1553 ANNEX LIBRARY CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Cornell University Library SK 236.K2W25 1883 The sportsman's guide to Kashmir & Ladak 3 1924 016 411 872 The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924016411872 THE SPORTSMAN'S GUIDE KASHMIE & LADAK, &c., A. E. WARD, BENGAL STAFF CORPS. KEPKODUCEDWITH ADDITIONS FEOM LETTERS WHICH APPEARED IN THE "ASIAN." SECOND AND REVISED EDITION. (falptla: PUBLISHED BY THE CALCUTTA CENTRAL PRESS CO., LD., 5, COUNCIL HOUSE STBEET. 1883. Missing Page PREFACE. These lines are written in the hope that, after tlieir perusal, the visitor to " The Vale," or to other parts of the Himalayas, may not feel himself so entirely at the mercy of his shikari, who too often consults his own comfort, and visits spots where he and the villagers can play into one another's hands, and neglects localities where the best bags are to be obtained. The object, therefore, is not to write a book of adventures, but to give accurate measurements, the names of the best shooting grounds, and such hints as are likely to prove useful to the inexperienced traveller in the hills and ravines of the Himalayas, and amongst the sterile mountains and plains of Ladak and Middle Thibet. No attempt has beeu made to compile a scientific treatise. A book of this description would only bore the general reader, and a work now io the Press, by Mr. Sterndale, gives much information to the naturalist. A guide to the various shooting grounds does not exist, and the want of it is often keenly felt. It is quite impossible for one traveller to have an intimate knowledge of the vast field for shooting which is included in the mountains of Hindustan and Thibet. The author acknowledges with gratitude the assistance given to him by several friends ; and more especially to a gentleman who has resided in Kashmir for the last fifteen years, his sincere thanks are due. At times the reader will find it difficult to trace the various localities on the maps. In order to lessen this evil VI PREFACE. the autliov has doue liis best to refer to some fairly well- known village or river, in the vicinity of the ground he may be describing, and has added in the new Edition a few maps. It is hoped that the object of the skeleton maps, now added, may not be misunderstood. They are little more than clues to the localities mentioned in the book, and will, it is hoiked, serve to render the description of the various routes plainer. They are added at the request of several friends who have coraphiined of the difficulty they have experienced in trac- ing out the shooting grounds referred to in these pages. The only maps which are of any real use are those on the scale of one inch to four miles. They are to be obtained from Messrs. Tliacker, Spink & Co., of Calcutta. In England almost any description of bound map can be purchased at 457, Strand, but it is far preferable to buy the ordinary quarter sheets, for a big map is difficult to manipulate, and in a high wind, and on a small camp table, it is sufficiently aggravating to try the temper of the most amiable of mankind. All the measurements given have been made by the author, unless it is particularly noted to the contrary. By far the greater number of places have been visited by him, and it is believed that all information so kindly afforded to him is the result of recent experiences, It will, therefore, be understood that this is a sportsman's and not a naturalist's book, and what success may have attended the author in his various wanderings can be con- fidently expected by any one possessing the love of sport, and that most valuable of gifts — a good constitution. At one time it was intended to have added a list of the largest nieasurenients of horns on record, but this idea has been abandoned ; for it appears that a gentleman of great e.^perience is devoting himself to this undertaking. CHAPTER I. The Shiharis of Kashmir and of LadaJc — The cost of a slwot'mg excursion— The decrease of game — Seasons for shooting. In Kashmir there exist two or three hundred men who call themselves shikaris, but there are not two dozen who are worthy of the name. In no otlier part of India have I come iicross such an arrant collection of impostors. I quote from a -letter of mine which the Editor of the Asian was kind enough to comment upon in one of his leading articles. " As a rule the Kashmiri is a good walker and is keen sight- ed ; but only the very best of the fraternity are of any use after Ibex and Markhor. I would certainly not advise any one to go after Ibex or Markhor without the aid of the natives of the country ; but I do deprecate the employment of the host of followers it is the custom to entertain. Most people, when they arrive in Kashmir, engage a shikari ; if possible they employ a 'man who has been recommended to them, but failing this, they have to fall back on any one who has a parcel of recommendations. Well and good, this is to a great extent unavoidable ; but what follows? " The shikari must, he says, have an assistant shikari ; then there must be a man to carry luncheon, and a certain staff of coolies. One and all of this gathering do their best not to do any work. They are hangers-on of that grand gentleman, the Kashmiri shikari, and in return for employment found, they work for him in his village during the winter months. This is not all. In addition to wages ; rice, dal, and salt have to be supplied, and not unfrequently ghee, sheep and even tobacco or snuff" are demanded. Custom has decreed that twenty rupees and food are the head shikari's wages, and now it is too late to alter it ; but why engage an assistant on twelve, and a luncheon coolie on seven? " Insist on the shikari carrying a rifle, and doing his own scouting ; give him, when necessary, the aid of a local man who can carry the luncheon-basket and a spare gun ; keep up a staff of coolies to carry baggage and to collect wood, but give them to understand that you are their master, and that the shikari is your servant, and the result will be that, after a little trouble at first, you will have a much more enjoyable trip, aud, in all probability, will return with a better bag of game." Amongst a Inrge gang of followers you are certain to be kept in the dark as to all movements, aud you will be led about here aud there, scarcely knowing where you are bound for. i THE SPORTSMAN S GUIDE TO The better class of sliikaris can and will work in tlie liope of getting a reward or ii recommendatioa to some friend of the sportauKui who may take him iuto service during the coming season. When a sportsman has had some experience in Kashmir, and become conversant with the ways of the country, he may well dispense with the " professional," and fall back on the local talent of each ravine he visits. He will then only require the services of two good coolies, instead of shikaris and their followers. They will bring wood for the campfire, water to the cook-house, and carry the rifles on the march. Any one who shoots for the pleasure of the thing will value a pair of horns, which he has obtained without aid, far more than another head, towards getting which he has done nothing more than pull the trigger. The meu who in Ladak follow the trade of " professional shikari" are few and far