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ALiJi..; I 1^ MANN 
 
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 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003620618 
 
A TREATISE 
 
 ORIGIN, NATURE, AND VARIETIES 
 
 WIN E: 
 
 A COMPLETE MANUAL OF VITICULTURE AND CENOLOGY. 
 J. L. W. THUDICHUM, M.D. 
 
 ANU 
 
 AUGUST pUPRE, Ph.D., 
 
 r.KCTlfRKR ON CHRMISTRV AT WESTMINSTER HOSPn'AI.. 
 
 f mtboit anb Jpxfa fori; : 
 MACMILLAN AND CO. 
 
TP 
 
 TS3 
 
 y. fh~s 
 
 LONDON ■- 
 
 K. CLAY, SONS, AND TAYLOR, PRINTERS, 
 
 BREAD STREET HILL. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In presenting this treatise to the public, the Authors have 
 hardly any statement to make which is. not contained or 
 implied in the work itself. Nevertheless, as the title may fail 
 in conveying fully the scope and intensity of their labours, 
 they beg leave to supplement it by a short preliminary 
 statement of the principles by which they have been guided. 
 In the first place, the Authors determined to produce a 
 strictly scientific work, based as far as possible upon their 
 personal observations. Such have therefore Taeen made in 
 the vineyards, cellars, and repositories of many countries, 
 in the respective chemical laboratories of the Authors, in 
 public and private gardens, in open nature, and in mines 
 underground. Wherever possible, they availed themselves 
 of the writings of previous authors for the purpose of 
 guiding or supplementing their observations, and with that 
 object they have consulted and used nearly two hundred 
 out of the six hundred works which compose the world's 
 oenological literature. 
 
 The Authors next endeavoured to give due proportions to 
 each of the elements of their treatise, so as to make it useful 
 to the greatest possible number of readers. The planters 
 of Australia or America will therefore find in it a concise 
 
viii PREFACE. 
 
 exposition of the principles of viticulture and vinification, by 
 the aid of which they may attain the best products of which 
 their climate Tnay admit ; but they will also have before them 
 faithful pictures of the viticulture of the principal wine districts 
 of the world, which they may use as patterns for imitation, 
 if disinclined to rely upon general principles. The wine 
 merchants of Great Britain and of America will find accurate 
 descriptions of the objects of their trade, together with such 
 topographical and statistical information as may aid them 
 materially in enlarging the field, or the certainty, or the 
 profits of their operations ; and rendering still more important 
 services to the public for which they have hitherto provided, 
 or hope in future to provide. All persons who are fond of 
 wine as an article of diet and a means of enjoyment, will be 
 able to find in this treatise information about the origin and 
 varieties of wine, which will enable them to regulate their 
 wants with due reference to their liking and their means. 
 They will find that the Authors have had amongst their 
 aims the accomplishment of one of the most benevolent 
 intentions of the Legislature ; namely, to make accessible to 
 the people at large, the wines of all countries which can be 
 used as beverages, and which by the voice of science and the 
 practice of entire nations are declared preferable by far to 
 distilled spirit or to wines fortified by such. While thus 
 assuming a distinct position with regard to a well-understood 
 social question, the Authors have abstained from a zealous 
 exaggeration, and have, on the contrary, endeavoured to pre- 
 serve that judicial calmness which distinguishes the natural 
 historian. The same moderation they have applied to prac- 
 tices such as the plastering of must and wine, for which, after 
 the most searching investigation, they have been unable to 
 
PREFACE. ix 
 
 find any logical grounds ; nay, for which those who are most 
 addicted to them cannot adduce a single reason or pretext. 
 An improved vinification by th^ guidance of science will of 
 itself cause such practices to fall into desuetude, even if their 
 results were not prejudicial to the quality of the products or 
 the health of the consumers. 
 
 The Authors have endeavoured to impress strongly upon 
 the minds of their readers that there is an indissoluble connec- 
 tion between the grape and the wine which it yields. The 
 genius of wine is in the grape ; every kind of vine gives a 
 distinct character to its product. For this reason the most 
 renowned wines are all made from distinct varieties of 
 grapes, which are never mixed with indifferent or hetero- 
 geneous varieties. The greater the number of varieties of 
 grapes which participate in the production of a certain wine, 
 the less character possesses the product. All wines should, 
 therefore, be described in such a manner that the grapes 
 from which they are made constitute the first term of the de- 
 scription. Wine from Palomino grown at Xeres differs greatly 
 from wine made from the Mantico castellano grown in the same 
 district. How, then, can such wines be adequately described 
 by the expression " Sherry " .' Wine from Carbenet Sauvi- 
 gnon differs greatly from the wine produced by the Verdot and 
 Malbec. Is it not unreasonable to confound these products 
 under the term " Claret " 1 The wines of Riessling and of 
 Traminer are distinct products of the Rhiile country. Is it 
 not time to abandon or amend the designation of " Hock," so 
 as to maintain the emphatic originality of each variety .' The 
 adoption of this principle will go far to put an end to adul- 
 teration and imitation. The more the product of a distinct 
 variety of vine becomes obscured by mixing, .sweetening, or 
 
X PRE If ACE. 
 
 brandy, the easier it can be imitated. But the thoroughly 
 fermented, unsugared, and unbrandied wines of Palomino, 
 Semillon, RiessHng, Forniint, of the Pineau, Bastardo, Verdot, 
 Carmenet, Grenache and Tinto, cannot be imitated by the 
 most expert wine-cooks. Take away their brandy, their 
 sugar, caramel, elder, and logwood, and their imposture is at 
 an end. 
 
 It is thus not difficult to see in what direction the taste of 
 the educated or informed part of the people will in the future 
 be developed. The days of the heavily-brandied wines are 
 numbered, since it is proved that the wines of Xeres and 
 Oporto can be brought into a merchantable condition with- 
 out extraneous spirit. As the habits of the people get 
 softened, so they decrease both the quantity and strength of 
 the alcoholic liquids which they consume, and insist upon 
 increasing quality and differentiation of their beverages. 
 
 Persons interested in the maintenance of abuses have 
 frequently attempted to uphold them by statements which 
 they themselves did not always believe to be true. The 
 greatest difficulty in the way of our inquiries has been the 
 frequent misrepresentations on the part of producers and 
 merchants regarding the natural alcoholicity of the wines of 
 South Europe. We have dispelled this fog by relying, not 
 upon men or their wines, but upon the scrutiny of musts by 
 the gravimeter. We are sorry to find, that there is some 
 tendency on the part of Australian producers to mystify the 
 public regarding the natural strength of their wines, but 
 rejoice that there are others who by the publication of the 
 observations concerning the strength of their musts enable 
 us to maintain for Australia also the validity of our general 
 scientific conclusions. 
 
PREFACE. xi 
 
 In the course of our studies we have met with much sup- 
 port on the part of British and foreign merchants and pro- 
 ducers interested in the subject. Our warmest thanks 
 are due to the Messrs. W. and A. Gilbey, who have 
 greatly assisted us throughout our labours, and given us 
 such opportunities as we should not otherwise have enjoyed. 
 We also fulfil a pleasant obligation by expressing our thanks 
 to Monsieur Auguste Meller of Bordeaux, Monsieur Emile 
 Perrier of Ch^lon sur Marne, and Herrn Rudolph Henckell 
 of Mayence, for the great assistance given to us in our 
 studies of the viticulture of the Gironde, the Champagne, 
 and the Rhine. 
 
 Many are the friends, acquaintances, and strangers in 
 almost all parts of the world, who supplied us with practical 
 or literary notes, or hints and materials. To all of them we 
 express our best thanks at this agreeable moment of the 
 conclusion of our long and arduous, but faithful and pleasant 
 labours. 
 
 We have also to acknowledge the care and attention 
 bestowed on the woodcuts by Mr. J. D. Cooper and Mr. 
 CoUings. 
 
 October 1871. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ORIGIN AND PHYSIOLOGY OF VINES. 
 k 
 Indigenous vines of European countries, I ; probable derivation of cultivated vines 
 from iindigenous varieties, ii ; fossil vine and grapes, 14; the geographical 
 distribution of vine on the northern hemisphere, 1 7 ; mineral constituents of 
 the vine, 19 ; influence of the soil on the mineral constituents of the vine, 26 ; 
 amount of mineral matter vfhich viticulture abstracts from the soil, 29 ; 
 organic ingredients and chemical development of the vine, 30 ; special investi- 
 gation of the relation of acid and sugar in grapes during ripening, 36 ; 
 peculiarity of ripening of the grapes of the "enfarine," English "black 
 cluster," 40. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF VITICULTURE. 
 
 Soil favourable to viticulture, 46 ; manuring and improvement of the soil in vine- 
 yards, 49 ; improvement of the soil, 50 ; manuring, 52 ; modes of propagating 
 and multiplying the vine, 57 ; summary of general principles of the cultivation 
 of the vine, 67. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 SPECIAL ELUCIDATION OF THE PRINCIPLES OF VITICULTURE. 
 
 Cultivation of the vine in low lines and on a permanent trunk, 71 ; provining as 
 distinguished from laying and producing a nevif trunk, 73 ; pruning of the vine, 
 76 ; time for pruning, 79 ; pinching and cutting the new branches or shoots, 
 81 ; treatment of the vine during vegetation, 84 ; support and protection of the 
 vine, 86 ; necessity of protecting the vine against early frosts, spring rains, and 
 hail, 88 ; mode in which the vine is touched by early spring frosts, 92 ; varieties 
 of vines to be selected for cultivation, 94 ; selection of the most suitable species 
 for the different parts of France, 98. 
 
xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 • CHAPTER IV. 
 
 VINTAGE AND VINIFICATION. 
 
 Time of vintage, loo ; modes of vintage, 103 ; separation of stalks, 105 ; mashing 
 and crushing, 107 ; wine-presses and pressing, 108 ; fermentation, 1 10 ; pro- 
 duction of wine by the process of Petiot, 112; special apparatus and rules 
 required for the production of sugar-solution wines, 1 1 S ; adjustment of acidity 
 and sugar which ought to be made in must before it is allowed to ferment, 116 ; 
 description of the proceedings for making fruit or grape wines, according to the 
 method of Gal], 117; plastering of wine and must, 119. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 CHEMISTRY OF ALCOHOL. 
 
 Physical characters of alcohol, 124 ; elementary constitution and chemical character 
 of alcohol and its homologues, 128 ; determination of the alcohol of wine, 132 ; 
 methods of alcohol-determination based upon the specific gravity of alcoholic 
 mixtures, 133 ; distillation, ib. ; determination of the specific gravity of the 
 alcohol by indirect means, 138 ; methods of alcohol-determination based upon 
 the boiling-point of alcoholic mixtures, 142 ; method of alcohol-determination 
 based upon the vapour tension of alcoholic liquids, 147 ; Geisler's instrument, 
 vaporimeter, ib. ; method of alcohol-determination based upon the expansibi- 
 lity of alcoholic mixtures by heat, 152 ; Silbermann's dilatometer, ib. ; resume, 
 157 ; experiments on the state in which alcohol is contained in wine, 158 ; alde- 
 hydes in wine, t6i ; acet-aldehyde, ib. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE ACIDS IN WINE. 
 
 Lists of acids, 164 ; varieties of tartaric acid, ib. ; malic acid, 169 ; succinic acid, 
 171 ; relations of the foregoing acids to each other, 173 ; acetic acid, 174; 
 formic, propionic, butyric, valerianic, caproic, etc. acids, 183 ; series of fatty 
 acids, ib.; cenanthic acid, 18S ; oenanthic anhydride, 189; estimation of the 
 (juantity of acids in wine, ib. ; estimation of tartaric acid and bitartrate ot 
 potassium in wine, 192. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 THE ETHERS IN WINE. 
 
 Acetoethylic ether, ig8 ; aceto-propylic, bntylic, amylic, caproylic, etc ethers 
 
 199 ; butyro-ethylic, caprylo-ethylic, capro-ethylic, and pelargo-e'thylic ethers^ 
 
 200 ; ojnanthic ether, ib. ; tartaric ether, 201 ; Berthelot's estimation of the 
 ethers in wine, 202 ; new process for the determination of ethers in wine 20-' ■ 
 consideration of Berthelot's theoiv of the limitation of ethers in wine' 216 • 
 .'^mcll, l>ou(_|UCl, aroma, etc. of wine, 219; 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THK VARIETIES OF SUGAR OCCURRING IN WINE, AND METHODS FOR THEIR 
 DETERMINATION. 
 
 Origin of sugar in wine, 222 ; cane-sugar, sucrose, 223 ; grape sugar, starch sugar, 
 dextrose or right lianded glucose, 224; fruit sugar, levulose, left-handed glucose, 
 225 ; invert sugar, ib. ; quantitative estimation of sugar, saccharometi'y, 226 ; 
 polarizing saccharometers of Mitscherlich, Soleil, and Jellett, 237 ; optical 
 examination of wine for sugar, 247. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FATTY, COLOURING, ALBUMINOUS, ASTRINGENT, EXTRACTIVE, AND MINERAL 
 CONSTITUENTS OF WINE. —ANALYTICAL TABLES. 
 
 Glycerine, 253 ; colouring matters, 255 ; ammonia, 260 ; albuminous matters, 
 260 ; estimation of ammonia and albumen in wine by Wanklyn and Chapman's 
 process, 261 ; tannin, 263 ; extractives, 265 ; mineral constituents, 266 ; estima- 
 tion of ash, 267 ; analysis of ash, ib. ; total solid constituents, 272 ; instruments 
 and chemical reagents necessary for the performance of an analysis of wine, 
 277 ; syllabus of analysis, 278 ; tables exhibiting the results of the analyses of 
 various wines from the principal wine-producing countries, 281. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 WINES OF THE GIRONDE. 
 
 The Gironde, 305 ; the Medoc, 306 ; vines cultivated in the Medoc, 307 ; modes 
 of cultivating the soil and vine in the Medoc, 310 ; the vintage in the Medoc,. 
 321 ; qualification of the wines of the Medoc, 326 ; list of classified growths of 
 the Medoc, 329 ; prices of the Medoc wines, 331 ; mode of effecting sales in 
 the Medoc, 332 ; consumption of Medoc wines, 333 ; statistics of viticultural 
 property and production of the Medoc, 334 ; the Graves, 348 ; viticultural 
 statistics of the Sautemes district producing white wines, 357 j viticultural 
 statistics of the part of the Graves or Sautemes district producing red wines, 
 362 ; wines of the hill-sides or cotes of the Gironde, 365 ; classification of the 
 wines of St. Emilion and enumeration of the communes of the Liboume district, 
 370; viticultural statistics of the district of Blaye (Blayais), 371 ; viticultural 
 statistics of the district on the right bank of the Garonne, producing white 
 wines, 375 ; viticultural statistics of the district of the Marshes (Pahus, Entre 
 deux Mers), 379. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 WINES OF ROUSSILLON AND LANGUEDOC. 
 
 Wines of Roussillon, the Oriental PYRf;N^ES : Topography and varieties 
 of vmes, 381 ; mode of cultivation, 382 ; mode of making the Muscat wine, 
 386 ; mode of making the Malvoisic and Maccalieu wines, 3S7 ; vineyard of 
 
i CONTENTS. 
 
 Perpignan, 388 ; recapitulation of the wines of Roiissillon, 389 ; shipment of 
 the wines of Roussillon, li. Wines of l'anguedoc : Topography and soil, 
 390 ; vines cultivated, 391 ; distinguished growths of the department of the 
 Aude, 394 ; remarkable growths of the department of the Gard, ib. ; remark- 
 able growth of the Herault, 396 ; Muscat wines, 398 ; ihanufacture of Trois-six 
 and Eau-de-vie at Montpellier, ii. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 WINES OF THE EAST OF FRANCE. 
 
 Wines of the Rh6ne Valley : Topographical survey, 404 ; C6te-du-Rh6ne, 
 405 ; Chiteau-neuf-du-Pape, 406 ; vineyard of St. Peray Ardeche, 408 ; 
 vineyard of the Ermitage, 409 ; vineyards of Crozes, Larnage, and Mercurol, 
 41 1 ; vineyards of La Roliere and Die, ii. ; vineyard of Condrieu (department 
 of the Rhone), 412 ; vineyard of Cote-Rotie (department of the Rh6ne), 413. 
 Wines of the Sa6ne Valley : General survey of the Beaujolais, MSconnais, 
 and the Chalon C6te, 414 ; the Beaujolais, 415 ; dominating vines, and their 
 cultivation, ib. ; vintage, 417 ; general classification of the wines, ib. ; 
 classification of the Beaujolais wines by the traders of Macon, 418 ; the Macon- 
 nais, general division of district and soil, ib. ; predominating vines, 419 ; mode 
 of cultivation, vintage and treatment of red wines, 420 ; cultivation of the 
 white vine, maturing and character of white wine, 421 ; classification of the 
 MSconnais wines by the traders of Macon, 422 ; Cote of Chalon, ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE WINES OF BURGUNDY. 
 
 Introduction, 425 ; topography of Burgundy, 426 ; varieties of vines planted in the 
 Bourgogne, 427 ; mode of cultivation, 428 ; manuring, 430 ; labour, 431 ; 
 grafting, 432 ; summer treatment of the vine, 434 ; vintage, ib. ; vatting and 
 fermentation, 437 ; presses and pressing, 441 ; after-treatment of the wine in 
 Burgundy, 442 ; area and classification of the vineyards in the arrondissement 
 of Beaune, 443. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE WINES OF THE CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Topography, 444 ; soil of the Champagne, 450 ; preparation of the soil, planting 
 of vineyards, and cultivation of the vine, 45 1 ; value of the vineyards 453 ; 
 varieties of vines grown in the Champagne, ib. ; the vintage in the Champagne, 
 455 ; pressing, fermentation, cellaring, and fining of the wine, 458; the drawing 
 into bottles (tirage), 463 ; clearing of the bottles of yeast, or disgorging, 466 ; 
 liqueuring, corking, and finishing, 467 ; varieties and qualities of champagne,' 
 and quantity and increase of its production, 470 ; short history of champagne 
 and its manufacture, 473 ; scientific consideration of the champagne preparation 
 process, 475. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 WINES OF THE VALLEYS OF THE LOIRE AND CHARENTE. — GENERAL CLASSI- 
 FICATION OF THE WINES OF FRANCE. 
 
 Vines of the valley of the Loire, 487 ; mode of cultivation, 488 ; department of 
 the Charente and Cognac, 490 ; varieties of vines producing the eau-de-vie 
 of Cognac, ib. ; mode of obtaining the eau-de-vie of Cognac, 491 ; names of 
 the vines cultivated in the different parts of France, 493 ; general classification 
 of the wines of France, 495 ; red wines, first class, id. ; red wines, second 
 class, 496 ; red wines, third class, 497 ; red wines, fourth class, 498 ; red 
 wines, fifth class, 5°' ! white wines, first class, 509 ; white wines, second 
 class, id. ; white wines, third class, 5 10 ; white wines, fourth class, 5 1 1 ; 
 white wities, fifth class, 512; liqueur wines, first class, 515; liqueur wines, 
 second class, 516; liqueur wines, third class, ii.; list of the second-rate 
 vineyards of France producing good ordinary wines, 317. , 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE WINES OF ALSATIA ; OP THE PALATINATE, OR RHENISH BAVARIA ; OF 
 RHENISH HESSIA; OF FRANCONiJA, OR THE UPPER MAINE; OF BADEN, 
 wiJRTEMBERG, AND HESSJJ NORTH OIF THE MAINE. 
 
 Wines of Alsatia : Vines and cultivation, 525 4 classification of the wines of 
 Alsatia, 527 ; liqueur wines, and second-rate vineyards, 528. Wines of the 
 Palatinate, or Rhenish Bavaria : Topography, 528 ; mode of cultiva- 
 tion, 530 ; the closed-chamber training, or Kanwnerbau, id. ; prevailing 
 vines, 533 ; advantages of the mixed sets of vines in the vineyards of the 
 Palatinate, 535. Wines of Ruekish Hessia , Liebfraumilch, Oberingel- 
 heim, and Scharlachberg, 536 ; area of the vineyards of the villages in the 
 province of Rhenish Hessia, 537, Wines of Franconia, or the Upper: 
 Maine : Topography of Franconia, 540 j the Leiste, id. ; cultivation of the 
 vine, 541 ; variety of vines in the Leiste, id. ; the Stein, 542 ; viticulture in 
 the neighbourhood of Wiirtzburg, 543. Wines of Baden, Wijrtemberg, 
 AND Hesse north of the Maine : Markgrafler, Affenthaler, and the 
 Pfaffenwald, 544. 
 
 CHAPTER XVn. 
 
 THE WINES OP THE RHEINGAXT ; OK THE LOWER MAINE; AND OF THE 
 
 MOSELLE. 
 
 The Rheingau : Topography, 545 ; historical notes, 547 ; varieties of vines cul- 
 tivated in the Rheingau, 548 ; general condition of the Rheingau, 551. 
 Hochheim : Topography and soil, 552 ; EUfeld (or Eltville), 557 ; Rauenthal, 
 559 ; Kiedricb, id. ; the Steinberg, 560; the Johannisberg, 567 ; Geisenheim, 
 571 ; Riidesheim, 572 ; Assm^nnshausen, 574 ; area of vineyards in bearing in 
 the former I'Juchy, now Prussian province, of Nassau, 576 ; recapitulation, 577 ; 
 
cviii CONTENTS. 
 
 Rhenish measures of capacity, 578. The Wines of the Moselle : Topo- 
 graphy, 578 ; varieties of vines and modes of cultivation prevailing along the 
 Moselle, 580 ; the vintage, 583 ; characters of Moselle wine, ib. ; area of the 
 \ vineyards in the province of Rhenish Prussia, 586. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 THE WINES OF Al'STRIA. 
 
 The Wines of Lower Austria ; Wines of Kloster Neuburg, 587 ; the red 
 wine of Vbslau near Vienna, 588. The Wines and Grapes of the Tyrol . 
 Topography, 590 ; vinification, 593 ; the gi'ape cure at Meran, 594. The 
 Wines of Styria : Topography and soil, 596 ; social condition of Styria as 
 influencing viticulture, 598 ; soil, 600 ; varieties of vines cultivated, ib, ; mode 
 of planting and cultivating the vine, 602 ; vinification in Styria, 603 ; the 
 pressing in Styria, 604 ; quantity and nature of the wine produced, ib. Wines 
 of Croatia: Introduction, 606; pievailing vines, ib.; mode of cultivation, 
 607 ; exhibition of wines at Agram in 1864, 609. Wines of Dalmatia : 
 Topography and climate, 611 ; mode of cultivation, 612 ; varieties of vines, 613; 
 vintage and vinification, 614 ; description of the wines, 615. Wines of 
 ISTRIA : Topography and viticulture, 617 ; vines, vinification, and wines, 618. 
 Wines of Gortz, 619. Wines hf Bohemia, 620. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 the wines of HUNGARY. 
 
 The Wixes of Hungary : Introductory remark*, 622 ; topography, 623 ; varie- 
 ties of soil, 624 ; varieties of vines, ib. ; mode of cultivation, 626 ; vintage, 627 ; 
 vinification, 628; composition of. the fousel oil of Hungarian wines, ib. 
 classification of Hungarian wines, 629. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE WINES OF SPAIN. 
 
 Introduction and topography, 632 ; wines of Xeres, or sherries, 635 • soil 636 • 
 vines of the sherry districts, 637 ; episodical comparison of the density of sherry 
 must, with the specific gravity of must produced from different vines in various 
 countries and years,' 638 ; modes of making sherry, 644 ; treatment of wines in 
 the Bodega, 645 ; alcoholic strength of sherries, 648 ; natural sherry, 649 ; 
 simmering, boiling, and sugaring of must, 650 ; preparation of wine for export,' 
 651 ; mixing stations, 652; Manzanilla, ib. ; fashion influencing sherry, 653 '; 
 wines of Niebla, Moguer, etc., ib. ; wines of Rota, 654 ; wines of the Val de 
 Penas, ib. ; wines of Catalonia, Aragon, and Valencia, ib. ; wines of Granada 
 657 ; vilicultural statistics of the district of Xeres de la Frontera 6i;q ' 
 
CONTENTS. xix 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 THE WINES OF PORTUGAL. 
 
 Topography of the port wine district, 672 ; preparation of the soil on the Douro, 
 673 ; varieties of vines grown on the Douro, 674 ; mode of cultivating the 
 vine, ib. ; vintage and modes of vinification, 675 ; jeropiga, 677 ; remarks on 
 vinification on the Douro, ib. ; on the addition of brandy to port wine, 678 ; 
 the elder-tree on the Douro, 684 ; historical notes of the port wine trade, 686 ; 
 value of port wine, ib. ; white port, 687 ; possible extension of production of 
 port wines, ib. ; alphabetical list of the principal places in the wine districts of 
 the Alto Douro, 688 ; other wines of Portugal, ib. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 TBE WINES OF THE ATLANTIC ISLANDS. 
 
 First Group: Madeira and the small Desertas. — Historical note, 691 ; 
 soil, ib. ; varieties of vines, 692 ; mode of cultivation, ib. ; vintage and vinifi- 
 cation, ib. ; maturation of the wine, 693 ; description of the wines, ib. ; 
 classification of growths, 694 ; quantity of wine produced, ib. Second 
 Group : the Canaries, comprising Teneriffe, Canaria, Lanzerote, Fuerteven- 
 tura, Palma, Gomera, and Ferro. — Vines, situation, wines — malvasia and 
 canary-sect, vino seco or seccato, production, oidium, 695. Third Group : 
 the Azores, comprising Pico, Terceira, San Miguel, Fayal, San Jorge, and 
 Graciosa, 695-696. 
 
 CHAPTER XXHI. 
 
 THE WINES OF ITALY, ROUMANIA, GREECE, AND THE TURKISH ISLANDS. 
 
 Wines of Italy : Wines of Piedmont, 697 ; wines of Sardinia, 698 ; wines of 
 Tuscany, ib. ; wines of Lombardy and Venetia, 699 ; wines of Central Italy, 
 701 ; Neapolitan wines, ib. ; wines of Sicily, 702. Wines of Macedonia 
 AND Thessaly (Roumania), 703. Wines of Greece : General remarks, 
 703 ; vines, 704 ; vinification, 705 ; South Thessaly, ib. ; Livadia, ib. ; Morea, 
 706 ; the islands of the Archipelago, ib. ; Santorin, ancient Thera, 707 ; mode 
 of training the vine, ib. ; varieties of vines, 708 ; quantity .of wine produced, 
 ib. ; qualities of the wines, ib. ; Ionian Islands, ib. Wines of the 
 Turkish Islands : Candia, Rhodes, Cyprus, 709-710. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE WINES OF ASIA. 
 
 Wines of Caucasia : Cachetia, Georgia, Mingrelia, Imeretia, Armenia, and 
 Schirwan, 711-712. Wines of Persia. Jving Dschemschid, 712-713. 
 Wines of Shiraz: Description of vines grown at Shiraz. — Production, con- 
 sumption, and export of Per.sian wines, 713-716. 
 
XX CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 THE WINES OF AKRICA. — WINES OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 Topography, climate, and soil, 717; historical note concei-ning viticulture at the 
 Cape, 718 ; varieties of vines cultivated at the Cape, ib. ; peculiarities of cultiva- 
 tion, vintage and vinification, 719 ; qualification of Cape wines, 720; imports 
 of Cape wine into England, ib. ; principal viticultural districts and estates, Ui. 
 The Vine in other parts of Africa : Indigenous vines of Madagascar, 
 French Islands, Morocco, its vines and raisins, Algiers, Egypt, 722-723. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 THE VINES AND WINES OF AMERICA. 
 
 Historical notes on the cultivation of the vine in North Amejica, 724 ; the wild or 
 indigenous vines of North America, 725 ; cultivation of the vine in America, 
 731 ; varieties of vines cultivated in North America, 732 ; cultivation of vines 
 foreign to America, 734 ; vinification in the United States, statistical notes on 
 the production of wine in North America, 735 ; extent of trade in sparkling 
 Catawba, acreage under viticulture, 736 j years of good and bad vintages in 
 North America, 737. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIl. 
 
 THE WINES of AUSTRALIA. 
 
 Historical note, 738 ; peculiarities of the Australian climate, 739 ; viticulture In 
 New South Wales, 740 ; viticulture in South Australia, 741 ; viticulture in 
 Victoria, 741 ; description of Australian wines, 742 ; conclusion, 744; alcohol 
 or spirit tables, 746-752. 
 
7 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 FIG. 
 
 1. Inflorescence of Hermaphrodite Wild and Cultivated Vines . 1 
 
 2. Inflorescence of Male or Sterile Wild Vines, with open honey-cup in 
 
 place of fruit 
 
 3. Inflorescence of Female or Fructiferous Wild Vines, with recurved 
 
 stamina .......... 
 
 4. Leaves of Sterile "Mescle" . 
 
 5. Leaves of Fertile "Mescle" ....... 
 
 6. Impressions of Leaves of the Fossil Vine ( Vitis teutonica) on blocks of 
 
 lignite from Salzhausen . . . . . . . .15 
 
 7. Polar and equatorial limits of the culture of the Vine in Europe and 
 
 Asia ........... 
 
 8. Apparatus for measuring the pressure of the rising sap • ... 33 
 
 9. Eye ready for planting in open beds in vineyards . . . \ 
 
 lb. Young Vine, one summer's growth, from eye planted in open bed in \ 58 
 vineyard .......... ) 
 
 1 1 . Eye and slice of cane ready for being embedded in earth. Pot of earth 
 
 with the eye embedded, plunged in tan . . • • 59 
 
 12. Cut Canes, ready for being planted di 
 
 13. Vine, one of the canes of which has been buried to form a layer . . 62 
 
 14. Hook-shaped gouging chisel for producing grooves for grafting . . 65 
 
 15. A vine cut off transversely, and provided with the groove for receiving 
 
 the graft : the graft with the bark removed where it is to fit into 
 the groove of the stock ; a rooted graft, and its appearance after 
 planting and grafting are completed ... ... 66 
 
 16. Mode of provining in the Champagne 74 
 
 17. Vine trained according to the system of Guyot, as it appears in 
 
 autumn, after removal of fruit and leaves . . 75 
 
KIG 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 rAGK 
 
 1 8. Vine trained according to the system of Giiyot, as it appears after being 
 
 pruned . . . ....•• 77 
 
 19. Vine trained according to the system of Guyot, as it appears at the 
 
 period of growth when the flower buds are developed and pinchmg 
 may be effected , . . .81 
 
 20. Line of Vines trained according to the system of Guyot, with stakes 
 
 . and wires, in full bearing . . • • °7 
 
 21. Mode of separating stalks from grapes by stirring with a trident . 105 
 
 22. Machine for separating grapes from stalks . • • '°^ 
 
 23. Grape mill for crushing grapes, with grooved rollers ■ 107 
 
 24. Wine press as used in the Gironde for pressing the murk of red wine 
 
 after fermentation . . ... 108 
 
 25. Wine press as used in the Gironde for pressing white grapes before 
 
 fermentation . . . I09 
 
 26. Specific gravity bottle ... ... 134 
 
 27. Apparatus employed for the distillation of wine .... 135 
 
 28. Elevation and section of Pohl's EbuUioscope ..... 143 
 
 29. Crockford's Patent Spirit Indicator, with hydrometer for taking the 
 
 specific gravity of the wine . . , ... 144 
 
 30. Geisler's Vaporimeter ......... 148 
 
 31. Silbermann's Dilatometer . . . . 153 
 
 32. Apparatus employed for the decomposition of the fixed ethers of wine, 
 
 and for the distillation of acetic acid in the estimation of fixed ethers 205 
 
 33. Water-bath . 206 
 
 34. Measuring flask . . . . . 
 
 207 
 
 35. Assay Flask 
 
 36. Polarization of Light by reflection ....... 232 
 
 37. Showing the direction of the vibrations in a ray of light, &c., polar- 
 
 ized by reflection ... . . 233 
 
 38. Elevation and section of an elongated prism of Iceland spar, showing 
 
 the direction in which it is cut when made into a Nicol's prism . 234 
 
 39. Longitudinal section of Nicol's prism 
 
 40. Sections of two Nicol's prisms superimposed 
 
 41. Cylinder of a substance possessing the power of circular polarization . 236 
 
 42. Jellett's Polarometer arranged for an experiment 
 
 43. Right prism of Iceland spar cut from an elongated rhombic prism 
 
 44. Perspective view of Jellett's analysing prism 
 
 45. Section of Jellett's analysing prism 
 
 46. Diagram of the planes of polarization in Jellett's prism \ ^43 
 
 235 
 
 240 
 242 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xxiii 
 
 KIC. I'AGE 
 
 47. Section of compensating bottle, &c., of Jellett's saccharometer . . 245 
 
 48. Flat porcelain crucible for evaporating the 20 c. u. of wine . , . 272 
 
 49. Normally trained vines of the Haut Medoc, 4 years old, 8 years old, 
 
 and 16 years old ....... . . 312 
 
 50. Normally ti-ained vines of the Haut Medoc, 40 years old and 90 years 
 
 old . . . . . 312 
 
 51. Normal cultivation of the Haut Medoc 314 
 
 52. Lings of vines, the earth in course of being dressed with the plough 315 
 
 53. Vines in lines on ridges, the earth being thrown up around the stems 
 
 (chaussees) .... . . . 316 
 
 54. A vine upwards of 100 years of age, as trained at Malines, near Ver- 
 
 teillac ... . 317 
 
 55. Vine supported by a walnut-tree, as seen at Celles, canton of Monta- 
 
 gries, arrondissement of Riberac, departement de la Dordogne . 318 
 
 56. Vine trained upon a tree called "goblet-shape," as seen at St. Gaudens, 
 
 near Toiilouse, departement de la Haute Garonne 319 
 
 57. Normal cuUivation of the Graves ... . . 350 
 
 58. Normal cultivation of the Sauternes district . . . . .351 
 
 59. Vine as trained in the Saint Emilion district and in the Palus of the 
 
 Fronsadais . . . ..... 366 
 
 60. Vines of the Palus (Villenave d'Ornon) pruned for spring growth . 367 
 
 61. Vineyards of Banynls, Port-Vendres, and CoUioure . 383 
 
 62. Vine of the Herault, with all its wood, as seen in winter •) 
 
 63. Vines of the Herault pruned and their "feet" uncovered > ,397 
 
 64. Vine of the Herault and Lot in full bearing ) 
 
 65. Group of vines as trained on the Cote-Rotie . . .413 
 
 66. Vine of the Beaujolais fixed to its stake, in full bearing ; pruned vine 
 
 of the Beaujolais before the commencement of growth in spring 416 
 
 67. View of vines bearing the red Burgundy grapes in the Cote d'Or 430 
 
 68. Effect of pinching bunch-stalks . . . 431 
 
 69. Section of a full cask, with tube spigot 442 
 
 70. View of vines in the vineyards of the Ardennes 451 
 
 71. Mode of provining in the Champagne . . 452 
 72-. View of terraces, planted with olive-trees, and vines in front . 489 
 
 73. Vines at the end of the vegetation period on the olive-bearing terraced 
 
 heights of the department of the Var 490 
 
 74. Aspect of a typical vine in Alsatia in full bearing .... 526 
 
 75. The typical vine without its leaves, to show its benches of grapes and 
 
 the adjustment of its wood ... . . 527 
 
xxiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 76. Frame for training vines according to the method termed " Karamer- 
 
 bau " 531 
 
 77. Vines pruned each upon two fruit-branches, and two wood-branches 
 
 attached to the frames of the " Kammerbau " . . • -532 
 
 78. View of a frame of the " Kammerbau " covered with vines in full vege- 
 
 tation .......••••■ 53^ 
 
 79. Vine trained according to the method recently adopted in Lorraine, in . 
 
 full bearing ... . ' ' ' ( ^^' 
 
 80. Vine pnmed according to the method recently adopted in Lorraine ' 
 8i. A vine with one fruit-branch and one wood-branch only, and a vine 
 
 with one bent cane for fruit, and a spur for wood, as grown at 
 Pagny in the Meurthe . . ... . 582 
 
 82. A vine trained and pruned in the shape called "horns,'' and a vine 
 
 trained and pruned to the shape called "head-knob,"' or "willow- 
 tree top "... 591 
 
 83. View of vines trained and cut to the shape called " head-kiiob, " in full 
 
 bearing, as seen at Seyssel, Switzerland . . 591 
 
 84. Diagram of spectrum of Alto Douro wine . . 681 
 
 85. Diagram of spectrum of elderberry juice . 685 
 
A TREATISE 
 
 THE ORIGIN. NATURE, AND' 
 USE OF WINE, 
 
 ETC. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ORIGIN AND PHYSIOLOGY OF VINES. 
 
 Indigenous vines of European countries. — Probable derivation of cultivated vines 
 from indigenous varieties. — Fossil vine and grapes. — Geographical distribution 
 of cultivated vines on the northern hemisphere. — Mineral constituents of the 
 vine. — Influence of the soil on the mineral constituents of the vine. — Amount 
 of mineral matter which viticulture abstracts from the soil. — Organic ingre- 
 .dients and chemical development of the vine. — Special investigation of the 
 relation of acid and sugar in grapes during ripening. ■ 
 
 INDIGENOUS VINES OF EUROPEAN COUNTRIES. 
 
 Most botanical authors have assumed that all the vines of 
 Europe are derived from one particular species, the Vitis 
 vinifera, which they imagine to be a native of Asia, and to 
 have been imported into the Western world in prehistoric 
 times. The primary grounds for this surmise were perhaps 
 the Semitic traditions of Paradise, and the Greek mythos 
 of the migration from India to Hellas of the wine-god Dio- 
 nysos. From Greece the vine was supposed to have come to 
 Italy, and from this latter country to have been imported into 
 France and Germany by the agency of historical colonization. 
 Whenever a German botanist met with a wild vine in the 
 
 <C, B 
 
2 INDIGENOUS VINES OF [chap. 
 
 Rhine valley, he explained its existence by the assumption 
 that it was a degenerated offspring of vines carried thither 
 by the Romans ; and, inversely, enthusiastic antiquarians 
 declared the presence of these plants in the marshes of the 
 Rhine valley as relics, nay, even as evidence of the former 
 existence of Roman settlements. This opinion obtained 
 almost universal credence, until Gmelin, in elaborating the 
 " Flora Badensis, " observed that the wild vine frequently 
 occurred in the dioic state. He then described such plants 
 botanically, and gave them a separate place in his treatise 
 under the special-name of Vitis sylvestris. In most botanical 
 works which appeared subsequently to Gmelin, the Vitis 
 sylvestris is quoted after him, but the discovery is mostly 
 neutralized by the remark that the Vitis sylvestris was nothing 
 but a degenerated Vitis vinifera. Other botanists, amongst 
 them Reichenbach, fell into the error of confounding the 
 American vine, the Vitis labrusca, — the first variety which 
 Linn^ accepted by the side of the vinifera, — with the 
 sylvestris. This singular failure of able botanists is the 
 more astonishing, since Crescentius,^ who lived in the thir- 
 teenth century at Bologna, and wrote a compendium on the 
 Italian vines, stated that he had met with many varieties of 
 wild vine in Italy, which appeared to him to be peculiar sorts ; 
 and Clemente,^ in his work on the vines of Andalusia, recog- 
 nized the peculiar character of the wild vines of his country, 
 and believed them to be indigenous to it, and consequently 
 to have existed there previous to the introduction or origina- 
 tion of the cultivated species. He expresses himself very 
 strongly against the limitation of botanists who assume only 
 one Vitis vinifera, and refer all other varieties to a play of 
 nature. He says that in the neighbourhood of Algaida, 
 near Sanlucar de Barrameda, there grow in the wild state 
 different kinds of vines which are perfectly characterized. 
 He refers to their varying ages, and points out that the young 
 plants have the same characters as the old ones. From this 
 
 ' Petrus de Crescenliis, Opus ruralium commodonim : Augsburg, 147 1; Lou- 
 vain, 1474. 
 
 ^ Simon Roxas Cleinente was Director of the Royal Botanical Gardens, Madrid. 
 
1.] EUROPEAN COUNTRIES. 3 
 
 he further argues that they have probatly preserved these 
 same characters through an inconceivable series of centuries 
 during which countless generations have been propagated by 
 seed. He describes how, in the lower parts of the district, 
 where there are soulrces of sweet water not far from the sur- 
 face of the earth, the wild vine forms impenetrable thickets, 
 grottoes, covered walks, winding footpaths, walls, arches, 
 pillars, and by means of other plants, particularly trees, 
 other original shapes, which it is impossible to describe. He 
 states that it cannot be proved by any document that a 
 vine has ever been planted in this neighbourhood in former 
 times. What he says about the improbability of the Arabs 
 having brought the vine thither is perhaps irrelevant, as he 
 bases his argument upon the fact of wine having been forr 
 bidden to them by their religion. They might have culti- 
 vated it for the sake of the grapes and raisins. But the 
 strongest argument in favour of his opinion is the small resem- 
 blance which these wild species of Algaida vines have to the 
 cultivated varieties of the south of Spain. He thereby eli- 
 minates the idea that the first seed of these plants had been 
 carried to these marshes from neighbouring vineyards, within 
 a period not far distant from the time when he (Clemente) 
 wrote, by the agency of men, or animals, or other means. 
 
 In Provence, Languedoc, and Guyenne there grow 
 many wild vines on hedges, in jungles, or in woods and 
 forests. According to Duhamel,^ they differ from the culti- 
 vated varieties by their leaves being in general smaller, and 
 more cottony on the surface, and particularly by their fruit 
 being much smaller, and of a less soft and sugary taste. 
 These wild vines, to which the ancients had given the name of 
 " labrusca, " are yet known in the present day in the south of 
 France, under the name of "Lambrusco" and "Lambresquiero." 
 
 In the forests which border the marshy shores of the Rhine, 
 between Mannheim and Rastadt, there grow many thousands 
 of wild vines, which, as far as they had been observed at all, 
 were, like the Vitis sylvestris of Gmelin, declared by botanists 
 
 1 Duhamel de Monceau, Traite des Arbres fruitieis, p. 212. 
 B 2 
 
4 INDIGENOUS VINES OF [chap. 
 
 to be degenerated vines disseminated from humanplantations, 
 through the agency of birds and men. This error was dis- 
 pelled by the investigations of that distinguished cenologist, 
 the late J. P. Bronner, of Wiesloch, near Heidelberg. He 
 studied these children of the forest in their natural haunts 
 during several years ; he visited them in early summer-tinje, 
 and selected from the many thousand individuals the types of 
 inflorescence and multifarious forms of leaves ; he marked 
 the places of their abode, and returning in the fall saw and 
 tasted the grapes, which had then come to maturity. After 
 devoting years to the observation of the several constant 
 varieties, he took cuttings from them and planted them in 
 his garden at Wiesloch in order to observe their bearing in 
 the state of cultivation. ^ He had thus planted thirty-six 
 varieties, when in the year 1842, a very favourable wine-year, 
 most of his plants bore very perfect fruit, and brought it 
 to the utmost maturity. None of these plants had changed 
 their original character by cultivation. Bronner caused accurate 
 pictorial representations of their fruit to be made. Already, 
 during the time of blossoming, he had obtained faithful 
 portraits of the flowers, leaves, and branches by a kind of 
 nature printing, and when these were coloured by the artist 
 the whole formed a complete botanical atlas of the wild 
 vines of the Upper Rhine valley." 
 
 1 In the autumn of 1866 one of us visited this vineyard at Wiesloch, and in 
 company with its present proprietor, the son and successor of the late M. Bronner, 
 examined a considerable number of these children of the Rhine marshes. Leaves, 
 fruit, and habit admitted of the direct identification of several species described 
 in the following pages, particularly the barren varieties, and the varieties with 
 inedible or very acid fruit at once struck the eye. The Schamsia ligustrica could be 
 diagnosed at the first glance. Several varieties had perished, and several could no,t 
 any longer be identified. M. Bronner, for whose courteous and friendly reception 
 we feel deeply grateful, freely acknowledged not to have inherited the enthusiasm 
 for oenology which characterized his father. But he kept the remarkable vineyard, 
 with its hundreds of rose-trees overtopping the vines, in the condition to which his 
 father had raised it. In the lower garden the visitor admired the splendid "blue 
 Wildbacher" vine, which had overgrown an entire large pear-tree, and without 
 ever having been pruned had brought a harvest which it had taken two men two 
 days to cut down. 
 
 " This atlas is now in the Library and Museum of the Oiconomical and Agri- 
 cultural Society of Baden, at Karlsruhe. 
 
I.] EUROPEAN COUNTRIES. S 
 
 At the same time Bronner made an accurate botanical 
 diagnosis of, and attributed a suitable Latin name to each 
 variety, and arranged the whole in a special system, based 
 upon the construction of the flowers and the formation of 
 the fruit. 
 
 The inflorescence of these wild vines shows three distinct 
 forms. A considerable number of plants exhibit only a 
 male inflorescence without any umbilicus capable of fructi- 
 fication ; in the place where there should be a beginning of 
 a berry, there is a yellow receptacle with honey. The plant 
 produces an enormous number of blossoms, each of which 
 is several inches in length, and with its long yellow stamina 
 and terminal pollen bags resembles a brush such as is used 
 for cleaning bottles. The flowers distribute a most agreeable 
 odour around the plant.^ 
 
 A certain number of the other vines have exactly the same 
 inflorescence as the cultivated vines ; they are hermaphrodite, 
 with long projecting yellow stamina and pollen bags, and 
 an umbilicus capable of impregnation. The leaves of 
 these vines differ but little from those of the cultivated 
 varieties, but the fruit has a different shape and a different 
 chemical nature, being often very acid and sometimes quite 
 inedible. 
 
 But the great majority of individuals as well as species of 
 wild vine has a most peculiar inflorescence, differing consi- 
 derably from the two forms just described. On looking upon 
 an active blossom of this class, the spectator receives the 
 impression that it is an undeveloped bunch of buds, from 
 which the ordinary cover of the flower, the so-called crown or 
 cap, which the cultivated vine always sheds completely, had 
 not yet been thrown off". On close examination it is however 
 seen that the cap is actually detached, although it remains 
 Hanging upon the flower, and the stamina are seen bent down- 
 wards below the basis of the future fruit. The stamina be- 
 come, as botanists technically term them, " stamina recurvata," 
 and thus greatly diff'er in appearance from the "stamina 
 
 1 Compare with this description the account which Pliny gives of the 
 -"oenanth,-" alluded to in the historical division of this treatise. 
 
INDIGENOUS VINES OF 
 
 [chap.- 
 
 erecta" of the wild unproductive variety above described, apd 
 of the hermaphrodite wild and cultivated plants. 
 
 It is to be regretted that Bronner did not study the phy- 
 siological relations of the male plants with erect stamina to 
 those which showed the "stamina recurvata," the more so as 
 he himself surmised that these latter plants are unable to 
 
 . Fig. I. — Inflorescence of Hermaplirodite Wild and Cultivated Vines. (Magnified by lens ) 
 
 Fig. 2. — Inflorescence of Male or Sterile Wild Vines, with open honey-cup in pl^ce of fruit^ 
 
 (Magnified by lens.) 
 
 Fig. 3.— Inflorescence of Female or Fructiferous Wild Vines, with recurved stamina. (Magnified 
 
 by lens.) 
 
 fructify themselves, but require the male plants for fructi- 
 fication. The transfer of the pollen from the male to the 
 female individuals^ which are mostly standing at a distance 
 from each other, is very probably effected by the agency of 
 insects. The male plants seem to belong to different species 
 or varieties, as indicated by differences in their leaves. But 
 
!•] 
 
 EUROPEAN COUNTRIES. 
 
 .these were not particularly inquired into by Broiiner. The 
 male plants were perhaps capable of fructifying any bf the 
 female plants, and thus producing new varieties by crossing. 
 
 It will be seen from our account of the American vines that 
 they also occur in the polygamic as well as the dioic state- 
 Monographers do not admit this to be a characteristic feature, 
 but hold it to be an accident to which any variety may be 
 subject. 
 
 In the vineyards of the department of the Ain, in France, 
 a variety of vine is cultivated which is termed the " mescle." 
 It has long bunches of oval grapes and deeply lobated leaves, 
 mostly with five divisions. Each of these divisions or lobes 
 is provided with a considerable expanse of vegetable mem- 
 brane on both sides of the principal so-called nerve in every 
 case in which the plant is fertile ; but a leaf with a narrow 
 strip of membrane on both sides of the nerve indicates a ste- 
 rile plant. The plants can be easily distinguished, even at 
 a distance, with the help of the following engravings. 
 
 ■Fig. 4- — Leaves of Sterile ** Mescle." 
 
 Fig. 5.— Leaves of Fertile "Me-scle. 
 
 The plants indicated by Fig. 4 are absolutely and always 
 sterile, and the vine-dressers term them " plants craputs." 
 They grow luxuriant branches, and the apparently crippled 
 character of their leaves is no indication of any general want 
 of vigour. Their cuttings and pro-vines are as sterile as 
 
5 INDIGENOUS VINES OF [chap 
 
 the parent stocks. The vine-dressers in the Ain have a 
 fable to account for this pecuHarity; namely, that it is pro- 
 duced by planting canes which have grown from old wood. 
 Guyot,^ who noticed the fact, was as unable to account for it 
 as the vine-dressers, and laboured to establish a relation be- 
 tween the expanse of the leaf and the fecundity of the shrub. 
 We think, however, that the sterile mescle will be found to 
 be the male, and the fertile either the female or hermaphro- 
 dite. In this we are confirmed by the curious circumstance 
 that no vine-dresser dares totally to extirpate the sterile 
 mescle from his vineyard, although he abstains from increas- 
 ing the number of individuals. 
 
 Bronner divided the hermaphrodite indigenous wild vines 
 of the Rhine valley into two classes. The first class com- 
 prises those which have flowers with recurvate short stamina. 
 The orders and varieties are determined by the shape and 
 colour of the berries. The second class comprises the vines 
 with flowers bearing long erect stamina. The orders are agaiii 
 determined as before. 
 
 Class I. Flowers with short stamina. 
 
 Order I. Berries round. 
 
 Sub-order A. Berries reddish blue. 
 
 Berberina villosa. Bears acid, inedible grapes. 
 
 Tyrtaviia revoluta. All young leaves are bent back at the margin, almost 
 rolled in, Acidulous grapes. 
 
 Sub-order B. Berries blackish blue. 
 
 Arminia confecta. Small acidulous grapes of the size of peas. 
 
 A. sylvatica. Acid, hard fleshy grapes, with little juice, almost inedible. Most 
 common, but not very fertile. 
 
 A. obtusiloba. The middle lobe is very short and obtuse, as if cut off ; very 
 small bunch, from 4 to i inch in length ; grapes a little sweet. 
 
 Order II. Berries oblong. 
 Sub-order A. Berries green. 
 Maerklinia mridis. Bears green, almost inedible grapes. 
 
 ' Rapport sur la Viticulture de 1' Ain, p. 137. 
 
I.] EUROPEAN COUNTRIES. g 
 
 Sub-order B. Berries blackish blue. 
 
 Palatina dichotoma. Every fruit-stalk is divided into two equally strong branches. 
 Grape acid. 
 
 P, oblonga. Oblong grape. 
 
 P. septemloba. Seven- lobed leaf. 
 
 P. Wisilocensis and sylvestris seem less well defined. 
 
 P. tilesifolia. Leaf like lime-tree leaf, undivided. Of this variety Bronner 
 had also diagnosed the male. 
 
 P. sinuata. Deeply cut or sinuated leaf. 
 
 P. tnacrocarpa. Large bunch, like noirien. 
 
 P. dissecta. Deeply lobed and sub-lobed, so that the leaf consists almost of 
 teeth only. 
 
 Dwnysia isidorophylla. Leaf like that of Elbling. (Isidora nobilis, Burger.) 
 
 Class II. Flowers with long stamina. 
 Order L Berries round. 
 Sub-order A. Berries green. 
 Zaehringia nobilis. The grapes are as large as those of Riessling, and are 
 yellow when ripe. They have a luscious sweet taste, with the flavour of orange- 
 flower, on account of which Bronner termed them " the orange grapes." 
 
 Sub-order B. Berries reddish blue. 
 ■ Sickleria brevicirrhata. Grapes acid. 
 
 Elisabetha rubicunda. The grapes are reddish blue and of great size and fine 
 shape. -They have the peculiarity of the rose muscadine chasselas in this, that they 
 turn red at an early period ; the points of the old leaves, the entire young leaves, 
 and the young wood bunch are all quite red. 
 
 Berberina venusta. The grape of this vine is of remarkable size (5 inches in 
 length) and shape, but so acid that even the birds in winter refuse to eat the 
 berries, 
 
 Sub-order C. Berries blackish blue. 
 
 Heddcea mitissima. Splendid black grapes of the size of a great Burgundy grape. 
 
 Schamsia ligustrica. Leaf very small. Bays between leaves widely open. 
 Grapes resemble greatly the fruit of Ligustrum vulgare (privet berry) in shape, size, 
 and colour. Taste acidulous. 
 
 Noachia macrophylla. Very large leaves, 8 to 9 inches' diameter. Grapes sweet. 
 
 Ludnvica cylindrica. The largest bunch of all wild vines on the Rhine, averaging 
 6 to 8 inches in length. Very suitable for cultivation. 
 
 Gockia crescentifolia. Leaf very similar to that of the Traminer. 1 
 
 Thalesia rubrivenia. Ribs and nerves of leaves coloured red. 
 
 Vioscoridea grata. Grape agreeably sweet. 
 
 Order II. Berries oblong. 
 Sub-order A. Berries green. 
 Leonhardia viridis. Peculiar in habit ; strong vegetation. 
 Sub-order B. Berries blackish blue. 
 HlubecUa fertilis. Distinguished by particular fertility. 
 
 ' See description in chapter on " The Palatinate. " 
 
lo INDIGENOUS VINES. [chap. 
 
 On comparing tlie fructiferous hermaphrodite flowers of the 
 wild vines with those of the cultivated varieties, no particular 
 difference can be observed. The shapes of their leaves are 
 also very analogous. The great difference between them ap- 
 pears in the bunches of grapes. Not a single bunch of grapes 
 has been met with which could be said to be similar to or 
 identical with any variety of the cultivated grapes of the 
 Rhine valley. If the wild vines were degenerated seedlings 
 of cultivated races, some at least amongst them might be 
 expected to show the characters of the parent stock. A few 
 indeed showed some similarity to known varieties in single 
 parts, such as the leaves (see Gockia crescentifolia above) ; but 
 in such a case the fruit differed completely. 
 
 On comparison of the habitual varieties of wild vines of the 
 Rhine valley, it is found that the differences of external 
 shape and intrinsic quality are very numerous, and concern 
 the leaves, the flowers, and the fruit. The grapes are mostly 
 black, and amongst many thousands of plants only three were 
 found bearing white fruit. Of these one had acid, the other 
 moderately sweet fruit ; the third bore the delicious orange- 
 flavoured grapes. The bunches of the two first white varieties 
 were loose, pendulous, and carried long small berries ; the 
 orange-flower vine had bunches with densely placed grapes. 
 Among the black varieties some bore very small bunches, 
 not exceeding an inch in length. Others reached 2, 3, 4, and 
 5 inches, and thus became more like cultivated races. Most 
 common were the black grapes of oval shape ; all these were 
 ranged under the generic name of Palatina. 
 
 The shapes of the leaves also differed greatly. The Tiled- 
 folia had the perfectly undivided leaf which is most commonly 
 seen on the vigorous shoots of the American Vitis labrnsca. 
 Starting from this, there were progressively found all kinds 
 and degrees of divisions of the leaf up to seven lobes ; and a 
 complete splitting up of the vegetable membrane into teeth. 
 This leaf reminded of the parsley-leaved royal muscadine, but 
 the grape of this vine was black. The leaves of some varieties 
 were kidney-shaped, others three-lobed, others five-lobed. 
 The bays between the lobes were more or less developed. 
 
l] nERIVATION OF VINES, . 1 1 
 
 Some leaves had no teeth on their margins, others had strongly 
 serrate .margins, and amongst these latter the Nodchia macros 
 phylla was most conspicuous. 
 
 In Upper and Lower Austria, particularly between Vienna 
 and Presburg, there grow many wild vines on the shores of 
 the Danube. Jaquin, in an article in the Austrian "Annals 
 of Agriculture," showed years ago that there were growing 
 on the islands in the Danube large numbers of wild vines 
 bearing small grapes.. Similar vines appear below Buda, and 
 extend to Transylvania. The borders of the Theiss are 
 enlivened by their presence; the Save, when it issues from 
 Croatia, waters many plants of this kind. On the Adige, in 
 the Tyrol, there are some jungles formed by wild vines 
 which creep over low shrubs of Rhus.cotinus and wild fig- 
 trees. In the valley from Milan to Roveredo and Trient there 
 are no wild vines whatever, but they appear where the Adige 
 leaves the mountains and runs through a low mar.shy country. 
 
 From the foregoing, it is evident that all those European 
 countries which possess the climatic conditions, have in their 
 flora many species of the genus Vitis in a wild state, with 
 such botanical characters as leave no doubt that the plants 
 are indigenous, produced by natural selection, and not de- 
 rived from imported cultivated races of vines, or degenerated 
 by natural selection from previously cultivated races, the 
 products of artificial crossing or human selection. 
 
 ■ PROBABLE DERIVATION OF CULTIVATED VINES FROM 
 INDIGENOUS VARIETIES. 
 
 , Each particular district producing a particular kind of 
 well-characterized wine, does so by means of particular 
 well-characterized varieties of vines. These vines must be 
 either indigenous to these districts or be produced in them 
 by natural or artificial selection from indigenous varieties : 
 for when transplanted to other districts they change their 
 character more or less, so as to produce a different wine ; or 
 they lose their peculiarities so completely as to be worthless 
 for making wine ; or they cease to be fructiferous ; or, lastly, 
 they do not succeed at. all, and pine and die out. 
 
12 DERIVATION OF CULTIVATED [chap. 
 
 The " aramont " is commonly grown about Montpellier on 
 account of its extraordinary fertility. Its bunches are large, 
 its grapes of the size of nuts. Transplanted to the south of 
 Germany,! the aramont begins to bear in the fourth year, and 
 produces many and large bunches of grapes. But year by" 
 year its fertility decreases, and its berries become smaller, until 
 the viticulturist is obliged to remove the barren plants. 
 
 Austria possesses four peculiar vines whicTi are probably 
 indigenous to the banks of the Danube. They are described 
 by Burger ^ as follows : — 
 
 Plinia rubrivenia, the "Rothgipfler" of Upper Austria, 
 is a vine with very dark foliage, the ribs, nerves, and points of 
 which are red. At first sight it resembles the " Traminer," 
 but its grapes are green. 
 
 Plinia austriaca, the green " Muscateller " of Upper, 
 Austria, is one of the most fertile vines in existence. Its 
 bunches are large and bear small, greenish-yellow grapes. 
 It is not cultivated in other parts of Austria. 
 
 Virgilia austriaca, or " the white one of Grinzing " (a 
 village near Vienna), is only met with in the country round 
 Vienna, where it is cultivated after the head-knob fashion. 
 
 Herera austriaca, or "red Zierifandler " of Voslau, is cul- 
 tivated only in the valley between Vienna and Baden, and 
 not to any great extent. Its grape is -light red, and is said 
 to yield good wine. Bronner, who had become acquainted 
 with these varieties, and particularly the fertility of the green 
 muscateller, planted some vines of all four varieties in his 
 vineyard at Wiesloch. During ten years he did net obtain a 
 single grape from any of them, and after ten further years 
 all the vines had died out. 
 
 The vines of Europe transplanted to North America do not 
 succeed. Viticulture in that country is only possible with 
 indigenous varieties or their crosses. 
 
 American vines, which yield good wine in the United 
 States, when grown in the Gironde, degenerate, and yield 
 no drinkable wine. M. Boucherot, of Carbonnieux, near 
 
 1 Bronner, Die wilden Trauben, &c., p. 32. 
 
 2 Burger, Joh., Oesterreich. Trauben. Wien, 1837. 
 
I.] FROM INDIGENOUS VINES. 13 
 
 Bordeaux, has made this experience by plantations on a 
 large scale, and it is from himself that we have ascertained 
 the circumstance. 
 
 The Riessling vine, transplanted to Portugal, is said to yield 
 the "Bucellas" wine. Nobody would recognize Riessling in 
 " Bucellas ;" and if the common report of this transplantation 
 (which, however, generally only refers to the "hock-grape") 
 be correct, it proves that this vine so alters its character 
 in the southern climate as to give an altogether different 
 product. 
 
 Sherry is to a large extent made from a grape called the 
 Pedro Ximenes, said to have been brought to Spain from the 
 banks of the Moselle by the man whose name it bears. If 
 this really be as related (and in view of the undetermined 
 nature of the vines we reserve our judgment), this vine could 
 only be the Albuelis or Elbling. In sherry, this ingredient can 
 be as little recognized as any sherry-flavour can be discovered 
 in Moselle. If the Pedro Ximenes is the transplanted Elbling, 
 its fruit offers completely altered characters. 
 
 The vines of the Alto Douro differ in specific botanical 
 character from all other vines, as port-wine differs from other 
 wine. The Gironde produces the peculiar red wines by means 
 of its carbenet, carmenere, malbec, and verdot. Transplanted 
 to Spain, these vines do not produce claret any longer; 
 in a climate less warm and less moist these vines so lose 
 their fertility as to cease to be remunerative objects of 
 agriculture. 
 
 What we intend here to show as a general proposition, 
 illustrated by a number of striking examples, the reader can 
 further examine in the course of his perusal of the topo- 
 graphical description of later chapters. Every uniform climatic 
 region has its peculiarly adapted varieties of (wild and) 
 cultivated vines, which cannot be so successfully cultivated in 
 other regions, or cannot be cultivated at all anywhere else. 
 But many varieties of vine, generally those of no particular 
 qualities for wine-making, can be grown in a variety of dis- 
 tricts, although, in that case even it is necessary that these 
 districts should have some climatic features in common. 
 
14 FOSSIL VINE AND GRAPES. [chap.i. 
 
 FOSSIL VINE AND GRAPES. 
 
 The botanical argument contained in the foregoing 
 pages appears to be almost fncontestatble, but its result, is 
 happily raised to absolute certainty by the testimony of 
 rocks. This testimony proves that the wild Vine existed 
 certainly in Germany, and perhaps also in Bohemia 
 and Tuscany, during the tertiary, and before the basaltic 
 period. At Salzhausen, in Hesse - Darmstadt north of 
 the Maine, there is a mine of so-called brown-coal or 
 lignite. The shaft by which thfe coal is reached passes 
 through i8o feet of solid basalt rock. The lignite fills a 
 basifi in tertiary strata, and consists of a great variety of 
 decayed timber, shrubwood, and leaves imbedded in a clayey 
 material. It is evident, from the nature of the bed and the 
 arrangement of the lignite, that most of the wood and 
 leaves have been produced on the spot, which was a jungle 
 and morass, while another and smaller proportion of the 
 lignite has been imported by the rivulet of a small valley. 
 During the basaltic period this entire region became covered 
 by a stream of lava, which at the particular spot of the shaft 
 of the mine is about i8o feet thick. Now this lava belongs 
 to the latest basaltic eruptions of that marvellous volcanic 
 region, theVogelsberg (mountain of birds), which rises to 
 a height of 2,200 feet above the level of the sea. In the 
 attempt to estimate the age of these formations, science 
 experiences many difficulties, which we need not discuss, 
 but "it enables us to say that a hundred thousand years 
 would be the shortest period which must have elapsed since 
 the upheaving of these phonolithic and basaltic mountains. 
 How many thousand years before this must have vegetated 
 the vine in the jungle covered by the lava, can be approxi- 
 mately determined. For the geological data upon which 
 such calculations can be based, We refer the reader to the 
 essay of Tasche, in the Transactions of the Caroline Academy 
 of Sciences. 
 
 The lignites of Salzhausen are mostly used for fuel, 
 but there are portions of them which exclusively serve, the 
 
Fic 6 Impressions of leaves of the Fossil Vine (l^i/i's ieutonka) on bloclts of lignite from 
 
 Salzhausen. On the right, at the top of the page, fossil raisin stones are figured. 
 
• l6 FOSSIL VINE AND GRAPES. [cHAP. 
 
 higher purposes of science. These are laid aside by the 
 miners, dried slowly to prevent their Assuring, and then split 
 up by means of knives and chisels into thin plates. On the 
 cleavage surfaces a great variety of impressions of leaves 
 appear, among them peculiar oak-leaves resembling the 
 Mexican evergreen varieties, species of smilax and anona, 
 leaves of carya (a walnut-like tree) and its nuts, the small 
 fruit of a pistacia, and the broad beautiful leaves of a fig- 
 tree, with here and there the impression of a half-grown fig. 
 Interspersed with these, or in separate layers, are found 
 the impressions of the leaves of the fossil vine {Vitis 
 teutonicd). These leaves are of the size of medium vine- 
 leaves, have stalks, and at their base are mostly unequally 
 cordate, one side preponderating in size over the other. 
 They are mostly imperfectly divided into five lobes, of 
 which the anterior three lobes are more developed and 
 pointed than the two posterior ones. The margins of the 
 leaves are unequally dentated. 
 
 These leaves were formerly believed to belong to a species 
 of acer,^ but subsequently correctly interpreted by A. Braun 
 as those of a vine. This diagnosis was particularly supported 
 by the discovery of large quantities of seeds of berry-fruit, 
 which, as the engraving shows, have great similarity to the 
 seeds of Cissus and Vitis fruit. This similarity is so great 
 that two years before the publication of Braun's memoir 
 (1845), one of us, having incorporated a number of these 
 seeds with his geological collection, labelled them "fossil 
 raisin-stones." Some of the Salzhausen fruit-coal now in our 
 possession represents a regular cake of murk ; that is to say, 
 a compressed mass of kernels and membranes, the residues 
 of husks. Here and there indications of stalks are seen. 
 There being no other variety of Cissus or Vitis met with 
 in the lignite, we conclude that the Vitis-leaves and the seeds 
 of the berry fruit come from the same plant. 
 
 Unger believes that the same kind of Vitis also occurs in 
 lignite at Bilin in Bohemia, and states that the leaves 
 
 1 See Unger, F., Sylloge Plaiitarum fossilium. Denkach. rl. k. Akad. d, W. : 
 Wien, l86r, vol. xix. 
 
I-] 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION. 
 
 17 
 
 greatly resemble the leaves of Ampellopsis trku'spidata, fronj 
 Japan. 
 
 Gaudin (" M6m. sur quelques Gisements des Feuilles foss. 
 de la Toscane") describes several species of Ampellideae, and 
 amongst them the Vitis Ausonics. This is no doubt a fossil 
 vine ; but as the leaves are much mutilated, it cannot at 
 present be determined whether it is identical with, or 
 different from, the Vitis Teutonica. 
 
 THE GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE VINE ON THE 
 NORTHERN HEMISPHERE. 
 
 The climatic conditions for the success of the vine are on 
 the northern hemisphere united in a belt of territory enclosed 
 
 Fig. 7. — Polar and equatorial limits of the culture of the Vine in Europe and Asia. 
 
 between two lines, the northern of which we call the polar limit 
 of the cultivation of the vine, and the southern the equatorial 
 limit. The polar limit commences north of the Azores, 
 keeps to the south of England without touching that country, 
 enters France at Vannes in Br6tagne, runs upon Mazi^res, 
 and goes thence past Alen^on and Beauvais. It then runs 
 more northward, including a portion of Rhenish Prussia, pass- 
 ing to the north of Thuringia and the valley of the Saale 
 
 c 
 
I8 GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION. [chap. 
 
 to the north of Saxony, particularly of Dresden, and then 
 runs across the Carpathians, through South Russia, almost 
 in a straight line to the northern end of the Caspian Sea. 
 Thence it proceeds in a straight line to the Amoor, and 
 somewhat to the north of the southern bends of that river, 
 ending in the Pacific Ocean. The equatorial limit begins near 
 the equator in the Atlantic Ocean, and includes the Canary 
 Islands and all the islands lying near the African and 
 Spanish coast. It then enters Africa at about the 30th 
 degree of northern latitude, and running nearly upon, though 
 a little to the north of that degree, it leaves Africa at the 
 middle of the Isthmus of Suez ; runs across Arabia and the 
 Persian Sea, enters India near the 25th degree of northern 
 latitude, and then describes a loop running downwards in 
 Hindostan itself, nearly parallel to its sea borders ; so 
 that the whole interior of Hindostan is comprised in 
 it, while the whole sea-board is excluded. It then passes 
 again to the north, excluding all the land within several 
 hundred miles from the sea-board, and passes into China, 
 to terminate at the eastern end of it, on the 27th degree 
 of northern latitude. We have termed these the limits of 
 the culture of the vine, for the vine grows very well to the 
 north of this belt, though its fruit never ripens unless in 
 exceptional situations, or by means of special protections. 
 To the south of the equatorial limits also the vine does yet 
 grow, but it loses its best qualities by becoming an evergreen, 
 on which all stages of growth are represented at the same 
 time ; and under those circumstances it is unable to mature 
 the fruit in the same manner and perfection as when it is 
 subject to the rotation of the seasons. 
 
 The parallels, or means of the limits of the culture of the 
 vine, do not coincide with any isothermal lines, for the vine 
 requires not a certain high average temperature of the year, 
 but a maximum of summer heat, without which the fruit does 
 not ripen. There are many places in the viticultural belt, the 
 average temperature of which is far below that of England, 
 and yet they produce excellent wine. England does not 
 produce wine because, although its average temperature is 
 
I.] MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. 19 
 
 very high, its maximum summer heat is not high enough 
 to ripen the grape. This is no doubt due to the circum- 
 stance that the large masses of water vapour which constantly 
 pervade the air over Britain, prevent the rays of the sun froni 
 striking the soil with that effect which is required. 
 
 The cultivation of the vine in America is included, appa- 
 rently, between similar limits. North of the 50th degree of 
 latitude the indigenous American vines cannot be cultivated. 
 The scuppernong does not succeed north of the Potomac, and 
 the indigenous vines apparently do not pass south of the 
 centre of Mexico. 
 
 We have not as yet any exact map showing the extent of 
 the cultivation of the vine in the southern hemisphere. Peru 
 produces wine ; and so do South Africa (Cape of Good 
 Hope) and Australia. How far, however, the cultivation of 
 the vine in these districts extends geographically is at present 
 not exactly known. 
 
 MINERAL CONSTITUENTS OF THE VINE. 
 
 The mineral constituents of the vine are extracted from 
 the soil by the roots, and variously distributed in the 
 plant. An exact knowledge of these is of the greatest im- 
 portance to the viticulturist, as it enables him to adapt 
 his soil to the necessities of the plant in the most perfect 
 and economical manner, and thus to ensure the greatest 
 possible production of grapes and wine. The mineral con- 
 stituents of the vine are obtained as ashes by the combustion 
 of its several parts. For the purposes of exact science, this 
 incineration has to be effected with great care ; the several 
 parts have to be cleaned without being washed, and then to 
 be dried at the temperature of boiling water to expel all 
 moisture. The residue is weighed, and its proportion to the 
 quantity of expelled water determined. It is then carefully 
 burned in platinum vessels, and placed in the red-hot compart- 
 ments (so-called muffles) of a furnace with a strong draught 
 until a white ash is obtained. This ash consists of a part 
 which is soluble in water, and of another which is insoluble. 
 
 c 2 
 
20 MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. [chap. 
 
 The soluble part comprises the alkali metals, potassium and 
 sodiurri, combined with carbonic acid, sulphuric acid, and 
 chlorine; while the insoluble part contains calcium, magne- 
 sium, iron, and manganese, combined with carbonic, phosphoric, 
 and silicic acid. These various substances are separated from 
 each other by the special proceedings of analytical chemistry. 
 It is thus found that the vine contains the same kinds of 
 mineral ingredients as most other vegetables, but in different 
 proportions. The proportions in the ash of the vine of alkalies 
 to earths are about equal ; and again, the united weight of 
 these bases is about equal to, and sometimes exceeds some- 
 what the half of, the weight of the entire ash. Different vines 
 yield different proportions of ash, but vines of the same kind, 
 in full development and at the same period of vegetation, 
 yield very similar proportions of ash. The ashes of the 
 various, parts of the vine,, of leaves, branches, wood, and 
 roots, differ from each other in a very striking manner. 
 
 Many researches ^ have shown that the ripe woody canes of 
 the year's growth, at the termination of the vegetative period, 
 i.e. during the winter, contain from one-fourth to one-fifth 
 of their weight of moisture, or 25 to 20 per cent., and from 
 2'2 to 4'2 per cent, of ash. The older wood contains about 
 the same proportion, but the roots contain a little more. 
 The distribution of the mineral constituents in the various 
 parts of the vine, at the period of the maturity of the grapes, 
 is shown by the table on the opposite page. 
 
 In the first-named six parts the moisture was expelled at 
 100", in the last seven at 1 10° C. 
 
 We thus perceive that the various organs of the vine assimi- 
 late different quantities and qualities of mineral matter. The 
 leaves yield the greatest amount of ash, and the old wood 
 and the ripe grapes the smallest. It is further observed that 
 the less mineral matter a part contains, the greater is in that 
 ash the proportion of soluble salts. The ash of the leaves is 
 
 1 Boussingault, Ann. Chim. Phys. (3) 30, 369 ; De Vergnette, Bullet, de la Soc. 
 d'Encourag., 1849, pp. 391, 468, 537; Hmschauer, Ann. Chem. Pharm. 54, 331 ; 
 Walz (quoted by Mulder); Berthier, Ann. Chim. Phys. (3) 33, 249, and Chimie 
 agricole ; Crasso, Ann, Chem. Pharm. 57, 59, 63, 67 ; Levi, Ann. Chem. Pharm. 
 5b, 421. 
 
.1-3 
 
 MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. 
 
 the highest absolute amount of ash yielded by any organ, £Lnd 
 it contains the lowest percentage of soluble salts amongst all 
 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 of 
 moisture 
 
 lost 
 by drying. 
 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 Per cent. 
 
 Soluble ' 
 
 Nature of the Organ. 
 
 Per cent, 
 of ash. 
 
 of ' 
 soluble 
 
 of 
 insoluble 
 
 salts in 
 100 parts- 
 
 
 
 salts. 
 
 salts. 
 
 of ash. 
 
 Capillary root .... 
 
 63 
 
 6-0 
 
 06 
 
 5'4 
 
 100 
 
 Root 3 to 4 years old , . 
 
 47 
 
 2-8. 
 
 0-4 
 
 2-4 
 
 14-2 
 
 Sunk cane, recently buried 
 
 45 
 
 3-0 
 
 0-4 
 
 2-6 
 
 i3'3 
 
 Wood of old trunk . . 
 
 47 
 
 2-6 
 
 0'3 
 
 2' 3 
 
 n'S • 
 
 One year's wood . . . . 
 
 S3 
 
 2-8 
 
 0-37 
 
 2-43 
 
 13-2 
 
 Pith 
 
 86 
 
 7-5 
 
 0-6 
 
 6-9 
 
 8'o 
 
 I^eaves 
 
 68 
 
 117 
 
 0-7 
 
 ii-o 
 
 5"9 
 
 Grape-stalks 
 
 66 
 
 6-0 
 
 0-4 
 
 5-6 
 
 6-6 
 
 Opaque green grape . . 
 
 65 
 
 50 
 
 0-6 
 
 4-4 
 
 120 
 
 Transparent do. . . 
 
 70 
 
 27 
 
 o'5 
 
 22 
 
 i8-s 
 
 Ripe grape 
 
 72 
 
 2-6 
 
 0-4 
 
 2-2 
 
 15-3 
 
 Skin of grape .... 
 
 — 
 
 4-8 
 
 03 
 
 4-5 
 
 6-2 
 
 Stones of grape . .... 
 
 25 
 
 37 
 
 0'2 
 
 2-5 
 
 7'4 , 
 
 the specimens of ash enumerated. The half-ripe grapes, on 
 the other hand, contain a very low percentage, of ash, and in 
 this the maximum percentage of soluble salts enumerated in 
 the last column. The leaves and wood are rich in potassium 
 salts, while the bark contains much calcium carbonate. The 
 •pith and stones are rich in phosphate of calcium (De Vergnetle). 
 The ash of the canes, of the murk, and of a litre of wine 
 from one and the same vine, examined by Boussingault in 
 1848, yielded the following quantities of ingredients : — 
 
 Elements contained in the Ash. 
 
 Ash of canes 
 . in. per cents. 
 
 Ash of murk 
 in per cents. 
 
 Ash of 1 litre 
 
 of wine 
 in grammes. 
 
 Potash 
 
 Soda 
 
 Lime 
 
 Magnesia 
 
 Oxide of iron and alumina . 
 
 Phosphoric acid 
 
 Sulphuric acid 
 
 Chlorine 
 
 Carbonic acid 
 
 Sand and little silica . . . 
 Loss 
 
 180 
 0-2 
 
 27-3 
 61 
 
 3-8 
 
 104 
 
 1-6 
 
 O'l 
 
 20-3 
 
 lo-g 
 1-3 
 
 369 
 04 
 
 107 
 2-2 
 
 3-4 
 107 
 
 5 '4 
 
 04 
 
 124 
 
 153 
 2 '2 
 
 0-842 
 
 0-092 
 0-172 
 
 0-412 
 0-096 
 traces 
 0-250 
 0-006 
 
 Totals . . . 
 
 1000 
 
 lOO-O 
 
 I -870 
 
22 MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. [chap. 
 
 The canes had yielded 2-44 per cent, of ash, and the murk, 
 air-dry, 665 ; i litre of wine had given 1-870 grammes of ash, 
 or O'lg per cent. ; the density of the wine assumed as 0-960. 
 It is clear that the ash of the canes contains less potash and 
 more lime than that of the murk, and that the proportion 
 of potash to lime is highest in the ash of the wine. Thus 
 we have per cent, of potash contained in ash of canes 1 8'0, 
 murk 36-9, wine 45 o; per cent, of lime contained in ash of 
 canes 27-3, murk 107, wine 4-9. But the relations of 
 magnesia in those parts are different from those of potash and 
 lime, for the percentage of magnesia contained in ash of canes 
 is 6' I, murk 2'2, wine 9-2. The wine yields a very small 
 percentage of ash compared to the other parts, and in conse- 
 quence its percentage of alkalies is smaller than that of any 
 other part of the vine ; but as it has lost much mineral 
 matter during fermentation, the quantity of its ash is not the 
 measure of the quantity of mineral matter removed by it 
 from the soil : for this determination, the murk, before fermen- 
 tation, has to be examined. 
 
 It is of interest to ascertain the amount of mineral matter 
 which a fruit-bearing branch of one summer's growth con- 
 tains. Berthier analysed such a branch, cut from a Gamay 
 vine at Nemours, in October 1850, at the time of the vintage. 
 Cane and leaves were examined together, but separately 
 from the grapes. 
 
 The dry branch and leaves weighed 450 grammes. 
 The grapes weighed . . . 70 ,, 
 
 The branch yielded ash consisting of — 
 
 Alkaline salts, 6 '20 grammes, or i "38 per cent. 
 Earthy salts 20-30 „ or 4 '52 „ 
 
 Total ash 26-50 „ or 5-90 „ 
 
 The grapes yielded ash containing — 
 
 Alkaline salts . i -56 grammes, or 2 '25 per cent. 
 Earthy salts .1-40 ,, or 1-95 „ 
 
 Total ash . 2-96 ,, or 4-20 ,, 
 
 The branch and leaves therefore contained 9 times as much 
 
MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. 
 
 23 
 
 inorganic matter, 4 times as much alkaline salts, 14 times as 
 much earthy salts, and 6 to 7 times as much phosphates as 
 the grapes. 
 
 The raisin stones contain about 2 per cent, of ash, and 
 of this quantity one-half is phosphate of calcium. 
 
 The leaves in full vegetation contain about 75 per 
 cent, of water, and 2-i per cent, of ash ; therefore ash in 
 the dry residue 8-4 per cent. Of this ash one-half is 
 carbonate of calcium, or 51 percent, and 15-3 percent, is 
 phosphate of calcium. The soluble potassium salts, ob- 
 tained as sulphate and carbonate, amount to 15 per cent, 
 of the ash. 
 
 Leaves at the time of the fall contain only 66 per cent, 
 of moisture, and 11-34 per cent, of ash, or about 34-02 per 
 cent, of the dry residue. In this ash the carbonate of calcium 
 is increased to 62-62 per cent., the phosphate decreased to 
 13-27 per cent, and soluble potassium salts diminished to 
 8-82 per cent of the ash. The relations of the ash and its 
 soluble constituents in the entire branch to the quantities 
 contained in living and dead leaves are well shown by the 
 following table of Berthier : — 
 
 Organ. 
 
 Ash in 100 
 parts, dry. 
 
 Amount of 
 alkaline salts. 
 
 Amount of 
 earthy salts. 
 
 Branch with leaves .... 
 
 Living leaves 
 
 Dead leaves 
 
 8-4 
 11-34 
 
 1-38 
 1-26 
 I'OO 
 
 4-52 
 
 7-14 
 
 10-34 
 
 Therefore, as the vegetating organs get older the absolute 
 amount of their ash increases ; but this increase consists 
 in the accession of earthy salts only, while the amount of 
 alkaline salts is actually diminishing. 
 
 To be complete, we must now study the mineral matters of 
 ripe grapes, and of must. 100 parts of chasselas, grown near 
 Paris, were found by Berthier to contain — 
 
 In these ash 
 
 Stalks 4'2 
 
 Murk . . . .22-0 
 
 Filtered juice . . . .73-8 
 
 0-06 or I -431 per cent. 
 o-ii or 0-500 ,, 
 
 0-194 or 0-263 >) 
 
24 MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. [CHAP. 
 
 These specimens of ash had the following composition : — 
 
 Alkali salts . 
 Calcium phosphate 
 Do. carbonate 
 Magnesium do. 
 
 Totals 
 
 Stalks. 
 
 Murk. 
 
 Juice. 
 
 0'020 
 
 o-o6o 
 
 o-ioa 
 
 0-OI4 
 
 o'o30 
 
 0047 
 
 0'026 
 
 0'0I2 
 
 0035 
 
 — 
 
 0008 
 
 0012 
 
 0060 O'lio 0'I94 
 
 Consequently the 100 parts of the bunch of grapes contained — r 
 
 Alkali salts . O'iSo 
 
 Calcium phosphate . . . . . . . . O'ogi 
 
 Do. carbonate .... ... 0073 , 
 
 Magnesium do. ........ 0'020 
 
 Total 0364 
 
 100 parts of "pinot noir" (Burgundy grape) contained — 
 
 In these ash 
 
 Stalks 3-6 o-o6o or 17 per cent. 
 
 Murk 24 'O OM 10 or 46 „ 
 
 Filtered juice .... 72^4 0-298 or 0-40 „ 
 
 The ash in each part had the following composition : — 
 
 Stalks. Murk. Juice. 
 
 Alkali salts 0020 o'o6 01 54 
 
 Calcium phosphate . . . 0'0i4 003 0^072 
 
 Dp. and magnesium carbonate . 0026 0'02 0^072 
 
 Totals . . . O'o6o oil 0'298 
 
 Consequently the entire bunch contained in loo parts — 
 
 Alkali salts ......... o'234 
 
 Calcium phosphate . . . . . . . .on5 
 
 Do. and magnesium carbonate o-ii8 
 
 Total 0468 
 
 The quantities of ash found in these analyses of grapes 
 are much smaller than those which we have assumed in the 
 above comparative table after Vergnette. We have no doubt 
 that the smaller figures approach the quantities more com- 
 monly met with. Thus Bouchardat examined several speci- 
 mens of grape-juice, and never found in them more than 0-067 
 per cent, of potash, and sometimes as little as 0'045 per cent. 
 Crasso found in the j'uice of a ripe bunch of grapes 0*326 per 
 cent, of ash, and in that of an unripe one 0-37 1 per cent. He 
 
I.] 
 
 MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. 
 
 2S 
 
 also examined the four varieties of must as to their ash, and 
 found it to have the following composition : — 
 
 Matters contained in 
 the Ash. 
 
 Must I. 
 From unripe 
 black grapes. 
 
 Must 2. 
 
 From ripe 
 
 black grapes. 
 
 Must 3. 
 
 From ripe 
 
 black grapes. 
 
 Must 4. 
 
 From ripe 
 
 white grapes. ' 
 
 Potash . . . 
 Soda .... 
 Lime . . . 
 Magnesia . . 
 Iron oxide . . 
 Manganese oxide 
 Sulphuric acid . 
 Chlorine , . . 
 Silica . . . 
 Phosphoric acid 
 
 
 66-334 
 0-329 
 5-204 
 3-276 
 0-729 
 0-820 
 5-194 
 0-745 
 1-991 
 
 15-378 
 
 65-043 
 0-423 
 3-374 
 4-736 
 0-427 
 0-747 
 
 5-544 
 
 1-029 
 
 2099 
 
 16-578 
 
 71-852 
 1-205 
 3-392 
 
 3-97J 
 0091 
 0098 
 
 3-654 
 
 0-474 
 
 7-190 
 
 14-073 
 
 62-745 ■ 
 
 2-659 
 
 5-III 
 
 3-956 
 
 0-403 
 
 0-305 
 
 4-895 
 
 0-700 
 
 2-182 
 17-044 
 
 
 100 000 
 
 100-000 
 
 100-000 
 
 lOO'OOO 
 
 Density at i6° C. 
 
 
 I 060 
 
 1-085 
 
 1-080 
 
 1-065 
 
 The must Nos. i, 2, and 3 were from the small variety of 
 the Burgundy grape, or pinot ; the must No. 4 came from 
 grapes of the Sylvaner. In the latter occur the maximum of 
 soda and the minimum of potash observed in the series. 
 The quantity of potash in the ash of the juice amounts to 
 about two-thirds of the weight of the entire ash. In the 
 stones of the grapes from which these specimens of juice were 
 obtained no soda at all was met with. Phosphoric acid, 
 amounting to about 16 per cent, in the ash of the must, was 
 found in the ash of the stones to amount to a mean of 24 per 
 cent. Manganese is present in all parts of the vine, and in 
 particularly large quantity in black grapes ; such grapes when 
 grown in soil deficient in manganese become less deeply 
 coloured. 
 
 There is no particular difference observable between the 
 ash of unripe and ripe grapes. But there is a distinct differ- 
 ence observable in the proportion of the several ingredients of 
 the ash of different species of vine. Thus Walz found in the 
 ash of two Traminer vines, the one grown at Deidesheim, the 
 other at Speyer, the mean of 13*65 per cent, of calcium- 
 phosphate ; while two Riessling vines from the same places 
 
26 
 
 INFLUENCE OF SOIL 
 
 [chap. 
 
 yielded the mean of 26"25 per cent, of calcium phosphate, and 
 two Rulander vines (grey variety of Pineau) gave the mean 
 of 26 per cent, of the same bone-earth. The ash of the 
 Traminer vines contained, however, about 10 per cent, more 
 of potash — namely, 3875 per cent. — than that of the other 
 vines, which in the mean contained only 28 per cent, of this 
 base. 
 
 INFLUENCE OF THE SOIL ON THE MINERAL CONSTI- 
 TUENTS OF THE VINE. 
 
 In his analyses of the ash of several varieties of vine grown 
 near Gratz in Styria, Hruschauer found that they all contained 
 the same qualities of ingredients, but in different proportions, 
 which seemed to be determined by the soil on which the vine 
 grew. The pure bases and acids actually obtained in his 
 analyses have been arranged in the following table : — 
 
 Ingredients of the Ash. 
 
 Quartz soil on | Chalky soil on 
 Middle Tertiary Devonian 
 Formation. Formation. 
 
 Alicaceous 
 Schist. 
 
 Potash 
 
 Soda 
 
 Lime 
 
 Magnesia 
 
 Iron oxide 
 
 Calcium sulphate 
 
 Phosphoric acid 
 
 Silica 
 
 Sodium chloride 
 
 34-13 
 
 7-59 
 
 30-28 
 
 4-66 
 
 o-i6 
 
 4-SS 
 
 16-35 
 
 0-83 
 
 24-93 
 
 7-00 
 35-94 
 
 7-12 
 
 024 
 4-02 
 
 19-55 
 o'62 
 
 0-58 
 
 26-41 
 
 8-57 
 
 3.1-78 
 
 9T6 
 
 0-19 
 
 4-13 
 
 16-87 
 
 2-48 
 
 0-41 
 
 loo-oo 
 
 100 '00 
 
 100 00 
 
 On calculating the quantity of oxygen in the bases it is 
 found to amount in No. i to I7'99 per cent. ; No. 2, to 18-81 
 per cent. ; No. 3, to 19-05 per cent. 
 
 These quantities of oxygen are practically equal to each 
 other. But the quantities of metals in the bases differ con- 
 siderably, particularly in potash, and magnesia, and lime. 
 A consideration of the law of equivalents shows that each 
 vine required in its ash as much base, or saturating power 
 for acid, as the other, but it used for that purpose different 
 
I.] 
 
 ON MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. 
 
 27 
 
 kinds of base — No. i taking more potash and less lime ; 
 No. 2 less potash and more lime ; No. 3 quantities of lime 
 and potash intermediate between the other t-wo. Now, as 
 the proportions between these bases found in the vine were 
 also found in the soil on which they grew, we have here, to 
 this extent, a proof of the dependence of the vine upon the 
 soil in which it is located. When the vine cannot find a par- 
 ticular kind of base which it ordinarily wants for its develop- 
 ment, it takes another instead ; it does not take a random 
 and uncertain quantity, but substitutes for the one which it 
 cannot have a chemical equivalent of that which happens to 
 be available, and by this means accomplishes the cycle of 
 its functions. 
 
 Levi established the same fact regarding a vine from the 
 vineyard of Liebfrauen at Worms, arid one from Weinsheim. 
 He found in — 
 
 Matters. 
 
 Liebfrauen Vine. 
 
 Weinsheim Vine. 
 
 Potash 
 
 Soda 
 
 17-547 
 
 26-762 
 
 28-902 
 
 9-173 
 
 0-392 
 
 9-130 
 
 3-439 
 4-048 
 1-607 
 
 25-314 
 
 38-823 
 7-483 
 
 3-623 
 
 16-813 
 
 4-936 
 
 0-869 
 
 Lime .... .... 
 
 Magnesia 
 
 Iron oxide 
 
 Iron phosphate 
 
 Phosphoric acid 
 
 Calcium sulphate . 
 
 Sodium chloride 
 
 Silica 
 
 JOOOOO 
 
 100-000 
 
 In these data the. quantities of oxygen contained in the 
 bases are 21-48 and 19-21. The coincidence of the dimi-. 
 nution of potash and lime, and the increase of soda in 
 the Liebfrauen vine, is remarkable. If the analyses of Bous- 
 singault and Crasso given above are subjected to a similar 
 calculation, it is found that the oxygen in the bases amounts, 
 in the analysis of Crasso, to 1871 ; in that of Boussingault 
 to 19-25. These figures approach each other so closely that 
 we are entitled to consider them as the expression of a lavu 
 
28 INFLUENCE OF SOIL. [chap. 
 
 of nature, according to which the ashes of the vine 'may contain 
 very variable quantities of potash, soda, lime, and magnesia ; 
 but the sum of the oxygen contained in these bases is always 
 the same, or at all events undergoes but slight variations, 
 showing that the substitution of one base for another takes 
 place in equivalent proportions. 
 
 The ash of the vine is obtained by the combustion of its 
 •parts; during this process the organic matters, witTi which the 
 bases or salts were in combination, are destroyed. Instead 
 of malates, tartrates, and tannates, we obtain in the ash car- 
 bonates of potash, soda, and lime ; and the carbonate of the 
 latter again yields its acid in high temperatures, and appears 
 as caustic lime. 
 
 To understand the part which the bases take in the organic 
 life of the vine, we must therefore consider them in their 
 combinations, such as they occur in the natural tissues and 
 juices. In these their main function may shortly be stated 
 to be the fixing and neutralization of acid nuclei, which, 
 under the reducing influence of light, and in the presence of 
 the elements of vegetable nutrition, water, carbonic acid, and 
 ammonia (from which these nuclei themselves have just been 
 formed)j are gradually developed to more complex bodies. 
 If these bases are not present in thfe soil in an accessible form, 
 the vine cannot grow at all ; if they are present in insufficient 
 amount, the growth of the vine is stunted, and its fertility is 
 impaired or suppressed ; if they are present in the soil in false 
 proportions, the vine effects a substitution, and is able to 
 accomplish the cycle of its changes. But it must not be sup- 
 posed that this necessity does not affect its growth, durability, 
 fertility, and the nature of its product ; on the contrary, it is 
 very probable that a large amount of failure in viticulture is 
 engendered by such a disproportion in the necessary mineral 
 constituents of the soil. Lastly, in soils where the vine finds 
 all the mineral ingredients in proper proportion and quantity, 
 it grows and bears with the greatest perfection. In this argu- 
 ment it is implied that the position, exposure, watering, and 
 mechanical conditions of the soil are equal (in every case), arid 
 that the sole variation refers to the mineral ingredients. 
 
I-] 
 
 MINERAL MATTER ABSTRACTED. 
 
 29 
 
 - AMOUNT OF MINERAL MATTER WHICH VITICULTURE 
 ABSTRACTS FROM THE SOIL. 
 
 Boussingault has calculated the weight of matters which 
 were removed from his vineyard (Schmalzberg, near Lam- 
 pertsloch, Alsatia, Bas-Rhin, an enclosed property of 170 acres' 
 surface) in the shape of canes, murk, and wine. 
 
 In 1848 he obtained from this vineyard 55-05 hectolitres of 
 wine. The murk weighed, air-dry, 492 kilos. ; loo parts of 
 this murk left 6-65 of ash, say 3272 kilos, for 492 kilos. 
 
 The cutting of the vines in the spring of 1 849 yielded 2,624 
 kilos, of canes or rods (in 1850 the same quantity within 100 
 kilos.) \ 100 parts of rods, burned in the state in which they 
 had been weighed, gave 2-44 parts of ash, say 64-03 kilos, 
 for the entire quantity of wood. Several kilogrammes of ash 
 were actually produced. 
 
 A litre of wine left 1-870 grammes of very white ash. The 
 particulars of the analyses of these specimens of ash we have 
 already related above. On referring the several quantities of 
 ingredients obtained to the whole of the vineyard, it is found 
 that in wood, murk, and wine the following quantities of 
 mineral matters are annually exported : — 
 
 , 
 
 Potash. 
 
 Soda. 
 
 Lime. 
 
 Magnesia. 
 
 Phosphoric 
 acid. 
 
 Sulphuric 
 acid. 
 
 In the canes . 
 ■ In the murk . . 
 In the wine . . 
 
 Totals 
 
 "•53 
 12-07 
 4-64 
 
 0-13 
 0-13 
 O'OO 
 
 17-48 
 3-50 
 0-51 
 
 3-91 
 072 
 
 0-9S 
 
 6-66 
 
 3-50 
 2-27 
 
 1-02 
 177 
 0-53 
 
 28-24 
 
 0-26 
 
 21-49 
 
 5-58 
 
 ,12-43 
 
 3-32 
 
 Calculated for an hectare, this gives a total annual expor- 
 tation of — 
 
 Potash 
 
 Soda 
 
 Lime 
 
 Kilos. 
 
 
 Kilos 
 
 1 6 '42 
 
 Magnesia . 
 
 • 3-24 
 
 o-iS 
 
 Phosphoric acid 
 
 . 7-28 
 
 12-49 
 
 Sulphuric acid . 
 
 • 1-93 
 
 Now, whereas from an hectare there is removed by a crop 
 of potatoes 63 kilos, alkalies, 14 kilas. phosphoric acid, 
 
30 CHEMICAL DEVELOPMENT. [chap. 
 
 of beetroot 90 and 12, of wheat with straw 27 and 19, it 
 is clear that viticulture abstracts much less mineral matter 
 from the soil than root or cereal crops, and that, therefore, 
 the vine can still be cultivated on land on which the other 
 crops would no longer yield remunerative harvests. 
 
 It is of course different if during the progress of viticulture 
 green branches with leaves are removed from the vineyards, as 
 is not rarely done in viticultural districts for the purpose of 
 feeding domestic herbivorous animals. In these cases greater 
 quantities of mineral matters are exported, and have to be 
 entered into the calculation. 
 
 Vergnette calculates that on the C6ted' Or an hectare of land 
 supports about 25,700 vines ; these produce annually about 
 11,462 kilos, of wood, leaves, and grapes, which, burned toge- 
 ther, would leave 356 kilos, of ash, containing 69' 40 kilos, 
 of soluble and 286'60 kilos, of insoluble salts. If we deduct the 
 leaves,' and with them a large percentage of ash, including 
 more than half the soluble salts, we come to figures approach- 
 ing those of Boussingault. 
 
 ORGANIC INGREDIENTS AND CHEMICAL DP:VEI.OPMENT 
 OF THE VINE. 
 
 The seed of the vine contains within itself all organic and 
 inorganic compounds, which, with the aid of water, air, and 
 warmth, are capable of producing a young plant consisting of 
 a root with fibrils and spongioles, and a little stalk with leaves. 
 These ingredients of the seed are lignine, which builds up its 
 woody structures, then starch, tannic acid, fatty oil, several 
 albuminous substances, and the mineral salts already referred 
 to, in which phosphoric acid and potash predominate. As soon 
 as by the aid of these materials the organs of assimilation and 
 excretion have been constructed, the young plant becomes 
 independent of the nourishment of the seed, which is indeed 
 exhausted, and draws its supplies from earth and air. These 
 materials are all of an inorganic nature, and are the following: 
 
 Carbonic acid gas.- — This is taken up by the roots in solution 
 in water, and by the leaves as gas from the air. It is the 
 
I.J CHEMICAL DEVELOPMENT. 31 
 
 material from which the vine forms all its Carbonaceous con- 
 stituents. 
 
 Ammonia. — This body is mainly taken up by the roots 
 from the soil, in which it is always present, owing to its 
 being a normal constituent of rain-water. It is the material 
 from which the vine forms all its nitrogenized ingredients. 
 
 Water. — This is not only the carrier of all materials which 
 enter the roots in solution, but is also the source of much of 
 the hydrogen contained in the nitrogenized products, and the 
 source of all the hydrogen contained in the products free from 
 nitrogen. 
 
 In addition to these, the roots absorb the salts which 
 we have considered in the former section. As soon as 
 a sufficient supply of all these has collected in the cells and 
 vessels of the vegetable tissue, the specific process of vegetable 
 growth begins. This consists in the elimination of oxygen 
 from the carbonic acid, and the combination with the more 
 carbonized product of the elements of water. Thereby a 
 series of acids are formed, which from the beginning are 
 combined with the bases of the mineral ingredients, notably 
 potash and lime. In this manner carbonic acid is first trans- 
 formed into oxalic acid : this in the vine does not persist, as 
 it does in many other plants, such as rhubarb, sorrel, and 
 spinach ; but by the combination of two of its- particles, and 
 the substitution of some oxygen by hydrogen, malic acid, the 
 acid contained in apples and unripe grapes, is formed. This 
 malic acid, by a small addition of oxygen, is easily trans- 
 formed into tartaric acid, or, inversely, tartaric acid passes into 
 malic by the loss of oxygen. Tartaric acid again, by the 
 union of three of its particles, and the addition of hydrogen 
 from decomposed water, may easily be transformed into grape- 
 sugar, or similar hydro-carbons, just as inversely tartaric acid 
 can be obtained by the breaking up under the influence of 
 oxidizing agents of hydro-carbons, such as lactose, or sugar of 
 milk. It is probable that all the hydro-carbons, grape-sugar, 
 cellulose, cane-sugar, gum, and starch, which differ from each 
 other very little in chemical composition, and can mostly be 
 transformed the one into the other, are thus produced by the 
 
32 CHEMICAL DEVELOPMENT. [cHAP. 
 
 combination of simple chemical compounds and the elimi- 
 nation of oxygen. This process of reduction, as it is che- 
 inically termed, in contradistinction to the process in animals, 
 which consists mainly in the addition of oxygen to complex 
 bodies, and their consequent breaking up into simple ones, 
 the process of oxidation, is effected by the vegetable cells, 
 particularly of the leaves, under the influence of the rays of 
 the sun ; and it is certain that the green colouring matter or 
 chlorophyll, and a yellow ingredient, luteine, have an im- 
 ■ portant mediating share in these processes. These trans- 
 formations are most active during the time at which the sun's 
 rays have the highest chemical power, i.e. when it stands in the 
 meridian and its rays are most nearly vertical ; it is then that 
 the greatest amount of oxygen is exhaled by the leaves, and 
 the greatest amount of nutritive products elaborated within 
 their cells and vessels. The ammonia, in its turn, furnishes the 
 nitrogenized ingredients of the vine, as of plants in general. 
 We know less of the various stages of its metamorphosis and 
 combination in the vine than in other plants. But it is cer- 
 tain that its hydrogen is substituted variously, by methyl, for 
 example, and that it then occurs as tri-methylamine in wine. 
 It probably enters into combination with carbonaceous pro- 
 ducts in such a manner as to surrender its character as a 
 strong alkali ; the less complicated products may still retain 
 the characters of feeble alkalies (alkaloids), but the higher pro- 
 ducts, the albuminous bodies, are either neutral or feebly acid. 
 The presence of ammonia in the elementary juice of the vine, 
 the sap, has been proved by direct experiment. 
 
 When in this manner a plant has been formed from 
 a seed (or in any of the various ways to be described later), 
 it is not at once, and in the same year, able to reproduce fruit 
 and seed. Three entire seasons are mostly required for the 
 development of the roots and wood of the- plant to such a size 
 as to enable it to produce a ripe fruit. During these various 
 stages the following chemical compounds are met with in the 
 various parts and juices of the plant : — 
 
 The Sap. — The first fluid which rises in the canes at the 
 beginning of the spring is called sap. It is effused from any 
 
I.] 
 
 THE SAP OF VINES. 
 
 33 
 
 cut surface which is made upon any part of the vine, and from 
 the terminal cut surfaces of canes it sometimes runs in drops 
 in quick succession, like tears from the eyes of man. The 
 French and Germans therefore term it " tears," and the act of 
 its effusion the "weeping" of the vine. This fluid remains 
 clear on boiling, and does not pass into fermentation either by 
 itself or after sugar has been dis- 
 solved in it. A litre of it evaporated 
 leaves about 2"5 grms. of residue. 
 This contains a little acid potassium 
 tartrate, and perhaps gum and solu- 
 ble starch ; altogether, the organic 
 ingredients amount to about rg grm. 
 The remaining 0"6 grm. are inorganic 
 and form an alkaline ash, containing 
 lime, potash, and a trace of phosphoric 
 acid. When the sap is evaporated 
 after a few drops of hydrochloric acid 
 have been added to it, a colourless 
 deliquescent residue is obtained, 
 which, on addition of caustic lime, 
 immediately evolves ammonia. Pro- 
 bably it does not contain any albu- 
 minous matters. The sap therefore 
 is a very elementary material, con- 
 taining only matter necessary for the 
 formation of the first shoots. 
 
 The rising of the sap in the cane 
 takes place with an enormous force. 
 This was first measured by Stephen 
 Hales more than a century ago. He 
 fixed a bent glass tube to the cut-off 
 end of a vine-cane, and observed 
 that the effused sap rose in the tube 
 to the height of 21 fefet. On filling the glass tube with 
 mercury he observed that this was pressed up to the height 
 of, 22 inches. In April 1849 this experiment was repeated 
 by Mohr, upon the canes of a Chasselas or Gutedel. He 
 
 D 
 
 Fin. 8, 
 
 -Apparatu!; for measuring 
 the pressure of the rising sap. 
 
34 
 
 CHEMICAL INGREDIENTS. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 at first fixed glass tubes to the ends of the canes, but could 
 not carry them sufficiently high up in the air to prevent the 
 sap from overflowing. He thereupon used the little apparatus 
 figured in the engraving (Fig. 8), a glass bottle containing 
 mercury and water, and closed with a cork, through which two 
 tubes passed. With one, bent at right angles, the bleeding 
 end of the vine-cane was connected by caoutchouc tubing. 
 The other admitted of the rising of the mercury to a height 
 of above 30 inches. The apparatus having been fixed on 
 April 16, 1849, 3^t 9.30 A.M., the rise of the mercury in the 
 tube Was observed to take place as follows : — 
 
 Time. 
 9'4S A.M. 
 lOIO 
 10-30 
 II 
 
 11-30 
 12 
 12-43 I'.M. 
 
 Height of Hg. 1 
 
 I 
 
 inch. 
 
 3i4 
 
 inches. 
 
 4H 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 7A 
 
 
 7A 
 
 
 8A 
 
 
 Time. 
 
 Height of Hg 
 
 2-9 P.M. 
 
 1 1 inclies. 
 
 3-47 .. 
 
 12 ,, 
 
 7 ,. ■ 
 
 - 13 ,> 
 
 9-45 .. 
 
 IS ,. 
 
 On April 17, 
 
 
 815 A.M. . . 
 
 - • I9t\„ 
 
 This was the maximum reached by the mercury, after 
 which it gradually sank again to a lower level. 
 
 The young shoots of the vine contain acid tartrate of potash 
 in much larger quantity than the sap. Cellulose and chloro- 
 phyll in constantly increasing quantity, and the mineral 
 constituents already mentioned, are deposited within their 
 structure, and that of the leaves. In the expressed juice of 
 entire branches there are found vegetable fibrin, which is 
 deposited spontaneously with the chlorophyll as a green 
 deposit ; vegetable albumen, which is precipitated by boiling ; 
 tannin, recognized by its astringent taste, its inky reaction 
 with iron salts, and its precipitate with solution of gelatine ; 
 acid tartrates of potash and lime, which can be obtained 
 by evaporation and crystallization ; starch, recognizable by 
 its assuming a blue colour with iodine ; gum, precipitated 
 by alcohol ; mineral salts. The part remaining insoluble 
 consists mainly of lignine or cellulose ; of this substance all 
 wood, old and young, is composed. In the cell-cavities of 
 the wood there is deposited in autumn a quantity of starch. 
 When such ripe wood is rasped and boiled with water, the 
 
I.] CHEMICAL INGREDIENTS. 35 
 
 starch is extracted and gives the blue coloration with iodine 
 solution. The tendrils contain malates and tartrates and 
 little tannin, and have a taste of unripe fruit. The grapes 
 contain in their unripe state malates and tartrates, mainly 
 of potassium, which vary in proportion according to the 
 period of development. Before the appearance of any sugar 
 malates prevail ; when the grapes become sugary tartrates 
 prevail, which in the fully ripe grapes maintain their 
 preponderance. The grapes then also contain fibrin, albu- 
 men, gum, pectin, tannin, and in largest quantity the 
 sugar peculiar to fruit ; the tannin is not in solution in 
 the juice, but deposited in the husk and seed, and requires 
 maceration for its extraction. The husk of the blue and 
 black grapes contains the blue colouring matter also deposited 
 in the insoluble state along with the tannin, and extractable 
 only by alcohol and acid, or wine. The stalks contain starch 
 during summer, but lose it towards autumn, and when the 
 grapes are ripe they contain tannin and acid. The amount 
 of acid in the grapes increases during their growth, and 
 decreases again during ripening. When the juice from 
 grapes of various periods of growth simply is considered, 
 without reference to the number and weight of the berries, 
 it is observed to become steadily less and less acid, as shown 
 by the following experiments : — 
 
 y nice of Blue Tyrol {Black Hambro') Grapes. 
 
 On August 15, 1858, quite unripe 
 On ,, 30, 1858, unripe, green 
 On Sept. II, 1858, little coloured 
 On Oct. 23, 1858, ripe . 
 On Nov. 4, 1858, „ . . . 
 
 contained 
 
 31 per mille acid. 
 
 31 S 
 
 28 
 '3 
 13 
 
 Juice of Blue Burgundy {Piueau) 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 On August 15, 1858, quite unripe 
 
 On „ 30, 1858, 
 
 On Sept. II, 1858, half green, half blue 
 
 On Oct. 1.5, 1858, ripe . 
 
 On „ 23, 1858, „ . . 
 
 On Nov. 4, 1858; „ 
 
 contained 
 
 34 '5 per niille acid 
 
 34 
 
 17-5 
 
 12 ,, 
 
 9 
 9 
 
 D 2 
 
 
 
36 CHEMISTRY OF GRAPES. [chap. 
 
 Juice of White Chasselas {Royal Muscadine) or Gutedel. 
 
 On August 15, 1858, quite unripe . contained 34 per mille add. 
 
 On ,, 30, 1858, ripening . . ,,15 
 
 On Sept. II, 1858, eatable, not quite ripe ,, 11 '5 
 
 On Oct. 15, 1858, quite ripe . . ,, 6 
 
 On „ 23, 1858, „ . . „ 6 
 
 On Nov, 4, 1858, „ . . „ 7-5 
 
 In the foregoing analyses the acidity is expressed as free 
 tartaric acid, contained in 1,000 parts of juice. In the black 
 grapes the permillage of acidity did not diminish or undergo 
 any change in the time between October 23 and November 4, 
 while in the white Chasselas it experienced an increase during 
 that period. We shall have to consider the question of the 
 changes of the acidity of grapes during ripening more in 
 detail in the following pages. 
 
 The proportion of juice to murk has been found in various 
 grapes as follows : — 
 
 White Chasselas grapes, stalks removed, gave by strong 
 pressure — ^juice 97 per cent. ; murk of husks and kernels 
 3 per cent. 
 
 Black Pineau grapes, stalks removed, gave — juice 94-8 per 
 cent. ; murk 5 '2 per cent. 
 
 Black Pineau, pressed with stalks, as in the Champagne, 
 gave — ^juice 9i'8 per cent. ; murk (including stalks) 9 percent. 
 
 Black Pineau, which had been allowed to ferment with 
 husks and stalks, as in the preparation of Burgundy wine, 
 and then pressed, gave — wine 696 per cent. ; murk 30^4 
 per cent. 
 
 In this latter case the proportion of the murk is increased 
 by the absorption of much wine, which cannot be removed 
 by pressure. 
 
 SPECIAL INVESTIGATION OF THE RELATION OF ACID AND 
 SUGAR IN GRAPES DURING RIPENING. 
 
 The percentage of free acid present in grape-juice 
 diminishes with the increasing ripeness of the grape, while 
 the percentage of sugar increases at the same time con- 
 siderably. From this it has frequently been inferred, that, 
 in 'the process of ripening, the acid is transformed into 
 sugar. On closer consideration it will, however, appear 
 
I.] ACID AND SUGAR DURING RIPENING. 37 
 
 that such a conclusion cannot be safely drawn from the mere 
 fact of the diminished percentage of free acid, as the weight 
 of the fruit augments considerably during the progress of 
 growth, and thus the total amount of free acid present in the 
 ripe grape may be actually greater than in the unripe fruit, 
 and yet its proportion per cent, be considerably diminished. 
 Moreover, the free acid is not by any means a measure of the 
 total amount of acid present, as there is always some acid 
 united to an alkali, and a greater proportion of alkali in the 
 ripe fruit would account for a diminution of the free acid, 
 even without any increase in the weight of the fruit. We 
 have therefore instituted the following experiments. 
 
 The grapes to be experimented on were selected so as to 
 correspond, as far as possible, to average samples in the same 
 state of growth. The berries were then detached from the 
 stalks, as close as possible to the berry, and the weight of one 
 hundred of them carefully taken. They were then mashed 
 in a mortar, and the free acid and sugar estimated, either in 
 the total mash, or in the juice of the mash only. In some 
 cases the combined acid was determined, by estimating the 
 amount of carbonate of potash present in the ash of the 
 juice. The amount of tartaric acid was determined in some 
 cases. The following tables show, first, the amount of acid, 
 sugar, &c. per cent. ; and, secondly, the amounts as contained 
 in one hundred berries. 
 
 Riessling Grapes, from Rauenthal. 
 First Sample, taken Sept. 13, 1866. 
 Weight of 100 berries, 107-60 grms., consisting of — 
 
 Skins 1 1 '49 g^ms. 
 
 Kernels 7'95 i> 
 
 Juice ... . • 88'i6 ,, 
 
 107-60 ,, 
 
 100 parts of juice The juice of loo berries 
 
 contained contained 
 
 Acid, calculated as free T 1 . . 2-821 per cent. 2-482 grms. 
 
 Combined . . 0-050 ,, 0043 ,, 
 
 2-871 ,, 2-525 „ 
 
 Sugar . . . . 2-98 „ 2-630 „ 
 
 Ash . . ... 2-60 „ 0-229 ,, 
 
 1 The symbol T stands for tartaric acid. 
 
38 ACID AND SUGAR [chap. 
 
 Second Sample, taken October 12, 1866. 
 Weight of 100 berries, 1 38-5 grms., consisting of — 
 
 Skins 14 '95 g™"- 
 
 Kernels . . ... 874 ,, 
 
 Juice . .... Ii4'8i ,, 
 
 l3S"5o .. 
 
 100 parts of juice The juice of icx) berries 
 contained contained 
 
 Acid, calculated as free T . i '493 per cent. 1 722 grms. 
 
 Combined . . 0220 ,, o'Z45 i. 
 
 1 713 " I '967 ,. 
 
 Sugar i2'io ,, 1380 ,, 
 
 Ash .... 0-225 „ 0293 „ 
 
 Third Sample, taken November 16, 1866. 
 Weight of 100 berries, 145 '6 grms., consisting of— 
 
 Skins 
 
 
 14-20 grms. 
 
 Kernels . 
 
 
 907 ,. 
 
 Juice 
 
 
 122-33 „ 
 
 
 145-60 „ 
 
 
 100 parts of juice 
 
 The juice of ico berries 
 
 
 contained 
 
 contained 
 
 Acid, calculated as free T 
 
 I '333 per cent. 
 
 1-651 grms. 
 
 Combined 
 
 . 0-196 „ 
 
 0-236 „ 
 
 
 I '529 .. 
 
 1-887 „ 
 
 Sugar . 
 
 . 16 -20 „ 
 
 19-80 „ 
 
 Ash 
 
 ■ 0-274 ., 
 
 0-33S „ 
 
 Therefore the free and combined acids, calculated as tartaric 
 acid, amount to — 
 
 In 100 parts of juice. In juice of loo berries- 
 First Sample .... 2-871 per cent. 2-525 grms. 
 Second sample . . . 17 '3 >> ''967 >, 
 Third sample .... 1-529 ,, 1-887 i. 
 
 Of these total acids, the real tartaric acid amounted to — 
 
 Xn looparts of joiice. In juice of loo berries. 
 P'irst sample .... 0-175 per cent. 0-154 grms. 
 
 Second sample .... 0-141 „ 0-162 ,, 
 
 Third sample .... 0-136 „ o-i68 ,, 
 
 The next three samples of the Gutedel grape were taken 
 from a garden at Darmstadt on the 17th of September, 1864. 
 
I.] DURING RIPENING. 39 
 
 They were all taken on the same day, from the same wall, 
 and represented different stages of ripeness. The skins and 
 kernels were not extracted from the mash, which was analysed 
 entire. The combined acid was not determined. 
 
 First Sample, quite unripe. 
 
 Weight of 100 berries, 106 '50 grms., containing — 
 
 In 100 parts. In loo berries. 
 
 Sugar . . _ . None. None. 
 
 Free acid, calculated as T . 2 '362 per cent. 2504 grms. 
 
 Second Sample, half ripe. 
 
 Weight of 100 berries, I36'25 grms., containing — 
 
 In 100 parts. In loo berries. 
 
 Sugar . . 576 per cent. 6-488 grms. 
 
 Free acid, calculated as T i'582 ,, 2'i55 ,, 
 
 Third Sample, nearly ripe. 
 
 Weight of 100 berries, 279'39 grms., containing — 
 
 In 100 parts. In loo berries. 
 
 Sugar . . . _ . 8'87 per cent. 24782 grms. 
 
 Free acid, calculated as T . o'%T] „ 2 '450 ,, 
 
 In this, as in the former case, there is a great decrease in the 
 percentage of free acid, but the amount of it present in 100 
 berries is almost the same in the three samples. 
 
 Two samples of Muscatel grape, taken from a garden 
 wall at Dirmstein, on the 4th of October, 1 866 : — 
 
 First Sample, less ripe. 
 
 Weight of 100 berries, 203 grms., containing — 
 
 In loo parts. In loo berries. 
 
 Sugar . . io'5 percent. 21 •315 grms. 
 
 Free acid, calculated as T . I '255 ,, 2'547 ,, 
 
 Second Sample, somewhat more ripe. 
 
 Weight of 100 berries, 307 grms., containing-— 
 
 In lOD parts. In loo berries. 
 
 Sugar . . . . I5'40 percent. 47 '278 grms. 
 
 Free acid, calculated as T i 'oio ,, 3'ioo ,, 
 
 In this last sample the amount of free acid in 100 berries 
 has actually increased perceptibly, although the percentage, 
 as in all the former samples, has diminished. If we take 
 it for granted that, in the case of the Gutedel and Muscatel 
 
40 RIPENING OF ENFARINE. [chap. 
 
 grapes, the amount of combined acid increases with the 
 increasing ripeness, then the total amount of acid present 
 in loo berries would show a decided increase with the in- 
 creasing ripeness, instead of a diminution, as has been 
 assumed. While, in the case of the Riessling grape, we 
 have an increase of sugar from 2-63 grms. on 13th September, 
 to 1 3 "8 grms. on 12th October; the total acid shows a 
 diminution from 2'525 grms. to voi^l grms. Then, on i6th 
 November, the sugar has risen to 19S grms., while the acid 
 has sunk only to r887 grms., thus having in fact almost 
 remained stationary. 
 
 The case of the Gutedel is even more striking, for there 
 we have an augmentation of sugar from O'O in the first 
 sample, to 24782 grms. in the third, the acid at the same 
 time sinking from 2-504 to 2^450 grms. or only '054 grm. 
 = rJT part. 
 
 But although the foregoing analyses do not justify the 
 conclusion that in the process of ripening acid is converted 
 into sugar, such may possibly be the case. We have then to 
 assume that at a certain stage of growth the conversion of 
 acid into sugar begins, and keeps pace with the production 
 of acid in such a manner as to keep the amount of acid 
 present always the same, though the percentage diminishes 
 considerably. On the whole, we are led to the conclusion 
 that the acid, if it has anything to do with the production 
 of sugar, does so by an action similar to that which dilute 
 sulphuric acid exerts in the conversion of starch into sugar. 
 The acid suffers no change in the process, a small quantity 
 being capable of producing a large quantity of sugar. 
 
 We have thus shown that there is during ripening but 
 a slight, and frequently no diminution in the total amount 
 of acid present in an entire grape, and that the mere per- 
 centage of acid is not an indication of such amount. 
 
 PECULIARITY OF RIPENING OF THE GRAPES OF THE 
 "ENFARINi;." ENGLISH "BLACK CLUSTER." 
 
 The " enfarin^ " or befloured vine is a common vine in 
 the Jura, and more particularly peculiar to the vineyards 
 
I.] RIPENING OF ENFARINE. 41 
 
 of Arbois. It is one of the class of vines whose fruit con- 
 tains most acid and least sugar, and would therefore offer 
 few advantages for cultivation, were it not for the great 
 abundance of its fruit and the inestimable property of its 
 great resistance to the hardships of the mountain climate. 
 It is mostly mixed with the Poulsard, the Trousseau, and 
 the Baclan. If its juice does not exceed y\ of the entire 
 mixture, it is said to be beneficial to the wine.^ The acidity 
 of the grapes of this vine does not always diminish with its 
 maturity, and the sugar does not always increase. 
 
 Experiments made in 1863.^ 
 
 On September 16 some of the very ripest grapes, as ripe 
 indeed as the vine can yield them, were selected. 
 
 They yielded in 1,000 parts of juice : total acid, calculated 
 as tartaric, 23-1 ; sugar, 15 39. 
 
 On September 19 three lots of grapes were selected. 
 
 1. The ripest grapes chosen from amongst the blackest 
 gave must which yielded : acid, 248; sugar, 1599. 
 
 2. Red grapes without any black appearance: acid, 23-4; 
 sugar, I SCO. 
 
 3. Grapes, partly red, partly black: acid, 23-4; sugar, 
 128-9. 
 
 Experiments made in 1864. 
 
 On September 27 three lots were again selected. 
 
 1. The most ripe black grapes : acid, 21-4 ; sugar, 1567. 
 
 2. Red grapes about to become black: acid, 2r8; sugar, 
 
 I3S-I- 
 
 3. Green grapes just beginning to get pink: acid, 21 8; 
 
 sugar, 135-1. 
 
 Vintage of September 28.— Four lots were cut. 
 
 \. The blackest grapes in the apparently highest state of 
 maturity gave: acid, 21-4; sugar, 156-7. 
 
 2. Grapes of a violet-red colour, with no green : acid, 24-4 ; 
 sugar, 603. 
 
 1 Rendu, Ampelographie fran9aise, p. 255. 
 
 2 Pasteur, Maladiesdu Vin, p. 202 ; -Vitography and Synonyms, see Babo, p. 158. 
 
42 RIPENING OF ENFARINE. [chap. 
 
 3. Reddish black and blackish red grapes: acid, 21-8; 
 sugar, i46'4. 
 
 4. Quite green grapes, and grapes which began to get red : 
 acid, 25-5 ; sugar, 79-5. 
 
 Vintage of September 30. — Three lots of grapes were 
 selected. 
 
 1. Grapes with black surfaces : acid, i8'3; sugar, 1677. 
 
 2. Grapes black at the point, red at the insertion of the 
 stalk: acid, 225 ; sugar, 1327. 
 
 3. Red violet grapes, without black : acid, 245 ; sugar, I02'3. 
 
 From the analyses of the vintages of September 19, 1863, 
 and September 27, 1864, it follows that the acidity of the 
 red grapes, and of those which are partly red and partly 
 black, is less than the acidity of the quite black grapes. At 
 a certain moment of maturation, if not during the whole process 
 of ripening, the amount of acid increases therefore, instead of 
 diminishing, as has hitherto been supposed to be the rule for 
 all fruit. Consequently the fact speaks against the assumption 
 that the sugar is a product of transformation of the malic 
 and tartaric acid. 
 
 The vintages of September 28 and 30, 1864, do not give the 
 same result. Here the amount of acid decreases somewhat in 
 a certain proportion with the increase of sugar. But they 
 show, with the first analyses, the curious fact that the quantity 
 of acid changes very little, while that of the sugar increases 
 very much. 
 
 The second lot of the vintage of September 28, 1864 (red 
 grapes), contained less sugar than the fourth, which was made 
 up of less ripe, namely green, or reddish green grapes. Here 
 a diminution of sugar might be assumed as a result of 
 ripening, as before we have concluded upon an increase of 
 acid. The red grapes No. 2 of the vintage of September 19 
 had much more sugar than the red grapes No. 2 of Sep- 
 tember 30. They were a little more advanced, and from 
 another vineyard. 
 
 The ripe "enfarine" of 1863 was more acid and less sweet 
 than that of 1864. 
 
J.] RIPENING OF PLOUSSARD. 43 
 
 PROCESS OF RIPENING OF THE "PLOUSSARD" GRAPES. 
 
 This vine is also called Poulsard^ and Poulsare, and is 
 largely cultivated in the Jura, on account of its strong 
 constitution and the abundance and excellence of its 
 grapes. Its red wine has great finesse and an agreeable 
 taste, but it sheds its colour rapidly, when in cask in two 
 or three years, and is very delicate and apt to pass into 
 acetous fermentation. 
 
 Experiments made in 1863.^ 
 
 Vintage of September 7. — This was divided into three lots, 
 No. I being the ripest black grapes: acid, 8'5 ; sugar, I9S'4. 
 
 2. Red grapes, termed " grains lie de vin : " acid, not de- 
 termined; sugar, 1357. 
 
 3. Green grapes just becoming red : acid, not determined ; 
 sugar, 95-5. 
 
 The character of the total must which the entire vintage 
 would yield can be judged from the fact that out of i3'495 
 kilos, of these grapes 9433 gave must of composition i ; 3 ■862 
 gave must of composition 2, and 0'200 gave must of composi- 
 tion 3. 
 
 A few very ripe grapes gave must containing : acid, 63 ; 
 sugar, 200'3. 
 
 Vintage of September 16. — i. The blackest grapes of the 
 ripest bunches gave : acid, 64 ; sugar, 2094. 
 
 2. Half ripe grapes, or those between red and black : acid, 
 188 ; sugar, 165. 
 
 3. Red grains, called " grains lie de vin," showing neither 
 green nor black : acid, 187; sugar, 146-3. 
 
 4. Green grains beginning to show a rosy tint : acid, 206 ; 
 sugar, 84-9. 
 
 Vintage of September 18.— Ripest grapes of the blackest 
 bunches: acid, 6-4; sugar, 2105. 
 
 ' Rendu, p. 253. ^ Pasteur, p. 20g. 
 
44 RIPENING OF PLOUSSARD. [chap. 
 
 Experiments made in 1864. 
 
 Vintage of September 27.— Blackest grapes of ripest bunches : 
 acid, 8"8 ; sugar, 2iS"0. 
 
 Vintage of September 28. — Blackest grapes from ripest 
 bunches of the best situation, renowned for giving the best 
 wine of Arbois : acid, 8'3; sugar, 22r5. 
 
 In the vintage of September 16, 1863, it was omitted to 
 take a sample of merely ripe grapes, like those of No. i of 
 September 7. We may assume it to have contained 8 grms. 
 of acid and 200 grms. of sugar per litre. 
 
 Nos. 4, 3, and 2 of the vintage of September 16, 1863, 
 show that the process of ripening consisted at that period 
 mainly in this, that the green and red grapes took up sugar. 
 In the riper grapes, however, the process showed itself as a 
 diminution of acid. In passing from 4, green, to 3, red, the 
 grapes lost 2 grms. of acid, and gained more than 60 grms. 
 of sugar per litre of must. On the other hand, the red grapes, 
 during the process of getting partly black, lost only an insig- 
 nificant amount of acid while gaining nearly 20 grms. of 
 sugar. We see, further, that the grapes already partly black 
 or three-quarters ripe, in passing to perfect maturity, lose 
 much acid, while their sugar does not increase in proportion. 
 For every 10 grms. of acid lost only 35 grms. of sugar 
 are added. And in passing from grapes which have only just 
 become black to those which have already been so during 
 some time, it is found that the sugar increases very little, 
 while the acid diminishes notably. This is particularly seen 
 by comparison of Nos. i and 4 of the vintage of September 7, 
 and by comparison of the vintage No. i of September 7 
 with No. I of vintage of September 16. 
 
 There are therefore two kinds of ripening — one, peculiar 
 to the grape which is not yet black, consisting in an 
 augmentation of sugar; the other, a process mostly ac- 
 complished in the black grape, consisting in a diminution 
 of acidity. 
 
I.] RIPENING OF PLOUSSARD. 45 
 
 The grapes of the Ploussard attain a certain degree of 
 ripeness beyond which they experience no change in the 
 relation of their acid and sugar, however long they hang on 
 the vine. It is, however, possible that they undergo other 
 beneficial alterations as yet unknown. 
 
 In the vintage 1 864 the very ripest grapes of the Ploussard 
 had more acid than in that of 1 863, although they were taken 
 fifteen and twenty days later than the grapes of 1863. But 
 the . Ploussard of 1 864 had a little more sugar than that of 
 1863. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF VITICULTURE. 
 
 Soil favourable to viticulture. — Manuring and improvement of the soil in vineyards. 
 — Improvement of the soil. — Manuring. — Quantity of dung required by the 
 vme. — Manner of manuring. — Modes of propagating and multiplying the vine. 
 Propagation by seeds. — Propagation by means of eyes. — Propagation by means 
 of cut canes. — Propagation by meansof layers. — Multiplication by grafting. — Eye- 
 grafting. — Simple inarching. — Compound inarching. — Grafting in grooves. — 
 Summary of general principles of the cultivation of the vine. 
 
 SOIL FAVOURABLE TO VITICULTURE. 
 
 The vine grows on chalky, siliceous, aluminous, and 
 magnesian soil, on granitic mountains, on formations of 
 transition, and on secondary, tertiary, volcanic, and alluvial 
 territories. But in all parts of the world vines grow with 
 predilection along the borders of rivers. The wild vine of 
 the Rhine valley is found on the borders of marshes. The 
 most luxuriant growth of the vine and its richest bear- 
 ing power are met with in the paludal districts of the 
 Gironde. This shows that while the vine is a most accom- 
 modating plant, and will even succeed on poor land, on which 
 almost every other vegetable would perish, yet its most perfect 
 development, and consequently its highest bearing power, 
 and d. fortiori its most profitable cultivation, are dependent 
 upon certain conditions which are not often found united. 
 
 The vine requires for its upper and main roots a territory 
 which must not be clogged with water, but be pervious to it, 
 and admit air at frequent intervals. But at the same time it 
 requires a constant supply of water within easy reach of the 
 roots. It therefore lives best on ground which, although not 
 itself soaked with water, can constantly attract it from the sub- 
 Soil by means of the capillary attraction due to its porosity. 
 
CHAP. II.] FAVOURABLE SOIL. 47 
 
 This is exactly the case in the paludal districts of the Gironde, 
 where the ground-water is within a few feet of the surface. 
 The want of such subsoil water can be supplied by frequent 
 natural or artificial irrigation. The vines of the Medoc are 
 placed upon little hillocks of gravelly soil, and receive rain at 
 frequent intervals from the clouds which come landwards from 
 the Atlantic. The water quickly sinks into the loose ground, and, 
 leaving its manurial ingredients to be absorbed by the spon- 
 gioles, soon makes way for a supply of fresh atmospheric air. 
 
 Soil may be defined as a piece of territory having surface 
 and depth, and the mechanical and chemical conditions for 
 the growth of a plant. The great bulk of all soil serves 
 (with regard to vegetation) mainly the mechanical purpose 
 of holding in a dilute and equally distributed form the 
 chemical materials for the growth of the plant. This bulk 
 is mostly quite unfit to sustain the life of any plant. It may 
 consist of quartzy sand, of pebbles, of chalk, to the extent 
 of from 80 to 90 per cent. It is only the smaller portion 
 completing the 100, which acts chemically by retaining and 
 furnishing to the plant the inorganic materials of growth. 
 This has been experimentally proved by Wiegmann and 
 Polstorf. They cultivated a variety of agricultural plants to 
 the utmost perfection in soil which they had compounded 
 entirely out of known ingredients. These were in 1,000 parts: — 
 
 Quartz-sand . . . • 
 
 861-26 
 
 Sulphate of potash 
 
 0-34 
 
 Common salt . • ■ • 
 
 013 
 
 Gypsum (anhydrous) . 
 
 1-25 
 
 Washed chalk (whiting) 
 
 10-00 
 
 Carbonate of magnesia . . • • 
 
 S-oo 
 
 Oxide of manganese . • ■■ 
 
 2-50 
 
 Oxide of iron 
 
 10 -co 
 
 Hydrate of alumina . 
 
 15-00 
 
 Phosphate of lime 
 
 15-60 
 
 Peatate of potash 
 
 3 '41 
 
 ,, soda . 
 
 2-22 
 
 ,, ammonia 
 
 10-29 
 
 ,, Jime . ... 
 
 • 3-07 
 
 ,, magnesia .... • • 
 
 1-97 
 
 ,, iron . . ... 
 
 3-32 
 
 ,, alumina 
 
 . 4-64 
 
 insoluble peatic acid ... 
 
 50-00 
 
48 FAVOURABLE SOIL. [chap. 
 
 The peatic acid was extracted from peat, by boiling with 
 dilute caustic potash, and precipitating with sulphuric acid. 
 This acid and its salts were added to supply the ingredient 
 which in fertile soil is termed humus. Now such artificial 
 soil will feed to perfection any vine ; it can be used to rear 
 vines in earthenware pots, or in tubs, or even to prepare the 
 bed of a vinery. The peat acid and its compounds can be 
 supplied by an increased quantity of peat mixed with the 
 mineral ingredients mentioned. It even appears that peat 
 itself can be made to take the place of the quartz-sand, and 
 can be impregnated with the inorganic food of the plants by 
 infusing ufKDn it the watery solution of the necessary chemical 
 substances (Nageli and Zoller). Such soil as the foregoing 
 we will term ideal or rational soil. It is useful for experiments 
 to investigate the natural laws which determine the growth 
 of plants. But it could not easily be prepared as an instru- 
 ment of agriculture on remunerative terms. It is the ideal 
 standard to which every viticulturist must endeavour to raise 
 the particular soil of his vineyard. Next to this ideal soil 
 we have to consider the empirical prepared soil which is 
 capable of producing the best vines and grapes. On this 
 subject our English gardeners have considerable experience. 
 Thomson ("Cultivation of the Grape Vine," 1867, p. 14) says 
 that vines such as are grown in English glass-houses thrive 
 best in a fibry calcareous loam, taken not more than three 
 inches deep, from an old sheep or deer pasture. Such soil 
 should consist of about 65 per cent, of sand, 30 per cent, of 
 clay, and S per cent, of chalk, with an abundance of vegetable 
 fibre, giving it the character of what gardeners know as friable 
 turfy loam. When the sand is in excess, it may be called 
 sandy loam ; when the clay is in excess, clayey loam. To 
 prepare such soil the turf is cut and thrown with the grass 
 downwards, and allowed to remain so till frosty weather sets 
 in. The lumps are now stacked while in a frozen state, and 
 left for six months so that all the grass is dead. The whole 
 is now well mixed with shovel and fork, and further prepared 
 as follows: — To ten carts of it add two carts full of lime 
 rubbish, preferably old plaster with hair in it ; one cart of 
 
II.] MANURING OF SOIL. 
 
 49 
 
 thoroughly charred wood, including any wood ashes which 
 may be amongst it ; one cart of fresh horse droppings ; 4 cwt. 
 of broken bones about an inch square, and if possible 2 cwt. of 
 horn shavings. Have the whole mass well mixed by turning 
 it over several times if possible in frosty weather, and it will 
 be ready either for forming of itself the bed of vines grown 
 in glass-houses, so-called vine border, or for being placed as 
 an amelioration or manure upon such beds, or upon land 
 upon which the vine grows in the open air. 
 
 Of this empirical soil the English gardener requires from 
 120 to 150 cubic feet for a single full-grown vine, whereas of 
 the ideal soil not more than 27 cubic feet would be required 
 to obtain the same result. It is probable that, by a com- 
 bination of chemical manuring with the employment of the 
 artificial compost described, a great saving of material, space, 
 and labour may be effected in English vineries. The compost 
 itself might also be greatly improved, e.g. by a greater com- 
 minution of the bones, or the employment in their stead of 
 the more soluble superphosphate. 
 
 MANURING AND IMPROVEMENT OF THE SOIL IN 
 VINEYARDS. 
 
 There are a few varieties of natural soil which will continue 
 to bear fruit for centuries without ever being improved or 
 manured. But these are so exceptional that they cannot be 
 allowed to guide our general treatment of the vine. Most 
 soil produces fruit for a certain period, be it ten or a 
 hundred years, and then ceases to be remunerative. This 
 cessation of the fertility of the soil is due to the abstraction 
 from it of the mineral salts which the plants grown on it 
 take up and retain in seeds, stalks, leaves, wood, and roots, 
 as we have shown in a former paragraph. As these mineral 
 matters are always present in limited quantities, it behoves 
 every proprietor or cultivator of a vineyard to make two 
 classes of observations, and effect two kinds of chemical 
 treatment of his soil. First he should observe the quantity 
 and quality of his produce. From these he judges whether 
 
 E 
 
50 IMPROVEMENT OF SOIL. [chap. 
 
 or not his soil is deficient in any mineral ingredients. If 
 it were wanting in potash and phosphoric acid, he would 
 obtain but little growth of fruit ; his fruit would be imperfect, 
 ripen badly, and give bad wine. Or if the deficiency of these 
 ingredients was still greater, the fruit would not even set, 
 although there might be a good show of blossoms. The 
 parallel observations might be directed upon the soil, which 
 should be analysed to ascertain whether the quantity of phos- 
 phate and potassium salt present was sufficient or not. Clay 
 soil generally would have sufficient potash not to require 
 augmentation. Chalk soil, on the other hand, would probably 
 not have sufficient potash, and require it to be augmented. 
 The second series of observations which he would have to 
 make would be concerning the quantity of mineral matters 
 exported from the vineyard in the grapes, the green branches, 
 or the old wood. With regard to this point we have given 
 above the most reliable data for everybody's guidance. The 
 rule then upon which the proprietor has to act is this : to 
 find, by the scientific process indicated, the amount of mineral 
 matters removed from his vineyard, and to restore to it every 
 year at least as much as he has taken out in the crops. It 
 will be seen that by such a process the natural ability to pro- 
 duce is preserved, but not increased. If, therefore, a vineyard 
 suffered from a want of the constituents necessary for the 
 perfection of the vine, it would not, by the mere restoration 
 of that which was abstracted from it, become more fertile, 
 but in this case the absolute amount contained in the soil 
 would have to be increased by special proceedings. 
 
 IMPROVEMENT OF THE SOIL. 
 
 Vineyards on calcareous soil are best improved by carrying 
 into them a quantity of siliceous sand. If disintegrated 
 granite can be obtained, it is very useful. On the other 
 hand, siliceous soils are best improved by mixing with 
 them a quantity of clay marl. The viticulturist should 
 take care to find his means of improvement as near as 
 possible to the land on which they are wanted, in order 
 
II.] IMPROVEMENT OF SOIL. 51 
 
 to keep down the expense of carriage. Frequently one of 
 the best means is to dig a deep hole in the vineyard itself, 
 and to find whether the lower strata do not contain what is 
 wanted. In our experience this has been more frequently 
 the case than otherwise. Marl contains potash, chalk con- 
 tains the lime necessary for the perfection of the grape, and 
 these two adjuncts are most powerful in improving the 
 quality of the wine, so as to give it finesse. Earth is fre- 
 quently carried into the vineyards. It may, of course, 'be very 
 useful if it be the result of long cultivation, and contain a 
 large amount of decayed vegetable matter — if it be, in fact, in 
 that state which we call humus. In some parts of Germany 
 — for example, in Wiirtemberg — the carrying of earth into the 
 vineyards is a laborious and expensive occupation, carried 
 on every year, frequently without any prospect of advantage. 
 Just as in some parts of the world there remain commons 
 where the poor man can herd his cow or his donkey, so here 
 there are set aside lands from which the viticulturist has a 
 right to fetch his earth ; and not rarely there are disputes 
 and lawsuits about these earth rights. Of course in rocky 
 situations the addition of mould is essential to the main- 
 tenance of the vineyard, as one can see in Dalmatia, where 
 the vineyards exist only on earth carried on to the rocks. 
 But we are afraid that on the whole the carrying of earth 
 into vineyards possessing territory is as useless a proceeding 
 as the popular carting of lime and chalk upon ordinary agricul- 
 tural land has been found to be in Saxony. The vine does not 
 absolutely require humus. It requires a medium in which it 
 can strike its roots, and if in that medium it finds the mineral 
 ingredients, all others are supplied by the atmosphere. We 
 believe the recognition of this truth to be of the utmost im- 
 portance for the future of viticulture, for in most parts where 
 the vine is extensively cultivated the production of manure 
 by agricultural means is very expensive. On the other hand, 
 the supplying the soil with all necessary mineral ingredients 
 has now become relatively easy since the potash mines of 
 Stassfurt have put potassium within the reach of agriculture. 
 as common salt is within the reach of everybody. 
 
 E 2 
 
52 MANURING OF VINEYARDS. [chap. 
 
 When a soil contains too much clay, it may be heaped 
 up, mixed with small coal and burned, or a certain amount 
 of burnt clay may be mixed with it. Lindley ("Theory and 
 Practice of Horticulture") describes clayey loam soil as so 
 adhesive that air cannot get into it. It also offers great 
 mechanical opposition to the passage of roots through its 
 viscid mass, and hence it is exclusively inhabited by a coarse 
 and worthless vegetation. Burning changes all this ; the 
 particles of clay lose their adhesiveness, and this gives 
 a new character to the soil, which offers freedom to the 
 entrance of air and exit of water, and crumbles readily 
 away beneath the advancing roots of any race of plants. 
 There is this further difference between burned and unburned 
 clay, that the roots of plants which it previously contained 
 were unable to decay, and are now by fire reduced to their 
 saline constituents, and so enrich the soil ; and moreover the 
 burned particles of clay acquire the power of absorbing 
 ammonia from the air, and holding it within their pores till 
 showers fall and wash it into the land, where it immediately 
 acts as a nourishing food for plants. 
 
 All sandy and clayey soils should be carefully supplied 
 with chalk and gypsum. The latter, like the burnt clay, 
 attracts carbonate of ammonia from the air, and is converted 
 into chalk on the one hand, and sulphate of ammonia on 
 the other, both being acceptable food to the vine, 
 
 MANURING. 
 
 The best manure for the vine is stable manure, by which 
 we mean, of course, the mixture of straw and the solid and 
 fluid excrement of cows and horses or other animals. The 
 value of this manure will stand in a direct proportion to the 
 amount of urinary ingredients which it contains. Mere 
 straw will as little manure a vineyard as the mere excrement 
 of a cow or a horse. Human excreta may also be used 
 for the manuring of the vine ; but in all manuring of the 
 vine it has to be considered that ammoniacal ingredients 
 are apt to produce too great a vegetable development of 
 
II- ] DUNG REQUIRED BY VINE. 53 
 
 the branches, particularly in the absence of the ingre- 
 dients necessary for the development of the fruit. Where 
 manures have to be kept for a long time subject to the effects 
 of rain and air, it is well to transform them into composts ; 
 that is, to stratify them with thin layers of earth, and to 
 frequently change the construction of heaps so made by 
 resetting them. The manure thereby becomes short, half 
 rotten, and more easily managed. In many parts of France, 
 where the principles of mineral manuring are not understood, 
 parts of various plants are used for the purpose of improving 
 the soil. Thus the people collect broom in the forests, and 
 all kinds of leaves and herbs, and, after sopping them with 
 a little fluid excrement, put them into holes close to the 
 vines. In many parts of Styria viticulturists dig trenches and 
 fill them with fagots cut green. In other parts they grow 
 green crops in the vineyards and dig or plough them under. 
 These proceedings may have a collateral advantage in 
 certain places besides their main object ; but whenever such 
 an advantage is not consciously sought for, we are sure 
 these indirect processes of manuring had better be sup- 
 planted by the process of mineral manuring. 
 
 Quantity of Dung required by the Vine. — If we take 
 a material containing no nutriment whatever, say peat, or 
 chalk, or silica in the form of sand or small granules 
 — a soil in which a vine would not live more than a few 
 months ; and if we take of this soil a sufficient quantity to 
 fill a box three decimetres deep and four decimetres square, 
 and then mix with this medium fifty litres of compost 
 containing forty litres of ordinary earth, and ten litres of 
 consumed manure ; and if in this mixture we then plant 
 a vine, it will become completely developed in the fourth, fifth, 
 or sixth year, according to climate. If from this period five 
 litres by measure, or two and a half kilos by weight of dung 
 are spread every year around the vine, on the surface of one 
 square metre, dug under, and mixed with the soil, without 
 reference to the original mixture of earth and manure in 
 which the vine has been planted, the vine will be main- 
 tained in sufficient strength to produce every year beautiful 
 
54 DUNG REQUIRED BY VINE. [chap. 
 
 wood and twenty grapes of at least fifty grammes' weight 
 each. In the eighth year the quantity of manure to be dug 
 under may be diminished by one-fifth. Guyot asserts that 
 in the Champagne, the Landes of Bordeaux, and the sands 
 of the Sologne, the vine will always yield a weight of grapes 
 equal to the weight of dung given to it. In fertile territories, 
 however, where the vine would grow naturally, though im- 
 perfectly, half the weight of dung above stated will be 
 sufficient. Supposing there were on an hectare ten thou- 
 sand vines, and each vine were to produce on an average 
 one kilo of grapes, or eighty hectolitres of wine, of an 
 average value of twenty francs an hectolitre, the gross income 
 of an hectare would be sixteen hundred francs. In an 
 ordinary soil this harvest would have required ten thousand 
 kilos of manure of which each thousand kilos would have 
 cost fifteen francs, giving a total of one hundred and fifty 
 francs. In a bad soil, however, twenty thousand kilos of 
 manure would have been required, at an expense of three 
 hundred francs. In a good soil the dung necessary each year 
 would therefore cost one-tenth of the gross produce ; in a 
 bad soil it would cost one-fifth. For a long time the question 
 has been agitated whether the vine could be manured without 
 altering the quality of the produce, and whether manure 
 ought to be put directly into the vineyard, or be first con- 
 sumed in the manner of compost. This has been answered 
 by experience to the following effect. It is necessary to 
 manure the vine with animal dung directly, and to carry 
 the manure into the vineyards, and to dig it under near the 
 vine after the vintage, and as early as possible before the next 
 period of growth. If the manure is carried to the vineyard 
 in autumn, it has time to become partially oxidized and 
 rotten ; its ingredients are spread equally throughout the soil 
 by means of the rains, and therefore become accessible to all 
 the roots of the vine. We know that the soil retains all 
 mineral ingredients wanted for the production of vegetable 
 growth, absolutely, and in proportions sufficient for fifteen 
 or twenty successive crops. We know that of ammoniacal 
 manure it retains from twelve to fifteen hundred times the 
 
II.] MANNER OF MANURING. 55 
 
 amount necessary for any given crop. Hence manure cannot 
 be carried to the land too early, for no part of that which 
 is beneficial to the vine can be lost. On the other hand, 
 if there be an excess of ammoniacal manure present, an 
 excessive vegetable growth will be produced, and engender 
 the presence in the fruit of an excess of albuminous matter 
 relatively to other constituents. It is this which will give to 
 wines bad qualities affecting their taste and lasting power. 
 Many viticulturists at Argenteuil, near Paris, have for years 
 been in the habit of manuring their vines with the street mud 
 of Paris, and they say that their wine had been deteriorated 
 thereby, so that while at one time it was drunk at the table of 
 the King of France, it ,is now consumed only in the little 
 public-houses of the barriires. Guyot remarks that they forget 
 that since that time they have pulled out every fine vine that 
 was formerly contained in their vineyards, and have every- 
 where planted the Gamay. Here and there they have left 
 a few plants of the Meslier Frangois, and upon these last 
 Guyot made an interesting experiment. He manured them 
 with the street mud of Paris, and obtained a quality 
 of wine which was worthy of its ancient reputation. No 
 doubt the exhalations of fresh manure, if it is put under- 
 neath the ripening grapes, adhere to them and make them 
 detestable. For the rest, it is the general experience, which 
 we do not think can be opposed by any facts to the contrary, 
 that the more and the more carefully a vineyard is manured, 
 the better and more abundant will be the wine which it will 
 produce. Those who would doubt this, we advise to pay a 
 visit to the Johannisberg Castle, and to Steinberg, or, at all 
 events, to peruse the accounts which we have given of the 
 farms of those establishments kept exclusively for the pur- 
 pose of furnishing manure for those celebrated vineyards. 
 
 Manner of Manuring. — To manure every year would, of 
 course, require a great deal of manual labour. To economize 
 this as much as possible, the manure calculated to be 
 required is mostly carried to the vineyard once in three 
 years. In good soil one should give to each vine \\ kilos, 
 in medium soil 3 kilos, in bad soil 6 kilos of manure^ 
 
56 MANNER OF MANURING. [chap. 
 
 every three years. Every hectare would therefore require 
 in three years either 15,000, 30,000, or 60,000 kilos of 
 manure. If this quantity of manure is compared with 
 that required by cereals, it will be found to be much less, 
 and this is mainly due to the fact that the fruit of the 
 vine removes from the soil much less phosphoric acid than 
 cereals. The manure should be put into the ground at some 
 time' during the period from the beginning of November until 
 March — the earlier the better. It should be covered with at 
 least 5 or 6 centimetres of earth. It is particularly in the 
 operation of digging under the manure that cultivation by 
 the plough proves itself useful. The plough leaves a long 
 trench : this trench is filled with the manure, and the 
 plough then goes the reverse way, throws the earth towards 
 the vine, and covers up the manure. If the manure is not 
 covered sufificiently deep with earth, it produces weeds, 
 which either require manual labour, or prevent the effect of 
 the sun from being exerted. Further, the roots of the vine 
 are drawn towards the dung, and, when the plough passes 
 again through that portion of soil in which manure has been 
 buried to an insufficient depth, they become disturbed or de- 
 stroyed. In some parts of the Graves of Bordeaux we have 
 seen the manure appUed in the following manner. A square 
 hole measuring about a foot in every direction was dug 
 round the foot of the vine. This was filled with manure, 
 so that for a distance of about 9 inches the trunk of the 
 vine was surrounded by nothing but manure. The hole 
 was then covered with earth. It will, of course, very much 
 depend upon the quality of the manure used what may be 
 the effect of such treatment. We have, however, seen more 
 than once that good strong stable manure applied in this 
 fashion has impaired the strength of, or altogether destroyed 
 the vine ; for the saprophytes or fungi growing in rotting 
 vegetable matter have a great tendency to penetrate into 
 living vegetable matter, and thus they get from the manure 
 into the bark of the vine and destroy it. We therefore do 
 not counsel the practice which we have seen in the Graves' 
 but advise that stable manure, if not transformed into a con- 
 
n.] PROPAGATIOJf.OF VINES. 57 
 
 sommd or earth-like compcJst, should not be put in direct 
 contact with the vine or its roots. 
 
 MODES OF PROPAGATING AND MULTIPLYING THE VINE. 
 
 Propagation by Seeds. 
 
 The propagation of the vine by seed is not frequently 
 employed, as it takes five or six years before a see'dling 
 begins to bear. It also happens frequently that seedlings 
 do not fulfil the expectations with which they were reared, 
 and have to be torn out. This is, however, not always the 
 case; and if care be taken by the viticulturist to properly 
 impregnate the flower from which he wishes to grow 
 seed, most beautiful and interesting varieties of vines are 
 produced. Among the vines thus produced by crossing of 
 races and growing from seed are several American varieties, 
 e.g. Norton's seedling, and the Chasselas Napoleon ; the latter 
 is the largest and finest grape which grows in France in the 
 open air. A seedling can be made to bear fruit in the third 
 year by grafting it, in the manner to be hereafter de- 
 scribed, upon an old stem. The seed to be sown is taken out 
 of the grapes when they are quite ripe, and kept in a box in 
 a cool place, like any other seed, until spring. It is then sown 
 in fine good earth, either in pots, and in the month of February 
 if the process is carried on in a conservatory or forcing-house, 
 or in the month of March in the open land of a garden. It 
 takes about six weeks before the little plants appear above 
 ground. When they have been grown in pots in hothoiises, 
 they may be removed to the open air when they are about 
 6 inches long, generally in May. In the second year they may 
 be transplanted from the pots into the open land. They are 
 allowed to grow unchecked for two seasons, whereby they 
 acquire much wood and root. In the third year of open cul- 
 ture, the fourth of growth, they are cut the first time and 
 may yield fruit. They come to full bearing in the sixth year. 
 
 Propagation by means of Eyes. 
 Eyes may be cut from vines as represented in the engraving 
 
58 
 
 PROP A GA TION BY E YES. 
 
 [chap- 
 
 (Fig. 9), and planted in open beds and vineyards. Such will, 
 in one season, form a small vine with par- 
 ticularly great development of roots, as 
 shown in the next engraving (Fig. 10). 
 
 An improvement on the foregoing is the 
 specifically English method of propagating 
 
 Fig. g.— Eye ready for vincs, which whcn practised in forcing-houses 
 
 planting in open beds ' _ ^ ^ 
 
 invineyards. (Natu- yields in onc year a strong vine, capable 
 
 ral size.) 
 
 next year, 
 
 of bearing twelve bunches of grapes the 
 The eyes to be " struck " are selected from well- 
 ripened wood ; the cane is cut 
 right across about half an inch 
 above and below the eye, and 
 then a small slice taken off 
 the side of it, longitudinally 
 opposite the eye : this slice 
 in the practice of some gar- 
 deners amounts to half the 
 wood, so that the cut passes 
 through the marrow cavity, 
 in the manner represented by 
 Fig. II, p. 59. 
 
 The English viticulturists 
 place these eyes in pots filled 
 with light turfy loam and a 
 small portion of thoroughly 
 decayed leaf mould. When 
 the pot is filled with this soil, 
 they make a hole of the size 
 of a walnut in the centre of 
 it, fill it up with fine white 
 sand, and place the eye into 
 this sand so that all the wood 
 is buried and nothing but the 
 eye projects. Some also cover 
 up the eye with a little com- 
 It is a striking testimony in favour of our ideal soil 
 described, when Thomson says that cuttings form 
 
 Fig. 10 — ^Young Vine, one summer's growth, 
 from eye planted in open bed in vineyard. 
 (Reduced to one-tenth of natural size.) 
 
 post, 
 above 
 
II.] 
 
 ENGLISH METHOD. 
 
 59 
 
 callus sooner in sand than loam, and throw out more roots 
 also. 
 
 When thus potted in January, says Thomson, they may for 
 a time stand in any convenient corner of a peach-house or 
 vinery just started. By the 1st of February they should be 
 plunged in tan, or some other medium affording a bottom 
 heat of 90° F. and placed as near the glass as possible. 
 With an atmospheric temperature of 5 5° at night, rising to 70° 
 by day, the buds will soon appear above the soil. Cotempo- 
 raneously with the development of leaves, roots will be emitted 
 all round the edges of the 
 bud where it starts from the 
 wood. At this stage the 
 plants must be kept well 
 watered, and the bottom heat 
 be moderated by shaking the 
 pots in the tan in which they 
 are embedded. When the 
 plants have four leaves deve- 
 loped, the pots are raised out 
 of the plunging material, and 
 though they will not make 
 such rapid growth as if left 
 in the bottom heat, they will 
 make a much safer one. The 
 pots are soon full of roots, 
 but the plants should not be shifted into larger pots till they 
 have begun to grow afresh after the stand they make when the 
 available energy in the bud is exhausted, and before the young 
 roots and newly developed leaves have begun to supply more. 
 If shifted before this second growth begins, they frequently 
 stand still for a month, and often end in premature ripening 
 at the neck, and refusing to start into a healthy second growth 
 at all. During the most active time of growth they are 
 watered with a well-stirred mixture of water and cow-dung. 
 
 If it is intended merely to produce a vine for transplanting, 
 the pots into which the young vines are shifted should be 
 8 inches in diameter at the top ; if, however, it is intended 
 
 Fig. it. — Eye and slice of cane ready or 
 being embedded in earth. Pot of earth with 
 the eye embedded, plunged in tan. 
 
6o ENGLISH METHOD OF PROPAGATION. [chap. 
 
 to grow grapes on the vine in the pot the next year, the pot 
 should be i8 inches in diameter. Thomson advises to cut all 
 such forced vines back to one foot, as soon as they are six 
 feet in length, as they will start afresh and make much finer 
 and more fruitful canes than if allowed to grow on ; the 
 laterals as they appear should be stopped at one joint. These 
 laterals will break again, and should be pinched so as to leave 
 another joint. When the canes become brown, and all the 
 symptoms of ripening show themselves, the whole of the 
 lateral branches may be cut off, care being taken not to 
 injure the leaves which spring from the main stem, as their 
 office is to fill out the buds which are to produce fruit next 
 season. The vines are then kept in a cool protected airy 
 place, until wanted for transplanting into the open air, vine- 
 yards, vineries, or hot-houses, or until it is desired to fruit 
 them in the pots. For the latter purpose they are allowed a 
 cane of five feet in length. 
 
 It is evident that this method of obtaining vines from eyes 
 is the most expeditious known, and, as the vines bear in the 
 next year from eight to twelve bunches each, also the most 
 profitable to the capitalist. Whereas, ordinarily, a vineyard 
 takes from five to six years before it can be got into 
 bearing condition, by the English method any vineyard 
 can be got into bearing in the second year. Such a vine- 
 yard will therefore bring four harvests, amongst them three 
 full ones, before a vineyard planted with cut canes will 
 bring one, and will thereby not only repay the first outlay 
 on the forcing-houses and the" interest of the cost of the 
 land, but also leave a large profit. 
 
 Propagation by means of Cut Canes. 
 
 The most common, because least troublesome and cheapest, 
 method of multiplying vines is by the planting of cut canes 
 (French, boutures ; German, Blindholz). Fig. 12 represents 
 two varieties of such canes, — one a simple piece of a one- 
 year cane about \\ feet in length, and carrying from 7 to 9 
 nodes ; the other a cane of similar length, but provided 
 with a piece of the previous year's wood from which it has 
 
11.] 
 
 PROPAGATION BY CUT CANES. 
 
 6i 
 
 sprung (French, crossette). These canes are obtained at the 
 time when the vines are cut, in open viticulture generally 
 in March, but frequently already in autumn. The strongest 
 and healthiest of them are selected, tied in bundles, and 
 buried in a horizontal position, a foot deep in the earth, for 
 a month or two ; this is done to arrest their growth until the 
 time of planting arrives. When this has been determined 
 on, say early in May, they are dug out, and placed with their 
 lower end up to one-third of their height in water, until the 
 eyes have swelled to the size of peas. Just before planting, 
 two longitudinal slices of bark four inches 
 long are cut off the sides where there are 
 
 no eyes at the lower end, and the canes 
 
 are then immediately put under ground, 
 
 the uppermost eye alone being allowed 
 
 to project above ground, and being pro- 
 tected by some sort of short stake from 
 
 rough mechanical injury. This planting of 
 
 canes is done with more or less care, and 
 
 succeeds accordingly. Sometimes a mere 
 
 hole is bored with an iron rod, and the 
 
 cane plunged in and trodden firm with 
 
 the foot. In other cases the cane, placed 
 
 in the hole made as before, is surrounded 
 
 with soft earth or sand. Or the canes are 
 
 planted in ditches, which are then filled 
 
 up with made soil or compost. This 
 
 latter method is to be recommended in 
 
 nurseries for young vines, where the canes 
 
 come to stand in lines, the lines being a 
 
 yard and the canes a foot from each other. 
 
 Fig. 12. — Cut Canes, 
 ready for being planted. 
 
 Propagation by means of Layers. 
 
 The third mode of propagating vines is by layers (French, 
 marcotte; German, Senkrebe). A long cane, still in connection 
 with the vine on which it grew, is partly buried in the 
 earth, and caused to grow roots, after which its connection 
 with the mother vine may be severed. 
 
62 
 
 PROP AG A TION BY LA VERS. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 For this purpose the canes nearest to the soil are most 
 commonly available, but when the old wood has grown very- 
 long, it offers no difficulty to the bending down. The interring 
 of wood older than one year has no advantage, as it does not 
 easily grow roots. But when the one-year cane is too short 
 to furnish the layer by itself, a portion of second or third 
 year wood may be interred without disadvantage, but must 
 be cut off when the young vine is severed and transplanted. 
 This method of laying offers an easy way for rejuvenescing 
 old vines grown against the walls of houses. When the young 
 vines produced by laying are cut off, the stumps of old wood 
 may be made useful by grafting, or the grafting may 
 be effected already at the time of the laying. In the first 
 year the layer is allowed but two eyes above ground ; of the 
 two shoots the weakest is pinched, but not suppressed. After 
 transplanting the young vine is allowed only two eyes to 
 the strongest shoot ; it should not be allowed to bear fruit 
 before the third year. 
 
 Such young vines by 
 layers are prepared for 
 sale by being immersed in 
 a split basket filled with 
 earth and buried in the 
 earth. In the autumn or 
 spring following they can 
 be severed by a cut and 
 removed, basket and all, 
 without disturbingthe roots. 
 The entire lump, vine, earth, 
 basket and all, is placed 
 into a strong fresh basket, 
 and sent to its destination. 
 There it may be planted 
 with the old basket, which 
 will not interfere with the 
 development of the vine, 
 but furnish a little manure 
 
 Fig. 13. — Vine, ons of the canes of which ha": 
 been buried to form a layer. A signalizes the point 
 at which the cane is separated after the layer has 
 struck root. 
 
 by slow decay. 
 
II.] EYE-GRAFTING AND INARCHING. 63 
 
 This laying differs from provining by affecting only a part 
 of the vine, one or two of its canes, while its principal stem 
 remains undisturbed and above ground. But in provining 
 the entire vine is put under ground, and nothing but one or 
 two of its canes allowed to appear above ground for the 
 purpose of forming a new vine. This latter method is 
 habitually used in the Champagne. 
 
 Multiplication by grafting. 
 This process implies the existence of a rooted vine of 
 some years of age, which it is desired to change in character 
 either wholly or partly. The processes applicable to effect 
 this object are essentially the same in result, but differ in 
 mode. We distinguish four varieties : (i) Eye-grafting, 
 or inoculating ; (2) Simple inarching, or healing together ; 
 
 (3) Compound inarching by means of wedge-like chips ; 
 
 (4) Grafting in grooves. 
 
 (i) Eye-grafting.— This process is the same as that 
 commonly applied to the multiplication of roses. An eye 
 is cut out of the cane adhering to a thin slice of wood, and 
 immediately fixed in a freshly made aperture in the bark of 
 the old vine so that the wood of the eye-bearing slice closely 
 touches the old wood, and the thin edges of the cut are 
 underneath and covered by the previously peeled off living 
 bark. In the case of the roses the little shce of wood inside 
 the eye is removed, but in the case of vines this wood is left. 
 Care is to be taken to perform this operation with perfectly 
 clean and sharp knives, and to plunge the cut eye immediately 
 into the wound in the bark. Any impurity from the knife and 
 more than a few seconds' contact of the surfaces with the air 
 hazard the success of the operation. 
 
 (2) Simple inarching is a process similar to the operation 
 known in surgery as the Taliacotian operation for the restora- 
 tion of a nose out of the skin of the forearm. Two vines pre- 
 viously distinct are to be united, and, when this has been 
 effected, one foot and the other top is to be removed or sup- 
 pressed. The vines are brought into a convenient position 
 with regard to each other, and then a slice, amounting to nearly 
 
64 INARCHING AND GRAFTING. [chap. 
 
 half the thickness, is taken off the side of each with a sharp 
 and clean knife, with the precaution that the wounds have the 
 same length and breadth. The wounds are now brought in 
 close apposition. A tie is then placed above the wounds, and 
 another below them ; these ties are to enable the operator to 
 take off the main middle bandages at any time without en- 
 dangering any soft adhesions which may have been formed. 
 The whole length of the wounds is now bandaged rather firmly 
 with tapes of soft matting. As the vines grow and union takes 
 place these bandages have to be slackened and renewed. The 
 growth of the stock on which the new vine is inarched may 
 be stopped at a few eyes past its point of junction with the 
 new one. The union is generally complete in a month, when 
 the bandage may be taken off, but the tie above and below 
 should be retained for some time afterwards. When the 
 young vine shows by its vigorous growth that it is deriving 
 supplies of sap from its new parent, its connection with its 
 own roots may be half severed, and by the end of the season 
 cut off entirely. 
 
 (3) Compound inarching by means of wedge-like chips. 
 This method effects a better union than the foregoing, but is 
 more difficult of execution. The vines are put into suitable 
 position, and a wound is made upon each in the place where 
 they are to meet. A wedge-shaped slice is now cut from the 
 wound of one vine from below upwards, having its base or 
 thicker end at the upper end of the wound without being 
 detached from the wood, and without being fractured. From 
 the wound of the other vine an exactly similar slice is now 
 cut, but in the opposite direction, namely from above down- 
 wards. The two tongues or wedges of wood are now intro- 
 duced sideways into the clefts prepared for them ; and care 
 being taken that all parts fit easily and closely, and par- 
 ticularly that on one side the lines separating bark from wood 
 are exactly placed upon each other, the wounds are closely 
 united by ties above and below, and by bandages of soft 
 matting. The rest of the treatment is as described for. simple 
 inarching. 
 
 (4) Grafting in grooves is' similar to the grafting in split 
 
I] 
 
 GRAFTING IN GROOVES. 
 
 6S 
 
 wood which is* usually applied to fruit-trees. It is pre- 
 ferred in the case of the vine to the grafting in splits, 
 because these latter do not heal so well, and the opening of 
 the marrow cavity leads easily to internal decay. The vine 
 or branch to be grafted is cut off transversely at a convenient 
 height above the soil, and by means of a hook-shaped gouging 
 chisel a smooth groove about five inches in length, and 
 intended for the reception of the graft, is cut into the stump 
 or stock. Into this groove is now fitted either a simple piece 
 of cane entirely detached, but long enough to 
 stand in the earth, with three of its lowermost 
 eyes, or the cane of a rooted young plant, which 
 can be planted close to the foot of the stock. 
 The cane or plant is denuded of its bark over the 
 surface where it is to come into contact with 
 the groove in the stock. When everything fits 
 closely the ties and bandages are applied ; three 
 eyes are left to the graft above the union. 
 
 In all cases it is desirable to cover the entire 
 place of union with some soft wax, or some pre- 
 paration of mastic, in order to exclude the air, 
 retain sufficient moisture at the place of union, 
 and prevent an excessive flow of sap. This 
 kind of grafting can be executed upon any 
 branch of any vine at any height above the 
 soil. The graft may be detached absolutely, and 
 not dip into any earth or water at all ; or it may 
 dip into a lump of moss kept wet, or into a pot 
 of earth ; or a young vine in a pot or a layer in 
 a basket as described may be used, and fixed at 
 a convenient height while union is taking place, 
 and subsequently cut off and used elsewhere. 
 
 Some viticulturists have stated that grafting 
 could not be successfully practised above ground, 
 but that any vine on being grafted must be provined, i.e. 
 buried in the earth entirely, including particularly the joint 
 of grafting. On investigation we find that this experience 
 and prescription refers to the mode of grafting which 
 
 r 
 
 Fig, 14. — Hook- 
 shaped goug- 
 ing chisel for 
 producing 
 grooves for 
 grafting. 
 
66 
 
 GRAFTING IN GROO VES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 inserts two wedge-shaped canes into the split stock, and of 
 which we have already stated the disadvantages when it 
 is so practised, that the joint is left above ground. The 
 principal objection to grafting with interring, appears to be 
 that the new vine will have its own permanent roots, will 
 thereby soon dispense with the sap of the stock, and therefore 
 lose the influence and advantages of the latter. But in that 
 case the use of grafting would be limited to giving to the 
 young plant a start by the immediate introduction of made 
 
 Fig. IS- — On the left is seen a vine cut off transversely, and provided with the groove for 
 receiving tlic graft. Close lo it is the graft with the bark removed where it is to fit into 
 the groove of the stock. On ihe right is seen a rooted graft, and close to it its appear- 
 ance after planting and grafting are completed. 
 
 sap. An earlier harvest would then be the only probable 
 advantage of so laborious a proceeding. If, however, the laying 
 of the stock and graft into the ground were intended to last 
 only until a complete union had been effected, and the grafted 
 plant were then raised out of the ground and any roots cut 
 off, the process, though troublesome, would be advantageous 
 in dry situations and seasons, and in unpractised hands. 
 
II.] CULTIVATION OF THE VINE. 6; 
 
 SUMMARY OF GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF THE CULTIVATION 
 OF THE VINE. 
 
 When the soil of a piece of land intended to be formed into 
 a vineyard, or any piece of soil intended to bear a vine, has 
 been prepared in the manner indicated in a former paragraph, 
 the planting of vines may begin. For this purpose mere 
 canes may be employed, as described in the paragraph on 
 multiplication, or rooted vines taken from a nursery may be 
 used. The latter will be more costly than the canes, but 
 have the advantage of bearing a year or two sooner. Rooted 
 plants must be transferred in March, but canes, when 
 preserved under ground in the manner described, may be 
 planted at any time during March, April, May, or June. All 
 vines should be placed in parallel lines, the lines to be distant 
 from each other at least one metre, or a little more than a 
 yard ; and the single vines to be removed from each other by 
 the same interval. Plantation of vines in disorder or in 
 quincunx is not so advantageous for cultivation by the 
 plough ; but the quincunx may be employed where manual 
 labour is relied upon, and short, small vines are reared. 
 The young vines reared from canes are not cut or interfered 
 with in any way during the first three years. The vines 
 growing from rooted plants are left to themselves for two 
 years ; they are allowed to grow into a jungle or thicket, 
 and in any direction they please, but the ground is freed from 
 all weeds. This free growth is necessary to favour the utmost 
 development of the roots. The same principle is adopted by 
 gardeners when first planting vines in vineries. They allow 
 them to grow five or six canes each during the first year, 
 without pinching or shortening, and obtain vigorous wood, 
 capable of bearing much fruit in the next year (the third of the 
 vine). The vine is best pruned for the first time in the fourth 
 year of its growth, this being the third after planting in the 
 case of rooted vines. The pruning must then be mainly 
 directed to the training of the future stock, and the production 
 of a first harvest must be a subordinate consideration. Now 
 is the time when the viticulturist must choose one or other of 
 
 K 2 
 
68 GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF THE [chap. 
 
 the many methods of training the vine which we shall describe 
 in the topographical chapters. The particular principles of 
 these methods are generally the same. It is required that 
 every plant should grow every year at least two long branches : 
 of these one is to produce fruit in the next year, and no long 
 branches or wood ; while the other is to reproduce the two 
 long branches by means of which fruit and wood are to be 
 reproduced in the following year. The branch which has 
 borne fruit is cut off entirely in the spring following the 
 harvest. We now suppose the simplest case, and that the 
 viticulturist has before him the young stock, from which every- 
 thing has been cut away except the two principal branches or 
 canes. He should select the strongest for fruit, and cut it 
 down to a length not exceeding a yard, and not less than half 
 a yard, in direct proportion to the strength of the vine. This 
 fruit-branch he should now attach horizontally, near to the 
 earth, to a stretched wire, or to a couple of stakes ; the other 
 branch he should cut back to a spur of three eyes. When the 
 fruit-branch has formed its shoots and the buds of flowers 
 are seen, all shoots without flower-buds should be broken off 
 absolutely, while all others should be stopped by pinching off 
 their tops above the sixth leaf with the nails of the thumb 
 and index-finger. The shoots of the wood-spur must never 
 be pinched or cut back under any circumstances. They pro- 
 duce but few grapes, and must be kept in vertical position, 
 and tied in a bundle to a stake. This simple vine — consist- 
 ing, after pruning in spring, of a stem or foot rooted in the 
 ground, a longer cane for fruit-bearing, and a short spur for 
 wood-bearing — may be said to carry one viticultural element. 
 In practice, a single foot may be made to carry several such 
 elements. Thus in the Rhenish basket cultivation a foot 
 
 carries from three to five elements — that is, older branches on 
 
 each of which, at the time of cutting, a fruit-spur (three eyes) 
 and a wood-spur (two eyes) are left. The Mddoc vines have 
 regularly two elements, but the spreading large vines on 
 walls and in conservatories may have any number of such 
 elements, up to several hundred. It is clear that the greater 
 the number of elements on a single trunk, the greater must be 
 
II.] CULTIVATION OF THE VINE. 69 
 
 the region for the development of its roots. It is therefore 
 necessary to give to vines which are to grow on the extension 
 system a greater amount of wood under ground at the time of 
 planting, so that they may be able to form many collars of 
 roots. As the extension system involves the gradual rise up- 
 wards from the soil of the branches of the vine, it can only be 
 practised in vineries, and against walls and houses, but is not 
 suited for the growth of the vine in open vineyards, where to 
 ripen grapes they have to be kept near to the ground. Every 
 vine, with a proper element or number of elements, and which 
 occupies the required square metre of land, and receives suffi- 
 cient nourishment, ought to be able, without exhausting itself, 
 and without interfering' with the growth of neighbouring vines, 
 to produce sixteen bunches of grapes on the fruit-branch, 
 and four bunches on the wood-branch ; altogether twenty 
 bunches, weighing, on an average, fifty grammes per bunch, 
 or one kilo per vine. Three times in every growing season 
 all the branches must be tied up and fixed to the stakes and 
 wires, so that the lines may be maintained. At the same 
 time all unnecessary shoots must be carefully removed ; no 
 herbs of any kind, whether useful or weed, must be permitted 
 to grow in the vineyard. The soil must be repeatedly loosened 
 by means of the hoe or plough, but deep cultivation ought to 
 be reserved for spring and autumn. In all vineyards the pro- 
 duce of which can attain a certain minimum value — say of 
 thirty francs per hectolitre — the vines should be protected 
 against early frost, chilling of the blossom, hail, and autumnal 
 rain, by means of straw mats. These mats will also hasten 
 and make more perfect the maturity of the grapes. This 
 precaution will increase the return of any vineyard by one- 
 third on an average of twelve years, although, of course, a 
 part of this advantage will be absorbed in expenses. Every 
 year, during the time from the 15th of April to the 30th of 
 May, twenty kilos of powdered sulphate of iron or green 
 vitriol must be strewn over every hectare of vineyard. In 
 vineyards where the oldium has appeared, twenty kilos 
 of flowers of sulphur mu-st be dusted over all the vines, 
 either with bellows or fumigating machines. In autumn the 
 
70 CULTIVATION OF THE VINE. [chap. 1 1. 
 
 manure, compost, mineral nourishment, or other material 
 necessary for the improvement of the soil, must be carried 
 to each vine in proportion to the crop which the viticulturist 
 wishes to obtain ; and in an inverse ratio to the natural 
 resources of the soil. In dry situations care should be taken 
 that a supply of water be available for irrigating the vine 
 during the summer's growth. Wet vineyards should be so 
 arranged that the water can be drained away during wet 
 seasons, but retained during droughts. Select varieties of 
 vines should exclusively be cultivated. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 SPECIAL ELUCIDATION OF THE PHINCIPLES OF 
 VITICULTURE. 
 
 Cultivation of the vine in \ovi lines and on a permanent trunk. ^Provining as dis- 
 tinguished from laying and producing a new trunk. —Pruning of the vine. — Time 
 for pruning.— Pinching and cutting the new branches or shoots. —Treatment of 
 the vine during vegetation.— Support and protection of the vine. — Necessity of 
 protecting the vine against early frosts, spring rains, and hail.— Mode in which the 
 vine is touched by early .spring frosts. — Varieties of vines to be selected for cultiva- 
 tion. — Selection of the most suitable species for the different parts of France.^ 
 
 CULTIVATION OF THE VINE IN LOW LINES AND ON 
 A PERMANENT TRUNK. 
 The cultivation in lines is of all _modes the most 
 suitable for the vine, as it permits the application of all 
 the means and instruments which can be moved either by 
 the hand of man or the power of animals. Digging, hoeing 
 weeding by hand, and ploughing by means of oxen as in 
 the M^doc, or by horses or donkeys, are all possible with- 
 out producing any injury to the root or branches of the 
 vine. And whereas the cultivation of the soil by means of 
 animals can be done much more cheaply and rapidly, and, 
 we believe, much more effectually, all vineyards in situations 
 which admit of the introduction of animals should absolutely 
 be planted in lines. There are of course a great number of 
 steep slopes where men only can perform the work, but even 
 here the advantage of the plantation of vines in low lines 
 will become strikingly apparent, for the linear arrangement 
 admits of a quick inspection of the property, of the condition 
 of its cultivation, and of the work which has to be done to it. 
 By a single glance of the eye along the line of his vines 
 
 1 Compare Guyot, Viticulture ; R. Charmeux, Culture du Chasselas ; Lenoir, 
 Traite de la Culture de la Vigne. 
 
73 CULTIVATION OF THE VINE. [chap. 
 
 the proprietor ascertains the state of his plantation, and the 
 care or carelessness of his workpeople. The superintendent 
 in the same manner observes the amount of work done and 
 the manner in which it has been performed. A third reason 
 for the arrangement in straight lines is that the means of 
 protection and support are easier, stronger, and cheaper than 
 in the other arrangement. Moreover, the distribution of the 
 manure in equal proportions throughout the vineyard is 
 greatly facilitated. The cut off dry branches, the broken 
 out green branches, and the product of the vintage can be 
 carried easily out of the vineyard. Then the rays of the 
 sun can warm the soil between the lines without striking the 
 vines themselves any the less. The earth on its part gives 
 out the heat again at night which it has received during 
 the day, and thereby beneficially continues the assimi- 
 lation of the plant. Lastly, the arrangement in these low 
 lines facilitates the circulation of the air throughout the whole 
 vineyard, and thereby confers an advantage upon the vines 
 which they do not enjoy in places where they are irregularly 
 and densely planted. The principle of keeping the bearing 
 part of the vine as close to the soil as possible has been 
 recognized as true everywhere, and it has been acted upon ; 
 and we shall show in the topographical part of our treatise 
 many instances in which the neglect of this rule produces 
 bad wines even in countries where excellent wines could 
 be produced. The nearer the grape is to the soil, provided 
 always that it be out of the reach of the splash of dirt 
 caused by rain, the more it will mature and the greater 
 will be its perfection. On the other hand, the higher the 
 grape is from the soil, the more watery, acid, and flavourless 
 will it be. The viticulture of all Italy, and those cultivations 
 elsewhere which we have described as bower cultivation, are 
 striking evidences of this fact. Of course it is a necessary 
 consequence of high cultivation that the rays of the sun 
 are prevented altogether from striking the soil, and there is, 
 in the shade of the vines, a coolness and freshness which may 
 be beneficial for all kinds of vegetables ; and therefore it 
 may be useful for any man to cultivate a bower to protect 
 
III.] '■ PROVINING. 
 
 n 
 
 his vegetables, but he is sure to get bad wine. That which 
 the soil does for ■the vine in low cultivation can be effected 
 with high cultivation if it takes place against a wall. Here 
 the wall, while exposed to the sun, absorbs heat and radiates 
 it back again during the colder part of the twenty-four 
 hours. The airing of the vine is a matter of the greatest 
 importance. Crowding is as injurious to plants as to animals. 
 There are daily currents of air carried into a vineyard con- 
 taining limited quantities of carbonic acid, which is absorbed 
 by the leaves and goes to augment the body of the plants. 
 How insufficient this air is to feed vines which are very 
 much crowded can easily be seen in the Champagne, where 
 along the open paths the vines bear large grapes in great 
 numbers,- while in the interior of the densely planted vine- 
 yards, some of which contain as many as 40,000 vines per 
 hectare, the grapes are small and few in number. This shows 
 in a most striking manner the effect of crowding. 40,000 
 vines upon an hectare of land are more than double what 
 ought to be allowed on it. The low lines have the dis- 
 advantage of being more subject to the frosts of spring 
 and winter. They are not perfect unless one adds to this 
 mode of culture the use of straw mats for protection. But 
 even if this protection be omitted, they have still many 
 advantages over a higher cultivation. 
 
 PROVINING AS DI.STINGUISHED FROM LAYING AND 
 PRODUCING A NEW TRUNK. 
 
 To lay means to bury, in a trench made for the purpose, a 
 branch of a vine, which remains fixed to the trunk on which it 
 has grown, and to cover it with earth and manure, in order to 
 entice it to draw roots at all the nodes, and to grow vigorously 
 at the one or two terminal eyes which are allowed to pro- 
 ject above the ground. One or more branches of a vine 
 may thus be laid, and after separation from the original plant 
 become independent vines. But provining consists in the 
 sinking beneath the ground, to the depth of six or eight 
 inches, of the entire trunk of a vine, and of leaving only some 
 canes of the last year exposed to the air. In the Champagne, 
 
PROVINING. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 this burying of the vine is effected about every three years, 
 and in the Bourgogne as often as it is required to produce 
 young vines. According to some viticulturists, all kinds of 
 provining are hurtful to the quality of the grape, and in no 
 case is it essential for the production of quantity of wine, if 
 proper modes are adopted to supply its apparent advantages. 
 The practice of elongating the underground part of the vine 
 by successive layings, during the first two years following 
 upon the planting, is justifiable and necessary, where it is 
 intended to produce grapes on a wall, or by other high 
 cultivation ; and indeed, for the production of good eating 
 grapes, it is almost indispensable. But in none of the great 
 
 Fig. t6. — Mode of provining in the Chalrpagne. In the trench in Ihe mi(^dle are seen 
 vines with partially exposed roots leady for being sunk. On the left vines project 
 from the re-arranged ground. 
 
 vineyards of France is provining practised. In vineyards 
 where provining is carried on, such as those of the Champagne, 
 there are frequently found from 20,000 to 40,000 plants per 
 hectare, yet a vineyard with only 10,000 vines per hectare can 
 produce, and actually does produce, more than a vineyard with 
 40,000 vines. There is a minimum of space without which a 
 vine cannot exist, or at all events cannot develop itself, .so 
 as to produce perfect fruit in large quantity. It has been 
 ascertained by observation that a square metre is the smallest 
 
III.] 
 
 PROVINING. 
 
 75 
 
 space on which a single trunk of vine can be fully developed. 
 Now, wherever vines are crowded on a smaller space, they 
 cease to bear, and the consequence is that the vine-dressers 
 are obliged to make them run through the ground, and seek 
 nutriment in all parts. This is the explanation of the 
 practice of provining. Provining, therefore, is suitable only 
 for very poor soils, and is a mere waste of labour where a 
 good trunk can be developed and maintained. When a trunk 
 is developed on a square yard of soil, the whole territory 
 which it pervades with roots is equal to a cubic yard. Nay, 
 it strikes even deeper than that, and we have seen roots of 
 vines which have penetrated for two or three yards into the 
 
 Fig. i7. — Vine trained according to the system of Guyot, as it appears in autumn, after 
 removal of fruit and leaves. 
 
 narrow crevices of rock on which the soil was situated. Such 
 a vine is vigorous. The iield from which it can extract 
 fertility is many times greater than that which is at the 
 disposal of a vine constantly reduced to surface roots. It is 
 not subject to the influence of drought, and its age, under 
 all circumstances, will be much greater than that of the 
 provined plant. The provining of the Champagne has 
 been tried in the Rhenish districts, and has nowhere yet 
 been found to answer. 
 
76 PRUNING. [CHAP. 
 
 PRUNING OF THE VINE. 
 
 In almost every manner of vine-pruning the principle has 
 been observed that there should be a long cane for the bear- 
 ing of fruit, and a short spur for the production of canes for 
 the next year. A trunk which stands in a cubic metre of soil 
 is capable of producing a great many branches, which would 
 cover a much greater surface than a square metre. It is 
 therefore necessary to retrench the growth of this plant by 
 means of the knife, and to direct its activity to the pro- 
 duction of perfect fruit. If left to natural growth, without 
 any restraint by the knife, the vine remains very fertile, but 
 the fruit is always small and sour, and ripens very much 
 later than that of the cultivated plant. This is even the 
 case with a vine the cutting of which has been omitted 
 only once. In the second year its fruit is numerous but 
 small, and its canes are thin and unsatisfactory. 
 
 Now we will assume a vine trained according to the 
 system particularly advocated by Guyot. It has grown four 
 upright branches, and its horizontal fruit-branch has had five 
 shoots with fifteen grapes. This horizontal branch, shown in 
 the drawing (p. 75), is cut off as near as possible to the trunk 
 of the vine. Of the other four branches of wood, that one is 
 selected which yields with the greatest ease to the horizontal 
 deflection, and fulfils the conditions of a fruit-branch, namely, 
 that of having large nodes and well-developed eyes. It is 
 not necessary that this branch should be the thickest as 
 regards its wood. This branch is now left as long as 
 possible up to a length of one metre, and is tied down in 
 the manner which is illustrated in Fig. 18, next page. 
 
 Of the remaining upright branches two are now cut away 
 entirely, and one is cut off above its second eye, counting 
 from the trunk. The trunk now represents the figure shown 
 in the drawing. A vine dressed for the summer growth, there- 
 fore, consists of nothing but a trunk, a bearing branch of a 
 metre in length, and a spur for the growth of wood. It some- 
 times happens — and we have observed such cases in the Graves 
 of the Bordelais — that cultivation according to this system is 
 
III.] 
 
 PRUNING. 
 
 77 
 
 made impossible for a season by meteoric accidents. Thus, 
 at Carbonnieux, much of the wood which could have yielded 
 bearing-branches had been broken by hail, and on many vines 
 there was no wood at all from which to cut a bearing-branch. 
 In that case the vine-dresser has to cut the vine in such a 
 manner that the greater part of the growth may be upright in 
 order to produce new bearing-branches for the next year. 
 This method, recommended by Guyot, has been practised 
 with an incontestable success by himself as well as by others, 
 and we have seen its effects, particularly at Carbonnieux. 
 
 Fig. i8.— Vine trained according to the system of Guyot, as it appears 
 after being pruned. 
 
 Even old vineyards which were hitherto cultivated upon the 
 irregular system of the Bourgogne are now being redressed 
 upon this system, and in the notable case of M. de la Loyere, 
 for example, the following result has been attained. The 
 vines cultivated by the ordinary method produced two ; the 
 vines cultivated by Guyot's method produced in the first year 
 four, in the second year seven. The dressing of the vine leads 
 to the uniform experience that the shorter it is cut the more 
 wood it will grow, and the longer it is kept the more fruit will 
 it bear. A vine may be so exharusted by long cutting that it 
 
78 PRUNING. [CHAP. 
 
 produces little or no wood for the next year, and of course 
 the prospect of a second harvest will be very questionable. It 
 is therefore necessary that the vine-dresser should find out 
 for each vine, or species of vine, what is the amount of pruning 
 which it ought to undergo in order that it shall produce each 
 year a proper amount of grapes, and at the same time a proper 
 amount of wood for the next year. In this respect no special 
 rules can be established. The vine-dresser must know his 
 vine, and, if possible, some of its history, and then exercise 
 his judgment for its benefit. If a vine is Cut short altogether 
 it grows much wood, just as the one branch on the one trunk, 
 if cut short, grows much wood. It is a result of observation of 
 most kinds of vines that those eyes which are farthest removed 
 from the trunk are the most fructiferous, and that the first two 
 or three eyes nearest to the trunk do not contain the embryos 
 for much fruit. Even if the lower eyes produce fruit, it is 
 mostly small in size and late, and not so good in quality as that 
 which is produced in the upper eyes of the cane. This fact 
 has so much astoni.shed many viticulturists that they have 
 torn out the good vines which adhered most strenuously to this 
 rule, and have planted in their stead vines which are fructi- 
 ferous in all eyes, even in those nearest to the trunk. Among 
 these latter are the Gamay, and some other common vines 
 which enjoy the privilege of producing grapes in every eye, 
 be it the first or the last, or be it an eye just pushed from the 
 old wood. Whatever may have been the frost of the winter, 
 or whatever may have been the cutting, short or long, the 
 Gamay produces always. Guyot asserts that the finest vines 
 possess as much fruit, and can bring forth as many grapes as 
 the commonest qualities, but they do not bring fruit in the 
 same place, and do not yield it under the same conditions 
 of cutting. They have their finest embryos in the highest 
 parts of the canes, which are far away from the soil. 
 When these canes are lowered in the proper season, in 
 their whole extent they produce an abundant and valuable 
 harvest. If the viticulturist desires to . have only four 
 fructiferous eyes upon a cane of one metre in length, 
 he should not cut off the eyes farthest removed from 
 
III.] TIME FOR PRUNING. , 79 
 
 the trunk, but those which are nearest to it, and leave the 
 
 four eyes farthest off. Among the fine vines the first four 
 
 eyes are almost always sterile, while the four last are almost 
 
 always fertile. When a vine-dresser cuts his vine upon spurs 
 
 of one or two eyes, he cuts off his best harvest. The long 
 
 branch, or fruit-branch, satisfies the longing of the vine for an 
 
 expansive and vagabond existence, and maintains its strength, 
 
 and thereby its fecundity. Near Samur, Guyot observed vines 
 
 in lines which were trained along little palisades. They ran 
 
 on the earth to distances of 20 yards, and they ran together, 
 
 groups of five or six being tied together here and there by 
 
 means of osiers. Yet each of these long vines had only one 
 
 terminal cane, and sometimes a second spur. In this manner 
 
 each vine produced its fruit only at distances of 10, IJ, and 20 
 
 metres from its foundation in the ground. The vine-dressers 
 
 explained, in answer to Guyot's inquiries, that they were 
 
 obliged to let the fine plants run, and particularly the Pineau, 
 
 for if they cut them short they would be sterile. Here and there 
 
 upon these rows of Pineaus there were planted Gamays, and 
 
 they were all cut short. " The Gamays we must cut to make 
 
 much wine," said the men, "and the Pineaus we must let run 
 
 to get good wine." The Samur people run the Pineau above 
 
 ground as the Champagne people run it below ground; but 
 
 the Samur people were so far the more prudent that they did 
 
 not allow the vine to draw many collars of new roots. 
 
 TIME FOR PRUNING. 
 The pruning should be effected as late as possible if 
 the cultivator wishes to know what he is about, and wants 
 to produce flower-buds (German, Schein ; French, montre). 
 If he can employ the regular means of protection against 
 the frosts of spring, he should effect his pruning only a 
 few days previous to the filling and opening of the buds ; 
 that is, between the 15 th of March and the iSth of April, in 
 cHmates similar to that of Paris. Some viticulturists are 
 afraid of the effect of the bleeding of the vine. We have 
 ourselves always obviated that by rapidly passing a red-hot 
 iron over the cut surface, which produced an instantaneous 
 
8o TIME FOR PRUNING. [chap. 
 
 arrest of the exudation of the sap ; but experiments related 
 by Guyot and made by M. Dugue, the chief engineer of the 
 Department of the Marne, show that this is by no means 
 necessary. One hundred and twenty vines of the same age 
 in the same territory were cut, one-half being cut with a long 
 cane and a spur, the other half with three spurs of one and 
 two eyes, before any movement of the sap had taken place. 
 Sixty vines which stood in a line by the side of the former, 
 were cut upon three spurs of one and two eyes in such a 
 manner that they all bled profusely. Sixty vines by the side 
 of these were cut in the same manner, and immediately 
 cauterized with a red-hot iron. Lastly, sixty vines were cut 
 with one spur and one long branch during the rising of the 
 sap. The branches and the fruit of the vines which had been 
 cut in this last manner, when compared with the sixty which 
 had been cut long before the sap had got into motion, were 
 not inferior to the others. On the contrary, those which had 
 been cut short and cauterized evidently yielded branches 
 which were less vigorous than those of the vines cut similarly 
 and not cauterized, and these, latter short-cut vines gave 
 hardly any fruit compared with those which had been cut 
 with long wood. It is upon the basis of these and other 
 observations that Guyot states that the bleeding of the vine 
 is not only not hurtful to it, but in most cases beneficial. 
 This being the case, one of the ordinary inducements to cut 
 early in February, March, and so forth, or even in autumn, as 
 is done in the Gironde, entirely disappears. If the viticul- 
 turist can cut at the time that the sap rises he is able to do 
 his vines a great benefit, inasmuch as he is able to judge of 
 the condition of the eyes. How often are three or four lower 
 eyes spoiled by the severity of the winter, but the upper eyes 
 are hardly ever spoiled ; and as the fact of whether they are 
 spoiled or not can best be ascertained by seeing them swelling 
 in spring, or remaining immovable, the period at which that 
 can be seen should always be awaited. Indeed, there is no 
 disadvantage in late pruning. Pruning may be as well 
 effected in April as at the end of May, when all the eyes 
 have shot forth and exhibit their shows. One can then select 
 
ni.J 
 
 PINCHING AND CUTTING. 
 
 all the fruit, leaving no more than is necessary or convenient 
 to the strength of the vine, and remove all that is unnecessary 
 or hurtful. The experiments of Guyot made on nine acres of 
 old vineyard at Argenteuil, in 1845 to 1847, were extremely 
 successful. The sterile branches were all broken off between 
 the 15th of May and the isth of June. The fruit-branch 
 was then chosen and laid down horizontally, and the other 
 branches were cut off, taking care to leave only two or three 
 wood-growing branches. 
 
 PINCHING AND CUTTING THE NEW BRANCHES OR SHOOTS. 
 
 The wood-branches are never cut or pinched during their 
 
 period of growth. They are allowed to attain the full size. 
 
 --r^^l^^^t^'l^^^^^l^^^'r 
 
 Fig. 19. — ^Vine trained according to the system of Guyot, as it appears at the period ot 
 growth when the flower buds are developed and pinching may be effected. 
 
 All the shoots of the fruit-branch are cut above the sixth 
 leaf Two methods are in use to effect this purpose. One, 
 called pinching, consists in taking off the point of the shoot 
 at the time it is no bigger than a lentil, with the nails of 
 the thumb and index-finger. The other consists in allowing 
 the branch to attain a greater size and then cutting ofT every 
 part of the branch above the sixth leaf The latter operation 
 has been known much longer than the former. Although 
 
 G 
 
82 PINCHING AND CUTTING [chap. 
 
 invented about fifty years ago, the effect of the pinching has 
 not been well studied until the last fifteen years. The appli- 
 cation of this method is by no means so general as it 
 ought to be. 
 
 The object of the pinching is to prevent the vegetable 
 juices from producing an exuberant branch which is quite 
 useless, and to force all the juice into the fruit on the one 
 side, and into the remaining leaves, eyes, and branches on 
 the other side, thereby to assure the formation, increase the 
 volume, and quicken the evolution, ripening, and perfection 
 of these latter. This method has been employed for a long 
 time, with the greatest success, in the production of melons, 
 peas, tomatoes, and a great many other vegetables. At 
 Argenteuil the fig-trees are pinched, and at the same time 
 no more figs are left on them than they are likely to bring to 
 perfection. On the effects of pinching Guyot hzis made some 
 interesting experiments. When all the branches of a vine are 
 pinched in one year, and not a single branch is allowed to 
 grow to long wood, all the grapes grow well and the harvest 
 of the first year is abundant, provided that the number of 
 grapes does not exceed the strength of the vine. In the 
 second year the grapes are fewer in number, more transparent, 
 and smaller. In the third year the vine has lost its vigour, 
 and its eyes are almost entirely barren. It remains in this 
 state any number of years if pinched, and it does not become 
 fertile until it is allowed to grow out. The more vigorous the 
 vine was when pinching began, the more rapidly it becomes 
 sterile. But if this operation is performed at a different 
 period, and in a different manner, it has different effects. 
 If all the branches are allowed to grow as far as the first sap 
 will carry them, and are then all broken off, the only effect 
 produced upon the vine is that the second sap goes more into 
 the fruit, and the fertility of the vine remains undamaged. 
 But it is by far the best course to apply both methods to the 
 fruit-branch only. We therefore advise that every vine- 
 grower should allow all the shoots of the fruit-branch to 
 attain the size which the first sap will give them, and should 
 then cut them off two eyes above the last show ; that he 
 
III.] NEW BRANCHES OR SHOOTS. 83 
 
 should entirely break off all barren branches, but that he 
 should not in any way or at any time shorten or interfere 
 with the upright wood-branches. The exact period at which 
 the pinching or cutting off of the fruit-branches should be 
 carried out is subject to variation. It should be borne in 
 mind, however, that it may have a beneficial influence upon 
 the blossom by giving it more juice, and thereby preventing 
 its falling off. Probably, therefore, in most cases the time 
 before the blossoming would be the most suitable for breaking 
 off these surplus branches. It is a singular fact that when 
 an eye grows from old wood, and even becomes a very fine 
 branch, it never bears fruit in the first year. This first 
 branch, when producing secondary branches in the, second 
 year, also leaves them always barren. It is not until the 
 third year and the third wood that such a shoot becomes 
 fertile. It seems that the old wood does not possess (except 
 in Muscatels and Gamays) the elements which are necessary 
 for the production of fruit, and that the second year's wood 
 has almost lost them. It is exclusively the one-year canes, 
 and of these the upper extremities most remote from the 
 trunk, which have fertile dispositions. There is also a kind 
 of luxuriant wood with very distant nodes and wide marrow 
 canals, which resembles the old wood in its want of fertility. 
 Such wood is always cut off by the experienced vine-dresser. 
 Now whereas good wood is necessary for the production 
 of good grapes, such wood must be produced in the first 
 instance. The production of wood is 'the dominating ante- 
 cedent of the production of fruit. If the fruit-branch be not 
 moderated by pinching in the first development, or before 
 blossom time, the development of the branches becomes 
 enormous, and ends in exhausting the vine. Pinching must 
 therefore never be omitted. If the first pinching is pre- 
 ferred, it should be done as soon as the two small leaves 
 above the second shows of grapes are developed ; and if there 
 is only one grape, then it must be done above the fifth or 
 sixth leaf of the branch. In general it may be said that the 
 most convenient time for pinching is between the 15th and 
 30th of May in the North of France, and between the 15th 
 
 G 2 
 
84 TREATMENT DURING [chap. 
 
 of April and the 1st of May in the South of France. As 
 these branches of the fruit-branch frequently begin to grow 
 again from their new eyes, it is necessary now. and then to 
 break off the new shoots or laterals, and never to leave them 
 more than four or five leaves each. The great prescription 
 may be expressed in the following words : the vine-dresser 
 must never leave useless branches in which the sap can be 
 lost. Here an important caution is to be observed. The small 
 corner branches (laterals) which grow from the green wood 
 should never be broken off at the shoulder which the leaf 
 forms with the branch from which they start, but they should 
 only be pinched at their ends, and three or four leaves should 
 be left to them. They serve to attract the sap to the eye 
 which forms at their base for the following year. They 
 moreover protect the eye, and are in no wise hurtful to it 
 if so treated; for experience demonstrates that such eyes 
 contain the greatest possible number of fruit shows. 
 
 TREATMENT OF THE VINE DURING VEGETATION. 
 The general rule for the conduct of the vineyard during 
 this period must be not to suffer any useless vegetation 
 on the soil of the vineyard, and not to allow any 
 excessive growth on the vine itself. The absolute clean- 
 ness of the soil from the first period of vegetation to 
 the end of it, as regards either weeds or subsidiary crops, 
 is one of the first conditions of the success of the vine. 
 In this respect, as well as in others, small viticulturists 
 frequently commit the greatest faults. They plant or 
 allow subsidiary growths between the vines, and thereby 
 destroy more of the quality of their wine than they gain 
 by these products. The soil of the vineyard must be 
 weeded by the hand, and for that purpose the weeders 
 should be supplied with a small fork by which they can 
 loosen an inch or two of the soil to extract the roots of the 
 weeds. If there are no weeds, the mere digging up of the 
 land in a superficial manner is sometimes advantageous to 
 admit air and warmth, especially after many rains have 
 rather beaten down the soil. The stirring of the surface 
 
IH.] VEGETATION. 8^ 
 
 must be avoided during the time of drought, as it would 
 then increase the evaporation and possibly injure the vine. 
 In countries, however, with a wet subsoil, the frequent and 
 even deep stirring of the top soil is most beneficial. Thus, 
 in the Palus of the Gironde all the weeding can be done by 
 the plough, while in the upper Douro it has to be cautiously 
 done with the mattock, and at Riidesheim with the hand 
 and a small fork. In parts where the soil dries out, such as 
 steep slopes, it is, on the contrary, advantageous to maintain 
 the moisture of the soil by compressing it, laying slabs of 
 stone upon it, and keeping all the paths covered by turf. 
 The necessity of removing useless branches from the vine 
 is absolute, inasmuch as their presence prevents the sun 
 from striking the soil and the useful parts of the vine. They 
 keep up a coolness and moisture, and thereby retard the 
 general progress of the plant. How weeds and useless 
 branches may combine to destroy the finest climatic advan- 
 tages we have fully described in connection with the vine- 
 yards of Croatia. The French have plenty of similar vine- 
 yards, among them those of the Touraine, where old and 
 venerable vines are covered by a luxuriant growth of branches 
 which fall in heavy bushes to the ground, and where the 
 adhesion of the rods to each other by means of tendrils 
 makes the vineyards impenetrable thickets. The time for 
 all these operations must of course be selected. Weeding 
 ought not to be done when the ground is wet, so as to hang 
 to the instruments and the feet, nor when the soil is too dry, 
 so that the weeds are torn off rather than drawn out together 
 with their roots. After abundant rains the vineyard must 
 always be allowed to dry first before the workmen are 
 re-admitted to it; for when earth adheres to the feet and 
 tools it is thereby made in many cases — particularly in 
 chalky soils— so hard that the after vegetation is impaired. 
 During frost, whether strong or feeble, the vineyard ought 
 not to be dug round, or treated with the mattock, or hoed. 
 In spring, as long as there is hoar frost in the morning, no 
 cultivation of the soil ought to be undertaken even for some 
 hours after the frost has been melted by the sun. If the 
 
86 . SUPPORT AND [chap 
 
 earth of a vineyard be interfered with at the improper time, 
 so much cold may be admitted into the pores of the earth 
 that the vines may become subject to spring frosts, which 
 would not have happened if they had had their proper 
 protection in the earth. In a similar manner the earth 
 must not be opened while there is snow or hail, or while 
 there are fogs which deposit ice. All these proceedings, 
 if taken at the improper time, would have a lasting injurious 
 action upon the vine. In respect to all the operations per- 
 formed on the vine in the vineyard the viticulturist must 
 select, as every good gardener must, his proper day and hour. 
 The pinching of fruit-branches and laterals should be done 
 at the time when the sun is not too burning — therefore 
 under a covered sky, and if possible at a time when rain is 
 approaching, so that the sudden deprivation of many leaves 
 may not leave the plant in a somewhat defenceless and 
 sometimes drooping state. 
 
 SUPPORT AND PROTECTION OF THE VINE. 
 The rods of the vine require a support. Without this 
 they would mostly lie on the ground, forming an im- 
 penetrable thicket, and their fruit would be contaminated 
 by the mud. Moreover, they would very frequently break- 
 off, and the loss of organs thus engendered would seri- 
 ously interfere with the progress of the vine. All care 
 ful viticulturists, therefore, fix their vines to stakes, the 
 one-year wood immediately after the cutting, and the 
 fresh growth as soon as it has attained proportions fit for 
 the operation. In most parts of France and Germany 
 each vine is fixed to a single stake. This seems to be 
 the most faulty method of all, for here all the branches at 
 a certain height above the ground are tied together into one 
 thick mass, into which neither air nor light can penetrate, 
 and which is therefore, physiologically speaking, dead. 
 In other parts — for example at Chablis and Wiirzburg — 
 a single vine is mostly provided with from three to five 
 stakes, to each of which a branch of the vine is tied. We 
 shall relate how at Wiirzburg the four stakes were at one 
 
m.] PROTECTION OF THE VINE. 87 
 
 time standing irregularly, and were afterwards put into line. 
 In Chablis and on the Upper Moselle the line has, however, 
 not yet been established. According to the method proposed 
 by Guyot ten thousand vines are planted on the hectare, and 
 these receive 20,CXX) stakes. Of these ten thousand are short 
 stakes, of half a metre to f ths of a metre in length. They are 
 sunk into the earth from 15 to 25 centimetres, in a line with 
 the vines, and at a distance of one metre from each other. 
 This small stake, which is called in the Mddoc carasson, serves 
 to attach the fruit-branch at a distance of lo or 12 centi- 
 
 Fig. ao. — Line of Vines trained according to the system of Guyot, with stakes and wires, 
 in full bearing. All shoots of the horizontal fruit-branches are pinched above the wire. 
 
 metres from the soil, and to carry somewhat higher than the 
 fruit-branch, at a place which is about 30 or 35 centimetres 
 from the soil, either a lath of wood, or a galvanized iron wire 
 twined round a groove cut in the upper end. This lath, or 
 iron wire, serves for fixing the pinched fruit-branches to it. 
 The 10,000 long stakes are from ixlyths to i^ths of a 
 metre in length. They are inserted close to the trunk of the 
 vine, in such a manner that the new rods can easily fix 
 themselves to it and rise by it. We represent in Fig. 20 
 the appearance of vines provided with the stakes and the 
 iron wire. 
 
 This mode of applying stakes to vines is much more 
 economical than that which is used in the Bourgogue and the 
 
88 PROTECTION AGAINST FROST, [cHAP. 
 
 Champagne. It only requires 300 bottes of stakes for the 
 hectare; while the other methods require 600 bottes ; but it 
 also requires 10,500 metres of iron wire, No. 14 gauge. This 
 weighs, with the necessary surplus for attaching in the soil, 
 600 kilos at 10 centimes a kilo, whereby the expense of stakes 
 and wires comes to 360 francs per hectare. Of course those 
 who practise what is called ordinary cultivation, that is, 
 cultivation such as is usual in their districts without reference 
 to particular theories or scientific principles, will be likely to 
 adhere to old practices ; but those who will be capable and 
 willing to comprehend all the advantages connected with 
 these new systems of treatment will readily be able to calcu- 
 late their profits in money. 
 
 NECESSITY OF PROTECTING THE VINE AGAINST EARLY 
 FROSTS, SPRING RAINS, AND HAIL. 
 
 Guyot was the first to apply on a large scale measures 
 for the preservation of the vine in open vineyards. He 
 proved incontestably their efficacy, and was rewarded by 
 great success ; but he clearly saw and foretold that it would 
 require the utmost courage and the utmost intelligence on 
 the part of viticulturists to assent to carry out so large a 
 proposition. To protect the vines of a single aCre of land, it 
 is necessary to spread over them a length of 10 kilometres of 
 straw matting. The mere proposition may appear chimerical 
 to viticulturists ; but it has long gone out of the range of 
 propositions, and become a matter of established practice. 
 The worst accidents of the vine in all countries are spring 
 frosts, which destroy the fructiferous shoots; secondly, the 
 persevering and cold rains of June, which prevent the fecun- 
 dation of the flowers and make the bunches fall off; thirdly, 
 the autumn frosts, which cause the leaves to fall, or to 
 die and get brown, and prevent the ultimate perfection of the 
 grape ; and, last, the rains of autumn, which cause the fruit to 
 get rotten. Hail is not so common an accident as those 
 we have above mentioned, and has at least one advantage, 
 namely, that it can be insured against, while no one would 
 think of giving a policy of insurance for any of the other 
 
III.] SPRING RAIN, AND HAIL. 86 
 
 accidents. No expenditure will effect the purpose here in- 
 dicated which does not rise up to at least 500 francs per 
 hectare, for an insufficient protection which would allow of 
 accident in any one year would not repay the expenses ; but 
 if the expenditure here indicated be made, and a vineyard 
 yields on an average 30 hectolitres of wine to the hectare, then 
 the means of protection above indicated will certainly raise 
 the quantity of wine to 60 hectolitres. The effect of the 
 protection is an increase of 30 hectolitres of wine, and it 
 is therefore necessary that these 30 hectolitres shall under 
 all circumstances possess a value of more than 500 francs. 
 However, the application of this method is not advised in 
 places where the average value of the hectolitre of wine is 
 only 30 francs or less. The method also presupposes that 
 the vineyard be planted with fine vines, and that these 
 vines be planted in lines, on low trunks, and with small 
 and large stakes. The protection is afforded by straw mats. 
 These straw mats have a width of 40 centimetres, and are tied 
 by imputrescible twine, or with thin flexible iron wire. They 
 can be rolled like canvas. They are put on on the ist of 
 April, and not taken away until the ist of November, or 
 later if the maturity of the grape should not be complete. 
 The vine which has been trained as described above, after the 
 principles enunciated by Guyot, is backed by a small wall of 
 earth thrown up behind it. The long stake is put about 20 
 centimetres in front of the trunk of the vine, and a third 
 piece of wood is stuck into the Httle earth-wall and fixed 
 against the main stake so as to rise against it in an angle of 
 from 30° to 40°. This small piece of wood serves as the 
 rafter for carrying the straw mat. As the stakes stand at a 
 distance of one metre, the straw mats are supported at these 
 distances by the wood mentioned ; and in order that they shall 
 not be subject to being lifted off by the v/ind, they are tied at 
 each main stake by means of a little bit of iron wire. It is 
 necessary to expose the vine underneath these straw mats 
 towards the east and south, very little only towards the 
 west, not at all towards the north. The protection to- 
 wards the north must be absolute,— that against the west 
 
go PROTECTION AGAINST FROST, [CHAP. 
 
 nearly absolute ; for it is from these directions that the most 
 dangerous enemies of the vine — the rains and the cold winds 
 — approach. The protection from frost is given by shutting 
 out the sky overhead and preventing radiation towards it. 
 The vine now begins to grow vigorously. In its protected 
 nooks the warmth is caught, and it springs out exuberantly. 
 
 Ten men can in one day fix 10,000 metres of straw 
 matting, — that is to say, cover in and protect a hectare. 
 Guyot succeeded in causing ten men to protect 70,000 metres 
 in six days. The straw mats remain in this position to the end 
 of May. From the 30th of May to the Sth or loth of July 
 they are raised so as to form an angle of 60° with the 
 horizon, being always open towards the east and south, and 
 closed towards the north and west. The rods of the vine 
 grow up along the main stake, and the little earth-wall behind 
 the vine is being diminished by means of the hoe to about 
 one-third of the original height. All the shoots of the fruit- 
 branch are pinched, while the wood-branches of course are 
 not pinched. 
 
 During the stage in which the vine has to be protected by 
 straw mats, to save the blossoms from destruction by cold and 
 rain, and during the following or third period- — from the loth of 
 July to the loth or 30th of September, according to the weather 
 — the mats are fixed perpendicularly to the north and west 
 of the vines. It is estimated by Guyot and Constant Char- 
 meux that this precaution alone will advance the maturity of 
 the vine at least a week. The straw mats now act as little 
 walls, against which the grapes ripen, and if they are blue 
 become dark. Lastly, in the fourth period — the end of the 
 season — in order to protect the leaves from early frosts, and 
 the grapes from rottenness by rain, the straw mat is fixed 
 almost horizontally over the bearing part of the vine, and 
 acts, in fact, as an umbrella against the rain and cold, or 
 intercepts radiation as a .screen. These four changes require 
 four operations, which cost 100 francs, including the bring- 
 ing in and taking away of the straw mats under circum- 
 stances in which the wages of a man are two francs for ten 
 hours. Ten men will unroll and fix the straw mats required 
 
in.] SPRING RAIN, AND HAIL. 
 
 91 
 
 for an hectare as above stated. The intermediate manoeuvres 
 of lifting, changing position, and so forth, require less time 
 than the first operation. On an average, the straw mats last 
 four years. Their price ought not to exceed 15 centimes 
 .the running metre. This, therefore, would be 400 francs per 
 hect;fire per year ; at present they cost 20 centimes, which 
 brings the total expense per hectare to 600 francs, which 
 is somewhat too dear. In cases where the vintage is 
 worth 30 francs the hectohtre, and an increase over the 
 ordinary production is attained by the straw mats, an advan- 
 tage begins to be possible ; but where in the fine vineyards 
 the hectolitre is worth 50 or 100 francs, an extra production 
 of thirty hectolitres will of course leave the profits at 900 
 francs, 1,500 francs, or 3,300 francs per hectare. Guyot 
 protected 62,500 metres of vines by means of straw mats. 
 These occupied five hectares by the side of twenty-nine 
 other hectares, which had been protected against early 
 frosts in spring in various ways ; but none was as success- 
 ful as the protection by straw mats. In 1857 this vineyard 
 in the neighbourhood of Sillery was full of blossoms in 
 all its parts — the twenty-nine hectares not protected by 
 straw mats equally with the other five hectares ; but during 
 blossoming time the hectares with the mats did not shed their 
 blossoms, and they produced from thirty to forty pieces — say 
 thirty-five pieces — of two hectolitres each ; while the twenty- 
 nine hectares without the straw mats gave from ten to twenty 
 pieces only, or in the main fifteen pieces per hectare. The 
 cold during the blossoming time had therefore caused from 
 fifty to sixty per cent, of the grapes to disappear, although 
 six hectares had been protected by pine branches, six 
 by marsh hay, and by straw hung upon the vines. In the 
 neighbourhood some viticulturists had protected their vines 
 by canvas. This also had afforded no protection, and their 
 vintage did not rise above ten, or twenty, or thirty pieces per 
 hectare. 
 
 The matters here .stated are by no means mere assertions ; 
 but they have been proved by frequent visits of committees 
 appointed by the viticulturists of Rheims and Chalons, and 
 
92 VINE HOW TOUCHED [chap. 
 
 reports of these committees have been pubhshed by the 
 engineers Dugue and Baucelin, in the Cultivateiir de la 
 Champagne for November 1856 and March 1858. Guyot 
 hardly claims any originality in this matter, for he says that 
 he has simply endeavoured to cause viticulture to profit by 
 the experience of the specialists. He says it is only necessary 
 to open the works of Dubreuil, to see the trellises and counter- 
 trellises of Constant Charmeux at Thom^ry, and to see the 
 effects of straw mats on the peach cultivation of Montreuil, 
 in order to perceive that he had only profited by their experi- 
 ence and their lessons. In 1858, Charmeux went so far as to 
 cover all his lines of trellis with such straw mats in order to 
 protect them against rain and cold. We can conceive that a 
 process may be economical which protects the fruit of a 
 season, in the neighbourhood of great towns which afford an 
 immediate and unfailing market, and yet not be economical 
 for grosser cultivation ; yet we have no doubt that if this 
 mode of cultivation were undertaken with all the precautions 
 we have indicated, it would everywhere effect a great improve- 
 ment in the product, a great saving of labour, and a great 
 increase in the harvest. 
 
 MODE IN WHICH THE VINE IS TOUCHED BY EARLY 
 SPRING FROSTS. 
 
