MICHELIN ILLUSTRATED GUIDES II^aI fO THE BATTLEFIELDS (1914-1918) SOISSONS BEFORE AND DURING THE WAR HICHELIN & Ci» —I CLERMONT MICHEUK TYRE C" L"i - «ii, Fulhiim Road, MICHELIN TIRE Co _ MILLTOWN, N AND KDON, S. W |., U. S. A. Ii3K OfotttcU UttttJcrattg ffiihracg lltt)aca, UStm ^orh BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE JACOB H. SCHIFF ENDOWMENT FOR THE PROMOTION OF STUDIES IN HUMAN CIVILIZATION 1918 Date Due M i i '/ j"0 n iQqn 1 MMi^a "T"TO Key to Arbitrary Signs ISiii^ Comfortable hotels, with modern, or modernised installation. ish Well-manaeed hotels. [CC] Central Heating [l] Electric Light. [B] Bath-room. [WC] Modem W. C's. ® i- 09 Telephone Number. [ 'Accommodation for auto- Shed [30] \ mobiles, and the number Shelter [201 / °'^ ^^^^ which can be V put up. • COMPBESSEO AIR ' Depdt for * bou- Ifeill^ a/ed iy continuous lines, in the direction of the arrows. The numbers indicate the pages where the corresponding photographs will be found- 14 PANORAMIC VIEW OF SOISSONS SOISSONS IN 1914, seen from the Northern Tower of Saini-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey. The German bombardments made countless ruins throughout the town. Everywhere one sees shattered walls, hanging roofs, and heaps of rubbish and stones that once were houses. The ruins are gradually being cleared away, to make room for the new life which is springing up, but signs of the destruction will long remain. -1 gas J ^^^^ !ii K^HHlHuffiDI -i . ■si% 1 ' - ^&mi ii 'lii/ [ ■- Tj|i"BH mm ■^PSm ^5 1 SOISSONS IN NOVEMBER 1918. Noie the separation of the Cathedral Towar fr-om the Nave {pp; 19-24) THE CATHEDRAL 15 VISIT TO THE CITY AND ITS SURROUNDINGS (See plan, p. 12 and itineraries, pp. 13&52). Do not miss : The Cathedral (p. 15) ; the ruins of the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes (p. 44). Archaeological Curiosities : the Church and Cloister of Saint- Linger (p. 35) ; THE OLD Church of Saint-Pierre-au-Parvis (p. 42); THE Crypt of the old Abbey of Saint-M^dard (p. 61). Other sights : the Maison de l'Arquebuse (p 43). the Museum (p. 40). Souvenirs and traces of the war : the ruins in the town, the Mail (p. 54), the bridges (pp. 55 & 63) the faubourg St Waast (p. 62), THE military works from Vauxrot to St. Paul (pp. 56-61). Two itineraries are given, each starting from and returning to the Cathedral, which include all points of interest in the city and its environs : First Itinerary (p. 13) The City (pp. 15-51). Second Itinerary (p. 52) The Surroundings (pp 53-63). FIRST ITINERARY — VISIT TO THE CITY THE CATHEDRAL In April 1919, visitors entered through the door in the Place du Cloitre (see pp. 29 & 33). The Cathedral of Soissons (H.M.) may be considered as a miniature of THE CATHEDRAL IS NOVEMBER 1918. 16 THE CATHEDRAL THE CATHEDRAL BEFOUE THE "WAR. The unfinished main front had only one tower that of Amiens. For the purity ol its lines and simplicity of arran- gement, it is probably the finest of the secondary Cathedrals in France. It was very quickly built, of hard Soissons stone, and is peculiar in that building began at the south arm of the transept, - primitive Gothic in style, - during the last third of the 12th century. Next were built, in pointed Gothic, the choir (completed in 1212) then the nave. The main body of the cathedral was completed in the middle of the 13th century, with the exception of the high parts of the main front (on which a single tower was built in the 14th century) and of the fafade of the north arm of the transept (also 14th century). The cathedral of Soissons, like that of Arras, has greatly suffered in its vital parts. The nave, which partly fell in during 1915-1916, was, with the aisles, entirely destroyed by the end of 1918. The tower, which, though severely damaged by enemy shell-fire, was still stand- ing, collapsed at the same time. The transept and choir alone escap- ed with slight damage. Principal Fa9ade of the Cathedral. The West front contains three doorways, finished about 1230, but disfigured in the 18th century by roughcast, which destroyed their 13th century decoration, since replaced by pseudo-Gothic ornament. Sec Ilineranj, p. 13. 17 1Y%A: THE TOWKE IN JUN'E 1915. The collapse of the multion laid bare the frameworli of the helfry. Above the large rose-window, set in a tierce-point arch, rises a graceful gallery composed of double arches surmounted by gables, which is carried all round the single tower, about 241 feet in height. The tower comprised on each front two long bays separated by a raullion. Its later date was noticeable chiefly in the statues of apostles, saints and bishops, sheltered beneath finely carved canopies, which ornamented the corner abutments. Throughout the war, the German gunners made a constant target of the cathedral tower. In June 1915, large calibre shells caused the collapse of the great muUion separating the two bays on the west front, which fell to the ground, a large breach in the upper part of the tower laying bare the framework of the belfry" (photo above). The same collapse caused the fall of almost all the gables of the lower gallery, the left bay of which had previously been struck by several shells. Until 1918, no further damage of importance was done to the fa- fade, but in August of that year, some days after the French had retaken Soissons, three sides of the tower (north, southland east) and the interior framework of the belfry were entirely destroyed by the 18 THE INTERIOR OF TI-IK CATHEDRAL THE TOWER IN MiEOH 1919. numerous German shells. In September 1918, all that remain- ed of the tower were the two buttresses at the north-west and south-west corners. By a miracle they remain poised, but loosened stones keep constantly crashing to the ground (photo opposite). All the arches ol the gallery above the large rose-window were also destroyed in August 1918. Interior of the Cathedral. The cathedral, over 300 feet in length, comprises : A Nave with seven bays and double side-aisles, with chapels of a later date added to the last four bays. A Transept, the south-arm of which ends in a semi-circle, and the north arm in a straight wall. A Choir with four bays and a semi-circular Apse surrounded by an ambulatory, off which open eight rectangular chapels, and, at the apse, five radial polygonal chapels. DOORWAY of NORTH ARM oF TRANSEPT A M B .'