QJortrcU UniDcraitg Slibtanj Jltljara, New fork FROM THE BENNO LOEWY LIBRARY COLLECTED BY BENNO LOEWY 1854-1919 BEQUEATHED TO CORNELL UNIVERSITY Cornell University Library DA 890.S2L26 St. Andrews, 3 1924 028 094 138 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028094138 ST ANDREWS WORKS BY ANDREW LANG. HOMER AND THE EPIC. Crown 8vo. 9«. net. CUSTOM AND MYTH : Studies of Early Usage and Belief. With 15 Illustrations. Grown 8vo. 3*. Gd. BALLADS OF BOOKS. Edited by Andrew Lang. Pep. 8vo. 6s. LETTERS TO DEAD AUTHORS. Fcp. 8vo. 2s. Gd. net. BOOKS AND BOOKMEN. With 2 Coloured Plates and 17 Illustrations. Fcp. 8vo. 2s. Gd. net. OLD FRIENDS. Fcp. 8vo. 2s. Gd. net. LETTERS ON LITERATURE. Fop. 8vo. It. Gd. net. GRASS OF PARNASSUS. Fcp. 8vo. 2s. Gd. net. ANGLING SKETCHES. "With 20 Illustrations by W. G. Burn-Murdoch. 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X o m s o a e ST ANDREWS ANDREW LANG )(afj.al 7T«re Sct.iSaA.os av\d WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY T. HODGE LONDON LONGMANS, GEEEN, AND CO. AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 16'" STREET 1893 ,< J 11 right a r.'si'rvr>» 144 , 186 , 218 , 229 332 ) 336 ILLUSTEATIONS IN TEXT PAGE North Street 3 Cavf. of St. Rule 10 St. Serf's Isle in Loch Leven 16 "Remains of Kirkheugh 26 Stalls 36 Black Friars Chapel 43 Leuchars Kirk 46 xvi ST. ANDREWS PAOE The South Wall of the Cathedral 56 Hepburn's Wall 90 Hepburn's Arms 93 Tomb in St. Leonard's 95 Balcomie Castle 122 Gate op New Inn 125 Subterranean Passage 145 Entrance to the Castle 154 The Last Saint 163 Queen Mary's 174 Queen Mary's Chamber 176 A Gate of St. Leonard's 201 Montrose's Archery Medal 230 The West Port 2.55 Crail 272 A View of St. Andrews from the West, the Sea Combat of the Dolphin and Solbay with the Belleisle, French Frigate (From Contemporary Etching.) .... 312 Old House near St. Salvator's 316 ST. ANDREWS CHAPTER I THE BEGINNINGS That St. Andrews ever became a city of historical importance, of romantic interest, and of size rela- tively considerable, was assuredly not due to its situation. Standing on a bleak and windy promon- tory, in a remote nook severed from the main part of the kingdom by two wide firths, without a river, and with only such a harbour as the mouth of a small burn supplies, it seems cut off from every source of greatness. The treeless and shelterless slopes be- hind it offer no amenity, and our ancestors boasted no such love of the picturesque as to choose a site merely because it had an excellent view of the sea, of the estuary of the Eden, and of the distant Grampians. Possibly, the sea once rose higher, vary- ing traditions say that the level has risen and fallen, and Eden mouth may once have supplied a harbour. But the whole of the east coast is perilous. As 2 ST. ANDEEWS Caxon says in The Antiquary, 'This is a fearfu' coast to cruise on in thae eastern gales — the head- lands rin sae far out, that a veshell's embayed afore I could sharp a razor ; and then there's nae harbour or city of refuge on our coast, a' craigs and breakers. A veshell that runs ashore wi' us fiees asunder like the powther when I shake the plufF.' St. Andrews bay, in particular, is a mere trap for ships in easterly storms. Yet the place throve in the middle ages, throve till the Eeformation, and in its quiet way has thriven in the present century. Looking forth on the sea from the height above the harbour, one naturally asks questions about the making of St. Andrews. We glance asfar back aslegend will carry us, to the age when the region was called Muckross (' Eoss ' as in ' the Eoss of Mull '), ' the pro- montory of the wild swine.' Still the breakers were rolling white on the razor-edged rocks, the far-off hills were blue beyond the yellow sands of the bay. But the region must have been uncultivated, covered, probably, with brushwood, a haunt of the wild boar. How was it civilised, what charm brought half the world here ? . Hither came the companions of St. Columba, the Culdees, priestly fugitives from early England, pilgrims from Ireland, and, later, men