed will not sprout until the earth has the proper temperature.
Sowing. — ^After burning, hoe and rake the surface thoroughly, to
a depth of two or three inches, and leave the surface fine and smooth.
Mix the seed with dry ashes, at the rate of a large tablespoonful for
each eighty square yards, and sow evenly, rake lightly, or better, tamp
the whole carefully over with the rake, the handle being held upright.
Cover carefully with brush, but not so as to exclude the sun. As soon
as the plants require weeding, remove the brush carefully, at the same
time thinning the plants where they stand too thick. In this way you
will get fine, well-rooted plants for setting.
XIX. Raising Plants North.
In the North, raising plants is more difficult. The season is so short that
the crop is often late in ripening. If the plants are placed in too warm a border
they are apt to become chilled or killed by frost, and are seldom large enough for
setting by the first to the tenth of June. "We have always had the best success by
raising the plants in a cold frame — a compartment of boards sixteen inches high at
the back, sloping to ten inches in front, covered with sashes, and containing four or
five inches of fine compost soil.
Caring for the Plants. — The seed may be sown in this bed about the first of
April, and are easily cared for, readily protected against the fly, by dusting with soot
PUPA OF
TOBACCO WOEM.
236 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
or • fumigating with smoke. They are also thoroughly protected against frost at
night, or too much wet, and are easily watered when necessary. If given plenty of
ventilation to keep them growing slowly and healthily, and if exposed to the full
influence of the air during the day, for two or three weeks before setting, they make
stronger and better rooted plants than any grown out of door
The writer's plan wks to start in a small hot-bed, and when the plants had leaves
as large as a mouse's ear, to prick them out, two inches apart, in a cold frame.
Thus we always had plants of uniform size for the first setting, and a bed of pricked-
out plants, in a warm, open border, furnished plants for succession and filling in,
when the stand had been destroyed by worms or otherwise. Every square foot will
contain thirty-six plants, and the space required for an acre is not as large as at first
would seem necessary.
Transplanting. — Transplanting in the North should not be undertaken until
cucumbers and melons will germinate and grow promptly, or until both days and
nights are warm. In untoward seasons plants are set until about the first of July.
From the first to the fifteenth of June is the proper time in Wisconsin, and a little
earlier in Northern Illinois; about the first of June is the best time in the New Eng-
land States. Of seed-leaf tobacco from five thousand to six thousand plants are set
per acre, and of Havana six thousand to seven thousand, according to the size of
plants your seed will produce.
XX. Preparing the Land.
In the North the ground for tobacco should always be deeply fall-plowed, turning
under a liberal quantity of barn-yard manure. If the land has not been previously
manured, twenty loads of fine manure should also be carted and spread in winter
to ensure richness near the surface. About ten days before planting-time this should be
turned under about four inches deep and the surface brought to an uniformly fine tilth.
Marking the Land. — Mark the land in straight lines three feet apart, and with
a single horse-hoe or double mold-board plow run through these marks, thus bedding
up the land. Eun a harrow over the ridges lengthwise and then a plank to bring all
fine and smooth. You will, then have a succession of flat, slightly raised beds upon
which to plant.
If you mark these beds crosswise, three feet apart, you will get 4,840 plants per
acre. This is space enough for the largest Connecticut or Maryland tobacco. If you
mark your squares two feet you will have 7,200 plants per acre, and this is cjose
enough for the smallest Havana plants. Thus you may graduate your distances to
accommodate plants of any size that one season's cultivation will show, according to
the richness of the soil or variety of tobacco cultivated. It should always be remem-
bered that the closer you grow your plants, according to soil, the better the crop as
a rule.
Smaller Squares. — Or if you choose to make your beds three and a half feet
apart, then by marking across the beds thirty inches apart you will get 4,976 plants
SPECIAL CEOPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES. 237
per acre. Marked two feet apart there will be 6,223 plants; if twenty incnes apart
in the row 7,467 plants per acre.
XXI. Planting at the North.
Directions for planting, general cultivation, care, harvesting, drying, stripping
and packing tobacco will apply to all parts of the country, allowances being made
for differences in latitude and other conditions. Many tobacco growers pull the
plants when the leaves are the size of one's thumb-nail, and simply press them into
the ground when it is wet. This is never done. North or South, by the best cultiva-
tors. We give the best plan, and in the end it is the cheapest, because it is the best.
Never wait for rain in transplanting anything, provided the ground is in a fairly
moist condition ; that is, f riably moist, or not really dry. Water the plants thor-
oughly in the bed, and as soon thereafter as the soil can be worked, take out enough
plants for the day's planting, beginning at about three o'clock in the afternoon, or
if the weather is cloudy, work all day. Plant as late at night as you can see.
Havana seed plants have long roots like cabbage, and are not so easy to set as Con-
necticut seed-leaf, which has fibrous roots. Hence it is better to prick them out.
XXII. Proper Way to Transplant Tobacco.
When the plants have leaves about the size of a silver dollar, let a careful hand
take them up and bring them to the field as wanted, arranging them in baskets on wet
moss, so they can be easily handled and covered with a fold of damp cloth. The
ground being properly marked, the planter takes a plant, makes a hole for it with one
or two fingers, inserts the roots, pressing the earth firmly around it, but leaving a
depression to hold a little water. This an assistant supplies from a water-can with a
spout. If the earth is in good condition a gill is enough for each plant; if the soil is
pretty dry more water must be given, and always in the depression which is left
about the roots.
Thus the hands, as many as are necessary, go on working
with a deftness that is learned only by practice, and covering
a large area of ground in a day. When the water has dried
down, other hands, girls preferably, smooth the soil nicely to
the plants, covering the watered surface with fine dry mold.
The plants should be set as shown in the annexed cut;
they will seldom suffer for want of moisture, and in ordinary
weather will grow right along. It is the cheapest way in the
end, and by no means slow, for an active hand will set 5,000
plants in a day. And when the work is thus done, in the best
possible manner, there will be no baking or drying of the soil
about the roots. This is true of plants of every kind and
should be remembered. In setting on these raised beds the tobacco plant
tobacco plants should be rather below the level of the surface, peoperly set.
for as soon as the crop is fairly growing a little earth should be dressed up to them.
238 THE HOME AND FARM MANljAL.
XXIII. The Cultivation.
All other cultivation should be the same as that for corn or other hoed crops,
thorough and frequent. No weeds dare be allowed at any time. In an average
season the plant will mature sufficiently by the early part of August to dispense with
further cultivation, but until the ground is fairly shaded, the cultivation must be
thorough. When the plants have from fourteen to sixteen leaves, or when they
begin to throw up the blossom shoots, pinch off the tops, and from time to time, as
the suckers appear, pinch them out before they attain a length of three inches. If
the suckers are allowed to remain, they will reduce the growth of the true leaves.
The necessity of watching for, and killing cut-worms, after the plants are set,
and destroying the horn (tobacco) worms as fast as they appear has already been
pointed out. These must be attended to or the crops will be seriously damaged and
may be ruined. No man should undertake to cultivate tobacco or any other special
crop unless he is prepared to spend the time and money necessary to do everything in
the best manner, since, upon this depends the ultimate profits. In the North the
worm, larva of the tobacco sphinx, and also that of the tomato worm, an allied species,
appear about July first, and feed on the leaf until the crop is secured. In fact, they
frequently, if not picked off clean, cling to the leaves after the stalk is hung up.
Usually, from three to four weeks from the time of topping, the plant will mature
and be ready to cut.
Uniform size of leaves, and a stiffness of the leaf, making it liable to break by
bending and handling, are the surest signs of maturity. The lower leaves change
color, and in some varieties the leaves present a spotted or mottled appearance. This
must be carefully studied, and the beginner would do well to employ a man competent
to judge, and who is also familiar with handling, hanging, drying, stripping, bulking
and packing the crop. Otherwise, the beginner should experiment in a small way
until he learns. Nowadays, however, the crop is usually sold in bulk, in the North,
the buyer attending to the casing and shipping himself.
XXIV. Cutting and Curing Tobacco.
The time to cut must be determined by the condition of the crop. Sometimes
it ripens unevenly. In this case, the portion that is ripe must be selected first. If the
crop ripens up handsomely, it is better to cut altogether, since the inferior plants left
are apt to be whipped and injured by the wind. The stalk is severed with a heavy
knife (similar to a corn stalk knife), just above the ground, and at a single blow.
Each stalk is laid on the ground to wilt, but it must not be long exposed to the sunt
especially if it is hot; nor must it be cut with the dew on.
Cut after the dew is off, but not during the middle of the day, when the sun is
bright, as you must guard against burning while it is undergoing the wilting process,
preparatory to spearing and handling in the removal to the shed. When wilted, so
the plants may be handled without breaking the leaves, they are speared, spiked, or
strung by the butts upon laths four feet long. Four or five plants are strung to each
SPECIAL CROPS ^HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES.
239
Jath, and hung on proper frames, on a wagon or sled, for removal to the house.
Some persons hang in temporary sheds in the field or near the house, for partial
curing, but it is not a good plan. The house should be large enough for the whole
crop. It should have ventilators at the top to pass Qut the foul air, and ventilators
at the bottom to admit fresh air in windy weather.
XXV". The Tobacco House.
Ven-tilation and Drying. — The tobacco house may be arranged for four or
five tiers of stalks. It should rarely or never be higher. The illustration shows the
general arrangement — beams for hanging the
tobacco, lath doors or shutters for ventila-
tion, etc. The ventilation is important. In
damp weather the house must be closed. In
windy weather the leaves must not be blown
about. If the dry heat of charcoal, coke,
etc., is used for drying, it should be con-
veyed in pipes running at proper intervals
through the house and not within eight feet
in curing, according to whether the demand
TOBACCO HOUSE.
of the leaves. Care must also be used
is for light or dark tobacco.
Stripping. — In December, and from that time on, when the weather is moist
enough so the tobacco will be pliable, or "in case" for handling, stripping may
commence. The tobacco should be assorted into three qualities,
first, second and third, corresponding to best, second-best and
inferior, and all leaves in a "hand" should be of uniform length.
This assorting must be by competent hands. One man may
take the best, passing the stalk to another, he selects the
seconds, and another the inferior. These tied in bundles of
twelve to sixteen leaves, and bound at the butts by a single
leaf, constitute a "hand" of tobacco, as shown in the cut.
Twelve leaves make a "hand" of the best wrappers; from
fourteen to sixteen are often put into "hands" of seconds and
thirds.
Bulking. — This is a nice job, and requires the utmost
care and watchfulness to bring the tobacco into the proper
condition. If too damp, it will get hot, if too dry it will not
warm up suflSciently to bring out the fragrance and color of
prime condition. It will pay to hire a competent man until
the owner is familiar with the process. The object is to have
the tobacco dry out slowly, and to remain in proper' condition
until ready for packing in cases, in the North, or in hogsheads
in the South. These boxes, or cases, contain four hundred pounds, while the
•HAND" OF TOBACCO.
240
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
hogsheads contain one thousand pounds each. The bulking is done between the
sides of a frame as high as the bulk is to be carried, and wide enough to allow the
leaf-tips to lap, one on the other, with the butts at the sides. A bulk three and a
half feet high, and twenty feet longj should hold four thousand pounds. Bulk each
sort by itself. In bulking, take the "hands" one at a time, laying them straight,
over-lapping the tops one-third on the other, keeping the whole even, and pressing
with the knees as you proceed, until the task is finished. Then remove the side-
pieces, and cover all with blankets, weighting them down with boards if necessary.
The bulks may remain until sold to the packer, watching it carefully to see that
it does not heat unduly. If the fermentation is too strong the tobacco will blacken ;
MOTH OF TOMATO WORM.— DESTROYS TOBACCO IN THE NORTH.
if too little the flavor will not develop. To get the right effect requires the greatest
care and judgment.
XXVI. Twelve Rules for Tobacco Growers.
1 . The land must be rich and in good condition generally ; potash and nitrogen
are essential to the cror, as well as friability and permeability of the soil.
2. The seeding in the seed-bed must be thick and even; to be afterwards
thinned, to enable the plants to grow stocky and strong for transplanting. It is well
to allow an ounce of seed for every two acres of tobacco, to allow for destruction by
the fly and other insect enemies.
3. Do not transplant until the weather is permanently warm — the nights as well
as the days. If once the plants are chilled the crop is injured.
4. After planting out watch carefully for cut worms, at daylight in the morning,
and wherever a leaf is attacked find every worm before you quit.
5. Transplant promptly from a reserve bed of extra plants whenever you find
a plant missing.
SPECIAL CROPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES. 241
6. Cultivate thoroughly, always being careful not to break or injure the leaves.
Careless workers will destroy more than the value of extra wages paid to careful men,
7. Watch for the appearance of the tobacco moth, which lays the eggs. It is
well to have a plat of Jimson weed near, or of tobacco plants in flowers, to attract the
moths. The flowers may be poisoned with a solution of cobalt, such as is used for
killing flies.
8. When the worms — larvae of the tobacco moth, hatched from the eggs laid on
the tobacco leaves — appear, go over the field twice a day, carefully, to kill them.
Also hunt for the patches of eggs on the leaves and destroy them.
9. Top the field to twelve or fifteen leaves, as soon as the buttons — flower-buds —
have generally appeared, and pinch out suckers before they grow three inches in length.
Take off all lower leaves that sweep the ground.
10. Cut the crop when ripe, preferably with a sharp saw, and never allow plants
to wilt when the sun is hot. Handle very carefully, to prevent injury in carrying to
the house and in hanging,
11. Watch the ventilation in the house. The leaves must not hang near enough
for one stalk of leaves to touch another. The wind must not blow them about and
the vapors must be promptly carried away through ventilators at the top of the house.
12. In stripping, keep each grade by itself. Bulk carefully, and watch daily to
see that it does not overheat.
XXVII. Peanuts or Goubers.
The peanuts, as known in commerce, are called ground peas, goubers, or pindars,
locally, according to the part of the country where they are raised. The botanical
name of the plant is Arachis hypogoza. Until comparatively a few years ago the
supply came principally from the East Indian Islands and along the African coast. In
these regions quantities are still raised for the oil, which is excellent for lubricating
and burning, and equal, for culinary and table purposes, to olive oil. The nuts are
also largely used for adulterating chocolate, and especially chocolate condiments.
The gouber crop in the South is yearly increasing, especially in Tennessee. Vir-
ginia, North Carolina, and the other Atlantic States, South, produce the best nuts,
a sandy, or at least fairly arenaceous soil, containing plenty of lime, being necessary
to produce full-meated nuts. Under good cultivation, the yield is sixty or seventy
bushels, and from that to eighty bushels, per acre. When raised for forage, the
vines make excellent hay ; the product is about half a ton per acre, cured. With
proper care they may be raised as far north as forty degrees, but they are essentially
a southern plant, being killed by the least frost. Except as a curiosity, they are
hardly ever raised north of Virginia.
XXVIII. The Cultivation of Peanuts.
The cultivation is simple, and yet peculiar. The blossoms, when fertilized; hang
down, grow into the ground and pierce it until the firm soil is reached, where the pods
16
242
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
form and ripen. Hence, the necessity of shallow cultivation. The soil should be
plowed in autumn, and in the spring only surface-plowed, not more than three or four
inches, to kill weeds.
When all danger of frost is over, the soil is bedded up and prepared, as for
tobacco, leaving only a slight furrow-mark between the rows. In the center^ of each
of these beds, in a straight line, plant two seeds, at distances of eighteen inches; also
have reserve plants, to fill the places of those that may be destroyed by cut-worms, etc.
The cultivation is simply to keep down the weeds, preserving the shape of the
beds until near the time of blossoming.
A narrow cultivator is then run through the
rows, followed by a horse team to earth up the
plants. The earth is afterwards leveled to present
a flat hill, in which the nuts are to form. If weeds
or grass thereafter appear they must be pulled by
hand. The illustration shows the vine, the root,
and the nuts formed under the surface.
' XXIX. ©athering the Nuts.
The crop is not harvested until the vines are
touched by frost, for the longer the Vines grow the
greater the number of sound pods, except in the ex-
treme South, where the vines ripen fully. Hands
follow the rows and loosen the nuts with pronged
hoes or flat-tin ed forks. They are followed by
others, who pull the vines, shake the earth from
them and leave them turned to the sun to dry. In
dry weather they will thus be sufficiently cured for
shocking. The shocking is done somewhat after
the manner employed for beans ; or they may be
finally cured as beans sometimes are on scaffolds
under sheds.
Shocking. — The Tennessee plan is to provide stakes seven feet long, made sharp
at both ends; then lay two fence rails on the ground as a foundation, but with
supports underneath to afford free access to the air. The stakes are stuck in the
ground at convenient intervals between the rails, the stacks built up around them, and
finished off by a cap of straw to shed the rain. The diameter of the stack is made
to conform to the spread of a single vine. After remaining about two weeks in the
stack the picking should begin, taking off none but the matured pods. These are to
be carried to the barn, and prepared for market by finishing the drying process, and
then fanning and cleaning. The most tedious part of the work is picking. An
expert discriminates at a glance between the mature and immature pods, but cannot
pick more than two and a half or three bushels per day.
PEANUTS— PLANT AND TtTBERS.
SPECIAL CROPS ^HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES. 243
XXX. After-Management and Care of Seed.
Unless the management; in the barn is carefully conducted there is great danger,
where there is much of a bulk, that the peas will become heated and moldy. The
condition in which the early deliveries are often made on the market renders this
caution necessary. In fact, there is as much slovenliness in the handling of this crop
as there is in regard to any other, perhaps more ; for the reason that so many inex-
perienced persons engage in the culture every year.- Until the pods are thoroughly
seasoned the bulk should be frequently stirred and turned over. A certain classifica-
tion, in respect to quality, obtains in peanuts as in every other article of agricultural
produce. The descriptive terms in general use are inferior, ordinary, prime and
fancy: but these are not so definite as to admit of no intermediate grades.
Seed Peanuts. — A matter of primary importance is to provide seeds of good
quality for planting ; and in order to be assured of their excellence the planter should
either raise them himself or buy them of a person on whose fidelity he can rely. If,
after the vines are dug and they are lying in the field, they should be exposed to
frosty weather, the germinating principle would be destroyed or impaired. As a
merchantable article, however, their value is not affected. Neither should the nuts
become the least heated or moldy ; nor should they be picked off the vines while wet,
or before they are thoroughly cured. It is obvious, therefore, that the most careful
attention is requisite in this matter. Previous to planting, the pods should be carefully
shelled, and every faulty bean thrown out; not even the membrane inclosing the seed
should be ruptured. It takes about two bushels of peanuts in the pod to plant an
acre.
XXXI. Sweet Potatoes.
The sweet potato is another special crop that year by year becomes more impor-
tant, especially since cheap railway facilities admit transportation for long distances,
and improved methods enable the farmer to preserve them in good condition through
the winter, and until late in the spring. There is now only about two months in the
year when they may not be readily bought in the northern markets.
Sandy soil, or a rather firm, sandy loam is the best for this crop. In soft land,
especially if plowed deep, the tubers grow. long and stringy. The potatoes are never
planted directly in the hill, but are grown from "slips" — sprouts three to five
inches long — obtained by bedding the potatoes in a liot-bed, covered, with boards, to
shed rain, and protect them from being chilled at night. As the sweet potato is
killed by the slightest frost, the plants should never be set out in the field until the
days and nights are warm. Planted from the first to the middle of June, good crops
are raised up to, and even north of, forty-two degrees in favorable situations.
A central Ohio farmer gives, in a nut-shell, all that is necessary for field cultiva-
tion. For the garden it is cheaper to buy the plants than to raise them, two hundred
plants being enough for a family of moderate size. Our authority, a thorough prac-
tical farmer, says:
244 THE HOME AND FARM MANTJAL.
XXXTI. Field Culture of Sweet Potatoes.
"My plan is to place logs on a sloping piece of ground, say ten or twelve feet
apart. I then drive small stakes, or pegs, in rows three feet apart, and eight inches
high. The object is to have not more than seven or eight inches depth of manure,
which should be fresh horse-dung, a mixture of hay, straw, corn-fodder, etc.,
trampled down level with the tops of the pegs. I then put a coat of loam, three
inches deep, upon the top of the manure, which answers for the dressing the subse-
quent year. I then place my tubers on, cover them from two to three inches deep,
and then lay on boards, so as to keep theni efPectually covered from rain or cold
until the plants are up.
Drawing the Plants. — During the day, I let them have the sun, until I am
sure they cannot be injured by frost. I sometimes water them, but not before the
heat has somewhat subsided in the bed, which I ascertain by putting my forefinger
through the covering. A very little warmth from beneath is sufficient; there is more
to be apprehended from too much heat than too little. Some place a covering of
saw-dust on top of the bed ; but this is entirely unnecessary. In this latitude, the beds
should be made as early as the tenth or twentieth of April . The plants will be ready
for drawing, from the eighth to the twentieth of May.
Preparing the Ground. — I select ground, for growing the tubers, that will
produce good corn. To manure just before planting will cause the plants to run to
vines. Good loam, with or without sand, such as we call "second year's land,"
lying to the sun, yields best. It need not necessarily be sandy, to produce the
greatest yield; on the contrary, good loamy land produces tubers of the best flavor.
I plow the ground well, when dry, and harrow thoroughly. It would even be better
to cross-plow it. Then I throw two " moles " together, about four feet apart", and
see that the ground is well pulverized, in order that the list may be clear from clods,
sods and trash, and that the land is in the best order to receive the plants. The
time for transplanting is when the ground is what we call " dry."
Planting. — The mode of planting is to make a hole with the hand, or other-
wise, of the proper depth to receive the young plant ; and, when it is placed in the
hole, I pour in half a gill of water, so that the earth may settle around the fibrous
roots ; then, I draw the dry earth around the plant, and compress it a little with a
hoe. In less than twenty-four hours the plant will be as vigorous as though it had
never been removed. On good land, the distance of the plants apart should be from
eighteen to twenty inches ; for thin land, fifteen inches will be sufficient. The yield,
in this section, is from 100 to 150 bushels to the acre. I should state that the
plants require to be hoed about as much as corn. The vines should be thrown on
the ridges, out of the way, while dressing. In digging, I use a large, long, flat,
three-tined fork, to throw the tubers out of the ground. When dug, I spread them
to dry and wilt somewhat, preparatory to putting them up for winter, which requires
much care.
SPECIAL CKOPS HOPS, TOBACCO, PEANUTS AND SWEET POTATOES. 245
XXXIII. Keeping Sweet Potatoes in Winter.
Sweet potatoes are easily kept through the winter in a room where the tempera-
ture is about fifty degrees. A temperature materially lower than this will make them
" frost-bitten," and if the room is much warmer than fifty degrees, it will sprout
them. - Sweet potato houses are built secure from frost, heated to the proper tem-
perature, and the potatoes are kept in bins one over another, each containing about a
barrel.
Any room of the temperature stated will keep them, if the potatoes have beer
handled without bruising. They may be packed either in barrels or boxes, and kiln-
dried or thoroughly sun-dried sand poured over them to fill the interstices, or boxes
of uniform sjize, separated one fi'om the other by an inch space may be piled one
above the other. In this way the potatoes will keep sound until spring.
XXXIV. Garden Cultivation of Sweet Potatoes.
Where a few plants are raised for family use in the autumn and early winter, the
earth may be thrown up either into pretty high ridges or hills, and the plants set as
directed, at any time after the season becomes permanently warm. Watch for cut
worms, keep the soil clean, prevent the vines rocfting from the joints, by occasionallj
lifting with the handle of a rake, and in the autumn you will have fresh potatoes thai
will come in well for family use. Every farmer should plant from 200 to 500 vines.
CHAPTER IX.
CROPS FOR SUGAR-MAKING.
SUGAR AND ITS MANUTACTUEE. U. CANE AND OTHER SUGARS COMPARED. ^III. HISTORY OF
BEET SUGAR IN THE UNITED STATES. IV. CUE TWO GREAT SUGAR PLANTS. ^V. THE VARIOUS
SACCHARINE PRODUCTS. VI. THE THREE SUGARS COMPARED. VII. CULTIVATION OF SUGAR-
CANE. vm. CULTIVATION OP SORGHUM. IX. WHEN TO CUT SORGHUM CANE. X. CUTTING
AND HANDLING THE CANE. ^XI. SPECIFIC GRAVITY AS A BASIS OF VALUE. XII. SPECIFIC
GRAVITY AND COMPOSITION OF JUICES. XIII. TABLE OF JUICES. XIV. VALUE OF SORGHUM
DURING WORKING PERIOD. XV. FOUR IMPORTANT POINTS. XVI. VALUABLE CANES SOUTH.
XVII. THE REAL TEST OF VALUE. XVUI. TABLE OF COMPARATIVE VALUES DURING WORKING
PERIOD. XIX. THE MANUFACTURE OF SORGHUM. XX. MAKING SUGAR ON THE FARM. XXI.
GENERAL CONCLUSIONS. XXIL MAPLE SUGAR. ^XXHI. TAPPING THE TREES. XXIV. BOILING
AND SUGARING. XXV. SUGARING OFF. XXVI. TO TELL WHEN SUGAR IS DONE.
I. Sugar and its Manufacture.
^PlNCE sugar has come to be thought one of the necessities of life, various plants
l^m containing saccharine sap have been utilized for the manufacture of syrup, or
sugar, or both. Sugar-cane and the sugar beet have been the most important
of these ; the maple-tree standing next, until within the last few years, during
which time, improved processes of separating tree sugar from the glucose of sorghum
have come into use.
From the author's earlier experiments, forty years ago, in concentrating the
juices of the corn-stalk, and of water-melons, we were convinced that these plants
would never afford merchantable sweets. Not so after experimenting with sorghum,
in 1856. The saccharine material was there; the question remained, how to separate
it cheaply. This has now been so answered by the chemist as to make it seem prob-
able that within a very few years the West will be able to produce sugar from
sorghum as satisfactorily as Europe has done from the sugar beet. How important
this is will be understood when we mention, that, notwithstanding the gradual increase
of the sugar production in the very narrow Gulf belt of the United States, which
itself is only partially adapted to the production of cane sugar, this country grows
only one-seventh of the sugar it uses.
II. Cane and Other Sugars Compared.
In 1875, we had occasion to investigate tuo sugar production of the world. The
Island of Cuba alone produced 700,000 tons, yearly, and our Southern States only
75,000 tons. The annual production of cane sugar for the world was 2,186,000 tons,
yearly. Of beet sugar Europe produced 1,317,626 tons, of which the little country of
[246]
CROPS FOR SUGAR-MAKING. 247
Belgium gave 79,796. This European sugar thus amounted to more than half the
cane-sugar production of the globe, or more than one-third of the world's total sugar
crop.
The manufacture of true sugar from sorghum has not yet reached large figures,
but since, in 1882, a single factory produced 319,000 pounds, while the aggregate of
the whole country was only 500,000 pounds, it is simply a question of time when this
industry must become one of the most important in the West.
The manufacture of beet sugar has disappeared from the United States, only one
factory, in California, being, we believe, now in operation. The Chatsworth, Illinois,
enterprise failed long ago, and, lately, the one in Maine stopped. The causes of
failure lie, principally, in the cost of manual labor, the strong nitrogenous quality of
the land, and the difficulty in procuring competent persons for the direction of the
intricate processes of manufacture. The author knows of what he writes, for he had
charge of the initial enterprise in the United States, that at Chatsworth, Illinois,
during the last three years of its existence.
III. History of Beet Sugar in the United States.
There have been, in all, seven large beet-sugar factories started in the United
States during the last twenty years. Two in lUinois, two in Wisconsin, one in
Maine and two in California. True success has been reached by none, and all but
one have suspended. The manufacture of beet sugar requires an abundance of living
water, intricate machinery, large capital, cheap labor in the production and working
of the crop, and men of exact and scientific knowledge in the management of the
factory. The same enterprise and money employed in the production of sorghum,
will produce double the results. The time may come when the production of beet
sugar may be profitable in the United States, yet with the cheaper labor of Europe,
the industry does not flourish there as in former years.
IV. Our Two Great Sugar Plants.
The sugar-cane {Saccharum officinarum) and the sorghum cane {Sorghum
vulgare) in some of its varieties, are, therefore, destined to produce the future
sugars of the United States. The cultivation of the first-named plant is limited to
the Gulf coast — Florida, Mississippi, Louisiana and Texas.
Sorglium. — Sorghum culture in the United States is only limited by the finding
of soil suited to the plant. The rich sandy soils of Minnesota have so far produced
some of the best samples of sugar. Farther south, it is at home on any soil that
will make good crops of Indian corn, though arable lands and well-drained sandy
loams will always be found to give the best grades of sugar. This is true of all
plants producing saccharine juices. Strong nitrogenous soils always act against the
crystallizability of sugars, and in the case of beets,- are a bar to its production.
Hence, as sugar producers, we shall have to deal only with the two plants mentioned,
and with the maple-tree.
248 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
V. The Various Saccharine Products.
Cane Sugar. — Cane sugar occurs in the ordinary sugar-cane, in the sap of the
maple and the juice of the beet, without the admixture of any other kind of sugar.
It crystallizes readily from a pure solution, in large oblique prisms. It rotates the
plane of polarization to the right. It does not precipitate suboxide of copper from
an alkaline solution of that metal (Fehling's test) at the boiling temperature. By
being heated with acids, or by being boiled for a long time with water, it is converted
into a mixture of grajDC and fruit sugar.
Grape Sugar. — Grape sugar, or glucose, constitutes the white powder seen
upon the outside of old raisins ; it also forms the sediment arising in old honey. It
is found in connection with cane and fruit sugars in many fruits, and may be made
artificially by the action of acids upon cane sugar, starch or wood. Made thus it is
used in Europe for adding to wine musts which are weak in sugar. It crystallizes
with diflSculty, forming cauliflower-like masses which, under the microscope, appear
like fine— needles or blades, and in some conditions as six-sided tablets. It also
polarizes to the right, but to a less degree than cane sugar. It is less sweet than
cane sugar, one pound of the latter producing the same degree of sensation of
sweetness as from two to two and a half pounds of grape sugar. At the boiling
temperature it precipitates the copper of Fehling's test. While cane sugar has to
pass into grape and fruit sugars before fermentation takes place, grape sugar ferments
without further change.
Pruit Sugar. — Fruit sugar occurs, as its name partly implies, in acidulous
fruits with grape and cane sugars. It occurs also in molasses, as before stated. It
is not capable of ciystallization, but exists as a syrup, or, when dried, as a transparent
candy. It is as sweet as cane sugar. It rotates the plane of polarization to the left.
At the boiling temperature it removes the copper from Fehling's test solution, like
grape sugar. It ferments without passing' into any other kind of sugar. These are
the most prominent differences between the three sugars.
As "polarization to the right or left" cannot be suflSciently explained without
many words, the unscientific reader is requested to accept that, " cane, grape and
fruit sugars behave differently towards polarized light."
VI. The Three Sugars Compared.
A GREAT want of clearness rests in the public mind as to grape and fruit sugars,
arising from the carelessness with which scientific men use the terms, employing the
words "gi-ape sugar" or "uncrystallizable sugar" either to pure grape sugar, to pure
fruit suo-ar, or to a mixture of the two. The mixture of grape and fruit sugars
arising from the action of acids, ferment, or water upon cane sugar is called
"inverted" sut^ar, "o^rape" sugar and "uncrystallizable" sugar; being thus named
differently by different persons. "Inverted sugar" is the proper name, which is
derived from the change of action upon polarized light from right to left.
CROPS FOR SUGAR-MAKING. 249
The practical results of our present chemical knowledge of the sugars may be
brieily stated, as follows: Grape sugar is practically uncrystallizable in the manufac-
ture of cane sugar, as it remains in the molasses ; it is also much less sweet than cane
sugar. Fruit sugar is as sweet as cane sugar, but does not crystallize. Cane sugar
may be transformed into inverted sugar (which is a mixture of grape and fruit sugars)
by means of acids, long boiling with water, and fermentation, etc. ; but neither of
these last sugars can be changed again into cane sugar by any process known in
chemistry. For practical purposes the difference of composition of the three sugars,
as shown by their organic analyses, need not be discussed here. It is, however,
important to note that they form compounds with salts, and that these combinations
with the salts naturally in the vegetable juices associated with the sugars do not
crystallize. In the compound of cane sugar with lime the cane sugar is not destroyed
or "inverted" by boiling, but grape or fruit sugar in combination with lime are
rapidly destroyed by boiling.
VII. Cultivation of Sugar-Cane.
It is not likely that the cultivation of the true sugar-cane can ever become a
great industry in the United States. The small yield, even in the best sections of
Louisiana, which gives but from 1,200 to 1,800 pounds of sugar to the acre, as against
3,000 to 5<000 pounds in the Mauritius, and occasionally even up to 7,000 pounds
per acre in Cuba, is against it. That would suffice, to say nothing of the malaria of
the sugar plantations; the larger cost of cultivation; higher price of labor, compared
with tropical climates, where peon or slave labor is used.
Of late years, attempts have been made to introduce the plan of delivering the
cane direct to central factories for working. What this may accomplish in time
remains to be seen. The system has worked well in the French West Indies, and
large profits have been made.
VIII. Cultivation of Sorghum.
The cultivation of sorghum from the first preparation of the soil until the cane
Ls ripe, is identical with that of Indian corn, with these exceptions: The soil should
be reduced to a finer tilth than is generally made for corn ; the cane being delicate in
growth, more care must be used in cultivation when it first comes up ; and the crop
will be undoubtedly better for one thorough hoeing of the plants.
If planted in check-rows, three and a half feet by three would be about right,
four or five plants to remain in the hill. If drilled, which is much the best plan, the
plants may stand eight or ten inches apart. When the seed is to be planted by hand,
the seed should always be soaked until the germ is ready to appear. A pocket-full
of kiln-dried corn-meal, in which the hand may be dipped occasionally, will help to
prevent the seed from clinging.
If the land is inclined to be wet after rains, the soil should be listed up for plant-
ing on ; if well drained use level planting. The seed should not be covered more
250 THE H05IE AND FARM MANUAL.
than an inch, and in the case of sprouted seed, half an inch is better. Never plant on
trashy land. It should be as clean as a garden. When this is the case, you may
drill the seed, and plenty of it, always pressing the soil pretty firmly to the seed.
When the land is thoroughly dried, you may put a sharp-toothed harrow on the land,
crossing the drills at right angles to thin the plants. Lumpy soil should never be
planted with sorghum. Lumps, as a rule, result from plowing the land when too wet.
The cultivator must decide for himself distance to plant, whether in hills or drills.
For sorghum, good barn-yard manure, some phosphate (never nitrogenous manured
and gypsum should be used.
IX. When to Cut Sorghum Cane.
It is fully established now that the cane must not be cut until the seed is about
ripe, or fully developed and hard. Acco'ding to a late report to the Commission
of Agriculture, taken from the results of 2,739 analyses of sorghum, the percentage
of juice extracted from the stripped stalks gradually increases up to a certain point of
ripeness, and then gradually decreases to the close of the season.
The Process of Ripening. — The specific gravity of the juice, the percentage of
sucrose (true sugar), the percentage of solids not sugar, and the exponent regularly
increase, with one or two exceptions, until the close of the season ; the percentage
of glucose (syrup product) in the juice as steadily decreases from the first.
Hence, the cane should be allowed, as heretofore stated, to ripen. The want of
knowledge on this point has done more to pi"event the cultivation of sorghum than all
other things combined. Farther on will be given, with other matter, a table fully
explaining this important point.
X. Cutting and Handling the Cane.
The cane should be cut near the root with a suitable knife, laid in piles, sepa-
rated into convenient handfuls, the cuts leveled and presented on a table or suitable
form, for cutting off the heads and that portion of the stalk not useful for crushing.
The leaves can then be stripped before grinding, or not, as preferred. We favor
stripping, but it is a question of the cost of labor. The cane should be kept from
wet, and worked as soon as possible after cutting. Until worked it must not be piled
so close as to heat.
XI. Specific Gravity as a Basis of Value.
The sugar-maker must take nothing for granted, unless the results, as shown by
careful and accurate experiment, warrant it. The individual cannot make these for
himself. The Department of Agriculture has done much useful work in this
direction.
The table on page 253 is of practical value to those engaged in sugar-making from
sorghum. By reference to it the sugar-boiler can determine the composition of any
juice of which he knows the specific gravity. These figures are averages drawn from
all the analyses recorded, and although the different canes differ somewhat in the
CROPS FOR SUGAR-MAKING. 251
composition of the juice for the same specific gravity, still these differences are not
so great as to be of much. practical importance.
In examining these tables it should be remembered that the results are
valuable in proportion to the number of analyses from which each figure has been
derived. If only those figures are examined which are based on ten or more analyses,
it will be seen that the recorded results are very seldom exceptional.
Among other points shown by this table, the following are important:
1. The amount of juice obtained seldom falls below sixty per cent, of the
weight of the stripped stalks ; this percentage does not vary greatly throughout the
season.
2. The amount of crystallizable sugar (sucrose) in the juice is at first little
over one per cent, but it regularly increases with the increase of specific gravity.
J^o one relationship is more evident than this close correspondence between the
increase of specific gravity and percentage of sucrose in the juice; the average
increase of sucrose for an increase of .001 in specific gravity (between 1.030 and
1.086) is 0.233 per cent. The following table shows the average increase of cane
sugar corresponding with an increase Of .001 in specific gravity of the juice :
Between 1.030 — 1.039=:. 164 per cent sucrose.
Between 1.040 — 1.049^.167 per cent sucrose.
Between 1.050 — 1.059=. 229 per cent sucrose.
Between 1.060 — 1.069=. 250 per cent sucrose.
Between 1.070 — 1.079=. 142 per cent sucrose.
Between 1.080 — 1.086^.164 per cent sucrose.
3. It is a noticeable fact that the "solids not sugar" increase regularly and
with almost the same rapidity that the glucose diminishes. One point, however,
seems to be strongly suggested, namely, that the decrease in glucose bears a much
closer relationship to the increase of organic solids not sugar than to the increase of
crystallizable sugar. In other words, it seems at least possible that the commonly
accepted idea that cane sugar is formed in plants only through the intervention of
glucose may be a mistaken idea. This point is. a very interesting one and worthy of
careful study in the future.
4. The percentage of total solids regularly increases, with a few exceptions,
with the increase of specific gravity ; the average increase for each gain of .001 in
specific gravity is 0.17 per cent of solids.
5. Experience has shown that the percentage of crystallizable sugar in the
total solids of the juice should exceed 70 in order that good results may be had.
XII. Specific Gravity and Composition of Juices.
An inspection of the table indicates that these juices attained that percentage
(see column headed " Exponent " ) when the specific gravity 1.066 was reached,
and this exponent was maintained, arid even exceeded, until the specific gravity 1.086
was passed. After this the exponents are somewhat variable, because specific
252 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
gravities above 1.086 were not attained until quite late in the season, when the plants
had nearly or quite ceased growing; also, the number of experiments for these higher
specific gravities was smaller than for the lower figures. It is safe to say that the
profitable working period for sorghum canes begins when the juice attains the specific
gravity 1.066, and continues "until the specific gravity 1.086 is reached, and fre-
quently even longer. During this period the canes here examined furnished on an
average 61.9 per cent of juice from the stripped stalks. A good mill should furnish
not less than sixty per cent on the large scale. Several manufacturers are willing to
contract for mills to furnish sixty-five per cent.
On the supposition that a good mill, yieldmg at least 60 per cent of juice from
the stripped stalks, is used, the amount of sugar which should be obtained from 100
pounds of stalks is found by referring to the figures in the last column corresponding
with the specific gravity of the juice obtained. For example, each one hundred pounds
of stripped stalks, the juice of which has the specific gravity of 1.073, should actually
furnish 5.51 pounds of cane sugar. Even better results than these have actually been
obtained in several instances. In the same manner the yield of sugar can be calcu-
lated from the weight of the juice by reference to the figures under the heading of
"Available percentage of sucrose in juice."
The study of the table will be interesting to all readers, and of great value to
those who raise the canes, and especially so to the sugar maker. There are so many
integers of value in the conversion of sacharine juices into sugar,, and so many
contingencies to be met in all sacharine juices containing glucose combined or in
connection with true sugar, heretofore very imperfectly understood, and not yet
perfectly known, even by the best chemists, that great diflSculty has been experienced
in particular cases in working even the true sugar-cane of the South.
We are year by year coming to understand that money cannot be made m the
working of sorghum in the hitherto crude methods of the farm. The abandonment
of those methods and the better system now adopted have given the most gratifying
results. Hence the value of the tabular information here given — dry reading except
to those especially interested, but presenting at a glance just the information that is
useful to those studying sugar making with a view to becoming experts.
Take the item of density of juice, and its relation to the sugar product. Once
the quality of the cane is known from actual working, and the average density of the
juice, a fair estimate of the outcome can be made from other canes that have had
similar conditions as to soil, culture, age, etc.
So of all the tables given in this volume ; they are intended to show in the most
condensed forms the actual practical deductions on the absolute practical facts,
obtained from many experiments in a constant direction.
CROPS FOE SUGAR-MAKING.
253
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254 THE HOME AND FAEM MAIfCTAL.
XIV. Value of Sorghum During Workiag Period.
The chemist of the Department of Agriculture in Washington has made an
exhaustive comparison between all the principal varieties of sorghum, and many
varieties of corn, including rice or Egyptian corn, doura, sweet corn, dent and horse-"
tooth corn. From the table given on page 256 it will be possible to judge accurately
as to the comparative values of the different canes for sugar. These values are
applicable more especially to the latitude of Washingtoif, and it will be seen later that
certain canes which do not stand high in the list, when grown in this section, are
very likely to prove valuable where the growing season is longer.
Again, those which mature quickest and also have a long working period are the
ones especially recommended for culture in more northern latitudes.
In this table the canes are arranged in the order of their comparative value, as
shown from the large number of analyses recorded. It must not be inferred, how-
ever, that it is possible to state positively that this order may not be somewhat
modified by future experience ; it certainly would be somewhat changed were any ,
one characteristic of the juice used as the basis of comparison to the exclusion of all
others. It has been attempted to give due weight to all the factors which tend to
show the good or bad qualities of the canes.
XV. Pour Important Points.
Among the points which have the most direct bearing on the determination as to
the value of any cane for any locality are the following:
1. Other things being equal, that cane is best adapted to any locality which most
quickly reaches the working stage, and longest continues workable. It will be noticed
that, judged by this rule, the first eight varieties in the table on page 256 are superior
to those that follow. It appears, also, that these varieties matured in from seventy-
seven to eighty-nine days, and continued workable from eighty-seven to one hundred
and seven days, or, on an average, over three months. It is very important to have
suflScient time in which to work up the crop.
2. The average purity of the juice is another very important consideration.
This is shown by the column headed " average exponent;" by this term is meant the
percentage of pure crystallizable sugar in the total solids of the juice. As has
already been stated in the discussion of the table of specific gravities, the exponent
should not fall below seventy for the best results.
3. The average available sugar in the juice has very much to do with its value.
The figures in this column were calculated by multiplying the figures in the column
showing " average per cent sucrose in juice " by the corresponding figures for "aver-
age exponent."
4. The pounds of juice per acre have much to do with the amount of sugar that
can be obtained.
CROPS FOE SUGAK-MAKING. 255
XVI. Valuable Canes South.
•As will be seen, the various canes do not differ very materially in the percentage
of juice they can furnish; hence, the pounds of juice per acre depend more directly
upon the number and weight of canes which can be raised. By reference to the
tables for each variety, it will be seen that several of the varieties standing low in this
list (Honduras, Honey Top, etc. ) furnish canes much heavier than those standing near
the first of the list; hence, if an equal number of such heavy canes could be grown on
an acre, the amount of juice must be correspondingly greater.
If, then, the quality of the juice from heavy canes is as good as that from the
light, and the season for working is greater, the heavy canes would be preferable,
because they would furnish the larger amount of sugar per acre. Unfortunately, this
is not the case in this latitude. The first two columns in the table show that the
heavier canes do not attain their full growth and maturity, in time to be worked up
into sugar.
It is fully believed that these heavy canes are well adapted to the more southern
parts of the United States, and that in those regions they will reach full maturity in
time to leave an ample working period. In fact, several examinations of canes sent
from South Carolina a j^ear ago confirm these statements.
If it be supposed, for sake of comparison, that an equal number of canes of each
variety can be grown on an acre of land, the results given in the last three columns
will show what amounts of stripped stalks, juice and available sugar can be obtained
on an acre from each variety of corn and sorghum. The number of stalks per acre
has been placed at 24,000, which is believed to be a fair estimate.
In comparing these figures with those in the three columns just preceding them,
which represent actual results of analyses, it will be seen that the figures do not differ
greatly.
XVII. The Real Test of Value.
Aftee all, the real test of value for any cane is the amount of crystalized sugar
that can be actually separated from the juice obtained from the stalks grown on an
acre. This amount will depend very greatly on the quantity and quality of the canes,
and upon the promptness and care with which they are worked up after cutting. The
figures here given in explanation of the various points which have been discussed have
been derived from very carefully conducted work, and they are offered as fair state-
ments of what can and should be attained by careful workers.
Among the essential points worthy of repetition are the following :
1. Select a cane that matures quickly, and has as long a working period as
possible.
Do not work the cane too early ; the seed should be well matured and quite hard,
and the juice should have a specific gravity of 1.066 or higher.
3. After cutting the canes, work them up without great delay. It is best to
draw directly from the field to the mill as may be needed.
256
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
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Acreajje in Farms
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ArreH*^** IU>1 in FarnJS
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C03IF0KT AM.) I'KOFIT 1\ THE II(.)MESTEAD.
273
If sixtccn-feet boards are used, cut in the middle for the vertical siding ; the
building will be seven feet in the clear. The sills may be mortised for the Ijeams ;
then nail two boards to the sills, at each corner, peri)endicularly, and stayed at the
bottom with inch blocks. The beams for the second tloor may rest on stancheons
cut seven feet long; the rafters sawed and nailed ; the sides boarded up; the floors
laid; if more tiian the lower floor be used, the elevation nuiy be twelve feet, for
attic bed-room, and the roof nuide of tarred paper, which is manufactured ex}jressly
for this purjjose. A veranda may be added at any time, and again, a lean-to, as
shown in the ground plan. This shows the original building k-v. B is a bed-room,
p, pantry, and iv-s, wood-shed, com[n-ising the lean-to. Any person, wdth a saw, a
square, a hammer and a short ladder, can do this work, with one assistant. It would
be better to shingle the roof, and this should be done at the first opportunit}'.
A PIOXEER'S COTTAGE.
— o -o
GROUND PLAN WITH LEAN-TO.
III. True Success in Farming.
Success in farming nf)wadays depends more up)on correct methods than upon
grinding hard work. Good farmers do not go out in the morning and begin the daj^'s
work in a haphazard way. If plowing is to be done, no time is to be lost in scouring
the plows, while teams and hands are waiting. The plows have been thoroughly
cleaned, rubbed dry and the metal parts slightly, l)ut evenl}', oiled. If the plow has
been out of use for some time, the metal has been thinly painted with lamp-black and
kerosene oil, and put away where this coating would not be rubbed off. Thus, the first
furrow turned is as good as the last.
Every tool should thus be kept in condition for service and duplicates of bolts
ready to meet any small loss. The farmer should also be able himself to do riveting
and minor repairs, and bad weather utilized for grinding or filing the cutting surfaces.
Work should be systematized; done at the hours for Avork, and there should be other
hours for rest and amusement. There should be a place for everything, and every-
thing in its place. A time for labor, and a time for play.
18
274
THE HOME AXD FARM MANUAL.
IV. Look to the Details.
It is attention to details that makes the whole system of labor perfect. "Water
furrows should be drawn at the proper time in the fields ; lands laid out correctly for
plowing; the furrows straight and equal in depth and width, according to the soil and
the requirements of the crop. On a well conducted farm there is no slighting of'
work at the corners, or in the final plowing of headlands, and the hands are required
to use constant care that every hill of a row is properly cultivated.
If a field of grass or grain is to he cut, the first swath will be sti'aight and the
second will be perfect.
' SHALL I MOVE THE BARX OR THE MANURE PILE - '
There will be no shirking or weaving by the team: they will have strength for
their w(irk. from proper care and feeding, and will have been taught by kind, bul
decisive training, just what is expected of them. The}' will be driven straight out
at the end to the i>rf>per place to sto]i. The}' will be brought about so tiie machine
M'ill enter coi-rectly and cut its full width at the first movement of the knives.
The track clearer \\\\\ be adjusted exactl\' riirlit on the grass, will not interfere
COMFORT AND PROEIT IN THE HOMESTEAD.
275
with the working of the machine at the next round, and yet will be evenly spread to
the sun. The sheaves of grain will be bound in equal bundles and of proper size,
according to the ripeness and stoutness of the grain. The grass will be raked into
straight windrows ; the hay-cocks even and of uniform size ; the shocks of grain in
straight lines through the field, firm, and carefully capped. There is profit here;
there has been no preventable loss, and all things have been done in the cheapest
manner — cheapest, because most economically consistent with good work. So with
every labor of the farm.
V. Thrift and Unthrift lUusti^ated.
Shall we give the other side of this picture? It may be seen in every neighbor-
hood. There are men whose work is never done in season, nor well done at any
time. Their implements are always " lying about loose," but too often the owner
may be found " tight " enough at the village grocery. They are of that class who
insist that " farming don't pay." Their farms are mortgaged, gradually run down,
and are absorbed by their more enterprising neighbors. They " don't believe in
book larnin," yet they have faith enough in their calling to think they may succeed
in a new country.
THE SUCCESSFUL FARMER'S MODEL BARN.
The out-door indications are generally an index to the inner life. The surround-
ings of the man who " never has time" will not be unlike the opposite picture. His
implements will lie around ; his animals will rest where they can. He saves manure
carefully — just where it is thrown out from the barn-stable. At last, the accumulations,
which have been trodden under foot, increase, until a mountain rises, accessible only
by strong-winged fowls. Something must be done. The indolent farmer says : "Yes,
Johnny, I calc'late we must stratin out that manure. "We can't git the barn-door
open any more."
Sensible son. — " Why don't ye move the barn, dad? It'll be a heap easier."
Will the barn be moved? No. Will the manure pile be carted to the fields? No,
276 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
there is no time. It will be " stratined out," and the mortgage, constantly accumulat-
ing, will, at length, straighten out the indolent farmer.
The Careful Farmer's Barn. — ^Let us look at another picture. There is
neither waste nor extravagance here. Careful management and business tact have
kept Farmer Skillful steadily on the road to success. First, a small barn was built.
At the end of a few years it was shored up, a stone foundation put under it, and it
was filled with stock. All manure made was hauled to the fields, and the yard kept
perfectly clean. The central figure in the illustration shows the first barn. Additions
were gradually made, until about the time Farmer Indolent, in the same neighborhood,
was " calc' lating " to " strati n out that manure," Farmer Skillful's barn and yard
presented the appearance shown in the companion illustration.
There is nothing extravagant about this; nothing for show, but everything is
solid and substantial. It fronts east, the main building is 35x45, the south wing, the
first addition made, is 24x45, the north wing 30x50, and both lap on the main building
ten feet. The basement walls are eight feet high by two feet thick. There is a cen-
tral shed under each wing for manure, which is regularly carted out. This gives
complete shelter for the store stock.
VI. How to Select a Claim of Land,
When settling in a new country there are many things that require careful
thought. The intending settler should know something about soils, texture and com-
position; drainage, water supply, above and below ground; summer and winter
climate, and the general adaptability of the land to present and future crops to be
raised. Much of this may be learned from books, but, so much is written that the
beginner is befogged. A few salient points, however, may well be borne in mind :
Rough Laud. — Do not choose rocky, unevenly broken land, rough steep hills,
nor strongly rolling land, unless the principal feature is to stock, and not then unless
the price is sufficiently low to offset the expense of bringing it into subjection.
Unhealthful Soils. — Avoid land abounding in wet holes and marshes. These
will be unhealthful. They may, indeed be drained, but this the new settler can
rarely do.
Valuable Soils. — Seek land gently rolling, if possible, or, if level, see that the
soil is naturally dry; that is, that the impervious clay or rock lies far enough below
the surface to ensure drainage.
Vegetation as an Index to the Soil. — Observe the character of the vegeta-
tion on the surface. The prairie dock, or compass plant, shows a rich, moist soil,
adapted to Indian corn, or other soft-land crops. Hazel brush, the woody-rooted
red root, amaranth, indigo weed, and short grasses indicate a good wheat soil — firm,
fertile and dry. Horse weed, wild artichoke, and others of the sunflower tribe, show
a rich, deep, warm soil, such as is usually found on arable river bottoms. All the
sedges indicate cold, wet land. Thistles are found on rich, dry bottoms. Wild red-
top, and the taller and more slender of the wild grasses, indicate good meadow land.
COMFORT AND PROFIT IN THE HOMESTEAD. 277
Hence, by carefully observing the natural vegetation of a country — for each soil
grows its characteristic plants — a pretty good idea may be formed of the value of the
land. For further information on this subject see chapters on grasses and on
drainage.
How to Test the Soil. — Provide yourself with a small ground auger. With
this you may judge of the nature and value both of the surface and sub-soil. If it is
black and sandy, or loamy and friable, a chocolate, or even light brown, it is usually
fii'st rate.
The color of the soil, is, however, not always an indication of its value. Ablack
soil indicates a humus soil if very light in gravity, or if heavy in weight it may con-
tain charcoal and humus combined. Many light-colored soils are excellent and lasting,
especially for the cereals and grass. If the subsoil is a stiff, tenaceous, pasty clayj
reflect before selecting it, unless it lies at a considerable depth below the surface. If
hard-pan, reject it.
Selecting the Situation. — Do not select the highest points for permanent resi-
dence. They are less subject to malaria, but usually less fertile than the lower levels.
He who can get the upland for the home and the low-lying land for crops, is fortunate.
If there is an open grove, and living water, and if the vegetation is strong and varied
in character, go no farther. The best possible home has been found, for arable lands
contain the greatest variety of plants, while particular plants are confined to soils that
have some peculiar texture or qualification. We repeat — the chapter on drainage, and
that on grasses, wiU largely assist the intelligent reader in determining many points of
value here.
VII. Commencing the Farm.
The first thing after securing the claim, is to make some kind of shelter. No
matter how rough, let it be comfortable, and above all do not shut out the light. Let
the situation be as elevated as possible, though it be only temporary. The turning and
working of the sod, and the decay of rank vegetation always produce more or less
miasma.
Enclosures and a stable, of some kind, for stock, are next in importance. The
stables must be proof against prairie storms, and the cold of winter.
As soon as the grass is up three or four inches, set the breaking team to work,
and keep on breaking — two inches or less is the right depth — ^until the first of July, or
until the sod becomes too dry. It does no harm to break prairie when wet. It works
easier, and this shallow breaking effectually kills all vegetation.
VIII. What Crops to Raise.
A SMALL piece of tender sod may be broken five inches deep for a garden
spot, and perhaps to sow wheat, oats, rye, barley and flax sufficient for the next
year's seed. A greater area of deep breaking than this is a waste of labor. A piece
of tender sod may also be broken, three inches deep, for potatoes, which should be
378
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
planted in every third furrow, and about eighteen inches in the row. By turning
over the sod in the autumn, a nice crop is often thus obtained, and one that requires
no labor in cultivation.
Plant as much corn as possible on the shallow breaking, by chopping seams in
and through the sod, three feet apart, on every third furrow. Drop three grains in
a place, step on it firmly to press the seam to the corn. It will give you feed and
fodder, and sometimes pretty sound corn.
As soon as the sod is thoroughly dead, you may begin to "back-set" the sod
not planted to corn. This means turning the sod back, and as much deeper as the
team can comfortably work, always remembering to keep the plowshare and coulter
as sharp as possible, both in breaking and back-setting — the share by filing and the
coulter by grinding on a good sharp-gritted stone. The time so spent is well spent.
The ground thus re-plowed, may be sown to winter wheat and rye, and the corn
land, re-plowed as soon as the corn is gathered, may be reserved for spring wheat,
barley, flax and oats. Raise no more oats than is necessary for feeding, and no
barley unless you can save it bright. No. 1 barley is worth about as much as wheat;
discolored barley little more than oats. The chief dependence for many will be
wheat and flax, since these two grains bear longer transportation than any other
crop.
Three Horse Teams. — In breaking prairie, and in fact, in all difficult plowing,
use three strong horses abreast if you have them. The third horse is a good
investment. Such a team walks right along,
even and true, without difficulty, and will do
half as much again plowing per day, with the
same driver, as two horses will. Plowing day
after day, although not exhausting to the driver,'
is so to the team, and very few pairs of horses
can be found that will stand a six weeks' or two
months' campaign of breaking without failing.
The third horse will make a difference in favor of
twenty to thirty acres in the amount of breaking
during the season, according to the quality of
the team.
Driving Three Abreast.— How to drive
three horses abreast is shown in the figure. When
the team becomes perfectly manageable, the hnes
a, a, and 6, h, may be dispensed with, and the
middle horse simply tethered to the inside bitts of the outside horses.
Hitching Three Abreast. — How to hitch three horses abreast, in a simple
way, is shown by the next cut. The evener is the same as that used for two horses ;
the whiffletrees have each a long and a short arm, the long arm twenty-four inches in
length and the short one, made of bar iron or steel ^ by ^ inch. Fasten by a
REINS FOE THEEB HOESES ABEEAST.
COMFORT AND PROFIT IN THE HOMESTEAD.
279
THEEE-HORSB DRAFT.
bolt, SO it will play; hitch as shown in the cut, being careful that each trace
draws evenly, and it will work at plowing or with any other similar draft.
Turning Flat Furrows. — To turn flat fur-
rows, the mold-board of the plow must be of the
proper shape. This is shown on page 271. The
furrow must have the proper twist in passing over
the mold-board. This is shown in the accompanying
cuts, and the greatest possible thickness of furrow,
in relation to its breadth, to do good work, is also
shown. Observe well what has been said in relation
to depth of furrow, in prairie-breaking. In turn-
ing meadow sward, deeper breaking is advisable.
A vertical view is also shown of the plow and furrow,
with the common three-horse whiffletrees in ordinary use.
IX. The Second Year's Crop.
The second year, sow all the breaking of the previous year to wheat, principally.
If flaxseed can be sold, also sow
liberally of this, but the seed
soon deteriorates and should be
often changed. (See article on
flax). Sow the wheat as early,
in the spring as the soil can be
worked. Later, sow what oats
you need; then barley, if the
price is fair, and later, just
before corn-planting time, sow
the flax.
VERTICAL VIEW OF BREAKING PLOW.
Diversity of Crops. —
The advantage of a diversity of
crops is, if one fails you can
have another to depend on.
You also prevent your harvest
coming on all together, which
is an important point. A small
area — the best you have — should
be reserved for the garden, for
potatoes, and for a field of corn
sufficient, with the oats, to feed
the team and make meal . Upon
this land haul all the manure you
have made, and plow it well in.
iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiuumiii
FLAT FURROWS— BREAKING.
From this time on, break all the new land possible, and chop in corn. It will
280 THE HOME AWD FARM MANUAL.
make excellent feed for milch cows, calves, steers, working oxen and hogs. Backset
this at the proper time for the next year's work.
X. The Third Year's "Work.
The third year's work will be a repetition of that of the first year, except that
the whole of the first year's breaking should be sown to wheat, and with it, timothy,
orchard grass and red clover ; each variety by itself. The object being, first the seed,
because these seeds bring good prices and will bear longer transportation than any
other product; they also bring cash.
The First Pastures. — The timothy will, for two years, afford a good seed
crop, as well as fall pasture for cattle, which alone must be thus fed, and they not
permitted to eat too close. The clover will afford one crop of hay cut early, the
second crop being taken for seed. The orchard grass will make valuable late pasture.
This should be lightly pastured in the spring, and only when the land is dry. The
same rules will apply, to timothy — ^that is, when it is up a good height, it may be
pastured down once if you have stock enough to do so quickly. It must, however,
be eaten even to give good seed. Clover must not be pastured in the spring, but
may be cut for feeding to hogs and calves, or to milch cows, at night, if necessary.
Permanent Pastures. — From this time, the crops may be more and more
diversified, until all the land is broken and subdued. As the area of wild feed and
hay diminish, meadows of mixed grasses, and a permanent pasture of blue-grass for
spring, fall and winter feeding should be laid down. This should be done as soon as
possible, because prairie hay is not economical, since all prairie grasses come late,
and die with the first frost.
XI. Wind-Breaks and Groves.
In prairie countries, the question of timber is an important one. However
cheap other fuel may be, trees are needed for poles, fence-posts, wagon-racks, levers,
foundations for stacks and, more important than all, shelter for cattle and for the
fields ; this last not the least in importance.
The Timber Plantation. — The timber plantation should be placed where it
will be easy of access, and where, at the same time, it will afford shelter for the
farm buildings and stock. Planted timber has these advantages: you have the
desired varieties just where you want them. Ash will give you timber where
strength is required; catalpa is valuable for posts, stakes, etc.; pine, larch and
spruce for beams and light poles ; chestnut, hickory, butternut and black walnut for
their nuts, and all of the latter for their timber. In forming these, their uses must be
borne in mind. Ten to twelve years bring the nut trees into bearing. The same length
of time forms the most impervious wind-breaks of evergreens, and will give split
posts from the catalpa. Willows and cottonwood are valuable at five or six years old,
and all yearly increase in value. (See Part VI., Chapter VII.)
How to Start a Grove. — Plant your grove as you would a corn field — in rows
four feet apart, but thickly in the rows. These may be gradually thinned to form
COMFORT AND PROFIT IN THE HOMESTEAD.
281
wind-breaks, until the trees stand four feet by four. As they begin to crowd, take
out each alternate row, one way, and then, again, the other. They will now stand
eight feet apart. Still another thinning, at two operations, will leave them sixteen
feet apart. When finally thinned to thirty-two feet each way you have a noble grove,
that has paid its cost many times, and is still worth more than any equal area on the
farm. Your wind-breaks have grown into noble timber, beneath which stock may
find shade in summer and shelter in winter. The increased crops from your fields
have many times repaid their cost, and the farm itself has become of far greater value
than the bare acres would be.
XII. Starting the Orchard.
The wise man, beginning a farm far from nurseries, will provide himself, not
later than the second spring, with material for an orchard, and will have prepared
sufficient land for his permanent garden of small fruits, or at least for the plants.
OECHARD AND WINDBREAKS.
What are called maiden trees — ^trees one year old from the graft — may be ordered,
or budded trees of the previous year.
The Trees to Plant. — Root grafts of apples, pears and cherries; budded
peaches; cuttings of grape, currant and gooseberry; young roots of raspberry and
blackberry ; eyes of rhubard, for the kitchen garden ; and cuttings of cottonwood,
white willow ancJ mulberry ; seeds of catalpa and the nut trees mentioned may be
obtained. Later come seeds of ash-leaved, white-leaved and sugar maples, and of
ash. The apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and the cuttings of the cottonwoods and
willows may be planted in well-pulverized soil, in rows four feet apart by twelve
inches in the rows; the cuttings, except those mentioned above, in two-feet rows by
three inches in the row.
Put nuts in rows eighteen inches apart by six inches in the row, and plant the
other tree seeds thicker.
Transplanting. — A year or two years later, remove to the position where they
are permanently to stand. The first trees may remain in the rows three years. The
other plants and the rhubarb should be taken to the garden the succeeding year.
The Result.; — In the end you will see the economy of all this, when you find
yourself three or four years in advance of your more tardy neighbors. Do not,
however, hide your knowledge. Perhaps some will join you, and thus save expense
282 THE HOJIE AND FARM MANTJAL.
in buying and transportation. Information as to the proper care of all these will be
found in other chapters.
XIII. How to Clear a Timbered Farm.
The clearing of a timbered farm is a very different affair from opening up a
prairie, and yet, aside from the hard labor of chopping and logging, not an unpleas-
ant task. A man may not accomplish results so fast, but some comforts can soon be
attained. When the timber is valuable, money may be earned at once by chopping and
delivering the logs at the mill, either by hauling direct or to the nearest stream to be
rafted.
Saving Valuable Timber. — If not valuable for timber the trees may be cut,
logged/ together in the usual way, and burned, the ashes sold for making potash, or
leached and boiled on the farm. If tjjere be no present sale for them, the valuable
logs, especially walnut and pine, should be rolled into triangular heaps, well raised
from the ground, with skids between each layer, covered with a crotch and pole roof,
and this again with bark', to shed the rain. They wiU thus remain for many years,
with a little looking after, until increasing population demands the erection of mills for
sawing. Of the oak, hickory, maple and other valuable hard woods, the first may be
converted into posts, the second into firewood and the others into rails.
XIV. Making a Olearing and Building the House.
The first thing to be done is, of course, to build a shelter until a clearing suffi-
ciently large for the house may be had.
Trees for Shade. — ^When making this clearing always preserve the largest and
finest of the forest trees for shade and beauty around the house. This is often neg-
lected, and the result is, when the want is felt, small trees must be planted and a gen-
eration pass before these reach a size which could so easily have been attained ' from
the first.
The Other Trees. — These are chopped, logged together and burned, reserving
such logs as will run from ten to twelve inches through for building the house, which
should be about fourteen by sixteen feet. When necessary, another building of the
same size can be added, with a gallery and porch between them.
Laying Foundations. — The logs having been cut and hauled, the four ground
logs are laid and leveled ; saddles are chopped on the front and rear logs ; the two
end logs are laid on these and notches are cut to correspond to the saddles of the
longer logs. Thus, if straight, and none others should be taken, the logs will come
nicely together so as to be easily chinked. For a log house 14 x 16 inside, the
longer logs should be eighteen feet long, and the shorter ones sixteen feet, or the
width of the logs on each side, and almost six inches more at each end for projection.
The four bottom logs being laid, smaller logs, faced on one side, are placed
along the ground. Upon these the floor is to be laid, and they should be so arranged
COMFORT AND PROFIT IN THE HOMESTEAD. 283
that, when the lower log is cut one-third away and faced to form the door-sill, this
floor will come within an inch of that face — all this is, however, sometimes left until
the last work in finishing.
XV. Carrsdng Up the Sides.
The first layer having been finished, continue to roll up the logs, spotting them
true at the corners so they will lie closely together, until a height of six and a half
feet, or more, is reached above the floor.
Places for the door, windows and fireplace are now to be sawed out, and the ends
of the logs held, by temporary slabs, nailed or pinned on, until permanent ones can
be placed.
A BuildiXLg Bee. — It is better still that all these pieces should have been
hewed, the door and hinges, and the window frames gotten ready to be hung, for
then those who have come, perhaps from a distance, to the " raising bee," may with-
out delay assist in doing much valuable labor. The writer remembers helping at one
raising when the settlements were so thin that two of the men came forty miles,
swimming their horses over two rivers. The fireplace may well be four, or even five
feet wide, and four feet high; fuel will be cheap, and much splitting of wood will thus
be saved.
The chimney and fireplace are, of course, to be built outside of the house. If
the measurements have been correctly made, all this sawing-out may be avoided, but
unless every log is most securely stayed, accidents are apt to happen.
XVI. Putting on the Roof.
When the house has reached a height of not less than seven feet above the ground
floor, and eight is better, timbers are laid across and spotted, or notched and saddled,
to the upper logs, so that when the floor is laid it will be level. These logs will sag
less if they are face4 down on two sides, like scanthng. A ridge-pole is then raised
and stayed, and upon this the rafters are laid.
The roof may be one-quarter pitch, or even less. A good way, however, to pre-
pare the foundation ' for the roof, is to carry it up with the gables, by placing the
roofing logs, as the gables are raised, until the center is reached. Upon these shingles
may be directly laid. The best possible form of roof, is to halve logs of the proper
length and form them into troughs. These are securely spotted and pinned to the log
forming the ridge and to those forming the sides of the house. Other troughs are
inverted over these to break joints. No water will ever enter such a roof, if the logs
are sound.
The other way of forming a roof is with " shakes " — rough shingles — split out
with a froe, as thin as possible, one shingle being lapped over the other, and each suc-
cessive layer extending some distance down along the other one. When regular rafters
are used, the ends of the house are often formed of these shakes or clapboards. The
lower floor is usually laid with logs hewed thin and squared at the edges, and the upper
floor, with clapboards jointed on the beams. In fact, so comfortable are log-houses —
284 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
warm in winter and cool in summer — ^that some wealthy people are beginning to lavish
money on them, after the Norwegian style.
XVII. Building the Fireplace.
This should be of stone, if it can be procured. The chimney may be of sticks
thickly plastered with mud. These sticks should be split out of hard wood, be almost
two inches square, and are laid up cob-house fashion, in two parallel lines, one within
the other. The space between is filled with thoroughly tempered clay, and the out and
in sides thickly plastered with the same material.
If carefully built, not carried to within six feet of the hearth, the clay well settled
between the lines of sticks, and once or twice plastered, as it cracks, in drying, there is
little or no danger of fire. In fact, the whole may be built thus, from the ground up,
if a good backing of stone is given to the fireplace. It should, however, be not less
than five feet wide by three feet deep, inside measure, and gradually drawn in, to ar
height of five feet, until the inside measurement of the chimney will be not more
than two feet by eighteen inches.
ADZE-EYED MATTOCK.
XVIII. Chinking the House.
The doors, windows and fireplace being complete, and the floors laid, the spaces
between the logs should be carefully chinked with pieces split running to an edge.
These should be pinned to hold them in place, and the whole thoroughly plastered
with well-tempered clay, thin enough to fill all cracks.
Sometimes chopped spagnum or other moss is mixed with the mortar, and it is
not a bad plan, since it serves, like hair, to bind the mortar. A ladder is arranged to
give passage to the loft, and the house is then ready for the family, and welcome it
will be to those who have been camping out for a month or two. A frame is made
in one corner of the cabin for the bed, unless a veritable bedstead makes a part of
the furniture. The fireplace may be omitted if the emigrant has a stove, though
even if so, the fireplace is most healthful, and will be cheerful in winter. In
summer the stove may occupy a shed, built of clapboards, and covered with bark.
Nails may be used in place of pins, and shingles may be shaved. The log-house may
be built of squared timber, halved together at the ends.
A frame house would certainly be cheaper if the material can be bought or
traded for. We are describing the manner of life where mills are not, and nails
COMFORT AND PROFIT IN THE HOMESTEAD. 285
hardly to be thought of; and, so far as real comfort is concerned, in an humble way,
there are many buildings of greater show less comfortable than a carefully built
log-house. /
XIX. Deadening Timber.
The first crop is often raised under deadened timber, where the larger trees
have been girdled by cutting out a narrow circle around the trunk down through the
sap-wood, before the buds have started. The smaller timber is chopped and burned
with the dry leaves and trash ; all saplings, say those under four inches through, and
all bushes are grubbed with a mattock, to add to the fire. The best form of mattock
is shown in the cut. Then the crop is sown or planted without plowing, and harrowed
or hoed in, so far as small grain is concerned, and the corn and potatoes dropped
where a place offers, and cultivated entirely by hand.
This is tedious and slow, but all the heavily timbered farms of the country were
originally opened in this way. The only revenue while the crop was growing was in
the potash made from the ashes of the burned timber. There are, however, now but
very few localities in the United States where the timber will not pay handsomely for
the labor. Oak and hemlock bark is sought far and wide by tanners. The logs are
sawn into timber and lumber by portable saw-mills, and the cord-wood finds a ready
sale.
XX. The Work of Improvement.
The work of clearing and preparing the timber goes steadily on from year to
year. Field is added to field, each being seeded to grass as soon as possible, until
the smaller stumps can be drawn out. Up to the time when grass can be produced
the stock subsist on what they can find in the summer, on mast in the autumn, and
on the tender twigs and buds of the trees chopped in the winter. Hogs, except in a
very inclement climate, will manage to live the year round, since the ground seldom
freezes deeply in the dense forest, and nuts and roots furnish them with food.
As field after field of grass is added, the calves grow up into cows, and butter and
cheese are made. The idea in clearing timber farms being that all the stock possible
must be carried; the only care necessary being not to keep too many animals until
grass and hay can be made. It takes a great deal of browsing to support a cow, and
it is a make-shift at best.
Feeding grain raised in the laborious manner named must not be thought of.
Only the necessities of the family should be looked after. When grass is produced
add lo your live stock by every possible means. It is indeed hard labor to "hew a
farm from the forest," yet it has many comforts not to be enjoyed by those who
open and improve a prairie. Nevertheless we advise no one to take the timber farm,
from choice, if the prairie may be had.
Still, if the prairie farm is not available, do not refuse the timber because you
are not a chopper. Two months' practice will enable you to swing the "woodman's
axe" deftly, and in three months you can carry the broadaxe "true to the line."
CHAPTER II.
FARMS AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT— LEASING.
I. SOILS INDICATING VAEIETY OF CEOPS. II ADAPTATION OF SOILS TO CROPS. in. ADAPTATION
OF CEOPS TO LOCALITIES IV. STARTING A DAIRY. ^V. WHEN TO SELL THE CEOP. ^VI. STUDY
THE PROBABILITIES. ^VII. WHEN TO HOLD THE CEOP. VIII. HOW TO SELECT A FARM. IX.
IMPOKTANT THINGS TO OONSIDEE. X. SITUATION OF THE FARM. XI. SOME THINGS TO BE
REMEMBERED. XII. LEASING A FARM. XIII. FORMS OP LEASE AND CERTIFICATE. XIV. PLAN
FOR LAYING OUT A FARM. XV. A GARDEN FAR5I.
I. Soils Indicating Variety of Crops.
The crop best suited to the soil may generally be told by the natural or wild vege-
tation found upon it. Hazel brush and red root (the hard, woody-rooted species) are
indications of a good wheat soil. Why? They tell of a rich, and at the same time,
firm soil. All the cereal crops will do well on such land. As a rule, our upland
prairie soils are rich in the phosphates and potash. Heavy-timbered lands usually
have what may be called hard or firm soils, well adapted to wheat, rye, sorghum,
sweet potatoes, onions, and, when there is moisture enough, to flat turnips and the
pasture grasses.
The lower lands, covered with timber, often resemble what are known as soft
soils; that is, they contain much humus, and are adapted to Indian corn, the common
potato, garden crops, and the meadow grasses.
II. Adaptation of Soils to Crops.
Upon the prairie, both firm and soft soils are found. When stiff or gravelly clay
comes near the surface, they are hard lands, adapted to winter wheat, barley, rye and
oats, to sorghum, sweet potatoes and onions. When well fertilized, with barn-yard
manure, they are also good for garden crops and the cultivated grasses.
This hard soil will be prolific in a variety of rather short grasses, and of the
low-growing flowering plants. The lower lands, where the grass is taller, and where
sunflowers, various species of helianthus, iron-weed, wild artichoke and all that flower-
bearing class thrive, or where are found the compass-plant or rosin-weed, are humus,
and, generally, potash soils. Such lands are adapted to Indian corn, the common
potato, to oats, and in a lesser degree, and when not subject to wet in the spring, to
barley and spring wheat. Sorghum also does fairly well on some of these low-lying
soils, especially when they have been drained. Drainage also fits them well for the >
cultivated grasses. As a rule, the greater the variety of wild plants natural to the soil
the better is the soil for general agriculture, for such variety shows that the soil is not
[286]
FARMS AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT. LEASING. 287
oniy well drained, but that it contains a variety of the elements of plant-food in a
soluble condition.
III. Adaptation of Crops to Localities.
When far from a market it would be unwise to cultivate much corn or oats, unless
the farmer has stock to feed it to. If his stock is cattle and hogs he would still be
wrong in raising large fields of oats to fatten them. His crops, as before stated; must
be of wheat, barley, linseed, grass and clover seed. Live stock being his main object,
hogs, being the most easily multiplied, come first, then horned cattle, and lastly, as
the country becomes more settled and free from predatory animals, sheep. All these
may be driven long distances on foot to reach a market.
As stock increases, Indian corn is more and more largely raised and pastures are
steadily increased. Later a regular rotation is established; then railroads come to
lessen the cost of transportation, and crops become more and more diversified from
the increasing demand as towns and villages spring up.
IV, Starting a Dairy.
The wise man is he who foresees what this increasing population naturally
requires, and meets the demand. He, for example, obtains a herd of really good
milking cows in advance of his neighbors. If there is not a good demand for milk,
he has the best procurable machinery and implements put in for converting the milk
into butter or cheese, and establishes his market. Others see that there is profit in
this, and may solicit him to manufacture their milk also, and this often grows to a
large and profitable business, the farmer almost unwittingly lapsing into the tradesman
and manufacturer. A careful study of the various crops will, however, indicate
many other lines of possible profit that may be built up by a careful study of soil,
climate, locality, and the crojDs adapted to the increasing wants of a growing
community.
The Dairy-House. — A dairy-house, even though only an adjunct to the farm,
is almost a necessity upon a large, well-managed country-place, and we herewith give
a plan for the building required.
The cut, however, contains several errors. The corner of the barn-stable is
drawn too near, for, although the dairy must always be fairly near the milking-yard,
it should be removed from all animal or other foul odors ; cleanliness being a neces-
sary element of success. The eaves should also project more than is shown, or the
dairy must be protected from the southern sun by an awning. The roof of the
gallery or porch protects it there, and the porch itself serves for spreading tins and
other utensils to dry and sweeten in the air.
The Building Described. — The building occupies 24 x 30 feet of ground, and
eight feet between floors. This will be sufiicient for the product of forty cows, or
with improved fixtures, of more than that number. The lower floor should be divided
into two rooms; one for butter, the other for cheese. The attic is the curing-room
2.S8
THE MO^IE AND FARM MANT'AL.
for cheese, and has, besides the ventilator in the roof, open spaces in the sides which
may be closed by wickets, and which serve to admit the air.
>
a
o
:3
3
An abundance of fresh, cold water, or of ice, must be at hand, as well as the
necessary fixtures, including presses for cheese-making, tanks for setting cream, etc.,
FARMS AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT. LEASING. 289
all of which should be of the best patterns. If the soil will allow, a cellar should be
dug, and, in all cases, the drain-pipes and drainage must be of the most thorough
character.
Dairy Pixtxtres. — May now be bought com-
plete, from certain dealers, who will supply
everything required in a factory or creamery,
from a steam engine to the simplest implement.
The cut shows ouq of the many forms of butter-
workers used. It is simply a slab, preferably
of slate or marble, and has no sharp corners or
BUTTEE-WOEKEE. i j. t. i j
cracks to be cleaned.
V. When to Sell the Crop.
The knowledge of when and how to sell the crops of a farm, is among the most
important of the many elements that go to make success in farming. The man who
blindly accepts the prices bid by the grain buyer in his local market is apt to come
out loser. The farmer can tell the value of his crop on the farm as well as anybody
else, if he keeps himself informed as to freights, prices in central markets, insurance
and storage.
If he does this he can always get full value for his products, even if there is no
competition among buyers, or if there is only one buyer in the market.
The farmer can always ship direct to some reputable house in a central market,
or he can combine with neighbors and do so. This will soon bring the local buyer
to terms, since he can make some profit, as between the transportation rates that he
gets and those which the farmer gets, who ships in smaller quatities.
The farmer can often contract his whole crop for less money per bushel than he
will sell one bushel for, and still make money. If he has kept himself informed on
prices, and the probable crop of a given commodity, he may often contract to deliver
at a stipulated time, and get far more money per bushel than his neighbor, who sells
his crop in a kind of " hit or miss " way, a few bushels at a time, just as he feels in
the humor for " going to town."
VI. Study the Probabilities.
The ideal time to sell is when the market is at the highest, or as near this point
as possible. You cannot find this out by asking the village buyer. You could no
more expect him to tell you that which might take money out of his pocket, than your
neighbor could expect you to tell him of a trade that would take money out of your
pocket.
The man who waits day by day for the market to go higher, and then refuses to
sell when it has fallen somewhat from the highest point, is very apt to sell at the low-
est pi'ice. In like manner, the farmer who ships on his own account and holds until
the highest market price is past, usually finds his produce reaching tide-water about
the time the lowest market is reached.
19
290 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL
The fluctuations of the market are caused by so many varying influences that the
wisest often are deceived. But the farmer who carefully figures profit and loss, who
carefully studies the probable markets, who makes up his mind what should be a fair
price, and sells when that price is reached, seldom makes failures. He may not,
indeed, make " a hit " every time, but the " good hits" will be so largely beyond the
bad ones that he will have no serious cause for complaint.
VII. When to Hold the Crops.
In a country so large as the United States there is little chance that there will be
a failure of a given crop all over the country in any one year. The transportation
facilities and the increasing railway extension year by year, preclude famine prices in
any locality. The man who holds a crop of grain, wool, or other perishable commod-
ity, hoping to get famine prices, always gets beaten.
The time to hold a crop is from seasons of general plenty and low prices to a
season of scarcity and high prices. In this, storage, interest on the capital em-
ployed, insurance against fire, insects and shrinkage in weight must always be taken
into account. If the present price be so low that it will pay to hold in spite of
all these items of expense, do so, but as a rule the best price in any one year is the
best price for all time.
VIII. How to Select a Farm.
- The selection of a farm more or less improved requires not only taste and judg-
ment, but the ability to estimate correctly the cost of making all those minor improve-
ments which render a place desirable, as well as estimate the natural advantages" of
the farm. Few of the farmers who have made these improvements are able to tell
what they have cost, and not many who buy farms really appreciate their true value.
A piece of land with partly worn fences and inferior buildings is really worth less than
the raw prairie adjoining it.
Never buy a farm with indifferent fences and buildings, unless the natural advan-
tages are such as to compensate for these deficiencies. A good orchard, wind-breaks
in suitable positions, a grove, careful drainage, a man can afford to pay liberally for.
A stream of water on natural situations, for ponds; natural protection by hills or
timber from storms are always to be taken into account The proximity of large
bodies of water is often of great value in tempering a climate. A soil may be
unproductive from bad management, and yet the real fertility may be little impaired.
If the proposing buyer has made soils and their management a study, he may-
profit thereby in buying such a farm. There are plenty of these for sale in the best
neighborhoods. It is for this reason that eventually the best farms are graduallj'
concentrated in the hands of a few keen persons. Their previous owners were poor
farmers, and the soil is rather inert from bad management, than worn out by severe
cropping.
FARMS AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT. LEASING. 291
IX. Important Things to Consider.
The first consideration in seeking a new home, is soil; the next is situation; the
third is water, and the fourth, drainage. We put drainage last, for the reason that
very few farms really lack the slope necessary to natural drainage, though the diffi-
culty arises sometimes that the outfall of the drainage lies on land beyond the limits
of the farm.
Testing the Soil. — The fertility of the soil can be judged pretty accurately by
the vegetation growing thereon ; the texture by vax'ious means ; the depth by boring.
If the surface soil, upon being wetted and kneaded, becomes pasty and tough,
resembling putty, it indicates a stiff clay. If the subsoil contains some gravel,
however little, it will indicate sufficient sand, also, for easy percolation of water. A
black deep soil indicates humus, suitable for corn, oats, potatoes and grass. If it
may readily be compressed under foot, spring wheat, barley and rye will do well oil it.
If the soil is a chocolate color, or lighter brown, it indicates considerable sand. If of
a light or ashen color (silicious clay), a wheat and fruit soil will be indicated. In
this way a careful examination will enable any thinking man to decide pretty accu-
rately as to the composition and capability of the farm.
Plow and. Pasture Land. — The relative proportion of plow and pasture land
must also be taken into consideration, though as a rule a good grain farm will be a
good grass farm. Remember always that good grass is the foundation of successful
farming.
X. Situation of the Farm.
The situation of a farm is not considered by the average farmer as of great
importance, yet a good building site is often worth half the price of the farm. It
should be sufficiently elevated to be above danger of miasma, and yet easy of access,
and even on the largest farms not more than a quarter of a mile from a main road.
The rise to the buildings should be easy, and, if possible, the whole farm should lie
in view of the top of the house or barn.
If a stream meanders through the farm or is capable of being turned to supply a
pond, so much the better. Or if pipes may be laid to reach the house and barn it
will be a valuable improvement.
Oak, maple, hickory, black walnut, wild cherry and ash are the most valuable
timbers. If the fences are in good order, and if the house — however small and
rough — is well cared for as to its surroundings, you may be pretty sure the land has
not suffered seriously.
But, when you find a farm thoroughly in order, with buildings and fixtures, the
full value will have to be paid. The owner will pretty well understand what it has
cost, and the man who has once put his farm into perfect home condition is seldom
in a hurry to leave it. Yet good, natural features unimproved are not rare to those
who have the eyes to see them. Excellent places are plentiful in timbered districts
where homes can be made, but the farms in timbered districts will average smaller
292 THE HOME AJST) FARM MANTJAL.
than in prairie regions, and where there is an original growth of hickory, burr oak,
black walnut, sugar maple, white wood (tulip tree), the soil and subsoil will generally
be excellent.
XI. Some Things to be Remembered.
In Malarious Districts. — Do not select a farm in a malarious district, unless
the situation is high. Even then it is better that you satisfy yourself as to the prob-
able health of your family before buying. A very low-priced farm in such a
district is to be very carefully investigated before buying.
Costly Improvements. — Never buy a farm with costly improvements in build-
ings and planting, if they are not suitable to your wants, unless the price is so low
that you can afford to alter and reconstruct. A run-down farm, if the soil is there,
is the place to improve to your liking; but be sure that the farm is adapted to the
crops you intend to cultivate. A high and dry farm is not adapted to grass, neither
is moist, cold land, subject to every sweep of the wind, adapted to fruit. But, if
protected by wind-breaks, the wet, cold land, after drainage, will be excellent for
grass; and, if not too tough, will make good grain land. If your system of farming
requires large amounts of manure, a location near some city will greatly cheapen the
cost of getting manure. The other remedy, and a good one always, is to keep plenty
of stock.
Rocky Farms. — Do not buy a rocky, hilly or stumpy farm, unless pasturage
is your object, and then the price should be low. For stock, except sheep, the
moderately level land is always the best. If the soil is stiff and wet, under-draining
will cure it, and such soils when under-drained, are generally the most productive;
but it will cost from fifty to eighty dollars for every acre you thoroughly under-drain.
All this must be figured in.
Too Much Land. — ^Do not buy too much land. The necessary repairs must
be made, implements bought, the farm must be stocked, and a proper sum reserved
for working capital. Fifty acres to each hand to be employed is fully as much as a
good manager should undertake to work, even in the West, where the obstacles to
thorough cultivation are less than in most other countries, unless stock-feeding is to
be the principal object.
Foresight Necessary. — Before you decide finally, remember that farming
requires fully as much thought as any other business ; but all the requirements may
soon be mastered by application. Farming is no longer the drudgery it was fifty
years ago. The comforts and the elegancies are by no means to be overlooked. The
man with five thousand dollars, or more, of capital, especially if he have a growing
family, needing schools, may do far better to invest the money in an improved or
partly improved farm, with schools, churches and society, rather than isolate them by
going to the far "West, and buying himself "land poor."
XII. Leasing a Farm.
We do not advise any man who has money enough to stock a farm, however
FAEMS AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT. LEASING. 293
moderately, to lease. If, however, it is desirable to lease a farm, on account of the
advantages offered by society, settlements and markets, nothing should be left to
chance. Everything must be in black and white, and so plainly stated in the lease
that there can be no room for dispute. Every permanent improvement made by the
tenant should be paid for by the landlord, and every improvement made by the land-
lord, at the request of the tenant, will become an additional consideration.
Some leases are so carefully drawn, that the number of loads of manure to be
made yearly is a condition, and to what particular crops these are to be applied; even
the rotation of crops is often stipulated. The object, both of the tenant and landlord,
is to get as good terms as possible for himself. In making a contract, of whatever
kind, avoid all unnecessary words, and be sure that the meaning is clear.
XIII. Forms of Lease and Certificates.
We append here forms of a lease and certificates of landlord and tenant. Forms
are usually printed, to be filled in, and it is necessary that this printed wording be
carefully noted, as heretofore suggested. Here are the forms:
INDENTUEE OF LEASE.
This indenture, made the day of , in the year one thousand eight hundred and — , between
of , in the county of , and State of , [State business of owner or agent] of the first part,
and , of , in the said county, farmer, of the second part, WITNESSETH : that the said party of
the first part, for and in consideration of the rents, covenants, and agreements hereinafter mentioned,
reserved and contained, on the part and behalf of the party of the second part, his executors, administra-
tors and assigns, to be paid, kept and performed, has leased, demised and to farm let, and by these
presents does lease, demise, and to farm let, unto the said party of the second part, his executors, admin-
istrators and assigns, all [insert full description of premises]: To have and to hold the said above
mentioned and described premises, with the appurtenances, unto the said party of the second part, his
executors, administrators and assigns, from the daj' of , one thousand eight hundred and — ,
for and during, and until the full end and terra of years thence next ensuing, and fully to be complete
and ended, yielding and paying therefor, unto the said party of the first part, his heirs or assigns, yearly
and every year, during the said term hereby granted, the yearly rent or sum of dollars, lawful
money of the United States of America, in equal quarter [or, half] yearly payments — to wit : on the
day of [name the months intended], in each and every year during the said term: Provided, always,
nevertheless, that if the yearly rent above reserved, or any part thereof, shall be behind or unpaid, on
any day of payment whereon the same ought to be paid, as aforesaid; or if default shall be made in any
of the covenants herein contained, on the part and behalf of the said party of the second part, his
executors, administrators and assigns, to be paid, kept and performed, then and from thenceforth it shall
and may be lawful for the said party of the first part, his heirs or assigns, into and upon the said demised
premises, and every part thereof, wholly to re-enter and the same to have again, repossess and enjny, as
in his or their first and former estate, anything hereinbefore contained to the contrary thereof in any
wise notwithstanding.
And the said party or the second part, for himself and his heirs, executors and adminis-
trators, doth covenant and agree, to and with the said party of the first part, his heirs and assigns, by
these presents, that the said party of the second part, his executors, administrators or assigns, shall
and will, yearly, and every year, during the term hereby granted, well and ti'uly pay, or cause to be
paid, unto the said party of the first part, his heirs or assigns, the said yearly rent above reserved, on
the days, and in the manner limited and prescribed, as aforesaid, for the payment thereof, without any
deduction, fraud or delay, according to the true intent and meaning of these presents: [if so agreed,
add: and that the said party of the second, part, his executors, administrators, or assigns, shall and
2it4 THE HOJEE AND FARM MANUAL.
will, at their own proper costs and charges, hear, pay, and discharge all such taxes, duties, and assess-
ments whatsoever, as shaU or may, during the said term hereby granted, he charged, assessed or
imposed upon the said described premises ;] and that on the last day of the said term, or other sooner
determination of the estate hei-eby granted, the said party of the second part, his executors, administra-
tors, or assigns, shall and will peaceably and quietly leave, surrender, and yield up, unto the said partj-^
of the first part, his heirs or assigns, all and singular, the said demised premises. And the saii>
PARTY OF THE FIRST PART, for himself, his heirs, and assigns, doth covenaut and agree, by these
presents, that the said party of the second part, his executors, administrators, or assigns, paying the
said yearly rent above reserved, and performing the covenants and agreements aforesaid, on his and
their part, the said party of the second part, his executors, administrators, and assigns, shall and may
at all times during the said term hereb)' granted, peaceably and quietly have, hold and enjoy the said
demised premises, without any let, suit, trouble, or hindrance, of or from the said party of the first
part, his heirs or assigns, or any other person or persons whomsoever.
In witness vthereof, the parties hereto have hereunto interchangeably set their hands and seals
this day of one thousand eight hundred and
Signed, sealed, and delivered \ [Signatures and seals.']
in the presence of /
[Signature of witness.]
landlord's certificate of letting farm with stock and tools.
This is to certift, that I have, this day of , 18 — , let and rented unto , of , in
the county of , a certain farm situate in the town and county aforesaid, and bounded as follows
[description] : with the appurtenances, and also with the use, profits, and behoof of the following named
stock and farming utensils, cattle, horses, and stock now being or to be on the said premises within
described, on and fi-om the day of , 18 — , during the time below stated — viz, [here describe all
machinery, farm stock and, farming utensils] , on the said farm now remaining and being, and the sole
and uninteiTupted use and occupation thereof, for the term of ^from the day of , 18 — , at
the yearly rent of dollars, payable on the first daj' of January, with the refusal of the same for
[state time of extension] years more at the same rent, upon the said -giving me notice in writing of
his intention to renew the lease on or befoi'e the day of , 18 — .
[Date.] [Signature.]
tenant's certificate.
This is to certify, that I have, this day of , 18 — . rented of , of , his farm.
and have agreed to the following covenants, viz, [here describe every individual thing that is to be
performed.] I also promise to use the horses, oxen, wagons, sleighs and other tools carefully, and to
return them in as good condition as they are now, the necessary wear excepted, together with possession
of the fai-m and buildings, on the day of , 18 — .
[Date.] [Signature.]
Chattel Security. — It is sometimes required that tenants pledge chattels as
security for payment of rent, etc., or that they give secunty therefor. The first
annexed form shows a tenant's pledge; the second, security for rent, etc. Append
to the tenant's certificate of letting the farm, or the lease, the following:
tenant's certificate pledging his chattels on the premises as security.
And I do hereby pledge and mortgage to the said all my personal property of what kind
soever which is or may be on the premises aforesaid, for the faithful performance of the covenauts
herein, hereby authorizing the said , iu case of a failure on my part to perfonn all or any of said
covenants, to take said property so pledged, and sell the same, and out of the proceeds of such sale to
pay and discharge all rent, damages and expenses, which may at such time be due, and to pay over to
me or my assigns the surplus moneys arising from such sale. [Signature of tenant.]
FARMS AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT. LEASING.
295
SECURITY FOR KENT AND PERFORMANCE OP COVENANTS.
In consideration of the letting of the premises above described, and for the sum of one dollar, I do
hereby become sm'ety for the pimctual payment of the rent, and performance of the covenants in the
above written agreement mentioned, to be paid and performed by as therein specified; and if any
default shall at any time be made therein, I do hereby pi'omise and agree to pay unto the landlord in
said agreement named the said rent, or any arrears thereof that may be due, and fully satisfy the
conditions of the said agreement, and all damages that may accrue by reason of the non-fulfillment
thereof without requiring notice or proof of demand being made.
Given under my hand and seal, the day of , 18 — . [Signature and seal.^
ANOTHER FORM.
In consideration of the letting of the premises above described [or, for value received], I guarantee
the punctual payment of the I'ent [and performance of the covenants] in the above agreement mentioned
to be paid and performed by said lessee, without requiring any notice of non-payment or non-perform-
ance, or proof of notice or demand being made, whereby to charge me therefor.
[DiJe.] [Signature.^
'*■•=■*■■■- — ----TTIi""'
^-— '""""■"■-—
^
**=
WW
m::
4\ ^^ — —
PUBLIC HIGH -WAY
DIAGRAM OF FARM.
XIV. Plan for Laying Out a Farm.
The careless, haphazard method so often practiced in laying out a farm and in
dividing it into fields is well worthy of improvement. A careful study of the peculi-
296
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
arities of the farm is necessary in selecting the building site, laying out the farm
roads, conveying water to the fields, and in deciding as to the proper sites for perma-
nent pastures and wood-lot, if such is to be planted.
As a rule it is better that the farm-house and other buildings should occupy a
central position. Yet circumstances may prevent this. The configuration of the
land may even render it necessary that it be on one corner of the farm. A ridge
running diagonally through the farm may render this necessary. However it may be,
the fields should be arranged both as respects rotation, and also so that each one may
be reached by the farm road.
Map of the Farm. — When no serious obstacles intervene, the diagram will
show the a:rrangement of the house lot, garden, orchard, grove and home pasture,
etc., in a location central upon one side of the farm, with private road, showing how
every field may be reached : 1, is the house, back from the public road; 2, the lawn
and house lot; 3, the kitchen garden, a parallelogram, for convenience in horse-
cultivation; 4, small fruit, and dwarf fruit tree garden; 5, the barn-yard; 6, the
orchard of standard trees; and 7, a home-pasture and artificial grove. It will be
seen that every field is a parallelogram, or
oblong square, showing gates leading to the
several fields. The dotted lines show trees
planted along the lines of fence, or they may
be hedges for shade and shelter for stock.
XV. A Garden Farm.
Many persons in laying out a place are at
a loss how to arrange a garden. The ground
plan of "a garden farm," shows a forty
acre lot, when gardening is the principal in-
dustry. The house lot contains eight acres.
The dark portions show shrubbery, planted
thickly, and the smaller deciduous and ever-
green trees for shade, etc. ; the light shaded
portions at the sides and rear of the house may
be used for dwarf fruits, asparagus, rhubarb,
nursery stock, etc.
Along the winding walk beds of flowers
may be planted. Around the outer border of
the place plant standard fruit trees, for shade
and shelter. A road runs through the farm
with a circle at the end for turning about, and
caiaMtisc.'c there is a road around every field to cart
a GARDEN faem. manure in, and to cart out the produce; this
road space is also necessary for turning when working the land.
FARMS AND THEIR IMPROVEMENT. LEASING. 297
These roadways may all be in grass, so that they may be utilized for hay-making
or pasturing. A A, may be in orchard trees and small fruits; and B, C, D, E, F, G,
will give ample area for gardening and other crops, and at the same time allow for
rotation.
If this plan is to form simply the farm-house place and lawn, and kitchen
garden, etc., H and J may contain the garden and small fruits, F and G the home
orchard and pasture, and the rest of the plat used, as desired, as part of the farm.
CHAPTEE III.
FENCES, HEDGES AND GATES.
RELATIVE COST OP FENCES AND BUILDINGS. U. COST OF FABM FENCES IN THE UNITED STATES.
III. THE COST OF FENCE PER ROD. IV. WORM, OR VIRGINIA FENCES. V. STAKING AND
RIDERING THE FENCE.- — VI. POST AND RAIL FENCE. Vn. PREPARING THE TIMBER.^ VIII.
MORTISING THE POSTS AND SHARPENING THE RAILS. IX. SETTING THE POSTS. X. FASTEN-
ING THE RAILS AND FINISHING. XI. ' HOW TO BUILD A BOARD FENCE. ^XII. STRINGING A WIRE
FENCE. xni. SOD-AND-DITCH FENCE. XIV. COMPOUND FENCES. XV. PORTABLE FENCES.
XVI. FENCING STEEP HILLSIDES.^XVII BARS AND GATES. XVIII. THE SLIDE AND SWINGING
GATE. XIX. SWING GATES AND SLIDE GATES EXPLAINED. XX. SELF-CLOSING SLIDE GATES
XXI. SOUTHERN STRAP-HINGE FARM GATE. ^XXII. DOUBLE-BRACED GATE. XXIII. ADJUST-
ABLE SWING GATE. XXIV. HOW TO PREVENT POSTS FROM SAGGING. ^XXV. ORNAMENTAL
GATES. XXVT. FLOOD AND WATER GATES XXVII. STREAM GATE AND FOOTWAY.
I. Relative Cost of Fences and Buildings.
|H0SE States of the American Union having cast-iron laws regulating the kind
offence and the space between boards or rails, would do well to repeal them. It
is a generally accepted fact that the fences of the country cost more than the
buildings. They must be renewed, on an average, about once in twelve years.
The Secretary of the "Wisconsin Stalte Agricultural Society, a few years ago, estimated
the cost of the perishable fences of the State to be $40,000,000, reckoning one rod of
fence at 85 cents. More recently, a careful and unprejudiced observer, Mr. David
Williams, of Walworth county, Wis., says:
" I have, with the assistance of a number of well-informed farmers of this county,
made a careful computation of the first cost, annual deterioration, per cent, and cost
of annual repair. There are sixteen townships, or seven hundred and fifty-six square
miles, in the county. Estimating one-sixteenth as lake, ponds, or abandoned lands,
gives five hundred and forty square miles, or 345,600 acres of improved or inclosed
land. This, if fenced into 40-acre lots, will require five rods of fence to the acre (a
careful estimate gives 25 acres as the average size of fields), or 1,728,000 rods of
fence, exclusive of ornamental and village fences. Estimating one-eighth of this as
division fence, and therefore duplicated in the foregoing estimate, and to include also
temporary and comparatively worthless fence, will give in even numbers 1,500,000
rods of farm fence for the county, 100,000 rods for each township (one-sixteenth of
the total area having been thrown out of the estimate as lakes, ponds or abandoned
lands) of improved or inclosed lands. From carefully prepared data, I find about
two-fifths to be highway fence, making 600,000 rods of highway fence for the county,
and 40,000 rods for each township.
" Estimating the cost of this fence at $1 per rod gives $1,500,000 for the county,
and $100,000 for each township. Two-fifths of this for highway fences gives $600,000
FENCES, HEDGES AND GATES. 299
for the county and $40,000 for each township, or a total cost of all farm fence of
$4.34, nearly, per acre, and a cost of $1.73 per acre of highway fence. Estimating
10 per cent on first cost for annual deterioration and repairs, and 7 per cent interest
on first cost, gives $275,000 as the aggregate annual cost of farm fence for the county,
and $18,333.33 for each township. Fully two-fifths of this are for highway fence.
If to this sum be added the cost of village fences — mainly made necessary by the per-
nicious habit of using the highway. as a public pasture — the total cost of fence for the
county will be swelled to the considerable sum of $1,750,000, and the annual cost to
$297,500."
II. Cost, of Farm Fences in the United States.
The cost of the farm fences in the United States has been estimated at $1,350,-
000,000, and their annual maintenance at $250,000,000. Thirty years ago, the
annual cost of repairing fences in Pennsylvania was about $10,000,000. The annual
cost of fencing in New York State was placed at $13,500,000. In Illinois and some
other Western States, fencing is not compulsory. The people of a county or town-
ship can decide by vote, whether they will have fences at all, or what shall constitute
a lawful fence. This should be the rule everywhere.
No-Fence Laws. — ^When tried in Livingston county, Illinois, some years ago,
the no-fence law worked excellently. We have had cattle herded within a few rods
of standing corn, and they would take the road, morning and evening, quietly enough
under the care of the herdsmen. It is cheaper to fence cattle in than to fence them
out, especially in all neighborhoods where pasturage is not the principal industry.
III. The Cost of Pence per Rod.
The statute laws of the United States do not require fences. It is simply the
law of custom, and many of the circumstances which originally gave countenance to
the local laws have become obsolete. Let us take a section of land, which is six
hundred and forty acres. To enclose this, will require 1,280 rods of fence, which at
a dollar per rod, would 6ost $1,280. To divide this into 160-acre lots, would require
640 rods more of fence, or $640. To divide these again into forty-acre fields
would require 1,280 rods more, or, in all, 3,100 rods of fence. The annual repairs
on this will be at least t6n per cent of the cost, or $310.
The smaller the farm the more the fences cost, since the fields are smaller. But
the cost of the fence is not all; they diminish the cultivatable area. If enclosed by a
hedge, at least half a rod in width of land will be lost. In fact little can be grown
within eight feet of a hedge on either side. If a board or wire fence is made, the
loss will be at least four feet, to say nothing of the harbor for weeds. In a section
of land the loss amounts to nearly ten acres.
IV. Worm, or Virginia Fence.
The old-fashioned worm (Virginia) fences are seldom found outside timbered
districts. They are unsightly, take up too much land, and are great harborers of
300
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
PANELS or VIRGINIA FENCE.
weeds. They should be replaced at the first opportunity with post-and-rail, or other
straight fence. Their only advantage lies in the ease of getting out the material,
laying it up and transferring it when no longer wanted.
How to Build. — ^The width — allowing eleven feet as the length of the rails — :
should be four and a half feet, certainly never under four feet, from outside to out-
side of "the worm," as the zigzag line of the fence is
called. Set two lines of .stakes this distance apart.
Then, the rails having been delivered as near the outside
of one of these lines as possible, lay a rail on the ground,
so that each of its ends projects beyond one of the stakes
six inches. Then lay another rail, so that its butt shall ,
overlap by six inches one end of that first laid, and, being
placed at an angle of, say, 130° to 140" thereto, so the
other end of the second rail shall lie in line ^svith the other
row of stakes. Reverse the angle of opening with each succeeding rail until you
have one laid along the whole line, much in the shape of a number of capital W's,
but more open, so laid as to touch, or, rather, to slightly overlap.
Blocks eighteen inches long and six inches thick should be provided for every
panel of fence. Place one of these blocks under each end, and bring every corner
true to the line of stakes as you go back. Then, lay successive rails, from the point
where you first began, to the far end, and walking back to the place of beginning,
so proceed until you g6t six or seven rails in height, according to the intended height
of the fence. As the fence is laid keep the corners vertical (in a direct line up and
down), and of equal, height one with another, by laying the big end of the rail one
way or the other, as occasion may require.
V. Staking and Ridering the Virginia Fence.
The fence is now ready for the stakes and top rails, or riders. The stakes are
better if sharpened at one end and with the other end square. Make the holes for
the stakes by thrusting the spade in the ground
from, and diagonally with the corners, to receive
the stakes, and at a proper distance so the stakes
will not only lie kindly but at the same time
receive and lock the rail. A little practice and
observation will soon enable any one to do this
deftly. When two stakes ar? set lay one end of
a rail in the fork of the stakes, and the other on
top of the next rail. Set two more stakes, lay
on the rail as before, and so proceed — having
reserved two of the heaviest rails for riders in laying the fence — until the whole line
is staked. Then walk back and lay the remaining rail on top of all. The stakes
are sometimes set in the middle of the panel instead of at the corners, but whatever
LOCKED VIRGDJIA FENCE.
FENCES, HEDGES AND GATES.
301
PERPENDICULAR STAKING AND CAPPING.
may have been said as to the advantage of this plan, the fence is neither so -strong
against animals nor the wind, as when staked at the corners.
The cut entitled "Panels of Virginia Fence" illustrates perpendicular staking
and capping, which make a neat and firm fence.
Here see an illustration of four sections of Vir-
ginia fence with the caps laid parallel with the
line of the fence. By this method one man can
set the stakes, since both are on the same side of
the fence.
Straight Bail Pence. — Another simple and good way of making fence of
rough rails is to prepare stout stakes, and also cross-pieces fourteen inches long.
These are set in the ground, a cross-piece nailed on
near the ground, the rails laid in, another cross-
piece nailed, two more rails laid, the next two
stakes set, and so, proceeding precisely as directed
for laying up the rails for Virginia fence. In this
case no caps are needed, but it is better to have the
tops of the stakes square so that a cap-piece can be
nailed on top to hold the last rails.
Seeding to Grass. — If the strip of ground
'"h.
STRAIGHT FENCE WITH STAKES.
on which a Virginia fence is laid is seeded down to
blue-grass, red-top, orchard grass or some other
persistent grass, say ten feet wide, it will prevent
the growth of weeds and furnish valuable pasturage late in the autumn, and in the
spring when the fields are not occupied with crops. The same rule will apply to
all fences, whether wood, stone, hedge, ditch or wire.
VI. Post-and-Rail Pence.
The next most common fence, when timber is plentiful, is of heavy posts prop-
erly mortised, and with rails properly sharpened to lap together in the mortises.
The Best Posts. — The best posts are first, red cedar, and then catalpa, osage
orange, locust, yellow or white cedar, bur oak
and swamp oak, lasting in the order mentioned.
The first two will last indefinitely ; the next two from
twenty to thirty years, and the last two from ten to
fifteen years, according to size and nature of soil.
Here it should be remembered that a post should be
not less than six inches square at the surface of the
ground, and eight inches is better. From the place
where the bottom rails are inserted the posts should
be hewn flat down to three and one-half or four
inches thick, preserving the full width of the post.
The cut explains our meaning, and shows proper width of rails and spaces in inches.
.*-^A^-*>a. . «
gate resting on the common hook-and-eye hinge. At
c is another form, the gate being raised at the outer end
by means of the tie slot, one set of notches resting in
others reversed, thus firmly held except when lifted out-
At d is shown the old-fashioned and strong gate
swinging on a pin, and so loaded at one end as to balance.
It is not liable to sag, since the weight is perpendicular
on the post, and is therefore not difficult to swing. It
is usually latched by the top bar fitting into a gain in the
post.
At e and /are shown two sliding gates. The one at
e rests on rollers supporting slats which traverse longitu-
dinally. One end slides between two vertical posts, upon
which the guide rests to keep it in position when closed,
a bar working in a slot at the rear keeping it closed. At
/is shown a gate the rollers of which keeps it level
whether open or shut. Any farmer, if he is handy with
tools, can make any of these gates, the cuts explaining
themselves.
The next illustration shows two views of a swing gate, that in opening, rises
upon an incline on the lower hinge, so that the
front part, when open^ shows as in the lower
view. It is held open by the roller, after passing
up an incline, passing into a slight depression,
thus holding it open until again closed by hand.
When released the gate is surely closed by its
own gravity. The upper cut shows the gate
closed. The various forms here given may be
built according to any of the cuts, the slats being
either horizontal or vertical. For small gates we
show a form of upper hinge, that will shut the
gate by its own gravity. There are now many
forms of these kept in stock by hardware mer-
chants. A latch is also shown, not easily opened
by stock.
EISING GATES.
XX. Self-closing Slide Gates.
Ant slide gate may be made self-closing by having the rollers pass up a slight
incline, and may be held open by the rear roller passing into a slight depression. If
SLIDING GATES.
310
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
the gate is only partially opened, it will, of course, close itself by its own gravity.
The illustration of a self-closing slide gate is intended to show two things : the manner
SELF- SHUTTING UPPER HINGE.
GATE LATCH— HALF SIZE.
of building a square-picket fence, and a gate to correspond. The gate shown is for
a footway. For a carriage gate, there must be another post at the rear, or a pro-
jection from the fence to carry the rear roller, as shown by the brace and inclined
plane beyond the fence. This gate has the following advantages for village and
SELF-CLOSmG SLIDE GATE.
suburban residents: it will not sag, and, therefore, large posts are not necessary; it
clears all obstacles in its path, and closes surely, when relieved, by its own weight.
This feature will recommend it to all who have suffered from wandering stock, and a
self-fastener may be attached so no animal can open it.
A Simple Slide Gate. — A simple slide gate is made thus : Two posts are
united by a cross-piece below. One of the posts has a slit in its top to receive the
FENCES, HEDGES AND GATES.
bll
cross-bar. This bar passes at its other end into a mortise in the other post, and is
fixed by a pin upon which it moves. The other end is made long enough to be
shaped into a projecting handle. A perpendicular piece is attached to the cross-bar,
connected by a pivot having at the lower end a ring that runs on the cross-bar.
Rollers. — ^While upon the subject of slide gates, it should be remarked that,
except for the very lightest
gates, or all those that are re-
quired to stand considerable
pressure, rollers must be em-
ployed, upon jWhich the gate
runs. These are now sold of
various styles and weights,
from those moving the heav-
iest barn-doors with ease to
those adapted to light hand
gates. There are so many
patterns for gates and doors
of various kinds, that it will
not be difficult for the pur-
chaser to be suited. The
cut shows one of the more
simple forms, applicable to
gates and barn-doors, giving
front, rear and side views.
ROLLER HANGERS.
XXI. Southern Strap-Hinged Farm Gate.
The old-fashioned strap hinge assists largely in strengthening the swing gate, and
in preventing it from swagging. For heavy gates of this kind the posts must be
large and deeply set. In the South the heart-wood of the pitch-pine unites strength
with stiffness, and is generally used; the form of gate shown in. the illustration
HEAVY STRAr HINGE.
annexed, is a favorite plantation gate, because it is simple, light, strong and durable.
.In the North, oak or beech for the ends, with yellow pine bars and brace, and
hemlock pickets may be used. The cut explains itself. By the scale below, each
312
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
portion of the gate may be accurately determined. The manner of bracing — the
diagonal brace dove-tailing into the upper, helps to prevent sagging. The latch
guard and holder are of wood, and its simplicity of construction will commend itself
/\
nninnnnrinnniiinn
1
x\
ip
A SOUTHERN STRAP-HINGE FARM GATE.
to any man who can use a square, saw and hammer. The usual form of strap hinges
for gates, now used, is as shown in the cut on page 311.
XXn. Double-Braced Gate.
The cut here shows the manner of double-bracing a gate, dividing it into four
equal triangles, the form here exhibited being a hand gate with spring fastening. This
bracing gives the greatest strength and solidity. The dimensions for a gate nine ,or
ten feet long are as follows : Bottom board three
inches wide, lower space three inches, the rest of
the boards are six inches wide, except the top
board, which is seven inches. The spaces as
shown, are six inches, except that between the
two upper boards, which is four inches; but these
may be varied according to circumstances. The
front rail is 3x3 inches, and the rear rail 3x4
mortised nearly through, leaving only sufficient
wood in the front and rear rail to protect the
boards and hold them firm. The boards must fit
DOUBLE-BRACED GATE. *^^ mortiscs wcll, be driven home and held with
pins. The braces are four inches wide, one on
each side, firmly nailed with clinch nails. Any farmer can make this gate, and no
animal can break it.
FENCES, HEDGES AND GATES.
313
ADJUSTABLE SWING GATE.
XXIII. Adjustable Swing Gate.
When deep snow accumulates in winter, some plan must be used to allow passage
through gateways without shoveling great masses of snow, to be again accumulated,
perhaps, in five minutes. The accompanying illustration shows an easily constructed
and simple gate, and one easily raised to a con-
siderable height above the ground, in the case
of deep snows. The upright A is six or seven
feet long, and three and a half inches square,
round at the top and bottom. The dark points
indicate places for iron pins upon which the
hinges (clasps passing around the post and up-
right A') play. The hinges are shown at B.
The second slat is cut short, as shown, to allow
raising the gate. It may be necessary to
keep cattle and horses from passing through
the gate, and yet allow the passage of sheep and swine. This may be done by raising
the gate to the required height. The gate thus made swings freely both ways, and
may be fastened by a spring latch falling into a slot in the post. The eyes of the
hinges must be large enough to allow the upright to pass freely up and down. The
lower eye may connect with a shank passing through the post, A, and drawn tight by
a nut.
XXIV. How to Prevent Posts from Sagging.
Gate-vosts sag because they are often too small or made of soft wood, and are
not properly braced under ground. The post for a heavy gate should be of hard
.wood not less than eight inches square, set four feet deep, perfectly plumb and braced
under ground. For a heavy gate dig a trench five leet long for the heel-post of the
gate. Frame the bottom of the post into a two or three inch hardwood plank, so the
plank will project under the gate three feet from
the post. Frame also a strong brace for the bed-
piece to the post, tamp the earth solid about the
post and it will never sag. For very heavy
posts it is sonietimes framed and braced at the
front, and at the right and left side, when the
gate is to swing both ways. But for heavy
gates the slide arrangement is better.
XXV. Ornamental Gates.
Ornamental gates
.^^^.^
ornamental gates and fence.
are now made in
many designs, of a great variety of material,
and from patterns always ready to be shown by
manufacturers' agents, so that it is not necessary to elaborate them. The illustra-
tion shows one pattern of ornamental gate in a square picket fence, including cased
314
THE HOME AKD FARM MANUAL.
and capped posts. Any carpenter will undei'stand from this design the manner of
putting up any ornamental fence, the material being furnished, since it is simply
a question of casing and fitting each piece in its appropriate place.
XXVI. Flood and Water Gates.
AVhex farms are crossed by streams, water gates and fences are necessary. The
approaches may be of any kind, preferably such as may be removed easily from the
low grounds, in time of flood. In the current, the gates must be self-acting, so as to
give the least resistance to the water, and arranged to free themselves readily from
trash and debris brought down by the floods. Two forms of flood gate are shown in
the cuts. The first is apt to catch and hold all trash, though swinging freely; the
JWmrnm™™
1
INCORRECT FORM OF WATER GATE.
CORRECT FORM OF WATER GATE.
other will allow obstructions to be freely disengaged and pass away. The first is
simple, effective as a barrier to stock, easily removed when necessary, even to driving
the sharpened crotched posts, but incorrect in principle, simply because the slats are
put on the wrong way. They are constantly catching trash, and consequently, often
choked.
The second plan is correct, since it freely clears itself. A is the supporting pole, £
B, the flexible hinges, wires or chains supporting the frame, C, the cross-piece upon
which the slats are firmlj' bolted or naQed with clinch naUs. In this form, when
aquatic birds are to be prevented from passing, the slats may dip into the current ; if
not, they should be just above the ordinary stage of water.
XXVII. Stream Gate and Footway.
It is often desirable to combine a stream gate and footway, and at the same time
to arrange to raise the gate up in time of floods to allow free passage to the water,
especially where there is a fall, or a swift current liable to sudden rise and fall, and
perhaps carrying heavy trash. To do this the posts must be firmly set. The main
figure shows the gate attached to upright posts with lever for raising the gate ; it can
be used across a stream fifty feet wide. Iron rods a quarter of an inch thick pass
through the long and short pieces as shown; c, c, c, are sections of chain ending in
FENCES, HEDGES AND GATES.
315
solid shanks passing through the • revolving beam and fastened by nuts. When the
gate is to be raised, as shown in the end figure, the lever revolves the beam, the gate
STREAM GATE AND FOOTWAY.
slides back thereon, and when the whole comes to a horizontal position it is secured.
The end view shows the gate suspended on crotched posts, valuable when the banks
are subject to washing.
CHAPTEE W
FARM AND ORNAMENTAL HEDGES.
I. THE POETET OP HEDGES. n. ADVANTAGES AND DISADTAXTAGES OF HEDGES. HL HOW TO
PREPAEE THE HEDGE-EOW. ^IV. SETTING THE HEDGE. Y. FDflSHING THE PIA.NTmG— CDL-
TivATios — ^1. TEnnirsG the hedge. — vn. obnamental hedges. — vni. oenamextal
PLANTS FOR BCEDGES. ^IX. HOW TO PLAN^T THE HEDGE. X. CAEE OP DECIDUOUS HEDGES.
XI. TEEES FOE BAREIEKS AND PEOTECTIOST.
I. The Poetry of Hedges.
^X the equable and moist climate of England, the hawthorn, hoUy, privet and
^P other shrubs or smaU trees, are well adapted to ornamental hedges. They bear
^(^ close cutting and training, and are perfectly hardy ; the last two holding their
V foliage all winter. In our extremes of heat and cold, the rigorous winters of the
northern States are apt to prove, if not fatal, at least most injurious, while western
droughts and southern summer suns ai"e aknost as destructive. Around the haw-
thorn, from its ebon bud until its flowers scent the gale; from when its shed petals
whiten all around till winter sends, in berries, second bloom and decks its thorny
boughs with gleaming scarlet, the poets, from Father Chaucer to the Idyls of the
King, have hung their garlands. But, for us English of the West, the hawthorn tree
has lived only in the poet's verse ; and now, alas I in this prosaic age, English hedges
are becoming a thing of the past. Like the poet and the painter the}' produce nothing
but beauty ; they cumber land which can grow gold in corn ; they harbor weeds hard
to uproot ; they require time and labor to keep them in repair, for, left nntrimmed
and untended, they lose, not only their beauty, but their use; unsightlj' gaps appear,
and now the practical English farmer, under the close competition of America, finds
he must sacrifice poetry to pelf. Thus America, hedgeless by climate, in revenge
kills the holly and the hawthorn of English fields.
II. Advajitagea and Disadvantages of Hedges.
There is a practical use for the hedge in the protection it gives, especially in the
timberless districts, to the fields and stock, and to this we may add the pleasure a
well-kept hedge affords the eye. The disadvantages are, they are costly to keep in
order; they harbor weeds; they take up much valuable land; they prevent evapora-
tion from roads, keeping them wet and muddy, and, if not carefully trimmed, they
are unsightly. The question of fencing is one of the most important the farmer in
any district has to meet, and this becomes more and more serious as we advance be-
yond the Mississippi, upon the vast plains, that were once considered a desert, but are
[316]
FARM AND ORNAMENTAL HEDGES. 317
now found to be among the most productive lands of the West. But ingenuity has
solved the problem of enclosing regions far distant from timber, through improve^
ments in wire fencing.
The Osage orange has played an important, in many districts an indispensable,
part in the settlement of many prairie regions of the West. It may do so still in some
remote regions, but neither this plant nor the three-thorned locust ( Gleditschia) , the
only two hedge plants really adapted to the West, will be able to hold favor with those
who regard space and cleanliness in fencing. But, as in any other operation, every
farmer must judge for himself as to the economy of hedging. We believe that, simply
as protection to fields, and as shelter to stock from sweeping winds — lines, or, better,
clumps of trees along boundaries and principal fields, will prove more useful than
hedges.
III. How to Prepare the Hedge-Row.
Whether hedging ever again regains its hold upon public taste or no, it will
be used on many farms and, eventually, in an ornamental way on every farm. The
osage orange will only thrive on dry soil; wet land is certain death to it. Hence,
in preparing for a hedge of this plant, it is necessary to raise a slight ridge, even
upon high ground; over low places this must be of some height, and have a water-
way beneath, where the accumulation of water is to be carried away. In fact, all
hedge plants do better on a slight ridge in prairie land, that in spring is always
partially or fully saturated with water.
This ridge may be entirely made with the plow, harrow and leveler. Eight feet
in width is none too much. Plow first as deeply as possible by throwing out the
soil, leaving the dead furrow where the hedge is to stand. This should be done in
the autumn. In the spring, as soon as the soil is in good condition, plow the furrows
back, and again, deep. Three plowings should form the ridge, except in low places,
where earth may be added with the scraper. Harrow and level until the tilth is
perfectly fine and smooth, and leave the ridge to settle until wanted for planting.
IV. Setting the Hedge.
The hedge plants having been bought and sorted into best, second-best and culls,
the hedge-row is economically prepared as follows : Draw a straight line along the
center of the ridge. With a steady horse throw out the earth with a buU-tongiie
plow or other implement that will move the earth to either side. Pass back and
forth in this line, correcting it until it is perfectly straight and true. Upon a strong
garden line, not less than two hundred feet long, sew strips of red flannel, at such
distances as you wish your plants, say ten to twelve inches. One man, with a
bright, sharp spade, walking backwards along the hne, thrusts in the spade, obliquely
at every mark, presses the handle from him, and an assistant inserts the root. The
spade is withdrawn, the earth is stepped on to compress it firmly about the bottom of
the roots, leaving the plant fixed, and slanting somewhat, in the direction the work-
men are going, the spademan working backwards. Care must be taken that, when
318 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
the earth is finally filled in around the plants, they are covered about an inch above
the yellow portion of the root. To enable this to be done accurately, the line should
be supported at proper intervals, at "the desired height. The object in opening the
trench is, to save labor in planting, and by this means it may be accurately and
speedily accomplished.
v. Finishing the Planting— Cultivation.
When thirty or forty rods of hedge has been set the bull-tongue may be used
to carefully cover back the earth to the plants, after which they may be brought into
line and the earth firmly packed around them, the sides of the ridge being left rough
the better to kill the first weeds that start. So proceed until you have all youi'
plants set, first the best, then the second best, throwing away all inferior plants. If
you have raised the plants set all culls in nursery rooms for future use, and if you
buy them stipulate for No. 1 plants and accept nothing else. These may be divided
into firsts and seconds. The first season's cultivation may be wholly with the strad-
dle-row cultivator, and the plants must be kept earthed so that the yellow root does
not show. The second year's cultivation may be done with any implement that will
throw shallow furrows to or from the plants. No trimming is necessary the first two
years. The object is to get a strong root, especially in the North, where the plant
is liable to damage in winter, until it is three or four years old. After this time it is
nearly as hardy as the oak, on dry soils.
VI. Trimming the Hedge.
It has been found not a good plan to attempt to keep Osage orange in shape by
trimming and shearing, as practiced for ornamental hedges. The most that can be
done is to keep the upward growth within bounds by cutting back in the spring, and
perhaps again in midsummer, to a height of five feet. This may be done with the
COEN KMFE.
common corn or cane knife. "When the stems of the plants have reached a diam-
eter of about two inches it may be laid down. This is done by trimming up the sides
so a man can work. The stems are then sawed two-thirds through with a rather fine
saw, or cut and bent over in line by means of a very heavy pole, worked by a man
on each side of the hedge, so the stems will lie at an angle of about 25 degrees. If
they tend to rise they may be weighted down when necessary. This will reduce the
height of the hedge to three feet or less, but the new growth will soon present an
impenetrable barrier, and the following year the hedge will have attained its full
height. All that will be required thereafter will be to prevent the branches rising
above five feet by cutting the hedge to this height in the spring before the leaves start.
FARM AND ORNAMENTAL HEDGES.
319
and again at midsummer. This trimming may be done wit h a sharp corn k nife, or
with a similar tool made for
the purpose, as heretofore
shown. The strong limbs may
be hooked off with a bill-
hook, as shown in this cut,
or with a hedge-clipper to be
shown presently. Forkeep-
inIE AND FARM JIANUAL.
unless they are starving. Again, upon wet land, when the superior plants, as blue-
grass, orchard grass, red clover, etc., will exist only on the higher portions, and then
perhaps not in the highest perfection, or where they may be found growing generally
over the field but sparsely, the loss to the value of the pasture is immense. Unfor-
tunately, we have in this country but few examples, that are well authenticated, to
show, from careful experiments, a fair exhibit in such cases. Therefore, let a single
one, from high foreign authority, suffice:
The Versailles Experiment. — ^A certain piece of land connected with the
Agricultural Institute of Versailles, France, was drained. Before draining, it pro-
duced (except in so small proportion as to be practically worthless for any purpose)
only noxious plants, or those not eaten by cattle. We reproduce the statement, giv-
ing the Latin names as presented, with a translation showing our common names,
where known, which are not found in the original, and also the proportional number
of plants each, as accurately determined:
C05IM0N NAMES.
Common rush . . .
Plantain . . . .
Colohicum
Scouring rush . . .
Crowrtoot
Sedge . . . . .
St. John's wort family
Mint family . . . .
Thistle
Cuckoo flower . . .
Common agrimony
Valerian family . . .
Marsh marigold . . .
Sorrel-dock . . . .
Eld and white clover .
Orchid
Vernal grass . . .
SCIENTIFIC NAMES.
Jiiiicits communis
Plantago lanceolata . .
Calchicum autumnale ....
Equisetum arvense . . . ' . .
Ranunculus (two varieties) . .
Garex riparia
Hypericum tetrapt&'uni . . .
Ajuga genevensis . ...
Cirsium palustre ...
Cardamine pratensis ....
Agrimonia eupatoria . . .
Valeriana dioica
Caltha palustris
Bumex acetosa and crispus
Trifolium pratensis and repens
Orchis latifolia ... . .
Anthoxantkum odoratum . . .
PROPOR-
TIONAL
SmiBEK
100
83
67
50
50
50
50
33
33
33
33
17
17
17
1.2
0.8
0.4
The interesting point in this is the exceedingly small number of plants eaten by
stock — the clover and vernal grass — and also their proportional number, and most
important, the number of poisonous plants. Colchicum i^ one of these. Cattle will
not eat it unless mixed with hay. A very small portion will kill them. It is in this
respect that the value of drainage comes in to the stockman. A piece of land, for
instance, is worthless without draining. If only one-half, or even one-quarter, were
plants not eaten, would it not pay to drain, in order to have them superseded with
valuable plants ? Yes! for such is surely the effect of drainage. The question really
answers itself, and thus we leave the subject of drainage, for really in this respect,
as in any other relating to any economy, the good sense of the proprietor must be
exercised ; for after all, it is the pocket-book that must be interviewed, before any de-
cision can be made, when improvements of any kind are projected.
Part IV.
EUKAL AECHITECTUEE.
ILLFSTEATED PLANS AND DIEECTIONS FOR VILLAGE AND COUNTRY
HOUSES.
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER'S ART.
INCLUDING EVERY GRADE OF RESIDENCE, OUT-HOUSES, GARDEN
AND ORNAMENTAL STRUCTURES.
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM.
RURAL ARCHITECTURE.
CHAPTER I.
PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES.
I. BUILDING ACCORDING TO MEANS. II. IMPROVING THE OLD HOMESTEAD. III. AN ELEGANT
COUNTRY HOME. IV. KARM AND SUBURBAN COTTAGE. V. WHEN TO BUILD. ^VI. THE PEOVI-
DBNT FARMER'S MARRIAGE SETTLEMENTS. ^VU. HOW TO BUILD. VIII. WHAT TO BUILD. JX.
TASTE AND JUDGMENT IN THE DETAILS. X. WHERE TO BUILD. XI. A HILLSIDB COTTAGE.
Xn. ICE-HOUSE AND PRESERVATORY. XIII. THE WATER SUPPLY. XIV. HOUSE DRAINAGE.
XV. VENTILATION.
I. Building According' to Means.
^OWEVER small and rude the beginning of a country home may be, the house
and barn should be so planned that Additions may be advantageously made, or
else they must be so placed as not to interfere with the erection of better
J4, structures when increasing wealth shall allow. Our aim is to give directions
for the erection of simple buildings, of a cost not exceeding $1,000, that any intel-
ligent person can understand, and any carpenter build, without the aid of an architect.
For a house costing over the sum named the fees of an architect will be money well
spent, and in the end an economy, since he should be able to save the builder more
than he will ask for the working plan.
We will, however, present a few designs for more elaborate dwellings, and would
give the following as general directions : Farm-houses should always be of sohd and
substantial appearance, avoiding florid and useless ornament. Land being cheaper
than in towns, it is well to use it freely; do not build tall and narrow structures,
which are always unsightly, and give unnecessary stairs to climb. The farm-house
should be roomy, with high ceilings, solid and cheerful. When the means of the
owner will allow, let it be imposing.
II. Improving the Old Homestead,
In Part III., Chapter I., we have shown the cottage of the prairie pioneer. As.
years have passed he will, from the profits of the farm, have added other simple
structures — a wood-shed and store-room in the rear ; then a porch in front ; trees and
shrubs have been planted, and, as children have increased, a larger, plain building
has been added at the end of the original cottage, as shown in the illustration of a
" Farm-house Built from Increasing Profits." There is comfort here, though of the
homeliest kind. How now may this comfort be retained or enhanced, and more of
beauty added? In our climate of hot summer suns and dripping snows we may
nC,-2 THE HO--\IE AXD FAE^r ^lANUAL.
secure both bv so extendino; the roof that it shall overhanff the buildino; at the eaves
and irables by some twenty inches, with dormer windows and neat cornices on the
PLANS AND DIKECTIONVS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES.
3(;3
o-ables, as shown in the illustration of " The Old House Roniodeled." These archi-
tectural effects will be the more easily obtained if the gables are comparatively steep
to begin with; or the pitch of the roof may l)e iueri'ased in remodelling.
The Ground Plan.— The ground plan, besides kitchen, living-room, etc., may
contain a parlor, 12 x 14 feet, as in Fig. 2, instead of the two bed-rooms, 7x12,
shown in Fig- 1. Then the laundry and wash-room should be removed to the rear of
the kitchen, as shown in Fig. 2, and the room, (i x S feet, adjoining the parlor turned
P'AUM-HOUSE P.riUT Fl!0:\r INcr,E.VSI\(; PROFITS.
into a bed-room. Then the wood-shed will separate the parlor and bed-room from
the laundry, witli its odors of soap-suds, soiled linen, etc., on wash-days, besides
being convenient to all three of those rooms when fuel is Avanted. Fig. 2 shows only
one bed-room in the ground plan, but, however the lower Hoor may be divided, the
second story will contain ample s])aee for sleeping-rooms. In bf)th ])lans the pantry
occupies the same position, convenient to the kitchen and living-room, with the second-
story stairs on two sides of it.
3(34
THE HOME AXD FARM MANUAL.
III. An Elegant Country Home.
The house may be still further improved by setting it back from the road, but
we happen to know that it is in contemplation soon to build the new house near the
PARLOR.
11X14.
BED
ROOM
6X8
wooo
SKEG»
vash]
?aoMr
t'.ITCHEN.
le xi».
UVINO ROOM.
18X14
Fiu". 1.
Gr.O.rXD PLAX OF FAini-HOUSE.
Fig. 2.
GKOrXD PL-Vis OF FAi;:\r-HOUSE.
sheltering artificial grove ou the higher land with the beautiful meadow lands in front.
Ample barns now stand there hidden b}^ the house. Then the modest house will be
moved back far enough to give a pretty lawn in front, the improvements suggested
will be made and if there is a married son or daughter th( whole given to the young
THE OLD HOUSE BEMODELED.
couple. When the alterations are completed, and the new roof with its overhanging
eaves and cornices is finished, the upper story will contain three good sleeping-rooms.
The Ground Plan. — If tlie original farm-house is large enough it may be
PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES.
365
turned round and remodeled upon the ground plan shown in Fig. 3. The parlor,
13x16 feet, opens upon a veranda in front. The library or study has places for books
at B, B, at one of which a door might, if desirable, connect with the dining or living
room. The two closets in the dining-room are so placed as to give a kind of bay-
window effect, both pleasant and convenient. The kitchen, a bed-room for the family
and a child's bed-room, are all placed in connection. The door between the latter and
the back entry glazed to admit light to that part of the entry behind C. The second
floor has five good bed-rooms with a closet to each.
The Cost. — ^To thus alter the old house and give the high pitched roof, pierced
with windows, should not cost over two thousand dollars. Thus from the shelter of
the pioneer has grown the pretty residence
shown in the illustration of The Old Home-
stead Remodeled.
The rustic veranda and trellis over the
windows are intended not merely as a sup-
port for vines, but rather as giving an air of
rural refinement and poetry to the house,
with small expense. They are added from
time to time by the owner, aided by some
farm hand, expert with the saw and ham-
mer. They should be constructed of cedar
poles with the bark on, which may be had
in many places for a trifle, and which, if
neatly put together, will be more becoming
to such a cottage as this than more elaborate
carpentry work. As for the lawn, remember
that the grass should be unbroken. Trees
improve, shrubs ruin it. Flower beds should
be massed in colors and placed so that the
lawn may be a clear expanse of sod, not
patched with disturbing tints.
•^arbourV-*
Fig. 3.
GROUND PLAN.
V IV. Farm or Suburban Cottage.
A GOOD form of house for the successful farmer to build after getting pretty
well ahead, is shown in the illustration of " Farm or Suburban Cottage," with the
accompanying plans of the first and second floors. It is plain, substantial, well-
arranged, and would also make a good suburban home' for a city man. It is as com-
plete inside as it is tasteful without, and under ordinary circumstances its cost would
be about $2,500.
Fig. 4 shows the plan of the ground floor: A, front veranda, 10x16; B, hall,
7x20; C, parlor, 12x18, with bay-window, 4x9; D, dining-room, 15x20; E, library,
12x15, with square b^y-window, 4x8; F, kitchen, 11x12; G, pantry, 8x8; H, store-
^^6 HOME AND FARM MAIOJAI,.
room, 10x12; I, coal-room, 7i^x8; K, wash-room, 7}4x8: L, veranda, 8x16; M,
veranaa, 4x30; N, cistern, 9 feet diameter; O, well; c, c, closets; s, s, shelves; b,
bath; f, back* stairs; t, sink; p, pump
PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES.
367
Fis;. 5 gives a map of the upper floor of the cottage, with a hall, seven feet wide
at the stairway. C, C, C, C, are closets ; D, linen closet ; E, attic stairs ; F, servants'
Fig. 4.
FIEST FLOOR OF FARM COTTAGE.
bed-room, 11x20; G, garret; B, bed-room, 15x15; H, bed-room, 12x15; K, bed-
room, 12x18; E, R, R, R, roofs to verandas.
\ZJ1\S
Fig. 5.
UPPER FLOOR OF FARM COTTAGE.
The Grounds. — ^The grounds about the house are ample and carefully arranged.
The water supply comes from the hills above, allowing irrigation, with plenty of
head for fountains, and for baths, closets, etc., in. the house, and for watering and
cleaning in the stable and barns. Although the house stands far back from the
public road, it need not be approached hj a lane, but better through an open park,
set in blue-grass, and utilized as a pasture. The drive-way, sixteen feet wide, and
foot-paths, nine feet wide, may all be made by the farm hands under proper direction.
A portion, including a fountain and foot-path, is shown in the annexed cut. This
368
HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
park, like the fields, may be planted with deciduous and evergreen trees natural to
the cUmate. For information on which head, see chapter on Trees further on.
PARK OP THE FARM COTTAGE.
Bam and Carriage-House. — The barn and carriage-house shown in the plan
is a building 41 x 81 feet, with enclosed sheds of twenty feet, and built with over-
hanging eaves, and plain but heavy cornice to the gables. In the ground plan,
c c c c are four box stalls for
■■-^°-: — : : it the carriage and riding horses;
a td . — a . i d, four, and h, eight double
stalls for farm horses; h, the
carriage-house, with stalls for
vehicles; a, room for farm-
wagon and implements; b, an
open shed for grooming horses ;
I, a closet for farm harness;
j j, carriage-harness rooms ; e e,
feeding passages; n, feeding-
tube for box stalls. There are
also four closets for robes, sad-
dles, etc. The entrance to the carriage-room is at the end, and the other doors and
windows are marked by the open spaces. The second story is high enough to give
ample space for hay, feed, etc., with appropriate chutes for delivering below. The
'^''
FARM STABLE AND CARRLAGE-HOUSE.
PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES. 369
illustrations we have given in this connection will, if carefully studied, tell more than
a hundred pages of descriptive print. One thing always remember: Never build
until you are sure your circumstances will warrant it.
V. When to- Build.
We repeat, never undertake a building until you have more than enough money
to finish and to furnish it. It is far better to occupy the old house a year or two
longer, or to add a cheap shed or two, for the time being, thap to build a new house
or elaborate barn on borrowed money. It may be necessary to borrow for the build-
ing of the first house ; never for the second, unless storm or fire has destroyed your
home.
When to build, then, is when you have the money to do so, or can get it by the
sale of surplus crops or stock. If you have more land than you can work to advan-
tage, it may be wise policy to sell a part, to make your home comfortable.
VI. The Provident Parmer's Marriage Settlements.
The man who adds farm to farm, and lives in a hovel, is neither a good citizen,
a good father nor a good farmer. Let us speak unto you' a parable : A certain man
had a farm, which he thought he worked well. So thought his neighbors. To him
were born three children. When the first of these married, one-quarter of the farm
went as a marriage portion. By industry, the father raised as much on the three-
quarters as he previously had on the whole, and was well satisfied.
Another child married and received a like portion to the first. Improved imple-
ments of cultivation, he found, to his surprise, still enabled him to live as well as
ever.
The last child, a daughter, was to be married. "Ah, wife," said the father,
" the child must have the same portion as the others. How shall we, in our declining
age, live on the produce of the quarter of the farm?"
"We are but two," replied the wife, "and shall want but little. The new
implements, the enriching of the soil, and the draining, gave us as much from the half
as we once had from the whole. Increase the dressing, drain more thoroughly, plow
and subsoil still deeper, cultivate ye.t more faithfully, exchange the poorest of the
stock for pure breeds, and see what that will give."
This was done, and the third year thereafter surprised the farmer with more
money as the result of his labor than he had ever received from the whole of the
original acres of the farm. The application will serve him who intends to build a
new house, and has not money enough, but does possess salable surplus land. A
half-tilled farm and fine buildings do not go well together.
VII. How to Build.
Whatever the structure, careful calculation will show its cost in the amount of
excavation, stone, brick, cement, sand, lime, timber, scantling, joists, lumber, shin-
24
370 HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
gles, nails, sash, glass and labor. The farmer, perhaps, cannot calculate all these ;
the architect can, and any master carpenter should be able to do it, if the size of the
structure, and the money to be expended are stated. Whatever you build, build well;
that is, substantially and of good material. Sound knotty lumber is as good as clear,
where it is covered up. Unsound, shaky lumber should be used nowhere.
Special care must be taken that the bricks are firm and well burned. If the clay
is of poor quality, or not well burned, the bricks soon crumble and shell. They are
not only unsightly, but are costly in the end, and often dangerous. The cost of walls
too thin for their purpose is always money wasted. As in draining, the value of the
whole work is estimated by the quahty of the tile, and the poorest tile laid ; so in
brick or stone work, the value of the wall is in the quality of the material, the integ-
rity of the mortar, and the honesty of the work.
There is a right and a wrong way to lay stone walls. Hence, it is not economy
to employ a contractor simply because he is cheap. His work may be as bad as his
price is low. Any man, by intelligent observation and study of the plans and speci-
fications furnished, may be able to judge how the work is going on.
How to build, then, may be summed up thus : Build according to your means.
Whatever the structure, use good material ; it is cheapest in the end. Have the work
carefully planned, and then see the whole carried out properly.
VIII. What to Build.
Whatever you build make it comfortable. Remember that the house is woman's
kingdom. Therefore, consult her. You sleep and eat there; she lives her life almost
wholly within doors. None understand the arrangement of the rooms, pantries,
closets, dressers and drawers so well as she.
Every farm-house should have a dairy-room, distinct and by itself; a bath-room,
for cleanliness is health as well as comfort. When water cannot be brought direct
from the windmill tank, it is easily supplied by a small force-pump and pipe leading
to the cistern. Remember the woman who is obliged to cleanse the hard water of the
well ; and save her useless labor by providing the necessary cisterns for soft water.
If nothing better can be had, two or three oil hogsheads, first thoroughly cleansed,
may suffice, but never forget the permanent cistern when building the new house.
IX. Taste and Judgment in the Details.
IT is folly to build a house larger than you require, or to have the rooms unduly
large, unless your means will permit the hiring of necessary servants to keep all in
order. Many a woman on whom the unaided work has fallen has been made prema-
turely old through such slavery, and often is herself to blame. Do not hesitate to
spend money in making both the outside and the inside of your house pleasant to the
eye.
Do the doors touch on top or bottom after the new house has been built and
furnished? Do the walls crack? In either case you have been neglectful or have
PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES.
371
been deceived; the foundations are unsound. Does the wood-work shrink? You
have used green lumber instead of dry. Do the windows rattle and let in drafts of
air? It is from the same cause. Does the water enter to discolor walls and ceilins?
The siding or the roofing is to blame.
If you have a carefully written contract, and the builder is responsible, you can,
perhaps, recover after a tedious lawsuit. It is better not only to have a carefully
written contract, but also to watch how the details are carried out. If you have
deliberately cheated yourself in refusing to pay for honest material you are not to be
pitied. The pity should all be given to the wife and children of the family, who
really are the chief sufferers.
HILLSIDE COTTAGE.
X. "Where to Build.
So build as most economically to serve the various uses of the farm, and at the
same time obtain, if possible, a view of the surrounding country. The farmer has
the whole farm from which to select a building site. If he dumps his house and
other buildings down next the road, only because it is a road, he shows bad judgment.
If he builds upon a pinnacle simply because it is high, or in a hollow alone, because
the wind cannot reach him there, he makes a great mistake. One should take into
account, in carefully estimating the value of a building site, central situation on the
farm, freedom from exposure to the full effects of the wind, air and elevation in
relation to healthfulness, and the advantages to be obtained from perfect drainage;
the adaptability of the site to the proposed farm buildings, and the economy of the
water supply., All these must be duly weighed, and they are often difficult of solu-
tion. If the doubt is of drainage or of roads, the surveyor should be able to advise;
if in relation to the house, the architect should be consulted. Take counsel, also, of a
372
THE HOME ASTD FAKM MANUAL.
landscape gardener — we mean a real landscape gardener, one who can look far beyond
the simple details of planting and decoration, by taking the natural beauties into
account, and the proper means for heightening them.
XI. A Hillside Cottage.
Fig. 6.
GROUND PLAN.
A FARMER of moderate means who had originally built a very modest house and
a comfortable barn in a valley with higher lands on each side wished to build a house
where the family could carry on the dairy und.er the same roof. The new house was
built on a hillside with a view of the past-
ures from the back porch. The barn lay to
the west of this with the cultivated fields in
front. The building was modest enough ; a
substantial bracketed cottage fronting the
south, as shown in the illustration. And
here let us say that a modification of this
plan would well suit the hill country of the
South. The roof might contain dormer
windows, and be raised at least two feet to
give height and ventilation, and a gallery
extend the length of the south front in place
of the porch. In this plan the windows
opening on the veranda at the north, and
on the small balcony at the end, are long
and hung on hinges. The basement contains dairy, dining-
room and kitchen, and beyond, but connected with the
kitchen, is a vegetable cellar and fuel-room. The plans of
the ground floor and attic are given in Figs. 6 and 7. The
attic rooms are ten feet in the highest part, but only two
feet nine inches at the side.
The outside of the building is built of upright boarding
and battens; a finish that we like only for barns, but it was
built at a time when there was a craze for this style.
The Barn. — The bam is 50 x 36 feet, with a well-lighted
basement, containing stalls for cattle. The plan of the main
floor explains itself. The stalls are provided with stancheons
and manure drops, and the animals fed through the chutes.
A plan of the basement of a barn, Chapter IV., Sec. III., will
explain the arrangement of stancheons and drops for manure. The horse barn is a
building by itself, comprising stables, 18 x 34 feet, shown at D, in diagram, and wagon
and carriage-yard. A, 20 x 30 feet ; 5, 5 x 10 feet, is the harness-room ; c, stairs to
loft; -P, a projection around two sides of stable, so horses may be fed from the
Fig. 7.
PLAN OF ATTIO.
PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES.
373
passage without going into the stalls.
The heads of the horses are thus kept from
the sides of the building, ensuring free-
dom from drafts. In the projection
from the end of the stable, are the feed-
bins, b b, and a ti'ough, F, for mixing
feed.
h
I
I
36X18 I
7X4-
2
7X4
7X3^
7X7
THRESHINS
7A"?-'
fx/a
8X7
FLOOn
SXB
5X5
36X,*
STORE ROOM
FOR REAPER
FANNING MILLSc
leXLS
GROUND TLOOE OF HORSE BARN.
SIAIN FLOOR OF FARM BARN.
XII. Ice -House and Preservatory.
One form of ice-house, 12 x 12 feet, with preservatory beneath, is shown in the
accompanying illustration. In the preserva-
tory were kept the cans of milk for raising
the cream, the churned and packed butter,
and other articles like canned fruits, etc. A
leg of mutton is shown hanging in the pre-
servatory. There is no special objection, if
the room is very cold, to keeping fresh meat
where milk is. It is better, however, that it
be kept in a separate ice-box. The illustration
nearly explains itself. The walls are of stone.
Then comes an air-space, eight inches wide.
Then boarding, with sawdust between, as
shown. The floor, of galvanized iron, slopes
to the center, and the drainage is carried away •
by a pipe passing through the dairy-room,
where it helps to cool the tanks for milk.
The ventilation, as well as the manner of con-
ducting cold air to the preservatory, is shown
by the arrows.
XIII. The Water Supply.
If a stream runs near the site of your
house, have the necessary levels taken to find ice-house and preservatory.
374
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL
POOR RESERVOIR FOfe A FOUNTAIN.
if water can be, by gravity, conducted in pipes to the homestead. If so, the advantage
will be great. Besides the comfort, there will be water for the stock, and beauty be
obtained in the future, by a pond and fountain. If this natural supply cannot be
obtained, you must depend upon a wind-mill and wells for stock water, which same
mill may be so arranged as to force soft water to the house from an ample cistern at
the barn. This cistern should be in two parts, with a filter between. It is only a
question of the first cost, and the necessary pipes and faucets. The reservoir-cistern
may be in the barn or other building that will furnish the necessary head. Water
will rise, in a pipe, to the same height as
the " head," as the elevation of the source
of supply is called, but many persons sup-
pose that it may be thrown, in an uncon-
fined stream, to the same height. This i&
a great mistake, for the jet of a fountain
never springs as high into the air as the
reservoir which supplies it with water.
The cut shows a form of reservoir and
fountain that looks better on paper than
it does in practice. The hogshead B, may
be filled -by a wind-mill, and the water
running through to the pipe, C, will throw a jet into the air at the basin, but
it will be a puny one. A wind-mill will furnish stock water, and water for the
house, but a hogshead reservoir for supplying a fountain is a failure.
^ XIV. House Drainage.
Drainage is most important. It must be perfect. The pipes and mains con-
ducting the house drainage should not only be of ample size to prevent choking, but
have-the best possible traps to prevent foul gases from rising back into the building.
These pipes must be so arranged that they can b3 "flushed out" with water when
necessary. The cellar drains, when these are necessary, and the out-going main may
be of tile, providing they do not connect with the other house drainage; if they do, a
strong trap must be used where the drain-water of the cellar empties into the house
main. All other drains should be water-tight at the joints, and as a further precaution,
a soil-pipe, perfectly tight, should lead from the bottom to at least four feet above
the highest portion of the roof. This pipe connects at or near the bottom with the
pipe service of the house. It is indispensable to carry off the effluvia which always
collects in confined places.
XV. Ventilation.
No less important is ventilation. It is true, in the country, where the air is
pure, ventilation is not so serious a matter as in the city. Windows may be raised
and doors left open in summer ; but this is at no time the best way for the general
ventilation of buildings, and in winter is not to be thought of. In the winter proper
PLANS AND DIRECTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSES. 375
ventilation is difficult. An architect who does not fully understand this question and
the best means to be employed, has not wholly learned his business. Do not hamper
him here with objections as to cost. However elaborate and expensive the structure,
money stinted in Ventilation and drainage always proves a costly error. A leak
however slight, in the soil-pipe will, perhaps, let out death to the family. If the
earth within, or near, the foundations of the house becomes saturated with the drain-
age, the germs of low malarial fevers, and all that class of diseases, are scattered
through the house. Do not believe, because your nostrils are not offended, that there
is no danger. The most deadly miasma often gives no indication to the sense of
smell. So with ventilation. There should be some system by which the air vitiated
by breathing, and the other emanations of the body, may be freely carried off.
Do -not employ an ignorant man who professes to be an architect, because he works
cheaper than a master of his profession.
CHAPTEE n.
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER'S ART.
1. BUILDING MATERIAL. H. HOW TO MAKE UNBUESED BEICK. III. SPECIFICATIONS OF FAKM AND
OTHEE BUILDINGS. IV. OUTLINE OF SPECIFICATIONS FOR HOUSE OP WOOD WITH STONE OR
BRICK FOUNDATIONS. V. MASONRY AND MASON'S WORK. VI. CARPENTRY AND CARPENTER'S
WORK. VU. PAINTER'S WORK. VHI. TINNER'S .VND PLUMBER'S WORK. — IX. CONTRACT FOE
PERFOR MAN CE OF OBLIGATIONS. X. HOW TO CONSULT AN ARCHITECT XI. GLOSSARY OF
SCIENTIFIC TERMS USED IN ARCHITECTURE.
I. Building Material.
]NLA.X who is going to build, must consult, not only cost of materials and labor,
but be governed by many circumstances. Good burned brick are the most
lasting of aU things used, and where abundant, are often the cheapest in the
end. In some regions of the far "West, "adobes," or unburned brick, are used,
and if the roof projects sufficiently to prevent rain reaching the walls, and if bBtween
the ground and the adobe walls, stones, hard-burned bricks, or even planks saturated
with bitumen, tar or rosin are laid, these sun-dried bricks last well. As in many
places they are the only building material easily obtainable, we give directions for
making them. Adobes, if protected as we have indicated, answer for any required
structures, in regions where fuel for burning brick is difficult to obtain, and they are
especially useful for temporary buildings, to be used until better material can be had.
The adobe may be made from clay containing limestone or other small gravel, which
would render it unfit for burning, but the more tenacious the clay, the better will be
the wall. In making any brick, it is better that the clay, when dug from the bed, be
well " weathered," to break down and disintegrate it before using, but less so for the
adobe brick than that clay which is to be burned.
11. How to Make Unbumed Brick.
The clay is put into a pit and brought to the proper consistency for treading.
Two bundles of straw, cut into six-inch lengths, are added for each one hundred brick.
The mass is then thoroughly trodden by cattle, after which it is formed in molds, of
plank, whose bottoms are not air-tight. These molds are twelve inches long, six wide
and four deep, inside measure. They must be well sanded as emptied before being
again filled, which filling is prepared by hand, and the surplus clay struck off by an
iron "straight-edge." When taken from the molds the adobes are set upon edge on
the drying gi'ound, and the second day turned over. In three days they should be
dry enough to pile under cover, and are then left for two weeks or more to "cure."
[376]
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER'S ART. 377
Building the Wall. — The walls of the building are laid in alternate courses of
"headers" and "stretchers." "Headers" being brick laid endwise to the weather.
"Stretchers" are brick laid with the side to the weather, that is, to the outside of the
wall. The bricks, being one foot long, djetermine the thickness of the wall, and the
first course should run through. In carrying up the wall, joints must be broken,
not only as regards layers of "stretchers," but with the "headers" also.
III. Specifications of Farm and Other Buildings.
It will not be necessary to enter into any detailed statement as to the construc-
tion of buildings, farther than what has been made heretofore. The illustrations and
definitions, except so far as may be necessary to show how changes might be made
for the better, will be all that will be necessary. In the illustrations we begin with
the simpler and proceed to the more elaborate, for the reason that the majority want
simple structures, and here will be the proper place to give the general specifications :
First, for an ordinary modern building ; and second, for those for a first-class build-
ing of brick with stone foundation. Many items specified are not needed on the
farm, but are necessary in suburban and other houses. In these we have followed,
in a general way, the comprehensive and elaborate directions as given in a valuable,
complete and costly practical architectural work, known as " Palliser's American
Country Homes."
IV. Outline of Speoifloations for House of Wood, with Stone or Brick
Foundations.
Dimensions. — Drawings and details must be accurately followed according to
the scale given, and preference must always be given to the scale rather than to the
dimensions. The building must be in exact proportion and in size as shown on the
ai'chitect's plans, and as figured in the drawings — as, for instance, height of cellar,
first floor, kitchen, second floor over main part of house, height of second floor over
kitchen, third floor, etc., always in the clear, and built in exact accordance with the
plans and specifications.
Note. — In the specifications, in some instances, we shall give size, quality and
dimensions as being appropriate for buildings of two stories. Where blanks are left
they are to be filled with figures and names as required. The whole being intended
for what is known as a balloon-frame, to be still further treated of hereafter.
V. Masonry and Mason's Work.
Excavating. — Do all necessary excavating required for cellar, area and founda-
tions until firm and solid ground is reached, and always be entirely certain to go deep
enough to be beyond the reach of frost.
Stone Work. — Build the foundation walls sixteen inches thick, of good flat
stone, of firm bed, well bonded through the wall, laid up in clean, sharp sand, lime
and cement. Mortar made in the proportion of one part of cement to two of lime.
Lay by, and full to, a line on the inner face, the joints of which must be flushed and
378 THE HOllE AND FARM JIAXUAL.
pointed at completion. Put like foundation under all jjiers, chimneys and exterior
steps.
Drains. — First quality cement drain-pipe, as per plan, are to be connected, if in
a town, with the sewer; or in the country, a drain built for the purpose, and these
pipes must be properly graded and trapped and the joints cemented tight.
Underpimmig. — From the top of the stone wall, at grade level, extend up two
feet in height with eight-inch wall of best hard-burned brick, and clean, sharp sand
and lime mortar ; face walls with selected brick of even color, laid in red mortar,
close joints, jointed, properly cleaned down at completion, and finished with black
joints, window-sills of (state the kind of stone).
Piers. — Build piers in cellar, as shown in the plan, of best hard-burned brick,
laid in clean, sharp sand and lime mortar, and cap with flat stone the size of piers.
Chinmeys. — Build chimneys as shown, plastered on inside and out, furnished
with proper stove collars, and with ventilating covers where required ; turn arch to
fireplace, and turn trimmer arch under hearth; hearth to be (state the material of
hearth) bedded in cement. Top out the chimneys above the roof, as shown, with
selected brick in like manner to underpinning.
Lathing. — ^All stud partitions, ceilings and work that is furred off, on first and
second floors, to be lathed with (state kind of lathing), and joints to be broken (state
how the joints are to be broken, as for instance, every tenth lath).
Plastering. — All walls, partitions and ceilings, throughout first and second floors,
to be plastered, one coat of brown, well-haired mortar, and finish. State whether
white, hard, or other finish is required. All walls to be finished straight and plumb.
All angles to be maintained sharp and regular in form, and the plastering in all cases
to extend to the floor, ceiled surface, or base board, as the case may be.
VI. Carpentry and Carpenter Work.
Timber. — ^All timber must be put together in the most substantial and work-
manlike manner known to the trade. State of what kind of wood all timber is to be,
when not otherwise specified. This is important, since in every locality there is much
inferior material.
Framing. — State the kind of framing. If a hollow frame, as follows: The
frame to be what is known as a hollow frame, well nailed together; second floor girts
to be notched into and well spiked to studs. Do all necessary framing around stair-
ways and chimneys, properly mortised and tenoned together.
Frame Timber. — The size must be carefully stated, and also the kind of mate-
rial. The following may represent that for an ordinary sized two-story house : Girders,
4x6 inches; sills, 3x7 inches; posts, 4x5 inches; girts, l>^x4 inches; plates, 2x4
inches, doubled and well spiked into ends of studding. Frst-floor timbers, 2x8
inches; second-floor timbers, 2x6 inches, all to be 16 inches apart, from center to
center of timbers; header and trimmer beams, 3 inches thick; x-oof -rafters 2x5
inches, by 24 inches to centers, apart; door and window studs, 3x4 inches; inter-
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER'S ART. 379
mediate studding, 2x4 inches, and 16 inches each to centers; studdings in partitions,
2x3 inches, and 16 inches each from centers to centers. Veranda sills and cross sills,
3x6 inches; floor timbers, 2x6, and 20 inches from centers; plates, 4x5 inches.
Bridging. — Bridge floor timbers with 1x2 inch cross-bridging properly cut in
between timbers, and nailed at each end with two ten-penny nails.
Purring. — Fur overhead on raftei-s for rooms on second floor, and also any
other furring required.
Sheathing. — Cover all sides of the frame with tongued and grooved boards,
not to exceed six inches in width, and nail through each edge to every stud with ten-
penny nails.
Lvunber. — All lumber must be of white pine (unless otherwise specified), free
from knots, shakes and other imperfections impairing its strength and durability.
Water table seven-eighths inch thick, furred off one inch and capped with a leveled
and rabbeted cap for clapboards to lap. The corner boards, casings and bands to
be one and one-quarter by six inches, bands to be rabbeted top and bottom for
clapboards and beveled on top.
Clapboarding. — All sides to be covered with clear pine clapboards four and
one-half inches wide, nailed with eight-penny box nails, and to have not less than
one and one-quarter inch lap, and underlaid with water-proof sheathing felt, which
also place under all casings, water table, etc., so as to lap and make a tight job.
Cornices. — These are to be formed on three by five inch rafter feet, spiked on
to rafter at plate; gutter formed on same and lined with tin, so as to shed water to
points as are indicated in plan. Plancier to be formed by laying narrow pine
matched boards, face down on rafter feet, large boards two inches thick and as shown,
and all as in the detail drawing.
Window-Frames. — These are to be made as shown in the drawings. Cellar-
frames of two-inch plank rabbeted for sash ; sash hinged (or not as the case may be) and
to have suitable fastenings to hold open or shut ; all other sashes to be double hung with
best sash-cords and cast-iron weights, and to be glazed with best sheet glass (or other
as the case may be) ; also specifying the number of sash and size of lights. Also
state thickness of sash. All sash to be made of best clear, thoroughly seasoned pine.
Window sills to be two inches thick. (For ordinary windows one and three-eighths
inch is the usual thickness. )
Blinds. — State whether blinds are to be outside or inside, and of how many
folds. Outside blinds should never be used where they can be avoided. All wood
work should be primed with best white lead and linseed oil, as soon as exposed to the
weather.
Door-Prames. — Outside door-frames of plank, rabbeted, and furnished with
2 -inch oak, or other hard-wood sills.
Porches. — These vary much in character. They should be constructed in ac-
cordance with the detail drawings, including columns, rails, newels, panels, etc.
steps should be 1^^ inch thick, with ^ inch risers, to have cove under nosings ; floors
380 THE HOME AJSTD FARM MANUAL.
laid with 1^x4 inch flooring, bhnd-nailed to beams ; the joints served with white lead ;
ceiling to be ceiled with narrow-beaded battens of even width and molded in angles.
Roofs. — Cover all roofs with best sawed pine shingles, laid preferably on roof-
ing boards, solidly nailed to the rafters. If laid on strips, these may be 1x2 inches,
nailed to the rafters with ten-penny nails. The shingles to be laid to break joints,
nailed with white metal nails, two to each shingle, the nails to be well covered by the
succeeding lap, to make a perfectly weather-tight roof. It pays to paint shingles with
mineral paint before laying.
Floors. — Kitchen floors are better laid with three or four inch ^vide ash strips
seven-eighths inch thick. Sound yeUow and Georgia pine are next best. The princi-
pal floor of the house should be laid with best pine flooring, 1x6 inches. The second
floors of seven-eighth inch pine, 6 inches wide. All floors to have joints broken, to
be well driven home, and securely blind-nailed. Kitchen and other floors requiring
mopping and scrubbing, are better if the flooring is payed with white lead, to make it
water-tight.
Partitions. — All partitions should foot on girders, and have 3x3 inch plates to
carry second floor; all angles formed solid, and all partitions bridged at least once
in their height. The grounds to screed plaster to should be seven-eighths inch thick,
and left on.
Wainscoting. — ^W^ainscot walls for kitchen, when used, may be three feet high,
if with beaded battens ; if not, of ^-inch flooring, well driven home, and blind-
nailed. They should be furnished with beveled and molded cap.
Casings. — These must be described in detail; the following will serve as an
example : Casings in front hall and living-rooms — to be cut and stop-chamfered —
li^x6 inches; all doors and windows elsewhere to be cased before plastering with
^-inch casings, and finished with a ^xl^ inch band mold. Put down 7-inch beveled
base in front hall and bed-rooms after plastering ; door jambs to be ^ inch thick,
rabbeted for doors and headed on edges ; windows to be finished with neat stool and
apron finish.
Doors. — State whether the doors, and which of them, are to be panel, sliding
and sash doors. Sash doors are used for entre-sal, and sometimes for outside doors.
Six-panel, ogee, solid molded doors are usual for inside single doors. Saddles of
doors should be, preferably, of hard pine.
Stairs. — Cellar stairs should be of plank, without risers ; second-floor stairs, Ij^-
inch tread, ^-inch risers, properly put together and supported.
Sinks. — Ceil up under- sink with narrow beaded work to match wainscoting;
hang doors for closets underneath; place appropriate hooks; ceil up splash board, 16
inches high, and place drip board.
Pantries and Closets. — Pantries should have a ci)unter shelf and at least four
shelves above, with appropriate pot hooks beneath counter shelf. China closets with
counter shelf, drawers underneath, and appropriate shelves above. Wardrobe closets,
to be fitted up with shelves, double wardrobe hooks, on molded strips.
BUILDING MATERIAL AND tHE BUILDER'S ART. 381
Door Furniture, etc. — The door furniture must correspond to the specifica-
tions and drawings. Locks: mortise locks, brass fronts and keys, with stop-locks
and shove-bolts for all outside doors. The stops should be of hard wood "with rubber
tips; hinges, of loose joint, but of size and strength appropriate to the doors.
Mantels. — These may be of marble, slate, pottery, or of hard wood, according
to the nature of the building.
Cellar. — The partitions may be of brick or of wood (brick is best), divided
into rooms, with suitable doors, and furnished with shelves, bins and other fixtures
according to the nece^ssities of the case.
VII. Painter's Work.
All wood-work outside and inside, should receive two coats of the best white
lead and raw linseed Oil. Accept nothing adulterated. Paint that remains sticky,
and is affected by atmospheric changes, is a nuisance. Clapboards should be painted
in some light neutral colors, with darker trimmings. Grain the wood-work in kitchen
in oak or maple, inside blinds, doors, etc., preferably in imitation of some light-
colored handsome wood ; bed-rooms are best painted in one color ; chamfers and cut
work should be picked out in appropriate colors. Paint the roof a dark-slate color;
tin work, Indian red or other rather dark color. The whole to be in accordance with
the design.
VIII. Tinner's and Plumber's "Work.
Tinning. — All tinner's work should be of the best material, soldered in rosin;
gutters lined with tin, tin leaders to convey water from gutters to grade level, to
be firmly secured to the building, and to be graded in size to correspond to the
amount of water to be carried.
Sinks, — These should be of cast iron, to be supplied from five-eighths inch
tin-lined lead pipe, with five-e'ighths inch brass cocks; waste-pipes two inch, of cast
or wrought iron, gas-tight, properly caulked at joints if of cast iron; if of wrought
iron, the pipes must be screwed tight, the joints first payed with red lead, trapped
and closely connected with the drain ; the waste-pipe to extend through the building
and above the roof for. vent. All water-closet (if any) and other drain fixtures to
be according to the best scientific skill.
In conclusion, we repeat, that all work of whatever kind must be in accordance
with the specifications and design, in all the departments. Hence the importance of
a specific contract and an honest architect.
IX. Contraot for Performance of Obligations.
«
The party of the first part (the contractor) agrees for the consideration named,
and according to the plans^ and specifications, to build complete, in a thoroughly
finished manner (furnishing all good and sufficient material if so to be stipulated),
within a given time, and in accordance with the direction of the architect or master
builder, stipulations being plainly stated as to the number of payments, and time,
382 THE HOME AXD FARM MANUAL.
including tlie final payment, reserving all payments un.til the lapse of time necessary
to provide against mechanics' liens, or liens for material furnished, certificates being
furnished from the proper law officers that such do not exist. The work previously
quoted, and from which we have generalized the matter relating to plans and specifi-
cations for building, gives a form of contract which leaves no loop-holes. This
contract reads as follows, and may be altered to suit any given circumstances :
Articles of Agreement made and entered into this- day of in the year One Thousand
Eight Hundred and by and between of the , of , County of and State of
, as the part of the first part, and of the of County of -, and State of
, as the part of the second part, witnesseth :
First. — The said part of the first part, do hereby, for heirs, executors, administrators,
or assigns, covenant, promise and agree to and with the said part of the second part, heirs,
executors, administrators or assigns, that , the said part of the first part, heirs, executors,
administrators or assigns, shall and will for the consideration hereinafter mentioned, on or before the
day of , in the year One Thousand, Eight Himdred and , well and sufiiciently erect,
finish and deliver, in a true, perfect and thoroughly workmanlike manner, the for the part of
the second part, on ground situated , in the of , County of , and State of ,
agreeably to the plans, di-awings and specifications prepared for the said works by- , architect, to
the satisfaction and imder the direction and personal supervision of , architect, and will find and
provide such good, proper and sufficient materials, of all kinds whatsoever as shall be proper and
suflicient for the completing and finishing all the and other works of the said building mentioned
in the specifications, and signed by the said parties, within the time aforesaid, for the sum of
Dollars.
' Second. — The said part of the second part do hereby for heirs, executors, administrators
or assigns, covenant, promise and agree to and with the said part of the first part heirs, execu-
tors, administrators or assigns, that , the said part of the second part heu-s, executors,
administrators or assigns, will and shall, in consideration of the covenants and agreements being strictly
executed, kept and performed by the said part of the fij-st part, as specified, well and truly pay
or cause to be paid, unto the part of the first part, or unto heirs, executors, administrators or
assigns, the sum of Dollars, lawful money of the United States of America, in manner following:
First payment of $ Second payment of $ . Third payment of $ . Fourth pay-
ment of § . Fifth payment of 3 .
