ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY Cornell University Library SB 125.S61 Propagation by budding with special refe 3 1924 003 302 407 ¥2 XI Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003302407 PROPAGATION BY BODDING with SPECIAL REFERENCE to the CHERRY T* ^ ^ ™ ^ THESIS Submitted for the Decree of B»S»A» BY R» C» S I M P S N , - *** Cornell University. 1905. PART I. INTRODUCTION. Definition, Budding is a sub-division of the art of grafting, and in Prance is more aptly termed bud-grafting. It has been defined by Professor Bailey as "the operation of applying a single bud, bearing little or no wood, to the surface of the growing wood of the stock," Affinity of Species, The stock is a growing tree or shrub, and trust be closely related, botanically, to the bud applied. Just how close this relation must be differs with different plants, 7*e can say, how ever, that plants to be united must at least be of the sane bo- tanic family. As a rule, the closer this relation, the greater is the likelihood of obtaining a union. Varieties of the same speciss will almost always unite readily; and different species of the same genus will also usually form a good union, but their affinity can by no means be depended upon. One species may take well on another, yet the latter when used for budding purposes may not unite on the former. This is admirably illustrated by the Mahaleb cherry. All the species of cherry unite with Prunns Mahaleb, but the latter will not succeed on any of them. Differ- 1 ^Sss ^altet'e "L'Apt ie 'Jref f er, " p.?. ent genera sometimes unite but it is not a common occurence. It is evident, therefore, that no laws governing affinity between species are known. Budding vs. Grafting, One cannot always say just what plants should be grafted and what ones budded, since many can be propagated by both opera- tions. Generally, however, a plant can be multiplied more suc- cessfully by one method than by the other. Sappy plants, especial- ly if their bark is thin, usually succeed better when grafted, Kost fruit trees— practically all stone fruits— are propagated by budding. The apple, however, grows equally well when grafted, and in the West at least, is generally so multiplied. The ques- tion has often been raised as to whether a grafted apple tree is as good as a budded one. Despite many statements to the contrary, experience has shown that when the operation is properly done, one method is as efficient as the other. It is usually more economical to the nurseryman however, to grow grafted trees, since the graft- ing can be done in the winter when his men are not so busy. In top-working, until recently, grafting has been the prevailing prac- tice, but at present tbp-budding is recommended if the tree is not too large, Plate I shows a young orchard tree that was top-budded the previous summer. =LATE I. Y0UN3 ORCHA,-^D TRES /.HI OH HAS BEEN TOP 3UDDED; THE 8U0S ARE JUST START I V3 TO GROW. -e^ PLATE f I . Same as plate I, except one sranoh. of the tree WAS left ^OH °, M^c; to alight ON, THUS PROTECTING THE TENDEf^ YOUNG SHOOTS FROM THE POSSIBILITY OF BEING BROKEN DOWN. Season for Budding, Budding may be practiced to a very limited extent in the ■ spring, but is usually done in the late summer and early fall, the season usually extending from the latter part of July to Sep*^ tember. During this period the stocks attain the proper size, and mature buds can be procured, For the best results the stocks should be growing nicely, but not too rapidly. If they are not growing fast enough, the bark will not lift readily, and, on the other hand, if they are making too much growth and the sap is very plentiful, the bud is likely to be "strangled," If the sap wets the outer bark around the cut to any extent when an incision is made, one had better wait until growth is checked somewhat. Plant Union, It is best to unite plants of mutual vigor, hardiness, and of like condition of sap. If one is a more vigorous grower than the other, it should be the bud, as such a relation tends to check the growth of the trhe and promotes fruit production. Familiar proofs of this statement are the pear budded on quince roots, and the cherry on Mahaleb, When the sap of the two plants is not in the same condition it is better to have the stock in a more advanc- ed stage. When all the conditions are favorable, however, the suc- cess or failure of the operation depends to a very great extent on the skill of the operator. To become a skillful budder requires many lon$ days of practise and experience* Fruit Stocks, Most stocks are obtained from seed, though some are grown by layering, and some by cuttings. Those coming from seed are usually^ not large enough to work until the second year. The first season