^A, Ada 'l^/ PLAN or THE CATHEDKAL A. — Pillar ol the Nave broken in 191.";. B. — Gallery of the old Cathedral Cloister. C. — Chapel in the South Arm. D. — .Vestry Passage (statue of Virgin and Child). E. — St. Uuffln's Chapel' (17th century statue of the saint). F. — St. VaWre's Chapel (17th century statue of the saint). n See Itinerary, p. 13. 19 The Nave before the Bombardments. Completed about 1230, the Nave now entirely destroyed - was regarded before the war as one ot the best examples of the harmonious simplicity of early 13th century Gothic architecture. The central vault was about 103 feet in height. The bays were divided by columns flanked on the side facing the grand nave by a small engaged shaft. On their fine capitals, deco- rated with four rows of crockets or foliage, rested the large arches of the ground floor, and the groups of five small columns whichsupport- ed the springing of the pointed arches of the vault. The large arcades were surmounted by a shallow triforium and high double windows with dividing mullions. The wide, lofty aisles with windows gave additional light to the body of the church. Their vaulting was poirtted and terminated at the last bays in chapels built for the most part in the 18th century. In the second bay of the north aisle, a gallery (B on plan), the remains of the old cathedral cloister, gave access to a large chapel (Chapelle des GEuvres) with two naves of three bays. It was the old chapter-house, built in the 13th century, by prolonging the west front but completely remodelled in the 19th century. THE NAVE BGFOKE THE BOMBARDMENTS. 20 DESTRUCTION OF THE NAVE SOniHERN AISLl ANB TRirOMUM, NOVEMBER 1918. See Ilinerarij, p. 13. 21 The destruction of the Nave and fall of the Pillar. Early in February 1915, a projectile, entering by a hole made by a previous shell in the wall of the south aisle, struck the second column (A on plan, p. 18) on the left of the main nave, which was broken in two about 13 feet from the ground (photos pp. 20-21). The upper part, with the capital and courses supporting the springing of the vault, gave way, dragging down in its fall a portion of the vault and of the wall at the back of the triforium. The ruins accumulated rapidly. By the end of March, the roof of the grand nave and of the north aisle, which the broken pillar had sustained, collapsed. The whole of the triforium, the large window, the flying buttress outside, the framework, and the roofing of the bay of the aisle also gave way. An enormous breach was made in the cathedral, and the floor of the nave was covered with a shapeless mass of broken stones, which increased during the following months. THE GREAT NAVE AND NORTHERN .USLE, NOVEMBER 19]S., Behind the two nianding jtiUars is seen the base of the qnllar which coltapsedin Feb. 1915, Thejatl islshown on f. 20, 22 COLLAPSE OF THE VAULTING THE FALLEN VAULTING LEFT BAR> THE DAMAGED FRAMEWORK OF THE ROOF. Sec Ilincrary, p. 13. 23 BREACH rX THE NOVBMBEU 1919 The fall of the Vaulting. The vaults ol the remaining bays, already weakened, could not withstand the renewed bombardments. One after another they craslied to the ground, with the exception of those of the first and seventli bays. Everywhere else, pieces of broken or disjointed framework, supporting a completely ruined roof, are exposed to view {pholo above). Several of the large windows on the north side liave also fallen in and all the stained glass has been smashed. 24 DESTRUCTION OF THE NAVE The Final Ruin. The bombardments of 1918 destroyed the nave beyond hope of repair. . Several large pillars collapsed and a considerable portion of the upper part of the side walls, large arches and trlforium fell in to the right and left. Three bays near the west front, with their large arches and the aisles were complete- ly destroyed. All this ma- sonry fell inside the nave, forming across its entire breadth a heap of debris more than 19 feet high and about 33 feet long. Fragments of vaulting, bases of pillars, stones from the roof, were mixed in shapeless chaos with a quantity of architectural and sculptured motives, nota- bly the beautiful capitals and the key-stones of the vault, of ruins the roof-timbers of And on this heap deprived of all support, fell by degrees in their mostly broken the framework, turn. The old harmonious construction of the nave is now to be seen only in the bays nearest the transept. The Chapelle des GEuvres was struck several times. The most serious damage was caused during the first bombardments of 1914 by a shell which exploded on the roof of the gallery {B on plan p. 18, photo below) which leads to the chapel. Penetrating the roof and the framework, it caused the vault to fall in, broke the arches, and shattered the stained-glass of the chapel windows. OALIEEY GITINa ACCESS TO THE CHAPELI/E DES (ETJVEES, NOV. 1918. See lUneiartj, p. 13. SOUTH A1!M OF TRANSEPT. See the exterior, p. 2!). South Arm of the Transept. The bombardments have spared the south arm of the transept, a marvel of grace and simphcity, built about 1175, by Bishop Xivelon of Clierisy. It is the oldest and also the least elevated portion of the cathedral. The arm of the transept ends in a semi-circle (a peculiarily which it shares with those of the old Cathedral of Xoyon and numerous Rhenish churches) and is surrounded by an ambulatory. In style it differs distinctly from that of the rest of the building, and presents the distinguishing features of primitive Gothic. The triforium — which elsewhere consists only of a narrow gallery — is here double. It comprises a story of high, wide, arched tribunes, grouped three and three, surmounted by n narrow passage with grace- ful colonnettes.. The main vault is supported by six pointed ribs which intersect in a central key-stone ornamented with six angels. The south arm of the transept is lighted by three series of windows. Small semi-circular bays are cut in the wall of the ambulatory. The galleries are lighted — except on the right, which is ornamented with rose-windows — by tiercc-point windows in groups of IJirco. Tlicrc is a final row of high tierce-point windows, also in groups of three, above the triforium. 