When the buUding is all complete, and after the expiration of— days, being the number of days
allowed by law to lien a building for work done and materials furnished, and when all the drawings and
specifications have been returned to , architect.
Provided^ That in each case of the said payments, a certificate shall be obtained from anti signed
by architect, to the effect that the work is done in strict accordance with drawings and specifica-
tions, and that he considers the payment properly due ; said certificate, however, in no way lessening
the total and final responsibility of the part of the first part; and, Provided further that in each case
a certificate shall be obtained by the part of the fii-st part, from the clerk of the ofiice where liens
are recorded, and signed and sealed by said clerk, that he has carefully examined the records and finds
no liens or claims recorded against said works or on account of the said part of the first part. And
IT rS HEREBY FURTHER AGREED BY AXD BETWEEN THE SAID PARTIES:
Third. — That the specifications and the drawings are intended to co-operate, so that any works
exhibited in the drawings and not mentioned in the specifications, or vice versa, are to be executed the
same as if they were mentioned in the specifications and set forth in the drawings, to the true intent
and meaning of the said drawings and specification, without extra charge.
Fourth. — The contractor, at his own proper costs and charges, is to provide all manner of labor,
materi.als, apparatus, scaffolding, utensils and cartage of everj- description needful for the due perform-
ance of the several works; and render all due and suflicient facilities to the architect for the inspection
of the work and materials.
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER'S ART. 383
Fi/ift— Should the owner, at any time din-ing the progress of the said works, require any alterations
of, deviations from, additions to, or omissions from the said contract, he shall have the right and pow er
to make such change or changes, and the same shall in no way injuriously affect or make \oid the
contract; hut the difference shall be added to or deducted from the amount of the contract, as the case
may he, by a fair and reasonable valuation.
Sixth. — Should the contractor, at any time during the progress of the said works, refuse or neglect
to supply a sufficiency of material or of workmen, or cause any unreasonable neglect or suspension of
work, or fail or refuse to comply with any of the articles of agreement, the owner or his agent shall have
the right and power to enter upon and take possession of the premises and provide materials and work-
men sufficient to_ finish the said works, after giving forty-eight hours notice in writing, directed and
delivered personally to the part of the first part, and the expense of the notice and the finishing of
the various works wilB be deducted from the amount of contract.
Seventh. — Should any dispute arise respecting the true construction or meaning of the drawings or
specification, the same shall be decided by , architect, and his decision shall be final and conclusive ;
but should any dispute arise respecting the true value of any extra work, or of works omittea by the con-
ti'actor, the same shall be valued by two competent persons — one employed by the owner and the otlier
by the contractor — and these two shall have the power to name an umpire, whose decision shall be bind-
ing on all parties.
Eighth. — No work shall be considered as extra, unless a separate estimate in writing for the same
shall have been submitted by the contractor to the architect and the owner, and their signatures obtained
thereto.
Ninth. — The owner will not, in any manner, be answerable or accountable for any loss or damage
that shall or may happen to the said works, or any part or pai-ts thereof, respectively, or for any of the
materials or other things used and employed in finishing and completing the said works.
Tenth. — The contractor will insure the building before each payment, for the amount of the payment
to be made; and the policy will not expire until after the building is completed and accepted by the
architect and owner. The contractor will also assign the policy to the owner before the payment will be
made.
Eleventh. — Each artisan and laborer will receipt the architect's certificate, that he has been paid in
full, and the contractor will make oath.according to the ai-chitect's certificate, that all bills have been
paid, and that there are no unpaid accounts against the works.
Twelfth — Should the contractor fail to finish the work at or before the time agreed upon, shall
pay to the part of the second part, the sum of Dollars per diem, for each and every day
thereafter the said works shall remain unfinished, as and for liquidated damages.
In Witness Whereof, the said parties to these presents have hereunto set their hands and seals,
the day and year above written.
Witnesses, | ;]^^ Part of the First Part | [sIal']
Witnesses, I Part of the Second Part | ^^ flUt" j
X. How to Consult an Architect.
It is an architect's business to give tlie greatest amount of room, witii the best
architectural effect, for the money spent. In all superior buildings the architect's
charges are well earned. The architect may charge — for full vForking plans, all
details of drawings for exterior and interior work and fittings, specifications and
forms of contract — two and a half per cent on the cost of erecting and completing
the building. That is, on a building to cost $2,000 the charge would be, say, fifty
dollars. If they prepare complete bills of quantities of materials, 5^ of one per cent
additional may be charged. If the architect is required to superintend and supervise
the building personally and the contractors' bills, the charge will be in accordance
384 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
to the distance traveled or various local necessities. If you decide to consult an
architect, state:
The outside amount of money to be expended on the building complete.
The nature of the ground, size and shape of lot, which way the building is to
front. A rough draft is essential if it can be made. What material will be used in
the construction, and the price of material and labor.
What number and size of rooms on each floor, also any special disposition to be
made of certain rooms in relation to use, scenery, views, or otherwise) and what the
building is to be used for. State precisely location and characl^r of the grounds
and surroundings, and anything necessary to be considered (that may occur) relating
to design, location and arrangement of rooms.
What are the means of drainage, the improvements required, in heating, Avater
(hot and cold), bath, water closets, and artificial lighting.
About the outside finish, as porches, verandas, bay-windows, towers, etc. ; also
provisions for water service, cisterns, etc.
Fences and out -buildings required; and also name any work you wish to do, or
material you wish to furnish.
Give post-office, county and State, with name. The whole to be legibly written.
Thus the architect can work understandingly, and it may save the cost of a
personal visit. But if possible, see the architect personally, and be prepared to
answer intelligently such questions as he may propound, in addition to those stated.
This you raay do easily if you have studied the matter in this work relating to build-
ings, and also landscape effect.
XI. Glossary of Scientific Names Used in Architecture.
Abacus. — The upper member of the capital of a column, on which the architrave
is laid.
Abutment. — Masonry, earth or timber, at the end of a bridge, or the solid part of a
pier supporting an arch.
Arcade. — A covered walk along the side of or within a building, with columns on
the outer edge, supporting arches.
Arch. — A curved, self-sustaining structure, supported by the key-stone and abut-
ments; the beginning of the' arch is called the spring of the arch; the middle,
the crown; the distance across, the span; and vertically, the height.
Architrave. — The lower of the three members of the entablature, resting imme-
diately on the columns.
Astragal. — A small moulding, with semi-circular profile, as an ornament on the
top or bottom of a column.
Attic. — The upper story or garret of a building. An attic base is the base of a
column, with double mouldings.
Balcony. — A projection from the exterior wall of a building, inclosed with a
railing, usually placed before a window or glass door in the second story.
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDEE's AKT. 385
Baloon Frame. — A s^trong frame made, with few mortises and tenons, spikes and
nails holding all firmly together.
Baluster.^ — One of the upright portions of a railing, miscalled Banister.
Balustrade. — A range of balusters, connected by a rail on the top, and com-
monly called a railing.
Banister. — See Baluster.
Barge-board. — The projecting board placed at the gable, so as to hide the hori-
zontal timbers of the roof, more properly called verge-board.
Batten. — A narrow strip of board, for covering the exterior joints of vertically
boarded buildings. A batten-door is made of boards, with battens nailed on
across them as stiff eners.
Battlement. — A wall on the top of a building.
Bay. — The space between posts or buttresses; in barns a low apace for storing hay.
Bay Window. — A window, curved or angular, set in an exterior projection from the
walls of the house, and having its base on the ground.
Bead. — A moulding whose vertical section is semi-circular; a moulding ornamented
like beads.
Bearing. — The span of a beam or rafter, or that part which is without support.
Bond. — Mode of laying bricks or stones, to break the joints. "When the stretchers
and headers, as they are called, are in alternate and separate courses, it is
termed English bond ; when alternately in the same course, Flemish bond.
Bond-timber. — Timber laid in a wall horizontally, for tying it together.
Boudoir. — Private ladie^' room, for calls, dressing-room, etc.
Box-SHUTTERS. — Shuttcrs folding into cases.
Bracket. — A support for shelves, stairs, balconies, projecting roofs, etc.
Breast or a Chimney.— The contracting part of the back, opposite the throat.
Brick-trimmer. — A brick arch, abutting on thetvooden trimmer, under the slab of a
fireplace, to prevent the .cotamunication of fire.
Bridge-board. — The notched board on which the steps of wooden stairs are fastened.
Buttress. — A jirop or support of masonry against the sides of a building, to resist
pressure and stiffen walls.
Camber. — Convexity or arch on the upper side of a beam.
Campanile. — A tower on a building, sei'ving as a belfry.
Capital. — The upper, projecting, and ornamental part of a column.
Casement. — Applied to windows divided into two parts by the mullion, and hung
on hinges.
Cavetto. — A concave molding, whose profile is the quarter of a circle.
Cess-pool. — A well or cistern under the mouth of a drain, to receive the sediment.
Clapboard.— See Siding.
Clustered Column. — One made of several united.
Cobble-stone. — A round stone, often used for walls of buildings by imbedding
in regular courses in mortar or cement.
25
38() THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Colonnade — ^A range of columns.
Column. — A pillar consisting of base, shaft or body, and capital.
Composite Order. — A compound of the Ionic and Corinthian orders.
Console. — A bracket.
Coping. — The capping stone or brick covering of a wall, wider than the wall
itself, to throw off the water.
Corbel. — A projecting piece of wood or stone from a building.
Corinthian Order. — ^An order of Grecian architecture.
Cornice. — The upper projecting division of an entablature; any molded projection
which crowns or finishes the part to which it is attached.
Corridor. — A gallery or passage.
Cottage Ornee. — An ornamental cottage, where expression or appearance is the
chief object!
Course. — A continuous horizontal range of stones or brick in a wall.
Cove. — The concavity of an arch or ceiling.
Cross-bridged. —The cross-bracing placed between a series of timbers or joists.
Cupola. —A spheroidal roof or dome; a small structure on the top of a dome.
Curb-roof. — Gambrel roof, a roof with the lower half inclined at a steeper angle.
Cyma. — A wave-form member or part of a cornice; also termed ogee.
Deafening. — A floor covered with mortar placed beneath a floor, to exclude sound,
and prevent the passage of flames.
Details. — Applied to the drawings of the separate parts of a building; working
drawings.
Doric. — An order of Grecian architecture; intermediate between the Tuscan swid
Ionic, combining simplicity', strength and chasteness.
Dormer Window. — A window standing vertically on a sloping roof.
DoATi-TAiL. — A joint made for connoting wood, the parts cut in the form of a dove's
tail expanded, with a corresponding hollow.
DoAVEL. — A pin used in connecting two pieces of wood.
Dressings. — Parts to decorate plainer work, as the mouldings of a window.
Drip-stone. — A projecting window-cap, usually hollowed beneath that the I'ain may
drop from it.
Dumb-waiter. — A cupboard or platform running on pulleys, to convey dishes, food,
etc., from one story to another.
Elevation. — A drawing of the face or principal side of a building, every part seen
exactly in front ; differing from a perspective view, which is seen from one point.
Entablature. — The whole of the parts of an Order, above the column, including the
architrave, frieze and cornice.
Facade. — The front of a building.
Fascia. — One of the parallel bands used to break the monotony of an architrave.
Fillet. — A narrow, flat band, used for the separation of one molding from another.
FixiAL. — In Gothic architecture, the top or finishing of a pinnacle or gable.
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER's ART. 387
Flashing. — Lead or other metal let into the joints of a wall, so as to lap over gutters
and prevent the rain from injuring the interior works.
Float. — A long straight-edged board used to render a plastered wall perfectly
straight.
Foils. — A term applied to rounded or leaf-like forms seen in Gothic windows, niches,
and the hke.
Footing. — Spreading courses at the base of a wall.
Frieze. — The middle part of an entablature, between the architrave and cornice.
Funnel. — The stack or upper part of a chimney ; the shaft.
Furring. — Shps of wood nailed to joists and rafters, to bring them to an even
surface for lathing.
Gable. — The triangular end of a house above the eaves.
Gain. — The beveling shoulder of a joist or other lumber.
Gallery. — A common passage to several rooms in an upper story ; a long apartment
for paintings, etc.
Gambrel Roof. — See curb roof.
Gingerbread-work. — A profusion of fanciful ornamental carvings ; this is always
in very bad taste.
Girder. — The principal beam or timber in a floor.
Girth. — Horizontal connecting timber in an upright frame.
Gothic Architecture. — The style of architecture denoted by the pointed arch. It
admits of great variation in all its parts ; the roof may be castellated or pointed,
or with broad projecting eaves. A still greater variety exists in the windows,
among which are the arched, triple lancet, rose, square-headed, oriel, triangular
and other forms.
Grained. — Painted in imitation of the grain or texture of wood.
Groin. — A line made by the intersection of two arches, crossing eacn other at any
angle.
Ground-sill — Ground-plate. — The lower and outer timber, supporting the posts.
Hall. — A large public room; the first large room within a building; the narrow
entrance of a d.welling house, designated as the entrance hall.
Hammer-beam. — A horizontal timber, in place of a tie-beam, just above the foot of
a rafter ; used in pairs to strengthen Gothic frames.
Harmony. — In large buildings, where variety prevails, it is that which brings all the
varied parts into an agreeable relation to each other.
Headers. — Bricks laid crosswise in a wall, in contradistinction from stretchers, laid
lengthwise. See Bond.
Hip. — The sloping angle of a hipped roof.
Hip-knob. — A finia.l, pinnacle or other ornament on the point of a gable, or on the
hips of a roof.
Hipped-roof. — A roof with sloping ends.
Hood. — A projecting covering over a window or door, for shade and to throw off water.
388 THE HOME AND FARM MAXLAL.
HooD-MOLDixG. — The molding over a Gothic window, called also label-molding.
Hydraulic Ce^iext. — Mortar made of water lime, which hardens like stone under
water; used for cisterns, cellar bottoms, etc.
IxTERTiE. — A horizontal piece of timber between two posts, to keep them together.
Ln'verted Arch. — Ai-ch curving downwards, to give a firm foundation to piers.
Ionic Order. — ^A Grecian Order of Architecture.
Italian Architecture. — An irregular and beautiful style of modern architecture.
Has projecting eaves, arcades, balconies, ornamental chimney tops, campaniles, etc.
Jack Timbers. — Those shorter than the rest in the same row or line, by being inter-
cepted by something else.
Joggles. — Pieces of hard stone introduced to stiffen the joints of masonry.
Joint. — The place where two pieces of timber come together.
Joist.-: — The smaller timber of a floor.
IvEY. — A piece of wood let into another, across the grain, to prevent warping.
King-post. — The middle post of a framed i-oof, reaching from the center of the tie-
beam to the ridge ; called crown-post.
Label. — The outer moulding over a window or doorwav, descending a short distance
on each side.
Lancet-window. — A window in Gothic architecture , acutely pointed at the top.
Landing. — The floor at the head of a flight of stairs, or portion of a flight.
Lintel. — The head-piece of a door or window frame.
Lodge. — A small house or tenement connected with a larger. A gate lodge or
porter's lodge is one placed near an entrance gate to an estate.
Louver-window. — A window open to the sound of bells within, but with blinds to
exclude rain.
Mansard-roof. — A French roof, inclining back slightly from the perpendicular, with
a roof of low pitch above.
Miter. — The junction of two boards, at an angle, by a diagonal fitting.
Modillion. — A carved horizontal bracket.
Mortise. — A hole cut in a timber to receive a tenon, or corresponding piece of
another timber.
Mouldings. — The ornamental contour given to angles of cornices, window-jambs,
etc., or to ornamental lines or borders generally'.
Mow. — The loft of a barn.
Million. — The upright jjost or bar, dividing the two or more parts of a window.
Newel. — The column about which the steps of a spiral staircase wind.
Notch-board. — The board which receives the ends of the steps of a flight of stairs.
Ogee. — See Cyma.
Oriel-window. — A projecting window, supported on a corbel or other projection; a
l)ay-window; or has a foundation resting on the ground.
OvoLO. — A convex molding, whose profile forms about a quarter of a circle on its
lower inclined side.
BUILUINU MATERIAL AND THE BUILDEE's A1!T. 389
Panel. — A sunken space, most commonly applied to the portion of a door between
the upright pieces (styles) and the horizontal pieces (rails).
Parlor. — The sitting-room or living-room of a family; more commonly restricted to
a room for visitors.
Pavilion. — ^A word variously applied in rural architecture; a broad, highly finished
veranda on the better class of dwellings.
Pedestal. — The lower part or base of a column, consisting of the die or square
trunk, the cornice or head, and the base or foot; also, the support of a vase,
statue, etc.
Pediment. — The triangular or circular part of a portico, between the roof and top
of the entablature.
Pendant. — An ornament hanging from the vault of a roof, in Gothic architecture;
more commonly from the peak of a gable — the lower part of the ornament being
the pendant, and the portion above the roof the hip-knob or finial.
Piazza. — ^A covered walk on one or more sides of a building, supported on one side
by pillars. It is used nearly synonymously with veranda; the latter implies
more shade and seclusion, often having lattice-work in front.
Pier. — ^Usually the pillar-like masses of masonry fi-om which arches spring.
Pillar. — A general name for a permanent prop or support ; a column is an orna-
mental pillar, usually round, and belonging to one of the Ordei-s of Architecture.
Pinnacle. — The summit or apex; usually a square or polygonal pillar, at the angles
of Gothic buildings, terminating at a point, and embellished with ornament.
Pise. — A wall constructed of stiff earth or clay, rammed in between moulds as the
work is carried up. In countries where frequent rains prevail, it cannot be very
durable, unless covered, and is similar in character to walls made of unburnt
brick.
Pitch of a Eoof. — The proportion between the height and the span. If the rafters
exceed in length the width of the building, the roof has a "knife-edge pitch:"
if equal to the width, it is Gothic; if two-thirds, it is termed a Roman pitch;
flatter it is a Grecian pitch. Generally the pitch is designated by number; if the
height of the ridge is one-fourth of the span of the roof, it is termed " quarter
pitch ;" if one-third the span, " third pitch," etc.
Plan. — A drawing of the horizontal section of a building, showing the distribution,
form and size of the parts.
Plate. — See Roof, as showing much in little space.
Plinth. — A projecting, vertical-faced member, forming the lowest part of the base
of a column or wall.
Pointing. — Trimming with mortar the joints of a wall of masonry.
Porch. — An appendage to a building, forming a covered approach to a door or
• entrance.
Porte Cochere. — A carriage porch, or covered entrance to a large dwelling, under
which a carriage may drive; literally, a covered carriage-way.
390 THE HOME AND FARM JL4XUAL.
Portico. — A covered space or projection, supported by columns, at the entrance of a
building.
Purlins. — Horizontal pieces of timber to support rafters
Putlog. — A horizontal timber to support a scaffold.
Quarters. — Upright posts in partitions, to which lath are nailed.
Rabbet (Rebate). — ^A cut made on the side or edge of a board, to receive the edge
of another cut in the same manner.
Rail. — This is a horizontal piece of timber, as between the panels of a door, or over
balusters, etc.
Reeding. — A small convex molding.
Ribbing. — The timber work sustaining a vaulted ceiling.
Ridge-pole, or Ridge-plate. — The horizontal timber or board sustaining the upper
ends of the rafters.
Romanesque. — A style of architecture, adopted during the later period of the Roman
Empire. It is prominenly marked by arches and columns, and also by irregular
forms.
Roof. — The upper covering of a building, consisting mainly of two parts, viz: the
framing or trussing, and the covering of shingles, or other material. The differ-
ent forms are a curved or French roof, a roof with an ogee curve, a gable, hip,
and gambrel or curb roof.
Room. — Interior division of a dwelling, entered by a door. The first room (in houses
containing all these different apartments) is the vestibule, or lobby, or ante-
room, when used as a reception-room. The second, the hall, or first large room
within the building. There are the library, study, or office, or a room with
these variously combined; the parlor or family room, sometimes used as an
every-day living-room, in other instances as a breakfast-room, or a room for
company only; the drawing-room, or room specially for the reception of com-
pany, or into which the company retire from the dining-room. In the smaller
houses the parlor and drawing-room are one. The dining-room and kitchen are
distinct; and appended to the kitchen maybe the laundrj- or wash-room, the
store-room or pantry, for provisions; the iron closet, for the coarser utensils;
the scullery or sink-room, where utensils and dishes are cleaned and kept; the
bath-room; the nursery; the boudoir, or ladies' private dressing-room, or for
the private reception of company; and bed-rooms, the larger of which may have
dressing-rooms attached, and closets. In the largest and most expensive dwell-
ings, all these rooms are found separately; but as dwellings become smaller, the
purposes of two or more are combined in one.
Rough-cast. — Rough mortar or cement for the exterior walls of buildings, mixed
with pebbles, small shells, etc.
Rubble. — Small rough stones, used for walls or filling between walls.
Rustic-work. — Building with the faces of stone left rough, and the joining sides
wrouofht smooth; ornamental wood structures, with the bark on.
BUILDING MATERIAL AND THE BUILDER'S ART. 391
Safety-akch. — An arch built solid in the substance of a wall, to sustain any unusual
weight on that part; a discharging arch.
Saloon. — ^A lofty, spacious apartment; state-room; reception-room.
Scarp-joint. — ^A joint made by cutting away corresponding portions of timbers.
Shaft. — The principal or central part of a column ; the chimney above the roof,
Shoe. — The projecting part of a water-pipe at bottom, to throw the water from the
building.
Siding. — The exterior side covering of boards to a building.
Sill. — The lower, horizontal timber of a frame, door or window.
Specification. — An exact written description of the different parts of a building to
be erected.
Springer. — The base of an arch; the rib of a groined roof.
Stack. — A number of chimney shafts combined in one.
Stile. — The vertical piece in framing or paneling.
Stretchers. — Bricks laid lengthwise in a wall.
Strut. — An oblique timber in a frame, serving as a brace. The term brace is usually
applied to smaller and shorter pieces.
Stucco. — Fine plaster for covering walls, and for interior decorations. The best is
made of two parts of sharp and perfectly pure sand, and one part of purest lime,
the latter slacked with water to a fine powder, sifted and mixed with the sand.
Outer walls, stuccoed, should have broad projecting eaves to throw off water.
Stud. — A piece of timber inserted in a sill to support a beam — a term usually applied
to the upright scantling of a frame.
SuEBASE. — A cornice or series of mouldings above the pedestal; also applied to the
board which passes horizontally around the walls of a room, to protect them
from injury.
Terra Cotta. — Architectural decorations, vases, chimney tops, etc., made of a mix-
ture of pure clay and broken flints, crushed pottery and other materials, and
burned to the hardness of stone.
Tie. — Timber serving to bind walls or other parts together.
Tracery. — In Gothic architecture, the ornamental, feathery or foliated upper parts
of an arched window, formed by the branching of the muUions: the intersecting
rib-work on a vaulted ceiling, etc.
Trap. — A small water reservoir in a drain-pipe, to intercept bad odors, and retain
sediment.
Triglyph. — An ornament repeated at equal intervals in a Doric frieze.
Truncated Gable. — A gable with a portion of its roof drooping in front.
Truss.— A horizontal timber supported by bracings above, so as to form a long span
without posts below.
Turret. — A small tower, usually attached to and forming part of another tower.
Tuscan. — The simplest order of architecture, formed in Italy in the fifteenth century.
Valley. — The receding angle formed by the meetingof two inclined sides of a roof.
3i>2 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
\'enetian Blind. — A window blind made of slats of wood strung together so as to
be raised or lowered by a string.
Venetian Dooe. — A door having panes of glass on each side for lighting the
entrance hall.
Venetian "Window. — One formed of three apertures separated by slender piers,
the center one being the largest.
Veranda. — ^A covered walk on the side of a building, of an awning-like chai-acter,
with slender pillars, and frequently partly enclosed with lattice-work. It is
usually understood tcj. i)e more secluded than a piazza. Arbor veranda is a
frame covered with foliage.
Veege-boaed. — The gable ornament of wood-work — often called barge-board.
Vestibule. — See Eoom.
Villa — A country house of superior character.
Volute. — A scroll or spiral ornament, which forms the principal distinction of the
Ionic capital, and is also found in the Corinthian and Composite. See Ionic
Order.
Wall-plate. — See Roof.
Water-closet. — A privy, supplied with a stream of water, or water-pipe, to keep
it clean.
Watee-lime. — A species of lime that when made into mortar (sec Stucco), will
become hard under water.
Weathee-boaed. — A board on the gable from the ridge to the eaves; the outer
boards of a building nailed so as to overlap and throw off rain.
Weathee-molding. — A molding or drip-stone, over a door or window, to throw off
the rain.
Well-hole. — The space enclosed by the walls of a circular stair-case.
WoEKiNG-DEA wings. — Drawings of different parts of a building, according to accu-
rate measurement, including plans, elevations, profiles and sections, by which
the builders are to be guided.
Wainscot. — The wooden lining on the interior surface of a wall.
CHAPTER III.
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES.
FAKM HOUSES AND COTTAGES. ir. COTTAGE FOE FAKM HAND. III. SQUARE COTTAGE. IV.
SUBUK15AN OR FARM COTTAGE. -V. A PRETTY RURAL HOME. VI. A CONVENIENT COTTAGE.
VII. FARM-HOUSE IN THE ITALIAN STYLE. VIII. ENI:;IJSH GOTHIC COTTAGE. IX. PLAN OF
RURAL GROUNDS. X. SCHOOL-HOUSE AND CHURCH ARCHITECTURE. XI. CHILDREN'S WIG
WAM. XII. RUSTIC SEATS AND SUMMER HOUSES. XIII. SOME RURAL OUT-BUILDINGS. XIV.
POULTRY HOUSES AND CHICKEN COOPS. XV. GLASS STRUCTURES. XYI. SMOKE-HOUSES. XVII.
THE FARM ICE-HOUSE. XVIII. PRIVIES AND THEIR ARRANGEMENT.
A PLAIN FARM-HOUSE.
I. Farm Houses and Cottages.
«E have attempted to give a comprehensive description of what was absolutely
necessary in the erection of farm and suburban dwellings, barns, carriage
^ houses and stables, as well as some important considerations relating to the
production of landscape effects. To carry out the matter fully, it will only be
necessary to present illustrations accompanied with diagrams to enable a,ny one, in con-
nection with those heretofore given, to select a plan within his means. AA^ealthy men
who desire to build, can afford to pay for elaborate drawings. The plans we give can
[393]
394
THE HOME AXD FARM >IAXUAL.
be carried out by any master workman. Some of the more simple of these, >;iich as
minor out-buildings, summer houses, seats and fixtures, can be constructed, and even
GROUXD PLAN No. 1.
m^- i-
K m
LI
GROUND PLAN No. 2.
1
elaborated, by any person able to use ordinary tools. Our first illustration shows a
plain farm-house, with little attempt at ornament.
In this house the rooms are of fair size, and suitable for a working family of
seven persons. The veranda is tasteful. The eaves should project farther all round.
COTTAGE FOR FARM HAND.
and the trablcs be furnished with a handsome cornice. Then it would lie no less
comfortable, but far inore attractive. One hundred dollars added to the original cost
RURAL BUILDIX(iS, OlT-llOLSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES.
395
woald accomplish all this. The diagrams on page 394 show two plans of dividing the
first floor. They are: In plan No. 1, A, veranda; B, living room, 13x12 feet; C,
kitchen, 13x12; D, pantry, 8x11^; E E, bed-rooms, (3x7 i^, too small, but doors
connecting with kitchen and living room may be left open; F, laundry, 9x12 feet;
1, wood-shed.
Plan No. 2. G, veranda; H, living room, 17x12 feet; I, kitchen, iSxll; K, bed
room, 8x10; L, pantry; M, laundry; N, store-room ; O, wood-shed. The upper
floor may be divided by a hall through the middle, and if the elevation is made
higher, to admit attic windows, front and rear, or half-dormer windows, will make
four good bed-rooms.
c
13
_•!■_
3X 12 '
, d
,0
n
12X15 P
12
iZYlS
c
V.
^ 1
\^^
FIRST-FLOOR, SQUARE COTTAGE.
SECOND-FLOOR, SQUARE COTTAGl
II. Cottage for Farm Hand.
The design of a cottage for farm hand is made with a view to economy of space.
It would be appropriate for a farmer of small means, or for the married farm hand of
a well-to-do farmer. The enclosed porch, 1 yi'^i.'l ]4 feet, forms an entry or vestibule
to the parlor, 13^ feet square. In this case, the kitchen, 13i^xl6i^, serves also as
the living room. The bed-room is 13^x9, with closet; pantry Gj4x8}4- The pass-
age is two feet eight, and the stairs two feet four inches wide. These last are in
a projection not shown in the cut.
III. Square Cottage.
The plan of cottage for farm hand may be modified, and gain room, in com-
parison with the cost. The first and second floors are shown in the diagrams. The
square form of building is better than any other in relation to the economy of space,
heating, and relative cost of construction. Hence, square houses are favorites,
where strict economy must come in. We have illustrated a number of square forms,
or oblong square, and for the reason that this book is intended for the mrisses,
whose buildings are frequently constructed without the direct assistance of the
professional architect.
3^6 HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
This cottage would make a capital farm-house, if carried to an attic above the
SUBUEBAN OR FARM COTTAGE.
second floor, and covered with a hipped roof, that is, one sloping equally to each of the
four sides . The attic being converted into bed-rooms .
To add still more to the appearance of a dwelling of
this height, the eaves should over-hang, and the center
of roof support an observatory. The lower floor
would contain parlor, dining-room and kitchen, with
necessary closets; the dining-room having a hand-
some bay window.- The second floor contains two
parlor bed-rooms, and another of nice size, with
ample clothes-presses and closets, and the attic
might be divided into double bed-rooms for farm
hands.
IV. Suburban or Farm Cottage.
This is a tasteful, economical and cosy cottage,
adapted, in point of architecture, to a rolling or hill
country. The hall is to be used as a sitting-room
or parlor, and the front bed-room may be converted
into a library. The kitchen and living room is 18.\-12, and the rear building combines
a wood-house, laundry and water-closet. The rooms are nine feet high in the clear.
GROUND PLAN.
KURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES. 397
and whether built of wood, brick or stone, the house is handsome. The upper story
A PRETTY RUUAL HOME.
has two feet of perpendicular wall, which, with the sharp roof, gives plenty of air?
and may contain two large sleeping-
rooms of unequal size, each lighted by a
handsome side window, and one of them
by a dormer.
v. A Pretty Rural Home.
This house is adapted to a family of
moderate means, doing business in a city
and living in the country, or for a well-
to-do business man or retired farmer, with
small family, in a suburban town.
The elevation and ground plan here
given fully explain it. The upper stoiy
consists of four bed-rooms and a bath-
room. Ground plan: 1, porch; 2, lobby;
3, parlor; 4, library or boudoir; 5, out-
side porch; {), dining-room; 7, kitchen;
8, scullery. It will be seen that the porch,
5, might easily be arranged as a conserv-
atory. GROUND PLAN OF RURAL HOME.
398
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
VI. A Convenient Cottage.
This house qombines convenience with utility and economy of space. It may be
cheaply built, for the reason that theBe is no -costly ornamentation. This, however,
may be added outside and in, for it is the finish of the average house that costs money.
It will be seen that while the halls are large enough to be convenient, all that can be
spared from them has been added to make the rooms more spacious. The opening,
usually filled with folding doors, is eight feet
square, making the parlor and dining-room a
large saloon, thus greatly adding to the hospit-
able look of the house, and giving large space.
1
1
1
r
'-.
BEOnOOM
15^6 X 8.6
BEDROOM
IS XIS
BEDROOM
/ IS.6 X «.e
C
k
. c
aEOUND PLAN OF CONVENIENT COTTAGE.
SECOND FLOOR OF CONVENIENT COITAGE.
The stairs, enclosed between two walls, are
more cheaply built. Each room has a closet,
and with one exception, has straight edges.
The house is ten feet between joists on the
FAEM-HOUSE IN THE ITALIAN STYLE.
first story and nine feet above; the plan also provides for a cellar and stone cistern.
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES. 399
VII. Farm-house in the Italian Style.
Low pitched roofs projecting over tlie walls mark the Italian style of architecture.
It is adapted to mild sunny climates, not subject to yiolent winds, heavy rains, or
deep snow. The elevation gives walls of ample height, both above and below. The
tower adds dignity to the building, gives the noble porch below, an office or library
iin the second story and an observatory above, making a nice summer sleeping-room,
and giving also quick access to the roof in case of fire. From the porch one door
A CONVENIENT COTTAGE.
•pens to a hall, and thence to the living-room and to the parlor and its bay-window.
There is also an ample kitchen, with pantry and china closet, laundry and wash-room.
The second story is divided into sleeping apartments.
Buildings of this class are favorites with suburban residents, of limited means,
and especially as summer residences. They are cheap, may be made attractive at
small cost,. but if erected on a farm, or for a permanent residence, should be more
substantially built, than if only used as a summer home. Particular care must be
taken to secure warmth in winter by protecting the sheathing boards with the best
building paper, especially on the prairies, where the wind searches every crevice.
400 THE HOME AXD FARM MANUAL.
VIII. English Gothic Cottage.
It has not been the aim of this work to deal in elaborate architecture, and hence
in presenting the plan of an English gothic cottage, we have been guided by the
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES.
401
elegant solidity represented in the stone cottage illustrated, as adapted to the retired
business man or farmer. There are thousands of far more costly and elaborate farm
structures in the United States, and the
taste for such is constantly increasing with
increasing wealth.
The builder of costly
have heretofore said,
When
grounds is
■Jfe.
.^-
ja
GROUND PLAN OF ENGLISH GOTHIC COTTAGE.
structures, as we
should consult a good architect. It will
save much more than the cost of his com
missions. But the master carpenter will be
sufficient for the, more simple homes
elaborate ornamentation of the
intended, it will pay to consult a competent
landscape gardener, while again the more
simple ornamentation may be done by the
farm hands under the direction of the intel-
ligent farmer who has studied this work.
In carrying out the details, the ground plan
fully explains itself. The vestibule opening
into the parlor and library by its wide slid-
ing doors, will afford magnificent space for
special occasions. The hall (dining-room),
also in connection with the vestibule, will
enable the proprietor to dispense large hos-
pitality. Not the least attractive features
of the whole are the projecting eaves,
and the elegantly grouped chimneys, while the latticed casements give an added
charm. The second story should form four spacious chambers, arranged as spare
rooms. It would be a pity to cut them differently for the sake of additional apart-
ments. When there are many guests, they may generally be so quartered together
that additional beds in each room will accommodate many.
While preserving the same general form, it will readily be seen that the plan
given above, is adapted to extensive modification. We have given a somewhat
unusual arrangement of the ground fioor, but especially adapted to the retired
farmer, living at his ease, principally on the revenue of his farm. The bed-room
may be made a second parlor or family room, and connect by folding doors, thus
almost throwing the whole lower floor into one grand reception room for special
occasions.
IX. Plan 'of Rural Grounds.
One more illustration and our pictures of rural domestic comfort will be com-
plete. This is a plan of rural grounds showing water and a broken slope from the
house to the public road. The front is an ornamental hedge of hemlock, unfortu-
nately a plant that does not generally thrive. When it does, it makes the most
26
402
THE HOME AND FARM MAJSTJAL.
magnificent of evergreen hedges. The illustrations in an earlier portion of this
chapter will give a variety to select from. In
this view we show grounds adapted to a sub-
urban residence, the sides planted with a hedge
of various ornamental plants suitable, but by
taking away these so the lawn may gradually
give way to pasture and then to fields of gi'ain,
it may be adapted to the farm. The public
road is at the north, and as you enter at the left
hand is the pond, as shown in outline ; at the
south end is rock-work planted with shrubs,
vines, etc., and so more or less of rocks, vines,
shrubs, etc., dot the banks of the pond, while
trees of elegant shapes cast their shadow over
the water. Continuing south beyond the pond
is, eighty feet from it, a rustic summer-Bouse
with vines entwined upon it. The straight
lines mark rows of grapes, while bordering the
foot-path is a belt of shrubs. Then you reach
the indication of trees, marked by dots; a
mass of flowering shrubs is planted against the
foot-path, backed up with dwarf apple and
pears until within about twenty feet of the
line boundary, which space is devoted to straw-
berries. Going back now to the entrance, on
the right of the carriage road, we have beds
and masses of rock-work, evergreens and flow-
ering shrubs, with elm, weeping birch, etc.,
while bordering the carriage-way, most of the
way to the house is an orchard of cherries, quince and pear, and the vegetable garden.
On the lawn the flower-beds are shown, cut out of and surrounded by grass. The
rear portion of the place is blocked and planted in line with fruit trees, and in the
rear of the house are planted evergreen trees for screens, shelter and ornament.
X. School-house sjid Church Architecture.
Ox the principle that every building should be adapted to the use for which it is
intended, there would seem to be room for improvement in our pubhc buildings in all
our smaller cities and villages. The great mistake is in the failure to provide venti-
lation, correct acoustic facilities, perfect heating arrangements, comfortable seats,
and ready egress in ease of panic fi'om fire or other accidental causes. In country
districts the school-house is always the place of holding caucuses, society meetings,
clubs, singing societies, public amusements, and often it is used on Sundays as a
PLAN or EUEAL GROtJXDS.
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES.
403
church. Hence it should be the best building in the neighborhood ; not only built in
the best manner, but pleasant in its surroundings. The lot should not be less than a
full acre in extent, thoroughly and substantially fenced, carefully planted with trees
and shrubbery, and, except the play-ground, laid out with walks and flower-beds and
ornamented with flowers. The situation should be commanding, on high or well-
drained land, near a public highway, and as near the center of the district as possible.
SCHOOL AND MEETING HOUSE COMBINED.
Then, if the teacher have taste and practicality, and the trustees business discretion
and firmness, the place will become one of the most attractive in the neighborhood,
and all will work together in keeping it so.
The illustration of school and meeting house combined will serve to convey our
meaning, and may be used for a variety of purposes, as a school-house and union
church, or as a church edifice solely.
The next illustration is that of a neighborhood or district school-house, such as
should be found in every neighboAood. The diagram shows the inside arrangement.
In furnishing either a country church or school-house, attention should especially
404
HOME AXD FAEM MAX UAL.
be paid to the comfort of the scholars, communicants and attendants generally,
upholstery, but not necessarily carpets in the aisles and other passage-ways.
Avoid
These
NEIGHBORHOOD PRIMART SCHOOL- HOUSE.
should always be covered with carpets or matting to prevent noise. The inside
arrangement of a primary school
is shown in the subjoined plan.
The school-house standing back
sixty feet from the road. The
building is 40x33 feet with 12 feet
posts. A, lobby leading to en-
trance; a, stove, the coal or wood
bin being in the lobby at c, and
the wood-box at d. The closet,
B, contains a sink and washing
conveniences, and as many hooks
as possible for hanging wraps, etc.
C is the teacher's platform, 20x5
feet and seven inches high above
the general floor of the interior.
The windows, eleven in number,
are hung as to both sashes with
weights. The room is provided
with sixty desks, of three sizes, to
accommodate scholars of larjrer
and smaller size. The center aisle
is three feet wide and the side
aisles two feet wide. The aisles
INTERIOR OF PEiMAET SCHOOL-HOUSE. ^^^ passage in front of the desk
are covered with cocoa matting to deaden the sound. The teacher's platform is
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES.
405
carpeted, and the most of the scholars furnish small pieces of carpet or rugs for
their feet. Hence there is no clatter of feet on the floor.
XI. Children's Wigwam.
In reference to the decoration of school-lots, one feature is worthy of notice in
connection with the school building we have just portrayed. It is in a district where a
SCHOLARS' WIGWAM.
good many boys are raised. The children, instigated by the teacher — a lady as
refined and delicate in her culture as she is exacting in her kindly discipline — are
enthusiastic cultivators of the flowers in the school-yard, as they are industrious
drivers of the lawn mower when the grass gets above regulation height; the team of
which usually consists of a girl and a boy at the handle. The children conceived the
idea that a summer-house would be nice, and so the teacher evolved the above house.
406
HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
from hop-poles constructed by the pupils, with some help from a clever carpenter, in
fitting and raising.
How do you like it? The children enjoy it im-
mensely ! Especially so, since they believe they did
a large part of the labors of thinking out the plan and
erecting it. And this brings us to a cognate subject.
XII. Rustic Seats and Summer-Houses.
The garden and lawn are incomplete, if not sup-
plied with some kind of seat, and when these have, to
be bought, there is such an infinity of designs to select
from that all may be satisfied according to the contents
of the purse. The charm, however, of all these orna-
mentations, whether of shade or comfort, is their rustic
A RUSTIC SEAT. character. Here is one rustic enough, and at the same
time, comfortably arranged for a tete-a-tete.
One of the prettiest effects we have ever seen was an elegant summer-house of
woven wire, appropriately situated on a fine lawn, shaded here and there with large
trees, and planted with shrubbery, a cut of which we give on opposite page.
What do you suppose, dear reader, was contained within this summer-house?
As surprising and as pleasant as thing as a school-yard, with trees, walks, flowers
fV\Y^/
SUMMER-HOUSE OF BARK.
SQUARE SUMMER-HOUSE.
and a rustic summer-house. It was neither more or less than the veritable stump we
have illustrated, with a rustic seat running all around it. The ladies voted it posi-
tively delightful — in fact, " too cute fpr anything." But every person has not the
bank account of our friend of the elegant summer-house, who first had to buy the
stump and pay railroad transportation on it. It is not necessary, as the preceding
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES.
407
elegant designs will show. Anybody who can peel bark in June, lay it under
pressure to dry flat, and cut and fit the pieces, can build either of these two elegant
designs that we give herewith out of many we have seen. Why not try? There is
nothing of either of them but bark and poles, not even the furniture.
It is not necessary to describe how to do the work. In fact, the illustrations are
the best description that can be given. It is simply a matter of taste, ingenuity and
AN ELEGANT SUMMEK-HOUSE.
judgment. We think the circular house especially fine, particularly in its light and
graceful appearance, added to by its roof of bark cut in scallops, and by its center-
table and seat, covered with bark. It is surprising how many fine combinations of
color may be gotten entirely out of bark.
XIII. Some Rural Out-Buildings.
The out-buildings of every farm must correspond to the branches of agriculture
followed. The gardener will want structures of glass, and every farmer should have
one structure besides the hot-bed or cold-frame containing a good deal of glass. That
is a poultry-house. We give an illustration. The main building will serve the
408
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
ordinary farmer, and the extension may be added on either side to suit the growing
numbers. The care of fowls has been fully treated in a previous work, "Pictorial
Cyclopedia of Live Stock and Complete Stock Doctor," issued by the publishers of
this volume. The poultry-house should always be provided with a bath of dust,
feeding boxes and fresh drinking water. A drink-
ing fountain that will be continually supplied, so
lone as the water in the barrel lasts, is shown.
A modification of this will also supply grain for
food. A small tube extends from the barrel
above nearly to the bottom of the reservoir below.
The barrel being air-tight the water is only given
as needed, or when the water gets so low as to
allow the air to enter through the tube. A larger
tube, to admit grain, will also give satisfaction,
since the grain piling up around the outside of
the tube will prevent the giving down more than
is wanted.
DRINKING FOUNTAIN.
Besides
XIV. Poultry-Houses and Chicken-Ooops.
The poultry-house, page 409, will suffice for the wants of any farmer.
this, coops and enclosures for young chickens and ducks are necessary.
We give two illustrations of the more simple forms, which explain themselves,
and which any farmer can make. They may be
covered with bark, thatched with prairie-grass,
or, as in lower view, page 409, where grouped,
be separated by wattles or reeds as shown, or,
indeed, the whole built of reeds.
There is one economy in the keeping and
rearing of young chickens, and especially ducks,
not generally estimated ; that is their value as in-
defatigable hunters of insects. The youngUngs,
therefore, should have full liberty to range as
soon as large enough to run freely, the mother being confined, as shown in cut.
The old-fashioned barrel-coop is familiar to
many housewives who have been compelled to
improvise something in haste. The improved
form, as shown, may perhaps tempt husband,
hired man, or the boys to prepare a supply in
the workshop at odd times.
A WICICET COOP.
BAKKEL-COOP.
XV. Glass Structures.
The gardener and seedsman, besides hot-beds and cold frame, may need a gi-een-
house or propagating pit. A good lean-to form, against a wall, is shown on page 410.
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES.
409
The general nursery-man, and especially the seeds-man, often require extensive
ranges of glass for propagating plants that will not reach full maturity without some
early forcing. The market gardener also requires these ranges of glass for forcing
POULTRY HOUSE.
early vegetables and other plants for removal, later in the season, into the open air.
The illustration will show a propagating house in connection with the dry-house for
curing seeds, and ranges of glass for forcing plants. These ranges allow the passage
of a wagon between them for carrying in heating manure and removing the spent.
The dry-house is provided with proper heaters and ventilators for the perfect curing
of seeds, and to keep them from dampness during extended foggy or rainy weather.
CHICKEN AND DUCK ENCLOSURE.
XVI. Smoke-Houses.
Every farm homestead should be provided with a fire and thief proof smoke-
house, or one at least secure from common depredators. We give companion
pictures, one of brick, the other of wood. Our advice is to build of brick, with an
iron door, and without light save through the ventilators, which latter would be
better if placed at the peak than in the gable, as is shown in the frame building, or
under the eaves as in the brick building. However ventilated, these should be pro-
410
HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
tected by wire screens to keep out insects. Air should be admitted at the bottom by
means of pipes protected from rats and mice by screens. The house should be ten
LEAN-TO PROPAGATING PIT.
or twelve feet high, to give plenty of space between the fire and meat, and if the smoke
is introduced from the outside through a pipe so much the better. [See cuts p. 413.J
PROPAGATING AND DRY-HOUSE.
XVII. The Farm Ice-House.
Every farm homestead should have an ice-house as one of the out-buildings.
The construction is exceedingly simple, merely two walls fourteen inches apart filled
EURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURKS.
411
IS^^.
■with sawdust, drainage underneath, and a floor of poles filled in and covered with
sawdust for the ice to lie on. There must be a double door
on one side, for putting in ice and for ventilation, as shown,
under the eaves, but no ventilation — all must be tight — at
the bottom and sides. A cube of ice of eight feet, that is,
eight feet on every side, will keep perfectly and supply a
--moderate family for a year. Lay the ice in square blocks
to the eaves, the height of the house to be determined by
the width, and cover the top with a foot of sawdust, or
eighteen inches of hay, allowing a free circulation of air
above the ice as shown in the cut. Thus ice will keep as well on the farm as in the
more elaborate building of the city man. A cube of ice twelve feet square will
supply an ordinary farm dairy and one of sixteen feet a large creamery.
FARM ICE-HOUSE.
XVIII. Privies and their Arrangement.
The practice of building privies with vaults dug deep in the earth, holding the
accumulation of generations, with no means of cleaning except those most repulsive,
added to the danger of contam-
ination of the water of wells,
and infection of the air there-
from, has long engaged the at-
tention of sanitary engineers.
These old-fashioned and repul-
sive buildings of the farm-house
have now been abandoned in
many instances for something
better. Twenty-five years ago
we had built, within fifty feet
of the house and well, a build-
ing entirely concealed by a
screen of shrubbery, and en-
tered from a flight of three
steps, and with all the lower
apparatus above the ground and
easy of access. From this no
odor was apparent either inside
or out. It v^ras cleaned by
drawing the privy-box, running
on rollers, from a door in the
rear, and emptied several times
^ OUTLINE OF FARM EARTH-CLOSET.
a week into a wheel-baiTow.
The following is an improved and modified plan. The sketch shows the interior
Door
. \ y^
412
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
of the privy, elevated high enough from the ground to permit the box being drawn
out directly on to a barrow and wheeled away. D, is the dumping-box, S, the air-
shaft running up through the roof. The paper and dust box, with scoop, is shown
on the floor, the opening of the door being at one side. The best dust is, of course,
finely pulverized and air-dried clay, but dried roaid-dust is the most easily obtained
and good enough. It maj^ be re-dried under a shed, and used over and over again,
until thoroughly saturated, and then used as manure. Thej;e is no disagreeable odor
whatever from it.
ijjjjpc^
EESEEVOIR EARTH-CLOSET.
Whenever the seat is used, one or more scoopfulls of dry earth are to be
thrown over the deposit. That is all, and certainly cleanliness and health should cause
its adoption. There is no patent attached to it, and the odor from the old-fashioned
nuisances calls loudly for a change. The use of dry earth in preventing odor from
offensive substances is as old as the wanderings of the Israelites in the desert,
and therefore is venerable from antiquity.
Another form is the French earth closet, in which the dry earth is held in a
resei-voir above, and a portion set free by raising the seat-cover. The earth is
deposited in the pan shown beneath, by raising the rod, M, by which the earth-slide
is jjushed out from under the reservoir and drops its contents in the pail. After trying
RURAL BUILDINGS, OUT-HOUSES AND GARDEN STRUCTURES. 413
both, we prefer our own plan, aince it is just as efficient and never gets out of
BRICK SMOKE-HOUSE.
FRAMED SMOKE-HOUSE.
repair. Sifted coal ashes, especially that from anthracite coal, answers well as a
deodorizer, but more is required than of dust from a clay road.
CHAPTER l^^
BARNS. STABLES AND CORN-CRIBS.
GKOUPmG FARM BUILDIKGS. II. A COMPLETE CATTLE -FEEDING BARN. ni. HORSE ASD COW
BARN WITH SHED. IV. SUBURBAN CARRIAGE-HOUSE AND STABLE. V. SHEEP BAKNS AND
THEIR ARRANGEMENT. ^VI. HOG BARNS. VU. GRANARIES, CORN-HOUSES AND CORN-CRIBS.
VIII. RAT-PROOF GRANARY AND COEN-CRIB. IX. COEN-CEIBS WITH DRIVEWAY. X. SECTION
OF WESTERN CORN-CRIB.
SUBURBAN CARRIAGE -HOUSE AND STABLE.
I. Grouping Farm Buildings.
^|||HE barn will often contain the granary, sometimes the horse-stable, and perhaps,
^^^ even the cow-stable. By this arrangement, there is saving in the original cost
A of the barn-yard buildings, with the further advantage, that the feed is always
* at hand. On larger farms, the same plan, is in a measure, followed. There
may be separate buildings for each kind of domestic animal, for horses, for
cattle, for sheep and for swine, but each of these should contain a supply of the
necessary food. Some of the most complete barns have the stables for cattle in the
[414]
Diagrams showing the Estimated Total Value and Total
Number of each kind of Live Stock in the
United States in January, 1882.
(LATEST OFFICIAL STATEMENTS.)
VAirE
Mules
130,945,378
Milch Cows
■■^■^^^^^"^^B
^
325,488,310
Oxen ai^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^M
^^^■3,079,499
Sheep
Hogs
106,595,954
i^^^^^^^H
263,543,196
NUMBER
Horses
Mules
^^^^^^^^^^H
1,835,166
Milch Cows
1 M 12,611,632
Oxen and other Catfl^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H
Sheep 46,016,324'
Hogs ^^■^HIHIJ^b""" ' ' ' ' ^^^L. 'i^A^.^OO
BARNS, STABLES AND CORN-CRIBS.
415
basement, the horse-stables on the main floor, mills for grinding feed, cutters for hay
and straw, pulping machines for roots, and the silos connected with the barn by a
covered passage. There should also be a steam engine, for driving the machinery
and for pumping water, when this cannot be brought in pipes from higher ground.
This is true economy, however many structures may be needed for surplus produce.
416 THE HOJIE AXD FARM iIA>fUAL.
II. A Complete Cattle-Feeding Barn.
This is especially adapted to farmers keeping a large herd of milch cows, but it
may be modified to serve a variety of purposes. It gives economy of sj^ace and ease
THE STABLE FLOOR.
in feeding, since all the operations, including pumping of water and grinding feed,
are carried on under one roof. The engine-house and mill are shown in the illustra-
tion on page 415, connected with the barn. The mill would be better, especially
in case of fire, if separated from the barn. The stock is kept in the warm, well-
HORSE AND COW BARN.
lighted basement. The distinguishing feature of the plan is the free use of tramways
for moving feed, chutes for conveying forage from the lofts above, and the arrange-
ments for grinding feed. There are also silos for the preservation of green forage.
The barn is 96x56 feet, and the mill 24x20 feet. The barn will stable 120 cattle,'
the upper portion being used for storing fodder, that is delivered below, cut or uncut,
through appropriate chutes.
BAENS, STABLES AND COEN-CRIBS. 417
The Stable Floor.— In this plan S S S S are the stalls for cattle ; M M M M,
GROUND PLAN OF BAEN AND SHEDS.
If it
mangers; Mt Mt Mt, manure spaces; A A, tramways, and St switch track,
is desired to stable the cattle on the
floor above, the cellar may be used
for manure, which may be dropped
down directly from the floor through
trap-doors. In this case the cellar (.
may be used for any number of swine.
A Modified Plan.— A modifi-
cation of the foregoing plan, where
fewer cows are to be fed, is shown ''
where only the center is used, having
shed-room outside. A is the alley;
B, stall floors; C, ditch or drop for
manure; D, walk; E, stanchions; ®
F, outside sheds ; G, pieces of stone
2x4 feet; H, column under cross-
sills of barn ; (x',, doors ; XIX, win- g
dows.
III. Horse and Cow Barn, -with Shed.
This barn has features that may
commend it to a class of suburban
folks, partly farmers and partly
business men, especially those who like to keep a small herd of Jersey or other milk-
27
BAEN BASEMENT.
418
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
ing COWS. It provides for a sleeping-room for the man who has charge of the stable.
With some changes it will do for horse-keepers, or for a barn for a country hotel.
It contains all necessary fixtures, including open shed, wagon shed, tool-room,
feed-bins, water, harness room, etc.
The Ground Plan. — In the plan, page 417, A is the stable, 8x28 feet, for
nine cows; B, man's-room; C, carriage-room; D, harness-room; E, bin for bran or
shorts; F, shelled corn; G, oats; H, passage-way; I, passage to platform floor; J,
open shed, 10x14 ; K, platform floor, with pump at end; L, box for mixing feed;
M, stairs to loft; X to R, horse-stalls; S, passage behind stalls; T, shed for cattle;
U, feed-trough; V, feed-trough to horse-shed; W,
X, wagon-shed; Y, tool-room; Z, feed-troughs in
cattle-stalls; W T, watering-trough; d, doors; w,
windows.
Peed-Boxes. — In all sheds and cattle-yards
there should be appropriate feed-boxes. The plan
of the one shown in the illustration is old, but we
have never seen one better. The especial value of
this form of box is that four animals can feed from
it at once, and being on different sides, are not dis-
posed to quarrel . The posts are 3x3 inch hard-wood
scantling, and the boards are nailed solidly, prefer-
ably, with ten-penny fence nails.
FEED-BOX.
IV. Suburban Oarriage-House and Stable.
The illustration on page 414, shows a carriage-house in center of the building,
with horse-staUs in one wing, and cattle-stalls in the other, and contains ample room
Fig. 1.
SHEEP BARN AND SHIIDS.
overhead for fodder and grain, delivered below through chutes and tubes. The
small door is the entrance to the stables. If the room is not desired in the other
wing for cows, it may be converted into a tool-house and work-shop. The interior
BAKNS, STABLES AND CORN-CRIBS.
419
arrangement will readily suggest itself from an examination of the other plans of
stables given.
Wagon Jack. — Every farm-barn or stable should
have some means of lifting an axle-tree without hunt-
ing for a rail and support. They may be readily
bought, but Fig. 2 shows a simple and effective one
Fig. 2.
WAGON JACK.
that any farmer can make for himself. If, how-
ever, you prefer a better one, purchase one such as
is illustrated in Fig. 1. It will lift a heavy axle.
Fig. 1.
IMPROVED WAGON JACK.
V. Sheep Barns and their Arrangement.
■ It is well known that sheep will not bear close and constant confinement like
cattle. They must have not only exercise, but plenty of air. Their natural
D
E
B
RACK
^
RACK
a
D
■ PLAN or SHEEP BARN AND YARDS. Fig. 1.
SHEEP-DIPPING BOX
habitat is in mountain regions, where the air is bracing. In the care of sheep
this must always be kept in mind. Hence, sheep-barns must have an abun-
dance of ventilation, with large yards attached for exercise when the weather is
4-20
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
ao
ci\
c II
e f
r-4
d 1=^ a
favorable. In fact, their fleeces amply protect them from extreme cold when not
exposed to storms. In all mild climates they thrive better under open, protected
sheds. The mutton breeds, and especially the long-wooled breeds, and more espe-
cially the New Leicester, require better protection than the hardy American Merino.
In the North, and always in the Northwest, sheep barns are essential. Yet sheep
barns are simple structures that any carpenter should be able to build from the plans
we present. The plan. Fig. 2, is the most complete; and plan. Fig. 1, more simple.
Protection by timber belts is a
feature of the first, and should be **
carried out in all structures for
animals.
Ground Plans. — The plan.
Fig. 2, shows at a, a, a, a, stables
20x40 feet each; h, b, watering
tubs; c, c, c, doors in partitions;
d, d, d, d, sheep yards. The two
central yards are inside the barn,
and amply ventilated by wickets ;
they are 30x50 feet each. The
outer yards are 30x60 feet each.
All the yards should contain racks
such as are shown in the illustra-
tion. The water is carried into
the barn at e, and distributed
thence io f, f, and b, b, by pipes,
each trough or tub supplying two yards. A yard 40x40 will accommodate 150 sheep
if they have plenty of ventilation, but racks must be placed all round the outside.
The plan. Fig. 1, comprises a cen-
tral barn : A, for hay, with bins for
grain in the upper part, delivered into
the yards by tubes, as is the hay by
chutes. The barn stands upon abut-
ments of stone, giving space under-
neath for a sheep-run. The barn proper,
shown at A, is a balloon frame, 24x60
feet; B B, are sheds', 18x60 feet, with
racks and feed boxes; D D D D, are
doors, ten feet wide, to admit a team and wagon; C C C C, are windows, hung on
hinges, for ventilation; E E, are small slide doors, to open into^ yards outside the
sheds. The outer posts of the sheds are 4x4 inches and 8 feet long, the roof extending
from the roof to meet them.
Sheep-Dipping Box. — No sheep bam is complete without some means of dip-
Fig. 2.
GEOIIND PLAN OF SHEEP BAEN AND YARDS.
V^ t\ ^ ^ ^ tM\ 1\\^^. ^t\T.t^t\ 1\ «v
SHEEP RACK FOR OPEN YARD.
BARNS, ^TABLES AND CORN-CRIBS.
421
ping sheep, and especially lambs, in tobacco water or other medicated mixture, to
free them from ticks, etc. The illustration shows a simple, easily-made apparatus,
with dipping slats, that may be constructed by any farmer who can make a water-
tight box. When the box becomes leaky, paint it thickly on the inside with water
lime.
VI. Hog Barns.
"When few hogs are kept, and especially in the great cattle-feeding districts,
where hogs follow the stock as gleaners, the protection for swine is usually only such
as may afford shelter while the animals are at rest. Where swine are kept in per-
21 _.
22 _.
23 ..
24
I
)
12
1
II
10
9
r 3'
— i^-
3B
1 1 1
1
5
6
7
8
SQUARE HOG BARN, WITH. EXTENDED WINGS.
manent stables, and especially where they are fed on ground food, steaming or other
cooking apparatus must be provided, with suitable conveniences for feeding. How-
ever small the number kept, there must be feeding pens and sleeping apartments with
yards attached, and the pens must be regularly cleaned. Where not too many hogs
are kept the ground floor of an extensive hog-feeding barn may be used.
The floor plan shows a square building of two stories, with pens in a lean-to, as
represented in the square A, and pens 34-33, 36-35, 37 and 38. The boiler is at B.
There is an upper story for corn, meal and other feed, delivered below by tubes.
422
THE HOME AND FARM l^ANUAL.
Where a large number of hogs are kept the space for pens and yards may be extended
indefinitely. In this case, the pens 37 and 38 may also form part of the floor of the
main building, which comprises also pens 33, 34,' 35 and 36, these being used as boar
pens, or for hospital service. The main building must be ventilated by a shaft
running through the second-floor to the apex of the building at the center, which has
a hipped roof. The pens in extensions, covered by span-roofs, each have a passage-
way leading to sleeping apartment outside, and thence into yards. D D D D
represent alleys five feet wide for the feed wagon, which is placed upon low iron
wheels, the forward ones of which turn completely under, so the vehicle may be turned
round in its own length.
VII. Granaries, Corn-Houses and Corn-Cribs.
The typical corn-crib of new countries is simply a pen of rails carried up ten
feet. It may be either square or flared toward the top ; it generally has only a rail
floor and is often left entirely open to the rain oq top. This certainly is a wretched
way to keep corn, when the first intelligent thought would suggest a covering of rails
and hay. A step in advance
would be something like the illus-
tration, which, only carried up
seven feet, may be extended nine
or ten feet.
Such a crib six feet wide will
keep corn as well as the best, and
will be secure from rats and mice
if an inverted pan, or flat stone
is placed on top of the posts, next
the crib, the posts being two feet
high. If the corn is not dry when put in it may mould in a six feet crib in open
moist winters. This may be prevented even in cribs nine feet wide — a not unusual
width for the great store cribs of the West — by placing a ^-shaped ventilator four
feet wide at the bottom and half the height of the crib, running to an apex at the
top. This is made of five-inch fence boards, with spaces of five or six inches; and
very little corn will drop through. It gives a free passage of air from end to end,
and circulating through the corn above. We once saved a crop of many thousands
of bushels, in Central Illinois, in cribs ten feet wide in this way, and during a winter
when large quantities of corn were lost in cribs eight and nine feet wide, the open
moist weather extending into March.
Vni. Rat-Proof Granary and Oorn-Orib.
Every farm should have a rat-proof granary and corn-crib combined, for keeping
grain, and there should be separate bins for seed-corn and seed-grains, with hooks for
hanging bags of the smaller seeds. We give a plan for ventilated granary, with
COEN-CEIB OF POLES.
BARNS, STABLES AND CORN-CRIBS.
423
explanations, and with description of a modification which we used, when engaged in
active farming.
The building is 24x18 feet long, with 14-feet posts, which extend two feet below
the first floor, resting on stone piers, as shown, and protected from rats by galvanized
iron plates between the posts and floor. The studs are two feet apart, set 1^ inches
inside of the face of the sills and posts, with strips of plank 2x3, with notches cut in
them, upon which siding is nailed horizontally, and pitching down to shed rain. The
first story has a height of seven feet between floors. The granary is in the center of
this story and is made of matched flooring six feet wide by eighteen feet long, and
■ extending through the upper floor three feet into the second floor ; it is divided into
appropriate bins for wheat, oats and barley, with doors on top for emptying in grain,
VENTILATED GEANABY.
and trajis below for delivering it. Above these main bins are separate bins, four feet
wide, extending nearly to the peak, and properly divided for seed-grains, with chutes
for delivery. There is a passage-way three feet wide all around the grain-bins, leav-
ing space for corn-crib three feet wide around the outside, flared to four and a half
feet when it meets the platform of the second story, and thence carried up square.
This narrow crib is divided for containing selected seed-corn according to varieties,
and the wall space is used for any purpose required, as for. hanging bags of smaller
seeds.
Another plan. Fig. 1, 20x14 feet is entirely occupied as a granary, except the
enclosed stairway and door. Two bins are shown, 10x14 feet each, which may be
divided in two. The grain is elevated into the second story, and taken out of traps on
the outside of the building.
The next plan. Fig. 2, shows combined corn-crib and granary, the inside walls
424
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
sloping inward to meet at the second floor ten feet high, the loft being used wholly
for corn except a passage-way around the granary, C, 5j^xl5 feet. C, 4^^x20, is
corn-crib ; H is hall, and 3 is a large window for light and ventilation, with door at
opposite end.
^
lU X 14
■ B
10 X 14
1
,.
Fig. 1.
GROUND PLAN OF GRANARY.
c
4» X
20
1
3
H
5 X
20
C
5& X. 15
Fig. 2.
COENCEIB AND GRANARY.
IX. Corn-Cribs with Drive-Ways.
Many farmers who raise comparatively little corn build enclosed corn-cribs, into
which wagons may be driven. The figure. Skeleton of Crib, will explain itself and
SKELETON OP CRIB.
CRIB, EXTENDED INWARD.
also show the manner of framing. It would be more roomy and in no wise interfere
with driving space if the inside also were flared, as shown in the next figure, which
also explains itself.
We do not recommend either of these. They are harborers of rats and mice,
which enter from the wagons left standing under them. They are given more to
show incorrect ideas of economy, and as such are good object lessons.
BAKNS, STABLES AND COEN-CEIBS.
425
X. Section of Western Corn-crib.
The last illustration in this chapter represents the form of crib generally used
in the great corn-growing region of the West. They may be seen of this form, the
correct one, but oftener with
straight sides, all over the West,
and of varying length up to one
hundred feet. Sometimes row
after row of them are seen with
passages between for wagons.
There is usually no attempt
made to keep out rats and mice,
which freely swarm about and
within them, affording sport for
boys with their ratting dogs.
When a permanent building of
any kind is decided on it should
be built on correct principles.
A sheet of galvanized iron be-
tween the posts, thirty inches
above ground and the floor of the crib, will be ample protection from rats. Hence
we have simply shown the proper form which gives the greatest capacity and ventila-
tion with the best protection from rain, admissible in cribs for corn.
WESTERN COBN-CEIB.
CHAPTER V.
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM.
I. THE FAEM WOEKSHOP. II. MECHANICS' TOOLS ON THE FARM. III. ARRANGEMENT AND CARE
OF TOOLS. IV. HOW TO KEEP FARM IMPLEMENTS. ^V. SHARPENING TOOLS. VI. PROPER WAY
TO FILE AN IMPLEMENT. VII REPAIRING COMMON IMPLEME.STS. ^VIII. THE FARM PAINT
SHOP. ^IX. PUTTING UP ROUGH BUILDINGS. X. SHINGLING A ROOF XI. MAKING A HAY-
RACK XII. STONE FENCES. XIII. MOVING HEAVY STONES.— »IV. FOR AND AGAINST STO.NE -
WALLS. XV. HOW TO BUILD THE WALL. XVL THE BALLOON FRAME IN BUILDING. XVII.
HOW TO BUILD THE FRAME.
I. The Farm Workshop.
IHf ACH farmer must decide for himself how much purely mechanical work it will
ilpi repay him to perform or have done on the farm. Where population is dense,
1?^ the division of labor must necessarily be more minute than where it is scattered.
Hence, in thickly settled districts, the farmer may find it cheaper to buy
everything he does not grow on the farm rather than make it himself. On large
estates there are generally carpenters, a blacksmith, and other artizans hired by the
year; often a book-keeper, engineer and miller are required, until at Is^st these
employes, together with the farm laborers proper, and their families, form the
nucleus of a village. We have seen all this happen in Illinois, and once on a farm
of less than 3,000 acres. In the South, on some of the large estates, especially on
sugar plantations, where the crop must be manufactured, and, in the North, where-
ever sorghum is produced in large quantities, it will repay the planter to do much of
the repairing at home.
In thinly settled districts the farmer should himself know how to do simple
repairing. Making rails and posts and fitting them for use, is strictly a mechanical
art, yet on timbered farms this is also a part of the necessary farm labor. On every
farm some fencing is always to be done ; there are gates to be made and hung, and
rough sheds to be put up. The repair of the ordinary tools used is a natural appli-
cation of mechanics to agriculture. The tightening, and even fitting, of horse-shoes,
is often important. This only requires dexterity and observation to render its
performance easy ; and the same may be said of simple repairs to iron-work.
If skilled labor is near it will be cheaper, as a rule, to hire mechanics for all
important repairs; yet every farmer should have some simple tools and a workshop.
Many needed mendings and changes may be done at times unfitted for out-door labor.
If the workshop be kept supplied with the necessary materials for such work there is
little time that may not be profitably employed by those necessary to work the farm.
[426]
Diagrams showing the Value and Quantities of Beef, Hog
Product, Butter and Cheese Exported from the United
States during the Year ending June 30, 1882.
(LATEST OFFICIAL STATEMENTS.)
VALUE
28,975,902
2,864i'670
114,068,975
POUNDS
115,486'203
80;447,466
Beef
II
^■JM
Pork
Bacon, and Hams
.' M
468,026,640
^^^^^^^1
■
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^1
Butter
14;794,305
CKeese
R-^.'
;f'^
127,089,782
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM.
II. Mechanics' Tools on the Farm.
427
The necessary tools are chopping-axes, hatchets, hammers, a broad-axe, grind-
stone, an oil-stone, augers from one inch to two inches, a brace and bits, a set of
chisels, rip-saw, one or more cross-cut saws, a tenon saw, square, a spirit-level, two-
A FAMILY SET OF TOOLS.
foot rule, tape-line, dividers, jack-plane, jointer and smoothing-plane, screw-driver,
awls, a drawing-knife, a vise to hold boards and one for holding iron implements, a
set of files for wood and one for iron work, an iron "claw," sand-paper, wire, and
an assortment of nails, a few of which should be of wrought-iron to be used in
clamping, screws and lumber. With these all simple repairs may be made at home.
428
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
With perseverance the necessary skill will soon come, and there are many
things to be done, that take less time in the doing, than would the sending for a
skilled workman. Thus, certain mechanical work is as necessary for the farmer to
know how to do as to plow or reap. A shed or lean-to is to be built. It may be
done at times when the land is unfit for working. A door is out of level; in ten
minutes it may be rehung. Windows pinch or become loose in their fittings ; it is
the work of a few minutes to remedy the defect. A broken pane of glass, either in
house or outbuilding, may, if one depends entirely upon mechanics, be a serious
matter, yet with a putty-knife, a little putty, a few glazier's tins, and the necessary
ONE END OF TOOL-HOUSE.
glass, which should always be kept on hand, the loss can easily be made right. The
wife requires a bench for the washing-tub ; a stool, or a light box, for covering and
stuffing to form an ornamental piece of furniture. They are made almost while
they are being talked about. Harness may be mended. The irons from a broken
whipple-tree or other implement, may be fitted to a new wood. Eustic structures
may be made, and valuable work done, from time to time — even an important
building, under direction of a regular builder. To accomplish all this successfully,
tools must be kept in perfect order, and not be lent, except to those who know how
to use them, and such persons generally have their own. A neighbor may, perhaps,
think it hard to be denied ; he may prefer to use your bright, sharp tools in place of
his rusty and dull ones. Why should he not take care of his own tools?
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FAKM.
III. Arrangement and Care of Tools.
429
There should be a place for every tool and every tool should be in its place.
Such tools as will not easily rust may be arranged on the wall over and around the
work-bench, but all tools with bright surfaces, as saws, chisels, etc., unless inside a
case, should be kept in a chest, in their appropriate niches, and if not to be used
for some time, lightly oiled when put away. Thus kept, the implements are always
bright, only requiring to be wiped for use, when wanted.
Our cuts illustrative of tool-keeping are: first, an inside view of closet for
the simple tools necessary for the farmer of few acres, as shown in the cut entitled,
" A Family Set of Tools," and also the four walls of a complete tool-house attached
SECOND END OP TOOL-HOUSE.
to a work-shop, 30 x 14 feet, and which is now in use upon a farm of 2,400 acres in
IlUnois. This contains all the minor hand tools and implements required by the
farmer. See pages 427 — 431.
IV. How to Keep Farm Implements.
All farm implements should be kept under cover and cared for when not in use.
The mowing machine, reaper, plows and all other implements having bright surfaces,
should have these covered with a mixture of kerosene and lampblack, when put away.
430 HOME AND FARIT MANUAL.
It is easily rubbed off when they are again wanted, and the surfaces thuss retain their
polish. When left in the field over night they should be rubbed with an oiled cloth.
O
H
a
O
1^
o
c
t-
c
a
o
w
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM.
^
431
Only pure oil, unsalted,, should be used. A pint will last long and save many dollars.
4S2 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
You will be surprised, on trial, how small a space is really required to store all
tools and small farm implements from the weather. An open shed will do for wagons,
sleds, harrows, and that class of machinery ; but a closed room is necessary for plows
and other implements having bright surfaces. If they are exposed under an unen-
closed roof the moisture of the atmosphere is apt to rust them in damp weather, to
say nothing of injury from dust and the danger that they will be stolen by night
prowlers while the farmer is asleep.
In this day of improved implements successful farming cannot be carried on
without perfect tools and implements. They cost much money; with care they wear
a long time ; without care their hfe is short. The abuse of implements costs ten times
their wear. A wise man looks to economy. Study the object-lessons presented, and
learn to economize by care. When first a tool is properly hung on the wall, as repre-
sented, outline its form with paint; or, bettfer, paste up its name clearly written. It
will save time in properly replacing them.
V. Sharpening Tools.
There is no excuse for dull tools. A file will keep the plowshares and cultiva-
tors sharp. A grindstone and whetstone will keep the mower and reaper sickles in
order. Steel teeth wear much longer in a harrow than iron ones, and are as easily
repointed ; the first costis not much more, and a dull harrow means lost time. Carry
I IMPEOVED SAW-SET.
out this principle in your purchase and use of tools and implements, and it will save
you fully twenty-five per cent in wear and tear of implements and teams, besides
bettering the quality of the work done. This large percentage is clear profit .
How to sharpen tools is another question. It can be told only in general terms,
the detail must be learned by practice, but is not difficult. In grinding a surface, as
that of an axe, the cutting part must be beveled off regularly and equallj% and the
edge then whetted on a stone until keen. A broad axe or chisel is ground from one
side only, thus preserving the bevels; it is then simply " faced " on the side contain-
ing the steel. In fine, every tool should be ground according to its structure. Form-
erly, scythes were all ground upon one side. The best are now made to grind on
both sides alike, and when so, it is stated on the tool.
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FAKAI.
433
A SAW CLAMP.
VI. Prop6r Way to File an Implement.
In filing always do the cutting by thrusting the file from you. In the reverse
motion it should not press the tool, because this cuts the edge of the file. In filing
a saw preserve the form of the teeth. A
cross-cut (hand-saw for cutting across the
grain of the wood) is filed diagonally; a
rip-saw, more nearly square across. The
form of the teeth, it will also be observed,
is quite different in the two. There is no
mystery in filing. It is simply a question of
accuracy. In saws every alternate tooth is
to be filed in one direction, and every other
tooth in another; observation will easily
show this. A spade or shovel is edged from
the front ; a plowshare is filed from the up-
per side, and, as a rule, the shares of culti-
vators from the bottom. The wear will show when this is not correct. A hoe is filed
from the bottom, and tools for edging and paring garden-walks filed or ground on
both sides alike. These general rules will enable any farm-hand to acquire the
necessary skill, and this will be worth many dollars yearly in wages. It is skilled
labor, and skilled labor always commands an extra price. On the farm the manner
of holding a tool of any kind for filing must be arranged according to the conveni-
ences. In filing saws, they must be held from springing, else they cannot be filed
correctly. They must also be set true. Hence we illustrate a clamp for holding,
and a simple and perfect implement for setting the teeth true.
VII. Repairing' Common Implements.
We have said that the farmer should have a supply of lumber, which must
always be kept perfectly dry. Handles for tools, wagon tongues, and various fixtures
can be bought, either ready-made or sawed in the rough. They should be kept on
hand, then the work of fitting is often less than that of going to the shop. You have
your work-bench fitted with vise and claw, for holding the wood to be worked. A
taper bit, or a larger and a smaller bit will form the hole to receive the hasp of a rake,
fork, etc. The drawing knife, a bit
of glass and sand-paper will fit the end
for the ferule (see Singletree). It is
the work of perhaps ten minutes. A
wagon tongue is worked to proper
shape, and the irons of the broken
one fitted, and so with the addition of
a little paint you have a wagon tongue as good as new.
Let us illustrate here in a single direction. An ox-chain is broken. You are in
28
NEWLY- WOODED SINGLETREE.
434
HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
the woods, far from the shop. You put in a wooden toggle to last home. You have
open links, that you bought of your
hardware me^'chant. The chain is
mended quicker than it has taken to
tell.
Exercising Ingenxiity, — The
exercise of a little ingenuity will enable
the farmer's boy, after he gets used to
handling tools, to alter and construct
many articles of comfort and use.
^T,r,„ , ^T,^ The cut shows the seat and rails of a
OPEN LINK.
common wood-bottomed arm chair,
grafted on a stand with a drawer in the bottom to hold blacking brushes or any object
THE AEM-CHAIR CLOSED.
THE AEM-CHAIR TURNED BACK.
of that kind. It may hold small implements for
mending many things about the farm, as riveting
hammers, awls, etc. Here, again, we illustrate a very useful device for trapping
ground moles that may be easily constructed.
The sharp spikes fall right upon each side of the
narrow portion of the trap. The trigger is
also represented by itself, showing the handle
passing into the run- way of the mole, and the
pressure of the animal in burrowing underneath
forces the trigger up, which 'allows the top
board, hinged at the back, and pretty heavily
weighted, to fall, and the mole is pierced with
the spikes. It is about the only sure trap for
moles, which work under ground entirely, and
besides being useful as an exterminator of these pests of the farmer, will afford
employment for the boys during leisure hours.
VIII. The Farm Paint-Shop.
Time and money can be saved by having paints and brushes. They are now
MOLE TRAP.
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM.
435
PAINT-BEUSH— BEST.
sold by dealers, in quantities to suit, ready mixed and colored, requiring only a little
oil or turpentine for use. Buy only pure lead and oil,
except for fences and rough buildings. There the better
class of the mineral paints may serve. Adulteration is
nowadays most shameless, and in none more
flagrant than in paints. If you buy your
paint or your brushes of a respectable man-
ufacturer or dealer under the guarantee that
it is pure, it should be good. It will cost
you more than an inferior article, but the
best is always the cheapest in the end. If
/ Jfc If I ' '"ffl|| ' 1 a package of paint is not all used up it may
|]H ll I I |i III J be saved intact by covering it with linseed
oil and closing tight. Brushes may be kepi
from day to day in cold water. When the
job is done clean them thoroughly in turpen-
tine, dry, and hang in a dry place so the
bristles may point downward. For the
farm a brush two inches in diameter, one an
inch in diameter, and a sash brush will be
sufficient. Brownish red is the best general
color for implements requiring paint.
IX. Putting up Rough Buildings.
framing
In making rough buildings very little ^^^
is necessary. Nails and proper
bracing will hold the building together. Studding set squarely on sills and toed fast
by driving nails diagonally through the studding and into the sills, with blocking
nailed around them, is stronger than mortising, for rough buildings. Each one must
SECTION OF ADJUSTABLE PLUMB AND LEVEL,
be in exact line, set vertical (with a plumb and level — see cut), made fast and held
so. The floor joists are made level by means of a long straight strip (straight-edge)
and a carpenter's level. If an upper floor is necessary, they are laid upon stringers
436 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
firmly nailed to the studding. The flooring must be firmly driven together, by
placing a block of wood against the edge of each successive boai'd, and driving
against it. When driven firm, nail. Sheathing should be nailed to the studding
before the clapboards are put on, unless the boards are to be placed vertically. In
this case, strips must extend across the studding, upon which to nail the vertical
boarding. Then cut out the windows and doors, unless these have been previously
cased in. The roof, as a rule, should be one-quarter pitch, and sheathed over the
rafters to receive the shingles. (See chapters relating to Building.)
X. Shingling a Roof.
MorE" persons fail in shingling a roof than in other rough building work, yet it
is really verj- simple. If you begin at the top of the roof to shingle, you will not be
the first man who has done so. But don't ! Always begin at the bottom. Break
the joints by laying the center of a shingle over the crack of two others, or a wide
shingle to cover the cracks of narrow shingles. The rafters should be laid level; the
shingles laid with not more than one-quarter of their length exposed to the weather,
and nailed above the lap. Very wide shingles have three nails, the average, two, and
very narrow shingles one nail each.
Each line of shingles must be laid true to the line, one with the others, the lower
course being laid about two inches over the ■ edge of the lower sheathing board.
The details of shingling are as follows : Stretch a line at the proper distance beyond
the lower roof-board, lay the butts of the first course of shingles to this line, narrow
and wide, just as they come, discarding such as are shaky, wormy or rotten. This
course laid, stretch the re-chalked line along the row of shingles the proper number of
inches above the lower edge, draw it tight, snap it, and you have the mark for the
next course. Nail on this course, always having a shingle cover a crack by at least
one inch. So proceed, course by course, moving your foot-rest up the roof when
you can no longer nail from the scaffold on the side. When you have reached the
peak, saw the last shingles square with the slope of the other roof. Shingle the
other side, saw these off fair, cover the peak with two strips, nicely jointed together,
and the roof will be as good as the best.
XI. Making a Hay- Rack.
Let a carpenter make one with iron bolts, if you can afford it. If not, one as
strong as the best, if not so handsome, is easily made by laying two 2x8 inch joists,
twelve feet six inches long, on the bed-pieces of the wagon ; across these lay three
,2x4 inch scantling; mark the bottom pieces so these three scantlings may be let into
the joists the depth of one inch. The marks should be, one six inches from the front
end, one in the middle, and one at six inches from the rear. The scantlings which
should be seven feet long, are to be then securely pinned or bolted to the bed-pieces ;
along the outside of the scantling securely nail a board six inches wide, one inch
thick, and inside of where the hind wheels come, nail another four inch wide board.
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM. 437
Over the hind wheels form an arch and cover it with slats; nail a cross-piece front
and rear, put a " ladder " in front six feet high, and with three rungs, playing on a
roller through the bed-piece, so it may be turned down. This rack or ladder — as a
hay or grain rack is sometimes called — will hold all that two horses can draw, and
will be strong; how handsome it is will depend upon- the skill of the builder.
XII. Stone Fences.
Fencing with stone walls is not to be advised in any case, except when it is
absolutely necessary to remove the stones from the land. In some hill regions of the
United States, the quantity of loose stone in the soil is a most serious obstacle to
cultivation. The stones must be gotten rid of; they are a nuisance piled in the field,
and are too heavy to haul long distances. In such cases it may be economy to form
them into stone walls. The stones of fields are generally those called boulders.
That is, stones that have been more or less worn by abrasion in being moved about
by the forces of nature. They are of all sizes, from a man's fist to those weighing
tons. The larger ones must be reduced by blasting or other cleavage, or buried in
pits dug so deep as to take the stone below the possible reach of the plow.
XIII. Moving Heavy Stones.
Anything from the size of a man's head or somewhat less to those two men can
lift may be laid into a wall, and the larger ones that can be moved by oxen and a
stone boat, may form the foundation. The stones may be rolled onto the boat and
also into their places in the foundation wall, by means of a rolling or sliding hitch of
a chain. Anything that one or two pair of
oxen can move, may be accomplished by pass-
ing a chain around the stone and over the hook,
so the hook comes next the ground, or better,
partly under the stone. The rolling hitch is
made by passing the chain once or more around
the stone and then over the hook — in this case
SIMPLEST FORM OF STONE BOAT. ■ , , , .
the hook being next the ground on the side
farthest from the team. Thus the chain will form a purchase, identical with the same
hitch in roUing logs. The reason why oxen are better than horses is they move
slowly and steadily, and will generally continue a pulling strain longer than horses or
mules, unless the horses have been specially trained for the purpose. Oxen also come
about more readily, and there is not the hamper of whipple-trees and harness.
XIV. For and Against Stone Walls.
About the only argument that can be made in favor of stone walls for fencing
is, that if well laid they last forever. The next is that if stones cumber the soil to
the serious detriment of cultivation they can thus be made useful when removed.
On the other hand, they require skill in laying. They occupy more land than even a
Virginia worm-fence. They harbor the roots of weeds and noxious plants, difficult to
438 HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
exterminate, and if not laid in the best manner they are constantly falling down.
Hence the argument narrowed down to this, is : If you have stony fields, and the
distance prevents their hauling to some ravine or other waste place where they may
be dumped, they may be laid into a wall. In the New England and other rocky
Eastern States, stone walls, many of them built a century ago, are being torn down
and carted away. The land is too valuable now to permit their continuance. There
is but little land between the Alleghenies and the Rocky mountains where it is neces-
sary to build walls to get rid of the stone. In the mountain regions of the Far West
the value of the land will eventually cause the walls that are already built to be torn
down. Hence, again, the warning we give to fully discuss the economy before build-
ing. The stone will some time be valuable in forming roads, concrete and other
foundations for buildings, and possibly even for the walls of rough buildings them-
selves.
XV. How to Build the Wall.
1. The foundation must be on solid earth to prevent heaving. On gravel or
firm sand it may be quite near the surface ; otherwise it must rest on the subsoil.
2. The foundation stones, or ".at least those lying contiguous to each other,
should be of nearly the same size, and should extend the full width of the wall. If
the boulders are rough and of uneven size, lay the roughest side down, so that the
flattest side may come up, on which to lay the first course.
3. If the stones are so small that more than one course is required to form the
wall, they must be tied together at short intervals with stone reaching through the
wall. If not, pieces of hard, lasting wood, not less than one by two inches in thick-
ness, may be used for this purpose.
4. The wall must be laid in any event so as to break joints. If this is not
carefully observed the wall will certainly fall.
5. Small stones must never be chinked into the face of the wall, and this face
must be carried up fair and square, or with a slight but perfectly equal gradient.
6. If the wall is let to be made by contract, see that the contractor understands
his work and does it properly. A man may not know how to lay a wall, and yet by
studying the rules we have laid down may be perfectly competent to decide whether
it is properly laid.
7. In making the contract be certain that the stipulations embrace all the points
you wish carried out, and then do not alter it. It is extras that enable all con-
tractors to make big profits in any work, since for this they can charge arbitrary
prices.
XVI. The Balloon Frame in Building.
The balloon frame is essentially an American institution, and has been an impor-
tant factor in developing the prairie regions of the West, the Pacific Slope, and all
the country lying between. These frames are strong, cannot be torn apart by the
wind, and are cheap.
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FAEM.
439
The late Solon Eobinson, from whom we received many early ideas on agricul-
ture, who, as a resident of northern Indiana, witnessed the early development of that
portion of the West, and who, in the youth of the writer of this, used jocularly to call
him the " boy farmer," has truly observed: " If it had not been for the knowledge
of balloon frames, Chicago and San Francisco could never have risen, as they did,
from little villages to great cities in a single year."
Later, Mr. Geo. E. "Woodward, a celebrated architect and civil engineer, of New
York, said:" "The balloon frame belongs to no one person, nobody claims it as an
invention, and yet, in the art of construction it is one of the most sensible improve-
ments that has ever been made." It is one of those things gradually suggested by
the lack of heavy timbers, and has been found altogether superior to them, not only
for wooden dwellings, but also for barns, where great weight is not required to be
carried on the beams. The light pieces are not weakened by cutting. The bearings
are short, forming a continuous support for each piece from foundation to rafter. It
is braced in every direction naturally, and cut nails have proved not only cheaper but
stronger than mortise and tenon in braces, beams and other supporting parts of ordi-
nary wooden buildings.
XVII. How to Build the Frame.
Mr. "Woodward sums up the advantages of balloon, or basket frames, as follows:
1 . The whole labor of framing is dis-
pensed with.
2. It is a far cheaper frame to raise.
3. It is stronger and more durable than
any other frame.
4. It is adapted to any style of -build-
ing, and better adapted to all irregular forms.
5. It is forty per cent cheaper than any
other known style of frame.
6. It embraces strength, security, com-
fort and economy, and can be put up without
the aid of a mechanic. The two last items
are of especial value. The latter particularly
so, where skilled labor is difficult to get.
Mr., "Woodward gives the following plain
directions :
"We hear and read much about the policy
of cutting mortises, tenons, gains, etc., in
the various pieces which go to make up the
balloon frame. It is our opinion, based upon
a long and thoroughly practical experience,
that he who does much of this will have some misspent time to account for hereafter,
besides weakening his building and hastening the decay of his frame.
ONE -STORY FRAJIE.
440
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
DIAGONAL LINING, OUTSIDE AND IN.
1. A line must be cut in the studding for the side girt, unless the dwelling be
lined. Gains are sometimes cut in floor joists
for the purpose of locking them over partitions
that run through the height of the building.
Eafters projecting over the sides should be
notched, to give them foothold on the plate.
These causes would, as a general thing, consti-
tute all the cutting necessary.
2. In building houses one and a half story
high, never cut a gain for the side girt, on
which to rest the upper story floor joists, unless
the thrust of the roof be well guarded against
by secure collar beams. We prefer, when we
cut this gain, to use studding one inch wider
for the sides. When the building is lined, the
side girt rests on top of the lining, and no cut-
ting is necessary.
3. Unplastered buildings of a moderate
size are strong enough if the girt be nailed
directly to the studding, without cutting the gain in recess.
4. Buildings of two full stories are abundantly strong with two by four studding
and gains cut in them for side girt ; the third floor ties the top of the studding, so
there is no yielding. The joists of the third floor should be placed upon the plate,
the ends beveled to the same pitch as the
rafters, and each joist nailed at both ends to
each rafter. He advises the building of the
second story full for a dwelling-house. It
gives more strength, more convenient room,
and the real difference in expense is practically
nothing, where the studding is more than five
feet high.
5. In story and a half buildings it is very
desirable that collars be put on securely, so as
to prevent any thrust of the rafters ; when the
side girt is -not gained in, as in small un-
plastered buildings, the collars may be nailed
or spiked to the rafter. If the side girt is
set into the studding, as it should be in a
plastered building not lined inside, it makes a
weak point in the studding, practically reducing
them from two by four to two by three, and
the collars should be put on in such a manner as to guard against any thrust whatever.
ISOTHEEMAL VIEW OF BALLOON FRAME,
AFTER WOODWAItD.
MECHANICS AS APPLIED TO THE FARM. 441
The size of the building and the judgment of the constructor will indicate the best
course to pursue. Buildings of one, two, or more full stories have no collars; the
joists of the upper floors tie the top of the building and take the thrust of the rafters.
In the usual mode of inside lining, one strip laps the stud. The ends of the lining
of the adjoining side are nailed to a strip fastened to the stud to receive them.
6. In the construction of a barn twenty-four by thirty, alternate studs on the
sides two by four and two by five are recommended, the side girt to be nailed to the
narrow stud and let one inch into the wide stud. When the studding is more than
five feet above the second floor of a barn, two or three tie-strips across the foot of
the rafter will make all snug. There should be tie or collar beams on all rafters.
Part V.
HORTICULTURK.
VAEIETIES AND CULTIVATION OF FEUITS, FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
THE PRACTICAL ART OF GRAFTING AND BUDDING.
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
COMMON SENSE TIMBER PLANTING.
INCLUDING
FISH AND FISH CULTURE.
HORTICULTURE.
CHAPTEE I.
ORCHARD. VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
1. THE FAEM OBCHARD AND GARDEN. II. AERANGBJIENT Or THE HOME OECHAED. III. HOW TO
PEEPAEE FOE AN OECHAED IV. LAYING OUT THE OECHAED jUSTD PLANTING. V. WHEN TO
BUY TREES AND WHEN TO PLANT THEM. VI. WHAT VARIETIES TO PLANT. — VII. APPLES, THEIR
CULTIVATION AND VARIETIES. VIII. PEAES, THEIE VARIETIES AND CULTIVATION. IX. THE
FORMS or FRUIT EXPLAINED. ^X. PEACHES. XI. NECTARINES. XII. THE CHERRY. XIII.
PICKING AND PACKING ORCHARD FRUITS XIV. THE SMALL FRUITS XV. THE VINEYARD.
XVI. THE GEAPES FOR FARMERS. XVII. CULTIVATION OF THE CEANBEEEY.
I. The Farm Orchard and Garden.
bT is a well-known fact that farmers as a class, especially in the West, are more
poorly supplied with fruit than the average townspeople. One reason is, an im-
pression prevails that the cultivation of fruit requires great care and attention,
and that the proper soil for fruit can be found only in certain districts. The same
may be said of the garden for vegetables. But if the farmer would give his orchard
and his garden the same attention that intelligent farmers give their stock and corn
fields, an abundance of fruits and vegetables might be had the year round at less than
half what the average citizen has to pay for them. The mistake made by farmers in
planting a home orchard, and especially in the arrangement of the vegetable garden,
is that they follow the directions of writers of fifty and a hundred years ago. They
should employ the same methods that they do in their corn fields — long rows and
horse cultivation — for all but the minor plants of the garden ; and for these improved
implements of hand-cultivation should be used. Clean cultivation is necessary in the
home orchard, for the orchard for home use must be separate and distinct, and its
management different from that of commercial orchardists.
II. Arrangement of the Home Orchard.
The small fruits and the vineyard may come in the same plot of ground and yet
give ample room for all. A plat of land about thirteen rods by twenty-five is just
five rods over two acres, and the shortest way across will enable most of the work to
be done by horse-power. By beginning at the farther end the larger trees, as apple,
pear, cherry, peach, plum, quince, etc., according as the climate and situation will
allow, may come in successive rows, to be followed by grapes, blackberries, raspber-
[445]
446
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
Ties, gooseberries, currants and strawberries. To make the farther part of the
orchard easily accessible, a pathway ten feet wide should remain unplanted through the
CANADA RErSETTE APPLE.
middle, which will not interfere with the cultivation, for no grass should be allowed
in the farm orchard. It must receive the same clean cultivation as the corn-field.
OKCHAED, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN. 447
Next the house may come the vegetable garden, divided by the same broad path,
TETOFSKY APPLE.
so that the cart, the wagon or the wheelbarrow may freely pass along from one side
448 HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
to the other; or a space sufficient for a "turn-row" to be left on each side would be
better; and, in that case, the turn-row may be permanently seeded down to grass or
clover, to be cut for soiling. Hence, there is no waste space left whatever, and there
are no weeds to seed, in any portion of the garden. In the space next the house, or
in the kitchen-garden proper, allot the most sheltered spot for a hot-bed, or a cold
frame, and also as a border for the early cultivation of some special crops, as cress,
radish, lettuce, plants of cabbage, cauliflower, etc., to be followed by egg-plant, lima
beans, okra and other heat-loving plants. Then the first spaces, next the small fruits,
may be devoted to pie-plant (rhubarb), aspai:agus, sage, tansy, mint and other
perennial plants, and the balance, commencing with crops requiring poling or staking,
sugar corn, early potatoes, etc.; the smaller annual crops may succeed each other.
Thus you may have what will not only make a pleasing feature of the homestead,
but also a plat of ground that may be cultivated at a minimum cost, and which wiU
turn out a maximum crop, if made rich enough with manure, and the soil is properly
cultivated.
It may be objected by some, that a row clear across such a patch of some varie-
ties of plants will not be needed. Suppose not, piece it out with some variety, requir-
ing the same space of row, always remembering to cramp nothing. Thus, if you
want half a row of raspberries, and the same of blackberries, let the width be that for
blackberries. Currants and gooseberries may be pieced out in the same manner. So
may the asparagus and rhubarb ; carrots and parsnip ; cabbage and cauliflower ; radish
and lettuce; dwarf beans and dwarf peas; muskmelon and cucumber; bush, or patty
pan squash, and many other things that might be named, and which wiU naturally
suggest themselves to the observing man in the first season's cultivation.
m. How to Prepare for an Orchard.
As a rule, in the West, the soil, if undrained, is at some seasons saturated with
water for weeks. Many persons make the mistake of digging deep holes in such soils
in which to set the trees. Nothing could be more fatal. With the plow and subsoiler
make the orchard " one great hole." That is, deepen the soil, and cast it into high
beds corresponding witli the width of the rows of orchard trees.
There is no better time than immediately after harvest for preparing the soil. If
not naturally drained it must be artificially drained, as a prerequisite to the best
success. Upon prairie soils, plow the land in one of the directions in which thfe trees
are to be set, as deep as the soil will admit, following in the furrow with a subsoil
plow, and loosening the earth below to as great a depth as possible, leaAang the sur-
face rouo^h. If the soil is plowed both ways, to form squares, so much the better.
Just before cold weather, but always when the land is dry and friable, proceed
along the tops of the ridges where the trees are to be set, and cast two deep furrows
apart so as to leave a " land side " in the middle. The ground should be left now
until sprinc. Then, when the earth is in a good and friable state for working, set the
trees so that the necks will be from one-half to one inch deeper than they stood in the
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN. 449
nursery — in heavy soils the same depth they stood in the nursery — being sure they
row both ways.
IV. Laying Out the Orchard and Planting.
Begin at one side of the field, and extend the row as far as you wish, setting
stakes exactly in line, and so the last stake will be some distance beyond the last row
of trees desired. Then from the place- of beginning, run a line at a right angle from
the first. This may be done by adjusting two ten feet rods — by means of a square^—
at right angles to each other, and bracing them. Then set a stake at the corner, and
another one at the end, and standing some distance behind the first stake, extend the
line by means of other stakes, and as far as desired. So proceed from each corner
until you intersect the first line run, correcting any errors that may occur. Then
measure and stake accurately, the distance required for each tree, with a chain or
tape line, entirely around the piece, and then the intervening spaces across the orchard
plat. Thus, if you have done your work correctly, the stakes thus set will line both
ways.
The Distance Apart. — The distance at which apple trees should Jje set is en-
tirely a matter of taste with the planter. At thirty feet apart with good cultivation,
many varieties will meet and interlash their branches, at the end of eighteen or twenty
years, if the cultivation has been good, and the trees remain healthy. Our own ex-
perience is, that twenty feet is a proper distance for apple trees, but we should set
every alternate row with sorts that bear early, and by liberal cultivation and root
pruning, force them into bearing, and wear them out at the end of twelve years, and
then grub them out, leaving the alternate rows to occupy the entire land, plowing the
earth from the centres, towards the remaining trees. Thus they will eventually be
placed upon beds well elevated, and sloping gradually to the centres, until near the
dead furrows. If the remaining trees interfere too much in the rows every alternate
one may be taken out, and at last you will have your trees forty feet apart each way,
the proper distance when they get age.
Flautiug. — To set your trees, provide yourself with a fence board, say nine feet
long, notched in the middle, and containing an inch and a half hole at accurate dis-
tances from each end — say six inches. Place the notch against the stake where the
tree is to set; thrust a short stake through the hole at each end, and remove the
board, allowing the outside stakes to remain. Dig the hole and so proceed until you
have the whole completed. Or, having two guage boards, exactly alike, one hand
can be digging while another is setting. In planting the tree all that is necessary is
to slip the holes in the board over the pegs, and the notch in the middle will mark
the exact place where the tree is to stand.
'In digging the holes, be sure you have them large enough to accommodate the
roots without crowding, leaving a good, broad mound in the centre, upon which to set
the tree. This is easily accomplished by drawing the earth to the centre, after the
hole is dug, tramping it solid, and then smoothing the mound to your satisfaction.
29
450
HOME VXD FAEM 3JLVXUAL.
On Drained Soils. — The remarks here made apply to our ordinary undrained
prairie soils. If the soil is artificially or naturally drained do not raise the beds,
unless the blue clay comes very near the surface. If so, the raised beds will be of
advantage to give a deeper soil for the trees while yet young. If the roots run deep
and unchecked, this will operate against early bearing. Hence the excellent success
EARLY FAT.
of the late Dr. Hull, of Alton, by means of root pruning. Mr. B. F. Johnson, of
Champaign, a graphic writer and discriminating observer, lately assured the author
that the most regular bearing farmers' orchards that had come under his eye, were on
firm soils, underlaid with strong clay, and which in the spring were even wet. The
reason is a natural one. If the soil is not permanently wet, the trees receive a check
during summer droughts that throw them into bearing.
OECHAED, VINEYAED AND SMALL-FEUIT GAEDEN. 451
V. When to Buy Trees and When to Plant Them^
We prefer to order and receive the trees in the autumn for obvious reasons.
They should be shipped as soon after the fall of the leaf as possible. Having
received them, cut all ends of lacerated roots as clean as possible, and the trees being
HIGBY SWEET APPLE.
pruned mto shape, heel them in, in some place where the winter sun will not fall on
them in the middle of the day. To do this dig a trench on some well-drained spot,
large enough to contain all the roots, and about a foot deep, throwing the earth to the
south. Lay the roots into this trench, the trees as closely together as possible, and at
an angle of about 45 degrees. Cover the roots with mellow earth, dug from in front
452
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
of where the roots lie, and cover the stems, also, weU up to the branches. They are
then safe for the winter.
Much has been said first and last about the proper time to plant orchard trees.
If you are ready to plant and your soil has been properly prepared, there is no objec-
tion to fall planting, if it is properly done. The great difficulty with fall-planted trees
is, first, they are not protected from being swayed about by the wind. If fall' planted,
this must be attended to by carefully staking and tying. Then raise a sharp mound
of earth about the tree. This will assist in holding it firm. The second, and principal
objection to fall-planted trees is the loss by winter evaporation, and especially by our
cold, drying winds. Hence, we should guard against this by protecting all such trees
from the wind and sun as much as possible the first winter. One of the means to
Fig. 1.
Fig. 2.
Fig. 3.
Fig. 4.
NURSERY TREES.
meet this end is a more severe pruning (cutting back) than is usual with spring-planted
trees. Other means will be readily suggested by the planter's own observation. On
the whole, we prefer spring planting in the West. As to ,the form of trees as
received from the best nurseries, the illustration, Fig. 1, shows the regular standard
form of orchard trees, the trunk three to four feet clear of branches ; Fig. 2, dwarf
apple or doucin stock; Fig. 3, dwarf apple or paradise stock; Fig. 4 is a pear tree,
pruned, to produce a pyramidal form, being two or three years from the bud, and
showing one season's growth after cutting back. These will also show the several
forms of trees, standard, low heads, etc.
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN. 453
VI. What Varieties to Plant.
There is this to be remembered in planting a home orchard. While the culti-
vator must select measurably of those varieties that are hardiest and most prolific, he
may, nevertheless, give himself larger latitude in selection than the purely mai'ket
orchardist, Whose selection runs to few varieties and those which will give the largest
crops of fruit. The farmer raises fruit for himself, and may be content with a
smaller crop and better fruit. The illustrations of fruits given in this chapter are not
intended to convey the idea that they are the best for general cultivation. They are
superior fruits, in repute in particular localities, and are given here to show forms and
characteristics.
VII. Apples, their Cultivation and Varieties.
Whatever the cultivation of the general orchard, the care of the home or garden
orchard should be as good as that of the garden. The cultivation, however, must be
superficial — only enough to keep the surface soil in tilth. About the tenth of July it
is not a bad plan to sow buckwheat, and just before it comes into bloom plow it
lightly under. It keeps down weeds and when turned under helps to enrich the soil.
Pruning, Etc. — The pruning is important. Whenever you see a twig that is
liable to give trouble by crossing another, take it out, whatever the season of the year.
But do not prune too much — in the West, especially. The thicker the head the bet-
ter, provided it does not get so dense as to exclude proper light and air from the
leaves. The form of the tree must also be studied, and its natural habit be complied
with. Insects must be watched, and the proper means taken to destroy them. These
will be indicated in the chapter relating to insects. The bark of trees seldom gets
mossy and bark-bound where the soil is cultivated. If it does, it should be scraped,
as to the rough bark, and washed with soft soap, or with a solution of potash and
water. If leaf blight attacks the trees, cut it away at the first indication and burn the
twigs. If trees die from the effects of a hard winter, take them up .and plant again.
The first ten bearing years of any apple or other long-lived tree is better than all that
comes after. Tfie profit is in young, thrifty trees, not in old ones. In the West, the
average productive life of an apple orchard is less than twenty-five years. Trees five
years old of early bearing sorts will produce fruit, the later bearing varieties will
range longer, even up to ten years for such varieties as Northern Spy.
We append brief descriptions, some of them after Elliot, of the varieties illus-
trated. These, as before stated, being given not only as excellent varieties in certain
localities, but to illustrate also forms and pecuharities of the fruits.
The following descriptions apply to the fruits illustrated, and are given as de-
scriptive of form, color and other characteristics, and as an index to the study of
fruits.
Canada Reinette. — Synonyms: Canada Pippin, Portugal, Canadian Reinette,
Janaurea, Pomme de Caen, De Bretagne, Reinette de Grosse du Canada, German
Green, Wahr Reinette, Reinette du Canada Blanche, Grosse Reinette d'Angleterre,
454
THE HOME AND FARM M^VXUAL.
Reinette du Canada a Cortez, White Pippin (erroneously), Yellow Newton Pippin
(erroneously)
Fruit. — Size, large to extra large; form, varying, generally roundish flattened,
slightly oblique, angular, much ribbed, especially toward the crown or calyx; some-
times the form is almost oblong and quite smooth ; color, light greenish yellow, with
frequently a faint blush of red on the sun-exposed side; many small dark green
specks, surrounded with light green suffused beneath the skin; stem, short, set a
little inclined on one side in a deep, open cavity; slightly russeted; calyx, with short
SU3IJIEE ROSE APPLE.
divided half-open segments; basin, with prominent ribs; flesh, yellowish-white, jucy,
crisp, tender, sharp, sub-acid, sprightly, aromatic; core, small, compact; seeds very
dark brown, almost black, season, December to May.
Tetofsky. — Fruit: size, medium; form, nearly round, slightly oblate conic,
smooth; ground color, a pale yellow, beautifully striped with red and overspread
with a fiber-like whitish bloom; flesh, white, crisp, juicy, slightly acid, and with an
agreeable fragrance, and early ripening; tree, short, vigorous, upright, with a broad,
distinct foliage that marks it at once to the beholder. Jt is very hardy, an early and
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
455
regular bearer, and forms a roundish, conical, open head, with branches abounding in
fruit-spurs. This is ah old apple, and it is strange that it has not been more appre-
ciated, especially by those who live in climates trying to the vitality of fruit trees.
It has been grown in Maine, in most of the nortlrern localities in Canada, and nearly
fifty years since was fruiting at Salem, Mass.
Early Joe.— The fruit in size is below medium; form, roundish flattened, very
regular ; color, pale yellowish green, overspread with broken stripes and splashes of
/
f/
\lL[J^lj;r
X
GRIMES' UOLDEN.
pale and pale red; stem, of medium length, rather slender, set in a deep open cavity,
somewhat russeted; calyx, small, nearly closed; basin, shallow; flesh, yellowish,
white, tender, crisp, with a delicate rich pear flavor; core, medium, with an open
center; seeds, abundant, short, pyriform; season, July and August.
Tree. — In the nursery this is a slow, stocky grower, but after becoming estab-
lished in good soil in the orchard it mades moderately vigorous and healthy shoots,
and fprms an open spreading, rather irregular tree of only medium size. It produces
very abundantly and may be noted for its dark colored foliage, as well as by its quite
dark reddish brown annual shoots. Its origin is claimed for Ontario County, New
York.
456 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Remarks. — This is one of the most delicious of all the summer apples. It is
comparatively little known or grown at the West, probably from the trees growing so
slowly in the nursery as to make their cultivation unprofitable. Although of small
size, the trees are such good bearers, and the fruit so firm for carriage, that were it
once grown and offered, its superior quality would undoubtedly make it always com-
mand a ready sale. Like all our early summer ripening varieties when grown at the
South its size is much increased and the tree becomes larger and stronger.
Higby Sweet. — Synonyms: Lady's Blush, Trumbull Sweet, Feriton Sweet.
Fruit. — Size, medium or above; form, roundish conical, flattened at ends, often
one side enlarged or slightly oblique ; color, clear pale yellow, with a faint tinge of
red in the sun, and a few obscure, suffused, reddish dots; stem, medium, often
short and rather slender, usually set a little on one side of an open rather deep cavity;
calyx, small to medium, generally closed; basin, deep, abrupt, slightly furrowed;
flesh, white, very tender, juicy, delicate, rich, sweet; core, small, compact; seeds,
plump, roundish ovate, sharply pointed; season, October to December.
Tree. — ^A vigorous, healthy, upright grower while young, with moderate sized
shoots. In the orchard it makes a round, regular, open head, and forms a rather large-
tree, producing almost annually and abundantly a fair even-sized fruit. Originated
in Trumbull County, Ohio.
Remarks. — This is, comparatively, a new variety, but a very hardy tree, produc-
tive, and one of the most delicate and pleasant of all the sweet apples. It is
especially suited for table use, or for cooking, or for other uses about the homestead,
but is too tender for shipment.
Summer Rose. — Synonyms: Woolmans, Harvest, Lippincott.
Fruit. — Size, below medium; form, roundish, flattened regular; color, glossy,
pale yellow., blotched, splashed and streaked with two shades of rich red ; a few mi-
nute dots; stem, varying from stout to slender; cavity, narrow, pretty deep; calyx,
with recurved segments, partially or quite closed; basin, broad, open, pretty deep,
slightly furrowed; flesh, fine grained, white, tender, crisp, juicy, sprightly, agreeably
subacid; core, medium to large; seeds, abundant, short, plump, full, round, ovate;
season, July and August.
Tree. — A vigorous, healthy grower, with short jointed, stout shoots, forming a
small or medium sized tree, with an irregular spreading head; very productive.
Origin, New Jersey.
Remarks. — The Summer Rose usually proves one of the most desirable of early
summer fruits for family use. It is an early bearer, continues a long time in ripening,
and although not so rich as Early Joe, or Garden Royal, it nevertheless has a spright-
liness that makes it always admired, and fits it wiell for the dessert or cooking. It is
valuable as a market sort, where quality is ranked before sizp.
Grimes' Golden. — This apple, originally from Virginia, was introduced thence
to Ohio, and later West. It is a deservedly popular and fine dessert, and also a good
cooking fruit.
OECHAED, VINEYAED AND SMALL-FEUIT GAEDEN.
457
Teee. — A vigorous growing, healthy, spreading, productive and early, bearing
sort.
Quality. — The late Dr. Warder classed it as being too good for aught else than
the dessert. We endorse it without hesitation. The core being small and closed;
flesh, firm, yellow, very fine grained and juicy; subacid, aromatic, spicy and refresh-
ing. It is a winter apple, in season from Januai'y to March.
VIII. Pears.— Their Variety and Cultivation.
It has been said that pears cost the amateur ten times as much to cultivate as to
buy them. It is certain that pears are only successfully cultivated for market in
widely isolated localities. Still we have seen pears growing in farmers' gardens, and
bearing regularly, in many apparently un-
favorable localities, judging from the lack of
orchards near. The pear is long-lived, and
resists severe winters. Its great drawback
is blight, except on soils peculiar to the
tree. In Michigan, for instance, some sec-
tions of Indiana and Illinois, and elsewhere
in the West, are trees planted by the French
missionaries of the last, and even preceding,
century, "hale and hearty yet." Still, it
is not to be denied that "pear culture"
" treacherous." It is best for the amate i
to experiment with dwarf pears; we ha
had good success with them in garden ci 1
ture.
' Pears on Quince Stock. — Here is a
list of good sorts of pears for cultivation
on quince stocks: Summer. — ^Andre Des-
portes, Bartlett, Beurre Giffard, Brandy-
wine, Tyson, Petite Marguerite, Clapp's
Favorite. Autumn. — Beurre Hardy, Beurre Clairgeau, Belle Lucrative, Urbaniste,
Duchesse d'Angouleme, Doyenne Boussock, White Doyenne, Beurre Su^erfin, Flem-
ish Beauty, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Seckel, Howell. Winter. — Beurre d'Anjou,
Easter Beurre, Doyenne d'Alencon, Lawrence, Josephine de Malines.
Gathering Peaes. — One of the most important points in the management of
pears, is to gather them at the proper time. Summer pears should be gathered at
least ten days before they are ripe, and autumn pears at least a fortnight. Winter
varieties if they will hang so long, may be left until the leaves begin to fall. When
pear trees are heavily laden with fruit, they should be thinned when about one-third
grown; else the fruit will be poor and the trees injured.
BONNE DU PUITS ANSAULT PEAR.
458
THE HOME AXD FAKM 3LVXUAL.
The pears illustrated are, two of them, of recent introduction; the others, pears
that have received favorable mention from many growers.
Frederic Clapp. — Of this pear, Hon. Marshal P. Wilder, the life-long President
of the American Pomological Society, gives the following description: " Form gen-
erally obovate, but somewhat vari-
able; size above medium, skin thin,
smooth and fair, clear lemon yel-
low ; flesh fine grained, very juicy
and melting, flavor slightly acid--
ulous, rich and aromatic ; season
October 15th to November 1st,
remaining sound at core to the last ;
quality very good to best, and will
be highly esteemed by those who
like acidulous pears. Of this pear
the committee of the Massachusetts
Horticultural Society have reported
favorably for years. Of its qual-
ity they state in 1873: 'It was
pronounced decidedly superior to
Beurre Superfin, and is regarded
by all who have seen it as the
highest bred and most refined of
all the many seedlings shown by
Messrs. Clapp.' It is probably a
cross between Beurre Superfin and
Urbaniste, the tree resembling in
habit the latter variety, and nlay
cultivators of the pear." Tree a
FREDERIC CLAPP PEAR.
all
safely be commended as worthy of trial by
vigorous or free grower and somewhat spiny.
Bonne du Puits Ansault. — Another recent pear well spoken of is Bonne du
Puits Ansault, a pear of 1865, of Mons. Leroy, France. Of this pear, Messrs.
Ellwanger & Barry say : ' ' Medium size ; melting, juicy and very fine grained ; one
of the finest in quality of all peai's, superior to Seckel. Ti'ee a poor grower, which
necessitates top grafting to obtain good standard trees. Bears when quite young."
Howell. — Size, medium to large; form, obovate, pyramidal , very regular; color,
greenish, becoming pale, lemon-yellow or straw color at maturity, many small russet
dots, and on the sunny side a faint blush, sometimes deepening into a clear red cheek;
stem, about one and one-quai'ter inch long, curved, moderately stout and inverted
without depression; calyx, open in a shallow, smooth, regular basin; core, small;
seeds, round, oval, plump; flesh, white, fine grained, juicy, melting, sweet and
pleasantly perfumed; season, September.
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
459
Tree. — ^An upright, vigorous grower, with roundish, broad, oval foliage, an early
bearer on the pear stock, and succeeding among the best when worked on quince.
HOWELL PEAR.
This fruit originated in 1829, in the garden of Thomas Howell, New Haven,
Conn., from seed of a hard winter pear, which had, growing on one side of it, a
summer Bon Chretien, and on the other a White Doyenne.
460
THE HOME AND FARM StANUAL.
Dix. — ^Fruit: — Size, large; form, oblong pyriform; color, pale yellow, becom-
ing deep yellow when well matured, with many distinct irregular-sized russet dots and
patches, and considerably russeted around the stem ; stem, rather short, stout, thickest
at each end, set obliquely or with a raised lip on one side, with little or no depression;
DIX PEAE.
calyx, small for the size of the fruit: basin, shallow; flesh, j-ellowish-white, moder-
ately fine-grained, juicy, melting, rich, sweet, slightly perfumed; core, marked with
a dark, gritty circle, and the same extending toward the stem; season, October and
November.
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
461
Tree. — A vigorous, upi-ight grower, with pale yellow, slender shoots, sometimes
thorny, quite hardy, unproductive while young, but an abundant bearer when the tree
becomes of mature age, say ten to fifteen years from planting ; originated in Boston,
Massachusetts, in the garden of Madam Dix, and fruited for the. first time in 1826.
^1
PARADISE D'AUTOMNE PEAR.
Eemarks. — Although the Dix is comparatively a long time before coming into
bearing, so far as I can learn, it proves an earlier bearer and a better fruit South. than
in its own locality ; and such is its vigor and hardihood, that it is yet one of the most
valuable sorts for extensive orchard planting ; for, when it once commences bearing
it produces abundantly, of a regular, even, large fruit, desirable for table or market.
462
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Paradise d'Automne. — Synonyms: Autumn Paradise, Calebasse Bosc, Maria
Kouvelle, Princess Marianne.
FRUiT.^-Size, large; form, obovate, obtuse, pj^'iform, with an irregular, uneven
surface; color, dull yellow, mostly overspread with a bright cinnamon russet, deep-
ening on the sunny-side; stem, rather long and slender, largest at ends, and obliquely
attached to the fruit by fleshy wrinkles, without depression ; calyx, rather large, open,
with reflexed segments; basin, abrupt, furrowed; flesh, yellowish-white, slightly
granulous, juicy, buttery, melting with a delicious, rich, vinous, aromatic flavor;
core, small; seeds, full, long, pointed; season, September and October.
Tree. — A vigorous, strong grower, with long, reddish brown shoots, dotted with ,
many large, whitish gray specks; at first the tree is quite upright, but it soon becomes
half pendulous, spreading, open, and rather straggling; an early and very abundant
bearer; of foreign origin.
Eemarks. — ^As a standard orchard fruit, the Paradise d'Automne is by many
eminent pomologists regarded as even superior to the Beurre Bosc, which it somewhat
resembles both in tree and fruit. It is a variety that as a standard comes early into
bearing, and produces abundantly a fruit
that in quality has few to surpass it.
Every farmer who wants this fruit
should try, pears, for in any locality some
varieties are pretty sure to give satisfaction.
The cultivator once he finds the sorts most
healthy on his grounds will retain them, of
course; but, in experimenting, do not be
afraid of new sorts on account of blight.
They are not necessarily more liable to blight
than the older varieties. But do not be de-
;eived by representations that certain pears
Lre blight-proof. There is no blight-proof
)3ear.
Little Marguerite. — Medium size,
ikin greenish yellow, with browish red
;heek,.>and covered with greenish dots.
Flesh fine, melting, juicy, vinous, and of
lirst quality. Tree, vigorous, upright, and
an early and abundant bearer. Succeeds as
jLiTTLE MAKGUEuiTE PEAi!. a Standard or dwarf. The finest pear of its
season, and worthy of special attention. Rioens latter part of August.
IX. The Forms of Fruits Explained.
The forms of fruits are an interesting study. Many of the more common forms
are illustrated in this work. To define the various forms of fruits, as designated by
OKCIIAED, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
4153
specific terms we quote from " American Pomology," by the late lamented Dr.
Warder. These apply to the various orchard fruits :
The form may be round or globular when it is nearly spherical ; the two diam-
eters, the axial and transverse, being nearly equal. Globose is another term of about
the same meaning. Conic, or conical, indicates a decided contraction toward the
blossom end; Ob-conic implies that the cone is very short or flattened. Oblong
means th"at the axial diameter is the longer, or that it appears so, for an oblong apple
may have equal diameters. Oblong-conic, that the outline also tapers rapidly toward
GEOKGE IV. PEACH.
the eye. Oblong-ovate, that it is fullest in the middle; and like Ovate, which means
egg-shaped, that it tapers to both ends. Oblate, or flattened, when the axial diam-
eter is decidedly the shorter. Obtuse is applied to any of these figures that is not
very decided. Cylindrical and truncate are dependent upon one another, thus, a
globular, or still more remarkably, an oblong fruit, which is abruptly truncated or
flattened at the ends, appears cylindrical in its form. Depressed is an unusually
4(;-i
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
flattened oblate form. Turbinate or top-shaped, and pyriform or pear-shaped, are
especially applicable to pears, and seldom to apples.
When these forms are described evenly about a vertical axis, as shown by a
section of the fruit made transversely, or across the axis, the specimen may be called
regular or uniform; if otherwise, it is irregular, unequal, oblique ov lop-sided, in
NOBLESSE PEACH
which last cases the axis is inclined to one side. If the development at the surface
is irregular, as in the Duchesse d'Angouleme and Bartlett pears, the fruit is termed
uneven.
When a transverse section of the fruit, made at right angles to the axis, gives
the figure of a circle, the fruit is regular; if otherwise, it may be compressed or
flattened at the sides ; angular, quadrangular, sulcate or furrowed, when marked by
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
465
sulcations; or ribbed, when the intervening ridges are abrupt. Heart-shaped is a
form that applies more especially to the cherry than to any other kind of fruit.
Size is a character of but second-rate importa4ice, since it is depending upon the
varying conditions of soil, climate, overbearing, etc. It has its value, however, when
it is considered as comparative or relative. The expressions employed in this work
HJfiOTARINE OK SMOOTH PEACH— ELEUGE.
to indicate size, are: very large, large, medium, very small, small, making five
grades.
The characters of the skin and surface are generally very reliable, though th^
smoothness of the skin as well as the coloring depend upon both soil and climate.
We find, however, that a striped apple which has been shaded, though pale, will
always betray itself by a splash or stripe, be it ever so small or rare, nor will any
exposure so deepen and exaggerate its stripes as to make it a self-colored fruit; and
no circumstances will introduce a true stripe upon a self-colored variety.
30
466 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
X. Peaches.
They are as easily cultivated as corn, south of 40 degrees, and pretty much all
over Michigan up to latitude 43 degrees. The only serious drawback is the disease
called yellows, and this generally exists in the more sandy districts. "Curl" in the
leaf is another disability, but not so fatal as the yellows, as deadly to the peach as is
glanders to the horse. The only remedy is to grub the trees whenever found, and in .
pruning always clean your knife-blade with a solution of _ carbolic acid after pruning
one tree and before commencing on another.
When you plant a new orchard, always be sure you get your budded trees from
a nursery not affected with the yellows. A peach orchard should never be allowed
to grow up in grass if you wish good fruit. The curculio and damp, hot weather
often cause rot, but no person, on account of any of these causes, should refuse ^to
set peach trees wherever the climate is favorable to carrying the trees through the
winter. Don't raise seedlings because they come up and grow themselves. Buy
budded trees or bud them yourself. This you may easily do from instructions given
in the chapter on Budding and Grafting.
George the Fourth. — Fruit: Size, medium to large; form, roundish, divided
by a broad deep suture, making one half appear larger than the other; skin, yellow-
ish-white, dotted with dark bright red, and shading into a rich dark red cheek where
fully exposed to the sun; flesh, whitish, pale red next to the stone, melting, juicy,
with a rich, luscious flavor; stone, small, separating freely from the flesh; season,
last of August. [See page 463. J
Tree. — A moderately vigorous grower and a regular, uniform, moderate bearer,
producing its fruit evenly distributed and all of unqualified excellence ; the flowers
are small and the leaves have obscure globose glands ; originated in New York City.
Kemarks. — Although the peach, like the strawberry, may be termed an evanes-
cent fruit, yet there are a few old varieties whose excellent qualities surpass all those
of more recent origin, for instance, the one here described. It is not a profuse
bearer, and hence its buds are so generally well perfected that it often sustains unin-
jured a greater degree of cold than many other varieties, and when it fruits all the
specimens are nearly equally good. The large Early York, Haines' Early, Walters'
Early, and one or two more popular market sorts, undoubtedly spring from this ; and
while possessing some superior qualities for the market orchard, have none of them
the richness and delicacy of this sort for table use.
Noblesse. — Synonyms: Lord Montague's Noblesse, Millistre's Favorite, Van-
guard, Noblest, Double Montague.
Fruit. — Size, above medium to large; form, roundish, sometimes with a hollow
at the apex and with a small point. Sometimes it is roundish oblong, and the point
at the apex quite prominent. Skin, pale greenish-white, marbled and streaked with
two shades of dull red in the sun, occasional faint blotches of red on the shaded side;
flesh, greenish-white, very juicy, melting with a rich, delicious flavor; stone, large.
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN. 467
obovate, pointed, separates freely from the flesh and without any stain of red;
season, early in September. [See page- 464. J
Tree. — A moderately slow grower at the North, and somewhat liable to mildew
when not in good ground. At the South it grows more vigorously, and does not
mildew. The flowers are large, and the leaves serrated without glands. Originated
in France.
Eemarks. — The Noblesse is one of the old varieties, whose good qualities have as
yet been unsurpassed by any of recent origin. It is of the richest and highest flavor,
and being entirely white at the stone, is quite desirable for canning or preserving.
XI. Nectarines.
Nectarines belong to the peach tribe, but have smooth skins. They are seldom
raised, on account of the delicacy of the trees, and the ravages of the curculio on the
fruit, the depredations of this insect being fully as fatal as with the finer varieties
of plums. The apricot, on the other hand, is allied to the plum, and like the nectar-
ine, but little cultivated. In the South they are grown to a limited extent, but so far,
California seems to be the home of these two delicious fruits. Their cultivation is
identical with that of the peach. "We give an illustration of the nectarine, Elruge.
with description.
Elruge. — Synonyms: Common Elruge, Anderson's, Oatland's, Claremont,
Temple, Spring Grove, Peterborough, (incorrectly.)
Fruit. — Size, medium to large ; form, roundish, inclining to oval; suture deep-
est toward the apex; skin, smooth, of a pale greenish ground, becoming, when well
ripened in the sun, nearly covered with a deep violet or blood red, distinctly dotted
with minute brownish specks; flesh, greenish-white, slightly stained with pale red
next the stone, from which it separates fredy, very juicy, melting, rich, and high
flavored; stone, medium size, oval, slightly pointed, quite rough and of a pale color;
season, early in September.
Tree. — The tree is a vigorous, hardy and healthy grower, with crenated leaves,
having uniform glands; flowers, small, and of a pale, dull red; of EngHsh origin.
Remarks. — The nectarine is one of the choicest of our stone fruits, and the trees
are as easily grown and more hardy than the peach, while to insure the crop of fruit
no more care is requisite than to insure that of the plum — ^the curculio being the only
obstacle to success. The variety figured and described here is one of the very best
and hardiest. [See page 465.]
XII. The Cherry.
There is no fruit more easily cultivated than the cherry, and none more liable
to disaster than the sweet varieties. Its great enemies in the West are black knot and
the curculio. Do not attempt to raise any cherries but Early Richmond (Early May)
and Late Morello, except in those districts where the sweet varieties are healthy.
Michigan and some portions of Ohio are the only States in the W«st where sweet
cherries are generally a success. Every farm should have a hundred trees of Early
468
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Eichmond and Late Morello. The latter for the reason that they often give a crop
when the first fails, and they are about two weeks later. The illustration shows the
Late Morello at the bottom, and Early Richmond at the top.
EARLY RICHMOND AND LATE MORELLO CHERRIES.
As we go East and especially South the sweet varieties may be more freely culti-
vated. East of the Alleghenies their cultivation is general. The inference then is
that the chief difficulties in the West are too hot and dry summers, and too cold and
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
469
dry winters. This is borne out by the fact that Michigan is congenial to the sweet
cherry; its climate is moist, comparatively cool in summer and mild in winter.
When the cherry is raised for family use, we should bud on Mahaleb stocks, since
there are no suckers and the fruit is larger, But on Morello the bearing is more
profuse and the tree comes into bearing earlier. These reputable Northern varieties
of sweet cherries are illustrated and described below.
Black Eagle. — Fruit: Size, above medium to large; form, obtuse, heart-
shaped; surface, .smooth, even, regular; color, reddish purple, becoming nearly black
•V «£- »', / ■ --i--^
. .^
BLACK EAGLE CHEERY.
at maturity; stone, medium length, rather slender, inserted in a round regular basin;
flesh, deep purple, almost or quite tender, with a rich high flavored juice, superior to
any other black cherry, except Black Hawk; season, early in July.
Tree. — A short jointed, stout, strong grower, with large leaves, producing Only
moderately while young, but abundantly when the trees have acquired some age.
The fruit is borne in pairs and threes. It is an English variety, originated by the
470
THE HOSrE AND FARM ilANUAL.
daughter of Mr. Knight, in 1806, from seed of the Bigarreau, fertilized by the May
Duke.
Eemaeks. — This is one of the richest in quality of all the sweet cherries, and
also one of the most hardy trees. Its unproductiveness while young has almost
GOVEBJSrOE WOOD CHEERY.
thrown it out of cultivation, but it is a variety that should be retained, and one or
more trees planted in every orchard for family use, where sweet cherries will thrive.
Governor Wood. — This cherry is large, roundish, heart-shaped; color, ridi
light yellow, mottled or marbled with a beautiful carmine, that when fully ripe and
exposed to the sun becomes a clear rich red; it has a suture half round, followed on
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN. 471
the opposite side by a dark line ; flesh, light pale yellow witn radiating lines, half
lariGHT'S EARLY BLACK CHERRY.
tender, juicy, sweet, with a rich, high flavor; pit, roundish, ovate, considerably ribbed;
stem, varying in length and size; season, middle of June.
472
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Tree. — A vigorous, healthy, strong grower, forming a round regular head, very-
productive; flowers, large; foliage, abundant.
This cherry, originated by the late Professor Kirtland, of Ohio, has been very
generally distributed and fruited all over the United States, and also by some of the
best pomologists in France and England, and everywhere the testimony is that it
ranks among the very highest in every particular.
Knight's Early Black. — Fruit : Size, medium or rather above ; form, obtuse
heart-shape: surface, a little uneven; suture, broad, open, half round, with a knobby
projection opposite ; color, purplish red, becoming nearly quite black when fully ripe ;
stem, stout to medium, inserte(f in a deep round basin; flesh separates freely from
the pit, is tender, juicy, rich and sweet; pit, medium; season, last of June.
Tree. — A stocky, strong grower, with short jointed wood, oblong leaves, and
flowers of middle size. Originated by Mr. Knight, of England, in 1810. For
amateur garden culture it is one of the finest, making a tree of only moderate size.
[See page 471.J
XIII. Picking and Packing Orchard Fruits.
Before leaving the subject of orchard fruits, something should be said about
picking. Never shake the harder fruits from the tree, unless they are intended simply
for their juice. Pick by hand, in smooth baskets, and
handle without bruising until they are in the packages
properly closed for market. Then they will remain
intact. If barreled, press in the head so it will squeeze
down hard upon the first layer of apples or pears.
Although this may indent, it will not rot the fruit. It
is shaking about in the package that destroys fruit.
In picking, provide yourself with a proper ladder.
The form shown in the illustration is the proper one,
and it also makes a good step-ladder for a variety of
purposes.
XIV. The Small Fruits.
Blackberries. — These should be planted six feet
apart between the rows, by three and a half feet in the
row, and cut ofE when the canes are four feet high.
Haspberries. — These are planted the same dis-
tance apart between rows as blackberries, by three feet
in the row. They are cut off at a height of three feet. Currants and gooseberries
are planted four feet apart between rows, by about three feet in the row. The culti-
vation should be clean.
Strawberries. — The strawberry is universally cultivated. No farm-garden
should be without them. Any land rich enough to bring forty to fifty bushels of corn
per acre, under good cultivation, will do. The ground should be plowed deeply and
FEUIT-PICKING LADDER.
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AXD SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
473
thoroughly well pulverized. Mark the land, if for field culture, the distance as for
corn. If for garden cultivation, the rows may be three feet apart. For field culture,
the land may be marked both ways, and one good plant placed at each intersection,
spreading the roots naturally, placing the plants so the crowns will not be above the
surface, giving a little water to the roots if the soil be not fairly moist, and after the
water has settled away, drawing the dry earth over all. For garden culture, one plant
to three feet of space will be suflScient, unless the plants are to be raised in stools, and
the runners kept cut out, when a plant to each two feet will be about right, if you
want extra large berries.
The cultivation is simple. The spaces between the rows, about two feet wide,
may be kept clean with the cultivator. In the rows the weeds may be kept, early in
the season, clean with the cultivator; later, when the runners have encroached on the
rows, the weeds must be pulled out, if necessary, but on fairly clean soil the cultiva-
tion will not be difficult. Beds of the previous year, and which should be in full fruit
this season, may be kept clean between the rows with the cultivator. The weeds will
not trouble much until the crop is gathered.
GRAPE-VINE TKELLIS.
XV. The Vineyard.
There is no reason why any farmer in the West, up to the line of forty-four
degrees, if he have good corn land, should be without plenty of Concord grapes in
their season. Farther South, other and sweeter varieties may be grown. We should
rather say, the more delicate varieties, for the Concord grape contains a full average
of sugar mixed with its acid. There ai-e four principal species of Amei-ican grapes
in cultivation, which, with their crosses, constitute the large number of varieties for
out-door cultivation. In California, the European varieties are also grown.
The American species are, 1, Viiis labrusca, of which the Concord is a type;
2, V. cestivaUs, of which the varieties Devereaux and Elsinburgh are examples;
3, V. vulpina, of which the Scuppernong of the South may be accepted as a type,
and 4, Vitis cordifolia, of which Clinton is a well-known example. The Labrusca has
the greatest number of varieties in general cultivation North ; ^stivalis is in repute in
the Atlantic States for wine, Catawba being a well-known variety ; Vulpina contains a
474 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
number of reputable varieties at the South ; Cordif oUa represents the most healthy
class of northern grapes, the leaves not being subject to mildew, or the fruit to rot.
It is sour, but makes an excellent acid wine. Vulpina is not hardy north of Vir-
ginia, but is especially adapted to a low, warm country. It is deficient in sugar, but
when galized, by the addition of sugar to the juice, gives a wine rich and of
unequaled perfume. Vitis vinifera is the European species, but is little cultivated
outside of glass structures, except in California.
If it is decided to train on trellises, the cut will show a simple form. 1, is a '
firmly fixed slanting post, to sustain the tension; 3, is the end-post braced. The
wires are stapled on, except at 2, where they pass through holes in the post. They
are tightened by any usual means of tension. See cut on page 473.
Within the past twelve or fifteen years, the grape has taken its place among the
fruits regularly cultivated by farmers and gardeners in this country, and bought for
daily use by all classes in our principal markets. The hot-house standard has ceased
to be the test as to what constitutes a palatable grape, and nearly every section pro-
duces, in abundance, the varieties of this wholesome and delicious fruit. The firm-
pulped, thin-skinned grapes of California, now found upon the fruit stands of every
city in the United States, from Boston to New Orleans, already rival in delicacy and
flavor the famous grapes of Malaga; the juicy scuppernong grows abundantly, and
with comparatively little care, upon the light sandy soils of the South Atlantic and
Gulf coast. It yields a delicious sweet wine, in the manufacture of which a consid-
erable industry is springing up.
XVI. The Grapes for Farmers.
The grapes for the farmer's garden are not the new and untried varieties
brought out every year for trial at five dollars a vine. It is true that from these
successive varieties have come the well-established sorts in general repute. If
experiments are interesting, make them hj all means, but stick to well-established
varieties until you have found a better. Our choice would be that Concord should
have a place everywhere. It is a good grape, north, south, east and west. Then
decide as to the other varieties to fill up the complement of the vineyard, earlier and
later. Many of Rodgers' hybrids are worthy of trial. If you are at a loss, ask
the advice of some practical cultivator near you. In the North, especially north of
forty degrees, we should plant principally of Concord, with Delaware and Clinton to
fill up the vineyard. In the cultivation, avoid close summer pruning. As to soil,
land that will produce forty bushels of corn per acre, will give good crops of grapes
if the subsoil is not wet.
Cultivation of the Vine. — In the cultivation of the grape avoid close pruning
in summer, pinch the side growth of the current year to about two buds on each spur,
and the vine being in fruit, prune none at all after the middle of July, except to
clip off superabundant growth. This may be done with a corn-knife. Avoid, also,
all fancy training. Close pruning and fancy training, advocated by so many theo-
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN.
475
retical writers, has done more to suppress the cultivation of the vine than the want of
superior varieties. For ourselves we gave up, many
years ago, the trellis for simple stakes, either bow-
ing the vine or twisting and tying it around the
stake. Our plan with young vines is to set one
year old plants 8x8 feet for the stronger growing
varieties, and 6x6 feet for the weaker, as, for
instance, Delaware.
The first season we simply tie the vine to a
slender stake, cutting back in the fall to three eyes.
The next spi-ing we rub out two of these eyes,
reserving the strongest shoot. This is tied to the
permanent stake, which may be three or four inches
in diameter and six feet high, although five feet is
enough .
When the vine has reached a height of six feet
it is pinched off at that height, the laterals as they
put out are pinched off, beyond the first bud.
When this bud makes growth to the extent of one
bud, it is stopped again beyond that bud. It is
sometimes (generally) pinched back once more.
This leaves a succession of three buds, for fruiting
the next year, on every spur.
Covering the Vines. — We believe in laying
down the vines and covering them with a little
earth each winter, in the North. It gives better
fruit and saves occasional winter-killing. Vines
six or seven feet long and studded with fruit, three
bunches for each spur, and planted 8x8 will give
tons of fruit per acre in good seasons. The aim
of the cultivator is to keep the vine going by en-
couraging new fruit spurs each year that the bear-
ing may be continued for years.
The time will come when the vine must be cut
down at such a point as to induce the formation of a bud near the ground, and upon
which to form a new bearing vine. This may be so arranged that about one-quarter,
or uj^ to a half, may be cut back each year ; or two shoots may be reared frota each
vine, one for fruit, to be cut away in the fall, and the other to succeed it the next
year. Our own plan, however, is to allow only one strong shoot, and renew the
whole vine when necessary. Thus we have always got more and better fruit from
the same area.
Many persons, however, are wedded to the trellis system. It is not to be denied
VINE OF TWO CANES TRAINED TO
STAKE.
476
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
that it has some advantages
TEELLIS AND VINE, SHOWING ALTERNATE
OR RENEWAL SYSTEM.
Hence we give a cut of a section of trellis and vine.
D D, are the canes of the first year's growth;
b b b, are fruited canes of last year cut away;
a a a, are shoots of last year pinched back to
three buds to each spur (as we have recom-
mended), and form the fruiting canes of the
current year.
Terminology of the Vine. — For the
reason that there is confusion relating to no-
menclature in the several parts of the vine,
Mr. J. E. Starr, before the Illinois Horticultural
Society, stated the terminology of the vine as
follows :
1. The EooT — ^that part growing under
the ground.
•that part between the root and the first departure.
•wood of last season's growth — prepared for fruiting.
2. The Stem-
3. The Cane-
4. Shoots — wood of the current season's growth, growing from the stem to
the spur.
5. Laterals — ^wood growing out from the canes, sometimes grown from shoots.
6. Sub-lateeals — wood growing from the laterals.
7 . Spues — wood cut back for the production of new wood.
8. Aems — canes laid down for fruiting.
9. Peemanent Aems — canes trained along the trellis permanently, for producing
either fruit or wood.
10. Leaves.
11. Clustees.
12. Tendeils.
13. Joints — spaces between the buds.
The above is the generally accepted definition. The late Dr. Hull, one of the
most scientific cultivators in the West, used the following terminology. Either
expresses the sense perfectly:
1. A Young Cane — a shoot of the current year's growth.
2. A Cane — the ripened wood of the young cane.
3. Beanch oe Stem — the cane which produces fruit.
4. Fruit Shoots — wood from the branches that produces the fruit.
5. Sub-Shoots — wood (shoots) from the fruit shoots. But new canes and
lateral canes may be called Canes.
6. Spurs — canes cut back for producing fruit or new wood.
7. Dormant Buds — those which do not grow till the second year.
In other particulars there is no essential difference between Dr. Hull's and Mr.
Starr's nomenclature.
ORCHARD, VINEYARD AND SMALL-FRUIT GARDEN. 477
XVII. Cultivation of the Cranberry.
In many of the sandy marsh districts bordering the Atlantic and the great lakes
of the West, cranberry culture has assumed vast proportions, and the berries are now
largely exported to Europe. Any farmer who has a piece of land that can be flooded
or made dry at will, may cultivate this fruit. The water supply is absolutely neces-
sary for flooding, to preserve the marshes in wjnter, but more especially for killing
insect pests, which otherwise will surely destroy the crop. Many might utilize natural
sandy marshes with large profit.
The best soil is muck with a coating of sand on top. Clay and loam soils will
not answer. Hence never plant cranberries on a drift formation, and the sand should
be sharp (a silicious sand).
When a situation has been selected for a cranberry bog, the first thing to be done
is to level it. A levelling instrument is not necessary. All that is required is a strip
or plank ten or fifteen feet in length, the edges jointed and made exactly parallel;
with this and a common carpenter's level the work may be quickly done. Stakes of
a foot or more in length, cut off square at the top, should be provided. Begin by
driving one of the stakes so that the top will correspond with the supposed surface of
the bog when completed. With this as the standing point, run several lines of stakes
through and across the bog. If more convenient, the tops of the stakes may be
elevated six or more inches above the proposed level. This operation is important
because stakes show where material is to be removed, and where filling is to be re-
quired ; and by making a little calculation the earth to be removed may be made to
exactly correspond with the amount required for filling. But this is not the principal
advantage ; it requires much less water to flow a bog that has a level surface than one
that is uneven.
If the bog is extensive, and cannot, without too much expense, be reduced to one
common level, there is no objection to having different grades with low dykes between
them. It is said that in building railroads nothing is ever lost by spending much
time in engineering. This remark has force and truth in it when applied to cranberry
bogs. The money and time spent in laying out the work to be done is always
economically expended. All that is to be done, ^nd how it is to be done, should be
known before work is commenced. In many bogs it would be economical to employ
an experienced engineer, and have marked stakes put up, profiles and working plans
drawn. With such marked stakes and drawings, the workman knows when he has
filled his barrow, where^ he is to tip the contents. There will be no mistakes, no
alterations to be made, and in the end money will be saved.
The depth of sand, required to be spread on the surface depends upon the depth
of the peat. If the latter is only a foot or two in thickness, five inches of sand is
considered suflicient; if it is several feet, at least a foot of sand is required to make a
good bog. The more sand there is used, the longer it requires to bring the vines
into a bearing state ; but when broug^it into that state they continue to bear for many
years.
478
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Planting. — The planting is generally done in the spring, by covering pieces of
the vine, say three inches long, in the soil, about two inches deep, eighteen inches
apart, three pieces in a place. A better way on prepared soil, would be to open
SHORT vlnt:, cultivated ceanbeeey.
narrow furrows, two feet apart, and strew the vines, cut into sections in the cutting-
box, rather thickly therein and covering lightly. If in planting in this manner, care
is taken to leave out one end of the vine, the best means will have been employed.
OKCHAKD, VINEYAEB AND SMALL-FKUIT GARDEN.
479
VARIETIES OP THE CEANBEEEY
480 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Picking. — The berries are generally gathered by an implement termed a cran-
berry rake. The teeth are about one foot long, of wood, and so nari-ow that only
the slender vines can pass through. These teeth end in a box about a foot square,
having a handle at the rear, and a bail hung over the top, so balanced that the teeth
may sweep forward and tear the berries from the vines. The best cultivators,
however, have the berries picked by hand, since they bring enough more to pay
the extra expense, and machine picking is now principally confined to the wild
marshes.
Varieties. — ^The cultivated varieties are now many. Some of the best we have
illustrated, showing at 1, the Bell cranberry; 2, Cherry; 3, Bugle; 4, Early Ked
Bell; 5, Cheeseberry, and 6, a modified form of the original Bugle cranberry.
7, shows the vine rooted in spagnum moss, as found in many wild marshes.
Curing and Packing. — Curing and packing, for saving over winter, or for
shipping, must not be neglected. After being picked they should be spread not more
than five inches deep in hurdles made of laths left open, so that the air can draw
through them. These hurdles should be piled for three weeks in a room where the
air circulates freely. If kept in this manner for a longer time, it would do no harm;
the berries would become perfectly ripe, and thereafter be less liable to rot or to be
injured by frost. When taken from the hurdles they should be winnowed, and
every unsound berry picked out by hand. It is also important that the barrels or
packages in which they are put should be dry and clean.
A recapitulation of essentials may be stated as follows :
1. The cranberry cannot be successfully cultivated on the drift formation — that
is, on a soil composed of clay or loam.
2. There must be the means of draining the bog eighteen inches below the
general surface.
3. All bushes, wild grasses, and roots must be pared off and removed.
4. If the soil does not naturally consist of sand and an admixture of peaty
matter, it must be artificially corrected; if peat, by putting on beach-sand, or sand
composed of fine particles of quartz rock; and if pure sand, by adding peaty
matter.
5. It is desirable to have the command of water, so that the water in the
ditches can be raised within twelve inches of the surface at any time, and also in
sufficient quantity to flood the bog in the winter or spring.
CHAPTER 11.
GRAFTING AND BUDDING.
I. GRAFTS, CUTTINGS AND SEEDLINGS. II. THE GEATTER'S ART. III. HOW TO GRAFT. IV. TOOLS
rOR GRAFTING. V. GRAFTING BY APPROACH. VI. GRAFTING OLD ORCHARDS. VII. CUTTING
AND SAVING SCIONS. VIII. GRAl^TING WAX. IX. BUDDING. -X. WHEN TO BUD. XI. HOW
TO PREPARE 'IHE BUDS. XII. HOW TO BUD. XHI. SPRING BUDDING. ^XIV. TIME TO CUT
SCIONS. XV. GRAFTING THE GRAPE.
I. Grafts, Cuttings and Seedlings.
Slates
^ShE object of budding and grafting may be briefly stated. If the seed of a fruit
^*^ be planted, the tree or shrub growing from that seed will not bear fruit like that
from which the seed was taken. If, then, you wish to grow a certain choice
apple, peach, pear or other fruit, it is useless to keep the seed or " stone ^' of
that particular fruit and plant it. If it be an apple seed that you plant, the tree
growing from it would, certainly, produce apples; but they would, almost certainly,
be of quite another variety, and, perhaps, of a very inferior quality. It is, in fact,
by thus planting seeds and growing what are termed seedling-trees, or " seedlings,"
that new varieties are produced. Most are valueless — one in several thousand may,
by some chance, produce a new and, perhaps, splendid variety of the fruit. It is
very difficult to make fruit-tree cuttings (that is, branches cut off and put in the
ground) grow. If you cut a branch from a willow and put the cut end into the earth
it will at once form roots and become a tree ; a branch from a fruit-tree so treated
dies.
If, then, you have a tree bearing a certain choice variety of fruit, you may cause
the reproduction of the same choice variety thus : cut from the tree bearing the good
fruit "grafts " or " buds;" then take certain branches, or the main stem, of a value-
less tree of the same species and, having destroyed its natural shoots, "bud" or
" graft," as hereafter described, with your cuttings. By some law of nature the sap
which comes up the stem of that tree will, on entering the new wood made by the
portion grafted, produce fruit exactly like the tree from which the cutting has been
taken. Thus, with a stem of the same species, but of a different variety, you may
produce a tree all the top and branches of which will yearly give you a fruit unlike
what the original tree grew, but like to that grown upon the one from which your
shoots came. Note — ^the tree grafted and the one from which the graft is taken must
be of the same species. You cannot graft an oak with an apple, an apple tree with a
peach, a plum tree with a pear; but any variety of the same species may be grafted
with another.
31 [*81]
482
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
II. The Grafter's Art.
Ant boy or girl on a farm may easily learn to graft and bud. Except in the
more unusual kinds of grafting, that art is exceedingly simple, and budding requires
only nicety and care. Grafting is uniting a portion of a shoot (scion), containing one
or more buds, upon a " stock " or a root with a view to their union, and subsequent
growth. If varieties came true from seed, grafting and budding would be less impor-
tant than they now are. If fruits could ^ be readily propagated from cuttings, there
would be little use for grafting or budding, but they do not. Hence, grafting and
budding will always be necessary.
Grafting on the Farm. — On the farm, it will yearly be desirable, there being
but few orchards that will not require some change of varieties. If a tree, bush or
vine proves barren or long in coming into bearing, it may be made to fruit, by graft-
ing on it some earlier bearing variety. An unprofitable grape vine may be root-
grafted with a better sort. Stone fruits may be budded to varieties better adapted to
the climate and situation. Young seedlings are to be raised and grafted or budded
as required; grafting being usually employed for the apple and cherry, and budding
for the other orchard fruits. The peach, pear and plum should be budded, though
all the fruits may be grown by grafting, and the plum is, perhaps, as often thus prop-
agated as by budding.
III. How to Graft.
The usual modes of procedure are by "cleft grafting." and by "saddle graft-
ing" — the latter being little used except where the "stock" and "graft" are of
nearly the same size. The cut will explain the manner of fitting
this latter graft; No. 1 showing the two parts prepared, and No.
2 the parts accurately fitted. The whole art is to so fit the parts
that the liber or inner barks come naturally together, for this
insures the passage from one to the other of the "cambium," that
is to say the gummy fluid between the sap-wood and bark, from
which both wood and bark are formed. To ensure this the graft,
when inserted as hereafter shown, is generally slightly crossed with
the stock by pointing the top of the gi-aft somewhat inwards, by
which the union of the two is at some point made certain. The
whole is then covered with "grafting wax" to exclude moisture
and air. If the grafting be done in the spring, between the rising
of the sap and the putting out of the leaves, a proper union will
soon take place.
Hoot Grafting. — This is performed in precisely the same
No. 2. No. 1. manner as stock grafting; it being simply the proper union of the
"scion" upon a piece of root, say six inches long, and preferably,
that portion of the root of the year-old seedling next the crown of
the plant. Root grafting is usually performed late in winter. It is not necessary to
No. 1.
SADDLE
GRAFTING.
GRAFTING AND BUDDING.
483
describe the performance here, since it does not pertain to the farm, but is a part of
nursery woris now generally done with machines. Hence
the root grafts may be bought of nurserymen cheaper
than the work can be done on the farm by hand.
IV. Tools for Grafting.
The tools necessary for grafting on
the farm, are
a sharp panel saw, a keen pocket knife for paring the
stocks and sharpening the grafts, a grafting chisel or a
butcher knife, and a mallet for splitting the stocks, a wedge
for holding the split stock apart while placing the graft,
and grafting wax for spreading over the cut surfaces. A
grafting chisel and wedge combined is shown on page 484,
which any blacksmith can make, but in our own grafting
and budding we always use a knife like that shown in the
illustration of a Budding, Pruning and Grafting Knife, the
hooked, open blade of which makes a clean split without
tearing the bark ; an important thing to be remembered.
The half open blade shows the proper form for use in
budding, and is also the best shape for use in spaying and
gelding animals. If no better means are at hand, the point
of an old scythe, cut off and ground sharp, will serve to
split the stock, and is of the right form to prevent tearing
ihe bark.
Processes Illustrated. — In grafting, the illustrations
we give will show the whole art better than words. Fig. 1
shows a portion of the scion properly sharpened; Fig. 2, the
stock split and the grafts, of three buds each, properly
placed; Fig, 3 shows the end section of the stock and the
manner of placing the scion, so the inner bark, or liber, of
each may accurately meet. The manner of pointing the
scion in at the top is shown by the projection at the bottom
of the scion in Fig. 2. [See next page.]
Waxing. — Nothing remains to be described except
waxing. The wax must be soft enough easily to C9ver all
the parts, and care must be taken that the scions are not
moved from their places. Not one graft in ten need miss,
but to ensure one, and also hold the cleft secure, two are
usually inserted, as shown. If both grow, one should be
cut away.
V. Grafting by Approach.
BUDDING, PRUNING AND
GRAFTING liNIFE.
Sometimes it is necessary to graft "by approach." For instance, a tree may
484
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
have been so gnawed by mice or rabbits in the winter as to prevent the rise of sap.
In this case, when the tree cannot be immediately mounded up above
the wounded part, select in the spring branches, pared and shown
in the cut. Fig. 1, and fit in well at top and bottom so there will be
pressure, nail fast with slender nails,
cover the whole with cow manure and
clay, tempered together, and secure with
strong muslin firmly wrapped around
the whole and then fastened. The cut.
Fig. 2, shows another plans of grafting
by approach that may be used in any
tree, and is often used in working the
grape. A shows the branch to be
grafted on ; B a section of the stock to
be grafted; C the manner of paring
the scion; D the bark of the stock
opened; E F the parts united and
bound, and their relative positions.
Fig. 1.
GRA.FTING BY
APPROACH.
VI. Grafting Old Orchards.
Fig. 2.
GRAFTING BY APPKOACH.
An old orchard of unprofitable varieties may be grafted with superior fruits.
Only one-third of any such tree should, however, be grafted in one season. Thus it
will take three seasons to complete the operation. Cutting off and grafting the top
Fig 3.
END VIEW.
Fig. 1
SCION SHAEPENED
GRAFTING CHISEL AND WEDGE.
Fig. 2.
STOCK AND GRAFTS.
first gives the grafts there the best possible chance, while the necessary reduction of
the top throws the sap into the remaining side branches, which fits them well for
GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 485
grafting the following year; and, the third year, the lowest branches, being made
ready in the same way, may be grafted successfully. By this mode it will be seen
that, when the grafts are put in on the side branches, they are not shaded by the
heavy shoots above them, and they have an unusual supply of nourishment to carry
them forward. Those who have attempted to graft the whole head of a large tree at
once are best aware of the great difficulty in the common mode of getting the grafts
to take on the side limbs.
VII. Cutting and Saving Scions.
Scions may be taken at any time in winter when the trees are not frozen.
Select healthy twigs, of the current year's growth, with a terminal bud to each; let
the sticks of your scions be of nearly equal lengths; tie with three bands into
small bundles, not more than three inches through. Correctly label each bundle
according to the variety. This should be done with a tag, wired on, and also by
sticking a sharpened slip of wood in the top of each bundle, with the name plainly
marked. You may thus easily know the variety contained in each when the bundles
are packed away. Set these bundles in moist sand, moist sawdust, or in moist (not
wet) moss. Place in a cellar that will not freeze, and one that is secure from mice.
The cuttings will then keep in good order until wanted. Scions of the peach or plum
should be cut in autumn, since these trees are liable to be injured by severe weather.
VIII. Grafting- Wax.
Almost every professional grafter has his own formula for making grafting-
wax. Many use, instead, a mixture of blue clay and fresh cow-dung, kneaded and
beaten until it will work like putty. This really forms one of the best applications
for grafting, in a small way, upon nursery stocks; a ball of the mixture being
formed all around the mutilated stalk and graft. Grafting-wax is simply a compound
of rosin, tallow and beeswax, in such proportions as to admit of being easily applied
when softened by warmth, but not liable to melt and run in the sun's rays. A good
grafting-wax is made of three parts of rosin, three of beeswax, and two of tallow.
A cheaper composition, but liable to adhere to the hands, is made of four parts of
rosin, two of tallow, and one of beeswax. One of the best and cheapest consists of
one pint of linseed oil, six pounds of rosin, and One pound of beeswax. These
ingredients, after being, melted and mixed together, may be applied, when just warm
enough to run, by means of a brush; or may be spread thickly with a brush over
sheets of muslin, or thin, tough paper (manilla tissue paper), which are afterwards,
during a cold day, cut up into plasters of convenient size for applying ; or, the wax,
after cold, may be worked up with wet hands, and drawn out into thin strips or
ribbons of wax, and wrapped closely around the inserted graft. This is the better
way on the farm, and in all cases the wax should be closely pressed so as to fit
closely to every part, and leave no interstices, since it is indispensable that every
portion of the wound on the stock and graft be excluded from the air.
486 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
IX. Budding.
In relation to budding, the late Dr. Warder, in " American Pomology," wrote:
" It has been claimed in behalf of the process of budding, that trees, which have been
worked in this method, are more hardy and better able to resist the severity of winter
than, others of the same varieties, which have been grafted in the root or collar, and
also that budded trees come sooner into bearing. Their general hardiness will prob-
ably not be at all affected by their manner of propagation ; iQXcept, perhaps, where
there may happen to be a marked difference in the habit of the stock, such, for
instance, as maturity early in the season, which would have a tendency to check the
late growth of the scion placed upon it — ^the supplies of sap being diminished, instead
of continuing to flow into the graft, as it would do from the roots of the cutting or
root-graft of a variety which was inclined to make a late autumnal growth. Prac-
tically, however, this does not have much weight, nor can we know, in a lot of seed-
ling stocks, which will be the late feeders, and which will go into an early summer
rest."
X,' When to Bud.
The time for budding is before the tree has perfected its terminal bud, or during
that season when the bark may be separated from the wood. The late F. R. Elliott,
in an essay before the Ohio State, Agricultural Society, sums up the whole matter
concisely. He says:
" The time for insertion of buds into the stock for the purpose of changing the
kind of fruit, varies with the habit and character of both the tree to be propagated
and the stock on which it is to be worked. All buds, in order to be successful, must
be well ripened — ^that is, the tree on which they have formed, must have made its
terminal bud, or, in other words, the growth of the shoots must present a continua-
tion of perfect formed leaves to its point. This ripening of buds occurs earlier in
some varieties than in others ; usually early summei: fruits ripen their buds earlier
than winter sorts. Next, the stock in which the bud is to be inserted must be in a
vigorous, healthy condition, but apparently about to close its season's growth. Here
again comes the necessity before alluded to, of selecting in the seed-bed the different
habits of the young plants relative to early or late maturity. Through our northern
middle States, the usual time to commence budding the apple and pear is about the
10th to 15th of August. Further south they are in condition in June; and so on,
all the intermediate time, according to latitude and season; some seasons being
earlier than others by six to ten days.
" Such stocks as grow late in the season, should be budded late, because as new
layers of wood are constantly forming with every bud of extension in growth, it
follows, if the bud is inserted too soon, it must be covered and destroyed. On the
other hand, if the bud be inserted too late in the season, the cambium has acquired
consisten(;y, the ripened flow of sap is checked, and the bud having no powers in
unison, dies. The quince, therefore, from its habit of growing very late in the
season, should be the last to bud.
GEAPTING AND BUDDING.
487
XI. How to Prepare the Buds.
"If it is necessary, in order to have the buds ready to meet the
growth of the stock, that the scion or branch from which buds are
to be taken should be made to hasten its maturing of the buds, then
pinch off the end of the shoot one or two buds. In from eight to
twelve days the remaining buds will have ripened and fitted them-
selves for forming either new plants or branches. If this pinching
is done early ^n the season, and the branch left to remain on the
tree, the result is, the buds, after ripening, send out new branches,
and make a sort of second growth. If scions have to be brought
from a distance, or if it is desired to keep them several days, wrap
them first in damp moss, or failing that, a damp cloth ; then inclose
that in paper, and the whole in oiled silk. Other material will
answer, provided moisture and a cool temperature be kept around
and next them.
" When cutting the scion, select healthy branches of medium size
in growth, with full and perfect buds. Cut off the leaves, leaving
the foot stalks as shown in Fig. 2, next page, as soon as you have
taken the branch from the tree, as the leaves rapidly exhaust the
matter in the biid when its connection is separated from the root
and thus impair vitality.
Materials Necessary for Budding. — "Bands or strings
for tying the bud in its place after setting, are requisite ; these may
be of bass matting, such as is used in wrapping sheet iron or fur-
niture, and which may be also procured by getting the bark of our
common basswood in the spring or early summer, and laying it
awhile to soak in water, when the outer rind readily peels off, and the
inner bark peels into thin, strong, flat strips, that tie easily when wet ;
woolen-yarn, cotton-wicking and many other materials are used.
Anything thin, soft and strong will answer. Bass bark is the best,
and should always be wet just before using. A knife (Fig. 1) with
a thin blade, sometimes rounded at the point, and at the opposite end
a wedge-shaped piece of smooth ivory or bone is used.
XII, Ho-w to Bud.
" Holding the stock in your left hand, and with your knife in
the other, make first a perpendicular slit, two or three inches from
the ground, on the north or east side of the tree, and about one inch
long; then at the top of that slit, make a cross cut (Fig. 3); then
with the ivory end of the knife raise the bark a little at each corner
below the cross cut, being careful not to injure the cambium or
new layer of soft matter just underneath. Next take the scion in hand, set in the
Fig. 1.
BUDDING KNIFE.
488
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
knife half an inch above a bud (Fig. 2), resting the thumb of the knife-hand on the
scion just below the bud, and make a drawing cut just deep enough into the scion to
cut out the bud and a very thin piece of wood with it (Fig. 4), bringing out the
knife again half to three-quarters of an inch below the bud. This is the usual
length, although the bark may be shorter or longer without injury or benefit. Now
put the lower end of the bud into the top of the opening made in the stock, and
slide it down, until the bud is a little below the cross cut, and then cut off the end at
the cross cut. Next take your strip of bark or tieing, which should be (for ordinary
sized stocks) about half a yard long, and commencing at the bottom, wind around
with a steady, even, tight, but not hard strain, until you have covered the whole of
the cut, and left nothing to view but the bud (Fig. 5) ; then tie, by holding the last
turn around the stock or tree in one hand, winding again with the other, tucking the
end under as it comes round and drawing all tight.
}i
Fig. 3.
CEOSS
CUT.
Fig. 4.
BUD OUT
OUT.
TIEING
THE BUD.
Fig. 2.
CUTTING OUT THE BUD.
Terminal Budding.-^" A variety of budding, called terminal budding, is some-
times practiced, in order to use the last bud on a shoot. It is performed in the same
manner as above, only the tying has to be performed all below the bud.
XIII. Spring Budding.
"Although the summer is the time for most of budding operations, yet it some-
times happens that a new sort is obtained late in the spring, and, being valuable, it
is desirable to make every bud become a tree. The scions are, therefore, kept until
the trees have made leaves, when the buds are inserted in the usual manner, and as
soon as they are united the top of the stock is bent over or cut off, and the sap being
forced into the new set bud, it makes a good growth the same season.
GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 489
"The distance from the ground at which a bud should be inserted is a matter of
some disagreement among tree growers. In all dwarf trees, however, it is essential that
it should be near the ground, on account of the necessity of burying all the stock in
the soil when it is transplanted. Orchard trees are sometimes benefitted by being
worked high up on the stem ; as some of the best varieties appear to suffer injury
when worked near the earth, and to do well when worked high on a hardy seedling
stock. Budding may also be used to change the limbs or branches of a bearing tree,
as any branch of not over half to three-quarters inch diameter will answer to bud if
it is in a thrifty growing condition.
Care after Budding. — "In about a week or ten days after budding the buds
should be looked over, and if any have failed they may yet, if still growing, be
budded over.
Loosing Strings. — "In about two or three weeks the strings will require to be
loosened. Some will have to be retied, as if not so done the rapid growth will break
the strings before the bud becomes well united. Generally the strings may be all
cut loose in from three to four weeks after setting the bud. This is done by passing
a knife perpendicularly at the back of the bud or opposite side of the ti'ee.
Protection of Buds in Winter. — "In some locations it is found advisable for
the protection of the bud to earth up around and over them during the first winter.
This is done in large nurseries by a careful plowman ; in small grounds with the hoe
or spade. This is not necessary except in very cold, bleak situations, or in soils that
upheave badly in winter. During the winter the trees should be looked over, and
record made of the number and kinds of buds that have failed.
XIV. Time to Cut Scions.
"At any time during the winter, or from the fall of the leaf until the swelling of
buds in spring. Whenever the weather is mild scions may be cut for the purpose of
engrafting. The best time is immediately after the fall of the leaf.
Selection and How to Keep. — "Select well-ripened, thrifty shoots, of medium
sized wood, of the previous season's growth, from healthy trees. In cutting the
scion leave one or two buds of the last year's growth on the tree. 'It injures the tree
less. Scions cut at any time during the winter may be kept either by packing them
in layers with saw-dust, moss or clean sand in any cool place, such as a cellar, or
they may be buried in dry sand out-doors, and shielded from sun and rain by boards.
They should always be kept moist, but never wet. It is better to have them too dry
than too wet — as, if too dry, they can be buried in the earth and recovered; while,
if too wet, there is often a premature sweUing of the bud that destroys them, or they
are injured by saturation."
XV. Grafting the Grape.
Grafting the grape does not differ, essentially, from other grafting. The or-
dinary cleft-grafting upon the growing root is usually performed. Wax is not used
490 HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
since, the graft inserted, the earth is then drawn around the graft, which protects it
from air. The vine, however, must be grafted either in the winter, the early spring
before the sap has started, or so late tiiat, the leaves being" out, will prevent flooding
of the graft and its drowning from the bleeding of the root. Any one who has
pruned the vine in spring will easily understand this.
Vines may be laid down and grafted as late as mid-summer. Our advice is :
keep your grafts in a cool place until the vine is in full leaf; insert your scions in
the root, but leave at least a portion of the original vine, or stock, growing; wait
until your grafts have become securely to united the stock and have put forth leaves
of their own; then cut away the old vine. The leaves having formed on the new part
the sap will be, at least partly, absorbed bythem, and the " bleeding " be less.
CHAPTEE III.
VEGETABLE GARDENING.
ECONOMY OF THE GARDEN. ^11. HOW ONE MAN BECAME A GABDBNEE. III. STAETING A MARKET
GARDEN. IV. TROUGHS FOR FORCING PLANTS. V-. THE NUMBER OF PLANTS TO RAISE. VI.
THE HOT-BED. VII. LAYING UP THE HOT-BED. VIII. MARKET AND KITCHEN GARDENING.
IX. WATER AND VENTILATION. X. HOW TO HAVE EARLY RHUBARB. XI. " TAKE TIME BY THE
FORELOCK." XII. WHAT TO RAISE FOR MARKET. XIII. ECONOIiIY IN CULTIVATION. XIV.
PREPARING VEGETABLES FOR MARKET. XV. HOW TO RAISE POTATOES. XVI. "PLANTING IN
THE MOON." XVII. POTATOES ILLUSTRATED.
I. Bconomy of the Garden.
^TEANGE to say, the family table of nearly every other man of equal, means is
better suppUed with vegetables than that of the farmer. So few, indeed, have
H^ good gardens, that the class may almost be said to do without fresh vegetable
food. Why is this so? The majority with whom we have talked, have freely
admitted their short-comings in this respect, but excused themselves by saying they
THE WEALTH OF THE GARDEN.
could not afford the time to " potter " in the garden. Here lies the principal diffi-
culty. It is pottering work according to the old fashioned way of cultivating every-
thing in narrow rows and small beds. Eead over again. Chapter I, Section I, of this
Part, then apply the same common sense here that you do in the cultivation of field
crops, and you may raise half the food of the family on a single acre, at an average
outlay of about forty dollars. The same labor and money applied to the corn field,
will raise, say, six acres of corn. It will produce $200 worth of garden stuff, none
too much for the average farmer's family.
Garden Cultivation. — Potatoes, early corn, okra, cabbage, early peas, summer
[491J
492
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL,
squash, etc., may be grown in three-feet rows; late peas and tomatoes, in five-feet
rows; muskmelons, cucumbers, etc., in six-feet rows; watermelons, in eight-feet
rows, and squashes and pumpkins, in twelve-feet rows. Asparagus and pie plant
should have four feet between the rows ; beets,
cauliflowers, early cabbage, carrots, parsnips and
onions, two feet; and the smaller plants, such as
the radish, lettuce, spinach, and all the so-called
bedded plants, eighteen inches between the rows.
All these garden vegetables, except the bedded
plants, may be cultivated almost entirely with the
horse and cultivator, the thinning being about the
only work that need be done by hand. The whole
cultivation of bedded plants, and the close cultiva-
tion, when young, of all others, except the gross growers, may be managed with the
hand cultivator.
II. How One Man Became a Gardener.
The following account of how one woman, to whom the writer gave advice, suc-
ceeded in having a good garden, will show that anyone may do the same if the
husband consents.
HAND CULTIVATOR.
PHINXEY'S EARLY MELON.
EARLY DWARF PEAS.
LONG SCARLET RADISH.