they are planted in seed beds, and in the spring of the next year are transplanted in nursery rows. This work is done with a dibble or a spade, the latter implement usually being preferable, though more costly. Before planting, the roots (and tops of some plants) should be trimmed and well puddled. The soil trust then be securely packed around the roots of each. Many thousands of stocks die annually because they are loosely planted. The nursery rows average about three and a half feet apart, and the plants in the rows vary from one to twenty inches. Eight inches is the most common distance, however, but the kind of stock and the quality of soil make different spaces necessary. Peach stocks on good soil may be almost touching each other and yet attain a normal growth. Moreover, since they also ^row exceptionally rapid, the seed may be sown in the nursery row in the fall, and the stocks budded the following summer. Many of our stocks, as the Mahaleb and Mazzard cherries, Myrobalan plum, and pear seedlings, are chiefly imported from Prance and Germany. Mahaleb are now being grown in Kansas to some extent, but they are not so satisfactory as the French grown. They are usually higher -#>-' ^/; "'^t •^. , .:^' PLATE Mi. Young peagh seedlings just coming up, priced, larger than necessary, low and thickly branched, and with thicker; tougher, and tighter bark. The low branches are in the way of the budder, and the thick, tough bark makes the insertion of the bud more difficult. Cherry Stocks, For cherry stocks Nurserymen have a largerchoice than for most other trees* The Mahaleb (Prunus Mahaleb), Mazzard (Prunus Avium) and the Sour Cherry (Prunus Cerasus) or ordinary Morellos may be used. In the Northeast the Bird Cherry (Prunus Pennsylvanica), and in the Northwest the Sand Cherries (Prunus Pumila and Prunus Besseyi) are also used to a very limited extent. The Mazzard is perhaps the best stock — at least from the orchardists' standpoint. It is a free grower, producing a single upright stem, and is especially well adapt" ed to the vigorous sweet cherries. As a matter of fact, however, the Mazzard is little used by nurserymen, since it is very subject to leaf blight and to serious attacks of black aphis, causing arrest of growth, and the setting of the bark befoee the buddipg season has well begun, I have heard some nurserymen say thtit they would not plant- Mazzard stocks if they were given to them. The Uahaleb is the nurseryman's favorite, and upon it most cherries are worked. It is not such a free grower as the Mazzard, but it answers the purpose very well. It grows well, admits of a long budding season, peels easily, unites readily, and is little troubled by leaf blight PLATE IV. Block of 'vIahaleb stocks, PLATE V. Vie-', showing a lO^o stand of chesty ON MORELLO STOGKS, or aphis. The Mahaleb tends to dwarf the tree to a slight extent, but this tendency promotes greater fruit oroduction. The other stocks mentioned are little used, most of them either peeling poorly, suckering badly, or forming a poor and uncertain anion. Growth of Stocks. The stocks should be kept growing as rapidly as possible by I frequent cultivations-- once every ten or twelve days is a good average, If the soil is comparatively clear of weeds, and proper cultivation is given, little hand hoeing will be necessary. The spraying also should not be neglected. In fact, I believe, the spraying of cherry and pear stocks at least, is .just as important as the spraying of / the budded trees. Usually Bordeaux mixture is all that it is neces- sary to use, but occasionally some soap solution or tobacco water may have to be applied in spots, if aphis makes an appearance. It is seldom, however, that this pest attacks Mahaleb stocks. Selecting and Preparing the Buds. In selecting the "bud sticks" or branches from which the buds are to be cut, great care must be exercised. Only shoots of the present season's growth are used, and these ought to be of well matured wood. They should also be healthy, of good quality, and preferably taken from a thrifty tree of well known value. In the nursery row the upper branches of the trees usually furnish much ■ * -a !