between. They are not at all keen on taking service, and are much more likely to deny the existence of game than to invent stories which may lead the visitor to give them employment. They are naturally lazy, obstructive, and obstinate, but some are exceptions to the rule, and make good serv.ants. In Lahoul and Spiti the shikaris are generally honest, moderate in their demands, and fairly anxious to please, but are greatly wanting in enterprise. In Ghurwal, Bussahir and in the estates of the various petty rajas in the neighbour- hood of our north-west sanitaria, they are very different to the Kashmir impostors, and, as a rule, are reliable and hard- working. Very few of the Himalayan sbikaris are good trackers, and none can be compared with the men of the wild tribes of the Central Provinces. Since the habit of employing so many retainers has come into vogue, the cost of shooting in Kashmir has been greatly increased. Still it is the country for meu who cannot aflFord to expend large sums on sport. For outfit it is impossible to fix any figure, but I should strongly recommend a few things to be selected. Provide your tent with net-work pockets, and have an outer fly covered with khaki drill, for a white tent in a Thibetan nullah can be seen for miles by the game. The servants' tents are best made of brown blankets thrown over a male bamboo ridge pole ; the ridge to be supported on a couple of forked sticks which cau be used as walking sticks by the coolies. . Clothing. — Puttoo suits made in Srinaggar, fur-lined gloves, flannel shirts, a Cardigan jacket with sleeves, broad-soled boots. Cooking Utensils.— 'Q\Q(i'k tin cooking pots. KASHMIR AND LADAK, ETC. 3 Etceteras. — Butcher's shinning knives, shoemaker's sewing implements, packing needles, housewife and worsted for darning socks, a telescope, binoculars, flint and steel. For a hattery. — I can only say what I myself prefer in the hills, and that is D. B. C. F, '500 bore Express by Henry, charge 5f drachms, and a l2-bore gun. For Stores. — Cocoa, tea, oatmeal, jams. For Thibet add Normandy butter, Swiss milk, and corned beef, dried fruits and vegetables. The annexed table of expenses should be sufficient for any one who cares to go to the more remote ravines, and thus give himself the best chance of getting good trophies : — Carriage of one small tent and personal baggage 4 men at Es. 6 = Es. 24 „ „ cook house tent, utensils, &o. ...2 „ „ „ = „ 12 „ „ stores ... ... ... 2 , = „ 12 Gun C(Me« and ammunition ... ...1 „ „ „ = „ 6 Servants' baggage ... ... ...1 „ „ „= „ 6 Cook's pay, Ks. 10 ; Shikari, Es. 20 ; Two coolies, Es. 10 = „ 40 Food for self, Es. 20 ; for 4 servants, Es. 15 ... = „ 35 Eunners to Srinaggar and payment of local shikaris, &c. = „ 30 Total Es. ... 165 To this must be added, in many cases, the carriage of food for the servants. The cost of this depends on the distance from the nearest depot for supplies ; but it should not swell the total iseyond Es. 200. Wines and stores can be made to amount to any sum, and if much is required, the item " carriage" will be materially increased. It may be objected that I have supposed the traveller to move his camp daily; but, although h^ will probably halt at least half his time, it will be found necessary to engage the men permanently as he will be past the line of villages. A list of the authorized rates is appended : — Coolie by the day halting „ per march Dandy bearer Baggage pony per march Eiding „ „ „ Custom has settled : — Head shikari ... Assistant „ ... ... about Tiffin coolie ... ... „ ge „ ... ... „ Es. As. P. ... 2 ... 4 ... 6 ... 8 ... 1 Es. 20 and food per mensem. » 5 „ ,, A coolie employed in the vicinity of his own village gets Es. 6 per mensem and no food. Thus, when the sportsman goes up the Krishnye, the coolies are hired at the warm springs, and get this rate of pay. 4 THE sportsman's GUIDE TO In Thibet, Tak hire is cheap ; the drivers bring their own food and provide carriage for it. Tlie ordinary charge per Tak is lie. 8 to Us. 12 a month. In other portions of the Himalayas rates vary bo much that no exact figures can be given, but of one thing I feel certain, that, omitting the cost of wines or spirits, any one should be able to march from end to end of the Himalayas for Es. 300 per mensem, and should be able to wander all over Kashmir for a much lower sum. I have no belief in being stingy, and in making oneself un- necessarily uncomfortable ; but it is often more trouble to take luxuries than to do without them. The decrease of game is chiefly due to shooting out of season, to the use of nets and nooses, and other unfair means for killing game. Fair shooting does not do much harm ; and, if the sportsman also fires at all vermin he sees, the chances are that in the long run he does more good than harm. Every leopard, wolf, or wild dog met with is as a rule fired at ; but foxes, pine martens, weasels, and birds of prey are seldom interfered with. The purchasers of game are much more to be blamed than the native who traps it during the breeding season. The question is so often asked : " Wiien shall I take leave so as to ensure getting sport ?" This table of seasons may aid to- wards a reply : — Himalayas within the action of the monsoon. March, April, and May, and half of June are the best months for large game. Half June, July, and August are generally so rainy that no sport is to be got. In September, October and November the weather is, as a rule, perfect, but the vegetation is rank. These are the months for pheasant-shooting. December, January, and February are cold ; and at any eleva- tion over 7,000 feet there is too much snow. The Himalayas beyond the action of the monsoon, in which parts of Kashmir may be included, can be visited comfortably during the whole year unless the snow bars the way. Por Kashmir and Ladak. January and February, if the snow is deep, are good for stag- shooting. March is a sure time to get the stags, for they are low down grazing on the green grass. * The latter half of April, the whole of May, and part of June is the time for Ibex and Markhor. From June 15th to September 15th very little can be done in Kashmir ; the game can wander over all the mountain tops KASHMIR AND LADAK, ETC. 5 wliich are then free from snow. The bears are out of fur, and their coats valueless. These are the months for Thibet. September 15th to November 1st the barasingh are calling and are returning from their summer retreats. Tiie bears are getting worth shooting, and the chikore are to be found in the lovver hills. November and December. There is one great drawback to shooting during these two months ; the grass is dry, noisy, and slippery, but November can advantageously be spent after red bears or after the Kashmir Marklior. In December tlie grass is dangerously slippery, and the bears are hibernating. An early snowfall will however cure the i5rst evil, and will also cause the stags to descend. The wild fowl are numerous, but are difficult to approach ; they are continually harassed by the boatmen, and will not allow a boat to get near them. THE SPOUTSMAN's GUIDE TO CHAPTER II. Routes to Leh, &c. — A feui shooting routes. In Dr. Ince's Handbook of Kashmir will be found details of the authorized routes into the valley. They are : — 1. Via Goojerat and the Pir Panjal. 