Mrs. Speedwell, the wife of a well-to-do farmer, near the largest city in the Mis-
sissippi valley, was lamenting to a neighbor, Mrs. Goodman, that her great trouble
was the want of fresh fruits and vegetables, when the following coUoquy ensued :
" Why do you not ask your husband to lay out a garden and have it taken
care of?"
VEGETABLE GARDENING. 493
" Oh, it is of no use. My husband says it is cheaper to buy our vegetables. He
cannot spare time nor have the bother ; the consequence is the vegetables are never
fresh, for I have to order them from' the city. I really would not mind working in
the garden myself if I only knew how; but, indeed, it is about all I can do, with the
help of Jane, to take care of the flowers and my house."
" Oh," replied her friend, "it is easy enough. Do it by proxy. Buy a good
practical book on fruit and gardening, and get your husband interested. Get him to
have the garden plowed, harrowed, and nicely raked, and hire the hard work done
under your own supervision. Any iptelligent man can take care of a garden if he is
properly directed."
"Yes, the men know enough — at least to keep out of the garden, but they dearly
like good fruits and vegetables. I have often envied you your nice garden. Your
husband really has a talent that way."
" Has he? Yes, that is true, but it is an acquired one."
' ' Indeed ! How did it come about ? ' '
" Well, I was once in the same strait that you are. At length I took the initia-
tive. After coaxing and coaxing I induced my husband to have me a piece of ground
manured, plowed and harrowed. By hook and by crook I had it cultivated. I
planted strawberries and some other small fruits. We had plenty of vegetables, and
the second year, strawberries, some raspberries and blackberries and a few currants.
My husband never went near the garden, but I could see the satisfaction with which
he enjoyed its products, and I noticed, also, that we never had any trouble with the
hired men. In fact I get many an hour's work from them, and they an occasional
nice dish in pay. The third spring I took my husband into the garden and lamented
that it had really grown beyond my powers, and how sorry I was that the good living
we had enjoyed must now cease."
" That would be a pity," he said, " but, really, it is of no use to set a hired man
to work here, and I really have not the time to do it. Nor is it right that you should
have the care and supervision of it: I suppose we must go back to the old way of
getting stale things from the city."
" An apparently bright thought struck me. I say apparently, for, of course, 1
had the plan all laid out. If, said I, a good man could be spared me three days a
week, during April, May and June, I think I could manage it."
"Oh," my husband replied, "hire a man constantly if you like," and, after
going into a brown study for a few moments, he said, "Jenny, I think I'll learn
gardening myself, and after this year, take the vhole thing off your hands. That
garden is worth more than any ten acres on the farm. And it really seems not to
cost much beyond a little clever care."
" But then, every man is not like your husband nor mine. It is really surprising
how so many farmers are content to live year after year without the comfort of a
good garden, with its health-giving fruits, and wealth of vegetables, which should
constitute more than half the living of the family."
494 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
"That is true enough," replied Mrs. Speedwell, "though, perhaps, a great
deal of the fault really lies with the wives, in not knowing
how to manage their husbands, as you do. A man, of course,
must have a human heart to be managed by kindness. I can,
at all events, now see my way clear to have a good garden,
and I think I see how I may get my beloved flowers taken care
of also. By the way, I wish to speak for some of your
Martynia again this year, for pickles. Next season I hope
to have a garden of my own."
III. Starting a Market Garden.
MAKTYNIA.
The general principles relating to gardening will apply to
either market or kitchen gardening, as raising of vegetables for family use is usually
called. The young man who expects to succeed .in raising vegetables for the market,
whether exclusively in the open air or in connection with the use of hot beds, must be
guided by business tact quite as much as in any other business. He must carefully
look over the ground to inform himself as to what will pay best and how much of
each variety will be needed. If facilities. for shipping to large markets are good, the
glass, (hot beds) may be increased in proportion, since not only will glass-grown
lettuce and radish be in demand, but this increased area of glass will be needed for
starting tomato, egg plant, cucumber, melons and summer squash. Crops raised
entirely under glass had better be confined pretty much to lettuce, as there is always
a demand for this salad plant, while that for radish, unless most carefully grown, is
slow. The product is always inferior, while lettuce properly grown under glass sells
better than that grown in the open air, and the improved means of transportation now
allow lettuce to reach, in good condition, a destination 200 or 300 miles north of where
it is grown.
The Local Market. — If, on the other hand, the market be local, the gardener
must fully understand just how much of a certain article he can sell, and this must
be found by inquiry. The hotel, or hotels of a village or city and the well-to-do
inhabitants will furnish the customers for forced lettuce, radish, mint and rhubarb.
These two latter must be provided for in advance. The second season will furnish
mint roots for forcing, while at least three years will be required to furnish rhubarb
for the same purpose. Local markets, however, will furnish customers for but very
little mint, and not much glass-forced rhubarb, but it may consume a very consider-
able quantity forced in a warm and partially lighted cellar. Thus while but little
forcing exclusively under glass will be required, enough must be provided to at least
start such plants as will be required to be transplanted into hot beds, covered with
muslin.
IV. Troughs for Forcing Plants.
Many things, in fact, as squash, melons, cucumbers, okra, Lima beans, sweet
VEGETABLE GARDENING. 495
potatoes, etc., are better started over a gentle heat of fermenting manure, . protected
at night by a covering of boards, than in any other way.
All except the last-n'amed are planted in the frame, in
troughs of boards filled with earth not earlier than ten days
before they should be outside. They may thus be kept
until the weather is permanently warm before transplanting,
the vines, for instance, until they begin to show signs of
SWEET POTATO AND running, and then may be transplanted safely, when all pos-
sible danger of frost or cold nights is passed, or say, when
the same vegetation, planted outside, is making its first rough leaves. Thus you
may have your plants fully hardened by exposure to the open air before trans-
planting, and at the same time be fully two weeks in advance of those grown
entirely in the open air. These open air hot-beds are so important to all, and
especially to farmers, who thus may force all their vegetables, that a full description
of the process will be important.
Making the Trougll. — The troughs for the plants are made by sawing ordi-
nary cull fencing and siding into lengths of three feet each ; nail a piece of siding
against the edge of a piece of fencing and you have the half of a square trough.
So proceed until you have enough of these half troughs to cover the surface desired.
The front of one trough forms the back of another, and thus you have a series of
sections running the whole length of the bed that will be each six inches wide. Each
one of these three feet troughs will form six squares of six inches each, or thirty-six
square inches in all; enough space for the largest transplantable plant. They may
be loaded into a wagon as they were in the bed, and be safely driven long distances to
the field, and, if carefully broken apart, even squashes and Lima beans may be thus
transplanted and continue their growth without feeling another change than the chill
incident to removal, and if they have been properly hardened (exposed to air in the
bed), this will be slight.
The Frame. — The frame to protect the bed should be made of rear boards, say
eighteen inches high by one foot for those at the south side, and with strips across
from front to rear to properly stiffen them. Thus the bed may be made of any
length by using 2x6 scantling as uprights where one board is joined to another, 2x4
scantling being sufficient for the end pieces, upon which to nail the end boards to
connect the front and rear. Three-inch strips of inch boards nailed across the top
from front to rear at intervals of six feet will fully strengthen the whole. Thus a
bed six feet wide and sixteen feet long will contain sjxty of the troughs we have men-
tioned, and each trough six plants, or 360 plants in all. Every farmer, should prepare
at least this number.
We illustrate some of the more important vegetables on next page.
V. The Number of Plants to Raise.
The proportion may be as follows, but should be varied to suit the particular
496
THE HOME AND FAJRM MANUAL.
wants of the planter: Tomatoes, 150; egg plant 15; cabbage, 25; cauliflower, 25.
All these should be transplanted into the troughs, from hot-bed green plants, and
TRIPOLI ONION.
DANVER'S YELLOW
GLOBE ONION.
PEPPERS.
CARROTS.
CELERY.
PARSNIPS.
FRENCH BREAKFAST RADISH.
SUMMER GOLDEN CROOKNECK SQUASH.
EGG PLANT.
form one compartment. The seeds of the other plants, summer squash, winter
squash, water-melon, musk-melon, cucumber, of each 15; Lima beans, 50, and okra.
VEGETABLE GARDENING. 497
20 ; being planted in regular rotation. The reason for this is that the transplanted
plants will need extra protection, even cabbage and cauliflower being better for it,
and the two latter will be great, lusty plants when' transferred to the open ground
the middle of May, in latitude of, say 42 degrees. If these boxes are placed back in
the frame, celery may be pricked in three inches apart and will furnish a nice lot of
plants by the first of July.
VI. The Hot-bed.
The heating material — fermenting horse-manure — should be laid in the bottom
of the bed, about fourteen inches thick, and an inch of earth put over all to form a
level surface for the troughs, which must be filled with the best compost of one-half
friable loam — sandy loam preferable — and one-half thoroughly rotted manure inti-
mately mixed. Old hot-bed manure and earth laid in a heap the previous season and
turned two or three times is the best. Now,
if the farmer has, in addition to this, a hot-bed
frame of four sashes, three feet four inches
wide by six feet long, he may not only raise
lettuce for his family, but also have space
enough for tomato, egg-plant, cabbage, cauli-
flowers, kohl rabi, lettuce, celery, etc.^ for
transplanting, either into the open frame we
have mentioned, or directly into the open air, the farm hot-bed.
or both, for the frame will accommodate extra
early samples, while the general crop of hardy plants may go safely into the open
air as soon as danger of severe white frosts is over. But remember always, never
transplant from the hot-bed into the open air without at least ten days hardening to
the weather. Hence, for the farm garden, the necessity of the open frame, for,
without it, the air required for cabbage, for instance, might be fatal to the tender
plants.
Spring Forcing, — ^For spring forcing, a special hot-bed may be made up about
the first of January, and the plants slowly grown until large enough to prick out, say
about the middle of February. The plants should be pricked out, dibbled or fingered
in two and a half inches each way, and w:th not less than two feet of bottom heat,
green horse-manure, which has been turned often enough before putting into the bed
not to heat violently. This must be taken from a heap sufficiently large not to have
become chilled. If there is any suspicion that it will be slow, if dry it may be
assisted by using hot water to moisten it. The management of the manure can only
be learned by experience. Until this experience is gained, it is better not to put on
the compost earth in which the plants are to grow, until satisfied that the heat is rising
kindly. If a heat of sixty degrees is indicated inside the bed in the morning, it is
just right. When one becomes expert the earth may be put on immediately after lay-
ing up the manure, and the bed be planted the second day, if still, and the outside
temperature is right — ^that is, above the freezing point.
32
498 THE HOIME AND FAEM MANUAL.
VII. Laying up the Hot-Bed.
The best manure is that ma(Je by horses fully fed on grain, and bedded with hay
or straw. Manure mad« with sawdust bedding is apt to heat violently and burn itself
out quickly. If, however, it be tempered with tan bark, it makes an excellent heating
material. The next best tempering material is the chaff of straw. If neither of these
can> be obtained, the manure must be tempered by turning often enough (every three
days) to get the rank heat out of it, and cause it to heat slowly and equally. This
may be assisted by pretty hard and evenly tramping the material when la}ing it up in
the bed. Once the proper management of sawdust or shaving manure is learned, it
makes an excellent material. In laying up the manure, choose a still day, as wind is
pretty sure to destroy the heat. In preparing the manure for the bed, it is often
necessary to add water, to bring it to a proper state of moisture, and one object in
turning it several times in the heap is to promote a uniform state of moisture in the
pile. If, however, water is added, it should be warm — unless the manure be very
hot — and given from a fine rose water pot.
Tlie Pressure. — All that is required in laying up is that the hard lumps, if any,
be thrown out, and that the whole be laid equally, so it will settle evenly. The less
firm the manure is laid, the faster and stronger it will heat. If there be too much press-
ure, it will heat too slowly. Hence, the amount of tramping is important. Our plan
is to tramp the whole lightly, especially next the sides, three or four times in laying
up a bed two feet thick, in addition to that employed with the fork in discovering if it
is laid true. The manure all in, the surface is made perfectly smooth and even, and
the finer manure that may not have been taken up on the fork, is then spread evenly
over the surface, and six inches of the prepared earth is thrown over all. If the
earth is frozen, such portions should lie around the edges of the frame, that they may
thaw gradually and perfectly, before the whole is finally raked smooth.
The Soil for Hot-Beds. — The best soil for the bed is a rich, hght, sandy loam,
to which has been added one-third of its bulk of fully decomposed horse manure.
That formed of rotted sods is the best earth material. A clay soil should never be
used. The soil must be one that will, under no circumstances, become pasty. Once
you have formed your soil, preserve it carefully from year to year in a conical heap
when removed from the beds in summer, adding, from time to time, .such fresh soil
and hot-bed manure as may be needed. Six inches of soil is sufficient for forcing
general crops, and eight inches for asparagus. If rhubarb is forced, the entire roots
are to be bedded upon three inches of earth, as closely together as possible, afterwards
fining in so the crowns are just covered, packing the earth well about the roots. If
the earth settles away from the crowns, in three or four days, add more. Neither of
tlicse, however, generally pay for forcing nowadays by the market gardener; on the
farm they may. They may be transported long distances from the South. "VVlicn
forced, a half lighted cellar, or the space under the staging of a green-house is util-
ized. The cellar is kept at about fifty degrees, or somewhat less. ^Nlore than this
nverace heat should not be given in the hot-bed.
VEGETABLE GARDENING. 499
Winter Forcing. — Double walls of the hot-bed for winter forcing should ex-
tend to the top upon which the glass is placed, and the tan bark filling between the
walls should have a width of at least six inches. The glass should be carefully
bedded in thin putty, carefully trimmed, and well glazed. All the points and fittings
should be fairly tight. The lower end of the frame should be about eight inches
above the ground, the rear twelve inches. From ten to twelve inches between the
soil and glass is sufficient for any of the plants generally forced, since the nearer they
are to the glass the less liable will they be to " draw," as spindling up is called.
VIII. Market and Kitchen Gardening.
Market gardening differs from kitchen gardening only in degree. In the kitchen
garden only such articles are raised as may suit the taste of the family. The market
gardener must not only cater to the taste of all, but larger quantities must be raised,
and here again the forcing of plants is entered into more largely, according to the
size and wealth of the city or village, while the farmer is gener-
ally content with forcing plants for transplanting rather than
the raising of a crop entirely under glass.
For the village market gardener, the 1st of January or the
1st of February will usually be time enough for starting the hot-
bed. The farmers will not usually do so until the 1st of March
in latitude forty degrees and north. If only a cold frame, or
better, a slight hot-bed is required, the 1st of April will be quite
soon enough for starting the bed. In this may be sown lettuce,
mint, parsley, cabbage, cauliflower, kohl rabi, celery and tomato.
Egg-plant, for the family garden, is better sown in a box, to be kohl rabi
kept in a warm, sunny window until large enough to prick out
in the bed, and the same is true of tomatoes when not more than 100 or 200 plants
are wanted.
Pricking Out. — Pricking out plants in the frame is simple enough. Having
reduced the soil to the finest possible tilth, thinning out all lumps that can be
gathered with a fine rake, place a wide board in the bed to stand on, and lay off your
spaces with a form, made by inserting three-eighths inch short pegs, three inches
apart, in a strip of wood, the rows to be three inches apart. With the fingers
deepen the hole, drop in the roots of the plants and press the earth rather firmly to
it, and so proceed until the required space is filled. Tomato, cabbage, and all that
class of plants may be set so a good part of the stalk is covered, and when two
inches high will be fully large enough. Lettuce and that class of i)lants may be
1? ricked in when of a size to handle, but must not be set below the first leaves. A
little practice will soon make one adept at planting. When the plants begin to fairly
cover the ground, take out every other row, and transplant six inches apart in
another part of the bed, and again every other plant in the remaining rows. At
this distance they may remain until ready to be finally set out of doors, but cabbage,
500
THE HOME AXD FAEM MAOTjAL.
cauliflowers, kohl-rabi, lettuce, parsley, and all pot herbs, may be transplanted to
the open air when they cover the ground at three inches apart. Many good gar-
deners do not allow these more than two
inches and a half each way.
IX. Water and Ventilation.
When a bed is first set it may need
some shade the first few days, and if so
the glass may be kept pretty close. When
the plants begin to grow, do not water too
often; water when needed, just so the
moisture will not drip much into the heat-
ing manure below, and always with water
slightly warm, if possible, and preferably
in the afternoon, about an hour before
covering the bed for the night.
Ventilation is an important matter.
The more air is given, the better and more
healthy the plants will be. Therefore, give
air whenever the outside temperature will
admit, and always tilt the sash so the wind
will not blow directly on the plants. When
the wind is considerable, the ordinary
frame wiU usually get sufficient air through
the cracks, except the sun is very warm.
This is another of those points where no
definite rule is applicable. The proper
amount of ventilation must be gained by experience. The beginner is apt to give
too little. Do not be afraid of air, but avoid strong drafts. The slower a plant is
grown in the hot-bed, the stronger it will be when finally transplanted into the
open air.
Many gardeners, who do a large business, and are near to large cities, have great
green-houses for forcing vegetables, principally lettuce. The cut shows cucumbers,
of the long English fancy sorts, grown on trellises next the roof. We have grown
them over twenty inches long, but they are in no wise superior to our short varieties.
• X. How to Have Early Rhubarb.
The market o-ardener has his soil as rich as manure will make it. He sets out
one-third of the space to be occupied by rhubarb every spring— ^giving him a three
rears' rotation. All the large roots not required for eyes for the new bed, and that
are dug from the older portion of the oldest plantation are reserved for forcing. The
farmer should do the same. In heu of this a bed should certainly be set in the most
GROWING CUCUMBERS SUSPE^-DED FROM GREEN
HOUSE TRELLIS.
VEGETABLE GARDENING. 501
sheltered position possible. Cover this in the autumn with fine manure, to be dug in
the spring; set old barrels without heads or bottoms over the crowns of the plants,
in the spring, and it will be found profitable. If you get one cent a pound for the
surplus it will pay. Try it.
It is to be hoped every farmer has carefully read the directions for planting the
home orchard and garden, so as to economize labor, and has already made prepara-
tions to begin in time. Do not allow other work to prevent so doing. Better hire a
little extra help if necessary. Cheap help, properly directed, can handle manure and
do all the rough work, and any of the better class of seedsmen's catalogues will direct
as to sowing and general care; but, make rows clear across the garden, and giVe
space enough between the rows to save hand labor. This is important — one year will
give you strawberries; two years will give you rhubarb; three years asparagus,
currants, gooseberries, raspberries and blackberries; three to five years will give you
cherries and peaches and some apples and pears, and from that time on an abundance.
XI. "Take Time by the Porelock."
*
Do NOT be in too great a hurry to begin in the spring, but when the soil is in
good condition to work — that is when it is quite friable — lose no time. Plant peas,
beets, carrots, parsnips, onions, salsify, radish, lettuce, etc., as
early as the soil may be worked; corn, bush-beans, and other
half-hardy plants as soon as danger of white frosts is over, and
at the same time transplant from the hot-bed or cold frame,
lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, kohl-rabi; also, parsley, sage, mint
and other pot herbs. Squash, cucumbers, melons, pole beans,
okra, tomato and egg-plant should not go out until the nights as
well as the days are warm, and all these should be transplanted
from the troughs from cold frames we have named, rather than
be planted by seed. Once the planting is done, it is simply to
keep the soil clean and gather the produce. If you provide okea.
yourself with the same class of modern garden implements that
you do with farm implements, this cultivation is neither onerous nor difiicult.
A plank, a leveler and a smoothing harrow will fit the garden nicely. A modern
seed sower will sow any seed correctly and evenly, and a wheel hoe will accomplish
the cultivation next the rows better than it can be done with a hand hoe, and after
the plants get up a little, any good, one-horse cultivator will work in 'rows not less
than two feet wide.
XII. What to Raise for Market.
In gardening for market, the grower must be guided by the circumstances
governing the case. He must raise that which will suit the taste of his customers.
This he must find out and cater for. It is what makes success. The reverse makes
failure.
50:* THE HOME AXD FABM MAXUAL.
There are, however, certain lines of products that sell alwaj-s and everywhere —
potatoes, green corn, tomatoes, lettuce, radish, onions, beets, carrots, jiarsnips,
salsify, string and shell beans, peas, asparagus, rhubarb, cabbage, cauliflower, kohl-
rabi, are all staples, but here again the quantity desired must always be governed b\-
the demand of the locality.
Yet, the gardener, if he have tact and business energy, may easily set rid of
additional supphes of even these staples, by introducing them among families who
are in the habit of buying few, if anj', vegetables. In other words, the demand in
any communit}' should be an increasing one, and will be, if only the gardener
njiderstands his business.
Take lettuce, for instance. Many famihes will not buy hot-bed lettuce, because
they erroneously suppose it must necessarily cost many times more than that raised in
the open air. This every gardener knows is not so when the plants are started under
glass and transplanted. Even if such things were sold at first at little or no profit,
customers would be secured who would afterwards look for this class of products
before they could be raised entirely in the open air, and again one sale would lead
the way to others and different classes of vegetables.
The same will apply to all vegetables that the gardener, with his superior facili-
ties, can bring forward several days sooner than the kitchen gardener, and here must
his full exertion be used to induce sales of all the vegetables usually raised by the
inhabitants of the smaller towns and villages.
Coming now to those vegetables not generally raised in village or farm gardens,
and to the common vegetables raised for a continuous supply, gi-een corn will
always be found to sell very early and very late. So will string beans, peas, cabbage
and cauliflower. Lima beans should always sell, and for the reason that the average
cultivators of kitchen gardens will not give the necessary care to ensure success, the
great fault being too early planting. In this direction lie also sweet potatoes, okra,
earl_\' cucumber, melons, squash, egg plant, etc. With okra and egg plant tact must
be used. The healthfulness of the first must be asserted and the delicacy of the
second must be stated, and not content M-ith this, samples may be given, with careful
directions for cooking. Every person who has a garden should raise all these;
where there is a competent gardener, some of them can probably be bought fully as
cheajDly as they can be raised.
Mint, sage and other pot herbs should always form a part of the stock of the
village market gardener. If he have them the surplus can always be shipped, after
drying in the shade, and sooner or later customers will increase at home.
Small fruits should not be neglected. Strawberries, blackberries, raspberries,
currants and gooseberries should play an important part in the profits of the garden.
What are not sold may be canned, and if not to be sent beyond the village market,
the common seahng-wax, now sold by all grocers, for self-sealing, will keep any fruit
perfectly. Celery should be persistently kept before customei's during the season.
Once a customer gets used to buying it you may always be sure of selling to him
VEGETABLE GAEDENING. 503
thereafter. Above all have a good stock for wiiiter and sjiring. It is so easily raised
as a secondary crop, and so easily saved, that it is a wonder that all who cannot buy
it of their gardener should neglect to raise it at home.
XIII. Economy in Cultivation.
One great advantage that the market gardener has over those who raise their
vegetables in confined village gardens, is that a far greater economy of labor may be
had in the first case than in the latter. The market gardener can plant in long lines,
and do the most of the cultivation by horse power. So can the farmer, for land is
plenty. The village gardener must do most of the work by hand. The market
gardener and the farmer can plow, harrow, level and sow by machineiy. A wheel
hoe will do all the weeding except thinning out. The one-horse cultivator and harrow
and horse hoe will do all the cultivating of any crops planted twenty inches or more
apart. We should give fully this space to onions, and two feet to all other root or
bulb crops. Too close planting is, in fact, the great mistake made by the average
country market gardener. We have always given three feet between rows to aspara-
gus, and made money by so doing in cultivation and size of the stems.
Another mistake made is in stinting manure. If well prepared (composted) you
cannot have too much of it. After the first year it will begin to tell, and once the
soil is full of manure, your profit is certain. It costs no more to cultivate a well
manured acre than a hungry one, in fact, not so much, since the plants grow faster,
and sooner cover the ground. Therefore, do not be afraid of manure.
XIV. Preparing Vegetables for Market.
Peepahing and bunching the vegetables for market is of the first -importance.
Wash all roots clean, bunch in convenient hands all that are sold with their tops
attached and tie securely at the necks. Lettuce should be cut with a portion of the
root attached, the head divested of all dying leaves, washed and neatly packed, so it
will show its full size and length when taken out. Pot herbs should be washed by
rinsing, and neatly tied in small bunches. Tomatoes should not be washed, but rub-
bed off, if necessary, when they are dry.
Egg plant and all other smooth fruits should be rubbed with a soft cloth to
polish them. Peas and beans should be rinsed free of dirt and grit. Cucumbers
and fruits that are covered with a bloom should be cleaned by sprinkling, so as to
preserve this as far as possible intact. Cabbage and cauliflower should be divested
of all supernumerary leaves, but the most of the leaves should be left on kohl-rabi.
Green corn may or may not have a part of the husk removed, but the butt
should always be cut or broken fairly close to the ear. You cannot deceive any one
with long shanks, even if you wished to, which of course you do not. It is attention
to minor details in gardening, as in any other business, that wins success.
It should be unnecessary to say that the garden should always be free from
weeds, and the drives cleaned of trash every day. This, besides being economical,
504
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
is also a good advertisement, for especially in country f)laces, a well-kept garden
will be more or less a place of resort, and if you have a taste for flowers it will
gradually become more and more so, and these gradually will also come to add to
the profits, for bouquets and plants will be. bought.
XV. Ho"W to Haise Potatoes.
Potatoes on the farm are too often raised in some corner, where nothing else
can be grown, and hence most farmers have neither enough in quantity nor the best
in quality. There is no crop that pays better for extra care than the potato. If
those farmers who think they can better afford to buy than to plant them will try the
DIAGRAMS SHOWING HOW TO CUT POTATOES TO SAVE SEED.
following plan, they will be convinced of their mistake : Select a piece of land the
second year from the sod, or else a piece of stubble land enriched with not less than
forty loads of half -rotten manure per acre, all which has in the fall been plowed
under to the depth of, say, eight inches. In the winter draw on ten more loads of
fine manure to the acre: plow this under about four inches deep, and, as early as the
ground will work friably, harrow the land.
Furrow out three feet apart and drop a piece (cut as shown in the diagrams,
VEGETABLE GAKDENING. 505
herewith) every ten inches in the furrow. If cut in the ordinary way drop a piece
every fifteen inches, stepping on every piece. Cover by throwing two light furrows
forming a ridge. When the weeds appear, harrow the ground lengthwise of the rows,
with a two-horse harrow turned upside down. If
weeds again appear before the potatoes are up,
again throw up the two furrows to cover, and
again harrow down just as the potatoes appear
above ground. Do not be afraid of killing the
potatoes. We have harrowed them when they
were three inches high. The after cultivation
consists simply in slightly earthing up the plants
from time to time with a shovel plow, until the
buds appear. If weeds appear after that, the potatoes as they shouid gkow
large ones must be pulled out by hand. In a
good season the crop will look like the cut, " Potatoes as they should grow."
To harvest them, if you have a large field, get a potato digger; if not, plow two
furrows away from each row, and dig the balks with a potato fork. That is about
all there is to potato culture, except storing.
When they are dug, put in compact piles in the field, cover liberally with potato
tops, or slough hay, and six inches of earth well smoothed down to turn rain. Just
before cold weather take them to the cellar, or place in pits for the winter, as
directed in Part II., Chapter VIII., Section XXXIII.
In planting potatoes, do not delay too long. Plant about the time you sow oats,
for unless the potatoes get their growth before drought and heat sets in you reduce
the crop. Potatoes will not stand drought or heat. They are a moisture-loving and
cool weather plant. Good crops however, are, sometimes raised if planted about the
twentieth of June. Then they have the advantage of the late rains and cool nights
of autumn to mature. Above all do not "plant in the moon," hoping to get a
superior crop.
XVI. Planting in the Moan.
We generally plant early potatoes just as soon as the frost is out of the ground
and the soil settled, and for the general crop as soon thereafter as convenient — always
before corn-planting time. Why? Because, if you do not get a good growth to
your vines before hot and dry weather sets in, the crop is pinched. With earlier
varieties it insures the crop ripe in August, and with late varieties, like peachblows,
it gives them what they require, the whole season to grow and the cool, autumn to
ripen in.
There is just this much in the moon theory and no more : plants do grow faster
in light nights, probably, than in dark ones ; and thus such plants as come up quickly,
planted when the moon is new, may, with favorable weather, grow faster ; and pota-
toes, which are slow in germinating, planted after the full of the moon, and coming
506
THE HOME AXD FARSI JIANUAL.
up when the nights are hght, may, under favorable circumstances, seem to grow
faster; but that there is any difference in the outcome, no careful experiments made
have ever shown.
XVII. Potatoes Illustrated.
A WORD now in relation to the illustration of potatoes on this page. They
were not selected as representing the best kinds. Early Ohio and Chicago Market
t i T?' Vj
DAKOTA BED.
Belle.
Chicago Makkjst.
Arundel Rose.
Eakly Ohio.
POTATOES ILLUSTRATED.
Glakk, No. 1.
are old, well-known and excellent early varieties ; the others are newer. We have
chosen them as showing the principal forms assumed by the potato from nearly round
to irregularly round, and also as indicating, relative sizes. As a rule, medium sized
varieties are best; the very large ones inferior.
CHAPTER IV.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
I. THE FLOWER GARDEN. II. HOW TO CULTIVATE FLOWERS. III. SELECT LIST OF FLOWERS FOR
GENERAL CULTIVATION. IV. BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. V. SUMMER FLOWERING
BULBS. ^VI. FLOWERING PLANTS AND VINES— ROSES. VII. FLOWERING SHRUBS. VIII. CLIMB-
ING AND TRAILING SHRUBS IX. FLOWERING TREES. X. EVERLASTING FLOWERS AND ORNA-
MENTAL GRASSES. XI. WATER PLANTS. XII. TRELLISES.
1^^^ I. The Flower Garden.
15^HE vegetable garden is properly the province of the master of the farm ; the
flower garden is preeminently the home of feminine art and taste. However
CRESTED MOSS ROSES— ILiLF SIZE.
small the village or city lot, flowers may smile up from it to the sun, and call down
blessings from the admiring passer-by upon the fair and skillful hands that have
tended them. In no place do they more improve and refine the surroundings, and
show the beauty of feminine taste and culture than upon the farm. An ample lawn
[607]
508
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
studded with ornamental shrubs and trees, a bed cut out here and there, or a smiling
parterre where these lovely gifts of nature have been taught by care and skill to
bloom, fill the soul with an harmonious joy. All long for the beautiful. All love
flowers. But many, ignorantly, suppose that flowers cost so much in time and money
that only the wealthy may enjoy them. They are within the easy reach of all. The
common flowers are, as a rule, as beautiful as the rarer ones. Perennial flowering
plants, or their seeds, once planted, remain year after year, increasing in beauty with
each successive season until they arrive at their full perfection.
II. How to Cultivate Flowers.
The principal mistake made in the cultivation of flowers, is permitting them to
be smothered while young, by weeds. Many of the common varieties, which sovf
themselves by their seeds, remaining in the ground during the winter, manage to
make a pretty successful struggle with their enemies, the weeds, but the plants are
PANSIES
MOSS rmii. (PHLOX subulata.)
so crowded as to detract much from their beauty. This is why, in the country, so
much attention is paid to perennials, that is to say, the plants or flowers that live
from year to year. If. the directions here given are followed, the cultivation of
annuals will cost less labor, they will come much earlier to perfection, and be, in
every respect, better than if sown in the open ground. All that is necessary is to
prepare, about the time field plowing begins, a small hot-bed, as described in the
chapter on Vegetable Gardening; or a cold frame (a bed covered with sashes), in
which latter case, the seeds shotild not be sown therein, until just after the time
for i^lanting spring wheat.
Having prepared the bed and put in six inches of clean, fine mold, sow the
flower seeds in lines four inches apart between rows, putting down a peg marked
with the name of each variety sown. When large enough to transplant, pick the
plants out into another frame, place them two inches apart, and here let them stand
GARDEN FLOWERS AND StlRUBS.
509
until they are ready to go out of doors. Take up with earth about the roots, lay on
trays, and they are easily and safely carried to where they are to grow.
There are but few annuals that, treated in this way, will not transplant kindly.
Sweet peas, candytuft, etc., should, however, be sown where they ai-e to stand.
The larkspurs, poppies, mignonette, heliotrope and cypress vine, which are somewhat
difficult to transplant, may be pricked out in troughs, similar to those described in
the chapter on Vegetable Gardening, each trough having a pasteboard, or other divi-
sion, thrust down along the middle, to separate it into two parts. Plants difficult of
removal may be grown in these simple troughs, and be quickly and easily trans-
planted. This may be done at any time in the evening, unless the soil is too wet to
work. If so, wait until it is dry enough. To transplant in dry weather, give the
plants in the bed a good soaking the morning before transplanting, which, as stated,
had best be done at night.
PERENNIAL DAISY.
CALADIUM.
Leave a little depression, water the roots, and, when the water has disappeared,
draw the dry earth over all. They will hardly shrink. You will have forwarded
the season of flowering fully three weeks, and produced your flowers, even of the
more hardy sorts, far cheaper than if you had sown the seed outside.. You will also
be able to grow many things usually bought as plants from the florists, such as ver-
bena, pinks, daisy, pansy, etc. You may, early in July, have in full bloom China
and other garden pinks, and nearly all the class that, sown outside, do not usually
bloom until the second year. You may have balsams, candytuft, alyssum, migno-
nette, nasturtium, phlox, zinnias, morning glory, in splendid condition before your
neighbors, who have sown in the open air, can see theirs among the weeds.
A second crop of mignonette, candytuft, annual phlox, alyssum, balsams, etc.,
should, later, be sown inside to produce autumn bloom. In your hot-bed start gladi-
olus, dahlia, tigridias and other bulbs and tubers, and also such roots of perennials,
including Bengal and other tender roses, as you have kept through the winter in boxes
placed in a light cellar.
510 THE H03IE AND FARM 5IAXUAL.
III. Select List of Flo-wers for General Cultivation.
The running notes below will give all the information necessary to the grower in
addition to that already stated. Any respectable seed catalogue will give information
as to special varieties.
Ageratuji. — Cuttings may be started under glass. If seed is sown cover lightly ;
set plants six inches apart; nice for winter flowering in the house.
Amaranthus. — Ornamental foliage plants; fine in masses, and in mixed shrub-
bery, borders and centers ; sow in hot-bed and transplant.
AsPERULA. — Dwarf, desirable for shady situations and moist soil; fine for bou-
quets; plant six inches apart.
Aster. — Showy for borders ; flowers in autumn ; sow in cold frame ; transplant
tall varieties sixteen inches apart, dwarf varieties seven inches apart, in good deep
soil.
Balsam. — Showy and desirable; easily cultivated; prune by pinching out the
terminal buds; sow in hot-bed, cold-frame or window box; transplant into a deep
rich soil, twelve inches apai-t; set dwarf sorts separate from tall varieties.
Cacalia. (Tassel Flower). — Tassel-shaped flowers in clusters on slender
stalks; nice f of bouquets; sow in cold-frame; transplant to ten inches apart.
Calandrixia. — Sow seeds in slight hot-bed and transplant to light soil; it flowers
freely, and is perennial if protected in winter.
Calendula. (Pot Marigold). — Very pretty; flowers toward sunset and does
not open on cloudy days ; hence one of its names, rainy marigold.
Candytuft. — ^Fine for edging of beds and bouquets ; for early flowering sow
seed in fall and protect during winter with mulch ; thin plants to four inches apart in
the spring; it is diflacult to transplant.
Celosia. (Cockscomb). — Start early in hot-beds or window-boxes, and trans-
plant into small pots, to remain until the flowers begin to appear, then set out in
warm garden soil fifteen inches apart.
Clarkia. — Sow in March, under glass, and again later in the open air ; they
flourish in any soil free from wet; thin to a foot apart.
Convolvulus. (Morning Glory). — There are dwarf and also running species,
all of them handsome; they may be sown in the open air at corn-planting time, or
earlier in a cold frame and transplanted.
DiAXTHus. (Pinks). — Among the most elegant of plants are carnation, clove
pink, China pink and sweet AA'illiam ; sow in hot-bed; transplant dwarf varieties six
inches apart; tall, twelve inches apai't; if not kept too warm they are good house
plants.
Delphinum. (Larkspur). — These have finely cut leaves and beautiful flowers
of scarlet, pink, purple, blue and white; double white is fine for bouquets; sow in
the autumn or in the spring.
Eschscholtzia. — Showy flowers of yellow and cream white; will not bear trans-
planting; thin out to eight inches apart.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 511
Gaillardia. — If sown early under glass the bloom can be kept up the whole
summer; the seed germinates slowly; do not transplant until all danger of frost is
past.
Gilia. — Low growing, profuse in bloom ; the best effect is produced by them in
masses, or in borders on rock-work; the fljowers are nice for bouquets; sow in fall
and cover lightly during winter ; thin to six inches apart.
Lobelia. — Very pretty for baskets or vases ; sow seed in hot-bed or frame ;
dwarf varieties are useful for borders or pots; transplant six inches apart.
Lupin. — Hardy and easy to grow; sow the seed in the open ground where M'anted
to bloom; they can not be transplanted.
Marigold. — The varieties all are showy, and produce fine effects in masses;
hardy, and continue in bloom the whole season; sow seed in frame or hot-bed; trans-
plant two feet apart; dwarf varieties, twelve inches apart.
Mesembryanthemum. — Pretty plants of dwarf habit, fine foliage, suitable for
basket or pot culture on the border ; sow seed under grass; transplant eight inches
apart.
Mignonette. — Delightful for its fragrance ; sow under glass and transplant in
the open air eight inches apart ; sow in the ojien ground in May for succession or late
bloom.
Mirabilis. (Marvel of Peru). — Foliage and flowers are beautiful. For early
flowering, sow in hot-bed or box, or may be sown where wanted to bloom ; thin out
two feet apart.
Nasturtium. — Dwarf and running varieties ; the latter used for hanging-baskets
in winter. Dwarfs, pretty, low-growing, profuse flowering plants. The green seeds,
like martynia pods, are valuable for pickling. Sow in hot-bed and transplant in open
air, eight inches apart.
Nemophila. (Baby's Eyes). — Loveliest of blue-eyed flowers. They are low,
hardy annuals. Sow in frames, transplant six inches apart; thrive best in cool, shady
places. Seed sown in the fall will succeed well.
Pansy. (Viola Tri-color). — Nothing prettier; bloom the first season, in June,
if sown early in hot-bed and transplanted. Requires protection during the winter if
in open-air beds.
Petunia. — Indispensable, and elegant in masses; fine in the window garden.
The seed may be sown in hot-bed or cold frame; transplant eighteen inches apart;
the plants do not always come true from seed ; they are of every shade of color, and
bloom from early spring until frOst.
Phlox, Drummond's. (Annual). — Among the most beautiful of garden flowers,
and of infinite variety of colors'. The seeds for early flowering should be sown in
the hot-bed or the cold-frame, and transplanted one foot apart, as too close planting
produces mildew. Or plant out doors where wished to grow. The pretty moss 2^ink
is one of the perennial phloxes.
Portulaca. — One of the most brilliant of sun-loving flowers; low-growins;.
512
THE HOME AND FAEM \T AN TJAI,.
creeping plants, flowering abundantly. Sow in hot-bed and transplant, six inches
apart in the open air.
RicixTJS. (Castor-oil Bean). — Plants of green and purple foliage, of tropical
and striking effect. A centre-piece of ricinus, with plants of canna next, and a row
of caladium plants outside, will form a bed truly tropical in efPect.
Scabiosa. (Mourning Bride). — Bright-colored, annuals, adapted for beds and
for bouquets. The German dwarf varieties are double; sow in frame or in open
border. Set the tall varieties fifteen inches apart, dwarf, a foot apart.
HTBEID TEA KOSE— LA rEAXCE.
Stock Flowers. — Stock or gilliflower will never go out of favor, being abun-
dantly flowering, with colors running through all the shades of crimson, lilac, rose,
white, etc. Rich soil is requisite to keep Stocks double; they are planted in May or
sown earlier in the hot-bed, and set out, twelve inches apart. The annual Virginia
Stock is fine for edgings, but it does not transplant easily.
Zinnia. (Youth ant) Old Age). — The varieties of this Mexican plant are magni-
ficent in color. The flower is nearly as double as the dahlia, and lasts a' long time.
Sow the seed under glass in early spring, and transplant to the open ground, when
danger of frost is over.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
513
In this list we have included some plants that are biennial, but treated as annual
plants as blooming the first year. The double daisy is also not an annual, but will
bloom the first season if sown very early and twice transplanted before being set out.
They are difficult to winter out of doors, although in Europe they are hardy as far
north as Sweden. When there is plenty of snow, many tender plants and flowers
may be safely wintered.
4'
« »
^,
CHARLES LEFEBVRE ROSE.
IV. Biennial and Perennial Flowers.
Acanthus ; aconitum (monk's hood) ; adonis ; alyssum (distinct from sweet alys-
sum, an annual); aquilegia (columbine) ; hollyhock, of which the double varieties
are elegant and in great variety of color; iberis (candytuft); linum, or ornamental
flox; lobelia; lychnis (flame flower); myosotis (forget-me-not); Oenothera (evening
primrose); perennial poppy; perennial pea; penstemon; perennial phlox; pinks,
including picotees and sweet William ; primula (primrose) ; pyrethrum; rudbeckia;
salvia; veronica (speedwell); and violet (sweet violet). These varieties may be
named among the useful ornamental plants which either flower the second season or
are perennial.
33
514
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
V. Summer Flowering Bulbs.
Of bulbs, tubers and roots, which include many that must be kept over winter
in dry sand to prevent freezing, we may note: amaryllis (magnificent lily-like
plants); gladiolus (sword-lily), and all the hardy lilies proper; dahlias, caladium,
dicentra (bleeding heart), Maderia vine, Japan spirea, tritoma, tuberose (must be
started very early, planted out when the nights are warm and freely watered), tulips
and hyacinths.
COUNTESS OF SERENE EOSB.
VI. Flowering Plants and Vines— Roses.
Among the ornamental vines are adlumia (Alleghany vine); ampelopsis quinque-
folia (Virginia creeper) ; bignonia radicans (trumpet-vine) ; celastrus scandens (climb-
ing bitter-sweet); clematis flammula (European sweet, white); clematis vitalba
(virgin's bower, white). And, among shrubby plants, the hardy roses, and all the
flowering shrubs.
Moss Rose. — ^Among the most beautiful of plants are roses, and none are more
so than those that are not strictly hardy. An especially charming rose, charming
even by comparison with its lovely sisters, is the moss rose. We illustrate, on page
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
515
507, one variety, the Crested Moss, at half the natural size. Its special merit is its
long fringe of moss, giving the buds a most unique and beautiful effect.
Tea Koses. — The hybrid tea roses do well bedded out in summer, blooming
profusely and having most exquisite odor. The cut, page 512, shows one of the finest,
"La France," at half its natural size. In color a delicate silvery .rose, changing to
silvery pink; very large, full, of fine, globular form; a most constant bloomer; it is
among the most useful of roses and unsux'passed in the delicacy of. its coloring.
LOUIS VAN HOUTTB.
Perpetual Hoses. — The most valuable of any of the rose species are, without
doubt, the hybrid remontant, or hybrid perpetual roses. Many of these are hardy
enough to grow well far into the North with but slight protection, and south of forty
degrees most of them need none even in winter except in very exposed locations.
They are constant, charming in bloom and color, exquisite in fragrance, and should
be cultivated everywhere. One of the best, although it has the one failing of fading
516
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
quickly, is Charles Lefebvre, shown on page 513, one-half its natural size. The special
merits are its fine color, finished shape and the beautiful wavy form of its petals.
The color is reddish crimson, very velvety and rich; it is large, full and beautifully
formed, is a free bloomer, but as we have said, fades quickly. Its parentage is on
one side the "Gen. Jacquiminot," and on the other the "Victor Verdier" rose.
Autunm Roses. — One of the finest of autumn roses, and alsd one of the best
for forcing is the Countess Serene, shown two-thirds its natural size. It should be in
every collection, however small. It is in color a silvery pink, has great beauty of
form, delicate mottling, and other merits which should command attention. Page 514.
FLOWERS OF WHITE FLOWEEING DOGWOOD. NATTIRAI, SIZE
The "Louis Van Houtte" is a rather tender variety, but prolific, and is decidedly
the peer of any crimson rose known. We illustrate of full size on page 515. In color
it is a deep crimson maroon; it is of medium size, full, semi-globular form; has large
foliage, fewer thorns than the other dark roses, and is highly perfumed. Its special
merits are fine durable color, great sweetness, free blooming, and excellence in form.
But magnificent as roses are, and admired as they are by all, they are subject to
many drawbacks, of which insect pests are not the least. Lice and slugs must be
watched for, and hence we favor the perpetuals, and the still more tender tea roses.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
517
They may be wintered in the cellar, and will give ample satisfaction bedded out. ,
Yet the hardy June roses must by no means be neglected. These should find a place
in every garden.
VII. Flowering Shrubs.
All may have shrubs and clinging vines. From the better flowering sorts, of
which we illustrate many, as to their flowers and leaves, there is large room for
selection. In this connection we shall have little to say of trees. They will naturally
come in when treating of Laiidscape Gardening. The shrubs figured will be taken
alphabetically, the English name following the proper scientific term.
^v"'-*^^
ill
\
'Hkftt
FLOWERS OF JAPAN QUINCE. NATURAL SIZE.
CoENXrs. (Dogwood). — The variegated cornelian cherry is illustrated, as being
somewhat rare, and as belonging to the genus. The members of this species are
valuable shrubs when planted singly, in groups or in masses. Some are distinguished
by their elegantly variegated foliage, others by their bright colored bark. The
variety in question is a small tree, native to Europe, which produces clusters of
bright yellow flowers early in spring, before the leaves make their appearance. The
foliage, beautifully variegated with white, makes this decidedly the prettiest varie-
gated shrub in cultivation.
White Flowering Dogwood. — This is an American species, of spreading
irregular form, growing from sixteen to twenty-five feet high. The flowers produced
in spring before the leaves appear, are from three to three and a half inches in diam-
518
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
eter, white and very showy. They begin to appear just as the magnolia flowers are
fading, and are invaluable for maintaining a succession of bloom in the garden
border or on the lawn. They also are very durable, lasting in favorable weather
more than two weeks. Besides being a tree of fine form, its foliage is of a grayish
green color, glossy and handsome, and in the autumn turns to a deep red, rendering
the tree one of the most showy and beautiful objects at that season. It may be
regarded, all things considered, as one of the most valuable trees for ornamental
planting, ranking next to the magnolia among flowering trees, and only second to the
scarlet oak (which it almost equals) in brilliant foliage in autumn.
rose-colohed weigelia.
VARIEGATED CORNELIAN CHERRY.
CrooNiA. (Quince). Japan Quince. — The flowering varieties of the Japan
quince rank among our choicest shrubs. Although of straggling growth, they bear
the knife well, and, with proper pruning, may be grown in any form. As sino-le
shrubs on the lawn, they are very attractive, and for the edges of borders or groups
of trees, they are specially adapted. Their large, brilliant flowers are among the
first blossoms in spring, and they appear in great profusion, covering every branch.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
519
branchlet and twig, before the leaves are developed. Their foliage is bright green
and glossy, and retains its color the entire summer, which renders the plants very
ornamental, especially for ornamental hedges. It is sufSciently thorny to form a
defense, and at the same time makes one of the most beautiful flowering hedges.
There are a number of varieties: scarlet, blush, rosy red, and the double flowering.
The cut on page 517 shows the flowers of full size.
Dentzia. — We are indebted to Japan for
this valuable genus of plants. For hardiness,
fine form and luxuriance of foliage, and in
attractive bloom, they are among the most popu-
lar of plants. The flowering season in the North,
is the latter part of June, the beautiful racemes
being from four to six inches long. The illustra-
tion shows Pride of Rochester, an American
variety, producing large double white flowers;
the back of the petals being slightly tinged with
rose. It excels all of the older sorts in size of
flower, length of panicle, profuseness of bloom
and vigorous habit ; blooms nearly a week earlier
than its parents, the double dentzia crenata.
DiER VILLA i (Weigelia). — This is another
valuable genus from Japan. Shrubs of erect
habit while young, but generally spreading and
drooping as they acquire age. They produce in
June and July superb, large, trumpet-shaped
flowers, of all shades and colors, from pure
white to red. In borders and groups of trees
they are very effective, and for margins the variegated leaved varieties are admirably
suited, their gay colored foliage contrasting finely with the green of other shrubs.
There are many yarieties, all beautiful. The figure on page 518, the rose-colored
variety, an elegant shrub, with fine rose-colored flowers, introduced from China by
Mr. Foi-tune, and considered one of the finest plants he has discovered; of erect,
compact growth ; blossoms in June.
One of the most valuable properties of the weigeHas is that they come into
blossom after the lilac, and when there is some scarcity of flowering shrubs.
Forsythia. (Golden Bell). — These are pretty shrubs, of medium size. All
natives of China and Japan. The flowers are drooping, yellow, and appear very early
in spring, before the leaves. The best very early flowering shrubs. The one we
illustrate is in its growth, upright; foliage, deep green; flowers, bright yellow, and
shows the natural size of the flowers. (See next page).
Halesia. (Silver Bell). — This is the common snow drop, a pretty companion
to the golden bell. A beautiful large shrub, with pretty, white, bell-shaped flowers
PRIDE OF ROCHESTER DENTZIA BLOS-
SOMS, ONE-THIRD SIZE.
520
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
FOETOHE'S FOESYTHIA.— NATURAL SIZE.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
521
DOUBLE -FLOWERING PLUM.
522
I'HE HOJLE AND FA KM MANUAL.
in May. It is distinguished by its four-
HYDEASTGEA OTAKSA.
The hydrangeas are worthy of culti-
vation wherever they can be given
shade, good drainage and plenty of
water.
Philadelphus. (Syeinga, or
Mock Orange). — The syringa is an
invaluable shrub. Of vigorous habit,
very hardy, with large handsome fo-
liage, and beautiful white flowers,
produced in the greatest profusion
at the blossoming season ; it merits a
prominent place in all collections of
shrubbery. Most of the varieties,
except those of dwarf habit, form
large sized shrubs, twelve to fifteen
feet high. They can, of course,
be kept smaller by pruning. The
dwarf sorts do not yield many flow-
ers, but are such pretty, compact
plants as to be very useful where
small shrubs are desired. All of the
varieties flower in June, after the wi
winged fruit, which is from one to two inches
Ions. One of the most desirable shrubs.
Hydeakgea. — The native species are
handsome shrubs of medium size, with
fine large leaves, generally of a light green
color, and perfectly hardy The introduc-
tions from Japan and China are particu-
larly interesting and valuable. H. pani-
culdta grandiflora is remarkable in foliage
and flower, and being perfectly hardy, is
of great value. The other Japanese vari-
eties, like the H. hortensia, require pro-
tection in winter. They should be grown
in pots or boxes and wintered in the cellar,
and in summer placed along walks under
the shade of trees. H. otaksa is specially
adapted for this purpose. The foliage is
a beautiful deep green color; the plant
produces immense trusses of rose-colored
flowers in profusion in July ; free bloomer.
SYEINGA, OR MOCK ORANGE— NATUEAT. SIZE.
egelia. By planting the late flowering sorts,
GARDEN .FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
523
the season may be considerably extended. The syringa illustrated has very large,
white, fragrant flowers, upright habit, is very free flowering and a valuable sort.
Prunus.. (Plum). — Among the plums are embraced some of the most charm-
ing early spring flowering shrubs. Prunus triloba or the double-flowered plum, as
SILVER BELL.— NATURAL SIZE.
JIEADOAV SWEET.— SPIREA EXIMIA.
it is commonly called, and the double-flowered almonds produce in remarkable profu-
sion, perfectly double, finely formed flowers of most attractive colors. At the blos-
soming season each little tree appears like one mass of bloom, forming a most
beautiful and interesting object, whether planted singly upon the lawn or in groups.
524 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
As the almond and plum flower at the same time, they can be massed very effectively.
Both are hardy and of fine habit. The double flowering variety illustrated is a highly
interesting and desirable addition to hardy shrubs; flowers double, of a delicate pink,
upwards of an inch in diameter, thickly set on the long slender branches; flowers
in May. (Page 521).
LANCE-LEAVED SPIBEA.
SpiKiEA. (Meadow Sweet). — The spireas are all elegant, low shrubs, universally
admired and grown in some of their numerous varieties. They are of the easiest cul-
ture, and their blooming extends over a period of three months. We illustrate two fine
varieties — eximia, page 523, a well-known sort, and the double-flowered, lance-leaved
variety. ^Ve also give a list of ten sorts, which flower in the order named, beginning
in the middle of May and ending, in the North, about the middle of August: (1.)
Prunifolia fl. pL, Thunbergii. (2.) Niconderti. (3.) Chamaedrifolia. (4.) Crataegi-
folia, lanceolata, lanceolata fl. pL, lanceolata robusta. (5.) Ulmifolia. (6.) Opulifolia
GAKUEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
525
aurea crenata. (7.) Fontenaysii,
salicifolia, sorbifolia. (8.) Billardi.
(9.) Ariaefoiia. (10.) Callosa and
callosa alba, callosa superba. The
marks fl.pl. mean double flowering.
Spirea Japonica. — This is
a new and very handsome species
from Japan. A dwarf growing,
but very vigorous, narrow-leaved
variety, with rose-colored flowers,
appearing in great profusion in
mid-summer and autumn. When
small shrubs are desired, this will
be an acquisition. The cut gives
a faithful representation of the
foliage and bloom.
Rhodotypus. Kerrioides. —
This is another fine plant from
Japan, a country that has given us
many elegant hardy and half-
hardy shrubs and flowering plants.
It is a very ornamental shrub, of
GUELDER EOSE (VIBURNUM).
JAPANESE SPIREA.
medium size, with handsome foliage and large
single white flowers in the latter part
of May, succeeded by numerous small
fruits.
Viburnum. ( Snowball ) . — This tribe
is well known. The cut shows, at one-
third its size, V. opulus, or bush cran-
berry, variety, sterilis, the common
guelder rose of the garden. The plicate
viburnum is better in every respect. Of
moderate growth; handsome, plicated
leaves, globular heads of pure white neu-
tral flowers, early in June, it surpasses
the common variety in several respects.
Its habit is better, foliage much hand-
somer, flowers whiter and more delicate.
One of the most valuable flowering
shrubs.
VIII. Climbing and Trailing Shrubs.
Of climbing and trailing shrubs there is a great variety.
Ampelopsis (Virginia
52(3
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAX,.
creeper); Dutchman's pipe (aristolachia) ; and clematis, or virgin's bower, being
well known.
CLEJLVTIS JACKMANNI— HALF -SIZE.
Clematis. — These should be in every collection, and will stand the severest
winters if protected over the roots with mulch. They are elegant, slender branched
HALL'S JAP.USr HONEYSUCKLE.
shrubs, of rapid growth, handsome foliage and beautiful large flowers of all colors.
Either in the open ground as pillar plants, bedding plants, single plants, in masses,
or about rock-work, or cultivated in pots or tubs, the clematis cannot be excelled.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
527
The cut shows the Jblossoms of clematis Jackmanni, half-size. There are six distinct
types of these beautiful plants, all excellent and flowering at various seasons.
Hedera. (Ivy). — The ivies are not hardy in America, either North or South,
except in peculiar situations. They suffer from the sun in winter. Hence, ampel-
opsis takes its place.
LoNiCERA. (Honeysuckle or Woodbine). — This is hardy, and there are many
beautiful varieties. Among them none is better than Hall's Japan honeysuckle. A
strong, vigorous, almost evergreen sort, with pure white flowers, changing to yellow.
Very fragrant, and covered with flowers from July to December; holds its leaves even
until January. The illustration on page 526 shows a spray and blossoms of this
beautiful plant.
CHINESE- WISTARIA.— QUARTER SIZE.
Menispermum. (Moon Seed). — This is a pretty, native, twining, slender-
branched shrub, with small yellow flowers and black berries.
Silk Vine. (Pbriploca). — This is another beautiful, rapid growing vine,
climbing to a height of thirty to forty feet. The foliage is glossy and the clusters of
flowers a purple brown.
Wistaria. — These are beautiful climbers, and there are many varieties, with
various colored flowers. The Chinese wistaria is one of the best. In fact, iS one of
the most elegant and rapid growing of all climbing plants ; attains an immense size,
growing at the rate of fifteen or twenty feet in a season. Has long pendulous clusters
of pale blue flowers in May and June, and in autumn. The illustration shows the
leaves and flowers quarter size.
528
THE HOME AJJP FAKM MASUAL.
IX. Flowering Trees.
These are of many kinds, and should not be neglected. They are especially useful
on lawns of large extent, such as should always belong to the better class of farms.
The magnolia should find a place every-
where, from the magnificent varieties
adapted to the far South to the smaller
shrub-like varieties of the North
Magnolia Speciosa. — The illus-
tration shows, in half size of nature,
the flowers of magnolia speciosa, the
showy-flowered magnolia. This tree
resembles the M. Soulangeana in
growth and foliage, but the flowers are
a little smaller, and of a lighter color,
fully a week later, and remain in per-
fect condition upon the tree longer than
those of any other Chinese variety.
These qualities, combined with its
hardiness, render it, in our esteem, one
of the most valuable sorts. Other
magnificent varieties obtained by hy-
bridization are:
Magnolia Conspicua (Chinese
White Magnolia). (Chandler, or
YuLAN Magnolia). — ^A Chinese species
of great beauty. The tree is of medium size, shrub-like in growth while young, but
attains the size of a tree in time. The flowers are large, pure white, very numerous,
and appear before the leaves.
Magnolia Norbertiana. (Norbert's jNIagnolia). — ^A hybrid between M. con-
spicua and M. obovata. Tree, vigorous and of regular outline; foliage, showy;
flowers, white and dark purple. One of the best.
Magnolls. Soulangeana. (Soulange's ^Magnolia). — ^A hybrid, in habit closely
resembling M. conspicua. Shrubby and branching while young, but becoming a fair
sized tree. Flowers, white and purple, cup shaped, and three to five inches in dia-
meter. Foliage, large glossy and massive. It forms a handsome tree worked upon
the M. acuminata. One of the hardiest and finest of the foreign magnolias. Blooms
later than conspicua.
There is one thing, however, always to be remembered : In ordering any tree or
plant of your nurseryman describe your situation and locality. State some plants
that are hardy and half-hardy with you, and then the advice given in relation to
varieties may be worth money to you and save disappointment.
iEscuLUS. (Horse Chestnut). — ^Among the horse chestnuts is a double flowered
FLOWERS or magnolia speciosa.— half size.
GAEDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
529
variety that is magnificent, as any person will admit who has seen this tree as we
have, fifty feet high in its glory of blossoms. Not the least value of this tree is that
the blossoms are sterile, and hence the saving of the usual "horse chestnut litterV on
the lawn. ,
Double-Floaveeing Cherry. (Ceeasus). — There are few trees which combine
beauty with usefulness as do the cherries. We illustrate the flowers of the double-
EACEMES DOUBLE FLOWERED HOESB CHESTNUT— ONE -FIFTH SIZE.
flowering cherry one-quarter size. They flower in May in the North, and are especially
beautiful. The flowers are so numerous as to conceal the branches, and present to
the eye nothing but a mass of bloom, each flower resembling a miniature rose. The
drooping varieties of the ornamental cherries are especially adapted to beautifying
small grounds. As single specimens on the lawn they are unique and handsome, and
require only to be better known in order to be extensively planted. See next page.
The Double-Flowering Thorn. (Ceat^gus). — There are no trees or shrubs
34
530
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
more attractive than the flowering thorns. They are small trees, attractive in shape
and foliage, where they have room, and by judicious pruning can be brought into
small limits. They flower in May and June. The foliage is varied and attractive,
flowers very showy and often highly perfumed. The fruit is ornamental^ There are
numerous varieties, all of which are hardy and will thrive in any dry soil.
DOUBLE FLOWERING CHEREY— QUARTER SIZE.
A Handsome Crab-apple. (Pyeus). — Few know the beauty of the ornamental
crabs. These trees will bear investigation. We illustrate one of the best, with its
double, rose-colored and fragrant blossoips, of which the size is shown in the cut. It
is the best ornamental crab known. See page 532.
The Catalpa. — The catalpa has a value as a timber tree. The wood is one of
the most lasting known, but it is, in all its varieties, an ornamental tree also, with its
magnificently large leaves ; and it is, probably, as valuable as the sun-flower in arresting
miasma. One species, catalpa speciosa, a western forest tree, hardy up to forty-two
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS. 531
degrees North, standing the hard winters there, and to our mind a much finer
FLOWERS OF DOUBLE FLOWERING THORN— NATURAL SIZE.
tree, in every respect, than the southern species, catalpa bignonioides ; the northern,
FLOWERS OF CATALPA SPECIOSA— QUARTER-STZE.
the speciosa, being an upright tree and the other of a straggUng form. Its blossoms
532
THE HOME A2 FAKM MANUAL.
also open from two to three weeks earlier than bignonioides. There are a number of
ornamental varieties, among them golden catalpa, a medium-sized tree with heart-
shaped leaves, golden in spring but turning green later; catalpa Bungei, from China,
a dwarf with large glossy foliage; Japan catalpa, of medium -size, deep green
glossy foliage. Flowers fragrant, cream colored, speckled with purple and yelloow;
seed pods long and very narrow ; flowers about four weeks later than catalpa speciosa.
CHINESE DOUBLE-FLOWERtNG GRAB— NATDKAL SIZE.
The Persimmon. — (Diospykos). — The persimmon is not without beauty, as a
small shade tree on the lawn, and the children will not forget it, when its ripe fruits,
mellowed by the frost, are lying in the grass. It was a great favorite with the late
venerable Arthur Bryant, who loved all that belonged to the forest and grove, as
well as his brother, the poet. When horticultural friends visited him, as many did,
the handsome persimmon trees on his lawn were admired by these ' ' children of older
growth," especially in the later autumn. The tree has a wide range from the threat
lakes to the gulf, and some varieties in every situation bear excellent fruit. The
Japanese persimmon bears superior fruit, but is not hardy North.
GARDEN FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
533
X. Everlasting Flowers and Ornamental Grasses.
The ornamental grasses and everlasting flowers (so-called), that is, flowers that
retain their color and shape in drying, are considered indispensable in all good collec-
tions. Among these should not be omitted panicles of oats and heads of other
grains carefully dried, while green, in the shade, and then bleached, if desired, with
the fumes of burning sulphur. There are many varieties of some of the species of
everlastings mentioned. We give some of the better ones. These are : Aeroclinium,
white and red; ammobium, white; gomphrena, (globe amaranth), white, flesh-col-
ored, pink and white, apd orange ; helichrysum, rose, red, white, yellow and crimson ;
helipterum, white and yellow; rodanthe, white and yellow, purple and violet, rosy
purple, etc.; statice, yellow, blue and rose; waitzia, yellow; and xeranthemum,
purple, light blue and white.
Besides these, that admirable and truly magnificent plant, Statice Latifolia, with
its large trusses of lilac flowers, is most
desirable where it is hardy. The cut gives
its characteristics of foliage and blossom-
heads. There are a number of varieties be-
sides the one shown; as S. alba, grandi-
folia, maritima (sea pink), and S. undulata.
Ornamental Grasses. — Among the
giants in this class, are pampas grass,
(gynerium) not hardy in the North, and
erianthus ravennse, hardy with slight cover-
ing, and fully as fine. The smaller orna-
mental grasses which we recommend are :
agrostis nebulosa, elegant, fine and feath-
ery; arundo do.nax, perennial, yellow
striped leaves; a vena sterilis, (animated
oat); Briza maxima, one of the best of
the ornamental grasses, also geniculata; brizopy-
rum siculum, pretty; bromus brizseformis, peren-
nial; chrysurus cynosuroides (lamarckia aurea),
yellowish, feathery spikes; coix lachryma (Job's
tears); hordeum jubatum (squirrel tail grass), fine;
lagurus ovatus (hare's tail grass), dwarf, showy
heads; pennisetum longistylum, very graceful;
■stipa pennata (feather grass), magnificent; tri-
cholsena rosea, beautiful, rose tinted. The illustra-
tion shows how pretty these are in a simple basket.
STATICE LATIFOLIA.
ORNAMENTAL GRASSES.
XI. "Water Plants.
Where there is water, various plants will make pretty additions to the scenery.
5&4
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
Wild rice and other aquatic plants found in the streams may be used, though the
wholesale nurseries will supjjly anything wanted, or,
your nearest nurseryman will order them for you.
Nothing, however, is prettier than the water lilies so
abundant in the West. The double, fragrant water-lily
(nymphsea odorata) should come first. The heart-shaped
lily is, to our mind, no less pretty, though not so well
known nor so much admired. The nelumbo, or Ameri-
can water-lily, bears an edible bean, and is the American
representative of the sacred lotus of the Nile. The water-lilies are easily cultivated
by sinking the root, tied to a large stone, into the mud of a pond, or, if the bottom
is hard, by tying the root to the top of a stone and covering with muck.
WATER MLIES.
Fig. 1.
TAN TRELLIS
XII. Trellises.
Trellises are of various forms and easily rriade by any one who
has a little mechanical skill. Those partly of wire and partly of wood
are, many of them, of elegant forms, and are
sold by all horticulturalists. When climbing
plants or shrubs are grown at some distance
from any building, some support must be given.
Simple, strong stakes, the rugged stump, or
even top of a tree may, with great effect, be
covered by ampelopsis, or any of that class of
runners. Other climbers must have trellises to
conform to their habit, and the height of these
trellises must be governed by the plants em-
ployed. The three forms we give will illustrate
our meaning and fully explain themselves. The
fanrshaped trellis is quickly made, of the re-
quired size, by slitting the board or siding partly
through, and then spreading and fastening. It
is shown at Fig. 1. Fig. 2 shows a trellis of
uniform width, and Fig. 3, a square trellis, which
is contracted at the top and useful for a variety
of twining plants.
Too many suppose that floral beauty must-
be confined to the parterre. Not so.- You will
find, in the list we have here shown, climbing
plants, shrubs and trees which are among the
loveliest of nature's gifts. Again, we repeat: be sure of your climate, and that
your shrubs, trees, vines and flowers will flourish in it.
Fig. 2.
STRAIGHT
TRELLIS.
Fig. 3.
OBELISK TREIXIS
CHAPTER V.
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
I. THE LANDSCAPE GAKDENEB'S ART. U. STUDYING EFFECTS. IH. DESIGN FOE A VILLAGE LOT.
IV. DESIGN FOB SECLUDED GROUNDS. V. TREES AND TERRACES-TREE PROTECTORS. VI.
LAYING OUT CURVES OF WALKS AND DRIVES VII. LAYING OUT AND PLANTING FLOWER BEDS.
VIIL LANDSCAPE EFFECTS. IX. TREES FOE LANDSCiU-E PLANTING. X. TROPICAL PLANTS.
I. The Landscape Gardener's Art.
|HE landscape gardener's art,' in all its details, is too abstruse and wide a subject
for a book of this general character. When extensive work is to be done, an
expert must be employed, but the owner will, of course, have ideas to be carried
out, as he has when building a house. Some landscape gardeners are so puffed
up with an imagined importance of their calling, and have such a contempt' for ideas
■?*^. St^ ''^^^'
ENGLISH OAK.
not emanating from themselves, that they will enoeavor to argue away those of their
employer, and indeed, often willfully ignore them altogether. In nine cases out of
ten, such men are ignorant pretenders. In any event it is well to avoid such, and
employ one who can see the value of a suggestion or clearly show its impracticability,
[«3K|
536
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
and suggest improvements thereon. Avoid quacks in employing men of this or any
other profession.
Let us first consider the wants of that large class who live in villages of greater
or lesser extent. The kitchen .garden, the lawn with its few shrubs and trees, and the
parterre of the owners constitute the farm. The mistake of the greater number of
this class is in trying to do too much. We have seen more correct taste displayed,
and better effects produced, in some village lot, where the principal ground-work was
grass, and a few trees interspersed with some graceful shrubbery, and simple winding
paths, than in great country parks. The flower-beds cut from the green turf, and
the little vegetable garden, hidden by vine-covered trellises, is oftentimes more pleasing
to the eye searching for rural beauty than
many places of greater pretence, where much
money has been wastefully expended. One
mistake common to all classes is, they plant
too many trees, and trees, too, of a kind that
eventually grow to very great size, hiding an
otherwise pleasant prospect. In this respect,
please remember the adage, if you "plant
thick, thin quick." Not many trees of
the size of the English oak, shown on page
535, or of the mulberry herewith shown,
could find room on the largest lawn, yet the
germs of these giants, were, in the one case,
once contained in the acorn, and in the other,
in a minute seed.
*Ki'l ii "IIWl"'ll'!l ililiff'l'lii'lfiii'ii l| III' ' "^ II- Studying Bffects.
mulbeeby tree. Let us take, for example, a lot 100 by
200 feet, and study what effects can be pro-
duced in its adornment. Suppose, in the first place, that the house is set about fifty
feet back. If the road-way in front is adorned with maples and elms, so much the
better. A winding path, starting from near the corner of the lot, should approach
the front of the house, and be carried around to the rear, other paths being cut as
necessity or taste may dictate — some, perhaps, to an arbor, others to rustic seats.
Deciduous trees should be principally used in front, and evergreens at the side and
rear, because the former do not impede a view. Among the paths, small side-beds
may be cut for flowers. Remember that a few well-kept flower beds are better than
many unsightly ones. Here and there, in graceful confusion, spread over the lawn,
may be placed circular beds, containing peonies, clumps of lilies, and other hardy
perennial flowering plants, or, perhaps, such tall-growing tender ones as the dahlia or
gladiolus. Half -climbing roses, tied to narrow wire trellises or stakes, produce a very
pretty effect.
LANDSCAPE GAEDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
537
On a lot the size of the one we are supposed to be adorning, one or two large
shade trees are better than twenty. As a shade tree, the linden tree — basswood — is
one of the most beautiful. But if these cannot
be procured, then the walnuts, the horse-chest-
nuts, and, of course, the elms and maples are
always desirable. The whitewood, or tulip-
tree, is a more upright grower, and when aged,
is magnificent, especially when viewed from a
distance. Among evergreens, the white-pine,
hemlock (where hardy), Norway spruce and
firs, are easily obtained and desirable. The
larch is also a beautiful tree. It is sometimes
classed among evergreens, but is deciduous.
If the lot is smaller, and the house neces-
sarily placed near the street, of course, none
but shrubs and small-growing trees are admiss-
ible — such as spireas, and upright honeysuckles,
among the deciduous, and Siberian arbor-vit«,
red-cedar, or even the white-cedar, if kept
sheared, making pretty evergreens. The shade
trees upon a small lot should not be so large as
upon a greater one. Among the smaller-grow-
ing sorts is the white birch, with its silvery
bark, its toothed and pointed leaves, and grace-
fully-drooping branches . The ash-leaved maple
is a medium-sized and pretty tree, but is not
very long-lived. The moosewood, or striped maple, is not large enough for shade,
but it is very pleasing to the eye, on small lots. The sassafras tree is also of the
middling sized, and not without beauty. It loves a sandy soil. The magnolias, of
course, are magnificent when hardy. The common dogwood also is very attractive,
especially when covered with its beautiful blossoms and fruit.
PUBLIC
STREET
DESIGN FOR A VILLAGE LOT.
III. Design for a Village Lot.
The design we give is for a village lot of only half an acre, yet so planned that the
house is more retired from public view and dust than is many a mansion upon a plot
five acres in extent. The public street is planted with elms and hard maples, alter-
nately. The lot is surrounded with an arbor-vitse hedge, except along the carriage
road, C, where the hedge is of privet. D shows the main walk leading to the house,
A. B is the house-yard; E, the flower garden, the beds for which are cut in the'
grass; all else is lawn. The strip to the right of the carriage road is planted with
evergreens, as shown, and this planting must be of just sufficient density to break the
view.
538
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
The Planting. — The planting may be as figured on page 537, but it may be
changed as desired: 1, American mountain ash; 2, Japan quince; 3, deutzia; 4,
European mountain ash; 5, Kilmarnock willow; 6, European weeping ash; 7, Siber-
ian arbor vitse; 8, red cedar; 9, red bud or Judas tree; 10, Tartarian honeysuckle ;
11, Weigelia; 12, Mahonia; 13, rosemary-leaved willow; 14 and 15, deutzias; 16,
spirea; 17, purple-leaved berberry; 18, sumac; 19 to 22, next the house, are hybrid
perpetual roses ; 23, evergreens along the border; 24 is a Norway spruce ; 25 and 26
are junipers; 27, hedges. These are all common plairts to be had at any nursery.
Some of the handsome shrubs
described in the preceding chap-
ter may very properly take the
place of those we have men-
tioned, and 5, 6, 14 and 17 be
replaced by some of the trees
yet to be described.
IV. Design for Secluded
Grounds.
The
grounds
small farms near villages.
plan for secluded
is better suited to
or to
the better sort of village homes.
The grounds may extend in
every direction, according to
the taste or means of the
owner. The house is indicated
by the blank space, with a ter-
race and steps leading down
therefrom. The planting is
massed to give privacy to the
family, and yet not shut out
the views. The house has a
public entrance on the front,
and also one at the side, thus
avoiding the necessity of carry-
ing the main drive across the front, which is sometimes undesirable. The grade is
presumably nearly level for some two hundred feet from the house, and thence
descends to the public road over rolling ground. The lawn is bordered with beds of
flowers, and flowei'ing shrubs are massed here and there as shown. Masses of shrubs
are also grouped along the line where the land breaks from the level land.
V. Trees and Terraces— Tree Protectors.
In planting trees dig carefully, and carry them with a ball of earth attached.
PLAN FOR SECLUDED GROUNDS
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
539
We do not advise transplanting very large trees. They are seldom satisfactory;
especially constructed wagons are necessary and the loading and transporting costly.
In large cities the means of doing this work may always be hired, and men found
who have all the lifting machinery; but these facilities are lacking in the country.
The cut shows a simple stone boat and means for loading any tree that a horse can
haul with its ball of earth. Place the cross-piece, M, of the standards, E R, against
the trunk, fasten as shown, and it will be easy, by means of a horse attached to the
ropes, B, to swing the tree on the boat. (See page 540.)
? 'i\
MASSING FOE EFFECT IN HEIGHT.
The work of digging around trees of considerable size is best done in the winter.
When planting let the tree have an ample hole, and fill around it with the best possi-
ble soil, leaving a slight depression so it may be watered when necessary.
Massing Trees, — The cut illustrates the manner of massing trees to give the
appearance of a hillside. The close, low-growing shrubs in the
foreground gradually increase to small, and from that to larger
trees. The diagram. Sodding Terraces, shows correct and in
correct forms of slopes for terraces. Fig. 1, the proper slope,
both to prevent w'ashing and to preserve the line of beauty.
Fig. 2 shows a usual but most wretched form; Fig. 3, the com-
mon straight line, which should, however, never be employed
except for very short slopes. .
Protecting Trees. — Protect all trees liable to be ap-
proached by animals. The illustration of a tree protector sbows
one of the most simple and effec-
tive means of doing this, and this
protector serves, also, to keep
the tree from being blown about.
To accomplish the latter object
stay the tree to the protector by
bands, either of leather or of
twisted hay.
ne.i
SODDING TEEEACBS.
TREE PROTECTOR.
VI. Laying Out Curves of Walks and Drives.
In laying out walks and drives on extensive places, it is better that the guide
540
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
pegs for curves, and those for grades, be made by an engineer. On small areas any
person who can handle a spade and shovel and measure correctly, can do the work.
Make a proper slip of board, six feet long and two inches wide. Put a hook in one
end and a slight notch in the middle ; on the other end nail a strip twelve inches long,
bored with holes an inch apart. Lay the rod down in the direction the walk is to
^^
TRANSPLANTING TREES.
EOAD SCRAPER.
take, the notch at the first peg. If the walk is to deflect one inch in three feet place
a peg on one side or the other in the first hole according to the deflection. Then
move the hook to the next peg, and the notch to the last peg set, and put a peg again
at the hole one inch from the center as before. The deflection will be constant as
long as you continue in this way, but if you wish to increase or reverse it change the
pegs out, or else upon the other side as the case may be ; or notches may be cut at
regular distances at the end of the rod and the pegs set by these.
Fig. 1.
Fig. 2.
Fig.
Keeping the Roads in Order. — ^All roads however made — and they should be
of the best material, covered at least six inches deep with 'good gravel that will
cement together — should be crowning in the center, and then kept up to grade. The
cut of road scraper shows a large instrument for rounding up public earth-roads. A
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES,
541
smaller one, to be worked by two horses, will be useful in any country place for
keeping walks and drives in shape.
VII. Laying Out and Planting Flower Beds.
The formation of the more simple beds will easily suggest themselves by the aid
of the diagrams.
Fig. 1 is a simple bed and may be planted as follows: A, coleus la nigra; B,
geranium, scarlet; C, verbena venosa; the border of yellow coleus.
Fig. i.
rig. 5,
Fig. 2 shows a form of flower bed which may be advantageously planted as
follows: A, scarlet geranium ; B, white verbenas; C, blue verbena; border, with
alternanthera.
Fig. 3, A; coleus beacon ; B, coleus wonderful; C, coleus harlequin; border,
coleus facination.
Fig. 4, A, coleus vershaffeltii ; B, verbena,
mixed; C, sweet allyssum.
Fig. 5, A, canna, discolor; B, caladium
esculentum; C, scarlet geranium; D, white
geranium; E, yellow coleus; F, lobelia, blue;
G, sweet allyssum; H, portulucca, mixed; I,
achyranthus lindenii, and the border of ciner-
aria maratima.
Fig 6, A, coleus, la nigra; B, coleus, south
park gem; C, verbena venosa; D, achyranthus
metallica, and the border of coleus charter oak.
These will give good effects as examples of
carpet bedding, to be varied at the taste of the
operator. For irregular or other beds, flowers
of various kinds may be introduced in masses or
ribbons as desired.
The full page illustration carefully drawn by the engineer of Lincoln Park
expressly for this work will be interesting as showing what is acknowledged to be the
Pig. 6.
542
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
O
o
o
o
M
a
o
o
o
55
Q
PS
IS
o
m
O
finest example
in the United States of floral work on a large scale. The beds
will
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
543
%-
f
A
2!
O
c
S I
f
O
!>
O
o
a
v/
I.
w»
' * A
, ' *'^
^^«
f *
4 .
?^
\
■^
also show how effects may be produced on a smaller scale. Those here shown being one
544
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
inch to one hundred feet, will serve to give an idea of the magnitude of the work at
Lincoln Park, the whole flower-bed representing an area of eight acres. (See page 542. )
The explanation is: a, entrance to conservatory; B, walks; C, main drive at the
west; D, bear pits; e, wolf dens; F, canal leading to lake, shown in the view
following, page 543 ; G, bridge over canal ; g, place for proposed fountain ; H, large
^""Wf-^:^
HEAVY-WOODED PINE (PINUS PONDEEOSA).
vase and carpet bed. The other round figures are carpet beds ; the dark shading next
the walks are the borders of flowers ; the lighter portions grass. Let us now describe
some of these carpet beds for the information of those who may wish to produce
something like them. See also Figs. 4, 5 and 6, page 541. The principal colors
will be produced by means of masses of alternantheras, achemenas, escheverias,
othona, with something like oxalis for a border. Or, when it is large enough, a vase
of upright and trailing plants for a center, with compartments of coleus of appro-
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
545
priate colors and habit of growth. Or there might be a center plant surrounded by
coleus, achyranthus and lobelia, with an inside border of verbena venosa, and an
outside border of gnaphalium lanatum.
For ribbon beds take any bright-colored geranium for a center, with some dwarf,
high-colored zonale geranium for another line, and let the outside be some low-
growing coleus. Nothing is prettier than dwarf sweet, alyssum for an outside border
LAWSON'S CTPEESS.
if the inside lines of plants are not too large, for massing; it is a brilliant white with
plenty of perfume. A pretty bed may also be made of tea roses pegged down, with
mignonette interspersed, and for perfume nothing is better than heliotrope. We
might extend indefinitely but the indications we have given will suffice.
VIII. Landscape Effects.
The landscape effects that may be produced where there is room are numberless.
We have given exhibits of what may be done on small areas. The full page? engraving
35
546
THE H03IE AND FAEM MANUAL.
of A Landscape Effect in Lincoln Park, page 543, represents eight acres, the scale
one inch to the hundred feet, showing portions of lakes, drives, hill and valley. A,
is the boat-house; B, a hill with look-out from the top, over Lake IVIichigan; C, part
of lower lake ; D, bridge; E, part of upper lake; F, part of the main drive, with
picketing ground for carriages to the right; G, summer house. Persons of moderate
means may produce effects on a smaller scale, while those whose purses are long — and
it takes long purses for elaborate landscape effects — may "act accordingly."
IX. Trees for Landscape Planting.
In planting grounds for landscape effect the owner must be guided by circum-
stances. Hence it will only be necessary to figure some of the better trees, with
running notes as to their size and peculiarities.
Magnolias. — The magnolia
is always beautiful in foliage
and in flower. The glaucous
magnolia is almost an evergreen,
M.VGNOLIA GLAUCA.
growing in the East, in pro-
tected situations, up to forty-
two degrees north latitude, and
up to forty degrees in the
"West. It is a shrub-like tree,
and hence, valuable for small
places.
Arbor Vitae. — Among the
cone-bearers or true evergreens,
the Siberian arbor vitae is an
ornament to the smallest lawns.
It is not a Siberian tree, as its
SIBERIAN ARBOR \nT.i:. name would indicate, but, a
sort of the common arbor vita;, and is the best of all the genus for this country;
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
547
exceedingly hardy, keeping its color well in winter; growth compact and pyramidal,
makes an elegant lawn tree; of great valiie for ornament, screens and hedges.
Heavy- wooded Pine. — This is a noble tree, growing to the height of one
hundred feet, and hardy in the West. It is a native of the mountains of Oregon and
California, a rapid grower, with leaves eight to ten inches in length and of a silvery
green color. (See cut on page 544).
Lawson's Cypress. ( Cupressa Lawsoniana). — This is one of the most mag-
nificent of Calif ornian trees, but not hardy North. In its native habitat it is very
large, and with its elegant drooping
branches and slender, feathery
branchlets, is beautiful; one of the
very finest of the cypress tribe.
The leaves are of a dark, glossy
green, tinged with a glaucous hue.
East, this tree is considered tolerably
hardy, but is apt to lose its tips in
the winter. There are fine specimens
on Long Island, and we believe also
WHITE SPRUCE.
in Rochester, N. Y. In hilly regions
South it would be valuable. The tim-
ber is good, clear, easily worked and
of strong odor. See cut, page 545.
White Spruce. — The spruces
and hemlocks are both useful and
ornamental in high degree. Unfor-
tunately, the hemlock does not gen-
erally do well when standing alone.
The Norway spruce is everywhere as
hardy as the oak, and is generally
known and planted. The white
spruce is not so well known, but is
very valuable, hardy and beautiful.
It. is a native tree of medium size,
varying in height from twenty-five
to fifty feet, of fine pyramidal form.
Foliage silvery gray, and bark light-
colored.
X. Deciduous Trees.
There are so many deciduous trees to select from that no one need go astray.
Among them none are more beautiful than the scarlet maple, with its varied autumn
shades and tints. The maples are also noted for their endless variety of foliage and
548
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
coloring. Some of these we illustrate, as to their leaves, believing they should be
better known.
Maples. — The crisp-leaved maple is an elegant tree of medium size and compact
growth, foliage deeply cut, crimped and quite distinct from any of its class. The
tripartite-leaved maple is another nursery tree, and certainly handsome; a vigorous,
upright grower, with deeply lobed foliage, the leaves being cut nearly to the midrib
. and three-parted. The young growth is conspicuously marked with white spots, and
particularly noticeable in winter. (See cuts on page 555).
Wier's cut-leaved maple originated in Illinois with the gentleman whose name it
bears. It is a variety of the silver-leaved maple, and one of the most remarkable
and beautiful trees, with cut or
dissected foliage. Its growth is
rapid, shoots slender and droop-
ing, giving it a habit almost as
graceful as the cut-leaved birch.
LEAVES OF
WIEE'S CUT -LEA V:^ MAPLE,
SEDUCED.
The foliage is abundant, silvery
underneatih, and on the young
wood especially deeply and deli-
cately cut. The leaf stalks are
long and tinted, with red on the
upper surface. It ranks among the most interesting and attractive lawn trees, and
may be easily adapted to small places by an occasional cutting back, which it will
bear to any degree necessary, as well as a willow.
Sycamore. — There are no nobler trees than the sycamores. Among the more
curious of this species is one with tricolored foliage, a charming variety of the
LEAVES OF CRISP-LEAVED MAPLE— NATUEAL-SIZE.
LANDSCAPE GARDENIKG AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
549
European sycamore, and said to be identical with tlie variegated-leaved sycamore.
Its leaves are distinctly marked with white, red and green, retaining their variegation
all the summer. One of the finest variegated-leaved trees.
Ash. — The ash is valuable for tim-
ber, but all kinds do not deserve a place
on the lawn. Those most valuable for
"%
LEAVES OP ACTIBA-LEAVED ASH.
QUAKTEE SIZE.
LEAF OF A TEICOLORED-LEAVED
SYCAMOEE, QUARTEE SIZE.
timber are the white, the green, the
blue and the black ash. An American
variety is beautiful as an ornamental tree, and valuable for grouping with purple-
leaved trees, the variation being permanent. We refer to the acuba-leaved ash, having
LEAF OF FERN-LEAVED BEECH.— NATURAL SIZE.
gold-blotched leaves like the Japan acuba. Another variety, punctata, resembles it
closely.
550
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Pern-Leaved Beech. — The beeches are noted for their rich, glossy foliage
and elegant habit. The purple-leaved, fern-leaved and weeping beeches are three
remarkable trees, beautiful even while very young, but magnificent when they acquire
age. As single specimens upon the lawn, they exhibit an array of valuable and
attractive features not to be found in other trees. The fern-leaved beech is a tree of
elegant habit, and delicately cut fern-like foliage. During the growing season its
young shoots are like tendrils, giving a graceful, wavy aspect to the tree. It is one of
the finest lawn trees. On page 549 we figure the leaf, showing its great beauty of form.
7 f-A -i^
6:
TEEX-LEAVED BEECH.
Weeping Beech.. — This magnificent tree should be in every collection, on
account of its curiosity both as a summer and winter tree. It is of Belgian origin,
remarkably vigorous, picturesque, and of large size. Its mode of growth is curious.
The trunk or stem is generally straight, with the branches tortuous and spreading ; often
ungainly in appearance, divested of leaves, but when covered with rich, luxuriant
foliage, of wonderful grace and beauty.
The Birch. — The birches are all both handsome and useful. One variety has
the well-known fragrant bark, and the bark of others is used by the Indians in
making canoes. The wood is valuable for fuel, and no tree is prettier on the lawn
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
551
WEEPING BEECH.
than the cut-leaved weeping birch. Beyond question it is one of the most popular
552 THE HOME AND FAKM JIANUAL.
of all weeping or pendulous trees. Its tall, slender, yet vigorous growth, graceful
CUT-LEAVED WEEPDfG BHSCH.
drooping branches, silvery white bark, and delicately cut foliage, present a combina-
tion of attractive characteristics rarely met with in a single tree.
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
553
The Linden, or Lime. — Every woodman knows this tree as bass wood. It is
valuable for lumber when it can be kept dry ; its bark makes the bass matting of
commerce. The lindens are all beautiful, and their flowers fragrant and much sought
'•'^^
ww^a^^-
WHITE-LEAVED WEEPING LINDEN
after by bees. The ornamentar varieties are numerous. Among them are the gold-
barked, fern-leaved, and the white-leaved weeping linden, the latter of which is
illustrated herewith. Its large foliage and slender, drooping shoots are unsur-
passed. Another variety, the white-leaved European linden — a Hungarian species —
554
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
is a vigorous growing tree, of medium size and pyramidal form, with cordate acumij
nate leaves, downy beneath and smooth above. It is particularly noticeable among
trees by its white appearance. Its handsome form, growth and foliage render it
worthy to be classed among the finest of our ornamental trees.
YELLOW WOOD— VIEGILLA LUTEA.
TeUow Wood — {Virgilia Lutea). — This is one of tHe most beautifiil of
American trees; tree and foliage fine and blossoms sweet. It is a tree of only
moderate growth, broadly rounded head, foliage compound like that of the locust
tribe, and of a light green color turning to a warm yellow in autumn; flowers pea-
LANDSCAPE GARDENING AND LANDSCAPE TREES.
555
shaped, white, sweet scented, appearing in June in great profusion, in long drooping
racemes covering the tree.
'^ - >''
SCARLET MAPLE.
LEAF OF MAPLE, VARIETY TRIPARTITUM.
HALF NATURAL SIZE.
The Elms. — What is more magnificent than an elm, with its graceful outlines
and varied forms ! The English think their elm
the finest of their native lawn trees. But it can-
not compare with our drooping forest elm. Yet
the English elm has a rugged beauty of its own.
X. Tropical Plants.
The Ivory-nut Plant. — This plant is not
hardy in the United States outside a small por-
tion of Florida and California, and is only met
with in conservatories. It is a plant of curious
habit, and its nuts have some value in the manu-
facture of small articles in imitation of ivory.
The tree is a native of the northern regions of
South America, extending just across the Isthmus
of Panama, large groves of it having been dis-
covered not long since in the province of that
name. It banishes all other vegetation from the
soil it has taken possession of, has the appearance of a stemless palm, and consists of
a graceful crown of leaves twenty feet long, of a delicate pale green color, and
ENGLISH ELM.
556 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
divided, like the plume of a feather, into from thirty to fifty pairs of long narrow
leaflets.
THE IVORY-NUT PLANT. <
It is not, however, really stemless, but the weight of the foliage and the fruit
gives it this appearance some-
times. Where it is seen it is
like a large root, stretching
along, the ground for nearly
twenty feet. The long leaves
are employed by the Indians
to cover the roofs of their
cottages. The fragrance of
the flowers is most powerful,
and the tree produces a large,
roundish fruit, fi'om eight to
twelve inches in diameter, and
weighing, when ripe, about
twenty-five pounds. The
seeds of this fruit constitute the vegetable ivory of the commercial world.
Above are shown, also, the decidious cypress of the South, and the persimmon
tree — the latter described on page 532.
DECIDIOUS CTPBESS OF
THE SOUTH.
PERSIMMON TREE.
CHAPTER VI.
PISH AND PISH PONDS.
PISH ON THE FAEM. II. FISHES FOB CULTIVATION III. EIVER AND POND FISH AND THEIE
TIME FOR SPAWNING. IV. TliE FAMILIES OF EIVER AND POND FISH. V. RULES FOE THE
TRANSPORTATION OF FISH. VI. AETIFIOIAL FISH BEEEDING. VII. HATCHING THE FISH. Vnl.
FISH-HATCHING BOXES IX. BEEEDING FISH IN PONDS. X. CAEP BEEEDING. XL HOW TO
FOEM THE POND.
I. Pish on the Parm.
S|HE breeding and care of food fishes has, within the Jast few years, been given
; so much attention, that a volume of the character of The Home and Farm
W- Manual would be incomplete without some practical information on the subject.
It is appropriately placed in the part relating to horticulture, because artificial
ponds and lakes are intimately connected with landscape gardening.
CLIMBING FISH.
The Federal Government has spent large sums in experiments upon fish-breeding-
and their general management, and many of the States now have regularly organized
fish commissions, for stocking the local waters. Shad have been introduced into the
Ohio River, where they were heretofore unknown. These fish must annually seek
salt water, and they naturally return to their homes for spawning. This they have
successfully done through the turbid waters of the Mississippi, and returned to the
places- where they were originally introduced. This shows the success of this enter-
prise. A few years ago eels were unknown in the great lakes above the Falls of
fSSTJ
558 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Niagara. During the present season they were found in great numbers about a wreck
in Lake Michigan.
Some Usual Mistakes. — If the introduction of other fish, notably of brook
trout, has failed in western rivers and ponds, the failure is what any intelligent person
might have predicted. They are essentially a clear and cold water fish, and thrive in
no other kind of water. In waters, ponds or streams, fed by cold springs, they have
been most successfully bred. Five years ago, we, with a party of horticulturists, ate
A FISH NURSERY.
large, handsome speckled trout at the home of Dr. Pratt, near Elgin, 111. These had
been bred by him, and were taken from his hill-side ponds. There, at any time, they
might be seen, by dozens, sporting in the clear waters of his cedar-shaded miniature
lakes.
A fatal mistake in fish culture has been made by many in the introduction of the
pickerel of the West. By every possible means these predatory tyrants should be
excluded. They relentlessly and ferociously pursue all fish smaller than themselves,
and will soon decimate the finny inhabitants of an artificial pond. Whoever cultivates
FISH AND FISH PONDS.
559
That is.
pond fish, must use the same discretion as the breeder of other farm stock,
he must breed to a purpose, and for a purpose.
II. Pishes for Cultivation.
Trout may be bred in any clear pond fed either by springs or by a brook, and
in which the temperature of the water seldom rises above sixty-five degrees ; or in
any clear water abounding in deep, shaded holes. Those who have large lakes may
POND AND FISH-WAY.
breed various fishes, since such waters have an inlet and outlet, and are adapted to a
variety of species. The owner of small ponds must content himself with perch, cat-
fish, roach, dace and carp. In the natural spawning of fish comparatively few eggs
are hatched — less than one in ten, and many of them are destroyed before they reach
an eatable size. In the economy of nature enough are hatched to keep up the supply,
but when the seine, the gill-net, the traps of the fisherman, and the endless fishing
tackle of the anglers are constantly at work, not only are stream and lake fish
destroyed, but even the salmonidse, which frequent our coasts and estuaries, have
560
THE HOME AND PAEM MANUAL.
already been so decimated that the enhanced price has, at length, brought about legis-
lation for their protection and preservation.
Of game fish we have little to say. The pond fish to be cultivated we have
already indicated, and these, with a list of the principal fish of interior lakes, ponds
BLACK BASS OF THE WEST.
and streams must suffice. Those fishes which are of a strongly predatory character
will be marked thus * ; the game fishes admissible marked with a t • •
STETPED OR BEASST BASS OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
III. River and Pond Pish and Their Time of Spawning.
We give herewith a list of lake and pond fishes of the West, with their weight
and the approximate number of eggs each will spawn :
Yellow perch, weighing 3)4 ounces, gave of eggs, 9,943
White flsh, " 2 pounds, " " 25,076
Herring, " 5|^ ounces, " " 265,650
Koach, "12 " " i< 480,480
Brook trout, "8 " u u 600
To this list we add the shad, weighing , gave of eggs, -26,000
riSH AND FISH PONDS.
561
We give below the period of spUwning of some of our principal river, lake and
pond fish. It is calculated for the New England States, but will be useful everywhere,
since a change of the calculation for differences of latitude will give an approx-
imation :
t Perch pike (lucioperca Americana), last of April and first of May.
* Pickerel (Esox reticulatus), last of April and first of May.
Yellow perch (perca flavescens), April and May.
White perch (merone Americana), June.
Roach (pomotis appendix). May.
Sunfish (pomotis vulgaris). May.
Sucker (catostomus). May.
Rock bass (centrarchus aeneus). May.
t Bottom pike (lucioperca var.). May.
Mullet (catostomus), June.
BROOK TEOUT.
Black bass (grystes fasciatus), June.
Hornpout catfish (Pimelodus), September.
Trout in brooks (salmo fontinalis), October and November.
Trout in artificial ponds (salmo fontinalis), February and March.
White fish (coregonus albus), October and November. Deep water lake fish.
IV. The Families of Pond and River Pish.
Some of the principal families of fish contain a number of species. We again
mark the pike family * as not to be countenanced, and the salmon family t as adapted
only to deep or very cold, pure waters. Only the common names (as known in the
West) are given.
Perch family. — ^Yellow perch, pickerel of the lake, sunfish, rock bass, grass
bass, black bass of the lake and black bass of the Ohio River — two distinct fish,
although bearing the same name ; dwarf bass.
36
562 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Hog Fish family. — White perch of the Ohio Kiver, sheeps-head of the lake,
hog fish, blenny-like hog fish, spotted hog fish, variegated hog fish.
Carp family. — Carp of the Ohio, mullet of the lake, Missouri sucker, white
sucker, red-horse sucker, buffalo sucker, brook sucker, spotted sucker, mud sucker,
white sucker, black sucker, rough-nosed dace, stone-roller, silver shiner, large shiner,
red-bellied shiner, red-bellied shiner of the lake, white and yellow-winged shiner,
horned chub, red-sided chub, gold shiner, flat shiner, chub-nosed shiner, flat-headed
chub, mud minnow.
* Pike family. — Masquallonge pike, black pike.
Catfish family. — Blue catfish, yellow catfish, channel catfish, mud catfish, bull-
head, yellow backtail.
t Salmon family. — ^Mackinaw trout, speckled or brook trout, shad of the lake,
white fish.
Shad family. — Gold shad, hickory shad, larger herring, lesser herring, moon-
eyed herring, (dog fish, duck-bill gar, alligator gar, common gar). The last named,
in parentheses, are worthless and savagely predatory.
V. Rules for the Transportation of Pish.
One of the best authorities on the subject, Mr. Coste, early called attention to
the care necessary in the removal of fishes from one part of a country to another.
These rules have since been generally adopted. By these means fish may be success-
fully brought over the ocean, or transported by railway from the Atlantic to the
Pacific. The rules to be observed are :
1. Very young fishes should be selected.
2. These fishes should be distributed among several receptacles.
3. Care should be taken not to crowd too many together in one I'eceptacle.
4. The water should be renewed partially or entirely whenever it becomes
necessary.
5. It should also be aerated from time to time.
6. The fishes should be fed whenever they shall seem to require it.
7. The remains from the food which has been given to the fishes should be
carefully taken up from the bottom of the receptacle, and removed within eight hours
after feeding; the dejections and other impurities which would injure the water
should also be removed.
8. Finally, the several receptacles should be kept in different places, and under
various conditions.
VI. Artificial Fish Breeding.
The breeding of fish — hatching and rearing artificial!} for transportation and
the stocking of ponds — requires accurate knowledge, and constant care and attention.
The water must be pure. It is not admissible on the farm, because the young fry are
now so safely transported, that it is cheaper, in those States where there are no fish
commissioners to supply them, to purchase what are needed. They may also be
FISH AND FISH PONDS.
563
obtained, gratuitously, upon application to the United States Fish Commissioners at
Washington; nevertheless, we give cuts showing an indoor and an outdoor apparatus,
for such amateurs as may wish to undertake the labor as a pastime.
Spawning. — The fish, ready for spawning, must of course first have been bred
in proper .ponds, whence they may be taken in hand-nets, or else procured from
natural waters. It is a fact well known to naturalists that the eggs of fishes are fer-
tilized or impregnated after they are deposited by the female parent. The fact that
it was possible to obtain the eggs unimpregnated, and yet in a condition to be stiscep-
tible of impregnation, and the further fact that the milt, or spermatic fluid, could be
obtained in such a condition as to be preserved for many days without loss of its
virtue, suggested the idea of artificial impregnation, and successfully practiced first in
France, Germany, England and Scotland, and later in America. The process of this
artificial impregnation is as follows : Having placed on a table or other convenient
place a perfectly dry porcelain or other non-corroding dish, then immerse the hands
in water, and hold the female fish with say
the left hand, the pressure of the hand being
immediately behind the gills; hold the fish
upright ; some ova may escape by the action
of gravity and muscular contraction. Dip
the right hand in water, and clasp the body
of the fish in such a manner that the thumb
may be gently pressed along the abdomen.
If no eggs are extruded by a gentle pressure,
replace the fish in its element, because either
it is not sufficiently ripe or else is diseased.
Never handle a breeding fish with dry hands,
for the reason that the glutinous covering of .
the fish adheres to the dry hands, to the
very great and absolute injury to the fish.
But when the fish is fully ripe the eggs ex-
trude with a very gentle pressure. In no
event must the abdomen be squeezed, be-
cause squeezing might rupture the air-bladder or injure other of the viscera.
When the abdomen has been emptied of all the eggs, then seize the male and
treat him in thfe same manner that the female was treated. A few drops of milt or
spermatic fluid will be the result of this process. The milt should be dropped from
the body of the fish on the eggs or ova directly, and as soon as the milt is dropped
pour sufficient water to cover the eggs, and stir them with a quill, glass rod, or tail of
the male fish. There is no objection to the dish which receives the eggs and milt
containing a very little water, but it is not now used by the best cultivators.
While the stirring of the mass is going on, the eggs are undergoing great changes ;
prior to the introduction of the milt or zoosperms, they were in a manner aggluti-
AKTIFICIAL EXTEUSION OF EGGS.
,")04 THE HOME AXD FAEM MANUAL.
nated and in a flaccid condition; now they have become enlarged, and now translucent;
each egg, no longer coherent, is an individuality^ and by one of those mysterious
processes by which Nature works, they are become hard to the touch, so that they
will roll about like shot on a smooth surface. Here, now, we have the vivified germ,
the embryo fish. In this state they are taken, cleansed in one or two waters, and
carefully placed upon a bed of gravel or upon wire-cloth trays, and with a feather
evenly distributed over the surface, the object of such spreading being to allow the
clear, living water to come continually in contact with all the eggs — well-oxygenized
water being as essential to a normal, healthy development of the embryo, as it is material
to the life and growth of the fish in its subsequent stages. Now, with pure and per-
petually-running water, filtered, if necessary, by one or more flannel screens, with
clean tools, clean surroundings, and with clean hands, we enter upon the work of
incubation, a labor lasting five, ten, twenty, forty, eighty, one hundred and twenty
days, or even longer, depending upon species, and upon quality and temperature of
water.
Dead eggs, easily distinguished, whenever discovered, are to be at once removed,,
as they produce a byssus that sends out its clammy, fibrous arms to destroy every
living egg within their reach, and all sediment and substances Of every sort foreign
to the before-named conditions of their health and growth are to be sedulously
guarded against.
VII. Hatching the Fish.
The eyes first appear, then a faint embrj^onic structure, and soon after a dim outHne
of the coming fish may be seen, growing more and more visible each day, until some
morning you see the wreck of a habitation floating down the current, and a tiny crea-
tion, most unmistakably alive, settled down amid the interstices of the gravelly bed,
or meshes of the wire tray, a third, or a half, or perhaps, three-fourths of an inch in
length. About the most perceivable thing of this new birth, is a bag or sac attached
to the belly of the fish. This sac, with the salmo quinnat, is of a rich pinkish color,
resembling one or two drops of blood incased in a semi-transparent membranous bag.
At birth, it is larger than the fish itself, rendering all movements of the new comer
exceedingly awkward and clumsy. This is the umbilical vesicle, or yolk sac — Nature's
store-house for the supply and sustenance of the fish during its tender infancy. Until
this sac is absorbed, the fish wiU eat nothing, seems to desire nothing but to le let
alone, content with the pabulum stored in its little knapsack, from which it daily',
hourly draws that nourishment, the provision and pottage of birthright. Day by day
the sac becomes smaller, till it can scarcely be perceived with the naked eye ; then the
fish begins to move about, as if in quest of something to satisfy its hunger. This yolk
sac, with the salmon and trout and some other species, lasts from thirty to forty days ;
with other varieties, not so long. During the existence of the umbilical vesicle the
fish are known as alevins; afterwards, up to certain periods of growth, minnows or
fry. The sac being absorbed, the fry should be fed two or three times a day, or
FISH AND FISH PONDS.
5G5
oftener, in limited quantities, will do no hurt. Various kind's of food are given —
bonny-clabber, yolk of an egg, boiled calf's or beef's heart, boiled hard and grated;
liver of all kinds (except hog's liver), chopped or grated so fine as to become the
consistence of thick blood, mixed with a little sweet cream, are used as food, while the
fry is very young. Under proper care and feeding, the fish will come on rapidly, so
that in a few days or weeks they will do to be removed from their hatching-troughs
and planted in the lakes and rivers, there to grow and to bear testimony that fish cul-
ture is neither a myth nor a phantasm, but an ocular, tangible and gustible reality.
OUT-DOOE HATCHINKJ BOX.
VIII. Pish Hatching Boxes.
On this page is a cut of one of a series of out-door hatching boxes used by Mr.
Francis, of England. He says : A spring, from which a rill flowed, was first obtained ;
there was a considerable fall in the run of the water, which was very advantageous ;
nevertheless, the plan here adopted can be applied more or less to any stream. We
first bricked up the little rill
so as to form a reservoir
(1) .and raise the water to
a higher level ; we covered
the reservoir in with a large
stone to keep out dirt and
vermin, and. placed at the
lower end of it a zinc shoot,
(2) over which the stream
flowed. Immediately under
this we placed our first box,
a fac-simile of which is given.
It was made of elm, four feet long, and fifteen inches wide in the clear, and ten
inches deep. At the upper end of the box a projecting zinc trough (3) was fixed to
catch the water, this trough being about three-quarters of the width of the box itself.
At each end of every box a piece was cut out six or seven inches in width, and
through these the water flowed into each box. (These openings were not carried ail
across the boxes, as the shoulders left made an eddy very favorable, as quiet resting
places, to the young fry when first hatched.
If the stream be at all strong, artificial eddies should be created by sticking small
pieces of perforated zinc upright in the gravel at intervals along the sides and across
the stream ; behind these the helpless fry can be in safety. The top cut, which first
received the water, being secured from foes without by being covered with perforated
zinc through which the water flowed, and the further end one having a zinc shoot to
deliver the water, and also a perforated zinc face, not only to keep foes out, but the
fish in. Fastened over the cut, in the lower end of the first box, was a short zinc
shoot (5) to convey the water into the next box over the corresponding cut, so that
no water should run to waste between the boxes. Thus, when' No. 1 was fairly placed
566
THE HOME AND EARM MANTIAL.
on a brick foundation so as to receive the water in the zinc trough, all that was
required was to insert the shoot at the other end of the box into the corresponding cut
of No. 2 box, and slide No. 2 safely and closely up into its place, and so on with
Nos. 3, 4 and 5, etc.
These boxes were then partially filled with coarse gravel of the size of goose-
berries, and some larger, even to the size of plums, for the more irregular their shape
the better, as there will be more interstices between them, in which the ova can be
hidden, and the little fish, when hatched, can creep for safety. The gravel was at a
level of about an inch below the cut which
admitted the water, an inch depth of water
being quite sufficient to cover them. Each
box was furnished with a lid, comprising a.
wooden frame-work, and a perforated-zinc
center. This lid was made to fit closely by
means of list being nailed on all around. It
was padlocked down, to keep out inquisitive
eyes and fingers. Boxes in exposed places
should always be covered in, if not with
coarsely-perforated zinc, yet, with fine wire
netting, or water mice will get in, and various
birds, as moor-hens and dab-chicks, will pick
out the spawn, while a king-fisher, should
he discover them, will carry off the fry by
wholesale. The stream was then turned
on, and flowed steadily from box to box
throughout the boxes, and finally discharged
itself by the end shoot into the bed of the
rill.
It need not be imagined that a full
stream is necessary, for a small amount of water is sufficient. Indeed, a flow of
water, say through a half-inch pipe, would be enough, perhaps, though it is advisable,
while the ova are unhatched, to have more, so that there shall be more stream and
movement in the water, and consequently, less time for deposit to settle ; so that we
had on, perhaps, as much as a stream three-quarters of "an inch in diameter. When
the fish are hatched, half that quantity would be preferable, as they are not well able
to struggle against a stream, and would be carried down, perhaps, to the end box,
and so, against the perforated-zinc face, where they would stop up the holes, and
finally be smothered.
We give this, mainly to show the care and difficulties of fish breeding. No person
should attempt it who has not abundance of leisure, patience and a real love for the
work. For such amateurs as have these requirements, we show a simple in-door
hatching box, that may be supplied by the house hydrant. In the cut showing In-door
rS-DOOK HATCHING BOX.
FISH AND FISH PONDS.
5G7
Hatching Box, 1, is a frame-work of glass rods; 2, tank with eggs resting on gravel ;
3, catcher; 4, hand net.
IX. Breeding Fish in Ponds.
The ponds once stocked, it will be only necessary to provide some simple,
artificial means for spawning that the fish will seek for themselves. An example is
illustrated on next page of an Artificial Spawning Bed. These ^ill be necessaiy only
where natural spawning beds are not present. To make the artificial bed, a frame-
work of poles and laths interspersed with twigs, boughs and acquatic plants is laid in
t-^
;^V -t'. '"^
* « • t'
SUCCESSION OF HATCHING BOXES .
the pond, so as to form an irregular structure. This is weighted down with stones,
and may be of any required form. When not in use, it can easily be drawn out upon
the bank. (See page 568. )
X. Carp Breeding.
We have given information enough to enable our readers, who have ponds
sufficiently deep, to stock them with bass, perch, sun-fish, etc. If they have ponds
not more than three or four feet deep they may cultivate that valuable pond fish the
carp, if they can form a hole therein six feet deep where the fish may in winter lie
secure from freezing. These can live only in water so shallow that aquatic plants,
which are their only food, may grow.. Where much underdraining has been done the
accumulated water may serve to feed a small pond. If you have a spring on the
farm carry that to the pond if possible. There is one thing worthy of being remem-
bered ; Water that- supports both animal and vegetable life is never stagnant and
hence is fit for stock-water. A stagnant pond is not.
568
THE HOME AXD FARM MANTjAL.
XI. How to Form the Pond.
The German carp is a pond fish, requiring warm water; in cold weather it hyber-
ates in the deep part of the pond. This fish has long been artificially grown in Ger-
many, having been brought originally from China, where it has been cultivated from
time immemorial. Its growth is exceedingly rapid when the condition of the water is
proper for producing vegetation. If the pond is fed by springs, or from deep-laid
tiles, the cold water Will naturally settle and flow along the bottom. There should be
an outlet near the bottom through which the cool water may be drawn off for use in
watering stock, etc. The pond should be, say four feet deep, with one or two pools
six feet deep or more. A waste-way should be provided for the surplus water, and a
ABTIFIOLAL SPAWNING BED.
sluice for drawing off the water of the pond, when necessary, for cleaning, etc. In the
mud of the deep pools, just described, the fish pass the winter, in a torpid state. In this
deep portion they will congregate when the water is drawn off, the sluice-way being
protected by a grating. This waste-way may be made at any point along the dam, and is
simply a continuous box, say six inches or more in diameter. The passage-way for the
water being about twelve inches below the top of the dam. When the water reaches the
proper level it will pass up from the bottom, over the top and through the sluice,
either directly to the trough, or may be conducted any distance to it, or to a series of
troughs at any point below.
It is -well-known that water is a poor conductor of heat. That is to say, the
heated water at the surface extends down only a short distance. The carp like warm
FISH AND FISH PONDS. 669
water. This is also conducive to aquatic vegetation, the principal food of carp.
Hence, the necessity of drawing off the surplus water from below. If game fish are
required, take the water directly from the top, since the requirement would be that
the water be kept as cool as possible. Where drainage water is used to supply a carp
pond, the point where the water enters from the mains must be higher than the high-
est water-mark, to prevent the deposit of silt, and it would be better if the water of
drainage could be conducted directly, in pipes, along the bottom of the pond, to
the deep pools. The water out-flowing would be cooler for stock; the warm water
of the shallow portion of the pond would retain its heat, and an abundance of food be
provided for the carp.
CHAPTEE VII.
COMMON SENSE TIMBER PLANTING.
1. THE ECONOMY OF TIMBER. II. WHAT TIMBER REALTY DOES FOR A COUNTRY. III. WHAT
TIMBER TO PLANT. IV. OTIR EXPERIENCE IN TREE PLANTING. V. THE POETRY OF THE
FOREST.
,i, I. The Economy of Timber.
9N the mountain country strict legislation should prevent the destruction of the
forests. There the rainfall should be soaked among the roots, and the leaves
and twigs retained at the foot of trees, whose shade prevents the sun's rays
reaching the ground in full force. Then the water flows gradually away, giving
to the country perennial rivulets. Remove the trees and this same water forms
torrents which sweep before them the soil, leaving the hillsides bare, and, the rainfall
over, the sun bakes the land into a desert. The rivers rise in a night from wretched
streams, twining along through enormous beds of sand and silt to resistless currents
bearing destruction to everything in their course. In a level country all the conditions
are different, and in this, an agricultural work, the fair, arable land is all of which
we consider the needs. So far as regards the great acreage of the lands of the
United States the necessity for dense belts of timber is not as great as it has frequently
been represented to be. The work of our horticultural and forestry societies has
kept the people alive to the importance of the subject, although some of them have
published assertions not borne out by later and more careful investigations. The
writer once held somewhat extravagant notions which a more careful study of the
subject did not confirm. One was upon the amount of forest per square mile of a
country necessary to promote the best results in the cultivation of field crops. He
finally settled upon the French standard of one-quarter of the area of a country.
This we have modified from time to time until now we assert, without hesitation, that
one-tenth of the area of a country, equally distributed over farms as they may be in
the prairie and plains region of the United States, will be amply suflScient, not only
for the uses for which timber is designed, but also to insure the best results in the
cultivation of crops.
For Cutting into Lumber. — ^In the production of valuable timber the above
proportion will be fully equal to one quarter of the area of a country in wild forest,
especially where such timber is grouped into large and broken areas of country. In
cultivated forests valuable varieties are planted, and upon soil congenial to them.
They are planted at proper distances, and the result is the product, per acre, for each
year bears the same ratio of product that any cultivated crop does over a wild one.
So far as the protection to crops is concerned, that afforded by carefully planted trees,
of the proper kinds, placed, scientifically where the greatest benefit may be derived
[570]
COMMON SENSE TIMBER PLANTING. 571
from their growth, greatly exceeds that received from, larger but widely scattered
forest areas. And since the cultivation of timber is now generally conceded to be
fairly remunerative, there is no reason why all, who have no timber, should longer
delay its planting.
II. What Timber Really Does for a Country.
Timber, generally distributed, modifies the climate in that the rains are more
frequent and moderate, and the climate is, as a rule, more humid. The sun does not
create so great a heat during the day, the radiation is less at night, and hence, the
temperature is more equable. The average rainfall of a country may be the same
with or without timber. With timber it will be more equally distributed. A country
may have the same average yearly pressure of wind with or without timber, but the
probability is that a timbered country will be less subject to tornadoes, tearing every
work of man from their pathway. It is not laborious this planting of timber — not
more so than the intelligent cultivation of corn.
Do we hesitate to wait so long as we must for the returns of our labor? We
have to wait three and four years for our steers and colts to grow into usefulness, and
from five to ten years on our orchards to pay for the labor bestowed on them. Five
to ten years will give us poles, posts and fire wood from our planted trees, and twenty
years will give us timber.
III. What Timber to Plant.
To RAISE timber for profit we must plant, first, those varieties which enter most
largely into the economy of civilized life — conifers, white pine, Norway spruce,
Scotch pine, arbor vitae, and European larch ; of decidious trees, white ash, black
walnut, sugar, silver and soft maple, and the hardy Western catalpa (C. speciosa).
Second: In planting a forest, in a prairie country, set apart a portion of the land
for trees of rapid growth, to use before the slower growing species come foi'ward.
Among these rapid growers the cottonwoods, white and golden willow, and silver
maple are the best.
We have already stated, in the appropriate chapters, that trees should be planted
to ornament the landscape and to shelter stock and buildings. We have no very
correct data in this country on the growth of forests. This we know — that they will
reach a given size in two-thirds the time it requires in Europe where forestry has been
systematically carried on for many years.
Time of Growth. — The late Dr. Warder, one of the fathers of forest planting
in America, stated that the coppice growths in European forestry are often utilized in
periods of ten or fifteen years; in our own country, too, we have many trees of short
rotation, and some of the most useful and most profitable trees are of this character.
The black locust may be harvested after it has grown from twenty to thirty
years.
The catalpa speciosa in the same period will make good cross-ties and fence posts.
572 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
The ailanthus very soon attains a useful size, and for certain purposes has been
very highly commended, both in this country and in Europe. Prof. C. S. Sargent is
advising its extensive plantation, and some" years ago it was spoken of as the most
promising tree for the arid plains of the Southwest.
The forests of Scotch pine in Germany are allowed sixty years to reach their
useful size for fuel and timber.
The birch there reaches its maturity in about half a century.
The willow, used for charcoal needed in the manufacture of gunpowder, may be
cut after growing twenty years or even less.
Chestnut, in its second growth, is most profitably cut every twenty or twenty-
five years.
The wood of the wild cherry soon reaches a profitable size for manj^ purposes,
though for saw-logs and lumber the trees should be larger.
Many individual trees, planted by the pioneers upon the broad plains of Nebraska,
within the few years the white men have occupied the so-called "American Desert,"
have already attained to useful size and will yield each a cord of fire-wood.
Protection and Fuel. — The protection from cold winds afforded by groves of
wood is also an economic consideration. A well-sheltered dwelling-house requires less
fuel to warm it in cold weather than an exposed one. Animals, if well sheltered, need
less grain and forage. Crops, too, are benefited by shelters. I have repeatedly, in
cold backward seasons, noticed the difference between corn protected by woodland
and that on the open prairie.
From ten to twenty years, varying with the rapidity of growth of the trees
planted, is, with proper care, a sufficient time to raise a grove of timber large enough
to constitute an efficient protection, and to supply wood for most of the purposes for
which it is needed on a farm. As has been often said, the trees will be growing while
he who planted them is sleeping. No man who had grown a shelter of that sort
would have it removed for ten times the cost of raising it.
For. Other Uses. — The trees most suitable to plant for economic uses are to be
noticed. "Where it is desirable to have wood for shelter and use as speedily as possible
the white willow and silver maple are perhaps the best, as they are easily raised and
grow rapidly. The white willow thickly planted, produces long straight poles, which
are very serviceable in making fence and will last a long time. It may also be made
useful as a screen for plantations of other trees which can not so well endure the
buifets of unchecked winds on the naked prairie.
The trees should be planted four feet apart each way, and thinned as occasion
requires. The poles cut in thinning will be found useful. At eight feet apart the
larch will, in twelve or fifteen years, grow large enough for posts and railroad ties.
Grown thus thickly, the tree shoots up perfectly straight, with small side branches, so
that the entire trunk is available for use. I have trees eighteen years planted, more
than fifty feet high and straight as arrows. Some have supposed that as the American
larch is commonly found in swamps the European species has the same habitat. This
COMMON SENSE TIMBER PLANTING. ^jTo
is a mistake — it should be planted on dry ground; it will thrive in rocky, barren soils ;
poor, broken land suits it better than rich, flat prairies.
IV. Our Experience in Tree Planting.
Our individual experience with tree planting may be stated as follows : Cotton-
woods planted sixteen years, along the street, will measure from sixteen to twenty-two
inches in diameter near the ground, and will average nearly a cord per tree if felled.
Had they been planted sixteen feet apart and kept free of weeds for three years,
their average would have been about sixteen inches each in diameter, and they would
have made over one-half cord each of wood; certainly eighty cords per acre. Wild
cherry planted at the same time are twelve inches through near the ground.
Balsam Firs. — A row of balsam firs, planted at the same time, eight feet apart
for a wind-break, are from nine to fourteen inches through, about forty feet high,
and so thickly clothed from the ground up, that a man cannot separate the branches
to break through them. A Norway spruce, standing single, is thirty feet high, and
fourteen inches through next the ground, the branches regular from the ^'oots up,
and of a circumference of sixty feet.
Black Walnut, — A black walnut of the same age is thirteen inches through
near the ground, and a white walnut — butternut — is of the same diameter ; both have
borne regular crops — a half -bushel each per year — for the last six years. Golden
willows are twenty inches in diameter of trunk, and linden, twelve years planted, are
eleven inches in diameter.
Hard and Soft Timber. — ;Thus we see that hard wooded timber will in this
time be large enough for any of the ordinary uses of the farm, and that soft and fast
growing timber will, in from twelve to sixteen years, become large trees, and will be
worth for fuel, in any region where fuel is scarce, fully $350 per acre for cord wood.
White willow will grow nearly as fast as cotton wood, and is really an excellent
substitute for hard wood for fuel and rails, until better can be grown.
When a Nuisance. — A good deal has been said, first and last, about the
nuisance of planting lines of trees along the roadside as wind-breaks ; that thus they
cause snow to lodge in the road, often rendering it impassable in winter, and keeping
it wet and miry for a long time in the spring. There is a good deal of force in this
argument, and we have always held that it should not be done, unless the planting
were so open as to allow fair passage to the wind.
Another objection, and in many cases a serious one, is, -that crops suffer for
three or four rods next such rows' of trees in the fields adjoining. The remedy, how-
ever, is simple. Do not plant trees unless the crop next them maybe pasture or
meadow. Grass will do fairly next trees where other crops will not. Why? Simply
because there is generally moisture enough in the spring and fall for the grass, but
the roots of trees in the summer absorb a large share of the moisture, to the detri-
ment of crops of grain, and especially corn.
The Remedy. — How, then, shall we obviate snowdrifts from roadside plantings?
574 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Either by planting at such distance, and of such trees, as create but little impedi-
ment to the wind, or, else, by planting lines of suflScient width to catch the snow
within their own area.
Trees planted at a distance of from thirty to sixty feet, with the limbs sufficiently
high to allow the passage of teams under them, do not collect drifts.
Lines of trees for wind-breaks should never be less than sixty to one hundred
feet in breadth ; but if of this width they will catch the snow-fall and drift within
their own shade.
The great mistake made by railway companies in planting along the -lines of their
roads is, the lines of trees have not been of sufficient width to catch the snow, but
have in many instances allowed it to sift through and fill the very cuts they were
intended to protect.
Now protection from drifts would have been certainly accomplished if either
deciduous trees, or better, evergreens, had been planted in' strips of sixty to one
hundred and fifty feet wide, according to the annual' snow-fall, and experience ; the
latter width being sufficient for any climate except some mountainous districts, such
as are found, for instance, upon the line of the Union Pacific. So, a wind-break
sixty feet wide, when tolerably grown, will protect any of our railways in the West,
and the road-bed, if well graded, will not suffer seriously from mud in the spring.
V. The Poetry of the Forest.
As a Western man, and one who, as man and boy, has seen Illinois, (now a great
and populous State) redeemed from the grip of the savage Indian, we have learned to
appreciate the value of forests, and love their varying beauty. Who, among the
dwellers upon the great prairies of the West, has not looked back sometimes, with
longing, to his childhood home, with its forest-clad hills and purling streams, upon
whose moss-clad baiiks many a childhood hour has been dreamed away ? Who does
not, in imagination, revisit the mountain stream, where the trout flashes his silvery
sides; or the rocky cliff, within whose niches delicate mosses, ferns, blue-bells and
violets tremble in the breeze ?
" The groves were God's first temples,"
and here, before man learned
" To hew the shaft and lay the architrave,
Amidst the cool and silence he knelt down
And offered to the Mightiest, solemn thanks.'
Has it ever occurred to the farmer of the West, how much more lovely this beau-
tiful land would be if they could be permitted to return, and as upon wings, view the
landscape, after the lapse of three or four centuries had enabled each farm to have its
own little forest, and each home its sheltering grove — to see the climate modified and
softened ; — the gardens blooming with what to us are exotics, and the orchards drop-
ping ripe and delicate fruits that now we cannot hope for; — to see the grateful herds
COMMON SENSE TIMBER PLANTING. 575
at midsummer, slaking their thirst from rills born within cool forest-crowned slopes
whose. mighty monarchs
' Wave their giant arms athwart the sky ! — "
or in the valley, where sycamore, and maple, and beech, and linden, and the tulip
tree, rear their leafy heads; or beside the streamlet, where the willow and the aspen
lave their roots ; or against the bank, where the wild cherry and dogwood, the thorn
and crab-apple fill the air with fragrance ; — where
'• All meek things,
All that need home and covert, love your shade .
Birds, of shy song, and low-voiced quiet springs,
And nun-like violets, by the wind betrayed ; — "
or, wandering, love the foliage as- we pass, where
, " Honeyed lime.
Showers cool, gi-een light o'er banks where flowers weave
Thi,ck tapestry ; and woodbine tendrils climb
Up the brown oak, and buds of moss and thyme —
And the white poplar, from its foliage hoar.
Scatter forth gleams like moonlight, with each gale
That sweeps the boughs."
Then the landscape would gain beauty from the tulip tree —
" That tuneth its harp-leaves to the wind gust;—'"
or from the light, quivering aspen —
" That bowed not its head when the Eedeemer passed,
And so shivers and trembles until He returns."
The forest has its charms too, in winter, when
" The wood's soft echoes mock the baying hound;"
and —
" All day long
The woodman plies his sharp and sudden axe
Under the crashing branches."
Do we really estimate how pleasant a land we have — this prairie country — stretch-
ing away and away, like a vast, undulating ocean concreted by the hand of its Maker
into firm land; verdant with emerald slopes; gorgeous with flowers, lacking only one
thing to make it perfect — Trees.
Do those who swelter under our torrid summers, or lament our arctic winters,
realize that with one acre in ten or twenty planted in timber, how perfect this land
would become in all that makes a fertile country ? The heat of summer tempered ; our
winters shorn of their terrors. How many know that, with each farm containing its
little forest, each home its sheltering grove, the climate would be modified and
softened ; the gardens bloom with what to us now are exotics ; orchards drop ripe
and delicate fruits that now we cannot hope for ; or fields bear a wealth of grain that
576 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
would not be laid low with devastating storm, torn and tangled by tornadoes, or
swept away by devouring floods. All tliese terrors we now sometimes experience.
Give us, then, trees about each homestead. Is it not pleasant, the pictures which
our best-loved poet, Bryant, pen-paints of the forest, where
" The century -living crow,
Whose birth was in their tops, grew old and died
Among their branches, till at last they stood
As now they stand, massy, and tall, and dark, —
Fit shrine for humble worshiper to hold
Communion with his Maker."
These shall be green with gladness in the spring-time ; glowing under the summer
sun, they wiU shelter grateful heads and happy homes ; fling their banners of purple,
and crimson, and gold, in the autiunn breeze.
If we plant forests, poets of generations who succeed us may sing, as the
poet Hempstead has sung of those we are now transplanting from seeds of the
Pacific Slope. Of the great California redwoods, he says:
"They were green when in the rushes lay and moaned the Hebrew child;
They were growing when the granite of the pyramids was piled ;
Green when Punic hosts at Cannae bound the victor's gory sheaves,
And the grim and mangled Romans lay around like auUimn leaves.
From their tops the crows were calling when the streets of Eome were grass,
And the brave Three Hundred with their bodies blocked the rocky pass;
In their boughs the owl was hooting when upon the hill of Mars
Paul rang out the coming judgment, pointing upward to the stars.
Here, with loving hand transplanted, in the noonday breeze they wave,
And by night, in silent seas of silver-arrowed moonbeams lave."
To enjoy the shade of trees in the West, we must plant them. If we would
seek the shelter of the woods at noon-day, we must make it. "Would we leave the
noblest heritage to our children that the Western farmer can, — a growing grove of
timber, — aU that is necessary is, each spring, plant trees! plant tkees I
Part VI.
INSECTS AND BIEDS
IN
THEIR EELATION TO THE FAEM.
INSECTS INJUKIOUS AND BENEFICIAL.
ILLUSTEATED CLASSIFICATION OF INSECTS.
REMEDIES AND PREVENTIVES AGAINST DAMAGE.
BIRDS TO BE FOSTERED OR DESTROYED.
INSECTS AKD BIRDS.
CHAPTER I.
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE FARM.
PRACTICAL VALUE OP ENTOMOLOGY. II. DESTROYING INSECTS ON NURSERY TREES. III. ORCH-
ARD CULTURE IN RELATION TO INSECTS. IV. CARE OP TREES IN RELATION TO INSECTS. V.
PREDATORY BIRDS AND INSECTS. VI. THE STUDY OP INSECTS. ^VII. CLASSIFICATION AND
ANATOMY OP INSECTS. ^VIII. DIVISIONS OP INSECTS ACCORDING TO THEIR FOOD. IX. NOXIOUS
AND INJURIOUS INSECTS.
I. Practical Value of Entomology. x
a science, entomology interests few ; but it has done as much for the farm and
garden as any other of the many departments of learning which are, more or
.f'^ less, connected with agriculture. To the tireless labors of students of insect
^^ life, the farmer, the gardener and the pomologist are deeply indebted for
careful investigations into the habits and characteristics of injurious insects and their
foes. They have taught us remedies for the ravages of the insect pests, and the
means of extending the benefits derived from their predatory and carnivorous enemies.
Farmers have, as a rule, given little attention to the study of insect life, probably
because few of these insects feed upon grain. They have, however, been active in
the destruction of birds, which the more skillful of the horticulturists have always
protected. This thinning out of bird life has increased the insect world to such a
degree, that the army worm, chinch bug, weevils, wire worms, corn worms and other
noxious forms have become a scourge.
"Why have farmers persistently destroyed the warblers, a class of birds that live
largely on insects? Simply because of their ignorance, for if, at certain seasons, these
eat a little of the green corn, at all other times of the year they are a blessing to the
farmer. The same is true of the mole, of mice, shrew mice, bats, skunks and owls, of
some hawks, and even of our little striped prairie squirrel. He, indeed, has a bad
name among farmers, yet he hunts persistently for the May-beetle (white grub),
both in the larval and pupal state.
II. Destrosdng Insects on Nursery Trees.
A COMMISSION of horticulturists was, a few years ago, appointed in Illinois, to
take into consideration the best means of destroying injurious insects ; to solve, if
possible, the question of what birds were beneficial, and also to investigate fungus
growths and their influences. With this commission, were Dr. Cyrus Thomas, State
[579J
580 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
Entomologist; Prof. T. J. Burrell, of the Illinois Industrial University; Prof. A. S.
Forbes, of the State Normal University, at Normal, 111., now State Entomologist ; and
also some of the prominent horticulturists of the State. They went carefully over the
whole ground chosen, but this was limited to the nursery and orchard, because more
injury had been there felt than in any other one direction. The rules they gave will,
however, be applicable to the farm and garden so far as the soil is concerned, and
with the special directions given later, will enable any one to combat, successfully,
the growing danger from insect pests.
Preparation of the Soil. — Ground to be used for seeds, grafts or cuttings
should be cleaned of rubbish, and cultivated without a crop of any kind, (fallow
plowed), and plowed late in the fall at least one season before planting. This will,
in a great measure, free the soil from noxious insects, notably the white grub, larvae
of the May beetle, the wire worms, larvae of the elators, (these wire worms would not
be entirely destroyed, but generally), all the noxious worms known as cut-worms,
particularly those that are destructive early in the spring, the striped plant bug —
though this being an insect that flies strongly, the remedy would only be partial —
nearly all the caterpillars that pass the winter in the larvae or pupa state, and would
also be a great help in freeing the land from leaf -destroying insects of various kinds.
By clearing off rubbish is meant, the cleaning of the ground of all such matter
as cannot readily be plowed under and would not readily decay, so as to make plant
food; and in localities where the disease known as " rotten root " prevails, all decay-
ing wood should be carefully removed.
Grafts, Seeds, Seedlings and Cuttings. — All these should be carefully ex-
amined for the eggs of noxious insects, such as bai'k-lice, leaf-lice, root-lice, etc.
Apple seedlings should be carefully examined, and if any indications of the woolly-
root aphis or woolly apple-root plant-lice are seen on them, the whole lot of seedlings
should be carefully washed in strong soap-suds, and packed away for a few days in
saw-dust before grafting them. Scions for grafting should not be used if infested
with eggs of leaf-lice, aphides (very small, shiny black globules stuck on the surface),
and bark-lice — small scale-like things, the worst of which is shaped like the one-half
of an oyster shell, known as the oyster shell bark-louse, and of the color of- the bark,
others more flattened and whitish — unless they can be entirely removed. It is only
safe to entirely reject such scions ; if only a few out of thousands are used that are
infested with these bark-lice, they will infest the whole nursery ; a few scions of
a special variety might be cleared from them.
Cultivation the First Year. — Thorough and clean cultivation from planting
until the first of August for grafts and seedlings, and other things to be taken up in
the fall, until they are taken up. This clean culture not only keeps noxious insects
from accumulating, but gives the plants vigor to withstand their attacks, and also of
mildew (fungi). The plants should not be too crowded in the rows, as this would
induce a weak growth, rendering them liable to attacfks of mildew and insects. Apple
grafts should not be cultivated later than the middle of July to the first of August,
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE FARM. 581
and at the last working should have corn or oats sown thickly among them, or the
seed for a crop of fall turnips; this to check and ripen up for winter. No sod-form-
ing grasses should be allowed to grow near the nursery, as it affords breeding places
and hiding (wintering) places for many noxious insects, such as white grubs (young
of the May beetle), wire worms (larvse of elators), cut-worms (various larvae of
agrotis), army worms (larvse of lucania), and of numerous species of leaf-hoppers.
Lime and Sulphur. — Insects and mildews (fungi) injurious to the leaves of
seedlings and root grafts, can be kept in subjection or destroyed by a free use of the
following combination of lime and sulphur — it may be called the bi-sulphate of lime:
Take of quick or unslaked lime four parts, and of common flowers of sulphur one part
(four pounds of sulphur to one peck of lime) ; break up the lime in small bits, then,
mixing the sulphur with it in a tight vessel (iron best), pour on them enough boiling
water to slake the lime to a powder, cover in the vessel close as soon as the water is
poured on. This makes also a most excellent whitewash for orchard trees, and is
very useful as a preventive to blight on pear trees, to cover the wounds in the form
of a paste when cutting away diseased parts ; also for coating the trees in April. It
may'be considered as the one specific for many noxious insects and mildew in the
orchard and nursery. Its materials should always be ready at hand ; it should be used
quite fresh, as it would in time become sulphate of lime, and so lose its potency.
Whenever dusting wiih lime is spoken of, this should be used. This preparation
should be sprinkled over the young plants soon as, or before, any trouble from leaf-
lice (Aphides), mildew, mould (fungi), thrips or leaf -hoppers appear, early in the
morning, while the dew is on. This lime and sulphur combination is destructive to
these things in this way: .Firstly, by giving off sulphuric acid gas, which is deadly
poison to minute life, both animal and fungoid; and the lime destroys, by contact,
the same things. Besides, its presence is noxious to them. Neither is injurious to
common vegetable life, except in excess, except the lime to the foliage of evergreens.
Cultivation the Second and Subsequent Years. — Cultivation of the soil
similar to that of the first year. The sulphur and lime to be used the same as the
year before. The first thing to be looked after in the winter or early spring is the
larvse of the leaf-crumpler. This is readily discovered ; as a little bunch of dried
leaves strung to the twigs by a silken thread, the larvse will be found in this, encased
in a little horn-shaped case. These should be carefully picked off and destroyed.
It is best not to burn or crush these, as many of them are parasitized; if not des-
troyed, the parasite, being mature, will develop, and go on with its good work; while
if the Physita larvse are merely ' ' dumped ' ' on the ground a little way from any
trees, it at this time not being mature, will certainly starve. Hand picking is the
only remedy for these crumplers, as well as for other small, noxious, and sometimes
very destructive caterpillars, to wit : the lesser apple-leaf folder, known by its
usually folding together the apex of a leaf, and feeding between the folds; the apple-
leaf folder and the apple-leaf skeletonizer. Of these, the first one is protected from
destructive applications by the folds of the leaf on which it feeds ; and the last one
582 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
by a web which it spins, and under which it feeds. The last may be seen by a bi'own
patch near the base of the leaf; these are the larvae of quite small moths, and as
these are generally two or more brooded, great care should be taken to destroy the
fifst brood in the larval state, by searching for and crushing them between the thumb
and fingers, as it appears there is no other way of reaching them. If the first brood
are all destroyed there can be no second brood. They should be carefully sought for
from about the middle of June to the first of July, and destroyed. The lime and
sulphur will be of great help in holding them in check. Borers are sometimes injur-
ious in the nursery, but will be found under the next head.
III. Orchard Culture iu Relation to Insects.
Trees for the orchard should be sound and free from insects, and the eggs of
insects. If infested with bark-lice they should be rejected; if with root-lice, their
roots should be thoroughly washed in strong soap-suds. Eggs of the white tussock
moth should be destroyed. The orchard should have a high, dry, well-drained situa-
tion, soil neither very rich nor poor; the trees thus make a stronger matured growth,
therefore better able to withstand climatic changes and the attacks of insects and
fungi. If such a proper selection is made, it needs no other preparation than such
as would be sufficient for planting a corn crop. The cleaning of the ground should
be the same as recommended for the nursery
Trees for Flauting. — Trees for planting in the orchard should have branches
low enough to partially shade their trunks, and when planted should lean considerably
to the southwest. This leaning should be done to prevent the damage to the south-
west side of the trunks, commonly known as "sun scald," which invites attacks of
the flat-headed apple tree borer.
Cultivation of the orchard before coming into bearing, or the first five or eight
years may be as follows : It should be planted with corn, if the land is rich ; if thin,
in potatoes or other suitable hoed crop. When the trees are old and large enough to
bear, the orchard should be sown in red clover, but in no case should small grain or
any of the perennial grasses be sown in it. If the growth is too vigorous, check it,
and throw the trees into bearing ; clover harbors and feeds less noxious insects than
any grass-like plant that makes a close sod, and should always be used for this pur-
pose. Plowing should always be done, if possible, before the starting of growth in
the spring; the summer culture with the harrow and cultivator alone, so as not to
destroy the roots in the growing season. Late fall plowing, though not recommended
as a rule, will be found of great use occasionally, in destroying and keeping in check
the canker-worm, grub of the May beetle, the climbing and other cut worms, tar-
nished plant bug, and the bugs and chrysalids of other noxious insects that pass the
winter in the grub or larval state. Such plowing should in all cases be shallow, and
if the canker-worm or grub is present, great care should be taken to turn and break
up all the soil ; where it cannot be reached under the trees with the plow, the spade
should be used.
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE FAKM. 583
Orchardists should bear in mind that continued healthy vigor of the trees
throughout their lives, not too rampant, is essential, to enable them to withstand the
attacks of noxious insects, and to enable them to recuperate when attacked; there-
fore, if the trees at any time present a sickly or unthrifty condition, the soil should
be manured or cultivated, or both.
Mulching. — Whenever mulching is applied, the portions immediately about the
collar of the tree should be mixed with ashes or lime, to prevent noxious insects from
working and harboring there.
IV. Care of the Trees in Belation to Insects.
Twigs during the winter season, upon which the eggs of injurious insects are
seen, should be cut off and burned, if the eggs cannot be readily and completely
destroyed in some other way — such as hand-picking, crushing, etc. These include
the eggs of the tent caterpillars, which are found 300 to 400 cemented in a bunch,
surrounding a twig; eggs of the tree hoppers, which are found in little slits imme-
diately beneath the outer bark; eggs of leaf-hce, minute, shining, black globules
scattered upon twigs of the last year's growth.
Cleaning the Trees — A general cleaning of the trees in winter should be
carefully attended to. Pick off all cocoons, leaf-crumplers, basket or drop worms,
eggs of the Tussock moth found on sides of deserted cocoons, etc. Old trees, neg-
lected heretofore in orchards, should have their trunks carefully scraped of all rough
bark ; but if the directions below given are followed, there will be no scales of bark to
scrape off. The trunks and larger branches of the trees should be washed at least
once each year with soft soap (thinned somewhat), or a strong alkaline wash, be-
tween the middle of May and middle of June, according to latitude, and if washed
off soon by heavy rains, should be renewed ; this renders, them free of rough scales
of bark, which harbors many noxious insects and parasitic plants, and is an effectual
remedy against attacks of the flat-headed apple-tree borer, which is often very
destructive. In the North, the round-headed apple-tree borer preys upon the tree
near the surface of the ground ; therefore, in April or May a small portion of the soil
should be removed from the collar of the tree, and this should be filled in and
mounded up a little with lime or ashes. This mounding up prevents the beetle laying
her eggs so low down on the trunk as that access to the larvae would be difficult ; be-
sides, the lime, ashes and the soap, as alkaline washes, are all obnoxious to her. This
beetle deposits her eggs during the months of June, July and August, but mostly in
June and July, on the trunk of the trees near the ground — rarely in the branches or
under the surface. The trees should be carefully examined for the borers during the
last half of September, and if any are found their burrows should be opened and the
larvae (young borers) killed. If they have penetrated deeply, they may be punched
to death with a flexible twig or wire. Their burrows may be readily found by the
reddish-brown castings thrust from them. This is the most insidious foe of the apple
orchardist, in the Northwest, and too much pains cannot be taken in destroying them.
584 THE HOME AXD FARM MAXUAE.
Flat-Head Borer. — The larvae of the flat-headed apple-tree borer may be found
in the trunk and at the base of the larger branches and in or near any patches of sun
scald, wounds or abrasions, and near the base of dead limbs, by a little discoloration
of the bark; and by taking off a thin shaving of the discolored bark, the larvte may
be seen and destroyed. This work should be done in the months of August and
September. If the larva has penetrated deep into the wood, it will often be found
best not to cut it out, as the wound made in doing so would be worse than the injury
done by the grub if left alone. A place attacked by this grub on a tree is most liable
to be so again the next year, therefore it should be carefully watched.
Bark-Lice. — Ti-ees infested by bark-lice may be partiallj' cleared of them by
washing with an alkaline wash (and thoroughly dusting with the lime and sulphur
compound), at the time the young are hatched out, which is from ]\Iay to June 15,
according to season and latitude. These young lice are very small and delicate ; when
hatched from the eggs under the scales they crawl around for a few days and then fix
themselves to the bark, and never move again, and soon become covered with a hard
shell, which acts as a protection, and a most perfect one, too, dimng the rest of their
existence; hence they are hard to destroy, except when in the young (moving) state.
These lice, though small and insignificant looking, are exceedingly hurtful to trees
infested with them ; their immense number, sucking the vital Juices of the trees during
the entire season, fearfully weakens them, and too great pains can not be taken to
prevent their gaining a foothold in the orchard, and to destroy them if they should.
Fine lime dust, sprinkled over the trees at this time, is not only useful for these
young bark-lice, but also for leaf-lice and the codling-moth.
Nests of the tent caterpillar, fall web- worm, and other insects that feed and nest
together, should be carefully removed from the trees and destroyed. Be careful that
the caterpillars are in their nests when taking them off.
For the destruction of the canker-worm, the rope bands, with encircling tin
bands, are recommended. The late fall plowing, already spoken of, destroAs a large
portion of the chrysalids of this insect, and when done for this purpose, should be as
late as September and the soil all carefully turned over and broken up, especially
under the trees near the trunk, and left as x-ough as possible.
Protection of the Fruit from Insects. — The codling-moth, or core- worm
of the apple is best combated b\' thoroughly dusting the trees from above downwards,
so that it may fall into the calyx of the young apples, with the lime and sulphur
preparation fineh" powdered. This should be done immediately after the petals of
the flowers fall, and the young fruit begins to form. If delayed too long, the worm
will have entered the apple, and be out of reach of the lime. The lime dust is also
very distasteful to the moth. The egg from which this apple-worm is hatched is laid
by a small, nocturnal moth, in the calyx or blossom end of the apple; it soon hatches
and the young caterpillar eats its way into the core of the apple, where it feeds about
thu-ty-four days, when it eats its way out and seeks a secure hiding-place in which to
spin its cocoon, and undergo its transformation. In its cocoon it soon changes to a
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE FARM. 585
pupa, and in about twelve days emerges as a moth, ready in a few days to lay its eggs
in the apples. The use of the bands spoken of below is to entrap the insect while in
its cocoon. The best means for entrapping the larvae of this insect are tlie cloth,
paper or woolen bands. These may be old cloths of any kind, carpets, woollen or
other cloth garments of any kind, torn in strips three to four inches wide, coarse,
cheap straw or felt paper, untarred building paper, veneering cut as for berry boxes,
etc., in strips three to six inches wide, and wrapped around the tree two or more
times, and tacked or tied fast. If the trees are clear of rough bark, the larvaa will
seek these bands, as being the best available place in which to spin their cocoons, and
the bands can be examined and the insects destroyed. These bands should be placed
around the trees as early as the tenth of June for latitude 40 degrees ; a week earlier
for the South, and must be examined as often as once in twelve days, and the insects
destroyed during the balance of the season. The last brood of worms, on leaving
the apples, spin their cocoons, but remain as worms during the winter, and do not
change to the pupa state until the following spring ; hence all barrels and bins in
which apples have been stored will be full of these larvae in their cracks and crevices.
They should be hunted out and destroyed. Many naoths may be destroyed on the
windows or cellars where apples have been stored.
V. Predatory Birds and Insects.
It may be laid down as a principle that all insects and all birds that feed entirely
on vegetation are injurious, and that all insects are beneficial that feed on their kind.
Birds that feed on their kind are, however, often most injurious; for the rapacious
ones (hawks and others of predatory habit) feed on the smaller, insect-eating birds.
We have shown that the horticulturist finds many birds inimical that are benefi-
cial in agriculture. Hence, a wise discretion must be exercised; and hence, also, the
necessity that each should know his friends from his foes. This necessitates some
study both of entomology and of birds.
The common birds and animals are known because we readily see them ; not so
with insects. Many of these work under ground during the destructive stages of their
lives, and, all being small, and most of them hidden while in the egg state and during
the feeding period, they are diflScult to distinguish. We will illustrate some of the
more destructive, and describe others, so the farmer and horticulturist may easily
distinguish friend from foe.
VI. The Study of Insects.
The classification of insects has been carefully done by the late Dr. Le Baron,
while entomologist of Illinois, and we shall follow this author in our general and con-
densed description.
All insects are not bugs, nor are they worms. All bugs and worms are not in-
sects; yet, originally, spiders, worms, and even Crustacea (snails and other animals
covered with shells) were so termed. But the term insect is now restricted to the
586
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
hexapods (six-footed species), beetles, bees, bugs, grasshoppers, locusts, fleas, etc.,
produced from eggs, whatever the secondary mode of propagation may be.
Since, then, many of these insects are destructive to the farmer's crops, it is
important he should not only recognise them, but know where they are to be found
Fig. 6
I'ig. 8.
Forms of Tiger Beetle.— Figs. 6—9.
BENEFICIAL DSTSECTS.
in the egg state, and how they may, most easily, be destroyed, what the mature in-
sect is, moth, butterfly or beetle, and the best means for their destruction, to preventj
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE FAKM.
587
so far as possible, the laying of the eggs. He should, also, be able to easily distin-
gnish the predatory, or carnivorous, species, such as lady-birds, tiger-beetles, soldier-
beetles, ichneumon-flies, laceTwings and others which are insect eaters and should be
carefully preserved. Hence, the value of an outline of entomology.
Insects Illustrated. — The illustrations on page 586, showing several beneficial
insects, will be worth a careful study. The lady-birds are insect eaters, in both the
larval and perfect state. In the perfect state they eat the eggs of insects, being thus
Fig. 2.
Gi'eon Soldier Bug.
Fig. 1.
Wheel Bug.
Fig. 3.
Lady Birds.
Fig. 4.
Fig. 6.
Yellow Wasp.
BENEFICIAL INSECTS.
doubly valuable. The tiger beetles are also insect eaters, in the larval and perfect
state. Fig. 1 shows one of the many species of dragon flies {Libellula). The larvae
are aquatic and predaceous, as are also, the perfect insects (flies). Their food con-
sists of various insects, which they catch " on the wing," and from their habits, they
may well be called the swallows of the insect tribe. Fig. 2 is a species of harpalus,
an indefatigable destroyer of insects, and Fig. 3, its larva. Fig. 4, shows the eggs of
588 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
the mantis, a great destroyer of insects. This, in the Southern States of the American
Union, is popularly called the devil's rear horse, and in the North, the praying mantis.
It is a long, slender insect, and gets its more northern name from an odd-looking habit
it has of folding together its fore legs. At Fig. 5 is shown the spined soldier bug
{arma spinosa) — untiring hunters and destroyers of larvae, which they impale and
suck dry. Figs. 6, 7, 8 and 9, are several forms of tiger beetles (cicindeldoe) ,
which both as larvae and as perfect beetles prey on insects. Fig. 8, a, shows the
larvae, and b, an enlargement of jaws. All these forms of beetles should be
carefully protected.
On page 587 we show, at Fig. 1, a rapacious insect called devil's horse, or wheel
bug (^Heduvius novenarius), in its various stages. It eats both insects and insect
eggs indiscriminately. At the top of Fig. 1 is shown a veiy little (young) fellow
attacking an egg mass. Fig. 2 shows the green soldier bug (Hhaphigaster hilaris,
Fitch). It has been accused of injuring plants, especially cotton bolls, in the South.
This is an error; when so seen it was seeking for the cotton worm, its natural prey.
All the classes of insects shown on the two pages, 586 and 587, are worthy of
careful study, for they are beneficial to the farmer and should be preserved. Fig. 3
shows one of the lady birds (^Hippodamia convergens) , also its larva and pupa.
They are all carnivorous except the form (^Epilachna borealis^ Fig. 4. This is a
plant eater. Do not mistake others, subsequently shown, for this. Notice the num-
ber and position of the spots, especially those of the segment immediately behind
the eyes. Fig. 5 is a Chalcis fly. This belongs to a valuable family, which lays its
egg either in the egg or body of depredatory insects. Fig. 6 is a yellow wasp
(^poUstes beUicosa), which feeds on the cotton worm and other insects.
VII. Classification and Anatomy of Insects.
Insects; as a class, and, in the widest meaning of the word, comprise three
divisions, or sub-classes, commonly known as spiders, insects and millipedes. They
maybe distinguished by the following characters: (The scientific names in paren-
thesis are for the benefit of students. )
1. Sub-class (Arachnida), including spiders, scorpions and Acari, or mites.
Body divided into two parts, the head and thorax being: united in one : legs eight in
number; without wings.
2. Sub-class (Insecta), ov insects proper. Body divided into three parts, the
head, the thorax and the abdomen; legs six; furnished with wings, in the perfect or
imago state
3. Sub-class (Myriapoda), commonly called millipedes or centipedes. Body
divided into many parts or segments, varying from ten to two hundred; legs numer-
ous ; usually either one or two pairs of legs to each segment of the body ; never have
wings.
Exceptions. — The exceptions to these characters are very few. In the Arach-
nida (spiders, etc.) some of the most minute (^Acari) have but six legs. Insects
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE FARM. 589
proper are always six-legged in their last or perfect state; and they also have,
generally, six true legs in their larval state ; but some larvse have' no legs, and the
larvae of the Lepidoptera, commonly called caterpillars, have, in addition to their
six true legs, several pairs of false legs, or pro-legs, which assist in locomotion.
There are a few exceptional cases in which insects are destitute of wings. The fleas
(PuUces), the lice {Pediculi), and the little family of insects known as spring-tails
(Thysanoura), never have wings. In some rare instances the females are wingless,
whilst the males have wings. This is the case with some species of the lightning-
beetles (^Lampyridoe) , and with the canker-worm moth and the tussock-moth, and a
few other species amongst the Lepidoptera. Similarly exceptional cases are also
found in other orders of insects. .
The Nervous System. — The nervous system of insects consists of a double
cord extending the length of the body, and lying upon the inferior or ventral side of
the internal cavity.. The two threads which compose this cord do not lie side by side;
but one above the other. The lower thread swells at intervals into little knots of
nervous matter, called ganglia. In insects of an elongated form, such as some of
the Neuroptera, and the larvae of the Lepidoptera, there is a ganglion at each seg-
ment of the body, making thirteen in all; but in most mature insects the ganglia
become more or less consolidated. In the butterfly (Papilio), there are ten ganglia,
counting the brain as one; in the bee (Apis), there are eight; in the May -beetle
{Melolontha) , there are five, and in the Cicada there are but two. The upper of the
two nervous threads runs nearly in contact with the lower, but is destitute of ganglia.
These two threads seem to represent the double and more compact cord which consti-
tutes the spinal marrow of the higher or vertebrated animals. The upper, simple
thread is supposed to furnish the nerves of motion, and the lower and ganglionic
thread, the nerves of sensation. The fibers which compose these cords separate at
the anterior extremity of the body, so as to embrace the oesophagus or gullet, above
which they again unite.
The 'Muscles. — The muscles of insects possess a wonderful contractile power
in proportion to their size. A flea can leap two hundred times its own length, and
some beetles can raise more than three hundred times their own weight. This
remarkable strength may probably be attributed to the abundant supply of oxygen
by means of .the myriad ramifications of the air tubes. Insects are evidently
endowed with the ordinary senses which other animals possess, but no special
organs of sense, except those of sight, which have been discovered with certainty.
The Eyes. — The eyes of insects are of two kinds, simple and compound.
The simple or single eyes are called ocelli, and may be compared in appearance to
minute glass beads. They are usually black, but sometimes red, and are generally
three in number, and situated in a triangle on the top of the head. In insects with
a complete metamorphosis, these are the only kind of eyes possessed by them in
their larval state, and in these they are usually arranged in a curved line, five or six
in number, on each side of the head. In some insects which undergo' only a partial
590 THE HOME AXD FARM MAXUAL.
metamorphosis, as for example the common squash-bug (Coreus tristis), the ocelli
are wanting in the larval and jjupal states, but become developed. in the last or perfect
stage.
The compound eyes of insects present one of the most complex and beautiful
mechanisms in the organic world. They are two in number, but proportionately,
very large, occupying in many insects nearly the whole of the sides of the head and,
in the dipterous order especially, often present across their disks, bands of the richest
tints of green, brown and purple. These eyes are found to be composed of a great
number of lesser eyes or eyelets, in the form of elongated cones so closely com-
pacted as to form apparently a single organ. The larger ends of these cones point
outwards, and by their union form the visible eye. Their smaller extremities point
inwards, towards the brain, to which they are connected by means of a large optic
nerve. "When one of these little eyes is examined through a strong magnifying
glass, it is seen to be composed of a veiy great number of little facets, sometimes
square, but usually six-sided, each one of which represents the outer and larger
extremity of one of the component parts. These facets vary greatly in number in
the eyes of different kinds of insects. In the ants there are about fifty in each eye;
in the sphinx moths about 1,300 ; in the house fly, 4,000 ; in the butterfly, upwards
of 17,000; and in some of the small beetles of the genus Mordella, it is said that
more than 25,000 facets have been enumerated in one compound eye; so that if we
suppose that each of these component parts possesses the power of separate vision,
one of these insects must have 50,000 eyes. How vision is effected, or how a unity
of impression can be produced by so complex an organ, we are unable to conceive.
Insects are evidently affected by loud noises, and moreover, as many insects have
the power of producing voluntary sounds, it is reasonable to suppose that they possess
the sense of hearing. No organ, however, which has been generally admitted to be
an organ of hearing, has been discovered.
Insect Transformations. — Nothing in the history of insects is more remark-
able than the striking changes of form which many of them undergo, in the course
of their development. "Whilst other animals progress from infancy to maturity,
simply by a process of growth, and by such gradual and imperceptible changes only
as their growth necessitates, many insects assume totally different forms in the course
of their development, so that they could never be recognized as the same individuals,
if this development had not been actually traced from one stage to another. These
changes are called the metamorphoses or transformations of insects. All insects, in
their growth, pass through four stages, designated as the egg state; the larva, or
caterpillar state; the pupa, or chrysalis state; and the imago, or perfect and winn^ed
state. The metamorphoses of insects are of two principal kinds, complete and
incomplete. In the complete fnetamorphosis the larva bears no resemblance to the
imago, and the insect, in the intermediate or pupa state, is motionless and takes no food.
Nomenclature. — The Head. — It often becomes necessary to refer to different
parts of an insect's head, and they are therefore designated by particular names
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE EAEM. 591
indicative of their situation. These are — ^the hind-head, ( Occiput); the crown, ( Ver-
tex); the fore-head, (i^'r-ows); the face, (i^acies); the cheeks, ( (rena). The appen-
dages of the head are the horns, (Antennce); the eyes, (OcuU); and the parts of
the mouth, (Trophi, or oral organs). All insects have two more or less elongated
and usually many jointed antennae situated one on each side of the head, and varying
greatly, in different kinds of insects, in length and in the form of their component
joints. Insects have very short antennae in their larval state, and in some perfect
insects, such as the water-beetles (^Gyrini and Hydrophili), the antennae are not
longer than the head, whilst in others, such as some of the longicorn beetles, they are
more than twice as long as the whole body, and in some of the small moths of the
genus Adela, they are five or six times as long. The uses of the antennae are not'
known ; they are supposed to be instrumental in the sense of hearing.
Variations. — The most common variations in the forms of the antennae are
expressed by the following terms: Filiform, or thread-like; long and slender, and of
the same or nearly the same width throughout. Setiform or setaceous; bristly or
bristle-like; long and slender, but tapering toward the tip. Moniliform, or bead-
like, when the joints are about the same size; and Serrate, or saw-toothed, when
each joint is somewhat triangular, and a little prominent and pointed on the inner
side. Pectinate, or comb-toothed, when the inner angles of the joints are consider-
ably prolonged. Bi-pectinate, or double comb-toothed; pectinate on both sides.
Olavate, or club-shaped; gradually enlarging towards the tip. Capitate, or knobbed,
when a few of the terminal joints are abruptly enlarged. Lamellate, when the joints
which compose the knob are prolonged on their inner side, in the form of plates.
The Thorax. — The thorax is the second, or middle, division of the bodies of
insects. Though apparently single, it is really composed of three pieces which seem
as though soldered together. These pieces are more distinct in some insects than in
others, but they can always be distinguished by impressed lines upon the surface
called sutures. The three pieces of the .thorax are distinguished as the fore thorax,
the middle thorax, and the hind thorax; or, in scientific language, the pro-thorax, the
meso-thorax, and the meta-thorax. In the Coleoptera the pro-thorax is very large,
and forms the large upper part or shield, to which we usually give the general name
of thorax. In this order of insects, the meta-thorax is invisible above, and the only
part of the meso-thorax seen from above is the triangular piece between the bases of
the elytra, called the scutellum. In many insects {Hymenoptera and Lepidoptera)
the pro-thorax is much reduced in size, and forms only a narrow rim, which is usually
called the collar. The under side of the thorax is called the sternum or breast plate.
Each of the three divisions of the thorax has its sternum, designated respectively as
the pro-, meso- and meta-sternum. In many insects, and especially the Coleoptera,
each section of the sternum is divided by sutures into a middle piece, sternum proper,
and a side piece, episternum.
The Wings. — The appendages of the thorax are the organs of motion, namely,
the wings and the legs. The great majority of insects have four wings. The anterior
592 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
pair are attached to the upper part of the meso-thorax, and the posterior pair to the
meta-thorax. The wings are thin, membranous, transparent organs, in some cases
folded when at rest, and supported by ribs or veins running across them. These
veins are found to correspond in their niimber and complexity to the rank of the insect
in the scale, and from the ease with which they can be seen, they furnish admirable
characters for the purpose of classification. In sOme insects, such as the grasshop-
pers, the fore-wings are thicker and less transparent than the hinder pair, and have
nearly the consistency of parchment; and in one large order of insects, the Coleop-
tera, or beetles, the fore-wings become converted into the hard opaque pieces known
as the elytra or wing-cases. The elytra take no part in the flight, but serve only to
cover and protect the hinder or true wings, which are folded under them when at rest.
In one large order, the insects have but two wings, and are named from this character
Diptera, or two-winged insects.
The Legs. — ^Insects have six legs, attached in pairs to the under side of each of the
three segments of the thorax. The leg consists of four principal parts, the hip (^coxa),
a short piece by which the leg is attached to the body ; then an elongated piece called
the thigh {femur, plural femora ) ; then another elongated piece called the shank
{tibia^-, and lastly the foot (or torsMs); which is composed of a number of smaller
pieces or joints ; of which five is the largest and most common number. The feet of in-
sects terminate almost invariably, in a pair of sharp, horny claws (ungues) ; and between
these, at their base, is often one or two little pads (plantulos) by means of which flies
and many other insects adhere to glass, or any other surface which is too smooth and
hard for the claws to catch upon. The Lepidoptera have but one plantula, and the
Diptera have two. Besides the parts of the legs here enumerated, there is a small
piece attached to the -hind part of the hip, called the trochanter. This is usually small
and inconspicuous, but in the hind legs of the ground-beetles ( CarabidcB) it forms a
large. egg-shaped appendage, one of the most characteristic features of this family.
The Abdomen. — The abdomen is the hindermost of the three divisions of an
insect's body. It is sometimes attached to the thorax by the whole width of its base,
in which case it is called sessile. But it is often attached by a slender petiole or foot-
stalk, when it is said to be petiolated. The abdomen is composed of a number of
rings, one behind another, each ring usually lapping a little upon the one following
it. The normal number of rings or segments of the abdomen is considered to be
nine, and this number is actually present in the earwig (Forficula) and a few other
insects; but in the great majority of insects, several of the terminal segments are
abortive, and only from five to seven can usually be counted. In the females of many
kinds of insects the abdomen terminates in a tubular, tail-like process, through which
the eggs arc conducted to their place of deposit, and which is therefore called the
ovipositor. In some insects the ovipositor is simple, short, straight and stiff, as in
some of the Capricorn beetles ; but in others, as the Ichneumon flies, it is long, slender
and flexible, and composed of three thread-like pieces, which when not in use, are
separated from each other, giving these insects the appearance of being three-tailed.
ENTOMOLOGY ON THE FAKM. 593
VIII. Division of Insects According to their Food.
In the classification of insects according to the nature of their food, all may be
divided into two classes — the carnivorous insects, or those which eat animal food
(Sarcophaga); and the herbivorous insects, or those which subsist upon vegetable
substances (Phyiophaga) . Eacb of these classes is again divisible accordingly as the
insects which compose it take their food in a fresh and living state, or in a state of
decay. The former are called predaceous insects (Adephaga) when they live upon
animal prey; and the latter are designated by the name of scavengers {Rypophaga).
Those insects which eat living animal food are still further divisible into predaceous
insects proper, which seize and devour their prey, and parasitic insects, which live
within the bodies of their victims and feed upon their substance. Those insects which
feed upon decaying animal matter present three divisions: First, general scavengers,
which devour particles of putrescent matter wherever they may be found; second,
those which live exclusively in or upon the bodies of dead animals (^Necrophaga) ;
and thirdly, those which are found exclusively in animal excrement {Qorpophaga).
Herbivorous Insects. — The herbivorous insects may be divided in a similar
manner into those which eat fresh vegetable food {Thalerophaga) and those which
subsist upon vegetable matters in a state of decay { Saprophaga') . They can also be
usefully classified according to the particular parts of the plant which they devour,
intQ lignivorous or wood-eating msect& (^Xylophaga') ; the folivorous, or leaf-eating
insects {Phyllophaga) , and the fructivorous, or fruit-eating insect {Carpophaga).
The above Greek terms in parenthesis have been used chiefly in connection with
insects of the Coleopterous order, in which these diversities of food habits exist to a
much greater extent than in any of the other orders, but the terms themselves are of
general signification, and being very concise and comprehensive, they might, not im-
properly, be used in speaking of insects in all the orders, so far as they are appli-
cable.
Changing with Age. — In attempting to classify insects according to the nature
of their food we meet with a peculiar difficulty, owing to the remarkable change
which some species undergo in this respect in passing from the larva to the perfect
state. Most caterpillars, for example, feed upon leaves, whilst the butterflies and
moths which they produce subsist upon the honey of flowers, or other liquid sub-
stances. Some two-winged flies {Asilidae) feed upon the roots of plants in their larval
state, but become eminently predaceous in their winged state. Another remarkable
example is furnished by certain coleopterous insects (Meloidoe), which are parasitic
in their larval state, but subsist upon foliage after they have assumed the beetle form.
The question, therefore, arises, to which stage of the insect's existence shall the
precedence be given in this respect? At first view it would seem that the perfect
state ought to govern, but when we take into account that insects are comparatively
short-lived in this state ; that having arrived at maturity they require but little food ;
and that some insects take no food whatever at this stage of their lives ; whereas all
38
594 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
the growth of an insect takes place whilst it is in the larval state, and consequently
it is in this state that they feed so voraciously; when we consider this, it seems more
reasonable that in classifying insects upon this basis, the food habits of the larva
should take the precedence.
IX. Noxious and Injurious Insects.
The terms noxious and injurious are often used indiscriminately, but strictly
speaking, noxious insects are those which are endowed with some poisonous or other-
wise hurtful quality ; and these are divisible into two classes according as they are
hurtful to mankind directly, such as the mosquito, flea, and bed-bug ; or are hurtful
to the domesticated animal, as the horse-fly, the bot-fly, and the various kinds of
animal lice. The insects which attack man directly are annoying rather than seriously
hurtful, and this is usually the case with those which molest the domesticated animals:
but these sometimes multiply so as to seriously impoverish the animals which they
infest.
The term injurious, as distinguished from noxious, is properly applied to all
those insects which damage mankind indirectly, but often to a most serious extent,
by depredating upon those crops, cultivated, upon which we depend for subsistence
and profit. It is worthy of remark that by far the greater proportion of the damage
caused by injurious insects is effected by species of very small size, whilst the large
species are generally harmless. The two most serious fruit insects, the codling-moth
and the plum-curculio, are both below the medium size, and the apple bark-louse, the
apple-aphis, the Hessian-fly and the wheat-midge, are so minute that they would not
be noticeable were it not for the wide destruction which they cause to some of our
most valuable crops, in consequence of their excessive multiplication.
CHAPTER II.
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL
PL.VNT-LICE. II. SCALE INSECTS III. PLANT-BUGS. IV. GENERAL MEANS FOR DESTROYING
BUGS. V. REMEDIES FOR CHINCH-BUGS.
I. Plant-Lice.
liSLANT-LICE are among the most injurious of any species, since they are found
on every variety of plants. The cut, Fig. 1, shows the plant-louse of the pear
tree magnified. In relation to the insects illustrated we, as heretofore, follow
the best authorities, condensing simply to get the gist of the matter, and such
only as will be of practical benefit to the farmer and horticulturist. .
The Aphides, or plant-lice, are exceedingly injurious, inserting their beaks into
the tender shoots and leaves of plants and then sucking out their sap. These insects
are generally of very small size, having antennas of five to seven joints, and a long
three-jointed beak, or proboscis, for puncturing plants, and then sucking
out the sap. Their bodies are soft, rounded or flask-shaped, and appar-
ently only consist of a skin filled with a liquid; their legs are long and
very slender, and many of them have two upright processes or tubercles
on the hinder part of the abdomen, from which a sweet gummy substance
is occasionally ejected, which is eagerly sought for by ants and other small
insects. The wings are generally transparent, and the upper pair are
much larger than the lower, and are furnished with strong nerves or veins,
which pass outward from the costal or cuter marginal vein ; these wings
are very much deflexed at the side of the body when the insect is at rest.