>^ PLATE VI . Disc cultivator — especially well adapted for the first cultivation of buds in fteeoy ground; in stony soil however, IT is useless. PLATE VM . A 3000 TYPE OF CULTIVATOR FOR NURSERY WORK, PLATE '/Ml. A jOod type of gultivator for high trees. better mood for budding purposes than the lower ones. As soon as the sticks are out from the tree, the leaves must be cut off, leav-\ ini only about one-fourth of an inch of the petiole to serve as a handle to the bud. It is very important that the leaves be cut off immediately, as otherwise much moisture is lost from the stick. Since the tips of the sticks are usually too succulent to be used, \ they are also cut off at this time. When a few hundred sticks are cut and trimnaed, they are dampened and wrapped in a wet cloth, and left in some cool, shady place until ready to be used in thji bud patch. This work should be done by some one directly interested in the welfare of the firm, since it requires much good judgement, and since all the different varieties of each kind must be kept separated. The sticks may be tjrimmed, however, by any careful boy. Fresh Buds Desirable. For the best success buds should not be used which are over I twenty four hours old, though often fair stands are obtained when (^ they have been cut several days or even a week. As a rule; however, the fresher the buds, the better will be the stand. One should never buy buds away from home unle;js it §s absolutely necessary, since they are never so fresh, are often bruised in shipment, and occasionally not well packed. They can be sent in comparative safety, however, for reasonabLc distances when caslsd-iD^a-IQCdSD^!iCX» Often fifty per cent of buds not boxed are bruised and ruined in transits 0. ^ PLATc iX. 3UD STICKS WITH LEAVES STILL ON;*'a)sTIGK FROM TWO-YEAR-OLD TREE; (a)sTIGK FROM ONE-YEAR-OLD TREE. Oy °LATr X. 3uD STICKS trimmed; (a)stiok from two- year-old trees; (b)same, from WHICH LEAVES HAD FALLEN; (c)sTICK FROM ONE- YEAR-OLD TREE. Budder's Equipment, The budder's equipment consists of a budding knife, a stone and a strap for sharpening it, a "sack" or piece of cloth to wrap his bud sticks in, and usually some sort of pad or box to sit upon. The knife blade should be of the best steel, thin, narrow, and curved baekcard at the point. The end of the handle usually holds a spatula made of bone or itoory. which is supposed to be used for raising the bark, but which is seldom done, as the point of the knife serves the purpose better. Several styles of knives are shown in plate XT, The knife should be kept very sharp— sharp enough to shave-- and, since it is fitted only fcr delicate work, should be used for nothing else. The bud sticks are wrapped up in the sack — a piece of old carpet makes an excellent one — so that only the butts are visible, and are then slung on the back of the budder. Thus, as one stick at a time is being used, the remainder are kept well pro- tected from evaporation, A budder may carry enough buds to last him two hours or even longer if the weather is cool or cloudy. Preparing the Stocks, The cultivation should always have made a ridge of at least two inches along the row, and before any buds are inserted this dirt must be cleaned away from the base of the stocks until the ground is level. The side of the tree which is to receive the bud should also be cleaned with some sort of a brush, but in so doing one must PLATS XI . OlFFEREN'T TYPES OF BUDDING KNIVES, ;^AfJGING \H P?< I GE FROM TO $1.00, PLATE XII. 8UDDER. READY FOR WORK, be careful not to bruise the tender bark. If the stocks are not thoroudhly cleaned, dirt may fall into the cut and prevent the union of the bud. Stocks always peel better where the damp earth has been removed. One man can clean away for two or three budders, and also have time enough to carry water for the rest of the work- men. Shield Budding. Now comes, the all important question, "How is the operation performed?" To start with we may say thfet there are four or five methods of budding, but most of these are modifications 5W»<^ irjojifi. ■ efttit>n.? of one main type, or are unimportant and little used. I shall describe only the method commonly used by nurserymen, which is known as shield budding. Shield budding, though often modified in minor details, con- i sists of removing the dormant bud from the sti^k and inserting it I beneath the bark of the stock. The budder draws out a stick from his sack with his right hand, grasps it with his left, the butt of the stick pointing away from him, and assumes the position shown in plate XIII. He is now ready to cut the bud. The knife blade is inserted from one fourth to one half an inch above the bud as far as the wood, then carried along just between the bark and the wood " until -it has passed under the bud and from one half to three fourth^ of an inch beyond. It is then easily removed from the stick by a PLATE XIII. l/UTTING THE BUD, 10 slight up-turning of the blade. To cut an ideal bud the knife should go only as far as the alburnum, severing all the bark, but removing none of the wood. The bud should not be cut by merely pulling the knife straight back, but by a sliding ffioveaaent of the blade. One should start the cut near the heel of the knife blade (see plate XIII), and end it near the point. With many plants, however, it is often very difficult to