2. „ Eawal Pindi and Murree. 3. „ Peshawur and Hazara, 4. „ Goojerat and Poonch. Trom Srinaggar to Leh the route is slightly altered. No. Stage. Miles. Supplies. Eemaeks. 1. Gunderbal 14 Good By boat or by road. 2. Kangaum 11 jj 3. Goond 14 Doubtful... House. 4. Gugangair 10 None. 5. Soonamurg 9 Only milk.- 6. Baltal 10 None Huts. 7. Mataiyau 15 » Cross Zogila. Matahoy is half way. Huts, but very dirty. 8. Dras 15 Good Large house, 9. Tashgaum 16 Fair Serai. 10. Kargil 23 Good House. Pass Changaiun at 16 miles. Supplies only obtainable by previous notice. Pay for 1| stages. 11. Shergol 20 Fair . Serai. 12. Kvirbo 19 !» ... „ Pass Moolbekh. 13. Lama Turu 16 Good „ Lay in supplies if going by Wanla. 14. Snurla 20 Fair. 15. Saspnl 20 )» . Serai. 16. Snemo 15 » »j 17. Leh 18 Good . Bungalow. Leli to Clumgclienmo. 1. Eunbeer Bagh. Tikzay 10 Fair. 2. Chimray 15 Good , Last place where wheat flour is got. 3. Zingral 8 None , Serai under the pass. No fuel. Camp about 16,000. 4. Durgu 17 )» •• . Cross Changla, start early. 5. Tankse 5 Fair , House and Garden. Last chance of supplies. 6. Muglib 9 None. 7. Tsearh Tso 5 » Bhurrel to right and left. 8. Phobrang or Chuggra. 12 to H Pass Lukung, KASHMIR AND LADAK, ETC. Ko Stage. Miles. Supplies. Kemaeks. 9. Foot of Marsemik 6 to 8 None .. Cross Pass. 10. Panglung or 8 to 10 Kimdi Guinlay, » )) 11. Pamzal ... 8 )! •• Changchenmo valley, fuel. 12. Kyam ... 8 )> Fuel. There is an alternative route from Zingral over Kiiyla. Halt at Kaj Tso after crossing the Pass ; next day go to Taukse. Erom Tankse there is, a route to Mirpa Tso and the Thatoola ; instead of going to Muglib cross the river, and go up the back of the ranges which bound the Pangong to the south, and then to get to changchenmo come round the ranges, and march along the borders of the lake by man to Lukung. [See map of ChaDgcheuino.] No. 1. 2. Stage. Kanbal Changus Route from Srinaggar to Wardman. Miles. Supplies. Good 3. Nowboog Foot of Murgan Over Pass G weeny e 7. Maru 12 7 18 10 14 Only milk and fowls. None. Fowls and milk None Fowls sheep. and Eemaeks. By boat. Early in the year ask at Kanbal if store is open. Lay in rice and salt for the whole trip. Cross Murgan. Camp at entrance of nullah. Capital of Wardwan, No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Stage. "Warm Springs Furriabad From Maru to Krislmye. Miles. Supplies. ... 10 Fowls and sheep None Opposite Dichnye Tekh Murg Mundik Sir Keyl Gye Ladhi Hoie Turring Hoie Eemaeks. Engage coolies by month. Pass Metwan, the east village. These are all shooting marches. There is a > cave at Tekh Murg and stones for shelter in all, but Mundik Sir. Distances, 2 to 5 miles. Springs The Zaisnye branches oif at Furriabad. The Birbulnye joins the main nullah between the " Warm and Furriabad. From Srinaggar there are alternative routes to Astor and Boouji. These places can be reached by the direct road or by going over the Zogila, and tiien iilong the Leli road ; and from Chaugaura by working across to Iskardo, lloudu, &c. THE sportsman's GUIDE TO Direct Monies — Srlnaggar to Astor. No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. Stage. Bandipoor Kralpoora Tragbal Zudkoosoo Kanzelwan Goorais Bangla Mapunun Minimurg Boozil Sirdar-ki Koti Dars Godhai Margam Astor Duskin Dognee Eamghat Boonji Miles. . .. .5 .. 6 .. 9 7 ,. 8 ,. 10 .. 6 .. 4 .. 5 .. 9 .. 8 .. 10 .. 8 .. 12 .. 14 .. 12 .. 10 .. 13 Supplies. Good ... Doubtful. None, jj ••• Milk"&c. ... None. Remarks. By boat over the Woolar; take coolies to Gurais. Cross Eajdiangan Pass. Take on coolies to Dars and all supplies. Take on coolies to Astor. Fair. None. Doubtful. or at march 7 go to (1), Lish.nt, 7 miles; (2), Loyen Harda, 10 miles ; (3), Marmeri, &c. See next route. Or from — No. 5. Staoe. Kanzelwan to Tharbut Gugai Pass Loyen Harda Marmeri Chongam Goorekeet Astor Miles. Supplies. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. Tiie first of these Boozil, is the easiest. 9 10 12 12 14 12 7 None. Fair. Remarks. tip Chota Gugai. Cross Pass. routes, over the Darikom pass, and via It is open in April. The second is difficult, and is open in May. This route is by Lishat and the Kamri Pass. The third is by Gagai and the Gagai pass, and is the most difiBcult of the three. I am informed that there is a route from Foolmai going to the Rattu plain via Mir MuUick. The generality of visitors arrive in Kashmir, about 25th April, but some sportsmen, who couie from England, often have a large amount of spare time on their hands, and have not to be back by any fixed date. To them I would recommend the following routes: — Secure as soon as possible one of the Soroo "Ibex Nullahs ;" endeavour tp be on the ground by the first week in April. Soroo can be reached from Srinaggar either by crossing the Zogila Pass, and then turning off to the right from Dras, or by the Wardwan route. The length of time taken on the road depends on a man's walking powers. Early iu the season KASHMIU AND LADAK, ETC. 9 tliere will be no occasion to liupry, so I will suppose he marclies leisurely. By boat be will reacb Kanbal bridge in two days, and can then walic on seven miles to Changus villiige. Here lie will get supplies of rice and salt which must suffice to carry him on to Soroo. From Cliangus it is an easy marcli to Nowboog ; the third march is to any spot under the Murgan Pass ; the fourth is over the pass. Then it is a long march to Sooknis ; and from there he will require three to fiv« days, accord- ing to what nullah be selects. At Soroo flour is easily obtained, and is the depot from which be will draw future supplies (Map of Liddar Valley, &c. Chap. XII). After having secured some Ibex heads, cross the glaciers, and bit oflF the Ladak road near Lama-Turu Then marcii down to Leh ; from there visit the Changchenmo, and utilize tlie months of July and August in the pursuit of Ovis Ammon, Burhel and Antelope. On the way back have a look at some of the haunts of the Sharpoo, and get into Easlimir in time for the stag-shooting. After the stags have ceased calling, it is a good plan to visit the grazing grounds where the sheep have been folded during the summer, and pick up one or two red bears. "When leavir.g the valley, go out either by the Foonch route, taking the Sallar '■ Markhor ground" on the way, or else stay a few days in the Kaj-nag hills, and leave by Murree. (Map of K.ijnag, Chapter IV). Or, if of a more adventurous turn, the following programme might be suitable : — Cross the Zogila Pass before the heavy snow sets in. This generally can be done as late as December 1st; then marcli steadily along the Ladak road to Lama-Turu. When there, shoot Sharpoo, for these animals come down close to the village during the winter months, Work the whole of the ground between Lama-Yuru and the Hinjo Pass. The road to Hiiijo lies through Waula ; the distance is about 20 miles to the foot of the pass. Do not cross this pass, for there might be difficulty in getting on, or back again ! Pay particular attention to the heights above Wanla for Ibex, and to the country south of the Wanla gorge for Burhel. By January 20th, the traveller can return to Lama-Turu, and then visit the Ibex nullahs of Kulsi and Basgo, and the plains that are frequented by Sharpoo. Leh will be the next