 Many are the surmises which ignorant persons have formed 
 on this subject, and as the evidence of frost upon the young 
 shoots begins first to show itself when the sun rises, the 
 idea has been most common among them that it was the 
 rising sun which killed the shoots. Of course the sun has 
 nothing to do with it. This any person conversant with 
 physics could demonstrate a priori ; but it is well that in 
 matters of this importance there should be distinct experi- 
 ments to appeal to as evidence. All the lines of the vine- 
 yard of thirty-four hectares which Guyot planted at Sillery 
 in 1850 ran from north to south. In consequence the greater 
 part of his straw mats, which were then 59,000 metres, 
 opened towards the east, and received the first action of the 
 rising sun. In the night from the 4th to the 5th of May, 
 
III.] BY FROSTS. y3 
 
 1856, and in that from the 6th to the 7th, a frost of three 
 and four degrees struck all the vineyards of the Champagne, 
 and particularly those of Sillery. On the evening of the 
 4th Guyot, alarmed at the cold, clear aspect of the sky, 
 had caused 300 metres of straw mats to be got ready, 
 and had given orders that if there should be frost in the 
 night those three hundred metres of mats should, before 
 daybreak, be put to the east of vines not otherwise pro- 
 tected. These vines were therefore destined to share all the 
 intemperateness of the night, but not to be struck by the 
 early sun. The instructions were obeyed ; the sun rose 
 splendidly, and at ten o'clock in the morning the disaster 
 was evident to all eyes. All the shoots protected by the 
 straw mats against the rising sun had perished, just as well 
 as those which had not been protected at all ; and it had 
 been demonstrated that the rising sun had nothing to do 
 with the shrivelling, dying, and browning off of frosted vine 
 shoots. In the night between the 6th and the 7th the 
 same experience was repeated in other parts of the vine- 
 yard, where a number of rows had escaped the first night 
 unhurt. The sun-shades did not save a single shoot. But, 
 say others, " It is the cold wind that kills the shoots." On 
 the contrary, say we, the cold winds such as blow about 
 this time will never affect the young shoots^ unless there 
 be previously deposited moisture on the shoot sufficient to 
 make it defenceless. Now, what causes this deposition of 
 moisture 1 The radiation of its warmth towards the sky so 
 reduces its temperature that the moisture which rises from 
 the ground is deposited upon it, and then the wind comes 
 and the shoot, which is defenceless against the effects of 
 evaporation, perishes. It is therefore clear that the cold 
 wind alone has no effect upon the shoot, except in the case 
 when the shoot has previously lost heat by radiation, and 
 had moisture deposited upon it. The dry shoot is protected 
 against wind by the fine fur which covers it on all sides, 
 and which to a teleologist might appear to be expressly 
 made for protecting it against frost. Well, then, prevent the 
 radiation from the vine towards the clear sky by means of 
 
94 VINES TO BE SELECTED [chap. 
 
 straw mats ; you thereby prevent your vine from getting so 
 cold that it will deposit moisture, and the wind will then 
 only contribute to keep it all the drier, and insure its preser- 
 vation rather than its destruction. The vine in clear spring 
 nights dies from radiation, as all the camels died in Bruce's 
 caravan, in the midst of Sahara, under the clearest sky that 
 he ever beheld on his journeys — from radiation of heat into 
 space. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES TO BE SELECTED FOR CULTIVATION. 
 Each variety of vine generally preserves its main characters 
 wherever it can be planted so as to produce fruit. Its 
 principal characters appear also in the wine made from that 
 fruit. Exposure, territory, and climate may make a vine 
 poor or rich, but it will never transform it into anything 
 else : the Muscat will not become Carbenet, the Pineau 
 will never become Camay, the Riessling will never become 
 Chardenay or Tokay. Notwithstanding this remarkable and 
 unquestionable fact, the idea that the variety of the plant 
 governs the product has always been applied only to the 
 so-called great growths. As Guyot expresses it, the idea 
 of the growth has absorbed the idea of the vine, while 
 in reality the vine determines the growth. Plant Chateau 
 Lafite with Camay or Couais, and you will have a detestable 
 wine. Substitute the Camay for the old vines of the Clos 
 Vougeot, and you will have wine at 60 francs the piece. 
 Take the Carbenet Sauvignon from the Haut Medoc, or the 
 Franc Pineau from the Bourgogne, and plant it at Madeira, 
 at the Cape, in Spain, in Algeria, or at Auxerre, and every- 
 where you will obtain excellent wines, which will recall the 
 wines of those countries from which you have taken the 
 plants. The exposure, the climate, the higher cultivation, 
 and the mode of making the wine will of course influence 
 their lightness, their richness, their taste, and their bouquet ; 
 but the Pineau, wherever grown, will reproduce the qualities 
 of the Burgundy wine, and the Carbenet, wherever grown, 
 will recall those of the M6doc. The Riessling, whether 
 grown on the Rhine, in the Tyrol, in Croatia, or at the 
 
Ill-] FOR CULTIVATION. 
 
 95 
 
 Cape, will always recall the qualities of the wine of the 
 Rhine.^ The Due de la Vittoria, Espartero, caused Bordeaux 
 grapes to be planted in his vineyards in Navarre. The wine 
 there produced is true wine of Bordeaux as to taste and 
 richness, but it has an after taste which is sour and bad, and 
 which is found in most Spanish wines. This taste is pro- 
 duced by the methods of preparation and keeping adopted 
 throughout Spain. In the Auxerrois there was a remarkable 
 observation made in the year 1858. The wine made from 
 Gamay was sold at 50 to 60 francs the piece of 250 litres, 
 while the piece of wine made from Pineau was sold at 
 from 300 to 400 francs. It has been alleged against this 
 experience that the Pineaus were grown in favoured slopes, 
 but that is really a groundless objection. The same slopes, 
 if planted with Gamay, would soon lose their reputation, and 
 their wine would sell at perhaps 1 5 francs higher than the 
 Gamay wine of the common vineyard. It is therefore quite 
 properly that Guyot insists, and we insist with him, that 
 each wine, no matter from what country it comes, should 
 carry with it the name or names of the grapes from which 
 it is made. Thus one should never say " wine of Bur- 
 gundy," but "wine of Pineau from Burgundy." One should 
 not speak of " Bordeaux wine," but of " wine of Carbenet 
 from Bordeaux," or "wine of Verdot." One should speak 
 of " wine of Fins Plants of Champagne," and not of " Cham- 
 pagne wine." In the Bourgogne there are produced, side 
 by side on one and the same slope, excellent wines from 
 good varieties of grapes and very bad wines from bad 
 varieties of grapes. These varieties are frequently mixed 
 in the vineyard for purposes which may be very justifiable 
 in the eyes of the producer, but which have no bearing 
 whatever on the ultimate product as regards the consumer. 
 The Germans have practically recognized this long since. 
 They call, their Riessling wine " Riessling," in order to make 
 fully sure that it is to be understood that this wine comes 
 from Riessling only. The Germans also speak of " Tramine," 
 
 ^ This makes the report concerning Bucellas wine being made from the "Hoclc 
 grape " rather doubtful. 
 
96 VINES TO BE SELECTED [chap. 
 
 and we may rely upon it that these are pure wines, because 
 their characters are so striking, and an admixture of other 
 grapes would produce so infallible a deterioration in the 
 quality that only folly could think of effecting such a 
 mixture. If we consider the great growths and the history 
 of their establishment, we shall always find that they were 
 originally produced by intelligent persons who planted favour- 
 ably situated vineyards with excellent vines. The excellence 
 of the produce was gradually ascribed to the situation only, 
 and the effect of the particular cultivation of the species 
 of vine grown was forgotten. We have now to do the 
 reverse. We have to wake up producers, wine merchants, 
 and consumers to this great law, that the variety of the vine 
 determines the quality of the wine, and that no man ought 
 to be satisfied with a name for a quality of wine, unless he 
 has, at the same time, a guaranteed statement of the variety 
 of vine from which this particular wine has been made. We 
 therefore advise that the finest variety of vines should be 
 planted in all places where it is intended to establish new 
 vineyards. No producer needs to fear that the finest varieties 
 will giAfle him less produce than the coarsest, if he will care- 
 fully adopt the method of training most adapted to each. 
 During this century many attempts have been made to 
 determine the relative value of the fine varieties of vines. 
 In the year 1819 the Due de Decaze founded the Ampelo- 
 graphic School of the Luxembourg under the direction of 
 M. Hardy. Here there were brought together varieties of 
 vines from all parts of the world, but it was found quite 
 impossible to make any use of them. How is wine to be 
 made from two plants .' and how can the value of a plant 
 be determined except by its produce, well treated and well 
 matured 1 The collection was a very useful botanical one, 
 but its viticultural value was nil. We have ourselves care- 
 fully examined the whole of the vines in that collection for 
 botanical and special chemical purposes ; but we are never- 
 theless obliged to say that it has never fulfilled any of the 
 intentions which were connected with its establishment. Viti- 
 culture remained the same throughout France, and even the 
 
Ill-] FOR CULTIVATION. 
 
 <il 
 
 propagation of good or bad vines was left uninfluenced by 
 this great effort of Decaze. This collection of vines was 
 imitated in various parts of the world. There was one 
 made at Baden, and another at Heidelberg, in which Metzger 
 the botanist took so distinguished a part, and which has 
 served as the basis for the monograph on vines by Von Babo. 
 There is a collection at Gratz, which was made under the 
 auspices of the late Archduke John ; and another at the 
 Closter Neuburg, which serves as the botanical school of the 
 Agricultural Institute of that convent. All these have 
 undoubtedly augmented the knowledge of vines in general, 
 and many intelligent persons have thence drawn stock which 
 they have multiplied to advantage; but, on the whole, 
 vinification has not been thereby improved to the desired 
 extent, 
 
 Guyot says to viticulturists : " Plant your new vineyards 
 with the finest vines that you can get in your neighbourhood. 
 Each of you can distinguish them perfectly well in your 
 locality. You know their qualities and faults better than 
 the proprietors or men of science. Take the best plants, 
 cultivate them carefully, adopt the mode of cutting which 
 makes them fertile, 'give them the manure which is necessary, 
 and you will find that the revenues of your vineyard double : 
 you will find that while before your vineyard nourished only 
 one family, it will now feed two. The salaries will augment, 
 the land will get richer, and you will contribute to increase 
 the wealth of France." 
 
 To the proprietors he says : " Buy the canes of the reputed 
 vineyards of your neighbourhood; collect the canes of the 
 fine varieties of vines in your own vineyards, plant them in 
 nurseries, and train up new plants which will enable you to 
 replace vines which have died in your established vineyards 
 or to plant new vineyards altogether. Do not provine, but 
 fill up all places which have become vacant by two-year 
 plants from the nursery. Carry earth and manure to the 
 extent to which the vineyard requires it. Maintain your 
 vines with trunks, and cut them upon a fruit-branch and a 
 wood-branch. Do not spare hand labour, and you will find 
 
 H 
 
98 VINES TO BE SELECTED [chap. 
 
 that your wines will be double in value, and that their quantity 
 will be as great as that produced by the coarsest vines." 
 
 To the Government M. Guyot says : " Make yourself the 
 instrument of collecting all the canes of the best growths 
 of France immediately after the cutting; plant them in 
 nurseries, and you will have in two years, at a very small 
 expense, millions of vines. If each thousand of these vines 
 be sold at five francs, the revenue will amply cover your 
 expenses. Create in Algeria, in the Landes, in Sologne, in 
 the Champagne, model vineyards and nurseries, from which 
 the deserts which are so close to all these places could be 
 populated ; and after ten years the capital employed will 
 return you io per cent. ; the colonies will be fixed, and the 
 wines of France will be bought by all the world. If to 
 these immediate means you superadd the importation and 
 study of foreign vines, and carry on their treatment to the 
 completion of the process of vinification, you will establish 
 the science of viticulture and cenology on a definite and 
 solid basis." 
 
 SELECTION OF THE MOST SUITABLE SPECIES FOR THE 
 DIFFERENT PARTS OF FRANCE. 
 
 In the South and South-East Districts of France. 
 
 FOR BOX RAISINS. 
 Mayorquin, ou Bourmen. Panses. 
 
 FOR LIQUEUR WINES. 
 
 Furmint. Malvoisie. 
 
 Grenache. Muscat blaiic. 
 
 Maccabeo. Muscat noir. 
 
 FOR GOOD WINES. 
 
 Carignane. Roussane. 
 
 Clarette. Rousselet. 
 
 Mavsanne. Rousette. 
 
 Ugni. 
 
 Petite-chiraz, 
 
 Picpoule. Vfonnier. 
 
 In the South- West Districts. 
 
 FOR THE, BEST WINES. 
 Carbenet. Muscadelle. 
 
 Carbenet gris. Sauvignon. 
 
 Cannen^re. Semillon. 
 
 Cruchiuet. Verdot. 
 
 FOR THE BEST BRANDIES. 
 Folle-blanche. 
 
I"-] FOR CULTIVATION. 99 
 
 In the East, the Central, and the Western Districts. 
 
 FOR GOOD WINES. 
 
 Epinette _et bkncs-fumes. Pineaux gris ou beurots. 
 
 Froraentes roses, blanc et gris. Pineaux de la Loire, ou de Vouvray 
 
 Gentils roses, blanc et gris. Pineaux noir, ou noiriens. 
 
 Mesliers. Plants dores, verts ou gris. 
 
 Pineaux blancs, ou Chardenays. Riesslings. 
 
 Savagners. 
 
 We now refer the reader to the description of the varieties of 
 vines which we have given in the topographical part under each 
 particular district of cultivation. It would be unnecessary for 
 us here to repeat all the details given in those places, inasmuch 
 as they have reference particularly to those localities. How- 
 ever, as it is our intention to make this work as cosmopolitan 
 as possible, we recommend all enterprising persons to study 
 carefully all the varieties of vines in the parts in which they 
 want to plant them — varieties, of course, which have been 
 selected in the first instance on the basis of the general 
 probability of their success. Nobody can doubt that hitherto 
 European vines have failed in America. The vine of Cyprus 
 tak^ from Madeira has, however, succeeded well in South 
 America. Those who make plantations in foreign parts 
 should therefore, above all things, consider local experience, 
 and make experiments on a large scale only if they are in 
 possession of all the knowledge contained in this treatise, 
 and can wield it with freedom. 
 
 H 2 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 VINTAGE AND VINIFICATION. 
 
 Time of vintage. ^ Modes of vintage. — Separation of stalks. — Mashing and 
 crushing. — Wine-presses and pressing. — Fermentation. — Production of wine 
 by the process of Petiot. — Special apparatus required and rules for the pro- 
 duction of wines by the process of Petiot. — Adjustment of acidity and sugar 
 which ought to be made in must before it is allowed to ferment. — Descrip- 
 tion of the proceedings for making fruit or grape-wines according to the 
 method of Gall. — Plastering of wine and must. 
 
 TIME OF VINTAGE. 
 
 When the grapes are ripe they have to be collected in a 
 clean and judicious manner, and to be transformed into 
 wine without any unnecessary delay. White grapes are 
 crushed and pressed ; the juice, freed from stalks and husks, 
 is put into clean barrels, and allowed to ferment in a 
 cellar or other temperate place. Black grapes which are 
 to yield red wine are crushed, put into vats, juice, husks 
 and all, and allowed to ferment until the wine is com- 
 pleted, and has extracted the colouring matter. The wine 
 is then drawn off, the murk pressed, and the united 
 products put into barrels. While the principles of the most 
 common methods of vinification are thus easily stated, the 
 details to be noted are so numerous, owing to the variations 
 determined by different vines, customs, and countries, that 
 we must state them in the chapters treating of the viticulture 
 of each oenopoetic district. 
 
 The first condition of the vintage is, that the grapes should 
 be ripe. In many parts of the south of Europe it is considered 
 that the grapes are ripe when they have attained their greatest 
 
CHAP. IV.] TIME OF VINTAGE. loi 
 
 volume. They are then vintaged ; but their must being quite 
 unfit for the production of natural wine, has to be plastered, 
 and, after partial fermentation, to be mixed with spirit. It 
 is thus clear that the time of the greatest volume of the 
 grapes is not the one most suitable for the vintage, if the 
 object of the viticulturist be to produce natural wines. In the 
 most celebrated vineyards for the production of white wine, 
 the grapes are allowed to hang until they attain the maximum 
 of sweetness and maturity, and are commencing to decay or to 
 pass into the state of sweet-rot. Thus in the Sauterne district, 
 the best berries of every bunch are cut out at intervals and 
 carried to the press ; and an entire harvest ' of a vineyard 
 consists of several up to eleven separate gatherings of all 
 that has attained the highest state of ripeness. In the finest 
 situations of the Rhinegau, the grapes are not collected until 
 the rains or frosts of the latest autumn necessitate the vintage. 
 At Vouvray as at Tokay, the best wines are made from the 
 grapes which have been longest on the vine, and collected the 
 greatest amount of sugar. But the experience gained in the 
 production of white wines is rarely applied to the red ones ; 
 for with them the production of a certain colour is a dominant 
 condition. The colour required by the trade can only be 
 obtained from grapes at a certain stage of maturity, and that 
 stage does not coincide with the maximum maturity which 
 the grapes can attain on the vine. Consequently, the highest 
 quality of the wine is abandoned in favour of a conventional 
 dye ; and the unripe wine has to remain years in barrels and 
 bottles before it acquires the qualities -which fit it for use. 
 The Champagne grapes, on the other hand, are not permitted 
 to attain the stage of highest maturity, because it is conven- 
 tional that the effervescent wines of that country shall be as 
 pale as possible, and not have the slightest tint of redness. 
 But whereas fully ripe Pineau always yields a slightly reddish, 
 rosy, or partridge-eye coloured juice, however carefully and 
 quickly it may be pressed, this stage of fullest ripeness is 
 not awaited in the Champagne, and the grapes are gathered 
 at the time of their greatest volume : and whereas fully ripe 
 Pineau, when fermented with the husks, yields wine which has 
 
I02 TIME OF VINTAGE. [chap. 
 
 a somewhat tawny red colour, and not the lively dark red of 
 elderberry juice, the wines of Burgundy are, with few 
 exceptions, vintaged at the time when the grapes produce the 
 deepest colour. 
 
 Those therefore who would produce good wine should allow 
 their grapes to hang on the vine as long as is compatible with 
 the safety of the harvest. From time to time samples of 
 grapes should be collected from the vineyard, the berries 
 should be mashed, pressed in a little hand-press, and the 
 juice obtained subjected to examination, particularly as re- 
 gards the amount of sugar and acid present in it. The sugar 
 can be easily ascertained by the use of a so-called glucometer, 
 or spindle of glass, such as is used for ascertaining specific 
 gravities in general. The scale of the glucometer should be 
 so divided as to indicate per cents, of fruit-sugar directly, and 
 not imaginary degrees arbitrarily fixed by inventors. But any 
 gravimeter indicating specific gravities can be used to ascertain 
 the density of a must, and from that the amount of fruit-sugar 
 contained in it can easily be calculated. Some convenient 
 French glucometers are so arranged as to indicate by one 
 degree of their scale a quantity of fruit-sugar which after 
 fermentation would yield a volume per cent, of the must of 
 absolute alcohol, that is, about 1500 grms. of sugar per hecto- 
 litre of must. When the sugar is calculated from the specific 
 gravity found absolutely, the total solids found must not be 
 taken for sugar only, but from one-tenth to one-fifteenth has 
 to be deducted as being other matters than sugar. The sugar 
 can be determined absolutely by the chemical and optical 
 methods of saccharometry described in a subsequent chapter. 
 Must which would yield from 6 to 8 per cent, of alcohol 
 will give only "small wine," and grapes showing this 
 quality of must should not be harvested. When the samples 
 of must produced show above 8 per cent, of future alcohol, 
 the vintage may be contemplated. But it should never be 
 actually undertaken as long as by repeated trials any increase 
 in the quantity of sugar in the grapes is observable. Even 
 when the sugar has attained its maximum, and remains 
 stationary, it is not on that account necessary to proceed to 
 
IV.] MODES OF VINTAGE. 
 
 IP3 
 
 gather the grapes, as, if the season be favourable, they will, 
 still undergo beneficial changes by hanging upon the vine. 
 In the north and centre of France must wrill seldom show- 
 more than 15°, but in the hottest regions of the south, in parts, 
 of Spain, Italy, Cyprus, Madeira, must is produced which 
 shows up to 24°, i.e. degrees of the French glucometer. 
 Of course this sugar can never be entirely transformed 
 into alcohol, as the action of fermentation ceases in any 
 fluid containing above 16 per cent, of alcohol. The ex- 
 cess therefore remains as sugar, as in the liquorous wines 
 of Lunel, and the sweet Sauternes, which are now taking 
 the place of Lunel. If it is not intended to produce 
 such syrupy wines, the must produced can be reduced by 
 the addition of water to 15" or even 12°, and will then ferment 
 completely and produce dry wines of the best character. 
 This dilution of a heavy must is preferable to the harvesting 
 at the time when the trial juice shows from 12° to 15°. If, 
 on the other hand, a must coming from good vines in an 
 unfavourable year shows but 8° of future alcohol, it may 
 advantageously receive an addition of pure cane-sugar up to 
 12°, every degree requiring an addition of 15 00 grammes 
 of cane-sugar to each hectolitre of must. In no case should 
 artificial grape-sugar, or starch-sugar, or glucose be used. We 
 have tried a variety of the best and whitest samples which 
 can be procured, and find that they all impart a nasty taste 
 to the fermented product. When the viticulturist has decided 
 all the questions raised by these considerations, and made 
 his preparations accordingly, he should proceed to the actual 
 vintage. 
 
 MODES OF VINTAGE. 
 The most common mode of vintaging consists in cutting 
 off all grapes and carrying them to the press. For this 
 mechanical operation no particular intelligence on the part 
 of the labourers, and no instructions on the part of the viti- 
 culturist, are required. Men, young and old, women, and 
 children, may be employed. Each labourer is put to a 
 separate row of vines, and told to progress to the end of the 
 
I04 MODES 01' VINTAGE. [chap. 
 
 row. All labourers are required to remain in line, so that 
 the work is equally distributed. They cut the bunches off the 
 vines with scissors or knives, and place them in little baskets. 
 Every full basket is replaced by an empty one, and emptied 
 immediately by the collector, who thus attends to the wants 
 of from four to six labourers. The grapes are best placed 
 into suitable vessels of the capacity of an hectolitre, so that 
 the vintage is immediately measured, and the amount of work 
 done ascertained. A butt of the capacity of an hectolitre 
 will hold 50 kilos of grapes, and with its own weight of 10 to 
 15 kilos can be lifted and carried by a single man. 
 
 The master vintner superintends the entire process. If 
 there is a sufficient number of hectolitre vessels, they are 
 placed side by side on the waggon and carted to the press. 
 If this is not the case, the hectolitres being counted and 
 noted down, the contents are poured into a large vat, 
 which is in attendance on a waggon on the carriage-road 
 of the vineyard. The vintagers may be taught to cut out 
 of every bunch all unripe, corroded, or spoiled berries, and 
 put them into a separate little basket. But it is preferable 
 to entrust this work of clearing the bunches to particularly 
 instructed labourers located at the place of collection of the 
 hectolitre recipients. They should have a table, each sufficient 
 to take the contents of a receiver, and with a pair of scissors 
 should remove all bad parts, and all long stalks and tendrils. 
 They should then separate the good from the bad, and allow 
 the former only to go to the main vat on the waggon. The 
 berries which have been ranged out may, after separation 
 from the worst ingredients, be used for the production of a 
 cheap common beverage. A careful vintage labourer can 
 harvest 125 kilos of grapes per day, which will measure 
 2\ hectolitres, and produce nearly i hectolitre of wine. 
 Five vintagers require one porter, and four such gangs require 
 a superintendent. Such a staff of twenty-five vintagers will 
 clear half a hectare of vineyard per day, and thus collect 
 50 hectolitres, or 2,500 kilos of grapes, producing 20 hecto- 
 litres of wine. The waggon carrying the harvest is best 
 drawn by a horse, and attended by a waggoner and an 
 
IV.] SEPARATION OF STALKS. 
 
 los 
 
 assistant. Wherever the quantity of grapes is smaller, or the 
 roads are not accessible to a drawn waggon, the harvest has 
 to be carried on the backs of men or animals. But this mode 
 of transport is also elected in places where it is intended to 
 bring the grapes as perfect and uninjured as possible into the 
 press-house, as in the Champagne. Indeed, we believe that 
 in that district the harvests, even of the largest properties, are 
 all carried in panniers on the backs of mules and donkeys. 
 
 SEPARATION OF STALKS. 
 
 When a load of grapes arrives at the press-house, the ques- 
 tion has to be decided whether or not the stalks are to be 
 removed from the grapes previous to mashing. When the 
 grapes are very ripe the stalks are woody, and do not easily 
 yield juice to any pressure, however strong. But when the 
 grapes are less ripe, the stalks are green and succulent. 
 
 Fig. 21. — Mode of separating: stalks from grapes by stirring with a trident. 
 
 and yield much harsh astringent juice on pressure. 
 Practically, in the case of white wines, the stalks are never 
 separated from the grapes; in some cases of light wines, 
 which incline to be viscous, it is even advantageous to leave 
 the stalks in prolonged contact with the must. But this is 
 exceptional, inasmuch as must of white grapes is, as a rule, 
 pressed immediately, and not left in contact with the murk 
 
jo6 MASHING AND [chap. 
 
 for any length of time. The Champagne grapes are also 
 pressed with the stalks, and the juice of the latter causes the 
 last third of the must which flows from the press to be 
 harsh and of less value than the first parts. With most 
 other black grapes the case is different, because they have to 
 remain in contact with the juice for a length of time during 
 fermentation. If, then, the murk is very astringent, and the 
 stalks are left in the fluid, a harsh wine is produced, which 
 requires years to become drinkable. But the same grapes, 
 fermented without the stalks, yield a milder, better maturing 
 wine. They are therefore separated before the grapes are 
 mashed. This separation of the stalks (French, ^grappage; 
 German, Abrappeii) can be effected by various means. A 
 simple method consists in the stirring of the bunches in a tub 
 
 ^ / " / 
 
 i4Ti iiilf 
 
 Fig. 22. — Machine for separating grapes rom stalks. The funnel-shaped top is taken 
 from the stand, to show the cylindrical box of parallel wires and stirrers within. The 
 stirrer is a^ain figured separately below. (Reduced to about one-thirtieth of actual size. ) 
 
 with a trident of wood (Fig. 21) : by the rotary action of this 
 instrument the berries are detached and the stalks rise to the 
 surface and are taken off. Another machine consists of a cage 
 of parallel wires, in which a stirrer is revolved by a handle 
 turned outside (Fig. 22). The bunches enter above by a funnel 
 the berries drop through the interstices of the wires of the cage 
 which at last contains only stalks to be removed by the hand 
 through a side door. There are also in use various net-shaped 
 trays, on which the bunches are manipulated until the berries 
 have fallen through. This work is not easy upon all varieties 
 
IV.] CRUSHING. 
 
 107 
 
 of grapes ; ripe Verdot of the palus of the Gironde will drop 
 its grapes like hail when it is merely shaken, while ripe Pineau 
 is not so easily separated. The operation is the more difficult 
 the less ripe the grapes are. 
 
 MASHING AND CRUSHING. 
 
 The berries, whether separated or not, have now to be 
 mashed or crushed. This must be done with the precaution 
 not to crush the pips or stones, and the stalks if they remain. 
 It has therefore always been a favourite mode of comminu- 
 tion to let the grapes be trodden by men. We believe 
 that this is a very excellent method if cleanly and pro- 
 perly performed. It is done on a wide wooden platform, 
 or in a large tub, and the juice which is pressed out is 
 
 l.<-.Vi 1... 
 
 ^.==^«rapa ^^ — — =. 
 
 Fig. 23. — Grape mill for crushing grapes, with grooved rollers. (Reduced to about 
 one-chiitieLh of actual size ) 
 
 allowed to flow off into separate receptacles. In some parts 
 the treading of the grapes is done by men wearing heavy 
 boots. In this case the pips and stalks are easily injured and 
 crushed, and communicate unpleasant qualities to the wine. 
 The same is the case with the ordinary crushing machines or 
 grape mills, which consist of grooved wooden rollers working 
 against each other (Fig. 23). Such machines would be less 
 objectionable, and perhaps be preferable to the feet of men 
 
io8 
 
 WINE-PRESSES 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 because working quicker, if the rollers were made of vulcanized 
 caoutchouc. 
 
 WINE-PRESSES AND PRESSING. 
 
 In the preparation of white wine the must is separated 
 as much as possible from the murk before the latter is 
 pressed, so that the volume of the matter to be pressed is 
 as small as possible. In the preparation of Champagne wine 
 the grapes are, however, not crushed at all in detail previously 
 to their being put into the press, and the only crushing which 
 they receive is by the press itself. It is for this reason that 
 the presses in the Champagne are the most powerful of any 
 known. In the preparation of red wines the juice which flows 
 
 Fig. S4. — Wine-press as used in the Gironde for pressing the murk of red wine after 
 fermentation. (Reduced size about oire-fortieth of reality.) 
 
 off the platform or press, together with all the husks on the 
 press, and the stalks, if they have not been removed, are put 
 into the fermentation vat. Fermentation is allowed to com- 
 plete itself, the wine is then stirred energetically with the 
 husks, so as to extract the utmost amount of colouring matter; 
 all the wine which will run off by itself is drawn from the taps, 
 and the murk is put into the press, and the wine flowing from 
 
rv.] 
 
 AND PRESSING. 
 
 109 
 
 it added to the other. Wherever red wine is made, the plat- 
 form on which the grapes are trodden serves also as press, an 
 iron screw being fixed in the middle, surrounded by a basket 
 in which the murk is placed. The science of the wine-presses 
 would admit of the composition of a separate treatise. Most 
 of these machines reflect the greed rather than the wise in- 
 genuity of their constructors. No doubt a wine-press should 
 have certain power, sufficient in all cases to effect the object 
 in view, namely, the expulsion of all the juice from the murk. 
 But presses which force the juice out of the stalks and the 
 oil out of the pips are injurious to the wine, and should be 
 
 Fig. 25 — ^Wine-press as used in the Gironde for pressing white grapes before fermenta- 
 tion. The box consists of six horizontal sections, which can be put on upwards as the 
 murk accumulates, or removed from above downwards as the compression of the 
 murk proceeds. (Reduced size about one-fortieth of reaUty.) 
 
 avoided, or the juice so expressed at the end of an operation 
 should be put aside and not mixed with the must. The most 
 suitable presses appear to be those common in the Gironde, 
 which have an iron screw in the middle, of a high round 
 basket made of perpendicular laths, destined to receive the 
 murk, and a nut, which is turned upon this screw from above 
 
I JO FERMENTA TION. [CHAP. 
 
 downwards by means of levers, presses the wooden blocks 
 upon the murk, which thereupon oozes its liquid through the 
 basket by which it is surrounded (Fig. 24). It is probable that 
 in large establishments presses will soon have to compete with 
 centrifugal machines, which perform in two hours, with the 
 aid of three men, what presses working upon the same amount 
 of material can only perform in seventeen hours, with the aid 
 of seven men. 
 
 FERMENTATION. 
 
 The fine white wines of the Gironde are all fermented 
 in barriques, which in this country are called hogsheads. 
 New casks are always taken ; they are not completely filled 
 with must, so that no yeast or impurity can escape from the 
 bung, but all is drowned in the wine. The white wines of 
 the Rhine are mostly fermented in large casks, containing 
 1200 litres each, and called "piece" (German, Stiick). 
 Sherries are fermented in tuns and in butts. The Cham- 
 pagne wines, after having been cleared of scum and deposit, 
 are also fermented in small casks of 220 litres each. It may 
 thus be said that white wine is generally fermented in barrels 
 with only the ordinary bunghole at the top open for the 
 escape of the carbonic acid gas. But red wines are fermented 
 in vats ; that is to say, conical wooden casks open at the top. 
 This is a mechanical necessity, owing to the complications 
 introduced into the preparation of red wine by the bulk of 
 the husks and the necessity for stirring. In the Gironde the 
 vats are filled to a certain point ; if the stalks have been 
 separated they are placed on the top of the murk, the house 
 is shut, and fermentation allowed to complete itself The 
 top of stalks is now taken off, together with the outer layer 
 of murk, which is mostly somewhat decomposed. But the 
 bulk of the murk is now submerged and stirred with the 
 new wine, so that its colour may be fully extracted. At last 
 the wine is drawn off and the murk put in the press. In 
 other parts the husks of red must are kept submerged in 
 the fluid by a wooden cover fixed somewhat under the 
 level of the fluid, and pierced with holes to allow the gas 
 
IV-] PETIOT'S PROCESS. in 
 
 to escape. In other districts again the vats are covered, 
 but opened daily, and the murk is submerged with wooden 
 instruments. In parts of Burgundy the vats are not 
 covered, nor is the murk stirred before fermentation is 
 complete. At that period, however, the mixture receives 
 an energetic stirring by men, who enter the vats quite 
 naked and work about in the mixture with body and limbs. 
 This most objectionable practice is now happily on the de- 
 cline. When the fermentation of the red wine is complete, 
 the liquid is put into barrels and allowed to settle. It clears 
 much quicker than the white wine, which remains thick 
 for weeks when fermenting in the temperate atmosphere of 
 northern districts. But the red wine, having been fermented 
 in larger bulk, attains a higher temperature, and therefore is 
 finished in a shorter period. In southern parts, where there 
 are mostly no cellars, the white wine, if it is allowed, com- 
 pletes its fermentation as quickly as the red. The only means 
 available in those parts to slacken fermentation is the placing 
 of the wine in stone vats, which, by conducting heat better 
 than wood, effect a reduction of temperature of the must, and 
 thereby retard fermentation. 
 
 When the wine has completed its fermentation and become 
 clear, all the yeast and impurity are deposited in the bottom 
 of the cask. From this the wine has to be separated by 
 the process called "racking." This can be done by drawing 
 the wine through a syphon placed in the bunghole, or 
 through a tap fixed in the most suitable place. The clear 
 wine is put into a clean cask ; the cask just emptied is freed 
 of its lees, washed and rinsed, and is immediately ready to 
 receive the clear wine from another cask to be racked. By 
 this operation the wine generally becomes disturbed a little, 
 or it is not yet quite clear, and in any case requires fining. 
 This is mostly done by means of isinglass, of which a 
 small quantity is soaked in wine until soft, and then stirred 
 with the contents of a cask. All casks thus treated are 
 made bung-full, closed, and allowed to rest for six weeks. 
 After this period the wine is mostly quite clear and bright, 
 and being racked another time mostly remains so. In this 
 
112 PETIOT'S PROCESS [cHAP. 
 
 State the wine is kept in the cellar or shed {chats) until 
 ready for sale, use, or bottling. 
 
 PRODUCTION OF WINE BY THE PROCESS OF PETIOT. 
 
 In 1852, Eetiot caused a quantity of black grapes, which by 
 pressing would have given 60 hectolitres of wine, to be 
 crushed, and 45 hectolitres of the juice, which ran off before 
 it had time to ferment, to be collected. He mixed this 
 with an equal quantity of sugar-solution, which contained 
 the same amount of sugar as the must. This mixture 
 of equal parts of grape-juice and sugar-water yielded 
 him a very good wine. To the pulp of the grapes which 
 remained behind, Petiot added 50 hectolitres of sugar- 
 solution containing 18 per cent, of sugar. The mixture fer- 
 mented immediately, and was finished in three days ; and 
 50 hectolitres of wine of a nice colour were drawn. Pleased 
 with the quality of his product, Petiot determined to exhaust 
 the murk to the utmost. He repeated the process twice 
 more, each time with 5 5 hectolitres of sugar-solution containing 
 22 to 23 per cent, of sugar. At last he made a fifth ex- 
 periment by mixing the murk which had been pressed with 
 45 hectolitres of sugar-solution of equal concentration as before. 
 From a quantity of grapes which, according to the ordinary 
 proceeding, would have yielded only 60 hectolitres of wine, 
 there were obtained, by the aid of 240 hectolitres of sugar- 
 solution, on the whole 90 hectolitres of white, and 1 95 hectolitres 
 of red wine — altogether, therefore, 285 hectolitres of wine, — 
 as Petiot says, " wine in the full sense of the word." It was 
 therefore certain that the many matters which are contained 
 in the grapes, or some of them, and which are not extracted 
 with the must, are capable of passing into a large quantity 
 of sugar-solution when it is brought into contact with the 
 grapes or their residues, and of transforming it into wine. 
 These experiments were witnessed by the celebrated chemists 
 Th^nard, father and son, who were neighbours of Petiot. 
 Th^nard was in the year 1855 prevailed upon to treat the 
 whole of his vintage produce according to this method ; and 
 he obtained from a quantity of grapes, which according to 
 
IV.] OF MAKING WINE. 
 
 "3 
 
 the ordinary proceeding would have given him 500 hectolitres 
 of wine, 2,000 hectolitres, the quality of which gave general 
 satisfaction. 
 
 Of the infusions of sugar-solution which Petiot made in 
 1854, the third gave the strongest coloured product. In the 
 year 1855 the whole of the colouring matter of the grapes 
 was already exhausted by two infusions. The new wine is 
 less acid and more drinkable ; it has more bouquet than the 
 wine which is made from the grapes directly. It has an 
 extraordinary power of lasting. In June he took several 
 bottles and put them in a warm place in the kitchen. Here 
 they were left standing upright — part of them without corks — 
 for three months ; and while he caused several persons to 
 taste of them from time to time till they were gradually 
 emptied, the wine did not become worse, and remained clear 
 and without taste of acid to the end. He sent a sample of this 
 wine to New Orleans, where it arrived in perfect condition. 
 
 Although the factitious wine contains probably a some- 
 what larger quantity of unchanged sugar, which gives it a 
 more agreeable taste, yet it does not again pass into fer- 
 mentation, because it does not contain any fermentescible 
 albuminous matter. The white variety requires a little 
 more time for clearing, because the yeast is not sufficient 
 to decompose all the sugar very quickly ; but once clear, 
 it never becomes turbid again. 
 
 The best grapes or finest growths, when treated according to 
 Petiot's process, yield the greatest advantages ; for that which 
 remains best to the very end of the operation is the bouquet — 
 the particular flavour which distinguishes each situation and 
 each product, and which gives it its value. Many persons have 
 tasted these wines, have found them good, and have not been 
 able to distinguish them from the wines pressed from the grapes 
 directly, and yet they cost but one-third of the price of the 
 latter. Such are the data which Petiot published in a letter 
 addressed to the Central Society of Agriculture. 
 
 This method was introduced into Germany by Thilmany, 
 General Secretary of the Agricultural Society of Rhenish 
 Prussia, who made experiments with the process, in order to 
 
 I 
 
114 PETIOT'S PROCESS. [chap. 
 
 be able to determine its value by personal experience. In 
 the year 1858 he related his experience before a meeting 
 at Bonn. A report of this lecture is given in the Bonner 
 Zeihmg of March 5, 1858. His lecture bore the title, "On 
 the French art of making, from a given quantity of grapes, 
 four times the quantity of wine which those grapes would 
 yield by the ordinary method." He exhibited a great number 
 of samples of wines made by this method. The circum- 
 stance that Thdnard had then also used this new method, 
 and had employed in his experiment thirty-six thousand 
 kilogrammes, of a value of eleven thousand thalers, of sugar^ 
 a sum of money which such a man would not easily risk 
 unless he felt sure of the success of his process — came greatly 
 in aid of the lecturer. 
 
 Dr. L. Gall of Treves, who had already taken up this 
 matter some years before Petiot, now published in the year 
 1862 a little pamphlet entitled " Petiot's Method of increasing 
 the Quantity of Wine " (Treves). He gave in that pamphlet 
 a series of tables by which every producer might at a glance 
 ascertain the quantity of water and sugar which he would 
 have to add to the murk of the grapes in lieu of the 
 natural must withdrawn. He then adduced in support of 
 the process the teachings of the French chemist Maumend 
 of Rheims, and of Ladrey of Douay in Burgundy. Mau- 
 mend's " Sur le Travail des Vins" gives an historical account 
 of experiments which were made in the year 1777 by the 
 celebrated chemist' Macquer, who from quite unripe and 
 hard grapes made an agreeable tasting, fiery wine, like 
 that from ripe grapes. He says that the experiments of 
 Macquer have been changed a thousand times, and have 
 been employed by thousands of people, without ever 
 having been studied with scientific precision by any one 
 until Petiot placed the matter clearly before the public. 
 What must surprise every one is that each one of these 
 chemists and experimenters admits that the sugar-infusion 
 wines retain the perfect bouquet of the natural ones. The 
 amount of acidity or of tartrate of potash in them is less 
 than in the natural wines. The circumstance that they 
 
IV.] SUGAR-SOLUTION WINES. ij; 
 
 contain so little tartrate makes them much, more like old 
 wines, for it is well known that wines by age deposit their 
 tartar and become milder to the taste. The infusion wines 
 resemble natural wines in all essential qualities ; they contain 
 all the essential ingredients, and almost in the same pro- 
 portions, as the natural product. The non-essential ingre- 
 dients, or those which are frequently hurtful to the natural 
 wines, are diminished in the infused wines to such an extent 
 that their absence is a favourable circumstance. The method 
 promises to increase the quantity of cheap beverage, and 
 affords to the less opulent classes the means of making for 
 themselves a cheap, wholesome beverage, even from grapes 
 from which wines could not be obtained fit for commerce 
 or transport. 
 
 SPECIAL APPARATUS AND RULES REQUIRED FOR THE PRO- 
 DUCTION OF SUGAR-SOLUTION WINES. 
 
 I. Balance with weights. 2. Measuring vessels. 3. Vats 
 admitting of the measurement of large quantities of fluid. 
 4. A hatchet for chopping the lumps of sugar. 5, A large 
 copper kettle for producing sugar-solutions. 6. Froth spoons 
 and ladles. 7. A thermometer centi-graduated according to 
 Celsius. 8. A specific gravimeter. 9. A fermentation barrel 
 with a- pierced double bottom for drawing the wine from the 
 murk. 
 
 The sugar must always be pure white cane-sugar, for grape- 
 sugar so called, or sugar made by the influence of sulphuric 
 acid upon starch, is always objectionable. Cane-sugar is always 
 chemically pure, while grape-sugar is frequently moist and 
 impure, though white. For every aum of sugar wine, which 
 is equal to 160 bottles, from 40 to 50 lbs. of sugar are 
 required. 
 
 The white grapes to be used should be left on the vine as 
 long as possible, for it is known that their quality becomes the 
 better the longer they are allowed to hang ; the quantity of 
 sugar contained in them increases, while the amount of acid 
 diminishes. The black grapes, on the contrary, should not be 
 allowed to get over-ripe, for the wines obtained from over-ripe 
 
 I 2 
 
li6 CHAPTAL'S PROCESS. [chap. 
 
 black grapes mature very quickly, and, indeed, are passed in 
 the third year ; while the red wines obtained from grapes at 
 the proper stage of ripeness have their greatest value from 
 the second to the fourth year, or as long as they possess the 
 qualities of youth. 
 
 The grapes may be pressed, and the murk treated with the 
 sugar-solution ; or the grapes may be crushed and fermented 
 together with their juice, and the first wine drawn off after 
 they have fully fermented, and the sugar-solution thrown upon 
 the murk. All this depends upon the nature of the grapes, 
 and the amount and quality of the wine which the producer 
 wants to obtain. In any case he adds to the murk always a 
 quantity of sugar-solution, which is the same as the amount 
 of the must withdrawn, and contains the same amount of 
 sugar. This process allows of any person obtaining a large 
 quantity of wine without sacrificing a single drop of his 
 natural wine ; for he, of course, obtains the natural wine in 
 the first instance, and can deal with it as he pleases. 
 
 ADJUSTMENT OF ACIDITY AND SUGAR WHICH OUGHT 
 TO BE MADE IN MUST BEFORE IT IS ALLOWED TO 
 FERMENT. 
 
 A wine which contains less than 6 per cent, of alcohol tastes 
 flat, and a wine with more than lo per thousand of acid is so 
 sour that one cannot drink it. Now, if we obtain in a bad year 
 a must which contains only 12 to 14 per cent, of sugar, and from 
 15 to 18 per thousand of acid, we are obliged to throw away the 
 wine which would be obtained from such a must, for nobody 
 could drink it ; it has, indeed, been demanded by many per- 
 sons that such produce should be thrown away. But without 
 entering into the discussions which have been held on this 
 subject, we ourselves have come to the conclusion that it 
 would not be prudent to propose, and impossible to enforce, 
 such a measure. Various processes have been devised to 
 improve such a wine. The first process was invented by 
 Chaptal : he merely added the sugar which was wanted, and 
 thereby gave it more strength, but he did not by any means 
 diminish the acid ; and that diminution of acid was in France 
 
IV.] ' GALL'S METHOD. 117 
 
 and other parts generally effected by the addition of chalk or 
 plaster of Paris containing chalk. It was Dr. Gall, whom we 
 have already quoted in a former paragraph, who first pro- 
 posed to dilute acid must with a sufficient quantity of water, 
 in order to reduce the proportion of its acid to that of the best 
 natural must, and then to add sugar in order to bring up its 
 sweetness to that of the best natural must. Gall determined the 
 amount of acid in the must by chemical analysis, and then 
 depressed its quantity to an average of 5 per thousand. The 
 addition of sugar was made sufficiently great to be equal to 
 20 per cent, of the diluted must. To express the proceeding 
 of Gall shortly, he made in all cases a normal must of 20 
 per cent, of sugar and S per thousand of acid. Of course the 
 quantity of wine thus produced was the greater, the greater had 
 been the acidity in the must employed ; but what struck the 
 observer as most remarkable was this circumstance, that the 
 wine was always better than the wine from the same sour must 
 made by ordinary means. Indeed, anybody who will consult 
 old cookery books will find therein numbers of prescriptions 
 for making gooseberry, currant, and all sorts of fruit wines, 
 and he will find in all of them that water is added to the fruit- 
 juices, and then their sweetness brought up to a certain point 
 before they are allowed to ferment. The process of Gall was 
 therefore only an extension to wine must of a practice which 
 for a very great length of time had been commonly applied 
 to ordinary fruit-wine. We have ourselves made several 
 descriptions of fruit-wine according to this process, in the 
 following manner. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCEEDINGS FOR MAKING FRUIT OR 
 GRAPE WINES, ACCCXRDING TO THE METHOD OF GALL. 
 
 The fruit is we-U crusjied and the juice pressed out. A small 
 quantity of that- juice is then analysed as to its acidity. A 
 standard solution containing S parts of tartaric acid in one litre 
 of solution is made ; a saturated solution of lime in water is 
 made, on the other hand ; and it is ascertained by the usual 
 method of volumetric analysis how many cubic centimetres of 
 the lime-water are necessary to neutralize a given quantity — say 
 
ii8 PLASTERING OF [CHAP. 
 
 ten cubic centimetres — of the tartaric acid solution. By this 
 means it is found that a certain number of cubic centimetres of 
 the Hme solution correspond to a certain quantity of tartaric 
 acid ; or, if applied to any liquid containing an unknown amount 
 of acid, they will express the quantity of acid contained in that 
 liquid as tartaric acid. Now, when we took a natural fruit- 
 juice, and found say lo per thousand of acid, we were obliged 
 to add to every five measures of the juice five measures of 
 water, whereupon the acidity would be depressed to half 
 its original degree, or 5 per thousand. When we found 12 
 per thousand, and were desirous to reduce the quantity of 
 acid to 7 per thousand — which we always did in cases where 
 we supposed the acid present to consist more of citric and 
 malic than of tartaric acid — we added to every seven 
 measures of must five measures of water. Our practice, 
 therefore, yielded the following rule : The quantity per 
 thousand of acid which it is desired to obtain is deducted 
 from the quantity per thousand actually found by analysis ; 
 the remainder gives the number of measures of water 
 which it is necessary to add to the measures of must, ex- 
 pressed by the desired quantity of acid per thousand. By 
 this dilution the quantity of sugar is naturally very much 
 depressed ; but as this depression is known, it can be easily 
 remedied. The specific gravity of the must, according to the 
 tables, gives the quantity of sugar which is actually contained 
 in the mixture. Suppose the sugar originally contained in a 
 fluid so diluted had been 15 per cent, and the quantity of 
 fluid had been raised from S to 10 measures, then the per- 
 centage of sugar after the dilution is 1 5 x yV = 7\ per cent. 
 In the second case, where, as above mentioned, we have 
 diluted from 7 to 12 measures, the equation would be — 
 
 IS >< Tif = 84 per cent. 
 
 Now if it is desired to bring up the must to the normal 
 strength, 20 per cent, of sugar, then, in the first case, 
 there would have to be added 20 less 7 J, or \2\ per cent, 
 of sugar; and in the second case, 20 less 8f, or 11^ per cent, 
 of sugar. 
 
IV.J WINE AND MUST. ii 
 
 One per cent, of loo litres must is equal to I kilogramme : 
 loO litres of dilute must require therefore \7.\ and ii^ kilo- 
 grammes of sugar. The wines obtained from these mixtures 
 contain 5 per thousand of acid, and between lO and ii per 
 cent, of alcohol. 
 
 PLASTERING OF WINE AND MUST. 
 
 It is a very common practice in Spain, Portugal, and the 
 south of France, to add plaster of Paris to the grape-juice in 
 the process of wine-making. The plaster is either thrown 
 upon the grapes before they are crushed, or it is added 
 after fermentation has commenced. 
 
 The reason generally given in favour of such addition of 
 plaster of Paris is that the plaster, by uniting with some of 
 the water of the grape-juice, renders the remaining juice 
 richer in sugar, and therefore more valuable. If such be 
 really the intention, the desired effect will not be obtained 
 to any degree worth noticing, because even perfectly 
 pure and anhydrous plaster of Paris unites with only 
 a little more than one-fourth its weight of water, while 
 the gypsum thus formed takes up mechanically a con- 
 siderable quantity of liquor, and thereby greatly reduces 
 the yield. In order to prove this, we have made the fol- 
 lowing experiments. 
 
 The juice experimented upon was pressed from grapes 
 imported into the London market as Lisbon grapes, 48 oz. 
 of which yielded 32 oz. of juice. Two ounces of juice being 
 reserved for examination by itself, the rest was divided into 
 three quantities of 10 oz. each, to which were added i, 2, and 
 5 oz. of plaster of Paris respectively, or 10, 20, and 50 per 
 cent. The plaster of Paris was added in small quantities, 
 well stirred into the juice, and allowed to remain in contact 
 with it for twenty-four hours. The clear juice was then poured 
 off the precipitate, and the latter placed upon a cloth and 
 pressed, so as to obtain as much juice as possible. The 
 portion to which 50 per cent, had been added had quite 
 solidified, so that no juice could be obtained without pressing. 
 
I20 PLASTERING OF [chap. 
 
 In this manner 9 oz., 8 oz., and 4'3 oz. of juice were recovered 
 of the 10 taken in each case. The original juice and the 
 three samples treated were then examined for sugar, free 
 acid, and in two cases for tartaric acid and ash. The 
 results are given in the following tables, the figures 
 showing the amount of substance present in grammes in 
 1 litre of juice : — 
 
 Free acid cal- 
 J"'<==- Sugar. ^^^^^ ^ f 
 
 Original juice contained . .... I37"58 gnns. 5'07gnns. 
 
 Juice treated with 10 per cent, plaster, 
 
 90 per cent, recovered ..... I38'38 ,, 4'57 ,, 
 
 Juice treated with 20 per cent, plaster, 
 
 80 per cent, recovered I43'96 ,, 3'35 „ 
 
 Juice treated with 50 per cent, plaster, 
 
 43 per cent, recovered ..... 1 54 '54 >> 0'66 ,, 
 
 It will be seen from these data that the addition of plaster 
 increases the percentage of sugar but diminishes the amount 
 of juice. Taking both effects into consideration, we arrive at 
 the following calculation : — • 
 
 Amount of sugar in I litre juice ..... I37"58 grms. 
 Amount of sugar in juice recovered from i litre after the 
 
 addition of 10 per cent, plaster ..... 125 '44 ,, 
 Amount of sugar in juice recovered from i litre after the 
 
 addition of 20 per cent, plaster ..... 115 -16 ,, 
 Amount of sugar in juice recovered from i litre after the 
 
 addition of 50 per cent, plaster ..... 66'45 ,, 
 
 In the last case therefore more than half the .sugar in the 
 original juice had to be abandoned, in order to raise the 
 percentage of the remainder from 1375 to 15 '45. The same 
 effect might have been produced by the addition of 2 per 
 cent, of sugar, or by the evaporation of iii per cent, of 
 water. In the first case, 2 per cent, more juice would have 
 resulted, and in the second case a loss of only in per cent, 
 against 57 per cent, loss by the use of plaster of Paris, for the 
 same increase in the amount of sugar, viz. 2 per cent. 
 
 From the above we may conclude that plaster of Paris 
 added to grape-juice combines chemically with one-fourth 
 of its weight of water, the gypsum so formed absorbing 
 its own weight of juice, which cannot be recovered by 
 
IV.] WINE AND MUST. 121 
 
 pressing. Nor is this effect altered if the gypsum be allowed 
 to ferment^.with the must, the only difference being that 
 whereas in the first case the gypsum retains must, in the 
 latter case wine remains absorbed, the relative loss being 
 as great as before. 
 
 Diminution of yield is, however, not the only drawback 
 connected with the plastering of wine. The gypsum decom- 
 poses the tartrate of potassium present in the juice, insoluble 
 tartrate of calcium being formed, and sulphate of potassium 
 going into solution. At the same time the carbonate of 
 calcium,- always present in larger or smaller quantities in 
 plaster of Paris, precipitates the free tartaric acid. It neu- 
 tralizes some of the other free acids of the juice, and if 
 present in sufficient quantity, it neutralizes them completely, 
 in which case the phosphates of the juice will also be pre- 
 cipitated. 
 
 The addition of plaster of Paris therefore tends to the 
 more or less complete removal of the tartaric acid, one of 
 the most characteristic constituents of grape-juice, leaving 
 only free or combined malic acid, an acid which grapes have 
 in common with all other sour fruit. The place of cream 
 of tartar is taken by sulphate of potassium, a salt having 
 a perceptibly bitter taste, and acting as a purgative even in 
 moderate doses. 
 
 Moreover, as it appears that the amount of tartaric acid 
 increases with the increasing ripeness of the grape, while the 
 malic acid diminishes, the plastering virtually reduces the 
 juice of even the ripest grapes to a state of unripeness, at 
 least as regards the nature of the acids. In the samples 
 analysed, as above, the tartaric acid present in the original 
 juice amounted to 0'9i6 grms. per litre ; in the sample treated 
 with 20 per cent, plaster it had been reduced to O'Oi grm., 
 the amount of malic acid remaining the same. The original 
 juice yielded 4'o85 grms. ash per litre, containing 2 "4 15 grms. 
 carbonate of potassium, while the sample treated with 20 
 per cent, of plaster yielded 7'255 grms. ash, containing 0*005 
 grm. carbonate ol potassium. 
 
 The experirnents made with juice with which the plaste'r 
 
122 PLASTERING OF WINE [chap. 
 
 of Paris had been allowed to ferment completely confirm 
 the results of the former analyses. 
 
 Three quantities of grapes of 20 oz. each were taken, crushed 
 in a mortar, and then put into a flask closed by a mercury 
 valve, so as to allow the escape of carbonic acid, and prevent 
 the free entry of atmospheric air. One sample (No. i) was 
 allowed to ferment by itself; to another sample (No. 2) 
 I oz. of plaster was added before fermentation ; and 2 oz. of 
 plaster were added to No. 3 sample, also before fermen- 
 tation, — or S per cent, and 10 per cent, respectively. After 
 fermentation they were analysed, and any sugar yet unfer- 
 mented was calculated as yielding its equivalent of alcohol, 
 and the amount added to the alcohol found. The amounts 
 of tartaric acid, ash, and carbonate of potassium in the ash 
 were also estimated. 
 
 The juice, before fermentation, contained 140 per cent, 
 sugar, and 0'236 per cent, tartaric acid. It left 0'39 
 per cent, ash, containing 0'207 per cent, carbonate of 
 potassium. 
 
 No. I yielded, on pressing, juice equal to 7875 per 
 cent, of the weight of grapes taken, and contained 6" 12 
 per cent, alcohol, 0208 per cent, tartaric acid, and left 
 0"343 per cent, ash, with 0"I38 per cent, carbonate of 
 potassium. 
 
 No. 2 yielded, on pressing, 76-25 per cent, juice, containing 
 6' 1 7 per cent, alcohol, O'ogo per cent, tartaric acid, and left 
 0'6o3 per cent, ash, containing 0'0I3 per cent, carbonate of 
 potassium. 
 
 No. 3 yielded, on pressing, 7r25 per cent, juice, containing 
 6-36 per cent alcohol, 0-071 per cent, tartaric acid, and left 
 0-620 per cent, ash, containing 0-013 per cent, carbonate of 
 potassium. 
 
 Taking the yield of No. i (grape-juice without any 
 addition) as 100, with 6-12 parts of alcohol, the yield of 
 No. 2 will be 96-82 with 5-97 alcohol, and No. 3 90-4 
 with 5-75 alcohol, showing a loss of alcohol in No. 2 of 
 2-5 per cent, of yield of No. i, and of 6 per cent, of yield of 
 No. I in No. 3. 
 
IV.] AND MUST. 
 
 123 
 
 The increase of ash in Nos. 2 and 3 is due chiefly 
 to the conversion of carbonate of potassium into sulphate 
 of potassium, and partly to the solubility of the plaster 
 of Paris. 
 
 As in Spain, Portugal, and the south of France plaster 
 of Paris is very generally added to the grapes, it has 
 been presumed that this process must be of use, and we 
 therefore think it unsafe to draw the conclusion from 
 our experiments which naturally suggests itself, viz. that 
 plastering is of necessity only hurtful and disadvanta- 
 geous to the wine and the producer. But this result of 
 our analysis is unquestionable, namely, that the ordi- 
 narily stated object of the practice, viz. that it withdraws 
 water, and thereby effects a condensation of the must, is 
 not the real object. 
 
 In some breweries plaster of Paris is employed for the pre- 
 precipitation of certain albuminous matters which have a 
 tendency to affect the beer in an unfavourable manner, and 
 in some sugar refineries it is used for analogous purposes. 
 It remains to be seen whether a similar object is attained by 
 plastering in the case of wine. But even in that case the 
 practice would be rendered superfluous by the subsequent 
 brandying of this wine, which puts a .stop to all further 
 changes. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 CHEMISTRY OF ALCOHOL. 
 
 Physical characters of alcohol. — Elementary constitution and chemical characters 
 of alcohol and its homologues. — Methods of alcohol determination based upon 
 the specific gravity of alcoholic mixtures. — Distillation. — Determination of the 
 specific gravity of the alcohol by indirect means. — Methods of alcohol 
 determination based upon the boiling point of alcoholic mixtures. — The 
 ebuUioscope. — Geisler's instrument. — Vaporimeter. — Silbermann's dilatometer. 
 — Resumi. — Experiments on the state in which alcohol is contained in vfine. 
 
 PHYSICAL CHARACTERS OF ALCOHOL. 
 Grape-sugar, under the influence of vinous fermentation, 
 undergoes a change, the main products of which are alcohol 
 ^and carbonic acid. This transformation is represented by the 
 following chemical formula : — 
 
 Grape-sugar. Alcohol. Carbonic anhydride. 
 
 Cg His Og = 2 Cj Hj O + 2 C Oj. 
 
 Besides these two principal products, there are, however, 
 always formed greater or smaller proportions of several other 
 substances, closely allied in chemical character to alcohol 
 properly so called, and hence termed homologous alcohols, 
 and a certain amount of glycerine and succinic acid. 
 
 To obtain the pure alcohol, the fermented liquid is sub- 
 mitted to repeated fractional distillation ; the distillate is 
 rectified over charcoal, or filtered repeatedly through fresh 
 charcoal, and then again distilled. By these means the greater 
 part of the water and of the other admixtures are removed. 
 The strong spirit (rectified spirit) so obtained is next shaken 
 up with a quantity of dry carbonate of potassium. After 
 standing for some time, the mixture separates into two layers, 
 of which the lower one consists of a concentrated aqueous 
 
CHAP, v.] PHYSICAL CHARACTER. 125 
 
 solution of potassium carbonate, while the upper one is nearly 
 anhydrous alcohol. This upper layer is taken off by a syphon 
 or pipette, and, finally, repeatedly distilled over freshly burnt 
 quicklime, to remove the last traces of moisture. 
 
 The alcohol thus obtained is generally distinguished as 
 absolute alcohol ; it is a colourless, very mobile liquid, of a 
 peculiar spirituous smell and extremely burning taste; it 
 is poisonous even in small doses. It has a specific gravity 
 of 0791 at 20, and 0793 at 17-5 Meissner ; 07925 at 18 
 Dumas and BouUay ; 07996 at 15 Kopp; 07938 at 15-5 
 and 0790 at 20 Connel ; 07938 at 15-5 Fownes ; 0-80625 at 
 O, 079788 at 10, 079367 at 15, 078945 at 20, and 078096 
 at 30, water at 4° C. taken as 1, Mendelegeff ; 079792 at 10, 
 079317 at 15-5, 078932 at 20, water at 4° C. taken as i, 
 Dupre and Page. 
 
 It boils at 78 '4 1 with a pressure of 760™" Gay Lussac. 
 
 ,, 76' ,, ,, 745"'" Dumas and BouUay. 
 
 78 '303 >. ,. Mendelegeff. 
 
 .. 77 '89 ,, ,, 744 4™"' Dupre and Page. 
 
 It does not solidify at the lowest temperature obtainable 
 (— 150° C), though it becomes somewhat viscid. Its specific 
 heat is o-6i5 Kopp; 0'6oi between 15 and lo Regnault ; 
 0^60430 between 17 and 21 Dupr6 and Page. The expansion 
 by heat is almost exactly proportional to the temperature, 
 and when heated from zero to 78-4, it expands 0^0936 parts 
 of its volume at zero. The capillary attraction is 39'2i, 
 water being 100. Compressibility for one atmosphere at 
 97° C. 0*00009349. It is readily inflammable, and burns with 
 a pale blue non-luminous flame. It is miscible with water in 
 every proportion. Its admixture with water is attended 
 with evolution of heat and contraction of volume ; the mixture 
 has a higher temperature and occupies a smaller bulk than 
 the water and alcohol separately possessed. The amount 
 of heat produced, and the contraction taking place, differ 
 with different proportions of alcohol and water : the heat is 
 greatest when thirty parts by weight of alcohol are mixed with 
 seventy parts of water, in which case the temperature of the 
 mixture rises 9*14° C. and 47 '98 units of heat are evolved by 
 
126 PHYSICAL CHARACTER [chap. 
 
 S grms. of mixture, Dupr6 and Page {Philos. Traits. 1869, p. 605) ; 
 the contraction is greatest when 5 3 "939 vol. of alcohol are mixed 
 with 49836 vol. of water, when it amounts to 3 '638 per cent, 
 the 103775 vol. of water and alcohol become reduced (after 
 cooling of the mixture to the original temperature) to 100, 
 or 100 vol. become 96'362 vol. On account of this contrac- 
 tion varying with different mixtures, it was impossible to 
 calculate the specific gravity of any mixture from that of 
 its constituents, and it had, in consequence, to be determined- 
 experimentally. 
 
 In these mixtures the specific gravity, the boiling-point,.' 
 and capillary attraction fall, the rate of expansion and the 
 vapour tension rise, with the increasing percentage of alcohol ; 
 and hence these properties may be made use of for estimating 
 the amount of alcohol present in a mixture of alcohol and 
 water. 
 
 The specific heat and compressibility of these mixtures 
 show a remarkable peculiarity. Although, as above given, 
 the specific heat of alcohol is considerably less than that of 
 water, yet mixtures of alcohol and water containiftg from 
 I to 35 per cent, of alcohol have a higher specific heat than 
 water itself (Dupre and Page) ; at an alcoholic strength of 
 about 36 per cent, by weight the specific heat is equal 
 to that of water, and continues below that of water with 
 the increase of alcohol up to absolute alcohol, although 
 throughout it is higher than the mean specific heat of its 
 constituents. It follows that up to an alcoholic strength of 
 36 per cent, two mixtures may always be found having the 
 same specific heat, and this property cannot therefore be made 
 use of for estimating the strength of mixtures weaker than 
 this. The compressibility shows just the opposite pro- 
 gression. The addition of little alcohol to water causes 
 the compressibility of the mixture to be less than that 
 of water ; at an alcoholic strength of about 50 per cent. 
 it reaches that of water, continuing thence greater until 
 in absolute alcohol it reaches almost twice this amount. 
 Therefore, below a strength of 50° two mixtures may 
 always be found showing the same compressibility. 
 
V.J OF ALCOHOL. 
 
 127 
 
 If spirit of wine, of whatever strength, is put into a tube 
 one end of which is closed by an animal membrane, while 
 the other end is open, and this tube is then immersed in 
 pure water, so that the surfaces of the liquids in and outside 
 the tube are on a level, it will be observed, after a short 
 lapse of time, that the liquid inside the tube rises. If the 
 water outside is from time to time renewed, and the tube 
 is gradually dipped deeper into the water, so as to keep 
 the inner and outer liquid always on a level, the rise of 
 the liquid in the tube will become slower, and at last 
 cease altogether. If now the contents of the tube be 
 examined, they will be found to consist of pure water 
 only, but there will be considerably more water than 
 there was water and alcohol in the tube at the beginning 
 of the experiment. This phenomenon, called Exosmosis 
 and Endosmosis, consists therefore in the passage of alcohol 
 out of the tube, and the passage of water into the tube. 
 The animal membrane, however, allows more water than 
 alcohol to pass in a given time, in consequence of which 
 the liquid, on that side of the membrane on which the 
 alcohol is, increases in bulk. In other words, if an animal 
 membrane separates alcohol from water, or a stronger from 
 a weaker spirit, an interchange of liquid will take place 
 through such membrane until the composition of the mixture 
 on both sides is equal, the alcohol or stronger mixture losing 
 in alcohol, but gaining in bulk ; the water or weaker spirit 
 gaining in alcohol, but losing in bulk : the exchange taking 
 place, generally speaking, the more rapidly the greater the 
 difference in alcoholic strength on the two sides of the 
 diaphragm, so that this property may even be made use of 
 for estimating the strength of a mixture. If, as in the experi- 
 ment above described, the liquid on one side of the membrane 
 is always pure water, all the alcohol will, as stated, find 
 its way out, and the interchange will only cease when 
 nothing but pure water remains. Under these circum- 
 stances it has been found that the proportion between the 
 alcohol passing the membrane in one direction, and of 
 the water passing in the other, although varying with different 
 
128 CONSTITUTION OF ALCOHOLS. [chap. 
 
 membranes, is constant for one and the same membrane, and 
 is independent of the strength or amount of spirit used, 
 and is but slightly variable with the temperature. This 
 proportion, or rather the amount of water passing in for one 
 gramme of a substance passing out (for this endosmosis and 
 exosmosis takes place not only between alcohol and water, 
 but between water and all substances, liquid or solid, soluble 
 in water) through the membrane, is called the endosmotic 
 equivalent : it is for alcohol, according to Jolly, in the case 
 of pig's bladder, 4"i3 ; that is, for every gramme of alcohol 
 passing through the pig's bladder into the vessel holding the 
 water 4-13 grms. water will have passed through the bladder 
 into the vessel holding the spirit, by the time when all inter- 
 change has stopped, and only pure water is contained in 
 the apparatus. Soemmering's method for procuring strong 
 alcohol is based upon the same property. It consists in 
 putting a weak spirit into a bladder from the calf or ox, 
 and hanging it up in a warm place for some time. Both 
 alcohol and water pass through the bladder, and evaporate 
 on the outside ; but as considerably more water than alcohol 
 passes through, the alcoholic strength of the liquid in the 
 bladder increases, and it is said that even absolute alcohol 
 may thus be obtained, more particularly if the bladder, 
 before use, be covered inside and out with a thin coating of 
 isinglass. 
 
 ELEMENTARY CONSTITUTION AND CHEMICAL CHARACTER 
 OF ALCOHOL AND ITS HOMOLOGUES. 
 
 As above stated, alcohol and carbonic anhydride, although 
 the chief, are not the only products of vinous fermenta- 
 tion, but there are always produced a greater or lesser 
 amount of various other substances, among which are a 
 number closely resembling alcohol in chemical character. 
 -The use of the term alcohol has therefore been extended so 
 as to include all these allied bodies. If, however, the term 
 alcohol is used by itself, ordinary or ethyHc alcohol is meant. 
 
 These alcohols are compounds of carbon, hydrogen, and 
 oxygen. In some of their chemical characters they bear a 
 
v.] HOMOLOGOUS RADICLES. 
 
 i2g 
 
 Strong resemblance to water, and may, therefore, be looked 
 upon as water in which one atom of hydrogen has been 
 replaced by a compound radicle. The most simple of these 
 radicles is called methyl, and has the composition CH3. It 
 is the type of a so-called homologous series of radicles, which 
 become progressively more complicated than the type, every 
 succeeding member having one atom of carbon and two atoms 
 of hydrogen, or CHj, more than the preceding. The mem- 
 bers of this series resemble each other in character the more 
 the nearer they stand to each other in the series. The higher 
 members may be viewed as methyl, in which one or more 
 atoms of hydrogen have been substituted by methyl or its 
 homologues. 
 
 Thus we have the series : — 
 
 Methyl, C H3. 
 
 Ethyl, C2H,or(CH3,CH3). 
 
 Propyl, C3 H, or (C Hj, C^ H5) = C H^ (C H^, C H3) or C H (C H3, C H3). 
 Butyl, C4 Hg or C H^ (C, H,) = C H^ [c Hj (C H^ (C H3))] or 
 C H2 [C H (C H3, C H3)] or C H [C Hj (C H3, C Hg) ] or 
 
 C [(C H3, C H3, C H3)]. 
 Amy], C5 Hji. 
 Caproyl, Cj H13. 
 
 As will be observed, only one ethyl is possible, one of the 
 atoms of hydrogen in methyl being replaced by methyl. 
 Of propyl, however, two isomers are possible, one in which 
 one atom of hydrogen is replaced by ethyl, and another in 
 which two atoms of hydrogen are replaced by two methyl. 
 Butyl, in similar manner, admits of four isomers, amyl of 
 eight. And thus the number of possible isomers rises in an 
 arithmetical progression. In ethyl we have thus only one of 
 the hydrogen atoms of the methyl substituted ; in the case 
 of propyl, we may have either one or two thus replaced, 
 whilst in butyl and all the radicles higher in the series we 
 may have one, two, or all three thus replaced. Radicles 
 formed by the substitution of only one atom of hydrogen 
 in methyl are termed primary radicles ; when two are thus 
 
 K 
 
130 PRIMARY ALCOHOLS. [chap. 
 
 replaced, secondary radicles ; and if all three are replaced, 
 tertiary radicles. There is thus only a primary ethyl ; there 
 are a primary and secondary propyl ; while all the higher 
 radicles may be not only primary, secondary, or tertiary, 
 but there may be even several isomeric representatives of 
 each of these. 
 
 If these radicles form alcohols, we obtain corresponding 
 primary, secondary, and tertiary alcohols. Primary alcohols 
 in which the replacing radicle has the general formula 
 C2H3 (CH2) t, formed like ethyl by the substitution of one 
 atom of hydrogen in methyl by the next lower radicle of 
 corresponding structure, as 
 
 C H3, H O, met|lfylic alcohol. 
 
 C Hj, C H3, HO, pthylic alcohol. 
 
 C Hj, Cj Hj, H (0 or C Hj (C H^, C H3) H O, propylic alcohol. 
 
 C H„ C, H;,, IJ or C Hj (C Hj, C H^, C Hg) H O, butylic alcohol, &c. 
 
 are called normal alcohols, all the other possible • isomers 
 are called pseudo-alcohols. 
 
 These primary alcohols have important powers of meta- 
 morphosis. The hydrogen of the water residue may be re- 
 placed by an acid radicle ; the resulting compound is a so- 
 called compound ether : thus 
 
 Ethylic alcohol. Acetic acid. Acetic ether. Water. 
 
 Cj H5, H O and C, H3 O, H O yield C, H5, C^ H3 O, O and H^ O- 
 
 Or sonie of the hydrogen of the alcohol may be abstracted 
 (by combining it with oxygen), the result being aldehyde and 
 water ; thus 
 
 Ethylic alcohol. Ethylic aldehyde. Water. 
 
 Cj, H5, H O + Q = Cj H3, H O + Hj O. 
 
 Under the cqntinued influence of oxidizing agents upon 
 aldehyde the place of the abstracted hydrogen is taken 
 by one atom of oxygen, the result being a monobasic 
 acid : 
 
 E ylic aldehyde. Acetic acid. 
 
 ^' jj, H O + O = C2 Hs O, H Q. 
 
V-J ALDEHYDE AND ACID. 
 
 131 
 
 Each primary alcohol has thus a corresponding aldehyde 
 and acid. Only one primary ethylic and propylic alcohol 
 existmg, there is of course only one corresponding aldehyde 
 and acid. The higher alcohols, however, may give rise to an 
 aldehyde and an acid for each of the isomeric primary alco- 
 hols possible. The compounds mentioned in the foregoing 
 summary are either found in wine as a rule, or may be found 
 under certain circumstances, free or in combination. The 
 radicle methyl occurs in trimethylamine, a strong base of 
 the ammonia type present in many wines. The alcohol corre- 
 sponding to this radicle, termed methylic alcohol or wood- 
 spirit, is however not found in wine or in. any other fermented 
 liquid. Of the remaining alcohols, we have in wine besides 
 the ethylic, which greatly predominates, propylic, butylic, 
 amylic and caproic. The relations of these alcohols to the 
 quaUties of the wines are not yet sufficiently investigated. All 
 the alcohols of this class in wine and in all other fermented 
 liquids are primary ones, and generally, though not always, 
 also normal. Of the several aldehydes, the ethylic and the 
 propylic are- now and then found in wines. Of the acids 
 we find formic related to methylic alcohol, as acetic acid, 
 a normal ingredient of wine, is to ethylic alcohol. Of 
 propylic alcohol we may have not only the aldehyde, 
 but also the acid, propionic acid. And of each of the higher 
 members of the alcohol series we may have not only one but 
 several primary forms, and of these forms the respective 
 aldehydes and corresponding acids. Lastly, we may have 
 compound ethers of all these alcohols and acids formed with 
 the acids corresponding to their series, as well as compound 
 ethers of all these alcohols with the other acids of the wine. 
 
 The foregoing will suffice to show that, even in regard to 
 the alcohols alone, the possible varieties of wine must be 
 almost infinite, and will also give some indication as to the 
 difficulties to be encountered in fixing the character of a wine 
 by chemical analysis alone. 
 
 K 2 
 
132 DETERMINATION OF ALCOHOL. [chap. 
 
 DETERMINATION OF THE ALCOHOL OF WINE. 
 
 The various methods in use for the estimation of alcohol 
 in wine have regard only to the ethylic alcohol. The pro- 
 portion of the other homologous alcohols present is so minute, 
 that any error committed by disregarding their presence is 
 within the unavoidable errors otherwise incidental to the 
 methods, and therefore unimportant. 
 
 Of the physical properties of alcoholic mixtures there are 
 four which have chiefly been made use of, or have been pro- 
 posed to be made use of, for estimating the amount of alcohol 
 contained in them : namely, their specific gravity, their boiling- 
 point, their vapour tension, and their rate of expansion. In 
 alcoholic fluids, such as brandy, wine, or beer, the specific 
 gravity of the mixture and its boiling-point fall with the 
 increase in the amount of alcohol, while vapour tension and 
 rate of expansion increase pari passu with the increase of the 
 proportion of alcohol. 
 
 When we wish to ascertain the amount of alcohol in mixtures 
 which contain no other ingredients but this and water, we have 
 only to determine their specific gravity, and calculate the 
 amount of alcohol from data which will be given further 
 on. This method is, under such circumstances, at once the 
 most accurate and the most expeditious. But when other 
 substances are present in the mixture, they exercise, by their 
 nature and quantity, an influence upon the specific gravity of 
 the fluid ; and this function, therefore, ceases to be that of the 
 alcohol only. Then it becomes necessary to separate the 
 alcohol from these interfering agents, and to place it under 
 circumstances where it may be mixed with water only. This 
 is done by distillation, an operation requiring complicated 
 apparatus, time, and attention. It was chiefly or solely with 
 a view to saving the trouble and labour connected with this 
 operation that other methods were devised, and no objec- 
 tions have ever been raised to distillation on the score of want 
 of accuracy ; and, indeed, none of the other methods advancq,d 
 has ever claimed superior or even equal accuracy with it 
 
v.] DISTILLA TJON. 
 
 133; 
 
 We have, however, found that there is at least one method 
 which gives very accurate results with less trouble than the 
 process of distillation ; and we have, therefore, accurately 
 examined five of the chief methods which have any claim to 
 scientific consideration. We have taken care to value the 
 principle as well as the practicability of each process, and to 
 distinguish between its general applicability and its special 
 usefulness in given single cases. 
 
 METHODS OF ALCOHOL DETERMINATION BASED UPON THE 
 SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF ALCOHOLIC MIXTURES. 
 
 There are two methods which are based upon this physical 
 property. 
 
 According to the first method the alcohol is separated from 
 the mixture by distillation, and the distillate is operated on 
 for ascertaining the amount of alcohol, from which that in 
 the original fluid, say wine, is easily determined. 
 
 According to the second method the amount of alcohol 
 present in wine is calculated from the influence which it 
 exercises upon its specific gravity. 
 
 DISTILLATION. 
 
 When this operation is conducted with the requisite care, it 
 gives very accurate results. The quantity of wine used for the 
 experiment should not be too small, but amount to from 200 
 to 300 cubic centimetres. It may be weighed, in which 
 case the experiment becomes independent of temperature, 
 and therefore the most accurate ; or it may be measured, 
 when the temperature of the sample has to be carefully 
 ascertained. The weighed or measured quantity of wine is 
 introduced into a flask or retort, rendered slightly alkaline by 
 caustic soda, mixed with a small quantity of tannin to pre- 
 vent frothing, and then carefully distilled by driving the 
 alcoholic vapours, by means of heat applied underneath the 
 flask, into a tube surrounded with cold water — a so-called 
 condenser. It is well to drive over from one-half to two- 
 thirds of the liquid in the flask. Strong and heavy wines 
 
134 
 
 SPECIFIC GRA VITY. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 may advantageously be diluted with water before distillation. 
 The flask should be connected with the condenser in such a 
 manner as to prevent any fluid from being projected over 
 into the condenser. The condenser has to be kept well 
 cooled ; it should be connected, air-tight, with the receiver. 
 The latter should be furnished with a safety .tube — that is 
 to say, a little glass tube, which is bent in the shape of a 
 syphon, and at the lowest part of its bend contains a glo- 
 bule of mercury. This arrangement permits the air in the 
 apparatus to expand and contract, and yet prevents almost 
 entirely the otherwise unavoidable evaporation of alcohol 
 during the progress of the distillation. 
 
 As soon as the necessary quantity is dis- 
 tilled, the distillate is mixed with so much 
 water as may be required to raise it to the 
 exact weight or measure of the wine originally 
 taken for distillation. In the latter case, that 
 of filling up to measure, the mixture must 
 be brought to the same temperature as the 
 original wine, and must be well shaken before 
 being employed for the purpose of deter- 
 mining its specific gravity. This operation 
 may be performed by a hydrometer, but it 
 is better to employ the balance and specific 
 gravity bottle. The specific gravity bottle 
 should not be too small, and contain from 
 20 to 60 cubic centimetres. As the specific 
 gravity of all fluids varies with the tempera- 
 ture, this has to be carefully noted. It is 
 best so to manage the ' experiment that the 
 fluid has the temperature of 155° C. or 60° F., 
 the temperature for which most alcohol tables are constructed ; 
 and in case it should be either higher or lower, to cool it down 
 or warm it up to the desired point. For variations of tempe- 
 rature which are not far removed from the standard calcu- 
 lated corrections may be applied without much trouble. The 
 amount of such correction for each degree centigrade varies 
 considerably with the strength of the spirit, and, though very 
 
 FlG- z6. — Specific 
 gravity bo' tie. 
 
v.] 
 
 DISTILLATION APPARATUS. 
 
 '35 
 
 Slightly, with the glass of which the specific gravity bottle 
 .s made. In cases where the temperature difffrs ol a ew 
 degrees either way from the mean fhJc I- ^ 
 
 :/ 'luiu me mean, this correction can be 
 
 %y.lT-^S^^ employed for the distillalioi, of wine. In the dJs.illing vessel on the 
 nght , shown the arrangenient used to prevent anv spirting oVer of the wfne and on 
 the extreme left tht glass tJbe and merour/ valve dosing the nceiver. ' 
 
 applied with sufficient adcurady by means of the following 
 formula : — 
 
 Ti --=i Xi-V d Q000014 + Y 
 
 150 
 
136 DISTILLATION FORMULAE. [chap. 
 
 In this formula D is the required density at 15-5, D' the 
 
 density observed, and d the difference between 15-5 and the 
 
 temperature at which d' was taken. If this was below 15-5, 
 
 the - sign is used; if above, the + sign. 000014 is the 
 
 correction per degree centigrade with distilled water ; the 
 
 I — d' 
 fractions give approximately the additional correction 
 
 for a spirit of the observed specific gravity d'. 
 
 For D thus calculated the corresponding alcoholic strength 
 may be found in the proper tables; and this strength, as 
 regards the wine, may be expressed, essentially, in three 
 different ways; firstly, in per cent, by volume in volume of 
 wine ; secondly, in per cent, by weight in weight of wine ; 
 and thirdly, in per cent, by weight in volume of wine. 
 The alcoholic strength of the distillate will sometimes 
 directly represent the strength of the wine according to one 
 or other of the above ways of expressing it; sometimes an 
 additional calculation is necessary before the desired result is 
 obtained. 
 
 Thus wine and distillate have been measured, and we 
 require — 
 
 (i) Per cent, by volume in volume of wine. — The alcoholic 
 strength of the distillate, as given by the tables showing 
 per cent, by volume, will at once give the desired result, 
 the strength of distillate and wine as thus expressed being 
 identical. 
 
 (2) Per cent, by weight in weight of wine. — The alco- 
 holic strength of the distillate, according to the table giving 
 per cent, by weight, is multiplied by the specific gravity 
 of this distillate and divided by the specific gravity of the 
 wine, or 
 
 . per ce nt, by w. of dist illate X by spec, gravity of dist. 
 
 Per cent, by w. in w. = ^— r t^ : — ^ ■ — ^ 
 
 by specinc gravity of wine. 
 
 (3) Per cent, by weight in volume of iviiic. — The percentage 
 by weight of the distillate is multiplied by the specific gravity 
 of such distillate — 
 
 Per cent, by w. in vol. = per cent, by w. of dist. X by spec, gravity of dist. 
 
V-] DISTILLATION FORMULA. 137 
 
 Wine and distillate have been weighed, and we require— 
 (i) Per cent, by volume in volume of wine. — The percentage 
 by volume of the distillate is multiplied by the specific gra- 
 vity of the wine and divided by the specific gravity of the 
 distillate — 
 
 Per cent, by vol. in vol. = Pei" cent, by vol. in vol. of dist. X by spec, gravity of wine 
 
 by specific gravity of dist. 
 
 (2) Per cent, by weight in weight of wine.— These are at once 
 given by the percentage by weight of the distillate. 
 
 (3) Per cent, by weight in volume of wine. — The percentage 
 by weight of the distillate is multiplied by the specific gravity 
 of the wine — 
 
 Per cent, by w. in vol. = per cent, by w. of dist. X by specific gravity of wine. 
 
 Wine has been measured, distillate weighed. — The percentage 
 by weight of the distillate will give at once per cent, by weight 
 in volunie of wine. 
 
 The method of expressing the alcoholic strength of a wine 
 in per cent, by weight in volume is the one adopted in our 
 tables, and seems to us to be on the whole preferable to 
 every other. If in this case the decimal point is moved one 
 figure to the right, the number of grammes of alcohol contained 
 in one litre of wine is obtained ; and if this latter figure is 
 further multiplied by 7, the number of grains of absolute 
 alcohol in one gallon (6 bottles) of wine is given. 
 
 The English Excise has adopted a method of giving the 
 alcoholic strength of wines or spirits differing from all the 
 foregoing ; namely, in volume per cent, of proof-spirit, indi- 
 cated as degrees by Sykes' hydrometer. These are indicated 
 directly by the specific gravity of the distillate, taken by 
 balance or hydrometer, in case both wine and distillate have 
 been measured. 
 
 In order to show that the above method is very accurate in 
 its application, we give the following determinations of alcohol 
 in mixtures of alcohol and water. Four samples of pure 
 diluted spirit, differing in strength one from the other, were 
 prepared ; after the specific gravity of each had been carefully 
 determined, 250 c. c. were subjected to distillation with the 
 
1 38 DISTILLA TION A CCURA C I '. [chap. 
 
 above described precautions. After the distillate had been 
 brought up to 250 c. c. its specific gravity was taken. The 
 following table represents the results of these operations : — 
 
 First Sample. 
 
 Specific gravity of original spirit, 972'49; strength, ig'li per cent. b. w. 
 » >, distilled „ 972-53; ,, 19-08 „ b. w. 
 
 Second Sample. 
 
 Specific gravity of or^nal spirit, 978-74 ; strength, 14-14 percent b. w. 
 .. >• distilled „ 97882; ,, 14-07 „ b. w. 
 
 Third Sample. 
 
 Specific gravity of original spirit, 984-55 ; strength, 9-53 per cent. b. fi. 
 .. .. distilled ,, 984-48; „ 9-58 ,, b. vif. 
 
 Fourth Sample. 
 
 Specific gravity of original spirit, 991-49 ; strength, 4-82 per cent. b. w. 
 » » distilled „ 991-49; „ 482 „ b. w. 
 
 It will be seen that the two specific gravities are always nearly 
 identical, and differ no more than two separate estimations of 
 the same mixture will frequently differ from each other. If, 
 however, the receiver is kept open, and particularly if the 
 distillate is allowed to drop through any distance, even inside 
 the receiver, or runs down the sides of the receiver to any 
 extent, a loss of 0-25 to O'S per cent, is generally experienced, 
 which, by want of caution in otjier respects, may be increased 
 to 2 per cent, and upwards. 
 
 DETERMINATION OF THE SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF THE 
 ALCOHOL BY INDIRECT MEANS. 
 
 This method was first proposed by Tabarie, and afterwards 
 much used and recommended by Balling and Mulder. It is 
 based upon the following considerations. The presence of a 
 certain amount of alcohol in a mixture will depress its specific 
 gravity below what it would be if the alcohol contained in it 
 were replaced by an equal proportion of water, and this 
 depression will always be effected whether the mixture 
 
v.] METHOD OF TABARIE. ,39 
 
 consists of water and alcohol only, or contains other substances 
 in solution at the same time. Thus a solution containing 10 
 per cent, of cane-sugar, and 90 per cent, of water, has a specific 
 gravity of 1040-4 ; the specific gravity of spirit containing 10 
 per cent, alcohol is 984-1 ; and a solution containing 10 per 
 cent, sugar, 10 per cent, alcohol, and 80 per cent, water has 
 a specific gravity of 1023-857. 
 
 ICX30 : 9841 = 1040-4 ; X. 
 X = 1023-857. 
 
 If then, knowing the specific gravity of such a mixture, we 
 expel the alcohol and replace it by water, and again take the 
 specific gravity, we may calculate the specific gravity of a 
 spirit containing the same percentage of alcohol as the mixture 
 with the help of the following equation : — 
 
 D' : D = 1000 : X ; 
 
 where D' is the specific gravity of the mixture deprived of 
 alcohol, D the specific gravity of the mixture with the alcohol 
 in it. In the above case the equation would show as follows : — 
 
 1040-4 : 1023-857 = 1000 : X. 
 X = 984-1. 
 
 In practice, however, it is generally unnecessary to perform the 
 above calculation, as the specific gravity can be obtained more 
 easily, and with sufficient approximation to truth, according 
 to the following equation (the letters of which have the same 
 significance as those of the above formula) : — 
 
 D + 1000 - D' = X. 
 
 This second formula is, however, inapplicable to wines contain- 
 ing much sugar or extractive, and which give a high value for 
 D'. This may be illustrated by the case above given. X 
 would be 983-45, as calculated by the second formula, instead 
 of 984-1, the right value as calculated by the first. But as the 
 method as a whole has a tendency to give the alcohol rather 
 below than above its actual amount, the second expression gives 
 . generally the more accurate results. 
 
 The particulars of the process as applied to wine are the 
 following. A certain measure or weight (100 c. c. or grammes) 
 
HO BALLING'S METHOD. [chap. 
 
 is carefully evaporated on a water-bath to about a quarter of 
 its bulk ; it is then cooled and mixed with sufficient dis- 
 tilled water again to bring up its weight or bulk to the 
 original weight or bulk. 
 
 In all our experiments we have followed Tabarie's original 
 method, i.e. measuring the wine and bringing the evaporated 
 wine to the same measure by the addition of water. The 
 specific gravity of the spirit calculated from the two data thus 
 obtained we have assumed, with Tabarie, to represent the 
 specific gravity of the distillate, when wine and distillate are 
 measured. According to Balling's plan, however, the evaporated 
 wine is brought to the same weight as the wine taken. The 
 specific gravity of spirit calculated in this case is always 
 slightly lower than that arrived at by the first process, 
 and will therefore give a higher percentage of alcohol. 
 Now as, with very few exceptions (chiefly among the sherries), 
 the percentage of alcohol found by Tabarie's method is 
 somewhat too low, it would appear that Balling's plan 
 will give the more accurate results of the two, more par- 
 ticularly in case of all natural wines with no excessive propor- 
 tion of sugar. 
 
 The operator so economizes his time, that whilst one 
 portion is evaporating he takes the specific gravity of the 
 wine itself upon another portion. As the necessary correction 
 for temperature cannot be added without a knowledge of the 
 strength of the wine, and as, moreover, this correction is 
 influenced by the amount of extractive, the specific gravity 
 should always be taken at 15-5° C. The wine should also 
 previously be shaken to expel carbonic acid. The specific 
 gravity of the evaporated and re-diluted wine is next ascer- 
 tained with the same precaution, and the data thus obtained, 
 when treated according to the second of the above formulae, 
 give the specific gravity sought. To show the degree of 
 accuracy afforded by this method we give the following 
 determinations, in which the alcohol was estimated both by 
 the method here described and by distillation. These 
 analyses are taken at random out of upwards of one 
 hundred comparative determinations. 
 
v.] 
 
 BALLING'S METHOD. 
 
 141 
 
 If sufficient care be taken the estimations will rarely differ 
 more than 0-25 per cent., and not unfrequently the results of 
 both processes will be almost identical. 
 
 Nos. 
 
 D. 
 
 1)1. 
 
 X. 
 
 Corresponding 
 strength. 
 
 Strength by 
 distillation. 
 
 Error. 
 
 I 
 
 990-57 
 
 1007-59 
 
 982-98 
 
 10-83 
 
 II-2I 
 
 -0-38 
 
 2 
 
 991-67 
 
 1006 80 
 
 984-87 
 
 9-29 
 
 9-53 
 
 - 0-24 
 
 7. 
 
 991-60 
 
 1010-39 
 
 981-21 
 
 12-23 
 
 12-35 
 
 - 0-12 
 
 4 
 
 985-98 
 
 1009 98 
 
 976-00 
 
 16-42 
 
 16-39 
 
 + 0-18 
 
 5 
 
 997-32 
 
 1009-55 
 
 987-77 
 
 7-26 
 
 7-44 
 
 -0-i8 
 
 6 
 
 995-98 
 
 1020-46 
 
 975-52 
 
 16-82 
 
 i6-8o 
 
 + 002 
 
 The accuracy obtainable by this process is therefore suffi- 
 ciently great for practical purposes, whilst, as regards rapidity 
 and facility of execution, no other proceeding is at all com- 
 parable to it, more particularly when large numbers of 
 samples have to be examined. In such a case it is only 
 necessary to set all, or as many as possible, of the samples 
 evaporating on the steam-bath. Whilst the evaporation is 
 proceeding the specific gravity of all the wines is taken, 
 and by the time this is accomplished the evaporation 
 will have been finished, the residues have become cool, 
 and be ready for filling up and the determination of their 
 specific gravity. In effect, therefore, one estimation takes 
 up no more time than is consumed in the determination 
 of two specific gravities, and in twice measuring 100 c. c, 
 or weighing out lOO grammes. As, however, in the ordi- 
 nary practice of analysis as applied to wines, the specific 
 gravity is always taken, quite independently of the parti- 
 cular method employed for the determination of the al- 
 cohol, a practice which is a great safeguard of correctness, 
 it is quite fair to subtract the time employed in the ascer- 
 taining of the specific gravity of the wine from the time 
 occupied by the entire process. Further, as the second specific 
 gravity D' gives us the means of calculating the solid residue 
 contained in the wine with considerable accuracy and ap- 
 proximation to the truth, even the time spent over this 
 determination is not wholly employed in the estimation of 
 
142 ALCOHOL DETERMINATION chap. 
 
 alcohol. If only a single sample has to be analysed, con- 
 siderable time will certainly be required on account of the 
 evaporation, which, being necessarily slow, may consume about 
 an hour ; in return for this delay, however, the operation requires 
 no attention, and the operator is at perfect liberty to attend 
 to other matters. Now, great rapidity in the estimation of 
 alcohol is of value only if nothing but the alcohol has to 
 be determined. If anything besides th<siemount of alcohol 
 is required to be known, the analysis of necessity occu- 
 pies much time, and a process which requires little actual 
 work or attention, even if it occupies much time, is of greater 
 value than a process which may be finished in fifteen minutes, 
 but requires complete attention during the whole of that time. 
 Under all circumstances, the plan here considered has the 
 advantage over every other, when six samples and upwards 
 have to be examined contemporaneously. 
 
 It is assumed in this process that the substances present in 
 solution are not altered in their nature during evaporation, 
 and that no volatile substances are present besides the alcohol ; 
 further, it has been assumed that the specific volume of sub- 
 stances present in the solution is the same in diluted spirit as in 
 water, an assumption which may be to a slight degree incorrect. 
 Indeed not one perhaps of the foregoing assumptions is strictly 
 and absolutely true as regards wine, but, as the result of our 
 numerous experiments, it may be stated that they are suffi- 
 ciently near truth to enable us to obtain results accurate 
 enough for the practical purposes of science, trade, or 
 common life. 
 
 METHODS OF ALCOHOL DETERMINATION BASED UPON THE 
 BOILING-POINT OF ALCOHOLIC MIXTURES. 
 
 Many learned men have proposed and used the boiling- 
 point of alcoholic liquids as a measure of their strength. * 
 A number of instruments, to most of which the name 
 of ebullioscope has been given, have been devised for this 
 purpose by Brossard, Vidal, Pohl, Ure, Conaty, and others. 
 These instruments, being all based upon the same principle, 
 could of course differ in matters of detail only. Their 
 
v.] 
 
 BY EBULLIOSCOPES. 
 
 143 
 
 general construction is mostly as follows. Upon a stand 
 is fixed a small metal boiler to receive the wine, heated 
 by a small spirit-lamp underneath the boiler. A delicate 
 thermometer is sunk into the boiler to determine the 
 boiling-point. This thermometer is, however, mostly pro- 
 vided with a converted scale, that is to say, an indicator 
 
 Fig. 28. — Elevation and section of Pohrs EbuUJoscope (one-fourth of natural size). The 
 thermometer has a movable fcale, which, by means o* the screw k^ can be adjusted to 
 the-boiling-point of water. The scale shows degrees centigrade on the left and per 
 .cent alcialUdi by weight on the right. 
 
 which shows at once the percentage of alcohol in the boiling 
 fluid, and not the temperature of its vapour. In some of the 
 instruments a small condenser is added to fix the vapours and 
 compel the fluid to run back into the boiler, and thus keep 
 the alcoholic strength of the boiling liquid constant. The 
 
144 
 
 ALCOHOL DETERMINATION 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 scale of the thermometer is movable, so that the zero-point 
 can at any time be adjusted to the boiling-point of water. 
 The estimation of the alcoholic strength of a wine by means 
 of such an instrument, although in theory exceedingly simple, 
 
 Fig. 29.-Crocltfords Patent Spint Indicator, wuh hydrometertor taking the spec, gr of 
 the wine. A sma condenser is ibted on the top of the boUer to prevent the o^ of 
 alcohol durmgboihng. The zero of the scale of'^the thermometer ?a^ be ajusted to 
 theboilmg-pomt of water by means of the top screw, and can then be WrLt the 
 of Sykes!"" ^ dampmg screw at the side. The scale shows dJecSy degrSl 
 
 is by no means so easy in practice. The experiment is con- 
 ducted as follows. 
 
 If the instrument has a thermometer with movable scale a 
 
v.] BY EBVLLIOSCOPES. 145 
 
 certain measure of water is placed in the boiler, the ther- 
 mometer is introduced, and the lamp lighted ; when the water 
 boils and the position of the mercury in the thermometer has 
 become constant, the zero of the scale is adjusted accordingly. 
 Now this is by no means an easy operation, as everybody will 
 admit who has attempted to ascertain the boiling-point of 
 water with the bulb of the thermometer dipping into the boil- 
 ing liquid ; and all the instruments we have examined are so 
 constructed that the bulb of the thermometer dips into the 
 boiling water or wine. Under these circumstances an error of 
 from o°'S to 1° in the endeavour to adjust the zero may very 
 easily be made. After the zero-point has been fixed the 
 boiler is emptied and allowed to cool ; a measure of wine is 
 then introduced, and the lamp is again lighted. A curious 
 phenomenon will now develop itself; the thermometer rises, 
 at first steadily, then becomes stationary for a time, then 
 rises again, and again is arrested for a moment at a given 
 point. This clearly shows that the wine around the bulb 
 becomes weaker in alcohol at various periods, and causes 
 the mercury to rise. It is therefore necessary to fix upon 
 one of the stationary points as the true boiling-point of the 
 wine if an open boiler be used. Pohl takes the second 
 stop when the thermometer will remain stationary for about 
 fifteen or eighteen seconds; that is to say, in instruments 
 of the exact construction and dimensions adopted by 
 Pohl. This point depends, however, not only upon the 
 alcoholic strength of the boiling wine, but to a great 
 extent upon the size of the flame which burns underneath 
 the boiler; and it is therefore necessary, though not easy, 
 to use always a flame of the same size and spirit of 
 the same strength. Besides, if the flame and instrument be 
 not very carefully guarded against the slightest draught, the 
 thermometer may remain stationary for a time on account of 
 the flame being aff"ected by the draught ; a little careless 
 breathing near the instrument is sufficient to produce this 
 result, and occasion a very considerable error. Those instru- 
 ments which are provided with a condenser are only a little 
 less inaccurate, and, unless the condenser be very large, the 
 
 L 
 
146 ALCOHOL DETERMINATION [cHAP. 
 
 thermometer rises continually at intervals. The condensed 
 liquid runs back into the boiler as often as its quantity is 
 sufficient to overcome adhesion, and causes the thermometer 
 to fluctuate. Altogether, through the difficulty of adjusting 
 the zero and fixing the boiling-point, an error of i per cent, 
 or even 2 per cent, in the alcohol is frequently committed. 
 Indeed, some of the chief advocates of this instrument differ 
 greatly in their statements concerning the boiling-point of 
 alcoholic liquids of the same strength. According to Pohl, 
 the boiling-point of a wine which does not contain too 
 great an amount of extractive is a function only of its 
 alcoholic strength, and practically uninfluenced by the 
 extractive ; he instances as an example that a mixture of 
 lO parts of alcohol and 90 parts of water -boils at the 
 same temperature as a rqixture of 10 alcohol, 15 sugar, 
 and 75 water. In his little Ijook on Austrian wines, how- 
 ever, he gives a nurrjbeF of ej^perinients performed by several 
 French chemists which are entirely opposed to this opinion, 
 inasmuch as they show that the boiling-point of such mixtures 
 is not a function of their alcoholic strength, but rather a func- 
 tion of the proportion existing between the alcohol and water, 
 irrespective of the other constituents. For example, a spirit 
 showed 20-05 per cent. b. v., as tested by the ebullioscope ; 
 in this enough sugar was dissolved to bring its specific gravity 
 to I (about S'9S per cent, of sugar, according to our calcu- 
 lation) ; the ebullioscope still showed 2005 per cent., while the 
 percentage of alcohol in the entire mixture was in reality only 
 19-268 per cent. Another spirit showed 805 per cent, with 
 this instrument : in 200 c. c. of it 28 grammes of tartaric acid 
 were dissolved ; whereupon this mixture still showed 8-05 per 
 cent, alcohol, the boiling-point in each case being 92°. In 
 the second mixture, however, only 7-04 per cent, of alcohol 
 were in reality present, In the same little work several other 
 experiments of a similar nature are mentioned, which, as 
 regards the effect of sugar, we are able fully to confirm. 
 A spirit of JO per cent. h.w. boils sensibly at the same 
 temperature, even after 10 or 20 per cent, of sugar has been 
 dissolved in it, though in the last case the percentage of alcohol 
 
v.] BY VAPORIMETER. 
 
 H7 
 
 is only 8-3 instead of 10. With some of the instruments 
 sold in London a compensation table is supplied. The 
 varying character of the extractive matters render, how- 
 ever, an accurate compensation capable of fitting all wines 
 a matter of impossibility. The very fact, moreover, that 
 one of the principal advocates of the use of the ebuUio- 
 scope could fall into such an error as to suppose that the 
 boiling-point was a function of the alcohoHc strength only, 
 sufficiently demonstrates the difficulty of accurately fixing 
 the boiling-point of a mixture like wine at all. It is 
 impossible accurately to fix the boiling-point of any fluid, 
 if, as is the case with all the ebullioscopes which we 
 have obtained or seen described, the bulb of the ther- 
 mometer dips into the boiling liquid. In those instru- 
 ments where the scale of the thermometer is moveable, and 
 the zero has to be adjusted to the boiling-point of water 
 at each occasion of use, the error committed by the immer- 
 sion of the bulb is still greater; it would be better to 
 have the scale fixed, and apply the correction for varying 
 barometric pressure by means of a table. 
 
 METHOD OF ALCOHOL-DETERMINATION BASED UPON THE 
 VAPOUR TENSION OF ALCOHOLIC LIQUIDS. 
 
 GEISLER'S INSTRUMENT — VAPORIMETER. 
 
 The vaporimeter has been invented and constructed by the 
 philosophical mechanician Geisler, of Bonn, and its theory 
 was afterwards made the subject of research by Professor 
 PlUcker. It is based upon the circumstance that the tension 
 of the vapour of a mixture of pure alcohol and water at 
 the temperature of 100° rises with the alcoholic strength. 
 The tension of a vapour rising from a mixed liquid is, 
 however, greatly influenced by the relative space occupied by 
 the vapour and the unevaporated part of the mixture, and 
 this particular circumstance so far modifies the general 
 applicability of the above law, that in practice it becomes 
 requisite either to manufacture the diff"erent parts of all 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 ALCOHOL DETERMINATLON 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 instruments of the same relative sizes, or to graduate each 
 instrument separately. 
 
 The instrument made by M. Geisler consists of a small 
 brass boiler A, in which water can be boiled ; a small flask O, 
 fitted by means of a stopper to the double bent pressure 
 
 Fig- 30. — GeisTer's Vapoi-imeter (about one-fifth of naitural size). The rising tube 
 and scale a B is represented up to one-third of its relative length only. 
 
 tube B ; it can be fixed together with the double steam-jacket 
 and thermometer on the boiler A. The. steam from the boiling 
 water rises up the cylindrical central space, heating thereby 
 the flask O, then goes through the apertures D D, into the 
 outer jacket, and escapes at c. By these means the little 
 flask O is heated to a constant temperature, measured by the 
 thermometer fixed in the top of the steam-chamber. 
 
v.] BY VAPORFMETER. 149 
 
 To fill the instrument for use the steam-jacket is lifted off, 
 the bottle and pressure tube are detached from the boiler and 
 inverted ; the little flask is next separated from the tube, and 
 having been previously filled up to the contracted neck with 
 clean mercury is entirely filled with the wine to be tested. 
 The bottle is now again fixed to the tube and inverted ; the 
 wine will now of course occupy the top of the bottle, where 
 no air-bubbles should be visible. The bottle and tube are 
 fixed over the boiler, the steam-jacket is replaced, and the 
 water boiled. As the wine in the flask becomes heated, 
 vapour will be formed, and some of the mercury be forced 
 from the bottle into the tube, in which it will gradually 
 rise until the height of its column exactly counteracts the 
 pressure of the vapours rising from the wine at the tempera- 
 ture of boiling water, as marked by the thermometer. This 
 height to which the mercurial column rises is the measure 
 of the alcoholic strength of the wine. 
 
 The instruments are provided with converted scales, 
 which give at once the per cent, of alcohol by weight or 
 volume. But as water boils at different temperatures at 
 different times or places, a table is provided giving the 
 amount of correction for temperature to be applied to the 
 strength found. 
 
 This instrument, at first sight so ingenious and apparently 
 accurate, offers in practice some very considerable difficulties. 
 Firstly, the carbonic acid present in all wines requires to be 
 removed by the addition of a little dry slaked lime and 
 filtration. Secondly, wine, even after this treatment, holds 
 more or less air in solution, which being expelled by the 
 heating, augments the pressure so as to increase the apparent 
 percentage of alcohol by from 0-2 to 04 per cent, above the 
 real. As a consequence of this circumstance, it is always 
 discovered that after heating and partial cooling an air- 
 bubble has collected at the top of the wine. By carefully 
 inverting the flask and pressure-tube this bubble can be 
 removed, and on second heating a lower percentage of alcohol 
 will be found. This removal of the air requires so much 
 time and trouble, that the estimation has virtually to 
 
I50 ALCOHOL DETERMINATION [chap. 
 
 be made twice over. This trouble is accompanied with 
 much danger to the instrument, which has to be handled 
 while it is yet quite hot, as otherwise the air or gas would 
 again, at least partially, dissolve in the cold wine. Neverthe- 
 less a second, or after its removal even a third air-bubble 
 will sometimes make its appearance on re-heating. Nor is it 
 exactly an unmixed advantage if all the air has been got 
 rid of, for then the attraction between the glass and wine 
 is so great that sometimes no vapour at all is produced on 
 heating, and the mercury in the tube does not rise even if 
 the water be kept boiling for several minutes. If then the 
 instrument be slightly shaken, a sudden burst of vapour is 
 evolved, which not unfrequently throws out some mercury, 
 or loosens the connections between bottle and pressure-tube, 
 and thus spoils the experiment. In rare instances, no amount 
 of shaking that can be safely applied to the instrument is 
 sufficient to induce the formation of vapours. 
 
 The vaporimeter, like the ebullioscope, does not indicate the 
 strength of the wine, but only the proportion between water 
 and alcohol, without regard to all such solid constituents as 
 have no chemical affinity for the water or alcohol. For ex- 
 ample, three portions of spirit of \\% per cent, were taken: one 
 portion tested gave, with the aid of the necessary corrections, 
 I4'8 per cent. ; in the second portion lo per cent, sugar was 
 dissolved, the instrument gave its strength as 147 per cent. ; 
 in the third portion 20 per cent, of sugar was dissolved ; 
 the instrument still gave the strength as 14-9 per cent., 
 although in reality the last sample contained only iO"93 
 per cent, of alcohol. The error thus committed is not 
 very considerable in light wines containing little solid 
 matter, but with strong heavy wines it may rise to a 
 considerable amount. 
 
 If the substances present in the wine have any affinity for 
 water, this error is greatly augmented; in one ounce of the 
 above spirit (14-8 per cent.) 100 grains of calcium chloride 
 were dissolved, after which the instrument gave the strength 
 of the mixture as 2 1 -8 1 per cent, whilst in reality it was only 
 i2'27 per cent. 
 
v.] BY VAPOEIMETER. 151 
 
 Any substances present in the wine which are more volatile 
 than alcohol may also influence the result considerably. In 
 several samples of Greek wines, and in a sample of Sauterne, 
 we have met with aldehyde. The latter wine when treated by 
 distillation gave 9-22 per cent, of alcohol, whilst the vapori- 
 meter gave its strength as iO'45 per cent. 
 
 The chief advantages of the instrument are that but a very 
 small quantity of wine is required, and that constant watching 
 is not necessary, as the mercury does not continue to rise, but 
 remains stationary at a given point. On the other hand, one 
 single estimation, with rendering the wine alkaline, filtering 
 and heating it, removing the air-bubble and again heating 
 it, occupies at least half an hour, and is therefore decidedly 
 slower than the process by means of the ebuUioscope. But 
 the vaporimeter is superior to the ebuUioscope in accuracy 
 thus far, that the error that can be made is less considerable 
 than that to which the ebuUioscope is liable. 
 
 As the instrument is provided with a converted scale, 
 showing percentages at once, we must either remain entirely 
 dependent on the accuracy of the maker or control it by a 
 number of careful experiments ; and if unhappily the small 
 bottle or pressure-tube is broken, the graduation has to be 
 effected anew. It is very necessary to verify every instrument, 
 as the following experiments will show. 
 
 Four samples of diluted spirit were prepared, and their 
 strength carefully estimated by specific gravity (portions of 
 the same samples were used in the experiments on distilla- 
 tion). They were then carefully examined by our Geisler's 
 instrument, the necessary corrections for temperature being 
 of course added. 
 
 Difference. 
 1-63 
 
 1. Strength by specific gravity 16 '87 
 
 vaporimeter ... ••• IS'24 
 
 2. Strength by specific gravity 1376 
 
 vaporimeter I2'99 
 
 3. Strength by specific gravity 10-03 ( ^^ 
 
 ,, vaporimeter 9 '53 \ 
 
 4. Strength by specific gravity 4'8l ) ^.^^ 
 
 ,, vaporimeter .-. ■•• 4'42 ) 
 
 5. Strength by specific gravity ••■ 2'30 ) q. ^ 
 
 ,, vaporimeter ■■■ i'94 ) 
 
 077 
 
152 
 
 ALCOHOL DETERMINATION 
 
 [chap. 
 
 We extract a similar table from Mohr, loc. cit. 
 
 1. Strength by specific gravity 
 
 „ vaporimeter 
 
 2. Strengtii by specific gravity 
 
 „ vaporimeter 
 
 3. Strength by specific gravity 
 
 ,, vaporimeter 
 
 4. Strength by specific gravity 
 
 ,, vaporimeter 
 
 From these results it appears that the determination of 
 alcohol by Geisler's instrument generally furnishes quantities 
 which are below those actually contained in the mixtures. 
 
 We subjoin a number of comparative estimations of alcohol 
 in various wines, premising that in all of them the previously 
 estimated error of the instrument has been added. 
 
 
 Difference. 
 
 20- 
 
 i8-8 
 
 
 1-2 
 
 15- 
 134 
 
 
 1-6 
 
 lO' 
 
 8-8 
 
 i 
 
 I '2 
 
 4-2 
 
 
 0-8 
 
 Light Claret. 
 
 By distillation 
 
 90s 
 
 
 By vaporimeter 
 
 lOI 
 
 
 Dry residue left by wine 
 
 2 '167 per cent. 
 
 Hungarian Wine. 
 
 By distillation 
 
 ■ 10-59 
 
 
 By vaporimeter 
 
 • ■ 989 
 
 
 Dry residue 
 
 I '873 per cent. 
 
 Steinberg Cabinet. 
 
 By distillation 
 
 974 
 
 
 By vaporimeter 
 
 9-26 
 
 
 Dry residue 
 
 I 478 per cent. 
 
 Raitenthaler. 
 
 By distillation 
 
 7"44 
 
 
 By vaporimeter 
 
 777 
 
 
 Dry residue 
 
 I -8 per cent. 
 
 Marsala. 
 
 By distillation , 
 
 i6'92 
 
 
 By vaporimeter 
 
 17-84 
 
 
 Dry residue 
 
 3-3 per cent. 
 
 Hattenheima: 
 
 By distillation 
 
 9 97 
 
 
 By vaporimeter 
 
 975 
 
 
 Dry residue 
 
 I '4 per cent. 
 
 Marsala. 
 
 By distillation 
 
 16 -So 
 
 
 By vaporimeter 
 
 • 1779 
 
 
 Dry residue 
 
 3 '5 per cent. 
 
 METHOD OF ALCOHOL-DETERMINATION BASED UPON THE 
 EXPANSIBILITY OF ALCOHOLIC MIXTURES BY HEAT. 
 
 SILBERMANN'S DILATOMETER. 
 
 Pure absolute alcohol, when heated from 0° to 78-3° C, 
 
 expands from i to 1-0936, v/hilst water between the same 
 
 limits expands only from i to 1-0278. The expansion of 
 
 alcohol is therefore nearly 3^ times greater than that of water. 
 
v.] 
 
 B V DILA TO METER. 
 
 153 
 
 This is the absolute expansion, but the difference between the 
 apparent expansion of the two as measured in a glass vessel 
 is even a little greater. If we could measure the expansion 
 in a vessel having the same co-efficient of expansion as water, 
 it is obvious that in such a vessel water would show no expan- 
 sion whatever, whilst the apparent expansion of alcohol would 
 still be 2\ times greater than the absolute expansion of water. 
 In mixtures of alcohol and water, the rate of expansion 
 increases with the increasing percentage of alcohol, though 
 in rather a greater ratio, and is consequently a function of 
 the strength. 
 
 Upon the.se considerations Silbermann has based the con- 
 struction of his instrument, termed the dilatometer. It may- 
 be considered as a large thermometer which is 
 always filled to the same point with the wine to 
 be tested, and the amount of expansion when the 
 wine. is heated from 25° C. to 50° C. is measured 
 by the rise of the liquid in the stem, which latter 
 is provided with a converted scale showing at 
 once percentages. 
 
 To facilitate the filling of the instrument, it 
 is made like a pipette, the lower opening of 
 which can be closed by a cork-disk, pressed 
 against it by a long screw worked from the top. 
 Into the upper narrow end an air-tight piston 
 with hollow rod is fitted, which can be used as 
 a small air-pump, by means of which the air 
 can be removed from the wine previous to 
 heating. 
 
 The instrument being filled to a point some- 
 what above the mark, and the air removed, is 
 next placed into a water-bath heated to 25° C, 
 the temperature being measured by a mercurial 
 thermometer fixed to the same plate as the dila- 
 tometer. Here the first serious difficulty is encountered, for 
 except when the bath has been kept stationary at a tempe- 
 rature of 25° C. for at least ten minutes, we cannot be sure 
 that the wine in the instrument has the same temperature 
 
 -'\ 
 
 \ 
 
 Fig. 31. ^ 
 Silbermann's 
 Dilatometer. 
 
154 SILBERMANN'S [chap. 
 
 as that shown by the mercurial thermometer. The tempe- 
 rature having been obtained, and retained sufiSciently long, 
 which is by no means easy, the excess of wine is allowed to 
 run out by slightly opening the lower aperture, so that the 
 instrument remains filled just to the proper mark. The 
 temperature of the water-bath is next raised to 50° C, when 
 the same difficulty as at the lower temperature will be encoun- 
 tered in a higher degree. When at last the temperature has 
 been kept up sufficiently long, the rise of the wine in the 
 stem of the instrument gives the strength. As the instru- 
 ments sold in trade are provided with a converted scale, each 
 instrument has to be verified. The graduation appears 
 generally to give equal intervals for one per cent, in different 
 parts of the scale, although the expansion increases in a 
 somewhat higher proportion than the strength. Silbermann 
 assumes that the presence of sugar or extractive does not 
 sensibly affect the rate of expansion. We believe this 
 assumption to be correct only in those cases where a small 
 amount of either is present ; when a larger amount is present, 
 they increase the expansion. 
 
 Three examples of spirit, containing respectively 10, 
 12-5, and 15 per cent, by weight, were carefully prepared, 
 and in a part of each of the first and last sample varying 
 proportions of sugar were dissolved. The quantity by 
 weight filling a specific gravity bottle (Fig. 26, p. 134) 
 at varying temperatures was then determined for each of 
 these samples. At higher temperatures the bottle holds 
 of course less liquid by weight, and this loss when divided 
 by the specific gravity of the liquid gives the increase in 
 bulk in cubic centimetres. This bulk in centimetres ex- 
 presses the amount by which the liquid would rise in the stem 
 of the dilatometer ; but as the temperature of the liquid is 
 determined by a thermometer immersed in it, and as with 
 the balance variations in weight of O'l to 0'2 milligrammes 
 are perceptible, much more accurate results are obtained 
 by weighing than by the observation of dilatation. 
 
 The specific gravity bottle was cooled or heated in a large 
 water-bath, the water of which was kept in a constant state of 
 
V.J DILATOMETER. 155 
 
 agitation. A thermometer was at the same time placed into 
 the water of the bath, and the heat so regulated that this 
 thermometer and the thermometer in the specific gravity- 
 bottle showed as nearly as possible the same temperature. 
 The bottle on being taken out of the bath was dried and 
 allowed to stand in the balance case until it had assumed the 
 proper temperature. 
 
 spirit of 10 per cent. Specific gravity, 983 'S. 
 
 Weight of contents of bottle at 10° = 23'ii42 grms. 
 
 ., „ 25° = 23-0356 „ 
 
 50° = 22-7954 „ 
 
 Loss in weight between 10° and 25° = 0-0766 „ 
 
 ,, ,, ,, 25° and 50° = 0-2402 „ 
 
 Increase in bulk between 10° and 25° = 0"0776 cub. cent. 
 
 „ ,. 25° and 50° = 0-2441 „ 
 
 Spirit of 12' <) percent. Specific gravity, 980-8. 
 Weight of contents of bottle at 25° = 22-9503 grms. 
 
 5°° __ = 22-6979 „ 
 
 Loss in weight between 25° and 50° = 0-2524 „ 
 
 Increase in bulk between ,, „ = 0-2573 cub. cent. 
 
 Spirit of 15 per cent. Specific gravity, 977 -7. 
 
 Weight of contents of bottle at 
 
 10° 
 
 = 
 
 22-9708 grms. 
 
 >j )» j» 
 
 25° 
 
 = 
 
 22-8701 ,, 
 
 jj »j j» 
 
 50° 
 
 = 
 
 22-5986 ,, 
 
 Loss in weight between 
 
 10° and 25° 
 
 = 
 
 0-1007 „ 
 
 »> >» >» 
 
 25° and 50° 
 
 = 
 
 0-2715 „ 
 
 Increase in bulk between 
 
 10° and 25° 
 
 = 
 
 0-1029 cub. cent. 
 
 )) »» »> 
 
 25° and 50° 
 
 = 
 
 0-2766 „ 
 
 Summary. — Increase in bulk between 25° and 50° : — 
 Of 10 per cent, spirit .... 0-2441 cub. cent. 
 „ I2-S „ „ . . . . 0-2573 
 
 „ IS ,. °'2766 
 
 Mean rise of increase per cent, between 
 10 per cent, and 12-5 per cent. = 0-0053 cub. cent. 
 
 12-5 „ and 15 ,, = 0-0077 „ 
 
 Increase in bulk between 10° and 25° : — 
 Of 10 per cent, spirit = 0-0778 cub. cent. 
 
 „ IS >. .. = °''°29 „ 
 
 Mean increase in bulk for a rise of one degree between the temperatures of 10° and 
 25°|:— Spirit of 10 per cent. 0-0052 ; spirit of 15 per cent. 0-0068. 
 Between the temperatures of 25° and 50° : — 
 Spirit of 10 per cent. 0-00976 cub. cent. 
 12-5 „ 0-01029 .. 
 IS .. 0-01106 „ 
 
156 SILBERMANN'S [cHAP. 
 
 Spirit and Sugar. Spirit of lo per cent, with 5 pa- cent, cane-sugar dissolved in it. 
 Specific gravity, 1003 '8. 
 
 Weight of contents of bottle at 10° = 23-5832 grms. 
 
 25° = 23-9958 „ 
 
 50° = 23'2S29 .. 
 
 Loss in weight between 10° and 25° = 0-0867 ,, 
 
 „ „ 25° and 50° = 0-2429 „ 
 
 Increase in bulk between 10° and 25° = 0-0864 cub. cent. 
 
 ,, „ „ 25° and 50° = 0-2419 „ 
 
 Spirit of 10 per cent, with 10 per ceiit. of sugar dissolved in it. Specific 
 gravity, 1023-8. 
 
 Weight of contents of bottle at 25° = 23-9571 grms. 
 
 50° = 23-7110 „ 
 
 Loss in weight between 25° and 50° = 0-2461 „ 
 
 Increase in bulk between 25° and 50° = 0-2403 cub. cent. 
 
 Spirit of \<^ per cent, with 10 per cent, of sugar. Specific gravity, 1017-7. 
 
 Weight of contents of bottle at 10° = 23-9144 grms. 
 
 25° = 23-7990 „ 
 
 50° = 23-5212 „ 
 
 Loss in weight between 10° and 25° = 0-1154 ,, 
 
 „ „ ,, 25° and 50° = 0-2778 „ 
 
 Increase in bulk between 10° and 25° = o-i 133 cub. cent. 
 
 „ „ 25° and 50° = 0-2730 
 
 Summary. — Increase in bulk between 25° and 50°: — 
 
 Of 10 per cent, spirit with 5 per cent, sugar 0-2429 cub. cent. 
 
 „ 10 „ „ 10 „ „ 0-2403 ,, 
 
 „ IS .. » lo .. .. 0-2730 
 
 Increase in bulk between io° and 25°: — 
 
 Of 10 per cent, sj^irit with 5 per cent, sugar o'o864 cub. cent. 
 
 ., 15 ., .. 10 .. .. 0-II33 
 
 Mean increase in bulk between temperatures of 10° and 25° for a rise of one degree: — 
 
 Of 10 per cent, spirit with 5 per cent, sugar 0-0057 cub. cent. 
 „ 15 .. .> 10 .. .. 0-0075 .. 
 
 Mean increase for a rise of one degree between 25° and 50°: — 
 
 Of 10 per cent, spirit with 5 per cent, sugar 0-00967 cub. cent. 
 „ 10 „ „ 10 „ ,, 0-00961 ,, 
 
 „ 15 .. .. 1° ,. .. 0-01092 „ 
 
 Increase in bulk between 10° and 25°: — 
 
 Of 10 per cert, spirit = 0-0778 cub. cent. 
 
 ,, 10 ,, ,, with 5 per cent, sugar 0-0864 >> 
 
 „ 15 >. .> = 0-1029 
 
 ,, 15 „ ,. with 10 percent, sugar 0-1154 „ 
 
v.] DILA TOME TER. 1 5 7 
 
 Increase in bulk between temperatures of 25° and 50° : — 
 
 Of 10 per cent, spirit = 0-2441 cub. cent. 
 
 >> 10 i> >> with 5 per cent, sugar 0'24I9 
 
 » 10 ,, „ ,, 10 „ = 0-2403 
 
 „ 125 ., ,. = 0-2573 
 
 .. 15 >> i> = 0-2766 
 
 ,, IS >> .. with 10 percent, sugar 0-2730 
 
 According to this the strength of tlie 
 
 10 per cent, spirit with S per cent, sugar would be found 9-58 per cent, instead 
 of 9-5 per cent. 
 
 10 per cent, spirit with lo.per cent, sugar would be found 9-27 per cent, instead 
 of 9 'o per cent. 
 
 IS per cent, spirit with 10 per cent, sugar would be found 1454 per cent, instead 
 of 13-5 per cent. 
 
 These detailed calculations and observations show that the 
 addition of sugar to spirit increases the rate of expansion very 
 decidedly at lower temperatures ; but inasmuch as the rate of 
 increase in the expansion is less rapid in the spirit with 
 sugar than in the spirit alone, the latter gradually overcomes 
 the other, so that at higher temperatures the amount of ex- 
 pansion of the pure spirit is higher than that of the spirit and 
 sugar. It may thus be possible to select a range of tempera- 
 ture in which the increase in bulk of these two spirits is exactly 
 proportional to their strength. This is very nearly the case 
 between the temperature of 25° to 50°, provided the wine is 
 not too strong and does not contain more than about 5 per 
 cent, of extractive. 
 
 With wines which fulfil this proviso Silbermann's instrument 
 may give tolerably accurate results, provided very great care 
 is exercised in the filling of the instrument and in the manage- 
 ment of the temperature. But of all the different instruments 
 proposed this will certainly require the greatest amount of 
 care. To strong wines containing much solid matter the 
 instrument, as usually constructed, is quite inapplicable. 
 
 RESUME. 
 
 With light wines all the methods considered give tolerably 
 accurate results; the process of distillation and Balling's 
 plan give, however, the best results. The other methods 
 require great care and skill, and are liable to very con- 
 
158 STATE OF ALCOHOL [chap. 
 
 siderable errors from even slight inattention to minute points 
 in the manipulation or in the character of the wine. With 
 strong heavy wines no process except that of distillation 
 and Balling's plan deserves any consideration, the latter plan 
 being also in all cases the most expeditious where a number 
 of alcohol determinations have to be performed.^ 
 
 EXPERIMENTS ON THE STATE IN WHICH ALCOHOL IS 
 CONTAINED IN WINE. 
 
 The question whether alcohol is present in wine as free 
 alcohol or is only produced and liberated during distillation, 
 has frequently been asked, and answered sometimes in the 
 negative, sometimes in the affirmative. The observation 
 giving rise to this question is that pure wine differs in taste 
 from wine to which alcohol has been added. Most persons 
 of moderate experience in tasting wine are able to detect the 
 addition of a few per cent, of alcohol to a wine, even if its 
 strength after this addition is not greater than the strength 
 of many pure wines in which the spirit cannot be detected by 
 the taste. A practised wine taster will detect the addition of 
 even a few pro milles of alcohol to a pure wine. From this 
 fact it has been argued that, inasmuch as no alcohol can be 
 tasted in the pure wine, whilst the addition of even a few 
 pro milles is instantly detected, no free alcohol is contained 
 in the wine, but that it exists in some kind of combination, and 
 that the application of heat breaks up the compound, alcohol 
 distilling over, the other constituent remaining behind. This 
 notion being once started, it was soon endeavoured to prove 
 its correctness by other means than the palate. It was 
 alleged that the alcohol naturally present in the wine required 
 a greater amount of heat to distil off, and could not be 
 separated by the addition of an excess of anhydrous potassic 
 carbonate ; whilst the alcohol added could be more readily 
 distilled off and could be easily separated by the addition 
 
 1 It has also been proposed to estimate the alcoholic strength of a wine bv its 
 capillary attraction. Irrespective, however, of the serious difficulty of accurately 
 estimating this capillarity, we find that the presence of sugar has such a stron" 
 influence on its amoimt as to make this method totally inapplicable to the purpose 
 proposed. 
 
v.] CONTAINED IN WINE. 
 
 '59 
 
 of potassic carbonate. These statements were, however, 
 proved to be erroneous soon after their first publication; 
 nevertheless the idea of the production of the alcohol during 
 distillation is still maintained by some, and has a strong hold 
 upon many of the public, the evidence believed to be 
 afforded by the palate being by them thought unanswerable. 
 We have therefore taken some trouble to investigate this 
 point, and may at once state that we have not found a single 
 physical or chemical property possessed by wine, which is 
 not in perfect harmony with* the assumption that it contains 
 the alcohol as a simple admixture, and not in any sort of 
 combination. 
 
 The experiments undertaken with a view of deciding this 
 point were the following. A pure wine was taken from which 
 the spirit was carefully distilled off in a water-bath, with the 
 precautions previously described to avoid loss of spirit ; the 
 distillate was then again added to the residue in the retort. 
 In this manner a rnixture was obtained as nearly as possible 
 the same as the original wine, but containing all its alcohol 
 as distilled, free alcohol. This mixture was then compared 
 with the original wine. No difference between the two could 
 be detected as regards (i) the specific gravity, (2) boiling- 
 point, (3) vapour tension at low and high temperatures, (4) 
 effects of freezing, (5) facility with which the alcohol could be 
 separated, (6) endosmotic equivalent, (7) capillary attraction, 
 and (8) specific heat. Points i, 2, and 3 were estimated in 
 the usual manner. To test point 5, equal quantities of wine 
 or mixture were placed in a retort, itself immersed in a 
 water-bath heated to various degrees of temperature, whilst 
 a rapid current of air was driven through the liquid in the 
 retort. After a certain quantity of air had been blown 
 through, the alcoholic strength of the residue was determined. 
 It was found that up to a temperature of about 40° C. the 
 wine or mixture evaporated nearly as a whole, the strength 
 of the residue scarcely diminishing, at the same time no 
 difference whatever being perceptible between the original 
 -wine and the mixture. The endosmotic equivalent was esti- 
 mated as follows : — A short wide tube was taken, the lower 
 
i6o STATE OF ALCOHOL. [CHAP. 
 
 end of which was closed by having a piece of thin pig's 
 bladder stretched over it. Into this tube a certain quantity of 
 wine was weighed, and it was then suspended in a large 
 beaker of distilled water, so that the inner and outer levels 
 were equal. The water in the beaker was changed daily, 
 and the weight of tube and contents taken. The experiment 
 was considered closed when two weighings of the tube sepa- 
 rated by an interval of a day were identical. The contents 
 of the tube were then thrown away, and a quantity of distilled, 
 &c. wine placed in instead, and treated otherwise exactly 
 as above. The weight of the tube had become constant in 
 forty-five days in the first, and in thirty-three days in the second 
 case ; the temperature in the first case being throughout lower 
 than in the second. It was then found that for every one 
 part of alcohol that had passed outward through the bladder 
 into the water in the case of the wine, 6-35 parts of distilled 
 water had passed into the tube; in the case of the distilled, 
 &c. wine, 6'42 parts had passed in. The endosmotic equi- 
 valent is therefore the same for both, for these two figures are 
 quite as close as two successive experiments with the same 
 wine would have been. 
 
 The capillary attraction was measured in two tubes. At 
 a temperature of 8° C. the wine rose to 5278 and 3573°"" 
 respectively; the distilled, &c. wine to 52-85 and 3578°"". 
 Lastly, the specific heat of the wine and distilled, &c. wine 
 were compared: the former was found to be i'0047, the 
 latter 1-0054, yielding a difference quite within the limits of 
 error of the experiment. 
 
 It will thus be seen that in all the foregoing eight cha- 
 racters, some of which, such as the endosmotic equivalent and 
 the specific heat, would certainly have revealed even slight 
 differences in the physical or chemical character of the two 
 liquids had there been any, no difference could be detected ; 
 and we are therefore justified in assuming that no such dif- 
 ference exists. The indubitable difference in taste between 
 the alcohol naturally present and the alcohol added, must 
 therefore be otherwise accounted for. The alcohol from fer- 
 mented liquids is always accompanied by other substances • 
 
v.] ALDEHYDES IN WINE. i6i 
 
 some of them, like the alcohol, products of fermentation ; 
 others produced by the action of the heat on parts of the 
 fermented liquid. Some of these products adhere to the 
 alcohol with the greatest pertinacity, so as to be scarcely 
 separable, and impart to it in great measure the pungent 
 taste. What tastes disagreeable, therefore, is not the alcohol, 
 but these foreign admixtures. That this is probably the correct 
 explanation is shown by the fact that the greater the trouble 
 taken in purifying alcohol, the less marked is this taste. If, 
 for example, what is ordinarily called pure spirit of wine is 
 distilled repeatedly over caustic lime, is then diluted to a 
 strength of 20 to 30 per cent, and filtered frequently 
 through fresh charcoal, the taste becomes less and less 
 pungent, and, if judged by the taste, the mixture would be 
 taken as very much weaker than in reality it is. It seems 
 therefore reasonable to suppose that, if we should succeed 
 in obtaining alcohol absolutely free from these admixtures, it 
 would be found as free from this peculiar (spirituous) taste 
 as wine itself 
 
 ALDEHYDES IN WIN-E. 
 An aldehyde is the first product of the conversion of 
 a primary alcohol into its acid, by means of an oxydizing. 
 agent, thus : — 
 
 Alcohol. Aldehyde. 
 
 C„H,„ + ,0 + = c„H,„o + H.,a 
 
 Aldehyde. Acid. 
 
 C„ H^, O + O = C„ H,„ O,. 
 The only aldehyde of tlie series which has been proved 
 to be present in wine, up to this time, is acet-aldehyde 
 (C2 H4 O), produced by the oxydation of ethylic alcohol. 
 It seems not improbable, however, that wine owes part of 
 its bouquet to the presence of some of the higher members 
 of the series. Their presence may perhaps be inferred 
 from the considerable absorbing power for oxygen pos- 
 sessed by some wines, a property highly characteristic of 
 aldehydes. 
 
 ACET-ALDEHYDE. 
 
 Wine, when exposed to the action of atmospheric air, is 
 
 M 
 
i62 ACET-ALDEHYDE [chap. 
 
 gradually converted into vinegar. If a tolerably free access 
 of air be permitted, the only product formed from the alcohol is 
 acetic acid. If, however, the access of air is very limited, 
 oxydation frequently stops short at the first stage, and 
 aldehyde is formed. This conversion of alcohol into 
 aldehyde and acid (acetic fermentation) seems to be pro- 
 moted by the presence of albuminous substances (though 
 it is not by any means, like alcoholic fermentation, de- 
 pendent on these) ; and, accordingly, wines containing such 
 matters are much more liable to this fermentation than 
 such as are free from them. 
 
 Aldehyde may be prepared by oxydizing alcohol by means 
 of binoxyde of manganese and dilute sulphuric acid. It forms 
 a colourless, very mobile liquid of extremely suffocating 
 smell, the inhalation of its vapour causing spasms of the 
 glottis. Its elementary formula is Cj H^ O. It boils at 
 a temperature of 22° C, has a specific gravity of 08055, 
 and mixes with water, alcohol, and ether in every pro- 
 portion. When exposed to the action of the air, more 
 particularly when diluted, it rapidly absorbs oxygen, and is 
 converted into acetic acid. When boiled with silver salt.s, it 
 reduces them to the metallic state, the silver being deposited 
 as a bright mirror on the sides of the vessel. This reaction 
 may be used to detect the presence of even minute quantities 
 of aldehyde. Of course no other substances having a similar 
 action on silver salts, as formic acid for example, must be 
 present. Nascent hydrogen reconverts the aldehyde into 
 alcohol (C2 H, O + H^ = C2 H^ O). 
 
 The presence of aldehyde in a wine, even in very minute 
 quantity, is readily detected by its very peculiar and charac- 
 teristic smell and flavour. If such a wine be neutralized by an 
 alkali, to fix the volatile acids, and submitted to distillation 
 through a well-cooled condenser, the aldehyde may be readily 
 detected in the first portions of the distillate by its smell, 
 flavour, its reducing action on silver salts, and by its easy 
 conversion into acetic acid. 
 
 We have in this manner detected the presence of 
 aldehyde in a variety of Greek wines (of these wines, 
 
v.] IN WINE. _ 163 
 
 indeed, it seems to form a characteristic feature), in 
 one sample of Rhine wine, and one sample of Sauternes. 
 The last two samples had been left standing in upright 
 and badly corked bottles in an ordinary sitting-room; for 
 nearly a year. This makes it probable that acet-aldehyde 
 is not a normal constituent of sound wine, but that its 
 presence must be looked, upon, as a. decided mark of 
 unsoundness. 
 
 M 2 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE ACIDS IN WINE. 
 
 List of acids — Varieties of tartaric acid. — Dextro-tartaric acid (ordinary tartaric 
 acid). — Levo-tartaric acid. — Racemic acid (para-tartaric acid). — Malic acid. — 
 Succinic acid. — Relations of tlie foregoing acids to each other. — Acetic acid. — 
 Acetic ether. — Acetates of propyl, butyl, amyl, caproyl, &c. — Formic, 
 propionic, butyric, valerianic, caproic, &c. acids. — Estimation of the quantity 
 of acids in wine. — Estimation of tartaric acid and bitartrate of potash in wine. 
 
 LIST OF ACIDS. 
 The acids hitherto distinctly recognized as present in wine 
 are the following :— 
 
 Tartaric acid ~j 
 
 Malic , , / present in the grape. 
 
 Tannic , , 
 
 Acetic acid 
 
 Formic ,, 
 
 c„^,.;„;^ ) produced during fermentation, 
 
 ouccmic ,, I 
 
 Carbonic , , ) 
 
 In addition to these, wine nearly always contains traces of 
 some of the higher members of the fatty acid series, as pro- 
 pionic, butyric, and particularly oenanthic acid. 
 
 VARIETIES OF TARTARIC ACID. 
 
 We are acquainted with no less than six modifications , of 
 tartaric acid, most of which are almost identical in their 
 chemical behaviour, but differ remarkably in some of their 
 physical characteristics. They are — 
 
 Dextro-tartaric acid (ordinary 
 
 tartaric acid). 
 Levo-tartaric acid. 
 Meta-tartaric acid. 
 
 Racemic acid (para-tartaric 
 
 acid. 
 Inactive tartaric acid. 
 Meso-tartaric acid. 
 
CHAP. vi.J VARIETIES OF TARTARIC ACID. 165 
 
 The empirical formula of all these acids is the same, viz, 
 C^HbOs. They are all dibasic, and form, therefore, two 
 classes of salts and ethers, neutral and acid. The acid potas- 
 sium salt of each is little soluble in water, almost insoluble in 
 alcohol and ether. 
 
 One of the most characteristic properties of the two first 
 acids is their action on polarized light; they possess the 
 power of turning the plane of this light the first to the right, 
 and the second to the left. The last four have no action 
 on polarized light. 
 
 Only the first, second, and fourth acids on the list have 
 been found in wine. 
 
 Tartaric acid has been prepared artificially in a variety of 
 ways, some of which are of considerable theoretical interest. 
 Sugar of milk, or gum, when boiled for some time with dilute 
 nitric acid, yields a considerable quantity of tartaric acid 
 identical in its properties with ordinary or dextro-tartaric 
 acid. A small quantity of racemic acid is formed simul- 
 taneously. Mannit and dulcit treated in like manner, yield 
 racemic acid ; sorbin yields racemic, dextro-tartaric, and meso- 
 tartaric acid. Mucic acid gives racemic acid ; dibromosuccinic 
 acid, when boiled with excess of lime-water, or its silver salt, 
 when boiled by itself, yield tartaric acid. The acid thus 
 obtained, however, while optically inactive, is not identical 
 with racemic acid, for its lime salt is more soluble in boiling 
 water than the corresponding racemate, and from this solution 
 the salt crystallizes in needles with three molecules of water 
 of crystallization, the racemate of lime under these circum- 
 stances crystallizing with four molecules of water. Moreover, 
 the acid made from dibromosuccinic acid cannot be split into 
 the two components of racemic acid. Monobromomalate 
 of soda, when boiled with excess of lime-water, also yields 
 tartaric acid. This monobromomalic acid has not yet, how- 
 ever, been obtained from malic acid. 
 
 Dextro-Tartaric Acid (ordinary Tartaric Acid). 
 Tartaric acid exists in the juice of the fruit of many plants, 
 as tamarinds, mountain ash, mulberries, pine-apples, and others. 
 
i66 DEXTRO-TARTARIC ACID. [chap. 
 
 The largest quantities, however, are found in the juice of the 
 grape. It is usually prepared from argol or crude cream of 
 tartar, which is deposited in reddish crusts in the interior of 
 the casks in which the must has fermented or rested after 
 fermentation. This crude salt is decomposed by boiling with 
 chalk, when a precipitate of tartrate of calcium is produced, 
 whilst neutral tartrate of potassium remains in solution ; this 
 latter is mixed with chloride of calcium, when a further 
 quantity of tartrate of calcium is thrown down. Both these 
 portions of tartrate of calcium are decomposed by diluted 
 oil of vitriol, the resulting insoluble sulphate of calcium 
 (gypsum) is removed by filtration or decantation, and the 
 clear solution of tartaric acid thus obtained is evaporated 
 to crystallization. 
 
 Tartaric acid crystallizes in large colourless, transparent 
 prisms, belonging to the oblique prismatic system ; the crystals 
 generally are unsymmetrical by the occurrence of hemihedral 
 faces ; they contain no water of crystallization. When gently 
 heated, the crystals become electrical, the two ends showing 
 opposite electricity ; during the subsequent cooling of the 
 crystal this polarity is reversed. The crystals have a specific 
 gravity of 175, and a very sour, but not disagreeable, taste; 
 they dissolve readily in water, requiring only a little more 
 than one-half their weight of cold, and still less of boiling, 
 water for solution ; the acid is also soluble in alcohol, but 
 insoluble in ether. This solution turns the plane of polariza- 
 tion to the right. The amount of rotation is not proportional 
 to the quantity of acid in solution ; it is relatively greater in 
 dilute solutions, and becomes less so as the concentration of 
 the solution increases. 
 
 : As before stated, tartaric acid is a dibasic acid, forming two 
 classes of salts and ethers ; the salts also turn the plane of 
 polarization to the right ; their crystals nearly always show 
 hemihedral faces. The acid potassium salt (K H, C4 H4 Os) 
 occurs in the juice of grapes and in wine from which it is 
 thrown down on the addition of alcohol. All the salts are 
 readily produced by the partial or complete neutralization 
 of the acid, or by the precipitation of a soluble salt by 
 
VI-] LEVO-TARTARIC ACID. 167 
 
 means of a salt of a metal forming with tartaric acid an 
 insoluble compound. 
 
 The acid tartaric ether (C.H^, H, QH.OJ also occurs in 
 wine, being generally formed in any mixture containing 
 alcohol and tartaric acid— very slowly in the cold, more 
 rapidly on hearing. If absolute alcohol and dry crystallized 
 tartaric acid are heated together, or are allowed to stand 
 for a sufficient length of rime, and the water formed during 
 the reaction is removed, all the tartaric acid may be con- 
 verted into the ether; but if water be present, a certain 
 amount of acid remains in the free state, the proportion of 
 such being the greater the more water is present. 
 
 Leva- Tartaric A eid. 
 
 This acid is not found in wine in the free state, but only 
 in combination with ordinary tartaric acid, forming racemic 
 acid. It can be obtained from racemic acid in a manner to 
 be described under the head of that acid. Nearly all its 
 chemical characters are identical with those of ordinary tar- 
 taric acid, but its optical properties are different ; for, whereas 
 the first acid turns the plane of polarized light to the right, the 
 latter turns it, exactly to the same amount, to the left. This 
 optical character is not, however, without influence on some 
 of its physical and chemical properties : thus, although 
 both acids crystallize in the same system, and both show 
 hemihedric faces, these faces occur at opposite sides of the 
 crystal ; one crystal being, so to speak, the reflection of the 
 other, they are incongruent-hemihedrieal. 
 
 Ordinary tartaric acid, which turns polarized light to the 
 right, shows these hemihedral faces on the right side of the 
 crystal, whilst the crystals of levo-tartaric acid have them on 
 the left side. Both acids, again, although identical in chemical 
 characters in relation to substances not having the power 
 of circular polarization, show considerable difference when 
 brought in contact with substances having this power. Thus, 
 ordinary bitartrate of ammonium readily combines with the 
 acid ammonium salt of optically active malic acid, forming 
 an easily crystallizable double salt ; levo-tartaric acid, on 
 
1 68 RACEMIC ACID. [chap. 
 
 the other hand, cannot be made to form such a salt. Again, 
 ordinary tartaric acid unites readily with asparagin ; levo- 
 tartaric acid does not. This difference of the two acids may 
 be used, as we shall see, in separating racemic acid into its 
 two constituents. 
 
 Racemic Acid {Para-Tartaric Acid). 
 
 This acid is found in small quantities in nearly all crude 
 tartar, but more particularly in tartar from Italy. The mother 
 liquor obtained in the refining of crude tartar is precipitated 
 by chalk ; the insoluble salt thrown down is decomposed 
 with sulphuric acid, and the liberated acid allowed to crystal- 
 lize. These crystals are then left exposed to the air, when 
 the crystals of racemic acid effloresce, and are easily sepa- 
 rated from the transparent crystals of tartaric acid. 
 
 Racemic acid crystallizes in doubly oblique rhombic prisms 
 (triklinometric), containing a molecule of water of crystallization 
 (C^HPj + HjO). The crystals show no hemiihedric faces : 
 they effloresce slowly in dry air at ordinary temperature, 
 rapidly at a temperature of ioo°. It is not so soluble in water 
 as tartaric acid : J part of acid requires 57 parts of water at 
 15": it is also less soluble in alcohol, i part requiring 48. 
 The solution has no action on polarized light. It gives a pre- 
 cipitate with chloride of calcium^ or even gypsum, and thus 
 differs from tartaric acid, which yields a precipitate with the 
 former only after careful neutralization, and is not precipitated 
 at all by the latter reagent. 
 
 The precipitate produced by a calcium salt in a salt of 
 tartaric acid is soluble in acetic acid; the corresponding 
 racemate is insoluble. The salts of racemic acid, like the 
 acid itself, show no Ijemihedric faces ; in other respects they 
 closely resemble the tartrates. Very remarkable is the 
 behaviour of the racemate of sodium and ammonium. If 
 this salt is allowed to crystallize, it yields two kinds of crys- 
 tals, all being hemihedric, but some having the hemihedral 
 faces to the right, others to the left. When these crystals 
 are separated, each variety can be recrystallized without alter- 
 ing its form. The crystals, having the hemihedral faces on 
 
VI-] MALIC ACID. 169 
 
 the right, yield an acid identical with ordinary tartaric acid, 
 turning the plane of polarized light to the right ; the crystals 
 having the hemihedral faces on the left yield an acid turning 
 the plane to the left, but having the same composition and 
 nearly the same chemical properties, as the right-turning 
 tartaric acid, and are leyo-tartaric acid. In a super- 
 saturated solutiou of Itie racemate of potassium, the intro- 
 duction of a crystal of ordinary tartrate of potassium induces 
 the crystallization of this latter salt, whilst a crystal of the 
 levo-tartrate produces a crystallization of the levo-tartrate 
 solely. If concentrated solutions of ordinary and levo-tar- 
 taric acid are naixed, a considerable rise in temperature is 
 observed, and crystallized raeemic acid is produced. 
 
 MALIC ACID.. 
 
 Malic acid (QHbOs) is one of the most widely diffused 
 organic acids ; it is found either free or in combination 
 with potassium, calcium, magnesium, or organic bases, in very 
 many plants, particularly in fruit, as apples, cherries, plums, 
 and grapes, the berries of the mountain ash, &c. ; the latter, 
 containing it in the greatest quantity, are generally employed 
 for its preparation. The juice pressed from the unripe berries is 
 heated to boiling and strained ; the clear juice is then nearly 
 neutralized with milk of lime, and again boiled for some time. 
 Neutral malate of lime is precipitated, which is collected, 
 washed, and dissolved in warm dilute nitric acid (one part of 
 acid to ten of water). On cooling, large crystals of acid malate 
 of lime are deposited. These crystals may be purified by re- 
 peated crystallization, and then dissolved in hot water and 
 precipitated with acetate of lead. The lead salt thus obtained 
 may then be decomposed, either by sulphuretted hydrogen, 
 or by boiling with dilute sulphuric acid, and the aqueous 
 solution of malic acid produced evaporated to crystallization. 
 According to another mode of preparation the clarified juice 
 is precipitated by acetate of lead, the precipitate collected 
 and washed with cold water ; it is then boiled with water and 
 again filtered ; on cooling, the solution deposits crystals of 
 malate of lead, which are decomposed as before. Malfc acid 
 
I/O 
 
 MALIC ACID. [chap. 
 
 crystallizes with difficulty, generally, in masses consisting of 
 needles radiating from a centre. The crystals are very deli- 
 quescent, and are soluble in water and alcohol, but very 
 slightly in ether. Solutions of malic acid turn the plane of 
 polarized light to the left ; solutions of its salts, however, turn 
 it sometimes to the right, sometimes to the left. 
 
 Malic acid has been obtained from asparagin, or aspartic 
 acid, by the action of nitrous acid, under evolution of nitrogen 
 and water. 
 
 Asparagin. Malic acid. 
 
 C, Hg N^ G3 + N2 O3 = C4 He O5 + 2 N2 + H.,.0. 
 
 Aspartic. 9cid. Malic acid. 
 
 2 C4 H,, NO4 + N., O3 = 2 C4 H5 O5 + 2 Nj + H2 O. 
 
 If asparagin, or the optically active variety of aspartic acid, 
 be taken for this reaction, the resulting malic acid is optically 
 active ; but if optically iriactive aspartic acid is employed, the 
 malic acid obtained is also optically inactive. Malic acid has 
 also been prepared artificially by the action of oxyde of silver 
 on a hot solution of monobromosuccinic acid ; a silver salt of 
 this acid is first formed, which at a boiling temperature, 
 and in presence of an excess of silver oxyde, is rapidly 
 decomposed into bromide of silver and majic acid. 
 
 Monobromosuccinate of silver. Malate of silver. 
 
 2 {Ag2 C4 H3 Br O4) + Ag2 O + H.^ O = 2 (Ag^ C4 Hj O5) + 2 A^ Br. 
 
 From malate of silver the acid itself is obtained by pre- 
 cipitating the silver with sulphuretted hydrogen. The acid 
 thus obtained seems to be optically inactive. 
 
 The optically inactive variety of malic acid has not yet 
 been found in vegetables. 
 
 Malic acid is a dibasic acid, and gives rise, therefore, to two 
 classes of salts and ethers, acid and neutral. The neutral 
 and acid potash salts are soluble in water, alcohol, and alco- 
 hol-ether, and hence afford a means of separating this acid 
 from tartaric acid. The lime salt is also soluble in water ; 
 it is, however, in great part precipitated from the aqueous 
 solution by long boiling. It is thrown down immediately on 
 addition of alcohol. As regards formation of ethers the acid 
 behaves like tartaric acid. 
 
VI.] SUCCINIC ACID. 
 
 171 
 
 SUCCINIC ACID. 
 
 Succinic acid (C4 Hg O4) is found in amber, some lignites, 
 in the turpentine from several varieties of pines, in several 
 other plants, and in some parts of the animal organism. 
 
 It is a frequent product of the oxydation of organic sub- 
 stances, more particularly the fats and fatty acids. It is also 
 produced during the fermentation of various substances, as 
 asparagin, malic acid, sugar, &c., and is therefore always 
 found in small quantity in wines. Grape sugar, during fer- 
 mentation, yields about O'S per cent, of its weight of succinic 
 acid. Malic and tartaric acids may also be directly reduced 
 to succinic acid by the action of hydriodic acid. 
 
 Malic acid. Succinic acid. 
 
 C4 Hg O5 + 2 H I = H^ O + I2 + C4 Hg O4. 
 
 Succinic acid has been prepared artificially by the following 
 synthetical processes. An alcoholic solution of ethylenic 
 cyanide is boiled for some time with hydrate of potassa, 
 whereby ammonia is evolved and succinate ,of potassium 
 produced : 
 
 Ethylenic cyanide. Succinate of potassium. 
 
 Cj H4 2 C N + 2 K H O + 2 Hj O = 2 N H3 + C4 H4 K^ O4. 
 
 Or cyanopropionic acid is treated with potash, ammonia is 
 evolved, and succinate formed : 
 
 C3 H5 (C N) O2 + K H O = C4 H4 K2 O4 + N H3. 
 
 Succinic acid is usually prepared either by the distillation 
 of amber or the fermentation of malate of lime. 
 
 A glass retort is filled to about | with pieces of amber 
 and gradually heated in a sand-bath. The products which 
 distil over are collected in a receiver. The process is ended 
 when the melted mass no longer froths up, and does not 
 disengage any more white fumes. The distillate consists of 
 succinic acid, which is partly solid, partly dissolved in the 
 water formed during the dry distillation, and a yellow, 
 strongly-smelling oil. The whole distillate is heated to boil- 
 ing, filtered whilst hot to eliminate the oil, and allowed to 
 crystallize. This impure acid is boiled for half an hour 
 with four times its weight of ordinary nitric acid, crystallized 
 
172 SUCCINIC ACID [chap. 
 
 from the acid liquid under constant stirring, collected, washed 
 with water and once more crystallized, when it is obtained 
 perfectly pure. 
 
 One part of malate of lime, three parts of water, and one- 
 twelfth part of cheese are allowed to ferment at a temperature 
 varying between 15° and 30°, during from eight to fourteen 
 days. Carbonic acid is evolved, and a granular double salt of 
 carbonate and succinate of calcium is produced. This double 
 salt is decomposed with dilute sulphuric acid ; the acid is first 
 admixed in measured quantities, as long as any effervescence 
 is produced, whereupon the same quantity as that which has 
 already been used is yet added, the whole boiled for some 
 time, filtered and evaporated to crystallization, the acid first 
 obtained being purified by repeated crystallizations. Three 
 pounds of malate of lime yield one pound of pure succinic 
 acid. During this fermentation much acetic acid is also 
 formed ; the changes effected may be represented by the fol- 
 lowing equations ■.^— 
 
 Malic acid. Succinic acid. Acetic acid. 
 
 3 C4 He O5 = 2 Cj Hg O4 + Cj Hj O2 + 2 C O2 + H^ O. 
 
 Succinic acid crystallizes in large colourless rhombic or six- 
 sided plates or prisms, belonging to the monoklinometric sys- 
 tem. It is soluble in 5 parts of water at 16°, and in 2 '2 parts 
 of boiling water ; somewhat less soluble in alcohol, and but 
 slightly soluble in ether. When heated, it begiffis to sublime 
 slowly at 140°, melts at 180°, and boils at 235", the greater 
 part splitting up into water and succinic anhydride. It is 
 one of the most stable of organic acids ; it can be heated 
 with nitric, sulphuric, aqueous solution of chromic acid and 
 with hydrochloric acid and chlorate of potassium, without 
 undergoing alteration. When heated with bromine and water 
 in sealed tubes, mono- and dibromo-succinic acid are produced 
 according to the proportion of water employed. 
 
 Succinic acid is dibasic, and generally forms two classes of 
 salts and ethers ; with some bases, as for example potash, it 
 forms, however, three kinds of salts : 
 
 Neutral. Acid. Super acid 
 
 C4 H, K, O, C4 H5 K O4 C4 H, K O4 + C4 H„ O4 
 
VI.] AND ITS RELA TIONS. 
 
 173 
 
 The salts with the alkalies or ammonium are soluble ; those 
 with the alkaline earths insoluble, or difficultly soluble in 
 water. Solutions of a neutral succinate of an alkali give, with 
 a neutral solution of a ferric salt, a gelatinous red-brown 
 precipitate of basic succinate of iron. Salts of manganese are 
 not thus precipitated, and may, by means of this immunity, 
 be separated from the iron. 
 
 The presence of succinic acid in wine may be demonstrated 
 in the following manner : — Half a litre of wine is decolorized 
 by shaking it with 40 grms. of animal charcoal, filtered, and 
 the charcoal well washed with cold water. Filtrate and wash- 
 water are then carefully evaporated nearly to dryness on a 
 water-bath, and the drying is finished under the air-pump. 
 The dry residue is then repeatedly extracted with a mixture 
 of one part of alcohol of from 90 to 92 per cent, strength, and 
 two and a half parts of rectified ether. From this extract the 
 ether is distilled off in a water-bath, and the evaporation com- 
 pleted in an open dish ; the residue thus obtained is neutral- 
 ized exactly with clear lime-water, and again carefully evapo- 
 rated to drynes.", also on a water-bath : from this residue the 
 glycerine is extracted with ether-alcohol. The remainder is 
 chiefly succinate of calcium, which may further be purified 
 from some extractive matter and a non-crystallizable limesalt 
 by digesting it for twenty-four hours with spirit of 80 per cent. 
 The residue is then nearly pure succinate of calcium ; it may 
 be collected on a weighed filter, dried and weighed. One litre 
 of wine contains from i to 15 grms. succinic acid. 
 
 RELATIONS OF THE FOREGOING ACIDS TO EACH OTHER. 
 
 The three acids, succinic, malic, and tartaric, are easily con- 
 vertible into each other. Thus, tartaric acid, when heated 
 with hydriodic acid, is reduced first to malic, and then to 
 succinic acid ; succinic acid, on the other hand, can be readily 
 oxydized to malic and tartaric acids. The formula; of the 
 three acids — 
 
 C^ Hg O4, succinic, C4 Hg O5, malic, C4 H,. O^, tartaric— 
 
 show that the second and third acid have each one atom of 
 oxygen more than the preceding. These relations arc, 
 
174 ACETIC ACID. [chap. 
 
 perhaps, expressed most clearly in the formula of Kolbe. He 
 regards succinic acid as a double atom of carbonic acid, in 
 which one atom of oxygen (one of the two outside the radicle 
 carbonyl) is replaced by ethylen, thus : 
 
 Carbonic acid. Succinic acid. 
 
 O^lcO o]CO|c,H, + H,0. 
 
 If, then, we replace one or two atom-s of the hydrogen in the 
 ethylen by hydroxyl, we obtain malic and tartaric acid 
 respectively. 
 
 Malic acid. Tartaric acid. 
 
 A replacement of the same hydrogen by bromine, gives us 
 mono- or dibromo-succinic acid. 
 
 :C O |C H, _^ jj OandO ! ^ °! '^JJ^ + H„ O. 
 
 COJ Br "^ r.2W..uuw j(,Qj 3^.^ 
 
 Although all three acids are dibasic, that is, contain two 
 atoms of hydrogen replaceable by basic radicles, and forming, 
 therefore, two classes of salts, malic acid contains a third 
 atom of hydrogen, and tartaric acid a third and fourth atom 
 which can be replaced by acid ra-dicles, and under some cir- 
 cu'mstances also by basic radicles. The compounds however 
 in which these hydrogen atoms are thus replaced differ 
 materially from ordinary salts, and this hydrogen has ac- 
 cordingly been distinguished as alcoholic hydrogen. Malic 
 acid may thuS' appear as a dibasic acid and a monodynamic 
 alcohol, whilst tartaric acid is a dibasic acid and a didynamic 
 alcohol. 
 
 ACETIC ACID. 
 
 Acetic acrd (C2 H4 O2) is found in small quantity, either free 
 or in combination, in the juices of some plants and animals ; it 
 is formed by a variety of processes of oxydation or destructive 
 distillation of organic substances, and has also been produced 
 by several synthetical methods. The chief sources of its 
 production are the oxydation of ordinary alcohol or the 
 dtestructive distillation of wood'. Ordinary or ethylic alcohol 
 may be oxydized into acetic acid in several ways; most 
 
VI.] ACETIC ACID. 175 
 
 conveniently by heating it with bichromate of potash and 
 sulphuric acid, or by bringing it in contact with substances 
 having the power of condensing oxygen on their surfaces, 
 which oxygen is transferred to the alcohol without these 
 substances suffering any change themselves, as for example 
 v/ood-shavings or platinum black. This process of oxydation 
 maybe assumed to take place in two periods: in the first, 
 two atoms of hydrogen are removed from the alcohol, so 
 that water and aldehyde are produced ; in the second, this 
 aldehyde absorbing one atom of oxygen is converted into 
 acetic acid. 
 
 Alcohols Aldehyde. 
 
 C2 Hg O + O = Cj H4 O + H., O. 
 
 Aldehyde. Acetic acid. 
 
 Cs H4 O + O = Cj H4 O2. 
 
 If the oxydation takes place energetically, and if plenty of 
 oxygen is present, the intermediate product, aldehyde, is either 
 not formed at all or only in small quantity ; but if the oxyda- 
 tion takes place less energetically, or if the supply of oxygen 
 is limited, aldehyde is produced in large quantity. The most 
 important method of oxydizing alcohol on a large scale is 
 the conversion of alcoholic liquids into dilute acetic acid or 
 vinegar by the so-called acetous fermentation. P.ure alcohol 
 or pure mixtures of alcohol and water do not become 
 oxydized by simple exposure to air. If, however, a diluted 
 spirit, of about 10 per cent, strength, contains albuminous 
 matter, and in addition is mixed with some already formed 
 vinegar, acetous fermentation is rapidly set up. Under 
 these circumstances a small fungus {JMycoderma aceti) begins to 
 grow on the surface of the liquid, and by its action the alcohol 
 is converted into acetic acid. In what manner the plant acts is 
 not known, but somehow it transfers the oxygen of the atmo- 
 sphere to the alcohol. As the presence of oxygen is necessary 
 for this action, the plant acts only on the surface of the liquid ; 
 and in order to convert a large quantity of alcohol into 
 acetic acid, the liquid should offer a large surface to the air. 
 The mycoderma, moreover, cannot live in strong alcohol, and 
 it can therefore convert only weak spirit, not much exceeding 
 10 per cent, alcoholic strength, into acetic acid. The tempera- 
 
176 ACETIC ACID. . [chap. 
 
 ture of the alcoholic fluid to be converted into vinegar should 
 not fall below 22° or rise above 37" C. 
 
 For operations on a large scale the above conditions are 
 secured by filling large vats provided with false perforated 
 bottoms with flat pieces of wicker-work or wood -shavings. 
 A vat thus newly filled is infused for several days with 
 partially finished vinegar. The weak alcoholic liquid to be 
 converted into vinegar (wine or beer already partially spoiled, 
 or simply fermented smallwort) is then poured upon the top 
 of the wicker-work, care being taken to distribute it evenly 
 over the surface. It trickles down over the wicker and comes 
 in contact with the air passing upwards through the vat, and 
 during its passage down is converted into vinegar : these vats 
 are placed in rooms kept at the temperature above given. A 
 vat, when in active work, generates a considerable amount of 
 heat, and its temperature is always higher than the temperature 
 of the place in which it stands : this higher internal tempera- 
 ture considerably facilitates the passage of a current of air 
 through the vat. When in fair working, the vat produces 
 almost nothing but acetic acid ; if, however, either the tempera- 
 ture is not the right one, or the supply of air insufficient, 
 aldehyde is formed in greater or lesser quantity. The weak 
 vinegar thus at first obtained may be made stronger by a 
 further addition of alcohol, and a second passage through the 
 vats ; it may in this manner be brought up to a strength of 12 
 or 15 per cent, of acetic acid. If the alcoholic liquid employed 
 in such a vat is free from albuminous matters, it is converted 
 into vinegar by simple oxydation, without the intervention of 
 the mycoderma, and even in the course of twenty years of 
 constant use, no fungus is deposited on the wood-shavings 
 in the vat. If, however, the alcoholic solution contains albu- 
 minous matter, the Mycoderma aceti makes its appearance. 
 
 Must, after partial fermentation, contains many of the 
 elements favourable to the production of vinegar. Where 
 the must ferments in open vats it exposes a large surface to 
 the atmosphere, which is further increased by the thick froth 
 covering it, or, as is often the case with red wines, by the skins 
 and stalks of the grapes which float on the top. In most 
 
VI.] ACETOUS CHANGE. 
 
 177 
 
 wine-producing countries, however, the temperature prevailing- 
 during the time of fermentation is not high enough to favour 
 acetous fermentation ; and, moreover, during the greater part 
 of such fermentation the carbonic acid constantly produced 
 and escaping at the surface prevents the free access of air. 
 In all moderately warm countries it requires, therefore, but 
 slight attention to prevent an excessive production of acetic 
 acid, and in the wines produced there the quantity usually 
 ranges from between O'S to rs per 1,000. In warm countries 
 and seasons, however, and in all cases where the skins are 
 allowed to ferment with the must, great care is requisite 
 to prevent the formation of vinegar, and frequently the fer- 
 mentation of the must has to be stopped by the addition of 
 alcohol, in order to limit as much as possible the time during 
 which the wine has to be kept in open casks or vats. If 
 the fermentation of the must has been complete, and if 
 originally there has been a proper proportion between the 
 quantity of sugar and the albuminous matter, the latter will 
 be almost completely removed ; and such wine is little, if at 
 all, liable to turn sour. As long, however, as. an appreciable 
 quantity of albuminous matter is left, the wine is liable to 
 change. It has been stated above that the addition of acetic 
 acid or vinegar to wine considerably favours the growth of 
 the mycoderma, and, as a parallel to this, it is found that the 
 rapidity with which wine is converted into vinegar increases 
 to a certain extent with the increasing amount of acetic acid. 
 If once, therefore, the quantity of acetic acid present has 
 reached a certain amount, its further production will go on at 
 a greatly increased rate, and the wine can no longer be kept 
 in vessels to which air has access without turning sour entirely. 
 If, as mentioned above, the oxydation of the alcohol takes 
 place under conditions where there is but a limited supply of 
 oxygen, it often stops short at aldehyde ; the same is some- 
 times the case in wines which have been kept in vessels 
 allowing a very slight access of atmospheric air. We have, 
 for example, found notable traces of aldehyde in one bottle 
 of Sauternes and one of Geisenheimer-Rothenberger ; in both 
 cases the bottle had stood upright, in a moderately warm 
 
 N 
 
178 PREPARATION OF [chap. 
 
 room, for nearly a year, and, although full and corked, air 
 had found its way into the bottle enough to oxydize some 
 of the alcohol into aldehyde. Wine bottles should, therefore, 
 always be laid on their side, so as to keep the cork covered 
 with wine, and thus prevent this diffusion of air through 
 the cork. In several of the Greek wines which we have 
 examined, notable traces of aldehyde, and a very considerable 
 amount of acetic acid, were detected, showing the effects of 
 carelessness at some stage or other of their production. 
 
 The highest amount of acetic acid found in 36 samples 
 of Rhine wine, and other German wines, amounted to 178 
 per thousand, the lowest being only o'36 per thousand ; 
 while in 7 samples of Greek wines the acetic acid varied 
 between r53 and 3"63 per thousand. 
 
 Acetic acid in a pure state may be obtained from vinegar, 
 produced by the acetous fermentation of diluted spirit, in 
 the following manner. The vinegar is first submitted to dis- 
 tillation, which is continued until empyreumatic products 
 begin to come over ; this latter result may be obviated to a 
 considerable extent by putting pieces of charcoal into the still. 
 This distilled acid is then neutralized by an alkali, soda for 
 example, and evaporated to dryness. The resulting acetate 
 of soda is purified by recrystallization, dried, put into a retort, 
 and after the addition of strong sulphuric acid the liberated 
 acetic acid is distilled off. The first portions of distillate 
 generally contain water, and the following portions are 
 contaminated with sulphurous acid and small quantities of 
 sulphate of soda. It is, therefore, advisable to add some 
 dry binoxyde of manganese to the distillate for the purpose 
 of oxydizing the sulphurous acid, and then redistil it. The 
 first third of the distillate is rejected ; the last two-thirds only 
 are collected. This portion is then cooled to the temperature 
 of freezing water, when the greater part of it crystallizes ; 
 the mother liquor is drained off, and the crystals after 
 m-elting are made to crystallize once more. The mother 
 liquor from this second crystallization being removed, the 
 crystals remain solid up to a temperature of 15°. This 
 same solid acetic acid may also be obtained in the following 
 
VI-] ACETIC ACID. 17^ 
 
 manner. Acetate of potash is put into a retort, a slight 
 excess of moderately strong acetic acid added, and, after 
 the introduction of a thermometer, heat is applied. At first 
 a very weak acid passes over, after which the temperature 
 rises rapidly without much liquid distilling over. When the 
 temperature has risen to 200°, the binacetate, which had been 
 formed at the beginning, begins to be decomposed, and from 
 this point up to a temperature of 300° pure acetic acid 
 distils over. 
 
 Very considerable quantities of acetic.acid are also obtained 
 among the products of the dry distillation of wood. From 
 the crude product the acid may be obtained by distillation, 
 neutralization with an alkali, decomposition of the resulting 
 acetate by an acid, &c. 
 
 Acetic acid has also been prepared synthetically by a 
 variety of processes, some of which possess considerable theo- 
 retical interest. Thus by the action of carbonic acid on 
 sodium methyl, sodium acetate is formed : 
 
 Sodium methyl. Acetate of sodium. 
 
 Na C H3 + C O2 = Cj H3 Na Oj. 
 
 By acting with potassa on cyanide of methyl — 
 
 C H3 C N + K H O + H2 O = Cj, H3 K Oj + N H3. 
 
 Lastly, acetic acid has been prepared synthetically even 
 from the elements themselves. Carbon and sulphur unite at 
 a red heat, forming disulphide of carbon (C Sj). By the action 
 of chlorine on this disulphide of carbon, chloride of carbon 
 (C2 CI4) is produced, and this in the presence of water is 
 transformed by chlorine into trichloracetic acid (C2 CI3 H Oj) ; 
 and ultimately this is converted into acetic acid by the action 
 of zinc or sodium amalgam. The same synthesis may be 
 accomplished in a different manner. Hydrogen passed over 
 the intensely ignited carbon points of the electric light com- 
 bines directly with the carbon and forms acetylen (C2 Hj). 
 This acetylen enters into combination with suboxyde of copper, 
 yielding acetylite of copper, from which the acetylen may be 
 liberated again by hydrochloric acid. If this liberation takes 
 place in presence of nascent hydrogen, the acetylen takes up 
 
 N 2 
 
i8o ACETIC ACID. [chap. 
 
 two atoms of hydrogen and produces ethylen (C^ HJ. This 
 ethylen can be converted into alcohol, and the latter into 
 acetic acid. 
 
 Acetic acid is a colourless liquid, of a strongly acid taste 
 and smell ; it can be mixed in every proportion, with water, 
 alcohol, and ether. In moist air it fumes slightly and readily 
 attracts moisture. It boils at a temperature of 1 1 8° C, but 
 evaporates at temperatures considerably below this, and 
 solidifies at a temperature a little below i6°, forming large 
 colourless tabular ciystaLs, which melt between i6° and 17° G. 
 The specific gravity of the solid, glacial, acetic acid is I'lO at 
 8'5° C, that of the liquid ro635 at 16° C. The vapour density 
 is 2 090 when estimated at a temperature of 240° C. or 
 upwards, below this temperature the vapour density is con- 
 siderably higher ; the calculated theoretical density is 2 •076. 
 The pure glacial acetic acid or hydric acetate (C2 H4 O2) 
 does not redden dry litmus paper; the addition of water, how- 
 ever, causes at once a strong reddening. The same acid acts 
 as a strong caustic on the skin, raising on the softer parts, 
 like formic acid, white blisters, which produce painful, slowly 
 healing wounds. When mixed with water, a slight elevation 
 of temperature is produced, contraction taking place at the 
 same time. The addition of water to the crystallizable acid 
 causes, therefore, an increase in the specific gravity, which rises 
 to the maximum of ro735 in the mixture containing 80 parts 
 by weight of acid to 20 parts of water ; on the addition of more 
 water the specific gravity gradually decreases. A mixture of 
 54 parts of acid with 46 parts of water has the same specific 
 gravity as pure acetic acid, and on further dilution the specific 
 gravity continues to decrease. For these reasons it is im- 
 possible to estimate the strength of an aqueous solution of 
 acetic acid by its specific gravity alone. 
 
 Acetic acid is a monobasic acid, forming generally but one 
 class of salts, and always but one class of ethers. With some 
 bases, however, it is capable of forming acid salts, as the bin- 
 acetate of potassium (C2H3K02,C2H4 02) ; whilst with some 
 bases, as lead and copper, it has a great tendency to form basic 
 salts. All the neutral acetates are soluble in water, and mostly 
 
VI.] TJiSTS FOR ACETIC ACID. i8i 
 
 also in alcohol. Most of the salts crystallize readily, and may 
 easily be prepared either by dissolving the metal in the acid, or 
 by neutralizing the acid by means of the oxyde or carbonate 
 of the metal. 
 
 Metallic lead and copper are not dissolved even by boiling 
 acetic acid, but are dissolved readily with formation of basic 
 salt when at the same time exposed to the action of atmo- 
 spheric air. The salts thus formed are strongly poisonous, and 
 any articles of food containing acetic acid, or which readily 
 turn sour, should therefore not be kept for any length of time 
 in copper vessels, though they may be boiled in them without 
 danger if the vessel is perfectly clean and bright. 
 
 Tests for Acetic Acid. 
 
 The presence of acetic acid, or an acetate, may be recog- 
 nized by heating the liquid to be tested with sulphuric acid 
 and alcohol, when acetic ether is produced and easily 
 recognized by its agreeable, refreshing odour; or, without 
 the ad(iition of alcohol, the liberated acetic acid may be 
 recognized by its characteristic smell. Solutions of neutral 
 acetates give a more or less intense blood-red coloration on 
 the addition of perchloride of iron, which is destroyed by the 
 addition of strong mineral acids as well as by boiling, basic 
 acetate of sesquioxide of iron being thrown down in the latter 
 case. If the acetic acid, as is the case in wine, is mixed with 
 a great many other substances, it should be separated from 
 them by distillation, and the tests applied to the distillate, 
 neutrahzed, if necessary, by potash or ammonia. 
 
 Very minute traces of acetic acid may be recognized in the 
 following manner. If the acid is already in combination with 
 an alkali, the test may be applied directly, but if such is not 
 the case the acetic acid must be separated by distillation with 
 somewhat diluted sulphuric acid, the acid distillate neutralized 
 by carbonate of potassium and evaporated to dryness. This 
 dry residue is mixed intimately with a little finely pulverized 
 arsenious acid, introduced into a glass tube and heated. 
 The acetate and arsenious acid react on each other with 
 formation of oxyde of kakodyl, easily recognized by its 
 
1 82 TESTS FOR ACETIC ACID. [chap. 
 
 penetrating offensive odour. A second method for recog- 
 nizing minute quantities of acetic acid consists in boiling the 
 liquid suspected to contain free acetic acid, or the distillate 
 obtained after the addition of sulphuric acid, with freshly- 
 precipitated carbonate of silver, filtering the hot solution and 
 evaporating to a small bulk ; the last drops are then placed 
 on a microscopic slide and allowed to cool, or, if necessary., 
 allowed to evaporate spontaneously still further. The acetate 
 of silver crystallizes in characteristic forms, and cannot easily 
 be confounded with other crystals. It is advisable to com- 
 pare the crystals with those produced by the evaporation of a 
 few drops of a pure acetate of silver solution. 
 
 That the volatile acid of the wine is almost all acetic acid 
 is readily proved by estimating its atomic weight. Several 
 hundred grammes of the wine to be examined are carefully 
 distilled nearly to dryness ; some water is added to the 
 residue and again distilled : these additions of water and 
 distillations are repeated until the distillate coming over is 
 no longer strongly acid. The entire distillate is then neutral- 
 ized with carbonate of soda and evaporated to dryness on a 
 water-bath. The residue is taken up in a little water acidu- 
 lated with diluted sulphuric acid, and any hydrochloric acid 
 it may contain precipitated by the careful addition of a little 
 sulphate of silver solution. The liquid poured off the chloride 
 of silver is then distilled, and the acid liquid neutralized 
 with pure carbonate of baryta. The clear filtered solution 
 is evaporated on a water-bath, the residue dried at a tem- 
 perature of 115", and weighed. It is then decomposed by 
 sulphuric acid, and the resulting sulphate of baryta weighed 
 after ignition. From these data the equivalent of the volatile 
 acid is readily calculated. Pure acetate of baryta should 
 contain 53*54 per cent, baryum. 
 
 Thus the acids from the following wines, when converted 
 into the baryta salt, as above, yielded per cent, baryum : 
 
 From Rauenthaler ( ;f 6 per ohm) , . 53 -3 per cent, baryum. 
 From Rauentlialer (44^. doz. ) . . . 53-6 
 From Hattenheimer {^15 per ohm) . ■ 53'9 
 
 The estimation of the baryum in the salt produced by the 
 
VI.J 
 
 FORMIC AND OTHER FATTY ACIDS. 
 
 ■83 
 
 whole of the volatile acid, is not, however, in itself a per- 
 fectly reliable criterion of the purity of the acetic acid con- 
 tained in it. 
 
 FORMIC, PROPIONIC, 
 
 BUTYRIC, VALERIANIC, CAPROIC, 
 ETC. ACIDS. 
 
 All these acids, together with acetic acid, belong to a series 
 of homologous acids called fatty acids : this series runs parallel 
 with the series of alcohols (ethylic series), from which they 
 may be derived ; each acid differs from its corresponding 
 alcohol by containing two atoms of hydrogen less, and one 
 atom of oxygen more. 
 
 SERIES OF FATTY ACIDS. 
 
 Formic acid . 
 Acetic acid . . 
 Propionic acid . 
 Butyric acid . . 
 Valerianic acid . 
 Caproic acid 
 CEnantliylic acid 
 Caprylic acid 
 Pelargonic acid . 
 Capric acid . . 
 
 Melissic acid 
 
 CH2O2 
 C, H, O2 
 C3 Hj O2 
 C4 Hj O2 
 C5 Hio O2 
 Cg rii2 Og 
 
 ^7^14 O2 
 Cg tlig Og 
 
 C9 rlis Og 
 
 '-'an rlon \Ja 
 
 Fusing-point. 
 
 Boiling-point. 
 
 + 1° 
 
 100° 
 
 + 17° 
 
 117° 
 
 
 141° 
 
 below 20° 
 
 156° 
 
 
 175° 
 
 + 5° 
 
 198° 
 
 
 212° 
 
 + 14° 
 
 236° 
 
 + 18° 
 
 260° 
 
 + 27-2 (30°) 
 
 — 
 
 + 88° 
 
 — 
 
 Between formic and butyric acid the melting-point rises 
 from 4-1 to + 20 ; with caproic acid it falls again to -I- 5°, 
 and between caproic and melissic acid it rises again from 
 -1- 5° to -I- 88°, though not in any regular proportion to the 
 atomic weight. The boiling-point, on the other hand, rises 
 regularly with the atomic weight in such a manner that a 
 difference of C Hj in the composition corresponds very nearly 
 to a difference of 19° in the boiling-point. 
 
 The acids which in the table stand above pelargonic acid 
 are liquid at ordinary temperature, those below it are solid. 
 
 Similar, more or less regular, differences are found amongst 
 all the physical and chemical characters of these acids. Thus, 
 while the first four members of the series are soluble in water 
 
1 84 SERIES OF FATTY ACIDS. [chap. 
 
 in every proportion, one part of valerianic acid requires 30 parts 
 of water for its solution ; and one part of caproic acid no less 
 than 96 parts. The fatty acids of higher atomic weight are 
 insoluble in water. If a mixture of several of these acids is 
 partially neutralized by an alkali, and the mixture distilled, 
 the acids of the highest atomic weight distil over first, 
 those of the lower atomic weight remaining behind in com- 
 bination with the alkali ; or, if to a mixture of the salts 
 of these acids a quantity of sulphuric acid be added, only 
 sufficient to decompose a small quantity of them, and the 
 mixture distilled, the distillate will contain only the highest 
 member or members of the series ; a further addition of 
 sulphuric acid will liberate the next lower member, and so 
 on down to the lowest. In this manner we are able to 
 separate, easily and completely, the higher from the lower 
 members, and obtain any one of the members in a state of 
 purity. 
 
 Thus, suppose we had a mixture of acetic and propionic 
 acid : if we neutralize the whole, and then add just enough 
 sulphuric acid to liberate the greater part, but not the whole 
 of the propionic acid (or what comes to the same thing, add 
 to the original acid mixture rather more alkali than would 
 neutralize the acetic acid), and distil, the distillate will con- 
 tain only propionic acid, whilst a mixture of propionate and 
 acetate remains in the retort. If now a further quantity of 
 sulphuric acid, more than enough to liberate the remaining 
 propionic acid, be added, and the mixture again distilled, this 
 second distillate will consist of a mixture of propionic and 
 acetic acid, a pure acetate remaining behind, from which, of 
 course, the pure acetic acid can be liberated by a third addi- 
 tion of sulphuric acid and distillation. Even from a mixture 
 of unknown composition we may, by a series of such frac- 
 tional distillations, gradually separate the different acids. 
 
 Most of these fatty acids, with the exception of the higher 
 members, occur very frequently among the products of decom- 
 position of more complex organic substances, more parti- 
 cularly among the products of oxydation. Thus formic acid 
 is produced in considerable quantity by the oxydation of 
 
VI.] FORMIC ACID. 1 8s 
 
 Starch, sugar, &c. Among the products of the oxydation of 
 albuminous substances are found formic, acetic, propionic, 
 butyric, valerianic, and caproic acid ; the same acids are also 
 found among the products of oxydation of the higher fatty 
 acids, or their combinations vi^ith glycerine (fats). The gradual 
 oxydation of the albuminous substances of the must and v/ine, 
 or of the fatty substances found in the kernels of the grape, is 
 most probably the chief source of these acids in wine. Some 
 acids of the series are also produced by certain kinds of fer- 
 mentation ; and lastly, some of them, as acetic acid, are 
 produced by the destructive distillation of sugar or woody 
 fibre. Many of the lower members of the series have also 
 been obtained by synthetical processes analogous to those 
 given under the head of Acetic Acid. 
 
 The only acid of the series, besides acetic acid, which has 
 been recognized as certainly present in many wines, is formic 
 acid ; of the others we know only that they are represented in 
 wine by one or more of their number, though we do not know 
 exactly by which. 
 
 Formic acid may readily be recognized in many wines by 
 neutralizing the acid distillate with ammonia, evaporating to 
 dryness, dissolving the residue in a small quantity of water, 
 adding a drop of nitrate of silver, and boiling ; if formic 
 acid be present, a blackish brown precipitate of metallic silver 
 will be produced. Nitrate of suboxyde of mercury is similarly 
 reduced. If, however, the quantity of formic acid present is 
 very small, we must separate it from the greater part of the 
 acetic acid by fractional distillations, as above described. The 
 portion of acid coming over after the last addition of sulphuric 
 acid will contain the formic acid. By the same fractional 
 distillation it is also easy to show the presence of some acid 
 higher in the scale than acetic. For this purpose several litres 
 of wine are distilled from a retort placed in a salt-water 
 bath. To the residue in the retort water is added, and the 
 distillation continued ; this addition of water and distilla- 
 tion being repeated until the distillate is no longer strongly 
 acid. It is, however, scarcely possible to drive over all the 
 volatile acid, because the residue in the retort cannot be 
 
1 86 SERIES OF FATTY ACIDS. [chap. 
 
 heated much above the temperature of boiling water without 
 suffering decomposition. It will, therefore, be found that even 
 after many additions of water and distillations, the distillate is 
 still acid ; we must then rest contented to obtain at lea.st the 
 greater part of the volatile acid, leaving, most probably, some 
 portions of the higher acids in the residue. The whole of the 
 distillate is then neutralized by carbonate of soda, and evapo- 
 rated ; the dry residue is dissolved in a little water, filtered, if 
 necessary, and put into a retort ; an excess of dilute sulphuric 
 acid is then added and the mixture distilled. Should the 
 acidified solution contain hydrochloric acid, it must be removed 
 by the careful addition of sulphate of silver before distillation. 
 The distillation may be conducted over an Argand burner, 
 and can be continued nearly to dryness. It is, nevertheless, 
 advisable to add water to the residue, and again distil ; some 
 pieces of tobacco pipe may also be placed in the retort with 
 advantage. The acid distillate thus obtained is exactly 
 neutralized by a standard solution of soda. The neutralized 
 solution is again put into a tubulated retort, and a certain 
 amount of standard sulphuric acid being added — say \, ^, or 
 ^, of the amount of soda that was required to neutralize the 
 whole of the acid — the mixture is distilled to dryness under the 
 above precautions. Some water is then added to the residue 
 in the retort, a further quantity of sulphuric acid introduced, 
 and the mixture again distilled. This addition of acid and 
 distillation is continued until the whole of the volatile acid 
 has been liberated. All the distillates are, of course, col- 
 lected separately ; they are then neutralized with carbonate 
 of baryum, filtered, evaporated to dryness, and the percentage 
 of baryum contained in each portion is estimated. In this 
 manner it is easy to demonstrate that wines generally con- 
 tain some fatty acid of greater atomic weight than acetic, 
 as well as acetic and formic acid. The smaller the first 
 fraction of acid distilled over, the more probably will it con- 
 sist of the highest member only, and the less will be the 
 percentage of baryum contained in its salt; and if small 
 quantities are distilled off successively until the baryta salt 
 obtained from the distillate corresponds to acetic acid, some 
 
VI.] SEPARATION OF FATTY ACIDS. 187 
 
 estimate of the quantity of the higher acid present may be got. 
 If very large quantities of wine were thus treated, even the.indi- 
 vidual members of the series present might thus be isolated. 
 
 The following experiments made on three Rhine wines will 
 illustrate the process : — 
 
 1. Three litres of Rauenthaler (costing £6 per ohm) were 
 distilled, and treated as above described. Part of the second 
 acid distillate was at once neutralized with carbonate of baryta 
 and the baryum estimated ; the rest of the volatile acid re- 
 quired 20 c. c. normal soda solution for neutralization. This 
 neutral solution was put into a retort, and after the addition 
 of 4 c. c. of normal acid, distilled; a further quantity of 12 c. e. 
 of acid was added and again distilled ; and lastly, 4 c. c. more 
 acid was add^d and the distillation repeated. The three dis- 
 tillates were then neutralized with baryta and the baryum 
 estimated. 
 
 Baryum salt of the mixed acids contained . 53-3 per cent. Ba. 
 
 „ „ 1st fifth „ . 52-8 „ „ 
 
 „ 2d, 3d and 4th fifth „ . 53-8 
 
 last fifth „ . 53-9 
 
 The last distillate was in this case free from formic acid. 
 
 2. Rauenthaler (price 54?. per doz.), treated as above, with 
 this difiference, that instead of \ only \^ of the total amount 
 of sulphuric acid necessary to liberate the whole acid was 
 added at a time. 
 
 Baryum in salts of mixed acids . . . . 53 '^ P^"" cent. 
 
 „ „ first ,J;r 517 ,. 
 
 „ „ next^S 53'6 „ 
 
 „ „ last^ 557 ., 
 
 The last distillate contained distinct traces of formic acid. 
 
 3. Hattenheimer (price ;^i 5 per ohm). Five litres of wine 
 were distilled ; the portion of volatile acid taken for the frac- 
 tional Hberation and distillation required 56 c. c. of normal 
 soda. The first portion of acid added was only i of the 
 total required, before the second distillation If were added, 
 and, lastly, again 2^. 
 
 Baryum in salt of mixed acids .... 53-9 per cent. 
 
 firsts 46-3 „ 
 
 „ next if S4'i „ 
 
 last,^ ... . 56-3 „ 
 
1 88 CENANTHIC ACID. [chap. 
 
 The last distillate contained an appreciable quantity of formic 
 acid. 
 
 In all cases the salt of the first fraction contains less 
 baryum than corresponds to an acetate; the intermediate 
 fractions contain almost exactly the proportion required by 
 a pure acetate ; the last fraction contains, in the two last 
 cases, perceptibly more. 
 
 Formiate of baryum contains . . . . 6o'i8 per cent. Ba. 
 
 Acetate ,, ,,.... S3'54 >> » 
 
 Propionate ,, ,,.... 48-22 „ ,, 
 
 Butyrate ,, ,,.... 43"87 >. .. 
 
 In analysis 3, the baryta salt of the first ^^ contained less 
 baryum than corresponds to the propionate, and must there- 
 fore have contained some acid still higher in the series ; and 
 it is probable that if a still smaller proportion had been dis- 
 tilled off, a yet smaller percentage of baryum would have 
 resulted. As, however, the amount of baryta salt required to 
 estimate the percentage of baryum with sufficient accuracy 
 must not be too small, very large quantities of wine would 
 be required to carry the separation of the volatile acids 
 much further than in the last case. 
 
 CENANTHIC ACID. 
 This acid, the elementary composition of which is expressed 
 by the formula C14 Hj^ O3, has been discovered by Liebig 
 and Pelouze in the ether to which wine owes its characteristic 
 vinous smell. It may be obtained as follows: — QEnanthic 
 ether is boiled with a solution of caustic potash, whereby 
 alcohol is driven off, and oenanthate of potassium is produced. 
 When all the alcohol has been expelled by boiling, the solu- 
 tion is acidified with dilute sulphuric acid, the oil which 
 separates is washed thoroughly with hot water, and finally 
 dried in vacuo over oil of vitriol. The pure concentrated acid 
 thus obtained constitutes a soft, white soHd, which melts a 
 little over 1 3° C. into a tasteless, inodorous oil, soluble in alcohol 
 and ether, but insoluble in water. It has a feeble acid re- 
 action, and is readily soluble in caustic alkalies and alkaline 
 carbonates with formation of the salts of these bases. The 
 acid is dibasic, and forms two kinds of salts, acid and neutral. 
 
VI.] QUANTITY OF ACIDS IN WINE. 189 
 
 CENANTHIC ANHYDRIDE. 
 
 When the acid is submitted to distillation, the greater part 
 of it breaks up into water and anhydride (C^ H^^ O2). At 
 first, a mixture of water and acid passes over; later, the 
 anhydride distils by itself The anhydride begins to boil 
 at 260°, the temperature gradually rises to 293°, and the 
 contents of the retort become slightly brown. It solidifies 
 at a temperature of 31° C. 
 
 ESTIMATION OF THE QUANTITY OF ACIDS IN WINE. 
 
 For the purpose of ordinary analysis it is sufficient to 
 estimate the whole of the volatile acids as acetic acid. The 
 fixed acids may be treated as if they were malic and 
 tartaric only. Their quantitative determination may be 
 accomplished in the following manner. 20 c. c. of wine are 
 measured in a pipette and allowed to flow into a beaker. If the 
 wine is coloured, about 100 c. c. of distilled water are added, 
 to reduce the colour, and a few drops of an alcoholic tinc- 
 ture of logwood.^ To this mixture a decinormal solution of 
 caustic soda is now given from a burette divided into tenths 
 of c. c. until the colour of the mixture changes from yellow, 
 or brown to red. In some wines this change from yellow 
 to red takes place promptly, and can be readily observed ; 
 in others, however, the colour passes gradually through 
 brown, blue, green, &c., and never becomes actually red. 
 In these cases it is impossible accurately to fix the point 
 where sufficient alkali has been added, and then the following 
 method is best adopted. The wine having been diluted and 
 a few drops of logwood tincture added, the decinormal soda 
 solution is poured in until a change in the colour becomes 
 perceptible. At this stage a drop of the liquid in the 
 beaker is taken out with a glass rod, and placed on a 
 
 ' The logwood solution should be made from chips freshly cut from the solid 
 block, and not from the chips of wood as used by dyers. It should not be kept for 
 more than a few weeks, and during that time be placed in the dark, and not too 
 much exposed to the air, otherwise it loses much of its delicacy. 
 
I90 
 
 QUANTITY OF FREE [chap. 
 
 slab of white porcelain by the side of a drop of tincture 
 of logwood, in such a manner that the two drops are just 
 in contact. The two drops will gradually mix ; and as 
 long as the liquid in the beaker is acid, the colour pro- 
 duced will be yellow, brown, or bluish green. As soon, 
 however, as a very slight excess of alkali has been added, 
 a distinct pink colour will result, which is best perceptible in 
 the first few streaks of tincture passing across the drop of 
 wine. This red colour, however, is shown only when a slight 
 excess of alkali has been added ; tincture of logwood being 
 yellow when acid, brown when neutral, and red when alkaline. 
 The excess of alkali necessary to produce the red colour is, 
 however, very slight, provided that, as before recommended, 
 only fresh tincture is employed. With a decinormal solution 
 of soda, for example, O'l c. c. added to 50 c. c. of water is 
 sufficient to produce the above-described reaction when the 
 two drops are placed side by side on a white slab. It is there- 
 fore simply necessary to subtract, from the amount of alkali 
 used, 01 c. c, for every 50 c. c. of diluted wine, to obtain the 
 exact amount of alkali necessary for neutralization. With 
 some care the amount of decinormal soda necessary to neu- 
 tralize the acid of 20 c. c. wine, even if these had to be diluted 
 to 100 or 150 c. c, on account of colour, can be estimated 
 to within O'l c c, equal to 000066 grm. of tartaric acid, or 
 00033 psf cent. 
 
 The amount of alkali thus required represents the total 
 amount of free acid present in the wine ; and as a decinormal 
 solution of soda is employed (a solution containing one-tenth 
 of the equivalent weight of caustic soda expressed in grammes 
 per litre, and consequently neutralizing one-tenth of an 
 equivalent of a monobasic acid expressed in grammes per 
 litre), it is only necessary to multiply the number of c. c. of 
 alkali used by ^ of the equivalent of any acid to obtain 
 the percentage of such acid present, in case 20 c. c. have 
 been taken. Thus the equivalent of acetic acid being 60, and 
 that of tartaric acid, as regards its neutralizing power, 75, we 
 have merely to multiply the number of c. c. of decinormal 
 soda used to neutralize the acid in 20 c. c. wines by O'O^ 
 
VI.] ACIDS TN WINE. 191 
 
 and 0'0375 respectively, to obtain tlie percentage of free acid 
 present, expressed as either acetic or tartaric acid. 
 
 The total amount of volatile acid present is estimated as 
 follows : — 20 c. c. of wine are placed in a small porcelain 
 dish, evaporated on a water-bath, and heated for about 
 half an hour after the evaporation has apparently ceased. 
 The residue, which is generally a thick viscid fluid, is redis- 
 solved in water, and the amount of free acid left is estimated 
 as before described. This free acid represents the total free 
 fixed acid of the wine, and the difference between this and 
 the first determination gives of course the total volatile acids 
 present, as measured by their neutralizing power. 
 
 In case the wine contains much sugar or extractive matter, 
 it may be of advantage to mix some pure powdered quartz 
 with the wine previous to the evaporation, and so stir the 
 mass well towards the end to facilitate the escape of the 
 volatile acid. This will, however, but rarely be found necessary 
 if the wine is evaporated in a shallow dish and upon an open 
 water-bath. Too long heating of the residue should also be 
 avoided, as it gradually loses in acidity, by changes which are 
 not due to any escape of volatile acid. Thus, in two samples of 
 Rhine wine, 20 c. c. of the wine itself required 156 c. c. and 
 I3'8 c. c. d. n. soda. After evaporation and heating for one 
 hour, 1 1 -6 c. c. and lO'O c. c. were respectively required, but 
 the same samples required but 5-1 c. c. and 4'8 c. c. d. n. 
 soda when the evaporated residue had been heated on a 
 water-bath till its weight remained constant, which took about 
 forty-eight hours. The acidity of the residue was still further 
 diminished on drying the residue in an air-bath to 110° till 
 the weight remained constant, when the residue from 20 c. c. 
 of the above two wines required only vz and 19 c. c. soda. 
 The residues which had been heated for forty-eight hours on 
 the water-bath took still twenty-four hours in the air-bath to 
 become constant in weight. 
 
 It is almost impossible accurately to estimate the volatile acid 
 by distillation and estimation of the acidity of the distillate, 
 as even repeated distillation to dryness, and filling up again 
 with water, fail to drive over all the volatile acid. The estima- 
 
192 ESTIMATION OF TARTARIC ACID [chap. 
 
 tion of the fixed acid in the residue left in the retort would be 
 still more unsatisfactory ; for the acidity of the residue, when 
 added to the acidity of the distillate, even after very careful 
 distillation, never quite comes up to the total acidity of the 
 wine, and may even fall very far short of it if the distillation 
 has been continued a little too far. The latter accident is, 
 however, almost unavoidable, if anything like the greater 
 quantity of the volatile acid is to be distilled over. 
 
 In good sound wines the total amount of free acid ranges 
 from 0'3 to 07 per cent, ; wines with more than the latter 
 amount of free acid are neither pleasant nor wholesome. Of 
 the total acidity not more than about O'lS per cent, should be 
 due to volatile acid. 
 
 ESTIMATION OF TARTARIC ACID AND BITARTRATE OF 
 POTASH IN WINE. 
 
 The bitartrate of potash, although slightly soluble in water, 
 is almost absolutely insoluble in strong alcohol or a mixture 
 of alcohol and ether. Upon this insolubility two methods for 
 the estimation of the tartaric acid and bitartrate have been 
 based. The first, proposed by Berthelot, and giving on the 
 whole the most accurate results, is as follows : — 20 c. c. of 
 wine are mixed in a well-stoppered bottle or flask with 100 c. c. 
 of a mixture of equal volumes of alcohol and ether; to another 
 20 c. c. of the wine a quantity of potash (sufficient to neutralize 
 about one-fifth of the free acid of the wine) is added, together 
 with 100 c. c. of the alcohol and ether mixture. Both bottles 
 are then set aside for two or three days in a cool place ; at 
 the end of this time almost all the bitartrate of potash present 
 in both bottles will have been deposited, sometimes in well- 
 defined crystals. These precipitates are then collected on 
 a filter, washed with alcohol-ether, introduced with the 
 paper into a flask or bottle, and dissolved in distilled water, if 
 necessary, with the aid of heat. The free acid present in these 
 solutions is then estimated by a decinormal solution of soda 
 as previously described. 
 
 These precipitates of bitartrate do not, however, represent 
 the total amount of bitartrate present, because a small 
 
VI.] AND BITARTRATE OF POTASH. 
 
 193 
 
 quantitj'^ remains in solution, amounting to about 0-004 grm., 
 equivalent to 0-02 per cent, of bitartrate in the wine. These 
 0004 grm. bitartrate of potash require 0-2i c. c. d. n. soda, 
 which have to be added to the amount found. With this 
 correction, the precipitate from the first 20 c. c. represents 
 the bitartrate present in the wine ; the precipitate from the 
 second 20 c. c. contains the whole amount of the tartaric acid 
 present. We have then simply to multiply the number of 
 c. c. d. n. soda required to neutrahze the precipitates, plus the 
 necessary correction of 02 1 c. c, by o 094 and 0075 respec- 
 tively, to obtain the percentage of bitartrate and of tartaric 
 acid in the wine. 
 
 The second method, which also yields very satisfactory 
 results, has been described by Nessler. The total free acid 
 present is first estimated in 20 a c. of the wine ; 40 c. c. of the 
 wine are then put into a flask and mixed with a sufficient 
 quantity of absolute alcohol to amount to 1 50 c. c. The flask 
 is then set aside for forty-eight hours ; at the end of this time 
 nearly all the bitartrate present will have been precipitated ; 
 75 c. c. of the clear liquor are then taken off with a pipette, 
 put into a beaker, and the free acid still present is estimated 
 as usual. If no bitartrate had been precipitated, the amount 
 of free acid in these 75 c. c. should of course be one-half of the 
 free acid in the 40 c. c. of wine employed, and any deficiency 
 in its acidity, in the case where bitartrate had been deposited, 
 is the measure of the bitartrate present in 20 c. c. of the wine. 
 The total amount of tartaric acid present is estimated thus : 
 to 40 c. c, of wine enough of decinormal alcoholic potash is 
 added exactly to neutralize 10 c. c. of wine, and the whole 
 is then made up to 150 c. c. by absolute alcohol. After the 
 lapse of forty-eight hours 75 c. c. of the clear liquid are 
 taken off and their free acid is estimated ; the amount of the 
 deficiency, taking into consideration the loc. c. d. n. potash 
 added, corresponds to the bitartrate present in the 20 c. c. of 
 wine, or to half the amount of tartaric acid in 20 c. c. of 
 wine. 
 
 A solution containing O'S per cent, of crystallized tartaric 
 acid was made; 20 c. c. of it required I3'3 c. c. d. n. soda; 
 
 O 
 
194 ESTIMATION OF TARTARIC ACID [chap. 
 
 40 c. c. of this were then measured into a flask, ij'j c. c. d. n, 
 alcoholic potash was added, and the whole made up to 150 c. c. ; 
 after two days' standing, 75 c. c. of the clear liquid required, as 
 the mean of several experiments, OTS c. c. d. n. soda, which 
 represents the solubility of the bitartrate in the alcoholic liquid. 
 To 50 c. c. of this same solution i grm. citric acid was 
 added, and then water up to 200 c. c. ; 20 c. c. of this mix- 
 ture required 17 c. c. d. n. soda. 40 c. c. of this solution were 
 now mixed with 8'S c. c. d. n. potash, and then with alcohol up 
 to 1 50 c. c. ; after two days' standing, 75 c. c. of the clear 
 solution required in c. c. d. n. soda,"or subtracting the above- 
 stated correction for the solubility of the bitartrate (o'i5 c. c), 
 1095 c. c, there should have been required 1275. Deducting 
 from this 1095, there remain I'S, which multiplied by two 
 gives 3'6 c. c, the amount of d. n. soda required to neutralize 
 the tartaric acid in 20 c. c. of the mixture. The rest of the 
 17 c. c. required to neutralize 20 c. c. of mixture is, therefore, 
 due to citric acid. We have thus — 
 
 d. n. soda required to neutralize the T, of 20 mixture, 
 
 Calculated ; 3'32 c. c.=0'i24 per cent. 
 
 Found : 3'6 c. u. =o'i35 ,, 
 jd. n. soda required to neutralize the C, 
 
 Calculated : 13 '68 c. c. 
 
 Found : I3'4 c. c. 
 
 showing that even in presence of a considerable excess of 
 citric acid this process gives tolerable results. 
 
 (The tartaric acid solution first employed required 13-3 c. c. 
 d.n. soda per 20 c. c. solution; 50 c. c. of this were diluted up 
 to 200 c. c, and if no citric acid had been added 20 c. c. would 
 HOW require only 3-32 c. c. d. n. soda; enough citric acid had, 
 however, been added to bring the strength up to 17 c. c. d. n. 
 soda, of which 3-32 c. c. being due to tartaric acid, 13-68 c. c. 
 must have been due to citric acid.) 
 
 Both methods give rather accurate results, if the amount 
 of tartaric acid present does not fell short of 0-05 per cent. ; 
 below this amount the results are inaccurate, inasmuch as the 
 acidity of either the precipitate, or the 50 c. c. of alcoholic 
 mixture, or of the wine itself, cannot be estimated to within 
 less than O'l c. c. d. n. soda. 
 
VI.] AND BITARTRATE OF POTASH. 195 
 
 In Berthelot's method, however, the precipitate bitartrate 
 is collected and its acidity directly estimated, and this can be 
 done, as above stated, to within o'l c. c, whilst in Nessler's pro- 
 cess the acidity of the precipitate is found from the difference 
 in the acidity of the wine before and after the addition of 
 alcohol ; it is thus liable, even with the greatest care, to an 
 error of 0"2 c. c. : if, for example, the acidity of the wine has 
 been estimated o"i c. c. too high, whilst, after the addition of 
 the alcohol, it has been estimated o'l c. c. too low. 
 
 Both Berthelot and Nessler have, in their estimation, used 
 half the quantities of wine only which are here recommended ; 
 we have found that the accuracy obtainable by working with 
 the quantities proposed by these authors is not sufficient, 
 except in the case of wines tolerably rich in tartaric acid. 
 
 If the wine contains less bitartrate than corresponds to the 
 solubility of this salt in the quantity of ether alcohol or alcohol 
 employed, no tartaric acid at all will be found by these pro- 
 cesses. This quantity is, however, only about 002 per cent. 
 If it is, nevertheless, desired to estimate this small amount, 
 or, if the presence or absence of any tartaric acid in a wine 
 is to be demonstrated, the following plan may be adopted. 
 A quantity of wine, say 100 c. c, is precipitated by a small 
 excess of acetate of lead ; the precipitate is collected, washed, 
 suspended in water, and decomposed by a current of sulphur- 
 retted hydrogen. The excess of Hg S is then driven off by 
 boiling, and the sulphide of lead_ removed by filtration. The 
 clear solution thus obtained is evaporated to a small bulk, 
 about one-quarter of its acid neutralized by potash, and a con- 
 siderable excess of ether-alcohol mixed with it. After the 
 lapse of forty-eight hours, the precipitate, if any be produced, 
 may be examined as above described. Or, 100 c. c. of wine 
 are precipitated by lime-water ; the precipitate is washed and 
 boiled with carbonate of potash. The carbonate of lime 
 formed being removed by filtration, the alkaline filtrate is 
 acidulated by acetic acid, and also mixed with a considerable 
 excess of ether-alcohol or absolute alcohol. Any precipitate 
 thereby produced must then be examined for tartaric acid. 
 
 In the majority of cases all the tartaric acid of the wine 
 
 O 2 
 
196 ESTIMATION OF TARTARIC [CHAP. 
 
 is present as bitartrate ; that is to say, there is a sufficient 
 amount of potash present to enable the whole of the tartaric 
 acid to be precipitated in this form on the addition of ether- 
 alcohol ; the wines, in fact, frequently correspond to a solution 
 of bitartrate, saturated at the lowest temperature to which 
 the wine may have been exposed for a certain length of 
 time. 
 
 As a general rule, all pure natural wine contains more or 
 less of tartaric acid, and the quantity is probably the higher 
 the riper the grapes from which it is produced. There is 
 not, however, any apparent connection between the amount 
 of tartaric acid present, and the quality of the wine. On 
 the other hand, strongly fortified wines contain little or no 
 tartaric acid, and this acid is almost entirely absent from all 
 such wines during the production of which plaster of Paris 
 has been employed. 
 
 In looking over the tables giving the results of our nume- 
 rous wine-analyses the reader will see that in the great 
 majority of cases, if not in all, the amount of tartaric acid 
 corresponds to only a fraction of the total free fixed acid of 
 the wine, the rest of which is, according to our researches, 
 made up mostly of malic acid. Indeed, a very small error 
 only will be committed if all the free fixed acidity not due to 
 tartaric acid is put down to malic. 
 
 It must, however, be borne in mind that a part of the total 
 amount of tartaric acid found is neutralized by potash, and 
 is thus not included in the alkalimetric estimation of the total 
 fixed acidity ; and, on the other hand, that even the direct 
 estimation of the bitartrate of the wine, by one of the above 
 methods, does not give us the exact amount of that acid 
 which in the wine contributes to the acidity. All wines con- 
 tain more or less sulphate and chloride of potassium (found 
 in the ash), and both salts are decomposed by tartaric acid 
 under the above conditions, i.e. addition of ether-alcohol in 
 which the bitartrate is insoluble. As long, however as 
 acids and bases are in solution, by far the greater portion 
 of the alkali is in combination with the sulphuric and hydro- 
 chloric acid. 
 
VI.] AND MALIC ACID. 197 
 
 If, however, there is more alkali present than is capable 
 of combining with the sulphuric and hydrochloric acid, it 
 will be left in the ash as carbonate. The amount of tartaric 
 acid, which can be neutralized by the amount of alkali 
 found as carbonate in the ash being subtracted from the 
 total amount of tartaric acid found, leaves the rest of the 
 tartaric acid present in the wine as free fixed acid ; and 
 this, when subtracted from the total free fixed acid found, 
 leaves the amount of malic acid present, expressed in its 
 equivalent of tartaric acid. In this calculation, however, 
 several acids, as succinic acid and part of the phosphoric 
 acid, &c., present, are left out of consideration, and the 
 amount of malic acid thus found can, therefore, be taken only 
 as an approximation to reality. 
 
 Malic acid may, however, also be obtained in a somewhat 
 more direct manner. A certain quantity of wine (say SO'c. c. 
 or 100 c. c.) is precipitated with a slight excess of lime-water, 
 the precipitate formed filtered off, washed, and the clear 
 filtrate evaporated to about 25 c. c. or 50 c. c, to which 
 is then added a considerable excess of absolute alcohol. 
 The precipitate thereby produced consists chiefly of malate 
 and sulphate of lime; it is collected on a weighed filter, 
 washed, dried at 100°, and weighed. The sulphuric acid 
 must then be estimated in a second quantity, and the 
 amount of sulphate of lime thus shown to be present in 
 the above precipitate being subtracted, the rest represents 
 the malate of lime. 
 
 The other acids in the wine, with the exception of the 
 mineral acids, of which we shall treat when describing the 
 ash of wine, cannot at present be estimated with any degree of 
 exactness. 
 
CHAPTER Vn. 
 
 THE ETHERS IN WINE. 
 
 Aceto-ethylic ether. — Aceto-propylic, butylic, amylic, caproylic, &c. ethers. — ■ 
 Butyro-ethylic, caprylo-ethylic, &c. others. — CEnantho-ethylic ether. — Tartaric 
 ethers. — Berthelot's estimation of the ethers in wine. — New process for the 
 determination of ethers in wine. — General principles. — General description of 
 the process. — Determination of alcohol as acetic acid. — Determination of the 
 fixed ethers. — Modification of the foregoing process. — Controlling experiments 
 with wines. — Controlling experiments with tartaric ether. — Determination 
 of the ethers in a variety of wines. — Results. — Consideration of Berthelot's 
 theory of the limitation of ethers in wine. — Smell, bouquet, and aioma of ivine. 
 
 ACETO-ETHYLIC ETHER. 
 
 If alcohol and acetic acid are mixed and left to stand, 
 aceto-ethylic ether, commonly called acetic ether, — 
 C2 H3 (C2 H5) 0.2 — is gradually formed ; the process is 
 very slow, and is never complete, owing to the simul- 
 taneous formation of water, the presence of which prevents 
 complete etherification. The more diluted the acid and alcohol 
 are, the smaller will be the proportion of acid ultimately con- 
 verted into ether. The formation of the compound ether 
 in this case is much facilitated by the addition of sulphuric 
 acid. The ether may, however, be prepared much more 
 readily by distilling ten parts of anhydrous acetate of soda, 
 eight parts of alcohol of 90 per cent, and fourteen parts of 
 sulphuric acid. The distillation is continued as long as the 
 distillate is not completely miscible with a small quantity of 
 water. The product at first obtained is washed with about 
 its own bulk of water; the ether remaining on the top of 
 the water is taken off, agitated with carbonate of soda, once 
 
CHAP. VII.] ACETO-ETHYLIC, ETC. ETHERS. 199 
 
 more washed with water, and lastly dried over fused chloride 
 of calcium. The dry ether is again distilled, once more dried 
 over chloride of calcium, with which it now generally enters 
 into a crystalline combination, easily decomposed, however, 
 on application of heat. The ether distilled off from this com- 
 pound is finally submitted to fractional distillation ; those 
 portions only which come over at a temperature of 74° C. are 
 pure acetic ether. 
 
 Acetic ether is a colourless, transparent, very mobile liquid, 
 possessing a very agreeable ethereal refreshing smell, and 
 burning taste; it is neutral to test paper. It boils at a tem- 
 perature of 74"3° C, but evaporates rapidly even at the ordi- 
 nary temperature; its specific gravity is 0^9104, and it is 
 misciblewith alcohol and ether in every proportion. One part 
 of ether requires about seven parts of water for its solution. 
 On the other hand, the ether dissolves water, and the solution 
 gradually becomes acid, owing to the decomposition of some of 
 the ether into acetic acid and alcohol. When heated with an 
 alkali, it readily breaks up into an acetate and alcohol, which 
 reaction is used as a means of estimating the amount of com- 
 pound ether present in a solution. 
 
 By far the greater part of the volatile ethers found in wine 
 is acetic ether, and being volatile and possessing a very decided 
 smell, it doubtless contributes much to the general flavour of 
 the wine, although, neither the characteristic wine flavour nor 
 the peculiar bouquet of wines is due to it. In wine the ether 
 is formed by the action of acetic acid on alcohol, perhaps 
 facilitated by the presence of other acids, but kept within 
 certain Hmits by the presence of water. As the formation of 
 a compound ether under these conditions takes place gradually, 
 the amount of it present at a given time is, to a certain extent, 
 a measure of the age of the wine. 
 
 ACETO-PROPYLIC, BUTYLIC, AMYLIC, CAPROYLIC, ETC. 
 ETHERS. 
 
 Just as acetic acid forms acetate of ethyl, or acetic ether, 
 with ordinary (ethylic) alcohol, so it forms compound ethers 
 with the alcohols of the above radicles. These ethers are 
 
2O0 BUTYRO-ETHYLIC, ETC, ETHERS. [CHAP. 
 
 formed and may be prepared by processes analogous to that 
 given under acetic ether. They correspond in their general 
 characters to acetic ether, and are all volatile, their boiling- 
 point rising as the atomic weight of the alcohol from which 
 they are formed increases. They have all an agreeable 
 etherial smell, greatly resembling the smell of fruit, more 
 particularly when much diluted ; thus acetate of amyl has the 
 smell of pears. All these ethers, when heated with an alkali, 
 are decomposed into acetate and the relative alcohols. 
 
 As the alcohols corresponding to all the above-named 
 radicles are found in wine, in minute quantity, some of the 
 above ethers are undoubtedly present, particularly in old wine, 
 and contribute to its flavour and bouquet, 
 
 BUTYRO-ETHYLIC, CAPRYLO-ETHYLIC, CAPRO-ETHYLIC, 
 AND PELARGO-ETHYLIC ETHERS. 
 
 Just as acetic acid forms a series of ethers with the radicles 
 of the alcohol series enumerated in the foregoing, so the other 
 acids of the fatty acid series form each a series of ethers with 
 the same series of alcohol radicles. In wine, we may expect 
 these acids always to combine with the prevailing, namely 
 ethylic, alcohol. The etherification is apparently facilitated by 
 the presence of tartaric acid. Many of these ethers have a 
 very powerful and characteristic odour. • Very frequently this 
 odour is rather disagreeable in the pure ether, but becomes 
 agreeable, and resembles the aroma of fruit or flowers when 
 greatly diluted. Thus butyric ether (C4 H, (C, H5) O^) 
 resembles the smell of pine-apples ; caprylic ether (Cg H15 
 (Cs Hb) O2) has much the same smell ; caproic ether (C^ Hu 
 (C2 Hs) O2) has the smell of melons; and to pelargonic 
 ether (Cg H 1 (Cj Hg) O2) is probably due a portion of the 
 characteristic wine-flavour. 
 
 CENANTHIC ETHER. 
 
 When large quantities of wine are distilled, a small amount 
 of an oily liquid passes over towards the end of the distilla- 
 tion. Forty thousand parts of wine yield about one part of 
 the oil. The same oil may also be obtained from wine yeast. 
 
VII.] TARTARIC ETHER. . 201 
 
 For this purpose the yeast is diluted with its own volume of 
 water, and carefully distilled over an open fire. The first 
 distillate is rectified when, towards the end of the rectification, 
 the oil distils over. This oil is oenanthic ether mixed with a 
 variable proportion of acid. To obtain the pure ether this 
 crude oil is again distilled, and the first quarter coming over 
 is collected separately. This is now shaken, and gently 
 heated with a solution of sodium carbonate. The carbonate 
 removes the free acid, but leaves the ether unaffected. - In the 
 cold the ether and carbonate form a sort of emulsion, from 
 which the ether does not separate even after long standing. 
 However, when the mixture is heated to boiling, the ether 
 readily rises to the top. It is taken off and digested for some 
 time over lumps of chloride of calcium, by which the last 
 traces of moisture and of alcohol are removed. 
 