re.move the bud without leav- ing a bit of wood .just under the bud. This is usually so small, though, that its presence is immaterial, bat occasionally on some sorts, it is necessary to make a slight turning moveiEent of the knife over the hump just under the bud. Buds cut a very little bit thicker or thiner than described generally live very wellv yet their chances must be somewhat lessened. The Matrix. The opening in the stock is made by two outs, one horizontal and the other vertical, at right angles to each other in the shSpe t of the letter T. These cuts should extend only through the bark, yet if they go a little further no harm is done. Either one may be made first, but unless the bark slips very freely, it is best to start with the transverse cut. This is done with the point of the knife with one rocking motion. The bud can be inserted more readily if the cut slopes downward through the bark toward the wood. The vertical cut is now made—also with the point of the knife— (L ir PLATE XI v. 3)bud entering matrix; (a)3ud inserted. 11 by starting from one to one and a half inches below the other incision, and drawing bhe blade up until the two meet. Then the bark is raised by a deft twist of the knife to the left and right, and the point of the bud inserted with the left hand into the open- ing, (plate XIV,) The leaf-stein is now grasped with the tip of the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, and pushed home. The thumb- nail plays an important part in this operation and should be compara- tively long and stout. If the leaf-stem has fallen off the bud may be pushed in by the point of the knife, the pressure being applied at the leaf scar. This requires considerable care, however, since the knife point may injure the bud, and should not be practiced unless buds are scarce. When the bud is put in care should be taken thfet no dirt or other foreign material falls into the cut. If the stocks do not peel well it is often necessary to open the bark for the entire length of the cut. Moreover, when the bark is very tight, it is sometimes necessary to raise the bark by means of a quill, before the bud can be inserted. Such conditions, however, greatly reduce the chances of success, and need not be taken into account when s stocks are well tended and budded at the proper time. Inverted Budding. Occasionally when the sap in cherry stocks is flowing very freely, the bud is inserted from below upward, thus lessening the chances of smothering the bud. In this case the transverse cut is I ! \ a 12 made at the bottom, and the wound takes the shape of an inverted T. Of course, only the manner of insertion is reversed, the bud itself remaining in an upright position. In this method the bud-* must be cut from the opposite direction to that dsscribed above, since the point of the bud must be on the other end. This style of budding is sometimes used to a considerable extent on maple and orange trees, which often have a superabundance of sap. This is also the prevailing method used by nurserymen at Dansville, New York, Speed an Important Item, In nurseries, the speed of a budder is an important considaTa- tion, but by no means deserves the prominence sometimes given it. Quality of work should always come first; speed second. The mistake usually made by the beginner is to go too fast. He wants to become a swift budder, and slights his work in consequence. This is disas>- trous to the nurseryman, as the work must then be gone over again, Budders should first learn exactly how the work is done, and let the speed come later. An experiencedfeudder, when conditions are favorable, can bud 2,000 trees in a day. Many can do more than this, some putting in 3,000 or 4,000, and occasionally as high as 5,000 in one day. At the last meeting of the Nurseryman's Association (1904) there was a man present who claimed to have budded 8-, 000 stocks in one dayl There are more worknien, however, who average less than 13 2,000 than there are that average above that figure* Tying the Bud. As soon as the bud has bicen inserted it must be tied. Several different kinds of ligatures are in use. The ideal tying material should be strong, pliable, elastic, cheap, easy to handel, and un- affected by varying moisture conditions. Woolen thread or yarn has many of these qualities, but is hardly strong enough, and, moreover, is too expensive for extended use, Bass-bark and raffia are also | much used, the latter to a greater extent than the former. When / ? /» raffia was first introduced it was very cheap, but at present is more expensive, yet in the United States it is used more than any other tying material. Its chief defects are its habit of rolling when it becomes dry, and its susceptibility to hygrometric influences. The first difficulty can be over come by wetting and beating it out before using, though this takes some time and trouble. The second and principal defect, however, cannot be remedied. Carpet warp ia now used to a considerable extent by nurserymen, and, in my opinion, is the best all around ligature yet found. It is strong, pliable, easy to handle, requires no pretJaration, only slightly more costly than raffia, and is not affectid by moisture. Its only defect is its inelasticity, which, however, is not absolutely necessary, since the bandage can be removed after the bud has set and before the stock becomes seriously injured. (X ^ PLATE XV. The 3U0 tied; (a)with carpet warp, ( B ) '/,' I T H RAFFIA. 