place to visit; and to refit will probably take a few days. Leaving Leh in March, work up the Indus to Hanle, taking the Ovis Ammon ground near Q-ya and Tiri en route; in June, after shooting the Thibet ravine deer near the Tso-Morari lake, turn up northwards and march along the Pangong lake to Changchenmo. Give a few days to the Antelope; return by Tankse to Leh; then work along the Kashmir road to Changaum (see route to Leh), and from there take the rgad to Iskardo, and visit the Maikhor ground ; then 2 10 THE SFORTSMAI^'S GUIDE TO rpt\irn to tlie vallpy for stnora, niid go out by tlie Murree or Poonch routes, and tlie liabitat of all the diflerent kinds of Kashmir, Ladak or Thibetan game will have been visited. If it is found that the Zogila Pass is likely to remain open later than December 1st, it would be better to delay, as the time spent between Lama-Turu and Leh might hang heavily on hand. Most men have only six months at their disposal ; out of this time one month is necessarily lost in travelling to and from the valley of Kashmir. During one expedition of this duration, it is hopeless to expect to obtain shots at every kind of hill game, and by attempting too much, it not unfrequently happens that the sportsman ruins his chances of doing well lifter any one of the various animals. If a man reachea Kashmir in April, my advice to him would be, leave Sriuaggar as quickly as can be arranged, make up his mind what specimens he wishes to secure, and remember that it is almost impossible to make sure of more thau three or four Tarietiea. If the selection is Ibex, Astor, Markhor, and Oorin (Sharpoo), his route is evidently fixed ; he must go to tiie Aster side (Map, Chap. IV). On his way back he may pick up a stag or two on the high ground above Bandipoora, say, in Gugai. He will in all probability have secured a few Bears and Musk Deer; but his mind should be set on Ibex and Markhor. If, on the other hand, he wishes to get Ibex and the game of Thibet, he must follow one of the routes already described. The chances of getting red Bears are small, for time will not allow of his remaining to try after either the Bears or Kashmir Markhor. In fact, it is possible that he might prefer to returu from Hanle by the Simla route. If a combination of shooting and society is wished for, what i.>i pleasanter than to follow the Ibex until June, then to visit Gulmurg, and after the season is over try for the Barasingh. It hink Soonamurgjthe second hill station of Kashmir,i3 a much prettier place than Gulmurg, but it is further from Srinaggar, and seems of late years to have been deserted, chiefly, I fancy, owing to the want of supplies. Gulmurg is only two marches from the capital, whereas Soonamurg is five. To employ six months' leave if Astor or Ladak are visited is very simple, but the difficulty of settling where to go for three months is great, for most of the ground near the valley is greatly shot over. Three months leave means but two months after game ; and I would not advise any one to spend their hard-earned privi- lege leave in Kashmir unless they can so time it as to arrive in Brinaggar by April 1st or else by September 1st. In the first case, the arriver on April 1st will, in all likeli- hood, have his choice of the Wardwau acd Soroo Ibex uullnhs. KASHMIR AND LADAK, ETC. 11 and by turning his attention to only Ibex and red Bears ha should do well. On September 1st there will be time to secure a good locality for stags, and before leaving, for getting a few Bears, or possibly a Markhor. If fate decreed that leave could not be obtained so as to arrive before May Ist, I should strongly recommend the Pir Panjal, for all the good ground iu the Wardwan and elsewhere would be occupied. Shorter leave than three months would point to the Pir, or to the Kaj-nag only, and would, in all probability, result in a complete failure. There are many spots near our hill sanataria that could be visited on sixty days' leave, but I do not propose to touch on them here. Later on, when pointing out the favorite resorts of some varieties of game, I will mention a few places which may prove attractive to those sportsmen who have but a short spell of liberty on hand. The routes I have given naturally admit of great variation. Leh can be reached by following the Zaskar river to its junction with the Indus. There is also a route from the Krishnye which leads into Ladak. There is a road to Sooknia from the Liddar valley ; and many other bye-paths are open. (Map, Chapter XII). In the preceding directions I have supposed Srinaggar to be the base of operations, but it is by no means neces- sary that this should be adhered to. A start can be made from any of the North-West or Punjab Hill Stations, and by working through the Ibex ground iu Spiti ; through the vicinity of the Tso-Morari lake and Hanle in pursuit of Ovis Ammon, Burhel and Goa a good bag might be made. If pre- ferred, instead of going from Hanle northwards to the Indus, there is nothing to prevent the traveller from passing through the Eukshu country over the Tag^alang pass, and so on to Lf h via Gya and Miru. The middle of May would be early enough to start on this trip. 12 THE BPOUTSMAN's GUIDE TO CHAPTER III. Himalayan game — Fur producers — Pheasants, dtc. In tlie dominions of the Maharaja of Kashmir a great variety of game is to be found — iu fact specimens of almost every kind of Himalayan trophies can be obtained. The goata are represented by two varieties of Markhor — the Ibex and the Ther. The capricorns or antelope goats include the Serow and the Goral. The sheep are three in number— tlie Ovia Ammon, Ovis Vignei, with one or two closely allied varieties, and the Burhel. The Deer family have the Kashmir Stag, the Musk Deer, and the Barking Deer. Then follow the Antelope and Ravine Deer of Thibet. The Tak representing the cattle. The Kyang or Wild Ass of Thibet. Tlie red and black Bears in Kashmir and parts of Ladak. The cat tribe consists of the Leopard, the Ounce, the Tbibet Lynx, and one or two unimportant Jungle Cats. The dogs include two or more species of wolves, and the wild dog. Pigs are fi)und in some parts, and at one time were common in the Liddar, Sindh, &c. The gigantic Ovis polii and 0. Tcarelini, the Central Asian antelope Gutturosa, are not met with on ground that can, under ordinary circumstances, be visited by the English sportsman ; but the horns can sometimes be purchased from traders. The Maral or Maralbashi stag is another trophy which must he bought. The horns are sold in the Yarkand bazar. The Sambhur takes the place of the Barasingh or Kashmir Stag in our British possessions. The Oorial or Houriar of the Salt Eange must be mentioned, for although it is not found in the countries in which we are now chiefly concerned, it often forms an item iu the game list of the visitor to the valley, who has the time and inclina- tion to stop at Jhelum. Some of the fur-producing animals are greatly in request. The marmot, the hill fox, the jackal, a lynx-like wild cat, three or four varieties of flying squirrel, including an almost bl»ck variety from the Pir Panjal, an excessively handsome little maiten, frtom Tilail, the common pine marten, and a few weasels are those generally to be purchased. Otter ekins are rarely to be bought, and are expensive. ETC. 13 Messrs. Hume and Marshall's exhaustive treatise on the pame "birds of India gives a long list of hill pheasants, par- tridges, &e., so that but few remarks are necessary. TIte monaul, the koklass, the kaleege, the ram chikore, and the common chikore are in places fidrly common in Kashmir. Wild fowls are numerous on the various lakes. Wooilcock are to be found. Snipe are found in Kashmir. Sandgrouse in Thibet. The cheer pheasant, black partridges, wood partridges and other game birds abound in some of our own Himalayas. The so-called Argus of sportsmen is very rare in Kashmir, but is more plentiful in Chumba and near Kishtwar. Hares are common in many places, but are not found ia Kashmir proper. As I intend to devote one chapter to small game shooting, I do not think it necessary to go into any great details here, for but few people care to follow birds in Kashmir. 