 The pure ether thus obtained is a colourless, thin, oily 
 liquid, like oil of peppermint, with an overpowering vinous 
 smell and a sharp, disagreeable taste. It has a specific 
 gravity of 0'862, a vapour density of lO'SoS, and boils be- 
 tween 225 — 230° C. Its elementary composition is Cja Hjg O3 
 = Ci4 H25 O" 2 C2 Hj. It is very soluble in ether, alcohol, 
 or even very diluted spirit, but almost insoluble in water. 
 The fixed caustic alkalies readily decompose it into alcohol 
 and oenanthic acid ; the alkaline carbonates, and aqueous 
 ammonia are, however, without action on it 
 
 The characteristic vinous smell which distinguishes all kinds 
 of wine from every other fermented liquid, is due to the 
 presence of this oenanthic ether. The flavour or bouquet, 
 however, by which the wines of different vineyards and vines 
 are distinguishable from each other, is produced by substances 
 of different nature and composition. 
 
 TARTARIC ETHER. 
 
 As a dibasic acid, tartaric acid is capable of forming two 
 varieties of ethers, namely neutral and acid ones. Only the 
 latter kind is met with in wine, or formed by the mere 
 digestion of tartaric acid with alcohol. Tartro-ethylic ether— 
 C4 H5 (C2 Hs) Oe— is a solid, crystallizable, but deliquescent 
 
202 ESTIMA TION OF ETHERS. [chap. 
 
 body, which behaves like an acid, inasmuch as it can combine 
 with an atom of base, and form neutral salts. Its calcium, 
 lead, and silversalt are rather insoluble in an excess of the 
 acid ether. It cannot be distilled without, breaking up into 
 various products. 
 
 By the influence upon each other of the alcohols and 
 acids shown to be present in wine, a considerable number of 
 compound ethers may be produced. For, supposing five 
 acids and five alcohols to be present, they might produce 
 twenty-five compound ethers, some or all of which might 
 be present and contribute their share to the flavour, such 
 flavour altering as one or the other ether predominated. All 
 these ethers occur in wine in extremely minute quantity 
 only, and almost entirely elude ordinary analysis. However, 
 in the manufacture of brandy enormous quantities of wine 
 are distilled and a considerable amount of so-called fousel 
 oil obtained, in which a number of the above-named volatile 
 acids and ethers, as well as several different alcohols, have 
 been detected. In order to completely study the subject, it 
 would be necessary not only to collect these fousel oils, which 
 generally constitute the part distilling over last, but to submit 
 the brandy itself to oft-repeated fractional distillation, so as 
 to obtain the more volatile ethers as well. 
 
 berthelot's estimation of the ethers in wine. 
 
 Berthelot endeavoured to estimate the amount of com- 
 pound ethers in wine by means of a process of volumetrical 
 analysi.s. He estimated the free acid of the wine by a 
 standard solution of baryta, and heated a second portion 
 of the same wine for some time with a known excess of 
 the same baryta water. During the heating, the compound 
 ethers were decomposed into alcohol and acid, which latter 
 neutralized a part of the baryta. After the heating, the 
 amount of baryta left uncombined was determined, whereby 
 the amount which had become neutralized during the boiling 
 was ascertained. The acid so combined had existed as com- 
 pound ether in the wine. 
 
 This process is no doubt very accurate when applied to pure 
 
VII.] DETERMINATION OF ETHERS. 203 
 
 compound ethers or their dilute watery or alcoholic solutions, 
 but when it is applied to wine it loses that accuracy, because 
 this fluid nearly always contains matters which, by heating 
 with alkali, yield acid and neutralize alkali, and yet have 
 not the properties of ethers. The presence of sugar makes 
 the process totally inapplicable. We have therefore found 
 ourselves under the necessity of devising the following new 
 process for the determination of ethers in wine. 
 
 NEW PROCESS FOR THE DETERMINATION OF ETHERS 
 IN WINE. 
 
 General Principles of the Process. 
 
 It is based upon the fact that there are two classes of com- 
 pound ethers present in wine, one class being volatile, and 
 having for its type acetic ether ; the other being fixed, and 
 having tartaric ether as its type. If a wine is carefully 
 distilled, the volatile ether will pass over into the distillate, 
 while the fixed ether will remain with the matter in the retort. 
 
 The ether in the distillate may be estimated as follows : — 
 The distillate is put into a flask and a quantity of decinormal 
 soda solution added. The flask is closed by a caoutchouc 
 stopper, and then heated for some time, not under one hour 
 and not exceeding six hours. After that time the amount of 
 alkali which has been neutralized is ascertained. 
 
 The ether in the residue is decomposed by boiling with an 
 alkali; the alcohol set at liberty is distilled over and estimated. 
 
 Thus the amount of volatile ether is calculated from the 
 equivalent of acid which it yields by decomposition, while the 
 amount of fixed ether is calculated from the equivalent of 
 alcohol which it yields by decomposition. 
 
 General Description of the Process. 
 
 250 c. c. of wine are introduced into a flask, and about 
 200 c. c. are distilled over ; the bulk of the distillate is raised 
 to 250 c. c. by means of water ; in 100 c. c. of this the free 
 acid is determined by a standard decinormal soda solution. 
 In a second hundred c. c. the ether is estimated by decompo- 
 
204 
 
 DETERMINATION OF [chap. 
 
 sition with alkali, and determination of the amount of acid 
 formed. 
 
 Half a litre of the same wine is next evaporated on the 
 water-bath to 50 or 60 c. c. (As the last traces of alcohol 
 are not easily removed from wine by heating in a retort or 
 flask without danger of some slight decomposition being 
 incurred, we prefer to estimate the fixed ethers in a residue 
 obtained by evaporation in an open dish, and not in the residue 
 remaining from the distillation of the volatile ethers.) This 
 residue is put into a flask, rendered alkaline by sodium 
 hydrate, the flask connected with a condenser and slowly 
 heated to decompose all the ether ; ultimately, about three- 
 quarters of its bulk are distilled over. This first distillate, 
 which is generally strongly alkaline' from ammonia, is rendered 
 slightly acid by sulphuric acid, and again distilled, 25 c. c. 
 being now driven over. These now contain all the alcohol 
 which had been present as fixed ether in the half-litre of 
 wine. This quantity may be determined either by estimating 
 the specific gravity of the distillate or by oxydizing the alcohol 
 into acetic acid, in the manner to be described immediately. 
 Howsoever determined, if the amount of alcohol found is 
 divided by 20, we get the percentage of alcohol present as 
 fixed ether in the original wine.^ 
 
 In all our analyses the distillation of alcoholic as well 
 a-s acetic acid fluids was performed from a specially con- 
 trived flask. An extra tube was blown to the side of 
 the neck for connection with the condenser. The main 
 
 1 The alcohol thus obtained is of course only a very small quantity, and even 
 when all concentrated into the 25 c. c. makes very weak spirit. To rfiow that 
 no appreciable- quantity of other substances influencing the specific gravity is 
 present, it is only necessary to estimate the alcohol in such a sample by specific 
 gravity, and by Geisler's instrument, when it will be found that both yield iden- 
 tical results. The latter instrument has been found very convenient for estimating 
 the strength of such weak solutions. It should be carefully graduated for them 
 and its zero-point, or point to which tlie mercury rises in the pressure tube when 
 water only is in the flask, should be determined for each experiment, as of course 
 it varies with the barometer. If a modification of Geisler's instrument could be 
 devised in which the pressure exerted by the vapour were measured by a column 
 of water instead of mercuiy, it might be a very valuable means for the estimation 
 of very small quantities of alcohol.- 
 
VII.] 
 
 ETHERS IN WINE. 
 
 205 
 
 aperture was used for introducing the fluids, so as not to 
 permit them to touch the lateral tube, and closed. The 
 lateral tube was then connected air-tight with the condenser, 
 and this latter air-tight with the receiver. To the latter a 
 valve of glass-tubing, with a little mercury in it, was attached. 
 The air in the apparatus was thus enabled to expand and 
 contract, and yet during the progress of the distillation all 
 evaporation and consequent loss was avoided. We were thus 
 enabled to distil very dilute spirits, containing perhaps less 
 than half a grain of alcohol in 20 oz. of water, four or five 
 times without loss of alcohol. 
 
 Fig. 32, — Apparatus employed for the decomposition of the fixed ethers of wine, 
 and for the distillation of acetic acid in the estimation of fixed ethers. 
 
 Determination of Alcohol as Acetic A-cid. 
 
 In our endeavours to apply the method to a variety of 
 wines, we met with a difficulty arising from the small amount 
 of alcohol obtainable from the ethers in some of them. We 
 therefore, instead of determining such alcohol directly, oxy- 
 dized it to acetic acid, and determined the quantity of this 
 product volumetrically. How accurately small quantities of 
 alcohol can be thus determined, the following experiments 
 show : — 
 
 (i) o-i grm. alcohol in 20 c. c. distilled water, when oxy- 
 dized by bichromate and sulphuric acid, yielded by distillation 
 
2o6 
 
 DETERMINATION OF 
 
 [chap. 
 
 acetic acid, which neutralized 20'i c. c. d. n. soda, equivalent 
 to 0"0924 grm. alcohol. 
 
 (2) 0"025 grm. alcohol gave acetic acid, which neutralized 
 5'5 c. c. d. n. soda, equivalent to 0"0253 grm. alcohol. 
 
 The method ' of determining minute quantities of alcohol 
 after oxydation as acetic acid has, in its application to wine, 
 this particular advantage, that it can be performed upon 
 smaller quantities of wine than would be requisite for deter- 
 mining the alcohol by the specific gravity method. The 
 process is, at the same time, quite equal, if not superior, 
 in accuracy to the estimation of the volatile ethers by 
 titration. 
 
 Deter minatioti of the fixed Ethers. 
 
 250 c. c. of the wine are 
 evaporated in a porcelain dish 
 on a water-bath down to 50 or 
 30 c. c. This residue is intro- 
 duced into a small retort and 
 rendered strongly alkaline by 
 potash, some tannin is added 
 and distillation commenced. 
 The distillation has to be con- 
 ducted very slowly at first, as 
 the mixture froths and can 
 hardly be prevented from 
 rising into the condenser. 
 But, even if this accident 
 should occur, it need not 
 destroy the analysis, provided 
 
 Fig. 33. — Water-bath. a.1. • j_ t . , 
 
 the mixture has previously 
 been heated sufficiently to destroy all compound ethers. 
 When about three-quarters of the contents of the retort have 
 
 1^ We have used this analytical process for estimating the small quantities 
 of alcohol which are secreted by the kidneys, after the ingestion into the 
 stoma,ch of moderate doses of alcoholic liquids. The entire secretion of 
 twenty-four hours was repeatedly distilled, being alternately rendered acid and 
 alkaline. The fourth or fifth distillate, amounting to about 20 c. u. was then 
 treated as above. 
 
VII.] 
 
 FIXED ETHERS. 
 
 207 
 
 passed over, the distillation is arrested, the distillate rendered 
 slightly acid by sulphuric acid, and again dis- 
 tilled. This time the distillation is effected 
 without any trouble, and about half the fluid, 
 amounting to not less than 20 c. c, is distilled 
 over. These 20 c. c, containing all the alcohol 
 of the fixed ethers originally present in the 
 250 c. c. of v/ine, are put into a small, strong 
 flask (small assay flask), mixed with 10 c. c. 
 of a solution of bichromate of potassium (con- Fig, 34— Measuring 
 
 , • • 1 • 1 ,1 . Flask, holding the 
 
 taming 147 grms. bichromate and 220 grms. sul- quantity marked on 
 
 I . . . , , 1 . , the body of the flask 
 
 phuric acid made up to 1400 c. c. solution by when sued up to the 
 
 V . . f. ,. . , circular markround 
 
 water), capable of oxydizing about 02 grm. the neck. 
 alcohol into acetic acid. The flask is then 
 closed by a good caoutchouc stopper, and the latter tied 
 down by a piece of canvas and string. The flask is then 
 suspended upright in a water-bath — care being 
 taken to prevent contact between solution and 
 caoutchouc stopper, and to keep the neck of 
 the flask above the water — and is heated for an 
 hour or two. The flask is then removed, cooled, 
 opened, and some zinc and sulphuric acid added, 
 whereby in a short time all the excess of bichro- 
 mate is reduced. The green solution is then 
 transferred to a small retort, some more sul- 
 phuric acid and some pieces of broken tobacco 
 pipe stem are added, and distillation effected 
 over an Argand gas-burner or -from an oil-bath, 
 care being taken to prevent spirting. When the ^F?askf uTed^for de'^ 
 liquid is distilled nearly to dryness, the distil- SSSbyheal' 
 lation is stopped for a moment, some water added and "o? SydS 
 to the contents of the retort, and the distillation fixed^'Ss by Se 
 proceeded with until the residue has again reached TheXsk us'ed"°for 
 
 . , ^.., ,.. TiTi* ■ the former process 
 
 a point of high concentration. Water is again is seven times, that 
 added and distillation renewed, and ultimately three ttmes,Ae''size 
 
 ... . r • 111 11' ^^ ^^ engraving. 
 
 a third portion of water is added and driven 
 
 over. The united distillates contain all the acetic acid 
 
 formed. 
 
2o8 ESTIMATION OF ETHERS. [chap. 
 
 The acidity in them is estimated by decinormal soda 
 solution, each cubic centimetre of which neutralizes 0006 grm. 
 acetic acid, or is equivalent to 00046 grm. alcohol. The amount 
 of alcohol thus formed, divided by 2'5, gives the percentage of 
 alcohol contained as fixed ethers in the wine. If the process 
 has been carefully conducted, it will be found that the 
 distillate containing the acetic acid is quite free from sulphuric 
 acid, and that, therefore, the determination by volumetrical 
 analysis of the amount of its acidity affords a correct 
 measure of the acetic acid contained in it. As this amount 
 can easily be estimated to within 0'2 c. c. of the above 
 soda solution, and with care to within O'l c. c, and as these 
 quantities are equivalent to 0'00i2 and 0"00o6 grm. of 
 acetic acid, or to O'oooga and 0*00046 grm. of alcohol respec- 
 tively, an accuracy is ensured which suffices for all purposes. 
 The two quantities of alcohol just given, which are indicated 
 by 0'2 c. c. and O'l c. c. of soda, are equal to 0'000368 and 
 0000184 per cent, of alcohol in the wine taken. 
 
 In case some of the sulphuric acid in the retort should 
 have passed into the distillate by spirting, we divide the 
 distillate into two accurate halves, estimate the acidity of one 
 by the soda solution, evaporate the other half on the water- 
 bath to dryness, and determine the acidity in its re-dissolved 
 residue. By the deduction of the amount of acid found in 
 the latter from that found in the former, we obtain the 
 amount of acetic acid contained in half the distillate. 
 
 Modification of the foregoing Process. 
 
 The amount of alkali necessary to neutralize the whole 
 of the impure distillate is carefully ascertained. A corre- 
 sponding amount of standard sulphuric acid is now added, 
 and the whole evaporated to dryness on the water-bath. 
 The residue is taken up with water and its acidity again 
 determined. The latter, subtracted from that first found, 
 gives the acetic acid. This proceeding is also good to 
 make sure whether or not sulphuric acid has passed into 
 the distillate; for if one-half be evaporated, the acidity 
 of the residue will be nil. Or if the whole be neutralized 
 
VIZ.] MODIFIED AND CONTROLLED. 209 
 
 by soda, and then again acidified by the amount of acid 
 equivalent to the soda used and evaporated, all the acetic 
 acid will be driven off and a neutral residue will remain. 
 
 If an amount of alcohol should be found equal to, or 
 approaching the total amount which the bichromate em- 
 ployed is capable of oxydizing, a second estimation has to 
 be made with more of the bichromate or less of the alcohohc 
 solution. With a little practice it is easy to judge from 
 the colour of the contents of the flask very closely of the 
 amount of reduced bichromate ; and if this should approach 
 the total quantity present, the experiment should at once 
 be repeated. 
 
 Controlling Experiments with Wines. 
 
 We have found by many experiments that wine may be 
 distilled from a retort on a water-bath, or even on a sand- 
 bath, without any of the ethers undergoing decomposition. 
 Let the acidity of a wine be carefully determined, then distil 
 a measured quantity of this wine from a retort on a water- 
 bath, until from one-half to four-fifths have passed over. 
 Then unite distillate and residue, determine the acidity of 
 the mixture, and it will be found identical with the acidity of 
 the original wine. 
 
 Rauenthaler, 1862, at 54?. per dozen. 50 c. c. wine required 
 38-0 c. c. d. n. soda. 300 c. c. wine distilled, three-quarters 
 driven over, distillate added to residue ; 50 c. c. of this 
 required 37'8 c. c. d. n. soda. 
 
 Rauenthaler, 1864, i8j-. per dozen. 5° c. c. wine required 
 55-5 c. c. d. n. soda. 50 c. c. wine distilled in water-bath, dis- 
 tillate added to residue ; product required 55-30. c. d.n. soda. 
 
 Hattenheimer, 1862, 36J. per dozen. 50 c. c. required 40 c.c. 
 d. n. soda. 50 c. c. distilled over Argand burner, more than 
 half driven over, and re-added to residue, required 39-9 c c. 
 d. n. soda. 
 
 Sherry, about fifty years in bottle. 50 c. c. wine required 
 427 c. c. d. n. soda. 50 c. c distilled nearly to dryness in 
 sand-bath, water added to residue and again distilled ; lastly, 
 distillate added to residue, required 42-0 c. c. d. n. soda. 
 
 P 
 
210 ESTIMATION OF ETHERS. [CHAP. 
 
 Madeira, 1815, bottled 1817. 50 c. c. of the wine required 
 397 c. c. d. n. soda. 50 c. c. wine evaporated almost to dryness 
 in saltwater bath, distillate added to residue, required 387 
 c. c. d. n. soda. 
 
 The operation may be conducted over a sand-bath, or even 
 a free low Argand gas-burner, without any deviation of the 
 result. If any compound ether were decomposed, the acidity 
 would be increased. If the heating of the retort is care- 
 lessly conducted, the acidity is certainly altered, but not in 
 the sense in which a decomposition of ethers would alter it. 
 In.stead of increasing, it falls ; and if the heating is continued 
 long enough, the acidity of the residue is almost destroyed, 
 although no acid passes into the distillate. The dry residue 
 of a wine, v/hen heated for several days on the water-bath, has 
 lost nearly all its acidity. 
 
 Controlling Experiments with Tartaric Ether. 
 
 1. In half a litre of dilute spirit (13 per cent, by weight of 
 alcohol) 20 grammes of sugar were dissolved, and the mixture 
 evaporated on the water-bath to 60 c. c. These were treated 
 for volatile ether as above, and yielded 25 c. c. of distillate, 
 having at 15-5° C. a specific gravity of 999'99. 
 
 2. Two mixtures of alcohol, tartaric ether, and tartaric acid, 
 were prepared by boiling pure tartaric acid for some hours 
 with pure absolute alcohol. The mixture was then diluted 
 with water and alcohol, so as to bring its alcoholic strength to 
 10 per cent, and its acidity to about that of wine. The alcohol 
 present in the mixture, in combination with tartaric acid, was 
 then estimated by titration and by our new method, with the 
 following result. 
 
 (fl.) 50 c. c. required 36-5 c. c. decinormal soda. 50 c. c. 
 mixture, when heated in flask with 60 c. c. decinormal soda, left 
 I4'8 c. c. soda unneutralized ; and as 36-5 c. c. were neutralized 
 before the heating, 87 c. c. soda must have been neutraHzed 
 during the boiling, corresponding to 0-08004 per cent, alcohol 
 present in the mixture as tartaric ether. 
 
 Half a litre of the same mixture was next evaporated on a 
 water-bath to 60 c. c. These were made strongly alkaline 
 
VII.] .CONTROLLING EXPERIMENTS. 21 [ 
 
 and distilled ; the first distillate was rendered acid and again 
 distilled, 28'5 c. c. being obtained. Those at I5'S had a 
 specific gravity of 997'SO, showing 1-34 per cent, alcohol, 
 which, calculated for the half-litre taken, give 0'076o per 
 cent, alcohol present in the mixture as tartaric ether. 
 
 ip) 50 c. c. of another mixture required 24-5 c. c. d. n. soda, 
 50 c. c. mixture, heated in flask with 50 c. c. d. n. soda, left 
 29'6 c. c. unneutralized, and as 24^5 c. c. soda were neutralized 
 before the heating, 5-9 c. c. were neutralized during heating, cor- 
 responding to 0'0S428 per cent, alcohol present in the mixture 
 as tartaric ether. Half a litre of the same mixture, with 20 grms, 
 of cane sugar evaporated to 60 c. c. on a water-bath, and the 
 residue, heated as above, gave 28'5 c. c. of distillate, having at 
 I5'S°C. a specific gravity of ggS'SO, showing O'gi per cent, 
 alcohol, which, calculated for the half-litre taken, gives 0'0S20 
 per cent, alcohol present in the mixture as tartaric ether. 
 
 We have therefore — 
 
 Alcohol estimated 
 
 
 By titration. 
 
 By our plan. 
 
 Experiment 1 
 
 -08002 
 
 0-0760 
 
 2 
 
 '05428 
 
 0-0520 
 
 The fact that this acid tartaric ether is not decomposed by 
 evaporation on a water-bath is also shown by the following 
 experiment. 
 
 3. Another mixture of tartaric acid and tartaric ether was 
 diluted with alcohol of 10 per cent., so that 20 c. c. of the 
 mixture required 28-2 c. c. decinormal soda for neutralization ; 
 by titration, as above, it was found that an amount of acid 
 equivalent to lOi c. c. d. n. soda was neutralized through 
 the ether present in the 20 c. c. 
 
 Of this mixture, four quantities of 20 c. c. each were placed 
 in small evaporating dishes and heated on a water-bath. The 
 first was evaporated to ■}, the second to ^V. the third to dryness, 
 and the fourth was heated for one hour after it had become dry. 
 
 Original mixture required 
 
 28-2 c. 
 
 c. d. n. soda. 
 
 The 20 c- c in 1st dish 
 
 28-2 
 
 >) 7> 
 
 ,, „ znd dish 
 
 28-4 
 
 >) )> 
 
 ,, 1, 3rd dish 
 
 28-4 
 
 )> )> 
 
 ,, ,, 4th dish 
 
 28- 
 
 » 
 
 P 2 
 
 
 
212 DETERMINATION OF ETHERS [chap. 
 
 If any appreciable decomposition had taken place, the 
 amount of free acid would have varied instead of remaining- 
 as it did on its original height. 
 
 Determination of the Ethers in a variety of Wines. 
 
 Ratienthaler, 1864, at iSj. per dozen. Alcohol, 7-44 per 
 cent, by weight ; free fixed acid, as T, 0*674 ; free volatile 
 acid as A, 0'ii8; alcohol equivalent to total free acid, per 
 litre, S'0485 grammes; dry residue = 2-207. Sugar traces 
 right-handed, i litre distilled in saltwater bath, 100 c. c. 
 remained ; these were made strongly alkaline and dis- 
 tilled ; distillate amounted to 60 c. c. Specific gravity at 
 IS'S = 999' 14 = 0"4S per cent, by weight, or 0-027 per cent, in 
 original wine. 
 
 300 c. c. distilled, two-thirds distilled over; residue treated 
 as above, but distillate rendered acid and again distilled ; 
 25 c. c. obtained. Specific gravity at 15-5 = 999-45 = 0-29 per 
 cent. = 0-024 psr cent, of original wine. 
 
 250 c. c. evaporated on water-bath to 50 c. c. ; residue boiled 
 as above in second case ; A obtained neutralized 14-2 c.c. d. n. 
 soda, equivalent to 00653 grm. alcohol, or 0-0261 per cent. 
 
 100 c. c. evaporated to 25 c. c. A obtained neutralized 
 6'0 c. c. d. n. soda = 0-036 grm. A, equivalent to 0-0276 per 
 cent, alcohol. 
 
 250 c. c. evaporated to 25 c. c. A obtained neutralized 
 12-6 c. c. d. n. soda = 0^05796 grm. alcohol, or 0-0232 per 
 cent. 
 
 Summary. Percent. 
 
 of Wine. 
 
 By specific gravity from i litre evaporated in flask to I-Stli 0-0270 
 
 I. >> 300 c. i;. ,, „ i-3rd 0-0240 
 
 By oxydation from 250 c. c. ,, on water-bath to I-Sth 0-0261 
 
 )> >> i°o c. t. ,, ,, i-4th 0-0276 
 
 )! ). 250 c. c. ,, ,, i-ioth 0-0232 
 
 Alcohol in fixed ethers, mean . . . . . . . o-02i;6 
 
 Add alcohol in volatile ethers by titration 0-0175 
 
 Total alcohol in ethers found ...... oo±t,i 
 
 ,1 ,, calculated 0-0581 
 
 Hattenheimer, 1862. Alcohol, 9-97 ; free fixed acid as T 
 0-525 ; free volatile acid as A, 0-067 ; dry residue, 2-235 ; 
 
vn.] IN VARIOUS WINES. 213 
 
 alcohol equivalent to total free acid, per litre 3 '6 grm. ; sugar, 
 O'OiJ, per cent. 
 
 Fixed ethers : {a) By distillation and specific gravity. 300 c.c. 
 wine taken, two-thirds distilled, residue, &c. treated as above. 
 25 c. c. distillate. Specific gravity at I5'S = 999'S8 = 0'220 
 per cent.= 0"0i83 in original wine. (Geisler's instrument gave 
 strength of distillate = 0'25 per cent.) 
 
 (b) By oxydation.-^2so c. c. evaporated on water-bath to 
 40 c. c. A obtained neutralized 1 1"4 c. c. d. n. soda = 005244 
 grm. alcohol, or p'0209 per cent. 
 
 250 c. c. evaporated to 30 c. c. A obtained neutralized 
 1 1 '2 c. c. d. n. soda = 0'05 152 grm. alcohol, or 0'0206 per cent. 
 
 Summary. ^^wZ'. 
 
 By specific gravity from 300 c. u. evaporated in flask to l-3rd . , o'ol83 
 
 By vaporimeter ,, 300 c. c. „ ,, . o'02o8 
 
 By oxydation ,, 250 c. u. ,, on vifater-bath to i-6th 0'0209 
 
 ,, „ 250 c. c. ,, ,, i-8th o-02o6 
 
 Alcohol in fixed ethers, mean ....... 0'020i 
 
 Add alcohol in volatile ethers by titration 0^0253 
 
 Total alcohol in ethers found o'04S4 
 
 ,, ,, calculated ..... 0'o52i 
 
 Rauenthaler, 1862, 54?. per dozen ; alcohol, 883 per cent., 
 by weight. Free fixed acid, as T 0'44S ; free volatile acid, 
 as A 0-178. Alcohol equivalent to total free acid per litre 
 3-5075 grms. Dry residue, 1-867. Sugar, 0-062 per cent. 
 
 Fixed ethers : («) By vaporimeter. Half-litre evaporated to 
 one-fourth in water-bath, residue made strongly alkahne and 
 distilled, distillate rendered acid, and again distilled, 25 c. c. 
 passed over. Strength of distillate, estimated by Geisler's 
 instrument, 0-45 per cent, by weight, giving 0-0225 per cent, 
 of alcohol present in wine as fixed ether. 
 
 ip) By conversion into A : 300 c. c. wine evaporated on^ 
 water-bath to 20 c. c. ; residue treated as above. A 
 obtained neutralized I4'S c- c. d. n. soda, equivalent to 
 0-0667 grm. alcohol, or 0-0222 per cent, of the wine. 
 
 250 c. c. wine evaporated on water-bath to 50 c. c. ; residue 
 treated as usual. A obtained neutralized 11-30. c. d. n. soda, 
 equivalent to 0-05198 grm. alcohol, or 0-0208 per cent, of 
 the wine. 
 
214 
 
 DETERMINATION OF ETHERS 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Summary 
 
 
 Per cent, 
 of Wine. 
 
 By vaporimeter from \ litre evaporated on 
 
 bath to \ 
 
 . 0-02?S 
 
 By oxydation, from 250 c. c. ,, , 
 
 i 
 
 . 0-O2o8 
 
 „ „ 300 c. c. „ , 
 
 , 
 
 . 00222 
 
 Alcohol in fixed ethers, mean 
 
 0-0218 
 
 Add alcohol in volatile ethers by titration 
 
 
 . o'oi6s6 
 
 Total alcohol in ethers found 
 
 
 . 0-0383 
 
 ,, calculated 
 
 ■ 
 
 . 00460 
 
 Steinberger Cabinet, 1858, at \2os. per dozen; alcohol 9-74 
 per cent, by weight. Free fixed acid, as T 0-411 per cent, 
 free volatile acid, as A, 01 3 1 per cent.; total dry residue, 
 2-073 per cent. Alcohol equivalent to total free acid per litre 
 3'S2grms. Sugar none. 
 
 300 c. c. wine evaporated on water-bath to 20 c. c. ; 
 residue treated as usual ; A obtained neutralized 14-5 c. c. 
 d. n. soda, equivalent to 00667 grm. alcohol, or 00222 per 
 cent, of wine. 250 c. c. wine evaporated on water-bath to 
 50 c. c. ; residue treated as usual ; A obtained, neutralized, 
 I3-4.C. c. d. n. soda, equivalent to 006164 grm. alcohol, or 
 0'0246 per cent, of wine. 
 
 StJMMARY. 
 
 By oxydation from 250 c. u. evaporated on bath to \ 
 300 c. c. ,, „ tV 
 
 Alcohol in fixed ethers, mean .... 
 Add alcohol in volatile ethers by titration 
 
 Total alcohol in ethers found . 
 ,, ,, calculated 
 
 Light Claret, at 15J. per dozen ; alcohol, 9-05. 
 
 Per cent, 
 of Wine. 
 0-0246 
 0-0222 
 
 0-0234 
 0-02944 
 
 0-0528 
 
 o -0499 
 
 Free fixed acid as T . 0-338 
 
 Free volatile acid as A . 0-222 
 
 Residue . . .2-167 
 
 Alcohol equivdent to total free acid cal- 
 culated as A, per litre = 3-777 grms. 
 Sugar . , . 0-047 per cent. 
 
 250 c. c. evaporated to 40 c. c. A obtained neutralized 8-3 
 c. c. d. n. soda = 0'038i8 grm. alcohol, or 0'0I52 per cent. 
 250 c. c. evaporated to 15 c. c. A obtained neutralized 7-4 
 c. c. d. n. soda = 003404 grm. alcohol, or 0"0I36 per cent. 
 
 Summary. 
 By oxydation from 250 c, c. evaporated on water-bath to 4 . 
 
 250 c. u. 
 
 tV. 
 
 Per cent, 
 of Wine. 
 0*0152 
 00136 
 
V"-] IN VARIOUS WINES. iu 
 
 Per cent, 
 of Wine 
 
 Alcohol in fixed ethers, mean 0-0144 
 
 Add alcohol in volatile ethers by titration 0'oi7o 
 
 Total alcohol in ethers found 0-0314 
 
 i> >i calculated 0-05056 
 
 Madeira. Alcohol 24-1 per cent, by weight. 
 
 Free fixed acid as T _ . 0-2244 ) Alcohol equivalent to total free acid, per 
 Free volatile acid as A . 0-1470 ( litre = 2 -69 grms. 
 
 Residue . . 6"i8 per cent. | Sugar . . 1-40 per cent. 
 
 250 c. c. wine evaporated by 40 c. c. A obtained neutral- 
 ized 15-9 c. c. d. n. soda = 0-073 14 grm. alcohol, or 0*0292 
 per cent. 250 c. c. evaporated .to 25 c. c. A obtained 
 neutrahzed 15-9 c. c. d. n. soda = 007314 grm. alcohol or 
 P'0292 per cent. 
 
 Summary. Percent. 
 
 of Wine. 
 By oxydation from 250 c. c. evaporated on bath to -J- . . . 0-0292 
 „ 250 c. c. „ „ ^1, . . . 0-0292 
 
 Alcohol in fixed ethers, mean 0-0292 
 
 Add alcohol in volatile ethers by titration 0-03348 
 
 Total alcohol in ethers found ...... 0-0627 
 
 „ „ calculated 0-0834 
 
 Forster Trammer Auslese, 1862, at 24/. per ohm; alcohol 
 iO*8i per cent. ; free fixed acid as T 0-2244 ; free volatile acid 
 as A 0-1290; alcohol equivalent to total free acid per litre, 
 2-55 grms. Dry residue, 2-30. Sugar less than 0-02 per 
 cent. 
 
 250 c. c. wine evaporated to 40 c. c. A obtained ; neutral- 
 ized 6 c. c. soda, equivalent to — 
 
 SUMMARY. Ir^^^^ 
 
 Alcohol in fixed ethers o-oiio 
 
 Add alcohol in volatile ethers by titration 0-0221 
 
 Total alcohol in ethers found 0-0331 
 
 „ ,, calculated 00394 
 
 Oestricher, 1862, at 36/. per ohm. ; alcohol 11 -02 per cent.; 
 free fixed acid as T 0-3829; free volatile acid as Aoi^o ; 
 alcohol equivalent to total free acid per litre 3-542 grms. 
 Dry residue, 2-375. Sugar trace, 250 c. c. wine evaporated 
 to 40 c. c. ; A obtained neutralized 11-4 c. c. soda equiva- 
 lent to — 
 
2i6 BERTHELOT'S THEORY [cHAP. 
 
 Per cent, 
 of Wine. 
 
 Alcohol in fixed ethers . . > 0-0209 
 
 Add alcohol in volatile ethers by titration 0'°3S4 
 
 Total alcohol in ethers found 0-0563 
 
 ,, ,, calculated 0-0556 
 
 Results. 
 Wines when carefully distilled do not experience any 
 change in the amount of their free acid. Our method of 
 determining the quantity of ether in wine gives constant results ; 
 all the free alcohol or volatile ether of wine is expelled by a 
 concentration of the wine to one-fifth ; no tartaric, nor any 
 similar ether, is decomposed even when the wine is reduced to 
 one-sixteenth of its original bulk ; the process of analysis is 
 as applicable to light weak wines free from sugar as to 
 strong heavy wines with a considerable amount of sugar. 
 
 CONSIDERATION OF BERTHELOT'S THEORY OF THE LIMITA- 
 TION OF ETHERS IN WINE. 
 
 According to Berthelot, the amount of ethers found in any 
 mixture of alcohols and acids is after a certain time a constant 
 quantity, independent of the nature of the alcohols and acids 
 present, but a function only of their relative amount. 
 
 He gives the following formula for calculating the amount 
 of alcohol contained in the compound ether of one litre of a 
 mixture of acids, alcohols and water, such as wine essentially 
 is, when etherification is complete. Let A be the percentage 
 by weight of alcohol in the mixture. In all our calculations 
 with regard to wine for A was taken the alcoholic strength 
 (in per cent, by weight) of the distillate, both wine and dis- 
 tillate being measured ; a be the amount of alcohol equivalent 
 to the total free acid contained in one litre wine, on the 
 assumption of its being acetic acid (46 alcohol equivalent to 
 60 acetic acid), y the proportion per cent, of a present as 
 compound ether in one litre wine, when the alcoholic 
 strength of the wine is A ; and lastly x be the amount of 
 alcohol present in the compound ethers of one litre wine. 
 Then y = 1-17 a + 2-8 
 
 y X a 
 
 X — 
 
 100 
 
VII.] OF ETHERS IN WINE. 217 
 
 The formula holds good up to an alcoholic strength of 25 
 per cent. As in all wines by far the greatest proportion of 
 the alcohols present is ethylic alcohol, the error made in leaving 
 the other alcohols out of consideration is insignificant. 
 
 Thus in the Hattenheimer analysed above, 
 
 A = 9-97, 
 and therefore J/ = i'i7 A + 2-8 = ia,-ifi\(). 
 
 The amount of free acid per litre calculated as acetic acid is 
 
 47 grms., and therefore equivalent to 3 '6 grms. alcohol. If 
 
 I4'4649 per cent, of this is present as ether, we have 
 
 14-4649 X 36 , , , ^ , , , 
 — = 0-5207 grm. calculated amount of alcohol per 
 
 litre present in ether, while the quantity actually found 
 amounted to 04540 grm. 
 
 In all the examples illustrating our new method, the amount 
 of alcohol that should be present as ether has been calcu- 
 lated, according to the above formula, and in general the 
 correspondence with actual analysis is very satisfactory. The 
 only exceptions to this rule are the light claret and Madeira. 
 The first is probably a very young wine, in which etherification 
 is not yet complete j the second has probably had a large 
 quantity of alcohol added to it not very long before our 
 analysis, and has on that account not yet arrived at the state 
 of equilibrium. 
 
 Assuming the correctness of Berthelot's formula, we obtain 
 thus, by the estimation of ether, a valuable means of judging 
 of the age and genuineness of wines. Thus a natural wine 
 should during the first few years contain somewhat less ether 
 than required by the formula ; the amount should gradually 
 augment with age, until after from four to six years the 
 maximum would be reached. If then an appreciable amount 
 of alcohol be added, the wine be fortified, etherifica- 
 tion will begin afresh, and again reach a maximum after a 
 number of years. On the other hand, a wine prepared arti- 
 ficially, with addition of ethers, will probably at once show a 
 maximum of ethers, or will even exceed this, and will then, 
 instead of increasing in richness, remain stationary, or show 
 a diminution of the ether with increasing age. 
 
2i8 THEORY OF ETHERS IN WINE. [chap. 
 
 In looking on the amounts of alcohol present as ether in 
 the wines above described, we observe that although the total 
 amount generally agrees closely with that required by theory, 
 yet the amount present in fixed and volatile ether bears no 
 regular relation to the amount of fixed and volatile acids pre- 
 sent. The amount of alcohol present as volatile ether is almost 
 always greater than the amount present in fixed ether, in 
 spite of the circumstance that the amount of volatile acid pre- 
 sent is almost always much smaller than the amount of fixed 
 acid. The proportion between the volatile and fixed ethers 
 bears no relation to the amounts of volatile and fixed acids 
 present. All the fixed acids are present already in the grape- 
 juice, and their etherification can therefore begin as soon as 
 alcohol begins to be formed during fermentation and continue 
 simultaneously with its production. Moreover, the amount of 
 fixed acids is greatest at the beginning of the fermentation, 
 decreasing as the amount of alcohol increases, on account of 
 the lesser solubility of acid tartrate of potassium in alcohohc 
 liquids. We are therefore justified in concluding that the 
 amount of fixed ethers formed in a given time is greatest 
 in quite young or even still fermenting wine. 
 
 The volatile acids, on the other hand, are all formed during or 
 after fermentation. If therefore fermentation has taken place 
 under circumstances unfavourable to the production of volatile 
 acids (acetic acid), as at a low temperature, or in closed casks, 
 little or no volatile acid will be present at first, but the amount 
 will increase gradually with the age of the wine, provided it 
 is kept in casks. In such a wine therefore the production of 
 fixed ethers begins before that of the volatile ethers. But 
 the continually increasing amount of volatile acids, aided 
 by their greater tendency to etherification and the gradual- 
 decrease in the amount of fixed acid, soon reverses the 
 conditions, and causes the volatile ethers to preponderate. 
 
 In judging of the relative quantity of free fixed and volatile 
 acids present, it should, however, be borne in mind that the 
 volatile ethers being neutral ethers neutralize their acid com- 
 pletely, whilst the fixed ethers being acid ethers have only 
 half their acid neutralized. It is therefore necessary, in order 
 
vn.] SMELL, BOUQUET, AROMA, Qr'c. aig 
 
 to determine that part of fixed acid which is really free and 
 uncombined, to subtract an amount of acid equal to that 
 found neutralized in the fixed ethers from the total amount 
 of free fixed acid found. And from this the acid present as 
 bitartrate should perhaps also be deducted in order to obtain 
 data by which the amount of etherification due to fi'xed and- 
 volatile acids respectively may be accurately determined. 
 
 SMELL, BOUQUET, AROMA, ETC. OF WINE. 
 
 The odoriferous constituents of wine may be conveniently 
 divided into two classes : firstly, such as are more or less 
 common to all wines, forming what is termed the vinous 
 smell ; and secondly, such as are characteristic of particular 
 kinds of wine. 
 
 The first of these we have already considered, when speak- 
 ing of the acids of wine ; they consist essentially of certain 
 compound ethers formed in the wine by the action of its 
 acids on its alcohols. 
 
 The second class of odoriferous constituents may again be 
 subdivided into two kinds : first, such as are already present 
 in the grape, and are unaltered during fermentation, e.g. the 
 smell of the muscatel and Isabella grape ; and secondly, 
 such as are formed during and after fermentation, partly 
 out of substances already present in the grape, partly from 
 matters formed during or after fermentation. The first class 
 are found in what are termed aromatic wines, the second in 
 bouqueted wines. The substances characterizing aromatic 
 wines are formed apparently in greater quantity with the 
 increasing ripeness of the grape, and belong probably to the 
 category of essential oils. On the other hand, the substances 
 yielding the bouquet are sometimes contained in greater 
 quantity in unripe than in the ripe grape. Their chemical 
 nature is but little understood. Partly, no doubt, they con- 
 sist of a mixture of compound ethers, formed by the middle 
 members of the fatty acid series. These acids originate in 
 the oxydation of albuminous substances, as well as in the 
 oxydation of some of the higher members of the series, or 
 their fats. Both these substances are found in wine, and graduJ 
 
220 SMELL, BOUQUET, AROMA, Sr'C. [chap. 
 
 ally disappear whilst the bouquet is gradually produced, and it 
 seems therefore probable, that at least some part of them is 
 oxydized into these acids. The more important constituents 
 of the true bouquet, however, seem to be of a different nature. 
 The fruit, blossoms, or other parts of certain plants, when 
 submitted to fermentation, produce a small quantity of essen- 
 tial oil, termed ferment oil, which possesses a characteristic 
 smell, not unfrequently resembling the bouquet of certain 
 kinds of wine. Thus, the flowers of elder, when allowed to 
 ferment with the must, impart to it the aroma of muscatel 
 grapes; whilst the flowers of the vine itself under these 
 circumstances produce the Rhine-wine bouquet. 
 
 Berthelot has endeavoured to separate the odoriferous con- 
 stituents of the wine by means of ether, but owing to the 
 small quantity of these substances present, ajid on account 
 of their extremely unstable characters when exposed to heat 
 or the action of oxygen (or air), he did not obtain any definite 
 results. Wine (several litres should be taken) is very care- 
 fully neutralized and then shaken up with ether. The ether is 
 syphoned off and evaporated at a low temperature, air being at 
 the same time perfectly excluded. The residue thus obtained 
 being less than one-thousandth part of the wine, possesses the 
 characteristic bouquet and flavour of the wine in a high degree. 
 It is at the same time extremely liable to change. Even when 
 heated only to 35° or 40° it loses its characteristic odour, and 
 assumes the smell of heated wine, and a short exposure to the 
 influence of atmospheric air destroys the bouquet entirely, 
 exactly as the wine itself rapidly loses its bouquet when 
 shaken up with air. Owing to the small quantity of the 
 extract, Berthelot was unable to examine the exact chemical 
 nature of its different constituents ; he recognized, however, 
 the following bodies in the extract from Bordeaux and Bur- 
 gundy : — A small quantity of amylic alcohol ; an oil insoluble 
 in water, perhaps cenanthic ether; a substance not volatile 
 by itself, but slightly volatile with the ether vapour. In odour 
 it resembles the bouquet of the wine, and, like it, is extremely 
 unstable under the influence of heat or air. Amjuoniacal 
 oxyde of silver, as well as the tartrate of copper and potassium, 
 
VII.] SMELL, BOUQUET, AROMA, S^c. 221 
 
 are reduced by it, and when heated with liquor potassse it 
 becomes brown. It is readily soluble in water, alcohol, or 
 ether. Ether takes it up from water, but it is not removed 
 from the latter by bisulphide of carbon. It is not ordinary 
 aldehyde. A substance slightly volatile, faintly resembling 
 in smell that of the wine, but having no action on ammo- 
 niacal oxyde of silver, is perhaps a product of the decom- 
 position of the former. 
 
 If the wine has not been carefully neutralized a small 
 quantity of acid and colouring matter are also found in this 
 etherial extract. 
 
 According to these experiments it is of the utmost import- 
 ance that the finished wine be not exposed too much to the 
 action of air, as otherwise its bouquet will be destroyed, 50 c. c. 
 air being, according to Berthelot, sufficient entirely to destroy 
 the bouquet of one litre of wine. The destruction of the 
 bouquet in very old wines is most likely due to the gradual 
 action of the atmospheric oxygen which finds its way even 
 through the cork of the bottle. 
 
 On the other hand, if the above-given explanations as to 
 the formation of some of the fatty acids, by the oxydation 
 of albuminous and other substances in the wine, is correct ; 
 and if part, at least, of the bouquet, as is highly probable, 
 is due to their presence, the action of the oxygen on the 
 young wine is essential. It must then be left to the care and 
 intelligence of the practical wine-producer to determine how 
 long this action should be allowed to continue, by leaving 
 the wine in cask, and when it ought to be stopped as far as 
 possible by bottling, so as to bring the bouquet to its highest 
 possible perfection.^ 
 
 1 In our estimation of the volatile ethers of wine, by heating the distillate from 
 the wine with caustic soda in a closed flask, we noticed very frequently that this 
 distillate, after the heating with the alkali, possessed distinctly the smell of some- 
 what faded rose-leaves. It has before been observed, that if salicylate of potassium 
 is heated with liquor potassse and distilled, a distillate is obtained having the cha- 
 racteristic smell of rose-water. Might not the above observation show the presence 
 of salicylic acid or some analogous substance in wine ? 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE VARIETIES OF SUGAR OCCURRING IN WINE, AND 
 METHODS FOR THEIR DETERMINATION. 
 
 Origin of sugar in wine. —Cane sugar, sucrose. — Grape sugar, starch sugar, dex- 
 trose or right-handed glucose. — Fruit sugar, levulose, left-handed glucose. — 
 Invert sugar. — Quantitative estimation of sugar, Saccharometry. — Chemical 
 method. Optical methods. — Polarizing saccharoraeters of Mitscherlich, Soleil, 
 and Jellett. —Optical examination of wine for sugar. 
 
 ORIGIN OF SUGAR IN WINE. 
 
 Grapes contain a considerable quantity of sugar. This is 
 sometimes considered to be of a peculiar kind, but is more 
 probably a mixture or compound in atomic proportion of two 
 different kinds of sugar, namely fruit sugar and grape sugar. 
 The same mixture is produced by the action of acids on cane 
 sugar ; it is then termed invert sugar. 
 
 Cane sugar is never found in grapes ; it is, however, some-, 
 times added to must or to wine — in large quantities, for 
 example, to champagne. In either case, however, it is very 
 soon changed into invert sugar, so that, even after the lapse 
 of a few weeks only, cane sugar is no longer found in the 
 wine to which it had been added. 
 
 During the fermentation of the must, the fruit and grape 
 sugars are decomposed chiefly into alcohol and carbonic acid. 
 Both sugars are not, however, decomposed in equal quantities, 
 so that at the end of the fermentation generally more fruit 
 than grape sugar is left. The sugar which remains, per- 
 manently in the wine consists mainly of fruit sugar, with 
 only a small admixture of grape sugar. The proportion 
 between these two sugars is not, however, always the same. 
 
CHAP. VIII.] CANE SUGAR. 223 
 
 but seems to vary in different kinds of wine, and under differ- 
 ent conditions of fermentation. Generally, as stated above, 
 the fruit sugar remains in excess ; sometimes, however, the 
 grape sugar is left in greatest quantities ; and under certain 
 conditions it seems even as if grape sugar only remained 
 behind, all the fruit sugar being decomposed. The sugar, 
 whether fruit or grape sugar, thus left undecomposed at the 
 end of fermentation, in pure natural wines, rarely amounts to 
 more than 0"5 per cent., being generally much less. Even 
 this small quantity is found chiefly in young wines, and dis- 
 appears as the wine becomes aged. In fortified wines, to 
 which alcohol is added in order to check fermentation, or in 
 some liqueur wines made from raisins, the sugar ranges from 
 2 per cent, or 3 per cent, to upwards of 20 per cent. 
 
 CANE SUGAR, SUCROSE. 
 
 Cane sugar (Cu H22 Ou) is found in the juice of certain 
 plants, especially the sugar-cane, beetroot, and sugar maple. 
 When pure, it crystallizes in colourless, transparent crystals, 
 belonging to the monoclinic system. It has a specific gravity 
 of i'6o6, is soluble in about one-third of its weight of cold, and 
 even less of boiling water, insoluble in alcohol or ether. It 
 melts at a temperature of 160° and at a temperature of 200° 
 loses water, and becomes converted into a dark brown 
 substance, caramel. By the action of ferments or diluted 
 acids cane sugar is converted into a mixture of grape and 
 fruit sugar, termed invert sugar. This change takes place 
 instantaneously, when two parts of powdered white sugar are 
 mixed in a mortar with one part by weight of solid yeast, 
 and the mixture becomes fluid ; the conversion by acids is 
 effected slowly in the cold, rapidly at a boiling heat. Even an 
 aqueous solution of cane sugar is slowly converted into invert 
 sugar, rapidly by continuous boiling. Cold or hot alkaline 
 solutions, if not too concentrated, are without action on cane 
 sugar. Copper salts, in alkaline solution, are not reduced by 
 it. Solutions of cane sugar turn the plane of a beam of 
 polarized light to the right, the amount of rotation being pro- 
 portionate to the concentration of the solution and the length 
 
224 GRAPE SUGAR. [chap. 
 
 of the column of liquid through which the beam passes. 
 15 grms. of pure dry cane sugar dissolved in water, so as to 
 form 100 c. c. of solution, turn the plane of polarization in 
 Mitscherlich's apparatus 20° to the right ; the tube employed 
 being 200 mm. long, and the change from red to blue taken as 
 the measure of rotation. If the tube employed is always 
 200 mm. long, then the amount of rotation observed is always 
 proportional to the quantity of sugar present in 100 c. c. of 
 solution. 
 
 The molecular rotating power of cane sugar is 73'8° to the 
 right. It is scarcely affected by changes of temperature. 
 
 GRAPE SUGAR, STARCH SUGAR, DEXTROSE OR RIGHT- 
 HANDED GLUCOSE. 
 
 Grape sugar (Cg H12 Og) is found in many kinds of fruit, 
 and in honey, mixed or combined with fruit sugar. It is 
 produced by the action of warm diluted sulphuric acid on 
 starch or cellulose, is excreted in large quantities by the 
 kidneys in a disease termed diabetes, and is separated frorn 
 many substances, so-called glucosides, on their being treated 
 with acids. Together with fruit sugar, it is formed by the 
 action of ferment or acid on cane sugar. It crystallizes 
 from a moderately concentrated solution in granular masses 
 containing one atom of water of crystallization, which they 
 lose at a temperature of 60°. If the solution be evapo- 
 rated to a thick syrup, it crystallizes only after having 
 attracted sufficient water from the atmosphere to form the 
 above hydrate. From alcohol of 95 per cent, it crystal- 
 lizes in microscopic needles containing no water of crystal- 
 lization. It is soluble in its own weight of cold water, 
 but slightly soluble in alcohol, scarcely soluble in ether. 
 Dilute sulphuric acid, either hot or cold, is without action on 
 it, but hot alkaline solutions readily decompose it with forma- 
 tion of a dark brown solution. Salts of copper are not preci- 
 pitated by caustic alkalies in presence of grape sugar, but 
 yield a deep blue solution, from which sub-oxyde of copper is 
 thrown down, slowly in the cold, rapidly at a boiling heat. 
 One molecule of grape sugar thus reduces 10 molecules of 
 
Vin.] FRUIT AND INVERT SUGAR. 225 
 
 oxyde of copper, and this reduction may be used as a means 
 of estimating the amount of grape sugar present in a solution. 
 The reaction is at the same time an exceedingly delicate test : 
 the presence of even one-thousandth part of grape sugar in a 
 solution may be detected by the formation of a red precipitate 
 on being boiled with a little sulphate of copper and excess of 
 potash. Solutions of grape sugar turn the plane of polariza- 
 tion to the right, the molecular rotating power being 56°. It 
 is but little affected by temperature ; 1 5 grms. of grape sugar 
 dissolved so as to form 100 c. c. solution turn the plane of 
 polarization in Mitscherlich's apparatus i6'8° to the right. 
 
 FRUIT SUGAR, LEVULOSE, LEFT-HANDED GLUCOSE. 
 Fruit sugar (Cn Hjj Os) is found in fruit and in honey, in 
 conjunction with grape sugar. It is formed together with 
 grape sugar by the action of acids and ferments on cane sugar. 
 From a mixture of these two sugars it is best obtained by 
 adding a slight excess of hydrate of lime to their concentrated 
 solution, and strongly pressing the semi-fluid mass produced. 
 The compound of lime and grape sugar being fluid is pressed 
 out ; the solid compound of fruit sugar and lime is left 
 behind. This lime compound is next decomposed by oxalic 
 acid, when pure fruit sugar is obtained. It forms an uncrys- 
 tallizable syrup, soluble in water in every proportion, soluble 
 in alcohol, slightly soluble in ether. Fruit sugar, like grape 
 sugar, is not acted on by acids, but is readily decomposed by 
 caustic alkalies, with formation of a dark brown solution. 
 Like grape sugar, it decomposes an alkaline solution of copper 
 salts, and in exactly the same proportion. Its solutions, how- 
 ever, turn the plane of polarization to the left, its molecular 
 rotating power being 106° at 14° C. This power is much 
 affected by temperature, and at 90° it is reduced to S3\ 
 15 grm.s. of fruit sugar dissolved so as to form 100 c. c. solu- 
 tion turn the plane of polarization in Mitscherlich's apparatus 
 318° to the left, at a temperature of 15° C. 
 
 INVERT SUGAR. 
 Invert sugar (Cs H12 Oe) is the mixture of sugars found 
 naturally in the grape, and is produced by the action 
 
 Q 
 
226 SACCHAROMETRY. [chap. 
 
 of ferments and acids on cane sugar. It behaves like a 
 mixture of grape and fruit sugar, being not acted on by- 
 acids, readily decomposed by hot alkaline solutions, and 
 reducing alkaline solutions of copper salts in the same pro- 
 portion as these two sugars. The two sugars, which are pre- 
 sent in atomic proportion, may be partially separated by 
 alcohol, more completely by converting them into lime com- 
 pounds as previously described. Invert sugar turns the plane 
 of polarization to the left, its molecular rotating power 
 being 26° at 15° C; the latter becomes considerably less as 
 the temperature rises, diminishing 0'37° for each degree of 
 temperature above 15°, increasing by the same amount for each 
 degree below 15°. 15 grms. of invert sugar dissolved so as to 
 give 100° c.c. solution turn the plane of polarization in Mitscher- 
 lich's apparatus, at a temperature of 15° C, 7"8° to the left. 
 
 QUANTITATIVE ESTIMATION OF SUGAR : SACCHAROMETRY. 
 There are two chief methods for the estimation of sugar, 
 one chemical, the other optical. 
 
 Chemical Method. 
 Grape, fruit, and invert sugar reduce an alkaline solution of 
 copper salt; 10 molecules of oxydeof copper are requisite to 
 oxydize one molecule of either of these sugars. The analytical 
 process based upon this reduction which gives the best results, 
 and is generally adopted, is Fehling's. It is employed as 
 follows : — A standard solution of copper salt is prepared by 
 dissolving 34"64 grms. of pure air-dry sulphate of copper in 
 about 160 c. c. distilled water; 150 grms. of neutral tartrate of 
 potash are next dissolved in 600 c. c. to 700 c. c. caustic soda 
 solution of I •12 sp. gr. The solution of sulphate of copper 
 is next gradually added to this alkaline solution, and the 
 mixture is then made up to exactly one litre, by distilled 
 water. lo c. c. of this solution require 0"0S grm. of any of 
 the above sugars for the complete reduction of the copper; 
 the solution, which is of a deep blue, becoming thereby- 
 colourless. This standard solution is gradually decomposed, 
 and should therefore never be kept for any length of time. 
 When freshly prepared, it remains perfectly clear on boiling, 
 
Vtll.] CHEMICAL METHOD. 227 
 
 but when partially decomposed by time it is rendered turbid 
 by boiling, and deposits suboxyde of copper exactly as if sugar 
 were present. If the solution of sulphate of copper and the 
 alkaline tartrate are kept in separate solutions, and only 
 mixed as required, they remain good somewhat longer. 
 
 In solutions containing only one or more of the above 
 sugars, or besides these only such other substances as do not 
 reduce copper salts, the sugar may be estimated as above, after 
 they have been simply diluted to such an extent with distilled 
 water, as not to contain more than one-half per cent, of sugar. 
 Only in such dilute solution^ the above proportion, between 
 the sugar and oxyde of copper reduced, holds strictly good. 
 
 Any solution which besides the sugars contains other sub- 
 stances reducing the copper salt, requires previous preparation 
 so as to remove, if possible, the interfering substance, without 
 acting on the sugar. Moreover, colourless, or nearly colour- 
 less, solutions only can be employed with advantage. 
 
 Before, therefore, we can proceed to the estimation of sugar 
 in the wine, some treatment is necessary to remove the colour, 
 and some substances which also reduce copper ; unfortunately 
 the latter is only partially attainable. This latter circumstance 
 is not, however, of much consequence in wines containing a 
 moderate amount of sugar, but in wines containing less than 
 0'2 per cent, it causes frequently a considerable error, and may 
 even make the process entirely illusory. Light white wines 
 have merely to be shaken up with charcoal, which not only 
 decolorizes them, but also removes tannin, and such-like sub- 
 stances, reducing copper salts. Dark-coloured wines and such 
 as contain a great quantity of sugar require, however, some 
 further preparation. The estimation of the alcohol, after the 
 plan of Tabarie, gives us the specific gravity of the wine 
 minus its alcohol, from which the total solid contents of 
 the wine may readily be calculated, as elsewhere described. 
 Wines containing less than 2 per cent, of solid matter 
 generally require no dilution. Wines with between 2 and 
 4 per cent, solid constituents are best diluted with from 
 two to five times their bulk of water; whilst wines con- 
 taining upwards of 4 per cent, are diluted so as to yield a 
 
 Q2 
 
228 SA CCHA ROME TR Y. [CHAP. 
 
 mixture containing no more than one-half per cent, of residue. 
 Thus loo c. c. of the first class of wines being measured out, 
 20 c. c. acetate of lead solution are added (the acetate of 
 lead solution is made by dissolving one part of sugar of lead in 
 ten parts of distilled water), and the mixture, after being well 
 stirred, is allowed to stand a short time, and is then filtered. 
 The clear filtrate is next shaken up with some animal char- 
 coal and again filtered, this second filtrate being generally 
 perfectly colourless. Sometimes, though but rarely, a little 
 more acetate is required (which may be seen by the filtrate 
 from the first lead precipitate giving a further precipitate, on 
 the addition of a fresh portion of acetate of lead), or a second 
 shaking up with a fresh portion of animal charcoal will be 
 found necessary before a colourless solution is obtained. Of 
 wines of the second class 50 c. c. are taken, 10 c. c. of acetate 
 of lead solution are added, and this mixture is then diluted 
 so as to form loo c. c. to 300 c, c. solution: this is then filtered, 
 shaken up with charcoal, &c., as above. Of the third class of 
 wine 30 c. c only need be taken, 5 c. c. acetate added, and 
 water added so as to yield a mixture, giving about 50 c. c. 
 solution for each per cent, of residue in the wine ; it is filtered, 
 treated with charcoal, &c. The wine is best measured by 
 means of a pipette, and poured at once into a measure flask 
 of the required capacity, holding, when filled up to a mark on 
 the neck, 100 c. c, 200 c. c, 300 c. c, 500 c. c, &c. The acetate 
 of lead is then added, and the flask is filled up to the mark 
 with distilled water. The clear filtrate thus obtained is now 
 fit for testing. It is sometimes recommended to render the 
 wine alkaline with lime water before adding the acetate ; this, 
 however, should be avoided, inasmuch as in an alkaline solu- 
 tion grape sugar is precipitated, at least partially, by acetate 
 of lead, and a loss of sugar is thus occasioned. 
 
 10 c. c. of our standard copper solution are now measured 
 into a small porcelain dish, 50 c. c. distilled water added, and 
 heat appHed. The blue solution should remain perfectly clear 
 when boiled for a few minutes. The heat is then moderated 
 so as just to keep the solution gently boiling, and the de- 
 colorized wine is slowly poured in from a burette divided into 
 
viii.] CHEMICAL METHOD. 229 
 
 tenths of c. c. The addition of the wine should be so regulated 
 that the gentle boiling is not interrupted. 
 
 A yell-owish precipitate is produced, if sugar be present, 
 generally becoming speedily red and pulverulent, so as readily 
 to settle to the bottom. Sometimes, however, it remains of 
 a dirty greenish colour, flocculent, or very finely divided, so 
 that it scarcely settles down at all. This is chiefly observed 
 in wines poor in sugar, and is most probably due to other 
 substances than sugar, rendering the estimation of sugar in 
 these wines by means of this test extremely unsatisfactory. 
 The addition of wine from the burette is continued until the 
 blue colour of the copper solution is entirely destroyed. For 
 the purpose of observing this, the heat is moderated so as to 
 stop ebullition and allow the precipitate to subside, when on 
 slightly tilting the dish the colour of the supernatant liquid 
 can be observed. The solution should not, however, be 
 allowed to stand too long without boiling, as in the cold 
 the suboxyde of copper thrown down is redissolved, again 
 forming a blue solution. The point of disappearance of the 
 blue colour may be observed with tolerable accuracy if the 
 sugar solution employed contained not much less than O'S per 
 cent, and is free from other admixtures. In the case of most 
 wines, however, it is not easy to observe the point distinctly, 
 because the supernatant liquid generally acquires a yellowish 
 tint, which makes it very difficult to observe whether or no 
 the last trace of blue has disappeared. In such cases it is 
 advisable, as soon as the blue becomes difficult to observe, to 
 filter a small quantity of the boiling liquid (about \ c. c.) into 
 a small test tube or watch-glass, and add a drop of ferro- 
 cyanide of potassium and a few drops of diluted acetic acid ; a 
 brown precipitate or coloration indicates that there is still some 
 copper in solution ; some more wine must be added, and the 
 boiling continued until a portion thus tested gives no longer 
 any indication of the presence of copper. The intensity of 
 the coloration produced by the ferrocyanide will, after a 
 little practice, be a good indication of the amount of wine 
 still to be added, so that generally no more than two or three 
 filtrations are necessary. It is essential that the small frac- 
 
230 SACCHAROMETRY. [CHAP. 
 
 tion filtered should be perfectly clear, as, if it contains even 
 a trace of suboxyde of copper in suspension, this will dissolve 
 in the acetic acid, and thus copper will be found in solution, 
 though perhaps the whole of it had been precipitated. The 
 precipitated suboxyde is often dense and coarse enough to be 
 readily removed by filtration through ordinary filtering-paper ; 
 sometimes, however, it is so fine that it passes even through 
 Swedish paper, and great care is therefore required in using 
 this test. The filtration has also to be conducted with the 
 boiling hot solution, otherwise there is danger of redissolving 
 some of the precipitate as previously stated. If by one of 
 these means the point has been fixed when all the copper 
 is reduced, the amount of decolorized wine used is read off 
 from the burette ; it gives the quantity of solution which con- 
 tains 0'05 grm. of sugar, the quantity required to reduce the 
 copper in the lo c. c. of standard solution employed. From 
 this the percentage of sugar in the diluted wine is calculated, 
 which, being multiplied by the number of times the wine 
 had been diluted, gives the percentage of sugar present in 
 the wine. Thus let us suppose 50 c. c. wine had been diluted 
 to 200 c. c, and that 15 c. c. of this are required to reduce the 
 copper of the 10 c. c. standard solution employed. If 15 c. c. 
 contain 005 grms., 100 c. c. will contain 0-333 gmi., or 
 
 15 : 0*05 = 100 : X + .y = 0-333 per cent. ; 
 and as the wine had been diluted four times, the wine itself 
 will contain i'332 per cent, of sugar. 
 
 If less than 10 c. c. of the decolorized wine suffice to pre- 
 cipitate the copper from the 10 c. c. copper test, the dilution 
 had not been enough, and a second experiment must be made 
 with more diluted wine. 
 
 The process, as here described, estimates only the grape, 
 fruit, or invert sugar, all of which, as previously stated, reduce 
 oxyde of copper from its solution to the suboxyde, one equi- 
 valent of one of these sugars reducing ten equivalents of 
 oxyde of copper. Cane sugar does not, however, reduce 
 oxyde of copper, and cannot, therefore, be thus estimated. 
 Cane sugar is, however, readily converted into invert sugar 
 by diluted acids, and may therefore be estimated as such. 
 
VIII.] OPTICAL METHODS. 231 
 
 One atom of cane sugar becomes two atoms of invert sugar, 
 or C12 Hjj On becomes 2 x Cs H12 Oj, or 342 parts of cane 
 sugar become 360 parts of invert sugar. The amount of 
 invert sugar found has, therefore, to be reduced in the pro- 
 portion of 360 to 342, to give the amount of cane sugar from 
 which it was produced. For the purpose of conversion 
 100 c. c. of the solution containing the cane sugar are mixed 
 with 10 c. c. of strong hydrochloric acid and heated in a 
 water-bath for fifteen minutes to a temperature of 70° C, 
 after which the sugar is estimated as above. In doing so 
 it is sometimes necessary to adopt the following precau- 
 tion. The reduction of oxyde of copper to suboxyde, and 
 its consequent removal from the solution, takes place only 
 in alkaline solutions ; if then the wine is very acid, and much 
 of it has to be added to the copper test, it may sometimes 
 neutralize the alkali to a sufficient extent to prevent the 
 due action of the test. In such a case it is advisable to 
 examine whether the liquid in the dish is still strongly alka- 
 line, and, if necessary, to add a small piece of hydrate of soda. 
 
 Cane sugar, as before stated, is rapidly changed into invert 
 sugar in the presence of acid, and is, practically, never found 
 in wine. 
 
 There are sometimes found in wine substances other than 
 cane sugar, which, when boiled with dilute sulphuric acid, 
 become converted into grape sugar. They may be approxi- 
 mately estimated by the amount of sugar they yield. After 
 estimating the amount of sugar in the wine, the operator has 
 only to heat 1 00 c. c. of it with i c. c. of strong sulphuric acid, and 
 again to estimate the sugar. Any increase in the sugar found 
 is due to the conversion into sugar of such glycogenetic matters. 
 
 Optical Methods for the Estimation of Sugar. 
 Solutions of the different kinds of sugar have the property 
 of rotating the plane of polarized light. The degree of such 
 rotation depends on the amount of sugar present in a certain 
 volume of solution, the length of the column of such solution 
 through which the light passes, the temperature of the solution, 
 and the colour of the light. Upon this property of sugar an 
 easy and accurate method for its estimation has been based. 
 
232 
 
 THEOR V OF 
 
 [chap. 
 
 An ordinary ray of light falling upon a polished surface is 
 reflected, whatever may be the direction in which the ray 
 falls upon the surface. If, however, such a ray has once 
 been reflected from a polished surface (which must not, how- 
 ever, be metallic) under a certain angle, 35" in the case of 
 glass, it has acquired the remarkable property of not being 
 reflected, under all circumstances, from a second polished 
 surface upon which it may fall. 
 
 Let m m be a plate of glass, on 
 which a ray of light, A T, falls in a 
 direction making an angle of 35" 
 with the plane of the plate ; part of 
 the light will pass through, but part 
 of it will be reflected in the direc- 
 tion of T'. Now if this ray at t' is 
 made to fall upon a second mirror, 
 in 111, it will be reflected like an 
 ordinary beam, if the planes of 
 incidence (a plane containing both 
 the incident beam and the per- 
 pendicular erected at the point of 
 incidence of the beam with the 
 mirror) of the two mirrors coin- 
 cide, as in the figure. Now let the mirror m vi be turned 
 round T x', as an axis ; it will be found that the intensity of 
 the beam T' E, gradually diminishes, and, as soon as the 
 planes of incidence of the two mirrors make an angle 
 of 90° with each other, the beam T T' will not be re- 
 flected at all from the upper mirror. Continuing the rota- 
 tion, light will again be reflected, the intensity of the 
 reflected ray gradually increasing until the upper mirror has 
 been turned through an angle of 180°, when the beam T' E 
 will again be at a maximum, the planes of incidence of the 
 two mirrors coinciding once more. If the mirror be still 
 further rotated, the ray x' E will diminish again ; and after 
 a further rotation of 90°, or 270° from the first position, 
 will once more vanish, to be again at a maximum when 
 brought back to the first position. 
 
 Fig. 36.— Polarization of Li jht 
 by reflection. 
 
VIII.] POLARIZA TION. 233 
 
 During one rotation of the mirror there are, therefore, two 
 points 180° apart, where tlie reflected beam t' E is at a maxi- 
 mum, and two intermediate points in which It is at a minimum. 
 The first takes place when the planes of incidence in the two 
 mirrors coincide ; the second, when they are at right angles 
 to each other. 
 
 A ray of light which possesses the property of T t' (being 
 reflected or not reflected according to circumstances) is called a 
 polarized ray. It is assumed that in such a ray all vibrations 
 of the ether are performed in one plane, called the plane of 
 vibration ; it is at right angles to the plane of incidence in the 
 above case : this latter is called the plane of polarization. 
 
 Fig. 37.— -Showing the direction of the vibrations in a Ray of Light, &c., polarized by reflection. 
 The plate e df g is the reflecting mirror, a b the incidental ray of common light, h c the re- 
 flected ray of polarized light, the polarization consisting in the peculiarity that the li^ht vibrates 
 in tiie plane indicated hy h ik I, as sketched by the undulating line. 
 
 A similar alteration in a ray of light is produced by its 
 passage, in certain directions, through various transparent 
 media, e.g. all crystals, except those belonging to the regular 
 system. CrystaUized rhombohedric calcic carbonate, called 
 Iceland spar or double spar, shows this property of polarizing 
 a beam of light passing through it, in great perfection. A ray 
 of light passing through such a crystal, in the direction of the 
 principal axis, undergoes but a single refraction; but when 
 passing in any other direction, it is split into two rays, which 
 emerge from the crystal in different directions. Both rays 
 are polarized, the plane of polarization of the one being 
 at right angles to that of the other. One of these two rays 
 follows the ordinary law of refraction : the proportion existing 
 between the sines of the angle of incidence and angle of re- 
 fraction is constant ; it is called the ordinary ray. The second 
 does not follow that law ; it is called the extraordinary ray. 
 
 For most purposes for which polarized light is employed, the 
 
234 
 
 NICOL'S PRISM. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 existence of two rays polarized at right angles to each other 
 is not only needless but injurious, one polarized beam being 
 all that is required. The superfluous ray is therefore mostly 
 excluded by mechanical contrivances, such as Nicol's prism. 
 Let A BEG (Fig. 38) be a natural elongated rhombohedron, 
 the axis of which passes through the corners C and E ; a sec- 
 tion through A C E G will, therefore, be a principal section. 
 The face, A B C D, will be at right 
 angles to this principal section, and 
 make an angle of 71° with the edge 
 A E. This face, A B C D, and 
 the opposite one parallel with it, 
 are first replaced (by grinding) by 
 two other faces also at right angles 
 to the above principal section, and 
 making an angle of only 68° Avith the 
 edge A E. The crystal is next cut 
 in two, along a plane at right angles 
 to the principal section, and to the 
 newly cut faces ; the cuts are polished 
 and the pieces cemented together 
 again in their original position by 
 means of Canada balsam. A prism 
 thus prepared has the following pro- 
 perty. A ray of light falling on the 
 face A C (Fig. 39, on opposite page) 
 parallel with the edges A E and C G, is 
 split into two rays, — i a, the ordinary, 
 and i d, the extraordinary one. The 
 first strikes the layer of Canada balsam within the limiting 
 angle, and is totally reflected in the direction a r ; the second, 
 i d, passes through and emerges as a single ray from the face 
 E G, parallel to the original direction and perfectly polar- 
 ized in a plane at right angles to the plane A C E G, the 
 principal section (in the figure the plane of the paper), or 
 parallel to the longer diagonal of the rhombic face A C. 
 The plane of vibration of the ray is, therefore, parallel to 
 tke shorter diagonal of that face. 
 
 Fig. 38. — Elevation and section 
 of an elongated prism of Ice- 
 land spar, showing the direction 
 in which it is cut when made 
 into a Nicol's prism. 
 
via.] 
 
 POLARIZATION AND ANALVSATION. 
 
 ■231 
 
 1 
 
 If two Nicol's prisms are placed one behind the other 
 light which has passed through the first 
 prism will pass without hindrance through 
 the second if both prisms are in similar 
 position,— that is to say, if the principal 
 sections of both are parallel; the light 
 will, however, be entirely stopped by the 
 second prism if the principal sections 
 are at right angles to each other; in any 
 other intermediate position, some light 
 will pass, some will be stopped. The 
 intensity of the ray, transmitted by the 
 second prism, is greatest with parallel 
 Nicols, nil with crossed Nicols, intermediate 
 in all other positions. 
 
 Supposing now two Nicols, placed one 
 behind the other, some distance apart, 
 and a ray of light to enter the first prism, 
 which we will call the polarizing prism ; 
 it will issue from it polarized in a certain 
 direction, as before described. If, then, 
 the second Nicol, called the analysing 
 prism, is.placed with its principal section 
 at right angles to that of the first, the 
 field of view will be dark, at least the 
 central part will be black, the sides 
 showing some light. The interposition 
 of a piece of glass, or a tube filled 
 with water, between the two prisms will 
 produce no effect ; the field remains 
 dark. But if, instead of these, a plate 
 of rock crystal (cut perpendicularly to 
 the principal axis) be interposed, the 
 field of view will become illuminated, 
 and the analysing Nicol will have to 
 be turned round a certain amount to 
 render the field dark again ; a similar 
 effect is produced by certain, liquids, — oil of turpentine, or 
 
 Fig. 39. — Uongitudinal 
 section of Nicol's prism 
 through the edges a e 
 and c a of Fig. 38 ; 
 namely, through the 
 shorter diagonal of the 
 rhombic cross section. 
 
 Fig. 40. — Sections of two Ni- 
 col's prisms superimposed. 
 In the upijer figure the prin- 
 cipal sections of the two 
 prisms being parallel, light 
 is transmitted through both 
 prisms ; in the lower, the 
 principal sections being at 
 right angles, all the light 
 which has passed through 
 the first prism is stopped by 
 the second prism. 
 
236 CIRCULAR POLARIZATION. [CHAP. 
 
 solutions of sugar, for example. This experiment shows 
 that the plane of polarization of the ray is turned a certain 
 amount whilst passing through these solids or liquids, and 
 the analysing prism has to be turned to the same amount to 
 bring its principal section again into parallelism with the plane 
 of polarization of the beam as it issues from the substance. 
 
 The effect here described is called circular polarization 
 or rotation. The amount of such rotation depends, firstly, 
 upon the nature of the substance ; secondly, upon the thick- 
 ness of the layer through which the ray passes ; thirdly, 
 upon the colour of the light, and lastly, the temperature. 
 In one and the same substance the amount of turning is 
 proportional to the thickness of the layer, red light being 
 at the same time turned least, violet light most. A plate 
 of quartz, for example, i mm. thick, turns the plane of 
 red light 19°, green light 28°, and violet light 41°; a plate 
 of 2 mm. thick giving 38°, 56°, and 82° respectively. 
 
 Fig. 41.— Cylinder of a substance possessing the power of circular polarizalion, 
 showing how the plane of polarization A B of a ray of light, passing in th*^ direction 
 of the arrow, is turned (a b, a' b' d' V) in exact proportion to the length of sub- 
 stance passed through. 
 
 Let A B C D represent a column of a substance possessing 
 this power of circular polarization. Let a ray of light enter 
 the face A B in the direction c w, and having its plane of 
 polarization vertical, as A B. This plane of polarization will 
 gradually be turned the more the deeper the ray enters the 
 substance, assuming, successively, the positions a b, a' b', and 
 will finally emerge from the face C D, polarized in the direc- 
 tion a" b", making an angle ,: w a" with its original position. 
 It is this angle through which the analysing prism would 
 have to be turned so as again to extinguish the light. This 
 angle, however, as before stated, varies with the nature of 
 the light, being least for red, greatest for violet. It follows 
 that if the ray entering at A B be compound light,— white 
 
Viii.] POLARIZING SACCHAROMETERS. 237 
 
 light, for example, — it will on emerging from c D be separated 
 into its components, the red portion being turned least, the 
 violet most. If, under these circumstances, the analysing 
 prism is turned, instead of arriving at a point of darkness, 
 as with homogeneous light, the field of view will never be- 
 come quite dark, but will be illuminated by coloured light, 
 the colour varying with the position of the Nicol. If; in 
 order to extinguish red, green, and violet light successively, 
 the prism has to be turned to the right, the substance shows 
 right-handed rotation ; if, in order to extinguish the colours 
 in the above order, we must turn the prism to the left, the 
 substance possesses left-handed circular polarization. What- 
 ever be the colour of the light, the amount to which this 
 colour is rotated is generally proportional to the length and 
 strength of active substance interposed between the Nicols. 
 If, then, one of the different tints produced by turning the 
 analysing Nicol, when white light is used, could be selected, 
 which we could always readily fix upon, it would be unne- 
 cessary to employ monochromatic light. Such a tint is found 
 at the point where the blue or violet change into red ; 
 here a very little turning of the Nicol in one direction 
 will render the field distinctly blue ; a little turning in the 
 opposite direction will render it as distinctly red. The change 
 of one colour into the other takes place tolerably abruptly ; 
 the analysing prism may be placed in such a manner that one 
 side of the field is red, the other side blue, the centre a kind 
 of violet. The position of the Nicol required to produce this 
 central tint, can indeed be fixed with much greater accuracy 
 than that corresponding to the point of maximum darkness ; 
 it is the point selected by Mitscherlich to measure the power of 
 circular polarization possessed by various substances. 
 
 POLARIZING SACCHAROMETERS OF MITSCHERLICH, SOLEIL, 
 AND JELLETT. 
 
 As will be seen from the preceding, it is necessary, in order 
 to estimate the degree of circular polarization shown by any 
 substance, that we should be able accurately to fix the position 
 of the plane of polarization of a ray of polarized light. A 
 
038 MITSCHERLICH'S SACCHAROMETER. [CHAP. 
 
 great number of instruments have been devised to accomplish 
 this, of which, however, a few only can here be described. 
 
 MitseherlicKs Polaroscope. — This was one of the earliest 
 proposed, and is one of the most simple. It consists 
 essentially of a polarizing Nicol's prism ; a lens to render 
 the rays of light parallel; a tube, closed at both ends by 
 plate glass, to hold the solutions to be examined ; and an 
 analysing Nicol's prism. This latter is mounted in such a 
 manner that it can be readily turned round its longest axis, 
 whilst the degrees of the circle round which it is turned 
 can be read off a brass plate. The instrument is used as 
 follows :— The tube filled with pure water being placed between 
 the Nicols, the index of the analysing prism is placed ac- 
 curately on zero, and the observer, looking through the 
 instrument towards a bright light, turns round the polarizing 
 prism until the darkest part of the field of view is accurately 
 central. It is best to make the observation in a dark room, 
 and to screen off all light, except that which passes through 
 the instrument. It is also advisable not to look through 
 the instrument too long at a time, but to adjust at first 
 only approximately, and then rest the eye a little before 
 making the final adjustment. The polarizing prism is then 
 fixed in its position by a screw, and the instrument is ready 
 for use. The tube is emptied of the water, and then filled 
 with the solution to be examined and replaced in its position 
 between the Nicols. If the solution shows even a moderate 
 degree of circular polarization, the field of view will no 
 longer be dark, but be more or less illuminated, and show 
 a greater or less degree of colour. The analysing prism is 
 now turned slowly round until the blue colour of the field 
 passes into the red ; one-half of the field may be made 
 to show red, the other half blue : the line of demarcation 
 between these two colours should be accurately central. If, 
 however, the solution shows but a slight amount of circular 
 polarization, we must rest satisfied with fixing the analysing 
 prism in such a position that the field shows a sort of pink or 
 violet colour, which is changed to a decided blue, if the prism 
 be turned a little to one side ; and to a decided red, if it be 
 
VIII.] SOLEirS SACCHAROMETER. 
 
 239 
 
 turned towards the other. The amount of turning (rotation) 
 given to the analysing prism may then be read off the divided 
 circle, and forms a measure of the rotating power of the 
 solution for this particular colour. The amount of circular 
 polarization possessed by the various .sugars described above, 
 has been ascertained by this apparatus. The instrument is 
 not, however, capable of great accuracy, more particularly 
 with dilute solutions, and an error of half a degree, or even 
 a degree, may easily be made. More accurate is 
 
 Soleil's Saccharometer. — The essential parts of this instru- 
 ment are, beginning from the end placed towards the light, a 
 polarizing Nicol ; next a quartz plate cut at right angles 
 to the principal axis of the crystal, made half of right- 
 handed, half of left-handed quartz, the line of junction of 
 the two dividing the field into two equal parts. After 
 this comes the tube to hold the solution, followed by 
 another plate of quartz, cut as above, either from left- 
 handed or right-handed quartz. The light next has to 
 pass through two wedge-shaped plates, cut from quartz, 
 having the opposite rotating power of the preceding plate, 
 and also, of course, at right angles to the axis. These 
 wedges, by a suitable mounting, can be made to slide one 
 over the other at right angles to the direction of the light 
 passing through the instrument, and may thps be made to 
 form a plate of varying thickness ; the thickness due to any 
 particular position can be read off by a scale and vernier. If 
 the index of this scale stands at zero, the two wedges form a 
 plate exactly as thick as the first plane parallel quartz plate, 
 and, having the opposite rotating power, these two exactly 
 neutralize each other. Lastly comes a second analysing Nicol. 
 If then the index of the two wedges stands at zero, and both 
 Nicols are in the proper position, an observer, looking through 
 the instrument towards a bright light, will see the double plate 
 brilliantly coloured ; and if the plate be 7*5 mm. thick, the 
 colour of the two halves will be equal, and be a tint between red 
 and violet {couleur sensible, teinte de passage). A very slight 
 turning of either the polarizing or analysing prism will at once 
 alter the equality of the tint of the two halves. The same 
 
POLARIZING SACCHAROMETERS. 
 
 240 
 
 effect is produced by introducing the tube filled w 
 of sugar between the Nicols. The equality of 
 however, be again restored by either augmenting 
 ing the thickness of the plate formed by the 
 The rotating power of the liquid can, in this 
 completely compensated, and the thickness of 
 necessary to accomplish this is the measure of 
 power of the liquid in the tube. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 ith a solution 
 the tint can, 
 or diminish' 
 two wedges, 
 manner, be 
 quartz-plate 
 the rotating 
 
 Fig. 42. — ^Jellett's Polarometer arranged for an experiment. The box on the right 
 hand holds a lime-light. 
 
 Jellett 'j Polarometer. — All our observations were made with 
 a polarometer, which was invented a few years ago by Mr. 
 J. H. Jellett, Professor of Natural Philosophy in the Univer- 
 sity of Dublin. As this instrument is by far the most 
 accurate polarometer extant, but is nevertheless little known 
 and less used, we give a short description of it in this place, 
 
VIII. yELLETT'S POLAROMETER. 24t 
 
 accompanied with such illustrations as will make its construc- 
 tion readily understood. The description will closely follow 
 . the inventor's account, as given in vol. vii. of the Proceedings 
 of the Royal Irish Academy. 
 
 In determining the plane of polarization of a ray by means 
 of the ordinary Nicol's prism, the observer is required to arrest 
 the rotation of the prism at the point at which the intensity 
 of the transmitted Itght is at a minimum. But it is difficult 
 to do this with very great accuracy, inasmuch as the observer' 
 is obliged to compare a shade of colour not with any other 
 shade which is before his eye at the same instant, but 
 with his recollection of a shade observed a moment before. 
 To insure any tolerable degree of accuracy the observation 
 must be made very rapidly, so that the eye may receive the 
 new impression while the former one is still quite fresh in the 
 memory. The difficulty of doing this with accuracy in any 
 case is obvious, but it is most felt in experimenting on light 
 reflected or transmitted by fluids. For here it is impossible 
 to touch the instrument without producing a tremulous 
 motion in the fluid, and therefore in the image reflected or 
 transmitted ; and this motion, while it lasts, renders accurate 
 observation very difficult. But if the rotation of the analysing 
 prism be stopped for a sufficient length of time to allow 
 this motion to cease, the recollection of the previously 
 existing tint will no longer be so fresh as to allow the 
 comparison to be made with any very great exactness. 
 The difficulty will be increased, as is easily seen, when there 
 is any amount of elliptic polarization in the light which is to 
 be examined. 
 
 The remedy for this .difficulty Mr. Jellett sought in the 
 construction of an analysing prism in which the tints com- 
 pared should be simultaneous, not consecutive. The double 
 quartz plate of Arago was an attempt to realize this con- 
 ception. It has, however, no similarity in principle to, and 
 does not approach in accuracy, the instrument devised by 
 Professor Jellett. 
 
 A rhombic prism of Iceland spar, whose longitudinal edge 
 should have a length of about two inches, or a little more, 
 
242 
 
 JELLETT'S PRISM 
 
 [chap. 
 
 is cut by two planes perpendicular to those edges, so as to 
 form a right prism, as in the engraving. Fig. 43. 
 
 This prism is next divided by a plane 
 parallel to the edges S s' B, and making a 
 small angle with the longer diagonal of the 
 base d' D ; one of the two parts into which 
 the prism is thus divided is then reversed, 
 so as to place the base uppermost ; the two 
 parts are cemented together, as in Fig. 44, 
 with the surfaces of section in contact, and 
 the ends of the prism thus formed are -then 
 
 Fig. 43.— Right pnsm ^ 
 
 of Iceland spar cut ground and polished. 
 
 from an elongated ° ^ 
 
 rhr-mbic prism, show- Now it is cvidcnt from the construction of 
 
 mg the d rcction in 
 
 for'tfie' formatiw of '^^ pHsm, that if two rays of light parallel to 
 jeiietfs analysing ^j^g j^^jg {jg madc to travcrsc the two parts of 
 
 pnsm. *■ 
 
 the prism respectively, the lines of separation 
 of the ordinary and extraordinary images in these two parts 
 will be C ,v, C a' (Fig. 45) ; and as the angle between the plane 
 of section and the longer diagonal is small, the angle AC a' is 
 nearly 180°. Hence the extraordinary refrac- 
 1?=^^^^:;;^ tions in the two parts are in nearly opposite 
 || J directions ; and if the end at which the light 
 
 is admitted be so chosen that these refractions 
 shall be from the plane of section, the separa- 
 tion of the images will be nearly doubled. 
 
 Now suppose a circular beam of plane polar- 
 ized light to traverse the prism in a direction 
 ^'t'iTCtiT^J'ofTe'i- parallel to the sides, and so as to be equally 
 prism. ""''^''"*^ divided by the plane of section, the emergent 
 beam will consist of three separate parts, viz. 
 a circular beam, OCO' (Fig. 45), formed by the union 
 of the two ordinary beams, and two semicircular extraordi- 
 nary beams, E e'. If, then, the size of the incident beam 
 be suitably determined, these latter may be completely sepa- 
 rated from the ordinary beam, so as to admit of their being 
 stopped by a diaphragm which allows the ordinary beam to 
 pass ; the instrument will then transmit a single beam of 
 plane polarized light. 
 
VIII.] 
 
 AND POLAROMETER, 
 
 243 
 
 n%\ 
 
 Fig. 45. — Section of Jellett's 
 analysing prism* 
 
 Now it is easy to see that the planes of polarization of 
 the two parts into which the beam is divided by the plane 
 of section are inclined to each other at 
 an angle somewhat less than double the 
 angle DCS (Fig. 43). Suppose, then, 
 that the plane of the paper being per- 
 pendicular to the beam, the traces of 
 these planes of polarization are repre- 
 sented by A B, a' b' (Fig. 46), and let 
 c P and c p' be perpendicular to these 
 lines- respectively. 
 
 Let c/ be the plane of polarization 
 of the ray to be examined. Then 
 so long as there is any difference 
 between the angles PC/, P'C/, the 
 intensities of the two parts of the beam 
 will be different, and conversely, if these 
 intensities be equal, it is evident that the required plane of 
 polarization will bisect the angle P C P'. The prism must 
 therefore be turned on its axis until the equality of tints be 
 established, and, when this is done, 
 the position Cp of the plane of 
 polarization is known. It is not, 
 however, necessary to determine 
 the position of the planes P C, F' C. 
 The observer commences by tranS' 
 mitting a beam whose plane of 
 polarization is known, and turning 
 the analysing prism until the tints 
 become equal. The beam whose 
 
 plane is required is then introduced, and, when the equality 
 of tints has been re-established, the angle through which 
 the prism has revolved, read off on a graduated circle, gives 
 the inclination of the required plane to the known plane, 
 This mode of determining the zero, a process which for 
 perfect accuracy ought to be repeated with each new set of 
 observations, possesses the advantage of eliminating the 
 .personal equation of the observer. In examining a beam of 
 
 R 2 
 
 Fig. 46, 
 
 Diagram of tlie planes o f 
 polarization in Jellett's prism. 
 
244 JELLETT'S PRISM [chap. 
 
 any considerable magnitude, there will be found in different 
 persons a tendency to think one part of the image darker 
 than another, even when there is no real difference. With 
 different observers, and even in the same person at different 
 times, the part of the image thus preferred may be different, 
 and, if the zero were determined once for all, this might 
 occasion sensible error ; but, as in the method here given 
 such a preference will equally affect the position of the zero 
 it can have no influence on the final result. 
 
 In the first prism which Prof. Jellett . caused to be con- 
 structed the angle between the planes C P, C P' was about 7°. 
 With this prism the range of error in the determination of a 
 plane of polarization was 7', the light employed being the 
 diffused light of the sky. Although this was a very much 
 smaller range than he had ever been able to obtain with a 
 Nicol's prism, it seemed that a greater amount of accuracy 
 might be obtained, and, as the brightness of the image appeared 
 to be too great, a prism was constructed in which this angle 
 was but half of its former value. With this prism and with 
 the same kind of light the position of a plane of polarization 
 could be determined to i'. With direct solar light and a 
 prism in which the planes are still closer, a greater degree of 
 accuracy may certainly be obtained ; in fact, it can be shown 
 that by diminishing this angle and increasing the brightness 
 of the light, so as to preserve unchanged the intensity of the 
 image, the sensibility of the prism will vary as cot f, 8 being 
 the angle in question. 
 
 The prism here described is fixed in the eyepiece or analyser 
 of the apparatus, the general aspect of which is given in 
 Fig. 42, p. 240. But while the rotation of the prism necessary 
 for determining the zero-point is effected by little screws 
 fixed to the tube a little below the ring by which the eye- 
 piece is fixed to the beam on which the axis of the instru- 
 ment is carried, the mechanical rotation of the analyser for 
 the finding of any particular plane is altogether dispensed with, 
 and this function is transferred to a fluid which has the powei" 
 of turning the plane of polarization in a direction opposite 
 to that which it is intended to determine in the casual ob- 
 
VIII.] 
 
 AND POLAROMETER. 
 
 24S 
 
 servation. Any fluid may be used which possesses the opposite 
 circular polarization and the same dispersive power as the 
 solution to be examined. Of this polarizing fluid the rotating 
 index per inch, tenth, or hundredth of an inch, is ascertained 
 as expressed in per cents, of sugar contained in solution in 
 the analysing tube. The analysing tube dips into and moves 
 up and down in the compensating fluid. This arrangement 
 will be more intelligible by the aid of the subjoined Fig. 47. 
 
 Fig. 47. — Section of compensating bottle, &c. of Jellett's Saccharometer. 
 
 The order of events in an actual analysis is as follows : — 
 Binding of the zero-point. — A beam of parallel light 
 produced in the closed box at the end of the apparatus, 
 by means of the oxyhydrogen-calcium light and a com- 
 pound condenser, is thrown in the direction of the optical 
 axis of the apparatus. It passes first through the polar- 
 izing prism. The polarized beam then enters the bottom 
 of the compensation-bottle which contains a, solution of 
 pure cane sugar of 10 per cent, strength. The long tube 
 containing water is pushed down to the bottom of the bottle, 
 until its glass plate rests upon the glass plate of the bottle. 
 The arrow of the indicator is placed upon the zero-point pf 
 
246 OPTICAL EXAMINATION [chap. 
 
 the scale attached to the side (of which a portion is repre- 
 sented in Fig. 42, p. 240, and Fig. 47, p. 245), and the 
 analysing eyepiece is now turned until the tints of the 
 half- circles of its picture are equal. 
 
 (2.) Finding of the index of the 10 percentic cane-sugar solu- 
 tion as expressed in per cents, of fruit sugar. — The tube con- 
 taining water, and intended to contain the fluid to be 
 analysed, is now filled with a solution of pure fruit sugar 
 containing i per cent, of sugar, which turns the plane of 
 polarization to the left. If the tube be replaced as before, the 
 tints of the picture in the analyser will now be unequal. 
 The tube carrying the sugar solution is now raised upwards 
 by means of the milled-headed wheel, until the two halves of 
 the picture in the analyser are again of equal intensity. 
 By that means a column of 10 per cent, cane-sugar solution 
 (turning to the right) will have been interposed between the 
 fruit-sugar solution and the polarizer (as shown in Fig. 47), 
 which turns the plane of polarization as much to the right, as 
 the tube full of i percentic fruit-sugar solution turns the 
 plane of polarization to the left. Both polarizations will have 
 completely neutralized each other. Supposing the arrow to 
 stand upon i"5 of the scale, then a column of one and a 
 half inch of right-turning cane-sugar solution has been required 
 to neutralize the polarization of a solution of i per cent, of 
 fruit sugar in the tube. If now a solution containing either 
 more or less sugar be placed in the tube, a longer or shorter 
 column of cane-sugar .solution will be required to neutralize 
 its effects. And, as the effect of a column of one and a half 
 inch (in the above example) is known to indicate 1 per cent, 
 the effect of any length, or its sugar-indication, can be found 
 by the equation VS ■ i = t : x, m which / is the length of 
 the "cane-sugar column measured on the scale, and x the per- 
 centage of fruit sugar contained in the problematical fluid 
 in the tube. We have not entered upon the description of 
 minor details of the construction of this apparatus, such as 
 the chain in connection with the milled wheel, by which the 
 closed tube is moved up and down in the compensating 
 bottle, or the long lever attached to the milled wheel for 
 
VIII.] • OF WINE FOR SUGAR. 247 
 
 delicate adjustment. These must be studied upon the appa- 
 ratus itself, and, like the entire instrument, will be found to 
 leave nothing to be desired in respect of mechanism. No 
 other polarometer approaches this instrument in accuracy for 
 saccharometrical purposes; as, with care, it indicates O'OI per 
 cent, of sugar. 
 
 OPTICAL EXAMINATION OF WINE FOR SUGAR. 
 
 The optical examination of a wine for sugar is conducted as 
 follows. To 100 c. c. wine 20 c. c. of a solution of plumbic 
 acetate are added ; the mixture is well shaken, and, after 
 standing a short time, filtered. The filtrate, which is fre- 
 quently still slightly coloured, is shaken with a little animal 
 charcoal and again filtered. The colourless, and bright 
 liquid is filled into the tube of the saccharometer, and the 
 length of the column of compensating liquid required is 
 determined. The length thus found must be increased by one- 
 fifth on account of the 20. c. c. plumbic acetate added to the 
 wine. The same filtrate, after suitable dilution, as before 
 described, is used for the chemical test. As nearly all wines 
 turn the plane of polarized light to the left, the liquid usually 
 employed as compensator must be a 10 per cent, solution of 
 pure cane sugar in spirit of 30 per cent. Such a solution may 
 be kept for a considerable length of time without sensible 
 alteration in its power of rotation. When a left-handed liquid 
 is necessary, oil of turpentine has to be employed. In our 
 experiments one inch of the sample of oil used compensated 
 4"I77 inches of the above 10 per cent, sugar solution. It was 
 found that one inch of such a 10 per cent, sugar solution 
 compensated the effect of, and therefore indicated 0"632 per 
 cent, of fruit sugar and 3003 per cent, of invert sugar in the 
 1 0-inch tube, and equalled in rotating power 1-196 per cent. 
 of grape-sugar solution in the lo-inch tube. . 
 
 It follows from this, that a solution holding i per cent. 
 of fruit sugar, when placed in the lo-inch tube, requires 
 1-502 inches of the lO per cent, cane sugar to be compensated. 
 A solution holding i per cent, of invert sugar requires 
 0333 inches of the 10 per cent, cane sugar to be compensated. 
 
248 OPTICAL EXAMINATION [chap. 
 
 While a solution holding i per cent, of grape sugar, when 
 placed in the lo-inch tube, is equal to 0836 inches of this 
 \o per cent. Solution. 
 
 Now, if one variety of sugar only were present in wine in a 
 pure state, it would be necessary to multiply the number of 
 inches or fractions of an inch of the 10 per cent, cane-sugat 
 solution necessary for compensation by 0'63.?, I'I96, or 3 '003 
 respectively, to obtain the percentage of either fruit, grape, or 
 invert sugar present. Wine, however, contains a mixture of 
 fruit and grape sugar (not invert sugar), and the amount of 
 circular polarization shown by such a mixture of course de- 
 pends upon the proportion of these two sugars present. As 
 one part of grape sugar turns about as much to the right aS 
 \ part of fruit sugar turns to the left, a mixture of these twb 
 in this proportion would thus show no polarization at all ; the 
 mixture would turn to the left if more fruit sugar were present, 
 to the right in presence of more grape sugar ; but, what- 
 ever be the proportion between them, \ part of fruit sugar 
 will always neutralize the optical effect of one part of grape 
 sugar, and only the excess of either will have optical effect. 
 If the proportion between the fruit and grape sugar present in 
 wine were always the same, it would be possible to fix a rela- 
 tion between the amount of circular polarization shown and 
 the quantity of sugar present, and a single optical observation 
 would enable us to estimate that quantity. If, on the other 
 hand, the proportion between fruit and grape sugar were vari- 
 able, the optical test alone would be valueless as an indication 
 of quantity. Chemically, however, these two varieties of sugar 
 act alike, and, whatever therefore be the proportion of the two 
 present, the sum of their quantity can be estimated chemically, 
 and this, coupled with the optical test, enables us to calculate 
 the proportion of fruit and grape sugar present in any mixture. 
 
 Let X be the per cent, of fruit sugar ; y, that of grape sugar ; 
 b, that of the two sugars as estimated chemically; and let a 
 be the number of inches of 10 per cent, cane-sugar solution 
 compensating b. Then 
 
 ^ _ a + 0-836 b 
 
 2-338 
 and y = b — x. 
 
'VIII.] OF WINE FOR SUGAR. S49 
 
 If the mixture turns to the right, then the number of inches of 
 lO per cent, cane sugar having the same rotating power must 
 be calculated and entered as a negative quantity in the above 
 equation, or, 
 
 2-338 
 andj/ = b — x. 
 
 Thus it may be calculated from the figures given that a 
 solution containing 2 per cent, of invert sugar requires 0'666 
 inches of the 10 per cent, cane sugar for compensation, and 
 putting these values into the above formula we have 
 
 _ o'666 + 2 X 0836 _ 2338 _ i 
 
 ^ 2-338 ~ 2-338 ~ ' 
 
 and y of course also i, showing that invert sugar contains 
 fruit sugar and grape sugar in equal proportion. 
 
 It is this same invert sugar which is present in grapes ; it is 
 not, however, according to our experiments, present in wine. 
 
 Thus it was found that in a number of pure natural wines 
 from the Rhine and Gironde, which contained a sufficient 
 amount of sugar to admit of accurate estimation, both 
 chemically and optically, one inch of the 10 per cent, cane- 
 sugar solution indicated, in the mean, i'057 P^'' cent, sugar 
 as determined chemically. The above formula will, there- 
 fore) give 
 
 X = 0-805 per cent. 
 y = 0-252 per cent. 
 
 or, for one part of grape sugar, 3-19 parts of fruit sugar were 
 present, showing a considerable preponderance of the latter. 
 
 Very nearly the same proportion was found to exist in a 
 sample of fine old Madeira, which had been fifty years in 
 bottle. In this one inch of the sugar solution indicated i -024 
 per cent, sugar as estimated chemically, or — 
 
 X = 0-793 
 y = 0-231 
 
 so that for one part of grape sugar 3-43 parts of fruit sugar 
 were present. 
 
 Again, a spmewhat similar condition was found in six high 
 
250 OPTICAL EXAMINATION [chaf. 
 
 class port wines, in which, on an average, one inch of the 
 10 per cent, cane-sugar solution indicated I'I79 per cent, 
 of sugar, or . 
 
 X = "849 
 
 V = -330 
 
 so that for one part of grape sugar there are 2 '5 7 parts of fruit 
 sugar present. 
 
 In some other wines, however, the relation between the 
 optical characters of the sugar and its amount was very 
 different. 
 
 Thus one inch of the 10 per cent, cane-sugar solution 
 indicated the following percentages of sugar : — 
 
 I "971 per cent. ;n a sample o*" cheap port. , , 
 
 ?'»io ,, ,, fifty-year-old higli clr Si sherry. 
 
 4329 „ ,, Marsala. 
 
 4 '6 1 7 ,, ,, cheap sherry. 
 
 5'5I2 „ ,, Elbe sherry. 
 
 Or one part of grape sugar was associated in each of these 
 wines respectively with — 
 
 I -35 parts of fruit sugar. j 0-84 parts of fruit sugar. 
 
 126 „ „ I o-8i „ 
 
 073 parts of fruit sugar. 
 
 In the case of the last three samples so-called saccl.a ine 
 had no doubt been added. 
 
 If the proportion of fruit sugar sinks to about half that 
 of grape sugar, the wine shows no polarization at all, for th,e 
 left-handed polarization of the fruit sugar is then just neu- 
 tralized by the ri^ht-handed one of the grape sugar. This 
 condition was found to exist in a sample of natural port, in 
 which chemical tests showed the presence of O'l 77 per cent, 
 sugar, whilst not a trace of polarization was perceptible when 
 examined in Jellett's saccharometer. When the proportion 
 of fruit sugar sinks still lower, the wine begins to turn to the 
 right. In such a case it is usually assumed that grape suo-ar 
 has been added to the wine : we have, however, met with' 
 several samples of wine, to which, as far as we could learn, 
 no such addition had been made, and which, nevertheless 
 
VII 1.] OF WINE FOR SUGAR. 
 
 251 
 
 turned to the right. These samples were young wines, and, 
 having been kept for some time in rather too warm a place; 
 had entered into a state of fermentation in the bottle: the 
 remaining sugar turned to the right Jhe following observaT 
 tidn may perhaps serve to throw some light on these cases. 
 A sample of Geisenheimer Rothenberger (a very high-priced 
 cabinet wine, and therefore not likely to have anything added 
 to it) had been kept in the same room with the above, and, 
 like them, had begun to ferment. When first examined it 
 turned distinctly to the left, requiring 028 inches of 10 per 
 cent, cane-sugar solution for compensation : the sugar was at 
 that time (January) not chemically examined. Eight months 
 afterwards (in September) the wine was again ;examined ; the 
 bottfe containing it had during this time stood upright in the 
 laboratory. Fermentation had entirely cea.'iEd, hut the wine 
 contained distinct traces of aldehyde, and, according to 
 chemical analysis, still contained 0'I54 per cent, sugar : this, 
 however, turned to the right, equivalent to 0104 inches of 
 10 per cent, cane-sugar solution (being compensated by o'oiy 
 inches left-handed turpentine), and consisted therefore of 
 0"I44 per cent, grape sugar and O'OIO per cent, fruit sugar. 
 The latter had therefore almost entirely disappeared. It is 
 thus made probable that, while under ordinary circumstances 
 of fermentation the residual sugar is chiefly fruit sugar, under 
 certain special conditions the grape sugar is chiefly preserved, 
 and its presence in wine must not necessarily be taken as 
 indicating any adulteration. 
 
 The sugar contained in Champagne is chiefly invert sugar, 
 formed by the action of the acids in the wine on the cane 
 sugar added in the liqueur. Thus, in a sample of Champagne 
 examined, i inch of 10 per cent, cane-sugar solution indicated 
 2'935 per cent, of sugar as tested chemically, a proportion 
 which corresponds almost exactly to invert sugar, . 
 
 The foregoing experiments show that neither the chemical 
 nor tfie optical examination of the wine is by itself sufficient 
 to afford a clear insight into the nature of the sugar present. 
 The chemical test alone will indeed give the amount of sugar 
 present, but leaves the nature of the sugar quite undetermined. 
 
252 OPTICAL EXAMINATION OF WINE. [CH. vill. 
 
 The optical test, on the other hand, is valueless as an indica- 
 tion of the quantity of sugar present, and cannot even be relied 
 on as a qualitative test. It is only by the employment of the 
 optical and chemical test jointly that both the quantity and 
 quality of the sugar present in wine can be ascertained. 
 
 Cane sugar is only rarely found in wine, as when added it 
 is speedily converted into invert sugar. Its presence or 
 absence may be shown by heating the wine for some time 
 with a solution of caustic potassa. Fruit and grape sugar 
 are decomposed by the alkali ; cane sugar remains unaltered, 
 and is detected (after decolorizing, &c.) by its power of right- 
 handed polarization, which may be changed into left-handed 
 by heating with lo per cent, of strong hydrochloric acid. 
 
 In a sample of Rhine wine a substance was found resem- 
 bling fruit sugar in its behaviour, but being somewhat more 
 difficult to decompose by heating with an alkaline solution, 
 and not reducing the copper solution so readily as this sugar. 
 It was unaffected by heating with dilute hydrochloric or sul- 
 phuric acid. The 'dry substance, which showed no sign of 
 crystallization, was slightly soluble in spirit of wine, very 
 slightly soluble in a mixture of alcohol and ether ; in either 
 case the portion dissolved and the residue showed the same 
 power of circular polarization. Assuming that this substance 
 reduced the copper solution in the same proportion as grape 
 sugar, the wine contained 0647 per cent, of it, which gave a 
 right-handed rotation, compensated by o 64 inches left-handed 
 turpentine, or equivalent to 2673 inches of 10 per cent, cane- 
 sugar solution. The rotating power of this substance would 
 then be nearly five times as great as that of grape sugar. 
 The quantity of wine in our possession was too small to 
 allow a more careful examination of the substance to be 
 made, and we could not learn by inquiry whether anything 
 had been added to the wine. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Patty, colouring,albuminous, astringent, extractive, 
 and mineral constituents of wine.— analytical 
 
 TABLES. 
 
 Glycerine. — Colouring matters. — Ammonia. — Albuminous matters. — Estimation 
 of ammonia and albumen in wine by Wanklyn and Chapman's process. — 
 Tannin. — Extractives; — Mineral constituents. — Estimation of ash. — Analysis of 
 ash. — Total solid constituents. — Instruments and chemical reagents necessary 
 for the performance of an analysis of wine. — Syllabus of analysis. — Tables 
 exhibiting the results of the analyses of various wines from the principal wine- 
 producing countries. 
 
 GLYCERINE. 
 
 Glycerine (Cg Hj O3 = C3 H^, H, O3) is one of the consti- 
 tuents of animal and vegetable fats, from which it may be 
 prepared by saponification or by decomposition with super- 
 heated steam ; in both cases the fat takes up three molecules 
 of water, and breaks up into fatty acid and glycerine. It 
 is formed in small quantity during the fermentation of sugar, 
 and has also been prepared artificially. It is a colourless, 
 syrupy, sweetish liquid, of i'27 spec, gr., soluble in every 
 proportion in water and alcohol, insoluble in ether. It boils 
 at 275 — 280° C, but suffers partial decomposition, producing 
 pungent vapours of acrolein ; it may, however, be distilled 
 without decomposition in a current of superheated steam at a 
 temperature of about 230° C. When heated with substances 
 having a strong affinity for water, phosphoric anhydride for 
 example, it is converted into acrolein (C3H4O). By the 
 long-continued action of yeast and water it is converted into 
 propionic acid. When carefully oxydized, it yields glyceric 
 acid. It is a tridynamic alcohol, containing the tridynamic 
 radicle C3 H5. 
 
254 FATTY, ETC. CONSiTITUENTS. [chap. 
 
 Like other alcohols, it forms with acids compound ethers. 
 Natural fats are such ethers, in which the three atoms of 
 hydrogen are replaced by acid radicles. These fats, and 
 other analogous substances, may be made artificially by heat- 
 ing the glycerine and acid in glass tubes closed by fusion. 
 
 A certain proportion of sugar is, during fermentation, 
 transformed into glycerine ; lOO parts of cane sugar or 105-26 
 parts of grape sugar yield 3 '64 parts of glycerine. It should, 
 therefore, always be present in wine in the proportion of about 
 one-fourteenth part of the alcohol, and must exercise no 
 inconsiderable influence on its taste by rendering it slightly 
 sweetish. The method proposed by Pasteur, for the detection 
 and estimation of the glycerine in wine, is as follows : Half a 
 litre of wine is shaken with forty grms. of animal charcoal, 
 and, after standing for twenty-four hours, filtered. The char- 
 coal is well washed with cold water, and filtrate and washings 
 are evaporated on a water-bath to 200 c. c. At this point they 
 are neutralized with hydrate of lime, and then evaporated to 
 dryness. The residue is treated, in the evaporating dish, with 
 a mixture of two parts of ether and one part of alcohol, which 
 dissolves only the glycerine, with scarcely a trace of anything 
 else. The etherial solution is evaporated on a water-bath, 
 and finally dried in vacuo over oil of vitriol ; the residue, 
 consisting mainly of glycerine, is -then weighed. We have, 
 however, found that the residue thus obtained is never pure, 
 but contains notable quantities of fruit sugar, if such is 
 present in the wine, as well as various other extractive 
 matters, and cannot therefore be taken as an accurate 
 measure of the amount of glycerine present. 
 
 Pohl has suggested that the difference between the total 
 amount of residue found by evaporation and drying, and the 
 amount of such residue calculated from the specific gravity 
 of the wine deprived of its alcohol, minus a certain correction 
 for other volatile constituents, which he proposes to fix provi- 
 sionally at OT per cent, might be taken as a measure of the 
 glycerine present. He has at the same time pointed out 
 several sources of error to which this method would be liable ; 
 and our numerous analyses of wine giveri in the tables in 
 
1X.1 COLOURING MATTERS. 
 
 255 
 
 some of which the total amount of residue found by evapo- 
 ration, &c. is less even than the sugar alone, show that this 
 method is totally inapplicable. If once we are able accu- 
 rately to estimate the amount of glycerine present in a wine, 
 we shall be in a position to determine its influence on the 
 character of a wine, and to show how the quantity is affected 
 by the nature of the grapes or of fermentation, or by the 
 age of the wine. Until such a niethod is found, we can ■ only 
 speculate upon the probable influence of glycerine upon the 
 character of a wine. 
 
 COLOURING MATTERS. 
 ■ There are some varieties of wines which are almost colour- 
 less, such as Champagne and certain kinds of Moselle; others 
 are purely yellow, like old Sauternes. Then we have all 
 varieties of shade up to dark brown. These colorations are 
 produced by the oxydizing effect of the air upon certain 
 matters contained in smaller or larger quantity in grapes, viz. 
 the so-called extractives, or bodies not yet known in a distinct 
 and isolated form, and the tannic acid which is extracted by 
 the juice or wine from the husks, kernels, and stalks. The 
 wine during fermentation and rest in the cask also extracts 
 tannin from the oak. Now, just as raisins during drying 
 assume a brown colour, which becomes a light yellowish 
 brown in any dilute watery or alcoholic extract, so the wine 
 during ripening becomes darker in colour, and, in many cases, 
 sheds a brown deposit — the fully oxydized extractive matter 
 and tannin, which is incapable of remaining in solution. 
 
 For the presence and identification of the extractive matters 
 .we have at present no test, but the tannin may be recognized 
 by the tests described in the paragraph relating to it. 
 
 The oxydation of some of the extractive matters can some- 
 times be observed to take place rapidly in young rich wine, 
 which has been prematurely bottled and is then exposed to 
 the air. This phenomenon on the Rhine is called " Rohnig 
 werden des Weins.'' When a glass of such wine is poured out, 
 it changes its colour within a few minutes, so as to attract 
 attention. When such wine is filled into a white glass bottle 
 
256 COLOURING .\rATTERS. [chap.- 
 
 and allowed to stand open, it will become brown on the surface, 
 and the colour will gradually descend to the bottom of the 
 flask. The upper layers will, after some days or weeks, be 
 actually blackish brown ; ultimately, a dark deposit falls. 
 During this process the alcohol is oxydized to acetic acid. 
 The phenomenon is due to the fact that the wine has not been 
 sufficiently in contact with air, and that therefore its ex- 
 tractive constituents have not been sufficiently precipitated 
 during fermentation, and now absorb the oxygen they want. 
 Such wine must therefore be brought into contact with much 
 air at lower temperatures, and, when the oxydation is com- 
 pleted, be bleached with sulphurous acid. This rapid change 
 of colour is observed sometimes upon all kinds of white wines, 
 upon Graves, Barsac, Haut-Sauternes, Rhenish, and Hungarian 
 wines ; it denotes, in the opinion of Pasteur, the presence of 
 decomposing fungi in the wine. . 
 
 The colour of simmered wine is much darker than that of 
 wine which has not been heated, because the higher tempera- 
 ture effects a quicker oxydation, and produces some new 
 matters by the influence of acid upon sugar. This coloration 
 of simmered wine is imitated by the makers of artificial wine, 
 by adding to the liquid a quantity of burnt sugar or caramel. 
 Those who drink brown sherry or brown brandy, and prefer 
 them to the pale varieties, unwittingly protect a practice 
 which will always detract a little from the purity of the 
 taste of the wine or brandy. 
 
 While the colour of yellow and brown wines seems to be 
 due to oxydized tannin and extractive matters, and not to any 
 particular colouring matters, the tints of all kinds of red wine, 
 whether they are slightly rose-coloured or almost black and 
 impenetrable to light, are produced by peculiar colouring 
 matters deposited originally either in the pulp or in the husk 
 of the grapes. The soluble colouring matters contained in the 
 pulp of grapes produced by such varieties of vines as the 
 " Teinturier," which is extensively grown in France and Spain 
 for the purpose of producing wine of deep colour for dyeing, 
 have never yet been examined. They differ, of course, greatly 
 from the colouring matter deposited in the husks of grapes, 
 
IX.] COLOURING MATTERS. 
 
 257 
 
 particularly by the evident fact of their solubility in the juice 
 of the grapes, in which the dye of the husks is insoluble^ 
 This soluble colouring matter is more closely related to that 
 contained in the juice of elderberries and black currants. As 
 it enters into the composition of most Spanish, Portuguese, 
 South French, and Central French red wine, we have, on 
 attempting to extract the colouring matters, to deal with 
 a mixture. This we might easily separate, if the colour- 
 ing matters retained their original properties, but such is 
 not the case. Until, therefore, the pigments of the several 
 varieties of grapes have been separately examined, the 
 chemistry of the colouring matters of red wine is not likely 
 to make much progress. Mulder has made the first and best 
 researches on this subject ; he selected a common Bordeaux 
 wine for his examination, but the varieties of grapes from 
 which it was made are not stated. Being a wine sold in Hol- 
 land, we may suppose that it was a mixture of Vin de Palus 
 and of Vin du Midi, such as is commonly made at Bordeaux 
 for the Dutch market. We have repeated the process upon a 
 large quantity of a similar wine, and can confirm the results 
 obtained by Mulder. It is as follows : — 
 
 The wine is precipitated by means of lead acetate, and the 
 pale blue precipitate is collected on a filter or washed by de- 
 cahtation ; the first washing water has an acid reaction and a 
 pale violet colour, but the following portions become neutral 
 and colourless. The precipitate is now treated with hydro- 
 thion and again washed : at first much acid red-coloured liquid 
 is removed, but, after a time, the washings become colourless 
 and neutral. The bluish black mass retains the colouring 
 matter in the same manner as animal charcoal retains such 
 matters. The mass is now boiled with water, in order to 
 extract some products which are less soluble in cold water 
 than in hot, and is then extracted with a mixture of alcohol 
 and strong acetic acid. This alcoholic acetic solution of the 
 colouring' matter is now evaporated, when it at first becomes 
 red like wine ; as the alcohol evaporates further it becomes 
 violet ; and, lastly, when only little . acetic acid remains, 
 beautifully blue. The residue is dried completely, and a 
 
 s 
 
258 COLOURING MATTERS [chap. 
 
 little fat contained in it separated by ether. Any trace of 
 lead which may remain with it can be removed by a little 
 dilute acetic acid, whereupon the colouring matter will re- 
 main in a pure state. 
 
 The colour of the dry substance is bluish black, like black- 
 lead ; its structure is amorphous. It is insoluble in alcohol, 
 water, ether, chloroform, bisulphide of carbon, oil of turpen- 
 tine, and oil of olives. 
 
 It is soluble in alcohol, containing a trace of acetic acid, 
 and the saturated solution has a blue colour ; more acetic acid 
 makes the solution red. In alcohol and tartaric acid it is also 
 soluble with a red colour. The presence of any of these 
 acids in ether or chloroform does not cause it to dissolve in 
 either of these agents. A red solution in alcohol and tartaric 
 acid will, after complete neutralization of the acid by ammonia, 
 become blue, after having for a moment shown the colour of 
 chromealum ; any other alkali will have the same effect; acids 
 restore the red colour. If a slight excess of ammonia be added 
 to the acid alcoholic solution, the colouring matter becomes 
 green. If an acid be now quickly added, the red colour is 
 restored, but not with the same intensity as before ; and, if the 
 ammonia is allowed to act upon it for a few moments, or an 
 excess has been used, the subsequent addition of an acid does 
 not any longer restore the red colour, but produces only a 
 brown tint. * The colouring matter has been decomposed. 
 Almost the same reactions are observed upon all red vegetable 
 juices, particularly of fruit. Fixed caustic alkalies effect the 
 destruction as certainly as, and quicker than, ammonia. 
 Strong acids do not much affect the pigment, but hot nitric 
 acid destroys it. Chlorine water decolorizes it, and leaves a 
 brown liquid ; excess of chlorine makes the solution yellow. 
 
 The phenomena observed during the action of chlorine have 
 induced Faure to assume that there are two colouring matters 
 present in the preparation obtained by Mulder's process. But 
 Mulder denies this, and believes the reaction to belong to the 
 pure colouring matter. 
 
 When the alcohol and tartaric acid solution is mixed with 
 silver nitrate, it becomes deeper red ; with subHmate, pale ; 
 
IX.] OF RED WINE. 
 
 259 
 
 with mercurous nitrate, not changed ; with tin chlonde, darker 
 red and slightly violet ; the tartrates of the metals are preci- 
 pitated colourless. Acetate of alumina gives a violet shade to 
 the solution. 
 
 The colour of wine is determined by two factors, the amount 
 of the blue colouring matter present, and the quantity of 
 free acid which acts upon it. The more free acid is present, 
 the more red will the wine appear ; and with the decrease of 
 the acidity, the colour will approach towards the violet. 
 
 The colouring matters in Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Oporto 
 wine behave essentially in the same manner when subjected 
 to the above proceeding, and it is difficult to explain this, 
 particularly with regard to port, which always contains a pro- 
 portion of the juice of the "Teinturier" besides the ordinary 
 red matter from the husks of the large black grapes. When 
 port wine is precipitated with lead acetate, a dirty-coloured 
 deposit is obtained. This is washed until the water is colour- 
 less, decomposed with hydrothion, and again washed with 
 water. It is then heated with warm alcohol and tartaric acid, 
 and yields a tincture of the original colour of port wine, which 
 is redder if the wine be young, or browner if it be old. This 
 liquid is digested with calcium carbonate, evaporated to 
 dryness on the water-bath, and then heated with water, until 
 the last traces of acid reaction disappear. On now being 
 boiled with water, it yields on filtration a brown liquid contain- 
 ing the oxydized or changed tannin, while the insoluble tartrate 
 of calcium retains the red colouring matter. The latter may 
 be extracted by means of alcohol and tartaric acid. 
 
 The crust which port wine forms in bottles contains 
 oxydized tannin in an insoluble state, and colouring matter 
 probabl)'- also in a changed state. The changed tannin com- 
 bines with the colouring matter like the lead oxyde. 
 
 The colouring matter seems to be rather stable in the 
 precipitated state, for it can be prepared with all its charac- 
 teristic properties from old crude red tartar. 
 
 There are added to wine in various parts of the world other 
 natural dyes ; nay, even some red wine is made of white wine 
 coloured with a vegetable pigment not being the product of 
 
 .s 2 
 
26o ALBUMINOUS MATTERS. [CHAP- 
 
 any vine at all. Black cherries are a favourite dye. Next 
 come elderberries, the production of which for this purpose 
 is something enormous. Bilberries are used in many parts, 
 but the great drug is Brazil wood, or logwood. It is probable 
 that chemical and spectral analysis will soon be able to detect 
 those several adulterations. Brazil wood, and particularly 
 elderberry juice, have peculiar spectra while fresh, but lose 
 their absorption bands to a great extent by time and standing. 
 But if larger quantities of adulterated wine are examined, even 
 after some time, some of the peculiar ingredients can still be 
 discovered. Sorby has lately instituted researches into this 
 matter, which, when complete, will be an interesting addition 
 to our knowledge on this difficult subject. 
 
 AMMONIA. 
 
 Small quantities of ammonia are present in the grape-juice, 
 or are formed during fermentation out of the albuminous sub- 
 stances of the juice. The greater part of this ammonia is 
 precipitated during the progress of fermentation as ammonio- 
 phosphate of magnesia. An extremely minute quantity, 
 however, remains in the wine, and can be isolated and 
 estimated as follows : — 
 
 lOO c. c. of wine are introduced into a retort, 200 c. c. 
 water are added, and about lOO c. c. distilled off. The residue 
 in the retort is next rendered slightly alkaline by carbonate of 
 soda, and the distillation resumed, lOO c. c. being again driven 
 over, of course into a new receiver. In this second distillate 
 the ammonia maybe estimated either by very careful titration 
 with 5^ normal sulphuric acid, or by Nessler's process. If the 
 wine contains much sugar, care must be taken to add a suffi- 
 cient amount of carbonate of soda, so as to keep the wine 
 alkaline at the end of the distillation. 
 
 In some wines the ammonia is accompanied by minute 
 traces of trimethylamine. 
 
 ALBUMINOUS MATTERS. 
 Grapes contain albuminous substances, which, like all such 
 are extremely Hable to undergo decomposition, and to induce 
 
IX.] DETECTION OF ALBUMEN. 261 
 
 decomposition in other substances in contact with them. 
 When exposed to the air by the crushing of the berry, they 
 absorb oxygen and yield the ferment under the influence of 
 which the sugar is transformed into carbonic acid and alcohol : 
 this ferment is absorbed by the yeast, rendered insoluble, and 
 thus removed from the wine. Properly fermented white wines 
 contain very little of this albuminous substance, and are but 
 little liable to further change. In imperfectly fermented wines, 
 on the other hand, some of this albuminous substance remains 
 dissolved, and renders them liable to fresh fermentation. All 
 red wines, owing to their having fermented with the husks, 
 contain, when young, much albuminous substance, which is 
 _ preserved from change by the tannin present. In the course 
 of time the greater part of it is thrown down with the colour- 
 ing matter and tannin. 
 
 Detection of Albumen. — New white wines, not thoroughly 
 fermented, and most red wines, give a precipitate, when 
 mixed with strong chlorine water, which is probably some 
 chlorinated albumen. If half a litre of wine is taken for the 
 experiment, the precipitate may be collected on a weighed 
 filter, dried, and weighed, and will thus furnish a means of 
 estimating the amount of albuminous substance present. 
 White wines, thoroughly fermented, or when some years old, 
 do not contain this kind of albuminous substance ; they 
 remain, consequently, clear when mixed with chlorine water. 
 They are not, however, on that account entirely free from 
 such matters, as is shown by the amount of nitrogen they 
 evolve when subjected to elementary analysis, or to the pro- 
 cess employed for the examination of water by Wanklyn 
 and Chapman. 
 
 ESTIMATION OF AMMONIA AND ALBUMEN IN WINE BY 
 WANKLYN AND CHAPMAN'S PROCESS. • 
 
 About 1200 c. c. of pure distilled water are put into a large 
 flask or retort, connected with a condenser ; 2 grms. carbonate 
 of soda are added, and about 100 c. c. distilled over. This 
 distillate is tested with Nessler's reagent, and if not found free 
 from ammonia, another 100 c. c. must be distilled, and again 
 
262 ESTIM/ITION OF AMMONIA, ETC. [chap. 
 
 tested, and this has to be repeated until the distillate is found 
 free from ammonia. 
 
 After the water in the flask has cooled somewhat, lo c. c. 
 wine are added, and the distillation is recommenced, 400 c. c. 
 being this time driven over. In this distillate the ammonia is 
 estimated by Nessler's test. We have found that, not un- 
 frequently, the colour produced in this distillate by the Nessler 
 test is canary yellow, instead of brownish, as in the case of 
 ammonia. This is perhaps owing to the presence of some of 
 the compound ammonias. 
 
 To the contents of the flask are now added 2 grms. of pure 
 permanganate of potassium and 10 grms. of hydrate of potash, 
 previously dissolved in about 100 c. c. of distilled water and 
 boiled for some time, so as to avoid all chance of contamination 
 with ammonia. Some pieces of freshly ignited tobacco pipe 
 are put into the flask to avoid bumping. From 500 to 
 600 c. c. of fluid are distilled over and separately collected. 
 In this distillate the ammonia is also estimated by Nessler's 
 test, or by careful titration with -j^ normal acid. The amount 
 thus found, multiplied by ten, gives the quantity of albumi- 
 nous matter in the 10 c. c. wine taken, and multiplied by lOO 
 gives the per cent, of the albuminous matter in the wine. 
 
 We have convinced ourselves, by careful experiments, that 
 the above process gives constant results when applied to one 
 and the same wine. 
 
 In the following tables we give some of the analytical 
 results obtained by the above processes : — 
 
 A mmonia — 
 
 Rauenthaler (1862) . o'0038 per cent 
 
 Do. (1864) 0-0799 ,. 
 
 Ilattenheimer (1862) 0-0039 ,, 
 
 Hungarian . . . 0-0029 ,, 
 
 Natural sherry . 0-0007 i> 
 
 Natural sherry . o-ooio per cent. 
 
 Do. {1850). 0-0012 ,, 
 
 Cape port .... none. 
 Cape sherry . . . none. 
 
 Do. . . . 0-0005 per cent. 
 
 Albuminous matters estimated by the addition of strong 
 chlorine water to the wine — 
 
 Kiedericher . . 
 
 . slight trace. 
 
 Graefenberger 
 
 none. 
 
 Selzener . . . 
 
 . 0-0278 per cent. 
 
 Erbacher . . . 
 
 slight trace. 
 
 Jugenheimer . . 
 
 . 0-0160 ,, 
 
 Bodenheimer . . 
 
 . 0-0200 per cent 
 
 Hardt wine . . . 
 
 0-0184 .) 
 
 Hattenheimer . . 
 
 0-0096 ,, 
 
 Dromersheimer 
 
 . 0-0180 ,, 
 
 Rauenthaler . 
 
 . 0-0020 ,, 
 
IX.] 
 
 TANNIN. 
 
 263 
 
 The above ten wines were from the vintage 1865, and were 
 examined in the middle of August 1866. All were slightly- 
 turbid. Nos. I, 5, 6, 7, 9, and 10, were effervescing. In the 
 next fifteen wines the precipitate produced by the chlorine 
 was not collected, but its amount was simply judged of by 
 the eye. 
 
 Light claret . . 
 
 traces. 
 
 
 Sherry . . . 
 
 . none. 
 
 St. Elie . . . 
 
 strong 
 
 precipitate. 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 . traces. 
 
 Red Keffesia 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Elbe sherry . 
 
 . none. 
 
 Santorin . . . 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Cape port . . 
 
 . strong traces. 
 
 Lachryma Christi 
 
 do. 
 
 do. 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 . slight traces. 
 
 Natural sherry . 
 
 none. 
 
 
 Marsala . . 
 
 . very slight traces. 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 do. 
 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 . none. 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 do. 
 
 
 
 
 Ammonia and albuminous matters estimated by Wanklj'n 
 and Chapman's process : — 
 
 
 
 Albuminous matters. 
 
 Ammonia. 
 
 Ingelheimer (red) 
 
 
 • o'375° V^^ cerA. 
 
 0-0051 per cent 
 
 Port(l85i) 
 
 . 
 
 . 0-0888 
 
 00046 „ 
 
 Sherry (50 years in 
 
 bottle) 
 
 . 0-1807 
 
 0-0073 „ 
 
 Madeira (50 years 
 
 in bottle) 
 
 . 0-1581 
 
 0-0021 ,, 
 
 Niersteineri — 
 
 
 
 
 Before heating . 
 
 
 ■ 0-3550 „ 
 
 0-0021 „ 
 
 After heating . 
 
 
 . 0-2448 ,, 
 
 0-0022 ,, 
 
 Natural port 
 
 
 . 00527 
 
 0-0019 ,, 
 
 Port (1865) 
 
 
 . 0-1760 „ 
 
 TANNIN. 
 
 0-0012 „ 
 
 Many plants contain astringent principles, which give pre- 
 cipitates with solutions of gelatine and albumen, and produce 
 a deep bluish-black precipitate or coloration with persalts 
 of iron. The most widely diffused, and the best known of 
 these substances, is the tannin extracted from galls; and 
 hence all analogous substances have received the same name, 
 with the addition of surnames signalizing the plants from 
 which they are derived. They are all glucosides ; that is, 
 bodies which, when acted upon by suitable agents, absorb water 
 and break up into two new compounds, one of which is glucose. 
 
 1 This wine had become slightly effervescent in bottle, and some bottles of it 
 were heated for some time to 70° C, according to Pasteur's plan for the preserva- 
 tion of wine. 
 
264 TANNIN. [chap. 
 
 They are all characterized by their strong affinity for albu- 
 minous substances, with which they form combinations very 
 little liable to putrefaction ; hence their use for tanning. 
 
 The juice of most grapes is perfectly free from tannin ; the 
 skins and stalks, however, contain a considerable quantity of a 
 substance which, though not ordinary tannin, closely resembles 
 it in properties. For ordinary tannin, when heated with dilute 
 sulphuric acid, breaks up into glucose and gallic, acid ; it 
 suffiars the same change when exposed, in solution, to atmo- 
 spheric air. The tannin of grapes, under the like circumstances, 
 breaks up into glucose, and an acid which is not gallic 
 acid. 
 
 White wines, in the preparation of which the must is at 
 once separated from the murk, contain little tannin ; while 
 red wines, being allowed to ferment with the murk, are rich 
 in tannin, which imparts to them the well-known astringent 
 taste. The tannin of white wines is sometimes derived from 
 the oaken casks in which the wine is kept ; their colour, at 
 first very pale yellow, increases in depth in the course of 
 years. The tannin contained in them absorbs oxygen and 
 is converted into a yellow, or brown, humus-like substance, 
 which, though much less soluble in wine than the tannin, is 
 yet sufficiently so to impart a strong colour to it. Red 
 wines, on the other hand, gradually lose their dark colour 
 by the agency of the tannin they contain. In these wines 
 so much tannin is present that more of the humus-like sub- 
 stance is gradually formed than can remain dissolved ; it ig 
 thus thrown down as a precipitate, and carries the colouring 
 matter with it. 
 
 The presence of tannin in white wines may be detected by 
 the inky coloration produced on the addition of a persalt 
 of iron and acetate of potash. The latter reagent has to be 
 added, because in the presence of free tartaric or malic acid 
 persalts of iron do not readily yield the black coloration with 
 tannin ; the presence of acetic acid has much less influence. 
 Hence, if to a solution containing free tartaric or malic acid 
 we add a slight excess of acetate of potassium, tartrate or 
 malate of potassium is produced, and free acetic acid only 
 
ix.l EXTRACTIVES. 265 
 
 remains, which will not interfere with the iron test. The, 
 depth of colour produced gives at the same time some 
 indication of the amount of tannin present. The precipitate 
 produced by a solution of gelatine in white and red wines 
 may be collected and weighed, and will also give an idea of 
 the quantity of tannin present. 
 
 Tannin reduces copper salts like glucose, 3 '5 parts of tannin 
 having the same effect as five parts of glucose. Nessler has, 
 made use of this property for the approximate estimation of 
 the amount of tannin found in wines. He first estimates the 
 amount of copper solution reduced by the wine itself, then; 
 shakes the wine with animal charcoal, and again measures, 
 its effect on the copper test. The animal charcoal removes 
 the tannin, and the second experiment will show less reducing 
 action than the first. But, as Nessler himself has pointed out, 
 there are other substances contained in wine beside the tannin, 
 which reduce copper-salts, and are removed from solution by 
 animal charcoal. The process, therefore, shows too much 
 tannin. 
 
 As tannin exerts a preservative action on albuminous 
 substances, it is supposed to render red wines durable 
 in spite of the greater amount of albuminous substances 
 they contain. The addition of tannin to wines liable 
 to turn has also, on this account, frequently been proposed, 
 and seems to act beneficially. It would, however, be ad- 
 visable to use for this addition a tannin extracted from the 
 skins, stalks, or kernels of the grape itself, instead of the 
 ordinary tannin extracted from gall-nuts. 
 
 EXTRACTIVES. 
 If we subtract from the total solid constituents of wine all 
 those admitting of accurate estimation, such as the fixed 
 acids, sugar, some compound ethers, mineral constituents, and 
 perhaps the glycerine, there remains a certain amount of 
 matter, with the exact chemical characters of which we are 
 at present unacquainted. These substances are termed extrac- 
 tives or extractive matters. They are never absent from, 
 but on the contrary generally constitute the greater part of, 
 
266 MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. [CHAP. 
 
 the total solids in all genuine wines, which contain little or 
 no sugar. In all sweet wines, however, containing much 
 sugar, the greater part of the solids is sugar. On the other 
 hand, many adulterated or factitious wines contain little or 
 nothing of these extractives, and it is, therefore, frequently 
 of some importance to be able accurately to estimate the 
 total solids, for the purpose of distinguishing the genuine from 
 the factitious article. In genuine wines also the extractive 
 matter frequently stands in some relation to the value of the 
 wine, the higher class wines containing generally more extrac- 
 tive than the lower kinds. In this respect, however, wines of 
 the same origin and kind only can be compared : thus Rhine 
 wines with Rhine wines, Bordeaux with Bordeaux, &c. When 
 thus limited the rule frequently holds good, but is totally in- 
 applicable to the comparison of different sorts of wine. 
 
 MINERAL CONSTITUENTS. 
 If the dry residue of a wine is subjected for some time to a 
 dull red heat, the organic ingredients are consumed, and the 
 incombustible or mineral constituents remain behind in the 
 form of ash. This ash consists chiefly of potassic carbonate, 
 chloride, sulphate, and phosphate, sodic chloride, and calcic 
 phosphate, and carbonate, with traces of magnesia, iron, siUca, 
 and sometimes of alumina and manganese. Potassic and 
 calcic carbonates are not as such contained in the wine, but 
 are produced by the combustion of the tartrate or malate of 
 potassium or calcium. From the ash of pure natural wines, 
 carbonates and chlorides are scarcely ever absent ; sometimes, 
 however, if the wine has been subjected to much sulphuring, 
 it may contain an excess of sulphuric acid, which, during the 
 evaporation and incineration, drives out all the volatile acids ; 
 the ash, in such a case, consists exclusively of sulphates and 
 phosphates. The ash of wines made from must, to which 
 plaster of Paris had been added, scarcely ever contains 
 carbonates, and is very frequently free from chlorides, on 
 account of its containing an excess of sulphuric acid formed by 
 double decomposition from the calcic sulphate and potassic 
 bitartrate. 
 
IX.] ANALYSIS OF ASH. 267 
 
 ESTIMATION OF ASH. 
 20 c. c. wine are measured into a small shallow porcelain 
 or platinum crucible, and evaporated on a water-bath ; the 
 residue is dried in an air-bath at 120° C, and upwards ; and 
 finally, for some time, heated to a dull red heat over a gas- 
 burner, or in a muffle, until the combustible part is burned 
 off and a white or slightly grey ash is left. The crucible 
 is then allowed to cool under a desiccator and weighed. The 
 weight found multiplied by five gives the per cent, of ash. In 
 thus incinerating the dry residue of a wine, too great a heat 
 must be avoided, otherwise some of the salts present will fuse, 
 and by enclosing the carbon prevent its complete combustion. 
 If this has, nevertheless, happened, the imperfectly burned ash 
 should be extracted with distilled water, the residual carbon 
 burnt, and the slight amount of ash it leaves weighed. The 
 aqueous extract of the ash is evaporated, ignited, and also 
 weighed, and the two portions thus found are added together. 
 The amount and nature of the ash left by a wine is a very 
 valuable means for judging of its genuineness, and its exa- 
 mination should therefore never be neglected. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF ASH. 
 The ash, after having been weighed, is extracted with water, 
 and the insoluble portion, consisting chiefly of calcic phosphate, 
 is filtered off, washed, ignited, and weighed. In the aqueous 
 solution the alkalinity is determined by a standard solution of 
 decinormal sulphuric acid ; or, better, a slight excess of deci- 
 normal acid is added (2 or 3 c. c. of acid are generally sufficient), 
 the mixture boiled, and the excess of acid is then estimated 
 by a decinormal solution of soda. In order to be able to 
 ascertain the point of neutrality some tincture of logwood is 
 added, which changes from yellow, in the acid, to brown and 
 pink in the neutral and alkaline solution as previously de- 
 scribed. After this the phosphoric acid in combination with 
 potash or soda may be estimated in the same solution in the 
 following manner :— A few drops of acetic acid and acetate 
 of potassium having been added, the solution is heated to 
 
268 ANALYSIS OF ASH. [chap. 
 
 boiling, and a standard solution of uranic nitrate or acetate is 
 dropped in from a burette divided into tenths of c. c. until a 
 slight excess of uranium has been added, when the amount 
 of standard solution used gives at once a measure of the 
 phosphoric acid present. The point where sufficient uranium 
 has been added is determined as follows : — As long as any 
 appreciable quantity of phosphoric acid is in solution, each 
 drop of uranic nitrate added will produce a pale yellow pre- 
 cipitate of uranic phosphate, not a trace of uranium remaining 
 dissolved. As soon, however, as all phosphoric acid has been 
 precipitated, any further quantity of uranic nitrate added 
 remains in solution, and can be readily detected by ferro- 
 cyanide of potassium. For this purpose a number of drops 
 of ferrocyanide are put upon a white slab of porcelain ; and 
 as soon as the production of a precipitate, by the addition of 
 the uranic nitrate, can no longer be observed, a drop of the 
 mixture is taken out and added to one of the drops of ferro- 
 cyanide on the slab ; the slightest excess of uranium is then 
 indicated by the production of a brown coloration where 
 the two drops mingle. If no brown colour is produced, a 
 further quantity of uranic nitrate is carefully added, and 
 again a drop tested, and so on, until the brown colour is 
 observed ; the mixture should, during the experiment, be kept 
 near its boiling-point. Iron and alumina, which would neces- 
 sitate a modification of the process, are never contained in 
 wine in sufficient quantity to interfere sensibly with its 
 accuracy. For the successful working of this process it is, 
 however, essential that the only free acid present should be 
 acetic acid, and that, at the same time, no large amount of 
 an acetate should be present : the first, because uranic phos- 
 phate is soluble in other acids ; the second, because the 
 presence of much acetate prevents the production of the brown 
 coloration with ferrocyanides. 
 
 If, then, the solution to be tested is acid, the acid not being 
 acetic, it is necessary to neutralize it nearly with ammonia, 
 and then add only just enough sodic acetate to neutralize the 
 remaining free mineral acid ; or preferably to render it slightly 
 alkaline by ammonia, gently heat for some time to expel 
 
IX.] ANALYSIS OF ASH. 269 
 
 nearly all the excess of ammonia, and thfen_ acidify again by 
 a few drops of acetic acid. Should the solution be neutral, 
 a few drops of acetic acid are added ; if alkaline, the alkalinity 
 is nearly neutralized by hydrochloric or nitric acid, and finally 
 a small excess of acetic acid is added. If these precautions 
 are adopted, the process yields very accurate results. A con- 
 venient strength of the uranic solution is such that i c. c. of it 
 indicates O'OOS grm. phosphoric acid ; the strength must be 
 fixed by titration with pure sodic phosphate. 
 
 The part which was insoluble in water is (after having been 
 weighed) dissolved in a little hydrochloric acid ; the solution 
 is neutralized with ammonia, acidified with acetic acid, and the 
 phosphoric acid estimated as above. The quantity thus found, 
 calculated as calcic phosphate and subtracted from the total 
 insoluble part, leaves the calcic carbonate. The salts thus esti- 
 mated, namely, potassic carbonate and phosphate, and calcic 
 carbonate and phosphate, when subtracted from the total ash 
 found, leave the potassic and sodic sulphate and chloride. 
 Small traces of other substances may be neglected. Chlorides 
 are frequently absent from the ash, but should always be 
 searched for. If it is desired to estimate sulphuric acid and 
 chlorine, two portions of the ash are dissolved in nitric acid, and 
 in one the chlorine is precipitated by nitrate of silver, in the: 
 other the sulphuric acid by chloride of baryum ; the resulting 
 precipitates are collected on filters, dried, ignited, and weighed 
 with the usual precautions. lOO parts of chloride of silver 
 contain 2473 parts of chlorine, and 100 parts of baryum sul- 
 phate correspond to 42-49 parts of sulphuric acid. Potassium 
 and sodium must also be estimated in a separate portion as 
 follows : — The ash from 20 c. c. wine is boiled with water, 
 and a slight excess of baryum chloride and hydrate added 
 to the boiling solution. The precipitate produced is filtered 
 off ; to the filtrate an excess of ammonium carbonate added ; 
 the mixture is boiled, and once more filtered : both pre- 
 cipitates are well washed with boiling water. The second 
 filtrate is then evaporated to dryness, and the residue ignited 
 and weighed ; it consists of the chlorides of potassium and 
 sodium. The mixed chlorides are dissolved in water, to which 
 
270 
 
 ANALYSIS OF ASH. [CHAP. 
 
 platinic bichloride is added, and the whole evaporated to 
 dryness on a water-bath. The dry residue in the dish is ex- 
 tracted with spirit of about 8o per cent, strength, and the 
 insoluble double chloride of platinum and potassium, after 
 having been several times washed by decantation with the 
 spirit, is collected on a weighed filter, dried at iOO° C. and 
 weighed. lOO parts of the double chloride contain 28'i6 parts 
 of potassic chloride ; the amount of potassic chloride thus 
 found, subtracted from the mixed chlorides, leaves the sodic 
 chloride. lOO parts of potassic chloride contain 52'34 parts 
 of potassium; loo parts of sodic chloride, 39'3i parts of 
 sodium. Should the first part of the spirit, with which the 
 above double chloride of potassium and platinum is washed, 
 not be decidedly yellow, more platinic bichloride must be 
 added, and the mixture again evaporated to dryness. In pure 
 wines potassium is always the predominating alkali metal. 
 
 As stated above, chlorides are not unfrequently absent from 
 the ash of wine ; they are, however, always present in the 
 wine, and therefore, if it is desired that the amount of chlorine 
 present be estimated, it must be done in the wine itself For 
 this purpose from 20 c. c. to 50 c. c. of the wine are acidulated 
 with nitric acid, an excess of nitrate of silver is added, and 
 after twelve hours' standing the precipitated chloride of silver 
 is collected, washed, ignited, and weighed. The ignition 
 should be done in a porcelain crucible, the filter burnt 
 separately, and the ash added to the chloride; it is also 
 advisable to add a drop or two of strong nitric acid to the 
 ignited chloride and filter ash, and then a few drops of 
 hydrochloric acid, and to again dry, ignite, and weigh the 
 contents of the crucible. The fact that the ash of some wines 
 contains no chlorides, or a diminished amount of chlorides, 
 while the wine contained notable quantities of chlorides, is 
 sometimes due to the presence of sulphuric acid, which, 
 during evaporation, expels the hydrochloric acid ; some part 
 of the hydrochloric acid is, however, always lost during 
 evaporation, being expelled by the great excess of tartaric 
 and malic acids present, and the amount of chlorides found in 
 the ash is therefore never a correct measure of the hydro- 
 
IX.] ANALYSIS OF ASH. 271 
 
 chloric acid in the wine itself. In the majority of cases the 
 sulphuric acid found in the ash is the total quantity present 
 in the wine : this is always the case if the ash contains either 
 carbonates or chlorides ; sometimes, however, there is more 
 sulphuric acid in the wine than can be neutralized by the 
 bases present, and in such a case part of it is lost during 
 ignition ; the ash, in such cases, is free from carbonates and 
 chlorides. This is sometimes the case with wines which have 
 been impregnated with sulphurous acid by burning sulphur 
 in the cask. More frequently, however, this excess of sul- 
 phuric acid comes into the wine through the practice of 
 adding plaster of Paris to the must, which is general in all 
 southern countries. In such a case it is necessary to estimate 
 the sulphuric acid in the wine itself This is done as 
 follows : — 
 
 From 20 c. c. to 50 c. c. of the wine are acidulated with 
 hydrochloric acid heated nearly to boiling, and mixed with a 
 slight excess of baryum chloride ; after standing for twelve 
 or twenty-four hours, the resulting baryum sulphate is washed 
 with hot water, first by decantation, then on a filter on which 
 it is carefully collected ; the filter is then dried, ignited, 
 and the baryum sulphate weighed, the amount of ash left 
 by the filter itself being subtracted. 1 00 parts of baryum 
 sulphate correspond to 42'49 parts of sulphuric acid. 
 
 The other mineral constituents are generally present in 
 minute traces only. In the presence of iron the hydro- 
 chloric acid solution of the ash gives a blue precipitate with 
 ferrocyanide, or a blood-red coloration with sulphocyanide 
 of potassium. Manganese is generally detected by the green 
 colour it imparts to the ash ; the colour comes out much more 
 distinctly by fusing the ash with sodic carbonate and a little 
 potassic nitrate. Silica is detected by dissolving the ash in 
 hydrochloric acid, evaporating to dryness, and again taking 
 up in hydrochloric acid ; an insoluble gritty or sandy residue 
 is silica. Alumina is rarely present in any quantity ; if pre- 
 sent, it may be detected as follows : — The hydrochloric solu- 
 tion from which the silica has been separated is precipitated 
 with an excess of potassic hydrate ; the resulting precipitate 
 
272 TOTAL SOLID CONSTITUENTS. [chap. 
 
 of calcic phosphate is filtered off, the filtrate acidified with 
 hydrochloric acid and again neutralized with ammonia : a 
 precipitate is alumina or phosphate of alumina. Sometimes, 
 however, a trace of calcic phosphate is dissolved by the 
 potash, and this, being precipitated by the ammonia, may 
 be mistaken for alumina. It is, therefore, better to acidify 
 the potash solution slightly with acetic acid, and to precipitate 
 any lime present with oxalate of ammonia ; after allowing the 
 solution to stand for some time, the precipitated calcic oxalate 
 is filtered off, and ammonia added to the filtrate : the precipitate 
 produced is alumina or phosphate of alumina. (Alum is said to 
 be sometimes added to red wine, in order to heighten its colour.) 
 The amount of ash varies considerably in different classes 
 of wines : in pure natural wines it amounts generally to from 
 O'lS to 0'30 per cent. ; in wines which have been plastered the 
 ash rises to O'S per cent, and upwards ; and in all wines 
 in which the excessive acidity has been neutralized by an 
 alkali the ash may rise considerably above this amount. The 
 tables appended will give a fair indication of the amount of 
 ash found in the different classes of wines which have not been 
 subjected to adulteration. 
 
 TOTAL SOLID CONSTITUENTS. 
 Two methods are employed for the purpose of estimating 
 the total solids : in the one most generally in use the solids 
 are estimated directly ; in the other, indirectly. 
 
 First Method. — 20 c. c. of wine (or if the wine leaves much 
 residue, only 10 c. c.) are measured by means of a pipette, and 
 poured into a small platinum or porcelain evaporating dish, or 
 shallow crucible of known weight. The 
 wine is then evaporated on an open water- 
 bath, and the residue finally dried at a 
 temperature of 110° to 115° C. in an air- 
 bath. The drying should be continued 
 , until the residue ceases to lose weight when 
 
 Fig 48 — Flat porcelain i r l 
 
 crucible for evaporat kept for three Or four hours at the above 
 
 ing the 20 c. c. of wine. 
 
 temperature. The time required for this 
 is about twenty-four hours. The drying may be somewhat 
 
IX.] TOTAL SOLID CONSTITUENTS. 273 
 
 facilitated by placing the capsule holding the extract on 
 a sand-bath heated to about 1 10° C, and bringing the whole 
 under the receiver of an air-pump, in which there is also a 
 dish holding sulphuric acid, and exhausting. The weight 
 of the residue found multiplied by five (or ten) gives the 
 total solid constituents of the wine. Although this process is 
 usually looked upon as the most accurate, we have not found 
 this to be the case. It rests upon the assumption that the 
 solid constituents, of the wine may be dried at a temperature 
 sufficient to expel all the water and yet suffer no alteration 
 themselves, and the temperature of 110° or 115° is supposed 
 to answer this purpose. Careful experiments, however, have 
 shown us that the complicated mixture of substances, 
 constituting the solid residue left on evaporation, cannot 
 be dried even at a temperature of 100° C. without suffering 
 decomposition. This is proved by the great diminution of the 
 free fixed acid after the weight of the residue is found to be 
 constant in two successive weighings separated by an interval 
 of several hours' drying, and by the fact that only part of the 
 residue is soluble in water after the drying is completed, while 
 originally the whole was readily soluble. Such drying in a 
 steam or hot-water oven, moreover, takes a very long time, 
 sometimes an entire week. After drying at 110° or 115°, the 
 decomposition of some part of the residue is still more 
 manifest. The free fixed acid has almost entirely disap- 
 peared, and only a small part of the residue remains soluble 
 in water ; the greater part consists of a dark brown, semi- 
 charred mass. In wines containing not too much extract, 
 better results might, no doubt, be obtained, if the residue 
 were heated during not more than three or four hours to a 
 temperature of 100° or 105°, without continuing the drying 
 till the weight remains constant. With wine having much 
 extractive, there would, however, be great danger of over- 
 estimating the total solids. 
 
 It is then evident that the substance obtained by evaporating 
 and drying the residue, at iOO° or 115°, cannot be taken as 
 representing the solids of the wine. If the drying has not 
 been carried far enough, the residue will still contain water ; 
 
 T 
 
274 ESTIMATION OF [CHAP. 
 
 whilst if all the water be expelled, at ioo° to 115°, the residue 
 will have suffered so much decomposition as to be almost 
 valueless for a quantitative estimation. Our analyses will 
 show that, in a number of insta,nces of wines rich in sugar, 
 the total amount of solids found by this method falls below 
 the amount of sugar contained in them, and thus clearly ex- 
 hibit the inaccuracy of the method. 
 
 Second Method. — In the chapter on the chemistry of alcohol 
 we have minutely described Tabarie's method, in which the 
 alcoholic strength of a wine is calculated from the difference 
 between the specific gravity of the wine and that of the liquid 
 which remains after its alcohol has been expelled, and the 
 original bulk restored by distilled water. If the composition 
 of the solid residue were always the same, and if we could 
 by careful experiments fix the relation existing between the 
 amount of such matter present in an aqueous solution and 
 the specific gravity of the solution, nothing of course would 
 be more simple than finding the amount of the solid consti- 
 tuents of a wine by means of the specific gravity of the de- 
 alcoholized liquid. Unfortunately, as has been shown above, 
 it is not possible to obtain the solid constituents of a wine 
 at once dry and otherwise unaltered ; and it is, therefore, im- 
 possible to carry out the required experiments regarding the 
 relation between the amount of substance in solution and its 
 specific gravity. 
 
 Balling has, however, instituted a very careful inquiry 
 into this relation in regard to beer-wort, and has shown 
 that the specific gravity of solutions of malt extract is the 
 same as that of solutions of pure cane-sugar, if both 
 contain the same amount of substance in solution. We 
 may, therefore, substitute one for the other without appre- 
 ciable error. Now, extract of malt and extract of wine are 
 sufficiently similar to each other to justify us in assuming 
 that no great error will be committed by taking the specific 
 gravities of their solutions to be the same for equal per- 
 centages of extract. In other words, we may use the tables 
 showing the percentage of sugar in solutions of different specific 
 gravities, for the estimation of wine extract. Only the mineral 
 
IX.] TOTAL SOLID CONSTITUENTS. 275 
 
 constituents of the wine, i.e. those left in the ash, differ mate- 
 rially from sugar as regards the specific gravity of their solu- 
 tions ; for a given specific gravity they contain about twice as 
 much substance in solution as a sugar solution of the same 
 gravity. In estimating, therefore, the total solid constituents 
 of a wine by the specific gravity of the dealcoholized wine, it 
 is necessary to subtract from the percentage of extract thus 
 estimated the percentage of ash found in the same wine ; or, 
 if the amount of extract without the ash is required, twice the 
 percentage of ash has to be subtracted from the percentage 
 found, according to the specific gravity. In wines containing 
 but little ash, this correction is not very important ; but as in 
 some wines the ash amounts to 0'5 per cent, and upwards, a 
 serious error would be committed without it. 
 
 In our tabulated analyses we give for nearly each wine 
 the amount of total solid organic residue, the ash being 
 in each case deducted, as estimated by both the above 
 methods. With one exception, most likely occasioned by 
 insufficient drying of the residue, the amount of extract found 
 by the second method is larger than that found by the first : 
 this, however, is as it should be, for the extract found by the 
 second method includes not only the glycerine, driven off 
 during the drying, but the residue, when heated sufficiently 
 long to expel all the moisture, suffers a considerable amount 
 of decomposition besides, in consequence of which small 
 quantities of matter are volatilized. That the second method 
 has a greater claim to accuracy than the first, may also be 
 seen on reference to wines containing a considerable amount 
 of sugar. In such cases the first method often gives less total 
 solids than the wine contains sugar. 
 
 Thus in Marsala, the total dry residue, minus ash, 
 
 found by first method was 4'I32 per cent- 
 
 Second method 5 7^° > > 
 
 The sugar amounting to 47 ,, 
 
 In S panish Port extract, minus ash, found by first method 4 '632 , , 
 
 Second method 6-909 ,, 
 
 The sugar amounting to 5 '26 „ 
 
 And again in Lachryma Christi (Greek) extract, minus 
 
 ash, found by first method 24-262 „ 
 
 Second method 32-022 ,, 
 
 The sugar amounting to 26-784 „ 
 
 T 2 
 
16 
 
 TOTAL SOLID CONSTITUENTS. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 The same will be found in several other instances, while 
 in a still greater number the sugar and fixed acid together 
 amount to more than the total solids found, leaving no margin 
 at all for any of the other substances. The amounts found 
 by the second method, after all such substances have been 
 subtracted which admit of ready estimation, leave in all 
 cases a small excess, which may be accounted for by the 
 glycerine and extractive matters. The first method, then, 
 is in many instances clearly and demonstrably inaccurate, 
 and we may safely assume that it is so in all. 
 
 The second method has another great advantage over 
 the other ; it can be performed in less than one-tenth the 
 time, even if all the necessary weighing and evaporation are 
 performed merely with the view of estimating the extract ; 
 whilst if Tabarie's plan of estimating the alcohol be adopted, 
 the amount of extract is obtained by merely looking in the 
 table for the amount of sugar corresponding to the specific 
 gravity of the dealcoholized wine, and subtracting from the 
 amount of extract thus indicated the percentage of ash 
 previously estimated. It appears, then, to be in most cases 
 waste of time and trouble to estimate the solid constituents 
 of a wine by evaporating a given quantity and drying, and 
 weighing the residue left. 
 
 We may, in conclusion, give two examples. 
 
 Rauenthaler, 1859. (;^i5 Ohm.) 
 Specific gravity of dealcoholized wine. 
 Percentage of sugar corresponding to this . 
 Percentage of ash found .... 
 
 Total solid constituents .... 
 To find total solids, minus ash, subtract again 
 
 Leaves total soHds, minus ash . 
 
 SherrV, 1865. 
 Specific gravity of dealcoholized wine 
 Percentage of sugar corresponding to this . 
 Percentage of ash found .... 
 
 Total solids . . . . 
 
 Subtract ash ... . . 
 
 Total solids, minus a:h .... 
 
 looS-ioi 
 
 2041 
 0-170 
 
 1-871 
 0-170 
 
 1-701 per cent. 
 
 1017-56 
 4-467 
 o"SiS 
 
 3 "952 
 
 3 "43 7 per cent. 
 
IX.] INSTRUMENTS AND CHEMICALS. 277 
 
 INSTRUMENTS AND CHEMICAL REAGENTS NECESSARY FOR 
 THE PERFORMANCE OF AN ANALYSIS OF WINE. 
 
 Instruments. — Pipettes to deliver 25, 20, 10, 5, 3, and i c. c. ; 
 pipette holding 20 c. c. graduated into tenths ; two burettes 
 holding 50 c. c. divided into tenths, and one holding 25 c. c. 
 also divided into tenths. Measuring flask, with mark on 
 the neck of the flask, holding 500, 250, 200, lOO, and 50 c. c. 
 A number of flat porcelain crucibles, holding from 25 to 
 30 c. c. ; two platinum crucibles. Porcelain evaporating dishes 
 to hold 100 and 150 c. c. Beakers of thin glass, flasks, 
 glass rods, assay fla-sks (large and small) ; wash bottle ; 
 wide-mouthed stoppered bottles, holding 150 to 200 c. c. ; 
 one large ditto holding two bottles of wine. Various stills, 
 in one of which at least the tube of the condenser should 
 be of glass. Centigrade thermometer, Argand burners, 
 Bunsen burners, wire triangles, crucible tongs, desiccator, 
 air-bath with thermometer, retort stands, stands for burettes, 
 platinum wire, various-sized funnels, filtering-paper, white 
 porcelain slabs. Water-baths of several sizes, with covers, 
 having holes to suit the different sizes of crucibles and 
 evaporating dishes. Specific gravity bottle with thermometer, 
 holding from 25 to 50 c. c. A delicate chemical balance, 
 delicate saccharometer (best a Jellett's). Small sand-bath. 
 Spectroscope. For the preparation of the various standard 
 solutions, mixing cylinders, holding from one to two litres, 
 and graduated from 10 to 10 c. c. 
 
 Standard solutions. — Decinormal solution of potash or soda ; 
 decinormal sulphuric acid ; decinormal alcoholic solution of 
 potash ; uranium nitrate ; copper sulphate. 
 
 For prescriptions regulating the preparation of these 
 solutions we must refer the reader to works on volumetric 
 analysis. 
 
 Reagents. — Testing solutions of chloride of baryum, nitrate 
 of silver, perchloride of iron, acetate of potassium, caustic 
 potash, caustic baryta, carbonate of ammonium, ferrocyanide 
 of potassium, acetate of lead, bichloride of platinum, may 
 be; prepared by dissolving one part of the solid substances 
 
278 SYLLABUS OF ANALYSIS. [cHAP. 
 
 in from ten to twenty parts of water ; ammonia, sulphuric 
 acid, nitric acid, hydrochloric acid, by mixing one part of 
 the strongest acid or ammonia with three parts of water. 
 Solution of bichromate of potassium and sulphuric acid : 
 147 parts of bichromate, 220 parts of strong sulphuric acid 
 made up to 1400 c. c. solution. Caustic potash, permanganate 
 of potassium, carbonate of baryum, granulated zinc, animal 
 charcoal, carbonate of sodium, tannin. Alcohol, ether, 
 tincture of logwood, solution of litmus, red and blue test 
 papers, distilled water. 
 
 SYLLABUS OF ANALYSIS. 
 
 All the necessary apparatus, tests, &c. being ready and 
 in good order, — 
 
 1. Heat the water-baths to boiling, put on two platinum 
 and two porcelain crucibles, one evaporating dish of 400 c. c. 
 and one of 150 c. c. capacity. 
 
 2. Take two bottles of the wine to be analysed, mix in 
 large bottle, shake to expel carbonic acid, take temperature, 
 bring temperature to about IS°5. It is not, however, 
 advisable to work with the wine at a temperature below 
 the temperature of the room. 
 
 3. Measure with pipette 20 c. c. wine into each of the 
 following vessels : two porcelain and two platinum crucibles, 
 three beakers (Nos. i, 2, and 3), and two wide-mouthed 
 stoppered bottles (« and B). These quantities are to serve 
 for the determination of the fixed acid, total residue, ash 
 (two), total acid, chlorine, sulphuric acid, bitartrate of potas- 
 sium, total tartaric acid. 
 
 4. Measure with flasks 100 c. c. and 250 c. c. into the 
 above evaporating dishes on water-bath (dealcoholized wine 
 and fixed ether). 
 
 5. Measure 250 c. c. wine into still, add tannin and 
 potash, heat and collect distillate (alcoholic strength). 
 
 6. While distillation, &c. is going on, take specific gravity 
 of wine, estimate total acidity (beaker No. i), take beaker 
 No. 2 and No. 3, precipitate chlorine and sulphuric acid, 
 
IX.] SYLLABUS OF ANALYSIS. 
 
 279 
 
 set aside ; precipitate tartar and total tartaric acid in bottles 
 (a and b\ set aside. 
 
 7. When distillation is finished, make up distillate to 
 250 c. c, at original temperature of wine; clean out still, and 
 set 250 c. c. fresh wine distilling, without any addition (volatile 
 ethers) ; take specific gravity of first distillate. 
 
 8. When the contents of the four crucibles have been heated 
 sufficiently long on water-bath, place one of the porcelain 
 crucibles into air-bath heated to II0° C, till weight remains 
 constant, (total dry residue) ; estimate acidity of the residue 
 in another of the porcelain crucibles (fixed acids) ; heat the 
 two platinum crucibles to dull red heat, on Argand burner 
 or in muffle, till ash is white ; weigh ash in one crucible, 
 and use it for estimating alkalinity, for determining the 
 portion insoluble in water, and the phosphoric acid in this 
 insoluble portion ; the ash in the other crucible, which need 
 not for this purpose be burnt perfectly, use for estimating 
 total phosphoric acid. 
 
 g. When the 100 c. c. in small dish have evaporated to 
 about 40 c. c, transfer to 100 c. c. flask, cool and fill up to 
 100 c. c. with distilled water at original temperature ; take 
 specific gravity of this dealcoholized wine (used for cal- 
 culating total residue and alcoholic strength). 
 
 10. When 250 c. c. in large dish are evaporated to about 
 40 c. c, transfer to small still, render alkaline, &c. (fixed 
 ethers). 
 
 11. Take 100 c. c. wine, add 10 to 20 c. c. acetate of lead 
 solution according to colour, shake and filter through dry 
 filter, shake up with animal charcoal, filter ; estimate amount 
 of circular polarization in this filtrate (with very sweet wines 
 less than 100 c. c. may be taken). 
 
 12. Dilute filtrate (11) to the necessary extent (see 
 paragraph on Saccharometry, p. 227), and estimate sugar 
 in filtrate by copper test. 
 
 13. After twenty-four hours' standing collect precipitates 
 of chloride of silver and sulphate of baryum, from beakers 
 2 and 3 ; wash, dry, ignite, and weigh (total chlorine and 
 sulphuric acid). 
 
28o SYLLABUS OF ANALYSIS. [chap. 
 
 14. After forty-eight hours' standing, collect precipitates 
 in bottles {a and V), wash with ether alcohol, and estimate 
 acidity with decinormal soda (bitartrate of potassium and 
 total tartaric acid). 
 
 For necessary calculations and details see special chapters. 
 A complete analysis, according to the foregoing programme, 
 occupies several days. If a less complete analysis is 
 sufficient, time and trouble may of course be saved : but it 
 will always be well to keep in mind the following rule, viz., 
 first, get all implements and reagents ready ; and next, set all 
 those processes going which take the longest time for their 
 completion, during the greater part of which, however, they 
 do not require much attention. 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 28t 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 from the principal wlne-producing countries. 
 
 I 2 .; 4 S 6 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Specific 
 
 Specific 
 Gravity 
 
 
 O^y 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Price. 
 
 Gravit y 
 
 cf Wine, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 of Wine. 
 
 minus 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Alcohol. 
 
 
 
 German Wines — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 Leisten Riessling . . . 
 
 White 
 
 1858 
 
 das. per doz. 
 
 992-31 
 
 101004 
 
 
 2 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 »; 
 
 1859 
 
 ;^37 per ohm. 
 
 993-95 
 
 1009-55 
 
 
 3 
 
 Do, do. 
 
 
 >> 
 
 1862 
 
 19 IOJ-. „ 
 
 992-29 
 
 1009-09 
 
 
 4 
 
 Rauenthaler . 
 
 
 »j 
 
 1859 
 
 15 
 
 993-48 
 
 1008-10 
 
 
 5 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 1862 
 
 24 
 
 994-01 
 
 1008-17 
 
 
 6 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 )9 
 
 1862 
 
 30 
 
 983-84 
 
 1010-34 
 
 
 7 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 J» 
 
 1864 
 
 6 „ 
 
 997-32 
 
 1009-55 
 
 
 8 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 1865 
 
 24 
 
 991-26 
 
 1007-76 
 
 
 9 
 
 Ungsteiner 
 
 
 >» 
 
 1862 
 
 8 
 
 993-35 
 
 1007-81 
 
 
 lO 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 ^j 
 
 1862 
 
 12 
 
 992-82 
 
 1007-90 
 
 
 II 
 
 Hattenheimer . 
 
 
 ]» 
 
 1862 
 
 40 
 
 993-26 
 
 1009-96 
 
 
 12 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 M 
 
 1865 
 
 18 
 
 991 -60 
 
 100814 
 
 
 13 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 1862 
 
 15 
 
 994-19 
 
 1009-76 
 
 
 14 
 
 Steinberger Cabinet . . 
 
 jj 
 
 1857 
 
 60. 
 
 992-81 
 
 1008-82 
 
 
 IS 
 
 Do. do. . . . 
 
 JJ 
 
 1857. 
 
 50 
 
 993-22 
 
 1009-07 
 
 
 16 
 
 Forstet Traminer Auslese 
 
 H 
 
 1862 
 
 24 ., 
 
 992-60 
 
 IOOg-27 
 
 
 17 
 
 Forster Traminer . . 
 
 
 1862. 
 
 18 
 
 992-14 
 
 1008-57 
 
 
 18 
 
 Bodenheimer . . . 
 
 >J 
 
 1862 
 
 10 
 
 993-42 
 
 1008-23 
 
 
 19 
 
 Do 
 
 n 
 
 1865 
 
 12 
 
 993-48 
 
 IOII-58 
 
 
 20 
 
 Marcobntnner Auslese . 
 
 |} 
 
 1862, 
 
 45 
 
 994-82 
 
 1011-07 
 
 
 21 
 
 Essenheimer .... 
 
 
 1862 
 
 7 
 
 994-36 
 
 1007-45 
 
 
 22 
 
 Oestricher 
 
 
 1862 
 
 36 
 
 992-77 
 
 1009-36 
 
 
 23 
 
 Niersteiner .... 
 
 1' 
 
 
 5 Jo-f- .. 
 
 995-63 
 
 1008-21 
 
 
 24 
 
 Stein Riessling , . . 
 
 jj 
 
 1858 
 
 45- ,. 
 
 991-73 
 
 1008-94 
 
 
 25 
 
 Dromersheimer . . . 
 
 ,, 
 
 1865 
 
 9 
 
 994-69 
 
 IOII-76 
 
 
 26 
 
 Frbaclier ..... 
 
 
 1865 
 1865 
 
 15 >> 
 
 994 01 
 
 1010-79 
 
 
 27 
 
 JU.1 Utl^liv.. . • . . . 
 
 Graefenberger . . . 
 
 
 -20 „ 
 
 996-06 
 
 1012-44 
 
 
 28 
 
 Hardt Wine .... 
 
 )» 
 
 1865 
 
 ■ 7 ■ »j 
 
 992-30 
 
 1007-76 
 
 
 29 
 
 Jugenheimer . . . 
 
 
 '^^s 
 
 ° »» 
 
 995-14 
 
 1011-24 
 
 
 30 
 31 
 
 32 
 
 33 
 
 Kiedricher 
 
 
 1865 
 
 14 
 
 993-37 
 
 1010-58 
 
 
 Seltzener .... 
 
 j^ 
 
 1865 
 
 10 ,, 
 
 996-37 
 
 1014-58 
 
 
 Griinhauser .... 
 
 J, 
 
 1862 
 
 18 
 
 992-54 
 
 1008-60 
 
 
 Ingelheimer .... 
 
 Red 
 
 1862 
 
 10 
 
 996 60 
 
 1010-97 
 
 
 34 
 35 
 
 Zeltinger ... 
 
 White 
 
 1862 
 
 13 
 
 1000-24 
 
 1013-81 
 
 
 Dom Scharzhofberger . 
 
 )) 
 
 1862 
 
 30 
 
 993-13 
 
 1008-29 
 
 
 
 French Wines — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 36 
 
 38 
 39 
 40 
 
 41 
 
 Light Claret . 
 
 Red 
 
 
 
 I5i-. per doz. 
 
 995-58 
 
 1009-39 
 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 
 11 
 
 — 
 
 I2J-. . ,, 
 
 994-48 
 
 1008-14 
 
 
 Claret . . . 
 
 
 — 
 
 \2S. ,, 
 
 994-72 
 
 1008-91 
 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 i5f- .. 
 3"-f- .. 
 66.C. „ 
 
 995-00 
 995-08 
 994-73 
 
 1009-38 
 1008-87 
 1008-02 
 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 ■ ! ;; ! -- 
 
 
 Do. 
 
282 
 
 ANAL YSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 FROM the principal Wine-peoducing Countries — continued. 
 
 \ 2 8 9 lO II 12 13 
 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Specific Gravity 
 
 of 
 
 Distillate. 
 
 Found. 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated. 
 
 Percentage of 
 
 Alcohol by 
 
 weight in volume. 
 
 Accord- 
 ing to 
 Col. 8. 
 
 Accord- 
 ing to 
 Col. 9. 
 
 CVS 
 u V cd 
 S S o 
 
 If. Sm 
 
 .C aj o 
 
 Sio„S 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 10 
 II 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 16 
 
 17 
 18 
 
 19 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 25 
 26 
 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 
 36 
 37 
 38 
 39 
 40 
 
 41 
 
 German Wines — 
 
 Leisten Riessling . . . 
 Do. do. . . 
 
 Do. do. 
 Rauenthaler . . . 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Do. .... 
 Ung,«;teiner 
 
 Do 
 
 Hattenheimer . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Steinberger Cabinet . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 
 Forster Traminer Auslese 
 Forster Traminer . . 
 Bodenheimer .... 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Marcobriinner Auslese . 
 Essenheimer .... 
 
 Oestricher 
 
 Niersteiner 
 
 Stein Riessling. . . . 
 Dromersheimer . . . 
 
 Erbacher 
 
 Graefenberger .... 
 Hardt Wine .... 
 Jugenheimer .... 
 
 Kiedricher 
 
 Selzener 
 
 Griinliauser .... 
 
 Ingelheimer . 
 
 Zeltinger 
 
 Dom Scharzhof berger . 
 
 French Wines — 
 
 Light Claret . . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 Claret .... 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 981-95 
 983-92 
 983-08 
 984-99 
 
 985-49 
 983-02 
 987-49 
 982-93 
 985-17 
 984-46 
 983-04 
 982-97 
 983-93 
 983-41 
 984-26 
 983-00 
 983-30 
 984-49 
 981-36 
 
 983-17 
 986-18 
 982-59 
 987-07 
 982-35 
 983-42 
 982-87 
 983-21 
 984-72 
 
 983-37 
 982-71 
 981-50 
 
 983-50 
 985-26 
 986-39 
 984-26 
 
 985-93 
 
 985-23 
 985 :20 
 985-67 
 985-93 
 
 982-27 
 
 984-39 
 983-20 
 
 985-38 
 985-84 
 983-50 
 987-77 
 983-50 
 985-54 
 984-92 
 983-30 
 983-46 
 
 984-43 
 983-98 
 984-15 
 983-33 
 983-57 
 985-19 
 98 1 -go 
 
 983-75 
 986-88 
 
 983-41 
 987-42 
 982-78 
 982-93 
 983-22 
 983-62 
 
 984-54 
 983-90 
 
 983-39 
 981-79 
 
 983-93 
 985-63 
 986-43 
 
 984-85 
 
 986-19 
 986-34 
 985-81 
 985-60 
 986-20 
 986-71 
 
 "•43 
 9-82 
 
 10-55 
 9 06 
 8 70 
 
 10-60 
 
 7-35 
 
 10-69 
 
 9-03 
 
 9-44 
 10-58 
 10-65 
 
 9-81 
 10 -26 
 
 9-59 
 10-62 
 10-36 
 
 9-41 
 11-88 
 10-48 
 
 8-24 
 1082 
 
 7-63 
 11-15 
 10-24 
 10-74 
 1044 
 
 9-27 
 
 1029 
 
 10-87 
 
 11-77 
 
 1017 
 
 8-89 
 
 8-09 
 
 9-58 
 
 ;-4i 
 
 ,-92 
 
 '-59 
 1-41 
 
 9-45 
 
 1045 
 
 8-77 
 
 8-47 
 
 10-17 
 
 7-17 
 10-17 
 
 8-68 
 
 9-13 
 
 10-36 
 
 10-22 
 
 9-46 
 
 9-78 
 
 9-65 
 
 10-36 
 
 10-12 
 
 8-91 
 
 11-47 
 
 9-96 
 
 7-78 
 
 10-25 
 
 7-40 
 
 10-83 
 
 10-72 
 
 10-43 
 
 10-08 
 
 9-38 
 
 9-83 
 
 10-25 
 
 11-56 
 
 9-80 
 
 8-63 
 
 8-07 
 
 9-17 
 
 8-21 
 
 8-13 
 8-50 
 8-65 
 8-22 
 7-88 
 
 -22 
 
 — -37 
 -lO 
 
 — -29 
 
 — ■23 
 
 — -43 
 
 — ■18 
 
 — ■52 
 
 — -35 
 
 — ■31 
 -22 
 
 — -43 
 
 — -35 
 --48 
 
 -l--o6 
 —-26 
 —-24 
 
 —■50 
 —-41 
 
 —•52 
 --46 
 
 —•57 
 —■23 
 
 — ■32 
 -1- -48 
 
 — -31 
 --36 
 + 11 
 --46 
 —-62 
 — -21 
 
 —■37 
 —•26 
 
 — -02 
 — -41 
 
 -20 
 
 — -39 
 
 — -27 
 
 — ■37 
 --53 
 
 25-2 
 22 O 
 
 23-4 
 20 O 
 
 19-2 
 23-5 
 
 i6-2 
 
 23-6 
 19-7 
 
 20-9 
 
 23-5 
 23-6 
 
 22-0 
 22-9 
 
 21-1 
 
 23-5 
 23-0 
 20-8 
 26-3 
 23-2 
 18-2 
 24-2 
 16-8 
 24-8 
 22-9 
 
 23-7 
 23-2 
 20-4 
 23-0 
 24-1 
 
 26 o 
 22-7 
 
 19-5 
 17-8 
 
 21-1 
 
 18-6 
 18-0 
 19-6 
 19-6 
 18-9 
 18-6 
 
JX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 283 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 FROM THE principal Wine-producing COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 16 
 
 H 
 
 15 
 
 17 
 
 US 
 
 NAME. 
 
 "G 
 3 «.S 
 
 f^ 'rt is 
 
 r3 (CO 
 
 ^ "si 
 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 10 
 n 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 •4 
 
 15 
 16 
 
 17 
 18 
 
 •9 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 
 23 
 24 
 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 
 36 
 
 37 
 
 38 
 
 39 
 40 
 
 41 
 
 German Wines — ■ 
 
 Leisten Riessling . . . 
 
 Do. do. ... 
 
 Do. do. ... 
 
 Rauenthaler .... 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Do. .... 
 Ungsteiner 
 
 Do 
 
 Hattenheimer .... 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Steinberger Cabinet . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 
 Forster Traminer Auslese 
 Forster Traminer . . . 
 Bodenheimer .... 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 Marcobninner Auslese . 
 Essenheimer .... 
 Oestricher .... 
 Niersteiner .... 
 Stein Riessling . . . 
 Dromersheimer . . . 
 
 Erbacher 
 
 Graefenberger .... 
 Hardt Wine . . 
 Jugenheiraer .... 
 
 Kiedricher 
 
 Seltzener 
 
 Griinhauser .... 
 Ingelheimer .... 
 
 Zeltinger 
 
 Dom Scharzhofberger . 
 
 French Wines— 
 
 Light Claret . . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 Claret .... 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 ■480 
 
 ■438 
 ■420 
 •420 
 ■44s 
 ■453 
 ■67s 
 ■276 
 •442 
 •326 
 ■397 
 •384 
 ■502 
 
 ■431 
 •408 
 
 ■255 
 •288 
 
 •348 
 ■324 
 ■435 
 ■330 
 •423 
 •448 
 ■401 
 ■S16 
 •420 
 ■390 
 ■434 
 •375 
 •414 
 
 ■334 
 ■487 
 •465 
 
 ■593 
 •386 
 
 ■424 
 •435 
 •377 
 •338 
 ■371 
 ■3,23 
 
 •124 
 
 ■135 
 ■096 
 •114 
 •178 
 •138 
 •118 
 •114 
 ■099 
 •096 
 •132 
 •099 
 ■067 
 •093 
 ■124 
 ■129 
 •120 
 
 ■057 
 •085 
 ■144 
 •120 
 ■123 
 ■183 
 •108 
 ■138 
 •104 
 •118 
 •114 
 •105 
 
 ■057 
 •086 
 •036 
 
 •135 
 •087 
 •141 
 
 ■147 
 ■120 
 •215 
 ■222 
 •198 
 •180 
 
 •635 
 •607 
 ■540 
 •562 
 ■572 
 ■626 
 •823 
 
 ■432 
 •566 
 ■446 
 ■562 
 ■510 
 ■586 
 ■537 
 ■570 
 •416 
 ■438 
 •420 
 ■432 
 ■615 
 •480 
 
 ■577 
 •683 
 •536 
 ■690 
 ■552 
 ■540 
 ■577 
 •506 
 •486 
 ■444 
 •053 
 •624 
 ■701 
 ■563 
 
 ■0975 
 ■0675 
 •1312 
 •2550 
 ■0596 
 ■1387 
 
 •1473 
 ■1237 
 
 •1575 
 
 ■0545 
 ■0675 
 •0600 
 
 •1050 
 ■1575 
 
 •0900 
 •1125 
 
 ■1575 
 ■1538 
 ■2175 
 ■1575 
 
 608 
 
 •0675 
 
 =;8o 
 
 
 64s 
 
 ■1238 
 
 617 
 
 — 
 
 619 
 
 ■1650 
 
 548 
 
 ■1838 
 
284 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 FROM the principal Wine-producing Countries — continued. 
 
 I 2 l8 19 20 21 22 
 
 
 
 Dry residue 
 
 t5\ 
 
 
 
 •^Si 
 
 
 {tnintis Ash). 
 
 U GX) 
 
 1 
 
 s. A 
 
 
 NAME. 
 
 
 si's 
 
 ^1 
 
 (1. 
 
 s 1 
 
 Found 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated 
 from 
 
 
 
 
 Col. 7. 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 
 German Wines — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 Leisten Riessling . . . . 
 
 II37 
 
 2-097 
 
 + -960 
 
 1-328 
 
 _ 
 
 2 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 I -080 
 
 2 029 
 
 + -949 
 
 -228 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Do. do. . . . 
 
 1175 
 
 1-936 
 
 + -761 
 
 ■182 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 Rauenthaler . .... 
 
 I 015 
 
 I -701 
 
 + -686 
 
 •012 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 1-063 
 
 1-702 
 
 + -639 
 
 062 
 
 -059 
 
 6 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 . , 
 
 1-507 
 
 2-262 
 
 + -755 
 
 -067 
 
 •127 
 
 7 
 
 Do. .... 
 
 
 1-676 
 
 2-068 
 
 + -392 
 
 traces 
 
 •051 
 
 8 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 
 I 050 
 
 1-605 
 
 + -5SS 
 
 •119 
 
 ■150 
 
 9 
 
 Ungsteiner .... 
 
 
 -992 
 
 I 656 
 
 -t- -664 
 
 -no 
 
 
 10 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 1-242 
 
 r-649 
 
 ■f-407 
 
 -020 
 
 — 
 
 II 
 
 Hatteiiheimer . . 
 
 1-215 
 
 2105 
 
 + -890 
 
 none 
 
 — 
 
 12 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 I -208 
 
 1-779 
 
 + -571 
 
 traces 
 
 — 
 
 13 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 1-247 
 1-200 
 
 2-034 
 
 1753 
 1-899 
 
 + -787 
 
 -^-553 
 + •628 
 
 -017 
 
 -HI 
 
 none 
 
 ■023 
 
 14 
 
 Steinberger Cabinet . . . 
 
 
 •5 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 1-271 
 
 0752 
 
 16 
 
 Forster Traminer Auslese . 
 
 
 I-155 
 
 1-999 
 
 + •844 
 
 ■020 
 
 
 17 
 
 Forster Traminer . . 
 
 
 1-273 
 
 1-886 
 
 + -613 
 
 ■279 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 Bodenheimev 
 
 
 ■997 
 I -81 1 
 
 1-689 
 2. -604 
 
 2439 
 
 -<--693 
 + -793 
 + ■606 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 none 
 
 
 20 
 
 Macorbrunner Auslese 
 
 
 1-833 
 
 1-320 
 -499 
 
 
 21 
 
 Essenheimer 
 
 
 ■700 
 1-390 
 
 1-446 
 2 012 
 
 -4- -746 
 + ■620 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 Oestricher 
 
 
 -072 
 traces 
 
 
 23 
 
 Niersteiner . .... 
 
 
 1-099 
 •960 
 
 1-707 
 1-835 
 
 + -608 
 + •875 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 Stein Riessling. . 
 
 
 none 
 •182 
 
 
 25 
 
 Dromersheimer .... 
 
 
 1-899 
 1-429 
 
 2-577 
 2-353 
 
 + -678 
 + -924 
 
 
 
 26 
 
 Erbacher . . . . 
 
 
 1-057 
 -282 
 
 
 27 
 
 Graefenberger . 
 
 
 1-798 
 
 2-722 
 
 + -924 
 
 1-635 
 none 
 
 
 
 28 
 
 Hardt Wine 
 
 
 1-092 
 
 1-645 
 
 -1--553 
 
 
 
 29 
 
 Jugenheimer .... 
 
 
 1-825 
 
 2-502 
 
 + -677 
 
 1-079 
 
 . 
 
 30 
 
 Kiedricher 
 
 
 I -316 
 
 2-305 
 
 + -989 
 
 •185 
 
 
 
 3' 
 
 Seltzener 
 
 2-075 
 
 3-285 
 
 V I -210 
 
 •785 
 -132 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 Griinhauser ... 
 
 I -108 
 
 1-862 
 
 + -754 
 
 
 33 
 
 Ingelheimer ... . , . 
 
 I-815 
 
 2-332 
 
 + •517 
 
 -282 
 
 
 34 
 
 Zeltinger . . 
 
 2'530 
 
 3-220 
 
 + -690 
 
 -647 
 ■134 
 
 
 35 
 
 Dom Scharzhofberger . 
 
 •980 
 
 1-784 
 
 + •804 
 
 — 
 
 
 French Wines— 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 36 
 37 
 38 
 39 
 40 
 
 Light Claret 
 
 1-398 
 
 i-353 
 1-163 
 1-682 
 I 165 
 
 1-954 
 1-643 
 1-777 
 2-011 
 1-791 
 
 + •556 
 + -290 
 -f -614 
 
 + -329 
 ■f -626 
 
 •431 
 
 -"3 
 
 -154 
 -095 
 
 ■08s 
 
 Do. do. . 
 
 Claret . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 41 
 
 Do. 
 
 I -105 
 
 I -621 
 
 ■\- -516 
 
 — 
 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 285^ 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE PRINCIPAL WlNE-PRODUCING COVNTW.KS— continued. 
 __i f 23 24 25 26- 27 28 
 
 
 I 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 10 
 II 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 16 
 
 17 
 18 
 
 19 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 
 23 
 24 
 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 
 36 
 37 
 38 
 39 
 4P 
 41 
 
 NAME. 
 
 German Wines — 
 
 Leisten Riessling . . 
 Do. do. . 
 Do. do. . . . 
 Rauenthaler . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Ungsteiner 
 
 Do 
 
 Hattenheimer . , , 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Steinberger Cabinet . . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 Forster Traminer Auslese 
 Forster Trammer . . . 
 Bodenheimer 
 
 Do 
 
 Marcobrunner Auslese 
 
 Essenheimer 
 
 Oestricher 
 
 Niersteiner 
 
 Stein Riessling . . . . 
 Dromersheimer . . 
 
 Erbacher ... . . 
 
 Graefenberger . . . . 
 
 Hardt Wine 
 
 Jugenheimer 
 
 Kiedricher 
 
 Seltzener 
 
 Griinhauser 
 
 Ingelheimer 
 
 Zeltinger 
 
 Doni Scharzhof berger . . 
 
 French Wines- 
 
 Light Claret . . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 Claret . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 ■190 
 ■i8o 
 ■170 
 ■178 
 
 ■175 
 ■171 
 
 •175 
 ■155 
 ■172 
 •205 
 •136 
 •214 
 
 ■145 
 ■207 
 
 ■257 
 •137 
 •195 
 ■162 
 ■192 
 •215 
 
 ■175 
 ■181 
 •210 
 •194 
 •188 
 •181 
 ■15s 
 ■175 
 ■184 
 ■204 
 
 •153 
 •220 
 190 
 ■153 
 
 •208 
 ■202 
 
 ■235 
 •178 
 ■223 
 •200 
 
 ■007 
 ■007 
 ■007 
 •007 
 ■009 
 ■020 
 ■030 
 
 ■043 
 ■007 
 •051 
 ■017 
 
 ■055 
 ■003 
 ■013 
 •016 
 ■031 
 ■044 
 •058 
 •038 
 
 •QIO 
 
 •037 
 ■006 
 ■016 
 •007 
 •056 
 •044 
 ■033 
 ■033 
 ■044 
 
 ■044 
 •044 
 ■007 
 •007 
 007 
 •007 
 
 ■066 
 
 •045 
 •055 
 •041 
 •038 
 
 
 ■090 
 •075 
 •087 
 ■085 
 •087 
 
 •no 
 ■091 
 
 •077 
 
 •090 
 
 •050 
 
 •ICO- 
 
 ■058, 
 •997 
 •685 
 •084 
 
 •060 
 ■060 
 ■060 
 
 •058' 
 ■115 
 
 •072 
 
 •112 
 •071 
 
 •075 
 •052 
 ■071 
 •069 
 •058 
 •049 
 ■065 
 
 ■055 
 •090 
 
 ■075 
 
 •no 
 
 •083 
 
 •048 
 ■058 
 •045 
 ■051 
 •058 
 •063 
 
 
 •123 
 •108 
 •085 
 •078 
 •082 
 •044 
 •050 
 •054 
 ■058 
 ■070 
 •071 
 •222 
 •114 
 •046 
 •107 
 ■165 
 ■032 
 •076 
 •065 
 ■067 
 ■104 
 
 ■045 
 •094 
 •128 
 ■087 
 •062 
 •080 
 ■064 
 •082 
 •075 
 
 ■loS 
 •056 
 
 •138 
 ■073 
 ■063 
 
 •095 
 ■044 
 
 ■145 
 •072 
 •124 
 ■099 
 
 
 •032 
 ■020 
 ■040 
 •030 
 ■027 
 ■047 
 
 ■034 
 •025 
 •030 
 
 ■037 
 •042 
 •017 
 •047 
 
 •035 
 •028 
 •050 
 •025 
 •032 
 •018 
 
 ■035 
 ■020 
 
 •057 
 •025 
 ■030 
 ■014 
 •029 
 •024 
 •021 
 •024 
 •021 
 •018 
 ■035 
 "043 
 •046 
 
 ■035 
 
 •033 
 •030 
 
 •035 
 
 •033 
 •030 
 
 ■025 
 
 ■015 
 •020 
 •017 
 
 ■023 
 
 022 
 
 ■017 
 •035 
 
 ■025 
 
 020 
 ■020 
 •017 
 
 ■017 
 •020 
 ■037 
 
 ■030 
 
 •019 
 •015 
 •013 
 •025 
 
 •009 
 
 •010 
 
 •018 
 •005 
 
286 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 rCHAP. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines from 
 
 THE principal WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 29 
 
 30 
 
 32 
 
 33 
 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 4 
 5 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 
 9 
 lo 
 II 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 IS 
 16 
 
 17 
 18 
 
 19 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 
 23 
 24 
 
 25 
 
 26 
 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 
 36 
 37 
 38 
 39 
 40 
 
 41 
 
 name. 
 
 German Wines — 
 
 Leisten Riessling . 
 Do. do. 
 Do. do. 
 Rauen thaler 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 Ungsteiner 
 
 Do 
 Hattenheimer 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 Steinberger Cabinet 
 
 Do. do. . 
 
 Forster Traminer Auslese 
 Forster Traminer 
 Bodenheimer 
 
 Do. 
 Marcobrnnner Auslese 
 Essenheimer . 
 Oestricher 
 Niersteiner . 
 Stein Riessling 
 Dromersheimer 
 Erbacher . 
 Graefenberger 
 Hardt Wine , 
 Jugenheimer 
 Kiedricher . 
 Seltzener 
 Griinhauser . 
 Ingelheimer . 
 Zeltinger . . 
 Doin Scharzhofberger 
 
 French Wines- 
 
 Light Claret . . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 Claret .... 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Colour, 
 
 White 
 
 Red 
 
 1858 
 1859 
 1862 
 
 1859 
 1862 
 1862 
 1864 
 1865 
 1862 
 1862 
 1862 
 1865 
 1862 
 1857 
 1857 
 1862 
 1862 
 1862 
 1865 
 1862 
 1862 
 1862 
 
 1858 
 1865 
 1865 
 1865 
 1865 
 1865 
 1865 
 1865 
 1862 
 1862 
 1862 
 1862 
 
 Alcohol in 
 Ethers. 
 
 Fixed. 
 
 •0197 
 •0205 
 0208 
 •0199 
 
 •0175 
 0180 
 0219 
 
 ■020 1 
 •0225 
 ■0234 
 •QUO 
 
 ■0132 
 
 Volatile. 
 
 Total 
 
 Alcohol in 
 
 Ethers. 
 
 Found. 
 
 "0409 "0606 
 •0331 '0536 
 
 0254 
 ■0239 
 
 •0256 
 ■0184 
 •0285 
 
 •01 18 
 ■0209 
 
 ■0203 
 
 ■0206 
 ■0164 
 •0193 
 •0206 
 
 ■0144 
 •0180 
 
 ■01 9 1 
 •0166 
 
 •0253 
 ■0239 
 ■0294 
 ■0221 
 
 ■0230 
 
 •0262 
 •0156 
 ■0354 
 
 •0462 
 ■0438 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated. 
 
 0640 
 
 •0539 
 ■0507 
 ■0458 
 
 -^ £ « O - 
 
 ■0431 
 •0364 
 •0514 
 
 ■0454 
 "0464 
 •0528 
 ■0331 
 
 •0362 
 
 ■03 1 1 
 
 ■0285 
 ■0213 
 ■0212 
 •0144 
 
 ■0155 -0197 
 
 •0170 
 ■0235 
 
 •0276 
 ■0216 
 
 •0274 
 ■0563 
 
 •0581 
 •0470 
 •0531 
 
 ■0521 
 •0495 
 •0499 
 •0394 
 
 ■0359 
 
 •0576 
 ■0370 
 ■0556 
 
 •0514 
 
 •0491 
 
 •0377 
 ■0405 
 
 ■0350 
 
 ■0352 
 •0314 
 
 ■0415 
 
 •0467 
 •0382 
 
 0496 
 
 ■0487 
 ■0520 
 
 •0533 
 •0489 
 
 •0476 
 ■0506 
 •0528 
 
 •0500 
 •0429 
 
 947 
 
 99-8 
 91 o 
 957 
 
 74-1 
 77-5 
 967 
 
 87-1 
 
 937 
 
 105-8 
 
 84-0 
 
 I0O-8 
 
 74 'O 
 
 101 '2 
 1037 
 
 IOO-8 
 72-5 
 76-5 
 71 o 
 
 74-0 
 
 62-1 
 
 78-50 
 
 93-4 
 
IX.J 
 
 . ANAL YSES OF WINES. 
 
 287 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 FROM the Principal Wine-producing Countries — continued. 
 
 I 2 34567 
 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 49 
 5° 
 51 
 52 
 53 
 54 
 55 
 56 
 57 
 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 61 
 62 
 63 
 64 
 
 65 
 66 
 
 67 
 68 
 
 70 
 71 
 72 
 73 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 76 
 
 77 
 78 
 79 
 
 NAME. 
 
 French Wines — contd. 
 
 Claret 
 
 Sauternes 
 
 Haut Barsac .... 
 Roussillon 
 
 Do 
 
 Hermitage 
 
 Do 
 
 Burgundy 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Sparkling Burgundy 
 
 Beaujolais 
 
 Bouzy Cabinet . . . 
 
 Do. do 
 
 Sillery 
 
 Spanish Wines- 
 
 Spanish Port . 
 
 Spanish Chablis 
 
 Manzanilla 
 
 Montilla . . 
 
 Sherry . . 
 
 Do. (7 years old) 
 Do. (10 „ ) 
 Do. (20 „ ) 
 Do. (50 „ ) 
 Do. . . . 
 Do 
 
 Colour. Year. 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 (from Peru) 
 So-called Natural Sherry 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 Red 
 White 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 Red 
 
 White 
 
 Red 
 
 1865 
 1854 
 
 1857 
 
 Price. 
 
 Red 
 
 1865 
 
 48^-. per doz. 
 
 24f. „ 
 
 5o.f. „ 
 
 i6j. ,, 
 
 20J. „ 
 
 30-f- >. 
 
 \%s. „ 
 
 i8j. „ 
 
 \2S. „ 
 
 iSs. „ 
 
 34f- .; 
 
 I4.r. „ 
 
 62s. „ 
 
 62s. „ 
 
 36-^. „ 
 
 i8s. per doz. 
 
 Specific 
 Gravity 
 of Wine. 
 
 58J. per doz. 
 
 48J. per doz. 
 ^55 per butt. 
 
 70 ,. 
 
 45 >. 
 
 995-03 
 
 99377 
 997-01 
 1007-53 
 1003-27 
 995-38 
 989-53 
 994-14 
 992 84 
 991-36 
 
 989-34 
 1027-60 
 
 994-73 
 1020-31 
 1013-07 
 1010-99 
 
 Specific 
 Gravity 
 of Wine, 
 minus 
 Alcohol. 
 
 1010-63 
 1011-95 
 IOI2-17 
 1032-48 
 1027-52 
 I0I0-20 
 1006-34 
 1009 -50 
 1009-32 
 1007-61 
 1007-22 
 1040 -89 
 1009-10 
 1036-45 
 1030-50 
 1026-67 
 
 004-74 
 
 1029-97 
 
 991-60 
 
 1010-39 
 
 985-98 
 
 1009-98 
 
 986-55 
 
 1010-88 
 
 990-84 
 
 1017-56 
 
 997-93 
 
 1023-60 
 
 998-30 
 
 1024-64 
 
 996-24 
 
 I020-2I 
 
 997-25 
 
 ioi8-6i 
 
 994-09 
 
 1019-01 
 
 995-80 
 
 1022-62 
 
 993-43 
 
 101880 
 
 987-47 
 
 1014-87 
 
 988-31 
 
 1014-54 
 
 996-82 
 
 1018-25 
 
 986-01 
 
 1009-34 
 
 988-57 
 
 1010-62 
 
 992-34 
 
 1015-58 
 
 990-35 
 
 1010-95 
 
 990-82 
 
 1010-67 
 
 990-13 
 
 1010-53 
 
288 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 FROM THE principal Wine-producing COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 I 2 8 9 lo II 12 13 
 
 K e 
 to] 3 
 
 OH 
 
 42 
 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 49 
 5° 
 51 
 52 
 53 
 54 
 55 
 56 
 57 
 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 61 
 62 
 
 63 
 64 
 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 68 
 
 69 
 70 
 
 71 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 76 
 
 77 
 78 
 79 
 
 NAME. 
 
 French Wines — conid. 
 
 Claret 
 
 Sauternes 
 
 Haut Barsac .... 
 Roussillon 
 
 Do 
 
 Hermitage 
 
 Do 
 
 Burgundy 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Sparkling Burgundy . 
 
 Beaujolais 
 
 Bouzy Cabinet . . 
 
 Do. do 
 
 Sillery 
 
 Spanish Wines- 
 
 Spanish Port . 
 
 Spanish Chablis 
 
 Manzanilla . 
 
 Montilla . 
 
 Sherry . . . 
 
 Do. (7 years old) 
 Do. (10 „ ) 
 Do. (20 „ ) 
 Do. (50 „ ) 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. (from Peru) . . 
 
 So-called Natural Sherry 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 Specific Gravity 
 
 of 
 
 Distillate. 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated. 
 
 983-67 
 981-51 
 
 98473 
 
 97473 
 975 '32 
 984-64 
 982-63 
 984-60 
 983-40 
 
 983-17 
 981-87 
 
 985-59 
 985-07 
 983-66 
 982-19 
 983-25 
 
 974-63 
 981-05 
 976-03 
 976-13 
 
 97750 
 
 973-25 
 975-00 
 
 972-54 
 973-77 
 
 977-07 
 
 978-14 
 977-17 
 
 984-39 
 
 981 -82 
 984-84 
 975-05 
 975-75 
 985-18 
 983-19 
 984-66 
 983-50 
 98375 
 
 982 -09 
 986-11 
 985-63 
 983-85 
 982-57 
 984-32 
 
 974-77 
 981-21 
 976-00 
 975-67 
 973-40 
 974-33 
 973-69 
 976-03 
 97861 
 975-27 
 973-18 
 
 974-63 
 
 972 -60 
 
 97377 
 978-57 
 
 976-67 
 
 977-95 
 976-76 
 979-40 
 
 97915 
 979-60 
 
 Percentage of 
 
 Alcohol by 
 
 weight in volume. 
 
 Accord- Accord- 
 
 ing to 
 Col. 8. 
 
 10 02 
 11-77 
 
 923 
 17-05 
 16-58 
 
 9-31 
 10-93 
 
 9-33 
 10-26 
 10-48 
 11-51 
 8-65 
 9-00 
 10-04 
 H-25 
 IQ-40 
 
 17-13 
 1211 
 16-00 
 15-91 
 
 14-83 
 
 16-82 
 
 18-77 
 17-77 
 
 15-16 
 
 14-30 
 15-08 
 
 mg to 
 Col. 9. 
 
 £ ¥ M 
 
 9-49 
 11-55 
 
 9-20 
 16-81 
 i6-2i 
 
 8-93 
 
 10-46 
 
 9-30 
 
 10-17 
 
 9 95 
 
 11 -39 
 
 8-29 
 
 8-64 
 
 9-87 
 ii-oi 
 
 9-54 
 
 16-98 
 12 -oo 
 1 6 02 
 16-28 
 18-04 
 
 17-35 
 17-92 
 16 00 
 
 13-94 
 16-77 
 18-31 
 
 17-10 
 
 18-71 
 
 1777 
 13-96 
 
 15-48 
 
 14-46 
 15-42 
 13-34 
 1351 
 13-20 
 
 -■53 
 -22 
 
 --03 
 --24 
 -37 
 •38 
 -47 
 ■03 
 -09 
 
 ■53 
 •12 
 
 -36 
 -36 
 -17 
 -24 
 -86 
 
 — 15 
 — -II 
 
 H- -02 
 + -37 
 
 -f--io 
 
 -I- -28 
 
 —-06 
 — -00 
 
 + -32 
 
 + -16 
 + -34 
 
 
 22-4 
 26-0 
 20-4 
 37-2 
 36-2 
 20 6 
 24-2 
 20 -6 
 22-9 
 23-3 
 25-3 
 191 
 198 
 22-3 
 24-9 
 23-2 
 
 38-1 
 26-7 
 
 35-6 
 35-3 
 39-8 
 38-7 
 39-5 
 35-6 
 32-9 
 366 
 40-1 
 
 37-1 
 
 41-7 
 39-2 
 308 
 
 33-5 
 
 31-8 
 33-4 
 29-4 
 29-9 
 29-2 
 
IX.J 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 289 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE PRINCIPAL WlNE-PRODUCING CovtiTeCO-S — continued. 
 
 16 
 
 14 
 
 IS 
 
 17 
 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 49 
 50 
 SI 
 
 S2 
 
 53 
 54 
 55 
 56 
 57 
 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 61 
 62 
 
 63 
 64 
 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 68 
 
 69 
 70 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 76 
 
 77 
 78 
 79 
 
 NAME. 
 
 French Wines — contd. 
 
 Claret 
 
 Sautemes . . . . 
 Haut Barsac . . . 
 Roussillon . . . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Hennitage . . . . 
 
 Do. . •. . . 
 Burgundy . . . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Sparkling Burgundy 
 Beaujolais . . . . 
 Bouzy Cabinet . . 
 Do. do. . . . 
 Sillery 
 
 Spanish Wines — 
 
 Spanish Port .... 
 
 Spanish Chablis . . . 
 
 Manzanilla 
 
 Montilla . . . . 
 
 Sherry 
 
 Do. (7 years old) 
 Do. (10 „ ) . 
 Do. (20 ,, ) 
 Do. (50 „ ) . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. from Peru . . 
 
 So-called Natural Sherry 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 
 •424 
 
 •447 
 •61 5 
 •311 
 ■288 
 •383. 
 •371. 
 ■386 
 ■266 
 •405 
 ■340 
 •514 
 ■443 
 ■431 
 •441 
 
 •360. 
 
 •285 
 ■213 
 
 •25s 
 •277 
 ■263 
 •308 
 •281 
 
 ■371 
 ■420 
 ■270 
 •293 
 
 •255 
 
 •258 
 ■192 
 •278 
 
 •240 
 
 •289 
 ■298 
 •308 
 •300 
 ■308 
 
 .■S S-. 
 
 3 .-2 J 
 
 > o^ 
 
 S^ 
 
 •1.74 
 •184 
 
 •183 
 ■117 
 •171 
 •16s 
 •180 
 ■225 
 ■1.86 
 
 ■147 
 •149 
 ■114 
 •189 
 ■090 
 •123 
 ■Q90 
 
 ■114 
 •130 
 ■097 
 ■097 
 
 ■153 
 •i68 
 •162 
 
 ■141 
 
 •165 
 
 •153 
 ■132 
 
 •135 
 
 ■138 
 •142 
 ■216 
 
 •116 
 
 ■126 
 •064 
 ■162 
 •162 
 •156 
 
 H 13a 
 
 •641 
 •649 
 
 •843 
 ■460 
 
 ■491 
 ■626 
 •596 
 
 ■668 
 
 •499 
 ■589 
 
 ■495 
 •656 
 ■679 
 ■543 
 ■592 
 ■472 
 
 •427 
 ■356 
 •362 
 
 ■383 
 ■454 
 ■518 
 •484 
 •548 
 •626 
 ■461 
 •458 
 
 ■424 
 
 •420 
 •372 
 •548 
 
 ■384 
 
 •446 
 
 ■379 
 •510 
 
 ■503 
 ■503 
 
 ■187s 
 •0195 
 
 •0525 
 •0225 
 •1050 
 •1500 
 •2025 
 •1050 
 
 ■1785 
 •0600 
 •2125 
 •1425 
 ■1650 
 •0860 
 ■1690 
 
 ■0600 
 none 
 
 ■0225 
 ■0262 
 ■0150 
 •0150 
 
 •0187 
 •0150 
 
290 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE principal WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 I 2 18 19 20 21 22 
 
 W)3 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Dry residue 
 {jnijtus Ash). 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated 
 from 
 
 Col. 7. 
 
 t i '" 
 
 o 
 
 5 fe 
 
 42 
 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 49 
 50 
 
 SI 
 52 
 53 
 54 
 55 
 56 
 57 
 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 6i 
 62 
 
 63 
 64 
 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 68 
 
 69 
 70 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 76 
 
 77 
 78 
 79 
 
 French Wines — contd. 
 
 Claret 
 
 Sauternes ... 
 Haut Barsac .... 
 Roussillon 
 
 Do 
 
 Hermitage 
 
 Do 
 
 Burgundy 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 Sparkling Burgundy . . 
 
 Beaujolais 
 
 Bouzy Cabinet .... 
 
 Do. do 
 
 Sillery 
 
 Spanish Wines — 
 
 .Spanish Port 
 
 Spanish Chablis 
 
 Manzanilla 
 
 Montilla . 
 
 Sherry 
 
 Do. (7 years old) 
 Do. (10 „ ) 
 Do. (20 „ ) 
 Do. {50 „ ) 
 Do. . . 
 Do 
 
 Do. . 
 Do. . . 
 Do. ... 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. (from Peru) 
 
 So-called Natural Sherry 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 I '613 
 1-656 
 2-142 
 5-368 
 
 4 '473 
 1-275 
 
 -668 
 I -160 
 1-460 
 
 •965 
 
 ■855 
 7-250 
 1-445 
 5-366 
 
 4-633 
 •940 
 i-ioi 
 1-240 
 2-260 
 3-423 
 3-913 
 2-716 
 2-824 
 3-058 
 3-575 
 
 2-855 
 
 3-217* 
 3-135* 
 
 -787 
 
 -872 
 1-906 
 
 2-235 
 
 2 -530 
 2-627 
 7-600 
 7-247 
 1-980 
 I -219 
 
 1-957 
 1-936 
 I-616 
 1-478 
 10-280 
 
 1-866 
 9-070 
 
 7-595 
 6-549 
 
 6-909 
 1-523 
 1-556 
 1-662 
 3-437 
 4-939 
 5-281 
 3-878 
 3-588 
 3-864 
 4-663 
 
 3-865 
 
 3-772* 
 3-689^ 
 3-745 
 
 1-275 
 
 1-569 
 3-126 
 1-85, 
 
 '-959 
 1-641 
 
 -t -622 
 + -874 
 + -485 
 -(-2-232 
 -f2-774 
 
 -^ -705 
 
 + -551 
 
 + -797 
 
 + -476 
 
 + -651 
 
 + -623 
 + 3-030 
 
 -t- 421 
 
 + 3-704 
 
 + 2-276 
 + -940 
 
 + -455 
 + -422 
 + 1-177 
 + 1-516 
 + 1-368 
 + 1-162 
 
 + -764 
 + -806 
 + 1 -088 
 
 + I-OIO 
 
 + -555 
 + -554 
 
 + -488 
 
 + -697 
 + 1 -220 
 
 •204 
 
 5-100 
 
 4-350 
 ■060 
 ■077 
 
 -143 
 •no 
 -069 
 ■119 
 
 8-600 
 -084 
 
 7-78 
 
 6-90 
 
 6-o5 
 
 5-260 
 -039 
 none 
 none 
 i-8io 
 2-970 
 3-510 
 1-960 
 -560 
 
 2-565 
 3-165 
 
 •630 
 
 •420 
 
 ■370 
 
 none 
 
 none 
 
 •107 
 
 •539 
 none 
 none 
 
 -068 
 
 -052 
 •105 
 
 Including ash, 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 291 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE PRINCIPAL WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 25 
 
 26 
 
 27 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •s 
 
 sl 
 
 So^ 
 
 ^■s 
 
 -^ 
 
 
 f3 
 
 IP 
 
 III 
 
 ||-S 
 ■f'"-'.s 
 
 n 
 
 
 
 
 ^^d 
 
 t 
 
 fc-'- 
 
 •225 
 
 •066 
 
 ■055 
 
 ■105 
 
 •030 
 
 •010 
 
 •246 
 
 •019 
 
 ■084 
 
 •119 
 
 — 
 
 •030 
 
 ■226 
 
 •on 
 
 •078 
 
 •137 
 
 •025 
 
 — 
 
 •3bS 
 
 ■031 
 
 •095 
 
 •229 
 
 •030 
 
 ■020 
 
 ■400 
 
 ■04.'; 
 
 •100 
 
 ■255 
 
 ■025 
 
 ■015 
 
 •298 
 
 ■04s 
 
 •093 
 
 •160 
 
 ■050 
 
 •020 
 
 •193 
 
 •043 
 
 ■060 
 
 •089 
 
 ■025 
 
 •008 
 
 ■220 
 
 ■012 
 
 •108 
 
 •100 
 
 •028 
 
 ■028 
 
 ■208 
 
 •03.'; 
 
 ■075 
 
 ■098 
 
 •033 
 
 ■023 
 
 ■150 
 
 •035 
 
 •070 
 
 •046 
 
 ■023 
 
 •008 
 
 ■170 
 
 ■014 
 
 ■09s 
 
 •061 
 
 ■050 
 
 •013 
 
 •125 
 
 •024 
 
 •04s 
 
 ■056 
 
 •oio 
 
 — 
 
 •215 
 
 •048 
 
 •070 
 
 •025 
 
 — 
 
 •035 
 
 •148 
 
 •014 
 
 •060 
 
 •074 
 
 ■0225 
 
 ■010 
 
 no 
 
 ■019 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 •134 
 
 ■043 
 
 
 
 
 
 •38s 
 
 •026 
 
 •100 
 
 ■259 
 
 •038 
 
 ■018 
 
 ■550 
 
 none 
 
 •071 
 
 •480 
 
 •018 
 
 — 
 
 •482 
 
 „ 
 
 •064 
 
 •415 
 
 •02 s 
 
 -s- 
 
 ■544 
 
 ■005 
 
 ■078 
 
 •466 
 
 ■035 
 
 — 
 
 •515 
 
 •010 
 
 •080 
 
 ■425 
 
 ■020 
 
 ■008 
 
 •550 
 
 •018 
 
 ■095 
 
 ■441 
 
 •02 s 
 
 •018 
 
 ■513 
 
 •007 
 
 ■088 
 
 •418 
 
 •013 
 
 ■013 
 
 •638 
 
 •007 
 
 •095 
 
 ■536 
 
 ■045 
 
 ■045 
 
 "575 
 
 •on 
 
 ■096 
 
 ■474 
 
 ■014 
 
 — 
 
 ■450 
 
 ■007 
 
 •080 
 
 ■363 
 
 •018 
 
 •008 
 
 •560 
 
 •024 
 
 ■075 
 
 ■461 
 
 •020 
 
 •008 
 
 ■434 
 
 •on 
 
 •100 
 
 •323 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 •450 
 
 ■021 
 
 ■090 
 
 ■234 
 
 — 
 
 •020 
 
 ■541 
 
 •002 
 
 •087 
 
 ■452 
 
 •046 
 
 — 
 
 ■557 
 
 •007 
 
 •094 
 
 ■456 
 
 •023 
 
 — 
 
 ■453 
 
 ■027 
 
 •061 
 
 •3&5 
 
 ■020 
 
 — 
 
 •458 
 
 •010 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 •368 
 
 •007 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 •512 
 
 •003 
 
 ~ 
 
 ~ 
 
 
 
 42 
 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 49 
 50 
 51 
 52 
 53 
 54 
 55 
 56 
 57 
 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 61 
 62 
 
 63 
 64 
 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 68 
 
 69 
 70 
 71 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 76 
 
 77 
 78 
 79 
 
 French Wines — contd. 
 
 Claret 
 
 Sauternes 
 
 Haut Barsac 
 
 Roussillon 
 
 Do 
 
 Hermitage 
 
 Do 
 
 Burgundy . . . . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Sparkling Burgundy . . 
 
 Beaujolais 
 
 Bouzy Cabinet . . . . 
 
 Do. do , 
 
 Sillery 
 
 Spanish Wines- 
 
 Spanish Port 
 
 Spanish Chablis 
 
 Manzanilla . . 
 
 Montilla . . . 
 
 Sherry .... 
 
 Do. (7 years old) 
 
 Do. (10 „ ) 
 
 Do. (20 ,, ) 
 
 Do. (50 „ ) 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. from Peru . 
 
 So-called Natural Sherry 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 do 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 U 2 
 
292 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines from 
 THE principal Wine-producing COUNTRIES — continiied. 
 
 29 
 
 30 31 
 
 32 
 
 33 
 
 boa 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Alcohol in 
 Ethers. 
 
 Fixed. Volatile. 
 
 Total 
 
 Alcohol in 
 
 Ethers. 
 
 Found. 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated. 
 
 
 V o ^ 
 
 .SS 
 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 
 47 
 48 
 
 49 
 
 50 
 51 
 -52 
 53 
 54 
 55 
 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 61 
 62 
 
 63 
 64 
 
 65 
 66 
 67 
 68 
 
 69 
 70 
 
 71 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 76 
 
 77 
 78 
 79 
 
 French Wines — contd. 
 