Early in the spring the eggs are hatched, and the young plant-lice puncture
the plant, suck the sap, and increase in size, the whole brood consisting
of individuals capable of reproducing their species without any connection with a
male by a species of gemmation or budding forth. These summer broods are wing-
less. The second generation and several others pursue the same course, being sexless,
or at least without the trace of a male among them, and so on indefinitely until the
autumn, when winged individuals are produced, which lay eggs for the spring brood
of sexual individuals. Bonnet obtained nine generations and Duval seven by this
process of gemmation in one season, and Packard states that Aphis dianthi, the
plant-louse of the pink, continued to propagate by gemmation without any males for
four years, in a constantly heated room. It has been supposed that the final autumnal
set of plant-lice were males and females alone, but Dr. Burnet states that on examin-
ing the internal organs of the winged individuals many of them wej:e not females
[595]
596
THE HOjME and FAEM MANUAL.
proper, but simply the ordinary gemmiferous or summer form. As there are peculiar
plant-lice infesting different plants, the number of species must necessarily be very
great.
Apple Plant Louse. — {^ Aphis mali). — The females deposit their eggs on twigs
and bark in the autumn ; the insect is hatched out the next spring, and feeds upon
the sap of the tree. The first broods are aU females, which in a short time, give
birth to living young by the process of gemmation. These also produce other young
ones, which are all females as long as the summer lasts, and it is only in the autumn
that males are produced, which uniting with the females, become the parents of the
eggs for the following spring brood, thus bearing living young all the summer, and
laying eggs in autumn while the parent insects die. These insects, as larva, pupa, and
perfect insect, are found generally on terminal shoots and on the under side of
leaves. The male is winged, has a blackish thorax, and is 0.05 to 0.08 inch in length
to the end of abdomen. The female (see Fig. 2, magnified) is green, with a row of
Fig. 2.— Magnified.
Apple Plant Liouse.
Fig. 3.— Magnified.
Grain Louse,
Fig. 4. — Magnified.
Cotton riant Louse.
black marks down each side, and has no wings, and is rather larger than the male.
These insects eject honey-dew from two projecting tubercles on each- side of the
hinder part of the abdomen, which is greedily eaten by ants and other small insects.
Grain or Oat Plant-Louse. — (Aphis avenm). — This does much injury to
grain, and especially to oats, but is also found on wheat, rye, and other cereals.
Their habits are much the same as other plant-lice, excepting that it is said that
although their honey-tubes are well developed, these insects emit no honey, and in
consequence, are not followed by ants. The feet and knees are generally of a darker
or nearly black color ; length 0.05 inch. (See Fig. 3 magnified).
Cotton Plant-Louse. (Aphis gossypii). — This is a great nuisance to the
planter, especially when the plants are very small. Sucking out the sap they distort
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL.
597
the steins, and frequently kill the plants before they have attained sufficient maturity
and strength to withstand their repeated attacks. Their habits are much the same as
the rest of the aphides, and their colors vary from green to a decided yellow, striped
with black on the upper side of the thorax.
Woolly Apple-Tree Blight. — {Eriosoma lanigera). — These destructive in-
sects are shown in Fig. 5, enlarged, and also the natural size on the portion of wood
shown. The eggs are deposited in crotches or cracks of the branches or bark, often
at or near the surface of the ground, or on new shoots springing from the parent
tree. As larva, pupa, or perfect insect they are equally injurious, sucking the sap,
and, when numerous, do much injury to the trees. These insects are 0.10 to 0.12
inch in length, and are gregarious, feeding in societies, which, when seen from a short
distance, resemble small bunches of cotton adhering to the trunk or branches of the
tree. The young are produced alive all summer, but in the fall the females lay eggs
which withstand the winter and hatch into young lice the following spring.
Boot-Lice. — There are various forms infesting the roots of plants and trees
south of forty degrees. Fig. 6 shows the natural size, and magnified, of plant
root-lice (IthozoMus), infesting verbenas. Those who grow flowers in-doors, would
do well to make an examination of drooping plants. We illustrate the general form
of root-lice, and their manner of work on the roots of many plants and trees.
Remedies. — The remedies for all the plant-lice is scrubbing or washing with a
strong solution of soap, dilute tobacco water, or
when on the bark of trees, with a moderate solu-
Fig. 5.
Woolly Louse.
tion of potash water. The remedy for root-lice,
shown at Fig. 6, is to wash the roots of the trees in j,i„ ^
a solution of potash and water, with scrubbing, if orange scaie insect.
the plants are infested with them, when received from the nursery. They do not
breed north of forty degrees.
II. Scale Insects.
There are many scale insects infesting the bark of trees, encased in a shell or
cover. Various plants^ as the apple, orange, etc., have their peculiar species. The
598
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
apple-tree in the North is often so affected with these bark-hce (scale insects), as
sometimes to kiU the trees. They are well known to most people who have badly-
tended orchards. They are only destroyed, when under their scales, by scraping
off. In the North, they transform in June, and move forward, when they may be
killed by spraying with emulsions of kerosene, as described presently.
Orange Scale Insects. — {Mussel Scale). — This insect infests the bark and
sometimes the leaves of the orange trees, and is especially destructive to the orange
groves of Florida. Fig. 7 shows the insect, male and female, and the scale magni-
fied, and also in natural size at the bottom of the upper scale ; also natural size of
scales as shown on the twig.
Itam
Fig. 8.
MYTILASPIS CITEICOLA.
The subject of orange scales has attracted so much attention that we have
reproduced elaborate delineations from a report to the government. The following
are the . explanations of the plate: Fig. 8 shows Mytilaspis Oitricola (Packard);
1, scales on orange, natural size; 1 a, scale of female, dorsal view; 1 h, scale of
female, with ventral scale and eggs; 1 c, scale of male, all enlarged. Fig. 9 shows
another species, Mytilaspis Oloveri (Packard); 2, scales on orange twig and leaf,
natural size; 2 a, scale of female, dorsal view; 2 b, scale of male; 2 c, scale of
female with ventral scale and eggs, all enlarged.
Remedies. — These we give as stated by Dr. Eiley in his report to the depart-
ment. Mr. H. G. Hubbard, the special agent conducting the experiments, recom-
mends an emulsion of kerosene (as the results of numerous experiments), consisting
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL. 599
of refined kerosene, 2 parts; fresh — or, preferably, sour — cow's milk, 1 part; or a
percentage of oil, 66 Y3. When cow's milk cannot be obtained, and it is often hard
to get in some parts of Florida, the following is recommended :
Kerosene, 8 pints = 64 per cent.
Condensed milk, Ij^ " > „„
-riT . o f- ^ 06 per cent.
Water, 3 '< 5 ^
It is prepared as follows by Mr. Hubbard: " Mix thoroughly the condensed milk and
water before adding the oil ; churn with the Aquapult puriip until the whole solidifies
and forms an ivory-white, glistening butter as thick as ordinary butter at a tempera-
ture of 75" F. If the temperature of the air falls below 70'', warm the diluted milk
to blood heat before adding the oil.
daixdd
Fig. 9.
MYTTLASPIS GLOVERI.
" In applications for scale insects the kerosene butter should be diluted with
water frOm 12 to 16 times, or 1 pint of butter to 1^ gallons (for chaff scale);
1 pint of butter to' 2 gallons (for long scale). The diluted wash resembles fresh
milk, and if allowed to stand, in two or three hours the emulsion rises, as a cream, to
the surface. The butter should therefore be diluted only as needed for immediate
use, and the mixture should be stirred from time to time.
'' A wash prepared in accordance with the above directions will kill with certainty
all the coccids and their eggs under scales with which it can be brought into direct
600 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
contact. No preparation known to me will, however, remove tHe scales themselves
from the tree, or in any way reveal to the unassisted eye the condition of the insects
within. This can be ascertained only by microscopic examination of detached scales.
Time alone, and the condition of the tree itself, will indicate the result of an applica-
tion. Kerosene, it is true, loosens the scales from the bark, so that for a time they
are readily brushed off, but they afterwards become more firmly adherent, and are
very gradually removed by the action of the weather.
" Upon trees thickly infested a large proportion of the scales are so completely
covered up by the overlapping of other scales, or the webbing together of leaves by
spiders and other insects, that the wash cannot be brought into direct contact with
them, and they are only reached, if at all, by the penetrating action of the oil. This
takes place gradually, and the number of bark-lice killed increases for some time
after an application, reaching the maximum in the case of kerosene about the fifth
day. In long scale the oil penetrates the outer end, killing first the eggs at the broad
and thin outer end, but its action is gradually exhausted and several pairs of eggs in
the middle of the scale are often left alive. It is, therefore, impossible, in a single
application, to destroy every scale upon an orange tree. This can, however, be
accomplished by making two or three applications at intervals of four or five weeks.
The mother insects being nearly or quite all killed by the first treatment, and the
surviving eggs having in the interval all hatched, a second application, if thorough,
will clear the tree.
" The great difficulty experienced in reaching every part of the tree renders it
absolutely necessary that any liquid used should be applied in fine spray and with
considerable force. An ordinary garden syringe does not accomplish this and can
never be used satisfactorily against scale insects.
"Although I have thought it advisable to recommend several applications, a
single very thorough spraying with a good force pump will, in most instances, prove
entirely effectual in clearing the tree, since, if only an occasional egg or coccid
escapes, the great army of parasites and enemies will be almost sure to complete the
work.
" As has been already said, diluted kerosene does no injury to young growth or
to the bark of the orange trees. It, however, causes the older leaves to drop, and
where the tree is badly infested with scale, or otherwise out of condition, the defolia-
tion is sometimes complete, especially if the wash is applied in the sun. The death
of moribund branches and twigs is also hastened. Beyond this the injury, if such it
be considered, is imperceptible, and dormant trees are invariably stimulated to push
out new growth in two or three weeks after treatment.
" Even in midwinter, if the weather is mild, sprouts will show themselves, and
this is perhaps the only objection to its use at this season, for it is clearly not desirable
to start fhe buds at a time when there is danger of frost. During the past winter
(1881-'82) I have experimented with many young trees, using emulsions containing
from forty to eighty per cent of kerosene, and in no case has any real injury resulted,
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL. 601
although some trees in very bad condition have lost a portion of their twigs and
smaller branches that had been long infested with scale and were in a dying condition.
In the spring, when the trees are in full growth and covered with tender sprouts, they
may be sprayed with the diluted emulsion recommended above, without danger of
checking their growth."
Other Preparations. — Mr. Mathew Cooke, Chief Executive Horticultural Officer
of California, under date Sacramento, June 1st, 1882, gives the following, in relation
to scale insects:
In regard to remedies, I have tried, and recommended others to try, various ex-
periments, and have been successful beyond doubt.
1 . Nursery trees dipped in a solution of one pound of American concentrated
lye to each one and a half gallons of water will be perfectly cleaned of A. perniciosus,
A. rapax, or any other of the Aspidiotus except A. conchiformis (Mytilaspis
pomorurn).
2. Nursery trees dipped in a solution as above, but one pound to each gallon of
water, ~will be perfectly cleared of A. conchiformis (M. pomorum).
3. The roots of nursery trees should be dipped in soap and sulphur (soap two
parts,. sulphur one part)", one pound to each gallon of water.
4. Fruit trees, apple, pear, quince, cherry, plum, etc., washed before the sap
begins to run or buds begin to swell with one pound of American concentrated lye to
each gallon of water, will be effectually cleaned of Aspidiotus and Lucanium Scale
insects.
5. Cherry and plum trees covered with Aspidiotus Scales and red spider were
washed, as an experiment, with two pounds of American concentrated lye to one
gallon of water. Insect life all destroyed, and trees bearing a large crop of fruit at
present.
III. Plant Bugs.
Plant bugs are, next to lice, the most destructive to vegetation of all the insect
tribes, being provided with a beak for sucking the juices of plants. They are mostly
active in all stages of their existence, from the young hatched from the egg to the
full-grown insect. Some of the bugs, as the bed-bug, for instance, never have wings;
none do in the pupa or nymph state. In the perfect state they acquire wings and fly
to scatter their species abroad . The following descriptions are after Mr. Townend
Glover, and here, we follow his classification, which is partially that of Amyot and
Serville, not a bad one for the unscientific reader, since it is formed wholly on cei-tain
marked peculiarities in the structure of the insect as visible to the naked eye. Those
we present are of two primary divisions, bugs frequenting the land (^Oeocorisce) , and
next those frequenting or living in water {Hydrorisce).
With Large Shield. — The first family of the land-bugs is- distinguished by the
great size of their scutel, or shield. These insects are generally of moderate or large
size, and have a long four-jointed beak, or piercer, with elongated five-jointed
antennas. Among these we frequently find several plant-bugs, which present the
(302
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
appearance of small beetles, as the scutel covers most of their back, and the wings
are almost entirely concealed by this covering as with a coat of mail.
A good example of this class is CorymeloBna, which is a small, almost
round, black bug, Fig. 1, is abundant on strawberries, raspberries, cher-
ries, and almost all other soft fruits. When they are numerous they
Fig. 1 cause the stems of young fruit trees to wither up and perish from their
coi>me-\ punctures. They are also said to injure grape vines,
laena. rpj^^ genus Tetyra is also distinguished by its very large scutellum,
which covers the whole of its abdomen, leaving only the side of the wing covers
exposed.
Tetyra BrpUNCTATA. — Fig. 2 is a medium-sized, or rather large bug, of a brown-
ish-gray color when dried, and is figured merely to show the size of the scutellum.
Fig. 2.
Tetyra Bipunctata.
Fip 3.
Cabbage-Bug.
Fig. 4.
Gray Ti'ee-Bug.
Fig. 5.
Green Tree-Bug.
Fig. 6.
Brownisb-Gray.
The foUpwing plant-bugs, with large scutella, may be classed as some of those
most destructive to the foliage and shoots of various plants and trees.
Harlequin Cabbage Bug. — Strachia (^Murgantia) histrionicha. Fig. 3, com-
monly known as the harlequin cabbage-biig, from its mottled, bright, and harlequin-
like colors of black, striped and variegated with bright red or orange, in all their
stages, from the egg up to the adult insect, are very destructive to the cabbage,
turnip, mustard and other cruciferous plants. The eggs we have are oblong and very
beautiful, being banded with dark-colored rings. These eggs are generally deposited
in bunches of ten or twelve on the under side of the leaves. Twelve to twenty-four
days after the deposition of the eggs, the perfect insect is developed, and there are
two broods or more annually in the extreme Southern States. They pass the winter
as perfect insects, under stones, moss, or bark. Nauseous washes, such as whale-
oil soap, even if they did drive away the insects for a time, would render the cabbage
Tinedible for mankind; and poisons such as Paris green, if taken by the insects, would
certainly be most dangerous to the consumers, even if washed off with half a dozen
waters. Insect powder will kill them. These insects are destroyed by Leptoglossus
phyllopus, figured at Xo. 12.
Gray Tree-Bug. — A large speckled gray tree-bug, resembling in color the bark
of a tree, Brochymena arborea. Fig. 4, is not uncommon on trees. It feeds on the
sap of ti-ees, and hibernates under bark and logs. A Southern species.
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL. 603
Green Tree-Bug. — Nezara hilaris (Rhaphigaster pennsylvanicus of Fitch)
Fig. 5, is a- large green tree-bug which feeds on the sap of trees. This insect is of a
somewhat flattened form, of a grass-green color, edged all round with a yellow line,
interrupted at each joint with a small black spot. Besides feeding on the sap of
forest-trees, it punctures the leaves of the grape-vine and hickory-trees.
AcANTHOSOMA Ne^ulosa. — Fig. 6 is a medium-sized brownish-gray plant-bug,
feeding on the sap of trees and plants.
EuscHisTUS (Pentatoma) Punctipes. — Fig. 7, is a middle-sized plant-bug, of a
brownish-gray color, common on thistles, mulleins, and other weeds, and lives on the
sap of plants. Many species of Pentatoma are insects of medium or large size,
found on shrubs or trees, and live generally on the sap ; but they are also somewhat
beneficial by transfixing caterpillars with their beaks to extract their juices, and
eventually killing them. Their eggs are usually of an oval form, and attached by a
glutinous substance at one end to leaves or branches, the other end being furnished
with a cap or cover, which the young larvas burst off when they hatch out.
Fig. 8. Fig. 9. Fig. 10.
Podisus Oynicus. Podisus Spinosus. Stiretrus Diaii
PoDisus Ctnicus. — Fig. 8, (^Arma grandis of Dallas), or the large tree-bug of
Fitch, is of a dull pale-yellowish or brownish color. It feeds on the sap of the apple,
oak, and other trees. The insect is somewhat the shape of a pumpkin-seed, and has
a conspicuous sharp spine projecting outward on each side of the thorax.
Podisus Spinosus. — ^Another smaller species, Podisus (Arma) spinosus, Fig. 9,
or the spined tree-bug, a brownish or grayish plant-bug, nearly the color of tree-bark,
injures leaves of apple and other trees by sucking out the sap ; but jt is very bene-
ficial to the farmer or gardener by destroying the Colorado potato-beetle. The spined
tree-bug is said also to destroy the American gooseberry saw-fly (^Printiphora gros-
sularice of Walker) and other insects.
Stiretrus Diana, (anckorago) Fab., Fig. 10, a beautifully marked plant-bug of
a purple black color, with red or orange ornamental marks on the thorax and scutel,
was found in Maryland busily employed in killing and sucking out the juices of the
larva of the squash-beetle (Upilachna borealis), and no doubt it destroys also any
other soft-bodied larva it can overcome, and should be protected.
Stiretrus FiMBRiATUS. — A near relative of the last insect, the ground colors of
which are orange or yellow, with black ornamentations. Fig. 11, is very rapacious
604
THE HOME A:xr) FAEM SIANUAL.
and carnivorous, as it feeds almost entirely on other insects, including the Colorado
potato beetle. It destroys caterpillars of the black asterias, swallow-tail
butterfly, which are so injurious to parsley, parsnips, celery, etc., in our
gardens, and probably also the social caterpillars in the web nets, which
disfigure our shade and fruit trees.
Greocorisse (land bugs). — The second family of the land bugs is that
of the Supei-icomes, so called because the antennae are inserted upon the
upper side of the head, above an ideal line drawn from the eyes to the origin
of the labrum.
Some of the insects of this family are beneficial to the farmer by destroying other
injurious insects, among which may be classed Leptoglossus phyllopus, (^Anisoscelis
albicinctus^. Fig. 12, a reddish-brown or blackish bug, with a distinct dirty-white or
yellowish band across its wing covers. It may easily be recognized by the singularly
broad, flattened, leaf-like projections on its hind shanks. When young, the insects
are of a brisht red color.
Fig. 12.
Leptoglossus.
Fig. 13.
Acantliocephala.
Fig. 1:;.
Acanthocephala.
AcAXTHOCEPHALA (Ehixtchts ajshd ^Metapoditjs, stn). — This genus is the largest
and most powerfully-developed of the Heteroptera in this country, and is generally
found in the Southern States. The insects frequent cotton fields, but have never
been detected in the act of piercing cotton bolls or of destroying other insects, so
far as we know.
Acaxthoceph-axa (:Metapodius) femorata. — ^Fig. 13, so called from its swollen
spiny thighs, is a large reddish-brown or blackish insect, quite abundant in the South-
ern cotton fields. It is very slow in its motions, and appears to be fond of basking
in the sun. The thighs are strongly developed and spiny, especially on the under
side, while the shanks have broad, thin, plate or leaf-like projections on their sides,
which give these insects a very peculiar appearance. The eggs are smooth, short,
oval, and have been found arranged in beads like a necklace, on the leaf of white
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL.
605
pine. The full-grown insect is stated to injure cherries in the Western States by
puncturing them with its beak and sucking out the juices ; thus proving it at least in
one instance to be a feeder on vegetable substances.
AcANTHOCEPHALA DECLivis. — Fig. 14 rcsembles
the previously named insect in general size and
form, but differs materially in the shape of the
thorax, which is much broader, and projecting out-
ward and forward. It also has strong, spiny hind
thighs and the peculiar flattened plate-like shanks.
, Fig 15.
Pacliilis Gigas.
Fig. 18.
Squash Bug.
The natural histpry and habits of these insects
has been very little studied; but, of all the speci-
mens taken in the Southern States, our authority
never yet took one in the act of killing other
insects.
Pachylis gigj^. — Fig. 15 is one of the largest, and most gaudily-colored hete-
ropterous insects found in this country, and as yot appears to be essentially southern
and rather scarce. Its markings are of a bright red orange on a black ground ; the
contrast between the two colors being very marked and distinct, rendering the insect
plainly visible at a great distance.
Altdus eurinus. — Fig. 16, a slender bug, with several sections of the upper part
of the abdomen of a bright red color when the wings are opened, occurs in late
suipmer and autumn, sometimes in great numbers, on golden rod and other herbaceous
plants, growing near the edges of woods, also on the Rhus glabra or smooth sunlach.
Fig. 17 is the female.
Squash Bug. — One of the most destructive plant bugs in this family is the squash
bug, Anasa tristis. Fig. 18, (^Coreus and Gonocerus tristis of some authors). The
eggs ai'e deposited in little patches, fastened with a gummy substance to the under
side of the leaves of squashes and other Cucurhitaceoe, in June and July, etc., until
late autumn. These eggs are not deposited all at one time on the plants, but in suc-
cessive broods during the whole season. The larvsB, pupae and perfect insects, all
being active, indiscriminately attack the leaves, and cause them to wither up by suck-
ing out the sap and apparently poisoning the foliage. They moult their skins several
606 - THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
times before attaining the winged or perfect state, and become more oval in form as
they grow older; and as there are successive broods during the whole summer, they,
do much injury to the squash and pumpkin vines. These insects sometimes collect in
masses around the stem near the earth, and injure the plant itself by extracting the
sap with their piercers. When handled or disturbed, they give out an odor some-
what similar to an over-ripe pear, but which is too powerful to be agreeable. The per-
fect insects, late in the autumn or when cold weather begins, leave the plants, and
hibernate, or pass the winter under bark of trees, in moss, or in crevices in stone
walls, and in old fences.
Rhopalus. — A small plant-bug, Mhopalus lateralis, Fig. 19, probably feeds on
the sap of plants, as Mr. Walsh states that an insect allied to this is one of the com-
monest bugs near Rock Island, Illinois, and ruins the buds of the pear-tree. The
antennae are clubbed at the end.
Neidbs (Berytus) spinosus. — Fig. 20 is a remarkably slender bug, with very
long, slim, hair-like legs and antennae, and is figured to show the singular form and
structure of the insect. Another species, JV. elegans of Europe, is taken about the
roots and young stems of the rest-harrow {Ononis arvensis), and with regard to its
Fig. 21. Fig. 22.
Lygseus. * Lygaeus.
habits Wedwood states that as the larvae and pupae were discovered in company with
the imago, it appears evident this was its food-plant.
Infericornes. — The third family are distinguished by the antennae being in-
serted below an ideal line drawn from the eyes to the origin of the labrum, or below the
middle of the side of the head. The third joint of the beak is longer than the fourth.
In the Lygoeides, the antennae are four-jointed; the terminal joint not being
thinner or forming a terminal club. They are generally rather small or of moderate
size, and several species are beautifully marked; being black, variegated with bright
crimson, red, orange or yellow. They are mostly found on plants.
Lyg^us turcicus. — Fig. 21 is common in Maryland, and is of a black color,
ornamented with bright red, and has been observed once or twice preying on the
small caterpillars feeding on the Asclepias, or milk-weed.
Another species, Lygoeus fasciatus, Fig 22, of an orange and black color, has
also been found in great abundance in Maryland on flowers of the Asclepias, in com-
I)any with caterpillars of Euchetes egle, a medium-sized moth, or miller, and it
probably feeds also upon them.
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL.
607
Pig. 23.
Lyga2us.
Fig. 24.
Ophthalmicus.
rig. 26.
Xysius.
Lygoeus bicrucis, Fig, 23, a plant-bug of a bright-red and black color, with
white edges on the elytra and thorax, was taken under bark in winter,
showing that this class of insects hibernates in the perfect state in sheltered
situations.
These three examples will suffice to show the general form of the
genus LygoBus in this country.
Ophthalmicus. — Fig. 24, is figured merely to show the singularly
broad head and projecting eyes of one genus of the Infericornes, and so different
from the rest. Most probably it is a plant-feeder. .
Nysius raphanus. — Fig. 25 is a small
plant-bug of a brownish color when dried,
injurious to radishes, mustard, grape,
cabbage, potatoes, and cruciferous plants.
There are two or three broods annually
in some of the States. The insect has a
very disagreeable smell, and sucks the
sap of plants, causing them to wilt. The
leaves attacked show little rusty circular specks, where the beak has been inserted,
which form little irregular holes that look more as if caused by a coleopterous insect,
the common flea-beetle.
Chincll-Bug. — The chinch-bug, Micropus {Rhyparochromus devastator,) {Micro-
pus) {Blissus) leuGopterus, Fig. 26 (enlarged and natural-size), is one of our most
destructive insects to wheat, corn, etc., in some of the Western States, and has done
considerable damage to the crops. The eggs, to the number of about 500, are laid
in the ground about June, on or among the roots of plants; and the young larvae,
which are of a bright-red color, are said to remain underground some time after they
are hatched, sucking the sap from the roots, and have been found in great abundance
at the depth of an inch or more. The full-grown insects measure about one-twelfth
of an inch in length, and are of a black color, with white wings, and may be known
by the white fore or upper wings, contrasting with a black spot in the' middle of the
edo-e of the wing.
Remedy. — The most feasible method for the destruction of the chinch-bug is
burning over the stubble and grass fields in the autumn and winter, and especially to
rake up the corn standing in the field, after husking, and burn them. An insect, the
false chinch-bug, much resembling the true, is said to kill it. Quails eat them; two
or three lace-wing flies are also said to destroy them.
Cecigense. — The fourth family are destitute of oceli, hence their name. They
frequent plants and shrubs.
Largus succinctus, Fig. 27, of a rusty-black color,, with the borders of the upper
wings edged with dull orange or yellow. We have found this insect hibernating under
moss, stones or bark, in mid-winter in Maryland, but have never yet caught it
in the act of injuring plants, although it probably is a vegetable-feeder.
608
THE H03IE AND FAKM MANUAL.
Fig. 27.
Largys.
Fig. 28.
Sed-Bug.
Another plant-bug of this family, Dysdercus {Pyrrhocoris') suturellus. Fig.
28, male and female, natural size and enlarged, with eggs, is the too well-known red-
bug, or cotton-stainer of Florida, which in
some seasons does so much injury to the
cotton fiber in the bolls of the plant, when
in the field, by sucking out the sap from
the boll and seed, and voiding an excre-
mentitious matter over the opened bolls,
which produces an indelible stain on the
fiber and renders it totally unfit for the
market. ,
Remedy. — These insects being in the habit of collecting together where there
were splinters or fragments of sugar-cane on the ground, advantage was taken of this
fact to draw them together by means of small chips of sugar-cane laid upon the earth
near the plants, where they were at once destroyed by means of boiling water. They
also collect around heaps of cotton-seed, where they may readily be destroyed at the
commencement of cold weather. Small heaps of refuse trash, dried corn-stalks, or
especially of crushed sugar-cane, may be made in various parts of the plantation in
the vicinity of the plants; under these the insects take shelter from the cold, and
when a sufficient quantity of the bugs are thus drawn together, the various heaps may
be fired, and the insects destroyed with the trash. A very cold morning, however,
should be selected, and the fire made before the insects have been thawed into life
and vigor by the heat of the sun; and especially all dead trees, rotten stumps, and
weeds in the vicinity of the field should be burned or otherwise destroyed, as they
afford a comfortable shelter for all sorts of noxious insects, in which they can pass
the winter in a semi-dormant condition.
Bicelluli. — The fifth family contains plant-bugs having two basal cells in the
membrane of the wing. The last joint of the antennae is very fine and setiform.
The group Oapsides contains insects of active habits. The
females have ovipositors nearly half the length of their bodies, some-
what saber-shaped, and received in a slit on the under side of the
abdomen. These small plant-bugs are very active, running and flying
with agility. They frequent plants, trees and fruits, upon the juices
of which they appear almost exclusively to subsist. Some of the
species are especially fond of fruit, such as raspberries, which they
suck with their rostrum, and impart a very nauseous taste to the
fruit.
An exception to their general plant-feeding habits, however, is
shown in one species, Campyloneura (Capsus) vitripennis, (Fig. 29)
or the glassy- winged soldier-bug of Riley, which is said to be beneficial
by destroying the leaf -hoppers of the vine-leaf, Erythroneura vitis, (incorrectly
called the thrips). The insect is of a pale greenish-yellow, the head and thorax are
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL. 609
tinged with pink, and the upper wings ai'e transparent, with a rose-colored cross.
It lives also on the wild chicken-grape, and attains its full growth in
August, and destroys small caterpillars by sucking their juices, according
to Professor Uhler. Most probably many other species of the Capsides,
hitherto considered as plant-feeders, also occasionally vary their diet by
sucking out the juices of other insects.
As the Capsides in general are very injurious to vegetables, as well as
numerous, we will give a few figures of them in order to give the student some general
idea of their size and form.
Eesthenia (Capsus) Confeaterna. — Fig. 30, is of a black color, with red thorax^
and is somewhat common on weeds and low herbage. It is very active,
either running swiftly away and hiding, or flying away when disturbed.
Calocoeis (Capsus) Bimaculatus, Fig. 31, is also a common insect
of a green and bi-own color, and is very common in Maryland on weeds.
Lygus Lineatus (Capsus and Phytocoris Quadrivittatus), Fig.
32, or the four-striped plant-bug, is a very common insect south, and is of
a green or yellowish color, with four black lines on its wing-covers.
Larvae, pupae, and perfect insects puncture leaves, abstract the sap, and
produce a blighted appearance of the foliage of currants, parsnips, pota-
toes, mint, weigelia, dentzia, &c. ; sometimes causing them to wither up entirely.
One of the most common small plant-bugs south is Lygus lineolaris ( Capsus
oblineatus, Say), Fig. 33, or little lined plant-bug of Harris. This insect
is of a black and brownish yellow color, and is very common on almost
all kinds of plants. It appears in April, but is more abundant during the
summer, when it injures plants by sucking their sap. The punctures
made by them appear to be poisonous to vegetation . This insect injures rig. 32.
pear-twigs, and the stalks of grape-vines, potatoes, strawberries, fruit t^^^*^
trees, such as quinces, &c., and is very fond of congregating on the
flowers of cabbage. It is stated to have injured the crops in Illinois very consider-
ably. Dr. Le Baron says that it destroys the Colorado potato-beetle, and the
" American Entomologist " reports it as destroying the eggs of other insects as an
offset to the great amount of damage it does to the crops. It has been found in the
perfect state in winter.
Ductirostri. — The sixth family contains plant-bugs, which, when at rest, have
their beaks, or piercers, in a groove, or duct, under the body.
The first group contains a singular, small, greenish insect, marked with brown,
Phymata (Syriis) erosa, Fig. 34, having raptorial, crooked, sickle-shaped fore feet,
with which it catches and holds its prey while it leisurely sucks out the juices. This
insect stings severely: it lies in wait in flowers or among leaves, where hidden from
observation by the similiarity of its color to the places it frequents, it seizes any
unfortunate insects that may happen to alight near its hiding-place. One of these
insects was taken in the very act of sucking out the juices of a small blue butterfly ;
39
610
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
the bug itself being completely concealed among the petals of a rose, the butterfly
only appearing in sight, which was seized as a specimen and drawn out, with the bug
still chnging to it. Many other bugs of the same species were afterwards observed
lying in wait in various flowers for any roving insects that might be attracted to
them. It is said to prey on small bees and wasps, and also is beneficial by destroying
plant-lice, or Aphides.
The group Tingides are small, flattened, singularly-formed insects, living on
various plants and trees.
A good example of this group is Tingis juglandis, an insect found abundantly
on the butternut, birch and willow, where it pierces the lea>res and sucks the sap.
This insect resembles a flake of white froth ; its whole upper surface being composed
of a net-work of small cells, with an inflated egg-shaped protuberance like a small
bladder on the top of the head and thorax. The wing-covers are square, with
rounded corners.
Fig. 33.
Lygus.
Fig. 34.
Pliymata.
Fig. 35.
Tiugis.
TiNGis AucDATUS. — ^Fig. 35, is distinguished by the arcuated edge of the hemely-
tra, or wing«-covers, with brown bands. They live on the sap of plants and trees,
and one species closely related to it was found on the quince-bushes in Mississippi
and Florida, where the bushes were literally swarming with them, in all stages of
larvae, pupae, and perfect insects, and some of the trees were very much injured,
if not totally destroyed by them. They were also very troublesome to mankind
by their stinging propensities.
Aeadus Americanus. — Fig. 36, a small, flat, brown or blackish bug, is very
common under bark of trees.
The Bed-Bug. — Acanthia lectularia (Cimex lectularius) , Fig. 37. The eggs
are white, oval, slightly narrowed at one end, and terminated by a cap, which breaks
off when the young escape. The young ones at first are Very
small, white and transparent. It takes eleven weeks before they
attain their full growth, and they are said to cast their skins several
times before attaining maturity. It is probable, however, that the
temperature and food have much influence in accelerating or delay-
ing their final change into the full-grown imago, or perfect insect.
The insects are gregarious in habits, and herd together in cracks and chinks, in
Fig. 37.
Bed-Bug.
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL.
611
corners of bedsteads, etc. Prof essor Verrill states they return constantly to the same
Jbiding-places morning after morning, like birds returning to their roosts. These
insects are very tenacious of life, and have been kept in hermetically-sealed glass
bottles for more than a year without food, and were yet lively, and had a good
appetite.
The Seventll Family. — (Ifudirostri), contains bugs having the beak or piercer
naked or free, entirely disengaged, and not in any duct, as in the last family. The
habits of most of them are raptorial, preying upon other insects, and as such they
are generally beneficial to the farmer.
Pirates Biguttatus. — Fig. 38, sometimes called the spotted corsair, is a large,
.slowly-moving bug of a blackish color, with legs,- antennae, and markings on wing-
covers of a dull orange color, with two spots on the wing-covers, and
is said to be carnivorous, destroying other insects, and probably
destroys bed-bugs also, as one was found between
the mattresses of a bug-infested bed, and the
insect itself is closely allied to Reduvius person-
atus, mentioned below, which is known to feed
upon bed-bugs.
Eeduvius Pbrsonatus. — Fig. 39, is a brown
ish bug, not rare in Europe in houses, where it is
generally found dead and hanging in spiders'
webs. Burmeister says that the spiders do not
seize it, as its puncture is very poisonous, but let
it encumber their webs until it dies of hunger.
The insect is stated to exhale a disagreeable odor, something like that of mice. It
hibernates without taking any food, when its body becomes meager and flat; but on
the return of fine weather, it recovers from its lethargy, and commences to hunt for
such insects as form its prej^ The larvse and pupse cover themselves with a mask or
coating of dust and dirt even to the legs and antennae, and so disguise themselves as
.scarcely to be distinguished from the places they frequent, and prey upon the common
bed-bugs.
Melanolestes (Pirates) Picipes. — Fig. 40, a medium-sized black bug, is said by
Walsh to be found underground, where no doubt it feeds on subterranean insects.
In Maryland it is found under stones, moss, logs of wood, etc., and is capable of
inflicting a severe wound with its rostrum, or piercer. It feeds on other insects, and
is slow and deliberate in its motions. M. abdominalis is distinguished by its red
abdomen, which generally shows on each side of the wing-covers.
Apiomerus (Reduvius) Spissipes. — Fig. 41, a carnivorous plant-bug of a brown
color, with light-yellowish markings, is known as a destroyer of insects, and has also
been reported to the Department as killing honey-bees. These insects when in their
search for prey are very slow and cautious in their movements, as if they were aware
1;hat any rapid or sudden motion would frighten their victim away.
Fig. 3S.
Spotted Corsair.
612
THE HQME AND FARM MANUAL.
jMilyas (Haepactor) Cinctus. — Figr-42, is a medium-sized raptorial bug, with
a spine on each side of its thorax, and is of a yellowish-brown color, with mottled
or banded legs. It feeds upon all insects it can overcome, and is therefore very
useful as an insect-destroyer. It has been reported as destroying the Colorado potato
beetle, and also the small caterpillars of the apple-worm, or Tortrix.
rig. «.
Fig. 41.
Fig. 42.
Fig. 43.
Fig. 44.
Blanolestes.
Apiomerus.
Milyas.
Sinea.
Eetrichodia.
SiNEA MuLTisPiNOSA. — Fig. 43, SO named from its prickly or spiny appearance,
somewhat resembles the last-named insect in general appearance aiTd habits. It is of
a brownish color, and wanders about on plants and shrubs, seeking what insects it can
overcome, and has also been reported as killing the larvae of
the above-mentioned Colorado potato-beetle. It also is very
useful by destroying the Aphides, or plant-lice, and other
insects.
EcTRiCHODiA Cruciata. — Fig. 44, a carnivorous plant-bug,
of a black and scarlet or orange color, has the same habits and
propensities as the Reduvius. It kills all the insects it meets in
its wanderings, and sucks out their Juices.
Hammatoceeus (Nabis) Furcis. — ^Fig. 45, is a very large
and powerful predatory plant-bug, of a black and orange or
yellowish-red, with the upper part of the wing-covers of a yellow
color. It has much the same habits as the nine-pronged wheel-
bug, Prionotus cristatus.
Blood-Sucking Cone-Nose. — Conorhinus (^Sanguisuga) variegatus. Fig. 46.
This insect insinuates itself into beds in the Middle and Southern States, and sucks the
blood of mankind, causing great pain and inflammation. It hibernates in the pupa
and perfect state, and is stated to feed not only on human blood, but also the insect
that causes the blood to flow, namely, the common bed-bug (^Acanthia lectularia).
From its blood-sucking propensities, there is very little doubt but what it also destroys
insects.
EvAGORUS EuBiDUS. — A much slighter-formed raptorial plant-bug, with longer
and slimmer legs, and also of a black and red or orange color, called Evagorus rubi-
dus, Fig. 47, preys upon other insects, and was found to be very useful in destroying
the myriads of plant-lice upon the orange trees near Palatka, Florida.
Fig. 45.
Hammatoccrus .
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL.
613
DiPLODUs LUKiDUS (EvAGORUS viRiDis). — Fig. 48 IS a slender insect, somewhat
related to the last-mentioned species, the larva of which is very common on fruit
trees. It is said to be wingless, and covel'ed with a glutinous substance, to which
little pieces of dust and dirt are commonly seen to adhere. The perfect insect is
winged, and said to destroy the plum-curculio ( Gonotrachelus nenuphar).
rig. 47.
Evagoi'us.
Fig. 48.
Diplodus.
Ploiaria Vagabunda. — Fig. 49 is a very slender plant-bug. It has very short
anterior legs, or rather arms, while the two posterior pairs are very long. When
walking, it moves very slowly, with its fore-legs (which are perhaps useful in climb-
ing or to seize its prey) applied to its body, while the antennae being bent at the
extremity, which is rather thick, are made to rest upon the surface on which the
insect moves, and to supply the place of fore-legs. The insect is found on trees;
it vacillates or trembles, and balances itself continually like a Tipula, or long-legged
crane-fly. Dr. Geer says it is found in houses, and walks slowly but flies easily and
quickly. Burmeister says that the larva covers itself with dust and lives on prey.
In England the insect lives in thatch.
Fig. 50.
JSmesa.
Emesa Longipbs (Brevipennis of Say). — Fig. 50 is an exceedingly thin and
slender carnivorous plant-bug. These insects feed on other insects, and resemble the
thinnest bits of sticks fastened together. The antennae are long and delicate. The
614 THE HOJIE AXD FARM MANUAL.
fore-legs are raptorial, with long, thin coxre, admirably adapted for seizing and
holding their prey, which consists of other insects. The body is long and thin; the
wings are either wanting (in some species) or reach only to near the middle of the
abdomen.
Heteroptera. — This contains the eighth family of the insects that row on the
surface of the water, hence the name ^Zo^eres, or rowers; their four hind feet being
formed for gliding on the surface of the water, and are sometimes erroneously called
in Maryland water-boatmen (see N'otonecta). These insects are very active, and skim
the surface of the water with great velocity. When gliding over streams and ponds,
their hind feet act conjointly as a rudder, and the longer middle feet are used some-
what as oars, not dipped into, but merely brushing over, the surface.
The insect of Gerris conformis. Fig. 51, was taken in Maryland on the surface
of slowly-running water in the act of devouring a dead fly, which was floating on the
surface .
Gerris lacustris. — ^Fig. 52 is a smaller species, also common in Maryland on
the surface of water, and also feeds on other insects.
The second section of the sub-order Heteroptera, Aydrocorisce, contains only
three families, viz: Family 1, (or 9,) Bigemmi, bugs having two ocelli; family 2,
(or 10), Pedirapti, water-bugs, having raptorial fore-legs for seizing and holding
their prey, and family 3, (or 11), Dediremi, water-bugs having their posterior tarsi
generally like oars, and formed for swimming and diving; the anterior feet are not
raptorial.
Gai,gxjT.us Oculatus. — ^Fig. 53 is a representative of the group Galgulides.
These insects have broad h^ads, with
peduncled eyes; their antennae are
four-jointed, but concealed beneath the
eyes; the ocelli are present; the body
is short, broad and flattened, and the
Fig- 52. Fig. 53. rig. 54. jggs are formed for running. These
Gerris. Gaiguius. Xaueoris. jugects, at the first glancB, resemble
miniature toads. They are probably predatory in habit, preying on other insects,
and appear to form a link between the aquatic and terrestrial species.
Naucoris Poeyi. — Fig. 54 is a rather small, }'ellowish-brown water-bug, with
two raptorial fore-feet and four hind-feet, which the insect uses for walking in the
water and running, although they are not ciliated. These insects frequently leave
the water during the night to scour round the country. The eggs are said to be glued
to the blades of leaves or water-plants in April, and the bugs feed on all the insects
they can capture when in the water.
Nepa apiculata. — The water scorpion. Fig. 55, is a good example of the group.
It feeds upon other insects, and also most probably on small fishes. Kirby and Spence
state that a Nepa, put into a basin of water with several young tadpoles, killed
them all without attempting to eat them. It is therefore very evident that they
INSECTS, INJURIOUS AND BENEFICIAL.
615
Fig. 55.
Water Scorpion.
will destroy young fish, and should be extirpated in or near any fish-breeding
establishment.
Eanatka quadridenticulata. — A sing-
ularly-formed, large, brownish-gray water
bug of the family Pedirapti, is ' Ranatra
quadridenticulata. Fig. 56. The body is of
an elongated form, with a double tube at the
end for respiration ; the eyes are prominent;
the. two fore legs are raptorial; the four
other legs are long and slender, and the pro-
thorax is greatly elongated. These insects,
living in the water, are compelled to come
to , the surface for air, which they obtain
with the assistance of the before-mentioned
two appendages placed at the end of the
anus. They are very voracious, feeding on other insects,
aquatic larvae and small fish. They fly from pond to pond
in the evening or at night, especially when the waters begin .
to dry up. These insects are mostly found at the bottom
of stagnant water, as they swim badly. Westwood mentions Fig. 56.
a European species which is said to carry, attached to their Eanata Quadridenticulata.
feet, very small grains of a lively red color, which are surmised to be the eggs
of an aquatic mite.
IV. General Means for Destroying: Bugs.
In the foregoing we have figured principally the rapacious or insect-killing plant-
bugs, and this as object lessons so they may not be destroyed. It is of really more
consequence that we preserve predatory insects, as we should insect-eating birds, than
that we kill injurious ones. Certainly insects should not be destroyed indiscriminately.
For the plant-eating bugs there has been found only one successful remedy, except
hand picking for the larger species — that is, a solution of Paris green or London
purple in water. This, however must not be used on vegetables that are to be eaten.
For the smaller species, and the minute fleas and beetles that prey on vegetation,
soot, sulphur, powdered charcoal, etc., are recommended. They are, however, the
most difficult to exterminate of almost any of the destructive vegetable-eating insects.
So far as all that class of mites and scale insects that infest green-houses are con-
cerned, scrubbing, and the use of emulsions will be indicated for scale. For lice and
other mites, fumigation with tobacco, burning sulphur, etc., will be proper. For
window plants the kitchen sink will be available for washing, and the little net figured
in PartVIII, Chapter II, relating to the parlor and library, Section XIII, will be
found useful. Out of doors in the field these pests are not so easy to manage, so
far as plant-bugs are concerned.
616
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
V. Remedies for Chinch-Bug's.
EoLLiNG the ground, although it will kill many, is not a perfect remedy, for the
reason that the inequalities of the/surface prevents their being all crushed. The only
practical remedy yet found is burning the stubble and dead grass late in autumn and
early winter, and especially fence corners and rubbish piles, where they congregate to
winter ; also all dry corn stub-
ble, as heretofore indicated.
When the insects are migrating
a trench plowed round the field
and deepened with a winged
shovel plow, leaving the sides
dusty, will prevent their migra-
tions. A log drawn back and
forth in the trench, or better, a
smooth implement, heavy, like that shown in the cut, will crush and kill them. It
has been recommended to make the implement of sheet-iron, with chimney and fire-
place. This might be useful to keep the trench dry after rains, but would »hardly
keep enough heat to kill the chinch-bugs. Resort must be had to pressure. The
same rules which apply to chinch-bugs will apply with still greater force to the
destruction of the army-worm. Sowing Hungarian-grass is said to have protected
from the ravages of the chinch-bug, the insects preferring the tender grass to the
older grain.
DEVICE FOE KILLING CHINCH-BTJGS, DESTROYING
AEMY- WORMS, ETC.
CHAPTEK III.
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN.
INSECTS THAT PEEY UPON GEASS. II. INSECTS INJURING CLOVER. III. CLOVEELEAr BEETLE.
IV. THE AKMY WOEM. ^V. VAGABOND OEUMBUS. VI. INSECTS INJURING GRAIN. VII. THE
SORGHUM WEB-WORM. ^VIU. SUGAR CANE BEETLE IX. THE SMALLER CORN-STALK BORER.
X. THE RICE-STALK BORER. XL GRASS-WORM OF THE SOUTH. XII. CORN BILL BUG.
XIII. THE CORN OR COTTON-BOLL WORM. XIV. REMEDY FOR THE COTTON-WORM, SOUTH. XV.
POISONS FOB-WORMS. XVL THE HATEFUL GRASSHOPPER OR LOCUST. XVII. REMEDIES AGAINST
THE GRASSHOPPER.
I. Insects that Prey upon Grass,
IhE insects most injurious to grass are those which destroy the root. Of these
the white grub, which is the larva of the May beetle, is the worst. Next in
destructiveness come those boring into the stalk, of which the clover-stem borer
will illustrate the type, and those which, like the army-worm, feed on rye. The
chinch-bug, already figured and noticed, and whose depredations are principally on
• grain, is, also, exceedingly destructive in some seasons. The Hessian fly is another
insect which eats the young plant down into the roots. The means of destroying
these last is by burning the stubble where they hibernate. None of this class of in-
sects like wet ground, hence the dryest parts of a field are attacked first. The Hessian
fly is a minute, two-winged insect, and two-brooded; it is well known to every farmer.
Insects attacking grass, feed also, as a rule, on grain. We figure some of the newer
pests first, and then proceed to those attacking grain.
II. Insects Injuring Clover.
Clover-Stem Borer (Langueia Moezakdi). — This insect has been known only
during the last four years. Whtere abundant, the stalks of red clover show small dis-
colored spots. If these are cut into, a grub one-sixteenth of an inch, or, if full-
grown, n«arly one-third of an inch will be found. The stems attacked are gradually
weakened, and often fall ; thus seriously injuring the crop
The Remedy. — The apparent remedy for this pest is to cut the clover early and
again late. Waste clover remaining in the field will afford protection Hence, when
the borer is found, destroy all clover which cannot be cut or kept close pastured.
This insect has two parasites: A small black chalcid, and an ichneumon fly. The cut
of Clover-Stem Borer shows, at the top, section of stalk with j^oung larvae; to the
right, the grub or larva; next, the pupa ; then the eggs, and to the left, the beetle;
all enlarged. The hair-lines show natural length, and the small ovals the real size of
the eggs.
[fil7J
618
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Clover-Root Borer. (Hylesinus teifolii). — This insect seems first to have
been noticed in New York, about 1878. It hibernates in all of the three stages,
though, in the autumn, the beetles greatly predominate. In the spring, these beetles
issue from the ground and pair. The female de-
posits her eggs, from four to six in number, in a
cavity at the crown of the roots. The young hatch
in about a week, feed their way into the plant, and
Jt
CLOVER- STEM BORER.
CLOVER-ROOT BORER.
channel both root and stalk, as shown in the cut of
Clover-Root Borer. It will be seen that if this insect
should become common ( we do not know that it has
yet appeared in the West) it must prove destructive.
The cut explains itself; a, the work of the insect ; b, larva; c, pupa, and d,
perfect beetle enlarged.
The Remedy. — No perfect means have yet been found. One which naturally
suggests itself would be to plow infested clover under after the eggs are laid. It is to
be hoped that parasites will appear to keep this insect in check, since it will be diffi-
cult to manage it either by picking or poisoning. A telephorid larva has been found
preying on it.
Clover Leaf Midge. — ( Cecidomia trifolii) — This is a minute insect lately
found attacking the leaves of white clover. A
similar, if not identical insect has long been
known in Europe. The size of the insect (fly)
is shown by the minute figure under the larvae.
Its length is only .059 of an inch. The young
fold the leaflets together, and fasten them on
the midrib, by delicate threads of silk; here
galls are formed. There is no well defined rem-
edy for this insect.
If found and examined under a powerful
lens its several stages will be seen as shown in the accompanying cut.
CLOVER LEAP MIDGE.
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN. 619
III. Clover Leaf Beetle.
The technical name is Phytonomus punciatus. This insect feeds, both in the
larval and beetle state, on clover and alfalfa. There are many of this genus preying
on a variety of plants. The pest we describe feeds on clover generally, including
the white. Near Barrington, N. Y., last year, it was so destructive, that it was
reported scarcely a plant could be found not infested with it. It has not yet made
its way West. It is to be hoped it will not. The cut of Clover Leaf Beetle shows
the insect in its various stages. These include back and side views of the beetle, the
hair-lines showing the natural size. [See cut page 6 21. J
Remedies. — We quote, in relation to remedies, from the last report of Dr.
Eiley, Entomologist to the U. S. Department of Agriculture. He says : " Our
experience and observations during the winter show that this Phytonomus hibei-nates
principally in the young larval state, and that any mode of winter warfare that would
crush or burn these larvae hibernating in the old stalks would materially reduce the
depredations of the species the ensuing summer. Clover stubble is, however, not so
easily burned in winter, and whether rolling could be advantageously employed will
depend very much on the smoothness of the field and other conditions.
The extreme timidity of the larva as well as of the beetle, and the protected
position of the insect in all stages, render the application of pyrethrum, or any other
remedy acting upon contact, entirely useless. To poison the clover with London
purple or Paris green would no doubt be effective, but can be safely applied only
wherever the clover is not used for fodder.
Should the Phytonomus be very bad in a field, it would be well to plow the
clover under rather than to allow such field to become a source of contagion. This
should be done in the month of May, when the insect is mostly in the larval state,
and when all eggs from the beetles that hibernated have been hatched. To plow the
field when the Phytonomus is in the imago state would have no other effect than to
disperse the beetles over other fields.
Natural Enemies. — Of the various species of Ichneumon flies known in Europe
to prey upon the larvae of Phytonomus, none have been observed so far in this
country, and to this immunity from the most efiicient natural checks the undue multi-
plication of the species is no doubt to be attributed. Of other insect enemies only
one has been actually observed so far, viz., the larva of a small beetle, Collops quad-
rimaculatus, which was found feeding upon the eggs sent from Barrington in January.
Mr. Schwarz found three dead larvae on the plants, and from the manner in which
they were killed he thinks that they were sucked out by soldier-bugs, several species
of which were seen in the fields, but none in the act of sucking Phytonomous larvae.
Several ground-beetles {Harpalus pleuriticus, H. pennsylvanicus) , a Pterostichus
larva, and numerous specimens of a large red mite (genus Trombidium) are found
under the infested plants, and these probably prey upon the Phytonomus in its earlier
stages, but no proof thereof can be given at present. Ants do not seem to trouble
620
THE H03IE AND FAKM MANUAL.
the larvae, as on several occasions specimens of the latter were found in the middle of
the ants, which build their colonies under small stones and sticks in the field. This
species is in all probability extensively fed upon by tiger-beetles ( Cicindelidae)
which, both in the larval and beetle states, doubtless attack and devour the Phytono-
mus larvae, whether when they feed or crawl over the ground, or in the ground to
pupate ; for we found, during August, on Mr. Snook's farm, that the ground in the
infested clover-fields was in many places literally riddled with holes of larvse of Cicin-
dela repanda, most of them apparently nearly full-grown, and many just having
changed to the perfect beetle.
IV. The Army Worm.
Besides the insects already mentioned, there are few committing serious depreda-
tions. The army-worm deserves particular notice. It is a universal feeder, and a
species quite similar is as destructive to cotton in the South as is the
army -worm to grain in the North. There are many so-called army
worms. In fact, some persons call every smooth caterpillar found in
grain or grass, the army-worm. The true species which multiplies in
such amazing numbers as sometimes to utterly devastate a country, is
the Leucania Unipuncta, of Haworth. The illustration will enable it to
be easily recognized. The favorite place
for depositing the eggs is along the inner
base of the terminal blades of grass or
grain, and preferably, in the rankest tufts
of the grass or grain. The moth remains
concealed by day and flies at night, de-
positing her eggs in the early part of the
evening; as many as seven hundred or
more being laid by a single female.
The worm life may be stated at from
twenty days in the South to about four
weeks in the far North. The now well
established fact that the insect hibernates
in the larval or worm state, renders their destruction comparatively easy
by burning, in the autumn or early winter, all infested stubble. Wet
winters are also unfavorable to their well being. Army-worm years
always follow dry seasons, though the season that finds them in great
numbers may not be a dry one.
The marching of the worms is in search of food, and not a normal
habit. Their instinct of concealment is so strong that a person may pass
daily over an infested field and suspect their presence only by a greater
or less number of bare patches.
Remedies. — We have already stated that the burning of stubble and trash where
Army Worm, Moth, Pupa and. Eggs.
Ai-my-Woiin
Lai'va.
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN.
621
the insects hibernate is the most effective means of destroying the army-worm. The
worms may be prevented, as a general thing, from passing from one field to another
by judicious ditching. It is important, however, that the ditch should be made so
that the side toward the field to be protected be dug under. About every three or
four rods a deep hole in the ditch should be made, in which the worms will collect, so
that they can be killed by covering them with earth and pressing it down. They
may also be destroyed by burning straw over them — ^the fire not only killing the
worms but rendering the ditch friable and more efficient in preventing their ascent.
Coal-oil has been used to good advantage, and the worms have a great antipathy to
pass a streak of it.
CLOVER LEAF BEETLE.
Many correspondents successfully headed them off by a plowed furrow six or
eight inches deep, and kept friable by dragging brush in it. Along the ditch or
furrow on the side of the field to be protected, a space of from three to five feet
might be thoroughly dusted (when the dew is on) with a mixture of Paris green and
plaster, or flour, so that every worm which succeeds in crossing the ditch will be
killed by feeding upon plants so treated. This mixture should be in the proportion
of one part of pure Paris green to twenty-five or thirty parts of the other materials
named. If used in liquid form, one tablespoonful of Paris green to a bucket of
water, kept well stirred, will answer the same purpose, as also will London purple,
which has the merit of being cheaper. These substances should, of course, be only
used where there is no danger of poisoning stock, poultry, or other animals. Logs
622
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
or fences over running streams or irrigation ditches, should be removed, otherwise
the vrorms will cross on them.
Lumber may be used to advantage as a substitute for the ditch or trench by being
secured on edge and then smeared with kerosene or coal tar ( the latter being more
particularly useful) along the upper edge. By means of laths and a few nails the
boards may be so secured that they will slightly slope away from the field to be pro-
tected. Such a barrier will prove effectual where the worms are not too persistent or.
numerous. When they are excessively abundant they will need to be watched and
occasionally dosed with kerosene to prevent their piling up even with the top of the
board and thus bridging the barrier.
Where the crop of a field has been completely destroyed by the worms, the plan
of killing them by heavy rollers has been tried. This, however, is an expensive
remedy, and is not as satisfactory as might be supposed. Experiments have proved
LAMP FOR KILLING NIGHT-
FLYING MOTHS.
THE VAGABOND ORAMBUS.
that even where the ground was level, the rollers soon became irregularly covered
with mud composed of earth and of the juices of the crushed worms, so that the
effect was much the same as if the ground had been uneven, and many worms
escaped in consequence.
A means for killing all night-flying moths, which we, years ago, practiced most
successfully, when largely engaged in gardening, is shown in the cut of Lamp for
KilHng Night-Flying Moths. It is simply a light placed over a large pan of water,
upon which floats a little kerosene oil. The insects, attracted by the light, fly
through it, drop into the oil, and die. Fires kept burning in fields up to ten o'clock
at night would serve the same purpose, and each female destroyed means the destruc-
tion of hundreds of eggs.
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN.
()23
V. Vagabond Crambus.
This is an insect ( Crambus vulgivagellus) that has but lately attracted attention
in the State of New York. It was first found by Prof. Lintner, in 1881, in Jefferson
county. The people supposed it to be the arrny worm. We figure it so that it may
easily be known if it appears in the West. The cut shows all stages of the insect,
with eggs enlarged at g. In the State of New York, some pasture-lots were almost
entirely ruined, a dozen or more worms being found in a space as large as a man's
hand. Indeed, the moths would rise up before the feet in a cloud, and a field be
laid waste and turn brown in two weeks.
The Remedy. — They hibernate in the larval state, and, as full grown larvse,
do much damage the next spring. Burn over the fields infested in late autumn and
winter.
WHEAT ISOSOMA. (ISOSOMA TRITICA.)
VI. , Insects Injuring Grain.
This class of minute insects, of the order Homoptera, injure
Leaf-Hoppers.
plants by punctures. We figure one which is destructive to grain by puncturing the
bases of the leaves of winter wheat, causing the plants to turn yellow
and die. Sometime they appear in immense numbers. They are active,
jumping, of brownish color. The whole order is destructive to plants
of various kinds, many species having their relative insects.
Remedies. — The general remedy is dusting with sulphur, soot, dust
and similar articles. The cut shows the destructive Wheat Leaf -hopper
( Oicadula exiliosa) . Bonfires attract this insect at night. See lantern
shown in Section IV.
The Wheat Isosoma. — This minute insect does immense damage
because it is generally overlooked. It is comparatively new, and is
allied to the joint-worm. There are a number of species depredating on grain and
grass. The species we figure is new to science, having been first described in March,
1882. So far as discovered there is but one annual brood; this hibernates in the
larval and pupal state in stubble and straw.
Wheat
Leat-liopper.
624
THE HOaiE AND FARM MANUAL.
The Eemedt. — The readiest remedy is to mow the weeds in the autumu, on
wheat stubble infested, and burn with the stubble before winter. This plan is prov-
ing destructive in some of the Eastern American States.
VII. Sorghuin Web-Worm.
A NEW species of web-worm, infesting the heads of sorghum, and probably its
congeners, broom-corn, etc., has been discovered. It is a lepidopterous insect of the
family Bombycidse, named Nola sorghiella.
It was first found on soi'ghum vulgare,
(rice corn, pampas rice, etc.,) in Kansas,
and in immense numbers. We have repro-
duced figures of the insect in its several
forms, together with enlarged drawings of
the several parts. These insects confine
THE SMALLEE CORN-STALK BOEER.
SORGHUM WEB -WORM.
/, moth, natural size.
their depredations entirely to the heads of
the plants, sometimes entirely and, again,
only partially destroying the grain. The
moths issue, late in June and in July, a
week or more after spinning the cocoons.
a, shows head of sorghum; b, larva, side
view; c, back view; (?, cocoon; e, chrysalis;
The other letters refer to the several parts enlarged.
4^
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN. 625
VIII. Sugar-Cane Beetle.
The technical name is Ligyrus rugiceps. Five years ago a black beetle made its
appearance which proved most destructive to sugar-cane, especially so to
native cane in Louisiana. Its habits are not, as yet, well known, but the
presumption is that its depredations will be, like those of the May-beetle,
not constant. So far as we know, the ground beetles, the larvae of some „. ■
click beetles, an ichneumon fly, and a beetle belonging to the same family
with the Ligyrus, have been found destroying them. Beetle.
IX. The Smaller Corn-Stalk Borer.
This is another newly-discovered insect, which most seriously depredates on
corn, by boring. It would seem, so far, to be confined to the South, destroying
many stalks and thus necessitating re-planting. Besides this, it works through the
entire season as late as October, doing much damage. The insect is known as Pem-
pelia lignasella. The explanation of the illustration is as follows: a, is the stalk
showing the work of the grub or larva; b, larva; c, pupa; d d, moth, natural size,
at rest and with wings expanded. The other letters refer to the several parts
enlarged, and are of no consequence except to scientific persons.
Dr. Riley describes the insect at length. From his destiription we condense :
The moth issues in about ten days after the larva has transformed to pupa. It has
the singular habit of feigning death, and is not readily disturbed. The corn or other
object upon which it may be resting can be handled quite roughly, and it even
allows itself to be touched, when it will either remain in position, or will only move
for a short distance, and will rarely attempt to fly. If, however, the corn on which
it rests be shaken too suddenly, it will drop to the ground, draw the legs and antenna
close to the body, and will remain in this position motionless for a considerable
length of time, even if quite roughly moved about. It rests in an upright position
with the wings close to the body with their tips on the corn ; the antennae are laid
backward on the dorsum and are not readily seen. Its flight is quite swift but of
short duration.
This insect appears to be at least two-brooded in the Southern States.
Preventives. — It will be impossible to find a perfect preventive for the damage
done by this insect, since it hibernates, as we have just stated, in all three states of
larva, pupa, and adult. It seems extremely probable, however, that plowing up and
burning the stubble will greatly reduce the numbers of the worms. The earlier this
is done the more effectual will it prove.
X. The Rice- Stalk Borer.
This is another new insect. It is found boring into rice stalks in the Southern
States. Its generic name is chilo aryzeltus. The explanation of the cut, next page, is:
a, larva in split stalk, side view; b, larva, back view; c, pupa; d, female moth,
natural size. It is allied to the species feeding on the sugar-cane. Every burrow
40
626
THE HOME AND rARM MANUAL.
e
BICE -STALK BOEEK.
examined contained either larvas, pupae or fresh pupa skins at the time that harvest
had already commenced. In the volunteer rice, however, another brood is probably
developed.
The duration of the pupa state varied from
seven to twelve days, and the moths issued from
August 20 to September 5. The moth is a very
pale yellowish or straw-yellow color, with
golden cilia to the front wings, a few golden scales
scattered over the disk, and a series of seven
black dots on the hind margin. It has an average
expanse of a trifle more than an inch.
fjUeiuies. — Dipterous larvae were found
destroying a pupa inside the stalk, and in a
sinde instance, there has been bred from them Phoraaletice Comstock, a fly whose
larvae were supposed to be parasitic but which seem to be more scavengers than
parasites.
Preventive Measures. — The border, in the fields Mr. Howard examined,
occurred in about one-fifth of the blasted stalks. It was sufiiciently abundant, in fact,
to make its destruction a matter of some importance. The later brood, if there is
one, must take to the volunteer rice around the edges of the fields, or to the large
grasses growing upon the embankments, though none were found in such. It is the
custom, some time during the winter, to burn the stubble over the entire plantation.
Great care is however taken not to allow the fire to reach the trash near or upon the
embankments, as the soil of which these are made is of such a character as to burn
readily, and their bulk would be greatly reduced by such a burning. Instead, then,
of burning the weeds and volunteer rice along these banks, they are simply cut. It
is probably here that the insect hibernates, either as larva or pupa, and it will be
necessary to cut most carefully
the wild rice and grass close to the
ground and carry it to some safe
place where it can be thoroughly
i ]s» i burned.
XI. Grass-worm of the South.
.'\jsroTHER insect depredating
on rice is the common grass-worm
of the South {Lavhygma frugi-
perda). The moths, when abun-
dant, lay their eggs on the growing
rice-stalks. Flooding will, of
The insect is said also to be hurtful, not only to grass, but to
A solution of Paris green, or London purple,
Fig. 1.
Grass- worm oi the South.
Fig. 2.
Moth of Grass-worm.
course, kill the larvae
cabbage, strawberry plants and beans
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN. 627
will kill them when it can be apphed. Cabbage and other plants to which poison
cannot be applied, may be treated with pyrethrum, which will also be indicated for
the cabbage butterfly in the North. Young ducks, young chickens and turkeys should
also be liberally employed in the extermination of all the insects pests of the garden.
Of those mentioned, young ducks are the most agile and, for their size, the most
voracious fowls we have ever employed. We give two cuts of grass-worms. In
Fig. 1, a is the larva, natural size; b, head from front; c, a middle joint from above;
d, the same joint, side, enlarged. In Fig. 2, at a, is shown moth of grass-worm
(L. frugiperda), natural size; h, wings of the variety fusca; and c, wings of the
variety obscura.
XII. Corn Bill-Bug. i
A cuRCULio-LiKE beetle has of late years done much damage to corn. This is
especially true of the South. This insect is sphenophorus robustus. It punctures the
stalk and sucks the sap near the ground. It has been known
for years in various States East, West and South. The egg is
laid in the stalk, just at the surface of the ground, sometimes
below, and the pith is eaten at these points; this of course
greatly weakens the stalk. Dr. Eiley says that wherever the larva
had reached its full size, the pith of the stalk was found com-
pletely eaten out for at least five inches. Below ground, even
the hard, external portions of the stalk were eaten through.
Corn Bin- Bug ^'^^ "^ ^'^^ instance everything except the rootlets had disap-
peared, and the stalk had fallen to the ground.
In a great majority of instances but a single larva was found in a stalk, but a
few cases were found where two larvse were at work. In no case had an ear filled on
a stalk bored by this larva. The stalk was often stunted and twisted, and the lower
leaves were invariably brown and withered.
The cut of Corn Bill-Bug shows a closely allied species, Rhodobcenus 13-punciatus
(Illiger), which has a more slender form than the corn bill-bug described above, a,
gives back view, with markings; b, the side form of the insect.
Preventives. — With regard to preventives, a most perfect one will be found,
as already indicated, in pulling up and burning the stubble during the winter, or,
preferably, as early as possible after harvest. With reference to this remedy Glover
says a very perceptible decrease of the bill-bug has been observed M'here the practice
of burning the roots has been followed, and, if persevered in, might nearly eradicate
them in the course of a few years.
XIII The Corn or Cotton-Boll Worm.
The description of the army-worm will do fairly for that of the cotton-worm of
the Southern States. Although the species are distinct, their work is the same. They
628
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
CORN OR COTTOX-BOLL WORM.
devastate fields by eating the leaves of plants. The boll-worm, corn-worm and
tomato worm (Heliothis armigera) are identical. This also feeds upon various other
plants, such as the red-pepper, Jamestown -weed {Datura), the ground-cherry
(phrysalis), and, in Europe, upon tobacco. Here the young ears of Indian corn are
its favorite food, and in the South,
where the insect is three-brooded, it
attacks the cotton boll, probably be-
cause the corn is then too hard for the
third brood. The cut shows the boll-
worm and its work on the tomato. In
the North the insect does comparatively
little injury — princiijally to late sweet
corn and tomatoes. In the South,
however, it has become a great pest.
For this reason we append the sugges-
tions of Judge Laurence Johnson, of
Holly Springs, (who has made a care-
ful investigation of the subject) to the
Department of Agriculture. This contains much that is of practical value.
FTeYentiYes.—r-Ueliotkids, as known, pass the winter in the pupa state in the
earth, in cotton and corn fields, where the full-grown worm drops. As often as
possible, then, change the cropping, and never plant cotton after corn if it can be
avoided; nor should it be planted near corn if the crop can be pitched otherwise.
"When a cotton-field becomes much polluted sow it down, in wheat or oats, or plant in
corn, to be followed by one of these. Green corn is the great nursery -of this
plague, and next to the corn is a gi'eat crop of Southern cow-peas.
. The worst infested field I observed this year was a small one in which there had
been a bad stand of cotton in the spring, and to mend it corn was planted in the
missing places. By unskilled working more damage was done to the stand, and to
mend this again cow-peas were dropped in the gaps. No arrangement could have
suited Heliothis better. The peas supphed the moth shelter during the day, and their
favorite repast at fall of evening.
Some old and formei'ly large and successful planters tell me that their practice
to top cotton, about the 10th of August, and burn the young shoots was a check
to the boll-worm. By this practice no doubt many eggs and young larvae were
destroyed.
Natural Enemies. — Their natural enemies afford some degree of protection.
Birds might be fostered, by putting up martin boxes about in the fields. The blue-
birds are fine hunters of the worms, but I have never seen them catch the moth.
They will take to any kind of a box if the martins do not. These are great fly-
catchers, as is well known, and fly late — the very time for crop-destroying moths of
all kinds. But of all birds, the most effectual are domestic turkeys and chickens.
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN. 62S»
Turkeys range through a cotton-field, looking up into the leaves, and well hid must
be the worm they do not find. Their value has long been known in tobacco-fields.
Chickens, on the other hand, not so good after worms, are exceedingly active in
pursuit of the moths. "When two small fields, near me, and daily visited this sum-
mer, became naturally infested with aletia, the last of August and first of September,
the neighboring chickens and turkeys were there from morning until evening. They
never allowed aletia to get more than half grown. Even when, the 20th of Septem-
ber, I brought hundreds of aletia larvae into one of the fields for experiments with
pyrethrum, the turkeys hunted them out, and, with superior interest and eyesight, in
a few hours none were left except two, which were old enough to web up before they
were found out.
How they should find the boll-worm so often I do not know, but as a fact it was
vain for me to mark stalks with young Heliothis upon them with a view to future
obsex'vations. The turkeys were there from morning until night, and no Heliothis
dared to show his head, as they often do at close of day, without danger from these
vigilant guards. Practically, I was compelled to cage all I proposed to watch. To
the great planting interest these facts can be of little value. It would require flocks
of immense numbers, and to be herded about over the fields, to accomplish anything
proportionate to what is above related of small patches near habitations. Jays,
blackbirds, woodpeckers, and crows destroy vast numbers of Heliothis in corn about
the time the grain begins to toughen, but these allies levy toll also on the crop.
XIV. Remedies for the Cotton-Worm, South.
The observations upon the army- worm will apply everywhere to the cotton-worm.
In the South, eggs of the cotton-worm, Aletia argillacea, are deposited in the cotton
fields. Unlike the army-worm of the North (Leucania unipuncta), the cotton-worm
seems rarely a traveler, though, if the necessity came so to do, it might develop ability
in this line. According to Dr. Eiley, the cotton-worm makes its first appearance in the
southern portion of the Cotton Belt between the middle of April and the middle of
May. Near the Gulf of Mexico, seven or more successive broods have been produced
before being cut off by frost. It is thus easy to see that, the more that is done to
destroy the earlier broods, the less the injury from the later. In the article on cotton
cultivation we have figured a machine for spraying any hoed crops from above. The
illustration, Spraying Cotton from Below, shows a machine for a different method.
This is much more effective for cotton, since the worms feed naturally on the under
side of the leaf . (See next page.)
In relation to poisons Dr. Eiley says: By the ordinary method of sprinkling
poison from water-pots, or in broadcast sprays from barrel pumps, about forty gal-
lons of water containing one pound of Paris green or two-fifths of a pound of London
purple, kept well mixed by stirring or shaking, may be applied, to the acre. When a
bellows atomizer is used to diffuse it more finely and more thoroughly, which is much
preferable, less than half that quantity of poison and water to the acre will give
G30
THE HOME \XD E \R"M MANUAL.
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN. 631
equally good results. In sifting on dry poison by such sifters as are usually em-
ployed, one pound of the Paris green to thirty-five pounds of such mixture of flour
and ashes, or one pound of London purple to forty-five pounds of such mixture, are
proper proportions to use. The flour is adhesive, holding the poison fast to the
leaves and coating the particles of poison so that they come less in contact with the
surface of the plant, and hence it helps to prevent their caustic action or burning of
the leaves. The ashes have a still greater ameliorative effect in preventing the caustic
action, and on this account it is well to use as much as one-third ashes to two-thirds
flour to form the mixture. With this preparation the poison cannot be too thoroughly
mixed. Better devices for mingling these homogeneously with each other are still to
be sought. The best now easily prepared by the planter consists of a barrel with a
number of rods put through it endwise, and a great number of large spikes driven
through its sides to project far into the cavity.
XV. Poisons for Worms.
These are put into the barrel through a large hole, which is then closed, while
the barrel is hung upon an axis and rotated until thoroughly mixed.
It should be added that in case the poisons recommended are in any instance not
obtainable, the pure arsenic or arseniate of soda may be resorted to, since these have
been used to advantage, though not always with the best satisfaction. Although these
substances are cheap, their caustic effect on the plant is greater. The mixture now
most used consists of twenty grains of arseniate of soda and 200 grains of dextrine,
dissolved in one gallon of cold water. Four ounces of this mixture to forty gallons
of water can be sprinkled on each acre. The common arsenic water, which every
druggist knows how to make, will answer well. To make it from the white arsenic
(arsenious acid) and common baking (carbonate of) soda is cheaper than to buy the
arseniate, although the arseniate method of preparation involves less time and labor.
One-fifth of a pound of sal soda to a pound of arsenic should be boiled in a gallon of
water until dissolved. The solution is permanent, no stirring or shaking being neces-
sary to keep the poison mixed. One quart of the solution to forty gallons of water
is used on each acre.
In applying poison with blowers, a much smaller quantity of the poison and its
dilutents will be sufficient, and when the poison is blown onto the under surfaces the
adhesive element is no longer needed.
Both Paris green and London purple, when not adulterated, and where properly
applied, have always given satisfactory results. The latter seems to act a little slower
than the Paris green ; perhaps, because the worms do not eat it so quickly, for they
refuse to eat poisons until they become very hungry, but it is much the cheapest, and
being a finer powder, is susceptible of a much thinner distribution than it usually gets.
If very thinly and evenly applied, it will be eaten sooner, and when used in due time
will prove equally as effective as the Paris green. And it is likewise commendable to
administer any poison whatever that is to be used, so early as to destroy the worms
632
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN.
633
684 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
before they reach destructive size, and before they appear on the upper surfaces of
the leaves. Planters must be urged to watch carefully the under surfaces of the foli-
age throughout the cultivating season. The very young worms are less easily seen
than the small spots of light color made by their gnawing off little patches from the
lower surfaces of the leaves. As soon and whenever the young ones have started,
apply the poison immediately beneath the foliage. The plowman or "weed-chopper"
should be taught how to see the young worms and be carefully trained to find them.
At the same time he should have hanging from his shoulder or plow, a light bellows
atomizer, charged with poison, ready for use.
The cut of machine explains itself. A fountain or other force-pump must be
used, and the proper fixtures provided.
XVI. The Hateful Grasshopper or Locust.
All grasshoppers are not locusts, but locusts are what is generally known as
grasshoppers. The insects usually called locusts, in the eastern portion of the United
States, are not locusts at all, but cicadas. These are an entirely different insect,
appearing regularly, and at stated periods of fourteen or seventeen years, on trees.
Those periods represent the time the larva lives, according to the species, in the
ground, before transforming into the perfect insect. They do far more damage
when feeding on under-ground roots than when they make their periodical visits.
The True Locust. — This is far more formidable, devastating vast regions.
The hateful grasshopper, well named by the late Dr. Walsh, (the caloptenus spretus
of entomology), differs so little from the common red-legged locust of Harris (calop-
tenus Femur ruhrum), a common so-called grasshopper, that, except to entomologists,
there is no apparent difference. Hence, those who have seen our common red-legged
grasshopper, and who has not, will form a very good idea of what the dreaded locust
of the region west of the Mississippi is like. The locust is preyed upon by every
insect-eating thing, and that it is a good food for man we have reliable evidence. The
oriental locust is not more destructive and is not unlike our own, which is but too
well-known to all in the districts west of the Mississippi, which they occasionally
ravage. Hence, nothing need be said about it here. To show the large area of the
United States visited by these pests, we insert a map, showing both the breeding
grounds of the insects and the regions visited. The map fully explains itself.
XVII. Remedies Against the Grasshopper.
As previously stated, their habits are known to all who live in the locust-infested
districts. Full descriptions are, therefore, not necessary. The eggs are laid in
masses, and so closely do they lie together, that bushels may be found on a compara-
tively small area.. Where the ground is light and porous, prolonged and excessive
moisture will cause most of the eggs to perish, and irrigation in autumn or in spring
may prove beneficial. Yet, experiments prove that it is by no means as effectual as
is generally believed, and as most writers have assumed to be the case. In pastures
INSECTS DESTROYING GRASS AND GRAIN.
635
or in fields where hogs, cattle, or horses can be confined when the ground is not
frozen, many, if not most of the locust eggs will be destroyed by the rooting and
tramping. The eggs are frequently placed where none of the above means of des-
troying them can be employed. In such cases they should be collected and destroyed
by the inhabitants, and the State should offer some inducement in the way of bounty
for such collection and destruction. Every bushel of eggs destroyed is equivalent to
a hundred acres of corn saved.
Destroying the Eggs. — One of the most rapid ways of collecting the eggs,
especially where they are numerous and in light soils, is to slipe off about an inch of
the soil by a trowel or spade, and then cart the egg-laden earth to some sheltered
place where it may be allowed to dry, when it may be sieved so as to separate the
eggs and egg masses from the dirt. The eggs thus collected may easily be destroyed
by burying them in deep pits, providing the ground be packed hard on the surface.
THE BILEY LOCUST-GATHBREB.
Killing the Young. — The young grasshopper after hatching will congregate on
timothy in preference to other grasses or grain, and a strip of timothy around a corn
or wheat field, poisoned with a solution of Paris green, would kill, the insects. In
fact, any of the means given for the destruction of the army-worm would be more or
less effective.
Trapping. — ^This can easily be accomplished, especially when the locusts are
makino- their way from roads and hedges. Thus, the use of nets or seines, or long
636 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
strips of muslin, calico, or similar materials, converging after the manner of quail
nets, have proved very satisfactory. By digging pits or holes three or four feet deep,
and then staking the two wings so that they converge toward them, large numbers
may be secured in this way after the dew is off the ground, or they may be headed off
when marching in a given direction. Much good can be accomplished by changing
the position of the trap while the locusts are yet small and congregate in isolated or
particular patches. Many machines have been made for trapping locusts. Of these
each district has its favorite. The cut of the Riley Locust Gatherer shows the one
invented by Dr. Riley, United States Entomologist. It is simple and effective. D is
a slide-door, to be closed when the receptacle, B, is full of locusts ; ^ is a slide-door,
to be raised when the locusts are to be passed into a bag for killing ; A shows the
contraction towards D, whence the insects naturally run as the machine is drawn
forwards. [See page 635.1
CHAPTER IV.
OTHER DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS AND THEIR ENEMIES.
INSECTS INJURIOUS TO TREES. II. INSECTS INJURIOUS TO CONIFEROUS TREES. III. INSECTS
INJURING THE GRAPE. IV. INSECTS INJURING FRUIT TREES. V. LEAF ROLLERS. VI. APPLE
TREE CASE BEAKER. VII. THE ORANGE LEAF-NOTCHER. VIII. FULLER'S ROSE BEETLE. IX.
INSECTS INJURING PLANTS. X. SNOUT BEETLES. XI. THE WHITE GRUB OR MAY BEETLE.
XII. THE SPANISH FLY 014 BLISTER BEETLE. XIII. BENEFICIAL INSECTS— LADY BIRDS. XIV
SOLDIER BEETLES. XV. TIGER BEETLES. XVI. OTHER BEETLES AND PARASITES. XVII.
CONCLUSIONS.
I. Insect Injurious to Trees.
|0 describe all the insects infesting our crops would require volumes. Our aim
---_--^ has been simply to show by accurate engravings some of the most destructive,
y^^ and some of the more recently discovered, with brief descriptions ; preventives
against their ravages, and the remedies when known. The name of insects
infesting our orchard and forest trees is legion. The more ruinous ones are generally
known, but there are some which are destructive and yet not widely disseminated.
Some of these we illustrate, besides giving their names and habits and the best means
for getting rid of them.
Catalpa Sphinx.' — Of late years the catalpa has been much planted in the West.
This tree is exempt from attacks of insects as a rule, but its peculiar moth, the catalpa
sphinx, deserves notice. In the illustration, page 638, a shows the egg mass; b, the
newly hatched larvae, feeding; c, larvae one-third grown; e, _/ and h, differently
marked larvae; /, the pupa taken from its case; fc, the moth, natural size. At I, is
an egg enlarged to show its form.- The illnstration shows the general characteristics
of all the species, of which there are many.
Remedies. — The catalpa sphinx has several parasites, and they are also devoured
by many kinds of birds. In fact its natural enemies keep it pretty well suppressed.
The egg masses should be destroyed wherever found. All large moths, of whatever
species, should be trapped and killed, for the larvae are voracious. The worms being
gregarious may be hunted and killed in numbers, especially when molting. Spraying
the infested trees with lime-water will kill the larvae, but a solution of Paris green or
London purple is more effective. In fact the latter is the remedy for all insects
infesting the leaves of plalits and trees, when the fruit may not thus be rendered
dangerous to man.
Osage Orange Sphinx. — (Sphinx Hageni). — This insect is here figured, since
it is yet rare, and also because it is one of the most beautiful of sphinxes. Dr.
[637]
638
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
TFIK CATALPA Sl'HINX
OTHER DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS AND THEIR ENEMIES.
639
Eiley says the general color is light brown, with olivaceous shades, and marked with
black and white, as indicated in the figure. There is a small white spot, surrounded
by black, near the middle of the front wings, and a large white patch immediately
outside of this, as well as another at the tip of the wing, the latter bounded behind
by an oblique, wavy, black line. The wing is crossed by four transverse black lines
outside of the central spot, one of which runs into that spot, and two or three
nearer the base. The outer margin is strongly shaded with white, and the fringes
alternately of the ground color and white. The hind wings are smoky brown,
lighter toward the base, crossed by an indistinct darker band. The under side of the
OSAGE OEANGE SPHINX.
wings is cinereous, crossed by darker lines. The middle of the thorax is of the color
of the fore-wings, the edges whitish, with a black 'line running through the white
portion. Abdomen brownish cinereous, with dorsal, sub-dorsal, and traces of lateral
black lines, as shown in our figure. The variation is great, some specimens being
very light, others almost black.
II. Insects Injurious to Coniferous Trees.
Of late years great injury has been done to evergreens by insects that have in-
creased wonderfully, probably through the large production of such trees, and also,
without doubt, from the slaughter of birds, and general inattention to the ravages of
the insects.
Pine-Tree Borer. Comstock's Eetinia. — This insect bores into the twigs and
young growths of pitch pine. The cut of Pine-Tree Borer, Fig. 1, shows butterfly.
640
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
larva and pupa, the hair-lines giving the natural size. On the branch is shown the
gall and exuded gum, and also a section of the same below. The remedy is to cut off
all infected parts and burn them. For when trees are kejDt on the lawn it is necessary
to protect them from the depredations of insects.
Another species, the frustrating ret! ni a (i2._/rM.si?"ana), which infests pitch and
other pines of the South, is shown in Fig. 2. This insect ruins both the delicate
twigs and the base of the leaves.
PINE-TREE BORER.
Fig. 1.
PDJE-TEEE BORER.
RESIN-INHABITING DIPLOSIS.
Resin-Inhabiting DiplosiS. (Z). resinicola ) . — This insect damages pitch pine.
North and South, and any one having handsome lawn evergreens cannot be too watch-
ful of them. The illustrations we give must suffice for all evergreen trees. The fig-
ure of Resin-Inhabiting Diplosis shows the work of the insect. Its home, when
transforming, is in the resinous lumps shown, but when feeding, the insect burrows
in the soft part of the bark. It will be seen by the hair-lines showing natural length,
that the insect is little more than a midge ; but it is destructive.
OTHER DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS AND THEIR ENEMIES.
641
The Pine-Leaf Miner.— (Gelechia pinifoliella). This is a new species, and
another of " the destructive little things." The cut shows all that is necessary to ^
enable one to recognize it. The hair-lines mark the
size of the insect. It mines the leaves of many kinds
of pines, principally the yellow and pitch pines.
There has been no remedy indicated. In fact, insect-
PINB-LEAF MINEE.
JUNIPEK WEB -WORM.
eating birds and parasites are the best means of destroying this class of insects. A
minute chalcid is said to puncture and deposit its eggs in the body of the pine-leaf
miner.
The Juniper Web-Worm. — (DapsiUa rutilana). Various web-worms prey
upon evergreens and especially upon the junipers. Since this worm lives entirely
within its web, except when eating, it is difficult to extirpate. It is one of the worms
that eat the foliage and should, therefore, be treated by spraying with a solution of
Paris green.
III. Insects Injuring the Grape. ^
The phyloxera are the most deadly. The many insects of the caterpillar tribe
depredating upon the grape must be gotten rid of by such methods as may be
suggested. Showering the vines with a solution of Paris green of the strength recom-
mended for the cotton-worm would be indicated when the vines are not in fruit.
Borers must be extracted, galls taken off, aphides and other lice cleaned away, and
eternal vigilance generally practiced, unless the cultivator is content with few varieties
and such as are most exempt from the ravages of insects.
41
642
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
The Plea-Beetle. — Few enemies of the grape are more destructive in a general
way than the- flea-beetle (^Graptodara chalybea). The remedy for their destruction
is to remove and destroy, in the autumn, all rubbish about the vines, and strew
unslaked lime or unleached ashes liberally about. In the spring, shower the canes
and young foliage with Paris green, and in the morning, when the air is chilly, the
FLEA-BEETLE.
beetles may be shaken onto sheets and killed. The cuts show the beetle and larvae
enlarged, also the thigh which gives it leaping powers. The hair lines show the natu-
ral size of the beetles, and the larvae are at work on the leaves.
IV. » Insects Injuring Fruit Trees.
Lime-Tree Winter-Moth, {Hybemia tiliaria). — This insect is little known,
but it is a fair specimen of the large family called span-worms, destructive to so
OTHER DESTRUCTIVE INSECTS AND THEIR ENEMIES.
643
many kinds of trees. Like the canker-worm of the apple tree, the female is wing-
less; it is shown to the left of cut of Lime-Tree Winter-Moth, the male (moth) being
shown on top and the larvse upon the leaves.
Remedies. — The females of the canker-worms being without wings, they
cannot lay their eggs, if they can be prevented from climbing up the trees. Hence,
-.bands covered with tar and oil, of the right consistency to entangle the feet of the
insect in attempting to pass, are efficient. Probably printers' ink is the best for
smearing the bands, since it retains its viscidity for a long time. If the worms get a
lodgement in the top of the tree, they may be jarred, and they will spin down upon
a silken thread. By passing a pole rapidly under the tree, they may be entangled
and destroyed. Ants are great destroyers of canker-worms, A friend of ours keeps
Ms large orchard free of them by cultivating the common prarie ant.
V. Leaf Rollers.
Two insects deserving notice here are the apple-leaf sewer (^Phoxopteris
nebeculana) , which we illustrate, and
the strawberry leaf-roller (P. fra-
graria). The cut of the Apple-leaf
Sewer shows the insect as moth and
larva, the hair-lines showing the natural
size. The work of the insect in sew-
ing the leaf together is also shown. It
passes the winter rolled up in the dried
leaves.
The Remedy.— Pick off all dried
them. On strawberry . plants the leaves
APPLE -LEAF SBWEE.
leaves on the trees in the winter and burn
may be sprinkled with hellebore-powder and water
ORANGE LBAF-NOTCHBR.
APPLE-TREE CASE -BEARER.
VI. Apple-Tree Oase-Bearer.
This insect, known also as apple-tree caleophora (O. malivorella) , destroys the
644
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
buds, and later in the season it sometimes reduces the leaves to skeletons. It gets
its name from the curious cases shown at a, in the cut, these being the shields under
which the insect moves.
Remedy. — The insect hibernates in the cases. The remedy is to scrub the twigs
with alkaline wash, or perhaps the kerosene emulsion, recommended for the orange
scale, would be preferable. The cut shows the insect in all its stages, the hair lines
showing natural size.
VII. The Orange Leaf-Notcher.
This insect injures the foliage of orange trees by notching the leaves as shown
in the cut, on page 643. Its scientific name is Artipus floridanus. It is pale
greenish-blue or copper color, densely covered with white scales.
Remedy. — ^In Florida they are destroyed by jarring the trees and collecting the
beetles in sheets, as is done in all plum and peach raising districts to destroy the
curculio. The orange scale insects have been already noticed.
if
FULLEE'S EOSE BEETLE.
THACDJA PAIU51TB OX MELON WORMS.
VIII. Fuller's Rose Beetle.
MELON WORM.
The rose beetle (^Aramigus Fulleri) has attracted much attention within the last
ten years from its depredations upon roses east of the Allegham"es, especially upon
tea roses propagated under glass. The cut shows the insect in its several stages of
development, the small beetle and the hair-lines showing the natural size. The figures
in lower row are enlargements of the several parts. It is a snout beetle, and like all
the curculio tribe, shy. The damage is done by the larvae, which eat the leaves
OTHER DESTEUCTIVE INSECTS AND THEIR ENEMIES.
645
The Remedy. — Pick or shower them off. Also, one precaution is to thrust
folds of oil paper in slits of small pegs and stick the pegs into the ground about the
plants. The eggs will be laid in the folds, and may be destroyed.
IX. Insects Injuring Plants.
The Melon Worm. — This insect (pkakellura hyalinatalis') is one of the most
desti-uctive to melons of the caterpillar tribe at the South. The cut shoTv^s the insect
in its various stages. They not only eat the leaves of musk-
inelons, but also bore into the fruit. They are preyed upon by
a tacTiina fly, shown in connection with the worm, and also by an
ichneumon fly.
The Remedy. — The only remedy is hand-pieking and the
use of pyrethrum powder.
Asparagus Beetle. — This beetle (crioceris asparagi) is
most destructive in gardens where it gets a foot-
hold. The beetle and larva are shown enlarged,
with hair-lines showing natural size. The worm
lives on the tender bark of the asparagus, and
sticks pertinaciously, no matter how hard the
stalks may be shaken before bunching. Hand-
picking in the spHng is the usual remedy, but if
all seedlings in. the patch were hoed up, and no
wild asparagus allowed to grow, the beetles would only have the young shoots on
which to lay their eggs. Hence, since these are cut for market or use every other
day, the eggs would not hatch.
X. Snout Beetles.
The snout beetles are among the most destructive insects; they include the
weevil. In their winged state they are hard-shelled, varying in
size from the minute to the imbricate shout beetle (epiccerus
imhricatus), as represented in cut of Snout Beetle. This beetle
is somewhat of a universal feeder, attacking the
twigs of various fruits, also cabbage, radish and
other cruciferous plants, beans, corn, beets, and
plants of the watermelon and cucumber tribe.
Rem.edies. — On trees it may be taken by
jarring onto sheets; on vegetables, by hand-
picking.
Sweet Potato Root-Borer. — ( Cylus for-
micarius). — This southern species seems to be
widely distributed all over the tropical and sub-tropical regions of the world, and
is found in the Gulf States. . It bores into the roots.
ASPARAGUS BEETLE.
Snout Beetle.
SWEET POTATO
BORER.
DISTENDED
MAY BEETLE.
646 THE HOME AND PAEM MANUAL.
The Bemedy. — As soon as the potatoes are found to be infested with this
LADY BIRDS OF CALIFOENIA.
borer, the most effectual remedy is to dig the crop without delay, and feed the
infested roots to stock.
OTHER DESTRUCTIVE nSTSECTS AND THEIR ENEMIES.
647
XI. The White Grub or May Beetle.
These are among the most destructive of insects. The larvae live a variable
length of time in the ground, eating the roots of grass and plants. We have
seen a meadow infested with the common May beetle of the North so destroyed that
the sod might be rolled up like a carpet. The distended May beetle {Lachno sterna
fareta) is a southern species. It injures garden crops, especially beans. Like all
night-flying insects, it is attracted by a light, and this seems the readiest method
of destroying it. For cut see page 645.
XII. The Spanish Ply or Blister-Beetle.
Thesis insects, of which there are a large number of species, are most destructive
to plants of various kinds, seeming to be almost universal feeders.
All of them seem to have the blistering qualities of the so-called
Spanish fly (cantharis). The figures will give a good idea of the
species North and South. The illustration shows Nuttall's blister-
beetle (^Cantharis NuttalW). This will serve to give their general
character, although the most of the genus are smaller and some of
them handsome.
The Remedy. — They may be driven from fields like grasshop-
pers, on to straw and stubble, and there killed by setting fire around
the edges. They have many insect enemies and are said to prey upon
other insects themselves. Biister-Beetie.
XIII. Beneficial Insects— Lady-birds.
The lady-birds, belonging to the family Coccinellidse, are among the most useful
of insects, their only food being other insects, and especially the eggs of other insects.
They should be most carefully protected, and care should be taken not to mistake
them for the single vegetable-eater figured page 587, Fig. 4. This vegetable-eater
somewhat resembles Fig. 1, shown on this page (^Hippodamia Maculata), and also the
twelve-spotted diabrotica, Fig. 2. But a comparison will show the plant-eater to be
Fig. 1.
Fig. 3. Fig. 4.
LADY-BIEDS.
M:
Fig. 5.
Fig. 6.
rounder, larger and critically different. The cuts show some of the principal varieties
Fig. 3 is Ooccinella Munda; Fig. 4, O. Venitsta; Fig. 5, the true marked cocci-
nella ; Fig. 6, the pupa of the latter species suspended from a support.
California Varieties. — ^The preservation of the lady-birds is so important that
648
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
we illustrate some of the less known on page 646, magnified, the small figures at the
side showing the natural size of the beetles. Seen under a good pocket lens they
should look like the large figures. They are well worth careful study.
These are species found in California where they do good work destroying aphis,
scale and other insect pests. Fig. lis the larva of the ashy-gray lady-bird ( CycZo-
neda, abdominalis) ; Fig. 2, its pupa; and Fig. 3, the beetle. It has seven black
spots on the thorax and eight on each wing-cover. Fig. 4 is the pupa of the blood-
red lady-bird (0. iSanguinia), and Fig. 5, the beetle, varying in color from brick-red
to blood-red. This species is common all over the country. Fig. 6 is C. Oculata,
the history of which at present seems little known ; but please remember, again, that
all lady-birds are to be carefully cultivated. Fig. 7 is the pupa; Fig. 8, the larva;
and Fig. 9, the beetle of the cactus lady-bird ( Chilocarus cacti). The larva destroys
many insects, particularly bark and leaf (scale) lice. Figs. 10, 11 and 12, show the
larva, pupa and beetle of the ambiguous hippodamia (H. Ambigua). It is probably
one of the most beneficial of the California species, because one of the most abundant.
Fig. 13 shows the five-spotted coccinella of California (coccirieUa 5-notata). Fig. 14
is Hippodumia Convergens, a species common all over the United States.
XIV. Soldier Beetles.
Here is another class that prey on other insects, both in the larval and perfect
state. The strong jaws as represented in the enlarged head as seeh at b, are well
adapted, to killing, as their agility
is to catching their prey. Fig. 1
shows the variety known as
& J riUlH ( Ohauliognathus Pennsylv aniens')
found plentifully in the South.
The larva, a, is also shown with
mandibles and claws enlarged 3,t
Fig. 1.
Soldier Beetle.
Fig. 2.
b. It is the larvse that are carni- soidier Beetle.
vorous. The beetle shown at i, Fig. 1, like all the fire-fly family, are vegetable
feeders. The one in question seems to live on the pollen or nectar of flowers. The
yellow margined soldier beetle ( C marginatus) , Fig. 2, is a distinctly southern
species.
XV. Tiger-Beetles.
The tiger-beetles are indefatigable hunters and are well named. No insect that
they can master seems to come amiss to them. Fig. 1, next page, is the Carolina
tiger-beetle {Tetracha Carolina). Fig. 2, the Virginian (T. Virginica). These two
are said to be the only representatives of the genus tetrarcha in North America.
XVI. Other Beetles and Parasites.
The insect represented by Fig. 1 is the rapacious Soldier-bug ( 8inea multispi-
nosa). It is well named, for from plant-lice, which it eats when young, to canker-
(JtHEK destructive IlsrSECTS AND THEIR ENEMIES.
649
worms and Colorado potato-beetles, which it attacks when older, it eats indiscrimi-
nately all it can devour.
Fig. 1. Fig. 2.
TIGEE-BEETLBS.
Fig. 1.
SOLDIEK-BUG.
Fig. 2
GROtmD-BEETLE.
Take a good look, also, at Fig. 2. It is a Ground-beetle [Oalosoma calidum),
with larva. Then again we show, Fig. 3, Calosoma scrutator, a different looking
insect, but no less beneficial.
Fig. 3.
GROtlND-BEBTLE.
Fig. 4.
CHALCIS FLY.
The Chalcis and Tachina flies next demand attention. Fig. 4, is Trichogramma
minuta, enlarged which lays its eggs in the eggs of butterflites and moths,
notably of the cotton- worm. Fig. 5 is another chalcis-fly,
{Exiophilus mati), which destroys the
woolly apple-louse.
Next, Fig. 6, is a curious fly, Epax
apicaulis. They are among the most
beneficial of the Southern insects, and
may be called insect swallows from their
rapidity and rapacity in devouring the
cotton-moth.
Fig. 7 shows Lebia grandis, one of
the predatory beetles, and Fig. 8 the same
enlarged. Fig. 9 is a Tachina fly, parasite on the army-worm. [See next page.]
Fig. 6.
CHAI.CIS FLY.
Fig. 6.
EPAX APICAULIS.
650
THE HOME AND TAKM MANUAL.
, XVII. Conclusions.
We iiave given delineations of many new insects, and many older but not well-
known ones. The lesbias are all active, small beetles, some of them beautifully
marked. Lebia grandis feeds on the larva of the potato beetle, and is one of the
most valuable common insects.
Fig. 7.
Fig. 8.
LEBIA GRANDIS.
Fig. 9.
TAOHINA FLY.
The study of entomology is regarded as among the little things. Not so ! Insects
are among the most interesting and beautiful of created things. They occupy an im-
portant place in the economj' of nature, among other uses being the fertilization of
flowers by them. The destruction of their natural enemies, the birds, causes the
undue propagation of mischievous insects, so that artificial means become necessary
for their destruction.
CHAPTER V.
BIRDS IN THEIR RELATION TO AGRICULTURE.
I. BIEDS IN THE ECONOMY OF NATURE II. WHAT BIRDS SHALL WE KILL? HI. POOD OF SOME
COMMON BIEDS. IV. BIEDS CLASSIFIED BY THEIE TOOD. V. BIEDS THE NATUEAL ENEMY OF
INSECTS VI. BIRDS TO BE CAEEFULLY FOSTERED. VU. BIRDS OF DOUBTFUL UTILITY.
Vm. BIEDS lO BE EXTEEMINATED. ^IX. DESTEOYING INSECTS.
I. Birds in the Economy of Nature.
ill^ATUEE preserves the economy of her system, by pitting the several races
i^^ of animated nature one against another. All that breathes, including man, is
'^W'" animal, and all that vegetates is plant. With all it is a perpetual struggle for
•W" existence. Animals breathe the air, consume oxygen, giving off carbonic acid.
Plants exhale oxygen and consume carbonic acid. Here is one great and beautiful
economy in nature, to sustain equilibrium. The vegetable-eating animals are eaten
by man and the carnivorous animals, while some animals — man, bears, swine, etc.,
are both plant and flesh-eating.
The smaller birds feed on insects, berries and seeds; some almost exclusively on
the first and last, and some on both. Even fishes are divided into vegetable and flesh
eaters. If a soil becomes barren, plants cease to live; if food becomes scarce,
animated nature migrates to where it is more plenty. But man steps in with his
dense population in advancing civilization, and changes the economy of nature.
Hence, man must provide the remedy. Birds are killed or driven away, and insect
life increases. Forests are destroyed, and tornadoes, cyclones and waterspouts
devastate the land.
Shall not the birds be killed, or forests cut down ? Unquestionably, but the wise
man will do so with a wise discrimination. If all men acted wisely, we should have
less of trouble in many directions in agriculture. The practical answer to the ques-
tion, so far as birds are concerned, is to kill those birds that are injurious at the time
of their depredations, usually after the nesting season, and preserve them at all other
times.
There are two views from which birds are looked at generally. The scientific
view is that they are one of the forces of nature to balance other forces of nature.
The aesthetic view is that they are beautiful creatures, given by Providence to
beautify and help glorify the earth.
[651]
652 THE HOJIE AND FARM MANUAL.
II. What Birds Shall We Kill ?
The thoughtful man might well ask in aU seriousness, Is there any bird which we
may safely pursue to extermination? Upon careful investigation, he would say, No !
But assist Nature in checking that which may become an injury in the new order of
things which artificial man creates. The philosopher could never argue the indis-
criminate destruction of any birds, since he finds them great helps in the destruc-
tion of insects, so difiicult to man. When birds increase to such an extent as to
become seriously destructive to crops, he kills, but at all other times he fosters
them-.
Certain birds are not at aU injurious to the farmer, as the cat-bird, robin,
cherrj'-bird, etc. On the other hand, there are birds particularly destructive to the
farmer at certain seasons, as the red-winged blackbird. The first birds mentioned are
especially obnoxious to the fruit-grower, while the blackbird is not. So the quail,
prairie-fowl, and all others of the gallinaceous family, eat grain largely at such seasons
as they cannot find insects; and yet there are none that should be more carefully fos-
tered than not only these, but all. that class of land-birds usually denominated game-
birds.
Know Your Friends. — 'SYe do not sufficiently study to know which are our
friends and which our enemies ; or when they may be doing us exclusive good, and
when, perhaps, serious injury.
Let us take robins, for instance. They love fruit, and take what they want dur-
ing its season, if not carefully watched. What else? A family during the nesting
season, or when the young are hatched, will consume 200 larvae or worms each day.
This insect-food for three months, if allowed to multiply, would, in three or four
years, produce insects enough to consume every green thing on a square mile of land.
The stomach of the robin in March contained worms, grubs of the terrestrial
species of insects, and seeds; in April, insects, worms and grubs; in May, the same;
and so in June, with the addition of cockchafers; in July and August, many sorts of
worms and fruits; in September, larvae and seeds. In October, these birds migrate
South. Why? They can no longer procure their natural food — insects.
Moreover, the wise man will not urge blind and indiscriminate war against birds,
any more than upon insects; for there are many insects that are cannibals, eating
other insects, and, therefore, worthy of preservation. The wise man will kill such
birds, after the hatching season, as depredate to any serious extent upon his crops;
and it is surprising what a very little amount of killing will suffice to drive them from
crops, if done before they become fairly habituated to the diet. They love life, and
will not stay when their lives are in danger. Thus, if persistent shooting be kept up
in a field of grain or corn for two days, so that blackbirds cannot eat, they will
abandon the place for that of some person who thinks his crop not worth protecting.
If we give you a list of some of the more common varieties of birds, and the
food thej^ eat, you- may be able to form a pretty clear idea of their general value to
BIRDS IN THEIR RELATION TO AGRICULTURE. . 653
the cultivator, and will easily see that the indiscriminate slaughter of birds is anything
but wise. In fact, the total extermination of any one species would probably bring
with it evils of another nature, extremely difficult to be overcome.
Birds are found where shelter and food are most plentiful. In prairie countries,
birds are confined to but few specimens — grouse, quail, swallows, martins, meadow-
larks, and the rice-bunting, making up a large portion of them. Plant trees, and
their numbers increase indefinitely; for thus they have shelter. Protect them, and a
little killing during. the ripening of crops does not prevent their return with the
returning spring.
It is related that a shoemaker of Basle, Switzerland, once put a collar on a swal-
low in the autumn, containing this inscription : ,
" Pretty swallow, tell me whither goest thou in winter?" The next spring the
same courier, by the same means, brought this answer: " To Anthony, at Athens.
Why dost thou inquire ? ' '
Poetry is pleasant. Theory, speculation and sentiment are well enough in their
way. Practical knowledge, through careful observation, is what the practical man
wants when bread and butter are concerned.
III. Food of Some Common Birds.
What some of the more common birds eat will enable the practical man to answer
the question asked at the head of this article in the most practical manner possible.
Fruit-Eaters. — Robins, cat-birds, thrushes, blue-jays, cherry-birds, orioles,
and others of that class, are well known as fruit-eaters, as well as great destroyers of
insects. They are undoubtedly worthy of destruction by the horticulturist when fruit
is ripening — never so by the farmer.
The Eagle. — Of the rapacious birds, or those of prey, the eagle, notwith-
standing the airs he puts on as the "Bird o' Freedom," is a thief and robber, and not
especially brave.
Owls. — Of owls, the mottled owl (^8 cops Asio) and the saw-whet owl {Nictale
Acadica) : The first lives about barns in winter, if allowed, and both are inveterate
mousers. In the summer, they also eat large moths and beetles.
Hawks. — The hen-hawk will sometimes take a chicken; but their principal food
is mice, frogs, gras.shoppers, and various vermin. The broad-winged hawk eats mice,
grasshoppers and other insects. The rough-legged hawk eats principally field-mice.
The sparrow-hawk, early in the season, lives on birds and mice; later, principally on
grasshoppers. The swallow-tailed hawk lives on snakes, lizards, frogs, beetles, grass-
hoppers and other insects.
The red-tailed buzzard often makes bold attempts on barn-yard fowl ; but his
principal food is squirrels, rabbits, rats and mice.
The Crow. — The American crow, so universally and wrongfully detested by
farmers, eats mice, frogs and various insects; in fact, is an almost universal feeder;
but does not eat so much corn as he is charged with .
654 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Blackbirds. — The red-winged blackbird has been universally detested by farm-
ers. It pilfers the ripening grain when pressed by hunger. In the spring, its food
is cut-worms, wire-worms, caterpillars, and the larvae of noxious butterflies. It is
surprising what a little amount of shooting will drive them from the fields where
they flock after breeding time.
The purple grackle, or crow-blackbird, is less destructive. It pulls some corn,
it is true, but its principal food is injurious larvae, much of which it gets by follow-
ing the plowman if allowed.
Climbers. — The climbers include woodpeckers and cuckoos. They are nearly
all beneficial. The yellow-billed cuckoo especially — quite common in Northern
Illinois — are persistent devourers of that pest of orchards, the American tent-cater-
pillar.
The Oriole. — The Baltimore oriole lives largely on beetles, especially the plum
and pea curculio, and the long-snouted nut-weevil. It is very properly detested by
fruit-growers, from its mischievous habits among fruits. On the other hand, the
orchard oriole is a most industrious bird, and well worthy of protection — ridding our
orchards of hosts of noxious insects.
Wrens and Bluebirds. — The house-wren lives exclusively on insects. The
white-breasted nuthatch and the American creeper live on tree-insects alone. The
bluebird eats the 'larvae of insects exclusively, especially those of the canker-worm
and the codling-moth.
Finch, Lark and Plover. — The finch family, comprising about seventy species,
sometimes spread in flocks over large tracts of country, destroying immense numbers
of insects, larvae, and the seeds of weeds. So the warblers, as a rule, are of immense
benefit, through the destruction of multitudes of noxious insects. The rneadow-lark
subsists principally upon larvae which are found underground. The plover, which
nests on the prairie and in corn-fields, eats grasshoppers, beetles, snails, etc.
Land and Water Birds. — The land game-birds, although classed generally as
graniverous, are of undoubted benefit, since their food consists more largely of insects
than anything else. The water-birds — waders — as a class, are neither especially bene-
ficial nor injurious to the farmer. The swimming birds — ducks, geese, etc., — are deci-
dedly destructive, since, when they make excursions upon the land, it is generally for
the purpose of raiding upon fields of grain.
IV. Birds Classified by Their Food.
Birds may be classified very properly, into omnivorous — ^those living on a var-
iety of food; insectivorous — ^those living entirely on insects; and granivorous, or
those which make a large proportion of their food to consist of grain and seeds.
Omnivorous. — Of the first class, crows, blackbirds, jays, orioles, starlings, cedar-
birds and titmice are among the principal families. These, as a rule, feed indiscrimi-
nately on berries, seeds, grain and insects.
Insectivorous. — Of insectivox-ous birds, those feeding almost exclusively on
BIRDS IN THEIR RELATION TO AGRICULTURE. 655
insects — ^woodpeckers, swallows, night-hawks, shrikes, bluebirds, fly-catchers, creepers,
the warblers (Sylvise), and wrens are especially noteworthy. Few of these are hurt-
ful in any sense, and all of them are extremely beneficial, both to the farmer and
horticulturist. A few of them take a ripe berry now and then, but never to such a
degree as to cause them to be missed.
Granivorous. — These comprise the gallinaceous tribes, including our poultry-
birds, grouse, partridges, quail, etc., grosbeaks, tanagers, finches and buntings.
Many of them depredate severely upon the husbandman at times, and then may very
properly be killed. It must, however, always be borne in mind, that many of those
classified as being pre-eminently grain-eaters, as grouse, quail, blackbirds, finches,
etc., are also largely insect-eaters, and feed their young almost exclusively on insect-
ivorous larvae.
V. Birds the Natural Unemies of Insects.
It must be remembered, also, that birds are the natural enemies of insects; that,
were it not for birds, insect-life would soon increase to such an. extent as to devour
every green thing from the face of the earth ; that, even with their help, insects do
so increase in certain successions of prolific seasons as to overrun and devastate large
areas of country — locusts, chinch-bugs, Hessian-flies and army-worms, notably
among farmers; and codling-moths, canker-worms and curculio, among fruit-growers ;
that, in a state of nature, birds do hold insect-life in suitable check ; that, as a country
settles up, birds are destroyed to a considerable extent, while through the systematic
cultivation of the earth, a large supply of insect-food causes a corresponding increase
of insects, and, for cogent reasons, without a corresponding increase of birds — one
reason being that no species of birds are the special foes of insects prevalent in par-
ticular seasons ; another being, that insect-propagation is so extremely prolific when
the conditions are suited thereto. Therefore, let us use a wise discretion in the pro-
tection of birds, and as careful a discretion in killing them.
Birds destructive to one class of cultivators may be beneficial to another, and
vice versa. "When they are taking more than their share, one class may be killing
.them, while the other is protecting; and here, again, the natural law of self-preserva-
tion becomes apparent. Eobins, cat-birds, orioles, thrushes, etc., are not generally
regarded as destructive, but rather as being beneficial ; and for the reasons that the
culture of fruit is not the predominant industry, and orchards, at the time of ripening
their fruits, are, in many instances, watched. In the fruit regions these birds are
justly regarded as being the most inimical of the feathered creation.
"We hold that the extermination of any of our birds would be a serious evil ;
that if the cultivator would take the same pains to prevent, injury by birds as he must
in certain seasons to prevent the ravages of insects, and often failing even with the
help of birds, he would soon come to know, and to discriminate between those most
truly his friends, and those more destructive to his crops.
We have carefully stated the foregoing facts in order that the farmer need not
656 THE HOME AND PAKM MANUAL.
kill birds valuable in husbandry because they are reported obnoxious to the fruit-
grower. Each will kill the class that is injurious to his crops. The following test,
the results of the extended and most careful study of Prof. S. A. Forbes, as Curator
of the Museum, and Professor of Natural History in the State Normal University of
Illinois, and now State Entomologist, will show: 1, birds of the greatest value as
destroyers of injurious insects; 2, birds of doubtful utility in horticulture; and 3,
birds that should be exterminated by fruit growers.
VI. Birds to Be Carefully Postered.
Blue birds, tit-mice or chicadees; warblers (small summer birds, with pleasant
notes, seen in trees and gardens) ; martins; swallows; vireos (small birds called green-
necks);, all birds known as woodpeckers except the sap-sucker. The sap-sucker
is entirely injurious, as it is not insectivorous, but feeds on the inner bark cambium
and the elaborated sap of many species of trees, and may be, known from other
woodpeckers by its belly being yellowish, a large black patch on its breast, and the
top of its head of a dark, bright red ; the male has also a patch of the same on their
throats, and with the inner margins of the two central tail feathers white. This bird
should not be mistaken for two others, most valuable birds which it nearly resembles,
to wit : The hairy woodpecker and the downy woodpecker. These two species
have the outer tail feathers white, or white barred with black, and have only a small
patch of red on the back of the heads of the males only. The yellow-hammer, or
flicker, is somewhat colored with yellow, and should not be mistaken for the sap-
sucker ; it is a much larger bird. The red-headed woodpecker sometimes pecks into
apples, and devours cherries, and should be placed in the next division. The wrens,
ground robin, known as chewink, meadow lark, all the fly-catchers, the king bird,
or bee-catcher, whip-poor-will, night hawk, or goat-sucker, nut-hatcher, pewee,
or pewit. All the blackbirds, bobolink, American cuckoos, plovers, upland snipe,
grosbeaks and other finches, quails, song sparrow, scarlet tanager, black, white
and brown creepers, Maryland warbler, indigo bird, chirping sparrows, black-
throated bunting, thrushes, except those named in the next class, and all domestic
fowls except geese.
VII. Birds of Doubtful Utility.
This class includes those which have beneficial qualities, but which have also
noxious or destructive qualities, in the way of destroying fruits, other birds and their
nests, and whose habits are not fully determined. Thus the robin, brown thrush and
cat-bird are very valuable as cut-worm eaters, but also very obnoxious to the small
fruit-grower. The blue jay is not only destructive to grains "and fruits, but very
noxious in the way of destroying the nests, eggs and young of smaller and better
birds. I think that, notwithstanding his great beauty and sauciness, that he should
be placed in the list of birds to be exterminated. Robin, brown thrush and cat-bird,
shrike, or butcher bird, red-headed woodpecker, jay-bird or blue-jay, crow and the
small owls, pigeons and mocking birds. There are many other birds that should be
BIRDS IN THEIR RELATION TO AGRICULTURE. 657
placed in one or other of the foregoing lists; but it will be safe, as a rule, to preserve
all birds not named in VII. and VIII.
VIII. Birds to be Exterminated.
Sap-sucker, or yellow-bellied woodpecker, Baltimore oriole, or hanging bird,
cedar bird, or wax- wings, hawks and the larger owls.
The farmer should foster all the birds named in VI., and also those in VII., ex-
cept the blue-jay, and the oriole in VIII. As a fruit-grower we should accept the list
as written. The list of birds beneficial in husbandry might be widely extended.
Frederick the Great, of Prussia, because sparrows ate his royal cherries, ordered
their extermination throughout his Kingdom. This was faithfully carried out.
Insects so increased, especially caterpillars, the eggs of which sparrows eat, that
the small fruits could scarcely be raised at all. Then his royal wrath evaporated,
and he went to the cost of importing these birds for the benefit of his well-loved
subjects.
The blue jay is a nuisance to farmers ; it eats corn and is quarrelsome with other
birds, driving them away, yet for the fruit-grower it eats the eggs of the tent-cater-
pillar of our apple orchards.
IX. Destroying Insects.
The investigations of M. Prevost, acting for the French government, demon-
strated that those birds generally regarded as being insect-eaters, are not as a rule the
most beneficial to the farmer, but that for the most part, the birds which render the
greatest sei-vice are those against which the popular prejudices are strongest. Thus
the sparrows, the starling and crows are the great destroyers of the cockchafers, and
so our crows and black-birds are of the May-beetles, and we are finding that many
birds we have deemed to be our enemies are really our best friends. There is another
fact to be remembered also. That is: nearly all birds, during the period of repro-
duction, whatever may be their natural food at other times, are almost entirely insect-
eaters, and that they feed their young almost exclusively with insect food. Then the
amount of insect food a young bird will consume is enormous. Dr. Wyman took
from the crop of a young pigeon a mass of canker-worms that was more than twice
the weight of the bird itself.
Part VII.
FARM LAW AND ITS PRINCIPLES.
LEGAL FOKMS AND OBLIGATIONS.
AGEICULTUEAL LAW.
STOCK, GAME AND FENCE LAW.
SECUEING A HOMESTEAD.
HIEING HELP, ETC,
FARM LAW.
CHAPTER I.
PRINCIPLES IN RURAL LAW.
LAW GOVEEOTNG FARMERS' ANIMALS. II. LIABILITY FOR INJURY BY DOGS. III. TRESPASSING
UPON PROPERTY. IV. DIVISION FENCES. V. RAILWAY FENCES AND TRESPASS. VL RAIL-
WAYS RUNNING THROUGH FARMS. VII. PUBLIC ROADWAYS. ^VIII. THE RIGHTS OF THE PUBLIC
IN THE ROAD. IX. AVOIDING OBSTRUCTIONS IN THE ROAD. X. RIGHT OF WAY OVER LANDS OF
OTHERS. XI. LIABILITY OF THE FARMER FOR HIS SERVANTS. XII. RIGHTS RELATIVE TO
WATER AND DRAINAGE. XIII. LIABILITY OF DEALERS. XIV. HIRING HELP— SPECIFIC WAGES.
XV. WHAT IS A FARM? XVI. GETTING A FREE FARM. XYTI. THE PUBLIC LAND SYSTEM
XVIII. PRE-EMPTION, HOMESTEAD AND TIMBER-CULTURE ACTS. XIX. LAND TAKEN UNDER THE
THREE ACTS. XX. THE DESERT LAND ACT. XXI. LAND YET OPEN TO SETTLERS.
'\.:lm
I, Law Governing Farmers' Animals.
|HiS|HE principles governing the law of the various States in relation to animals may
^^ be stated as follows: The farmer is responsible for the good behavior of his
animals when beyond his care, and also for any injury or hurt done to persons
by animals belonging to him, and known to be vicious, even although the person
injured was a trespasser on the premises at the time. If you keep a vicious dog, and
he tears a person hunting in your fields, you are liable in damages. If a vicious bull,
ox or cow injures a person on your premises, you must pay the damage, even although
the sufferer may have been a boy stealing apples from your orchard — ^but the person
trespassing is also liable for his trespass. In fact, a person may be liable to more than
money damage if he put a vicious animal in an enclosure to injure any special person
who may have annoyed him by his trespasses across the field. A case is reported in
which the farmer had to pay $500, for two broken ribs received by another in this
way.
If an animal injures a person in the open highway, either by assault or by fright-
ening a horse so he shall run away, to the damage of the driver or occupants of a
carriage, the owner of such animal is liable. The owner -of a horse, was, in one case,
convicted of manslaughter, because having turned his horse out on the road, and some
children switching him, the animal kicked one of them, causing death.
II. Liability for Injury by Dogs.
We have already said that the owner of a. vicious dog is responsible for any
Injury the animal may do a person, even on his owner's grounds. If a dog, even in
refill
662
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
play, runs out into the street and frightens a horse or other animal so that he does
injury, the owner of the dog is liable. However good-natured a dog may be, if he
turns and bites children, who tease him, his owner is liable. The old English law held
that a man could have no ownership in a dog. This became the rule in some of our
States. The more enlightened rule now is that a dog is property, and to steal a dog
a crime. Hence, in some States, although a person may not be the owner of a dog,
merely harboring the animal renders the harborer liable for any damage the dog
may do.
In States where dogs are licensed, a dog not licensed may be killed " whenever
or wherever found." It is the law in some States, and should be everywhere, that
a dog licensed or not, if he attack a person, outside his owner's premises, may be
killed, but your neighbor's dog has the right to pass peaceably over your premises, and
you may not kill him simply for so doing. But if a dog is found beyond the enclosure
of his owner, worrying or killing farm animals, he may be killed. Again, a dog
may be killed if he haunt your premises, by day or night, to the disturbance of the
family, either by his noise or otherwise. It is unnecessary to give the authorities from
which these law-facts originally came. But by way of illustration, take the case of
the dog, snapping and biting a boy who struck at him, in 124 Massachusetts, 57;
and 38 Wisconsin, 300. The jury gave damages because they thought the boy
acted naturally, but in 65 Illinois, 235, if it had been a mature man instead of a
boy, damages would not have been given.
m. Trespassing Upon Property.
Hunters. — One of the most common mistakes of gunners, trappers, etc., is that
PRINCIPLES IN RURAL LAW. 663
Some persons post the notice — "Man-traps and spring-guns;" "Beware the dog,"
etc., on general principles, though the traps are imaginary and the dog innocent of
harm.
Neighbor's Fowls. — You may not shoot, nor lay poison for your neighbor's
fowls, which trespass and scratch up your garden, even though you return the fowls
back upon your neighbor's land. If they have been poisoned by you, and the neigh-
bor should eat them, it might go hard with you in court. So if you should injure a
boy caught stealing fruit, you would be liable for malicious mischief.
Injury to Stock. — You would be liable for damage to your neighbor's stock if
you threw dangerous substances, as glass, bits of wii-e, or other trash into his field, or
even deposited it in your own fence corners, and the fence being broken, the animal
was injured. For instance, a cow swallowed bits of a wire fence that the owner had
allowed to fall to pieces and get rusty. These pieces had fallen in a neighbor's field.
A jury decided that the owner of the wire must pay for the 'cow. The same rule
would follow from injury from trimmings of osage orange, or other substances
thrown in the road.
IV. Division Fences.
The primary object of fences is not to protect against the invasion of other
animals, but to keep in one's own. Yet, it is not lawful for you to put up a fence
except it be entirely on your own land. Hence, when a division fence is to be built,
if on the line, both persons join in building it, and it belongs jointly to them, and can-
not be removed except by the consent of both. There must be an agreement as to
which portion each person shall keep up.
Then, if the adjoining fence-owner does not do his duty, and your cattle walk
over his imperfect fence, he has no redress; but if they stray beyond your neighbor's,
upon the land of a third party, you are liable for the damage to that party, and even
if this third party had not a proper fence. If you turn your cattle into the highway
and they stray upon the property of another, even though he has no fence, yoli are
liable. You are equally responsible if persons straying through your fields let down
the bars or leave gates open by which your cattle do injury to the property of another.
But if one is carefully driving cattle along the road, and without the driver's fault
they break away and trespass, there is no liability if driven back as quickly as possible ;
for you have the right to drive your cattle along the road though you may not lawfully
turn them into it to shift for themselves.
V. Railway Fences and Trespass-
While it is the fact that by the common and general law, every man is bound to
restrain his stock from doing injury to another, the manner of restraint by a fence is
due to the statute. Hence, unless the statute clearly requires it, a man need not build
a fence if he has no stock to confine. In relation to fencing railways by the corpora-
tions, the character of the fence is defined by law. The general law requires the
664 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
company to maintain a suitable fence along the whole line. It does not mean that the
fence shall be the same along the whole line. It may be necessary that some portions
be better and stronger than others. It must be suitable.
If Stock is Killed. — Now, if the stock of a land owner adjacent gain access
to the track, by reason of the unsuitable character of the fence, and are injured or
killed, the company is responsible ; but if the animals stray from premises beyond,
and find their way to the track over this contiguous land, the railway company is
not liable for damages. Nor would the company be liable under the common law
for cattle straying along the public highway, without the care of their owner, if killed
by a passing train on a crossing.
VI. Railways Running Through Farms.
The conveyor of lands for a highway'does not lose ownership in the lands, except
as to its use for the purposes of a highway. Railway companies generally acquire simply
the right of way, and not the absolute ownership of the land. The reason of this is
that in the case of the abandonment of the highway, or the franchise of a railway
company, the land may revert to the one who sold it, or the person owning the original
tract at the time of the abandonment, unless it is expressly stipulated to the contrary.
But if a person gives an absolute deed, it, of course, would be binding. This should
never be done, under any circumstances, because the abandonment and sale of a strip,
might cause great damage to a farm, if resold to other parties, and the conveyance
for road purposes is sufficient for the railway or road commissioners.
The exclusive rights in the trees, and vegetation on the surface and the minerals
below belong to the conveyor, and not to the company who only hold the right of
way. And if a stranger take anything belonging to the soil proper therefrom, he is
liable, not to the railway company, but to the owner of the soil; but the owner of the
land does not therefore have the right, as against the company, to enter upon and
remove the turf, soil, or anything growing thereon, or to disturb the same without
the permission of the company, and the company have the right to cut down and
remove whatever may be within their line, if it may at any time interfere with their
use and operation of the road. No person has the right to take any property from
the line of a railway, nor make use of the same without the permission of the
company, and the person so doing, if it be personal property, is liable to the company
and not to the seller of the land.
VIT. Public Roadways.
Roadways are made for the use of the public. Their right is simply the right of
way or passage over the roads, by themselves, teams, vehicles, stock, etc. The road
officers may use the soil, gravel, etc., of a road for repairs, or for transportation
to some other portion of the road, but not for their own private use. The owner
of the land bordering on a road, owns the soil, trees, grass, or any valuable thing
on or under the surface. No man has any more right to remove anything therefrom,
PEINCIPLES IN RURAL LAW. 665
except the owner of the soil, or the properly constituted officer, than from any other
private property. Neither has any person a right to deposit and leave vehicles,
wood, timber or other property on the public road. If he does, the owner of the
adjacent land may remove them, and if injured or lost, the owner has no redress.
Stock may not be stopped to feed on the public highway. No person may hitch a
team in the highway, to the detriment of trees or other property. If he does, the
animal or animals may be removed. No one has the right to stand in the road to
abuse another, to throw missiles at your animals, without liability for trespass ; and
if obscene language is used, the person using it may be driven off even by force.
Fruit trees standing even in the road, belong to the owner of the adjacent land and
the fruit as well ; and a well standing partly in a field or yard, and partly in the road,
belongs exclusively to the owner of the land.
VIII. The Rights of the Public in the Road.
The road is for the convenience of the public at large. The owner of the adja-
cent land has no right to obstruct it. He can not use the road to deposit trash; can
not place any structure, even a pig-pen, thereon; nor leave any vehicle standing
thereon. If he does, even if not in the traveled path, and a person or animal runs
into them at night, and is injured, the owner is not only liable for the damage but for
obstructing the highway. The owner of adjacent land must place his fence entirely
outside the road, and not half over the line. Neither can he place terminal posts
half on his own and half on his neighbor's land unless he has liberty so to do. But
if the road is discontinued the land reverts to him, and he can enclose it again as a
part of his premises.
IX- Avoiding' Obstructions in the Road.
It is generally supposed that no person has the right to leave the road for any
purpose and pass over the adjacent land. There are, however, occasions when he
may do so. If deep snows have fallen, or the road is drifted so full that it is impas-
sable; if there is a washout that can not be passed, or if from any cause the road is
absolutely impassable, a traveler may have the right even to remove a fence and pass
over fields, to a point beyond the obstruction, and he is not liable for trespass. But
in doing this, he must be careful not to do unnecessary injury. For instance : A
fence maj^ not be broken down so as to injure it seriously ; it must be carefully taken
down. Hence it would not be safe to tear down a permanent wall or destroy a living
hedge.
X. Right of Way Over Lands of Others.
If a person be shut out from the public highway by the intervening lands of
another, he has the right to a private roadway, by the most practicable route, over
such intervening land to the public road. This right must be acquired by one of
three means:
6()(i THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
1. The right by continued use. To acquire this right, the roadway must have
been peaceably used for a period of fifteen or twenty years; that is, continuously or
regularly, and under a claim to this right of use ; but this right extends only to a
definite road and for the definite purpose of passing directly to and from the public
road. No person should attempt to acquire this right by use simply to avoid paying
a just compensation. To gain this right it is not necessary that one person should
have trk,veled, but successive owners, if there have been such within the prescibed
period. It is not peaceably used if done under protest, however long the use be con-
tinued; and the right, once acquired, if for a specific purpose, as hauling wood or
other commodity from another lot, the right ceases when this specific use no longer
continues.
2. If you sell all your land fronting the highway, retaining that lying away there-
from, you reserve the right to pass to and from your new home to the public road.
So, if you sell to another that portion away from the road, the law gives him the right
to cross your land to the road, if he be otherwise cut off. It makes no difference
whether the right of way is stipulated in the deed or not. Yet, it is proper in every
case to have the whole clearly stipulated.
3. The other way, and the proper one, is to buy your right of way, and no
sensible man would object to granting it in this way. The difficulty in this case gen-
erally arises in dissension as to the price. In such a case common sense and humanity
would dictate that no advantage be taken on either side — both should make all reason-
able concessions.
However the right to a private road may be acquired, you have no rights outside
the line of the road. The seller, in the absence of any stipulation to the contrary,
has the right to put in suitable gates, or bars, at the entrance and exit. And if the
bars are left down by the person who acquires the road, or by his family, servants or
visitors, he is liable for all damage resulting therefrom, either by himself, family,
servants, or visitors.
XI. Liability of the Farmer for His Servants.
The liability of the farmer for the acts of his worknden, is more onerous than is
generally supposed. It might not be thought that if a horse be driven by one's hired
man, and the horse cast a shoe, which flies and breaks a window, the owner of the
team would be liable; but it is true that he is liable. So you would have to pay for
the damage done by your team running away, if damage is done. It was a large bill
that a gentleman had to pay whose coachman allowed his team to run away and crush
through a plate glass window, and into a jewelry store filled with costly articles.
If you lend a servant a team, and -with it give him an order to execute, and he
gets drunk, or from other preventable cause allows the team to do injury, you are
liable. But if he borrows a team simply for his own pleasure and commits injury,
you are not liable. If your hired man injures himself through your negligence, you
are responsible to' him.
PRINCIPLES IN KURAL LAW. 667
If you, Or your hired man, by your orders, set fire to brush or trash on your own
field, and the fire damages another, you are liable. So you are if you set him to chop,
ping, and he accidentally chops down or into trees beyond your land line. In short
you are liable for any act of injury by your hired man in the performance of some-
thing you have set him to do. Therefore never hii'e a man who gets drunk, and to
set him a good example, never get drunk yourself. Under this head, however, the
line is so. closely drawn as to liability or not, that instead of depending upon general
rules, in most cases it is better to consult a lawyer."^
XII. Rights Relating to Water and Drainage.
There are certain cases where one person may flow another person's land, as in
the case of the mill owner, etc. It is a franchise that has been paid for. You may
do what you please with your water, so long as it does not flow back upon the land
of another. If it does, and the privilege has not been paid for, he may take down
so much of the dam as will relieve his land from the overflow. This flooding is
often done innocently, from ignorance of the extent to which the back-water will rise.
If a stream has become obstructed by drift-wood, etc., below, so that the water
backs upon your land, you may remove this natural obstruction, leaving the material
on the bank. This, however, does not apply to surface water accumulated by heavy
rains. But water is no longer surface-water after it has been gathered into a natural
or artificial channel. Surface-water originating on one's own land, the owner may
detain it if he can.
Against an overflow by floods, a person has the right to embank, even to the
detriment of his neighbor. His neighbor is at liberty to do the same, but it is not
permissible to place impediments in the bed of the stream, to the detriment of
another. Spring-water and underground water belongs to the soil. Your neighbor
may have a well fed by springs on your land. You may cut the source of these
springs and convey the water where you please. So long as it remains on your own
land he has no redress.
You have no right, to turn your drainage water onto your neighbor's land; but
the same rule works here as in the acquirement of private roadways.
XIII. Liability of Dealers.
The adulteration of every article of use or sale, and frauds in contracts, etc.,
are growing evils. So far as contracts are concerned, unless the farmer is able to
understand them, to be assured that they are correct, or cannot be separated into
parts for his discomfiture, he should have nothing to do with them without first
consulting his lawyer, to know that they are all right. Trust no stranger in any
event. Beware of lightning-rod peddlers, jockeys, and confidence men generally,
who want to make you rich in a trade. Sign no contracts for anything for future
delivery, unless the men are known to your bankers as solvent, and especially , sign
no paper that may have a double meaning.
668 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
The liability of a dealer will compel him to make good any deficiency. ' If you
buy grain or other seeds, of a given name, they must be true to name. If expressly
warranted pure and fresh, the dealer is not only liable for the purity of the seed, but
if they fail to grow, or turn out something else, the dealer is not only liable for the
value of the seeds, but for whatever loss the farmer or gardener may have suffered
from these causes. Seedsmen intend to be honest as a rule. They sometimes make
mistakes. If so, the innocent purchaser does not have to stand the 4oss, but the
seedsman or dealer.
XIV. Hiring Help.— Specific Wages.
If a man or woman is hired without specific agreement as to wages, he or she is
entitled to the current price of that particular labor. If a laborer hires for a specific
time, and quits before the expiration of that time, even though he may have been
hired at so much per month for that time, he cannot recover anyof the money from
the master. But if the farmer has paid him money on account from time to time, or
has given him a note or notes in lieu of money, the farmer cannot recover this. But
if the farmer voluntarily discharge the laborer, his wages must be paid.
If a laborer hire for a specific time at a fixed price and works, say until that
season when wages may be much higher per day or month than the price agreed on
per day or month for the whole time, and then quits, the master can recover this extra
amount for the remainder of the time, and the laborer can not set off the value of
the work already done. So if a man or firm be hired to do a specific work at a
specific price, as digging a well, building a wall or a house, and leaves it unfinished,
without good excuse, he is entitled to nothing.
If a laborer has good cause for refusing longer to work he may do so, and the
master must pay for the work actually done. Sickness of the laborer, a dangerous
epidemic in the family or neighborhood, improper treatment, bad food, etc., are valid
causes for quitting. If the laborer is arrested and imprisoned for crime, it is no bar
to his receiving pay for the work already done. As to what constitutes cause for
quitting, outside of those mentioned, and in fact when litigation settles the matter, it
must be determined by the jury. •
If another person entice your workman away before his legal time has expired,
you have recourse upon the person enticing the man. The law would hold that he
who interferes with another man's business must pay all the damage accruing from
the inconvenience, and if done maliciously this might add special damage; but one
person may offer inducements for a man to leave an employer where the person was
only working from day to day, or when his time had expired.
XV. What is a Farm?
A FARM is any considerable piece of land, described, by metes and bounds, by
monuments, blazed and distinctly marked trees, government or other surveyor's
stakes, properly recorded. The extent of a farm is determined by the length of the
PRINCIPLES IN RURAL LAW. 669
boundary lines, by visible objects or those that may be found, and those visible mon-
uments, trees, rocks, stakes or stones, naturally or artificially placed. These control
all other agents. When described by metes and bounds, the number of acres wrongly
stated in the deed, would give no cause for redress, even though they were far less
than stated i^ the deed, or even though the seller fraudulently overstated the number
of acres.
In buying a farm, if the seller overstate, even fraudulently, how much grass it will
carry, how much stock it will pasture, or how much wood it will go to the acre, the
buyer has no redress. But if, with a view to selling, he should fraudulently state that
the farm had produced a specific quantity of any article in a year, knowing it to be
false, he would be liable to an action at law, so very closp is the line drawn between
mere talk and actionable talk.
A man may have a farm to-day and none to-morrow. If a stream carry away
a part of or all of his farm, the loss lies with himself, although he may know where
his farm is deposited. It thereafter belongs to the man fortunate enough to acquire
the accretion, so long as it remains.
When a farm is bounded by a stream, the owner's right goes to the middle of
the, current, not always to the middle of the water. This should be remembered in
determining what islands in a stream belong to one or to his opposite neighbor. If
the land is bounded by a large lake, navigable river, bay or gulf, his rights extend
only to low water mark. Farther, his rights are merely those common to all. But
in tide waters, there may be flats; in this case it will depend upon his deed in its
accuracj'' whether he owns to high or low water mark.
If a boundary line runs to a specific object, as a tree, rock, fence, etc., it runs
to the middle of the object, unless specifically stated otherwise. If so, examine the
record, to know that the next man actually owns up to your line ; in fact, in buying
any piece of property in which a deed, or other contract passes, it is well for your
lawyer to pass on its merits. As a rule, the fee for such a service will be well
invested.
XVI. Getting a Free Farm.
All public lands are virtually open to free settlement, the fees under the Home-
stead, Timber Culture and Desert Land Acts being light. At public land sales
the price ranges from one dollar and twenty-five cents to one dollar and fifty
cents per acre, but the best of these lands are always gobbled up by railways
and syndicates, and they often wrongfully dispossess the poor settler. But this
need not be if the man knows his rights and asserts them. Formerly pre-emption was
the only means of acquiring title by actual settlement. Then the settler had to prove
title and also pay one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre when the land was placed in
the market. It is still a favorite means by which speculators secure water privileges, and
valuable tracts of timber land, by means of fraudulent aflSdavits. They also pre-empt
water fronts under the Desert act, and often by armed mob-force drive off actual
670 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
settlers. Colonies of actual settlers may command respect from these pirates by
organized force.
XVII. The Public Land System.
A COMPLETE and condensed compilation of the principal means by which public
lands may be secured, brought down to the year 1883, is given below. To get a clear
understanding of this it must be remembered that the public lands are surveyed into a
series of lines of townships running north and south, each township consisting of
thirty-six sections of 640 acres, or one square mile, each. The area of a township is,
therefore, 23,040 acres. Each line of townships is called a range, the ranges being
numbered from east to west, and the townships north and south. Each section is
divided into quarters of 160 acres each, and these again divided into quarters of forty
acres each. The public lands are divided into two great classes, the minimum price
of one class being one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, and of the other
two dollars and fifty cents per acre. The latter class consists mainly of alternate
sections reserved by the Government in land-grants to railroads. Public lands are
not now placed in the market subject to purchase for cash, the general policy of
the Government being to hold the lands for actual settlement only. The principal
laws under which titles can be perfected are the "Homestead," "Pre-emption," and
"Timber-culture" acts.
XVIII. Pre-emption, Homestead and Timber-Culture Acts.
ft
Under the Pre-emption law the settler must pay the Government price for the
land. The maximum amount of each grant is 160 acres. To secure this the claimant
must first become a resident of the land — by claim-shanty or otherwise — and within
three months after settlement must file a declaratory statement of the facts at the
nearest land oflice. For this filing he pays tw.o dollars. He must reside on the land for at
least six months, and within thirty-three months from the date of settlement he must sub-
mit final proof of actual residence and improvement, and pay for the land — two dollars
and fifty cents or one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre, according to class. Any
time before the thirty-three months expire the settler may convert his claim into a
homestead by payment of the homestead fees.
The Homestead Law. — Under the homestead law any citizen or intending
citizen of either sex, over the age of twenty-one, single or the head of a family, may
obtain 160 acres of public land free by five years' actual settlement and residence
thereon. The only payments the settler is required to make are the land office,
patent, and commission fees, amounting altogether to about twenty-six dollars, of
which sum eighteen dollars is paid at the time of entry and eight dollars at the end of
five 3'^ears when the title is perfected. Until last year the settler was allowed only
eighty acres of the two-and-a-half dollars land, or land within the railroad limit, but
the law has been so amended that 160 acres can now be secured. Soldiers and sailors
who sei-ved during the war are allowed to deduct the time of such service — not exceed-
ing four years — from the five years' residence required before completion of title —
PRINCIPLES IN RURAL LAW. 671
a privilege which extends to widows or minor orphan children of all those who if alive
could claim this allowance. After six months' actual residence and cultivation, the
settler has power to prove up and purchase the land at the Government price, instead
of residing thereon the remaining four and one-half years required to complete his title.
This is what is known as commuting an entry. Under this act, therefore, any man,
however poor, may become the owner of a farm of 160 acres for twenty-six dollars —
a farm which at the end of five years should be worth at least $1,000. Special pro-
vision has been made for people who have been unfortunate in business, or burdened
with debt, who wish to start anew, this act expressly providing that " no lands ob-
tained under the provisions of this chapter shall in any event ' become liable to the
satisfaction of any debts contracted prior to the issuing of the patent therefor."
According to recent rulings under this law a man and woman, each having a home-
stead entry, may pool their rights by marrying without invalidating either claim.
Lands entered under this law are exempt from taxation until title has been completed.
One persotj cannot relinquish a claim to another; relinquished lands revert to the
Government. A single woman's rights are unaffected by marriage — so far as this act
is concerned — provided the requirements of the law are complied with. A married
woman making an entry, who has been deserted by her husband, will, upon final
proof, receive the patent in her own name, notwithstanding the husband's return.
The Timber- Culture Act. — Under the timber-culture act actual residence is
not required, and the same amount — 160 acres — can be secured. The party making
an entry is required to break or plow at least five acres the first year and five more
the second year. The first five acres are to be cultivated during the second year, and
planted with timber seeds or cuttings during the third year. The second five acres
are to be cultivated the third year, and similarly planted the fourth year. Not less than
2,700 trees, seeds or cuttings must be planted on each acre, and at the time of final
proof there shall be growing not less than 675 living and thrifty trees to each of the
ten acres. A tree crop, if destroyed one year, must be replanted the next. At the
expiration of eight years from entry, final proof can be made and patent obtained.
The fees are fourteen dollars at time of entry and four dollars at final proof. This
land is exempt from taxation or execution^for eight years.
XIX. Land Taken Under the Three Acts.
Under these three acts, any qualified applicant may obtain 480 acres of land at a
nominal cost. A person cannot file under the homestead and pre-emption laws at the
same time, actual residence being necessary in each case, but is at liberty to enter a
pre-emption and tree-culture claim together, and after proving up on the pre-emption
by six months residence or longer, may take a homestead, and thereby get possession
of the 480 acres within a year of his first settlement. Every son and daughter over
twenty-one can do the same. A pre-emption settler may mortgage his land to pay
the government price for it. A pre-emption claim cannot follow a homestead and
tree-culture claim, as persons already holding 320 acres of land are barred from
672 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
the privileges of the pre-emption act. Where the government alone is concerned, the
laws will be liberally construed; where adverse rights are involved, a strict construc-
tion of the statutes is necessary.
XX. The Desert Land Act.
Theee is, however, another land act, under which large areas have been some-
times taken, and actual settlers ousted through terrorism. It was intended to be
benelicent, and might be so under proper restrictions. This act is applicable to all
lands, exclusive of timber and mineral lands, which will not produce an agricultural
crop without irrigation. This act is taken advantage of principally in the far West
Territories, where there are large areas of arid land requiring irrigation to make them
productive. Under this act, a person may obtain one section — 640 acres — of desert
land at $1.25 per acre by three years' irrigation — twenty-five cents per acre to be paid
at time of entry, and the remainder of one dollar per acre on final proof at the end
of three years. Actual residence is not required.
Under these laws, an immense number of fraudulent land entries have been, and
are being made, the Land-0fl5ce Commissioner being comparatively powerless to en-
force the law or investigate complaints. The work of the General Land-Office being
limited by the size of the Congressional appropriations, it has been found impossible
to inquire into a tithe of the alleged frauds, and the groundwork for a great structure
of future litigation is now being laid out. Great quantities of valuable coal and iron
lands, forests of timber, and the available agricultural lands in whole regions of graz-
ing country have been monopolized by persons who have caused fraudulent pre-emp-
tion and commuted homestead entries to be made by their agents and employes, and
the commissioner, in his latest report, states his inability to stop this, owing to the
limited facilities of the land-office. He strongly recommends the repeal of the pre-
emption law, on the ground that it is being largely made a shield for fraudulent
entries, and that the passage of the homestead law leaves it unnecessary. Formerly,
the pre-emption system afforded the only means by which settlers could acquire title
to homes on the public domain, but, with the passage of the homestead act and the
recent supplemental legislation, which placed homesteaders on an equal footing with
pre-emptors the special utility of the pre-emption law for bona-fide settlers has wholly
ceased.
XXI. Lands Yet Open to Settlement.
The bulk of the land yet open to settlement, is either mountain land, desert
land, or the vast areas in the far Northwest, including Alaska, much of it inhos-
pitable for cultivation. Alaska alone comprises about 370,000,000 acres. The tide
of immigration is now setting into Dakota, Minnesota and the farther valley lands of
the Northwest. Dakota alone contains 150,000 square miles (a square mile contams
640 acres), two-thirds of which is unsurveyed, and with much desert land and moun-
tain land at the West. The word desert lands with us means land requiring irrigation,
but often naturally producing grass. The Northwest mountain valley lands are also
PRINCIPLES IN RUKAL LAW. 673
of vast extent. Government surveys are progressing at the rate of about 50,000,000
acres per annum, or nearly 1,000,000 acres per week. The total area of public lands
surveyed in the several States and Territories from the commencement of surveying
operations by the Government until the end of the fiscal year 1882 was 831,725,863
acres. The estimated area unsurveyed is about 983,000,000 acres, figures too vast
to be appreciable except by comparison.
CHAPTEE II.
LAWS RELATING TO AGRICULTURE.
I. NEEDED EEFOEMS IN FAEM LAWS. II. LAWS THAT EVERY PABJIEE SHOULD KNOW. lU. FISH
AND GAME LAWS. IV. GAME LAWS IN OLD AND NEW STATES. V. LAWS RELATING TO DOGS
71. STOCK AND ESTEAY LAWS. VII. STOCK LAWS OF THE NEW ENGLAND STATES. VIII. STOCK
LAWS OF THE MIDDLE STATES. IX. STOCK LAWS OP THE SOUTHERN STATES. X. STOCK LAWS
OF THE WESTEEN STATES. — -XI. STATE LAWS EELATING TO FENCES. XII. FENCE LAWS IN
GENERAL. XIU. FENCE LAWS IN NEW ENGLAND. XIV. FENCE LAWS IN THE MIDDLE STATES.
XV. FENCE LAWS IN THE SOUTH. XVL FENCE LAWS IN THE WESTEEN STATES XVIL
FENCE LAWS OF THE PACIFIC SLOPE.
I. Needed Reforms in Farm Law.
|HE laws relating to agriculture, taking agriculture in its broad sense, form no
..i^ small part of the general statutes of a nation. The day is probably not far
^ij''" distant when the people will demand a simplification of our laws generally, by
which unnecessary verbiage may be expunged: 1, That they may be simplified
to conform to fundamental principles, so that any man of average comprehension may
understand the nature of any particular law. 2, To do away with the practice of
brow-beating, intimidation, and badgering of witnesses, by which they are made to
say what they do not mean ; and to simplify pleadings, by which facts only shall be
kept in view. It is true that such is the general purpose of law, and under the rulings
of the judge, much that we have mentioned as desirable may be accomplished ; but
cannot always be done even if the judge desires. So many abuses have crept into our
courts that the covering up of facts, and special pleas of counsel on either side, often
so befog a jury that, notwithstanding the charge of the judge, they often find it im-
possible to eliminate from their minds that which has speciously been instilled by the
pleaders. The more carefully trained mind could not follow and retain speech after
speech, each one of a week's duration, presenting the most diverse arguments for and
against, and sift the true from the false.
II. Laws that Every Parmer Should Know.
In relation to law, in its connection with some departments of rural affairs, we
can only be expected to generalize. The laws relating to birds, game, stock, dogs,
fences and roads will receive special attention. Much of this matter has been made
easy to us through the labor of Hon. J. E. Dodge, for many years, and now, the
Statistician of the Department of Agriculture at Washington. To bring the whole
matter clearly together, we present them, by States, so far as we have been able to
collect them, and under their separate and distinctive heads. It must be understood
[674]
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XV. Agreements Between Landlord and Tenant.
LANDLORD'S AGREEMENT:
This certifies that I have let and rented, this day of 18—, unto John Doe [here describe
premises and where situated], and all appurtenances; he to have the free and uninterrupted occupation
thereof for one year from this date, at the yearly rental of dollars, to be paid monthly in advance;
rent to cease if destroyed, by fire, or otherwise made untenantable.
KiCIIARD EOB.
THE TENANT'S AGREEMENT.
This certifies that I have hired and taken from Eichard Eoe, his [describe the premises], with
appiu'tenances thereto belonging, for one year, , to commence this daj-, at a yearly rental of [state
amount], to be paid monthly iu advance, unless said house becomes untenantable from fu-e or other
causes, in which case rent ceases ; and I further agree to give and yield said premises one year from
this — day of 18 — , in as good condition as now, ordinary wear and damage by the elements excepted.
Given under my hand this day. John Doe.
NOTICE. TO QUIT.
To EiCHAED Eoe:
Sir: — Please observe that the term of , for which the house and land, situated at [descrilae the
premises], and now occupied by you, were rented to you, expired on the day of 18 — . As I
desire to repossess said premises, you are hereby requested and required to vacate the same.
Yom-s truly, John Doe.
St. Louis, Mo., Jan. 1, 1880.
(Three months' notice is usually given.)
tenant's notice of quitting.
Dear Sir: — The premises I now occupy as your tenant, at [state locality], I shall vacate on the
day of 18 — . You will lolease take notice accordingly.
Dated this day of 18—. Eichard Eoe.
To John Doe.
If payment of rent is refused, the landlord gives notice for surrender, and states
the reason.
XVI. ■Wills.
Wills may be drawn up by any person if properly witnessed. When the
property is to be equitably divided between the wife and children no will is neces-
sary. Intricate wills should always be drawn by a competent lawyer. The following
is a short form of will, to be varied according to circumstances:
FORM OF will.
Know all Men by These Presents, That I, , of the town of , in the county of ,
and State of , being of sound mind and memory, do make and publish this my last will and
testament.
I give and bequeath to my sons [give their names], [state the bequest], each, if they have attained
the age of [state the age-], before my decease; but if they shall be under the age of at my
decease then I give to them each, the last-mentioned sum to be in place of the first-mentioned.
I give and bequeath to my daughters [state the names and add the bequests.]
I give and bequeath to my beloved wife , all my household furniture, and all the rest of my
personal property, after paying from the same the several legacies already named, to be hers forever ;
but if there should not be at my decease sufficient personal property to pay the aforesaid legacies, then
so mrich of my real estate shall be sold as will raise sufficient money to pay the same.
714 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
I also give, devise and bequeath to my beloved wife , all the rest and residue of my real
.estate, as long as she shall remain unmarried, and my widow; but on her decease or man-iage, the
remainder thereof I give and devise to my said children and their heirs, respectively, to be divided
in equal shares among them.
I do nominate and appoint my beloved wife , to be the sole executrix [or name the executor] of
this my last will and testament, hereby revoking all my former wills.
In Testimony Whereof, I hereunto set my hand and seal, and publish and decree this to be my
last will and testament, in presence of the witnesses named below, this day of , in the year of
our Lord one thousand eight hundred and .
[Name of maker of will.] [l. s.]
Signed, sealed, declared and published by the said as and for his last will and testament, in
presence of us, who, at his request and in his presence, and in presence of each other, have subscribed
our names as witnesses hereto.
, residing at , in county.
, residing at , in county.
Codicils. — A codicil to a will may be made later. The following would be the
form:
Whereas I, , of the of in the county of and State of , have made ray last
will and testament in writing, bearing date the day of , in the year of our Lord one thousand
eight hundred and , in and by which I have given and bequeathed to [here state the bequests, and
also the changes to be made, signing and having the codicil witnessed as in the will.]
XVII. Power of Attorney.
A POWER of attorney is always best — as in the case of other important docu-
ments — drawn by a good lawyer ; but we give the forms of various documents that
the reader may be conversant therewith. A short form is as follows:
Know all Men by These Presents, That I, , of , in the county of , and State
of , have made, constituted and appointed, and by these presents do make, constitute and appoint
, of , my tiue and lawful attorney, for me, and in my name, place and stead, and to my use,
[here insert exact subject-matter of the power], and to do and perform all necessaiy acts in the execu-
tion and prosecution of the aforesaid business in as full and ample a manner as I might do if I were
personally present.
In Witness Whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, the day of in the year
one thousand eight hundred and
, [Signature of the maker.]
Signed, sealed and delivered "I
in presence of J
[Signature of witness.]
If the attorney-in-fact is to have power of substitution and revocation, then, at
the end, after the words personally present, add the words:
"With full power of substitution and revocation, hereby ratifying and confirming all that my said
attorney, or his substitute, shall lawfully do, or cause to be done, by virtue hereof."
Then sign and witness as above
What Powers of Attorney are for. — 1. To collect rents, debts, etc.,
receive dividends, legacies, etc.
2. Transfer or sell anything.
3. To mortgage land, renew leases, and to act generally in the place of the
person granting the power.
LAW FOEMS RELATING TO BUSINESS TRANSACTIONS. 715
XVIII. Mortgage— Short Form.
This Indenture, made the day of in the year one thousand eight hundi-ed and
between , of , in the county of , and State of , manufacturer, of the first part,
and , of , in^the said county, farmer, of the second part, WITNESSETH, that the said party of
the first part, for and in consideration of the sum of dollars, grants, bargains, sells and confirms
unto the said party of the second-part, and to his heirs and assigns, all [here insert full description of
the property] ; together with all and singular, the hereditaments and appurtenances thereunto belonging,
or in any wise appertaining. This conveyance is intended as a mortgage, to secure the payment of
the sum of dollars, in [here state terms of payment], according to the condition of a certain bondi
dated this day, and executed by the said party of the first part to the said party of the second part;
and these presents shall be void if such payments be made. But in case default shall be made in the
payment of the principal or interest, as above provided, then the partj' of the second part, his execu-
tors, administrators and assigns, are hereby empowered to sell the premises above described, with all
and every of the appurtenances, or any part thereof, in the manner prescribed by law; and out of the
money arising from such sale, to retain the said principal and interest, together with the costs and
charges of making such sale; and the overplus, if any there be, shall be paid by the party making such
sale, on demand, to the party of the first part, his heirs or assigns.
In Witness Wheejeof, the said party [or parties] of the first part has [or have] hereunto set his
hand and seal [or their hands and seals], the day and year first above written.
Signed, sealed and delivered \ - [Signature and seal.]
in the presence of /
[Signature of witness.]
A mortgage must be not only witnessed, but acknowledged like any other deed,
and recorded.
Assignment. — A mortgage may be assigned, as follows:
I hereby assign the above [or within] mortgage to
Witness mt Hand and Seal, this of^
[Signature. 1 [Seal.]
Release. — It may be released, thus :
I hereby release the above [or within] mortgage.
Witness my Hand and Seal, this day of
[Signature.] [Seal ]
Foreclosure. — The proceedings by default, and sale by mortgage, must be in
accordance with the laws of the State in which it is executed.
Mortgages are given for various purposes ; as security for payments, for debts,
notes, the fulfillment of leases, etc. They should state explicitly what they are for.
XIX. Warranty Deeds.
A Warranty Deed is an important document, and should, as a rule, be drawn
by a lawyer. Printed forms are used for various conditions specified.
SHORT FORM OF WARRANTY DEED.
Know all Men by These Presents, That I, , of , in the county of and State of
-, in consideration of dollars, to me paid by , of , in the countj^ of , and State
of , the receipt whereof is acknowledged, do grant, bargain, sell and confirm unto the said-
his heirs and assigns, forever, all \_here insert descnption'], with the appurtenances. And I do, for myself
and my heirs, executors and administrators, covenant Avith the said , his heirs and assigns, that at
the time of making this conveyance I am well seized of the premises, as of a good and indefeasable.
estate, in fee-simple, and have good right to bargain and sell the same, as aforesaid, and that the same
71(5 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
are free from all encumbrance whatsoever ; and the ahove-granted premises, in the quiet and peaceable
possession of the said , and his heu-s and assigns, I will warrant and forever defend.
In witness vi'HEEEOr, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, the day of , in the year one
thousand eight hundred and
Signed, sealed and delivered in presence of 1 ISignature and seal.']
[ Signature of witness . ] J
Erasures, etc. — If erasures or interlineations are made, these must be explained
in a document attached to the deed, and then as follows :
In witness whereof, the said party of the first part has hereunto set his hand and seal, the day
and year fu-st above written. ISignature and seal.}
Sealed and delivered in the presence of (the word , on the page,
was er.ased, the words written over an erasure ; on the page,
the words interlined in — ;-places, and the word canceled on the
page, before .) [Signature of witness.}
For instance, a specified number of acres may be changed to more or less, or
added after acres, etc.
XX. Bills of Sale.
These are given for almost every description of property. A short form is as
follows :
I, John Doe, of , in consideration of dollars paid by Eichard Koe, of , hereby sell
and convey to said Richard Boe the following personal property, [schedule of articles], warranted
against adverse claims.
Witness my hand this day of A. D. 18-:—
[Signature.] [Seal.]
Executed and delivered in presence of
XXI. Bonds.
These are given for various purposes, as a condition to convey land or other
property. They may be given with sureties ; that is, certain persons named in the
bond become sureties with the principal or principals. Or a bond may be given for
the payment of a lost note or other obligation. If so, the conditions must be ex-
plicitly stated ; and the sum named should be double that named in the condition
at the bottom before the signature. A general form of bond may be as follows:
FORM OF BOND.
Know ali Men bt These Presents, that I, John Doe, of , in the county of , am held
and firmly bound to Richard Eoe, of , in the county of , in the sum of dollars, to be paid to
the said Richard Roe, to the payment whereof I bind myself and mj' heirs firmly by these presents.
Sealed with my seal.
Dated the day of A. D. 18—
The condition of this obligation is such, that if I, the said John Doe, shall pay to said Richard Roe,
the sum of dollars and interest, on or before the day of , 18 — , then this obligation shall be
void.
John Doe.
Executed and delivered in presence of
LAW FORMS RELATING TO BUSINESS TRANSACTIONS. 717
XXII. Arbitration.
This is a means of settling disputes with or without legal advice, rather than
litigate in the courts. It is specially to be commended as being peaceable and in-
volving comparatively little expense. The usual way is to submit the question or
claim, if simple, to a single person, chosen by the parties ; or, if more complicated,
each of the parties chooses an arbitrator, and they a third person or umpire. The
decision may be oral, but is better written, and made in important matters returnable
to some court.
The arbitrators constitute a tribunal and exercise final jui-isdiction between the
parties, and are not bound by legal rules in the admission or exclusion of testimony,
unless so stated in the agreement of submission. They are guided by their judgment
as to what evidence will assist them in arriving at a just conclusion, not only as to
the awards, but also as to costs to be recovered, from one or the other party, or to be
divided between them. The statutes usually authorize this and the agreement of sub-
mission should do the same. The form of submission may be as follows :
FORM OP SUBMISSION. -
Know all men, that we -, of , and , of — — , do hereby promise and agree, to and
with each other, to submit, and do hereby submit, all questions and claims between us \it there is a
specific question or claim describe it], to the arbitrament and determination of [here insert the name of
the arbitrators], whose decision and award shall be final, binding, and conclusive on us; [if there are
more arbitrators than one, and it is intended that they may choose an umpire, add] : and, in case of disa-
greement between the said arbitrators, they may choose an umpire, whose award shall be final and
conclusive [or if there be three arbitrators chosen to act together add r and, in case of disagreement,
the decision and award of a majority of said arbitrators shall be final and conclusive.
In witness wiiEKEOP, have hereunto subscribed these presents, this day of , one
thousand eight hundred and .
In presence of [Signatures, j
Arbitrators' Oath. — It is proper that an oath be administered to the arbitra-
tors to faithfully and justly decide the question or questions at issue. This may be
administered by a justice of the peace or by a judge of a court of record.
XXIII. Award of Arbitrators.
The following is the form of award. When only one person is chosen, only his
name should appear, as, for instance, I, John Doe:
To ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME : We , to whom were Submitted, as arbitrators,
the matters in controversy existing between as by the condition of their respective bonds of sub-
mission, executed by the said parties respectively, each unto the other, and bearing date the day of
, one thousand eight hundred and more fully appears.
Now. THEEEPORE, KNOW YE, that We , the arbitrators mentioned in the said bonds, having
been first duly sworn according to law, and h.aving heard the proofs and allegations of the parties, and
examined the matter in controversy by them submitted, do make this award in writing; that is to say,
the said shall on or before the day of next ensuing the date hereof [here insert the award
made or whatever is to be performed.]
And also, the said arbitrators do hereby further award, that all actions depending between the said
and for any matters arising or happening before their entering into said bonds of arbitra-
718 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
tion, shall from henceforth cease and determine, and be no further prosecuted or proceeded in by them
or either of them, and that neither party recover costs against the other.
Finally, said arbitrators do further award, that the said and shall, within the space of
daj's next after the date of this award, execute, each to the other, mutual releases of all actions and
causes of action, suits, debts, damages, accounts and demands whatsoever.
In WIT^fESS whereof, have hereunto subscribed these presents, this day of , one
thousand eight hundred and
In presence of [Signatures.]
XXIV. Counterfeit Money.
The art of detecting counterfeit money is not easily acquired, and it is especially
difficult to impart it to others by means of writing. The first rule to observe is to
become well acquainted with all the characteristics of good money.
Greenback Paper. — The. paper on which the government prints its bills is of
superior quality. Its texture is firm and strong; it feels smooth and solid to the
touch. Counterfeiters make every effort to produce paper that resembles the genuine,
but never succeed, so that an expert can almost invariably tell a good bill from a bad
one by the touch alone. The U. S. Treasury notes of 1862 and 1863, and the old
issues of National Bank notes halving the red pointed seal, are printed on plain paper.
All U. S. Treasury notes of 1869 to 1879 and National Bank notes having the scal-
loped seal are printed on paper which has silk or jute fiber interwoven all through it.
Notes issued since 1880 are printed on fiber paper having a red and blue silk thread
running lengthwise of the bill near the top and bottom. The fiber paper has not been
successfully imitated. Attempts have been made to imitate it by pasting fiber on the
surface or by marking lines resembling it with peii and ink, but these methods do not
deceive a close observer.
The Ink. — The next important point to study is the ink used in printing the red
and blue numbers and the seals. That on genuine bills is of superior quality, and
remains bright and clear so long as the bill lasts. Counterfeiters have not been able
to produce inks like those used by the government, and the numbers and seals on
every counterfeit are inferior in color and printing. The whole apjpearance of good
bills of every denomination should be carefully studied.
The Pace of a Friend. — One should know the face of a bill as he knows the
face of a friend. It would be no easy matter for a person resembling another to
make you believe he actually was that other person. Just so with counterfeit bills.
If you once know the genuine, the counterfeit cannot deceive you. The engraving
of pictdres and letters on the bill should be closely studied. On genuine bills it is
perfect ; the lines are even and straight.
The Engraving. — On counterfeits it is usually scratchy and irregular, though
not alwaj'^s. Some counterfeit plates are engraved by expert workmen, who have no
superior. The lathe work which surrounds the large numbers, and is found on the
back of bills, should also be carefully examined. This is made from a die engraved
by a machine that never produces the same design more than once. The government
itself could not produce a duplicate. The counterfeiter has to imitate the design by
LAW FORMS KELATING TO BUSINESS TRANSACTIONS. 719
hand, which, owing to its intricate pattern, is next to impossible. There are numer-
ous special points by which certain bills are detected, but it does not come within the
scope of this work to enumerate them. Those who want full information on the
subject should subscribe to a good counterfeit detector.
Spurious Coin. — As there is a large amount of spurious coin in circulation, it
is proper to refer briefly to some of the points that distinguish good from bad. Gold
and silver possess a clear ring which distinguish them from the inferior metals. A
person with a good ear for distinguishing sounds can usually detect a counterfeit by
its ring alone, or rather by its lack of ring. The metals used in counterfeit coin are
relatively lighter than gold and silver, and any one who has a good sense of touch can
detect a counterfeit by its light weight and by a certain soapy feeling entirely differ-
ent from the genuine. The outlines of devices on the coin are not usually so distinct
and sharp in the counterfeit as in the genuine. Close observation is the best teacher.
Compare a counterfeit piece of money, whether paper or coin, with a good piece of
the same denomination, and the points of difference will be readily detected.
XXV. Good Business Maxims.
Every man is the architect of his own fortune.
Caution is the father of security.
Never boast of your success.
Speak well of honorable competitors ; of dishonorable ones say nothing.
Systematize your business, and keep an eye on expenses. Small leaks sink large
ships.
Never fail to take a receipt for money paid, and insist on giving a receipt for
money received.
Keep copies of all important letters.
Be prompt in all things.
Avoid going to law.
Apply the golden rule to your business transactions, and you can't go far astray.
Josh Billings remarks : "I like to see a fellow practice his religion when he
measures corn, as well as when he hollers Glory Hallelujah."
XXVI. Some Points on Business Law.
Ignorance of the law excuses no one.
It is a fraud to conceal a fraud.
The law compels no one to do impossibilities.
An agreement without consideration is void.
Signatures made with lead pencil are good in law.
A receipt for money paid is not legally conclusive.
The acts of one partner bind all others.
Each partner individually is responsible for the whole amount of the debts of the
firm.
720 THE HOJIE AXD FAEM MANU.\L.
Contracts made on Sunday cannot be enforced. ,
Contracts for advertisements in Sunday papers are invalid.
A note drawn on Sunday is void.
A contract made with a minor is void.
A contract made with a lunatic is void.
Principals are responsible for the acts of their agents.
Agents are responsible to their principals.
A note obtained by fraud, or from a person in a state of intoxication, cannot be
collected.
If a note be lost or stolen, it does not release the maker; he must pay it.
An endorser of a note is exempt from liability, if not served with notice of pro-
test with the least possible delay.
There are, of course, exceptions to the above-mentioned general rules, which
special cases may develop.
XXVII. Deflnitions of Mercantile Terms.
Acceptance. — The written agreement to pay a draft according to'its terms.
Account. — The systematic arrangement of debits and credits under the name of a
person, species of property or cause.
Assets. — Resources; available means.
Balance. — A term used to note the difference between the two sides of an account,
or the sum necessary to make the account balance.
Bill. — The general name for a statement in writing, used in a variety of ways
Bills Receivable. — Written obligations or promises to pay money due the concern.
Bills Payable .—The concern's written promises to pay.
Capital. — Investment in business.
Days of Orace. — The time allowed by law and custom between the written date
of maturity of a note or draft and the date upon which it must be paid.
Discount. — Consideration allowed for the payment of a debt before due.
Draft. — An order for the payment of money.
Drawee. — The person on whom a draft is drawn.
Drawer. — The person who draws the draft.
Exchange. — The fundamental principle of trade. Paper by which debts are
paid without the transmission of money. Premium and discount arising from the
purchase and sale of funds.
Favor. — The polite term for a letter received. A note or draft is in favor of
the person to whom it is to be paid.
Honor. — To accept or pay when due.
Indorse. — To subscribe to a thing; to write one's name across the back of a note
or draft.
Interest. — Compensation for the use of money.
Invoice. — A bill of goods bought or sold.
LAAV rOKMS EELATING TO BUSINESS TRANSACTIONS.
721
Ledger. — The chief book of accounts.
Liability. — A debt or claim against a person.
Maturity. — The date on which a note or draft falls due.
Maximum. — The highest price or rate.
Minimum. — The lowest price or rate.
Net. — That which remains after a certain reduction.
Net Proceeds. — The amount due a consignor after deducting charges attending
sales.
Note. — An incidental remark made for the purpose of explanation. A written
obligation to pay money.
Par. — ^Equal in value.
Principal.— An employer. The head of a commercial house. The amount
loaned on. which interest accrues.
Protest. — The formal notice that a note or draft was not paid when due, or that
the acceptance of a draft was refused.
/Stock. — Capital in trade. The title given to the pi'operty of a business.
/Surety. — Indemnity against loss. A person bound for the performance of a
contract by another.
Tender. — An offer for acceptance. A legal tender is an offer of such money as
the law prescribes.