26 THE TRANSEPT AND CHOIK Some of the capitals are masterpieces of ornamental sculpture. Their decoration consists either of the foliage characteristic of Roma- nesque capitals (acanthus leaves) or of projecting crockets, — one of the earliest examples of this distinctive ornament of Gothic capitals. On the east side of the south arm of the transept there is a two- storied polygonal chapel (C on plan, p. 18) of the same period. The keystone of the vault of the lower chapel represents two angels car- rying the Agnus Dei on a cloth. The upper chapel, in which the Trea- sure was formerly kept, communicates with the galleries. < The Choir and Apse. The choir, where, on the completion of the south arm of the transept. Bishop Nivelon of Ch^risy continued the building of the Cathedral (1200-1212), is one of the earliest examples of Pointed Gothic — so- called on account of the sharp outline of the arches. A notable char- acteristic of this is the transformation of the wide galleries of the triforium into a narrow gallery, which gives greater importance to the wide arches of the ground floor and to the high windows of the upper story. Its general plan is similar to that of the nave, built immediately afterwards : lofty wide arches, narrow triforium, high windows (but without mullions, forming a single bay), and pointed vaults of rectan- gular plan. The Choir is flanked by side-aisles, off which open, on each side tour rectangular chapels with groined vaults. The second chapel of the aisle has an inscription recording the date on which the Canons took possession of the Choir : Anno milleno biscenteno duodena hunc inlrare chorum Cepit grex canonicorum tercio idus maii. ■ (In the year 1212, on the third Ides of May, the Canons firs^ took possession of the Choir). See Itinerary, p. 13. 27 The south side-aisle communicates with the chapel attached to the south arm of the transept by a 15th century vaulted corridor (D on plan p. 18) in which there is a fine 16th century statue of the Virgin and Infant seated. The two side-aisles continue round the semi-circular apse, form- ing an ambulatory surrounded by five shallow radial chapels. The central chapel is consecrated, as usual, to the Virgin. The pointed vaults of the chapels unite with those of the ambulatory, eight pointed ribs meeting in the same keystone. The choir, scarcely touched by enemy fire up to December 1916, suffered more serious damage then and in January 1917. Shells pierced the vault in two places and also penetrated several parts of the triforium wall, breaking the arches. In the apse, portions of the vault were injured and parts of the 13th century stained-glass, which it was not possible to remove from the high windows, were damaged. The vital parts of the choir escaped serious damage, and it was possible during the second half of 1917, to carry out temporary repairs after the retreat of the Germans. At the same time, in order to make the choir — as well as the transept, which had also escaped serious injury — once more available for public worship, a partition was built shutting off the nave (photo p. 24). This protective partition shielded part of the building very effect- ively in 1918, when the Choir and Transept escaped serious damage. Most of the fine 13th century stained-glass windows were removed in 1915 to a place of safety. They were originally taken from the church of Saint-Yved-de- Braines and inserted during the 19th century in the high windows of the apse and those of the Lady Chapel Thanks to the protective measures taken, the interior decoration of the choir escaped injury. It dates from the 18th century and comprises a high altar of marble, surrounded by a wrought-iron railing, and flanked by two marble statues of the Virgin and the Angel Ga- briel, depicting the Annunciation. Two consoles, of carved and gilded wood with marble tops, complete this group. The stalls only are 17th century. The North Arm of the Transept. The north arm of the transept, flanked by aisles, shows the same arrangement as the nave, but ends in a straight wall (late 13th century) which was ornamented in the 14th century. A clerestory gallery joining the triforium of the side walls, and carried on small, light columns, is built against this wall. Above are pierced a row of bays and a fine rose-window containing old stained glass. During the war, a fine picture by Rubens (1635), painted for the Franciscan Fathers in return for their having nursed him through an illness contracted at Soissons, was removed from the north arm of the transept to a place of safety. This picture, which represents the Adoration of the Shepherds, has a fine frame of carved and gilded wood of the Regency period. The bombardments did little damage to the north arm of the tran- sept and to the intersection of the transepts. The worst injury was the falling in of one of the vaults of the north arm, and the breaking of the arch-band uniting two of the large pillars of the transept. 