 Claret . . 
 Sauternes 
 Haut Barsac 
 Roussillon 
 
 Do. 
 Hermitage 
 
 Do. 
 Burgundy 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Sparkling Burgundy 
 Beaujolais . . 
 Bouzy Cabinet . , 
 
 Spanish Wines — 
 
 Spanish Port 
 Spanish Chablis 
 Manzanilla . . 
 Montilla . . . 
 Sherry .... 
 Do. (7 years old) 
 Do. (10 „ ) 
 Do. (20 „ ) 
 Do. (SO „ ) 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 Red 
 
 White 
 
 Red 
 
 Red 
 
 1865 
 1854 
 
 ■0186 
 
 ■0248 
 
 "0434 
 
 1857 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. from Peru . . , 
 
 So-called Natural Sherry 
 
 1865 
 i860 
 1857 
 1847 
 
 •0223 
 •0175 
 ■0159 
 •0186 
 •0190 
 ■0144 
 •0138 
 
 •0144 
 ■0278 
 
 •0231 
 
 •0173 
 ■0290 
 ■0262 
 ■0350 
 
 ■0377 
 •0206 
 •0294 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 •0297 
 •0216 
 •0281 
 ■0244 
 ■0184 
 •0189 
 ■0225 
 
 •0170 
 •0313 
 
 ■0267 
 
 •0285 
 •0391 
 ■0469 
 •0442 
 •0385 
 ■0216 
 ■0354 
 
 •0520 
 •0391 
 •0440 
 •0430 
 ■0374 
 •0333 
 ■0363 
 
 •0314 
 0591 
 
 ■0498 
 
 •0458 
 •o68i 
 
 ■0731 
 ■0792 
 •0762 
 •0422 
 ■0648 
 
 ■0581 
 
 •0684 
 ■0533 
 •0571 
 •0570 
 ■0460 
 
 ■0551 
 •0605 
 
 ■0551 
 ■0498 
 
 •0613 
 
 •0681 
 ■0749 
 ■0722 
 •0738 
 ■0799 
 •0639 
 ■069s 
 
 74-6 
 
 75-9 
 73-4 
 76-9 
 
 75-5 
 8i-3 
 
 60 '2 
 60 'O 
 
 56-9 
 116-5 
 
 81-3 
 
 67-2 
 908 
 
 I01'2 
 107 '2 
 
 95 '3 
 66-1 
 
 93 "2 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 293 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE principal WINE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 SB 
 
 be 3 
 
 Pi 
 
 80 
 81 
 82 
 
 83 
 84 
 
 8s 
 
 86 
 
 87 
 88 
 89 
 90 
 
 91 
 92 
 
 93 
 94 
 95 
 96 
 
 97 
 98 
 99 
 
 100 
 
 lOI 
 I02 
 103 
 104 
 
 loS 
 106 
 107 
 108 
 109 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Sicilian Wines- 
 
 Marsala 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 Bronte 
 
 Portuguese Wines— 
 
 Port 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 So-called Natural Port . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 
 Cheap Port .... 
 
 Hungarian Wines— 
 
 Carlowitz 
 
 Do 
 
 Erlau 
 
 Menes 
 
 Kobanyai 
 
 Rust 
 
 Badacsonyi . . . 
 Villanyie Muscat . . 
 
 Do. do. . . . 
 Tokay 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Pale 
 
 Brown 
 
 Pale 
 
 Gold 
 
 Gold 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 
 Year. 
 
 1851 
 
 1853 
 1851 
 1864 
 1861 
 1854 
 1851 
 1842 
 
 Price, 
 
 i8j-. per doz. 
 zos. ,, 
 20J. „ 
 
 20J-. 
 
 i6j. 
 
 \ts. per doz. 
 
 2XS. 
 
 28J. 
 
 i6j. 
 
 24s. 
 28s. 
 
 42s. 
 
 Specific 
 Gravity 
 of Wine. 
 
 995-98 
 1001-34 
 994-11 
 999-65 
 996-65 
 997-91 
 
 1007-45 
 
 998-73 
 997-11 
 
 1002-49 
 
 1008-43 
 999-24 
 
 1004-76 
 987-18 
 997-42 
 994-98 
 986-95 
 997-16 
 995-19 
 
 1003 -92 
 
 991-83 
 992-07 
 991-99 
 994-27 
 991-67 
 990-57 
 992-05 
 989 -42 
 992-88 
 993-09 
 
 Specific 
 Gravity 
 
 of Wine, 
 minus 
 
 Alcohol. 
 
 1020-46 
 1025-36 
 1018-56 
 1024-25 
 1020-83 
 I02I-2I 
 
 1032-13 
 1025-86 
 1023-34 
 1027-14 
 1033-19 
 1025 -01 
 1031-40 
 1015-28 
 1022-59 
 1017-42 
 1013-25 
 1018-46 
 1010-24 
 1027-53 
 
 1008 
 1009 
 1008 
 lOIO 
 1006 
 1007 
 1008 
 1008 
 1007 
 1008 
 
294 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE PRINCIPAL WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 13 
 
 Pi 
 
 Specific Gravity 
 
 of 
 
 Distillate. 
 
 Percentage of 
 
 Alcohol by 
 
 weight in volume, 
 
 Found. 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated. 
 
 Accord- 
 ing to 
 Col. 8. 
 
 Accord- 
 ing to 
 Col. 9. 
 
 & u « 
 
 •^ aj ft 
 
 80 
 81 
 82 
 83 
 84 
 
 85 
 
 86 
 87 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 
 92 
 
 93 
 94 
 95 
 96 
 
 97 
 98 
 99 
 
 100 
 loi 
 102 
 
 103 
 104 
 105 
 106 
 107 
 loS 
 109 
 
 Sicilian Wines — 
 
 Marsala ... 
 
 Do. . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do. . . 
 Bronte .... 
 
 Portuguese Wines- 
 
 Port . 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 So-called Natural Port 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 Cheap Port 
 
 Hungarian Wines- 
 
 Carlowitz . 
 
 Do 
 
 Krlaii 
 
 Menes . 
 
 Kobanyai .... 
 
 Rust 
 
 Badacsonyi. . 
 Villanyie Muscat . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 Tokay . . . . 
 
 975-53 
 975-68 
 
 975-41 
 975-43 
 975-64 
 
 975-02 
 972-51 
 973-73 
 
 974-04 
 973-25 
 971-86 
 974-66 
 977-27 
 
 983-98 
 
 983-20 
 982-33 
 982-48 
 983-03 
 984-54 
 985-52 
 983-24 
 981-27 
 
 984-53 
 9S4-61 
 
 975-52 
 975-98 
 975-45 
 975-40 
 975-82 
 976-70 
 
 975-32 
 972-87 
 973-78 
 975-35 
 975 -24 
 974-23 
 973-36 
 971-90 
 974-82 
 977-56 
 973-71 
 978-70 
 984-95 
 975-39 
 
 983-21 
 982-99 
 983-18 
 983-39 
 984-87 
 982-98 
 983-73 
 981-35 
 984-90 
 
 985-09 
 
 16-39 
 16-27 
 16-50 
 16-46 
 16-30 
 
 16-82 
 18-81 
 17-84 
 
 17-58 
 18-06 
 19-24 
 17-08 
 15-01 
 
 9-78 
 
 10-45 
 
 11-16 
 
 11-05 
 
 10-60 
 
 9-38 
 
 II 05 
 
 10-30 
 
 11-96 
 
 9-39 
 
 9-34 
 
 16 -41 
 16-03 
 16-55 
 16-48 
 ?6-i6 
 15-46 
 
 16-58 
 18-50 
 17-80 
 16-54 
 16-63 
 
 17-47 
 18-00 
 19-20 
 16-96 
 14-78 
 17-76 
 
 13-87 
 
 9-09 
 
 16-48 
 
 10-44 
 
 9-63 
 10-46 
 10-26 
 
 9-15 
 10-68 
 
 9-85 
 
 1 1 -89 
 
 9-14 
 
 9-00 
 
 + 02 
 
 —-24 
 
 + -05 
 + -02 
 — -14 
 
 --24 
 
 -■31 
 -04 
 
 -II 
 
 •06 
 -04 
 
 ■12 
 •23 
 
 -69 
 
 ■-53 
 ■-59 
 •34 
 •23 
 
 ■•37 
 
 -45 
 
 -07 
 ■25 
 -•34 
 
 36-3 
 35-9 
 
 36-2 
 36-2 
 
 35-9 
 
 335 
 
 361 
 41-4 
 38-0 
 36-6 
 
 36-4 
 38-2 
 401 
 42-5 
 37-7 
 33-2 
 39-4 
 30-7 
 
 21-9 
 
 36-4 
 
 23-2 
 24-7 
 24-3 
 23-5 
 20-7 
 19-2 
 23-2 
 26-4 
 20-8 
 20 -6 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 295 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE principal WINE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES— COKtmueii, 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 boa 
 ft 
 
 NAME. 
 
 
 
 -a rt-n 
 
 
 
 Uy,^ 
 
 ree 
 Ac 
 cula 
 taric 
 
 
 - 'n^ 
 
 & ■$< 
 
 •246 
 
 •107 
 
 ■293 
 
 ■093 
 
 •254 
 
 ■136 
 
 •22s 
 
 •138 
 
 •188 
 
 •III 
 
 •390 
 
 •126 
 
 •289 
 
 ■087 
 
 •263 
 
 •108 
 
 •274 
 
 ■114 
 
 •188 
 
 •174 
 
 •248 
 
 •120 
 
 ■259 
 
 ■123 
 
 •308 
 
 •084 
 
 ■259 
 
 •129 
 
 •354 
 
 ■107 
 
 ■278 
 
 •186 
 
 •266 
 
 •108 
 
 •238 
 
 •210 
 
 •46s 
 
 •162 
 
 •268 
 
 ■119 
 
 ■395 
 
 •183 
 
 ■356 
 
 ■249 
 
 ■439 
 
 ■165 
 
 •355 
 
 •169 
 
 ■448 
 
 •116 
 
 ■315 
 
 •281 
 
 •399 
 
 •159 
 
 ■349 
 
 ■192 
 
 ■533 
 
 •147 
 
 ■474 
 
 •180 
 
 
 ■3< 
 
 80 
 81 
 82 
 83 
 
 84 
 
 8s 
 
 86 
 
 87 
 
 90 
 91 
 92 
 93 
 94 
 95 
 96 
 
 97 
 98 
 
 99 
 
 100 
 
 lOI 
 
 102 
 103 
 104 
 
 IDS 
 
 106 
 107 
 io8 
 109 
 
 Sicilian Wines- 
 
 Marsala .... 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Bronte . . . 
 
 Portuguese Wines- 
 
 Port 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 So-called Natural Port 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 Cheap Port . . . 
 
 Hungarian Wines — 
 
 Carlowitz 
 
 Do 
 
 Erlau 
 
 Menes 
 
 Kobanyai . . . . 
 
 Rust ... 
 
 Badacsonyi 
 
 Villanyie Muscat . . . 
 
 Do. do. . . . 
 Tokay 
 
 ■379 
 ■409 
 
 ■436 
 •398 
 •326 
 
 •548 
 
 •398 
 ■398 
 •416 
 •405 
 ■398 
 •413 
 ■413 
 ■420 
 •488 
 •510 
 ■401 
 
 •484 
 •668 
 •414 
 
 ■630 
 •668 
 
 •645 
 •570 
 
 •594 
 •665 
 
 •599 
 ■589 
 •716 
 •699 
 
 •0150 
 none 
 ■0997 
 
 •0075 
 •0075 
 •0150 
 
 ■0225 
 •0150 
 •0225 
 •0150 
 •0150 
 
 •240 
 
 •0480 
 ■0600 
 •3000 
 •08 1 o 
 ■0930 
 •0300 
 
 •0675 
 •0375 
 
296 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE PRINCIPAL WlNE-PRODUClNG COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 Dry residue 
 
 d. 
 
 
 
 %. >^ 
 
 
 (ininits Ash). 
 
 Sa.3 
 
 1 . 
 
 « d 
 
 v. s 
 
 NAME. 
 
 
 v ^ 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 MP 
 
 
 Found. 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated 
 from 
 
 
 u p 
 
 
 
 
 Col. 7. 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 
 Sicilian Wines — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 Marsala .... .... 
 
 3-354 
 
 4-572 
 
 + I-2I8 
 
 1-093 
 
 _ 
 
 81 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 
 
 4'i32 
 
 5-780 
 
 + 1648 
 
 4-700 
 
 — 
 
 82 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 
 
 2822 
 
 4-050 
 
 + 1 -228 
 
 1-050 
 
 
 
 83 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 
 
 3-918 
 
 S-581 
 
 + 1 -663 
 
 3-760 
 
 
 
 84 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 
 . . . 
 
 3633 
 
 4-865 
 
 + 1-232 
 
 3-240 
 
 — 
 
 85 
 
 Bronte 
 
 Portuguese Wines — 
 
 3-995 
 
 4-504 
 
 + -509 
 
 3-160 
 
 
 86 
 
 Port 
 
 .';'';28 
 
 7-625 
 6-151 
 
 5-731 
 
 + 2 -097 
 + 1-758 
 ■1- I -743 
 
 6-346 
 4-662 
 4-039 
 
 
 87 
 88 
 
 Do 
 
 4-393 
 3-988 
 
 
 Do . 
 
 !Z 
 
 89 
 
 Do 
 
 4-880 
 
 6-129 
 
 + I -249 
 
 4-170 
 
 — 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 92 
 
 Do 
 
 6-385 
 4-598 
 5-688 
 
 8-oi6 
 
 + 1-631 
 + I -382 
 + I -865 
 
 
 
 Do. . 
 
 5-982 
 7-553 
 
 3-840 
 4-331 
 
 
 Do 
 
 z 
 
 93 
 
 Do. . , 
 
 2-458 
 
 3-398 
 
 + -940 
 
 I 050 
 
 
 
 94 
 
 Do 
 
 3-710 
 
 5-260 
 
 + 1-550 
 
 2-284 
 
 _ 
 
 95 
 
 Do 
 
 2-855 
 
 3-992 
 
 + I-I37 
 
 I -591 
 
 
 
 96 
 
 97 
 
 Do 
 
 2-090 
 
 2-936 
 3-630 
 
 + -846 
 
 
 
 So-called Natural Port .... 
 
 I -010 
 2-640 
 
 
 98 
 
 Do. do. . ... 
 
 1-648 
 
 2-096 
 
 + -448, 
 
 -178 
 
 
 
 99 
 
 Cheap Port 
 
 4-780 
 
 6-406 
 
 + I -626 
 
 
 
 
 Hungarian Wines — 
 
 4-220 
 
 
 100 
 
 Carlowitz 
 
 1-909 
 
 I-8l2 
 
 - -097 
 
 none 
 
 
 lOI 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 
 
 1-373 
 
 I-9I8 
 
 + -545 
 
 ■147 
 
 -075 
 
 102 
 
 Erlau .... 
 
 
 
 1-238 
 
 1-793 
 
 + -555 
 
 none 
 
 •169 
 
 103 
 
 Menes .... 
 
 
 
 2-190 
 
 2-393 
 
 + •203 
 
 •228 
 
 
 104 
 
 Kobanyai . 
 
 
 
 1-202 
 
 I -35s 
 
 + -153 
 
 -066 
 
 
 106 
 
 Rust . . . 
 Badacsonyi . . 
 
 
 
 1-089 
 I -008 
 
 1-548 
 1-683 
 
 + -459 
 + -675 
 + •689 
 
 -089 
 
 — 
 
 107 
 
 Villanyie Muscat. 
 
 
 
 -946 
 
 I -63s 
 
 -185 
 
 
 108 
 109 
 
 Do. do. . 
 Tokay . . . 
 
 
 
 -970 
 ■943 
 
 I -661 
 1-640 
 
 + -691 
 + -697 
 
 ■062 
 •025 
 
 -047 
 -047 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 297 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines- 
 FROM the principal Wine-producing Covm-VKiEA— continued. 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 25 
 
 26 
 
 27 
 
 28 
 
 p 
 
 NAME. 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 
 1|| 
 
 S 
 
 1 
 11 
 
 as 
 
 III 
 
 Ph 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 tfj 
 
 "1 
 
 1 
 Pi 
 
 isl 
 
 
 Sicilian Wines— 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 Marsala 
 
 ■324 
 
 ■007 
 
 091 
 
 •226 
 
 •023 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 
 
 
 ■356 
 
 ■014 
 
 •116 
 
 •226 
 
 •023 
 
 — 
 
 82 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 ■338 
 
 ■006 
 
 •107 
 
 •221 
 
 •035 
 
 — 
 
 83 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 
 
 
 •313 
 
 •OSS 
 
 \o65 
 
 •192 
 
 •023 
 
 •QIO 
 
 84 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 ■225 
 
 •021 
 
 •050 
 
 •154 
 
 •018 
 
 •Qib 
 
 8s 
 
 Bronte 
 
 
 . 
 
 •455 
 
 ■000 
 
 ■095 
 
 •360 
 
 •020 
 
 •017 
 
 
 Portuguese Wines— 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 86 
 
 Port 
 
 •213 
 
 ■045 
 
 •072 
 
 •096 
 
 ■035 
 
 •010 
 
 87 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 ■23s 
 
 •062 
 
 •080 
 
 •093 
 
 •025 
 
 •018 
 
 88 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •120 
 
 •038 
 
 •068 
 
 •CIS 
 
 •033 
 
 •010 
 
 89 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •410 
 
 •117 
 
 •135 
 
 '158 
 
 •033 
 
 •01 s 
 
 90 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■250 
 
 •097 
 
 "060 
 
 •093 
 
 ' ^250 
 
 •150 
 
 91 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■210 
 
 •062 
 
 ■048 
 
 •100 
 
 ■ ^030 
 
 •005 
 
 92 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■248 
 
 •048 
 
 •06s 
 
 •134 
 
 ■03s 
 
 •oi8 
 
 93 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •240 
 
 ■062 
 
 •048- 
 
 ■134 
 
 ' ^029 
 
 •008 
 
 94 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •258 
 
 ' -066 
 
 •055 
 
 •137 
 
 ■033 
 
 •013 
 
 95 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •220 
 
 •069 
 
 ■050 
 
 •lOI 
 
 •029 
 
 •008 
 
 96 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •210 
 
 ■069 
 
 •045 
 
 •086 
 
 •033 
 
 •010 
 
 97 
 
 So-called Natural Port . 
 
 
 •535 
 
 •124 
 
 ■050 
 
 ■361 
 
 traces 
 
 traces 
 
 98 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 •245 
 
 •008 
 
 •095 
 
 •143 
 
 •025 
 
 •013 
 
 99 
 
 Cheap Port . . . 
 Hungarian Wines — 
 
 •321 
 
 •062 
 
 •120 
 
 •138 
 
 ■030 
 
 ■023 
 
 100 
 
 Carlowitz 
 
 
 iSi 
 
 ■047 
 
 ■077 
 
 •057 
 
 ■03s 
 
 — 
 
 lOI 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 
 
 18s 
 
 •041 
 
 •053 
 
 •091 
 
 •035 
 
 •015 
 
 102 
 
 Erlau .... 
 
 
 
 214 
 
 •052 
 
 •078 
 
 •084 
 
 •030 
 
 
 103 
 
 Menes . . . 
 
 
 
 
 188 
 
 •075 
 
 •051 
 
 •062 
 
 •040 
 
 — 
 
 104 
 
 Kobanyai . . 
 
 
 
 
 178 
 
 ■033 
 
 •062 
 
 •683 
 
 •025 
 
 — 
 
 105 
 
 Rust .... 
 
 
 
 
 195 
 
 ■033 
 
 •078 
 
 •083 
 
 •038 
 
 — 
 
 106 
 
 Badacsonyi . . 
 
 
 
 
 207 
 
 •OSS 
 
 •090 
 
 •062 
 
 •032 
 
 — 
 
 107 
 
 Villanyie Muscat 
 
 
 
 194 
 
 ■005 
 
 •no 
 
 -•079 
 
 •040 
 
 — 
 
 108 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 1 
 
 
 175 
 
 •014 
 
 •080 
 
 ■081 
 
 •025 
 
 •020 
 
 109 
 
 Tokay .... 
 
 
 ■188 
 
 •012 
 
 •085 
 
 ■090 
 
 •025 
 
 •015 
 
298 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines from 
 
 THE PRINCIPAL WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 29 
 
 30 31 32 
 
 33 
 
 Cm 3 
 
 80 
 
 8i 
 
 82 
 83 
 84 
 
 8s 
 
 86 
 
 87 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 92 
 
 93 
 94 
 95 
 96 
 
 97 
 98 
 
 99 
 
 100 
 
 lOI 
 
 102 
 103 
 104 
 los 
 106 
 107 
 108 
 109 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Alcohol in 
 Ethers. 
 
 Total 
 
 Fixed. Volatile. 
 
 lotai 
 Alcohol in 
 Ethers. 3 g. 
 
 Found. 
 
 Calcu- ll^d 
 lated. ^g.S^ 
 
 
 O rt 
 
 •"3 M 
 U fa 
 
 .S8 
 
 Sicilian Wines — 
 
 Marsala .... 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Bronte . . . 
 
 Portuguese Wines- 
 
 Port 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 So-called Natural Port 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 Cheap Port .... 
 
 Hungarian Wines— 
 
 Carlowitz 
 
 Do. 
 Erlau. . 
 Menes 
 Kobanyai 
 Rust . . 
 Badacsonyi 
 Villanyie Muscat 
 
 Do. do. 
 Tokay . 
 
 Pale 
 
 Brown 
 
 Pale 
 
 Gold 
 
 ■0333 
 ■0256 
 
 ■0216 
 0189 
 
 1851 
 
 1853 
 1851 
 1864 
 1861 
 
 1854 
 1851 
 1842 
 
 •0289 
 
 ■0335 
 ■0336 
 
 •0318 
 •0302 
 •0261 
 •0351 
 •0250 
 •0283 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 
 ■0199 
 
 ■01 5 1 
 
 •0186 
 •0162 
 
 ■0202 
 •0202 
 ■0235 
 
 •0294 
 0128 
 ■0216 
 0220 
 •0304 
 •0331 
 
 ■0152 
 
 ■0358 
 
 ■0271 
 •0273 
 
 •0549 0550 
 ■0445 '0447 
 
 •0491 
 ■0537 
 •0571 
 
 ■0612 
 •0430 
 ■0477 
 •0572 
 
 ■0554 
 •0614 
 
 ■0351 
 
 •0509 
 
 ■0457 
 ■0435 
 
 0560 
 ■0619 
 0619 
 
 •0605 
 •0620 
 ■0669 
 ■0697 
 •0650 
 ■059s 
 
 ■0598 
 
 •0656 
 
 "0613 
 ■0596 
 
 99-8 
 99-3 
 
 876 
 86-6 
 923 
 
 loi-i 
 69-4 
 71-4 
 84-9 
 85-2 
 
 103-2 
 
 58-6" 
 
 77-6 
 
 74-5 
 73 "o 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 299 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE PRINCIPAL WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 bo p 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Price. 
 
 Specific 
 Gravity 
 of Wine. 
 
 Specific 
 Gravity 
 of Wine, 
 minus 
 Alcohol. 
 
 no 
 
 III 
 112 
 
 "3 
 
 114 
 
 "5 
 116 
 117 
 
 118 
 119 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 123 
 124 
 
 125 
 
 126 
 
 127 
 
 128 
 
 129 
 
 130 
 
 131 
 132 
 
 133 
 
 Greek Wines — 
 
 Keffesia . . 
 Keffesia . . . 
 Patras .... 
 Thiera .... 
 St. Elie . . . 
 Lachrymse Christi 
 Santorin . . 
 Patras . . 
 
 Cape Wines — 
 
 Imitation Sherry 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 Do. do. 
 Imitation Port 
 
 Do. do. 
 Imitation Madeira 
 
 Atlantic Islands — 
 
 Madeira . . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Elbe Wines — 
 Imitation Sherry . 
 
 Australian Wines — 
 
 Red 
 
 White 
 
 Gold 
 White 
 
 Dark 
 White 
 
 Adelaide 
 
 White 
 Red 
 
 24r. per doz. 
 
 20J. 
 
 20s. 
 
 36.?. 
 
 42^. 
 24?. 
 
 iSj. per doz. 
 12s. , , 
 
 22J. ,, 
 
 22^. ,, 
 
 18^. „ 
 
 i8j. „ 
 
 !36j. per doz. 
 60J. , , 
 
 1 5 J. per doz. 
 
 996 '06 
 99274 
 994'56 
 993'i7 
 992-25 
 
 1113-53 
 99474 
 1052-33 
 
 995 '23 
 995-84 
 999-85 
 1011-95 
 1013-52 
 991-03 
 
 997-10 
 993 '94 
 994'i5 
 
 993-02 
 
 98505 
 994-01 
 
 994-33 
 
 993-40 
 
 IOI8-86 
 
 ion -82 
 1009-62 
 ion -02 
 1013-86 
 1010-99 
 1126-84 
 1013-48 
 1069-27 
 
 1024-49 
 1018-87 
 102018 
 1024-29 
 1036-83 
 1038-09 
 1024-74 
 
 1022 -90 
 1018-95. 
 1019-59 
 
 1016-72 
 
 1006-95 
 1012-12 
 1010-43 
 1009-96 
 1045-00 
 
300 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 FROM THE principal Wine-producing COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 II 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 Specific Gravity 
 
 Percentage of 
 
 
 .S -J 
 
 t ^ 
 
 
 of 
 
 Alcohol by 
 
 *^ 
 
 S s'S 
 
 11 
 
 name. 
 
 Distillate. 
 
 weight in volume. 
 
 IP 
 
 L S 0. 
 g.SP. 
 
 
 
 
 
 l« 
 
 
 Found. 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated. 
 
 Accord- 
 ing to 
 Col. 8. 
 
 Accord- 
 ing to 
 Col 9. 
 
 d 
 
 
 Greek Wines — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 no 
 
 Keffesia 
 
 983-60 
 
 984-24 
 
 10-09 
 
 9-59 
 
 —•50 
 
 22-5 
 
 III 
 
 Keffesia 
 
 982-95 
 
 983-12 
 
 10-67 
 
 ro-52 
 
 —-IS 
 
 23-6 
 
 112 
 
 Patras 
 
 983-10 
 
 983-54 
 
 10-54 
 
 1015 
 
 —■39 
 
 234 
 
 H3 
 
 Thiera 
 
 979-04 
 
 979-30 
 
 13-60 
 
 13-41 
 
 — -19 
 
 30-0 
 
 114 
 
 St. Elie 
 
 980 9 1 
 
 981 -25 
 
 12-20 
 
 11-95 
 
 —-25 
 
 27-1 
 
 "5 
 
 LachrymEE Christi . . . 
 
 986-45 
 
 986-69 
 
 8-06 
 
 7-91 
 
 —-'5 
 
 17-8 
 
 116 
 
 Santorin 
 
 981-01 
 
 981-26 
 
 I2-l6 
 
 11-97 
 
 — -19 
 
 27-0 
 
 117 
 
 Patras 
 
 Cape Wines — 
 
 982-04 
 
 983-06 
 
 11-39 
 
 10-61 
 
 -•78 
 
 32-1 
 
 118 
 
 Imitation .Sherry .... 
 
 975-39 
 
 975-62 
 
 I6-5I 
 
 16-32 
 
 —•19 
 
 36-6 
 
 119 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 
 
 975-57 
 
 976-36 
 
 16-36 
 
 15-72 
 
 --64 
 
 36-1 
 
 120 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 
 
 975-39 
 
 975-66 
 
 16-50 
 
 16-28 
 
 — -22 
 
 36-6 
 
 121 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 
 
 975-35 
 
 975-56 
 
 16-54 
 
 16-38 
 
 — -16 
 
 36-6 
 
 122 
 
 Imitation Port 
 
 
 
 
 974-76 
 
 975-12 
 
 1710 
 
 16-75 
 
 — •35 
 
 37-7 
 
 123 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 
 
 975-31 
 
 975-43 
 
 16-57 
 
 16-47 
 
 — -ID 
 
 36-7 
 
 124 
 
 Imitation Madeira 
 
 
 
 966-22 
 
 966 -29 
 
 22-36 
 
 22-31 
 
 — -05 
 
 51-7 
 
 
 Atlantic Islands— 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 125 
 
 Madeira 
 
 973-94 
 
 974-20 
 
 17-66 
 
 17-44 
 
 -22 
 
 39-1 
 
 126 
 
 Do 
 
 974-44 
 
 974-99 
 
 17-30 
 
 16-81 
 
 — -49 
 
 38-2 
 
 127 
 
 Do 
 
 Elbe Wines — 
 
 974-11 
 
 974-56 
 
 17-53 
 
 17-16 
 
 — -37 
 
 38-7 
 
 128 
 
 Imitation Sherry .... 
 Australian Wines— 
 
 976-40 
 
 976-30 
 
 15-70 
 
 15-80 
 
 -1--IO 
 
 34-9 
 
 129 
 
 1 
 
 977-87 
 
 970-10 
 
 14-52 
 
 14-34 
 
 — -18 
 
 32-2 
 
 130 
 
 
 980-90 
 
 981-89 
 
 12-22 
 
 11-48 
 
 — -74 
 
 268 
 
 131 
 
 Adelaide 
 
 983-09 
 
 983-90 
 
 10-62 
 
 10-03 
 
 — -59 
 
 23-5 
 
 132 
 
 : 
 
 982-58 
 
 983-44 
 
 10-97 
 
 10-22 
 
 — -75 
 
 24-2 
 
 133 
 
 1 
 
 973-53 
 
 973-86 
 
 17-99 
 
 17-73 
 
 — •26 
 
 40-1 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 301 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM the principal WlNE-PRODUClNG COVi^TRISS— continued. 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 NAME. 
 
 *3 ^ 
 
 
 'uJ.B- 
 
 11 
 
 •3.-2l<! 
 
 & 1^ 
 
 -'^•^ 
 
 
 OiS 
 
 
 no 
 in 
 112 
 
 "3 
 114 
 
 "5 
 116 
 117 
 
 118 
 119 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 123 
 124 
 
 125 
 126 
 127 
 
 128 
 
 129 
 130 
 
 131 
 132 
 
 133 
 
 Greek Wines— 
 
 Keffesia . . . 
 Keffesia 
 
 Patras .... 
 Thiera . . . 
 St. Elie .... 
 Lachrymse Christi 
 Santorin . . 
 Patras .... 
 
 Cape Wines — 
 
 Imitation Sherry . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 
 Imitation Port . . 
 
 Do. do. . , 
 Imitation Madeira 
 
 Atlantic Islands- 
 
 Madeira . . . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Do 
 
 Elbe Wines— 
 Imitation Sherry . 
 
 Australian Wines- 
 
 ! Adelaide 
 
 ■225 
 •431 
 •341 
 ■233 
 ■454 
 •386 
 •263 
 •542 
 
 •210 
 •263 
 •227 
 •330 
 •304 
 •278 
 •224 
 
 ■281 
 •326 
 ■420 
 
 •229 
 
 •274 
 ■399 
 •394 
 •370 
 ■340 
 
 ■363 
 •153 
 •300 
 
 •177 
 •168 
 ■204 
 •159 
 •136 
 
 •126 
 ■099 
 ■loi 
 ■120 
 •129 
 •io8 
 ■147 
 
 •183 
 ■168 
 •327 
 
 ■09s 
 
 •153 
 •270 
 •285 
 
 •323 
 ■388 
 
 •679 
 ■623 
 •716 
 
 •454 
 ■664 
 ■642 
 •461 
 ■712 
 
 •368 
 •386 
 
 ■353 
 •480 
 
 •465 
 •403 
 
 •510 
 •536 
 ■825 
 
 ■347 
 
 •465 
 •739 
 •751 
 •774 
 •82s 
 
 ■0075 
 •0150 
 •0675 
 •0300 
 
 •1274 
 
 •0150 
 none 
 
 ■0150 
 •0318 
 none 
 •0040 
 
 ■0300 
 none. 
 
 ■0750 
 •0300 
 •0300 
 ■1200 
 0600 
 
302 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE PRINCIPAL WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 19 
 
 KB 
 
 U) p 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Dry residue 
 {jninus Ash). 
 
 Found. 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated 
 from 
 
 Col. 7. 
 
 o d-d 
 
 cup 
 
 «; 5; a 
 
 in ti " 
 
 '^ o 
 U 
 
 ii E 
 
 P3 ^ 
 
 110 
 III 
 
 112 
 
 "3 
 114 
 
 "5 
 116 
 117 
 
 n8 
 119 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 123 
 124 
 
 125 
 126 
 127 
 
 128 
 
 129 
 130 
 131 
 132 
 133 
 
 Greek Wines— 
 
 Keffesia . . . 
 Keifesia . . . 
 Patras .... 
 Thiera. . . . 
 St. Elie . . 
 Lachrymse Christ! 
 Santorin . . 
 Patras . . . , 
 
 Cape Wines — 
 
 Imitation Sheny . 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 Do. do. . 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 Imitation Port . . 
 
 Do. do. . 
 Imitation Madeira 
 
 Atlantic Islands- 
 
 Madeira 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 
 Elbe Wines — 
 Imitation Sherry . . . 
 
 Australian Wines— 
 
 Adelaide 
 
 1700 
 1158 
 I -818 
 
 I -855 
 f5i6 
 
 24-262 
 2 "230 
 
 13-129 
 
 3'377 
 3-146 
 3718 
 4-167 
 8-028 
 6-860 
 4-909 
 
 3-678 
 2-645 
 2-294 
 
 2-818 
 
 1-005 
 2-273 
 1-238 
 1-568 
 9-413 
 
 2-387 
 1-885 
 2-332 
 2-763 
 2-168 
 
 32-022 
 2-645 
 
 17-220 
 
 5-700 
 4-132 
 4-483 
 5-513 
 8-735 
 9-070 
 
 5-783 
 
 5-106 
 4-046 
 4-276 
 
 3-924 
 
 1-356 
 2-521 
 2-084 
 2-085 
 10-974 
 
 + -687 
 
 + -727 
 
 + -514 
 
 + -908 
 
 + -652 
 + 5-238 
 
 + -415 
 
 +2-323 
 
 + 
 
 -986 
 
 + 
 
 •765 
 
 + 1-346 1 
 
 + 
 
 -707 
 
 + : 
 
 -210 
 
 + 
 
 -874 
 
 + 1 
 
 -428 
 
 + 1 
 
 -401 
 
 + 1 -982 
 
 + 1 
 
 •106 
 
 + 
 
 •351 
 
 + 
 
 -248 
 
 + 
 
 -846 
 
 + 
 
 •517 
 
 + 1 
 
 -561 
 
 ■104 
 
 ■133 
 
 •200 
 
 364 
 112 
 
 26-784 
 386 
 
 15-150 
 
 3-120 
 
 
 2 -080 
 
 
 
 1-241 
 
 — 
 
 2-479 
 
 -028 
 
 5-196 
 
 — 
 
 6-760 
 
 none 
 
 1-400 
 
 
 2-850 
 
 
 2-080 
 
 — 
 
 1-629 
 
 ~ 
 
 2-700 
 
 none 
 
 -116 
 
 
 -250 
 
 — 
 
 •094 
 
 — 
 
 -131 
 
 — 
 
 7-700 
 
 — 
 
IX.] 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 303 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the Analyses of various Wines 
 
 FROM THE PRINCIPAL WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 25 
 
 26 
 
 27 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 t3 
 
 •o 
 
 lu- 
 
 
 X. 
 
 "J. 
 
 ^i 
 
 gjg 
 
 ■'< 
 
 M 
 
 1% 
 
 NAME. 
 
 in 
 < 
 
 1 
 
 Ill 
 
 u £ e 
 III 
 
 "1 
 
 
 
 
 Greek Wines— 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 no 
 
 Keffesia 
 
 ■300 
 
 •117 
 
 ■07s 
 
 •108 
 
 ■021 
 
 ■021 
 
 III 
 
 Keffesia . . 
 
 
 
 ■270 
 
 •083 
 
 •060 
 
 •127 
 
 ■013 
 
 ■010 
 
 112 
 
 Patras ... 
 
 
 
 •225 
 
 •007 
 
 ■100 
 
 •118 
 
 ■025 
 
 ■025 
 
 "3 
 
 Thiera 
 
 
 
 •375 
 
 •021 
 
 •105 
 
 •249 
 
 ■04s 
 
 ■013 
 
 114 
 
 St. Elie • . . • • 
 
 
 
 ■3°5 
 
 •041 
 
 •063 
 
 ■201 
 
 ■025 
 
 •015 
 
 "S 
 
 Lachrymse Christi . . 
 
 
 
 ■568 
 
 ■13s 
 
 •130 
 
 •303 
 
 ■OSS 
 
 ■oi8 
 
 116 
 
 Santorin .... 
 
 
 
 •38s 
 
 •021 
 
 ■09s 
 
 •269 
 
 ■034 
 
 •023^ 
 ■02? 
 
 117 
 
 Patras . . 
 
 
 
 •306 
 
 •022 
 
 ■120 
 
 ■165 
 
 ■028 
 
 
 Cape Wines— 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 118 
 
 Imitation Sherry .... 
 
 •28s 
 
 •052 
 
 ■068 
 
 ■166 
 
 •018 
 
 ■015 
 
 119 
 
 Do. do. . . . 
 
 
 
 ■337 
 
 •026 
 
 ■084 
 
 •227 
 
 ■028 
 
 ■018 
 
 120 
 
 Do. do. . 
 
 
 
 ■332 
 
 •007 
 
 ■123 
 
 ■202 
 
 ■040 
 
 — 
 
 121 
 
 122 
 
 Do. do. 
 
 
 
 ■353 
 ■36s 
 
 ■028 
 ■035 
 
 ■091 
 
 ■no 
 
 •235 
 ■220 
 
 •023 
 ■030 
 
 ■013 
 ■020 
 
 Imitation Port . . 
 
 
 123 
 
 Do. do. . . . 
 
 
 
 ■363 
 
 ■059 
 
 •080 
 
 ■224 
 
 •043 
 
 ■018 
 
 124. 
 
 Imitation Madeira . . 
 
 
 
 •275 
 
 •024 
 
 •068 
 
 •183 
 
 •015 
 
 •01 5 
 
 
 Atlantic Islands — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 126 
 
 Madeira 
 
 ■37s 
 
 ■052 
 
 ■105 
 
 ■218 
 
 ■03s 
 
 — 
 
 Da 
 
 •390 
 
 •028 
 
 ■no 
 
 •252 
 
 ■043 
 
 ■015 
 
 127 
 
 Do ■ 
 
 Elbe Wines— 
 
 ■359 
 
 ■017 
 
 ■149 
 
 ■193 
 
 ■050 
 
 
 128 
 
 Imitation Sherry .... 
 Australian Wines — 
 
 •163 
 
 •017 
 
 ■053 
 
 '093 
 
 •0J5 
 
 ■015 
 
 129 
 130 
 131 
 132 
 
 133 
 
 \ 
 
 •19s 
 
 •031 
 
 ■04s 
 
 ■119 
 
 ■015 
 
 ■015 
 
 
 ■273 
 
 ■031 
 
 •075 
 
 ■167 
 
 ■010 
 
 ■010 
 
 \ Aflplnirlp .... 
 
 
 •275 
 •215 
 
 •028 
 •041 
 
 ■075 
 ■100 
 
 ■173 
 ■074 
 
 •on 
 
 •039 
 
 •005 
 •030 
 
 / .rVLLcld.iu.c . • • » • • 
 
 1 1 
 
 •310 
 
 ■045 
 
 '075 
 
 ■igo 
 
 •023 
 
 ■010 
 
304 
 
 ANALYSES OF WINES. 
 
 [CHAP. IX. 
 
 Tables exhibiting the Results of the 'Analyses of various Wines from 
 
 THE PRINCIPAL WiNE-PRODUCING COUNTRIES — continued. 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 29 
 
 30 
 
 31 
 
 32 
 
 33 
 
 •u 
 
 NAME. 
 
 Colour. 
 
 Year. 
 
 Alcohol in 
 Ethers. 
 
 Total ^ 
 
 Alcohol in 
 
 Ethers. 
 
 C: S; » 3 !A 
 
 S ft.0.9 
 3-2 .S 8 
 
 Fixed. 
 
 Volati'e. 
 
 Found. 
 
 Calcu- 
 lated. 
 
 
 Greek Wines— 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 no 
 III 
 
 112 
 
 "3 
 114 
 
 "5 
 ii6 
 
 iiy 
 
 Keffesia 
 
 Keffesia 
 
 Patras 
 
 Thiera 
 
 St. Elie 
 
 Lachryrase Christi . . 
 Santprin .... 
 Patras 
 
 Cape Wines— 
 
 Red 
 White 
 
 — 
 
 ■0173 
 
 ■oi4;i 
 
 •0224 
 •024S 
 ■0385 
 •0460 
 •0254 
 •0414 
 
 •0350 
 ■0304 
 ■0214 
 ■0207 
 •0179 
 
 ■01 75 
 •0147 
 •0275 
 
 •0523 
 •0449 
 ■0438 
 •0452 
 •0564 
 •0635 
 ■0402 
 •0689 
 
 ■0616 
 ■0592 
 •0690 
 •0530 
 •0707 
 •0486 
 ■0488 
 •0714 
 
 86-4 
 75-8 
 63-6 
 85-1 
 797 
 
 82-1 
 
 96-5 
 
 ii8 
 Iiq 
 
 Imitation Sherry . . . 
 Do. do. ... 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 ■0224 
 
 •0175 
 
 •0399 
 
 •0502 
 
 79-5 
 
 I20 
 121 
 122 
 
 Do. do. ... 
 Do. do. ... 
 Imitation Port . . . 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 = 
 
 = 
 
 = 
 
 123 
 
 124 
 
 Do. do. . . 
 Imitation Madeira . . 
 
 Atlantic Islands — 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 •0287. 
 •0292 
 
 •0207 
 •033s 
 
 •0494 
 •0627 
 
 ■0573 
 •0828 
 
 86-1 
 757 
 
 125 
 126 
 127 
 
 Madeira 
 
 Do. ... 
 
 Do 
 
 Elbe Wines— 
 
 — 
 
 1812 
 
 •0202 
 ■030s 
 •0460 
 
 ■0378 
 •0382 
 •0772 
 
 •0580 
 ■0687 
 '1232 
 
 •0745 
 ■0774 
 •1207 
 
 77-8 
 887 
 
 102 -I 
 
 128 
 
 Imitation Sherry 
 Australian Wines — 
 
 ~^ 
 
 " 
 
 ■0177 
 
 •0129 
 
 ■0306 
 
 •0460 
 
 66-4 
 
 129 
 
 130 
 
 131 
 
 132 
 
 133 
 
 Adelaide / 
 
 White 
 Red. 
 
 — 
 
 •0127 
 ■0212 
 ■0151 
 
 ■OIS7 
 
 •0409 
 •0370 
 •0336 
 •0423 
 
 •0536 
 •0582 
 •0487 
 ■0580 
 
 ■0575 
 ■0787 
 ■07 II 
 •0754 
 
 93 •! 
 
 73-9 
 68-5 
 76-6 
 
VITICULTURAL MAP 
 
 OF THE 
 
 DEPARTMENT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 GIRONDE. 
 
 MONTENDRE "* ^y 
 
 J. A N I) JC S 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 WINES OF THE GIRONDE. 
 
 The Gironde. — The Medoc. — Vines cultivated in the Medoc. — Modes of culti- 
 vating the soil and vine in the Medoc. — The vintage and vinification in the 
 Medoc. — Qualification of the wines of the Medoc. — Classified grov^ths — First 
 class. — Second class. — Third, fourth, and fifth class. — Bourgeois; paysans. — 
 Prices of the Medoc vi^ines. — Mode of effecting sales in the Medoc. — The con- 
 sumption of Medoc wines. — Statistics of viticultural property and production 
 of the Medoc. — The Graves. — Red wines of the Graves. — White wines of the 
 Graves or Sauternes district. — Vintage. — Classification of the wines. — Descrip- 
 tion of the wines. — Viticultural statistics of the Sauternes district producing 
 white wines. — Viticultural statistics of the part of the Graves or Sauternes 
 district producing red wines. — Wines of the hill-sides or cotes of the Gironde. — 
 Vineyard of St. Emilion. — Classification of the wines of St. Emilion, and 
 enumeration of the communes of the Liboume district. — Viticultural statistics 
 of the district of Blaye. — Viticultural statistics of the district on the right bank 
 of the Garonne producing white wines. — Viticultural statistics of the district o 
 the Marshes, Palus, and Entre deux Mers. 
 
 THE GIRONDE. 
 
 The Department of the Gironde possesses about 140,000 
 hectares of vineyards, producing annually on an average 
 250,000 tonneaux, or 2,280,000 hectolitres of wine. These 
 wines are celebrated for their variety, their remarkable perfec- 
 tion, the low prices of their common qualities, the enormous 
 prices of their first qualities, and by the remarkable trade to 
 all parts of the world to which they give rise. The estimated 
 average value of two-sixths of the annual produce is 50 francs 
 the barrique; two-sixths, 125 francs; one-sixth is 250 francs; 
 and the last sixth, 500 francs the barrique, immediately after 
 the spring racking. This gives a gross production of 280 
 millions of francs, and, if we deduct, from that an average 
 
 X 
 
3o6 THE MEDOC. [chap. 
 
 annual expenditure of 500 francs per hectare, we find that the 
 Gironde raises an annual clear value of 1 80,000,000 francs in 
 the shape of wine alone. 
 
 The Gironde is practically divisible into five wine-producing 
 districts — namely, the Medoc, a district on the left bank of the 
 Garonne, extending from Blanquefort to the sea; the Graves, 
 or high plains about the confluence of the Garonne and 
 Dordogne ; the Cotes, or inclined banks of the right side of 
 the Garonne ; the Palus, or low marshy territory on both 
 banks of the Garonne in the more immediate neighbourhood 
 of Bordeaux ; and the district of Entre deux mers, or low 
 land between the Dordogne and Garonne. 
 
 THE MiDOC. 
 
 The Medoc, geographically so called, is the tongue of 
 land which forms the left border of the Garonne after its 
 union with the Dordogne, called the Gironde ; and it extends 
 from Blanquefort, a little town about fifteen kilometres west 
 of Bordeaux, to the sea. But the M^doc of the oinophilist 
 begins only west of Ludon, in the Commune of Macau. It 
 produces the wines of Labarde and Cantenac; in its very heart 
 those of Margaux. Further on are the great growths of Saint 
 Julien and Pauillac. Still farther west it produces the St. 
 Est^phe, and at its western limits the wines of Saint Seurin- 
 de-Cadourne. This is the Haut M6doc, a district of about 
 forty-five kilometres in length, and from eight to twenty kilo- 
 metres in width. Its general feature is that of a vast plain, 
 falling somewhat towards the Gironde. Its soil is gravel, or 
 rolled quartz or flint, covering a subsoil which is sometimes 
 clayey, but most frequently formed of sand, or of sand which 
 by an infiltration of hydrated iron oxyde has been concreted 
 partly into a soft, friable, pudding stone, partly into a very 
 hard rock-like material, both being known under the name 
 of the alios. This variation of the soil causes a great 
 variety in its products, so that the best and most inferior 
 wines grow frequently side by side. As the vines are the 
 same, and their cultivation identical, the soil alone can explain 
 
X.] VINES OF THE M^DOC. 307 
 
 the difterence, but the special conditions of this difference are 
 as yet wrapt in mystery. 
 
 VINES CULTIVATED IN THE M^DOC. 
 
 The vines cultivated in the M6doc are not many in number, 
 but the names by which they are designated in various com- 
 munities are very numerous. Happily there are at Bordeaux 
 men of science actively engaged to unravel this confusion. 
 Foremost among them is M. Boucherot, proprietor of the 
 estate of Carbonieux. For a long time he has cultivated all 
 the best known vines of France and other countries, has main- 
 tained a collection of synonymous plants, and experimented in 
 his vast vineyard with all the special methods of cultivation, 
 usual in the Gironde. He has not only used the results to his own 
 advantage, but allowed everybody to profit by his observations. 
 
 The most common vine is the Carbenet Sauvignon.^ This 
 vine is also termed Petite Vidure in the neighbourhood of 
 Bordeaux. Its canes have nodes ^t frequent intervals ; its 
 leaves are small, rather thick, more long than broad, with five 
 lobes separated by- deeply cut sinuses, and strongly toothed 
 at the margin. Their upper side is rugged, and of a light 
 green colour; their lower side is slightly woolly. The blossom 
 is not very easily spoiled by cold weather. The bunch of 
 grapes is of less than middle size, pyramidal, longish, generally 
 bearing two somewhat detached wings. The berries are small, 
 of even size, bluish black, very bloomy, with a thin husk. They 
 are very juicy, and have not the sweet astringent taste of the 
 Burgundy grape, but a more acidulous, refreshing, and most 
 agreeable taste, giving the impression, says Bronner, as if one 
 had the Bordeaux wine already in one's mouth. The surname 
 of Sauvignon is derived from the similarity of its leaf and wood 
 to the vine of that name, which will be mentioned lower down. 
 It is the best and most fertile of all the fine black grapes of 
 the Gironde, ripens the earliest, and spoils the last. It is the 
 
 * "Carbenet" is the word as spelled by Guyot, but Rendu spells it "cabemet." 
 We are inclined to consider " carbenet " the commonest spelling, and add that the b 
 of the name is pronounced so softly by the Girondais as to resemble an ni. The 
 German author Bronner, therefore, collecting his information in the Gironde itself, 
 writes the name "Carmenet." 
 
 X 2 
 
3o8 VINES OF THE MtDOC. [chap. 
 
 most esteemed in the great growths of Pauillac, Saint-Julien, 
 and Margaux ; it makes up five-eighths of the plantations of 
 Lafitte, Mouton, Latour, Leoville, Margaux, Rozan, &c. It 
 grows particularly well in the heavy soils mixed with much 
 sand and clay. It is regular in its production, but its product, 
 like that of all the best vines, is never abundant ; it carries all 
 grapes to an equal degree of maturity at the same time, with- 
 out showing on the same stalk black, red, and green grapes. It 
 yields wine of a fine colour, full of delicacy, and possessing 
 great bouquet. The wine during the first years is a little 
 harsh, and in order to acquire its perfection must be kept 
 four years in the wood and two years in bottle. But under 
 these circumstances, if it be of a good year, it keeps exceed- 
 ingly well, increases in delicacy and bouquet up to its 
 fifteenth year, and keeps its qualities up to the twentieth. 
 After that it loses its soft fulness and becomes drier. The 
 Carbenet Sauvignon stands to the great wines of the M^doc 
 in the same relation as the Pineau or Noirien to the great 
 wines of the C6te d'Or ; as the Riessling to the great wines 
 of the Rheingau ; they would not exist without it. 
 
 The second in importance amongst the vines of the Gironde 
 is the Franc Carbenet (or carbenet gris), a variety of the 
 former. The nodes of the canes are more distant from each 
 other than in the former ; the leaves are more wide than long, 
 and dark green above, but otherwise like those of the Carbenet 
 Sauvignon. The petals of its flower do not fall at blooming 
 time like those of other vines, but open at the top, and form 
 a kind of monk's hood over the ovary. The bunch is much 
 like that of the Carbenet Sauvignon, but has smaller berries. 
 This variety prospers in lighter soil {graves douces) better 
 than in heavy. Its wine may be described in the same words 
 as that of the first variety. 
 
 The Merlot (or gros doux) has a fine bunch of grapes 
 above the middle size, of pyramidal form, and winged; the 
 grapes are a little flabby, bluish black, and with a thick husk. 
 The Merlot cannot bear drought, and grows best on moist 
 inclines, or so-called graves fraickes en coteaux. Its grape 
 ripens a few days before that of the Carbenets, and when 
 
X.] VINES OF THE GIRONDE. 309 
 
 once ripe it easily becomes rotten. Its wine is lighter and 
 earlier ready than that of the Carbenet, and has much less 
 bouquet and juiciness (shve) than the latter ; it also wants body 
 and durability, but its great property is to be soft and tender. 
 
 Paguierre states that the Merlot has its name from merle (a 
 thrush), because this bird was a particular friend of the grapes 
 of this vine. 
 
 The Malbec bears many names in the Gironde, amongst 
 them Noir de Pressac, Gourdoux, Estrangey, C6t rouge, Pied 
 de Perdrix. In Central Germany it is known as "Blue 
 James," or " Jacobin." The vine is an abundant producer, 
 and thrives in consistent soils, but also in the gravelly soils if 
 they are not too lean. Its grape is very precocious, very sweet 
 and tasty, much inclined to rottenness when once ripe, and 
 gives a light wine without qualities, particularly when grown 
 on fat land. This explains why this vine is not much grown 
 in the great situations of the M^doc ; it is only allowed in the 
 low grounds, and its grape is admitted only as material for 
 second-rate wines. 
 
 Count Odart ascribes to the wine made from this grape 
 purity, a dark colour, and much body. This property, says 
 the great cenologist, enables the wine-merchants to mix this 
 wine with white wine, and thus to impart to it the spirit which 
 it wants, without thereby conferring particular advantage on 
 themselves or damaging the consumer. The variety with red 
 grapes and fed stalklets is the " Pied de Perdrix." There 
 also exists a variety with green berries and stalklets. In its 
 general character the Malbec is closely related to the 
 Pineau of Burgundy, and in systematic classifications is 
 always placed by its side. 
 
 The Verdot is a vine of subordinate importance so far as the 
 M^doc is concerned, where it only occurs as an auxiliary. But 
 in the " Palus " or marshes it becomes the vine of first import- 
 ance. The wines of Queyries and Montferrand owe their 
 reputation to this vine. Its leaves are distinguished from 
 those of the other varieties here cultivated, by showing three 
 or five lobes, of which the middle one is prolonged to a 
 point. Their upper sides are rugged, the lower woolly. The 
 
3IO MODES OF CULTIVATING THE SOIL [chap. 
 
 grapes are small, soft, uneven, round, reddish black, strongly 
 bloomed, with a thin skin, and an acidulous taste. They 
 ripen late. The Verdot prospers the better, the moister the 
 subsoil of the land on which it grows. As it is the latest 
 ripening grape of all in the M6doc, it is only planted in good 
 positions. Its wine has much juiciness, fulness, and vinosity, 
 and combines well with that of the Carbenet ; it gives dura- 
 bility to wines with which it is mixed. The Verdot is therefore 
 found amongst the best growths of the M6doc, in Pauillac, 
 Saint-Julien, and Margaux. 
 
 The Cruchinet, sometimes also specified as Cruchinet rouge, 
 has a large bunch with closely packed grapes ; the latter are a 
 little elongated. Its fine-lobed leaf is but slightly woolly. It 
 gives a remarkably agreeable bouquet to wine, and for this 
 reason has for some years been multiplied at Chateau Lafitte. 
 
 The Carmenire is cultivated at Margaux and Cantenac. It 
 thrives in light sandy soil, and is not injured by drought. It 
 shoots early in spring, and yields a sweet and tasty grape, 
 with black skins. Its wine has more body and colour than 
 that of the Carbenet Sauvignon. The Carmen^re develops 
 its full bearing powers only seven or eight years after planta- 
 tion, and is never very fertile. It yields only six barriques of 
 wine to the hectare, where the Carbenet Sauvignon would 
 yield twelve. It is therefore cultivated solely for its peculiar 
 qualities in particular situations, and not rarely mixed with 
 the Cruchinet. The mixed wine of these two plants is of 
 excellent quality. 
 
 These, then, are the principal vines of the M^doc yielding 
 wines of quality. There are of course other vines cultivated 
 in mediocre situations, the only quality of which is fertility. 
 Thus the Brasac, with small grape; the Mareye, with very 
 large grape ; and the Enrachet, with sour grapes and red 
 woolly leaves, have all some advantages in certain localities. 
 
 MODES OF CULTIVATING THE SOIL AND VINE IN THE 
 
 Mi;DOC. 
 Before a piece of land is planted with the vine, it is always 
 grubbed and levelled, so as to cause the water to fall in a 
 
X-] AND VINE IN THE MEDOC. 311 
 
 certain direction. In the marshy land, or palus, ditches are 
 also cut round the vineyards, and systematic drainage with 
 tile-tubes is effected. In parts where the alios is not far 
 from the surface it is broken up, however hard it may be, but if 
 it lies deeper than one metre, it is left untouched. It has long 
 been a disputed question whether the alios was penetrable by 
 water or not, and whether in the latter case it ought not to be 
 removed from, or at least frequently pierced, in every vineyard 
 where it presents itself. The opinion of viticulturists is now 
 in favour of a slight permeability of the alios. The ordinary 
 depth of the grubbing is sixty centimetres, or two feet Eng- 
 lish. The soil is then allowed to become settled, and after a 
 good rain planting is commenced. For each cane a hole is 
 made with an iron rod, -the cane inserted, and surrounded 
 with a little loose sand ; or the canes are laid into holes 
 dug with the bident hoe or pioche. In the second year, if 
 certain canes have failed, they are replaced by rooted canes 
 or barbeaux. The part of the cane above ground has two 
 eyes, and is fixed to a stake with an osier tie. The vines 
 of the same line stand at a distance of one metre ten centi- 
 metres from each other ; the lines are one metre apart. The 
 hectare generally carries nine thousand vines. In the first 
 year the land of the vineyard is turned and weeded six times, 
 in the second year only four times. In this year the young 
 vine is cut back upon two or three eyes. In the third year 
 the vine-dresser commences to form the two arms which con- 
 stitute the peculiarity of the M^doc cultivation. In addition 
 to the stake close to its stem called " tutor " {carasson), a 
 second stake is placed equidistant between each two vines, 
 and their tops are united horizontally by a single line of lath 
 {latie). To these the vines are fixed in the manner illustrated 
 by Figs. 49 and 50. 
 
 These represent the vines at various ages as they appear 
 after the spring dressing. The whole of the vines of the Haut 
 M^doc are thus cultivated. 
 
 As the vines begin to bear they are manured ; at the foot 
 of each vine a hole is made, filled with manure, consisting 
 mostly of rotten stable-dung, so called consomme, and again 
 
MODE OF CULTIVATING 
 
 [chap. 
 
 312 
 
 covered with earth. Every fifty vines receive a cubic metre 
 of dung. When the foot of the vine is uncovered, the vine- 
 dresser cuts off the coronal, day, or dew-roots close to the 
 
 stem. 
 
 The pruning of the vines begins in the first days of 
 November, and is completed in January. In the fifth year 
 
 Fig. 49. — Normally trained vines of the Haut Medoc ; a, 4 years old ; B, 8 years old ; 
 c, i6 years old. 
 
 each vine has its two arms as represented above; and now 
 begins the process called taille d. I'aste} The " aste " is 
 the strongest cane of the one year's wood grown from the 
 
 D E 
 
 FKi. 50. — Normally trained vines of the Haut Medoc ; D, 40 years old : E, 90 yiars old. 
 
 stationary arm, cut to a length of from six to eight eyes. 
 The aste-s of young vines up to ten years are fixed diagonally 
 with their end to the lath, as shown in the figures above. 
 But, when the vines are higher than fifteen centimetres with 
 their arms from the ground, which always is the case after 
 they are twelve years old, the astes have to be bent in an 
 
 ^ This word in the Medoc has the specific meaning of "fruit-branch," and 
 reminds u5 of the German Asf, a branch in general. There are several words 
 referring to the cultivation of the vine, derived from German or Saxon roots, used in 
 the Gironde, which do not occur in any other part of France. Possibly, the trans- 
 plantation of vines from the Moselle to the Bordelais, related by Ausonius, was the 
 occasion of the transfer of these terms. 
 
X.] THE VINE IN THE M^DOC. 
 
 313 
 
 arch open towards the ground, as shown in the engravings of 
 the two old vines. By the side of the aste is left a stump 
 (tiret) of two eyes, intended to produce the canes from which 
 the next year's aste is selected. Each arm, therefore, carries 
 one aste and one two-eyed stump, — that is to say, a viti- 
 cultural element, as defined on p. 68 ; each vine therefore has 
 two astes and two tirets: now as each fruit-bearing branch 
 may carry from six to eight bunches, and each stump three 
 to four, each vine may bear from eighteen to twenty-four 
 bunches of grapes. 
 
 The vine-dressers frequently preserve on the old wood 
 short stumps of new wood {cSfs), in order to be able to 
 replace an entire arm, or an aste and tiret, in case it should 
 have failed in growth or died off entirely. This practice 
 also affords the means for lowering the vine, and bringing 
 at least one of its arms nearer to the ground, in case it 
 should have risen so high as to be inconvenient in the 
 dressing and injurious to the fruit. 
 
 It has frequently been tried to adopt the low cultivation 
 of the Rheingau ; but as it ruined the vines and yielded 
 but small grapes, all such attempts have been abandoned. 
 
 Although the principle of cutting on the aste and tiret 
 pervades the entire M^doc, there are yet certain modifications 
 required by each of the varieties of vines which we have 
 above considered. The Carbenet gris, or Franc carbenet, 
 planted in suitable soil, will bear eight eyes to the aste. If 
 it is cut shorter, it runs into wood and sheds its blossoms. 
 The Carbenet Sauvignon, on the other hand, which is less 
 strong, should not have more than six or seven eyes to the 
 aste. This latter vine is the best test of the ability of the 
 vine-dresser. For, if cut too much for bearing, it is quickly 
 exhausted ; and if cut too short, it yields very poor vintages. 
 Both these varieties of vine grow, with care, new wood on 
 the old stem during the first ten years, and, in good soil, 
 even later : when the arms are to be renewed lower down, 
 it is effected on one side first, and after the establishment of 
 a new arm, aste, tiret and all, the other arm is similarly 
 lowered. The Malbec and Merlot are also cut upon aste, tiret, 
 
314 
 
 MODES OF CULTIVATING THE SOIL 
 
 [chap. 
 
 and c6t, but there are one or two tirets left in addition, which 
 produce a few more grapes. The Verdot is cut shorter, and 
 does not frequently exhibit such long arms as the other 
 varieties. Whatever the modifications required by vine, 
 age, and soil, the rules for cutting the vine, which govern 
 the entire practice in the M^doc, may be summed up as 
 follows: — I. The vine is to be established upon a vigorous 
 root and stem, and nothing is to be neglected to perfect 
 its general shape. 2. The vine is to carry two arms, the 
 bifurcation of which is not to be higher from the ground, 
 after the moveable part of this ground is removed from 
 the foot of the vine {la vigne itant ddchaiissie), than fif- 
 teen centimetres. This brings the bifurcation just above 
 
 Fig. 51. — Normal cultivation of the Haut Medoc. 
 
 ground when the stem is earthed {rechaussie). 3. The 
 arms are to be kept as low as possible, and never to reach 
 above the lath, which is from forty-five to fifty centimetres 
 above the bifurcation — say sixty centimetres above the 
 unearthed ground. The vine is to be cut back frequently; 
 for, as the vine-dressers say, the shortening of the vine 
 regenerates it. 4. Each arm is to be provided with a 
 wine-branch bearing a sufficient number of eyes, and future 
 wine-branches are to be prospected from well-placed stumps, 
 or c6ts and tirets. 
 
 The low cultivation in the M^doc is originally not a matter 
 
X.] 
 
 AND VINE IN THE MEDOC. 
 
 315 
 
 of choice, whatever may be its advantages. Hitherto, the 
 turning of the soil in the vineyards of the M^doc has been 
 effected by means of a plough, which was drawn through the 
 lines by two large oxen yoked together. The yoke conse- 
 quently had to pass over the lines of vines, each ox finding 
 just room in the free space between two lines. The lines 
 therefore had to be kept as low as possible, and the oxen 
 had to be selected as high-legged and elephantine as possible. 
 The plough was of so heavy and clumsy a form, that one 
 ox or horse could not have drawn it through the land. The 
 plough therefore demanded two oxen : these had to be yoked 
 across the latte, and the latte had to be kept low in order 
 to let the yoke pass. 
 
 Fig. 52.— Lines of vines, the earth in course of being dressed with the plough. 
 D&partement de la Haute Garonne. 
 
 The greater perfection of agricultural instruments in 
 general, however, has also had its effect upon the ploughs of 
 the M^doc. The new ploughs of M. Portal, of Moux, and 
 of Goethals and Scawinsky, of Giscours, are effective, light 
 instruments, drawn by one ox or horse, and will soon have 
 displaced the old instruments. Then the viticulturists will 
 no doubt give to the stake nearest to the trunk of the vine 
 greater, perhaps double, its present length, in order to be 
 able better to fasten the growing canes, which are to form 
 the bearing branches of the succeeding year. They should 
 adopt as much of the fashion of Sauternes regarding erect 
 
3i6 
 
 MODES OF CULTIVATING THE SOIL 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 fastenings, as the vine-dressers of this latter district would do 
 well to learn from the M^doc the practice of lateral fastening 
 of the young shoots. Such an assimilation of practice would 
 be beneficial to both, and, by generally increasing the amount 
 of produce, be beneficial to the consumer. 
 
 After the vines are cut, and the spaliers are put up, or, as 
 the case may be, repaired (they are never taken down except 
 when decay necessitates their replacement), the vines and 
 bearing branches are tied with osiers to the stakes. While 
 the pruning is done by men, these latter operations are 
 
 
 Fig. 53. — Vines in lines on ridges, the earth being thrown up around the 
 stems {cliaicssSes). Departement de la Haute Garonne. 
 
 generally performed by women. The binding is termed 
 the pliage, because in this process the necessary bending of 
 the aste is simultaneously effected, and is the most obvious 
 eff"ect, towards which the binding is only a means. 
 
 In case a vine dies out, one of the longest and strongest 
 canes of the next vine is sunk into the earth without being 
 separated from its stem, and formed into a young vine. This 
 layer is separated after the second or third year. 
 
 The vineyards are ploughed for the first time early in March. 
 By this operation the earth is removed from both sides of the 
 
X.] AND VINE IN THE MtDOC. 
 
 317 
 
 foot of the vines, and thrown up into ridges running in the 
 middle of the open spaces between the rows. The mounting 
 of the plough which effects this is called cabat. Labourers 
 with hoes remove the bands of earth which remain between 
 the vines underneath the latte : this operation is termed 
 renverser les cavaillons. The entire operation is known 
 as that of opening the vine {puvriy la vigne). 
 
 The second ploughing is performed in April, with the 
 mounting called courbe. This pushes the earth back to the 
 foot of the vine, and transforms the intervals between the 
 rows into furrows, through which the rain-water can flow easily 
 towards the terminal ditches. In May, the vines are again un- 
 
 Fio. 54 — A vine upwards of 100 years of age, as trained at Malines, near Verteillac. In 
 the year following the one in which this sketch was made it produced seventy-three 
 bunches of grapes Departement de la Dordogne. 
 
 earthed as at the first ploughing, and at a last fourth ploughing 
 they are again covered as at the second. This last operation 
 is determined by the degree of development of the grapes. 
 The berries must be well formed, and then the operation is 
 looked upon as very advantageous ; it generally takes place at 
 the end of July or beginning of August ; all weeds, if not com- 
 pletely ploughed in, are at the same time carefully removed. 
 
 The manuring of the vines is effected by putting manure 
 into the furrow opened by the cabat, and covering it with 
 earth by means of the courbe. 
 
 The blossom time of the vine in the M^doc is very regularly 
 the period from the lOth to the 15th of June. Immediately 
 
3i8 MODES OF CULTIVATING THE SOIL [cHAP. 
 
 after it is passed, the superfluous shoots are cut off by- 
 means of a knife (a practice by which this operation of the 
 dbourgonnement in the M6doc is distinguished from that 
 in most other departments where the suckers are mostly 
 broken off). Each variety of vine demands special treatment 
 at this period. The Carbenets bear but slight shortening and 
 cutting out of the suckers. A stump should always be left, as 
 after a certain age their old wood does not any longer form 
 new shoots. But the Malbec and Merlot, and particularly the 
 
 Fig. 55. - Vir.e supported by a walnut-tree, as seen at Celles, canton of Montagries, 
 arrondissement of Riberac, dep:irtement de la Dordogne. 
 
 Verdot, put forth new shoots from the old wood every year, 
 and may therefore be deprived of all suckers. 
 
 The shortening or cutting of the green canes, called 
 rognage, is only effected once towards the approach of the 
 vintage. Its object is to hasten the maturation of the grapes 
 by compelling the sap to go particularly towards the fruit. In 
 this respect the tolerance of the vines seems reversed ; the 
 Carbenets bear much cutting, while the Merlot, Malbec, and 
 Verdot do not. There may be some shortening at the time 
 
X.] 
 
 AND VINE IN THE MtOOC. 
 
 319 
 
 of ploughing to make room for men and animals, or at the 
 vintage time to give better access to the vintagers. Some- 
 times also the vine-dressers cut branches merely for the purpose 
 of feeding their cattle with them. 
 
 Fic. 56. —Vine trained upon a tree called "goblet-shape," as seen at St. Gaudens, 
 near Toulouse, departement de la Haute Garonne. 
 
 It is a common practice in the Mddoc to remove the leaves 
 from the vine when the grapes are ripening, with a view of 
 exposing them to the sun for the purpose of greater matura- 
 tion. But this practice, which may do good in exceptional, 
 well-selected, and properly-conducted instances, is, on the 
 whole, ruinous to the quality of the wine. Some unleaf the 
 
320 MODES OF CULTIVATING THE SOIL. [chap. 
 
 vine all at once, without that gradual thinning which enables 
 the grape to prepare itself for the direct rays of the sun, from 
 which hitherto it has been hidden. Others take the leaves 
 from all varieties of vines at the same time, whether they are 
 late or early, strong or delicate, and treat the late Verdot the 
 same as the earlier Carbenet, and the still more precocious 
 Malbec and Merlot. Most persons who adopt this practice 
 forget that it is of advantage only in very cold and wet seasons, 
 and then not until the grapes are very nearly ripe. They are 
 moreover so ignorant as to take the leaf-stalks off and deprive 
 the eyes of their protection. In short, the advantages of this 
 practice are so rare, and obtainable only by the observance 
 of such a number of precautions, that it would be well to 
 discontinue it altogether. It is, as at present performed, the 
 most irrational part of the cultivation of the vine in the 
 whole Gironde. 
 
 • Another and' frequently very difficult part of viticulture 
 consists in the protection of the vine from vermin. There are 
 several kinds of endemic caterpillars, the altise, and the 
 attelabe, which the country people in the Medoc call crabe. 
 Then there are slugs, and many snails of the heli.K tribe ; 
 amongst the latter the hortensis, nemoralis, arbustorum ; but 
 most commonly, and appearing in some years in hundreds of 
 thousands as a veritable plague, the Helix aspersa, or Escar- 
 geot. These latter may ruin entire vineyards, and the 
 proprietors therefore have them carefully searched for and 
 destroyed by women and children. The vine-beetle (Curculio 
 Bacchus), which pierces the green canes and causes them to 
 pine or die, also causes no little damage in some years. 
 
 The vine lives long, in some places up to sixty and seventy 
 years, while in others its vitality is quickly exhausted, so that 
 Margaux and Cantenac have to replant every twenty or thirty 
 years. This seems to depend upon conditions of the soil, 
 which cause the early decay of the main roots of the lowest 
 ring. It is said that layers of sand, through which waters pass 
 horizontally, are the commonest cause of the early extinction 
 of the plants. The cultivators therefore have given to such 
 sand the name of the dead sand. 
 
X.] THE VINTAGE IN THE MEDOC. 321 
 
 THE VINTAGE IN THE MEDOC. 
 
 The vintage in the great growths of the M6doc is about 
 a fortnight earlier than that in any other vineyards for red 
 wine of the Gironde, and a month earher than the vintage in 
 the districts of the white Sauternes. In good years it com- 
 mences on the 20th of September ; in middling years, between 
 September 25 and October i. Years in which the vintage 
 can only take place in the first fortnight of October are said 
 to be bad. 
 
 Amongst the acquisitions of liberty which the Girondese 
 conquered in the great revolution was this, that every pro- 
 prietor should have the right to collect his grapes when he 
 pleased, and should not be subjected to any restraint or com- 
 pulsion in reference to his vineyard. This natural right, 
 which has been lost in so many parts of the world by the' 
 oppression either of governments or of the much more in- 
 tolerable tyranny of petty democracies termed communes, 
 was restored by the revolution throughout the whole of 
 France. But during the restoration, this right was again lost 
 in many parts, partially or entirely ; and Burgundy, for ex- 
 ample, is smarting to this day under this most silly and 
 injurious of restrictions, the vintage-ban. But the Girondese 
 resisted, and preserved their liberty. And in this liberty we 
 recognize one of the most potent agencies of the perfection 
 of vinification in the Gironde. 
 
 At the time of the vintage in prosperous years, great num- 
 bers of labourers flock to the M^doc from all the surrounding 
 departments, — the Charente, Landes, the Pyrenees, and from 
 the Blayadais and Libournais. Not rarely they arrive in ship- 
 loads by the Gironde, and are of the poorest classes. They 
 are led in gangs by agents (termed commandanis), who defray 
 the expenses of transport of the labourers, and bargain with 
 the proprietors. The pay which these vintagers receive differs 
 a little, according to the years and demand, as determined by 
 other agricultural labours. The women and children receive 
 fifty centimes 'i,d^ per day and their food and night's quarter; 
 
 Y 
 
322 THE VINTAGE IN THE ME DOC. [CHAP. 
 
 the porters, or carriers of baskets, &c., receive one franc {lod) 
 per day, with food and night's quarter; the labourers, who 
 work in the press-house, get a slight gratuity in addition 
 to the wages of porters. 
 
 The details of the labour of the vintage are performed with 
 the following organization : — The women and children cut the 
 bunches, and immediately remove all green, rotten, or other- 
 wise spoiled grapes. To every gang cutting a range of vines 
 there is a superintendent {rangeur), who takes the full baskets 
 {paniers) from the cutters, and at the end of the range gives 
 them to a basket-emptier {vide-paniers) : this official puts the 
 grapes into a large pail, called baste; when a baste is full, a 
 porter (of whom there are two to every eight ranges of vines) 
 carries it to the waggon, where the two attendants of the 
 waggon and of the vat fixed upon it empty the contents into 
 the vat (douil or douillaf), and stamp them down. A com- 
 mandant directs the whole of the operations, from the cutting 
 to the moment when the vat, being full, is carted by oxen, 
 under the guidance of an oxherd, to the cuvier, or place 
 where the grapes are converted into wine. 
 
 This press-house mostly contains the presses {pressoirs or 
 fouloirs) on the one side, and the vats or cuves on the other. 
 The presses are of three kinds, each serving for a separate 
 part of the operation; and therefore each press-house con- 
 tains, as a rule, a set of three presses. But the instruments 
 serving for the first and second operations are only impro- 
 perly called presses. They are receptacles in which the 
 grapes are taken from the stalks and trodden and crushed by 
 men's feet. The presses are mostly of wood, but there are 
 some also of stone, such as those of Lafitte, Calon Sdeur, 
 and Chateau Margaux. The best Medoc presses are of two 
 forms, which we have represented on pp. io8, 109, and the 
 first-is a cylindrical or barrel-press, -and the second one is 
 a square press. 
 
 This latter has advantages over the former in this, that any 
 quantity of grapes, large or small, may be pressed at any time. 
 But if the vintager desires to add to pulp already in the 
 press, he only needs add a layer of boards all round, and so 
 
X.] THE VINTAGE IN THE MEDOC. 323 
 
 raise the height of the press and increase its capacity. On 
 the other hand, as the pulp is being pressed dry, the upper 
 boards may be removed, and thus give free scope to the levers 
 by which the screw-nut is turned. Some of these presses 
 measure three metres on each side, those of smaller proprietors 
 have one metre a side. They may be fixed or moveable on 
 wheels, so as to be easily transportable to each fermentation 
 vat. In one of the largest establishments we saw two presses 
 which moved backwards and forwards on railways running in 
 front of the two rows of fermentation vats. 
 
 The cylindrical presses have from five to six feet diameter, 
 and open in two halves, like the shell of a nut. They are 
 preferred in establishments where there is material enough to 
 fully employ their capacity. Thus we saw at St. Estephe, 
 on the estate of M. Phelon, two such round presses at work, 
 which during one vintage pressed 800 barriques of wine. The 
 cylindrical presses press more evenly than the square ones, as 
 the extreme parts are equidistant from the active centre of 
 the screw. During the filling in of pulp into these presses, 
 the precaution is observed of laying perforated boards hori- 
 zontally upon every foot of pulp. The resistance of the pulp 
 is thus subdivided and broken. 
 
 The fermentation vats are all of wood, and not of stone, as 
 in Burgundy ; or of marble, as in Spain. The larger vats are 
 preferred, as it is said that in them the wine gets more body. 
 
 When the oxen-drawn waggon arrives at the press-house, 
 four or five of the vintagers or pressmen empty the contents 
 of the small vats into a large press. Next begins the business 
 of pulling the berries from the stalks. The grapes are thrown 
 with shovels on large square wire nets, and then moved about 
 with the hands until all the berries have fallen through the 
 meshes into the press below. The stalks are then kept apart 
 for a while. When a press is sufficiently filled, a number of 
 men step in and tread the berries with their naked feet. This 
 they do to the sound of music of the clarionette or violin. 
 They dance regular contre-danses until the pulp has been 
 trodden through. The pulp is then shovelled upon a heap 
 in the middle of the press, the pressmen dance round it, and 
 
 Y 2 
 
324 THE VINTAGE IN THE MEDOC. [CHAP. 
 
 at each step throw with uplifted leg a Httle of the pulp from 
 the heap upon the ring in which they dance. When the heap 
 is quite dispersed the contre-danses begin again, and so on 
 until the pulp is perfect. The must is drawn off at intervals 
 and put into the vat. 
 
 This method of crushing the berries is fast falling into 
 desuetude, and at the present day half of the proprietors of 
 the M^doc do not crush their grapes at all. The omission 
 produces no difference in the wine, which is of the same 
 quality whether the berries be crushed or not. 
 
 The stalks are not cast aside, but either partly or entirely 
 put into the fermentation vat. This is a great mistake, as it 
 causes that astringent taste of the wine which requires years 
 for its mitigation. The power of conservation which the 
 extract of the stalks may possess is now no longer needed, 
 since we have means for quickly maturing wines and securing 
 them against all accidents. We hope, therefore, to see all 
 Bordeaux wine, hereafter made upon the method recommended 
 in our general part, to the advantage of both producers and 
 consumers. 
 
 The fermentation vats, being thoroughly cleaned and 
 sponged with brandy, are filled with the mixture of juice, 
 stalks, skins, and kernels ; each vat if possible the same day, 
 and then left at absolute rest until the wine is formed. The 
 time required for this vinification varies very much according 
 to the quality of the vintage and the temperature of the 
 season ; in good years it is not more than four or five days. 
 If the vatting is continued longer, the wine becomes fuller, 
 but loses good taste, softness, and delicacy: these latter 
 qualities are preferred to body in the good parts of the 
 Mddoc, where also deep colour is rather avoided ; another 
 reason for making the vatting period as short as possible. 
 The time for drawing the wine from the vats is determined 
 by the taste of experienced persons ; the must should have 
 lost its sweetness and assumed a vinous flavour: it is then 
 drawn off by means of an instrument called a griffon into 
 a large wooden vessel, and is thence transferred by means 
 of cans into the barriques, so that each barrique receives an 
 
X.] THE VINTAGE IN THE MEDOC. 325 
 
 equal number of cans of each running from each vat ; and at 
 the end of the operation all the barriques of the chais (or 
 barrel storehouse) contain wine of the same quality. This 
 wine, which runs spontaneously from the vats, and runs clear, 
 is termed the first wine. There is also a second wine from the 
 grapes which are grown on the estate, but in inferior situa- 
 tions : this possesses strength and soundness, and will sell at 
 about two-thirds of the price of the wine of first choice. The 
 third ivine is that which is produced from the pulp in the vat, 
 by the agency of the press. The thick wine which runs from 
 the vat after the clear is termed fond de cuve, and is used 
 only with second wine. This runs yet off spontaneously, and 
 the pulp is not put into the press before all liquid that will 
 flow off spontaneously is separated. By the pressing of the 
 pulp a very dark " thick " wine is obtained, which is never 
 mixed with first wine. It is most commonly used for mixing 
 with white wine, whereby it loses much of its hardness and 
 alcoholicity ; for it is a singular circumstance, that the pulp 
 retains much alcohol mechanically, and that the wine pressed 
 from it is from 3 to 5 per cent, stronger in alcohol than the 
 first wine. 
 
 The filling of the wine into the barriques must be com- 
 pleted in three days at the utmost, in order to preserve to 
 the wine all its qualities. The barriques are then closed. 
 During the first month they are filled up (puillS) every four 
 or five days ; during the second month every eight days ; and 
 subsequently every fortnight, until they are racked. This 
 filling up is always effected with wine of the same quality. 
 The wine is racked three times in the first year ; once in 
 January or February, a second time in June, and a third time 
 in September. In subsequent years it is racked but twice. 
 It remains in the barriques for four years before it is put in 
 bottles, and may be drunk when six years old. But in these 
 respects each vintage has its own peculiarities. Thus the 
 wine of 1.825, an excellent year, came to perfection only in 
 1845, while that of 1828 required only seven or eight years ; 
 the wines of 183 1 were very late, those of 1834 and 1847 pre- 
 cocious. The wines of 1846 were hardly ready ten years later. 
 
326 QUALIFICATION OF THE [chaP; 
 
 In the foregoing we have described the type of the vintage 
 and vinification in the M6doc, and desire yet to mention some 
 of the variations observed in various locahties. On estates 
 where great differences in the quahties of the vineyards 
 prevail, the several qualities are collected in vats by them- 
 selves, and the wines resulting from them are not mixed. 
 Some proprietors mix the press-wine with the first running 
 and the fonds, because, as they express it, the press-wine feeds 
 the first. We know that it does so by increasing its alco- 
 holicity and its colour. 
 
 QUALIFICATION OF THE WINES OF THE M^IDOC. 
 
 The M^doc has about 20,000 hectares of vineyards, of which 
 each produces two tonneaux or 18 hectolitres and 24 litres 
 of wine ; on an average, the whole M6doc consequently pro- 
 duces about 40,000 tonneaux. Of these, 4,500 are high class 
 wines, another 4,500 are simply fine wines, so that actually 
 only about 9,000 tonneaux, or 82,000 hectolitres of choice 
 wines, are annually produced. The Other 31,000 tonneaux, 
 although sold under the name of M6doc winesj are ordinary 
 qualities. 
 
 The fine wines of the M^doc— that is, the above 9,000 
 tonneaux^ which we will describe as yielding ten millions of 
 ordinary wine-bottles full of wine— may be arranged in three 
 categories. i. The classified wines coming from certain 
 vineyards in the arrondissement of Bordeaux and Lesparre. 
 2. The " citizen " or bourgeois wines, which are again sub- 
 divided into higher, good, and ordinary citizen, or bourgeois 
 supMeurs, bon bourgeois, and bourgeois oMinaire. 3. The 
 " peasants " or paysans, or wines of the small proprietors. 
 Whatever the category to which they may belong, all wines 
 of the M^doc are distinguished and easily recognized by 
 certain general characters which exclude all confusion with 
 other wines. They have a certain slight peculiar roughness, 
 are fine, juicy, marrowy in the mouth, and, after having been 
 in bottle some years, they have a very beautiful bouquet. 
 They have moreover this remarkable hygienic quality, that 
 
X.] WINES OF THE MEDOC. 
 
 327 
 
 they can be drunk in large quantity without, as the French 
 say, "fatiguing" either head or stomach. In this respect all 
 other wines of France behave differently. The Medoc wines 
 also stand transportation better than any other French wines, 
 and by long sea-voyages are greatly improved. 
 
 Classified Growths. — The commerce of Bordeaux recognizes 
 about sixty classified growths. They are enumerated in the 
 work of M. Frank, and may be conveniently subdivided with 
 this author into five great divisions. 
 
 First Growths. — Including only the first three growths (les 
 trois premiers crus) of the whole M^doc. 
 
 Chateau Margaux. — This estate is the property of a Spanish 
 banker, Aguado Marquis de las Marismas, and produces annu- 
 ally from 100 to no tonneaux of wine. As at Johannisberg 
 and Steinberg, a great farm is attached to the wine-producing 
 establishment, on which an enormous number of cattle yield 
 the manure by means of which the vines afterwards luxuriate. 
 The cuvier contains eighteen vats, all in one line ; opposite to 
 these there are six pressoirs, all built in stone, upon which the 
 grapes are separated from the stalks and trodden into pulp. 
 The chais or cellar is an enormous hall of great height, the 
 ceiling supported by eighteen columns. Everything here is 
 splendidly arranged, but the vinification is the same as it was 
 fifty or a hundred years ago. The vats are filled up to 
 within a foot of the upper margin, and the contents allowed to 
 ferment open. The chapeau rises, sometimes to the extent of 
 an entire foot, above the margin of the vat ; its upper half is 
 always taken off; and no part of it is left that has not a purely 
 vinous smell, without admixture of acetic or putrid odours. 
 No selection is made, and the whole of the vintage of all the 
 vineyards of the estate furnishes but one quality of wine. 
 Notwithstanding, this wine is nearly always the best of the 
 whole M^doc. In good or great years it is absolutely the 
 best, but in middling years Lafitte and Latour are superior 
 to it. As compared to St. Julien and Pauillac, the wine of 
 Chateau Margaux has more finesse and juiciness, but less 
 body. 
 
 The vineyards of the Chateau are about eighty hectares 
 
3j8 MEDOC wines. [chap. 
 
 in extent. Its soil is a grey-coloured, heavy material 
 {grave), with a substratum of clayey pudding-stone, often 
 containing sand and veins of iron-oxyde. The principal 
 slopes are towards east and west, but the best part of the 
 vineyards, the Sampeyre, is sloped towards the north and the 
 south, and nevertheless yields the best wine. One-half of the 
 entire surface is planted with the Carbenet Sauvignon. 
 
 Chateau Lafitte is the property of the banking-house 
 Rothschild, and has sixty-seven hectares of vines; its soil 
 is very variable, being a strong grave or clay-gravel, with 
 all kinds of slopes, amongst which those towards the north 
 predominate. The subsoil is very uniformly made of quartz 
 (rolled stones mixed with sand and clay). Five-eighths of 
 the vineyard are planted with the Carbenet Sauvignon ; the 
 other parts mostly with the Carbenet gris and the Merlot. 
 The wine of Lafitte has all the qualities of the Chateau 
 Margaux, but lacks its finesse ; it has, however, more body 
 and a distinguished taste. 
 
 Chateau Latour. — Proprietors, Messrs. de Coutivron and 
 de Flers. The vineyards have an area of only forty-two 
 hectares. The vines are planted in heavy clay-gravel, with 
 a compact subsoil of much rolled stone. The surface is more 
 regular than that of Lafitte, and inclined uniformly one-half 
 towards the north and the other towards the south. Two- 
 thirds of the vines are Carbenet Sauvignons ; there are also 
 Carbenet gris, and the Malbec prevails in the low situa- 
 tions. The wine of this Chateau has the most body amongst 
 the three great growths of the Medoc, but less finesse and 
 bouquet. 
 
 Second, third, and fourth Groivths. — These we will enume- 
 rate in the approximate order of their quality and value, and 
 state the area -of the vineyards as well as the estimated 
 annual produce in hogsheads, in the following list of 
 Classified Wines : — 
 
X ] CLASSIFICA TION OF WINES OF THE MEDOC. 329 
 
 LIST OF CLASSIFIED GROWTHS OF THE MEDOC. 
 
 (Shnamg under the name of each commun: the names of the proprietors oj vine- 
 yards, and the average number of hogsheads of winj annually iyroduced. ) 
 
 red wines. 
 First Growths. 
 
 Chateau Lafitte 
 Chateau Margaux , 
 
 Chateau Latour 
 
 Haut Brion . . . 
 
 Baron de Rothschild 
 Marquis Aguado 
 De Beaumont 
 Dc Courtivron 
 De Flers . . 
 Eugtee Larrieu 
 
 Hhds. 
 480 to 600 
 400 „ 440 
 
 280 „ 360 
 
 400 „ 480 
 
 Second Growths. 
 
 
 
 Hects. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Mouton .... 
 
 Pauillac . . 
 
 52 
 
 Karon de Rothschild 
 
 480 to 560 
 
 Rauzan Segla . 
 „ Gassies 
 
 Margaux . . 
 
 SI 
 
 j Cesse. de CastMpers ) 
 j Viguerie . . . . j 
 
 280 „ 300 
 
 
 
 16S 
 
 Marquis Lascazes . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 LeoviUe .... 
 
 St. Julien . 
 
 so 
 
 Baron de Poyfere , 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 
 
 Us 
 
 Barton 
 
 200 , , 280 
 
 Vivens-Durfort . . 
 
 Margaux . . 
 
 32 
 
 De Puysegu . . . 
 [ De Bethmann . . 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Gruau-Larose . . 
 
 St. Julien . 
 
 51 
 
 •j Baron Sarget ... 
 / Veuve Boisregard . 
 
 400 „ 600 
 
 Lascombe . . . 
 
 Margaux . 
 
 21 
 
 Hue 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 De Brane . . . 
 
 Cantenac 
 
 4'; 
 
 Baron de Brane . . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 PichoTi-Longueville 
 
 Pauillac . . 
 
 5° 
 
 Baron de Pichon- 
 Longueville. 
 
 400 „ 480 
 
 Ducrue-Beaucaillon 
 
 St, Julien . 
 
 ,3.'? 
 
 DucruRavez . . . 
 
 280 ,, 360 
 
 Cos-Destoumel . 
 
 St. Estiphe . 
 
 28 
 
 Martyns .... 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 Montrose . . . 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 " 
 
 Dumoulin .... 
 
 400 „ 480 
 
 Third Growths. 
 
 
 
 Hects 
 
 Kirwan .... 
 
 Cantenac 
 
 24 
 
 Chateau d'Issan . 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 43 
 
 Lagrange . . . 
 
 St. Julien . 
 
 122 
 
 Langoa .... 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 70 
 
 Giscours . . 
 
 Labarde . . 
 
 45 
 
 St. Escupery . . 
 
 Margaux . . 
 
 — 
 
 Boyd .... 
 
 Cantenac 
 
 — 
 
 Palmer .... 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 »5 
 
 Ph. Godard . . . 
 Blanchy .... 
 Count Duchatel . . 
 
 Barton 
 
 J. and P. Pescatore 
 Fourcade .... 
 Several proprietors . 
 E. Pereire .... 
 
 Hhds. 
 140 to 160 
 200 „ 280 
 480 „ 600 
 400 , , 480 
 
 320 ,, 400 
 
 100 „ 120 
 120 ,, 140 
 200 , , 240 
 
330 CLASSIFICA TION OF WINES OF THE MEDOC. [chap. 
 Third Growths — continued. 
 
 
 
 Hects. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 La Lagune . . . 
 
 Ivudors . . 
 
 S6 
 
 Piston 
 
 120 to 160 
 
 Desmirail . . . 
 
 Margaux . . 
 
 H 
 
 Sipierre .... 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Dubignon . . . 
 
 Bo. . . 
 
 13 
 
 I P. Dubignon . . . ) 
 I M. Dubignon . . \ 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Galon 
 
 St. Estephe . 
 
 SS 
 
 F. Lestapis . . . 
 
 480 „ 640 
 
 Ferriere .... 
 
 Margaux . . 
 
 
 Veuve J. Ferriere . 
 
 40,, 60 
 
 Becker .... 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 — 
 
 Synyderski . . . 
 
 16 „ 20 
 
 Fourth Growths. 
 
 St. Pierre . , 
 
 Talbot . . 
 Duluc . . 
 Duhart . . 
 Pouget-Lascale 
 Pouget , . 
 Camet . , 
 Rochet . . 
 Ch. de Beychevelle 
 Le Prieure . . 
 De Thermes 
 Canet. . , . 
 Batailley . . . 
 Grand- Puy 
 A rtigues- Amaud 
 Lynch . . 
 Lynch-Moussas 
 Dauzats . 
 D'Armailhacq . 
 Le Tertre . . 
 Haut-Bages . . 
 Pedescleaux 
 Coutenceau . . 
 Camensac . . 
 Cas-Labary . , 
 Clerc-Milon 
 Croizet-' 
 Cantemerle 
 
 St. Julien 
 
 Do. . 
 
 Do. . 
 Pauiilac . 
 Cantenac 
 
 Do. . 
 -St. Laurent 
 St. Estephe 
 St. Julien 
 Cantenac 
 Margaux 
 Pauiilac 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 Labarde 
 Pauiilac 
 Arsac. 
 Pauiilac 
 
 Do. 
 St. Laurent 
 
 Do. 
 St. Estephe 
 Pauiilac . 
 
 Do. . 
 Macau 
 
 Hecu. 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 69 
 60 
 
 II 
 
 52 
 22 
 40 
 
 67 
 34 
 52 
 
 91 
 
 Bontemps-Dubarry 
 Veuve RouUett . 
 Veuve Galloupeau 
 Marquis d'Aux . 
 Veuve Duluc . . 
 Casteja. . . . 
 Izan .... 
 De Chavaille , . 
 De Luetkens . 
 Veuvel,. deCamarsac 
 P. F. Guestier, jun. 
 Rosset . . 
 O. Sollberg 
 De Poutet . 
 J. F. Guestier 
 F. Lacoste 
 Duroy . 
 ] urine . 
 Vasquez . 
 Wiebrok . 
 D'Armailhacq 
 C. Henry . 
 Liberal 
 Pedescleaux 
 B. Devez . 
 Popp . . 
 Martyns . 
 Clerc . 
 P. Clave . 
 De Villeneuve-Dur- 
 fort. 
 
 Hhds. 
 100 to 140 
 
 100 ,, 140 
 
 280 „ 320 
 320 „ 360 
 160 „ 200 
 
 40,, 60 
 
 48,, 60 
 400 „ 480 
 120 „ 160 
 400 ,, 480 
 100 „ 120 
 160 „ 180 
 400 „ 480 
 240 ,, 320 
 200 , , 240 
 320 „ 400 
 280 „ 320 
 120 ,, 160 
 200 „ 240 
 400 „ 480 
 240 „ 280 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 120 ,, 160 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 200 ,, 240 
 480 „ 520 
 
 The yield of the whole of these growths may be estimated 
 to be about five millions of bottles. The excess of 220,000 
 bottles which might be calculated from the sum of the 
 numbers of tonneaux raised, would be quite absorbed by 
 filling up, racking, and loss- in bottling operations and trans- 
 
X.] PRICES OF THE MEDOC WINES. 331 
 
 mission. When these five millions of bottles are distributed 
 over the consumers of the whole world, it becomes apparent 
 how small a quantity each can obtain, and how enormous 
 must be the substitutions which the trade of Bordeaux and 
 other places makes of unclassed and indeed of any kind of 
 wine, whether from Bordeaux or other parts of France, for 
 M6doc. 
 
 PRICES OF THE MfiDOC WINES. 
 
 The study of the prices of the M^doc wines is interesting 
 because there is a singular relation between the prices of the 
 various growths. This relation remained the same in almost 
 all years, good or bad, the key-note always being the prices of 
 the three first growths. In favourable years the second 
 growth obtained 300 francs less than the first ; the third 300 
 francs less than the second, and so on, so that the wines of the 
 fifth class obtained just one-half of the price of the first cla,ss, 
 which we here assume to have been 2,400 francs the tonneau at 
 the time of the first spring racking. But the wines of Chiteau 
 Margaux and Latour have now for many years been sold by 
 contract at a fixed price of 2,100 francs the tonneau, whether 
 the vintage was good or bad, and have not entered the general 
 market at all ; consequently the trade was reduced to Lafitte 
 as a regulator of the prices of the other classes. But owing to 
 the contraction of the market, the prices of Lafitte became 
 enormously high, and the prices of the lower classes could no 
 longer be regulated by its standard with the scale formerly in 
 use. This change has greatly improved the value of the 
 second-class wines, but has had no corresponding effect on 
 wines of the fifth class, which now sell only at half the price 
 of the second class, instead of as formerly at half the price 
 of the first-class growths. 
 
 In estimating the average prices of the M6doc wines, the 
 prices obtained in great years should be eliminated ; these 
 are exceptional, as the following will show: — In 1844 a 
 quantity of Lafitte was sold from the castle at 4,500 frs. the 
 tonneau; Haut Brion at 3,000 frs. ; Mouton, 2,500 frs. ; 
 Lagrange, 1,900 frs. ; Kir wan, 1850 frs. ; Giscours, 1,800 frs. ; 
 
332 
 
 SALES IN THE MEDOC. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Langoa Barton, i,6oofrs. These are maximum prices, 
 occurring once in a century. The second growths, which 
 rose to 2,500 frs. in 1844, do not fetch more than from 
 1,200 to 1,400 frs. the tonneau in ordinary years; the wines 
 of the third class fetch ordinarily from 800 to 1,000 frs., the 
 fourth class little less ; the wines of the fifth class in ordinary 
 years do not exceed 600 or 700 frs. 
 
 The same applies to other wines of the M6doc : the 
 bourgeois sup^rieurs in 1844 were sold at from 1,000 to 
 1,200 frs. ; the bons bourgeois ordinaires at from 700 to 
 800 frs. The paysans of Pauillac and Margaux obtain 
 prices which are about one-half of the wines of the fifth 
 class, but in 1844 they were sold at prices rising to 600 and 
 650 frs. ; in ordinary years their price is about 300 frs. From 
 these considerations we derive the following scale of prices 
 for average growths : — 
 
 1st class 
 
 
 2,000 to 5,000 
 
 znd class 
 
 
 1,200 to 1,400 
 
 3rd class 
 
 
 800 to 900 
 
 4th class 
 
 
 700 to 900 
 
 5th class 
 
 
 600 to 700 
 
 Bourgeois 
 
 sup. 
 
 400 to 500 
 
 Do. 
 
 ordinaires 
 
 350 to 400 
 
 Paysans 
 
 
 300 to 325 
 
 The prices of the latter wines are curiously alike in all 
 villages of the Medoc. As the travelling brokers cross the 
 country, a uniformity of price is established, which greatly 
 astonishes those who do not know the machinery by which it 
 is brought about. 
 
 MODE OF EFFECTING SALES IN THE MfiDOC. 
 
 Sales are mostly effected through brokers, who know the 
 districts and all their varieties and accidents : they visit the 
 cellars, taste the wines, and classify them. It is not uncommon 
 for them to raise or reduce the rank of a certain growth accord- 
 ing to the care which has been bestowed upon the cultivation 
 of the vine, and upon vinification. The merchants of Bordeaux 
 mostly rely upon the judgment of these brokers, but the growers 
 
X.] CONSUMPTION OF MEDOC WINES. 333 
 
 are often dissatisfied with it, and complain of their arbitrary 
 estimates. Ultimately the growers cannot hold out, and 
 submit with grumbling to the guides of the world's commerce. 
 
 CONSUMPTION OF MfiDOC WINES. 
 
 The first-class wines are scarcely ever drunk in France, 
 but go to foreign parts. England is the principal consumer 
 of the best qualities of Mddoc ; lower classes go to Holland, 
 Russia, and particularly the north of Germany. 
 
 The M6dpc wines going to England are sometimes — and 
 were formerly more frequently than at present — prepared, 
 specially before exportation, by being mixed with wine from 
 the east or centre of France, or with brandy. The fine wines 
 are mixed with red Hermitage, in order to please better the 
 palates accustomed to ports and other strong alcoholic drinks. 
 Such wines obtain thereby a warmth and spirituosity which 
 is by no means natural to them, and lose much of their 
 juicy softness and finesse. Persons of knowledge recognize 
 such wines at once, and put them into their proper places. 
 But numbers of wealthy consumers know no better, and 
 drink the mixture as genuine and pure. The amount of 
 mixing carried on at Bordeaux is incredible ; for its exports 
 are twelve times as great as the production of the entire 
 M6doc, and one-half of these exports sells as Bordeaux wine, 
 so that it is quite fair to assume that the Gironde wine is 
 multiplied several times by the addition or sulsstitution of 
 other wines of France, the Gard furnishing alcohol and 
 colour, the wheat-land of the Miconnais producing the 
 acidity, and all other parts of France the special subordinate 
 needed ingredients. 
 
 We have ourselves witnessed on the quay at Bordeaux 
 the addition of brandy to red wines of ordinary quality 
 destined for exportation to England. This admixture is by 
 no means uncommon, but it never reaches the amount 
 common with Portuguese red wines. Bordeaux wine rarely 
 exceeds 10 per cent, in its alcoholicity ; while ports have 
 from 19 to 20 per cent, or double the strength of Bordeaux 
 wines. The exporters allege that this addition is made to 
 
334 
 
 STyl T/ST/CS, d^c. OF MEDOC WWES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 suit the English palate, and is by no means required as a 
 preservative of the wine. We have therefore here the 
 elements of agreement ready for a solution. For the con- 
 sumers need only say that they desire to have the wine 
 without the adventitious brandy ; and the exporters, if they 
 have- spoken truly, will at once leave it out. 
 
 STATISTICS OF VITICULTURAL PROPERTY AND PRODUC- 
 TION OF THE MEDOC. 
 
 {Showing under the name of each commune the names of the proprietors of vineyards^ 
 and the average number of hogsheads of wine annually produced. ) 
 
 BLANQUEFORT. 
 
 Red Wines. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. ' 
 
 Dulamon . . 
 
 Albrecht . . 
 
 360 to 440 
 
 Mataplan . . 
 
 Delisse . . . 
 
 80 to 
 
 ICO 
 
 Fleurennes . . 
 
 Tatset . . . 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 i 
 
 Ferry (Antoine) 
 
 48,, 
 
 72 
 
 Chateau Dillon 
 
 Seignouret . . 
 
 480 „ 600 
 
 Arboudaut . < 
 
 Ferry (Jean) . 
 
 48,, 
 
 72 
 
 Chateau St. 
 
 
 
 ( 
 
 Meymat(Pierre) 
 
 48,, 
 
 72 
 
 Ahon . . . 
 
 De Matha . . 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Laubarede . . 
 
 Paillotte . 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Olivier . . . 
 
 Aviragnet . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Reaud . . . 
 
 Caboy . . 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 Linas. . . . 
 
 Clossman . . 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 Lagoublaye 
 
 D'Albessard . 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 Montheuilh. . 
 
 St. Quentin . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Sonios . . 
 
 Veuve Tastet 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 Cholet . . . 
 
 Bechade . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Canteret. 
 
 Bidou . . . 
 
 40 !, 
 
 48 
 
 Chateau Deluz 
 
 Delisse . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Malajeme . 
 
 Baziadoliq 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 Curgan . . . 
 
 Lafon . . . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 1 Vendure . 
 
 Tastet . . . 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 Clapot . . . 
 
 Chauvot . . . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Cambon . . . 
 
 I.arrieu . . 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 Maurian . . . 
 
 Degrange-Tou- 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 1 Corne . . . 
 
 Mme. Rols . . 
 
 32 .. 
 
 40 
 
 
 zin. 
 
 
 I Muratel . . . 
 
 DePichon . . 
 
 24 .. 
 
 40 
 
 Chateau Breil- 
 
 
 
 1 Taveau . . . 
 
 Marrauld . . 
 
 20 ,, 
 
 40 
 
 lan . . . 
 
 Portal . . . 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 Bounard . . . 
 
 Heritiers Bou- 
 
 20 ,, 
 
 40 
 
 Palu Baubens . 
 
 Grimal . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 
 nard. 
 
 
 
 Dasvin Belair . 
 
 Bechade . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Badin . . 
 
 Ve. Badin . . 
 
 32 ,, 
 
 AO 
 
 Palu de la lalle 
 Duportail . . 
 Frichon . . . 
 
 Portal . . . 
 Courregolles . 
 Ginoulhiac . \ 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Several small 
 of whom pre 
 
 owners, some 
 jduce from 20 > 
 
 900 ,,1000 
 
 Salesse . . . 
 
 Do. . . i 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 to 40 hhds. 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 White Wines. 
 
 Chateau Dillon 
 Dulamon . . 
 Montheuil . . 
 I.agoub'iye 
 
 Seigiiouret . 
 Albrecht 
 Wuillaume . 
 D'Albessard 
 
 Hhd 
 
 . 
 
 80 to 
 
 100 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 20 ,, 
 
 32 
 
 Vendure 
 Chateau 
 Ahon . 
 Cholet . 
 
 St. 
 
 Tastet . 
 
 De Matha 
 Bechade . 
 
 Hhds. 
 20 to 32 
 
 20 , 
 
 i6 ; 
 
 40 
 24 
 
X.] 
 
 STATISTICS, &'r. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 335 
 
 LUDON. 
 
 Red Wines. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Chateau d'A- 
 
 
 I 
 
 VillagedeLafon 
 
 Bethraann . . 
 
 60 to 72 
 
 gassac . . 
 
 Richier . . . 
 
 600 to 800' 
 
 La Lagune . 
 
 Jouny . . . 
 
 48,, 60 
 
 Paloumey . . 
 
 Aguirre Vegoa 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Darche . . . 
 
 Labouthe . . 
 
 48,, 60 
 
 
 Uribaren. 
 
 1 
 
 Lataste Cante- 
 
 Les heritiers 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 La Lagune . . 
 
 Mme. Veuve 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 loup. 
 
 Constantin. 
 
 
 
 Joffrey. 
 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 De St. Georges. 
 
 24 „ 32 
 
 Darche . . . 
 
 Eymond . . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Darche . . . 
 
 Doumeret . . 
 
 24 .. 32 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Veuve de Baca- 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Trevie . . . 
 
 24 » 32 
 
 
 lan. 
 
 
 VillagedeLafon 
 
 Devignes . . 
 
 24.. 32 
 
 Darche . . . 
 
 Les heritiers 
 
 72 „ 88 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Veuve Larausa 
 
 24 » 32 
 
 
 Larausa. 
 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Lestage . . . 
 
 24 „ 32 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Larausa Math- 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 VignoUes . . 
 
 20 „ 24 
 
 
 ieu dit Ma9on 
 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Andraut . . . 
 
 20 ,, 24 
 
 Blsaudun . . 
 
 Ferrussac de 
 Gravol. 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Patoumey . . 
 
 Goubineau . . 
 
 20 ,, 24 
 
 
 A few small proprietors growing 1 6 hhds. and under. 
 
 
 LE TAILLAN. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Chateau du 
 
 Viscount de 
 
 600 to 800 
 
 Germignan . . 
 
 Pal. Bidon . . 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 
 Barrelli. 
 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 
 40 „ 60 
 40 „ 60 
 
 Domaine de 
 
 
 
 Lagorce . . . 
 
 Veuve Abadie . 
 
 Busaquet . . 
 
 Veuve Lapeniie 
 Gustave Cure . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 L'AUemagne . 
 
 G. Salzedo . . 
 
 40,, 48 
 
 Germignan . . 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 C. Guestier. . 
 
 32 „ 72 
 
 L'AUemagne . 
 
 Veuve Janesse . 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Germignan . , 
 
 Montalieu . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Lagorce . . . 
 
 Veuve Igonet . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 G. Salzedo . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 F. Ginoulhiac . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Barbefer . . . 
 
 24,, 40 
 
 Germignan . . 
 
 Reglade . . . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Ginoulhiac . . 
 
 24 » 40 
 
 LE PIAN. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Maurian . . 
 
 Vergne-Dupuch 
 
 240 to 320 
 
 Lamouroux . 
 
 De Maignol 
 
 48 to 72 
 
 Chateau de 
 
 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Sisters of Cha- 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Sendjac . . 
 
 J. Causse . . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 
 rity. 
 
 
 Basterot - Mal- 
 
 
 
 Moulin de 
 
 
 
 leret . . . 
 
 Sicard . . . 
 
 160 „ 240 
 
 Soubiran . . 
 
 L. Tardieu . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Gaube,Genissan 
 
 Nicolas . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Louens . . . 
 
 Several small 
 
 60,, 80 
 
 De Bacalan . 
 
 Veuve de Ba- 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 
 growers. 
 
 
 
 calan. 
 
 
 Poujeaur . . 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 80 „ 120 
 
 Lamouroux 
 
 Letu Bros. . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 
 
 
336 
 
 STATISTICS, &'c. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 
 
 PAREMPUYRE. 
 
 Graves. 
 
 
 
 Chateau de Pa- 
 
 rempuyre 
 Le Vigneau 
 
 De Pichon . . 
 Veuve Both de 
 Tauzia. 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 80 to 100 
 48,, 60 
 
 Ch. Segur (for- 
 merly) . . 
 Lilot . . . 
 L'llle d'Ares . 
 
 Gueyrand . . 
 Veuve Rondeau 
 Destanque . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 72 to 80 
 
 32 „ 40 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Palus. 
 
 Labouret . . 
 Cadillac . . . 
 
 Yvoy .... 
 Boissiere . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 200 to 240 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Mossac . . . 
 Bordes . . . 
 
 Lafonta . . . 
 Veuve Both de 
 Tauzia. 
 
 Hhds. 
 60 to 80 
 48 „ 60 
 
 ARSAC. 
 
 
 1 Hhds. 
 
 1 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Le Tertre . . 
 
 C. Heniy . . 240 to 280 
 
 Bel-Air . . . 
 
 Hosten de Ma- 
 
 60 to 72 
 
 Chateau d'Ar- 
 
 
 
 
 cau. 
 
 
 sac . . . . 
 
 C. Montmejean 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Canteloup . . 
 
 Dutruch . . . 
 
 48,, 64 
 
 Brown . . . 
 
 Parisian Com- 
 
 120 ,, i£o 
 
 Lambale 
 
 Jadouin . . . 
 
 40,, 48 
 
 
 pany. 
 
 
 Aux Pys . . 
 
 Lambert . . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Baury . . 
 
 Desmirail . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Montpontet . . 
 
 Chapaz . . . 
 
 32,, 60 
 
 Deyrem et le 
 
 
 
 Ligondra . . 
 
 Dubos . . . 
 
 32,, 40 
 
 Poujeaux 
 
 Pescatore . . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Blanchard . . 
 
 32 » 40 
 
 
 
 
 Montbrison . . 
 
 Feuillebois . . 
 
 20,, 24 
 
 
 Eight or ten growers producing from 16 to 
 
 24 hhds. 
 
 
 MACAU. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Cantemerle . . 
 
 Baron de Ville- 
 neuve. 
 
 480 to 520 
 
 Gironville . . 
 
 Duffour-Duber- 
 gier. 
 
 140 to 160 
 
 Chateau de 
 
 
 
 La Biche . . 
 
 VieiUard . . 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Maucamp . 
 
 AguirreVengoa 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 Terre-Fort . . 
 
 Vieillard . . 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 La Houringe . 
 
 Duteau Burk . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Bern .... 
 
 Dugravier . . 
 
 I20 ,, 140 
 
 La Pelouse . . 
 
 Betge-Lagarde. 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Guitot . . . 
 
 Lacou'.ure . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Chateau des 
 
 Veuve Duran- 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Bern .... 
 
 De Massip . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 TroisMoulins 
 
 teau. 
 
 
 Moulin de Du- 
 
 
 Chateau de 
 
 
 
 mey . . . 
 
 Attier, sen. . . 
 
 48,, 60 
 
 Priban . . 
 
 Chadeuil . . 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Rabaud . . . 
 
 Attier, jun. . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 A great number of growers, not cla 
 
 ssified, producing 
 
 from 8 to 28 hh 
 
 ds. 
 
 The Palus of Macau contains some very large estates, anc 
 
 is capable of p 
 
 reducing 
 
 from 4,000 to 6,000 hhds. 
 
 
 
X.] 
 
 STA TISTICS, &-C. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 337 
 
 LABARDE. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Giscours . . 
 
 Pescatore '. . 
 
 200 to 240 
 
 Chstteau Siran . 
 
 Countess de 
 
 160 to 180 
 
 Faget . . . 
 
 Geneste . . . 
 
 180 „ 200 
 
 
 Lautrec. 
 
 
 Bellegarde . . 
 
 Chevalier de 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Risteau . . . 
 
 Dubignon . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 
 Lynch. 
 
 
 Deyrem . . . 
 
 Capbem . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Bourgarde . . 
 
 De Lachapelle. 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 
 
 
 Some small proprietors growing from 2 to 12 hhds., which are sold about one-third 
 
 cheaper than 'Oa.&petits bourgeois. 
 
 CANTENAC. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Chiteaud'Issan 
 
 Blanchy . . 
 
 280 to 320 
 
 Tour Massac . 
 
 Jeanfort - Dar- 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 Chateau Brane- 
 
 
 
 
 quie. 
 
 
 Cantenac 
 
 Baron de Brane 
 
 280 ,, 320 
 
 A Teanfort . . 
 
 Goudat . . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Palmer-Pereire. 
 
 E. Pereire . . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Marian . . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Boys .... 
 
 Grommard . . 
 
 240 „ 260 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Chartron . . 
 
 12 „ 20 
 
 Klrwan . . . 
 
 Godard . . . 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 A Jeanfort . . 
 
 Blanchard . . 
 
 16 „ 24 
 
 Martinens . . 
 
 Gamier . . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Guillot . . . 
 
 20 ,, 28 
 
 Angludet - Le - 
 
 Sundry propri- 
 
 
 Issan .... 
 
 Mariot . . . 
 
 24 .. 32 
 
 gras. 
 
 etors . . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Mane . . . 
 
 20 „ 28 
 
 Pouget . . . 
 
 De Chevailles . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Bacquey . . 
 
 20 „ 24 
 
 Le Prieure . . 
 
 Pagte . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Port Aubin (la 
 
 Coimt de Ma- 
 
 
 De Pohtac". . 
 
 Eyrem . . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 palus). 
 
 rolles . . 
 
 600 ,, 800 
 
 Ganets . . . 
 
 De Lassalle 
 
 40 „ 60 
 
 
 
 
 MARGAUX. 
 
 Chateau Mar- 
 
 gaux. 
 Rauzan . . . 
 
 Durfort . . . 
 
 De Therme 
 Weltener . . 
 Rauzan Gassies 
 Lanoire . . . 
 La Colonic . . 
 L'Abbe Gorse . 
 Desmirail . . 
 Malescot . . 
 Danglade . . 
 
 Marquis Agu- 
 ado . . ■ 
 
 Count de Castle- 
 pert. 
 
 Count de Puy- 
 segur. 
 
 Solberg . 
 
 Vastapani 
 
 Chabrier 
 
 Lanoire . 
 
 Fourcade 
 
 Veuve de Gorse 
 
 Cipiire . 
 
 Fourcade 
 
 Danglade 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 400 to 
 220,, 
 
 440 
 240 
 
 160 ,, 
 
 200 
 
 160,, 
 160 „ 
 
 180 
 180 
 
 120 „ 
 120 „ 
 100 „ 
 
 140 
 140 
 120 
 
 100 „ 
 
 80 „ 
 72,, 
 60 „ 
 
 120 
 
 lOO 
 
 80 
 
 80 
 
 Sequin . . . Heritiers Micau 
 
 Dubignon . . Dubignon, J. . 
 
 Do. . . . Dubignon, P. . 
 Ferriire ... P. Ferri^re 
 
 Dugravey . . Dugravey 
 
 Lacroix . . . Eyquem . 
 
 Lasconibe . . Miss Hue 
 
 Cadillon . . Cadillon. 
 
 Montpontet . Chapaz . 
 
 Seguineau . . Duthil . 
 
 Do. . . , Feuillebois 
 D'Alesme 
 
 (Becker) . . Sznajderski . 
 
 Ten or twelve smaller growers 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 72 to 
 
 80 
 
 16,, 
 
 24 
 
 60 ,, 
 
 72 
 
 24 » 
 
 40 
 
 40 :, 
 
 48 
 
 40,, 
 
 48 
 
 40,, 
 
 60 
 
 32,. 
 
 40 
 
 40.. 
 
 48 
 
 40,, 
 
 48 
 
 lb„ 
 
 20 
 
 16 „ 
 
 20 
 
 320,, 
 
 360 
 
338 
 
 STATISTICS, &-f. OF MEDOC WINJES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 SOUSANS. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 Chateau Paveil 
 
 Minvielle . . 
 
 560 to 600 
 
 Gd. Sousans . 
 
 Dayries . . . 
 
 100 to 
 
 IS2 
 
 Chaieau Latour 
 
 
 
 Deyrem . ■ . . 
 
 Deyrem, V. ■ . 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 de Mons . . 
 
 De Lajeard 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Van-Beynum- . 
 
 • — -^ ■ ■ 
 
 ■60 „ 
 
 72 
 
 Chateau Bel Au- 
 
 Marchioness de 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Toujague . . 
 
 Gauteyron; C; . 
 
 60 „ 
 
 So 
 
 
 Pomereu. • 
 
 
 A Marsac . . 
 
 J.ATnaudDouat 
 
 60 „. 
 
 72 
 
 Capelle . . . 
 
 Vastapani . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Do. . , 
 
 -J.- Miqueau . ' . 
 
 60 „ 
 
 72 
 
 Larigaudiere . 
 
 Larigaudiere . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Au Maucaillon 
 
 R. Maurin . . 
 
 40-, 
 
 60 
 
 SeguineauDay- 
 
 
 
 A Virefougaas^ ' C. Douat . . 
 
 40,, 
 
 60 
 
 nes . . . 
 
 Dayries . . . 
 
 l6o ,, l8o 
 
 A Marsac .„4.,d. 
 
 Les heritiers 
 
 40,, 
 
 48 
 
 Pt. Barbot (for- 
 
 
 
 
 Morin. 
 
 
 
 merly) . . 
 
 Zede .... 
 
 140,, 160 
 
 Do, . . 
 
 Saintout . . . 
 
 40,, 
 
 48 
 
 Maucaillon . . 
 
 Dupuy . . . 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Au boarg . . 
 
 Peres . . . 
 
 40,. 
 
 48 
 
 De Gorse . . 
 
 Veuve de Gorse 
 
 120 ,, 166 
 
 A Marsac . . 
 
 Douat . . . 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Rambaud - Sia- 
 
 
 
 Palus de Meyre 
 
 Duffour . . . 
 
 32 ,. 
 
 40 
 
 moy . . . 
 
 Holagray . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Grand Meyre 
 
 
 
 
 Au Taillac 
 
 Holagray, A. . 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 (Palus) 
 
 I.anoire . . . 
 
 400,. 
 
 480 
 
 AYENSAN. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 fthds. 
 
 Chateau Citran 
 
 Clauzel . . . 
 
 1000 toi 200 
 
 Bouneau . . 
 
 Perrogon . ' . 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 Marteau . . . 
 
 Estebe . . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Le Pont . . . 
 
 Sundry owners. 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 La Cure . . 
 
 Dufresne . '. 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Belair 
 
 Dubos . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Mallet, Primat, 
 
 
 
 Vellegorre . ' , 
 
 Hauchecorne . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Pelin , . . 
 
 Sundryowners 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Laprade . . . 
 
 Sundry growers 
 
 '40 „ 48 
 
 Romefort . . 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 K\\ bourg , . 
 
 Metria . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Laudire . . . 
 
 Do. 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 
 
 
 CASTELNAU. 
 
 Chateau Mau- 
 
 vesin . 
 Chateau Pom- 
 
 mes . . 
 CivaiUant . 
 Bergeron, Pierre 
 GoutierLalande 
 Mrs. Marcou 
 Duprat 
 Bacou 
 
 St. Guirons . 
 Videau . . 
 Soret . . . 
 Mouges . . 
 
 Mauvesin 
 Chateau 
 
 St. Guirons . 
 L. Videau . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 400 to 480 
 
 280 ,, 
 
 320 
 
 280 ,. 
 
 320 
 
 120,, 
 
 140 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 IOO„ 
 
 120 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 TOO „ 
 
 120 
 
 80 „ 
 
 lOO 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 Galan 
 Jeanty . 
 Trigaud . 
 Bernadet 
 Robin 
 Delarose 
 Renoiiil . 
 Robin 
 Dardan . 
 Gachet . 
 Taudinot 
 Delhomme 
 Eeaubois 
 Moreau . 
 
 Monereau 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 72 to 80, 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 ■48 ,,■ 60 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 40 
 40 
 32 
 32 
 
 '24 
 
 48 
 40 
 40 
 32 
 
 There are also many smaller proprietors, growing from 8oo to j,200. 
 
X.] 
 
 STA TISTICS, &'c. OF MEDOC WINES-. 
 
 339 
 
 MOULIS. 
 
 Chateau Pou,- 
 
 geaud . . . 
 
 Chateau Mau- 
 
 i)u- 
 
 vesin. 
 Chateau 
 
 plessis. 
 Ruat .... 
 Grand Poujeaud 
 Gastebois ,. ,. 
 Brillette . . '. 
 
 Do. . .. ;. 
 
 Grand Poujeaud 
 Couqueyran 
 Louet au-neuf 
 
 Do. 
 Grand Poujeaud 
 
 Do. \ 
 
 Petit Poujeaud 
 
 Do. 
 Maliney . . 
 Grand Poujeaud 
 Couqueyran 
 Brillette ; . 
 Petit Poujeaud 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Castaing-Belisie 
 
 360 to 400 
 
 Leblanc dp 
 
 
 Mauvesin , . 
 
 360 „ 400 
 
 L. Favre . ,. 
 
 280 ,, 320 
 
 Mrs. Menessier 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 J. J. Castaing . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Do. 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Duperrier . . . 
 
 200.,, 240 
 
 L. Anslients . 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 L. Renouil . . . 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Carrere . . . 
 
 160 ,, 180 
 
 Lamor^re, sen. 
 
 140 ,, 160 
 
 Lamorere, jun. 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Darquier . . . 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Franquet . . 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Viaud . . . 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 R. Richebon . 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 A. Hugon . . 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 Ducasse . . . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 D. Brun . . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Mrs. Menessier 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Savignac . . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Bourg . . . 
 
 Do 
 
 Grand Poujeaud 
 
 Do. 
 Petit Poujeaud 
 Bourg . . 
 Grand Poujeaud 
 Medrac . . 
 
 Do. . . 
 Bourg . . 
 Chaux . . . 
 Bourg . . 
 Grand Poujeaud 
 Couqueyran 
 
 Do. 
 Grand Poujeaud 
 
 Do. 
 Petit Poujeaud 
 Couqueyran 
 Medrac . . 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 E. Bergeron . 
 Bergeron ■ . .. 
 Delhomme. . • . 
 Dutruch . . . 
 Gaffre-Laune . 
 
 Gaflfre 
 
 R. Renouil . . 
 Lescontra - Ja- 
 
 nasse. 
 Martin-Richet . 
 Hostein . 
 
 A. Hostein 
 Merie . . 
 Robert . 
 Martin . 
 P. Martin 
 Raymond - Ra- 
 
 mounille. 
 Marie . . . 
 H. Hugon . . . 
 Hauchecorne . 
 
 B. Raymond 
 Lescontra- Lan 
 
 nelier. 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 80 to 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , 100 
 
 80 , 
 
 , 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , 106 
 
 86, 
 
 , 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , roo 
 
 80, 
 
 , 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , 100 
 
 80, 
 
 , lOO 
 
 60, 
 
 , 80 
 
 60, 
 
 , 80 
 
 60, 
 
 , 80 
 
 60, 
 
 , 80 
 
 60, 
 
 , 80 
 
 60, 
 
 , 80 
 
 40 
 
 , 60 
 
 60, 
 
 , 80 
 
 LISTRAC, 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Roullet . 
 
 Dupre . . . 
 
 320 to 400 
 
 Peyrelevade . 
 
 Berdon . 
 
 240 to 320 
 
 Lestage . . . 
 
 St. Guirons 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Veyrin . . 
 
 Hostin . . . 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 Hdsten 
 
 B. de St. Af- 
 frique. 
 
 240 „ 320 
 
 Do. . 
 
 Au bourg de 
 
 Virac. . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Laburthe . 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 240 „ 320 
 
 Listrac . . 
 
 Richebon . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Fonreau . . . 
 
 Leblanc de 
 
 400,, 600 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Raymond . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 
 Mauvesin. 
 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 80 „ 104 
 
 Bourgade 
 
 Bourgade . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Bounet . . . 
 
 Bounet . . . 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Baudan 
 
 Lambert 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Clark . . . 
 
 Abiet . . . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Jautard . . . 
 
 Cazeaux . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 ARCINS. 
 
 Chateau d'Ar; 
 
 cins . 
 Malescot . 
 Larocde Forges 
 Cru de Bar 
 
 reyres. 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Subercazeaux , 
 
 600 to 640 
 
 Do. 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 C. Fauche . . 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 Dup. de Lar- 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 . . san. 
 
 
 P. Renouil . . 
 
 .80 „ 100 
 
 Cru de 
 
 mond . 
 Au bourg 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 Tra- 
 
 Baron . . 
 Bosq, Bros. 
 Lartique . . 
 Baziadolit,Bros. 
 Robert . . . 
 Pinet 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 72 to 
 72 „ 
 60 „ 
 
 72 >. 
 60 „ 
 60 „ 
 
 Z 2 
 
340 
 
 STATIST/CS, A'c. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 LAMARQUE. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Pigneguy - Mer- 
 
 
 
 Picaille . . . 
 
 Hostein . . . 
 
 40 to 48 
 
 cadier . 
 
 Pigneguy . . 
 
 240 to 280 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Pineau . . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Bergeron . . 
 
 De la Neufville 
 
 400 „ 520 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Soleillan . . 
 
 32 ), 40 
 
 
 and Darmana 
 
 
 Picaille . . . 
 
 Chazeau . . . 
 
 32 » 40 
 
 Chateau La- 
 
 
 
 Rue des Milous 
 
 Baziadoliq . . 
 
 68 „ 80 
 
 mai-que . . 
 
 Count deFumel 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 GriUet . . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Le Cartillon . 
 
 Bethmann . . 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 Calenotes . . 
 
 Carasset . . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Lafon, au bourg 
 
 B. Capdeville., 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 BouUe . . . 
 
 24 » 32 
 
 N. do. . 
 
 J. Rosset . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Bergeon . . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 N. do. . 
 
 Meyre . . . 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Renouil . . . 
 
 40,, ,48 
 
 Chateau Male- 
 
 
 
 Rue des Milous 
 
 Sahuc . . . 
 
 24 >> 32 
 
 casse . . . 
 
 Renouil . . . 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Graneau . . 
 
 24 „ 32 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Veuve Bergeron 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Valentin . . 
 
 24 ,, 32 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Saintout . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Nouchet . . 
 
 24 >, 32 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Barbie, sen. 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Au bourg . - 
 
 J. Bergeron 
 
 24.. 32 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Barbie . . . 
 
 48,, 60 
 
 Calenotes . . 
 
 Veuve Bose . 
 
 24 ,, 32 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Bacquey-Titon 
 
 48,, 60 
 
 Rue des Milous 
 
 Blanc . . . 
 
 24,, 28 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Monties . . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 J. Arnaud . . 
 
 24 ,, 28 
 
 Calenotes . . 
 
 Meyre . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Segonnes . . 
 
 20 „ 24 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Boue .... 
 
 40,, 48 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Veuve GriUet . 
 
 20,, 24 
 
 About 
 
 ten other proprietors, produ 
 
 :ing together fror 
 
 n 100 to 120 hhds. 
 
 CUSSAC. 
 
 Beaumont 
 
 
 St. Gemme 
 
 
 Lanessan 
 
 
 Bernones 
 
 
 Lamothes 
 
 
 Raux . . 
 
 
 Romefort 
 
 
 A Mouneins 
 
 
 Do. . 
 
 
 Do. . 
 
 
 Beaumont 
 
 
 Salva 
 
 
 A Mouneins 
 
 
 Becaanil . 
 
 
 A Martin 
 
 
 A Gaston 
 
 
 A Mouneins 
 
 
 Becamil . 
 
 
 A Jacquet 
 Au bourg 
 A Coudot 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 Bonin . . . 
 
 480 to 1520 1 
 
 Phelan . . . 
 
 400 ,, 
 
 450 
 
 L. Delbos . . 
 
 ^■2■o „ 
 
 340 
 
 Boue . . . . 
 
 200 ,, 
 
 220 
 
 De Bergeron . 
 
 i6o ,, 
 
 180 
 
 Bonin . . , 
 
 160 ,, 
 
 180 
 
 Badoux . . . 
 
 120 „ 
 
 140 
 
 Mars . . . . 
 
 120 „ 
 
 140 
 
 Giraud . . . 
 
 120 „ 
 
 J 40 
 
 Heritiers Ben- 
 
 q6„ 
 
 X\2 
 
 sac. 
 
 
 
 Guestier 
 
 8rt , 
 
 lOO 
 
 De Camino 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 Renouil . . . 
 
 80 „ 
 
 IOC 
 
 Ducru . . . 
 
 So,, 
 
 too 
 
 Pagan . , . 
 
 So,, 
 
 100 
 
 Eyrera- Vital . 
 
 80, 
 
 ICO 
 
 Bosq . . . . 
 
 72 . 
 
 80 
 
 Dubos . . . 
 
 72 . 
 
 80 
 
 Veuve Miot . 
 
 64,, 
 
 72 
 
 VeuveBousquet 
 
 60, 
 
 72 
 
 Delhomme . . 
 
 60 „ 
 
 72 
 
 A Gaston . 
 
 A Peylande 
 
 A Coudot 
 Au bourg 
 
 Do. 
 Do. 
 A Goua . 
 Do. . 
 
 A Lauga 
 A Mouneins 
 
 Do. 
 A Coste 
 A Coudot 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 Au bourg 
 
 Do. ^ 
 
 A Arnausan 
 
 A Coite . . 
 
 Heritiers Lam- 
 bert. 
 
 Delhomme'-Ber 
 lingue. 
 
 Audouin 
 
 Veuve Teyche- 
 nau. 
 
 R. Pate . 
 
 Badoux-Fraizot 
 
 Bensac . 
 
 Lestage . 
 
 Saintout . 
 
 Lartigue 
 
 Bosq-Guillemot 
 
 Daubos . . 
 
 Grenier . . 
 
 P. Hosten . 
 
 Lartigue 
 
 Lassaubade 
 
 Duverge 
 
 B. Dubos . 
 
 Saintout, jun. 
 
 Hhds 
 
 
 60 to 
 
 72 
 
 60 „ 
 
 72 
 
 S6„ 
 
 64 
 
 56,. 
 
 64 
 
 48., 
 
 60 
 
 48.. 
 
 60 
 
 4S,. 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 40 .. 
 
 48 
 
 40.. 
 
 48 
 
 40.. 
 
 48 
 
 40,, 
 
 48 
 
X.] 
 
 STA TISTICS, &-f. OF MEVOC WINES. 
 
 34f 
 
 
 ST 
 
 JULIEN DE KEIGNAC. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Lagrange . . 
 
 Count Duchatel 
 
 600 to 800 
 
 Au bourg 
 
 . Saux .... 
 
 80 to 100 
 
 Leoville . . . 
 
 Marquis de Las- 
 
 400 „ 600 
 
 Beychevelle 
 
 . Lagarde. . . 
 
 40 , 
 
 60 
 
 
 cases. 
 
 
 Au bourg 
 
 . Bonnin . . - 
 
 48, 
 
 60 
 
 Langoa . . . 
 
 Barton . . . 
 
 400 „ 600 
 
 Hortevie 
 
 . P. Roux . . . 
 
 48, 
 
 60 
 
 Leoville. . . 
 
 Barton . . . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Au boure 
 
 . Delor . . . 
 
 32 , 
 
 40 
 
 Beaucailloii 
 
 Ducru . . . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Do. , 
 
 . F, Davia . . 
 
 32 , 
 
 40 
 
 Beychevelle . 
 
 F.Gueslier,jun. 
 
 560 „ 600 
 
 Do. . 
 
 . Metie . . - 
 
 ■28, 
 
 32 
 
 Bourdieu . . 
 
 Veuve Duluc . 
 
 4D0„ 560 
 
 Do. . 
 
 . Montpontet 
 
 24 , 
 
 32 
 
 Gruau Larose . 
 
 Heritiers des 
 
 4CX) ,, 600 
 
 Do. . 
 
 . E. Reynard. . 
 
 24 , 
 
 32 
 
 
 Bon. Sarget, 
 
 
 Do. . 
 
 . Meric . . . 
 
 24, 
 
 32 
 
 
 Bethman,and 
 
 
 Beychevelle 
 
 . Heritiers F. 
 
 28, 
 
 32 
 
 
 Veuve Bois- 
 
 
 
 Legarde . . 
 
 
 
 
 regard. 
 
 
 Do. . 
 
 . Bacquey . 
 
 24, 
 
 28 
 
 Talbot . . . 
 
 Count d'Aux . 
 
 280 „ 400 
 
 Hortevie 
 
 . Bernadet . . 
 
 24 . 
 
 28 
 
 LdoviUe. . . 
 
 Bon. de Poyfere 
 
 i6o „ 240 
 
 Beychevelle 
 
 . Dejean . . . 
 
 20, 
 
 28 
 
 Beychevelle . 
 
 De Bedout . . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Au bourg 
 
 . P. Bibeyran 
 
 20, 
 
 28 
 
 St. Pierre . . 
 
 Bontemps - Du- 
 
 140 ,i 200 
 
 Do. : 
 
 Veuve Blancan 
 
 20 , 
 
 24 
 
 
 bary. 
 
 
 Do. . 
 
 . P. Martin . . 
 
 20 , 
 
 24 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Veuve Rouillet 
 
 72 „ 100 
 72 „ 100 
 
 Beychevelle 
 Do. 
 
 P T alierm 
 
 24. 
 140 , 
 
 28 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Veuve Galou- 
 
 . Berthon . . . 
 
 180 
 
 
 peau. 
 
 
 — — 
 
 Cadillon La- 
 
 160, 
 
 2CO 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Bertrand . . 
 
 100 „ 140 
 
 
 barbe. 
 
 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 J. Marian . . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Beychevelle 
 
 . Mitroche . 
 
 28, 
 
 32 
 
 Beychevelle 
 
 Vignallet , . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 . — — 
 
 Sainton . . . 
 
 48, 
 
 60 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Jattin . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Beychevelle 
 
 . Martin . . . 
 
 24, 
 
 28 
 
 Do. . 
 
 Veuve Mondon 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 La Bridane 
 
 . Gautier . . . 
 
 It, 
 
 24 
 
 Hortevia . . 
 
 Morin freres 
 aines. 
 
 72 „ 100 
 
 
 
 
 
 PAUILLAC AND ST. LAJIBERT. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 ■ 
 
 Chateau Lafitte 
 
 Rothschild . . 
 
 400 to 600 
 
 Pauillac . 
 
 Chateau Latour 
 
 De Beaumont . 
 
 280,, 360 
 
 Do. . 
 
 Mouton . . . 
 
 — — 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 Do. . 
 
 A St. Lambert. 
 
 DePichon-Lon 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 Do, . . 
 
 
 gueville. 
 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 A Canet . . 
 
 De Pontet . . 
 
 440 „ 600 
 
 
 Mouton . . . 
 
 D'Armailhacq . 
 
 400 „ 480 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 A Bages . . . 
 
 S. Jurijie . . 
 
 280 ,, 320 
 
 Au Pouyalet 
 
 Moussas . . 
 
 Vasquez . . . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 St. Lambert 
 
 A St. Lambert 
 
 P. Desse . . 
 
 240,, 320 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 A do. . . 
 
 Weltener . . 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 A Batailley . . 
 
 D. Guestier. . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 A Pauillac . . 
 
 Heritiers Du- 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 
 casse. 
 
 
 Pauillac . . 
 
 Milon . . . 
 
 Casteja . . . 
 
 400 „ 440 
 
 St. Lambert 
 
 Au Grand Puy 
 
 F. Lacoste . . 
 
 440 „ 480 
 
 Do. . 
 
 Bages . . . 
 
 Calve . . . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Mousset 
 
 sAu Pouyalet . 
 
 J. Martin . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 St. Lambert 
 
 St. Lambert . 
 
 Ferchaud . . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Pouyalet 
 
 Constant 
 
 Pedesclaux . 
 
 Lachaufrad . 
 
 Liberal . . 
 
 Heritiers Veuve 
 Casteja. 
 
 J. Desse . 
 
 Clerc . . . 
 
 Croisot . . 
 
 Veuve Daubos 
 
 Veuve Brunet 
 i Veuve Croiset 
 i P. Roux . . 
 I Escaraguel . 
 
 J. Eynard . 
 1 Despagne . 
 I J. Morange . 
 I Lamena . 
 j P. Maney . 
 
 H'hds. 
 
 '200 to 
 
 zto 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 IOO„ 
 
 120 
 
 60 „ 
 
 So 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 100 ,, 
 
 120 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 4«-, 
 
 60 
 
 56,, 
 
 72 
 
 40 .. 
 
 ,S2 
 
 So „ 
 
 100 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 3-''-. 
 
 40 
 
 32 ., 
 
 40 
 
 4«.. 
 
 60 
 
 
 
 
 
342 
 
 STATISTICS, 6r^<r. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 [CHAF. 
 
 PAUILLAC AND ST. LAMBERT — continued. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 St. Lambert . 
 
 P. Raymond . 
 
 32 to 
 
 40 
 
 Bages . . . 
 
 Pouyalet . . 
 
 40 to 48^ 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 P. Martin . . 
 
 32,, 
 
 40 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Alaire . . . 
 
 64,, 88 
 
 Au Pouyalet . 
 
 P. Arnaud ' . ' . 
 
 40,. 
 
 56 
 
 Do. . .. . 
 
 Daubos . . . 
 
 48,, 64 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Garrabey . . 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 St. Lambert . 
 
 Caula . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Bages . . . 
 
 Ardilley. . . 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 P. Lamena . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Milon . . . 
 
 Lagarde . . ' . 
 
 44., 
 
 56 
 
 Do. . . ;. 
 
 Veuve Lamena 
 
 .'80 „ 96 
 
 Anceilan . . 
 
 Eymerie . . 
 
 40,, 
 
 52 
 
 Bages . . . 
 
 Veuve Cholet . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Moudon . . . 
 
 ■48,, 
 
 60 
 
 Pauillac . . . 
 
 Claverie . . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Mousset . . . 
 
 Mathe . . _. 
 
 •60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Moreau . . . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Renyeard . '. 
 
 :4o„ 
 
 52 
 
 Padarnac . . 
 
 Bichon . . . 
 
 80 „ lOO 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Veuve Desse . 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 Pauillac . . . 
 
 Moreau . . . 
 
 32,, 40 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Gratian . . . 
 
 .32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Gaillard . . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Ribeau . . 
 
 56,, 
 
 72 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Bounivet . . 
 
 32,, 44 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Mege . . . 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Milon . . . 
 
 Hostein . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Artig^res . . 
 
 Chevery . . . 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 Pouillac . 
 
 Rabere . . 
 
 .60 „ 80 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Ardilley . . 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Veuve Duprat . 
 
 ^32 „ 40 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Brossard . . 
 
 40,, 
 
 48 
 
 Do. . 
 
 L. Desse . '.. 
 
 32 ,, 40 
 
 Bages . . . 
 
 Veuve Bichon . 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 ST. ESTEPHE. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Cos-Destoumel 
 
 ) ( 
 
 4.00 to 480 
 
 Marbuset . . 
 
 Plaignard . . 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 Cos-Labory 
 
 > Martyns . \ 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Veuve Campet 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Pomis . 
 
 \ i 
 
 280 ,, 320 
 
 Blanquet . . 
 
 Andron . ... 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Montrose 
 
 DumouUn . . 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 Leyssac & Mar- 
 
 Les heritiers 
 
 
 Calon . 
 
 Lestapis . . 
 
 4.80 „ 640 
 
 buset. 
 
 Mondon 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Rochet . . . 
 
 Lafon de Ca- 
 marsac. 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Marbuset . . 
 
 Les heritiers 
 Martin. 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 Lalande . . . 
 
 Tronquoy . . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 J. Seguin . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Le Bosq . . 
 
 DeCamiran,sen 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Leyssac . . . 
 
 Seguin . 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Morin, k St. 
 
 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Hostin, dit 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Corbian . . 
 
 L. de Camiran 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 
 Faton. 
 
 
 Couput . . . 
 
 Couput . 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Les heritiers 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Pez , . . . 
 
 De Tarteyron . 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 
 Bernard. 
 
 
 Croc . . 
 
 Merman . . 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Hostin . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Canteloup . . 
 
 Cazeau . . . 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 Leyssac . . 
 
 Teyssonneau . 
 
 80 ,, IOC 
 
 Segur and Ga- 
 
 
 
 Germain . . 
 
 Razeau . . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 ramey 
 
 Phelan . . . 
 
 800 „ 1000 
 
 Cos .... 
 
 Fauchey . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Houissant . 
 
 Bernard . . . 
 
 140 ,, 160 
 
 Marbuset 
 
 Etchevevery . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Les Ormes . . 
 
 Southard - Hos- 
 
 160 „ 240 
 
 Lureteyre . . 
 
 Figeron . . . 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 
 tein. 
 
 
 Do. 
 
 Grazillon . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Fond-Petit . . 
 
 Hostin, dit 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Canteloup 
 
 Bernard . ' . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 
 Faton. 
 
 
 Aillan . . . 
 
 Bernard, dit 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Meyney . . . 
 
 Luetkens . . 
 
 600 „ 800 
 
 
 Moulet. 
 
 
 Leyssac . . . 
 
 Bernard . . . 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 Canteloup 
 
 Deloude 
 
 40 ,, 60 
 
 Lahaye . . . 
 
 Asmus . 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Marbuset . 
 
 Vilain . . . 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Au bourg 
 
 Gasqueton 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 Do. 
 
 Desplats . ' 
 
 Carcasset 
 
 Martin . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Desse . . . 
 
 140 ,, 166 
 
 Leyssac . 
 
 Bonie 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Do. 
 
 Ducasse . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Ladouys 
 
 Barre 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 St. Corbian 
 
 Blanchereau . 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 Au bourg 
 
 Bert . . . 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 - Do. 
 
 Boyer . . . 
 
 ■80 ,, 100 
 
 Marbuset . . 
 
 Chambert . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Marbuset 
 
 Bichon . 
 
 40 „ 60 
 60 ,, 72 
 
 Canteloup . . 
 
 Bouillaud . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Leyssac . . ". 
 
 Prevosteau . '. 
 
 German . . . 
 
 Fatou . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Blanquet . . 
 
 Bernard . 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
X.] 
 
 STA TISriCS, &-C. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 343 
 
 ST. SEURIN DE CADOURNE. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds 
 
 Senillac . . 
 
 Coiffard . . 
 
 520 to 600 
 
 Le Mont . . 
 
 Rousseau . . 
 
 80 to 100 
 
 Doyac . .. .. 
 
 Chabaunes . . 
 
 400 „ 500 
 
 Au bourg . , . 
 
 Seilhan . . , . 
 
 ,60, 
 
 80 
 
 Coufran . . . 
 
 De Verthamon 
 
 400 „ 440 
 
 Cadourne . . 
 
 Nouet . . . 
 
 72 . 
 
 100 
 
 Verdignan . . 
 
 De Parouty .. 
 
 400 „ 440 
 
 Le Mont . . 
 
 Mace . ... 
 
 6q, 
 
 80 
 
 LeTralle . . 
 
 Eigerou . . . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Lestage , 
 
 Leraud . ... 
 
 6q, 
 
 72 
 
 Le Mont . . 
 
 Figerou, sen. ,. 
 
 320 ,, 400 
 
 Do . . . 
 
 Gombeau . , . 
 
 60, 
 
 72 
 
 Charmail . . 
 
 Louvet de Paty 
 
 280 ,, 320 
 
 Au bourg , . . 
 
 Saaiac . . . 
 
 60., 
 
 72 
 
 Bel-Orme 
 
 Veuve Tron- 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Drouineau . . 
 
 60, 
 
 72 
 
 
 . qiioy. 
 
 
 Lestage . . . 
 
 Dissendier 
 
 40 , 
 
 60 
 
 Aiibourg , 
 
 Rigon 
 
 240.,, 280 
 
 La Grange . . . 
 
 Martin . ... 
 
 40 . 
 
 60 
 
 Ducasse . 
 
 Chomel . . . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Marque . . . 
 
 B. Figerou . 
 
 40 . 
 
 60 
 
 Grandis . . . 
 
 A. Andron . . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Le Villa. . . 
 
 Laneuve 
 
 40 , 
 
 60 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Figerou . . . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Lussac . . 
 
 40 , 
 
 60 
 
 Muret . . . 
 
 Duthil . . . 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Grazillon 
 
 32 . 
 
 48 
 
 Verdus . 
 
 Boyer 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Lestage . . . 
 
 Simon . 
 
 32 . 
 
 48 
 
 Lousteau-Neuf 
 
 Pereyra . . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Do 
 
 Bosc . . . 
 
 32 , 
 
 48 
 
 Sociando 
 
 Veuve Mallet . 
 
 140 ,, 160 
 
 La Grange . . 
 
 Cocuraud 
 
 32 . 
 
 48 
 
 Plaisance . 
 
 J. Andron . ■. 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Lestage . 
 
 Andron . 
 
 32 , 
 
 48 
 
 Pabeau . . ■. 
 
 Pomes . . . 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 Troupian . 
 
 Bouillaud 
 
 40 , 
 
 48 
 
 Au bouig 
 
 Hay ... . 
 
 80 „ 120 
 
 
 
 
 
 c: 
 
 
 ' ST. LAURENT. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhd 
 
 s. 
 
 La Tour de 
 
 
 
 Maderan ' , . 
 
 Clerc . . 
 
 Soto 
 
 100 
 
 Camet . . 
 
 Luetkens . . 
 
 400 to 480 
 
 Marcillan . . 
 
 Dupre . . 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 Belgrave . . 
 
 Dev^s . . . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Verriere . . 
 
 Verriere . . 
 
 40,, 
 
 60 
 
 Perganson . . 
 
 E. Lahens . . 
 
 360 „ 400 
 
 Maurens . . 
 
 Maurens . . 
 
 40,, 
 
 60 
 
 Camensac . 
 
 Popp . . . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 S. Bichon . . 
 
 S. Bichon . . 
 
 40,, 
 
 bo 
 
 Barateau 
 
 Veron . , . 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 Sejourne , . 
 
 Sejourne . . 
 
 40.. 
 
 60 
 
 Ballac . . . 
 
 Grimail . . , 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Rionnet , 
 
 Tisseuil . . . 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 Mascard . . 
 
 P. Lahens . . 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 HeritiersGraves 
 
 Chaulet . 
 
 40,, 
 
 60 
 
 Le Galan . . 
 
 Les heri tiers 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Nadeau , . . 
 
 Petit .... 
 
 40.. 
 
 60 
 
 
 Guillot. 
 
 
 Foiirton . , 
 
 Veuve Guilhem 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 Caclie . 
 
 Pieck . , , 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Teyssonneau . 
 
 Teyssonneau 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Garonne 
 
 Ferchaud . . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Mourau , , . 
 
 Mourau . . . 
 
 .32 ,. 
 
 40 
 
 Seujean . 
 
 Deves . . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Viaut . 
 
 Veuve Viaut . 
 
 .32,, 
 
 40 
 
 Marcillanet 
 
 Bichon . . , 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Vidal . , . 
 
 Vidal . . 
 
 .32,, 
 
 40 
 
 De Larose . . 
 
 De Larose . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Martin , . . 
 
 Veuve Martin . 
 
 .32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Saintout . . 
 
 Saintout 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Sarrotte , , , 
 
 Veuve Sarrotte 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 
 Fifty peasa 
 
 nts produce 
 
 about 12 to 24 h 
 
 hds. 
 
 
 
 ST. SAUVEUR. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Fonpiqueyre \ 
 
 Bemet and I 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 Tontcstcau'. . 
 
 oeunn . 
 
 Liversan . j 
 
 Ducasse. ( 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Cassanac . . 
 
 Ve. Bernard . 
 
 Tourleran . '. 
 
 Le Guenedal . 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 La Naiide . . 
 
 Sundry small 
 
 Peyrabon . . 
 
 Labat . . . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 
 growers. 
 
 Madiac . . ■ 
 
 Vasquez . . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Fournas . . 
 
 Heritiers Pascal 
 
 Hourtin . . 
 
 Duroy . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Do. 
 
 HeritiersMane)' 
 
 La Batisse . - 
 
 Heritiers Ca-;i6o „ 180 
 
 Guerin . 
 
 Villa, d it M.ius- 
 
 
 • vaignac. 
 
 
 
 sais. 
 
 Hhd!- 
 
 
 64 to 
 
 72 
 
 4H., 
 
 eo 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 32 
 
 40 
 
344 
 
 STA TISTICS, Sfc. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 ST. SAUYEUR — continued. 
 
 Guerin . . . 
 
 Gaillard . . 
 
 
 LebourgdeSt. 
 
 Andron . . . 
 
 
 Escarjean . . 
 
 Hostein . . . 
 
 — 
 
 Sauveur. 
 
 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Maney . . . 
 
 — 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Heritiers Blan- 
 
 — 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Tiffon . . . 
 
 — 
 
 
 chard. 
 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Heritiers Tiffon 
 
 — 
 
 Laborde . . 
 
 Heritiers La- 
 
 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Pie ... . 
 
 — 
 
 
 borde. 
 
 
 LebourgdeSt. 
 
 Eyssan . . . 
 
 
 Labrousse . . 
 
 Bernard . . . 
 
 — 
 
 Sauveur. 
 
 
 — 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Maney . . . 
 
 — 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Delille . . . 
 
 — 
 
 Do. . . 
 
 Seignoret . . 
 
 — 
 
 
 Sundry small growers, producing from 8 to 20 hhds. 1 
 
 CISSAC. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Chateau du 
 
 
 
 Vilambits . . 
 
 C. Balquerie . 
 
 120 to 160 
 
 Breuil . . 
 
 Baron du Breuil 
 
 320 to 400 
 
 Abiet(au bourg) 
 
 Abiet . . . 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 Larrivaux . . 
 
 Count du Ha- 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Courregeolles 
 
 
 
 
 mel. 
 
 
 (au bourg) . 
 
 Courregeolles . 
 
 80 „ 120 
 
 Martigny (au 
 
 
 
 Teyssonneau(au 
 
 
 
 bourg) . . 
 
 Martigny . . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Luc) . . . 
 
 Teyssonneau . 
 
 80 „ 120 
 
 Anteillan . . 
 
 Lefort . . . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Prevot (au Luc) 
 
 Prevot . . . 
 
 48,, 64 
 
 Lamothe . . 
 
 Dumousseau . 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 
 
 
 VERTHEUIL. 
 
 Abbaye de Ver- 
 
 theuil 
 Beyzac . 
 Picourneau . 
 Lugagnac . 
 Au bourg . 
 Au Souley 
 
 Do. 
 Au batiment 
 Au bourg . 
 A Nodris . 
 
 Skinner . . 
 Wlistenberg 
 Malvezin 
 Clauzet . 
 Constant 
 Gauran . 
 Grenier . 
 Begot . . 
 Millet . . 
 Baron de Miolis 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 720 to 800 
 
 600., 
 
 720 
 
 160 „ 
 
 200 
 
 160 „ 
 
 200 
 
 too,, 
 
 120 
 
 too,, 
 
 120 
 
 roc „ 
 
 120 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Au Meynieu 
 
 A Coutelin 
 Au Bourdieu 
 A la Graviere 
 A Goua . 
 A Lugagnac 
 A Lille . . 
 
 Do. . . 
 Au bourg . 
 
 Do. 
 
 Cazal Contes- 
 
 souze. 
 
 
 Blanchard, 
 
 .en. 
 
 Blanchard, 
 
 un. 
 
 Couerbe 
 
 
 Monneins 
 
 
 Roux 
 
 
 Mondon 
 
 
 Raymond 
 Valleau . 
 Duret . 
 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 60 to 
 
 80 
 
 60,, 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 48,, 
 
 72 
 
 48,, 
 
 72 
 
 48,, 
 
 72 
 
 40.. 
 
 48 
 
 40,, 
 
 48 
 
 40,, 
 
 48 
 
 32.. 
 
 48 
 
 ST. GERMAIN D'ESTEUIL. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Chateau Levran 
 
 Bn. du Perrier 
 
 8ooto 1000 
 
 Barbannes . 
 
 
 de Larsan. 
 
 
 Cantegril . 
 
 Chateau Bries 
 
 
 
 Artiguillon . 
 
 Caillou . . 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 400 „ 480 
 
 A Barbehire 
 
 ChateauCastera 
 
 De Verthamon 
 
 300 „ 320 
 
 Au bourg . 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 A. Charron 
 
 180 ,, 200 
 
 Artiguillon . 
 
 Latour . . . 
 
 De Lambert 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 A Fogeres . 
 
 De Verthamon 
 Colombe 
 Delille . 
 Meynieu 
 Durand . 
 Dubosq . 
 Arnaud . 
 
Xi] 
 
 STA TISTICS, &-C. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 34^5 
 
 ST. CHRISTOLY ET COUQUEQUES. 
 
 Guittard (era St. Bounet) 
 Martial . . . . . . 
 
 Lardilley (era St. Bounet) 
 Veuve Lussac .... 
 
 Guiraud 
 
 Laforest 
 
 Plumean 
 
 Dumas (cru St. Bounet) . 
 
 Bert 
 
 Copmartin 
 
 Guidon 
 
 Normandin .... 
 
 Servant 
 
 Servant, sen 
 
 Piganeau 
 
 Dumas 
 
 Daney frferes .... 
 Veuve Normandin , 
 Servant, P 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 300 to 360 
 
 240 , 
 
 280 
 
 240 , 
 
 280 
 
 160 , 
 
 200 
 
 160 , 
 
 200 
 
 160 , 
 
 180 
 
 160 , 
 
 180 
 
 120 , 
 
 160 
 
 120 , 
 
 160 
 
 120 , 
 
 160 
 
 100 , 
 
 140 
 
 80, 
 
 ICO 
 
 80 , 
 
 100 
 
 80 , 
 
 100 
 
 80 , 
 
 100 
 
 60 , 
 
 80 
 
 60 , 
 
 80 
 
 48, 
 
 60 
 
 40 , 
 
 60 
 
 Grach, jun. . . . 
 Veuve Courbes . . 
 Guiraud, P. . . . 
 
 Alibert 
 
 Pelau 
 
 Lafaye 
 
 Cagnard . . . . 
 
 Negrier 
 
 Eysson 
 
 Total 
 
 Lacroix 
 
 Grach, sen, . , . 
 Moreau . , . . . 
 Boyer . . . . , 
 
 Mezuret 
 
 Braquessac . , . . 
 Ponceteau . . . . 
 Sundry small growers 
 
 Hhds. 
 48 to 60 
 48 ,, 60 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 32. 
 32 ,. 40 
 32 ,. 40 
 36 ,, 40 
 32 „ 36 
 28 „ 32 
 1 100 ,,1400 
 
 60 
 60 
 
 Si 
 48 
 
 48 
 48 
 48 
 48 
 48 
 40 
 
 VALEYRAC. 
 
 Chauvelet 
 
 Haignoux 
 
 Bedel, sen 
 
 Eqquerir (Dubourdieu) . 
 Laplaverie 
 
 Hhds. 
 480 to 600 
 240 „ 320 
 240 „ 280 
 280 „ 320 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Rabire 
 
 Bert 
 
 Lussac 
 
 Rousseau 
 
 Divers 
 
 Hhds. 
 240 to 280 
 160 ,, 200 
 160 ,, 200 
 120 ,, 160 
 600 „ 640 
 
 lAU. 
 
 Bedel 
 
 Count de Lussac . . . 
 
 R. Bert 
 
 CoiiTard, jun 
 
 Larcher 
 
 Laumond 
 
 Delignac 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 240 to 280 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 40 „ 60 
 
 40 „ 60 
 
 Bert, sen 
 
 Bert, jun 
 
 Figeron 
 
 Chiehet 
 
 Dubosq 
 
 Dufau 
 
 Hhds. 
 40 to 48 
 40 „ 48 
 48 „ 60 
 60 „ 80 
 40 „ 48 
 40 „ 48 
 
 LESPARRE AND UCH. 
 
 Frechina .... 
 
 Lebeuf 
 
 Potie, heritiers Vidal 
 arcon 
 
 ^; 
 
 Hhds 
 
 
 240 to 
 
 ^20 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 64,, 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Mazeau . 
 
 FrJche 
 
 Moneins 
 
 Hhds. 
 60 to 72 
 40 ,, 60 
 80 ,, 100 
 
346 
 
 STATISTICS, "s-c. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 PRIGNAC. 
 
 ST. TRELODY. 
 
 
 . Hhds. 
 
 
 , Hhds. 
 
 J. Giiilliem . ... 
 
 360 to 400 
 
 Mothes ... 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 T. Lostau . 
 
 280 „ 360 
 
 Drouillet 
 
 60 „ 72 
 
 Coiffard ... 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Goiidmeau 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 A. CoifFavd . . 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Bernard . 
 
 60 „ • 80 
 
 Heritiers Fabie de Rieu- 
 
 
 Villa . . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 negre .... 
 
 80 „ 120 i 
 
 Bernard ... 
 
 60 „ 72 
 
 Lliauinond . , . . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 D. Drouillet . 
 
 40 >> 48 
 
 Celerier . , , . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Scevola . . 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 Beneteau . . 
 
 6o „ 80 
 
 Piffoii . . 
 
 40 ,, 60 
 
 Bonore . . ... 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Adde . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 POTENSAC. 
 
 
 Hbds 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Heritiers Fabre de Rieu- 
 
 
 Moudon . 
 
 200 to 240 
 
 negre . . 
 
 200 to 240 
 
 Prevasteau 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Guilhory . . . 
 
 1 l^o ,, 180 
 
 P. Mouguet 
 
 i6o „ 200 
 
 Marry de Laloiibie 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Guilhem 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Guilhory . . . 
 
 i6o „ 180 
 
 ' F. Hostein .... 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Veuve Gallais . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Mesuret . . . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Jeanty . . 
 
 360 „ 400 
 
 A. Negrier . 
 
 32 » 48 
 
 Cousin 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 
 
 
 BLAIGNAN. 
 
 
 ■ Hhds. 1 
 
 
 Peychaud . 
 
 520 to 560 
 
 Jabeau . 
 
 Fabre de Rieunegre 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 Faure, J. 
 
 Guilhory, H . 
 
 160 ,, 200 ' 
 
 Bertin, A. 
 
 Seguin, J. . . . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 1 
 
 Benillan, J. 
 
 Raymond, P. 
 
 100 ,, 120 , 
 
 Rainond 
 
 Guillet, J. 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Leraud 
 
 Thibane, B. . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Seurin 
 
 Meynieu, J. 
 
 80 ,, too 
 
 Terle, F. 
 
 Veuve Potie 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Augey 
 
 Terle, J. 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 De Bastcrot 
 
 Delude, P. , . 
 
 6d „ 80 
 
 
 
 Hhd> 
 
 
 
 40 to 
 
 60 
 
 
 40 ., 
 
 60 
 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 60 
 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 60 
 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 
 40 .. 
 
 66 
 
 : 4° .. 
 
 60 
 
 ! 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
X.] 
 
 STA TISTICS, &-<r. OF MEDOC WINES. 
 
 347 
 
 ST. YZANS. 
 
 Subercazeaux \ Sigognac 
 De Marcellus fils, Chateau 
 
 Loudfene 
 
 Tronquoy-Lalande . . 
 
 Mesuret, P 
 
 Jeanty, F 
 
 Lacroix 
 
 Briou 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 600 to 800 
 
 400 „ 
 
 600 
 
 40 „ 
 
 80 
 
 120 „ 
 
 160 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Andre 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 Veuve Lafaye ... ... 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Moreau 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Jeanty 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Bournac 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Renou 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Barbe . .1 , . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 ORDONNAC. 
 
 Segiiin ..... 
 
 Martin 
 
 Marcoulet . . . - . . 
 Amaud . . ... 
 Faure 
 
 _ Hhds. 
 40 to 48 
 40 ,, 48 
 40 „ 48 
 40 ,, 48 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 H^ritiers Jouan . . . 
 Roustaiug ..... 
 Veuve Lavaud .... 
 Meynieu . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 48 to 60 
 48 „ 60 
 48 „ 60 
 40 „ 48 
 
 bAgadan. 
 
 Cruse (Chateau Laufac) 
 Cm de Lafite . 
 
 Lussac, A 
 
 Delignac (la Tour du By) 
 I-ambert Mont Blanc. 
 Lussac . ... 
 
 Lussac, P 
 
 Lussac de Roulln . . 
 Brion, J. . . 
 Barbier .... 
 Brion, P. . 
 
 Hhds. ll 
 
 8oato 
 
 1000 
 
 320 ,, 
 
 400 
 
 320 „ 
 
 4D0 
 
 240 „ 
 
 280' 
 
 200 ,, 
 
 240 
 
 200 „ 
 
 240 
 
 i5o ,, 
 
 200 
 
 160 „ 
 
 200 
 
 120 „ 
 
 160 
 
 120 „ 
 
 i5o 
 
 120 ,, 
 
 140 
 
 Vital'Eyrem . . 
 Lapeyre , , 
 Briori et Fonteneau 
 
 Liquard . . , . 
 
 Ducasse , . . , 
 
 Teyssandier , , 
 Lussac , , 
 Cocureau , 
 
 Hostein, J. . . . 
 
 Brion, P. . . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 80 to 100 
 72 „ 80 
 64 ,, 80 
 60 „ 72 
 60 „ 72 
 48 „ . 64 
 40 „ 4S 
 40 „ 48 
 40 „ 48 
 32 „ 40 
 
 GAILLAN. 
 
 Moutardier, E. . . 
 Lacaparcre,. . . . 
 Fabre de Rieunegre . . 
 Moutardier, F. . . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 120 to 160 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 72 ,, 80 
 
 Sudrean . . ... 
 
 Joffre 
 
 Rey 
 
 Faget 
 
 Hhds. 
 100 to 120 
 40 ,, 60 
 40 ,, 60 
 40 „. 48 
 
348 
 
 THE GRAVES. 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 CIVRAC. 
 
 I Hhds. 
 Pepin d'Escurac . . . 400 to 440 
 
 Frecliina 120 ,, 160 
 
 Chauvelet 120 ,, l6o 
 
 Marquis de Verthamon, 
 
 Count de Segur, Ca- ! 
 
 banac (Chateau Berran) 400 ,, 480 
 
 Juillac i 72 ,> 100 
 
 Coutant 1 80 „ 120 
 
 Rondeleux i 80 „ 120 
 
 Gaillar de Bel Air 
 Malangin 
 Lussac . 
 Gallouin . 
 Benillan . 
 Teixier . 
 Meynieu 
 Veuve Simon 
 Lambert-Carregat 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 48 to 60 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 60 „ 80 
 120 „ 160 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 120 „ 160 
 
 QUEYRAC. 
 
 Veuve Montauroy (Cha- 
 teau Carcanieux) . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 480 to 560 
 
 Carle 
 
 Allard 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 200 to 240 
 
 72 „ 80 
 
 ST. VIVIEN. 
 
 De Morin Eycard . 
 Depe .... 
 Videau .... 
 
 Hhds. II 
 
 40 to 
 
 60 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Meynieu 
 
 Pache 
 
 Sundry small growers 
 
 Hhds. 
 40 to 60 
 40 „ 48 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 THE GRAVES. 
 
 The word Graves signifies a kind of territory consisting 
 of sand and gravel mixed here and there w^ith more or less 
 clay and marl. This soil occupies the heights in the im- 
 mediate neighbourhood of Bordeaux. On our viticultural 
 map of the Gironde, we have indicated this district by a 
 greyish blue colour. The same soil occurs also at the 
 confluence of the Garonne and Dordogne. Underneath 
 this territory limestone is met with in most places; in 
 others, however, the so-called alios, which we have described 
 as a particular feature of the M^doc. In this district the vine 
 succeeds very well. The wines obtained are of greater body, 
 deeper colour, and more spirituous than those of the M^doc, 
 and, indeed, they resemble much more the wines of the 
 Bourgogne than those of their own immediate neighbourhood, 
 but it maybe admitted that they have an altogether particular 
 
X.] RED WINES OF THE GRAVES. 349 
 
 taste and quality. The bouquet is not great, and they require 
 six or eight years in barrel before they can be put into 
 bottles. After that time, however, they remain excellent. 
 The production of white wines in this district, however, pre- 
 vails over that of red wines ; and we believe the reason of 
 this to be that the red wines of the Graves cannot establish a 
 character for themselves in the world, and are too unlike the 
 Medoc wines to be sold with them, while the white wines 
 which can be there produced are much more similar to the 
 white wines of the district of Sauternes which we shall have 
 to consider hereafter. The white wines have a distinct taste 
 of the pebble, as it is called. Higher up the Garonne, in the 
 whole district of Sauternes, the white wines prevail and no 
 red wines are produced. This district of the white wines we 
 have indicated by a yellow colour, which is, indeed, much 
 nearer the natural colour of the wines produced there than is 
 white, under which term they pass. 
 
 The Red Wines of the Graves. — The first quality is that of 
 Chateau Haut-Brion, distant about six kilometres from Bor- 
 deaux, and situated in the community of Pessac. Its products 
 are classed immediately after those of the Chateaux of Mar- 
 gaux, Lafitte, and Latour. The property has a surface of forty- 
 four hectares. The mode of cultivating the vine here is not 
 the same as in the M^doc, but is that peculiar to the Graves. 
 The principal vines cultivated here are Grosse Vidure and the 
 Vidure Sauvignone, together with the Malbec and the Cruchinet. 
 We have, however, seen a good many of the juran9ons, and 
 perceived with satisfaction that several of them were in the 
 course of being exterminated and replaced by the sauvignone. 
 The vines stand in rows ; the earth is worked by plough- 
 ing, in such a direction that the water of the many and 
 heavy rains which fall here flows off easily and rapidly. Each 
 vine is generally trained upon two arms, and after that upon 
 three branches, of which each is supported by a stake. To 
 each arm there is left a cane of six or seven eyes in length 
 and a spur of four eyes. The rest of the operation and the 
 vinification are as in the M^doc. At some distance from 
 Haut-Brion there is an estate called Carbonieux, which 
 
35° 
 
 WHITE WINES OF THE GRAVES. 
 
 [chap; 
 
 belongs to the well-known vinologist, M. Bpucherot. This 
 gentleman has a very rich collection of vines of all the 
 world on his estate, amounting to upwards of six hundred 
 varieties. With many of them he has made experiments of 
 plantation and vinification on a large scale. All the American 
 vines have failed in these experiments. The German- and 
 other European vines have given indifferent results, and it has 
 been established that the only vines which succeed well in 
 this district are those which are peculiar to it. We have 
 tasted many of the Carbonieux wines, and seen the whole 
 
 Fig. 57.— Normal cultivation of the Graves. 
 
 estate and all its varieties of viticulture, and we have derived 
 much information and pleasure from the urbanity and 
 kindness of M. Boucherot. The other wines grown in this 
 neighbourhood are not wines that can be classed or need' 
 to be particularly mentioned. 
 
 White Wines of the Graves or Saitternes District.~Th\s 
 district extends on the left bank of the Loire, in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Langon. Its centre is Bazas, and its eastern 
 termination Captieux. A little west of Podensac, on the 
 Loire, it passes into the Graves of Bordeaux, which we have 
 described before. It is a series of beautiful hills, rising 
 gradually from the Loire towards the south and west,- many 
 
X.] 
 
 WHITE WINES OF THE GRA VES. 
 
 351 
 
 of them having eastern, others northern, most of them 
 western exposvires. They are; interspersed with woods and a 
 little cultivated meadow land. The soil is, as before mentioned, 
 gravel and: easily worked.' The' vines: planted are almost 
 exclusively of white grapes. " They are particularly two in 
 number, namely, the sernillon and the srauvignone, mixed 
 h'ere and there- with a little muscatel. ; It is calculated that 
 the s^millon' occupies two-thirds of the surface ; the other 
 third is occupied by the "sauvighohe. The vines stand in lines 
 at distances of "a metre in each direction, and are variously' 
 dressed. At Barsac all the work on the soil is done by hand ; 
 
 Fig. 58. 
 
 -Normal cultivation of the Sa^ternes Djbtnct 
 
 - • ' ■ ■> 
 
 in Sauternes and Haut-Preignac the plough is used, as in the 
 Medoc, three times a year. Plantations are made by blind 
 canes. In the fourth year of growth the vine is trained upon 
 two arms, and at the end of the fifth year it gets three 
 armls. The pruning is begun in December, and ends about 
 February. The canes are left much shorter than those of 
 PessaC) having three eyes, and the "spurs having two eyes. 
 The sauvignone generally gets an eye on each cane or spur 
 more than the sernillon. ■ 
 
 Vintage. — The vintage in these districts is altogether dif- 
 ferent from the vintage in any other part of the world, for the 
 grapes are allowed to hang until they are ripe and rotten, and' 
 then they are collected berry by berry, only such berries being 
 taken as fully answer to the description of ripe and rotten. 
 We were present at. Chiteau Suduiraut when the vintagers 
 
352 VINTAGE IN [CHAP. 
 
 passed through the vineyards for the tenth time, and it was 
 believed that they would have to pass once or twice more. 
 This was near the end of October. Generally speaking, 
 however, the grapes are collected in about three successive 
 harvests. As there is a great deal of time employed in this 
 harvesting, and no rapidity of work required, the population 
 of the district and the ordinary labour suffices ; and there is 
 no gathering of labourers as in the M^doc and the Cham- 
 pagne at the time of the vintage. The grapes are crushed 
 and pressed, and the sweet thick must which flows off is 
 put into barriques. When the first must has run off, the murk 
 is loosened, trodden by the feet, and again pressed, and this 
 process is repeated a third time ; the must is then carried 
 into the chais, and there allowed to ferment. It is so arranged 
 that the vintage of one day shall remain by itself, and not 
 be mixed with the vintage of another day. In October we 
 observed at Chateau Suduiraut and Chateau Yquem twenty- 
 one different sets of barriques, each in a different stage of 
 fermentation, "epresentin£ the results of twenty-one days' 
 vintage. The first seven or eight days' collections, when many 
 are made, or the first collection, when only three are made, 
 are kept apart from those of the second and third seven days, 
 or the second and third collections. The first seven days 
 give generally what is called the "head" wines — vins de tite ; 
 these are the sweetest and heaviest. The second collection 
 generally gives vins de milieu, or wines of the middle, which are 
 less heavy and contain less sugar, and a third class are wines 
 of the tail, or queues, which are the result of the pressing of all 
 the grapes that remain after the other selections have been 
 made. These latter yield the driest wines : therefore in 
 tasting the white wines of this district one has to taste first 
 the thref qualities of head, middle, and tail, and then a 
 mixture of equal parts of the three. By means of this 
 particular treatment of the grape a must is obtained which is 
 exquisitely sweet : this sweetness remains to a great extent 
 throughout the whole life of the wine. Indeed, the Sauternes 
 wines and all white wines of the Gironde, which are similarly 
 made, are now of such a nature that they are spoiled for the 
 
X.] 
 
 THE GRAVES. 
 
 353 
 
 English, and let us add every other good, taste. The 
 excessive sweetness is given to them mainly on account of 
 the great demand which exists for sweet Sauternes wines 
 in Russia. During our visit to this district we tasted an enor- 
 mous number of wines, and we are certain that, with the 
 exception of a few queues, not a barrel even of the finest 
 wines of Yquem would fetch the demanded price in England. 
 We deplore this as a great loss to the oinophilist, for the 
 dry fine wines of Sauternes were once amongst the great 
 favourites of the wine-lovers' cellars, and they have now 
 almost entirely disappeared. Indeed, Sauternes are now, or 
 will be soon, what Muscat-Lunel and Rivesaltes have been 
 hitherto. 
 
 The fermentation is allowed to proceed in the barrels, and 
 the yeast is not allowed to be cleared out at the bung, but is 
 compelled to sink in the fluid. This is very necessary, as 
 otherwise the quantity of unfermented sugar in the liquid 
 would become excessive. During four or five years the head 
 wines have a disagreeable flavour, but a powerful alcoholicity 
 and much body. The flavour improves as they become drier. 
 The more liquorous the wine is the longer it must be kept 
 before its strong and peculiar flavour is adjusted to the right 
 medium. 
 
 The principal growths of the district are the Barsacs, 
 
 Sauternes, and Bommes. From the heights of Sauternes and 
 
 from the castle of Yquem a most splendid view of the Valley 
 
 of the Loire is obtained. It is one of the finest landscapes in 
 
 Europe. 
 
 white wines. 
 
 First Growths. 
 
 Chateau Yquem 
 La Tour Blanche 
 Peyraguey . 
 Vigneau . 
 Suduiraut . 
 Coutet . . 
 Climenez 
 Bayle . . . 
 Rieusec . . 
 Rabaut . . 
 
 Sauternes 
 Bommes 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 Preignac 
 Barsac 
 
 Do. 
 Sauternes 
 
 Do. 
 Bommes 
 
 B. de Lur-Saluces 
 Veuve Focke . 
 Veuve P. Lafaurie 
 De Pontac . . 
 Guilhot, fr^res 
 B. de Lur-Saliices 
 Lacoste . . ,. 
 F. Solar . . . 
 May^ .... 
 Deyme 
 
 Hhds. 
 560 to 720 
 180 „ 220 
 240 „ 320 
 200 ,, 240 
 400 ,, 480 
 400 ,, 480 
 200 , , 240 
 240 „ 320 
 80 „ 120 
 60 ,, 100 
 
 A A 
 
354 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE WINES 
 Second Growths. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 INIyrat 
 
 Barsac 
 
 — 
 
 Doisy . 
 
 Do. 
 
 — 
 
 Peixotto . 
 
 Bommes . 
 
 — 
 
 D'Ai-che . . 
 
 Sauternes 
 
 — 
 
 Filhot et Hineaiid . 
 
 Do. 
 
 — 
 
 Broustel et Neyrac 
 
 Barsac . 
 
 — 
 
 Caillou 
 
 Do. 
 
 — 
 
 Suau . 
 
 Do. 
 
 — 
 
 Malle . 
 
 Preigiiac . 
 
 — 
 
 Romer . 
 
 Do. . 
 
 — 
 
 Latnothe . 
 
 Sautemes 
 
 — 
 
 Do. 
 
 Do. 
 
 
 
 Hhds ; 
 
 H. MoUer 
 
 1 20 to 140 : 
 
 Daenne . . 
 
 40,, 48 j 
 
 Veuve I^acoste 
 
 80 „ 100 j 
 
 Lafaurie & Co. . 
 
 132 „ 200 1 
 
 B. de Lur-Saluces 
 
 400 ,, 480 j 
 
 Capdeville . . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Sarraute . . . 
 
 So ,, 100 t 
 
 Marion . . , 
 
 60 „ 72 j 
 
 H. de Luv-Saluces 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 De la Mayre-,Mory 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Veuve Baptiste 
 
 92 ,, 120 
 
 Massieux . 
 
 92 ,, 120 
 
 Description of the Wines. — The wines of Rarsac have much 
 body, are very alcoholic, and have a fine bouquet. They are 
 more heady than the Sauternes, and have a more lively taste 
 and a more amber-tinted colour. The first growth of the dis- 
 trict of Barsac is the ChS,teau Contet. The wines of Sauternes. 
 are more marrowy and fine, more transparent and agreeable. 
 The Chateau Yquem, produces the finest of all the Sauternes 
 wines, and is one of the jewels of France. Its annual yield 
 is four hundred hogsheads. In great exceptional yearsi 
 the Chateau Yquem wines become quite liquorous, and are 
 then like those concentrated straw wines which were once 
 so frequently made in the south of France. In ordinary good 
 years it preserves its superiority over all the other Sauternes, 
 wines, but is a,lways very spirituous. In 1844 the Chateau 
 Yquem wine was worth 12,000 frs. the tonneau. We tasted at 
 the Chateau wine four or five years old, for which 12,000, 
 and other qualities for which 15,000 francs were demanded. 
 This wine, through its reputation, has,, in fact, become too, 
 dear for u.se. The 1865 we found beautiful; the tete was. 
 excessively sweet, almost like syrup, and when it was mixed 
 with the tail it sank in it like syrup of high specific gravity.. 
 The 1866 was not very good ; it was too hot and alcoholic. 
 The 1867 which had just been pressed amounted only to 
 forty tonneaux instead of the nsual hundred and fifty. The 
 1864 we founid yery fine, but too dear at 12,000 francs. The 
 1861 we pronounced splendid, but not yet ripe for bottling. 
 We calculated that after bottling it would cost about fifteen 
 
X.] OF THE CRAVES. 
 
 3SS 
 
 francs the bottle. At Chateau la Tour Blanche we tasted 
 the 1865, which was very fine indeed: its flavour was very- 
 similar to fine Rhine wine ; it was not so sweet as the Yquem. 
 The 1867 vintage also yielded only half the usual quantity. 
 The tetes of the 1865 were also too sweet; the middles and 
 tails were better. To our taste the ' sixty-fives ' of Chiteau 
 la Tour Blanche were far superior to the same year's Chateau 
 Yquem. The 1864 La Tour we found an excellent wine, not 
 too sweet, and the ensemble was very fine, with a full nice 
 flavour, and ready for bottling. At Chiteau Suduiraut we 
 tasted 1859 ^t 4,000 francs the tonneau, and this we 
 pronounced a perfect wine and very valuable ; it is, in 
 our opinion, the white parallel of the red Saint Emilion, 
 The 1864 was very sweet and made expressly for Russia. 
 The 1864 tail we found very good, and, considering that 
 it was a tail, extraordinary sweet. The 1S64 tete we 
 found very delicate, and attributed to it great finesse. The 
 1857 we found a beautiful dry wine, four years in bottle 
 after being six years in barrel. We drank a bottle of 
 it in the chais. The happy proprietor informed us that he 
 drank a bottle- of this wine daily for his breakfast. In this 
 enormous establishment, which was shown to us by the 
 proprietors with the greatest urbanity and politeness, we saw 
 nine large presses, each at least two metres square, all in full 
 operation. The chais was full of barriques of wine, all of the 
 last eight or nine years ; and what ordinarily may be called 
 a pleasure— namely, the tasting of these wines — became, 
 through the necessity of tasting each quality four times, a 
 heavy and intoxicating labour. This estate is distinguished 
 by a splendid natural advantage, namely, rich sources of 
 flowing spring water, from which we regaled ourselves after 
 our wine tasting was over. While 80 or loO tonneaux are 
 produced yearly in ordinary years, the year 1867 yielded only 
 half a vintage.' 
 
 1 At Chateau Suduiraut we ob.served an amusing little incident, illustrative of the 
 views which one may take of the hypocrisy of " tasting." In tasting, the wine is 
 supposed to be spat out after being rolled about the month for a few moments ; 
 and the tasters maintain that tliey are not in the habit of swallowing any, and that 
 
 A A 2 
 
356 DESCRIPTION AND [chap. 
 
 At Chateau Desmirail we tasted 1864. The middle was 
 good ; the head sweet. The 1865 tail was very good indeed. 
 The 1865 head was too sweet for England, good for Russia. 
 Its value was about 2,000 frs. per tonneau. At Rieussec, on a 
 large wine farm which produces some of the first growth, we 
 found that only ten tonneaux were produced this year, being 
 about a quarter of the ordinary production. The vines had 
 suffered much during flowering, afterwards from hail, and a 
 little from the oidium. All the fresh musts were very sweet 
 and fermenting slowly. Of the 1865 there were twenty-seven 
 tonneaux, of which the head was very sweet and the tail 
 slightly bitter. The j866 we did not find to be very good. 
 
 Preignac yields a wine which is less heady than that of 
 Sauternes and Barsac. The wine of Carbonieux, which 
 we have already mentioned, although similar to Sauternes, is 
 never so liquorous, and in years when the Sauternes is only 
 half liquorous becomes dry. We consider the dry wines, or 
 at all events the moderately sweet and spirited wines, to be 
 much more wholesome than the sweet heavy wines, and it 
 is for this reason that we deplore the change in the produc- 
 tion of wine in the Sauternes district, which is now almost 
 accomplished. 
 
 they are not obliged to swallow any for the purpose of getting >. perfect taste. 
 While we were tasting the 1857 wine, the proprietor's little son came near, and 
 his father asked him whether he would drink. " Yes," he replied, and then 
 putting the glass to his mouth he drank the contents ; but as the company was not 
 supposed to drink, but only to taste, the father jocularly admonished the son to 
 spit a little — " Crachcz unpen." We all laughed at this little satire on profes- 
 sional tasting, for we believe and know from the effects of the tasting, that, 
 although the tasters profess not to swallow any wine, they all swallow more than 
 they spit out. 
 
X.] 
 
 STATISTICS, &-C. OF SAUTERNES WINES. 
 
 357 
 
 VITICULTURAL 
 
 STATISTICS OF THE SAUTERNES DISTRICT 
 PRODUCING WHITE WINES. 
 
 {Showing under the heading of each community the names of the proprietors of vine- 
 yards, and the average number of hogsheads of wine produced annually in each.) 
 
 LANGOX. 
 
 Colas a Ludeman . 
 Goua . . . . 
 Merle . . . . 
 Duprat, au Maine 
 Fourcassie . 
 Cluzan . . . . 
 De Chateau 
 Caubet . . . . 
 Castaing 
 Lamaletie . 
 
 Biros 
 
 Nibaut . . . . 
 Ducasse . 
 Lafarque , . 
 Gervais . . . . 
 
 Hhds. II 
 
 60 to 
 
 80 
 
 60 ,, 
 
 80 
 
 80 „ 
 
 120 
 
 00 ,, 
 
 120 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 40 ., 
 
 48 
 
 4«„ 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 48 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Brannens, k Toumetton . 
 
 Leglise . . . ■ . 
 
 De Mirambet .... 
 
 Grenier 
 
 Cazenave-Champre . 
 
 Dupont 
 
 Capdeville 
 
 Villefranche . . . . 
 De Baritault . . . . 
 
 Ardusset 
 
 Larrieu 
 
 Branneins fils freres, Ma- 
 gens et Boriac . 
 Colac 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 120 to 
 
 160 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 40 » 
 
 48 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 48 „ 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 120 ,, 
 
 1 60 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 ST. PEY, OR ST. PIERRE DE MONS. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 De Poutac .... 
 
 140 to 160 
 
 Pauly 
 
 120 to 140 
 
 Baritault du Capriac . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Aubergier . ... 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 De Castelnau . . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Colas 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Crannens . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Monclin Patachon . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Mamie . . . - . 
 
 72 „ 96 
 
 Lafon 
 
 40 ,, 60 
 
 Bouhreau . . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Duzan . . 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 Dubourg 
 
 80 „ 96 
 
 Pauly, jeune . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 St. Blancard-Bemardine. 
 
 72 „ 80 
 
 Verdale . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Colas . . 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 Palachon . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 De Reyne . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Trompette . ... 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Lamarque . 
 
 28 „ 40 
 
 Pauly, jeune .... 
 
 28 „ 40 
 
 Carpentey . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Cazenave-Bourbon 
 
 28 „ 40 
 
 Colas St. -Marc 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 St. Blancar Seguis . . 
 
 28 ■„ 40 
 
 Brannens 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 Gramidon . . . . 
 
 28 „ 40 
 
 Marashe . . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 De Lur-Saluces . . . 
 
 28 „ 40 
 
 TOULENNE. 
 
 Catelan 
 
 Ladpnne 
 
 Dubourdieu .... 
 Cazenave .... 
 Fauret 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 200 to 240 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Lafargue 
 
 Grignon 
 
 Sarrazin . . . . 
 Pardiac .... 
 Theri .... 
 
 Hhds. 
 40 to 48 
 40 ,, 48 
 24 „ 40 
 20 „ 40 
 20 ,, 40 
 
358 
 
 STATISTICS, &^c. OF 
 
 [chap. 
 
 FARQUES DE LANGON. 
 
 Becquet .... 
 Ame-Lafargue . . 
 Brustis-Filhau . 
 •St. Blancar. . . 
 Veuve St. Blancar 
 St. Espes-Boyrin 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 80 to 100 
 
 Despujols-Mothes . . . 
 
 40 to 48 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Despujols-Mothes, jun. . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Les Claverie .... 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 La Barbe Moulette 
 
 16 „ 24 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Dastouet-Bureau 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Batsalle 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 PREIGNAC. 
 
 j ■fleritiersGuilhot,JiSudui- 
 
 raut 
 Comte de la Myre-Mary, 
 
 a Moittalier . 
 Comte H. de Lur Sa- 
 
 luces, a Malles . . 
 Danez freres, au Saliue . 
 Apian, aux Ormes 
 Vcte. Delbos, a Vegres . 
 Larrieu, a la Montagne 
 Godard, h. St. Aman . 
 Betbeder freres, a Picq . 
 " Larrieu, au Pleytegeat 
 Lahens, ^ Solon . 
 Soubiran, aux Arrieu.K . 
 Dutauzin, au Mayne 
 Alary, a Laville . 
 Ladonne 
 
 Veuve Dardu . . 
 Lagardere 
 Bertin, a Boutoc . 
 Lafon, do. 
 
 Fabre, do. 
 
 Lassauvajue-Mogey 
 Ijassauvajue, jun. . 
 
 Berlin, jun 
 
 Bertin d'Armiche . 
 Lados .... 
 Bertin freres 
 Boyreau-Boyrelot 
 Lafon, sen. . 
 P. Bertin 
 Bertin, a Boutoc 
 Capdeville, do. 
 Divers, do. 
 Pinsan Breton, au Haire 
 Pinsan Gressus, do. 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 
 400 to 
 
 480 
 
 
 120 ,, 
 
 160 
 
 
 320 ,. 
 
 400 
 
 
 200 ,, 
 
 240 
 
 
 160 , 
 
 200 
 
 
 160 , 
 
 200 
 
 
 400 , 
 
 480 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 60 
 
 
 180 „ 
 
 220 
 
 
 120 , 
 
 160 
 
 
 48 , 
 
 60 
 
 
 100 , 
 
 120 
 
 
 240 , 
 
 280 
 
 
 80 , 
 
 100 
 
 
 80 , 
 
 100 
 
 
 60 , 
 
 80 
 
 
 60, 
 
 80 
 
 
 48 , 
 
 60 
 
 
 60 , 
 
 80 
 
 
 60 , 
 
 72 
 
 
 48 , 
 
 60 
 
 
 32 , 
 
 40 
 
 
 32 ., 40 
 
 4° ,. 48 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 32 
 
 32 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 24 ,, 32 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 60 ,, 72 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 40 
 40 
 
 Veuve Pinsan, au Haire 
 J. Pinsan, do. 
 
 Boireau, do. 
 
 Commets, do. 
 
 P. La Trisote do. 
 Clavier, do. 
 
 Sauzin-Guilmanseau, dp. 
 Divers, du Haire 
 Rondee-Labarinthe 
 Guichard, a Lamothe 
 
 Duron, 
 
 Despujols, 
 
 Pinsan-Cato 
 
 Desplandre 
 
 Divers, 
 
 Patachon, 
 
 Huillette 
 
 Sore 
 
 Dufau 
 
 Leglise 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 a Mededon 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 Desqueyroux, do. 
 Dubrey freres,do. 
 Diverses, a Mededon . 
 Pinsan freres . 
 Dufau 
 
 Divers, au Puck 
 Dubourg 
 
 De RoUand, au bourg 
 Despujols, jun., do. 
 Vcte. deValens, do. 
 Dubos, do. 
 
 Lamothe, do. 
 
 Despiet, do. 
 
 Lahileau Paillotte, do. 
 Beguey, do. 
 
 Lacoste freres do. 
 
 Divers, do. 
 
 Hhds. 
 40 to 
 32 „ 
 32 .. 
 48 „ 
 32 „ 
 32 „ 
 40 „ 
 
 lOO , 
 
 60 : 
 
 48 ; 
 40 
 48 
 32 
 32 
 100 
 60 
 
 32 , 
 
 32 , 
 
 40 , 
 
 24 , 
 
 48 , 
 
 40 ; 
 48, 
 32 , 
 60 , 
 
 64, 
 I 60 . 
 
 48; 
 40 ; 
 32 
 32 
 40 
 
 32 
 32 
 
 6o 
 
 80 
 
 40 
 40 
 60 
 40 
 40 
 48 
 
 80 
 60 
 48 
 60 
 40 
 40 
 120 
 80 
 60 
 
 40 
 40 
 48 
 32 
 60 
 48 
 60 
 40 
 80 
 80 
 80 
 60 
 48 
 40 
 40 
 48 
 40 
 40 
 80 
 
X.] 
 
 SAUTERNES WINES. 
 
 359 
 
 SAU'I'EKNES. 
 
 Marquis de Lur-Saluces, 
 Chateau Yquem . 
 
 Marquis de Lur-Saluces, 
 domaines de Filhot et 
 Hiueaud . . . . 
 
 Solar, domaine du Bayle 
 
 Laporte, domaine de La- 
 mothe ... . , 
 
 Massieux, do 
 
 Vaudier, domaine de 
 Commarque .... 
 
 Lafaurie-Camille, cru d' 
 Arche 
 
 Dubedat 
 
 Comet 
 
 Faugas freres . 
 Meric, Chateau d'Arche 
 Lafon frferes 
 Veuve Lafon . . 
 Dupeyron cru d'Arche 
 Ducos .... 
 Espagnet .... 
 
 Lafon 
 
 Dubourg .... 
 Lafon, A. . 
 
 Hhds. 
 32 to 40 
 32 „ 40 
 48 „ 60 
 48 
 
 40 
 32 
 32 , 
 32 I 
 32 
 32 
 32 
 24- 
 
 24 
 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 32 
 32 
 
 BOMMES. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Veuve Lafaurle, au Cha- 
 
 
 ! De Pontac, M. . . 
 
 100 to 120 
 
 teau Peraguey . . 
 
 240 to 320 
 
 De Castehnore 
 
 48 „ 80 
 
 Deyme, au Rabaut 
 
 60 ,, 100 
 
 Latestere, au Haut-Bom- 
 
 
 De Pontac, G., cru du 
 
 
 , mes . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Vigneau . . . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 , Daulan (la Jeunesse), do. 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Veuve Focke, a la Tour 
 
 
 R. St. Pierre . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Blanche . ... 
 
 160 ,, 220 
 
 Lassauvajue - Mogey, a 
 
 
 Veuve Lacoste,a Peixotto 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Preignac . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 De Pontac, G. 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 
 
 BARSAC. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 Marquis de Lur-Saluces . 
 
 400 to 480 
 
 Boireau-Charrette 
 
 60 to 
 
 80 
 
 Lacoste .... 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Lacoste et Re/ 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Veuve Duboscq 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Marlon . 
 
 60 ,, 
 
 80 
 
 Debans .... 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Boireau 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 Cte. de Lur-Saluces 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Guilhem-Clouet 
 
 48 „ 
 
 60 
 
 Capdeville . . 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 Amanieu freres 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 60 
 
 Moller 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Latourneri-Lanie 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 Malignon . . 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Daenne . 
 
 40 >, 
 
 60 
 
 Danglade freres . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Faux . 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 I,aborde .... 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Despujols 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 Lacoste-Pinsan 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 Ducaule-Laguerre 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 Sarraute 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Sargos . 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 Journu . 
 
 60 ,, 100 
 
 Hugounet 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 Veuve Ledentu . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Marillot . 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 Lacoste . . . 
 
 72 „ 80 
 
 Espagne . 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Cazalis .... 
 
 60 , 80 
 
 Liberal 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 Baulac frferes .... 
 
 60 ,, 80 i 
 
 Coutanceau . 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 Cottineau . . • 
 
 60 „ 80 ! 
 
 Ducasse . 
 
 AO „ 
 
 48 
 
 Castera-Dudon . . 
 
 60 80 
 
 
 
 
I > 
 
 360 
 
 STATISTICS, &^£. OF 
 
 [chap. 
 
 PUJOLS, 
 
 Clos 6t. Roliert . 
 Fonsique . 
 Cadillon .... 
 Dupart de Cadillac 
 Guiaste .... 
 Labarthe . . . 
 Veuve Tauzin-Bley 
 Dupant . . . 
 Bonnet .... 
 Claverie .... 
 
 Hhd 
 
 . 
 
 100 to 
 
 120 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 4« „ 
 
 60 
 
 4« „ 
 
 60 
 
 4« ,. 
 
 60 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 32 ,. 
 
 40 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Guiaste, J. . . . 
 Lacoste-Labartouille 
 Veuve Bonnet . 
 Audine . 
 Taudin . 
 Lacoste-Pesiquan 
 Giral.fr^res . . 
 Cheveaux fr^res 
 Escudey-Sagnerie 
 Tauzin-Thierre 
 
 Hhds. 
 32 to 40 
 32 ., 40 
 32 „ 40 
 32 .. 40 
 32 ,, 40 
 32 .. 40 
 32 >, 40 
 24 .. 32 
 24 „ 32 
 24 ,, 32 
 
 ILLATS. 
 
 Ballion, G. . . . 
 Dubourg-Larrondey 
 Avezon . . . 
 Dubourg-Pontet 
 Ducau-Jeanty , 
 Dubry-Dubrille 
 Taffard . . . 
 Dorgueuilh . 
 Lalande-Lapave 
 Cazeaux-Lagnet 
 Dubourg-Larrat 
 Dubourg-Larrat, jun. 
 Boireau . 
 Lalande-Jouriac 
 Ducau .... 
 Daney .... 
 Paquenaud (Fort) , 
 Destrac (Cardillac) 
 Cantau .... 
 Vincent .... 
 
 Hhds. |l 
 
 200 to 
 
 320 1 
 
 60 „ 
 
 100 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 100 „ 
 
 140 
 
 240 „ 
 
 320 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 60 „ 
 
 100 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 40 1. 
 
 60 
 
 160 „ 
 
 180 
 
 60 „ 
 
 100 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 60 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 60 
 
 40 ., 
 
 60 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 60 
 
 Ricaud , . . , 
 Vincent (Vinautot) 
 Ducau (Drole) . 
 Vincent (Menaton) 
 Lapujade . . . 
 Cantau-C^aduhan . 
 Dubas-Mongneau . 
 Tauzin-Pistaulan . 
 Dubrey fr^res . 
 Dubrey-Expertille 
 Cazeaux . 
 Lafosse . 
 Cendrey 
 Paguenaud 
 Billaud . 
 Ducau-Baston 
 Dulon . . 
 Dubourg-Lionne 
 Dubourg- Ricaud 
 
 Hhds. 
 60 to 80 
 40 ,,60 
 60 „ 80 
 40 ,, 60 
 60 „ 80 
 40 „ 60 
 60 ,, 80 
 60 „ 80 
 40 „ 60 
 40 „ 60 
 40 ,,60 
 40 ,,60 
 40 ,, 60 
 40 „ 60 
 40 „ 60 
 40 ,,60 
 40 „ 60 
 60 „ 80 
 60 „ 40 
 
 LANDIRAS. 
 
 De Chalup au Portoil 
 
 Taffard . 
 
 Canteau . 
 
 Bonifas . 
 
 Dupey . 
 
 Bacquey . 
 
 Jouis . 
 
 J. Dutrenit 
 
 butrenit . 
 
 De Tauzin 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 100 to 160 
 80 ,, 120 
 60 ,, 80 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 120 „ 160 
 48 „ 60 
 60 „ 80 
 40 „ 60 
 40 „ 60 
 40 „ 60 
 
 Dubeau 
 Ricaud . 
 Robit . 
 Dutrenit 
 La Vincente 
 Ricard 
 
 Champagne, sen. 
 CJiampagne, jun. 
 Lasserre . 
 Canteau . . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 60 to 80 
 40 ,, 60 
 
 40 
 64 
 60 
 40 
 
 60 
 68 
 80 
 60 
 
 28 ,, 40 
 28 „ 40 
 40 ,, 60 
 36 „ 48 
 
X.] 
 
 SAUTERNES WINES. 
 
 361 
 
 CERONS. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Cte. de Calvimont . . 
 
 140 to 200 
 
 Expert 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 Liberal 
 
 80 , 
 
 , 120 
 
 R. Medeville . . 
 
 
 80 , 
 
 , 100 
 
 P. Biaraez 
 
 160 , 
 
 1 240 
 
 C. Medeville . . 
 
 
 120 , 
 
 , 160 
 
 Lataste fr^res . . . 
 
 60 , 
 
 . 72 
 
 Cobillon-Medeville 
 
 
 160 , 
 
 , 200 
 
 Lataste 
 
 80 , 
 
 , 100 
 
 Ducau-Baston . . 
 
 
 160 , 
 
 , 200 
 
 Lataste, dit Citoyen . . 
 
 60, 
 
 , 80 
 
 Expert-Paysan . . 
 
 
 100 , 
 
 , 120 
 
 Lataste, sen 
 
 4«, 
 
 , 60 
 
 Expert, dit Grenadier 
 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 80 
 
 Lataste 
 
 48. 
 
 , 60 
 
 Nercam-Bernachon 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 64 
 
 A. Ducau 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 80 
 
 Nercam-AndriUe . 
 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 80 
 
 J. Ducaule 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Expert-France . . 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Nicaule-Ducau . . . 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 80 
 
 Expert-Farcy . . 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Ducau-Lapeley 
 
 80 , 
 
 , 120 
 
 Expert la Grele . 
 
 
 40 . 
 
 , 60 
 
 Ducau-Thain .... 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Expert-Quatre . . 
 
 
 24 , 
 
 , 40 
 
 Lescouieres-Montille . . 
 
 80 , 
 
 , 120 
 
 Expert-Pasquet 
 
 
 24 , 
 
 , 40 
 
 Lataste-Dauphin . 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 80 
 
 Treilhe fr^res . . 
 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 120 
 
 Lataste-Expert . . 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Chevalier- Loulom 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 48 
 
 I^aforge-Expert . . . 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Mederie-Pourquey 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 4« 
 
 Expert-Nans . . . 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 80 
 
 A. Pourquey . . 
 
 
 32 , 
 
 , 40 
 
 Expert-Ratie .... 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 B. Pourquey 
 
 
 28, 
 
 , 40 
 
 Expert-Lamouroux . 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Ducau-Nicaule 
 
 
 28, 
 
 , 40 
 
 Gillard 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Bergez-Avril . 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 De Chalup .... 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 V. Vincentot . . 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 60 
 
 Gillard, E 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 100 
 
 Launeluc . . . 
 
 
 40 , 
 
 , 4« 
 
 PODENSAC. 
 
 Gassies, A. . . 
 Biames, C. . . 
 Biarnes, P. 
 Vergez . 
 Pichausel 
 Dorgueuilh-Berot . 
 Richet . . . . 
 
 Hhds. II 
 
 180 
 
 to 200 
 
 160 
 
 „ 180 
 
 120 
 
 ,, 140 
 
 120 
 
 „ 140 
 
 120 
 
 „ 140 
 
 60 
 
 „ 80 
 
 120 
 
 ,, 140 
 
 Jasseau, J. . 
 Lataste . 
 Peringuey . 
 Expert, heritiers 
 Rousseau 
 BordessouUe 
 Jasseau, P. . 
 
 Hhds. 
 72 to 80 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 60 
 60 
 
 72 
 72 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 48 „ 60 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 VIRELADE. 
 
 Douder .... 
 De Carayon-Latour 
 BordessouUes . 
 Desclaux 
 Tapie 
 
 Lasserre-Gaston 
 V. Cassinet . . 
 Autin-Gilles 
 
 Hhd 
 
 5. 
 
 60 to 
 
 200 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 60 ,, 
 
 80 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 60 
 
 40 ., 
 
 60 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Bedouret 
 Mothes . . . 
 Labat 
 
 Bahans . . 
 Pemerle . 
 Blaneau freres . 
 Bernada . 
 Lasserre freres . 
 
 Hhds 
 32 to 40 
 32 r, 40 
 32 >, 40 
 24 ., 32 
 24 .. 32 
 24 ., 32 
 24 >, 32 
 24 .. 32 
 
 ARBANATS. 
 
 Baron de Carayon-Latour 
 
 Lucbert 
 
 Lachatre .... 
 Dubroca .... 
 
 Hhds. 
 200 to 240 
 
 40 ,, 60 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Descacq .... 
 Laulan .... 
 P. Bisquay .... 
 Labat (cm de Bel-Air) 
 
 Hhds 
 40 to 48 
 20 ,, 24 
 
 24 >, 32 
 60 ,, 80 
 
362 
 
 STATISTICS, &^c. OF 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Bt'siiia the above whitt wines, this commune also gnra/s Che following red wines :■ 
 
 Baion de Carayon-Latour 
 Lucbert , ... 
 
 Lachatre ... 
 Dubroca , ... 
 
 Descacq 
 
 Laulan 
 
 Gaubert (cru Tourteaiix) 
 Labat (cru de Bel-Air) 
 
 Graves. 
 
 Palus. 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 200 IQ 240 
 
 600 to 800 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 32 >, 40 
 
 32 .. 40 
 
 32 ,, 40 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 — 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 300 „ 320 
 
 VITICULTUKAL STATISTICS OF THE PART OF THE GRAVES 
 OR SAUTERNES DISTRICT PRODUCING RED WINES. 
 
 (Sho-t-siing under the heading of each community the nances of the proprietors, and the 
 average number of hogsheads of wine annually produced.) 
 
 MERIGNAC. 
 
 Dumon, a Chateau Bonair 
 Bonnet, Chateaude Bouran 
 Pigautier . . . 
 La Tour de Veyrine 
 L'Archeveche . . 
 Doussous, a Lnchey 
 Wyndham . 
 Petiteau . . 
 Ducasse . 
 M. Isaacson 
 
 Hhds. j 1 
 
 32010 
 
 400 
 
 140 ,, 
 
 160 
 
 120 ,, 
 
 160 
 
 120 ,, 
 
 160 
 
 100 ,, 
 
 120 
 
 120 „ 
 
 160 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 72 „ 
 
 80 
 
 72 „ 
 
 80 
 
 72 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Lanefranque 
 
 Caillavet 
 
 Silveyra . 
 
 Gintrac 
 
 Lrticoste 
 
 Mercier 
 
 Baour 
 
 Merignac 
 
 B. Laffarqiie 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 ! 72 to 80 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 60 „ 72 
 
 
 60 ,, 72 
 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 GRADIGNAN. 
 
 Roux . . 
 
 Rodrigues . 
 
 Bergmiller 
 
 Mauze 
 
 Dalidet 
 
 Moulinie 
 
 Rodrigues, C. 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 120 to 160 ;i 
 
 120 
 
 , 160 
 
 80 
 
 , 120 
 
 100 
 
 , 14D 
 
 80 
 
 , 120 
 
 80 
 
 , 120 
 
 80 
 
 , 120 
 
 Berges 
 
 Dupiich 
 
 Alplionse 
 
 Pichard 
 
 Dupeyrat 
 
 De Kercado 
 
 Paysans . 
 
 Hhds. 
 40 to 60 
 60 ,, 80 
 40 „ 60 
 40 „ 48 
 40 „ 48 
 20 ,, 40 
 32 ,, 40 
 
X.] 
 
 RED SA Ur ERNES WINES. 
 
 363 
 
 PESSAC. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Chateau Haul Brion . . 
 
 360 to 400 
 
 Meller (Vertliamon) 
 
 48 to 60 
 
 Chateau -Neuf de Haut 
 
 
 Garcia 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Brion ... 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Grangeneuve . . . 
 
 24 ., 32 
 
 Chateau Ste. Marie et 
 
 
 Foumier . . 
 
 32 „ 48 
 
 Pape Clement 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Deney . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 La Mission .... 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Ledoux . . . 
 
 20 „ 40 
 
 Lachapelle . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Jaubert . . 
 
 20 „ 40 
 
 F. Bahans 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Bersat . . 
 
 16 „ 24 
 
 Baron Sarget 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Thomas ... 
 
 16 „ 24 
 
 Les Carmes 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Veuve Montagny 
 
 16 „ 24 
 
 Gaussens 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 F. Coutine 
 
 12 „ 20 
 
 TALENCE. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Chiapella . ■ . 
 
 140 to 160 
 
 Megret . . 
 
 40 to 48 
 
 Larrieu . ... 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Cujol . . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Cayrou . 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Gommez-Vaez . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 R. de Sauvignon . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 H. Luc 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Roul . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Tarel 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Bemos . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Cuginaud 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 J. Durand . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Labalette . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Gautier ... 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 A. Herin . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Laclaverie 
 
 60 „ 48 
 
 Derussac .... 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Bouscasse - . 
 
 40 ,. 48 
 
 De Lamballerin . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Pommez . . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Deveze .... 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Veuve Grand 
 
 40 „ 60 
 
 Daney ... 
 
 32 „ 4« 
 
 Raba . . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Hallagray .... 
 
 20 „ 24 
 
 Tarteyron . • 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Festugi^re .... 
 
 24 „ 32 
 
 Thevenard 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 
 
 LEOGNAN. 
 
 Chateau Lou- 
 vieres . . • 
 Larrivet . 
 
 Chateau Branon 
 de Licterie . 
 
 Chateau d'Oli- 
 vier. 
 
 Laqueloup 
 
 Mouton . . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 L'Hermiton . 
 
 Louvet . 
 
 80 to 100 
 
 B Mareilliac .120 to 160 j Petit- Bourdieu 
 
 Pujos 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 De Taffard et 280 „ 320-1 Ci-devt. Brown 
 
 Roux 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 De Sulzer. i i, Bailly . . . 
 
 Ricard . . . 
 
 80 „ 120 
 
 
 Barreyre 
 
 Moreau-Berton 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 A Calve . . 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 Lessence 
 
 Beneclce . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Count d'Etche- 
 
 
 Freuzal et Se- 
 
 
 
 goyen . .,160 „ 200 
 
 gum . . . 
 
 De Griffon . 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 Chateau-Neuf . 
 
 Th. Duces 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 Depiet. . . 
 
 i&o „ 200 
 
 PontauUe 
 
 Bascle 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
364 
 
 RED SA UTERNES WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 
 VILLENAVE 
 
 D ORNON. 
 
 
 
 
 Graves. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Pontacq - Mous- 
 
 
 
 Madere . 
 
 Buchon . . . 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 tier . . . 
 
 Souton . 
 
 300 to 340 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Sancet . . . 
 
 20 „ 40 
 
 Carbonieux. 
 
 Boucherot . . 
 
 160 ,, 100 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Jude . . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Brignon . 
 
 Fabre . . . 
 
 140 „ i6o 
 
 Pont delaMaye 
 
 Lange . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Lahontan . 
 
 A. de Basqiiiat 
 
 80 „ 120 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Latransa 
 
 40 „ 60 
 
 Collins . . . 
 
 R. de Basquiat 
 
 80 „ 120 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Couperie 
 
 24 » 32 
 
 Le Desert . . 
 
 De Sandol . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Dupouy . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Pont de Langon 
 
 Dupvat . . . 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 Chateau Salle- 
 
 Heritiers de 
 
 
 Baret . . . 
 
 Redling . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 gourde. 
 
 Pradinea . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Madeie . . . 
 
 Dupuy . 
 
 loo ,, 120 
 
 Au bourg . . 
 
 Lartigue . . 
 
 24 „ 40 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Guichon 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 La Mounaie . 
 
 Laffargue . 
 
 40 „ 60 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 Lecler . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Galgon . . . 
 
 De Labarre 
 
 40 „ 60 
 
 Pai.us. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Geneste . . . 
 
 AUendy . . . 
 
 560 to 640 
 
 — — 
 
 Depiot . . . 
 
 lOO to 172 
 
 Courrejan . 
 
 Marquis d'Alon 
 
 240 „ 280 
 
 Lessence . . 
 
 N 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 PETITS VI NS ROUGES DE GRAVES. 
 
 MARTILLAG. 
 First Section. 
 
 Smith . . . 
 Lartique . . 
 
 1 Hhds. 
 Duffour-Duber- 320 to 4(X) 
 
 gier. 
 Gaschet . . . 240 ,, 280 
 
 Breyra 
 Do. 
 N 
 
 Conil . . . 
 Castaing 
 Levallois . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 lOO to I2C 
 
 60 „ 80 
 60 „ 72 
 
 Second Section. 
 
 Roche-Morin 
 
 N. 
 
 De Montes- 
 quieu. 
 Bazanac . 
 
 Hhds. 
 320 to 400 
 
 160 „ 200 
 
 Lantie . 
 Convent . 
 Lespean . 
 
 ST. MEDARD D'eYRAN. 
 
 Brochette de Larochet: 
 
 De Raymond . 
 
 Lort . . 
 
 Cante 
 
 Manes 
 
 De Sfae . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 200 to 240 
 100 „ 120 
 ICO ,, 120 
 100 ,, 120 
 100 „ 120 
 80 „ 100 
 
 De Carayon 
 Delpech . . 
 Mannan . . 
 Depiot . 
 Vigouroux . 
 De Baritaut . 
 
 I Hhds. 
 lie Venancour. 120 to 160 
 Noailles .'100 „ 120 
 
 Bentejac .'100 „ 120 
 
 Hhds. 
 80 to 100 
 loo „ 120 
 80 „ 100 
 72 „ 88 
 60 „ 80 
 60 ,, 80 
 
X.] 
 
 WINES OF THE HILL-SIDES. 
 
 36s 
 
 
 LA BREDE. 
 
 
 Dergottes . ... 
 
 Abiet 
 
 Lacombe ... 
 
 Hhds. 
 200 to 240 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Rougeol 
 
 Reynal . .... 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 100 to 120 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 
 ST. MORILLON. 
 
 
 De Baritault . . 
 Desbarat . . 
 Bleynie .... 
 Veuve Roullet . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 280 to 320 
 240 „ 280 
 320 „ 360 
 200 „ 240 
 
 Lillet 
 
 Boyreau 
 
 Guilhemin 
 
 De Bosredon .... 
 
 Hhds. 
 •120 to 160 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 WINES OF THE HILL-.SIDE.S, OR c6tES OF THE GIRONDE. 
 
 Vineyard of St. Emilion. 
 
 Those wines of the Gironde, which are called wines of the 
 hill-sides, or " Vitis de CStes," are obtained on a chain of 
 hills which extend along the right bank of the Garonne from 
 Ambarez to Sainte-Croix-du-Mont. The northern part of 
 this district produces in general wines of a dark colour, some- 
 times hard and rough at first, but ameliorating with age. 
 They are exported under the name of "wines of the good hill- 
 sides." In the southern part, only little red wine is made, 
 but much white wine of a dry quality, called " wine of the 
 little hill-sides.'' Under this latter denomination, the Bor- 
 deaux trade includes also the wines of the right bank of the 
 Dordogne, from Bourg, which is about twenty kilometres 
 north of Bordeaux, to Fronsac, which is about twenty-four 
 kilometres north-east of Bordeaux. Among all these wines, 
 the most celebrated are those which are grown in the com- 
 munity of Saint Emilion and generally named after that 
 district. The surrounding districts give also wines, but less 
 fine than those of Saint Emilion. Pomerol may rival these 
 latter ones, but its wines have to be sold under its own name. 
 The vineyards of Saint Emilion occupy 1,041 hectares. The 
 best quaHties are obtained on the plateau of the Madeleine 
 and Saint Martin, and on the inclines towards the south and 
 
366 
 
 WINES OF THE HILLSIDES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 west of the Saint Emilion hills. There are yet first-class 
 wines north of the town of Saint Emilion. This town was a 
 stronghold of the Knights Templars ; and of their churches 
 and order-houses innumerable ruins exist, interspersed with 
 inhabited houses. The soil on the hill-sides is a chalky clay, 
 lying upon rock. Lower down the territory becomes sandy, 
 and rests frequently upon a ferruginous underground. The 
 varieties of grapes met with in this district are the Noir 
 de Pressac, the Merlot, and the Bouchet, or Cabernet. We 
 know the Merlot to be one of the vines of the Palus. or 
 marshes, and the Cabernet to be one of the best of the vines 
 
 Fig. 59— Vine as trained in the Saint Emilion district and in ihe Palus of the Fronsadais. 
 Six viticultural elements upon one foot. 
 
 of the M^doc. These vines are represented at Saint Emilion 
 in the proportion of one-third each. We opine that the 
 finesse of the Saint Emilion is derived from the Cabernet — 
 its body and lasting quality from the Merlot— and the parti- 
 cular fiery and fresh quality from the Noir de Pressac. The 
 vine here is trained from blind canes. It is arranged so as to 
 have several arms ; and on the whole this mode of cultivation 
 is very similar to the so-called basket cultivation of the 
 Rheingau. The cutting is performed in November and 
 December. The Noir de Pressac is cut so that only short 
 spurs are left. The Bouchet and the Merlot, however, are cut 
 with long cartes. The turning of the soil is mostly done with 
 
X.J 
 
 SAINT EMILION. 
 
 367 
 
 the hoe, but in some large properties the plough is used, as in 
 the M6doc. The vines are tied to stakes, which here bear 
 the peculiar name of carassonnes. When the shoots are well 
 developed, the superfluous ones are cut off. The young 
 planted vines commence bearing fruit in the fifth year. In 
 the sixth year they are supposed to be in full bearing. A 
 hectare of the best vineyards yields about six barriques ; that 
 is, thirteen and a half hectolitres per hectare. The common 
 vineyards yield double that quantity. The vintage generally 
 takes place from the 15 th of September to the lOth of 
 October. It lasts generally fourteen or twenty days. The 
 vats in which fermentation takes place are all made of oak. 
 