14 The tying is usually done by a boy who follows closely behind the buider* It is important that he does not lag behind, since if much time is lost between the insertion of the bud and the applica- tion of |he string, it may die from the injurious effects of the atmosphere. The tier generally sits flat on the ground while at work, and often keeps one leg across the row. The bandage is wrapped around the tree in a spiral manner, commencing a little below the bottom of the cut as shown in plate XV. One enfl is secured by pas- sing the first course over it, and the other by a simple loop at, or a little above the top of the wound. Each wrap of the string should be drawn tight enough so that none are moved by passing the finger over them. On the other hand, however, they should not be drawn tight enough to bruise or cut the bark. Usually the chief diffi- culty with a tier is to have him wind tight enough, since by con- tinual wrapping, his fingers often become tender. It is sometimes necessary for one or more fingers to be protected by some material such as a pieee of thin leather, until they become toughened to the work. If carpet warp is used for the tying material, at least three or four wraps should be made below the bud and four or five above, leaving about one eight of an inch between courses. Care should be exercised that the string be wound as straight as possible around the tree, as otherwise it may work loose. The wraps just above and just below the bud should be as close to the bud as 15 possible without touching it. Under no ciroumstances should the string be allowed to touch or tie down the bud. When raffia is used fewer wraps are necessary since this bandage is much wider than the carpet warp. One good tier can usually keep up with a budder, but it is sometimes necessary to put two after a very fast operator. In the arid and semi-arid regions of the West, carpet warp cannot be used to advantage, since two much of the wound is left exposed to the dry atmosphere. In such places bass-bark or raffia is imperative, but for the humid regions of the East and Middle West carpet warp is recommended. String-cutting. About two we^eks after bu'dding the bandage must be cut or hhe t>y the iOTitir\u.^el jYpWthpf ff,^ stocM.. stock will become girdle.^ This done by a siQgle stroke of a knife across the stri)5gs on the side opposite the bud. The thumb or finger is then rubbed across the severed strings which drop to the ground. The string cutter to accomplish as much work as possible, should straddle the row, bend over to perform the operation, and walk backwards down the row. By going backEard the stocks are bent over by the body in the proper position to cut, and consider- able time is thereby saved. A good knife is not so essential for this work, but the better it holds edge, the easier and faster the work can be done. Almost any shaped knife blade will suffice, but a stiff bladed budding knife answers especially well. In cutting off the bandages it is very essential that ail the courses of string be cut, as otherwise the tree will be girdled, and the top may be blown off by the wind. Care must also be exercised that no stocks are missed. It is very essential that the string be cut at the proper time, for if one waits too long it becomes imbedded in tihei bark of the stock and much time is lost in picking it out. More- over, the stock is weakened and its growth checked by the conse- ' qaent girdling. Rebudding. After the strings have been cut, we can go over the stocks and rebud what have failed, and also those that were too small at the first budding. If a good stand is obtained at first and few small trees are left, many nurserymen do not go over the stocks the second time. This is especially true of the cheaper class of trees, such as the peach and the apple. Among the higher priced stocks, however, such as the cherry, pear, and plum, even if an excellent stand has been secured, it will always pay to rebud, if the ©orkmen are not needed worse somekhere else. It is often difficult to distinguish