28 THE ART TREASURES OF THE CATHEDRAL The art treasures. In addition to the worlis of art preserved in the choir and transept, tlie Cathedral pos- sesses a fragment of a 16th century tapestry, all that remains of^a large piece devo- ted^tOj,the legend of Saint- Gervais and Saint-Protais, which, before the War, hung in the north aisle of the nave. Before the War, at the entrance to the nave on each side of the main portal, were memorial statues of two ab- besses of the ancient abbey of Notre-Dame, represented kneeling, with folded hands, in the costume of the period : Henriette de Lorraine d'Elbeuj, abbess from 1660 to il669, and Gabrielle Marie de la Rochefoucauld (1683-1693). Photographs of these two statues are given below. In the sacristy are preserv- ed fragments of flamboyant style woodwork, a 17th century chalice of finely chased gilt silver, a magnificent Crucifix by Girardon and a fine reliquary in gilt copper (1560), representing the plan of Soissons with its battlemented walls and churches of the period. {See p. 3.) It 1 i^|iifiBLi[i^ WOODWORK IX THE SOUTHERN AISLE. HKSKIKTTE DE LORRAINE D'ELBEUF Funeral SUitues la Iwo n.VBRIELLE-MARIE DF LA HOCHl.riU'CAULT) of the old Abbey j}i Notre-Dame. Sec Uincrari], p. 13. 29 Side facades of the Cathedral. The exterior ol Soissons Cathedral is remarlVILI,E, Fnnil overlookinj (he tjarilt'ns Leaving Saini-Leijcr, turn lo llic lejl and follow Ihc line dc la Cunijn'- (jalion as far as the Hdtel-de-Ville. The H61el-de-Ville occupies the old HiHcl de I'liitendaiuo, buill in 1772 on the site of tlie old castle which belonycd to the Counts of Soissons in the Middle-Ages. Struck in various places by lari^c ca- libre shells, it suffered considerable damage (photo above). Its Museum and Library did not escape damage and wore, more- over pillaged, while some of the pictures in the museum were lacerat- ed. However, many objects were removed in time to be saved. The museum contains some fine sculpture, including : the tympa- num of a 13th century portal taken from the Church of Saint-Yvcd- de-Braisne, representing The Descent of Christ into Hades; another defaced 14th century tympanum from the cloister of Saint-,Jean-des- Vignes ; a Romanesque storied capital: Abraimm sacrificing Isaac (plwlo p. 41) ; other 12tli century capitals with foliage ; the carved lintel of a Renaissance mantelpiece ; the memorial statue of an Abbess of Kotre-Dame, etc. TRENCHES IN THE OAKDENS OF THE HuTEI-DE-VILLE. See Itinerary, p. 13. 41 The other rooms of the museum contain objects of the pre-historic or Gallo-Roraan epoch (e. g. Gallo-Roman dish in chased silver), an important collection of medals and ceramic ware, picture galleries, casts, etc... The Library contains over 50 000 volumes and 200 manuscripts. Among the latter should be noted : a beautifully illuminated 12th century Missal of Saint-M6dard ;• a Bible of Saint- Yved-de-Braisne (12th century) ; the Charters and Records of the Abbey of Saint-Jean- des-Vignes ; a very fine manuscript of the first half of the 14th centu- ry, with miniatures : The Pilgrimage of Human Life. ABRAHAM SACRIFICING ISAAC. Storied Roman Capital On leaving (he H6tel-de-Ville, follow on the left, the Rue de la Congre- gation, then take the first street on the right (Rue du Coq-Lombard) and go round the block of buildings on the right, bounded by the Rue du Coq-Lombard, Rue de Bauton and Rue des Francs-Boisiers which leads back to the Rue de la Congregation. This is one of the best preserved corners of old Soissons. In spite of later structural alterations, several houses built between the 14th and 17th centuries bear traces of their original construction. One of them (n" 5 in the court) has a curious doorway with a carved 14th century tympanum. A carved panel over the doorway represents the King of Spain bidding farewell to the King of- France. This doorway leads to a tower of the same period (restored), the upper part of which was struck by a shell. Atn" 11, in the Rue de Bauton is the Palais-de-Justice, partly des- troyed by shell-fire. On leaving the Rue des Francs-Boisiers (see ruins of burnt houses), follow the Rue de la Congregation on the right, then the Rue du Commerce (its continuation) as far as the Place Saint-Pierre : on the left are the ruins of the old Church of Sainl-Pierre-au-Parvis. 42 CHURCH OF SAINT-PIERRE-AU-PARVIS OHUHOH OF SAINT-PIEREE- Atr-PARTIS South fa^adi before the War The old Church of Saint-Pierre-au-Parvis (Hist. Man.) The apse, transept and three bays of the nave of the church, secu- larized at the time of the Revolution, were pulled down in 1800. The two remaining bays of the nave were greatly damaged during the war by the explosion of a store of grenades. The roof and most of the vaulting have been destroyed. Only the main front and the lower part of the south front (fine speci- CHTIRCH OF SAINT-PIEEKE- AXT-PARVIS. Novembet 1918. See Itinerary, p. 13. 43 mens of the Romanesque style of the middle of the 12th century) es- caped with slight injury (photo p. 42). At the corner of the Place Saint-Pierre and the Rue de la Vieille-Ga- jjnerie there are two semi-circular windows of great beauty, visible from the interior of the house no. 19-21. Supported by four small columns with storied capitals representing monsters and fantastic animals, these two windows (now blocked up and serving as a wall for the first-floor room of a restaurant) are all that remains of a large church which belonged to the old Abbey of Notre-Dame. This convent, founded in the 7th century , was rebuilt in 181h century. The new buildings, completely disfigured by interior alterations and having no further historical interest, were used as barracks dur- ing the war. They were destroyed .by the bombardments and fire. Take the Rue de la Gagnerie, turn to the right into the Rue de la Ban- niire, then again to the right into the Rue Notre-Dame, at the end of which is the Maison de I'Arquebuse hist, mon.), built in 1626 for the Guild of the Soissons Gunsmiths, and now devoted to military purposes (photo below). THE M.