 Fig €0. — Vines of the Paliis (Villenave d'Ornon) pFUned or spring-growth. 
 
 and contain twelve, twenty-four, or forty-eight barriques. The 
 middle-sized vats are preferred. They are not covered during 
 fermentation. Most proprietors crush the grapes before 
 putting them into the vats, and a few also remove the stalks. 
 The vatting is continued for eight days. In warm seasons 
 and ripe years, fermentation may be over in four days. 
 When drawn from the vat, the wine is put in new barrels, 
 and there quickly becomes clear. After this, the barrels 
 are all filled to the bung, closed and laid so that the bung 
 is at the side, and entirely covered by the wine. The 
 racking is effected in spring, and the sales begin imme- 
 diately afterwards. As all operations are here performed 
 with great care, an average of good wine is produced, which is 
 
368 WINES OF THE HILL-SIDES. [chap. 
 
 generally easily sold. Where the wine has not good keeping 
 qualities, the filling up of the ullage of the barrels during the 
 first year is done once a week, and the barrels are not placed 
 sideways until after the first year. Again, in other years, 
 where the wine is very rich, the filling-up is continued for 
 about eighteen months or two years, once a week, and the 
 barrels are put sideways only after two years. Saint Emilion 
 of good quality can be put in bottle towards the fourth 
 year, and must under all circumstances be bottled by the 
 sixth year. This is the technical rule of the trade. From 
 our own experience, however, we believe that the traders of 
 Bordeaux are ill-advised as to the time at which the 
 Saint Emilion ought to be bottled. We tasted the 1865 
 Saint Emilion, value 1,000 francs, requiring one summer 
 more in barrel before bottling. Another 1865 we tasted 
 at one of the largest chateaux of the district. It had good 
 body and colour, was not very warm, but somewhat common. 
 The whole sixty-three tonneaux, or 252 barriques, were sold 
 in our presence at 900 francs the tonneau. The day after, 
 they were worth 1,000; a month after, they were worth 
 1,100; and we have no doubt that when this wine comes 
 to be offered to the trade, it will have a value of 1,500 
 francs a tonneau. It was an exceedingly fresh wine, and was 
 said to require two more years in barrel, and then two years 
 in bottle ; so that, consequently, it would not be at its best 
 until six years after our tasting it. At Lacussaude, we 
 tasted 1865, at 2,000 francs the tonneau; and 1864, at the 
 same price. The latter was the preferable wine, which is a 
 curious circumstance, as throughout the Medoc, and many 
 other parts of the Gironde, all the 1864 without exception, 
 are inferior to the 1865. We must add that what we said of 
 the merchants of Bordeaux, and their habit of bottling the 
 Saint Emilion, applies in a much stronger manner to the 
 Saint Emilion district ; for whenever we drank Saint Emilion 
 bottled by the proprietors it was found to have become lean 
 {maigre) : that is to say, the wine having been left in barrel 
 too long, had lost fruitiness, freshness, flavour, and colour, and 
 become incapable of producing in the bottle that fragrance 
 
X.] SAINT EMILION. 369 
 
 which it would have obtained had it been bottled a year or 
 two earlier. We think, therefore, that Saint Emilioti would not 
 be hurt so much if it were bottled a little too early, and that 
 it is certain to suffer a great deal if it is bottled too late. It 
 is singular that the Saint Emilion wine is not liked in Eng- 
 land, while one would suppose from the general taste of the 
 English wine-drinking public that they would take to it with 
 pleasure, for the Saint Emilion, like the best Montpelier, 
 recalls many of the finest qualities of fine port win'e, leaving 
 the sugar and brandy out of the question : and we hope that 
 by directing attention to the Saint Emilion, and to its pecu- 
 liarities and qualities, we may contribute to help oinophilists 
 to an enjoyment of which they are at present robbed by what 
 we think a prejudice. There is a Saint Emilion wine of good 
 quality at 300 francs a tonneau, or seventy-five francs the bar- 
 rique. The second qualities are sold at 1 50 francs the tonneau. 
 Fine wines, such as those we have described above, will not 
 easily sell under 300 to 350 francs the hogshead, and will 
 come to about £\6 in London. Most of the Saint Emilion at 
 present goes to Belgium, Holland, Denmark, and Sweden. 
 The second-class Saint Emilion is largely imported to Paris. 
 
 Saint Emilion is the centre of a district called the Libour- 
 nais, of which Libourne is the principal town. Towards the 
 north-west the Libournais is marked off by the river Isle. 
 On the other side of this river is the district called Fronsa- 
 dais, of which the principal town is Fronsac, upon the banks 
 of the Dordogne. To the north-east of the Fronsadais is 
 the Blayais, which has the town of Blaye, a fortress lying 
 on the banks of the Gironde, for its centre. The Blayais, 
 therefore, lies opposite the Medoc, on the banks of the 
 Gironde. In these districts, considerable quantities of red 
 and white wines are produced. None of these are classified, 
 but many of them, particularly in good years, are very useful. 
 Large quantities are exported under various names, par- 
 ticularly across the Atlantic. 
 
 B B 
 
37° 
 
 WINES OF ST. EMILION, 
 
 [chap. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF THE WINES OF ST. 
 ENUMERATION OF THE COMMUNES 
 BOURNE DISTRICT. 
 
 EMILION AND 
 OF THE LI- 
 
 (Shmuing names, of properties and proprietors {in St. Emilion), and number of 
 hogsheads of wine annually produced. ) 
 
 st. emilion. 
 First Growths. 
 
 Belair 
 
 Canon . . 
 
 Closfoulet . 
 Beau-Sejour 
 Trois Moulins . 
 
 Franc-raagne . 
 Pouiret . 
 Lacarte . 
 Bellevue 
 Berliquet 
 La Madeleine . 
 Rocqueblancan 
 St. George . 
 La Sable 
 PimpinoUe . 
 Larcis . 
 
 Do. . . . 
 Laclusiere 
 Moudot . . . 
 PimpinoUe . . 
 Ausonne 
 
 . Baron de Ma 
 rignan. 
 
 Baron de Bon- 
 nival. 
 
 Leperche . 
 
 Carpe . 
 
 Fourcaiid - Du 
 plessis. 
 
 Fourcaut . 
 
 Fontemoing 
 
 Martineau 
 
 Lacaze . 
 
 Chatonet 
 Cantanat 
 Loursie . 
 Puchaud 
 Chapus 
 Ducasse . 
 Dubuch . 
 Thibaut . 
 Troplong 
 Fayard . 
 Cantenat 
 
 Hhds. II 
 
 lOO to 
 
 1 20 
 
 120 „ 
 
 140 
 
 lOO ,, 
 
 120 
 
 So ,, 
 
 100 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 32 
 60 
 80 
 
 48,, 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 60 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 24 ,. 
 40 „ 
 48 „ 
 
 32 
 48 
 60 
 
 32 „ 
 40 ,, 
 48,, 
 
 40 
 48 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 La Bouygiie 
 Malineau . 
 
 Les Menus . 
 La Serre 
 Ville-Maurine , 
 Le Tode 
 La Couxpande 
 Balestard . 
 Sansonet 
 Soutard . 
 Trotte-Vieille . 
 Sarpe 
 
 Do. . . . 
 Faurie . 
 Cadet . , 
 Cadet et Pon 
 
 not . . . 
 Le Convent 
 Fond-Roque . 
 
 Grandes 
 rallies 
 
 Mu- 
 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 Laforet . . . 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Bernodute Bou- 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 tin. 
 
 
 
 Meynot . . . 
 
 24 ,, 
 
 ■i,2 
 
 Marcon . 
 
 24 „ 
 
 S2 
 
 M orange . . 
 
 24 „ 
 
 ^2 
 
 Izambert . . 
 
 20 „ 
 
 24 
 
 Chaperon . 
 
 S6 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Du Cournet . 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Coutard . . . 
 
 64 ,. 
 
 72 
 
 Barry . . . 
 
 220 „ 
 
 240 
 
 Dumugron . . 
 
 24 » 
 
 V- 
 
 Reynaud . . 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 De Carle . . 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 Lavean . . . 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 48 
 
 Delaage . . . 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Piola . . . 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 Laperche . . 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 De Mallet-Ro- 
 
 4° .. 
 
 48 
 
 quefort. 
 
 
 
 Coste-Coly . . 
 
 20 „ 
 
 24 
 
 Second Growths. 
 
 Matras 
 
 Le Mayne . 
 
 La Graffeliere . 
 
 Do. 
 J. Faure 
 
 A Courbin . 
 
 A la Gomerie . 
 Au Canton . 
 
 Bourricaud . 
 
 Puchaud 
 
 Boitard . 
 
 De Malet 
 
 Penaud et 
 Paichan. 
 
 Heritiers Cha- 
 peron. 
 
 Dutour . 
 Do. . . 
 
 Au Cheval 
 
 blanc. 
 A Figeac . 
 Bragard . 
 A la Gomerie . 
 Peyraud 
 Badette . 
 Cautet . 
 La Closure 
 Les Menus 
 Gamus . 
 
 Fourcaud-Laus- 
 
 sac 
 Laveine . 
 Guadet . 
 Descorde . 
 Beylot-Mathieu 
 Barry . . . 
 David . 
 Grelon . . . 
 Pistouley . . 
 Gisa .... 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 100 , 
 
 , 120 
 
 160 , 
 
 , 180 
 
 200 , 
 
 , 280 
 
 48, 
 
 , 60 
 
 180, 
 
 , 200 
 
 120 , 
 
 , 140 
 
 100 , 
 
 , 120 
 
 60 , 
 
 , 80 
 
 24 , 
 
 ■ 32 
 
 48, 
 
 , 60 
 
X.] 
 
 THE LI BOURN A IS AND BLA YAIS. 
 
 371 
 
 COMAIUNES OF THE LIBOURNAIS. 
 
 Les Billaux . . 
 
 Pommerol 
 
 Izon , . . . 
 
 Naujeon et Portiac 
 
 Curson. 
 
 Dardinac . 
 
 Moulon . . . 
 
 Castillon . 
 
 Sainte-Ten-e . . 
 
 St. Etienne de Lisse 
 
 Les Peintiires 
 
 St. Medard . 
 
 Pincuilli . 
 
 I^igneux 
 
 St. Qiientin de Caplong 
 
 St. Avid da Morion 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 640 to 720 
 
 1600 ,, 2000 
 
 4800 , 
 
 , 5600 
 
 2400 , 
 
 , 2800 
 
 680 , 
 
 , 800 
 
 640 , 
 
 , 700 
 
 6000 , 
 
 , 8000 
 
 2800 , 
 
 , 3200 
 
 400 , 
 
 , 480 
 
 3200 , 
 
 , 3600 
 
 1400 , 
 
 , 1600 
 
 600 , 
 
 , 720 
 
 760 , 
 
 , 800 
 
 600 , 
 
 , 800 
 
 1200 , 
 
 , 1400 
 
 1000 , 
 
 , 1 200 
 
 Frousac 
 
 Larivi^re 
 
 Villegouge .... 
 Galgon et Queynac . . 
 
 Guitres 
 
 St. Denis de Piles . . 
 
 Bayas 
 
 Lapouyade .... 
 St. Christophe de Bardes 
 Puyssequin .... 
 
 Pujols 
 
 St. Vincent de Paule . 
 St. Jean de Blaignac 
 Coiibeyrac 
 
 Doulezon . ... 
 
 St. Radegonde . 
 
 Hhds. 
 88001010400 
 
 1200 , 
 
 1400 
 
 3600 , 
 
 4800 , 
 
 800 , 
 
 4000 
 5200 
 1000 
 
 6000 , 
 2800 , 
 
 7200 
 3200 
 
 1000 , 
 
 1200 
 
 1800 , 
 
 2400 
 
 2400 , 
 1200 , 
 
 3200 
 1600 
 
 3600 , 
 1400 , 
 
 4400 
 1600 
 
 1000 , 
 720 , 
 800 , 
 
 1400 
 960 
 900 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS OF THE DISTRICT OF 
 BLAYE (BLAYAIS). 
 
 [Showing under the name of each commune the names of the pi'oprietors of vine- 
 vai'ds, and the average number of hogsheads of wine annually produced.^ 
 
 BLAYE. 
 First Growths. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Charron (St. 
 
 
 
 Ch. Lagrange 
 
 Marquis de 
 
 
 Martin) . . 
 
 Flandrex . . 
 
 600 to 800 
 
 (Blaye). 
 
 Lagrange . 
 
 200 to 240 
 
 Guillonet (Ey- 
 
 
 
 Saugeron (do.). 
 
 Om^re . . . 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 rans) . . . 
 
 Lalande . . 
 
 320 „ 400 
 
 Cap de Haute, 
 
 
 
 Labarre (St. 
 
 
 
 (do.) . . . 
 
 Gellibert . . 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Martin) . . 
 
 St. Guirons 
 
 280 about. 
 
 Lecoune - Tail- 
 
 ViscountessLa- 
 
 
 Les Alberts 
 
 
 
 lasson. 
 
 lande . . . 
 
 140 „ l6o 
 
 (Mazion) . . 
 
 Binaud . . . 
 
 240 to 320 
 
 Bellevue (Plas- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sac). 
 
 Binaud freres 
 
 140 ,, 160 
 
 Second Growths. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Cazeau (St. 
 
 
 
 Labrousse (St. 
 
 
 
 Paul) . . . 
 
 B. de Faviere . 
 
 320 to 360 
 
 Martin) . . 
 
 LaBadie . . 
 
 320 to 400 
 
 Les Chaumes 
 
 
 
 C&ne. . . . 
 
 Sebileaux freres 
 
 400 „ 480 
 
 (Mazion) . . 
 
 Lapeyre(Veuve) 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 Maime - Boye 
 
 
 
 Gigot, (do.) . 
 
 Bardon . . . 
 
 200 ,, 240 
 
 (Cars) . . 
 
 Lalande 
 
 400 „ 480 
 
 Lamothe (Ey- 
 
 
 
 Lacrouzette 
 
 
 
 - rans) . . . 
 
 Count d'Isle . 
 
 240' ,, 280 
 
 (Blaye) . . 
 
 Tourne . . . 
 
 120 „ 160 
 
 Montuzet(Plas- 
 
 P. de Lagau- 
 
 
 Touvent, (do.). 
 
 Bordes (Veuve) 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 sac). 
 
 cnene . . . 
 
 280 „ 320 
 
 Cluzeau (Cars) 
 
 Castets . . . 
 
 240 „ 320 
 
 B B 2 
 
372 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Second Growths — continued. 
 
 Pey-Bonhomme 
 
 (Cars). . 
 Crusquet (Cars) 
 Lescadre (dq, ' 
 LaMetairie{do.) 
 Pardaillan (do 
 Le Chay (do. ) 
 Chante - Allou- 
 
 ette (Cars) 
 Boisset(Berson 
 Mendoce (Plas- 
 sac). 
 
 Brun 
 
 J. Dupeyrat 
 
 Carreaii . 
 
 Cantegril 
 
 E. Dupeyrat 
 
 Lalande . . 
 
 Lalande . 
 Favereau . 
 
 De Laulanie 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 140 to 
 160 „ 
 
 280 „ 
 
 280 „ 
 
 240 „ 
 
 160 
 190 
 320 
 320 
 
 280 
 
 200 „ 
 
 240 
 
 200 ,, 
 
 120 „ 
 
 240 
 160 
 
 240 „ 
 
 320 
 
 Four (Four) 
 Puynard (Bar 
 
 son) . 
 Eedou (Cars) , 
 St. Gente (St, 
 
 Genes) . , 
 Mazerolle(Cars) 
 Gazin (Plassac) 
 I/eBourg(Four) 
 Les Hymonants 
 Lafou 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Tardy . . . 
 
 120 to 160 
 
 Binaud Wres . 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 Merlet . . . 
 
 200 ,, 400 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 480 „ 600 
 
 Do. . 
 
 200 ,, 400 
 
 Do. 
 
 240 „ 320 
 
 Do. . . . 
 
 480 „ 600 
 
 Lafond-Binaud 
 
 400 „ 480 
 
 OUie . . . 
 
 240 „ 320 
 
 PRIGNAC. 
 
 Castanet . . . 
 De Saluces . . 
 Bayez 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 600 to 800 
 
 200 „ 240 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 Geraud . . . 
 
 Artaud 
 
 Cavignac 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 240 to 280 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 GAZELLE. 
 
 De Soyres (avec son bien 
 de Labarde) . 
 
 Hhds. 
 240 to 280 
 
 De Salupes . 
 Donis 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 200 to 240 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 BOURG. 
 
 
 Hhds. J 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Vte. Du Barry . 
 
 200 to 280 
 
 Etienne . 
 
 40 to 60 
 
 Peychaud 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Dusseau . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Ve. Courpon . . 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 Boudrefox 
 
 40 ,, 60 
 
 Charlus-Barbier 
 
 460 ,, 480 
 
 Magol . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Lamons . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Aillard . . 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Sicard . . . 
 
 40 „ 60 
 
 Labourdetto 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Subercazeaux 
 
 80 ,, 120 
 
 Subercazeaux 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Guyard . 
 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Pastoureau . . . 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Galice (Veuve) 
 
 
 48 „ 64 
 
 De Chal . . 
 
 40 I, 60 
 
 
 
 
 Dumeynion 
 Dumesnil ... 
 
 
 Despaignet . . 
 
 
 60 „ 100 
 
 60 ,, So 
 
 Latreille 
 
 
 80 ,, lOO 
 
 Jagou . , . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Marsaud . 
 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Texier 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Celerier . . . 
 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Mallard 
 
 40 „ 48 
 
 Lafitte .... 
 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 
 
 
X.] 
 
 OF THE BLA YAIS. 
 
 373 
 
 CAMILLAC. 
 
 Gilbert . . . 
 Peychaud . 
 Leydet d'Aubie 
 Pascault 
 
 Hhds. 11 
 
 140 to 
 
 160 
 
 4«„ 
 
 60 
 
 4«„ 
 
 60 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 Joubert 
 
 Allard 
 
 Audutau 
 
 Peychaud, i St. Seurin 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 100 to 120 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 LA LIBARDE. 
 
 Bertaud . . . 
 Berniard, jun. . 
 Bemiard-Cassade 
 Renaud . 
 Montbrun . 
 Allard . . . 
 Noel .... 
 Raganeau 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 100 to 
 
 120 
 
 40 „ 
 60 „ 
 
 48 
 80 
 
 80 „ 
 
 120 
 
 140 „ 
 
 40 „ 
 80 „ 
 
 160 
 
 48 
 
 120 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Peychaud . 
 Heritiers Labadie 
 Bertrand, L. 
 Berniard . 
 Labourdettf; 
 Durneynion 
 Mellard . 
 
 Hhd 
 
 s. 1 
 
 60 to 80 1 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 48 
 
 40 -. 
 
 48 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 40 ., 
 
 60 
 
 BAYON. 
 
 Marsaud, a Tayac 
 Viaud, a Eyquem . 
 De Chasteigner 
 Goyeau, a Blissac 
 Ribadieu, a Millorit 
 Grimard . 
 Duranthon . 
 Goujon . 
 Cailleux . 
 G. de Laborie . 
 Malembie . 
 
 Hhds. [| 
 
 360 to 
 
 488 
 
 280 „ 
 
 360 
 
 240 „ 
 
 320 
 
 240 „ 
 
 320 
 
 160 „ 
 
 240 
 
 120 „ 
 
 160 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 Bonnefon ■ . 
 Blay .... 
 
 Benassit 
 
 Drouilhard (Veuve) 
 Pierlot . . .. 
 Baillon .... 
 Roturier (Veuve) . 
 Laroussie (Veuve) 
 Laroussie . 
 Rochet . 
 
 Hhds. j 
 
 32 to 
 
 40 
 
 80 „ 
 
 120 
 
 24 ,. 
 
 40 
 
 28 „ 
 
 40 
 
 400.,, 
 
 640 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 28,, 
 
 40 
 
 40 „ 
 
 60 
 
 GAURIAC. 
 
 Viaud 
 Chambord 
 Pastoureau . . 
 Depoty (Veuve) . . 
 Deschamps . 
 
 Allard 
 
 Veuve de Jean Allard 
 Barril ... 
 Faugeres ... 
 Roy freres .... 
 
 Emery . 
 
 Mitubert 
 
 Charruancl 
 
 Cousteau 
 
 Laudard . 
 
 Migne 
 
 Goiseau 
 
 Bichon 
 
 Lourget . 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 140. to 
 
 160 
 
 4«„ 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 48 
 
 4S.. 
 
 60 
 
 4S„ 
 
 60 
 
 320 „ 
 
 400 
 
 320 „ 
 
 400 
 
374 
 
 STATISTICS OF BLA YAIS. 
 
 [chap . 
 
 VILLENEUVE. 
 
 Baron de Brivazac 
 
 Dechand 
 
 Goize 
 
 Laulane . 
 
 Sinau 
 
 Blay . 
 
 Grimard . 
 
 Briand 
 
 Fevrier . 
 
 Sinau 
 
 Chaillon . 
 
 Bernard . 
 
 Duret . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 i6o to 760 
 
 80 „ 
 
 120 
 
 160 ., 
 
 200 
 
 280 „ 
 
 400 
 
 60 „ 
 
 100 
 
 220 „ 
 
 320 
 
 40 „ 
 
 80 
 
 40 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 100 
 
 60 ,, 
 
 80 i 
 
 12 „ 
 
 16 
 
 20 ,, 
 
 24 
 
 12 ,. 
 
 16 
 
 Sinau, G. 
 Roy . . 
 Graveraud . 
 Bellue . 
 Gourdet . 
 Eymery . 
 Bouvet . 
 Landard . 
 Heraud . 
 6tier . . 
 Despinasse 
 Arnaud . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 60 to 80, 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 48 
 48 
 60 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 32 
 24 
 160 ,, 240 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 60 
 60 
 100 
 60 
 48 
 48 
 40 
 32 
 
 SAMONAC. 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 40.. 
 
 60 
 
 40., 
 
 60 
 
 40,, 
 
 60 
 
 Heritiers Sunder 
 Gaignerot . 
 Gayet 
 
 Cliarroppin . . 
 Heritiers Janvier 
 Cavignac 
 Sou, P. 
 
 Hhds. II 
 
 400 to 
 
 640 
 
 160 „ 
 
 200 
 
 160 ,, 
 
 200 
 
 180 ,, 
 
 200 
 
 120 ,, 
 
 140 
 
 80 „ 
 
 lOO 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Veuve Heraud 
 Sou, M. . . 
 Renard Cadet 
 Auduteau . 
 Gaudrie . 
 Cannaud . 
 
 ST. SEURIN DE BOURG. 
 
 H. de Bellot 
 Berthaud 
 Dupuy . 
 Peychaud 
 Dumeynieu . 
 Dupayrat 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 120 to 160 
 
 80 „ 
 
 120 
 
 80 „ 
 
 100 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Labourdete . 
 Bayard . 
 Paquier . 
 Poirie (Veuve) 
 Clou . 
 Roy 
 
 Hhds. 
 60 to 80 
 40 ,, 48 
 40 ,, 60 
 40 ,, 60 
 40 ,, 60 
 40 ,, 60 
 
 COMPS. 
 
 Paty , . . , 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Roy, J 
 
 Bayard ... . . 
 Duranthon . . 
 Faure . . 
 Etiez 
 
 Hhds. 
 40 to 48 
 40 ,, 48 
 40 ,, 48 
 48 „ 60 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Pauvif . . 
 Roy (Veuve) 
 Gamier . 
 Cailleux . 
 Dusson 
 
 
 
 80 
 40 
 120 
 80 
 48 
 
 , 100 
 , 48 
 , 160 
 , 100 
 
 > 72 
 
X.] 
 
 WHITE WINES OF CdTES. 
 
 37S 
 
 ST. CIERS DE CANESSE. 
 
 Deschamps, i la Erolet 
 Largeteau, k Guibonnet 
 Abiet, aux Adouins . 
 Laveaux, au Sclaponier 
 Demons, au bourg 
 Plumeau, \ Perroland 
 Garceau, k Berbillot . 
 Maurin, aux Arneaud . 
 Roy, do. 
 Siiiau, a Bitot . 
 Lemeau-Nestor . 
 Rousset . 
 Arneaud 
 Eoyer 
 Chariot 
 
 Hhds. II 
 
 320 to 
 
 400 
 
 ,320 „ 
 
 400 
 
 120 „ 
 
 160 
 
 120 „ 
 
 160 
 
 120 ,, 
 
 160 
 
 120 „ 
 
 160 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 4S„ 
 
 60 
 
 160 „ 
 
 200 
 
 40 .. 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Gravereau .... 
 
 Eymerit 
 
 Herit., k Berbillot . 
 Degarde, do. 
 Laveaud .... 
 
 Dulorier 
 
 Quimeaud .... 
 Dulaurier (Veuve) . 
 
 Etier 
 
 Hereaud .... 
 Hereaud, \ Guibonnet 
 Hereaud .... 
 Selou 
 Sou . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 100 to 
 
 140 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 100 „ 
 
 1 20 
 
 100 ,, 
 
 120 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 80 „ 
 
 104 
 
 40 - 
 
 48 
 
 40 .. 
 
 48 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 80 „ 
 
 1 20 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 48 
 
 40 .. 
 
 48 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS OP THE DISTRICT ON THE 
 RIGHT BANK OF THE GARONNE, PRODUCING WHITE 
 WINES. 
 
 (Showing under the name of ecu:h commune the names of proprietors and the number 
 of hogsheads of wine annually produced. ) 
 
 BAURECH. 
 
 Hhd 
 
 5. 
 
 4810 
 
 60 
 
 60 ,, 
 
 72 
 
 4« ., 
 
 60 
 
 48,. 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 4«„ 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 24 .■ 
 
 32 
 
 32 =. 
 
 40 
 
 4«„ 
 
 60 
 
 32 ,, 
 
 40 
 
 28,, 
 
 36 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 160 ,, 
 
 200 
 
 Roujol 
 
 Sorbe (Veuve) . . . . 
 De la Chassaigne . . . 
 De Lambert-Desgranges 
 
 Boyrie 
 
 De Labadie 
 
 De Lafaye . . . 
 
 Ferchaut 
 
 De Laprade . . . 
 
 De Labordere .... 
 
 Decanole 
 
 Vitrac 
 
 L'H6telier 
 
 Ab. de Lacaussade . . 
 Heritiers de G. de La- 
 caussade 
 
 Labadie de Lalande . . 
 
 Coullaud 
 
 Lafitte 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 320 to 400 
 480 ,, 600 
 
 320 , 
 
 280 , 
 
 400 
 320 
 
 200 , 
 140 , 
 140 , 
 160 , 
 
 240 
 180 
 160 
 200 
 
 200 , 
 140 , 
 
 240 
 160 
 
 120 , 
 80 , 
 
 140 
 IOC 
 
 60 , 
 60 , 
 
 72 
 80 
 
 80 , 
 
 100 
 
 24 , 
 
 32 
 
 32 , 
 60 , 
 
 40 
 72 
 
 Damesuil 
 
 Calve et Techeney 
 Larrieu ... 
 Lespagne ... 
 Ferchaut freres 
 
 Vincent 
 
 Geraud 
 
 Deneuville ... 
 
 Videau 
 
 Bourdere, P. and B. . 
 
 Dauben 
 
 Fieux 
 
 Heritiers Fenelon . 
 Cadix-Remond 
 
 Phillippe 
 
 Pareau 
 
 Heritiers de J. Ricard . 
 Sundry small proprietors 
 
376 
 
 WHITE WINES OF 
 
 [chap. 
 
 TABANAC. 
 
 G. de Gaulne 
 Roujol, sen. 
 Valette . . 
 S . de Lognac 
 Clauzel . 
 De Laprade 
 De Longuenie 
 Dupuch . , 
 Lacoste . 
 
 Hhds. Il 
 
 800 to 
 
 1000 
 
 440 ,. 
 440 » 
 
 480 
 480 
 
 290 ,, 
 
 400 
 
 300 .. 
 240 „ 
 120 „ 
 
 320 
 260 
 160 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 De Lacaussade 
 Renou . 
 Lataste . 
 Blanc . . 
 Grosselie 
 Queyrus . . 
 Sundry vineyards under 
 48 hhds. . . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 80 to 100 
 80 „ 100 
 80 „ ICO 
 80 ,, 100 
 60 „ 80 
 48 „ 60 
 
 IOOO„ 1040 
 
 LE TOURNE. 
 
 P. Gentin (Chateau de Pie) 
 Cazaux (Domaine de la 
 
 Ronde) 
 
 Laclaverie 
 Cazeau . . 
 Lescours 
 
 Hhds. 
 260 to 280 
 
 60 
 60 
 
 220 
 60 
 80 
 80 
 
 Balin (Veuve) .... 
 Laville . . . . 
 
 Berlin 
 
 Vincent 
 
 Sundry growths under 
 40 hhds 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 48 to 60 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 80 „- 100 
 
 400 ,, 480 
 
 LANGOIRAN. 
 
 Faux . . . . 
 Chaize (Veuve) 
 Deveze . . . . 
 Dureau . . . . 
 Merlande (Veuve) 
 Dumas . . , . 
 De Ramond 
 Gazeau 
 
 Andrieu . . . . 
 Desbats . 
 Lupsol . 
 Gauvry . 
 Tarteyron . 
 Virvalois (Veuve) . 
 Erbens . . . 
 Roux . . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 240 to 280 
 
 160 , 
 
 200 
 
 160 , 
 
 200 
 
 iCo , 
 
 180 
 
 120 , 
 
 160 
 
 120 , 
 
 160 
 
 140 , 
 
 160 
 
 80, 
 
 100 
 
 ICO , 
 
 120 
 
 100 , 
 
 120 
 
 100 , 
 
 120 
 
 100 , 
 
 1 20 
 
 100 , 
 
 120 
 
 80 , 
 
 100 
 
 60 , 
 
 80 
 
 60, 
 
 80 
 
 Azera (Veuve) 
 
 Bedro (Veuve) . 
 
 Sabes 
 
 Caussade 
 
 Bourdelles freres 
 
 Demptos freres 
 
 Labroue . 
 
 Ferchaut 
 
 Coeflfen 
 
 Mande 
 
 Gassiot . 
 
 Joly . . . 
 
 Sundry other vineyards, 
 producing under 40 
 hhds 
 
 Hhds 1 
 
 60 to 
 
 80 
 
 60 „ 
 
 72 
 
 4« ,> 
 
 60 
 
 4«,, 
 
 60 
 
 4«„ 
 
 60 
 
 4«.. 
 
 60 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 4«„ 
 
 60 
 
 40 ., 
 
 48 
 
 40 >. 
 
 48 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 800 „ 1000 
 
 LESTIAC. 
 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 
 Red. 
 
 While. 
 
 Raffet . 
 
 220 
 
 100 
 
 Despagne 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 40 
 
 Leglise . 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 60 
 
 Itey freres 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 40 
 
 Hellies . 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 20 
 
 Helles, E. 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 Cadillon . 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 
 Baillon- Perot . 
 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 Helhes, sen. 
 Hellies . 
 Berges 
 Bourdelles . 
 Dubroqua 
 Dandieu 
 Faux . 
 Baillon . , 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 Red. 
 
 White. 
 
 60 
 
 20 
 
 40 
 
 40 
 
 60 
 
 
 60 
 
 — 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 60 
 
 — 
 
X.] 
 
 COTES OF GARONNE. 
 
 377 
 
 LESTI AC — contin ued. 
 
 Hellies, F. . . 
 Lassagne-Lahorre 
 
 Charouseil . . 
 
 Caraute . . 
 
 Piganneaii . 
 
 De Melet . . 
 Lagune . 
 
 Hhds. 
 Red. White. 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 
 40 
 
 20 
 60 
 
 40 
 60 
 
 20 
 
 40 
 
 — 
 
 ~ 
 
 40 
 
 Castaing . 
 Duman . 
 Vignes 
 F. Hellies . 
 Ducros frires 
 Gauthier . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Red. 
 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 
 White. 
 40 
 
 PAILLET. 
 
 Monsarrat . 
 Bousbon 
 Desbats ... 
 Cousseux 
 Couronneau 
 Sadran . 
 Cuttoli . . 
 Sauteyron . 
 Lahille . 
 Rieutord (Veuve) 
 Garaud . 
 Ducros . 
 Vignes . 
 
 Hhds. II 
 
 320 to 
 
 400 
 
 .^20 „ 
 
 400 
 
 180 „ 
 
 200 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 100 „ 
 
 120 
 
 80 ., 
 
 ICO 
 
 48 „ 
 
 60 
 
 4« „ 
 
 60 
 
 4« ., 
 
 60 
 
 4« „ 
 
 60 
 
 4«,. 
 
 60 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Abraham . 
 Dumas . 
 Jannaut . 
 Gros . 
 Rousset . 
 Dumas (Veuve' 
 Gros . 
 Cousseau 
 Beynis 
 Briol . . . 
 Sundry growers, prO' 
 ducing under 40 lihds. 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 40 to 
 
 48 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 48 
 
 40 .. 
 
 48 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 32 „ 
 
 40 
 
 600 „ 
 
 680 
 
 RIONS. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 1 
 
 Lacombe 
 
 240 to 280 
 
 Dorgueuilh . 
 
 80 to 
 
 100 
 
 Constantin ... 
 
 240 ,, 280 
 
 Garaud . . 
 
 72 „ 
 
 88 
 
 De Geres . 
 
 220 ,, 240 
 
 Darcos-Guv 
 
 72 „ 
 
 88 
 
 Pery . . ... 
 
 200 ,, 220 
 
 Mathereau . 
 
 72 „ 
 
 88 
 
 De Galard 
 
 200 , 220 
 
 Bourdelles.( Veuve) 
 
 60 „ 
 
 80 
 
 Labarthe 
 
 200 ,, 220 
 
 Arnaud d'Armiche 
 
 48 ,. 
 
 60 
 
 Mutel ... . . 
 
 180 ,, 200 
 
 De Caupenne . 
 
 48 „ 
 
 60 
 
 Roussereau . . . 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Aribaud . . 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 De Peyronnin . . 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 Leglise . . 
 
 48 „ 
 
 60 
 
 Garaud . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Gassiot-Autapis 
 
 48 „ 
 
 60 
 
 Desessard 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Gaudin . 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 Briol 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Taudin 
 
 48,, 
 
 60 
 
 Videau . . • 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Silliman . . . . 
 
 40 ., 
 
 48 
 
 Martin . . . . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Sensine . 
 
 40 „ 
 
 48 
 
 Les Cannes 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Sedrac-Merle . . 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 48 
 
 Bordes . . . . 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Samonayre . 
 
 40 ,. 
 
 48 
 
 Heritiers Thibaud 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Tallet ... 
 
 40 .. 
 
 48 
 
 Dumas ..... 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Carasset ... . . 
 
 40 .. 
 
 48 
 
 Fourcassies-Elies 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Clarens 
 
 40 ., 
 
 48 
 
 Vidau-Piscaut .... 
 
 80 „ IOC 
 
 Restouilh freres . . 
 
 40 ,, 
 
 48 
 
 Cazentre . ^. . . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Ptee 
 
 40 ., 
 
 48 
 
378 
 
 WHITE WINES OF COTES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 BEGUEY. 
 
 Medeville . . 
 De Parroutz 
 Laspeyreres 
 Chiapella . 
 Maydieu . . . 
 Brostaret . . 
 Redeuilh 
 Medeville . . 
 W. de Wormilly 
 Pouclian . . 
 Simon . . . 
 Redeuilh, H. . 
 
 Hhds. II 
 
 320 
 
 to 
 
 360 
 
 200 
 
 
 240 
 
 160 
 
 
 200 
 
 120 
 
 
 160 
 
 120 
 
 
 140 
 
 100 
 
 
 120 
 
 100 
 
 
 120 
 
 100 
 
 
 120 
 
 100 
 
 
 120 
 
 80 
 
 
 100 
 
 80 
 
 
 100 
 
 60 
 
 
 80 
 
 Orangey (Veuve) 
 D'Autin (Veuve) 
 Charriaud 
 Gassies . 
 Dupuy . 
 Chatellier 
 Beziat 
 Brousse . 
 Boudinot 
 Videau . 
 Espilere . 
 Smaller grovifers 
 
 Hhds. 
 40 to 60 
 48 „ 60 
 48 „ 60 
 48 ,, 60 
 48 
 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 
 40 „ 48 
 400 „ 480 
 
 48 
 
 CADILLAC. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Desbats . • • 
 
 400 to 480 
 
 Richet 
 
 60 to 80 
 
 Baudet . . 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Fourcassies 
 
 
 180 „ 200 
 
 Bonneval .... 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Beziat . . 
 
 
 60 ,, 80 
 
 Dupart 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 C. Bernachet 
 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 Baret 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Carasset . . 
 
 
 48 ,, 60 
 
 Worms 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Medeville, L 
 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Mernais-Tillhet . . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Medeville, sen. 
 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Medeville 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Boisson . . 
 
 • - 
 
 100 ,, 120 
 
 Cazeaux . .... 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Bonnefoux 
 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Moreau . . ... 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Faurie . . 
 
 
 48 „ 60 
 
 Mathelot . . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Riaubert . . 
 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Homau . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Fouquet . . 
 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Dupouy 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Lataste . ... 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Dubacquier . . . 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Tauzin . . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Augey ... ... 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Sundry growers . . 
 
 600 ,, 680 
 
 Mathelot, sen. 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 Fouquet, M. . . 
 
 40 ,, 48 
 
 Mutel 
 
 60 „ 80 
 
 
 
 LOUPIAC. 
 
 Lachassagne . 
 Leuger . . 
 De Marcellus 
 Coureges . 
 Goineau . 
 Mingaud 
 Dezeimeris 
 
 Hhds. 
 200 to 240 
 120 ,, 140 
 100 ,, 120 
 100 ,, 120 
 100 ,, 120 
 80 ,, 100 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Cluzaut 
 Meyssac . 
 Gucrin 
 Promis 
 Bore . . 
 Fonvielle . 
 
 Hhds. 
 80 to 100 
 80 ,, 100 
 60 ,, 80 
 72 „ 80 
 60 ,, 80 
 48 „ 56 
 
 ST. CROIX DU MQNT. 
 
 Lafon 
 
 De RoUand (Chateau La- 
 marque, half white and 
 half red) .... 
 
 Turman 
 
 Gensounet-Feuillard . 
 
 Dresky 
 
 Vignal . . . . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 160 to 200 
 
 560 ,, 600 
 180 ,, 200 
 40 ,, 48 
 100 ,, 120 
 100 ,,120 
 
 De Marbotin 
 Bayle . . . 
 Garret . . 
 Andrie . . 
 Lupine 
 Boucherie 
 Mazet (Veuve) 
 
 Hhds. 
 100 to 120 
 120 ,, 140 
 120 ,, 140 
 200 ,, 220 
 48 ,, 60 
 120 ,, 140 
 100 ,, 120 
 
X.] 
 
 PALUS AND ENTRE DEUX MERS. 
 
 379 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS OF THE DISTRICT OF THE 
 MARSHES (PALUS, ENTRE DEUX MERS). 
 
 (Sk<m)ing under the heading of each community the names of the properties and 
 proprietors, and the number of hogsheads of wine annually produced. ) ' 
 
 PREMIERES PALUS. — First Section. 
 
 Wines of Queyries. — First Growths. 
 
 Lambert 
 Farouil . 
 Silvestre 
 
 De Moyencourt 
 Bouthier 
 Gallier . . 
 
 Hhds. 
 60 to 100 
 80 ,, 120 
 72 „ 80 
 
 Jones 
 Pineau 
 
 Nard . . 
 De Pineau . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 40 to 48 
 
 ICO „ 120 
 
 Second Growths. 
 
 Millas . . . 
 
 Bichon . . 
 
 Lachabanne 
 
 Hourquebie 
 
 Peixotto . . . 
 
 Samouillan 
 
 Luques . . . 
 
 Brumereau 
 
 Lauzac . . 
 
 Faure . 
 
 Navarre . . . 
 
 Lalande . 
 
 Hhds. 
 140 to 160 
 144 .. 152 
 48 „ 56 
 80 „ 88 
 88 „ 100 
 24 ,, 28 
 
 Peclie 
 
 Balguerie 
 Chiapella 
 Martin . 
 Deleze . 
 Fatin . 
 Aubert . 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 120 to 144 
 60 „ 80 
 80 „ 96 
 60 ,, 80 
 80 „ 100 
 
 120 ,, 160 
 
 
 
 Second Section. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 De Pineau . . 
 
 80 to 100 
 
 Navarre . . 
 
 Lalande . 
 
 56 to 64 
 
 Pleu .... 
 
 Feaugas . . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Peixotto . . . 
 
 Samouillan . 
 
 104 „ 112 
 
 Behcade . . . 
 
 Bouthier . . 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Lacan . . . 
 
 Dasvin . . . 
 
 32 „ 40 
 
 Deleze . . . 
 
 Galtier . . . 
 
 80 ,, 100 
 
 Pgche . . . 
 
 Balguerie . . 
 
 64 >, 72 
 
 DEUXIEMES PALUS. 
 
 At Montf errand. 
 
 Lafon . . 
 Planteoigne 
 De la Seigliere 
 Aymon . . 
 H. Deves . 
 Kleber-Dulac . 
 P. and A. Raba 
 Meller, A. 
 Troplong 
 Meller, A. 
 Brannens 
 Castoneau 
 Courtes . 
 H. Devez 
 
 D. de Sigs 
 T. Dupuy 
 
 E. Duroy 
 Gagneron 
 
 Gonzales 
 
 
 Hh 
 160 to 
 
 Js. 
 200 
 
 Gradis . ... 
 Groulie . 
 
 400 , 
 80 , 
 
 480 
 
 120 
 
 Lapeyre 
 
 160, 
 
 140 , 
 
 80, 
 
 400 , 
 
 240 
 160 
 
 De Lignac 
 Maccarthy 
 Maillere et 1 
 
 
 VIories . . 
 
 600 
 
 Veuve Molescaut . . . 
 
 100 , 
 
 160 
 
 Bourdil 
 
 120 , 
 
 160 
 
 
 160 , 
 
 80, 
 
 200 , 
 
 200 , 
 
 
 Mengar 
 
 100 
 
 Promis-Bousquet . . . 
 Delisse-Carmes . . . 
 
 240 
 240 
 
 Chariol 
 
 72 , 
 
 80 
 
 
 
 80 , 
 100 , 
 
 
 De Furnel 
 
 
 120 
 
 Chalus . 
 
 
 48 . 
 
 60 
 
 Pontet . 
 
 
 48, 
 
 , 60 
 
38o 
 
 RED WINES OF PALUS. 
 
 [chap. X. 
 
 At Bassens. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Ladonne . . . 
 
 280 to 300 
 
 Veuve Guillori .... 
 
 120 to 140 
 
 Fiimois 
 
 240 ,, 260 
 
 Bichon . . 
 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Paria ...... 
 
 240 „ 260 
 
 Daene . . 
 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Veuve Rodrigiies . . 
 
 160 „ 180 
 
 D. de Siglas . 
 
 
 92 „ 112 
 
 Guillori 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Chaigneau 
 
 
 92 ,, 100 
 
 Femere 
 
 140 ,, 160 
 
 Sterling . 
 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 De Montbrun-Lavalette . 
 
 140 ., 160 
 
 Duroy 
 
 
 80 „ loo 
 
 Mann . . 
 
 140 ,, 160 
 
 Veuve Clavel 
 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 Steiner . . . . 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 Veuve de Sarreau . 
 
 
 80 „ 96 
 
 TERRAINS. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 
 Hhds. 
 
 Durand ... 
 
 360 to 380 
 
 Espinasse . . 
 
 140 to 160 
 
 De Villepreux .... 
 
 320 „ 360 
 
 R. de Lussan 
 
 120 ,, 140 
 
 Digne ... . . 
 
 260 „ 280 
 
 Veuve Bonnet .... 
 
 120 „ 140 
 
 Bichon . ... 
 
 240 ,, 260 
 
 Lacaze .... 
 
 160 ,, 200 
 
 Rochefort .... 
 
 220 „ 240 
 
 Veuve du Fremont ' . . 
 
 100 „ 120 
 
 Fabre .... 
 
 180 ,, 200 
 
 De Sarreau ... 
 
 100 „ 112 
 
 Drouet . . ... 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Veuve Hauchecom 
 
 100 ,, 112 
 
 Barre . 
 
 loo „ 160 
 
 Larraud ... 
 
 96 „ 112 
 
 Petit 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Veuve Goudin . 
 
 96 „ 104 
 
 Leutz . . . . 
 
 140 „ 160 
 
 Veuve Goujes 
 
 80 „ 100 
 
 
 TROISIEM 
 
 ES PALUS. 
 
 Quinsac. 
 
 
 St. Gervais. 
 
 Camblanes. 
 
 
 Les Valantons. 
 
 Bouillac. 
 
 
 Bacalon. 
 
 Ambes. 
 
 
 
 QUATRIEMES PALUS. 
 
 Macau. 
 La Tresne. 
 Beautiran. 
 
 St. Louies. 
 Ison. 
 
 CINQUIEMES PALUS. 
 
 St. Gervais. 
 Culzac. 
 St. Romain. 
 
 Asque. 
 
 L'lle St. Georges. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 WINES OF ROUSSILLON AND LANGUEDOC. 
 
 WiKES OF RoussiLLON, THE ORIENTAL Pyr^n^es : Topography and varieties 
 of vines. ^-Mode of cultivation. — Mode of making the Muscat wine. — Mode 
 of making the Malvoisie and Maccabeo wines. — Vineyard of Perpignan. — 
 Recapitulation of the wines of Roussillon. — Shipment of the wines of 
 Roussillon. — Wines of Languedoc : Topography. — Soil. — Of the vines cul- 
 tivated. — Terret-noir, Terret-bouret, Aramon, Oiillade, Aspiran. — Cultivation of 
 the vine. — Secateur ; Vintage ; Yields ; Vinification.^Distinguished growths of 
 the Department of the Aude. — Ditto of the Gard. — Langlade. — St. Gilles. — 
 Vinification at St. Gilles. — White wines of St. Gilles, how made. — The 
 remarkable growths of the Herault. — Muscat wines. — Frontignan. — Lunel. — 
 Manufacture of Troissix and Eau-de-vie at Montpelier. 
 
 ROUSSILLON, THE ORIENTAL PYR^N^ES.— TOPOGRAPHY 
 AND VARIETIES OF VINES. 
 
 Roussillon is the name of an ancient province of France 
 now merged in the department of the Oriental Pyr^ndes. 
 Its name has been preserved by its wines, and certainly its 
 wines were, and in part are yet, its only or principal wealth. 
 There are here more than 50,000 hectares of vineyards. Three 
 kinds of wine are produced — liqueur wines, dry wines, and 
 wines which are in such a condition that they can be used 
 for the manufacture of anything — factitious port in particular. 
 It is to the fortified wines — particularly red wines — that 
 Roussillon owes its reputation. The most celebrated vine- 
 yards of the district are those of Banyuls-sur-Mer, Collioure, 
 Port-Vendres, Rivesalte, and Perpignan. Banyuls-sur-Mer is 
 very near the Spanish frontier, in the warmest part of the 
 Eastern Pyrenees, and has an area of about 4,500 hectares. 
 
382 VINES OF ROUSSILLON. [chap. xi. 
 
 Most of the vineyards are on slopes. The lower ones situated 
 in the plain are on alluvial soil. The slopes are schistose. 
 
 The prevailing vines, almost the exclusive vines of the 
 district, are the Grenache noir and the Carignane. The 
 Grenache is almost always planted on the heights, and that 
 in the whole of the Roussillon district. This vine is recog- 
 nized by the light-brown colour of the one year's wood, 
 bearing black points, and dark brown stripes. The nodes 
 are strongly thickened and large, a little darker than the 
 wood, and stand close together. The leaves are well deve- 
 loped, three-lobed, and of a lively green. The grape is large, 
 loose, most frequently pyramidal, but with uneven berries, 
 and otherwise deformed by accident during blossom time. 
 Its colour is bluish black. It is covered with a strong bloom, 
 and has a fine taste, in which sweetness and perfume prevail. 
 Its skin is thin, and it ripens early. The second variety, the 
 Carignane, is less fertile and less delicate than the former. 
 It grows in the lower parts of the vineyards and gives dry 
 wine. The nodes of its canes are very close together. Its 
 leaves are large and five-lobed, and their bays very deeply 
 cut. It has a fine green colour. The grape is long, round, 
 uneven, and blackish blue, and has a strong bloom. It 
 ripens late, has a thick skin, and its taste is less sweet than 
 that of the Grenache. The ordinary Banyuls wines are 
 generally made of two-thirds of Grenache and one-third of 
 Carignane grapes. There are sometimes other vines mixed 
 with these two varieties, such as the Mataro and the Picpoule. 
 The Mataro also bears a blackish grape, which is sweet and 
 early. The Picpoule is a vine which occurs in several depart- 
 ments of the south of France, in the Bouches-du-Rh6ne, in 
 the Herault, and the Gard. These latter varieties, according 
 to Lenoir, give only a mediocre wine. 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 The soil is deeply grubbed, generally v/ith the mattock. 
 Plantation is effected between December and April. Canes 
 only are planted. A hole is made in the ground by means 
 of an iron rod, the cane is inserted, and the hole is filled up 
 
'ill ^ 
 
 t'.«^ 
 
 ^ J * J * 1 " » 
 
 
 •c 
 o 
 
384 VINES OF ROUSSILLON. [chap. 
 
 with fine loose earth. The distance of the vines from each 
 other is one metre every way. Digging is frequently adopted 
 along the slopes ; in other parts the plough is used. Vacan- 
 cies which arise after the third and fourth year are filled up 
 by provines. Grafting is effected upon such plants as are 
 known to be of bad quality, and the grafted joint is always 
 put in the ground. The young vines are cut upon three 
 branches in the third year. The ordinary cutting is performed 
 in the winter. Upon each branch there are two eyes left. 
 The young branches are generally not shortened in, and the 
 surplus branches are not taken off till the middle of the 
 summer. The vines begin to bear in their third and fourth 
 years, and are at their best at eight or ten years. The vintage 
 begins in the early part of October. On the slopes the 
 hectare gives, on an average, 15 hectolitres of wine, but the 
 plain yields 25 hectolitres. The grapes are mashed by tread- 
 ing, and the berries are not separated from the stalks. The 
 cuvage is mostly performed in barrels, from which the top has 
 been removed. The plastering of the must is not uncommon 
 in this district, and contributes, in our opinion, not a little to 
 make the Roussillon wine flat and mawkish, and to deprive 
 it of that refreshing acidity which alone makes sugary wines 
 tolerable. 
 
 The wine made from the Grenache is manufactured in 
 a particular manner. No other grapes are mixed with the 
 Grenache for that purpose. The grapes are carried to the 
 press and transformed into mash, and after the must has 
 been drawn off, two litres of proof spirit are added to every 
 hundred litres of the liquor, and the mixture is put immediately 
 into well-sulphured casks. A fortnight later the wine is 
 racked, and the racking is repeated every month for about 
 six months, till the wine remains clear. It must be left in 
 cask for fifteen years before it can be drunk. 
 
 The vineyard of Collioure has 800 hectares, that of Port- 
 Vendres 600 hectares. Here there are the same soil, the 
 same varieties of vines, the same exposures, and almost the 
 same modes of treatment as at Banyuls. The Collioure wines 
 have a good colour, much body, and what the French call 
 
XL] MODE OF CULTIVATION. 385 
 
 generosity, and are drier wines than the Banyuls. By age 
 they acquire finesse, and a pronounced bouquet. They gain 
 much by remaining in the barrel, and they should never be 
 bottled before they are ten years old. At that age they 
 have lost their colour, and have become straw-yellow, or 
 golden, and have assumed that character which the Spaniards 
 call rancio. The wines in this district are generally sold 
 shortly after the vintage, and the proprietors, rarely retain 
 even a small quantity in their cellars. Their price always is 
 the price of new wine. The Banyuls, CoUioures, and Port- 
 Vendres sell at 15 francs the hectohtre (without barrel). At 
 ten years old the hectolitre fetches 60 francs, at fifteen years 
 80 francs ; and wine which is twenty years old may obtain 
 from 100 to 150 francs the hectolitre. Most of these wines 
 go to the United States, to be there manufactured into liqueur 
 wines, and to the Brazils, to be drunk as dry wines. Cette 
 and Marseilles take considerable quantities to work them up 
 into whatever may be demanded. The vineyard of Rive- 
 saltes is the most important on account of its size, having 
 10,500 hectares. Of these, one-half is on slopes and exposed 
 to the mid-day sun. It is planted with five principal vines, 
 of which we know the Carignane, the Grenache, the Mataro, 
 and the black Picpoule ; but another vine is peculiar, and 
 that is the Clairette, which is also sometimes improperly called 
 the Blanquette. This latter vine has cinnamon red canes and 
 pale green leaves, which are three- or five-lobed. The bunches 
 are pyramidal with wings, and among the grapes are many 
 that are oval, half transparent, golden yellow, and bloomy, 
 having a sugary taste and a thick skin. They ripen late, and 
 give a fine wine, which when young is sweet, and afterwards 
 becomes dry, and is qualified to be transformed into effer- 
 vescent wine. 
 
 This vine is identical with that which in our account of the 
 Wiirtzburg district we have described under the name of Her- 
 mitage. In Germany it is known under the name of white 
 Muscat Sylvaner. We remark, however, that we have found 
 several vines in Picardy and Limoux, and other parts of France, 
 which were termed Clairette or Blanquette, and which were 
 
 c c 
 
386 MODE OF MAKING MUSCAT, [chap. 
 
 similar to, but not quite identical with, each other. Three- 
 fourths of the vines of Rivesaltes are Carignane. This variety, 
 together with the Mataro, gives body and colour to the wines 
 of these parts. The Grenache added in small quantity gives 
 softness and liveliness to the wine ; but in general all the 
 Grenache grapes are selected, and the so-called sweet black 
 Roussillons are made of it. The plantation and treatment 
 of the vine, and the making of the wine, are the same as 
 at Collioure. Many of the wines go to America. In the 
 first year they fetch 1 2 francs the hectolitre, in the fifth year 
 from 25 to 30 francs. Their value is not more than 100 francs 
 at from ten to thirty years old. It is, however, unlikely that 
 in the present state of the science of mixing and manufac- 
 turing wines, and at the present price, any considerable 
 quantity should attain that age. Rivesaltes makes what is 
 called specialities which have a limited reputation. Such are 
 the Muscat, the Maccabeo, the Malvoisie, the Grenache, and 
 the Rancio. Of the Muscat wine at Rivesaltes about 300 
 hectolitres are made. They are the produce of a special 
 variety of vine called the Muscat of Rivesaltes. The Mac- 
 cabeo is also a special variety of vine, and produces about 
 60 hectolitres of wine which bears its name. The Malvoisie 
 is a vine with small leaves, which are nearly round, and have 
 the five lobes only slightly pronounced. Its grape ripens 
 early, and of its wine about 40 hectolitres are annually made. 
 These vines are not mixed in the vineyards with other vines, 
 but are kept by themselves in distinct compartments of the 
 vineyards. This seems to be particularly necessary in order 
 to prevent the workmen from cutting them in the same style 
 as the Grenache and the Carignane ; for if this were done, 
 they would yield very little wine. 
 
 MODE OF MAKING THE MUSCAT WINE. 
 The grapes are allowed to hang on the plant, or, if cut, 
 exposed on trays to the sun until they have become shrunk 
 and raisin-like. They are then trodden with the feet, or 
 mashed between cylinders, the stalks not being removed, and 
 conveyed to the press. The must which is obtained has a 
 
XI.] MALVOISIE, AND MACCABEO WINES. 387 
 
 great density. It is put in barrels and left to itself. The 
 barrels are not filled up, but when the fermentation is nearly- 
 complete the wine is racked. In the first year the Muscat, of 
 Rivesaltes has more resemblance to syrup than to wine, and in 
 that respect it finds its parallel in the latest forms of the wines 
 of Sauternes, which we have described in another chapter ; 
 but in the second year it becomes more clean, and acquires 
 that finesse, that fire, and, above all things, that muscat 
 bouquet, which impart to it its celebrated character. Jullien 
 pronounces it one of the best liqueur wines of the world, 
 provided It comes from a good year, and is old. Rendu 
 advises that it should not be kept very long, and that it 
 should be drunk while the perfume is fresh, for its bouquet is 
 transient, and becomes changed with age, although, perhaps, 
 the wine obtains other qualities at the same time. At ten 
 years it ought to be drunk. The average price of Rivesaltes 
 wine is from 80 to 100 francs the hectolitre. 
 
 MODE OF MAKING THE MALVOISIE AND MACCABEO 
 WINES. 
 
 The vinification of the Maccabeo and the Malvoisie is a 
 little different from that of the Muscat. The grapes used for 
 them are not allowed to dry either on the vine or by them- 
 selves. The Maccabeo grape is mashed and pressed, and the 
 juice is immediately put in a pan over the fire. When the 
 scum is rising the liquid is allowed to cool, and is put into 
 barrels, together with a certain quantity of proof spirit. It is 
 racked once a month for six months. Such wine tastes of little 
 else than sugar, spirit, and acid. In the making of Malvoisie 
 the grapes are carried to the press with the utmost care, for 
 it has been found that if they are at all injured they lose 
 much of their flavour. They are immediately placed in 
 the press, the juice obtained is put in barrels, mixed with 
 proof spirit, and allowed to ferment as long as possible. 
 When the fermentation has ceased the wine is racked, and a 
 little more proof spirit is added. The wine is racked only 
 twice during the first year. Sometimes dry Malvoisie wine is 
 also made. In this case the berries are taken from the stalks 
 
 c c 2 
 
388 VINEYARD OF PERPIGNAN. [chap. 
 
 and the juice is allowed to ferment itself out during six or 
 seven days. We believe that in France, Germany, and 
 England, the days of these sugar-syrup wines are over. They 
 now go only to parts where the other so-called dry wines are 
 little understood, — Russia and America, and where a profusion 
 of mixtures are drunk by the higher and lower classes of the 
 population. They are made generally of distilled spirits, 
 sugar, and some flavoury spice and dye. The quantity of 
 these wines produced in the South of France has never in- 
 creased, small as it is ; and as no wines or liqueurs are so 
 capable of falsification as these, we believe that, in the course 
 of time, the genuine wines will disappear ; the factitious wines 
 will hold the field, and when the world has discovered their 
 nature, it will cease to drink them. 
 
 VINEYARD OF PERPIGNAJST. 
 
 The produce of this vineyard is inferior to that of Banyuls 
 and Rivesaltes, owing mainly to the fact that two-thirds of 
 its 5,000 hectares are situated in the plain. The portion 
 which lies on the slopes rises hardly a few feet above the level 
 of the sea. The soil is clay, and in several parts chalky ; and 
 there are everywhere rolled pebbles, as in the Mddoc. The 
 vines are the same as in Rivesaltes. The vintage takes place 
 between September 25 and October 15. The quantity 
 of wine obtained is from 8 to 16 hectolitres per hectare. The 
 wine is left in the cuves during 25 to 36 days. The lower 
 classes of wines are always treated with plaster, — a practice 
 which we have fully exposed in the chapter devoted to that 
 subject. The white wines, if sweet, are put in bottles in 
 March. The red wines remain in the barrels. The wines 
 which it is intended to age are left in barrel at least fifteen 
 years. When they are kept in glass they retain their colour, 
 while when kept in wood they lose much of it, as is the case 
 with port wines and others. Those wines which are kept in 
 glass from the first, are decanted into fresh bottles after the 
 first year, and after the second, the fourth, the sixth, the 
 eighth, the tenth, and the fifteenth years. If they are de- 
 canted more frequently, they lose their alcoholic strength, and 
 
XI.] RECAPITULATIONS SHIPMENT. 389 
 
 their bouquet ; but such wines are altogether fancy luxuries, 
 and we ourselves have never tasted any which, in our opinion, 
 was worth the trouble bestowed upon it. The wines of the 
 plain of Perpignan sell, if their age is from one to six years, 
 at from 12 to 25 francs the hectolitre ; the eight years' wines 
 fetch so francs ; the ten yeans', 60 francs ; and the fifteen 
 years', 100 francs. Wine thirty years old is sometimes sold at 
 200 francs. Much of the wine grown here goes to North and 
 South America, to Genoa, Cette, and Marseilles, and to a few 
 inland places of France, — Lyons among them. Some used to 
 go to Chalons-sur-Sa6ne, and thence into the rest of Eastern 
 France and Switzerland, to be used for mixing with the 
 products of those localities. In the Canton of Perpignan 
 there is produced a kind of rancio, called Torremila, which 
 may be termed a true French Madeira. There are other wines 
 which are very dark in the first years, but which at fifteen 
 years become yellow, or straw-yellow. Of the Torremila wine 
 a Mousseux is made. 
 
 RECAPITULATION OF THE WINES OF ROUSSILLON. 
 
 The most esteemed liqueur wines of Roussillon are the 
 Muscat of Rivesaltes, the Maccabeo, the Grenache, and the 
 Malvoisie. 
 
 Among the dry wines are the Rancios of Banyuls-sur-Mer, 
 of Torremila, of Rivesaltes, and of Terrats ; dry Malvoisie and 
 Picpoule. Torremila furnishes, besides, a very celebrated 
 white Mousseux. 
 
 Among the red or commercial liqueur wines, those which 
 take the first rank are Banyuls-sur-Mer, Collioure, and Port- 
 Vendrcs, Corneilla-de-la-Riviere, Pezilla-de-la-Riviere, Tau- 
 tavel, Montner, and Banyuls-des-Aspres. 
 
 Among the dry ordinaries must be mentioned the wines 
 of Espira-de-la-Gly, Rivesalte.s, Baixas, Salces, Millas, Saint- 
 Andr6, and the two Cantons of Perpignan. 
 
 SHIPMENT OF THE WINES OF ROUSSILLON. 
 
 The barrels in which the Roussillon wine is made are small, 
 and of the size of the barriques of Bordeaux. The wine is 
 
39° 
 
 WINES OF LANCUEDOC. [cHAP. 
 
 laden into ships directly from the producing district ; but 
 as the ships cannot come near to the shore in that part, 
 the following mode is adopted for effecting the shipment 
 of the wine : — The barrel is rolled out to the beach, and then 
 down the beach into the water, which may be a quarter or a 
 half an hour's distance. When it begins to float, the man who 
 has rolled it pushes it on to the ship, which frequently he can 
 reach only by swimming. When the cask arrives at the ship, 
 it is lifted on board by a crane, and the man returns to the 
 shore. 
 
 LANGUEDOC, OR THE MIDI OF FRANCE : TOPOGRAPHY 
 
 AND SOIL. 
 
 Languedoc, like RoussiUon, is the name of an ancient 
 province of France, and comprises the essential parts of the 
 departments of the Aude, of the Herault, and of a portion 
 of the Gard. The wines in this part are rich in colour, and 
 distinguished by much body and spirituosity. This spiritu- 
 osity is, however, exaggerated by report ; for the inspectors 
 who were sent by the Board of Customs to obtain specimens 
 of natural wines in this district, furnished none that contained 
 above 23'9 per cent, of proof spirit. In a great part of the 
 Languedoc, viticulture was already in a flourishing condition 
 at the time of the Romans, and this part still continues to 
 uphold its ancient reputation. The wines of Languedoc are the 
 objects of a vast commerce which is daily increasing, owing 
 to the circumstance that no country can compete with the 
 united advantages of climate, .soil, and situation, by means 
 of which great quantities of cheap and saleable wines are 
 produced. The surface occupied by vineyards in the three 
 departments mentioned, comprises 258,192 hectares, of 
 which there are in the department of the Aude 70,982 hec- 
 tares ; in that of the Herault 179,962 hectares, and in that 
 of the Gard 75,248 hectares. 
 
 The soil is essentially the same in the whole of this viti- 
 cultural district — chalky on the slopes, chalky and clayey 
 in the plains, and silico-calcareous, and mixed with more 
 or less rolled pebbles on the high plains or plateaux. Corre- 
 
XI.] TOPOGRAPHY AND SOIL. 391 
 
 spondingly, the same wines are raised throughout the whole 
 of these departments, and the wines which are obtained 
 from them are classified in the same manner throughout 
 the entire province of Languedoc. They go generally under 
 the name of Vins du midi, which, in the eyes of too many 
 ignorant persons, is equivalent to cheap, bad stuff. If they 
 knew the quantities of such wine exported to all parts of 
 France and mixed with the Burgundies, the Bordeaux, and 
 other varieties of French wine drunk in the country, or 
 exported, they would moderate their dislike ; and if they 
 had the enterprise to study the wines of those countries 
 themselves, they would see that just for the sake of their 
 quality and cheapness they deserve to be well known in all 
 parts of Europe, and to be at the command of every consumer. 
 The wines are divided into two categories, — wines for the 
 distillery, and wines of commerce. These latter are sub- 
 divided first into ordinary red and white wines of commerce ; 
 secondly, into the fine red wines; and, thirdly, into the 
 white dry wines, and the white liqueur and Muscat wines. 
 The sales are effected through the instrumentality of brokers 
 (termed courtiers). Formerly these agents used to taste the 
 q -^ wines, and played a great role in affairs, but now-a-days 
 their only office is to obtain samples and bring them to the 
 merchants. If a merchant likes a sample, he goes to the 
 repository where the wine is lying and identifies it with the 
 sample. Many transactions are also carried on between 
 the producers and the merchants directly. 
 
 VINES CULTIVATED. 
 These are the Carignane, the Terret-noir, the Grenache, 
 the Mourastel, the Aspiran, the CEillade, and its variety 
 the Sinsaou, the black Picpoule, the white Picpoule, and the 
 Clairette. These yield the wines of commerce. For the 
 distillery wines only two are cultivated, namely, the Aramon 
 and the Terret-bourret. These two vines cover the whole 
 of the plains of H^rault and of St. Guilhem upon the sea, 
 the plain of Lunel, of Orbe, and a part of that of the Aude, 
 to the very borders of that department. The Terret-noir 
 
392 VIA'ES CULTIVATED [chap. 
 
 is recognized by long branches and closely-set nodes. Its 
 leaves are equal in length and breadth, and show five lobes, 
 of which the two nearest to the leaf-stalk are very deeply 
 cut out. The bunch is pyramidal and winged, and has 
 loosely-hanging grapes which are of equal size, oval, blackish 
 red, transparent, and browned by the sun, so that they 
 appear almost bluish grey. They have an acidulous taste 
 and a thick skin. 
 
 The Terret-bourret has vigorous brown-coloured canes and 
 middle-sized leaves, which are wider than they are long. 
 The bunch is pyramidal, always has large wings, and bears 
 oval grapes, of a light rosy or violet colour, and covered 
 with brownish specks. The grapes have a flat taste, and 
 yield only the lowest wines used for the distilleries. 
 
 The Aramon is also called the rich plant. It has a vigorous 
 stalk, and the bays of its leaves are Httle marked. The bunch 
 is exuberant, long ; the grapes are round, equal, violet-black, 
 bloomy, of a flat taste, and provided with a thick skin. 
 
 The CEillade has cinnamon-coloured canes, large leaves, 
 and a magnificent pyramidal, winged bunch, with voluminous 
 grapes, which hang on very long green stalks. Their colour 
 is blackish blue. There are brown sun spots on them. Their| 
 taste is fresh, sugary, and very agreeable. They ripen early. ' 
 
 The Piran or Aspiran has leaves the five divisions of 
 which are deeply cut out. The bunch is middle-sized, and 
 bears black, greatly bloomed grapes. Their taste is fine and 
 sugary ; their skin thick. They mature early. 
 
 The white wines are mostly made of Picpoule and Clairette. 
 It is almost impossible to say what may be the proportion of 
 these vines in each vineyard. The vines which are planted 
 on the alluvial flat soils are called vines of the plain. The 
 less fructiferous soils of the alluvious district consist of rolled 
 pebbles mixed with earth containing oxyde of iron. The vines 
 growing there are called vines of the terrains degrh. They give 
 esteemed commercial wines. The wines of the slopes (called 
 garrigiies) yield wines fit for exportation. They are distilled 
 only in years of plentiful harvests. The distillery is the ad- 
 justment apparatus which keeps up the prices in abundant 
 
XI.] IN LANGUEDOC. 393 
 
 years. In years of dearth, on the contrary, even the wines 
 of the plain which ordinarily go to the distillery, are bought 
 up by merchants, mixed with good bodied wines of good 
 years and sold to the world. These proceedings are very 
 useful to the proprietors and merchants, but very unsatis- 
 factory to the consumer. 
 
 The cultivation of the vine is here not very carefully per- 
 formed. The vine is planted by means of blind canes, and 
 grows easily. The soil is worked by men only in the Gard. 
 On the gravel slopes, and in the gravelly soils, the plough is 
 used. Wherever this is the case the feet of the vines are 
 dressed with the hand. Manuring is vigorously kept up. In 
 the winter a hole is dug around each vine, the manure is put 
 in, and the earth covered over it. This extraordinary pro- 
 ceeding, which we have also seen practised in the Graves of 
 the Haut Brion district, indicates great vitality of the vine. 
 The vines in the Rhenish countries are believed not to bear 
 such treatment, and in the Champagne the vines are also 
 manured in such a way that the manure does not come in 
 contact with the foot of the vine itself. The vine is generally 
 cut in such a manner as to have four, five, or six canes which 
 are kept upon two eyes. 
 
 Where the soil is less fertile only three branches are grown. 
 Everywhere the vines are now cut with the secateur instead 
 of with the sickle-shaped garden knife, as formerly. The 
 vintage takes place in the middle of September, and extends 
 sometimes into October. In the rich alluvial plains 200 
 hectolitres of distillery wine are sometimes obtained upon one 
 hectare, but on the slopes and in the gravels the vines give 
 on an average not more than twenty-five to thirty hectolitres 
 per hectare. In certain good ordinary soils planted with fine 
 vines, in the mixture of which there is a certain proportion 
 of the Aramon and the Terret-bourret, fifty hectolitres per 
 hectare are sometimes obtained. 
 
 The grapes are trodden with the feet or mashed with 
 machines consisting of revolving cylinders. They are ordi- 
 narily powdered over with plaster of Paris, and then put into 
 the vats. The wine is put into foiidres or large barrels of a 
 
39+ 
 
 WINES OF A UDE AND CARD. [chap. 
 
 capacity varying from 7 to 700 hectolitres. These are filled 
 from below by means of pressure pumps. The wine is 
 racked in February or March, and a second time before the 
 next vintage when it is desired to keep the wine. 
 
 DISTINGUISHED GROWTHS OF THE DEPARTMENT OF 
 THE AUDE. 
 
 The vineyard of Limoux yields a white wine known under 
 the name of Blatiquette de Limoiix. There is also red wine 
 made here: 688 hectares are the extent of this vineyard. In 
 ordinary years 10,000 hectolitres of red wine and 3,000 
 hectolitres of blanquette are produced. The white wine 
 fetches double the price of the red. 
 
 REMARKABLE GROWTHS OF THE DEPARTMENT OF 
 THE GARD. 
 
 These are three in number, — Lddenon, Langlade, and St. 
 Gilles. These three growths are situated in the arrondisse- 
 ment of Nimes. The Langlade wine is, perhaps, the best 
 known. It is left only three days in the vat. It is light, of 
 rich colour, and fine, and is less alcoholic than the other wines. 
 It is grown on chalky soil, and under its name thousands 
 of barrels of wine grown on neighbouring plantations are sold. 
 St. Gilles has a vineyard of 5,000 hectares. Its wines have a 
 brilliant purple colour, are soft, have much body, strength, 
 and what the French call nerve and mordmit. They 
 are called vins fermes, because they can be used to give 
 colour and strength and body to wines which do not possess 
 those properties, and hence they are also called vins de remMe. 
 The St. Gilles wines bring, however, always a particular 
 taste — so-called "taste of territory"— into the wines with 
 which they are mixed. We believe this taste to be the 
 consequence of bad treatment, and that if the wines of that 
 vineyard were treated with the care bestowed upon the Rous- 
 sillons and the Narbonnes, they would show nearly as much 
 finesse as the wines of these districts. Considered in their 
 character of dyeing agents the wines of this district are divided 
 into six classes, and called accordingly the wines of one, three, 
 five, or six colours, according to whether they can, on being 
 
Xl.j REMARKABLE GROWTHS OF THE CARD. 395 
 
 mixed with one, three, five, or six parts of white wine, produce 
 a well-coloured ordinary table wine. At St. Gilles wine is sold 
 by the barral, which is a little more than 50 litres, and corre- 
 sponds almost to the Austrian Eimer. The hectolitre may 
 sell at 53 francs, and in good years may fall to 3 francs. 
 The average price is 10 francs the hectolitre. Most of this 
 wine goes to Paris and Holland. 
 
 Of the vinification in this district we ought to say a few 
 words in particular. The care taken to extract all the colour- 
 ing matter from the husks is very great. Before the vintage 
 is mashed, it is put into closed spaces, whereby a slight fermen- 
 tation begins in the unbroken berries, through which the skin 
 is predisposed to part with its colouring matter. When this 
 condition has been obtained the grapes are trodden with the 
 feet, but wooden shoes are mostly worn by the workpeople, 
 and the mash is put into the vats for fermentation. And now 
 comes the operation which, in our opinion, gives to all wine 
 in this district its peculiar taste. The vintagers mount to the 
 top of the vats and submerge the hat by means of long forks, 
 and this is repeated until the husks are deprived of the greater 
 part or all their colouring matter. 
 
 It is clear that, in a district where the temperature at the 
 time of fermentation is so high as in Languedoc, the upper 
 parts of the chapeau pass into putrefaction, and, on being 
 submerged, communicate their taste to the wine. 
 
 There are also obtained wines which, in ordinary years, 
 remain feeble, and therefore bear an addition of spirit : these 
 are sometimes treated as follows. The berries are put into a 
 caldron and heated, in order to macerate the hard skins and 
 allow the colouring matter in them to be extracted more easily. 
 The grapes so treated are afterwards put either into spirit or 
 into new wine. Similar means have long been adopted by 
 the manufacturers of wines in Oporto. The fermenting-vats 
 of the Languedoc are frequently, after twenty-four hours, 
 deprived of a portion of their wine, which then has attained 
 only a dark rose colour. This wine is finished in that state, 
 and sent off" to the Bourgogne to serve in what the French call 
 the " arrangement " of the Burgundy wines. A very careful 
 
396 REMARKABLE GRO WTHS OF THE HERA ULT. [cHAP , 
 
 method of making white wines prevails at St. Gilles. The 
 must, after having been drawn, is put into barrels which have 
 before been strongly sulphured ; that is to say, the oxygen 
 contained in their interior has been absorbed by the sulphur 
 matches which have been burned in them. The must is now 
 allowed to run into the cask, as much sulphur being burned 
 from time to time as will entirely absorb all oxygen. The 
 effect of this proceeding is, that the sulphurous acid contained 
 in the must absorbs all oxygen in the must ; and as the latter 
 is thus prevented from acting upon the albuminous matter, 
 fermentation does not take place. The must therefore 
 deposits all its impurities at the bottom of the cask. After 
 two or three days it may be drawn, and is then entirely clear. 
 Of course, very soon after fermentation begins, but it is very 
 much slower, and leaves a great deal more sugar in the fluid 
 than would otherwise be left. The wines of St. Gilles are 
 most commonly used for the artificial production of Port and 
 Sherry, of which not a little is thus made in Xeres itself 
 There is also produced at St. Gilles a wine called Tokay- 
 Princess. One Dr. Beaumes manufactures this wine from the 
 true Furmint or Tokay wine, after the manner of the Hun- 
 garian Tokay. It is sold in the place at 6 francs the bottle. 
 
 REMARKABLE GROWTHS OF THE HERAULT. 
 
 Among these is St. Georges D'Orques, St. Chrystol, and 
 St. Drezery. These three are red wines. The Picardans are 
 white wines, and the Frontignans and the Lunels are Muscat 
 wines. We particularly commend the wines of the arron- 
 dissement of Montpelier as being among the finest of the 
 department. We have tasted wines from good years four 
 or five years old, which recalled to us many of the finest 
 qualities of Port. The Pieardans wines are sweet or dry, 
 and mostly obtained from the Clairette. The grape of this 
 vine does not mature before the ist of October, and it is well 
 to let it hang for a fortnight longer before vintaging it. The 
 wines obtained from it have much similarity to Madeira, and 
 they contain from 13 to 155 per cent, of absolute alcohol. 
 They are frequently mixed with alcohol. If they are not dry 
 
XI.J 
 
 VINES OF THE HERAULT. 
 
 397 
 
 enough they are exposed to the sunshine in large barrels for 
 some months, the manufacturers thus imitating the practice of 
 
 Fig. 62 — Vine of the Herault, with all its wood, as seen in winter. 
 
 the Spaniards, who also mature their wines in the sunshine, 
 while in Madeira they lay them in hot chambers specially 
 constructed. 
 
 Fig 63 —Vines of the HSrault pruned and their " feet " uncovered. 
 
 The hectolitre of Picardans wine is ordinarily sold at from 
 12 to 16 francs. Sweet wines are here made by sulphuring 
 
 Fig. 64. -Vine of the Herault and Lot in full bearing. 
 
398 MUSCAT WINES. [chap. 
 
 the must and allowing subsequent fermentation, which, if the 
 wine is not very syrupy, is interrupted by the addition of 
 spirit. Most of these wines are now used for imitating 
 Spanish wines, such as Alicantes, Sherries, and Malagas. 
 
 MUSCAT WINES. 
 
 These wines are made from Muscat grapes — mostly 
 white, — more rarely black ones. The grapes are exposed to 
 the heat of the sun until they are half transformed into 
 raisins. They are then mashed and the juice is expressed. 
 The most notable of them are made in the vineyards of 
 Frontignan, on about 230 hectares, from the two varieties 
 called the white Muscat and the red Muscat. There are 
 annually produced about eight or nine hundred barrels, con- 
 taining from 220 to 225 litres each. Of red Muscat there are 
 only 20 hectolitres produced. This latter wine somewhat 
 resembles the Cape Constantia wine. The barrel of Muscat 
 wine varies in price from 120 to 200 francs. The bourgeois 
 who drink this wine pay m\ich more for it. The vineyard of 
 Lunel occupies only 50 hectares, and is still diminishing. 
 Here also the white and red Muscat are grown, and much 
 sweet wine is made, but at present the proprietors turn 
 towards the making of other wines. 
 
 The Lunel Muscat was formerly celebrated in many parts 
 of the Continent, but since the discovery of the resemblance 
 to Muscat of the flavour of tincture of elder flower a 
 drink can be made by its aid from alcohol, sugar, and a little 
 tartaric acid, which in many cases is superior in flavour, and 
 certainly in purity, to true Muscat of Lunel. In consequence 
 of this the Muscat has lost its standing. There are yet Muscat 
 wines of Maraussan and Espagnac. Their production and 
 nature are similar to those of the previous ones. 
 
 MANUFACTURE OF TROIS-SIX AND EAU-DE-VIE AT 
 MONTPELIER. 
 
 In the department of the H^rault two qualities of trois-six 
 are made — one of wine and another of murk. The former 
 ones are called " of good taste" {de bon go-dt) when the wine 
 from which they have been made was neither spoiled nor 
 
XI.] MANUFACTURE OF TROIS-SIX. 399 
 
 sour. The second sort are always called trois-six of murk, 
 and are in general from 25 to 50 per cent, less valuable 
 than the others. The trois-six of good taste occupy the 
 most important position, both as regards quality and 
 quantity. They are obtained by means of a still which 
 from its inventor is called De Rosne's. This apparatus is 
 made at Meze, Lunel, Montpelier, and B^ziers ; it costs 
 from 2,000 to 4,000 francs, and yields in twenty-four hours 
 of distillation from two to four pieces of alcohol of 86 per 
 cent, strength, each piece being six hectolitres. Two men, 
 the distiller and an assistant, are sufficient to conduct the 
 working of an apparatus. The distiller regulates the fire, the 
 level of the wine in the columns of condensation and of 
 distillation, and also the evacuation of the residues. The 
 assistant feeds the reservoirs containing the wine, rolls the 
 pieces to the pump, and occupies himself with the other ac- 
 cessory detail. When the apparatus is kept in action day 
 and night, two distillers and two assistants become necessary 
 for the twenty-four hours. A distiller receives three francs a 
 day, — his assistant, two francs. The production of three- 
 six is very regular in this kind of apparatus, and depends, of 
 course, upon the strength of the wine employed. The wines 
 of the plain contain from 7 to 1 1 volumes per cent, of three- 
 six of 84°. It is therefore clear that an apparatus which 
 can produce four pieces per day, and consume 336 hectolitres 
 of feeble wine of the plain, containing 7 per cent., will, when 
 consuming wines containing more alcohol, say 14 per cent, 
 only consume half the quantity; that is, 168 hectolitres of 
 wine. The average strength of the wines distilled is 1 1 and 
 12 per cent, of three-six when the year is good, so that 
 one can assume that a manufactory which produces four 
 pieces of three-six in twenty-four hours, consumes from 
 230 to 240 hectolitres per day. Such a manufactory, there- 
 fore, discharges every day more than 200 hectolitres of 
 residue. These residues have a repulsive odour, and being 
 let into the rivers and watercourses, or canals, infect the air 
 more than sewage. Hitherto no use has been made of them 
 either on account of their tartaric acid or their potash. 
 
4O0 MANUFACTURE OF TROIS-SIX [chap. 
 
 The price of the wine used for distilling is dependent upon 
 the quantity of alcohol which it contains. It is generally- 
 ascertained by means of small assay stills, and the specific 
 gravity of the distillate is measured by a centesimal areometer. 
 Proprietor and manufacturer each determine the quantity of 
 alcohol contained in the wine to be sold, and afterwards they 
 discuss the price to be paid. A manufactory which is in good 
 condition and well constructed, can make a hundred pieces 
 without being cleaned ; but it is considered well to clean the 
 apparatus at the slightest sign of impurity, for when it be- 
 comes dirty, it produces much less spirit in the same time 
 while burning the same amount of fuel. Moreover, in the 
 dirt there is lost much wine or alcohol. A loss of alcohol is 
 experienced also when the apparatus is not well closed. The 
 strength of the spirit which has been distilled is always 
 ascertained with the aid of the alcoholometer of Bories. 
 This is a very ancient instrument, and manufacturers and 
 producers of the Languedoc are as reluctant to give it up 
 as the Germans are with regard to that of Tralles, or the 
 English with regard to that of Sikes. The piece of three- 
 six, accompanied by a warranty of its quality, is taken to 
 the market. The inspector of the market verifies the 
 analysis, and if correct admits, if incorrect, returns the piece. 
 The inspector states the limpidity, which must be perfect; 
 he observes the colour, of which there must not be any ; 
 the taste, which must be pure and free. The accepted 
 piece remains in the hands of him to whom it is sent. The 
 piece which was not in perfect condition is kept until a re- 
 duction in the price may have caused it to be accepted. If 
 the piece were of very bad quality it would be judged, and 
 pronounced mauvais goAt, and in that case would be paid for 
 only as three-six of murk. There are in the department 
 of the Herault four markets for eau-de-vie and alcohol. They 
 are in the order of their importance, B^ziers (on Friday), 
 P^zenas (on Saturday), Cette (on Wednesday), and Lunel (on 
 Monday). If there are no stipulations made to the contrary, 
 the manufacturers of three-six are bound to deliver all 
 produce to one or other of these markets. All three- 
 
XL] AND EAU-DE-VIE AT MONTPELIER. 401 
 
 six is paid for in cash. One day in every week is assigned 
 in each of the markets for the assembly of the merchants, 
 manufacturers, and brokers. The three-six is received by 
 the inspector every day except Sunday, and each market has 
 its special inspector. The salary of the inspector consists 
 in an impost of half-a-franc upon each piece. 
 
 The apparatus of De Rosne which we have mentioned can 
 be used to make alcohol called Trois-cinq = 3/5, and another 
 kind called Proof of Holland. The strength of the 3/5 is 78° 
 centesimal ; that of the Proof of Holland is 58.^ This 
 being by volume is about equal to the English proof spirit. 
 These liquids are put in barrels, transported, and delivered 
 just in the same manner as the 3/6, and their current price 
 depends upon that of the 3/6. The 3/5 or the 3/6 are 
 employed to strengthen wines — as the French say, viner les 
 vins — ^which have not got enough body and require to be 
 exported. The Holland Proof serves for the same purpose. 
 They are also used for making the better class of eau-de-vie 
 of Montpelier. The first qualities are made with white 
 
 1 Rendu, "Vins duLanguedoc," i. 71, gives Proof of Holland as 52 vol. per cent. 
 Payen, "Chimie Industrielle," 3rd edition, p. 712, gives Proof of Holland at 587 
 and Proof of London at 58 vol. per cent. British (or Sikes's) proof spirit at I5°5 
 contains 57'o6 vol. per cent., or 49'24 weight per cent, of absolute alcohol. The 
 several designations of spirits of various strengths used in the Languedoc and other 
 parts of France are derived as follows : — Common eau-de-vie is accepted as the 
 standard, and supposed to show 19° Cartier at I2°5 temperature. It then contains 
 a little less than 50 vol. per cent, of absolute alcohol. Trois-six is a spirit, of 
 which three volumes added to three volumes of water were supposed to give 
 six volumes of eau-de-vie of 19° Cartier. It is the common alcohol of commerce, 
 marks 33° on the scale of Cartier, and contains, consequently, 84^4 vol. per 
 cent, of absolute alcohol. Trois-cinq is a spirit, of which three volumes added 
 to two volumes of water were supposed to give five volumes of eau-de-vie at 19° 
 Cartier, while trois-sept is an alcohol of which three volumes added to four 
 volumes of water were supposed to give seven volumes of standard eau-de-vie. It 
 is evident that by the introduction of the mathematical methods of ascertaining the 
 strength of spirits these names have lost their meaning, the very standard of eau-de- 
 vie, with 50 vol. per cent, of alcohol, excluding the possibility of the existence of an 
 alcohol called trois-sept. But whenever these names are used without the defini- 
 tion of the exact strength in volume per cent., or degrees Cartier, we may assume 
 that by 3/7 is meant a spirit of 94 per cent. vol. , by 3/6 a spirit of about 84 per 
 cent, vol., by 3/5 a spirit of about 78 per cent, vol., by the several proof eaux-dc- 
 vie the strengths above given, by eau-de-vie double de Cognac a spirit of 52 '5 per 
 cent, vol., by eau-de-vie as commonly sold in retail a spirit of 49 'i per cent, vol., 
 and by common feeble eau-de-vie a spirit of 45 '5 per cent. vol. 
 
 D D 
 
402 MANUFACTURE OF TROIS-SIX [chap. 
 
 wines just fermented, which have not been fermented with the 
 stalk. Generally the good quality of Terret Bourret is used 
 for making this wine. Sometimes manufacturers who desire 
 to make very good eau-de-vie, take wine made from Picpoule. 
 The new red wines, provided they have not been allowed to 
 ferment in the vat with the stalk, give also excellent eau-de- 
 vie of great softness. The eau-de-vie of Montpelier is made 
 with the same apparatus as' that which produces the 3/6, but 
 it is arranged a little differently, so as to give a lesser 
 strength. The eau-de-vie of Montpelier, however, is almost 
 a thing of the past. Commerce and manufacture have given 
 it up, and devoted themselves almost exclusively to the 
 strongest kind of alcohol that can be produced by mere 
 distillation. The average production of trois-six is 
 enormous. While no more than 2,000 pieces of eau-de-vie 
 are annually produced — 6,000 hectolitres of 52" — the 
 manufacture of 3/6 rises to 60,000 pieces, equal to 
 360,000 hectolitres of eau-de-vie. The arrondissement of 
 B^ziers yields regularly two-thirds of this quantity, and 
 sometimes three-fourths. 60,000 hectares of vineyards of 
 the H^rault produce nothing but wine to be used for 
 distilling. The average production of 3/6 in the four 
 departments — the Eastern Pyrenees, the H^rault, the Gard, 
 and the Aude — has been 500,000 hectolitres. The 3/6 of 
 wine are made by manufacturers who make a distinct 
 occupation of it, or by proprietors who have a still attached 
 to their farm arrangements. These farm distillers are more 
 numerous in the circle of Beziers than in that of Montpelier. 
 The larger quantity of the wines is distilled by the profes- 
 sional manufacturers. They have their manufactories in the 
 villages, in the very centre of the great production, and they 
 concentrate in their hands all the disposable wine after each 
 vintage. The manufacturing time begins with the first days 
 of October, and continues longer or shorter, according to the 
 abundance of the harvest — sometimes for three months, 
 sometimes for six. The first trois-six, which are distilled 
 from the new wines, are always the best. The 3/6 of murk 
 is obtained by subjecting the murk as it comes from the 
 
XI.] AND EAU-DE-VIE AT MONTPELIER. 403 
 
 press — of course after fermentation — to the heat of water or 
 steam. For this purpose there are attached to the apparatus 
 De Rosne two large cylindrical copper vessels, into which the 
 murk is put. Into these a current of steam is now directed, 
 which carries the spirit away. One vessel is charged while the 
 other is working, and vice versd, so that the distillation continues 
 without interruption. With an apparatus of ■ the power of 
 four pieces, one piece of 3/6 of murk can be made in twenty- 
 four hours. The richness of the murk in alcohol varies with 
 the degree of desiccation and the strength of the wine which 
 it has produced. There is no means at present for de- 
 termining the amount of alcohol in murk. The manufac- 
 turers buy the murk at a fixed price, so that they are 
 assured of having a sufficient quantity "for keeping their 
 machine going when it is once arranged. When the trois- 
 six of good taste are rare or very dear, the murk is 
 washed methodically with water. The water then takes up 
 the wine contained in it, and this more or less alcoholic 
 water is now distilled. This yields a spirit of good taste, 
 while if the murk itself were distilled it would have the 
 peculiar bad taste of murk spirit. This bad taste of the 
 murk is particularly developed when it has been kept for 
 some time, and is, of course, a product of the putrefaction 
 of its albuminous ingredients. It is calculated that on an 
 average 130 muits of murk are necessary to make a piece of 
 600 litres of 3/6. The muit of murk weighs on an average 
 100 kilogrammes. 13,000 kilogrammes of murk therefore 
 yield 600 litres of spirit. In the canton of Lunel many 
 proprietors fatten sheep by means of the murk of grapes, 
 from which in the morning they distil, by means of special 
 apparatus, the alcohol previous to feeding. The animals 
 thus get the murk cooked and warm. The alcohol is pro- 
 duced gradually, and is taken to the market when the barrel 
 is filled. The murk which has been used by the manufac- 
 turers who have no live-stock is used as manure. 
 
 The eau-de-vie, the trois-six,' and other alcohols of the 
 H^rault, are mostly sold in France, but a great proportion 
 is exported to foreign countries. 
 
 P D ^ 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 WINES OF THE EAST OF FRAXCE. 
 
 Wines of THE-Rhonk Valley ; — Topographical survey. — C6te-du-Rh6ne. — 
 Classification 'of its wines. — Chateau-neuf-du-Pape. ^Vineyard of St. Peray 
 (Ard^che). — Vineyard of the Ermitage. — Vineyards of Crozes, Larnage, and 
 Mercurol. — Vineyards of La Roliere and Die. — Viijeyard of Condrieu (Depart- 
 ment of the Rhone).— Vineyard of Cote-Rotie (Department of the Rhone). 
 Wines of the Sa6ne Valley : — General survey of the district. — The 
 Beaujolais. — Topography. — Dominating vines and their cultivation. — Vintage. 
 — General classification of the vines. — Special classification of the wines of 
 the Beaujolais by traders of IVIacon. — The Maconnais. — ^General division of 
 district and soil. — Predominating vines. — Mode of cultivation. — Vintage and 
 treatment of red wine. — Cultivation of the white vine. — Maturing and character 
 of white wine. ^Classification of Maconnais wines by the merchants of M^con. 
 — Cote of Chalon. — Topography and vines. — Wine. — Remarks on Giboudot. 
 — Quantity. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL SURVEY. 
 
 The greater and most reputed part of these wines is pro- 
 duced on the right bank of the Rh6ne, in the communes of 
 Laudun, Chusclan, Tavel, Roquemaure, which belong to the 
 department of the Gard ; in the district which is represented 
 by the name of St. Peray, department of the Ardeche ; and 
 at Condrieu and Cote-rotie, department of the Rhone. A 
 much smaller quantity of wine is grown on the left bank of 
 the Rhdne, but this includes the products of Chateau- neuf-du- 
 Pape, department Vaucluse, and of L'Ermitage, department of 
 the Drome. The vineyards of Croyes, Larnage, and Mercurol, 
 in the same department, produce wine which, in quality, 
 follows immediately after El-mitage. Of these wines those 
 grown in the Gard have the general character of the wines 
 of the Midi, as described in the chapter on Languedoc. The 
 
CHAP. XII.] cStE DU Rh6nE. 405 
 
 white St. Peray has a character of its own, particularly in the 
 effervescent state. The wines of the upper part of the Rh6ne, 
 C6te-r6tie, resemble those of the Beaujolais and the C6te- 
 d'Or. The wines of L'Ermitage are distinguished by peculiar 
 qualities, and a pleasing bouquet, coupled with great finesse ; 
 and those of Chateau -neuf-du-Pape owe their trade-value and 
 export to Burgundy to their spirituosity and colour. 
 
 The greater, particularly the lower, part of the wine- 
 growing region of the Rh6ne valley, has a calcareous soil, 
 which, on the left bank, is mixed with clay and pebbles. The 
 upper parts of the borders of the Rhone are formed of 
 granite, which, in the less inclined situations, is mixed with 
 alluvium. 
 
 cdxE DU rh6ne. 
 
 The vineyards in the Gard are properly so called. They 
 are about 30 English miles long, by six wide ; the cultivation 
 of the vine is the same as at St. Gilles. Many of the wines 
 are, however, either not vatted at all, or only for a short time, 
 so that they are but moderately coloured. The black 
 grapes grown there are the Terret, Picpoule, Piran, Caman- 
 hze, and Grenache, or Alicante. The latter is the basis of the 
 good qualities of the wines of these regions. In some 
 localities the Uni and the Bourboulenque are grown on a 
 small scale with the others. Of the white grapes the 
 Clairette and Calitor form about a fifth part; the others 
 are Uni blanc, Picardan, and several unimportant varieties. 
 The wines of this region are classified in the order of their 
 merit, as follows : — 
 
 First Class. Red wines, not vatted. Tavel. — Very dry, 
 very light-coloured wine ; improves much by age. Annual 
 produce 3,000 pieces of 280 litres measure, and about 50 
 francs value each. 
 
 Lirac. — Very dry wine, more firm than Tavel, of a lively 
 rose-colour. Annual produce 1,000 pieces of 50 francs value 
 each. 
 
 Chusclan. — Very agreeable liqueur wine. Produce 2,000 
 pieces per annum, value 50 francs each. 
 
4o5 ChAtEAU-NEUF-DU-PAPE. [CHAP. 
 
 Second Class. Red wines, not vatted. Orsan. — A tender 
 wine, of deep colour. Annual produce i,SOO pieces, of the 
 value of 45 francs each. 
 
 St.-Geniks-de-Comolas. — This wine has analogy with Chus- 
 clan. Produce 3,000 pieces per annum, of 45 francs average 
 value. 
 
 Third Class. Saint-Laurent-des-Arbres. — Wine of half a 
 colour, so called, 3,000 pieces, 45 francs. 
 
 Roquemaure. — Its better qualities are of good quality, and 
 valued as dinner-wines. 5,000 pieces, 45 francs. 
 
 White Wine. Laudun. — White agreeable wine. 1,000 
 pieces, 50 francs. 700 pieces are dry wine, while 300 pieces 
 are converted into sweet wine. 
 
 chAteau-neuf-du-pape. 
 
 This vineyard, of about 600 hectares, is situated on the 
 left bank of the Rhdne, a few kilometres from Orange. The 
 properties are mostly inclined towards the South ; some, 
 however, are in the plain, and have contributed most to 
 destroy the reputation of this vineyard. The black grapes 
 cultivated here are the Grenache, Picpoule, Tinto, and Terret 
 noir ; of white varieties, the Clairette, Uni, and Muscat. 
 The cultivators say that the Grenache gives alcohol and 
 finesse, the Picpoule generosity, the Tinto colour, and the 
 Terret quantity. The vines are never manured, but here and 
 there they get a little earth now and then. The vines are 
 trained with from three to five branches, of which each 
 carries an element. The latter has only two or three eyes. 
 The vines begin to bear in from three to five years after 
 planting, and continue to bear for twenty years. The best 
 vines, the Grenaches, are the latest to bear, and the earliest to 
 decay. The vintage takes place in the latter part of October. 
 The average harvest amounts to 20 hectolitres per hectare; 
 but well-kept grenachikres (as vineyards planted purely with 
 grenache are called), in a good soil, produce up to 30 hectolitres 
 per hectare. As a general rule the stalks are taken eff the 
 grapes already in the vineyards, and left there. The grapes 
 are crushed in mills, and dropped into the vats, where they 
 
XII.] CHATEAU-NEUF-DU-PAPE. 407 
 
 remain fermenting and macerating for from fifteen to eighteen 
 days, and sometimes longer. At last the wine is drawn into 
 barrels of 270 litres each ; these are not bunged, but covered 
 with a piece of tile until the new year, when the bungs are 
 put in. The wine is sold at the vat, at prices varying be- 
 tween 25 and 50 francs, the piece of 270 litres. It does 
 not keep in barrel longer than three years, after which, if 
 its colour is to be preserved at all, it must be bottled. 
 The most remarkable vineyards of this district are the 
 following : — 
 
 Vineyard of La Nerthe. — This vineyard gained its repu- 
 tation through the owner, the Marquis of Villefranche, who 
 frequently treated his guests at Paris to old fine Nerthe. The 
 product is not now husbanded to the same advantage, and 
 has lost in value, the high age of many of the vines not- 
 withstanding. The varieties are Picpoule, Clairette, Terret 
 noir, and Picardan. New plantations are made in Grenache 
 to the extent of two-thirds. Value 240 francs the piece, of 
 270 litres, loco. 
 
 The Cru de Condorcet is situated below the Nerthe, and 
 measures 20 hectares; 40 francs per hectolitre; price increasing, 
 on account of planting of Ermitage and Sirrah vines. 
 
 Vineyard of Fortia occupies a place similar to that of the 
 Nerthe. The wine is stronger, but also coarser than that of 
 the Nerthe. Under the old proprietor, the Marquis de Fortia 
 d'Urban, the average product was 30 pieces per year, but 
 it has risen to 100 now. 
 
 The Vineyard of Vaiidieu produces light-coloured and less 
 alcoholic wines. Several parts of it are planted exclusively 
 with white vines, such as Clairette, Uni, Pascal blanc, Bour- 
 boulenque, Muscat. From these a dry wine is made, in the 
 ordinary manner ; also a sweet wine by the addition of spirit 
 to the must. The dry wine has some similarity with Spanish 
 wine. Price not below 80 francs per hectolitre. 
 
 In the commune of Chiteau-neuf-du-Pape, the land is 
 extremely subdivided, every owner is a vinegrower, and his 
 harvest 12 to 35 pieces a year. The wines are mostly bought 
 after the harvest by the commission agents of Roquemaure. 
 
4o8 VINEYARD OF SAINT PERAY. [chap. 
 
 These now mix and otherwise belabour them, and send the 
 greater quantity of them into Burgundy, to be used there as 
 " the doctors " to feeble, acid, and pale wines of bad years. 
 Bordeaux also receives a quantity of these wines for the same 
 purpose. In consequence the wines of Ch^teau-neuf-du-Pape 
 do not occur in trade in their original condition at all ; when 
 bought for mixing, they are already in a mixed state. The 
 proprietors work up to the trade demand, and plant vines so 
 as to produce an alcoholic black wine. They also want to 
 produce greater quantity and plant vines in the plains. By 
 these proceedings the grounds for the ancient reputation of 
 this vineyard are rapidly disappearing. 
 
 The department of Vaucluse has yet several small vine- 
 yards of quality, of which that of Chiteau-vieux cultivates 
 peculiar vines, the Mollard, the Mollardon or petit Mollard, 
 the plant du Four, and the Espagnis or Pis de Ch^vre. This 
 latter is distinguished by its berries, which are like olives ; 
 they are always sweet, even when not quite ripe. 
 
 (VINEYARD OF SAINT PlilRAY ARDECHE). 
 
 In ascending the Rh6ne, the next vineyard which the 
 traveller meets with is that of St. Peray, situated ■ on the 
 right bank of the river, in the department of Ardeche. 
 It is 172 hectares in extent, all situated upon slope-s, 
 facing the east. The soil is gravelly clay with iron; the 
 wines produced are all white. The dominant vine is the 
 Grosse Roiissette (Roussanne of the Ermitagej ; it is mixed 
 with a small proportion of the petite Roussette, but with 
 no other vine. Plantation and cultivation of the vine offer 
 no peculiarities. The dry wine is made in the ordinary 
 manner, and the effervescent St. P6ray is produced in the 
 same manner as effervescent Champagne. Still St. Peray is put 
 into bottles only in the third or fourth year. The most cele- 
 brated growths of St. Peray are Coteau-Gaillard, Solignacs, 
 Thioulet, and Hongrie ; after these range Savoie-les-Sapettes 
 and Malayon. The best wine has a value of 75 francs the 
 hectolitre, the second quality 50 francs. Grand mousseux 
 of the best years is sold at from 2 francs to 2 frs. 50 c. the 
 
XII. j VINEYARD OF THE ERMITAGE. 409 
 
 bottle retail; while still wine, five or six years old, has the 
 same value. The mousseux is very heady, and neither so 
 fine nor so mild as Champagne. 
 
 In the same department of the Ardeche there is the vine- 
 yard of St. Jean, which produces white wines equal to third 
 class St. P6ray. Red wines are grown at Cornas and St. Joseph. 
 The vines are Picpoule and Sirrah. Quantity per annum 
 2,000 pieces of two hectolitres each, selling at 80 to 120 frs. 
 They resemble in body the third-class Ermitage, but have no 
 bouquet whatever. 
 
 VINEYARD OF THE ERMITAGE. 
 
 The good growths of the Ard^ches end at Tournon, and 
 opposite this place, on the Left border of the Rhone, begin 
 the vineyards of the Ermitage. They are situated in the 
 commune of Tain, 28 kilometres from Valence, department 
 of Drome, have a surface of 190 hectares, and are distributed 
 over two slopes. One of these is on granitic soil, the other 
 on alluvial. They are exposed to the south-west, in such 
 a manner that the sun strikes them from his rising to his 
 setting. Their highest point is 160 metres above the level 
 of the Rhone. The name is derived from a place of retire- 
 ment, which one Gaspard de Sterimberg, a courtier of Queen 
 Blanche of Castile, built thereabouts for his old days in the 
 year 1225. The vineyards are naturally of three kinds, ac- 
 cording to the soil : granitic, constituting the so-called " Mas 
 des Bessas ; '' alluvial, forming the " Mas du Meal ; " and 
 alluvial clayey, forming the "Mas de Greffieux." The high 
 quality of the Ermitage wines depends upon the combination 
 of these three vineyards, the produce of which is always sold 
 mixed ; and a proprietor, in order to have his produce classified 
 "premier cru," must hold property in the three vineyards. 
 The wines of Bessas are not so fine and well-flavoured as 
 those of Mdal and Grefiieux, but they have a very deep 
 colour. What is called Hermitage, and has any quality, is 
 always a mixture of the three "Mas." The wines grown 
 in this district are the " grosse Sirrah " and " petite Sirrah " 
 
4IO VINEYARD OF THE ERMITAGE. [cHAP. 
 
 for red wine ; and the " Roussanne " and " Marsanne " for 
 white : the " grosse Sirrah " is remarkable for its fertility, but 
 produces a common wine ; it is therefore gradually driven 
 out of the good vineyards, and is grown in the plain. 
 Nineteen out of twenty parts of the hill district cultivate 
 the " petite Sirrah ; " the rest is planted with white vines. 
 The " petite Sirrah " has canes of a dark cinnamon colour, 
 with long internodes. The leaves are great, thin, very 
 variable, ordinarily divided in five lobes, light green, and 
 downy on their lower surface. The bunch is fine, elongated, 
 winged, bearing slightly oval grapes, which are unequal, 
 closely packed together, of a blackish violet colour, much 
 browned on the surface, juicy, very sweet, and have a thin 
 husk. They ripen early. The grapes of the Roussanne are 
 white, small, round, unequal, and very much browned under 
 a thick bloom ; the bunch of the Marsanne is not so long 
 as that of the Roussanne ; its berries are unequal and very 
 closely set. The vines are trained upon two elements each ; 
 the elements do not get more than three eyes, and are kept 
 as near to the ground as possible. In consequence of this, 
 many of the bunches of grapes lie partially on the ground 
 when nearly ripe, and become covered with earth. This 
 entails a special operation in August, called "unearthing 
 the grapes." The vintage ordinarily takes place in the 
 second half of September. But in early years the villagers 
 hasten to have the harvest in before the equinox, as heavy 
 rains are not rarely experienced at that time. A hectare 
 brings about 24 hectolitres of wine. Its purchase value is 
 60,000 francs in the first growths, 48,000 in the second, and 
 36,000 in situations of the third order. The cultivation costs 
 about 900 francs per annum. Nine-tenths of the wines are 
 red, the rest is white wine, among which there is some straw 
 wine. To make one barrique of 210 litres of this latter requires 
 760 kilogrammes of grapes, which without drying would 
 have yielded three barriques of wine. The black grapes 
 are unstalked, crushed or trodden, and fermented in vats. 
 The contents of the vats are then stirred twice a day for 
 a week, and ultimately once a day. This goes on for about 
 
xu.] VINEYARDS OF LA ROLIERE AND DIE. ^\l 
 
 a month, and what is curious, the longer the better are the 
 crus ; in one of the best vineyards the " cuvage " lasts as long 
 as forty days. This seems required by the large amount 
 of sugar contained in the must, of which the last portions 
 are only slowly transformed in the strongly alcoholic 
 liquid. The fermented wine is put into barrels and racked 
 once a year. It is ripe for bottling after four years. White 
 wine is made here as elsewhere, and is ready for bottling after 
 five years. It ripens after one year, and keeps indefinitely. 
 The best red Ermitage is sold at about 400 francs the barrique 
 of 210 litres. Straw wine, which requires seven years for 
 maturing, is sold at 7 to 8 francs the bottle. It is a mere 
 curiosity. Red Ermitage goes to Bordeaux, to be mixed with 
 the colder growths of the Gironde ; its first qualities are never 
 sold in trade as such, just because of the value which they 
 possess for adulterating Bordeaux wines. Anything sold 
 in trade as Ermitage is always second class, if it is 
 Ermitage at all. When genuine it is distinguished by great 
 richness, a lively purple colour, and a special bouquet, and 
 becomes by these united qualities the best wine of the south 
 of France. 
 
 VINEYARDS OF CROZES, LARNAGE, AND MERCUROL. 
 
 Their products take the rank next to Ermitage. Crozes 
 has 120 hectares, and its red wines fetch from 40 to 50 
 francs per hectolitre; its best qualities in good years, 100 
 to 1 50 francs. Mercurol produces red wine, value 30 francs 
 per hectolitre, on 170 hectares ; vines and vinification as 
 in the Ermitage. The small vineyard of Rochegyde is near 
 to the foregoing. 
 
 VINEYARDS OF LA ROLIl&RE AND DIE. 
 
 La Roli^re grows white wine on 7 hectares planted with 
 grosse and petite Sirrah, Roussanne and Marsanne. The 
 wine is a sweet, syrupy drink, of which the fermentation 
 is suppressed by frequent sulphuring and by filtration and 
 
412 VINEYARD OF CONDRIEU. [chap. 
 
 racking of the must repeated every five days. In the 
 neighbourhood of Die a white mousseux, termed " Clairette 
 de Die," is made from the grapes of a peculiar vine termed 
 the " Blanquette." The grapes are unstalked, crushed, and 
 pressed ; the juice is put into barrels and racked after twenty- 
 four hours. It is then racked every two or three days during 
 about two months, and when it has ceased to ferment is 
 fined. The clarified wine is put into bottles in the following 
 March, and then becomes effervescent. But it loses this 
 quality after two years ; and if it is desired to keep it per- 
 manently effervescent, it must be treated like Champagne. 
 The latter process is but rarely adopted. The " Clairette 
 de Die " is sold at one franc the bottle in the Lyonnais, 
 Dauphine, and Provence. 
 
 VINEYARD OF CONDRIEU {Dcpartimnt of the Rltone). 
 
 Under the name of white wines of Condrieu are comprised 
 the wines grown in that locality and also those of St. Michel in 
 the department of the Loire. They are all produced on the 
 same slopes, and from the same vines, the "Vionnier,"' and 
 the " Terine noire." Each vine is trained with one element, 
 which bears a fruit cane with from ten to twelve eyes, 
 and a shorter wood cane. Principal growths at Condrieu: 
 Lot and Ch^ry, surface 35 hectares, of which 22 are first, 
 13 second class. Principal growths at St. Michel: Chateau 
 Grille, surface 45 hectares, of which 25 are first, 20 second 
 class. The wine of these districts is a kind of imperfect 
 mousseux. The grapes are pressed, the juice is put into 
 barrels, and is then racked every twenty-four hours during 
 a week to get rid of yeast particles. In winter it is fined, 
 and in March it is bottled. It now begins to ferment, and 
 the bottles are therefore allowed to stand upright as beer 
 bottles are with us, to admit of the escape of the excess 
 of carbonic acid. If the bottles were laid horizontally, many 
 would break. The wine is thus an imperfect Champagne, 
 as it is not disgorged and consequently not clear, or at all 
 events each bottle contains a turbid part like a bottle of ale. 
 
^"•] VINEYARD OF. c6tE-R6tIE. 413 
 
 It can be drunk six months after having been made. The 
 hectolitre of non-manufactured dry white wine is sold at 
 40 francs. 
 
 VINEYARD OF c6te-r6tie {Department of the Rhdne). 
 
 This vineyard is situated in the commune of Ampuis, a few 
 kilometres distant from Condrieu, and has a surface of 38 
 hectares, of which 26 are first, 12 second class. The slopes are 
 inclined towards the south-west. The vineyard is divided into 
 five parts by the two principal growths, C6te-Brune and C6te- 
 Blonde. In the C6te-Brune the Terine noire is more preva- 
 
 FlG. 65. — Gfoup of vines as trained on the CGte-R6tie. On the right a vine with all its 
 autumn wood : on the left two vines pruned so as to have a fruit-branch, bent in a 
 long arc downwards and tied to a stake, and a short wood-branch. 
 
 lent, while the Cote-Blonde has more Vionniers. The first 
 growths of the C6te-R6tie are the Brune, the Blonde, Turque, 
 Grande- Vigne, Grosse-Roche, Grande-Plant^e, Claperanne, and 
 Poyette. The second growths are the Moutonnes, Journarys, 
 Cret, L'Enceman, Mollard, and the haut du c6teau de 
 Fonjean. The wines here made are all red. The grapes are 
 rudely thrown into vats, and neither unstalked nor much 
 crushed ; the vats are covered with pierced lids, and left for 
 eight days, until fermentation is completed. The made wine 
 
414 WINES OF THE SAONE VALLEY. [chap. 
 
 is racked twice a year, and ullage filled up in March and 
 September. At six years it is ripe for bottling, and becomes 
 fit for drinking after the first or second year in bottle. The 
 piece of Ampuis, measuring 240 litres, is sold at about 200 
 francs. The wine is fiery and heady, but has great finesse 
 and much bouquet. When made from the Vionnier mainly, it 
 is lighter and more delicate, and does not lose its colour by 
 age, but when made principally from the Terine the wine is 
 more harsh and of darker colour ; in bottle it forms a strong 
 crust, and loses its purple colour, and becomes of the light 
 red colour of onion peel. The wines of the C6te-R6tie are 
 bought by the traders of Tain, Tournon, Saint-P^ray, and 
 Valence, and are sold in France and other countries. In 
 ancient times they, and other produce of the Rh6ne valley, 
 were exported to Rome. 
 
 GENERAL SURVEY OF THE BEAUJOLAIS, mAcONNAIS, AND 
 THE CHALON c6tE. 
 
 These districts are situated in the higher parts of the 
 valleys of the tributaries of the Rhone, particularly the 
 Sa6ne. Their produce is very different from that of the 
 Bourgogne, which is at the west of them, and less so from 
 the wines which grow on the borders of the Rhone to the 
 south. It is much to be regretted that there is no viticultural 
 map of those districts to be had, even in the centres of their 
 trade. In both districts the viticultural parts are agglome- 
 rated, partly on slopes running towards the Saone, partly on 
 rich flat land, which everywhere else would be cultivated for 
 wheat. This agglomeration is evident to the traveller through 
 either district, for whether he travels by rail or carriage, he 
 enters suddenly upon a viticultural district, continues in it, 
 perceiving right and left nothing but vines, and after having 
 travelled some miles he suddenly leaves it, whereupon all viti- 
 culture ceases, and nothing but ordinary agriculture becomes 
 visible. In France the Beaujolais wines are more commonly 
 sold under the name of MAconnais ; but in England the very 
 reverse obtains, and "Beaujolais" is a more charming name 
 to the merchant and consumer than "Maconnais." In our 
 
XII.] DOMINATING VINES. 41^ 
 
 classification of these wines we shall show that there are 
 amongst them some, but very few, qualities of the first rank. 
 Such are the Moulin-^-vent and the Chenas. The rest are 
 good ordinaries. 
 
 THE BEAUJOLAIS. 
 The Beaujolais was formerly a county, and a part of the 
 government of Lyons. It is now an arrondissement, of which 
 Villefranche is the principal place. It extends from the con- 
 fines of the Miconnais to the district of Lyons. There is a 
 chain of mountains in this district traversed by numerous 
 valleys, and the conformation thus engendered produces a 
 natural division of the district into the high and low Beau- 
 jolais. The high Beaujolais consists of the cantons of Beau- 
 jeu and Bellevil-le, where the best vineyards are met with. 
 The low Beaujolais produces a greater quantity of wine, but 
 of a less distinguished quality. There are now in this district 
 20,000 hectares of vineyards stretching over a length of 
 35 kilometres, and a breadth of 6 kilometres. The soil is 
 granitic, the red quartzy porphyry predominating. In other 
 parts of the district a schistose soil comes out, and between 
 these two extremes of Plutonic and Neptunic formations 
 there are many gradations and mixtures. There is some very 
 clayey soil. In the lower parts of the valley the soil becomes 
 alluvial. Here also chalk appears, which in the Haut-Beau- 
 jolais is never present. In these clayey and chalky soils the 
 wine loses much of the quality which it possesses in the 
 higher situations. The exposure of the principal vineyards 
 of the Beaujolais is towards the east and the south. Some 
 are turned towards the west. Their inclination is very vary- 
 • ing, and is different with every growth. 
 
 DOMINATING VINES, AND THEIR CULTIVATION. 
 There are two vines which prevail in the Beaujolais ; 
 namely, the Petit Gamay and the Camay Nicolas. The 
 latter has very short-noded canes, and small leaves, which are 
 as wide as they are long, five-lobed, and of a light green 
 colour. Its flowers perish easily in bad weather. The grapes 
 are elongated, conical, and winged. They are loose-hanging 
 
41 6 DOMINATING VINES. [chap. 
 
 grapes, unequal, of middle size, ovoid, black, very bloomy, 
 juicy, with a thin skin, and of a particularly sweet taste. This 
 vine is the basis of all the better growths. In some parts, 
 on the borders of the Sa6ne particularly, other varieties of 
 the Gamay are met with, as also the Persagne. This latter 
 variety is more productive, but gives a wine of an inferior 
 quality. Viticulture is here carried on by resident vineyard 
 men, each of whom gets an area of from four to five acres 
 as a farmer from the proprietor, and cultivates it with his 
 family. The rent which he pays is half the produce in wine. 
 The plantation is that which is usual everywhere ; namely, 
 with blind canes. The vineyard is dug round three times. 
 
 Fig. 66. — Vine of the Beaujolais fixed to its stake, in full bearing. On the right a pruned 
 vine of the Beaujolais before the commencement of growth in spring. 
 
 or turned with the hoe, all the work being done by hand. 
 The vine is dressed upon what is called three or four horns, . 
 and of these horns each gets two eyes. At Fleury the old 
 vines are allowed only one eye on each horn, but the young 
 ones are allowed three. The vines are not everywhere sup- 
 ported by stakes, but are trained up so as to stand by them- 
 selves as low shrubs. Sometimes they are allowed stakes 
 for six or ten years, until they are strong enough, and then 
 the stakes are taken away. The renewal of vines by layers 
 is not at all usual. This arises, no doubt, from the particular 
 
XII.] CLASSIFICATION OF WINES. 417 
 
 mode of cutting which produces one or more heads on the 
 top of a vine-plant, which is a foot or eighteen inches high, 
 and then produces a great number of shoots, but no good 
 canes which could be laid down. In some parts of the Beau- 
 jolais we have also perceived the new method of training vines 
 on wires stretched in parallel rows across the field, and 
 fastened at each end to posts of stone. After the vine has 
 attained a certain age, it does not remain fructiferous. It is 
 then torn out, the soil re-grubbed, and a new plantation 
 effected. The productiveness of the vineyards is here enor- 
 mous, a hectare yielding in the Haut-Beaujolais on an average 
 twenty pieces of 210 litres each. In the Lower Beaujolais 
 this quantity is yet far exceeded. 
 
 VINTAGE. 
 
 The vintage takes place from the 20th to the 30th of 
 September. The stalks are not removed from the grapes, 
 and ordinarily the grapes are not even crushed. The vintage 
 is thrown into vats, and then allowed to ferment for eighteen, 
 twenty-four, or forty-eight hours. In cold autumns the vatting 
 has to be continued for six days. The wine is then treated 
 like that of the Bourgogne. 
 
 GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF THE WINES. 
 
 The better wines in the Beaujolais may be arranged 
 under three categories : — First, the fine, early maturing, and 
 little-coloured wines of Chinas, Fleury, Lanci^, St. Etienne- 
 la-Varennes; secondly, the fine, strong, deep-coloured, and 
 long-lasting wines, of which Julli^nas is the representative ; 
 and, thirdly, the semi-fine wines which are esteemed, but do 
 not reach the quality of the former. The wines in this district 
 are more delicate than the wines of the south of France. 
 They taste juicy, and frequently are very sour. It is for this 
 reason that they are esteemed in France, where it is usual to 
 mix water with the wine. To countries where this process is 
 not usual, only the good wines with a minimum of acidity can 
 be imported. 
 
 E E 
 
4i8 
 
 THE MACONNAIS. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF THE BEAUJOLAIS WINES BY THE 
 TRADERS OF MACON. 
 
 Charentay, near Belleville 
 La Chassugne, near Ausi. 
 TuUie, near Beaujeu. 
 Lancie, near Belleville. 
 Lantigni, near Beaujeu. 
 
 ArRONDISSEMENT <U' VILLEFR.4NCHE. 
 
 Opunicie, near Beaujeu. 
 Regnie, near Beaujeu. 
 Villie, near Roman^che. 
 St. Lager, near Belleville. 
 
 These wines are not generally known in commerce (except 
 in their own district) under these names. They are included 
 generally under the name of Beaujolais Ordinaire, Beaujolais 
 Grand Ordinaire, according to quality. These wines are sold, 
 according to quality, from 80 francs to 1 10 francs for the 1866, 
 and from 115 francs to 140 francs for the 1865. 
 
 ARRONDISSEMENT OF ViLLEFRANCHE. 
 Jullienas, near Belleville. 
 Odenas, near Beaujeu. 
 St. Etienne-la-Varennes, near 
 
 Belleville. 
 Romaneche, near Belle /ille. 
 Chenas, near Beaujeu. 
 Chiroubles, near Romaneche. 
 
 ARRONDISSEMENT OF ViLLEFRANCHE. 
 Brouilly, near Belleville. 
 Morgon, near Romaneche. 
 Fleurie, near Romaneche. 
 
 ARRONDISSEMENT OF MaCON. 
 
 Les Thorins, near Romaneche. 
 Moulin-a-Vcnt, near Romaneche. 
 
 These wines are generally known by these names. They 
 are sold, according to quality, at from 130 francs to 250 
 francs for the 1866, and from 160 francs to 400 francs for the 
 1864-S. 
 
 THE MACONNAIS.— GENERAL DIVISION OF 
 DISTRICT AND SOIL. 
 
 This district is situated around the town of Macon, also in 
 the valley of the Saone. It may be divided into five belts, of 
 which four yield exclusively red wines. The fifth, however, 
 gives exclusively white wines. The first belt includes the 
 Thorins and the Romaneche. This vineyard produces the 
 finest class of the Maconnais. The second belt is represented 
 typically by the vineyard of St. Amour. The third belt is 
 represented by the vineyard of Davaye. The fourth belt 
 includes the whole district north of Mdcon, and the canton of 
 Lugny. The wines of the latter are inferior to those of the 
 
xii.J PREDOMINATING VINES. 419 
 
 other districts, and remain common, but the production is 
 abundant. At first they are rough, but after some years 
 they become very drinkable. North of this district there is 
 the vineyard of Tournus, which produces an abundance of 
 flat and dark-coloured wines. But this district no longer 
 belongs to the Maconnais. The fifth zone is represented by 
 the vineyard of Pouilly, which gives the typical white wines 
 of Mdconnais. Most of the good vineyards are situated on 
 slopes, some of them being very steep. The soil is of nearly 
 the same quality as in the Beaujolais, but the carbonate of 
 lime is more frequently met with. White wines, in particular, 
 are mostly grown on chalky soil. The rich alluvial soil in the 
 valley of the Saone, which would give excellent cereals and 
 fodder plants, now produces rough common wines, which go 
 to supply the wants of the town of Lyons. 
 
 PREDOMINATING VINES. 
 Formerly the Pineau, known under the name of Bourguinon, 
 was the exclusive vine of the distinguished growths ; but this 
 has almost entirely disappeared, and given way to the Camay, 
 which here is termed bon plant and plant de la dombe. There 
 are three particular varieties of this Gamay, namely, the 
 Gamay Picard, and the two varieties which we know also 
 to be cultivated in the Beaujolais, the Gamay Nicolas and 
 the Petit Gamay. We must here remark that these Gamays 
 have nothing in common with that particular vine called the 
 Gros Gamay, the planting and cultivating of which was for- 
 bidden by a law passed by Philip le Hardi, and the Parliaments 
 of Metz and Dijon. The bons plants of the MAconnais are 
 not only great bearers of fruit, but they have also solid 
 qualities for the making of wines. On the other hand, the 
 apprehension must not be disguised — that if the viticulturists 
 lose sight entirely of the qualities of the Pineau, and go in 
 for quantity only, their vineyards will soon lose the reputation 
 for quality which they once possessed. In the vineyards for 
 white wines, the Chardenet, or white Pineau, which we also 
 know to be the white grape of the Bourgogne and the Cham- 
 pagne, predominates. 
 
 E E 2 
 
420 MODE OF CULTIVATION. [chap. 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATION. — VINTAGE AND TREATMENT 
 OF RED WINES. 
 
 Plantations are effected by blind canes. The young vines 
 are trained upon three horns, and cut short, two eyes being 
 the average length. Dead vines are replaced by layers. 
 When the vineyard has attained its highest age the vines are 
 torn out, the soil is grubbed, then fallowed for some years, and 
 again planted. The vines receive stakes only during the 
 first years. All the cultivation of the soil is effected by hand 
 by means of the mattock. The vine begins to bear in the 
 fourth year, and is in full bearing in the sixth. The vintage 
 in the Miconnais begins between the 20th and 30th of Sep- 
 tember, or sometimes in October. The grapes are deposited 
 in pails, and immediately crushed by means of the hand ; but 
 no particular crushing is effected after that, nor any removal 
 of stalks, and the grapes are thrown into vats to ferment. 
 The vatting is usually, and in warm weather particularly, 
 short, lasting only thirty-six hours. In the lower parts of 
 the Maconnais the vatting lasts four or five days. The wine 
 which is drawn, and the wine which is afterwards obtained 
 from the murk by pressure, are mixed. The wines, when in 
 the barrel, are treated in the same manner as the wines of the 
 Bourgogne and Gironde. The Macon wines may be put in 
 bottles after three, or four, or five years, their maturity de- 
 pending upon the quality of the year. The wine is fined by 
 means of white of egg. It is ripe for drinking six months 
 after bottling. The wine of Macon is mostly sold in Paris, 
 Lyons, and Geneva, provided it is of cheap quality. The 
 better Micon wine is sometimes carried into the Bourgogne 
 to be sold as wine of that country. We have tasted many 
 qualities of the Maconnais wines. Some were of the greatest 
 purity, very alcoholic, and tremendously acid. It is much 
 to be regretted that viticulturists of those districts do not 
 employ scientific men to adjust the acidity of their wines to 
 a proper quantum, for we have no doubt that their quality 
 would be greatly improved thereby, although they would lose 
 somewhat in the estimatiq^ of the French wine-and-water 
 
XII.J THE WHITE VINE. 421 
 
 drinkers, who look only to acid and alcohol, and not to flavour. 
 Physiologically, the Miconnais of good years affect the 
 constitution as the Burgundies do. Owing to their great 
 acidity, the alcohol which they contain remains unperceived 
 in the drinking, and shows itself only by headiness, and pal- 
 pitation of the heart afterwards. 
 
 CULTIVATION OF THE WHITE VINE.— MATURING 
 AND CHARACTER OF WHITE WINE. 
 
 The processes used at Pouilly and Fuisse are typical of 
 those followed in the whole district. The white vines are also 
 cut so as to form horns, but the canes are left very long, the 
 exact length being regulated by the vigour of the plant ; but 
 it may be said that on an average each cane has ten eyes. 
 Young vines begin to bear in the fifth year, and are in full 
 bearing in the seventh. The vintage takes place at the end 
 of September. The grapes are deposited in baignoires, and 
 gently squeezed with the hands. They are then immediately 
 pressed, and the must is allowed to run into the barrels. 
 Fermentation over, the barrels are kept carefully filled, and 
 the wine is drawn in March, and again racked in August. All 
 the white wines of the Maconnais district go to the town of 
 Macon, and are thence transported to Paris. The Pouilly 
 wine is dry, and possesses finesse and a nice bouquet. Its 
 only fault, like that of the other Maconnais wines, is that of 
 being too heady. It is not so transparent as the ChabHs, but 
 has a more golden colour, preferred by many consumers. It 
 is necessary to leave the wine for two years in cask before 
 putting it in bottles. At the age of four years its vinosity and 
 perfume are fully developed. The Fuiss^ is inferior to the 
 Pouilly as regards finesse and generosity. It is, therefore, 
 mostly employed to mix with Pouilly. Chaintr^ is less vinous 
 and has less distinguished qualities than Pouilly, but it is a 
 pleasurable sort of small wine, and of good taste. In the 
 best vineyards of Pouilly the hectare yields about 18 hecto- 
 litres. The white wine of Pouilly, when bought at the vat, is 
 worth about 50 francs the hectolitre. The wines of Fuissd 
 and Soiutr^ are rarely worth mg<t tha n 40 francs. 
 
422 COTE OF CHALON. [chap. 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF THE MACONNAIS WINES BY THE 
 TRADERS OF mACON. 
 
 Red. 
 
 White. 
 
 Prisse. 
 
 St. Amour. 
 
 Creusenoir. 
 
 Davaye. 
 
 Pouilly-Fuisse. 
 Fuisse. 
 Solutre. 
 Chaintre. 
 
 All in the immediate neighbourhood of MsLcon. The Mdcon 
 
 )st-office serves these localities. 
 
 COTE OF CHALON. 
 
 Under this name we comprise the vineyards of the 
 arrondissement of Chalon-sur-Sa6ne. Ordinarily, only com- 
 mon wines are here produced, but the better qualities have 
 much analogy to the half fine wines and great ordinaries 
 of the Cote d'Or. For this reason they are often sold as 
 great ordinaries of the C6te d'Or, but they are less marrowy 
 and have a less free taste. The vineyards are divided into 
 three zones. The lowest is the plain. The others are the 
 half c6tes, and the c6te called coteau. The plain yields only 
 common wines. The half c6tes yield wines of ordinary 
 second quality. The best wines are obtained on the incline 
 which commences north of Chalon, runs through Jivry, and 
 then loses itself in the Maconnais. The soil is chalk mixed 
 with clay, silica, and oxyde of iron. Much of it is alluvial. 
 The best growths of the Cote are protected by hills from the 
 north wind, and the sun shines on them from its rising to its 
 setting. They have the ideal exposure. The vines which here 
 predominate are. the Pineau, the Beurot, or Grey Pineau, which 
 is the same as the German " Rulander ; " the Gamay ; and the 
 Giboudot, which is also called Malain, or " plant of Abraham." 
 In this district, as well as in the Miconnais and the Beaujolais, 
 the desire for the production of quantity is increasing daily, 
 and in consequence the black Burgundy grape is being dimin- 
 ished in numbers, and the more plenteous bearer, the Gamay, 
 substituted. This will, no doubt, in the course of time 
 seriously affect the quality of the wine of this district. The 
 Gamay which is grown here is very similar to that of the other 
 
XII.] COTE OF CHALON. 423 
 
 districts, but not identical with it Its grapes ripen rather 
 late, and as the grapes of the Beurot ripen early the vintagers 
 are by this mixture compelled to harvest a little before the 
 Gamay is fully ripe. This makes the wine more acid and 
 less perfect than it otherwise might be. The variety of vine 
 called the Giboudot has no virtue except its enormous fer- 
 tility. Wherever it is introduced into vineyards it ruins the 
 reputation of their wines. It has enormous grapes, with loose- 
 hanging berries. These berries ripen late, and unequally ; 
 their skin is very thick, so that with the ordinary mode of 
 vatting, where no pressure is employed to crush them, they 
 remain entire. The wine obtained from them is violet red, 
 harsh, and sour, and can be drunk only after it has been in the 
 barrel many years. This grape might be grown in the plain, 
 in places where no other good quality would grow ; but it 
 should never be allowed to enter the good vineyards, for, 
 strange to relate, this vine has also the bad quality of re- 
 maining the same with all its faults, whether it is cultivated 
 on the low plain or in the best exposure on the hill-side. 
 It is probably to be considered as the prime cause of the 
 loss of reputation which this district has sustained. A few 
 white grapes are grown in this district, being the White 
 Burgundy and a variety of Gamay. The latter gives an 
 excessively flat wine. In the district of Mercurey there is 
 still the vintage ban, but this will astonish no one who sees 
 the general want of intelligence that characterizes viticulture 
 in this part. The wines of the Chalonnais are sold in pieces 
 of 228 litres. They mostly pass to Paris by Chalon. The 
 wine of Mercurey has for many years had a great repu- 
 tation. The merchants of Beaune bought this wine in order 
 to mix it with Volnay, to which it was very similar, and of 
 which it increased the small actual quantity, but with the 
 gradual decrease of its quality Mercurey wine lost even this 
 value. This has not been brought about only by the intro- 
 duction of the Giboudot, but also by the want of care on the 
 part of the proprietors and wine-makers. In this district it 
 seems that the arrangement by which the vineyards are 
 farmed out at the rent of half the crop does not work well. 
 
424 COTE OF CHALON. [chap. xii. 
 
 We cannot, however, be astonished that viticulture every- 
 where should participate in the tendency allowed even in the 
 administration of the best growths ; for when Chateau Mar- 
 gaux, is sold at a fixed price of 3,cxx) francs the tonneau to 
 speculators, the viticulture of Chiteau Margaux must of 
 course be directed upon the production of quantity, and is 
 in fact so directed. How then can we blame the ignorant 
 vigneron of the Chalon C6te for imitating the practice of the 
 most intelligent and the richest wine-producers .'' 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE WINES OF BURGUNDY. 
 
 Introduction. — Topography of Burgundy. — Varieties of vines planted in the 
 Bourgogne. — Passe-tous-grains. — Pineau. — Gamay. — La Dole. — Beurot. — 
 Chardenay. — Mode of cultivation. — Plantation in disorder. — Manuring. — 
 Labour. — Grafting. — Summer treatment of the vine. — Vintage. — Vatting and 
 fermentation. — Presses and pressing. — After treatment of the wine. — Area and 
 classification of the vineyards in the arrondissement of Beaune. 
 
 INTRODUCTIOInT. 
 It is probable that Burgundy is the oldest viticultural 
 country in Central Europe, and that thence migrated the art 
 of making wine to many parts of France and to Germany 
 In the Middle Ages Burgundy was the standard wine on the 
 tables of the great and mighty of the world, and a glass of 
 Burgundy was the finest drink which any one could offer to 
 his most honoured guest. When the reputation of Burgundy 
 wine had been established, many proprietors without that 
 district endeavoured to obtain the vine from which that 
 beautiful beverage was produced ; and the value of the 
 plant may be estimated from the fact recorded in history, 
 that reigning princes of Burgundy made presents of such 
 vines to other princes whom they befriended. Thus the 
 Burgundy vine migrated across the Rhine, up the Maine, 
 into Saxony, Bohemia, and Moravia, and with it the 
 peculiar mode of cultivating it which we see in Burgundy. 
 The changes which taste in general has undergone also pro- 
 duced a change in the taste for Burgundy wine. The place 
 which it formerly occupied in society is now taken by 
 Champagne ; and in those parts, for example, of Germany 
 
426 TOPOGRAPHY 01' BURGUNDY. [chap. 
 
 where formerly much Burgundy was drunk, now hardly any 
 is met with. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF BURGUNDY. 
 
 That part of Burgundy which produces the best wines of 
 this department has been called by the French the Cote d'Or, 
 or "golden hill-side." This is formed by a series of hills, 
 about thirty-six miles in length, which stretch from Chalon 
 on the Saone to Dijon in the direction of N.N.E. to S.S.W., 
 their cultivated inclination and exposure being consequently 
 wards the east. When in October we .stood to the south of 
 Beaune, and looked up the Cote, we saw the sun sink right 
 behind the hills. They have a height of about from 200 to 
 300 feet, and consist of a loose chalk mixed with a little clay. 
 Towards the east of these hills there expands an enormous 
 fertile plain, which stretches right to the Jura Mountain. 
 When one ascends any of the hills of the Cote in fine 
 weather, one can see the Jura Mountain, and behind it 
 Mont Blanc. Along these thirty miles of declivity an un- 
 interrupted series of vineyards has been planted. They 
 begin on the upper third of the hills, never ascending to 
 the brow, and then stretch down the inclination into the 
 plain, and frequently extend for a mile or two in the plain 
 itself The good vineyards are all situated about the lower 
 third of the inclines. The property in the good situations is 
 very much divided, so that a vineyard of five hectares is very 
 rarely met with. An exception to this is the Clos de Vongeot, 
 which has about 50 hectares of vineyard, and is sur- 
 rounded by a wall. The vineyard of the Clos appears to the 
 eye to be almost level, for the lower part has only 3°, and 
 the upper better part has only 10° inclination. The Clos 
 Romance Conti has only about 24 hectares. Its inclination 
 is only 3 to 5°. The Chambertins contain only 4 to 5 hectares 
 and that of only 8° incHnation. 
 
 As these enclosed vineyards are the most noted of the 
 many of the Bourgogne, and as the others which approach 
 them in quality are also very flat, it may be said that 
 a vineyard which has an inclination of above 10° io 
 
XUL] varieties of wines. 427 
 
 the Bourgogne does not belong to the first class. Along 
 the higher regions of the hills many deserted vineyards 
 with old terraces may be discovered. They tell their own 
 story, namely, that the vine does not succeed above a certain 
 height along the incline. We have observed a similar circum- 
 stance in the Champagne, where the black Burgundy grape 
 did not rise up to the crest of the hill, but at the upper 
 third was replaced by the white Burgundy. Thus nature 
 limited the production of Burgundy on two sides — on the 
 side of the mountain by spring frosts, and on the side of 
 the plain by want of quality of the produce. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES PLANTED IN THE BOURGOGNE. 
 
 Burgundy has, like all viticultural countries, a mixture of 
 vines in its vineyards, termed by the French Passe-tous-grains. 
 The black grape peculiar to the Bourgogne, the Pineau or 
 Noirien, is the dominating variety along the Cote ; but in the 
 ordinary situations, and in small vineyards, white and red 
 grapes are found among the black. The Pineau is also the 
 dominating grape in the Champagne. But by the side of 
 it there is another variety, namely, the Camay, a black 
 grape of large berries, which is the dominant grape of the 
 Maconnais and Beaujolais. This latter grape gives a wine 
 of much inferior quality, but the vine bears much more 
 abundantly, for which reason it is preferred by those who 
 get paid for quantity only. The must of the Noirien is much 
 sweeter than that of the Camay, showing 96° with the 
 gravimeter when the latter shows only 84°. It is very 
 difficult to distinguish the two vines where they grow mixed.' 
 The Camay shows a stronger growth and development. Its 
 leaves are a little blistery on the surface, and the lower side 
 is a little felty, and the ribs are hairy. They are more easily 
 distinguished by their fruit, that of the Camay being larger 
 in the berries and frequently showing some unripe ones, while 
 the Noirien is always of equal ripeness in all its berries. 
 Some assume the Camay to be only a variety of the 
 Noirien, and to have been first developed near the little 
 
428 MODE OF CULTIVATION. [CHAP 
 
 village called Gamay. We do not know whether it is the 
 Camay near Blagny or near St. Aubin. This is the same 
 vine which is planted at Bolle in Switzerland, and is there 
 called La Dole, having been brought there from Dole in 
 Burgundy. It has now been so multiplied in that part that 
 a great amount of effervescent wine is manufactured from it 
 at Vdvais on the Lake of Geneva. It is not incredible that 
 the Gamay should be merely a variety of the Pineau, inasmuch 
 as the tendency of the Pineau to form varieties is no doubt 
 very great. Another variety which frequently occurs in 
 Burgundy is a light red one called Beurot, known in 
 Germany as Rulander. Of white grapes there is the Char- 
 denay or White Burgundy, which is grown in the Champagne 
 in the higher lying vineyards, but also mixed with the other 
 vines, and prevails in the northern part of Burgundy, yielding 
 among others the celebrated wine of Chablis. 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 In Burgundy, the method of renewing the vineyards by 
 sinking canes is prevalent. It is, therefore, not customary to 
 cut out vineyards entirely and plant them afresh. Where, 
 however, such a process becomes desirable from epidemic 
 diseases, exhaustion of the soil, or wish on the part of the 
 proprietors to effect changes in the inclination, the ordinary 
 method is adopted. The soil is grubbed for a depth of a foot 
 and a half to two feet. Then fallow plants are sown, and 
 when half grown they are dug under. After such an 
 improvement of the soil has been carried on for two or three 
 years, blind canes are planted, or- -which is frequently 
 preferred — young plants with roots. They are planted in 
 lines, at distances from a foot to a foot and a half They are 
 then allowed to grow, are manured, cut for the first time 
 in the third year, dressed upon two spurs in the fourth year, 
 provided with stakes from 4 to 5 feet in length, and then 
 allowed to bear fruit. When rejuvenescence becomes 
 desirable, they are laid in the ground in the same manner as 
 we have seen in the Champagne, and described in Chapter III., 
 p. 74. But in Burgundy this rejuvenescence is not effected 
 
XIII.] MODE OF CULTIVATION. 429 
 
 with the same regularity as in the Champagne, and we have 
 seen in many parts, particularly along the Cotes of Beaune, 
 vines which must have had an age of at least ten, fifteen, 
 or twenty years. Here sinkers were laid in the ground 
 only for the purpose of replacing vines which had died out. 
 When the vine is fully developed, there are only two spurs 
 left, an upper bearing spur of three eyes, and a lower growing 
 spur of two eyes. By the repetition of this cutting year 
 after year, the vine gradually rises from the ground, and in 
 the course of eight or ten years obtains a height which has 
 two disadvantages : firstly, the stakes cannot carry the plant 
 any longer ; secondly, the grapes get too far away from the 
 ground, and do not ripen sufficiently. Then it becomes neces- 
 sary to sink the vine into the ground, and form a new vine by 
 its one year's canes at a little distance from its former place. 
 The cutting of the vine in spring offers a peculiarity. While 
 in all other viticultural countries which we have visited, the 
 workman takes his knife and cuts the cane which he holds 
 in his left hand upwards, drawing the knife towards himself, 
 allowing the cut-off part to fall to the ground, in Burgundy 
 the labourer seizes the part of the cane to be cut off with his 
 left hand, inserts the knife underneath the hand and cuts 
 downwards, or away from himself. Each plant prepared as 
 above related shoots three new canes, and these are allowed 
 to grow until the middle of the summer. They are tied to- 
 gether at the top, and commonly when the grapes begin to 
 colour the tops are cut off, excepting, however, all canes which 
 it is intended to sink. These are allowed to grow to their 
 fullest possible length. The sinking is done partly in autumn 
 and partly in spring. We have' seen it performed in the 
 neighbourhood of Beaune in the beginning of November, at 
 the same time that the winter hoeing was being performed. 
 The vines had been cut, and the labourers were turning the 
 ground with their pioches, and when they came to a part 
 where a sinker had to be made they dug a ditch with the same 
 instrument, immersed the cane, and covered it with earth. 
 
 As the reproduction of the vine is very irregular, the 
 vineyards of Burgundy do not present that remarkably culti- 
 
43° 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 [chap- 
 
 vated and orderly appearance of the vineyards of the Cham- 
 pagne. On the contrary, the peculiar sight is one of extreme 
 inequality, very young vines being mixed in all the vineyards 
 with very old ones, and very low ones with very high ones. The 
 soil, moreover, is not kept as even as that of the Champagne, 
 it being mostly stony and chalky, and the ditches which are 
 made for the purpose of sinking being left partly uncovered 
 till the next year, in order to receive a quantity of manure or 
 compost earth. As this sinking is going on constantly, and 
 as every year about one-fifteenth of the vines are sunk, so that 
 
 Fig. 67.- View of vines bearing the; red Burgundy grapes in the Cote d'Or 
 fins.) Irregular plantation ; high footings. 
 
 (Pioeauc 
 
 the whole vineyard is rejuvenesced in from ten to fifteen years 
 the vineyards look as if they had been rummaged by pigs. 
 
 MANURING. 
 A common manure is the murk. From the end of October 
 throughout the winter one can see large masses of murk being 
 carried up the mountains into the several vineyards, and dis- 
 tributed to the various vines. In many parts of Burgundy 
 
XIU.] 
 
 LABOUR. 
 
 431 
 
 this is the only manure which the growers allow or profess to 
 allow, for there is a curious belief that vineyards which have 
 not been manured give a more fiery and darker-coloured wine, 
 and a wine which becomes more quickly clear than vineyards 
 which have been manured with animal dung. But we cannot 
 suppose this belief to exist among rational viticulturists, for 
 nothing could be more erroneous and more contrary to the 
 experience of the best situations in the world. [See 
 Johannisberg and Steinberg, and the cultivation of the 
 Gironde, where we have fully exhibited the important share 
 which the rich manuring of these splendid growths bears in 
 their magnificent product.] In many properties manuring 
 with stable dung is carried out as elsewhere. 
 
 LABOUR. 
 The work in the vineyards is done by hand, for which 
 
 Fro. 6P. — Efiftct of pinchirg bunch-stalks. Above an exccFsively long bunch, which if it 
 had been cut at the proper time, in the place indicated by the line, would have assumed 
 the same favourable development as the lower bunch, which was thus pinched during 
 its early growth. Common practice in the Jura. 
 
 purpose they are divided into ouvrhs, or areas, which give a 
 
432 
 
 GRAFTING. [CHAP. 
 
 day's work to a man. Such an ouvr^e has 3,645 square feet. 
 In each of them about fifteen or twenty vines have to be 
 sunk every year — a labour which is included in the contract. 
 If more vines have to be sunk, one sou per vine is paid. In 
 many parts of Burgundy, however, the old arrangement 
 prevails by which the labourer does all the work in the 
 vineyard, receiving half the harvest as his payment. He 
 generally has from three to four hectares, which he and his 
 family cultivate. He carries all the earth and manure, finds 
 the poles or stakes, performs the vintage, presses the wine, 
 and, in short, does every operation until the wine is in the 
 barrel. In parts where the wines are very good and high in 
 price the viticulturist has yet to bear the half of the taxes 
 and communal imposts. The proprietor, however, allows him 
 collateral advantages, in the shape of plots of land for the 
 keeping of animals, and free lodging. This peculiar practice 
 of dividing estates into vintageries as we will call them, or 
 vigneronnages, has been carried into Saxony, particularly 
 into the neighbourhood of Dresden, where the whole vine- 
 producing district is cultivated upon the pattern of Burgundy. 
 This system has been most developed in the Mdconnais. 
 
 GRAFTING. 
 
 The method of laying the vines which is carried on in 
 Burgundy is frequently joined with simultaneous grafting. 
 There are plants which, although of a proper variety, are not 
 abundant bearers ; and it is well to improve these by the 
 process of grafting. This has the advantage that grapes may 
 be obtained in the very first year, and that, consequently, if 
 it be adopted on any large scale, the time otherwise lost by 
 replanting will be saved. The foot of the vine to be grafted 
 is freed from earth, the so-called dew-roots are cut off, and 
 everything is arranged for laying the vine. A branch is now 
 selected at a height of from one and a half to two feet from 
 the ground, where there is good two-years' wood. This is 
 cut in such a manner that there are, at least two inches of 
 two-years' wood left. This is split with the knife for an inch 
 
Xin.] GRAFTING. 
 
 433 
 
 and a half. The graft, which is a cane of one year's standing 
 of some feet in length, having at its end two to three inches 
 of two years' wood cut in the shape of a wedge, is now in- 
 serted into the slit of the stump; so that the bark and plinth 
 of one side fit the bark and plinth of the same side of the 
 stump. Of course it is better if the branch is so selected that 
 the bark and plinth on both sides fit upon each other. The 
 joint is now wound round with wool-yarn, or straw, or hemp, 
 and the whole plant, including the union, is sunk into the 
 ground, and bedded in, as well as covered with good mould 
 free from stones. At the proper place the graft is bent 
 upwards, cut upon two eyes, tied to a stake, and allowed to 
 grow. If it be desired to let the new vine come forward in 
 the place of the old foot, it is only necessary to turn the graft 
 in a circle, which requires, of course, a circular hole. The 
 peculiarities of this method of grafting are twofold. In the 
 first place, two years' wood is grafted upon two years' wood, 
 while in most other grafting — that of fruit trees, for example — 
 one year's branches are grafted upon wood several years 
 old. One year's wood of the vine may also be grafted, but it 
 is not so certain to take as two years' wood ; and this differ- 
 ence arises most probably from the thinness of the bark 
 of the one year's wood. A second peculiarity is, that the 
 union is sunk into the ground. This has the advantage of 
 keeping the junction moist, and allowing of a healing of 
 the wounds by a process which is partly bark-growth and 
 partly root-growth. This healing underground is perfect, 
 and a sound union is obtained, while a vine grafted in this 
 manner above ground never sets a sound union, but always 
 rots in the pith. 
 
 The grafts to be used in this operation, according to the 
 Burgundy method, have to be cut a month before the grafting. 
 In particular, they have to be removed from the vines before 
 any sap has risen. It is therefore advantageous to cut them 
 in the month of November, before the frost, and to put them 
 in a cellar, covering them with earth or sand. By this pro- 
 ceeding they obtain a sort of individual life, which makes 
 them more inclined to take. 
 
 F F 
 
434 VI NT A GE. [chap. 
 
 SUMMER TREATMENT OF THE VINE. 
 
 The soil is turned by hoeing, in May. The hoes are very 
 short, and the angle at which the iron is bent upon the handle 
 is very acute. The consequence is that the working of the 
 ground is not carried to any depth. If attempted, it is found 
 very difficult on account of the many stones contained in the 
 soil. At the same time the vines are freed from all unnecessary 
 shoots, and everything is concentrated into the three branches 
 which the vine is allowed to grow. The branches are tied up 
 in June loosely, so that they form a basket within which 
 the blossoming can take place. In July, after blossoming, 
 the branches are tied once more, higher up. Towards the 
 autumn the tops of the vines are cut here and there. In 
 August the soil is worked once more in order to remove all 
 weeds until at last in September and October the time of the 
 vintage arrives. In November and December the stakes are 
 drawn and put together in round heaps ; but we have also 
 seen in many parts that the stakes were drawn and the vines 
 were laid flat on the ground, the stakes being used to weigh 
 them down, and stones being laid where the stakes were not 
 heavy enough for the purpose. 
 
 VINTAGE. 
 In favourable years the vintage takes place in the latter 
 half of September, but in less favourable ones in the first 
 half of October. It is supposed that the vintages which take 
 place in September yield a better wine than those which take 
 place in October. All enclosed properties have, of course, 
 perfect liberty to collect their grapes when they please ; but 
 the small proprietors, whose growths form the great bulk of 
 the general vintages, are obliged to obey a certain communal 
 law which is called the vintage ban. It is the product of a 
 silly avarice. According to this regulation the vineyards are 
 to be protected by keeping everybody out of them from the 
 time the grapes begin to ripen until the time of the vintage. 
 The proprietors are not allowed to enter their vineyards 
 except, perhaps, once a week, during an interval which is 
 
XIII.] VINTAGE. 435 
 
 announced by the village bells. When the grapes are ripe 
 a commission is appointed, consisting generally of the mayor, 
 a proprietor, a practical vintager, and one merchant. This 
 Commission visits the vineyard and forms an opinion whether 
 or not the grapes ought to be collected. When they have 
 determined the time, they announce it to the mayor or the 
 prefect, and it is published by the town-crier or by other 
 means. We have already in several places shown the 
 absurdity of this miserable law. The Gironde ridded itself 
 of it during the Revolution. At the same time it was 
 abolished in Burgundy, but it returned with the Restora- 
 tion. In the Rhenish provinces of Germany it was also 
 abolished, and now remains only in a modified form ;' but 
 in Wiirtemberg, and some of the wine-producing countries 
 on the other side of the Rhine, it has continued to exer- 
 cise its baneful influence in the same manner as in Bur- 
 gundy : for he who has early ripening grapes is obliged to 
 let them hang until the late ripening grapes in the district 
 have attained a tolerable maturity ; and when he comes 
 to his vineyard he finds his crop either eaten by the flies, 
 or rotten, or over-ripe, and. in any case yields him a lesser 
 quantity or quality of wine. He who has late ripening 
 grapes, cannot let them hang to ripen, because from the 
 moment that the vintage is over he loses the protection 
 of the public custody of the fields. The consumers of wine 
 will thus see that they are grievously injured by this law, 
 which produces either loss of quantity or quality, and 
 prevents that exercise of liberty in the administration of 
 property which alone is capable of producing economical 
 results. Here, as in the Champagne, the vintage is performed 
 by strangers who flock to the country from the neighbouring 
 villages. The terms upon which they give their labour are, 
 in general, the same as those which we shall describe as 
 prevalent in the Champagne. Some of the labourers in 
 the vineyards cut the grapes. Others carry them to baskets 
 which are put up here and there. These baskets are 
 in general the same size and shape as those used in the 
 Champagne. The places where such baskets are standing 
 
 F F 2 
 
436 VINTAGE. [chap. 
 
 are marked by high stakes that the porters may know 
 where to carry the hand baskets when they are full. The 
 large baskets when filled in their turn are then placed on the 
 backs of men, who have strapped to their shoulders peculiar 
 instruments by which to fix them. The baskets are 
 then placed side by side at the margin of the vineyard if 
 it abuts upon the carriage-road, or they are carried to the 
 nearest carriage-road. At the appointed time a cart drawn 
 by a horse arrives. In the cart is a large oval vat looking like 
 a large bathing tub. The carter now takes off his boots, 
 turns his trousers up above his knees, and stands in the vat, 
 or ballonge. The porters now hand basket after basket to 
 the carter, who empties them into the vat, and then treads 
 the grapes down as fast and as firmly as he can. About 
 twenty baskets of 3| feet in length, and \\ feet wide and 
 I foot high, go into such a ballonge. When the vat is full 
 the carter dismounts, rubs his feet upon the nearest bundle 
 of grass, puts on his boots, drives the cart home, and takes 
 care that the grapes are immediately put into the large vats. 
 This done, the carter returns to the roadside to fetch a 
 similar load, and again takes off his boots to tread down the 
 grapes with his unwashed feet, as before. In this manner the 
 great bulk of Burgundy grapes are carried home, but we have 
 also seen instances in which the grapes were cut and selected 
 and carried home in a more cleanly manner. In these cases 
 the stalks were removed and the berries treated by them- 
 selves. Here, as in the Champagne, many of the grapes are 
 sold while hanging on the vines. The proprietors collect 
 them according to the prescription of the purchasers. Many 
 wine merchants buy the whole harvest of a vineyard and 
 collect the grapes themselves. Frequently the grapes are 
 bought after collection by the proprietors, and during the 
 vintage a trade is carried on along all the roadsides of 
 Burgundy : there are the basketsful of grapes, and anyone 
 who likes can come and buy. The grapes are measured by 
 feuillettes. These are barrels of 114 litres' capacity, being 
 half a piece or a quarter queue. The half queue or entire 
 piece in Burgundy, therefore, contains 228 litres. The 
 
XIII.] VATTING AND FERMENTATION. 
 
 437 
 
 feuillettes used for measuring the grapes are provided with 
 two iron handles. The grapes are filled in without pressing, 
 and when the vessel is brimful the grapes are heaped 
 on the top as high as possible. Ten feuillettes full of 
 grapes generally give one queue or two pieces of wine ; or 
 1 140 litres of grapes give 456 litres of wine. That is to 
 say, 2\ bulks of grapes give i bulk of wine. 
 
 VATTING AND FERMENTATION. 
 After the grapes have been carried home they are taken 
 out of the ballonges, and, in the half-cru.shed condition in 
 which they then are, put into the vats or cuves. This is done 
 by lifting the ballonge to the margin of the vat and pulling 
 out the grapes by means of a kind of hook called a grappe. 
 By this instrument many of the berries which have before 
 escaped are now crushed. Of course in the process of crush- 
 ing by the feet and the grappe a great many of the ripest 
 berries are broken, but the harder and less ripe berries remain 
 unbroken. It is supposed that this fact is of advantage in 
 the following way. While fermentation proceeds the unbro- 
 ken berries are subject to a considerable amount of warmth 
 in the fermenting fluid, which is supposed to act beneficially 
 upon the production of sugar in their substance. When 
 the first fermentation is over and the wine is drawn, the 
 murk is subjected to pressure : these berries are now crushed, 
 and a new quantity of sweet must is brought into the wine 
 already fermented. By these means a more powerful second 
 fermentation in the drawn wine is produced, which the 
 viticulturists regard as advantageous to their product. The 
 separation of the berries from the stalks which is practised by 
 many careful viticulturists, will of course dispense with this 
 advantage ; and we must say that we consider the expla- 
 nation above given to be at least unproved. We have the 
 greatest doubt that mere warmth can increase the sugar in a 
 grape, for as the grape contains no starch, the process of 
 transformation which we know to take place in malt, or by 
 the agency of malt, cannot take place here ; but the 
 production of sugar in the grape is a process which is 
 
438 VATTING AND FERMENTATION. [chap. 
 
 accomplished independently of starch, and effected from 
 products the nature of which we do not know at present. 
 .The cuves in which the grapes are put to ferment are 
 generally higher than they are broad, and narrower at the 
 top than at the base. The shape has practical advantages on 
 account of the facility with which the hoops can be kept 
 tight. Their height is between 5 and 6 feet, regulated by 
 the height of a man who, as we shall see, will presently play 
 an important part in the cuve. These cuves are not provided 
 with a hole at the bottom for letting off the wine, but 
 throughout Burgundy the wine is drawn by means of syphons. 
 The cuves are therefore raised only one foot from the 
 ground, instead of three or four feet as they are in the 
 Gironde. Every proprietor endeavours to fill a cuve in one 
 day. Some of them are in the habit of moistening the 
 inside of the cuve with brandy, to take away what they call 
 the taste of the wood ; but as they do not afterwards remove 
 the brandy with the woody taste from the cuve, the process 
 results in an addition of spirit to the wine. The cuve is filled 
 to within a foot from the top. A narrow basket of the height 
 of the cuve is fixed to the inner side and serves as a well, 
 or space free from the murk of the grapes, from which the 
 wine is drawn by the syphon after fermentation. In many 
 parts of Burgundy the addition of sugar to the must is 
 very common. We have witnessed this addition, which, in 
 some cases, amounted to 20 lbs. to the piece. We believe 
 that much of the fieriness and alcoholicity — and so-called 
 " headiness " of Burgundy wine, of which amateurs com- 
 plain — arises from this addition of sugar, and that more 
 objectionable properties are by no means natural qualities of 
 the general products of the C6te d'Or. We are, however, 
 willing to admit that the increased alcoholicity may contri- 
 bute to preserve Burgundy better than it would keep in its 
 ordinary condition. The wine in the cuve is now allowed to 
 ferment until it is ready to be drawn. A quick fermentation, 
 which may be accomplished in from four to six days, is 
 preferred to a slow one ; for a quick fermentation has the 
 advantage of creating greater warmth, and effecting a better 
 
XIII.] VATTING AND FERMENTATION. 439 
 
 extraction of the colouring matter by the alcohol formed, 
 as well as a more perfect decomposition of the sugar. 
 
 While the fermentation proceeds the murk rises to the top 
 as in all similar fermentations, and forms what is technically 
 called the " hat " or chapeati. The chapeau, being penetrated 
 with gas, of course rises above the level of the liquor. As 
 long as the chapeau continues to rise or remains stationary, 
 the fermentation must be allowed to proceed. If a low 
 temperature should ensue, it is necessary to warm the 
 fermenting-room by means of stove.s. It may with advan- 
 tage be kept at a temperature of between 20 and 30° 
 Reaumur. The moment the chapeau begins to sink, it is 
 necessary to draw the wine in order to prevent the upper 
 or somewhat spoiled and acetified part from coming into 
 contact with the wine and imparting to it a disagreeable 
 taste. The sinking of the chapeau, however, is not the only 
 criterion of the moment at which the wine is to be drawn. 
 The vintager takes from time to time samples of the wine 
 from the well, by means of a small syphon, and tests them 
 with an areometer. This areometer is so arranged that its 
 zero indicates the point at which the sugar has completely 
 disappeared. The colour of the wine is also ascertained by 
 means of a small vessel called a tasse, embossed with hollows, 
 bumps, and ridges, and highly polished, so that the light can 
 be reflected through the wine in all directions. The wine is 
 not often drawn before it is of a sufficiently deep colour. 
 
 Now comes a phase in the production of Burgundy which 
 is unparalleled by any proceeding in any wine-producing 
 country. The fermentation is complete, and the wine has to 
 be drawn ; but it is desired to impart to the wine all the 
 colour that can be extracted from the husks. For this 
 purpose the husks which are collected in the chapeau have 
 to be thoroughly mixed with the alcoholic fluid. The top 
 of the chapeau, which is mostly a little rotten and sour, is 
 therefore taken off, and two or three men having laid aside 
 their clothes mount to the top of the chapeau. The chapeau 
 is so dense that the men can stand upon it for some time. 
 Each of the men works a hole with one foot through the 
 
440 VATTIXG AND FERMENTATION. [chap. 
 
 crust ; he then gets his other foot through, and gradually 
 succeeds with much trouble in causing his body to sink down 
 through the crust, into the wine below. While thus engaged 
 the whole chapeau is broken to pieces and worked together 
 with the wine. These men now work the whole of the murk, 
 and mix it thoroughly in all directions with the wine for 
 about half an hour. They then emerge from the liquid covered 
 with a dark red dye, and after wiping their bodies with the shirt 
 they pulled off, they put on a fresh shirt, and re-dress. After 
 the lapse of several hours the chapeau has again risen as 
 before. The men then again descend into the fluid and mix 
 it with the chapeau as before. During this operation the men 
 perspire profusely, not only from the intense labour which they 
 perform, but also from the poisonous effect of the carbonic 
 acid gas exhaled by the fermenting mass. They are mostly 
 deadly pale or blue, and pant and hang their heads over the 
 edges of the cuves, gasping for fresh air. We can approve this 
 method of effecting the foulage as little as the dirty methods 
 of treading the grapes which we have observed in the Gironde. 
 The fact that these operations are carried out on a very large 
 scale does not justify the introduction of disagreeable 
 associations, and we hope that our remarks may contribute 
 to effect a change for the better. In the smaller establish- 
 ments the grapes are trodden and then allowed to stand 
 in larger or smaller cuves until the fermentation is complete. 
 During fermentation the proprietors either cover the cuves 
 with a wooden cover, which they lute down by means of loam 
 and clay, or they put a layer of loam and clay, frequently 
 mixed with cow-dung to give it cohesion, upon the chapeau 
 itself. No wonder, then, that much of the wine that is made 
 in Burgundy has a strange, disagreeable taste and does not 
 keep ; that along this Cote there is made not only the best 
 wine in the world, but also the worst ; that in not a single 
 hotel or inn along the Cote a single bottle of Burgundian 
 wine fit for any traveller to drink is to be obtained. No 
 wonder that the Bourgogne wine is subject to those many 
 alterations which the Burgundy people, in their ignorance, 
 call "diseases," such as bitterness, an alteration almost 
 
Xin.] PRESSES AND PRESSING. 441 
 
 peculiar to this wine and not met with in any other class, 
 and that it requires an amount of " doctoring" claimed by no 
 other product. 
 
 The wine is next drawn by means of a syphon fixed in the 
 basket already mentioned. It is put into pieces of 228 litres 
 each. The after-fermentation is completed in the cellar, and 
 the wine is drawn in February and is ready for sale in March. 
 Common wine may be drunk at the end of the first year. 
 The good wines require four years in barrel and several years 
 in bottle, before they develop their full qualities ; but during 
 that time they give to the proprietors and the wine merchants 
 such an amount of trouble, that Burgundy may well be 
 called the wine merchant's " child of anxiety." 
 
 PRESSES AND PRESSING. 
 
 When the wine is drawn, the murk of course remains in 
 the cuve. This may be treated according to the process 
 of Petiot, which we have described, with sugar water, and 
 another wine may be extracted ; or it may be — and more 
 commonly is — put upon the press, and the wine thus obtained 
 is added to the other wine drawn by the syphon. The murk 
 pressed dry is then used for the purpose of making piquette 
 wine for the work-people of the estates. The presses in use 
 in Burgundy are the long beam presses, which we also still 
 find in Wiirtemberg and many other parts to which viti- 
 culture has come from Burgundy. The beams are of oak, 
 and are from 30 to 40 feet in length ; and their pressure 
 is exercised upon a space 12 feet square. The weight at 
 the end of the beam consists of an enormous wooden box 
 containing many hundredweights of stones ; but in some 
 places we also saw a great millstone suspended to a beam 
 50 feet long. The millstone was made to exercise its 
 weight by being drawn up by an enormous screw, which 
 passed through the end of the beam. In some parts the 
 presses are of the same shape as those commonly used in the 
 Champagne ; but since it has been found that the murk may 
 be pressed sufficiently by a power which is about one-tenth 
 of that which these enormous instruments can exercise, the 
 
442 
 
 AFTER-TREATMENT OF WINE. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 press commonly used in the Gironde, with one central screw, 
 gradually takes the place of these old, clumsy, and in many 
 cases but too efficient instruments. 
 
 AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE WINE IN BURGUNDY. 
 The wines are mostly drawn in small casks. But in large 
 properties — for example, the Clos Vougeot — the wine is laid 
 
 Fig. 69. — Section of a fufi cask witfi the ttibe-spigot inserted. On the right the tube- 
 spigot of its natural size. These spigots are manufactured at St. Claude, and are 
 termed guillettes. They are peculiar to the Jura. 
 
 in barrels containing from ten to thirty pieces, and is drawn 
 into small pieces only after it has been sold. The wine after 
 the first fermentation, and in either the large or the small 
 vessels, is mostly laid into the chais, and is not allowed to 
 come into the same room with older wine.s, because it is 
 supposed that the presence of young wine is detrimental to 
 old wine. Probably, however, convenience in the order of 
 things has more to do with this restriction than the supposed 
 danger. During the time that the wine is in the chais the 
 barrels are kept carefully filled to the bung iouilU) ; the can 
 used for this purpose is called a croc. The fining is effected 
 by means of white of e.^g. 
 
 The wines of Burgundy are sold by '&^z pike, the fciiilleiic, 
 the qnartant, or the boiiteille. The pike contains 228 litres; 
 the feuilldte, 114 litres; the qnartant, 57 litres; and the 
 
XIII.] 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF VINEYARDS. 
 
 443 
 
 bonteille 75 centilitres, or three-quarters of a litre. In the 
 case of great wines the price of the cask is always included 
 in that of the wine. Quotations are mostly loco Beaune. 
 
 AREA AND CLASSIFICATION OF THE VINEYARDS IN THE 
 ARRONDISSEMENT OF BEAUNE. 
 
 These vineyards are planted with Pineau vines exclusively, 
 and produce the so-called great wines of Burgundy. They 
 are situated in nineteen communes, arranged in the order in 
 which they occupy the C6te d'Or, beginning at Santenay and 
 ending at Dijon. It is calculated that on an average ot 
 years, each hectare planted with pineaus produces an annual 
 harvest of 15 hectolitres, while the common varieties of 
 vines produced from 50 to 60 hectolitres per hectare. The 
 data are extracted from the published statistical tables of 
 the Coinii^ d' Agriculture de l' Arrondissement de Beaune. 
 This publication also contains a good map of the Cote. 
 
 Names of Villages. 
 
 First Class. 
 
 Second Class. 
 
 Third Class. 
 
 Total. 
 
 
 Hectares. 
 
 Hectares. 
 
 Hectares. 
 
 
 Santenay 
 
 40 
 
 114 
 
 96 
 
 250 
 
 Chassagne . 
 
 
 
 
 
 76 
 
 103 
 
 81 
 
 260 
 
 Puligny . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 42 
 
 27 
 
 16 
 
 85 
 
 Meursault . 
 
 
 
 
 
 IIO 
 
 100 
 
 103 
 
 313 
 
 Auxey . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 none 
 
 23 
 
 19 
 
 42 
 
 Monthelie . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 53 
 
 30 
 
 96 
 
 Volnay . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 91 
 
 47 
 
 75 
 
 213 
 
 Pommard 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 "3 
 
 114 
 
 102 
 
 329 
 
 Beaune . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 270 
 
 120 
 
 143 
 
 433 
 
 Savigny . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 92 
 
 116 
 
 168 
 
 376 
 
 Pernand . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 26 
 
 33 
 
 39 
 
 98 
 
 Aloxe 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 92 
 
 36 
 
 72 
 
 200 
 
 Serrigny . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 25 
 
 Prissey 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 5 
 
 Premeaux . 
 
 
 
 
 
 34 
 
 20 
 
 3 
 
 57 
 
 Nuits . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 68 
 
 82 
 
 96 
 
 246 
 
 Vosne . . 
 
 
 
 
 
 48 
 
 44 
 
 75 
 
 167 
 
 Flagey 
 
 
 
 49 
 
 14 
 
 9 
 
 72 
 
 Vougeot . ... 
 
 54 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 58 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 THE WINES OF THE CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Topography. — Northern and southem districts. — Description of the route of a 
 tour. — Soil of the Champagne. — Preparation of the soil, planting of vineyards, 
 and cultivation of the vine. — Value of the vineyards. — Varieties of vines grovm 
 in the Champagne.^The vintage in the Champagne. — Pressing, fermenting, 
 cellaring and fining of the wine. — The drawing into bottles (tirage). — Fer- 
 mentation. — Casse. — Clearing of the bottles of yeast, or disgorging. — Liqueuring, 
 corking, and finishing. — Varieties and qualities of champagne, and quantity 
 and increase of its production. — Short history of champagne and its manu- 
 facture. — Scientific consideration of the champagne preparation process. — 
 Phenomena of absorption of gas. — Experimental determination of tension 
 or pressure in full champagne bottles. — Schinz's Manometer. — Treatment of 
 champagne claret for mousse. — Adjustment of acid and alcohol in claret. — 
 Changes in the physical condition of champagne by disgorging. — Quantity of 
 carbonic acid gas evolved from a bottle of sparkling Moselle. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 The Champagne is an ancient province of France, situated 
 under the 47th, 48th, and 49th degrees of latitude. At the 
 division of France into departments it was cut up into four 
 parts, which were respectively united with the departments 
 of the Ardennes, the Marne, the Upper Marne, and the Aube. 
 The wine to which this district owes its reputation is not 
 obtained in all these departments, but only in that of the 
 Marne, which includes the prefectures of Chalons-sur-Marne, 
 Epernay, Rheims, Saint-Menehould, and Vitry-sur-Marne. 
 These districts contain 19,589 hectares of vineyards, which 
 are situated on the territories of 453 communities, and belong 
 to 27,018 proprietors. An average vintage produces about 
 
CH. XIV.] TOPOGRAPHY OF THE CHAMPAGNE. 445 
 
 700,000 hectolitres. Of this, more than a quarter is drunk 
 by the inhabitants themselves. Now, although the five 
 districts yield wine, yet good wine is produced in only two 
 of them ; namely, the prefectures of Rheims and Epernay ; 
 and the manufactories of Champagne wine which are at any 
 distance from these districts are obliged to draw their main 
 supplies from them. The vineyards of the district of Rheims 
 are situated around the slopes of a wooded mountain which is 
 called the Bois et Montagne de Rheims. No vines grow in 
 the plain, and none grow above a certain height on the slopes 
 of the mountains. About one-half of the vineyards lie on 
 the north-eastern slope, and the other on the southern slope 
 of this little mountain. In the former are situated the 
 celebrated growths of Bouzy, of Verzy, and of Verzenay ; 
 and if the tourist who visits the Champagne starts from 
 Bouzy, and walks along the road northward and north-west- 
 ward, he will gradually pass all these celebrated places one 
 by one, and terminate his tour at Villers, a few miles south 
 of Rheims. The growths situated on the southern slope 
 include Ay, Haut Villers, and a number of other names which 
 we shall have to mention hereafter. These latter vineyards 
 extend from the slope of the mountain very near to the 
 border of the Marne, but the plain in which the Marne itself 
 flows is destitute of vines. The second district lies south of 
 the Marne, and its centre is Epernay. It is bordered on the 
 west by the forest of Anguien, the smaller one of Brugny, 
 and in the south by that of Vertus. It is one splendid 
 continuous vineyard, and, besides the growths of Epernay, 
 yields those of Cramant and Avize. 
 
 It is very difficult to explain the circumstances of situation 
 and climate to which the growths of the Champagne owe 
 their excellence. The soil is chalky, or sandy, or clayey. 
 The vegetation in the whole di.strict does not show any par- 
 ticular signs of luxuriance. There are no plants indicating 
 a warmer cHmate than that which the latitude would lead us 
 to suppose ; and the northern district, which slopes towards 
 the north-east in particular, would, on theoretical grounds, be 
 supposed to be very unfavourable to the growth of the vine ; for 
 
446 TOPOGRAPHY OF [chap. 
 
 • 
 throughout the world we find that the declivities of mountains, 
 sloping towards the south and exposed to the sun, are those 
 which produce the best wine, and that eastern and western 
 exposures are much less favourable, and northern declivities 
 almost unproductive. We have therefore to seek for an 
 explanation of the exception which the northern slopes of 
 the Champagne form to this rule, not in these situations 
 themselves, but in their relations to the neighbouring land. 
 To the north and east of the Bouzy and the Verzenay dis- 
 trict extends a great plain, over which the sun exercises a 
 free influence so as to warm the soil during the daytime to 
 a very high temperature. Much of this land is barren, and 
 bears only a few wretched pines. It is termed the "lousy 
 Champagne " {Champagne pouilleiise). Another part is culti- 
 vated, but no part of it is so covered by vegetation as to 
 prevent the sun from striking the soil. Now, it is observed 
 that during the whole of the summer months, from June to 
 September, the prevailing current of the air over this plain is 
 in the direction of the mountains of Rheims ; the air thus 
 passing abstracts heat from the soil, and thus, on reaching the 
 vines, not only adds to the direct effect of the sun upon them, 
 but is an auxiliary to their progress during the evening and 
 throughout the entire night. This phenomenon is, in our 
 opinion, fully sufficient to explain the magnificent develop- 
 ment which the vines and grapes attain round the whole of 
 that Cote. 
 
 It is now necessary for us to describe the topographical 
 circumstances more at length. The wine-producing part of 
 the Champagne from its extreme north, namely Rheims, to 
 the southernmost point, Vertus, has a diameter of about 45 
 English miles. The centre of the whole district is Epernay, 
 on the borders of the Marne. The slopes of Verzenay, 
 Verzy, Saint Basle, Villers, Marcmary, and Bouzy, are 
 gentle. They represent a series of rounded promontories 
 running out from the main mountain, the gentle valleys 
 between which, down to the beginning of the plain, are all 
 covered with vines. But the slopes of Mareuil, Ay, Dizy, 
 and Haut Villers are more rapid. From the heights of Ay, 
 
XIV.] THE CHAMPAGNE. 447 
 
 one can see the extent of the whole C6te of the Marne in 
 an easterly as well as a westerly direction, and also perceive 
 a great part of the vineyards south of Epernay. 
 
 The vineyards south of Epernay are not situated upon 
 any particular slope, but extend over an undulating plain, 
 southwards down to Vertus. From Pierry in the direction of 
 Montelon, Cuy, Cramant, Avize, Ojer, an-d Le Menil, down to 
 Vertus, the territory consists of an irregular accumulation of 
 small chalk hills or chalk mounds which slope towards the 
 east and do not give good exposures. Epernay has 6,000 
 inhabitants, its only trade being in wine. Rheims has 40,000 
 inhabitants, and, besides a remarkable trade in wine, has a very 
 important industry in spinning, weaving and dyeing, parti- 
 cularly of woollen goods. To the east of the Champagne wine 
 district, and almost out of it, lies ChAlons-sur-Marne, which 
 has 13,000 inhabitants and an important trade in wine. This 
 localization of the manufacture of champagne at Chilons is 
 due almost exclusively to the circumstance that the chalk 
 hills running along both sides of the valley, are composed of so 
 favourable a material that large cellars which do not require any 
 masonry to support them can be easily excavated. In con- 
 sequence, these chalk hills are pierced like honeycombs, and 
 millions of bottles of champagne are constantly stored in them, 
 and sent out of them to all parts of the world. In coming from 
 Rheims toward Sillery we observed a little plot of vineyards 
 said to be the celebrated Bruy^res de Mailly, which used to form 
 the pretext for the so-called Sillery wine. The chiteau of 
 Sillery formerly belonged to the widow of Marshal d'Estrees ; 
 and as she possessed some of the finest vineyards in Verzy 
 and Verzenay, and caused their products to be treated 
 with particular attention in her cellars at Sillery, this name 
 obtained a notoriety which its ten acres of vineyard actually 
 situated there could never have obtained for it. The chiteau 
 afterwards went into the possession of Madame de Stael ; — 
 later, into that of M. Ruinard de Brimont. Its present pro- 
 prietor is M. Jacqueson of Chalons. Not very far from this 
 little chateau is the estate of Romont, to which now a great 
 part of the Bruyeres and some of the vineyards at Verzenay 
 
448 DESCRIPTION OF A TOUR [chap. 
 
 belong, which yield the best so-called Sillery. This property 
 is owned by M. Paul Chandon of Epernay. 
 
 We started from Sillery and walked to Verzenay. The 
 road crosses the great canal repeatedly, then goes along it, 
 and suddenly turning to the right, tends towards the mountain. 
 From this road a most lovely view of Verzenay is enjoyed. 
 It is a bright village lying on the high part of the saddle 
 which two promontories projecting from the main mountain 
 form. Behind it is the green forest of the mountains of 
 Rheims. In front of it are open cultivated plains, and the 
 tops of the two hills which mark its lateral limits are sur- 
 mounted by two enormous windmills, which impart to the 
 beautiful view a kind of animation. The soft verdure of the 
 expanses of vineyards is most pleasing to the eye. Passing 
 through the vineyards and the village, we went across the 
 heights towards Verzy and St. Basle, the character of the 
 country remaining much the same ; but as the promontories 
 ran more towards the east, one of their declivities formed a 
 good southern exposure. The best among them were at 
 Contures and Minets. We everywhere perceived that the 
 lower part of the cotes bore the black Burgundy grape, while 
 in the higher parts towards the forest the white Burgundy 
 grapes were mostly grown, but in many parts of the vineyards 
 which we visited we saw a few white Burgundies among the 
 black. Having passed Verzy, we found an interruption in 
 the continuity of the vineyards of several miles in length ; 
 but, continuing our journey southwards, we came to Bouzy. 
 This is celebrated for its red wine, the so-called still red 
 champagne ; but many of the grapes grown there are also 
 used for making white champagne. The soil is chalky, has 
 a strongly red colour, and contains many pebbles. A few 
 miles south of Bouzy ends the viticultural district of the cote 
 of Rheims ; and the traveller passes ordinary fields towards 
 the Marne to enter upon the southern cdte at Mareuil. In 
 wandering through the splendid situations of Mareuil, Ay, 
 Dizy, and Haut Villers, we saw an uninterrupted, undulating, 
 splendidly green vineyard, wound like a mantle round the 
 slopes of the Rheims mountain. Below Haut Villers, which, 
 
XIV.] THROUGH THE CHAMPAGNE. 449 
 
 as its name indicates, is situated rather high, and nearly- 
 opposite Epernay, the mountain projects more towards the 
 Marne, corresponding to a similar projection northwards of 
 the mountain which runs behind Epernay towards Pierry. 
 By this arrangement a wide kettle-like valley is formed, in 
 which Epernay appears as the inhabited centre. Among the 
 hills which form the best situations from Mareuil to Haut 
 Villers, the mountain of Ay is distinguished by its form, 
 inclination, and exposure. It has a height of about 200 feet 
 and an inclination of about 20°, being exposed towards 
 the south-south-west. Upon its side lies the village of Ay, 
 which in its environs has many beautiful gardens and villas, 
 giving signs of opulence and well-being. Indeed, Ay is 
 the most lovely place in the whole Champagne. The cote 
 runs uninterruptedly by Dizy towards Haut Villers, a length 
 - of six English miles. Here mostly black Burgundy grapes 
 are grown. Most of the vineyards of Haut Villers lie below 
 the village and have a very strong inclination, that of the 
 C6te de Lerais amounting to 26°, and not being in- 
 terrupted by terraces. Seen from a little distance, the town 
 seems to crown a mount of vines. Its best situations are 
 called les quartikres and Hataut. From Haut Villers viti- 
 culture is continued along the right bank of the Marne to 
 Chatillon. Passing now to the south of the Marne, and 
 starting from Epernay to Pierry, we found that the exposure 
 of the vineyards became south-easterly. The neighbourhood 
 of Pierry has many vineyards, and the vegetation is here 
 much richer than in other parts of the Champagne. The 
 grapes are larger and blacker, so that one is almost tempted to 
 think they are another kind. In this part the variety called 
 meunier, or miller-vine, is often blended with others. It is 
 easily recognized by the white felt which covers the dark 
 green leaves, and gives them an appearance of having been 
 dusted with flour. The soil is here very stony, which seems 
 to be indicated by the name of the village. The stones are 
 mostly reddish pebbles, which lie in corroded lumps on and in 
 a light brown clayey soil. At Pierry the country becomes a 
 little more mountainous, and on passing over a considerable 
 
 G G 
 
45° 
 
 SOIL OF THE CHAMPAGNE. [cHAP. 
 
 chalk hill, the traveller finds near Cramant, and more 
 southerly, near Avize, a cote or series of hills, having an 
 easterly exposure and being covered with vines. This cdte 
 runs from Cramant, Avize, Ojer, and Le Menil up to Vertus, 
 where the vine cultivation terminates. The vineyards of this 
 cdte are frequently very flat, their inclination often amounting 
 to no more than 3°, and the greatest inclination never being 
 more than 15°, giving a character to the territory which one 
 may call that of an undulating plain. In this part mostly 
 white grapes are grown, and it is stated that the black 
 grapes do not succeed so well. Avize has from 700 to 800 
 acres of vineyards, among them one with a southern exposure, 
 and an inclination of 4°, called Goutte-d'or. This name is 
 very common in France, and everywhere signifies a place 
 where a good drop of wine is grown. 
 
 SOIL OF THE CHAMPAGNE. 
 The soil which interests us for our present purpose consists 
 mostly of chalk, silica, and clay, of which there are many 
 varieties. Where the chalk is not mixed with silica and clay, 
 it is barren, and the vegetation upon it very limited ; but as 
 soon as clay and silica appear, the vegetation becomes richer. 
 As the basis of the geological formation is chalk with 
 pebbles, the fructiferous covering of cultivated ground could 
 only have been formed by the super- addition of alluvial 
 masses ; and these we find, singularly enough, upon the high 
 points of the mountains. Much clay has been washed down 
 from them by the agency of the rain, and enormous quan- 
 tities of it are annually carried on the backs of donkeys or 
 mules, or in waggons and baskets, into the vineyards. One 
 particular kind of clay is termed cendrikre (ash soil). We 
 observed this black material in the neighbourhood of Verzy 
 and Verzenay, where a trade was apparently being carried 
 on in it, there being depositories at frequent intervals along 
 the road, and establishments where it was mixed with 
 manure and other matters, and formed into a kind of com- 
 post. We ascertained that it contained gypsum, iron, clay, 
 and sand. 
 
XIV.] 
 
 PLANTING AND CULTIVATION. 
 
 45' 
 
 PREPARATION OF THE SOIL, PLANTING OF VINEYARDS, 
 AND CULTIVATION OF THE VINE. 
 
 As the soil is light and easily dug round, the trenches are 
 carried to a depth of about 20 inches. Fallowing is not 
 usual. The plantation of vines is effected by putting blind 
 canes into the ground, called boutures. Sometimes young 
 vines of two or three years are taken to effect new plan- 
 tations. The established vines are every three years sunk 
 nto the ground, and one year's wood only is allowed to 
 project from the ground and to form the new vine. Every 
 vineyard, therefore, is a continuous nursery for the forma- 
 tion of young vines. It is to this circumstance, that no vine 
 which appears above ground has older wood than three 
 years, that the whole of the vineyards of the Champagne 
 owe their extremely juvenile aspect. In the M6doc one sees 
 vines perhaps 150 years old. In the district of Saint Emilion 
 and Sauternes one sees vines which are seventy or eighty 
 years old ; but in the Champagne vineyards all that appears 
 above ground is only one, two, or three years old. The 
 method of the Champagne viticulture might, therefore, be 
 called viticulture by constant reju- 
 venescence. After the fall of the 
 leaves, the vines are so cut that each 
 plant retains two — at the utmost 
 three — stumps or branches, which 
 carry from two to four eyes each. 
 To each such stump is placed a stick, 
 which is about two and a half or 
 three feet high above the ground. 
 If the vines are kept in lines, those 
 lines run in only one direction ; but 
 very frequently the vines are not 
 kept in lines in any direction. In 
 one direction they stand close against 
 each other, so that it is impossible to pass through them. 
 In another direction, however, a sometimes straight, some- 
 times very irregular passage for the work-people is left. 
 
 G G 2 
 
 Fig. 70. — View of vines in the vine 
 yards of the Ardennes, where pro- 
 vining is common. 
 
452 
 
 PROVINING AND LABOUR. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 In spring, before the eyes begin to push, the canes are tied 
 to the sticks. The new shoots are tied again to the sticks 
 shortly before blossoming time, and broken off at about half 
 the height of the stick ; and the vine is never under any 
 circumstances allowed to grow as high as the stick. All 
 double and lateral shoots, and branches which have no 
 blossoms, are broken off, whereby the sap is compelled to 
 direct itself mainly upon the blossoms. 
 
 The soil of the vineyards is treated three times a year, 
 and that mostly with a hoe with two prongs. It is kept very 
 
 Fig. 71.— Mode of provining in the Champagne. In the trench in the middle are seen 
 vines with partiaily exposed roots, ready for being sunlc. On the left vines project 
 from the re-arranged ground. 
 
 clean, and the whole is done by manual labour, thus forming a 
 marked contrast to the Gironde, where the principal labour is 
 done by the plough and animals. The manuring is effected by 
 means of stable manure and compost and the clay already 
 mentioned. Everything is carried to and from the vineyards 
 on the backs of donkeys ; and these donkeys and their 
 drivers give to the landscape at all active times a most 
 animated appearance. Each donkey carries two panniers or 
 s'de-baskets, which contain the manure or the compost or the 
 
XIV.] VALUE OF THE VINEYARDS. 453 
 
 Sticks, and take home the green leaves and branches of the 
 vines which have been cut off, and upon which the donkeys 
 and the other few animals which are kept in these parts are 
 to some extent obliged to live. These baskets also carry 
 home the vintage in a manner which we shall take an oppor- 
 tunity hereafter to describe. The vine-dressers in the 
 Champagne receive from is. 6d. to 2s. besides their food, 
 some brandy, and two bottles of wine per day. The work- 
 people do not go home at noon, but only in the evening. 
 The cultivation of an acre of vineyard costs from 160 to 
 240 francs. 
 
 VALUE OF THE VINEYARDS. 
 
 At Verzy, an acre of vineyard costs from 4,000 to 10,000 
 francs ; at Ay, 6,000 francs. In better situations, many an 
 acre has been sold at the price of 32,000 francs, which is 
 about 1,300/. sterling. Throughout the Champagne prices 
 are very high, because of the great subdivision of the 
 soil, which allows as many as 27,000 proprietors to par- 
 ticipate in the benefit of its cultivation by manual labour. 
 At Epernay, Pierry, and Haut Villers, the acre frequently 
 costs from 12,000 to 16,000. francs. At Avize the average 
 price is 4,000 francs, and the better situations fetch up 
 to 8,000 francs. 
 
 ■VARIETIES OF VINES GROWN IN THE CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 The dominating vine in the Champagne is the black 
 grape called plant dor^, which is the same as the black 
 Burgundy, there called noirien or pineau. The pineau is 
 sometimes distinguished from the noirien and called gros 
 plant dor^. Both varieties have similar leaves, the upper sides 
 of which are shiny, and have five lobes. But the leaves of 
 the small variety are deeper cut ; and its grapes are more 
 dense and rounded off, while those of the pineau are 
 somewhat less cramped. They always show a few green 
 unripe berries among the black ones, while the true plant, 
 dor^, becomes entirely black. The pineau is also more fruc- 
 tiferous, and gives strong large grapes. This latter sort is 
 
454 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES [CHAP. 
 
 found more commonly in the neighbourhood of Verzy. Near 
 Epernay, Haut Villers, and Ay, the plant dor^ is the general 
 vine. We have not been able to determine whether these 
 admitted varieties are true varieties or not. We have seen 
 the plant dor^ at Pierry with such thick berries, and so 
 glistening and black, that it seemed to be a very different 
 vine from the one at Verzy, and yet it was the same. 
 Those who have an opportunity of travelling in various 
 wine-countries and observing how the black Burgundy grape 
 changes its character according to situation, soil, or climate, 
 will be inclined to believe that there is only one black 
 Burgundy, and that its development into pineau or plant 
 dor^ is the effect of accidental circumstances. Next to 
 these black grapes, which yield the best white cham- 
 pagne, there is grown, in the neighbourhood of Epernay, the 
 meunier or miller. This gives a wine which is of inferior 
 quality, and does not keep so well ; but it bears more than 
 the plant dor^. When we visited the Champagne in the year 
 1867, we found that the pineau everywhere had suffered 
 greatly at various periods of the year, and yielded the most 
 indifferent harvests ; while the white Burgundy grapes, or 
 white Champagne vines, which stood mixed with the very 
 same pineaus which had suffered, were full of healthy, large, 
 and tolerably sweet grapes. Thus, to the cultivator of 
 vineyards the white Champagne grape is a kind of assurance 
 in bad years. The pineau failing, the white Champagne will 
 at least give him his house drink. This white Champagne 
 grape is called gros blanc and petit blanc, and also " the white 
 of good nature." If we have called it the Champagne gfape, 
 it is because people in the Champagne call it so. It is not 
 a particular species, but is identical with the white Burgundy 
 grape, from which, among others, the wine of Chablis is made. 
 It is reckoned that one-third of the whole vines in the 
 Champagne are of this white kind. It dominates in the 
 upper part of the Champagne, near Avize, Vertus, and 
 Cramant, as we have already seen. In the lower part of the 
 Champagne, from Ay to Rheims, the heights are planted with 
 this vine. The majority of the old vineyards are yet planted 
 
XIV.] GROWN IN THE CHAMPAGNE. ASS 
 
 half with white, and half with black grapes — a mixture which 
 was formerly supposed to be the most suitable to produce 
 great mousse in the wine. At the present time, however, the 
 champagne makers prefer to keep the varieties separate, 
 and to mix the young wine from white grapes with that 
 from black grapes only in spring, after the nature of their 
 separate fermentations is fully known. Here and there a 
 little gamuts is met with, which, as is well known, is the 
 dominant set of the MAconnais ; but this gives a sour wine 
 which is not suitable for the production of champagne. 
 Another white grape, which occurs here and there, is the 
 marmot vert, identical with the elbling of the Moselle and 
 the goix d' Orleans. A variety, moreover, is also met with 
 which the Germans call "Rulander," and which is nothing 
 but a black Burgundy which has become half white, and 
 hence is called smoked. Of the German varieties, the 
 Riessling, Traminer, Sylvaner, and Austrians, not a single 
 plant can be discovered throughout the Champagne. 
 
 On the whole, then, the character of the effervescent 
 Champagne wines is derived mainly from the black Burgundy 
 grape, — the small and large varieties, with which in good 
 years is mixed a certain quantity of white Burgundy. The 
 still champagnes are made — the red varieties from the black 
 Burgundy only, and the white variety (for example, the 
 excellent white still Verzenay) from the white Burgundy 
 only. 
 
 THE VINTAGE IN THE CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 As the greater part of the grapes which grow in the 
 Champagne are used for the production of red wine, and only 
 a small proportion for the production of effervescent wine, 
 and as the processes required for these particular products 
 differ from the beginning, the vintage of course has to be 
 arranged in accordance with the product which it is desired 
 to have. Of the 700,000 hectolitres of wine produced 
 annually in the department of the Marne, — a quantity which 
 calculated by bottles would amount to eighty millions, — only 
 about 180,000 hectolitres, or twenty-two millions of bottles, 
 
■^n 
 
 456 
 
 VINTAGE IN THE CHAMPAGNE. [chap. 
 
 are transformed into effervescent wine. That is a little more 
 than one-fourth of the whole production. The rest is 
 transformed to a small extent into white, but for the most 
 part into red, wine. We intend to treat in this place mainly 
 of the production of effervescent wine, inasmuch as the 
 production of red wine is identical in many respects with the 
 method employed in Burgundy, and therefore requires no 
 particular description. There is no vintage ban in the 
 Champagne. Every proprietor may go to his vineyard when 
 he pleases, and cut off his grapes in whatever manner 
 he pleases. The proprietors either take off the grapes 
 themselves, press them, and sell the wine in December or 
 January ; or they sell the grapes as they are on the vines, 
 which is called selling the harvest. This is done either 
 according to an estimate of the quantity per acre, or the 
 grapes are measured after having been cut, and the agreed 
 sum is paid for the grapes delivered. It requires a very 
 intimate knowledge of the proportion of grapes which is 
 necessary to produce a given quantity of wine if one intends 
 to buy grapes by measure, and not to buy must or 
 fermented wine. Thus, in the year 1867 the grapes were so 
 stalky and loose, and the solid matter in the berries was so 
 prevalent, that it was reckoned that from six to seven hecto- 
 litres would be required to make one hectolitre of wine, while 
 ordinarily, five or four and a half would be sufficient to 
 produce that quantity. The grapes are sold under all 
 circumstances by the hectolitre, and are, in measuring, 
 heaped up pyramidally above the brim. The grapes being 
 well ripe, and the weather sufficiently favourable, the pro- 
 prietors begin the vintage. As soon as this becomes 
 known a great many persons of both sexes flock from the 
 neighbouring country to the Champagne, and offer their 
 services for the vintage. Some bring small baskets into 
 which to put the grapes. Others bring donkeys and mules 
 with side-baskets for the purpose of carrying the grapes to the 
 villages. These persons generally assemble in the market- 
 place, or a large yard or other meeting-place, early in the 
 morning— before daybreak — and the proprietors send their 
 
XIV.] VINTAGE IN THE CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 457 
 
 agents there to hire them. The wages of course depend 
 upon the demand. In fine weather from i J francs to 2 francs 
 will have to be paid, and the persons will have to be kept 
 in food, and sometimes lodged. In bad weather, when 
 there is no demand, they have about i franc for the day's 
 pay. Labour is here treated more mercilessly than we have 
 ever seen it treated anywhere else. In return for this 
 treatment the labour revenges itself by striking and putting 
 up for higher wages when the circumstances are favourable. 
 A man with a donkey may receive 3 francs per day ; but if 
 the harvest be plentiful and few donkeys are at hand, from 5 
 to 6 francs per day will have to be paid. This trading begins, 
 afresh every morning during the whole time of the vintage, 
 for every contract of labour is available only for one day, 
 and when the sun goes down every one is free to turn where- 
 ever he pleases. The labourers having received their wages 
 go to the public-house and mostly are merry. Afterwards 
 they congregate in barns or rooms littered with straw, and sleep 
 for the night. The proprietor, or his vigneron or agent, having 
 engaged his troop of workmen, conducts them immediately to 
 his own yard, provides them with bread and brandy, and takes 
 them at break of day to the vineyard. It is preferred to cut 
 the grapes early in the morning, even though they should be 
 yet a little wet, because it is necessary to press them while 
 they are cool, to prevent the incipient fermentation from 
 extracting any colouring matter from the husk ; for although 
 made from black grapes, champagne is the more valuable the 
 more colourless it is. As the cutters proceed through the 
 vineyard, cutting down everything that is ripe, and leaving 
 only that which is absolutely useless, their baskets are, when 
 full, carried to the roadside. Here the cleaners sit. Each 
 basket as it arrives is emptied upon a large tray, and each 
 grape is now examined. All unripe, rotten, half-dried, worm- 
 eaten, or otherwise injured or unsound berries are cut out 
 by means of scissors, and only the perfect grapes or parts 
 of grapes are put into the principal panniers. All imperfect 
 grapes go into the refuse pannier. The moment that two 
 panniers are full they are loaded on the donkey's back and 
 
4s8 PRESSING^ FERMENTING, [chap. 
 
 carried home. The animation of a harvest-day in the 
 Champagne can hardly be imagined. Throughout all the 
 green undulating vineyards, hundreds and thousands of people 
 are dispersed ; all the roads are lined with the cleaners and 
 the heaps of grapes on trays and in panniers. Everywhere 
 donkeys stand to wait for new loads, or go in long strings 
 along the narrow paths or the driving roads. So peculiar is 
 this scene to the Champagne, that we have never observed 
 anything like it in any other of the wine-growing countries 
 which we have visited. The donkey is the symbol of the 
 vintage in the Champagne, as the great oxen are the symbol 
 of viticulture in the M^doc. Nowhere else have we seen 
 grapes carried home in baskets. The grapes of the M6doc, 
 for example, would lose half their juice if they were so 
 carried, as they go to pieces with their own pressure. In 
 our visits to the Champagne during harvest time, we were 
 much struck with the good-nature and hospitality of the 
 population. Of the hundreds and hundreds we met on the 
 road carrying home their produce, many would speak to us or 
 answer to our greeting, or would stop and invite us to taste 
 of their grapes — an offer which had not always the object of 
 effecting a sale. The value of a hectolitre of grapes in bad 
 years is S francs, — in middling years, such as that of 1867, 
 10 francs,— and in very good years rises to from 12 to 15 
 francs. The sale having been somehow concluded, the grapes 
 in the panniers are taken to the press. 
 
 PRESSING, FERMENTATION, CELLARING, AND FINING OF 
 
 THE WINE. 
 
 The presses in the Champagne are enormously strong 
 machines. The iron screws, of which there are two to each 
 press, of the size of a strong man's leg, are worked by means 
 of a toothed wheel, which is itself worked by a large upright 
 wheel, to which four or five men can apply their strength. 
 This great strength of the pressing apparatus is necessary, 
 because the grapes do not undergo any previous disintegra- 
 tion by treading with the feet, or by crushing with rollers, 
 or by such other means as are adopted in other parts. The 
 
XIV.] AND CELLARING OF THE WINE. 
 
 459 
 
 entire grapes, as they are emptied from the panniers, are 
 thrown on the press, and the press is the only agent that 
 extracts the wine. Amongst the qualities of must which run 
 from the press, the first is the best. This is called the " first 
 drop." In middling years this first drop is taken to make 
 the best qualities of wine. The press is adjusted three or 
 four times in this way : the cake of grapes is cut off at 
 the sides, and the cut-off parts are thrown upon the middle, 
 the top of the press is replaced, and force is again applied. 
 By this means all parts of the cake of grapes are gradu- 
 a:lly subjected to an equal amount of pressure. The 
 fourth drawing is generally a harsh wine, and can only in 
 good years be mixed with the first three drawings. The 
 management of these details is different with various 
 manufacturers, and depends upon the qualities of the grapes 
 they have, upon the nature of the wine they wish to produce, 
 and upon their own particular fancy. Forty baskets of 
 grapes are generally put upon the press at one and the same 
 time, and yield ten pieces of wine. The whole pressing of 
 one quantity has to be finished in two hours, for if it takes 
 a longer time the must will become coloured. The must 
 obtained by the three first pressings (called serres) is put 
 into a large vat standing by the side of the press, each vat 
 taking on an average not less than ten pieces. In these 
 vats (called cuves) the must is allowed to stand at rest from 
 six to twelve, or, if the temperature be cool, eighteen hours. 
 During this time it throws up a froth on the top, and deposits 
 a mucous matter at the bottom. From both of these 
 impurities it is entirely freed, and drawn immediately into 
 small barrels of two hectolitres each, there to ferment. It is 
 this first process of purification which is so important in the 
 production of champagne. By these means matters are at 
 once removed which are insoluble in the watery must, but 
 would become soluble in an alcohohc liquid, and which would 
 certainly change its taste, if not spoil it. Moreover, the 
 amount of nitrogenous matter is thereby reduced to a 
 minimum, and fermentation is consequently limited, so that 
 there is a' possibiUty of a small quantity of sugar escaping 
 
463 PRESSING, FERMENTING, [chap. 
 
 the effect of the first fermentation, and remaining in the 
 young wine to yield, by a second fermentation in the 
 bottle, the effervescence which is desired. This clearing of 
 the must is also frequently effected by filtration, particularly 
 in hot weather. The froth from the top is removed by 
 decantation. If the weather be hot, and neither of those pro- 
 cesses appears safe, it may be necessary to put the fresh must 
 into large casks which have been well filled with sulphurous 
 fumes, in order to stay the fermentation for a sufficient length 
 of time to allow of the clearing of the fluid ; but the simpler 
 way is the more common, and the artificial means have only 
 rarely to be applied. The residue which remains in the 
 press, after the wine has been drawn off, is generally used for 
 the production of red wine, the must from white grapes being 
 thrown upon the cake from the black grapes, and allowed 
 to ferment with it in large vats. This red wine is used only 
 by the people in the Champagne itself. It possesses no 
 exporting qualities, and is too low to be transported far even 
 in France itself 
 
 The red wine, when fully fermented, is drawn, and the 
 murk is put upon the press. According to the greed of the 
 proprietor, he spends more or less trouble upon the pressing. 
 At last there remains nothing but a hard cake of stalks, 
 husks, and kernels [marc), which is bought by distillers, who 
 distil therefrom what little brandy may remain in them. 
 Sometimes a third wine is made out of them. They are put 
 into the aives ; water is poured upon them, and allowed to 
 stand over them from eight to fourteen days ; and ultimately 
 a dilute light red liquid is obtained, which the people call 
 piquette. Of such piquette the whole population drink ad 
 libiUim. When the must has been put into the barrels, they 
 are carried, either in a fermenting state or when the first 
 fermentation is just over, to the cellars of the champagne 
 manufacturers, or they go into the cellars of the proprietors, 
 supposing them not to be manufacturers. Many manufacturers 
 have these cellars immediately by the side of their press- 
 houses. The barrels are laid in row?, and fermentation is 
 allowed to proceed. In carefully-conducted establishments, 
 
XIV.] AND CELLARING OF THE WINE. 461 
 
 the first fermentation is so effected that the barrels are filled 
 to the bung, in order to give to the wine an opportunity of 
 purifying itself by casting out the upward yeast. All these 
 operations of ridding the wine of the nitrogenous matters 
 tend to finish it earlier and to secure its perfect clearness. 
 Fermentation over, the wine is allowed to lie quiet until the 
 weather has become quite cold, generally until the beginning 
 or middle of December. It is then mostly clear, and is 
 drawn from the lees. Now again a period arrives at which 
 commerce becomes enlivened, for the wine has now declared 
 itself to a certain extent as to its quality, and purchases can 
 be made with more safety, but of course of a less speculative 
 kind, and at higher prices. Those who had bought wine 
 during the vintage, and left it in the cellars of the proprietors, 
 now carry it away to their own champagne-making establish- 
 ments. It is nov/ that the champagne-making houses send 
 their agents about in order to acquire those particular wines 
 of which they stand in need for mixing with the qualities 
 which they may have themselves produced. This mixing is 
 one of the most important operations in the production of 
 champagne. Every manufacturer is, of course, obliged to 
 produce the varieties which the public demand. The public 
 demand Sillery or Epernay — others Ay ; this merchant 
 wants Mareuil — the other Dizy ; and there is hardly a name 
 of any notoriety that has not its particular admirers. The 
 object of all champagne houses is now to produce, by the art 
 of mixing, wines which shall be as similar as possible to 
 those of which they are to bear the names. When these 
 necessary ingredients have been brought together, they are 
 mixed by vatting, and then drawn off again into the barrels 
 for further treatment. 
 
 The next step is the fining of the wine. This is done by 
 means of isinglass. The isinglass is beaten with a hammer 
 and placed in a vessel, and wine is poured over it. After 
 twenty-four hours it has swelled to a large jelly, and it is quite 
 transparent. The whole mass is then kneaded with the hands 
 until there are no more resisting particles in it. Now, gradu- 
 ally, as much wine is added as is necessary to form a semi- 
 
462 FINING. [CHAP: 
 
 fluid paste. It is then allowed to stand for twenty-four hours 
 more, when it has again formed a firm jelly. This adding 
 of wine, and kneading with the hands, is continued every 
 twenty-four hours until the isinglass does not swell any more, 
 or, as it is technically expressed, " ceases to grow." The fining 
 is now ready. It is passed through a tammy, and the necessary 
 quantity of it is then put into each barrel and mixed with the 
 wine by strong agitation. It is generally observed to make 
 the wine clear in from twelve to fourteen hours. loO pieces, 
 or little barrels, require a pound of isinglass, provided the 
 wine was pretty clear when it was put into the barrels ; but 
 in case the wine was thick, each barrel requires a quarter 
 of an ounce of isinglass, which is about double the quantity 
 first mentioned. Throughout the whole Champagne these 
 operations of fining are effected in the small barrels. The 
 reason for this is undoubtedly the facility with which the 
 cold can penetrate these barrels, for it is essential that, at 
 the time of the drawing and fining, the wine should be as 
 cold as possible, and should have been cold for some 
 time in order to completely interrupt all fermentation, and 
 thereby render the wine as bright as possible. The 
 cold in these cellars may be 5° below freezing-point, but 
 not lower, inasmuch as the wine would then begin to freeze. 
 The word cellar or cellier in the Champagne therefore 
 indicates a kind of building which in the M^doc is called 
 chais; that is, a shed above ground, with doors and small 
 windows, and a ceiling constructed entirely of wood, and 
 which therefore is only capable of keeping out the main part 
 of the cold in winter, and the principal heat in the summer, 
 but still offers great fluctuations of temperature. After the 
 fining has been applied to the wine, the latter is allowed to 
 rest for a week or a fortnight, and then tested as to its 
 clearness. If it is not sufficiently bright, it is allowed to 
 remain another fortnight. If a month's rest has not made it 
 clear, it has to be again drawn off the lees and fined a second 
 time. During these finings and drawings much sulphur 
 vapour is used for the purpose of making the wine as pale as 
 possible. 
 
XIV.] DRAWING INTO BOTTLES. 463 
 
 THE DRAWING INTO BOTTLES (" TIRAGE "), 
 The manufacturer provides himself with bottles during the 
 summer, and has them sent from the glass manufactory in 
 large waggon loads. According to the size of the manufac- 
 turing house, from 50,000 to 300,000 bottles may be brought in 
 at a time. After delivery the bottles are tested as to strength. 
 This test consists simply of an experienced person striking 
 two bottles with their sides against each other ; and from the 
 sound which they cause he professes to be able to tell the size 
 of the glass and its temper. Those bottles which are not 
 perfectly annealed break at once by the concussion ; those 
 which have blisters and galls are rejected. The bottles are 
 not subjected to any physical test to ascertain their resistance 
 to internal pressure. The bottles which are not of good Shape 
 are sold to the country people at a reduced price, and it is 
 partly owing to this fact that all the wine which one gets 
 throughout the Champagne, in the small public-houses and so 
 forth, or sees among the small vignerons, is contained in the 
 ordinary champagne bottles. It is sometimes necessary to 
 reject 10 per cent, of all the bottles sent. Those which are 
 approved are now washed with water, the internal rubbing 
 being effected by a revolving brush, which is turned by means 
 of a fly-wheel set in motion by the foot. They are then 
 allowed to stand for .some time inverted, in order that all the 
 water may drain out. They are then rinsed with spirit of 
 wine, closed with an old cork, and kept thus ready for use. 
 If the spirit were not used they would possibly become mouldy 
 inside, and communicate a taste to the wine. If they were 
 not stoppered, dust would enter and become inconvenient. On 
 each bottle that enters his yard, the champagne manufacturer 
 pays seven sous, or a little more than three pence, to the State ; 
 of all bottles which break at the proof, or subsequently during 
 the fermentation of the champagne, he preserves the neck, and 
 when he pays his next tax he exhibits these characteristic pieces 
 of broken bottles to the tax-gatherer, who thereupon makes an 
 allowance for such broken bottles, and immediately has these 
 fragments entirely destroyed. The hundred bottles cost at 
 
454 CORKING AND BINDING. [chap. 
 
 the glass manufacturer's 28 francs. The wines which have 
 been prepared as we have above described, mixed, and sorted, 
 are drawn into bottles without any further addition, the bottles 
 being filled to a height of about two inches from the top of 
 the neck. In this respect the manufacture of champagne 
 differs from that of sparkling hock and moselle. In the 
 manufacture of the latter, young wine, to the extent of one-half, 
 is mostly mixed with old wine ; and as the Rhenish wines after 
 their fermentation and ageing no longer contain any sugar, 
 it is necessary to add an amount of sugar, so that the whole of 
 the sugar contained in the wine to be fermented is 2 per cent. 
 This presence of 2 per cent, of sugar the manufacturer of 
 champagne mostly secures by means of mixing young wines 
 only. The filled bottles pass now into the atelier, and there 
 through the hands of several workmen. The first of them 
 corks the bottle, the second ties the cork down with string ; 
 and again a third ties it with wire. One man hands the 
 bottles to be corked, and another man takes them away, 
 and consequently the atelier consists of five men. It 
 would be difficult to describe the details of the corking 
 machine. Suffice it to say that it consists mainly of two 
 parts, one of which compresses the cork laterally, and the 
 other sends it to the extent of one-half into the neck of 
 the bottle. The corking machine is the better, the more 
 accurately and straightly it fits the cork into the opening. 
 It is very singular that this corking is generally effected much 
 better in the manufactories of efTervescent hock and moselle 
 than in the great majority of the manufactories of cham- 
 pagne. This work is effected with such celerity that an 
 atelier of five workmen may bottle and cork from twelve 
 hundred to fifteen hundred bottles daily, or with such 
 rapidity that within one minute two bottles pass through all 
 the hands. As the large houses every year fill several 
 hundred thousand bottles, one can easily see that each of them 
 has to employ several ateliers for about a month in order to 
 obtain their supply. The corks have a very high price, 
 which has now risen to 80, 90, or 100 francs the thousand. 
 It is not advisable for the champagne merchant to save in the 
 
XIV.] FERMENTATION, CASSE. 465 
 
 article of corks. They are cylindric, two inches long, and 
 one inch in diameter. Few persons have any conception of 
 the compressibility of cork until they have seen it used in 
 the champagne manufactory. As soon as the bottles are 
 filled they are carried into the cellars or caves, and there put 
 up in piles of from 20 feet to 50 feet in length, and 4 feet to 
 5 feet in height. As they are put up two to four deep, a pile 
 has a breadth of from 3 feet to 4 feet. They are held together 
 by thin wooden laths. The construction of such a pile is 
 as firm as if it was held together with iron bands, and yet 
 any bottle of the outer rows may be taken out from any part 
 and put back without moving the rest of the bottles. The 
 taking out of bottles here and there is necessary for the 
 purpose of examining whether the fermentation has produced 
 a sufficient amount of effervescence. As the temperature of 
 March passes into that of summer, the temperature of these 
 cellars where the bottles are kept of course also rises, and the 
 wine contained in the bottles gradually begins to ferment. As 
 fermentation proceeds the wine gets turbid. It shows when 
 shaken that it is effervescent, and it increases in bulk. Owing 
 to this increase, the empty space which was left in the bottle 
 gradually disappears, and now begins the critical time in the 
 process. Many bottles burst owing to the pressure of the gas 
 simply. Of those bottles in which the air space disappears, 
 most break. Other bottles begin to leak, and a vast amount of 
 wine is lost. It is now time for the manufacturer to consider 
 whether he will uncork his bottles, and thereby go to some 
 expense for work and corks, or whether he will mitigate the 
 fermentation by taking the bottles into a cooler cave, or let 
 the bottles take their chance where they are. When the 
 breakage or casse does not exceed 8 per cent, by August, no 
 particular measures are taken. If the casse amounts to 15 
 per cent., measures are mostly adopted ; and if it amounts to 
 20 per cent., the wine must be opened. Bottles where such 
 an amount of casse has taken place have to be handled 
 with great care, inasmuch as they may burst in the hands of 
 the workmen and injure them severely. Careful proprietors 
 therefore cause their workmen to wear ma.sks of wire and 
 
 H H 
 
466 , DISG.ORGING. [chap. 
 
 gloves during the occupation of opening. Towards the 
 months of September or October, when the temperature falls 
 again, the wine comes to rest, and the breakage almost 
 entirely ceases. In our visits to some of the large establish- 
 ments we found that the reports from the explosion of bottles 
 at the end of the summer were yet unceasing. There was a 
 constant succession of sounds, as if from the discharge of 
 small air-guns or pistols, which trembled through the vaults, 
 succeeded by the sound of falling fragments of glass and 
 flowing liquid. It is very singular that the champagne manu- 
 facturers have no instruments by means of which they could 
 observe the amount of pressure which is developed inside 
 the bottles. There have been devised in France, as well as 
 in Germany, most accurate pressure gauges, which, if applied 
 to a dozen bottles in each stack, would constantly inform the 
 manufacturer of the amount of pressure which the average 
 of his bottles undergo ; but in our visits to the caves we have 
 nowhere seen any such instrument employed. To our own 
 mind this is a regrettable want of care, which must necessarily 
 increase the price of champagne ; for although the whole 
 of the casse might not thereby be saved, we are, nevertheless, 
 certain that it could be reduced to a minimum, and need 
 never exceed 5 per cent. We shall have an opportunity of 
 describing these instruments and their uses. 
 
 CLEARING OF THE BOTTLE.S OF YEAST, OR DISGORGING. 
 
 When the fermentation is finished, and the breakage has 
 nearly ceased, the stacks of bottles are rummaged. All the 
 broken bottles are removed, the bottles which have leaked are 
 also put aside, and only those which have kept in good con- 
 dition are re-stacked. They are then allowed to lie at rest 
 until the whole of the yeast has settled on the lower side of 
 the bottle. In that state the wine remains until it has to be 
 got ready for sale. It is best to leave the wine in that hnite 
 or unfinished state. The preparations for clearing the wine 
 consist in putting the bottles in rows, with the necks down- 
 wards, on long benches which are pierced with holes. A 
 
XIV.] LIQUEURING, CORKING, ETC. 467 
 
 workman now gives to the bottle a skilful turn, and thereby 
 eflFects the loosening of the deposit of yeast from the side of 
 the bottle, and causes it to sink down upon the cork. This 
 has to be repeated until the whole deposit has been worked 
 down and the wine is quite clear. This operation lasts for 
 some weeks. The wine is then quite clear, and the whole of 
 the deposit rests upon the cork in a layer, in the worst case, 
 of an inch thick, but in the best cases which we have observed 
 the deposit was hardly perceptible. 
 
 The bottles are now carefully carried from the cave where 
 they have hitherto been resting, to the atelier, there to undergo 
 the process of disgorging. The disgorger (as the person is 
 called who removes the yeast from the bottle) seizes a bottle, 
 cuts the string and wires, and expels the cork, by exercising a 
 slight lever action with a bent iron or hook. When the cork 
 is three-quarters out, the bottle, which was until now inverted, 
 is turned neck upwards. The cork is discharged with a loud 
 report, and the froth, which immediately rises and is partially 
 projected, carries with it all the yeast and impurity collected 
 in the neck. In order to completely clean the bottle, the dis- 
 gorger introduces his finger and loosens any matter which 
 may adhere to the glass, and this is also carried out of the 
 bottle by the froth which still rises. Immediately after this 
 operation is completed, he places his thumb upon the mouth 
 of the bottle, and seizes an old cork to stopper it, or places 
 it on a machine provided with fixed corks, which are pressed 
 down on the mouth of the bottle by a strong spring. The 
 bottle thus prepared now passes into the hands of the 
 liqueur man. 
 