Usury. — Illegal interest.
Voucher. — A written evidence of an act performed.
XXVIII. Business Characters.
(a) at.
7"
account,
per cent,
one and ^
one and }4
one and 3/
^ number.
+ sign of addition.
— sign of subtraction.
X sign of multiplication,
-f- sign of division.
^ sign of equality.
46
Part VIII.
HOUSEHOLD ART AISTD TASTE.
BEAUTIFYING THE HOME.
DRESS AND TOILET ART.
THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM.
RULES FOR THE PRESERVATION OF HEALTH.
REMEDIES AND PREVENTIVES OF DISEASE.
COOKING FOR THE SICK, ETC., ETC.
HOUSEHOLD ART AND TASTE.
CHAPTER I.
HOUSEHOLD ART AND TASTE.
I. BEAUTIFYING THE HOME. II. FURNISHING THE HOUSE. III. THE PABLOB FURNITURE. IV.
THE DINING-ROOM. V. THE KITCHEN. VI. THE BED-ROOMS. VII. THE CELLAR. VUl. THE
WATER SUPPLY. IX. SOFT-VTATER CISTERNS. X. LAYING DOWN CARPETS. XI. PAINTING
AND KALSOMINING. XII. ARRANGEMENT OF FURNITURE. XIII. HOUSE CLEANING XIV.
SWEEPING AND DUSTING— RE N 0\'ATIXG C.VRPETS.
I. Beautifying the Home.
^MpHEN a man builds a house his first duty, after the family is comfortably settled,
should be to make the surroundings pleasant. In the smallest village lot there
is room for decoration. The walks should be graded and made firm and dry;
the garden laid but and planted, vines shrubs and the necessary shade trees
planted. There may not be room for shade within the inclosure, but trees should
always be set next the street as soon as the house is built, unless finished too late in the
[725]
726 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
spring. In that case the tree planting should be done the next autumn or in the
following spring. Do not forget to plant a few flowers : Pseonia, bleeding heart,
bellflower, larkspur, French honeysuckle and phlox are hardy, herbaceous peren-
nials. The lihes, hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, narcissus, etc., are hardy bulbs. Train
the common honeysuckle, the woodbine, any of the hardy climbing roses, or the
ampelopsis over the porch or along the veranda. The hardy shrubs for the lawn are
without number. In a previous chapter we have given a list of valuable fruit-trees
and shrubs, as well as annual and perennial plants for the farm, orchard and garden.
There is nothing that will so endear their home to the children, and make them love
it, as the Hght labor of assisting to keep it trim and fair.
n. Furnishing the House.
The furniture of the house should correspond with the condition of the owner.
Tawdriness must always be avoided. Do not try to ape some one wealthier than
yourself, by buying cheap, flashy garniture. Plain, substantial furniture for those in
moderate circumstances will look better and command more respect than cheap
display. Study harmony. Never furnish a house by buying inferior, second-hand
furniture or hangings, if it can be avoided. Especially let all bed-room furniture
and bedding be new. Second-hand pictui'es, if good, are admissible. The first wear
of everything else is generally the best.
Carpets and Bedding. — Never buy a flimsy carpet at any price. Do without
until good ones can be purchased. If you can buy a good Brussels, with the pile
dense and close, it will last a generation with proper care. In bedding, start with
new, clean, honest material. Never let any young person sleep on a feather bed; it
will cause undue heat, weaken the action of the skin, and cause those who lie in it to
become susceptible to cold, besides other, more serious, evils of over-heating. If the
bed or bedding be narrow, the occupant will not rest well, because proper movement
cannot be made.
Use the same careful discrimination in the selection of all furniture that you
would in any other matter. Have less, if necessary, but have that good, rather than
crowd the rooms with inferior material. It is easier to add to a small number of good
articles than suffer the annoyance of mistakes in over-furnishing with cheap stuff.
Hygiene of Bedding. — The system, so prevalent in America, of sleeping on
feathers, and of placing two or more in a bed together, cannot be too strongly con-
demned. Healthy children, and all others not invalids, should sleep on hard mat-
tresses, of which the best are made from curled horse-hair. These are, however,
expensive, and many good substitutes may be bought; one of the best of these is the
clean wood-fiber, called excelsior. Have springs, or woven wire, under beds if you
choose: never feathers, except for very elderly people, who have grown too used to
them to change. Never let a grown-up person, and, above all, never let an old person
or an invalid, sleep with a child ; it will destroy the child's vitality. So far as possi-
ble, give to each member of the family a bed. Not only is this better for the general
HOUSEHOLD ART AND TASTE
727
health, but often, in case of illness, prevents contagion. Avoid stoves, especially coal
stoves, in sleeping-rooms. If a light is needed, never use a turned-down kerosene
lamp, for its fumes are injurious. Use hard beds, ventilate by open fires or, other-
wise, and cover well with coarse woolen bed-clothes, and half the illness in the family
will disappear.
III. The Parlor Furniture.
The parlor, like every other room in the house, should be furnished for wear.
No sensible person furnishes a parlor to be shut up and remain unused, except upon
great occasions. It is the place for the family to gather in when leisure allows, and not
a place to be opened only when " Mx's. Grundy" calls. Hence, the furniture must
be bought with an eye to use.
GLASS CASE FOB HOUSE-PLANTS.
The Pictures. — The pictures, whether oil, water-color, good chromos, prints or
photographs, should correspond to the condition of the owner. A few really good
engravings or paintings are better than any number of cheap ones. If you already
have these, paper or kalsomine the walls to correspond. If there are engravings,
composition .frames, or those of walnut, rosewood or bird's-eye maple with gilt
moldings, will be appropriate. There is no better place to study effect than in a
well-arranged picture gallery, yet how few persons visit one of these for this purpose.
728
THE HOME AXD FAEM MANUAL.
You may also there get some good lessons in hanging, with reference to light, etc.
If the room is low, hang on nails behind the pictures, so the wire or cord is not seen.
The Curtains. — Curtains are pleasant things to have in every window of the
house. They temper the light, keep out cold drafts, prevent the direct rays of the
sun from entering when not wanted, and should be of material to correspond with the
other furniture of the room.
The Parlor Carpet. — The parlor should, of course, have the best carpet in the
house. In rooms of ordifiary size avoid large figures. They cause a carpet to cut to
waste and make the room look small. Also, avoid glaring colors. That so many
such carpets are made shows that taste in the masses needs cultivating. The manu-
facturers are not to blame. They simply cater to the demands of the public.
House-Plants, etc. — Flowers and plants are in order everywhere, inside the .
house and out. The parlor, however, unless it be the living-room also, is not the
place for their cultivation. We do not believe in dark parlors, yet in these rooms
there is hardly sun enough admitted for the best
growth of plants. Place such as may be easily
moved in nice vases, and use them when in their
best condition to ornament the room ; those kept
in wardian and other glass covered cases will also
do well. The illustration of Glass Case for House-
plants on page 727, shows a pretty design that
may be kept in the living-room, and is easily
moved from one room to another as may be
desired. Ferns are admirable ; none are prettier,
in a collection, than the walking fern, shown
on opposite page. Ferns will not bear the sun
nor live in a dry atmosphere. For house culti-
vation they are usually kept in glass cases. An
aquarium is pretty anywhere; especially so in.
AQUARIUM. .(.j^g dining-room. All these we have mentioned
may, with proper care, be freely rolled along a carpet from one room to another.
IV. The Dining-Room.
The dining-room requires little furniture, but that should be good and as hand-
some as you can afford. Stuffed furniture is out of place here, even if the dining-
room is also used as a living-room. A sideboard, with proper conveniences, should be
had if possible. The carpet ought to be bright rather than dark, and correspond to
the other furniture, and the pictures in harmony with the surroundings. Here ao-ain
the skill of the housewife may be used to have the proper closets for china and table
ware convenient. In these days of inexpensive and excellent plated ware, a very
little money, comparatively speaking, will add largely to the comfort and economy of
HOUSEHOLD ART AND TASTE. 729
the table serrice. Do not overdo the matter, though here and in the kitchen one may
WALKIXG FERNS.
be pardoned any reasonable expense that will add to the real comfort of the family.
PINEAPPLE AND FRUIT. '" CASE OF FERNS.
What Taste raay do. — The dining-room is an excellent place to display taste,
730
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
and this is especially the case if it be also used as the living-room. Let some of the
pictures be suggestive of good living, game-birds, fish, fruit pieces, etc. An aqua-
rium, plants, etc., as described in the section relating to the parlor, will also be
appropriate for the dining-room. In the South, fruits not quite hardy enough for
growing out of doors may be used. Among a collection we once saw was a grow-
ino- pineapple as a dining-room decoration, removed from the greenhouse.
If one has a greenhouse many beautiful things may be grown for temporary
removal to the dining-room ; if not, some of the fruit-bearing house-plants may be
used; such, for example, as Solanum or Jerusalem cherries. Among table decora-
tions bouquets of flowers, or at the least some green thing, always suggest refinement.
The fern case shown is appropriate for this purpose. The dining-room should be
WINDOW-PIANTS IN DrNTNG-ROOM.
well lighted and cheerful, especially so when also used as the living-room, Break the
glare of the sun, when necessary, with curtains. The illustration of Window-plants
in Dining-room shows a pretty effect. To produce this costs little besides the neces-
sary care of the plants, which may be made a labor of love as well as an educator to
the children.
v. The Kitchen.
This is the most important room in every house of moderate expense, if not in all
houses. The furniture should be ample and of the best manufacture consistent with
the means of the owner. All kettles, stew and sauce pans should be of good tinned
ware, or of stone or other silicate finish. Granite and other enamel coatings are now
made so cheaply that they sogn pay their cost in the ease of cleaning. The sink should
be ample; the stove provided with a hot-water apparatus, the pantry and other
HOUSEHOLD ART AND TASTE.
731
closets easy of access. Let the floor be of hard wood, and covered Avith a good oil-
cloth, if you can afford it, or, if not, well painted ; rugs may be used in places where
the work usually stands, for a woman's feet should not be in constant pressure either
on oil-cloth or upon the bare floor. Here again the good sense of the mistress of the
house may be shown in furnishing, both with a view to comfort and for the economy
of work.
If servants are employed, they must be instructed in the proper care of the
kitchen utensils, or there will be much waste from breakage or misuse. Hence, the
necessity that the mistress fully understand how things should be done. If she must
do the work herself, it will be a pleasure to be able to do it deftly and neatly ; for
light-handed neatness is the crowning glory of housekeeping.
TUB FILTER.
TOWEL BACK.
Every kitchen should be provided with a filter for water, especially where rain-
water is used for drinking, as is the case in many districts. The cut of Tub Filter
shows a home-made affair, but as good as the best where ice forms a part of the filter
over the straining cloth and under the dust cloth or cover. A towel rack is also indis-
pensable. The one shown in the cut needs no explanation; any man can make it.
VI. The Bed-Rooms.
NovsTHERE can better taste be displayed than in the sleeping apartments. As to
carpets, every housekeeper must decide for herself. We should prefer a painted floor,
and rugs so laid that the occupant would have no occasion to step on the wood after
the shoes are removed. The rugs can be taken out in the sun, shaken and aired
while the floor is mopped clean. Carpets in bed-rooms are unknown on the Continent
of Europe in the grandest of private houses, and in such rooms, are traps for dust,
germs of disease and death.
The furniture, however rich, should always be simple, and of solid material,
to avoid dust and dirt, and be readily cleaned. The old-fashioned carpets and bed-
curtains should be avoided. If possible, have in the bed-room only the bed, a rug
and a few chairs; dress and undress in an adjoining room, which may be made as
732 THE HOME AST) FARM BIAIvUAL.
pretty as possible and kept much "warmer in winter than the one which is used for
sleeping in. In this dressing-room place the wardrobe, chest of drawers, pretty odds
and ends, as well as the wash-hand stand and other such conveniences. This, too, is
improved by a bright and pretty carpet, pictures and other wall decorations ; the bed-
room must have none of these. They on!}' hold germs of disease, and dirt.
VII. TheCeUar.
Even the smallest cottage should contain this important adjunct, if the nature of
the soil will, or can be made to admit of proper drainage therefrom. The arrange-
ment of the -cellar is no less important. It should be fairly lighted, and be divided
off into proper rooms according to the size of the house. In the smallest cottage the
vegetable cellar should be separated from the rest, and proper ventilation should be
looked to, else the odor will certainly reach every part of the house above. In large
houses the laundry often occupies a portion of the cellar. If so, it should be pro-
vided with conveniences for hot and cold water, perfect ventilation, stationary tubs,
with means for draining off wash-water, a sink and other fixtures.
VIII. The "Water Supply.
EvEEY farm-house — where there is a windmill for raising water — should have the
necessary tanks for soft water for the house. These tanks may be in the barn or on
other suitable elevations, from which the water may be conducted in pipes provided
with faucets. In laying the pipes the greatest care should be taken that they are no-
where within reach of frost. If they are they become a source of constant annoyance
in winter, and often of considerable damage to the building. Architects more often
fail in providing against damage from frost than in any other respect. Plumbers are
never mindful in this matter. They simply do their work according to the plan
given. See, therefore, that no water pipes run next the outer wall of the building;
that they are always where they can easil}' be gotten at, and, as an extra precaution,
that they are always encased in some non-conducting material when there is any
danger from frost; and, also, that in very cold weather a small flow may escape from
the discharge-pipe connecting with all, during the night, so a constant current may
be kept up. The supply-pipe should be brought, underground, well beneath the frost
line, to the center of the cellar beneath the house. A wooden box, of boards not
less than one foot wide, should receive the pipe at the depth of about two feet under
the cellar floor and conduct it to the story above. This box must have the pipe in
its center and the space between be packed in sawdust. In northern climates the pipe
must extend to no room not kept warm in winter. It is better to do without it than
have it freeze and break.
IX. Soft-Water Cisterns.
Cisterns for rain-water should always be placed where they Mill not freeze.
This is especially necessary where they are built of brick or stone and cement, for we
suppose no one nowadays M'ill consent to have a cistern plastered up directly on the
HOUSEHOLD AKT AND TASTE.
733
earth or clay. It is cheap, and it is as worthless as it is cheap. In some localities,
drinking-water is so difficult to obtain, that cisterns which collect the rain-water
furnish the only supply. In this case, the cistern should be in two parts with a filter
between. When it is built in this way, and the water comes from clean roofs, the
water, though insipid, is pure 'and healthful. The living water of wells is, however,
better in every respect, but no well-water is entirely safe, unless means have been
taken to keep out surface drainage, and they are liable to be contaminated by the
seepage, from sewers, the out-houses or the barnyard.
The danger from this latter cause is much greater than many people suppose.
The earth is always honey-combed with the borings of insects and small animals,
which always carry their burrows to the nearest water, generally the well. Seepage
once entering these cavities inevitably finds its way to the well. Unfortunately, the
most deadly germs are often not to be detected by the taste or smell. For this
reason, many persons prefer cistern water to that from the well. When danger is
suspected from wells, the water should always be boiled. No filtering will take out
the deadly germs. Indeed, half the disease of the world would be avoided if all
the water drunk was first boiled.
X. Laying Down Carpets.
Laying down the carpets is a task always dreaded by women. In fact, no
heavy carpet should ever be undertaken by them. That it is a man's work always,
may be easily discovered by anybody who
has laid one. For this reason, in cities, the
merchant who sells, undertakes to cut, fit
and lay the carpet. In the country this is
not always possible. With expensive car-
pets it will always be better to employ
some one who thoroughly understands the
art. An implement for stretching the car-
pet is always convenient and often indis-
pensable.
First of all, the carpet must be cut into
suitable lengths for the room, allowing for
the proper matching of the breadths. It is
then sewn together, breadth upon breadth,
until the proper width is obtained. Then
tack it down upon two sides, one way with
the length and the other across the breadth,
It must be cut and fitted to inequalities, when
necessary, and if a bay window is to be carpeted, this must be allowed for in cutting.
The other two sides are then tacked down, the stretching always being- carefully
attended to, so that when finished, it will lie perfectly flat and without wrinkles.
OAEPET STEETGHEK.
being careful to stretch all equally.
734
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAJL.
XI. Painting and Kalsomining.
It is always better, if you can afford it, to hire both painting and kalsomining
done b}' competent mechanics. If you do this, a perfect understanding must be had
that the material shall be of the best, and that it shall not be dropped about the floors
and over the furniture. There is no reason whatever why a person who understands
his business should mess up a house with either paint or kalsoiiiine. No person who
takes little enough on the brush at a time of properly mixed material, need make a
slop. If a dirty wall is to be kalsomined, never allow the size or first coat to be put
on until the wall has been washed. This is done with a large sponge dipped in warm
water, and pressed until nearly dry. This will wash off the dirt without dripping.
With good brushes any one can soon learn to kalsomine, and to do common painting.
A mistake, too often made, is not mixing at first enough material of the required
color to do the whole work. If you keep mixing a little at a time you never have
KALSOMINE BRUSH.
your walls of a uniform tint. So far as paints are concerned, they may be bought
ready mixed and of any color. Graining and ornamental painting should never be
attempted by ai inexpert. In this case the very best workmen are always the
cheapest.
W Jlite washing. — ^Whitewash of hme is now seldom used for covering inside
walls. There is no reason why it should not be. If properly made, it covers a
surface almost as smoothly as the chalk of which kalsomine is composed, and is devoid
of the disagreeable smell thereof. For covering rough buildings, fences, and other
structures, where paint would be too costly, it is excellent, and, if properly made, is
fairly water-proof, and may be applied by any one of ordinary intelligence and care.
In order, however, that it may saturate the surface and hold, it should be put on hot,
for which purpose the vessel containing it may be kept over a good-sized kerosene
lamp or a low fire of charcoal.
Recipe for Whitewash. — One of the best washes we have ever used is made
thus : To so much water as will fill a barrel to the depth of two inches add one-half
HOUSEHOLD ART AND TASTE. 735
bushel of pure, white quick-lime; then put in one peck of salt, previously dissolved
in hot water ; cover tightly to keep in the steam ; when cold, strain through a fine
sieve ; heat it again and then add, hot, a thin starch paste made from three pounds of
rice flour; stir; add one pound, hot, of strong glue; add half-pound of whiting,
previously dissolved in hot water; dilute with hot water to consistency of cream;
apply hot.
The glue is first soaked, then gradually dissolved in water, by placing the vessel
holding it in another containing boiling water ; used as directed, this is the most per-
manent wash we know of. About a pint of the mixture will cover a square yard of
surface.
Colored Washes. — To make the above a cream-color, add yellow ochre until
the desired shade is reached. For fawn-color, add four pounds of umber to one pound
of lampblack. For gray or. stone-color, four pounds of raw umber to two pounds of
lampblack. Add to the whitewash until the desired shade is reached. To determine
the color it must be seen dry, and not damp. Hence, when trying the color, let it
dry to observe the tint.
XII. Arrangement of Furniture.
The arrangement of furniture may make pleasant or mar the appearance of a
room. Primness and precision should be avoided. If the chairs are set carefully
against the wall at equal distances, if the sofa looks as though it had never been sat
upon, if the center-table has a touch-me-not appearance, the general effect of the
room will chill the visitor. The appearance of the room should be that of one used
daily. The drapery about the windows should not be such as to shut out the light,
but simply to tone down the glare. If the carpet is good, a fair amount of light will
not hurt it, and a room that is always closed and dark, except when "company"
comes, is sure to be musty, uncomfortable and unhealthful. If you cannot study out
effects yourself, call in the aid of some one who has an eye for effect, and can pro-
duce like ones without copying. Observe effects in other houses, on take the advice
of your upholsterer, always reserving to yourself the casting vote, as to how much
you can afford to spend upon any particular room or object.
XIII. House-Cleaning.
In house-cleaning you will save yourself and family much inconvenience, by not
undertaking too much at onoe. Clean one room or one set of rooms at a time, and
observe order in so doing. If your house is to be kalsomiued or papered, this should
be done first. House-cleaning is a time of severe labor, and any arrangement that
will lighten the labor should be observed. Thus, the carpets may be taken up to be
cleaned by the men, who may also kalsomine the walls. This will materially lighten
the labor of the women. Many housewives prefer to hire extra labor, and this is
decidedly the better way.
736
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
XIV. Sweeping and Dusting.— Renovating Carpets.
Carpets should be brushed over at least once a day, and thoroughly swept ODce
a week, when every movable piece of furniture should be moved. These should be
thoroughly wiped or dusted every time the broom is used. If the carpet becomes
dingy, it should be wiped with a damp sponge, and dried with clean flannel cloths.
If there are grease-spots, they may be taken out by thoroughly pounding and mixing
together equal parts of magnesia and fuller's earth. Make this into a paste with
boiling water, lay it over the grease-spot, hot, and by the following day it will have
absorbed the grease ; it may then be scraped and brushed off. If, unfortunately,
grease or ojl has been spilled on the carpet, it should be taken out, if possible,
before that is again swept. Ordinary stains may usually be removed with lemon-
juice or dilute oxalic acid.
:!ieE^
FLOOE BRUSH.
Not every person knows how to sweep clean without raising a great dust. If in
sweeping you carry the broom, in its stroke, beyond you, it will inevitably make
dust from the spring of the fibers of the broom. The spent tea-leaves should always
be saved moist and scattered over the carpet for the regular sweepings, or salt should
be strewn over the carpet. The strokes of the broom should be short, firm, and each
should end when the broom has been drawn nearly up to a line with the person.
Corners and the sides of the room should receive especial attention. As a preventive
of dust a good carpet sweeper is valuable, but the movable furniture must be taken
out to do good work, and the corners and edges cleaned with the broom, brush and
dust-pan.
CHAPTEE II.
THE PARLOR AND LIBRARY.
I. THE ROOMS FOR COMPANY. 11. GUESTS OF THE HOUSE. ^III. ETIQUETTE OP THE PARLOR. ^IV.
ENTERTAINING VISITORS AND GUESTS. ^V. DAILY DUTIES NOT INTERRUPTED BY GUESTS VI.
GOING TO BED. VII. SERVANTS AND PARLOR SERVICE. ^VIII. DUTY TO CHILDREN. IX. WHAT
CONSTITUTES VULGARITY. X. PARLOR DECORATION. 3.1. DECORATION NOT NECESSARILY
COSTLY. XU. A ROCKING CHAIR. XIII. A PRACTICAL FAMILY. XIV. INGENIOUS AND USE-
FUL.
I. The Rooms for Company.
Parlor. — The apartment where guests are received may be one of the
parlors, the reception-room, or the library, supposing the house to be large
enough to contain all these. In England a distinction is made between the
parlor and the drawing-room. In city houses, the parlor (^f rom parloir, a place
to speak in) is on the ground floor, and used as a reception-room and place to
transact business, while the drawing-room (or withdrawing-room, as it was formerly
called) is on the first floor, up one flight of stairs, and used more ceremoniously. In
the United States we use the two words with the same meaning, as our houses have
no such division. In large houses there are often two or more parlors, and the mis-
tress of the establishment has, on the bed-room floor, what is called her boudoir, a
private parlor for the reception of intimate, and, usually, female friends; as the study
is, for men who have no office, the private room of the master of the house.
The Library. — The library should be solidly furnished, and contain, besides
the bookcases, writing table and desk, easy chairs, lounges, sofas, etc. The books
may be kept either in movable cases or those built permanently into the walls.
In smaller houses the parlor may serve also as a library, and often the " living-
room " has to do duty as parlor, library and sitting-room.
II. Guests of the House.
It is the duty of the host and hostess to receive guests cordially and make them
feel "at home." The tact of the individual must teach how to do this properly.
It comes of the usage that can only be learned' by contact with polite people. Eules
cannot be laid down. They must be learned by observation. It is in perfect accord-
ance with good taste among people of small means that the master, mistress or chil-
dren of the household perform all the offices necessary to the comfort of guests,
including those of the table. If there are servants, well and good. If not, such
service is only that of a friend to friends.
III. Etiquette of the Parlor.
Etiquette has been said to be the code of unwritten laws that governs the man-
ners of people living in polite society. All society is " polite," whatever the station
47 [7371
738 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
in life, provided good breeding is observed. Good breeding is the exhi-
bition of gentleness, deference, suavity of manner, thoughtful ness, generosity, modesty
and self-respect. Ease and cordiality, without freedom of manner, mark the gen-
tleman or lady; freedom without ease, the vulgarian. If you receive a letter of intro-
duction by a postman, acknowledge it immediately or call upon the stranger. If the
person introduced brings it in person, receive the gentleman or lady courteously, and
if a continuation of the acquaintance is desirable, give an invitation for another day,
upon leave-taking.
All must exercise their own discretion as to introductions. In small parties, the
guests are, as a rule, introduced to each person separately. In large gatherings not.
IV. Entertaining Visitors and Guests.
Visitors are entertained by the ordinary gossip of the day, matters of loca.
interest, society news, fashions, music, art, articles of taste, paintings, prints, poetry,
and the general literature of the day. To entertain well, both parties should be well
conversant with some of these. Gentlemen are interested in horses, fine stock, hunt-
ing, fishing,' litei'ature, art, science, and the out-door sports. The particular tastes of
the visitor or guest being discovered, the drift into these channels is easy enough.
In this, the visitor or guest should also come to understand the taste of the host and
hostess, and then all comes easy enough.
V. Daily Duties not Interrupted by Guests.
On the farm there are always routine duties that must occupy the attention of
the host. Guests should be careful never to intrude upon these, and the host and
hostess as carefnl, while attending to all necessary duties of the farm and household,
to give as much time to guests as possible. No sensible person will ever make a long
visit at a time of pressure of business. There are, however, many farmers whose
leisure is ample at all times, and M'ho keep servants enough to attend to all household
duties, supervision only being necessary. With the majority, however, there is at
most seasons, an absolute necessity for daily labor. Yet there are few who cannot
entertain visitors during some part of the day, or find time to receive guests, and yet
neglect no necessary labor. The guest who cannot at such times entertain him or
her self, and even assist, had far better stay at home. The guest who has the happy
faculty of keeping out of the way at proper times, and of doing service at others,
M'e have never yet seen unwelcome in the farm household.
VI. Going to Bed.
Not every person knows when to go to bed, nor when to get up. In the country,
hours are necessarily early. The great charm is the early summer morning. To
enjoy this, we must see the sun rise, and to be up early enough to do this, one should
be in bed by nine o'clock at night. The routine duties of the farm make these hours
imperative upon the host and hostess, if working farmers, and country life should
require their observance by all in summer.
THE PARLOR AND LIBRARY. 739
Once a guest has been shown to his chamber, courtesy would require that the
service should not be daily performed. Yet, many like to continue chatting after
leaving the parlor. Ladies, especially, find pleasant amusement with each other in a
short bed-room talk over the events of the day and plans for the morrow.
VII. Servants and Parlor Service.
When there are sei-vants, the routine work must be performed by them. It is
their duty to see that everything is done at the proper time. The parlors, library and
dining-room are to be aired, swept and dusted before the family appear in the morn-
ing, and guests should sci'upulously avoid being present at such times. Among the
services to be performed is carrying hot or cold water to the guest chambers, attend-
ing to their occupants, and lighting these to bed at night, or, at least, bringing in the
necessary candles to the parlor or bed-rooms and lighting them. In the winter, care
should be taken that the bed-chambers are properly heated. In a country where fuel
is so cheap as in the United States, there is at least no possible reason why a person
should be obliged to undress or dress in a frozen room. There is neither economy
nor wisdom in it.
VIII. Duty to Children.
Children should be early instructed in the ordinary amenities of life. At their
time of life impressions are easily received and become a part of their character as
men and women. Politeness and decorum in the parlor, dining-room or library costs
nothing, and are as necessary when the parlor, dining-room and kitchen are one and
the same room, as in more extensive houses. In this country we have no caste, and
the child of the poorest parents may be called to the highest positions. If they are
taught habits of cleanliness, decorum, and gentleness of manner, when young, it will
cling to them through life, and go far to keep them out of bad company when they
grow up. It gives habits of self-respect, and deters them alike from seeking bad
company and from foolish or criminal expenditui'es. Children should by no means
be curtailed of enjoyment. On the contrary, they should be given full liberty to
indulge in innocent pleasures, guided by habits of self-restraint and self-reliance.
They should feel they may always ffeely go to their parents for advice and sympathy.
Thus they will come to regard home as the most pleasant place. They will naturally
avoid rough and vulgar companions, and seldom, if ever, care for vicious or vulgar
pastimes.
IX. What Constitutes Vulgarity.
In general terms that is vulgar which is not in accordance with the usage of
refined society. Loud laughter or loud conversation in public places is vulgar. Not
to pay the pi-oper deference to each other is vulgar. Not to assist a woman in any
difficulty is not only vulgar but positively brutal. Not to apologize to any person
whom you may accidentally jostle in a thoroughfare, especially if roughly, is vulgar
and causes the action to be brutal. To refuse to accept an apology under like circum-
stances is vulgar. It is vulgar not to show self-respect. Arrogance is equally vulgar.
740
THE HOME AND FAEil MANUAL.
In fact, a dictionary of vulgar actions would fill a volume, and yet few persons are
so lost to self-respect that they do not have a prick of conscience at a vulgar action,
at least until their consciences are seared, or unless their education has been neglected
at home. For conscience, although inherent in human nature, may be as much
improved by education as any other faculty.
X. Parlor Decorations.
The furniture and decoration of the parlor should be as rich as you can afford.
In any event the room should have an air of light and cheerfulness. Both it and the
library should be comfortable, home-hke rooms. Avoid glaring colors or cheap
finery. Never buy stiff " sets " of furniture and never crowd your rooms with
trash. The handsomest effects are often produced where each piece of furniture has
been bought when wanted or it was convenient to do so. Let there be comfortable
easy chairs and sofas, and always some chairs light enough to be easily lifted and
moved. The wall-paper should be rich and generally light-colored, but of no pro-
nounced pattern. Wooden mantels are handsome and often costly. If of marble these
may be white or clouded. The wood-work should be light, unless rich dark woods
are used, and the door-plates to match. Where the heating is by a stove, it may be
steel, bronze or ormolu, and the fixtures for lighting the ajjartment at night should
match. A chandelier makes a pretty center-piece for the ceiling, or if the room is
long and large, two or more.
XI. Decoration Not Necessarily Costly.
The parlor must be, to be pretty, the room lived in. Never have a room too fine
for yourself and your children to pass the evening in. It is part of the education of
the latter to be in daily, familiar
contact with the pretty house-
hold decorations that are always
found in such rooms, when oc-
cupied by persons of taste, and
an ordinary faculty of feminine
ingenuity. We have seen bet-
ter-kept and more healthy
plants, in such a room where
the family did the labor, and
a prettier arrangement of
them, than we ever saw in
households where the care was
left entirely to servants. One
case in particular we recall. A
large oriel window like that
AN OEiEL WINDOW. ^^^^^ .^ ^j^^ illustration made
one side of the room. The carpet was a good ingrain, in pretty figured squares.
THE PARLOR AND LIBRARY.
741
There was not a costly piece of furniture in the room, and yet it had an air of com-
fort and of refinement that is within the reach of all.
Another room we remember where there was no bay window, was made fully as
handsome, by the arrangement shown in the illustration of Living-room Window.
The projection is inside, not out, and
yet the effect is as pleasing, as unique ;
serving, not only to hold and protect
the plants, but adding to and ornament-
ing the room. Except the ordinary
furniture and the prints, everything.
THE LIVING-ROOM WINDOW.
DRAGON-LIKE ORNAMENT.
including the frames for the pictures,
had been made by the members of the
household. The chair covers and the
back of the lounge were made of patch-
work, resembling embroidery, which is
named applique.
Some of the individual figures were grotesque enough, as for instance, a
dragon with bat-like wings, came near the present fashionable rage for Japanese
ornamentation. The backs of the chairs were covered in designs something like that
in the illustration of Chair Cover, or rather, ornamented by pieces like those fastened
to the back, for the cut really represents what the ladies call a tidy.
XII. A Rocking-Chair.
The rocking-chair deserves more than a passing notice, for it is " mother's
chair," and made for her especial use. The boys, let us suppose, having reseated
and cushioned the old rocker, the girls covered it. The seat and back were cushioned
with hair, covered with soft grayish material. Then Turkish toweling was cut some-
what larger, to allow for fold and nailing. The figures were cut from dark cloth, and
appliqued to this foundation with zephyr worsted, the fringe and tassels made of
ravelings of the toweling colored red. The cross-stitch at the edges was worked with
the same color. The dragon rampant was considered especially appropriate, since the
grandfather had once been a sailor to the " China Seas."
742
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
XIII. A Practical Family.
The old grandfather had reason to be proud of his descendants. There were
three boys and three girls, and each " wonderful for something," as the old gentle-
DESIGN FOE CHATR COVER.
THE DRAGON CHAHl.
man expressed it. Dolly and Tom engineered the chair and other work of like
kind, Aleck was good in carpentry work, and Sarah in designing. The Work-box
and Seat was made by Aleck, Dolly and Sarah ; the designs and fittings being by
Sarah, and the embroidery by Dolly, of course, while Aleck made the frame. The
WORK-BOX AND SEAT.
SCISSORS CASE.
appliques were of velvet, caught down with a button-hole stitch of silk, and the
embroidery in a large loose stitch, but delicately rendered.
THE PAELOR AND LIBRARY.
743
Sarah was the "author," as Tom called it, of all the " cute fixtures." The
Scissors Case was her work, of course. Tom was a genius in his way — a maker of
A PLANT CASE.
rustic work and a florist helper to Anna, the artist.' The Plant Case was the joint
work of Tom and Anna.
A PLANT FUMIGATOE.
PLANT-CASE BOTTOM
It is well known that many plants, as ferns, orchids, etc., do best in a close,
moist atmosphere; at least they will not thrive in a dry or changeable one, and so
744
THE HOME AND FARM MAJS^UAL.
Tom promised, when he went away from home, that some day they should have a
better case than the one originally improvised. In time it came, and with it the
plants to fill it. The stand was of mahogany, lined with zinc and strengthened with
brass. The top was of brass and French glass ; the panels were painted by Anna.
Now, plants cannot be kept healthy at all times in a room without occasional
fumigation to destroy insects. Perhaps you would like to see their fumigator. Simple
enough, is it not, as shown in the illustration? A muslin cover draped over a wire
frame, a little tin box, if you like, for the burning tobacco, a tube leading under the
cloth and another tube for blowing to keep up combustion and drive out the smoke.
XIV. Ingenious and Useful.
While on the subject of simple things, here is another of Sarah's ingenious con-
trivances, a water-cooler.
MOSS WATER-COOLER.
SARAH'S WHAT-NOT.
ALECK'S QUttTIXG FRAME.
A porous (unglazed) vase was bought and moss was fastened about it as shown.
The water, percolating through the pores, helped to keep the moss damp, cooled
the water, and, when much evaporation and consequent coolness were wanted, the
vase was set in a draft of air. The family have ice now, and the old water-cooler is
now a living vase. It is kept full of water, and various small seeds are sown among
THE PAELOR AND LIBRARY. 745
the moss, which is held in place with fine silvered wire. Garden cress and various
ornamental grasses are pretty growing in this way.
A modification of the Wardian case may be had by getting a stand of terra cotta,
putting a x'im inside, within which a glass shade is set. Inside the shade are mosses,
lycopodiums and ferns ; and between the two rims a living fringe of foliage may
be had with a little care ; for, the rim being kept filled with water, cut flowers may be
maintained there as shown in the illustration of Plant-case Bottom.
Sarah's What-not was a light affair, but heavy enough for the light articles it was
to hold. It was made of card-board, small figured gilt wall-paper, velvet bordering,
picture-frame cord and tassels.
Aleck's Quilting Frame must also be described : The legs, d dd d, were of hard
wood, one and one-quarter inch thick, three inches wide and three and one-half feet
long; the bar, c, was two and one-half inches "eight square;" the rollers, a a,
to which the quilt is attached, two and one-half inches "eight square,' with a strip of
cloth on one side on which to fasten the quilt, the rollers passing through the legs
at 1111; the cross-pieces, b b, were twenty-seven inches long, of inch stuff mor-
tised at each end, which held the quilt stretched. These slipped on and off, and
when not in use the frame could be folded up and put away. It has on more
than one occasion been made to serve as a cot.
CHAPTER in.
THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS SERVICE.
I. DINING-ROOM FURNITURE AND DECOEATION. II. TABLE ETIQUETTE. III. CARVING AT TABLE.
IV. CARVING FOUR-FOOTED GAME. V. CARVING BIRDS AND FOWLS. VI.. CARVING FISH.
VII. THE SERVICE OF THE TABLE. VIII. SOME DISHES FOR EPICURES. IX. QUEER FACTS ABOUT
VEGETABLES. X. THE USE OF NAPKINS.
^j 1. Diuing-Rooiu Furniture and Decoration.
gN all we have said of the ornamentation of farms, of the home, of household art
and taste, and in all we shall say, we wish again to have borne in mind that it is
intended for those whose yearly increasing means allow them to gratify th.eir
tastes. Those struggling to pay debts, or those still employed in bringing their
farms into condition, should spend little in display; all is needed for mere comfort.
While we have endeavored to show how comfort may be secured at light cost, we wish
at the same time to educate taste, and show how, as wealth increases, the money may
be spent to the best advantage.
The dining-room furniture has already been spoken of. The paper on the walls
should not be of gaudy pattern, but may be rich and warm in tone. Massive mold-
ings and cornices should be used in the better class of houses. The arrangements for
heating should be perfect, for no one can enjoy a meal in a room that is insufficiently
heated or over-heated. The dining-room table may be as massive and handsome as
possible, even to solid mahogany if the purse will allow. The chairs ought to be
strong and at the same time as light as is consistent with strength. Either mahogany
or oak will be handsome enough, and our preference would be for the latter wood with-
out reference to its lesser cost ; there is no limit to the ornamentation that may be
put upon wood, in carving, etc. Whatever it be, all must harmonize. Let it be all
oak, all cherry, all "mahogany, to correspond with the graining or the solid wood-
work of the room. If the chairs are upholstered, leather is the best. A sideboard
of some kind for glassware, china, etc., and which is to be placed near the head of
the table, may be considered indispensable in, a large dining-room. In all farm-
houses of the better sort these will be found economical in the end.
Decoration of the Table. — The illustration of Completely Arranged Dinner-
table is given more for the hints and suggestions it contains than for close imitation.
With handsome silver and cut glass the wealthy can, of course, makeup a magnificent
dinner-table. The floral work shown in the illustration is thus done: In the dish at
the bottom of the center-piece place the flowers of the scarlet cereus, and about it
cluster stephanotus, with spikes of cyperus, alternating with delicate fern-leaves
above. In the compartment half-way up the stand are various flowers, including
174G]
THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS SEEVICE.
747
pale small geraniums, lily of the valley, maiden-hair, some spikes of ornamental
grasses, with lycopodium trailing over the edge. In the funnel-shaped top is a bouquet
of various flowers, with vines drooping therefrom. The end-pieces are low pots of
ferns covered with foliage. There is a small bouquet at every plate.
Of course, excessive decoration will not be indulged in by persons of good taste,
however wealthy. The every-day decoration is in accordance with the every-day
expenditure, but within this limit some attempt should be made by all, every-day, t-o
beautify the table with flowers and in other ways that refined taste may suggest.
COMPLETELY ARRANGED DINNER-TABLE.
II. Table Etiquette.
If you are not conversant with table etiquette, observe the actions, in a quiet way,
of j;hose whom you suppose to be most conversant therewith. Full directions for
table etiquette and all other matters of personal deportment will be found in Part IX.
of this work. No person is expected to take wine at a dinner party unless it is usual
for them so to do. If you do, always use the proper glasses for the wine served. If
fish knives and forks are provided, use them; if not, use only your fork and a small
crust of bread. Never put the uneatable portions of fish, flesh, fowls, or other debris
off your plate, and especially do not lay any such thing on the cloth. Avoid remarks
upon the quality or value of the food or service. If asked to take wine with any of
the company, and you do not wish to be excused on the plea that you do not drink
wine, have your glass replenished. It is not usual now to take wine in this way, and"
no person is expected to take wine as a matter of course. Never take a bone in your
748
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
fingers; the meat can always be separated with the knife. If, unfortunately, you get
a bone or other substance in your mouth that may not be swallowed, remove it deftly
in your napkin ; but such should never be the case, if you are careful and do not
hurry in your eating. If you must cough or sneeze, do so in your handkerchief and as
quietly as possible; and, above all, never drink hastily or with your mouth full.
III. Carving at Table. •
Every person should know how to carve ; practice until you are reasonably per-
fect. It is never done by main strength. A good knife, moderately long, pointed and
A DEESSED HAM.
SIELOIN OP BEEF.
keen must be used. All meat should be separated at the joints by the butcher.
Birds are served whole. Fish are divided with the fish slice, and the flakes should
not be broken in serving. A good rule in carving meats is to cut in rather thin slices,
across the grain, serving some fat with the lean.
Carving a Ham. — In carving a boiled or baked ham begin nearly midway from
the small end and carve in thin slices across the ham, following in succession to the
larger part. Cut across from A to B, as shown in the illustration. For those who
prefer the hock, carve at D. When a fair amount of meat has been carved, cut the
remainder, in the direction of C, D, in thin slices.
FILLET OF VEAL.
LEG OF MUTTON.
Roast Beef and Veal. — If a roast of beef or veal is made into a fillet by the
butcher, that is, the bone removed and the meat rolled, the carving is easy. Cut a
slice off the entire top that you may have a piece to serve with that from the inside.
If there is stuflSng skewered in, serve some of this also; serve fat if it is liked.
THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS SERVICE.
749
In a sirloin the carving is easy. The cuts should be as indicated by the white
lines; with the tenderloin, also serve liberally of slices from the top.
Leg of Mutton. — The under, or the thickest part of a leg of mutton, should
be placed uppermost and carved in slices moderately thin from B to C. If the
knuckle is asked for, serve it. When cold, the leg should be carved from the upper
side. The cramp-bone, considered by some a dainty, is removed by putting your
knife in at D and passing it around to E.
In all carving use firm strokes of the knife, so as to make clean cuts. Ladies
should make carving a study. Their carving knives and forks are smaller than those
used by gentlemen. AH broiled or fried meats are easily carved, but each piece
should be shapely and, if possible, have some "tid-bit" or fat with it.
IV. Carving Pour-Pooted. Game.
Hare, rabbit, squirrel, and that kind of game, should be unjointed by placing
the knife properly in, turning it back, thus disclosing the joints, when it may be
separated into proper pieces. Cut moderate pieces from the shoulder to the end of
the loin, and divide the head last, by severing from the neck, removing the lower
jaw, cutting through the division, from the nose to the top of the skull, and laying
it open. Serve dressing and sauce, or gravy with each piece.
KOAST TURKEY.
roast pig.
Roast Pig. — To carve a roasted pig — which should be sent to table garnished as
shown with head and ears — sever the pieces as shown in the diagram, divide the ribs
and serve with plenty of sauce. The ear and jaw are favorite parts with some. If a
joint is too much, separate it into smaller pieces.
V. Carving Birds and Fowls.
Small birds are either divided in halves and served in halves, or served whole, as
are quail, larks, etc. Larger land game is carved as are fowls.
Carving Turkey. — A turkey is carved by first taking thin slices from the
breast, as at A B on each side, until the whole breast is removed. Then take off the
legs, dividing the thigh from the drum-stick, and if a disjointer is at hand, use it to
separate the joint. Take off the wings and separate them at the joints. Serve with
dressing from C, and gravy. It is not usual to separate the bones of the rack of a
turkey. A boiled turkey is carved in the same manner as a roasted one, but the
750
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
trussing being different — the legs are drawn in to the body — it is somewhat more
difficult.
Chickens. — Barn-yard fowls are carved as is a turkey, so far as removing the
joints is concerned. Then remove the merry-thought — wish-bone — by inserting the
knife and passing it under the bones ; raise it, and the separation is easily effected.
The breast is served generally in slices, with other parts. To divide the fowl, cut
through the ribs down to the vent, turn the back uppermost, put the knife in about
the center, between the neck and rump, raise the lower part firmly, but not with
haste, and the separation is made. Then turn the neck or rump from you, take off
the side-bones, and the carving is complete. If the fowl is a capon, the breast is
sliced as in a turkey. Young fowls are generally served without slicing the breast.
BOILED FOWL-BKEAST. BOILED FOWL— BACK.
A.
PHEASANT.
PARTEIDGE.
Grouse, Ducks, Pheasants. — Grouse are carved like chickens. So, also, are
pheasants, but none of the breast is taken with the wings. The larger ducks are
carved in the same way.
Partridges. — If the party is of gentlemen only, the partridges are carved by
dividing the bird into halves, cutting down through the center, lengthwise. If the
party is of ladies and gentlemen, separate the legs at the thigh, and divide the bird
into three parts, leaving the leg and wing on each side together. The breast is then
divided from the back, the breast either helped whole, or divided in two, and helped
with any of the other parts. The cut shows the manner of trussing.
Pigeons, etc. — The breast of ducks is the choice part, and is served in slices.
Teal, widgeon and other small ducks are sometimes divided into halves, and thus
PIGEOX— BREAST.
PIGEON— BACK.
ROASTED GOOSE.
served. Pigeon, woodcock, and the larger snipe, are sometimes divided into half,
but generally served whole. The cuts show the manner of trussing pigeons, both
breast and back -view.
THE DINING-ROOM AND ITS SERVICE.
751
Geese. — In carving geese, follow with your knife the ma^-ks shown in the cut, A
to B; remove the wings, and the legs also if required. The dressing is taken from
the apron lieyond B.
VI. Carving Pish.
All large fish are divided into slices with the fish slice. It requires more tact
than knowledge. Take thin slices from the back and serve with pieces of the belly.
Cod. — Cod's head and shoulders is served by taking
slices across the back down to a line with the fin, serv-
ing some of the sound, which lines the back and is
taken bj' passing the knife under the back-bone ; serve
also some of the liver.
Flat Pish,— Flat fish are served whole, if small.
The larger flat fish are served in flat slices, serving a
part of the fin with each piece. If too large to be
served whole, serve the halves by taking out the back-
bone. The same rule will apply to all other fish.
Serve all pan fish whole, if small enough, or cut in halves by dividing along the
back-bone. Bony fish, when baked, should have the back and belly slit up, and
each slice drawn gently downward, by which means less bones are served. If there
is dressing, serve with the fish; also sauce.
CODFISH— HEAD AND SHbULDEES,
PAN FISH.
A PIECE OF SALMON.
Salmon. — In carving a piece of salmon, take thin slices, as shown from A to B,
and serve with each piece some of the belly taken in the direction from C to D. The
best part is the upper or thick flesh.
VII. The Service of the Table.
Breakfast is and should be one of the pleasantest meals of the day. Here the
family assemble, if not before, and courtesies and pleasant chat are interchanged
over the fragrant coffee, chops and rolls. The linen should be of the cleanest, the
silver bright, and the china dry and polished. The plates should.be hot in winter;
rolls should be hot, unless cold bread is preferred, and the dry toast just from the
fire. Buttered toast should be served as soon as it is made. Let there be flowers to
adorn the table at each meal, if possible. If you have an urn for hot water, place the
coffee-pot and the tea-pot in front of it, the coffee cups and saucers at your right and
the tea-cups at the left; the cream and hot milk at the right, the' slop-basin and
752 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
milk-pitcher at the left, and the sugar-bowl handy. There should be a fruit-plate and
breakfast-plate for each person.
Tea is a more simple meal, but none the less pleasant, since it closes'the labors
of the day. Luncheon also is a pleasant meal, because simple and lively with chat.
Dinner is the stately meal of the day, unless simply a family meal. It is then,
one of the most pleasant. In fact, why should not every meal be pleasant, and with-
out ceremony? Pleasant conversation and plenty of time at meals make digestion
easy. There is no reason why a meal should be bolted because of the labors of a
hurrying season. It is bad for digestion, and that is bad 'both for the temper and the
health. The farmer, of all the laboring classes, deserves that his table should be
pleasant to look at, and adorned with flowers and green things. He has it all within
himself to make it so.
VIII. Some Dishes for Epicures.
We have it from the most ancient authorities th^t their meals were not dull.
The household of Job, for instance, would seem to have been hospitable and merry,
for we read: "His sons went and feasted in their houses, every one their day (birth-
day) ; and sent and called for their three sisters to eat and drink with them." The
tables, however, probably were not provided with cooked peacock, feathers, tail and
all. That was a whim of later and more degenerate days, even if of a higher civili-
zation. The Romans — who were fond of the dish just spoken of and many others
still more curious, as for instance a pig baked on one side and boiled on the other —
fed the thrushes destined for their gourmand tables, with figs, wheat and aromatic
grains. A French epicure has said that small song-birds should be eaten the last of
November, for then the feeding on juniper berries gives their flesh the much-admired
bitter flavor. So with us, the grouse of Pennsylvania — our "prairie hen" — is supposed
to be much finer than anywhere else, from the mountain berries they feed upon.
All wild birds are supposed to be more nutritious and digestible than domesti-
cated ones, probably because they contain more fibrine and less fat. The same may
be said of venison. It produces "highly stimulating chyle," hence the digestion is
easy and rapid.
IX. Queer Facts about Vegetables.
Here again, it seems curious that the tables of farmers are not better supplied
with what they may so easily and cheaply raise. Three great Roman names came
from their vegetables. Fabius, the great general, we should call General Bean ; the
great orator, Cicero, was Vice-Chancellor Pea, and the house of Lentilus got the
name from the lentil. Gray peas were said to have formed the principal refreshment
at the circus and theater. This refreshment would rather surprise the average circus
audience nowadays. Instead, we have the familiar circus lemonade, made without
lemons, peanut and prize-package bawlers. With the fall of the Roman Empire
vegetables went out of fashion, and with them went pretty much all civilization.
THE DINING-EOOM AND ITS SERVICE.
753
The Romans ai'e said to have raised asparagus stems which weighed three pounds
each. To match this the Jews raised radishes of a hundred pounds weight, and so
hollow that a " fox and cubs might burrow therein."
The history of cabbage is curious. The Egyptians deified it, but then they had
many curious gods. They took cabbage first at their feasts. The Greeks and
Romans took it as a tonic after drunkenness. Cato
thought it a panacea for all the ills of man. It
was thought to be a specific for paralysis. Hippo-
crates prescribed it boiled, with salt, for the colic,
and in Athens it was thought a most excellent thing
B for young nursing mothers. Yet it is compara-
tively a short tipie only since cabbage became com-
mon in England. It is hardly fashionable in the
United States except raw, and with oysters.
X. The Use of Napkins.
Because the great Duke of Wellington was
obliged to envelop his whole chest in a napkin to
prevent catching too much of the soup and other
dishes in bis waistcoat, is no reason why clean
eaters should do so. The place for the napkin —
except with gluttons, old men and infants — is on
the lap. The first thing on sitting down to table is
to unfold the napkin, spread it on the lap, and the
last thing after dining is to lay it beside the plate or slip it in the ring if there be one.
When placed iii a ring they are simply folded square. There are many fancy shapes
for folding, but simple styles are preferable. The cuts, B 3 and B 4, show fancy
NAPKINS FOLDED ABOUT A
DECANTER.
FOLDING NAPKINS
ways of folding, the black lines marking the several folds. C 3 shows the miter
fold. The decanter requires no explanation. The arrangement will be easily seen
from the cut, and may be varied in many pleasing forms, to suit vases or other
table ornaments.
48
CHAPTEE IV.
DRESS, AND TOILET ART.
I. DRESS, ANCIENT AND MODEEN. II. THE REAL PURPOSES OF DRESS. III. CLOTHE ACCORDING
TO CIRCUMSTANCES.^IV. MENDING CLOTHES. V. ALTERING CLOTHES. VI. THE KIND OF
CLOTHES TO WEAR. VII. TASTE IN LADIES' DRESS. VIII SOMETHING ABOUT COLOR. IX.
TOILET-ROOM AND BATH. X. GARMENTS NEXT THE SKIN XI. THE CARE OF CLOTHES. XII.
THE CARE OF BRUSHES AND COMBS.
I. Dress, Ancient and Modern.
r
|N classic Greece, and in fact among all polite ancient nations, the form of the
wearer gave shape to the dress. In our days clothes too often make the figure of the
person who wears them. Among the ancients, a simple piece of cloth was allowed
to drape itself negligently over the form, now and then disclosing its propor-
tions. Now it is the art of the tailor and dress-maker which makes the fashionable
man or woman. The one padded and corseted, puffed out here, drawn in there; the
other a mystery of cotton, whalebone, steel and bustle, beneath which the wearer
" moves and has her being," sighs, languishes and breathes. In the country, indeed,
fashion does not go so far. Simple taste may there find exercise. Happy is the
city man or woman whose taste and wealth allow a few months of natural life in
the country.
True Taste in Dress. — The highest art in dress is that which, while conform-
ing in a measure to the prevailing fashion, exercises taste in the natural adornment of
the body. It is a sad sight to see suddenly rich people in city and country in gaudy
and vulgar finery ; they deserve only the ridicule they meet in their attempts to ape
the aristocrats abroad. The real gentleman or lady is never so dressed as to attract
special attention. Hence the real art of dress, whatever the station, or however rich,
may be summed up in two words : Unobtrusive simplicity. Almost equally few are the
words describing the manners of the gentleman or lady. They are simply: Modesty,
unassuming dignity, and self-possession.
II. The Real Purposes of Dress.
The real purposes of dress, beyond that of satisfying the natural instinct of
modesty and gratifying the universal passion for personal adornment, are to properly
prevent the loss of animal heat in winter, to facilitate the escape of the animal heat
in summer, and to protect the person from the extremes of the weather. The reason
why it is ntecessary to comply measurably with the demands of fashion, is, that^any
one who departs too far from the general custom in dress, becomes so conspicuous as
to attract that attention which every right-minded person seeks to avoid. That lady
[754]
DRESS, AND TOILET ART. 755
was perfectly dressed of whom this story is told : Having visited a friend, the next
day the friend was asked by a visitor (not perfect in dress or manners) what she
wore. " Indeed," was the reply, "I did not notice her dress; only the charm of her
manner and conversation." A delicate hint to the other, that if asked how she was
dressed, it would not have been hard to remember.
No Warmth in Clothes. — The notion that the body receives warmth from the
dress is altogether wrong. There is no actual warmth in clothing. It is simply its
power of conserving or preventing the escape of the natural heat of the body that
makes it seem warm. With the thermometer at seventy or eighty degrees, but little
clothing is required. With the thermometer at one hundred degrees, "the real science
of dress is to facilitate the escape of heat by every possible means, as, for instance,
a free circulation of air. The heat of the body comes from the food we eat. Hence,
in the summer, heating food should be avoided. Perspiration is the principal natural
means of reducing excessive heat of the body; and thus the person who works in a
great heat perspires continuously and violently. If this were not so, the system would
quickly give way and death ensue.
III. Clothe According to Circumstances.
It is not our purpose to write a dissertation on fashionable dress. We only pro-
pose to show something of the philosophy and economy of clothing. The good sense
of every lady and gentleman will easily suggest what kind of clothes they shall wear.
The pocket as well as the taste must here be consulted. But yet, it is not so much
the material, as the manner in which it is made up and worn, that marks the person of
refinement and sensibility — the true gentleman and lady. A person may be soiled
with work that brings one in contact with dirt and grime, and yet not be offensive.
Yet it is a fact, dirt does not stick so easily to some people as to others — probably
for the reason that the same impulse towards cleanliness, that prompts bathing and a
change of dress, immediately the work is done, prevents also undue contact with that
which is offensive.
IV. Mending Clothes.
Many persons have a horror of patched clothes. If patching becomes necessary,
there should be no sensitiveness upon the subject. We must clothe according to our
condition in life. The opinion of the butterflies and fops who largely make up
certain phases of fashionable life, is not worth a thought. It is a false presumption,
that because a person has wealth, he or she looks down on those who are poor. The
gentleman and lady never do. It is only " cads " and " snobs " who fear contact
with those who keep the world moving. The world moves by the force of the labor
that is done. It is those who mix mortar, lay brick and stone, build and finish
houses, make machinery and utensils, set type and run the pi-inting press, raise the
provisions that feed the multitude — in short, the thinkers and workers of this world —
who are the moving power. The mechanic and the manual laborer, as well as the
756 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
merchant, the manufacturer and the -financier, are the machinery which keeps the
world in motion. The merely wealthy, who spend their lives in idleness, are as
moths flitting about a candle — necessary perhaps, because the money they spend
helps to make a market for the products of the workers. But the soiled laborer,
with patched clothes, if temperate, industrious and honest, performs a more impor-
tant part in this workaday world of ours.
Some must wear mended clothes. In fact, there are few sensible persons, how-
ever rich, but do so in some degree. In making up a dress or suit, reserve some of
the stuff for the mending that must surely come. If this cannot be done, then select
the nearest match you can. It is no disgrace to wear a coat of as many colors as that
of Joseph. It may have been the height of fashion in Jacob's time; it is not so now.
But if the gentleman or lady of wealth desire not to attract attention to their dress,
certainly the gentleman or lady less wealthy should not seek to attract attention by
the singularity of their patching and darning.
" A stitch in time " should be the motto. How easy it is in sorting the clothes
for the wash to make a memorandum of such as require mending, if you cannot
remember — a button off a garment, a frayed edge or button-hole, a rent, a missing
string or band, towel to be cut in half and the edges resewed. The clothes being
rough dried, mend them before starching and ironing.
V. Altering' Clothes.
In these days of cheap sewing machines the work of making, mending and alter-
ing clothing is much simplified. Children's clothing requires constant care. Tailoring
requires considerable strength. Men's clothing is more cheaply bought ready-made
than it can be made at home. The mending is not difficult.
Altering Children's Clothes. — Patches may be so neatly inserted as scarcely
to show. The legs of a child's trousers may be turned by cutting off, and reversing —
changing right and left — so as to scarcely show. Children's skirts may be altered to
fit the constantly growing form, letting out the tucks and bands. The material for
children's suits or dresses may be gotten from the partly worn clothes of the adult
members of the family. Garments thus made are just as good for the little ones to
play about in the fresh earth and grass, just as good to be torn by briers and brush as
new ones. Children need pretty free scope at play. It is healthy; it is good for both
brain and muscle. The child who never rolled in the grass, never wanted to make mud
pies or haul sand on a shingle, who never soiled or made a rent in the dress, never
made any mark in the world as man or woman.
VI. The Kind of Clothes to Wear.
Children are easily kept comfortable if proper care is taken in the materials
and making of their clothing. That young children should be girded in tight gar-
ments is absurd. The young girl who is laced together to bring her " form into
shape," with dresses of the shortest, and whose legs from the knee are covered only
DEESS, AND TOILET ART. 757
with thin stockings in winter, for fashion's sake, has as foolish a mother as has the
boy a father who refuses him flannel in winter, and makes him leave off his shoes and
stockings in early spring, to " toughen him." That kind of fashion and that kind of
toughening send a legion of children yearly into premature graves.
Dress your children comfortably, whatever the material, with light colors and
thin texture in summer, and bright, warm colors and stout, close goods for winter.
Keep good shoes and stockings on the feet, and light gear on the head, for it is as
true now as it was in Franklin's time, that "he who keeps the feet warm and the
head cool may bid defiance to the doctors." Comfortable, flexible, rather loose hats
and caps, and strong, well-fitting shoes for the boys; and no tight bandaging with
belts, stays and garters for the girls. Let them race and run to their hearts' content.
Nature intended that all young things should do so, to develop and round them out.
Let those who think that children should act as prim as the maiden of forty, take a
lesson from the colts, calves and lambs. They are always at play when not feeding
or resting. It is their education.
VII. Taste in Ladies' Dress.
Every lady should know what colors, and shades of color, harmonize with her
hair, eyes and complexion; and what patterns will be in harmony with her form.
Ladies instinctively understand this; gentlemen, as a rule, depend upon their tailors.
To those ladies who are in doubt, we should say, consult your dressmaker or your
milliner. However costly the material, it should be simple rather than glaring in
color. Avoid strong contrasts in the colors of the dress. However fashionable a
color may be, abjure it unless it is becoming to you. A fashion is as often started to
hide some deformity or peculiarity in a leader of fashion, as for any other reason.
Adapt new purchases as much as possible to the articles you already have, and always
let them be in harmony with your height, age, station in life and complexion.
VIII. Something About Color. ,
The strong or primitive colors are red, yellow and blue. Yellow and red pro-
duce orange by simple union ; yellow and blue produce green ; red and blue make
purple; orange and green, again, produce olive; orange and purple produce brown;
green and purple form a slate-color. The cold colors are blue, green and purple.
The warm colors are yellow, red and orange; olive, brown and slate are neutral
colors. These are modified by light or shade. For instance, grass which in the
bright sunshine appears almost yellow, in the shade is a cool, refreshing green. Take
the three primitive colors, yellow, red and. blue. Upon a disk of paper paint the
lower half blue, the upper right-hand quarter red, and the upper left-hand quarter
yellow. Fasten this upon any swift-whirling object, as a humming or peg top, and
they form white. A cold or warm effect is produced by a proper combination of
these colors, with reference to light. Warm effects are produced with white, yellow,
158
THE HOME AXD FAKVI MA^^:AI..
orange, red, purple, indigo and black, and their combinations. Cold effects, by
white, pale yellow, yellow, green, blue, indigo and black, and their combinations.
Table of Colors. — ^The following table will give a definite idea of color and
their various combinations. Gray is produced by a combination of white and black.
The three primitive colors being yellow, red and blue, the first compounds are orange,
purple and green, and the second compounds brown, slate and olive, as previously
stated. A careful study of these will show that effects of color in dress and trim-
mings, corresponds to the exercise of the painter's art. The lady who studies the
combinations most closely with relation to her own figure, complexion, and color of
hair and eyes, will produce the most pleasing effect in dress.
1
2
3
4
5
6
IS
is
is
is
is
is
is
is
is
1 + 7
1+6
1+9
2.+ 7
2+4
yellow,
red,
blue,
9
purple
green,
brown,
slate,
olive.
Primitive
colors.
First
compound.
Second
compound.
are yellow and orange,
are yellow and brown,
are yellow and green,
are yellow and olive,
are red and brown,
are red and orange.
2-1-5 are red and purple
2-f8 are red and slate.
3+6 are blue and gi-een.
3-J-9 are blue and olive.
3+5 are blue and purple.
3+8 are blue and slate.
4 + 7 are orange and brown.
6+9 are green and olive.
4 + 8 are orange and slate.
5+8 are purple and slate.
5+9 are purple and olive.
6 + 7 are green and brown.
7+8 are brown and slate.
7+9 are brown and olive.
8+9 are slate and olive.
Here we have the three primitive colors, their six pure compounds, and twenty-
one additional tints, or compounds, by means of the couplets. Take the three original
colors, put them together, regularly, and study the effect. It will be an excellent
lesson in color, besides showing what an infinity of tints may be produced.
IX. Toilet-Room ajid Bath.
A LADY writer insists, and very properly, that a room intended expressly for
toilet purposes, is necessary to every farm-house, large or small. In cities and large
towns, a room of this kind is sometimes found ; but in farm-houses and country resi-
dences, its necessity is very often overlooked. And at the same time, there is no
reasonable plea why it should be ; for on a farm, more than anywhere else, is such an
apartment an absolute necessity. When the farmer and his boys come in from the
field, tired and stained with toil, would it not be refreshing to have a room where they
could all repair for a comfortable wash, without waiting each for his turn at the
one basin, standing outside of the door, on the bench?
DRESS, ANU TOILET ART. 759
Such a room need not be large. A moderate-sized room, fitted up with basins,
sinks, combs, brushes, towels, hooks or racks for hats and coats, and a glass; these ,
are sufficient for ordinary use, and will save many moments of waiting the meal, when
it is ready. Such a room can be spared in a farm-house, as well as not, and should
have a door outside. In this same room every working member of the family can
tidy up, and do it, too, without much delay. If there is no vacant room which can be
converted to such use, a portion of the wood-house or any adjacent out-building can
be set aside to this purpose.
The Bath. — We have said that every house should have conveniences for pro-
viding a bath. It should be so arranged that hot or cold water may be used, even if
the hot water must be carried to the bath-tub by hand. Bathing should be performed
often enough so the skin may be quite free from the odor and eifects of perspiration.
After the bath, the body should be rubbed with a towel rough enough so the skin may
glow. It is not any more necessary, however, that the human skin be harrowed up,
than it is necessary that the groom tear a horse's skin to pieces by a brutal use of the
curry-comb. Thus, if brushes or harsh towels are used, use them gently.
Care of the Hair. — The^calp should be thoroughly brushed every day with a
brush stiff enough to reach the skin, so the dandruff may be removed. Have nothing
to do with nostrums to force the hair to grow, or to remove the hair. Cleanliness is
the best hair tonic; depilatories are dangerous. If your hair is thin, use false
hair as little as possible. There is no more certain cause of baldness than constantly
wearing masses of false hair. Dyeing the hair, also, to produce some fashionable
shade, is injurious in the extreme. All hair-dyes are poisonous, and the constant
growth of hair at the roots requires a constant renewal of the dye. As a rule, nature
has given hair that harmonizes with the complexion and eyes. Add all the helps to
nature you please, but do not attempt to interfere too decidedly with it. If a woman
is unfortunate enough to have a beard, or rather, if she considers this a misfortune,
depilatories will not remove it. Nothing but the patient use of the tweezers will
eradicate a beard — often, even this will not succeed perfectly.
X. Garments Next the Skin.
As a rule, woolen should be worn next the skin, where the object is quickly to
pass off the perspiration. It is the best summer shirt, and the coolest, for working-
men, but it need not be as thick as a board. Cotton increases the warmth and
perspiration, and has the property of retaining discharged humors, and passing them
back into the system. Wool promotes perspiration, but by its gentle friction keeps
the skin healthy, without clogging the pores. Linen gives a sense of coolness, but a
fictitious one ; it soon becomes damp. It holds the perspired matter, and the air
striking the moist surface, chills the body. The action of flannel is to excite perspira-
tion, quite necessary to the person at work, but it passes it through the material to
the outside, where it is dissipated freely. Thin soft flannel for summer, and thicker
flannel for winter, should therefore be the rule.
760 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
XI. The Care of Clothes.
Nevee brush clothes when wet. They should first become perfectly dry. Then
lay the material flat, and brush thoroughly the right way of the cloth. Before
brushing, rub out spots of mud. Remove all hard grease with the nail or the point
of a knife, then cover the place with some absorbent paper (a piece of a blotter),
and run a hot iron over it ; change the paper, and repeat the operation until all the
grease is absorbed. If the grease has soaked in, soft soap or ox-gall, or both, should
be employed to remove it. Cloth suits that have become somewhat threadbare, are
restored by second-hand clothes dealers, in the following manner: The cloth is first
soaked in cold water for an hour or more. It is then laid flat on a board and rubbed
the way of the cloth with a teasel-brush or partly worn hatter's card. The clothes
are then hung up to dry, the nap properly laid with a hard brush and dressed smooth
with a hot iron.
XII. The Care of Brushes and Combs.
Hair brushes and combs should be regularly cleaned. A solution of bicarbonate
of potassia or carbonate of soda is good for cleaning brushes, and if they are rinsed
in bay rum afterwards, so much the better. If not, use pure soft water. Combs
may be cleaned by washing in soft water and soap. A weak solution of carbonic
acid, or of sulphate of soda, is also useful for cleaning brushes ; but always thoroughly
dry and air them after washing. The horrors concealed in a damp, dirty hair-brush
can only be revealed by the microscope, but these minute germs are a virus from
which scalp diseases originate and are disseminated. Hence never use the brushes
and combs common to the guests of hotels and boarding-houses. The best tonic for
the hair is frequent brushing with a dry brush, and without dressing for the hair. If
anything is to be used as a dressing, take a little dilute bay rum, let the hair be hand-
rubbed dry, and afterwards dry brushed.
CHAPTER V.
THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM.
TO PRESERVE HEALTH AND SAVE DOCTORS' BILLS 11. THE CARE OF CHILDREN. III. NURSERY
BATHING. IV. DUE.ATION OF AND PROPER TIME FOR BATHING V. EXERCISE OF CHILDREN.
VI. STUDY AND RELAXATION. VII. THE SICK-ROOM. VIII. COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. IX.
TABLE OF FOODS AND TIME OF DIGESTION. X. SOME ANIMAL FOODS IN THEIR ORDER OF DIGEST-
IBILITY. XI. THE TIME REQUIRED TO COOK VARIOUS Ai4TICLES. XII. COOKING FOR CONVA-
LESCENTS—RECIPES AND DIRECTIONS. XIII. JELLY OF MEAT. XIV. OTHER SIMPLE DISHES.
XV. GRUELS XVI. TEAS AND OTHER REFRESHING DRINKS. XVII. REMEDIES FOR THE SICK.
XVIII. DOSES AND THEIR GRADUATION. -XIX. DISINFECTION. XX. TESTS FOR IMPURITIES
IN WATER. XXI. SIMPLE POISONS AND THEIR ANTIDOTES. XXII. VIRULENT POISONS AND
THEIR ANTIDOTES. — XXIII. HEALTH-BOARD DISINFECTANTS. XXIV. HOW TO USE DISINFECT-
ANTS.
I. To Preserve Health and Save Doctors' Bills.
I^HE preservation of health is of far greater importance than to dose a man after
___^ he is sick. To gratify " a false hunger," or slake " a false thirst," are only
^^^ provocatives to disease. It should be remembered that we live not by what we
eat, but by what we digest. Neither Walpole, who thought that with diet and
patience all diseases might be cured ; nor Montesquieu, who held that health, pur-
chased by vigorously watching over diet, was but a tedious disease, was far from the
mark. But a wise discretion in eating is better than all.
Heed the Stomacll. — " What is one man's meat is another man's poison," is
an old saying, and a true one. If every person would study his own individual powers,
and learn to respect his stomach, to remember that he has no more right to overload
it with improper food than he has to drink to intoxication, he would save himself
many an unnecessary ache and ailment. Chronic dyspepsia never came "of regular
occupation, abundant exercise, early hours, and generous, but not imprudent diet.
If you wake in the morning with a headache and lassitude, you have probably not
taken the advice of the " self-monitor," which has its home in the stomach.
Conform to Nature. — Dean Nowell, although he may have blazed the way for
red noses, did not grow strong by drinking ale. The Rajpoots who slay infants from
pride do not kill so many infants as do Christian mothers with too much stuffing.
The Bolton ass did not become fleet-footed by chewing tobacco and taking snuff.
The New Zealand warriors were not made stout nor brave because their mothers
thrust stones into their stomachs, as infants. And Brantome's uncle, who took gold,
steel and iron, in powders, from weaning-time until twelve years of age, did not
thereby acquire the strength to stop " a wild bull in full course."
First Principles. — A certain Kentucky man — and Kentucky men live much in
the open air — minded the silent monitor of the stomach. He was at a first-rate hotel
[761]
762 THE HOJIE AND FARM MANUAL.
table, where the bill of fare was in French. After reading carefully the whole, he
remarked, " I will go back to first principles, and take roast beef." He was not far
wrong. A good constitution, roast beef, vegetables, fruit, tea and coffee in modera-
tion, with liberal exercise, will keep any one in health.
If you have not the good constitution, get one by proper exercise, and a moder-
ate but generous diet. When you have got the constitution, keep it by avoiding
excesses. Moderation is said to be the first principle of digestion.
II, The Care of Children.
Gentle Firmness. — ^All who undertake the care of children, or who have the
care of the sick, should cultivate the virtue of patience, soft speech and gentle kind-
ness. There must be no swerving from duty, however distasteful it may be to the
chUd or patient ; firmness and gentle _ perseverance in the thing to be done should
be the rule. The nursery should be provided with every possible appli-
ance for the comfort of the infant, so that when sleeping it may lie soft, and warm
in the winter and cool in the summer. The ventilation must be perfect; children,
like birds, require an abundance of fresh air. When awake they should have a soft
pallet where they can exercise their limbs to their hearts' content. It will save much
unnecessary tending. Don't be afraid to toss them about when they have acquired
strength to stand it, but be certain of your own coolness and muscle ; then they will
come to enjoy it.
As they begin to notice objects, provide them with toys to amuse them, hard rub-
ber or ivory rings, wicker rattles, a toy balloon or other object to catch the eye and
educate the sight. There is no reason why children should be constantly sick or
ailing; nine times out of ten their ailments come from want of care, or rather from
too much care and dosing.
Feeding the Infant. — The mother should be sure that her own milk is not made
unwholesome to the child by worry or over-work, and that the milk of the cow or goat,
if used, is perfectly healthful. When an animal is found that is known to be healthy,
continue feeding the child on the milk of that animal. This selection is not diflicult
in the country. In the city it is only possible in certain cases, but every mother can
and should keep her own temper equable.
III. Nursery Bathing.
The child should be regularly bathed in water fully as warm as the body. A
bath-tub, or other vessel — a wash-tub wiU answer — in which the child can sit, when
old enough, should be provided. The child will soon come to like its baths, and look
forward to them with pleasure. The infants may be washed with tepid water, in a
room where there are no drafts, and dried gently with the softest of towels. They will
like it. Let them play and kick about in the bath pretty much as they like. A good
large square of oil-cloth will prevent wetting the carpet. It is taken for granted, of
course, that the child is in good health. If it is ailing, from any cause, consult your
THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM. 763
physician, but be sure your physician looks into causes carefully. The physician who
does not carefully study a case, has mistaken his calling If the child is delicate, the
bath should always be warm. If in ordinary health, the water should be tepid. The
cold bath should not be employed for children, except under the advice of a physician.
When the child is old enough to take care of itself, and proper friction is employed
immediately after, followed by a brisk run, cold bathing is not always objectionable.
Salt bathing may be artificially had by using a little sea salt in the water. It is
excellent.
ly. Duration of and Proper Time for Bathing.
All baths, even by those in health, should be taken in a warm room, unless the
regular swimming-bath is indulged in. Here the temperature of the air is pleasant
to the naked skin, for nobody with moderately good sense will go in swimming in
cold weather. In the following table, after Dr. Wooton, it should be understood
that winter, baths, both warm and cold, should be taken in a warmed apartment.
DTFANT BATH-TUB.
With this understanding, the table may serve as a general guide in bathing for both
adults and children.
Tepid Baths in Summer — Fresh and Salt Water. — Healthy people — time of
bath: ten minutes; frequency: twice daily; period of day: before breakfast and
retiring to rest. Weak people — time of bath: ten minutes; frequency: once daily;
period of day : before breakfast.
Cold Baths — Fresh Water. — Healthy people — time of bath: ten minutes;
frequency: twice daily; period of day: before breakfast and retiring to rest. Weak
people — time of bath : five minutes ; frequency : once daily ; period of day : before
breakfast.
Cold Baths in Summer — Salt Water. — Healthy people — time of bath: ten
minutes; frequency: once daily ; period of day: before breakfast. Weak people —
time of bath : five minutes ; frequency : once daily ; period of day : two hours after
breakfast.
In Winter. — The same rules will apply for winter in a properly warmed room.,
except that weak people should take the cold bath, if at all, before breakfast, as
directed for healthy persons, the duration five minutes, and once daily.
764 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
V. Exercise of Children.
The more children are left free, always under careful supervision, the greater
will be their enjoyment, and the more exercise will they take. Winter and summer
they should have it. In the summer let them roll and frolic about the lawn, if the
ground is dry. In damp weather, an old carpet may be laid down for them to'play,
and in damp or rainy weather they should have access to a garret or attic, or regular
play-room, where they may romp and play. In the winter their exercise should not
be omitted. Clothe them .warmly, with mittens, ear-muffs, thick stockings and
strong shoes, and let them run at will. The pure air will expand their lungs, and
send a glow to their cheeks they can get in no other way.
VI. Study and Relaxation.
Do not drive your children to study too young. From six to eight years is early
enough for regular school-going. Of course their education begins as soon as they
begin to notice things and run about — in object-lessons and toy instructors, lettered
blocks, etc. ; but they should not really be put to -school before the age mentioned,
and not thus early if they languish under study. Until a child is ten years old regu-
lar study should not be permitted. It must be more play than study. Then, the wise
teacher, up to the age of twelve, will mix plenty of play with study. From this time
on the study may be more and more continued; but no labor, except a few light
chores, should be included. Out of school hours let the child have play. Labor,
however light, does not stand the child instead of play. " All work and no play
makes Jack a dull boy." Hard study, with little exercise, fills the graveyard with
young bones. The midnight lamp nourishes the mature man's mind; but dreamless
sleep for the youth makes a healthy, brain.
VII. The Siek-Room.
Cheerfulness and Quiet. — In the sick-room there should be no unnecessary
noise, and, above all, no confusion. Neither should there be " solemn silence."
Some cheerful conversation is often better than medicine. In any event,, never allow
a friend with long-drawn, solemn face, or a procession of them, to walk in, and, with
a shake of the head, after gazing, to walk out again. Because a person is ill — even
dangerously so — there is no reason why the nurse or visitors should carry on their
faces the you-will-never-get-well look. It would dishearten any invalid that it did
not exasperate, and neither disheartenment nor exasperation is good for the sick, even
though it be said that when the sick are " strong enough to get mad," they are
" strong enough to get well."
The Nurse. — The nurse should be soft-handed, deft in her work, of cheerful
disposition, even tempered, and above all, intelligent. She should have delicate tact
in cooking, for while every operation of cooking should be cleanly in the extreme,
here the cooking, while simple, should be delicate. The beef tea must be pleasing
to the eye as well as grateful to the palate. The steak or chops should be tender and
THE NUESERY AND SICK-EOOM. 765
cooked to a turn. The egg should be so boiled or poached as to be good to look at.
Some tempting, simple, easily digested pudding, that comes as a surprise, is ten times
more grateful than if the patient has been promised it, and then given the impatience
of longingly waiting for it. A simple drink of water, if fresh from the well or spring,
is always welcome; however pure it may be, it is nauseous if it has stood in the room
until warm. It is all these little things, these attentions, that mark the careful from
the careless nurse. In fact, no person should undertake the office of nurse unless
loving kindness and self-abnegation are strong personal traits. With members of a
family, these feelings are, of course, present. Happy is the patient who can always
command such service.
In severe sickness, it is the physician, his medicines, and the soothing offices of
the nurse, that bring the patient through. Here fully as much depends upon the
nurse as upon the doctor. A time comes when no longer medicine but food is needed.
With convalescence it is the cook who takes the place of the doctor, and here the
nurse's best efforts are shown.
Weak Patients. — Very weak patients must be rallied ; stimulants may be neces-
sary. There may be a nervous difficulty in swallowing; the nurse should keep her
wits about her. The physician may have ordered a fixed quantity, say a teacupful of
som.e liquid food every three or four hours; the patient's stomach rejects it. Will
the nurse follow the given rule? No. She will try a single tablespoonful, once an
hour, or even a teaspoonful every fifteen minutes. Perhaps a stimulant is necessary.
These are things — the knowledge of them — that every nurse should inform herself
upon and be ready to act upon.
VIII. Cookery for Invalids.
General Rules for Cooking. — In addition to what has just been said it is
only necessary to give these general rules for cooking:
1 . There must be no smoke for broiling
2. All soups should be made with the most gentle simmering.
3. All fruits and vegetables must be perfectly fresh. '
4. An hour before cooking vegetables, put them in cold water to which a little
salt has been added to free them from any possible insects. Wash clean, drain, and
drop into water that is boiling fast. Take them from the water and drain the instant
they are done.
These general directions relating to cooking will suffice as to the processes in
invalid cookery. Some special recipes for dishes palatable and wholesome will be
given presently. These will, of course, consist of the most simple dishes, not highly
seasoned or spiced.
IX. Table of Foods and Time of Digestion.
The table given below is compiled to show the average time required for the
digestion of different foods, but of course, it is only approximate, since in the real
digestion of foods, no two systems will act precisely alike. The result will perhaps
766
THE HOME AKD FARM MAITOAL.
surprise many persons, who have been led into error in the supposed digestibility of
certain foods. For instance, oysters are generally supposed to be among the most
easily digested of foods. They are not even approximately so except when eaten raw.
Koast goose is by many supposed to digest slowly, but this is a great mistake:
AVEKAGE TIME FOB DIGESTION.
NAME OF AKTICI.E. HOUKS. MIN-
Apples, sweet, 1 30
Apples, sour, 2 00
Beans, green in pod, boiled, . . 2 30
Beef, fresh, roasted rare, ... 3 00
Beef, fresh, broiled 3 00
Beef, fresh, dried, 3 30
Beef, fresh, fried, 4 00
Beets, boiled, 3 45
Bread, wheat, fresh, . . - . 3 30
Bread, corn, .3 1.5
Butter, melted 3 HO
Cabbage, with vinegar, raw, . . 2 00
Cabbage, boiled, 4 30
Cheese, strong old, 3 30
Codfish, 2 00
Custard, baked, 2 45
Duoks, tame roasted, ... 4 00
Ducks, wild, 4 30
Eggs, boiled hard, 3 30
Eggs, boiled soft, 3 30
Eggs, fried, 3 30
Goose, roast, . .... 2 00
Lamb, fresh, broiled, 2 30
Liver, beef, broiled, .... 2 00
Liver, beef , fried, 2 30
Milk, boiled, 2 00
Milk, uncooked, 2 15
SAME OP AKTIOLE. HOUKS.
Parsnips, boiled, 2
Mutton, roast, 3
Mutton, broiied, 3
Mutton, boiled, 3
Oysters, raw, .2
Oysters, roast, 3
Oysters, stewed . 3
Pork, fi-esh fat and lean, roast, . 5
Pork, corned, boiled, 3
Pork, corned, raw, ... . . 3
Potatoes, boiled, 3
Potatoes, baked, 2
Rice, boiled, 1
Sago, boiled, 1
Salmon, salted, boiled, .... 4
Soup, beef and vegetable. . . , 4
Soup, chicken, . . . . . 3
Soup, oyster, 3
Tapioca, boiled, 2
Tiipe, soused, boiled, . . . 1
Trout, fresh, broiled or fi-ied, . . 1
Turkey, tame, roast, 2
Turkey, wild, roast, 2
Turnips, boiled, 3
Veal, fresh, broiled, 4
Veal, fresh, fried, 4
Venison, broiled, 1
MIN.
20
15
00
00
55
15
30
15
15
00
30
30
00 ,
45 '
00
00
00
30
00
00
40
00
15
30
00
30
35
X. Some Animal Poods in their Order of Digestibility.
These may be named about as follows,
time of digestion :
Not, however, in relation altogether to
Koast veal.
Oily fish, as salmon, mackerel, etc., boiled.
Wild pigeon and hare.
Tame pigeon, duck and geese.
Fish, fried.
Roast or boiled pork.
Lobster, crab or clams.
Smoked, dried, salted or pickled fish.
Old strong cheese.
XI. The Time Required to Cook Various Articles.
Vegetables. — Carrots, parsnips, turnips, onions, salsify, rutabagas : Boil from
1.
Sweetbreads.
11.
2.
Teuison. ,
12.
3.
Lightly boiled eggs.
13.
4.
Xew cheese, toasted.
14.
5.
Roast barn-yard fo^\i.
15.
6.
Oysters.
16.
7.
Lamb. i
17.
8.
AVild duck and other water-fowl.
18.
9i
Boiled flsh, not oily, as trout, perch, etc.
19.
10.
Roast beef, boiled beef and steak.
THE NURSERY AND SIQK-ROOM. 767
forty minutes to one hour. Cabbage, beets, potatoes, string beans: Twenty minutes
to one-half hour. Cauliflowers and squash : About twenty minutes. Grreen peas and
asparagus: About fifteen minutes.
Fisll. — The proper time in which any fish will cook properly, can only be learned
by experience. Fish must never be under-done. When the bones separate easily
from the flesh the fish is done. About seven or eight minutes may be given as the
proper time to each pound, after the water boils. Cutlets of fish will require from
five to ten minutes to fry, and somewhat longer to broil. Flat fish, the same. The
cleaving from the bone may be observed.
Roasting and Boiling. — The time required for properly roasting and boiling
meat is about fifteen minutes to the pound. Boiled meat will separate easily from the
bone when done. When roasted meats are done the flesh will yield easily to the
fingers. In fowls or game the flesh of the leg will yield and show it is ready to
separate from the bone, and in roasting before the fire, jets of steam will come from
the side next the fire, just before the joint of meat is done.
XII. Cookery for Convalescents— Recipes and Directions.
Extract of Beef. — This should be made the day before it is required for use,
kept cold, skimmed of all fat and warmed up. Mince one pound of lean beef to each
pint of extract required. Place in a jar with a closely fitting top (if luted, so much the
better), or in a bottle tightly corked. Place the vessel in another of cold water and
set on the stove where it will heat slowly. When the water boils, move to wher« it
will simmer, adding boiling water as the water boils away, so as to keep the inner
vessel pretty well submerged to the top. Let it cook for three or four hours; strain
through a cloth, and when cold remove any fat that may appear. When warmed up
for use, a teaspoonful of cream may be added to each teacupful of extract, or a very
little corn-starch or arrowroot.
Beef Tea. — A weaker extract or broth may be made in a covered saucepan with
a quart of water to each pound of chopped beef ; simmer until the water has evapo-
rated down to a pint.
Raw Beef Tea. — Made by allowing one ounce of fine chopped lean beef to
each tablespoonful of cold water. Let them stand together fifteen minutes, strain
and season to taste. For any of the above recipes the fiber of the meat may be
scraped away with a knife.
Broths. — Broths are made and thickened in the usual way, but care must be
taken to strain, and skim off all fat.
Breaded Chops and Cutlets. — The meat must be tender and lean. At least
the fat should not be eaten. They are prepai-ed by dipping the chop into melted
butter, or better, the beaten yolk of egg, to which is added a very little melted butter.
Sprinkle with fine crumbs of stale bread, and fry. If broiled, dip into melted butter
instead of into the egg.
768 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Broiled Fowl and Game. — The fowl must be young and tender. Divide it
down the back, flatten it out, rub with a little butter (and pepper if allowed), and
cook the inner side before the outer side. Salt when it is turned over to cook the
skin side. Or, it may be partly roasted and then broiled or fried. Serve hot, and
on a hot dish.
Boasting. — This should be done before a clear fire, if possible. It may be
easily managed with a fire of anthracite coal in the stove, since the bird or meat to be
served will presumably be small.
Boiling. — ^The rules heretofore given for boiling may be consulted, and some
nice bit selected from that prepared for the family dinner. See directions for boiling
vegetables. In boiling fish use as little water as will serve to cover it.
XIII. Jelly of Meat.
We do not think any meat jelly so good as that made from calves' feet. The
jellies and meat extracts of commerce are never so good as those prepared at home ;
but they are good substitutes. The jelly made from the heels of older cattle come
next to calf's-foot jelly.
Oval jelly mould. Jelly sieve.
Calf's-Poot Jelly. — It is made thus: Take two calf's feet, scald, and scrape
the hair clean, take off the hoofs and remove the fat between the toes, anS wash all
thoroughly in warm water. Put the feet into cold water and let it gradually come to
a boil, carefully skimming. Simmer six or seven hours, strain through a sieve and
let it cool. When it gets firm, remove the fat from the top, the jelly from the sedi-
ment, and put the jelly into a saucepan. To each quart of jelly add six ounces of
best granulated or loaf sugar and the shells and whites of five eggs, thoroughly beaten.
Stir all together while cold, but not after it begins to heat. Let it simmer five
minutes ; throw in a teacup of cold water and let it boil five minutes more ; cover the
saucepan closely and let it remain where it will keep hot for half an hour. Have
ready a flannel bag, wrung out of hot water, and pour in the jelly, keeping all quite
near the fire to prevent the jelly setting before it is strained. If it is not clear the
first time it runs through pass it through again.
The jelly bag is made larger at the top and narrows to a point, and is best of
THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM. 769
closely woven flannel, with the seams double sewed. Wine or lemon juice may be
added before straining if desired.
Jelly of Cows' Heels. — This is prepared precisely as is calf's-foot jelly. When
cooked, made cold, and the fat removed, a quart of ale or wine, the juice and rind of
two lemons, a quarter of a pound of sugar and the whites of six eggs are added, and
it is then finished like calf's-foot jelly.
Calf S-Poot Blanc Mange. — The stock of calf's-foot jelly is reduced, to bear
the addition of milk, flavored with vanilla, lemon-peel or other flavor, and is improved
by the addition of a little wine or brandy.
XIV. Other Simple Dishes.
Iceland Moss Jelly. — This is soothing in colds, coughs, catarrh, and pulmon-
ary affections generally. Put four ounces of Iceland moss in a quart of water, stir-
ring constantly while on the fire. When it has boiled about forty minutes or more,
add two ounces of lump sugar and a wineglass full of white wine. Strain through a
jelly-bag, and it will be fit for use when cold and firm.
A Blanc Mange may be made by boihng in milk instead of water, omitting the
wine, and flavoring with lemon, vanilla or other flavor.
Moss and Currant Jelly. — This is made by boiling slowly, in the same pro-
portions as for the first recipe, omitting the wine, and straining it on a tablespoonful or
more of currant jelly, mixing it well and putting it in a mould to cool.
Puddings. — These are made according to the recipes hereafter given. They
should be of the simpler preparations, as batter, bread, rice, arrow-root, etc., and
may be baked in a proper-sized shell or cup, and eaten with cream or wine sauce. A
simple wine sauce is made with a little sherry and water, sweetened with soft sugar.
Baked Rice and Apples. — This is a wholesome invalids' dish. Pare, quarter,
and core the apples, and stew them with a little cold water-and sugar, in which there
is also a little cinnamon and allspice, tied in a little bag for easy removal. Ten
minutes should stew the apples. Turn them into a saucer, spread boiled rice over, '
and cpver the whole with white of egg beaten to a froth. If the apples and rice are
put together cold, they must be heated through jn the oven before putting on the
egg. Serve when well browned.
XV. Gruels.
Gruels are made of corn-meal, oatmeal, rice or barley, generally of corn-meal
or oatmeal. Eice gruel is used for relaxed bowels. Gruels are all made by mixing
the meal with cold water, properly seasoning and turning into boiling water. When
done, say in five minutes, strain, sweeten to taste, flavor and serve. Add wine or
brandy if stimulus is necessary. Corn-meal and oatmeal, or other grits are better
soaked for some time in cold water before cooking.
Gruel of Groats. — To a tablespoonful of groats mixed with cold water, add a
pint of hot water. Boil ten minutes.
49
770
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
MILK, POERIDGE OR RICE BOELEES.
Oatmeal Gruel. — Stir two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal in a pint of cold water,
and let it stand for some hours. Then, after stirring well, strain through a fine sieve,
and cook the thin part, with constant
stirring, until it has simmered from five
to eight minutes. Season and flavor to
taste.
Rice Water with Raisins. — Take
six ounces of rice, two ounces of raisins,
and two quarts of water. Simmer for
half an hour. Strain and add to the
liquid two tablespoonfuls of good
brandy. This is good for dysentery and
diarrhoea.
Apple and Other Fruit Waters.
— Slice unpared apples, pears, etc., and
cook with water, until the fruit is' quite
tender. Strain through clean muslin. To
be taken cold.
Orangeade or Lemonade. — Pare the rind thinly from four oranges, and put
the rind in a pitcher. Take off and throw away the white slice ; then remove
the seeds, put with the thin peelings, add an ounce of sugar and a quart of boiling
water. Let it stand until cold, setting it on ice if necessary; or bottle and hang
down the well. Lemonade is made in the same way by substituting lemons for oranges,
and adding more sugar. For ordinary use, either is made by squeezing out the juice,
with a squeezer, and adding sugar and ice-water.
XVI. Teas and Other Befreshing Drinks.
Linseed Tea, for Gout, Gravel, etc. — As an accessory it is in good repute.
Take one tablespoonful of flaxseed, one quart of water and a little orange-peel. Boil
ten minutes in a clean porcelain kettle, sweeten with honey, add the juice of a lemon,
to allay irritation of the chest. Omitting the lemon, it is good for irritation of the
lungs, gout and gravel.
Chamomile Tea as a Strengthener. — Use one pint of boiling water to about
thirty chamomile flowers. Steep, strain, sweeten with honey or sugar, and drink a
cupful half an hour before breakfast, to promote digestion and restore the action of
the liver. A teacupful of the tea, in which has been stirred a full dessert-spoonful of
sugar and a very little ginger, is an excellent tonic and stimulant for an old person,
taken two hours before dinner.
White- Wine Whey. — Let a pint of milk come to a boil ; add half a gill of
white-wine; allow the whole to come to a boil, and pour into a basin to cool. When
the curd has settled, the whey is excellent for coughs and colds.
Hop Tea.
-This is considered good as an appetizer and strengthener of the
THE NUESEEY AND SICK-ROOM. 771
digestive organs. Take one-half ounce of hops, upon which is poured a quart of
boiling water; let it stand fifteen minutes; strain, and give a small teacupful half an
hour before breakfast.
Effervescent Drink.— Put the juice of a lemon, strained, in a tumbler of
water, with sugar enough to sweeten it. Add half a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of
soda, and drink while effervescing.
Sherbet. — Take one pound of best powdered sugar, two ounces of carbonate of
soda and three ounces of tartaric acid. Mix all thoroughly and keep in a bottle
corked tight. When wanted for use, put a teaspoonful of the powder in a tumbler,
add a drop of essence of lemon, fill with ice-water, stir and drink.
XVII. Simple Remedies lor the Sick.
Every family should know something of simple remedies, especially those who
live far from physicians. Often some simple remedy given in time will cure, or, at
least, carry the patient until permanent relief can be obtained. For this reason we
give a varietj^ of recipes collected from the best authorities, with appropriate doses,
the doses given being for adults. For children's doses, see table of proportionate
doses in the next section. The most of them are simple and easily procured. Castor
oil is now much less used than formerly, but is too valuable in certain cases to omit.
Acid, Acetic. — Vinegar distilled from wood and purified, used as a lotion for its
cooling properties, removing warts. It is not given internally, except in combination
with other remedies.
Acid, Benzoic. — Used in chronic bronchitis. Dose : 5 grains to ^ drachm, twice
a day.
Acid, Sulphuric. — (Diluted.) Sulphuric acid mixed with 11 times its bulk of
water. Used in dyspepsia, also to check sweatings, salivation and diarrhoea; also as
a gargle.
Acid, Tartaric. — Used in fevers with some soda of potassa, as an effervescing
draught, instead of citric acid; the acid is dissolved in water as a substitute for lemon,
juice, and added to soda. Dose: 15 to 25 grains.
Aloes, Barbadoes. — Used in dyspepsia and head affections ; also as a common
purgative. Dose ^ grain to 5 grains, well powdered or dissolved in hot water.
Alum. — Used internally in hemorrhages and mucous discharges ; externally as a
wash in ophthalmia, or as a gargle in relaxed uvula. Dose: 10 to 20 grains.
Ammonia, Liquor of. — Ammonia condensed in water. Used, when largely diluted,
in fainting, asphyxia, hysteria, spasms, acidities of the stomach ; and externally as an
irritant of the skin^ Dose: 5 to 15 minims.
AssAFOiTiDA, Gum. — Used in hysteria, flatulence, colic, etc. Dose: 5 to 10 grains.
Borax, Biborate of Soda. — Used in intestinal irritation of infants. Externally
applied to thrush, and to cutaneous diseases. Dose: 5 to 30 grains. Externally
applied, dissolved in 8 times its weight of honey or mucilage.
772 THE HOME. AND FARM MANUAL.
Camphok. — Used in hysteria, asthma, chorea, and generally in spasmodic diseases.
Externally, in muscular pains, bruises, etc. Dose: 3 to 5 grains, in pills. When
dissolved in water, as camphor mixture, the quantity is scarcely appreciable.
Capsicum. — Used in dyspepsia, flatulence, externally as an ingredient in gargles
for relaxed sore throat. Dose: 3 to 5 grains, in pills; 2 drachms to 8 ounces form
the strength for using as a gargle, diluted largely with water.
Cascaeilla Bark. — Stimulant, stomachic and tonic. Used in dyspepsia, flatu-
lent colic, chronic dysentery and gangrene. Dose: 20 to 30 grains of this powder
3 or 4 times a day.
Castor Oil.— Mildly aperient. Used in colic and in those cases of constipation
which will not bear drastic purgatives ; also for mixing with gruel for the ordinary
enema. Dose : A teaspoonful to 1 or 2 tablespoonf uls ; an ounce is the proper quan-
tity for mixing with gruel to make an enema.
Simple Cerate. — Add 20 ounces of melted wax to a pint of olive oil, and mix
while warm, stirring until cold. Used for covering blisters or other healing sores.
Chalk, Prepared. — Used in acidities of the stomach and bowels, and to correct
the irritation which is established in diarrhoea. Externally, as a mild application to
sores and burns. Dose: 10 to 15 grains.-
Chamomile Flowers. — Tonic, stomachic and carminative. The warm infusion,
when weak, is emetic. Externally, soothing. Used in dyspepsia, hysteria, flatulence,
and also to work off emetics. Dose of the powder: 30 to 40 grains, twice a day.
Charcoal. — Vegetable. Used as an ingredient in tooth-powder; also to mix with
other substances in forming a poultice for foul ulcers. Sometimes given internally.
Dose 10 to 20 grains.
Cinchona Bark. — (Yellow.) Astringent, tonic, antiseptic and febrifuge. Used
in typhoid fevers, and in all low states of the system, being in such cases superior to
quinine. Dose: 10 to 50 grains, in wine or wine and water.
Cinnamon Bark, Oil and Water. — Used as a warm and cordial spice to prevent
the griping of purgatives, etc.
Cod-Liver Oil. — Prepared from the liver of the codfish. Nutritive, and acting
also on the general system, from containing very small doses of iodine and bromine.
Dose: 1 drachm carried up to 4 in any convenient vehicle, as infusion of cloves.
Decoction OF Barley. — (Barley water.) Wash 2i^ ounces of pearl barley,
then boil it in ^ pint of water for a short time. Throw this water away, and pour
on the barley 4 pints of hot water; boil slowly down to 2 pints and strain. Soothing
and nourishing. Used as a diluent drink in fevers and in inflammation of mucous sur-
faces, especially those of the urinary organs.
Decoction of Barlet (Compound). — Boil 2 pints of barley water (see above)
with 2^ ounces of sliced figs, 4 drachms of bruised fresh licorice, 2j^ ounces of
raisins, and 1 pint of water, down to 2 pints, and strain. Effect, the same as barley-
water, but, in addition, laxative.
THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM. 773
Decoction or Broom (Compound). — Take ^ ounce of broom, i^ ounce of
juniper berries, and ^ ounce of bruised dandelion ; boil in 1 1^ pints of water down
to a pint, and strain. Diuretic, and slightly aperient. Used in dropsy. Dose : 1^
ounces to 2 ounces, twice or thrice a day.
Decoction op Cinchona. — Boil 10 drachms of bruised yellow cinchona in 1 pint
of water for 10 minutes, in a closed vessel, then strain. Used in fevers, malignant
sore throat and dyspepsia. Dose: 1^/^ ounces to 3 ounces,. 3 times a day.
Decoction of Dandelion. — Boil 4 ounces of bruised dandelion in 1^ pints of
distilled water, to a pint, and strain. Used in torpid conditions of the liver, jaundice,
habitual constipation, etc. Dose: 2 or 3 ounces, 2 or 3 times a day.
Decoction of Iceland Moss. — Boil 5 drachms of Iceland moss in 1^ pints of
water down to a pint, and strain. Used in consumption and dysentery. Dose: 1
to 2 ounces.
Decoction of Poppyheads. — Boil 5 ounces of bruised poppyheads in 3 pints of
water for y^ hour, and strain. Used as a fomentation in painful swellings and
inflammations.
Decoction of Quince-seed. — Boil 2 drachms of (Juince-seed in 1 pint of water,
in a tightly covered vessel, for 10 minutes, and strain. Used in thrush and irritable
conditions of the mucous membrane.
Decoction of Saesaparilla (Compound). — Mix 4 pints of boiling decoction
of sarsaparilla, 10 drachms of sliced sassafras, 10 drachms of guaiacum-wood shav-
ings, 10 drachms of bruised stick-licorice, and 3 drachms of mezeron-bark ; boil y^
hour, and strain. Used in cutaneous diseases, chronic rheumatism and scrofula.
Dose: 2 ounces, 2 or 3 times a day.
Extract of Hop. — Physical properties. A dark-colored, bitter extract, without
much smell. Tonic and sedative. Used in chronic dyspepsia and loss of sleep.
Dose : 10 to 15 grains.
' Infusion of Cascarilla. — Macerate lyi ounces of bruised cascariUa in 1 pint
of boiling water for 2 hours, in a covered vessel, and strain. Stomachic and tonic.
Used in dyspepsia, diarrhoea and general debility. Dose: 1 ounce to 2 ounces.
Infusion of Gentian (Compound). — Macerate 2 drachms of sliced gentian, 2
drachms of dried orange-peel, 4 drachms of lemon-peel, in 1 pint of boiling water,
for 1 hour, in a covered vessel, and strain. Stomachic and tonic. Used in dyspepsia
and general debility. Dose : 1 J^ to 2 ounces, 2 or 3 times a day.
Infusion of Horseradish (Compound). — Macerate 1 ounce of horseradish,
sliced, and 1 ounce of bruised mustard-seed in 1 pint of boiling water 2 hours, in a
covered vessel, and strain. Then add a fluid ounce of the compound spirit of horse-
radish. The same as the root. Dose: 1 to 3 ounces, 3 or 4 times a day.
Infusion of Quassia. — Macerate 10 drachms of quassia, sliced, in 1 pint of
boiling water, 2 hours, in a covered vessel. Tonic and stomachic. Used in dyspepsia.
Dose: 1)^ to 2 ounces.
Infusion of Roses (Compound''. — Put 3 drachms of the dried red-rose leaves
774 THE HOJIE AJTD FARM JIAJSTJAr,.
into 1 pint of boiling water, then add 1% fluid drachms of diluted sulphuric acid.
Macerate for 2 hours, and strain the liquor; lastly, add 6 drachms of sugar. Thera-
peutical effects : Astringent, refrigerant, and antiseptic. Used as a drink in fevers ;
also a vehicle for sulphate of magnesia, quinine, etc. Dose : 1^ to 2 ounces.
Liquor of Acetate of Lead. — Used as a lotion to inflamed surfaces when
largely diluted with water. '^
Liquor of Potass. — Used in acidity of the stomach and bowels; also in irrita-
bilitj' of the stomach and of the bladder, and in cutaneous diseases. Dose : 10 to 30
drops, in beer or bitter infusion, or lemonade.
]\LiGXESiA, Carboxate OF. — Uscd in dj'spepsia with costiveness, in the constipa-
tion of children and of delicate grown persons. Dose: ^ to 1 or 2 drachms.
Mercury, Chloride of Calojiel. — Used in chronic diseases of the liver and
general torpidity of the stomach and bowels; in dropsy, in combination with other
medicines. A most dangerous medicine when employed by those who are not aware of
its powerful effects. Dose: 1 grain twice a day as an alterative, 4 to 5 grains as an
aperient, combined with or followed by some mild vegetable purgative.
Mixture of Iron. — All mixtures of iron should be prepared by capable drug-
gists.
Poultice of Charcoal. — ^lacerate, for a short time, before the fire, 2 ounces
of bread in 2 fluid ounces of boiling water; then mix, and gradually stir in 10 drachms
of linseed meal ; with these mix 2 drachms of powdered charcoal, and sprinkle 1
drachm on the surface. Used in gangrene.
Poultice of Yeast. — jNIix 5 ounces of yeast with an equal quantity of water,
at 100° ; with these stir 1 pound of flour, so as to make a poultice ; place it by the
fire till it swells, and use. Stimulant, emollient. Used in indolent abscesses and
sores.
Quinine, Sulphate of. — Physical properties : Colorless, inodorous, lustrous,
bitter efflorescent crystals, totally soluble in water previously acidulated with sul-
phuric acid. Stomachic, stimulant, febrifuge and tonic. Used in general debility,
neuralgia, and after fever. Dose: 1 to 3 grains.
Soda, Bicarbonate of. — Physical properties: A heavy, white powder, without
smell, and tasting slightly soapy. Entirely soluble in water. Anti-acid. Used for
acidities of the stomach. Dose : 5 to 30 grains.
Spigelia. — A very useful remedy for round worms. Dose: 10 to 20 grains of
the powder, given fasting ; or ^ to 3 ounces of the infusion made by pouring 1 pint
of water on ^ ounce of the root.
Syrup of Iodide of Iron. — Is used because the iodide of iron is liable to in-
jury from change. Alterative, and affording the effects of iron and iodine. Used in
scrofulous diseases, and in cachectic states of the system. Dose: y^ drachm to 1
drachm.
Wine of Iron. — Stomachic and tonic. Used the same as other iron medicines.
Dose: 30 to 60 minims.
THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM. 775
XVIII. Doses and Their Graduation.
All who have charge of sick-rooms where the physician is not in regular attend-
ance, should understand the proportionate doses for various ages; but here, again,
proper calculation must be made for development, constitutional differences, etc.
The nurse should also know something of how certain medicines act on different sys-
tems. The following table will give a general idea of the proportionate dose to get
ordinary action of medicine, allowing that a person of twenty-five to forty years of
age requires a full dose.
TABLE OF PROPORTIONATE DOSES.
Age 80.. 65.. 50.. 25-40.. 20.. 16.. 12.. 8 .. 5 .. 2 Years.
Doses ..5^..3/..7^.. 1 ..7/s..3^..S/s..)4..3/8..%
Age 12 6 2 to 1 Months.
Doses 1-5 1-8 1-15 1-24.
Adult women require about ^ the full dose of men.
Measures for Doses. — A tumbler is estimated to contain four or five fluid
ounces ; a wineglass one and one-half or two fluid ounces ; a tablespoon about one-
half fluid ounce; a teaspoonful one fluid drachm ; a minim is one drop.
_ XIX. Disinfection.
With Clay or Loam. — Dry earths, strong loams and clay, reduced to powder,
are cheap and perfect deodorijzers of fetid substances, when the latter are covered
with the earth. These are valuable in all cases when the substance does not nearly
saturate the earth used.
Copperas. — For privy-vaults, cesspools, etc., especially those giving off the
smell of sulphurated hydrogen (rotten-egg smell), use copperas in powder. It is
cheap, and one or two pounds will destroy the smell of an ordinary privy-vault or
cesspool. It is also the best cheap disinfectant for sinks, drains and all that class of
fixtures giving off bad smells.
Carbolic acid or chloride of lime may be used in all cases when the smell of
these agents does not reach the rooms of a building.
Earth Closets. — We give two simple forms of earth closet for sick-rooms.
Fig. 1, a form with back ; Fig. 2, showing the arrangement for depositing the earth
on the " stool." Fig. 3 is a more simple form; Fig. 4, showing the seat opened.
They are valuable in the country for invalids, who cannot at all times go out of
doors. [See next page.]
To Disinfect Clothing. — Clothing may be disinfected by subjecting it to a
dry heat just below that which will injure the cloth. Perfectly boiling water is
usually sufficient to remove the contagion of diseases like small-pox, etc., but it is
better after washing to subject the clothing to a heat of not less than 300° Fahren-
heit. This may be done under pressure of steam.
Disinfecting the Sick-Room. — It is useful to know whether the air of a
776
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
sick-room is pure or not. To discover this, dampen a piece of white linen with a
solution of nitrate of lead. If impure, the cloth will be darkened. The following
table will show the relative value of some of the more common disinfectants, the
first-named being taken at 100.
THE NUESERY AND SICK-KOOM. 777
TABLE OF RELATIVE VALUE OF DISINFECTANTS.
Chloride of lime with sulphuric acid, 100
Chloride of lime with sulphate of iron, 99
Carbohc acid, disinfecting powder, 85.6
Slaked lime, 84.6
Alum, . 80.4
Sulphate of iron, 76.7
Sulphate of magnesia, .... 57.1
Permanganate of potash, with sulphuric acid, 51.3
Hence, if nothing better is available, use air-slaked lime freely in powder when-
ever epidemic and contagious diseases are present. For cesspools use sulphate of
iron in solution.
XX. Tests for Impurities in Water.
To tell if water be hard or soft, dissolve soap in alcohol, and drop a little in a
glass of the water; it will become more or less milky, according to the hardness of
the water.
Test for Iron. — A crystal of prussiate of potash, dissolved in water containing
iron, will turn it blue.
Test for Copper. — If copper be present in water, a few drops of liqjiid ammonia
will turn it blue.
Test for Lead. — If lead is suspected in water, add a little sulphuret of ammonia
or potash. If there is lead in solution, water will assume a dark brown or blackish
hue.
XXI. Simple Poisons and Their Antidotes.
Evert person having the care of children, should be conversant with the best-
known antidote for simple poisons. A specific for poisoning by poison oak (Hhus.
toxicodendron} i and other poisonous plants of that class, is to dissolve a handful of
quicklime in water, let it stand half an hour, then paint the .poisoned parts with it.
Three or four applications will never fail to cure the most aggravated cases. Poison
from bees, hornets, spider-bites, etc., is instantly arrested by the application of equal
parts of common salt and bicarbonate of soda, well rubbed in on the place bitten or
stung.
XXII. Virulent Poisons and Their Antidotes.
Oil of Vitriol, Aqua-Foetis, Spirit of Salt. — Antidotes— Magnesia., chalk,
soap and water.
Emetic Tartar. — Antidotes — Oily drinks, solution of oak bark.
Salt of Lemons or Acid of Sugar. — Antidotes — Chalk, whiting, lime or mag-
nesia water. Sometimes an emetic draught.
Pritssic Acid. — Antidotes — Pump on back, smelling-salts to nose, artificial breath-
ing, chloride of lime to nose. Strong prussic acid kills instantly.
778 THE HOME AND FARM aiANUAL.
Peaklash, Soap Lees, Smelling-Salts, Niter, Hartshorn, Sal Volatile. —
Antidotes — Lemon-juice and vinegar and water.
Arsenic, Fly-Powder or White Arsenic, King's Yellow or Yellow Arsenic.
— Antidotes — Emetics, limewater, soap and water, sugar and water, oily drinks.
Mercury, CoRROSI^"E Sublimate, Calomel. — Antidotes — White of eggs, soap
and water.
Opium, Laudanum. — Antidotes — Emetic draught, vinegar and water, dashing
cold water on chest and face, walking up and down for two or three hours.
Lead, White Lead, Sugar of Lead, Goulard's Extract. —Antidotes — Epsom
salts, castor oil and emetics.
Copper, Blue-Stone, Verdigris. — Antidotes — Whites of eggs, sugar and water,
castor oil, gruel.
Zinc. — Antidotes — Limewater, chalk and water, soap and water.
Iron. — Antidotes — Magnesia, warm water.
Henbane, Hemlock, Nightshade, Foxglove. — Antidotes — Emetic and castor
oil, brandy and water if necessary.
Poisonous Food. — Antidotes — Emetics and castor oil.
' XXIII. Health-Board Disinfectants.
The instructions of the National Board of Health in relation to disinfectants
and their use, with explanations as to disinfectants and deodorizers, are valuable.
We have in XIX given simple means of deodorizing and disinfection. Deodorizers
destroy smells ; they do not necessarily disinfect. Disinfectants do not necessarily
have odors, and some of the most virulent germs, as typhoid germs, may not, in
water, be apparent to the sense of taste or smell. Disinfectants destroy the poisons
of infectious and contagious diseases.
Some disinfecting agents recommended by the Board are :
"1. Roll-sulphur (brimstone) for fumigation.
"2. Sulphate of iron (copperas) dissolved in water, the proportion of one and
a half pound to the gaHon ; for soil, sewers, etc.
"3. Sulphate of zinc and common salt, dissolved together in water, in the pro-
portions of four ounces sulphate and two ounces salt to the gallon ; for clothing, bed-
linen, etc."
XXIV. How to Use Disinfectants.
"1. In the Sick-Room. — The most available disinfectants are fresh air and
cleanliness.
"The clothing, towels, bed-linen, etc., should, on removal from the patient, and
before they are taken from the room, be placed in a pail of the zinc solution, boilinff
hot if possible.
"All discharges should either be received in vessels containing copperas solution,
or when this is impracticable, should be immediately covered with copperas solution.
All vessels used about the patient should be cleansed with same solution.
THE NURSERY AND SICK-ROOM. 779
"Unnecessary furniture, especially that which is stuffed, carpets and hangings,
should, when possible, be removed from. the room at the outset; otherwise they should
remain for subsequent fumigation and treatment.
"2. Fumigation. — Sulphur is the only practicable agent for disinfecting the
house. The rooms to be disinfected must be vacated. Heavy clothing, blankets,
bedding, and articles which cannot be treated with zinc solution, should be opened
and exposed during fumigation. Close the rooms as tightly as possible, place the
sulphur in iron pans, supported upon bricks placed in wash-tubs containing a little
water, set it on fire by hot coals, or with the aid of a spoonful of alcohol, and allow
the rooms to remain closed for twenty-four hours. For a room ten feet square, at
least two pounds of sulphur should be used ; for larger rooms proportionally increased
quantities.
"3. Premises. — Cellars, yards, stables, gutters, privies, cesspools, water-
closets, drains, sewers, etc., should be frequently and libei'ally treated with copperas
solution. It is easily prepared by hanging a basket containing about sixty pounds of
copperas in a barrel of water.
"4. Body and Bed Clothing, etc. — It is best to burn all articles which have
been in contact with persons sick with contagious or infectious diseases. Articles too
valuable to be destroyed should be treated as follows :
" Cotton, linen, flannels, blankets, etc., should be treated with the boiling-hot
zinc solution ; introduce piece by piece ; secure thorough wetting, and boil at least
half an hour.
" Heavy woolen clothing, silks, furs, stuffed bed-covers, beds and other articles
which cannot be treated with the zinc solution, should be hung in the room during
fumigation, their surfaces thoroughly exposed, and pockets turned inside out.
" Afterward they should be hung in the open air, beaten and shaken. Pillows,
beds, stuffed mattresses, upholstered furniture, etc., should be cut open, the contents
spread out and thoroughly fumigated. Carpets are best fumigated on the floor, but
should afterward be removed to the open air and thoroughly beaten.
"5. Corpses. — These should be thoroughly washed with a zinc solution of
double strength; should then be wrapped in a sheet, wet with the zinc solution, and
buried at once. Metallic, metal-lined or air-tight coffins should be used when pos-
sible, certainly when the body is to be transported for any considerable distance."
CHAPTER VI.
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY.
VALUE or CONDENSED INFORMATION. II. ORIGIN OF OUR HOUSEHOLD RECIPES. III. ECONOMY
IN THE KITCHEN— WASHING DISHES. IV. THE DAMPER IN THE STOVE. V. REGULATING COAL
FIRES. VI. THE USE OF WASTE PAPER. VII. CLEANING SOILED MARBLE, ETC. VIII. VERMIN-
OUS INSECTS. IX. CLOTH AND FUR MOTHS. X. BOOK-DESTROYING INSECTS. XI. KEROSENE.
XII. THE LAUNDRY— SOJIB HELPS IN WASHING. XIII. STARCHING AND IRONING. XIV. BLEACH-
ING LINENS, ETC. XV. HOME-MADE SOAP AND CANDLES. XVI. TO CLEAN SILVER.' XVII.
SWEEPING. XVIII. PAPERING, KALSOMINING AND PAINTING. XIX. KALSOMINING. XX.
PAINTING. XXI. SPRING HOUSE-CLEANING. XXII. HOUSEHOLD HINTS XXIII. TOILET RECI-
PES. XXIV. HOME-MADE WINES. XXV. HOME-MADE INKS. XXVI. RECIPES FOR GLUE. :
XXVII. THE DYER'S ART. XXVIII. COLORING DRESS AND OTHER FABRICS. XXIX. COLORING
YELLOW, BLUE AND GREEN. XXX. SCARLET AND PINK. XXXI. COLORING BLACK, BROWN AND
SLATE. XXXII. WALNUT C0L0J4ING— BLACIC WALNUT. XXXIII. COLORING CARPET RAGS.
I. Value of Condensed Information.
Recipes, to be of use, shouU be suited to the needs of those for whom they are
Elaborate preparations that can only be made by a chemist, or by
~^^^ the aid of scientific appliances beyond the reach of the masses, would be out of
oK, place in a book of the practical nature of this work.
Tables of useful facts are also of great value in every department of life, for the
reason that they present at a glance necessary information that could not be otherwise
given except by many pages of print. They are simple and valuable to have at
hand when needed. Every person outside of cities and villages is interested, for
instance, in knowing the number of plants that may be contained on a given piece of
ground ; the quantity of seeds required per acre or per rod ; weights per bushel of
various grains, and the number of seeds in an ounce or pound; how to judge of the
quality of land by its vegetation, and scores of other things of like kind. These we
have grouped together in tliis volume so as to be easily examined, and so classified
that ho time need be spent in hunting for them.
II. Origin of Our Household Recipes.
In the course of the author's experience as agricultural editor and writer, many
valuable, because simple, recipes relating to household art have come into his posses-
sion, partly through correspondence with the best housekeepers and partly through
communications to the journals with which he has been connected. The best of this
collection have been selected for reproduction in this work. The household depart-
ments have been prepared with the aid of a lady of long experience as a housekeeper,
and well known for her patience and deft skill in nursing the sick.
[780]
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY.
781
III. Economy in the Kitchen— Washing Dishes.
An English lady says : There are so many modes of washing dishes, that some will
take it as quite unnecessary that they should be told how to do it. The proper way is
perfectly simple. Have a pan of hot water in which a little soap has been dissolved,
and then use a mop made of an old linen towel, or candle wicking fastened to the end
of a, stick, and then transfer them to a pan of still hotter water, and drain a moment,
and wipe dry. This gives them an elegant polish. They should be wiped as soon as .
they have been through the last water, else they have a streaked effect, which can be
felt, if not seen. It is the custom in England to drain them in racks, but we think
our own mode the best — at least, with the white ware so fashionable in this country,
and which is so little known there.
The glassware should be washed first, then the silver, then the cups and saucers,
etc., and the greasy dishes last. Never wash nor wipe more than one article at a
time. When china is rough to the touch, it is simply because it is not cleansed. Hot
water, and plenty of it, dry, clean towels and rapid wiping make the dishes shine
like mirrors. You can wash glasses in quite hot water, by rolling them round in the
water, filling them as soon as they touch it, thus making all portions of the glass
equally hot. They ' will never crack if treated in this way. Dish-washing forms a
large proportion of the daily life of the housekeeper, and anything which expedites it,
and leaves time for other things, ought to be welcomed.
IV. The Damper in the Stove.
The following, on the use of the damper, by an editorial lady friend, although
written for stoves in which wood is burned, contains information of equal value for
_ . those burning coal, whether hard or
soft. The use of the instrument, must,
however, be studied, since different
fuels require different treatment. Con-
ceiving the damper, our contributor
says: A damper in the stove is of
great importance in a house — both as
a matter of economy, and of comfort.
It makes the hot air remain in the
stove, and does not take in the outside heated air, which is done through the crevices
and proper drafts. If the damper is shut, you instantly feel the heat on your face,
showing that it is thus kept in the room. The circulation is thus stopped in the
room, and a soft, pleasant atmosphere is the result.
Economy in Fuel — The main item is, however, economy in fuel. Not more
than half the quantity of wood is used, and yet an equal amount of heat is obtained.
This is of some consequence to the purchaser, or to the person who has the wood to
chop, and of course, has an extra amount to furnish when it goes roaring up the
ADJUSTABLE STOVE DAMPER.
782 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
chimney. Then to the housekeeper, the fact that she gains more ashes by the use of
a damper, is an inducement to use one, as they are not lost in the air.
Wood Fuel. — Dry hard wood is positively necessary, where a damper is used.
Dry hickory makes the best coals. Maple and birch come next, though the flame is
not so hot and bright. The beech blazes well, but is too much like soft wood.
When the blaze is gone there is not much left of it. With a damper you can use
soft maple. It is often the case that when there is not a damper, the fire is contin-
ually " going down," the heat is unequal, and the temperature of the room is being
continually rendered cool — first dry, then damp, making it disagreeable and danger-
ous. This matter is of the utmost importance to the housekeeper, and should be
attended to.
V. Regulating Coal Fires.
Never fill a stove more than half or two-thirds full of coal, even in the coldest
weather. When the fire is low, never shake the grate or disturb the ashes', but add
from ten to fifteen lumps of coal, and set the draft on. When these are heated
through and somewhat ignited, add the amount necessary for a new fire, but do not
disturb the ashes yet. Let the draft be open half an hour. Then shake out the
ashes. The coal has thoroughly ignited, and will keep the stove at a high heat from
six to twelve hours, according to the coldness of the weather. In very cold weather,
after the fire is made, add coal every hour.
Use of Coal in Sick Rooms. -Mrs. M. G. L., of West Virginia, writes:
You know what a racket is caused, even by the most careful hand, in supplying coal
to a grate or stove, and how, when the performance is undertaken by Biddy, it
becomes almost distracting. If you don't remember, take notice the first time you
are ill, or have a dear patient in your care, or the baby is in a quiet slumber. Let
some one bring in the coal scuttle or shovel, and revive your recollection. Well, the
remedy we suggest is to put the coal in little paper bags, each holding about a
shovelful. These can be laid quietly on the fire, and, as the paper ignites, the coals
will softly settle in place.
You may fill a coal scuttle or box with such parcels, ready for use. For a
sick-room, a nursery at night, or even for the library, the plan is admirable. Just
try it. Besides, it is so cleanly. If you don't choose to provide youi'self with
paper bags, you can wrap the coals in pieces of newspapers at your leisure, and have
them ready for use when occasion requires. Pei'haps the "help" will kindly do it
for you ; or better still, the children, if the house is so sunshined, will attend to the
wrapping, and think it fine fun.
Economy in Coal. — Mrs. N. M., of St. Charles, Missouri, says: In any fire-
place not excessively small, a plate of iron set upon the grate will halve the consump-
tion of coal, reduce the smoke and leave a cheerful, free-burning fire. Quite sufficient
air enters through the bars, no poking is necessary and the fire never goes out until the
coals are consumed. There is no ash and no dust, every particle being consumed.
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 783
Any householder can try this experiment and reduce his coal bill, say thirty per cent,
at the cost of a shilling.
Care of Stoves. — Blackening and polishing stoves is hard work. Indeed, one
of the best known lady writers on economy and household art, has said that a black-
ened stove may be a nuisance. It may be so in more ways than one. Few house-
keepers, says our authority, have time to blacken their stoves every daj', or even every
week. Many wash them in either clean water or dish-water. This keeps them clean,
but they look very brown. After a stove has been blackened, it can be kept looking
very well for a long time by rubbing it with paper every morning. If I occasionally
find a drop of gravy or fruit juice that the paper will not take off, I rub it with a wet
cloth, but do not put on water enough to take off the blacking.
VI. The Uses of Waste Paper.
A CORRESPONDENT In Little Rock, Arkansas, truly says: Comparatively few
housekeepers are aware of the many uses to which waste paper may be put. After a
stove has been blackened, it can be kept looking very well for a long time by rubbing
with paper every morning. Rubbing with paper is a much nicer way of keeping the
outside of a tea-kettle, coffee-pot and tea-pot bright and clean, than the old way of
washing them in suds. Rubbing with paper is also the best way of polishing knives
and tinware, after scouring. This saves wetting the knife handles. If a little flour
be held on the paper in riibbing tinware and spoons, they shine like new silver. For
polishing mirrors, windows, lamp-chimneys, etc., paper is better than dry cloth.
After it has been so used it is none the worse for kindling fires. Preserves and pickles
keep much better, if brown paper, instead of cloth, is tied over the jar. Canned
fruit is not so apt to mold if a piece of writing paper, cut to fit the can, is laid directly
on the fruit. Paper is much better to put under a carpet than straw. It is warmer,
thinner, and makes less noise when one walks over it. Two thicknesses of paper
placed between other coverings on a bed, are as warm as a quilt. If it is necessary
to step upon a chair, always lay a paper on it and thus save the paint or woodwoi'k
from damage. A fair carpet can be made for a room not in constant use, by pasting
several thicknesses of newspaper on the floor, over them a coat of wall-paper, and
giving them a coat of varnish.
VII. Cleaning Soiled Marble.
Much annoyance is frequently experienced from soiling marble, table-tops,
kitchen slabs or other marble objects. It is said that if slacked lime is mixed with a
strong solution of soap into a pasty mass and spread over the spot, and allowed to
remain for twenty-four or thirty hours, then carefully washed off with soap and
water, and finally with pure water, the stain will be almost entirely removed,
especially if the application be repeated once or twice.
Ox-Gall and Lye. — Another preparation consists in mixing an ox-gall with a
■quarter of a pound of soap-boiler's lye, and an eighth of a pound of oil of turpen-
784 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
tine, and adding enough pipe-clay earth to form a paste, which is then to be placed
upon the marble for a time, and afterward scraped off, the application to be repeated
until the marble is perfectly clean. It is quite possible that with all our endeavors a
faint trace of the stains may be left ; but it is said that this will be almost inappre-
ciable. Should the spots be produced by oil, these are to be first treated with
petroleum for the purpose of softening the hardened oil, and the above-mentioned appli-
cations may be made subsequently.
Ink Spots on Marble. — Ink spots may be removed by first washing with pure
water, and then with a weak solution of oxalic acid. Subsequent polishing, however,
will be necessary, as the luster of the stone may become dimmed. This can be best
produced by very finely powdered soft white marble, applied with a linen cloth first
dipped in water and then into the powder. If the place be subsequently rubbed with
a dry cloth the luster will be restored.
Grease Spots on Wood. — If one is so unfortunate as to get any sort of grease on
floor or table, apply directly potter's clay, just wet with water so as to form a stiff
paste. Spread it pretty thick upon the grease spot, and lay a thin paper over to keep
it from being rubbed off. After twenty-four hours scrape it off and spread ofi fresh
clay. It will gradually absorb the grease, and leave the floor or table clean; but it
may need to be renewed several times. When the clay looks clean, wash off with
soap and water. The clay is also good to take grease from clothing, applied in the
same way.
To Clean Tin Covers. — Mix a little of the finest powdered whiting with the
least drop of sweet oil, rub the covers well with it, and wipe them clean; then dust
over them some dry whiting in a muslin bag, and rub bright with dry leather. This
last is to prevent rust, which the cook must guard against by wiping them dry and
putting them by the fire when they come from the dining-room, for if hung up once
damp, the inside will rust.
VIII. Verminous Insects.
Cockroaches and Bed-Bugs. — Cockroaches are the plague of many house-
keepers, and yet a little Paris green is death to them. Keep it in a common flour-
dredging box, label it poison, and apply it weekly to their haunts. Bed-bugs or
chinch-bugs can also be dispersed and utterly routed with this remedy ; and both
cockroaches and bed-bugs will flee from powdered borax. Travelers should always
carry a paper of borax in their bags, and sprinkle it under and over their pillows, if
they fear they shall become food for the last-named wretches.
Ants and Flies. — Sprigs of worm-wood will drive away large black ants; and
none of them, whether black, brown or red, relish wintergreen, tansy, Paris green,
cayenne or kerosene ; so if they invade our pantries, we can, by a judicious application
of some one of these articles, make the premises too unpleasant for them. Fly-paper
should be kept around the house as early as the middle of May. Put it in every open
window, and thus destroy every intruder. It must constantly be borne in mind, that
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 785
the cobalt with which some fly-paper is saturated, and also Paris green,' are two most
deadly poisons. Keep them safely out of the way of children.
Expelling Flies Prom Rooms.— It is stated that if two and a half pounds of
powdered laurel leaves are macerated or boiled in two gallons of water, until their
poisonous quality is extracted, and with the solution a whitewash is made, by adding
as much quicklime as can be slaked in it, and if a room be whitewashed with this
preparation, flies will not settle on the walls for six months. If a paste, made by stir-
ring together one pint of the powdered laurel leaves with a quarter pint of glycerine, be
applied to windows and door casings, a room so prepared will soon be emptied of flies.
Two applications of this paste are enough to keep even a kitchen clear of insects for
a fortnight.
There is nothing disagreeable or deleterious to human beings in the odor of the
wash or paste, though laurel leaves, or laurel water, taken iftto the human stomach,
acts as a violent poison.
You may also drive flies out with a brush, but, unless something is done to render
the place uninviting to them, they will return immediately. There are many weeds
or plants emitting an empyreumatic odor which answer well for the purpose. None
are more effectual than the wild chamomile (Mayweed). The odor of this plant is not
at all disagreeable, and branches of the weed when in flower, or some of the dried
flowers, scattered about a room, will soon rid it of all flies.
Another way is to throw some powdered black pepper on a hot shovel and carry
it about the room. The generation of empyreumatic vapors in the same way from
other spices will also, it is said, answer the purpose. A few drops of carbolic acid
or creosote, on a cloth hung up in a sick-room or used in the dressings, would proba-
bly be effectual, but the odor is not usually so acceptable to one's olfactories.
The best thing of all is to keep them out. The author has never found any
means of doing this so cheap, effectual and pleasant, as wire screens to all doors and
windows. This will keep them out, with a little driving occasionally, if the doors all
open outward. For mosquitoes and gnats, when it is impracticable to keep them out,
as in the case of tents, used while camping out, a little brown sugar burned on coals
we have found effective in some instances in driving them away, but of course a good
mosquito-bar is the best.
IX. Cloth and Pur Moths.
The small moths so destructive to cabinets, tapestry, clothes, carpets, furs,
grains, etc., are called tineans, and belong to the natural order lepidoptera. They
have four membranous wings covered with imbricated scales, like fine powder — as
the butterflies and moths. Among these are the carpet moth, the clothes moth, the
fur moth, and the hair moth. These moths are nocturnal in their habits, flying in the
evening. They do not lay their eggs in material in constant use, and therefore ward-
robes, drawers, chests, etc., should be frequently examined, and the contents aired,
and beaten to dislodge the eggs or larvre.
50
786 THE HOStE AND FAEM MAIOJAL.
In old houses subject to their depredations, the cracks in closets, and other ex-
posed places, may be brushed over with turpentine or other odorous substances.
Sheets of paper sprinkled with spirits of turpentine, powdered camphor, shavings of
Russia leather or tobacco, are also preventives. Chests and boxes of camphor-wood,
red cedar and Spanish cedar, are obnoxious to these insects, and are useful for pre-
serving costly articles.
The cloth linings of carriages, etc., may be preserved from their depredations by
b ing sponged on both sides with a solution of corrosive sublimate in alcohol, just
s xong enough so that it will not bleach a black feather white. The insects may also
'je killed by fumigating with tobacco smoke, or the fumes of sulphur. It is also said
that if hemp, in flower, cut and dried, be placed in a cushion, it will prevent the
ravages of moths for years.
Purs. — ^A good recipe for preserving furs from moths is : Ope ounce gum cam-
phor and one of powdered shell of red pepper. Macerate in eight ounces of alcohol for
several days, then strain. Sprinkle furs, etc., with this tincture, roll up in a clean
cloth and lay away.
X. Book-Destro3»ing Insects.
Books, large or small, made up of dry paper, are nesting-places for a variety of
insects, hardly large enough to be recognized as living things. Besides making them-
selves homes between the leaves, they feast on the paste, binding, twine on the backs
and the green mold that gathers on them if neglected. One species takes up residence
in the binding, devouring as it goes. Another feeds upon the paste. Still another
book pest that is sure to appear in a library, not overhauled and dusted occasionally,
eats through a volume.
Bookcases should not be made light with glass doors. Wire-netting is far prefer-
able, because the books are kept drier; fresh air is all-important. An upper story is
superior to a basement, being less liable to gather mold, which is a forest of minute
vines in which bookworms ramble for exercise. Twice in each summer the books
should be exposed to a bright sunlight while dusting them, also exposing the open
leaves to a fresh current of air.
XL Kerosene.
Kekoseke is volatile and its vapor is explosive. Only the best oils — from 150
degrees fire test up to 175 degrees — should be used. The oil does not explode. An
oil may even extinguish a burning match when thrown into it, and yet be highly
dangerous to be used as a burning fluid. It is the vapor of these oils mixed with air
that is dangerous, as far as explosion is concerned. WhUe a partly filled lamp has the
portion above the oil filled with a mixture of vapor and air, it may explode. When
a lamp is filled while lighted, the mixture of air and vapor in the can or filler explodes
upon coming in contact with the flame; the oil itself does not explode, though it does
serious injury when scattered by the explosion.
Test for Kerosene. — Dr. Nichols, the well-known chemist and writer on chem-
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 787
ical science, advises the following test for kerosene : Fill a pint bowl two-thirds full
of boiling water, and into it put a common metallic thermometer. The temperature will
run up to over 200 degrees. By gradually adding cold water, bring down the tempera-
ture of the water to 100 degrees, and then pour into the bowl a spoonful of the kero-
sene, and apply a lighted match. If it takes fire, the article should be rejected as
dangerous; if not, it may be used with a confident feeling of its safety.
XII. The Latindry— Some Helps in Washing.
The Germans, and especially the Belgians and Hollanders, are noted for their
fine washing. Their method, which does away with the use of soda, is as follows:
Dissolve two pounds of soap in about three gallons of water as hot as the hand can
bear, and add to this one tablespoonf ul of turpentine and three of liquid ammonia ;
the mixture must then be well stirred, and the linen steeped in it for two or three
hours, taking care to cover up the vessel containing them as nearly hermetically as
possible. The clothes are afterwards washed out and rinsed in the usual way. The
soap and water may be re-heated, and used a second time, but in that case half a
tablespoonful of turpentine and a tablespoonful of ammonia must be added. The
process will cause a great economy of time, labor and ruel. The linen scarcely
suffers at all, as there is little necessity for rubbing, and its cleanliness and color are
perfect. The ammonia and turpentine, although their detersive action is great, have
no injurious effect upon the linen ; and while the former evaporates immediately, the
smell of the latter will disappear entirely in drying the clothes
WasMug Summer Suits, etc. — Summer suits are nearly all made of white or
buff linen, pique, cambric or muslin. Whatever the material, common washerwomen
spoil everything with soda, and nothing is more frequent than to see the delicate tints
of linens and percales turned into dark blotches and muddy streaks by the ignorance
and vandalism of a laundress. It is worth while for ladies to pay attention to this,
and insist upon having their summer dresses washed according to the directions which
they should be prepared to give their laundresses themselves. In the first place the
water should be tepid, the soap should not be allowed to touch the fabric; it should
be washed and rinsed quickly, turned upon the wrong side, and hung in the shade to
dry, and when starched (in thin boiled but not boiling starch) should be folded in
sheets or towels, and ironed upon the wrong side as soon as possible. But linen
should be washed in water in which hay or a quart bag of bran has been boiled.
This last will be found to answer for starch as well , and is excellent for print dresses
of all kinds ; but a handful of salt is very useful to set the color of light cambrics
and dotted lawns ; and a little ox gall will not only set but brighten yellow and purple
tints, and has a good effect upon green. — Adele.
To Cleanse Blankets. — Put two large tablespoons of borax and a pint bowl of
soft soap in a tub of cold water. When dissolved, put in a pair of blankets and let
them remain over night. Next day rub them out, rinse thoroughly in two waters, and
hang them to dry. Do not wi-ing them.— S. E. F.
788 THE HOME AND FARM JIAXUAL.
To Wash Flannels. — I wonder if housekeepers know that flannel should never
have soap smeared upon it, or be rubbed upon aboard? A hot suds should be made,
and the flannel should be squeezed through it, rubbing the dirtiest portions in the
hands as lightly as possible. When the stains are softened, another warm water should
be read}', into which dip the flannels, and squeeze them dry as possible out of it.
Shake them well, and hang them out where the wind will not strike them hard ; never
hang them in the sun. — A. W.
Washing Plllid.^Three tablespoonf uls of soda, the same quantity of dissolved
camphor (the same as kept for family use), to a quart of soft water; bottle it up,
and shake well before using. For a large washing take four tablespoonf uls of fluid
to a pint of soap, make warm suds and soak the clothes half an hour; then make
another suds, using the same quantity of soap and fluid, and boil them just fifteen
minutes, then rinse in two waters. — ]\Ia3iie, Lake County, Ind.
To Remove -Acid Stains and Restore Color. — ^When color on a fabric bas
been destroyed by acid, ammonia is applied to neutralize the same, after which an
application of chloroform will, in almost all cases, restore the original color. The
application of ammonia is common; but that of chloroform is but httle known.
Chloroform will remove paint from a garment or elsewhere, when benzole or bisul-
phide of carbon fails.
To Preserve Clothes-Pins. — They should be boiled a few moments and
quickly dried, once or twice a month, when they become more flexible and durable.
Clothes lines will last longer and keep in better order for wash-day service, if occa-
sionally treated in the same way.
To Remove Grease from Worsted. — Take one-quarter pound of Castile
soap, one-quarter pound ammonia, very strong, one ounce sulphuric ether, one ounce
spirits of wine, one ounce glycerine. To mix this cut the soap fine and dissolve in
one quart of soft water, and then add four more quarts of water and all ingredients.
Two or three daily applications of benzine will also remove the grease spots.
Apply with brush or woollen cloth. Do not make the application in a warm room, as
the article is highly inflammable. — Maggie, Richland, Mich.
XIII. Starching' and Ironing.
Starch and iron shirt bosoms as usual, and when the articles are thoroughly dry,
place one at a time on a narrow, hard and very smooth board, which has one thickness
of cotton cloth over it, sewed tightly ; have the polishing iron heated so that it will
not scorch, and rub it quick and hard over the surface, up and down the bosom, using
only the rounded part on the front of the iron. A still higher polish may be obtained
by passing a damp cloth lightly over the smooth surface, and then rubbing hard and
quickly with the hot iron. It needs a good deal of patient practice to do this admir-
ably, but when once learned, it is as easy as other ironing. A polishing iron is small
and highly polished, with a rounded part, which allows all the friction to come on a
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 789
small part at one time, which develops the gloss that may be in both linen and starch.
Collars and cuffs look nicely done in this way.
For Lawns. — Take two ounces of fine white gum Arabic powder, put it into a
pitcher, and pour on a pint or more of water, and then, having covered it, let it stand
all night. In the morning, pour it carefully from the dregs into a clean bottle, cork
it and keep it for use. A teaspoonful of gum water stirred into a pint of starch made
in the usual manner, will give to lawns, either white or printed, a look of newness,
when nothing else can restore them, after they have been washed.
Gloss for Shirt Fronts, Collars and C\if!s. — To a pail of starch, a whole
sperm candle is used. When the linen is diy, it is dipped in the cold starch and
ironed in the ordinary way ; then it is dampened with a wet cloth, and the polishing
iron pressed over it. To this last manipulation the linen is indebted for the peculiar
laundry gloss which all admire so much, but which many housekeepers have vainly
striven to leave upon the wristbands and bosoms of their husbands' shirts.
XIV. Bleaching Linens, Etc,
The best method of bleaching or restoring whiteness to discolored linen is to let
it lie on the grass, day and night, so long as it is necessary, exposed to the dews and
winds. There may occur cases, however, when this will be difficult, and when a
quicker process may be desirable. In these cases, the linen must be first steeped for
twelve hours in a lye formed of one pound of soda to a gallon of soft boiling water;
it must then be boiled for half an hour in the same liquid. A mixture must then be
made of chloride of lime with eight times its quantity of water, which must be well
shaken in a stone jar for three days, then allowed to settle; and being drawn off
clear, the linen must be steeped in it for thirty-six hours, and then washed out in the
ordinary manner. To expedite the whitening of linen in ordinary cases, a little of
the same solution of chloride of lime may be put into the water in which the clothes
are steeped; but in the employment of this powerful agent, great care must be exer-
cised, otherwise the linen will be injured. — Housekeeper, Louisville, Ky.
Bleaching Cotton Goods.— A very good way, says Mrs. M. T. M., Auburn,
111., to bleach cotton cloth is to soak it in buttermilk for a few days. Another way
is to make a good suds, put from one to two tablespoonfuls of turpentine into it,
before putting the clothes in. Wash as usual, wringing the clothes from the boil, and
drying without rinsing. By using one tablespoonful of turpentine in the first suds on
washing days, it will save half the labor of rubbing, and the clothes will never
become yellow, but will remain a pure white. It is simple, and I never wash
without it.
To Clean Merino. — Grate two or three large potatoes ; add to them a pint of
cold water ; let them stand for a short time and pour off the liquor clear, when it
will be fit for use. Lay the merino on a flat surface and apply the liquid with a clean
sponge until the dirt is completely extracted. Dip each piece in a pailful of clean
790 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
water and hang up to dry without wringing. Iron while damp on the wrong oide.
It will then appear almost equal to new. — Nellie, Jefferson, 111.
Removing Iron Rust Wash the stains in ripe tomatoes. Then hang in the
sun to dry. After thoroughly drying, wash in clear water.
XV. Home -Made Soap and Candles.
Soft-Soap. — In making soft-soap, use a pine barrel, for a hard-wood barrel will
warp and leak. A well-cleansed fish barrel is commonly taken for the purpose. Put
in ten to twelve pounds of potash, and throw upon it two pailfuls of boiling water.
Let it digest awhile and then put in two pounds of grease to each pound of potash.
Have the grease hot. Let that digest awhile, then add a third pailful of hot water.
Stir and digest awhile, then add another pailful of hot water. Keep doing this until
the barrel is within six inches of being full. Stir occasionally until the whole is well
mixed. It should stand three months before use. Stir occasionally during the first
week. The longer it stands after making, the better the soap. We keep it a year
before use. — W. Niagara Co., N. Y.
Another Way. — For one barrel of soap, take thirty pounds of grease, free
from salt, rinds or bits of lean meat, and the lye from two ba,rrels of good ashes.
Put one quart of lime in the bottom of each barrel of ashes. Put boiling water on to
leach with ; have ready the soap barrel where it is to stand. When the lye begins to
run, melt the grease in a little lye and pour it in the barrel. Heat the lye and fill it
full, stirring frequently until cold. I always use the stove kettle, as that is free from
rust, which makes white cloth yellow. Soap made in this way will be very light-
colored and thick, and requires but little labor in making. If the lye is not strong
enough to eat the grease, boil it awhile. — Mrs. A. G.
Cold-Made Soap. — Have lye strong enough to bear up an egg. Then stir in
any soap grease until the lye is pretty well filled, and in a week, or ten days the soap
will be fit for use. In the meantime, stir occasionally. — Mes. M. A. C, Labette Co.,
Kan.
Hard-Soap. — Five pounds soda ash, two and a half pounds white lime, one-half
pound resin, ten pounds grease, eight gallons soft water. Boil five hours. Take the
soda ash and lime, put them in your kettle, pour the water over, and boil one-half
hour. Then let it settle, and turn off the lye. Lift out the lime and soda ash,' turn
over it more water, as it is yet quite strong, return the lye to the kettle, add the grease
and resin, and boil five hours. This makes excellent soap. — Mrs. E. A. H., North
Benton, O.
Second Recipe for Hard Soap. — Pour four gallons of boiling water over six
pounds of salsoda and three pounds of unslaked lime. Stir the mixture well and
let it stand over night. Then drain it off. Put six pounds of tallow, or any kind of
clear orease with it, and boil it two hours, stirring most of the time. — C. E. S.,
Carondelet, Mo.
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 791
Lard Caudles. — Take twelve pounds of lard, one pound saltpeter, one pound
alum. Pulverize and mix the saltpeter and alum; dissolve the compound in a gill of
boiling water; pour the compound into the lard before it is quite melted. Stir the
whole until it boils, and skim off what rises. Let it simmer until the water is all
boiled out, or until it ceases to throw off steam. Pour off the lard as soon as it is
done, and clean the boiler while it is hot. If the candles are to be run in a mould,
you may commence at once, but if to be dipped, let the lard cool first and cake. Then
treat as you would tallow. — Nettie, Terre Haute, Ind.
Hardening Tallow. — Take the common prickly pear and boil or fry it in the
tallow, without water, for half an hour, then strain and mould. I use about six
average-sized leaves to the pint of tallow (by weight one pound of leaves to four of
tallow), splitting them up fine. They make the tallow as hard as stearine, and do not
injure its burning qualities in the least. — Mrs. E. L. O., Waco, Tex.
XVI. To Clean Silver.
A LADY correspondent in Southern California sends the following : Silver is
most susceptible of spotting and discoloration by sea air, the human perspiration, the
presence of sulphureted hydrogen (as seen in an egg spoon left uncleaned), the
excreta of cockroaches and other strong-smelling insects, and lastly, by the contact
of mice; the latter cause has irretrievably injured new plated-ware, never used, but
left on a sideboard accessible to these little vermin. It is the practice of the East-
Indian jewelers never to touch silver and gold with any abrasive substance. The
most delicate filigree work and wire constructions of silver are rendered snowy white
by their simple manipulation. They cut some juicy lemons in slices; with these they
rub any large silver or plated article briskly, and leave it hidden by the slices in a
pan for a few hours. For delicate jewelry, they cut a large lime nearly in half and
insert the ornament ; then they close up the halves tightly and put it away for a few
hours. The articles are then to be removed, rinsed in two or three waters, and con-
signed to a saucepan of nearly boiling soapsuds, well stirred about, taken out, again
brushed, rinsed, and finally dried on a metal plate over hot water, finishing the
process by a little rub of wash leather (if smooth work).
For very old, neglected or corroded silver, the article may be dipped, with a
slow stirring motion, in rather a weak solution of cyanide of potassa, but this process
requires care and practice, as it is by dissolving off the dirty silver you obtain the
effect. Green tamarind pods or oxalate of potash are greater detergents of gold and
silver articles than lemons, and are much more employed by the artisan for removal
of oxides and fire-marks.
A strong solution of hyposulphite of soda, as used by photographers, is perhaps
the safest wash, as it will in no way attack the metallic silver, but only the films of
chloride, etc., on its surface.
792 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
XVII. Sweeping.
If brooms are wet in boiling suds once a week they will become very tough, will
not cut the carpet, will last much longer, and always sweep as clean "as a new broom,"
if kept hanging up when not in use. A most admirable way of sweeping a dusty
carpet is to have a pail of clean cold water stand by the door, into which the broom
can be dipped, taking care to shake all the drops out of it, by knocking it hard
against the side of the pail. Then sweep a couple of yards or so, wet the broom
again, and sweep as before. When carefully done, and the drops are all shaken out,
it will clean a very dirty carpet nicely, and you will be surprised at the amount of
dirt removed. Sometimes you will need to change the water two or three times. In
winter, snow can be sprinkled over the carpet and swept off, before it has time to
dissolve. Some throw down tea-grounds, and sweep them oif briskly. Fresh grass
is an excellent cleanser of a carpet, strewn thickly about and swept hard. Moistened
Indian meal has proved of good effect. — Ella W., Lincoln, Neb.
XVIII. To Paper "Walls.
Mrs. Annie E.. White, for many years literary and household editor of the
Western Mural, discourses as follows about the way to paper rooms: Don't try to
paper with a carpet down. Make paste, cut bordering and the paper the day before.
If the wall has been whitewashed, it must be washed in vinegar to neutralize the alkali
in the lime. If papered before, and you wish the paper removed, sop with water and it
will peel off. If convenient, provide a long board, wide as the paper, though a table
or two will do. The paper must be measured, placed right side down on the board;
then with a brush proceed to lay on the paste, not too thickly, but over every part,
and be careful that the edges receive their share. When completed, double within
three inches of the top, the paste sides being together; carry to the wall, mount your
chair, and stick your three inches of pasted paper on the wall at the top. That holds
it; now strip down the other end, and see that it fits just right; if not, peel down,
make right, then press to the wall from the center right and left. Leave no air under,
or when warm it will expand, bursting the paper.
Of course the paper must be matched ; it will not do to measure by lines unless
the walls are perfectly plumb. Small figures make less waste, and make a small room
look larger. Stripes make a low room look higher, and if there are no figures
between, or in the stripe to match, there is no waste, and no trouble in putting on.
If a narrow border is the style, let it be bright, if the pjiper be neutral; but if that be
bright, the border had better be dark and neutral. If the paste be made too thick,
the paper will be apt to crack and peel off; if too thin, it will saturate the paper too
quickly, and make it tender in putting it on. A counter-duster (Brussels brush) is
nice to brush' the paper to the wall. White clean cloths will do, but it will not do to
rub the paper with this ; being damp, the paint or color rubs off the paper. The
tables must be dried each time after pasting, for the same reason. Paste under paper
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON- HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 793
must not freeze, nor be dried too quickly. If wiiitewashing is done after papering,
tacli double strips of newspaper wider than the border all around the room, to pre-
vent its soiling the paper.
Papering Whitewashed Walls. — If the walls are covered with thick, scaly
whitewash, the result of years of additions, they must be scraped with a thin steel
scraper — a hoe will do if carefully used. This will smooth them. Then wash them
in weak lye and sweep off thoroughly when dry. Size the walls with glue water, one
pound of glue to a pail of water, and the paper will stick and not peel off. The
paste should be smooth rye flour paste, rather thin, but perfectly smooth. Starch
paste is the next best. — Painter-Turned-Farmer, Lincoln, Neb.
XIX. Kalsomining.
There are as many ways to kalsomine as there are to whitewash. The simplest
mode we know of is to take ten pounds of Paris whitfe, and soak it in cold water —
just enough water to dissolve it well. Take one-eighth of a pound best white glue,
soaked in cold water enough to cover. Let it soak three to four hours ; or till well
swelled. If there is much liquid by the time the glue is well swollen, take the glue
out and put it in a saucepan over the fire, with a little water to keep it from burning.
Mix the dissolved whitening thoroughly with the hand. Then add the melted glue,
mixing well. This mixing needs to be done in a large vessel. Then pour into these
ingredients a quarter of a pint of linseed oil, and on top of oil pour sufficient muriatic
acid (perhaps ten cents' worth) to cut the oil, stirring it the while. After this is
done, add cold water enough to the whole to thin it down to about a pailful of the
liquid. Then mix a little ultramarine in a cup of cold water, and add to the whole,
so as to remove the yellow tinge, and make it a bluish white. Apply with a clean
whitewash brush, one or two coats. So says Mrs. O. A. N., who adds, that her hus-
band does the kalsomining.
XX. Painting.
Best Time for Outside Work; — Paint houses late in the autumn or during
the winter. Paint then will endure twice as long as when applied in early summer,
or in hot weather. In the cold season it dries slowly and becomes hard, like a glazed
surface, not easily affected afterward by the weather, or worn off by storms. But
in very hot weather the oil in the paint soaks into the wood at once, as into a sponge,
leaving the lead nearly dry, and ready to crumble off. This last difficulty might be
guarded against, though at an increased expense, by first going over the surface with
raw oil. By painting in cold weather, one annoyance might certainly be escaped —
the collection of small flies in the fresh paint.
Redlpe for Inside Paint. — A cheap inside paint, and by no means a bad one,
especially where the smell of oil or turpentine would be objectionable, or in any case
where lead paint is not desirable, may be made by taking eight ounces of freshly
slaked lime, and mixingit in an earthen vessel, with three quarts of skimmed sweet milk.
794 THE HOME AXD FARM MANUAL.
In another vessel mix three and a half pounds of Paris white with three pints of
skimmed milk. When these mixtures are well stirred up, put them together, and
add six ounces of linseed oil. Mix these well, and it will be ready for use. This
preparation is equal to oil paint, and is excellent for walls and ceilings. Any shade
may be made by the addition of dry pigments. — Paintee-tdrned-Farmee.
To Soften Putty. — To remove old putty from broken windows, dip a small
brush in nitric or muriatic acid (obtainable at any druggist's), and with it paint over
the dry putty that adheres to the broken glass and frames of your windows ; after
an hour's interval, the putty will become so soft that it can be removed easily.
XXI. Spring House-Cleaning.
Now is the time that tries women's souls, and no sound is heard o'er the house
save the scrub-brush, the mop and the broom. The spring cleaning is at hand.
Blankets and Furs. — And first, there are all the woollens, blankets, etc., to be
washed, and all that can be spared (for we dare not put them all out of sight, lest we
provoke another snow-storm), are to be packed away in deep chests, and plenty of
cedar boughs strewn over them, or else- powdered camphor gum. The fortunate
possessor of a cedar-wood trunk need have no apprehensions, but without that, the
moth-millers will make sad havoc among your furs, woolens, etc., unless you guard
them carefully.
The Carpets. — All carpets do not need to be taken up ; those which do not,
can be loosened at the edges, the dust-brush pushed under a piece, and a clean sweep
of all the dust can be made. Then, wash the floor thus swept, with strong soap-suds,
and spirits of turpentine after. Then, tack the carpet down. The odor is soon
gone, if you open your windows, and you can feel safe for this summer, at least.
Upholstered furniture can be treated to the same bath, if applied with a soft, clean
cloth, and the colors will receive no injury. But before using it, brush the cushions
with a stiff hand-brush and a damp cloth, so as to take away all the dust.
A good way to clean straw matting after it is laid, is to sprinkle corn-meal over
it, or damp sand, and sweep it thoroughly out.
Windows Washed. — Windows are hard to wash, so as to leave them clear
and polished. First, take a wooden knife, sharp-pointed and narrow-bladed, and
pick out all the dirt that adheres to the sash ; dry whiting makes the glass shine nicely.
I have read somewhere, that weak black tea and alcohol is a splendid preparation
for cleaning the window-glass, and an economical way to use it would be to save the
tea-grounds for a few days, and then boil them over in two quarts of water and add a
little alcohol when cold. Apply with a newspaper and rub well off with another paper,
and the glass will look far nicer than when cloth is used.
The Beds.— When mattresses and feather-beds become soiled, make a paste of
soft-soap and starch, and cover the spots. As soon as it dries, scrape off the paste
and wash with a damp sponge. If the spots have not disappeared, try the paste
asrain. — Axnle R. W.
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 795
XXII. Household Hints.
Seventeen Pacts. — A good housekeeper kindly sends the following maxims and
recipes, " all warranted tried and approved:"
1 . Simple salt and water cleans and preserves matting more effectually than any
other method.
2. Tepid tea cleans grained wood.
3. Oil-cloth should be brightened, after washing with soap and water, with
skimmed milk.
4. Salt and water washing preserves bedsteads from being infected by vermin;
also, mattresses.
5. Kerosene oil is the best furniture oil; it cleanses, adds a polish, and pre- '
serves from the ravages of insects.
6. Green should be the prevailing color for bed hangings and window drapery.
7. Sal-soda will bleach; one spoonful is sufficient for a kettle of clothes.
8. Save your suds for the garden and plants, or to harden yards when sandy.
9. A hot shovel held over varnished furniture will take out spots.
10. A bit of glue dissolved in skimmed milk and water will restore old rusty crape.
11. Ribbons of any kind should be washed in cold suds and not rinsed.
12. If flat-irons are rough, rub them well with salt, and it will make them
smooth.
13. If you are buying a carpet for durability, you must choose small figures.
14. A bit of soap rubbed on the hinges of doors will prevent them from
creaking.
15. Scotch snuff, if put in the holes where crickets run out, will destroy them.
16. To get rid of moths and roaches from closets and bureau drawers, sprinkle
powdered borax over and around the shelves, and cover with clean paper
17. To remove grease-spots apply a stiff paste to the wrong side of the material
or garment ;• hang it up and leave it some time ; the grease will have been entirely
absorbed by the paste, which can then be rubbed off.
Furniture Doctored. — To take out bruises from furniture, wet the part with
warm water; double a piece of brown paper five or six times, soak it, and lay it on
the place ; apply on that a hot iron till the moisture is evaporated ; two or three
appUcations will raise the dent or bruise level with the surface. If the brijise be
small, merely soak it with warm water, and apply a red-hot iron very near the sur-
face; keep it continually wet, and in a few minutes the bruise will disappear. To
remove stains, wash the surface with stale beer or vinegar; the stains will be removed
by rubbing them with a rag dipped in spirits of salt. Ee-polish as you would new
work. If the work be not stained, wash with clean spirits of turpentine and re-polish
with furniture oil.
To Clean Looking-Glasses. — Wash a piece of soft sponge, remove all gritty
particles from it; dip it lightly into water, squeeze it out again, and then dip it into
796 THE HOME AND FARM MANTJAL.
spirits of wine; rub it over the glass, dust it -with powdered blue or whiting sifted
through muslin; remove it lightly and quickly with a clean cloth, and finish with a
silk handkerchief. If the glass be a large one, clean one-half at a time, otherwise
the spirits of wine will dry before it can be removed. If the frames are gilt, the
greatest care must be taken to prevent the spirits of wine from touching them. To
clean such frames, rub them well with a little dry cotton wool ; this will remove all dust
and dirt, M'ithout injury to the gilding. If the frames are varnished, they may be
rubbed with the spirits of wine, which will take out all the spots and give the varnish
a good polish. — Mattie M., Cleveland, O.
Fastening Window Sashes. — A convenient way to prevent loose window
sashes from rattling unpleasantly when the wind blows, is to make four one-sided
buttons of wood, and screw them to the stops, which are nailed to the face-casings of
the window, making each button of proper length to press the side of the sash
outward when the end of the button is turned horizontally. The buttons operate like
a cam. By having them of the correct length to crowd the sills of the sash outward
against the outer stop of the window frame, the sash will not only be held so firmly
that it cannot rattle, but the crack which admitted dust and a current of cold air will
be closed so tightly that no window strips will be required. The buttons should be
Tjlaced about half-way from the upper to the lower end of each stile of the sashes.
French Polish. — To one pint of spirits of wine add half an ounce of gum
shellac, half an ounce of gum lac, and half an ounce of gum sandarac; place the
whole over a gentle heat, frequently stirring till the gums are dissolved. Then make
a roller of list, put a portion of the mixture upon it, and cover that with a soft linen
rag, which must be shghtly touched with cold-drawn linseed oil. Rub them into the
.wood in a circular direction, covering only a small space at a time, till the pores of
the wood are filled up. Finish in the same manner with spirits of wine with a small
porti(jn of the polish added to it. If the article to be polished has been previously
waxed, it must be cleaned off with the finest sand-paper.
Restoring Furniture. — An old cabinet-maker writes that the best preparation
for cleaning picture-frames and restoring furniture, especially that somewhat marred
or scratched, is a mixture of three parts of linseed oil and one part spirits of turpen-
tine. It not only covers the disfigured surface, but restores the wood to its original
color, and leaves a luster upon the surface. Put on with a flannel, and when dry,
rub with a clean soft wooden cloth.
Rough on Grease. — The following will be found a most excellent preparation
for taking grease-spots from carpets or other fabrics : Four ounces white Castile soap,
four ounces alcohol, two ounces ether, three ounces ammonia, one ounce glycerine.
Cut the soap fine ; dissolve In one quart soft water over the fire ; then add four quarts
more soft water, after which add the spirits, and bottle. Cork tight. . Apply with
a stiff brush, and rinse. «
To Brighten Carpets. — Dissolve a handful of alum in a pail of water, dip
your broom in, shaking it well, and sweep a small space. Then re-dip the broom, and
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 797
sweep as before, until you have gone over the whole carpet. You cannot imagine how
it will renew the colors in the carpet, especially green. — Housekeeper.
Laying Down Oil-Cloths. — Oil-cloths always come in rolls. The nearer we
buy, says a correspondent, towards the last end of the piece the more they will shrink
after laying them down. To prevent this, unroll them, place them smoothly on
the floor wrong side up, and use them so for a week or even two. Then turn
them, and tack them to the floor. This method prevents their pulling up and crack-
ing, as we often see new oil-cloth do.
Cleaning Gold Chains. — Put the chain in a small glass bottle, with warm
water, a little tooth-powder and some soap. Cork the bottle, and shake it for a minute
violently. The friction against the glass polishes the gold, and the soap and chalk
extract every particle of grease and dirt from the interstices of a chain of the most
intricate pattern ; rinse it in clear, cold water, and wipe with a towel.
To Whiten Ivory. — Boil alum in water; into this immerse your ivory, and let
it remain one hour; then rub the ivory with a cloth, wipe it clean with a wet linen rag,
and lay it in a moistened cloth to preVent its drying too quickly, which causes it to
crack.
XXIII. Toilet Recipes,
To Remove Freckles. — Take one ounce Venice soap, one-half ounce lemon-
juice, one-quarter ounce oil bitter almonds, one-quarter ounce deliquated oil of
tartar, three drops oil of rhodium. Dissolve the soap in lemon-juice, and add the
two oils.. Place in the sun until it becomes an ointment. Then add the rhodium.
Anoint at night with this ointment, then wash in the morning with pure water, or
mixture of elder-blows and rosewater. — H. B., Zanesville, Wis.
Pace Wash. — Take a small piece of gum benzoin, boil in spirits of wine until
it is a rich tincture. Use fifteen drops in a glass of water, three or four times a day.
Let it remain on to dry. It is very efficacious in removing spots, eruptions, etc. —
Mary R., Cedar Falls, Iowa.
Curling False Hair. — ^Wind the hair on smooth round sticks about as large as
a curling iron, fasten the ends firmly to the stick, then wind over the hair a strip of
cloth, which must also be fastened at the ends, put in a dish of warm water sufficient
to cover, and let it boil two hours. Remove from the water and place in a moder-
ately heated oven to remain until nearly dry, when they should be placed in the sun
or near the stove until they are perfectly dry, when they may be unwound from the
sticks and brushed over the finger. If too dry or not sufficiently glossy, put a little
oil on the brush. Care should be taken while the hair is in the oven that it does not
become too warm. — "Perdu."
Stimulant for the Hair. — One of the best stimulants to promote the growth
of the hair, when there is danger of baldness, and to hasten growth, is as follows:
One pint alcohol, castor oil enough to take up the alcohol, two ounces spirits ammonia,
one-quarter ounce oil origanum, one-quarter ounce tincture cantharides. Shake all
well together before using. Apply about four times a week.
798 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Cleansing the Hair. — Use a tablespoonful or two of common spirits of harts-
horn, in a basin of water; then thoroughly wash the scalp and hair until they are
clean ; then wash with clean water, wipe dry, and apply a little light oil or pomade,
if needed, to prevent taking cold.
Another good hair-wash is : Beat the whites of four eggs to a froth, rub well into
the roots of the hair. Leave it to dry. Wash the head clean with equal parts rum
and rosewater.
Dandruff can be removed by washing the head with buttermilk ana thoroughly
cleansing with pure soft water afterward. — Farmer's Girl.
Glycerine Ointment. — A glycerine ointment for chaps and excoriations is
made as follows : One-half ounce spermaceti melted together with a drachm of white
wax and two fluid" ounces of oil of almonds by a moderate heat ; the mixture is poured
into a mortar, when a fluid ounce of glycerine is added to it and rubbed till the in-
gredients are thoroughly mixed and cold.
Court Plaster. — Soak isinglass in a little warm water for twenty-four hours ;
then evaporate nearly all the water by a gentle heat, dissolve the residue in a Uttle
proof spirits of wine, and strain the whole through a piece of open linen. The
strained mass should be a stiff jelly when cool. Now, extend a piece of silk on a
wooden frame and fix it tight with tacks and thread. Melt the jelly, and apply it to
the silk thinly and evenly with a hairbrush. A second coating must be applied when
the first has dried. When both are dry, cover the whole surface with two or three
coatings of balsam of Peru, applied in the same way.
XXIV. Home-Made Wines.
Temperance writes from Benton Harbor, Michigan : "I think you will find these
two recipes all right."
Unfermented Wine. — Take the pure juice of well-ripened grapes, put in a
porcelain kettle with about one pound of best white sugar to each gallon of juice, and
let it boil gently, skimming carefully. Let it simmer slowly till it is reduced about
one-fifth. Then bottle or can while hot, and you have a rich, refreshing drink.
Elderberry Wine. — To every quart of the berries put a quart of water and
boil for half an hour. Bruise from the skin and strain, and to every gallon of juice
add three pounds of double-refined sugar and one-quarter ounce of cream of tartar,
and boil for half an hour. Take a clean cask and put in it one pound of raisins to
every three gallons of wine, and a slice of toasted bread covered with good yeast.
When the wine has become quite cool, put it into a cask and place in a room of even
temperature to ferment. When this has fully ceased, put the bung in tight. No
brandy or alcohol should be added.
XXV. Home-Made Inks.
A GOOD black ink may be made as follows : One gallon of soft water, one-quar-
ter of a pound extract of logwood, twenty grains bichromate potash, fifteen grains
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 799
prussiate potash. Heat the logwood and water to a boUing point and skim well.
Dissolve the potash in one-half a pint of hot water and put all together, stirring well.
Boil three minutes; strain and it is fit for use. A few cloves put in each bottle will
prevent it from molding.
Ink not Injured by Freezing. — Take about one handful of maple bark — the
inside bark, the outside bark having been scraped off. Put it in three pints of water
and boil until the strength is all out of the bark ; then strain the bark out of the
ooze. Put in the ooze half a tablespoonful of copperas, and boil live or ten minutes
until the copperas is all dissolved. Keep stirring. This will make near one gill of
good ink that will not be injured by freezing. — J. E. L., Cambridge, Ind.
Indelible Ink.^Four drachms nitrate of silver, four ounces rainwater, six
drops solution of nut-galls, and one-half a drachm gum Arabic. This will make an
ink which will not fade, and costs very little.
Indelible Inks for Brushes. — For using with a marking-brush, an ink may
be made by diluting coal tar with benzine to a proper consistency, or equal parts of
vermilion and copperas may be rubbed up with oil varnish. Either of these holds
well on linen or cotton fabrics.
Ink for Zinc Labels. — An ink for zinc only, that will endure for years, cuts
slightly into metal, has a black color, and is as legible after a dozen years as when
newly written, is made as follows: One part verdigris, one part sal ammonia, half
part lampblack, and ten parts of water; mix well and keep in a bottle with a glass
stopper; shake the ink before using it. It will keep any length of time. Write it
on the label with a steel pen, not too fine pointed. It dries in a minute or two. —
Nurseryman.
XXVI. Recipes for Glue.
Isinglass and Spirits. — A strong and fine glue may be prepared with isinglass
and spirits of wine, thus : Steep the isinglass for twenty-four hours in spirits of wine
and common brandy; when opened and mollified, all must be gently boiled together
and kept well stirred until they appear well mixed, and a drop thereof, suffered to
to cool, presently turns to a strong jelly. Strain it while hot through a clean linen
cloth, into a vessel, to be kept close stopped. A gentle heat suffices to dissolve the
glue into an almost colorless fluid, but very strong, so that pieces of wood glued
together with it will sooner separate elsewhere than in the parts joined.
A Strong Cement, — Mix a handful of quicklime with four ounces of linseed
oil; boil them to a good thickness, then spread it on tin plates in the shade, and it will
become exceedingly hard, but maybe easily dissolved over a fire, as glue, and will
join wood perfectly. This glue will resist fire and water.
Cheap Water-Proof Glue. — A glue that will resist water to a considerable
degree is made by dissolving common glue in skimmed milk. Fine levigated chalk
added to the common solution of glue in water makes an addition which strengthens
it, and renders it suitable for sign-boards and things which must stand the weather.