^ISON DE L'AEQUEBUSE. It is a lodge of brick and stone surmounted by a very steep roof, and containing a large hall lighted by ten bays. Its main front is em- bellished with ornaments of war. The entrance, built in 1638 by order of Marshal d'Estr^es, is Ionic in style and surmounted by an entablature decorated with trophies. The upper part of the entablature at the north-east corner of the doorway was destroyed by a shell, while others injured the roof of the lodge. Take the Rue des Feuillants opposite, then Rue Saint-Martin on the left, to the Place de la Ripublique, where are the Bourse du Commerce (1898) and the Monument to the Defence of Soissons in 1870 (inau- gurated in 1901). On the south side of the square and bordered by the river Crise, there is the fine garden of the Horticultural Society at present in very bad condition. Follow the Rue de Chdleon-Thierry, alongside the garden, then its con- tinuation, the Boulevard Jeanne d'Arc, which' makes a sharp bend, to the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes. 44 ABBEY OF SAINT- JEAN-DES-VIGNES ABBEY OF SAINT-JEAN-DES-VIGNES (Hist. Mon.) Founded in 1076, the Abbey of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes was one of the richest and most powerful monasteries of the Middle-Ages. The liberality of the Kings of France, bishops, nobility and middle classes enabled the monks in the 13th and 14th centuries to erect a large abbey-church and important monastic buildings, the plan of which has been preserved in an engraving of 1673, reproduced be loir. The plan is that followed almost invariably for monastic buildings. In the middle is the abbey-church. The monastery buildings pro- per : the rooms of the Regulars to which strangers are not admitted, the Novices' quarters, the dormitories and refectory, are grouped round the four galleries of the cloister, which extend from the south front of the church. On the east side of the cloister is a smaller cloister, abutting on which are the strangers' rooms : the refectory and dormitories. Behind, stands the isolated hospital with its own chapel. Near the entrance is the Abbot's house, and further to the east, the store-rooms. The entrance was fortified, and a continuous wall with roadway, loop-holes and watch-towers, completely encircled the Abbey. Beyond this wall stretched the vineyards and agricultural estates of the monastery. Although despoiled during the Hundred Years War, and later during the religious wars, the Abbey of Saint-Jean- des-Vignes remained rich and flourishing until the Revolution when the monks were expelled. Some years later (1805), an imperial decree issued at the request of the Bishop of Soissons, ordered the demo- lition of the church, the materials of which were to be used for repairing the cathedral. The protests of the inhabitants induced the Bishop to have the main front preserved. See Ilineranj, p. 13. 45 The Facade of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes before the War. Three late 13th century portals surmounted by gables open in the lafade. Under the central portal are two mutilated statues ; on the right, Saint-Augustin ; on the left : Saint-John the-Baptist clothed in the skin of an animal. A graceful clerestory gallery, continued at Ihe baclc round a wide platform, which at one time formed, a gallery above the grand nave, separates the central portal from the large rose-window set in an irregu- lar arch. The latter has lost its interior net-work of mullions and is surmounted by a gable. The gallery and rose-window are late 14th century. A two-storied tower crowned by a spire rises above each of the side portals. The first story dates from the end of the 14th century. The upper part, which differs in each tower, is more than a century later. The south tower (on the right of the photo below), was about 230 feet in height. The north tower, finished in 1520, was higher (about 244 feet) and more massive. On the first sto- ry ^in the niche next the large rose- window, a statue of the Virgin faces a statue of the An- gel of the Annun- ciation, which stands on the op- posite buttress of the south tower. Both stories of the north tower, separated by a Flamboyant gallery with very sharply pointed gables, are pierced with large bays divided by a muUion, On the west side, against the muUion of the upper bay, is a figure of Christ crucified. The octagonal spire, surrounded by four turrets, is pierced on each face by three openings of different sizes, the largest being under-most, while its angles are adorn- ed with project- ing crockets. FRONT OF THE ABBEY OF SI-JEAN- DES-VIGNES BEFOKE THE WAK. 46 ABBEY OF SAINT- JEAN-DES-VIGNES NORTH TOWER. SOUTH TOWER, THE EEONT IN 1918. THE BOOEWATS IS THE MAIS FRONT (1918). Pari of thu ornamental stone-worh was damaged bu fm in J S70. Keystones of the matting were shattered by shell-fere in 1914. See Itinerarij, p. 13. 47 SOUTH TOWER. !«OKTH TO WEB. THK REAK PIPE OF THE M.4IN FRONT. On the tefl: Entrance to the Cloister. rhe fagade of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes after the bombardments. Previously, in 1870, the fafade of the church liad been badly damag- ed. The German shells set fire to a store of hay housed under the porches, the splays of which were destroyed (p. 46). In 1914, it suffered fresh injury, both spires being struck by shells. The south tower lost its upper part, the remaining portion being torn open at the base. The other tower was badly indented near its point, while the carvings of the buttresses were injured. The whole fafade was moreover pitted by shell-splinters. The damage caused in 1918 was considerably greater. In some places the stone-work of the portals and towers was entirely destroyed, arid in others indented more or less deeply. The fine and delicate carvings of the towers were also smashed. The north tower suffer- ed most. A breach, jeopardizing its stability, was made almost the whole way up, and the upper part of the spire fell to the ground, like the other spire had done four years before. The interior vaulting which connected the two towers, partially fell in. At the back of the fafade {photo above) which was also struck in several places, there are still traces of the first bay of the old nave of the abbey church, pulled down under the Empire. 