 LIQUEURING, CORKING, AND FINISHING. 
 And here we must introduce an episode, and describe the 
 naUire of liqueur. Champagne prepared in the manner above 
 described is quite dry, that is to say it contains no sugar what- 
 ever perceptible to the taste. The operation of liqueuring 
 consists of imparting to it a certain amount of sugar corre- 
 sponding to the taste of the consumer, and also giving to wine 
 which has not had time to mature a certain finish and flavour 
 
 H H 2 
 
468 LIQUEURING, CORKING, [chap. 
 
 by mixing with it a small quantity of good old well-matured 
 and fine-flavoured wine. Hence the champagne merchant who 
 makes fine champagne, provides himself with excellent wines 
 for the purpose of making these liqueurs, and in all these cases 
 the liqueur consists of a mixture of pure cane-sugar and wine 
 only. But the cheap kinds of champagne, not admitting of 
 the introduction of expensive wines, or requiring the addition 
 of alcohol on account of the natural want of that ingredient, 
 are not treated with wine, but with a liqueur consisting of 
 wine, spirit of wine, and sugar. It is impossible to give 
 accurate descriptions of these liqueurs and their chemical 
 composition, because they vary with most manufacturers, and 
 are varied for the purpose of treating each particular lot of 
 champagne. They have to be made stronger or weaker 
 according to the nature of the wine, and the year from 
 which it is derived, and to be added in larger or smaller 
 quantities according to the taste of the consumer. Thus, for 
 England, strong-bodied wines are taken, and little liqueur 
 is added, because in England the dry and semi-dry qualities 
 of champagne are generally preferred. Some qualities of 
 champagne, however, which are imported into England, are 
 made with much liqueur, and the acidity in them is pressed 
 down by mixing to a very small amount, so that they taste 
 more like sugar water than a refreshing wine. For Russia 
 the wine is made similarly sweet and flat. It is made 
 sweetest for Austria and some parts of Germany, where the 
 taste of the people is so far peculiar that they eat sweet 
 comp6tes with their roasted meats. In France, champagne is 
 taken with the second part of the dinner, or with the sweets, 
 and there a nice medium of liqueur is commanded. It will 
 thus be seen that the quality of liqueur, and the quantity 
 which is added to each lot of champagne, is decided entirely 
 by the tastes of the various consumers. The liqueur is 
 kept in the atelier in a large can attached to a machine 
 which is under the guidance of the liqueur-man. A certain 
 glass measure, which is in communication with the machine, 
 measures off the amount of liqueur which is to enter into each 
 bottle; but as the bottles are not all equally full, the filling in 
 
XIV.] AND FINISHING. 469 
 
 of the liqueur has to be preceded by an adjustment of the 
 quantity of champagne contained in them, and this again is 
 effected by a most ingenious machine, which allows the cham- 
 pagne in two bottles to be poured backwards and forwards 
 from the one into the other under pressure, so that no portion 
 of the mousse is lost. The moment that this adjustment of 
 the quantity of wine is effected, the measured quantity of 
 liqueur is allowed to flow into the bottle, and the bottle is 
 handed over to the corker. It is again corked in the manner 
 we have before described, and handed to a njan who ties down 
 the cork with string, and afterwards to another who binds it 
 down with wire. Thereupon the operation of disgorging and 
 liqueuring is completed. The bottles are now washed exter- 
 nally and allowed to dry. They are next inspected one by 
 one as to their clearness, and, if passed, covered with the usual 
 tinfoil or bronzefoil. The label which the customer desires is 
 attached, and the bottles are wrapped in paper and packed in 
 straw, in boxes, or baskets. To England, champagne is mostly 
 sent in boxes containing three dozen or six dozen bottles. To 
 America, it is usually sent in baskets of 25, 50, 75, or 100 
 bottles. To Japan and the East it is mostly sent in baskets 
 of one dozen. To many parts of France also champagne is 
 sent in baskets of twenty-five bottles ; but latterly that which 
 was formerly a distinctive demand of each country has changed 
 very much, and cases of one dozen, two dozen, and three 
 dozen, and baskets of all sizes and with all numbers of bottles, 
 are sent, according to the demand, to various parts of the 
 world. The practice of most champagne makers now consists 
 in keeping their wine in an unfinished condition as long as 
 possible, as wine which has been so lying is not so liable to 
 form a second deposit after the first disgorging. It sometimes 
 happens, however, that in spite of all precautions, the wine 
 which has been disgorged or liqueured undergoes a slight 
 second fermentation, and thereby becomes turbid again. It 
 has then, of course, to be disgorged a second time, after the 
 yeast contained in it has previously been deposited upon 
 the cork in the manner already described. If the wine has 
 become turbid without any fermentation, this second disgorging 
 
470 VARIETIES OF CHAMPAGNE [chap. 
 
 involves the loss of much mousse, and the wine ceases to 
 be niousseiix and becomes cremant. Formerly, many cham- 
 pagne manufacturers covered the stopper and neck of the 
 bottle with resin or wax. This has mainly the object of 
 protecting the cork against the corrosive action of air and 
 moisture, and against the attacks of worms and beetles. It 
 has been found that the covering of tinfoil is just as efficacious 
 as this waxing, and is far preferable, for on opening a bottle 
 with a waxed cork a great deal of dust is produced, which it is 
 hardly possible to prevent from falling into the champagne 
 as it is poured from the bottle. It is only a silly affectation of 
 some of the Paris dining establishments of the Palais Royal 
 and of the large hotels to continue to have some particularly 
 bad qualities of their champagne waxed wijji resin, with which 
 small fragments of ground tinsel are mixed. 
 
 VARIETIES AND QUALITIES OF CHAMPAGNE, AND QUANTITY 
 AND INCREASE OF ITS PRODUCTION. 
 
 Of the bottled wines which are produced in the Champagne, 
 four varieties have to be distinguished. 
 
 Of these, the first is champagne non mousseux. This is wine 
 which has been fully fermented, fined, drawn into bottles, 
 stoppered in the usual manner of the mousseux wines, tied, 
 and allowed to rest a long time. We shall afterwards see 
 that this is the original method of making wine in Champagne, 
 and that out of this arose the discovery of the mousseux. Of 
 such non mousseux we have tasted many qualities, red as well 
 as white, made from black grapes purely, and white grapes 
 purely ; and we can affirm that these wines have, if properly 
 matured, striking peculiarities and beauties of taste and 
 flavour. 
 
 The second variety is that moderately sparkling wine called 
 cremant, which derives its name from its faculty of forming a 
 slight cream of effervescent bubbles upon its surface when it 
 is poured into the glass. 
 
 The third variety is mousseux. This wine, on the bottle 
 being opened, projects the cork with an audible report, and 
 begins to rise gently over the margin of the bottle. , 
 
xiv.;| DETERMINED BY MOUSSE. 471 
 
 The fourth variety is grand moussetix, which projects the 
 cork with a loud report, and immediately overflows from the 
 bottle. When poured out, the foam which it produces also 
 rises over the edge of the glass when only a small quantity is 
 poured out. 
 
 By careful e;cperiments, conducted with the aid of mano- 
 meters of various constructions, it has been found that a 
 champagne which contains less than 4 atmospheres, is not 
 any longer saleable as mousseux or grand mousseiix. From 4 
 to 4J atmospheres constitute mousseux ; 4^ to S atmospheres 
 grand mousseux. From 5 J to 6 atmospheres are the greatest 
 amount of gas ever met with ; and if the pressure in any 
 bottle reaches 7 or 8 atmospheres, the bottle usually bursts. 
 
 We have yet to distinguish between ordinary wines, fine 
 wines, and cabinet wines ; between pale wines, reddish wines, 
 the so-called ceuil de perdrix, and those rather uncommon red 
 varieties which are sometimes made as articles of curiosity. 
 
 The prices of champagne begin at \6s. the dozen bottles at 
 the place of manufacture. Some varieties are sold in London, 
 in bond, at ijs. a. dozen. Much is bought at 22s., and can be 
 sold in London, duty paid, at 28^-. per dozen. The price of 
 40s. a dozen should give to the consumer a good class of wine; 
 and the highest price he should pay for best should be from 
 65J. to /OJ. Anything beyond is a fancy price, for which, 
 if it is to be justified, good special grounds ought to be given. 
 Champagne must be kept a few months after liqueuring, in 
 order that the wine and the liqueur may be perfectly amalga- 
 mated, and the new flavour become a little developed ; but 
 after a year it has reached its perfection, and does not improve 
 after two or three years. It becomes a little etheric, but it 
 loses mousse, and becomes cr^mant ; and the dangers from 
 the stoppers leaking increase with the time during which the 
 pressure has been exercised upon them. 
 
 The modes of drinking effervescent wines are very different 
 in various countries. Costly champagne is- always a luxury, 
 but the cheaper varieties of champagne need not be so 
 considered if properly used. A sound, rather dry wine, in 
 price from 28i-. to 36^. a dozen, is one of the most useful 
 
472 VARIETIES OF CHAMPAGNE. [chap. 
 
 dietetic remedies for impaired digestion which can be imagined. 
 The ordinary idea that champagne cannot be drunk except im- 
 mediately after the opening of the bottle, and that it becomes 
 flat after standing twenty-four hours, is erroneous. Those 
 who would enjoy a bottle of champagne on three consecutive 
 days, should obtain one of those elegant contrivances in the 
 shape of a pierced corkscrew, with a little tap attached, or a 
 peculiar india-rubber screw stopper. The pierced corkscrew 
 hardly requires any explanation. Once inserted into the cork, 
 the whole of the wine can be withdrawn from the bottle, ad 
 libitum, in mouthfuls, or half glasses, or entire glasses, a matter 
 which may be of some importance to invalids desirous of prac- 
 tising economy. The screwed india-rubber stopper is, however,' 
 less liable to derangement, and serves almost the same purpose 
 as the other instrument. We can affirm that these appliances 
 fully accomplish their object, but even where it is desired to 
 dispense with them, the cork which has been drawn from the 
 bottle may be so cut with a sharp knife, as to closely fit the 
 neck of the bottle again ; and if it be then well tied down, the 
 champagne will remain sparkling for two or three days, even 
 if the bottle be opened once or twice in each day. The glasses 
 from which champagne was originally drunk, were high, 
 narrov/, and conical. Latterly, the very reverse shape of 
 glass has become the fashion. We are not able to assign 
 any particular reason for the change. We consider a glass 
 of conical shape, seven inches high, to be the most suit- 
 able. These glasses must be hollow to their very base, and 
 the base itself must be rather large and heavy, so that the 
 glass may not be easily upset. In these glasses the sparkling 
 is certainly best observed, and we believe that no little of the 
 attractiveness of champagne rests in its constant sparkling 
 activity. We have also observed wide shallow glasses, which 
 were provided with a hollow stem, so that the sparkling could 
 be perceived proceeding from the bottom of the stem, and 
 rising into and through the shallow part. These glasses are 
 more artful than practical. For the rest, champagne tastes 
 well when drunk from any glass ; and we ourselves prefer the 
 tumbler, for ordinary use, to any other vessel. 
 
XIV.] SHOKT HISTORY OF CHAMPAGNE. 473 
 
 SHORT HISTORY OF CHAMPAGNE AND ITS 
 MANUFACTURE. 
 
 We abstain from giving an historical account of viticulture 
 in the Champagne previous to the discovery of the mousseux ; 
 suffice it to say that the Champagne has produced red and 
 white wine ever since the time of the Roman Emperor 
 Probus, A.D. 280, to whom, it is said, the Gate of Mars, still 
 extant at Rheims, was dedicated by' his troops. It v/as not 
 until the end of the seventeenth century that the manufacture 
 of wine was so perfected that the production of mousseux for 
 a trade was thought of It appears from the historical notes 
 contained in the work of M. Perrier, that there was at the 
 Abbey of Haut Villers a monk of the name of Dom Perignon, 
 who managed the cellars of the Abbey from the year 1670 to 
 the year 17 1 5. It is related that he had an extremely 
 delicate palate, and that he could so distinguish the grapes 
 as to be able to tell the vineyards from which they came. 
 It is recorded that he died in the year 1715, and the record 
 states that he had administered the affairs of the Abbey to the 
 greatest satisfaction of all his brethren. One of his successors 
 in the administration, Grossard, states that Perignon was the 
 inventor of effervescent wine. Grossard had in his possession 
 all the documents of the Abbey up to the time of the French 
 Revolution, and he asserts that before Perignon the art of 
 stoppering bottles with corks was not known, the only 
 stoppers which were used being bundles of hemp dipped in 
 oil, a mode of stoppering which we know to be used in some 
 parts of Italy even nowadays. It is very difficult to decide 
 whether the introduction of corks for the stoppering of bottles 
 led immediately to the discovery of the making of effervescent 
 wines or not. It appears from a little book of the year 17 18, 
 which has been examined by M. Perrier, that white effer- 
 vescent wine had been made already twenty years previously, 
 which would put the making of the first effervescent wine to 
 the year 169S, and such wine was called f^iillant, "stopper- 
 jumper," or "cork-jumper," and "devil's wine." A great 
 passion for this wine soon arose, but it is reported that in 
 
474 SHORT HISTORY OF CHAMPAGNE. [chap. 
 
 the year 17 15 the passion for this new drink had rather 
 diminished, for it appears from this pamphlet of 171 8 that its 
 production was then kept secret, and some persons believed, 
 says the writer, that the effervescence was caused by drugs 
 which were put in, and others supposed that the wine had 
 been put in the bottles at a particular phase of the moon, 
 which caused it to become effervescent. The writer main- 
 tains that he possessed the true secret of the manufacture, 
 and that that secret had been given to him by Dom Perignon 
 on his death-bed. If champagne was first made by Perignon, 
 it was also first made at Haut Villcrs, for the whole of the 
 activity of P6rignon referred to the produce of that Abbey. 
 The introduction of corks for stoppering bottles of young 
 wine, and tying them down, would, under all circumstances, 
 engender the discovery of mousseux wines. In fact, the 
 production of mousseux wines is not at all an uncommon 
 accident on the Rhine wlien wine is bottled too early. 
 The wine then begins to ferment at every rise of temperature, 
 and in fact is dry, effervescent wine ; but as that article 
 is not desired, such wine has to be poured back into the 
 barrels and to be there tended until it is again free from 
 carbonic acid, clear, and has recovered its flavour. The 
 discovery of effervescent wine we take, therefore, to be the 
 result of a common accident in parts where the producers of 
 wine are, either from the small quantity of their produce 
 or from other reasons, obliged to draw off young wine into 
 bottles ; but of course the development of such a crude 
 observation to the high art which is at present called the 
 manufacture of champagne is a matter which could only have 
 been accomplished by a man of genius and perseverance, 
 or by a succession of such men. 
 
 The production of champagne has increased enormously 
 in our time. In the year 1835. about five miUions of bottles 
 were exported from France. Of these, America took 500,000 ; 
 I^gland, 700,000 ; Russia, 500,000 ; Germany, 500,000 ; 
 Sweden and Denmark, 200,000 ; Italy, 100,000, and 600,000 
 were used in France itself In the previous year (1834) the 
 bottle-makers delivered to the manufacturers of champagne 
 
XIV.] ABSORPTION OF GAS. 475 
 
 ten millions of bottles, while in the year 1835 only half that 
 number of bottles was furnished. Ever since that time good 
 years have doubled and trebled the amount of champagne 
 which the merchants have laid in. From the five millions in 
 the year 1835 to an export or a production of twenty-two 
 millions in the year 1866 is an astonishing increase. 
 
 SCIENTIFIC CONSIDERATION OF THE CHAMPAGNE 
 PREPARATION PROCESS. 
 
 We owe to the activity of Mohr some important develop- 
 ments on this subject, upon which the following considerations 
 are based. They are of course applicable to all kinds of 
 effervescent wines, be they of Germany, France, or America ; 
 be they gooseberry, perry, cider, or grape wines. 
 
 Phenomena of Absorption of Gas. — All kinds of gases are 
 absorbed by fluids to a certain varying extent ; that is to say, 
 they dissolve in the fluids, lose their particular gaseous form, 
 and increase by their own weight that of the fluids. This 
 phenomenon is termed absorption. The quantity of gas which 
 will dissolve in a fluid is dependent upon (i) the nature of the 
 fluid ; (2) the quality of the gas ; (3) the temperature ; (4) the 
 pressure, measured by the height of a column of mercury, of 
 which every 760 millimetres (or 2^8 inches i line, old Paris 
 measure, or 29 inches i line, old Rhenish measure) are assumed 
 as equal to one atmosphere. 
 
 I. The nature of the fluid evidently influences absorption, 
 inasmuch as various fluids dissolve unequal quantities of one 
 and the same gas. Pure absolute alcohol at the temperature 
 of 10° C. absorbs three times as much carbonic acid as 
 pure water of the same temperature, or, in exact figures, 
 one volume of alcohol at temperature 10° C. absorbs 3 '5 14 
 volumes of carbonic anhydride, of temperature 0° C. and 
 760 mm. pressure; while water absorbs only 1-1847 vo- 
 lumes of carbonic anhydride under the same conditions. 
 The 3'SI4 volumes of carbonic acid gas are, as it were, tied 
 up in the alcohol by a certain kind of chemical affinity, 
 which causes them to lose their elasticity or tension. Although 
 3-5x4 volumes of the gas are condensed in the alcohol, 
 
476 LAWS OF ABSORPTION. [chap.. 
 
 yet they do not exercise any pressure upon any vessel in 
 which the alcohol may be confined, and the alcohol can be 
 exposed to the air without losing carbonic gas by effer- 
 vescence. But the gas is gradually lost by exchange for 
 common air. Other fluids observe a bearing towards car- 
 bonic acid gas, which is analogous to alcohol and water; 
 solutions of sugar or salt, oil of turpentine, or sulphuric acid, 
 absorb unequal quantities of one and the same gas, be it 
 carbonic or any other gas. 
 
 2. On the other hand, all gases observe a different 
 bearing towards one and the same fluid. Thus water 
 absorbs much more of carbonic acid than of oxygen, 
 nitrogen, or hydrogen, but it absorbs less of carbonic than 
 of sulphurous or hydrochloric acid, of hydrothion or 
 ammonia. 
 
 3. The lower the temperature of fluid and gas, the more 
 gas will be absorbed. Warmth prevents absorption or expels 
 the absorbed gas. 
 
 4. The quantity of gas absorbed stands in a direct propor- 
 tion to the pressure exercised upon the fluid. Thus if alcohol 
 at temperature 10° C. and 760 mm. barometer absorbs 3"5I4 
 volumes of carbonic acid gas, then the same alcohol, at a 
 pressure of two atmospheres, absorbs twice 3'SI4, or 7"028 
 volumes of gas ; at the fourfold pressure it absorbs the four- 
 fold volume, and so on. Inversely, when the pressure is re- 
 moved, the alcohol allows a quantity of the gas to escape : at 
 half an atmosphere the half of 3'S 14 volumes ; at a quarter of 
 an atmosphere only ene quarter of 3'5I4 volumes is retained, 
 while three quarters escape. 
 
 The proportion in which a certain gas is absorbed by a 
 certain fluid at a certain temperature and pressure is called 
 the coefficient of absorption, and this is always referred to 
 the unit of volume of the fluid. Thus, when it is said that 
 the coefficient of absorption of carbonic acid in alcohol is 
 4'3295, this means that one volume of alcohol at 0° C. and 
 760 mm. pressure absorbs 4-3295 volumes of carbonic acid. 
 The same interpretation has to be put upon the expression 
 that the coefficient of carbonic acid to water is 17967, of sul- 
 
XIV.] 
 
 COEFFICIENTS OF ABSORPTION. 
 
 477 
 
 phurous acid to water 68-86i, of nitrogen to alcohol 0-12634. 
 For our present purpose the coefficients of carbonic acid 
 to water and alcohol are of the greatest importance. The 
 following table gives these coefficients for temperatures from 
 0° to 20° C, and the fluid, be it water or alcohol, is always 
 assumed as the unit. 
 
 Table showing coefficients of absorption of carbonic acid in 
 water and alcohol at 760 mm. B. 
 
 T° C. 
 
 Water. 
 
 Alcohol. 
 
 T° C. 
 II 
 
 Water. 
 
 Alcohol 
 
 
 
 T7967 
 
 4-3295 
 
 I-I416 
 
 3-4461 
 
 I 
 
 I 7207 
 
 4-2368 
 
 12 
 
 r-I0l8 
 
 3-3807 
 
 2 
 
 I -6481 
 
 4-1466 
 
 13 
 
 1-0653 
 
 3-3178 
 
 3 
 
 1-5787 
 
 4-0589 
 
 H 
 
 I 0321 
 
 3-2573 
 
 4 
 
 1-5126 
 
 3-9736 
 
 15 
 
 I -0C2O 
 
 3-1993 
 
 S 
 
 1-4496 
 
 3-8908 
 
 16 
 
 0-9753 
 
 3-1438 
 
 6 
 
 I -3901 
 
 3-8105 
 
 17 
 
 0-9519 
 
 3 0908 
 
 7 
 
 I -3339 
 
 3-7327 
 
 18 
 
 0-9318 
 
 3-0402 
 
 8 
 
 I -2809 
 
 3-6573 ! 
 
 19 
 
 0-9150 
 
 2 -9920 
 
 9 
 
 I-23H 
 
 3-5844 
 
 20 
 
 0-9014 
 
 2-9465 
 
 10 
 
 1-1847 
 
 3-5140 
 
 
 
 
 It is evident from this table that alcohol under all circum- 
 stances absorbs more carbonic acid than water. 
 
 By the aid of this table we may calculate the coefficient 
 of absorption of carbonic acid for wine. Let us assume that 
 the latter contains 10 per cent, of alcohol by volume, and 
 90 per cent, of water by volume, and let the cellar tem- 
 perature be 12° C. At that temperature one volum.e of alcohol 
 absorbs, as shown above, 3-3807 volumes of carbonic acid ; 
 consequently ten volumes of alcohol absorb 33*807 volumes 
 of carbonic acid. Water at twelve absorbs riOiS, con- 
 sequently ninety volumes of water absorbs 90 x 1-1018; 
 = 99-1620 volumes of carbonic acid. Consequently lOO 
 volumes of wine absorb — 
 
 By means of the alcohol 33807 vols. 
 
 „ water 99162 „ 
 
 Total . . . 132-969 vols. 
 
 The coefficient of absorption for wine is therefore repre- 
 sented by 1-32969. Wine thus absorbs nearly i\ times 
 
478 • PRESSUBE IN BOTTLES. [chap!: 
 
 its volume of carbonic acid. The other ingredients of wine, 
 such as acids, salts, and sugar, are not considered in this calcu- 
 lation ; they diminish to some degree the absorptive faculty. 
 
 The first fermentation of must cannot be used for the 
 production of effervescent wines. A must of 20 per cent, 
 of sugar would during fermentation develop forty-seven times 
 its volume of carbonic acid, and about 10 per cent, of alcohol. 
 If it were attempted to retain these, they would cause a 
 pressure of 34'3 atmospheres. This would be about ten times 
 the pressure which the boiler of an ordinary high-pre.ssure 
 steam-engine has to undergo. As neither bottle nor cask 
 would stand such a pressure, it would be necessary to let the 
 greater part of the gas escape. But even then the wine could 
 not be used for filling bottles, because it would contain so 
 large an amount of impurities that the deposit in the bottles 
 would become very voluminous, and its removal from them 
 very difficult. For these reasons the wine intended to be 
 made into mousseux is allowed to ferment as usual, and 
 kept until the spring following the vintage, as already de- 
 scribed above. It must be clear, but yet contain a trace of 
 yeast and a quantity of albuminous matter in solution as a 
 food for new yeast plants, by which a certain quantity of 
 sugar, either contained or added, may, at a somewhat higher 
 temperature, be fermented, and the necessary quantity of 
 carbonic acid may be formed. 
 
 The question now arises, what is the proper quantity of 
 sugar which should be contained in champagne claret at 
 the time of bottling, in order to yield the proper quantity 
 of mousse ? This question has been answered partly by the 
 analytical observation of perfect specimens of champagne, 
 partly by theoretical considerations. 
 
 Experimental Determination of Tension or Pressure in full 
 Champagne Bottles. — This may be effected by various instru- 
 ments : one, the hollow screw gimlet, is inserted into the 
 cork of the champagne bottle by screwing so that the point 
 enters the gas space of the neck. The gas is prevented from 
 escaping by the tap on the lateral tube, and will of course 
 
XIV.] MANOMETER FOR BOTTLES. 
 
 479 
 
 escape if that tap is opened. After the borer has been 
 cautiously inserted while the bottle is held in a horizontal 
 position, a manometer of glass is attached to the free end 
 of the lateral tube. 
 
 Th* manometer consists of a long tube closed at the end, 
 and filled with air. The lower syphon and part of the 
 bulb are filled with mercury, and the rest of the bulb 
 is filled with water. Before the experiment the mercury 
 stands at the figure l marked on the glass, which signifies 
 one atmosphere, or in other words that the enclosed air 
 is pressed by one atmosphere, or the usual pressure of 
 the air. The tube is divided into parts of \, \, \, ^, and 
 iV of its entire length, calculated from the closed end, and 
 the denominators of these fractions are written upon the 
 glass and indicate atmospheres. [For when air is com- 
 pressed to half its volume, it presses upon the walls of the 
 enclosing vessel with the weight of two ' atmospheres, at a 
 compression to \ its force is that of four atmospheres, or, in 
 other words, the pressure exercised is in the inverse proportion 
 as the space which the air occupies. (Mariotte's law.) ] The 
 open tube of the manometer is connected with the open tube 
 of the borer by means of a union screw. The tap is now 
 open, and immediately the pressure in the bottle acts upon 
 the manometer and compresses the air contained in it. 
 The end of the mercurial column indicates the pressure. 
 It is not necessary that the scale should be engraved 
 on the glass, if the tube, as is usual, is equally wide in its, 
 course ; it is only necessary to apply to it a rule divided into 
 any number of small units, millimetres or eighths of an inch, 
 to ascertain its length from the point to the mercury, then to 
 let the pressure act, and measure the length of the column of 
 compressed air, also from the point of the tube coincident 
 with the zero-point of the rule. By dividing the number ex- 
 pressing the length of the non-compressed air with the number 
 expressing the length of the compressed air, the tension of 
 the carbonic acid expressed in atmospheres is obtained. Thus 
 supposing the air-filled part 8f the tube to have been 451 mm. 
 long before the experiment, and after application of the 
 
48o SCHINZ'S MANOMETER. [chap. 
 
 pressure to have been 82 mm., then the pressure is -J-^ = 
 5 J atmospheres. 
 
 Sc/imz's Manometer} — As glass manometers are fragile, 
 and become covered inside with oxyde of mercury, if the 
 gas included is air and not hydrogen, it is desirable to have 
 more durable instruments. Such a one is the manometer 
 of Schinz, now generally used in connection with high- 
 pressure boilers. This consists of a hollow tube of hard 
 wrought brass, elliptic on its section, and bent into the 
 shape of a circle or spiral, which is exposed to the pressure 
 to be measured from within. The pressure of a fluid or 
 gas in an enclosed space is equal upon all parts of the 
 enclosing walls. If a spiral tube of a circular section were 
 subjected to pressure from within, it would be enlarged equally 
 according to its elasticity, but would not undergo any change 
 in its curve. But in a tube of oval section there are many 
 more points on which the pressure acts in the direction of 
 the smallest diameter, than points upon which the pressure 
 is exercised in the direction of the largest diameter. The 
 necessary consequence is that the shortest diameter is elon- 
 gated at the expense of the longest, so that the elliptic 
 shape of the section of the tube approaches more 'to that 
 of a circle. If such a tube closed at the ends is bent into 
 a ring with the longer diameter at right angles to the plane 
 of the ring, the ends will move outwards and away from 
 the ideal centre if the internal pressure is increased ; a spiral 
 tube will open out like a clock-spring during the course of 
 the clock's action. If one end of the tube be fastened im- 
 moveably, the free end will show the combined movements 
 of both ends ; and if to this free end a hand is applied, which 
 points to a graduated measure at a distance, all movements 
 of the tube can be indicated on an increased scale. The 
 actual indications of such a manometer, or its scale, are 
 determined by connecting it with glass tubes, in which 
 mercury can be raised to any necessary height by means of 
 a pressure-pump of iron. A column of 760 mm. is equal 
 to one atmosphere. The instrument is applicable to cham- 
 
 1 See Dingler's Polytechnic Journal, 1849, vol. cxiii. p. 85. 
 
XIV.] TREATMENT FOR MOUSSE. 481 
 
 pagne bottles, and is made by M. Rahskopff, of Coblentz. 
 The hoilo-.v screw-borer can be inserted by itself, and the 
 projecting parts of the tap serve as levers, like the handle 
 of a gimlet. After the borer has penetrated the cork, the 
 manometer proper is attached by means of the screw. 
 When the tap is opened, the hand points at once to the 
 figure expressing atmospheres or pounds to the square inch. 
 
 It has been ascertained by many experiments that the 
 amount of pressure which is most preferred in champagne or 
 other mousseux is from 4^ to 5 atmospheres. From 5 to 6 
 atmospheres produce grande mousse} and this engenders 
 always a loss of fluid from rapid overflowing. A mousse of 
 less than 4 atmospheres is saleable only as crimant, and 
 if joined with other low qualities, as tisane; it cannot be 
 sold as mousseux : at a pressure of from 7 to 8 atmospheres, 
 nearly all bottles burst. By using a manometer the manufac- 
 turer of champagne is thus enabled to ascertain exactly the 
 amount of pressure in his bottles. If in every stack of the same 
 filling he keeps a few bottles permanently provided with the 
 manometer, he can at every hour watch the progress of the 
 fermentation. When the pressure approaches S atmospheres, 
 and there is a surplus of sugar, the maker can exactly foretell 
 the tirne at which the pressure will rise to the dangerous 
 height of 6 and 7 atmospheres, and the breakage or casse will 
 begin. Without such an instrument the bursting of bottles 
 is the only sign of excessive pressure which the maker pos- 
 sesses. The application of scientific processes is evidently 
 able to protect him from the reverse, and, with due care, per- 
 haps from any loss by breakage, that from faulty bottles and 
 corks alone excepted. 
 
 Treatment of Champagne Claret for Mousse. — When the 
 fined champagne wine, called claret, has come to rest 
 during the winter, it hardly ever contains more than J per 
 cent, of sugar. This would be insufficient for producing 
 a good mousse, and therefore sugar has to be added. The 
 claret has also to be exposed to a higher temperature, 
 
 1 " Mousse" signifies moss, from the similarity of tiie shape of tlie wine-froth to 
 a patch of moss. 
 
 1 I 
 
482 ADJUSTMENT OF ACID AND [chap. 
 
 as at the temperature of the cellar it would not ferment 
 any further. 
 
 The quantity of carbonic acid to be evolved depends upon 
 the quantity of sugar yet contained in, and that to be added 
 to, the claret. The power of absorption depends upon the 
 amount of alcohol already contained and yet to be formed. 
 It is, therefore, necessary that the manufacturer should accu- 
 rately know the amount of unfermented sugar present in the 
 claret, and the amount of alcohol. Without these data he can- 
 not adjust the quantity of sugar to be added, nor calculate 
 the coefficient of absorption. And without these calculations 
 his manufacture is exposed to serious risks and uncertainties. 
 Adjustment of Acid and Alcohol in Claret. — The first 
 operation should always be to adjust the quantity of acid 
 and alcohol in the whole of the claret taken into the cellar 
 to a given standard. As all effervescent wines receive a 
 certain quantity of sugar and of liqueur containing no acid, 
 they may contain somewhat more acid than dry still wines. 
 The latter have from 4 to 5 per mille ; effervescent sweet 
 wines, on the other hand, bear from 6 to 7| per mille. The 
 amount of alcohol in the claret should not be above 8 per 
 cent, by weight, because the fermentation of the sugar to be 
 added and the addition of liqueur always increase the alcohol 
 to 9 or 10 per cent., and its amount can easily be raised to any 
 desired quantity, but not diminished. The must from which 
 such claret is to be made should therefore contain barely 
 7 per mille of acid; if it contains more, it has to be diluted 
 with water according to the method of Gall, and the sugar, if 
 deficient in consequence, has to be made up by addition. Of 
 grape-sugar the must should contain from 16 to 17 per cent., 
 and consequently possess a specific gravity of i'072 to i'076. 
 If all must which the manufacturer makes or buys is thus 
 adjusted, he may rely upon his claret being uniform as to 
 acidity and alcohol. If the must has not been adjusted, 
 the claret itself must be analysed as to its acidity and 
 alcoholicity, and sweetness ; if acid and alcohol differ from the 
 standard, they have to be adjusted ; the quantity of sugar to 
 be added is regulated as follows. We will assume a claret to 
 
XIV.] ALCOHOL IN CLARET. 483 
 
 contain \ per cent, sugar, and 8 per cent, by weight or 10 per 
 cent, by volume of alcohol ; the fluid contents of a champagne 
 bottle we assume at 800 c. c, the empty, or air-space, at 
 15 c. c, and the sugar is to be adjusted so as to furnish 
 a mousse of 5 \ atmospheres. A wine of 8 per cent, alcohol 
 b. w. will, after the necessary mousse has been produced, have 
 a strength of about 9 per cent. b. w., or say 11 per cent, 
 b. vol., and at a temperature of 12° C. has a coefficient of 
 absorption of r35. At a pressure of 5J atmospheres 
 800 c. c. absorb therefore 5-5 x 800 x r35 = 5,940 c. c. 
 The air-space of 15 c. c. would hold 5 '5 x 15 = 82 c. c, 
 consequently the entire bottle 6,022 c. c. These weigh at 
 0° C. ii"8 grms. and at a temperature of 12° C. ii'3 grms. 
 Now, whereas 79 grms. carbonic acid are given out by 171 
 cane-sugar, the 11 "3 grms. required to be formed in the bottle 
 presuppose the presence in the claret of 25-4 grms. of cane-i 
 sugar (79 : 171 :: ii"3 : 24'4). But as the wine contained 
 already \ per cent of sugar, or in 800 c. c. 4 grms., the 
 addition of cane-sugar to be made amounts to 204 grms. 
 or almost exactly 2.\ per cent. Every 100 litres claret 
 would thus require an addition of 2'5 kilogrammes- of 
 sugar in order to be capable of producing a mousse of 5 J 
 atmospheres. 
 
 But even when all these theoretical requirements have been 
 satisfied, it is necessary to observe especially the progress of 
 the fermentation, for it is affected by many external circum- 
 stances. Thus the temperature regulates the power of absorp- 
 tion. The bottles assume slowly the higher temperature 
 of the fermentation room, and never show the maximum 
 heat of a locality, in which the temperature varies daily. On 
 the other hand, if the bottles reach a high temperature, the 
 fermentation is quicker, and the absorptive power diminished, 
 consequently there is more danger of bursting. Further, 
 the atmospheric air included in the 15 c. c. air-space, and 
 the nitrogen dissolved in the wine, diminish the faculty 
 of absorption. All these circumstances have to be so 
 guided that the fluctuation in the pressure within the 
 bottles caused by them shall remain within 5 and 6 atmo- 
 
 I I 2 
 
4S4 CHANGES IN CHAMPAGNE [chap. 
 
 spheres. If wine has been too much fined, and air has not 
 been sufficiently in contact with it, it is liable to lose its 
 power of passing into fermentation. To obviate this mis- 
 hap, it is well to carefully ventilate the wine, and to add a 
 minute quantity of yeast to the sugared claret, not exceeding 
 a teaspoonful to the hogshead, in order to make sure that a 
 few spores may be present in every bottle. 
 
 Changes in the physical Condition of Champagne by disgorging. 
 — We have already described the various operations of clear- 
 ing, settling, and disgorging the fermenting champagne. The 
 changes in the physical condition of champagne by disgorging 
 are important. The gas-space has lost its tension, and the 
 wine has lost a portion of its carbonic acid by effervescence. 
 When now the liqueur, consisting of wine or brandy, and sugar, 
 is gently poured along the side of the bottle, and the new cork 
 is forcibly inserted, a quantity of gas is again driven into the 
 air-space, sufficient after some time to eject the cork anew 
 with a report. The report on opening the bottle is produced 
 by the gas which is compressed in the air-space. If this space 
 is large, the report is full and deep, but if the space is small, 
 the report is high-pitched, dry, and short. A good report is 
 only produced by a cork which fits equally all round, and 
 does not allow gas to escape on one side before it is ejected 
 entire. If the cork is unilaterally weak, or stands obliquely, 
 it allows the gas to escape with a hissing noise on opening, 
 and no report is produced. This is so objectionable that the 
 manufacturers who value their reputation spare no money to 
 obtain the best corks. The quantity of carbonic acid gas 
 which is necessary to produce the report is not large. Sup- 
 posing an air-chamber of 15 c. c, and a compression of 5| 
 atmospheres, then it would contain 82 c. c. carbonic acid. On 
 the discharge of the cork 6y c. c. of the acid escape, and only 
 IS c. c. remain. Immediately, however, the wine, from which 
 pressure has been removed, begins to evolve carbonic acid in 
 little vesicles. These, on bursting on the surface of the wine, 
 throw small particles of their walls into the air, and form the 
 slight vapour or fog which leaves the orifice of every freshly 
 opened bottle. It might be supposed that champagne, which 
 
. XIV,] DOTTLES BY DISGORGING. 485 
 
 was under a pressure of 5| atmospheres, would quickly disen- 
 gage 4^ times i^ volume, or six times its volume of carbonic 
 acid, and retain only \\ volume, or a quantity corresponding to 
 its coefificient of absorption at 760 mm. But this is not the 
 case, for the viscid liquid retains the carbonic acid very long, 
 and disengages it only gradually by what is called sparkling 
 {pHillemeni). During the whole of this time the wine is over- 
 saturated with the acid, as is shown by many physical pheno- 
 mena. Thus the gas-bubbles rise mainly from projections 
 and uneven portions of the surface of the glass. Almost 
 invisible particles of dust, which can only with difficulty be 
 removed from the narrow pit of the champagne glass, give 
 cause to the prolonged rise of strings of little pearls of gas. 
 Any porous body, such as bread or sponge-cake, produces 
 immediately a lively effervescence, just like that which in a hot 
 fluid over-saturated with vapour is produced by charcoal or 
 tobacco-pipe. When the glass is held lightly in one hand, 
 and the palm of the other is struck gently on the top of it, 
 bubbles are evolved on the entire inner surface of the glass. 
 The glass being depressed suddenly, while the fluid is unable 
 to follow as suddenly, a slight attenuation is produced in the 
 fluid next to the glass, whereby the gas is liberated. 
 
 The twice fermented and disgorged champagne has lost 
 nearly all its albuminous ingredients which could serve as food 
 for the yeast of a third fermentation. It has therefore little 
 tendency to ferment again, and the addition of brandy and 
 sugar diminishes this fermentescibility still further. Mo.st 
 champagne therefore, after proper treatment, remains clear 
 and at rest. It should be kept on its side, so that the cork 
 should remain swelled, and not allow gas to escape. From an 
 upright bottle gas is constantly escaping, and this way is 
 sometimes used to allow an excess of gas to escape during 
 violent fermentation. It is also the remedy adopted to 
 prevent beer-bottles from exploding by excess of pressure. 
 
 Deinhard's (Coblentz) clarets, 1862 growth, intended to be 
 filled in bottles in 1863, were examined by Mohr. They 
 showed from 66 per mille to 8 per mille of acid, and from 
 8 to 9 per cent. b. w. of alcohol, mostly near 8 per cent. 
 
486 CARBONIC ACID GAS, d^c. [chap. xiv. 
 
 The cane-sugar, so-called sugar-candy, which is added in 
 the liqueur to disgorged champagne, is after a short time 
 found to be entirely transformed into invert sugar. The 
 specific gravity of champagne is higher than that of water. 
 The alcohol is more than counterbalanced by the sugar. 
 
 Quantity of Carbonic Acid Gas evolved from a Bottle of 
 sparkling Moselle {Mo/tr). — The manometer showed 4^ 
 atmospheres, and the gas collected in a gasometer measured 
 2,475 c. c. ; this is a little more than treble the volume 
 of the wine (800 c. c). The manometer had sunk to o, 
 when, by .shaking the wine, it could be made to rise again 
 to I atmosphere, and the gas evolved measured 42 c. c. ; 
 shaken a second time, 44 c. c. of carbonic acid were 
 evolved. It is evident that on the mere removal of the 
 pressure the wine allows the greater part of the gas to 
 escape, and shaking subsequently evolves only little gas ; this, 
 on passing into the air-space of the bottle, produces a slight 
 tension. The wine, after being poured into a glass, contains 
 carbonic acid to the extent only of its own volume, no matter 
 what may have been the mousse in the bottle. It is therefore 
 an error on the part of the manufacturer to endeavour to give 
 to his wine a mousse of 6 atmospheres. The cork certainly 
 rises high into the air with a loud report, the wine rises from 
 the bottle and from the glasses, and is in part lost, and spilled 
 on the table ; but when it is drank, the wine does not contain 
 more carbonic acid than if the wine in the bottle had con- 
 tained only 2j to 3 atmospheres. The more the wine is 
 agitated by rapid development of overcharged gas, the quicker 
 it becomes flat. The artificial mineral waters show a similar 
 bearing; they become flat much sooner than the natural ones, 
 which, though less charged, are less agitated. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 WINES OF THE VALLEYS OF THE LOIRE AND CHARENTE.— 
 GENERAL CLASSIFICA TION OF THE WINES OF FRANCE:. 
 
 Topography. — Valley of the Loire. — Varieties of vines. — Two kinds of colouring 
 matter in teinturkr. — Mode of cultivation. — Department of the Charente 
 and Cognac. — Varieties of vines producing the Cognac. — Mode of obtaining 
 Cognac. — Names of the vines cultivated in the different districts of France. — 
 General classification of the wines of France. — Red vpines : first, second, third, 
 fourth, and fifth classes. — White wines : first, second, third, fourth, and fifth 
 classes. — Liqueur wines : first, second, and third classes. — List of the second-rate 
 vineyards of France producing good ordinary wines. 
 
 VINES OF THE VALLEY OF THE LOIRE. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Orleans there are considerable 
 plantations of vines which extend through an enormous plain 
 towards Blois, and thence towards Angoul^me and Poitiers, 
 and further towards the Charente, into the district of Cognac. 
 The vine most common in that district is the miller or 
 meunier, easily recognized by its white-dusted leaves. It 
 bears bluish-black grapes of middle size, and is very fertile. 
 Among the vineyards one perceives many which are 
 exclusively covered with the coloured or colouring grape 
 called the dyer or teinturier. The grapes of this vine have 
 the peculiarity that their juice is of a dark red colour on 
 pressing. This, as we know, is not the case with the 
 Burgundy noirien. The juice of the teinturier becomes still 
 darker by fermentation with the husks, from which we learn 
 that there are two kinds of colouring matter present in that 
 grape, namely, one soluble in the acid, sugary juice, and 
 another insoluble in the juice, and extracted from the husk 
 
4S8 MODE OF CULTIVATION. '[chap. 
 
 only by the alcohol developed during fermentation. The 
 wine made from the dyer grape is of itself very sour, but it 
 is very well suited for colouring white wines, one part being 
 sufficient to impart to seven or eight parts of wine a red colour. 
 Owing to the large quantity of astringent matter, the white 
 wines obtain by this coloration the character of original 
 red wines, and are sold as such, particularly in Paris, they 
 being unsuitable for transport to greater distances or across 
 the seas. The dyer grape is called gros noir on account of 
 its thick black colour. In several places its name is auver- 
 nat tint, and at Cahors, in the Department du Lot, it is called 
 aiixerrois. Next to the miller and dyer the anveniat noir 
 is the most common grape planted in the valley of the Loire. 
 On examination, this turns out to be identical with the black 
 Burgundy grape. The Gamay also occurs ; and there are 
 moreover about ten other varieties, which in small numbers 
 enter upon the set. 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Orleans and the whole district of 
 Blois the vines are cultivated in straight rows from 3 to 
 
 4 feet apart. The canes are so cut that they form arches 
 which are tied to stakes of oak-wood. In the neighbourhood 
 of Blois this method becomes changed. At distances of 
 
 5 feet in all directions there are planted four vines closely 
 together in a square, and at a distance of a foot from each 
 vine a stake is driven into the ground. A cane of a foot or 
 a foot and a half in length is now tied to the stake, so that 
 the smaller square formed by the vines is now made double 
 the size by the stakes. When the new shoots have grown 
 to their full extent they are tied together at the top in the 
 form of an arch, so that the vineyards look like arched 
 promenades. In the country extending from Blois towards 
 Tours the cultivation again assumes a different character. 
 A low ridge of mountains stretches for about 45 miles along 
 the fotmer wide bed of the Loire. The whole inclination 
 of this ridge towards the Loire is covered with vines, amongst* 
 which not a single stake can be perceived. The vines all 
 
XV.] 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATLON. 
 
 489 
 
 lie on the ground, covering it in such a manner that neither 
 a path nor a separation of property can be distinguished. 
 From a distance the whole looks like a light green meadow, 
 which is never interrupted by any new plantations or other 
 crops, from which it may be concluded that the vines are 
 never entirely removed and replanted, but are always re- 
 juvenesced by the sinking of canes. The vines here, on 
 close inspection, are found to be frequently very old ; and 
 we have seen some which by their size indicated an existence 
 of fifty or a hundred years. This mode of cultivation is very 
 similar to, or identical with, that which is carried on on the 
 
 Fig. 72. — View of icvraccs, planted with olive-trees and vines in front. 
 Department of the Vai-. 
 
 banks of the Nahe in Rhenish Prussia, and there bears the 
 name of "hedge vineyard." From Blois, the whole vine- 
 growing country stretching down to near the Charente is 
 devoid of stakes. In some parts they so cut the vine that it 
 forms by three or four branches a natural basket, the new 
 •shoots of which are tied together at the top and thereby 
 support each other. The neighbourhood of Tours is remark- 
 
CHARENTE AND COGNAC. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 490 
 
 able by the contrast of life which it affords. In some parts 
 of the valley of the Loire men live in excavations of the 
 rock as if they were wild animals. In others, there are 
 luxurious villas and splendid gardens with cypress, pome- 
 granate, fig, orange, and citron trees. The cultivation of the 
 
 1 Fig. 73. — Vines at the end of the vegetation period on the olive-bearing terraced 
 
 heights of the department of the Var. 
 
 vine, however, does not rise to any great perfection, and be- 
 tween Tours and Poitiers hardly any viticulture is perceptible. 
 On reaching, however, the department of the Charente, a 
 new scene opens. 
 
 DEPARTMENT OF THE CHARENTE AND COGNAC. 
 
 About 45 miles west of Poitiers viticulture begins on a 
 large scale. Near the little town of Ruffec towards the river 
 Charente the entire hill-country, as far as one can see, is 
 covered with vines. The plantations extend in the direction 
 of Angoul6me and thence towards Cognac, about 15 miles 
 distant from Angouleme. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES PRODUCING THE EAU-DE-VIE 
 OF COGNAC. 
 
 The best cognac is made from white varieties of vines, 
 namely, from the so-called folle blanche, the boillot, the blanc 
 doux, colombar, sauvignott, and St. Pierre. None of the 
 
XV.] MODE OF OBTAINING COGNAC. 
 
 491 
 
 latter of these varieties, however, gives so sweet and well- 
 flavoured a spirit as the folk blanche. Its wine, however, 
 is not agreeable, although full of alcohol. Sometimes red 
 grapes are taken for distillation, but their spirit does not 
 possess the soft and agreeable properties which are peculiar 
 to that obtained from white grapes. The varieties cultivated 
 for red wine are balsac, maroquin, and digoiliant. The latter 
 has a felted leaf. Its grapes are mostly black and shining 
 like coal, and the plant affects the shape of a tree. There 
 are also some of the Burgundy pineaus planted here. Their 
 grapes become very black, owing to the warmer climate, but 
 they do not attain a great age. 
 
 MODE OF OBTAINING THE EAU-DE-VIE OF COGNAC. 
 
 The wines are used for distillation immediately after the 
 fermentation is over. Distillation, therefore, is carried on 
 during the whole winter. For this purpose almost every other 
 vineyard proprietor is possessed of a still. Those, however, 
 who do not possess a still sell their product to the larger 
 distillers, or have it distilled by the migrating distillers, who 
 go about from village to village, and distil the spirit out of 
 any one's wine. In spring the process of distillation mostly 
 ceases. The spirit obtained is for the most part colourless, 
 and of the strength called " four degrees of Tessa," ^ equal to 
 from 59 to 60 vol. per cents, of absolute alcohol. It has a dis- 
 agreeable, burning, and rough taste, without any flavour, and 
 is, in fact, undrinkable. It is kept in barriques of 200 litres for 
 a period of from three to four years. During that time it amelio- 
 rates, becomes sweet and tasty, and extracts from the wood the 
 light brown yellowish colour which it has when sold in trade. 
 
 ' This alcoholometer of Tessa is a very irregular instrument, known and used 
 only in the Cognac district. It is said that each of its degrees above four is equal 
 to three volume per cents, of alcohol, so that "five of Tessa" would be aboflt 
 63 per cent. b. vol., and so on. Calculating the value of the lower degrees at that 
 rate, the zero point of Tessa would be about 47 to 48 per cent. b. vol. of absolute 
 alcohol. We may surmise it to coincide with the strength of eau-de-vie as 
 formerly sold in commerce, namely, 49-1 per cent. b. vol. (Compare foot-note on 
 p. 401.) 
 
492 EAU-DE-VIE OF COGNAC. [chap. 
 
 The disagreeable taste of all freshly distilled alcohul is due 
 to the presence of empyreumatic products, which might be 
 removed from it by means of the process recommended by 
 Doebereiner, namely, filtration through animal charcoal ; but 
 this process will also withdraw from brandy the elements from 
 which, in the course of time, the volatile ethers are formed, 
 to which it owes that peculiar flavour for which we praise it — 
 a flavour which, when developed in brandy twenty and forty 
 years old, is almost identical with that of vanille. The 
 quantity of brandy produced in the Charente is 180,000 
 hectoHtres, being the produce of the distillation of 1,400,000 
 hectolitres of wine, which, together with 300,000 hectolitres 
 drunk in the country and sold as wine, make the 1,700,000 
 hectolitres of wine which grow on the 112,648 hectares of 
 vineyard in this department. The practical estimate gives 
 the quantity of cognac obtainable as one bottle from six 
 to seven bottles of white wine in good years. In bad 
 years eight to ten bottles are required to give a bottle of 
 cognac. The value of wine, as such, in this part of France is 
 perhaps the smallest of that existing in the world, no more 
 than 8 to 10 francs per 200 litres being paid for white, 
 and 18 to 20 francs for red wine. Yet wine continues 
 to be produced ; and this is owing no doubt to the fact 
 that climate and soil do not admit of any other crops. The 
 formation of the land rests everywhere upon a kind of chalk, 
 which covers the soil with fragments in the same manner 
 as in the Bourgogne. The only cultivation which this soil 
 receives is a superficial grubbing and hoeing in spring. The 
 vines are cut once in the spring, and beyond that no operation 
 is effected either upon the soil or the vine. The rest is left to 
 Providence and the sun. The vines here are frequently of 
 the shape of trees, and after a certain number of years their 
 stems are so strong that children can easily mount them. 
 Stakes are neither required nor used. 
 
NAMES OF FRENCH VINES. 
 
 493 
 
 NAMES OF THE VINES CULTIVATED IN THE 
 DIFFERENT PARTS OF FRANCE. 
 
 Corsica. 
 
 Sciacarello. 
 
 Montanaccio. 
 
 Cargajolo neio. 
 
 Vermentino. 
 
 Genovese. 
 
 Biancolella. 
 
 Malvasia. 
 
 Creminese. 
 
 Moscatello. 
 
 ROUSSILLON. 
 
 Grenache noir. 
 
 Carignane. 
 
 Mataro, or Monrvede. 
 
 Picpoule noir. 
 
 Clairette. 
 
 SOUTH. 
 
 Muscat de Rlvesaltes. 
 
 Maccabeo. 
 
 Malvoisie. 
 
 Low Languedoc. 
 
 Terret noir. 
 Mourastel. 
 Aspiran, or Piran. 
 Oiillade. 
 Sinsaou. 
 Picpoule blan.'. 
 Aramon. 
 Terret-bourret . 
 Blanquette. 
 Gallet. / 
 
 Picpoule gris. 
 Muscat de Frontignan, 
 rouge et blanc. 
 
 Furmint. 
 Picardin. 
 
 Provence. 
 
 Catalan. 
 
 Tibouren. 
 
 Bouteillan. 
 
 Pecoui-touar. 
 
 Brun-fourca 
 
 Teoulier. 
 
 Pascal, noir et blanc. 
 
 Barbaroux. 
 
 Rousselet. 
 
 Uni blanc. 
 
 Colombaud. 
 
 Araignan. 
 
 Mayorquin. 
 
 Panse. 
 
 Dauphin li. 
 Camaveze. 
 Calitor. 
 Mollard. 
 MoUardon. 
 
 SOUTH-EAST. 
 
 Plant rtu Four. 
 
 Espagnin. 
 
 Roussanne. 
 
 Marsanne. 
 
 Grosse et Petite Sirrah. 
 
 Lyonkais. 
 
 Vionnier. 
 Serine noir. 
 
 Beaujolais. 
 
 Petit Gamai. 
 Gamai Nicholas. 
 
 Maconnais. 
 
 Bons Plants, or Plants 
 
 de la Dombe, 
 Gainai picard. 
 Chardenel: 
 
 EAST. 
 
 HiGHEn Burgundy. 
 
 Noirien, or Pineau. 
 
 Beurot, or Pineau gris. 
 
 Gamai. 
 
 Giboudot. 
 
 Gamai de Montague. 
 
 Pineau blanc. 
 
 Lower Burgundy. 
 Beaunois. 
 
 Lombard. 
 
 Tresseau. 
 
 Romain. 
 
 Pineau de Coulange. 
 
 Gros et petit Verot. 
 
 V^rot mousseux. 
 
 Pineau noir kpetits grains. 
 
 .Sevignes rouge, blanc el 
 
 vert. 
 Troyen. 
 
494 
 
 NAMES OF FRENCH VINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 FrANCHE COMTfi. 
 
 Poulsard. 
 
 Trousseau. 
 
 Baclan. 
 
 Enfarine. 
 
 Savagnin noir. 
 
 Maldoux. 
 
 Gamai blanc, or JJelon. 
 
 Savagnin jaune. 
 
 EAST — continued. 
 
 LORRAINK. 
 
 Petit noir. 
 Grosse race noire. 
 Erice noir, or Liverdun. 
 Vert noir. 
 Gros-Bec. 
 
 Aubin blanc, et Aubin 
 vert. 
 
 Petracine. 
 Vert Plant. 
 
 Chamtagne. 
 
 Plant dore. 
 Plant vert dore. 
 Epinette. 
 
 BLASOIS et ORLi;ANAlS. 
 
 Lignage. 
 Auvemat. 
 
 CENTRE. 
 
 NiVERNAIS. 
 Blanc fume. 
 Sauvignon de Pouilly. 
 Muscidet, or Chasselas. 
 
 AUVERGNE. 
 
 Lyonnais. 
 Gamai. 
 
 WEST. 
 
 TOURAINE. 
 
 Meunier. 
 
 AUNIS & Saintonge 
 
 Amoison. 
 
 Grolot. 
 
 Folle Blanche 
 
 Cot rouge. 
 Malvoisie. 
 
 Breton. 
 
 Colombar. 
 
 Gros et menu Pinot de 
 
 Balzac. 
 
 
 la Loire. 
 
 
 
 SOUTH-WEST. 
 
 
 BORDELAIS. 
 
 .Semillon. 
 
 Tannat. 
 
 Caberaet-Sauvignon. 
 
 Sauvignone. 
 
 Mansenc, noir et 
 
 Franc Cabernet. 
 
 P^RIGORD. 
 
 blanc. 
 
 Merlot. 
 
 Fer. 
 
 
 Malbec. 
 
 Perigord. 
 
 High Languedoc. 
 
 Verdol. 
 
 Navarre. 
 
 Bordelais. 
 
 Cruchinet. 
 
 
 Chalosse. 
 
 Carmenere. 
 
 BfiARN. 
 
 Duras. 
 
 Grosse Vidure. 
 
 Arrouyat. 
 
 Talosse. 
 
 Vidure Sauvignone. 
 
 Bouchi. 
 
 Prunelard. 
 
XV.] CLASSIFICATION OF WINES. ' 495 
 
 GENERAL CLASSIFICATION OF THE WINES 
 OF FRANCE. 
 
 RED WINES. — FIRST CLASS. 
 
 The wines composing this class are grown in a Hmited 
 number of vineyards, the majority of which are so small that 
 it is impossible -for their products to equal the demand of the 
 connoisseurs ; therefore their price is always very high, espe- 
 cially when they are the produce of a year favourable to the 
 vine. These celebrated vineyards are divided among three 
 provinces, viz. Burgundy, the Bordelais, and the Dauphind. 
 The wines they produce unite, in exact proportions, all the 
 qualities which constitute perfect wines of their kind, and 
 differ among themselves by a character peculiar to them. 
 The wines of Burgundy are distinguished by the suavity of 
 their taste, their finesse, and spirituous aroma. Those of the 
 Bordelais by a very powerful bouquet, great flavour, strength, 
 without being intoxicating, and a slight characteristic rough- 
 ness. The wines of the Dauphin^ have somewhat the 
 character of those of the Bordelais, much body, and some 
 of the juiciness of the Burgundy wines; they are also very 
 spirituous. 
 
 The first growths of Burgundy are — Roman^e-Conti, Cham- 
 bertin, Richebourg, Clos-Vougeot, Romance de St. Vivant, 
 Tache, Clos St. Georges, and Gorton, in the department of 
 the Gote d'Or. 
 
 The Bordelais furnishes this class with, firstly, its four first 
 growths, viz. : — Ch&teau Margaux, at Margaux ; Ghateau 
 Lafitte, at Pauillac ; Ghiteau Latour, at St. Lambert ; and 
 Ghiteau Haut Brion, at Pessac. Secondly, the second growths, 
 which differ very little from the first, such as Rauzan and 
 Lascombe, at Margaux ; L^oville and Larose Balguerie, at 
 St. Julien de Reignac ; Gorze, at Gantenac ; Branne Mouton, 
 at Pauillac, and Pichon Longueville, at St. Lambert — all in 
 the department of the Gironde. 
 
 In the Dauphine, the wines of Mdal, Greffieu, and Bessas, 
 in the Hermitage district, department of the Drome, belong 
 to this class. 
 
496 RED WINES OF FRANCE. [chap. 
 
 RED WINES.— SECOND CLASS. 
 
 Most of the wines of this class dififer but little from those 
 of the first, and generally replace them in commerce ; they 
 are grown in eight different provinces. The wines of the 
 Champagne are light, fine, and delicate ; they are very 
 heady, but the exhilaration produced by them does not last 
 long, and they are mostly very wholesome. The wines of 
 the Lyonnais differ from those of the Dauphine by having 
 a little less body, being lighter and more fiery ; those of the 
 Comtat d' Avignon are fiery, fine, and agreeable ; those of 
 Beam full-bodied, spirituous, and astringent. The wine of 
 Roussillon has much colour, strength, and alcohol, but less 
 finesse and bouquet. 
 
 Champagne. — Verzy, Verzenay, Mailly, St. Basle, Bouzy, and 
 Clos de St. Thierry, department of the Marne. 
 
 Burgundy, Beaujolais. — Vosne, Nuits, Premeau, Chambolle, 
 Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Morey, Savigny, Meursault, and the 
 farm Blagny, in the department of the Cote d'Or. The C6te 
 des Olivottes, at Dannemoine ; the Cotes Pitoy, des Perrieres, 
 and des Pr6aux, at Tonnerre ; Clos de la Chainette and Clos 
 de Migrenne, at Auxerre, department of the Yonne ; Moulin 
 a Vent, Thorins, and Chdnas, in the Beaujolais and Micon- 
 nais, departments of Saone et Loire and of the Rhone. 
 
 Dauphin^. — The second qualities of the Hermitage wines 
 quoted in the first class. 
 
 Lyonnais. — The wines of C6te Rotie, department of the 
 Rhdne. 
 
 Bordelais. — The third growths and the best of the fourth 
 growths of Cantenac, Margaux, St. Julian de Reignac, St. 
 Laurent, St. Gemme, Pauillac, and St. Estephe, department 
 of the Gironde. 
 
 Comtat d' Avignon. — Clos de la Nerthe, at Chateauneuf du 
 Pape. 
 
 B^arn. — The wines of Juran^on and Gau, department of 
 the Lower Pyrenees. 
 
XV.] THIRD CLASS. 497 
 
 RED WINES. — THIRD CLASS. 
 
 Roussillon. — Banyuls, Cosperon, Port-Vendres, and Col- 
 lioure, department of the Pyr^n6es Orientales. 
 
 The growths yielded to this class by the above-mentioned 
 provinces produce wines which differ from' those named 
 before, only in being less perfect. 
 
 Champagne. — The red wines of Haut Villers, Mareuil, Disy, 
 Pierry, Epernay, Taisy, Ludes, Chigny, Rilly, Villers Allerand, 
 and Cumi^res, department of the Marne ; the best of the Ricey, 
 Balnot sur Laigne, Aviray and Bagneux la Fosse wines, 
 department of the Aube. 
 
 Burgundy, Beaujolais. — Gevray, Chassagne, Aloxe, Savigny 
 sous Beaune, Santenay, and Chenove, department of the C6te 
 d'Or ; several growths of Tonnerre, Dannemoine and Epineuil ; 
 Clairion and Boivin, at Auxerre, department of the Yonne ; 
 Fleury, Chapelle Guinchay, and Romanfeche, in the Macon- 
 nais and Beaujolais, departments of the Rhdne and Sa6ne 
 et Loire. 
 
 Auvergtie. — The small hill of Chanturgues, near Clermont 
 Ferrand, department of Pay de D6me, the wines of which 
 have somewhat the character of those of the Bordelais which 
 belong to this class. 
 
 Dauphine. — Croses, Mercurol, and Gervant, in the depart- 
 ment of the Drome. 
 
 Bordelais. — Firstly, the fourth and fifth growths of the 
 communes of Margaux, St. Julien de Reignac, Gantenac, 
 Pauillac, St. Lambert, St. Gemme, St. Estephe in the M6doc ; 
 the wines of Talance, M^rignac and L^ognan, in the dis- 
 trict of the Graves. Secondly, the best growths of Ludon, 
 Labarde, Macau, Cussac, la Marque, Sousans, Arcins, Listrac, 
 Moulis, Poujeaux, Aversan, St. Sauveur, Cissac, Verteuil, St. 
 Laurent, St. Seurin de Cadourne, in the M6doc, department 
 of the Gironde. 
 
 Lyonnais. — V^rinay, department of the Rh6ne. 
 
 P^rigord. — Yields dry, fine, light, and spirituous wines in 
 the best growths of Bergerac, department of the Dordogne. 
 
 K K 
 
498 FRENCH RED WINES. [CHAP. 
 
 Gascony proper. — The bodied and spirituous wines of Cape 
 Breton, Messange, and Souston, department of the Landes, 
 
 Languedoc. — Chusclan, Tavel, St. Geniez, Lirac, L6denon, 
 St. Laurent des Arbres, and wines called Cante Perdrix, at 
 Beaucaire, in the department of the Gard ; Cornas and St. 
 Joseph, department of the Ard^che ; the first being light and 
 fine wines, those of Cornas full-bodied wines, and those of 
 St. Joseph being delicate. All are very spirituous, but have 
 little bouquet. 
 
 Comtat d' Avignon. — Chiteauneuf du Pape ; C6teau-Brule, 
 at Sorgues, and the estate St. Sauveur at Aubagne, depart- 
 ment of Vaucluse, the wines of which are very soft and 
 agreeable. 
 
 Provence. — La Gaude, St. Laurent, Cagnes, St. Paul, 
 Villeneuve, and la Malque, department of the Var. 
 
 B^arn. — The second growths of Jurangon and Gan, depart- 
 ment of the Lower Pyrenees. 
 
 Roussillon. — The second growth of Banyuls, Cosperon, 
 Port Vendres, and CoUioure, department of the Eastern 
 Pyrenees, as producing very generous wines, suitable for 
 imparting an agreeable taste, and giving strength and body 
 to weaker wines. 
 
 RED WINES.— FOURTH CLASS. 
 
 Many of the wines of this class, if well kept, and allowed 
 to grow old in the bottle, will acquire a very agreeable taste, 
 and become comparable to some of the wines of the third 
 class. They are therefore often used as fine wines by that 
 section of society which ordinarily drinks very bad wine, 
 and, wishing to have something better on extraordinary 
 occasions, pays for the dearer wine in proportion to its ordi- 
 nary beverage. 
 
 The vineyards named in the preceding classes mostly pro- 
 duce a proportion of wine, which is so inferior that it must 
 be put into this class. Such wine is generally firmer, more 
 acid and coloured than the superior wine of the same class, 
 which enables the consumer to produce an agreeable beverage 
 by mixing it with a certain quantity of water. 
 
XV.] FOURTH CLASS. 
 
 499 
 
 Champagne. — Villedemange, Ecueil, Chamery and St. 
 Thierry, department of the Marne ; Aubigny and Montsau- 
 jeon, in that of the Haute- Marne. 
 
 Lorraine.~^2,x le Due, Bussy la C6te, Longeville, Savon- 
 ni^re, Ligny, Naives, Rosi^res, Behonne, Chardogne, Varnay 
 and Creue, department of the Meuse ; Scy, Jussy, St. Ruffine 
 and D61e, department of the Moselle, produce very good 
 wines. 
 
 Anjou. — Champigny le Sec, department of the Maine et 
 Loire. 
 
 Touraine. — Jou6, and Clos de St. Nicholas de Bourgueil, 
 department of the Indre et Loire. 
 
 OrUanais, Blaisois. — Guignes, St. Jean de Bray, St. Jean le 
 Blanc, St. Denis en Val, la Chapelle, St. Ay, Fourneaux, 
 Meun, Beaule, Beaulette, and Sandillon, department of the 
 Loiret ; Cote des Grouets, department of the Loir et 
 Cher. 
 
 Bonrgogne, Beaujolais. — Mercurey, Givry, Dijon, Monthelie, 
 Meursault, Fixin, Fixe, Brochon St. Martin, Rully, and Mon- 
 bogre, in the department of the C6te d'Or; Judas, Pied de 
 Rat, Rosoir, Quetard, &c. at Auxerre, several growths of 
 Tonnerre, Irancy, Coulange la Vineuse, Avallon, V^zelay, 
 Givry, Joigny, Pontigny, and some others in the department 
 of the Yonne ; Lanci6, Brouilly, Odenas, St. Lager, Jullienas, 
 Chiroubles, Morgon, St. Etienne la Varennes, Juillier, Emer- 
 inge, and Davay^, in the departments of the Saone et Loire 
 and Rhdne. 
 
 Franche Comti. — Arsures, Salins, Marnoz, Aigle-Pierre, and 
 Arbois, department of the Jura. 
 
 Bresse, Bugey. — Seyssel, department of the Ain. 
 Auvergne. — Chateldon, and Ris, department of Puy de 
 D6me. 
 
 Forez. — Lupp4 Chuynes, Chaveny, St. Michel, St. Pierre 
 de Boeuf, and Boen, department of the Loire. 
 
 Dauphin^. — Saillans, Vercheny, Die, Donz^re, Roussas, 
 Chateauneuf du Rhdne, Alan, Garde Adh6mar, Monts6gur, 
 and Mont6hmart, department of the Drome ; Porte du Lyon, 
 Revantin, and Seyssuel, department of the Is^re. 
 
 K K 2 
 
500 RED WINES OF FRANCE. [chap. 
 
 Lyonnais. — Sainte Foy, les BaroUes, MiUery, and Gal^e, 
 department of the Rh6ne. 
 
 Bordelais. — Firstly, those wines of the M^doc, called ordi- 
 naires bourgeois and the best of those called petits vins. 
 Secondly, those of the first growths of the palus de Queyries, 
 Montferrand, and Bassens ; of the hills of St. Emilion, Canon, 
 and Fronsac, of the communes of Blanquefort, le Pian, and 
 Arsac, in the Haut M^doc ; of St. Germain, Valeyrac, Civrac, 
 St. Bonnet, and St. Christoli, in the Bas Medoc, department 
 of the Gironde. 
 
 Perigord. — The cantons of Linde, Beaumont, Cun6gcs, 
 Domme, and St. Cyprien, department of the Dordogne. 
 
 Gascony. — The best growths of Tursan, department of 
 the Landes. 
 
 Quercy. — The first vineyards of Cahors, department of Lot. 
 
 Langiiedoc. — Roquemaure, St. Gilles les Boucheries, and 
 Bagnols, department of the Gard ; St. Georges d'Orques, 
 Verargues, St. Christol, St. Dr^zery, St. Geniez,.and Castries, 
 department of I'H^rault ; Cunac, Ckysaguet, St. Ju^ry, St. 
 Amarans, and Gaillac, department of the Tarn ; Leucate, 
 Treilles, Portel, Narbonne, N^vian, Villedaigne, Mirepeisset, 
 Argelliers, St. Nazaire, and Ginestas, department of the Aude. 
 
 Comtat d' Avignon. — Chateauneuf de Gadagne and Sorgues, 
 department of Vaucluse. 
 
 Provence. — Les M^es, department of the Lower Alps ; Ban- 
 dol, Castelet, St. Cyr and Beausset, department of the Var; 
 S^on St. Henri, S^on Ste. Andr^ St. Louis, St. Marthe, 
 Cuques, Chateau Gombert, St. G^rome, and Olives, depart- 
 ment of the Bouches du Rh6ne. 
 
 BMrn, Navarre. — Moneins, Aubertin, Conchez, Portet, 
 Aydie, Aubous, Diusse, Jadousse, Usseau, St. Jean Pouge, 
 Pontz, and Burosse, department of the Low Pyr^n^es. 
 
 Bigorre. — Madiran, Castelnau de Riviere Basse, St. Laune, 
 Soublecauze, and Lascaz^res, department of the High 
 Pyr^n^es. 
 
 Roussillon. — Espira de la Gly, Rivesaltes, Salces, Baixas 
 Corneilla de la Riviere, Pdzilla and Villeneuve de la Riviere, 
 department of the Eastern Pyr(fn6es. 
 
XV.] FIFTH CLASS, FIRST SECTION. 501 
 
 Isle of Corsica.~Th& best growths of Ajaccio, Sari, Peri, 
 Vico, Bastia, Pietra Negra, Cap-Corse, Bassanese, Mac- 
 caticcia, Calvi, Algajola, Callenzana, Monte Maggiore, 
 Corte, Tallano, Bonifacio, and Porto Vecchio. 
 
 RED WINES. — FIFTH CLASS. 
 All the wines which are inferior to the growths mentioned 
 in the preceding classes, belong to this: but there are so 
 many, and their qualities so various, that in - order to dis- 
 tinguish those which deserve preference, they must be di- 
 vided into two sections, the first of which will contain 
 the second and third qualities of ordinary wines ; and the 
 second will comprehend the fourth quality of ordinary 
 wines, and the common wines. 
 
 First Section. 
 
 The second and third qualities of ordinary wines form the 
 great bulk of the wines in daily use throughout France. They 
 do not acquire the finesse or bouquet of the higher class wines, 
 and taste well when mixed with water. 
 
 Picardy. — Pargnan, Craonne, Craonelle, Jumigny, Vassogne, 
 Bellevue, Cussy, Roucy and Laon, department of the Aisne. 
 
 He de France.— Cote des Cdlestins, at Mantes sur Seine, and 
 the Clos d'Athis, department of Seine et Oise; Cote des 
 Vallees, at Chartrettes, department of Seine et Marne. 
 
 Champagne. — -Vertus, Avenay, Champillon, Damery, Mont- 
 hdlon, Mardeuil, Moussy, Vinay, Chaveau, Mancy, Chamery, 
 Pargny, Vanteuil, Reuil, and^Fleury la Riviere, department 
 of the Marne ; Vaux, Riviere les Fosses, and Prauthoy, depart- 
 ment of the Haute Marne ; Bouilly, Laine aux Bois, Javer- 
 nan, Souligny, Bar sur Seine, and Bar sur Aube, department 
 of the Aube. 
 
 Lorraine. — Apremont, Loupmont, Woinville, Warneville, 
 Liouville, Vigneules, St. Julien, Champougny, Vaucouleurs, 
 Vignot, Sampigney, St. Mihiel, Dampcevrin, Buxi^res, Buxe- 
 rules, Montsec, and Hatton Chitel, department of the Meuse ; 
 Thiaucourt, Pagny, Arnaville, Bayonville, Charrey, Essey, 
 Villers sous Pruny, and Wandelainville, department of the 
 
502 RED WINES OF FRANCE. [chap. 
 
 Meurthe ; Charmes, Xaronval, and Ubexi, department of the 
 Vosges. 
 
 Anjou, Maine. — Dampierre, Varrains, Chac^, St. Cyr, Brez^, 
 Saumur, and Neuill^, department of the Maine et Loire, and 
 Clos des Jasnieres, department of the Sarthe. 
 
 Tonraine. — Chisseaux, Civray, Croix de Bl^r6, Bl^rd, Athee, 
 Azay sur Cher, Chenonceaux, Dierre, Epeign6, Franceuil, 
 Verets, St. Cyr sur Loire, St. Avertin, and Balan, department 
 of the Indre et Loire. 
 
 OrUanais. — Jargeau, St. Denis de Jargeau, St. Marc, St. Gy, 
 and St. Prive, department of the Loiret. 
 
 Blaisois. — Th^see, Monthon sur Cher, Bour^, Montrichard, 
 Chissay, Mareuil, Pouill4 Ang6, Faverolle, St. Georges, 
 LusilM, Meusnes, and Chambon, departments of the Loir 
 et Cher. 
 
 Burgundy, Beaicjolais. — Montagny, Chen6ve, Buxy, St. 
 Vallerin, and Saules, in the arrondissement of Chalon sur 
 Sa6ne ; several growths in the department of the C6te d'Or, 
 Cheney, Vauhch^re, Tronchoy, Molosme, Cravant, Jussy, 
 Vermanton, Joigny, St. Bris, Arcy sur Cure, and Pourly, 
 department of the Yonne ; Chassagne, Villiers, Regnier, 
 Lantignier, Quinci6, Marchand, Buret, les Etoux, Cercie, St. 
 Jean Dardieres, Pizay, Jasseron, Vadoux, Belleville, Mont- 
 melas St. Forlin, Charentay, Charnay, Priss^ Vauxrenard, 
 St. Amour, Chevagny, Chasnes, Laines, and St. V^rand, de- 
 partment of Saone et Loire, and arrondissement of Ville- 
 franche, department of the Rhone. 
 
 Franche Comtl— Clos du Chateau, at Ray, department of 
 the Haute Sa6ne ; Voiteur, Menetru, Blandans, Vadans, St. 
 Lothain, Poligny, Gdrage, and St. Laurent, department of 
 the Jura ; Besangon, Byans, Mouthier, Lombard, Liesle, and 
 Lavans, department of the Doubs. 
 
 Bresse, Bugcy,pays de Gex. -Seyssel, Champagne, Machurat, 
 Talissieux, Culoz, Anglefort, Groslde, St. Benoit, Virieux, and 
 Cerveyrieux, department of the Ain. 
 
 Pd^zVow.— Champigny, St. Georges les BaiUeraux, Coutures, 
 Jaulnais, and Dissais, department of the Vienne. 
 
 Berry, Nivernais, Bourbonnais.—ChsiVignoX, and Sancerre, 
 
XV.] FIFTH CLASS, FIRST SECTION. 503 
 
 department of the Cher ; Garenne du Sel, department of the 
 Allier ; Pouilly, department of the Nievre. 
 
 Aunts, Angoumois, Saintonge. — Saintes, Chapni^res, Font- 
 couverte, Bussac, la Chapelle, St. Romain, Saujon, le Gua, St. 
 Juhen de Lescape, Nouillers, and Beauyais sur Matha, depart- 
 ment of the Charente Inf^rieure ; St. Saturnin, Asnieres, St. 
 Genis, Linars, Mouh'dard, and the best growths of the other 
 vineyards of the department of the Charente. 
 
 Limousin. — The hills of Alassac, Saillac, Donzenac, Varetz, 
 and Syneix, department of the Corr^ze. 
 
 Auvergne, Vday,Forez. — Mariol, Lachau, Calville, la Chaux, 
 les Martres, Anthezp,l, Monton, Vic le Comte, Montpeyroux, 
 and Coudes, department of the Puy de D6me ; Renaison, 
 department of the Loire. 
 
 Ljionnais. — Irigny, Charly, Curis, Poleymieux, and Couzon, 
 department of the Rhone. 
 
 Dauphin^ — St. Chef, St. Savin, Jaillieu, Rui, Les Roches, 
 and Vienne, department of the Isere ; the greater part of the 
 produce of Saillans, and of the other vineyards of the depart- 
 ment of the Drome, already quoted in the fourth class. 
 
 Bordelais.- — The majority of the petits vins of the M6doc, 
 those of Lussac, Puisseguin, Parsac, of the canton of Coutras, 
 and several other communes in the environs of Libourne ; the 
 produce of Ambes, and the other vineyards of the Palus de la 
 Garonne, near Bordeaux ; that of the hills which stretch from 
 Ambar^s to St. Croix du Mont, and the neighbourhood of 
 Bourg sur Mer, department of the Gironde. 
 
 P^rigord. — Chancelade, and some of the communes of 
 the department of the Dordogne, quoted in the fourth 
 class. 
 
 Gascony. — Tursan, Cote de Ldnye, and Haute Chalosse, 
 department of the Landes ; Verlus and Mazeres, department 
 of the Gers. 
 
 Agenais. — Thcsac, P^ricard, and Montflanquin, department 
 of Lot et Garonne. 
 
 Quercy. — The wines of second quality o-f the department of 
 the Lot, and some of its rose-coloured wines. 
 
 Languedoc. — Mauve, Limony, Sara, Vion, Aubenas, and 
 
504 RED WINES OF FRANCE. [chap. 
 
 I'Argentiere, department of the "Ardeche ; Lacostiere, Jon- 
 qi^res, and Pugeault, department of the Gard ; Fau, Aussac, 
 Anvillar, St. Loup, Campsas, la Villedieu, and Montbartier, 
 department of Tarn et Garonne ; Meilhart, la Roque, Lagrave, 
 T^cou, and Rabastens, department of the Tarn ; Garrigues, 
 Perols, Villeveyrac, Bouzigues, Frontignan, and Poussan, de- 
 partment of the Herault ; Villaudric, and Fronton, depart- 
 ment of the Haute Garonne ; Fitou, Leucate, Treilles, Portet, 
 and Narbonne, department of the Aude. 
 
 Comtat d'Avigon. — Mori^res, Avignon, and Orange, de- 
 partment of Vaucluse. 
 
 Provence. — La Cadi^re, St. Nazaire, Ollioules, Pierrefeu, and 
 Cuers, department of the Var. 
 
 Bdarn, Navarre. — Lasseuble, la Hourcade, Saut de 
 Navailles, Cucuron, Luc, Lagor, Navarreins, and Sauveterre, 
 department of the Low Pyrdn^es. 
 
 Bigorre. — The second qualities of the growths named in the 
 fourth class, department of the High Pyr6n6es. 
 
 Roussillon. — Torremila, Terrats, Esparron, le Vernet, and 
 many other vineyards of the department of the Pyrenees 
 Orientales. 
 
 He de Corse. — The secondary growths. 
 
 Second Section. 
 
 All the growths yielding wines inferior to the third quality 
 of ordinary wines should be comprehended in this class ; the 
 best of them are qualified as ordinary wines of the fourth 
 quality, the others are called common wines, and their 
 number and variety would furnish materials for several 
 subdivisions. 
 
 Picardy. — Cr^py, Brives, Orgeval, Mont Chdlons, Vour- 
 cienne, Ployard, Arancy, Chateau Thierry, Treloup, Vailly, 
 and Soupieres, department of the Aisne ; which are ordinary 
 wines of the fourth quality, the other growths yielding only 
 common wines. 
 
 Normandy. — Chateau d'lllers, Nonancourt, Bueil, Menilles 
 and Portmort, in the department of the Eure, furnish only 
 common wines. 
 
XV.] FIFTH CLASS, SECOND SECTION. 505 
 
 He de France, Brie, and part of Gdtinais. —Moris, Andresy, 
 Mantes sur Seine, Septeuil, and Boissy sans Avoir, depart- 
 ment of Seine et Oise, produce pretty good ordinary wines ; 
 Clermont, Beauvais, Compi^gne, and Senlis, department of 
 the Oise ; Deuil, Montmorency, Argenteuil, and Sannois, de- 
 partment of Seine et Oise ; Grande Paroisse, Fontainebleau, 
 St. Girex, Orly, Courpalay, Meaux, and Lagny, department 
 of Seine et Marne, yield only common wines. 
 
 Cliampagne. — Chdtillon, Romery, Vincelles, Cormoyeux, 
 Villers, CEuilly, Vandi^res, Verneuil, Troissy, the environs 
 of Suzanne, Chalons sur Marne, and Vitry sur Marne, de- 
 partment of the Marne ; all the growths of the department 
 of the Ardennes ; St. Dizier, department of the Haute 
 Marne ; Gy^ Neuville, Landreville, and Villenoxe, depart- 
 ment of the Aube, produce some ordinary and many 
 common wines. 
 
 Lorraine. — Belleville, les Rochelles, les Allouveaux, Ram- 
 bercourt, Loicey, Ancerville, &c., department of the Meuse ; 
 Toul, Bru}ey, Dom-Germain, Pannes, Anvezin, Jaulnay, 
 Ecrouves, Lucey, Rambercourt, Boudonville, C6te-R6tie, 
 Pixer^court, Roville, Neuviller, Vic, Tinery, and Achain, 
 department of the Meurthe, and Neufchateau, fipinal and 
 St. Die, department of the Vosges, produce wines belonging 
 to all the qualities of this section, but the majority will not 
 bear transport. 
 
 Bretagne. — Very few red wines are grown in this province, 
 and they are vtiy 'bad. 
 
 Anjou, Maine. — Bazouges, Brouassin, Arthez6, Chapelle 
 d'Aligne, St. V6rand, Cromi^res, la Fl^che, and Gazoufiere, 
 department of the Sarthe, yield ordinary wines. The rest of 
 the vineyards produce only common wine. 
 
 Touraine. — Chinon, Luynes, Fondettes, Langeais, St. Marc, 
 Amboise, Poce, St. Ouen, St. Denis, Chargey, Limeray, Mones, 
 Souvigny, and Charg6, department of the Indre et Loire, 
 produce some ordinary wines. The other growths yield 
 common wines. 
 
 OrUanais. — Bou, Mardi^ Olivet, St. Mesmin, St. Marceau, 
 St. Andr6, Cl^ry, St. Paterne, Sarang, Gedy, Ingr6, Fleury, 
 
5o6 RED WINES OF FRANCE. [chap, 
 
 and Senoy, department of the Loiret, produce different 
 qualities included in this section. 
 
 Gdtinais. — The districts of Montargis and of Pithiviers, 
 department of the Loiret, produce small quantities of ordinary 
 wine, and large quantities of common wine. 
 
 Blaisois. — Onzain, Mer, and Chaumont, yield ordinary wines. 
 Romarantin, and Venddme, department of Loir et Cher, 
 produce nothing but common wine. 
 
 Burgundy, Beaujolais. — J ambles, St. Jean de Vaux, St. Marc, 
 and several other vineyards of the district of ChEilon sur 
 Saone ; some in the districts of Semur and Chatillon, depart- 
 ment of the Cote d'Or ; Pontigny, Vezinnes, Junay, St. 
 Martin, Commissey, Neuvy le Sautour, Villeneuve sur Yonne, 
 St. Julien du Sault, Paron, Veron, and many other growths 
 of the department of the Yonne ; Loch^ Vinzelles, Hurigny, 
 Sance, S6nece, St. Jean de Preche, St. Gengoux le Royal, 
 Blace, St. Julien, Sale, Denied, Lacenas, Bussi^re, Domage, 
 St. Sorlin, Az6, Pierreclos, Verze, Ige, St. Gengoux de 
 Chissey, Cless6 Vir^, Lez6, Peronne, Cogny, Liergue, Tournus, 
 Lacrost, Grattey, Boyet, Plotte, Ozenay, le Villars, Lugny, 
 Crusille, &c, in the department of Saone et Loire, and the 
 district of Villefranche, department of the Rhone, produce 
 an abundance of ordinary wines of pretty good quality, and 
 very many common wines of various qualities. 
 
 Franclte Co}nt^.~Ra.y, Charicy, Navenne, Quincey, Gy, and 
 Champlitte le Chateau, department of the Haute Saone; 
 Jalleranges, Pouilley des Vignes, Beurre, Chatillon le Due, 
 Chouzelot, and Pointvillers, department of the Doubs, and 
 some vineyards in the department of the Jura, produce 
 ordinary and common wines. 
 
 Bresse, Bugey, pays de Gex. — St. Rambert, Torcieux, 
 Amb^rieux, Vaux, Lagnieux, St. Sorlin, Villehols, Lhuis, 
 Montmerle, Thoissey, Montagneux, &c., department of the 
 Ain, yield ordinary, and passable common wines. 
 
 Poitou, Sainionge.~Q\a.\\w\g\\y, St. Martin la Riviere, Ville- 
 mort, St. Romain, and Vaux, department of the Vienne ; 
 Mont en St. Martin de Sauzaire, Bouill6 Loretz, Rochenardi 
 Lafoye-Mongeault, and Airvault, department of Deux Sevres- 
 
XV.] FIFTH CLASS, SECOND SECTION. 507 
 
 Lugon, Fay Moreau, Loge Fougereuse, and Talmont, depart- 
 ment of the Vendue, produce some ordinary wines, and 
 inferior qualities of common wines. 
 
 Berry, Nivernais Bourbonnais. — Vasselay, Fussy, and St. 
 Amand, department of the Cher ; Valen§ay, Vic la Mousti^re, 
 Veuil, Latour du Breuil, Concremi^res, and St. Hilaire, depart- 
 ment of the Indre, produce good wines of most qualities of 
 this section. 
 
 Atmis, Angoumois, and part of Saintonge. — Marennes, 
 St. Jean d'Ang^ly, St. Just, la Rochelle, the isle of Ol^ron, 
 and the isle of R6, department of the Charente Inferieure ; 
 Fouquebrune, Gardes, Blanzac, Vars, Montignac, St. Sernin, 
 Vonthon, Marthon, Mornax, Couronne la Pallue, Roules, 
 Nersac, Chassors, Julienne, and the vineyards of Confolens 
 and Barbezieux, department of the Charente, yield good 
 ordinary wine, and much common wine of bad quality. 
 
 Limousin. — Meissac, St. Bazile, Queissac, Nonnars, Puyder- 
 nac, Beaulieu, Argentat, department of the Corr^ze, and all 
 the growths of the department of Haute Vienne, produce 
 more common than ordinary wine. 
 
 Auvergne, Velay, Forez. — A large proportion of the vine- 
 yards named in the first section of this class, and N^ch^, 
 Issoire, Cornon, Landet, Orcet, Lesandre, Mezelle, Dallet, 
 Pont du Chateau, Beaumont, Aubi^res, &c., department of 
 the Puy de Dome ; St. Andre d'Apchon, St. Haon le Chatel, 
 and Charlieu, department of the Loire, yield a very large 
 quantity of common wine of various qualities. 
 
 Dauphin^, Lyonnais. — Lambin, CroUes, la Terrasse, Grignon, 
 St. Maximin, Murinais, Bessins, Pont en Royans, and St. 
 Andr4 department of the Isere ; Etoile, Livron, and St. 
 Paul, department of the Drome, and all the growths of the 
 department of the Hautes Alpes. The vineyards mentioned 
 in the first section of this class also yield wine belonging 
 to this. 
 
 Bordelais.—Mnny of tlic petits vins of the Medoc, a still 
 greater number of those of the palus of the Dordogne, of the 
 cantons of Guitres sur I'lsle and Bourg ; the inferior wines 
 of the palus of the Garonne, near Bordeaux, of the canton 
 
5o8 RED WINES, FIFTH CLASS. [chap. 
 
 of Carbon Blanc, and of the little hills on the right bank 
 of the Garonne ; of Entre-deux-Mers ; of St. Macaire and 
 Blaye, department of the Gironde, yield ordinary wines of 
 good quality, and a prodigious quantity of common wines. 
 
 P^rigord. — Brantdme, Bourdeille, St. Pantaly, St. Orse, 
 Varrins, and some other growths of the department of the 
 Dordogne. 
 
 Gascony. — Most of the vineyards in the department of the 
 Landes ; Viella, Gouts, Lussan, Ville Comtal, Mielan, Beau- 
 marchais, Plaisance, Vic Fezensac, Valence, and Miradoux, in 
 the department of the Gers. 
 
 Agenais. — Buzet, Cassel Moron, Sommensac, La Chapelle, 
 Notre Dame de Pech, Marsac, &c., department of Lot et 
 Garonne. 
 
 Quercy. — The tinted wines made in some of the cantons of 
 the department of the Lot. 
 
 Rouergne. — Lancedac, Agnac, Marcillac, Gradels, Cruon, 
 and many other growths of the department of the 
 Aveyron, yield some ordinary wines, and some very 
 common wines. 
 
 Languedoc. — The growths of the department of the Ardeche, 
 which are included in the first section of this class ; Marvejols, 
 Florae, and Villefort, department of the Lozere ; Laudun, 
 Langlade, Vauvert, Milhau, Calvisson, Aigues Vives, and 
 Alais, department of the Gard ; most of the growths of the 
 departments of Tarn et Garonne ; Gaillac and Alby, depart- 
 ment of the Tarn ; Loupian, M^ze, Agde, Pezdnas, B^ziers, 
 Lodeve, and Montpellier, department of the Herault ; Mont- 
 esquieu de Volvestre, Cappens, Buzet, and Cugnaux, depart- 
 ment of the Haute Garonne ; Lagrasse and Alet, department 
 of the Aude, yield ordinary and common wines. 
 
 Comtat d" Avignon. — The department of Vaucluse has many^ 
 vineyards producing common wine. 
 
 Provence.— Y\&xxe.i&M, Cuers, Sollies la Farlede, Hyeres, 
 Lorgues, St. Tropez, Brignoles, &c., department of the Var ; 
 Aubagne, Gemenos, Auriol, Cugnes, and many other vine- 
 yards of the department of the Bouches du Rhdne, as well as 
 nearly all those of the department of the Lower Alps. 
 
XV.] WHITE WINES. 509 
 
 B^arn, Navarre. — Those growths of the department of the 
 Low Pyr^n^es quoted in the first section of this i:lass. 
 
 Bigorre. — Bagn^res, Argelds, &c., department of the High 
 Pyrenees. 
 
 Conserans, Comt^ de Foix. — Bordes, Campagne, Teilhet, and 
 Engravies, department of the Ari^ge. 
 
 Roussillon. — Prades, department of the Pyr^n^es Orientales. 
 
 lie de Corse. — Most of its red wines belong to this class. 
 
 WHITE WINES. — FIRST CLASS. 
 
 Five provinces yield wines of superior quality, viz.: — 
 
 Champagne. — The dry wines called Sillery, which are grown 
 at Ludes, Mailly, Verzenay, and Verzy ; the soft wines of Ay, 
 Mareuil, Dissy, Pierry, Hautvillers, and the vineyard of Clozet, 
 at Epernay, department of the Marne ; they are distinguished 
 for their lightness, delicacy and agreeable taste. 
 
 Burgundy. — The celebrated wines of Montrachet, depart- 
 ment of the C6te d'Or, unite body and strength with great 
 finesse and bouquet. 
 
 Bordelais. — The strong full-flavoured wines of the first 
 growths of Barsac, Preignac, Sauternes, and Bommes, and the 
 dry wines of Villenave d'Ornon, department of the Gironde. 
 
 Forez. — The excellent wines of Chateau Grillet, department 
 of the Loire. 
 
 Dauphini. — The wines of the Hermitage, having great body, 
 strength, and perfume. 
 
 WHITE WINES. — SECOND CLASS. 
 
 Champagne. — Cramant, M^nil, Avise, Epernay and St. 
 : Martin d'Ablois, department of the Marne. 
 
 Burgundy. — The vineyards of la Perri^re, la Combotte, la 
 Goutte d'Or, la Genevri^re and les Charmes, at Meursault, 
 department of the Cote d'Or. 
 
 Franche Comt^. — Chiteau Chalons, Arbois and Pupillin, 
 department of the Jura, as much for their still as sparkling 
 wines. 
 
5IO WHITE WINES, THIRD [chap. 
 
 Lyonnais. — Condrieu, department of the Rh6ne. 
 
 Bordelais.—T^e second and third growths of Barsac, Pre- 
 ignac, Sauternes, Bonames, Villenave d'Ornon, and Blanque- 
 fort, and the first growths of Langon, Toulenne, St. Pey 
 Langon, Fargues, Pujols, Ste. Croix du Mont, Loupiac, L6o- 
 gnan and Martillac, department of the Gironde. 
 
 Agenais. — Clairac and Buzet, department of Lot et Garonne. 
 
 Languedoc. — St. P6ray, department of the Ard^che, for still 
 and sparkling wines. 
 
 B^arn. — Juran§on, Gan, Laroin, St. Fost, Gelos, Roustignon 
 and Mazeres, department of the Basses Pyrenees. 
 
 WHITE WINE.S. — THIRD CLASS. 
 
 Champagne. — The third qualities of the growths already 
 named, with those of Oger and Grauves, department of the 
 Marne. 
 
 Anjou, Maine. — The wines of the Hills of Saumur, called 
 Rotissans, la Perri^re, and Clos Morin, and those of the 
 Pailleux. The first qualities of sparkling wines also belong to 
 this class. 
 
 Burgundy, Beaujolais. — The farm of Blagny, the wines 
 called the premihe cuv^e of Meursault, department of the 
 Cote d'Or; the hills of Vaumorillon, at Junay ; the vineyards 
 des Grisdes, at Epineuil, and des Olivottes at Dannemoine; 
 those of Clos, Valmure, Vauddsir, Grenouille, Bouguereau, 
 and Mont Milieu, at Ghablis, and the best sparkling wines 
 of the Tonnerrois, department of the Yonne ; Pouilley and 
 Fuissey, department of the Sadne et Loire. 
 
 Franche ComtS. — L'Etoile and Quintignil, department of 
 the Jura. 
 
 Bordelais.—N\x€i2.A&, Arbanats, Budos, Pujols, Hats, Lan- 
 goiran, Cadillac, and Montprinblanc, and the fourth growths 
 of the Graves, department of the Gironde. 
 
 P/n^oris?.— Bergerac, Ste. Foy les Vignes, department of 
 the Dordogne. 
 
 Forez.—^Y. Michel sous Condrieu, la Chapelle, and Chuynes, 
 department of the Loire. 
 
 B^arn.—The first growths of Conchez, Portet, Aydie, 
 
XV.] AND FOURTH CLASS. 511 
 
 Aubous, Diusse, Jadousse, Cadillon, Usseau, St. Jean Poug6, 
 Fonts, and Burosse, department of the Basses Pyrenees. 
 
 WHITE WINES. — FOURTH CLASS. 
 
 Champagne. — A large proportion of the growths quoted in 
 the preceding class, and those of the Riceys, department of 
 the Aube. 
 
 Anjoti, Maine. — Saumur, Parnay, Dampierre, Souz6, Tur- 
 quant, Martign^ Briant, Foy, Bablay, Beaulieu, St. Luygne, 
 Saveni^res, St. Aubin de Luygne, and Rochefort, department 
 of Maine et Loire. 
 
 Touraine. — Vouvray, department of Indre et Loire. 
 
 Burgundy. — Meursault, department of the C6te d'Or, as 
 regards its wines called seconde cuvde ; C6te Delchet, at 
 Milly; Fourchaume, at Maligny; part of the C6tes de Troene, 
 at Poinchy ; of Vaucompin, at Chiche ; of Blanchot, at Fiey ; 
 and of Fontenay ; Charloups, les Voutois, Maison Rouge, and 
 les Beauvais, at Tonnerre ; Bridennes, at Spinal ; the vineyards 
 termed Chapelot, Vauvilliens, la Preusse, Vaulovent, Lepinote ; 
 Montmain, Vossegros, les bas du Clos, and many others, at 
 Chablis ; those of Poire, Blamoy, Voie Blanche and Chaus- 
 sans, at St. Bris and Champ ; Graviere, at Vivier, department 
 of the Yonne ; Chaintr^, Solutre, and Davaye, department of 
 Saone et Loire. 
 
 Franche Comt^. — Montigny, department of the Jura, and 
 Millery, department of the Doubs. 
 
 Berry, Nivernais. — Chavignol, and St. Satur, department of 
 the Cher ; Pouilly, department of the Ni^vre. 
 
 Auvergne. — Corent, department of Puy de D6me. 
 
 Dauphini. — The wines of Mercurol, and those called 
 Clairette, at Die, department of the Drome ; the best wines 
 of Vienne, and St. Andr4 in the department of the Is^re ; the 
 Clairette of la Saulce, department of the Hautes Alpes. 
 
 Bordelais. — The good C6tes de Cadillac, those between 
 Bassens and Baurech, department of the Gironde. 
 
 Agenais. — Marmande and Sommensac, department of Lot 
 et Garonne. 
 
512 WHITE WINES, FIFTH CLASS, [chap. 
 
 Gasconj.— The best growths of Tursan, C6te de L^nye, and 
 Haute Chalosse, department of the Landes. 
 
 PMgord. — The second qualities of the growths quoted in 
 the third class of the department of the Dordogne. 
 
 Languedoc. — Guillerand, department of the Ard^che, Limoux 
 and Magrie, department of the Aude ; Laudun and Calvisson, 
 department of the Gard ; Gaillac, department of the Tarn. 
 
 Provence. — The wines of Cassis, department of the Bouches 
 du Rhdne. 
 
 Bdarn. — The second growths of Conchez, Portet, Aydie, 
 and the other vineyards of the department of the Hautes 
 Pyrdn^es, quoted in the third class. 
 
 Roussillon. — St. Andr^ and Pr^pouille de Salces, depart- 
 ment of the Pyrenees Orientales. 
 
 Bigorre.- — Bouilh, Pereuilh, Castel Vieilh, and Periguieres, 
 department of the Hautes Pyrenees. 
 
 He de Corse. — Some of its white wines. 
 
 WHITE WINES.— FIFTH CLASS. 
 
 There being so many varieties, it is better to divide them 
 into two sections, like the red wines of the same class. 
 
 First Section. 
 
 Champagne. — Chouilly, Montholon, Grauves, Mancy, Molins, 
 Vinay, Maugrimaud, Beaumont and Villers aux Noeuds, 
 department of the Marne. 
 
 Lorraine. — Bruley and Salival, department of the Meurthe, 
 and Creu4 department of the Meuse. 
 
 Bretagne. — Varades, Montrelais, Valet, la Chapelle Hulin, 
 la Haye, Loroux, Palet, Maisdon, St. Fiacre, St. G^r^on, St. 
 Herblon, and Riall4 department of the Loire inf^rieure. 
 
 Anjou, Maine.— Clos de Jasnieres, department of the 
 Sarthe ; Chaintr^, Varrains, Chassde, St. Cyr-en-Bourg, 
 Brez^, Courchamps, Miherve, and Saumousset, department of 
 Maine et Loire. 
 
 Touraine. — Rochecorbon, Vernon, Montlouis, and St. 
 Georges, department of the Indre et Loire. 
 
 Blaisois.—'Ls. Sologne, Muides, St. Di^, Meusne, Vimeuil, 
 
XV.] FIRST AND SECOND SECTIONS. 513 
 
 St. Claude, Moret, and Montelivaut, department of Loir 
 et Cher. 
 
 Burgundy. — The troisi^mes cuv6es of Meursault, depart- 
 ment of the C6te d'Or ; Montagny, Chendve, Buxy, St. 
 Vallerin, Saules, Bouzeron and Givry, in the arrondissement 
 of Ch^lon sur Sadne ; Vivier, Beru, and Fley, in the depart- 
 ment of the Yonne ; Vergisson, Vinzelle, Loche, and Charnay, 
 department of the Sadne et Loire. 
 
 Franche Comte. — Poligny, and Lons le Saulnier, department 
 of the Jura. 
 
 Bresse, Bugey, pays de Gex. — Seyssel, department of the 
 Ain. 
 
 Nivcrnais. — Pouilly sur Loire, department of the Nievre. 
 
 Aimis, Saintonge, Angoumois. — Chirac, and Surgeres, de- 
 partment of the Charente Infdrieure ; and Champagne, de- 
 partment of the Charente. 
 
 Limousin. — Argentat, department of the Corr^ze. 
 
 Dauphin^, Lyonnais. — Chanos Curson, and the other inferior 
 growths of the department of the Dr6me. 
 
 Bordelais. — The best wines of Entre-deux-mers, Lussac, Ste. 
 Foy la Grande, and Castillon, department of the Gironde. 
 
 Perigord.-^^e.vt.r-iX growths of the department of the 
 Dordogne. 
 
 Gascony.—yi.or\\.ioxt, Nousse, la Hosse, Gibret, and Baigt 
 Caupenne, department of the Landes. 
 
 Provence. — Marseille, Gemenos, Aubagne, Allauch, la 
 Treille, St. Julien, la Valentine, St. Marcel, and Plan de 
 Cuges, department of the Bouches du Rhone. 
 
 B^arn, Bigorre, Roussillon. — AW wines inferior to those 
 mentioned in the preceding classes. 
 
 Second Section, 
 Picardy, He de France. — Pargnant, Cussy, Chiteau Thierry, 
 Charly, Essommes, and Azy, department of the Aisne ; 
 Mouchy St. Eloy, department of the Oise ; Mignaux 
 Auteuil, and Andresy, department of Seine et Oise; Cote 
 des Vallees, at Chartrettes, department of Seine et Marne. 
 Champagne. — Ancerville, Vitry sur Marne, and Sezanne, 
 
 L L 
 
514 WHITE WINES OF FRANCE. [chap. 
 
 department of the Marne ; Bar sur Aube, and Rigny le 
 F^ron, department of the Aube. 
 
 Lorraine.— Somt of the growths of the department of the 
 Moselle, and other departments forming this province. 
 
 Bretagne.—By far the largest proportion of the produce of 
 the vineyards of the department of the Loire Infdrieure quoted 
 in the first section of this class. 
 
 Aiijou.—T reliiz^, St. Barth^lemy, Brain sur I'Authion, 
 Distr6, Antign6, Bas Neuil, Brion, and all the vineyards of 
 the arrondissement of Segre and Beaug6, department of 
 Maine et Loire; la Flotte, la Chatre, St. C6cile, Marcon, 
 Chateau du Loir, Mareil, St. Benoist, St. Georges, and Cham- 
 pagne, department of the Sarthe. 
 
 Touraine.— ^ozeWes, Nozay, Lussault, St. Martin le Beau, 
 Rougny, Changay, and Langeais, department of Indreet Loire. 
 (9^//a««w.— Marigny, Rebrechien, St. Mesmin, Loury, and 
 other growths in the department of Loiret. 
 
 Blaisois.—W&r la Ville, Troo, Artuis, and Montoire, 
 department of Loir et Cher. 
 
 Burgundy. — Givry, and other wines of the arrondissement 
 of Chalon sur Sa6ne, Roffey, S6rigny, Tiss6, Vezanne, Bar- 
 nouille. Did, Tanlay, Milly, Maligny, Poinchy, Villy, Cliche, 
 Ligny le Chatel, Poily, Chemilly, Courgy, and others in the 
 department of the Yonne ; Certaux, St. Vdrand, Pierreclod, 
 Bussiere, St. Martin, &c., department of Saone et Loire. 
 
 Franche Comtl — Many growths in the departments of 
 the Haute Sa6ne, Doubs, and Jura. 
 
 Bresse, Bugey, pays de Gex. — Pont de Veyle, and Bourg, 
 department of the Ain. 
 
 Poitou. — Loudun, Trois Moutiers, and Chatellerault, de- 
 partment of the Vienna. 
 
 Berry, Nivernais. — St. Amand, and Bourges, department 
 of the Cher ; several vineyards in the department of the 
 Ni^vre ; St. Pourgain, la Chaize and the Creuziers, depart- 
 ment of the Allier ; Chabris and Reuilly, department of 
 the Indre. 
 
 Aunis, Saintonge, Angoumois. — St. Jean.d'Angdly, depart- 
 ment of the Charente Infdrieure ; Cognac, &c-, department of 
 
XV.] LIQUEUR WINES— FIRST CLASS. 515 
 
 the Charente, produce wines suitable for the distillation of 
 eau de vie. 
 
 Limousin. — Argentat, department of the Corr^ze. 
 
 Auvergne. — Chauriat, department of Puy de D6me. 
 
 Bordelais. — Entre-deux-mers, Libourne, Bourg, and Blaye, 
 department of the Gironde. 
 
 PMgord. — Most vineyards on the left bank of the 
 Dordogne. 
 
 Gascony. — Mugron, Laurede, St. G^ours, and Poyanne, de- 
 partment of the Landes. 
 
 Provence. — Marseille, Gemenos, Aubagne, AUauch, la 
 Treille, St. Julien, la Valentine, St. Marcel, Plan de Cuges, 
 department of the Bouches du Rhone. 
 
 Languedoc. — All the wines which would belong to this class 
 are distilled for eau de vie. 
 
 B^arn, Bigorre, Conserans, comie de Foix, Roussillon. — The 
 inferior growths of these provinces. 
 
 Among the growths quoted in this section, those of Bur- 
 gundy, the Bordelais, the Nivernais, arid the Champagne yield 
 the wines usually preferred as daily beverage ; part of the 
 yield of those of Touraine, Anjou, Blaisois, and Bretagne, are 
 used for blending with common red wines, to which they im- 
 part lightness and agreeable taste, and of which they diminish 
 the intensity of colour ; most of the others are converted into 
 brandy, or consumed where they are grown. 
 
 LIQUKUR WINES. 
 
 France, although on the whole it produces few wines of this 
 kind, yet yields a quantity of very good ones, which bear 
 comparison with most of those of other countries. They are 
 made red and white. 
 
 FIRST CLASS. 
 
 Roussillon. — The muscat of Rivesaltes, department of the 
 Pyrenees Orientales. 
 
 Dauphin^. — The vin de paille made in the vineyards of the 
 Hermitage, department of the Dr6me. 
 
 L L 2 
 
5i6 LIQUEUR WINES OF FRANCE. [chap. 
 
 Languedoc. — The best muscat wines of Frontignan, and 
 Lunel, department of the H^rault. 
 
 SECOND CLASS. 
 
 Languedoc. — This province produces many muscat wines, 
 among which those of the second qualities of Frontignan and 
 Lunel occupy the first place in this class. 
 
 Roussillon. — The red wines called " Grenache,'' made at 
 Banyuls, Cosperon, Collioure, and Rodez, and those called 
 " Maccabeo," at Salces, department of the Pyrenees Orien- 
 tales. 
 
 THIRD CLASS. 
 
 Limousin. — The vin de paille of Argentat, department 
 of the Correze. 
 
 P^rigord. — The muscats of Montbazillac and St. Laurent 
 des Vignes, department of the Dordogne. 
 
 Languedoc. — -The muscats of third growths of Frontignan, 
 Lunel, and those of Maraussan ; the wines called " Picardan," 
 grown at Marseillan and Pomerols; those called " Calabre," 
 " Malaga," and " Mad^re," manufactured at Cette. 
 
 Comtat d' Avignon. — The muscats of Beaune and the 
 " Grenache " of Mazan, department of Vaucluse. 
 
 Provence. — The red and white muscats of Roquevaire, 
 Cassis, Ciotat, the Malvoisie of Roquevaire, and the best 
 simmered wines of the department of Bouches du Rhone ; the 
 muscats of Beaune and the " Grenache " of Mazan, depart- 
 ment of Vaucluse. 
 
 He de Corse. — Cape Corse 
 
XV.] SECOND-RATE VINEYARDS OF FRANCE. 517 
 
 LIST OF THE SECOND-RATE VINEYARDS OF FRANCE' 
 PRODUCING GOOD ORDINARY WINES. 
 
 AIN. 
 Red Wine. — Amberieux, Anglefort, Cerveyrieux Cham- 
 pagne, Culoz, Grosl^e, Lagneux, Machurat, Saint-Benoit, 
 Saint-Rambert, Saint-Sorlin, Talissieux, Torcieux, Vaux 
 Villebois, Virieux. 
 
 White Wine. — Pont-de-Veyle. 
 
 AISNE. 
 Red Wine. — Arancy, Bellevue, Bievre, Craonne, Craonelle, 
 Chateau Thierry, Crepy, Ciissy, Jumigny, Laon, as regards 
 the growths of la Cuisine and la Cave Saint Vincent, Mont 
 Chilons, Orjeval, Pargnant, Piotard, Roncy, Soupire, Treloup, 
 Vailly, Vassogne, Vourcienne. 
 
 White Wine. — Kz^y, Charly, Chiteau Thierry, Cussy, Par- 
 gnant. 
 
 ALLIER. 
 White Wine. — Creuzier-le-Neuf et Creuzier-le-Vieux, La 
 Chaise, Saint Pourgain. 
 
 ALPES (low). 
 Red Wine. — The second qualities of the Mees. 
 
 ALPES (HIGH). 
 Red Wine. — The environs of Ventavon, and the hills bor- 
 dering on the Durance. 
 
 ARUECHE. 
 Red Wine. — Aubenas, Limony, Mauve, Saint-Pera>-, Sara. 
 White Wine. — Guilherand. 
 
 ARDENNES. 
 Red Wine. — Baldy near Vouziers. 
 
 1 These must not be confounded with the " seconds crus." 
 
5i8 SECOND-RATE [chap. 
 
 ARIEGE. 
 Red IVine.—Bordes, Campagne, Engravies, Pamiers, 
 
 Teilhet. 
 
 AUBE. 
 
 Red Wine.— Bsir-sm-Auhe, Bar-sur-Seine, Bouilly, C6te 
 des Gravilliers 4 Neuville, Javernan, Laine-aux-Bois, Souligny. 
 
 JV/tiie Wine. — Bar-sur-Aube, Les Riceys, Rigny-le-F6ron. 
 
 AUDE. 
 Red Wine. — Aleth, Argelliers, La Grasse, Nevian, Saint 
 Nazaire, Villedaigne. 
 White Wine. — Magrie. 
 
 AVEYRON. 
 
 Red Wine. — Agnac, Cruon, Gradels, Lancedat. 
 
 BOUCHES DU RHONE. 
 Red Wine. — Aries, Aubagne, Chateaurenard, Eguilles, 
 Marseille, Orgon, Tarascon. 
 
 White Wine. — Aubagne, Gem^nos, Marseille, Roquevaire, 
 St. Julien, St. Marcel. 
 
 CHARENTE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Asnieres, Linars, Moulidard, St. Genis, St. 
 Saturnin. 
 
 CHARENTE-INFERIEURE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Beauvais-sur-Matha, Bussac, Chapniers, Font- 
 couverte. La Chapelle, Nouillers, Saintes, St. Julien de 
 Lescap. 
 
 White Wine.— Chirac, La Rochelle, St. Jean d'Angely, 
 Surgeres. 
 
 CHER. 
 Red Wine. — Bourges, Fussy, St. Amand, Sancerre, Vasselay. 
 White Wine. — Bourges, Chavignol, St. Amand. 
 
 CORRfeZE. 
 Red Wine. — Allassac, Donzenac, Saillac, Syneix, Varetz. 
 White Wine. — Argental. 
 
 CORSE. 
 Red Wine. — Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi, Cervione, environs of 
 Corte, Luri, Rogliano, Sartene. 
 
XV.] VINEYARDS OF FRANCE. 519 
 
 COTE d'OR. 
 Red Wine. — The so-called secondes mvhs of the districts 
 of Beaune, Chambolle, Flavigny, Morey, Nuits, Pomard, 
 Volnay, Vosne. 
 
 White Wine.— The secondes cuv^es of Meursault. 
 
 DORDOGNE. 
 Red Wine. — Bergerac, Chancelade, Domme, Le Masn^gre, 
 near Montignac, Mareuil, Montmarv^s, Mousac, St. Cyprien, 
 St. Pantaly, St. L^on, Thonac. 
 White Wine. — Bergerac. 
 
 DOUBS. 
 Red Wine. — Besangon, Byans, Lavans, Liesle, Lombard 
 Mouthier. 
 
 White Wine. — Milerey. 
 
 DROME. 
 Red Wine. — Alan, Chiteauneuf du Rh6ne, Die, Donzere, 
 Gervant, Mont^limart, Montsegur, Roussas, Saillans, Vercheny. 
 White Wine. — Chanos, Curson. 
 
 EURK. 
 Red Wine. — Bueil, Chateau d'lUiers, Menilles. 
 White Wine. — Nonancourt, Portmort. 
 
 EURE ET LOIR. 
 Red Wine. — C6tes of Macheclou and Clos Champd6, Rous- 
 siere, St. Piat, Seche-C6te.. 
 
 (JARD. 
 Red Wine. — Aiguesvives, Bagnols, Beaucaire, Calvisson, 
 Jonqui^res, Lacosti^re, Milhaud, Pageault, St. Cdsaire,Vauvert. 
 White Wine. — St. Gilles, Tavel. 
 
 GARONNE (high). 
 Red Wine. — ^Buzet, Cugnaux, Muret. 
 
 GERS. 
 Red Wine. — Mielan, Plaisance, Vertus, Viella Villecontal. 
 
 GIRONDE. 
 Red Wine. — Ambes, Arcins, Arsac, Aversan, Bacalan, 
 Bassens, Bayon, Blanquefort, Bouillac, Bourg-sur-Mer, Cam- 
 
520 SECOND-RA TE [cHAP. 
 
 blancs, Camillac, Cissac, Civrac, Cussac, Labarde, La Libarde, 
 La Marque, L^ognan, Le Pian, Libourne, Listrac, Lormont, 
 Ludon.Lussac, Machau, Moulis, Parsac, Poujeaux,Puinormand, 
 Puiss^grin, Quinsac, St. Christophe, St. Germain, St. Gervais, 
 Ste. Eulalie d'Ambares, St. Laurent, St, Martin de Mazerac, 
 St. Sauveur, St. Seurin de Bourg, St. Surin de Cadourne, 
 Samonac, Soussans, Tauriac, Vertreuil. 
 
 White Wine. — Cadillac, Castres, Cerons, Entre-deux-mers, 
 Fargues, Langon, Laugorian, L6ognan, Loupiac, Monprinblanc, 
 Podensac, Portets, Toulenne. 
 
 HERA-ULT, 
 Red Wine. — Agde, B^ziers, Castries, Cette, Frontignan, 
 Loupian, Lunel, M^ze, Pezenas, St. Gtjniez, Sauvian. 
 
 INDRE. 
 Red Wine. — Concremiers, Latour du Breujl, St, Hilaire, 
 Valen^ay, Veuil, Vic-la-Moustiere, 
 
 INDRE ET LOIRE. 
 Red Wine. — Ath6e at Azay sur Cher, Balan, Bl^r^, 
 Chargey, Chenonceau, Chinon, Chisseaux, Civray, Dierre, 
 £peign4 Frangeuil, Fondettes, La Croix de Bler^ Langeais, 
 Limeray, Luynes, Mones, Poc^ St. Avertin, St. Cyr'Sur-Loire, 
 St. Marc, St. Ouen, Souvigny de Chargey. 
 
 White Wine. — Chan5ais, Lusault, Nazelles, Noisay, Roche- 
 corbon, Rougny, St. Georges, St. Martin-le-Beau, Vernon. 
 
 lsi:RE. 
 Red Wine.— Jarrie (Haute), Revantin, St. Chef, St. Savin, 
 St. V^rand, Vienne. 
 
 White Wine.— ha C6te St, Andr^, 
 
 JURA. 
 Red fr/«^.— Blandans, Gerage, St. Laurent, St. Lothain, 
 Vadans. 
 
 White Wine. — Montigny. 
 
 LANDES. 
 Red Wine. — Castelnau, St. Loubouer, Urgons. 
 White Wine.— La C6te de Lenye, La Haute Chalosse, Le 
 Tursan, Monfort Nousse, St. Laurent. 
 
XV.] VINEYARDS OF FRANCE. 521 
 
 LOIR ET CHER. 
 Red Wine,^-Ang6, Bour^ Chambon, Chaumont, Chissay, 
 FaveroUes, Lusille, Mareuil, Mer-la-Ville, Meusnes, Montri- 
 chard, Onzain, Pouill^ St. Aignan, St. Georges. 
 
 W/iite Wine, — Courchiverny, Mer-la-Ville, Meusnes, Muides, 
 St. Di4 Su^vres. 
 
 LOIRE, 
 Red Wme.—Ch.3.vena.y, Chuynes, Luppe, St. Michel, St, 
 Pierre de Bceuf. 
 
 White Wine. — Chuynes, La Chapelle. 
 
 LOIRE (HIGH). 
 Red Wine, — Brioude, La Voute, Monistrol. 
 
 LOIRE INFERIEURE. 
 White Wine. — La Chapelle, La Chapelle-Hulin, La Haye, 
 Le Loroux, Le Palet, Maisdon Montrelais, Riaill6, St. Fiacre, 
 St, Gervais, St. Herblon, Valet, Varades. 
 
 LOIRET. 
 Red Wine. — Jargeau, St. Denis en Jargeau, St. Gy, St- 
 Marc, St. Priv4 Sandillon. 
 
 White Wine. — Marigny, Rebrechien, St. Mesmin. 
 
 LOT. 
 Red Wine. — Cam}', La Pistoule, Lebas, Premiac, Pressac, 
 St. Vincent. 
 
 LOT ET GARONNE. 
 Red Wine. — Buzet, Mont-Flanquin, P^ricard, Sommenzac, 
 Thesac. 
 
 White Wine. — Marmande. 
 
 MAINE ET LOIRE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Bellai, in the commune of Allones, Brdzd, 
 Chass4 Dampierre, Neuill4 St. Cyr en Bourg, Saumur, 
 Varrains. 
 
 White Wine. — Beaulieu, Coteaux de Saumur, Dampierre, 
 Foy, Martignd-Briant, Parnay, Rablay, Rochefort, St. Aubin 
 de Luygnes, Savoni^res, Souz^ Turquant, Thouarc^. 
 
S22 SECOND-RATE [chap. 
 
 MARNE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Avenay, Chamery, Champillon, Claveau, 
 Damery, Fleury-la-Riviere, Mancy, Montelon, Moussy, Pargny, 
 Reuil, Vauteuil, Vertus, Vinay. 
 
 White Wine. — Beaumont, Grauves, Mancy, Molins, Monthe- 
 lon, Montgrimand, Villers-aux-Noeuds, Vinay. 
 
 MARNE (haute). 
 
 Red Wine. — Chateau Vilain, Creancey, Essey-les-Ponts, 
 Joinville, La Cote de St. Urbin, Prauthoy, Rivi^re-les-Foss6s, 
 Vaux. 
 
 MEURTHE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Achain, Bayonville, Boudonville, Bruley, 
 Charrey, Cote des Chanoines near Nancy, Cote-Rotie, Dom 
 Germain, Ecrouves, Envezin, E.ssey, Idulnay, Lucey, Neu- 
 viller. Pannes, Pixerdcourt, Rambertcourt, Rauille, Tinery, 
 Toul, Vic, Wandelainville. 
 
 White Wine. — Bruley, Salival. 
 
 MEUSE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Apremont, Bdhonne, Chardogne, Cote de St. 
 Michel at Belleville, Creiie, Haronc6te, at St. Mihiel, Les 
 Allouveaux, Les Rochelles, Ligny, Liouville, Loupmont, 
 Naives, Rosieres, St. Julien, Varney, Vaucouleurs, Vigneules, 
 Warneville, Woinville. 
 
 White Wine.— ^owzoMX^., Creiie. 
 
 MOSELLE. 
 Red Wine.— Ars, Dale, Nouilly, Semecourt. 
 White Wine. — Dornot. 
 
 NIEVRE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Pouilly-sur-Loire. 
 
 OISE. 
 White Wine. — Mouchy St. Eloi. 
 
 PUY DE d6me. 
 Red Wijze. — Chateldon, Mariol, Ris. 
 White Wine. — Chauriat, Cerent. 
 
XV. J VINEYARDS OF FRANCE. 523 
 
 PYR^NiiES (BASSES). 
 Red and White Wines. — Aubertin, Aubous, Burosse, Ca- 
 dillon, Conchet, Dinsse, Moneins, Pons, Portet. 
 
 PYR^N^ES (HAUTES). 
 
 Red Wine. — Castelnau-Rivi^re-Basse, Lascazeres, Souble- 
 cauze. 
 
 White Wine. — Castel-Vieil, Perigui^res. 
 
 PYRENEES ORIENTALES. 
 
 Red Wine. — Esparron, Le Vernet, Milbas, 0ms, St. Na- 
 zaire, Terrats. 
 
 White Wine. — -Rodez-en-Conflans, St. Nazaire. 
 
 RHONE. 
 Red Wine. — Charly, Cogny, Couzon, Curis, Iriguy, La 
 Gal^e, Les Barolles, Millery, Montm.dlas, St. Forlin, Ste. Foy, 
 Vauxrenard. 
 
 SAONE (haute). 
 Red Wine. — Charicy, Gy, Ray. 
 
 SAONE ET LOIRE. 
 Red Wine. — Blace, Buxy, Charnay, Chasnes, Chen6ve, 
 Chevagny, Jambles, Laines, La Ragal, Loche, Lurigny, Mon- 
 tagny, St. Gengoux, St. Jean de Vaux, St. Jullien, St. Marc, 
 St. Vallerin, Sance, Sanec^ Saules, Vinzelles. 
 
 White Wine. — Bouzeron, Buxy, Chen6ve, Davay4 Givry, 
 Loche, Montagny, St. Vallerin, Saules, Vergisson, Vinzelles. 
 
 SARTHE. ■ ■ 
 
 Red Wine. — Jasnieres in the commune df THomriie, near 
 Chateau du Loir. -■- 
 
 SEINE ET MARNE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Boissise, Cote des Vail^es at Chartrettes, 
 Fericy, H^ricy, La Grande Paroisse, Moret, Sablon. 
 
 White Wine. — C6te des Vallees. 
 
 SEINE ET OISE. 
 Red Wine.-^Athis, Boissy-sans-Avoir, Mantes-sur-Seine, 
 Mons, Septeuil. 
 
 White Wine. — Mignaux. 
 
524 SECOND-RATE VINEYARDS. [chap. xv. 
 
 SEVRIiS (deux). 
 Red Wine. — Airvault, Bouille-Loretz, Lafaye-Mongeault, 
 Mont en St. Martin de Sauzaire, Rochenard. 
 
 TARN. 
 
 Red Wine. — Florentin, Lagrave, Laroque, Meilhart, Rabas- 
 tens, St. Amarans, St. Juery, Tecou. 
 White Wine. — Gaillac. 
 
 TARN ET GARONNE. 
 Red Wine. — Aussac, Auvillar, Fau. 
 
 VAR. 
 Red Wine. — Brignoles, Cuers, La Cadi^re, Laroque, 
 Lorgues, Ollioules, Pierrefeu, St. Maximin, St. Nazaire, St 
 Trope'z, St. Zacharie, Tourves. 
 
 VAUCLUSE. 
 Red Wine. — Avignon, Chiteauneuf de Gadagne, Morieres 
 Orange, Sorgues. 
 
 VENDEE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Fay-Moreau, Les Herbiers, Lu^on, Loge- 
 Fourgereuse, Sigournay, Talmont. 
 
 VIENNE. 
 
 Red Wine. — Champigny, Conture, Dissais, Jaulnais, St. 
 Georges les Bailleraux. 
 
 White Wine. — Roiffif, Saix, Salonne. 
 
 VOSGES. 
 Red Wine. — Charmes, Gircourt, Porcieux, Ubexy, Vincey, 
 Xaronval. The best wines of the district of Neufchateau 
 are ordinaries of the second quahty. 
 
 YONNE. 
 Red Wine. — Auxerre, Commissey, Coulange la Vineuse, 
 Givry near Avallon, Joigny, La C6te de la Belle Fille at 
 Jussy, La Vieille Plante at Pontigny, Marsangy, Neuvy le 
 Sautour, Rosay, Rousson, St. Martin-sur-Armangon, Verman- 
 ton, Vezelay, V^zihnes, Villeneuve le Roi, Vincelotte. 
 
 White Wine.—^&x\\om\, Beru, Champs, Chemilly, Di6, 
 Roffey, St. Bris, S^rigny, Tanlay, Tissay, V6zannes, Vivier. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE WINES OF ALSATIA ; OF THE PALATINATE, OR RHENISH 
 BA VARIA ; OF RHENISH HESSIA ; OF FRANCONIA, OR THE 
 UPPER MAINE; OF BADEN, WURTEMBERG, AND HESSE 
 NORTH OF THE MAINE. 
 
 Wines of Alsatia : — Vines and cultivation ; Knippetle ; type of cultivation. — 
 Classification of the vfines of Alsatia. — Alsatian liqueur wines, and second-rate 
 vineyards. Wines of the Palatinate, or Rhenish Bavaria : — Topo- 
 graphy. — Mode of cultivation. — The closed-chamber training, or Kammerbau. 
 — Prevailing v^nes. — Special description of the Tratniner. — Advantages of the 
 mixed sets of vines in the vineyards of the Palatinate, WiWES OF Rhenish 
 Hessia : — Liebfraumilch.-^Oberingelheim. — Scharlachberg. ^Area of the 
 vineyards of the villages in Rhenish Hessia. Wines of Fkanconia, or 
 the Upper Maine : — Topography of Franconia,— The Leiste. ^Cultivation of 
 the vine. — Variety of vines in the Leiste. — Cellars of the Royal Castle. — The 
 Stein. — Viticulture in the neighbourhood of Wiirtzburg, — Wines of Baden, 
 WiJRTEMBURG, AND Hesse NORTH OF THE MAINE. — Markgrafler. — Affen- 
 thaler.— The Pfaffenwald. 
 
 WINES OF ALSATIA. 
 
 Vines and Cultivation.— These wines are similar to those of 
 the Palatinate, to be described in the following section. 
 They are white, and made of Riessling, Traminer, Burger, 
 or Elbling, and Grosser Rauschling. There is also Sylvaner 
 and Rulander, or grey Pineau. Peculiar to the district is the 
 "Knipperle" (Petit Mielleux), which fills the vineyards of 
 Thann, Rickweiher, and Ribweiler. The cultivation is pecu- 
 liar, and not very well adapted to the climate ; it reminds 
 us of the old cultivation of the Moselle district. The vines 
 are trained to form elements, and each element receives every 
 
526 
 
 WINES OF ALSATIA. 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 year a long fruit-cane, which is bent in an arch and fixed to 
 the stakes. The grapes then get too high above the ground, 
 and ripen with difficulty. But the best situations are culti- 
 vated like those of the Rheingau. Zahnacker and Trotacker 
 
 Fig. 74. — Aspect of a typical vine in Alsatia in full bearing. 
 
 at Rickweiher are celebrated by the researches which Bous- 
 singault carried on in them. Some parts are said to be free 
 from spring frosts, but others suffer from them, and all are 
 exposed to the early autumnal rains, which destroy a great 
 part of the harvest, particularly in Sylvaner. The wines 
 
XVI.] 
 
 TYPICAL VINES. 
 
 527 
 
 produced are consumed in the district, and in the adjoining 
 parts of Switzerland. They were formerly added to Rhenish 
 products of the lower districts, to make them milder, but now 
 the reverse obtains. 
 
 Fig. 75. — The typical vine without its leaves, to show its bunches of grapes and 
 the adjustment of its wood, ~. (Rickweiher, in Alsatia. ) 
 
 Classification of the Wines of Alsatia. — Gebweiler, Tiirck- 
 heim, Rickweiher, Ribweiler, Thann, Bergholtzell, Ruffach, 
 Pfaffenheim,Engisheim,Ingersheim,Mittelweyer, Hunneweyer 
 Katzenthal, Ammerschwir, Kaiserberg, Kiensheim, Sigols- 
 heim, Babelheim, Miilsheim, and Volksheim yield dry white 
 wines of very good quality, ranking in the second class. The 
 
528 WINES OF THE PALATINATE [chap. 
 
 dry wines of the second quality of the growths named in the 
 foregoing belong to the third class. 
 
 The dry white wines of Mutzig, Neuweiler, Ernolsheim, 
 Imbsheim, Zabern, Reichsheim, and Habsheim belong to the 
 fourth class. 
 
 The products of the vineyards of the districts of Weissen- 
 burg and Schlettstadt, those of the environs of Strasburg, 
 and of the worst situated vineyards higher up in the province, 
 belong to the fifth class, 
 
 L iqueur Wines of the first class. — The best straw wines are 
 made at Colmar, Kaisersberg, Olweiler, Ammerschwir, Kiens- 
 heim, and a few other places. 
 
 Liqueur Wines of the //«>i/t/«jj.— The muscat of Volksheim 
 and Heiligenstein. 
 
 Non-classified products of second-rate Vineyards : 
 
 White Wine. — Ernolsheim, Imbsheim, Molsheim, Mutzig, 
 Neuweiler, Volksheim. 
 
 Red Wine. — Ammerschwir, Kaisersberg, Kiensheim, Ol- 
 weiler, Walbach. 
 
 White Wine. — Babelheim, Bergholtzell, Ingersheim, Katz- 
 enthal, Mittelweyer, Pfaffenheim, Sigolsheim, Ruffach. 
 
 WINES OF THE PALATINATE, OR RHENISH BAVARIA. 
 TOPOGRAPHY, 
 
 The vitlcultural districts of the Palatinate are situated at 
 the foot of a mountain called the Haardt, which is the con- 
 tinuation towards the north of the Vosges, and forms the 
 natural frontier between France on the west, and between 
 Germany — more particularly Rhenish Bavaria— on the east. 
 The mountain consists mainly of sandstone. It rises rather 
 rapidly to a height of from 6oo to 800 feet, and is intersected 
 by many valleys, which are mostly directed rectangularly upon 
 the Rhine. The land at the foot of this mountain is in general 
 between 50 and 100 feet higher than the general level of the 
 Rhine valley, and forms, therefore, a kind of high plain, or a 
 
XVI.] OK RHENISH BA VARIA. 529 
 
 middle stage between the Rhine valley and the mountains. 
 Its inclination is not very great, for the ascent from the plain 
 to the termination of the viticultural district upon the steep 
 inclines of the mountains is distributed over about four or five 
 English miles. In the neighbourhood of Landau and Deides- 
 heim, however, the district is more hilly. The valleys which 
 run from west to east produce many undulations, and southern 
 as well as northern exposures; but on the whole. the exposures 
 of the vineyards are east. In this respect, therefore, the 
 Haardt resembles the situations of the C6te d'Or and some of 
 those of the Champagne. The land upon which the vineyards 
 are situated is chiefly of alluvial origin, and has been carried 
 from the mountains by water and ice. Here and there, 
 basaltic formations are seen, and the general formation, as 
 well as the ingredients of the alluvial mass, show that the 
 sandstone of the higher mountain is based upon clay, schist, 
 and granite. At some points the grey old chalk becomes 
 visible, as at Deidesheim, Neustadt, and other places, an im- 
 portant element in the consideration of the success of the 
 vine. Marl and sand are found over the whole district, giving 
 to the soil the peculiar faculty of producing large crops. The 
 whole of this alluvial formation, from the mountain to the 
 plain, is covered with vines, and only rarely are a few small 
 meadows to be seen in the bottoms of the smaller valleys. 
 If the traveller ascends a height — say a mountain near Burr- 
 weiler — his surprise at the expanse of wine-fields will be very 
 great, for over an area of thirty miles long, and seven miles 
 wide, the whole space is covered with vines. The 70,000 
 fuder of wine which are produced in this district, form 
 about one-tenth of the total production of wine in the south 
 of Germany. The wine of the Palatinate is celebrated for its 
 medium good quality, the purity and freshness of its taste, and 
 the extreme relative lowness of its price. Many have been 
 the conjectures regarding the climatic advantages of the 
 district which enable it to produce this wine, for here again 
 the eastern exposure has appeared to present difficulties to 
 the explanation that the good quality of the product was due 
 to mere situation. We believe, however, that this difficulty is 
 
 M M 
 
530 THE CLOSED-CHAMBER TRAINING, [chap. 
 
 to be solved in the same manner as those which we have met 
 with in the case of Burgundy and the Champagne. During 
 the summer months, the air in that part of Germany travels 
 during the daytime from the west to the east, and during 
 the night from the east to the west ; during the daytime, 
 therefore, the vines are protected against the general current 
 by the mountains, and able to reap the full benefit of the 
 radiant heat of the sun ; but in the evening, and during the 
 night, the east wind brings to the wine-growing district an 
 air which has travelled over the fertile plains of the Rhine 
 valley, and been there warmed so as to be capable of 
 beneficially influencing the vines. 
 
 MODE OF CULtiVATION. 
 
 The soil is here grubbed very deep, down to five or six feet, 
 and in doing this the cultivator frequently endeavours to give 
 to his vineyard a little fall towards the south. The plantations 
 are made with blind canes or with rooted young plants. The 
 renewal of vines in old plantations is performed in the usual 
 way by means of layers. The distance between the single 
 vines is about two and a half feet in one, and four and 
 a half feet in the other direction. The mode of training the 
 vine is here altogether peculiar, and different from that in any 
 other country. It is called the " double-chamber cultivation," 
 and extends from Landau to Maikammer. At Hambach and 
 Dittesfeld the so-called " closed low-frame training " is usual. 
 In all the villages east and south of the village of Haardt, the 
 open low-frame training is usual. The celebrated situations 
 of Ruppertsberg, Deidesheim, and Forst also have the open 
 low-frame training. 
 
 THE CLOSED-CHAMBER TRAINING, OR KAMMERBAU. 
 
 The Kammerbau is a method of training the vine by which, 
 when the leaves and branches are fully developed, a series of 
 from twelve to fifteen vines, fixed to a particular frame, form 
 a low chamber which is covered on all sides like an arbour or 
 
XVI.] 
 
 OR KAMMERBA U. 
 
 531 
 
 bower. The figures ^6 and ^J illustrate the frame which is 
 generally used, and require no explanation. 
 
 It is evident that this mode of cultivation entails a great 
 expense for wood, and that the viticulturists are compelled to 
 be veiy agile in stepping across the many impediments to 
 their progce'se which they encounter when dressing the vines. 
 The stem of the vines is allowed to grow to about the height 
 of a foot, then two or three branches are cut to it, and each of 
 those branches is allowed to have a long cane of seven or 
 eight eyes for bearing, and a short spur of two or three eyes 
 
 Fig. 76 Frame for trainine vinf s according to the method termed " Kammerbau,' 
 commonly used in Rhenish Bavaria (Palatmatel and at Weissenburg. 
 
 for yielding the new wood for the next year. The methods 
 of cutting and tying the vines are illustrated in the figures 
 
 "J"] and 78. 
 
 To the vines so fixed, after the soil has been once dug round 
 or worked with the hoe, nothing is done throughout the growing 
 season. They are allowed to grow, and to cover the whole of 
 the chambers as best they may. In September only the viti- 
 culturists go out to cut the superfluous branches, and this they 
 do mainly for the purpose of producing fodder for their cows, 
 which then begins to get scarce in the meadows and on the 
 fields. Those branches which cannot be consumed green are 
 
 M M 2 
 
532 
 
 THE CLOSED-CHAMBER TRAINING, 
 
 [chap. 
 
 dried for the winter. In the district of Weissenburg, and in 
 Rhenish Bavaria, the vine is indeed used as much to produce 
 
 Y-ic, 11. — Vines pruned each upon two fruit-branches, and two wood-branches 
 attached to the Trameb of the " Kammcrbau" (Weissenburg and Rhenish Bavaria). 
 
 fodder as to produce wine, and in some parts there prevails 
 the pecuHar practice of planting mangold wurtzel underneath 
 
 Fig 78.— View of a frame of the "Kamraerbau" covered by vines in full vegetation. 
 1 he subsidiary crops commonly grown underneath the frame are omitted. (Weissen- 
 burg and Rhenish Bavaria : Palatinate). 
 
 the chambers, whereby their thicket is greatly increased, and 
 the chances of the ripening of the grapes v&ry much dimi- 
 
XVI.] OR KAMMERBAU. 533 
 
 nished. The engraving (Fig. 78) illustrates the appearance 
 of a Kammer after the branches have been cut off in 
 September. We have no doubt that in the course of time 
 this peculiar mode of cultivation will disappear, and will make' 
 room for the rational process which Schattenmann has for so 
 many years successfully employed in Alsatia. This method 
 is the same as that recommended by Guyot, and will, we 
 have no doubt, prove successful in most places. 
 
 The method of closed chambers is most developed in the 
 neighbourhood of Ed«nkoben. The vineyards in this district 
 are divided by many beautiful paths and roads, and every- 
 body has a convenient means of access to his property. 
 Even where the properties abut on each other, there is always 
 a grass path ; and as the people are liberal in their roads, so 
 they are liberal in their gifts, and do not mind if the traveller 
 eats a grape or two in passing through their vineyards. In 
 some parts the people agree to perform the vintage at one 
 and the same time, and thus impose a vintage ban. The 
 must is all put into large casks called fuder, and is never 
 laid into smaller casks until it is sold and taken away. 
 
 PREVAILING VINES. 
 
 The vines which are mostly planted in this district are the 
 Chasselas, called "Gutedel;" the Traminer; the so-called 
 Austrians or Sylvaner ; and the Riessling. The RulandeP; 
 which we know to be a pale-coloured Burgundy, would no 
 doubt be very useful in these districts if it did not ripen so 
 much earlier than the other useful grapes. During the last 
 decenniums the Traminer has gained a great preponderance 
 over the other vines, Nearly all new plantations, particularly 
 those which are made by persons of capital, are- planted with 
 Traminer, because its wine is more sought and better paid 
 for. It is, indeed^ singular that all the German wine 
 merchants now sell their Palatinate wine, if possible, with 
 the addition of the designation "Traminer." We will, 
 therefore, give a short description of this interesting vine. 
 
 The name which this vine bears is most certainly a 
 misnomer. It would indicate that the vine came from or 
 
534 
 
 TRAMINER AND OTHER [cHAP. 
 
 was planted at Tramin, a little town in Tyrol, but travellers 
 who have visited Tramin on purpose have not found a single 
 plant in that district. Therefore the vine bears the name 
 like lucus a non lucendo. We will not enumerate the many- 
 synonyms under which this vine occurs. Guyot terms it 
 the gentil duret, which we therefore accept as the French 
 name. It is a medium-sized vine with dark green shoots 
 and medium-sized, thin, somewhat blistery, feebly-shining 
 leaves. The leaves are dark green, frequently covered with 
 loose wool, and not much incised. The bunch is small, 
 dense, rarely loose, branched, pyramidal, multiple, and short. 
 The berries are of nearly equal size, small and somewhat 
 elongated, but the more ripe and juicy the more round they 
 are. They are transparent, show veins, of a light red colour, 
 and have a greyish blue bloom. The skin is thick and hard. 
 The juice is of a mucous nature, very sweet and agreeable, 
 and with a peculiar taste. The grape ripens early. The 
 vine does not possess any great powers of vegetation 
 or assimilation, and requires a loose, mild, and rich soil, 
 which must contain chalk and sand. In heavy soils which 
 retain the moisture the plant becomes decrepid and does not 
 bear. It bears, however, in those parts where the upper 
 ground is pervious and the lower ground retains moisture. 
 The soil must be warm. It shoots early, and in consequence 
 is exposed to the effects of early frosts. It is for this reason 
 particularly qualified to be grown in the upper parts of the 
 Rhine valley, Alsatia, and Rhenish Bavaria, where spring 
 frosts are almost unknown. While other vines, such as 
 the black Burgundy, when touched by the frost will effect a 
 second shooting from the collateral eyes, the Traminer, if its 
 first shoots have been touched by frost, does not produce any 
 so-called secondary fruit-bearing branches. The cultivators 
 therefore take care not to turn the Traminer vineyard with 
 the hoe or spade too early in spring. The cultivation is 
 effected in bows, such as will be described in connection 
 with the viticulture of the Rheingau. To each vine there are 
 left two or three canes to be tied into bows. The grapes do 
 not rot easily, and can therefore be allowed to become very 
 
XVI.] VINES IN THE PALATINATE. 535 
 
 ripe. In the Traminer countries of the Haardt there may 
 often be seen entire vineyards which have already shed their 
 leaves but yet retain the beautiful red grapes of the Traminer. 
 The vvrine made from this variety has a thick , and so-called 
 " fat " taste. It gives the impression of body with little acid 
 and much smoothness, In exchange for that remarkable 
 property of taste it is, during its early existence, very much 
 exposed to become viscid. In order to remedy this trouble, 
 the viticulturists allow the grapes to, stand with the stalks 
 for some days after they have been cru.shed, in order to 
 effect an extraction of the tannin from the stalks, and 
 thereby precipitate the albuminous matters which seem to 
 have a share in the production of the viscidity. This process, 
 however, entails the communication of a dark colour to the 
 wine, which is not desired. If we are to believe the writers 
 on the varieties of vines, the Traminer has migrated to the 
 parts where it is now grown from Franconia. In Tyrol, 
 where it occurs, it is called " Francon." 
 
 ADVANTAGES OF THE MIXED SETS OF VINES IN THE 
 VINEYARDS OF THE PALATINATE. 
 
 The Chasselas ripens early, and almost every year ; and, 
 although it does not give wine that has lasting qualities, it 
 yields tolerable substance without acidity. The Traminer 
 gives wine of much body and smoothness, as already stated, 
 but its lasting qualities during the first year are not great. 
 The so-called Sylvaner yields a very fine liquid-tasting wine, 
 without much particular flavour. The Riessling, on the other 
 hand, in bad years, gives much acidity ; but in good years it 
 imparts to the mixture of the other qualities a beautiful 
 bouquet. We have, therefore, after close consideration of the 
 whole production of wine in the Haardt, little doubt that this 
 mixture of vines is very sensible, inasmuch as thereby the best 
 average is produced of which the changes and vicissitudes of 
 the seasons will admit. Of course we will not say that the 
 plantations of pure Traminer and pure Riessling which are 
 now becoming more common in the direction of Worms are 
 
536 WINES OF RHENISH HESSIA. [cHAP. 
 
 not to be encouraged and continued. Those who possess 
 property, and courage to face the misadventures of pure sets, 
 will, of course, also be rewarded by a splendid success in 
 good years. 
 
 There are in the Palatinate 33,048 morgen of vineyards. 
 Of these there belong to the first-class, 12,576; to the second 
 class, 9,816 ; and to the third class, 10,656. Total, 33,048. It 
 is estimated that a full harvest yields between 70,000 and 
 80,000 fuder of wine (i fuder = 1,000 litres). 
 
 WINES OF RHENISH HESSIA. 
 
 The wines and vines of this province are so similar to 
 those of the Palatinate on the one hand, and those of the 
 Rheingau on the other, as not to require any special de- 
 scription. We give, however, an accurate statement of the 
 area covered by vineyards in this rich and fertile district. 
 
 The average annual production of this area amounts to 
 about one stuck of 1,200 litres per morgen. The vineyards 
 of Worms include the one south of the Liebfrauenkirche, 
 which produces the " Liebfraumilch," a Riessling wine of fine 
 bouquet. The district of Oberingelheim produces much red 
 wine of the character of Burgundies of the second and third 
 class, from Burgundy grapes, and furnishes considerable 
 quantities of these latter for tl)e production of mousseux., 
 particularly to a celebrated manufactory at Riidesheim. The 
 district of Bingen is distinguished by the growths of Schar- 
 lachberg and Feuerberg, 
 
 The wines of L,aubenheim, Bodenheim, Guntersblum, Nier- 
 stein, and Selzen possess individual reputations, and are often 
 substituted for wines of the Rheingau. Many wines from the 
 other villages, particularly of the Kreis Oppenheim, are sold 
 under the title of Niersteiner, especially in England, where 
 the name of this village is received with marked favour. 
 
XVI.] 
 
 AIi£A OF ITS VINEYARDS. 
 
 537 
 
 AREA OF THE VINEYARDS IN THE PROVINCE OF 
 RHENISH HESSIA. 
 
 Names of Villages. 
 
 No. OF 
 SlOKGEN. 
 
 KREIS ALZE 
 
 . 
 
 Albig . 
 
 62 
 
 Beimerslieim 
 
 6 
 
 Alzei and Schafhausen 
 
 ISO 
 
 Bornheim 
 
 34 
 
 Lonsheim 
 
 25 
 
 Erbesbiidesheim 
 
 20 
 
 Flomborn 
 
 4 
 
 Honheim 
 
 100 
 
 Framersheim . 
 
 160 
 
 Wahlheim 
 
 I 
 
 Heimersheim . 
 
 38 
 
 Nack . 
 
 IS 
 
 Odernheim 
 
 ISO 
 
 Uffhofen 
 
 80 
 
 Weinheim 
 
 75 
 
 Wendelslieim . 
 
 13 
 
 933 
 
 Names of Villages. 
 
 
 No. of 
 
 MORGEN. 
 
 KREIS NIEDEROLM. 
 
 Bretzenheim .... 25 
 
 Ebersheim 
 
 
 
 392 
 
 Essenheim 
 
 
 
 370 
 
 Finthen . 
 
 
 
 20 
 
 Gonsenheim . 
 
 
 
 57 
 
 Harxheim 
 
 
 
 142 
 
 Gaubischofsheim 
 
 
 
 180 
 
 Hechtsheim . 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 Kleinwinterheim 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 Laubenheim . 
 
 
 
 4.S0 
 
 Niederolm 
 
 
 
 90 
 
 Oberolra 
 
 
 
 150 
 
 Sorgenloch 
 
 
 
 ICX3 
 
 Stadecken 
 
 
 
 468 
 
 Weisenau 
 
 
 
 180 
 
 Zornheim 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 2,764 
 
 KREIS BINGEN. 
 
 
 KREIS OBERINGELHEIM. 
 
 Bingen ..... 346 
 
 Appenheim .... 
 
 150 
 
 Budesheim 
 
 
 
 724 
 
 Aspisheim .... 
 
 216 
 
 liietersheim . 
 
 
 
 5° 
 
 Bubenheim 
 
 100 
 
 Sponsheim 
 
 
 
 32 
 
 Budenheim 
 
 28 
 
 Dromersheim . 
 
 
 
 450 
 
 Elsheini 
 
 200 
 
 Gaulshelm 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 Engelstadt 
 
 500 
 
 Gensingen 
 
 
 
 3S2 
 
 Gaualgesheim . 
 
 780 
 
 Grolslieim 
 
 
 
 ICXJ 
 
 Grosswinterheim 
 
 400 
 
 Kempten 
 
 
 
 295 
 
 Heidesheim . 
 
 212 
 
 Ockenheim 
 
 
 
 400 
 
 Horrweiler 
 
 250 
 
 2.773 
 
 Jugenheim 
 
 316 
 
 
 Mombach 
 
 114 
 
 
 Niederhilbesheim . 
 
 60 
 
 KREIS MAINZ. 
 
 Niederingelheim 
 
 300 
 
 Kastel 130 
 
 ODeringelheim 
 
 800 
 
 Kostheim . . 204 
 
 Sauerschwabenheim 
 
 195 
 
 Mainz and Zahlbach . . 131 
 
 Wackernheim ) 
 
 120 
 
 
 
 
 465 
 
 t 
 
 4.74« 
 
538 
 
 AREA OF THE VINEYARDS 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Names OF Villages. m?rgen. 
 
 KREIS OPPENHEIM. 
 
 Bodenheim .... 883 
 
 Dalheim . . . . 165 
 
 Dexheim . . . . 56 
 
 Dienheim . . . . 521 
 
 Nudelsheim . , . . 122 
 
 Dolgesheim .... 64 
 
 Einsheim .... 30 
 
 Guntersblum . . . , 692 
 
 Hahnheim .... 275 
 
 Kongernheim. ... 40 
 
 Lorzweiler . . . . 170 
 
 Mommemheim . . . 146 
 
 Nackenheim .... 438 
 
 Nierstein .... 882 
 
 Oppenheim . . . ^ 286 
 
 Schwahsburg . . . , 303 
 
 Selzen ..... 864 
 
 WalduUversheira . . . 336 
 
 Weinolsheim .... 74 
 
 
 
 
 6,247 
 
 KREIS 
 
 OSTHOFEN. 
 
 
 Abenheim 
 
 . 
 
 180 
 
 Alsheim and Hangenwahlheim 
 Bechtheim .... 
 
 350 
 
 54° 
 
 Dittelsheim 
 
 
 
 80 
 
 Domdurkheim 
 
 
 
 60 
 
 Eich 
 
 
 
 ID 
 
 Eppelsheim . 
 
 Hangenweisheim 
 
 Hessloch 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 60 
 
 Frettenheim . 
 Mettenheim . 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 Monzeraheim . 
 
 Osthofen 
 
 Westhofen 
 
 
 
 14 
 400 
 300 
 
 KREIS PFEDDERSHEIM. 
 
 Bermersheim .... 
 
 Dalsheim 
 
 Giindersheim and Enzheim 
 
 GUndheim 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 .171 
 
 20 
 
 80 
 
 74 
 
 J30 
 
 304 
 
 Names of Villages. 
 
 No. OF 
 MOKGEN. 
 
 KREIS PFEDDERSHEIM (contimied) :— 
 
 Brought forward . 304 
 
 Heppenheim . 
 
 140 
 
 Hermsheim 
 
 165 
 
 Hochheim 
 
 SO 
 
 Neuhausen 
 
 IS 
 
 Hohensiilzen . 
 
 23 
 
 Horchheim 
 
 90 
 
 Kriegsheim 
 
 70 
 
 Leiselheim 
 
 37 
 
 Molsheim 
 
 95 
 
 Morrstadt 
 
 36 
 
 Monsheim 
 
 80 
 
 Niedersflorsheim 
 
 150 
 
 Oberflorsheim 
 
 6 
 
 Offstein .... 
 
 40 
 
 Pfcddersheim . 
 
 300 
 
 Pfiffligheim .... 
 
 63 
 
 Wachenheim .... 
 
 IS 
 
 Weinsheim 
 
 42 
 
 Wiesoppenheim 
 
 40 
 
 KREIS WOLLSTEIN. 
 
 Badenheim 
 
 Pleitersheim . 
 
 Biebelsheini . 
 
 Ippesheim 
 
 Bosenheim 
 
 Eckelsheim 
 
 Freiaubersheim 
 
 Fiirfeld 
 
 Hackenheim . 
 
 Neubamberg . 
 
 Pfaffenschwabenheim 
 
 Planig . 
 
 Siefersheim 
 
 Sprendlingen and St. Johann 
 
 Steinbockenheim . 
 
 Volrheim 
 
 WoUstein 
 
 Gumbsheim . 
 
 Wonsheim 
 
 Zotzenlieim 
 
 Welgesheim . 
 
 1,761 ^ 
 
 66 
 18 
 40 
 
 54 
 130 
 
 50 
 100 
 
 41 
 
 30 
 
 12 
 
 180 
 
 18s 
 
 47 
 800 
 
 3 
 
 85 
 
 120 
 
 40 
 
 8 
 
 77 
 
 72 
 
 2,158 
 
XVI.] 
 
 rN RHENISH HESS I A. 
 
 539 
 
 Names of Villages. 
 
 No. OF 
 MORGEN. 
 
 Names of Villages. 
 
 No. of 
 
 MORCEN. 
 
 KREIS WORRSTADT. | 
 
 KREIS ■WORRSTADT— {continued) : — 
 
 Armsheim 
 
 lOO 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 2,008 
 
 Schimsheim . 
 
 40 
 
 Schornsheim ... 
 
 278 
 
 Bechtolsheim 
 
 . ■ 90 
 
 Spiesheim 
 
 ISO 
 
 Biebelnheim . 
 
 100 
 
 Sulzheim 
 
 200 
 
 Eichloch 
 
 164 
 
 Udenheim 
 
 250 
 
 Ensheim 
 
 90 
 
 Undenheim . 
 
 102 
 
 Friesenheim . 
 
 54 
 
 Vendersheim 
 
 182 
 
 Gabsheim 
 
 45 
 
 Wallertheim . 
 
 80 
 
 Gaubickelheim 
 
 250 
 
 Wbrrstadt 
 
 250 
 
 Hillesheim 
 
 76 
 360 
 
 Wolfsheim 
 
 60 
 
 Niedersaulheim 
 
 3,560 
 
 Niederweinheim 
 
 80 
 
 
 Obersaulheim 
 
 140 
 
 
 
 Partenheim 
 
 419 
 
 KREIS WORMS. 
 
 
 Carried forwa 
 
 rd . 2j.oo8 
 
 Worms .... 
 
 . 269 
 
 RECAPITULATION. 
 
 Kreis Alzei 
 Bingen 
 Mainz 
 Niederolm 
 Oberingelheim 
 Oppenheim 
 Osthofen . 
 Pfeddersheim 
 Wbllstein . 
 Worrstadt 
 Worms 
 
 Grand Total 
 
 933 
 2.773 
 
 465 
 2,764 
 
 4.741 
 6,247 
 2,171 
 1,761 
 2.158 
 3,560 
 269 
 
 27,842 
 
540 WiJRTZBURG, THE LEISTE. [chap. 
 
 WINES OF FRANCONIA, OR THE UPPER MAINE. 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF FRANCONIA. 
 
 The country anciently called Franconia, which is now com- 
 prehended under the name of the lower circle of the Maine of 
 Bavaria, contains about 70,000 Bavarian tagwerke of vine- 
 yards, which is about the same surface as that cultivated in 
 the whole of the kingdom of Wiirtemberg. Most of the wine 
 grown there is consumed in the country. There is only a 
 small quantity which is exported, and that is grown in the 
 neighbourhood of Wiirtzburg. The district of Wiirtzburg is a 
 large irregular basin, surrounded on all sides by hills, which 
 are somewhat , flatter in the east, but higher in the west. All 
 their slopes and heights are planted with vines in every direc- 
 tion. It is stated that there are in that basin 6,000 morgen 
 of vineyards. The best vineyard is the so-called Leiste, 
 situated on the left side of the Maine, in a small side-valley 
 between two hills south of the fort. Next in quality to this 
 is the Stein, which is situated on the right bank of the Maine, 
 close to the river. To the north from the Stein is the so-called 
 Middle Stein, and behind that the Harp and Schalksberg. 
 These pass into other situations, all of them provided with 
 particular names ; and these vineyards pass from the Maine 
 all around Wiirtzburg into the plain to the east. The whole 
 exposure may be said to be southerly, with the exception of 
 the eastern part, which is inclined easterly. The wines of 
 these situations in good years have a particular strength. 
 If this be a genuine quality, — and there is no reason to sup- 
 pose it not to be, as Bronner was quite satisfied about it, — 
 it behoves us to investigate how it could be explained. 
 
 THE LEISTE. 
 The soil is a clayey chalk, with a mass of broken chalk-stones, 
 the same as occurs in Wiirtemberg and the whole of Franconia. 
 The hill upon which the fort stands is called Marienberg. 
 The fort forms a high wall on the top of this hill,, and 
 reflects the rays of the sun upon the vineyard, which is ricrht 
 at its foot. The southern exposure of the hill, as well as the 
 
XVI.] VINES GROWN IN THE LEISTE. 541 
 
 eastern, is made up of vineyards, which are situated, properly- 
 speaking, on and surrounded by the fortifications. One might 
 say that the vineyards form the glacis of the fortress. ' This 
 however refers, probably, by this time, to things that were, 
 for according to the Treaty of Peace between Bavaria and 
 Prussia, of the year 1 866, the fortress of Wiirtzburg was to be 
 razed. Now, these walls give a protection to the vineyards 
 which nature could not easily afford. Protected against all 
 winds, and shone upon by the sun- the vines here grow in an 
 extraordinary manner, and produce an excellent growth every 
 year. Even such vines as the late Hermitage become of quite 
 delicate taste. Indeed, the vineyards of the Leiste may be 
 said to be a month, or sometimes two months, in advance of 
 the general vines of the country. The area of the Leiste 
 vineyard is 85 Wiirtzburg morgen, or nearly 17 hectares. 
 
 CULTIVATION OF THE VINE. 
 
 Formerly, in the cultivation of the vine, four stakes were 
 fixed to each plant, each at the distance of a foot from the 
 vine. A cane was tied to each stake, and consequently a 
 kind of square was formed, round which the new branches 
 grew. It was found that this arrangement prevented the 
 sun from striking the soil, and that the soil constantly had a 
 temperature two or three degrees less than that which was 
 obtained in vineyards with single rows of vines and single 
 rows of stakes. The Rhenish method, which we shall de- 
 scribe in the chapter on Hodhheim, was therefore adopted 
 whenever new plantations had to be made. But where new 
 plantations were not made the vine was so trained as to be 
 fixed to four stakes standing in one line. Many of the walls 
 are covered with vines. 
 
 VARIETY OF VINES IN THE LEISTE. 
 
 There are here planted mostly Riessling and Traminer, and 
 nearly one-third of Elbling. There are also some so-called 
 Franconia grapes, which we will describe as white Traminer. 
 This vine has large grapes, and may probably be an indi- 
 genous plant. In our remarks on the origin of the Tra- 
 
542 THE STEIN. [chap. 
 
 miner (p. 533), we indicated our belief that it came from Fran- 
 conia. There are also some Chasselas and some black grapes. 
 One peculiar grape is yet grown here, the so-called Hermitage. 
 This grape is of a yellowish-brown colour like the white 
 Traminer, and has an exceedingly fine flavour, the taste 
 standing midway between that of a ripe Riessling and a 
 Muscatel, having neither the fine flavour of the Riessling, nor 
 the gross flavour of the Muscatel. If this vine were cultivated 
 in greater numbers, and a wine were made from its grapes 
 alone, it might be something very excellent. The greater part 
 of the Leiste belongs to the royal domains, and all the wine 
 made there goes into the cellars which are underneath the 
 royal castle of Wiirtzburg. 
 
 All the fagades of the castle have cellars underneath, which 
 are vaulted in stone and of splendid construction. On both 
 sides of each vault there are casks of a size holding not less 
 than from five to ten fuders. Many of these casks are rem- 
 nants of the time when Wiirtzburg and its castle were the 
 seat of a bishop who was also the ruler of Franconia under 
 the Emperor. These old casks are often ornamented with 
 apostles or saints. The largest of them is so high that 
 in order to ascend to the top of it one is obliged to 
 make use of a ladder of twenty-four steps. It was built in 
 the year 1784, and contains 660 eimer. Not far from this is 
 another which is greatly venerated, and which is called the 
 Swede barrel, for in the year 1630 the Swedes destroyed 
 everything in Wiirtzburg Castle but this barrel, which, re- 
 maining unperceived by them, was found full of wine after 
 they left the country. The number of large barrels in all 
 the cellars is 289. How many of them are full we know not. 
 It is, however, certain that there are not 10 per cent of them 
 supplied with wine. The Leiste wine of good quality is 
 mostly carried to Munich and drunk at Court. Only a small 
 quantity enters trade. 
 
 THE STEIN, 
 
 The Steinberg proper consists of old chalk. It slopes 
 towards the Maine, and the vineyards abut upon it. No 
 
XVI.] VITICULTURE NEAR WURTZBURG. 543 
 
 doubt the surface of the river has a great share in deter- 
 mining the favourable nature of the climate of the lower parts 
 of the Stein, for the rays of the sun, as at Hochheim, are 
 reflected by the water as from a mirror, and go to supplement 
 the rays which fall directly upon the vineyard. The best part 
 of the Stein is the property of the Catholic citizens' Hospital. 
 It yields the wine which has been celebrated for some centu- 
 ries, and termed the " Holy Ghost wine." This Holy Ghost 
 wine can be bought only ffom the steward of the citizens' 
 Hospital, and is sold by him in peculiarly-shaped flasks called 
 bocksbeutel. These afe bottles which haye a wide belly com- 
 pressed from the sides and a short neck The contents of a 
 bocksbeutel are 32 ounces. The cultivation of these vine- 
 yards is very careful. The drainage is most perfect. The 
 prevailing vines are Riessling, Traminer, and Rulander. 
 There are a great many vineyards in the neighbourhood of 
 the Stein, the wine of which is sold as genuine Stein, but the 
 quality of which is very inferior to it. Much of the wine 
 which is sold under the name of Stein wine in London, is 
 Palatinate wine, which in Mayence and other places is filled 
 into bottles of the shape of the bocksbeutel, and then sold 
 as Stein. 
 
 VITICULTURE IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF WURTZBURG. 
 
 The method of training the vine here pursued, which con- 
 sists of bringing it to a head about half a foot above the 
 ground, is also followed in Switzerland and a great part of 
 the Jura. For that purpose the canes are planted, and as 
 often as the vine is about to grow, the growth is destroyed, so 
 that even the eye, which in the third and fourth year is left 
 upon the short stump, is destroyed. From this arises the 
 necessity in the vine, if it be vigorous enough to stand such 
 treatment, of shooting a new branch from its wood, and this 
 is accompanied with great thickening of the part from which 
 the shoot comes. In the course of eight years, a head is thus 
 produced about the size of an egg, and which, in the course 
 of twenty years, reaches the size of a fist. The advantages 
 
544 VITICULTURE IN WURTZBURG. [chap. xvi. 
 
 of such a head are in the training and cutting, but the grapes 
 which are obtained are generally small, and the wine is in- 
 different. So long as this mode of training is practised in the 
 Wiirtzburg district, we cannot hope to get any wines thence. 
 Vinification and the treatment of the wine are here carried 
 on as on the Rhine, and, therefore, require no particular 
 description. 
 
 WINES OF BADEN, WURTEMBERG, AND HESSE NORTH 
 OF THE MAINE. 
 
 Wiirtemberg and Baden produce considerable quantities of 
 wine, but as its quality is rarely above the fourth class, none 
 is exported. The area of the vineyards of Baden is S 1)532 
 Baden morgen : the quantity of wine produced annually ex- 
 ceeds 500,000 ohms ; its value is estimated to vary between 
 seven and eleven millions of florins. Growths of reputation 
 are the white Markgrafler, which is the product of thirteen 
 village districts, and the Affenthaler, a light, agreeable red 
 wine. The area of the vineyards of Wiirtemberg is 54,600 
 morgen, of which more than half are situated in the valley of 
 the Neckar. The average money value of the annual product 
 is only three and a half millions of florins. Much of the wine 
 has a pale red colour, and hence is termed " Schiller." 
 
 Hesse north of the Maine produces wine in the valley of the 
 Kintzig, from Hanau to Gelnhausen. To the north from the 
 latter town is Biidingen, which has a favourably situated vine- 
 yard called the Pfaffenwald. In a beautiful garden at the 
 foot of this slope one of us early acquired that love for viti- 
 culture and its resultant sciences which finds expression in 
 the present treatise. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 THE WINES OF THE RHEINGAU; OF THE LOWER MAINE; 
 AND OF THE MOSELLE. 
 
 The Rheingau : Topography. — Historical notes. — Varieties of vines cultivated 
 in the Rheingau. — Special description of the Riessling. — General condition 
 of the Rheingau. — HocHHElM. — Topography and soil. — Planting and training 
 of vines. — Vintage. — Vinification. — EUfeld (or Eltville). — Rauenthal. — 
 Kiedrich. — The Steinberg. — Its farm. — Mode of planting and training. — 
 Vintage. — Vinification. — The press-house. — The Cabinet. — The annual sale 
 by auction. — Hallgarten, VoUraths, Marcobrunn, Hattenheim, Oestrich, 
 Winkel. — The Johannisberg. — The castle ; the village. — Geisenheim. — Riides- 
 heim, Hinterhaus and Berg. — Assmannshausen. — Red wines from Burgundian 
 grapes. — Banks of the Rhine from Assmannshausen to Coblentz. — Area of 
 vineyards in bearing in the former Duchy, now Prussian province of Nassau. 
 — Tabular view of the proportion in per cents, which the vines planted in the 
 ten divisions of Nassau bear to each other. — Rhenish measures of capacity. 
 The Wines of the Moselle : Topography. — Varieties of vines and 
 modes of cultivation- prevailing along the Moselle. — The vintage. — Characters 
 of Moselle wine. — Area of the vineyards in the province of Rhenish Prussia. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 The country between the Taunus mountains on the north, 
 and the river Rhein on the south, is generally known as the 
 Rheingau. It forms a bay in the mountain more long than 
 deep, and filled with undulating hillocks. Its eastern termi- 
 nation is near Schierstein and Walluf, a short distance below 
 Mayence, its greatest width from north to south, amounting to 
 three miles English, is at Steinberg and Hallgarten, and its 
 western termination is at the Wisper, below Assmannshausen. 
 As the inclination is generally towards the south, it is pro- 
 tected against all northerly winds, and the mountains on the 
 
 N N 
 
546 THE WINES OF THE RHEINGAU. [cHAP, 
 
 west bank of the Nahe afford protection against the south- 
 west winds. The river Rhein acts as a mirror, which reflects 
 the rays of the sun towards the vineyards. This conforma- 
 tion of the country produces a climate most favourable to the 
 production of those particular kinds of fragrant bouquetted 
 wines for which the Rheingau has obtained a world-wide 
 celebrity. 
 
 The base of the geological conformation is clay-schist in 
 several varieties. At the Grafenberg it contains much talc, 
 at Rauenthal and Steinberg more quartz ; at the back of the 
 Johannisberg, the so-called Dachsbau, the schist alternates 
 with granulat" masses of quartz, resembling some kinds of 
 sandstone. At the Rothenberg, near Geisenheim, the schist 
 contains much iron-hydroxide, the red colour of which 
 gives rise, to the name of the locality. At the Hinterberg, 
 near Riidesheim, the schist passes into roofing slate, and is 
 also mixed with strong veins of quartz. The hills in the 
 wider part of the Gau are diluvial formations containing frag- 
 ments of the basal rocks. Their tops are plains of consider- 
 able extent, and they all have this peculiarity, that their 
 eastern declivities Jtre made up of loam and marl, giving a 
 so-called light soil, while their western inclines are formed of 
 clay, producing a heavy soil. The southern inclines are 
 gravelly. All these formations can be seen in characteristic 
 purity at the Johannisberg, and their peculiar influence upon 
 the wine accurately determined. 
 
 In conjunction with the Rheingau we consider the district 
 of Hochheim, which has furnished the monosyllabic English 
 term by which all Rhine wines are confused into one curious 
 superstition. Hochheim is situated upon the northern bank 
 of the Maine, about three miles English east of Mayence. Its 
 vineyards have no particular mountain protection in the north, 
 but are situated on a declivity rising from the Maine, and 
 terminating at the beginning of a great plain which stretches 
 northwards round the south-eastern slopes of the Taunus 
 mountain, in the direction of Homburg. By its soil, cultiva- 
 tion of the vine, and excellence of its product, it is properly 
 considered in conjunction with the Rheingau. 
 
XVII.] HISTORICAL NOTES. 547 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTES. 
 
 From some old historical documents yet extant, it 
 appears the vine v^^as cultivated in the Rheingau already in 
 the sixth and seventh century. The tradition that the first 
 plantation had been made by or in the time of Charlemagne 
 is therefore a mere fable. The greatest extension, however, 
 was given to the cultivation of the vine by the agency of 
 clerical foundations, particularly the monasteries of Johannis- 
 berg and Eberbach, the inhabitants of which planted the 
 vineyards of Johannisberg (1106), Steinberg (11 31), and Gra- 
 fenberg. The benefits they conferred upon the surrounding 
 country by their example of correct treatment of the vine 
 and wine, and by their good taste in the selection of the 
 most suitable varieties, they counteracted in later centuries 
 to a great extent by oppressing the cultivators with tithes 
 and imposts, for which they obtained the authority of the 
 worldly power. At last these corporations were swept away 
 by the Reformation or the wars consequent upon the French 
 revolution, and their property passed into the hands of the 
 Dukes of Nassau or the Princes of Metternich. Such 
 vineyards, besides those of the foregoing estates as were 
 cultivated up to the middle of the eighteenth century, 
 belonged to the resident small proprietors or to country 
 squires. But about a hundred years ago a great expansion 
 of the cultivation took place, by the immigration of capital. 
 Many rich merchants or private persons from Mayence, 
 Frankfort, and towns even farther distant, acquired land 
 and planted vineyards, and cultivated them by superinten- 
 dents and work-people, whom they kept residents on the 
 estates, while they themselves only came once a year to visit 
 their properties, and to put their harvests into the cellars. 
 
 By this concurrence of intelligence and capital the cultiva- 
 tion of the vine and the process of vinification has reached 
 a very high development in the Eheingau. The prices of 
 products and properties exhibit a continuous and almost 
 uninterrupted rise, and general prosperity is the result to 
 all cultivators. But the main factors in the production of 
 
 N N 2 
 
548 VARIETIES OF VINES [chap. 
 
 this favourable result are, besides soil and climate, the 
 peculiar grape, termed the Riessling, which almost exclu- 
 sively produces the bouquetted wines; the discovery that 
 its highest qualities are only developed when it is in a 
 state of over-ripeness or actual rottenness, without concurrent 
 acetification ; the care bestowed in the selection (if suitable 
 grapes, the rejection of all under-ripe or acid rotten grapes or 
 berries, and the general perfection of the cultivation of the 
 vine and processes and implements of vinification. 
 
 The recognition of the beneficial effects of these particular 
 proceedings has wrought a complete reform in the treatment 
 of wines in the cellar. While formerly young wine was 
 necessarily harsh and acid, and required much time to develop 
 its qualities, and while old wine only was esteemed, and 
 nothing was deemed fit that had not been from ten to 
 twenty years in the barrel, now, that the grape was allowed 
 to ripen to the utmost on the plant, wine could be perfected 
 in one-half or one-third the time that was formerly requisite. 
 Now the wines of the Rheingau attain their full development 
 in the third, fourth, and fifth year ; this relatively increases 
 their quantity, and cheapens the cost of production to the 
 consumers. The proprietors then found that large casks, 
 which they had formerly adopted, to diminish to the utmost 
 the loss by diffusion and evaporation, were impediments to 
 the quick maturation of the wines, by diminishing the surface 
 for the access of oxygen, and consequently discarded them, 
 and substituted everywhere pieces of not more than 7 ohm. 
 In the smaller properties even smaller casks are employed 
 for keeping the most select qualities. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES CULTIVATED IN THE RHEINGAU. 
 
 The Riesslmg is the characteristic and all-pervading vine of 
 the Gau. Any other sorts grown by the side of it have to 
 sink the individuality of their juice entirely in that of the 
 former. The Riessling is durable, yields wood every year, 
 ripens it In time before the winter frosts, is little liable to be 
 affected by winter frosts, does not shoot too early in spring, 
 and is therefore not easily nipped by May frosts. It is a 
 
XVII.] CULTIVATED IN THE RHEINGAU. 549 
 
 short-wooded vine, and generally trained in plants of three 
 or four branches each, rising, when cut in spring, no higher 
 than a foot above the ground. When it stands in rich 
 soil it requires long bow-canes, to develop its full bearing 
 power. 
 
 The Riessling is also common in Rhenish Hesse, and in the 
 Palatinate. Indeed, when one considers that in former years 
 it was the exclusive vine of the country between Neustadt on 
 the Haardt and Worms, one is almost led to believe that it 
 was indigenous to that part of the Rhine valley. While it still 
 produces excellent wines in this part, the wines of the Gau 
 have obtained the greater reputation for their bouquet, and 
 consequently the Traminer and Rulander have much sup- 
 planted the Riessling in the Palatinate. The Riessling also^re- 
 dominates at Wurtzburg, and enters largely upon the compo- 
 sition of the mixed sets in vineyards, in the valleys of the 
 Rhine, Moselle, Maine, or Neckar and their smaller contribu- 
 tories. In Austria, Bohemia, Moravia, Styria, the Riessling 
 also occurs, but more sporadically, and nowhere dominating. 
 In Italy and France it appears to be perfectly unknown and 
 uncultivated. 
 
 While, therefore, the Riessling is certainly peculiar to the 
 Rhine valley, it is not equally certain, but highly probable, 
 that it is indigenous to it. For it possesses all properties for 
 successful growth and maturation in that part. Being a small 
 vine, its fruit is developed near the soil, and receives its radia- 
 tion of heat ; its bunch is not large, its grapes also of small 
 size, with little juice and much acid, with hardy skins capable 
 of withstanding inclemencies of the seasons ; and with great 
 ability to ripen late in the year while hanging on the vine 
 almost to the beginning of winter frosts. It is in the valley 
 of the Rhine only that it attains the qualities which give 
 high flavour to its wine. In any hotter climate, such as 
 Hungary or Styria, it becomes excessively sweet, less acid, 
 its wine assumes quite different quaUties, being alcoholic and 
 of fiery taste, without almost any of the bouquet which 
 distinguishes Rhine wine. 
 
 The bunch of the Riessling is small and not very regular. 
 
5SO VINES IN THE RHEINGA U. [chap. 
 
 its stalk is short and thick. The berries are very equal, 
 round, not very juicy, of a light yellow colour, with greenish 
 sap-vessels, black points distributed over the husk, and 
 transparent. When very ripe it assumes a rose-red hue. 
 During the last ripening the stalks dry and shrivel, and the 
 bunches frequently fall to the ground. 
 
 The leaves of the Riessling are dark green, thick and rough. 
 The appearance of the entire plant is mostly vigorous and 
 striking, but not large or luxuriant. 
 
 Some peculiarities in the ripening of the Riessling grape 
 we have given in detail in the general chapter concerning the 
 ripening of grapes, p. 37. We have shown that the propor- 
 tion of acid to juice diminishes by an increase in the amount 
 of juice and sugar, but that the total quantity of acid in a 
 grape is probably the same at maturity as a month before, 
 and that, therefore, the formation of sugar cannot be assumed 
 to have taken place at the expense of the acid present. 
 
 Of other vines, we have in the Rheingau a small number 
 of the Elbliiig, or Albe, the Pedro Ximenez of the Xeres 
 district. This vine is used to cover railings which form the 
 enclosures of vineyards. In the district of Ellfeld the 
 Elbling is mixed with the Riessling in the vineyard. It 
 occurs yet frequently between Riidesheim and Assmanns- 
 hausen. The Traminer also is cultivated, but it is found 
 to yield bad wood and to cease bearing, and is not likely to 
 become more frequent. At the so-called Riidesheimer Berg, 
 particularly its southern and south-western declivities, the 
 general vine is the green Orleans or Riidesheim Orleans or 
 Hartheinsch, a very late grape, which would not get ripe in 
 any except the very best and warmest situations of the 
 Rhine valley. From this particular grape, therefore, is 
 derived the peculiar flavour and taste of the Rudesheim 
 wine, which must be well distinguished from the bouquet of 
 the Riessling wine, and experience its own appreciation. 
 The Scharlachberger wine is also made of the Orleans grape. 
 In later years there has been a tendency to abandon this 
 grape and substitute Riessling. But this seems Httle judicious 
 because the Orleans vine grows well in the rocky soil is 
 
XVII.] GENERAL CONDITION OF THE RHEINGAU. 551 
 
 an abundant bearer of large-graped massive bunches, and 
 attains an age of fifty years and upwards, qualities in none 
 of which the Riessling becomes its equal. 
 
 Assmannshausen differs in many respects from the rest 
 of the Rheingau, as we shall see when treating of its 
 peculiarities in detail. The vines there cultivated also differ 
 at once from those grown higher up. Only few vineyards 
 with red, blue, or black grapes occur in the upper part of 
 the Gau. But at Assmannshausen the black Burgundy vine 
 or the Pineau is grown frequently, and gives the red wine 
 for which this place is known. In many vineyards white 
 grapes grow mixed with the black ones. The dominant 
 white-graped vine is the Kleinberger, a variety of the Elbling 
 or Ximenes grape, distinguished from this by a more incised 
 and more serrated leaf, and by a number of small berries 
 occurring amongst the larger grapes, whence its name, 
 " small-berried," is derived. Mixed with these are a few 
 true Elbling vines and a number of the variety termed 
 " Valtelliner." 
 
 GENERAL CONDITION OF THE RHEINGAU. 
 
 The cultivation of the vineyards is determined not only by 
 the relative wealth of the proprietors, but by other natural 
 and insuperable conditions. The vine must be manured ; 
 manure can only be obtained by the keeping of cattle ; 
 cattle must be fed. Now it is with regard to this latter point 
 that the difficulty arises. There is very little meadow ground 
 in the Rheingau, and the general agricultural surface is also 
 limited, consequently everybody is obliged to husband all 
 herbaceous products to the utmost. All weeds and cuttings 
 from the vineyards are used for fodder, and too often weeds 
 are allowed to damage the main crop of wine, because they 
 are wanted for the very sustenance of animals. Here the 
 rational practice of manuring by mineral means would be 
 more applicable than anywhere else. It is necessary to 
 consider these conditions in forming oneself a picture of 
 the state of the Rheingau. Populous as it is, it lacks an 
 agricultural substratum of fodder-production, and this en- 
 
552 
 
 HOCHHEIM. [chap. 
 
 genders a one-sided reliance upon viticulture, which in bad 
 years produces great want. Good years, on the other hand, 
 make up for the losses of many years ; and the last few years 
 having been generally good, everything in the Rheingau now 
 is prosperous, and the prices of vineyards enormous. Of 
 course, here, as in every wine country, there is much grown 
 or produced that is not nectar, and a traveller going through 
 the Rheingau will in inns and hotels get as sour and bad 
 wine, as any that one can drink in the inns or hotels of the 
 wine-producing parts of France, the Bourgogne, Maconnais, 
 or Beaujolais. This arises from the fact, that all better wines 
 go to the near towns, particularly Mayence and Frankfort, 
 and thence into the general trade," so that at Leipzig and 
 Hamburg it is easy to get a good and genuine bottle of 
 Rtidesheimer, while at Riidesheim itself that is difficult. 
 
 WINES OF THE LOWER MAINE, OR OF HOCHHEIM. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY AND SOIL. 
 Hochheim is a village situated on the northern side of the 
 Maine, about three-quarters of a mile (English) from the 
 banks of that river, loo feet above its level, and about three 
 miles above its confluence with the Rhine.^ Its vineyards 
 extend for two miles along the northern bank of the river, on 
 an incline of from 4° to S". Their area is nearly 1,000 morgen, 
 of 160 ruthen each. The Taunus railway, from Wiesbaden to 
 Frankfort, passes through nearly their entire length. The 
 exposition of the vineyards east of Hochheim is exactly 
 southerly, that of the vineyards towards Maye-nce south- 
 westerly. With the exception of those called Domdechanei 
 and Stein, which are respectively protected towards the north 
 by a high church and the houses of the village, the vineyards 
 
 1 In a printed book on geography, which was given to the children of one of us 
 in the school to which they had been sent, occurred the following catechization :— 
 "C'««. For what is Germany remarkable?— ^;m. Because Hock grows there, 
 and the sloth lives on trees. Ques. Where does Ilock grow 'i—Ans. At Hock- 
 stadt in Suabia." The author of this catechism stated on its title that he was a 
 clergyman and a member of the university of Oxford. 
 
XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY AND SOIL. 553 
 
 have no protection whatever against the north wind, which is 
 free to strike the vines in its course from the mountain towards 
 the Rhine valley. It is therefore difficult accurately to define 
 the conditions which produce so excellent a wine as that in 
 the majority of the best reputed situations. The most im- 
 portant share seems to be due to the proximity of the river, 
 which reflects the rays of the sun, and acts beneficially by the 
 masses of warm water passing by. At least the vineyards 
 gain in quality and price with their proximity to the water's 
 edge. The " Kohlkaute," with an inclination of from 8° to 10°, 
 is close upon the river. The " Lattenberg," and the " HoUe," 
 with an inclination of 15°, and the " Gohltz," and " Wand- 
 kaute,'' are so near to the Maine, that when the river becomes 
 swollen by rains many vines are under water. 
 
 The best vineyard is the " Dechanei," or deanery, which is 
 ten morgen in extent, and has an inclination of only a few 
 degrees. The so-called Church-piece, south of the church, 
 yields the best wines, for which, in good years, prices up to 
 £600 per piece (Rhenish) are obtained. The " Stein " is 
 the eastern continuation of the Dechanei, and yields wines 
 which are sometimes said to surpass the best Steinberg and 
 Riidesheim products. The comparison was made in the 
 cellars of the Duke of Nassau, to whom these vineyards 
 lately belonged. They are now the King of Prussia's, who 
 happily rules, not only at Hochheim, but in the whole of the 
 Rheingau. 
 
 The soil of the vineyards is generally a grey calcareous 
 loam or clay-soil, with which higher up some gravel is mixed. 
 The gravel appears as a layer of from one to two feet in 
 thickness on the side towards Mayence, but rests always upon 
 marl or loam, and no solid rock is struck in any part of the 
 vine plantations. 
 
 The preparation for a new plantation always consists in a 
 grubbing up of the soil to the depth of nearly three feet, and 
 a subsequent fallowing for some years, during which clover 
 and other fodder plants are grown. This preparation is 
 essential to the success of new plantations, as the upper soil 
 is exhausted by the cultivation of centuries, and the subsoil 
 
554 PLANTING AND TRAINING [chap. 
 
 requires time and the action of the atmospheriha to open up 
 its mineral ingredients to the roots of plants. A piece of 
 land therefore comes rarely into full bearing in a shorter time 
 than from seven to ten years after the grubbing. We have 
 already in the general part shown the disadvantages of this 
 practice, and the means for its improvement. 
 
 Planting and training of Vines. — When the ground is pre- 
 pared the cuttings are planted. They are ripe canes of the 
 last season, without any second year's wood. They are cut 
 in February and March, and buried in the earth. In 
 April they are placed in water, in the cellar or any other 
 cool place, and planted in May. A hole is made in the 
 ground with an iron rod, the cane inserted, and loose fine 
 earth is run into the hole. Three such canes, planted at 
 distances of less than six inches from each other, form what 
 is termed a plant, in German " stock."^ The head of the cane 
 in the middle is marked and protected from injury by a 
 small stake. The " stocke " are planted in rows a little more 
 than a yard distant from each other, parallel with the 
 meridian, and the vines of each row alternate in position with 
 those of the two rows on each side, so that all the vines of 
 the even rows stand in one series of latitudes, and the vines 
 of the uneven ones in another set. 
 
 The canes shoot in the first year branches of from one to 
 one and a half feet in length. In the second year these 
 shoots are allowed to grow without being cut. The three or 
 four first eyes never grow secondary branches in that year, 
 but remain dormant. In the third spring all the branches are 
 cut off with the exception of half an inch of wood containing 
 the dormant eyes. The earth is removed from the young 
 plant, and all the roots of the upper node, which are termed 
 dew-roots or day-roots, are cut off. The young vines are 
 protected by stakes. When the vines shoot they are in- 
 spected, and only two branches left to each vine, and fixed to 
 the stakes. In the fourth spring the weakest shoot is cut 
 away entirely, and the strongest is shortened to two eyes. In 
 the fifth spring the lowest cane is left with three eyes, and all 
 the rest cut away. In the sixth' spring the plantation is for 
 
XVII.] OF VINES AT HOCHHEIM. 555 
 
 the first time prepared for bearing. The vine has now 
 generally three good canes, of which the lowest is left with 
 three eyes, while the last one is cut so as to retain ei^t or 
 nine eyes. Of each stock or set only two canes are used. 
 The third individual plant is cut short and kept to growing 
 wood during the year. The two long canes are then fixed to 
 the stakes in the form of bows. Of these stakes, two are 
 generally taken for each treble plant, but as each stake, which 
 is placed equidistant between two " stocke " is made to carry 
 the end of one of the bows of each "stock," the canes of each 
 treble stock are fixed (by means of osiers) to three stakes. 
 
 This arrangement affords to the vine-dresser the oppor- 
 tunity of so dressing each vine that its capabilities are fully 
 consulted. If it is weak in the wood, it is cut back, if it is 
 strong, good long canes are left. Some exhaust the bearing 
 power of the vine by the appropriate length of the bows, and 
 do not allow the short wood to bear too many grapes, because 
 the grapes of the bows are less juicy, and less inclined to rot, 
 than the more vigorous and watery grapes of the short wood, 
 stump, or " knot." It is, however, probable that this opinion 
 rests on the circumstance that the grapes from the short wood 
 ripen earlier than the higher-hanging grapes of the bows. 
 They should be collected earlier than those from the bows. 
 When a vineyard is thus arranged for the season, it is one of 
 the finest sights of field cultivation that can be witnessed. 
 Everywhere the pleasing order of straight lines and geo- 
 metrical arrangement, everywhere accuracy and neatness, and 
 a fine comminution of the soil like that of the best-tended 
 garden, nowhere weeds or disorder. It is clear that all 
 human ingenuity can do has been effected to secure the 
 ■condition of a fine produce. 
 
 As soon as the young shoots are developed, and the forma- 
 tion of flowers or •" appearances " Scheine is completed, all 
 superfluous growth is removed one joint above the last flower. 
 This shortening is, however, not inflicted upon those shoots 
 which are intended to give bows for the next year. These are 
 left to grow freely. After the blooming all the shoots are tied 
 up to the stakes with straw. When the grapes begin to ripen, 
 
556 VINTAGE AT HOCHHEIM. [CHAP, 
 
 the superfluous shoots, and all the wood rising higher than to 
 within a foot of the upper end of the stake, is cut off. The 
 soil is once more worked and weeded, and all preparations for 
 the season are brought to an end, for the vineyards of the 
 whole district are now closed until harvest-time, and not 
 allowed to be visited by anybody except the members ,of the 
 rural police. These keep watch against thieves and birds, 
 and frighten the latter by repeated discharges of musketry. 
 
 The vintage is performed with particular care, and appears 
 to be the most important part of the whole process of viti- 
 culture. It is negligently performed only by those of small 
 property and means, to the great detriment of their interest 
 and the deterioration of the produce generally. But the 
 intelligent cultivators proceed as follows : — The commission 
 having determined the day of the general vintage, a special 
 inspection is held on the morning of that day, and, when the 
 grapes are free from dew, a sign with the church-bell opens 
 the vineyards. In case it should rain, however, the vineyards 
 are not opened at all. Those who want to select, or make an 
 "Auslese" as it is called, cut only the ripe grapes or the 
 sweet rotten ones, leaving those less mature, and the vineyard 
 is marked as not cleared. But those who are less careful cut 
 all grapes and carry them away. As soon as this general 
 vintage is over, the vineyards are again closed for ten days or 
 a fortnight, when another vintage is effected. Here also many 
 make a selection, and leave what wants or can bear improve- 
 ment for another ten days, when the vintage is finally com- 
 pleted. This may be the middle or end of October, nay even 
 the first days of November. 
 
 The proper degree of ripeness of the Riessling berry is 
 recognized by the following signs :— The berry must be light 
 brown and transparent, but not green; the kernels must be 
 brown, and not white or light-coloured ; the taste must be 
 burning, sweet, and accompanied with the peculiarly strong 
 flavour of the Riessling ; the stalk must be shrivelled and 
 dried like that of raisins. 
 
 During this ripening, many berries, and parts of grapes, or 
 entire grapes, drop to the ground. All these are carefully 
 
XVII.] ELLFELD {OR ELTVILLE). 557 
 
 collected by means of pins or otherwise,. and added to the cut 
 fruit. It is'related that in the year 1775 nearly all the grapes 
 lay rotting on the ground, and that one scarcely deemed it 
 worth his while to collect them. These, however, yielded a 
 wine which, after some time, was recognized to be the best 
 growth that had been obtained in fifty years. 
 
 Vinification. — The grapes are generally trodden by men, in 
 pails with a perforated bottom. In this process the husks are 
 transformed into a pulp. The stalks are never separated, as 
 their dry state effectually prevents the extraction of any 
 tannic acid from them. The trodden mass is allowed to 
 stand for twenty-four hours, and is then pressed in the ordi- 
 nary wooden screw-press. The juice is put into the casks 
 and allowed to ferment without any peculiar apparatus or 
 precaution. The rest of the care of the wine does not mate- 
 rially differ from that bestowed in other parts. The bungs 
 of the casks are very long, and always inimersed in the wine. 
 Four or five years are generally sufficient to make the wine ripe 
 for bottling, after which it improves sensibly for many years. 
 
 ELLFELD (OR ELTVILLE). 
 
 This, the largest village in the Rheingau, is situated upon 
 the bank of the river, and has a very extended viticulture. 
 Its vineyards are situated to the north of the village towards 
 the mountain. The most important position is the incline 
 towards the river of a long ridge, running parallel with the 
 river, about 100 feet above its level, and having a general 
 exposure of south-south-east. The whole formation is a pro- 
 duct of great masses of water, which must have come from 
 the mountain. Its eastern side is loam, the southern declivity 
 gravel, and the western clay. The best vineyards are the 
 upper and middle " Sonnenberg ; " then follow the " Sterzel," 
 and " narrow way," which are situated lower and more 
 towards the village. The south-western side of the ridge 
 passes into a valley which runs towards Rauenthal, and 
 here are the favoured positions of "Miinchnach" and the 
 "grey stone." The rest of the vineyards are of the third 
 and fourth class only. 
 
558 ELLFELD {OR ELTVILLE). [chap. 
 
 The mode of planting the vine is the same as at Hochheim, 
 small differences excepted. Thus at EUfeld the "stock" 
 consists mostly of four plants or footings ; and if there are 
 objections to the Hochheim treble stock, these of course apply 
 ■with .still greater force to the EUfeld quadruple stock. It 
 would be better to distribute the plants evenly than to crowd 
 them, even though the tilling of the soil by spade and hoe 
 should be made a little more difficult thereby. The fourth foot, 
 the weakest among the set, is, however, frequently cut away. 
 The EUfeld vine-dressers also make the planting-canes a little 
 too long — namely, two feet, while one and a half feet would be 
 amply sufficient ; they thus carry the lowest roots near upon 
 hard basal unturned soil ; in wet years the lowest roots are 
 thus in the region of the greatest amount of water, and the 
 vines quickly get sick. The roots of many of them die, and 
 the vines having to rely upon the middle set of roots, all dew- 
 roots being cut away, are insufficiently nourished and languish. 
 Entire vineyards are thus exposed to unnecessary risks, which 
 if they end in' loss, damage the proprietor and enhance the 
 price of the products of the other vineyards to the consumer. 
 
 The more intelligent and wealthy proprietors avoid fallow- 
 ing, grub very deep, and plant the new ground with rooted 
 vines. Thus time is saved, and the young vines are not 
 exposed to the mishaps just mentioned. 
 
 The rest of the cultivation is the same as at Hochheim. 
 The vine cultivated in good situations is the Riessling exclu- 
 sively. In the inferior situations and the lower positions the 
 Elbling is intermixed with the Riessling. The Traminer has 
 been tried, but although favourable at first, it ceased to pro- 
 duce bearing-wood after a few years, and has gone out. 
 
 The vintage is here carried on as at Hochheim. Up to the 
 year 1822 the people were compelled to harvest on the official 
 day, because the paternal government took the tithes in 
 natural products. Only then the influential proprietors suc- 
 ceeded in effecting a sufficient amount of liberation from this 
 oppression, to be allowed to harvest at repeated intervals, as 
 at Hochheim. 
 
XVII.] RAUENTHAL AND KIEDRICH. 559 
 
 RAUENTHAL. 
 
 The vineyards of Rauenthal are situated upon the side of a 
 long hill, which appears to be placed across the opening of a 
 large mountain valley. The inchne of the hill is very uneven 
 and undulating in all directions. It therefore offers many 
 exposures, and produces different qualities of wine. 
 
 The soil consists of disintegrated clay schist, and therefore 
 contains many fragments of quartz. The east of the hill, 
 termed " Nonnenberg " and " Rothenberg," has much loam. 
 The best situations have a southerly and south-westerly expo- 
 sure, such as the amphitheatrical "Gehren and Kesselring," 
 and the "Wisshell," both with from 20° to 25° inclination. 
 The " Geierstein " has 30° inclination, very stony soil, and 
 is the extreme efld of the good positions. From it the hill 
 turns northwards, and, in the valley which it helps forming, 
 only inferior wine is produced. 
 
 The cultivation of the vine is difficult, owing to the inclina- 
 tion and soil. The entire Rauenthalerberg was a forest up to 
 the year 1626, when it was transformed into vineyards. Each 
 rood of land was then charged with an annual impost of one 
 pint of wine, which has remained the same during 300 years, 
 and some years ago amounted in the whole Berg to 8 pieces 
 4 ohms. 
 
 On the vertex of the Rauenthalerberg is an ultimate emi- 
 nence of white quartzy sandstone, where there was formerly 
 a chapel. From this point one of the most beautiful views of 
 the Rhine valley and Rheingau can be obtained, which vies in 
 magnificence with that obtained on the Niederwald, above 
 Riidesheim. No mountains obstruct the view on any side, 
 and as it is situated in the very centre of the Rheingau, it is a 
 place which the peregrine oenophilist should visit himself, and 
 recommend others to frequent. 
 
 KIEDRICH. 
 
 The vineyards of Kiedrich are situated about three miles 
 from the Rhine, on the slope of the beginnings of the moun- 
 tain. Their principal situation is the " Graefenberg," a vine- 
 
56o THE STEINBERG [chap. 
 
 yard which formerly belonged to the convent of Eberbach, 
 and is now in the hands of private parties. Another very good 
 situation is the " Mittelberg." Cultivation, plants, and vintage 
 are here the same as everywhere in the Rheingau. The 
 Riessling is, however, not kept so pure, and one sees much 
 '' Elbling '' mixed with it. 
 
 THE STEINBERG. 
 
 This is the most famous vineyard of Germany, and one 
 of the grandest establishments that can be imagined. Its 
 administration, and the treatment of its produce, are simply 
 perfect. It was formerly the property of the convent of 
 Eberbach, and the visitor having seen all that belongs to the 
 establishment, can form an idea of the amount of the pious 
 gifts of worldly goods which the believing mass of the people 
 must have placed in the hands of the monks, to enable them 
 to form and keep such costly works. The Steinberg, after 
 the secularization, became a Nassovian domain, and is now 
 public property of Prussia. 
 
 The Steinberg is a hill about three miles distant from the 
 Rhine. It is a long oval of about eighty morgen surface, and 
 forms one uninterrupted vineyard, all of which is enclosed with 
 a thick wall, twelve feet high, and protected from the weather 
 by a roof of timber and slate. On the eastern side towards 
 the convent the wall is pierced by a great number of doors, 
 through which the produce is carried to the convent. The 
 entire vineyard is separated in two halves by a carriage-way 
 running through its length, and into several divisions by ways 
 running at right angles to this main road. All parts of the 
 plantation can thus be reached by means of horse and cart. 
 The northern part is situated near to, and partly surrounded 
 by, the forest, which, of course, produces some climatic disad- 
 vantage. But the high mountains immediately behind ward 
 off any far reaching north wind, and the high wall, together 
 with the natural south-westerly inclination, keep out the east 
 wind. The entire vineyard is most scientifically drained by 
 means of drains of masonry, which are below the lowest reach 
 of the roots of the vines. The whole is ornamented with two 
 
XVII.] AND ITS FARM. S^i 
 
 pavilions, which impart some animation to the otherwise 
 somewhat monotonous scenery. In short, all artifices are 
 here united to gain from a naturally favourable soil the 
 utmost quality and value. 
 
 But the vineyard itself is only one-half of the agency by 
 which such excellence is produced. The other half is the 
 farm at the foot of the vineyard, which is kept for the sole 
 object of producing the necessary manure for the vineyard. 
 To this farm there are attached 200 morgen of meadow land, 
 and 400 morgen of arable land; Besides, there are furnished 
 to the farm 12,000 trusses of straw. One hundred and six- 
 teen head of cattle are kept, besides the draught animals, and 
 the entire amount of manure thus produced, namely a thousand 
 so-called double-carts full, each being equal to a load for two 
 horses, or twenty-four cubic feet, is annually carried into the 
 vineyards. Each morgen of vineyard receives every three years 
 forty such double-carts full, each double-cart being distributed 
 to sixty-four vines, so that the entire quantity of manure pro- 
 duced is barely sufficient, and sometimes supplemented by 
 bought manure. The farm-buildings are situated at the 
 lowest end of the vineyard, and surrounded with a wall, which 
 is pierced by gates leading into the vineyard, so that the farm 
 carts can enter the vineyard directly from the farmyard. 
 
 It will thus be seen that the Steinberg wine is virtually the 
 product of 680 morgen of land, and not of the 80 morgen 
 of vineyard only. But more and worse has to be related. 
 The farmer or farmers (for sometimes there are two of them) 
 are bound to buy all the manure they want for meadows and 
 fields, in the neighbourhood or in the towns on the Rhine. The 
 producing power, or mineral manure of a great number of 
 small proprietors, who want money, and do not understand 
 that in their manure they are selling a piece of their soil, is 
 thus, through the practice of ages, being gradually transferred 
 into the Steinberg vineyard. This must produce a constantly 
 increasing contrast between the products of the general 
 country around, and the all-absorbing great property. 
 
 The Steinberg vineyard appears, when seen from a dis- 
 tance, to be an even plain, but on close inspection this 
 
 O O 
 
562 PLANTING AND TRAINING. [chap. 
 
 illusion is dissipated. It has various undulations and hollows, 
 by which it is divided into districts yielding different produce. 
 Of these, three are particularly famous and reputed to yield 
 the best wine, namely, "the golden beaker," " the garden of 
 roses," and the " planzer." The latter yielded the best piece 
 of cabinet wine in the famous year 1819. These hollows 
 are situated in the very centre of the entire vineyard, are 
 open towards the south-west, and enjoy particular protection 
 by the higher parts of the vine-bearing land. Their soil is 
 a talcy clay, resting, upon the clay schist, of which it is 
 the product of disintegration. Contiguous to the golden 
 beaker is the " Friedrichshohe,'' which forms the highest 
 point of the vineyard, and towards the north abuts upon the 
 forest-covered heights. This district, about two morgen in 
 extent, was some years ago stocked partly with Riessling, 
 partly with Traminer ; but as the latter did not fulfil the 
 expectations that had been formed of them, they have again 
 been removed. Their non-success was probably due to the 
 want of caution in planting them in the highest part, while 
 their peculiarity would have required the lowest situation. 
 
 Mode of Planting and Training. — The lines of the vines do 
 not run with the meridian, but are directed to the south-west. 
 The plantation is the same as at Hochheim and Ellfeld. The 
 work is performed by specially appointed vine-dressers, called 
 " Weinbergs-Hofleute." They work, however, by contract, 
 and after special instructions. We have a copy of these in- 
 structions^ and find them a most accurate and intelligible 
 short guide to viticulture adapted to the Rheingau. 
 
 The summer treatment is very simple, thinning of the 
 herbage being effected only at the base of the vine; no 
 shoots from the bows are shortened, but everything is left to 
 free development and tied up to the stake. The canes as- 
 sume a length of 10 to 15 feet, and are only shortened down 
 to five or six feet when they assume a brown colour. This 
 treatment produces small-berried loose grapes, which do not 
 rot so easily, and admit the air better; they are thus 
 qualified to hang longer upon the plant, and assume the 
 utmost possible degree of ripeness. These small-berried 
 
XVII.] VINIFICATION. 563 
 
 grapes have given rise to the opinion that there are two kinds 
 of Riessling, the small and the large. But it is easy to trans- 
 form the small Riessling into the large, by short pruning 
 and manure, and by thinning the herbage, and breaking 
 the shoots above the grapes, and on the other hand, to trans- 
 form the large Riessling into the small, by leaving it uncut, or 
 with much wood, and by allowing it to grow rank and in all 
 directions. Such a treatment has the same effect upon many, 
 probably all, varieties of vines and grapes. 
 
 The Vintage of Steinberg is now, since the experience of 
 the year 1822, always very late. In that year, the month of 
 October being dry, the superintendent risked for the first time 
 to let all grapes get into the state of sweet rottenness, and 
 great was the dismay of the Duke of Nassau and his family, 
 when they arrived to assist at the harvest, and found not a 
 single grape fit to be eaten. But when the wines made from 
 these grapes came to the hammer, they realized prices which 
 astonished everybody. In ordinary years there are two or 
 three selections of grapes, the first selection giving the best 
 wine (Auslese). The rest of the grapes hang ten or fifteen 
 days longer, and are then collected. The selection is made by 
 experienced vine-dressers only. All grapes must be free 
 from dew ; all grapes which are lying on the ground are 
 picked up, and all single berries are picked up with the aid 
 of long needles, which the vine-dressers carry attached to a 
 button-hole by a string. 
 
 Vinification. — The squashing of the grapes was formerly 
 effected at Steinberg, as in the whole Rheingau, by means of 
 so-called grape mills. But it was found that these machines 
 did not sufficiently break up the husks, in which the principles 
 are contained which give to the wine the bouquet, and the 
 mills were consequently abandoned. The grapes are now 
 trodden by men, as at Hochheim, wearing long boots, called 
 wine-boots, made and kept for that purpose only. The 
 boots have heavy soles, and are strongly fortified with 
 iron nails. The treading is effected in a pail with a perfo- 
 rated bottom, which is fixed upon another larger pail; this 
 latter receives the juice trickling through the holes, and when 
 
 002 
 
564 THE PRESS-HOUSE. [chap. 
 
 the comminution is completed, the entire pulp is removed 
 into it through the large bung-hole in the centre of the 
 perforated bottom. At the side of the board, by means of 
 which the upper pail is secured upon the lower, a boot-jack 
 is fixed, so that the boots may be taken off immediately, and 
 not touch the ground under any circumstances. 
 
 The stalks are never separated from the berries ; for it 
 has been shown by repeated experiments that they do not 
 communicate any taste to the wine, as they are in a state of 
 dryness, and remain so in the must even if it should be left 
 standing for some hours or an entire day. In the year 1833 
 the entire vintage was unstalked, and the berries pressed by 
 themselves ; the stalks and what adhered to them yielded, on 
 pressing, 2 pieces of wine, the berries, 56. The wine from the 
 stalks was at first rough, but it improved later considerably, 
 "and was sold at ;^5o per piece. The average sale price of the 
 56 pieces of berry wine was £6"^ per piece. It was therefore 
 estimated that the presence of the stalks in the pulp produced 
 so small a depreciation of the entire vintage, and that their 
 removal was, on the other hand, so troublesome and costly, 
 that it was determined henceforth to leave stalks and grapes 
 together, as of old. 
 
 The Press-house. — The press-house and cellars are at the 
 former convent of Eberbach. The monks finding their church 
 too small, built a larger one, and devoted the old building to 
 the service of Bacchus. Where before stood the altar, they 
 now placed ten magnificent wooden wine-presses, of colossal 
 form, great durability, and splendid materials. The rest of 
 the church was filled with pails, baskets, vats, and countless 
 apparatus, to be used at vintage time. The church is kept in 
 the same state now. The wine-boots, filled with oats and 
 well greased, are hung up on the wall to await their autumnal 
 occupation. 
 
 Opposite this church is a smaller hall, with cross vaults and 
 stone pillars. Here there are put up three presses with iron 
 screws, in which the cabinet wines are pressed. 
 
 Close to this latter hall is the so-called Cabinet, where the 
 cabinet wines are kept. This is a vault above ground, but 
 
XVII.] THE ANNUAL SALE BY AUCTION. 565 
 
 protected by double walls and by trees and shrubs from the 
 external heat of the atmosphere and rays of the sun. It has 
 therefore the same equable temperature as the best vault 
 underground. In very hot weather it is, however, kept cool 
 by the floor being sprinkled with water, for which purpose 
 a special pump has been arranged in the cabinet itself 
 
 On another- side of the small pressing-hall is a large hall, in 
 which the new pieces or casks are kept and prepared for the 
 reception of the vintage of each year. All wine which is not 
 kept in the cabinet is placed in the large beautiful cellar, and 
 there prepared for sale. 
 
 The annual Sale by Auction.— \-!\ every year, at the time in 
 spring when wines are usually racked from the lees, there 
 is a public sale of Steinberger wine at Erbach. The day of 
 this sale is a great public festivity for the people of the 
 Rheingau, and the wine merchants of Mayence and Frank- 
 fort. Each stranger arriving at Erbach, whether he be a 
 buyer or not, is treated to a dinner and a liberal allowance of 
 good wine, cabinet-wines being served with the dessert. There 
 is, consequently, a great confluence of the curious and idle, 
 besides the actual men of business and their friends, to par- 
 take of the judicious hospitality of the Government. It is 
 judicious, for the animated people buy with more readiness, 
 and the sale goes off amidst general merriment and satisfaction. 
 
 The auction wine is sold in pieces of 7^ ohms each = 1,200 
 litres, and the price bid carries the cask. But the cabinet ' 
 wine is also sold by private arrangement, in smaller quantities 
 and frequently in bottle at high prices. 
 
 At the auction, the wine not only of the Steinberg, but also 
 that of other domainial vineyards, such as those of Hatten- 
 heim, is sold. As the Steinberg produce amounts in some 
 years to 84 pieces, from 120 to 150 pieces may now and then 
 be sold together at one auction. 
 
 There can be no doubt that if, on the one hand, the Stein- 
 berg vineyards have consumed much of the manure of the 
 Rheingau, they have, on the other hand, greatly raised the 
 reputation, and consequently the monej'-value, of Rhine wine 
 in general. 
 
566 HATTENHEIM, OESTRICH, WINKEL. [CHAP. 
 
 The price of Steinberg wine varies from £6^ per piece to 
 ^600 and ^700 ; the latter being the most exceptional and 
 finest cabinet wines. 
 
 There are many villages at the foot of the mountain with 
 good vineyards, such as Hallgarten and Vollraths, all of which 
 have the usual vines and modes of training. The more 
 important situations, however, are nearer towards the Rhine. 
 Thus between Erbach and Hattenheim the celebrated Marco- 
 brunner grows close to the Rhine. 
 
 The vineyard of Marcobrunn, the best growth in the com- 
 mune of Erbach, abuts upon the highway, and is traversed by 
 the railway, which runs a few hundred feet from the border of 
 the Rhine. Its exposure is southwards, inclining a little to 
 the west ; it rises at angles to the horizontal, varying between 
 5° and 8°, and attains a total height of 60 feet above the 
 level of the highway. Its general conformation is that of 
 a flat basin. The upper part of the Marcobrunn is called 
 "Silzberg,'' the nearest vineyard towards Hattenheim "Mann- 
 warth," to which are joined in the direction of Hattenheim the 
 " Nussbrunnen," " Stabel," and " Hasselt." The district of 
 Marcobrunn proper has a clay soil, and is only 23 morgen in 
 extent, of which 14 belong to the Nassau domains, and the 
 other 9 to the Count Schonborn. The wine grown nearest 
 to the highway is the best. In the middle of the front of the 
 vineyard towards the highway there is a niche, from which 
 through an iron tube a cool and clear spring of water gushes 
 forth ; it is possible that this circumstance gave the name to 
 the situation. The "Nussbrunnen" vineyard, somewhat higher 
 and more towards Hattenheim, has a similar spring. 
 
 Hattenheim, Oestrich, Winkel. — Hattenheim has some 
 excellent vineyards, stretching for some distance westward 
 of the village. Such are the " Engelmannsberg," with 
 15° of inclination, the " Willborn " and the " Schutzen- 
 hauschen," with from 10° to 15° of inclination and south-west 
 exposure. 
 
 In many of our researches on the general characters of the 
 average of good Rhine wines we employed a Hattenheimer 
 Engelmannsberg, vintage 1862, with a magnificent bouquet, 
 
XVII.] THE JOHANNISBERG. 567 
 
 great body, and medium alcoholicity. Its somewhat promi- 
 nent acidity and a trace of opalescence were due to its 
 youth, and became diminished by rest in bottle. This wine 
 would have sold in the trade at about ;^i8 the ohm. 
 
 From Hattenheim, passing Oestrich, Mittelheim and Winkel, 
 the entire country is undulating until it reaches the Johannis- 
 berg, and rises but feebly and slowly towards the mountain 
 in the north. This entire flat basin is an enormous vineyard, 
 six miles English long and three miles broad, but as its expo- 
 sitions vary considerably, the qualities of their growth are 
 also different. The culture of the vine is the same as that 
 which is general in the Gau. The Riessling vine predomi- 
 nates, but in the lower parts there is yet much " Elbling," old 
 vineyards having up to one-half of their plants of the latter 
 variety. In former times entire vineyards were planted with 
 the Elbling exclusively. In the last years some Traminer 
 plantations have been made. 
 
 THE JOHANNISBERG. 
 
 The Johannisberg is a conical hill, projected from the Taunus 
 mountain to within about a mile of the river Rhine. Its 
 highest point is occupied by the castle, and rises about 150 
 feet above the level of the Rhine. The vineyards surrounding 
 the hill on several sides have south-easterly, southerly, and 
 south-westerly exposures. The inclination varies considerably, 
 and determines great varieties in the quality of the produce. 
 The six morgen of vineyards at the foot of the southern 
 declivity, termed the Klausenberg, have only a feeble inclina- 
 tion, and produce the least valuable wine, while the Lange- 
 berg, in the middle of the southern exposure, with 21° of 
 inclination, produces the second best wine. The Oberberg is 
 the upper third of the vineyards immediately surrounding 
 the castle; its inclination varies between 9° and 18°, and 
 owing to the protection afforded by the high castle against 
 northerly and easterly winds, and the reflection of the rays of 
 the sun from its surface, produces the best wine on the estate. 
 
 The Johannisberg was originally a Benedictine Abbey, 
 founded in 1106 by Ruthard, Bishop of Mayence. The 
 
568 THE JOHANNISBERG. [cHAP. 
 
 property and prerogatives of this convent were so much in- 
 creased in the course of 200 years, that it played an impor- 
 tant part in the history of the middle Rhenish countries. 
 Through wars and adverse circumstances of various kinds, the 
 Johannisberg changed proprietors frequently, and was at last 
 bought in 1 7 1 7 by the Abbot of Fulda, Adalbert von Walder- 
 dorf, who built the present castle. At the time of the French 
 Revolution the Johannisberg, by some means or other, came 
 into the hands of the then Prince of Orange, but it was again 
 taken from him after the battle of Jena, and given by 
 Napoleon to Marshal Kellermann. In 1815 the Emperor of 
 Austria took possession of it, and on August i, 1816,. gave it 
 to Prince Metternich, with whose descendant it now remains. 
 The proprietor, however, pays annual wine-tithes to the 
 Imperial House of Hapsburg. 
 
 This property has 62 morgen of vineyards, which are 
 manured by the entire produce of a farm of 450 morgen of 
 arable land and 70 morgen of meadow land, a provision which 
 we have already considered when describing the Steinberg. 
 The manure wanted for fertilising the 520 morgen of farm 
 land is bought from the small proprietors in the neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 As the soil is very different in the various parts of the 
 vineyards, owing to the geological conformation which the 
 Johannisberg has in common with most of the hills of the 
 Rheingau, and which we have already sketched in the para- 
 graph on topography, these parts are marked off by white- 
 coloured stakes, with numbers affixed. The cultivation and 
 the vintage are specially adapted to the particular condition 
 of each part. 
 
 The cultivation is that which is usual in the Rheingau, and 
 which we have described in the general part. We have 
 perused the printed instructions which the steward gives to 
 the twelve vine-dressers of the estate, and have found them 
 clear and intelligible. The selection of grapes is made with the 
 utmost care. From the 17th to the 20th of October, there is 
 frequently a first " auslese," in those portions of the vineyard 
 where the grapes are most advanced. The hours are mostly 
 
XVII.] THE JOHANNISBERG. 569 
 
 between 12 and 4 P.M. Frequently the best berries of each 
 vine are picked out and united, and the rest is thrown with 
 the general harvest. This troublesome business is rewarded 
 by excellent produce ; the fermented must is frequently rich 
 in sugar. Indeed, such wine loses the character of Rhine- 
 wine, and acquires some resemblance to the finest Muscat. 
 
 In the year 1834, the blooming of the vine passed over very 
 quickly and satisfactorily, and the sweet rottenness of the 
 grapes occurred very uniformly. No " auslese '' was conse- 
 quently made, but all grapes were cut at the same time. 
 However, the rotten berries were all collected separately, and 
 those which were sound were collected by themselves. All 
 berries on the ground were picked up with steel dinner forks. 
 The rotten grapes gave the first, the sound but perfectly ripe 
 grapes the second quality of wine. 
 
 It is related that the advantage of the late vintage was dis- 
 covered by the accident, that the Bishop of Fulda, in 1775, 
 having received the report of his steward, forgot to send the 
 customary order for the vintage. This was, therefore, deferred 
 until, after nearly all the grapes were rotten, the frightened 
 steward obtained the permission through an express mes- 
 senger. The wine was, against all expectation, found to be 
 of unprecedented quality, and the lesson was remembered 
 ever after. 
 
 The press-house contains four presses. The cellar is 
 situated under the entire castle, and has therefore, like that, 
 a long front and two side wings running northwards. The 
 entrance to the cellar is at the western wing by a large wide 
 staircase. A portion of the cellar on the left contains store 
 bottles, boxes, and all requisites for packing bottles which are 
 to be sent to a distance. Contiguous to that is the room in 
 which the bottles are filled and packed. Each cork shows the 
 brand of the Metternich arms ; after it has been inserted in the 
 bottle, it is sealed over, and the wax is again impressed with 
 the same coat of arms. A label stating the name, year, and 
 price of the wine is now fixed upon each bottle ; the bottle is 
 wrapped in paper and surrounded with straw. Fifty or a 
 hundred such bottles are now placed in a box and packed 
 
570 THE JOHANNISBERG. [chap. 
 
 very tightly, the packers actually jumping with their feet on 
 the top of the straw in the boxes, and so ramming the bottles 
 down that the spectator is afraid for the safety of the 
 bottles and their precious contents. 
 
 The entrance to the main cellar is on the right. This cellar 
 is a great vault, containing upwards of one hundred pieces, in 
 three rows ; between the middle row and the two outer rows 
 are two passages of sufficient width to admit of a piece being 
 conveniently rolled through. 
 
 The quantity of wine produced varies considerably with the 
 years. Thus, 1817 gave 48 ; 1818, 47; and 18 19, 52 pieces, of 
 wine. In 1831 only 25 pieces were obtained from 43 morgen in 
 active bearing, while in 1833 the same surface yielded 57 pieces. 
 The wines of less good years, and all inferior qualities, are 
 sold immediately after the spring racking, by auction, and 
 only the select qualities are kept in the cellar. At the age of 
 four or five years, the time of their maturity in the cask, they 
 are bottled. The wines after that improve greatly in bouquet, 
 and keep twenty-five years. No doubt a fine bottle of mature 
 Johannisberg Castle is, by the fulness of its taste and the mass 
 of its bouquet, the finest and most powerful drink on earth. 
 A piece of such wine fetches from ;^500 to £1,000, and in 
 some cases even higher prices have been paid. But the 
 auction wines have nothing like that value, and vary between 
 £^0 and £100, according to the qualities which they possess 
 for mixing. 
 
 The racking of young wines from rotten grapes is effected 
 by means of air-pressure pumps and hoses, in order to avoid 
 contact with air, which imparts to such wine a dark colour. 
 Such a dark colour is a great objection to Rhine wine, as it 
 produces the suspicion, only too well founded in the case of 
 many dark-coloured wines, that it is an artificial product. 
 The finest Rhine wines are therefore always kept very pale, 
 and any operation which would destroy this peculiarity, even 
 if it would be otherwise innocent and beneficial, is carefully 
 avoided. 
 
 To the east of— and almost at the same elevation as — 
 Johannisberg Castle, is the property of M. Mumm, a well- 
 
XVII.] GEISENHEIM. 571 
 
 known wine-merchant of Frankfort, consisting of a fine house 
 and large vineyards, with easterly exposure. 
 