800 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Paste That Will Keep. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of alum In a quart of water.
When cold, stir in as much flour as will give it the consistency of thick cream, being
particular to beat up all the lumps ; stir in as much powdered resin as will lie on a
dime, and throw in a half dozen cloves to give it a pleasant odor. Have on the fire a
teacupful of boiling water, pour the flour mixture into it, stirring well at the time.
In a very few minutes it will be of the consistency of mush. Pour it into an earthen
or china vessel; let it cool; lay a cover on, and put in a cool place. When needed
for use, take out a portion and soften it with warm water. Paste thus made will last.
It is better than gum, as it does not gloss the paper, and can be written on. — Amanda
D. I., Madison, Wis.
XXVII. The Dyer's Art.
The time is long sincj past when spinning and weaving constitute an important
part of rural economy. It will no longer pay even to dye old fabrics at home,
except in those sections far removed from dyer's establishments. It will not pay at
all, except for the most common fabrics. Rag carpets, however, have not gone out of
fashion, and they never should. If tastefully made, they are pretty, and for kitchen
and general family wear, certainly lasting. The recipes given by contributors fairly
include all the regular colors, and will show that this department of rural art is still
extensively practiced, for many still keep up the. knowledge of the art as much
because it amuses them as for any other reason.
XXVIII. Coloring Dres3 and Other Fabrics.
As to the stability of dyes imparted to silks, damasks and fabrics, used in fur-
nishing, an eminent French chemist has found that the blue colors produced by
indigo are stable ; Prussian blue resists moderately the action of air and light, but not
soap; scarlet and carmines, produced by cochineal and lac-dye, are last; the most
stable colors on silk are produced by weld
Mordants. — In colorings it is sometimes necessary to employ mordants, or
substances to "fix" color; they may even change a color; so, by mixing mordants,
different shades are produced. But it will not be necessary to enter into this subject
here. Where mordants are necessary, they will be given in the simple recipes. In rela-
tion to fixing colors generally, and this applies to washing, the following will be
useful :
Take a large double handful of bran, put it in a saucepan and set it over the
fire, allowing it to boil thoroughly in a quart of water. When thoroughly boiled,
strain the bran, and throw the water into that in which you are about washing your
lawn or chintz dress. . Let the dress soak for an hour or so in it before washing.
Instead of starch use a weak solution of glue-water, and iron on the wrong side
o
XXIX. Coloring— Yellow, Blue and Green.
Yellow. — Dissolve one-half pound sugar of lead in hot water; dissolve one-
fourth pound bichromate of potash in a vessel of wood, in cold water. Dip the
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 801
goods first in the lead-water, then in the potash, then alternate until the color suits.
This quantity answers for five pounds of goods.
Blue. — Dissolve one-fourth pound copperas in soft water, sufficient to color five
pounds of goods ; put in the goods and let them remain fifteen minutes ; then take
them out. Take clean soft water and dissolve two ounces prussiate of potash. Put
in the goods when it is milk-warm. Let them remain in this fifteen minutes ; then
take out the goods, and add one ounce of oil of vitriol to the potash dye when it is
only milk-warm; put in your goods again; boil for deep blue, and take out before
boiling for lighter shades.
Green. — Take the yellow dyed by the above recipe, and dye by the recipe
given for dyeing blue, and you will have a beautiful green. — N. B., Elm Grove, Mich.
Coloring Cotton. — To four pounds of rags take one and one-half ounces oxalic
acid, two ounces of Prussian blue ; let each soak over night in one quart of rain-
water, then put together in as much warm rain-water as you want to color with. Put
in the rags and let them be in twenty minutes. Wring out and dip in the following
yellow dye.
Take six ounces of sugar of lead, four and a half ounces of bichromate of pot-
ash; dissolve in a pint of hot rain-water. Take as much hot rain-water as you want
to color with. Dip first in the lead, then in the potash several times. Rinse in cold
rain-water. Use tin or copper — no simmering is needed. The first makes a blue, the
last a beautiful yellow, and both a durable green. — Mrs. Lizzie B., Rochester, la.
A Good Yellow. — Take bichromate of potash, one pound to a pailful of water ;
for blue, two boxes bluing. Color yellow first, then dip the goods, either cotton or
woolen, into the blue dye, and you have a deep durable green. Scald thoroughly. —
A. J. T., Algona, la
Coloring Cotton Red. — Take two pounds of Nicaragua, or red wood, four
ounces solution of tin. Boil the wood for an hour or more, turn off the dye into a tub
or pail. Then add the tin, and put in your cotton. Let it stand five minutes, and
you will have a nice red. — Mrs. H., Fort Atkinson, Wis.
Or this. — For four pounds of goods, take one pound of redwood. Steep in
cold water over night, then let it come to a boil. Skim out the chips ; wring out the
the goods in the dye, then add sufficient muriate of tin to set the color; return the
goods to the dye, let them remain until colored deep enough. Color in brass or tin.
— Eliza, Atchison, Kan.
Coloring Cotton Green, — Dissolve six ounces of sugar of lead in hot water,
four ounces bichromate potassa in warm water; dip the cloth in the sugar of lead,
wring out, then dip in the potassa. Dip three or four times, till a bright yellow is
obtained. When the cloth is dry, dissolve four ounces Prussian blue, four ounces
oxalic acid. Dissolve separately in warm water; then turn together, and dip your
cloth in the blue dye, and you will have a splendid green.
Prussian blue and oxalic acid make a beautiful blue for cotton. Dip three or
four times for a deep shade. Rinse in salt-water. — Mrs. D. B., Northfield, Minn.
51
802 THE HOME AXD FAEM JIAaSTAL.
Or this. — ^For five pounds of goods dissolve nine ounces sugar of lead in four
gallons rain-water. Dissolve in another vessel six ounces bichromate potash in four
gallons of rain-water. First, dye your goods blue (if j^ou Avish a dark green, you must
have a dark blue — if light green, a light blue). Dip the goods first in the lead-water,
then in the potash-water, and then again into the lead; wring out dry, and afterward
rinse in cold water. — IMes. E. ]M., Grand Mound, Iowa.
XXX. Scarlet and Pink.
Scarlet for Woollen Goods. — To each pound of goods take one ounce of pul-
verized cochineal, one-half ounce of cream-of-tartar, two ounces of muriate of tin.
Use soft water. Color in tin or copper. Let the water get a little warm before
putting the dye-stuff in. Stir well, so that all is dissolved, then put in the goods and
let them come to a boiling heat and simmer until the right shade is obtained. A
beautiful rose color cau be made by taking out when at that shade. It will not fade
by washing or wearing, but grow darker as all other scarlets do. This will not do for
cotton or silk. — Xbttie, Paris, Kentucky.
Pink. — -Take three parts- of oream-of-tartar and one of cochineal, nicely rubbed
together; tie a teaspoonful in a mustard bag. Put this with a quart of boiling water;
dip in the articles to be coloi'ed,, previously cleaned and dipped in alum water; if
wished stiff, put in a little gum arable. — C, Mansfield, Ohio.
XXXI. Coloring— Black, Brown and Slate.
Black. — Take one pound of extract of logwood. Put it in a kettle and fill it
half-full of water. Dissolve it the day before it is wanted, and pour half of it in a
kettle of water. Put in your j^arn and boil half an hour. Have ready a quarter of
a pound of copperas dissolved in another kettle and take out your yarn and pour in
half your copperas water again. Put in your yarn. Let it remain five minutes.
You will then have a nice black. When this is done, you can put in all of the rest of
your dye and throw in all your old black and gray rags and color them over. You
will thus have your rags in shape to take to the weaver's, and have a nice carpet. —
Mrs. J. N., Rockford, Illinois.
Brown. — For nine pounds of goods take one-half pound japonica, two ounces
blue vitriol, one ounce bichromate of potash. Dissolve the japonica in enough soft
water to cover the goods, and let them stay in all night. In the morning make a solu-
tion of the vitriol and potash ; wring the goods out of the other dye and let them
stand in this half an hour. The goods should simmer in both dj^es. For light brown
use a brass, and for a dark, a copper kettle, to make the dyes in. This is a good
recipe for coloring dress goods, as well as carpet rags. — Nellie B.
Brown With Catechu. — Take one pound of catechu extract and one-half
ounce of vitriol ; dissolve in rain water ; the catechu put in water enough to wet your
goods. Color in an iron kettle. Then put in your vitriol. Wet your goods in soap-
suds before putting in the dye. This is a fast color. — Blue Grass Brunette, Ky.
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 803
Slate Color. — Boil yellow oak bark in an iron kettle until the strength is extracted.
Take out the bark, then add a very little copperas and you have a pretty color. — M.
A. v., Nashville, Tenn. .
XXXII. Walnut Coloring— Black Walnut.
Witll Walnut Barks.— Walnut bark will color any shade from a light tan to
coal-black. Color the wool before carding as follows : Peel the bark from the body
of the tree — the bark of the root is the best. Put it into a barrel, a layer of the bark
and wool alternately, till you fill the barrel; then fill up the barrel with rainwater.
Lay on the top heavy weights. Let it stand in the sun or some warm place till you
get the shade required.
With. Blltternilt Bark. — Another way to color yarn, cloth or carpet rags, is
to boil a large iron kettleful of butternut-bark for four hours; take out the bark, put
in a spoonful of copperas. If you wish a black put in more copperas or a little
blue vitriol — ^too much vitriol rots the goods. Then while the dye is boiling, put in
the goods and keep stirring and once every few minutes lift the goods with a stick
into the air, then put them under. And so on keep watching and moving them till
you get the shade required. If left folded or packed too tight they will spot. — Sarah
A. B., Shellsburg, Iowa.
Nearly Black. — Put the bark in an iron kettle, and boil until the strength is all
out; then skim out, and add about one teaspoonful of copperas to set the color, air-
ing the goods while boiling. If you wish to color woollens, omit the copperas. — H.
L. S., Bainbridge, Mich.
Butternut and Black- Walnut. — Peel the bark when the sap is up; put in a
kettle, cover with water and let stand until it sours; then boil an hour, throw out the
bark and put in the yarn, (woollen wet in soapsuds) cover it over with the bark and
weight it down in the dye. Let stand for a day, then wring it and hang it out in the
air for half a day. If it is not dark enough re-heat the dye, put back the yarn and
let it stand as long again. It will be a nice brown that won't fade with washing.
Black walnut colors the darkest. I believe it would color black by having the dye
very strong and airing it often. — C. L., Adair, Mich.
Hickory-Bark Color. — Hickory bark will color a beautiful bright yellow, that
will not fade by use. It will color cotton and wool. Have the bark shaved off or
hewed off, and chopped in small pieces, and put in a brass kettle or tin boiler, with
soft-water enough to cover the bark, and boil until the strength is out ; then skim out
the chips and put in alum . Have it pounded pretty fine. For a pailful of dye I
should put in two good handfuls, and wet the goods in warm water so there will be no
dry spots on them; wring them as dry as you can, shake them out and put them into
the dye. Have a stick at hand to push them down and stir them immediately, so
they can have a chance all over alike. If the color is not deep and bright enough,
raise the goods out of the dye, lay them across a stick over the kettle, and put in
another handful of alum. Stir it well and dip again. It will want to be kept in the
804 THE HOME AND FAUM MAlfDAIi.
dye and over the fire to a scalding heat about an hour, but keep stirring and airing, so
they will not spot. ,
XXXIII. Coloring Carpet Rag^
Drab, Green, etc. — S. P., Lapeer City, Mich., who not only colors, but weaves
her own carpets, gives the following: To color drab: Save your cold tea and put a
little copperas in it. Boil it up and skim it, and then put in your goods and let them
remain a short time.
To color cotton green: First color blue, and then put them in a yellow dye.
To color blue : For four pounds one ounce prussiate potash, one ounce copperas,
one ounce of alum. Dissolve the alum and copperas in water enough to wet the
goods. Then put them in the potash, and let them remain ten minutes ; then put in
the copperas and alum. Let the dye be hot.
To color yellow : Take eight ounces sugar of lead, four ounces bichromate potash.
Dissolve the sugar of lead in hot water, in a jar. Dip the goods in the sugar of lead
first, and then in the potash, alternatelj-, till you have the color desired. This will
color six pounds.
Yellow and Blue. — For each pound of cotton rags, take one ounce of sugar of
lead, dissolve in warm water, put in a brass or copper kettle. Heat it to a scalding
heat and put in the rags. Let them remain in half an hour; then dissolve one ounce
of bichromate potash in warm water in a wooden dish. Take the rags out, dip in the
potash, wring out and air. Repeat until you use the dye up. You will have a beau-
tiful yellow. Be sure and use soft water.
To color blue : to five pounds of cotton rags take five ounces prussiate of potash,
five ounces copperas and two ounces oil vitrei. Take the copperas and potash, put in
a copper or brass vessel, heat it till well dissolved. Put in the rags, and scald from
eleven to thirty minutes. Take out and cool. Add oil vitrol, then dip and take out.
Hang in the shade. You can take more white rags and make a pale blue by dipping
in after this. Put your yellow rags in this same blue dye, and you will have a nice
green. Hold some in your hand and put in the dye in places, and it will be clouded
yellow and green. This must be in soft water, also. Then hang in the shade, and
when dr}', rinse in warm water. — Mks. J. X., Seward, III.
Green. — For five pounds of white cotton rags reeled in skeins, I take one pail
of the inner bark of yellow oak, cut in fine chips, and boil it two hours in three pails
of soft water, in either tin, brass or copper. Then skim out the bark and add one-
fourth of an ounce of alum. While the dj^e is boiling, take three ounces of Prussian
blue, tie it up in a strong cotton rag, and rub it in enough soft water to thoroughly
wet the rags; squeeze and turn them in the blueing nearly half an hour. Wring
them out and take as many as you can handle at one time and put them in the hot
dye, stir them around a few seconds and take them out ; then put in more until you
have them all green. Do not leave them in the dye a minute for it will soak out the
blue. The rags may need to be dipped more than once. This color will not fade.
If light green is desired, use less blue. — Mes. A. G., Ontario, Ind.
CONTRIBUTIONS FROM FRIENDS ON HOUSEHOLD ECONOMY. 805
Green and Red. — To color carpet-rags green : to five pounds of cotton cloth,
take one pound of fustic and four ounces of chip logwood ; soak in a brass kettle
over night; heat the dye, then add two ounces of blue vitriol; wet the cloth in suds.
When the dye is boiling hot put in the cloth.
For coloi'ing red, for five pounds of goods, take one pound of redwood, steep
in cold water over night, then let it come to a boil, skim out the chips, wring out the
goods in the dye, then add sufficient muriate of tin to set the color ; return the goods
to the dye, let them remain until nearly colored deej) enough; color in brass or tin. —
Ella T. B., Groveport, O.
Blue and Yellow. — I first color blue, then yellow. Take one ounce prussiate
of potash, one tablespoon of copperas, one ounce oil of vitriol. Bring to a boil.
Then put in the goods for twenty minutes, skimming often. This is sufficient for
five pounds.
To color yellow, dissolve one and a half pounds sugar of lead in hot water,
one and a half ounces bichromate of potash, dissolved in a vessel of wood in cold
water. Dip first in lead water, then in the potash, and alternate until the color suits.
— Mrs. -H. a. B., Pompeii, Mich.
Part IX.
PRACTICAL, COMMON SENSE HOME COOKING.
KITCHEN ECONOMY AND KITCHEN AET.
OUR EVERY-DAY EATING AND DRINKING.
RECIPES EOR ALL STYLES OF COOKING.
EXCELLENT DISHES CHEAPLY MADE.
ECONOMY OF A VARIED DIET.
PRACTICAL, COMMON SENSE HOME COOKING.
CHAPTEE I.
/
THE LARDER AND KITCHEN.
I. THE MEAT-ROOM. II. HANGING, TESTING AND PEESEEVING POEK, ETC. III. MUTTON AND
LAMB. IV. CALTES AND THEIE EDIBLE PARTS V. BEEF ON THE FARM. VI. THE KITCHEN.
VII. THE FLOOR, WALLS AND FURNITURE. VIH. CLEANLINESS INDISPENSABLE. IX. KITCHEN
UTENSILS. X. CHEMISTRY OF THE KITCHEN. XI. THE COMPONENT PARTS OF MEAT. XIL
AFAMOUS COOK ON BOILING. XIII. BOILED AND STEWED DISHES. XIV. HOW TO STEW.
I. The Meat-Rooin.
|HE larder is the place where meat and other food are kept. On the farm it is
especially necessary that a place be provided where fresh meat may remain
''^y sweet, to ensure a regular supply, and thus avoid a diet of salt meat in summer.
There are pigs, sheep, lambs and calves available, and even the quarters of a
fat heifer may be used on the larger farms. Or the meat, not required, may be
economically distributed among neighbors not so well situated. It is only a question
of ice and a suitable room, as shown in Part IV., Chapter III., Section XVII., " The
Ice-House and Preservatory." The illustrations in this chapter will show, not only
the dressed meat hung, but also, by figures, the manner of cutting it up. Another
advantage of such a meat-room is that the meat placed in it, after killing, ripens
slowly without tainting, and is both more tender and more nutritious.
II. Hanging, Testing and Preserving Pork, etc.
Meat, after being killed and somewhat cooled, may be hung up whole, in quar-
ters, or cut as shown in the diagram of Hog Figured for Cutting. In which of these ■
ways it shall be hung will depend entirely upon the space in the cooling-house. Pork
should be firm and white as to its fat; the lean flesh light in color and fine in grain ;
the skin fine and smooth. The fat must be without kernels, since these indicate that
the pig may be "measly." If the flesh is clammy to the touch, it is bad.
Cooling. — Pork is at its best when it has become fully cold. All other animal
meats of the farm require longer hanging to reduce the fiber, and this is especially .
true of game. Fowls require to be kept longer than pork, but not so long as
mutton ; veal and lamb coming next to pork in the shortness of time they should be
hung before cooking. Next come fowls and next beef. Mutton and venison ripen,
for cooking, more slowly than other meat.
[8091
810
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
"Ripe" Meat. — No meat should be allowed to taint in the remotest degree
before being cooked. The. term " ripe" is used to denote that stage when the meat
acquires tenderness, and before any change toward taint has been acquired.
Cutting up a Hog. — The head should be taken off at the dotted line behind
the ears as shown in the diagram. The curve, 1-2, is the line of cutting to get a
shoulder of pork; 3, is the belly or bacon piece; 4, is the neck and long ribs or
fore-loin; 5, the sirloin, called the hind-loin in pork; 6, is the ham. The other side
HOG FIGURED FOK CUTTING.
of the hog will give corresponding pieces. The roasting pieces of fresh pork are the
spare-ribs, loin and leg. The other pieces are salted. The hind and fore-legs are
made into hams and shoulders for smoking, and the side and flitches (belly) into
bacon.
Good Bacon. — Good bacon has a thin rind, firm, pinkish fat when cured, and
firm lean, adhering to the bone. Eusty bacon has yellowish streaks in it. If a clean
thin blade or a skewer stuck into a ham or shoulder of cured smoked meat smells
clean and without taint, when withdrawn, the meat is good, for the least taint will
immediately be evident to the nostril.
THE LARDER AND KITCHEN.
III. Mutton and Lamb.
811
Boiled mutton and caper sauce (the garden nasturtium makes a good substitute
for the caper), roast mutton and Worcestershire sauce, lamb and mint sauce, and
lamb with green peas, are dishes good enough for anybody, and any farmer may have
them.
When Mutton is Best. — ^A fat wether makes the best mutton, and the mutton
is better if the animal is over three years of age when killed, than if younger. It
DEESSED OAECASS OF MUTTON.
should be dark and fat. A fat, grass-fed mutton of five years old may be had on the
farm. It is seldom found at the butcher's. Those who do not know mutton ask for
yearling mutton. This is neither mutton nor lamb.
Cutting up a Sheep. — The saddle of mutton is the best part; the haunch next.
The saddle comprises the two loins undivided; the leg and loin, separated, are the
next best pieces. Chops and cutlets are cut from the loin; the cutlets from the thick
end ; they are also taken from the best end of the neck and from the leg, though
those from the leg really should be called steaks The leg is often salted like a ham
812
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
of pork, and sometimes smoked ; the breast is sometimes pickled and then boiled.
The scrag is considered good stewed with rice. In the diagram of Dressed Carcass
of Mutton, 1 is the leg, 2 the loin, 3 the ribs, 4 and 5 the neck, 6 the shoulder, 7
the breast. 1 and 2 together constitute the hind-quarter, and 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7, the
fore-quai'ter.
Lamb. — A lamb should be young — six weeks to ten weeks old — the flesh of a
pale red, and, of course, fat ; a lean lamb is not worth killing. In selecting lambs,
many will be found under-sized, but fat. They are the ones for the pot. All animals
should be carefully bled in killing, and small animals hung up before their throats are
cut. This is easy enough with lambs and sheep. All parts of the lamb may be
roasted, but the thin and flank portions are best stewed.
DRESSED LAMB.
Cutting Up a Lamb. — The diagram of Dressed Lamb shows the several parts
for cutting: l,the lag; 2, the loin; 3, the shoulder; 4, the breast; 5, the ribs; 3, 4,
5, the fore-quarter; 1 and 2, hind-quarter. • Lamb steaks are called chops and cutlets,
and are taken from the same parts as in mutton.
IV. Calves and their Edible Parts.
Veal should be young, say from six to eight weeks old ; the flesh pale, dry and
fine in grain. Veal makes the richest soup, and is much used for stock for that and
THE LARDER AND KITCHEN.
813
gravies. All parts of the dressed animal may be used. The head is a delicacy. The
feet make a firm jelly, and are good boiled or stewed. The loin, fillet and shoulder,
are the usual roasting joints. The breast is also sometimes roasted, but is better
stewed.
Cutting Up Veal. — The cutlets are taken from the loin and occasionally from
the hind leg. In the diagram of Carcass of Veal: 1, is the loin; 2, rump end of
OAKCASS OB" VEAL
loin; 3, leg or round; 4, hock; 5, fore-leg; 6, chine; 7, meek; 8, shoulder; 9, ribs;
10, breast or brisket; 11, head.
v. Beef on the Farm.
Whether the farmer can afford to kill a heifer or a steer for summer meat will
depend upon the size of the family, the number of hands employed, the facilities for
preserving the meat, or those for selling or exchanging with neighbors. In the winter
there is no reason why the family should not be liberally supplied, both on the score
of taste and economy. Beef is the favorite rheat, and it is economy to kill it at
814
THE HOME AXD FARM MANUAL.
home rather than buj' it cut ready for cooking, unless the butcher can serve the family
every day. In the latter case it may be economy to sell the steer or heifer and buy
back such meat as is wanted.
Cutting up an Ox. — In the diagram of Dressed Ox, 1 is the sirloin; 2, top,
aitch or edge-bone as it is indifferently called; 3, rump; 4, round or buttock; 5,
mouse or lower buttock ; 6, veiny piece; 7, thick flank: 8, thin flank; 9, leg; 10,
fore-rib (containing five ribs); 11, middle-rib (containing four ribs); 12, chuck-rib
DEEbSED OX.
(containing three ribs); 13, shoulder, or leg of mutton piece; 14, brisket; 15,
clod; 16, sticking piece or blood piece; 17, shin; 18, cheeks or head.
Choice Parts. — The ribs and sirloin are the best for roasting (the middle rib
piece, 11, is the best of all). The best steaks come from the chump end of the sir-
loin, next to 2 ; it has a good tender-loin or fillet. The rump is the next best roasting
piece, regarded by many epicures as the most choice. The soup pieces are the more
bony parts, as 9, 16, 17, etc; 6, 7, 8, 13, 14 and 15 are corning pieces; 13 and 14,
containing the brisket and the plates, are the best of these.
THE LARDER AND KITCHEN.
815
VI. The Kitchen.
The appointments should be as pex'fect as possible, and all that may save labor
provided. The best stove or range and fixtures should be put in, and closets and
pantries made with drawers for culinary articles ; sinks with proper waste pipes and
fixtures; towel racks, hooks and the many little things that go to hghten labor and
make cooking a pleasure rather than a drudgery.
Why should the wife or daughter, who stands over the heated stove, be made to
run perhaps two or three hundred feet for fuel when a very little time of the men in
the morning and evening might supply the wood or coal box ? Why should the cook
ever be obliged to use green wood when proper forethought would supply fuel
already seasoned?
Some ignorant people think that green wood makes a hotter fire than dry wood.
It does nothing of the kind. It takes longer to burn, of course, and is more vexa-
tious in every way.
TOWEL RACK.
TOWEL ROLLER. ^
CLOTHES BARS.
VII. The Ploor, Walls and Furniture.
The floor of the kitchen, unless covered with an oil-cloth, should be of ash,
thoroughly seasoned, of full inch-thick stuff. The plank not more than four inches
wide, being tongued, grooved, well driven together and "bhnd nailed."
The walls and ceiling, when not wainscotted, should be kalsomined, or painted
and varnished so they can be easily washed. They may be papered, but if so, after
the paper is thoroughly dry it should have two or three coats of varnish so that the
walls may be washed as often as necessary.
The furniture should be solid and simple; the table, or tables, provided with
816
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
drawers: the chairs wood-bottomed or cane-seated. The stove must be heavy to be
lasting, with plenty of oven room, and with the addition of a warm oven to be most
economical..
VIII. Gleauliaess Indispensable.
In the kitchen absolute cleanliness is indispensable. It is virtue everywhere. Here
it is a necessity. It is also" economical, for however dirty a kitchen, cleaning time
must come, and it is easier and more healthful to clean often than seldom. Every
utensil should be thoroughly cleaned and dried each time it is used, and all bright sur-
faces carefully polished. We do not advise that the stove be blackened every day; a
clean, unblacked stove in a clean kitchen is pleasant to look upon.
IX. Kitchen Utensils.
Avoid inventions that contain in one and the same implement everything from a
cover-lifter to a meat-broiler. We give a very moderate list of utensils for a well-
EEFEIGERATOR.
MEAT-CUTTER.
equipped kitchen; it may be taken from or added to, as occasion requires: One soup-
pot; two vegetable-pots; one stew-kettle; one teakettle ; one coffeepot; two enam-
eled sauce-pans ; two enameled stew-pans ; one meat-broiler ; one bread-toaster ; two
frying-pans; one Bain-marie-pan; one omelet-pan; two pudding-moulds; two jelly-
moulds ; one rolling-pin ; one flour-dredge ; one pepper-dredge ; one salt-dredge ; one
meat-chopper; one colander; one fish and egg slice; one marble slab for pastry; one
steamer for potatoes, etc. ; one coffee-mill.
To these maybe added, pans, ladles, knives, skewers,. baking-pans and moulds;
scales, meat-forks, wooden and iron spoons, fish-sealers, egg-beater, steak-beater,
and in lieu of the marble slab, a smooth, hard-wood board for moulding bread. A
"Bain-marie" may be improvised from any flat-bottomed pan that will hold one or
THE LARDEB AND KITCHEN.
817
a number of small sauce-pans, its principal use being when filled with boiling water
and placed where it will keep hot, to simnler sauces, entrees, etc. The list might be
FAMttY MEATCLEAVEE.
added to indefinitely. "With those we have mentioned almost any dish may be pre-
pared, except that of meat roasted before a fire.
X. Chemistry of the Kitchen.
Cooking is simply change produced chemically through heat. Condiments are
for giving, or adding, zest to flavors. The chemistry of bread-making is to cause it
to rise "light," through the action of carbonic acid gas, which is done by adding
yeast, or the combination of an alkali and an acid. Soup-making consists in extracting
the nutritious constituents of meat by long-continued and slow boiling.
SOUP DIGESTER.
MOETAES AND PESTLES.
Violent boiling should never be allowed with meat of any kind. For soups,
stews and other dishes where the juices are to be extracted and form a component
part of the soup, the meat should only be simmered. When the nutriment is to be
retained in the meat, it should be put into boiling water and made to cook up quickly.
This coagulates the albumen which sutrounds the fiber of the meat and prevents the
escape of the Juices. A good mortar is often useful in the kitchen. The cuts show
sizes ranging from 1 pint to 1 gallon.
XI. The Oomponent Parts of Meat.
Animal flesh, and, of course, this includes that of birds, is composed of the fiber,
fat, albumen, gelatine and osmazone.
52
818
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Pat and Fiber. — The fiber cannot be dissolved. The fat is nearly pure cai'bon,
contained in cells covered with membrane. The application of a boiling heat bursts
the cells, and the fat, which melts at a much less temperature than the boiling point
of water, is set free and floats on the top of the boiling water.
The Albumen. — Albumen is a substance well known as composing the white of
eggs ; the albumen of flesh is similar. Its office is to keep the fibers from becoming
haid. Under the influence of heat it coagulates, and prevents the fibers from becom-
ing dry. It is more abundant in young than in old animals. The more albumen the
flesh contains, the more tender it is.* Hence, also, the flesh of young animals is
whiter than that of old ones. If soup is to be made, the meat must be heated very
slowly, in order that the albumen may not be coagulated too quickly; but if the meat
is to be eaten, heat it to the boiling point quickly, to coagulate the albumen, and thus
retain the gelatine and the osmazone, the latter of which gives flavor to the meat.
The Gelatine. — Gelatine is the glutinous substance of flesh. It is without
flavor, but extremely nutritious ; from it is made jelly. It has the power of dissolv-
ing bone. Powdered bones are completely dissolved in it. Bones contain much
gelatine, two ounces having as much as a pound of meat. Hence, the economy of
having much bone in the soup meat, or that for stews, etc.
The Osmazone. — Osmazone flavors meat. The flesh of young animals contains
less than that of old ones ; the flesh of young animals is more insipid. Eoasting,
baking, or other dry process of cooking intensifies
the flavor of meat, by acting strongly on the
osmazone.
Vegetables with Meats. — Many people
are perplexed to know just what vegetables are
most proper for different meats. Potatoes should
be eaten with all meats. "When fowls are
eaten for dinner, the potatoes should be mashed.
Carrots, parsnips, turnips, greens and cabbage are
used with boiled meats. Mashed turnips and
apple-sauce are indispensable to roast pork.
Tomatoes are good with every kind of meat, and
at every meal. Cranberry or currant sauce is
nice with beef, fowls, veal and ham. Many like
currant jelly with roast mutton. Pickles are
suitable to be eaten with all roast meats, and
capers or nasturtiums are nice with boiled lamb
or mutton. Horseradish and lemons are excellent
with veal, while no dinner-table is complete with-
out a variety of relishes, such as Worcestershire sauce, chow-chow, mushroom or
tomato catsup. Tobasco sauce is the best preparation of Chili pepper.
POTATO RIASHER.
TINNED SKEWERS.
THE LAEDEE AND KITCHEN.
819
XII. A Famous Cook on Boiling'.
Careme, a celebrated French cook, says of soup: The good housewife puts her
meat into an earthen stock-pot, and pours on cold water in the proportion of two
quarts of water to three pounds of beef . She sets it by the fire. The pot becomes
gradually hot, and as the water heats, it dilates the muscular fibers of the flesh by
dissolving the gelatinous matter which covers them, and allows the albumen to detach
itself easily and rise to the surface in light foam or scum, while the osmazone, which
is the savory juice of the meat, dissolving little by little, adds flavor to the broth.
By this simple process of slow boiling or simmering, the housewife obtains a savory
and nourishing broth and a bouilli (boiled meat), which latter is tender and of good
flavor.
As to the reverse way of boiling, he says: If you place the, pot au feu (or soup-
pot), on too hot a fire, it boils too soon; the albumen coagulates and hardens; the
water, not having the necessary time to penetrate the meat, hinders the osmazone from
disengaging itself, and the sad result is, you have only a hard piece of boiled meat and
a broth without flavor or goodness. A little fresh water poured into the pot at
intervals, helps the scum to rise more abundantly.
WOODEN STEAK MAUX.
MEAT block:.
XIII. Boiled and Stewed Dishes.
Soup should be gently simmered at least four or five hours, but longer is better.
The meat should be put in a thoroughly clean pot, with the amount of cold water
heretofore directed ; it should be frequently skimmed to remove the suet, and salted
and peppered to taste ; when vegetables are used they should be sliced ; twenty min-
utes should cook them; rice, dumplings, etc., should be added the last of all to
thicken it.
Joints of meat for boiling should be washed clean, skewered into shape, put into
the saucepan, or into a kettle having a tight lid, then well covered with cold water,
and set over a moderate fire. As the scum rises, skim; and keep the cover tight
when not skimming. It must be skimmed at least once before, or just at the time
the water begins to boil. If this is delayed, the scum will fall back upon the meat
and disfigure it. Salted meat requires a longer time to boil than fresh meat, and
salted meat should be freshened by soaking before boiling. Smoked and dried meats
require a still longer time for boiling than those only salted.
There are two things to remember in boiling: 1, neither allow the water to
820
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
boil violently, nor to cease simmering; 2, keep the meat covered, by adding boiling
water, if necessary.
If the meat is required to be light in color, wrap it in a clean white linen cloth.
The cloth intended for this purpose must be boiled in pure water after being taken
from the meat, carefully dried, and not allowed to get damp, else it will be musty.
The time for boiling is from fifteen to twenty minutes for each pound of meat, the
boiling to be uniform throughout.
BOUND-BOTTOM POT.
SEAMLESS GEANITE STEWKETTLB.
XIV, Sow to Stew.
Stewing is slowly simmering in a tight yessel. The liquid should never actually
boil. The fire must be slow and the process continued until the meat is quite tender.
If only the pure gravy is desired the meat is put into a close jar and this placed in a
stewpan of water. If the meat is stewed in water this must be graduated, so that,
when done, the gravy will be of the required thickness. If vegetables are used,
twenty minutes will suffice to cook them, if they are properly sliced. Stewing is
simply slow cooking or gentle simmering in a vessel closed as tight as possible, and
with very little water. A digester is a form of stewpan, closed steam tight. This
process will, if long continued, disintegrate the bones.
CHAPTEE II.
SOME USEFUL RECIPES.
VEGETABLE SOUP. II. CLEAR BEEP SOUP. III. SOUPS OF VARIOUS MEATS. IV. FISH SOUPS.
V. BOILED DISHES. VI. STEWING. VII. HOW TO MAKE STOCK. VIII. TO CLARIFY STOCK OR
SOUP. — -IX. TO COLOR SOUPS. X. BOASTED AND BAKED MEATS. XI. BEEF A LA MODE. XII.
PREPAEING THE BOAST. XIII. BOAST SADDLE OP VENISON. XIV. FOWL AND TUBKEY. XV.
BAKED HAM. XVI. BAKED BEANS. XVII. BBOILING AND FRYING. XVIII. PREPAEED DISHES
BAKED. XIX. PASTRY FOB MEAT PIES. ^XX. INGREDIENTS FOB MEAT PIES. XXI. DISHES OF
EGGS. XXH. STEAMED DISHES.
I. Vegetable Soup.
Sims is the soup most commonly made in the United States ; it is excellent with
\ the family dinner. Take a beef shank, crush the bone and put into cold water.
I'w' Bring it to a boil and skim. Cook four hours, so that when done there shall
K be about two quarts of soup to each three or four pounds of meat. If turnips
and carrots are used, put them in sliced as soon as the liquid is first skimmed. When
SOUP OB STEW POT AND LID.
SKILLET AND LID.
the soup is half done, add a pint of peeled tomatoes for each gallon of soup, and in
an hour more half a pint of young okra sliced. Half an hour before it is served,
add a quarter of a pound of sliced potatoes, and the same of green corn grated from
the cob. The season of the year and the opportunities for getting vegetables will
readily suo-gest substitutes. If okra or tomatoes cannot be had, thicken with a little
flour and rice. If onions are liked, flavor with them, but lightly, and also with salt
and pepper.
II. Clear Beef Soup.
Only the flesh of young animals should be used for soup. The flesh of very
did animals will not make really good soup. Take four pounds of lean beef and a
knuckle of veal ; put into a suitable quantity of water ; when it has been skimmed
18211
822 THE HOME AND FARM JIANUAL.
add two or three thin strips of pork and a tablespoonful of butter, two onions, stuck
with six cloves each, and a blade of mace. Continue to skim as may be necessary,
and then let it just simmer for at least five hours more. Drop in a small bunch of
parsley half an hour before it is done. Before sending to the table strain through a
clean cloth, and color suitably with burnt sugar.
III. Soups of Various Meats.
Soup is made of various meats, of chicken, and also of fish. Broths are thin
soups, and the meat from .which they are made is also to be eaten separately; yet
most cooks are in the habit of calling them soups. Thus vermicelli, macaroni, noodle and
okra soups are thickened with these ingredients, and are made with chicken, beef or
veal.
Mutton Brotll. — To six pounds of neck of mutton take three quarts of water,
carrots, turnips and potatoes. Soak the mutton in cold water for an hour; cut off the
scrags and all the fat, and put into the stew-pan with three quarts of water. It must
be simmered three hours, skimming thoroughly. The carrots, turnips and onions,
cut into suitable pieces, are added after the first skimming, and also four tablespoon-
fuls of pearl barley. Half an hour before taking from the fire add a little chopped
parsley and serve hot. Serve the meat separately, divided into cutlets of two bones
each.
Okra Soup. — Take two chickens, three strips' of sweet bacon, or a quarter of a
pound of ham, one quart of tomatoes, four pints of okra and two onions. Fry the
chicken, bacon and onions in a skillet. When done, pour on water and rinse into the
soup-kettle, with plenty of water ; put in the tomatoes. Cook the okra in a sauce-pan.
When the meat has cooked so it may be pulled from the bone, pour through a col-
ander, add the bacon or ham, and the tomatoes from the colander; put back the soup
again to boil, pull the chicken from the bone, add the okra and let it cook until thick
enough. If the chicken is chopped fine before being put in, and the whole stewed
down pretty thick and ladled upon rice, boiled just so the grains are separate and
distinct, it makes an excellent gumbo, which is still better if a little sweet cream is
added to the boiling rice, and the soup seasoned with cayenne pepper, black pepper
and salt. But it is generally made by adding the rice and cream to the soup.
Cabbage Soup. — Take a large cabbage, three carrots, two onions, five slices
lean bacon, salt and pepper to taste, two quarts of medium stock. Scald the cabbage,
cut it up and drain it. Line the stewpan with the bacon, put in the cabbage, carrots
and onions. Moisten with sldmmings from the stock. Simmer very gently until the
cabbage is tender. Add the stock, stew softly for half an hour, and carefully skim
off every particle of fat. Season and serve. It takes one hour and a half to cook.
This is a splendid soup for cool weather, and this quantity is sufficient for eight
persons.
Corn Soup. — Take eight large ears, cut off the grains and scrape the cobs.
Cover this with water, (not too much) and boil until perfectly done. Add two quarts
SOME trSEFUL RECIPES. 823
of milk, let it come to a boil; stir In two tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in a table-
spoonful of flour, let the whole boil ten minutes ; have ready the yolks of three eggs
well beaten, pour the soup on them, stirring hard all the time. Serve immediately
after seasoning to taste.
Pea Soup. — This may be made with any meat. It is generally made with a
fowl. Take half of a fried or broiled chicken and simmer for two and a half hours
in a gallon of water and with a quart of clean shells of green peas. Strain through a
colander and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour, one cup of cream ; to be cooked
half an hour before serving. A quart of green peas may be cooked with the soup,
and when done, mashed and returned to the soup.
Bean Soup. — One teacupful of beans soaked over night is to be used with
each quart of water and half a pound of meat. Simmer for four hours. Take out
the beans, mash, and strain through a colander with the soup, leaving out the bits of
meat and bone ; return to the soup-pot and simmer a little longer, with stirring.
Season to the taste. Pea soup may be made by using peas instead of beans.
PORCELAIN-LINED KETTLE— FOE FISH. BEASS KETTLE.
IV. Pish Soups.
Soup may be made of any hard-fleshed fish. They should be carefully cleaned,
skinned and cut into fillets Then cut out of the fillets, with a cutter, as many round
pieces, an inch in size, as possible. Put the head, bones, and all the trimmings into a
saucepan, with one quart of stock, a large handful of parsley, a piece of celery, one
onion stuck with two cloves, a blade of mace, and pepper and salt to taste. Let
this boil slowly from three to four hours, skim and strain the liquor, put it on the
fire again, and when it boils, put in the cut pieces. When they are cooked, take
them out, put them into the soup tureen with a little chopped parsley ( blanched ) ;
then strain the soup into the tureen, and serve at once.
824 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Eel Soup. — This may be made of two pounds of eels, one pound of other hard-
fleshed fish, a bunch of celery, one onion, six cloves, a bunch of parsley and sweet
herbs. Season with a blade of mace, and pepper and salt to the taste. The fish must
be skinned as well as the eels, and well cleaned. Cover with a quart of water in the
stew-pan, add the pepper and salt, the onion with the cloves stuck in it, the bunch of
herbs, the celery cut up and the parsley minced. Let it simmer for an hour and a
half, covered close. Then strain. This is stock, and may be thinned as desired. If
brown soup is wanted, fry the fish in butter before boiling.
Rich Oyster Soup. — Take two quarts of the fish stock. Beat the yolks of two
hard-boiled eggs, and the hard parts of two quarts of oysters in a mortar, and add
this to the stock. Let it simmer for thirty to thirty-five minutes, add the rest of the
oysters, and simmer five minutes. Then beat the yolks of six fresh eggs and add to
the soup, stirring all one way until it is thick and smooth, keeping it hot, but not
quite boiling, say at about 197 to 200 degrees. Then serve at once.
A Good Oyster Soup. — To every four dozen oysters, freshly opened, allow
one quarter of a pound of butter, six ounces of flour, two quarts of veal or chicken
soup, a quart of milk and seasoning, including a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce,
more or less, to suit the taste. Put the butter in a stew-pan, and, when fully melted,
add the flour and stir until smooth. Then add the liquor from the oysters that have
been just blanched in their liquor, but not boiled, and pour in the soup. Season with
a little cayenne and a blade of mace, with black pepper and salt. When all is well
mixed, strain and boil ten minutes. Put the oysters that have been blanched and a
gill of cream into a tureen, pour the boiling soup over them and serve immediately.
Clam Soup. — ^Wash four dozen clams, open them and let them lie on the half-
shell until the water has run out. Chop them fine with celery, mace and pepper, and
an onion if you like it. Put the liquor and all in a saucepan and thicken with two
tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in flour. Simmer twenty minutes a6d then stir in the
beaten yolks of five eggs. Serve in a tureen with slice of toasted bread
Plain Oyster Soup. — Take one quart of oysters to one quart of milk. Boil
the milk and liquor from the oysters together. "When it has fairly boiled, add a table-
spoonful of butter and let it boil up again, using powdered crackers or flour to thicken
while boiling. Put in the oysters and serve immediately. The butter is often, and,
we think, preferably, added with the seasoning of pepper and salt, for butter when
boiled loses its fresh and pleasant flavor.
Oyster Stew. — Oysters are stewed with milk, cream or water. "V^Tien the
liquor of the oysters is used, and this is stewed down considerably, it is called a dry
stew. The ordinary stew is made as follows : Pick the oysters out of the juice with
a fork, as dry as possible; stew the juice, thickening the milk or water of which the
soup is to be made, and let it stand until thoroughly cooled; then drop the oysters in,
and just as the cooled soup begins to show signs of simmering, empty out all together,
and you will have a rich soup and plump oysters.
SOME USEFUL RECIPES. 825
v. Boiled Dishes.
Pish Chowder. — The ingredients are : Cod, haddock, or any other firm-fleshed
fish, and salt p6rk. Fry three or four slices of salt pork in a deep kettle. When
crisp take it out and put into the kettle, first, a layer of sliced potatoes, then one of
fish, and then one of onions, alternating with a layer of fish until all is used. Peppei
it well, add boiling water enough to cover the whole, and boil half an hour. Put in
half a pint of milk, and cook it five minutes longer, gently, to prevent burning. A
brass kettle is often used when there is a large party.
Steamed Turkey. — Cleanse the fowl thoroughly ; then rub pepper and salt well
mixed into the inside of it. Fill up the body with oysters mixed with a small cupful
of bread-crumbs. Sew up all the apertures; lay the turkey into a large steamer and
place over a kettle of boiling water; cover closely, and steam thoroughly for two
hours and a half. Now take it up; set the platter in a warm place, and turn what-
ever gravy there is in the steamer, straining it first into the oyster sauce which you
have prepared, in the following manner: Take a pint of oysters, turn a pint of boil-
ing water over them in a' colander. Put the liquor on to boil, skim off whatever
rises on the top. Thicken it with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed into two table-
spoonfuls of butter; season well with pepper and salt. Add two or three table-
spoonfuls of cream or milk to whiten it ; and pour it over the turkey and platter ;
serve boiling hot. This sauce must be made while the turkey is still in the steamer,
so that it can be poured over the turkey as soon as it is taken up.
Boiled Turkey and Fowl. — Select a fat, young fowl ; prepare the dressing
of cracker or bread crumbs, made fine; chop bits of raw salt pork very fine; sift in
sage, savory, thyme, qr any other sweet herbs you prefer; add to this pepper, salt,
and considerable biitter ; mix with hot water. An egg is sometimes added. After
the turkey is stuffed, wrap closely in cloth. Put in cold water to boil, having all
parts covered. Boil slowly, removing the scum as it rises. A small turke}- will boil
in less than two hours. If you use oysters for the dressing, it is better to steam the
turkey instead of boiling. When tender, take it up, strain the gravy found in the
pan, thicken with flour; stew the oysters intended for the sauce, mix this liquor with
the gravy, add butter, salt and pepper to suit the taste; a trifle of cream improves
the color.
Boiled Corned Beef. — If the piece is very salt, let it soak over night. If young
beef and properly corned, this is unnecessary. For boiling, put it in the pot, pour
cold water. over it after rinsing, letting the meat be well covered. The rule is
twenty-five minutes to a pound for boiling meats, but corned beef should never be
boiled ; it should only simmer, by being placed where the simmering can be uninter-
rupted from four to six hours, according to the size of the piece. If it is to be
served cold, let the meat remain in the liquor until cold. Tough beef can be made
tender by letting it remain in the liquor until the next day, and then bringing it to
the boiling point just before serving. For rump pieces this is a superior method.
A brisket or plate piece may be simmered until the bones can be easily removed ;
826 THE HOME AND FARM MAXTJAL.
then fold over the brisket piece, forming a square or oblong piece ; tie over it a piece
of muslin, place sufficient weight on top to press the parts closely together, and set
it where it will become cold. This gives a firm, solid piece for cutting from when
cold.
A Boiled Dinner. — Select a good piece of fresh beef, not too fat, rub over it
sufficient salt to "corn" it, but not to make it very salt; let it stand two or three
days. Judging of the time by the size of the meat; then wash thoroughly in cold
water, put in the pot, cover with cold water and boil gently till quite tender. Add
such vegetables as are desired, judging the quantity by the strength of flavor desired
in the thick soup to be made from the water in which the whole is boiled ; when done
dish beef and vegetables, and serve hot.
Boiled Lamb, Mutton or Veal. — ^Wrap the joint, quarter or piece of meat
in a wet cloth. Dust it with flour and let it remain so half an hour. Have the pot
ready boiling; dip the joint in, first one end and then the other — ^then put it in the
pot and cover closely. Let it boil gently but steadily, an hour and a half for lamb,
and two hours for veal and mutton.
Sauce for Boiled Meats. — Drawn butter, with chopped parsley and sliced car-
rots, and pickled cucumbers. Boil carrots for a dish to eat with the lamb, etc. Slice
into it some potatoes, parsley and onions, and with a little thickening, you have a
good soup.
To Boil Rice. — Eice when done should have every grain perfect. It should
not be a gluey mass. The way to do it is to drop the rice into plenty of boiling
water, boil fast and with the lid off, and when just done drain into a colander before
serving. This is the way to boil rice for serving with gumbo.
To Wash and Boil Rice. — Wash in several waters, rubbing gently between
the fingers; drain, drop it into boiling water only sufficient to cook it by the time the
water is boiled ofE, and so when done each grain will preserve its shape. This is the
Chinese method.
VI. Stewing.
Stewing is the basis of all made dishes, and a most economical and savory man-
ner of cooking. Its perfection depends upon the slowness with which it is done. A
stew should never boil, nor 6ven simmer. Two hundred degrees is the greatest heat
admissible; 190 degrees is hot enough. Hence it is most safely performed by placing
the stew-pan in another vessel of water — a Bain-marie. Stews should never be greasy
nor very highly seasoned. The jiot lid should be kept close, and an occasional shak-
ing of the contents will save stirring.
Irish. Stew. — Take a neck of mutton, trim off some of the fat, and cut into as
many cutlets as you have bones; shape them, and sprinkle them with pepper. Peel
six moderate-sized onions, and for every pound of meat take one pound of potatoes.
Blanch the vegetables separately. Take a clean three-quart stew-pan, and add half a
pint of water or stock. Arrange a layer of potatoes at the bottom of the stew-pan.
SOME USEFUL RECIPES.
827
then cutlets, then onions; then potatoes, then cutlets, then onions, and so proceed
until you have the whole in. Stew at least two hours if you want it rich ; or one
hour if the meat is to be more solid.
Beef Stew. — Cut cold beef into small pieces, and put into cold water ; add one
tomato, a little onion chopped fine, pepper and salt, and cook slowly; thicken with
butter and flour, and pour over toast. Or chop fine, cold steak or roast beef, and
cook in a little water; add cream or milk, and thicken with flour; season to taste,
and pour over thin slices of toast.
Onion and Meat Stew. — Slice some pnions and fry brown. Pound the meat,
fry it over a hot fire until it browns a little, turning each piece as soon as it has been
a few seconds in the pan, to keep
in the juice. Put it into a sauce-
pan, pour water into the frying-
pan, and put this brown liquor,
with the fried onions, to the beef.
Let it simmer slowly for an houif.
Other seasoning may be added,
according to taste, or to vary the
dish, such as tomatoes, fresh or in
catsup, sage and summer savory,
or a grated carrot. Young green
onions, such as must be thinned
out, are good cut up in it; pepper
and salt, and a teaspooaful of
curry powder are a great improve-
ment. If onions are not liked they may be left out, and the stew mjide brown with
other fried vegetables, or the meat itself may be first fried.
Beef Steak Stew with Jelly. — Take rump or round steak and pound it well,
to make it soft, and lard it thoroughly. Put it in a stew-pan, in equal parts of white-
wine and water, and add some slices from a leg of veal. Season it with spice, salt,
garlic, thyme and parsley. Simmer all over a steady fire four or five hours. When
sufficiently done, remove the meat, and strain the broth through a sieve; then pour it
into another pan, and boil it down until it becomes a jelly. If it is wished that the
jelly should be clear, the whites of two eggs may be beaten up in a tablespoonful of
stock broth and added to it, and well mixed. It must then be boiled for seven or
■ eight minutes. Some lemon is then to be added, and the contents of the stew-pan
strained through a fine cotton strainer, taking care not to squeeze the cloth, or the
dregs may be forced through the pores of the material. The filtered jelly is then put
in a cold place to set. When it has become perfectly solid it is to be cut into nice
pieces, which should be tastefully arranged on the dish, around the piece of meat.
Sometimes the jelly is colored befoi"e being strained by the addition of a little
cochineal powder.
CONVEX STEW-PAN.
828 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Hotcll-Potcll. — The ingredients are : Neck or scrag of mutton, made into cut-
lets, cauliflower, carrots, green peas, onions, stock and turnips. This is something
like the New England boiled dinner already described.
VII. How to Make Stock.
Stocic is the foundation of all meat-soups, sauces and purees. It is prepared as
follows: To make three quarts of good beef stock, put into a saucepan or stock-pot
one and a half pounds fresh shin of beef, haljF-pound of bones broken into pieces,
with seven pints of clean, soft water. Let the contents come slowly to the boil, then
remove all the scum by skimming. The addition of a little cold water at intervals
will facilitate the rising of the scum by altering the specific gravity of the water ; if
the scum be not removed it will partially redissolve and spoil the clearness and flavor
of the stock, and you will have the trouble of clarifying. After skimming well, add
the following: one ounce of salt; one onion, with two or, at most, three cloves stuck
in it; two leeks, say five ounces ; half head of celery weighing half -ounce ; turnip cut
into quarters, weighing five ounces; carrot sliced, weighing five ounces; parsnip
sliced, weighing one ounce ; one teaspoonful of white pepper. The contents must
now simmer at 180 to 200 degrees for four or five hours ; then remove the fat by
skimming, it can be used when cold for frying and other purposes.
Take out the meat, vegetables and bones, and strain the stock into a glazed
earthenware vessel and keep it in a cool place free from dust ; a piece of muslin
gauze may be placed over it. Any remaining fat can be removed in a solid state
when the liquor is cold. Stock, soup, broth, or stew should always be kept in earth-
enware vessels. The vegetables should not remain longer in the stock than is neces-
sary to properly cook them, as they afterwards absorb the flavor. In spring and
summer, when, vegetables are young, they cook in less time, but a stock may be and
often is prepared without vegetables.
A stock may also be prepared from previously cooked meat and bones, but the
stock will not be so good or rich in flavor as when prepared from fresh meat and
bones. The idea which must be ever present in preparing a stock or soup is absolute
freedom from fat. Spare no pains in skimming, and a httle kitchen-paper or blot-
ting-paper laid on the surface will remove specks of fat which evade the spoon.
VIII. To Clarify Stock or Soup.
Sometimes stock will not clarify itself. To clarify stock or a soup, take the
white and clean shell of an egg for every quart of soup ; crush the shell in a
mortar, and mix the shell and white of egg with a gill of cold water. Whisk the
mixture well, and then add about as much of the boiling soup, still beating [up all
to£i'ether. Pour the mixture to the remainder of the stock in the saucepan, still stir-
rino- briskly till the whole comes to the boiling point. Remove from the fii-e, and let
the stock remain ten minutes, or until the white of the egg or albumen separates ; then
strain carefully, and the broth is clarified. The albumen and egg-shells entangle the
SOME USEFUL RECIPES. 829
small solid particles floating in the soup. If care be taken in the preparation of a
stock or soup it will not often require clarifying.
IX. To Color Soups.
It is sometimes desirable that stock should be of a bright golden. color, although
it is no better on that account. The point to remember in coloring, is not to alter the
flavor of the stock or soup ; bui^nt onions or carrots should never be used ; they
impart a disagreeable taste. The only proper coloring substance is caramel or burnt
sugar, which may be prepared as follows :
Take a clean stew-pan or saucepan and put in half pound of pounded loaf sugar,
and constantly stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon. When the sugar is thoroughly
melted, let it come to the boiling point, and then boil slowly for fifteen minutes, with
occasional stirring. When the sugar is of a dark-brown color add one quart of cold
water, then boil for twenty minutes on the side of the fire. Let it cool; then strain
it, and keep it in clean well-stoppered bottles, and it is ready for use. Caramel
should be of a dark-brown color; if it boil too quickly it will become black, and will
spoil the color and flavor of the broth. When you use caramel, put it into the soup
tureen just before serving.
X. Boasted and Baked Meats.
In the United States, very little meat is roasted before the fire. This method is
undoubtedly better than baking, but few famihes have facilities for roasting. The
cook stove is now supreme, and no person will object either to a joint or a bird nicely
roasted in an oven. But roasting before the open fire undoubtedly exalts the flavor
of meat more than any other way of cooking. Only the best pieces can be used for
roasting. The neck, tops of the ribs, shanks and tail make soup, all the odds and
ends come in well for stewing, while the best roasting pieces are the ribs, the fillet,
the sirloin and rump.
How to Roast. — To roast meat properly, the fire must be hot and steady.
About two hours will be required for a roast of seven pounds of beef, and somewhat
less for a leg of mutton. No time^ however, can be given exactly, though fifteen
minutes for each pound will be near the mark. Beef is usually liked rare, mutton
often somewhat so, but pork and fowls should be thoroughly cooked.
Basting.— The meat should be basted from time to time, and if you wish the
meat frothed, just after the last basting, dredge it very lightly with well-dried flour
and give it time to crisp. The imperative rule for baking meats is to have a^ quick
fire and baste frequently. Never parboil meat that is to be roasted. If it is frozen
thaw it out in cold water before putting it in the oven, always wiping it dry after tak-
ing it from the water.
There is another thing that should be observed with all meats that are to be
roasted, broiled or fried. They should be kept in a cool place after being killed,
until ready for cooking. This breaks down the fiber and renders the flesh tender.
830 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL .
XI. Beef a la Mode.
This is a fillet or round of beef with rich stuffing, whether stewed or baked.
A round of beef is prepared as follows : Cut out the bone and fill with rich stuffing
of bread-crumbs seasoned with pepper, salt and onions ; mix together a teaspoonful
each of pepper, salt, cloves, mace and nutmeg. Make incisions in the beef and place
thereon strips of salt fat pork rolled in the spices. Sprinkle the remainder over the
beef, and cover the whole with strips of fat pork. Tie it all round with tape, and
skewer it well, put in the oven in
a dripping-pan containing plenty
of water, say three quarts, and
FUESH-FOEK. ^akc from' four to six hours,
according to the size of the piece,
basting it well with butter or nice beef drippings mixed with a little flour. When
nearly done skim the fat from the gravy and thicken to serve with the meat. The
gravy may be seasoned with Worcester sauce, catsup or wine.
XII. Preparing the Boast.
Ribs of beef may have the bones cut out, the meat rolled compactly together
and properly skewered. A loin should have the spine properly cut for convenience
in carving. Fowls should be properly skewered, and the roasting should be done
with only water enough to properly baste. The roast should be covered with a but-
tered paper to prevent burning until such a time as it may be ready to finish by
browning. With these directions any cook should be able to do a plain roast.
XIII. Roast Saddle of Venison,
The side which is to come uppermost at table should be placed next the pan in
baking. When half done, turn it over in the pan, and cut into it in several places on
each side of the bone, nearly three inches deep, and fill with a stuffing of bread
crumbs highly seasoned with pepper and salt. Pour over the meat half a teacupful
of catsup, covering equally. Stir into half a teacupful of black molasses a table-
spoonful of whole allspice, and a teaspoonful of brown sugar. Spread this equally
over the meat. Then crumble stale bread over all, keeping the meat well basted all
the while. Bake slowly until finished, for it burns easily. When taken from the
oven, garnish with bits of jelly, and serve.
XIV. Fowl and Turkey.
Boast Fowl, — The dressing for roasted fowl should be of bread toasted crisp,
spread with butter, and moistened with water; or if plain dressing, pound in a
mortar. It should be rather highly seasoned. Add if you like, sage, thyme and
parsley, and have the whole soft enough so it will fill the cavity compactly. The
giblets, chopped fine, should always be served with the gravy.
SOME USEFUL RECIPES. 831
Roast Turkey.— Turkey or other fowl having been well drawn, washed and
dried with a towel, rubbed with salt and pepper, stuffed and sewn up, the legs and
wings carefully skewered in place, put it in the oven, with the giblets, and about a
quart of water in the pan. Bake until done, basting often, being careful not to burn
it. The browning is done at the last. It will require three hours to roast a large
turkey or a goose, and not much less for a brace of large ducks.
XV. Baked Ham.
The ham is first boiled. Very few persons know how to boil a ham. Wrap the
ham in clean straw, or fill in around it in the pot with clean oat-straw. Add a clove
or two of garlic (not a whole garlic), cloves, mace, allspice, thyme and pepper to the
water in the pot. Add also a quart of cider and boil until done. If the water in
which the ham is boiled is one-half old sound cider so much the better. Let it stand
in the liquor until cool. If it is to be served without baking, skin and garnish with
whole cloves stuck in the fat, and such other garnishing as may suit the taste. But a
ham is better if baked after boiling.
How to Bake a Ham. — Skin the ham after boiling. Lay two flat pieces of
wood in the bottom of the bake pan; lay the ham on them, and cover with a batter
of flour and water spread equally. Bake two or three hours slowly, according to the
size' of the ham, remove the crust of batter, garnish and serve. It is excellent hot
or cold, and all the better for having a half-pint of claret poured over it; or it may
be eaten with a sauce of which wine is the basis.
XVI. Baked Beans.
The marrow beans are really best, but the small navy beans are generally used.
Put them to soak early in the evening, change the water before going to bed, and
again in the morning. Parboil for two hours, or until they are tender, but will not
break up. Pour off nearly all the water. Place the beans in a bean-pot — a deep pan
will do if unsoldered. Score a piece of salt pork. Sink it into the middle of the
beans, so it is just level with the surface, and add a very little molasses. Bake six
hours, raising the pork toward the last so it may be well browned.
To cook beans in the camiD, after boiling, a hole is dug at the foot of the fire,
filled with hot coals, the bean-pot is filled around with coals and covered with hot
ashes, where it remains from supper-time in the evening until breakfast the following
morning — about fourteen or fifteen hours. This, in fact, is the perfection of art in
cooking beans for imparting a fine flavor.
XVII. Broiling and Prying.
In broiling and frying the same principle is carried out as in roasting, but it is
somewhat different from that of baking. In baking, heat is applied to all sides of the
meat during the whole operation. In roasting before the fire, heat is applied alter-
nately to every side of the meat; the same thing is done in broiling and frying.
832
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
Frying comes nearer to baking tiian broiling does, when the frying is done in a skillet
with little fat. In broiling the meat comes into direct contact with the heat of the
fire and is altogether preferable, except for ham, pork, bacon and fish, which are
generally fried. The thing to do, in both broiling and frying, is to have a strong,
clear fire, without smoke — hard coal, charcoal, or the coals of hard wood, "are indis-
pensable for broiling.
Now that so many excellent and cheap implements for broiling are manufactured,
so that the steak, cutlets, fish, etc., may be clasped between the leaves, thus saving
the handling, frying is pretty much discontinued. In fact, in frying now, the articles
BEOIUEK AND COVER.
are generally seethed in very hot fat, a preferable plan to frying, unless it be dry
frying. If the fat is hot enough the meat will not absorb the fat, but come out
exceedingly savory.
In broihng or frying, a fork should never be used. It pierces the meat and
allows the juices to escape. With the modern broiler, turning with a fork is unneces-
sary; but every cook should have a pair of meat-tongs for turning and handling
steaks, cutlets, etc., when necessary.
The Thickness for Broiling. — Beefsteaks should never be less than half an
inch thick, and if a rich, juicy broil is desired the steak should be three-quarters of
an inch thick. Pork and mutton chops, veal cutlets, and lamb chops ishould never be
more than half an inch thick, and less is better. Salt pork, ham and bacon should
be cut thin. Young chickens and other birds for broiling, should be cut down the
back, "pressed out, and pounded or broken down perfectly flat. Flat fish and all
small fish are fried whole ; round fish are slit down the back. No broiled or fried
meat, except beef, must be rare enough to show the blood. Mutton is often liked
SOME USEFUL RECIPES.
833
slightly rare. AH other meats must be thoroughly cooked through, especially fowl,
pork and fish. All these meats are apt to contain germs, that unless destroyed by a
seething heat, may be dangerous, as for instance, trichinae in pork, fowls and fish.
Prying in Boiling Pat. — What we have said will fully cover the ground of
boiling arid dry frying. Frying, however, is nicely done in boiling fat, using enough
to completely -cover the article cooked. It
must be very hot, so as to brown the sub-
stance properly. Meat or fish need not be
entirely covered up if it be turned, but it is
better to fry without turning. The fat —
sweet drippings — may be used over and over
again, but that used for fish should never
again be used for other dishes, but the oil that
meat has been fried in may be used for fish.
Pried. Oysters. — Select large, freshly shelled oysters, dry them in a towel,
dip into egg that has been slightly whisked, and then roll in bread-crumbs or pow-
dered cracker. Let them dry, and cook in boiling lard until a light brown ; or they
may be fried in a little butter by turning.
Oyster Pritters. — Make a stiff batter of eggs beaten, bread-crumbs, flour and
milk, or cream ; season with pepper and salt. Fry in a pan with butter or lard by
dropping in a spoonful of batter, then an oyster or two according to size, and cover
with more batter. Cook both sides brown by turning.
OYSTER BROILEE.
mPROVED FRTESTG-PAN— HANDLE ALWAYS OVAL.
XVIII. Prepared Dishes Baked.
Oysters. — This is a nice breakfast dish. Separate the oysters from the liquor,
and put some of .them in a baking platter, or pan. Make a seasoning of grated
bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, celery-seed and small bits of butter. Put this over the
oysters, add some seasoning and again oysters until you have enough. Pour a glass
of wine or sound cider over all, and add the liquor of the oysters, as much as may
be necessary. Bake Until hot throughout and serve immediately.
33
834 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Meat Pot-Pie. — The old-fashioned way of making a pot-pie, and the only way
in which the lower crust can be properly browned, is to use a thick round-bottomed
pot over an open fire. The bottom and sides of the pot are lined with thick crust,
and just before the pie is done the fire is increased until the crust is well browned. It
cannot be made in a flat-bottomed or thin kettle. The modern way of making a pot-
pie in the oven is to brown the top crust. It is the next best thing to a browned
bottom crust. Chicken, game, beef and veal are the meats used.
XIX. Pastry for Meat Pies.
Many prefer a crust that is firm enough to be raised around the meat. Care
must be taken that the flour is dry, and it must be sifted. Boil water with a very
little lard and an equal quantity of sweet drippings or butter. While hot, mix this
with as much flour as you want, making the paste very smooth and stiff, by beating
and kneading. When ready, place it in a cloth or under a pan until cold. To make
the form, place the left hand on the lump of crust, and with the right keep working
it up the back of the hand until the proper shape is obtained. It must be thick
enough to support itself.
When worked into the desired form, the meat is put in with the necessary dress-
ing, and the cover cemented on with the white of an egg, leaving vent holes for the
escape of steam. You will have difficulty in forming the paste without practice, and
in reality these raised pies are more fanciful than practical. Before putting into the
oven the whole- must be glazed with white of eggs.
Another Way. — Take a tin, half the height of the required pie, roll the paste
of a proper thickness, cut out the top and bottom, and a long piece for the outside.
Butter the dish, mould the side, lay on the white of an egg where the bottom is to join
the sides, drawing it down over the bottom of the dish. Lay on the bottom, pressing
all firm so it may not leak. Fill the pie, put on the cover, and pinch well together.
The usual way is to press the paste into a buttered tin form, take the pie carefully out
when firm enough, and again put it into the oven to brown.
Brioche Paste. — Seven fresh eggs are required for ten pounds of dried and
warmed flour and one pound of sweet butter; also a little compressed yeast. Put
the yeast into a portion of the flour, add warm water and mix to form the leaven.
Set it to rise after making a slit in the top. The leaven being ready, take the remain-
ing flour, make a hole in the middle, put in a saltspoonful of salt and the same
quantity of powdered sugar, with a little water to melt it. Slightly whisk the eggs,
break the butter small, and work the whole well together by kneading and spreading
alternately. Spread again, lay the leaven evenly over all, and knead and work until
the whole js evenly and thoroughly mixed. When finished, flour a towel, wrap the
paste in it, apd put in a cold place in hot weather, or a warm place in cold weather,
to have it ready for the next day.
This makes the most delicate dumplings for soups or stews, cut in shapes and
fried ; it is nice with braised dishes. It makes the best casfe for lobster or other
SOME USEFUL RECIPES. 835
patties, and is an excellent side-dish, cut and fried in shapes. It may be boiled in cup
shapes and served with asparagus, cut small and heaped on top with white sauce
around it. In fact, there is an endless variety of uses to which the cook may put this
paste; the only drawback is, it is troublesome to make.
Light Plain Paste. — Take one pound of flour, six ounces of lard and ten ounces
of butter. Rub the lard into the flour, whii3h must be thoroughly dry, work into a
smooth paste with only a little water. Eoll out thin, press the butter in a cloth to
absorb the moisture, put the butter in the center of the paste, fold and press lightly
down and roll very thin, dredging the board with a little flour. Fold in three laps
and roll and set it in a cool place for a short time. Give it two more workings at
intervals; fold again and it should be ready for use. This will make a good light
paste for almost any purpose.
Crusts with Melted Pat. — These are made by pouring the melted fat into the
flour and mixing until all is fine, using one egg to each pound of flour. The propor-
tions are: Flour one pound, drippings of lard or butter, six to twelve ounces — accord-
ing to how short it is wanted — and one egg.
Potato Crust. — An excellent crust is made with potatoes. Peel, boil and pass
through a sieve, twelve potatoes. The other ingredients are : A gill of cream, two
heaping tablespoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and enough flour to form the
paste.
XX. Ingredients for Meat Pies.
For meat pies take a dozen slices of fried pork cut in pieces, together with the
beef, veal or chicken, and stew all together in only water enough to form the gravy.
Peel and slice potatoes and add them to the stew. Let the crust form the bottom,
top and sides of the dish. Then form alternate layers of meat and crust, until the
whole is finished, seasoning each layer of meat properly. Then pour on the liquor
the meat was cooked in, until it Just covers all; put on the top crust, and bake until
the bottom crust is done and the top brown. If the liquor dries down, more must be
added, or else water, in either case, boiling hot.
Pot-Pie of Fowl. — A pie may be made of chicken or wild fowl. The yolks of
six hard-boiled eggs to each fowl may be stirred in.
Chicken Pie with Rice. — This may be made with or without crust. If with-
out crust, line the dish with slices of boiled ham; cut up the boiled chicken, pom-
over it the gravy or melted butter, and fill in the interstices with boiled rice. Cover
the top thickly with the same. Bake about three-quarters of an hour.
Giblet Pie with Oysters. — Take the giblets of two chickens or of a turkey ;
stew until nearly done, and cut into inch pieces. Line the pan with a rich paste, mix
the giblets with a quart of oysters, adding liquor enough to make the pie juicy. Add
flour or rolled cracker enough to thicken it somewhat; also butter, pepper and salt;
cover with crust, and bake until the top is brown.
Pish and Oyster Pies. — Fish, eels and oysters are made into pies. The
836
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
seasoning for these is generally high, and includes various spices, parsley, thyme,
basil and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs. A modification by which these are baked in
rich gravy or stock, is generally preferred by American palates. Any fish may be
used, but the hard-fleshed fish are preferred.
XXI. Dishes of Eggs.
Many dishes are made of eggs. Broken in water just simmering, they are called
poached eggs.
Pried Eggs. — They are fried in hot lard or oil, first being broken into a dish
and carefully turned into the frying-pan. While cooking, turn the hot fat over the
tops of the eggs with an iron spoon to cook the tops, or turn them and fry both sides
if this way is liked. They are nice boiled in the shell, three minutes by the watch,
or somewhat less if wished verv soft.
vegetable or egg boilees.
steamer
OMELET-PAN.
Scrambled Eggs. — They are scrambled by breaking them into a hot frying-pan,
containing only enough butter to thoroughly grease it, and constantly stirring the
eggs until done. Of course, whatever the way of cooking, they must be properly
seasoned with pepper and salt.
Baked Eggs. — Break the eggs carefully into a dish, so the yelks will not be
broken. Turn them into a granite- ware pan well buttered, season with pepper and salt,
and drop a small piece of butter on each egg. Set in a hot oven and bake untif the
whites are set.
Omelettes. — Eggs are not to be beaten for an omelette. If a souffle is desired,
they are beaten. For an omelette, they are stirred until the yolks and whites are
propprly mixed, one teaspoonful of cold water being used to each egg. The omelette
takes its name from the flavoring used, parsley, ham, cheese, etc., either of which
must be chopped fine ; the material in which they are fried must be the sweetest
butter. The butter being hot, pour the stirred eggs, and' other material if used,
into the omelette-pan, shaking the pan occasionally, as the mass sets, so it will not
SOME USEFUL RECIPES. 837
burn. If desired browned on both sides, turn; or when done, if fried only on one
side, fold or roll together lightly, and garnish the top with bits of parsley.
XXII. Steamed Dishes.
Oysters, many vegetables, especially potatoes, puddings and various prepared
dishes are steamed. This is simply utilizing the action of steam instead of hot water
to break down the tissue and render the substance palatable. The articles are placed
in a vessel with a perforated bottom, and fitting tight upon a pot. The lid must also
be tight so as to allow some pressure of steam. An excellent form of steamer
wherein the cover fits down upon a projection instead of over the side is shown in
the illustration.
CHAPTEE m.
SAUCES, SALADS, PICKLES AND CONDIMENTS.
I. SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 11. SALADS AND THEIR DRESSING. in. VARIOUS MADE DISHES. IV.
PICKLES, CATSUPS AND CONDIMENTS. ^V. LEAVES FOR FLAVORING. VI. SOUR PICKLES— CUCUM-
BERS VII. CHOW-CHOW. Vin. PICCALILLI. IX. SWEET PICKLES. X. CATSUPS. XI.
C&XDIMENTS. Xn. FLAVORED VINEGAR. XHI. STRAWBERRY ACID.
I. Sauces and Gravies.
ICiliHE French have a sayina; that the English have but one sauce — melted butter.
^*^ This may have been measurably true once, but now the English and the Americans
feg^ draw upon the products of every chmate to please their palates. Our sauces
are numerous, and it must be confessed, many of them are of little account;
others are expensive and troublesome to prepare. The most costly and elaborate are
now sold by grocers and purveyors, and are bought ready-made in sealed cans. How-
ever the sauce is prepared, the utensils must be clean, and a wooden spoon should be
used for stirring. Melted butter, stock, bread sauce, white sauce and brown sauce
are the bases of the principal sauces.
SOUP OE SAUCE STRAINER. GRAVY STRAINER.
Melted Butter. — It is made in the relative proportions of two ounces of but-
ter, two tablespoonfuls of water, and a little flour dredged in, prepared over a hot
fire, and shaken back and forth. Another good way of making is to rub two table-
spoonfuls of flour into a quarter of a pound of butter, adding five teaspdonfuls
of water ; set the sauce-pan containing it in a vessel of water kept boiling until it
simmers.
Sauce for Pish and Fowl. — The melted butter sauce makes a good condiment
for fish by adding hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, and for boiled fowl, by adding
chopped oysters when it is simmering.
Egg Sauce. — This may be made either with melted butter or with white sauce.
Five or six hard-boiled eggs, cut into small slices, using only half the whites, are put
into a sauce-pan, to half a pint of melted butter or white sauce, with a little cream,
all poured onto the eggs hot.
[838]
SAUCES, SALADS, PICKLES AND CONDIMENTS. 839
Good White Sauce.^This is made by taking stock or the liquor in whicli the
fish, flesh or fowl has been cooked, a little flour, pepper and salt. Turn in two
beaten eggs, and let the whole come to a boil, stirring constantly. Or it may be
made with one pint of milk, a small onion, a small head of celery and a little parsley,
white pepper and salt, and two ounces of butter. The butter is melted in a sauce-
pan; dredge the flour slowly in until mixed. Previously, the milk, herbs, pepper
and salt, must have been cooked together in a "'bain marie," or some vessel placed in
another of boiling water. Stir the milk slowly in, then the well-whisked egg, stirring
all the while. When it simmers it is done.
Another Good White Sauce.^Boil in a sauce-pan, half-pint of water, two
cloves, fifteen pepper-corns and a blade of mace. Add two anchovies chopped fine,
a quarter of a pound of butter, a little flour and a pint of cream. Let it boil three
minutes, stirring it constantly.
Brown Sauce. — -Put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, with a quarter of a
pound of lean bacon or ham cut fine, and two pounds of lean beef cut into strips.
Add a little water, two cloves, pepper, salt and one bay-leaf. Set it over the fire,
stirring constantly, until it is brown and rich. Then add two quarts of water, and
when it boils, let it simmer slowly for an hour and a half. Strain through a sie-ve,
and it is ready for use.
Sauce for Roast Meat. — A good sauce for roast meat may be made in ten
minutes, with a quarter of a pint of water, the juice of a lemon strained, a sprig of
parsley chopped fine, an ounce and a half of butter, all seasoned with white pep23er
and salt. ' Set the whole over the fire in a glazed sauce-pan and keep it there until it
is just ready to boil ; then serve. This may be varied by adding two tablespoonfuls
of nasturtiums or capers. It may also be made with white vinegar, in place of the
lemon ; or the flavoring may be used with the gravy sauce usually served with the meat.
Wine Sauce, for Boast Game. — Take a pint and a half of jelly, three-quar-
ters of a pound of butter, three tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and half as much
ground allspice, and a quart of port wine. Stew together until thick. This may be
used for any roasted meats.
Onion Sauce. — Many people are fond of a sauce of onions, which are healthy,
and to most palates agreeable. If it were not for the unpleasant odor they give the
breath, onions would be uiniversally used both as food and flavoring. A sauce is
made by boiling the onions, until tender, in milk and water. Drain and chop the
onions fine, adding pepper and salt. Pour drawn butter over them, and add milk or
cream. When the whole comes to a boil, the sauce is ready.
Cold Meat Sauce. — ^A good sauce for cold meat is made by beating the yolks
of three eggs, and adding a wineglassful of jelly cut up. The seasoning is made
with a tablespoonful each of flour and mustard, softened with vinegar. Put the
whole in a sauce-pan with a tablespoonful of butter and half a teaciipful of vinegar.
Boil, stirring constantly until thick. Any solid pickle, like cucumber, may be
chopped fine, and stirred thoroughly in when the sauce is cold.
840 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL. ^
■Another Sauce for Cold Meat. — Take equal quantities of ripe tomatoes and
young okras; chop ttie okras fine, skin the tomatoes, and slice one onion. Stew all
together very slowly until tender, and season with half a tablespoonful of butter and
a little cayenne pepper and salt.
Sauce of Many Names. — A sauce that goes by the name of the flavoring
added, as caper, mushroom, chopped cucumber, hard-boiled ,eggs, and various herbs,
is made by mixing together two large tablespoonfuls of butter and a tablespoonful of
flour; put into a sauce-pan, and add two cups of broth or water; set on the fire, and
when thick add of the articles mentioned to suit the taste; salt; take from the
fire, add the yolk of an egg, beaten, and serve. Thus you have cucumber, egg, herb,
or mushroom sauce.
Sauce for Fowl. — Put half a pint of veal or chicken broth into a stew-pan,
with a wineglassful of port wine, the juice of a lemon and the juice of an orange.
Season with pepper and salt, boil for five minutes, pour over the fowls and serve.
II. Salads and their Dressing.
. The value of a salad is said to be in the dressing. However this may be, most
people like salads; and yet very few know how to prepare them. Salads may be
called purely luxuries. They certainly are elegant additions to any table, and most
appetizing.
Proverbial Salad. — The Spanish have a proverb that four persons are necessary
to make a good salad : A spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a barristef for salt,
and a madman to stir it up. Vegetables for a salad must be fresh
and crisp. Those kept fresh by soaking in water are always ruined.
If they must be kept, lay them between folds of damp cloth.
They should be young and well blanched. After washing, dry in
a cloth before putting them in the salad bowl. They should be
eatfen soon after being prepared. Lettuce, cabbage, endive, celery,
water-cress and cucumber are the principal vegetable ingredients
for salads; beet-root, hard-boiled eggs, and tomatoes are used for
the garnishing. Mayonnaise sauce is necessary for all elaborate
salads of meat or cooked vegetables. It is also a good foundation
SALAD WASHER. j. n , i
for all cold sauces.
Mayonnaise Sauce. — For half a pint of sauce, put the yolk of an egg in a
basin, with half a tablespoonful of tarragon or other flavored vinegar, and a table-
spoonful of pure vinegar, with a little salt and pepper. Mix these thoroughly with a
wooden spoon. Then add oil, drop by drop, mixing thoroughly. Never add more
until the first is well mixed. When about forty drops are mixed, the quantity added
may be a teaspoonful at a time, until four ounces are added. Then taste, and add
more vinegar, pepper and salt, if necessary. If you like it, a little eschalot, or onion
and parsley, thoroughly mixed, may be added.
SAUCES, SALADS, PICKLES AND CONDIMENTS. 841
French Vegetable Salad. — Boil equal weights, separately, of the tender tips
of asparagus, string beans, green peas, carrots and turnips. Dry them in a clean
cloth, and when cold cut into small squares. These should be arranged on a dish, the
beans in the bottom and center. Then, around them, in equal rows, the carrots,
peas, turnips and, last, the asparagus. If there are vegetables enough, proceed as
before, and over all sprinlde finely minced chervil, tarragon, burnet, chives and gar-
den cress, all having been first blanched, strained, cooled and dried in a cloth. If
you have not these, substitute others of a similar character. Serve with Mayonnaise
sauce. If the vegetables are fresh, young and, of course, tender, it makes a delicious
dish.
Salad of Meat, Fowl or Fish. — The cooked cold meat, chicken, game, fish
or lobster, is to be cut into small scallops or pulled to pieces, and dipped into Mayon-
naise, sauce, and the lettuce well blanched as well as the endive. Prepare these and
water-cress by washing and drying in a cloth. Break into pieces of an inch in length.
Mince a sprig of chervil, two leaves of tarragon and a little sorrel. Peel and slice a
fresh cucumber and a boiled red beet. Mix all these together thoroughly, make a
foundation of the vegetables, then a layer of the fish, flesh or fowl, etc. So continue
until you have the whole complete, saving some cucumber and beet-root for the out-
side of the dish. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs, properly cut; also, with jelly or
olives. Serve with Mayonnaise sauce, from a boat or other suitable vessel.
Lettuce Salad. — Every vegetable salad should have a good paste. To make
this requires care. Put the yolks of two boiled eggs into a dish with a teaspoonful
of dry mustard and a tablespoonful of perfectly sweet olive oil, with enough pepper
and salt to season. With a wooden spoon work this to a perfectly smooth paste.
Then gradually add three tablespoonfuls more of oil, two of vinegar, and mix to the
consistency of cream. Add two or three leaves of tarragon and a small eschalot, or
one small white onion finely minced ; also the whites of the two eggs cut in very
small slices. Then add the lettuce and some water-cress, broken into inch pieces.
When all is thoroughly mixed with the sauce, serve. We have given all the ingre-
dients of
OBLONG PIE-PLATE saviug the whites of three of them.
Make two pies, baking without top
crust. While these are baking, beat the whites of the three eggs saved for that pur-
pose to a stiff froth, and stir in the white sugar. When the pies are done spread this
frosting evenly over them and set again in the oven and brown slightly.
Lemon Pie. without Lemon. — Take one-half a teaspoonful of tartaric acid
dissolved in half a cupful of cold water, half a teaspoonful of extract of lemon, one
of sugar, yolk of egg, one soda cracker. After dissolving the acid stir the yolk and
sugar together, and mix with the acid and water, then the extract, then cracker
crumbled in. Bake in crust as for custard pie, and cover with the white of an egg
and brown. Many prefer this to pie made with the lemon.
Raisin Pie. — Take one pound of raisins, turn over them one quart of boiling
water and boil one hour. Keep adding water, so there will be a quart when done.
Grate the rind of one lemon into one cup of sugar, three spoonfuls of flour and one
egg. Mix well together. Turn the raisins over the mixture, stirring the while. This
makes three pies.
Peacll Pie. — Line a dish with a good crust. Then place in it a single layer of
peaches, cut in halves; sprinkle sugar over them, and pour on enough sweet cream to
fill the dish, and bake. Use no upper crust.
"Homely" Pie, — Take one cup of molasses, one cup of good vinegar, one cup
of water, one small spoonful of extract of lemon and a piece of butter the size of a.
.hen's egg. Let it all come to a boil and thicken it with corn starch. This makes two
pies. Don't put on a top crust, but lay strips of the paste on, as there is danger of
its foaming over.
Cream Pie. — Beat two eggs well, in a coffee-cup of sugar and one of thick sour
cream. Stir until thoroughly mixed. Add a teaspoonful of extract of lemon or
vanilla. Bake with two crusts. This quantity will make two pies.
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 865
Apple Custard Pie. — Peel sour apples and stew until soft, and there is not
much water left in them. Then rub through a colander. Beat three eggs for each
pie to be baked; and put in at the rate of one cup. of butter and one of sugar for
three pies. Season with nutmeg.
Plain Pumpkin Pie. — Cut the pumpkin in pieces ol convenient size to handle.
Grate with a common grater, and add milk enough to make it a little thinner than
common stewed pumpkin. To enough pumpkin for three pies, add one egg. Season
with cinnamon. Bake a little longer than if the pumpkin was stewed.
Potato Pie. — Take one cupful of mashed potatoes, one cupful sugar, half a cup-
ful of butter, half a cupful of sweet cream, two eggs, flavor to the taste with nutmeg.
Bake in an under crust.
VI. Tarts and Tart-Crusts.
The Crust. — Tarts may have a rather firm crust if they are to be filled with
watery or semi-liqujd material. For tarts of this kind a crust may be made of one
cup of lard, one tablespoonful of white sugar, white of an
egg, three tablespoonfuls of cold water, and flour added to
knead stiff.
For jellies, etc., only the finest puff paste should be
used, as directed for pies. In fact, however, no tart-form
can be really good unless it is made of the best puff paste.
•; ° „ , ^ , , SCALLOPED PATTY-PAN.
strawberry Tarts. — For strawberry tarts the crust
should be made into a puff paste. Then make a syrup of one pound of sugar and one
teacupful of water; add a little white of an egg, put it into a kettle, let it boil, and
skim it until only a foam arises; then put in a quart of berries, free from hulls and
stems; let them boil until they look clear, and the syrup is quite thick. This, put into
the puff paste, when warm, makes a most delicious tart for tea. This recipe is also
good for tarts of other acid fruits.
VII. Fruit Short-Cake.
Strawberry Short-Cake. — Make a nice paste for the crust ; roll out in thin
cakes about the size of a breakfast-plate; put in a layer of strawberries with a light
sprinkle of sugar, then another cake of dough, another layer of strawberries and
sugar, with a top layer of dough ; bake it slowly in an oven or stove, and eat for
lunch or dessert, with sugar and butter sauce. This is the simple way to make straw-
berry short-cake ; any other acid berry may be treated in the same manner. The
usual way for other fruits is to make them into tarts; but try cherries, stoned and
made into a short-cake, and after the recipe for Grandmother's Short-cake.
Grandmother's Strawberry Short-Cake. — Take a coffee-cup of cream or
sour milk, beat into it a little salt and a small teaspoonful of soda, and before-it stops
foaming stir in enough flour to enable you to roll it out, but be sure not to get it very
stiff. Eoll into three circles, spread butter on top of each, and place one on top of
55
866 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
the other. Bake until well done, then pull the three layers apart, butter one and
cover with strawberries, then butter the second and lay, crust downwards, over the
first; then another layer of strawberries, and cover with the third crust. Set in the
oven a few minutes, and then, before serving hot, with cream, cover the top crust
with large fresh strawberries. Before making the crust, stir into three pints of ripe,
rich strawberries a coffee-cup of granulated sugar, and leave it covered over until the
crust is done. If cream or sour milk is not plenty, use sweet milk, and sift into the
flour two teaspoonfuls (scant) of baking powder, and as you roll out spread on three
tablespoonfuls of ice-cold butter. Pounded ice is excellent eaten on top of a saucer
of sugared berries. "Wrap the ice in a clean, coarse towel, and pound fine with a
potato-masher.
Pineapple Sliort-Cake. — A couple of hours before bringing the cake on the
table, take a very ripe, finelj^-flavored pineapple, peel it, cut it as thin as wafers, and
sprinkle sugar over it liberally; then cover it close. For the short-cake take sufficient
flour for one pie-dish, of butter the size of a small egg, a tablespoont'ul or two of
sugar, the yolk of an egg, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a very little salt, and
milk enough to make a very soft dough. Do not knead the dough, but just barely
mix it, and- press it into the pie-plate. The baking powder and butter, sugar and
salt, should be rubbed well through the flour, and the other ingredients then quickly
added. When time to serve, split the cake, spread the prepared pineapple between
the layers, and serve with nothing but sugar and sweet cream.
VIII. Puddings and their Sauces.
Puddings are either steamed, baked or boiled, and are made with and without
fruits. Bread, flour, rice, tapioca, corn starch, and various other gelatinous sub-
stances are used. Pudding sauces are made hard or liquid, and generally somewhat
acid.
White Sauce. — ^White sauce may be made with the whites of two unbeaten
eggs, and one cupful of white sugar, beaten together; add a teaspoonful of white
wine vinegar or other light-colored vinegar; beat well; just before carrying to the
table, add two-thirds of a cupful of cream and a tablespoonful of wine.
Wine Sauce. — This is made of three measures of sugar, one of butter and one
of wine.
Boiled Pudding Sauce. — The following is good : Beat a coffee-cupful of sugar
and one of butter thoroughly together. Then add a whisked egg. Mix well, place
on the fire and stir until melted; add a tablespoonful of wine or brandy, and serve
at once.
Plain Sauce. — To each wineglassful of thick paste, made of corn starch, add a
teacupful of butter and one of sugar. Work these together, with the yolk of an egg,
until thoroughly blended. Add the paste and the white of the egg beaten to a froth.
Mix thoroughly, and add any flavoring you like.
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 867
IX. Devonshire Cream.
An excellent dish, to be eaten with puddings, some piee, fruits, etc., and one of
the noted luxuries of the West of England, is "Devonshire cream," or "clotted
cream." It is prepared as follows : From six to eight quarts of milk are strained
into a thick earthenware pan or crock, which, when new, is prepared for use by stand-
ing in clear cold water for several days, and then scalded three or four times with
skimmed milk. Tin pans may be used if they are scalded in hot bran and left to
stand with the bran in them for twenty-four hours. The milk being strained into the
pans is set in a cool room, from nine to fourteen hours, according to the temperature.
It is then carefully moved to the top of the stove or range, or placed over a bright
fire, not too near it, and slowly heated, so that at the end of half an hour the cream
will have shrunken away from the sides of the pan and gathered into large wrinkles,
the milk at the sides of the pan commencing to simmer. The pan is then carefully
returned to the cool-room and left about ten hours. Then the cream is skimmed off.
This cream is very delicious to use on fruit or preserves, and is esteemed a great
luxury — selling for about the price per pound of the best butter.
X. English Plum Pudding.
The mgredients are : One and a half pounds suet, one and a half pounds of dry
light brown sugar, one and a half pounds currants, washed and dried thoroughly,
one and a half pounds raisins, four nutmegs sifted through a small tea-strainer and
thoroughly mixed, so they will not be lumpy; one-quarter pound candied lemon-peel,
one-quatter pound citron, a heaping spoonful of fine salt, mixed in the same way as
the nutmegs, baker's bread enough to make a quantity equal in bulk to the suet.
Use only the crumb of the loaf , rejecting the crust, (it will take nearly a loaf and a
half of ordinary size) a half pint of flour, nine eggs beaten very light, and milk
enough to wet the mixture. Chop the suet first, then add the bread-crumbs, sliced
citron and peel, raisins and currants. Then sift the salt and nutmegs in, stirring
thoroughly. Then add the sugar, and next sieve the flour in. Then pour in the
eggs, mixing thoroughly as before. You only need sufficient milk to moderately
moisten the pudding. Butter your tin basin well, put in your pudding, only leaving
room for a stiff batter of flour^and water which must be spread over the whole top
of the pudding to exclude the air and water. Then take stout, unbleached cotton,
tie it firmly over the top, round the rim of the basin, and bring the corners that hang
down back again over the top, pinning them securely. Put the pudding into boiling
water, tied in a pudding bag, and let it boil steadily at least ten hours. The best way
is to make a pudding, in cool weather, two or three days before needed, and then put
on again the day it is to be eaten, and boil three to four hours. Use cold sauce
made of sugar, butter and wine, or hot brandy sauce.
XI. Oatmeal Pudding or Porridge.
Oatmeal mush, like corn-meal, requires long boiling to cook it fully; but it is
y6.s
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
FAKINA AND POEEIDGE BOILEE.
now prepared by partly cooking at the manufactories, so that from five to fifteen
minutes' boihng makes it ready for the table. It
should be cooked in a porcelain or enameled pipkin.
If the raw oatmeal is used, cook as directed: Have
the pipkin two-thirds full of boiling water, into which
put a half teaspoonf ul of salt. Into this drop the oat-
meal with one hand, stirring with a wooden spatula
held by the other. "VMien it is the thickness of mush,
cover it and set it where it will keep boiling slowly for
an hour, beating it up occasionally to keep it well
mixed, and free from lumps. Dish and eat it hot,
with cold milk or cream. Butter and sugar melted upon
it destroy its fine diuretic qualities, and make it i-eally
less palatable. Porridge, gruel, thin cakes and a sort of
crackers, are the px-incipal methods of using oatmeal.
As a breakfast dish, the porridge made in the way
described above has no superior. It stimulates the action of the liver, and, in con-
junction with cranberries, eaten with a sauce, will restore a torpid liver to healthful
activity, if used for the morning meal, to the exclusion of fried meats, broiled ham,
and the like.
XII. Pour Puddings of Potatoes.
1. Mix together twelve ounces of boiled mashed potatoes, one ounce suet, one
ounce (one-sixteenth of a pint) of milk, and one ounce of cheese. The suet and
cheese to be melted or chopped as fine as possible. Add as
much hot water as will convert the whole into a tolerably
stiff mass ; then bake it for a short time in an earthen dish,
either in front of the fire or in an oven.
2. Twelve ounces of mashed potatoes, one ounce of
milk, and one ounce of suet, with salt. Mix and bake as
before.
3. Twelve ounces of mashed potatoes, one ounce of
suet, one ounce of red herring, chopped fine or bruised in a mortar. Mix and bake.
4. Twelve ounces of mashed potatoes, one ounce of suet, and one ounce of hung
beef, grated or chopped fine. Mix and bake.
XIII. Bro-WTi Betty.
One cup of bread-crumbs, two cups of chopped tart apples, half a cupful of
su^ar, one teaspoonf ul of cinnamon, and two teaspoonf uls of butter cut into small
pieces. Butter a deep dish, and put a layer of the chopped apples at the bottom:
sprinkle with sugar, a few bits of butter and cinnamon ; cover with bread-crumbs,
then more apple. Proceed in this order until the dish is full, having a layer of crumbs
at the top. Cover closely, and steam three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven;
DEEP PUDDING-PAXS.
PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 'S(i9
then uncover and brown quickly. Eat warm with sugar and cream or sweet sauce.
Serve in the dish in which it is balied.
XIV. Some Good. Puddings.
Suet Pudding. — Take one teacupful of chopioed suet, one of sour milk, one of
molasses ; also a teaspoonf ul of saleratus. Add flour to make it stiff. Use one tea-
cupful of raisin's, one of currants, one teaspoonf ul of each kind of spice, and three
eggs. Boil three hours.
Steamed Pudding, — Take one cupful of suet, chopped very fine, and one cup-
ful of molasses, one cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, half a teaspoon-
ful of cloves, one teaspoonful of soda; beat up three eggs, one cupful of chopped
raisins, four cupfuls of flour. Steam two hours. Eat with sugar and butter, or sugar
and milk.
Quaker Pudding. — Lay slices of light bread, cut thin and spread with butter,
in a pudding-dish, alternating the layers of bread with raisins until near the top.
Beat five eggs up well, and add to them a quart of milk, salted and spiced according
to taste. Pour this liquid over the contents of the dish. Bake the pudding half an
hour, and eat with sweet sauce. It will be necessary to boil the raisins in a very little
water so as to make them tender, and add the water with the rest.
Yorkshire Pudding. — Beat up four eggs, nine tablespoonfuls of flour, one
pint of milk, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Put it in the pan under beef which is
bein"- roasted. Bake half an hour. Serve with the beef.
Hominy Pudding. — Prepare as for batter cakes, adding one egg to each pint,
some cinnamon, a few raisins, sugar to suit the taste. Then bake just as you would
rice pudding. A little butter or chopped suet can be added. Serve hot, with or
without, sauce.
" Every-Day Pudding." — Take half a loaf of stale bread soaked in a quart of
milk; four eggs, four tablespoonfuls of flour; a little fruit, dried or fresh, is a great
addition. Steam or boil three-fourths of an hour. Serve with the following sauce :
Butter, suo-ar and water, thickened with a little corn-starch, and flavored with lemon
extract or lemon juice and rind.
XV. Dumplings.
Oxford Dumplings. — ^Mix well together two ounces of grated bread, four
ounces of currants, four ounces shred suet, a tablespoonful sifted sugar, a little
allspice, and plenty of grated lemon-peel. Beat up well two eggs, add a little milk,
and divide the mixture into five dumplings. Fry them in butter to a light-brown
color, and serve them with wine sauce.
The following is one form of dumpling for apples or other fruit, and is easily
prepared. The proportions are: One quart of flour, one egg, one teaspoonful of
soda, one pint of buttermilk, or enough to mix your flour, and a little salt. Have
ready plenty of boiling water. EoU vour dough about three-fourths of an inch thick.
870 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
cut out as for biscuit, and drop into the boiling water. Boil ten minutes. Do not let
them remain after they are done, or they will fall, on taking them from the water.
Have apple-sauce or other fruit previously prepared, and spread it on the
dumplings in your plate and pour sweetened cream over it.
Apple Dumplings. — Pare and core as many ajDples as you wish and
enclose them in puff paste, after putting half a clove and a little lemon-
peel, and a trifle of mace, into the hole made by taking out the core. Wrap
in bits of linen, or put into a net, and boil an hour. Before serving cut
out a plug of the paste, put a teaspoonful of sugar and a little butter in-
side and replace the plug. Strew powdered sugar over all and serve with sauce.
XVI. A Hen's Nest, and the Sauce.
Take half a dozen eggs, make a hole at one end and empty the shells, fill them
with blanc-mange; when stiff and cold take off the shells; pare lemon-rind very thin,
boil in water until tender, then cut in thin strips to resemble straw, and preserve in
sugar; fill a deep dish half full of jelly or cold custard, jiut the eggs in and lay the
straws, nest-like, around them. To make sauce for the pudding, take one cupful of
butter, one cupful of sugar, yolk of one egg ; beat together and stir in one cup of
boiling water. Let it come to a boil, and when ready for use, flavor to taste.
A nice dish to go with this is made by filling coffee-cups loosely with straw-
berries, and pouring over them Graham flour mush, or instead, thicken sweet boiling
milk to a consistency which is thin enough to fill the interstices between the berries,
and yet thick enough to be firm when cool. Turn out and serve up with cream and
sugar.
XVII. Fruit Puddings.
]\iAKE a crust of Graham flour, sour cream, soda, and a pinch of salt. Pass the
flour through a coarse sieve, so as to relieve it of the coarser bits of bran. For a
family of six persons line a quart basin with the crust, a quarter of an inch thick.
Fill the basin thus lined, with fruit — plums or peaches are best. Let the fruit be of
the choicest variety. Cover the whole with a rather thick crust, and steam until the
crust is thoroughly cooked. Serve with white sugar and thick, sweet cream. This
has been called Queen of puddings, and can be eal^en with a comparatively clear
conscience.
Apple Tapioca Pudding. — One coffee-cupful tapioca, covered with three pints
of cold water, and soaked over night. In the morning set it on the side of the range,
or stove, stirring it often until it becomes transparent. If too thick, add more water,
until it is as thin as good, clear starch. Stir in a small teaspoonful of salt. Pare
and core, without breaking, as many good apples as will lie close on the bottom of a
medium-sized pudding-dish. Fill the holes full of sugar, and a very little nutmeg
and cinnamon ; then pour over the tapioca, and bake slowly until the apples are soft
and well done. To be eaten with hard sauce, which is made as follows: One cup
sugar, two-thirds of a cup butter, beaten together until perfectly smooth and white.
PASTRY AJTD PUDDINGS. 871
Boiled Grape Pudding. — Pare rich, tart apples, and cut to the size of a chest-
nut by cutting each quarter in four pieces, and add an equal measure of grapes, say
one pint of each, and stir into it two spoonfuls of wheat meal. Then make a scalded
wheat-meal crust, roll to one-third of an inch thick, place in it the prepared fruit,
close it over the fruit, sew up in a napkin, put into boiling water and boil an hour.
Grape dumplings may be made with the same materials ; wrapping up half a teacupf ul
of the fruit in a crust, and, for convenience, placing it in a patty-pan, and setting in
the steamer. Cook until the apples are rather soft. Serve warm with sauce.
Plain Apple Pudding* — Pare, quarter and core apples to fill a small dish
rather more than half, and pour in water two inches deep. Make a crust of one pint
of flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt, arid baking powder enough to make it light.
Add a level teaspoonful of lard, and flour enough to make a wet dough, and roll out
quickly, put over the pudding-dish, and set on a hot stove. Cover tightly with a tin
cover, on which put a flat-iron. The steam produced cooks the pudding quickly.
Fifteen minutes will be found long enough. Serve hot, with hard sauce made of but-
ter and sugar.
Sweet-Apple Pudding. — One pint of scalded milk, half a pint of Indian meal,
one small teacupful of finely-chopped suet, two teaspoonfuls of salt, six sweet apples
cut in small pieces, one great-spoon of molasses, half a teaspoonful of ginger, nutmeg or
cinnamon — whichever is most desirable— two eggs well beaten, and half a teaspoonful
of soda. Beat all well together, put into a pudding-mould, and boil two hours.
Dried-Peach Pudding. — Cut in small pieces one piivt of dried peaches, wash
them, and boil in just enough water to cover them. When they are tender, add two
tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and boil a few minutes longer, and then they will
resemble cooked raisins. Make a stiff batter of three eggs, one tablespoonful of but-
ter, one teacupful of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of soda and two of cream of tartar,
sifted in a quart of flour. You may not have to use all the flour — just enough to
make a stiff batter. Stir your peaches in the batter and bake in a buttered pan, and
you will have a delicious pudding, which no one can tell from one made of raisins.
Any other dried fruit may be used in the same way. Serve with butter sauce
Fig Pudding. — Take one pound of figs, six ounces of suet, three-quarters of a
pound of flour, and milk. Chop the suet finely, mix it with the fiour, and make in to a
smooth paste with milk. Roll it out about half an inch thick, cut the figs in small
pieces, -and, stew them over the paste. Roll it up, make the ends secure, tie the pud-
dino- in a cloth, and boil from one and a half to two hours.
Cherry Pudding. — A nice pudding can be made by boiling one-half pint of
rice half an hour in five times as much water, and pouring it boiling hot into one pint
of wheat meal. Mix thoroughly, and place it in small spoonfuls in a nappy — a round
earthen dish with flat bottom and sloping sides — interlaying it with a pint of cherries.
Steam half or three-quarters of an hour. Serve warm, trimming it with melted
sugar, or sweetened cherry-juice, or some other sweet sauce". This recipe can be used
for such other small fruits in their season as will bear cooking enough to do the
Of2 THE HOME A>v"D FAE:M JtANUAI..
wheat-meal. Half an hour is the least that will answer for that purpose ; three-
quarters of an hour is better.
Apple Souffle. — Stew the apples and add a little grated lemon peel and juice,
omitting butter; line the sides and bottom of a baking-dish with them. Make a boiled
custard with one pint of milk and two eggs,
flavoring with lemon and sweetening it to taste.
Let it cool and then pour into the center of the
dish. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth,
spread them over the top; sprinkle white sugar
all over them, and brown in the oven. The
^,->T „T-T.T,T^>^ T..„ stewed apple should be about, half an inch thick
on the bottom and sides of the pudding-dish.
Bird's Nest Pudding. — Take sour apples, peel, quarter and core enough to
coyer the bottom of a common square tin. Make a batter of one cup of buttermilk,
one-half cupful of cream, two eggs, a little salt, one teaspoonful of soda, and flour
enough to thicken about like fritters. Pour this over the apples and bake in a quick
oven. Eat while hot, with butter or cream sauce.
XVIII. Puddings of Grain, etc.
Rice Pudding. — Eice pudding is eaten by everybody, even the most delicate. _
A good way to make it is as follows : In a quart bowl, take two eggs and two heaping
tablespoonfuls of sugar, well beaten together; fill the bowl half full of cooked rice,
bits of butter, and a handful of raisins; stir all well together, and then fill the bowl
with new milk. After the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, bake in a hot oven half
an hour. "When set away to cool, take a spoon and stir it up, so as to mix in the
melted butter on the top and the raisins in the bottom. Eat with cream, slightly
sweetened. Season with nutmeg, or whatever vou like.
Rice Pudding without Eggs. — A pudding without eggs can be made by
taking one cup of rice to one-half gallon milk and one cup of sugar. Bake untU the
rice is done. Flavor to j^our taste.
Corn Pudding. — Take canned corn (in the season, green corn scraped from
the cob) and add to one can of corn a quart of cold milk, three eggs well beaten, two
tablespoonfuls of sugar and one teaspoonful of salt. If not sweet enough, add sugar;
if too thick, more milk. Pour this into buttered dishes and bake. It is delicious
for tea.
Rizena Pudding. — Rizena is a food preparation of rice. A pudding of this is
made by mixing four large spoonfuls of rizena with half a pint of cold milk, and stir
it into a quart of boiling milk until it boils again ; then remove, stir in butter the size
of an egg and a little salt; let it cool, and add four eggs, well beaten, two-thirds of a
cup of white sugar, grated nutmeg, and half a wineglassful of brandy, or other flavor-
ing if preferred ; bake in a buttered dish twenty minutes. To be eaten hot, with
sauce. It can hardly be said to be superior to rice.
, PASTRY AND PUDDINGS. 873
XIX. Miscellaneous Puddings.
Floating Island. — Take the yolks of seven eggs to one quart of milk, one cup-
ful of sugar, a little salt, and flavor with lemon. Beat all together, and set in a kettle
of water other than the kettle it is boiled in. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff
froth, and pile in heaps on top of the boiled milk, after it has been put in the float
glasses. This will make twelve glasses full. They look very pretty set in a circle
round a bouquet of flowers, in the center or at each end of the table.
Charlotte Kusse. — Take a box of sparkling gelatine and pour on it a scant
pint and a half of cold water; when it has stood ten minutes add the same quantity
of boiling water, and stir until the gelatine is dissolved; stir
in half a pound of white sugar; have ready six eggs, well
beaten separately, and then together, and when the jellj" is
cool, but not congealed, beat it into the eggs; whij) very
lightly three pints of rich cream, flavored with vanilla or
almond, or both, and when the eggs and jelly begin to con- charlotte russe pan.
geal, beat it in as rapidly as possible, and pour the mixture in
a bowl lined with lady-fingers or sponge-cake
Spice Pudding. — Take one cupful of butter, one cupful of molasses, and one
cupful of sweet milk, three cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of ground cloves, one
of cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of allspice, one teaspoonful of soda, one egg, and
plenty of raisins. Steam three hours. A liquid sauce for spice pudding is made by
taking six tablespoonfuls of sugar, four tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, one tablespoonful of flour, ten of boiling water, and a small lump of
tartaric acid ; flavor with lemon. Mix thoroughly and boil.
Delicate Padding. — Take one quart of milk, and while boiling stir in one pint
of sifted flour, six eggs, six tablespoonfuls of white sugar, one spoonful of butter,
the grated peel and juice of two lemons. All the ingredients must be well beaten
together before they are stirred into the milk. Stir one way without stopping for a
minute or two, take it off, and turn into your pudding-dish. It is to be eaten cold,
with sugar and cream if you like.
Orange Pudding. — Take four fair-sized oranges, peel, seed, and cut in small
pieces. Add one cup of sugar, and let it stand. Into one cup of nearly boiling
milk stir two tabespoonfuls of corn starch, mixed with a little water and the yolks of
three eggs. When done, let it cool, and mix with the orange. Make a frosting of
the whites of the eggs and half a cup of sugar. Spread over the top of the pudding,
and put it into the oven for a few moments to brown.
Eve's Pudding. — Take half a pound of apples, half a pound of bread-crumbs,
a pint of milk, half a pound of currants, six ounces of sugar, two eggs, and the
grated rind of a lemon. Chop the apple small; add the bread-crumbs, currants,
sugar and lemon-peel, then the eggs, well beaten; boil it three hours, in a buttered
mould, and serve with sweet sauce.
874 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL,
Bachelor's Pudding. — Three eggs, well beaten, (the white of one beaten sepa-
rately until firm enough to cut with a knife), two teacupfuls of milk, one teacupful
of sugar, one soda cracker broken in six pieces, a slice of peeled orange laid on each
piece and sprinkled with sugar ; put them in the dish and they will float ; bake in a
very hot oven, and, when half done, put a spoonful of the white of beaten egg on
each piece; return to the oven and bake five minutes, and you have a splendid dish.
Cocoanut Bread Pudding. — Boil one quart of milk submerged in a boiler.
When hot, add a teacupful of grated cocoanut, and boil two hours. Add a cup of
bread-crumbs, two eggs well beaten, and half a cup of sugar. Currants or raisins
may be added. Boil one hour, and eat cold.
XX. Custards and Creams.
Frozen Custard. — This is a nice dish for dessert, and very easily prepared:
Boil two quarts of rich milk. Beat eight eggs and a teacupful of sugar together, and
after the milk has boiled, pour it over the eggs and sugar, stirring all the while.
Pour the whole mixture into your kettle, and let it come to a boil, stirring it con-
stantly. Then take it off. the fire, and let it become cold. Flavor it with whatever
essence you prefer. Then freeze it.
Chocolate Custard.^Scrape half a cake of good chocolate, and put it into a
stew-pan, and moisten by degrees with a pint of warm milk and cream ; when welb
dissolved, mix with the yolks of eggs, and finish the same as for other custards.
Bohemian Cream. — Take four ounces of any kind of fruit, stone it, and
sweeten. Pass it through a sieve, adding one ounce and a half of melted or dissolved
isinglass to each half pint of fruit. Mix well, then whip a pint of rich cream, and
add the isinglass and fruit gradually to it. Pour all into a mould, set it on ice or
where it is very cool, and when set, dip the mould a moment into water, and then
turn it out ready for the table.
Whipped Cream. — Sweeten one pint of sweet cream, and add essence of
lemon. Beat up the whites of four eggs until they are very light, adding them to the
cream. Whip both together. As fast as the froth rises, skim it off, .put in glasses,
and continue until they are full.
CHAPTEE VI.
CAKE-MAKING.
CAKE AN EOONOMICAl, FOOD. II. GENERAL EUXES FOB MAKING CAKE. III. ICING, GLAZING AND
OENAMENTING. IV. EECIPES FOE FROSTING. V. ORNAMENTING CAICB. VI. SPECIAL PEEP-
AEATIONS. VII. FEDTT CAKE, DAEK. ^VIII. RICH POUND-CAKE. IX. MISCELLANEOUS CAKES.
X. MOEE GOOD CAKES. XI. GINGERBREAD AND OTHEE "HOMELY" CAKES. XII. THE
HOUSE-WIFE'S TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS.
I. Cake an Economical Food.
fE have known persons begrudge their families cake, on the ground that it was
expensive. This is a mistake. Milk, eggs, butter, flour and sugar are the
'^f^ ingredients of most cakes. The three first all farmers have, or should have
J^ plenty of, and sugar is no longer costly. As a condensed food, cake is
cheaper than the best beefsteak, even in the country, and more than twice as nour-
ishing. Eggs are more nourishing, pound for pound, than fresh meat, and a quart
of good milk contains as much nourishment as a pound of fresh beef.
II. General Rules for Making Cake.
There are some general rules for making cake that must be observed :
1. The ingredients must be of the best, for the best .are most economical.
2. Never allow butter to get oily before mixing it in the cake.
3. Always have an earthen or other enameled dish to mix and work the materials
for cake. Tin, if not new, is apt to
discolor the material. Remember that
egg will tarnish even silver. Hence
always use a clean wooden spoon.
4. As a rule, in mixing cake, first
beat the sugar and butter together to a
cream; then add the yolks of the eggs.
If spices or liquors are used, these
come in with the yolks of eggs ; then
corqes milk; and last, the thoroughly
whisked whites of the eggs and the
flavor. If fruit is a portion, this is put beating bowl.
in with the flour.
5. For small cakes the oven should be pretty hot; for larger cakes only moder-
ately so. If a broom-straw, pushed through the thick part of the cake, comes out
clean and free from dough, the cake is done.
[875]
876 THE HOME AND TAEM MANUAL.
6. When you take the cake from the oven, do not remove from the pans untii
it is somewhat cool — not sooner than fifteen minutes. When you* take it from the
pans, do not turn it over; set it down on a clean cloth, on its bottam, and cover with
another clean cloth.
These directions have as many parts as an old-fashioned sermon. Fortunately
they are not so long.
III. Icing, Glazing and Ornamenting.
1. A GLAZED shallow earthen dish should be used in making the icing.
2. Allow a full quarter of a pound, or more, of the finest white sugar to the
white of each egg.
3. Lemon-juice and tartaric acid whiten the icing. If used, more sugar will
be required.
4. Sprinkle the egg with part of the sugar, and beat, adding more sugar from
time to time. If you use flavoring, add it last.
5. Dredge the cake thoroughly with flour after it is baked; then wipe it care-
fully before icing or frosting. It will then spread more kindly.
6. Put the frosting on in large spoonfuls. Begin in the center and spread with
a thin-bladed knife or spatula, dipped from time to time in ice-water.
7. Let the frosting dry in a cool place.
IV. Recipes for Frosting.
Take the whites of eight eggs; beat to a stiff and perfect froth. Add pulverized
white sugar, two pounds; starch, one tablespoonf ul ; pulverized gum Arabic, one-half
ounce, and the juice of a lemon. Sift sugar, starch and gum Arabic into the beaten
eggs, and stir until perfectly firm.
Beat the white of an egg until you can turn the plate over without the egg run-
ning off, then add five heaping tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar and one of starch.
This quantity will frost one small cake. Flavor to taste.
Glazing. — Put into a porcelain or other glazed vessel, with a little water, the
white of one egg well beaten, and stirred well into the water; let it boil, and whilst
boiling, throw in a tew. drops of cold water. Then stir in a cupful of pounded sugar.
This must boil to a foam, then be used; this makes a nice glace for cakes.
v. Ornamenting Cakes.
For figures or flowers, beat up two eggs, reserving a third (white) till the cake
has become dry after icing. Then insert a clean glass sjringe into the remainder,
and direct as you choose over the iced cake. Dry again. Ripe fruit may be laid on
the icing when about half dry, with a very pretty effect, such as berries, etc. Save
a little icing out, dilute with rosewater, and put on when that first done is dry. It
gives a smooth, gloss.
The ornamentation may be colored pink by mixing a very little carmine or straw-
berry juice in the egg. The yellow rind of lemons, put in a bag and squeezed hard
CAKE-MAKINU.
877
into the icing will give a yellow. So will a little butter-color, or preparation of anatto.
For raised figures formed of frosting, a cone of strong white paper, rolled, with a
proper orifice at the bottom, answers well, since it may be held upright, and easily
directed to make the desired figures.
VI. Special Preparations.
Chocolate preparation is made as directed for other frosting, with the whites of
two eggs, one and a half cupfuls of best white ground sugar, six tablespoonfuls of
grated chocolate and two tablespoonfuls of vanilla. Spread between the layers and
on top of the cake, and serve while fresh, or when not more than one day old.
Ice-Cream Icing for Cake.— This is used for white cake : Take two cups of
white sugar boiled to a thick syrup ; add three teaspoonfuls of vanilla, and when
cool, the whites of three eggs beaten to a froth; flavor with two teaspoonfuls of
citric acid.
OCTAGON CAKE-MOtlLD.
TURK'S-HEAD CAKE -MOULD.
VII. Fruit Cake— Dark.
The quantity of fruit is according to how rich the cake is to be made. The pro-
portions for a rich, dark cake may be : Two pounds of raisins (stoned), two pounds
of currants, one pound of almonds (blanched), one pound of citron or candied peel
and fruit, one pound of moist sugar, one pound of butter, one pound of flour, one
dozen eggs, one teaspoonful of mace, one tablespoonful of cinnamon, one nutmeg,
one wineglassful of brandy, and one of wine. The fruit should be cut up rather
coarse, and the almonds in not more than three pieces. Roll the fruit in flour to sepa-
rate it, reserving some almonds and citron for sticking in the top of the cake, but
entirely out of sight. Beat the fruit into the eggs after they have been perfectly
whisked ; also the butter and sugar after they are creamed together. Let the rest of
the flour be lightly stirred in just before putting the cake to rise. Put embers under
it, and let it rise for three hours. Bake slowly for three hours, or until, by trying with
a straw, you find it quite done. When taken from the oven, let the cake stand in the
pan at least two hours, or if it is very large, leave it in a warm place all night. It
will then be ready for frosting, and will keep indefinitely in a dark, cool place. The
pan in which it is baked must be lined with buttered white paper. The white paper
is also used for pound cake.
878 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
VIII. Rich Pound-Cake.
Take one pound each of white sugar, butter, and flour; ten eggs, a wineglassful
of brandy, half a nutmeg, and a teaspoonful of vanilla or essence of lemon. Beat
the sugar and butter to a cream, whisk the eggs to a froth, and beat all the ingre-
dients together until perfectly light. Bake in a moderately heated oven an hour.
Turn the cake out of the tin, invert it, and set the cake on the bottom to cool. Put
on the frosting when cold.
Cocoanut Pound-Cake. — This is made with one pound of sugar, half a pound
of butter, one teacupful of fresh milk, one pound of flour, one cocoanut grated, four
eggs, the peel of half a lemon grated, or half a teaspoonful of essence of lemon, and
a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Make as directed for pound-cake, but put in
the cocoanut last. Bake in buttered tins, the cake-batter being put in an inch deep.
The heat should be rather quick, and the cake is to be iced as directed for fruit
cake.
SPONGE-CAKE PANS. DEEP JELLY-CAKE PANS
IX. Miscellaneous Cakes.
Boll Jelly Cake. — Take one cupful of white sugar, one-half teacupful of sweet
milk, two eggs, one cupful of flour, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one-fourth of a
teaspoonful saleratus, apinchof salt, and such flavoring as you like. This will make two
cakes in a square tin. Have the oven ready, put the cakes in, and while they are baking,
get a cloth and the jelly ready on the table. As soon as they are baked, take them
out and turn them one at a time on the cloth, spread quickly with jelly or marmalade,
and roll up tightly in the cloth and lay them where they will cool. Handle them
carefully or they may fall. Cut them with a sharp knife in slices.
Sponge Cake. — Take one pound of granulated sugar beaten with the yolks of
ten eggs. , Grate into this the yellow rind of two lemons, and add the juice of one;
then beat the whites of the ten eggs separately, very light, and add the same, stirring
lightly together. To this add three-fourths of a pound of flour, and stir lightly with-
out beating. This will make three good-sized loaves. Care must be taken in baking
not to put the pans in too hot an oven.
French Cream Cake. — Take three eggs, one cupful of sugar, one and a half
cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, and two tablespoonfuls of cold
water. This is enough for two pans. Split the cakes while warm and spread the
custard while hot between them.
To make the custard, boil nearly one pint of sweet milk. Take two tablespoon-
fuls of corn starch. Beat up with a little milk to this. Add two well-beaten eggs.
OAKE-MAKING. 879
When the milk has boiled up stir this in slowly with nearly a teacupful of sugar.
When almost done add half a cupful of butter and iiavor to taste.
Delicate Cake. — Take one and one-half cupfuls of white sugar, half a cupful
of butter; rub these to a cream. Add half a cupful of sweet milk, in which dis-
solve half a teaspoonful of soda, and two cupfuls of flour, in which rub one teaspoonful
of cream of tartar; add a little salt and flavor with vanilla or lemon. Beat the
whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, and add last. Bake slowly an hour in a moderate
oven. This recipe will make a two-quart basin loaf, and if the proportions are fol-
lowed exactly, a beautiful cake will be the result.
Marble Cake. — The white part is made with one-half cupful of white sugar,
one-half cupful of butter, half, a cupful of sweet milk; whites of four eggs, two and
one-half cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder. Flavor with lemon.
For the spiced part take one cupful of brown sugar, one-half cupful of molasses,
one-half cupful of butter, one cupful of sour milk. Take the yolks of five eggs,
and the white of one egg, two cupfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one of
cloves, one nutmeg, one-half teaspoonful of soda.
Orange Cake. — Use one cupful of butter, one of sweet milk, two of sugar,
two' teaspoonfuls of baking powder, five eggs, reserving the whites of three, to be
beaten to a stiff froth to go between the cakes. The remainder of the five eggs must
go in the batter. Three and a half cupfuls of flour; grate two oranges (picking out
the seeds and large pieces) into the batter. Take two cupfuls of pulverized sugar,
beat with the reserved whites as frosting ; then put between cakes as you would jelly
cake.
Drop Cakes. — Take one pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of
butter and three eggs: Beat the. butter and flour to a cream, beat the eggs separately,
add the yolks and part of the flour, then the whites and the remainder of the flour.
Stir in half a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of citron, and a teaspoonful
of mace or cinnamon. Drop with a spoon upon flat tins, and sift sugar over them.
Lady Fingers. — Beat the yolks of four eggs with a quarter of a pound of
sugar until smooth and light; whisk the whites of the eggs and add to these, and sift
in a quarter of a pound of flour. Make into a smooth paste, and lay it on buttered
paper, in the size and shape the cakes are required. Bake quickly. While hot, press
two of the cakes into one on the flat side.
Newport Cake. — Sift one quart of flour; add three eggs, three tablespoonfuls
of white sugar, three of butter, two teaspoonfuls of cream tartar, one of soda, one
cupful of sweet milk, or sufficient to make a stiff batter. Bake quick and eat warm
or cold. This is a superior tea cake.
A Nice Cake. — Take two and one-half pounds of flour, one and one-fourth
pounds of pulverized white sugar, ten ounces of fresh butter, five eggs, well beaten,
one-eighth ounce of carbonate of ammonia, one pint of water; milk is better if you
have it. Koll out, cut into cakes and bake. While yet hot, dredge over with coarse
sugar.
880 THE HOME AND FAEM JIAJsX'AL.
X. More Good Cakes.
Children's Party Cakes. — ^Take three heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered
sugar, two of butter, one of maizena or corn starch, one egg; put with this two cup-
fuls of flour, half a cupful of sweet milk, a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, half a tea-
spoonful of soda, a pinch of salt, and Zante currants. Roll this out in powdered
sugar, cut the dough in strips, and twist round a thimble-sized pin. Sprinkle over
this candied caraway-seeds, and bake in a brisk oven on flat. tins. These are called
children's party cakes, and also "goody" cakes.
Scotcll Cake. — Take one pound of fine flour, a half-pound of fresh butter, a
half-pound of finely sifted loaf sugar; mix well in a paste, roll out an inch thick in a
square shape, pinch the edges so as to form small points ; ornament with comfits and
orange-peel chips ; bake in a quick oven until of a pale lemon color.
nice Cake. — Take about four ounces of rice flour, sift three ounces of wheat
flour into it, add eight ounces of granulated sugar, the rind of a lemon grated fine,
six eggs, using all the yolks, and but half the whites. Beat the whole together for
about twenty minutes, and bake about three-quarters of an hour.
Tea Cake. — Break one egg into a teacup. Fill the cup
with sweet milk. One cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of
butter, a little nutmeg, one teaspoonful each of saleratus and
cream of tartar. Flour to make it the consistency of common
sponge cake.
Christmas Cake. — Two eggs, one-half cupful of butter,
CAKECUTTEE. ^^^ cupful of molasses, one cupful of raisins, two cupfuls of
flour, and various spices. Mix and bake in a rather brisk oven.
Taylor Cake. — Two and one-half cupfuls of flour, one and one-half cupfuls of
sugar, one-half cupful of butter, one-half cupful of inilk, one egg, one-half teaspoon-
ful of soda, and with or without fruit.
Silver Cake. — Take one h.alf coffee-cupful of butter, one and one-half cupful of
sugar, two cupfuls flour, one-half cupful milk, one teaspoonful cream of tartar, one-
half teaspoonful soda and the whites of eight eggs.
Gold Cake. — Use the same ingredients, and proceed in the same manner, only
substituting the yolks of the eggs.
" Widow's Cake." — A palatable cake to be eaten as bread or rusks at tea is
made with two cupfuls flour, one of meal, teaspoonful soda; one cupful molasses, two
eggs, salt. ^lix with warm milk. Bake in a quick oven.
Spice Cake. — One cupful of sugar, one cupful of sour milk, one cupful of
raisins, one egg, a nutmeg, one teaspoonful of cloves, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon,
one teaspoonful of soda and three cupfuls of flour. Bake slowly but steadily until
done.
Another. — One cupful butter, one of brown sugar, one and one-half of sour
milk, one pint molasses, one tablespoonful saleratus, three eggs, cinnamon, cloves^
alls{)ice, nutmegs, citron, currants, raisins. Stir stiff with flour.
CAKE-MAKING. 881
Hickory -Nut Cake. — Take a half cupful of butter, two cupfuls of sugar and
four eggs beaten separately ; then three cupfuls of flour, one-half cupful of sweet
milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, two cupfuls of hickory-nut meats cut fine,
with one teaspoonful extract vanilla.
XI. Gingerbread and Other " Homely " Cakes.
Ginger Snaps. — One cupful of brown sugar, one cupful of molasses, one cup-
ful of lard, two eggs, a small teacup half full of boiling water, two teaspoonfuls of
ginger, two of cinnamon, a teaspoonful of saleratus. EoU thin, cut out, and bake in
a quick oven.
Ginger Cookies. — One cupful of molasses, one-half cupful of sugar, two-thirds
cupful of butter, one-half cupful of water,
one egg, two teaspoonfuls of saleratus,
one-half teaspoonful of alum, one tea-
spoonful of ginger, flour enough to roll
out soft. Bake quick. gookie-pans.
Sponge Gingerbread. — Sift two
teaspoonfuls of soda and a dessert-spoonful of ginger, in two cupfuls of molasses.
Stir thoroughly, and add four well-beaten eggs, one cupful of butter, melted, one
cupful of sour milk or buttermilk, in which is dissolved one teaspoonful of soda.
Add flour until the whole is of the consistency of a pretty thick batter. Make into
two loaves and bake.
Soft Gingerbread. — Take one cupful of molasses, one cupful of sugar, one
cupful of sour milk, half a cupful of butter, five cupfuls of sifted flour, and some-
what more than half a teaspoonful of soda. Melt the butter in the molasses and
sugar, with the soda, add the ginger, and, if you like, a little cloves, the sour milk and
flour. The cake should be just stiff enough (a thick batter) to rise nicely in baking
and not fall afterwards.
Ginger Cake. — Two cupfuls molasses, one cupful butter, one and a half cup-
fuls sour milk, three and a half cupfuls flour, three eggs, two teaspoonfuls saleratus,
one tablespoonful ginger, one tablespoonful cinnamon, one tablespoonful cloves.
Cookies. — One cupful of white sugar, rolled fine, and mixed with a half-cupful
of butter; a half cupful of sour cream, mixed with a half teaspoonful saleratus.
Add two eggs thoroughly beatenl Season with caraway-seeds or nutmeg. Roll thin,
sprinkle sugar on. ■ Roll lightly once, cut them out in a circular shape and bake them
in a quick oven.
Soda Cakes. — Take one quart of flour, one teaspoonful of soda, and one of cream
of tartar, dissolved in hot water ; one tablespoonful of lard and one of butter, rubbed
into the flour ; a little salt, mix soft with sour milk or buttermilk, and cut with a tin
in round cakes ; bake in a quick oven.
Short-Cake. — Mix with a pint of flour a lump of butter the size of an egg, rub
up well with baking powder, or use two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar in flour;
5G
882 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
powder fine one teaspoonful saleratus. Add one cupful of cold water. Make a stiff
batter ; add flour if needed. Bake on tin for tea. If you use buttermilk you will
not need cream of tartar, nor as much butter.
Custard. Cake. — Two cupfuls powdered sugar, one-half cupful sweet milk, six
tablespoonfuls melted butter, one teaspoonful baking powder, two and one-half cup-
fuls flour; bake as for jelly cake, and when cool, add the following custard: One
pint milk, three eggs, sugar and flour to suit the taste, and prepare as for boiled
custard.
Drop Johimies.— One cupful sugar and two eggs well beaten together, one
cupful cream, three cupfuls buttermilk, one large heaping teaspoonful of saleratus.
Salt and spice to suit your taste. Thicken with flour to a stiff batter. Drop in hot
fat, a spoonful at a time. Fry the same as fried cakes.
Virginia Apple Cake. — One cupful of bread dough, one and a half cupfuls of
sugar. When ready, roll an inch thick, put it in a long pan, then slice good baking
apples thin, and put smoothly over the dough ; sprinkle sugar, butter and cinnamon
over, and bake.
Pork Cake. — Chop one pound fat pork very fine. Stone and chop one pound
raisins. Pout a pint of boiling water over the pork. Use one cupful of molasses,
two of sugar, eight of flour, one tablespoonful ground cloves, one of cinnamon, one
of saleratus, one egg — ^the white to be added last.
Yankee Douglinuts, Raised. — Heat a pint of milk just lukewarm, and stir
into it a small cupful of melted lard, and sifted flour until it is a thick batter; add a
small cupful of domestic yeast, and keep it warm until the batter is light; then work
into it four beaten eggs, two cupfuls of sugar, rolled free from lumps, a teaspoonful
of salt and two of cinnamon. When the whole is well mixed, knead in wheat flour
until about as stiff as biscuit dough. Set it where it will keep warm until of a spongy
lightness ; then roll the dough out half an inch thick and cut it into cakes. Let them
remain until light, then fry them in hot lard.
Pried Cakes. — Take four cupfuls of white sugar, four of buttermilk, one of
butter, two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of soda. Season with cinnamon, mix quite, hard,
roll half an inch thick, cut in rings. They will fry much nicer than when twisted.
Griddle-Cakes. — To one quart of flour add one teaspoonful of cream of tartar
and one three-fourths full of soda, mix with sour or butter milk, and bake on a grid-
dle; season to taste. Buttermilk cakes made the same way, adding two eggs, are
very nice.
Coffee Cake. — One teacupful of brown sugar, one of molasses, one of lukewarm
strong coffee, one egg, one cupful of butter, one teaspoonful of soda, one pound of
raisins. Use plenty of spice. This cake is much nicer for dipping in coffee if it is
not cut until it is several days old.
XII. The Housewife's Table of Equivalents.
Often in giving recipes — cup, wineglass, spoon, etc., are mentioned. It is the
CAKE-MAKING. 883
usual way in which ladies measure, and the majority of the recipes we have given
were furnished by ladies who are excellent cooks. The following table is one of
equivalents that will be found approximately correct.
Wheat flour — one pound is One quart.
Indian meal — one pound two ounces are One quart.
Butter, when soft — one pound is One quart.
Loaf sugar, broken — one pound is . . . One quart.
White sugar, powdered — one pound one ounce are One quart.
Best brown sugar — one pound two ounces are .... .... One quart.
Ten eggs are .... One pound.
Sixteen large tablespoonfuls are . .... One-half pint
Eight large tablespoonfuls are . . . . . One gill.
Four large tablespoonfuls are . One-half giU.
Two gills are . One-half pint.
Two pints are One quart.
Four quarts are One gallon.
A common-sized tumbler holds One-half pint.
A common-sized wineglass holds One-half gill.
A lai-ge wineglass equal to .... Two ounces.
A tablespoonful equal to One-half ounce.
A teacup holds One gill.
A large wineglass holds One gill.
Forty drops are equal to One teaspoonful
Four teaspoonfuls are equal to . . One tablespoonful.
CHAPTER VII.
BEVERAGES, ICES AND CANDIES.
PUEE WATEE AS A BEVEEAGE. H. I'EA AND COEFEE. UI. HOW TO MAKE TEA. IV. THE
TEA-MAKING OF VAltlOUS PEOPLES. ^V. A CUP OP COFFEE. VI. CHOCOLATE. ^VII. REFEESH-
ING DEINKS. Vm. SUMMBE DEINKS IX. TOMATO BEEE. X. ICE CEEAM AND WATEE ICES.
XI. CANDY -MAKING. XH. CANDIED FEUIT.
I. Pure Water as a Beverage.
Ij^pO person, now-a-days, can altogether get along withouu some beverage other
than pure water. Not that the water drunk by man is pure; none of it is, for
the minerals contained in the purest spring water, from the chemist's stand-
point render it impure, but not, on this account, unhealthful. In fact, the
lime, soda, magnesia, and other minerals of spring and well water, if it is in no way
impregnated by leachings of the house or barn-yard, or uncontaminated with sewage,
is more healthful than chemically pure water. But if impregnated with these last-
named impurities, it is more deadly than the miasma of Roman
marshes in the dog-days.
Impurities in Well-Water. — The water of a well may
be bright, sparkling and most pleasant to the taste, and yet
contain the deadly typhus and noxious germs, bringing diph-
theria, meningitis, and other diseases that so mysteriously
appear in neighborhoods apparently good in sanitary surround-
ings. How, then, do these germs reach a well, sunk in strong
clay to a living stream of water, deep in gravel below ? They
come in by the surface water. The roots of the willows and
• most other trees go to water if they can. Every insect bur-
rowing in the soil must have water, and they invariably burrow
there, especially in great droughts, and seek the water of the
well. Their burrows convey water from cesspools, house-
drains, barn-yards, etc., for considerable distances, through
the otherwise impervious clay. In digging or boring a well,
the section down ito, and partly into, the impervious clay
should be larger than the rest, and strongly cemented with the
best water lime at the back, and the stone or brick laid with
the same material. But, after all, the only safe way to escape
impurities is to boil all the water that is used for drinking.
If the water is muddy, or has other mechanical impurities, it may be improved by
filtering. But water is not, never has been, and never will be, the exclusive beverage
n'" I ■ I
WATER-FILTER AND
COOLEE.
BEVERAGES, ICES AND CANDIES. 885
of civilized man. It is not so of even the most savage nations. Let us, therefore.
f'
^-'=ity*^
'/
7
TEA LEAVES, NATURAL, SIZE.
give some of the more innocent and pleasant of the artificial beverages.
886 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
II. Tea and Coffee.
Tea, to be good, must be fresh, unadulterated, and be kept dark, and away from
the air. ,
Roasting Coffee. — Coffee when roasted, and especially when ground, loses its
aroma. If roasted too fast or too much, it is little better than so much charcoal.
Hence it should be roasted in an implement made for the purpose, or else in a closed
vessel slowly and with constant motion. If a little butter and sugar be beaten together
and added to the coffee after it becomes hot, it will assist in holding the aroma, the
essential part of coffee.
ni. How to Make Tea.
The old-fashioned rule, and a good one, is a heaping teaspoonful for each person
and an extra one for the pot. For, unlike the Chinese, we drink tea strong, and with
milk or sugar, or both. Tea should be made with soft water. Filtered rain-water is
good. One way is to scald a metal teapot, put in the tea, pour in half the required
quantity of boiling water, cover the pot with a "cosey," (a quilted cover to slip over
the pot to keep it hot), and at the end of ten or fifteen minutes add the other half of
the water. It is then ready to be poured into hot teacups.
Serve by filling the cups half full. Then add more water to the pot and fill the
cups, not too full.
Another way of making tea is to scald the pot, again fill it with boiling water,
then put in the proper quantity of tea and let it stand, covered, until the leaves settle
to the bottom of the pot, or about ten minutes. • •
IV. The Tea-Making of Various Peoples.
The Chinaman puts his tea in a cup, and pours hot water upon it, and drinks the
infusion of the leaves without addition. The Japanese triturates the leaves before
putting them into the pot. In Morocco, they put green tea, a little tansy and a great
deal of sugar in the teapot, and fill up with boiling water. In Bokhara, every man
carries a small bag of tea about with him, 'a certain quantity of which he hands over
to the booth-keeper whom he patronizes, who concocts the bevera;ge for him. The
Bokhariote tea-toper finds it as difficult to pass a tear-booth as our dram-drinker does
to go by a whiskey-shop. His breakfast beverage is Schitschaj, that is, tea flavored,
with milk, cream or mutton fat, in which bread is soaked. During the dajiiime,
sugarless green tea is drunk, with the accompaniment of cakes of flour and mutton
suet. It is considered an inexcusable breach of manners to cool the hot cup of tea
with the breath ; but the difficulty is overcome by supporting the right elbow in the
left hand and giving a circular movement to the cup. How long each kind of tea
takes to draw is calculated to the second ; and when the teapot is emptied it is passed
round amonof the company for each tea-drinker to take up as many leaves as can be
held between the thumb and finger — the leaves beiug esteemed by these people an
especial dainty.
BEVERAGES, ICES AND CANDIES. 887
V. A Cup of Coffee. •
Shesbaddin, an old Arab author, asserts that the first man who drank coffee was
a Mufti of Aden, who lived about A. D. 1500, or, as he puts it, in the ninth century
of the Hegira. Even Arab authors should always
leave room for a proviso i Perhaps some obscure
person whose name has never come down to pos-
terity, may have seen goats get "skittish" from
eating the berries, as is related of a certain Der-
vish who is also credited with thus having discov-
ered the virtue of cahui, as it was originally
called. Coffee is good enough English, though
an ex-alderman of Chicago is said to have spelled
it without using a single correct letter, "kawphy."
He did, however, get in two letters of the original
XT 11 XI. n ^ • 1 J. 1 -J. COITEE-ROASTBE.
name. He spells the name oi nis adopted city
"Shecawgow."
How to Make Coffee. — There are many ways of making it. It is brewed,
boiled, filtered and generally baked, not roasted. We have shown that it should be roasted.
Good coffee is made by taking freshly ground coffee (or if cold, warm the ground
coffee), at the rate of four heaping tablespoonfuls for each three cups, on the prin-
ciple of one for the pot. Scald the pot, put in the coffee, pour on boiling water, let
it steep five minutes, strain, and then let it just boil up. If you have a filtering
machine, patent digester, etc., use if you like.
When coffee is made it should be drunk at once. The cups should be hot, the
cream thick, well stirred, and the sugar white. If you have bought whole coffee, of
good quality; and if you have dried, roasted, and ground it yourself, there is no
reason why you, the farmer's wife, with cream at home, should not have coffee of
the best.
Artificial Cream for Coffee. — Beat well one egg, with one spoonful of sugar ;
pour a pint of scalding hot milk over this, stirring it briskly. Make it the night
previous.
VI. Chocolate.
The rule for chocolate is, two ounces of the cake, grated or thinly sliced, to
each pint of boiling milk. Put the chocolate into a pot fitted with a " muller," pour
on the boiling milk by degrees, mulling it as you proceed, over a slow heat, until it is
hot and frothy. Or it may be frothed, fairly, with any of the modern whiskers for
beating eggs.
When chocolate is used every day, a cake of chocolate is dissolved in a pint of
boiling water by mulling it, but not on the fire. When mulled, set it on the fire until
it boils up. It will keep ten days or more in a cool place. When used, mix in proper
proportion with' milk, and mull as heretofore directed.
888 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
VII. Refreshing Drinks.
Most persons drink too much, and, especially in hot weather, too much at a time.
To drink a Uttle slowly, is the way to quench thirst. Ice-water, especially, should be
drunk sparingly. A most excellent substitute for it is pounded ice, taken in small
lumps in the mouth, and allowed to dissolve upon the tongue. This will prove refresh-
ing, and much more enduring in its effects.
To Make Lemonade. — ^RoU the lemons until they become soft. Grate the
rinds, cut the lemons in slices, and squeeze them into a pitcher (a new clothes-pin will
answer for a squeezer in lieu of something better) ; pour in the required quantity of
water, and sweeten according to taste. The grated rinds, for the sake of their aroma,
should be added to it. After mixing thoroughly, set the pitcher aside for half an
hour; then strain the liquor through a jelly-strainer, and put in the ice.
Travelers may carry a box of lemon sugar, prepared from citric acid and sugar,
a Uttle of which in a glass of ice-water will furnish quite a refreshing drink, and one
that oftentimes averts sick-headache and biliousness. Citric acid is obtained from the
juice of lemons and limes. .■
Cherry Syrup. — Take six pounds of cherries, and bruise them ; pour on a pint
and a half of hot water, and boil for fifteen minutes ; strain through a flannel bag,
and add three pounds of sugar; boil half an hour or more, or until the liquid will
sink to the bottom of a cup of water (try it with a teaspoonful of the liquid) ; then
turn into jelly-cups, and cover with paper dipped in the white of an egg. A syrup
may thus be prepared of any fruit.
To Prepare tlie Drink. — Put a spoonful of the jelly in a goblet of water, and
let it stand about ten minutes; then stir it up, and fill it with pounded ice. Currants
and raspberries made into "shrub," furnish a pleasant and cooling drink when mixed
with ice-water. Pounded ice is also an agreeable addition to a saucer of strawberries,
raspberries or currants. Pound it until it is almost as fine as snow, and spi'ead it
over the berries. 'With fruit it is also an excellent substitute for cream.
VIII. Summer Drinks.
Spruce Beer. — Allow an ounce of hops and a tablespoonful of ginger to a
gallon of water. "When well boiled strain it, and put in a pint of molasses and half
an ounce or less of the essence of spruce ; when cold add a teacupful of yeast ; put it
in a clean, tight cask (a jug will do), and let it ferment for a day or two; then bottle
it for use — ^you will find it good after three days.
Beer of Sulphuric Acid. — Take of dilute sulphuric acid and concentrated in-
fusion of orange-peel, each twelve drachms ; syrup of orange-peel, five fluid ounces.
This quantity is added to two imperial gallons of water. A large wineglassful is
taken for a draught, mixed with more or less water according to taste. This beer is
entirely harmless, even if taken in considerable quantities, and is refreshing in hot
weather.
Cream of Tartar Beer. — Mix two ounces of cream of tartar, three pounds of
BEVERAGES, ICES AND CANDIES.
889
brown sugar, three quarts of yeast. To be mixed and allowed to work. This makes
ten gallons, and should be drunk as soon as worked. A strong syrup of pie-plant
stalks makes an excellent beer prepared as above, but without the tartaric acid.
Beer of Various Fruits.— Have two quarts of water boiling, split six figs,
and cut two apples into six or eight slices each ; boil the whole together twenty
minutes; pour the liquid into a basin to cool, and pass through a sieve, when it is
ready for use. The figs and apples may be drained for eating with a little boiled rice.
A delicious beverage may be made from currants, cherries or blackberries by this recipe.
Cream Beer. — Two and one-fourth pounds white sugar, two pounds of tartaric
acid, and the juice of two lemons and three pints of water. Boil together five minutes.
When nearly cold, add the whites of three eggs well beaten, half a cupful of flour
well beaten, one-half ounce of wintergreen essence. Bottle and keep in a cool place.
Use two tablespoonfuls of the syrup in a tumbler of ice-water. Add one-fourth tea-
spoonful of soda Just at the moment you wish to drink, but shake the bottle of syrup
before using. It is cool and refreshino-.
IX. Tomato Beer.
Gather the fruit, stem, wash and mash it; strain through a coarse linen bag,
and to every gallon of the juice add three pounds of good brown sugar. Let it stand
nine days, and then pour it off from the pulp which will settle in the bottom of the
jar. Bottle it closely, and the longer y.ou keep it the better it is. Take a pitcher
that will hold as much as you want to use, fill it nearly full of fresh sweetened water,
add a few drops of essence of lemon. To every gallon of sweetened water add a half-
tumblerful of beer. This is a favorite drink in the Southern States of America, and
is healthful.
Home-Made Bitters. — Take half
an ounce of the yolk of fresh eggs care-
fully separated from the whites; half an
ounce of gentian-root; one and a half
drachms of orange-peel, and one pint of
boiling water. Pour the water hot upon
the ingredients mentioned, and let them
steep in it for two hours ; then strain, and
bottle for use.
X. Ice Cream and "Water Ices.
Ice cream is a preparation of milk or
cream, with egg, sugar and flavoring, and
frozen in an ice cream freezer. Water ices
are the juices of fruits sweetened with su- ^„^ „„^.„ „„„„,^„
J , . ICE CREAM FREEZER^INTERNAI. ARRj\JfGEMENT.
gars, syrup, and then frozen like ice cream.
Ices are often made with fruit flavors chemically prepared.
They should never
890 THE HOSIE AXD FARM JIANTJAL.
be swallowed unless you know that they are made of the juices of real fruits.
The ice cream of cheap restaurants, also, is often made of the most horrible com-
pounds, including French clay and poisonous colorings. It is often, like the lemon-
ade sold by circus-men, without a particle of what should constitute it — except the
water — but much that should not be there. Ice cream and water ices are easily made
by any family having ice.
Ice Cream. — In every quart of cream mix six ounces of crushed white
sugar, and flavor with extract of vanilla, strawberry, pineapple, lemon or other flavor
you may like. Add the white of an egg, frothed. Mix the whole together by thor-
oughly beating it, and stir in an ice cream freezer, until fully congealed.
Water Ice. — ^\\'^ater ices are made by making a syrup of white sugar of the
proper sweetness. Then add the fruit-juice, the whites of eggs, dilute and freeze in
the ice cream freezer. A few trials will enable you to make it to your taste. Try
the syrup of a strength, first, sufficient to bear up a fresh egg, so that a section of the
egg the size of a ten-cent piece shows above the surface, and you will soon learn how
to vary it.
XI. Candy-Making.
Candy can, probably, be bought more cheaply than it can be made at home.
Home-made candy, however, is pure. Candy sold at, or near, the price of sugar is
not pure.
Molasses Candy. — We give two excellent recipes :
1. Take two cupfuls of molasses, one cupful of sugar, one tablespoonful of
vinegar, and a piece of butter the size of a hickory-nut. Boil briskly twenty minutes,
stirring all the time. When Qool, pull until white.
2. Take one large coffee-cupful of molasses and two very large tablespoonfuls
of sugar, and boil as rapidly as possible for twenty minutes. Try if it is brittle by
dropping into cold water. When done, rub one-half teaspoonful soda smooth, and
stir dry into the boiling candy. Mix it thoroughly and pour into buttered pans. Stir
while boiling to keep it from burning. Do not pull. If you like pop-corn balls, pop
it fresh, and stir into a part or whole of it.
Sugar Candy. — Six cupfuls sugar, one of vinegar, one of water, one spoonful
o:P butter, and one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water; boil all together
without stirring. When it becomes hard, not brittle (test by dropping a little into
cold water), flavor with lemon, wintergreen or peppermint, and turn out on buttered
plates to cool. It is nice pulled, or left on the plate and cut in squares.
White Sugar Candy. — ^Two cupfuls of white sugar, half a teaspoonful of
cream of tartar, a cupful of cold water, and teaspoonful of butter. Boil without
stirring.
Chocolate Caramels. — One cupful of molasses, one cupful of brown sugar,
one cupful of milk, one-half cupful of grated chocolate, butter the si^ie of an egg.
Boil half an hour.
BEVERAGES, ICES AND CANDIES 891
Cocoanut Candy. — Two cupfuls of white sugar, one-fourth cupful of water;
boil; put the pan in a larger pan of water, and stir until cool; when it begins to get
somewhat stiff and cool enough, stir in the grated cocoanut, and stir until cold. Cut
into cakes. The meats of any nuts, chopped or grated, may be used. The name of
the candy coming from the nuts.
XII. Candied Fruit.
After peaches, plums, citrons or quinces have been preserved, take the fruit
from the syrup and drain it in a sieve. To a pound of loaf sugar put half a teacupful
of water; when it is dissolved, set it over a moderate fire; when boiling-hot, put in
the fruit ; stir it continually until the sugar is candied about it ; then take it upon a
sieve, and dry it in a warm oven or before a fire. Repeat this two or three times, if
you wish.
CHAPTEE Vm.
PRESERVING, DRYING AND CANNING FRUIT.
OLD A^"D NEW WATS OP PRESEKVING. U. C^iXNTXG FRUIT. ^m. HOW TO PEESEEVE FE0IT.
IV. CAXXIXU WHOLE FEUIT— PEAO HES.^V. CANNING TOMATOES.- VI. CANNING VEGETABLES.
— -VII. PEESEEVING IN SUGAE VIII. MAEMALADE. IX. JAM OF APPLES AND OTHEE FEUITS.
X. JELLIES. XL SYEUPS— BLACKBEEEY, ETC. XH. DETING FEUITS. — XHI. MISCELLANEOUS
RECIPES FOE PEESEEVING. ^XIV. BRANDY PEACHES AND OTHEE BEANDIED FRUITS.
I. Old and New Ways of Preserving.
JANY persons, not much past middle age, can remember the time when preserving
meant cooking the articles in sugar, pound for pound, making a conserve rather
^^^^ than a preserve. The other plan of preserving was to dry the fruit in the
'"f sun, having first cut it into thin strips, or other sections. Since then, the
world has moved. Very little preserving, in the old-fashioned way, with sugar,
" pound for pound," is now done. The fruits are either dried, put up in self-sealing
cans or made into jelly.
Hules for Preserving. — A flannel bag is the best for straining jelly . If pos-
sible, avoid putting jelly in any stage in a metal vessel, unless silvered. For every
pint of strained juice allow a pound of sugar. Granulated sugar is the best.
In all cases it is best to boil the juice fifteen minutes before adding the sugar,
thus insuring the necessary evaporation, and avoiding the liability to burn it.
It is well also to heat the sugar before it is added, as in so doing the boiling pro-
cess will not be interrupted.
All jelly should be made over a moderate fire, and be carefully watched and
skimmed.
In making preserves, there must be no economy of time and care, and the fruit
must be fresh.
Boil without covering, and very gently.
Jellies and jams must not be covered and put away until cold.
Marmalades require constant Stirling.
In making jams, boil the fruit fifteen minutes before adding the sugar.
^lash the fruit before cooking.
Jellies. — In making jellies, from half to three-quarters of a pound of sugar is
allowed for each pint, or pound, of strained juice; currants require a pound to
a pint.
n. Canning Fruits.
Ix canning fruits only enough sugar is used to suit the taste. One quarter of a
[892]
PEESERVING, DRYING AND CANNING FRUIT.
893
pound to a pound of fruit is enough; but many use half a pound. None but the
finest white sugar is to be used.
If put in glass, the cans must be kept in a perfectly dark place, and kept as cold
as possible without freezing. The larger fruits, such as peaches, pears, etc., may be
placed in a steamer, over a kettle of boiling water to cook. Then drop the fruit into
a syrup of the right consistency, fill from there into the cans, pour over all the boiling
syrup, and seal immediately.
Fruits, and How to Can. — Fruits for canning should be of the best quality,
and not over ripe. Berries and all that kind of fruits are to be cooked in the syrup
and then ladled into cans. The cans should always sit in a hot-water bath whilst
being filled. Fit on the cover and pour the wax around the cover of the lid. The
wax must cover every crevice. Set the cans carefully away, and in three or four
days examine them to see that they are perfectly tight. Those that are not so must
be reheated and rewaxed. Examine again in a week or ten days for signs of
ferment.
If these directions are carefully observed, tin is as good as glass, provided it is
clean and bright, and again thoroughly cleaned and dried the minute the fruit is taken
out. Then, if put away in a perfectly dry place, the fruit will remain perfect for
years.
III. How to Preserve Fruit.
We give a table of the time different fruits should be boiled^ and the amount of
sugar per quart, can or jar. Thus any person by observing the foregoing i;ules may
can any of the articles named:
TIME or BOILING FBUIT.
Cherries, moderately, . . .
Raspberries, moderate!}-, 6
Blackberries, moderatelj', . . 6
Plums, moderately, ... . .10
Strawberries, moderately, ... 15
Whortleberries, moderately, ... 5
Pie plant, sliced,' 10
Small som' pears, whole, 30
Barllett pears, in halves, . . 20
Peaches, in halves, 8
Peaches, whole, ... ... 15
Pineapples, sliced, .... . 15
Siberian or crab-apples, whole, . 25
Sciir apples, quartered, .... 10
Kipe currants, .... ... 6
Wild grapes, 10
Tomatoes, 20
AMOUNT OP SUGAE TO A QUART CAN OK JAE.
5 minutes. For Cherries, ... .6 ounces.
Raspberries, . 4
BlackbeiTies 6
Field blackberries, ... . 6
Strawberries, 8
Whortleberries, . . .... 4
Quinces, .... ... 10
Small sour pears whole, . . .8
Wild grapes, 8
Peaches, . . 4
Bartlett pears, 6
Pineapples, G
Siberian or crab-apples, . . 8
Pie plant, . . 1 )
Plums, .... . . .8
Sour apples, 6
Kipe currants, ... . . .8
All stone fruits should be pitted, and pip fruits — apples, pears, etc., should be
peeled and have the core removed. Berries are cooked in their natural state.
•894 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
IV, Canning Whole Fruit— Peaches.
The directions for canning peaches will serve for all fruits that are to retain their
shape. Select fruit of firm and good quality. It is nonsense to suppose that inferior
fruit is good enough to can. Pare and place in a steamer over boiling water. Put a
5. In passing the various dishes, the servants begin at the lady upon the right of
the host, ending with the hostess; while those serving the other side of the table
begin with the gentleman seated to the right of the hostess and end with the host.
6. As soon as seated, guests remove their gloves, and lay over them their
napkins.
7. The napkin, it is almost useless to say, is never to be used as a handkerchief,
or tucked, as a child's bibb, into the collar of the coat or waist-coat.
8. Unless raw oysters are provided, soup is always the first course. If it is not
relished, a sip or two may be taken, or it may, without any breach of etiquette, be
left untasted.
9. Of soup, or of fish, which forms the second course, no one should ever take
the second plate.
10. It is not necessary to wait until all are served before beginning to eat.
11. In a formal dinner all are helped by the servants, who places the portion
before each.
12. Sauce should never be poured upon any article of food; if you wish it, the
footman or servant helps you with a sauce-ladle.
13. Never call for any particular part of a dish, but being asked, do not hesi-
tate to state your preference.
PHILOSOPHY AND PRECEPTS OF ETIQUETTE. 9^7
14. Never suffer your plate to be helped to a dish of which you do not know
the nature ; it is best to ask modestly and plainly what it is, as no one is supposed to
be a chef de cuisine, and familiar with all dishes.
IX. How to Serve a Dinner.
Every dinner may not be grand, but no matter what its cost, it can be served in
such a manner as to impress all the guests favorably. Table and room should be
handsomely decorated, and if it is possible to obtain them, flowers should adorn both
room and board. The glass should be brilliant, the silver and cutlery well polished,
and cloth and napkins fresh and white. Creme or ecru cloths and napkins, which
have began to come into favor, are used only for breakfast, luncheon or cold suppers ;
never at a formal dinner-table, with its broad glare of light.
Servants, Carving, etc. — l. Servants should be well trained, and everything
go off smoothly, and without vexation or nervousness on the part of host or hostess.
2... The fashion denominated service a la Russe, but which is really of French
origin, relieves the host of a very unpleasant duty ; all of the carving being done by
one of the servants, before the joints, roasts, etc., are brought to the table.
3. Where the menu, or bill of fare is in vogue, the guest is thus notified in ad-
vance what to expect, and those who have preferences are enabled to await their
appearance.
Order of Dishes. — 1. After soup comes the fish, then the entrees, or made
dishes; and next comes the turkey,, beef, lamb, or other ^iece cZe rmstonce. Where
raw oysters are served they are placed, opened, but in^^one side of the shell, upon the
plates before the guests enter the room, and on their removal the soup is served.
2. Game, .puddings, jellies, etc., are next in order.
3. Soups are frequently placed on the table, the tureen before the lady, or, if
there should be two kinds, one before the host and the other before the hostess, tO'
serve.
4. If there are two soups, there should be two kinds of fish. If only one of
each, the soup should be placed before the hostess ; the fish, in its turn, before the
host.
5. It is perfectly correct for the gentleman occupying the post of honor to
relieve the hostess of helping the soup.
6. Side dishes should not be put upon the table, but should be handed around.
After these have been removed and the plates changed, the fowls and meats are
brought in, in the order mentioned.-
7. Fowls are placed before the hostess, heavy meats before the host, to carve.
8. Game should be placed before the gentleman, the pudding before the lady
of the house, to serve.
9. Cheese precedes the dessert, which is passed in the following order: First,
ices; then fruits, etc. After which the servants leave the room.
908 THE HOME AND FARM JIAXUAL.
X. Family Dinners.
1. At family dinners and chance invitations, there should be no attempt at
show. The dinner is supposed to be in a great measure an impromptu affair, and
nothing is more out of tast« than to deluge a guest with apologies.
2. At affairs ot this kind, serve to the guest or guests both soup and fish, fowl
and meat.
3. In carving the fowl, give to each a piece of the white and black meats. Add
to each plate dressing, and, if so requested, a small portion of the gravy.
4. The carver should stand up when carving, and should not hack up the meat
into small fragments.
5. Vegetables, sauces, etc. should be passed quickly, yet quietly
6. If a clergyman is present he should be asked to say grace.
XL A Few Useful Hints.
1. Xever place together husband and vrife, near relatives, or members of the
same profession, as in such cases the almost invariable tendency of such neighbors is
to "talk shop."
2. Always endeavor to have a nearly equal number of each sex, as tnese are
always found to be the most pleasant parties.
3. Probably the poorest of all policies is to secure some lion or distinguished
person for your party, hoping thus to make it a brilliant affair. Either your lion is
talkative, thus boring and silencing the other guests, or he is moody, sullen and iso-
lated in his grandeur, when he is sure to cast a gloom over all the others. In either
case the dinner proves a failure.
4. Never permit wrangling, argument or heated discussion.
5. All politics and religion should be tabooed subjects, and if the guest should
so far forget himself as to give way to contention, the host or hostess can, by the
exhibition of a little tact and judgment, lead him off, by degrees, from his hobby, by
dexti'ously asking his opinion of some other matter, or by engaging him on a different
topic, thus allowing him time to cool off and see his blunder.
6. Neither host nor guest should look vexed or nervous at any blunder of the
servants. Above all things, neither can afford to rebuke or criticise them.
7. . Be punctual, not only in arriving, but also in being ready to rise with the
other guests, and do not prolong your leave-taking unreasonably.
XII. Table Usages— What to Do and What to Avoid.
1. HA^^XG removed your gloVes, if it is a formal dinner party and you have
them on, and taken your napkin, sit perfectly erect and moderately close to the table.
2. The posture should not be stiff and constrained, but easy and natural, and
should be maintained until you are served and begin eating.
3. When eating soup, hold a piece of bread in your left hand and your spoon in
your right, and sip noiselessly from the side of the spoon near the end.
PHILOSOPHY AND PRECEPTS OF ETIQUETTE. 909
4. Never put the point of the spoon into your mouth.
5. Do not cut your food into bits ready for eating, as if you had but a limited
time in which to eat, but cut off what you desire at the time and carry it to your
mouth with your fork.
6. Never use a knife, under any circumstances, to, convey food to the mouth.
This is perhaps the most quickly noticeable, as well as the most disgusting, of all table
blunders.
7. Eemember that the napkin is not intended as a handkerchief, nor the hand-
kerchief as a napkin.
8. No well-bred person will ever pick his teeth at the table ; it would be fully as
cleanly and decent to trim and clean the finger-nails
9. Neither will he use his handkerchief at the table, except in the most modest
way and without the slightest noise.
10. While it is not necessary for any one to wait until others are helped, there
should not be the slightest haste or awkwardness in eating.
11. Bread must neither be bitten nor cut; it should be broken.
12. At breakfast, or where such are provided, never drink from your saucer ;
wait until your tea, coffee, or chocolate, is cold enough to be taken from the cup.
Never sip it frorii your spoon.
13.- Some very eccentric persons raise the cup in the saucer by taking hold of
the latter, while others bend down to the table and sip from the cup without raising
it. These may be classed with those persons who use the napkin as a handker-
chief, pick their teeth at the table and eat with their knives, and who sin through
excessive ignorance of good breeding.
14. Place, at breakfast, your egg in the egg-cup small end downward, chip off
a portion of the shell and season and eat by scooping from the shell.'
15. Never hesitate about taking the last piece of anything passed to you; it is
a poor compliment to your host to suppose he has not made ample provision.
16. Only among the Hottentots and Bushmen is smacking the lips, and making
other unseemly noises while eating, considered correct.
17. Wine should be sipped slowly, not swallowed at a single draught.
18. Toasts and healths are out of fashion.
19. Hold the glass by the stem, not the bowl.
20. Port and sherry, not port wine and sherry wine, are correct terms in speak-
ing of these beverages.
21. Vegetables should be passed and taken singly — two kinds should never
appear on the waiter at once, though the plate may be helped to the two kinds which
may accompany each course.
22. Plates should be changed after each meat and pastry.
23. Pork never figures among the dinner dishes.
24. Cut the meat upon your plate as cleanly as possible from the bones, but
never hold the latter in your fingers to eat from.
510 THE HOJIE AXD FAKM MAXUAL.
25 Never use your own knife or fork to help yourself to butter, or to any dist
that may be passed or placed near you.
26. A plate should never be overloaded.
27. Never pla}- with knife, fork, spoon, glass or food, nor move about in your
.seat. I
28. Never appear to be making a selection of any foodo passed to you — take
the first that comes to hand.
29. Never talk while the mouth is full, and at no time monopolize the conversa-
tion ; remember good listeners are always appreciated — never laugh nor talk loudly.
30. Never ask to be helped a second time to any dish; if it is passed to you
unsolicited, you may help yourself.
31. Never tilt your chair, slouch around in it, nor lean your elbows on the table.
32. Never tilt plate, glass, nor dish, to drain the last morsel.
33. Do not thank, and above all things do not, as some would-be fashionables
sometimes do, apologize to the waiters for troubling them — they are paid for their
service and are merely pei'forming their duties, for which no man expects thanks.
XIII. Wines at Formal and Official Dinners.
At a formal dinner wine is deemed necessary with each course. The best plan
is to place upon the table, between each pair of guests, "caraffes," or open decanters
of white glass, filled with the mild red wine, which is always the one most used. At
each plate four or five wineglasses, of different shapes and sizes, are placed ; for each
wine has both bottles and glasses appropriate to it alone. With the raw oysters the
servant fills the glasses with chablis, or other white wine. After the soup, sherry is
served; with the fish, the white wine again; with the meats, champagne, or other
sparkling white* wine. After the meats and pastry a higher grade of claret (red wine
from Bordeaux), Burgundy, port, or a liqueur may be given.
Red Wine Served Warm. — All red wines must be served warm ; say as
warm, or a little warmer, than the room in which you sit. Cold red wine has no
flavor and is a barbarism. It is better to have it too warm than too cold, and if there
is any danger of this, place the bottles in a tub of lukewarm water. "White wine
must be served cold; sparkling wines, very cold indeed. Never put ice in a wine-
glass ; it is simply ridiculous, spoils the flavor of the wine, looks awkward, and shows
want of knowlege of the world.
These Occasions Rare. — What has been said about the variety of wines ap-
plies only to formal dinners, in houses where the host is rich, and the servants can be
reUed upon to carry out a formal dinner without making it a burlesque. Such houses
are rare in America, and the occasions rarer, except for people whose official position
calls for this class of entertainment.
Native Wines. — There are now madeinthis country many wholesome wines.
The use of thetie, by people accustomed to- drink wine, not only helps to digest the
iood, but destroys the desire for strong spiritsc? a-dailywine'-drinker seldom cares for
PHILOSOPHY AND PRECEPTS OF ETIQUETTE. 911
whiskey. A good native red-wine, which should be had at a cost of not more than
twenty to thirty-five cents per quart, is thought by many to be an acquisition to the
family dinner table, both in helping digestion and in promoting temperance among
the growfing members of the family, by destroying the taste for strong drink.
XIV. Sensible Hints to Dinner -Givers.
If you ask friends to dine, do not try to provide anything veiy different from
your own daily meal. If you do, mistakes will be made and the dinner be stiff.
Have it of good material and well cooked, in Ways well understood by you and your
servant.
1. Never rnix the courses. Let your soup be taken away before anything else
is brought. If you have fish, the plates, knives and forks must be changed before
the meats.
2. Never put a number of articles of food in the same plate. One vegetable,
■or, at the most, two, may be served.
3. Never put a number of discordant messes before a guest. A heaped-up
plate and half a dozen little plates or saucers full of varied viands placed before one
at the same time are nauseating and vulgar
4. Let your dinner be simple unless your servants are trained to serve elaborate
courses, and can do so without a fault.
5. A good soup, a well-cooked and well served joint of meat, a fowl, and some
fruit or cheese, with a bottle of good, sound, native red wine is far better than an
attempt at a dinner in many courses, unless the latter is served and managed by an
expert.
6. Never hire waiters for a dinner. Never borrow finery for your table. Both
are vulgar shows. Serve what you have as well as you can.
7. Try to have your table service good every day. It costs nothing but a little
time and that is well spent. Then, when you invite a friend, it will be much easier
to have a dinner successful. You cannot dine every day in your shirt-sleeves, eat
with your knife, and have your dinner served as if to fill a swill-barrel, and then, on
occasions, be fine. Something will betray the daily custom.
XV. After Dinner.
1. In English society, when the dinner is over, it is usual, at a signal from the
hostess, for the ladies to rise and retire to the drawing-room, while the gentlemen
remain to indulge in wine, politics, etc.
2. This habit, which has the advantage of giving to the sexes half an hour's
time between a long and heavy dinner and the evening's entertainment, has never
become popular in America, where the custom is for all to rise together, and adjourn
to the drawing-room.
3. A cup of tea or coffee is handed around, after which the conversation becomes
912 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
general until the time for leave-taking. Music is appropriate and pleasant during
this time.
4. Each guest should remain two or three hours after dinner.
5. Within a week after attending a party of this kind, each guest should make a
call upon his hostess; to delay it beyond two weeks is inexcusable.
XVI. Breakfast and Supper.
Customs of Different Countries. — Breakfa-st is not so often made a meal of
ceremony and invitation in America as in England ; owing to the later hours which
prevail in the latter country. On the Continent, especially in France and the southern
countries of Europe, "breakfast" is a substantial meal of meat, wine, etc., taken at
from eleven to twelve.
Do not therefore suppose the people are late risers; the custom is to take simply
a cup of coffee and a bit of bread on rising, and to breakfast four or five hours
afterwards. Many persons in the large cities, such as the brokers and others, often
finish the usual day's work in this time.
Dinner, which differs in French households from breakfast more in having soup
than in any other particular, is generally eaten at six, and is over in time to go to the
theatre at eight. Parties begin in Paris at about midnight, or after the opera, and
the doors of many of the large public balls open at that witching hour.
Many who rise early, take a nap after the breakfast, and, in Spain, this is done
by all classes ; shops are closed and the streets deserted for a couple of hours for the
" siesta " — but then the Spaniard begins his work before day.
In England, family breakfasts are generally of cold meats, and the dinner comes
at eight in the evening, the ladies having a cup of tea in the afternoon, at about five
o'clock.
In the cold countries of the North, especially among the Scandinavians, more
meals are taken — often as many as five, at which meat is served — and these do not
correspond to our meals or those of Southern Europeans, enough even to bear the
same names.
Indeed, the hours for eating must be regulated by the hours of employment. If
one is in the whirl of fashionable life of a great city, and nightly out until four or
five o'clock in the morning, the heavy meal of the day must come late, and a light
supper at midnight becomes a necessity. If you are a hard-working farmer, living in
the country and going to bed between nine and ten, the meal hours must correspond.