48 THE GREAT CLOISTER OF SAINT- JEAN-DES-VIGNE S The Great Cloister of Saint-Jean-des-Vignes. Under the south portal stands a 13th century doorway, with vault- ing and tympanums decorated with finely carved foliage, which led from the abbey church to the great cloister. Of the great 14th century cloister, only the south and west galleries remain. Each has seven^bays with pointed arches resting, on one side, on brackets ornamented with foliage or human figures, and on the other, on piers surrounded by small columns '{photos above and below). Tlie large arches in tierce-point, ornamented with fine mouldings and separated by highly-wrought buttresses, formed an inner arcade composed of two bays surmounted by a rose-window. Traces of it are left in three bays of the south gallery (photo below). The arches formerly contained windows. SOUTHERN GAILERY or THP. CLOtSTKE, NOV. 1918. See Ilinerary, p. 13. 49 The cloister, especially the south end, was often struck by German shells, one piercing the vaulting of a bay, another damaging the carv- ings of the exterior buttresses. The Refectory. The refectory {photo below), erected at the^end of the 13th century, was spoiled after the Revolution by its conversion to military uses. 50 THE GHEAT CLOISTER OF SAINT- JEAN-DES-VIGNES WESTERN GALLERY OF THE CLOISTER AND THE REFECTORY. The refectory, over 130 feet in length, contains two naves with pointed vaulting. The pointed arches rest on fine columns with fo- liate capitals, which are buttressed outside by piers engaged in the stonework Like all monastery refectories, it has a raised and vaulted platform, from which one of the monks read aloud during meals. The refectory, used as a store-house, is divided into two stories by a floor which runs below the capitals of the columns. Outside the refectory, on the side next the cloister, were six large rose-windows, since transformed into small rectangular windows, and on the west front, eight tierce-point windows, now blocked up. At the base of the loft-roof, set at intervals, are dormer-windows, whereof one Renaissance. The roof, damaged in places, was completely destroyed by the bombardments over several of the bays. A large breach, already repaired, was made in the end bay on the east side. One buttress was destroyed and the adjacent part of the framework of one oi! the rose-windows broken (photo above). The great cloister communicated on the east with a small cloister, rebuilt about 1550 in Renaissance style, of which several bays of the south gallery remain standing. Lastly, on this side of the fapade of the church, to the east, is a building, re-erected in the 16th century for the Abbot's residence, but which has been completely disfigured by its adaptation for mili- tary purposes. It is flanked by an octagonal turret containing a stair- case. On leaving the Abbey, lake the Rue Saint-Jean on the right, as jar as the Place Dauphine, in which is the Sous-Prefecture, housed in a mansion built at the beginning of the 19th century. It was struck by numerous shells See Itinerary, p. 13. 51 IHE KUE DES MINIUES. Tafce on the left the Rue de Panleu which runs alongside the build- ings of the old Grand S6minaire (late 17th century), whose 18th century chapel is decorated with beautiful painted and gilded wood- work, greatly damaged. Many shells fell on the Grand S^minaire, causing serious damage. A great part of the roofing was destroyed and in places large [open- ings were torn in the walls. At the north-west end of the park of the Grand S^minaire, excava- tions made in the 19th century, now filled in, uncovered the remains of a Roman amphitheatre. These remains indicated a theatre of very large dimensions, measuring about 470 feet across its greatest width, while the theatre at Orange mesures little over 300 feet. Return to the Cathedral via the Rue de la Buerie, a continuation of the Rue de Panleu. On the right is the Rue des Minimes with its burnt houses (photo above). THE CATEEDEAI QUAKTEK IX 1917. In the background: the Cathedral Tower still standing. 52 FIRST ITINERARY — VISIT TO THE SURROUNDINGS Pl.dela Cathedmie Starting.-point : Place de la Cathedra le. The following- itinerary includes the defensive works of Saint-Cr^- pin-en-Chaye and Le Mail, the first French and German lines from Pasly to Saint-Paul, and the bridge-head on the right bank of the Aisne, in front of the Faubourg Saint-Waast . Starting from .the Cathedral, follow the streets Indicated by continuous lines in the direction of the arrows. The numbers indicate the pages where the corresponding plioto- graphs will_l)e found, Sec Ilineranj, p. 52. 53, Follow the Rue de la Buerie to the Rue Sainl-Christophe, which take to the left as far as the place Saint-Christophe To the north of this square take the Boulevard Pasteur, /ollow its continuation (a narrow road) which leads direct to the Chlbteau de Saint-Crepin-en-Chaye (see outline map, p. 52). Numerous defensive works surrounded this cliateau and the farm belonging to it. These buildings, now entirely in ruins, occupied the site of an abbey founded in the 12th century. CHATB.tU OF ST-CKftPIN- EN-CHATE. January IQIO. On the left: ruui, ui larm and bomb-proof shelter ; on the riqU: Irenoh lending to the Chdleuu seen in the background through the trees. 