 The western side of the Johannisberg passes into a 
 mountain side of 20° inclination, which leads to the village 
 of Johannisberg, situated about a quarter of a mile to 
 the north from the castle. Yet this exposure gives good 
 wine.. To the north of this village is a somewhat higher hill, 
 with a hollow on its plateau, called the " Johannisberger 
 Hohle." Very good wine is here produced, which would rival 
 the Johannisberg Castle, if it had the same antecedents of 
 cultivation and preparation. But the entire hollow is 'divided 
 into a large number of small holdings, which prevents all 
 selection, and thus causes an annual loss of good wine to 
 the cenophilists, while the proprietors get much less than 
 they might. 
 
 Still more to the north, in the side of the actual mountain, 
 some enterprising people have dug a hole of 12 morgen out 
 of the mere rock, surrounded it with a great wall after the 
 pattern of the Steinberg, and covered it with three feet of 
 earth brought up from the valley, or down from the mountain. 
 This enterprise took ten years, and vast sums for its comple- 
 tion. We have learned no particulars about the wines which 
 it produces, and surmise that they are of the quality of the 
 wines of the village, and go with the general throng of Johan- 
 nisberg wines into the cellars of knowing and the stomachs 
 of enthusiastic people. It is, perhaps, owing to its excavated 
 origin that the plantation has been termed " the Dachsberg." 
 
 GEISENHEIM. 
 From the Johannisberg towards Geisenheim extends a decli- 
 vity with southerly exposition, the best situations of which 
 are termed " Morschberg," " Lickerstein," and " Hoher Rech." 
 Near Geisenheim the " Rothe Berg " or red hill projects, much 
 like the Johannisberg. It has the general geological con- 
 formation of all similar hills, consisting of clay-schist, and 
 being covered on the east by loam, on the western declivity 
 by red clay. Its inclination is about 20°. The majority of 
 the vineyards belong to Count Ingelheim. 
 
S72 
 
 RUDESHEIM. [chap. 
 
 The products of the various parts of the " Rothe Berg " are 
 very varying in quality. The southerly and south-westerly 
 side of the hill produce splendid wine, while at the foot of the 
 north-west side, within a few hundred steps of the former, 
 there is a vineyard which yields the worst wine of the whole 
 district. On the plateau of the hill there also grows but 
 inferior wine. 
 
 The " Rothe Berg " is connected with the district of Riides- 
 heim by a continued vineyard, situated partly on inclines, 
 partly in flat hollows. One of the latter, the " Kirchgriibe," 
 is reputed to be a good situation. 
 
 RUDESHEIM. 
 
 The vineyards of Riidesheim begin at Eibingen and termi- 
 nate at the Bingerloch. Their inclination begins to increase 
 from Eibingen, where they have iO°, to the Riidesheim Berg, 
 where 35° and 40° is the average. The exposure is purely 
 southerly ; on the north they are protected from winds by the 
 high mountains behind, and the westerly winds are broken by 
 the mountains on the other side of the Nahe. The direct rays 
 of the sun fall almost at right angles upon the soil, and the 
 heat is increased by the reflection from the broad surface of 
 the river. 
 
 The vineyards nearest to Eibingen are called the "Wiiste," 
 " Bokhaus," and " Tafel," the higher situation towards the 
 forest in the north, the " Oberfeld." All these are planted 
 with the Riessling. 
 
 The vineyards nearest to Riidesheim are termed " Hinter- 
 haus," or " behind the house," have a purely southerly ex- 
 posure, and are built up in many terraces, with an average 
 incHnation of 20°. The contiguous '' Rottland " is a more 
 undulating territory, with many little bogs, hollows, and 
 terraces. These vineyards appear from a distance like a 
 gigantic staircase ; they are planted with Riessling. 
 
 The greater part of the Rudesheim vineyards is called the 
 " Riidesheimer Berg.'' This has an area of upwards of 400 
 morgen, an inclination of from 30° to 36° southerly exposure. 
 
XVII.] RUDESHEIM. 573 
 
 and is the best situation in Rudesheim. The soil is the dis- 
 integrated clay-schist, with a little earth, and the vineyards 
 look so stony that one does not comprehend however the 
 vines exist and luxuriate. The stones are thrown upon heaps 
 in many places, and long so-called stone-rossels, or cairns, run 
 from the top to the bottom of the mountain. The best parts 
 of the Berg are those situated between the middle of the 
 declivity and the border of the river. The Nassau Govern- 
 ment planted some vineyards here at great expense, and 
 Count Ingelheim possesses the vineyard termed the " Kater- 
 loch." The mere plantation of a morgen of vineyard, with 
 the grubbing and removal of the stones, costs from i^6oo to 
 £yoo. As many as 7,000 cart-loads of stones have now and 
 then been built up into cairns, or removed, to make room for 
 the vines. Whatever may be the quality of the vine, it is 
 certain that cheap wine cannot be obtained from vineyards 
 the plantation and cultivation of which is so difficult and 
 expensive. At the old castle of Ehrenfels, which is a con- 
 spicuous ruin just above the Bingerloch, the inclination of 
 the territory is 70°. This is the highest inclination of any vine- 
 yard in Germany, and equalled only by the steep inclines at 
 Winningen on the Moselle, at Besigheim upon the Neckar, 
 and at Werthheim upon the Maine. Of course this inclina- 
 tion has to be broken by many terrace-walls of from 12 to 20 
 feet in height, and the earth above these walls has only 20° to 
 25° inclination. 
 
 The entire Berg is traversed by a gradually-ascending 
 carriage-road, which has bays for turning or siding every 300 
 paces. This road is kept in order by the proprietors abutting 
 upon it, and is cleared, smoothed, and repaired every autumn 
 just before the harvest. 
 
 The vines cultivated on the Berg are Riessling, with a 
 sprinkling of Orleans. The plantation of the latter is ascribed 
 to Charlemagne, who, so goes the fable, on seeing from his 
 castle at Ingelheim, on a March day, the snow disappearing 
 from the Rudesheimer Berg, while the rest of the country 
 all round remained yet white, ordered vines to be brought 
 from the south of France and to be planted on the Berg. It 
 
574 ASSMANNSHAUSEN. [CHAP. 
 
 is, however, more probable that this particular Orleans or 
 Hartheinsch was selected for this stony soil on account of its 
 great vegetating power. 
 
 ASSMANNSHAUSEN. 
 
 This is the " ultima Thule " of the Rheingau, of which it 
 yet preserves the general type, but changed in various parti- 
 culars. The vines are grown somewhat higher, reminding of 
 the Moselle, where the high cultivation is carried to an un- 
 fortunate excess. The set of vines is of a more mixed 
 character, the vineyards for white wine being planted with 
 the small-berried Elbling, mixed with Trollinger and Valte- 
 liner, those for red wine with the great black Burgundy grape, 
 the />{j I can noir. 
 
 The generality of the Assmannshausen vineyards has a 
 westerly aspect ; one particular section, however, which is 
 situated in a narrow valley running from east to west, the 
 Hollenberg, has a number of southerly exposures. This 
 entire situation was a Nassau domain, but the upper part of 
 twenty-seven morgen was sold to Count Bassenheim, while 
 the Nassau Government only retained the lower and best 
 part of eighteen morgen. 
 
 The soil is throughout decayed clay-schist, and very stony. 
 The plantations are difficult, and require many walls and 
 great labour. 
 
 The white wine of Assmannshausen has no particular 
 qualities or reputation. It is, however, otherwise with the 
 red wine, which has acquired somewhat of a name. We will 
 therefore consider its preparation a little more in detail, in 
 order to appreciate the better its deficiencies and good 
 qualities. 
 
 The private proprietors proceed in the following manner. 
 They crush the grapes with wooden clubs, and then put the 
 entire mass into vats. Many such vats are made of piece 
 casks cut in two through the middle, or entire piece casks 
 from which the top has been removed. During the first 
 violent fermentation the rising husks and stalks are pushed 
 down about twice every day, at a later period once daily. 
 
xvil.j ASSMANNSHAUSEN. 575 
 
 When the fermentation is complete, the wine is drawn off, the 
 residue put into the press, and all fluid is united. 
 
 The stewards of the Nassau domains, however, observe 
 greater precautions. In the first instance the grapes are 
 allowed to hang until they begin to shrivel a little, but they 
 are not permitted to get rotten; for, although this might 
 make the wine more sweet and spirituous, yet it would 
 deteriorate its colour, and therefore one of its main charac- 
 teristics. All rotten grapes are therefore carefully kept out 
 of the vintage. The grapes are carried to Riidesheim and 
 there treated as follows: — The berries are separated from the 
 stalks, by being stirred about with a stiff broom in a sieve of 
 iron wire placed over a vat. They are then trodden in detail 
 by men with wine-boots, or pounded with wooden club.s, until 
 reduced to a pasty mass. This mass is then put into the 
 fermenting vats. The wine rises nearly to the top, but the 
 husks are kept in the fluid by a perforated wooden dia- 
 phragm, which is fixed in the upper third of the vat. After 
 fermentation the wine is drawn off through the tap at the 
 bottom, which is guarded inside by a strainer ; the husks are 
 pressed, and the pressed wine united with the previously 
 drawn wine. This red wine is mostly kept in smaller casks 
 of two and four ohms each ; it is racked from the lees in March, 
 and, after four or six weeks of rest, sold by auction. 
 
 The banks of the Rhine from Assmannshausen to Coblentz 
 have many vineyards, but no very good situations. Amongst 
 the villages which produce wine is Bacharach. In this village 
 there was an interesting httle inn "To the golden cork-screw," 
 where good wine was sold. Some travelling artists of Diissel- 
 dorff commemorated their approval of the wine which was 
 served to them, by painting a great and showy shield in oil 
 colours upon the wall of the principal wine-room. The names 
 of other villages producing some wine are Manubach, Caub, 
 Oberwesel (celebrated amongst Rhine-tourists by its echo), 
 Steeg, Diebach, Weinsberg, Damscheid, Perscheid, Langscheid, 
 and Dellhofen. These cultivate Riessling, often mixed with 
 the small-berried Elbling (Lorch has Elbling only) : in other 
 parts some Pineau is grown. 
 
576 
 
 AREA OF VINEYARDS 
 
 [chap. 
 
 AREA OF VINEYARDS IN BEARING IN THE FORMER 
 DUCHY, NOW PRUSSIAN PROVINCE, OF NASSAU. 
 
 The areas are here given in old Nassau " morgen," con- 
 taining each i6o square " ruthen " (or Nassau roods). The 
 present Nassau land measure is a morgen, of loO ruthen of 
 lOO square feet each, equal therefore to 10,000 feet = 2,500 
 square metres, or 25 French ares. (Law of Dec. 12, 185 1, and 
 March 18, 1853.) 
 
 I. AMT OF 
 
 BRAUBACl-I. 
 
 
 AMT ST. GOARSHAUSEN, COKtd. 
 
 
 Morgen. Ruthen. 
 
 Morgen. Ruthen 
 
 Braubach 
 
 . 215 
 
 154 
 
 Brought foiTvard . 675 145 
 
 Camp . 
 
 354 
 
 «9 
 
 Lierschied . . ■ 33 76 
 
 Filsen . 
 
 . . 38 
 
 40 
 
 Nieder & Ober-Kestert . 124 81 
 
 Nieder-Lahnstein 
 
 . 191 
 
 134 
 
 Nochein . . . 42 10 
 
 Nievern 
 
 . . 63 
 
 95 
 
 Patersberg . , • 35 98 
 
 Ober-Lahnstein 
 
 . 207 
 
 159 
 
 Wellmich , . . 64 25 
 
 Osterspay 
 
 . . 78 
 
 6i 
 
 
 1,141 
 
 92 
 
 11. AMT F.LTVILLE OR 
 
 ELLFELD. 
 
 Eltville (EUfeld) . 
 
 469 
 
 126 
 
 Erbach . 
 
 377 
 
 60 
 
 Hallgarten . 
 
 . 280 
 
 122 
 
 Hattenlieim . 
 
 368 
 
 128 
 
 Kiedrich 
 
 223 
 
 9S 
 
 Mittelheira . 
 
 211 
 
 S2 
 
 Neudorf 
 
 17s 
 
 63 
 
 Nieder-Walluf 
 
 118 
 
 72 
 
 Ober-Walluf . 
 
 ■ 38 
 
 57 
 
 Oestrich 
 
 5.39 
 
 104 
 
 Rauenthal 
 
 . 26^ 
 
 53 
 
 3,066 132 
 
 in. AMT ST. GOARSHAUSEN. 
 
 Bornich 
 Caub . 
 Dorschcid 
 
 • "5 
 
 • 303 
 
 • 55 
 
 81 
 10 
 
 44 
 
 Elirenthal 
 
 . 28 
 
 •55 
 
 St. Goarshausen 
 
 • 173 
 
 '5 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 675 
 
 145 
 
 975 "5 
 
 IV. AMT HOCHHEIM. 
 
 Delkenheim . 
 
 66 
 
 112 
 
 Diedenbergen 
 
 75 
 
 156 
 
 Florsheim 
 
 259 
 
 55 
 
 Hochheim 
 
 904 
 
 97 
 
 Igstadt . 
 
 41 
 
 3 
 
 Massenheim . 
 
 69 
 
 98 
 
 Nordenstadt . 
 
 86 
 
 75 
 
 Wallau . 
 
 83 
 
 126 
 
 Wicker . 
 
 196 
 
 128 
 
 1,779 50 
 
 V. AMT HOCHST. 
 Hoflieim , . . . 80 86 
 
 VI. AMT NASSAU. 
 Bad Ems 
 
 Dausenau . , 
 Dinunthal 
 Nassau . 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 r. 
 39 
 
 44 
 
 79 
 
 51 
 
 8 
 
 157 
 
 109 
 
 96 
 
 237 28 
 
xvn.] 
 
 IN THE PRO VJNCE OF NASSA U. 
 
 577 
 
 AMT NASSAU, Continued. 
 
 VIII. AMT RUNKEL. 
 
 
 Morgen. 
 
 Ruthen. 
 
 
 Morgen. 
 
 Ruthei 
 
 Brought forward 237 
 
 28 
 
 Rimkel 
 
 ■ 23 
 
 S\ 
 
 Obemhof . 
 
 • 41 
 
 47 
 
 Schadeck . 
 
 ■ 14 
 
 P4 
 
 Scheuern . 
 
 • 17 
 
 151 
 
 Villmar . 
 
 4 
 
 I5Q 
 
 Weinahr 
 
 • 23 
 
 131 
 
 
 42 
 
 147 
 
 
 320 
 
 37 
 
 
 IX. AMI 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 
 VII. AMT RiJDESHEIM. 
 
 
 
 Assmannshausen 
 
 . 204 
 
 65 
 
 Frauenstein 
 
 . 126 
 
 93 
 
 Aulhausen 
 
 . 22 
 
 42 
 
 Schierstein 
 
 166 
 
 46 
 
 Eibingen . 
 
 ■ 249 
 
 "3 
 
 Wiesbaden 
 
 ■ 47 
 
 92 
 
 
 . 627 
 
 70 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Johannisberg 
 
 . 226 
 
 • 544 
 
 60 
 
 5 
 
 
 340 
 
 71 
 
 Lorch 
 
 
 
 Lorchhausen 
 
 . 196 
 
 135 
 
 
 
 
 Riidesheim 
 
 • 567 
 
 70 
 
 X. AMT 
 
 KONIGSTEIN. 
 
 
 Winkel 
 
 • 493 
 
 68 
 
 Altenhain . 
 Neuenhain 
 
 86 
 
 
 
 3.140 
 
 148 
 
 
 RECAPITULATION. 
 
 Braubach 
 
 Eltville (EUfeld) 
 
 St. Goarshausen 
 
 Hochheim 
 
 Hochst 
 
 Nassau 
 
 Riidesheim 
 
 Runkel 
 
 Wiesbaden 
 
 Konigstein 
 
 Total 
 
 Morgen. 
 
 Ruthen 
 
 1,141 
 
 92 
 
 . . . 3,066 
 
 132 
 
 975 
 
 IIS 
 
 ■ 1,779 
 
 50 
 
 80 
 
 86 
 
 320 
 
 37 
 
 3, 140 
 
 148 
 
 42 
 
 147 
 
 340 
 
 71 
 
 86 
 
 — 
 
 10,974 
 
 78 
 
 p p 
 
578 
 
 THE MOSELLE AND ITS WINES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Tabular View of the Proportion in per cents, which the Vines planted 
 in the Ten Divisions of Nassau bear to each other. 
 
 No. 
 
 Names of Aemter. 
 
 Biess- 
 ling. 
 
 Orleans. 
 
 Trami- 
 
 ner. 
 
 Oester- 
 reicher. 
 
 Klein- 
 berger. 
 
 Mixed 
 vines. 
 
 Pineau 
 Klebroth. 
 
 Early 
 Bur- 
 gundy. 
 
 I. 
 
 2. 
 3- 
 4- 
 
 5- 
 6. 
 
 9- 
 
 lO. 
 
 Eltville . 
 Rudesheim 
 Hochheim 
 Wiesbaden 
 Runkel . 
 Nassau 
 Braubach . 
 St. Goarshn. 
 Hochst . 
 Konigstein 
 
 92-8 
 
 42 '4 
 66-2 
 
 69-6 
 
 37 
 
 1-6 
 
 2-4 
 
 10-9 
 
 46-5 
 
 24 
 
 01 
 
 I '2 
 
 0-8 
 4-1 
 3'i 
 I '4 
 
 1-4 
 0-5 
 
 S-2 
 1-9 
 
 30-1 
 17-5 
 
 3-8 
 17-8 
 86-5 
 23-3 
 
 o-l 
 
 5 '4 
 
 25-1 
 66-8 
 62-9 
 
 39 -S 
 
 0-4 
 
 107 
 
 97 
 15-2 
 
 17-4 
 
 0-2 
 
 41 
 o-i 
 
 100 -0 
 
 59-1 
 
 3-6 
 
 II 
 
 0-4 
 0-2 
 O-I 
 08 
 
 2-4 
 
 1 1 -2 
 O-I 
 
 2-6 
 II-6 
 
 Total Nassau 
 
 50-9 08 
 
 2-2 
 
 8-9 
 
 i6-3 
 
 i6-9 
 
 2-5 
 
 I -5 
 
 RHENISH MEASURES OF CAPACITY. 
 
 The new (1851) Nassau ohm is 160 litres; the piece 
 "Stuck" is ']\ ohms, or 1,200 litres ; the same measures for 
 wine obtain in Hesse Darmstadt and Baden. The Frankfort 
 ohm, however, by which wine is commonly sold to England, 
 is only 143-41 litres, or 31-56 imperial gallons. Eight ohms 
 equal ta one Stuck, equal to 1,152 litres (calcul. 1147-28) 
 equal to 640 Frankfort maas. The Palatinate fuder is 
 1000 litres. There are no barrels of that capacity in use, 
 but sales are generally made at per fuder, as the stores are 
 mostly kept in very large casks. 
 
 THE WINES OF THE MOSELLE. 
 
 Topography. — The Moselle issues from the western slopes 
 of the Vosges, and unites with the Saar near Trier. It 
 then runs nearly northward with many windings, and flows 
 into the Rhine near Coblentz. Its valley is deeply cut 
 through tlie Hundsriick mountain on the right, and the 
 Eifel on the left bank. Its undulating banks in Lorraine, 
 like those of the Saar, are mostly covered with vines, and, as 
 
XVII.] TOPOGRAPHY. 579 
 
 we learned from ocular inspection, most frequently with the 
 blue Burgundy grape ; but that part of its bank from Trier to 
 Cochem mostly bears white grapes. The valley of this river 
 forms an immense contrast to the high plateaux on both sides 
 of it. These latter are mostly cold and sterile, and covered 
 only by a vegetation of stunted growth. The banks of the 
 valley are rich green, and have a mild climate, and 
 all southerly exposures are covered with the vine. The 
 depth of this valley is from 200 to 300 feet, and the 
 rocks frequently come so near to the edge of the water, 
 that there is not even a path left by the side of it, and the 
 only communication up and down the river is in many 
 parts the river itself In consequence of this narrowness, 
 many of the towns, such as Cochem, are nothing but long 
 strips of houses built along the water's edge. Wherever a 
 little river flows from the side into the Moselle, a small town 
 or village is sure to be found. 
 
 The exposures favourable to the growth of the vine are 
 mostly produced by the long windings of the river which it 
 makes from west to east and from east to west, the expanse 
 of which can be estimated from the following consideration. 
 From Trier to Coblentz the distance in a straight line is about 
 ninety English miles, while the windings of the river are nearly 
 double that length. The bend which the Moselle makes at 
 Graach and Zeltingen affords a southerly exposure of three 
 miles in length on the left bank. 
 
 The southerly exposure at the bend at Piesport and Braune- 
 berg is a mile and a half in length, and situated on the left 
 bank of the 'Moselle. All banks which have a northerly 
 exposure are covered with forest, which gives to the river this 
 peculiar character — that forest and vineyard are frequently 
 close together, and frequently alternate the one with the 
 other. The inclinations of the vineyards along the whole 
 river are very steep, changing between 20° and 40°. They 
 are least considerable at Piesport, but at Brauneberg they 
 amount to 30°, until at Winningen they reach to 45° and 
 upwards. This latter place is the last in the direction 
 of Coblentz. The vineyards of Winningen rise immediately 
 
 V V 2 
 
58o VINES AND CULTIVATION [CHAP. 
 
 from the river to a height of about 300 feet. They are 
 interrupted by many terraces and by large blocks of rock, 
 and present such a peculiarly wild aspect, that the spectator 
 hardly comprehends how the cultivators of the vine could 
 dig the ground, bring up the earth, and carry the manure. 
 We learn that these vineyards are real productions of art, 
 inasmuch as they were the result of blasting operations 
 carried out at the instance of the community of Winningen, 
 by engineer officers of the garrison of Coblentz. 
 
 The foundation of the soil in the whole of the Moselle valley 
 from Trier to Coblentz is a kind of clay schist of bluish grey, 
 greenish black, and reddish colour. The rock is frequently 
 permeated by veins of white quartz. In many parts the schist 
 is transformed into the black slate here called "lay," with 
 which all buildings without exception along the Moselle are 
 covered. 
 
 Tlie cultivated soil itself consists of disintegrated clay schist 
 with many fragments of quartz. The fragments are sometimes 
 rolled by river action, and then the soil of the vineyards 
 resembles to some extent that which one so frequently sees 
 in the Medoc. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES AND MODES OF CULTIVATION PRE- 
 VAILING ALONG THE MOSELLE. 
 
 Along the banks of the river, frequently twining round 
 trees, there are many varieties of wild vines, probably indi- 
 genous to the part where they grow. Of the cultivated 
 varieties, however, only one seems to be indigenous to the 
 Moselle, and that is the albuelis of Columella, or Elbling or 
 Kleinberger, which is reported to have been carried by 
 Ausonius to the Gironde, and thence by Pedro Ximenes to 
 Xeres, so that (what perhaps no one who drank them side by 
 side would ever guess). Moselle and Sherry wines are to 
 some extent made of one and the same grape. The Elbling 
 occurs along the whole Moselle, and frequently prevails over 
 the Riessling, but the Riessling is everywhere mixed with it. 
 At- Piesport, Brauneberg, Oligsburg, Zeltingen, and Trarbach, 
 
XVII.] 
 
 PREVAILING ALONG THE MOSELLE. 
 
 581 
 
 Fig. 79. — Vine trained according to 
 the method, recently adopted in 
 Lorraine, in. full bearing. All 
 branches are lopped off two joints 
 above the la^t bUnch. No long 
 canes are allowed to grow. {Sys- 
 teme Trouilles.) 
 
 there are vineyards with nothing but Riessling. Of this vine 
 
 there are said to occur two varieties in these parts, one with 
 
 red, the other with green stalks. Here and there along the 
 
 Moselle are vineyards with the 
 
 Burgundy grape. At Pie.sport and 
 
 Kersten more red wine is already 
 
 made, and in the neighbourhood 
 
 of Cobern, Cochem, Garden, and 
 
 a few other places of the lower 
 
 Moselle, much red wine is grown, 
 
 so that the Burgundy grape can 
 
 be said to be the prevailing kind. 
 
 The dressing of the vine offers 
 many peculiarities along the Mo- 
 selle. There are on the steep 
 inclines many vineyards belonging 
 
 to poor people, which are cultivated upon the so-called 
 " hedge " principle ; that is to say, the vines are cut, but for 
 the rest they are allowed to lie on the ground, and to grow as 
 best they may. The produce of these vineyards is not of 
 sufficient value to pay the cost of cultivation, including sticks 
 for supporting the vines ; but the better cultivated vineyards 
 offer a singular aspect, which is not frequently met with in any 
 other vine-growing country. They have jpore the appearance 
 of hop-gardens than of vineyards. Around 
 an enormous pole fixed in the ground from 
 four to eight canes are attached in the manner 
 in which birch is fixed to a broom. The 
 canes are bent backwards and downwards at 
 three different places, being two, three, and 
 four feet above the ground. In fact, as much 
 wood as the vine can produce is left upon 
 the vine ; and there have been instances 
 where a cultivator has dismissed his vine- 
 dressers because they did not leave enough 
 wood to satisfy his greed for quantity of produce. Now, it is 
 very well known that the nearer a vine grows to the ground the 
 better its grapes will mature and the more developed they 
 
 Fig. 80. — Vine prun-;d 
 according to the 
 method recently 
 adopted in Lorraine. 
 The pruning in the 
 Herault, Aude, and 
 Lot is exactly the 
 samOjbut the summer 
 dressing is different. 
 
582 
 
 DRESSING OF THE VINE. 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 will become, and that the higher it rises above the ground 
 the more it is exposed to the winds, and the less it is struck 
 by the radiating heat which is rebounded from the soil, and 
 consequently the more its grapes are liable not to ripen at all, 
 but to remain acid and useless fruit. It is this attention to 
 low cultivation — to the keeping of the grape in the closest 
 proximity to the soil — which produces the excellence of the 
 wines of the Rheingau, of the Medoc, and of the Champagne. 
 
 FtG. 8i. — Right, A vine as grown at Pagny in the Meurthe (Department of the 
 Moselle) : one fruit-branch and one wood-branch only. Z^e/i, Vine with one bent cane 
 for fruit, and a spur for wood, as grown at Pagny. 
 
 But here on the Moselle this experience is in many parts com- 
 pletely set aside, and accordingly we find the produce of this 
 particular cultivation to yield sour, thin, and tasteless wine. 
 We are aware that there are single proprietors who cultivate 
 their vineyards upon the best principles recognized along the 
 Rhine, but they are few and far between. There is no doubt 
 that the production of the wine along the Moselle could be 
 frequently improved by the adoption of better methods of 
 cultivation. 
 
XVII.] CHARACTERS OF MOSELLE WINE. 583 
 
 THE VINTAGE. 
 
 There has hitherto been along the Moselle the old detri- 
 mental vintage ban. The town or village council determined 
 the time at which the vintage should begin and cease. There 
 was no selection of grapes, no removal of unripe or rotten 
 berries. The grapes were crushed in the vineyards in pails 
 and other vessels, carried home, and allowed to «tand until 
 they could be pressed. The must was then fermented in the 
 usual way. 
 
 CHARACTERS OF MOSELLE WINE. 
 
 The general character of Moselle wine is that of thin Rhine 
 wine, but it never has as much flavour as even the thinnest 
 of those wines. It matures quickly, and does not possess the 
 keeping qualities of Rhine wine. Owing to the natural want 
 of flavour the producers of Moselle and the merchants in their 
 track have devised an artificial flavour, which imitates to a 
 certain extent the flavour of wine made from the muscatel 
 grape. This is the tincture of the flowers of the elder shrub. 
 Of this tincture, or " Essence of Muscatel," large quantities 
 are annually made along the Rhine and Moselle, and used for 
 the production of the peculiar bouquet, particularly in " Spark- 
 ling Moselle." The tincture is made as follows : The little elder 
 flowers are cut from the bunches and infused with pure strong 
 spirit of wine. After twenty-four hours' standing the spirit is 
 drawn off and filtered. It may now again be infused upon 
 new elder-flowers, and this process repeated several times, 
 according to the strength which it is desired to give to the 
 essence. Much care has to be bestowed upon the filtration of 
 the essence to make it clear. Of this tincture a small quantity 
 is added to common Rhine wine or Moselle, whereupon it 
 assumes the peculiar flavour, which anyone conversant with 
 the process of its production recognizes at once. It must be 
 declared with emphasis, that there is not a grape of muscatel 
 grown upon the Moselle fit for wine-making ; that there 
 is not a single barrel of wine made there which naturally has 
 the muscatel flavour ; and that all the wine having the flavour 
 
584 CHARACTERS OF MOSELLE WINE. . [chap. 
 
 which imitates it, is made up with tincture of elder-flowers. 
 Much of the tincture is imported as such into England, 
 and there used. Much of the " Moselle with the muscatel 
 flavour" sold in England is Rhine wine flavoured with 
 elder-flowers. 
 
 There can be no objection to the use of this tincture, 
 provided that it be known to the consumer that he pays for 
 elder-flower, and not for muscatel. Elder-flower is in no way- 
 prejudicial to health, and has from time immemorial been 
 used to make a high-flavoured tea for the treatment of slight 
 indispositions. 
 
 It is a singular circumstance that with such a cultivation 
 of the vine as we have above seen, and with the production 
 thereby of such a mass of undrinkable liquid, the Moselle 
 should nevertheless have obtained the reputation for good 
 wine, and that particularly in England ; while in Germany 
 few persons would drink Moselle as a matter of choice, but 
 only as a matter of economy. Some persons no doubt drink 
 Moselle wines from a kind of tradition, which can only have 
 been the result of the importation of wines from a few of the 
 best situations in times gone by. Others drink it at the 
 bidding of their medical advisers, which may be judicious, 
 provided it is based upon better arguments than the recom- 
 mendation of Dr. Meurer. This author thinks that " the 
 undeniable fact of longevity amongst the inhabitants of the 
 Moselle districts may well be considered a convincing proof 
 of the excellent influence of its wines." Of course this 
 " undeniable fact " is not based upon any statistics, and 
 consequently the impression which the sentence might con- 
 vey, that the average duration of life amongst the inhabit- 
 ants of the Moselle valley was longer than elsewhere, would 
 be quite erroneous. But even if it were so, new proof 
 would be required to show that this had any connection 
 whatever with wine drinking. No such proof has been 
 furnished by the doctor, and we venture to believe will 
 never be forthcoming. Having assured us that " stone and 
 similar diseases " are entirely unknown in the Moselle dis- 
 trict. Dr. Meurer maintains that they could be cured by 
 
XVII.] CHARACTERS OF MOSELLE WINE. 585 
 
 Moselle wine. For the floating of this assertion he evidently 
 calculated upon the lay public, for every medical reader 
 would repudiate it, and declare it a baseless absurdity. 
 
 Excluding, then, from our estimate of the Moselle wines 
 all exaggeration of enthusiasts and vendors, we may state 
 them to be, in their natural state, and when of good years 
 and situations, mildly flavoured, acidulous, refreshing drinks, 
 which owing to their low alcoholicity may be taken freely, 
 and will increase the appetite, stimulate the kidneys, and 
 exhilarate the senses without heating blood or brain. This 
 applies to wines not possessing the muscatel flavour, for 
 the addition of this in the shape of elder-flower tincture 
 involves an increase in the alcoholicity. However small 
 that may be, it has to be taken account of 
 
 We should value Moselle wines still higher for use in 
 Great Britain, if they were offered to us at anything like 
 their natural price. But they are sold with an affectation 
 of value, which places them as high as Rhine wine, and 
 which forbids every extension of consumption amongst the 
 middle classes. 
 
 The Sparkling Moselle has a great reputation. Its flavour 
 is more frequently derived from the elder-flower than from 
 the cenanthe. Much of it is made at Coblentz, and large 
 quantities are also manufactured from Rhine wine at 
 Mayence. It is agreeable and acceptable to many. The 
 analysis of a specimen of it by Mohr, obtained from the 
 manufactory of Deinhardt of Coblentz, has been stated 
 on p. 486. 
 
S86 
 
 AREA OF VINEYARDS. 
 
 [chap. XVII. 
 
 AREA OF THE VINEYARDS IN THE PROVINCE OF 
 RHENISH PRUSSIA. 
 
 Governmental 
 Department. 
 
 Aix . . 
 Coblentz . 
 
 Cologne . 
 Trier . 
 
 On the Roar 
 
 On the Rhine . 
 
 „ Moselle 
 
 „ Ahr . 
 
 Nahe . 
 
 On the Rhine . . 
 ., Sieg . . 
 „ Erft . . 
 
 On the Moselle . 
 „ Saar . 
 „ Saur . 
 „ Nied . . 
 „ Rims & Our 
 
 No. of 
 Morgen, 
 
 119 
 
 11,844 
 8.947 
 3.256 
 
 6,666 
 
 3.236 
 108 
 
 11,659 
 
 2,339 
 
 39 
 
 403 
 
 14 
 
 Total 
 
 Totals. 
 
 119 
 
 30.713 
 
 3. 345 
 
 14.454 
 
 48,631 
 
 Of whieh there are on the Moselle 20,606 
 Rhine 15,080 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 THE WINES OF A USTRIA. 
 
 The Wines of Lower Austria: Wines of Kloster Neuburg.^Red wines 
 of Voslau near .Vienna. W(nes and Grapes of Tyrol : Topography. — 
 Varieties of cultivation, Italian and German. — Varieties of vines. — Vinifica- 
 tion. — No Traminer at Tramin. — Tyrolese apples. — The grape-cure at Meran. 
 Wines of Styria : Introduction. — Topography. — Climatic condition. — 
 Social condition of Styria as influencing viticulture. — Soil. — Varieties of 
 vines cultivated. — Mode of planting and cultivating vines. — Vinification in 
 Styria. — Pressing in Styria; German, wendi.sh. — Statistics and nature of the 
 vrine produced. Wines of Croatia: Introduction. — Climate, soil, labour. 
 — Prevailing vines. — Mode of cultivation. — Vintage, cellars, wine. — Exhi- 
 bition of wines at Agram in 1864. Wjnes of Dalmatia : Topography. — A 
 traveller's route. — Vineyards. — Cultivation. — Varieties of vines. — Maraschino 
 wine different from liqueur. — Vintage and vinification. — Wines. — Sale, value 
 and export of wines. Wines of Istkia : Topography. — Viticulture at Trieste, 
 Italian. — Garland, bower, and chamber cultivation. — Varieties of vines. — 
 Vinification. — Viticulture important to shipping. — Piccolo or Hansel. Wines 
 of Gortz : Farming at wine rent. — Effervescent wine from the " ribola"grape. 
 — Picolit, sweet wine. Wines of Bohemia. 
 
 WINES OF LOWER AUSTRIA. 
 
 WINES OF KLOSTER NEUBURG. 
 
 In German Austria the young wine is put into professedly new 
 barrels of very large size, the man-hole doors of which are not 
 pierced. The wine is not drawn from the lees in spring, but 
 is allowed to remain with them until sold and broken. The 
 purchasers do not like to buy casks which have the man- 
 hole doors pierced, from the belief that such a condition of the 
 cask would indicate that the wine had been tampered with. 
 The producers know vtxy well how to avoid this suspicion 
 
588 CONVENT OF NEUBURG. [CHAP. 
 
 by providing every old cask which they use for receiving 
 new wine, or any wine in their cellars, with a new man-hole 
 door which has not been pierced. At the Convent of 
 Neuburg, near Vienna, there are in three cellars, one above 
 the other, a great number of casks of wine containing up 
 to ten fuder. One fuder is equal to thirty-two eimer, or 
 about 1,728 litres. These casks are full of wine, and have 
 no tap-holes, and, although filled ten years and longer, yet 
 contain the first lees. In the year 1840 Bronner tasted wine 
 at Neuburg which had been put into the barrel in the year 
 1822, and not been racked at all. The Austrian viticulturists 
 maintain that wine so kept preserves more of its freshness 
 than if it were racked. We, however, who have had oppor- 
 tunities of tasting a great many Hungarian wines, and wines 
 from the Convent of Neuburg, maintain that this practice will 
 go a long way to explain the shortcomings which almost • 
 every wine of Austria carries with it to England. 
 
 THE RED WINE OF VOSLAU, NEAR VIENNA. 
 
 Two viticultural districts— those of Voslau and Gumpolds- 
 kirchen, in the neighbourhood of Baden, about fifteen 
 EngHsh miles south of Vienna — have, during the last 
 thirty or forty years, obtained some notoriety. The red 
 wine produced in them comes from a particular black grape, 
 called the early blue Portuguese. This is an early ripening, 
 very sweet grape, of somewhat larger size than the Burgundy, 
 and is very much esteemed as an eating grape, on account 
 of its agreeable taste. When properly matured it is bluish- 
 black, and gives a wine of dark colour. It is said to have 
 been imported from Portugal, but we have not been in any 
 way able to substantiate this assertion by positive proofs. 
 The leaf of the vine is five-lobed ; the lobes are not deeply 
 cut out ; the upper surface of the leaf is shiny ; the lower 
 one is smooth, and without any covering. The production 
 of this red wine was a great success in Austria, inasmuch 
 as in the other parts of that empire very little red wine 
 is produced. The cultivation of the grape spread during 
 the last thirty or forty years over a large area. The wines 
 
XVIII.] THE RED WINE OF VUSLA U. 589 
 
 are tolerably well paid for, and reward the producer by their 
 quality of being fit for use in a very short time after they 
 are made, and not requiring a long sojourn in the cellar, an 
 advantage mainly due to the sweet and mild quality of the 
 grape. The other wines of Austria' require to be kept from 
 eight to ten years in barrel before they become drinkable. 
 
 The produce of Voslau is mostly bought by the innkeepers 
 and speculators of Vienna and Baden, in the shape of what is 
 called "gemesch," that is to say, of grapes in a vat crushed 
 by means of wooden stampers. It is difficult to say what 
 process these speculators carry on in order to produce the 
 wine. In some parts of the district where there are larger 
 proprietors, the ordinary methods of separating the berries, 
 crushing them, putting them in vats, drawing the wine at the 
 proper period, and pressing the murk which we know to pre- 
 vail in Burgundy, the Gironde, and on the Rhine, are practised. 
 
 The vine is trained upon a system called head system. 
 The heads are about five or six inches above ground, and of 
 the size of a fist, or twice as large. From- four to six shoots 
 are left every year to ripen, and the remainder are broken off. 
 In spring the wood is cut down to one eye. The only 
 advantage of this practice is that the grapes are kept very 
 near the ground, but they are also kept very small, inas- 
 much as the eyes which are nearest the old wood always 
 produce the smallest grapes, while the second or third eye 
 — the highest eye of the spur — always produces the largest. 
 This mode of cultivation, therefore, produces too much wood 
 and too many leaves, and, although it may produce many, 
 it yields but small grapes. From Voslau these Portuguese 
 vines were transplanted to other parts of Germany, and in 
 many parts of the Wiirtemberg Alps very successful planta- 
 tions have been effected. The wine obtained there pre- 
 serves the qualities of the Voslauer, namely, those of being 
 of a very dark colour, smooth to the taste through the 
 absence of tannin, and very soon fit for use. The soil of 
 Voslau is chalky, and the earth of the vineyards contains 
 many pieces of the chalk rock underneath, in the form of 
 stones. 
 
590 WINES AND GRAPES OF THE TYROL. [chap. 
 
 WINES AND GRAPES OF THE TYROL 
 
 Topography.— Varieties of cultivation, Italian and German. — Varieties of vines. 
 — Vinification. — No Traminer at Tramin. — Tyrolese apples. — The grape-cure 
 at Meran. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 The Tyrol is of interest to physicians as well as the 
 general publid, for here are produced not only good wines 
 but also grapes, which are used as medical agents for the 
 treatment or cure of many ailments. That part of the Tyrol 
 which produces wine is situated along the valley of the Adige, 
 beginning near Verona, and running by Botzen up to Meran. 
 All the slopes of the hills and debouchments of the lateral 
 valleys are employed for that purpose. The valley of the 
 Adige is protected towards the north by high mountains, and 
 represents a kind of basin, over which eastern or western 
 storms have no power, and the slopes of which are most 
 favourable to viticulture. In the bottom of the valley there is 
 a deep loamy alluvial soil. The slopes, where they are not 
 too much inclined, are covered by a fertile somewhat stony 
 soil, being a mixture of chalk, gneiss, and porphyry. Por- 
 phyry soil is preferred for viticulture. Soil, climate, the 
 precipitation of moisture in clear nights, and rains at the 
 proper seasons, unite to produce one of the most splendid 
 vegetations that can be imagined. At Botzen and Meran it 
 may be said that sun and moisture vie in producing the 
 greatest development of the vegetable kingdom compatible 
 with a temperature of the moderate zone. If the traveller 
 ascends the valley of the Adige, he finds that with the Italian 
 language ends the Italian method of viticulture. With the 
 German language which he encounters at Tramin and 
 Neurmarkt, the system called bowers commences, while that 
 of the Italian garlands ceases. For some miles both systems 
 are intermixed, imitating the mixture of the nationalities. 
 The training of the vines on trees continues up to Roveredo. 
 Hence appear the crossed stakes, which we shall describe when 
 speaking of Trieste. The garlands are trained nearer the 
 
XVIII.] 
 
 VARIETIES OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 591 
 
 ground, and the plants close together. At last there are no 
 more twisted ropes or canes, but only single canes stretching 
 from one stake to the other, and further on low frames appear 
 until they are met with only in single rows, between the 
 
 Fig. S-2.—Le/i, Vine trained and pi*uned in the shape called "hofns." Rigki, Vine 
 trained and pruned to the sha^ie called " head-knob," or " willow-tree top." Common 
 in Switzerland and Savoy. (Size one-fifteenth of nature.) 
 
 ordinary fields. The more nearly the valley approaches the 
 forest regions of the mountains, the more wood is employed 
 in the construction of frames. At Tramin, at last, there is 
 nothing seen but the pure bowers, which remain the same to 
 the northern frontiers of the Tyrol, Meran and Brixen. 
 
 Fig. 83, — View of vines trained and Cut to the shape called " head-knob," in full bearing, 
 as seen at Seyssel, Switzerland. (Size reduced to one-thirtythird of nature.) 
 
 This bower training has some advantages. A great quan- 
 tity of wine of the lowest quality is thereby produced. The 
 proprietor is enabled to till his soil under the shadow of his 
 vine during the hottest part of the day, and to grow carrots. 
 
592 GERMAN AND ITALIAN VINES. [chap. 
 
 cabbages, peas, and whatever else will consent to grow under 
 such conditions. In some we have even seen grass and clover. 
 In the neighbourhood of Botzen the proprietors have begun 
 to abandon this method, and have commenced the system 
 of closed vineyards with low plants trained to stakes in the 
 manner of the Rhenish cultivation. These proprietors are all 
 Germans, who cultivate busily, break off the superabundant 
 branches, tie up, and thereby produce better growths ; whereas 
 the Italian vines are always left to themselves, and constantly 
 give to the spectator the impression of wild plants. The 
 varieties of the grapes cultivated in the Tyrol are in the 
 Italian part entirely Italian : in the German part there have 
 hitherto been only large-berried white and blue varieties 
 — among them the Vernatsch. This is a black muscatel, and 
 as such is known in France and Germany. It occurs also 
 under the name of Aleatico ; but in Upper Italy it is known 
 under the name of Vernaculo e Toscana. It has also been 
 termed red Frontignac. This is a tolerably good grape for 
 eating, but requires a very warm climate for ripening, and 
 then produces sugary wines, with the muscatel flavour, — 
 in fact, Frontignac ; but for the production of dry wines, for 
 which it is used in the Tyrol, it is quite unsuitable. Then 
 there is another variety, which the Germans call Geschlafene. 
 And lastly, there is that celebrated, and to all growers of 
 vines in hot-houses, and particularly therefore to English 
 viticulturists, most important vine, which they know under 
 the name of the blue or black Hambro', known in Germany 
 under a variety of names, but most commonly under that of 
 Tirolinger, or the abbreviated Trollinger. The French, who 
 received it from the Palatinate, call it Frankenthal. This is of 
 all eating grapes the most perfect, on account of its having 
 thin husks, small pips, tolerably solid yet juicy flesh, and 
 an agreeable acidity never in excess, mixed with a sufficient 
 amount of sugar, and mild flavour. The bunches are never 
 very large, and not so close that the grapes have not suf- 
 ficient space to develop themselves. The vine is always fertile, 
 and even in bad years its fruit may be used, though, not 
 completely ripe, on account of the moderate amount of 
 
XVIII.] VTNIFICA TION. 593 
 
 acidity. When the grape gets ripe and is allowed to hang a 
 little beyond its actual period of ripeness, it yields a splendid 
 wine. We hold this variety of grape to be indigenous, 
 and particular to the Tyrol. In no vineyard in France 
 have we met with it as the predominating vine, but it occurs 
 in Italy, and very commonly in the south of Germany, where, 
 particularly in some districts of Wiirtemberg, it predominates 
 in vineyards with a chalky soil. No doubt it migrated there 
 from the Tyrol. Styria and the rest of Austria seem not to 
 cultivate this fertile plant. In parenthesis we will mention 
 that there are two celebrated vines of this variety — one in a 
 greenhouse in Hampton Court Gardens, and one in the con- 
 servatory at Windsor Castle. These should be visited towards 
 autumn, by any one who wants to see the immense fertility of 
 this vine. 
 
 VINIFICATION. 
 
 The Tyrol wine is made with much more care in the German 
 than in the Italian district. The mash is put into the vat and 
 covered with a circular board, which is then luted down by 
 means of loam, so that the hat of the murk is always kept in an 
 atmosphere of carbonic acid. The white wine is mostly made 
 after the red. The must pressed from the white grapes is 
 thrown on the murk left 'in the vat after the red wine has been 
 drawn off, whereby a pale red wine which is used for dinner 
 is obtained. This wine, owing to its pale red colour, is called 
 Schilcher. The treatment of the wine in the cellars is pretty 
 perfect, and the wines which one obtains when going through 
 the country are free from those faults and bad tastes which 
 the wines of Dalmatia, Croatia, Istria, and the Italian part of 
 the Tyrol and Venetia, always show. In these parts there 
 has now begun a movement for the production of good wines 
 upon the German principle, and several viticulturists — Sal- 
 linger and Bauer, and others — have planted vineyards with the 
 best vines of the Rheingau. The year 1864 ripened the first 
 fruit ; and although it was a very bad year, the Riessling and 
 Traminer became ripe in a maimer which very rarely is 
 attained on the Rhine. While, however, the growing of the 
 
 Q Q 
 
594 
 
 THE GRAPE CURE A T MERAN. [chap. 
 
 vines is a perfect success, the treatment of their wines has yet 
 to be learnt by these proprietors. Those which we tasted 
 were yet turbid, and not in a condition to be either bottled 
 or sent away. It is believed that, if the Tyrolese learn the 
 treatment of the wine in cellar, they will be able to produce 
 in future qualities which will carry on an easy competition 
 with the produce of other districts. At Botzen a traveller 
 was glad to have placed upon his dinner-table, as a matter of 
 course, Riessling wine, Botzen growth, but it was not yet 
 brilliant. At Botzen, also, the belief is entertained that 
 the variety of vine which we have described as predomi- 
 nating in the Palatinate — namely, the Traminer — comes from 
 Tramin, and prevails at Tramin. Several viticulturists — such 
 as Bronner, Babo, and others — have been convinced by in- 
 spection of the district of Tramin that there is not a single 
 plant found in the whole district, and that there is not even a 
 chance of a vine in the district being mistaken for the Tra- 
 miner, because the Traminer is pale flesh red or brownish red, 
 while all the vines at Tramin are either black or white. 
 Tyrol is celebrated in Austria and Russia for its produce in 
 fruit. It produces an apple called the white Rosemary apple, 
 which the Russian traders buy, if it is fine, at the price of a 
 shilling a-piece. The red Rosemary and white Calville, which 
 are much better apples than the white Rosemary, do not 
 obtain a quarter of that price. It is a fancy fashion of the 
 Russian dinner-tables to have this white Rosemary, and the 
 people therefore treat these apples with more care than they 
 would bestow on eggs. 
 
 THE GRAPE CURE AT MERAN. 
 
 We adopt the term " grape cure " as being commonly 
 understood, though we have particular objections to its im- 
 plied significance. It signifies the systematic eating of grapes 
 on the part of patients afflicted with sundry chronic ailments 
 which resist the ordinary modes of medical treatment, for the 
 purpose of ameliorating these ailments. There are at Meran 
 lodging-houses and hotels where, at the proper season, people 
 
XVIII.] THE GRAPE CURE AT MERAN. 595 
 
 from many parts of Europe arrive and put themselves under 
 the care of those medical practitioners who make a speciality 
 of this kind of treatment. The patients are made to eat 
 grapes in considerable quantities frequently during the day, 
 the largest quantity in the morning, and at the same time to 
 take exercise. To the greater number of these patients the 
 eating of grapes is more a pleasure than a sacrifice. The 
 earliest effect is purgation ; but as the grape-juice nourishes at 
 the same time, it is superior to the mere purging mineral 
 waters, provided, of course, that the grapes used for the treat- 
 ment are properly selected. This does not always seem to be 
 the case at Meran, for there is nothing to be had there except 
 the TroUinger, in a condition in which it is still watery and 
 acidulous, and the Vernatsche, i.e. Veronaccia, or vine of 
 Verona, there called Pavana, being also at the early season, 
 when the cure must be commenced, not sufficiently advanced 
 in sweetness and concentration. The medical practitioners of 
 Meran have recognized the disadvantage of having no choice 
 except those two varieties, and have even observed that at 
 some periods their patients rather lost than gained weight-; 
 while in the establishments for the grape cure at Diirkheim in 
 the Palatinate, the patients mostly increase in weight during 
 the treatment. Meran is a climatic place of great reputation 
 in Germany ; many people go there in order to ease their 
 phthisical lungs during the winter time. It is therefore to be 
 hoped that there may be found enterprising persons who will 
 supply the want of variety and quality of grapes early as well 
 as late, so that this treatment, which seems to be beneficial in 
 many respects, although not specific in any one, may be 
 carried out to its fullest extent. 
 
 QQ2 
 
595 TOPOGRAPHY AND SOIL. ' [chap. 
 
 THE WINES OF STYRIA. 
 
 Introduction.— Topography. — Climatic condition.— Social condition of Styria as 
 influencing viticulture. — Soil. — Varieties of vines cultivated. — Mode of planting 
 and cultivating vines. — Vinification in Styria. — Pressing in Styria; German, 
 Wendish. — Statistics and nature of the wine produced. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY AND SOIL. 
 
 Although the viticulture of Styria had been described and 
 discussed by many authors in that country itself, yet it only 
 became known in Europe, particularly in Germany, through 
 the works of Bronner. We must look upon such develop- 
 ments in the light of discoveries, and not conclude that, 
 because the capabilities of production of a land were hitherto 
 unknown, the produce was not of any importance to countries 
 lying at a distance. In the autumn of 1867 we saw in tra- 
 veling through France railway waggons in the midst of the 
 Champagne, at Boulogne, and at Calais, coming directly from 
 Presburg in Austria, and showing on their German tickets 
 that they had carried grain. We know that much of the 
 grain of Croatia has been shipped at Trieste and carried 
 to England. There is, therefore, no great stretch of the 
 imagination involved in the hope that in the future our great 
 want of wines in England may be in a similar manner 
 alleviated by importations from the Austrian dominions, 
 provided always that the wines are there treated in the 
 manner in which we have shown that wines ought to be 
 treated. 
 
 The cultivation of the vine in Styria extends from Stein- 
 briick, along the Save, and from Cilli by Hohennegg, Gono- 
 lutz, and Windischfeistritz to Marburg, the vineyards in the 
 mountains called Bacher being particularly extensive. Hence 
 viticulture extends in the direction of Pettau and Fridau, into 
 the most celebrated district, namely the mountain of Lutten- 
 berg. Radkersburg and Windisch-buchlen complete the enu- 
 meration of the viticultural districts of Styria. The climatic 
 conditions of Styria are very favourable for the production 
 of wines in all those parts which do not rise more than a 
 
xvni.] ' MOUNTAINS OF STYRIA. 597 
 
 thousand feet above the sea, and are protected against 
 northerly winds by high mountains. In most parts, however, 
 only medium classes of wine will be produced. Fine wines 
 will probably be out of the question. 
 
 The soil is everywhere rich and deep, with vegetation ex- 
 tending from the tops of the mountains to the valleys. 
 Splendid vineyards are nearly everywhere distributed over 
 the whole of the southern part. A more dense agglomera- 
 tion of vineyards is found in the southern corners of Styria 
 along the Save to the Croatian frontier. Towards . the 
 north, the Gallus mountain stretches from Saurisch. The 
 wines of the western part of the Gallus mountain are 
 generally known under the name of the place where they are 
 usually sold ; namely, " Saurisch wines." The southern and 
 western slopes of the Bacher mountain may be considered a 
 separate group of vineyards. The greatest extent of viticulture, 
 however, is met with in the low hills of the mountain called 
 Windisch-biichlen. The lowest south-western part of it is the 
 celebrated Luttenberg mountain. Opposite to this, towards 
 the east, there are the Marburg vineyards, and the district is 
 in the north limited by Radkersburg and Leibnitz. On the 
 east and north of Gratz there is little viticulture on account of 
 the high mountains ; but the low hills which run eastwards 
 towards Hungary bear, without exception, single vineyards 
 which become very frequent as the valleys approach Hungary, 
 and pass gradually into the celebrated wine-producing district 
 of Giins and Steinamanger. Styria debouches not towards 
 the Mediterranean, or the northern part of the valley of the 
 Danube, but its long-drawn valleys are all directed towards 
 the east and communicate with the lower part of Hungary. 
 As hitherto the only sales could take place in the direction of 
 the rivers, and as just in that direction there was no want, the 
 only market which the Styrian producer had for his wine was 
 in his own land, and in the mountainous districts of the neigh- 
 bouring Alps. The total production of wine in Styria is 
 carried on upon a surface of 54,000 joch or morgen, each joch 
 carrying 4,000 vines. Red wine is produced in only two parts, 
 the Vinarie mountain near Gonovritz running to Cilli, and in 
 
598 SOCIAL STATE OF STYRIA [chap. 
 
 the Sausal mountain. While the districts which we have above 
 mentioned consist of hills, the slopes of which are covered 
 with vines, there are near Pettau ranges of hills — so-called 
 CoUes — nearly thirty miles in length, on which viticulture is 
 carried on in the crater of the extinct volcano, of which each 
 hill is the remnant. The reader must imagine a succession 
 of hills running over the area mentioned, all having funnel- 
 shaped excavations at their top. The area of the inside is 
 mostly ten morgen, including the slopes, but there are some 
 where the area rises to twenty morgen. There is access at 
 only one part. The vines are on the southerly and south- 
 easterly and south-westerly slopes. The northerly sides are 
 mostly covered with forest. In the bottom of the crater, 
 which is made rather even by the earth, which has gradually 
 been carried down the sides, ordinary agriculture is carried 
 on, and potatoes, maize, and fodder plants are grown. In 
 the middle of each crater there is a projection, and this has 
 mostly been chosen upon which to build the residence of 
 the viticulturist. The traveller who stands on a high point, 
 and looks over these craters and the little houses projecting 
 from them, particularly when, the intervening air is filled 
 with watery vapour, enjoys an apparently magic aspect. 
 The houses appear above the horizon, as if suspended in 
 the heavens, and apparently having no connection with 
 the earth. ; 
 
 SOCIAL CONDITION OF STYRIA AS INFLUENCING 
 VITICULTURE. 
 
 Styria is divided into two nearly equal parts by the river 
 Drave, which comes from Carinthia, and runs into the Danube 
 in Hungary. The part of Styria north of this river is 
 entirely German. The part south of it is Wendish. This 
 division is so marked, that in the town of Marburg, everybody 
 on the left bank of the river speaks German, while across the 
 bridge everybody speaks Wendish. It is a singular circum- 
 stance that all the Wends are viticulturists, and that the 
 Germans, who are in all other parts of the world very fond of 
 the cultivation of the vine, engage here but little in that 
 
XVIII.] AS INFLUENCING VITICULTURE. 599 
 
 occupation. This may, perhaps, have arisen from conquest, 
 the last effects of which, in the shape of serfdom, were 
 only abolished a few years ago. 
 
 The wine-producing Wends are termed Weinzettel. They 
 live on small rural properties, where they produce all their 
 wants, wood, fodder, corn, and wine. Some are farmers, and 
 pay rent to the proprietors for the vineyards they cultivate, 
 but the greatest numbers are proprietors of small peasant 
 farms. These farms are mostly rounded off properties, so that 
 the whole complex of the fields lies close together, and the 
 farm- buildings are situated in the middle of it, if possible on 
 an eminence, and, in the case of the volcanic hills which we 
 have already described, in the middle of the crater on the 
 central eminence. In such farm -buildings there are lodgings 
 for a family, and sheds for a few cattle, pigs, and poultry. 
 There are frequently, also, a press and small cellar, and in 
 tenant farms there is a room or two for the proprietor, who 
 comes there for a few days in autumn during the vintage. 
 Where the vine-grower is only a tenant farmer he pays fre- 
 quently the most curious rents. The master gives him two 
 cows, and finds fodder and straw. The vine-grower takes the 
 grass from the vineyard and feeds the cows with it. The calf 
 of the cow belongs to the master, the milk to the cultivator, 
 but the master frequently exacts eighteen pounds of clarified 
 butter. On the other hand, the master pays to the cultivator 
 thirty shillings per acre in cash, so that there is a perplexing 
 amount of cross calculation. In some parts the dung produced 
 by the cattle on the farm belongs for half the year to the 
 master, and for one other half-year to the cultivator. The 
 system of appurtenances is here carried to an extent which 
 we have never seen anywhere else, and to enumerate all the . 
 varieties of emolument which are divided between landlord 
 and cultivator would be impossible. This condition denotes 
 a very low state of society. There is neither capital on the 
 part of the proprietors, nor resource of any kind on the part 
 of the cultivators, and the effect of these circumstances is most 
 painfully discernible in the wine-produce. 
 
6oo VARIETIES OF VINES CULTIVATED. [chap. 
 
 SOIL. 
 The soil in Styria varies greatly ; there is tertiary forma- 
 tion, diluvial and alluvial soil of the older period, with frag- 
 ments of granitic mountains. From Marburg to Pettau along 
 the Drave there is marl ; the Colles have mostly clay, which 
 is the produce of recent basaltic eruptions and their disinte- 
 gration by the atmosphere. In other parts there are conglo- 
 merations of chalk containing many shells ; at Luttenberg, 
 sandy marl; there is trachyte in other parts, and sandstone 
 forms the basis of the rocks through which the various basaltic 
 and otherwise volcanic eruptions have taken place. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES CULTIVATED. 
 In Styria many varieties of vines are cultivated, some of 
 which we are obliged to assume to be indigenous to the soil. 
 In the neighbourhood of the watering-place Tuffer, on the 
 little river San, which runs into the Save, the shrubs along the 
 river are covered with vines, although there is no vineyard 
 within many miles of this place. There are, no doubt, among 
 the other varieties cultivated, lUyrian, Hungarian, a few Italian 
 and French, as well as German vines ; but some are quite 
 peculiar to Styria, and these we assume to be indigenous. In 
 the German part of Styria, particularly in the Gratz district, 
 a grape is grown which they call the Bellina. This seems to 
 be identical with what Germans call " Heunisch," which means 
 " Hungarian," and here we observe the curious circumstance 
 that a grape which is grown in Germany and Hungary is by 
 the Germans called Hungarian, and by the Hungarians called 
 German. It reminds one of the instrument used for drawing 
 teeth, which the Enghsh call the French key, and the Germans 
 call the English key. In the mountain of Luttenberg, and in 
 the vineyards of the Drave, the Mosler wine predominates, and 
 next to the Bellina it is the commonest grape in all Styria- 
 It also bears the name of Schipon, and we know already that 
 it is identical with the Hungarian Furmint, or vine of Tokay. 
 In bad years this vine gives a bad wine, but on the exposures 
 of the Luttenberg mountain it yields the best wines of Styria 
 
XVIll.J VARIETIES OF VINES CULTIVATED. 6oi 
 
 which have a reputation dating many centuries back. The 
 Mosler has however this advantage, that it always bears, 
 always ripens its wood, always produces middle-sized grapes, 
 which do not drop easily, and when the sun is high, shrivel 
 into raisins, from which, if need be, sweet wine can be made. 
 In the rest of Styria, in the direction of Croatia and Carinthia, 
 a great variety of vines are cultivated, which there ripen easily. 
 The Riessling has also been transplanted there, and yields a 
 very fiery wine, but it appears to lose its grand flavour. The 
 principal vine there is called Tantowina, which bears im- 
 mensely, but gives a mediocre wine. Its German name is 
 Mehlweiss. Another variety is the green Hainer. In the 
 mountain of Gams half the vines are of the variety called 
 white or yellow muscatels, the same which give the wines of 
 Frontignan and Lunel in France. It attains moderate sweet- 
 ness and an agreeable flavour. The wine, however, which is 
 made of it, loses both the sweetness and flavour when fermen- 
 tation is over, and is therefore always drunk during the state 
 of fermentation. The variety of vine which yields the 
 Gonovitz red wine is the Kauka, a small black round grape 
 of an agreeable and peculiar flavour, with a round three- 
 lobed leaf, which becomes red in autumn. To this vine the 
 people of Gonovitz pay particular attention ; they remove 
 the berries from the stalks after having made a careful selec- 
 tion of all the good grapes in fine weather ; the grapes are 
 then mashed and fermented in vats. The murk is frequently 
 submerged, and the wine is treated as French red wines are 
 treated. The variety of vine which is most commonly grown 
 in the Sausal mountains is the blue Wildbacher, an abundant 
 bearer, which hardly ever fails. We saw a vine of this kind 
 in the garden of the late G. P. H. Bronner, of Wiesloch, 
 which had been trained on a pear-tree so as to cover it 
 entirely, and which in the. year 1866 produced sixty litres of 
 very good red wine. This vine seems to be very well suited 
 for situations where the climate is somewhat rough at times. 
 Its advantages over the Burgundy in that respect are con- 
 siderable. The wine obtained from this variety is fresh and 
 strong, has body and astringency similar to the wines of 
 
6o2 MODE OF CULTIVATING. [CHAp. 
 
 Bordeaux. No doubt it could be kept and transported just as 
 well as the wines of the Palus. The blue Wildbacher is, no 
 doubt, a vine indigenous to the country between Carinthia 
 and Croatia. Its semi-wild character is indicated by its 
 tendency to climb up trees, and in the forests of Carinthia 
 and Styria trees are here and there found covered with it. 
 Its tendency to shoot long canes is very remarkable, some of 
 them being above twenty feet in length. This remarkable 
 plant bears every mode of cutting. It may be trained low 
 like the Burgundy vine ; or along houses, or in frames, and even 
 among vines, is a most pliable plant. It is interesting to see 
 how in Styria the houses of the inhabitants are covered with 
 such vines, bearing enormous harvests. The grape is small 
 like the small Burgundy, has few branches and is more round 
 and dense. The berries are round and small, black, and 
 covered with bloom. The skin is thick, so that the grape does 
 not rot easily, in this respect resembling the Verdot of the 
 Bordelais, and it may therefore be allowed to hang late on 
 the tree without detriment to its colour. In this respect it is 
 the reverse of the Burgundy. Its taste is less sweet than that 
 of the Burgundy, but more astringent and refreshing. The 
 wine obtained from it is in general not very dark, unless the 
 grapes have been collected late. It ripens about eight or ten 
 days later than the Burgundy, which is also grown in con- 
 siderable numbers by its side. What this grape wants in 
 sugar could be easily supplied by cautious addition before 
 fermentation, and we have no doubt that if it became an 
 object of attention to scientific cultivators, a great future 
 would be opened to its wines. 
 
 MODE, OF PLANTING AND CULTIVATING THE VINE. 
 The grubbing of the soil before planting is effected by the 
 digging of large square holes. The bottoms of these are filled 
 with bunches of green branches of trees. Upon that, earth is 
 placed, next cow-dung, then again earth. The vines are then 
 put into position, and covered with earth produced by the 
 rotting of turf. They are now allowed to grow, and as they 
 do so the portion of the ditch which was left unfilled is filled 
 
XVIII.] VINIFICA TION IN STYRIA. 603 
 
 up. Every twelve or fifteen years the vines are renewed in 
 the same manner as in Burgundy, by the sinking of the old 
 plant. Owing to this practice, the vines do not stand in 
 regular rows, but they are irregular as those of Burgundy and 
 the Champagne. They are small vines, from a foot to three 
 feet high, provided with spurs which grow the canes, and fixed 
 to stakes. There is a curious method of manuring in use here. 
 As the roads leading to the vineyards are at the bad time of 
 the year almost impassable, the neighbours agree to throw all 
 the vine branches, after cutting-time, into the road to make it 
 passable. Every proprietor abutting upon the road takes in 
 autumn one-half the bruised and comminuted fragments of 
 these vine canes, and puts them into his vineyard a.s manure.. 
 To avoid disputes the two abutting proprietors sometimes 
 agree to take the material alternately every other year. 
 
 VINIFICATION IN STYRIA. 
 The pale red wine is made from the blue Wildbacher 
 and the blue Ortlieber. The grapes of these varieties are 
 harvested very late, mostly after all the leaves have already 
 fallen from the vines. They are pressed, and as they are 
 overripe a small quantity of colouring matter remains dis- 
 solved in the juice. Here and there the berries are sepa- 
 rated from the stalks before pressing. The fermentation 
 for red wines is carried on in open vats, mostly in large 
 casks from which the top has been removed. The vessels 
 are filled with the mash and covered with a woollen cloth. 
 The murk which rises to the top is submerged every four 
 or six hours day and night, until fermentation is over. If 
 the murk forms into lumps, it is broken with the hands. 
 Fermentation lasts from seven to twelve days ; and when the 
 husks sink, the wine is drawn off, and the mash put upon the 
 press. The pressed wine is mostly mixed with the clear 
 drawn wine and put into barrels. Racking is effected in 
 spring. Through the great exertions of Trummer, closed 
 fermentation vats have now been introduced in Styria, and 
 the consequence is that a much better wine is made than 
 formerly. 
 
6o4 QUANTITY AND NATURE OF [chap. 
 
 THp; PRESSING IN STYRIA. 
 
 In the German part of Styria the pressing is effected 
 somewhat similarly to the Dalmatian method. The grapes 
 are mashed and put upon the presses in a pyramidal 
 heap. This heap is now, as it were, bandaged with a long 
 flat bandage made of the root of the common juniper, and 
 having a length of from loO to 130 feet. The pressure is 
 now applied, and the spiral lines of the bandage are pressed 
 the one into the other until the whole of the juice is squeezed 
 out. When the first pressure is over, the murk is loosened, 
 trodden again with the feet and pressed a second time. But 
 the Dalmatians are very greedy, and having pressed twice, 
 and being unable to produce any more effect upon the murk 
 by means of their feet, they now take large hammers of wood, 
 or stampers, and stamp the unfortunate murk into a pulp, and 
 then put it into the press again. The fluid which runs now is 
 the mere juice of the stalks, the essence of astringency, but it 
 is put with the wine. In the country inhabited by the Wends, 
 however, the heap of murk is surrounded with hoops of which 
 the lowest is the largest, and the uppermost one the smallest ; 
 and when the pressure is applied, these hoops sink one into 
 the other until they are pressed down in a concentric layer 
 into the pulp. The presses used in Styria are all long beam- 
 presses. Very few screw-presses are to be seen. The 
 beams have mostly a length of from 15 to 30 feet. The 
 pressing beds are 10 to 12 feet square. On the small pro- 
 perties the greatest variety of the most original and simple 
 presses can be perceived, such as a wooden box, the pressure 
 on the contents of which is exercised by means of an old tree, 
 to the end of which a stone is slung, being an exact imitation 
 of the northern cheese-press. 
 
 QUANTITY AND NATURE OF THE WINE PRODUCED. 
 In Styria there are about 54,720 joch of vineyards, which 
 produce on an average 25 eimer per joch, making a total, 
 therefore, of 1,367,500 eimer. The northern limit of viticul- 
 ture is at Gratwein in the circle of Gratz. A most beneficent 
 
XVlII.] THE WINE PRODUCED. 605 
 
 influence upon viticulture and vinification was exercised by 
 the late Archduke John, and by Professor Dr. Hlubeck. The 
 Archduke John caused, from 1832, about 26 joch of suitable 
 land to be planted with select varieties of vines, and introduced 
 rational treatment of the soil and of the wine in the cellar. 
 In consequence of this example many proprietors removed 
 their old bad vines ; planted Riessling, red Traminer, and a 
 variety of other grapes, some of which we have already 
 mentioned ; and introduced a better management. The con- 
 sequence has been that, while formerly the wines produced 
 were not lasting, now the Styrian wines are of good taste and 
 can be kept, although they are yet somewhat too acid, and 
 therefore require too much time for ripening. In the Exhibi- 
 tion of 1857 there were ninety-nine wines ; and although they 
 had been exposed to great heat in the building in which they 
 were exhibited, only very few had suffered through that cir- 
 cumstance, showing that they were intrinsically of good quality. 
 The improvement in the vines has also produced the manu- 
 facture of effervescent wines, and the brothers Kleinoschegg 
 received a medal for their manufacture. 
 
 Among the red wines there is prominent Vinarier. This 
 wine has not enough colour to become an object of trade, and 
 is wanting in body, and tastes thin and sweetish. It is made 
 from the blue Kauka. Of the white wines those of the 
 Luttenberg, Kirschbach, and Pickern are distinguished, and 
 particularly valued in Styria. All these wines are made from 
 the Moslavina, which we have described as a prominent vine of 
 Croatia. The plant yields much acid, and at the same time a 
 large amount of sugar, so that in good years and positions 
 wines are produced which have body and strength, require 
 four to five years to work off their sugar, and then are sour 
 and astringent and require five years more to obtain bouquet. 
 A large quantity of this wine was formerly sold as young 
 effervescent must, but now the production seems to exceed 
 the sale, and the Styrians are very desirous of exporting their 
 wine to other countries. If they would sell to us, they must 
 make .their wine according to' the principles we have laid down 
 in the general part, reduce their acidity to a standard, and 
 
6o6 PREVAILING VINES. [chap. 
 
 make them clean, dry, and faultless. From the natural 
 capabilities of Styria we cannot doubt that this is very 
 feasible. 
 
 WINES OF CROATIA. 
 
 Introduction. — Climate, soil, labour. — Prevailing vines. — Mode of cultivation. — 
 Vintage, cellars, wine. — Exhibition of wines at Agram in 1864. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 The climatic situation of Croatia is particularly favourable 
 to viticulture. A high mountain forms its northern limit, 
 from which many higher or lower ranges of hills run towards 
 the south into the plain. The soil is very various, and is not 
 everywhere very suitable for viticulture. Croatia has but 
 one great difficulty to contend with, and that is the want 
 of labour, in consequence of which the producers cultivate 
 the vine for quantity, neglecting all attempts at quality. 
 
 PREVAILING VINES. 
 The vines which are cultivated with preference are the large 
 berried varieties, which give vintages even when they are left 
 in a half-wild condition, and which can be trained high so as 
 not to be overwhelmed by the weeds. Notwithstanding that 
 many of them have been determined by scientific oinologists, 
 there is, in relation to general nomenclature, yet great confu- 
 sion. Trummer of Gratz has given us the best information 
 on the varieties of vines grown in Croatia. Thus, he has shown 
 that the Moslavina, in Germany called Moslerrebe, and which 
 has by some been supposed to come from the Moselle, is at 
 home in the Croatian district called the Moslavina ; but it 
 is by no means an otherwise unknown vine, occurring also 
 largely in Hungary, under the name furmint, and being the 
 prevailing grape of the Tokay district. Further, there are 
 the blue cinnamon grape and the red Portuguese, both well 
 known in Styria, and supposed to come from Sclavonia. 
 But the prevailing sorts of grapes in Croatia are the Griin- 
 hainer and Heunisch, which cannot possibly give fine wine. 
 
xviii.] MODE OF CULTIVATION. 607 
 
 Among the newly introduced sorts there is the Welsch- 
 riesshng. This particular sort is called aligottet or meslier in 
 the department of the Marne. It takes its name from the 
 circumstance that it was a hundred years ago transplanted 
 to Heidelberg ; thence it spread into the viticultural districts 
 of the south of Germany, and thence through Austria into 
 Croatia. This vine gives a sweet grape, and wine contain- 
 ing much alcohol, but no aroma. It is very frugal, and 
 succeeds on soil where the ordinary Riessling and other grapes 
 do not succeed any more. It has, however, one particular 
 fault ; namely, that of a very long fruit-stalk, which, when 
 it is moved about by the wind, becomes easily twisted, 
 whereupon the grapes cease to ripen, and remain acid. Its 
 cultivation is, therefore, particularly to be deprecated in 
 Croatia, where not a low training, which by keeping the 
 grapes near to the ground would prevent a twisting, but a 
 high education is usual, exposing the grapes as much as 
 possible to the influence of the wind. The Riessling and 
 Traminer are rarely met with. 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATION. 
 The cultivation here is altogether peculiar. The young 
 vines are produced by laying the canes of old vines, and the 
 rooted plants are transferred to vineyards. They are allowed 
 to grow for five or six years, being, of course, trimmed from 
 time to time. They are then all sunk into the ground so as 
 to produce what is termed a very extensive foot, and allowed 
 to project from the ground to the height of from three to 
 six feet. Thus the vine arrives at its full-bearing power in 
 the eighth year. It is cut upon either a spur of three eyes 
 or a cane of six or eight eyes, or even twelve eyes. The vines 
 stand close together, and the bent cane of one is tied to the 
 stake of the next vine. These stakes project from two to 
 three feet above the height of the vines, which gives a 
 height for the stakes of from nine to ten feet above the 
 ground. The soil is worked once in the spring. Then the 
 vine is allowed to grow as best it may until the time of the 
 vintage approaches. At that time no human being can pene- 
 
o8 VINIFICA TION. [chap. 
 
 trate the vineyard. The vintagers, therefore, upon entering 
 the vineyard, cut their way, and tie up what branches remain 
 uncut, and in general make the vines accessible to the reapers. 
 Behind these vine-dressers there go relays of women, who 
 with sickles cut off the thick layer of weeds and grass. A 
 Croatian vineyard, therefore, is a very picturesque scene, and 
 exhibits the power of nature and the luxuriance of the vine in 
 a wonderful degree ; but its produce is of a low quality. The 
 only excuse which the viticulturists can give for this great 
 neglect, is that at some times of the year labour really 
 cannot be obtained. The grapes are mostly ripe in September, 
 so that there would be time and sun enough to ripen them to 
 perfection ; but as the viticulturists only think of getting the 
 greatest quantity, they vintage when the grapes show the 
 greatest volume. At this time they are still partially sour, 
 contain much water, and necessarily give an imperfect wine. 
 The presses are mostly the old-fashioned and imperfect lever 
 presses — long beams, at the end of which a stone is screwed 
 up. There is no proper basket in use in which the mash is 
 put, but it is laid on the flat boards of the press, mixed with 
 old canes from last year's cuttings of the vines, covered with 
 boards, and pressed. The must which is obtained from the 
 collected grapes is warm, and runs into a violent fermentation 
 at once, and this is aided by the warmth of the cellars. The 
 consequence is, that when the wine gets into the cask, most 
 of it has already become infested by acetous fermentation. 
 The treatment in the cellar is most deficient. What is called 
 the cellar is nothing but a hole dug or cut out of the vine- 
 yard, over which a scanty thatch is fixed. In some few 
 districts there are vaulted cellars, but they have many 
 faults, and are not sufficiently large. Even the cellars of 
 the large proprietors, which are below the press-houses and 
 the inhabited houses, are insufficient. They are sunk only a 
 few feet below the earth, and never contain that cool moist 
 air which ought to be present in good cellars. The people 
 have the idea that in order to preserve their barrels it is 
 necessary to constantly allow the air to enter and go out. All 
 the apertures of the cellar are therefore opened in summer, 
 
XVIII.] EXHIBITION OF WINES AT AGRAM. 609 
 
 and consequently the air in the cellars is' dry and warm, and 
 causes an evaporation from the casks which necessitates fre- 
 quently repeated filling up of ullage. 
 
 The wine remains in general in the cask without being 
 racked; and. if it is drunk on the spot, it is drawn direct 
 from the lees. In Croatia, therefore, we have a striking ex- 
 ample of immense capabilities of production, and. advantages 
 of climate lost to mankind by ignorance, indolence, and per- 
 haps insufficiency of labour through depopulation brought 
 about by disadvantageous territorial laws and social institu- 
 tions. 
 
 EXHIBITION OF WINES AT AGRAM IN 1 864. 
 
 The description which we have given of Croatia's viticulture 
 was strikingly confirmed by the exhibition of wines which 
 took place at Agram in the year 1864. There were exhibited 
 above a thousand sorts, all in well-filled bottles, beautifully 
 corked and labelled, so that the visitors passing through the 
 exhibition would have thought Croatia to be the flower of all 
 wine-producing countries ; but of every ten bottles there was 
 hardly one without striking faults. They all had a collateral 
 taste, which everyone who is acquainted with the mode of the 
 production of wine and its faults, knows to be the result of 
 bad treatment. Most of the wines contained prejudicial 
 quantities of acetic acid, and a great many had the so-called 
 "taste of mice" which is the consequence of too frequent 
 exposure to the air. A committee appointed to judge of 
 the wines were divided in opinion whether the taste of 
 mice was not a peculiar Croatian bouquet, or whether it 
 was not a taste of the Croatian soil which penetrated into 
 the grape. When they were informed that these faults were 
 owing to the bad treatment of the wines by ignorant producers, 
 the staunchest Croatians amongst them declared such an 
 assertion to be a degradation of the Croatian nationality. 
 However, the exhibition will not have been in vain as regards 
 these persons, for at least they once heard the truth about their 
 wines, and they can hardly doubt for long what they heard to 
 be the' truth. The judges only rarely met with a bottle which 
 
 R R 
 
6io EXHIBITION OF WINES AT AGRAM. [chap. 
 
 could have been sold in trade as wine without a fault. Those 
 bottles which were good contained sweet selected wines, — so- 
 called liqueur wines. There were also some tolerably good 
 red wines. There is in these wines sufficient acidity, but as 
 the grapes are harvested early the acidity is unripe. The wines, 
 owing to the fact that they are made early, are not excessively 
 strong. In the ordinary wines sugar is never present. Tannin 
 is present in a proper proportion. The Dalmatian wines which 
 were at that exhibition contained tannin in great excess, and 
 could, by their peculiar chemical composition, immediately 
 be distinguished from the Croatian wines. Moreover, the 
 Dalmatian wines were highly coloured, so that if mixed 
 with their o\\n bulk of water they were yet equal to the 
 darkest Burgundy. This, together with the astringency and 
 acidity, made the Dalmatian wines of such a quality that 
 they could not be drunk by themselves, but had, like low 
 French wines, to be mixed with water before they became 
 drinkable. Not a single quality of wine exhibited that finest 
 of all achievements, bouquet. Most of them were young, but 
 those which were not, showed that ageing could not develop 
 a bouquet. All the exhibitors were consequently advised 
 to pay the greatest attention to the selection of their vines, 
 and to construct, wherever possible, new cellars on the north 
 side of the mountains and hills, or sunk sufficiently deep into 
 the ground to be protected from the influence of the summer 
 sun. We have no doubt that, if they would make wines 
 according to the rules of the art, buyers from all the world 
 would flock into Croatia to purchase their produce, while at 
 present they are obliged to drink it themselves or to let it spoil 
 in their cellars. The imperfection of vinification in Croatia 
 was further exemplified by the presses, the barrels, and the 
 many tools which are used in the process. Of the many 
 grape-presses shown at the Agram exhibition, only a few 
 showed the result of the progress made in other viticultural 
 countries. Most of them were beam-presses, and had no 
 proper basket, and those which pretended to an advance 
 were complicated with wheels and old-fashioned gear. 
 
XVIII.] TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE. 6ii 
 
 WINES OF DALMAITA. 
 
 Topography and climate. — A traveller's route. — Vineyards. — Cultivation. — 
 Varieties of vines. — Maraschino wine different from liqueur. — Vintage and 
 vinification. — Wines. — Sale, value, and export of vifines. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE. 
 Dalmatia is the most southern part of Austria. Its valleys 
 rise from the level of the Adriatic Sea. Its north-eastern 
 limits are formed by mountains which prevent the cold north- 
 east wind from flowing freely over the land. The sometimes 
 rough winds of the sea moderate the otherwise high tempera- 
 ture, at the same time bringing moisture which is of great 
 importance for this rocky land. On the whole, then, the 
 climatic dispositions are in the highest degree favourable to 
 the development of the vine. Where olives, figs, oleander, 
 aloe, and the palm-tree can grow together,, the vine may 
 develop itself in a splendid fashion. The traveller visiting 
 Dalmatia leaves Trieste on board the steamer and passes the 
 Istrian coast and the bay of Quarnaro. While the steamer 
 passes between islands and the mainland towards the south, 
 the traveller perceives naked mountains without any vege- 
 tation, splendid rocks for the painter to commemorate, but 
 no means for the subsistence of man or animal. Here and 
 there a little shrubwood rises from crevices in the rocks ; and 
 if one were to draw a conclusion from the aspect of Dalmatia 
 from the sea-coast, one would say that it was a stony desert. 
 On penetrating into the land, however, it is perceived that 
 many valleys intersect the rocks. In the bottoms of these 
 valleys there is cultivable land used partially for the produc- 
 tion of seed plants and partly for fodder. All the slopes of 
 the mountains, with the exception of the barren and rocky tops 
 and precipices, are used either as meadows or vineyards. The 
 vineyards exist altogether by the assiduity of man. The 
 earth is carried from the valleys up the steep inclines, and 
 fixed by means of terraces, and as the strong sea-winds would 
 speedily blow the earth away every small piece of vineyard is 
 surrounded by a wall of no less than six feet high. These 
 
 R R 2 
 
6i2 MODE OF CULTIVATION. [chap. 
 
 walls themselves are mainly the result of the blasting opera- 
 tions carried on to reduce the inclination of the territory. 
 They are kettles where the best wine could be boiled by the 
 sun, very traps to catch the heat of heaven and to radiate it 
 out again during the night. In addition to these advantages 
 we find that the cultivation of the vine is the most careful that 
 could be imagined. It was, therefore, no wonder that when 
 through the vine disease the production of wine in Italy fell 
 to one-tenth of the ordinary quantity, Dalmatia should, in a 
 great measure, have been able to supply the want of Italy 
 The prices of Dalmatian wine rose to threefold what they 
 were before, but the cultivation of the vine also increa.sed 
 about three- or four-fold ; and during our visit to that interest- 
 ing country we saw hundreds of plots of apparently barren 
 pasture land being transformed into vineyards by the building 
 of walls, grubbing of the soil, and the carrying of earth ; and 
 many hundreds of men were engaged everywhere in this 
 development. 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATION. 
 
 The cultivation of the vine is effected as follows. Blind 
 canes are planted ; they grow quickly to a considerable size, 
 and are then trained up to the shape of a low tree ; for, as 
 no wood grows in this part of the land and can only be 
 obtained from the sea-coast with difficulty, the vine has to 
 support itself Owing to the strong structure of the vine, this 
 succeeds very well, and the vineyards look very orderly. In 
 many parts, the low basket shape of the vine is adopted, 
 reminding us of what is called the stake plant {pfahlstock) in 
 the Rhenish countries. Only in those parts which lie near the 
 eastern frontier and within reach of forests, stakes are found 
 in the vineyards. Each vine is provided, at the time of 
 cutting, with spurs of three to four eyes each. When the first 
 shoots have been formed, the barren ones are broken out. 
 The bearing ones are allowed to grow and hang towards the 
 ground. Here one sees that peculiar practice which is ordi- 
 narily only used with the apple, pear, and plum trees ; that of 
 supporting the branches by means of props, a sign of the 
 
XVlll.] VARIETIES OF VINES. 613 
 
 most extraordinary fertility. The vineyards are worked two 
 or three times during the summer, and manured every five 
 years. The manure is mostly very sHght, being the produce 
 of sheep and mules. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES. 
 
 The varieties of vines are so great that it has been im- 
 possible for us to determine even any considerable part of 
 their number. On the whole, the vines usual in Italy 
 prevail, and the Croatian varieties are only exceptionally 
 met with, a circumstance easily explained by the fact that 
 communication with all the other parts of the Adriatic 
 and the Mediterranean is easier for the Dalmatians than 
 communication with Croatia or the inland. Among the 
 blue varieties of vines we have the Hungarian Kadarka, 
 which is rather frequently met with. Then there are the 
 Crelenjak, the large and small Plavec, and the Modrulj. 
 On the islands of Brazza, Glavusa, and Nicousa, are the 
 vines ' called the Vugava and Uvapasche. The Dalmatians 
 are particularly pleased with the Crelenjak and the small 
 Plavec. The small Plavec also occurs in Styria. It gives 
 a slight wine, but has the property of the Albuelis of the 
 Moselle, namely, that when it escapes the difficulties of blossom 
 time it bears largely, but gives a slight and bouquetless wine. 
 Among the white varieties is noteworthy a grape called the 
 Maraschino, which is small, long, and very sweet. It is cul- 
 tivated particularly on the island of Brazza, where large 
 quantities of the well-known sweet wine, Maraschino, are made. 
 We must here remark, in parenthesis, that the Maraschino 
 commonly drunk in Europe is not a wine but a liqueur, and 
 that what is ordinarily called the Maraschino di Zara is a 
 liqueur made from spirit distilled from the fermented mash of 
 a small cherry. In fact, the Maraschino di Zara is a cherry 
 brandy strongly syruped. It generally has the unmistakeable 
 taste of its origin, owing to a certain quantity of fousel oil. 
 This ingredient causes it to be undrinkable while fresh, and 
 involves the necessity of its being kept long. It is difficult to 
 decide which was the original — Maraschino wine or the hqueur. 
 
6i4 VINTAGE AND VINIFICATION. [chap. 
 
 We incline, however, to the belief that the wine was the 
 earliest. The Maraschino vine has been tried at Sebenico, 
 Trau, and Spalato, but the plantations were destroyed by 
 the oidium. At Sebenico and Zara we observed the yellow 
 Orleans vine in many vineyards, of which we have given a 
 description while treating of Riidesheim and Feuerberg near 
 Bingen. The general want among Dalmatian grapes is a 
 variety which shall be capable of giving flavour to the wine. 
 Of the muscatels, the Damascene variety is here and there 
 met with. 
 
 VINTAGE AND VINIFICATION. 
 
 The Dalmatians distinguish two kinds of wine. The one 
 they call "sour" (dry) and the other "sweet." To produce 
 sour wine they cut the grapes at the time they have reached 
 the greatest volume, transform them into mash in the 
 vineyards, and fill them into bags made of the skin of 
 he-goats, with the hair turned inside. Two such bags are 
 hung on the sides of a mule, and carried home. All the 
 Dalmatian wines, therefore, have the flavour of the he-goat ; 
 or, if this flavour from. long use of the bag should have dis- 
 appeared, which it very rarely does, then another flavour is 
 imparted by the impurity which necessarily remains in a 
 vessel which can be only imperfectly cleansed. Near Zara 
 and Sebenico, however, we perceived that the grapes were 
 carried home, as in the Champagne, in baskets, on the backs 
 of mules and donkeys. When the grapes have arrived at the 
 habitations, they are put into large vats made of deal. No 
 oak vessels are met with in this country. The mash is allowed 
 to stand in these vats without a cover, and without any care 
 in the warm weather, for days, and sometimes weeks, after the 
 fermentation is over. The hat, which rises of course, becomes 
 sour and frequently putrid ; and although this spoilt part is 
 frequently taken off" as in the Gironde, nevertheless the deal, 
 together with the acidification, imparts to the wine a second 
 and third adventitious flavour, namely, that of turpentine and 
 that of vinegar. The more intelligent viticulturists who have 
 ambition and desire to produce better wines, keep the chapeau 
 
xviii.J DESCRIPTION OF THE WINES. 615 
 
 underneath the fluid by means of netting or straw mats. The 
 wine is then drawn and put into barrels, and the murk which 
 remains is trodden with the feet, in order to get it as dry as 
 it can be made. Presses are rarely met with. Where they 
 exist, they have a very primitive shape and construction. A 
 large stone is fixed in the yard, round which there is a square 
 or circular channel cut with the chisel. On both sides of this 
 stone there are holes into which two wood posts can be fixed. 
 They are united by a cross-beam, so as to represent a gallows, 
 and through the top of the cross-beam passes a screw made of 
 wood. The mash is now put upon the stone, and either held 
 together by netting, or, as in Croatia, wound round with a 
 rope, or a kind of girdle made of straw. It is then covered 
 with a few boards and pressed. The new wine is put into the 
 pine-wood barrels, all of which are new, and therefore com- 
 municate their peculiar taste to the pressed wine. These 
 barrels are brought to Daimatia by sea, and mostly come 
 from Trieste, whither they have been transported from the 
 military frontier of Austria. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE WINES. 
 It is, therefore, not a subject for astonishment that the 
 wines should be, at the utmost, but of medium quality — 
 mostly bad. Rarely have we drunk a dry wine which 
 did not exhibit a flavour of vinegar, the so-called taste of 
 mice, the taste of the he-goat, and the taste of turpen- 
 tine ; and all these faults are so common, that the people 
 thereabout think them to be natural properties of all wine. 
 They are greatly astonished when you tell them that they are 
 nothing but the results of bad treatment. Even intelligent 
 persons to whom we spoke did not think it worth their while 
 to make improvements, because they could now sell the bottle 
 of wine for twopence ; and if they made it pure, they sard, 
 they would not get twopence farthing for it. The red wines 
 are immensely dark. Like Croatian wine, the Dalmatian, 
 when mixed with its own bulk of water, gives a fluid which is 
 yet darker than the darkest Burgundy or Voslau. Such wine 
 is so astringent, that it cannot be drunk without having been 
 
6i6 DESCRIPTION OF THE WINES. [CHAP. 
 
 mixed with water ; for, if one endeavours to swallow it, it so 
 contracts the gullet as to regurgitate and threaten to enter the 
 windpipe. This astringency could easily be avoided if the 
 berries were, before fermentation, separated from the stalks, 
 and if a portion of the husks were removed from the murk 
 before fermentation. The stalks of the varieties of grapes 
 we have mentioned are so juicy, that one can easily press 
 the juice from them with the fingers. The alcoholicity 
 of the natural wines of Dalmatia varies between 7 and 10 
 per cent. No sugar remains in the natural wines ; and we 
 are quite convinced that if Dalmatia were to make its 
 wines upon a rational and scientific principle, the products 
 would be of such a quality as absolutely to command any 
 market in the world, to the extent of the quantity produced. 
 The white sweet wines are thick like syrup, without any 
 aroma or other attraction. Maraschino is a sweet syrup, flow- 
 ing like oil, and, at the same time, tasting a little of wine. 
 The sweet red wines, however, are, in all respects, equal to 
 the sweet Roussillon. The Dalmatian wines are mostly 
 sold, and transported by ships to Italy. Fifty-four litres are 
 worth 5J-., which is less than a shilling for the ten litres, or 
 \\d. the litre. During the time of the oidium the price rose 
 to 26s., and afterwards sank to 12s. From this it will be 
 seen at what a cheap rate an excellent wine might be pro- 
 duced by rational means in that southern country. Much 
 of the wine is drunk in the country itself, but large quantities 
 are transported by land towards the Turkish frontier, and 
 thence go into Thessaly and Epirus, and great distances 
 eastward, to be drunk by the Greeks and Turks. At present 
 viticulture in Dalmatia is confined to the neighbourhood of 
 the sea, owing to the facility of exporting the wines ; but the 
 whole of Dalmatia could produce wine' if it were demanded. 
 There is, therefore, nothing chimerical in the efforts which the 
 Austrian government are making to raise the spirit of enter- 
 prise in that country, and to direct it particularly towards 
 viticulture. 
 
xviii.] TOPOGRAPHY AND VITICULTURE. 617 
 
 WINES OF ISTRIA. 
 
 Topography. — Viticulture at Trieste, Italian. — Garland, bower, and chamber 
 cultivation. — Varieties of vines.— Vinification. — Viticulture important to 
 shipping. ^Piccolo or Hansel. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY AND VITICULTURE. 
 There is a viticultural district between Trieste and Pirano, 
 and another near Rovigno and Pola. The islands of Vagha, 
 Cherso, and Lussin also produce wine, but by the same care- 
 less processes as are used in Dalmatia, and consequently 
 their products are of little value to commerce. Viticulture 
 at Trieste is practised as in Italy. A certain small portion of 
 the arable land in narrow slips is planted with vines; but 
 whereas in Italy the vines are grown on trees planted for the 
 purpose, at Trieste they are trained , up stakes, of which 
 three are fixed into the ground, crossed in the middle, and 
 tied together. Such stakes alone are capable of supporting 
 the vines in a district where strong winds frequently prevail. 
 At the point where the stakes cross the so-called " heads " of 
 the vine are formed. From these heads grow the new shoots, 
 partly up the stakes, partly hanging down on the ground and 
 bearing their fruit. In spring, all these branches are collected 
 together, twisted like a rope, and tied to a similar rope formed 
 from the canes of the next vine. As the rope formed from 
 the canes of the previous year has been cut off at the head, the 
 head now shows short spurs. While the canes bear most of 
 the fruit, the spurs shoot the new canes necessary for the for- 
 mation of next year's rope. This may be called " cultivation 
 by garlands." It presupposes great fertility of the soil and 
 great warmth of climate. Higher up the hill there is a mode 
 of training the vine, called " bower training." 
 
 There is also found in the direction towards Gortz the 
 method of training which we found to prevail in the Pala- 
 tinate, namely, the Kammerbau, with this difference however, 
 that at Trieste the chambers are built sufficiently high for a 
 man to walk under them, while in the Palatinate the men 
 must either jump over the frames, or creep underneath them 
 
6i8 VINES, VINIFICATION, AND WINES. [CHAP. 
 
 on all-fours. Near Rovigno and Pola, as also on the Karst, 
 the Italian method of garlands is used. It is probable that 
 viticulture may experience a great extension on this so-called 
 Karst, although this strip of rocky territory is from five 
 hundred to a thousand feet higher than Trieste itself 
 
 VINES, VINIFICATION, AND WINES. 
 The varieties of vines cultivated near Trieste are all 
 Italian. The blue Refosco and the white Malvoisie are 
 the most esteemed, and occur most frequently, but there 
 are from twenty to thirty other varieties mostly mixed 
 with them. Vinification is here carried on as carelessly 
 as in Italy. The wine of Istria, which is obtained at 
 Trieste, shows the same faults as those which we have 
 described regarding Dalmatia and Croatia. The public 
 drink it as a matter of course, but the lowest wine retailer 
 of France or Germany would not sell such drink as is sold 
 in the first hotels of Trieste, under the name of Istrian 
 wine, and particularly Refosco. If the visitor at Trieste 
 wants to drink a good glass of wine, he is obliged to ask 
 for Voslauer, Gumpoldskirchener, or Grinzinger. The want 
 of knowledge and care on the part of the population necessi- 
 tates the importation from great distances of that which, with 
 a little attention, they might obtain themselves much better. 
 Nothing could be of such importance to the Adriatic as the 
 raising of viticulture in all its provinces ; for the ordinary want 
 of shipping which goes to Trieste and discharges its cargoes 
 there, is a back freight. If wines could be produced fit for 
 exportation, they might be brought to almost any port of 
 Europe, at a charge hardly exceeding the cost of ballast. 
 Yet, how is wine made in Istria .? The grapes are cut when 
 they show the largest size ; they are then put into the vats 
 without being mashed, in order, as the people say, " to become 
 more fully ripe." They are then mashed with the feet, and 
 put in high narrow vats. During the fermentation the wine is 
 repeatedly drawn from the bottom of the vat and poured on 
 the top of the hat ; and this is done as often as necessary to 
 give to the wine the desired dark colour. The wine is then 
 
XVIII.] , WINES OF GORTZ. 619 
 
 put into barrels, or more frequently left in the vats, until a 
 purchaser appears; or is drawn from the vat, bottle by bottle 
 until finished. During this process, of course the wine be- 
 comes spoiled in every respect. The murk is rarely pressed, 
 but only trodden with the feet as dry as possible. After this, 
 water is mixed with the murk, in order to produce the piccolo 
 wine (in French called picquet, and in German, Hansel). This 
 piccolo is, in fact, vinegar and water, with a good deal of 
 astringency. 
 
 WINES OF GORTZ. 
 
 Farming at wine rent. — Effervescent wine from the "ribola" grape. — Picolit, 
 
 sweet wine. 
 
 The fruit of Gortz is highly esteemed in the markets of 
 South Germany, and particularly Vienna, but the wine pro- 
 duced at Gortz is very mediocre. The cultivation of the 
 vineyards, particularly in the so-called " Ecken " or corners, 
 is a mixture of Italian and German methods. In the valley 
 of Wipach alone there are closed vineyard.s, containing, how- 
 ever, too many fruit trees. The system of viticulture is that 
 usual in the Maconnais and Beaujolais. The proprietors farm 
 out their property to so-called " colonists ;" that is, to farmers 
 with families, who pay the rent, which consists mainly of wine, 
 and, in rare cases, of a few quarters of grain in addition. 
 At present, many proprietors change this system, and there 
 can be no doubt that if viticulture were to become more com- 
 mon and rational in this district, a large quantity of good 
 wine might be produced. The varieties of vines all come from 
 Italy, and among them the Refosco is preferred. White and 
 light red wines are also produced. Everywhere are the same 
 shortcomings as in Dalmatia, Istria, and Croatia. Vinegar 
 and mice taste contaminate the finest product. Some wine 
 speculators at Gortz, however, are now beginning to buy the 
 grapes, and produce a splendid red wine, with much colour, 
 which is, however, yet too astringent. This fault it would 
 lose if it were kept for five or ten years, but the maturity may 
 
620 WINES OF GORTZ. [CHAP. 
 
 be obtained at a much cheaper price by simply separating 
 the berries from the stalks and separating a portion of the 
 husks before fermentation. There is also made here an 
 effervescent wine from a particular grape called the Ribola. 
 The wine is excellent, but turbid, as the art of disgorging, 
 as practised in the Champagne and on the Rhine, has not 
 yet penetrated to Gortz. Large proprietors also make a 
 sweet wine called picolit, particularly from grapes which 
 have been allowed to become somewhat dry while lying on 
 straw during a period of six or eight weeks. This wine is 
 racked repeatedly, and then put in long-necked white pint 
 bottles. There it remains for many years, until it has acquired 
 what is called the " firn " ta.ste, and is then considered some- 
 thing exquisite ; but the estimation of this liquor has latterly 
 sustained a great shock by the discovery by some shrewd 
 manufacturers, that they can produce this firn flavour, " the 
 infallible sign of age," in a quarter of an hour. Picolit is 
 drunk after dinner from small glasses of the size of a thimble. 
 There are some large manufacturers of Picolit, who carry on 
 the drying of their grapes in drying-houses built for the pur- 
 pose. They sell their wine to Turkey and Russia. Viticulture 
 at Gortz has extended its area to at least double its former 
 size during the last fifteen years, owing to the happy circum- 
 stance that the oidium never entered the valley. A society 
 of intelligent men have recognized the extension which might 
 be given to viticulture, and the improvements which might be 
 applied to vines and wines, and have formed a company for 
 their practical execution. 
 
 WINES OP BOHEMIA. 
 
 In Bohemia there are about 3,915 Austrian joch of vine- 
 yards, of which each produces about 1 3 eimer of wine. This 
 gives an annual 'production of 50,895 eimer, of which 19,300 
 are red, and 31,595 are white wine. In the neighbourhood of 
 Prague there are annually obtained from 500 to 700 eimer. 
 The production of wine in Bohemia is decidedly on the 
 decrease. The best wine is that of Melnik, a town situated 
 
XVIII.] WINES OF BOHEMIA. 621 
 
 about twelve miles to the north of Prague. This wine is 
 made from the black Burgundy grape, the original plants 
 of which were, according to reliable information, obtained 
 directly from Burgundy several hundred years ago. Although 
 the plants have never been regenerated by new importations, 
 they have preserved absolutely their original character. The 
 soil is chalky, resting upon sand-stone. The low parts 
 near the Elbe contain sand and clay. The cultivation of the 
 vine is not very intelligent. The method of rejuvenescing 
 which is usual in Burgundy is also practised here. When the 
 grapes are collected, they are put into vats — mostly barrels 
 from which the top has been removed — and allowed to 
 ferment. During fermentation stalks and husks are frequently 
 submerged by means of rakes and other instruments, and of 
 course, as usual, by such treatment the wine is ruined. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 THE WINES OF HUNGARY. 
 
 Introductory remarks. — Topography. — Varieties of soil. — Varieties of vines. — 
 Mode of cultivation. — Vintage. — Vinification. — Classification of Hungarian 
 wines. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 
 
 The climatic conditions of this country, and the chemical 
 and mechanical qualities of its soil, are very favourable to 
 viticulture. Accordingly, a great variety as well as a large 
 quantity of wine is produced. In a report given by Stefan 
 Morocz, on the occasion of the International Agricultural 
 Exhibition at Hamburg in 1863, the total annual production 
 of wine in Hungary was estimated to be 25 millions of 
 " eimer ;" or, taking the " eimer" at 54 litres (it being actually 
 54-1527 litres), 13^ millions of hectolitres. Of this quantity 
 a little less than one-eighth, namely, three millions of eimer, 
 equal to i'62 millions of hectolitres, was supposed to be 
 capable of being so prepared as to become fit for European or 
 universal trade. But of this latter amount a very small pro- 
 portion is as yet actually so prepared ; and in the year 1859 
 the exportation from Pesth, the principal market for Hunga- 
 rian wines, did not yet amount to 100,000 eimer. Viticulture 
 is very imperfect in most parts of Hungary ; but the treatment 
 of wine in the cellar is frequently still worse. The landed 
 proprietors particularly are only very partially acquainted 
 with the theory of vinification, and mostly spoil their products. 
 But amongst the wine merchants the treatment of the wine is 
 
CHAP. XIX.] TOPOGRAPHY. 623 
 
 well understood, and skilfully used to eradicate or subdue 
 the faults so frequently imparted in the course of rural 
 operations. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 Hungary may conveniently be divided into five viticiiltural 
 districts. 
 
 The Northern district on the left bank of the Danube is the 
 continuation in an easterly direction of the viticultural districts 
 of Lower Austria and Moravia. It includes the valley of 
 the Waag, in which vines are cultivated from Trentschin to 
 Szered; further, the valley of the Gran; but is rnainly charac- 
 terised by the Hegyalja mountain, containing the celebrated 
 vineyards of Tokay and Erlau, and the less distinguished 
 but fertile vineyards of the Bodrog, which flows from the 
 Carpathian mountains, and the Samoa, which issues from 
 Transylvania. 
 
 The Eastern district is confined between the Theiss on the 
 west, and the river Samos and Transylvania on the east ; its 
 southern frontier is the Banat. Its wines are represented by 
 the products of Erddd, Bakator, and Menes. 
 
 The Central district is situated between the Danube on the 
 west, and the Theiss on the east ; its northern limit is at Pesth, 
 and in the south it ends at the Woiwodina. 
 
 The Western district is divided in two parts : one to the west 
 of the Raab river, which is a continuation of the viticultural 
 district of Lower Austria, and is represented by the vineyards 
 of Rust ; the other parts to the east of the Raab, and further 
 enclosed by the Danube and Drave, including in its centre 
 the district of the Plattensee. This part is characterized 
 by the wines of Of en, Soinlau, and Weissenburg. 
 
 The Southern district includes the Banat and Woiwodina ; 
 the former contains the Werschitz mountain, and includes the 
 Weisskirchen Banat. 
 
 In the following we have repeatedly indicated these districts 
 by their capital initials only, in order to aid the reader in 
 finding on the map the names of localities where wines are 
 grown. 
 
624 VARIETIES OF VINES. [CHAP. 
 
 VARIETIES OF SOIL. 
 
 The Hungarian vines are grown upon a great variety of 
 soils : some in mountainous districts, some in open plains. 
 In these latter the soil is alluvial, frequently marshy. It is 
 said that in these districts the wine gets a marshy taste. 
 
 The Hegyalja is a promontory of the Carpathians, sloping 
 towards the south, and consisting mainly of porphyry and 
 basalt. The best wines of Fiinfkirchen grow on chalky hills, 
 termed the Deindol. The Ofner wine, termed Adlersberger, 
 grows on volcanic soil, which is a part of the series of hills 
 running along the Danube from Pacs-Megyer to Alt- 
 T^t^ny. The wine of the mountain of Somlyo, or Somlau, in 
 Veszprim county, near the Plattensee, grows on basaltic soil. 
 The wines which grow on the lake of Neusiedl, and those 
 which grow on the Plattensee, generically termed " lake wines " 
 {Seeweine), are grown on basaltic soil, which slopes from the 
 Badacsonyer mountains southward towards this lake. All 
 the lake wine of Gyorkoer grows on soil which is made up 
 of one-third of chalk, and two-thirds of clay. The wine of 
 Packsdorf, in the county of Eisenburg, is obtained on strongly 
 ferruginous soil, while the wine of Musai, in Beregh county, 
 comes from a soil which is partly the product of alumstone. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES. 
 Several of the varieties of vines grown in Lower Austria and 
 Croatia are also grown in Hungary, such as the gjrm Velteline 
 and the Silverwhite. But there are two dominant vines 
 peculiar to Hungary — the Furmint, or Tokay with white 
 grapes, and the Kadarka with black grapes. In the county 
 of Baranye there are some extensive plantations of Burgundy 
 pineau, and round Villary there is much of the Rhenish 
 Riessling, the early Portuguese, and the Oporto vine. At 
 Ofen a black vine, Sar feher, occurs intermixed with the 
 Kadarka. Then there is the " small black" which ripens very 
 late, and the " large black" which is similar to, but perhaps 
 not identical with, the " black Hambro," grown in English 
 conservatories. A " black Muscatel" and a " white Muscatel" 
 
XIX.] VARIETIES OF VINES. 625 
 
 are also grown here on account of the beautiful large grapes 
 and great bearing power. They ripen early, but do not give 
 a first-class wine. They are somewhat degenerate Muscatels, 
 inasmuch as they possess no Muscatel flavour. The white 
 Muscatel is termed Bela in Syrmia. The "blue Augster" 
 is also a beautiful grape, with elongated berries of a reddish 
 blue, hardly ever of a black colour. 
 
 The Furmint (in Hungarian " lo Formint "), syn. white 
 Tokay, Lake-vine, Moseler, Moslavina, is a strong vine : the 
 one-year's rods are straight, with long internodes, of greyish 
 brown colour, and covered with white loose wool ; the green 
 shoots are also woolly at the ends. The leaves are large and 
 leathej-y, undulated, and not deeply incised, dark green above, 
 grey-green with a thick felt below. Their stalks are rather 
 short, being three-fourths of the length of the axis of the 
 leaves. The bunch of grapes is large, loose, pendulous, cylin- 
 drical, sometimes divided in several lobes. The fruitstalk is 
 short and thin, and its node does not carry a collateral bunch. 
 The sub-stalks or berry-stalks are all long, and the basal en- 
 largement has a brown margin, and fine light green warts. 
 The berries are medium-sized, round, or when pressed to- 
 gether, elongated, yellowish green, provided with vessels, 
 transparent, and with points on the surface. The latter is 
 covered with a strong white bloom. The juice of the berries 
 is sweet, and has a peculiar strong flavour. The grapes ripen 
 early, and the earliest among them show the peculiarity that 
 they burst and discharge a portion of their juice ; after this 
 they dry up and form a shapeless lump full of sugar, called 
 " dry berries." These must therefore be well distinguished 
 from the raisins of southern climates. Here the whole bunch 
 passes simultaneously and equally into the passulated state, 
 and the berries do not burst. But the Hungarian " Trocken- 
 beeren " very rarely comprise the entire bunch, and are mostl}' 
 interspersed with fully ripe and plump, not at all passulated 
 . berries. At the vintage these " dry berries " are separated 
 from the others immediately after the bunch is cut off ; each 
 vintager has a small wooden vessel suspended at his waist, 
 in which he places the dry berries picked from the bunch ; 
 
 s is 
 
626 MODE OF CULTIVATION. [chap, 
 
 while the rest of thfe bunch with the plump and juicy berries 
 is put into a large vessel standing on the ground. 
 
 Nearly all the red wines of Hungary are made from a 
 peculiar black-graped vine, the blue Kadarka. The berries 
 of this variety are somewhat oval, and of medium size. They 
 are black in colour, and covered with the usual bloom. The 
 bunches are of medium size. The leaf is very dark green, 
 mostly three-lobed, shiny above, and a little hirsute on its 
 lower face. The two extreme lobes of the leaf generally turn 
 a little upward. By this peculiar twist the Kadarka can be 
 distinguished from other varieties of vines, even at a distance. 
 The wood is greyish brown, and the eyes and nodes approach 
 each other to within an inch. It is, therefore, necessary to 
 cut this vine very short. One or two eyes are left to a spur, 
 and yet the plant in autumn will be found full of black grapes. 
 In this respect it fatally resembles the varieties of vines in 
 France, which, like the Gamay, yield fruit on every shoot, and 
 give much bad wine. To get fully ripe, it requires the strong 
 heat of the Hungarian summer ; it is the only black-graped 
 vine which yields " dry berries," like the Furmint, and thus 
 enables the viticulturists to produce the sweet wine called 
 " Ausbruch." Its blind canes take quickly after planting and 
 begin to bear in the third year. The plant is very little 
 liable to be injured by cold, in winter, spring and blossom 
 time, and ripens its grapes "in the beginning of September. 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATION. 
 The cultivation in most parts of Hungary is the same as 
 that which prevails in the Jura and Switzerland, and in many 
 vineyards of the Upper Maine ; namely, a small head or knob 
 cultivation. The vine is planted in the ground, and four or 
 five inches above the ground the so-called head is formed by 
 cutting away all branches at that part as often as is necessary to 
 develop this malformation. We have seen such heads, of twice 
 the size of a fist, covered by the moss of many decenniums. 
 In the district of which we are speaking, however, not many vines 
 are of old standing, and it is to be hoped that those rational 
 cultivators of Ofen and Erlau, who now are so busy in push- 
 
XIX.] VINTAGE. 627 
 
 ing their trade in England, will abandon this mode of culti- 
 vating the vine which wastes so many years in the production 
 of this fancy article called the head. In spring, when the 
 vine has driven its first shoots, which are generally eight or 
 ten ill number, the viticulturists effect what they call a "wed- 
 ing." This consists in removing from the head all shoots, 
 above the number of five. At the same time they take all 
 leaves up to the first blossom from the shoots which they 
 allow to stand. This gives to a vineyard so treated a curious 
 naked appearance. The yiticulturists state, however, that 
 this practice is advantageous to the blossoming, and prevents 
 the thriving of the so-called hay- worm, a parasite which fre- 
 quently becomes hurtful. To each vine a stake is fixed. The 
 vines do not ordinarily stand in straight lines, inasmuch as 
 they have to be sunk repeatedly in order to replace vines 
 which have perished. 
 
 VINTAGE. 
 
 At Ofen the white grapes are vintaged first, and afterwards 
 the collection of the black grapes begins. There is never any 
 selection made, and all grapes are cut off at the same time. 
 They are put in low vats and crushed by means of stampers, 
 or trodden by the feet of men. They then go into the 
 fermentation vats. The separation of the berries from the 
 stalks is not usual. The vats are called gatzen, and have 
 the same shape as those used in Burgundy. Fermentation is 
 allowed to proceed until the hat or top begins to sink. The 
 wine is then drawn, the murk is pressed, and the result of the 
 first pressure is put together with the drawn wine ; but the 
 liquids pressed subsequently are not mixed with the wine, 
 but kept separate for subordinate use. The proportion of 
 murk to wine is assumed to be as follows : — One gatzen 
 containing 150 eimer of grapes yields 120 eimer of clear wine 
 and 30 eimer of murk. The first or drawn wine is called 
 "sweet wine," and of this the above quantity yields 1 10 eimer; 
 while the wine obtained by pressing the murk amounts to 
 from 10 to 12 eimer. (j eimer = 54'i527 litres.) 
 
 The presses which are usual in Hungary are the large beam- 
 
 S S 2 
 
628 PRODUCTION AND CLASSIFICATION [CHAP. 
 
 presses. The murk on the press-bed is usually kept together 
 by means of hoops which are put pyramidally on the heap of 
 murk, and then pressed down, the narrowest one from the top 
 into the second, third, and fourth, until all the hoops .forrn 
 concentric rings lying level on the surface of the murk. There 
 are also presses with the ordinary square boxes. The wine is 
 preserved in large barrels, but on being sold it is generally — 
 particularly, however, at Eriau — put into small barrels con- 
 taining from 162 litres to 270 litres each. 
 
 VINIFICATION. 
 
 All varieties of wine called " Ausbruck" and " Maszlacz" 
 including the Tokays, Rust, Menes, and many others, are 
 made in this way, that a quantity of must from plump 
 grapes is more or less fortified by means of "dry berries." 
 This necessitates of course that a portion of the harvest 
 is deprived entirely of its dry berries, and this now yields 
 nothing but the ordinary wine. When the dry berries are 
 not removed, and are made into wine together with the. 
 entire harvest, and without any addition of dry berries from 
 other vintages, the so-called " natural wine " or " Szamc- 
 rodni" is obtained. Maszlacz is made of four qualities, 
 called one, two, three, and four "buttig," according to the 
 quantity of dry berries added to each cask of wine. A cask 
 of wine contains ten " butten," and the addition of dry berries 
 to the several qualities of Maszlacz therefore amounts to 
 either 10 or 20, 30 or 40 per cent, of the volume of the; 
 murk. Such wine is always highly alcoholic and more or 
 less sweet. When five volumes or more of dry berries are 
 added to the must, " Ausbruch" is formed. The finest quality 
 of Ausbruch is that which runs spontaneously from the must- 
 infused dry berries after they have been allowed to macerate 
 a short time, and is called "Essence!' 
 
 COMPOSITION OF THE FOUSEL OIL OF HUNGARIAN WINES. 
 
 The acid contained in this oil is chiefly caproic, with a 
 
 a little caprylic, and a very minute portion of cenanthylir 
 
XIX.] OF HUNGARIAN WINES. 629 
 
 acid. Pelargonic acid could not be detected at all. The 
 alcohol was chiefly amylic, with a little ethylic alcohol. 
 Neither propylic nor butylic alcohol were found. The oil, 
 of which 30 lbs. were examined, was obtained from a refinery 
 of crude tartar. (F. Grimm, Ann. Chem. and Pharm., vol. 
 clvii. p. 264.) 
 
 CLASSIFICATION OF HUNGARIAN WINES. 
 
 By this classification it is attempted to assign to the prin- 
 cipal Hungarian wines those places which they occupy when 
 compared with each other. It is not intended thereby to 
 establish a comparison with either the quality or the value of 
 any other wines which are usually classified. 
 
 A. — Wines of the First Class. 
 
 I. First Order: Tokay. — i. Essence: very sweet, slight 
 amount of alcohol (7 per cent.), must be very old. When 
 fifty years in bottle, fetches from 40J. to 66j. per small Tokay 
 bottle. 2. A usbruch : sweet, strong in alcohol ; must be 
 old. Not rarely deposits, like the Essence, sugar in crystals. 
 3. Maszlacz, of four different qualities : the quality with 40 
 per cent, dry berries costs at Tokay from 120 to 160 dollars 
 per eimer, or 6s. the ordinary wine-bottle full. 4. Szamorodny, 
 or dry natural Tokay, requires age. 5- Ordinari. Total pro- 
 duction in twenty-one communes of the Tokay district of all 
 qualities per annum : 268,000 eimer. The Mezes-Male or 
 Imperial grows at Tarczal (market town), and does not get 
 into trade. Next in quality are the products of Talya, Mad, 
 Liszka, Kiszfaludy, Zsadany. Third in quality, or so-called 
 medium Tokays, are the wines of Tokay town, Keresstur, 
 Erdobenye, Toloswa, Nagysarospatak (all four market towns), 
 and of the villages Ond, Zzanto-Olassi, Ujheli, Sara, Golop, 
 Zzegilong Zombor, Erdo-Herwathi, Ratka, Kis-Toronyia. 
 Around these third qualities there is a large circle of twenty- 
 five places, producing 130,000 eimer annually, which form 
 tie fourth and last quality, and include all that can have the 
 most remote title to be called Tokay-Hegj-alja. 
 
630 CLASSIFICATION OF [chap. 
 
 II. Second Order. — Menes Magyarat, county of Arad, E. 
 Red and white Ausbruch and natural wines, produced in 
 fourteen localities, and amounting to 241,000 eimer annually. 
 Vinification as in Tokay district. 
 
 III. Third Order. — Wines of Rust, Oedenburg county, W. 
 69,000 eimer produced annually in nineteen localities. White, 
 strong, and sweet Ausbruch, and natural wine. The vintage 
 is here mostly very late, sometimes as late as December. 
 
 B. — • Wines of the Second Class. 
 
 I. White Wines. — Grow at Somlau, Veszprim county, W. 
 Table and dessert wines. 
 
 Badacsony, on the Plattensee, county of Zala, W. Table, 
 dessert, and Ausbruch wines. 
 
 Neszeliny, Gran county. 
 
 Ermelleker, Bihar county, C. Strong table and dessert 
 wines. 
 
 Szeredny, Unghu county. 
 
 Neograd. Table wines. 
 
 Krasso. Dinner and dessert wines. 
 
 II. Red Wines. — Erlau Visonta (termed Schiller or Rubi- 
 nette), Hevesh county, N. 
 
 Szegzard, Tolna county. Wines of fiery taste and a honey- 
 like odour. 
 
 Villany, Barany county. Resembling Burgundy. 
 Ofner, Adlersberger. Good and strong. 
 Krasso. 
 
 C. — Wines of the Third Class. 
 Baranya. Good red dinner wines. 
 Pesth, Steinbruch, G. White dinner wine. 
 Hont. Good white dinner wine. 
 Presburg, N. Red and white. 
 Vagh-Ujhelyer. Good red dinner. 
 Weissenburg, W. Good white dinner. 
 Somogy. Red and white. 
 Bakator (Ermelleker), Bratenwein, E. White. 
 Eisenburg, W. Good white dinner. 
 Raab, W. do. do. 
 
XIX.] HUNGARIAN WINES. 631 
 
 Balaton-Fiired. White. 
 
 Erdod, N. Red and Schiller (pale red). 
 
 Fiinfkirchen, W. White strong dinner. 
 
 Miszla, Tolna county. White ; acid. 
 
 Oedenburg, W. White, sweetish table wine. 
 
 Paulitsch. Strong, good red. 
 
 Neusiedl lake wine. Acidulous dinner wine. 
 
 Simonthurn, Tolud county. Strong sweetish red. 
 
 Most other wine-producing places belong to the fourth 
 class, which it is unnecessary to enumerate. Their products are 
 mostly very inferior and consumed by the population. What 
 we have in the foregoing termed dinner or table-wine, can be 
 bought in enormous quantities in Hungary, at prices varying 
 from \%s. to 36^'. per eimer; good ordinary wines can be 
 bought at iQs. to i8j. per eimer. 
 
 The wines of the Banat and Woiwodina in general re- 
 semble the small wines of Hungary, and are but rarely above 
 the third class. The cultivation and vinification are still more 
 imperfect than in Hungary. The Werschetz mountain in the 
 Banat yields annually about 400,000 eimer, the rest of the 
 Temeser Banat 939,500 eimer, and Syrmia nearly 1,500,000 
 eimer. The free town of Werschetz is the centre of the most 
 extensive viticultural district of Austria, producing from 
 200,000 to 300,000 eimer annually. Of select qualities, 
 150,000 eimer are constantly in store at Werschetz ; of these 
 15,000 are first class, being sweet, alcoholic, and red. 15,000 
 are second class, also strong and red, but not sweet; 15,000 
 eimer are sweet, pale reddish Schiller wine of the first class ; 
 nearly 100,000 eimer dry, harsh, spirituous Schiller wine of the 
 second class. Of white wines of good quality there are only 
 about 8,000 eimer. The rest is a very low class product. 
 
 Karlowitz in Syrmia produces the "Vermouth" liqueur, 
 and the Slibovitz or plum brandy, besides red and white 
 Ausbruch wine. Here also peculiar vines are found ; Czerna, 
 Okrugla, Szemendria, white Bela (green Muscateller, but 
 without flavour), and Magyocka (Magyarika, or early blue 
 Magyar vine). 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE WINES OF SPAIN. 
 
 Introduction and topograpliy. — Wines of Xeres, or sherries. — Soil. — Vines of the 
 sheny district. — Episodical comparison of the density of sherry must with the 
 specific gravity of must produced from different vines in various countries and 
 years. — Density of Spanish must. — Specific gravity of German, French, and 
 Australian musts. — Analyses showing quantities of solids and of sugar con- 
 tained in musts. — Modes of making sherry. — Treatment of wines m the 
 Bodega. — Alcoholic strength of sherries. — Natural sherries. — Simmering, 
 boiling, and sugaring of must. — Preparation of vrine for export.- — Manza- 
 nilla. — Wines of Niebla, Moguer, &c. — Wines of Rota. — Wines of the Val 
 de Penas. — Wines of Catalonia, Aragon, and Valencia. — Valencia, Beni- 
 carlo, Alicante. — Wines of Granada, Malaga. — Viticultural statistics of the 
 district of Xeres de la Frontera. 
 
 INTRODUCTION AND TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 Throughout all historical times Spain has been one of the 
 foremost viticultural countries of the world. It has not only 
 rivalled the south of France and Italy ; nay, has extinguished 
 the wine trade which Upper Italy was once carrying on with 
 the Mediterranean ports and England. The mountains which 
 run along its extensive coast-lines, or accompany its rivers, 
 offer the most favourable situations and most fertile soils for 
 viticulture ; the southern position ensures a sufficiency of sun- 
 shine to mature the grapes with more or less perfection every 
 year ; and the proximity of the Atlantic on one side, of the 
 Mediterranean on the other, brings the moisture by the aid of 
 which the vine luxuriates. In consequence of these natural 
 advantages the wines grown in almost all parts of Spain have 
 much taste and bouquet, and great strength and durability, 
 provided they are subjected to proper treatment. In places, 
 however, where proper vinifi cation is unknown, the natural 
 advantages are lost ; the wines are spoiled during fermen- 
 
CHAP.-xx.] INTRODUCTION AND TOPOGRAPHY. 633 
 
 tation, become acidified, scuddy, and have to be got rid of 
 for home consumption, or the distillation of brandy, before 
 the summer which succeeds their production. The Spaniards 
 produce no red wines which can compare with the fine red 
 wines of France, the M^docs and Burgundies ; they produce 
 no natural wines with the bouquet of the Rheingau or 
 Palatinate Riessling wines ; but in the preparation of white 
 dry fortified wines, such as sherries, and in the confection of 
 some sweet wines, such as Malagas, they excel all other 
 nations ; and the export trade to most parts of the world 
 which is carried on with these products, is one of the most 
 notable sources of wealth of the inhabitants of the Peninsula. 
 Andalusia produces the wines which are of most importance 
 to English consumers. In the province of this kingdom, 
 which has Seville for its capital, is situated Xeres de la 
 Frontera, with the convent of Paxarete, and the belt of vine- 
 yards producing the vino secco and the abocado ; there also 
 is Rota, which produces the best red wine of Andalusia. 
 There are Moguro, or Moguer, Negio, Rancio, and Seville 
 itself, and other places to be described hereafter, the produce 
 of which is second only to that of the principal places just 
 mentioned. Catalonia yields annually 20,000 butts of wine, 
 which is mostly red, and which producers seem now to have 
 learned to preserve and ship to England as a cheap drink for 
 the general public. The plain of Ampurdan is covered with 
 vines, and of many other parts of this kingdom four-fifths 
 of all cultivable land is occupied in viticulture. Valencia 
 produces annually 100,000 butts of wine, from which by dis- 
 tillation 20,000 butts of spirits are manufactured. Granada 
 with its famed Malaga produces wines and raisins ; Cantaro 
 alone can compete with Malaga by its annual production 
 of 60,000 cwts. of raisins. In the mountains of Malaga the 
 vine attains almost tropical luxuriance, and bears three 
 harvests every year. A ragon produces dark-coloured strong- 
 bodied wines of good taste and flavour, from the celebrated 
 vines, the Grenache of Sabayes and the Carinefia, and delivers 
 them up to the trade of Saragossa. While the rough climate 
 of Navarra does not admit of much viticulture, and the 
 
634 INTRODUCTION AND TOPOGRAPHY. [chap: 
 
 produce of Roncesvalles is insufficient to supply local 
 demand; while Galicia produces a little good wine for ex- 
 portation, such as that of Ribadavia and Tuy : — Biscaya, 
 the most northern province of Spain, produces much wine, 
 which is, however, unfit for exportation, owing to the pro- 
 tective octroi, which ensures to the producer sale and 
 idleness, and entails upon the consumer bad quality and 
 high price ; a stigma which even the Pedro Ximenes from 
 the neighbourhood of Vittoria is not able to remove. New 
 Castile, with its classical La Mancha, produces the lightest 
 and least coloured but most agreeable wines of Spain, such as 
 the muscat of Juencaral near Madrid. Near to these are the 
 wines of the Spanish Tagus, from Arganda del Rey, above 
 Madrid, to Talavera de la Reyna, — -wines of rare qualities of 
 growth, if not of perfect preparation. Murcia produces thick 
 rough wines, of which those of Cartagena sometimes come 
 up to common sorts of Alicante. The island of Majorca 
 produces a malvasie wine, which is exported by way of 
 Palma ; and Minorca produces a red dark wine round Alcyor, 
 which is not exported, as on sea it spoils in bottles or casks, 
 while the "alba flora," a light white wine of much bouquet, 
 bears keeping and exportation. 
 
 The Spanish governments have frequently encouraged 
 the production of wine, and have during late years given 
 the greatest liberty to trade. The present laws impose no 
 export duty, and open the trade to all persons alike. The 
 tariff on imports was considerably modified in 1849, so that 
 the English trade received better conditions for the exchange 
 of commodities. In 1851 bottles and casks, which had pre- 
 viously been taxed, were admitted free of duty. 
 
 The main obstacle to the extension of the Spanish wine trade 
 was the difficulty of transport. Thus the transport of a butt 
 of wine from the Val de Penas to Port St. Mary, by means 
 of galeras or country carts, formerly cost upwards of ;^I4, the 
 value of the wine being only ^3 or ^4. With that there was 
 the ordinary danger of tapping and mixing with water. But 
 these difficulties are being rapidly removed, particularly by 
 English enterprise and railways. 
 
XX.] WINES OF XERES OR SHERRIES. 635 
 
 WINES OF XERES OR SHERRIES. 
 The sherry wines are, generally speaking, the products of 
 the district of Cadiz. Cadiz is the most important maritime 
 "trading town of Spain, situated on the bay which bears its 
 name, on the island of Leon, in the Andalusian province of 
 Sevilla, and has 75,000 inhabitants. The district further 
 includes Xeres de la Frontera, around which the principal 
 vineyards are situated ; San Lucar de Barrameda, upon the 
 banks of the estuary of the Guadalquivir ; Trebujena, to 
 the north of San Lucar ; and Puerto de Santa Maria, to the 
 south of Xeres, and upon the western banks of the estuary 
 of the Rio Guadelete, which forms the eastern frontier of 
 the sherry district. The small localities of Chipiona Rota 
 and Puerto Real form also part of the two principal ciudades. 
 The new vineyards of Chiclana are, however, not within this 
 district. The relative position of these localities can be seen 
 on the map of Don Jorge Suter. 
 
 The vineyards of all qualities in the district of Cadiz defined 
 as above, amount to 23,355 English acres.i Gorman, in his 
 evidence before the Committee of the House of Commons, 
 distributes the vineyards as follows : — 
 
 Area. Production. 
 
 Xeres de la Frontera 10,0345 aranzadas. 31,468 botas. 
 
 Puerto de St. Maria 3.362! „ 13.620 „ 
 
 1,137 „ 3.75° .. 
 
 „ 1,078 „ 3,457 » 
 
 Totals 15.612 „ 52.295 
 
 To these have to be added the 5,497 aranzadas of' the pagos 
 de arena, the produce of which is eaten by the populace, 
 when the total of 21,109 aranzadas or 23,355 acres is 
 obtained. But marketable wine is only obtained from the 
 above 15,612 aranzadas, which, according to Gorman's sta- 
 tistics, produce "por un trienio 52,295 botas ^ de mosto." 
 
 ^ The surface measure for vineyards was the aranzada, of 400 square estadales, 
 equal to 4472 French ares. The aranzada, therefore, is a little larger than the 
 English acre, which is equal to 40-47 ares. 
 
 2 I bota = 30 cantares ; I cantara or arroba mayor = 16-133 litres =3-55 
 imperial gallons: consequently I bota or butt = 106-5 imp. 'galloris; reputed 
 equal to io8 gallons. 
 
636 SOIL AND VINES [chap, 
 
 If this means " in each year of an average of three years," 
 it would be the lowest printed estimate of the production 
 with which we are acquainted.^ Gorman, however, stated 
 also in his examination in chief that each acre produced oit 
 an average (per annum, we must suppose) four butts of wine, 
 which would lead us to estimate the production as much 
 higher than is stated in his statistical tables. Other authors ^ 
 give higher quantities still, but without any data upon which 
 they base their statements. Seeing what the average ship- 
 ments of sherries from Cadiz are, which in 1863, for example, 
 amounted to 66,321 butts, we are inclined to adopt Gorman's 
 statistical tables as the most correct. Considering that wines 
 from other parts of Spain are taken to Cadiz to be exported 
 as sherries, and that much imported spirit of wine is added 
 to the sherry actually produced, the increase of 14,000 to 
 15,000 butts in the annual exports as compared to the annual 
 production, may perhaps be accounted for. 
 
 SOIL. 
 
 The district has four different descriptions of soil, which 
 determine different qualities of wine. The " albariza " is 
 the soil of the higher ground of the various sub-districts 
 which surround Xeres de la Frontera, and is composed of the 
 carbonates of lime and magnesia mixed with clay. This 
 produces the finest wine. To this follows the " barros," or red 
 iron ochre soil, which produces a very fine wine, inferior only 
 to that grown on the " albariza." In these two soils only 
 about three butts to the acre are obtained. The " bugeo " or 
 alluvial soil, and the " arenas " or sands, produce inferior 
 wines in quantities of from five to six butts to the acre. 
 East or north-east of the Xeres district the soil appears 
 unproductive. 
 
 1 Mr. C. Ritcliie, of the firm of P. Domecq and Co., informed us that 46,CX30 
 butts of wine was a full vintage at Xeres. 
 
 ^ E.g. Shaw, p. 214, states the annual produce to be 1 50,000 butts, which is 
 greatly exaggerated. 
 
XX.] OF THE SHERRY DISTRICTS. 637 
 
 VINES OF THE SHERRY DISTRICTS. 
 
 Of these we know at present little more than the names. 
 The inquiries which we directed on this subject, as well as 
 others, to some of the largest sherry-importing houses in 
 London, or to producers abroad, remained without result. In 
 the former places the information does not seem to exist ; in 
 the latter it seems to be withheld. We are in hopes of being 
 able to fill up this void in the literature of our subject by an 
 immediate personal investigation. 
 
 The dominating vine in Xeres seems to be the " Palomino." 
 The same vine, but under the name of " Gazuela," prepon- 
 derates at Puerto Santa Maria, and under the third synonym 
 of " Hogazuela " at San Lucar. Next in frequency seems 
 to be the " Perruno " and " Canocaso." Of the " Albillo " we 
 question whether it is the Albuelis of Columella, and identical 
 with the Pedro Ximenes, of which more below. The "Mantuo 
 Castellano," and the " Beba," are also frequently met with. 
 Distributed amongst the former, but not dominating to any 
 extent, are the vines enumerated in the following : — " Perruno 
 negro, P. niorado, and P. de culo del Obispo ; " " Palomino 
 negro, and P. morado ; " " Cujon de Gallo ; " " Verduagilla ; " 
 " Ferral ; " " Mantua Ladron, M. Cordoves, M. Jardiu ; " 
 "Abejera;'' " Quebrante tinaja;" "Santo Paulo bianco, 
 S. P. negro ; " " Pedro Jimenez loco ; '' " Moscatel morado, 
 M. bianco." 
 
 Of the foregoing vines only the following were found by us 
 in the Chaptal collection of the Jardin du Luxembourg, at 
 Paris, in autumn 1866: — Santo Paulo bianco. No. 105 1 ; Pedro 
 Jimenez loco, Lux. Nos. 229, 978, and 2012. If this vine is, 
 as is alleged, identical with the Gouais blanc of the French, 
 then Nos. 10 1 and 150 have to be placed under the same 
 category. Clemente Roxas relates that this vine had been 
 transplanted by one Pedro Simon (Ximon) from the Moselle 
 and Rhine to Malaga, and thence to Spain. Some German 
 authors claim it to be the Weissalbe' or Elbling, The Luxem- 
 
 ' See Goxman, Statist. Tables, Commons Rep. " Babo, p. -234. 
 
638 
 
 DENSITY OF SPANISH 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 bourg collection contains further under No. 1054, a vine termed 
 " Cherts," which is probably the Palomino. It must be under- 
 stood that all those vines amongst the foregoing, which have 
 colouring qualities, cannot easily be used for sherries. 
 
 EPISODICAL COMPARISON OF THE DENSITY OF SHERRY 
 MUST, WITH THE SPECIFIC GRAVITY OF MUST PRO- 
 DUCED FROM DIFFERENT VINES IN VARIOUS COUN- 
 TRIES AND YEARS. 
 
 Density of Spanish Must. — The most telling and useful 
 comparisons will be those which concern musts of different 
 varieties of vines grown as nearly as possible under the same 
 conditions. But every observation of the density of a must 
 in every locality has a local value, as prognosticating the 
 nature of the wine, and the means of its amelioration. The 
 following observations have, however, a peculiar value, as 
 they enable us to arrive at a reliable judgment regarding 
 the much-discussed point of the natural strength of Spanish 
 wines. They were made by Simon Clemente Roxas, the 
 monographer of the vines of Andalusia, towards the end of 
 the last century, at the time of the vintage of each variety 
 of grapes, and the density of the must was observed by 
 Baum^'s areometer, but without any reference to temperature. 
 
 Names of the Vines. 
 
 Names of the 
 Vineyards. 
 
 Dates of Observa- 
 tion. 
 
 Degrees 
 of the 
 Must. 
 
 Listan, common 
 »j j» 
 J) >) 
 
 Tempranillo 
 Palomino 
 Mantuo castillan 
 
 , , violet 
 Torrontes 
 Jaen, black 
 Mollar, black... 
 
 
 
 Homillo 
 
 La Palmosa 
 ti it 
 Miraflores 
 
 San-Lucar 
 
 San-Lucar 
 Paxarlite 
 
 September 15 
 
 15 
 26 
 
 19 
 
 October 5 
 September 19 
 15 
 19 
 19 
 27 
 
 19 
 15- 
 30 
 
 io°s 
 
 n 
 
 ii°8 
 
 ii°S 
 
 14 
 
 105 
 
 9° 
 
 9°7S 
 io°5 
 
 13 
 "5 
 9°- 
 12° 
 
XX.] 
 
 AND OTHER MUSTS. 
 
 639 
 
 Names of the Vines. 
 
 Names of the 
 Vineyards. 
 
 Dates of Observa- 
 tion. 
 
 Degrees 
 of the 
 Must. 
 
 Albillo castillan 
 
 
 September 
 
 IS 
 
 12' 
 
 „ de Huelba 
 
 Trebugena 
 
 >) 
 
 28 
 
 13° 
 
 loco 
 
 Paxar^te 
 
 )> 
 
 30 
 
 12° 
 
 Llorona 
 
 Trebugena 
 
 )» 
 
 28 
 
 10° 
 
 Tintilla 
 
 Chipiona 
 
 )» 
 
 26 
 
 15° 
 
 Beba 
 
 San-Lucar 
 
 )) 
 
 19 
 
 9° 
 
 Cienfuentes ... 
 
 Paxar^te 
 
 j> 
 
 30 
 
 13° 
 
 Heben 
 
 J) *• • 
 
 October 
 
 2 
 
 15° 
 
 Perruno, common 
 
 
 September 
 
 19 
 
 12° 
 
 „ black 
 
 San-Lucar 
 
 »» 
 
 10 
 
 10° 
 
 ,, duro 
 
 Paxarete 
 
 October 
 
 2 
 
 14° 
 
 Ferrar, common 
 
 San-Lucar 
 
 September 
 
 20 
 
 8°S 
 
 Moscatel 
 
 La Palmosa 
 
 >j 
 
 26 
 
 13° 
 
 Canoeazo 
 
 San-Lucar 
 
 »j 
 
 19 
 
 "S 
 
 By means of the tables to be given below we can easily 
 calculate the amount of sugar contained in these musts, and 
 hence derive the strength in alcohol of the wines which they 
 are capable of yielding. We shall here only treat of the 
 lowest, 9°, an intermediate, 12°, and the highest density, 15°, 
 found. The density 9° corresponds to specific gravity 1067, 
 and, judged by Fehling's table, would not contain more than 
 145 per cent, of sugar. ' These could at the utmost yield 
 7 per cent. b. w. of alcohol, an amount which indicates a feeble 
 wine. The density 12° corresponds to specific gravity 1091, 
 and, judged by Fehling's table, might contain 19-6 per cent, 
 of fruit-sugar. This might yield 9 per cent. b. w. of alcohol 
 in the future wine. The density 1 5° corresponds to specific 
 gravity 11 16, and concerning this we have no guide in 
 Fehling's tables. It may correspond to 30-9 per cent, of 
 solids, and perhaps to 26 per cent, of sugar, and would 
 yield a wine with probably from 12 to 13 per cent. b. w. 
 of alcohol. 
 
 Specific Gravity of German, French, and Australian Musts. 
 — The best and most connected series of observations on this 
 subject has been made by Schiibler (Weinbau und Weinbe- 
 reitung in Wiirtemberg; Stuttgardt, 1831) upon" the must 
 
640 
 
 DENSITY OF MUST. 
 
 [chap 
 
 produced in the neighbourhood of Stuttgardt during the 
 years 1801 to 1829. 
 
 Year 
 
 Mean density of 
 
 Highest density 
 
 Lowest density 
 
 Number of 
 
 
 Must. 
 
 of Must. 
 
 of Must. 
 
 Observations. 
 
 1801 
 
 1060-5 
 
 1072 
 
 1045 
 
 15 
 
 1802 
 
 1074-8 
 
 1076 
 
 1060 
 
 18 
 
 1803 
 
 1065 -o 
 
 1074 
 
 1069 
 
 18 
 
 1804 
 
 1065-7 
 
 1071 
 
 1065 
 
 23 
 
 1806 
 
 1059 
 
 1065 
 
 1049 
 
 22 
 
 1807 
 
 1068-5 
 
 1082 
 
 1070 
 
 22 
 
 1808 
 
 1064-8 
 
 1070 
 
 1065 
 
 25 
 
 1810 
 
 1066-9 
 
 iq8i 
 
 1065 
 
 19 
 
 1811 
 
 I081-3 
 
 1090 
 
 1070 
 
 27 
 
 1812 
 
 1063-0 
 
 1068 
 
 1057 
 
 19 
 
 1813 
 
 lo6t-o 
 
 1067 
 
 1056 
 
 15 
 
 1817 
 
 105 1 -2 
 
 1077 
 
 1044 
 
 10 
 
 1818 
 
 1073-2 
 
 1080 
 
 1063 
 
 12 
 
 1819 
 
 1073.2 
 
 1082 
 
 1065 
 
 18 
 
 1820 
 
 1059-4 
 
 1065 
 
 1054 
 
 IS 
 
 1821 
 
 1053-5 
 
 1069 
 
 1049 
 
 23 
 
 1822 
 
 1080 -o 
 
 1091 
 
 1070 
 
 33 
 
 1823 
 
 106 1 -0 
 
 1063 
 
 1051 
 
 23 
 
 1825 
 
 I077-I 
 
 loSo 
 
 1067 
 
 23 
 
 1826 
 
 1065 -0 
 
 1075 
 
 1060 
 
 10 
 
 1828 
 
 1068-4 
 
 1095 
 
 1058 
 
 13 
 
 1829 
 
 io6o-8 
 
 1080 
 
 1051 
 
 7 
 
 The same author has collected data concerning the mean 
 density of the must, in the neighbourhood of Stuttgardt, 
 during seven periods between 1754 and 1830. 
 
 Years. 
 
 Mean density of Must 
 
 1754 to 1760 
 
 1069-3 
 
 1761 „ 1770 
 
 1065-2 
 
 1771 „ 1780 
 
 1069-3 
 
 1781 „ 1788 .... 
 
 1066 -I 
 
 1801 „ 1810 
 
 1065-6 
 
 1811 „ 1820 
 
 1066-6 
 
 1821 „ 1830 
 
 1068-0 
 
 The observations of various authors on this point made in 
 different localities have been collected by Mulder, and tabu- 
 lated by Ladrey. 
 
XX.] 
 
 DENSITY OF MUST. 
 
 641 
 
 Locality. 
 
 Ma;cimum 
 density. 
 
 Minimum 
 density. 
 
 Years. 
 
 Names of observers. 
 
 Touraine .. 
 
 S outh of France 
 
 Neighbourhood of Stuttgardt 
 „ „ Maibach 
 
 )» »» j» 
 
 Banks of Neckar 
 
 Neighbourhood of Heidelberg 
 
 1082 
 1 128 
 1099 
 1054 
 1084 
 1090 
 109 1 
 
 1063 
 1103 
 1066 
 1047 
 1074 
 1050 
 1039 
 
 1822 
 
 1809 
 l8n 
 
 Chaptal. 
 Fontenelle. 
 Reuss. 
 Giinzler. 
 
 Schiibler. 
 Metzger. 
 
 The following observations of the density of the must of 
 two varieties of grapes in fourteen consecutive years were 
 made on two estates of Gevrey Chambertin. 
 
 Years. 
 
 Degrees Beaum^ found by Areometer. 
 
 First Estate. 
 
 Second Estate. 
 
 Pinot. 
 
 Camay. 
 
 Gamay. 
 
 1842 
 
 1843 
 1845 
 1846 
 1847 
 1848 
 1849 
 1850 
 1851 
 1852 
 1853 
 1854 
 1855 
 1856 
 
 I3°7S 
 II 75 
 
 I3°25 
 12° 
 
 I3°2S 
 I2°50 
 
 11° 
 
 I2°2S 
 
 I2°7S 
 I2°7S 
 ii°7S 
 
 8°s 
 12 
 10° 
 
 12° 
 io°5o 
 
 9° 
 io°75 
 
 i2°7S 
 10° 
 
 9° 
 
 11° 
 
 9^°8 
 11 
 
 P 
 
 P 
 
 9°2 
 
 8°4 
 
 In these observations the must of Pinot always shows a 
 higher density than the must of Gamay, of the same estate. 
 The Gamay-must of the second estate is lower than the must 
 of the same vine from the first estate. 
 
 T T 
 
642 
 
 A USTRALIAN MUST. 
 
 [ghap 
 
 Densities of A mtralian Must obtained at Dalwood, on the Estate 
 of the "Hunter River Vineyard Association" given in a 
 speech by Mr. Wyndham, at the Annual Meeting of the 
 Association, and reported in the Maitland {Australian) 
 Mercury of May 6, 1865. 
 
 The figures given are degrees of Balling's saccharometer, 
 and would indicate sugar if the must were a pure sugar solu- 
 tion. But we know that such is not the case ; that there 
 are always certain quantities of acids, salts, albuminous and 
 extractive bodies, and gum present, the proportion of which, 
 in different musts of the same specific gravity, may vary 
 within wide limits as shown on Fehling's table. 
 
 
 
 Min. 
 
 Med. 
 
 Max 
 
 1858. 
 
 Ve:7 fine vintage 
 
 24 
 
 25-26 
 
 27 
 
 1859. 
 
 Grapes damaged by caterpillars 
 
 22 
 
 — 
 
 27 
 
 i860. 
 
 Before the rain . 
 
 22 
 
 23 
 
 25 
 
 „ 
 
 After the rain . 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 I86I. 
 
 Very rainy 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 ,J 
 
 Later dry weatlier 
 
 18 
 
 — 
 
 20 
 
 1862 
 
 Favourable season . 
 
 21 
 
 — 
 
 ^ 
 
 J) 
 
 Black verdot 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 — 
 
 )> 
 
 Best white grapes 
 
 — . 
 
 24 
 
 — 
 
 1863. 
 
 Before the rain 
 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 32 
 
 ,, 
 
 After the rain . 
 
 18 
 
 >9 
 
 20 
 
 1864. 
 
 Very rainy 
 
 15-18 
 
 19-20 
 
 21 
 
 1865. 
 
 Very rainy 
 
 22 
 
 — 
 
 26 
 
 Musts at the Bukkulla Estate of the same Association. 
 
 i860 — _ 60 
 
 1863. .... .38 — 40 
 
 1864 24 — 38 
 
 »S65 38 41 45 
 
 Sopie of these last specimens must be either musts from 
 
 raisins, or produced by the addition of sugar. 
 
 A nalyses of Must, showing the Quantities of Solids corresponding 
 to the Densities, and the Quantities of Sugar usually present. 
 
 Most of the older observations of the density of must have 
 been made by means of Baum^'s areometer for fluids heavier 
 than water. This has twenty divisions, which correspond to 
 
XX.] 
 
 SOLIDS AND SUGAR IN MUST. 
 
 643 
 
 the specific gravities, as is shown in the following table. The 
 absolute weight of a hectolitre of must, and the weight of 
 the dry residue left by or contained in a hectolitre of must, 
 is given for each specific gravity. 
 
 Degrees of 
 Beaum6's 
 Areometer. 
 
 Corresponding 
 spec, gravity. 
 
 Weight in kilos of i hecto- 
 litre of Must. 
 
 Weight in kilos, of dry residue 
 or solid.s contained in i hec- 
 tolitre of Must. 
 
 I 
 
 1008 
 
 100 kilos. 800 grms. 
 
 I kilos. 128 grms. 
 
 2 
 
 IOI5 
 
 loi „ 500 „ 
 
 4 „ 000 „ 
 
 3 
 
 1022 
 
 102 „ 200 „ 
 
 S ,. 856 „ 
 
 4 
 
 1029 
 
 102 „ 900 „ 
 
 7 „ 728 „ 
 
 S 
 
 1036 
 
 103 „ 600 „ 
 
 9 „ 600 ,, 
 
 6 
 
 1043 
 
 104 „ 300 „ 
 
 II ., 456 „ 
 
 7 
 
 105 1 
 
 105 „ 100 „ 
 
 13 „ 600 „ 
 
 8 
 
 1059 
 
 105 „ 900 „ 
 
 15 „ 728 „ 
 
 9 
 
 1067 
 
 106 „ 700 „ 
 
 17 >, 856 „ 
 
 10 
 
 1075 
 
 107 „ 500 „ 
 
 20 ,, oco ,, 
 
 II 
 
 1083 
 
 108 „ 300 „ 
 
 22 „ 128 ,, 
 
 12 
 
 1091 
 
 109 ,, 100 „ 
 
 Z4 .. 256 „ 
 
 13 
 
 1099 
 
 109 „ 900 „ 
 
 26 ,, 400 „ 
 
 H 
 
 1 107 
 
 no „ 700 „ 
 
 28 ,, 528 „ 
 
 IS 
 
 in6 
 
 in ,, 600 ,, 
 
 30 .. 928 „ 
 
 16 
 
 H2S 
 
 112 „ 500 ,, 
 
 33 „ 328 „ 
 
 17 
 
 1 134 
 
 113 .. 400 ,. 
 
 35 ., 728 „ 
 
 18 
 
 "43 
 
 "4 .. 300 ., 
 
 38 „ 128 „ 
 
 19 
 
 1152 
 
 115 „ 200 „ 
 
 40 ,, 528 „ 
 
 20 
 
 1161 
 
 116 ,, 100 „ 
 
 42 „ 928 „ 
 
 The foregoing indications are correct for fluids at the 
 temperature of I2°5, the specific gravity of water being 
 assumed as 1000. It is certain that the greater part of the 
 soHds of every must is made up of sugar, but its exact 
 amount has not often been determined. There are a few 
 instances in which this has been done. Thus M. de Vergnette 
 found in a Burgundy must of the year 1849, 23 per cent, of 
 dry residue, and of this 20-65 mere sugar, as ascertained by 
 the polarometer ; therefore 235 per cent, of the must were 
 acids, salts, albuminous and extractive matters. It is always 
 preferable to make the determination of sugar in must by 
 means of the alkaline copper solution, in order to avoid the 
 source of error arising from the simultaneous presence of 
 dextrose and levulose sugar. This was done by Fehling, who 
 
 T T 2 
 
644 
 
 SUGAR IN MUST. 
 
 obtained the following results by his analyses, 
 buch de Chemie, ix. ^'jQ; 1864.) 
 
 [chap. 
 (Handworter- 
 
 Specific 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Specific 
 
 Sugar 
 
 Specific 
 
 Sugar 
 
 gravity. 
 
 per cent. 
 
 gravity. 
 
 per cent. 
 
 gravitj'. 
 
 per cent 
 
 IOS9 
 
 I2-0 
 
 1077 
 
 17-2 
 
 io88 
 
 171 
 
 1062 
 
 12-5 
 
 1078 
 
 15-5 
 
 1088 
 
 19-6 
 
 1062 
 
 I2-S 
 
 1079 
 
 14-9 
 
 1089 
 
 i8-2 
 
 1064 
 
 13-4 
 
 1079 
 
 163 
 
 1089 
 
 232 
 
 1064 
 
 i4'o 
 
 1079 
 
 20 '2 
 
 1090 
 
 24 -6 
 
 1065 
 
 13-9 
 
 1080 
 
 17-5 
 
 logo 
 
 267 
 
 1066 
 
 14-5 
 
 I081 
 
 17-6 
 
 I09I 
 
 186 
 
 1068 
 
 14-2 
 
 1083 
 
 16 -6 
 
 109 1 
 
 19-6 
 
 1069 
 
 147 
 
 1083 
 
 17-1 
 
 I09I 
 
 20-4 
 
 1069 
 
 150 
 
 1083 
 
 182 
 
 1092 
 
 19 -2 
 
 1069 
 
 15-8 
 
 1084 
 
 i8-S 
 
 1093 
 
 20 '4 
 
 1070 
 
 14-4 
 
 1085 
 
 172 
 
 1094 
 
 19-6 
 
 1072 
 
 16-3 
 
 1085 
 
 j8-4 
 
 1095 
 
 21-3 
 
 1073 
 
 16S 
 
 1085 
 
 187 
 
 1095 
 
 27-0 
 
 1074 
 
 iS-6 
 
 loSs 
 
 20 '4 
 
 1095 
 
 28-1 
 
 1074 
 
 15-9 
 
 1086 
 
 17-8 
 
 1096 
 
 21-3 
 
 1075 
 
 168 
 
 io86 
 
 19-8 
 
 1096 
 
 267 
 
 1075 
 
 17-0 
 
 1086 
 
 20 'O 
 
 1097 
 
 247 
 
 1076 
 
 16 -o 
 
 1087 
 
 17-8 
 
 
 
 These data are quite sufficient to prove that the principal 
 wines of Spain are not naturally stronger than the principal 
 wines of France or Germany, that they are able to consume 
 the whole of their saccharine matter by natural fermentation, 
 and become natural wines; and if properly treated do not 
 require either plastering, or the addition of brandy, spirit, or 
 boiled must. 
 
 MODES OF MAKING SHERRY. 
 Many producers of grapes and proprietors of vineyards are 
 also makers of sherry, but the occupations do not necessarily 
 go together. Like the manufacturers of champagne, the 
 makers of sherry buy much more must or wine from other 
 growers than they produce themselves. Most commonly the 
 makers or proprietors of bodegas 1 buy grapes. The grapes 
 
 1 Bodega (apotheca) is a storehouse or repository above ground, and corre- 
 sponds to llie Frencli chais. 
 
XX.] .MODE OF MAKING SHERRY. 645 
 
 are mostly dusted over with plaster of Paris. As will be seen 
 from our special section on this subject, pp. 119 — 123, we have 
 been unable to discover any rational grounds for this practice. 
 They are then trodden by men on those large wooden plat- 
 forms which, as they serve as the basis of the presses, are mostly 
 called presses themselves. The juice which runs spontaneously 
 during the treading is by some kept separate ; others mix it 
 with the juice which is obtained from the whole of the murk 
 by the press. A practice, formerly more adhered to, consists 
 in putting the whole of the trodden mass and juice into 
 vats, and letting everything undergo fermentation together. 
 Owing to the stalks and husks, this proceeding gave a much 
 harsher wine than that which at all events separates the grapes 
 from the stalks. But the be.st and most quickly maturing 
 wine is no doubt obtained from the freshly pressed pure juice. 
 The juice is filled into butts, and these are transferred from the 
 press-house to the bodega. Here the must ferments. Soon 
 after the first fermentation is over the liquor is racked from the 
 gross lees, and each butt of new wine receives an addition of 
 spirit, varying according to the strength of the wine and spirit 
 in amount from six to ten gallons. 
 
 TREATMENT OF WINES IN THE BODEGA. 
 Common sorts are racked and fined and mixed with further 
 quantities of spirit, so as to be in an^pxportable state eighteen 
 months after the vintage. Better sorts have to remain in the 
 casks for two or three years before their sale can be contem- 
 plated. The best wines, which come under the description of 
 Vino fino, Amontillado, and Manzanilla, are used for the pro- 
 duction or keeping up of " soleras." A solera is a thing kept 
 by itself ; a solera wine is a choice, old, "cabinet" article. But 
 solera wine is not ordinarily used for drinking ; its use consists 
 in blending with other sorts to give them quickly the appear- 
 ance of age and ripeness. A solera wine is, as Mr. Bernard 
 describes it, a fine old mother-wine, which by care and atten- 
 tion has acquired body and character. Such wines are kept 
 in stock in butts or double butts, and are perpetuated in the 
 following manner. Of. say twenty butts of existing ready 
 
646 TREA TMENT OF WINES [chap. 
 
 solera wine, the proprietor draws off" one-half for mixing 
 with the wines about to be exported. He then fills up 
 the voids created in his twenty butts by means of ten 
 butts of the finest wine of a later vintage which he can obtain. 
 In old-established houses solera wine is therefore a mixture of 
 a great number of wines, of which the latest addition forms 
 one-half, the last but one a quarter, the last but two an eighth 
 of the whole bulk, and so forth in a ratio which terminates 
 only with the first solera originally produced without any 
 mother-wine. The production of this solera wine is a kind of 
 chemical infection, whereby good wine is induced to undergo 
 quickly a process of etherification. The process becomes so 
 potent in some soleras that they are absolutely nasty and 
 undrinkable, like most essences, but command prices of from 
 800/. to 1,000/. per butt, on account of the large quantity of 
 flavourless wi.ne which a certain small amount of them is able 
 to infect with the desired sherry flavour. The solera wine is 
 thus seen to correspond to the liqueur used in the manu- 
 facture of champagne. 
 
 While the production of good soleras is the principal object 
 of the care of the superintendent or captain of the bodega, 
 he has, on the other hand, also the newest wines and the more 
 advanced ones under his charge. He classifies the wines and 
 describes them by marks upon the casks. These marks are 
 single, double, or triple pjlma, which have the same significance 
 as the X., XX., and XXX., used in the qualification of beer in 
 this country. By additional modifications of the palma, ten 
 or twelve qualities are not rarely distinguished. Sherries have 
 the peculiarities of all wines in a most marked degree ; namely, 
 to develop unequally if the same product is kept in diff"erent 
 casks. A certain number of casks of a good vintage will 
 soon develop itself into Amontillado ; that is, wine of a quality 
 resembhng to the wine from the district of Montilla, while 
 another number of casks of the same wine will remain common 
 and undeveloped, or develop differently, or take an unfavour- 
 able turn altogether. This depends no doubt upon the physical 
 conditions under which the respective casks are kept ; but the 
 sherry makers have not as yet found put these conditions, and 
 
XX.] IN THE BODEGA. 647 
 
 assert that the production of Amontillado is entirely a matter 
 of chance, and cannot be at all engendered or assured by any 
 act of theirs. In consequence of this inequality in the deve- 
 lopment of sherries the captain frequently inspects and tastes 
 the wines in the bodega, and often finds reason to modify his ■ 
 former marks according to the nature of the change which the 
 wine has undergone. 
 
 Mr. Barnard states, that no spirit is added to the must 
 during the process of manufacture, or pressing the grape in 
 the vineyard, unless it is intended to make sweet wine. In 
 that case six arrobas of spirit, equal to 2 1 '3 imperial gallons 
 of 60° per cent, over proof, are added to the butt of murk. 
 When this wine, which now loses only a portion of its sugar 
 by fermentation, is drawn off the lees about six months after 
 the vintage, an arroba or more of the spirit is added, so that 
 each butt contains from 24 to 25 gallons of spirit of 60° per 
 cent, over proof, besides what it has been able to develop 
 from its own sugar. This wine is not usually exported, but, 
 like the soleras, is used for the preparation of other wines 
 intended for the English market, to which it imparts body, 
 strength, and more or less lusciousness. 
 
 The wines intended for white dry wines, and eventually to 
 be made up into what is known in England as sherry, have 
 about two gallons of spirit added to the butt, when drawn off 
 the gross lees in the month of March or April following the 
 vintage, and during the rearing of them further small quan- 
 tities from time to time as required. The better sherries 
 receive less additional spirit than the inferior wines.^ The 
 lower the quality of a wine naturally, the more alcohol has to 
 be added to it to prepare it for shipment. The innate alcohol 
 of such low wines is probably not more than 8 or 9 per 
 cent, more frequently less. The inferior wines contain a 
 larger amount of albuminous matter, which disposes them to 
 spoil, particularly to become ropy, and therefore in the absence 
 of more desirable preservative agents or procedures a sufficient 
 
 1 The reverse obtains with port wines, of which the best and naturally strongest 
 require the greatest amount of extraneous spirit (say 20 per cent. ) to keep them in 
 a sound and improving condition. (See Bernard's Report, p. 21.) 
 
648 STRENGTH OF SHERfilES. [cHAP. 
 
 amount of brandy has to be added to stop all change. Most 
 commonly from 6 to 10 gallons of brandy (of 60° over proof) 
 are added to the butt of sherry. 
 
 ALCOHOLIC STRENGTH OF SHERRIES. 
 It is impossible to state in the present state of affairs, how 
 much of the alcohol of any particular sherry is natural, how 
 much added. Most sherries which were analysed contained 
 from 33 to 40 per cent, of proof spirit. A butt of sherry of 
 the latter strength, therefore, contains about 43 '2 gallons of 
 proof spirit, or 24"6 gallons of absolute alcohol. 
 
 In the report of Mr. C. Bernard to the Government, of 
 December 14, 1861, published with others in a parliamentary 
 return ordered to be printed on April 29, 1862, the history 
 and strength of various wines is given. Five samples of " vino 
 fino," from the San Lucar district, were drawn from casks in 
 the bodega of the producer, M. P. Manjon, who assured Mr. 
 Bernard that they were perfectly natural, the spirit in them 
 being the product of their natural fermentation : — No. i, 1857, 
 had 265° of proof spirit, which corresponds to 17° of the 
 centigrade on Gay-Lussac's scale; No. 2, 1856, had 27-2'' 
 proof spirit, or 175° per cent, alcohol; No. 3, 1855, again 
 265° proof spirit ; No. 4, 1849, rose to 27-9'' of proof spirit, or 
 nearly 18° per cent, of alcohol ; and No. 5, 1841, had 27-2° 
 proof spirit, or 17-5° per cent, of alcohol. The next and last 
 samples of alleged natural sherry collected by Mr. Bernard are 
 No. 10, vintage 1852, from Don Jose Romero Gi, grower, 
 Xeres, who kept it for his private use; it contained 272° 
 proof spirit. No. 12, Amontillado, year unknown, contained 
 29-2°, and No. 13, Amontillado, year unknown, 3 5 4° per cent. 
 proof spirit ; both the last samples came from Mr. Campbell, 
 Vice-Consul Port St. Mary, proprietor. It is expressly stated 
 that Nos. 12 and 13 were pure wines, unmixed with spirit and 
 unfined. These two last wines we must absolutely refuse to 
 accept as either genuine or natural, but declare to have un- 
 questionably been mixed with spirit in the ordinary manner, 
 and the sample 1 3 in particular, to the ordinary extent. Mr. 
 Bernard adds that it is generally believed that these wines 
 
XX.] NATURAL SHERRY. 649 
 
 (like Nos. i to 5) will increase in strength by age while in cask. 
 This increase might be effected in two ways; namely, by 
 the fermentation of sugar present, or by the evaporation of 
 water. The question can therefore not be decided without 
 due regard to the quantity of sugar and other ingredients, 
 more particularly as both causes might co-operate in pro- 
 ducing the increase in strength. But even a wine of 26-5° of 
 proof spirit is upon the limits of what is chemically possible, 
 because fermentation, even under the most favourable condi- 
 tions, is invariably arrested by the presence of about 15 per 
 cent, of alcohol. It is therefore necessary either that the 
 chemical experience should receive correction or explanation, 
 or that the singular conditions should be elucidated, under 
 which sherry wines reach' an exceptionally high alcohol- 
 icity. This can only be done by the analysis of the must 
 as it leaves the press, and by subsequent observations of 
 the proportion between sugar, alcohol, acids, ethers, glycerine, 
 and all ingredients which are products or feeders of 
 fermentation. 
 
 NATURAL SHERRY. 
 Wines have been sold in England at various periods, and 
 are even now offered, under the name of " Natural Sherry," 
 which were alleged not to have received and not to contain 
 any adventitious brandy or alcohol. But as we are quite 
 certain that no natural sherry ever ranges above 12 per cent, 
 of alcohol, and as all these so-called natural sherries contained 
 from 13-2 to IS'S per cent, of alcohol, they must have received 
 an addition of at least i-| to 3I per cent, of alcohol. A wine 
 called Spanish Chablis was also sold for a short time, which, 
 although it had some commendable qualities, notably only 
 12 per cent, of alcohol, yet possessed no keeping qualities, and 
 quickly became viscous or scuddy even in the cellar. Now, 
 however, some amontillados and sherries are offered for sale, 
 which in their alcoholicity (12 to 13-6 per cent.) closely 
 approach the undoubtedly natural and unbrandied wines- of 
 the Rheingau and of Sauternes, though containing about 
 I or 2 per cent, of alcohol more than these. Their taste is 
 freely vinous, rich, pure, mellow, and quite free from heat, or 
 
650 SIMMERING, &'c. OF MUST. [chap. 
 
 the taste of added spirit. They are treated with particular 
 care, and are obtained in a brilliant state by the importers 
 by means of a new process which clarifies the wines instan- 
 taneously, without any addition of finings or any chemical 
 agents whatsoever. If these wines prove durable, — and we 
 believe that they will prove so, — they will no doubt become 
 favourites of the wine-drinking public. 
 
 SIMMERING, BOILING, AND SUGARING OF MUST. 
 Colour and sweetness are also imparted to sherries, as 
 to most other Southern white- wines, by the addition of syrup 
 made from must. The small proprietor boils his grape syrup 
 in earthen vessels. But some large houses have special 
 boiling pans, not unlike those used in sugar refineries, con- 
 structed with ingenious contrivances for applying the fuel and 
 emptying out the syrup. A circular pan^ with a long spout 
 on one side, rests on a circular fire-place or hearth. On the 
 left is attached a rope and pulley by which the pan is lifted 
 on one side, to pour its contents into the vat on the right. 
 Such a pan of 4 feet diameter can in 24 hours reduce from 
 3,000 to 4,000 litres of average must to the required standard. 
 While some make syrup of a portion of the must, and mix 
 this with the rest of the unboiled must, others who have 
 better apparatus boil the whole of the must, until it has the 
 desired degree of concentration. This is indicated by a 
 specific gravity of 18° Beaum^, at 12° C. temp., or the same 
 degree which the juice of the best Muscatel of the best 
 situations reaches in the most favourable years. Though 
 simmering the must is still a common practice, it is no longer 
 concentrated on a large scale; but sugar, either starch or 
 cane, is added to produce the desired must. The boiling of 
 syrup, however, prevails as much as ever ;. it produces colour 
 by the formation of caramel on the overheated margins of the 
 pan; but it also not rarely imparts bitterness and that 
 disagreeable flavour which some people, who exaggerate an 
 otherwise just predilection for dry wines, declare to be the 
 essential property of brown sherry. The boiling of the 
 entire must leaves the wine paler, and of the same flavour as 
 unboiled must. 
 
XX.] PREPARATION FOR EXPORT. 651 
 
 The boiling of must has the additional advantage of 
 removing much albuminous matter from it, which otherwise 
 would remain dissolved and be capable of transformation 
 into ferment. But this removal can be effected by processes 
 adopted by the manufacturers in the south of France, e.g. 
 Lunel and in the Champagne, with equal if not greater facility. 
 
 PREPARATION OF WINE FOR EXPORT. 
 
 When the proprietor of the bodega receives an order to 
 prepare a certain number of butts of sherry, he mostly receives 
 therewith a limitation of price, and an injunction to send 
 exactly the same quality as that sent on a former occasion. 
 For so small is the knowledge of the public regarding wine, 
 that they suppose it possible to have the same wine all the 
 year round and all their lives, and wine merchants are unable 
 or unwilling to overcome this prejudice. The majcers of 
 sherry, therefore, always keep samples of their shipments ; and 
 on the receipt of the order, work up to this standard by 
 mixing. 
 
 A sample is first mixed, and a proportion of each ingredient 
 taken is noted. When the newsample is as near the standard 
 as practicable, the great operation is performed. This is done 
 either by vatting (as is frequently done in the London docks, 
 on a large scale), or by mixing in detail in the butts them- 
 selves. The body is first put in, and by it the main value 
 of the wine is determined. To this are added the various 
 smaller quantities to impart what body, sweetness, flavour, or 
 colour may be needed. Dryness is favoured by an addition of 
 Amontillado and brandy; lusciousness by an addition of 
 sweet old wine. Soleras, which are used sparingly for s^uch 
 bonification, are sometimes called "doctors." Mr. Bernard 
 has given the proportions of ingredients of which a butt of 
 sherry for England was generally made up in 1 860 : — 
 
 I jar of spirit, about 60 o. p. 
 
 8 jars of sweet wine, or dulce. 
 
 7 jars of soleras, or mother-wine. 
 10 jars of dry wine, 1854. 
 14 jars of dry wine, 1859. 
 
 40 jars of sherry. 
 
652 MANZANILLA. [chap. 
 
 From the whole of such an operation there result a number 
 of from 20 to 50, or 100, butts of sherry of uniform quality. 
 The butts are branded with the particular trade-mark of the 
 maker, numbers, and other signs by which the particular 
 quality or shipment is signalised, and shipped off to the 
 destined market. 
 
 From the above it is evident that a proprietor of a bodega 
 requires to be possessed of a very large stock, if he intends to 
 be able constantly to satisfy the curious demands of the 
 consumers. 
 
 MIXING STATIONS. 
 
 Cadiz. — There is a place at Cadiz called the Aguada, 
 where inferior wines are received from various parts of 
 Spain for the purpose of mixing with sherry, to be shipped 
 to England and other countries as sherry-wine. The wine 
 from the Condado de Niebla is preferred to any other wine 
 for mixing. 
 
 Bay of Rosas. — Here wines are mixed for North and South 
 America, but not for England. It is reported that French 
 wines from Port Vendres are brought hither to be mixed 
 and exported as Spanish. 
 
 MANZANILLA. 
 
 The wine which bears this name is produced in the 
 district of San Lucar de Barrameda. The vineyards are 
 in a favourable locality. The soil is a happy union of allu- 
 vium, sand, and albariza. The species of vine has not been 
 described, but its grape is said to be full of flavour, and to 
 ripen early. The wine is rank and common, but improves 
 in taste and flavour by keeping. When its fermentation 
 is perfect, it is of light body, light colour, and has great 
 lasting qualities ; but withal it is so peculiar, that a person 
 unaccustomed to it would believe it to be a medicinal tinc- 
 ture rather than a wine, and require some length of time to 
 habituate himself to its enjoyment. 
 
 Some derive the name from the town of Manzanilla in the 
 Condado de Niebla, near Seville. Others believe it to be 
 
XX.] WINES OF NIEBLA, MOGUER, &-c. 653 
 
 derived from Manzana, an apple. Others, again, think that 
 its taste, flavour and fragrance, and slight bitterness, remind 
 of the camomile flower ; and that, as this is termed Manza- 
 nilla, the wine was called after it. It is also alleged, but 
 by no means proved, that some descriptions of Manzanilla 
 wine are produced by the addition to ordinary wine of 
 essential oil pf camomiles and other ingredients. 
 
 FASHION INFLUENCING SHERRY. 
 During the last fifty years the fancies of sherry drinkers for 
 various colours of sherry have repeatedly changed. The 
 ignorant mostly believe a dark drink to be the best and 
 strongest, and a reaction in favour of pale wine is nearly 
 always the result of particular external influences. In 1825 
 the wines from San Lucar came much into vogue. They 
 were pale, and received fanciful names, such as " rockwater 
 sherry." But, owing to their want of body and high alco- 
 holicity, they had gradually to be assimilated to Xeres 
 wines. The Manzanilla period produced, or favoured, a 
 taste for dry sherries, which a few years ago culminated 
 with many so-called connoisseurs in the consumption of 
 curious, bitter, strongly-flavoured drinks, with upwards of 
 40° of proof spirit. A certain age is a good quality in a 
 sherry, as well as any other wine. The ethers become 
 developed, and impart a rich flavour ; but after a certain 
 time the wine falls off in body, and becomes bitter and dis- 
 agreeable, though highly flavoured. Such old wine is only 
 good for imparting flavour to young wine. 
 
 WINES OF NIEBLA, MOGUER, ETC. 
 The district from Moguer towards Seville, on the right bank 
 of the Guadalquiver, is called the Condado de Niebla. It 
 produces white wine of an inferior description, but from the 
 same species of vines as are cultivated in the best vineyards of 
 Xeres. The wine is perishable, and will generally decompose 
 before its third year is over, unless a large amount of alcohol 
 is thrown into it. It is mostly brought to Cadiz, and there 
 made into " sherry." 
 
654 WINES OF CA TALONIA, [chap. 
 
 WINES OF ROTA. 
 These are mostly coloured wines, or Tintos, whence the 
 English name of " Tent." They are all " simmered," as it is 
 termed, and possess no particular qualities. They are at their 
 best while quite young, and deteriorate with age. 
 
 WINES OF THE VAL DE PENAS. 
 The wines produced in this district are mostly red. About 
 twenty years ago the growers had neither staves nor coopers 
 to make casks, and the wine was still preserved in hides, as of 
 old. Some enterprising wine merchants, however, sent casks, 
 and brought them full per waggon to Port St. Mary, risking 
 the usual dangers. Mr. Bernard obtained from a grower two 
 sweet white wines (No. 22, vint. 1849, and No. 23, vint. 185 1), 
 which were drawn from large butts above ground. He was 
 assured that they were in their natural condition ; they yielded 
 respectively 22'0 and 31 '3 per cent, of pr. sp. Mr. Bernard 
 himself thinks the latter strength so high in comparison with 
 the former, and so unusual in a sweet wine which has not been 
 treated with spirit, that he supposes some error must have 
 occurred. The red wine (No. 29, vint. 1850) was drawn from 
 immense earthen jars, capable of holding three to four butts 
 each, and kept in cellars. It was the ordinary wine of the 
 district, gave 27^9 per cent, of pr. sp., and had every character 
 of a natural wine with moderate excellence. 
 
 WINES OF CATALONIA, ARAGON, AND VALENCIA. 
 These districts produce some beautiful wines. The Catalan 
 used to be shipped largely to South America, and much of it 
 is at present imported into England, and sold as Catalan 
 or Spanish port. Carineiia in Aragon yields a light red 
 wine of exquisite taste and flavour, of which the earliest 
 importations by Dr. Gorman were much liked. The 
 Valencia is perishable, and has no great reputation. The best 
 qualities are grown on the hill-sides ; the greatest quantities 
 in the plains. The latter are mostly distilled for brandy, 
 of which 600,000 cantares, or 2,130,000 gallons, are annually 
 
XX.] ARAGON, AND VALENCIA. 655 
 
 produced. Mr. Bernard obtained three samples of Valencia 
 from Grao. The first two were red dry wines, vintage i860 ; 
 one yielding 28-6 per cent., the other 25-9 per cent. These 
 were stated to be quite natural ; but if required for exporta- 
 tion, five gallons of spirit per pipe would be added to preserve 
 the wine on the voyage. The third sample was a red sweet 
 wine, vintage i860, which had been prepared, to be forwarded 
 to England, by ^\ gallons of spirit per butt being added on 
 the first drawing off the lees, six months after it had been 
 made. The resulting strength, 28'6 per cent, showed it 
 originally to have been but moderately strong, as might have 
 been expected in a sweet wine. A sample of the spirit used 
 for fortifying these wines gave a strength of 62*2 per cent, 
 over proof The quantity of red dry wine made in this province 
 considerably exceeds that of th^ sweet sorts. Stocks are not 
 kept longer here than twelve months. 
 
 In the district of Benicarlo, a town situated about sixty miles 
 to the N.E. of Valencia and Vinaroz, near the mouth of the 
 Ebro, wine is fermented in the ordinary way ; but in the 
 spring of the year following, when the wine, under the in- 
 fluence of the increased heat, passes into a secondary fer- 
 mentation, it is considered to be absolutely necessary to add 
 spirit to prevent the alcoholic fermentation from passing into 
 the acetous. The wine of Benicarlo intended for exportation 
 is fortified to the extent of 5 gallons of spirit of 55 per cent, 
 over proof per pipe, though 2\ gallons would be considered 
 sufficient to preserve it for home use. Here also httle stock is 
 kept on hand, each year's produce being generally sold for 
 exportation, or consumed by the time the new wine is made, 
 so that Mr. Bernard, in 1861, could not obtain samples of 
 natural wine from former vintages. He obtained, however, a 
 sample of natural wine, vintage 1861, containing 23-9 percent, 
 of pr. sp. A wine of i860, prepared for the English market 
 by the addition of 5 gallons of spirit of the above-stated 
 strength to the butt, contained 31-3 per cent, of pr. sp. 
 
 At Alicante, a town about ninety English miles south of 
 Valencia, the vines are grown on the hillside and in the plain. 
 They are the produce mainly of a kind of vine which occurs 
 
6s6 WINES OF ARAGON &^ VALENCIA. [chap. 
 
 in a white and a black variety, and passes through the world 
 under the name of Alicante. Its name at Alicante is 
 " Tintilla." It is a large plant, with long canes ; the points of 
 the young shoots are woolly, the leaf-stalks long, the leaves 
 five-lobed, deeply incised, uneven and puckered, light green 
 above, woolly on the lower face. The bunch is very large, 
 loose, hanging by a long stalk, which forms the axis, and does 
 not give off wings or strong branches. The berries are fleshy, 
 juicy, provided with a thick skin, and resemble much the 
 berries of the Hambro' grapes, so well known in this country. 
 The vine has to be cut with long canes and short spurs at the 
 same time. The bunches must not be exposed to the sun, as 
 the stalks have a tendency to become scorched, and to drop 
 the grapes. The blue Alicante is immensely fertile, steady in 
 blossom, but ripens late, so*that it yields good wine only in 
 good situations of its very warm fatherland. According to 
 Sprenger, the red Alicante is the vine the juice of which forms 
 the basis of most Spanish red wines. It is largely cultivated 
 in the south of France. The white Alicante ripens somewhat 
 earlier than the blue, but is neither as esteemed nor as much 
 cultivated as the blue. The red wines of Alicante mostly 
 require the addition of alcohol. Those which are intended 
 for exportation receive from S to 7 gallons of Catalan 
 spirit of 63 per cent, or 64 per cent, over proof strength to 
 the butt. Mr. Bernard obtained two samples of Alicante 
 (i860, Nos. 30 and 31), which he was assured were pure 
 natural wines, free from any addition of spirit : they con- 
 tained respectively 286 and 29*2 per cent, of pr. sp. The 
 British Consul at Alicante informed him that a quantity of 
 Alicante wine had in i860 been shipped to England, to which 
 an addition of only 3 to i\ gallons of spirit per pipe had been 
 made at the time of exportation, no spirit having previously 
 been added ; and that on arrival in England the whole was 
 found to be completely spoiled. 
 
 The wines of Valencia, Benicarlo, and Alicante being rich 
 in colour, are made up to imitate Port wine, and the casks are 
 prepared to resemble Port pipes in size and appearance. A 
 very large proportion of these wines, Mr. Bernard informs us. 
 
XX.] WINES OF GRANADA. 657 
 
 finds its way to France, for the purpose of being blended with 
 other wines, no doubt having a large share in the imitation 
 Ports shipped to this country from Marseilles, and in red 
 wines from Bordeaux. 
 
 WINES OF GRANADA. 
 
 The most renowned viticultural district of this province is 
 that of Malaga, termed Axarquia. It is very mountainous ; 
 the hills consist of clay-schist, penetrated by veins of quartz ; 
 beneath this formation there is chalk. The more solid 
 schist is termed "herizza;" that which easily disintegrates, 
 "lantejudla" or " pizarra ;" the latter forms the most favour- 
 able soil for the cultivation of the vine. The climate of this 
 mountainous district is exceedingly warm and moist up to a 
 height of several thousand feet above the level of the sea, 
 and enables the vines to produce three crops of grapes every 
 year. The first harvest takes place in June, and is used 
 for raisins exclusively. The second vintage takes place in 
 September, and yields a dry wine somewhat resembling 
 sherry. The last vintage takes place in October and Novem- 
 ber, and gives the particular wines known as Malagas. Of 
 these the following varieties are commonly distinguished :— 
 I. Pedro Ximenes, made from the vine of the same name ; 
 they are delicate wines, with much bouquet, but less body 
 than that of Xeres. 2. Coloured wines. These while young 
 have a dark amber-colour and much saccharine. With age they 
 lose the sweetness in part, become fine and spirituous, and 
 acquire an extraordinary and characteristic bouquet. They 
 are the true Malaga wines of trade, to which the place owes 
 its reputation. They keep above a century, and do not 
 deteriorate in bottles or casks, which are only partially 
 filled. Their price begins with £,6 per bota, and rises to 
 ;^200, and higher with age. 3. Muscatel. Of these, two 
 varieties are distinguished, namely, Malaga-Muscat and "drip" 
 or " tear " Muscat. 4. Cherry wines, being liqueur wines, in 
 which acid cherries or morellas have been steeped. 5. Dry 
 white wines resembling sherries. 6. Malvasie, resembling 
 
 uu 
 
6s8 WINES OF GRANADA. [CHAP. 
 
 Madeira. 7. Tintos, coloured mostly very dark, sweet and 
 strong wines. 
 
 Mr. Bernard obtained some samples of wines from the stores 
 of the most extensive growers, proprietors, and exporters in 
 Malaga. The first (No. 32) was a dry wine, vintage 1858, 
 with 37'5 per cent. pr. sp. : the next (No. 33), a sweet wine, 
 vintage 1857, with 299 per cent. pr. sp. ; each of these had 
 been treated, it was alleged, in the usual manner, by the 
 addition of nine gallons of strong spirit, between the first and 
 second fermentations, or in the spring following the vintage. 
 The sample (No. 34), vintage 1847, with 37^5 per cent, of pr. 
 sp., was given to Mr. Bernard as a peculiar and exceptional 
 wine, having been made without the addition of spirit at any 
 period of its production. It was alleged that this remarkable 
 result was due to a particularly careful and extensive pruning 
 of the vines, which had been reduced to one or two branches, 
 and thus been compelled to concentrate their entire vigour 
 into a few rich bunches of grapes. The story, which seemed 
 at least very surprising to Mr. Bernard, appears to us quite 
 incredible. 
 
 The amount of wine produced annually in the Malaga 
 district is 80,000 arrobas, or 2,666 butts. Of these the greater 
 part is exported, mainly to America. Much also goes to 
 England, and the wine for both countries is prepared equally; 
 the practice of making up wines specially for the English 
 market not prevailing at Malaga. 
 
 The other wines of Spain, which we have alluded to in the 
 first paragraph of this chapter, have not as yet been suffi- 
 ciently examined for us to attempt a special description. The 
 railways which are now being rapidly built across the penin- 
 sula, may hereafter afford us the means of obtaining ourselves 
 the data necessary for that description. 
 
XX.] 
 
 VITICULTURAL STA TISTICS. 
 
 659 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS OF THE DISTRICT OF XERES DE 
 LA FRONTERA; SHOWING SURFACE OF VINEYARDS IN 
 ARANZADAS, NAMES OF PROPRIETORS, AND QUANTITY 
 IN BUTTS OF MUST PRODUCED.^ 
 
 CARRAOLA. 
 
 No. of 
 Ar^uizadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 26 
 
 f 
 100 
 12 
 
 8 
 48 
 
 22 
 
 7 
 30 
 18 
 
 25 
 
 30 
 
 Don Andres Osisto . 
 
 Herederos de Donna Juana Davila 
 
 Don Pedro Valiente . 
 
 Donna Maria Perez . 
 
 Don Juan Rodriguez . 
 
 Don Manuel Morena de Mord . 
 
 Don Francisco Avila. . 
 
 Don Jose Vitoria 
 
 Don .... 
 
 1 Testamentaria del Senor Marques de 
 ( Meritos 
 
 Don Pedro Padilla . 
 
 Don Fernando Moreno 
 
 Don Juan Arana 
 
 Don Francisco Montenegro 
 
 Don Ramon Chacon 
 
 
 80 
 120 
 
 244 
 
 14 
 24 
 
 48 
 
 10 
 
 142 
 
 100 
 
 21 
 80 
 
 4S 
 
 78 
 105 
 
 4274 
 
 
 
 i,S22 
 
 BARBAINA. 
 
 No. of 
 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 58 
 40 
 
 30 
 3° 
 9 
 48 
 18 
 38 
 40 
 
 3" 
 
 Don Jose Berrio 
 
 Sra Viuda de Don Manue Trapero 
 
 Sra Viuda de Don Jose Maria Blanco 
 
 Don Raphael Ortiz . 
 
 Senora Viuda de Francisco Delgado 
 
 Don Juan Garcia Perez 
 
 Don Jose Gutierrez . 
 
 Don Manuel Ponce . 
 
 Don Anacleto Cepero 
 
 Carried forward . 
 
 203 
 
 ICO 
 
 90 
 
 1 20 
 
 24 
 
 50 
 60 
 
 152 
 200 
 
 999 
 
 > From the evidence of Dr. Gorman before the Parliamentary Committee on 
 Duties on Wine (1852, p. 710, et seq.). These statistics were approximately correct 
 for a period dating about 1840. The great extension of viticulture since that time 
 makes a revision of the data desirable. 
 
 U U 2 
 
66o 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS 
 EARBAINA — continued. 
 
 [chap 
 
 No. of 
 Ararzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 3" 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 999 
 
 24 
 
 Don Tomas de la Quintata. 
 
 80 
 
 12 
 
 Donna Louisa Romero 
 
 36 
 
 9 
 
 Donna Ana Romero .... 
 
 27 
 
 52 
 
 Don Trito Pitarte .... 
 
 150 
 
 38 
 
 Don Francisco Gil de parte Arroyo . 
 
 76 
 
 30 
 
 Don Hacinto Ibanez . 
 
 60 
 
 8 
 
 Don Francisco Alonzo 
 
 20 
 
 40 
 
 Don Luis Gonsalez de la Cosera 
 
 100 
 
 21 
 
 Don Pablo Angulo . 
 
 60 
 
 9 
 
 Don Diego Aguila 
 
 30 
 
 16 
 
 Donna Francisca de Canas 
 
 5° 
 
 8 
 
 Don Jose Polo ... 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 Don Francisco de Cardenas 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 Don Vicente de la Torre 
 
 16 
 
 3 
 
 Don Manuel Diaz 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 Don Juan de Molina 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 Don Jose Jayme 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 Donna Beatriz Garrido 
 
 8 
 
 42 
 
 Senora Viuda de Don Juan de Medina 
 
 130 
 
 6 
 
 Don Juan Garcia .... 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 Don Martin Rodriguez 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 Don Jose Rendon 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 Don Tomas Codero . 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 Don Miguel de Medina 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 Don Antonio Cruzado 
 
 9 
 
 60 
 
 Don Ramou Salaza .... 
 
 200 
 
 70 
 
 Donna Maria Josefa de la Puente 
 
 210 
 
 50 
 
 Don Antonio Fajardo 
 
 160 
 
 6 
 
 Don Miguel Tellez .... 
 
 12 
 
 'S 
 
 Don Juan Jose Lopez 
 
 50 
 
 30 
 
 Senor Conde de Villa Creces 
 
 90 
 
 18 
 
 Don Manuel Ruiz de la Rabia 
 
 50 
 
 70 
 
 Don Antonio Ruiz Tagle . 
 
 280 
 
 30 
 
 Senora Viuda de Don Pedro Mercliin'i 
 
 60 
 
 40 
 
 Don Pedro Garcia Encina 
 
 140 
 
 30 
 
 Don Pedro de Sera . . . . 
 
 60 
 
 32 
 
 Don Jose de Pina .... 
 
 100 
 
 40 
 
 Don Fernando Rinz . . . ' 
 
 120 
 
 45 
 
 Don Pedro Jose de la Concha . ] 
 
 140 
 
 70 
 
 Don Juan David Gordon . 
 
 180 
 
 32 
 
 Don Juan Garcia 
 
 120 
 
 30 
 
 Don Miguel de Giles '. 
 
 80 
 
 80 
 
 Don Juan Estevan Apalategni . 
 
 320 
 
 20 
 
 Don Melchior Marguer 
 
 50 
 
 140 
 
 24 
 
 70 
 
 Don Justo Goni . . ". ' 
 
 8 
 
 Herederoz de Don Andres Diaz ' 
 
 10 
 
 Don Jose Maria Buendia . 
 
 25 
 iS 
 
 30 
 
 Don Pedro Rafael Sorela . 
 
 12 
 
 Don Antonio Rodriguez . 
 
 1,566 
 
 4,649 
 
XX.] 
 
 OF THE XERES DISTRICT. 
 
 SAN JULIAN AND EUIZ DIAZ. 
 
 66 1 
 
 No. of 
 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 butts of Must 
 produced. 
 
 3° 
 
 Don Carlos Benvinuti (su viiida) 
 
 100 
 
 20 
 
 Heiederos de Don Alberto Fortan 
 
 50 
 
 24 
 
 Viuda de Don Ramon Mariscal . 
 
 48 
 
 3° 
 
 Don Antonio Amador 
 
 50 
 
 7 
 
 Don Francisco IMorales 
 
 14 
 
 40 
 
 Don Manuel de Pina . 
 
 140 
 
 5° 
 
 Don Juan Gonzalez .... 
 
 120 
 
 30 
 
 Dou Francisco de Paula . 
 
 60 
 
 13 
 
 Don Juan Copero 
 
 39 
 
 16 
 
 Don Juan Aguilar 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 Don Manuel Luis Fernandez 
 
 130 
 
 20 
 
 Don Juan Diaz 
 
 60 
 
 20 
 
 Don Jose Sanchez 
 
 80 
 
 20 
 
 Viuda de Don Pedro Sanchez 
 
 50 
 
 5 
 
 Don Manuel de Nieves 
 
 20 
 
 5 
 
 Don Juan de Nieves . 
 
 20 
 
 17 
 
 Don Juan Cabrera . 
 
 45 
 
 18 
 
 Don Jose Martinez 
 
 60 
 
 63 
 
 Don Juan Jose Maderne . 
 
 240 
 
 37 
 
 Don Lucas Caballero 
 
 no 
 
 16 
 
 Don Jose Maria Villavisencio 
 
 48 
 
 18 
 
 Don Angel Martinez 
 
 60 
 
 30 
 
 Don Jose de la Rosa y Miranda 
 
 120 
 
 30 
 
 Herederos de Don Julian del Villar 
 
 120 
 
 35 
 
 Dou Jose Albarez .... 
 
 70 
 
 13 
 
 Don Jose Moreno .... 
 
 40 
 
 IS 
 
 Don Jose Garcia .... 
 
 40 
 
 15 
 
 Viuda de Don Jose del Toro 
 
 45 
 
 60 
 
 Don Jose Madero y Parodi 
 
 132 
 
 60 
 
 Donna Josefa Gregoria de la Casa y ] 
 Piedra ... ■ ■ S 
 
 1 80 
 
 
 3° 
 
 Don Sebastian Heredero 
 
 no 
 
 4 
 
 Don Jose Duarte 
 
 3« 
 
 12 
 
 Don Nicolas Padilla 
 
 8 
 
 50 
 
 Srcs Lacoste y Capdepon . 
 
 150 
 
 900 
 
 2,643 
 
 CORCHUELO. 
 
 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 No of 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 
 produced. 
 
 32 
 
 Don Pedro Lopez Ruiz . 
 
 100 
 
 18 
 
 Donna Josefa Carmona 
 
 50 
 
 35 
 
 Don Manuel Ramirez de Cartagena . 
 
 100 
 80 
 
 3° 
 
 Don Agustin Romero 
 
 7 
 
 Don Cristoval Savorido 
 Carried forward 
 
 25 
 
 355 
 
 122 
 
662 
 
 PIT/CULTURAL STATISTICS. 
 CORCHUELO — continued. 
 
 [CHAP 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 butts of Must 
 produced. 
 
 122 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 355 
 
 6 
 
 Don Diego Reguina . . 
 
 15 
 
 12 
 
 Viuda de Don Francisco Garisa 
 
 36 
 
 i6 
 
 Don Francisco de Morales 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 Donna Juana Garisa .... 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 Don Jose Blanco .... 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 Don Francisco Perez 
 
 12 
 
 17 
 
 Donna Isabel Canchola 
 
 50 
 
 lo 
 
 Don Diego Rodriguez 
 
 "^o 
 
 13 
 
 Herederos de Don Cristoval Lizano . 
 
 38 
 
 s 
 
 Don Fernando de Puertas . 
 
 20 
 
 13 
 
 Don Manuel Melero .... 
 
 39 
 
 9 
 
 Don Manuel de Huertas . 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 Dan Pedro Requelme y Novela . 
 
 60 
 
 40 
 
 Don Francisco de Sal^ . 
 
 120 
 
 14 
 
 Don Bartolome Lopez 
 
 45 
 
 30 
 
 Don Antonio Perez .... 
 
 100 
 
 14 
 
 Don Juan Jose Ceballos 
 
 34 
 
 9 
 
 Donna Juana Garrido 
 
 27 
 
 9 
 
 Donna Buenaventura Arana 
 
 30 
 
 7 
 
 Don Francisco Sereno 
 
 21 
 
 6 
 
 Don Salvador Jimenez 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 Don Pedro Gutierrez 
 
 30 
 
 12 
 
 Viuda de Don Juan Blanco 
 
 36 
 
 20 
 
 Don Jose Ruiz de Castillo . 
 
 60 
 
 24 
 
 Don Juan Lomoa .... 
 
 80 
 
 19 » 
 
 Don Jose Orrantia . 
 
 60 
 
 
 Don Pedro Alvarez .... 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 Don Pedro Cantillo .... 
 
 20 
 
 30 
 
 Don Manuel de la Torre . 
 
 60 
 
 20 
 
 Don Nicolas Gamboa 
 
 60 
 
 8 
 
 Herederos de Don Tomas Jimenez 
 
 16 
 
 24 
 
 Don Francisco de Cala 
 
 60 
 
 8 
 
 Don Juan Garron .... 
 
 30 
 
 6 
 
 Don Pedro Zerrado . 
 
 24 
 
 594 
 
 1.730 
 
 ANINA. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 15 
 
 40 
 
 15 
 30 
 10 
 
 8 
 20 
 27 
 24 
 
 Don Juan Jose Mademe . 
 
 Don Pablo Gonzalez 
 
 Don Jose Fernandez y Hermanos 
 
 Don Hipolita Avela .... 
 
 Don Beraabe Franco . 
 
 Don Pedro Cardoso . 
 
 Don Ramou Lorente 
 
 El Marques de Campo Real 
 
 Don Juan Marquesi .... 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 45 
 120 
 
 50 
 120 
 
 16 
 40 
 80 
 60 
 
 189 
 
 361 
 
XX.] 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 3 
 3 
 13 
 5 
 6 
 
 S 
 
 24 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 16 
 
 8 
 65 
 
 177 
 
 OF THE XERES DISTRICT. 
 
 AN I NA — continued. 
 
 663 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of IWust 
 
 produced. 
 
 189 
 12 
 52 
 22 
 
 17 
 20 
 lO 
 12 
 
 17 
 20 
 
 17 
 40 
 
 32 
 13 
 40 
 24 
 
 25 
 12 
 10 
 
 7 
 12 
 
 7 
 17 
 10 
 10 
 
 1^ 
 30 
 17 
 12 
 12 
 
 Brought forward 
 Viuda de Don Francisco Morales 
 Don Joaquin Rivero .... 
 Herederos de Don Francisco Avila . 
 Don Angel Velarde . 
 Herederos de Don Jose Leon 
 Don Gregorio Sanchez Bustamente 
 Don Fernando Benites 
 Don Sebastian de Morales 
 Don Francisco Montenegro 
 Don Pedro Cantillo . 
 Don Ignacio Sanchez Bustamente 
 Don Julian Lopez 
 
 Don Pedro Richart .... 
 Don Juan Salazar .... 
 Don Pedro Rodriguez 
 Herederos de Don Jose Gutierrez Valle 
 Don Manuel de Sierra 
 Don Domingo Fernandez . 
 Don Juan Villegas .... 
 Don Fernando Villegas 
 Don Pedro Lopez Malo . 
 Don Jose de Pina .... 
 Don Jose Regife .... 
 Don Juan Tarquin 
 Don Luis de la Cuadra 
 Don Jose Adorno . . 
 Donna Francisca Hontoria 
 Don Sebastian Benitez 
 - Don Francisco Rubiales 
 Don Antonio Padilla 
 
 361 
 24 
 
 ISO 
 5° 
 60 
 80 
 30 
 
 5Q 
 
 60 
 
 48 
 
 5° 
 120 
 no 
 
 SO 
 200 
 100 
 100 
 
 30 
 
 40 
 
 t 
 
 28 
 
 70 ' 
 
 40 
 
 SO 
 200 
 240 
 
 90 
 
 90 
 
 48 
 
 40 
 
 828 
 
 2,904 
 
 TOCINA AND PUERTO ESCONDIDO. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 Don Jose Barrera 
 Don Antonio Gonsalez 
 Don Manuel Alcedo 
 Don Francisco Gonsalez 
 Don Manuel Corchones 
 Don Domingo Rodrigues 
 Don Mateo Balbas . 
 Don Jose Aguilera . 
 Don Juan Camacho . 
 Don Francisco Laso . 
 Don Antonio Padilla 
 El canonigo Zurita . 
 Don Cristoval Cortes 
 Don Manuel Juan Calvo 
 
 12 
 12 
 40 
 20 
 12 
 
 IS 
 80 
 
 30 
 20 
 16 
 
 9 
 40 
 
 32 
 3SO 
 
 688 
 
664 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS 
 
 [chap. 
 
 LAS PEONIAS. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 40 
 
 5° 
 40 
 
 72 
 40 
 
 .40 
 
 30 
 
 40 
 
 100 
 
 Don Antonio Sanchez 
 
 Don Luis Oneale 
 
 Don Jose Quijano .... 
 
 Don Jose Colon 
 
 Don Jose Sanz ..... 
 
 Don Francisco Peregil 
 
 Don Antonio Garcia 
 
 Don Manuel Alvarez 
 
 Don Isidore Castrisione 
 
 120 
 
 150 i 
 120 1 
 420 
 
 200 i 
 120 
 120 
 80 
 600 
 
 452 
 
 1,930 
 
 CERRO DE SANTIAGO. 
 
 No of 
 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 Aranzada=. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 butts of Must 
 produced. 
 
 20 
 
 Don Diego Orbaneja y Roy 
 
 60 
 
 70 
 
 Don Francisco Orrantia 
 
 350 
 
 6 
 
 Don Jose de Vargas . 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 Don Maria de Vargas 
 
 12 
 
 60 
 
 Viuda de Don Julian Pemartin . 
 
 100 
 
 1 12 
 
 Donna Ines Rodriguez 
 
 36 
 
 30 
 
 Don Antonio Barbado 
 
 100 
 
 24 
 
 Don Pedro Rafael Sorela 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 Don Geronimo Garisa 
 
 18 
 
 12 
 
 Don Jose Garisa 
 
 5° 
 
 II 
 
 Donna Maria de Huertas . 
 
 40 
 
 ! 257 
 
 815 
 
 CERRO DEL PELLADO Y TIZON. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 proc'uced. 
 
 6 
 10 
 
 30 
 24 
 
 5 
 40 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 24 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 20 
 
 Don Melchior Franco 
 
 Don Cayetano Perez 
 
 Donna Luisa Ponce . 
 
 Don Juan Ortez .... 
 
 Don Juan Grajales 
 
 Herederos de Don Pedro Simo 
 
 Don Domingo Paradas 
 
 Don Jose Gamero 
 
 Don Miguel de Giles 
 
 Don Jose Pounjilione 
 
 Viuda de Juan Tiiano 
 
 Don Jose Guisado .... 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 12 
 
 30 
 60 
 
 50 
 15 
 120 
 15 
 18 
 70 
 
 52 
 18 
 
 60 
 
 192 
 
 518 
 
XX.] 
 
 OF THE XERES DISTRICT. 
 
 CERRO DEL PELLADO Y TIZON — continued. 
 
 665 
 
 No. of 
 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 bulls of Must 
 produced. 
 
 192 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 578 
 
 60 
 
 Herederos de Don Juan de Mendoza . 
 
 '5° 
 
 30 
 
 Donna Maria de Jesus Davila . 
 
 90 
 
 6 
 
 Don Juan de Moya .... 
 
 24 
 
 38 
 
 Senor Marques de Casa Vargas . 
 
 150 
 
 25 
 
 Donna Maria Lopez 
 
 •60 
 
 6 
 
 Don Juan Munoi . . ' . 
 
 18 
 
 20 
 
 Don Juan Rendon .... 
 
 30 
 
 3° 
 
 Don Josefa de Matos 
 
 100 
 
 8 
 
 Don Jose Capano .... 
 
 24 
 
 40 
 
 Don Cayetano Rivero 
 
 120 
 
 6 
 
 Don Diego Copano .... 
 
 16 
 
 24 
 
 Donna Maria de Consolacion Sanchez 
 
 60 
 
 n 
 
 Don Juan Quijal .... 
 
 3° 
 
 4 
 
 Don jfuan Cabrera .... 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 Don Juan Gonsalez . 
 
 20 
 
 4 
 
 Don Cayetano Garcia 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 Don Silvestre Gutierrez 
 
 90 
 
 24 
 
 Don Pedro Rechar .... 
 
 60 
 
 10 
 
 Herederos de Donna Ines Munos 
 
 28 
 
 5 
 
 Don Manuel Brito .... 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 Don Joaquin de la Torre . 
 
 60 
 
 40 
 
 Don Manuel Sanchez Silva 
 
 1 20 
 
 20 
 
 Don Juan Sisto Oronoz 
 
 30 
 
 40 
 
 Don Francisco Sanchez Ibera . 
 
 130 
 
 707 
 
 1,970 
 
 MACHARNUDO, ALTO Y BAJO. 
 
 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 butts of Must 
 produced. 
 
 80 
 
 Don Jose Aranda .... 
 
 190 
 
 1 4 
 
 Don Francisco Munoz 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 Don Antonio Munoz 
 
 12 
 
 ! 4 
 
 Donna Isabel Gusman 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 Don Cayetano Garcia 
 
 24 
 
 ; 40 
 
 Don Jose Moreno 
 
 130 
 
 ! 13 
 
 Herederos de Don Jose de la Cega . 
 
 39 
 
 7 
 
 Don Jose Fernandez . 
 
 21 
 
 12 
 
 Donna Elvira Moreno 
 
 40 
 
 18 
 
 Don Domingo Miran 
 
 60 
 
 20 
 
 Don Rafael Garcia . 
 
 SO 
 
 24 
 
 La Viuda de Bemiudez 
 
 60 
 
 49 
 
 Don Jose Paul . 
 
 100 
 
 4 
 
 Don Diego Cano .... 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 Don ose Rivas .... 
 
 5° 
 
 40 
 
 Don ose Cosio .... 
 
 80 
 
 12 
 
 Herederos de Don Tomas Rendon 
 
 24 
 
 30 
 
 Don Manuel Calvario 
 
 50 
 
 32 
 
 Testamenta de Don Francisco Sacarron 
 
 66 
 
 30 
 
 Testamenta de Don Ana Alonso Arias 
 
 60 
 
 30 
 
 Donna Joaquin a Davila 
 Carried forvfard 
 
 go 
 
 472 
 
 1 182 
 
666 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS 
 MACHARNUDO, ALTO T sK'iO— continued. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors, 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 472 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 1 182 
 
 6 
 
 Don Antonio Diaz . 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 Don Jose Diaz . 
 
 IS 
 
 50 
 
 Don Diego de Lara . 
 
 120 
 
 10 
 
 Donna Francisco Pica 
 
 24 
 
 10 
 
 Don Jose Cortes 
 
 30 
 
 60 
 
 Don Juan Garcia 
 
 180 
 
 460 
 
 Herederos de Don Pedro Domecq 
 
 1,200 
 
 18 
 
 Don Pedro Ardila .... 
 
 60 
 
 60 
 
 Don Diego Orbaneja y Perez . 
 
 ISO 
 
 SO 
 
 Don Rafael Ribero de la Tijera 
 
 130 
 
 22 
 
 Don Rafael de Fuentes CantUIana 
 
 80 
 
 30 
 
 Donna Mariana de Medina 
 
 90 
 
 38 
 
 Viuda de Don Francisco Perez Munoz 
 
 120 
 
 8 
 
 Don Raman Martinez 
 
 24 
 
 30 
 
 Don Pedro Padilla . 
 
 90 
 
 10 
 
 Don Jose Garcia 
 
 40 
 
 7 
 
 Don Juan Lopez 
 
 21 
 
 30 
 
 Don \ ose Garrafa 
 
 90 
 
 6 
 
 Don uan Rejifo 
 
 24 
 
 8 
 
 Don Benito Aguado . 
 
 40 
 
 17 
 
 Don Jose Rejifo 
 
 34 
 
 30 
 
 Don Juan Perez Becerra 
 
 80 
 
 70 
 
 Don Simon de la Sierra 
 
 280 
 
 2S 
 
 Don Pedro Letran 
 
 70 
 
 10 
 
 Donna Josefa Rosendo 
 
 30 
 
 40 
 
 Don Tiburcio Ochoteca 
 
 150 
 
 40 
 
 Don Juan Rendon . 
 
 80 
 
 100 
 
 Don Manuel Domecq 
 
 300 
 
 6 
 
 Don Juan Naranjo .... 
 
 24 
 
 6 
 
 Bartolome Naranjo . 
 
 24 
 
 10 
 
 Don Juan Franco 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 St. Conde de Montejil 
 
 100 
 
 90 
 
 Herederos de Don Miguel Esteves 
 
 3SO 
 
 30 
 
 Don Roberto White . 
 
 7S 
 
 1,895 
 
 S>355 
 
 CARRASCAL. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 10 
 16 
 32 
 34 
 28 
 
 30 
 40 
 10 
 13 
 
 s 
 
 Don Diego Sanchez Barreno 
 
 Don Juan Fontan .... 
 
 Don Antonio Arron .... 
 
 Don Francisco Perez Cepero 
 
 Don Francisco Fernandez . 
 
 Don Jose Alvarez Patino . 
 
 Don Vidal de Paramo 
 
 Herederos de Don Tomas Cordero 
 
 Don Juan Lopez Cepero . 
 
 Don Pedro Gaudon . 
 
 i6o 
 
 136 
 
 84 
 
 120 
 
 80 
 
 20 
 
 39 
 12 
 
 218 
 
 771 
 
XX.] 
 
 OF THE XERES DISTRICT. 
 CARRASCAI, — continued. 
 
 667 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 218 
 6 
 •17 
 24 
 17 
 17 
 85 
 
 6 
 14 
 30 
 IS 
 37 
 
 S 
 
 S 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 30 
 32 
 
 IS 
 
 20 
 20 
 40 
 
 s 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 13 
 
 SO 
 
 28 
 
 31 
 14 
 18 
 
 30 
 17 
 40 
 
 30 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 S 
 5 
 S 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 10 
 
 4 
 6 
 10 
 30 
 35 
 3° 
 7 
 
 3° 
 30 
 
 1,226 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 Brought forward 
 Don Francisco Aparcero . 
 Don Juan Blanco 
 Don Tomas de Castro 
 Don Juan Terez 
 
 Don Francisco de Paula Palacios 
 Don Manuel Monti y Diaz 
 Don Francisco Leal . 
 Don Jose Fantoni 
 Don Juan Francisco Alduncin 
 Don Francisco Franco 
 Don Francisco Rabin de Celis 
 Don Jose Camacho . 
 Don Francisco Conde 
 Don Miguel Conde . 
 Don Antonio de Pasos 
 Herederos de Don Cayetano Quintero 
 Viuda de Don Juan Otero . 
 Don Patricio Garvey 
 Viuda de Don Jose Gallardo 
 Don Sebastian Gonsalez . 
 Don Manuel Romero 
 Don Jose Martinez . 
 
 Don Ignacio Suarez . 
 
 Donna Francisca de Molina 
 
 Donna Catalina Rodriguez 
 
 Don Jose Maria Crespo 
 
 Don Jose Lacaste 
 
 Don Francisco Maria Perez y Gomez 
 
 Senora Marquesa de Villamarta 
 
 Don Benito Rivero . 
 
 Don Jose Caballero . 
 
 Don Jose de la Rosa 
 
 Herederos de Don Cristoval Villegas 
 
 Donna Feliciana Abad Romano 
 
 Don Antonio Gonsalez 
 
 Don Francisco Perez de la Riva 
 
 Don Jose Casao 
 
 Don Francisco Paula Palamino 
 
 Don Simon Lopez 
 
 Don Domingo Gonsalez . 
 
 Don Jose Galvez 
 
 Don Sebastian Cabecas 
 
 Don Juan Gonsalez . 
 
 Don Francisco Sierra 
 
 Don Carlos Lidier . 
 
 Don Miguel Martinez 
 
 Don Juan del Cerro . 
 
 Don Jose Gonsalez . 
 
 Don Pedro Manuel de la Camara 
 
 Viuda de Don — Elias 
 
 Don Jose de la Concha 
 
 Don Francisco Medina 
 
 Don Manuel de la Torre . 
 
 Don Diego de Lara . 
 
 771 
 
 9 
 40 
 60 
 
 50 
 40 
 
 2SS 
 
 IS 
 
 42 
 
 120 
 
 30 
 
 III 
 IS 
 14 
 16 
 
 32 
 
 12 
 
 80 
 
 96 
 
 4S 
 
 40 
 60 
 
 so 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 ID 
 30 
 ISO 
 
 S6 
 93 
 3S 
 72 
 120 
 
 59 
 
 no 
 
 102 
 
 110 
 
 16 
 
 18 
 
 20 
 
 20 
 
 16 
 
 24 
 18 
 18 
 
 24 
 12 
 18 
 30 
 120 
 
 95 
 90 
 21 
 70 
 60 
 
 3,661 
 
668 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 ESPARTINA. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 60 
 18 
 12 
 
 3^ 
 19 
 30 
 35 
 
 Viuda y herederos de Don F. Amador 
 
 Don Francisco Besada 
 
 Viuda de Don Domingo de los Rios . 
 
 Don Francisco Alonso 
 
 Don Juan Duran .... 
 
 Don Jose Perez de la Sierra 
 
 Don Jose Pomar 
 
 Don Geronimo Angulo y Davila 
 
 180 
 44 
 24 
 21 
 
 114 
 76 
 
 120 
 
 140 
 
 219 
 
 719 
 
 DUCHA. 
 
 No. of 
 Ar.inzadas. 
 
 60 
 
 27 
 
 5° 
 24 
 35 
 40 
 
 49 
 
 285 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Don Juan David Gordon . 
 Don Hipolito Abela . 
 Don Jose Gonsalez y Gonsalez 
 Don Mariana de Medina . 
 Viuda de Don Pedro Grajales 
 Don Estevan Bracho 
 Don Tomas Haron . 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 260 
 
 108 
 200 
 92 
 120 
 140 
 120 
 
 1,040 
 
 CUARTILLO. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 ! 
 Quantity in 
 butts (rf Must 
 produced. 
 
 5 
 4 
 4 
 8 
 6 
 6 
 
 9 
 6 
 
 24 
 72 
 
 Don Pedro Serrano .... 
 
 Don Gonsalo Quiroz 
 
 Don Juan Suarez 
 
 Don Francisco Molina 
 
 Don Antonio Arroyo 
 
 Don Juan Quintero . 
 
 Don Andrea Jarquin 
 
 Don Bias Barro 
 
 Viuda de Don Gonzalo Sanchez 
 
 Carried forward 
 
 16 
 16 
 16 
 32 
 22 
 18 
 38 
 24 
 48 
 
 230 
 
XX.] 
 
 OF THE XERES DISTRICT. 
 
 CUARTILLO — continued. 
 
 669 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. _ 
 
 Names of Proprietors. 
 
 Quantity in 
 
 butts of Must 
 
 produced. 
 
 72 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 230 
 
 18 
 
 Don Alonso de Vargas 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 Don Francisco Ramirez 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 Don Bartolome Baez 
 
 16 
 
 s 
 
 Don Antonio Algaria 
 
 18 
 
 7 
 
 Don Pedro Barba 
 
 28 
 
 S 
 4 
 
 Don Tomas Fernandez 
 
 IS 
 
 Don Diego Garisa .... 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 Don Jiian Suarez .... 
 
 40 
 
 4 
 4 
 3 
 3 
 5 
 6 
 
 Don Pedro Cabrera . 
 
 16 
 
 Don Juan Galan .... 
 
 12 
 
 Don Manuel Munoz .... 
 
 10 
 
 Don Pedro Carmona 
 
 12 
 
 Don Francisco de Medina 
 
 20 
 
 Don Andres Fernandez 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 Don Jose de Morales 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 16 
 
 Don Antonio Ruiz . 
 
 20 
 
 Viuda de Don Pedro Pino 
 
 48 
 
 10 
 
 Don Juan de Lara .... 
 
 40 
 
 6 
 
 Don Luis Alcedo .... 
 
 18 
 
 24 
 
 Don Augustin Perez de la Riva . 
 
 72 
 
 6 
 
 Don Juan Andrade .... 
 
 24 
 
 10 
 
 Don Juan Romero .... 
 
 50 
 
 6 
 
 ( Testamentaria de Don Francisco 
 ( Gutierrez . . . . . 
 
 24 
 
 4 
 
 Don Antonio Goyno 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 Don Geronimo Garisa 
 
 56 
 
 4 
 
 Don Benito Moreno .... 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 Don Jose Tamayo 
 
 24 
 
 '1 
 
 Donna Maria Garcia 
 
 60 
 
 Don Francisco Espinosa . 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 Don Diego Cruzado .... 
 
 32 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 Don Juan Fernandez 
 
 36 
 
 Don Domingo Fernandez . 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 14 
 
 Don Miguel de Gala .... 
 
 12 
 
 Donna Maria de los Angustias Sauchez 
 
 5° 
 
 8 
 
 Don Jose Guillen .... 
 
 i6 
 
 7 
 
 Don Jose Fernandez .... 
 
 40 
 
 8 
 
 Don Juan Gabriel .... 
 
 45 
 
 6 
 
 Don Martin Fernandez 
 
 24 
 
 9 
 
 Don Miguel Florinda 
 
 36 
 
 10 
 
 Don Eugenio Bernal 
 
 50 
 
 s 
 
 Don Augusten Vasquez . 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 Dou Jose Gonsalez .... 
 
 20 
 
 50 
 
 Don Manuel de Veas 
 
 200 
 
 60 
 
 Don Fulgencio Perea 
 
 240 
 
 1,842 
 
 501 
 
670 
 
 VITICULTURAL STATISTICS. 
 
 TWELVE SMALL VILLAGES. 
 
 [chap. 
 
 Names of Villages. 
 
 Colores 
 
 Palmosa 
 
 Torros 
 
 Anajeras 
 
 Bonayna 
 
 San Cristoval 
 
 Mata CardlUos 
 
 Gibalcon 
 
 CibuUo 
 
 Parpalana 
 
 Caldereras . 
 
 Zolete 
 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 40 
 68 
 242 
 60 
 90 
 
 5° 
 40 
 124 
 
 30 
 120 
 112 
 161 
 
 1,137 
 
 PAGOS DE BARRO (CLAY DISTRICT). 
 
 Butts 
 of Must, 
 
 160 
 340 
 486 
 180 
 360 
 150 
 160 
 
 372 
 90 
 360 
 448 
 644 
 
 3,75° 
 
 Names of Villages. 
 
 Aianzadas. 
 
 Butts 
 of Must. 
 
 Monteal^e. 
 
 Valdeltoro ... 
 
 Mesa de Da Rosa . 
 
 Fuente de Pedro Diaz . 
 
 Geraldino y la Granja . 
 
 Bogas ... 
 
 Rabo Atun . ... 
 