a live bud from a dead one, until one has had consiierable experience in examining them. One who has done considerable rebudding, however, can generally tell a dead bud at a glance. If a doubtful bud is not discolored, withered, or partly separated from the ftock, it may be necessary to "feel" it. 17 The finger is pressed lightly against the bud, and if it is slightly elastic or springy it is generally alive; if it is stiff and hard it is usually dead. If the first budding has resulted in a poor stand, the rebudding is done in the same manner as the first opera- tion, i,e,, the budder and tier pass each tree as usual and put in a bud wherever one is needed. If the greater per cent of the buds have lived, the budder (and the tier also if he can be trusted) first goes along the row and marks the stocks which have failed, add then passes rapidly back and buds those which are marked. In this manner much time is saved, especially if the tier is also competent to examine the buds. The new bud is usually placed just above or .jufet below the dead one, the latter position being preferred if there is room ehougn, since the dead bud will then be out away with the top of the stock. If carpet warp has been ueed for tying, it sometimes pays to have a boy go ahead of the budder and remove the string, since the upper strands often remain loosely hanging on the bud. Occasion- ally, when there has been a YeCX poor stand, and it does not pay to examine whfet are alive, each tree is rebudded on the other side. Pruning the Stocks, Early next spring, before growth starts, the stocks must be cut off above the bud. Just how this should be done is a question; of considerable importance, yet one that has not received sufficient attention. In some parts of New York, I understand, it is customary yr'\ PLATE XVI. The stub on this tree was left entirely too long when the stock was cut. SL PLATE XVI I . Stocks gut off-; CiHwr usual aay (b)the better way. to make two cuttings—the first removing about half of the top of the stock anS the second taking the remainder. In most places, however, only one cutting is necessary, and the sooner this is made after spring begins to open, the better. Most nurserymen cut off the stocks nearly parallel with the ground, at, or a little above the top shield of the bud. (plate XVIIa) r If the tops are cut off higher than this an unsightly stub is left (plate XVI). When they are cut square off, even at the top of the shield as shown in plate XVII a, several years growth is required / for the wound to be completely healed over. If they are cut off ait i the same place with a sloping cut they heal more rapidly. Pe* nurserymen, however, ever cut into the shield itself, yet, I am confident, that here is the proper place. Remove the stocks with' ^ a slanting cut as close to the bud as possible (plate XVII b) withoufc touching it. This, of course, will remove most of the top shield. \ I have .seen trees cut off in this manner heal over completely during the first seasons growth! And I have seen few, indeed, which were not healed the following season. Moreover, stocks so cut off will form a smaller crook at the bud, and therefore make a'straight^ and more shapely tree, (plates XVIII, XIX.) Yet the questions are at once raised, "Will not buds cut so close 'dry out' or be much more easily blown down by wind?" These objections certainly seem reasonable, yet, in Indiana at least, ■t/i^TT? to be we\\ ^ovuVi4.e<(- experience does not prove. it t a be cO '. Prom what observations I 0. ^LATE XVI I I . (a, c)T.rees which were cut off as they should be; (b)tree which was not cut off close enough TO the bud. Mote the difference .je- T W £ E N THE CROOKS OF ( A , C ) AND THAT OF ( B ) . .^LATF XIX. Same trees as shown im plate X'l/lll, taken from the OTHER SIDE, SHOWING THE WOUNDS OF (a, ) AL- MOST HEALED OVER, AND THAT OF (b) NOT YET HEALFD AT ALL, THESE TREES ARE JUST STARTING ON THEtR SECOND YEARS GROWTH. PLATE XX. Dormant buds, 19 have made, I have never been able to see that it made any difference at all. I am sure the bads do not dry out, because the stands are no better when out off higher up* Moreover, I have seen blocks of hundreds of thousands of trees cut off in this manner, with only a few scattering ones blown down during the entire eeason. In fact, I have never seen «any blown down in any season, although we occasion- ally have some very respectable wind storms. Therefore I feel con- fident in recommending that stocks be headed by a slanting cvit made as close to the bud as possible* Training the Buds« Soon after the buds have started to grow they must be "suckered" i.e. all sprouts growing from the stocks must be rubbed off. This should be done at the proper time, or they will soon become so large that a knife will be necessary to remove them, (Plate XXI,) Cherry trees rarely need to be suckered more than once, but some stocks, as the peach, must be gone over at least twice. ; In suckering one must be very careful not to rub off the bud itself.y One should never wear gloves at this work, since their presence interferes with the work and increases the chances of knocking out buds. Growth of Buds. All the food gathered Uy the roots of the stock is now thrown into the single bud, which makes a rapid growth, and soon assumes the appearance of a tree. Peach buds, especially, grow very fast, ?