54 THE MAIL After visiting Saint-Cripin, taI(B the road (V. O. 15), along which ran strong defence-works and which leads to the Promenade du Mail. Follow the promenade towards the town as far as Pont-Neuf. The Promenade du Mail, extending from the H6tel-de-Ville to Vaux- rot, contained trench throughout its entire length which led to the front lines in the northern sector. The Mail, bordered by the river Aisne and planted with century- old trees, dates from the 17th and 18th centuries, and before the War was one of the finest public gardens in France. It was completely spoilt by formidable defence-works. A series of trenches, strengthened by defence-works of every kind and by strong points such as the Brasserie du Mail on the Bank of the Aisne, began in the middl of the Mail. They branched out at the end of the Pro- menade into a great number of outposts, blockhouses and obser- vation posts, from which the naked eye could discern the entrench- ments of the camouflaged German outposts on the right bank of the Aisne. Communication with the Allies' bridge-head on both banks was ensured by foot-bridges, constantly under fire, and temporary ways over the two partially destroyed bridges. THE Mill THE WAK, In the background : the band-stand near which General de Grandmatson was killed. See Itinerary,' p.'_52. 55 THE PONT-NEOF, BLOWN UP FT THE BP.ITISH. Cross the Aisne at the Pont-Neuf. The Pont-Neuf or Pont-du-Mall, over which passes the National Road (N" 2) from Paris to Maubeuge, was built in 1903 of reinforced concrete. On September 1, 1914, the British blew up the middle arch. It was subsequently found possible to contrive a crossing over the brok- en arch, hidden from the view of the enemy by the gaily coloured tents of a travelling show which happened to be in Soissons when war was declared (photo below). THE PONT-NKCT OAMOUFLAOED. 50 THE FRENCH FIRST LINE ThR French First Lin? in the Distillery. . From the Pont-Neuf, take the Avenue de Laon to the Place de Laon, then take the Avenue de Vauxrot on the left to Vauxrol and Pasly. {See .map, p. 53 and Itinerary, p. 52) About half a mile from tlie Place de Laon are the ruins of a large dis- tillery which formed the first French position and was strongly fortifled. On the north of the distillery, beyond "No man's land" with its barbed-wire entanglements, a very important glass-works formed the first German line. Before the war, these glass-works turned out se- See Ilincrari/, p. 52, THE GLASS-WOKKS AT VAUXXOT. In the foreground : A Qerman grave. T'tf Germtin Fir.Bl Line in Ihe Glass-Works. veral millions ol champagne bottles every year. A heap 0/ these bollles is visible in the photo below. Between the buildings of these works, now completely ruined by the incessant bombardments, are countless passages and trenches ol reinforced concrete, observation posts, blockhouses, concrete ma- chine-gun positions and deep dug-outs. TI'E GLASS- WORKS OF VAUXROT. In ttie background : Hill 1 3B. VAUXROT In Ihe I'ackground : Chapel of the. Glass-Works. To the lift o) the Chapei, .. Gernvm Machlne-Gun was posted below a crane. From Vauxrot to Pasly, the lines were separated by the Aisne. On both banks of the river were outposts and advanced trenches with machine-guns {photo below). From Vauxrot, proceed to Pasly {see map, p. 53). From the church at Pasly there is an interesting wallc to the caves seen in the photograph on p. 59 shutting in the horizon to the north of the village. Follow ihe road for nearly half-a-mile, then turn to the right into the road which goes up the side of the hill and skirts the caves. The latter were fortified by the Germans, and afterwards inha- bited by the population of Pasly. See Itinerary, p. 52. A monument to the school-teachers shot by the Germans in 1870, was destroyed by the enemy in 1914 (photo below). SCHOOL- TEAOHEllS' MONUJIENI DESTROYED BY THE GERMANS AT PASLT. [see above) The road leads back to the village. Return via Vauxrol to tlie Place de Laon, then follow on the left the Avenue de Laon to Saint-Paul. The defence-works visited between Pasly, the glass-works and the distillery, ex- tended from there in an almost straight and formi- dable entrenched line to the National Road from Paris to Maubeuge (N. 2). After crossing this road, about half-way between Soissons and Crouy, they encircle the hamlet of St-Paul on the north and east. This forti- fied hamlet formed ORaANIZEB CAVE AT PASLY 60 SAINT-PAUL AXD SAINT-MKDAR D the Saint-Paul salient and protected the faubourg of Saint-Waast. From Saint-Paul the trenches, sloping towards the south, extended in front of the strongly fortified Faubourg of Saint-Medard and rejoin- ed the Aisne at the point where the river forms a great loop above Soissons. It was the eastern sector of the defences, covering alike the Faubourg of Saint-Waast and the bridge-head on the right bank. To go from Sainl-Paul lo Saint- Medard, return to the Place de Laon. Take on the left the Boulevard de Laon, then the Boulevard de Metz which continues it, to the Place d' Alsace-Lorraine. Take the Rue de Bouvines on the left to the Abbey of Saint-IVI§dard. The Faubourg of Saint-M^dard is as old as the town itself. In fact, it existed in the Roman era, and later became one of the favorite resi- dences of the -Merovingian Kings, who owned a large "villa" there. BESTllOYBn BRIDGE OVER THE AISNE. This bridge connected Pasly with Soissons. See Itinerary, p. 52. 61 IN THE ST-PAUl SALIENT About 556, Clotaire I had the greatly revered Bishop of Noyon, Salnt-Medard, buried in this villa, and erected over his grave a basi- lica, round which a monastery was built. After playing an important part in the history of the early Middle- Ages, this monastery attracted 300 000 pilgrims as late as 1530. The buildings were devastated during the many sieges to which Sois- sons was subjected. Rebuilt in the 17th, they were converted in the 19th century into a school lor deaf-mutes and the blind. 01 the ancient buildings, there remains only a crypt, one of the oldest in France and of great archcEological interest. Built in the 9th century and measuring about 80 feet in length, 8 feet in width and 13 feet in height, this crypt (photo below) includes a central gallery with groined vault, off which open chapels. The vaulting rests on very thick walls, in which small niches have been hollowed out as seats for the pilgrims. One of the oldest crypts in France. 62 FAUBOURG SAINT-WAAST lielurn to int Place d' Alsace-Lorraine, take the Rue du Champ-Boail- lani as far as the first street on the right {Rue Messire-P.