14 THE SPOKTSMAN's GUIDK TO CHAPTER IV. The Markhor (Capra megaceros and Capra falconeri). In Kashmir, Markhor; Sache of Ladak ; and also called in A star the Boom. This splendid wild goat is far more difficult to obtain than the Ibex, and is consequently more higlily prized. On the shooting grounds which are open to the European sportsmen, fiue old bucks are seldom met with, and rarely a good trophy is obtained. A pair of massive horns, over 50 inches in length, is worth many long days of really hard work. In fact an old male Markhor's head from the Pir Panjal, from the Astor mountains, from Sheik Budin, or from any locality, and of whatever variety, is a trophy worth the most artistic setting up, and when set up, a place of honour on the wall of the room or ball. (Index map). Some of the heads from the Pir Panjal are very handsome ; they have fine massive sweeping curves, and occasionally three complete spirals. I have lately seen a pair 47 inches in length, and doubtless larger do exist. Adams mentions obtaiuing one of 485 inches. In the Kaj-nag and Shamshibri ranges very good heads are still to be obtained, but they vary much in appearance and thickness. Annexed are the measurements of two pairs of horns shot in the same staik ; both these bucks were very old ones, the teeth being worn away ; in fact some were missing. It will be seen at a glance what different appearances these horns presented : — Length along tJie curve. Girth. Divergency at tips. No. of spirals. 53 inches ... Scinches ... 26 inches ... 2i 43 „ ... 11 >. - 31 .. ••• 2J The longer of the two reminded me forcibly of the Markhor from the Sheik Budin hills. The spirals were sharp, but the horns lacked the roundness of that variety. I have no large horns from Sheik Budin to measure, nor do I remember haviug Been any of great length. A friend, who knew the shooting on those hills in their palmy days, says that the largest pair he succeeded in obtaining were 36 inches in length. Prom Afghanistan 1 possess a pair of 35 inches, which are said to be good specimens, and are the largest I have come across. They are massive up to the top, round in section, aad afford a striking contrast to the next variety — the Astor, or Nunga Purbat Markhor. This animal is larger than its representative in Kashmir proper. Many stand as much as eleven hands, whereas the largest I Missing Page KASHMIR AND LADAK, KTO. 15 liftve seen in other localities barely reached ten and a lialf hands. The curves of the horns are bold and flat, the diver- gency at the tips great, and the massiveness, which is shown to such advantage by the single twist, leads this variety to be con- sidered by most people the handsomest of the four. Some very fine specimens have been brought down from the Astor shooting grounds, amongst them single horns of 63 and 61 inches, and I have lately measured a head with horns™ Length along curve. Girth. Diver genoy at tips. 52 inches ... 12^ inches ... 43 inches. 1 have seen several pairs which had been picked up in the snow about this size, but unluckily they were all more or less damaged. Trophies of this size are rare, and a hard-working sportsman who wintered on the Gilgit side of the passes in order to obtain some fine heads, was only successful in getting one good specimen out of the thirteen he shot. Few men are capable of doing more than the gentleman I allude to, and rare indeed ia a head with horns much over 50 inches in length. For localities in the different tracts of country where sport ia likely to be obtained, I begin with the Pir Panjal, and mention Sallarand Jarginee and the Tosha-Maidan near the Norpal Pass. The Chotagullee and the Chitapani, these two rivulets join and form the Posheana river. Beyond the Pir Pass towards the Koonjenag range, Markhor do not appear to wander. The suitable season is as soon as the snow is sufficiently melted to allow of the game being followed, lu most years this is not before the 10th of May. In the Kaj-nag range, the Kutai nullah, which is marked on the map, is a first-rate place, and after a mild winter it should be visited in Marcli. A little later try the Luchipoora nullahs, vig., the Malangan, the Bawni, the G-oojur and Puch. This last is recommended in the rutting season (which is in Decem- ber) provided the snow has fallen, if not the grass is so dry, and the leaves crackle so noisily under the most careful tread, that stalking is only waste of time. In April the Limbur nulli\hs, particularly the two branches of the Khar Kohl, of which the local names are the Gaumlitter and Metahwyan, are the resort of large Markhor. With the exception of the Kutai, ■these ravines are all small, and do not stand much firing. For the Shamshibri mountains May is a good month. These hills lie to the nortii of Kaj-nag. The Markhor frequents the ground as far as Teetwal on the Kishengunga river. In the provinces of Baltistan, Aator, Rendu, and Gilgit there are wide hunting fields and emlless hills and ravines, most of which hold Markhor and Ibex. To avoid repetition I shall not, when writing on tlie Ibex, go over the same ground which I am now enteriug upon, but will ask the reader to remember that 16 THK sportsman's GUIDE TO fine Ibex are to be got in nearly all the places I am about to mention. It would far exceed the limits of one chapter if I were to enumerate all the likely spots; and moreover it would be useless, as they could not be traced on the maps. Unfortunately, although the outlines of the various hills and streams are marked, but few places are named. Take up the quarter sheets 27 A. S. B. and 27 A. N. E., and I will endeavour to guide the traveller to the spots I am anxious to point out. On 27 A. S. E. will be found the Astor river. Marchin^r down the river, Duskin is reached. On the right bank of the river, and opposite to Duskin, is the Ditchell ravine; then comes the Shelterie ; then Dutch nar. Tiiis last is near the junction of the Astor with the Indus. Sportsmen who have shot over these nullahs during the month of May have nearly always seen good heads of both the wild goats. Between the junctiim and Boonjie is the nullah of the same name. Now glance up north of Boonjie, the small stream which joins the left bank of the Indus, and on the extreme edge of the map is the Musken. On the same bank, but higher up the river, and next to the Musken, is the Bellachee nuUali. The Bellachee