=LATE XXI . Sucker iNG plum, \'ote the m umber and height of THE SUGKERS, THIS WORK SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE A WEEK OR TWO EARLIER. <4-.'t(?■;l►"«- r - 93.3^ alive The advantage of cutting off or pinching back the tips, however, is supposed to be obtained in very hot weather when growth is very rapid, and since no such weather occured in this season we were not surprised at the outeame. In fact the summer was so cool that the stocks grew none too fast, and therefore the cutting off of the tips may even have been detrimental as indicated by the percentages, V» Which Buds Are Best? Which buds on the stocks are the best? Are the small buds at the butt of the stick as good as the larger, plumper ones along fiv^J 35 the iniiile? Are the softer buds toward the tip of the stick equally « good? Moreover, are buds which have no leaf stems as good as those so favored? It is the general belief that buds along the middle of the stick are the best for budding purposes, and a considerable portion of each end~~especially the tip end— is often cut off. But do «e know this to be the case? Has it been established experimentally? In the case of an ear of corn it has been proved that the small grains at each end are just as good and will produce just as large and healthy stalks as the more perfect grains along the middle of the ear. They simply have a less amount of food stored up to start the young seed- ling, but when once started it is at no disadvantage. If the same conditions hi)ld true in the case of the bud stick, even the obj'eotion of a small food supply which may lessen the young plant's chances in a dry season, will be removed, since if the bud once unites, plenty of food is available, For this experiment I chose 50 trees on the end of Row 5. Buds were selected as follows: 1, Small buds at the butt of the stick (Plate 36 a). There are usually one or two and occasionally three of these undersized buds on a stick, 2. Buds taken from the tip of the stick— about two farther toward the end than one usually uses. These are about the same size as those toward the middle of the stick, but are usually softer a I PLATE XXXVI . (a)S'mall bud from butt of stick; (b)normal bud from middle of stick, 36 and not so well matured, 3. Buds normal in every respeot from the middle of the stick C:Plate 36 b) 4« Buds without leaf -stems, fhese were inserted carefully with the point of the knife, and injured as little as possible. 5. Check. Results. Butts Tips Middle No leaf stems Check t stand lUU 100 90 100 100 All the buds of this experiment lived exceedingly well, and none of them showed anything unusual, except those taken from the butts and tips of the sticks. Five of the ten buds taken from the butts of sticks were just starting, and the other five showed a short and somewhat stunted growth. (Plat^ XXXVII.) Sine of those taken from the tips of sticks (the other one was broken off by the cultivator) were growing nicely, and would average almost twice as high as those taken from the butts (Plate XXXVIII.) This seems to indicate thaf the small undersized buds near the butt of the stick, although they unite well, ought not to be used, and that those to- ward the tip, even farther out than one usually goes, are as good as any buds on the stick — at least so far as growth goes. VI. Northern or Southern Exposure? Will a bud inserted on the north side of a tree live better PLATE XXXVI I . Stand resulting from small buds taken from 3utt end of stick. PLATE XXXVI I ! . Stand resulting from buds taken from t i p end of st i ck. /mtiv O 37 than one on the south side? Our text books say yes. When on the south si3e the bud is exposed to the direct rays of the sun, while on the opposite side it is shaded by the body of the tree, I have seen ^ood stands on both sides, but onoe I noticed a very poor stand of buds on the south side which had been put in during very hot weather. Those inserted on the north side during the same period were also living poorly yet were better than the others. This would seem to indicate that in cool or even njoderafeely warm weather, itsdoes not make any material