-Leroy^ which leads to the Church of Saint-Waast. The church ol Saint-Waast, built in the 19th century, consists of a large central pile with aisles on each side of the nave. A graceful belfry, ending in a spire, rises over the portal. The interior of the building is not vaulted, but has a timber-work roof. The arches are PAPBOCEO ST-WAABT. Defence-Worl,s in the Rue deg Qravien, near the Church {see Itinerary). See Itinerary, p. 52. 63 supported by square pillars and the walls ornamented with pictures. The bombardments did great damage. Everywhere the root was broken in and a large part completely destroyed. In the walls are numerous gaps, while the fafade is pitted by shell splinters. The belfry, very badly damaged on the first story, had two of its sides in the upper story completely demolished. The spire fell down in 1918. The interior of the main building suffered less, but the timber-work roof was badly damaged. The Faubourg Saint- Waast led to the first lines of the north-east sector of Soissons, which passed north of the hamlet of Saint-Paul. Because of its situation, it had been put in a complete state of de- fence and was continually bombarded. The railway station, gas-works and most of the factories were destroyed. In places, it is nothing more than a heap of ruins with, here and there, vestiges of the old mili- tary works. Return to the Rue du Champ-Bouillant, follow same as far as the Aisne, crossing the latter at the Pont Saint-Waast. rr , r '4m 'h^^^^mmJ^^^^M 1 THE FONT BT-WAAST OS PONT DES ANOLAIS. In the background, the Pont-Neuf, Sep^. 1914. The pont Saint-Waast, also called the Pont-des-Anglais (since the war) dates from the Middle-Ages (photo above). Of the original structure there remain the arches on the Saint-Waast side (restored) The rest of the bridge consists of an iron platform which the Ger- mans destroyed on September 13, 1914, when they evacuated the town. Rebuilt by the British in 1914, together with a foot-bridge, it ensured communication between the centre of the town and the Faubourg Saint-Waast, in spite of incessant bombardments. Return to the Cathedral by the Rue la Banniere, flue de Montre- vers, and Rue de I'Hdtel-Dieu. CONTENTS Chief Historical Facts 2 First Qerman Occupation, 1914 4 Second Qerman Occupation, 1918 7 Ttie Bombardments 10 A Tliirty-iVionths' Siege 11 VISiT TO THE CiTY The Cathedral 15 31 St-L6ger Church 35 39 The H6tei-de-Viiie 40 41 St-Pierre-au-Parvis Church 42 Maison de i'Arquebuse. 43 St-Jean-des-Vignes Abbey 44 50 VISIT TO THE SURROUNDINGS St-Crepin-en-Chaye Ch§iteau 53 Vauxrot-Pasly 56 - 60 Saint-Paul — Saint- iVIedard 60 61 Faubourg St- Waast 62 63 STREET I)EFES03-W.1RK? IN T.TH F.\UB31IRG ST-WA.\ST. Vin bis-.2.U-> bis-6 1920 IMP. KAPP, PARIS • OFFICE NATIONAL DU TOURISME ' //, Rae Je Surim. PARIS- 8' The ' Office National du Tourisme ' was created by Act of Parliament on Apiil 8tli 1910, and reo{'gan)z;d in 1917. It enjoys civil privileges and financial autonomy. It is directed by an Administrative Council chosen by the Minister of Public Works. Its mission is to seek out every means of developing travel ; to urge, and if necessary to take any measure capable of ameliorating the. conditions of the transport, circulation and sojourn of tourists. It co-ordinates the efforts of touring societies and industries, encourages them in the execution of their pro- grammes and stimulates legislative and administrative ini- tiative with. regard to the development of travel in France. It promotes understanding between the Public Services, the great Transport Compemies, the Syndicats d'Initiative' and the Syndicats Professionnels '. It organises propagemda in foreign countries ; and tends towiurds the creation of Travel Inquiry Offices in France and abroad, with a view to making known the scenery and monuments of Frjmce, as well as the health-giving powers of French mineral waters, spas and bathing places. ALL INQUIRIES WITH REGARD TO TRAVELLING SHOULD BE ADDRESSED TO THE • TOUI^ING-CLUB DE FRANCE ' 65, Avenue de la Grande - Armee, 65 PARIS THE ' TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE' WHAT IS IT ? WHAT ARE ITS USES P » The ' Touring-Club de France ' (founded in 1 890), is at the present time the largest Touring Association in the whole world. Its principal aim is to introduce France — admirable country and one of the loveliest on earth — to French' people themselves and to foreigners. It seeks to develop travel in all its forms :on foot,'' on horseback, on bicycle, in carriage, motor, yacht or railway, and soon in aeroplane. Every member of the Association receives a badge and an identity ticket free of charge, as. also the Revue Men- suelle ' every month. Members have also the bene&t of special prices in a certain number of affiliated hotels ; and this holds good for the purchase of guide-books and Staff (Etat-major) maps, as Well as those of the Ministere de I'lnterieur , the T. C. F., etc. They may insert notices regarding the sale or purchase of travelling requisites, in the ' Reviie ' (1 fr. per line). The ' Comite des Goiitentieux ' is ready to give them counsel with regard to travelling, and 3.000 delegates in all the principsJ towns are able to give them advice and information about thes curiosities of art or of nature in the neighbourhood, as Well as concerning the roads, hotels, motor-agents, garages, etc. . Members are accorded free passage Across the fron^ tier for a bicycle or motor^'bicycle. For a motor-car the Association gives a Triptyque ' ensuring free passage through the ' douane ', etc. ONE TRAVELS BEST IN FRANCE WHEN A MEMBER OF THE ' TOURING-CLUB DE FRANCE MICHELIN TOURING OFFICES MICHELIN TYRE Co., Ltd., LONDON Touring Office ■.: 81. Fulham Road. S. W. MICHELIN & Cie, CLERMONT-FERRAND Touring Office :: 97, Bd. Pereire, PARIS Why ask the Way, when. Michelin Will tell you free of charge ? Drop a line, ring us up, or call at one of our Touring Offices and you will receive a carefully worked .out description of the route to follow.