and women famous in history, Malcolm the Maiden, Wallace, Edward I., Robert. Bruce ; Papal emissaries, THE BEGINNINGS Mary Stuart, Du Bartas, Cardan, Claverhouse and Montrose ; cardinals and martyrs, reformers and covenanters ; a hundred famous people down to Dr. ii uuft.f-** ■ NOETH STREET Johnson, and even to the noted people of to-day. What magnet drew them to this inhospitable coast ? It is a long history, and not of the easiest to un- ravel. To no natural advantages did St. Andrews 4 ST. ANDREWS owe her rise, but to causes purely spiritual and in- tellectual, to religion and learning. On this point history and legend are at one, though they vary much in their telling of the tale. Legend is shone upon by a heavenly light, is vocal with ' airy tongues that syllable men's names.' History is ob- scure ; at most she can find a point luminous, here and there, and discover a clue in the labyrinth of myth. We must follow as best we can the guidance of Mr. Skene : in the labyrinths of dim years, and changes ill recorded and half understood. Taking legend first ; we find three editions of a fable about the origin of St. Andrews which has two distinct shapes. The oldest form, it seems, is pre- served among the Colbertine MSS. in Paris. The second is in the Harleian MSS. in the British Museum, a document not old, but copied from an older, now lost. The third is in the Breviary of Aberdeen. Now those myths were some of them made here by the priests of St. Andrews, and not without a purpose. The older tale was intended to account for the early monastic church of St. Andrews, with monks and an abbot ; the latter for the later form of the Church, with a bishop, presbyters, and deacons. Both stories are mythical, both take for granted that St. Andrews ' In Cell ic SmUmiil, vol. ii. (Edinburgh : Douglas, 1877); and in l'rocefilings Scot. Sue. of Antiquaries, iv. 800. THE BEGINNINGS 5 is St. Andrews. Both must be later than our actual possession of supposed relics of St. Andrew, but there was a Christian establishment here before the relics of St. Andrew came, before St. Andrews was St. Andrews. The older version of the fable runs thus : St. Andrew the Apostle, after divers adventures, was crucified at Patras, where he still has a church. There his holy bones rested till the times of Con- stantine and his sons, when they were carried to their shrine at Constantinople, where they reposed for a century and ten years. At that date Ungus (731-761), king of the Picts, was ravaging the Merse, and was in danger of being destroyed by a general rising of the natives. As he walked, sadly enough, in thought, a divine light surrounded him, and a voice proclaimed the presence of St. Andrew. By the visible Sign of the Cross the Saint offered victory — for a consideration — the gift of a tenth of the king's substance to the glory of God, and of the Saint. Ungus accepted, vowed, and was victorious. Now at that very time an unnamed guardian of the bones of St. Andrew in Constantinople had a vision, bidding him go to a land that would be shown him. He set out and arrived here : at Eigmund, ' the king's Mount.' Another vision, or the same repeated, be- fell Ungus ; and a blind man, healed by miracle, led the monarch to a certain place, where Eegulus, a 6 ST. ANDREWS monk, a pilgrim from Constantinople, met the king, with the relics of St. Andrew. Ungus gave the place of meeting, St. Andrews, to God and the Saint, to be the metropolis of all Pictish churches. So here abode Eegulus, abbot and monk, serving God with his company, and here lies his body. It is plain that two legends have been stitched inartistically together. Eegulus comes in unawares as if uncon- nected with the nameless guardian of the relics. The second form of the myth l declares that, on the arrival of Constantine at Patras, an angel com- manded Eegulus to carry off certain bones of Saint Andrew, and conceal them. Hungus, or Ungus, the king, has his vision — beside the Tyne. An angel bids Eegulus sail forth, with the relics, till he is wrecked. He is wrecked, very naturally, in St. Andrews Bay, ' at a place once called Muckross (Swine point), but now Kilrimont' (the cell of the king's mount : Cellrighmonaidh). After various ad- ventures, Hungus gives Kilrimont to Eegulus ' as a place of churches,' and lays a turf, the symbol of grants of land, on the altar of St. Andrew. In this legend Eegulus is a bishop, in the former he was a monk and abbot. The first myth accounts for a monastic foundation, the second for the foundation of a church, with secular clergy. 