and the next ravine, the Bulteree, have their heads amongst the glaciers which lie due east of Boonjie. Close to Bulteree is the Durdoth which enters the Indus at Sapser. The Juchee is a branch of this last ravine. At last we find a place that is marked on every map — Bondu. Across the river the range above Rendu holds good Markhor, the best ground being the Achkor stream which joins the Indus due west of Kondu. Now take up the other map 27 N.',E., and use it in conjunction with the S. E. map. At the bend of the Indus stands the small village of Haramosh and the ravine which takes its name. Next to it should be the well known Baralomah; but here I must stop ; either the maps, or the joint information of several sportsmen who know the ground is incorrect. Now look at the Nunga Purbat mountain. The northern slopes are doubtless good ground ; but it is not a country over which much travelling can be done, for the inhabitants of Cbilas are not renowned for hospitality ! In the summer the Dognee and Huttoo Pir might advantageously be wandered over. Again turn to Boonji. After crossing the Indus, Dumoot and Changroot can be visited, also Monaor and the Shingaigye, and to the west of Gilgit is Kirgah. Here are the extreme borders where it is safe to travel. In fact at the time that I am penning these lines, these shooting grounds are closed. A sheet showing Gilgit and the vicinity is now available, and any one wishing to visit the vicinity should certainly purchase it. The day may come when the Yasseiu and other tribes Missing Page KASHMIR AND LADAK, ETC. 17 will be less turbulent, so some notes by the late Mr! Hayward are given. The reader is perhaps aware that Mr. Hayward was mur- dered by the tribesmen in 1870 when on his second expedition to those parts. He wrote after his fiist journey ■ " For big Ibex and Markhor, the head of the Shingye valley, west of Gilgit fort, above the village of Bargoo, fourteen miles from Gilgit, towards Tassein. Two small nullahs joining Bargoo hold good Ibex at their heads, near the Boomeril or Booril peak." A friend who shot over the Shingye not long since used tlie expression : " I saw the biggest Markhor and Ibex in the Hima- layas." Unluckily he was recalled by the British Eesident at G-ilgit before he could leave his mark on the game. The whole of the country described is particularly suitable for Markhor. lu the winter mouths they can descend into lower country, and in the summer, they can wander up to almost any elevation. Unlike the Ibex, the Markhor doe.s not delight in snow, and I think I am correct in stating that the latter are not found in countries that are not adjacent to low- lying hills not exceeding 7,500 feet elevation. From Kondu to Boonjie the Indus valley varies from about 6,600 to 4,600 feet above the sea. Markhor are gregarious, and are sometimes met with in very large herds. The small males and females may be seen together at all seasons, but the older bucks often hold aloof from the main gathering. In their winter coat of grey they are difficult to discern, for they often stand motionless amongst the rocks which are of the same color. Again, when the under fleece has been shed, and the animal presents a reddish or brownish hue, they are still more difficult to see when in the dried-up grass. When in the forest, none but an experienced eye will find them out. The black beard and masses of hair on the neck and breast add greatly to the beauty of the trophy, and the shikari should be warned not to cut the throat from ear to ear in the orthodox fashion, but to leave the full length of neck skin intact. This caution is given, for the sportsman is not likely to have many chances of procuring really fine specimens, and may bitterly regret the loss of a good headskin. The female is an insignificant looking animal, with horns of about ten or eleven inches in length. I have never shot one, so I cannot give any measurements or weights. A fuH-growa buck will scale 2401bs., and sometimes more. No one should start on a trip after this game unless he is prepared to exercise the greatest patience, and to shovv the most dogged perseverance. Big bags of fine Ibex are made, but I have never heard of a big bag of fine Markhor, and should think myself well repaid by obtaining one fair shot for each 3 18 THE sportsman's GDIDE TO fortnight on the shooting ground. The best bags I know of were as follows: A sportsman wintering near Qilgit bagged 13 Markhor, the largest was 48 inches ; none of the others coming up to 40 inches in length. Another gun bagged 9 animals in Kashmir, the largest was just under 50 inches, and a few were very fair heads. A third bag was 11 animals with one fairly good one. Shooting Markhor, to make a numerically big bag, must simply be killing a number of animals whose heads the gunner is ashamed to show. KASHMIR AND LADAK, ETC. 19 CHAPTER V. Ibex [Capra Sibirka). In Kashmir, Eet/l ; in Ladah, Slcyin ; in Astor, Mayar. The dimensions of a full-grown male from the Wardwau Height at shoulder. Length of iody. Tail. 38 inches ... 54 inches ... 8 inches ... ISSlbs. The heaviest weighed was 2081b8. ; the head and horns 36lbs. ; but this animal was decidedly above the general size. A female stood 32 inches, and scaled 1041bs. The average length of horns of the female is 10 inches. Any horns over 35 inches round the curve are worth preserving ; if over 40 inches, tlieyare fine; 45 inches and upwards are rare. Since writing my letter to the Asian, I have seen some very good horns, and therefore add them to the list I then gave. The longest horns I have personally inspected are — Length. Oirth. Locality from mlience obtained. 50 inches ... 11 inches ... Not known. 50 „ ... 10 „ ... Tilail (Kashmir). 49 „ ... 11 „ ... Lidarwat (Kashmir). 48 „ ... 12 „ ... Krishnye (Ward wan). 48 „ ... 10 „ ... Boonji. 48 „ ... 10 „ ... Pamir (brought down by traders). 48 „ ... 10 „ ... . Kulsi (Ladak road). 46 „ ... 12* „ ... Krishnye. 45 „ ... 13 „ Ditto. together with a few more of 45 inches in length which mostly came from the Wardwan, but one of which was from the Sindh valley above Gugangair. Doubtless larger have been and still will be Bhey are very difficult to approach ; by rising before the mist is off the water, and standing. on the edge of the lake, a choke bore will generally bring to bag a few Geese and Mallards. Nothing but a punt gun is of any use on Woolar lake. Near Sumbul there are two jheels which I have seen literally covered with duck, but I never could get near them, and used to consider myself lucky if I bagged three or four birds. Teal are to be got at on the Anchar lake, also on various pools and streams, and in midwinter on Manasbal. The fact is, the wild fowl get into the open water during the day, and at night go to their feeding grounds. Flight shoot- ing can be practised on the Dal lake and on the shores of the Woolar, but if the spoitsman has been accustomed to really good duck-shooting in India, he will probably not get enough shots to satisfy him. Every boatman has a gun, and it is a regular case of file firing all day long. The wretched birds have no peace anywhere. During a very severe winter, when the big lakes and the Jhelum are blocked with ice, there must be plenty of wild-fowl-shooting, but, as I have before