We often read of great changes in the dinner hour; that Henry the Eighth
" dined " at ten in the morning. So he did. But until very modern times the heavy
meal at close of day was called supper; they eat it in England to-day at nearly the
s.ime hour, and call it dinner. " What's in a name? "
Supper Parties. — Suppers are now given at balls and parties, after the opera,
etc., and it is rare to invite a guest to supper alone. An invitation to a dancing or
card party is generally understood to include a supper of some kind, although it is
PHILOSOPHY AM) PRECEPTS OP ETIQUETTE. 913
never mentioned. Such terms as "an oyster supper," "a champagne supper," etc.,
are never heard among decent peojole. Oysters and champagne may be given, but
attention is not called to the fact any more than one would ask a guest to "a meat
and claret dinner" when these were to be given. In fact, the terms mentioned should
be restricted to the vulgar haunters of bars and billiard rooms.
Common Sense Hours. — Meals should be timed by common sense. It is
probably more healthful to take a rather light breakfast, which, in a malarious country,
should always include coffee. At noon a more substantial meal is in order, but as, in
this country, several hours of hard work are to follow, it should not be too heavy,
and a quarter or half an hour's rest after it is time well spent.
The dyspepsia' so common in this country comes from taking, as a habit, more
food than is necessary, and then working with head or body immediately afterwards.
Digestion requires repose and most people eat far more than nature calls for.
The best time for a heavy dinner is after the hard work of the day is over and a
couple or more of hours can be given to comfortable rest, reading, conversation or
light amusement. Eat slowly, not too much at any one meal, take small pieces which
can be easily masticated, and do not go directly from the table to violent exercise or
severe brain work. Make your dinner (or evening meal, by whatever name you
choose to call it,) a pleasant, social affair, which tempts you to linger over it; not a
place to bolt, in haste, a certain amount of unmasticated food, and then fly from. Cul-
tivate the beauties and the social aspects of the meal daily, and it will prove not only
a delight, but a source of health as well as of civilization. Then your dinner parties
to strangers will need only a little more care than the daily event, not a contrast which
upsets the household.
XVII. Luncheon— Invitations and. Service.
1. This is a strictly orthodox affair, and to provide a suitable luncheon is almost
as great a test of one's catering powers as to triumph in a dinner. It is true that it
is usually considered only a light repast, made up of elegant little trifles, but amongst
fashionable iDeople, the table is often dressed and garlanded as if for a ceremonious
dinner, and a great variety of dishes are served.
To this affair, invitations are sent out, which may be autographic, or the visiting
card, with date and hour added, will answer, thus:
Mrs. John Smythe.
Luncheon at 12}i "Wednesday, Oct. 9th, '83.
. How to Serve. — Some have the luncheon brought to the table in courses, but
this adds a stiffness and formality not to be desired. The most pleasant way is to
have the dishes upon the table, and to dispense with the aid of servants.
The luncheon at a bridal party is usually more formal ; on such occasions it is
customary to darken the room and light the gas or wax candles, by whose aid the
feast is eaten.
58
914 THE HOME AXD FAKJI MAJSUAL.
Boquets presented to each guest with then* napkin, and vases containing rich but
not gaudy flowers are a great help to this meal.
The dress for this occasion is, of course, a street costume, but this should be fresh
and elegant. The observances at luncheon are not rigidly formal, and, in fact, when
well managed, this is one of the most delightfully pleasant and informal of all social
meetings.
XVIII. Etiquette of Dress and Conversation.
1. Chesterfield, accounting for the benefits that accrue from a polite demeanor
rightly said, that but few possessed or were judges of science, art and grand achieve-
ments, but that all understand and appreciate grace, civility and politeness.
2. To be ignorant of the customs and usages of society will cause one to become
constrained and bashful, and blunders and awkwardness are the result.
3. All this may easily be avoided by the study and acquirement of the few
rules necessary to our guidance through all the shoals, rocks and quicksands of igno-
rance, awkwardness and ill-breeding. This being the case, is it not worth our while
to make ourselves familiar with the canons of polite society, since it is with that class,
if any, that we should desire to mingle.
XIX. The Golden Rule.
True politeness is merely the practical observance, in small matters, of the
"golden rule:" Not to offend the tastes of another; not to annoy him ; not to place
self before our neighbor, are the bases of all etiquette.
2. State your opinions plainly and mildly. Never talk loudly, nor make broad
sweeping assertions.
3. Never offer to back up an opinion with a bet. Of course no gentleman will
be guilty of the rudeness of an oath.
4. Always show a deference to age.
5. Never contradict any one flatly ; always beg leave, smihngly, not sarcastically,
to differ with them.
6. Never anticipate a slight, nor be ever ready to take one.
7. Above all, never give way to abusive argument or a quarrel.
8. Loud laughter and slang phrases are the wit and humor of the jockey and
the clown. No lady or gentleman can afford to use them.
XX. Things to Avoid.
1. The most despicable figure in society is that of the coarse, purse-proud man
or woman, who depends solely upon money for standing and consideration. Next to
these, if not in the same rank, is the vulgar creature who knows everything.
2. Never volunteer an opinion, nor try to monopolize the conversation.
3. It is not necessary to be foppish in order to be neat. The fop is as far at
one extreme as the slouch is at the other.
PHILOSOPHY AND PRECEPTS OF ETIQUETTE. 915
4. Dress quietly, but let the material be rich ; never dress loudly, and avoid
much jewelry.
5. Never wear plated ornaments nor imitation gems.
6. Never whisper in company, nor attempt to monopolize the attention of a
person.
7. Abstruse subjects, professional topics, religion and politics should be avoided.
"The shop," as the English designate business affairs, should never enter into social
<;onversation.
8. Indulge but seldom in quotation; never in inuendo, insinuation or punning.
9. Avoid all satire and sneering — the devil is painted always with a sneer upon
his lips.
10. Never flatter, nor volunteer advice.
11. Never talk scandal.
12. Never laugh at your own jokes.
13. Never correct an error, misquotation nor other mistake of any one.
14. Never interrupt a conversation without good cause, and always apologize for
so doing.
15. To inveigh against religion, or the nationality or sentiments of any one, is
in the very worst of taste.
16. Sit or stand at your ease; avoid lolling, hitching about, playing with your
«hain or other part of your clothing.
17. Be cool, quiet and collected; avoid haste and worry.
18. The drawing-room comedian is the silliest of the. silly. Buffoonery should
be left to professional clowns.
19. Never exaggerate nor use highly-colored adjectives.
20. Never attempt to " show off."
21. Never bring in such sentences as " When I was in Rome," or " One day in
Paris," etc. '
22. Never make yourself the hero of the adventures you relate. It is homely but
wise advice never to " blow your own bugle."
23. If your opinion is asked.on some subject with which you are familiar, give it
modestly, not as though it were infallible.
24. The practical joke is both low and cruel; no gentleman or lady would think
of indulging in one.
25. Never use any foreign language, not understood by the company, unless
there should be some one of that nation present who does not understand English.
26. Never, as it is termed, " take the word out of any one's mouth." Be
patient, and in due time, no doubt, he who is speaking will find the word or phrase
for which he is seeking.
27. Never utter a remark that you think may offend any other of the company.
28. Avoid all profanity and coarse language.
29. Avoid appealing to others to prove your assertions.
916 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
XXI. Calls.
1. Modern fashion declares a call made between noon and five o'clock, a morn-
ing call, though, in some cities, calls are still made as early as eleven o'clock.
2. In extreme cases, however, strict formality is not adhered to.
3. A formal call should not exceed fifteen or twenty minutes. These are always
morning calls.
4. Evening calls are neither so short nor so formal.
5. A gentleman is expected to make a call: 1st. The day after escorting a lady
to an entertainment — the call being to inquire after her health. 2d. When congratula-
tions and condolences should be tendered, as after a marriage or a death. 3d. When
he desires acknowledging hospitalities received elsewhere. 4th. When he desires to
hand letters of introduction he may have received. 5th. Within a week after receiving
an invitation to a house, even though it was not accepted. 6th. When a friend has
returned from a long absence. 7th. When he desires to acknowledge any courtesy.
XXII. General Etiquette of Calls,
1. The gentleman retains his hat and gloves in his hand, during his call, which
must be brief.
2. A friend should never be introduced without previous permission.
3. Ladies making a morning call, generally keep on their gloves, and also
retain their parasols.
4. When callers retire, the hostess rings for a servant to see that they are
attended to the door.
5. A hostess may retain any fancy work she may be engaged upon, but of
course anything heavy is out of the question.
6. The callers should always be provided with cards, which should be sent up
to insure accuracy in the name, and also to leave in case the lady of the house should
not be at home.
7. When retiring after a call, do so in a gentle, graceful manner, not abruptly
upon the entrance of other callers.
XXIII. Evening Calls.
1. An evening call should under no circumstances be made later than nine
o'clock, and should not, under ordinary circumstances, exceed an hour..
2. If a gentleman's first call, he will retain hat and gloves. Intimate friends
only should exceed an hours' stay.
3. On the second call, guests lay aside their hats and gloves on the invitation of
the hostess; when, if solicited, they may spend the evening.
4. Calls should be returned within a week, especially if made by a stranger.
5. Those who settle in a new locality expect the first calls, which must be made
as soon as their house is supposed to be in order.
PHILOSOPHY AND PRECEPTS OF ETIQUETTE. 917
6. On mere ceremonial calls, the lady usually leaves her own and husband's
cards.
7. "Not at home" is the usual excuse alleged when it is inconvenient to receive
a call.
8. A guest admitted must be seen, no matter how inconvenient.
9. An informal caller should not be detained while the hostess dons an elaborate
toilet; they should be received in a morning dress.
10. No call should be so made as to come in conflict with any meal-hour of the
person called on.
11. All customs bow not only to "great kings." but also to the visitor from a
distance, who may not have the time to consult all of the ceremonies in calls, etc.
12. If any acquaintance has a visiting friend, you should call, and it is the duty
of the acquaintance and friend to return the call.
13. Only during long protracted illness, may lady friends visit a gentleman.
14. On recovering from a spell of sickness, all calls that have been made should
be returned. Leaving your card will answer.
15. After attending any entertainment at a house, leave your card there within
a week. If unable to attend, call earlier to express regrets.
16. Immediately on hearing of a bereavement, leave your card, and call within
a week.
17. A gentleman is received, by the hostess slightly rising and bowing; a lady,
by her rising and advancing towards her.
18. When a lady retires, if there be no other guests, the hostess should attend
her to the door.
19. If others are present, she may only be able to rise and bid her adieu.
20. A gentleman receives his friend by meeting him at the door, cordially
shaking his hand, and assisting him with his overcoat, hat, etc.
21 . During visits, strictly of ceremony, the gloves are not removed.
22. Be easy and natural while calling. Do not fidget, nor hitch about on your
chair.
23. While waiting for the hostess, never try the piano, examine the cards, pic-
tui-es, etc. Such curiosity is contemptible.
24. In leaving, make no excuse, such as: "Well, I must go." "What a time
I've stayed," etc. Merely rise gracefully, say "good-bye," "good evening," or
" good day," and quietly withdraw.
XXIV. Visiting Cards.
1. The styles in these are legion. They should bear no titles except such as
are intended to make them descriptive. "Miss," "Mrs.," "The Misses," are of
course permissible; but "Prof.," "Hon.," "Esq.," are tabooed. It is even doubt-
ful if a physician should use the " Dr.," or the " M. D.," on a visiting card bearing
his name and initials.
918 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
2. Army and naval officers in service are allowed their titles on their cards, as
Capt., etc.; though it is better to have only the name and the initials, "U. S. A.,"
or "U. S. N.," below the name.
3. The eldest girl of a family is " Miss Jones," "Miss Brown," or whatever
the name may be ; the others are called by their Christian names, with this title pre-
fixed, as " Miss Mary," " Miss Bella," etc.
4. It is correct, when several sisters use a single card, to use " The Misses Hol-
comb," " The Misses Dye," etc.
XXV. New Year's Calls.
1. Are generally made by two, or even more gentlemen together, and it is the
occasion for renewing their acquaintance with lady friends.
2. Cards with emblematic designs, and "Happy New Year," etc., are left.
3. These calls should be very short.
4. Refreshments are almost invariably offered, but may be accepted or not.
5. Of course no gentleman will suffer himself to become intoxicated upon such
an occasion.
6. Overcoats, gloves and hats should be removed in the hall, where a servant
should be in waiting to assist the caller.
7. It is usual in city circles to send the card from the hall to the drawing-room,
and to follow it after removing wraps.
8. Many ladies receive with friends either at their own homes or at those of
their friends. •
9 AYhen receiving away from home, notification should be given.
10. Cards must be left with every lady receiving.
11. A gentleman introduced on this occasion is hot privileged to call again with-
out special invitation.
12. A New Year's call may be made as early as ten a. m., but never later than
nine p. M.
13. The two or three days succeeding the New Year, ladies devote to calling
among themselves, and hence they are often called "ladies' days."
14. For receiving calls, halls and rooms should be warm, and the reception
room decorated. These rooms are usually darkened, and the gas lit.
CHAPTER II.
ETIQUETTE OF THE STREET, BALL. CHURCH, ETC.
STREET DEPOETMENT. II. GENBEAX, RULES OF STREET DEPORTMENT. III. SPECIAL RULES OF
STREET DEPOETMBSTT. IV. 'ETIQUETTE OF INTRODUCTIONS. V. SALUTATIONS. VI. RIDING
AND DRIVING. XU. BALL AND PARTY ETIQUETTE. VIII. THE SUPPER, DRESSING ROOMS, ETC.
IX. SOME GENERAL EULES OP PARTY ETIQUETTE. X. EVENING PARTIES— THE CONVERSAZIONE-
XI. CONCERTS, THEATRICALS, ETC. XII. PARLOR LECTURES. XIII. CHURCH ETIQUETTE.
XIV. ETIQUETTE OF VISITS. XV. EULES FOR GENERAL GUIDANCE - — XVL ETIQUETTE OF THE
rUNEEAL. -XVII. ETIQUETTE OF THE CHRISTENING— GOD-FATHER AND GODMOTHER— PEES-
ENTS, ETC.
I. Street Deportment.
^HE first recognition should come from the lady.
2. Always raise the hat with the hand farthest from the person saluted.
3. Merely touch or but slightly raise the hat to a gentleman friend, unless
of high rank, advanced years, a clergyman, a person in some manner distin-
guished, or accompanied by a lady.
4. A gentleman should never stop a lady in the street, though a lady may ven-
ture to stop a gentleman.
5. A gentleman should always carry a lady's packages and bundles, even the
smallest, but should never volunteer to carry her parasol
6. He should never smoke while escorting a lady or speaking to one.
7. Gentlemen friends meeting should slightly raise the hat with the left hand,
while the right hand is extended and shaken.
8. In shaking hands it is boorish to hold the hand for any length-of time.
9. To o-ive a violent jerk to the arm or tti violently wring another's hand is
very rude.
10. Only a dude or simpleton extends two fingers to be shaken.
11. Always give to those feebler, or more aged than yourself, or those of
exalted position, the inner side of the walk.
12. Always accommodate your gait to that of a lady or an aged or infirm
person.
13. Do not rush violently or swing the arms and body ungracefully in walking.
II. General Rules of Street Deportment.
1. A LADY is not expected to recognize a friend across a street.
2. Neither ladies nor gentlemen should stare about them or indulge in loud talk
or laughter on the street or in a public conveyance.
3. Never call to a person across a street.
r9i9]
920 THE HOME AXD FAEM MAXIAL.
4. Never turn and look after a person. If you must see them again, it is better
to turn back and go in the direction they are going.
5. No lady ever was, nor ever could be, guilty of the small and contemptible
meanness of sneering at the dress of another, or of turning around to gaze super-
ciliously at it, nor make uncomplimentary remarks about it. Only a fishwoman or a
parvenue can condescend to such a thing.
6. Do not eat in the street; it can never be done gracefully.
7. Never nod to a person in a store; if you wish to speak to them, go into the
store.
8. When accosted by a lady in the street, never show signs of impatience ; let
her intimate the termination of the interview by a slight bow.
9. Never attempt to force your way with a lady through a crowd. If politely
requested, the throng will always make way.
10. Always introduce any friend who may be with you when stopped on the
street. If spoken to and stopped by a lady, all of the party of gentlemen with whom
you are walking should pause and raise their hats, and the one with whom you are
side by side should be introduced.
11. Gentlemen should always uncover to ladies when spoken to on the street.
III. Special Rules of Street Deportment,
1. Never call a friend out from a party he may be with for a long talk. If
necessary to talk with him, apologize to the others, and make your interview brief.
2. Never discuss private or personal matters in a crowd or on the sti-eet.
3. Any gentleman may offer a lady his umbrella in a storm, but if a stranger
it should be pleasantly yet firmly declined. If an acquaintance, it may be accepted,
but should be promptly returned.
4. In a 'bus or street car, a lady's fare should be passed. Most gentlemen will
give their seats to ladies unable to obtain one, but no lady will accept without thank-
ing the donor, who should bow in return. ,
5. Any stranger may assist a lady, an old person, or an invalid, who is in
difficulties. This assistance is repaid with thanks, and is no basis for acquaintance.
6. If the way is clear, allow the lady to precede you; if any difficulty or dan-
ger is in the way, the gentleman should take the lead.
7. No gentleman after rendering assistance to a strange lady, will attempt to
force his acquaintance upon her.
IV. Etiquette of Introduction.
1. Never introduce persons unless there is a mutual desire on their part for an
acquaintance.
2. Never presume to advise an introduction by saying " you ought to know him
or her," "I know you'd like each other," etc. This is silly and presumptuous.
3. Gentlemen are always introduced to ladies, and inferiors to superiors
ETIQUETTE OF THE STREET, BALL, CHURCH, ETC. 921
4. If gentlemen or ladies are of equal rank, introduce the younger to the older.
5. " Mr. Smith, permit me to introduce to you my friend, Mr. Jones;" " Mr.
Brown, allow me to present to you Mr. Johnson," are simple but sufficient formula
for the introduction. After this formula is gone through with, the names are pro-
nounced in a lower tone in a reversed order.
6. When introducing anyone to a lady, your bow should show more aeference
than in presenting a friend to a gentleman.
7. In introducing a number, as at a reception, it is only necessary to call the
most honored name first, and join the others together as: " Allow me to present
Mr. Smith, Mr. Jones, Mr. Brown, Mr. Johnson," at the same time indicating each
with a slight bow. Pronounce names clearly to avoid mistakes.
8. Every introduction does not entitle one to a continuance of the acquaintance
so formed. If either party desires, the acquaintance may be dropped.
9. Where the French fashion prevails, you are at liberty to address, without an
introduction, any person you may meet socially at the house of an acquaintance.
Being there is a sufficient guarantee of the respectability of each.
10. The slightest intimation from a lady that an introduction is not desirable,
should suffice, as an explanation might prove embarrassing.
11. Ladies are given the privilege of dropping ball acquaintances, or those
formed on any festive occasion.
12. It is permissible, in introducing a celebrity, to mention his distinction, as
"Mv. Lowery, the artist."
13. You may drop acquaintances made in calls, unless the person should be a
visitor to your friend from some other place, in which case he or she must be treated
courteously during the stay.
14. A guest should be introduced to all callers.
15. A person should always be introduced by title as "Dr. Blank.','
16. Two friends with different parties may stop for a short time and converse
without introducing the other members of the company. Should any one be intro-
duced, under such circumstances, recognition is not afterward obligatory.
17. If in the house of an acquaintance you are introduced to a person with
whom you are at enmity, acknowledge the presentation courteously, but with reserve,
as though an utter stranger.
18. Promiscuous introductions in large assemblies are not correct. Guests may
introduce each other in large parties ; in small ones it is the privilege of the host and
hostess.
19. A married lady may shake hands with a gentleman when introduced, but a
single lady should not.
20. No lady should dance with a gentleman to whom she has not been intro-
duced.
21. Never introduce disagreeable or disreputable persons to any one.
22. Always raise vour hat when introduced on the street.
i)2i THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
23. You are entitled to call upon the President of the United States or the
Grovernor of your own State at any public reception. In this ease hand your card to
the master of ceremonies. For a private interview it would be better to obtain the
aid of some official, as Representative or Senator.
24. In calling upon the Governor of any State but your own, it would be best
to carry letters from some well-known pei'son.
25. In order to be presented to the Queen, in England, or at the court of other
European sovereigns, it would be necessary to obtain the aid and advice of the resi-
dent Minister from the United States, at that court, who will give proper credentials
and also infoxm you of the ceremonies and requirements necessary.
V. Salutation.
1. Gentlemen friends, meeting, bow and shake hands. A married lady may
shake hands with a gentleman, or an old gentleman with a young lady.
2. In shaking hands do not embarrass yourself and others by waiting to draw
off your glove ; merely ask to be excused for not removing it. Never receive your
friends in your own house with your gloves on.
3. If a lady gives no sign of recognition, a gentleman. must pass without salu-
tation.
4. Return the bow of any respectable person, male or female, whether ac-
ouainted or not, unless you know it to be some one seeking to force an acquaintance.
5. Ladies rarely find, it necessary to stop a gentleman on the street; gentlemen
never presume to stop a lady thus.
6. A young unmanned lady can have no pretext f6r speaking to any gentleman
on the street, unless it be a near relative. A bow is sufficient for other acquaintances.
7. In making a bow, or lifting the hat, there should be an easy, graceful mo-
tion ; only the dude, or the cad, affects angularity, and jerks off the hat with a rapid
downward motion, similar to that of an organ-grinder's monkey.
8. A lady is required, in her own house, to extend her right hand to all guests.
9. On horseback, the lady bows but slightly to friends; the gentleman, holding
reins and whip in the left hand, must raise his hat to ladies, and also, slightly, to
gentlemen friends.
10. The gentleman jDrecedes the lady going up stairs; the lady descends first.
11. In entering a room, a gentleman must carry his gloves, hat, etc., in his left
hand, that his right may be free to offer to his friends.
12. Boisterous merriment, coarse conversation , loud talk and laughter, argu-
ment, anger and eccentricity, should be left to grooms and stable boys.
VI. Biding and Driving.
In riding, we will suppose both lady and cavalier to be familiar with the exercise.
1. In this case, having an appointment to ride with a lady, the first cai'e of the
gentleman must be to see her safely mounted. It is usual to have the lady's horse
sent by a groom some minutes before the appearance of the escort.
ETIQUETTE OF THE STREET, BALL, CHURCH, ETC. 923'
2. In mounting, the groom should stand at the head of the lady's horse; the
escort at his shoulder, while we will suppose the lady at the left side of the animal,
with her skirt held by her left hand, her right holding to the pommel of the saddle.
3. The escort stoops .and holds out his left hand, in which the lad}^ places her
foot, and springs and is lifted to the saddle.
4. When the foot has been placed in the stirrup, her robe properly arranged and
her seat firmly assured, the gentleman must lose no time in mounting, and then they
start.
5. You ride on the lady's right side, never touching her rein, unless requested
to curb her horse.
6. Accommodate the gait of your horse to that of hers. Be vigilant that no
accident occurs.
7. In dismounting, the lady sees that her skirts are not held by the pommel of
her saddle, and giving her left hand to the. gentleman (who takes it in his right),
places her foot in his left hand, and is gently assisted to the ground.
8. Jn the carriage, those most honored ride with their faces toward the horses;
seats with back to the horses are for the less distinguished, the younger and servants.
9. Ladies enter first, but gentlemen leave the vehicle first.
10. In assisting ladies to enter or dismount, be careful that their dresses do not
become soiled by the wheels, steps, etc. The place of the footman is to open and
close doors, but not to assist the ladies.
11. Always drive close to the sidewalk, and then " cut " or turn the front wheels,
so that there may be a larger space for ingress and egress.
12. In America, the driver sits to the right, and vehicles also turn to this direc-
tion to avoid others.
13. It is not only silly, but a breach of etiquette for a lady, when frightened, to
grasp the arm of a gentleman driving.
VII. Ball and Party Etiquette.
1. For a ball or a ceremonious party, cards should be issued from ten days to
three weeks in advance. If it is to be a large or brilliant affair, three weeks would
be best.
2. Do not overcrowd your rooms, especially at a ball, and have as few " wall-
flowers," or guests who do not dance, as possible.
3. The ball-room should be well lighted, but not too warm. The floor should
be well waxed, or, when it is an impromptu affair, the carpets should be smoothly
covered with sail-cloth or canvas.
4. The rooms should be tastefully ornamented. Flowers, foliage, plants, etc.,
being always in order. The music should be slightly elevated, and, if possible, hand-
somely screened off from the body of the room.
5. For a ball of any pretensions, there should- be a programme of dances, so
that the ladies may keep a list of their engagements.
924 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
6. The music, even in tiie most hastily gotten-up affairs, should never consist
of the piano alone. A violin, cornet, or other instrument, at least, should be added.
7. In number, there should be at least eighteen dances, and never more than
twenty-four.
8. There should always be a supper, or refreshments of some kind.
9. The pleasures of the evening usually begin with a lively march ; then a
quadrille, waltz, etc.
VIII. The Supper, Dressing-Rooms, etc.
1. The supper is usually eaten standing, and ices are generally to be had, even
after the supper is over.
2. Good beef tea, made strong, is admirable at balls, and should always be given
in cold weather.
3. The meats, fowls, etc., are ready carved. Delicious salads should always be
provided, and strong coffee. Wine may be given.
4. A dressing-room for ladies, and one for gentlemen, should be provided with
all the necessaries for making the toilet.
5. When guests arrive, they should be met near the door of the reception room
by the hostess, who should receive them cordially.
6. Other members of the family should busy themselves in introducing the
guests, finding partners for those unprovided, and in other ways seeking to make the
affair enjoyable to all.
7. A gentleman cannot refuse an introduction to a lady at a ball.
IX. General Rules of Party Etiquette.
J.. If unacquainted with a dance, a gentleman should never attempt it, unless
invited by a lady to do so, and even then should acknowledge his ignorance.
2. The will of the gentleman must be completely subordinated to that of his
partner, should she for any cause decline a dance, or having begun it, desire to retire,
he must cheerfully acquiesce.
3. In conducting a lady to her place in a set, or to her seat after a dance, offer
the arm respectfully.
4. A lady has the right to decline introductions at public balls. An introduc-
tion, even at a private ball, does not necessitate after-recognition.
5. Any excuse offered by a lady is valid.
6. A gentleman who has been declined as a partner should not ask any lady in
hearing to dance in that set, but may go to another part of the room and do so. The
reasons for this are obvious.
7. If a lady refuse a dance, for which she has no prior engagement, and no
good excuse, a gentleman should not ask her again to honor him.
8. If a lady pleads only that she doesn't like the particular dance about to
begin, the next may be asked for. Should she plead excessive fatigue, she should
not dance again, as her inconsistency would have the appearance of falsehood.
ETIQUETTE OF THE STREET, BALL, CHURCH, ETC. 925
9. Never attempt " fancy " steps in dancing, and do not dance too well — that
is, with the air of a dancing master. Walk gracefully through quadrilles, and in
waltzing, do so with a quiet grace unmarked by effort.
10. The formula: " May I have the pleasure?," " Allow me the pleasure," or,
" Will you honor me? " is all that is necessary in asking for a dance.
11. It is the duty of the escort to attend the lady at the end of each dance,
to hold her gloves, fan, boquet, etc., to see that she does not enter or cross the ball-
room alone, and to provide her with partners.
12. Unmarried ladies should restrict themselves to two dances with any gentle-
man; more are apt to cause remark.
13. Never occupy the seat next to a lady you do not know ; if you cannot obtain
an introduction, do not embarrass her by taking that seat.
14. If a lady has no escort, and the hostess has made no arrangement for one
to see her to supper, the gentleman who danced with her immediately preceding
supper, will escort her to that refreshment. In entering the supper-room, do so
slowly and gracefully ; avoid all appearance of haste. Ladies should not remain
more than ten or fifteen minutes at the table.
15. The escort, if invited to enter the lady's house, on the return from the ball,
should, under ordinary circumstances, politely decline, but should call the next day.
X. BveniDg Parties— The Conversazione.
Or these social gatherings, conversaziones are of the most pleasant. They are
intellectual gatherings, where amusement and instruction go hand in hand. The con-
versazione is usually given in honor of some distinguished guest, who is either a
literary man, a warrior, explorer, or other celebrated personage. All the guests
should be introduced, and the conversation should be general, and may be interspersed
with music, dancing, etc. On the Continent of Europe, a recital of some interesting
incident, the reading of a poem or essay, or the singing or execution of some brilliant
piece of music, often forms part of the programme. The guests should be carefully
selected for some distinction, as above suggested; in fact, the endeavor usually is to
make them typical gatherings, in which there shall be. a mutual interchange of ideas.
XI Concerts, Theatricals, etc.
A VERY pleasant way of passing the long winter evenings is the organization of
neighborhood talent into amateur theatrical and concert companies. In these com-
binations, it is best to appoint a permanent stage manager, from whose casts or distri-
bution of parts there shall be no appeal nor sulking.
1. Where there is no permanent manager, that duty usually falls upon the host
or hostess of the house in which the party may be assembled.
2. Farces, one-act, or at most, two-act comedies and burlesques are the best
selections, as they require little stage room, and not over one change of scene or
costume.
926 THE HOJIE AJS^D FARM MANUAL.
3. The amateur company may be merely a neighborhood affair, or it may give
repregentations in neighboring towns. It is not only a very pleasant, but a highly
useful amusement, leading to a study and appreciation of the highest grade of literary
productions, and educating a taste for the best and most classical works.
4. Light suppers should be provided at the places of meeting, and between the
acts there may be intermissions for promenading, handing around cakes, ices, etc.
5. Loud bravoes, clapping the hands boisterously, and other rude methods of
applause, are to be avoided.
6. A code of by-laws and a schedule of fines for non-attendance, failure to
rehearse or to know parts, etc., should be adopted.
XII. Parlor Lectures.
The etiquette of tea parties, lawn parties, picnics, and out-of-door parties gen-
erally, is everywhere well known, but the parlor lecture is just coming into vogue in
pohte society, and certainly no better mode of spending an evening to intellectual
advantage was ever devised.
1. Two plans obtain: First, the members of a community, or those of them,
at least, who compose the more intellectual class, organize a society, any of the mem-
bers of which are supposed to be in readiness to respond to an invitation to lecture
before the society, upon some subject to be chosen by the lecturer
2. The society meets at the residence of one of its members every week, or if
deemed better, every two weeks, and as there is a lecture at every meeting, there is
room for considerable interchange of ideas, and every member in turn gives the
results of his best thought and study.
3. A lady member may contribute a song, the rendition of a brilliant piece of
music, or a drawing, painting or piece of art needlework for admiration and criti-
cism. Recitations, equally with original efforts, are acceptable.
4. The second method is to invite from neighboring towns or cities lecturers
eminent in some special line of research, and assemble the society in the parlor of
one of its number to give him audience. The expense is trifling, when divided among
a number, and the instruction and entertainment is beyond computation in dollars and
cents.
5. At these entertainments it is usual to provide a table and a lamp with an
argand shade for the lecturer, who sits at the tabl^ and reads from his notes, or
delivers his lecture in a colloquial tone.
6. The lecturer, if employed especially for the occasion, should be treated just
as any other guest ; he has contributed his time and talent in exchange for your money,
and occupies no menial position.
7. The lecture should begin at eight and not occupy more than two hours in its
deliveiy. ]\Iusic is not necessary at these entertainments.
8. The company should show the greatest respect, even should the subject
prove uninteresting either in selection or delivery.
ETIQUETTE OF THE STREET, BALL, CHUHCH, ETC. 927
9. Whispei'ing and all remarks will cease from the beginning of the lecture.
At its close any questions pertaining to its subject may be propounded to the lecturer.
No chairman or other presiding officer is necessary at these lectures.
XIII. Church Etiquette.
Going to church is so general an English and American custom, that almost
every one attends some place of worship. It is a matter of etiquette:
1. To arrive in time, so that the rest of the congregation will not be disturbed
by a late entrance.
2. Never intrude into a pew without an invitation. To do so is a trespass upon
private property.
3. On entering a strange church, advance a slight distance up the aisle, and
wait until the usher, or some pew-owner, invites you to a seat.
4. In escorting a lady to a seat, walk beside her until the pew is reached, then
permit her to enter, and follow.
5. If the services have not begun, grave and decorous conversation, in a low
tone, is not improper; but there should be no whispering, giggling nor laughing.
6. When tbe services have begun, no remarks should be made.
7. If the forms, ritual or worship seem singular, there should be no merri-
ment; remember that the Golden Eule is the basis of all etiquette; act as you would
wish a stranger to act in the church of your choice.
8. If you should offer a seat in your pew to any one, do so in silence; a slight,
graceful gesture will convey the invitation as plainly as words. A hymnal and prayer-
book should be passed to the stranger. These should be open at the song or service
for the day.
9. The hat, cane, umbrella, etc., should be taken into the pew and carefully
placed so that neither cane nor umbrella shall fall and make a noise, which is apt to
distract the attention of all.
10. When persons are entering, do not turn around to get a view of them.
11. Never bow across the church to any one after services have begun.
12. No matter how bored you may be by a long, dull and tiresome sermon,
never yawn or leave the church. Your sole recourse should be in not again attending
when the same minister officiates.
13. If obliged by necessity to leave church, do so as gently and noiselessly as
possible, and never during prayers.
14. At the conclusion of a funeral service, wait until the relatives and nearest
friends of the deceased have made their exit before leaving.
15. Only dudes and other vulgarians and simpletons gather at church entrances
and in front of places of amusement to watch those who enter or come out. ' Such
gaping, ill-bred curiosity only befits the boor, and no gentleman should be guilty
of it.
928 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
XIV. Etiquette of Visits.
1. Informal arid general invitations should seldom, if ever, be accepted. If
your society is desired, a specific invitation will be given, and this should always be
in writing.
2. Never by hints, or in any other mannetr, seek an invitation. A letter to
friends or relatives, telling them that j-'ou will come, if convenient, is the height of ill-
breeding, since their only excuse to avoid an invitation, without seeming as ill-bred as
yourself, must be sickness. No matter how great a bore a person may be, these self-
invitations are usually honored, though always regretfully.
3. No one but a thoroughly stupid, selfish and vulgar person, will be guilty of
writing a letter or making a remark, that will force such an invitation.
4. It is best to follow the usual course in these matters.
5. A written invitation should be given, to which a reply, also in writing, should
be returned acknowledging, with thanks, the invitation, and naming a day upon which
you will arrive.
6. Your host should then meet you at the depot and escort you to his house,
where, after meeting the members of the family, you will be shown to the room that
has been prepared for you. Here you will make your toilet, put on fresh clothing,
and be ready to descend to the meal which is next announced.
7. If it is late at night when you arrive, or your journey has been a long or
tiresome one, the hostess will suggest early retiring.
8. Breakfast will also be later than usual, that you may have the opportunity of
getting plenty of rest. At bi-eakfast it is usual and proper that the host should give
you an idea of the daily routine, the hours for meals, etc.
XV. Rules for General Guidance.
1. Your friends, and also the friends of the family, will be invited to meet you
while in the city, and you will be taken to church, concerts, theaters, and whatever
amusements there may be.
2. Of course, you are not expected to adopt the religion of your host, nor he
yours, while you are visiting him. Each may attend different churches; but it is his
duty to accompany you to your church, and to call for you after services.
3. Ladies may assist each other in little household duties while on a visit; but
in volunteering and accepting such light service, judgment must be used. The time
of the guest, as well as the room allotted to him, must be sacred.
4. Should sudden illness occur in the family, you may either volunteer to assist
in ministering to the sufferer, or, if you can be of no assistance, it is best to take an
immediate leave. Especially is the latter best, if the disease should be contagious.
5. Make no demurrer to calls and amusements suggested by host or hostess, and
never show that you are bored or dissatisfied if the calls should be upon dull people,
or the amusements not the most entertaining.
6. If you have no opportunity to return hospitality, small presents to the hostess
ETIQUETTE OF THE STREET, BALL, CHURCH, ETC. 929
and her chilfiren should be made, not as a payment, but as a complimentary testimo-
nial of the pleasure you have received.
7. Never, to use a homely phrase, "outstay your welcome." Remember that
your entertainers are not only put to additional expense while you are with them, but
that their mode of life is disarranged and you are occupying a great deal of their
time.
8. The announcement of your departure should be made, under ordinary circum-
stances, at least a day ahead.
9. While expressing regrets that you must leave, a well-bred host and hostess
will not annoy you with solicitations to stay. In these matters it is taken for granted
that the guest has a proper idea of the length of time he or she should remain.
XVI. Etiquette of the Funeral.
Even Death, the grim visitor that waits alike upon all, demands a special etiquette.
When the loving circle of the home has been broken, and one of its members lies in
the icy sleep of death, the grief of the remaining members demands that some dear
friend shall step forward and make all the arrangements for the funeral.
1. This friend, especially if inexperienced, should call to his aid the undertaker
who is to have charge of the funeral, and whose advice in regard to the ceremonial
will be valuable.
2. If possible, announcements of the death and the time and place of burial
should be made in the local papers, and an invitation extended to all friends to be
present.
3. Invitations, written or printed, may also be sent out, of which forms will be
given in the proper place.
4. It is usual for friends to call only to offer their services or leave cards while
the funeral preparations are being made.
5. It is best that the friend in charge should receive all calls, so as to relieve the
afflicted family from intrusion.
6. To prevent ordinary calls, as soon as the death occurs, crape should be affixed
to the door or bell-knob or knocker.
7. If an old person, the crape should be black and tied with a black ribbon; if
a child, white, tied with a white ribbon, and if a youthful person, or unmarried, black
crape tied with white ribbon is usual.
8. The coffin should rest in the parlor, and it is here that the guests will
assemble. Services may be held there, or at the church.
9. Guests must expect no attention from the members of the family. Some
relative or chosen friend will receive them upon the sad occasion.
10. If there is to be a sermon in church, the coffin will be placed in front of
the altar, and should be covered with a black cloth.
11. After the services an opportunity will be given to friends to take a last view
of the dead. This should be done in solemn, decorous order; the congregation mov-
59
930 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
ing in one direction and passing by the coffin. The halt should be short. There
should be no conversation.
12. When the services are concluded, the coffin will be borne to the hearse by
pall-bearers, who have been selected from the nearest friends of the deceased.
13. The clergyman should now enter a carriage, and precede the hearse to the
cemetery.
14. Immediately following the hearse is the carriage bearing the bereaved
family; relatives and friends follow in the order of their relationship or friendship.
15. The friend in charge shoul4 see the family to their carriage, seat them, and
close the door. He should also arrange the order of precedence, and attend to other
matters.
16. At the gate of the cemetery, it is usual to dismount from the carriages and
follow the coffin, on foot, to the grave.
17. Flowers used to decorate the coffin and the room, where the dead is lying,
should be white. If an aged or married person, the ornament on the coffin is usually
a cross; if young or unmarried, a wreath.
18. Societies of which deceased was a member may be notified through the
papers to attend, or an invitation to the president of each society for its presence is
sufficient.
19. If the death has occurred from any contagious disease, the fact should be
stated in the funeral notice, and the invitation to attend omitted.
20. In England it is usual for the most deeply afflicted to remain at home, and
in this country excess of grief often prevents their attendance at the grave.
21. Cards should be left for the bereaved family the week following the funeral,
and in the second week brief calls may be made.
22. From these calls of condolence persons themselves lately afflicted, or in
mourning, may be excused, since they might only renew their own grief.
XVII. Etiquette of the Christening.
1. When a child is to be baptized, near friends or relatives are chosen to act a's
sponsors or god-parents.
2. If it is the first child in the family, the preference is usually given to the
grandfather on the father's side and the grandmother on the maternal side. Should
this not be feasible, the other grandparents have the next preference.
3. For other children, and often for the first, other sponsors are chosen.
4. The child, clothed all in white, and held by its nurse, is carried into the
church, or if at home, into the room, followed by its sponsors, side by side, but not
arm in arm, and they in turn are followed by the parents; or the father alone, if the
mother should be unable to attend.
5. When the question, "Who are the sponsors for this child?" is asked, the
god-parents simply bow, and the ceremony proceeds. The nurse stands near the
baptismal font, the child upon her left arm. Upon her right stands the god-father;
ETIQUETTE OF THE STREET, BALL, "cHUECH, ETC. 931
the god-mother, upon her left. The parents are next to them, and behind are the
relatives and friends in their order of relationship.
6. Light refreshments may be passed after the ceremony, if performed in the
house; if in church, the guests usually disperse to their homes.
7. God-parents are expected to make to baby as rich presents as are in keeping
with their means, and they are supposed to look after its future welfare, both tem-
poral and spiritual.
8. No one should volunteer as a god-parent, unless he or she knows that the
offer will be gladly received.
9. It is sometimes appropriate for persons of great wealth or high station to so
volunteer, when they have good cause to suppose that only the superiority of their
position prevents their being invited.
CHAPTEK III.
ETIQUETTE OP THE WEDDING, THE ROAD AND THE CAPITAL.
I. ETIQUETTE OF WEDDING ENGAGEMENTS. II. THE WEDDING. III. THE CEREMON"^ IN OHUEOH.
IV. WEDDING KEGBPTIONS. V. ETIQUETTE OF THE EGAD— TRAVELING. VI. LADIES TRAVELING
— THEESCOKT. VII. GENEEALEULES FOE TEAVELING. YJIl. ETIQUETTE IN WASHINGTON. IX.
ETIQUETTE OF SHOPPING. X. SPECIAL EULES OF DEPOETMENT. XI. GEOEGE WASHINGTON'S
ONE HUNDEED EULES OF LIFE GOVEENMENT.
.T^ I. Etiquette of Wedding Engagements.
gT is now the vile and outrageous fashion to announce engagements in the society
items of the press. This fashion is an European innovation, entirely unsuited
to this country, and is of doubtful merit, except among people so great as to
have their marriages a matter of public importance.
2. When an engagement has been, formed, the matter should be promptly
announced to the members of the two families, and if living sufficiently near, visits
should be exchanged; the gentleman's family making the first call.
3. This call should, of course, be returned within a reasonable time.
4. Should the families reside some distance apart, a pleasant interchange of
compliments, beginning as above, with the gentleman's family, may take place by
letter.
5. Interchanges of presents between the engaged couple are not inappropriate;
those of the lady usually consisting of articles of her own handiwork, as a watch-case,
slippers, etc
6. The fore-finger of the left hand is the one upon which the engagement ring
is worn ; the wedding ring is placed upon the third finger (that next to the little finger)
of the same hand.
7. An invitation to a lady known to be engaged should include her lover, and if
it does not, she is justified in ignoring it.
8. When from any cause it becomes necessary to break an engagement, it
should be done in a frank manner. Of course there must be grave cause to justify
such a rupture.
9. There should be no absurd jealousies ; neither should there be, upon either
side, the remotest approach to the vulgar and odious practice of flirting with others.
The behavior toward each other should be respectful and tender, but in it there should
be nothing of love-sickness
II. The Wedding.
1. "Weddings are usually celebrated in the early days of the week, and rarely
later than Thursday. The month of May is usually avoided, owing to a superstitious
belief in its ill luck.
ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING, THE KOAD AND THE CAPITAL. 933
2. A marriage should never take place in Lent. June, July and August are the
months usually chosen by fashionable people in Europe ; in this country no particular
months seem to have a preference. Forms for wedding invitations will be given
among other forms.
3. A private wedding requires neither bridesmaids nor groomsmen; in church
there may be any even number not exceeding eight of each.
4. Bridesmaids should be younger than the bride.
5. The principal decoration of the dresses should be flowers.
6. The ornaments of the bride should be few.
7. Plain white of rich fabric with garland and veil is the most appropriate
costume.
8. Bridesmaids may wear more jewelry, but should not wear richer dresses than
the bride.
9. The "best man," or nearest friend of the groom, should relieve him from
all bother incident to the ceremony, and the tour which succeeds it, such as making
arrangements, procuring tickets, checking baggage, settling bills,' etc.
III. The Ceremony in Church.
1. When married in church, it is the duty of the bridegroom to send a carriage
for the minister who is to perform the ceremony.
2. The front seats of the church are usually separated from the others by a
white ribbon, and are reserved for the near relatives and friends of the bride and
groom.
3. Ushers, wearing each a white rose, are on hand to show guests to seats.
4^ The ushers attend the bridal party at the door of the church and escort them
to the altar.
5. The procession is formed thus: the "best man" and chief bridesmaid lead
the way to the altar, followed by the other attendants, in the order of their preference,
and followed by the bridegroom with the bride's mother on his arm. Last comes the
bride upon the arm of her father.
6. Arriving at the altar, the bride takes her position upon the left of the groom,
the bridesmaids standing upon her left, slightly in the rear; the bridegroom's attend-
ants standing to his right, also slightly to the rear. The father, who gives away the
bride, stands just behind the young couple, and slightly in advance of the bride's
mother.
7. If a ring is to be used, it is the duty of the chief bridesmaid to remove the
glove of the bride.
8. The responses should be in a low tone, but clear and distinct.
9. After the ceremony, tli« first to approach and speak to the bride will be her
parents; next, the parents of her husband; then relatives and friends in the order of
nearness.
934 THE HOME AND FARM MA^^UAL.
10. The bridegroom now gives his arm to the bride and moves toward the
vestry, where he raises her veil and kisses her.
11. She may be also kissed by a few of her female friends and her relatives.
12. A wedding march is appropriate as the exit from the church begins, and as
the carriages drive off the church bells should ring merrily.
IV. Wedding Receptions.
1. A SHORT reception is usually given at the bride's home. Those who call to
congratulate the happy couple must first address the bride, unless acquainted only
with the groom, who will present them.
2. At the wedding feast, the newly-married pair occupy the center of the table,
the bride's father and mother sitting, as usual, at the head and foot of the table.
The bride sits on the groom's right.
3. After retiring from this meal, the bride changes her dress, putting on her
traveling costume.
4. This costume should be neat and quiet.
5. Occasionally the bride is wedded in her traveling dress, but this is seldom the
case when the wedding is in church.
6. Upon the return of the bride, she will be assisted in her reception by her
mother, sister, or some intimate friend.
7. These calls should be returned within a week.
V. Etiquette of the Road— Traveling.
Even in the bustle of railway and steamer travel there is a certain etiquette to be
observed. Nothing more severely tests the politeness of a person than the disagree-
able conditions that often attend modern journeying. The crowded car, the impatient
throng at the ticket-office, and often the surly and ill-bred servants of railway corpo-
rations, try the patience and good breeding of the traveler. To be cool and careful,
neither dilatory nor in a violent hurry, and to. take matters with imperturbable
serenity, mark the man of culture, being familiar with the various modes and miseries
of travel.
1. The novice is apt to be too suspicious or too confiding.
2. Few questions should be asked, and when possible, always of railway porters,
passenger directors and other public servants.
3. If compelled to ask a question of a stranger, do so in a polite manner, pre-
facing your question with, " Excuse me, sir ! " or, " I beg your pardon, sir ! "
4. To ask questions, especially needless ones, betrays the greatest verdancy,
and the questioner is apt to be taken advantage of.
5. If with a friend who is familiar with a city, never appeal for any information
about it to a stranger. Such conduct is an insult to the common sense or honesty of
your friend.
ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING, THE ROAD AND THE CAPITAL. 935
(i. Always, when possible, procure through tickets. Buy your tickets a day in
advance, if possible, and thus save haste and confusion. The lower central berths in
a sleeping-car are the best.
7. Never thrust your attentions on a lady traveler, but render any assistance in
your power. Never attempt to force a conversation or an acquaintance in return for
any service.
8. If appealed to, give your advice, but never intrude it.
9. Of course if you should hear false information given or an improper place
recommended, you may in a genteel way inform the intended victim of the true state
of the case.
10. Never be anxious to trumpet the praises of any hotel. If your opinion is
asked, merely say that you put up at such a house and find it well kept, and a
desirable stopping place. To a friend who is visiting a strange place, with which you
are acquainted, you may recommend a hotel.
11. If requested, or if you see that a lady or gentleman is an invalid, timid, or
disabled, you may offer to procure their tickets, check their baggage, etc,
VI. Ladies Traveling— The Escort.
1. If traveling with a lady, it is your duty to perform for her the services just
mentioned.
2. When you reach a city, j'ou should engage a carriage, and see her to her
abode. If it is a hotel, escort her to the parlor, excuse yourself, go to the office and
register her name, and get a desirable room for her.
3. Then escort her to her door and leave her, having mentioned the hour of the
next meal, for which you should await her in the parlor, and to which you should
accompany her.
4. It is neither your duty nor your privilege to pay for the tickets of a lady
with whom you may be traveling. Small items, such as a dinner, 'bus and car fare,
you may pay; but she will prefer to pay any considerable sum herself, and should be
allowed to do so, as she thereby retains her self-respect and independence.
5. No lady can afford to accept money favors from any gentleman, save a very
near relative. ^
6. No lady should accept promiscuous attentions when traveling; to do so is
unwise and dangerous.
7. If any person seeks to intrude himself upon a lady, the proper reserve will
generally cause him to resume his distance. Should this not be sufficient, an appeal
to the conductor or other official will secure her from further annoyance.
8. Among ladies, it is customary to take turn about in paying street car fares,
also for lunches, ices, etc.
9. In this matter, there should be a reciprocity; a lady who suffers her friend
to pay all such little costs is wanting in breeding. Such conduct in a man would be
called selfish yulgarity, and he would be promptly denounced as a " sponge."
936 THE HOME A^T) FAEM MANUAL.
VII. General Rules for Traveling.
1. In traveling, be considerate of others. Never occupy two seats while others
are standing.
2. Make way promptly and pleasantly; not as if you were doing a favor, but
only granting a just right.
3. Never keep your window open, if it annoys a lady, or even a gentleman who
is an invalid, or weaker or much older than yourself.
4. You are not obliged to continue an acquaintance begun while traveling,
though if mutually agreeable there is no reason why a friendship may not be formed
thus.
5. Never permit a lady to stand while you are seated. An aged gentleman
demands the same courtesy.
6. Never enter into disputes with either passengers or officials. Avoid all
causes of contention. If any imposition is practiced, it may be remedied by an
appeal to the higher officials of the company, or if they should refuse to act, by
bringing the matter into couit.
7. Avoid all games of chance with strangers, however innocent they may seem.
It is only a very silly person who is ready to volunteer to assist in making up a
game of cards with strangers. A gambler, able to protect himself against swindling,
might do so with impunity, but a gentleman can not afford to take such chances.
8. Avoid any exhibitions of activity in getting on and off trains while in
motion, or springing to a wharf before a steamer has fairly landed. The slightest
slip may cause a loss of a limb or of life.
VIII. Etiquette in Washington.
The etiquette of the courts of Europe is firmly established by a code of enact-
ment, as rigorously observed as is the civil, or penal code of the country.
1. Even at our national capital, a code has been agreed upon, to prevent the
frequent clashing of rival claims. The order of public precedence has been fixed
thus :
First, The President and members of his family.
Second, Heads of Departments.
Third, Governors of States.
Fourth, Justices of the Supreme Court.
Fifth, Members of Congress.
Sixth, The Diplomatic Corps.
Seventh, Military and Naval Officers.
Eighth, All others.
2. This is the order of reception on the First of January and the Fourth of
July, when the public receptions of the President are held, beginning at noon.
3. On all other occasions the Supreme Judges rank next to the President and
Vice-President.
ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING, THE EOAD AND THE CAPITAL. 937
4. The Vice-President pays a final call on the President on the assembling of
Congress.
5. From all others he is entitled to the first call. These calls he may return in
person or by card.
6. The members of the Supreme Bench call upon the President and Vice-Presi-
dent on the meeting of their court, which is in December. Also on New Year's day_
and the Fourth of July.
7. From all others they are entitled to the first call, and thus, socially, outrank
all others, except the President and Vice-President.
8. Cabinet members must call first upon the President, Vice-President, the
Supreme Judges, Senators, and the Speaker of the House.
9. All others must call first upon them.
10. Senators call first upon President and Vice-President, upon the Supreme
Judges, and the Speaker of the House.
11. They are entitled to the first call from all others.
12. The Speaker of the House calls first upon the President, Vice-President,
and Judges of the Supreme Court; but all others must call first upon him.
13. Members of the House of Representatives call upon the President, Vice-
President, Supreme Judges, their Speaker, Senators, Cabinet Ministers, and Foreign
Ministers.
14. Foreign Ministers call upon the President, Vice-President, Cabinet Officers,
the Supreme Justices, and Speaker of the House. All others should call first upon
them. Judges of the Court of Claims rank next in social order.
15. The wives of cabinet ministers hold receptions every Wednesday from two
or three o'clock until half past five. Their houses are open to all. Refreshments,
generally of a light character, as coffee, chocolate, tea, cakes, etc., are provided.
Callers at their Wednesday receptions are entitled to two return calls ; the first by the
ladies of the family who have the official card of the minister ; the second call is an
invitation to an evening reception.
16. Cabinet officers are expected to entertain almost all governmental officials
and members of the Diplomatic corps and their families at dinner parties. With
other officials, as Senators, Representatives, etc., it is optional whether they entertain
or not.
IX. Etiquette ol: Shopping.
It is impossible for the well-bred person to treat any one with wanton rude-
ness, and in fact a due amount of consideration for all is the strongest mark of good
breeding.
1. Though a person may be employed for no other purpose than to wait upon
all comers, yet he or she is entitled to polite and considerate treatment. It is only the
rude and boorish who treat with scorn or roughness any of those whom they may
deem their inferiors.
938 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
2. The truly gracious and refined see in an humble position still the greater need
for courteous treatment, lest they may add further bitterness to a lot already suffi-
ciently hard.
3. To go into a shop, ask the clerk to pull down a lot of goods, look them over,
and cause him to lose his temper, and probably soil the goods, without any intention
of buying, is neither fair nor honest. Such a proceeding is a theft of his time, and
discredits him in the eyes of his employer, who thinks he should have made a sale.
4. Many well-bred ladies, who desire an article and cannot find it, reward the
clerk's patience with a small purchase, if they can find at his counter anything they
can use.
5. Should a stranger be examining goods, never touch them until she has finished
her examination.
6. Never volunteer favorable or unfavorable opinions as to the merits of goods.
If a friend asks an opinion, you may give it politely and mildly.
7. Xever speak about goods you may have seen in other shops; if you do not
like the goods exhibited, take your leave in a quiet way.
8. Some clerks seek to influence a sale by making the statement that Mrs.
(naming usually some wealthy or well-known person) has just ordered a pattern from
it. This is exceedingly silly, and is a reflection upon the taste and judgment of the
examiner, as well as an insult to her independence. Merchants shquld discourage
such ignorance among their clerks.
9. Never haggle over prices. Deal only at stores where there is one price, and
where every one is treated alike. No honest merchant has two prices for his goods;
one for the unwary and ignorant, the other for the shrewd and haggling buyer.
10. The largest and oldest shops in cities are usually the best; as large and
stable businesses can only be built up by honest dealing.
11. Treat all with whom you come in contact with courtesy, from the merchant
to the cash-boy. Remember all of them have rendered you some equivalent for the
money you may have spent.
X. Special Rules of Etiquette.
1. Be cool, quiet and self-possessed in all situations.
2. When you enter a room, bow to all therein. You can afterwards more par-
ticularly salute your friends.
3. Never o-o into company with soiled clothing: use no musk, and remove all
offensive odors from clothes and person.
4. "Cleanliness is next to godliness," and is one of the cardinal points of good
breeding.
5. " Be courteous to all ladies, whatever may be their rank.
6. Gentlemen never cast slurs upon the softer sex, and he is churlish, as well
as ill-bred, who maligns woman in general.
ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING, THE ROAD AND THE CAPITAL. 939
7. Shakspeai-e gives many excellent general rules for social government,
amongst them : "Be thou familiar, but by no means vulgar," showing that even among
friends intimacy should not degenerate into vulgar disregard of all conventionalities.
8. Beware of sudden familiarities.
9. Your dress should be of as rich material as you can afford, but not flashy.
In cut and color it should be quiet and modest.
10. Be prompt in keeping engagements and punctual in meeting all obligations.
11. Avoid borrowing or lending. No man can be independent and but few
honest when in debt.
12. In speaking of friends and acquaintances to others, no matter how intimate,
give them the prefix of Mr., Miss or Mrs., as the case demands..
1.3. Avoid sneering and sarcasm.
14. Be not witty at the expense of another ; no humor is permissible but that
which is perfectly innocent.
15. Punning is a weak apology for wit, and should be eschewed.
16. Never look over anyone's shoulder while reading a book, paper or letter.
17. Never search through a card basket or an album unless invited.
18. Do not be ashamed to tender an apology, if in the wrong. Always accept
one with gentle courtesy.
19. If a secret is intrusted to you, never reveal it; it is neither honorable nor
honest to give away that which is not yours.
20. Exaggeration is foolish. If you must speak, speak the truth.
21. Never display any form of curiosity; it is a despicable trait of character to
be curious about things that do not concern you.
22. Never flatter. A delicate compliment may be innocently offered and well
received, but flattery is odious.
23. Do not whisper in society, and avoid signaling to friends in company.
24. Avoid the use of languages unknown to the generality of the company
25. Never be dogmatic, nor make dictatorial assertions.
26. In entering a house, even your own, always remove your hat, and do not
be boisterous or restless.
27. It is better to have no associations than to have evil ones. Good books or
good thoughts are better than evil companions.
28. Never back your opinions with an oath or a bet. ,
29. Avoid all profanity, loud talking and boisterous merriment.
30. At the breakfast table, politely salute all assembled, if it be the first time
of meeting for that day. A cheerful " good morning" should be passed between the
members of the home circle.
31. Of course, no gentleman will chew tobacco in a church, parlor, or in the
presence of ladies.
32. Be natural. Avoid eccentricity and affectation.
33. Do not ape any one.
940 THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
34. Your room is the place for making your toilet. Do not arrange your cloth-
ing in company.
35. In company avoid paring or cleaning your nails, picking your teeth,
scratching your head, etc.
36. Be not egotistical nor pompous. These faults would cloud the most brilliant
genius; how much more so mere ordinary mortals.
37. Volunteer your aid to any lady in distress, or to an invalid or aged person.
38. You cannot afford to let one beneath you in station exceed you in polite-
ness. Be courteous to every one.
39. Boast of nothing: especially not of your wealth, since that is the least
qualification of a gentleman. ^
40. A wife or husband should speak respectfully of each other, and should be
mentioned as Mr. , or Mrs. .
41. Ostentation is silly and vulgar.
42. Never make your ailments or your troubles a topic of conversation, but
treat sympathetically those who do.
43. Never contradict in a rude manner. Always point out a mistake with
gentle courtesy.
44. Never soil or mark a book that has been lent to you. Return it in good
order; and, if unavoidably injured, return it and a fresh copy also.
45. Never correct a person in grammar, deportment, or in a mistake that does
not implicate you in a wrong.
46. Never remark upon the personal deformity or mental peculiarities of
acquaintances.
47. Upon the street, the lady must first recognize the gentleman.
48. In dancing, gloves should always be worn.
49. You have no right to forget an engagement. To do so without a prompt
and ample apology is equivalent to an insult.
50. A promise made must be carried out, if possible, at any cost.
51. No lady ever sneers at, or comments upon, the dress of another in the
streets.
52. Avoid all slang and florid adjectives. The conversation, like the manners
and the morals, should be quiet, chaste, and simple.
53. Learn to say "No," to all evil invitations and promptings; the true gentle-
man should be courageous as well as kind.
54. No amount of learning, wit and genius can atone for coarseness and ill-
breeding.
55. Depend neither on wit, wealth, nor raiment for your status in society.
XI. George Washington's One Hundred Rules ol Life Government.
But few men display, as did the "Father of his Country," the varied talents of
the soldier, the statesman, the farmer, and the man of business, and if the code of
ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING, THE KOAD AND THE CAPITAL. 941
self-government, which he is said to have prescribed to himself at the early age of
thirteen, had anything to do with his success — and no doubt it did — it is certainly
worthy of the deep consideration of all.
1. Every action in company ought to be some sign of respect to those present.
2. In the presence of others sing not to yourself with a humming noise, nor
drum with your fingers or feet.
3. Speak not when others speak, sit not when others stand, and walk not when
others stop.
4. Turn not your back to others, especially in speaking.
5. Be no flatterer; neither trifle with any one that does not delight in such
familiarities.
6. Read no letters, books or papers, in company except when necessary; then
ask to be excused.
7. Come not near the books or writing of an}^ one so as to read them unasked.
8. Let your countenance be pleasant, but in serious matters somewhat grave.
9. Show not yourself glad at the misfortunes of another, though he were your
enemy.
10. They that are in dignity or office have in all places pi'ecedency; but whilst
they are young they ought to respect those that are their equals in birth or other
qualities, though they have no public charge.
11. It is good manners to prefer those to whom we speak before ourselves,
especially if they be above us — with whom in no sort should we take the lead.
12. Let your discourse with men of business be short and comprehensive.
13. In writing or speaking give to every one his due title, according to his degree
and the custom of the place.
14. Strive not with your superiors in argument, but always submit your judg-
ment to others with modesty.
15. When a man does all he can, though it succeeds not well, blame not him
that did it.
16. It being necessary to advise or reprehend any one, consider whether it
ought to be done in public or in private, presently or at some other time, also in what
terms to do it.
17. In reproving any one, do it with no sign of choler, but with sweetness and
mildness.
18. Mock not, nor jest at anything of importance.
19. Break no jests that are sharp and biting.
20. Laugh not at your own wit.
21. Wherein you reprove another be unblamable yourself, for example is more
impressive than precept.
22. Use no vituperative language against any one.
23. Avoid all blasphemy.
24. Be not hasty to believe disparaging reports against any one.
942 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
25. Avoid all gossip and scandal.
26. In your dress be modest. Affect nothing singular or unusual.
27. Go to no extreme of fashion ; be well but not gaudily dressed.
28. Play not the peacock, looking about on every side to see if you be well
decked.
29. Never play with your dress in company, nor look at yoiirf^elf to see if your
clothes fit, or if they be awry.
30. Associate yourself with men of good quality if you esteem your own
reputation.
31. It is better to be alone than in evil company
32. Let your conversation be without malice or env^".
33. When angry, beware of haste; give reason time to resume her sway.
34. Do not urge any one to discover to you his secrets.
35. To reveal the secrets of another is base and dishonest.
36. Do not tell extravagant or marvelous stories.
37. Utter not base and'frivolous things amongst grown or learned men.
38. Do not discourse on learned subjects to the iguorant, neither use obscure
words or language in conversation with them.
39. Speak not of doleful things in time of mirth, nor at the table. Never speak
of melancholy things at inappropriate times ; of death and wounds ; and if others men-
tion them, change if you can the discourse.
40. If you must tell your dreams, do so only to intimate friends.
41. Break not a jest when none take pleasure in mirth.
42. Laugh not loudly, nor at all without occasion.
43. Do not talk loudly, nor exhibit a boisterous demeanor.
44. Deride no man's misfortunes, though there seem to be cause to do so ;
neither laugh at the calamity of any one.
45. Speak not injurious words, neither in jest nor in earnest; scoif at none,
even though they give occasion.
46. Be not forward, but friendly and courteous.
47. Salute all who pay you that courtesy; hear and answer politely.
48. During a conversation affect not sad and pensive airs, or abstraction.
49. Neither detract from others nor be excessive in commending.
50. Go not where you are doubtful of a welcome.
51. Give no advice without being asked; then let it be brief.
52. When two are contending take not the part of either.
53. In indifferent matters, go with the majority
54. Do not presume to correct the mistakes of others; that is the privilege of
parents, masters and superiors.
55. Gaze not rudely on any one, neither note their deformities or peculiarities.
56. Do not use any foreign tongue in company, except to one ignorant of
English.
ETIQUETTE OF THE WEDDING, THE KOAD AND THE CAPITAL. 943
57. Let your conversation be modest, and your language that of good society.
58. Spealt plainly; do not drawl out your words, nor speak through your
nose.
59. Treat solemn and sacred things with reverence.
60. Let your conversation indicate thought; silence is .better than idle talk.
61. When another is speaking, be attentive. Should he hesitate for words, do
not supply them. Never interrupt another while talking.
62. Select the proper time to talk upon any kind of business.
63. Never whisper in the company of others.
64. Make no odious comparisons.
65. Should you hear any one commended for any act, commend not another for
the same or a greater. action.
66. Be not curious to learn the affairs of others.
67. Never intrude yourself upon others that speak in private.
68. Undertake not what you cannot perform; make no promises you cannot
fulfill.
69. Never attempt in an argument to bully others; give to every one perfect
liberty in expressing himself, and always be willing to submit to the majority.
70. Be not tedious in discourse; make not many digressions, nor repeat the
same tales.
71. Speak not ill of the absent; it is both cowardly -and unjust.
72. Let all your pleasures be pure and manly.
73. Neither speak nor laugh when your superiors are talking; listen respectfully
and without impatience.
■ 73. Never be angry at the table; if annoyed, conceal your vexation, lest others,
too, be made unhappy.
74. Jog not the table or desk at which another is I'eading or writing.
75. Lean not on any one, nor slap friends and acquaintances on the back or
shoulder.
76. Affect not singularity in dress, manner or conversation.
77. Avoid many and extravagant adjectives.
78. Never look on when another is reading or writing.
79. Avoid sudden friendships.
80. Distrust those that protest vehemently.
81. Make no friendships with silly or evil persons. .
82. Never seem to indorse any one that is disreputable.
83. It is best to avoid association with those who show any disrespect for old
age.
84. Observe the customs of those older and wiser than yourself
85. Avoid becoming a borrower or lender of money.
86. Never do any action of which you have not well studied the consequences.
87. Be neither prodigal nor miserly; avoid both extremes.
9-L4: THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
88. A good listener is more esteemed by all than a good talker.
89. Avoid all vulgar ostentation; do nothing for show.
90. Be upright in all dealings.
91. Never be outdone in courtesy or politeness
92. Live temperately, but be not ascetic.
93. Avoid hypocrisy; never seem to be what you are not.
94. Avoid fanaticism and be not dictatorial nor too positive.
95. Never oppress nor deride those weaker, poorer or more ignorant than
yourself.
96. Avoid all games of chance, especially with those who make a proposition of
cards or dice.
97. Never attempt to make good an assertion with a wager.
98. Live not only honestly, but honorably; be chaste, moral and correct in all
things.
99. Obey your parents in all things.
100. Revile not religion; when you speak of God, his works or attributes, do
so reverently, and in church let your conduct be serious and solemn.
CHAPTER IV.
FORMS, LETTERS, FRENCH PHRASES, ETC.
I. WEITTBN ISrVITATlONS TO DINNER AND SOCIAL PARTIES. ^11. OTHER INVITATIONS — EVENING
PARTY. III. AOOEPTANCBS AND KEGltETS. IV. FRIENDLY INVITATIONS. V. FRIENDLY ACCEP-
TANCES AND REGRETS. VI. LETTERS OF INTRODUCTION. VII. LETTERS OP RECOMMENDATION.
Vm. ASKING A LOAN, AND THE REPLY. IX. DIRECTING A LETTER. X. SUGGESTIONS FOR
LETTER-WRITERS. XI. STYLES OF CARDS. XU. FRENCH WORDS AND PHRASES IN GENERAL
USE. Xin. TREATMENT OF CHILDREN. XIV. SEVENTY-FIVE CARDINAL RULES OF ETIQUETTE.
^XV. ALPHABET OF ETIQUETTE.
I. Forms of Written Invitation to Dinner and Social Parties.
Mr. and Mrs. E. H. Emory request the pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. O. H. Pierce's company,
on Tuesday, .Jan'y 9th, at Jive o'clock.
No. 27 Caroline Terrace.
Mr. William Qaw requests the pleasure of Mr. John A. Wheeler's company, at dinner, on
Tuesday, April 1st, at 73^ o'clock.
Windsor Hotel.
INVITATION TO SOCIAL PARTY.
Mr. and Mrs. T. S. Strader request the pleasure of Mr. Und Mrs. O. Adams' company, on
Monday, Aug. 2Sth,from 8 to 12 o'clock.
No. 819 Boulevard Haussman.
Mr. and Mrs. Beuben Springer request the pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. Samuel Randall's
company, on Wednesday, March 11th, at 8 o'clock.
85 East Batcliffe Boad. Soiree Dansante.
INVITATION TO MUSICAL PARTY.
Compliments of Mrs. Jno. H. Scudder, to Mr. and Mrs. J. J. Terry, and requests the
pleasure of their company on next Friday evening, June 9th, to meet members of the Arion
27 North Beaumont Ave.
II. Other Invitations— Evening Party.
Mrs. Ridgely Eveline DeVere requests the pleasure of the company of Mr. and Mrs. Jno.
Estin Cook and family, to evening party, Tuesday, December 8th, at 8 o'clock.
Music and cards.
Mrs. Junius B. Allison requests the pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. Benick DeBar's company,
on November 19th, at half -past nine o'clock.
No. 9 Benton Place.
00 t««l
946 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
INVITATION TO CONVERSAZIONE (ENGLISH).
Mrs. Brocton DeLisle-Morik requests the pleasure of the company of Mr. and Mrs. Lester
Wallach and Miss Mary Anderson, on Tuesday, Sept. 18th, at 8 o'clock, to meet Mr.
Henry Irving.
58 Park Place, Ghodmondely,
North Brompton Boad, E. S.
Note. — Invitations are often dated similarly to letters, thus:
FeTyruary 18th, 1883.
Mrs. Bedway Benton requests the pleasure of Miss Bernice Plympton's company to an
evening party, on Thursday next, at 8 o'clock.
Benton Villa.
INVITATION TO CHILDREN'S PARTY.
Miss Pansie Abel requests pleasure of Miss Bertie LindelVs company on Monday evening,
January 12th, from 5 to 10 o'clock.
No. 18 Sedgwick St.
INVITATION TO A BALL.
Invitations to balls are almost invariably printed, and a form is hardly necessary
here, since they can be supplied at any printing office. A written invitation should
follow this, or a nearly similar form:
The pleasure of your company is requested
at a Hop,
at Mrs. S. H. Allen\, on Wednesday evening, December 28th, 1883,
at 9 o'clock.
III. Acceptances and Regrets.
Mr. John Jones accepts, with pleasure, Mr. Bobert Smith's kind invitation for Monday
evening, Aug, i2th.
Southern Hotel-
Tuesday, Aug. 6th, 1883.
Mrs. Nicholas Longworfh accepts the kind invitation of Mr. and Mrs. Bedway Benton, for
Thursday evening, May 12th.
Caroline Terrace,
Tuesday, May 5th, 1883.
REGRETS.
Mr. John Smith regrets that he cannot accept Mr. Edward Brown's polite invitation, for
Tuesday evening.
Buckingham Hotel,
Friday, March 11th, 1883.
A previous engagement, sudden illness of any member of family, or any other
valid excuse may be added. When an acceptance has to be revoked, the excuse
should always be given, and should be a sufficiently weighty one.
FORMS, LETTEES, FRENCH PHRASES, ETC. 947
IV. Friendly Invitations.
WheJst persons are intimately acquainted, of course, less formal invitations may
be extended. A few forms are here given :
TO DINNEK.
John Corlew, Esqr. ^ New York, May 20th, 1883.
Friend Corlew.
I have invited a few friends to a dinner, which is set for
Wednesday, May 26th, at six o'' clock, and it would give me great pleasure if you would form
one of the number.
Please let me know if you are at liberty to accept this invitation, and oblige
Yours Very Truly,
Hoffman House. *■ A. J. Thomas.
TO A PICNIC.
Miss Milly 'Adams. ,
Dear Milly:
We have made up a little party to go to "The Heights" on a
picnic party, on the 1 6th. We anticipate quite an enjoyable time, which, on my part at least,
will be heightened by your making one of the number. Will you do so ? Please let me
know, and oblige.
Your Friend,
Honeysuckle Glen. Buth Herndon.
FOB A DRIVE.
Miss Minnie Martin. St. Louis, Oct. 20th, 1883.
My Dear Minnie:
I am going for a drive in Forest Park to-morrow, and would
be delighted if you would accompany me. Can you not do so ? Mamma will act as chaperone.
We start at two o^clock. Let me know if it will be convenient for you to go.
Very Truly, Yotir Friend,
99 Lucas Place. Mamie Stevens.
V. Friendly Acceptances and Kegrets.
The acceptances to these informal invitations require no greater amount of
ceremony; the following answers would be suitable.
A. J. Thomas, Esqr. N. Y., May 21st, 18S3.
Friend Thomas:
Your kind invitation was duly received, and it affords me
great pleasure to be able to accept. In the meantime, believe me, in haste, but as ever,
Your Friend,
Fifth Avenue Hotel. , John Corlew,
Miss Buth Herndon. Brunswick, Mo., June 12th, 1883.
Dear Buth:
I received your note of the 18th with invitation, which it gives
me great pleasure to be able to accept, so you may count me as one (f the party. I donH doubt
but that we will have a good time, though I fear I shall be able to contribute but little to your
enjoyment, not from want of desire, however. You may certainly expect me, and until then,
adieu.
Yours, Ever,
Rose Hill. Milly Adams.
948 i THE H03IE AND FAEil JIANUAX.
FORMS FOK REGRETS.
A regret should be worded somewhat in this manner :
Miss Mamie Stevens. St. Louis, Oct. 20th, '83.
Dear Mamie:
I rec'd your note with its kind invitation a fete moments since.
I am so sorry that a prior engagement compels me to decline. Ton don't know how much I
regret my inability to accept. With kindest regards to your mother, believe me, dear Mamie,
Ever Tours,
Beaumont Flats. Minnie Martin.
VI. Letters of Introduction.
A GENTLEMAN INTEODCCING A FRIEND.
" Mr. John Buckmaster. Boston, Oct. 15th, 1883.
Friend Buckmaster:
This icill introduce to you my friend, Joachin Miller,
whom I am desirous of having you meet. Mr. Miller tisits St. Louis on social and business
matters, and anything you may be enabled to do that will add to his pleasure or forward, his
interests, will be properly appreciated, and on occasion reciprocated by
Your Friend,
Wallace Overton.
A LADY INTRODUCING A LADY.
Miss Delia Mansfield. Denver, Nov. 1st, 1883.
Dearest Delia:
Allow me to take this occasion to introduce to you Miss
Stella Ball, the bearer of thu letter. I know you have heard me speak of her a hundred times,
and believing that an acquaintance would confer mutual pleasure, I hare urged her to call upon
you, while in your city. Any attention bestowed upon Tier loill be taken as a personal favor btf
Your Friend,
Stasia Mansfield.
VII. Letters of Recommendation.
GENERAL LETTER RECOMMENDING A SERVANT.
New Orleans, Sept. 9th, '83.
To Whom it May Concern: — The bearer of this letter, Bobert Hawkshaw, has been in my
employ for the past three years, as groom and driver, and this is to certify that he has always
proved himself honest and efficient. I therefore take pleasure in recommending him to any one
desiring the services of a careful and competent coachman.
John P. Rogers.
98 Felicity Boad. ,
SPECIAL LETTER RECOMMENDING A CLERK.
Fletcher, Ames & Co., Gunnison, Col., Oct. 12th, 1883.
New York.
Gentlemen: — Tlie bearer of this letter, Mr. Willard Hopkins, has been
in our employ for the last two years, and we have found him efficient and honest. Mis large
acquaintance throughout the West induces him to seek a more extended field of operations,
hence, his visit to your city to obtain a position as traveling salesman.
While we are loath to part with Mr. Hopkins, yet we cheerfully recommend him as a first-
class man for the position he seeks, and we will be glad to hear of his success in securing a.
good position. Very Truly,
Jamison, Sells & Co.
FORMS, LETTERS, FRENCH PHRASES, ETC.
949
VIII. Asking a Loan and the Reply.
Ghas. Jones, Esqr. Chicago, Aug. 8th, 1883.
Dear Sir:
Having failed to make some collections I had regarded as certain,
and not receiving remittances upon which I had counted, I would take it as a great favor if
you would accommodate me with One Hundred Dollars until' the 15th inst-., when it. will he
promptly repaid. Yours Truly,
Herkimer Hudson.
ANSWER COMPLYING.
Chicago, Aug. 9th, 1883.
H. Hudson, Esqr.
Dear Sir:
Yours of yesterday (8th) rec^d, and in reply would say that though
contrary to my usual custom, I herewith enclose amH requested (§100.) Please acknowledge
receipt, and donHfail to return by the 15th, as I shall need it at that time.
Yrs., (6c.,
Ohas. Jones.
ANSWER REFUSING.
Chicago, Aug. 9th, 1883.
H. Hudson, Esqr.
Dear Sir:
Your favor of the 8th rec'd, and I regret to say that it is out of my
power to accommodate you with am't requested. I am myself temporarily short, or should
take pleasure in complying . Yours Truly,
Chas. Jones.
IX. Direoting Letters.
In directing envelopes be careful to write plainly, and especiany avoid any eccen-
tricities, such as some silly persons indulge in. It is best in directing a letter for a
small place, to put county as well as State; but both may be omitted from letters
going to metropolitan cities, as Boston, St. Louis, New Orleans, etc.
The following form is best :
MR. WAT HERNDON,
Washington,
Chariton Co.,
Mo.
950 THE H05IE AND FARM MANUAL.
A return request may be written in the upper left-hand corner, as indicated by
dotted lines. If it is desired to send "in care" of any one, the notification should be
in lower left-hand corner, as indicated by dotted lines.
X. Suggestions for Letter-Writers.
A FEW suggestions in regard to writing and sending letters may not be amiss,
and are herewith given:
1. It is best to read your letters carefully after having finished them, to see that
you have omitted nothing of importance. In the haste of composition much may be
overlooked.
2. Letters on business should be brief, and to the point. Remember that to a
business man time is money.
3. Ahvays write at least legibly. This will ensure your letters being read,
which is not the case with all scrawls.
4. All letters, especially those relating to business, should be promptly
answered.
5. Don't fail to copy all important letters that you may write.
6. It is best to give your address, town, county and State, in each letter. If
, living in a city, street and number will be sufficient.
7. It is best to use what the Government calls " request envelopes," that is,
envelopes with the request printed on them that, " if not called for in days, they
shall be returned to ."
8. Never forget to date your letters. Often a great deal depends on the correct
dating of a letter. Lives and fortunes have been lost by this slight omission.
9. By draft, P. O. order, the new postal-card orders, checks, or by express,
are all better modes of sending money than by registered letter. The Government is
not responsible for money lost in a registered letter.
10. Letters of any importance should be preserved. File them carefully, en-
dorsing on back date of receipt, nature of contents and name of writer.
11. In writing, use moderately heavy paper. Black ink is best, though many
now use only the purple inks, as they flow very freely and do not corrode steel pens.
12. In dating and beginning letters, the following is the correct form in which
the writing should appear, though, of course, any other wording may be used :
Honolulu, Sandwich Islands,
Oct. 1st, 1883.
Maxwell B. Norton, Esgr.
Dear Sir:
Your favor of the 12th day of September, is at hand, etc., etc.
lOKMS, LETTERS, FRENCH PHRASES, ETC.
XI. Styles of Cards.
VISITING CARDS.
FOK A PROFESSIONAL LADY.
Mrs. Jno. D. Peery.
FOR MARRIED LADY.
James A. Jackson.
FOR GESTLEJIAN.
Jno. Harrington,
U. S. N.
FOR HAVAL OFFICJER.
The Misses Simpson.
FOR SISTERS CALLINC TOGETHER.
Miss Mary Smith.
FOE UNMARRIED LADY".
Wm. Gibson,
951
U. S. A.
FOR ARMY OFFICER.
Mrs. Chas. Green,
Miss Green.
FOR LADY AND DAUGHTER.
952
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Visiting cards may have printed on them the day of week on which their owners
receive, thus:
Mes. Wm.
James,
12 Beekt Place.
Tuesdays.
Col.
AND
Mes
. T.
Green,
18 Glenwood Ave.
Thursdays.
WITH DAY OF RECEPTIOX
OTHER CARDS.
Me. and Mes. B. Jones,
Tuesday Evenings.
19 Block Place.
Mr. and
Mrs. W. Manning,
AT HOME,
Tuesday,
November 9th,
3 to 6 o'clock.
1883,
8 Westminstek Teebace.
A lady's visiting cards should not have street and number printed upon them —
especially is this the case if the card belongs to an unmarried lady. If it is neces-
sary to place the number on the card, as in case of a removal, visiting a stranger,
etc., it may be neatly added with a pencil.
XII. French "Words and Phrases in General Use.
There are many French phrases that have come into such general usage among
society people that they have almost entirely displaced the corresponding English
phrases. As it is important to know them, we herewith append a list of those most
generally in use, with a translation of them, which will, no doubt, prove of service
to many novices.
1. Affaire d^amour, A love affair.
2. A la mode, According to the fashion.
3. Apropos, To the purpose.
4. Au contraire, On the contrary.
FOEMS, LETTERS, FRENCH PHRASES, ETC. 953
5. Au fait, CoiTect.
6. Aurevoir, ov,\iBtt6y, A revoir . Until we meet again.
7. Bal masque, ... Masked ball.
8. Blase Faded, satiated.
9. Billet-doux, Love-letter.
10. Bon jour, Good day.
11. Bon mot, A witty saying
12. Bon soir, Good night.
13. Bon ton, Good style, fashion.
14. Carte blanche, Full powei- (literally, a blank card).
15. Chaeun a son gout Each to his taste.
16. Chciteau en Espagne, .... Air castles (literally, castles in Spain) .
17. Chef d' Oeuvre, A masterpiece.
18. Ghh- ami, Dear friend (male).
19. Chetre amie, Dear friend (female),
20. Ci-devant, ... Former.
21. Commeilfaut, . Correct, as it should be.
22. Compagnon de voyage, Traveling comrade.
23. Costume de rigeuer, Full dress.
24. Coupd^Oeil, A glance (literally, a stroke of the eye) .
25. Debut, First appearance.
26. Denouement, .... . The sequel, disclosure.
27. Dot, Dowry.
28. Double entendre, Double meaning.
29. Eclat, .... Dash, brilliance.
30. Elite, '. Very select, choice
31 . Embonpoint, Fatness.
32. Encore, Again.
33. Enmtie, Lassitude, weariness.
34. En regie, , . . . Regularly, properly.
35. Entente cordial Amicable relation.
36. Entree Entrance.
37. Entre nous, Between us.
38. E. P. (Enpersonne), In person.
39. E. V. (Enville), In the town, or city.
40. Faux pas, False step.
41. Fete, An entertainment.
42. Fete champetre, Rural entertainment.
43. Haut ton, • High fashion.
44. Jeu d''esprit A witticism (literally, play of words) .
45. Nom deplume, Assumed literary name.
46. Nous veirons, "We shall see.
47. On dit, They say.
48. Outre, Garish, ridiculous.
49. Parvenu, A would-be fashionable
50. P. P. C. (Pour prendre conge), To take le.we.
51. B. S. V. P. (Bespondee sHl vous plait), .... Please answer.
52. Soi-disant, Self-styled.
53. Soiree Evening entertainment.
54. Soiree Dansante, Dancing party, a ball.
55. Tete-a-tHe, Private, face to face (literally, head to head).
56. Tout ensemble, General appearance, the whole.
57. Vis-a-Vis, Facing, opposite.
!IJ4: THE HOME AKD FARM MATHJAL.
XIII. Treatment of Children.
1. Never swear or use coarse language in the presence of children.
2. Never lower their self-respect by calling them harsh names.
3. Be free to praise a child judiciously when deserving.
i. Never break promises made to children; teach truth by example
5. If necessary to chastise a child, do not do so brutally.
6. Do not expect of children the judgment and care of older persons.
7. It is cruel to keep children up late at night, or to waken them early in the
morning. They require and should have more sleep than grown persons.
8. ]Make of your child a companion, counsel with it and listen to its sorrows
and joys as to those of a friend.
9. Do not cruelly repel its love and drive it to other confidants.
10. Do not embitter with brutality and harshness the only portion of life that
can ever be happy.
11. A child should be dressed respectably ; to cause it to wear coarse or ill-fitting
clothes is sure to degrade it.
12. Teach a child the value of money. Let it have small sums to expend, but
require an account to be kept, and then show to it whether its purchases are wise
or not.
13. Keason with your children and show them the evils of vice, intemperance,
and other bad habits.
14. Teach them to be careful, cleanly, considerate, true and honest.
15. Do not overtask them mentally or physically
16. Give plenty of time for recreation, and encourage healthful out-of-door
games and exercises.
17. Teach by precept and example the observances of etiquette. How to eat
correctly, how to enter a room, how to salute a person, etc., should be a part of the
child's daily training.
XIV. Seventy-five Cardinal Rules of Etiquette.
1. Ix riding, driving or walking, pass to the right.
2. A gentleman should insist on carrying any packages a lady may have.
S. A true lady will always thank any one who accommodates her, as by giving
up a seat in a car, opening a door, etc.
4. No gentleman will stand on a corner, before a theater, or at the door of a
church, and stare at or make remarks upon ladies.
5. No gentleman or lady will be guilty of the vulgarity of flirting.
6. A gentleman who has rendered any assistance to a lady must, as soon as the
service is over, bow respectfully, and pass on.
7. A lady in crossing a muddy street should raise her dress gracefully, with one
hand, only to the top of her shoes.
- FORMS, LETTERS, FRENCH PHASES, ETC. 955
8. It is allowable for a gentleman to offer his arms to two ladies, but no lady
should take the arms of two gentlemen
9. Ladies are usually given the inside of the walk. When, in order to preserve
this position, changes are to be made, the gentleman must pass behind the lady.
10. No gentleman will smoke in a parlor, nor is it allowable even on the street
in the presence of a lady.
11. On very narrow crossings the lady should precede her escort, as then he is
enabled to see that she gets across without accident.
12. No lady should wear a trailing dress upon the street.
13. In order the more effectually to protect a lady, a gentleman should give his
left arm, and in cases of danger this should be done even if it places the lady upon
the outer side of the walk.
14. A lady precedes her escort into a door or gate, down stairs and over a diiE-
cult crossing: the lady takes precedence in going down stairs.
15. A gentleman should always offer his arm to a lady in the evening. In the
daytime it is not usual to do so.
16. If a lady is in distress, any gentleman, whether an acquaintance or not,
should offer his assistance.
17. A lady should not go on the street at night unattended.
18. No gentleman ever makes sweeping innuendoes against the sex. To do so,
^argues an acquaintance only with the most disreputable.
19. Do not clean your nails or pick your teeth in company.
20. It is vulgar to indicate a person by pointing.
21. A practical joke is worse than vulgar : it is cruel.
22. Always give precedence to ladies, invalids and elderly persons.
23. Do not make promises that you do not intend to fulfill.
24. Never touch an acquaintance to call his attention, and never touch any one,
however menial maybe their position, with a cane, parasol or umbrella to secure their
notice.
25. Only vulgarians touch pictures, statues, etc., with canes or parasols, to
point them out, or to indicate any defect or beauty.
26. Every polite question deserves a civil answer.
27. You have no right to lend an article that you yourself have borrowed.
28. Never stand across the pavement, blocking it, and do not occupy a doorway
or narrow hall to the annoyance and retarding of passers.
29. A gift made or a favor rendered should never be alluded to.
30. A gentleman or lady will not only not open the letter of another, but will
not read one already opened, unless requested to do so.
31. Charity to street beggers is a doubtful method of relieving necessities.
32. Only a miserable cad or senseless dude ever boasts of his conquests amongst
the fair sex.
33. Never betray a confidence.
956 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
34. Remember that "too much familiarity breeds contempt."
35. Rejoice not at the calamities of another, even though an enemy.
36. Be gentle and graceful in all things.
37. A present should never be undervalued, nor sent in hopes of a return.
38. Always close the door after you gently and without slamming.
39. Do not boast of your own exploits.
40. Never without necessity pass between two persons engaged in a conversa-
tion — should it become necessary, always apologize.
41. Apologize for passing between any one and the fire, and avoid doing so if
possible.
42. Be punctual in keeping appointments.
43. Never attempt to monopolize the conversation.
44. Never assert anything with a great degree of certainty.
45. Do not call newly made acquaintances by their given names.
46. Do not laugh at your own wit.
47. Be not often the hero of your own legends.
48. In foreign countries boast not overmuch of your own.
49. It is vulgar to question children or servants about the affairs of their
families .
50. Be neither rude to nor familiar with servants. Treat them humanly, yet
with a proper degree of dignity.
51. It is neither just nor honest to punish children for faults in the commission
of which you set them the example.
52. Treat even your enemies courteously under your own roof.
53. Never answer questions addressed to others, or even those that have been
addressed generally to the company of which you are a member.
54. It is better to teach by precept than by example.
5"). Avoid satire and sneering.
56. Wit that wounds should be carefully avoided.
57. Be kind to all; treat courteously those who ask and those who extend favors.
58. Be truthful. Lying is the vice of slaves.
59. Avoid hypocrisy, nor make any false pretences.
60. Invitations should be promptly answered.
61. Do not neglect calling upon friends.
62. If writing to another upon business (of benefit to yourself) do not fail to
enclose postage stamp for reply.
63. Do not cross your legs, or extend your feet out into the aisles of cars or
'busses, as others will be troubled thereby.
64. An offered apology should always be accepted, though it is not necessary to-
again begin a friendship with the person offering it.
65. A lady should not accept expensive gifts, except from near relatives or an
accepted lover.
FOItJIS, LETTERS, FRENCH PHRASES, ETC. 957
66. Avoid all boisterous conduct, in laughing or talking.
67. All extremes should be avoided.
68. Flashy vestments and much jewelry should be avoided.
69. Do nothing that will interfere with the pleasures of others.
70. Do not scoff at the beliefs of others.
71. Be well dressed, but never over-dressed.
72. Treat children with gentleness and consideration. He who beats or abuses
a child, degrades it.
73. Never indulge in profanity ; it is a vice without pleasure or reward.
74. Never associate with any one whom you would not willingly introduce to
your family.
75. Adopt, if not sinful or degrading, the customs of those amongst whom your
lot is cast. Never be singular.
XV. Alphabet of Etiquette.
Avoid thou all evil, all rudeness, all haste,
Be gentle, be cheerful, be kindly, be chaste.
Consider the needs of the old and the weak ;
Don't volunteer counsel, think twice ere you speak.
Ever think last of self, be not boastful or proud,
Fear scandal and gossip, let your talk be not loud.
Greet with equal politeness the high and the low,
Have a heart full of kindness, a soul pure as snow.
Injure none by a look, or a word or a tone ;
Join not those that are evil; far better alone.
Keep promise and counsel, let your word be your bond.
Leave lying to slaves, of yourself be not fond.
Move gently; be modest in action and dress;
Kever swear, never mock at another's distress.
Over dressing avoid, but at fashion don't sneer, ,
Pay due tribute to usage, but bend not to fear.
Quit all that is harmful to self or to othei's,
Kemeraber this world is a wide band of brothers!
Shun the fool and the rulHan; the fop and the boor.
Take pleasure in helping the weak and the poor.
Use good language or none, all coarseness avoid.
Vulgarity's sinful, or with sin alloyed.
Wax ever in virtue, in grace and good will,
Xcelling in good and decreasing in 111.
Yonder sun be thy guidance in everything bright.
Zero marking thy standing in all that's not right.
♦Composed l>y the late Lord D'Israeli, tlieEnglish Premier, at the age of 12 years.
Part XI
JVLISCEIvLANKOUS
VALUABLE TABLES AND RECIPES.
FOODS, SPICES AND CONDIMENTS.
WEIGHTS, MEASURES, LEGAL FORMS, ETC.
MISCELLANEOUS.
CHAPTEK 1.
POOD PRODUCTS OP COMMBRCB,
I. FLOUE AND ITS MANUTACTUKE II. EYE AND ITS PEO DUCTS.— III. BARLEY AND ITS PEODUCTS.
IV. OATS AND THEIR PRODUCTS. V. MAIZK AND ITS PRODUCTS.— VI. BEANS AND PEAS AND
THEIR PRODUCTS. VH. POTATOES AND POTATO PRODUCTS. VIU. SAGE AND TAPIOCA. IX.
CHOCOLATE AND COCOA. X. COFFEE. XL TEA. XII. COTTON-SEED OIL. XIIL SPICES AND
THEIR ADULTEEATION— PEPPEE. XIV. CINNAMON; HOW ;T0 ENOW IF PURE. XV. CLOVES
AND ALLSPICE. XVI. NUTMEGS AND MACE. XVII GINGEE AND ITS PEEPAEATION, XVUI.
CAPERS, TRUE AND SPUEIOUS KLNDS. XIX. THE TAMAEIND
I. Flour and Its Manufacture.
|RIGINALLY the word ' ' flour ' ' was used only to designate the bolted flour of
wheat. Kye, barley, oats, buckwheat and corn were more coarsely ground, and
their products were called meal. Improvements in milling have now so changed
^ the nomenclature, that the products of wheat, rye and buckwheat are now also
called flour. Corn-meal and oatmeal are the only meals, so called, in the United
States, though, in some parts of Europe, and in Asia and Africa, barley is ground
into meal. The grades of wheat flour are numerous under what is known as the
"patent process," by which wheat, often being separated from its bran, is reduced
by successive operations to the requisite fineness. It is not ground by crushing as
formerly, but by grauulating. Wheat and rye are separable into bran, shorts,
middlings, fine, superfine and extra flour. There are several patent processes in suc-
cessful use in the manufacture of flour, and the increased product, per bushel, has
driven most of the ordinary mills to the wall ; so that now the farmer often finds it
cheaper to sell his wheat and buy his flour than to have it ground at country mills.
The principal grades of flour are : Fine, Superfine, Family, and XX, XXX and
XXXX extras ; and every great mill has its own special brand of superior flour.
II. Bye and Its Products.
Rye flour is seldom used alone for bread, but is mixed with fine corn-meal or
wheat flour. Thus used it makes a moist bread, from the quantity of gluten it con-
tains. Rye and Indian bread is much used in cities for breakfast. It requires long
baking, and hence is seldom prepared except by regular bakers. It was formerly much
used ground, as a portion of the cut feed for horses. Its principal use now, in the
United States, is in the manufacture of whiskey.
61 ['«1^
962 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Eye is not generally sown as a field crop On sand}- land considerable quantities
are raised, the product being white and in every way better than that of muckv
soils. The crop, however, is large, and our exports are considerable. The crop of
1881 was 20,704,950 bushels, being less than that of any year since 1876. In 1878
the largest crop of rye ever known in the country was produced, being 25,843,790
bushels. The average value of this grain in 1881 was 93.3 cents per bushel, the
average yield 11.6 bushels per acre, and the average value $10.82 per acre. The
average yield per acre for the last eleven years was 13.9 bushels and the average price
for the same period was 72.2 cents per bushel.
in. Barley and ita Products.
Bablet i* not used for bread in the United States, but it is an important and
valuable crop, immense quantities being used in the manufactui-e of ale and beer.
Pearled barley is manufactured to a limited extent. In this process the barley is first
hulled and then rounded by the attrition of machinery. California, New York and
Wisconsin produce more than half the annual crop. The crop for 1882 was 45,000,000
bushels — an average of 23.5 bushels per acre, a greater yield than any previous year,
except in 1880, when the yield was 45,165,346 bushels, with an average of 24.5
bushels per acre. The average price for the last eleven years is 73.2 cents per
bushel ; the average yearly price ranging from 58.9 to 92.1 cents per bushel.
IV. Oats and Their Products.
Oats are every year more and more used as food in the shape of oatmeal. The
grain is kiln-dried, hulled, and then broken or granulated in a peculiar mill. The
best oatmeal is that prepared by partial cooking, again dried, so that its preparation
for puddings (mush) requires only ten to fifteen minutes. The yield of oats in the
United States in 1862 was 480,000,000 bushels, the largest yield ever known.
Illinois, Iowa, New Yoi"k, Wisconsin, Missouri, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana and
Kansas are the States of largest production. The average produce per acre for the
last eleven years was 27.6 bushels per acre. Certain fields produced over one hun-
dred bushels per acre.
V. Maize and Its Products.
This is the most important grain crop of the United States. As human food
it ranks high, its various products thus used being meal, hominy, samp, hulled corn,
farina and other preparations. Corn is also the great stock-feeding grain. The starch
of commerce is manufactured from it. It is the principal agent in the production of
alcohol, and many millions of bushels are now annually used in the manufacture of
glucose (corn sugar). The Mississippi Valley is the great corn-producing region of
the world, no other country seeming to have such combined capabilities of soil and
climate. In 1882, the States north of Kentucky and west of Pennsylvania produced
] .250,000,000 of the total crop of 1,680,000,000 bushels.
Diagram showing Exports of Breadstuffs, Cotton and other
Domestic Products, and Imports, from the
LATEST official FIGURES.
exports
EXPORTS
IMPORTS
Fore: ku Colli
and ' tiillioii
Forelflrn
Uerohan 3i
Reexpor eit in all things behave as a faithful apprentice ought to do, during the said
term. And the said master shall clotBe and provide for the said in sickness and in health, and
supply him (or her) with suitable food and clothing; and shall use and employ the utmost of his
endeavors to teach, or cause the said apprentice to be taught or instructed in, the art, trade or mystery
of ; and also cause the said apprentice, within such term, to be instructed to read and write
(and in the general rules of ai'ithrnetic) ; and at the expiration of the service, give the said appren-
tice $
And the said , acknowledges that he has received, with the said , from the said .
the sum of dollars, as a compensation for his instruction, as above mentioned.
[971]
972 THE H03rE AND FARM MANUAL.
(If wages are to be paid for the service of the apprentice, insert:) And the said further agrees to
pay to the said the following sums of money — viz., for the first year of service, — ■ dollars;
for the second year of service, dollars; and for every subsequent year, until the expiration of
- — term of service, dollars; which said payments are to be made ou the day of in each
year.
And for the true performance of all anu singular the covenants and agreements aforesaid, the said
parties bind themselves, each unto the other, firmly by these presents.
In Witness Whereof, the parties aforesaid have hereunto set their hands and seals, this day
of , A. D. 18—.
(Signature of Apprentice.) [seal.]
(Signature of Master.) [seal.]
consent of parent ok guardian.
I do hereby consent to, and approve of, the binding of my , as in the above indenture
mentioned. Dated the day of , in the year 18 — .
(Signature.^
CONSENT OF THE CHILD.
1 hereby consent to the foregoing indenture, and agree to conform to the tenns thereof, in all things
on my part to be performed. Dated the day of — , In the year 18 — .
(Signature.)
Complaint of a Master to a Magistrate. —If an apprentice does wrong in
any manner, thereby causing loss to the employer, then the following complaint
may be made:
To , a Justice of the Peace, etc. -.
I, of , in said , machinist, hereby make complaint, that . an apprentice
lawfully indentured to me, and whose term of service is still unexpired, with whom I have not received,
nor am I entitled to receive, any sum of money in compensation for his instruction (or as the facts may
be) , refuses to serve me and conducts himself in a disorderly and improper manner, in this, to wit:
(state the wrong doing), and utterly refuses to perform the conditions of said indenture, as required b}'
law. Dated the day of , A. D. IS—.
State of -|^^
County of-
-, the person named in the foregoing complaint, being duly sworn, deposes aud says, that the
facts and circumstances stated and set forth in the said complaint are true.
Before me, this day of , A.D. 18—.
-, Justice of the Peace.
Discharge of Apprentice, etc. — In case the master abuses the apprentice, or
fails to perform his obligatioias, the courts will give redress as follows :
State of —
County of-
■-}'
Complaint on oath having been made to the undersigned. Justice of the Peace in and for said
county, upon oath by , apprentice of of , in said county, machinist, that the said
to whom said is bound by indentures of apprenticeship, the term of sei-vice in which has not yet
expired, had cruelly beat, etc. (as in complaint and summons), and the said , by virtue of our sum-
mons thereupon issued, having been brought before us, and upon due examination of the parties and
LAW, COMMERCIAL AND OTHER FORMS. SI73
of the evidence adduced by them, it satisfactorily appearing to us that the said is guilty of the
matters charged against him as aforesaid ; now therefore, we do hereby discharge the said from
the service of the said , any thing in his indentures of apprenticeship aforesaid to the contrary
notwithstanding.
Given under our hands and seal this day of , A. D. 18—.
[L. S.]
[L. S.]
-_ Justices of the Peace for said
II. Arrears of Pay and Bounty.
In all applications for arrears of army pay and bounty, the application is sworn
to, and must mention the name and title of the person administering the oath, the
rank of the applicant, the company designated, by its letter, name of captain, name of
regiment, and the branch of the service. We give the first form filled out with ficti-
tious names and statements. The other forms are in blank. .
APPLICATION OP INVALID FOR ARKEAKS OF PAY OR BOUNTY.
State of-
Countyof J""-
^ On this day of 18 — , personally appeared before me, John Doe, a justice of the peace, in
and for the county and State aforesaid, Richard Eoe, of , in the county of , and State of
who being duly sworn, declares that his age is years; that he is the same Eichard Roe who was a
private in Company A, commanded by James Arnold, in the tenth Regiment of Illinois volunteers,
cavalry, who was honorably discharged from the service of the United States at , in the State
of , on or about the day of 18 — , by reason of amputation of the left leg.
This declaration is made to recover all arrears of pay and other allowances due said Richard Roe
from the United States, and the bounty provided by the section of the act of Congress, approved
(date of approval). And he hereby appoints Thomas Bliss, of^ , as his lawful attorney, and
authorizes him to present and prosecute this claim, and to receive and receipt for any orders or moneys
that may be issued or paid in satisfaction thereof. The post-office address of the claimant is Clarendon,
Coles county, Illinois.
' iSignature of claimant .']
Also personally appeared before me, Edwin Wright and Able Strong, of the county of and
State of , to me well known as credible persons, who, being duly sworn, declare that they have
been for years acquainted with the. above-named Richard Roe, who was a private in Company A,
of the 10th Regiment of Illinois Volunteers, and know that the applicant is the identical person he.
represents himself to be; that they saw him sign the foregoing declaration; and that they have no
Interest whatever in this application. (Signatures of witnesses.)
Sworn to and subscribed before me, this day of , 18—; and I hei-eby certify that I have
no interest, direct or indirect, iu the prosecution of this claiifi.
(Signature and title of Magistrate.;
widow's application for arrears of pay and bounty.
State of-
County of j
On this day of , 18— , personally appeared before me in and for the county and
State aforesaid, , of , in the county of , and State of , who, being duly sworn,
declares that her age is years ; that she is the widow of , late of the county of and
State of , who was a in Company , commanded by , in the Regiment of
who died in the service of the United States at , In the State of , on or about the
974 THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
day of ,18 — ; that her maiden name was , and that she was married to said .
deceased, on or about the day of , 18 — , at , in the State of , by ; that she
has remained a widow since the decease of her said husband, and knows there is no record evidence of
said marriage (or that there is record evidence of said mamage, to wit: stating the evidence).
This declaration is made to recover all arears of pay and other allowances due said deceased from
the United States, and the bounty provided by the 6th section of the act of Congress, approved July
22, 1861. And she hereby appoints , of , as her lawful attorney, and authorizes him to pre-
sent and prosecute this claim, and to receive and receipt for any orders or moneys that may be issued
or paid in satisfaction thereof. Her post-offlce address is as follows :
(Signature of claimant.)
Also personally appeared before me, and , of the county of , and State of
to me well Ivnown as credible persons, who, being duly sworn, declare that they have been for
years acquainted with the above-named applicant, and with said deceased, who was a-
Company , of the Eegiment of , and linow that said deceased recognized said applicant
as his lawful wife, and that she was so recognized by the community in which she resided ; and that
they have no interest whatever in this application. (Signatures of witnesses.)
Sworn to, etc.
CHILDREN S APPLICATION FOR ARREARS OF PAT AND BOUNTY.
State of-
County of / °°'
On this day of , IS — , personally appeared before me, a , in and for the county and
State aforesaid, , of , in the State of , aged years (and of , in the State
of , aged years), who, being duly sworn, declare that the above-named persons are of the age
stated, and are the legitimate children of , late of ■, in the county of , and State of
who was a in Company , commanded by of the- Eegiment of , who died, or
was killed, in the service of the United States at , on or about the day of , 18 — . That
their mother's name was , and that she is dead.
This application is made to recover all arrears of pay and other allowances due the deceased from
the United States, and the bounty provided by the 6th section of the act of Congress, approved July
22, 1861. And the applicant hereby appoint , of , their lawful attorney, and authorize
him to present and prosecute this claim, and to recover and receipt for any orders or moneys that may
Tdc issued or paid in satisfaction thereof. Their post-offlce address is as follows :
(Signatures of claimants.)
Also personally appeared before me, and of the county of , and State of ,
to me well known as credible persons, who, being duly sworn, declare that they have been for
years acquainted with the above-named applicants, and with said , deceased, who was a in
Company , of the Eegiment of , and know the above-named cliildren to be the legitimate
children of said deceased; and that the deponents have no interest whatever in this application.
Sworn to, etc. (Signatures of witnesses.)
The widow and children of- person entitled to arrears of pay or bounty being
■dead, the fathers, mothers, brothers and sisters of the dead soldier may apply, chang-
ing the form to suit the respective case.
III. Porms for Bounty Lands.
Land is given for service in the army of the. United States and in the volunteer
service under certain conditions. The widow of the deceased soldier may apply, and
also for a second warrant, the first not having been received, only changing the words
to suit the circumstances. Every detail must be stated as to discharge, disability, etc.
LAW, COMMERCIAL AND OTHER FORMS. 975
AI^PLICATION FOK BOUNTY LAND BY ONE NEVER 'BEFORE APPLYING.
State of-
Couuty of-
On this day of , A. D. one thousand eight huudi-ed and , personally appeared before me,
a justice of the peace, within and for the county and State aforesaid, , aged years, a resident
of ) in the State of , who, being duly sworn according to law, declares that he is the identical
who was a in the company commanded by Captain , in the Kegiraent of , com-
manded by , in the war with ; that he enlisted at , on or about the day of-
A. D. , for the term of , and continued in actual service in said war for the term of , and
was honorably discharged at , on the day of —, A. D. , by reason of on the day
of 18 — , at , in the State of , while in the service aforesaid, and in the line of his duty.
(A) He makes this declaration for the purpose of obtaining the bounty land to which he may be entitled
under the act approved . He also declares that he has not received a warrant for bounty land
uuder this or any other act of Congress, nor made any other application therefor.
(Signature of the claimant.)
OATH TO IDENTITY.
We, and , residents of , in the State of , upon our oaths, declare that the foregoing
declaration was signed and acknowledged by , in our presence, and that we know personally (or we'
believe, from the appearance and statements of the applicant, setting forth anj^ further grounds of belief
the witness may have) that he is the identical person he represents himself to be. '
(Signatures of witnesses.)
MAGISTRATE'S CERTIFICATE.
The foregoing declaration and affidavit were sworn to and subscribed before me on the day and year
above written; and I certify that I know the affiants to be credible persons; that the claimant is the
person he represents himself to he [or, that I believe, from the appearance and statements of th« claimant,
and from the facts that ] (set forth the grounds of belief that he is the person he represents himself
to be), and that I have no interest, direct or indirect, in the prosecution of this claim.
(Signature of magistrate.)
certificate of official character and signature.
State of \„„
County of /
I , clerk of the Court, a court of record of said county, do hereby certify that , the
person subscribing the foregoing certificate and affidavit, and before whom the same was made, was, on
the day of , 18 — , therein mentioned, a in and for said county, duly authorized to ad-
minister oaths and afflrmations for general purposes, and that I am well acquainted with the handwriting
■of the said — , and verily believe that the name of , subscribed to the said certificate, is his
proper and genuine signature.
In TESTIMONY VTHEREOF, I have hereunto set my hand,
and affixed the seal of said court, this day
of , 18—. , Clerk of Court.
{Seal of court.)
APPLICATION FOR A SECOND W^ARRANT.
[Proceed as in Application for Bounty Land, to (A), and add.] And that he has heretofore made
application for bounty land under the act of September 28, 1850 (or other act, as the case may be) , and
received a land" warrant, No. , for acres.
He makes this declaration for the purpose of obtaining the additional bounty land to which he may
be entitled under the act approved the 3d day of March, 1855. He also declares that he has never applied
lor nor received, under this or any other act of Congress, any bounty land-warrant except the one above
mentioned. ,„. ,
(Signature of the claunant )
976 THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
IV; Agreements and Contracts.
An agreement is a promise to fulfill whatever may be stipulated in the writing.
A contract is an agreement to perform certain aqts. A breach of contract entitles
the party aggrieved to remedy and damages at law, and if fraud is proved, to criminal
damages.
If there is no loss from breach of contract, the plaintiff is entitled to nominal
damages and costs.
Failure to deliver property according to contract entitles the plaintiff to the
value of the property at the time and place at which it should have been delivered.
The damages recoverable on conti-act to deliver goods on demand is their value at
the time of the demand.
If land is not conveyed according to covenant, the plaintiff is entitled to the
value of the land at the time it was to have been conveyed.
In the case of loss of goods by a common carrier (railway company, express, etc. ),
the damage would be the wholesale price of the articles at the place of delivery, less
the freight.
In all agreements and contracts the agreement or matter between the parties
must be specifically stated, whether it is something to do or to pay, whether in labor,
money or otherwise.
A GENERAL FORM OF AGREEMENT.
This Agreement, made this day of , one thousand eight hundred and , between John
Doe, of the of , in the county of and State of , of the first part, and Eichard Eoe, of the
of , in the county of , State of , of the second p-art, witnesseth : That the said John Dee,
in consideration of the covenants on the part of the party of the second part hereinafter contained, doth
covenant and agree to and with the said Richard Koe, that ; and the said Kichard Koe, in considera-
tion of the covenants on the part of the party of the first part, doth covenant and agree to and with the
said John Doe, that
In Witness Whereof, we have hereunto set our hands and seals, the day and year first above written.
Signed, sealed and delivered in presence of ■> JOHIf DOE, [seal.]
Philip Prim, [
James Johns.) RICHAKD KOE, [seal.]
AGREEMENT FOR THE SALE OF A HORSE.
This Agreement, made this day of , in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred
and . between John Doe, party of the first party, and Kichard Eoe, party of the second part, wit-
nesseth : That the said John Doe hereby agrees to sell to the said Kichard Koe, his horse, with a
white star in the forehead, and black mane and tail, and to warrant the said horse to be well broken, to
■ be kind and gentle, both under the saddle and in single and double harness, to be sound in every res-
pect and free from vice, for the sum of dollars, to be paid by the said Kichard Koe, on the day of
uext.
In consideration whereof, the said Kichard Roe agrees to purchase the said horse, aiyl to pay there-
for to the said John Doe the sum of dollars, on the day of next
In Witness Whereof, we have hereunto set our bands and seals the day and year first above written.
Signed, sealed and delivered in presence of -> JOH]!f DOE, [seal.]
Philip Prim,
■■}
S.J
James Johns.) KICHARD ROE. [seal.]
LAW, COMMEJKUAL AND OTIIEK FORMS. 977
AGREEMENT FOR WARRANTY DEED.
Articles of Agreement, made this day of in the year of our Lord one thousand eight
hundred and , between , party of the first part, and , party of the second part, witnesseth :
That said party of the first part liereby coveuauts and agrees, that if the party of tlie second part shall
first nialie the payment and perform the covenants hereinafter mentioned on part, to be made and
performed, the said party of the first part will convey and assure to the party of the second part, in fee
simple, clear of all incumbrances whatever, by a good and sufficient warranty deed, the following lot,
piece, or parcel of ground, viz. : Aud the said party of the second part hereby covenants and
agrees to pay to said party of the first part, the sum of dollars, in the manner following : dollars,
cash iu hand paid, the receipt whereof is hereby acknowledged, and the balance with interest at
the rate of per centum per annum, payalsle annually, on the whole sum remaining from time to
time unpaid, and to pay all taxes, assessments, or impositions that may be legally levied or imposed
upon said land, subsequent to the year IS — And in case of the failure of the said parly of the second
part to make either of the payments, or perform any of the covenants on part hereby made and
entered into, this contract shall, at the option of the party of the first part, be forfeited and determined,
and the party of the second part shall forfeit all payments made by on this contract, and such pay-
ments shall be retained by the said party of the first part in full satisfaction and in liquidation of all
damages by sustained, and shall have the right to re-enter and take possession of the premises
aforesaid.
It is mutually agreed that all the covenants and agreements herein contained, shall extend to aud be
obligatory upon the heirs, executois, administratcn-s and assigns of the respective parties.
In "Witness Whereof. The parties to these presents have hereunto set their hands and seals the day
and year first above written.
Signed, sealed and delivered in presence of [Signature.] [Seal.]
[Signature.] [Seal.]
V. 'Warranty-Deed.
This Indenture, made this day of , in the year one thousand eight huundred and ,
between , of the city of . and State of , merchant, and , his wife, of the first part, and ,
of , in the said county, farmer, of the second part, WITNESSETH, that the said parties of the first part,
in consideration of the sum of dollars, lawful money of the United States, to them in hand paid by the
said party of the second part, at or before the ensealing and delivery of these presents, the receipt whereof
is hereby acknowledged, and the said party of the second part, his executors and administrators, forever
released and discharged from the same, by these presents, have granted, bargained, sold, aliened,
remised, released, conveyed and confirmed, and by these presents do grant, bargain, sell, alien,
remise, release, convey and confirm unto the said party of the second part, and to his heirs and assigns,
forever, all \_here insert description'] together with all and singular the tenements, hereditaments and appur-
tenances thereunto belonging or in any wise appertaining; and the reversion and reversions, remainder
and remainders, rents, issues and profits thereof; and also all the estate, right, title, interest, dower and
rio-ht of dower-, property, possession, claim aud demand whatsoever, both in law and in equity, of the
said parties of the first part, of, in and to the above-granted premises and every part and parcel thereof,
with the appurtenances. To have and. to hold the above mentioned and described premises, with the
appurtenances and every part thereof, to the said party of the second part, his heirs and assigns, forever.
And the said and his heirs, the above-described and hereby granted and released premises, and every
part and parcel thereof, ivith the appurtenances, unto the said party of the second part, his heirs and
assigns, against the said parties of the first part, and their heirs, and against all and every person and
persons whomsoever, la^\'fully claiming or to claim the same or any part thereof, shall and will warrant,
and by these presents forever defend.
In WITNESS whereof, the said parties of the first part have hereunto set their hands and seals the
day and year first above written.
Sio-ned, sealed and delivered in presence of
° [Signature of witness.'] [Signatures and seals.]
"VVe o-ive this warranty deed to show the general form, so that the reader may be
62
978 THE HOJIE AXD FARM MANUAL.
familiar with such papers. All important documents should be drawn up by a lawyer,
magistrate or notary public, when the amount is considerable.
VI. Mortgage of Personal Property.
In mortgaging personal property all goods and chattels should be named. If
there are too many for the printed form, then say " goods and chattels mentioned in
the schedule hereto annexed." The form for mortgage of personal property is as
follows :
FORM OF CHATTEL MORTGAGE.
1 , of , in consideration of dollars to me paid by- —of , convey to the said
the following personal property to- wit : and now ia the , in the town of aforesaid.
To hold the aforegranted goods and chattels, to the said and his assigns forever.
And I covenant, that I am the lawful owner of said goods and chattels, and have good right to dis-
pose of the same in the manner aforesaid.
Provided, nevertheless, that if the said pay to the said or his assigns the sum of dollars
in from date, with interest on said sum at the rate of per cent per annum, payable , then this
deed, as also a certain note of even date with these' presents, given by said to said or order, to
■pay the said sum and interest at the times aforesaid, shall be void.
In Witness ^Vhereof, I hereto set my hand and seal, this day of , in the year of our Lord
one thousand eight huudreil and
Executed and delivered in presence of [seal.]
CHATTEL mortgage, 'WITH POWER OF SALE.
Know All Men by These Presents, That I , of , in the county of , and State of ,
in consideration of dollars, to me paid by of the town of in the count}- of and State of
, the receipt whereof is hereby acknowledged, do hereby grant, bargain and sell unto the said .•
and his assigns, forever, the following goods and chattels, to-wit :
To Have and to Hold, All and singular, the said goods and chattels unto the mortgagee herein,
and his assigns, to their sole use and behoof forever. And the mortgagor herein, for himself and for
his heirs, executors and administrators, does hereby covenant to and with the said mortgagee and his
assigns, that said mortgagor is lawfully possessed of the said goods and chattels, as of his own property ;
that the same are free from all incumbrances, and that he will warrant and defend the same to him, the
said mortgagee and his assigns, against the lawful claims and demands of all persons.
Provided, Nevertheless, that if the said mortgagor shall pay to the mortgagee, on the da}-
of in the year the sum of dollars, then this mortgage is to be void, otherwise to remain in full
force and effect.
And Provided Further, that until default be made by the said mortgagor in the performance of
the condition aforesaid, it shall and may be lawful for him to retain the possession of the said goods and
chattels, and to use and enjoy the same; but if the same or any part thereof shall be attached or
claimed by any other person or persons at any time before payment, or the said mortgagor, or any per-
son or persons whatever, upon any pretence, shall attempt to cany off, conceal, make waj"^ with, sell, or
in any manner dispose of the same or any part thereof, without the authoritj^ and permission of the said
mortgagee or his executors, administi-ators or assigns, in writing expressed, then it shall and may be
lawful for the said mortgagee, ^^^th or without assistance, or his agent or attorney, or his executors,
administrators or assigns, to take possession of said goods and chattels, by entering upon any premises
wherever the same may be, whether in this County or State, or elsewhere, to and for the use of said
mortgagee or his assigns. And if the moneys hereby secured, or the matters to be done or performed,
as above specified, are not duly paid, done or performed at the time and according to the conditions
above set forth, then the said mortgagee, or his attorney or agent, or his executors, administratois or
assigns, may by virtue hereof, and without any suit or process, immediately enter and take possession
LAW, COMMERCIAL AND OTHER FORMS. 979
of said goods and chattels, and sell and dispose of the same at public or private sale, and after satisfy-
ing the amount due, and all expenses, the surplus, if any remain, shall he paid over to said mortgagor
or his assigns. The exhibition of this mortgage shall be sufficient proof that any person claiming to
act for the mortgagee, is duly made, constituted and appointed agent and attorney to do whatever is
above authorized.
In Witness Whereof, The said mortgagor has hereunto set his hand and seal this day of .
in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and
Executed and delivered in presence of
[SEAL.]
[SEAL.]
State of \
County. ;^^-
This mortgage was acknowledged befoi-e me, by (the mortgagor), this day of A. D. IS —
The mortgagor is the person who borrows money on the mortgage. The mort-
gagee is the person who lends it.
VII. Bills of Sale.
In giving bills of sale every article is to be specified, and warranties of every
kind are to be inserted, as to kind, quality, etc.
BILL OP SALE OF PERSONAL PEOPEBTY.
Know All Men By These Presents, That I , in the County of , for and in consider-
ation of the sum of to in hand well and truly paid, at or before signing, sealing, and delivery of
these presents. bj'' , the reqeipt whereof I, the said- , do hereby acknowledge, have granted, bar-
gained, and sold, and by these presents do grant, bargain, and sellTunto the said , the following-
articles of personal property, to wit :
To Have and to Hold the said granted and bargained goods and chattels, unto the said heirs,
executors, administrators and assigns, to only proper use, benefit, and behoof forever, and the
said does vouch himself to be the true and lawful owner of the goods and effects hereby sold, and to
have in himself full power, good right, and lawful authority to dispose of the said in manner as
aforesaid, and T do, for myself, my heirs, executors and administrators, hereby covenant and agree to
warrant and defend the title of said goods and chattels hereby sold unto the said heirs, executors,
and administrators.
Executed and delivered in the presence of
[Si&NATURE.] [Seal.]
BILL OF SALE WITH WARRANTY.
I, , in consideration of dollars to me paid before the delivery hereof by of , the receipt
whereof is hereby acknowledged, have sold, and by these presents do convey to said and his assigns,
the following articles of personal property : , And I hereby agree with said to warrant and
defend the title of said goods and chattels hereby sold, to him and his assigns against all and every
person. And I hereby warrant the said to be in perfect condition. (Add any other warranty as to
quality or otherwise as may be desired.).
Witness my hand this day of , A. D. 18 .
Executed and delivered in presence of (Signature) (Seal.)
VIII. Certificates, Releases and Discharges.
A CERTIFICATE for work or labor must be recorded. The following is the form.
If the oath is objected to the person may affirm :
MECHANIC'S certificate.
I ^ of , hereby claim a lien upon the estate situated (here describe the premises) ; to secure
payment of dollars and — cents, for wages due me, after deducting all just credits, for work done
O'^n THE HOME AXD FARM IIA^XAL.
and performed iu building (if there has been altering, repaii-ing, or fm-nishing materials, etc., state them)
said premises, according to the following bill :
(Here insert the bill.)
, of , is owner of said premises, and , of , the contractor, underwhjui the work
wiis performed.
(Signature.)
State of .1„ TO
County of , ; '*• • ' ■^*~-
Personally appeared the above named , and made oath (or aflBrmed) that the foregoing certifi-
cate by him subscribed is true.
Before me,
, Justice of the Peace.
RELEASE AXD DISCHAEGE OF A ilECHAXIC'S LIEN.
I DO HEREBY CERTIFV, That a Certain mechanic's lien, tiled iu the office of the clerk of the
county of , the day of . one thousand eight hundred and . at o'clock in the
noon, in favor of— — claimant against the building and lot, situated side of street, and
known as Xo. , in said street, whereof is owner, and is contractor, is discharged.
(Signature.)
ss. On the day of , one thousand eight hundred and , before me came , who is
knowu to me to be the individual described iu. and who executed the above certificate, and acknowl-
edged that he executed the same.
(Signature.) (Seal.)
IX. Powers of Attorney.
A POA^'ER of attorney must name the person making the power, the person named
as attorney, and must prescribe the specific things to be done and the revocations
must state the same. The form is as follows:
POWER OF attorney. SHORT FORM.
Know all Men by These Presents. That I , have made, constituted, and appointed, and
by these presents do make, constitute, and appoint . my true and lawful attoruey, for me and in my
name, place, and stead to . giving and gi'anting unto my said attorney full power and authcnitj' to do
and perform all and every act and thing whatsoever requisite and necessary to be done in and about the
premises, as fully, to all intents and purposes, as I might or could do if personally present, with full
power of substitution and revocation; hereby ratifying and confli-miug all that my said attorney or his
substitute shall lawfully do or cause to be done by virtue thereof.
In \Vitness Whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, ihe day of in the year one
thousand eight hundred and .
Executed and delivered in the presence of (Signature.) (Seal.)
PROXY, OR POWER OF ATTORNEY TO VOTE.
Know all Men by these Presents. That I, , of . do hereby appoint to be my sub-
stitute and proxy *or me, and in my name and behalf to vote at auy election of directore or other oflicerei
and at any meeting of the stockholders of the , as fully as 1 might or could were I personally
present.
In Witness Whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, this day of 18
Witnesses present,) (Signature.) (Seal.)
X. Revocation of Power of Attorney.
Whereas. I, of the of in the county of and State of , by my certain power of
attorney, bearing date the day of , in the year one thousand eight hundred and , did appoint
LAW, COMMERCIAL AND OTHER FORMS.
981
, of the , my true and lawful attorney, for me and in my name, to (here set out what he was
authorized to do, using the precise language of the power of attorney originally given him), as by the
said power of attorney, reference thei'euuto being had, will more fully appear:
Therefore, know all Men by these Presents, That I , aforesaid, have countermanded
and revoked, and by these presents do countermand and revoke the said power of attorney and all
power and authority therebj"^ given to the said
In Witness Whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, this rday of , one thousand
eight hundred and
Sealed and delivered in presence of
[Signature.] [Seal J
XI. Proxy, Revoking all Previous Proxies.
Know all Men by these Presents, That I, the undersigned, stockholder in the do hereby
appoint my true and lawful attoi-ney, with power of substitution, for me and in my name to vote
at the meeting of the stockholders in said company, to be held at , or at any adjoui-nnient thereof,
with all the powers I should possess if personally present, hereby revoking all previous proxies.
18
{Witness.) [Signature.]
CHAPTER ni.
TABLES OP WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
I. TABLES OF "WEIGHTS. IL THE METRIC SYSTEM. III. THE METKIC SYSTEM COMPARED WITH OUE
o^^■^". — ^iv. tables relating to money. — v. fokeign exchange. — yi. specific gravity.
Vn. E.^RTHS AXD SOILS. VUI. COHESION OF MATERLVLS. IX. STRENGTH OF COMMON
HOPES. X. HUMAN FORCE. XI. HEAT AND ITS EFFECTS. XII. CAPACITY OF SOILS FOR
HEAT Xm. RADIATING POWER, ABSORPTION AND EVAPORATION. XIV. TEMPERATURES
REQUIRED BY PLANTS. XV. TEMPERATURES OF GERMIXATION. XVI. CONTRASTS BETWEEN
ANIMAL AND PLANT LIFE. ^XVH. THERMOMETERS. XVIU. DIMENSIONS ANT) CONTENTS OF
FIELDS, GR-VNARIES, CORN-CRIBS, ETC. XTX. R:\INF^UX IN THE UNITED STATES. XX. FORCE
AND VELOCITY. XXI. WEIGHT OF AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS.
I. Tables of "Weights.
the dawn of our modern civilization we find many odd weights and measures,
indicating a notable want of scales or implements. For many of these, rather
fantastic origins have been given. "We know that Charlemagne, when Emperor
of what was nearly the whole known world, finding in every country arbitrary
measures of distance, struck his huge foot to earth, and ordered that its length
should be the sole standard for the world. For the rest the following are the accepted
legends: It is thus said that'the English standard, the "grain," was originally
derived from the average weight of a grain of barley. The inch was determined from
the length of three barley corns, round and dry. The weight of the English penny,
by act of Henry IH., in 1266, was to be equal to that of thirty-two grains of "wheat,
taken from the middle of the ear and well dried. Among the nations of the East,
we have the "finger's length," from that of the digit, or second joint of the fore-
finger, the finger's breadth, the palm, the hand, the span, the cubit or length of the
fore-arm, the stretch of the arms, length of the foot, the step or pace, the stone,
pack, etc.
Below we give a table showing these measures, now only used for especial
purposes :
A sack of wool is 22 stone, 14 pounds to the stone, or 308 pounds.
A pack of wool Is 17 stone 2 pounds, or 240 pounds, considered a pack-load for a hoi-se.
A truss of hay is, new, 60 pounds; old, 50 pounds; straw, 40 pounds.
A load of hay is 36 trusses; a bale of hay is 300 pounds; a hale of cotton, 400 pounds; a sack of Sea
IsLand cotton, 300 pounds.
In England, a firkin of butter is 56 pounds. In the United States, a flrkin of butter is 50 pounds.
Double firkins, 100 pounds.
1 96 pounds make a barrel of llour.
200 " '■ •' beef, pork or fish.
280 " •' " salt.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
983
A fathom is 6 feet; 8S0 fathoms, 1 mile. A ship's cable is a chain, 120 fathoms, oi- 720 feet long.
A hair's breadth is one forty-eighth part of an inch.
A knot, or geographical mile is one-sixtieth of a degree; 3 knots make a marine league; 60 knots,
or 693^ statute miles, 1 degree.
The following tables are generally recognized:
3 inches
4 "
'6 ' "
18
DISTANCE.
make 1 palm. 21.8 inches
" 1 hand. 2>^ feet .
" 1 span. 3 " .
" 1 cubit. 3.28 " .
make 1 Bible cubit.
" 1 military pace.
" 1 common pace.
" 1 metre.
WEIGHT.
3 pounds make 1 stone butcher's meat.
7 " "1 clove.
2 cloves " 1 stone common articles.
2 stone " 1 tod of wool.
e}4 tods .
2 weys .
12 sacks .
240 pounds
2% inches .
4 nails .
4 quarters
3
2 quarts .
2 bushels .
2 strikes .
2 cooms .
CLOTH MEASURE.
make 1 nail.- • 5 quarters
" 1 quarter. 6
" 1 yard. 4-^^ "
" 1 Flemish ell.
BKY
MEASURE.
make 1 pottle.
5 quarters
" 1 strike.
3 bushels
1 coom.
36 "
" 1 quarter.
make 1 wey of wool.
" 1 sack "
" 1 last "
" 1 pack
make 1 English ell.
1 French ell.
" 1 Scotch ell.
make 1 load.
" 1 sack.
" 1 chaldron.
•wine measure.
18 United States gallons . make 1 runlet. 63 United States gallons . make 1 hogshead.
25 English gallons, or 1 ,, ^ ^^^^^^ 2 hogsheads "1 pipe.
42 United States gallons J ' ' 2 pipes "1 tun.
2 tierces . . ... "1 puncheon. 7>^ English gallons ... " 1 firkin of beer.
521^ English gallons ... "1 hogshead. 4 fii-kins "1 barrel.
II. The Metric System.
English Standards. — England and America yet hold to their old measures of
weight, length, area and volume. These were taken as they were found, but have
been definitely fixed. For example, there is a brass rod kept in one of the public
offices in London, which, at the temperature of 62 degrees Fahr., gives, between
two gold studs, the legal yard. For fear this might, in time, be lost, a commission,
appointed for the purpose, has given the following formula for its recovery: " The
length of a pendulum vibrating seconds, in vacuo, on the level of the sea in London
is, when the thermometer stands at 62° Fahr., 39.13929 inches." The French metre is
39.37079 inches, The standard pound is also fixed by a brazen weight kept at the
same place, and in case of loss, can be thus recovered: " The weight of a cubic inch
of distilled water, at 62° Fahr., is 252.724 grains."
984 THE HOME AXD FARM 5IANUAL.
The Metre Explained. — ^In France, all this has been simplified, and a decimal
system of weights and measures adopted. This is an enormc us advantage to any
people, and, as we have the decimal system in our money, so should we have it for all
purposes. The French have taken for their standard, the metre, or the 1-10,000,000
part of the quadrant of the meredian of Paris, as measured by Delambre and Mechain:
1. The Metre, the unit of length, is the basis of all the other metric measures.
2. The Are, the unit of land measure, is the square of ten metres.
3. The Litre, the unit of measure of capacity, hoth liquid and dry, is the cuhe of the tenth* part of
a, metre.
4. The Stere, the unit of solid or cubic measure, is equal to one cubic metre.
5. The Gram, the unit of measures of weights, is the weight, in vacuo of the quantity of distilled
water at a certain temperature which would be contained in a vessel whose inside measure equals a cubic
centimetie.
6. The Franc, the unit of meti-ic money, is equal to 19.3 cents, and weighs five grains.
Multiples of Metric Measure. — The multiples are taken from the Greek, and
are: deka, or ten; hecto, hundred, and kilo, a thousand.
Sub-Multiples. — These are from the Latin, and are: deci, a tenth; centi, hun-
dredth, and milli, thousandth. Thus with the metre, we sjiould have : The metre
equals 1 metre ; decametre equals 10 metres ; hectometre equals 100 metres, and
kilometre equals 1,000 metres. Reversing this we should reduce the metre thus by
sub-multiples. The metre equals 1 ; decimetre equals one-tenth of a metre ; centi-
metre equals one hundredth of a metre, and millimetre equals one thousandth of a
metre. The same system of enumerations applies to the others, as litre, decalitre
and decilitre. The stere is a cubic metre, and the litre a cubic decimetre. The gram,
would, raised by ten, be 1 decagram, and divided by ten, be 1 decigram. In money
no multiplying prefixes are used : e. g. the tenth of a frank is the decime, etc.
Abbreviations. — The following are the metric terms and the abbreviations,
representing the several terms :
Kilogram or kilo, K. or Kg. Milligram, Mg.
KUometre, .... . . Km. Millimetre, Mm.
Litre, . . . • . L. Stere, St.
Metre M. Etc.
III. The Metric System Compared With Our Own.
LONG MEASURE — ENGLISH.
3 lines make 1 inch. 5% yards make 1 rod or polo.
12 inches make 1 foot. 40 rods make 1 furlong.
3 feet make 1 yard. 3 furlongs 1 mile.
COMPAKATrVE
SCALE.
[LK.
FTTEI-ONG. ROD.
YAKD.
FEET.
INCH.
1
equals S equal 320 equal
1760 equal
5280 equal
63360
1 " 40
220
660
7920
1
oV^ '■
16>^ "
198
1
3
1
36
12
TABLES OF "WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
985
LONG- MEASURE — METEIC.
1 millimetre, equals
10 millimetres equals 1 centimetre, "
10 ceatimetres
10 (leoimetres
10 metres
10 decametres
10 hectometres
10 kilometres
1 decimetre,
1 metre, . .
1 decametre,
1 hectometre,
1 kilometre,
1 myriametre,
•\-
0.039 inch.
0.3937 "
3.937 inches.
39.37 "
32.80 feet.
32S.01 "
3,280.10 "
6.2137 miles.
CLOTH MEASUKE.
This is by the same standard as long measure, thus:
2 sixteenths . . . equal 1 eighth. 2 quarters equal 1 half.
2 eighths .... "1 quarter. 4 quarters "1 yard.
25 links
make 1 rod.
SUBVEYOE'S LONG MEASURE.
4 rods . . make 1 chain.
80 chains
. make 1 mile.
144 square inches
9 " feet .
301^ " yards
SQUARE MEASURE
make 1 square foot.
" 1 " yard.
" 1 " rod
40 square rods make 1 rood, or quarter acre.
4 roods . " 1 acre.
640 acres . . ■' Isquai-emile or section.
SURVEYORS' SQUARE MEASURE.
625 square links make 1 square rod, . . sq. rd. 640 acres makes 1 square mile,
16
10
rods
chains
chain,
sq. ch.
36 square miles (six miles square) make
1 township, ...
sq. mi
COMPARATIVE SCALE.
A. E. KODS.
1 equals 4 equal 160
I '' 40
1
SQUARE YARDS.
equal
4,840
1,210
30 Ji
1
equal
SQUAKE FEET.
43,560
10,890
272)^
9
1
equal
SQUAKE INCH.
6,272,640
1,568,160
39,204
1,296
144
METRIC SQUARE MEASURE AND EQUIVALENTS.
1 square centimetre equals 1.155 square inches.
100 square centimetres equal 1 square decimetre
100 square decimetres " 1 square metre (centare)
100 centares
100 ares
00 hectares
1 square mile
1 square acre
1 square rood
1 square rood
1 square yard
1 square foot
1 square inch
1 are
1 hectare . . .
1 square kilometre
Tp
115.50 square inches.
1.196 square yards.
119.6 square yards.
2.471 acres.
3.861 square miles.
258.99 hectares.
40.47 ares.
10.12 ares.
25.29 square metres.
0.836 square metre.
.093 square metre.
6.45 square centimetre.
1186
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
CUBIC
OK
SOLID
MEASURE.
1728
cubic inches
. .
27
cubic feet
.
40
cubic feet of round timber
or-i
50
cubic feet of hewn timber
8
cubic feet
16
cord feet or i
cubic feet /
128
• •
24^ cubic feet
. . .
make 1 cubic foot.
" 1 cubic yard.
" 1 ton or load.
•' 1 cord foot.
1 cord of wood.
1 perch of stone, or masonry.
METRIC CUBIC MEASURE AND EQUIVALENTS
1000 cubic centimetres equal 1 cubic decimetre or litre . . equal
1000 cubic decimetres
1 cubic foot
1 cubic inch , .
1 cubic metre or stere
0.308 cubic foot.
1.308 cubic yards.
28,315.31 cubic centimetres.
16.386 cubic centimetres.
ENGLISH AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS.
{
1 cubic inch
equals
16.387 cubic centimetres.
1 litre
iqi
1 cubic foot
1 cubic yard
1 cord
t4
f 28.34 litres.
1 .0283 steres.
.76531 steres.
3.6281 steres.
1 hecto-
litre
1 kilo-
u
1 fluid ounce
1 gallon
1 bushel
11
.02958 litres.
3.7S6 litres.
35.24 litres.
litre
1 cubic
metre
1 stere
■ e
DRY
MEASURE.
- equal -
1.0567 quarts, liquid meas.
.928 quart, dry measure.
2.837 bushels, dry measure.
26.417 gallons, liquid meas.
35.316 cubic feet.
1.308 cubic yards.
264.17 gallons, liquid meas.
.2759 cord.
The standard is the Winchester bushel, which contains 2150.42 cubic inches, or 77.627 lbs. avoirdu-
pois of distilled water at its maximum 'density. Its dimensions are 1S)4 inches diameter inside, 19)^
inches outside, and 8 inches deep.
TABLE OF DRY MEASURE.
2 pints (pt.)
8 quarts .
make 1 quart (qt.)
" 1 peck (pk.)
4 pecks .
36 bushels
make 1 bushel (bu.)
■' 1 chaldron (cald.)
equals
BU.
36
1
COMPARATIVE SCALE.
PKS.
equal
144
4
1
equal
QTS.
1152
32
equal
PTS.
2304
64
10
2
METRIC DRY MEASURE AND EQUIVALENTS.
1 millilitre or cubic centimetre equals 0.061 cubic inch.
10 mUlilitres or cubic centimeti-es equal 1 centiliti-e, equals 0.6102 cubic inch.
10 centilitres equal 1 -decilitre, equals 6.1022 cubic inches.
10 decilitres equal 1 litre, equals 0.908 quart.
10 litres equal 1 decalitre, equals 9.08 quarts.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
987
10 decaliti-es eijual 1 hectolitre, equals, 2 bushels, 3.35 pecks.
10 hectoliti-es equal 1 kiloliti-e or cubic metre, equals 1.308 cubic yard.
1 bushel equals 35.237 litres.
1 peck equals 8.809 litres.
1 quart equals 1.101 litre.
LIQUID OR WINE MEASURE
The wine gallon, English and American, are the same. The beer, the ale or beer
gallon of the United States contains 4.62 litres metric.
gills make 1 pint,
pints " 1 quart .
4 quarts " 1 gallon,
pt.
qt.
gal.
31^^ gallons make 1 barrel, . .
2 barrels i , - , , ,
63 gallons I "^'^'"^'^"S'^^^'^
bbl.
hh.
HOGSHEAD.
COMPAEATIVE SCALE.
GALLONS. QUARTS.
equals
equal
63 equal
311^ "
1
252
126
4
1
equal
504
252
8
2
1
equal
GILLS.
2016
1008
32
LIQUID MEASURE — APOTHECARIES.
60 minims 1 fluid drachm.
8 fluid drachms ... 1 fluid ounce.
16 fluid ounces .... 1 fluid pint.
8 pints 1 gallon.
Dry and liquid measures are computed alike by the metric tables. The equi-
valents are :
METRIC LIQUID MEASURE AND EQUIVALENTS.
1 millilitre equals 0.27
1 centilitre
1 decilitre . . . .
1 litre
1 decalitre
1 hectolitre . . .
1 kilolitre
1 imperial gallon . .
fluid dram.
0.338 fluid ounce.
0.845 gill.
1.0567 quart.
2 6417 gallons.
26.417 gallons.
264.17 gallons.
4.543 litres.
1 U. S. gallon
1 quart . . .
1 pint . . .
1 gill . .
1 fluid ounce .
1 fluid dram .
1 minim . .
equals 3.785 litres.
0.946 litre.
" L.473 litre.
" 0.118 litre.
" 29.57 cubic centimetres.
" 3.69 cubic centimetres.
" 0.0616 cubic centimetres^
Avoirdupois Weight. — The ounce and pound avoirdupois differ in weight from
those of the same denomination in Troy and Apothecaries' weight, though the Troy
grain and Apothecaries' grain are the same. Troy weights are used in weighing
precious metals and stones — Apothecaries' weight in preparing medicines.
AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT.
16 drams (dr.) equal
16 ounces "
25 pounds "
4 quarters "
20 hundredweight "
100 pounds "
1 ounce, . . oz.
1 pound, lb.
1 quarter, qr.
1 hundredweight, cwt.
1 ton, t.
1 cental, c.
988
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
TON. HIWDREDWIIIGHT.
1 equals 20 equal
1
SCALE OF COMPARISON
QUARTER.
1 milligram
10 milligrams .
10 centigrams .
10 decigrams .
10 grams . . .
10 decagrams .
10 hectograms .
10 kilograms
10 myriagrams
10 quintals . .
equal
POUND.
2,000
100
25
1
equal
1 centigram
1 decigram
1 gram
decagram
hectogram
kilogram or kilo
myriagram
quintal . .
tonneau
equal
METRIC AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT.
OUNCE.
DKAM.
32,000 equal
512,U00
,000 "
25,600
400 "
6,400
16 "
256
1
16
equals 0.0154 grain.
0.1543 "
1M32 "
" 15.432 grains.
" 0.3527 ounce.
" 3.5274 ounces.
" 2.2046 pounds.
" 22.046
220.46
■' 2204.6 "
COMPARISON :
1 ton (2,000 lbs.) .
1 hundred-weight .
1 pound .
equals 907.18 kilos.
" 45.36 '■
" 0.454 kilo.
1 onuce
1 dram
equals 28.35 grams.
" 1.772 gram.
TROY WEIGHT.
24 grains (gr.) make 1 pennyweight, dwt.
20 pennyweights " 1 ounce, . . oz.
12 ounces make 1 poimd, .... lb.
3^ grains " 1 carat (diamond wt.) , k.
COMPARISON :
POUND.
OUNCES. PENNYWEIGHTS.
CHAINS,
1
equals
12 equal 240
1 " 20
1
equal
5760
480
24
Ik.
a
3^
1 pound
1 ounce.
METRIC EQUIVALENTS.
equals 373.24 grams. 1 pennyweight
" 31.102 " 1 grain . . .
equals 1.55 gram.
" 0.065 "
APOTHECARIES' WEtGHT.
20 grains (gr.) make 1 scruple, . . sc. 8 drams . . make 1 ounce, . . oz.
3 scruples . " 1 dram . . dr. 12 ounces . • "1 pound, . . lb.
COMPARISON.
equal
12
1
equal
96
equal
SCRUPLES.
288
24
3
1
equal
CHAINS.
5760
480
60
20
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMEXSIOXS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
989
METRIC EQUIVALENTS..
1 pound
1 ouDce .
1 dram .
equals 373.24 grams.
31.102 ••
" 3.88
1 scruple equals 1.29 gram.
1 grain " 06
COMPAEATIVE TABLES OK MEASURES AND WEIGHTS OP OAPAOITT.
1 gallon or 4 quarts wine measure . . .... . contains 231 oubic inches.
^2 peck or 4 quarts dry measure . . . '■ 268.8 cubic inches.
1 gallon or 4 quarts beer measure . ... . . . '■ 282 cubic inches.
1 bushel di-y measure ....... . ■■ 2150J^ cubic inches.
1 United States bushel ... " 2150.42 cubic inches.
1 English bushel . '• 2218.19 cubic inches.
1 United States gallon .... " 231 cubic inches.
1 English gallon . . '• 277.26 cubic inches.
1 French litre ........ . . " 61.533 cubic inches
1 United States pound troy . . equals 5760 grains troy.
1 English pound troy . . . ■• 5760 grains troy.
1 pound apothecaries' . . . . • " .")760 grains troy.
1 United States or EnglLsh pound avoirdupois " 7000 grains troy.
144 pounds avoh-dupois ... " 17.'5 pounds troy.
1 French gram . . .... . ... " 15.433 grains troy.
1 United States or English yard ■• 36 inches.
1 French metre ■'■ 39.368 inches.
1 French are •' 119.664 square yards.
IV. Tables Relating to Money.
Monet of the United States is computed by the decimal system, as follows:
10 mills (m.) 1 cent, ct.
10 cents 1 dime, d.
10 dimes 1 dollar, §
10 dollars 1 eagle E
100 mills.
1000 mills 100 cents.
10000 mills 1000 cents 100 dimes.
1 eagle (gold) weighs 258 troy grains.
1 dollar (silver) " 412.5 troy grains.
1 cent (copper) " 168 troy grains
23.2 grains of pure gold equal §1.00.
FEENCH, AMERICAN AND ENGLISH MONEY COMPAKED.
The following table will show the relative values. The franc, dollar and pouncl
sterlino- being the units in the several countries.
equal
FKANCS.
DOLLARS.
POUNDS STEELING.
1
equal
0.1930
equal
0,03968
5
0.9648
0.19840
5.1826
1
0.2056
25.913
5
1.0280
25.20
4.863
1
126
24.315
5
SHILLINGS.
PENCE
0.7936
equal
9.523
3.968
47.61
4.11
49
20.56
247
20
240
100
1200
990
THE HOME AND FAKM MANUAL.
V. Foreign Exchange.
The valae of the standard coins of foreign countries is given in the following
table :
COnNTRY.
Monetary Unit.
Standard.
Value in
U.S.
Money.
Standard Coin.
Austria, . . .
Belgium, . . .
Bolivia, . . .
JBrazll, ....
British Possessions
inN.A.f . .
•Central America,
■Chili, ....
Denmark, . .
Ecuador, . . .
Egypt, . .
France, . . .
Great Britain, .
Greece, ...
■German Empire, ,
India,
Italy, .....
Japan,
Liberia, , . .
Mexico, ....
Netherlands, . .
Norway, . . ,
Peru,
Portugal, . . . ,
Kussia, ....
Sandwich Islands, .
Spain,
Sweden, . . . ,
Switzerland, .
Tripoli, . . . ,
Turkey, . . . ,
United States of
Colombia, . . ,
Florin,
Franc,
Boliviano,
Milreis of 1000 reis, . .
Dollar,
Peso,
Peso, .... . .
Crown,
Peso, .
Pound of 100 Piasters, .
Franc,
Pound sterling, . . .
Drachma,
Mark,
Rupee of 16 annas, . .
Lira, .... . .
Yen (gold), . . . .
Dollar, . . . . .
Dollar,
Florin,
Crown,
Sol,
Milreis of 1000 reis, . .
Rouble of 100 copecks, .
Dollar,
Peseta of 100 centimes, .
Crown,
Franc, .;....
Mahbub of 20 piasters, .
Piaster,
Peso,
Silver,. . . .
Gold and silver,
Silver, . . .
Gold
Gold, . .
Silver, . . .
Gold, . . .
Gold, . , .
Silver, . . .
Gold, . . .
Gold and silver,
Gold, . . . .
Gold and silver.
Gold, . . .
Silver, ....
Gold and silver.
Gold and silver.
Gold, . . .
Silver, ....
Gold and silver.
Gold, . .
Silver, ....
Gold, .. . . .
Silver, ....
Gold, . . . .
Gold and silver.
Gold, . . .
Gold and silver.
Silver, ....
Gold, . . . .
.413
.193
.836
.545
1.00
.836
.912
.836
4.974
.193
4.866%
.193
.238
.397
.193
.997
1.00
.909
.402
.268
.836
1.08
.00
.193
.268
.193
.748
.044
Silver, .
5, 10 and 20 francs.
Boliviano.
Peso.
Condor, doubloon and escudo.
10 and 20 crowns.
Peso.
5, 10, 25 and 50 piasters.
5, 10 and 20 francs.
J^ sovereign and sovereign.
5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 drachmas.
5, 10 and 20 marks.
5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 lire.
1, 2, 5, 10 and 20 yen.
Peso or dollar, 5, 10, 25 and 50 cen-
tavo.
10 and 20 crowns.
Sol.
2, 5 and 10 milreis.
J^, y^ and 1 rouble.
5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 pesetas.
10 and 20 crowns.
5, 10 and 20 francs.
25, 50, 100, 250 and 500 piasters.
Peso.
VI. Speciflo Gravity.
SPECIFIC GKAVITY OF METALS.
NAME.
SP. grav.
NAME.
SP. GRAV.
Antimony
Arsenic " . .
Bismuth . .
6.712
5.763
9.823
7.820
8.700
8.788 "
8.878
19.258
17.486
15.709
Iron, cast
Iron, bars
7.207
7.778
11.352
Brass . . .
Bronze . .
Mercm-y
Nickel
13.598
8.275
Copper . .
Platinum
22.06fi
Copper Wire
Gold, pure .
Gold. 22 carat
Gold, 20 cai-at
Silver .
Steel . .
Tin
Zinc
.10.477
7.!=33
7.291
6.861
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF KOCK AND EAKTH.
991
NAME.
SP. GKAV.
NAME.
SP. GKAV.
Alabaster ....
2.730
Emory
4.000
Amber .
1.078
Flint ....
2.590
Asbestos
3.073
Glass . . .
2.930
Borax .
1.714
Granite .
2.625
Brick .
1.900 '
1 Grindstone
2.143
€halk .
2.784
Gypsum .
2.1G8
•Charcoal
.441
Ivory . . .
.'
1.822
Coral .
.
2.700
Limestone . .
3.180
Coal, bitummous .
1.270
Lime, quick .
. . : .804
Coal, anthracite
1.556
Manganese
7.000
Diauciond ....
3.521
Marble, parian
2.838
SPECIFIC GRAVITY OP THOROUGHLY DRY WOOD.
Apple . . .
Alder . .
Ash . . .
Beech . . .
Box . . .
-Campeachy .
■Cherry . . .
Cocoa . . .
•Cork . . .
■Cypress . .
Ebony . . .
Elder . . .
Elm ....
Fir, yellow .
Fir, white. .
Lignum -vitae
Live Oak . .
.793
.800
.845
.852
1.231
.913
.715
1.040
.240
.644
1.331
.695
.671
.657
.669
1.333
1.120
Logwood
Manogany
Maple .
Mulberiy
Orange .
Pine, yellow
Pine, w]iite
Pear ...
Plum . .
Quince . .
Sassafras
Walnut .
Willow .
Yew ...
Hickory
Poplar .
Poplar, white
.919
1.063
.750
.896
.705
.660
.554
.661
.785
.705
.482
.671
.585
.798
.838
.383
.529
SPECIFIC GRAVITY OP MISCELLANEOUS ARTICLES.
Beeswax, .
Butter,
Honey,
Lard, . .
Milk, . .
Oil, linseed,
.96
.94
1.45
.94
1.03
Oil, whale,
Oil, turpentine.
Sea water.
Sugar, .
Tallow, . . •
Vinegar, . .
SP. GEAV.
.92
.87
1.02
1.60
.93
1.01 to 1.08
The specific gravity of a substance not aeriform is determined by its relative
weight to .an equal volume of distilled water at a temperature of 60 degrees Fahren-
heit, the barometer being 30 inches. To find the weight of a cubic foot of metal,
etc., remove the decimal "point representing the specific gravity three places to the
right and the result is the weight in ounces. To reduce to pounds, divide for precious
metals by twelve and all other substances by sixteen. Thus antimony's specific
gravity is 6.712. Weight 6,712 ounces per cubic foot; 6,712-^-16=419 pounds
8 ounces.
992
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
VII. Earth and Soils.
NAME OP EARTH.
Calcareous sand,
Silicious sand
Gypsum powder, ....
Sand}^ clay,
Loamy clay, .......
Stiff clay or brick earth, . . .
Pure gray clay, ....
Pipe clay,
Fine carbonate of lime (chalk) ,
Garden mold,
Arable soil, ... . .
Pine slaty marl,
2.722
2.653
2.331
2.601
2.581
2 560
2.553
2.440
2.468
2.332
2.401
2.631
WEIGHT OF A CUBIC
POOT, IN LBS.
113.6
111.3
91 9
97.8
88.5
80.3
75.2
47.9
53.7
68 7
84.5
112.0
141.3
136.1
127.6
129.7
124.1
119.6
115 8
102.1
103.5
102.7
119.1
140.3
WEIGHT OF VAEIOUS SUBSTANCES PEK CUBIC FOOT.
Air,
Cork,
Fir, ......
Tallow,
Distilled water, . .
ilahogany, . . . .
Oak,
Loose earth or sand,
Common soil, . .
Brick, . . . .
Strong soil, . . .
Clay,
POUNDS. NAME. POUNDS.
0.0753 Portland stone, 157.5
15 Clay and stones, 100
34.375 Crown glass, 180.75
59 Mason's work, 205
62.5 Cast iron, 450.45
66.4 Copper, 486.75
73.15 Steel, 489.8
95 Pure silver, 654.8
124 Lead, 709.5
125 Pure gold, 1203 625
127 Platina, 1218.75
135
BULK OF A TON OF DIFFERENT SUBSTANCES.
Twenty-three cubic feet of sand, eighteen cubic feet of earth, or seventeen cubic feet of clay, make
a ton. Eighteen cubic feet of gravel or earth before digging, make twenty-seven Cubic feet when dug;
or the bulk is increased as three to two.
VIII. Cohesion of Materials.
The force which binds similar particles together is called cohesion, and the meas-
ure of this cohesion is the strain which it will bear. The two following tables show
the pounds of force necessary to rend a prism an inch square, and the length of prism
necessary to tear it apart by its own weight.
WOODS.
Teak, . .
Oak, . .
Sycamore,
Beech,
Ash, . .
12.915
11,880
9,630
12,225
14,130
36,049
32,900
35,800
38,940
42,080
Elm, . . .
Memel fir, .
Norway fir,
Larch, . .
9,720
9,520
12,346
12,240
39,050
40.500
55,500
42,160
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
iMETALS.
1*93
Cast Steel,
Swedish malleable iron,
English,
Cast iron,
POUNDS. I FEET.
134,256
72,06i
55,872
19,096
39,455
19,740
19,740
6,110
Cast copiDer,
Yellow brass.
Cast tin.
Cast lead, .
19,072
17,958,
4,7:!6
1,824
5,093
5,180
1,496
348
METALS, THEIR GRAVITY AND MELTING POINTS.
NAMES OF METALS.
1. Gold, . .
2. Silver, .
3. Iron, . .
4. Copper, .
5. Mercury,
6. Lead, . .
7. Tin, . .
8. Antimony,
S. Bismuth,
10. Zinc, . .
1 1 . Arsenic, .
1-2. Cobalt, .
13. Platinum,
14. Nickel, .
15. Manganese,
16. Tungsten,
17. Tellurium,
18. Molybdenum,
19. Uranium,
20. Titanium,
SPECIFIC
GRAVITY.
19.25
10.47
7.78
8.89
13.56
11.35
7.29
6 70
9.80
7.00
5.88
8.53
20.98
8.27
6.85
17.60
611
7.40
9.00
5.30
MELTING POINTS.
Tahrenheit,
2016°
1873
/ 2800?
\ Smith's forge.
1996
—39
612
442
497
773
2810?
/ oxyhydrogen
\ blowT^ipe.
2810?
Smith's forge
620?
oxyhydrogen
blowpipe.
NAMES OF METALS.
SPECIFIC
GRAVITY.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
•Id.
27.
28
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
S9.
40.
41.
42.
Chromium, .
Columbium,
Palladium, .
Ehodium,
Iridium, .
Osmium,
Cerium, . .
Potassium, .
Sodium, .
Barium, . .
Strontium, .
Calcium,
Cadmium, .
Lithium,
Silicium,
Zirconium, .
Aluminum, .
Gluciuum, .
Yttrium,
Thorium,
Magnesium,
Vanadium, .
11.50
0.86
0.97
!.60
MELTING POINTS.
Fahrenheit.
oxyhydrogen
blovVpipe.
136
190
442
IX. Strength of Common Ropes.
The following shows the breaking weight and also the safe weight which may be
borne by common ropes :
ROPE.
One-eighth Inch diameter
One-fourth inch
One-half inch
One-inch
One and a fourth inch
One and a half inch
BREAKING WEIGHT.
78 lbs. .
314
. 1,250
. 5,000
. 7,500
. 12,500
BORNE WITH Safety.
. . 31 lbs.
. . 125
500
2,000
. . 3,000
. . 4,500
Experiments some years since by the British admiralty showed a wire rope two
inches in circumference to be as strong as a hemp rope five inches in circumference,
and either would bear seven tons just before breaking. A wire rope three inches in
circumference was equal to one of hemp eight inches, and bore thirteen tons. One
four inches in circumference was equal to hemp ten inches, and sustained twenty-one
tons We may add it is never safe to subject any rope or cable to more than half its
ultimate strength, even when entirely free from swaying. The larger the rope, the
63
994
THE HOJIE AXD FAKM MANUAL.
less it will bear in proportion. A hemp rope from half an inch to an inch in diam-
eter, will support 8,700 pounds for each square inch of section ; from one to three
inches in diameter, 6,800 pounds for each square inch; if from five to seven inches,
it will bear only 4,800 pounds per square inch. Manila rope will only bear about
one-half the strain that the best hemp ropevwill.
X. Human Force.
The proportional force between the human hands on the tool and the force
exerted by the tool are given respectively in the first and sfecond columns following:
HA>T>.
Drawing knife 100 pounds,
Large auger, ... 100 "
Screw-drivei-, one hand, 84 "
Bench vice handle, 72 '•
Windlass, one hand, 60 "
Handsaw, ... 36 "
Brace bit, 16 "
Button screw, thumb and finger, ... 14 •'
XI. Heat and Its Effects.
The following tables show various temperatures (Fahrenheit), and the effects of
heat on various substances :
TOOI,.
100 pounds
. about 800
. " 250 "
. " 1000
180 to 700 "
... 36
150 to 700 "
. 14 to 70
FUSING POINTS.
Gold . .
Silver . .
Copper . . .
Wrought iron
Cast iron .
Glass . .
Brass . - ,
DEGREES.
melts 2590
1250
" 2548
" 3980
" 3479
2377
" 1900
Antimony
Bismuth
Cadium .
Steel . .
Lead . .
Tin . .
Zinc . .
DEGREES.
melts 951
476
600
2500
504
424
740
TABLE OF HEATS.
DEGREES.
Furnace under steam boiler, ... . . 1100
Common fire, . 270
Iron bright red, in dark. ... ... 752
Iron red-hot, in twUight, • 884
Heat, cherry red, ... . 1500
Heat, bright red, 1860
Heat, white, 2900
Heat, visible by day, 1077
Heat of air.furnace, 3300
Heat of human blood, 98
Heat snow and salt, equal parts, . . .
Highest natural heat in sWide (Egypt) , 117
Greatest natural cold (bellw zero) 65
Greatest Artificial cold (below zero) , . .... 160
Ice melts 32
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, .DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
995
Water in vacuo . .
"Water in vacuum pan
Water in open air .
AIcoliol
Bromine ....
boils at
BOILING
POINTS.
98 deg.
Ether
. . boils at
95 deg.
' 114 "
Ether, nitrous . .
. .
57 "
212 "
Iodine
((
347 "
173 '•
Mercury ....
. .
602 "
145 "
Olive oil ....
u
600 "
Bromine Freezes at
Mercury — below zero . "
Oil anise "
FREEZING POINTS.
4 deg. Oil olive Freezes at 60 deg.
39 " Oil rose " 60 "
50 " Water " 32 "
Heating Power of Fuel. — The celebrated experiments of Marcus Bull, of
Philadelphia, showed that one cord of hickory wood and one ton of anthracite coal
were equal in heating power. The following is his table of quantities required for a
given amount of heat:
Hickory, • . . 4 cords. Pitch pine, ....... 9f cords.
White oak, 4% " White pine, 9^
Hard maple, Q% " Anthracite coal, 4 tons.
Soft maple, 7i
XII. Capacity of Soils for Heat.
Shubler, a learned German, heated a given quantity of soil to 145 degrees
Fahr., placed a thermometer in it and observed the time it required to cool down to 70
degrees, the atmospheric temperature being 31 degrees Fahr. The following table
gives the results of his experiments. The first column shows the time required for
cooling, the second the relative power of retaining heat — ^the relative capacity of soils
for holding heat being, sand, loam, clay and humus soils.
Lime sand, . . . Time of Cooling, 3 hours, 30 Minutes.
Quartz sand, .
Clay loam,
Clay plow land,
Heavy clay, .
Pure gray clay.
Garden earth,
Hurans, . .
The absorption of heat from the sun, with the thermometer at 77, was found by
Becquerel to be ( moist earth heats slowest because the heat is constantly being dissi-
pated in evaporating the moisture) as follows:
2
27
2
30
2
27
2
24
2
' 19
2
16
1
' 43
Capacity for Heat,
100
95.6
71.8
70.1
68.4
66.7
64.8
49.0
KINDS OF EARTH.
MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE, TOP LAYER.
Moist Eartli.
Dry Earth.
Degrees.
99.05
99.10
99.28
96.13
103.55
• 99.50
Degrees.
112 55
112.10
112.32
109.40
117.27
113.45
Calcai'eoui? earth, white,
Mold, blackish ^ray
99^ yards
" 1 acre
70 yards by 69>^ yards
■ ' 1 acre
220 feet by 198 feet . .
" 1 acre
440 feet by 99 feet . .
" 1 acre
110 feet by 369 feet . .
'• 1 acre
60 feet by 726 feet . .
" 1 acre.
120 feet by 363 feet . .
' 1 acre.
240 feet by 181 >i feet .
" 1 acre
200 feet by 108.9 feet .
'• >^acre.
100 feet by 145.2 feet .
■• J^ acre.
101 feet by 108.9 feet .
" 1^ acre.
25
25
25
25
25
2178
4356
6534
8712
10890
13068
1524G
17424
19603
21780
32670
3 848
43560
feet by 100 feet
feet by 110 feet
feet by 120 feet
feet by 1 25 feet
feet by 150 feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
square feet
mate .0574
" .0631
" .0688
" .0717
" .109
" .05
" .10
" .15
" .20
" .25
" .30
" .35
'• .40
" .45
'• .50
'• .75
" .80
•' 1.
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
acre,
aci'e.
acre,
acre,
acre.
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
999
Never make the mistake of supposing that square feet and feet square are the
same; one foot, yard, rod or mile, etc., square; or one square foot, yard, rod, mile,
etc., are the same, but when you leave the unit, the difference increases with the
square of the surface, thus:
FltACTIONS OF
AN ACRE.
SQUARE FEET.
FEET SQUARE.
FKACTIONS OF
AN ACRE.
SQUARE FEET.
FEET SQUARE.
1-lG
'A
2722>^
5445
10890
14520
52>^
104i„
120>2
1
2
21780
435B0
• 87120
147).,
208^4
295J^
Contents of Cribs. — In the ^Yest, and wherever dent corn is raised, three heap-
ing half-bushels are roughly estimated to make a bushel of shelled corn of fifty-six
pounds. In reality sixty-eight pounds of ears of sound dent corn, well dried in the
crib, will do so. Four heaping half-bushels of flint corn is roughly allowed for a
bushel. One rule for finding the contents is to multiply the length, breadth and
height together, in feet, to obtain the cubic feet; multiply this product by four, strike
off the right-hand figure, and the result will be shelled bushels, nearly. This is on
the basis of four half-bushels, per bushel, of shelled corn. •
For Dent Corn. — When the crib is flared both ways, multiply half the sum of
the bottom breadths in feet by the perpendicular height in feet, and the same again
by the length in feet; multiply the last product by .63 for heaped bushels of ears,
and by .42 for the number of bushels in shelled corn. This rule is based on the
generally accepted estimate that three heaped half-bushels of ears, or four even full,
form one of shelled corn.
Length, . .
10
135
11
149
12
162
13
175
14
189
15
202
16
216
18
243
20
270
22
297
24
324
26
351
28
378
30
Breadth in feet. 3
405
' ^Yi.
15S
173
189
205
221
23 «
258
284
315
347
37S
410
451
473
' 4 . .
180
198
216
234
252
270
288
324
360
396
432
468
504
540
' 4J^ .
203
223
243
263
283
304
324
365
405
446
448
527
567
608
5 . .
225
248
270
292
315
337
360
405
450
495
510
585
630
675
5)^ .
248
272
297
322
347
371
396
446
495
.545
594
644
693
743
6 . .
270
297
324
351
378
405
432
486
540
594
618
702
756
810
' 63^ .
293
822
351
380
410
439
468
527
585
644
702
761
819
.878
7 . .
.315
347
378
409
441
472
504
567
630
693
75G
819
882
945
8 . .
338
371
40 i
439
473
506
540
608
675
743
810
878
945
1013
3fiO
396
432
468
504
540
576
648
720
792
864
936
1008
1080
' 8>^
383
421
459
497
536
574
612
689
765
842
918
995
1071
1148
' 9 . .
405
446
486
526
567
607
648
729
810
891
972
1053
1134
121.1
' - 10 . .
450
495
540
585
589
675
720
810
900
990
1080
1170
1260
1350
' 11
495
545
594
643
693
742
792
891
990
10S9
1188
1287
1386
1485
' 12 . .
540
594
648
702
756
810
864
972
1080
1188
1296
1404
1512
1620
The above table is based on the supposition that the crib is ten feet high, that
the breadth is the average breadth, or, that half way from the bottom to the top, if
flared and on the basis of 3,840 cubic inches of ears to the bushel of shelled corn.
1000
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Then a crib five feet wide, ten feet high and thirty feet long will contain 675 bushels
of shelled corn. Look on the left side for the width of the crib and follow the line
along until you come under the length of the crib, and the number on that line will
be the bushels.
Contents of Granaries. — To find the contents of granaries, multiply length,
breadth and height together, to get the cubic feet. Divide this by 56, and multiply
by 45, and the result will be struck measure. The following table will give the
capacities of grain bins, etc., ten feet high.
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Bin
Width in leet.
6 feet
7 feet
8 feet
9 feet
10 feet
11 feet
12 feet
13 feet
M feet
15 feet
16 feet
20 feet
22 feet
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Long.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
Bush.
3 . . . .
145
169
192
217
241
265
289
313
338
362
386
482
530
4 .
193
225
257
2S9
321
354
386
418
450
482
514
643
708'
5 .
241
282
321
362
402
442
482
522
563
608
643
804
884
6 .
290
338
386
434
482
530
579
627
675
723
771
964
1060
7
338
394
450
500
.563
619
675
731
788
844
900
1125
1238
8 .
386
450
514
579
648
707
771
836
900
964
1029
1286
1414
9 .
434
507
579
651
723
796
868
940
1013
1085
1157
1446
1592
10
482
563
643
723
804
884
964
1045
1125
1205
1266
1607
1768
11
531
619
707
796
884
972
1061
1149
1238
1326
1414
1768
1944
12 .
579
675
771
868
964
1061
1157
1254
1350
1446
1542
1920
2122
The Standard Bushel. — A standard bushel is a measure eight inches deep
and eighteen and a half inches inside diameter, containing 2,150 cubic inches. The
heaped bushel requires six inches in the height of the cone above the top of the struck
bushel, and contains 2,748 cubic inches in all. From these figures may be calculated
the contents of cribs or granaries.
Contents of Cisterns. — Thirty-six inches of rain per year will yield seventy-
two barrels of water for each ten feet square (100 square feet) of roof. Thus a
30x40 barn may supply two barrels per day throughout the year. Hence in dry coun-
tries — that is, countries where heavy rains are succeeded by long droughts — the cisterns
must be larger than in those countries where rains are more constant, or, in coun-
tries having an average fall of water. When the water is to be used daily a 30x40
barn should have a cistern ten feet in diameter and nine feet deep; this will hold 168
barrels. But, if to be drawn from only in time of drought, it should be three times
this capacity.