1 PrinU'.l in Chronicle of l'icts and Scots, p. 183. THE BEGINNINGS 7 As to Eegulus, there is an historical Eiagail or Eegulus, an Irishman from the Shannon's shore, a contemporary of St. Columba. That saint, of a royal Irish family, was born December 7, 521. He founded many monasteries, resembling clusters of bothies, or wattled Zulu kraals. In 561 Columba egged people on to a battle in Connaught, or was re- ported to have done so, and was exiled, or left Ire- land for political and religious reasons. He sailed to Iona (563), where his establishments do not concern us. He died in 597, and his missionaries reached the East coast. Of his companion Eegulus or Eiagail, we learn that he really dwelt in Ireland at Muicinis, the ' Isle of Swine.' Muicross, in Fifeshire (Muckros) in the second legend, means, as we said, ' The Promontory of Swine.' Eiagail is commemorated on October 16, our Eegulus on October 17. The chances are, as Mr. Skene says, that the two Eeguli are one Eegulus, and that the historic Eegulus belonged to a Columban Church, founded among those which Columba established in the lands of the Southern Picts during the last years of his life. St. Columba had a friend named Cainnech, or Kenneth, of Pictish descent, who ' appears to have founded a monastery in the east end of the province of Fife, not far from where the river Eden pours its waters into the German Ocean 8 ST. ANDREWS at a place called Rig Monadh, or the royal mount, which afterwards became celebrated as the site on which the church of St. Andrews was founded, and as giving to that church its Gaelic name of Kilrimont.' This would be about 584-597. 1 The Eiagail, or Eegulus, of the legend may have been a companion of Cainnech. This Eegulus, at all events, is our Saint Eule, who gives his name to the great tower of St. Andrews, and probably had a church dedi- cated to him here before St. Andrew was thus honoured. The date of the historic Eegulus is about 573-600 a.d. But the King Ungus of the legend reigned from 731 to 761. In the last year (761) according to a chronicle 2 — ' Ye relikis of St. Andrew ye Apostle cam in Scotland.' Thus there was probably a Eegulus here, but he was an Irishman, not a native of Patras, and he had nothing to do with the relics of St. Andrew. There was a Hungus, or Ungus, a victorious Pictish king, but he had nothing to do with Eegulus. The two are blended by legend into one story, as Charles Martel is blended with Karl, the great emperor, in the heroic French poetry of the Middle Ages. So we gradually emerge from the sea of myth on to the rocky shore of history. As for the relics ' Celtic Seollon,!, vol. ii. i>. 137. ' 2 Chronicle 1'icls church at Berwick. Such may have been the scholastici who welcomed 1 Burton's History of Scotland, vol. ii. p. 14. - Edited by Kuno Mover. Nutt, 1SU2. THE ST. ANDREWS OF THE BISHOPS 31 Eadmer. In spite of his popular reception, Eadmer was unhappy here. He was never consecrated, Alexander refusing, in the interests of his church's freedom, to let the ceremony be performed either by York or by Canter- bury. Eadmer, on the other hand, asserted the primacy of Canterbury, resting on Pope Gregory's commission to St. Austin over all Britain and Ireland. Finally he took the ring representing secular power from Alexander, and the crosier of spiritual dominion he lifted from the high altar of the church. Thurstan of York then claimed the privilege of consecrating Eadmer, and won both the English king and Pope Calixtus II. to his right of consecrating all Scottish bishops. King Alexander showed but cold favour to Eadmer, who finally resigned and returned to Canterbury. The next bishop, the most important of our early bishops, was Eobert, who had been prior of the Augustinian monastery at Scone. He was appointed in 1124 by Alexander, but not consecrated till after that monarch's death. To please David I., Alex- ■ ander's successor, Thurstan of York, consecrated Eobert, without prejudice to the rights of the Church of Scotland. This consecration was not performed till 1128, four years after the death of Alexander in 1124. 