remarked, it must be very difficult to get about during such a season. In British territory there is really some very pretty shooting to be obtained iii the Himalayas. Par be it from me to help the Monaul destroyers in any way ; they have done damage enough, and but for our reserved forests, the bright- plumaged game birds bid fair to become extinct. Not long ago in a Government forest I counted no less than nineteen cock Monaul during one morning's walk. Five years ago there were scarcely any ; but before the mania for bright feathers set in, it was easy to get six or seven brace of Pheasants, of which three or four birds would be Monaul on any winter's day in these woods. I could not very well mention better places for Pheasant- shooting than I have done, when speaking of various animals, such as the Gooral, &o. I have never tried to make a bag of Pheasants, so that what I have done should not be taken as what could be done. It so happens that I have spent several winters in the Himalayas and have only shot what I required. Often there was no, one to give the birds to, and I have always had a great admiration for them, and felt unwilling needlessly to destroy them. Ohikore have, however, been the exception to this rule. Day after day have I toiled after them, and never have I got beyond a bag of ten or twelve brace. They are the most aggravating creatures in existence ; they spoil one's dogs, and regularly tire one out ; but still they afford splendid exercise, and it is a very triumphant feeling, when, during some morning's walk, one has scored against them. Chikore are §4< THE sportsman's GUIDE TO very fond of yew berries, and their little weakness told strongly against them on one occasion when I was encamped on a ridge. I could not give up much time to the birds, but I did square a few accounts during those ten days. As I before remarked Hume and Marshall's book has so lately come through the Press that a long dissertation on G-ame Birds would be useless. Pheasants and Partridges, both rare and common, are there fully described. I have, therefore, almost entirely confined my remarks on small game to what may be found in Kashmir ; and have purposely omitted one or two of the rare species, as the visitor will probably not come across them ; and if he does, can find them out in the book referred to. In Ladak the small game is very useful in helping out one's limited cuisine ; and none more so than are the hares. There are several varieties to be found, and they are all first-rate eating ; not nearly so dry and insipid as the Indian animal. There are hundreds of hares under the Marsemik pass in some of the Gya nullahs, and also near Shooshal. Hares are found at Gilgit, and in endless other places. They afford very pretty shooting with a pea rifle, when the sportsman is loth to disturb his shooting ground by frequent discharges of his shot gun. Mr. Sterndale has given us a long list of the various hares. Before perusing it I had no idea there were so many species and I expect but few men had. KASHMIR AND LADAK, ETC. 85 CHAPTER XXV. Hints on preserving horns and sJcinsfrom decay. All the horns of the Antelopes, Goats and Sheep are very apt to be pierced through and destroyed by insects. The reason is this : between the sheath and the core there is a great deal of blood and other matter. Few people take the trouble to take the horn off this core ; the matter putrefies, and the grubs are born, and speedily destroy the beauty of the specimen. Unless you see the horns taken off with your own eyes do not believe that the Srinaggar mocJiees have done it. "When the horns have been loosened by the mochees, I invariably adopt the same plan. It has answered well ; so I give it for the information of my readers who can try it or not, as they like. Take off the horn and pour into it kerosine oil, taking care not to let the oil touch the outside of the horn, as it blackens it, and spoils the natural color. After the oil has remained in a few seconds, empty it out into another horn. Next with a saw cut off the top of the core ; it will be found to be composed of a cellular substance. Into these cells put plugs of wool or old cloth soaked in kerosine oil, or else in turpentine. Close the openings of the cells with wax if turpentine is employed. Eound the core wrap some native cotton thread in order to make the sheath fit tightly, and with ordinary care the head should keep for ever. If it is intended to have the horn set up by an English taxidermist, doing anything more than cleaning the core is useless. In some of the damper parts of India, where it is diiScult to keep horns at all, it is advisable to varnish them, but not with any substance which would discolor them. I always use the most colorless spirit varnish I can get, and then dilute it with an equal bulk of turpentine. It evaporates, but can be put on yearly if necessary. It is a mistake to polish a horn ; it spoils its value as a specimen ; you create a false impression of nature. A Bison's horns look pretty when polished, but amongst a collection it renders them out of place. Never boil a skull ; remove the flesh with a knife, then let maceration do the rest. It is a tedious business to clean the skull by letting it macerate in water, but it is the only way to make the bone look well. Stag's head having solid horns are easily preserved. Nothing more is necessary than to remove all dirt and other matters from them. When obtained slightly covered with velvet, let 8G THE sportsman's guide to tliem dry a little, rub in some kerosiiie oil, and set tbe velvet on fire with a match. It is a better plan than stripping off the velvet by hand. If the points have not set hard, it remains with the sportsman to settle whether they are worth keeping or not ; I should say decidedly not, unless as a memento of some very memorable stalk or drive. Skins are easiest tanned if they have never been dried at all, but if the furrier lives at any distance, they must be dried, but never do so in the sun. If there is no shade available put up some blankets over them during the mid-day hours. If dried in the forests see that it is not done under a resinous fir, or at any rate that no resin touches the air. Be very careful that all fatty matter is removed from Bear skins ; once the fat has thoroughly soaked into the skin, the Indian dressers cannot remove it, and the skin remains hard and unpliant. When Bear skins are sent in from a distance, more specially if in dry climate and a scorching sun, cover the fleshy side with birch bark or cloth. Of course wrap the skin up so that the hair is not injured. Head skins are often troublesome to deal with. I have warned the lucky possessor of good speicmens to be sure and leave on plenty of the neck skin. This is more specially neces- sary in the case of Markhor, Oorial, Ther and maned or bearded animals in general. The eyes and lips require very careful skinning, and in hot climates arsenical soap, or some other preservative, is required. In cold climates, alum, well rubbed into the fleshy portions, is sufficient. Beware of wood ashes ; many a skin is spoilt by the coolies taking ashes from the fire before they have cooled down. The Kashmir shikaris are too fond of overstretching the head skiri by inserting a bow of