To determine the contents of a circular cistern of equal size at top and bottom,
find the depth and diameter in inches ; square the diameter and multiply the square by j
the decimal .0034, which will find the quantity of gallons for one inch in depth.
Multiply this by the depth in inches, and divide by thirty-one and a half, and the
result will be the number of barrels the cistern will hold. The following table shows
the number of barrels of liquid the following diameters Will hold, for each twelve
inches in depth :
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
1001
5 feet diameter, capacity per foot, in depth, 4.66 barrels.
6 "
7 "
8 »
9 u u
10 " "
6.71
9.13
11.93
15.10
18.65
Contents of a Square Cistern. — To find the contents of a square cistern,
multiply the length by the breadth, and multiply the result by 1,728 and divide by
231. The result will be the number of gallons for each, foot in depth. The follow-
ing table shows the barrels for the sizes named for square cisterns :
5 feet by 5 feet has capacity per foot in depth of
6
7
8
9
10
6
7
8
9
10
5.92 barrels
. 8.54
11.63
15.19
19.39
23.74
XIX. Rainfall in the United States.
The following tables of rainfall will be valuable. They are: First, The rainfall
in some principal cities of the Atlantic seaboard and the Mississippi Valley; second,
that of the Pacific slope climates, and also the rainfall of principal points on the plains.
AMEEICAN ATLANTIC CLIMATES— INCHES OF KAIN.
Cincinnati,
Cleveland,
Ann Arbor,
Pittsburg, .
St. Louis, .
I^ashville, .
11.9
9.1
7.3
9.5
12.7
14.1
14.2
11.6
11.2
12.3
14.6
14.0
10.0
8.9
7.0
7.6
8.7
12.3
11.3
6.9
3.1
7.4
7.0
12.4
47.5
27 4
28.6
36.8
'42 5
52.8
AMERICAN PACIFIC
CLIMATES-
—INCHES OF RAIN.
STATIONS.
SPEING.
SUMMEK.
AUTUMN.
WIKTEK.
TOT.IL.
CALirOBNIA.
3.3
4.6
2.5
0.6
0.6.
0.1
0.7
0.1
6.6
5.6
3.2
3.7
1.6
4.9
1.2
6.9
8.8
5.5
0.3
1.0
13.5
San Francisco,
Los Angeles,
F,1 Pa CIO
17.8
9.7
NEW MEXICO.
12.4
8.4.
The following table gives the average precipitation of rain and snow reduced to
water, for the number of years mentioned above the proper column, in inches and
hundredths, at various places on the plains; also the average for each month in the
year; also altitude, latitude and longitude, as observed by officers of the United States
Government. It will be found valuable in many respects in agriculture, and especially
so as showing the average available water of the dry districts of the plains regions.
1002
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
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pa
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, • GRAVITY, ETC.
XX. Force and Velocity.
1003
Of the Wind.— According to Burnell's Hydraulic Enquirer, tlie velocity of the
wind and its pressure are as follows:
CHABACTEK OF WIND.
Velocity per
Second.
Effect per
Yard Square.
Light breeze, hardly perceptible,
Gentle breeze,
Light wiud,
Bather strong wind, best for sailing, .
Strong wind, . . . . , ■
Tery strong wind, . . ...
Tempest or storm, ... ...
Great storm, . ... . . .
Hurricane, .
Hurricane able to tear up trees, etc., etc.
Ft.
1
3
6
18
33
66
70
90
118
160
Pounds.
0.04989
0.197.n6
0.79130
6.06996
20.06690
80.26760
101.62790
146.34430
260.05670
406.51180
Of Water in Tile Drains. — An acre of land, in a wet time, contains about
1,000 spare hogsheads of water. An underdrain will carry off from a strip of land
about two rods wide, and one eighty rods long will drain an acre. The following
table will show the size of the tile required to drain an acre in two days .time, (the
longest admissible,) at different rates of descent; or the size for any larger area:
Diameter
of Bore.
Rate of
Descent.
inches, . . 1 loot in 100
inches 1 foot in 50
inches I foot in 20
Velocity
of current.
22 inches per second.
32 inches
Hogsheads
discha:
. . . . 51 inches
inches 1 foot in 10 . . . . 73 inches
inches 1 foot in 100 27 inches
inches 1 foot in 50 38 inches
inches 1 foot in 20 67 inches
inches. . . .1 foot in 10 84 inches
inches 1 foot in 100 32 Inches
inches 1 foot in 50 45 inches
inches 1 foot in 20 72 inches
inches. . . .1 foot in 10 . . . . 100 inches
400 in 24 hours.-
560
900
1290
1170
1640
3100
3600
2500
3500
5600
7800
red.
A deduction of one-third to one-half must be made for the roughness of the tile
or imperfection in laying. The drains must be of some length to give the water
velocitv, and these numbers do not, therefore, apply to very short drains, and in
computing capacity of tiles, the head and fall, is of fully as much an integer as the
size of the pipe.
Strength of Horses. — The following table from Tredgold shows the average
greatest velocity which a horse can travel, according to time consumed in travel :
Time of March in Hours 1 2 3 4
Greatest velocity per hour in miles 14.7 10.4 8.5 7.3
6.6 6.0
7
6.5
8 9
5.2 4.9
10
4.6
1004
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
PLOWING.
Breadth
Breadth
•
of Fur-
row- slice
Space Traveled
in plowing
Extent plowed per day.
of Fur-
row-slice
Space traveled
in plowing
Extent plowed per day.
or Culti-
an acre.
at the rate of
or culti-
an acre.
at the rate of
vator.
vator.
Inches.
Miles.
18 Miles. 1 16 Miles.
Acres.
Inches.
Miles.
18 Miles. 1 16 Miles.
Acres.
7
^iH
lii
IM
46
2 1-6
8K
7 2-5
8
-i^H.
1>^
IM
47
2 1-10
8
7 3-5
9
11
1 3-5
1>^
48
2 1-12
8M
8 9-10
1%.
10
9 9-10
1 4-5
1 3-0
49
2
7 9-10
11
9
2
1^-10
50
2
9 9-10
8 1-10
12
^H
2 1-5
51
1 9-10
9 1-5
%
13
1V2
2K
2 1-10
52
1 9-10
9>^
82-5
14
7
2>^
2K
53
1 9-10
9M
832
15
6>^
2^
2 2-5
54
1 4-5
9 4-5
8 9-10
16
6 1-6
2 9-10
2 3-5
55
1 4-5
10
8
17
5^
3 1-10 ^
2^
56
w^
lOii
9
18
5>^
3Ji
2 9-10
57
Wa
10 2-5
9 1-5
19
5K
3>^
3 1-10
58
1 7-10
10 3-5
9K
20
4 9-10
3 3-5
3K
69
1 7-10
]0^
9>a
21
4 7-10
3 4-5
3K
60
1 3-0
10 9-10
9 7-10
22
4K
4
3K
61
1 3-5
11 1-5
9 4-5
23
4^
4 1-5
3 7-10
62
1 3-5
UK
]0
24
4
4J^
3 9-10
63
1 3-5
nil
10 1-5
25
4
4>^
4
64
1>^
n 7-10
lOK
26
3 4-5
4?^
4 9-10
4 1-5
65
^Vz
11 4-5
10>|
27
3 3-5
4K
66
\%
12
10 3-5
28
3K
5K
4>^
67
i'A
12M
10 4-5
29
3>^
5>i
4 3-5
68
1)^
12 2-5
11
30
3M
^4.
4 4-5
69
1 2-5
12 3-5
nj^
31
3 1-5
5
5
70
1 2-5
12 9-10
UK
32
3 1-10
5 4-5
5K
71
1 2-5
\\%,
33
3
6
72
1 2-5
13K
11 3-5
34
2 9-10
6 1-5
5>^
73
IK
13K
11 4-5
35
2 4-5
6K
5 3-5
74
i>l
13>^
12
36
■^x
6>^
5 4-5
75
IK
13 3-0
12^
37
2%
634
6
76
1 3-10
13 4-5
12 '4
38
2 3-5
6 9-10
6M
77
1 3-10
14
12)^
39
21^
m
6K
78
IJi
14K
13 3-5
40
■2}l
7K
6>^
79
^H
14 2-5
12^
12 9-10
41
2 2-5
7%
6%
80
Wa.
14 3-5
42
2%
7
6 2-3
81
11-5
14%
13 1-10
43
2 3-10
7 4-5
7
82
1 1-5
15
!•%
44
2
8
7 1-10
83
1 ]-5
15J^
13 2-0
45
2 1-5
8 16
7>4
84
1 1-6
ISK
13 3-5
XXI. Weight of Agricultural Products, etc.
The following very complete table, as compiled by the well-known agriteultural
engineer, Gen. E. Waring, shows the weight of the bushel of agricultural products,
etc., as established by law in the United States, Territories, and British Provinces,
compared with the most recent enactments :
TABLES OF WEIGHTS, DIMENSIONS, STRENGTH, GRAVITY, ETC.
1005
1
O
§
O
4S
48
60
40
56
22
33
50
14
60
48
44
36
34
60
60
60
60
56
60
60
60
60
1
u
a
c
c
o
o
48
48
55
56
50
60
32
50
45
60
60
60
56
60
50
60
60
P
48
42
n6
72
60
42
32
60
56
60
60
56
60
m
o
g
3
48
20
52
46
80
56
70
48
24
33
.56
14
60
4.".
8
44
SO
38
32
57
60
55
56
55
55
60
60
48
50
46
*80
56
68
50
25
33
14
00
4.j
44
40
60
.50
60
60
1
48
20
30
52
46
80
56
70
24
33
56
14
60
45
45
45
44
80
33
57
32
60
4b
.56
130
60
60
ai
§
w
48
20
50
46
80
56
70
24
33
56
60
45
44
32
•J I
(lb
.-I'fi
60
60
B
48
20
52
56
50
56
14
60
•15
44
33i
57
56
56
60
00
03
a
"m
P
32
.56
32
32
60
6
48
is
50
56
•
60
30
:>2
60
60
56
60
50
60
64
■&
56
CD
m
s
u
CO
s
4S
48
56
50
32
52
60
56
60
c
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bo
'3
48
48
46
80
56
70
50
40
22
28
28
56
14
60
50
50
14
14
45
■
44
32
54
33
60
60
.■6
56
58
60
60
ci
o
fp
a
S
S
48
42
56
28
28
60
32
56
60
g
48
20
52
46
80
56
24
33
56
14
60
45
44
35
57
60
56
60
60
C3
To
g
€
48
20
52
46
80
56
70
50
24
33
56
14
60
60
85
45
8
44
80
30
34
57
25
32
60
60
50
56
55
60
60
fs
50
40
52
.32
54
60
o
en
(3
i
50
o'o
56
00
40
36
56
56
56
56
56
56
00
i4
o
1
48
48
58
55
60
44
32
60
60
56
60
62
03
O
V
cc
c3
;?
t52
58
30
3J
50
60
d
§
48
50
180
56
70
60
25
33
56
62
50
50
45
44
34
33
60
60
50
56
60
60
1
45
46
42
56
28
28
60
36
45
60
56
60
o:'
S
>
n
47
48
56
62
30
56
56
85
62
70
60
•a
1
50
50
50
50
50
60
50
50
50
•u-
§
>
48
46
56
60
42
30
60
56
60
60
'i
c
"^
45
45
42
50
50
2S
28
60
40
35
50
45
60
60
50
56
50
50
60
60
«
o
o
in
Apples, ....
Barley, ....
Bran,
Broom corn seed,
Buckwheat, . .
CaiTots
40
56
50
30
60
60
56
60
60
48
50
?6
65
64
•
30
60
56
60
48
42
Castor beans, . .
Coal, mineral, , .
Corn, shelled, . .
Corn, in ear, . .
Corn meal, . . .
Cranberries, . .
Dried apples, . .
Dried peaches.
Dried plums, . .
Flax seed, . . .
Grass seed, blue, .
" clover,
" Hungarian
" millet, .
" orchard, .
" red top, .
" timothy. .
Hair, plastering, .
Hemp seed, . .
Lime, unslacked.
Malt,
Mangel-wurzel, .
Oats,
Onions, ....
Onions, top, . .
Osage-orauge seed.
Parsnips, . . .
Pears, ....
Peas ....
52
32
56
28
28
56
60
46
32
Potatoes, Irish, .
Potatoes, sweet, .
Kutabaga, . . .
Rye,
Salt, coarse, . .
Salt, fine, . . .
Salt, ground, . .
Sand,
Sugar beets, . .
TurniDS.
54
60
56
Wlieat, ....
White beans, . .
60
60
* Mined within the State, 70 lbs. ; witliout the State, 80 lbs.
X Bituminous— Cannel coal, 70 lbs.
t I'oreign— Barley produced in the Province, iS lbs.
"Salt" in Canada is 56 pounds to the bushel; in Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Missouri
and Nebraska, it is 50 pounds to the bushel. In Michigan, "Michigan Salt" is 56 pounds to the bushel.
In Massachusetts, "Salt" is 70 pounds to the bushel.
Coal in Kentucky is 76 pounds per bushel, erccep* Wheeling coal, which is 84, and Kentucky Eiver,
which is 78 pounds per bushel, and Adrian Branch, or Cumberland JRiver coal, which is 72 pounds per
bushel. Cotton seed is 3J pounds to the bushel in Missouri.
Soro-hum seed is 30 pounds to the bushel in Iowa and Nebraska. Strained honey is 12 pounds to the
ealloa in Nebraska.
To reduce cubic feet to bushels, sti'uck measure, divide the cubic feet by 56 and multiply by 45.
CHAPTER IV
TABLES AND DIAGRAMS OP PRACTICAL VALUE.
SEEDS AXD PLANTS TO CROP AJ^l ACRE. II. VEGETABLE SEEDS TO SOW 100 TAKDS OP DRILLS. ^III.
PLASTS PER ACRE AT VARIOUS DISTANCES. TV. VITALITY OF SEEDS. V. PLANTS PER SQUARE
ROD OP GROUND. ^VI. FORETELLING THE WEATHER. VII. COMPARISON OF CROPS IN GREAT
BRITAIN AND THE UNITED STATES. \TZI. IMPROVED AND UNIMPROVED LANDS IN THE STATES
AND TERRITORIES. LX. FOREST AREAS— EUROPE AND L"NITED STATES. X. SURVEYED ANT)
APPROPRIATED LANDS IN STATES AND TERRITORIES. XI. TABLES OF NUTRITIVE EQUIVALENTS,
ETC. XII. TABLE SHOWING PRICES PER POUND. XHI. TABLE OP INTEREST AT SIX PER
CENT. XIV. GROWTH OP MONET AT INTEREST. XV. M^AN DLTIATION OP LIFE. XVI. MOR-
TALITY RATES XVn. HOW TO CALCULATE S-ALARIES AND WAGES. ^XVEII. THE EARTH'S AREA
AND POPULATION. XIX. THE WORLD'S COMMERCE. XX. PAY OP THE PRINCIPAL OFFICERS
OF THE UNITED STATES. ^XXI. PUBLIC DEBT OF THE UNITED STATES. XXH. THE UNITED
STATES AND TERRITORIES. ^XXIU. DIAGRAMS GIVING VALUABLE STATISTICS.
I. Seeds and Plants to Crop an Acre.
Asparagus in 12-inch drills, . . 16
Asparagus plants at 4xl}2 feet, 8000
Barley 2}i
Beans, Bush, in drills at 2}4 feet, 1>.^
Beans, pole, Lima, at 4x4 feet, . 20
Beans, Carolina, prolific, etc. at 4x3^ 10
Beets and mangolds in drills at 2}4 ft. 8
Broom corn In drills, .... 12
Cabbage, sown in outdoor beds, for
transplanting. ... . 10
Cabbage, sown in frames, ... 4
Can'ot, in drills at 2>^ feet, . . 3
Celery, seed, 8
Celery, plants, at 4}£ feet, . 25000
Clover, white Dutch, 12
Clover, Lucerne, 10
Clover, Alsike, 12
Clover, large red, with timothy, . 12
Clover, large red, without timothy, 16
Corn, sugar, 9
Corn, field, 7
Corn, salad, in drills at 10 inches,
large seed 25
Cucumber, in hiUs 2
Cucumber, in drills, . . . . 3
Egg-plants, plants 3x2 feet, . . 4
Endive, in drills at 2)4 feet, . . 3
quarts. Flax, broadcast, . .
Grass, timothy, with clover,
bushels. Grass, timothy, without clover,
bushels. Grass, orchard, ....
quarts. Grass, red top, or herds,
quarts. Grass, blue, . ...
pounds. Grass, rye,
pounds! Grass, millet, . . .
Hemp, broadcast, . . .
ounces. Kale, German greens, .
ounces. Lettuce, in rows at 2>^ feet,
pounds. Leek, in rows at 2)4 feet,
ounces. Lawn grass,
Melons, water, in hills 8x8 feet,
pounds. Melons, citron, in hills 4x4 feet,
pounds. Oats,
pounds. Okra, in drills 2>^xi^ feet, . .
pounds. Onion, In beds, for sets, . .
pounds. Onion, in rows, to make large bulbs,
quarts. Parsnip, in drills at 2)2 feet, .
quarts. Pepper, plants 23^x1 feet, . .
Pumpkin, in hills 8x8 feet, . .
pounds. Parsley, in drills at 2 feet, . .
quarts. Peas, in driUs, short varieties,
quarts. Peas, in drills, tall varieties, .
ounces. Peas, broadcast,
pounds. Potatoes
2
bushels.
6
quarts.
10
quaiis.
25
pounds
20
pounds.
28
pounds.
20
pounds
32
quarts.
11^ bushel.
3
pounds.
3
pounds.
3
pounds.
35
pounds
3
pounds.
2
pounds
2
bushels.
20
pounds
35
pounds
s, 5
pounds
5
pounds.
17500
2
quarts.
4
pounds
2
bushels
1 to 1)4 bushels
3
bushels
8
bushels
[1006]
TABLES AND DIAGRAMS OF PRACTICAL VALUE.
1007
Badish, in drills 2 feet, ....
Eye, broadcast,
Eye, drilted,
Salsify, in drills jit 2}o feet, . .
Spinach, broadcast,
Squasb, Bush, in hills 4x4 feet, .
Squash, running, in hills 8x8 feet.
Sorghum,
8
pounds.
2
bushels.
\}4 bushels.
10
pounds.
30
pounds.
3
pounds.
2
pounds.
4
quarts.
Turnips, in drills at 2 feet.
Turnips, broadcast, . . .
Tomatoes, in frame, . . .
Tomatoes, seed, in hills, 3x3
Tomatoes, plants, . . .
Wheat, in diills, ....
Wheat, broadcast, , . . .
II. Vegetable Seeds to Sow 100 Yards of Drill.
Asparagus, 8
Beans, Bush, 8
Beans, Lima, 3
Beans, pole, 1
Beet, 4
Broccoli, 3^
Brussels sprouts, . ... }„
Cabbage, . . 1
Carrot, . . 3
Cauliflower, %
Celery, 3
Collards. .
Corn,
Cress, . .
Cucumber,
Egg-plant,
Endive,
Leek, . .
y^
ounces. Lettuce, . . .
quarts. Melon, water, .
pints. Melon, citron,
pint. Mustard, . .
ounces. Okra, ....
ounce. Onions, for large bulbs,
ounce. Onions, for sets,
oun9e. Parsley, . . .
ounces. Peas, . .
ounce. Pepper, . . .
ounces. Puitipkin, .
ounce. Kadish, . ■ .
pint. Ehubarb, .
ounces. Salsify, . .
ounces. Spinach, .
ounce. Squash, . .
ounces. Tomato, . . .
ounces. Turnips,
2 pounds.
23^ pounds.
3 ounces.
8 ounces.
3800
13^ bushels.
2 bushels.
. 2
1
. 4
. 12
. 2
. 6
. 2
. 3
. 2
. 6
. I
. 4
. 6
3
]
. 3
ounces,
ounces,
ounce,
ounces,
ounces,
ounces,
ounces,
ounces,
quarts.
i^ ounce,
ounces,
ounces,
ounces,
ounces,
ounces,
ounces,
ounce,
ounces.
\
These quotations are far too large to stand, but you must have more thaii enough
in order to provide for contingencies.
TABLES OF CIRCULAR MEASURE, TIME AND LONGITUDE.
CIKCULAB MEASUKE.
MEASUKES OF TIME.
60 seconds,
60 minutes,
360 degrees.
80 degrees,
12 signs,
360 degi-ees, the circumfer
1 minute.
1 degree,
1 circle.
1 sign of zodiac.
1 zodiac circle,
ence of the earth.
24,899 statute miles, circumference of the earth at
the equator.
69.124 statute miles, 1 degree of the equator.
1.1527 statute miles, 1 geographic mile.
60 geographic miles, 1 degree.
LONGITUDE AND TIME COMPARED
60 seconds, .
60 minutes, . .
24 hours, ...
7 days, ......
28 days, . .
28, 29, 30 or 31 days,
12 calendar months, .
365.25 days, . . . .
866 days, . . . .
1 minute.
1 hour.
1 day.
1 week.
1 lunar month.
1 calendar month.
1 year.
1 common year.
1 leap year.
LONGITUDE. TIME.
1 second, ... 0666 second.
1 minute, 4 seconds.
15 minutes, 1 minute.
Add difference of time for places east and subtract for places west, of the given place
LONGITUDE TIME
1 degree, - . 4 minutes.
360 degrees, 1 day.
1008
THE HOME AlO) FAEM MANUAL.
III. Plants Per Acre at Various Distances.
The following table shows the number of plants required per acre, for the given
feet and inches :
Ft. In.
Ft.
In.
Plants.
Ft. In. Ft.
In.
Plants.
Ft. In.
Ft.
In.
Plants.
Ft.
In.
Ft.
In.
Plants.
1 bv 1
43360
3 6 by 2
3
5531
4 9 by
1
9170
6
by 5
1452
1 3 '
' 1
34848
" .. 2
6
4978
L. Li
1
3
7336
" 5
6
1320
■ 1
3
27878
" '• 2
9
4525
(. [•
1
6
6113
" 5
9
1262
1 6 •
• 1
29040
" " 3
4148
ii a
1
9
5248
" 6
1210
((
■ 1
3
23232
'• " 3
3
3829
a k.
2
4585
6
6
" 1
6701
I
' 1
6
19369
•' " 3
6
3555
a fct
2
3
4075
" 1
6
4467
1 9 '
' 1
24454
3 9 " 1
14616
li a
2
6
3668
' 2
3350
it i
' 1
3
19913
u li 1
3
9272
H li
2
9
3334
" 2
6
2680
.> L
• , 1
6
16594
" " 1
6
7744
• • bk
3
3056
' 3
2233
.> I
' 1
9
14223
ti ''1
9
6637
'"' '*
3
3
2821
' 3
6
1914
2 '
• ]
21780
" '- 2
5808
a i,f.
3
6
2620
' 4
1675
1
3
17424
" " 2
3
5162
(( FAKM MAXUAL.
Percentage in Farms. — ^In the following table, the first column shows the per-
oentaste of areas in farms ; the second column the area of forest :
UsiTED States.
Percentage
ia f anns.
Total
percentage
forest.
TJsrrED States.
Percentage
in fanns.
Tiital
percentage
forest.
Maine,
38.1
46.9 1
Michigan,
40.7
47.1
Xew Hampshire,
,
29
37.2 1
Indiana, .
,
39.6
34 8
Vermont, . . .
30.6
36.5
Illinois . .
19.6
16.9
Massachusetts, .
25. S
29.2
Wisconsin, .
29.3
20.9
Khode Island, .
33.7
24.2
Minnesota, .
20.6
17.1
Connecticut,
24.4
21.2
Iowa, . .
,
16.2
14.1
Xew York, . .
25.5
27.6
Missouri, . .
.
41.3
45.4
X^ew Jei-sey, . .
24
28.1
Kansas. . .
11.2
5.6
Pennsylvania, .
31.9
38.9
Nebraska,
10.2
5.2
Delaware,
28
29.2
California,
4.1
7.9
Maryland, . .
31.8
38.4
Oregon, . .
31.8
25.2
Virginia, . . .
45.7
49.4
Nevada, . .
.
6.4
5
North Carolina,
60.6
64.2
Colorado,
,
3.5
10
South Carolina,
53.2
60.6
Georgia, . . .
.=>4.6
60.2
TERRrrOEIES.
Florida, . . .
60
56
60.6
50.6
63.5
65.9
Utah,
0.1
12.7
44.8
10
New Mexico,
AVashington,
6
Mississippi, . .
33 »
Louisiana, . .
56.9
59.1
Dakota
7.4
3
Texas
41.6
26.7
Montana, . . . ■
0.8
16
Arkansas.
51.4
55
5S
59.9
Idaho, ...
9.6
15
Tennessee, .
Arizona
6
West Virginia, .
51.1
54.9
Wyoming,
0.8
8
Kentucky,
48.9
31.7
49.1
28.4
Indian,
s
Ohio, ....
Alaska, .
■ •
30
X. Surveyed and Appropriated Lands in States and Territories.
states ajid Territories.
California,
Dakota Temtory. . .
Montana Territory, . .
Ne\\ Mexico Territory,
Arizona Territory, . .
Xevad.-i. ... . .
Colorado, . . .
Wyoming Territory,
Oregon, ....
Idaho Territory, . . ,
Utah Territory, . . .
Miuuesota. . . .
Kansa? ,
Xebraska. ...
Washington Territory, ,
Indian Territory,
Mi.->oiu-i, . . . . ,
Florida
Michigan, ....
Illinois,
Iowa,
Area in Acres.
Acres Surseyed.
Wisconsin.
Alabama,
Arkansas,
Mi--i-iil)pi.
Louisana,
Ohio, . .
120.947,840
96,596,128
92,016,640
77,568,640
72,906,240
71,737.600
66.880.000
62,645.068
60,975,300
o5.22S.l60
.54.065.042
5:!.459.840
52.04:3.520
4S.636.SO0
44,796.160
44,1.54.240
41,284.000
87,931.520
36.128,640
33,462,400
35,228,800
34,511,360
34,462,080
34,406,720
30.179,840
26,461,440
25,576,980
Acres
Appropriated.
38.805.776
13,863,913
6,784,481
5,486,185
3,135,753
8,198,194
15,683,086
4,748,841
15,255,617
4,014,953
5,984,792
35,897,912
■ 45,770,685
32.372,410
10,190,046
22,832,725
41,284,000
29.345,870
36,128,640
35,462.400
35,228.800
34.511.360
34,462.080
38.406,720
30,179.840
23,909,2.53
25,576,960
20.877 602
5,835,604
5,179,821
6,864,082
4,050,350
4,669,383
4,303,329
3,480,281
9,515,744
3,102,407
5,315,086
19,516,340
10.544,439
8,869,943
3,556,967
40,549*368
20,643,611
32,468,110
35.462,400
34,036,220
26,118,729
28,522.448
22,463.872
25.531.387
20.033.897
25,576,960
TABLES AND DIAGEAMS OF PEACTICAL VALUE.
XI. Tables of Nutritive Equivalents, etc.
1013
KINDS OF FOOD.
Oi-diiiary natural meadow hay, . .
Do. of flue quality, .... . .
Do. select, . .
Do. freed from \v00d3' stems, ....
Lucerne hay
Jied clover hay, second year's growth,
Ked clover cut in flower, green, do., .
Xew wheat straw, .
Old wheat straw,
Do. do. lower parts of the stalk, . . .
Do. do. upper parts of the stalk and ear,
New rye straw,
Old do.,
Oat straw,
Barley do.,
Pea do.,
Millet do., . . .
Buckwheat do.,
Drum cabbage,
.Swedish turnip^.
Turnip, ...
Field beet, ...
Do. white Silesian,
Carrots,
Jerusalem artichokes,
Do.,
Potatoes,
Field beans,
White peas,
JSTew Indian corn, . .
buckwheat,
Barley,
Barley-meal, .... ....
Wheat
Do. from highly manured soil, . . .
Uecent bran, . .
Wheat husk or chaff,
Linseed cake, .... ....
■Colza do., ...
Madia do., . . ... ...
Hemp do.,
Poppy do., ...
]Srut do., . . ... ...
Beech mast do ...
Arachis (Pindars) do.,
Standard
Nitrogen
Nitrogen
water per
per
per cent— not Standard.
cent.
cent — dry.
dried.
11.0
1.34
1.15 100
14.0
1.50
1.30
98
18.8
2.40
2.00
58
14.0
2.44
2.10
55
16.6
1.66
1.38
83
10.1
1.70
1.54
75
76.0
0.64 311
26.0
0.36
0.27
126
8.5
0.53
0.49
2S5
5.3
0.43
0.41
280
9.4
1.42
1.33
86
18.7
0.30
0.24
179
12.6
0.50
0.42
250
21.0
0.36
0.30
383
11.0
0.30
0.25
160
8.5
1.95
1.79
64
19.0
0.96
0.78
147
11.6
0.54
0.48
240
92.3
3.70
0.28
ill
91.0
1.83
0.17
S76
92.5
1.70
0.13
385
87.8
1.70
0.21
548
85.6
1.43
0.18 <
369
87.6
2.40
0.30
B82
79.2
1.60
0.30
348
75.5
2.20
0.42
274
65.9
1.50
0.36
319
7.9
5.50
5.11
8.6
4.20
3.84
18.0
2.00
1.64
12.5
2.40
2.10
13.2
2.02
1.76
13.0
2.46
2.14
10.5
2.33
2.09
16.6
3.18
2.65
37.1
2.18
1.36
7.6
0.94
0.85
13.4
6 00
5.20
10.5
5.50
4.92
6.5
5.93
5.51
5.0
4.78
4.21
6.8
5.70
5.36
6.0
5.59
5.24
6.2
3.53
3 31
6.6
8.89
8..33
Proximate Principles. — The following tables, after M. Payen, show the
amount of proximate principles of maize as compared with the other cereal grains :
100 PARTS OF
STARCH.
GLUTEN ANI>
OTHER AZO-
TIZED MATTER.
DEXTRINE,
GLUCOSE, ETC
FATTi:
MATTERS.
CELLULOSE,
MINERAL
MATTER AND
SALTS.
Wheat,
T?vp
58.12
65,65
65.43
60.54
67.r.5
89.15
22.75
13.50
13.96
14.38
12.50
7.05
9.50
12.00
10.00
9.25
4.00
1.00
2.61
2.15
2 76
5.50
8.80
.80
4.00
4.10
4,75
7.06
5.90
3.00
3.02
2.60
Barley, . .
Oats, . • .
Maize, • •
Bice, . • •
3.10
3.25
1.25
.90
1014
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
PKOXIMATB PKINCIPLES OF CLOVEK AND GKASS.
Green State.
Water
Starch
Wood fiber
Sugar
Albumen ......
Extractive matter and gum
Fatty matter
Phosphate of lime . . .
Or, economically:
Red
White
Clover.
Clover.
76.0
80.0
1.4
1.0
13.9
11.5
2.1
1.5
20
1.5
3.5
3.4
0.1
0.2
1.0
0.9
Lu-
cerne
75.0
2.2
14.3
0.8
1.9
4.4
0.6
0.8
Green State.
Water . . .
Flesh formers
Fat formers
Accessories .
Mineral Water
Bed
Clover.
76.0
2.0
3.6
17.4
1.0
White
Clover.
80.0
1.5
2.7
14.9
0.9
Lu-
75.0
1.9
3.6
18.7
0.8
Dry State.
Flesh formers .
Fat formers . .
Accessories . .
Mineral matter
Red
Clover.
22.55
44.00
24.00
9.45
Water
Flesh-producing or nitrogen-
ized substances ....
Fat-producing or non-nitro-
geuized substances . . .
Woody fiber
Ash
Grass
68.23
4.86
11.45
12.60
2.86
100.00
White
Clover.
18.76
40.00
30.00
11.25
Lu-
12.76
38.00
36.00
13.24
IVteadow Hay.
14.61
8.44
43.63
27.16
6.16
100.00
Nutritive Value of Various Foods. — The following table shows the nutri-
tive value of several substances. First, from analysis, or theoretically; and second,
according to the average of several different experiments; the figures giving the
quantity, in pounds, to be taken of each kind to be equal to any other.
COMPARATIVE VALUE OF FOODS BY ANALYSIS AND EXPERIMENT.
Good hay,
Eed clover hay (well
cured)
Eye straw,
Oat sti-aw,
Kuta-bagas,
Field beets,
Carrots,
Potatoes,
Value hy
Analysis.
Value hy
Experiment.
100
77
502
364
676
391
412
324
100
95
355
220
262
346
280
195
Beans, . . . .
Peas,
Indian coi'n, . .
Barley, . . . .
Kye,
Oats,
Bucliwheat, . . .
Wheat, . . . .
Linsseed oil-cake,
Value hy
Analysis.
29
30
70
65
58
60
74
47
22
Value hy
Experiment.
46
44
56
51
49
59
64
43
64
XII. Table Showing Prices per Pound.
Any commodity which is sold by the ton may be readily computed in smaller '
quantities by the table on opposite page. For example, if the price per ton is
$10, the price of 50 pounds will be twenty-five cents, and the price of 3,900
pounds will be $19.50. Any desired combination may be had by adding two or
more q\iantities together. The pounds are in the left-hand column, the price per
ton at the top of each column, and the price for given numbers of pounds opposite
the column of quantities.
TABLES AND DIAGRAMS OF PEACTICAL VALUE.
1015
o
d
i-l
§
CD
S
5
CD
00
8
8
§
8
8
8
8
8
§
8
8
w-
1— 1
I-H
1—1
rH
d
TP
CO
00
d
r-t
r^
CD
rH
00
rH
§
d
d
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d
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T;aL.
XIII. Table of Interest at Six Per Cent.
Ix fractions of half a cent or more, one cent is taken. K less, nothing is taken.
Where cents form part of the principal, if they amount to half a dollar, or upward,
the discount is taken as for a dollar; when less than half a doUar, they are dis-
regarded. The left-hand column shows the time, and the columns on the top of the
table show the amount. Under the column of amount and opposite the time column,
will be found the interest. To find the interest at any other rate, multiply the
interest found in the column by the desired rate of interest, and divide by 6. Thus,
$60, the interest of 11000 for one year, multiplied by 8, gives |480; divided by 6
gives $80, the interest of $1000 for one year at 8 per cent.
Time.
81
82
83
84
80
86
87
8S
89
810
820
830
840
050
$60
#70
§80
890
3100
01000
1 Day,
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
17
2 Days.
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
3
33
3 "
(i
1
2
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
50
4 ■■
1
9
3
3
4
5
5
6
7
67
5
1
1
2
3
3
4
5
6
7
8
8
83
6 ••
1
1
9
3
4
5
6
" 7
8
9
10
1 00
7 •
1
1
2
4
5
6
7
8
9
11
12
1 17
8 ••
1
1
1
3
4
5
7
8
9
11
12
13
1 33
9 '■
1
1
1
3
5
6
8
9
11
12
14
15
1 50
10 ■'
1
1
1
2
3
5
7
8
10
12
13
15
17
1 67
11 •'
1
1
1
i
2
4
6
7
9
11
13
15
17
18
1 83
12 "
1
1
1
2
2
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
2 00
13 •■
1
1
1
2
2
2
4
7
9
11
13
15
17
20
22
2 17
14 •'
J-
1
1
2
2
2
2
5
1
9
12
14
16
19
21
23
2 33
15 •■
1
1
2
2
2
2
3
5
8
10
13
15
18
20
23
25
2 50
16 •'
1
1
9
9
2
2
3
5
8
11
13
16
19
21
24
27
2 67
17 '■
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
6
9
11
14
17
20
23
26
28
2 83
18 -
]
2
2
2
2
3
3
6
9
12
15
18
21
24
27
30
3 00
19 ■•
1
2
2
2
3
3
3
6
10
13
16
19
22
25
29
32
3 17
20 ••
1
2
2
2
3 3
3
4
10
13
17
20
is
27
30
33
3 33
21 ■•
1
2
2
2
3 3
4
i
11
14
18
21
25
28
32
35
3 50
22 -
1
2
2
3
3 3
4
7
11
15
18
22
26
29
33
37
3 67
23 ■•
2
2
2
3
3 3
4
8
12
15
19
23
27
31
35
38
3 83
2i ■
2
2
9
3
3 i 4
4
8
12
16
20
24
28
32
36
40
400
25 ■
2
2
3
3
3 4
4
8
13
17
21
25
29
33
38
42
4 17
26 -
2
2
3
3
3 i 4
4
- 9
13
17
22
26
30
35
39
43
4 33
27 •■
2
2
3
3
4 4
5
9
14
18
23
27
32
36
41
45
4 50
28 •■
2
3
3
4 4
5
9
14
19
23
28
33
37
42
47
467
29 •
2
2
3
3
4 4
5
10
15
19
24
29
34
29
44
48
4 83
1 Mo.,
1
2
3
3
4
4 5
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
50
5 00
2 3[05..
1
3
4
5
6
7 ; 8 9
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
1 00
10 00
3 ■•
2
5
6'
8
9
11
12 14
15
30
45
60
75
90
1 05
1 20
1 35
1 50
15 00
4 •■
2
6
8 10
12
14
16 18
20
40
60
80
1 00
1 20
1 40
1 60
1 SO
2 00
20 00
5 "
3
8
10 113
15
18
20 23
25
50
75
1 00
1 25
1 50
1 75
2 00
2 25
2 50
25 00
6 •'
3
6
9
12 hn
18
21
24 27
30
60
90
1 20
1 50
1 80
2 10
2 40
2 70
3 00
30 00
7 ■'
4
7
11
14 |l8
21
25
28 32
35
70
1 05
1 40
175
2 10
2 45
2 80
3 15
3 50
35 00
8 "
4
8
12
16 ,20
24
28
32 36
40
80
1 20
1 60
2 00
2 40
2 80
3 20
3 60
4 00
40 00
9 •■
5
9
14
IS
2H
27
32
36 41
45
90
1 35
1 80
2 25
2 70
3 15
3 60
4 05
4 50
45 00
10 •'
5
10
16
20
25
30
35
40 45
50
1 00
1 50
2 00
2 50
3 00
3 50'
4 00
4 50
5 00
50 00
11 "
6
U
17
22
28
■V3
39
44 50
55
1 10
1 65
2 20
■2 75
3 30
3 85
4 40
4 95
5 50
55 00
1 Tear.
fi
12
18
24
30
36
42 |48 54
60
1 20
1 80
2 40
3 00
3 60
4 20
4 80
5 40
6 00
60 00
TABLES AND DIAGEAMS OF PRACTICAL VALUE.
1017
XIV. Growth of Money at Interest.
As properly following the interest table, we give two companion tables, one
showing the growth of one dollar for 100 years, at various rates of interest, the
interest being annually added to the principal. It will be seen that one dollar invested
for 100 years at 24 per cent would about cancel the national debt. The other shows
the value of daily savings, at compound interest. It will be seen that the insignificant
sum of 2^ cents per day amounts to $10 per year, and if this sum is saved daily
from the age of twenty-one years to the age of seventy, the snug sum of $2,900 is
reached. Fifty-five cents a day saved, in ten years reaches $2,600 ; money enough
to buy a snug home, or an eighty-acre farm.
GROWTH or MONET AT COMPOUND INTEEEST.
One dollar, 100 years at 1 per
One dollar, 100 years at 2
One dollar, 100 years at 3
One dollar, 100 years at 4
One dollar, 100 years at 5
One dollar, 100 years at 6
One dollar, 100 years at 7
One dollar, 100 years at 8
One dollar, 100 years at 9
One dollar, 100 years at 10
One dollar, 100 years at 12
One dollar, 100 years at 15
One aoUar, 100 years at 18
One dollar, 100 years at 24
cent, $
2^
50>^
1311^
340
2,203
5,513
13,809
84,675
1,174.405
15,145,000
2,551,799,404
DAILY SAVINGS AT COMPOUND INTEREST.
Cents per Day. Per Year. Ten Years. Fifty Years.
2^
514
11
273^
55
$1.10
1.37
$ 10
20
40
100
200
400
500
J 130
260
520
1,300
2,600
5,200
6,500
J 2,900
5,800
11,600
29,000
58,000
116,000
145,000
By the above table it appears that if a mechanic
or clerk saves '1^ cents per day from the time he is
twenty-one until he is seventy, the total with
interest will amount to $2,900, and a dailj' saving
of 27)o cents reaches the important sum of $29,000.
XV. Mean Duration of Life.
Compara-
Carlisle
Northamp-
Compara-
Carlisle
Northarap-
Compara-
Carlisle
Noi'tluinip-
tive age.
Experience.
Experience.
tive age.
Experience.
Experienee.
tive age.
Experience.
' Experience.
38.72
25.18
27
36.41
29.82
54
18.28
16.06
1
44.68
32.74
28
35.69
29.30
55
17.58
15.58
2
47.55
37.79
29
35.00
28.79
56
16.89
15.10
3
49.82
39.55
30
34.34
28.27
57
16.21
14.63
4
50.76
40.58
31
33.68
27.76
58
15.55
14.15
5
51.25
40.84
32
33.03
27.24
59
14.92
13.68
6
51.17
41.07
33
32.36
2G.72
60
14.34
13.21
7
50.80
41.03
34
31.68
26.20
61
13.82
12.75
8
50.24
40.79
35
31.00
25.68
62
13.31
12.28
9
49.57
40.36
36
30.32
25.16
63
12.81
11.81
10
48.82
39.78
37
29.64
24.64
64
12.30
11.35
11
48.04
39.14
38
28.96
24.12
65
11.79
10.88
12
47.27
38.49
39
28.28
23.60
66
11.27
10.42 "
13
46.51
37.83
40
27.61
23.08
67
10.75
9.96
14
45.75
37.17
41
26.97
22.56
68
10.23
9.50
15 •
45.00
36.51
42
26.34
22.04
69
9.70
9.05
16
44.27
35.85
43
25.71
21.54
70
9.18
8.60
17
43.57
35.20
44
25.09
21.03
71
8.65
8.17
18
42.89
34.58
45
24.46
20.52
72
8.16
7.74
19
42.17
33.99
46
23.82
20.02
73
7.72
7.33
20
41.46
33.43
47
23.17
19.51
74
7.33
6.92
21
40.75
32.90
48
22.50
19.00
75
7.01
6.54
22
40.04
32.39
49
21.81
18.49
76
6.69
6.18
23
39.31
31.38
50
21.11
17.99
77
6.40
5.83
24
38.59
31.36
51
20.39
17.50
78
6.12
5.48
25
37.86
30.85
52
19.68
17:02-
79
5.80
5.11
26
37.14
30.33
53
18.97
16.54
SO
5.51
4.75
1018
THE HOME AXD FAKM MAXUAL.
Either the Carlisle or Northampton tables are approved standards, and admitted
by the 'courts as a basis for computing the value for life-estates, or losses resulting
from injury in suits to recover damages. In the West, the Carhsle tables seem to be
in favor: in the East and South, the Northampton tables are used. The Carlisle
show the probable lease of life at birth to be 38.72 years; at 80 years, 5.51 years.
AVe give on preceding page a table of probabilities from birth to eighty years.
XVI. Mortality Rates.
The following figures are from the Carlisle tables showing the annual average
deaths and the number aUve in 10,000 individuals from birth up to the age of 104:
years. Thus 1,539 persons out of every 10,000 die the first year after birth and
8,4(31 are left; at 104 only one is left, and that year this person dies :
AtBirth-l 10000
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
IS
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
8461
7779
7274
6998
6797
6676
6594
6536
6493
6460
6431
6400
6:i68
6335
6300
6261
6219
6176
6133
6090
6047
6005
5963
5921
5879
5836
1539
Bf;2
505
276
201
121
82
58
43
33
29
31
32
33
35
39
42
43
43
43
43
42
42
43
43
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
42 I 48
42 49
50
51
52
53
5793
5748
5698
5642
5585
55 2S
5472
5417
5362
5307
5251
5194
5136
5U75
5009
4940
4869
4798
4727
4657
4.-1S8
4521
4458
4397
4338
4276
4211
45
50
56
57
57
56
55
55
55
56 I
57
58
61
66
69
71
71
71
70
69
67
63
61
69
62
65
68
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
>
4143
4073
4000
3924
3842
3749
3633
3521
3H95
3268
3143
30l8
2894
2771
2648
2525
2401
2277
2143
10IJ7
1841
1675
1515
1359
1213
1081
953
70
73
76
82
93
106
122
126
127
125
125
124
123
123
123
124
124
134
146
156
166
160
156
146
132
128
116
81 .
82 .
83 .
84 .
85 .
86 .
87 .
88 .
89 .
90 .
91 .
92 .
93 .
94 .
95 .
96 .
97 .
98 .
99 .
100 .
101 .
102 .
103 .
104 .
837
112
725
1U2
623
94
529
84
445
78
367
71
296
64
232
. 51
181
39
142
37
105
30
75
21
54
14
40
10
30
7
23
18
4
14
3
11
2
9
2
7
2
2
3
2
1
1
XVII. How to Calculate Salaries and Wages.
The computation of wages or salaries for short periods is vexatious to many.
The subjoined table will show at a glance the wages per day, week and month of the
sums given. To find the monthly, weekly or daily wages for annual wages not given
in the table, find the rate for figures that are given, and add, subtract or multiply
proportionately, Thus, suppose you wish to know the wages per day corresponding
to $1,2(55 per year. The wages for a year are $1,250; per month is $104.17; per
TABLES AND DIAGRAMS OF PEACTICAL VALUE.
1019'
week, $23.29; per day, $3.42. Add to this the half of the wages of $30.00, and
wc have $1.25 per month, 29 cents per week, and 8 cents per day. Hence the wagea
of $1,265 jDer year would be: per month, $105.42; per week, $23.58, and per day,
$3.50. The left-hand columns give the salaries per year, and the figures opposite, the
wages per month, week and day:
Per
Per
Per
Per
Per
Per
Per
Per
Per
Per
Per
Per
Year.
Month.
Week.
Day.
Year.
Month.
Week.
Day.
Year.
Month.
Week.
Day.
$
$
$
■S
■^
$
$
$
$
«
1
f
20 is
1 67
.38
.0.)
195
16.25
3.74
.53
450
37.50
8.63
1.23
25
2.08
.48
.07 ■
200
16.57
3.84
.55
475
39.58
9.11
1.30
30
2.50
.58
.08
205
17.08
3.93
.56
500
41.07
9.59
1.37
35
2.92
.67
.10
210
17.50
4.03
.58
525
43.75
10.07
1.44
40
3.33
.77
.11
215
17.92
4.12
.59
550
45.83
10.55
1.51
45
3.75
.86
.12
220
18.33
4.22
.60
575
47.92
11.03
i.bs
50
4.17
.96
.14
225
18.75
4.34
.62
600
50.00
11.51
1.64
55
4.58
1.06
.15
230
19.17
4.41
.63
625
52.08
11.99
1.71
60
5.00
1.15
,16
235
19.58
4.51
.64
650
54.17
12.47
1.78
65
5.42
1.25
.18
240
20.00
4.60
.66
675
56.25
12.95
1.86
70
5.83
1.34
.19
245
20 42
4.70
.67
700
58.33
13.42
1.92
75
6.25
1.44
.21
260
20-.83
4.79
.69
725
60 42
13.90
1.99
80
6.67
1.56
.22
255
21.25
4.89
.70
750
62.50
14.38
2.05
85
7.08
1.63
.23
260
21.67
4.99
..71
775
64.58
14.86
2.12
90
7.50
1.73
.25
265
22.08
5.08
.73
800
66.67
15.34
2.19
95
7.92
1.82
.26
270
22.50
5.18
.74
825
68.75
15.82
2.26
100
8.33
1.92
.27
275
22.92
5.27
.75
850
70.83
16.30
2.33
105
8.75
2.01
.29
280
23.33
5.37
.77
875
72.92
16.78
2.40
110
9.17
2.11
.30
285
23.75
5.47
.78
900
75.00
17.26
2.47
115
9.58
2.21
.32
290
24.17
5.56
.79
925
77.08
17.74
2.53
120
10.00
2.30
.33
295
24.58
5.66
.81
950
79.17
18.22
2.60
125
10.42
2.40
.34
3O0
25.00
5.75
.82
975
81.25
18.70
2.67
130
10.83
2.49
.36
310
25.83
5.95
.85
1000
83.33
19.18
2.74
135
•' 11.25
2.59
.37
320
26.67
6.14
.88
1050
87.50
20.14
2.88
140
11.67
2.69
.38
325
27.08
6.23
.89
1100
91.67
21.10
3.01
145
12.08
2.78
.40
330
27.50
6.33
.90
1150
95.83
22.06
3.15
150
12.50
2.88
.41
340
28.33
6.52
. .93
1200
100.00
23.01
3.29
155
12.92
2.97
.42
350
29.17
■ 6.71
.96
1250
104 17
23.29
3.42
160
13.33
3.07
.44
360
30.00
6.90
.99
1300
108.33
24.93
3.56
165
13.75
3.16
.45
370
30.83
7.10
1.01
1350
112.50
25.89
3.70
170
14.17
3.26
.47
375
31.25
7.19
1.03
1400
•116.67
26.85
3.84
175
14.58
3.36
.48
380
31.67
7.29
1.04
1450
120.84
27.80
3.98
180
15.00
3.45
.49
390
32.50
7.48
1.07
1500
125.00
28.77
4.11
185
15.42
3.55
.51
400
33.33
7.67
1.10
1600
133.35
30.68
4.38
190
15.83
3.64
.52
425
35.42
8.15
1.16
'
XVIII. The Earth's Area and Population.
Divisions.
Area.
Population.
Popnlation
to Square
Mile.
America,
14,700,000
3,800,000
15,000,000
10,800,000
4,500,000
88,061,148
296,713,500
699,863,000
67,414,000
25,924,000
6
SO
46
Africa ...
Oceanica,
6
48,800,000
1,177,975,648
24
1020
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
CLASSIFICATION OF THE POPULATION.
SACES.
TVhltes 550,000,000
Mongolian, 550,000,000
Black 173,000,000
Copper-colored, 12,000,000
Christians are divided as follows :
KELIGIONS.
Pagans, 676,000,000
Christians, 320,000,000
Mohammedans, 140,000,000
Jews, 14,000,000
ROMAS CATHOLICS.
170,000,000.
EASTERN OR GREEK CHURCH.
60,000,000.
PROTESTANTS
90,000,000.
The Greek Church and the Church of Rome were originally one. The first
differences occurred in A. D. 482; the second in 732. The most bitter feuds were
carried on, from time to time, between the two churches. The conquest of Constan-
tinople, in 1453, increased the hostility to the Church of Rome. As late as 1848,
Pope Pius IX, by an encyclical letter, again invited the entire Eastern Church to a
corporate union with the Church of Rome. The invitation was rejected by the Greet
Church.
XIX. The World's Commerce.
Counti-ies.
Population.
Commerce.
Imports.
Exports.
Europe
America,
.Asia,
Auitralasia
Africa,
289,000.000
84,840,000
806,700,000
1,800,000
80,000,000
$9,976,000,000
2,140,000,000
1,131,000,000
462,000,000
291,000,000
$5,650,400,000
972,800,000
489,000,000
237,800 000
134,400,000
$4,336 200,000
1,167,200 000
641,6011,000
224,400.000
156,600.000
Total, ....
1,262,340,000 §14,000,000,000
§7.747,400,000
$6,526,000,000
IMMIG14ATI0N INTO THE UNITED STATES.
Total Im-
Total Im-
Total Im-
Total Im-
■i car.
migi-ants.
mi^'ants.
migi-ants.
Year.
migi'ants.
1820, . .
8,385
1836, . .
76,242
1852. . .
371,603
1868, . .
282,189
1821, . .
9,127
1837, . .
79,34(1
1853,
368,645
1869, . .
352,768
1822, . .
6,911
l,S:iS . .
38,914
1854,
427.833
1870, . .
387.203
1823, . .
6,354
1839, . .
68,069
1855,
200.877
1871, . .
321,350
1824, . .
7,912
1840, . .
84,066
1856,
195,857
1872, . .
404,806
1820, . .
10,199
1841, . .
80,289
1857,
246,945
1873, . .
459,803
1826, . .
10,837
1842 . .
104.565
1858,
119,501
1874, . .
313,339
1827, . .
18 875
1843, . .
52,496
1859,
118,616
1875, . .
227,498
1828, . .
27.382
1844, .
78,615
1860,
150.237
1876, . .
169,986
1829, . .
22.520
1845, . .
114.371
1861,
89,724
1877, . .
141,857
1830, . .
23,322
1846, . .
154.416
1862,
89.007
1878, . .
138,469
1^31, . .
22,633
1S47, . .
234.968
1863,
174,524
1879, . .
177,826
1832. . .
60,482
1848. . .
226,557
1864,
193,195
ISSO, . .
457,257
1S33, . .
58.640
1849, . .
297 024
1865.
247,453
1881, . .
669.431
1S34, . .
65,365
1850, . .
369,980
1866,
167,757
1835, . .
45,374
1851. . .
879,466
1867,
298,967
Total. 1
0,808,189
TABLES AND DIAGRAMS OF PRACTICAL VALUE.
CHINESE IMMIGRATION INTO THE UNITED STATES.
1021
year,
No.
Yep,r.
No.
Year.
No.
Year.
No.
1855,
3,526
1862, . .
3,633
1869, . .
14,902
1876, . .
16,879
1856, . .
4,733
1S63, . .
7,2U
1870, . .
11,943
1877, . .
10,379
1857, . .
5,944
1864, . .
2,795
1871, . .
6,039
1878, .
8,468
1858, . .
5,128
1865, . .
2,942
1872, . .
10,64-i
1870, . .
9,189
1859, . .
3,457
1866, . .
2,3S5
1873, . .
18,154
1880,
7,011
1860, . .
5,467
1867, . .
3,863
1874, . .
16,651
1881, . .
13,704
1S61, . .
7,518
1868, . .
10,684
1875, . .
19,033
Total
, 232,283
' XX. Pay of the Principal Oflftoers of the United States.
President, $50,000
Vice-Presideut, 10,000
Cabinet Ministers, 10,000
Ciiief Justioe Supreme Court, 10,500
Justices of the Supreme Court, . . 10,000
Senators and Kepresentatives in Congress, with Mileage, ... 5,000
Speaker House of Kepresentatives, with Mileage, ... 10,000
Secretary of Senate, . 5,000
Clerk House of Kepresentatives, 5,000
Assistant Secretaries of Departments, 6,000
Heads of Bureaus, . . 4,500
Superintendent Coast Survey, 6,000
Judges District of Columbia, .... 3,000
Secretary Smithsonian Institution, . 4,000
Ministers Plenipotentiary to Great Britain, Prance, Germany, Kussia, each, . . . 17,500
Ministers Plenipotentiary to Spain, Austria, China, Italy, Mexico, Brazil and Japan, each 12,000
Ministers Resident and Plenipotentiary to Chili, Peru, Uruguay, Guatemala, Costa Rica,
Honduras, Nicaragua and San Salvador, each, 10,000
Ministers Resident to Portugal, Belgium, Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden and Norway,
Switzerland, Turkey, Hawaiian Islands, Hayti, Columbia, Venezuela, Ecuador,
Argentine Republic, Paraguay, Bolivia and Greece, each, 7,500
Interpreter and Secretary of Legation to China, ... 5,000
Dragoman and Secretary of Legation to Turkey, 3,000
Consul-General to Cairo, .... 4,000
Consul-General to London, Paris, Havana and Rio Janeiro, 6,000
Consul-General to Calcutta and Shanghai, ... . 5,000
Consul-General to Melbourne, . . . .' 4,500
Consul-General to Kanagawa, Montreal and Berlin, 4,000
Consul-General to Vienna, Frankfort, Rome and Constantinople, each, 3,000
Consul-General to Turkey and Egypt, 3,.i00
Consul-General to St. Petersburg and Mexico, 2,000
Consul-General to Liverpool, 6,000
Secretaries of Legation, average, 2,000
Consuls, average, • • 5,000
Of officers of the line, there are, one General, salary, $13,000; one Lieutenant-General, salary,,
$11 000- three Major-Generals with a salary each of $7,500, and six Brigadier-Generals, with a salary
each of $5,500. Of the staff officers, there are twenty-nine Aids-de-Cainp, six of them, with the pay of
a Colonel, are Aids-de-Camp to the General of the army; two of them, with the pay of a Lieutenant-
Colonel are Aids-de-Carap to Lieutenant-General; eight of them, $200 in addition to pay in line, are
Aids-de-Camp to Major-Generals; thirteen, $150 in addition to pay in line, are Aids-de-Camp to
Brigadier-Generals. »
1022
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
REGIMENTAL AND COMPANY OFFICERS.
IhTASTRT
Colonels, . .
Lieut-Colonels,
Majors, . . .
Captains, . .
Adjutants, '. .
Keg. Qrs. .
1st Lieutenants,
2d Lieutenants,
Chaplains, .
No.
25
25
25
250
25
25
250
250
2
Salary.
$3,500
3,000
2,500
1,800
1,800
1,800
1,500
1,400
1,500
Cavalry.
Colonels, . . .
Lieut. Colonels,
Majors, . .
Captains, .
Adjutants,
Ee^. Qrs. . .
1st Lieutenants,
2d Lieutenants,
Chaplains,
Xo
Salary.
10
$3,500
10
3.000
30
2,500
120
2,000
10
1,800
10
1,800
120
1,600
120
1,500
2
1,500
Artillery.
Colonels, . .
Lieut-Colonels,
Majors, . . .
Captains, . .
Adjutants, . .
Beg. Qrs., . .
1st Lieutenants.
2d Lieutenants,
No.
5
5
15
60
5
5
120
65
Salary.
$3,500
3,000
2,500
2,000
1,800
1,800
1,600
1,500
OFFICERS OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY IN ACTIVE SERVICE.
LINE— AT SEA.
KG.
SALARY.
STAFF.
NO.
SALARY.
Admiral, ....
1
1
11
23
50
90
80
280
100
100
40
334
42
$13,000
9,000
6,000
5,000
4,500
3,500
$2,800 to 3,000
2,400 to 2,600
1,800 to 2,000
1,200 to 1,400
1,000
500 to 950
900
Medical Directors, . . .
Paj- Directors
Chief Engineers, ....
Surgeons,
Paymasters,
Passed or Asst. Surgeons, .
Passed or Asst. Paymasters,
Chaplains, ......
Naval Constructors, . . .
Asst. Constructors, . . .
Pi-ofs. Mathematics, . . .
Civil Engineers, . . .
15
13
70
50
50
100
30
24
11
5
12
9
$2,800 to $4,400
Vice-Admiral, . .
Kear Admirals, . .
Commodores, .
Captains, . .
Commarders, . .
Lieut. -Commanders,
Lieutenants, .
Masters, ....
Enslffns.
2,800 to 4,200
2,800 to 4,200
2,800 to 4,200
2,800 to 4,200
1,900 to 2,200
2,000 to 2,200
2,500 to 2,800
3,200 to 4,200
2,000 to 2,600
2,400 to 3,500
2,400 to 3,500
500 to 1,000
Cadet Midshipmen,
OFFICERS OF THE MARINE CORPS IN ACTIVE SERVICE.
1 Colonel Commander,
1 Colonel
2 Lieutenant Colonels,
1 Major
Salary, $3,500
" 3,500
'' 3,000
" 2,500
18 Captains, . . . .
30 First Lieutenants,
20 Second Lieutenants,
Salary, $1,800
" 1,500
" 1,400
XXI. Public Debt of the United States— Ninety Years.
1791
$75,463,476 52
1814
.9 81,487,846 24
1837
$ 3,308, J 24 07
1860
$ 64,842,287 88
1792
77,227,924 66
1815
99,833,660 15
1838
10,434.221 14
1861
90,580,873 72
179;^
80,352,634 04
1816
127,334,933 74
1839
3,573,343 82
1862
524,176,412 13
1794
78.427,404 77
1817
123,491,96.5. 16
1840
5,250,875 54
1863
1,119,772,138 63
1795
80,747,587 39
1818
103,466,633 83
1841
13,594,480 73
1864
1,815,784,370 .57
1798
83,762,172 07
1819
•95,529,648 28
1842
20,601,226 28
1865
2,680,647,869 74
1797
82,064,479 33
1820
91,015,566 15
1843
32,742,922 00
1866
2,773,236,173 09
1798
79,228,529 12
1821
89,987,427 66
1844
23,461,652 50
1867
2,678,126,103 87
1799
78,408,669 77
1822
93,546,676 98
1845
15,325,303 01
1868
2,611,687 ,?51 19
• 1800
82,976,294 35
1823
90,875.877 28
1846
. 15,550,202 97
1869
2,588,452,213 94
1801
83,038,050 80
1824
90.269.777 77
1847
38,826.534 77
1870
2,480 672,427 81
1802
86,712,632 25
1825
83,788,432 71
1848
47,044.862 23
1871
2,353,211,332 32
1803
77,054,686 30
1826
81.054,059 99
1849
63,061,858 69
' 1872
2,253,251,328 78
1S04
86,427.120 88
1827
73,987,357 20
1850
63,452,773 55
1873
2,234,482,993 20
1805
82,312.150 50
1828
67,475,043 87
18-51
68,304,796 02
1874
2,251,690,468 43
1S06
■ 75,723.270 66
1829
58,421.413 67
1852
66.199,341 71
1875
2,232,284,531 95
1807
69,218,398 64
1830
48,565,106 .50
1853
59,803,117 70
1876
2,180,395.067 15
1808
65,196,317 97
1831
39.123.191 68
1854
42,242,222 42
1877
2,205,301,392 10
1809
57,023,192 09
1832
24,322,235 18
1855
35,586,858 56
1878
2,256,205,892 53
1810
53.173.217 52
1833
7,001,698 83
1856
31,972,537 90
1879
2,245,495,072 04
1811
48,005,587 76
1834
4,760,082 08
1857
28,699,831 85
1880
2,120,415,370 63
1812
45,209,737 90
1835
37,513 05
1858
44,911.881 03
1881
2,069,013,569 58
1813
55,962,827 57
1836
336.957 83
1859
58,496,837 88
1882
1,918,312,994 03
TABLES AND DIAGRAMS OF PRACTICAL VALUE. 1023
XXII. The United States and Territories.
The dates of admission or organization of the several States and Territories from
1800 to 1880 are given below. It will be interesting as showing the relative growth :
Area in
Total Populat
ION.
States and Tereitobibs.
Date.
Square
Miles.
1800.
1820.
1840.
1860.
1880.
Maine,
1820
31,765
151,719
298,335
501,793
628,279
648,945
New Hampshire,
17S8
9,280
183,762
244,161
284,574
326,073
347,784
Vermont. . . .
1791
9,056
154,465
235,764
291,948
■ 315,098
332,286
Massaehusetts, .
1788
7,800
423,245
523,287
737,699
1,231,066
1,783,086
Rhode Island,
1790
1,046
69,122
83,059
108,830
174,620
276,528
€oanecticnt, . .
1788
4,730
251,002
275,202
309,978
460,147
622,683
New York, . .
1788
50,519
586,756
1,372,812
2,428,291
3,880,735
5,083,173
New Jersey, . .
1787
8,320
211.949
277,575
373,306
673,035
1,130,892
Pennsylvania,
1787
46,000
802,361
1,049,458
1,724,033
2,906.115
4.282,7^8
Delaware, .
1787
2,120
64,273
72,749
78,085
112,216
146,654
Maryland, . . .
1788
11,124
341,548
407.350
470,019
687,049
935 139
District of Columbia, .
1790
60
14,093
33,039
43,712
75,080
177,638
Virginia (inc. W. Va.),
1788
61,352
880,200
1,065,379
1,239,797
1,596,318
1,512,203
W^est Viro'inia.
1863
1789
23.000
45;000
618.193
North Carolina, .
478,103
638,829
753 419
992,622
1.400,000
South Carolina, .
1788
30,213
345,591
502,741
594,398
703,708
995,706
Georgia, . . .
Florida, . .
1788
58,000
162,101
340,987
691,392
1,057,286
1,538,983
» 1845
59,268
50,722
54,477
590,756
140,425
266,566
Alabama, .
1819
127,901
964,201
1,262,344
Mississippi, . .
1817
47,156
8,850
75,448
375,651
791,305
1,131,899
Louisiana, .
1812
41,255
153,407
352,411
708,002
940,263
Texas, .
1845
237,504
604 215
1,597,509
802,564
Ai'kansas, . . .
1836
52,198
14,273
97,574
435.450
Tennessee, . . .
1796
45,600
105,602
422,813
829.210
1.109,801
1,542,463
Kentucky, . . .
1792
37,680
220,955
564,317
779,828
1,155,684
1,648,59'9
Ohio, ."....
1802
39,964
45,365
581,434
1,519,467
2,339,502
3 197,794
Michigan, . . .
1837
56,243
8,896
212,267
749,113
1 634.096
Indiana, . . .
.1816
33,809
' 4,875
147,178
685.866
1,350,428
1,978,358
Illinois, . . .
1818
55,405
55,211
476,183
1,711,951
3,078.636
Wisconsin, . . .
1P48
53,924
30,945
775,881
1,315.386
Minnesota. .
1858
81,259
50,914
67.380
173,855
674,948
1,182,012
780,807
1,624.463
2,169,091
lowfi
1846
43,112
383,;'02
Missouri, . .
1821
66,586
Kansas, .
1861
78,418
107,206
995.H35
California, . . .
1850
155,500
.
.
379,994
864 686
Oregon, ...
1859
80,000
.
52,465
174,767
^J"pVti'fmlffl
1867
75,995
81,539
28,841
6,857
34.277
452,432
62,265
174 649
1864
J^ Kj \ OlKi-fh m • • • • •
■Colorado,
1875
104,500
.
Washington Territory, .
Utah
1853
1
11.5fl4
75,120
143,907
1850
o H
' 6^100
40,273
New Mexico "
Dakota "
Idaho
1850
persons
in IT. S.
93,516
4,837
118.430
1861
"- a
134 502
1867
■g 3
5 so
Navy.
32,611
iVT/'»ni"Q M '1 "
1867
39,157
Wyoming "
1868
o ^
20',788
1867
,
p
40^441
J\.l lliVllei
.
Total,
5,305,937
9,638,191
17,069,453
31,445,080
50,152,559
XXIII. Diagrams Giving Valuable Statistics.
The following statistical diagrams show Production of Coirn and Wheat ; Export
and Production of Cotton; Average Wages ; Miles of Eailroad in Operation, and
Ao-o-reo-ate Tons of Freight Moved, and will be found valuable for reference.
1024
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
TABLES AND DIAGRAMS OF PRACTICAL VALUE.
1025
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1026
THE HOME AXD FAEM MAXUAL.
TABLES AND DIAGEAMS OF PRACTICAL VALUE.
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1029
Ifiagram sAowijjg^e aggregate numbers o/t(msgf/re{g/itfnoired on*
the Erie cttnaL^otaltonsmoaedtatidewaiier^onsmaueatotiie water
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''o
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX
-TO-
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
Absorbing power of soils, 86
Absorption of oxygen by soil, 86
" by various substances, 996
Abuses in courts, 674
Acceptance of invitation, 946'
Accurate knowledge, value of 142
Acid stains, to remove, 788
Activity of youtb, ... 39
Adapting crops to localities, . .... 286
" " soils, 286
Addressing a letter, 949
Admission or organization of the several States
and Territories, 1023
Adorning the home, 40
Advantage of soiling, 172
After dinner, etiquette of 911
" " rules for 911
Agreement between landlord and tenant, . . 713
■ ' general form of 976
for building, 382
Agreements and contracts, 976
Agricultural alphabet 151
" ideals, ten 83
" principles and practice, .... 75
" products, weight of ... . 1005
" ■ works of Mago, 48
Agriculture and the ancients, 44
" and science, 84
■ " defined, 47
history of 47
" of Arizona Indians, 46
" of the Indians, 44
" progressive, 84
" mediaeval and modern, .... 59
" the basis of wealth, 42
A la mode beef, ... 830
Alaska lands, '. 672
Albumen of meat, 818
Alcohol pickles, 848
Aleck and Sarah's ornamental work, .... 742
Aleck's quilting frame, 745
Alfalfa, soil and cultivation for 164
" or luzerne, 163
Aligning fence, 303
Allspice, varieties of 969
Alphabetical list, sick-room remedies, . 771-774
Alphabet of agriculture, 151
" of etiquette, 957
Alsike or Swedish clover, 163
Alteration of grades, . .347
Always take a receipt 710
Amuse children, 762
Analysis of the soil unnecessary, 75
Ancient and modern dress, . 754
" crop yields, 58
cultivation precise, 51
" farms and implements, 50
farms small, .51
" manner of seeding, . • 58
" manure making, 56
" plowing superhcial, 51
" plows and plowing, 57
" reaping machines, 55
" Roman implements,, . . . 51
" whims and vegetables, . .... 753
•' writers on draining, 325
Animal and vegetable life, contrasts, .... 997
" husbandry, definition of 47
Animals in open highway, liability for . . . 661
" trespassing, 662
Antique crops . . 54
Ants, to drive away, 784
Apothecaries' measure, liquid, ...... 987
'■ weights, comparative scale, . . 988
Apparatus for hatching fish, 565-566
Apple and other fruit waters, . .... 770
" cake, Virginia, 882
" custard pie, 865
" dumplings, ... 870
" jam, 895
" marmalade, 895
" pie, 863
" pudding, plain, ' . 871
" souffle, 872
" tapioca pudding, 870
Apples, Canada reiuette, 453
" Early Joe, . . 455
" Grimes golden, . ... . 456
" Higby sweet . 456
" Summer rose, . 456
" Tetofsky, 454
" cultivation and varieties, . . 453-458
" distance apart of trees, 449
pruning, 453
" some good ones described, . . 453^57
'' valuable, illustrated, . . . 450^57
Application for bounty lands, 975
" of manure, 56
Applications, various, for arrears of pay, . . 973
Apprentice, complaint of 972
Apprenticeship, indenture of 971
Arable lands, ancient, 52
Arbitration, 717
" form of submission, 717
Arbitrators, award of 717
Arboriculture, definition of 47
(1031)
1032
THE HOME AND FAEM MANUAL.
Arbor-vitae hedge, 320
Architect, consultation with . . . . . . . 383
Architecture, glossary of terms, . . . 384^892
'• rural, 361
Area of countries, 1019
" " timber for the farm, 570
Arizona Indians, 46
Arrangement of furniture, 735
" and care of tools, . . . 427-431
" of privies, 411
Arrears of pay and bounty, application for . 973
" ■ " " various forms for. 973
Artichoke, cultivation of 177
" Jerusalem, 177
Artificial cross fertilization, 98
'• fish breeding, 562
" hatching of fish, 564
" spawning of fish, 563
'.' timber and liimber, 570
Art of grafting, 482
" plowing, 63
Asking a favor, letter, 949
Assignment of mortgage, 715
A stitch in time, 756
Attorney, power of 714
Autumn roses, 516
Avoirdupois, scale of comparison, .... 988
'■ weight, 987
Award of arbitrators, 717
Bachelor's pudding, 874
Back furrows, 65
Bacon, how to know good, 810
Bad seasons, and rotation, 79
" ti-aining and idleness, 39
Baked rice and apples, 769
" eggs, 836
" meats, 831
" oystei-s, 833
Balance gate, . . . • 309
Ball etiquette, 923
" invitation to 946
Balloon frame, barn, ... 441
frames, how to build, 439
'• frames strongest, 439-440
Bands for corn shocks, 116
Bank bills, 718
" notes, engraving of . 718
Barberiy hedge, 321
Bark lice, 597-598
•' to destroy, 584
Barley and its products, 962
" " cultivation, 102
" new varieties, 104
" table of best soil, 103
" " harvesting, 103
" " seed per acre 103
" " when sown, 103
Barriers, ti-ees for 322-323
Bars and gates, 307
Barrel coop, 408
Bark summer house, 406
Barn basement, 417
" fixtures, 414
" farm, main floor, 373
" for cattle, 372
for horses and cows, 416
" hoi-se, ground floor, 373
FA.GE.
Barn machinery, 415
•' with shed, 417
Barns, stables and corn cribs, 414
Basement of barn, ... 417
Basting meat, 829
Bathing infants, 762
" proper time for 763
Beans, products of 963
Bean soup, 823
Beautifying the home, 725
Bed-bug 610
Bed-bugs, to kill, 784
Bedding for the household, 726
Bed-rooms, 731
Beech, weeping, 551
Beef tea, to make, 767
" a la mode, 830
'• boiled, 825
' killing on the farm, 813
'• soup, clear, 821
" stew, 827
Beefsteak stew with jelly, 827
Beer of sulphuric acid, 888
Beet sugar in the United States, 247
" " of Europe, 246
Beginning a dairy, 287
" market garden, 494
Belts of wheat and corn, 90
Beneficial insects, 647-650
" " illustrated, .... 586-587
Bent grasses, 159
Best cotton States, 197
Biennial flowers, select, 513
Bill-bug, corn, preventives from 627
Bill of sale, personal property, 979
"• " with warranty, 979
BiUs of sale, 979
" " why given, 716
Bird friends, 652
Birds, classified by their food, 654
'■ climbers, 654
" deserving extermination, . . . i . 657
" fi'uit eaters, 653
" injudicious destruction of 655
'■ in economy of nature, .... 651-655
" M. Provost on 657
" natural enemies of insects, 655
" of doubtful utility, 656
" predacious, 653
" the farmer should foster, 656
" to be fostered, 656
" versus insects, 579
" what to kiU, 652
which i-ender best service, 657
Bird's-nest pudding, 872
Birch, weeping, 550
Biscuits, raised, 859
Bitters, home-made, 889
Black pepper 968
Blackbirds, 654
BlackbeiTies, care of 472
Black walnut coloring, 803
Blank indorsements, 706
Blanc mange 769
Blankets, to cleanse, 787
Bleaching cotton goods, 789
" linens, 789
Blight in pears, 457
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1033
PAGE.
Blind drains, 327
Blood-sucking cone-nose, 612
Board fence, how to build, 303
Bohemian cream, 874
Boiled beans, 843
" dinner, 826
" dishes, 825-826
" fowl, 825
" grape pudding, 871
" lamb, 826
" meats, sauce for 826
" and stewed dishes, 819
Boiling, famous cook on 819
" maple sap, 266
" sorghum iuiee, 264
" things to know in 819
" points of fluids, 995
" fish, 767
Bonds, why given, 716
Book-destroying insects, 786
Book farming, 44
' Books, value of . • 44
■ Boston brown bread, ' 858
Boundaries of farm, 669
Bounty land, oath to identity, 975
" " various forms for 975
Brandied fruits, 899
Bread and bread-making, 856-860
" of fine flour, 856
" without yeast, 856
Breaded chops and cutlets, 767
Breakfast, 751
" and supper, 912
" biscuit, 859
" cake, oatmeal, 860
• " puffs, 860
" relish, 843
Breaking hemp for market, 206
Brioche paste, 834
Brick, unbm-ned, to make, 376
Bride at home, the 36
British agriculture, early 59
" farm tools, ISTorman, 59
Broiling fowl and game, 768
" and frying, 831
Brome or rescue grass, 150
Brown Betty, 868
" dye, 802
" sauce, 839
Brooms, care of 792
Broths, to make, 767
Brushes and combs, 760
" to clean, 760
Buckwheat, best soil, 108
" cultivation of 108
" seed per acre, 108
" time of sowing, 108
" time to harvest, 108
Budding and grafting, 481-489
" care after, 489
*' materials necessary for 487
" spring, r • • 488
" terminal, 488
" the art of 487
'■ time for 486
Buds, loosing strings, 489
" .protection in winter, 489
" to prepare, 487
PAGE.
Buffalo grass, 145
Bugs, general means for destroying, .... 615
Building happy homes, ' 33
Build according to ineans, 361
Building a log house, 282
" a wall, 377
" board fence, 303
" details, judgment in 370
" material, 376
" stone wall, 438
Building-bee 283
uildings and fences, relative cost of . . . 298
" should be substantial, 371
" specification for .... . . 377
Bulking tobacco, 239
Bulbs, summer flowering, 514
Bunching hemp, 206
Bushels in cribs by height and breadth, . . 999
Business, characters used in 721
" law, points on 719
" maxims, 719
" transactions, law forms on . . 703-721
Buttermilk bread, 859
Buy of responsible dealers, 704
Buying a farm, things to consider, . . 290-292
Cabbage soup 822
Cake and cake-making, ...... 875-882
" economical as food, 875
Cake-making, general rules for ... 875-876
Cakes, ornamenting, 876
Calf figured for cutting, 813
Calves and their best parts, 812
CaU's-foot jelly, 768
California game laws, 678
Calls, etiquette of 916
Calling on New Year, 918
Cancelling notes, 710
Candles, home-made, 790
Candied fruits, 891
Candy-maker's art, 890
Cannibal bugs, 611-614
Cane and other sugar compared, 246
" sugar, 248
" sugars of the world, 246
Canning fruits, 893
" fruits, table of boiling, 893
fruits, table of sugar per quart, . 893
" tomatoes, 894
" vegetables, 894
" whole fruit, peaches, 894
Capabilities of soil, 84
Capacity of soils for water, 348
Capers, true and false, . . • 970
Cards, "At Home," 952
" reception, • . . . 952
Cardinal rules of etiquette 954
Careful farmer's barn, 275
Care after budding, 489
" and arrangement of tools, .... 427^31
" of blankets and furs, 794
" of brooms, . . . , 792
" of children, 762
" of combs and brushes, 760
" of the hair, 759
" of trees against insects, 58.3
" of hop-yard, 227
" of hops in crop years, 227
1034
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
PAGE.
Care of hops when dried, 230
" silk-worms, 217
Caruivorous bugs, 611-614
Carp breeding, 567
Carpet bedding, plants for .541
rags, coloring green, 804
" " to color, 804
Carpets and bedding, 726
'• laying them 733
" to brighten, 796
" to clean, 794
Carriage house and farm stable, 368
" stable, 414
Carrot, red altringham, 177
Carrots, Belgian, 175
Carving at table, • 748
'• by servants, 907
" fish, 751
•' four-footed game, 749
'■ small birds, 750
" turkey, 749
Cassia, where produced 968
Catalpa, . . • 530
•' sphinx, remedies for 637
Cato on agriculture, 49
Catsups, .,....• 851
Cattle barn, 372
feeding-barn 416
Cellar economy, 732
Cellaring and pitting roots, 176
Cereals described, 89
Certificate, mechanics', 979
Chalcis fly, 649
Challoner's level, 344
Chamomile tea, 770
Character of fruits, 465
Characters used in business, 721
Charlotte Eusse, 873
Chattel mortgage, form of 978
" " with power of sale, . . . 978
" security on lease, . 294
Cheerfulness in sick-room, 764
Chemistiy of bread-making, 817
" of the kitchen, 817
Cherry pudding, ■ . 871
" syrup, 888
" (cerasus), . . 528
Cherries, good sorts for the East, . . . 467-472
" for the West, 468
" their cultivation, 467
Cherokee rose hedge, 321
Chicken croquettes, 842
" coops, 408
" enclosure, ' . . 409
" houses, 409
'• pot-pie, 835
Childhood's democracy, 41
" sports, 41
Children, care of 762
" duty to 739
" treatment of 954
" trespassing while berrying, etc., . 662
Children's application for arrears of pay and
bounty, 974
Children's party cake, 880
" " invitation to 946
Chili sauce, 852
Chinch bug, remedies for 607, 616
( PAGE.
Chinese plow, ancient 48
Chinese wistaria, . . . 527
Chinking the house, . . . 284
Chocolate, 887
■' cai-amels, .... 890
•' custard 874
" preparation for cake, . . . ; . 877
" and cocoa, 965
" how made, . . . . ... 965
Choice parts of beef, 814
Chow-chow, 848
Chronicles of Columella, . . ; 50
Christian population of the earth, .... 1020
Christmas cake, ... 880
Christening, etiquette at 930
" how to conduct, .... 930-931
Church architecture, ... 403
" etiquette, rules for 927
Chutney, imitation, 849
Cicero and agriculture, 49
Cinnamon, how to know when pure, . , . . 968
rolls, 861
Circular measure, . 1007
Cisterns, 732
'• contents of 1000
Claim of land, selection of 276
Clam soup 824
Clarifying stock in soup, 828
Classification of insects, 588
Clay as a deodorizer, 775
" in soils, per cent of 86
Cleaning grain, ancient, 55
house, 735, 794
" kitchen utensils, 816
" silver .... 791
■' ti-ees of insects, B83
Cleanliness in the kitchen, 816
Cleansing the hair, 798
Clearing a timbered farm, 282
Cleft grafting, 482-484
Clematis, 526
Climate for cotton, , . . 197
Climbing and trailing shrubs, . . . 525-527
' • shrubs, clematis, 526
" '■ 'honeysuckle, 527
" ivy, 527
" " tnoon seed, 527
" " silk vine, 527
" " wistaria, 527
" birds, 654
Cloth measure, 985
'■ and fur moths, 785
Clothe according to means, 755
Clothes, care of 760
" conserve heat, 755
Clothes-pins, to presei-ve, 788
Clothing of childi-en, ' . 756
Clotted cream, 867
Clover-root borer, remedy for, 618
Clover-stem borer, " 617
Clover-leaf beetle, " 619
" midge, 618
Clover as related to husbandry, 160
" Japan, on bush, . . i64
" Mexican, 165
" seed crop, iei
" valuable varieties of 161
" \\hite 162
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1035
Clovers as soiling crops, 170
" for the South, 163
Cloves, 969
Coal in sick-rooms, ... 782
Cockroaches, to kill 784
Cocoa and chocolate, 965
Cocoanut bread pudding, 874
" candy, . '. 891
" pound-cake, 878
Codicil to will, 714
Coffee, a cup of 887
" bread, 860
" cake, 882
• ' grades of 966
'• how to make, 887
Coin, counterfeit, 719
Cohesion of materials, 992
Cold and warm effects in color, ...... 757
" baths, 763
" frame, planting in, 496
" meat sauce, 839
Cold-made soap, 790
Cole slaw, 842
Color and combination, 757
" to restore, 788
Colored washes for walls, 735
Coloring black, 802
" blue, 801
" carpet rags, 804
" " " blue or yellow, .... 805
" " green or red, .... 805
cotton 801
fabrics, 800
" green, 801
" scarlet and pink, 802
'■ with butternut bark 803
'■ " walnut bark, 803
" yellow, 800
Columella and agriculture, 50
Comfort in the homestead, 275
Comforts of to-day, 42
Commerce of the earth, 1020
Commei-cial fertilizers — ancient, 56
Common sense of etiquette, 903
Compacting soil, . 69
Comparison of proximate principles, . . 1013
Comparative tables of measures and weights, 989
" values of sorghum (tables), . . 256
Complaint of apprentice, 972
of a master 972
Complete dairy barn, 415
Composition of soils, 76
Complying with favor asked, 949
Component parts of meat, 817
Compound fence, 306
Comstock's retinia, .... 639
Concerts, private, 925
Conclusions on sorghum sugar-making, . . . 266
Condensed information, value of 780
Conditional indorsement, 706
Condiments, 851
Connecticut game laws, 676
Connecting laterals with mains, 349
Consent to indenture, ......... 972
Consulting an architect, 383
Contents and dimensions of fields, .... 998
" of cisterns, 1000
" of granaries 1000
PAGE.
Contracting for the crop, 289
Contract for building, 381-382
Contracts and agreements, 976
Contrast between homes, 33
Contributions on household economy, . . . 780
Convalescent cookery, 767
Convenient cottage, ground plan , 398
" " second floor, 398
Conversation, etiquette of 914
Conversazione, invitation to . . .... 946
" the 925
Conveyor's right- in rights of way, .... 664
Cooldes, 881
Cooking, general rules, 765
" mushrooms, 845
" for convalescents, .... 767-770
" for invalids, 765
" vegetables, 766
Cooling pork, 809
" and heating of soil, 995
Cooling-room for hops, 230
Copperas for cess-pools, etc., 775
Corn and rice bread, 858
" and wheat belts, , 90
•' beef, boiled, 825
" bill-bug, preventives for . . . • . . 627
" blossom, 134
" borer, smaller 625
" " " preventives for, .... 625
" bread, steamed, 859
" crios, 414-422
" " contents of 999
" " with driveway 424
" crop, cost of ' 117
" of the United States, 109
" cutting and shocking, 116
" deijth to cultivate, 114
'• dodger, 859
" early cultivation, 112
" for soiling, 169
" germinating temperature, 117
" houses, 422
" liow often to cultivate, 114
" manures for 110
" planters 72
" planting, 112
" pone 858
" prize crops, 110
" production— table, 90
■■ pudding, 872
" results of bad cultivation, 109
" shocking around tables, 116
" soup, , 822
" to increase the average, 109
" to prepare the soil, . Ill
" varieties of 119
" worm, preventives for, 628
" yellow dent, 111-119
Corn-horse for shocking, 116
Corn-shock binder, 1 17
Cost and profit of drainage, 332
" of growing hops, 223
" of farm fences, 299
" of fence per rod, 299
Costumes at dinner 905
Cottage, farm or suburban, 365
" for farm hand 394
" of pioneer, cost of 272
1036
THE HOME AXD FARM MANUAIi.
PAGE.
Cottages and farm houses, 393
Cotton a child of the sun, . . 197
'• antiquit}' of 194
burying the stalks, . . 199
'• climate, the 197
crop hy States — table, 196,
'• crops, table of 196
'• cultivation, improved implements for . 199
'• of 198
" desti-oying insects on ... . 201, 62S-631
family, the 194
" first cultivation, 200
' history and cultivation, 194
of, United States, 195
" importance of . . , 196
" long staple 195
'• plowing and fertilizing, 200
" preparation of soil for 199
" second cultivation, 200
" seed, products of 966
" soUs, 195
'• species of 194
•• States, best 197
•' uplands, 195
Cotton-boll and corn-worm, natural enemies of 628
" worm, 628
" preventives for, 628
Cotton-plant louse, 596
Cotton-worm, 629-634
" killing, illustrated, 201
" poisons for . . 681
" remedies for 629
spraying poisons on, .... 630
Country home, comfortable, 364
'• " ideal, 35
Counterfeit bills, to detect, 718
Court plaster, 798
Covering wheat proper depth, 94
Cow's heel jelly, 769
Cow-pea for forage, 170
Crab-apple jelly, 897
" (pyrus), 530
Crauberrj' bog* leveling, 477
bogs, dykes for 477
" " sanding, 477
" cultivation of 477-480
pie, , .863
situations for 477
Cranberries, curing and packing, 480
Cream, artificial for coffee, 887
- beer, 889
'• bread, 857
" cake, French, 878
clotted, 867
•' pie, 864
Cream of tartar beer. 888
Cresinus' defence, 51
Crib of poles, 422
Orilis. to find contents, dent corn, 999
" " flint corn, .999
Crop, contracting for 289
second year's, ... 279
Crops and rotation, 78
" diversity of 279
export of 105
" Great Britain and United States, . . 1010
" indicated by soil, 286
■ ' of grass seed, 80
PAQE.
Crops, pulled by hand, 55
Roman, 53
" to localities, adaptation of 287
" to raise, 277
" when to hold, 290
'■ when to sell, 289
Cross fertilization, artificial, 98
" " diagram, 99
Croquettes, 843
Crows, 653
Crust for tarts, . . . • 865
" with melted fat 835
Cubic feet per ton, 992
" or solid measure, 986
Cucumbers, to pickle, 847
Cultivating garden, economy in ..... 503
" orchards against insects, .... 582
" the hedge, 318
" tobacco. South, 232
Cultivatable fishes, 559
Cultivation and care of tobacco, ..... 238
'• of barley, ....;.... 102
" of cherries, 467
" of cotton, 198
" of flowers, 508
" of hemp, . * 204
" of hop-yard, 227
" of jute, 208
" of oats, 105
" of peanuts, 242
" of ramie plants, 209
" of rice, 125
" of sorghum, 249-252
" of sugar-cane, 249
" of the vine, 474
" " in the moon " theory, .... 505
Cultivator, one-horse, .71
" sti'addle row, 70
" walking, 71
Curing and packing cranbeiTies, 480
" tobacco, 238
Curious dishes, 752
Currant and moss jelly, 769
Curtains for windows, 728
Currant jelly without cooking 897
Currants, care of 472
Cui-ves, laying out, 539
" of walks, 540
Custard cake, 882
Custards and creams, 874
Cutting and handling sorghum-cane, . . . 250
" and saving scions, 485
and shocking corn, 116
hemp, 205
" scions, time for . . 489
'• tobacco, 238
" up a hog 810
" up a lamb, 812
" up an ox 814
" up a sheep, 811
Cuttings, propagation by 490
Cutlets, breaded, 767
Cypress, Lawson's, 547
Dactylis ^orchard grass), 159
Daily savings, growth of 1017
Dairy barn, complete, 415
" districts and soiling, 167
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1037
PAGE.
Dairy fixtures, 289
" house, 287
to start, 287
Dakota public lands, 672
Damper iu stove, 781
Dancing, rules for 925
Daniel Webster's plow, 62
Danvers carrot, . 176
Dating and beginning a letter, 950
Deadening timber, 285
Dealers, liability of . . . 667
Deciduous hedges, care of 322
■' trees for landscape effect, .... 547
Decoloring sorghum sugar, 265
Decorating dining-room, 746
•' the parlor, 740
the table, 746
Decorum in children, 739
Deeds, erasures in 716
'■ interlining, 716
" warranty, 715
Defences defeating payment, 709
Definition of mercantile terms, ... 720-721
Delaware game laws, . . 677
Delicate cake, . . . . 879
•' pudding, . 873
Democracy of childhood, ... .... 41
Dent corn, 119
Dentzia, 519
Deoderizers, 775.
Deportment in the street, 919
Depth for germinating of grass seed, .... 152
" to cultivate corn, 112
Description of cereals, 89
" of nectarines, 467
Desert land act, 672
Design for village lot, 537
Destroying cotton insects 201
Details, must be watched, 274
Detecting counterfeit money, 718
Devonshire cream, . . . 867,
Device for moving trees, . 540
Diagrams of balloon frames, 439-440
" of flower beds,, 540-.541
Diagram, average tons moved, Erie canal,
etc., series of years, .... ... 1029
Diagram, miles of railways built and operated,
series of years, 1028
Diagram of averagCi wages, groups of States, 1027
'■ production of corn, series of years, 1024
" '• wheat, series of years, 1025
" relating to cotton, series of years, 1026
" cross fertilization, . .... 99
Difficulties in pear culture, 457
Digestibility of some animal foods, .... 766
Dinner, 752
" costumes, rules for 905
" givers, hints to 911
" how many to invite, 904
" how to serve, 907
" order of dishes at 907
" useful hints for 908
" family, 908
Dinner-table, well-arranged, 747
Dining-room decoration, 728
" and dining -service, 746
" furniture 728, 746
Directing youthful sports, 42
PAGE
Directing the talents of youth, 38
Disinfection, 775
Disinfectants of high authority, 778
" how to use, 778
" table of relative values, . . . 777
Disinfecting clothing, 775
" the sick-room, .... 775, 778-779
District school-house, . . 403
Dishes, order of, at dinner, 907
Ditch fence, ' .... 306
Diversity of crops, , 279
Division fences, how built, 663
" of insects by food, 593
Divisions of agriculture 47
" of horticulture, 47
Dog laws of the several States, .... 679-682
Dogwood, 517
Doughnuts, Yankee, raised, 882
Doctoring bruised furniture, 795
Doctor's bills, to save, 761
Dolly and Tom's household ornameAts, . . . 742
Doses and their graduation, 775
Double-braced gate, 312
Drab and green coloring for carpet rags, . . 804
Drafts explained, 710
Drainage, ancient writers on 325
" and fences, 337
" by French monks, 327
" cost and profit of 332
" defined, 326
" experience in Illinois, 332
" fixing gradients, 342
' from the house, 374
' furrows, 65
" how to know when necessary, . . 356
" importance of, to stockmen, . . . 357
" indestructible, 328
" John Johnston's testimony, . . . 329
" lands requiring, 355
" laying out the work, 341
" map and pond, 336
" of the Greeks, 325
" right and wrong way. .... 333
tools, . . ■ • , • 342, 345, 350
" various means of . . ' 338
" Versailles experiments, .... 358
Drainer's level, . . 342
" spades, 345
Draining a whole farm, 354
" a field, 350
"• and drainer's art, ... . . 324
" antiquity of 324
" into ponds, 335
" in Indiana, 331
" in Michigan, 331
" orchard soils, ... • . 450'
" S. F. Woolley's experience, . . 330
" when it pays 351
Drains, form of 341
" leveling the bottom, .... . . 344
" open, 327
" protecting the banks, 343
'• slab and pole .... 340-
" stock water from 334
" stone laid 339-
" surface leveling, 346
. " grades, alteration of 347
" and springs, , 328
1038
THE H05IE AJTD FAE5I MAIrtTAL.
Drawing-room, the 737
Dress, ancient and modern, 754
" children comfortably, 757
Louserves heat, 755
its tnie pm-pose, 754
true taste in . . 754
Dressing hemp tiher, 206
Dried beef, stewed. ... 845
'■ peach pudding, 871
Drilling wheat, advantages of 94
Drills for seeding, ... 72
Drinks, refreshing, 888
Drives and walks, forming curves, 539
keeping in order, . 540
Driving etiquette, .... .... 922
" in plowing, 64
■' out flies, . . 785
three abreast, 278
Drop cakes, . . . 879
" Johnnies, . . . . . . 882
Dry-house and hot-bed, 410
Drying currants, ... 898
" hops, 228
'■ plums, 898
tobacco, 239
Dry-kiln for hops, 229
Dry measure, comparative scale, 986
'• soil grasses, ... 142
•• surface may need draining, 330
Duchesse potatoes. 844
Duck enclosure, . 409
Due-bills, forms of 708
Dumplings, 869-870
'■ for soup, 834
Duration of bath, . 763
" of life, mean, 1017
Dusting furnitm-e, ... 736
Duties of parents morally, . 39
Dyeing brown with catechu, 802
Dyer's art, the . 800
Dyes for dresses, 800
Dyking cranbeny bogs, 477
Eagle, 653
Earlv rhubarb, forcing, . 500
Earth closet 412, 775
•• silos 180
Earth's Christian population, 1020
'■ population, classification of . . . 1020
" specific gravity and weight, .... 992
Eastern rotation, 80
Eating, rules for 903, 908-910
Economy dish, 842
in cultivation, 503
" in coal, 782
in fuel, 781
" in the kitchen, .... ... 781
of fertilization, 77
" of the garden, 491
Educate to a purpose, 37
Eel soup, 824
Effervescent drink, 771
Ea:g sauce • .... 836
Eggs, dishes of
836
Elaborate rotation, 79
Elderberry wine, .... 798
Elruge nectarines, . . 467
English gothic cottage, 400
PAGE.
English gothic cottage, ground plan, .... 401
• ' and metric equivalents, 986
" long measm-e 985
" standards of measure, 983
Ensilage and silos, 178
'■ condensed facts on . . . . 186-191
cost of. detailed account, . . . 192
crops, . . 187
definition of ... . .... 178
effects on dairy products 189
" facts in feeding, 189-190
father of 180
" feeding, practical conclusions, . . 193
" •' value of 1S2
history of 178-182
" in the United States, 183
" '■ West in 1870, 17S
" long knomi in Em-ope, 178
materials for . 181
plants, yield of 183
■ ' pressure of 187
rations, 190
" " for cows, 185
'■ should not ferment, 181
" value of . . 1S2
Entertaining visitni-s 738
Enticing laborers from work, 668
Entomologj' on the farm 579
'• practical value of .... 579
Epax apicaulis, . . . .... 649
Equivalents, the housewife's, SS3
Erecting rough buildings, 435
Establishing a hop-yaj-d, 224
Esti-ay laws. ... 683
Etiquette I if introductions, 920
" of shopping, 937
" of travel, for ladies, 935
'• of the road 934
'• of visiting, 928
philosophy of . . . . . 903
" special rules of . . . . 938
of the parlor, 737
of the table, .... 747, 903-912
alphabet of 957
'• and success in life, . 903
at balls and parties, .... . 923
•' at church, ... 927
at funerals, 929
at luncheon, 913
" in dining, ... 904
'• in Washington, 936
of calls, 916
'• of courses at dinner, 907
'• of dress, 914
European rotation, 82
Evaporation from various substances, . . 996
Everlasting flowere, 533
Evening calls, 916
'• parties 925
" party. 'invitation to ... . . . 945
Every-day pies, 864r-S65
" " pudding, 869
Eve's pudding, 873
Example before children, .... ... 954
Exercise of children, 764
" of taste at home, 40
Expelling flies from rooms, 785
Experimental patches of grass, 135
ALPHAJJETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1039
PAGE.
Experiments, feeding ensilage, 193
with ensilage, 190-191
Explanation of drafts, • ... 710
Exports of food crops, 105
Face, to remove spots, etc., on 797
False hair, to curl, 797
Pall and spring plowing, 66
•■ plowing for root crops, 174
Fallow crops, Roman, 51
Family government, 35
" dinners 908
Farm and forest area. United States, . . . 1012
a garden 296'
" barn, main floor, 373
" buildings, grouping, 414-415
" cottage, t . . . . 365
" ground plan, 367
'• '■ second floor, 367
fences, cost of • . . . . 299
" gate, southern, 312
" house toilet, 758
'■ " Italian style, 398
'• " simple plans, 364
" houses and cottages, 393
" " substantial, 361
'• how to buy, 290
ice-house 411
" garden and orchard, 445
" lease, 712
" leasing, • 292-294
map of 296
" commencing a 277
" orchard and garden, 445
•' paint shop 434
'■ park, view of ... . 368
" situation of, important, 291
" to lay out, 295
" to select, 290
" stable and carriage-house, 368
" workshop, . . . • 426
what is it? 668
," implements, modern, 61
•' " kept in order, 429
'• sons and daughters on 37
Farmer and gardener, 492
unthrift, 275
Farmer's animals, law governing, 661
" wife, the 36
Farming, attention to details , 273
" fancy, ancient, 51
" pioneer, 271
Fat and fiber of meat, 818
Feeding barn for cattle, 416
" boxes, 418
" green fodder, 169
" rack for sheep, 420
" silk-worms 215
" shelves for silk-worms, . ... 216
" value of ensilage, 182
Feet, square, and square feet in areas, . . .999
Fence, aligning, 303
" capped and battened, 304
" compound, 306
" finishing, 303
" how to build, 300
" laws in general, 696
" " in the South, 697-698
PAGE.
Fence laws Middle States, 697
" " of the several States, . . . 695-702
" " New England States, . . 696-697
" " Pacific Slope, 702
" " Western States, . . . 699-702
" per rod, cost of, 299
" portable 304
" post-and-rail, . . ... 301
" setting the posts, 303
" sod and ditch, 306
straight with stakes, . . . . 301
" wire, 305
Fences and buildings, relative cost of . . . 298
" cost of 299
Fencing hillsides, . . . . 307
" vs. soiling, 168
Fermentation in ensilage, ^. . 181
" in the silo, effects of . . . 184
Fertility, practical test of .77
Fertilizers, economy of -77
Fertilizing cotton soils, 200
Field birds, to carve, 750
" , cultivation of sweet potatoes, .... 244
" drainage illustrated, 335
" drained, 351
" husbandry, definition of 47
Fields, dimensions and contents of, ... . 998
Fig jelly, 897
'• pudding, ■ 871
Fi^s of tomatoes, 899
Filing implements, 432
Filtering and liming sorghum juice, .... 264
Fine flour bread, ... 856
Finch-family, ... 654
Finished sugar, tests for 268
First furrows, .... 64
" pastures, ... .... ... 280
" steel plow, 61
Fish and fowl sauce, ... 838
" " game laws, 675-679
" " oyster pies, 835
" breeding, artificial, 562
" chowder, .... 825
" culture, mistakes in 558
" hatching, artificial, 564
" " boxes, ... 565
" of New England, spawning, 561
" of the West, spawning, '. . 560
" on the farm, . .^ 557
" pond, to form, 568
" soup, 823
" spawning, 563
" transportation, rules for 562
" time required to cook, 767
" to carve 751
Fishes for cultivation, "• 5."i9
Fixtures for the dairy, 289
Flat furrows, turning, 279
Flavor gives name to a sauce, 840
Flavoring, leaves for 846
Flax and its cultivation, 201
" and hemp, conclusions on 207
" fiber, 203
" harvesting of . . 204
" soil, preparation of 203
" soils 203
straw, dew and water rotting, .... 204
" threshing, " 204
1040
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
FAG£.
Flaxseed, 201
" quantity to sow, 203
" selection of 203
Flies, to destroy, 784
'• to drive out, 785
Flint corn, 121
Floating island, 873
Floriculture, 47
Floui-, its manufacture, 961
•' original meaning of 961
Flower beds, diagrams of 540-541
'• " laying out,' 541
'• " planting, 541
•' garden, 507
" " Lincoln Park, Chicago, . . . 542
Flowers, everlasting, 533
not transplantable 509
" perennial, select list of 513
select list of 510-511
" succession of 509
" to cultivate, 508
Flowering of grasses illustrated, . . . 136-141
'■ plants and vines, ' . 514
»• shrubs, 517
" trees, 528
Flood-gates, 314
Flooding the rice crop, ... ... 126, 128
Fluids, freezing points of 995
" boiling points of 995
Food crops, export of 105
'• of silk- worm 221-222
Foods and digestion, 765
by analysis and experiment, . . . 1014
'• for convalescents, . 767
" for invalids, 765
" nuti-itive value, for animals, . . 1014
Forage of cow-peas, 170
" root crops for 173
Force in using tools, 994
Foreign exchange, table of 990
Forcing plants, cold frame, 495
" " in spring, ........ 497
" " troughs for 494
" rhubarb, 500
Forest, the poetiy of .. 574
'• and farm areas. United States, . . 1011
" Europe and United States compared, 1011
Foretelling the weather, . / 1010
Foreclosure of mortgage, 715
Formal dinners, wines at 910
Forni of award of arbitrators, ...... 717
•' of bond 716
" of check 705
" of will, ■ 713
Forms for bounty lands, 974
" of bills of sale 979
'• of fruits explained, 463-465
" of indorsements, 706
" of notes, 707
" for remitting funds, . " 711
Fowl pot-pie 835
Fowls trespassing, 663
Frame, cold, 495
Fraud in selling a farm, 669
Fraudulent money, 718
Freckles, to remove, 797
Frederick the Great and sparrows, .... 657
Free farm, how to get, 669
PAGE.
Freezing point of fluids, 995
French, American and English money com-
pared, 989
French polish, 796
" phrases and their meaning, . . 952-953
" stew, "... 845
Fried bread, 843
" cakes, ■ 882
" eggs ' . . . • 836
" oysters, 833
" potatoes with eggs, 844
Friendly acceptances, 947
" regrets, 947
Frosting, recipes for s . . . 876
Frozen custard, 874
Fruit beers, 889
" cake, dark 877
" eating birds, 653
" growing, 47
" protection of from insects, 584
" sugar, 248
. " waters, 770
Fruits, chai-acter of 465
" forms explained, 463-465
" in home orchard, 445
" how long to boil, 893
" how to can, . 893
" how preserved, 892-895
" size of 465
" recipe for brandying, 899
" to dry, 898
Frying in boiling fat, 833
Fuel in the kitchen, 815
Fuller's rose beetle, remedy for 644
Fumigating clothing and rooms, 779
Funeral, etiquette of . . . .' 929
Furnishing the house, ......... 726
Furniture, arrangement of 735
" bruises, to take out, 795
" of dining-room, 746
" of the kitchen, 815-816
" to clean, 796
Furrows, back 65
" for draining, 65
Furs, to preserve, 786
Fusing temperatures of metals, 994
Gama grass, 145
Game laws in old States, 678
'• in new States, . 678
Gang plow, stubble, 64
Garden and orchard, 445-448
" cultivation of sweet potatoes, . . . 245
" lessons, . .• 42
" farm, 296
" potherbs, 502
" small fruits in 502
" structures, 405-407
Gardening by farmers, 492
" green-houses and 500
' ' in spring, 501
" pricking out plants, 499
" starting the hot-bed, 498
" tact, 502
" the moon theory 505
" transplanting in hot-bed, . . . 499
Garments, mending, 755
" next the skin, 759
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1041
PAGE.
Gate, balance, 309
" double-braced, 312
" flood aud water, 314
" rollers lor 311
" self-closing, 310
" slide and swing, 308
" southern, • . . . . 312
strap-hinged, 311
'■ stream, with footway, . . .... 314
Gates and bars, . ... 307
" ornamental, .... .... 313
". sagging, to prevent, 313
Gathering pears, 457
" root crops, 176
Gelatine of meat, . . 818
Gems, fritters, etc. ... 864
•' graham, 860
Genera, species and varieties of grass, . . 155
Gentle flrmness with children, 762
Genus, 158
German puff paste, 862
Germinating temperatures 997
Giblet pie with oysters, . 835
Gingerbread and other "homely" cakes, . . 881
Ginger cake 881
" cookies, 881
" how to know, 969
" snaps • . 881
" species producing it, 969
Glass in canning, caution, 894
Glazing for cakes, 876
Glossary of architectural terms, "... 384-392
Glue, recipes for 799
Glycerine ointment, 798
Going to bed, 738
table, . . : 906
Gold cake, 880
•■ chains, to clean, 797
Qolden hell (Forsythia), 519
" rules in etiquette, 914
Gooseberries, 472
Gooseberry jam, 896
Gothic cottage, English, 400
Goubers or peanuts, 241
Grade, altering 347
Gradients of drains, 342
Grading the ditch, 343
" the necessary fall, ....... 348
" the proper slope, 343
Grafts and cuttings harbor insect eggs, . 580
Grafter's art, 482
Grafting and budding 481-490
" by approach, 483
" directions for 482
" old orchards, 484
" on the farm, 482
" the grape, 489
" tools, „„■ 483
« wax, 482, 485
" " to make, 485
Graham bread, 857
Grain drills, ^^
'• general conclusions, . ■ 9°
'■ pedigree 97
•• plant-louse, 596
" shocking, 96
Granaries, • • • ^^^^
" contents of 1000
66
PAGE.
Granary, rat-proof, 422
Granivorous bii'ds, 655
Grandmother's strawberry short-cake, . . . 865
Grape, grafting, 489
" jelly, . . . . ■ 897
" phyloxera, ' 641
" sugar, 248
Grapes, American species of 473
for farmers, 474
'• preserved with honey, 899
Grape-vine borers, 641
" flea-beetle, 642
Grass blossoms, 134
" family, 158
" genera, species and varieties of . . . 155
" how to know it, 133
" is king, 132
" on timbered .farms, 285
" scientiflc classification, 133
" seeds, crops of 80
" value of 132
Grasses, bent, . . 159
" disapiJearance of native, .... 146
" experimental patches of 135
" favorite pasture, 158
" flowering, illustrated, .... 136-141
" for arable loams, . . .... 153
" for dry soils, 142, 154
" for hay and pasture, 143
for meadow soils, ... •. • • 152
" for moist soils, . 142
" for overflowed lands, 152
for the South, 146-150
" for various regions, 160
" for wet, undrained soils, 153
'illustrated 134-160
list of good 143
" special for Alabama, 160
" " California, 160
" " Florida 160
" " Georgia, 160
" " Idaho and Montana, . . 160
" " Louisiana, ...... 160
" " Mississippi, 160
" " Texas, 160
" " Washington Territory, . 160
" " Oregon, 160
" value of interchange of . . . 166
Woburn tables 156-157
Grasshopper or locust, 634
Grass- worm, remedies for 626
Gray tree-bug, 602
Grease-spots on wood, , 784
" " taken from carpets, 796
Grease, to remove, 788
Grecian agriculture, 48
Grecian drainage, . 325
Greek implements, ancient, 48
Greenback paper, . . 718
Green coloring for cotton, .... . . 801
Green fodder, to feed, 169
Green tree-bug 603
Griddle-cake, flour, ... 882
Grinding soils, implement for 69
Ground beetles, 649
" plan of barn and sheds, 417
" " cottage, 367
" " of crib and granary, 424
1042
THE HOME AXD FARJI MANUAL.
Giouud plan of English cottage, 401
■•of granary 424
■' of hog barn, . ... . 421
" sheep barn and yards, .... 420
t\oor of horse barn, 373
Grouping farm buildings, 414-415
Grove, how to plant, 280
Groves and wind-breaks, . . . . . 280
Growth of timber, . 571
Gruel of groats, 769
Gruels, to make, . . . . 709
Guard against swindlers 703
Guest rooms, . . .... . . 737
Guests, behavior of 738
'• how to receive, ... . 905
of the family, 737
Guinea grass, 149
Hair stimulant, . . . 797
'■ wash, 798
Ham, how to carve, . . . . .... 748
how to bake, 831
Hanging pork 809-810
Hard and soft ground crops, 83
" soils 286
Hardening tallow, ... 791
plants, 495
Hardiness of the pear 457
Harlequin cabbage bug, .... ... 602
Harrow, double, ... 68
rotary. . . 68
Harrowing corn, . 112
Harvesting, ancient. ... 55
barley, 103
flax 204
hemp, .... ...'.. 205
jute, 208
•' machinery, 73
'• peanuts, ... 242
potatoes, . 505
rice 129
'• root crops, 175
wheat 96
Hatching fish 564
•' silk-worm eggs, 215
Hawks, 653
Hay and pasture grasses, 143
•' rack, to make, . . . 436
Heat and its effects, 994
•• and ripening of plants, 997
• ' table of degrees of 994
Heating the oven, . . ."'57
Heavy stones, to move, 4:^7
' wooded pine, . 547
Hedge and ditch fence, 306
" arbor vitse, 320
barbeny .... 321
Cherokee rose, 321
" cultivation of 318
" deciduous, care of 322
hemlock 320
Japan quince, 321
laying down, 318
locust, 317
"NTorway spruce, 319
Osage orange, 319
plants, 317-321
to plant 317
PAGE.
Hedge privet, 321
row, to prepare, 317
" trimming of 318
" white thorn, 321
Hedges, ornamental, 319
" poetry of 316
use of . ... ..... 316
Heeling in trees 451
Helps in washing, 787
Hemlock hedge, 320
Hemp and flax, conclusions on 207
" and its cultivation, .204
" for its lint, 205
" harvesting of 205
'■ male and female plants of 204
" preparing for market, 200
" sexes of plants, 205
Hen's-nest pudding, 870
Hickory-bark coloring, 803
Hickory-nut cake, 881
Hiding the seed corn, 45
Hidden drains, 327
Hillside cottage, . . • . . 372
" fence, 307
Hints for dinner-givers, 911
'■ for dinner use 908
Hired help — specific wages, 668
Hitching three abreast, . 278
Hog barn with wings, 421
Hog figui-ed for cutting 810
Home and its adornment, 40
" and its charms, 33
'• and the children 35
" and the husband, 34
and the wife 34
'■ comforts to-day 42
'■ made beautiful, 725
" of the pioneer 38
'■ orchard, arrangement of ... . 445-448
Home-like cottage, ' 399
Homely pie, 864
Homestead, comfort in, 271
■' improving the 361
" its Improvement, 41
" how to acquire, 670
" law 670
" in after life 39
Hominy pudding 869
Honeysuckle (lonicera), 527
Hop crop, preparing for 224
" tea, 770
'• yeast, ... . . 855
Hops after drying, 230
" care in crop years 227
' ' cooling room for, 230
" cost of raising, 223
'■ drving by hot air, 229
" kiln-diying, 228
'• male and female plants, 226
" new plantation, cultivation of ... . 226
•' picking, 227
" planting the sets, 226
" proper situation and soil, 226
" the dry-kiln, 229
" trenching for 225
Hop-growing in America, 223
Hop-kiln, management of 229
Hop-yard 224
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1043
PAGE.
Hop-yard, care of 227
Horse, agreement for sale of 976
" aud cow barn 416
" barn, ground floor of 373
" chestnuts (cesculus), 528
" hoe, 71
Horse-radish vinegar, 852
Horses, strength of 1003
Horticulture, divisions of 47
Hot-bed, materials for 497
" pressure of 498
" pricking out plants, 499
soil for 498
'• to make, 498
" water and ventilation, 500
winter forcing, 499
Hot-beds and dry-house, 408
Hotch-potch, 828
House cisterns, 732
" cleaning, 735, 794
" drainage, 374
" in Italian style, 399
'• how to build, 369
ventilation, 374
Household art and taste, 725
hints, 795
" recipes, 780
Housewife's equivalents, . . 882
Human force applied, 994
Hunters trespassing, 662
Hygiene of bedding, 726
Husbandry and clover, 160
" animal, 47
field, 47
Husking corn, 115
" " from the hill, 115
Hybrids explained, 158
Ice cream, ... 890
" and water ices, 889
" icing for cake, 877
Ice-house and preservatory, . . . 373
" on the farm, 410
Iceland inoss jelly .... 769
Idleness from bad training, 39
Ignorance vs. intelligence, 84
Icing, glazing and ornamenting, .... 876
Illinois experience in drainage, 332
Illustrations of wheat, 93
Imitation chutney, best, 849
" Worcestershire sauce, 851
Immigration into the United States, . . . 1020
Implements for draining, .... 342-345, 350
" of cultivation 70
Important business rules, 704
" papers, to draw, . . . ■ ■ 712
" points in root culture, 174
■' "on sorghum, 254
Improved land. United States, 1011
" implements for cotton crop, . . . 199
" implements of to-day, . . . . 61-73
Improving the farm, 272, 285
" the homestead, 3bl
the homestead, 41
" timbered farm, 285
Impurities in water, tests for 777
Indelible ink, 799
" '• for brushes, 799
PAGE.
Indenture of .ipprenticeship, 971
Indian corn, ancient and modern, 45
" " (see corn).
" " corn, products of 962
method of saving corn, 46
pickles, 847
Indorsements, form of 706
Infants and their food, 762
Informal dinners, rules lor 905
Ingenious and useful ornaments, 744
Injury to stock through trespass, 663
Ink on bank bills, 718
" not injured by freezing, 799
" spots on marble, 784
" for zinc labels, 799
Inks, home-made, 798
Insect nomenclature, ... ... 590-592
" " abdomen, 592
" " head, 590
•' " legs, 592
" " thorax, .... . 591
" " wings, 591
Insect borers, in soils, 348
" transformations, 590
" variation, . 591
Insectivorous birds, 654
Insects aud the nursery, second year, . . . 581
" changing food with age, 593
" classification of 588
" destroying books, 786
" " grass, 617
" division of, by food, 593
" eggs on grafts and cuttings 580
" eyes of 589
" hand-picking for 581
" herbivarous, 593
" injuring clover, 617-620
" " conifeious trees, . . . 639-641
" fruit trees, 642-645
" plants, 645-647
" " the grape, 641-642
trees, 637-644
" in the soil, 580
" injurious, 594
" muscles of 589
" natural economy of 650
" nervous system of 589
" noxious, 594
" study of . 585-588
" vs. birds, 579
Irregular areas, to plow 73
Interest at any rate per cent, to find, . . . 1016
" money, growth of 1017
table, six per cent, 1016
Intoxicating varieties of pepper, 968
Inti-oduction, letters of ... . ... 948
Introductions, etiquette of 920-922
Invalid cooking, rules for 765
" drinks, 770
Invitation to dinner, form for 945
" for a drive, 947
Invitations, friendly, 947
Irish stew, 826
Iron rust, to remove, . 790
Italian house, with tower, 398
Ivory-nut plant, .... . .... 555
Ivory, to whiten, 797
Ivy (Hedera), 527
1044
THE HOME AND FAEM MANTJAL.
PAGE.
Jam of fruits, 895-896
Japan clover (Lespedeza) , 164
'■ quince hedge, 321
'■ (Cydonia), 518
Japanese silk-worm eggs best, 214
Jellies, rules for 897
Jelly -making, rules for 896-897
Jerusalem artichoke, 177
Judgment notes, 707
" in building details, 370
June roses, . 517
Juniper, web-worm, 641
Jute, cultivation of 207-208
" harvesting, 208
" preparing the fiber, 20S
" soil and climate for _ . 208
species of ' . 207
Kalsomiue, to prepare, 793
Kalsomining, 734, 793
Kentuckian's bill of fare, 761
Kentucky corn-bread, . . 858
Kerosene, care of . . . 786
" test for 786
Killing beef on the farm, 813
" silk-worms in cocoons, 219
Kitchen, arrangement of 815
" chemistiy, . . . , 817
floor, 815
furniture, . . 731
" gardening, 499
" utensils, list of 816
" walls and ceiling, 815
Klippart's twelve pi-opositions on di-aining, . 857
Lady fingers, 879
" birds, 647
" " California varieties of 647
Ladies traveling, rules for the escort, . . . 935
" dress, 757
Lamb, age for killing, 812
" to cut up, 812
Land acquired under aU acts, 671
" areas and contents, 998
" bugs, 604
" game birds, 654
" m United States, 1011
Landlord's agreement, 713
" certificate of lease, 294
Lands, how described, ■ . . . 669
" in each State and Territory, . . . 1012
" public, how obtained, 699
" requiring drainage, 355
" yet open to settlement, 672
Landscape, deciduous trees, 547-555
" " " ash, 549
" " " beech, .... 550
" " " birch, 550
" " " elm, 555
" " " linden, .... 553
" " " maple, ... 548
" " " persimmon, 582, 556
" " " sycamore, . . . 548
" " " yellowwood, . . 554
" gardening, 40, 535-556
" " in villages, .... 535
" gardener's art, 535
" effects, 545
PAGE.
Landscape effect, Lincoln Park, 543
" planting trees for ...... 546
" trees, evergreen, .... 546-547
" " maples, 548
Lard candles, ......: 791
Lark, 654
Laterals connected with mains, 349
Law forms, 971
" " for business matters, . . . 703-721
" governing farm animals, 661
" relating to specific ^\ork, 66S
Laws farmers should study, 674
" relating to dogs, 679-685
" " to stock and estrays 683
Layering the vine, . . , 490
Laying down carpets, 733
" out a farm. ... 295
" out an orchard, 449
" out curves of walks and drives, . . . 539
" out flower beds, 541
Lead in water, test for 777
Leaf-hoppers, 623
" remedies for 623
Leaf-rollers, remedies for 643
Lease, short form, 712
" and certificates, forms for . . . . ■ . 293
" chattel security, 294
Leasing a farm, 292
Leaves for flavoring, 846
Lebia grandis, 649-650
Lemonade, to make 888
Lemon pie without lemon, 864
" good, 864
Lemons, syrup of 899
Letter writers, suggestions for 950
Letters, addressing, 949
" copies should be kept, 704
" dating, 950
" of Introduction, 738, 948
" of recommendation, 948
Lettuce salad, 841
Leveling cranberiy bogs, 477
" drains from the surface, 346
" the bottom of drains, . ... 344
Liability fiom act on own land injuring others, 667
" ■ of dealers, 667
Library, the 737
Lice, plant- (aphides) 595-597
Licensed dogs, 662
Life government, Washington's rules, . . 910
" mean duration of 1017
Light, plain paste 835
Lime and sulphur for insects, ..."... 581
" tree winter moth, remedies for .... 643
Lincoln Park, Chicago, flower garden, . . . 542
Linden or lime, 553
Linseed tea, ... . . . . ' ... 770
Liquid or wine measure, 987
Little-lined plant-bugs, 609
Live stock. Great Britain and United States, 1010
Loam and dry soil grasses 152
Local markets for vegetables, 494
Locust hedge, ; 317
Locust, American, 634
" destroying the eggs, 635
" killing young, Q'A')
" map of infested districts, . . . 632-033
" not cicada, 634
ALPHABETICAL, AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1045
PAGE.
Locust or grasshopper, remedies for . . . 634
or hateful grasshopper, 634
" the liiley gatherer, 635
trapping, G35
Log-lionse, fhiuiiing, -284
\ " furryiiig up the sides, . . . . 283
" laying the foundation, . . . 282
the fa'replace, 284
the roof, 283
Looking glasses, to clean, 795
Longitude and time compared, . ... 1U07
Long measure, surveyor's, 985
'■ stai)le cotton, 195
Lucerjie (.l//«?(/VO, 1G3
Luncheon liow to serve, ... .... 913
'• invitation for 913
Lyme grasses, 146
Jlacaroni and clieese, 844
JIaue and nutmegs, . . 969
Magnolia, ..... 528
Mago on working cattle, 49-
Maine game laws, . 675
Mammoth red clover, 161
Management of hop-kiln, 229
" of rice fields, 126
Jlangel-wurzel, 175
Mamired tobacco, south, .... ... 232
Manures, ancient commercial, 56
" ijreparation of 56
Manuring by the ancients, 55
'■ by sheep, south, • 81
Maize and its products, . . 962
■' (see corn.)
Jlap of the farm 296
Maph:' sap, how long to boil, 268
" sugar, 266
" " boiling sap, , 266
" buckets for sap 266
'• " gathering tubs, 267
" " storing tubs . . 267
" " sugaring oft, . . ... 268
" " tapping the trees, . ... 267
" '• when done, 268
Marble, to clean, .... 783
cake 879
Marketing si Ik- worm cocoons or eggs, . 220-221
Market garden 499
beginning one, 494
" preparing vegetables for .... 503
vegetables, what to grow, . . . . 501
Market prices, 289
Markets for vegetables, 494
Marriage procession, ' 933
'■ settlement, . ■ , 369
'■ iji church, ceremony, .... 933
Married women, obligation for 712
Masonry and masons' work, . ... 377
Massacluisetts game law, 675
]\Iassing trees, 539
Materials for budding, 487
'■ for building, 376
Mayoniniise sauce 8-tO
May beetle, remedy for 648
Maxims for business 719
Meadow, a rich, ■ 53
Meadow grasses, tables of ... . lo2
" ■' summary of . . . . 1^)4
PAGE.
Meadow-sweet (spirea), . . . ■ , ■ 524
Meadows, Eoman, irrigation of 52
" seeding, 150'
Meals timed by common sense, 913
Measures of tune, 1007
Meat and onion stew, 827
" and vegetables," 818
" jellies, , .... 768
" pies, crust for 834
'• " pastry for . . .• 834
'■ potvpie, 834
" thickness of for broiling, 832
" to roast, 829
Mechanics on the farm, ...... 426-441
" lien, 980
" tools, 427
Medicinal teas 770
Melon worm, remedy for 645
Melted butter, 838
Mending clothes, . ... 755
Merino, to clean, 789
Mercantile terms, definition of ... . 720-721
Metals, gravity of 993
" inelting points of . . 993
Meter explained, 984
Metric and English system compared, . . 984
" avoirdupois comparison, 988
" " weight, 988
" cubic measure and equivalents, . . . 986
'• dry " '■ ... 986
" equivalents, apothecaries' weight, . . 989
" " Troy weight, . . . .988
" liquid measure and equivalents, . . . 987
" long measure, 985
measure, multiples of 984
" square measure and equivalents, . . . 985
" system, 983
" terms, abbreviations of • 984
Mexican clover (JRwhardsonia) , 165
Michigan, draining in ... , .... 331
" game laws, ... 678
Middle States, fence laws, . • . . . . 697
" stock laws, 686-687
Milk bread, 857
Millet and Hungarian grass, 170-171
Minced-liver, . . '. 844
Mince-meat, 863
Mince-pies, with and without cider, .... 863
Minnesota game laws, ... 678
Mistakes in fish culture, 558
Mixed horticulture, 47
Mixed pickles, ..... . 849
Mock orange {Syringa) . 522
Model silos, cost of 192
Modern farm implements, 61
Modified feeding floor, 417
Moist soil grasses, 142
Molasses candy, , 890
Money at interest, growth of . . . . 1017
" by express, .... 711
" bv letter, 711
" tables 989
" spurious, 719
Moon-seed (Mi'iiispermmn), 527
Moral duties of parents, 39
Mordants for dyes, 800
Mortality rates, . 1018
Mortgage, short form, 715
1046
THE HOllE AND FARM MAXUAL.
Mortising, gauge for 302
posts, 302
Moss-roses, 514
Moss and cuiTant jelly, 769
Moths, in clothes and Inrs, 785
" night-flying, to kiU, 622
■' to eradicate, 786
Moulting of silk- worms, 217
Mound builders, the 46
Mushrooms, edible, 845
'■ testing, 845
Musical party, invitation to 945
Mustard, to mix ... 852
Mutton and lamb, 811
" boiled, 826
" broth, 822
" to carve, 749
" when best, 811
683-
Names ol the parts of tlie vine,
Ifapkins, to fold,
' use of
Native grasses, disappearance of . ,
western grasses,
" wines at dinner,
Nature the guide,
Nature's classic halls,
Nectarines described, ......
" difficulties of cultivation,
Needed reforms in farm law, . . ,
New England States fence laws, . .
" " stock laws, .
New Hampshire game laws,
New Jersey " "
New York " "
Newport cake,
New Year's calls,
Night-fljdng moths, to kill,
Norman farm implements,
Norway spruce hedge,
Note payable to bearer,
" with sui'ety,
Notes, forms of
" jointly and sevei-ally,
" ■ remarks on
Notice against trespassing,
•' to quit
Nur^erv and insects, second year's cultivation,
Nursery bathing,
" the
" ti'ees, destroying insects on ... .
" '■ proper forms, ....
Nursing weak patients,
Nutmegs and mace,
Nutritive equivalents, table of . .
476
753
753
146
144
910
761
39
467
467
674
•697
-686
675
677
676
879
918
622
59
319
707
707
707
707
709
662
713
582
762
47
579
452
765
969
1013
Oatmeal breakfast cake, 860
" gi-uel, 770
porridge, 867
pudding 867
Oats and their cultivation, 105
■■ and their products, . . ... . 962
■• best soils for 107
" seed per acre, 107
" species of 106
" threshing 107
" time of harvest, 107
" time of sowing, 106
PACE.
Oats, valuable varieties, . ' . . 106
" when to sow, 106
Obligation of married women, 712
Obstructions in roads, . . , 665
Officers of the United States, pay of . . . 1021
Ohio game laws, 677
•■ farmer on draining , . . . . .330
Oil-cloths, to lay down, 797
Okra soup, . 822
Old house, remodeling, • . . 364
Omelets, to make, 836
Omnivorous birds, 654
Onion sauce 839
Oriole, 654
Ornamental cottage. 396
" " ground plan, . . . . 396
gates, 313
" grasses, . 533
•' hedges, 319
" " planting, 322
'■ trellises, 534
" trees 538-556
Ornamentation, modest, . 740
Ornamenting cakes, 876
Open drains, 327
" " proper form, 333
Orange-leaf notcher, remedy for . . . . 644
Orange cake, . . 879
" marmalade, 895
' scale insects, remedies for 598
•' pudding, . 873
Orangeade, . 770
Orchard and garden, 445
" cultivation destroys insects, .... 580
•' digging the holes, 449
" fruits, picking and packing, . . . 472
" how to prepare for 448
" laying out and planting,' 449
" peach, 466
" pear, 457
planting of 445
root pruning, 450
■' the 281
trees to plant, 281
" " transplanting, 281
" '• when to buy, ... . . 451
'■ " when to plant, 452
Orchards, grafting old 484
Orders, forms of 708
Orkney Islands plowing, 59
Osage orange hedge, 319
" " sphinx, . . 639
Osmazone of meat, 818
Outline for specifications for buildings, . . . 377
Out-houses 407-413
Oven, heating the 857
Overworked wife, the 36
Owls, 653
Oxford dumplings, 869
Ox-gall and lye for cleaning marble, . . . .783
Ox, how to cut up 814
Oxygen, absorption of by soil, 86
Oyster fritters, 833
pies, .... .... 835
salad 842
soup, plain, 824
" rich, 824
stew, 824
ALPHABETICAL AND A>iALYTlCAL IXDEX.
1047
PAGE.
Pacific States fence laws, 702
Packing orcliard fruits, 472
Paint, inside, recipe for 793
'■ shop of the farm, 434
Painting-, . . 734
'• " time for outside work, . . 793
Paintings and engravings, 727
Palladins and agriculture 50
Pan fisb, to serve, 751
Panicuni varieties of . . .... . 149
Papering walls, 792
Parlor decorations, . 740
" etiquette, . 737
lectures, rules for . ... . 926
" plants 728
Parsnip fritters, 84 1
Party etiquette, . 923-924
Paste that will keep, 800
Pasture grasses, . . . . . 132, 166
Pastures, ancient, ... 52
•' first, 280
■' 'peumanent, . 280
Pasturing and soiling compared, ... . 167
Pastry, to make, . 862
Pay of officers of the United States, . . . 1021
Peach culture, .... ... 466
" marmalade, 895
" orchard, 466
" pie 863-864
" yellows in . . . . • 466
Peaches, curl in 466
" illustrated, 463-465
planting, -. 466
" some good varieties, .... 466-467
Peas, products of 963
Pea-soup, 823
Peanuts, cultivation of 241
" harvesting, 242
" or goubers, 241
shocking, • . . . 242
save good seed, . . 243
Pears, varieties illustrated, .... 457-462
" bonne du puits ansault, 458
" Dix, 460
" Frederic Clapp, 458
" gathering, 457
" Howell, 458
" little Marguerite, 462
" on quince stock, 457
" paradise d' Auto nine, 462
" uncertainty of 457
'■ varieties and cultivation, 457
Pedigree grain, .97
Peep holes over drains, 347
Pennsylvania game laws, 677
Pepper and its adulterations, 968
Perennial flowers, select list of 513
Performance of obligations, 381
Permanent pastures, 280
Perpetual roses, 515
Persimmon (diaspyras), 532
Philosophy of etiquette, 903
Phosphate and potash crops, 83
Piccalilli 849
Pickled red cabbage, 847
Pickles, mixed, 8f9
" sweet, 850
" without vinegar, 848
PAGE,
Picking and curing cranberries, . ... 480
" and packing orchard fruits, .... 472
" hops, 227
Picnic, invitation to 947
Pictures for the dining-room, 730
Pies and pie-making, 862-865
" for dyspeptics, 862
Pineapple short-cake 866
Pink color for woolens, 802
Pine-tree borer, . 639
Pioneer cottage, cost of 272
" ■ " to build, 273
'• farming, . . . 271
Pioneer's plow, a . . 61
'• rude home, ... 38
Pit silos, difficulties of ISO
Pitting and cellaring roots, 176
Plain farm-house, 393
" oyster soup, 824
" paste, 862
" sauce, 866
Plan for secluded grounds, 538
" of plain bouse, two diagrams, . . . 394
" of rural grounds, . 402
Plank soil grinder, ... 69
Plantations of timber, . .... . 280
Planting corn, . 112
" cranberries, 478
" flower beds, 541
" -'in the moon," 505
" ornamental hedge, 321
" ramie, .209
sweet potato slijas, . . 244
'■ the hedge, ... 317
the hop-yard, . . , 226
" the orchard, . . 449
" village lots, 538
Plant bugs, .... 601-607
'■ classification of 601
•' remedies for 607-608
Plant-lice, 595-597
'■ remedies for .... .... 597
Plants and seeds per acre, to. crop, . . 1006
•' and vines, flowering, ...... 514
" for carpet bedding, ... ... 541
" for hedging, 317-321
" for the dinmg-room, . . . . 729
" heat for ripening, 997
" per acre, various distances, . . . 1008
per square rod, . . 1009
" temperatures proper for 996
" to raise, number of . . . . . 495
value of interchange, ... . . 166
" wet weather, 356-358
Plashing the hedge, 318
Play hours for youth, 38
Pliny's agricultm-al writings, 50
Plover, .654
Plow and pasture land 291
" attachments for trash, 63
" of Jethro Wood, 61
" of to-day, 62
" scooter, . . 201
" Webster's, . . . . ' 62
" with chain, .... 63
Plowing, art of 63
" and fertilizing cotton soils, .... 200
■' by steam, 60
1048
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
PAGE.
Plowing, irregular areas, 73
" of the Romans, ... .... 57
" subsoil, 66
sward, . . . .... 65
table of, 1004
'' trench, 67
" without dead furrows, 74
Plows, ancient, . . . 57
" first steel, 61
Plum, flowering, 523
' marmalade, . . . . ... 895
■' pudding, English, 867
Plums, preserved without the skins, .... 898
Poetry of hedges, .... 316
" of the forest, 574
Points on business law, 719
Poisons and their antidotes, 777-778
Polish for collars, cuffs, etc., 789
Polishing starched linen, 788
Pomology, definition of ........ 47
Pond and river fish, families of ... . 560-561
Pond fish of the West, 560
Ponds and drains, ... 335
'■ breeding fish in 567
"• to make from drainage, 335
Population of countries, ... ... 1019
" square mile of countries, . . . 1019
Pork cake, 882
Portable fence of wire, . 307
fences, 304-307
Post-and-rail fence, 301
Posts, fence, best, ... 301
" " mortising, 302
" " setting the 303
" to split, ■ . . 302
Potash and phosphate crops, S3
Potato bread, 857-858
" croquettes, • 842
" crust, 835
" pie 865
" salad, 841
Potato-growing States, 964
Potatoes, how to raise, . . . .... 504
" products of 963
" to harvest, 505
'• varieties illustrated, 506
" when to plant, 505
Pot herbs in the garden 502
Pot-pie, meat, 834
" chicken, 835
Poultry houses, . . 409
Pound cake, rich, 878
Pounds, per bushel, of grass seeds, .... 152
Power of attorney, proxy to vote, . • . . . 980
" " revocation of 980
" " short form, 980
Powers of attorney, what for 714
Practical conclusions, ensilage feeding, . . 193
" test of fertility, 77
" aims 43
Prairie breaking, 65
Precedence, rules of 936
Predatory bii'ds 585
" insects, 585
Preemption law, 670
Prehistoric people, ... 46
Preparation of ginger, 969
Prepared dishes baked, 833
^ PAGE.
Preparing cotton soils, . . 199
" hop-yard, ...,.., .225
" jute fiber, . , 208
" wheat soils, 92
Preserving in sugar, 894
pork, !>09-810
" rules for 892
" scions, . . • 485
Preservatory and ice-house, 373
Preservation of health, 761
Prices per pound and ton, table of . . . 1015
Principles and practice in agriculture, ... 75
Printing and agriculture, 44
Primary school-house, 404
Private weddings, how conducted, .... 933
Privet hedge, 321
Privies without smell, 411
Products of barley, 962
" of beans, 963
" of maize 962
'• of oats, 962
" of peas, 963
'• of potatoes, 963
" of lye 961
Production of silk-worm eggs, 213
Profitable silk regions, 212
Programmes at dances, 923
Promiscuous introductions, . 921
Pi'omises inviolable, 704
Propagation of vines by cuttings, 490
Propagating pit, 408
Property may not be left in road, 665
Proportion of ears to shelled corn, . . . .999
Proportionate doses, 775
Protection,. trees for 822-323
Protecting cribs from rats, 425
" useful birds, ......... 679
" " insects, 588
" buds in winter, 489
Protectors for trees, 539
Protests of notes, drafts, etc 710
Proverbial salad, 840
Providing for children, 369
Proximate principles, grains, 1013
" " grass, 1014
Proxies, ' . . 981
Pruning apple-trees, 453
Public debt. United States, ninety years, . . 1022
'• land, how divided, 670
" lands, how acquired, 669-673
" " how disposed of, 669
" roadways and public rights, .... 664
Puddings, 769, 866
" and their sauces, 866-869
fruit, 870-872
" grain, etc 872-874
" potato, 868
Puff paste, fine, 862
Puffs, breakfast, 860
Pulse family, importance of ] 65
Pumpkin pie 862
" " plain, 865
Pure water as a beverage, 884
Putty, to soften, .... 794
Qualified indorsement, 706
Quaker pudding, 869
Quick pickles, 847
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
104!)
PAGE.
Quilting frame, 745
Quinoe, J.apaii, 518
"• stocks for pears, 457
" marmalade, 895
Eadiating, variousjsubstances, 996
Kainfall on the plains, 1002
" United States, . • 1001
Kails, sharpening, 302
Kailway fences and trespass, 663
" right of way, 664
Kailways running through farms, . . . » ^64
Kaising-bee, 283
Eaising fish in ponds, 567
'■ hemp for lint, 205
" hemp-seed, 204
" potatoes, 504
tobacco. South, 232
Kaisin pie, 864
Kamie a perennial plant, 210
" fiber, 209
" in the United States, 209
" soil for and planting, 209
Rapacious birds, 653
Kaspberry jam , 896
" syrup, 897
" vinegar, . . 852
Easpherries, care of 472
Eat-proof cribs, 423
Eates of mortality, 1018
Kaw beef tea, to make 767
Eeaping machines, ancient, 55
Eeceipts, forms of ... . 708
" 1 importance of taking 710
in fill], 710
Eecipe for brandying fruits, 899
" for hard soap, 790
" for whitewash, . . • 734
Eeoipes for household, 780-805
Eecommendation, general letter of . . . . 948
" special letter of 948
Eeceiving calls, . 918
Eeception cards, ... .... . . 952
- Eeceptions, wedding, 934
Eed l3ug (cotton stainer), 608
'' remedy for 608
Eed Altringham carrot, 177
" cabbage, pickled, 847
" clovers, varieties of 161-162
" coloring for cotton, 801
" wine, how served, 910
Eeeling silk .... 220
Eefining sorghum sugar, 265
Eefusing favor asked, 949
Eegrets at non-acceptance, 946
•' forms for . 948
Eelease and discharge, -mechanics' lien, . . 980
" of mortgage ■ ■ • • 715
Eeligions of the earth, census of ... . W20
Eehsh for lunch, ■ ■ • , ■■ ^f ^
Eemedies for the sick, . ▼ '' J,t
Remittances, charges on 712
" how made, 711
Eemodeled farm-house, 364
" ground plan, 365
Eemodeling the old house, 363
Eenovating carpets 736
Rent of farm, security for 295
PAGE.
Eepairing garments, 755
" implements, 433
" on the farm, • . 428
Ee-plowing, 66
Eeproduction by grafting and budding, . . . 481
" from cuttings, 481
" from seedlings, 481
Eesoue (brome) grass, 150
Restoring furniture, 796
Restrictive indorsement, 706
Revocation of power of attorney, . ... 980
Rhode Island game laws, 675
Rhodotypus, 525
Rhubarb pies, 863
Rice and its cultivation, 12.3-129
" croquettes, ... 844
" cake 880
" fields, management of 126
" harvesting and thi'eshing, 129
" hulling, 130
" in the Mississipisi delta, 130
" maggot, 128
" origfn of 123
" pudding without eggs, 872
" seed and seeding, 127
" stalk-borer, 625
" swamp species, ... 123
" to boil 826
" upland, northern limit 123
" A\nter with raisins, . 770
" wild, description of 123
Riding and driving etiquette, 922
Right and wrong way of draining, .... 333
" of way by railways, .... . . 664
" " by sale, '. . . . .666
" " by use, 606
" " over other's lands 665
Rights over others' lands, how acquired, . 666
Ripe cucumber pickles, ... ... 850
" fruit pickles, 850
" meat, meaning of 810
" tomato l^ickles, ... .' . . . 850
River aod pond fish, families, .... 560-561
" fish of the ^N'est, 560
Rizena pudding, 872
Road officers' ]-ights, . . 664
'• rights, limits to . 666
Roads are for the public, 665
" keeping in order, .... . . 540
" when obstructed, 665
Roast beef, to carve . . 748
" " how to prepare, ....'. . 830
" fowl, 830
" pig, to carve 749
" turkey, 830
Roasted meat, . . 829
Roasting and boiling, time required lor . . . 767
'• coffee, . ....■..., 886
" meats, 768
Rocking-chair .and its covering, . . . 741
Rocky Mountain locust, , 634
Roller, iron, 69
Eoll jelly-cake_, . 878
Rolls and biscuits, 854
Rollers for gates, 311
Roman agriculture, .49
" barley, . 53
crops, 54
1050
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
PAGE.
Koman manures, 55
•' plowing, 57
rotation ... 53
seeding, 54, 58
" threshing, 55
wheat, . . o^
Eoof , putting on 283
'• to shingle, 436
Root crops, clean, rich land necessar}-, . . .174
" " cultivating, 174
" " fall plowing necessary for . . . 174
" " for forage, 173
" " harvesting, 175
" " preparation for 174
" " cost of raising per acre, . . . .174
" " singling or separating plants, . . 175
" ■' weeding, 175
" grafting, 482
•' lice, 597
" pruning, . 450
Kopes, strength of . . 993
Koses, autumn, 516
" June, 517
'• moss, . . 514
'• perpetual, 515
" tea, 515
Rotting flax straw, 204
" hemp, . . 206
Rough buildings, to erect 435
'• land, 276
Round cisterns, contents of 1000
Rubbish harbors insects, . , 580
Rotation, a simple, 78
a southern, 81
" and bad seasons, .... . . 79
' ' an eastern, 80
■' European, 82
" elaborate, . 79
•' and crops, . . 78
•' system in 80
substitution in S2
" table of 79
Rotary harrow, ... 68
Rnles for conduct of funerals, 929
•' for evening calls, 916
for invalid cooking, 765
" for general guidance, 928
" for informal dinners, 905
" in making jellies, . 896
' ' for parlor lectures, 926
for preserving, 892
'• for suieess of the dinner, .... 904
for tobacco growers 241
•' of conduct in traveling 934
•' of etiquette, seventy-live cardinal 954-957
" of table usage, 908-910
" of guidance in business, 704
relating to banking, .... . 705
Rural architecture, 361
" buildings, 393
" grounds plan of . 401
home, 397
•' '■ ground plan, 397
En-tic seats, 406
Rusks and rolls, 861
Rye and its cultivation, 101
'"' and its products, 961
" and Indian bread, 8.58
PAGE.
Rye, best soil, 102
" bread, 857
" hai-vest time, ... 102
"• Montana spring, 101
" seed per acre, 102
" sowing time, 102
" uses of in United States, 101
Saddle grafting, 482
Sagging gates, to prevent, 813
Sago and its preparation, 964
" ^ whence derived, ... 964
Salaries, to calculate, 1018
Salad dressing, simple, ; . . 841
" of meat, fowl and fish, ..."■... 841
Salads and their dressing, 840-842
Salmon croquettes, 844
Salt hop yeast, 856
Salt rising, 856
Sandwiches, 844
Salutations, 922
recognition of 922
Sand and cranberry growing, 477
" in soils, per cent, 85
Sap buckets and tubs, 266
" frothing over, 268
Sashes, to tighten, 796
Sauce for boiled meats, 826
" for boiled pudding, 866
for cold meat, 839
for fish and fowl, .... ... 838
•' for fowl, ... 840
" for hen's-nest pudding, 870
" for roast meat, . . 839
" of many names, 840
" white, 839, 866
Sauces and gravies, . 838-840
" for puddings, 866
Savage agriculture, 44
Scale insects, 597-601
California, remedies for . . .601
Scarlet dye for woolens, . . 802
Science in agriculture, ..." 84
Scions, cutting and saving, 485
" selection of . 489
" time to cut, 489
" to keep, • 489
School-house architecture, 402
" interior, 404
" primary, 404
Scooter plow, 201
Scotch cake 880
Scrambled eggs, ... 836
Scraper for roads, . 540
Secluded grounds, plan for 538
Second year's crop, 279
Section of under-drain, . • 338
Security for rent 296
Seed bed for tobacco, South, . .... 232
" ■■ of sweet potatoes, 244
'• corn, test, . . . ' 117
" crop of clover, 161
" husbandry . . 47
" importance of good, 97
" improvement of, by selection, . ... 98
" peanuts, 243
" potatoes, how to cut, 504
saved in caves, 45
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1051
Seedino- and cultivation, Roman, 58
■' for liay and pasture, 151
macliines, .... 72 _
meadows, . . 150'
Seeds and plants, per acre, to crop, . . 1006
•' per ounce of grasses, 152
•■ to sow 100 yards of drill 1007
•■ vitality of 1009
" value oi interchange of 166
Select biennial flowers, 513
list of flowers, 510-511
Selecting a claim of land, 276
a farm, 290
flour, . . 854
'■ the site, 277
Selling the crop 289
Self-closing gates, 309-3J0
Servants and parlor service, 739
Servants' carving, 907
Service of the table, 751
Setting posts 303
Settler's first home, 41
Settling a new country, 372
Seventeen household facts, 795
Seventy-five rules of etiquette, .... 954-957
Shade trees for villages 537
'• " to save ... 282
" Shall I move the barn?" 274
Sharpening tools, . 432
Sheds and barns for sheep 418
Sheep barn and sheds, 418
" barn and yards, ... .... 419
'■ dipping box, 419, 420
" figured for cutting up, 811
" how to cut up, 811
" rack, 420
Sheltering groves, 572-576
Sherbet, • 771
Shingling a roof, • ■ 436
Shocked corn, field of 115
Shocking corn around tables, ... . . 116
" green-cut forage, 179
" grain, 96
peanuts, -42
Shopping etiquette 937
Short-cake, 881
fruit, 5*65
Short form, bill of sale, 716
" " of lease, 712
'■ " of mortgage, 715
'• ■■ warranty deed, 715
Shrubs, flowering 517
Sick-room, disinfecting, 77o
Side-dish of eggs, °43
Side of beef, to cut up, |!l4
Sight drafts, 710
Signing by mark, ■7.11
Signs used in business, '^^
Silk and silk-worms, ^ii
" reeling the ^f"
" vine (periploca), °^<
Silk-reeling machine, ^i«
Silk-producing insects, ^j^
Silk-worm cocoons, to gather ^jJ
eggs, . ^1^
.1 " hatchmg, . -^i*
a " heat and moisture for . . . 215
11 " keeping, 214
PAGE,
Silk-worms, care of 217
•' feeding, 215
" shelves, 216
'■ food of 221-222
how to kill, 219
" Japanese eggs best, 214
keeping, 214
marketing cocoons and eggs,
220
moulting of 213, 217
•' regions, . . . ... 212
" stages of ... 213
varieties of 214
" ventilation of biiilding, . . . 215
'■ winding frames, . ... 218
Silver bell (halesia) , . . . .... 519
Silt wells, 347
Silo, capacity, . . . . 187
" condition when opened, . . ... 189
" cost of 187
" " filling 188
" covering, . 187
" crops for . 187
" the foundation, 185
" the superstructure, • 186
•' how to build 185
Silos and ensilage, 178-193
" air-tight, modern, .... ... 179
" best form, 181
" condensed facts on 186-191
" cost of perfect, . . .... . 192
" Crevat's experiments, 180
" fermentation in 184
" of earth 180
" pit, illustrated 179
•' practical experience and results, . . . 186
" size of ■ 185
Silver cake, 880
", to clean, 791
Simple dishes, .... 769
" farm-bouse plans, 364
" poisons and their antidotes, .... 777
" sick-room remedies 771
slide-gate, 310
Simplifying law, 674
Sinks and wallows, ... 352
Site, selection of 277
Situation of the farm important, 291
Size of fruits, . . 465
Skim and trench plowing, ... ... 67
Slab and pole drains, . . 340
Sleeping-rooms, . . ... . . 731
Slide and swing gate, ... . ... 308
" gate, self-closing, . 309
Sloughs, so^iks ^ud springs, . ... 353
Small fruits and their cai-e, . . . 472
" grains, ancient, .... .... 53
Smaller cornstalk borer, . . . . 625
Smoke-house, brick, .... ... 413
" wood, 413
Smoke-houses, .... .... 419
Snout beetles, remedies for . . ... 645
Snowball {viburnum), .... .... 525
Soap, home-made, 790
Social party, invitation to . . ... 945
Society, rules for guidance, . . . 914-91.-1
Sod and ditch fence, . . 306
■' to build, 300
" fence, banking, 3('6
1052
THE HOME AND FARM 3IAXUAL.
PAGE.
Soda cakes. 881
Soft aud hard soils, 286
• aud hard ground crops, S3
" gingerhread, • . 881
■■ soap, to make .... ... 790
Soil, analysis unnecessary, 75
and climate for jute, 208
aud cultivation for alfalfa, 164
capabilities, . . . 84
•• for hot-bed 498
•' for sweet potatoes, . 244
grinder, ... 69
•' iiroper for ramie, 209
to test . 277
vegetation an index to .... . 276
Soiling, advantages of 172-173
" compared with pasturing, . . . 167
crops, brown dhoura, 171
'■ crops, common millet, 171
crops. German millet 171
crop, how to raise, . ... . 168
crops, Hungarian, 170
" crops, pearl millet, .171
" crops, prickly comfrey, 172
fodder and root crops, . - . . 167
for dairy districts, 167
'■ i-esults of, in Scotland 173
vs. fencing, . . . . ... 168
-' with clover, 173
with corn and sorghum, 169
Soil?, absorbing power of 86. 996
■' absorption of oxygen, 86
aud situations for tobacco, 231
capacity of, for heat, . 995
capacity of, for water, 348
•' crops, adaptation of, • . . . 2S6
do not wear out, . 76
evaporation of . 996
" for cotton, .... ...... 195
•■ for flax 203
for wheat, 92
organic matter of 996
•■ radiating power of 996
temperature of ... . . . 995
'• unheal thful, 276
'■ valuable, 276
■■ weight of 85
Soiled beds and mattresses, 794
Soldier beetles, ... . ... . 648
bug, 648
Solid or cubic measure, . 986
Sons and daughters on the farm, 37
Sorghum, boiling in vacuum pan, ... . 265
boiling the juice, 264
granulation, .... T ... . 204
cane, cutting and handling, . . . 250
'■ crystalizing and draining, . . . 265
cultivation of, 249-250
for soiling, 169
general conclusions on. . . . 266
important poiuts on, 254
.'• juice, filtering and liming, . . . . 264
specific gravity, . . . 250-253
manufacture of 264
'■ real tests of value, 255
'■ sugar, decoloring, 265
" •■ produced, 247
'• " refining, . ...... 265
PAGE.
Sorghum sugar, whitening, 265
" valuable varieties illustrated, . 257-263
" web-worm, 624
" when to cut, 250
Soup or stock, to clarify, 828
" should be simmered, '. 819
" vegetable . . . ' 821
Soups, S21-S24
" to color, 829
Sour pickles, '. . S46-S48
Southern farm-gate, 311
" grass-worm, 626
States, fence laws, 697-698
Sowers, broadcast, 72
Sowing and cultivating root crops, .... 174
Spanish proverb on salads, . ' 840
Spawning bed, artificial, 568
Special forms of notes . 707
•' grass and other crops, 131
Species of grass, . 15s
of American grapes, . . .... 473
" of jute, 207
of oats, 106
" of wheat, ... .... 91
Specifications, cost of model silos, .... 192
for building, . . . . 377-381
Specific gravity, how determined 991
of sorghum juice, . . . 250-253
" •' of diy wood, 991'
" " of earths, 991
" " of rock, 991
miscellaneous, . . ... 991
" '• of metals, table of .... 990
Spice cake, ... 8S0
" pudding, 873
Spiced jam, . ... 896
Spined tree-bugs, 603
Spirea (meadow sweet) , 524
Spireas ten good 524-525
Split rolls, . 861
Splitting posts, 302
Sponge cake, 878
" for bread, 855
" gingerbread, 881
Sports of childhood, 41
Spring budding 488
•■ forcing, ... 497
garden work, 501
■' work on tobacco. South, 233
Springs and drainage, . 328
" soaks and sloughs, 353
Spruce beer ...... 888
Spiu-ious coin, ... 719
Square cottage, first fioor, . . 395
■ •■ second fioor, 395
" summer-house, 406
'• cisterns, contents of 1001
" feet, and feet sq_uare, in areas, . . . 999
" measure ! ... 985
" '• surveyor's, . . . . . 9>5
comparative scale, .... 985
Squash bug, 605
Stable and caiTiage-house for farm 368
floor, . . . : 417
Stables and corn cribs, . , . ., ... 414
Stalk-borer, rice, 625
" •' preventives for 626
Standard bushel, loOO
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1053:
PAGE.
srandards of measure, 9S3
hiai-ch for lawns, etc 789
Starching and ironing, 788
Starting a dairy 287
'■ a grove, . 280
anoi-chard 281
" tlie liot-bed 497
tobacco plants, 235
State laws on fencing, 695-702
States best for tobacco, . 232
Statute defining fences, 663
Steam plowing, 60
Steamed dishes, 837
'■ pudding, , . . . . 869
Stewed tripe, 843
Stewing, 820, 826-828
Stirring and stubble plow, 66
Stock killed on railway lines, 664
" laws, 683
" " Middle States, 686-087
" New England States, . . . 683-686
^' Southern States, 687-690
" " Western States, 690-695
Stockmen and drainage, 357
Stock water from drains, .... ... 334
Stock, how to make, 828
" or soup, to clarify, 828
Stone fences, how to build, 438
'■ heavy to move, ... 437
" laid drains, .... 339
Stoves, care of ... . 783 '
Straight fence, with stakes, 301
Strap-hinged gate, . . . ' 311
Strawberry acid, 853
" jam, 896
" marmalade, 895
" short-cake, . 865
" tarts, 865
Strawberries, care of 472
Stream gate and footway, 314
Street deportment, 919
" •' special rules for 920
Strfength of horses, . . 1003
of ropes, 993
Stringing wire for fence, 305
Stripping tobacco, .... 239
Stubble plow, gang, .... 64
Study and play, . 764
" the face of bank-bills, 718
Studying taste in ornamentals, 536
Subsoil plowing, 66
Suburban cottage, 365
" ornamental cottage, 396
Successful farming, 273
Suet pudding, ■ . . 869
Sugar, beet, in United States, 247
" candy, 890
" to a quart of fruit 893
" plants, our two greatest, 247
Sugars, comparison of 248-249
" the principal 248
Sugar-cane and sugar-making, 246
'" " beetle, 625
" " cultivation of 249
Sugar-making on the farm, 264
Suggestions on letter-writing, 9o0
Sulphur and lime for insects, ....
Summary of meadow grasses, ....
581
154
Summer bathing,
" drinks, 888-
" flowering bulbs,
" house of bark,
" '■ elegant,
" " rustic, .1 4 .
" " wigwam, . .
Supply of water,
" '■ for house,
Supijer and breakfast,
" ijarties,
" room, the
Sui-veyed lands. United States, . . . . .
Sward plowing,
Swedish clover,
Sweeping, and care of brooms, . . . . .
" carpets,
Sweet apple pudding,
" green pickles, i
" pickles, 850-
potato root-borer and remedy, . , . .
Sweet potatoes, field cultivation of . . . .
" " garden cultivation of . . .
" planting the sets, . . .
" " soils,
" " starting the plants, . . . .
" " to keep dui'ing winter, . . .
Swimming birds, . . . •
Swindling by solicitors,
" through notes-, etc
Syringa (Philadelphus) ,
Syrup of lemons,
Syrups, 897-
AGE._
763
-889
514
406
407
406
405
374
732;
912
912
924
673
65
162
792
736.
871
851
■851
645
244
245.
244-
244
244
245
654
703.
703,
522
899
■898.
Table decorations, 746-
" etiquette, 747
'■■ service, . . . 751
usages at . 908
Table of absorbing poAver of soils, .... 86
" absorption of oxygen by soil, . . 86.
" cloth measure, 983
'• colors, 758
" comparative values of sorghum, . . 256.
" corn product 9Q.
" cost of corn crop, . 118
cotton crop by States, 196
" crops, 19(i
" crushing force of metals, .... 993
" distance, . ... . . . 983
dry measure, 983, 986.
" earth's area and population, . . 1019
equivalents for cooking, . . . 883
export of food crops, 105
foods, 765
" foreign exchange . . 9911
germinating depths for wheat, . . 95
" grass seed, pounds per bushel, seeds
per ounce, depth for germination, 152
" grasses for special soils, 152
" " Wobvu-n experiments, . 156-157
" improvement in seed wheat, ... 98.
" " wheat ears, ... 98
" plowing, acres, ........ 1004
" price per pound, . . . . 1015
" proportionate doses, . .... 775
" relative corn crop 91
" rending force, wood, 992
•' rye, seed, harvest, soils, etc., . . . 102,
1054
THE HOME AND FARM MANUAL.
PAGE.
Table of seeding, harvest, etc., of wheat, . . 95
soils, seeding, etc., of barley, . . .103
" specific gravities 990
" time of boiling fruit, 893
" " digestion, 766
" United States money, 989
** unusual weights, 982
" valuable western grasses, . . . .144
" wages and salaries 1019
'• water discharged from tile, .... 349
'• wet land plants, 358
" weight of soils, 85
" weights, 982
" wine measure, 983, 987
Tachina fly, 649, 650
Taking up public lauds 669-673
Tamarinds, 970
Tapioca, varieties and use, 964
Tarts and tart crusts, 865
Taste in building, 370
" in ladies' dress, 757
" in pictures, etc., 730
Taylor cake, 880
Tea " 880
" how to keep, 886
'• how to make, 886
" roses, . 515
" where growing wild, 966
" where indigenous, '. . 966
Tea-making of vaiious peoples, 886
Teams, three-horse, 278
Temperature of geraiination, 997
" of soils, 995
" required by plants, . . 996
Tenant's certificate of lease, 294
" agreement, 713
" notice of quitting, 713
Ten ideals in agriculture, 83
Tepid baths, fresh and salt water, . . . . 763
Terminal budding, 488
Terminology of the vine . . 476
Terraces, 539
Test for copper in water, 777
" for iron in water, .... .... 777
" lor impurities in water, 777
'• of fertility, practical, 77
'" the soil, • .... 291
Testing pork, 809-810
" soils, 277
" the value of species, ; 135
Tests for finishing sugar, 268
" of value in working sorghum, ... . . 255
Textile crops and fibers, 194
Theatricals, private, 925
Thermometers compared, 998
" relations between, 997
Things to avoid in society 914
Thorn (Cratcegus), 529
Three horses abreast, driving, 278
" '■ '• hitching 278
Threshing, ancient 55
■' barley, 103
flax, 204
rice, 129
Thrift vs. unthrift, 275
" Thy free, fair homes," 33
Tiger beetles, 648
Tile, connections, sniall with large, .... 349
PAGE.
Tile, difeerent kinds of 341
" drainage, practical men on 329
" drains, velocity of water in ... . 1003
" origin of 329
" water carried by 347
'■ " discharged from 349
" velocity of water in 349
Timbale of potatoes, 844
Timber culture act, 671
" climatic effects of , 571
'• deadening, . 285
'■ valuable, how saved 282
•' fuel from 572
" growth of 571
" planting 570-576
" plantations, 280
protection and fuel, 572
" to plaut, 571
various uses of 572
when a nuisance 573
Timbered farm, to clear, 282
Time for meals, 913
" required to cook vegetables, 766
" " to roast or boil, 767
Tin covers, to clean, 784
Tobacco, belt of 231
" bulking, 239
" cultivation of, South, .... 232-234
" cutting, 238
" growers, twelve rules for . . . 240
" growing. South, 232
" house 239
" magnitude of the crop, 231
" situations for 231
" South, manuring, 232
" " seed-bed, 235
" States, 232
" spring cultivation. South, .... 233
stripping, 239
transplanting, North 236-237
" transplanting. South, 233
proper way to transplant, .... 237
" ventilation in drying, ... . . 239
" worming, 234
" raising the plants, 235
Tomato beer, ^9
" catsup , 851
" chow-cho\\-, 849
" figs, 899
" or cotton worm, 628
sauce 852
Toilet recipes, 797
Toilet-room and bath, 758
" for guests, 924
" for farm-hands, 758
Tool-house, . . • 427^31
Tools, how to use, ........ 4;i2-433
" ready for service, 273
Trade for cash . 704
Trailing and climbing shrubs, .... 525-527
Training grapevines, 475-476
'• the vine to stakes, 475
Transplanting flowers, 509
" orchard trees, 281
Transporting fish, mles for . . 562
Trash, cleaning from plows, 63
Traveling etiquette 934
Treatment of children, 954
ALPHABETICAL AND ANALYTICAL INDEX.
1055
PAGE.
Tree planting, .... . . .... 573
" producing tamarinds . . . 970
'■ i)rotectors, . . 539
Trees about homestead, . 576
" liowering 528
" for barriers, 322-323
" for village grounds, 537
" for protection, 322-323
•' for shade, 282
" heeling in 451
" of California, 576
" shrubs, etc., distances apart for 1009-1010
" varieties to plant, 453
" when to buy, 451
" when to plant, 452
Trellises, ornamental, 534
Trellising the vine, 476
Trench plowing, .67
Trenching deep impractical)le, ' 67
• ' the soil for hops, 225
Trespass from highway to fields, 663
" upon propei'ty, . . ■ 662
Trimming the hedge, • . . 318
Troughs for forcing plants, ....... 494
Troy weight, comparison 988
" table of 988
True and spurious capers, 970
" taste in dre.ss, 754
Turning flat furrows, . • 279
Turkey and fowl, to roast, 830-831
" boiled, 825
•' steamed, . 825
Turning first furrows, 64
Uuburned brick, to make 376
Underdraining, 326
" twelve propositions, .... 357
Underdrain, section of 338
Underdrains, formation of 337
Unfermented wine, 798
Unimproved land, United States, .... 1011
United States and Great Britain, crop compar-
ison , 1010
Unsurveyed area. United States, .... 672
Upland cotton, 195
" rice, .123
" " cultivation, . , 125
Upper floor, farm cottage, 367
Vagabond crambus, 623
" •' remedies for 623
Varro's agricultural wi-itings, 49
Veal, boiled, 826
" to cut up, 813
" to carve, 748
Vegetable and animal life, contrasts of . . . 997
" garden, economy of . . . 494
" " width of rows, . . . 491
" gardening, . . 42
•' salad, French, . 841
" soup, 821
Vegetables, ancient, 753
" and fruits, necessity of . . . . 44o
" and human names, . . .... 752
" for market, 501
illustrated, 496-506
" preparing for market. . . . 503
that will .sell 502
PAGE.
Vegetables, winter forcing of 499
" time required to cook, .... 766
" with meat, 818
Vegetation an index to soil, . . ... 276
Velocity and effect of wind, . . . . 1003
" of water in tiles, . .... 349
" " in tile drains, . . 1003
Venison, roast saddle of . . . . . 830
Ventilation in drying tobacco, 239
" of houses, ... . . . 374
Verminous insects, .... . . . 784
" animals and insects, 579
Vermont game laws, 675
Versailles experiments on drainage, .... 358
Vicious animals must be restrained, .... 661
Village lot, design for 537
'■ lots, planting, . 538
" home, 34
Vinegar, flavored, . 852
Vine, alternate system, . 475
" and plants, flowering, 514
" cultivation of 47 1^75
" names of jjarts of 476
" covering in winter, 475
" layering, 490
" pinching and pruning, 475
" tr.aining to stakes, 475
Vineyard, the 473-476
Virgil on agriculture, 49
Virginia fence, 299-300
Visiting cards, stvles for .... . . 951
" " titles, etc., 917
etiquette, rules for . 928
" Introductions at . . 916
Visitors, entertainment of . . .... 738
Vitality of seeds, 1009
Wagon jacks, 419
Wages, to calculate, 1018
Wallows and sinks, 352
Walls, how to paper, . . 792
Wall, to build, 377
Wardian case,^. . . 74b
Warranty deed, agreement for 977
■' " form of 977
" deeds, ... ....... 715
Wash for face, .... 797
Washing dishes, .... 781
" fluid, 788
" fine fabrics, 787
" rice before boiling, 826
" summer suits, 787
" windows ... 794
Washington's one hundred rules; . 941
Waste paper, uses of 783
Water and drainage rights, 667
' " birds, . • 654
" bugs, 614-615
" closets, . . 411
" gates, . . . 314
" ice, 890
" lilies, ... . . . • . 534
" meadows, ancient, 52
" plants, . ■ 533-534
'• rice, 124
" supply, ' .... 373
" " for house, 732
Water-proof glue, 799
i05i;
THE HOME AXD FAKJI ilA^TUAL.
Wax for grafting, to make, . . .
AVaxing grafts,
Weather, foretelling the ....
"Wedding engagements, etiqaette of
in\itations, . . .
•' when celebrated. . . .
Weigelia (dierrtlla)
Weight of various substances, cubic f'
per bushel, of products.
Weights used for special purposes.
Well-water, importance of pine,
impuritie- in
Western corn bread,
crib, . .
• ' Indigenous aru s =+•
'- States, fence lav ;
stock laws.
Wet weather plants.
Wheat and com belts. . .
'■ best soil
bushels of seed per acre
conclusion on improvement,
di-iUing. advantage of .
depth of covering. . .
favorite varieties,
hanest time.
illustration; of
" isosoma. . . . .
reputable old varieties,
" soUs. best, West.
soils, preparation of
time ijf so^Tng. . .
'• varieties of. ancient, .
with and without fertilizer.
Whipped cream, .
White clover. .
dent com . . .
gi-ub or May beetie
pepper.
■' saurt-. . .
sugar candy, . .
'• spruce. .
thom heJse. . .
Whiteninff sorghum -ugar,
Whitewashed walls, to paper
Whitewashing. . . .
White-wine whev. . .
" PAGE.
. 4«3
1010
. 932
ft32
932
519
1005
9S2
. 733
sS4
. . S59
. 42.5
. . 144
699-702
69C-695
. . 356
. . 90
. . 95
95
93.
94
94
91
95
100
623-624
. . 99
. . 92
92
. . 95
. . .53
>74
. . 1'52
120
. 1)47
9iJS
>90
. .>47
320
. . 265
. 703
734
. . 770
Wicket coop,
■■ Widow's cake,'"
Wigwam smiimer-hou-e. . .
Wild potato of Xew Mexico.
'• rice,
WiU, codicil to . .
■■ how to draw . .
Wind-breaks and groves, .
Window cuitains. . .
sashes, to fasten.
'• gardening
Wind, velocity and effect of . .
Winding frames for silk-worms.
Wine measm-e. comparative scale.
" or liqnid measure, .
saui.-e. ....
'• for roast game, . .
Wines at official dinners, . . .
■' home-made. .
Winnowing grain, ancient, . .
Winter bathing.
forcing of veg-^tatrie-.
Wire fence, bracing.
-' stringing the wire,
Wisconsin game laws. . . .
AToburn exi^eriments ■ m grasse;.
•' tables of gras-es. . .
Wofid. cement f'jr
WooUey, S. J., on draining, . .
PAGE.
. 408
. SSO
. 405
. 964
. 123
. m
. 713
2^0
72^
79'.
. 40
1003
. 21-
. 9S.7
. ^O-j
. S39
. 910
79"^
. 55
7153
305
67S
. . 1.51
156-157
. 799
330
Woolly apple-tree blight, 597
Worcestershire sauce, ... . . . . S51
Working cattle. . ... . . . 49
Worm or Virginia fence 299
Worming tobacco. ... . 234, 23S
Workshop on the farm, 426
Yea-t and yeii-t-making, 855
Yeast cakes, 855
•' of hops *55
Yellow and blue color for carpet tags, . . . h'M
color for conon SOI
dent com, . . 120
Yellowwood (virffilia). .... 5-54
Yorkshire pudding. . . . .... 869
Youth, the precocious, 39
Youthful activity-. . ' 39
sports 41