difference, but in hot sunny weather buds should be put on the north side. I intended to do this experiment during a hot spell and get some definite knowledge on the subject. Unluckily, however, the hot spell did not arrive, and I was forced to go ahead and do the work on September 17, SO** was the maximum temperature that day. Twenty-five stocks were budded on the north side and an equal number on the south side. Results, Northern exposure Southern exfjosure % stand 68 68 As was expected, on account of the cool weather and lateness of the season, no difference occured in the percentage of buds inserted on the north and south sides of the stocks. ii^^ (/Ws\^6 "J-a 38 VII, One or Two-Yeari-Old Sticks? Is it best to UEe bud-sticks from two-year-old nursery trees, or are those taken from yearling trees equally §ood? This question, of course, applies only eoraparatively late in the season, since the buds of the one-year-old trees, if they have been properly cared for, are usually not sufficiently matured until the latter half of August, Row 2 was used for this experiment. On August 27, 100 buds taken from two-year-old trees were put in, and an equal number of buds taken from one-year-old trees. This was repeated on September 3 with 25 buds each. Result s. Two- •year bi ids One* -year buds % alive first budding 81 74 % alive second budding 96 92 Average 33.3 83 This experiment shows that it is best to use buds taken from tweyear old trees, VIII, Tying, What is the best tying matjerial? For this trial I used only the two materials which are chiefly employed— raff ia and carpet warp, The former is much more commonly used than the latter. Missing Page 39 Row 3 was used for this experiment, 25 trees were tied with dry raffia, 25 with raffia that had been »et and then beaten out, and 25 with carpet warp. This was repeated at three different dates, Results % stand from % stand from % stand from dry raffia carpet warp wet raffia 1st budding 92 83 38 8nd " B8 84 92 3rd " 38 92 92 Average 89.,33 33 90.66 These percentages are too close to show any difference due to tyin^ material* They mi^ht have been even closer had not one stock, which was tied with carpet warp, died before spring. The bud in this tree had united alright but, of course, had to be counted as dead, Prom this exoeriment it would seem that the two tying materials used are equally good, Nevertheless, I have heard several nurserymen, who have changed from raffia to carpet warp, say that they get better results with the latter. IX» Mounding. Should buds be protected during the winter by mounding or throwing up dirt to them; and, if so, should they be partly or entirely covered? Another block of five rows was selected for this experiment. 40 The earth around 1, S, and 3, was not disturbed. The soil around row 4 was thrown hi^h up, entirely covering the buds. That around row 5 was thrown up to a considerable extent—about the height of the buds, covering some and leaving some uncovered, yet with the earth close around them* ^ Results, The records of this experiment were lost, yet it could be seen that the row which had been mounded up highest, had a slightly better stand of buds than any of the others, Sumiiary, 1, No connection was found to exist between the temperature and the stand of buds secured for the season of 1904, 2, Rain appeared to have an injurious effect on the stand of buds inserted the same day, 3, Buds cut without any wood (ideal) lived better than those containing a little wood, 4, Buds from the smaller half of the stick lived slightly better than those from the butt half, g, When other conditions are favorable, buis cut too thin or too thick may live as well as those properly removed. 6. Buis removed with a sliding cut lived better and made a more vigorous growth than those cut straight, 7, The length of the point of the bud did not affect the stand 41 8, Buds which had the top part of the shield removed showed only a 30?^ stand. 9« Shucked buds lived well, but not so good as those removed in the ordinary way« 10. Nothing was learned from the cultivation experiment* 11* No results were obtained from the clipping of the tops of the stocks, 1S« The small buds taken from the butt of the stick lived as well as any others, but the Growth made by them was poor, 13, Buds taken from the tip of the stick not only lived as well as any others, but made an especially fine growth. 14, Buds which had no leaf-stems showed no difference from the ordinary budding, 15, Buds set on the south side of the stock lived as well as those with a northern exposure, 16, Buds from two-year-old trees lived better than those from yearlings, 17, Practically no difference was found between the efficiency of raffia and carpet warp as tying material* Missing Page