willow wood to keep it from shrivelling up. The ends of this bow should be tied together with string, or the pressure exerted by the wood to regain its natural shape stretches the mouth and eye openings beyond remedy. ,= When skinning the head make the incision along the back of the neck, not below the chin. If you really care for making a collection you cannot do better than buy Mr. Eowland Ward's treatise on these subjects. I would sooner have one head of each variety of game artistically set up, and the remainder with simply the skull and horns than any number " stuffed ;" but it is very difficult to keep set-up heads in India from spoiling. • Why buy arsenical paste? Tou can make it very quickly, and for the merest trifle. Arsenic in very fine powder by weight, one part; soap cut into shreds and boiled, two parts, or more of the latter if a strong preparation is not required. Mix ETC. 87 well, and just before it cools add a little turpentine, but not when too hot, or it will evaporate. Some people add camphor, but I do not see any use in doing this. It is scarcely worth while to tan skins yourself; the furriers will, if they do not use salt, probably do it better and as cheap. Any really cared-for specimens should be at once sent to England. In the plains, the teeth of Tigers or Leopards must be encased in wax, or they will split when exposed to the air and sun. This remark only applies to the hot and dry months. 88 THE spohtsman's guide to CHAPTER XXVI. Fishing in Kashmir- TangroU and North- West general! ff. I HAVE now come to the most difBcult chapter to write. I have tried a great many of the smaller rivers with fly ana with spoon-bait, with worms, and various other baits ; but have never made much of it. Tlie streams in the Nowboog valley hold plenty of the fish which are called by courtesy trout, but they will not take freely. At certain seasons of the year, all the small tributaries teem with fish, the Liddar and the Sindh being as good as any ; but Iiow to catch them in any quantity by means of rod, line, and hook I have never dis- covered. In the Jhelum during June, July and August T have had some very fair fishing at Sumbul bridge. The fish take a small spoon freely. The best sport I had was in August. At this place I have not seen very large fish ; the average caught with the spoon-bait are about SIbs. weight. The largest do not exceed 8 to lOas. Lower down the river at Ninghel where the Jhelum leaves the Woolar lake and passes out in the direction of Sopoor, very big mahseer are killed during the summer months. There is a famous run at Sopoor bridge and a fairly good one by the Baramulla fort. Below this again there is some grand looking water, but I have never heard of any large takes except at Sopoor and in the vicinity. Below the Shukardin Ziarat, on the Woolar lake, will be seen a promontory composed of rock ; near this fishing is to be had. Trolling from a boat is often successful, but t)ie most killing bait is a frog. The frog should be tied on to the hook, and on the line at a distance of about eighteen inches from the bait a weight is fastened. The weight sinks to the bottom and keeps the frog down, but of course it has eighteen iuches of play. This method of poaching is generally only employed at night. In the various lakes the small fish can be speared from a boat, and on the Manasbal several fishermen are daily at work. Every conceivable description of poaching is resorted to by the Kashmiris. Branches of streams are ■ turned and tlie wretched fish left high and dry. Unfortunatelv the villagers are too lazy to turn the water back again, and millions of younw fry are destroyed. ° Grass is thrown into the rivers in the winter; the fish cret into the cover thus afforded them, and the fisherman spears ETC. 89 them with a long handled murderous looking weapon Still the rivers in the valley teem with fish ; the Woolar, Dal, and other sheets of water afford refuges and safe breeding places. With a fly composed of white feathers and a bit of crimson cloth I have had fair sport on the summer evenings near many of the Jhelum bridges. On the Bhimber route there is good Mahseer fishing at Nowshera. At liajoori, four marches from Bhimber, Mahseer up to lOlbs. in weight can be killed with grilse flies. The best flies are red hackle with golden pheasant tip and bustard wing. At the famous and well-known Tangrote, (Index Map) grand sport is to be had. Tangrote is twenty-eight miles from Jhelum, and, as many of my readers are aware, it is the spot where the Poonch joins the Jhelum river. At Denah there is a railway statinu which is only thirteen miles from Tangrote bungalow. Tiie return journey to Jhelum may be made by boat and takes about seven hours. Within three hundred yards of the fishing there is a good bungalow. This is in British territory, but the fishing is done in Kashmir waters. In the bouse, the tariff for boats is posted up ; moreover a fishing register is kept, and shows the sport obtained for many years back. The register goes a long way towards proving that March and October are the best months in the year. During heavy rain the Poonch comes down in flood, and no fishing is to be obtained at Tangrote. A friendly angler has kindly given the following information : — " If the Poonch is muddy go to Kotli. This place is four marches up the Poonch, and when that river is not fishable, sport may be had in the tributary at Kotli. The fish in this small river will take fly, and can be obtained up to 151bs. in weight by this method ; whilst on a spoon they are taken up to 401bs." For Tnngrote waters I think I am correct in recommending a four-inch gilt spoon to be used. For a fishing outfit for the valley of Kashmir, I would take a stifiP trolling rod, big winch and a couple of lines, not less than one hundred yards each. A light fly rod, a winch, and a trout line, a hank of gut, gilt spoons, and a few small horn baits. For flies, a few ordinary trout flies of almost any description, some big white moths, and any grilse flies in which bustard wing predominates. In the mulberry season small fish are to be caught with this fruit used as a bait, but it is very poor sport. I cannot attempt to enumerate all the rivers in the North- West and Punjab where I have patiently fished, and too often with indifferent success, but mention the Giri in Nahun territory ; the junction of the Asun river with the Jumna in the Western Dun ; the junction of the Tonse river with the Jumna below Kalsi in the same Dun. The Ganges and 90 THE sportsman's GUIDE TO KASHMIR AND LADAK, ETC. Eamguncra are good in their seasons, but the best sport I have had was in the Sardah on the Nepaul frontier. October is generally a good month, and so are February and March. Again when most of the snow water has cleared off in June 1 have secured some fish in the Jumna. For the Mandagni river, which is in the Rajah of Tiree's territory, the summer months are good. Towards the Changchenmo, on the road between Tankse and the Marsemik, the small streams yield a few fish to the angler ; but many more to the coolie, who catches them in his bands. The fish lie under the banks which are hollowed out by the scour, and are easily caught by the Kashmiris, who, as I before stated, are adepts at all poaching devices.