 403 
 
 332 
 33 
 
 1^ 
 
 67 
 
 112 
 
 1,209 
 996 
 
 99 
 204 
 320 
 181 
 448 
 
 1,078 
 
 3,457 
 
 PAGOS DE ARENA (SAND DISTRICT). 
 
 The wines grown in these villages are consumed by the people. 
 
 Villages. 
 
 Caretadas de 
 Verdea. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Fuente de la Feja 
 Piedre de Mirabas 
 Pago del S. Jose . 
 Picaduenas . 
 Santa Fe . 
 Cruz Colorada 
 
 Carried forward . 
 
 168 
 
 180 
 168 
 180 
 117 
 
 42 
 
 '^ 
 82 
 4S 
 39 
 
 930 
 
 307 
 
XX.] 
 
 OF THE XERES DISTRICT. 
 PAGOS DE ARENA (sAND DISTRICT) — Continued. 
 
 671 
 
 Villages. 
 
 Caretadas de 
 
 No. of 
 
 Verdea. 
 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 930 
 
 307 
 
 Herseria 
 
 123 
 
 41 
 
 Arroyo del Merabrillo . 
 
 284 
 
 71 
 
 Valde Pajuela .... 
 
 240 
 
 80 
 
 Pie de Rey 
 
 70 
 
 19 
 
 Pinar de Alcazas 
 
 171 
 
 57 
 
 Laigalo 
 
 1,680 
 
 420 
 
 Caulina (Abiertos) 
 
 320 
 
 80 
 
 Peliron 
 
 400 
 
 100 
 
 Perreba . . . . 
 
 904 
 
 226 
 
 Llano del Matadero 
 
 125 
 
 25 
 
 Canaleja 
 
 250 
 
 70 
 
 5-497 
 
 1,496 
 
 GENERAL R^SUMfi OF THE ABOVE ENUMERATED PAGOS, 
 THEIR ARANZADAS OF VINEYARDS, AND THEIR PRODUC- 
 TION OF MUST IN BOTAS. 
 
 Pages. 
 
 No. of 
 Aranzadas. 
 
 No. of Botas. 
 
 Carraola 
 
 Barbaina .... 
 
 S. Julian 
 
 Corchuelo ... 
 
 Anina .... 
 
 Puerto escondido y Tocina 
 
 Las Peonias .... 
 
 Cerro de Santiago 
 
 Cerro del Pellado y Tizon 
 
 Machamudo 
 
 Carrascal 
 
 Espartina . 
 
 Ducha 
 
 Cuartillo 
 
 4274 
 1,566 
 900 
 
 594 
 828 
 
 177 
 452 
 
 257 
 707 
 
 1,895 
 
 1,226 
 
 219 
 
 28s 
 
 501 
 
 1,522 
 4,649 
 2,643 
 1,730 
 2,904 
 
 688 
 1,930 
 
 815 
 1,970 
 
 5,355 
 3,661 
 719 
 1,040 
 1,842 
 
 10,034! 
 
 31,468 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 THE WINES OF PORTUGAL. 
 
 Topography of the port wine district. — Valley of the Douro. — Upper and Lower 
 Corgo. — Preparation of soil on the Douro. — Varieties of vines grown on the 
 Douro. — Mode of cultivating the vine. — Vintage and modes of vinification. 
 — ^Jeropiga. — Remarks on vinification on the Douro. — On the addition of 
 brandy to port wine. — Description of a natural dry Alto Douro wine. — Spec- 
 trum of pure port wine. — The elder-tree on the Douro. — Spectrum of elder- 
 beiTy juice. — Historical notes of the port wine trade. — Value of port wine. — 
 White port. — Possible extension of production of port wines. — Alphabetical 
 list of the principal places in the districts of the Alto Douro. — Other wines of 
 Portugal. — Description of a wine called ' ' Consumo. " 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF THE PORT WINE DISTRICT. 
 
 The river Douro issues from Spain, crosses the northern 
 part of Portugal in a westerly direction, and flows into the 
 Atlantic Ocean in the bay of Porto. To the north of this 
 bay, and about three miles inland from the ocean, lies the 
 town of the same name, also called Oporto, and to the south 
 of it the suburb Villa Nova. 
 
 The wine districts of the Douro begin at its entrance into 
 Portuguese territory. But here in the highest part the area of 
 cultivation is yet limited, and the conformation of the soil not 
 so favourable as in the middle of its course. It is on both 
 sides of a tributary of the Douro which comes from the north, 
 the river Corgo, that the cultivation of the vine is more 
 extended, and, as regards the production of a particular class 
 of wine, most successful. 
 
 The district which had the most ancient cuhivation is that 
 
CHAP. XXI.] PREPARATION OF SOIL. 673 
 
 west of or below the river Corgo, usually termed the Lower 
 Corgo. This begins at a distance of about forty-two miles 
 English above Oporto, and occupies the triangular space be- 
 tween the Douro and Rio Corgo. The entire valley of the 
 Rio Corgo properly belongs to the district, but the part east 
 of the river is small in comparison to the western section. 
 As the demand for port wine increased, cultivation ascended 
 the Douro, until it occupied the whole of the available soil 
 of an area extending about thirty miles English along both 
 banks of the Douro, from east to west, and ten miles from 
 north to south, including the valleys of the Corgo, the Penhao, 
 and some smaller rivulets. 
 
 The part east of the Corgo ending near the river Taah, is 
 termed the Upper Corgo. Here the soil is not very deep, but 
 very stony, more nearly resembling the debris from a stone 
 quarry, and produces a very dense must. In the Lower Corgo 
 the soil is generally deeper and more loamy, and the country 
 less mountainous than in the upper. The soil in the entire 
 district is the product of the disintegration under the influence 
 of the atmosphere of a brown, slaty schistose rock, which 
 forms a great number of lofty and precipitous hills. A great 
 extent of the district known as the wine country is not suscep- 
 tible of any other cultivation but that of the vine. 
 
 PREPARATION OF THE SOIL ON THE DOURO. 
 
 The exceedingly stony nature of the soil throughout the 
 district, and particularly in the Upper Corgo, renders the 
 use of the spade impossible ; and even the ordinary hoe, 
 the general implement of hand-labour in Portugal, cannot 
 be employed in the wine district. The tool used is a hoe 
 {euxadd) having two strong prongs instead of the usual 
 cutting part, and a heavy mass of iron on the opposite side. 
 With the forked part the soil and the large stones in the vine- 
 yards are turned over ; with the other they receive one or two 
 blows, which break them up, and expose their fragments to 
 the decomposing action of the atmosphere. 
 
 The average daily wages, with food supplied, are, for a 
 
 X X 
 
674 VINES AND THEIR CULTIVATION. [chap. 
 
 vine-dresser, \s. ; for a common labourer with the hoe, from 
 2,d. to \od. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES GROWN ON THE DOURO. 
 There are a great variety-' of vines grown in the district; 
 some give delicate grapes, producing light and delicate wine. 
 Each section has again its peculiar set of vines, differing 
 in the character of the wine they produce. The Sotizdo 
 grape imparts the darkest colour of all the Douro grapes 
 used for wine ; but the wine requires much brandy for its 
 preservation, and is deficient in bouquet and flavour. 
 
 The Verdeilho yields a fine peculiar wine. It is the vine 
 which Australian settlers have selected from the sets of -the 
 Douro for their distant plantations. 
 
 The Mourisco, a grape producing a wine with body and 
 colour, but coarse. 
 
 The Bastardo is a vine much grown in the Lower Corgo, 
 and a type of all the species there cultivated. It produces fine 
 wine, of delicate flavour, but with little colour. 
 
 The Alvarilhao is also frequently used in the Lower Corgo. 
 
 The vines which form the general sets of the vineyards in 
 the Upper Corgo are not so fertile, but the wine obtained from 
 them has more body, a very full colour, and a remarkable 
 but coarse flavour. The most frequently cultivated varieties 
 are — • 
 
 The Totiriga. 
 
 The Tinta Francisca (probably the teinturier). 
 
 The Tinta Caa. The two latter varieties are mainly grown 
 for the sake of their colouring matter. 
 
 MODE OF CULTIVATING THE VINE. 
 The vines are grown close to the ground, but not creeping 
 over it, nor supported on pollards (trees with shortened 
 branches) or trellises as in most other parts of the Peninsula. 
 This culture is the most economical and the most rational 
 for the production of good wine. The vines are cut very 
 
 1 In the collection of the Royal Horticultural Society at Chiswick is a vine 
 labelled " Port wine or Claret," viz. the vine. This requires a better diagnosis. 
 
XXI. j VINTAGE AND VINIFICATION. 675 
 
 short, so that each of the two or three or more main 
 branches of the vine is allowed but two or three eyes for the 
 bearing branches, and one eye with the subsidiary small eye 
 for the growing of wood. It is the same cut as that in the 
 best situations of the Rheingau, with the exception of the 
 long bow, which is not frequently used on the Douro. Stakes 
 are used here and there. 
 
 VINTAGE AND MODES OF VINIFICATION." 
 The vintage generally takes place during the time between 
 the 29th of September and the loth of October. This is a 
 very late period for so southern a climate, and indicates at 
 once that the grapes are allowed to hang on the vines for some 
 time after they are actually ripe, in order to produce a con- 
 centration of their juices. At the time of the vintage great 
 numbers of labourers flock to the wine country from the 
 adjacent villages and from Gallicia, "hence called Gallegos ; 
 amongst these, women and boys preponderate. Their wages 
 , are on an average "jd. a day and food, which, however, does 
 not include bread. Many of the vine-growers make wine 
 themselves ; others sell their grapes to the manufacturers. 
 The larger houses, particularly the English firms, engaged in 
 this trade, are the most careful in their processes. However, 
 there are here all kinds of processes and utensils in force, 
 such as are known in other lands producing red wine. The 
 grapes are trodden by men on platforms, and the juice, mixed 
 with the stalks and husks, is removed to stone-built vats 
 (Portuguese, " Lagar"). The process of removing the stalks 
 is not practised. Hence all port wine (particularly in years 
 where the stalks are not dry and shrivelled) has a great 
 amount of astringency, which requires much time for its 
 partial subsidence and modification. When the fermentation 
 has so far proceeded that the amount of alcohol formed 
 counterbalances the specific gravity of the remaining sugar, 
 so far as to bring the glucometer to the zero-point, the 
 fermenting mass is greatly agitated, either by means of tools 
 or by men, who go into the vats naked. The stalks and 
 husks are now mixed with the new wine so intimately that 
 
 X X 2 
 
676 VIl^TAGE AND VINIFICATION. [chap. 
 
 most of the colouring matter is extracted from the husks. 
 This done, the wine is immediately drawn off by pumps, 
 syphons or taps, always guarded inside by some kind of 
 filter, and placed into tonnels, varying in capacity between 
 five-and-thirty pipes. 
 
 In good years, when the must contains more sugar than can 
 be decomposed by a first fermentation, the addition of brandy 
 to newly-drawn wine completes the first preparation ; but in 
 years in which sugar is deficient, this, as well as alcohol, and 
 not rarely colouring-matter, have to be supplied. Latterly 
 the cane and beet-root sugar of commerce are taken for this 
 purpose, and become converted, if added at the proper time, 
 into grape-sugar, or artificial grape-sugar is added as such. 
 But a common process is still the evaporation of a portion of 
 the must, and the addition of the syrup so obtained to the 
 other natural portion of must. Colouring-matter is supplied 
 to grapes, which seem to require it, by .sprinkling them 
 during the process of treading with the necessary amount 
 of dried and powdered elderberries, or a particular kind of 
 black-coloured cherries. It must be understood that in good 
 years grapes contain a sufficient amount of colouring matter 
 to give to the wine the desired tint : particularly when there 
 is a sufficient admixture of the " Tinto " vine in the set of the 
 vineyard, extraneous admixtures become unnecessary even in 
 middling years. But in a few of the very best years the port 
 wine assumes a sickly brownish red colour, which has to be 
 improved in tone by the admixture of something more 
 purple, and then anything is resorted to, from elderberries 
 and cherries to extract of Brazil-wood. These improve- 
 ments, however, take place later, and not during the process 
 of vinification. 
 
 The wine is left in the tonnels until the cold weather of the 
 autumn arrests what little fermentation the addition of brandy 
 had allowed to go on. Towards the middle of November the 
 wine has deposited its lees ; and, being now clear and bright, 
 is drawn off into pipes, containing each 1 1 5 gallons. In this 
 state it remains in the sheds and cellars of the Douro district 
 until the early spring of the following year. It is then 
 
XXI.] REMARKS ON VINIFICATION. 677 
 
 brought by boats down the river Douro, and stored in the 
 warehouses or lodges of the merchants at Villa Nova and 
 Oporto. 
 
 JEROPIGA. 
 The term is applied most commonly to what is called a 
 vinho mudo ; that is, a must checked at the height of its 
 fermentation by the admixture of 32 per cent, of proof spirit. 
 It is still occasionally made of the pure sweet must, unfer- 
 mented, with the addition of brandy. Frequently the must 
 is evaporated to a syrupy consistence, mixed with more 
 natural must, and then mixed with brandy. These prepara- 
 tions constitute jeropiga, absolutely so called. Another kind 
 of jeropiga is the coloured, or tinta ; and this is always co- 
 loured with extraneous dyes, mostly elderberries. Forrester 
 described a variety of it, as compounded of treacle, unfer- 
 mented grape-juice, elderberry, and brandy. The true jero- 
 piga is added to wines requiring sweetness. The jeropiga 
 tinta is used for doctoring common port wines. Much of 
 it goes to the United States under the name of "pure juice," 
 and is there consumed in negus. 
 
 REMARKS ON VINIFICATION ON THE DOURO. 
 The great fault of all port wine preparation is deficiency of 
 care during the first vinification. However careful the mer- 
 chants may be in the lodges, they can never hope to make up 
 for primary faults. Although some makers pick the grapes, 
 so as to remove the bad and unripe ones, this precaution is 
 by no means general. The stalks are not removed before 
 crushing the berries. This ought to be done everywhere. 
 The simple machine described in the general part, or even 
 manipulation with a plain sieve, are quite effectual. The 
 stalks, if dry, do less mischief; but they soak again during 
 fermentation, and give out astringent matter. The precaution 
 of treading the grapes is mainly directed against the com- 
 munication of astringency by means of crushed stalks and 
 kernels. This danger being completely obviated by the use 
 of india-rubber rollers, there remains removal of the kernels 
 before fermentation. A complete reform of port wine making 
 
678 ON THE ADDITION OF BRANDY [chap. 
 
 might be undertaken to the following extent and effect : — The 
 berries having been squeezed through the india-rubber rollers, 
 are to be gently pressed, and deprived of all flowing juice. 
 The husks are next to be picked (by children's and women's 
 hands) free from all fleshy particles and kernels, and imme- 
 diately packed in brandy-syrup in earthen or wooden vessels, 
 or barrels. The juice should, meanwhile, stand at rest in 
 high vats, so that the impurities can deposit and the froth 
 can rise. The vats should be so arranged that the froth can 
 be skimmed off, either by tilting or otherwise, and that the 
 clear must can be drawn off the deposit. To the clear juice 
 thus purified from all matters which can readily engender 
 putrid fermentation, and spoil the wine for many years, the 
 husks, together with the brandy and sugar in which they are 
 preserved, should now be added. After the whole has been 
 well mixed, a sample of the juice should be analysed by an 
 experienced person, as to acidity and amount of sugar. The 
 acidity should not be more than 7 in 1,000 of must. The 
 sugar should not be less than 20 parts in 100 of must. Any 
 excess of acid or deficiency of sugar should be remedied by 
 the proceeding described in the general part. No plaster 
 or lime should under any circumstances be added to grapes, 
 must, or wine, as it is sure to cause a great loss to the pro- 
 prietor, if employed in sufficient quantity to effect anything. 
 
 ON THE ADDITION OF BRANDY TO PORT WINE. 
 
 No port wine comes to England that contains less of adven- 
 titious brandy than half an almude, or 16 quart bottles, or 
 nearly three gallons to the pipe. But the heavy-brandied so- 
 called rich wines contain from 15 to 17 gallons of adventitious 
 brandy in each pipe of 11 5 gallons. 
 
 The principal reason for the addition of brandy to port wine 
 is this, that it is the quickest and most certain means to 
 make the wine marketable and saleable to the consumer. The 
 wine is not made drinkable any earlier than it would have 
 been without the addition of brandy ; on the contrary, it 
 would have matured quicker in its natural state. But the 
 brandy brings it into a quiescent condition ; it is not liable to 
 
XXI.] TO PORT WINE. 679 
 
 any subsequent little fermentations ; it may be exported to 
 climates hot and cold ; in other words, with 40 per cent, of 
 proof spirit in it, port wine will keep. But it tastes of spirit 
 of wine, and must, therefore, be kept six or eight years in 
 bottle before it loses the taste of spirit of wine or brandy, and 
 regains the roundness of wine. 
 
 If no brandy were added to port wine, the following occur- 
 rences would take place with wine of good years : — It would 
 ferment slightly every spring and summer, and become turbid. 
 If not properly attended to during or after this fermentation, 
 it would lose flavour and quality, also colour ; if properly 
 attended to, it would much improve. It could not be bottled 
 before five or six years after the vintage, as, if the after- 
 fermentation occurred in the bottles, it would be much dete- 
 riorated. It could not be shipped in casks before five or six 
 years, because, if fermentation occurred during the voyage, 
 it would be ruined. The cask might burst or leak ; a void 
 would form in it ; air would enter; the disturbed lees would 
 form vinegar-fungi, and acetous fermentation would begin 
 or accomplish the ruin of the wine. All these occur- 
 rences would be matters of course and natural necessity. 
 With the wines of bad years the occurrences would be similar, 
 but more certain in result, and other accidents would be super- 
 added. Thus the wine would become viscid, or bitter, or shed 
 its colouring matter to a great extent. More liable to spoil 
 simply, it would be less liable to mere fermentation. None 
 of these accidents could occur to wine made upon our own 
 plan, without brandy. 
 
 If the Oporto wine-producer or merchant added no brandy 
 to his wine, he would be obliged to keep it for five, six, even 
 seven years, before he could safely ship it. But the addition 
 of brandy enables him to ship the wine three or four months 
 after the vintage, if so inclined, or during any period succeed- 
 ing that time. Thus the producer and merchant shift the 
 onus of maturing the wine upon the consumer. This is no 
 hardship to the provident consumer, or to him who is rich 
 enough to lay in stocks ten years before they are required ; 
 but to the mass of the population, who are not thus fortu- 
 
68o ON THE ADDITION OF BRANDY [chap. 
 
 nately situated, this circumstance is a hardship. They never 
 get good port wine to drink : for the capitalists, who lay in 
 large stocks of bottled port, work mostly for established 
 custom ; and the uncertainties of the trade, the rigidity of 
 circumstances produced by the former mismanagement of the 
 customs' duties, have prevented them from speculating, and 
 require them to take enormous profits to cover possible 
 losses. As these houses did not retail, and as there were 
 almost no retailers known in whom the public could have 
 had confidence, the middle-class of moderate but regular 
 means abandoned wine as a means of agreeable domestic 
 living, and reserved the port they could obtain for occasions 
 of social intercourse. Much of the brandy used with port 
 wine is distilled from common wines of Portugal produced out 
 of the Douro district, of which nine pipes give one pipe of 
 brandy ; but many thousands, up to 1 2,000 pipes, are annu- 
 ally carried to Portugal from Great Britain to be used in the 
 manufacture of port wine and jeropiga. If the manufac- 
 turers of port wine did not use brandy, they would be 
 obliged to mature their wines in deep cold cellars, of which 
 they have not any at present sufficiently capacious to hold 
 even a small proportion of their stock. The natural port 
 could not with advantage be matured in the present struc- 
 tures called lodges. Of course, if the merchants had to keep 
 all their wines until ripe without brandy, their capital would 
 be engaged much longer, and their operations would, conse- 
 quently, be much contracted. The consumer would not pay 
 more than he pays now ; on the contrary, he would pay rather 
 less, for obvious reasons. It is therefore clear that, as long 
 as the makers and merchants can sell their port wine as 
 at present, they will continue to make it as hitherto. But 
 should a new method be found by which port wine can be 
 matured in less time than with the addition of brandy, there 
 can be no doubt that such method will be used by many, 
 and the public will be then able to obtain the natural wine at 
 more moderate cost. In corroboration of this we may state 
 that one of us has lately examined several varieties of red 
 Portuguese wine sold in London, one of which, an Alto 
 
XXI.] TO PORT WINE. 68i 
 
 Douro vintage 1869, yielded the following results to chemical 
 analysis : — Specific gravity of wine = ggo'd ; specific gravity 
 of dealcohohzed wine = 10127; specific gravity of distillate 
 directly, 977-8, equal to 14-91 per cent, of alcohol by weight 
 in volume of wine. Distillate calculated = 977-9, equal 
 to 14-83 per cent, of alcohol. Free acid in 20 c. c. of wine 
 = 13-5 c. c. A normal soda; fixed acid = 10 c. c. Subjected 
 to spectrum analysis, it exhibited the unique feature of a 
 specific absorption colour spectrum, of which the following 
 is a description. A layer of from six to seven millimetres 
 in thickness allows red to pass to about forty-six of the 
 scale adopted by one of us.^ Then an absorption band is 
 perceived overlying the region of the D line, and beyond 
 that a feeble light in green. Blue and violet are entirely 
 extinguished. On dilution with alcohol (water has to be 
 avoided, as it produces a precipitate in the wine), the 
 absorption band measures from 59 to 88 of the scale 
 quoted, and has intensity 4. The following diagram illus- 
 trates these appearances. The taste of this wine was very 
 
 Fig. 84. — Diagram of spectrum of Alto Douro wine. 
 
 fine, full, pure, and extremely characteristic. It was fine, 
 because it was evidently made from the finest and ripest 
 Alto Douro grapes, the Verdeilho and Bastardo ; it was full, 
 owing to its great vinosity and high amount of natural alcohol, 
 yet free from adventitious syrup or jeropiga ; it was pure, 
 because free from all those faults which depreciate so many 
 southern wines, such as the propionic and fousel flavour, or 
 the burning taste of distilled spirit. It was extremely 
 characteristic in this, that, besides all these great qualities, 
 
 ' Thudichum, " Researches intended to promote an improved Chemical Identi- 
 fication of Diseases :" Eleventh Report of the Medical Officer of the Privy Council 
 for 1867. 
 
682 ON THE ADDITION OF BRANDY [chap. 
 
 it possessed the very essence of port wine flavour, without 
 the saccharine and spirit commonly found in port wine, and 
 had a natural smooth astringency, such as pleases the palate 
 and imparts keeping qualities. This wine was indeed very 
 unlike the artificial sweet and burning products commonly 
 called port wine, and constituted, as nearly as can be, a 
 natural wine. It was certainly thoroughly fermented, and 
 contained only that minimum of grape-sugar present in all 
 young wines, which is only found by chemical and optical 
 analysis, but escapes the taste. It was ..perfectly dry, and 
 thereby differed from current port wines which contain from 
 2 to 6 per cent, of sugar. Its alcoholicity was certainly 
 below the maximum which a natural wine is capable of 
 attaining, being I4'83, while the limit is i6 per cent. But 
 from investigations which we have instituted it follows that 
 the alcoholicity of port wine, which we have reason to believe 
 to be perfectly natural, has 9 per cent, as the lowest, and 
 1 3 '8 per cent, as the highest limit. Consequently, it is pro- 
 bable that from i| to 2 per cent, of alcohol had been added 
 to this Alto Douro wine, perhaps as is commonly done with 
 Burgundies, during the process of vatting. The alcoholicity 
 of this Alto Douro is certainly the lowest which we have 
 ever met with in any port wine sold in this country. Only 
 in one instance did we find as little as 15 per cent, alcohol 
 in a sweet high-priced old port. All our other numerous 
 analyses gave from 16-5 to 19-2 per cent, alcohol in sweet 
 ports, or from 36-6 to 425° of proof spirit. Consequently, 
 besides all its other good qualities, the Alto Douro here 
 described had this distinction, that it contained the lowest 
 amount of alcohol amongst all the genuine port wines sold 
 in this country. It possessed high dietetic and hygienic 
 qualities, and refreshed like Burgundy or M6doc wine, 
 while having more body than either of these, and fully 
 bore out all that the late Baron Forrester stated in praise 
 of natural Douro wines. When compared to Burgundies or 
 Mddocs of the same price, it gained an easy victory. We 
 are glad to find that such port wine has now become a 
 staple article of a distinguished commercial enterprise. 
 
XXI.] TO PORT WINE. 683 
 
 Mr. Consul Crawfurd asserts that the wines of the Douro, 
 when made without brandy, have not any of the softness 
 or flavour of port wine, but are intermediate in. character 
 between claret and burgundy, without possessing either the 
 deUcate bouquet of the one, or the flavour and roundness 
 of the . other. Against this very positive but nevertheless 
 erroneous assertion, it must be remarked that natural Douro 
 wine, from a good vineyard, made in a good year, can have 
 no such similarity to either claret or burgundy as would ever 
 make it stand intermediate between them. The varieties of 
 vines prevent the occurrence of any such similarity. Natural 
 port wine tastes peculiar ; and if there is anything nearer to 
 us than itself, that is like it, it is the best Montpellier, kept 
 five years, three in bottle. That most people in England would 
 not recognize natural port of the best quality we readily 
 beheve : but then the people are learning more and more to 
 appreciate the fact that there are many wines of many tastes ; 
 and as the sale of natural port, properly preservable, has be- 
 come feasible, its success will also be certain. We shall take 
 care that it does not fail from want of information about it. 
 
 Mr. Crawfurd imagines that the wines of the M^doc bear 
 exportation, because there is brandy added to them. He 
 quotes in support the treatise of Le Boeuf. We know it for 
 certain that a little brandy is added to common, very common, 
 Bordeaux wines. We know also that the better M^doc wines 
 are mixed with some Hermitage to give them a little more 
 alcohoUc strength. We know as certainly that of the thousands 
 of barriques of good and best clarets, of good years, not one 
 receives a particle of brandy ; but even if it did, its alcoholic 
 strength would be nothing Hke that of Oporto wines. We 
 require no treatises and no assertions : we base ourselves upon 
 analysis. The hundreds, nay thousands, of specimens of 
 clarets that have been analysed by other chemists, as well as 
 ourselves, never contained more than from 9 to 1 2 per cent, of 
 alcohol, or from 18 to 20, at the utmost 24 per cent, of proof 
 spirit. On the other hand, no port we ever examined had 
 less than 36 per cent, of proof spirit, and the average strength 
 is 39 to 40 per cent. 
 
684 THE ELDER-TREE ON THE DOURO. [chap. 
 
 Mr. Crawfurd states that there were in January 1867 
 upwards of 100,000 pipes of wine in stock in Oporto, of which 
 the average strength, according to some examinations insti- 
 tuted by an inquirer deputed by the Portuguese Government, 
 was 40 per cent, of proof spirit. Mr. Crawfurd admits, on the 
 other hand, that a few richer wines might contain 41, 42, and 
 even 43 per cent. To all these wines, however, i per cent, 
 of proof spirit is added on shipment. We then get what our 
 analyses exhibit. 
 
 THE ELDER-TREE ON THE DOURO. 
 
 The use of the elderberry is mentioned by Croft as having 
 been commonly resorted to so long ago as 1727. 
 
 During the years from 1754 to 1756, there was great depres- 
 sion in the port wine trade at Oporto, and to revive the trade 
 a company with a monopoly was established under the Marquis 
 of Pombal. One of the pretexts for the establishment of this 
 injurious institution was that the export of port wine had 
 diminished in consequence of adulterations, and that one of 
 the duties of the new company should be to preserve the pure 
 character of port wines. A law was then made which sub- 
 jected any man to transportation for life, in case he should be 
 convicted of making use of elderberries or of practising adul- 
 terations or admixtures to wines of any kind. The possession 
 by the farmer of any elder-tree on any part of his land was 
 made a felony, for which his goods were to be confiscated, and 
 he was to be transported for life. This dreadful law was made 
 valid for the whole of the wine district, and a circle extending 
 five leagues beyond the boundary-line. It remained valid up 
 to 1833 ; that is, for seventy-seven years, and fell with the old 
 company. But ever since 1820 adulteration had begun to be 
 openly practised, and when all restrictions were removed the 
 elder-tree became an object of general cultivation, and has 
 remained so ever since. When the new company was estab- 
 lished in 1843, it issued an exhortation to the farmers not 
 to make use of elderberries, but no penal law was enacted 
 against their use. 
 
 Consul Crawfurd now reports that the local demand having 
 
XXI.] THE ELDER-TREE ON THE DOURO. 685 
 
 ceased, the elder trees are being destroyed, and that he had 
 himself seen a row of them cut down, almost the only ones he 
 observed in the wine district. But curiously enough a demand 
 for elderberries has sprung up from abroad, principally from 
 Spain, and the dried elderberry is largely exported thither 
 and to ports of France, as shown by a statistical table pub- 
 lished by the Customs' authorities of Oporto. 
 
 Exportation of dried elderberries {bdgd) in 1 866 : — 
 
 Brazil . . . . .18,162 kilos. 
 
 Spain • • . 145.335 „ 
 
 France . . ig,ooo „ 
 
 England 1,020 „ 
 
 1,700 „ 
 
 New York 
 
 Total . . 185,217 
 
 Thus the reader may well ask after the district of the 
 growth of these 350,000 lbs. of dried elderberries, if almost 
 the only ones observed by Consul Crawfurd in the wine dis- 
 trict were cut down before his eyes ! 
 
 The elderberries give a taste and smell to the wine which 
 is quite unmistakeable, and a dark purple colour, which is very 
 different from the lighter pink or peculiar colour of true port 
 wine. It is stated that only about i per cent, of the port 
 wine now made is stained with elderberry, and that wine of 
 very inferior quality. Now even i per cent, would give a 
 thousand pipes of stained wine. But can we believe this 
 limitation 1 We may inquire by the guide of spectrum ana- 
 lysis. While, as we have seen above, genuine port wine gives 
 a spectrum showing a broad absorption band in yellow, and 
 a continued absorption of the blue and violet, the juice of 
 elderberries gives a spectrum showing a narrow absorption 
 band in red, and two absorption bands in blue, thus : — 
 
 Fig. 83. -Diagram of spectrum of elderberry juice. 
 
686 VALUE AND EXTENSION [chap. 
 
 Every port wine or other wine yielding this spectrum, has 
 been dyed with elderberry. The consumer, merchant, and 
 shipper have therefore in the spectroscope the ready means of 
 diagnosing the admixture of elderberry juice. 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTES OF THE PORT WINE TRADE. 
 
 The first pipe of port is reported to have been shipped in 
 the year 1678. During the ten years following this event 
 600 pipes were shipped each year. In seventy years the annual 
 exportation rose to 17,000 pipes. In 1757, the monopoly of 
 the wine company was established, and continued to the year 
 1833, when it was abolished. During these seventy-seven years, 
 the annual exportation amounted to 33,300 pipes. After the 
 company was abolished, the annual exports fell off by 2,000 
 pipes, and this continuing during nine years, a new company 
 was established in 1843. The exports thereupon rose again 
 to 33,333 pipes per annum, and increased little until this 
 company too was abolished in 1867. 
 
 Of this number of pipes exported, about 28,000 came to 
 Great Britain annually, during the free times from 1838 to 
 1 843 ; but after the revival of the monopolized company 
 only about 21,000 pipes were allowed to come to England 
 annually, although the production of port wine during the 
 years 1846, 1847, 1848, had risen to 107,000 pipes a year. 
 
 VALUE OF PORT WINE. 
 A pipe of port wine in the hands of the farmer in its natural 
 state (about 1852) varied from ;^5 to £17. To bring this 
 wine to the river would add ;^3 in expenses. To ship it to 
 Oporto would add another ;£'3. The wine would then have 
 to be kept for at least two years. There are therefore loss : 
 by leakage and evaporation; interest of money two years; 
 expenses of storing; expenses of business and labour, 
 together estimated at 20 per cent, upon the original outlay : 
 so that the cost of the pipe of such (unbrandied) port would 
 be at least ;^27. This does not include any profits, which 
 the merchant expects in exchange for the employment of his 
 talent and capital. 
 
XXI.J 
 
 OF PRODUCTION OF PORT WINE. 
 
 687 
 
 The cost of the lowest port ready for shipping (about 1852) 
 was from £\\ to £\2. 
 
 WHITE PORT. 
 White port is now no longer exported from Portugal. It is, 
 or was, a delicious fine-flavoured and very spirituous wine, but 
 had less bouquet than the white wines of other countries. 
 
 POSSIBLE EXTENSION OF PRODUCTION OF PORT WINES. 
 Much fresh land could easily be brought under cultivation ; 
 and certainly much that is already cultivated could be 
 improved into producing more wine, under the influence of a 
 regular and increasing demand. It has been stated that the 
 proportion of good, of abundant, and of average vintages is, 
 when compared to bad and deficient ones, larger in the Douro 
 district than in other producing countries. The following 
 table furnishes the data concerning the Douro, which may 
 serve as one side of the comparison. It was collected by 
 Mr. Crawfurd, partly as the result of conversation with the 
 wine-shippers of Oporto, partly from the books of a gentleman 
 who is a wine-grower himself, and also a continual purchaser 
 and shipper of the wines of other farmers. 
 
 Year and quality of the Wine made in the Douro district. 
 
 1840 — very fine. 
 
 1841 — very bad. 
 
 1842— fine. 
 
 1 843 — middling. 
 
 1844 — fine. ' 
 
 1845 — inferior. 
 
 1846 — good. 
 
 1847 — very fine ; rich. 
 
 1848 — good ; not so rich. 
 
 1849 — middling. 
 
 1850 — fine ; very good. 
 
 1851 — very fine. 
 
 1852 — good. 
 
 1853— very good. 
 
 1854 — fine. 
 
 185s— bad. 
 
 1856 — very bad. 
 1857 — bad. 
 
 1858 — very good; rich. 
 1859 — middling ; watery. 
 i860 — very good ; dry. 
 1861 — fine ; rich. 
 1 862 — good ; dry. 
 i863^very fine and rich. 
 1864 — -middling sweet and 
 
 rather poor. 
 1865— good, not liked at first, 
 
 but turned out well ; 
 
 rich. 
 1866 — cold and rainy season ; 
 
 much wine obtained ; 
 
 sound, but common. 
 
 Out of 25 vintages 16 are good, four are of average quality, 
 and five only are bad. 
 
688 
 
 VILLAGES OF ALTO DOURO. 
 
 [CHAP. 
 
 ALPHABETICAL LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL PLACES IN 
 THE WINE DISTRICTS OF THE ALTO DOURO. 
 
 Abassas. 
 
 Folhadella. 
 
 Ribalonga. 
 
 Adorigo. 
 Alijo. 
 
 Fontellas. 
 Fontello. 
 
 Roriz. 
 Sabroza. 
 
 Alvajoens do Corgo. 
 Alva^oens do Tanha. 
 Barcos. 
 
 Fontes. 
 
 Fomellos. 
 
 Galafiira. 
 
 Samfins. 
 
 Samodaens. 
 
 Sande. 
 
 Barqueiros. 
 Barro. 
 
 Godim. 
 Goivaens. 
 
 Sanhoanne. 
 S. Adriao. 
 
 Bertgllo. 
 
 Goivinhas. 
 
 S. Christovao. 
 
 Cambres. 
 
 Guiaens. 
 
 S. Joao da Pesqueira. 
 
 Canellas. 
 Castanheiro. 
 
 Larnego. 
 Loureiro. 
 
 Sta. Martha. 
 
 S. Martinho d'Anta. 
 
 Castedo. 
 
 Mofomedes. 
 
 S. Miguel. 
 
 Cazaes. 
 
 Mogalhaa. 
 
 Serra do Marao. 
 
 Cazal de Loivos. 
 
 Medroens. 
 
 Soutello. 
 
 Celeiros. 
 
 Mezaofrio. 
 
 Taboa^o. 
 
 Chancelleiros. 
 
 Moura Morta. 
 
 Travasos. 
 
 Cheires. 
 Cidadeltre. 
 
 Nagozello. 
 Oliveira. 
 
 Tua. 
 
 Val de Mendiz. 
 
 Comieira. 
 
 Parada do Bispo. 
 
 Valdigem. 
 
 Constantin. 
 
 Paradella. 
 
 Valen^a. 
 
 Cottas. 
 
 Penajoia. 
 
 Vezuvio. 
 
 Covas. 
 
 Persequeda. 
 
 Villa de Cottas. 
 
 Covelinhas. 
 
 Pezinho. 
 
 Villa de Ma9ada. 
 
 DongUo. 
 
 Pezo da Regoa. 
 
 Villa de S. Romao. 
 
 Ermida. 
 
 Pinhao. 
 
 Villa Juzaa. 
 
 Ervedoza. 
 
 Poiares. 
 
 Villa Maior. 
 
 Estrada. 
 
 Povoafao. 
 
 Villa Marim. 
 
 Favaios. 
 
 Provezende. 
 
 Villa Real. 
 
 Folgoza. 
 
 Quinta da Roiicao. 
 
 Villa Secca d' Armamai- 
 
 OTHER WINES OF PORTUGAL. 
 
 "P''y- \ Both white. 
 Sweet. > 
 
 Lisbon.- 
 
 Sweet. 
 
 Palinella. \ Wines grown in the neighbourhood of Lisbon, 
 
 Inglezhinos. } not exported under their own names. 
 
 The principal repositories are at Sacavem, a Httle town, 
 eleven miles up the Tagus. 
 
 Bucellas. — This is said to have originally been made from 
 transplanted Rhenish vines (variety unknown), and to have 
 had the flavour and properties of Rhenish wine. 
 
XXI.] OTHER WINES OF PORTUGAL. 689 
 
 Carcavellos. — White wine (syn. Calcavella). 
 A rinto. — White. 
 Termo. — White. 
 Lavradio, 
 Lamego, 
 
 Torres Vedras, \ Red wines. 
 Mongaon, 
 Colares, 
 
 Setuval. — Two varieties : one sweet Muscat, the other dry ; 
 both white. 
 
 A low-priced, natural, dry, red wine, termed consume, mean- 
 ing a wine for ordinary use, grown in the Douro valley, 
 but not in the Alto Douro or Corgo district, is now offered 
 for sale in London. Such wine has never yet been imported 
 into this country because, as was alleged, it could not bear 
 the transport. The consumo alluded to, however, is in a 
 perfectly sound condition, and not likely to be affected by 
 any transport on land or sea — an effect, no doubt, due to the 
 peculiarly skilful mode of treatment to which it has been 
 subjected. It yielded to chemical analysis the following 
 results: — Specific gravity of wine = 992^4; ditto of de- 
 alcoholized wine = 10095. Distillate directly 982'5 = irzj 
 per cent, alcohol; distillate calculated 982-9= iO'9i percent, 
 alcohol. Fixed acid in 20 c. c. = 130 c. c. -j-V normal soda; total 
 free acid in ditto = 15 '2 c. c. ditto. On spectrum analysis the 
 wine showed the same phenomena as the Alto Douro ; but 
 they were much less intense. The ammoniacal solution of the 
 wine differed from that of the Alto Douro above described 
 by passing more red and less green, and showing the absorp- 
 tion band less distinct. In its alcoholicity this wine stands 
 above the light Bordeaux wines, which have from 8 to 9 per 
 cent, pf alcohol ; above the wines of the valley of the Rh6ne, 
 which, hke Beaujolais and Hermitage, have from ^-^ to ' 
 ID'S per cent; and keeps close to, but slightly above, the full 
 qualities of Burgundy, which show from 9-3 to ii"39 per cent. 
 of alcohol. The consumo is of the vintage of 1869, yet 
 ready for drinking, and is quite peculiar and of port-wine 
 flavour. It is sold to the public at a price which is fully one- 
 
 y V 
 
690 OTHER WINES OF PORTUGAL. [chap. xxr. 
 
 third less than the ordinary prices of similar Gironde, C6te 
 d'Or, or Rh6ne wines. Its dietetic qualities are of a high 
 order. Its higher alcoholicity adapts it well to the wants of 
 our moist chmate. It is perfectly pure, quite dry, and as 
 free from adventitious alcohol as the fullest Burgundies. It 
 is therefore good to drink with meals, and acts as a powerful 
 tonic. Let us hope that the Peninsula may be able to send 
 us a great deal of such agreeable beverage ! 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 THE WINES OF THE ATLANTIC ISLANDS. 
 
 First Group: Madeira and the small Desertas : Historical note.— Soil. 
 — Varieties of vines. — Mode of cultivation. — Vintage and vinification. — Matura- 
 tion of the vine ; vino de roda. — Description of the wines. — Quantity of wine 
 produced.— Destruction of vines by the oidium. Second Group : the 
 Canaries, comprising Teneriffa, Canaria, Lanzerote, Fuerteventura, Palma, 
 Gomera, and Ferro. — Vines. — Situation. — Wines, Malvasia and Canary-sect, 
 vino seco, or seccato. — Production. — Oidium. Third Group : The Azores 
 comprising Pico, Terceira, San Miguel, Fayal, San Jorge, and Graciosa. 
 
 FIRST GROUP. — MADEIRA AND THE SMALL DESERTAS. 
 
 Historical Note. — Madeira was discovered by the Portu- 
 guese under Prince Henry in the year 1418. They destroyed 
 the forest round the southern bay, now called " of Funchal," 
 and in 142 1 planted vines, alleged to have been brought from 
 Cyprus and Candia. The burning of the forest on the southern 
 side of the island occupied the settlers about seven years, and 
 their plantations had an immediate and great succes.s. 
 
 Soil. — Madeira consists of a basis of tertiary chalk, which 
 is overlaid by the eruptive products of a now dead volcano, 
 the Pic Ruivo, 6,000 feet high. These various products are 
 basalt, trachyte, tufa, and different later lavas ; they form 
 steep slopes, with many ravines, and here and there consi- 
 derable landslips make the territory very intricate for access 
 and cultivation. The volcanic rock disintegrates under the 
 influence of rain and sun, and becomes a soft stone {pedra 
 molld), which is now easily transformed into a gritty soil, in 
 which all kinds of plants grow readily. This soil has to 
 
 y y 2 
 
692 VINTAGE AND VINIFICATJON. [CHAP. 
 
 be retained everywhere by terraced walls, as otherwise the 
 rain-water would carry it quickly down the valleys into 
 the sea. 
 
 Varieties of Vines. — The Malvasia, said to come from 
 Candia, is supposed to yield the best Madeira wine so-called. 
 The Vidogna is perhaps cultivated on a larger area than 
 the Malvasia : it is similar in appearance to the Chasselas, 
 and yields dry Madeira. Subsidiary vines are the Bagoual, 
 the Sercial or Escanagao, the Muscatel and Alicante. These 
 bear white grapes, but the following produce all black 
 grapes — the Batardo, the Tinta, or Negramol, and the Ferral. 
 In the last century, a vine with black grapes was much 
 cultivated, which was called the Pergola. With the excep- 
 tion of the Tinta, most black grapes are used for making 
 white wine. 
 
 Mode of Cultivation. — The vines are fastened to espaliers of 
 wood and reeds, which vary in height between 3 and 6 feet. 
 Sometimes the canes are trained in arches, so that the 
 grapes ripen in the shade of covered walks. On the northern 
 part of the islands the vines are trained upon pollards, 
 and the grapes in consequence are watery and without 
 quality. During the rainy season, from October to March, 
 the vines are leafless, and the vineyards look then bare and 
 desolate. In the middle of March the vines begin to sprout, 
 and early in April they are quite green ; they blossom in 
 May and June, and perfume all parts of the island. At 
 this time cold nights sometimes damage the blossoms, and 
 cause a deficiency in the future crops. But the heat of 
 summer in any case quickly develops and ripens the grapes, 
 so that the harvest can begin at the end of July. 
 
 Vititage and Vinification.~ThQ grapes are trodden, and the 
 mash is pressed in crude lever or tree presses. The must 
 is fermented in barrels. When sold to the wine-merchant, 
 it is transported to their cellars in small barrels or bags of 
 goat-skins slung to the backs of mules. From this sale of the 
 wine in mosto has to be distinguished the later sale of the 
 made wine in a clear state, which is called in linipo. The 
 must is mostly mixed with brandy at once, stated to be from 
 
XXH.] DESCRIPTION OF THE WINES. 693 
 
 half a gallon to a gallon to the Portuguese pipe. After the 
 first fermentation is over, the wine is racked from the gross 
 lees, and again mixed with a similar quantity of brandy. 
 After about three weeks, it is racked a second time, fined, 
 and a gallon of brandy is again added. When the wine has 
 become bright, it is racked for the last time, and placed in 
 large barrels for ripening. This process requires about six 
 years. Before exportation each pipe receives another gallon 
 of spirit 
 
 Maturation of the Wine. — The maturation of the wine can 
 be effected by time alone, but it succeeds quicker and better 
 by the aid of heat and motion. To that end the wine is 
 placed in ships as merchandise, and sent on a shorter or 
 longer voyage to the West or East Indies, to Java or China. 
 After its return it has become travelled wine, or "vino de 
 roda." It is probable that the heat and motion to which the 
 wine is subjected effect a quicker oxydation of the extractive 
 and astringent principles, and an earlier formation of the 
 ethers to which the wine owes its flavour. The wines which 
 are not shipped are placed into magazines, which can be 
 heated, and left there for some weeks or months. This 
 process also effects a quicker oxydation, and in addition 
 destroys any fungi which are capable of making the wine 
 scuddy, or of otherwise changing it unfavourably. For 
 Madeira, like all other southern wines, is subject to many 
 accidents, such as scud, ropiness, bitterness, acetification ; and 
 much wine, which is sent out in an unfit state, returns more 
 or less spoiled. Against these mishaps brandying has hitherto 
 been the only reniedy, but the wine-makers have at least had 
 the good taste of confining the addition of spirit to the 
 minimum compatible with safety. 
 
 Description of the Wines. — The Madeira wine, ordinarily so 
 called, is a more or less amber-coloured liquid, of a peculiar 
 agreeable flavour. In it lives the genius of the Malvasia 
 and Vidogna grapes. The Sercial also gives it particular 
 qualities, namely, astringency, and with this, lasting qualities ; 
 but the roughness produced thereby somewhat retards its 
 maturation. Most Madeira is dry ; that is to say. free from 
 
694 QUANTITY OF WINE PRODUCED. [chap. 
 
 sugar, and is therefore capable of being preserved with less 
 brandy than sweet wines. The best qualities improve during 
 ten years in barrel, and then during ten years in bottle, and 
 after that become less perfect. The red varieties of wine 
 made at Madeira are neither distinguished as to quality, nor 
 large in quantity. They resemble the lighter wines of Por- 
 tugal, the Consumos, in character. 
 
 Classification of Growths. — The best vineyards on the south 
 side belong to the Royal Family of Portugal, and their 
 products do not get into trade. The best district yielding 
 saleable wines is the Pago de Pereira. Vineyards of the 
 second class are Calheta, Arco da Calheta, Porto da Sol, 
 Ribeira Brava, Cama de Lobos, Estreto, Santo Martinho, 
 and Santo Antonio. The wines on the northern side of the 
 island are mainly used for distilling brandy. The most 
 notable vineyards in this part are those of Porto da Cruz, 
 Santo Jorge, Ponta del Gada, Portomoniz, Santo Vincente, 
 and Seycal da Norte. 
 
 Quantity of Wine produced. — Before 1852 Madeira produced 
 annually about 20,000 pipes of wine, and in abundant years 
 sometimes 30,000; but in the spring of 1852, shortly after 
 blossom time, the oldium invaded the vineyards, and in a 
 few weeks destroyed the entire harvest. With the exception 
 of 1856, in which year about 200 pipes of wine were made 
 in the north of the island at Ponta del Gada, and Arco de 
 Santo Jorge, where the vine is carefully trained on low 
 espaliers near the soil and not reared on pollards, no wine 
 was made in the island during five years ending 1857. This 
 engendered an annual loss to the proprietors and cultivators 
 of upwards of ;^23o,ooo sterling. The proprietors tore out 
 the vines, and planted sugar-cane and yellow squash ; the 
 espaliers once loaded with grapes now became yellow with 
 pumpkins. Since i860 the vine is again more cultivated at 
 Madeira; but the exportation of wine has not yet, in 1871, 
 risen to one-tenth of what it was in 1850. 
 
 The territorial law of Madeira is one of great complication, 
 which makes the sale and purchase of land almost impossible. 
 In consequence, capital has few chances of employment, and 
 
XXII.] TfJE CANARIES. 695 
 
 it is possible, while much to be regretted, that Madeira may 
 never recover its viticultural value, but sink to the low position 
 of the Turkish islands of the Mediterranean. 
 
 SECOND GROUP. — THE CANARIES. 
 
 These islands comprise Teneriffa, Canaria, Lanzerote, Fuerte- 
 ventura, Palma, Gomera, and Ferro. All have volcanic soil, 
 and produce wine from the Malvasia and Vidogna grapes. 
 The best situations at Teneriffe are near the capital, Laguna, 
 and further at Orotava, Tacaronte, Matanza, Val d'Icod, 
 Dante, Silos, Guimar, Tagamana, and Teguina. The Vidogna 
 wines are dry, and similar though inferior to Madeira ; in 
 particular, they have less perfume, though they are brandied 
 to the same extent as the Madeira, — a proof that flavour is 
 not the result of the addition of spirit. The Malvasia is a 
 sweet liqueur-wine, similar to that of Madeira, and, like this, 
 tastes of pine-apple, a perfume probably derived from that 
 fruit. Canary-sect of former times was the sweet white wine 
 of these islands, " vino secco," or " seccato," so called because 
 it was made from grapes which had been dried or passulated 
 to a certain extent before vinification. 
 
 Next to the named vineyards of Teneriffe, the vineyard of 
 Herminga upon the island of Gomero, and that of Jolfo upon 
 Ferro, and the vineyard of Palma, have the greatest reputa- 
 tion. These islands formerly produced 25,000 pipes of wine ; 
 but this has been reduced to one-tenth by the ofdium. Before 
 1852, most Canary wine was sold as Madeira, which had the 
 greater reputation. In the present day it is transmuted into 
 " sherry " by being vatted with small quantities of the product 
 of the Palomino grape. 
 
 THIRD GROUP. — THE AZORES. 
 
 These islands, situated to the north-west of Madeira, for- 
 merly produced much wine ; the island of Pico alone about 
 S,ooo pipes annually. The sweet Malvasia was called Vino 
 
696 THE AZORES. [chap, xxir, 
 
 passado ; the Vidogna, Vino seco. The islands of Terceira, 
 San Miguel, Fayal, San Jorge, and Graciosa, all yielded 
 valuable wines, which were exported from Angia and Fayal 
 to North America and Brazil. These also were almost 
 destroyed by the oldium. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 THE WINES OF ITALY, ROUMANIA, GREECE, AND THE 
 TURKISH ISLANDS. 
 
 Wines of Italy : Wines of Piedmoht, — Wines of Sardinia. — Wines of Tuscany. 
 — ^Wines of Lombardy and Venetia. — Wines of Central Italy. — Neapolitan 
 wines. — Wines of Sicily. Wines of Macedonia and Thessaly (Rou- 
 mania). Wines of Greece : General remarks. — Vines. — Vinification.— 
 South Thessaly. — Livadia. — Morea.— Islands of the Archipelago. — Santorin, 
 ancient Thera. — Mode of training the vine. — Varieties of vines. — Quantity of 
 vfine produced. — Qualities of the wines. — Ionian Islands. Wines of the 
 Turkish Islands ; Candia, ancient Crete. — Rhodes.^ — Cyprus. — Cipro vine. 
 — Classes of wines. — Wine of the Commandery. — Capacity of Cyprus wine- 
 measure. 
 
 WINES OF PIEDMONT. 
 
 In this part of Italy a great variety of wines is produced. 
 Those of Asti and Chaumont have acquired a reputation. 
 Alba and Montferrat also produce red and white wines. We 
 have obtained a number of wines from Turin, but found them 
 inferior and dear. The spumante, or effervescent wine, 
 mostly grew regular furs of fungi in the bottles. The red 
 were all in a state of fermentation, or frisky (Italian fresco), 
 and turbid. Some retained the peculiar biting taste after 
 complete clearance. A number of red wines which have 
 come under our observation were made from the Grignoli 
 grape, and named grignolinos. The better qualities had 
 great merit, and we think that if this vine were cultivated 
 with attention, and its product reared with scientific precision. 
 
698 WINES OF SARDINIA, TUSCANY, [CHAP. 
 
 a most valuable wine might be the result. The Grignoli 
 vine ^ is closely related to the Carmenet of the Gironde on 
 the one side, and to the Kadarka of Hungary on the other. 
 
 WINES OF SARDINIA. 
 So-called Malvasia wines are produced at Sorso, Posa, 
 Alghiere, and Naxo. The Malvasias of Caunonas, Monai, 
 and Garnaccia are exported. The wine of Giro is like the 
 tinto of Alicante. Other red wines are those of Bosa, 
 Sassari, and Ogliastra. 
 
 WINES OF TUSCANY. 
 
 In this duchy the best Italian wines are produced, partly 
 because the climate is most favourable, partly because the 
 former Government and many nobles paid great attention to 
 the improvement of the vineyards, and imported suitable 
 varieties of vines from other countries. Nevertheless, vinifi- 
 cation, although the best in Italy, leaves much to be desired. 
 
 Of vines, the aleatico, or red muscat, is most extensively 
 grown, at Monte Pulciano, between Sienna and Rome; at 
 Monte Catini, in the Val de Rievole, and at Ponte a Moriano. 
 The wine is purple in colour, sweet, and slightly astringent 
 in taste. A good red wine is made at Chianti, near Sienna, 
 from a peculiar grape. The wines of Artimino, a former 
 grand ducal estate, and of Carmignano, are also of good 
 quality. 
 
 At Arcetri, near Florence, was prepared the best Verdea, 
 or green wine, so called from its colour, and much esteemed 
 by Frederick the Great of Prussia. Another celebrated wine 
 is the Trebbiano, a gold-coloured syrup, produced from grapes 
 passulated on the vine by torsion of the stalk. The vine is 
 named Trebbino. 
 
 The nobles of Florence, like those of Vienna, sell their 
 wines by retail from their palace cellars, in fiascos, or flasks, 
 of the shape of the well-known oil flasks, containing about 
 
 1 The vines of Italy were described by Joseph Acerbi, in 1825. Those of 
 Sicily were first described by F. F. Cupani, in 1696. He distinguished forty- 
 eight varieties. Neither of these works has been accessible to us. 
 
XXIII.] LOMBARDY, AND VENETIA. 699 
 
 three quarts each. These bottles are not stoppered, but the 
 wine is covered with a small quantity of oil, which is either 
 flung out, or soaked out with tow previous to using the 
 wine. 
 
 WINES OF LOMBARDY AND VENETIA. 
 
 In Lombardy and Venetia the vines are grown on the 
 margins of the cultivated pieces of land, or in rows intersecting 
 them. Trees are planted for the purpose of supporting the 
 vines. Such trees are sometimes called " pollards " in English. 
 They are trained and cut to that particular shape which 
 will best serve the purpose. The variety of tree .which 
 is taken is mostly a kind of maple. Vine and tree are 
 planted together. The stem of the vine is of the same 
 length as that of the tree, and the branches of the tree, 
 stripped of the greatest part of their foliage, form the sup- 
 port of the head of the vine. At that height above the 
 ground very nice grapes grow, but even in the climate of Italy 
 they never attain that perfection which is necessary to produce 
 good wines. , The vine is cut as follows : — The branches 
 which have been growing all over the maple are collected, 
 twisted into a rope, and then tied together with a similar rope 
 produced from the next tree. In this way all the bearing 
 wood forms garlands reaching from tree to tree. As the ropes 
 of the year before have been cut off, there are, of course, left 
 on the vine a number of spurs which, now in spring, grow the 
 canes for the next year. This mode of cultivation has so 
 many advantages connected with the ordinary method of 
 agriculture in Venetia that we do not think it likely that 
 it ever will be changed. The trees give the little fire-wood 
 required for cooking; and the vine can be produced at a 
 low cost, owing to the circumstance that it occupied no 
 space on the ground. The garlands at the heads of the 
 , trees do not only look picturesque and give to the whole 
 country a kind of festive appearance, but they also afford 
 protection from the wind, and from the glowing sun, during 
 the hot part of the year, to crops, men, and animals. 
 Here also the system of small farms and payment of rent 
 
70O WINES OF LOMBARDY, ETC. [CHAP, 
 
 by natural produce, prevails. The rent consists mainly in 
 wine for the proprietors, in the cuttings of the mulberry- 
 trees, and in a quantity of grapes. The vintage is mostly 
 effected by the proprietor himself In this way all cal- 
 culations of wages, of rent, and so forth are avoided. Dur- 
 ing the last fifteen years, however, Venetia has suffered very 
 much from the oldium. We have seen the accounts of a 
 property, the marginal rows of which yielded during ten 
 years, from 1843 to 1852, ;£'2,ooo worth of wine; but during 
 the years from 1853 to 1862, the yield was only a little 
 more than ^200. 
 
 The cutting of the vines is here effected not in the same 
 careful manner as in France and Germany, but the immense 
 power of vegetation admits of a much cruder process. The 
 workmen cut the old branches with an old sword blade, or a 
 heavy sickle, and there is no more ceremony made with the 
 vine than if it were a shrub of the hedgerow. A field covered 
 with vines looks from the distance like a common forest. The 
 grapes are vintaged at a time when they have the greatest 
 volume. The mash is allowed to stand from six to eight 
 days. The hat is frequently submerged. The wine is then 
 drawn off, but the murk is not pressed, for the farmers of 
 these little properties have the right of making their piccolo 
 from the unpressed murk. The wine which one can get to 
 drink in the plain of Venetia is always very poor. It is 
 not dark red, owing to the imperfect ripening of the grapes 
 in the air. It has a very astringent taste, caused by the 
 long contact of the stalks with the must. It contains very 
 little sugar, little alcohol, much acid, and not any aromatic 
 properties. It is an exceedingly cheap drink to quench the 
 thirst in summer or winter. From the Venetian plain the 
 cultivation of the vine extends into many of the valleys of the 
 Alps which open into it, particularly that of Udine, the valley 
 of the Tagliamento, up to Tolmezzo, and the Piave. At the 
 valley of the Adige, however, the peculiarity ends. South 
 Tyrol commences, and' with it new and German methods of 
 cultivation. In many of these valleys viticulture might attain 
 the highest perfection if it were directed to quality, and if 
 
XXIII.] NEAPOLITAN WINES. 701 
 
 selected vines were grown in closed vineyards with that care 
 and attention which are bestowed upon this branch of pro- 
 duction on the Rhine and in France. Here wines might be 
 produced which would be unsurpassed by any other wines 
 in the world. Here there is an equable temperature, and 
 a sufficiency of those precipitations of moisture during nights 
 of calm radiation from the nearest hills. Here is rain 
 at the proper time, and plenty of the direct rays of the 
 sun come in the month of August, when the vine is most 
 in need of it. Indeed, here are all the conditions for 
 producing not only a sweet wine, such as is common in 
 climates which only have sun and heat, but for the production 
 of those flavoured wines which are the privilege of those parts 
 of the world where the so-called great wines are grown. But 
 the indolence which affects the mass of the^ Italian nation, 
 and is perhaps the product of the ease with which they are 
 enabled to carry on life, also affects viticulture here as 
 throughout Italy, and proves the truth of the sorrowful 
 words of Matteucci, " Este in Italia ni studio ni lavore." 
 
 WINES OF CENTRAL ITALY. 
 The former Papal States produce the wines of Orvieto, 
 and the muscats of Albano and Montefiascone. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN WINES. 
 
 Lachrymae Christi is produced from vines grown at the base 
 of Mount Vesuvius, and is reputed to be the strongest of the 
 wines grown in the Naples district. A sample of 1 860 vintage 
 was obtained from the grower in its natural state, and found 
 to contain 18-9 per cent, of proof spirit. 
 
 The province of Puglia or Terra d'Otranto produces the 
 wines of Gallipoli and Taranto. i860 Gallipoli, obtained by 
 the Board of Customs at Naples, had, as a precautionary mea- 
 sure — not from necessity, as it was alleged by the gentlemen 
 who furnished them — been mixed with 4 per cent, of spirit, 
 believed to be of the ordinary strength of Cognac. This 
 wine contained 26'$ per cent, of proof spirit. 
 
 Taranto, i860, containing 23-9 per cent, proof spirit, came, 
 
7Q2 
 
 WINES OF SICILY. [cHAP. 
 
 like the Gallipoli, from a gentleman at Naples, who had the 
 wine direct from the grower. 
 
 WINES OF SICILY. 
 
 Of Sicilian wines only one variety is exported in large 
 quantities, — namely, the white or light amber or brown wine, 
 which goes under the name of the exporting town of Marsala. 
 In the neighbourhood of Messina there is grown the Faro 
 wine, reputed to be the strongest wine of North-eastern 
 Sicily. Near Mount Etna is made the wine of Terre Forte, in 
 the vineyards of the Benedictine monks. The latter varieties, 
 if they occur in trade at all, do not do so under their own 
 names. 
 
 Marsala is situated near the western termination of the 
 northern coast of Sicily. Its vineyards extend along the 
 coast towards the east and west in a band of upwards of 
 twenty miles in length and twelve broad. The soil is a 
 mixture of chalk and clay, coloured yellow or reddish brown 
 by oxyde of iron ; .in other parts there is sand or gravel, 
 mixed with loam. 
 
 Of the varieties of vines cultivated at Marsala we have not 
 been able to obtain certain information. To conclude from 
 the nature of the wine, the varieties must be many, and all of 
 inferior quality. 
 
 All the wine shipped from Marsala to England is strongly 
 brandied. Much of it is sold as such, but large quantities 
 are transformed into imitation sherry. We give on pp. 
 293-298 the analyses of samples of wine from Marsala. 
 
 Red wines are also grown in the island, and owing to 
 their low price are exported to other parts of Italy and to 
 America. Faro wine, vintage i860, was obtained from the 
 grower by the London Board of Customs, and on analysis was 
 found to contain 227 per cent, proof spirit ; the assertion that 
 it had been in its natural state, and that no spirit of any 
 kind had been added to it, is therefore borne out. The wine 
 of Terre Forte, grown by the Benedictine monks of Mount 
 Etna, is reputed to be the strongest wine grown in the eastern 
 
XXIII.] WINES OF GREECE. 703 
 
 district of Sicily. The sample of wine of the vintage 1859, 
 which was obtained by and examined for the Board of 
 Customs, contained 29-9 per cent, proof spirit.^ 
 
 The total quantity of wine produced in Sicily is estimated 
 at 200,000 pipes, which seems a great exaggeration. Only 
 one-fifth part of the quantity produced is believed to be fit 
 for exportation. The Marsala pipe contains 93 gallons. 
 
 The consumption of marsala in England has but slightly 
 increased since the reduction of the duty; namely, by about 
 one-fifth of what it was at the time of the reduction. There 
 are less than 300,000 gallons consumed in England. 
 
 WINES OF MACEDONIA AND THESSALY (ROUMANIA). 
 
 They are middling wines, mostly of intolerable taste, on 
 account of the tar (or pitch) which is added to keep them ; 
 but on the Hagion Oros on Mount Athos, German monks have 
 introduced their improved methods of vinification. Commer- 
 cial wines are produced in Macedonia : at Chatista, Fiorina, 
 Kiprio, Castoria, in the district surrounding the Lake of 
 Ochrida, in the plain of Serres ; at Piliori, Crotova, and in the 
 valley of Resne ; in Thessaly ; at Larissa, Cachia, and Arta. 
 In the village of Galistas, on the slopes of the Bernos, much 
 simmered wine is made, of which Mahommedans partake. 
 Albania produces much wine of red and white colour, which 
 keeps without pitch. 
 
 WINES OF GREECE. 
 
 General Remarks. — The kingdom of Greece is a moun- 
 tainous country ; its -ranges are schistous, chalky and volcanic, 
 and offer many declivities, sloping towards the south, most 
 favourable to viticulture. It has a warm climate tempered 
 everywhere by the neighbourhood of the sea, and its sky is 
 always clear and beautiful. But its cultivation has for cen- 
 turies been much neglected ; the crops which were raised were 
 mostly sold to foreign countries, and thus the soil became 
 irremediably exhausted. The rain^ washed the soil down 
 
 } Reijort on Strength of Wine. Parliamentary Return, April 29, 1862, p. 26. 
 
704 WINES OF GREECE. [CHAP. 
 
 into the rivers and sea, and the land became denuded and 
 sterile. There was little labour, less live stock and manure ; 
 brigandage kept the population in terror and uncertainty. 
 In consequence of these deplorable conditions the production 
 of wine in Greece, which was considerable at the time of the 
 Venetian supremacy, has sunk to a relatively insignificant 
 amount. But the production of currants is still a highly im- 
 portant branch of Greek agriculture. 
 
 Vities. — The principal vine cultivated in Greece is the Vitis 
 Corinthiaca, also called Apyrena, the stoneless, and from its 
 product, Uva passa. It is mostly grown as a shrub without 
 support, with a strong stem from which spring short branches. 
 The one year's wood is brown, with dark brown points, flat at 
 the insertion of the eyes. The leaves are large, thick, leathery, 
 and, in many details of their lobes and serrate margins, rather 
 peculiar. The bunches are long, loose, and pendulous, with 
 small unequal berries. The berry-stalks are very long and 
 thin. The berries are the smallest of all grapes, have a thin 
 husk, and contain no stones. There are a number of varieties 
 of this plant, best recognized by the varying colour of the 
 grapes. The commonest is yellowish green, with a strong 
 grey bloom ; another is violet ; and a third blue. These vines 
 are also much cultivated in Asia Minor and in Italy. The 
 raisins termed currants are produced by twisting the stalk of 
 the ripe bunch, and thus interrupting the passage of juice into 
 the grapes. They then dry up and are collected, separated 
 from the stalks, and packed for exportation. 
 
 Another Greek vine is the Greco, of which we possess no 
 particular description. A third is the Cigro, the vine peculiar 
 to Cyprus. Its wood is yellowish brown. Its leaves are very 
 thin, mostly trilobed, with large teeth round the margin. The 
 bunch is large, long, and has mostly short branches. Most 
 peculiar are the berries : they are large, and, while unripe, are 
 thick at the insertion of the stalk, and pointed towards the 
 umbilicus, but when ripe they have the shape of acorns, and 
 are dark blue with few points. The white and black Moscada 
 of Greece are identical with those of Frontignan. The Malvasia 
 exists in several varieties, which are not as yet well diagnosed. 
 
XXIII.] VINIFICATION. 
 
 70s 
 
 The Sultana is cultivated for its stoneless large raisins, but 
 not on so large a scale as in Asia. The most important vine 
 for the small islands seems to be the Assyrticon, which forms 
 the great majority of the vines of Santorin, and is cultivated 
 in a peculiar manner, to be described below. Besides these, 
 there are cultivated in Greece about sixty varieties of vines, 
 of which we have not been able to ascertain either the names 
 or descriptions. 
 
 Vinification. — This is mostly very imperfect, so that the 
 wines contain more volatile, i. e. acetic acid, than any others 
 which we have met with. Many wines last only through the 
 winter, and in summer turn into vinegar. To avoid this result 
 the proprietors still adopt all the horrid preservatives of 
 antiquity : smoking with wood smoke, or vapour of rosin.s, 
 such as mastic, olibanum, cloves, Rhodus wood, Buchari-Iagh, 
 and labdanum, — the Commendaria (Cyprus) wine is said to 
 get its flavour from these rosins and gums and spices, which are 
 suspended in the wine, enclosed in a bag ; pitching the barrels, 
 adding turpentine and real pines ; addition of gypsum, chalk, 
 salt, and of tannin, particularly in the form of hypericum per- 
 foratum, a resino-tannous plant, which is said to conserve 
 and colour wine yellow. Most wine has also the taste and 
 smell of the goats, in the hides of which it is kept or trans- 
 ported. In Cyprus and other parts jars are still in use, but 
 in Santorin and other islands barrels are becoming more fre- 
 quent. The several parts of Greece produce, according to the 
 "Journal des Travaux de la Soci^t^ frangaise de Statistique 
 universelle," the following kinds and quantities of wine : — 
 
 Southern Part of Thessaly, situated between Turkey, the 
 sea of the Archipelago, Livadia, and the Ionian Sea, under 
 38° N. latitude. The south-eastern part is called Akarnania, 
 and produces wine at Arta, Limni, and Komboti. 
 
 Livadia, ancient Greece proper, between Thessaly, the 
 Archipelago, and the Gulf of Lepanto. The principal vine- 
 yards are near Lepanto, Chseronea, Megara, and on the 
 slopes of Mount Poligouna ; secondary vineyards are near 
 Koskina, and in one of the valleys of Mount Helikon. Not 
 far from Athens is Mount Hymettus, known by its bees and 
 
 ,z z 
 
7o6 MOREA. [chap. 
 
 honey. The wine bearing its name is grown in the plain 
 surrounding the mount. Near Megara, twenty-seven miles 
 west of Athens, upon the frontiers of Livadia and Morea, 
 is the port of Cendura, from which much wine and large 
 quantities of currants are exported. Upon the isthmus is 
 situated what remains of Korihth, the ancient town known 
 by games and currants, often destroyed by earthquakes. 
 
 Morea is a peninsula, situated under 36° and n° north lati- 
 tude. Its northern •part, Achaja, has extensive vineyards near 
 Patras, Blattero, Voltizza, and Kalavrito. Near the latter town 
 is the convent of Megaspileon, where the monks make and 
 keep wines in large quantities, some of their tonnels hold- 
 ing from 7,000 to 15,000 litres, In the county of Elis, or the 
 circle of Gastonin, much red and white wine is made. The best 
 wine of the Morea is made near Pergos, and amounts to 100,000 
 barils annually. Red and white astringent wines are produced 
 near Barbacena and Budschaka, on the left bank of the Alpheus. 
 Schiron, near Palacropolis, produces currants and wine of 
 280,000 piastres' annual value. Argolis, east of Achaia, has 
 vineyards near Argos, and in the valley of St. Giorgio, twelve 
 miles from Argos. Nauplia, or Napoli di Malvasia, the place 
 whence Malvasia wines derived their name, was nearly de- 
 stroyed during the Greek wars of independence, and produces 
 but little wine in the present day. Arcadia is in the centre of 
 the Morea, and produces annually 15,000 barils wine, value 
 1 50,000 piastres ; and 2,000 barils brandy, value 80,000 pias- 
 tres. The largest vineyards are in the valley of Phokia, 
 eighteen English miles north of Tripolizza. In the district of 
 the latter town, known as Tripolis, 15,000 barils of wine are 
 made. Messenia is the south-western part of the Morea, 
 situated upon the Ionian Sea. The vineyards near Androussa 
 and Nisi produce annually 15,000 barils of wine and 600 barils 
 of brandy, value 177,000 piastres. Modon, a promontory west 
 of Koron, produces 2,000 barils, value 20,000 piastres. The 
 south-east of the Morea, Lakonia, makes much Malvasia, 
 particularly at Misitra. Few of these wines, red or white, rise 
 to the quality of third class ; many remain much below. 
 
 The Islands of the Archipelago, situated under 36° to 39° 
 
XXIir.] ARCHIPELAGO AND SANTORIN. 707, 
 
 north latitude, producing wines or raising, are in the order 
 from N. to S. : Scopolo, Sciati, Sl^yro, Negroponte, Andros, 
 Tine, Zia, Myconi, Thermina, Naxos, Amorgo, and Santorini. 
 Near Skyro (Syra) a red wine, Como, is grown. Scio 
 (formerly Chios) grew more wine in ancient times than 
 now : here red and white grapes are mixed. The " Nectar " 
 of Merta is bitter and astringent. Samos exports grapes, 
 raisins, and wines, amongst the- latter a muscat. Zea, or 
 Zia, is ancient Cos. Of Tenedosthe only production and 
 trade is wine : it sends annually 100,000 barils to Constan- 
 tinople, Smyrna, and the Euxine, for Russia: this wine is the 
 general table-wine of the Orient, wherever wine is drunk. 
 
 Santorin, ancient Thera, is a volcanic island, an imperfect 
 ring, the crater filled by the sea, in the centre a conical 
 prominence. The seaward slopes of the outer ring furnish the 
 wine lands. Of Santorin, Denman, quoting the Abbd Fugues, 
 Sup6rieur de la Mission de Santorin, " Histoire et Ph^nom^nes 
 du Volcan et des Isles volcaniques de Santorin," as his 
 authority, says (p. 262), hardly a corner is left untilled ; 
 and although its clearance and manipulation involve much 
 labour and expenditure, the proprietors cultivate it up to the 
 margin of the rocks. They plant the vines far apart from 
 each other, often eight feet or more, the distance being 
 governed by the quality, the strength, or the aridity of the 
 ground, in order that each stock may be sufficiently nourished 
 and its roots freely developed. The stems, consequently, are 
 strong, short, and vigorous, and grow four, five, or six shoots, 
 which spread out in the form of a chandelier, crowned with 
 an abundant foliage. In due time these become loaded with 
 large grapes, which amply recompense the vintager for his 
 labour, for his care, and for the space which he devoted to 
 the advantage of the root itself. 
 
 Mode of training the Vine. — The young plant is closely 
 pruned for the first three or four seasons ; and when it has 
 formed a few branches of sufficient strength, the shoots are 
 cut down to two or three feet in length, twined altogether in 
 a roll, and then laid horizontally in a circle on props to 
 support them in the shape of a kind of crown. Each Suc- 
 
 z z 2 
 
7o8 WINES OF SANTORIN. [chap. 
 
 ceediiig year, after dressing the branches which the crown 
 has put forth, and pruning such as are too weak, they entwine 
 and rest them on the circle formed the preceding season, 
 widening successively every new layer, and continuing the 
 operation for a period of fifteen or twenty years, so that a 
 sort of funnel or inverted cone is gradually produced by 
 a succession of these crowns uniformly superposed. The 
 plants so fashioned, when in full verdure, resemble a circular 
 bushy shrub, become well laden with fruit, and produce a 
 much larger quantity than older vines ; but the wine derived 
 from the grapes is considered inferior in point of quality. 
 
 Varieties of Vines.- — More than sixty varieties of vines 
 are naturahzed in Santorin, but in the manufacture of wine, 
 both red and white, one sort — the Assyrticon — is almost 
 exclusively employed. Some of the vines yield enormous 
 grapes, the bunches weighing sometimes as much as ten 
 or twelve pounds. 
 
 Quantity of Wine produced. — In ordinary seasons 9,000 
 pipes, in years of abundance 11,000 pipes, are obtained. It 
 is principally exported to Taganrok, at the mouth of the 
 Don, to Odessa, and to Tanais in the Sea of Azoph, and 
 goes to supply the wants of the interior of Russia. 
 
 Qualities of the Wines. — They are red and white, and are 
 named after the localities of their growth. The best red 
 growth is called Santorin, and is dry and spirituous. Thera 
 is a white variety, which bears the ancient name of the 
 island and its lost capital. Another white wine, called in the 
 island " the wine of night,'' is supplied in two qualities, under 
 the distinctive names of Calliste and St. Elie, the former being 
 the stouter and richer of the two. Besides these, there is a 
 muscadine wine, named Vin Santo, made of two colours, the 
 one a deep purple, and the other a golden amber. Such wine 
 is confined to the dessert, and is ordinarily served in small 
 glasses, even at Santorin. It is made from grapes which 
 have been dried in the sun for eight or ten days. 
 
 Ionian Islands. — The red wines of Corfu are light and 
 delicate ; production 33,000 barils annually. A liqueur 
 from raisins is also made, called Rosolio. Cephalonia pro- 
 
XXIII.] WINES OF THE TURKISH ISLANDS. 709 
 
 duces upwards of 40,000 barils of red wines of the fifth class ; 
 also some white muscats. Zante produces dry and sweet 
 wines, amongst the latter a liqueur wine made from currant 
 grapes, called Jenerodi. Thiaki (Ithaca) produces more than 
 6,000 barils of currants, and Santa Maura is said to produce 
 more than 50,000 barils annually. All wines made in the 
 Ionian Islands are plastered. 
 
 WINES OF THE TURKISH ISLANDS. 
 
 Candia (ancient Crete) produced formerly a kind of Malvasia 
 wine, of which the quantity produced annually at the end 
 of the sixteenth century is stated by A. Baccius (Naturalis 
 Vinorum Historia ; Romae, 1696, fol. p. 331) to have amounted 
 to 200,000 barils. The wines produced there at the present 
 time are red and white ; some muscats do not bear transport. 
 In a ruined monastery, Arcadi, are fine cellars, now disused. 
 The principal vineyards are near Kanea, Kisamos, Spacchia, 
 and Kandia. 
 
 Rhodes produces sweet and luscious wines from vines, some 
 of which bear grapes of the size of plums. Here, as in 
 Malaga, three harvests are possible. 
 
 Cyprus. — The vineyards of Cyprus are on the slopes of 
 hills covered with flinty stones and a blackish earth, mixed 
 with veins of ochre. The prevailing vine is the Cipro, already 
 described above ; it is mostly cultivated on the soil, without 
 the aid of stakes. The wines produced are of three classes. 
 The first class consists of the wines of the Commandery of 
 the Knights Templars, and is made in the vineyards near 
 Paphos, in the district of Orni. It is fermented and matured 
 in about 40,000 earthenware vessels of the ancient shape of 
 amphorae, of which each holds from ten to twelve litres. The 
 wine is of a dull red colour, and becomes tawny by age, or of 
 a golden yellow, a little sweet, with an astringent bytaste, 
 fiery, of great and peculiar flavouV, and a fine bouquet, 
 reminding of bitter almonds, supposed to be imparted to 
 a certain extent by extraneous spices. The second class 
 wines are sweet muscats, of which the best are made at 
 Arnodos. The third class are the common wines, which 
 
7IO CYPRUS. [chap, xxiir. 
 
 are at first pale red, but become nearly colourless in time. 
 Two centuries ago this island exported 365,000 cuses (or 
 guzes) of wine ; forty years ago the export had fallen to 
 65,000 guzes. The wines exported in the present day are 
 shipped mainly from Larnaka, the southern port of Cyprus, 
 to Venice and Livorno. At Venice much Cyprus wine is 
 still drunk. The Cyprus wine measures are the cass, equal 
 to I J English wine-gallon, or 473 litres; and the carica, 
 equal to 10414 litres. The baril, repeatedly mentioned in 
 the foregoing, is the Venetian barilla, equal to 64 boccalis 
 (beakers), or 64-3859 litres, or I4'i7ii2 English imperial 
 gallons. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 THE WINES OF ASIA. 
 
 Wines of Caucasia: Cachetia, Georgia, Mingrelia, Iraeretia, Armenia, and 
 Schirwan. WINES of Persia : King Dschemschid. — Wines of Shiraz.— 
 Description of vines grown at Siiiraz. —Production, consumption, and export 
 of Persian wines. 
 
 WINES OF CAUCASIA. 
 
 The province of Cachetia produces much wine, and, as some 
 relate, nothing but wine. The production amounts to two 
 millions of " Eimer " annually ; the price of good red wine 
 is "jd. (i abass) per five bottles (i tunga). Common wine 
 is sold at from 5 to 6 kopecs, or 2.d., per tunga. The 
 natives keep and transport the wine in skins of buffaloes 
 and goats, which are turned with the hair inside and pitched 
 with black naphtha. In some parts the wine is kept in large 
 earthenware vases, of the size of hogsheads, which are buried 
 in the ground. Casks and cellars are beginning to come into 
 use, and the vines are improved by the importation of cuttings 
 from the Crimea. 
 
 Georgia also produces much wine, particularly at Tiflis, 
 Signack, Elisabethopol, Mokozange, Vachery, and Tschenie- 
 daly. At Tiflis the vines peculiar to Shira? are grown, and 
 viticulture is mainly in the hands of vintners from Suabia, or 
 their descendants. 
 
 Mingrelia, Imeretia, Armenia, and Schirwan also produce 
 wine, and of the parts north of the Caucasus, the valley of the 
 Terek. The best Mingrelian wine is that of Odischi. Every- 
 
712 WINES OF PERSIA. [chap. 
 
 where German colonists are settled, who produce wine in casks, 
 and realize good prices. It is believed that seven and a half 
 millions of bottles are produced in these parts alone. 
 
 The Caucasian wines are mostly colourless, like water ; the 
 red ones are pale red. They are fiery, but after three years 
 become bitter, and thereby resemble some of the best growths 
 of Burgundy. Much of the wine in Caucasia is distilled for 
 brandy, of which Cachetia produces 20,000 hogsheads annually. 
 There is also effervescent wine produced in Caucasia, and a 
 Society, the " Caucasian Company for the manufacture of 
 Champagne from Indigenous Grapes,'' carries on a consider- 
 able trade in such wine. It is sold more particularly in 
 Russia, specially at St. Petersburg. 
 
 The marine trade of Caucasia, which formerly was so consi- 
 derable, has been completely destroyed by the Russian block- 
 ade, which was kept up for more than a generation for the 
 purpose of subjecting the people of that country. This pur- 
 pose has now completely succeeded, but the trade of the 
 east of the Euxine has not been restored. 
 
 WIN'ES OF PERSIA. 
 
 It is related by Strabo that, in the district of the coast of 
 the Gulf of Persia called Makine, the vine grew in swamps, 
 and was cultivated in these morasses by people who placed 
 baskets of earth into the water, in which the vines were planted. 
 The vines in the.se baskets were as detached from the land as 
 a flower-pot in a conservatory, and were now and then carried 
 out of reach of the .shore by floods or winds. In that case the 
 cultivators replaced them again by means of long poles to 
 their former positions. This paludal cultivation indicates a 
 similar original occurrence of the plant in the same country. 
 
 Persian history and legend contain frequent references to 
 wine. King Dschemschid is celebrated as having raised the 
 accidental discovery of wine to a method of making and 
 keeping it. He was very fond of eating grapes, and caused 
 great vessels full of them to be collected in order to enjoy 
 himself beyond the season. But they fermented and ran to 
 juice, and the mixture boiled so suspiciously, that it was 
 
XXIV.] WINES OF SHIRAZ. 713 
 
 believed to be a new? poison, and was put aside for appropriate 
 use. Gulnare, the beautiful, one of Dschemschid's seven 
 hundred virives, grew tired of the tedium in the harem, and 
 determined to destroy herself . She selected the new poison 
 as her agent, and drank a long draught, which became a deep 
 one when she found that the poison, contrary to expectation, 
 tasted very nice. The poison soon acted : Gulnare sank to 
 the ground, and fell asleep. But she awoke to despair. 
 Enraged she doubles the dose. In vain she seeks destruction, 
 but finds happiness in frequent small draughts of the sus- 
 pected liquid. Shah Dschemschid discovers the effect of the 
 condemned grape-juice upon his mistress, tries, approves, and 
 henceforth is the patron of wine. The wines of Persia most 
 renowned in ancient times were those of Ariana (Iran), Bac- 
 triana (Turan), Hyrcania (Mazanderan), and Margiana (Chor- 
 assan). Their reputation survived for some time the intro- 
 duction of the Islam. Mazanderan borders the south of the 
 Caspian, and the fertile part of the Chorassan is the eastern 
 continuation of the former province. All these parts still 
 produce wines, but their characteristics and reputation have 
 become blended in the wine of Shiraz, in the province of 
 Ferdistan on the Gulf of Persia. 
 
 WINES OF SHIRAZ. 
 
 The best wine-producing district of Persia is situated on the 
 lower ranges of the Zagros mountain, which run from the Gulf 
 of Persia to the Caspi Lake. Shiraz, the capital of Ferdistan, 
 is in the centre of this district, and is surrounded by vineyards 
 and pomegranate orchards. The hills round the neighbouring 
 village of Ferdistan bear the largest grapes of any Persian 
 vine, but the imperial grape of Tauris, though smaller, is con- 
 sidered more juicy and delicate. The best vineyards of Shiraz 
 are situated at the foot of the mountain to the north-west of 
 the town ; they have strong soil and an excellent exposure. 
 The vines are mostly grown low, and rarely tied to stakes. 
 In some parts the cultivators construct stone walls, and train 
 the vines up one side and down the other, by tying stones to 
 
714 IVINES OF SHIRAZ. [cHAP. 
 
 the canes. At Casvin the vine-grower3 irrigate the vineyards 
 annually, twenty days after the feast of Nokooz, or about 
 April lo, and the Vizier assured Morier, that the clayey 
 soil thus treated retained the moisture throughout the period 
 of vegetation, and the effect lasted until the irrigation in the 
 next year. There are twelve principal varieties of vines. 
 
 Kishmish carries a beautiful large bunch of white grapes. 
 The berries are oval, of medium size, have a tender thin iusk, 
 no kernels, and are of agreeable acidulous taste. The grapes 
 of this variety serve for eating, wine-making, and the produc- 
 tion of raisins. 
 
 Damas yields a black grape, from which the finest fed wine 
 is made. This wine is full-bodied, rich, and of great durability. 
 Samarkand. — Of this vine several varieties are grown ; some 
 bear bunches up to twelve pounds in weight. 
 
 Rischbaba, the principal vine of Shiraz, bears large white 
 grapes without kernels. 
 
 Askeri. — A smaller grap^ than the foregoing ; very sweet. 
 Imperial of Tawis, already alluded to above. Besides these 
 a great number of white, green, yellow, violet, red, brown, 
 blue and black grapes are grown, of which the names and 
 descriptions have not reached us. 
 
 The wine of Shiraz is fermented in large egg-shaped vases 
 of earthenware, 4 feet high, and holding 250 to 300 litres, 
 or more than a hogshead. They are glazed inside and out- 
 side, covered with purified mutton-tallow, and are kept buried 
 in the earth in cool cellars. The wine is bottled in glass 
 flasks, holding from four to five (old Paris) pints ; the bottles 
 are stoppered with hard-pressed cotton, covered with wax, 
 enclosed in matting, and packed in boxes holding ten. It is 
 described by Chardin as being of excellent quality, but not so 
 fine as the French fine wines ; indeed its taste is harsh at first, 
 and the stranger must have drunk it for some days in order to 
 fully appreciate all its good qualities. This is the judgment 
 of a Frenchman ; the German Kampfer highly praises the 
 Shiraz wine, and puts it on a level with the best growths of 
 the .Champagne and of Burgundy. It is thus evident that the 
 praises which the poet Hafiz bestowed upon the produce of 
 
XXTV:]-. WINES OF SHLRAZ. Hi 
 
 his native town were not altogether fancies. The remarks of 
 the foregoing travellers refer to wine which was as much as 
 possible in its natural state. But there are also fortified or 
 liqueur wines made in Shiraz. A white variety has body, 
 strength, great sweetness, and a pecuHar bouquet. The red 
 wine, now and then brought to Europe, is always treated with 
 alcohol and peculiar perfuming resinous matters, which at 
 first suit the European palate as little as the rose-flavoured 
 confectionery of Turkey. But they are no doubt fine and 
 remarkable. The wines of Shiraz are originally sold by weight. 
 The popular proverb considers them as essential agents of 
 happiness : " Who will live merrily should take his wine from 
 Shiraz, his bread from Yesdecast, and a rosy wife from Yest." 
 Next to Shiraz in importance as wine-producing places are 
 Teheran, the capital of the Shah, Yezd, Skamaki, Gilan, Casvin, 
 Tabriz, and Ispahan. All these places are situated on the 
 southern slopes of mountains of greater or less height, and 
 thus oflfer great facilities for viticulture. 
 
 The wines of Persia are mostly consumed within the country, 
 but some are exported to Hindostan, China, and Japan. 
 There is no doubt that both the consumption and production 
 of wine in Persia is much smaller than it was in historic times, 
 and this diminution is due to the influence of the Mahom- 
 medan religion : for although the Persians are Sunnites, or 
 adherents of Ali, and therefore much less rigid in religious 
 observances than the Schiites, the followers of Omar, or true 
 Turks, they lean to the observance of the Koran, in which 
 wine is forbidden. Wine and spirit drinking are therefore 
 done in secret, and with the usual results of the Sunday 
 drinking of religious countries. With the open production 
 and sale of wine disappears its knowledge, and it becomes a 
 mystery like Cape port and Elbe sherry. The Persian of to-day 
 buys his wine from the Gueber, Jewish, or Armenian growers, 
 who are licensed upon payment of a tax. It is frequently 
 mixed with raki and saffron, or the extract of hemp, which is 
 added to make smaller quantities more narcotic. However, 
 if the wine drinkers of these countries appear to be behind 
 our present notions of what is devout, by considering that the 
 
7i6 WINES OF &HIRAZ. [chap. xxiv. 
 
 use of wine legitimately terminates in intoxication, we must 
 be reminded that such ideas prevailed greatly amongst our 
 almost immediate forefathers, and that therefore we may 
 expect the Persians to amend their manners in time as we 
 have amended ours. 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 THE WINES Oh AFRICA. 
 
 Wines of the Cape of Good Hope : Topography, climate, and soil. — His- 
 torical note concerning viticulture at the Cape. — Varieties of vines cultivated at 
 the Cape. — Peculiarities of cultivation. — Vintage and vinification. — Qualifica- 
 tion of Cape wines. — Imports ot Cape wines into England. — Principal viti- 
 cultural districts and estates: Stellenbosh, 'Drakenstein, Paarl, the three 
 Constantias. The Vine in other parts of Africa : Indigenous vines of 
 Madagascar. — French Islands. — Morocco, its vines and raisins. — Algiers. 
 —Egypt. 
 
 WINES OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 The following data regarding the wines of the Cape of Good, 
 Hope are extracted mainly from a report by Dr. Edward 
 Kretschmar, a German physician who practised at the Cape 
 during more than fifteen years. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, AND SOIL. 
 
 South Africa resembles in its climate that of Southern 
 Europe, but its soils are deficient in many respects. The 
 predominant soils of the Cape Colony,, e.g., are stiff clays, 
 impenetrable to the instruments of agriculture until thoroughly 
 moistened with rain, and light red sands, capable of great 
 fertility, whenever they are sufficiently irrigated. Where, as 
 at Constantia, oxyde of iron and chalk are liberally mixed 
 with the clay and sand, and water can be brought to the soil 
 in the dry season, remarkable fecundity is the result. Grapes, 
 oranges, figs, peaches, apricots, plums grow in great abun- 
 dance and perfection, particularly in the districts bordering 
 upon the western or Atlantic coast ; the eastern coast district 
 
7iS VINES AND CULTIVATION. [chap. 
 
 is less warm and less fertile, while the interior is to a large 
 extent barren, high table-land, like the interior of Spain. 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTE CONCERNING VITICULTURE AT 
 THE CAPE. 
 
 Vines were here first planted by Dutch settlers under the 
 governorship of Jan van Riebeck in 1650. They did not elect 
 the most suitable localities for their vineyards, and this want 
 of knowledge of the conditions of successful viticulture 
 operates against the wines of the Cape to the present day. 
 This is the more surprising, as many of the wine-boors are 
 rich and intelligent. Their smallest farms are 120 acres in 
 extent, and freehold. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES CULTIVATED AT THE CAPE. 
 
 Governor Riebeck is related to have imported vines from 
 the Rhine, from France, Spain, Greece, Madeira, and Shiraz 
 in Persia. The muscat of Frontignan prevails in the best 
 situations, and is kept pure. Most expanded are perhaps the 
 cultivation of the German Riessling giving white, and the 
 Burgundy grape giving red wine. Two vines which go under 
 Dutch names, we cannot at present identify any better. They 
 are the Groene-druyf (green grape) and the Steen-druyf (stone 
 grape). The Haenapop (has-no-pip) is easily recognized as 
 the Persian vine, yielding the stoneless Sultana raisins ; such 
 raisins are also made in large quantities at the Cape. There 
 is also the vine yielding the Lachryma; Christi, which at the 
 Cape bears this name. 
 
 PECULIARITIES OF CULTIVATION, 
 
 The methods of cultivation are those usual in the countries 
 from which the several vines are derived, modified however 
 by several circumstances. During the dry season the vines 
 would drop their fruit, if they were not irrigated. With the 
 help of water, however, they grow to beautiful size and per- 
 fection. Nevertheless the wines do not become very strong, 
 perhaps as some allege, who oppose the irrigation altogether, 
 
XXV.] VINTAGE AND VINIFICATION. 719 
 
 because it is too long continued, and the grapes are therefore 
 never sufficiently cooked by the hot sun and soil. However, 
 as the Constantia vineyards are regularly irrigated, there must 
 be means of obviating the disadvantageous effect of the pro- 
 cess, which for the main growth of the plant and fruit seems 
 to be absolutely essential. 
 
 VINTAGE AND VINIFICATION. 
 
 Before the vintage, the proprietors have to battle with many 
 enemies. The Kaffirs rob their vineyards on the largest scale, 
 and make wine and raisins from the product of their robberies. 
 Many grapes are devoured by wild dogs. Cape badgers, and 
 monkeys, and sometimes enormous flights of birds appear, 
 and consume or damage and defile a great number of bunches 
 of grapes. The proprietors of great estates collect and treat 
 the harvest according to the rules of Europe ; but many of 
 the boors perform this part very negligently. They maintain 
 that bad wine sells better than good, and do not take the 
 trouble to make any selection. All kinds of grapes, ripe and 
 unripe, rotten and hard, are pressed together ; to the red 
 grapes some French Pontac is mixed already at the time of 
 fermentation. The casks used at the Cape are all imported, 
 as the wood of indigenous trees — such as the Cuyaten, Geel- 
 hout, and cedar — cannot be used for wine casks, owing to its 
 containing certain aromatic oils of which the taste would 
 contaminate the wine. The fermented wines are sulphured, 
 either by fumes, or by the admixture of flowers of sulphur ; 
 freshly-killed meat is hung up in them, for who knows what 
 purpose ; lastly, they are dosed with Cape-smoke, so called, 
 i.e. indigenous brandy. Having thus protected his wine from 
 acetification with great difficulty, — for he possesses no cellars, 
 and is obliged to keep his barrels in thatched huts above 
 ground, — the boor sells it to the trader. This latter now 
 begins to metamorphose the Cape wine into South African 
 port and sherry. 
 
730 PRINCIPAL VITICULTURAL DISTRICTS. [CHAP. 
 
 QUALIFICATION OF CAPE WINES. 
 The sweet, pale-red Constantias are liqueur wines of the 
 second class ; they soon lose the muscat flavour, but gain 
 ripeness instead. A simmered wine called Kokwyn, made 
 from muscat grapes, resembles Malaga, and belongs to the 
 third class. The red wines called dry Pontac and Burgundy, 
 made from the relative grapes, are wines of the third class, 
 when properly prepared, but mostly do not rise above the 
 fifth class. The Cape hock of the village of Paarl in the 
 valley of Drakenstein is a very characteristic wine, which 
 belongs to the fourth and third classes of white wines. The 
 anonymous wines of South Africa are also red and white, the 
 latter being dry. They have none of the earthy or slaty taste, 
 so often complained of, if properly prepared. It is probable 
 that the worst faults of which Cape wines are susceptible are 
 the result of their being in too many instances made by the 
 almost unaided efforts of ignorant Kafflrs or negroes. 
 
 IMPORTS OF CAPE WINE INTO ENGLAND. 
 In 1859 the importation of Cape wine into England had, 
 owing to the differential duty in favour of the colonies, risen 
 to 781,581 gallons. After the reduction of the wine duties in 
 i860 the importation fell in 1862 to 182,282 gallons, or from 
 iO'84 per cent, of the whole imports of wine in 1859 to i'8 per 
 cent, of the imports in 1862, and is at present still more con- 
 tracted. The whole of this wine was, and is at present, used 
 to produce strong brandied liquids in imitation of sherry and 
 port. It is at least very difficult to obtain pure Cape wine in 
 England ; and if we have been able to study a few authentic 
 specimens, it is only through the favour of friends that we 
 have thus succeeded. It is to be desired that good, pure 
 natural Cape wines should be accessible to the public through 
 reliable trade channels. 
 
 PRINCIPAL VITICULTURAL DISTRICTS AND ESTATES. 
 Stellenbosh, a considerable wine district north of False Bay, 
 is so named from a former governor. Van der Stell, and the 
 bushes that covered it. He acquired large portions of territory 
 
XXV.] THE CONSTANTIAS. 721 
 
 in that locality, and constructed a reservoir in the mountains 
 to irrigate his farms and vines during the exhaustive dry- 
 season, conveying the water in a channel by his wine stores to 
 a mill where he ground his corn. 
 
 Drakenstein, another settlement north-east of Stellenbosh, 
 was founded by a colony of French refugees on the revocation 
 of the Edict of Nantes in 1685. Land more applicable for the 
 growth of corn was indiscriminately appropriated to the use 
 of the grape. The neighbouring Dutch farmers imitated the 
 cultivation of the vine, but notwithstanding they had before 
 their eyes, in the fine plantations of Constantia, the beneficial 
 results of appropriate soil and site, they omitted to profit by 
 the example and to select the fittest locality for their vine 
 grounds, but persevered in establishing them as convenience 
 prompted, or wherever they were likely to gather the heaviest 
 crop. 
 
 On the western side of the valley of Drakenstein stands the 
 village of Paarl, surrounded by a fertile tract of land, and 
 especially distinguished by a curious mass of granite, sur- 
 mounted by a number of large pebbly stones like the pearls 
 of a necklace, to which it owes its name. Here the best dry 
 white wines, so-called Cape hocks, are produced. 
 
 The Constantias. — The most celebrated growths of the Cape 
 are three estates, termed respectively High Constantia, Great 
 Constantia, and Little Constantia, so named after the wife 
 of the Dutch Governor Van der Stell already mentioned, 
 their founder. The plantations are situated at the eastern 
 base of Table Mountain, about eight miles from Cape Town 
 and midway between False and Table Bays. The vineyards 
 are all upon very gentle slopes, just sufficiently inclined to 
 admit of the distribution of water by irrigation channels. The 
 soil of High Constantia is a red, ochrous chalky marl ; that 
 of Great and Little Constantia is a white sandy gravel, with 
 chalk. The latter soils are by some considered to yield 
 a better product than the soil of High Constantia, but the 
 differences, if any, are not very great. The prevailing vine is 
 the red muscat of Frontignan, which gives to all Constantia 
 wines their peculiar character. There are also a few other 
 
 3 A 
 
722 
 
 THE VINE IN OTHER [chap. 
 
 varieties of vines grown here, but, with the exception of the 
 Rhenish vine, they produce no characteristic products. The 
 vines are completely separated in different fields, by hedges, 
 and there are no mixed sets. The vineyards have a surface of 
 about 250 acres, or loi hectares, and produce annually from 
 700 to 800 hectolitres of wine. The vintage is conducted 
 with much care, the grapes being freed from the stalks, and 
 blemished fruit and other impurities removed before they are 
 pressed. The rest of the treatment of the must and wine is 
 like that adopted at Frontignan ; owing to the limited quan- 
 tities of the product, its price is well maintained. Constantia 
 wine is an exception to the rule that good things are not 
 valued in the land of their birth ; for it commands such high 
 prices at Cape Town, and is so little valued in London, that 
 a cargo of genuine wine, which had been brought to London 
 in 1858, was taken back to the Cape, and realized better 
 prices than had been offered at London, the double freight 
 and other expenses notwithstanding. 
 
 Thus it is seen that the Constantia begins to share the fate 
 of all sweet liqueur wines; they are so easily falsified, or 
 imitated, that the genuine products themselves can no longer 
 be distinguished with certainty, and are consequently dis- 
 trusted and neglected. Another notable estate near Con- 
 stantia is Witteboom, which also produces red muscats 
 resembling those of its neighbours. Seal Island in Table 
 Bay also produces some good wines. 
 
 THE VINE IN OTHER PARTS OF AFRICA. 
 
 Madagascar has an indigenous vine, which the natives 
 declare to bear a poisonous fruit. Considering that there is 
 an American vine whose husk inflames the lips, we ought not 
 to ascribe this allegation to Mahometan prejudice without 
 inquiry, even although some Frenchmen in their settlements 
 of Fort Dauphin, Port Louis, Nossebel, and Mayotta (Isle of 
 Comoren), made wine of that grape, which was innocuous. 
 Isle de France and Bourbon cultivate the vine only for its 
 grapes in gardens, and have abandoned attempts for its 
 
XXV.] PARTS OF AFRICA. 723 
 
 more extensive cultivation, which, though viticulturally suc- 
 cessful, wrere opposed by difficulties in the vinification. 
 
 In Morocco the vine is cultivated down to 33° latitude. The 
 grapes grow large, full and sweet ; they are reared on espaliers 
 and made to form arched, covered walks, so as to keep the 
 soil shaded ; the land has, however, to be irrigated. The 
 gardens are surrounded by hedges of prickly pear cactus. 
 The largest of the seven principal varieties of grapes is called 
 " hen's egg," and is supposed to be identical with the Spanish 
 teta de vaca. Wine is only made by the Jews ; it is light and 
 acidulous, is kept in large earthenware jars and in skins, and 
 does not keep beyond one year. The best and largest amount 
 of wine is made at Uadnum, Tarodante, and Tangiers. In 
 the district of Mogador excellent raisins are made. 
 
 . Algeria possessed in the year 1 860 only about 220 hectares 
 of vineyards, of which the province of Alger contained 145 ; 
 that of Oran, 70; and Constantine a small rest. In 1870 it 
 was stated that Oran then had reared 3,200 hectares of vine- 
 yard, and that the wines resembled the small wines of Lan- 
 guedoc. The late revolt will have changed the prospects of 
 this enterprise to some extent. In ancient times the valley of 
 the Nile produced the wines of Arsinoe, Mendes, Koptos, and 
 Mareotis ; its Delta, the liqueur wine of Sebenytus, of which 
 latter large quantities were exported to Rome : since the 
 spread of Islamism only grapes and raisins are produced. 
 At Fayum, near the Lakes Moeris and Medineh, the' vines 
 grow luxuriously. Raisins are made at Djeddie, Denderah, 
 Kous, Farshout, Marach, and Ain-Tab. 
 
 3 A2 
 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 THE VINES AND WINES OF AMERICA. 
 
 Historical notes on the cultivation of the vine in North America. — The vcild 
 or indigenous, vines of North America: Fox-grape, Summer-grape, Caribsan 
 grape, Mustang vine, Califomian vine, Frost grape. River grape, Scuppemong, 
 Mountain gitipe, Texan mountain grape, Post-oak grape. — Cultivation of the 
 vine in America. — Variation of vines cultivated in North America.^ Cultivation 
 of vines foreign to America. — Vinification in the United States. — Statistical 
 notes on the production of wine in North America. — Extent of trade in spark- 
 ling Catawba. — Acreage under viticulture. — Years of good and bad vintages 
 in Notth America. 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTES ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE VINE 
 IN NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 The first attempts to cultivate the vine were made in 1564, 
 with an indigenous vine of Florida. 
 
 A French traveller, of the name of Dufour, who planted 
 many vines after 1805, reported that a Frenchman was in the 
 habit of collecting the grapes from the vines which grow v/ild 
 on the islands of the Ohio, and to produce a few barrels full 
 of wine, which was estimated as good as wine grown in the 
 neighbourhood of Paris. It was then supposed that these 
 vines were of French origin, but Dufour found them wild in 
 Kentucky and other parts. 
 
 In 1796, Dufour had visited all the places where viticulture 
 had been attempted, up to Kaskaskia on the Mississippi. 
 None deserved in his opinion the name of vineyard. In the last 
 named locality some Jesuits had made a plantation, which the 
 
CHAP. XXVI.] VINES OF NORTH AMERICA. 725 
 
 French Government of that day caused to be destroyed for 
 fear of its making competition to the wines of France. 
 
 Major Adlum, Mr. Longworth, some Swiss emigrants at 
 V^vay, and some proprietors in Carolina, recognized that the 
 vines from Europe would not succeed, and that recourse must 
 be had to indigenous plants. Viticulture rose, so that on the 
 Ohio, now termed the Rhine of North America, there are 
 upwards of 1550 acres of vineyards under cultivation. 
 
 In 1830, Prince enumerated more than 88 varieties of 
 American vines ; but only few, to be mentioned hereafter, are 
 cultivated either for wine-making or eating. 
 
 THE WILD OR INDIGENOUS VINES OF NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 The learned memoir with which M. des Moulins has pre- 
 faced his translation of Durand's monograph should be perused 
 by all students of botany, and particularly by readers interested 
 in the history of the botanical literature on the vine. The 
 French viticultuwsts turned their attention to American vines, 
 when the oidium was destroying their own. Many varieties 
 of vines were consequently brought to France and culti- 
 vated ; and if the primary object failed, in so far as no good 
 wine could be produced from any of them, yet scientific 
 botany gained great advantages. Thus we had the satisfac- 
 tion of seeing an almost complete collection of known Ame- 
 rican vines in the botanical garden at Bordeaux. Some 
 of them, yet young, had not borne fruit ; others were bearing 
 largely, particularly the varieties long since cultivated in 
 America and known in Europe. 
 
 We give the following characteristics of American indi- 
 genous vines after Durand, but avoid adding the many 
 synonyms, and prefer to relate the diagnoses in such English 
 as it is possible to translate botanical Latin into. 
 
 The vines are either polygamic or dioic. Durand attributes 
 no importance to this circumstance, and thinks that any 
 variety may become either, or be both. He therefore differs 
 from Bronner, who believes the dioic condition to be cha- 
 racteristic of the wild vines. All the vines given in the 
 
726 THE WILD OR INDIGENOUS [chap. 
 
 following are true vines, and have petals which cohere'at the 
 apex, and are pushed off hke a little cap, by the five stamina ; 
 the stylus is short and conical ; the leaves are simple ; the 
 branches very long and creeping. 
 
 First Section. — Leaves on their lower surface woolly, or 
 felted as if with a spider's web. 
 
 I. Vitis Labrusca (L.). — The Americans term it fox-grape, or 
 northern fox-grape. The leaves are of a broad heart-shape, 
 either almost entire, or trilobed, denticulated ; their under- 
 face, as well as the leaf-stalks and young branches or shoots, 
 covered with a whitish or yellowish felt ; bunch-stalks of grapes 
 rather short and simple ; berries, large purple-black, very 
 rarely becoming of a pale green, amber, or red colour. The 
 berries have nearly the same taste and flavour or odour as the 
 black currants {Ribes niger), and ripen at the end of August 
 or beginning of September. The plant occurs in the whole 
 of North America, which lies between the Atlantic Ocean 
 and the Rocky Mountains. Its long branches cover hedges 
 and rise to the tops of the highest trees. The berries are 
 round and large, sometimes attaining the size of a damson ; 
 the stalks are short and provided with few berries, almost 
 always simple, or bearing a single small sub-grape at the 
 base. The berry is generally black, and covered with an 
 abundant bloom. The taste of the grape, though similar to 
 the black currant, is sometimes more soft and less perfumed. 
 The pulp is tenacious, and does not easily melt in the 
 mouth; it slips on pressure as an entire lump out of the 
 thin hard skin. Although these wild grapes are very bad 
 to eat, to the taste of Europeans, the Americans are very 
 fond of them, and pay high prices for them in the markets. 
 
 It is assumed, that from this V. Labrusca a variety of pure 
 and hybrid races of vines have been produced by cultivation, 
 namely, the Isabella, Catawba, Schuylkill, Alexander, Bland's 
 grape, and others, mentioned amongst the cultivated varieties. 
 It has been proposed to plant the V. Labrusca and use it as 
 a footing for grafting thereon the European varieties. We 
 
XXVI.] VINES OF NORTH AMERICA. 727 
 
 are of opinion that this proposition should be tried on a large 
 scale, as we believe the great vegetative and root-power of 
 this vine will greatly develop the grafts. The Labrusca is 
 not subject to the oldium, even when its branches interleave 
 with those of ordinary vines affected by this parasite. 
 
 2. Vitis astivalis (Michaux). — Summer grape, Chicken 
 grape, Little grape. There are two varieties, the genuine and 
 the sinuated. The genuine has leaves of a broad heart-shape, 
 with unequally denticulated margins ; they are entire, or 
 divided in three or five lobes ; the lobes are pointed ; the 
 young leaves are felted on the lower face ; the bunches are 
 oblong and compound; berries saturated sky-blue, smaller than 
 those of Labrusca. They have an agreeable taste, and ripen 
 in October, although the grape is called summer-grape for 
 reasons unknown. The plant is found in the Atlantic region, 
 on the Mississippi, and beyond to the Occident. The sinuated 
 variety is distinguished by its leaves, - which are sinuated like 
 the hand, the lobes being divided by deep rhomboidal bays. 
 The berries are small, and have a most agreeable but austere 
 (Chapman) taste, and a dark sky-blue colour. It is found in 
 the South Atlantic regions up to Louisiana, where it is called 
 Pine-wood grape. The Vitis aestivalis is less vigorous than 
 the Labrusca ; and although it mounts up trees, yet its sinuate 
 variety frequently remains creeping on the ground. From 
 this latter the Delaware grape is derived. 
 
 The leaves of the V. Labrusca and V. cestivalis are so 
 variable, that no distinction can be established by their aid 
 alone. Their most characteristic differences are in the fruit. 
 
 3. Vitis CaribcBa (De Candolle). — Has nearly round, scarcely 
 heart-shaped, mostly entire, rarely three-lobed leaves, with a 
 wide but not deep stalk-sinus ; their margins are toothed 
 in undulating lines; the leaves bear a sharp point; their 
 surface is smooth, their lower face is like the surface of the 
 new branches, leaf and fruit stalks covered with a film ; the 
 grapes are compound, and a little longer than the leaves ; the 
 berries rather large, purple-black, little juicy,, and sour. It 
 lives in Florida, South Arkansas, and Mexico, and is very 
 common on the Antilles, 
 
728 THE WILD OR INDIGENOUS [chap. 
 
 4. Vitis candicans (Engelmann). — This is the Mustang 
 grape of New Mexico, Texas, and Arkansas. Its leaves are 
 heart-shaped, and may be three- or five-lobed, or not ; they are 
 toothed by undulating lines, and have no sharp point ; their 
 surface is saturated green and naked ; their lower sides and 
 the stalks and new branches are white-grey, woolly. The 
 grapes are dense, compound, and shorter than the leaves, and 
 have large purple-black berries. The husks of the berries 
 contain a very red and extremely acid juice ; the pulp, how- 
 ever, has a softer, not burning taste, and is eatable. This vine 
 is a great plague of the countries in which it lives, and destroys 
 the greatest trees in the wild forests, as well as in plantations. 
 It bears great numbers of grapes, a plant of eight years having 
 given to Professor Buckley 54 gallons (245-3 htres) of juice. 
 The wine obtained by direct fermentation is acid and poor. 
 There should therefore be made an addition of three pounds 
 of sugar to each gallon of must ; and after complete fermen- 
 tation and filtration, 10 per cent, of proof spirit should be 
 added to the wine bottled. A good strong-bodied, agreeable, 
 and nicely-coloured wine is thus obtained. 
 
 About five varieties of this vine are known ; some have a 
 white pulp, others a blood-red pulp ; the grapes of both are 
 externally black, when ripe. It blossoms in April, and ripens 
 in July and August. 
 
 Only half the number of plants encountered in the forests 
 are fertile, so that the vine is evidently regularly dioic, or 
 divided into plants of the male and the female sex. The 
 plant grows rapidly. Buckley saw some stems which were 
 two feet English in circumference; their branches extended 
 over five or six trees, each from 70 to 80 feet high. It is 
 probable that if this vigorous plant were used as the stock, or 
 basis or foot for grafts, great advantages might accrue. 
 
 In Texas the plant reaches a great size, some trees of from 
 1 8 to 20 inches in diameter having been cut down. Its fertility 
 is enormous. At the time of ripeness one sees but one black 
 mass of grapes, which covers all the leaves. The taste of 
 the grapes is detestable, owing to an acid principle con- 
 tained in the husk, which inflames the lips and the mucous 
 
XXVI.] VINES OF NORTH AMERICA. 729 
 
 membrane of the mouth. The husk is easily taken off with 
 the fingers, and then the pulp may be eaten with advantage. 
 
 5. Vitis Californica (Bentham). — This vine has roundish, 
 pointed leaves with large teeth ; they are entire, or three- to 
 five-lobed ; at the basis they are profoundly .cut out ; smooth 
 on the surface, they are below flaky and felted ; the berries 
 are small and black. The plant is very vigorous ; the taste 
 of the berry agreeable. It is common in California, Sonora, 
 and in the eastern part of New Mexico. 
 
 Second Section. — Leaves either quite smooth on both sides, 
 or slightly downy underneath. 
 
 6. Vitis cordifolia (Michaux). — This vine inhabits the whole 
 of the Atlantic region of America to the Rocky Mountains. 
 It occurs in two varieties, the genuine one, and the one which 
 lives on the banks of rivers. 
 
 The V. cordifolia genuina is also termed fox-grape,-^winter 
 and frost grape. Its leaves are smooth on both sides, with 
 unequal teeth ; the very young leaves are downy, but become 
 quickly smooth and shining ; the bunches of fruit are long, 
 sometimes a foot in length, and not very full of berries ; the 
 latter are black, small, and late. This vine is more feeble 
 than the Labrusca and aestivalis. Its young branches are 
 often very red, its leaves pale on the underside. The bunch 
 is frequently very poor, on account of the many sterile flowers. 
 The husks of the berries are very thin. The taste is acid, and 
 like that of black currants. The vines overgrow entire trees, 
 and flights of wild turkeys frequently settle upon them to eat 
 their fruit. (Blooms, in the Review entitled " The Correspon- 
 dent from Texas.") 
 
 The second variety is the riparia, or river grape (Texas) 
 and sweet-scented grape ; by French immigrants termed 
 Vigne des battures. The leaves have unequally incised teeth, 
 are three- to five-lobed ; the lobes and teeth are pointed ; their 
 under face, stalks, nerves, and margins are downy; bunch 
 and grapes are similar to those of the genuine variety, but 
 more acid to the taste. The juice is blood-red, and becomes 
 soft in taste after having been frozen. The grape contains 
 
730 THE WILD OR INDIGENOUS [chap. 
 
 only one kernel. It blossoms in May. The flowers have the 
 odour of mignonette. The odoratisshna variety is nothing 
 else but the sterile male plant. The numbers of its flowers 
 are astonishing. It grows on the banks of rivers, frequently 
 creeping over rocks, shrubs, and trees. 
 
 7. Vitis rotundifolia (Michaux). — The Americans term it 
 Bullace, Bullet-grape, Scuppernong, Southern fox-grape; the 
 Texas people also call it Muscadine, which is bad and non- 
 significant. Its leaves are small, of a shape somewhat between 
 a kidney and a heart, smooth on both sides ; its bunches are 
 small ; the berries have a great odour, and a purple, some- 
 times amber colour, a hard skin, and an agreeable taste. 
 There is a small form of this vine which grows in sandy soil 
 lying on the ground, with an acid fruit, in Florida termed Mus- 
 tang-grape. The main variety is an elegant creeper, with a 
 thin whitish bark, which rises to the top of the highest trees. 
 The surface of the leaves is more shining than the lower one. 
 It grows in marshes and on the banks of rivers in Virginia, 
 Florida, Texas, and North Mexico. It has been cultivated 
 a long time under the name of Scuppernong, as an eating 
 grape and for making wine. In the States named, it takes 
 the place which the Catawba holds in the North. To the 
 north of the Potomac it remains sterile, and is frequently 
 destroyed by the frost. It blossoms at the end of April ; 
 its large berries are delicious ; the bunch is small. 
 
 Third Section. — The shoots are erect or decumbent. 
 
 8. Vitis rupestris (Scheele). — Commonly termed mountain- 
 grape. This plant has a short smooth stem, three to four feet 
 long, and short branches ; its leaves are heart-kidney shaped, 
 largely toothed, mostly tri-lobed, smooth on both sides ; only 
 the nerves of the young leaves are downy ; the fruit-stalks are 
 nearly simple, thin, and erect ; the berries are small and 
 purple-black. They ripen early, and have an agreeable taste. 
 The plant grows in chalky soil on the banks of rivers in Texas 
 and Arkansas. 
 
 9. Vitis monticola (Buckley). — The branches are from three 
 to five feet long, and hanging down. Leaves heart-shaped, 
 
XXVI.] VINES OF NORTH AMERICA. 731 
 
 with a deep narrow stalk-bay ; their teeth broad ; surfaces 
 rather smooth ; the shoots, stalks, and nerves of leaves are 
 flaky and felted ; the bunches are compound and strong, equal 
 in length to the leaves, with large, closely grown, white or 
 amber-coloured berries. This grape has the most agreeable 
 taste of all American vines. It grows in Texas and to the 
 north of it. 
 
 10. Vitis Linceciimii (Buckley). — The Texans term it post- 
 oak grape, or pine-wood grape. Its branches are mostly 
 hanging, four to five feet long, rarely climbing ; the leaves 
 are large, of a broad heart shape, with large teeth, and five 
 lobes, the lobes obtuse, separated by deep sinuses, their 
 surface webbed and hairy, their lower face felted ; bunches 
 compound, with great purple-black, sometimes amber-coloured 
 berries. The berries have an agreeable odour and ripen in 
 August. It grows in Texas, Western Louisiana, and Arkansas. 
 It was hitherto mistaken for a variety of V. Labrusca. Buckley 
 diagnosed its peculiarity, and gave it its surname in honour of 
 the Texan doctor Lincecum. Its felt is of a reddish-yellow 
 colour ; its bunch is large, but shorter than the very large 
 leaves. The vine is termed post-oak grape, because it grows 
 by preference in the sandy soil of the Texan post-oak forests 
 (Quercus obtusiloba, Mich.). 
 
 Durand includes the species of Cissiis amongst the Vites, 
 terming the above " true vines ;" the Cissi, " Pseudo-vites." 
 We prefer to allot the name Cissus to the varieties of indivisa, 
 incisa, acida, arborea, and qidnqtiefolia. The last variety (the 
 hedera, or Ampelopsis quinquefolid) is the Virginia creeper, 
 ■ known as an ornamental plant, with an autumnal change of 
 its leaves to a red colour, in all gardens of Europe. 
 
 CULTIVATION OF THE VINE IN AMERICA. 
 
 The Americans prefer chalky marl soil, if possible mixed with 
 gravel, and undulating hilly territory with southern exposure 
 for the cultivation of the vine. Sandy soils they find pre- 
 dispose the grapes less to rot, but their wines are wanting in 
 sugar and richness. All trees are removed from the vineyard 
 and a belt of 100 feet around it. The soil is grubbed by 
 
732 VINES CULTIVATED [chap. 
 
 means of the mattock and drained. As the American vines 
 have distant nodes and a greatly developed foliage, they can- 
 not be planted so near as European vines ; 3 feet by 6 on 
 slopes, and 4 feet by 7 on plains, is the usual distance. Plan- 
 tations are mostly effected by blind canes, rooted plants not 
 being favoured. The soil is dug round with the mattock, here 
 called " German hoe." In the spring next after planting, the 
 young vine is cut down to one eye, and protected by a stake 
 of acacia wood. In the second spring the vine gets two or 
 three eyes ; in the third, four or five eyes are left distributed 
 on two spurs, which are trained to canes. In the fourth year 
 the vine is cut for bearing. The strongest cane is left with 
 six to eight eyes and fixed in an arc to the stake, or tied to 
 the next stake. The bow is not allowed to retain more than 
 ten, or if it be strong, fifteen grapes. All the new shoots of 
 the bow are broken off one node above the last grape ; all 
 barren branches are removed entirely. This mode of cutting 
 is repeated every year. The spur shoots the new canes, of 
 which one gives the bearing cane, the other the spur ; while 
 the bow is not permitted to grow long wood, and in spring is 
 entirely cut off. 
 
 VARIETIES OF VINES CULTIVATED IN NORTH AMERICA.^ 
 
 I. The Catawba was discovered in 1802, in Buncombe 
 County, North Carolina, under 35" 30' N. latitude, in poor 
 gravelly soil, and first made known in America as a wine- 
 producing vine by Major Adlum, who claimed to have done a 
 greater service to his country by his discovery than if he had 
 extinguished the national debt. The Catawba is found wild 
 along the Arkansas river, and is cultivated towards the north to 
 the 42° of latitude. It forms nineteen-twentieths of the vines 
 in the vineyards of the State of Ohio. It is without a rival 
 in the production of American wine. M. Longworth of Cin- 
 cinnati offered a prize of 500 dollars for the discovery of a 
 better variety, but the prize has not been taken. The Catawba 
 wine is good and dry, it can be made effervescent, and is 
 
 ^' Durand, Bullet. d'Acclimalat., t. ix., Avril 1SO2. 
 
XXVI.] IN NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 733 
 
 naturally either colourless, or straw-yellow, or of a rose colour, 
 according to age and treatment of the grape. When the 
 grapes are well ripe, it is not necessary to add sugar to the 
 must. Longfellow wrote an enthusiastic poem in praise of 
 Catawba wine. According to Durand, the Catawba is a 
 variety produced by cultivation from the fox-grape or 
 Northern fox-grape {V. Labritsca, L.) indigenous to America. 
 
 2. The Cape grape, also termed Alexander or Schuylkill 
 Muscadel, is indigenous to the environs of Philadelphia, 
 Pennsylvania. It was formerly as extensively cultivated 
 as the Catawba/^ but as its must always requires an 
 addition of sugar, it is being more and more abandoned 
 by cultivators. 
 
 3. The Isabella, although stated by botanists to be a variety 
 of V. Labriisca, is indigenous to South Carolina. It grows 
 better in the north than in the middle States. Thus in Ohio 
 it is frequently injured in its young wood by frosts, while on 
 the shores of Lake Erie and in the neighbourhood of New 
 York it bears amply and ripens well, and is therefore em- 
 ployed for cultivation on a large scale, particularly for eating, 
 not for wine-making. If used for wine, from eighteen to 
 twenty-four ounces of sugar have to be added to the gallon of 
 must. It gives a wine which resembles light Madeira. Its 
 grapes are subject to become mildewed, but not so easily 
 rotten. 
 
 4. Bland's Madeira. The grape is delicious for eating, but 
 the vine is not sufficiently hardy to be cultivated in Ohio. 
 
 5. Ohio or cigar box. Yields a handsome, black, soft, 
 melting grape with small berries. It must be cut very long, 
 and cannot easily be cultivated on a large scale. Its wine is 
 dark red and has little perfume when young, but improves 
 by age. 
 
 6. Lenoir. This vine yields a sweet and nicely flavoured, 
 melting, black-berried grape. It is subject to mildew and rot 
 particularly when it stands in clayey soil. 
 
 7. Missouri. Berry black, melting, soft, and agreeable. It 
 is planted in vineyards because it yields an excellent wine, 
 which has some feeble* resemblance to Madeira. 
 
734 VINES FOREIGN TO AMERICA. [cHAP. 
 
 8. Norton's Seedling. Berry purple, small, soft, but not 
 melting. Gives wine of inferior quality. 
 
 9. Herbemont's Madeira. Good grape for eating, with 
 small black berries, melting. Good wine of a rosy or light 
 red colour, reminding of the taste of Manzanilla of Spain. 
 
 10. Minor's Seedling. A new grape, which may perhaps 
 do well for mixing with other grapes to make wine, as its 
 taste is highly muscat and otherwise high, too strong for 
 being used undiluted. It is robust and not subject to rot ; its 
 berry is large and very juicy. 
 
 1 1. White Catawba. This is a white variety of No. I, but 
 much inferior to though derived from it. Its berries are large 
 and juicy. No attempts have yet been made to produce wine 
 from it. 
 
 1 2. Mammoth Catawba. This derivate preserves the colour 
 of the original Catawba, less its taste. Its berry is very large 
 and juicy, but has a tendency to detach itself from the stalk 
 before being ripe. 
 
 13. The Scuppernong is a vine of southern origin, and can 
 hardly be cultivated north of the 35" of latitude. 
 
 CULTIVATION OF VINES FOREIGN TO AMERICA. 
 
 Longworth has studied them for more than thirty years, 
 as well as regards their qualities for wine-making as for 
 eating. He cultivated numerous varieties from Paris, Bor- 
 deaux, and 6,000 plants from Madeira. After some years he 
 was obliged to tear them out, as not one of them returned the 
 expenses of its cultivation. It is therefore probable that the 
 Americans may have to rely entirely upon their own indi- 
 genous varieties of vines for producing, by crossing, grafting, 
 and seedling, such plants as will yield wine. The Catawba 
 is derived from the fox-grape {V. Labrnscd), as probably all 
 varieties which are confined to special districts in Europe are 
 derived from wild varieties which grew originally in those 
 districts. Even the vines indigenous to America have no 
 great duration in regular vineyards, being exhausted in from 
 fifteen to twenty-seven years. 
 
XXVI.] STATISTICAL NOTES. 
 
 735 
 
 VINIFICATION IN THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 The machinery is very perfect. For all white and liqueur- 
 like wines the grapes are collected in a very advanced state of 
 maturity. The berries are separated from the stalks by means 
 of metal sieves. 
 
 Vats or very large casks appear 'not to be known or used. 
 The must is immediately run into small barrels, allowed to 
 ferment, and racked a first time in February or March. The 
 treatment in the casks offers no peculiarities, but is a great 
 deal easier than that which is required in Europe : for the 
 American wines have little or no tendency to acetous or 
 viscous fermentation. A second fermentation takes place in 
 the first summer of the wine, subsequently to which it clears 
 up and becomes, after racking, a saleable article. 
 
 Catawba wine, three years old, quite pure, contains from 
 lo to II -OS per cent, of alcohol. Red Cape contains 8-5 to 
 9' 1 2 per cent. 
 
 STATISTICAL NOTES ON THE PRODUCTION OF WINE IN 
 NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 The vineyards in the United States are mostly cultivated by 
 Germans from the Rhine countries. They farm from ten to 
 twenty acres from the proprietors, and pay half the vintage as 
 their annual rent. 
 
 A vineyard of six acres, containing 14,400 vines, costs, from 
 the beginning of the grubbing to the end of the second year 
 after planting, 300 dols. per acre, purchase money included. 
 (Buchanan.) A vineyard of a M. Resor's, of about an acre in 
 extent, planted with vines at distances of 3' by 6', contained 
 in 1837, when it commenced to bear, 1,75 5 vines, being 
 Isabella, Cape, and Catawba. In 1841 the Isabellas had been 
 removed, and the vineyard then contained 2,300 vines, half 
 Catawba, half Cape. During the time from 1837 to 1845, the 
 vintages in this vineyard were all between the Sth and the 
 20th of September. In these nine years there were obtained 
 
 wine — 
 
 From the Catawba . , . 1,640 gallons, 
 Cape . . . 2,680 „ 
 
 Total 4,320 gallons, 
 
736 ACREAGE UNDER VITICULTURE. [CHAP. 
 
 or 480 gallons of wine per acre per year on an average. 
 During all this time the vineyard had received no manure, 
 but had been cultivated with the mattock and kept very 
 clean. The 4,320 gallons of wine sold at 75 cents the 
 gallon. 
 
 The making of the wine, collecting of grapes, pressing and 
 barrelling, costs from 25 dols. to 30 dols. per acre. The acre 
 when planted at distances of 3' by 6' contains 2,420 vines, 
 and in bad years gives 200 gallons of wine ; in good years 
 the vintage may yield 400, but the average of ten years 
 should not be put higher than 250 gallons. Buchanan 
 calculates as follows the cost and annual return of an acre 
 of vineyard in Cincinnati county : — 
 
 Annual interest of value of ground, estimated at 250 dols. . . 15 dols. 
 Annual cultivation . . . . . . . . . 60 ,, 
 
 Making of wine, annually ... » . 25 , , 
 
 Total expense 100 dols. 
 
 Sale of 200 gallons of vidne at i dol. per gallon . . 200 dols. 
 
 Aimual net profit per acre .... . loo dols. 
 
 Of course, if the gallon of wine fetches only 75 cents, the 
 profit per acre sinks to 50 dols. 
 
 EXTENT OF TRADE IN SPARKLING CATAWBA. 
 The trade in American wines is already considerable. Long- 
 worth has a capital of 100,000/. engaged in his various under- 
 takings. In 1850 he prepared 60,000 bottles of sparkling 
 Catawba; in 1851,75,000; and in 1852, 100,000; and other 
 houses produced 10, 20, 30, 60, 80 thousand bottles of spark- 
 ling and still Catawba. 
 
 ACREAGE UNDER VITICULTURE. 
 
 In a circle of twenty miles round Cincinnati there were a 
 few years ago 1,200 acres of vineyards, which had cost, inde- 
 pendently of the purchase of the soil, 200 dols. per acre, or 
 together 240,000 dols. They produced about 200 gallons per 
 acre, or, in the year, altogether 240,000 gallons of wine. 
 
 Next to Cincinnati the most important vineyards are in 
 
XXVL] GOOD AND BAD VINTAGES. 
 
 737 
 
 Ohio, Missouri, Indiana, Western Virginia, the State of New 
 York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Carolina. Brocton, a 
 place fifty miles westward of Buffalo, upon the border of Lake 
 Erie, has long been known for its superior wines and grapes. 
 The cultivation of the latter has lately been extended there 
 by a religious sect of communist separatists, of whom 
 Laurence Oliphant (late British Ambassador in Japan) and 
 a Mr. Harris are prominent members. A property of i,6oo 
 acres is almost exclusively used for grape growing. The 
 wines of California are making more rapid progress than those 
 of Eastern America. The growths of Aliso and Angelico have 
 already obtained some reputation. The firm of Sausserain 
 and Co. produced in 1858 : 9,400 gallons of white and 4,000 
 gallons red Aliso, 9,000 gallons Angelico, and 1,000 gallons of 
 brandy ; in all 23,400 gallons. The entire district of Angelos 
 produced in the same year about 200,000 gallons of various 
 wines. Some of the producers commit the mistake into which 
 some Austrians have fallen, that of giving to their products 
 classical names such as Steinberg, Porto, Champagne. They 
 will do much better to retain their proper names and establish 
 a reputation for original quality. A German company with 
 considerable capital have established themselves near Angelos, 
 and in a few years planted large districts with millions of 
 vines. They have already shipped some of their product to 
 Hamburg, and more is expected to arrive. 
 
 YEARS OF GOOD AND BAD VINTAGES IN NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 1852. There were strong frosts ; the grapes rotted ; the 
 district of Cincinnati scarcely obtained 100 gallons per acre. 
 
 1853. Yielded 650 gallons per acre, and in well-cultivated 
 vineyards up to 800 and 900 gallons. Was the best year 
 since 1848. 
 
 3 B 
 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 THE WINES OF AUSTRALIA. 
 
 Historical note. — Peculiarities of Australian climate. — Densities of Australian 
 must. — Viticulture in New South Wales. — Hunter River Vineyard Association. 
 — Viticulture in South Australia. — Sale of the wines ; shipments to Melbourne. 
 — Australian Wine Company. — Viticulture in Victoria. — Description of Aus- 
 tralian wines. — Importations of i860 compared with those of 1870. — Progress. 
 — Conclusion. 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTE. 
 
 The founder of viticulture in Australia is an early colonist 
 of New South Wales of the name of Busby. After having, 
 up to 1830, been much engaged in furthering viticulture and 
 the production of wine, and having distributed upwards of 
 20,000 vine-cuttings to fifty other settlers, he in 1831 under- 
 took a journey to the vineyards of France and Spain in order 
 to ascertain to what peculiarities of climate, soil, or culture, 
 the most celebrated wine provinces are indebted for the excel- 
 lence of their respective products, and to make a collection 
 of the varieties of vines cultivated in each. He obtained cut- 
 tings from the collection of vines in the Botanical Gardens 
 at Montpellier, counting 437 varieties. To these he subse- 
 quently added 137 from the Chaptal collection in the Jardin 
 du Luxembourg at Paris, so that he had 574 varieties, of 
 cuttings at his disposal. Independently of these cuttings, he 
 secured a competent quantity of all the most valuable varieties 
 of vines which he found cultivated in the best wine districts of 
 France and Spain, both for wine and raisins. He took all 
 varieties he could obtain, as he feared that the best kinds 
 
CHAP, xxvn.] AUSTRALIAN CLIMATE. 739 
 
 of France and Spain might prove (and he asserted, in 1832, 
 that several had already proved) of no value in New South 
 Wales, while, on the other hand, indifferent kinds might 
 produce in that climate valuable wines. He proposed to the 
 then principal Secretary of State for the Colonies, that all 
 these vines should be planted in an experimental garden at 
 Sydney, to be established on vacant ground adjoining the 
 Government garden, and under the direction of its superin- 
 tendent. The desired accommodation was immediately 
 granted, and the vines were sent to Australia by convict 
 ships. Some twenty varieties from Northern Burgundy, 
 Champagne, and Paris failed ; but all the rest, about 550 in 
 number, succeeded admirably. The names of all the varieties 
 transported to Australia, Busby has recorded in the Journal 
 of his travels. 
 
 Some other of the earliest vine-growers of Australia who 
 deserve special notice, are Mr. James Macarthur and Mr. 
 Patrick Auld. It is said that most of the present wine- 
 growers in that colony are gentlemen of property, who are 
 desirous rather of producing fine and creditable wines, than 
 of obtaining large or immediate profits. Many, it is said, 
 cultivate the art rather as an interesting scientific experi- 
 ment, or with the view of making presents to their friends. 
 The effect of this interest taken in the subject by a few 
 respectable growers must be to establish the character of the 
 wines, and to render their production a permanent and remu- 
 nerative interest. 
 
 PECULIARITIES OF THE AUSTRALIAN CLIMATE. 
 The climate of South Australia is so warm that in most of 
 its parts which are not elevated too high above the level of 
 the sea, frost and snow but rarely or never occur. • In some 
 of its most favoured parts the orange-tree grows in the open 
 air, and is cultivated, like the vine, for profitable production. 
 The vine, therefore, does not often fail for lack of the ne- 
 cessary quantity and maximum of temperature. But the 
 drawbacks of the Australian climate are the severe droughts 
 and heavy rains to which it is alternately exposed, and which 
 
 3 B 2 
 
74° 
 
 VITICULTURE IN NEW SOUTH WALES, [chap. 
 
 are as often destructive to the grapes as they are to other 
 crops. The grapes begin to ripen about December, and then 
 require some rain to attain their full development. Such 
 rains the cultivators term vintage rains. When the rains fall 
 upon the almost perfected grapes early in February, they are 
 very detrimental. The grapes swell suddenly and burst, and 
 lose their juice, or they begin to rot, and are quickly destroyed. 
 Thus, in February i860, the vintage at an estate called 
 Camden Park, was totally ruined. The first heavy rain com- 
 pletely spoiled the lower part of the vineyard by floods, and 
 a large portion of the grapes on the upper part of the vineyard 
 burst, and the whole became rotten. In consequence, not a 
 single gallon of wine was obtained. The effect of these rains 
 upon the grapes is also well shown in the report of the 
 Hunter River Association, which we have already printed 
 on p. 642. 
 
 VITICULTURE IN NEW SOUTH WALES. 
 
 Since 1855 the larger portion of Australian wine has been 
 produced in the Hunter River districts. There is a society in 
 active operation, the Hunter River Vineyard Association, and 
 the latest reports given at their annual meetings were satis- 
 factory. Some wine-growers on the Hunter River state they 
 obtain 300 gallons per acre. 
 
 The vintages of 1859 and 1860 were distributed over the 
 four largest counties of the Hunter River district as 
 follows : — 
 
 Counties. 
 
 1859. 
 
 l86o. 
 
 Durham 
 
 Hunter 
 
 Northumberland 
 
 Gloucester 
 
 Total .... 
 
 Gallons. 
 
 10,925 
 2,850 
 4,326 
 
 5.194 
 
 Gallons. 
 34.374 
 
 2,345 
 '3,555 
 10, 140 
 
 23,295 
 
 60,414 
 
XXVII.] SOUTH AUSTRALIA, AND VICTORIA. 741 
 
 VITICULTURE IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA. 
 
 In 1859, South Australia produced 38,396 gallons of 
 wine; in i860, the Registrar-General gave 96,155 gallons as 
 the quantity produced in that year. Number of acres under 
 cultivation in 1858-59= 1179; in 1859-60= 1221 ; the number 
 of acres include vineyards for growing eating grapes : only 584 
 acres were cultivated for wine. The average yield of an acre 
 of vineyard is thus shown to be 164 gallons. 
 
 We are, however, informed that these official data are much 
 below reality, and that in the district near Adelaide the 
 following number of acres produced the stated quantities of 
 wine in the years 
 
 1857. 1,0564 acres of vineyard gave 100,624 gallons of wine. 
 
 1858. 1,626 ,, ,, 140,970 „ 
 
 1859. 2,201 „ ,, 180,324 
 
 1868. „ „ 900,000 ,, 
 
 In this district the Auldana vineyards are situated, of which 
 some very fine products are now sold in London. 
 
 Sale of the Wines. — The greater portion of the wines of 
 South Australia is consumed in the neighbourhoods where it 
 is grown. It is sold in the vineyards at from two shillings to 
 five shillings per gallon, and is the almost exclusive beverage 
 of the labouring people. The town populations, such as that 
 of Maitland, do not appreciate or drink these wines. Sydney 
 consumes some Camden wine, especially during hot weather. 
 Shipments to the adjoining colony of Melbourne are carried 
 out by the agency of the Australian Wine Company. They 
 sold, in i860, more than 3,000 dozen of the Irrawang and 
 Kaludah wines. 
 
 VITICULTURE IN VICTORIA. 
 
 The colony of Victoria, with the capital Melbourne, was 
 separated from New South Wales, capital Sydney, in 185 1. 
 All data concerning New South Wales, coming from a time 
 before 185 1, therefore include Victoria ; all later ones may be 
 considered to exclude it. It appears from the Statistical 
 Register of Victoria, 1854, p. 363, and the Exhibition Cata- 
 
742 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 [chap. 
 
 logue, 1 86 1, p. 59, that viticulture in that colony had pro- 
 gressed as follows : — 
 
 
 
 Acres. 
 
 Produce. 
 
 Year ending 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Wine. 
 
 Brandy. 
 
 Eating Grapes. 
 
 
 
 Gallons. 
 
 Gallons. 
 
 Cwts. 
 
 31st March, 1849 . . 
 
 108 
 
 6,306 
 
 lOO 
 
 — 
 
 i8qo . . 
 
 
 no 
 
 returns. 
 
 
 
 1851 . . 
 
 1614 
 
 4,621 
 
 286 
 
 — 
 
 
 , 1852 . . 
 
 1734 
 
 6,447 
 
 450 
 
 — 
 
 
 1853 . . 
 
 I07i 
 
 4,500 
 
 500 
 
 — 
 
 
 1854— 1858 
 
 
 no 
 
 returns. 
 
 
 
 1859 . • 
 
 547 
 
 7,740 
 
 — 
 
 — 
 
 
 i860 . . 
 
 1. 133 
 
 11,643 
 
 260 
 
 8,000 
 
 
 1867, 1868 
 
 
 400,000 
 
 
 
 At the Exhibition of Victoria in 1861, fifty-seven different 
 wines out of a total (number not stated, but probably reaching 
 100) exhibited, were placed by the jurors : five received first, 
 twenty-six second-class certificates, and twenty-six others 
 honourable mentions. The maximum number to be given to 
 the best wine was fixed by the jurors at twenty, and no wine 
 was placed which did not receive at least five numbers. No 
 description of characteristics — except the names of the vines, 
 colour of the wine, and, in about half the number, the year of 
 growth — is given. (OfScial Catalogue, 1861, p. 282.) 
 
 We have no information regarding the manner in which the 
 vines are trained in this or any other part of Australia. Many 
 vineyards are ploughed or dug round but once a year, as 
 labour is so very dear. In consequence they are filled with 
 weeds, and the grapes are literally smothered by them. This 
 explains much of the character of these wines ; and the fact 
 that vintagers here and in Adelaide sometimes receive ten 
 shillings a day as wages, exhibits some of the financial diffi- 
 culties of viticulture in this splendid country. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF AUSTRALIAN WINES. 
 
 Products from a new country must be judged not only 
 absolutely by reference to established standards, but also 
 relatively with reference to their capability for improvement 
 
XXVII.] AUSTRALIAN WINES. 
 
 743 
 
 if faulty or imperfect. By applying this process to Australian 
 wines, we have come to the result, that many good qualities 
 have already been obtained ; that, if the processes of vinifica- 
 tion were better, these qualities would be greatly enhanced ; 
 that many wines, evidently made from excellent grapes, are 
 spoiled by faulty preparation, or by want of proper nursing. 
 To prove these points a little more in detail, \ye extract from 
 a publication on wines by Toovey, a few notes on Australian 
 wines sent to England in i860, and add thereto such other 
 data on wines imported about ten years later as we have been 
 able personally to obtain. 
 
 1. Verdeilho. Vintage 1857. Colour, partridge eye; taste, aromatic and 
 nutty. Full body, contained 29-4 per cent, proof spirit ; consequently was bran- 
 died. If this wine was made from the grape whose name it bears, it shows that 
 the maker was unacquainted with the art of making red wine. 
 
 2. Frontignac. A thin, white wine, possessing a slight flavour of the muscat 
 grape, being a fictitious elder-flower flavour. Alcohol = 29 '4 per cent, proof 
 spirit. 
 
 3. White wine of 1857. Agreeable, light, flavour of raspberries, which had 
 probably been put into the must. Contained 26 per cent, proof spirit. 
 
 4. Malbec, Described as being made from " claret " grape. Similar to conti- 
 nental "claret." Stated to be 1857, but was probably of 1859. Had the character 
 of Hungarian wine, and contained 23 per cent, proof spirit. It was damaged. 
 
 5. Tavoora. Described as a pure "port" wine of 1859; of which species a 
 very large quantity was under cultivation in i860. The grower, Mr. Patrick Auld, 
 hoped that this wine would ultimately become one of their largest items of export. 
 It contained 27 "2 per cent, of proof spirit, and was therefore alcoholized. 
 
 6. Red Wine. Was out of condition, and contained 33 per cent, of proof 
 spirit. 
 
 In 1870 we obtained the following wines from reliable 
 sources : — 
 
 7. Tintara. A red wine, clear, with no ' particular character or flavour, some- 
 what brandied. Vines half Mataro, with Grenaches and others. 
 
 8. Adelaide. White, 6oj-. per dozen. An exquisitely pure white wine, mainly 
 from Riessling grapes. But there are other strong-flavoured grapes admixed, 
 which make a, complicated but very fine and peculiar bouquet. Smipfon of mus- 
 catel ; a little too fiery for greatness, though stated not to have been alcoholized. 
 Equal to European wines of the second class. Would be better if the suspicion of 
 muscatel could be left out. 
 
 9. Adelaide. White, SOj. per dozen. Wine of the same general character as the 
 former, but less fine ; a kind of "milieu" to the "tete," No. 8. 
 
 10. Adelaide. White, 42J. per dozen. The "queue" to the previous two 
 wines ; all the same qualities, but in lesser intensity. 
 
 11. Adelaide. White, 36.;. per dozen. 
 
744 CONCLUSION. [chap. 
 
 12. Adelaide. White, 30J. per dozen. These wines have also the general 
 character of Nos. 8, 9, and 10, but they are somewhat spoiled during vinification 
 or transport, so as to have contracted a mousy taste, a flavour of volatile acidity, 
 and the faculty of becoming darker on exposure to air. These faults could be 
 easily remedied, and then the five qualities would stand, as to price, in propor- 
 tion to each other and their relative value. But, compared to the absolute price 
 of equivalent French and German wines, all five qualities are yet somewhat 
 too dear. 
 
 13. Wattlesville. White, 24r. per dozen. An acidulous wine, of no particular 
 quality. 
 
 14. Adelaide. Red, 48^-. per dozen. This wine is full of vinosity, body, and of 
 a peculiar mild flavour. It is somewhat too hot, though stated not to contain 
 adventitious brandy. It is in its way equal to burgundies of the same price, third 
 class ; but resembles more the finer qualities of Hermitage, third class. 
 
 15. Adelaide. Red, 42.^. per dozen. Similar to No. 14, but less fine; also a 
 valuable wine, free from fault. 
 
 16. Adelaide. Red, 36J. per dozen. 
 
 17. Adelaide. Red, 30J. per dozen. These wines are similar in general character 
 to Nos. 14 and 15, but have faults such as mouse taste and acidity. 
 
 18. Australian. Place of growth unknown ; 24^-. per dozen ; brownish unfa- 
 vourable colour ; not worth its price. 
 
 19. Adelaide. At i8j. per dozen. 
 
 20. Wattlesville. At \%s. per dozen. These wines are mousy, contain vinegar, 
 and are naturally acid and unfavourably coloured. 
 
 21. Sweet liqueur ivine. Sold in pints at 35J. per dozen. Feeble muscat flavour, 
 pure, free from faults, but somewhat too acid. 
 
 In addition to these wines, of which Nos. 8 to 21 are imported by an active firm, 
 we have tasted the wines of another importing house, as follows : — Muscatel, at 
 ■2.0s. , a thin wine, elder-flavoured ; Tokay, 36J. ; Chasselas, dps. ; Monalta claret, 
 i8j. This house also imported formerly wines made from the Pedro Ximenes, 
 Riessling, Shiraz, and Black Portugal grapes, and bearing these names ; and 
 others coming from the vineyards of Argaston, Bellvester, Buschefelde, Clarendon, 
 Evanston, Glen Ewin, Highercombe, Inkermann, Morialta, Para-Para, Payneham, 
 Pewsey Vale, Torrens Park, Seppefield, Tanunda, and others. But the inquiry 
 and sale were so small that, after the first consignments were exhausted, no further 
 importations took place. To many of these wines, which had been carelessly 
 shipped, brandy had to be added after their arrival in England. 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 From the foregoing we have no doubt that the best and 
 better qualities of Australian wines will be able to obtain and 
 hold a mercantile position by the side of the second and third 
 classes of European growths. The medium and low qualities 
 of these wines, however, are too faulty to be considered as 
 probable mercantile objects, even if their prices were reduced 
 to about one-half of those at present quoted. The Australian 
 
xxvii.] CONCLUSION. 74S 
 
 viticulturists should continue to find the most suitable situa- 
 tions, and the vines most advantageous for them. In view of 
 the dearth of human labour they should so arrange their vine- 
 yards as to admit of their being cultivated with the plough. 
 They should particularly care to keep their vineyards free 
 from weeds, as these, even in warm climates, do not permit the 
 grapes to attain perfect maturity or coloration, and stunt 
 their development. The vines should be kept low and me- 
 thodically pruned, and be broken back after the blossom. 
 The proprietors should adhere to the practice of making wine 
 from pure sets of grapes, and avoid mixing heterogeneous fruit 
 together. They should carefully study and arrange all details 
 of vinification, with a view of producing pure, natural, un- 
 brandied wines, capable of lasting, and of being transported 
 to any country and climate, a problem which, in these days of 
 scientific progress, is easy of solution. They should notice of 
 each vintage-wine the following points of character : the place 
 and year in which it is made ; the vines from which it is 
 produced ; if made from a mixed set, the proportion in which 
 each variety is present in the whole. With such data wines 
 become more valuable, because their probable development 
 jcan be predicted, and consequently guided to a useful purpose. 
 Indeed, if this enterprising branch of the Anglo-Saxon race 
 were to establish large companies for the purpose of planting 
 and purchasing vineyards, of buying grapes and manufacturing 
 wine in a scientific manner, of buying sound young wines from 
 single growers, and maturing them for sale, they might attain 
 successes equal to the best of their achievements in gold, wool, 
 or banking. 
 
ALCOHOL OR SPIRIT TABLES. 
 
 TABLE I. 
 
 Showing percentages of absolute alcohol by weight and by volume, and 
 percentages of proof spirit contained in mixtures of alcohol and -water, 
 at all specific gravities with four decimals, water being I ' down to '9652, 
 at a temperature of ly^. 
 i. 2. 3. 4. I. 2. 3. 4. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity at 
 
 15-5 c. 
 
 Absolute 
 
 Absolute 
 
 Per- 
 
 
 Specific 
 
 Absolute 
 
 Absolute 
 
 Per- 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 centage 
 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 centage 
 
 cent, by 
 
 cent, by 
 
 of proof 
 
 
 gravity a t 
 
 15-5 c. 
 
 cent, by 
 
 cent, by 
 
 of proof 
 
 weight. 
 
 volume. 
 
 spirit. 
 
 
 weight. 
 
 volume. 
 
 spirit. 
 
 fOOOO 
 
 000 
 
 000 
 
 000 
 
 
 
 
 ■9999 
 
 o'o5 
 
 o'o7 
 
 on 
 
 
 ■9959 
 
 2 '22 
 
 278 
 
 4-88 
 
 8 
 
 o-ii 
 
 013 
 
 0-24 
 
 
 8 
 
 2-28 
 
 2-86 
 
 5-01 
 
 7 
 
 o-i6 
 
 020 
 
 0-3S 
 
 
 7 
 
 2-34 
 
 2 '93 
 
 5'H 
 
 6 
 
 0-2I 
 
 0-27 
 
 o'46 
 
 
 6 
 
 239 
 
 3-00 
 
 5-25 
 
 5 
 
 0'26 
 
 0-33 
 
 0-57 
 
 
 5 
 
 2-45 
 
 3-07 
 
 5-39 
 
 4 
 
 0-32 
 
 040 
 
 071 
 
 
 4 
 
 2-51 
 
 3'i4 
 
 5-52 
 
 3 
 
 0-37 
 
 0-47 
 
 0-82 
 
 
 3 
 
 2-57 
 
 3-21 
 
 5-65 
 
 2 
 
 0'42 
 
 0-53 
 
 093 
 
 
 2 
 
 2-62 
 
 3-28 
 
 576 
 
 I 
 
 0-47 
 
 o'6o 
 
 1-04 
 
 
 I 
 
 2-68 
 
 3-36 
 
 5-89 
 
 
 
 0-53 
 
 0-67 
 
 117 
 
 
 
 
 274 
 
 3 '43 
 
 6 02 
 
 •9989 
 
 0-58 
 
 073 
 
 I 28 
 
 
 ■9949 
 
 279 
 
 3 "5° 
 
 6-13 
 
 8 
 
 0-64 
 
 o-8o 
 
 1-41 
 
 
 8 
 
 2-85 
 
 3'S7 
 
 6 26 
 
 7 
 
 0-69 
 
 0-86 
 
 1-52 
 
 
 7 
 
 2'9I 
 
 3-64 
 
 6-39 
 
 6 
 
 074 
 
 0-93 
 
 1-63 
 
 
 6 
 
 2-97 
 
 371 
 
 6-52 
 
 5 
 
 o-8o 
 
 I 'OO 
 
 176 
 
 
 5 
 
 3-02 
 
 378 
 
 663 
 
 4 
 
 0-85 
 
 1-07 
 
 1-87 
 
 
 4 
 
 3-08 
 
 3-86 
 
 676 
 
 3 
 
 091 
 
 I 13 
 
 2-OI 
 
 
 3 
 
 3'i4 
 
 3 '93 
 
 6-89 
 
 2 
 
 0-96 
 
 I -20 
 
 2'12 
 
 
 2 
 
 3-20 
 
 4-00 
 
 7-02 
 
 I 
 
 J -02 
 
 1-27 
 
 2 -25 
 
 
 I 
 
 3-26 
 
 4-07 
 
 7-i6 
 
 
 
 I '07 
 
 1-33 
 
 2-36 
 
 
 
 
 3 '32 
 
 4-14 
 
 729 
 
 ■9979 
 
 I'I2 
 
 I '40 
 
 2-47 
 
 
 ■9939 
 
 3-37 
 
 421 
 
 7-40 
 
 8 
 
 i-iS 
 
 '•47 
 
 2 -60 
 
 
 8 
 
 3 '43 
 
 4-28 
 
 7-.';3 
 
 7 
 
 1-23 
 
 I 53 
 
 271 
 
 
 7 
 
 3 '49 
 
 4'36 
 
 766 
 
 6 
 
 I '29 
 
 I -60 
 
 2-84 
 
 
 6 
 
 3-55 
 
 4-43 
 
 779 
 
 5 
 
 1-34 
 
 1-67 
 
 2-95 
 
 
 S 
 
 3 -61 
 
 4'50 
 
 7-92 
 
 4 
 
 I '40 
 
 173 
 
 3 -08 
 
 
 4 
 
 3-67 
 
 4-57 
 
 8 -OS 
 
 3 
 
 1-45 
 
 I -80 
 
 3-19 
 
 
 3 
 
 373 
 
 4-64 
 
 8-i8 
 
 2 
 
 rSi 
 
 1-86 
 
 3-32 
 
 
 2 
 
 378 
 
 471 
 
 8-29 
 
 I 
 
 I 56 
 
 1-93 
 
 3-43 
 
 
 I 
 
 3-84 
 
 478 
 
 8-42 
 
 
 
 I -61 
 
 2-0O 
 
 3 '54 
 
 
 
 
 3-90 
 
 4-86 
 
 8-55 
 
 •9969 
 
 1-67 
 
 2-07 
 
 3-68 
 
 
 ■9929 
 
 3-96 
 
 4'93 
 
 8-68 
 
 8 
 
 173 
 
 '■14 
 
 3-ai 
 
 
 8 
 
 4 '02 
 
 5'oo 
 
 8 -Si 
 
 7 
 
 178 
 
 2-21 
 
 3 '92 
 
 
 7 
 
 4-08 
 
 5-08 
 
 8-94 
 
 6 
 
 1-83 
 
 2-28 
 
 4'o3 
 
 
 6 
 
 4-14 
 
 5-15 
 
 9-07 
 
 5 
 
 1-89 
 
 2-36 
 
 4-16 
 
 
 5 
 
 4'20 
 
 5 '23 
 
 9-20 
 
 4 
 
 1-94 
 
 2-43 
 
 4-27 
 
 
 4 
 
 4-27 
 
 5-31 
 
 9 '36 
 
 3 
 
 1-99 
 
 2-50 
 
 4-38 
 
 
 3 
 
 4-33 
 
 5-38 
 
 9 '49 
 
 2 
 
 2-05 
 
 2-57 
 
 4-51 
 
 
 2 
 
 4 '39 
 
 5-46 
 
 9 ■62 
 
 I 
 
 2-II 
 
 2-64 
 
 4-64 
 
 
 I 
 
 4'4S 
 
 5-54 
 
 975 
 
 
 
 2-17 
 
 271 
 
 477 
 
 
 
 
 4-51 
 
 S-62 
 
 9-88 
 
ALCOHOL OR SPIRIT TABLES. 
 
 U7 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 ^ABLE I 
 
 — continued. 
 
 
 
 
 I. 
 
 2. 
 
 3- 
 
 4. I. 
 
 2. 
 
 3- 
 
 4- 
 
 Specific 
 
 Absolute 
 
 Absolute 
 
 Per- 
 
 
 Specific 
 
 Absolute 
 
 Absolute 
 
 Per- 
 
 ilcohol per alcohol perl 
 
 centage ■ 
 
 
 ilcohol per 
 
 ilcohol per 
 
 centage 
 
 gravity at 
 15-5 C. 
 
 cent by 
 
 cent, by 
 
 of proof 
 
 
 gravity at 
 
 15-5 c. 
 
 cent, by 
 
 cent, by 
 
 of proof 
 
 weight. 
 
 volume. 
 
 spirit. 
 
 
 weight. 
 
 volume. 
 
 spirit. 
 
 •9919 
 
 4-57 
 
 5-69 
 
 lO'OI 
 
 •9869 
 
 7-85 
 
 9-75 
 
 17-10 
 
 8 
 
 4-64 
 
 577 
 
 IOI6 
 
 
 8 
 
 7-92 
 
 9-83 
 
 17-26 
 
 7 
 
 470 
 
 5-85 
 
 1029 
 
 
 7 
 
 Z'5? 
 
 9-91 
 
 17-41 
 
 6 
 
 476 
 
 5 '92 
 
 10-42 
 
 
 6 
 
 8-06 
 
 10-00 
 
 17-56 
 
 S 
 
 4-82 
 
 6 00 
 
 io'55 
 
 
 5 
 
 8-13 
 
 10 -08 
 
 17-71 
 
 4 
 
 4-88 
 
 6'o8 
 
 10 -68 
 
 
 4 
 
 8-20 
 
 10-17 
 
 17-86 
 
 3 
 
 4 '94 
 
 615 
 
 io-8i 
 
 
 3 
 
 8-27 
 
 10-25 
 
 i8-oi 
 
 2 
 
 5-01 
 
 623 
 
 10 -96 
 
 
 2 
 
 8-34 
 
 10-33 
 
 18-16 
 
 I 
 
 S07 
 
 6-31 
 
 1 1 09 
 
 
 I 
 
 8-41 
 
 10-42 
 
 18-31 
 
 
 
 513 
 
 6-38 
 
 U-22 
 
 
 
 
 8-48 
 
 10-50 
 
 18-46 
 
 •9909 
 
 5-20 
 
 646 
 
 11-38 
 
 
 •9859 
 
 8-55 
 
 10-58 
 
 18-61 
 
 8 
 
 5-26 
 
 6-54 
 
 11-51 
 
 
 8 
 
 8-62 
 
 10-66 
 
 18-76 
 
 7 
 
 5 "32 
 
 662 
 
 11-64 
 
 
 7 
 
 8-70 
 
 10-75 
 
 18-93 
 
 6 
 
 5 "39 
 
 6-69 
 
 11-79 
 
 
 6 
 
 IV 
 
 10-83 
 
 19-08 
 
 5 
 
 5 '45 
 
 677 
 
 11-92 
 
 
 5 
 
 8-84 
 
 10-91 
 
 19-23 
 
 4 
 
 5-51 
 
 6-85 
 
 12-05 
 
 
 4 
 
 8-91 
 
 11-00 
 
 19-38 
 
 3 
 
 5-58 
 
 6 92 
 
 12-20 
 
 
 3 
 
 8-98 
 
 11-09 
 
 19-54 
 
 2 
 
 5-64 
 
 7-00 
 
 12-33 
 
 
 2 
 
 9-05 
 
 11-18 
 
 19-69 
 
 I 
 
 S70 
 
 7-08 
 
 12-46 
 
 
 I 
 
 9-12 
 
 11-27 
 
 19-84 
 
 
 
 577 
 
 7-17 
 
 12-61 
 
 
 
 
 9-20 
 
 11-36 
 
 20-01 
 
 •9899 
 
 5-83 
 
 7-25 
 
 12-74 
 
 
 •9849 
 
 9-27 
 
 11-45 
 
 20-16 
 
 8 
 
 5-89 
 
 7-33 
 
 12-87 
 
 
 8 
 
 9-34 
 
 11-55 
 
 20 3 1 
 
 7 
 
 5-96 
 
 7-42 
 
 13-02 
 
 
 7 
 
 9-41 
 
 11-64 
 
 20-46 
 
 6 
 
 6 -02 
 
 7 ■50 
 
 13-15 
 
 
 6 
 
 9-49 
 
 11-73 
 
 20-63 
 
 5 
 
 6-09 
 
 7-58 
 
 13 ^o 
 
 
 5 
 
 9-56 
 
 11-82 
 
 20-78 
 
 4 
 
 61S ■ 
 
 766 
 
 1 3 43 
 
 
 4 
 
 9-63 
 
 11 -91 
 
 20-93 
 
 3 
 
 6-22 
 
 775 
 
 13-59 
 
 
 3 
 
 9-70 
 
 12 00 
 
 21-08 
 
 2 
 
 6-29 
 
 7-83 
 
 1374 
 
 
 2 
 
 9-78 
 
 12-09 
 
 21-25 
 
 I 
 
 6-35 
 
 791 
 
 13-87 
 
 
 I 
 
 9-85 
 
 12-18 
 
 21-40 
 
 
 
 6-42 
 
 8-00 
 
 14-02 
 
 
 
 
 9-92 
 
 12-27 
 
 21-55 
 
 ■9889 
 
 649 
 
 8 -08 
 
 14-17 
 
 
 -9839 
 
 9-99 
 
 12-36 
 
 21-70 
 21-87 
 
 8 
 
 6-55 
 
 817 
 
 14-30 
 
 
 8 
 
 10-07 
 
 12-45 
 
 7 
 
 662 
 
 8-25 
 
 14-45 
 
 
 7 
 
 10-16 
 
 12-55 
 
 22-07 
 
 6 
 
 669 
 
 8-33 
 
 14-60 
 
 
 6 
 
 10-26 
 
 12-64 
 
 22-27 
 
 5 
 
 675 
 
 ■8-42 
 
 14-73 
 
 
 5 
 
 10-35 
 
 12-73 
 
 22-47 
 22-67 
 22-87 
 
 4 
 
 6-82 
 
 8-50 
 
 14-88 
 
 
 4 
 
 10-44 
 
 12-82 
 
 3 
 
 689 
 
 8-58 
 
 15-03 
 
 
 3 
 
 10-54 
 
 12-91 
 
 2 
 
 6-95 
 
 8-66 
 
 15-16 
 
 
 2 
 
 10-63 
 
 13-00 
 
 23-07 
 
 I 
 
 7-02 
 
 875 
 
 15-31 
 
 
 I 
 
 10-72 
 
 13-09 
 
 23-27 
 
 
 
 7-09 
 
 8-83 
 
 15-47 
 
 
 
 
 10-81 
 
 13-18 
 
 23-47 
 23-67 
 23-87 
 
 ■9879 
 
 7-i6 
 
 8-91 
 
 15-62 
 
 
 •9829 
 
 10-91 
 
 13-27 
 
 8 
 
 7 '23 
 
 9 00 
 
 1577 
 
 
 8 
 
 11-00 
 
 13-36 
 
 7 
 
 7 '3° 
 
 9-08 
 
 15-92 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 1 -08 
 
 13-45 
 
 24-04 
 
 6 
 
 7'37 
 
 9-17 
 
 1 6 07 
 
 
 6 
 
 11-15 
 
 13-55 
 
 24-20 
 
 5 
 
 7 '43 
 
 9 '25 
 
 16-20 
 
 
 5 
 
 11-23 
 
 13-64 
 
 24-36 
 
 4 
 3 
 2 
 
 7-50 
 7-57 
 7-64 
 
 9-33 
 9-42 
 
 9 '5° 
 
 16-35 
 16-50 
 16-65 
 
 
 4 
 3 
 2 
 
 1 1 -31 
 11-39 
 11-46 
 
 13-73 
 13-82 
 13-91 
 
 24-52 
 24-68 
 24-84 
 
 I 
 
 771 
 
 9-58 
 
 16-80 
 
 
 I 
 
 11-54 
 
 14-00 
 
 25-01 
 
 
 
 778 
 
 9-66 
 
 16-95 
 
 
 
 
 11-62 
 
 14-10 
 
 25-'7 
 
748 
 
 ALCOHOL OR SPIRIT TABLES. 
 
 TABLE I. — continued. 
 3- 4- I- 2- 
 
 Specific 
 gravity at 
 
 Absolute 
 
 ilcohol per 
 
 cent, by 
 
 Absolute 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 cent, "oy 
 
 Per- 
 centage 
 of proof 
 
 
 Specific 
 
 gravity at 
 
 15-5 C. 
 
 Absolute 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 cent, by 
 
 Absolute 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 cent, by 
 
 Per- 
 centage 
 of proof 
 
 155 C. 
 
 weight. 
 
 volume. 
 
 spirit. 
 
 
 weight. 
 
 volume. 
 
 spirit. 
 
 •9819 
 
 11-69 
 
 14-20 
 
 25-34 
 
 -9769 
 
 15-66 
 
 19-10 
 
 33-96 
 
 8 
 
 1 1 77 
 
 14-30 
 
 25-50 
 
 
 8 
 
 15-75 
 
 79-20 
 
 34-14 
 
 7 
 
 11-85 
 
 14-40 
 
 25-66 
 
 
 r 
 
 15-83 
 
 19-30 
 
 34-32 
 
 6 
 
 11-92 
 
 14-50 
 
 25-83 
 
 
 6 
 
 15-91 
 
 19-40 
 
 34-50 
 
 5 
 
 12-00 
 
 14-60 
 
 26-00 
 
 
 S 
 
 1600 
 
 19-50 
 
 34-66 
 
 4 
 
 12-08 
 
 14-70 
 
 2616 
 
 
 4 
 
 16-08 
 
 19-60 
 
 34-82 
 
 3 
 
 12-15 
 
 14-80 
 
 26-33 
 
 
 3 
 
 i6-i7 
 
 19-70 
 
 34-97 
 
 2 
 
 12-23 
 
 14-90 
 
 26-49 
 
 
 2 
 
 16-25 
 
 19-80 
 
 35-14 
 
 I 
 
 12-31 
 
 15-00 
 
 26-66 
 
 
 1 
 
 16-33 
 
 19-90 
 
 35-30 
 
 
 
 12-39 
 
 15-09 
 
 26-82 
 
 
 
 
 16-42 
 
 20 CO 
 
 35-46 
 
 •9809 
 
 12-46 
 
 15-18 
 
 26-98 
 
 
 •9759 
 
 '^SS 
 
 2010 
 
 35-62 
 
 8 
 
 12-54 
 
 15-27 
 
 27-15 
 
 
 8 
 
 16-58 
 
 20-20 
 
 35-77 
 
 7 
 
 12-62 
 
 15-36 
 
 27-31 
 
 
 7 
 
 16-66 
 
 20-30 
 
 35-95 
 
 6 
 
 12 69 
 
 15-45 
 
 27-48 
 
 
 6 
 
 '^15 
 
 20-40 
 
 361 1 
 
 5 
 
 12-77 
 
 15-55 
 
 27-64 
 
 
 5 
 
 16-83 
 
 20-50 
 
 3637 
 
 4 
 
 12-85 
 
 15-64 
 
 27-80 
 
 
 4 
 
 16-91 
 
 20-60 
 
 36-43 
 
 3 
 
 12-92 
 
 15-73 
 
 27-97 
 
 3 
 
 17-00 
 
 20-70 
 
 36-61 
 
 2 
 
 13-00 
 
 ■ 15-82 
 
 28-13 
 
 
 2 
 
 17-08 
 
 20 -So 
 
 36-78 
 
 I 
 
 13-08 
 
 15-91 
 
 28-29 
 
 
 1 
 
 17-17 
 
 20-90 
 
 36-96 
 
 
 
 i3"'5 
 
 16-00 
 
 28-46 
 
 
 
 
 17-25 
 
 21 00 
 
 37-13 
 
 ■9799 
 
 13-23 
 
 16-10 
 
 28-62 
 
 
 ■9749 
 
 17-33 
 
 2110 
 
 37-31 
 
 8 
 
 1331 
 
 16-20 
 
 28-79 
 
 
 8 
 
 17-42 
 
 21 20 
 
 37-48 
 
 7 
 
 1339 
 
 16-30 
 
 28-95 
 
 
 7 
 
 17-50 
 
 21-30 
 
 37-66 
 
 6 
 
 13-46 
 
 16-40 
 
 29-11 
 
 
 6 
 
 17-58 
 
 21-40 
 
 37-83 
 
 5 
 
 13 54 
 
 16-50 
 
 29-28 
 
 
 5 
 
 1766 
 
 21-50 
 
 38-01 
 
 4 
 
 13-62 
 
 1 6 60 
 
 29-44 
 
 4 
 
 17-75 
 
 21-60 
 
 3818 
 
 3 
 
 13-69 
 
 16-70 
 
 29-61 
 
 3 
 
 17-83 
 
 21-70 
 
 3836 
 
 2 
 
 1377 
 
 1680 
 
 29-77 
 
 1 2 
 
 17-91 
 
 21-80 
 
 3853 
 
 I 
 
 13-85 
 
 1 6 -go 
 
 2993 
 
 I 
 
 1800 
 
 21-90 
 
 3!'^ 
 
 
 
 13-92 
 
 17-00 
 
 30-10 
 
 1 ° 
 
 18-08 
 
 22 -oo 
 
 3887 
 
 •9789 
 
 14-00 
 
 17-10 
 
 30-26 
 
 •9739 
 
 1815 
 
 22-09 
 
 39-03 
 
 8 
 
 14-08 
 
 17-20 
 
 30-45 
 
 
 8 
 
 18-23 
 
 22-18 
 
 39-19 
 
 7 
 
 14-17 
 
 17-30 
 
 30-64 
 
 
 7 
 
 18-31 
 
 22 27 
 
 39-35 
 
 6 
 
 14-25 
 
 17-40 
 
 30-84 
 
 
 6 
 
 18-38 
 
 22-36 
 
 39-51 
 
 5 
 
 14-33 
 
 17-50 
 
 31-03 
 
 
 5 
 
 18-46 
 
 22-45 
 
 39-67 
 
 4 
 
 14-42 
 
 17-60 
 
 31 -22 
 
 
 4 
 
 18-54 
 
 22-54 
 
 3983 
 
 3 
 
 1450 
 
 17-70 
 
 31-41 
 
 
 3 
 
 18-62 
 
 22-64 
 
 40-00 
 
 2 
 
 14-38 
 
 17-80 
 
 31-60 
 
 2 
 
 18-69 
 
 22-73 
 
 40-16 
 
 I 
 
 14-66 
 
 17-90 
 
 31-79 
 
 
 1 
 
 18-77 
 
 22 82 
 
 40-32 
 
 
 
 14-75 
 
 1800 
 
 31 -99 
 
 
 
 
 18-85 
 
 22-91 
 
 40 48 
 
 •9779 
 
 14-83 
 
 18-10 
 
 32-18 
 
 
 •9729 
 
 18-92 
 
 23 00 
 
 40-64 
 
 8 
 
 14-91 
 
 18-20 
 
 32-38 
 
 
 8 
 
 19-00 
 
 23-10 
 
 40-81 
 
 7 
 
 15-00 
 
 18-30 
 
 32-56 
 
 
 7 
 
 19-08 
 
 23-20 
 
 40-98 
 
 6 
 
 15-08 
 
 i '!''^° 
 
 32-73 
 
 
 6 
 
 19-17 
 
 23-30 
 
 41 16 
 
 5 
 
 15-17 
 
 1 >8-5o 
 
 32-91 
 
 
 5 
 
 19-25 
 
 23-40 
 
 41-33 
 
 4 
 
 15-25 
 
 i i8-6o 
 
 33-08 
 
 
 4 
 
 19-33 
 
 23-50 
 
 41-51 
 
 3 
 
 15-33 
 
 18-70 
 
 33-26 
 
 
 3 
 
 19-42 
 
 23 60 
 
 41-68 
 
 2 
 
 15-42 
 
 18-80 
 
 33-43 
 
 
 2 
 
 19-50 
 
 23-70 
 
 41-85 
 
 I I 
 
 15-50 
 
 1 18-go 
 
 33-61 
 
 
 I 
 
 19-58 
 
 23 80 
 
 42-03 
 
 
 
 15-58 
 
 1 19-00 
 
 33-78 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 19-66 
 
 ! 
 
 23-90 
 
 42-20 
 
ALCOHOL OR SPIRIT TABLES. 
 
 TABLE I. — continued. 
 3- 4- I. 2. 
 
 749 
 
 Specific 
 
 gravity at 
 
 15 'S C. 
 
 Absolute 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 cent, by 
 
 Absolute 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 cent, by 
 
 Per- 
 centage 
 of proof 
 
 
 Specific 
 
 gravity at 
 
 15-sC. 
 
 Absolute 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 cent, by 
 
 Absolute 
 
 alcohol per 
 
 cent, by 
 
 Per- 
 centage 
 of proof 
 
 
 weight. 
 
 volume. 
 
 spirit. 
 
 
 weight. 
 
 volume. 
 
 spirit. 
 
 •9719 
 
 1975 
 
 24-00 
 
 42-38 
 
 -9679 
 
 22-91 
 
 27-82 
 
 48-99 
 
 8 
 
 19-83 
 
 24-10 
 
 42-55 
 
 
 8 
 
 23-00 
 
 27-91 
 
 49-15 
 
 7 
 
 19-91 
 
 24-20 
 
 42-73 
 
 
 7 
 
 23-08 
 
 28-00 
 
 49-31 
 
 6 
 
 20 -OO 
 
 24-30 
 
 42-90 
 
 
 6 
 
 23-15 
 
 28-09 
 
 49-47 
 
 S 
 
 20 -08 
 
 24-40 
 
 43-07 
 
 
 5 
 
 23-23 
 
 28-18 
 
 49-63 
 
 4 
 
 20-17 
 
 24-50 
 
 43-25 
 
 
 4 
 
 23-31 
 
 28-27 
 
 49-78 
 
 3 
 
 20-25 
 
 24-60 
 
 43-42 
 
 
 3 
 
 23-38 
 
 28-36 
 
 49-94 
 
 2 
 
 20-33 
 
 24-70 
 
 43-60 
 
 
 2 
 
 23-46 
 
 28-45 
 
 50-10 
 
 I 
 
 20-42 
 
 24-80 
 
 43-77 
 
 
 1 
 
 23-54 
 
 28-55 
 
 50-25 
 
 
 
 20-50 
 
 24-90 
 
 43-94 
 
 
 
 
 23-62 
 
 28-64 
 
 50-41 
 
 •9709 
 
 20-58 
 
 25-00 
 
 44-12 
 
 
 -9669 
 
 23-69 
 
 28-73 
 
 50-57 
 
 8 
 
 20 -66 
 
 25-09 
 
 44-29 
 
 
 8 
 
 23-77 
 
 28-82 
 
 50-73 
 
 7 
 
 2075 
 
 25-18 
 
 44-46 
 
 
 7 
 
 23-85 
 
 28-91 
 
 50-89 
 
 6 
 
 20-83 
 
 25-27 
 
 44-63 
 
 
 6 
 
 23-91 
 
 29-00 
 
 5 1 '05 
 
 5 
 
 20-91 
 
 25-36 
 
 44-81 
 
 
 5 
 
 24-00 
 
 29-09 
 
 51-21 
 
 4 
 
 21-00 
 
 25-45 
 
 44-99 
 
 
 4 
 
 2408 
 
 29-18 
 
 51-37 
 
 3 
 
 2 1 -08 
 
 25-54 
 
 45-15 
 
 
 3 
 
 24-15 
 
 29-27 
 
 51-53 
 
 2 
 
 21-15 
 
 25-64 
 
 45-31 
 
 
 2 
 
 24-23 
 
 29-36 
 
 51-69 
 
 I 
 
 21-23 
 
 25-73 
 
 45-47 
 
 
 1 
 
 24-31 
 
 29-45 
 
 51-85 
 
 
 
 21 -31 
 
 25-82 
 
 45-63 
 
 
 
 
 24-38 
 
 29-55 
 
 52-01 
 
 •9699 
 
 21-38 
 
 25-91 
 
 45-79 
 
 
 ■9659 
 
 24-46 
 
 29-6+ 
 
 52-16 
 
 8 
 
 21-46 
 
 26-00 
 
 45-95 
 
 
 8 
 
 24-54 
 
 29-73 
 
 52-32 
 
 7 
 
 21-54 
 
 26-10 
 
 46-11 
 
 
 7 
 
 24-62 
 
 29-82 
 
 52-48 
 
 6 
 
 21-62 
 
 26-20 
 
 46-27 
 
 
 6 
 
 24-69 
 
 29-91 
 
 52-64 
 
 S 
 
 21-69 
 
 26-30 
 
 46-43 
 
 
 5 
 
 24-77 
 
 30 00 
 
 52-80 
 
 4 
 
 21-77 
 
 26-40 
 
 46-59 
 
 
 4 
 
 24-85 
 
 30 08 
 
 52-96 
 
 3 
 
 21-85 
 
 26-50 
 
 46-76 
 
 
 3 
 
 24-91 
 
 30-17 
 
 53-12 
 
 2 
 
 21-91 
 
 26-60 
 
 46-92 
 
 
 -9652 
 
 25-00 
 
 30-25 
 
 53-28 
 
 I 
 
 22 -OO 
 22 08 
 
 26-70 
 26-80 
 
 47-07 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 47-23 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •9689 
 
 22-15 
 
 26-90 
 
 47-39 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 22-23 
 
 27-00 
 
 47-55 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 22-31 
 
 27-09 
 
 47-71 
 
 
 
 PROOF 
 
 SPIRIT. 
 
 
 6 
 
 22-38 
 
 27-18 
 
 47-87 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 S 
 
 22 46 
 
 27-27 
 
 48-03 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 22-54 
 
 27-36 
 
 48-19 
 
 
 ■91984 
 
 49-24 
 
 57-06 
 
 100 
 
 3 
 
 22 62 
 
 27-45 
 
 48-35 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 22-69 
 
 27-55 
 
 48-51 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 22-77 
 
 27-64 
 
 48-67 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 22-85 
 
 27-73 
 
 48-83 
 
 
 
 
 
 
75° 
 
 SUGAR TABLES. 
 
 TABLE II. 
 
 Giving the percentage of sugar, by weight in volume of solution, for all 
 specific gravities with four decimals, from specific gravity i "0040 to 
 specific gravity l'025o, at a temperature of I7'S° C. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 I '0040 
 
 I '004 
 
 i I '0085 
 
 2-143 
 
 I 0130 
 
 3-292 
 
 I 
 
 ■029 
 
 6 
 
 -168 
 
 I 
 
 •318 
 
 2 
 
 •054 
 
 7 
 
 -194 
 
 2 
 
 •343 
 
 3 
 
 ■080 
 
 8 
 
 •219 
 
 3 
 
 ■369 
 
 4 
 
 ■105 
 
 9 
 
 ■245 
 
 4 
 
 •395 
 
 5 
 
 •130 
 
 1-0090 
 
 2-270 
 
 5 
 
 •420 
 
 6 
 
 •155 
 
 I 
 
 •29s 
 
 6 
 
 •446 
 
 7 
 
 •i8o 
 
 2 
 
 •321 
 
 7 
 
 -472 
 
 8 
 
 •206 
 
 3 
 
 •346 
 
 8 
 
 •498 
 
 9 
 
 •231 
 
 4 
 
 ■372 
 
 9* 
 
 •523 
 
 I '0050 
 
 1-256 
 
 5 
 
 •397 
 
 I -0140 
 
 3-549 
 
 I 
 
 ■281 
 
 6 
 
 •423 
 
 I 
 
 ■575 
 
 2 
 
 ■307 
 
 7 
 
 •448 
 
 2 . 
 
 •600 
 
 3 
 
 ■332 
 
 8 
 
 •474 
 
 3 
 
 •626 
 
 4 
 
 •358 
 
 9 
 
 •499 
 
 4 
 
 •652 
 
 5 
 
 •383 
 
 i-oioo 
 
 2-525 
 
 5 
 
 •677 
 
 6 
 
 •408 
 
 I 
 
 •550 
 
 6 
 
 ■703 
 
 7 
 
 •434 
 
 2 
 
 •576 
 
 7 
 
 •729 
 
 8 
 
 •459 
 
 3 
 
 -601 
 
 8 
 
 ■755 
 
 9 
 
 •48s 
 
 4 
 
 -627 
 
 9 
 
 -780 
 
 I -0060 
 
 1-509 
 
 5 
 
 -652 
 
 I -0150 
 
 3-806 
 
 I 
 
 •534 
 
 6 
 
 ■678 
 
 I 
 
 -832 
 
 2 
 
 •S60 
 
 7 
 
 •703 
 
 2 
 
 •858 
 
 3 
 
 'f^ 
 
 8 
 
 ■729 
 
 3 
 
 -883 
 
 4 
 
 •610 
 
 9 
 
 .■754 
 
 4 
 
 -909 
 
 S 
 
 •635 
 
 i-oiio 
 
 2-780 
 
 5 
 
 ■93s 
 
 6 
 
 ■661 
 
 I 
 
 •805 
 
 6 
 
 •961 
 
 7 
 
 •686 
 
 2 
 
 ■831 
 
 7 
 
 •987 
 
 8 
 
 ■711 
 
 3 
 
 •856 
 
 8 
 
 4-012 
 
 9 
 
 •737 
 
 4 
 
 ■882 
 
 9 
 
 -038 
 
 I "0070 
 
 1-762 
 
 5 
 
 -908 
 
 I -0160 
 
 4-064 
 
 I 
 
 •787 
 
 6 
 
 ■934 
 
 I 
 
 -090 
 
 2 
 
 -8:3 
 
 7 
 
 •959 
 
 2 
 
 -116 
 
 3 
 
 -838 
 
 8 
 
 •985 
 
 3 
 
 -141 
 
 4 
 
 •864 
 
 9 
 
 3 010 
 
 4 
 
 -167 
 
 5 
 
 -889 
 
 I -0120 
 
 3^036 
 
 5 
 
 ■193 
 
 6 
 
 •914 
 
 I 
 
 -062 
 
 6 
 
 •219 
 
 7 
 
 •940 
 
 2 
 
 -087 
 
 7 
 
 ■24s 
 
 8 
 
 •965 
 
 3 
 
 -113- 
 
 8 
 
 •270 
 
 9 
 
 -991 
 
 4 
 
 ■138 
 
 9 
 
 •296 
 
 1 -0080 
 
 2-016 
 
 5 
 
 -164 
 
 1-0170 
 
 4-322 
 
 I 
 
 ■041 
 
 6 
 
 -190 
 
 I 
 
 •347 
 
 2 
 
 ■067 
 
 7 
 
 ■215 
 
 2 
 
 ■374 
 
 3 
 
 •092 
 
 8 
 
 •241 
 
 3 
 
 •400 
 
 4 
 
 •118 
 
 9 
 
 -266 
 
 4 
 
 ■426 
 
SUGAR TABLES. 
 
 751 
 
 TABLE 1\.— continued. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 I -0175 
 
 4'4Si 
 
 I -0200 
 
 5-100 
 
 I -0225 
 
 5-751 
 
 6 
 
 "477 
 
 I 
 
 •126 
 
 6 
 
 ■778 
 
 7 
 
 •503 
 
 2 
 
 -152 
 
 7 
 
 -804- 
 
 8 
 
 •529 
 
 3 
 
 -178 
 
 8 
 
 -•830 
 
 9 
 
 ■S5S 
 
 4 
 
 •204 
 
 9 
 
 -856 
 
 I 'oiSo 
 
 4-581 
 
 5 
 
 •230 
 
 I -0230 
 
 5-882 
 
 I 
 
 •607 
 
 6 
 
 -256 
 
 I 
 
 -908 
 
 2 
 
 •633 
 
 7 
 
 -282 
 
 2 
 
 ■934 
 
 3 
 
 •659 
 
 8 
 
 -308 
 
 3 
 
 ■961 
 
 4 
 
 ■685 
 
 9 
 
 ■334 
 
 4 
 
 -987 
 
 5 
 
 •710 
 
 I-02IO 
 
 5-360 
 
 5 
 
 6-013 
 
 6 
 
 ■736 
 
 I 
 
 -386 
 
 6 
 
 •039 
 
 7 
 
 "'^l 
 
 2 
 
 -412 
 
 7 
 
 -065 
 
 8 
 
 •788 
 
 3 
 
 •438 
 
 8 
 
 -002 
 
 9 
 
 ■814 
 
 4 
 
 •464 
 
 9 
 
 •118 
 
 I -0190 
 
 4-840 
 
 5 
 
 -490 
 
 I -0240 
 
 6-144 
 
 I 
 
 -866 
 
 6 
 
 ■517 
 
 I 
 
 ■170 
 
 2 
 
 •892 
 
 7 
 
 •543 
 
 2 
 
 -196 
 
 3 
 
 -918 
 
 S 
 
 ■569 
 
 3 
 
 -223 
 
 4 
 
 -944 
 
 9 
 
 •595 
 
 4 
 
 -249 
 
 S 
 
 ■970 
 
 I -0220 
 
 5-621 
 
 5 
 
 -275 
 
 6 
 
 ■996 
 
 I 
 
 •647 
 
 6 
 
 -301 
 
 7 
 
 5-022 
 
 2 
 
 •673 
 
 7 
 
 ■327 
 
 8 
 
 -048 
 
 3 
 
 -699 
 
 8 
 
 ■354 
 
 9 
 
 •074 
 
 4 
 
 •725 
 
 9 
 I -0250 
 
 -380 
 6-406 
 
 TABLE III. 
 
 Giving the specific gravity of sugar soliitio7t for every per cent, by weight 
 in volume, from 5 to 35 per cent, at a temperature of 17-5 C. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 Percentage. 
 
 Specific 
 gravity. 
 
 5 
 
 I -0196 
 
 16 
 
 I -0617 
 
 27 
 
 I -1033 
 
 6 
 
 I -0235 
 
 17 
 
 1-0655 
 
 28 
 
 I-I07I 
 
 7 
 
 I -0274 
 
 18 
 
 1-0693 
 
 29 
 
 I • no8 
 
 8 
 
 I -0313 
 
 19 
 
 I -0731 
 
 30 
 
 1-1146 
 
 9 
 
 I -03s I 
 
 20 
 
 I -0769 
 
 31 
 
 1-1183 
 
 10 
 
 1-0389 
 
 21 
 
 I -0807 
 
 32 
 
 I -1221 
 
 II 
 
 1-0427 
 
 22 
 
 I -0845 
 
 33 
 
 1-1258 
 
 12 
 
 I -0465 
 
 23 
 
 I -0883 
 
 34 
 
 I -1296 
 
 13 
 
 I -0503 
 
 24 
 
 I -092 1 
 
 35 
 
 I -1333 
 
 14 
 
 I -0541 
 
 25 
 
 I -0958 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 1-0579 
 
 26 
 
 I -0996 
 
 
 
752 CONVERSION FORMULA. 
 
 TABLE IV. 
 
 Formula for the conversion into each other of current measures of 
 heat, capacity, and weight. 
 
 To convert degrees Celsius Into degrees Fahrenheit : — Multiply the degrees 
 Celsius by l8, divide by lO, and add 32 to the product. 
 
 C° X 18 
 — F^ +32 = F°. 
 
 To convert degrees Fahrenheit into degrees Celsius : — From the degrees Fahren- 
 heit subtract 32, multiply the residue by 10, and divide by 18. 
 
 (F° - 32) X 10 
 
 18 - *-• 
 
 I kilogramme = 1000 grammes = 1 5432 '3488 grains. 
 
 I gramme = 15 -4323488 grains. 
 
 I hectolitre = 100 litres = I76"I7 pints or 22'02I2 gallons. 
 
 I litre = 1000 cubic centimetres = 17617 pints, or 0220212 gallons, or 
 
 35*234 fluid ounces. 
 
 I grain = 0-064857 grammes. 
 
 I gallon = 4-54107 litres. 
 
 I pint = 0-5676335 litres. 
 
 I fluid ounce = 283816 cubic centimetres. 
 
 I litre ■--■ I kilogramme water at 4° C in vacuo. 
 
 I gallon = 70,000 grains water at 16-66° C in air at 30 inches barometer. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 A. 
 
 Acetic acid, tests for, i8i. 
 Acid, acetic, 174. 
 butyric, 183. 
 capric, 183. 
 caproic, 183. 
 caprylic, 183. 
 formic, 183-185. 
 malic, 183. 
 melissic, 183. 
 cenanthic, 188. 
 oenantliylic, 183. 
 pelargonic, 183. 
 racemic, 168. 
 succinic, 171. 
 tartaric, 164. 
 Acidity of must regulated, 116. 
 Acids, estimation of, 187. 
 ,, fatty, separation of, 187. 
 ,, in wine, 164. 
 Africa, wines of, 717. 
 Albumen — 
 
 estimation of, 261. 
 presence in wine of, 260. 
 Alcohol — ■ 
 
 amylic, 130. 
 butylic, 130. 
 caprylic, 130. 
 constitution of, 128. 
 estimation of, 132. 
 ethylic, 130. 
 formation of, 124. 
 methylic, 130. 
 physical characters, 124. 
 propylic, 130. 
 state of, in wine, 158. 
 Alcohol occurring in wine, 131. 
 Alcoholometrie — 
 capillarity, 158. 
 dilatometer, 152. 
 distillation, 133. 
 ebuUioscope, 142. 
 Tabarie's method, 1 38. 
 
 Alcoholometrie : the vaporimeter, 
 
 147. 
 Aldehyde, acetic, 161. 
 
 ,, in wine, 161. 
 
 Alicante, wines of, 655. 
 Alsatia — 
 
 classification of wines of, 527. 
 
 vines cultivated in, 525. 
 
 wines of, 525- 
 Alto Douro wine, analysis of, 681. 
 America — 
 
 cultivation of vines in, 731. 
 
 foreign wines in, 734. 
 
 historical notes of, 724. 
 
 statistics of, 735. 
 
 varieties cultivated in, 732- 
 
 vinification in, 735- 
 
 wild or indigenous vines of, 725. 
 Ammonia, estimation of, 261. 
 „ in sap, 33. 
 ,, in wine, 260. 
 Analysis of wines, 278. 
 Apple, Rosemary, of the Tyrol, 594. 
 Aragon, wines of, 654. 
 Archipelago, Greek wines of, 706. 
 Armenia, wines of, 711. 
 Aroma of wine, 219. 
 Ash of wine, 267. 
 Asia, wines of, 711. 
 Assmannshausen — 
 
 description of, 574. 
 
 Nassau, method in, 575. 
 
 vinification at, 574. 
 Atlantic Islands, wines of, 691. 
 Australia — 
 
 climate of, 739. 
 
 densities of musts in, 642. 
 
 general remarks on, 744. 
 
 history of viticulture in, 738. 
 
 South, wines of, 74 1. 
 
 statistics of, 740. 
 
 various wines of, 742. 
 Austria, Lower, wines of, 587. 
 Azores, wines from the, 695. 
 
 3C 
 
754 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 B. 
 
 Baden, wines of, 544. 
 Beaujolais — 
 
 classification of wines of, 41 ?■ 
 
 precis of wines of, 418. 
 
 topogi'aphy of, 415. 
 
 training wines at, 416. 
 
 vines of, 415. 
 
 vintage at, 417. 
 Berthelot — 
 
 etliers, estimation of, 202. 
 
 theory, consideration of, 216. 
 Bitartrate, estimation of, 192. 
 Black Hambro' gi-apes, 592. 
 Blaye (Blayais), viticultural statistics of, 
 
 371- 
 Bodega — 
 
 explanation of term, 644. 
 
 treatment of wines in the, 645. 
 Bohemia — 
 
 soil of, 621. 
 
 wines, production of, 620. 
 Brandy, addition of, to port, 678. 
 Bucellas wine, 688. 
 Burgundy — 
 
 cultivation in, 428. 
 
 grafting and laying in, 432. 
 
 presses and pressing in, 441. 
 
 statistics of, 443. 
 
 topography of, 42 1. 
 
 treatment of vine in, 434. 
 
 treatment of wine in, 442. 
 
 vatting and fermentation in,.437. 
 
 vines of, 427. 
 
 vintage of, 434. 
 Butyl, 129. 
 Butylic alcohol, 131. 
 
 C. 
 
 Canaries, the wine from, 695. 
 Candia, wines of, 709. 
 Canes, propagation by, 60. 
 Cape of Good Hope — 
 
 districts of, 720. 
 
 historical note on, 718. 
 
 importation from, 720. 
 
 topography of, 717. 
 
 vines of, 718. 
 
 vintage and vinification at, 719. 
 
 wines of, 720. 
 Capillarity — 
 
 of alcohol, 125. 
 
 of wine, 158. 
 Carbonic acid, absorption of, 477. 
 Catalan, or Spanish port, 654. 
 
 Chalon — 
 
 Cote de, 422, 
 
 vines of, 422. 
 
 wines of, 423. 
 Chambertin, density of must at, 641. 
 Champagne — 
 
 cellaring and fining vrine in, 461. 
 
 cultivation in, 451. 
 
 pressing and fermentation in, 458. 
 
 provining in, 452. 
 
 soil of, 450. 
 
 topography of, 444. 
 
 vines of, 453. 
 
 vineyards of, 453. 
 
 vintage in, 455. 
 Champagne, sparkling — 
 
 absorption of carbonic acid, 477- 
 , , coefficient of, 476. 
 
 „ of gases, 475. 
 
 adjustment of acids and alcohol in 
 claret, 482. 
 
 adjustment of sugar in claret, 482. 
 
 breakage {casse), 465. 
 
 , , how checked, 465. 
 
 changes in wine on disgorging, 484. 
 
 corking and finishing, 469. 
 
 disgorging, 466. 
 
 drawing into bottles, 463. 
 
 fermentation in bottle, 465. 
 
 history of, 473. 
 
 liqueuring, 466. 
 
 manometer, Schinz's, 480. 
 
 manometers, 479. 
 
 pressui-e in bottles, 471-478. 
 
 prices of, 471. 
 
 scientific considerations, 475. 
 
 treatment of claret, 481. 
 
 varieties, 470. 
 
 crSmant, 470. 
 grand mousseux, 470. 
 mousseux, 470. 
 non mousseux, 470. 
 oeuil de perdrix, 471. 
 Charente — 
 
 department of, 490. 
 
 vrines of, 490. 
 Ch&teau-neuf-du-Pape — 
 
 vines of, 406. 
 
 vineyard of, 406. 
 
 vinification at, 406. 
 Chateaux — 
 
 Lafitte, 328. 
 
 Latour, 328. 
 
 Margaux, 327. 
 Chemicals necessary in analysis, 277. 
 Cognac — ■ 
 
 modes of manufacture at, 491. 
 
 statistics of, 492. 
 
 vines used in making, 490. 
 Colouring matters of wine, 255. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 755 
 
 Constantia, wines from, 721. 
 
 Consul Crawfurd on the wines from the 
 
 Douro, 683. 
 Consume wine, 689. 
 Crete, wines of, 709. 
 Croatia — 
 
 cultivation of vines in, 607. 
 
 general description of, 606. 
 
 vines of, 606. 
 
 viticulture of, 608. 
 
 wines, exhibition of, at' Agram, 
 609. 
 Crashing of grapes, 107. 
 Cutting of vine, 81. 
 
 Dachsberg, the, 571. 
 Dalmatia — 
 
 cultivation of vines in, 612. 
 
 Maraschino, 614. 
 
 topography of, 611. 
 
 vintage and vinification in, 614. 
 
 wines of, 613, 615. 
 Densities of musts, 538. 
 Dextro-tarlaric acid, 164. 
 Distillation of wine for the estimation 
 
 of alcohol, 133. 
 Dore, the, 454. 
 
 Ebullioscope, 142. 
 Elbling vine, 580, 
 Elder-tree on the Douro, 684. 
 Ellfeld— 
 
 description of, 557. 
 
 viticulture in, 558. 
 Eltville, see Ellfeld. 
 Endosmosis and Exosmosis, 127. 
 Endosmotic equivalent, 128. 
 Enrachet, 310. 
 Entre deux Mers, viticultural statistics 
 
 of, 379- 
 Ermitage — 
 grape, 542. 
 
 vines cultivated at, 410. 
 vineyard of, 409. 
 Estimation of acids, 189. 
 
 ,, albumen, 261. 
 
 alcohol, 133. 
 ,, alkalies, 269. 
 
 ,, ammonia, 261. 
 
 ,, ash, 267. 
 
 ,, bitartrate, 192. 
 
 ,, chlorine, 269. 
 
 ,, ethers, 202. 
 
 Estimation of extractives, 265. 
 ,, glycerine, 254. 
 
 „ malic acid, 197. 
 
 „ phosphoric acid, 267. 
 
 „ succinic acid, 173. 
 
 ,, sugar, chemically, 226. 
 
 ,, ,, optically, 247 
 
 ,, sulphuric acid, 269. 
 
 tannin, 265. 
 „ tartaric acid, 192. 
 
 ,, total residue, 272. 
 
 Ether, acetic, 198. 
 
 ,, aceto-propylic, &c. 199. 
 „ butyro-ethylic, &c. 200. 
 „ oenanthic, 200. 
 ,, tartaric, 201. 
 Ethers in wine, 198. 
 ,, fixed, 206. 
 ,, volatile, 203. 
 Ethyl, 129. 
 Ethylic alcohol, 124. 
 Extractives, 265. 
 Eyes, grafting of, 63. 
 ,, propagation by, 57. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fermentation of must, 1 10. 
 Fossil vines and grapes, 14. 
 Fousel oil in Hungarian wines, compo- 
 sition of, 628. 
 Franconia — ■ 
 
 cultivation in, 541, 
 
 Leiste, the, 540. 
 
 Stein, the, 542. 
 
 topography of, 540. 
 
 viticulture near Wiirtzburg, 543. 
 ■ Frankenthal grape, 592. 
 Frontignac wine, 592. 
 Frost- 
 effect on the vine, 92. 
 
 protection of vines from, 88. 
 Furmint, seeTokay, 625. 
 
 Gamay — 
 
 must, density of, 641. 
 
 Nicholas, the, 415. 
 
 Petit, the, 415. 
 
 Picard, the, 419. 
 Garonne, statistics of, 375. 
 Geisenheim, 571. 
 Geisler's vaporimeter, 147. 
 Geoi^ia, wines of, 711. 
 German wines, analysis of, 281-286. 
 
756 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Geschlafene vine, 592. 
 Gibondot, the grape, 423. 
 Gironde — 
 
 general statistics of the, 305. 
 
 wines of the, 305. 
 
 wines of hill-sides, or C&tes, 365. 
 Glycerine, 251. 
 Goertz — 
 
 vinification at, 620. 
 
 viticulture at, 619. 
 Grafting — 
 
 compound inarching, 64. 
 
 eye, 63. 
 
 in Burgundy, 432. 
 
 in grooves, 64. 
 
 simple inarching, 63. 
 Grape cure at Meran, 594. 
 Grape mill, 107. 
 Grapes — • 
 
 acid and sugar during ripening, 36. 
 „ in ripening, 35. 
 
 chemical ingredients of, 35. 
 
 mashing of, 107. 
 
 ripening of the enfarine, 40. 
 ,, ploussard, 43. 
 
 Graves — 
 
 classification of wines of the, 353. 
 
 cultivation in the, 350. 
 
 fermentation in the, 353. 
 
 red wines of the, 349. 
 
 topography of the, 348. 
 
 vines cultivated in the, 349-351. 
 
 vintage in the, 351. 
 
 viticultural statistics of the, 357, 
 362, 364. 
 
 wines of the , 350, 354. 
 Greece — 
 
 districts, vine-growing, 705. 
 
 general remarks on, 703. 
 
 quantity of wine, 708. 
 
 training, method of, 707. 
 
 vines of, 704, 708. 
 
 vinification in, 705. 
 
 wines, varieties of, 70S, 708. 
 Grenache noir, the, 382. 
 Grosse Vidure, 349. 
 
 H. 
 
 Hallgarten, 566. 
 
 Hambro' black grape, 592. 
 
 Hattenheim, 566. 
 
 Head system of training vines, 543, 
 
 589, 591- 
 Hermitage, see Ennitage. 
 Hesse, north of Maine, 544. 
 Hessia, Rhenish — 
 
 area of vineyards in, 537- 
 
 Liebfraumilch, 536. 
 
 Niersteiner, 536. 
 
 Hochheim — 
 
 topography of, 552. 
 
 vines, planting at, &c., 554- 
 
 vinification at, 557. 
 Holy Ghost wine, 543. 
 Homologous series, 129. 
 Hungary — 
 
 classification of wines of, 629. 
 
 cultivation in, 626. 
 
 fousel oil in wines of, 628. 
 
 general remarks on, 622. 
 
 Kadarka, the blue, 626. 
 
 produce of, 631. 
 
 soil of, 624. 
 
 topography of, 623. 
 
 Vermouth liqueur, 631. 
 
 vines, varieties of, 624. 
 
 vinification in, 628. 
 
 vintage in, 627. 
 
 white Tokay vine of, 625. 
 
 I. 
 
 Imeretia, wines of, 711. 
 Inarching — ■ 
 
 coipnpound, 64. 
 
 simple, 63. 
 Indigenous vines — 
 
 of America, 725. 
 
 of Europe, i . 
 Instruments necessary for the analysis 
 
 of wine, 277. 
 Ionia, wines of, 711. 
 Istria — 
 
 topography of, 617. 
 
 vines and vinification of, 618. 
 
 vitteulture of, 617. 
 Italy, wines of, 697. 
 
 Jeropiga, 677. 
 Johannisberg, the — 
 
 cultivation, 568. 
 
 description of, 567. 
 
 history, 567. 
 
 Hohle, 571. 
 
 press-house, 569. 
 
 produce of, 570. 
 
 soil, 568. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kadarka, the blue grape, 626. 
 
 Kiedrich, 559. 
 
 Kloster Neuburg, wines of, 587. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 757 
 
 Languedoc — 
 
 brandy of, 398. 
 
 Muscat wines of, 398. 
 
 remarkable growths of, 394-396. 
 
 topography of, 390. 
 
 training of vines in, 397. 
 
 vines cultivated in, 391. 
 
 viuification in, 391-395- 
 Layers, propagation by, 61. 
 Lisbon wine, 688. 
 Livadia, wines of, 705. 
 Loire, valley of — 
 
 cultivation in, 488. 
 
 topography of, 487. 
 
 vines of, 487. 
 
 M. 
 
 Macedonia, wines of, 703. 
 Maconnais — 
 
 character of white wines of, 421. 
 
 classification of wines of, 422. 
 
 cultivation in, 420. 
 
 topography of, 418. 
 
 vines of, 419. 
 Madeira — 
 
 classification of growths of, 694. 
 
 cultivation in, 692. 
 
 history of the vine culture in, 691. 
 
 maturation of wine of, 693. 
 
 production of, 694. 
 
 soil of, 691. 
 
 varieties of wine of, 692, 693. 
 
 vintage in, 692. 
 Maine, Lower, see Hochheim, 552. 
 Maine, Upper, see Franconia, 540. 
 Malaga, wines of, 657. 
 Malbec grape, 309, 349. 
 Malic acid, 169. 
 
 estimation of, 197- 
 Manometer for bottles, 479. 
 
 ,, Schinz's, 4S0. 
 
 Manuring, method of, 49, $8. 
 Manzanilla wine, 652. 
 Maraschino, the grape, 613. 
 Marcobrunn, 566. 
 Mareye, the grape, 310. 
 Marsala, 702. 
 Marsanne, the grape, 310. 
 Marshes, viticultural statistics of, 379. 
 Mashing of grapes, 107. 
 Measures, formulae for converting French 
 measures into English, and viceversd, 
 752. 
 Measures of capacity, Rhenish, 578- 
 Medoc — 
 
 classified growths of, 327-329. 
 
 consumption of wines of, 333. 
 
 M^doc [continued) — 
 
 cultivation in, 310. 
 
 general statistics of, 326. 
 
 method of sale in, 332. 
 
 prices of wines in, 331. 
 
 qualification of wines of, 326. 
 
 topography of, 306. 
 
 training of vine in, 312. 
 
 vines of, 307. 
 
 vinification in, 324. 
 
 vintage of, 321. 
 
 viticultural statistics of, 334. 
 Merlot, the grape, 308-366. 
 Mescle, the fertile and sterile, 7. 
 Meunier, the grape, 487. 
 Mineral constituents of the vine, 26. 
 Mineral constituents of wine, 266. 
 Mineral matter abstracted from the 
 
 soil, 29. 
 Mingrelia, vines of, 26. 
 Mittelheim, 567. 
 Moutpelier, brandy of, 401. 
 
 statistics of, 402. 
 Morea, wines of, 706. 
 Morocco, vines of, 723. 
 Moselle — ■ 
 
 soil of, 579. 
 
 sparkling, 585. 
 
 topography of, 578. 
 
 vines of, 580. 
 
 vintage of, 583. 
 
 wine of, 583. 
 Mosler, 6oo. 
 
 Mumm, M., vineyard of, S71. 
 Must — 
 
 acidity of, adjusted, 116. 
 
 analyses of, 642. 
 
 density of, in various wines, 538. 
 
 fermentation of, 1 10. 
 
 plastering of, 119. 
 
 sugar of, adjusted, 116. 
 Mustang grape, 728. 
 
 N. 
 
 Naples, wines of, 701. 
 Nassau, area of vineyards, 576. 
 Neuburg convent, wines of, 588. 
 New South Wales, wines of, 740. 
 Noir de Pressac, 366. 
 
 GEiLLADE, 392, 
 Oestrich, 567. 
 
 O. 
 
 P. 
 
 Palatinate — 
 
 area of vineyards of the, 536. 
 Kammerbau training in the, 530. 
 mixture of vines in the, 535. 
 
758. 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Palatinate (continued) — 
 
 mode of cultivation in the, 530. 
 topography of the, 528. 
 vines of the, 533. 
 Palus, statistics of, 379. 
 Paratartaric acid, 168. 
 Pedro Ximenes wine, 657. 
 Persia, wines of, 712. 
 Petiot's process of fermentation, 1 12. 
 Petite Vidure grape, 307. 
 Picpoule grape, 382, 392. 
 Piedmont, wines of, 697. 
 Pinching of vine, 81. 
 Pineau, or Noirien — 
 density of must, 641. 
 grape, 427, 453. 
 Piran grape, 392. 
 Plastering of wine, 1 19. 
 Port, Spanish, 656. 
 Portugal — 
 
 Alto Douro wine, 681, 688. 
 
 brandy, addition of to wines of, 678. 
 
 Bucellas wine, 688. 
 
 Consul Crawfurd on wines of, 683. 
 
 Consumo wine, 689. 
 
 cultivation of vines in, 674. 
 
 elder-tree on Douro, 684. 
 
 general remarks on wines of, 677. 
 
 historical notes of vrines of, 686. 
 
 Jeropiga, 677. 
 
 Lisbon wine, 688. 
 
 list of places in wine districts of 
 Alto Douro, 688. 
 
 production and quality of wines of, 
 687. 
 
 soil of, 673. 
 
 topography of, 672. 
 
 vinificalion in, 675. 
 
 vintage in, 675. 
 
 value of port wine in, 686. 
 
 wages in, 674, 675. 
 
 white port in, 687. 
 
 wines, varieties of, 674. 
 ,, other than port, 688. 
 
 R. 
 
 Racemic acid, 168. 
 Rauenthal, 559. 
 Rheingau — 
 
 general condition of, 55 '• 
 
 history of wine in, 547. 
 
 Riessling, 548. 
 
 topography of, 545. 
 
 varieties of wines in, 548. 
 
 vinification in, 548. 
 Rhenish measures of capacity, 578. 
 Rhenish Prussia, 586. 
 Rh6ne, C8te du, wines of, 405. 
 Rhone valley, topography of, 404. 
 
 Riessling grape, 548. 
 Rothe Berg, 571. 
 Roumanian wines, 703. 
 Rousanne grape, 410. 
 Roussillon — 
 
 cultivation in, 382. ' 
 
 Maccabeo, wines of, 387. 
 
 Malvoisie wines of, 387. 
 
 Muscat wines of, 386. 
 
 shipment from, 389. 
 
 topography of, 381. 
 
 vines cultivated in, 382. 
 
 wines of, 389. 
 RUdesheim, vines of, 572. 
 
 S. 
 
 Saccharometer — 
 Jellett's, 240. 
 
 Mitscherlich's, 238. 
 
 Soleil's, 239. 
 Saccharom'etry — 
 
 chemical, 226. 
 
 optical, 247. 
 Santorin, wines of, 707. 
 Sap of wine, 32. 
 
 force of rising of, 33. 
 Sardinia, wines of, 698. 
 Sauternes, 350. 
 
 viticultural statistics of the,'357. 
 Sauvignone, the grape, 351. 
 Schirwan, wines of, 711. 
 Seed, propagation by, 57. 
 Semilion, the grape, 351. 
 Shiraz — 
 
 topography of, 713. 
 
 varieties of vines of, 714. 
 
 vinification at, 714. 
 Sherry — 
 
 alcoholic strength of, 648. 
 
 densities of musts of, 638. 
 
 fashions in sherry, 653. 
 
 mixing stations, 652. 
 
 modes of making, 644. 
 
 natural sherry, 649. 
 
 preparation for export, 65 1. 
 
 sherry districts, 637. / 
 
 sugaring and boiling of must, 650 
 
 treatment in Bodegas, 645. 
 
 varieties of, 652. 
 Sicily, wines of, 7°2. 
 Silbermann's dilatometer, 152. 
 Sirrah, grosse, 409. 
 ,, petite, 409. 
 Smell of wine, 219. 
 Soil- 
 definition of, 47. 
 
 empirical, 48. 
 
 ,, quantity required, 49. 
 favourable to viticulture, 46. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 759 
 
 Soil [continued) — 
 
 improvements of, 50. 
 
 rational, 47. 
 Solera wines, 645. 
 Solid constituents, total, 272. 
 Spain — 
 
 areas of sherry vineyards in, 635. 
 
 density of musts in wines of, 638. 
 
 difficulties of transport in, 634. 
 
 soil of, 636. 
 
 Spanish ports, 656. 
 
 topography of, 632. 
 
 vines of the sherry district, 637. 
 
 wines of Xeres or Sherries, 635. 
 Spumant^s, 697. 
 Stalks, separation of, loj. 
 St. Emilion — 
 
 classification of wines of, 370. 
 
 training at, 367. 
 
 vineyards of, 365. 
 
 viticultural statistics of, 370. 
 Steinberg, the — 
 
 annual sale of wines, S^S- 
 
 cabinet, the, 564. 
 
 description of, 560. 
 
 planting and training in, 562. 
 
 press-house, 564. 
 
 price and value of wine in, 565. 
 
 vinification in, 563. 
 
 vintage in, 563. 
 Styria— 
 
 planting and cultivation in, 602. 
 
 pressing in, 604. 
 
 production of wine in, 597. 
 
 social condition of, 598. 
 
 soil of, 597, 600. 
 
 topography of, 596. 
 
 vinification in, 603. 
 
 Wildbacher, the blue, 602. 
 
 wines of, 600, 604. 
 Sugar — 
 
 cane, 223. 
 
 estimation of, 226. 
 
 fruit, 225. 
 
 grape, 224. 
 
 invert, 225. 
 
 origin of, in grapes, 36. 
 „ wine, 222. 
 Support of vine, 86. 
 Syllabus of analysis, 278. 
 
 Tabarie, his method of alcohol estima- 
 tion, 138. 
 Tables— 
 
 alcoholometric, 746. 
 
 analytical, 281. 
 
 saccharometric, 750. 
 
 weights and measures, 752. 
 
 Tannin, 263. 
 Tartaric acid — 
 
 dextro, 164. 
 
 estimation of, 192, 
 
 Issvo, 167. 
 
 para, l58. 
 Teinturier, the grape, 467. 
 Temperature, formulis for conversion 
 
 of, 752. 
 Teneriffe, wine from, 695; 
 Tent wine, 654. 
 Terret-bourret, 391, 392. 
 Thera, ancient wine from, 707. 
 Thessaly, wines of, 703-705. 
 Tirolinger or black Hambro', 592. 
 Tokay, the white wine, 625. 
 Training of vine, 75"^^' 
 Traminer — 
 
 description of, 533. 
 
 not found at-Tramin, 594. 
 
 origin of, 533, 
 
 white, of Franconia, 541. 
 Turkish Islands, wines of, 709. 
 Tuscany, wines of, 698. 
 Tyrol- 
 black Hambro' grape of the, 592. 
 
 cultivation in the, 591, 592. 
 
 topography of the, 590. 
 
 vinification in the, 593. 
 
 Val de Penas, wines of, 654. 
 Valencia, wines of, 654. 
 Vaporimeter, Geisler's, 147. 
 Veuetia — 
 
 cultivation in, 699. 
 
 wine of, 700. 
 Verdot grape, 309. 
 Vermouth liqueur, 631. 
 Victoria, wines of, 741. 
 Vidure, grosse, grape, 349. 
 „ petite, grape, 307. 
 ,, Sauvignone, 349. 
 Vine — 
 
 chemical ingredients, 34. 
 
 cultivation, 67, 
 
 cutting, 81. 
 
 development, 30. 
 
 food, 19. 
 
 fossil, 14. 
 
 geographical distribution, 17. 
 
 mineral constituents, 19. 
 
 origin, I. 
 
 propagation, methods of, 57. 
 
 protection against frost, 87 . 
 
 pruning, 76. 
 
 sap, 21. 
 
 support, 86. 
 
 training, Guyot's plan, 75. 
 
760 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 "Vine, treatment during vegetation, 84. 
 Vines — 
 
 classification of wild, 8. 
 cultivated in France, 493. 
 derivation of cultivated, 11. 
 indigenous, of Europe, I. 
 inflorescence of wild, 6. 
 selection of varieties, 94-98. 
 Vineyards, manuring of, 49. 
 Vintage, 100. 
 Viticulture, effect on soil, 29. 
 
 , , general principles of, 46-7 1 . 
 
 Vitis ffistivalis, 727. 
 Ausonise, 17. 
 Califomica, 729. 
 candicans, 728. 
 caribaea, 727. 
 cordifolia, 729. 
 Labrusca, 2, 726. 
 Lincecumii, 731. 
 monticola, 730. 
 rupestris, 730. 
 teutonica, 14. 
 vinifera, I, 2. 
 Volraths, 566. 
 Voslau, red wine of, 588. 
 
 W. 
 
 Wales, New South, wines of, 740. 
 Weights, French and English, formulse 
 for conversion, 752. 
 
 Wends, the wine-producing, 599- 
 Wildbacher grape, blue, 601. 
 Wine-making — 
 
 Gall's process, 114. 
 
 Petiot's process, 112. 
 
 rules for, 115. 
 Wines, analyses — 
 
 Atlantic Islands, 299. 
 
 Australia, 299. 
 
 Cape, 299. 
 
 France, 28 1. 
 
 Germany, 281. 
 - Greece, 299. 
 
 Hungary, 293. 
 
 Portugal, 293. 
 
 Sicily, 293. 
 
 Spain, 287. 
 Wines, classification of French — 
 
 liqueur wines, 515. 
 
 red wines, 495. 
 
 white wines, S°9- 
 Wines, plastering of, 119. 
 
 ,, presses for, 108. 
 Winkel, 567. 
 
 Wurtemberg, wines of, 544. 
 Wiirtzburg Castle, cellars at, 542. 
 
 X. 
 
 Xeres, wines of, 635. 
 statistics of, 659. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 lONDON' K CLAY, SONS, AND TAVl.OR, PRINTERS, BRKAD STREF.T HIT.I.. 
 
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