32 ST. ANDREWS Alexander's object throughout had been to connect his church duty with that of Eome, without admit- ting any shadow of claim of English supremacy in spiritual matters. Alexander behaved with liberality to the church here by bestowing on it (if we may believe Boethius and Wyntoun) the tract of land called the Cursus Apri, or Boar's Chase, comprising, it seems, the modern parishes of St. Andrews, St. Leonards, Den- ino, Cameron, and Kemback. The name Boar's Chase, if one may venture a guess, probabby referred only to the old Celtic name, Muckross, ' promon- tory of swine,' which covered a great extent of country. But Boethius, that pillar of falsehood, as Monk- barns calls him, tells a tale of a prodigious Caledo- nian boar, which devastated the district, and was slain, as in Calydon, by ' an armed multitude.' The boar's tusks, like the bricks in Shakespeare, were ' alive to testify to it,' in Boethius's time (lo"20\ and were attached by small silver chains ad sellas divi Andrece in the Cathedral. It is probable enough that relics of a mighty boar were preserved in the Cathedral, and that a myth connected them with the name of the ' Boaris Chare.' The City arms are a boar tied to a tree, and this, too, we associate with Muckross. THE ST. ANDREWS OF THE BISHOPS 33 Ever since Vishnu took the avatar of a boar, that animal has had an extraordinary habit of being in at the beginning of things. There is a similar boar in the legend of Queen's College, Oxford, and a ' Boarhills ' near the English University town. 1 Wyntoun, writing of course long after the event, speaks of the donation of the Boar's Chase — The Boaris chace in regale To the kyrk the king gave hale, The quhilh the canons, with his intent, Sulci have had ; but by consent Of the byshop mycht nocht be Gotten to that, in na kind gre. Mr. Lyon interprets this to mean that Alexander intended to endow the proposed priory, here, with the lands, while the new and as yet unconsecrated Bishop Bobert wanted them for his bishopric. But Bobert was particularly interested in the priory ; he had himself been prior of the Augustinian monastery at Scone. Whatever Alexander meant by his donation, he made it with singular splendour of ceremony. His ' comely steed of Araby ' with costly trappings, with ' armour of Turkey,' a silver shield and spear and other jewels, was brought, as a gift, to the altar. In what church was this spectacle given ? Probably, if Bobert really built St. Bule's, in the old church of the Culdees. The spear was made into a cross, was 1 Boarshill, near St. Andrews, is a corruption of another name. D 34 ST. ANDREWS extant in 1430, in Bower's time, and probably lay among the jewels of the church till John Knox came with the besom of destruction. Eobert was infinitely the most important, locally, of our early prelates, especially if we agree with Dr. Joseph Eobertson that he endowed St. Andrews with its chief architectural monument, the least damaged, the most conspicuous, the great tower of St. Eule's. Even from Leuchars the traveller hither by railway sees St. Eule's dominating the broken towers of the Cathedral. This remarkable monument has been the puzzle of antiquaries. Analogies have been sought in the early campaniles of Italy, and in the round towers of Abernethy and Brechin, which are attributed to the eighth and tenth centuries. Dr. Eobertson, how- ever, identifies the great tower and the little church attached to it with ' a small basilica ' reared by Bishop Eobert between 1127 and 1144. The tower may have been useful as a place of vantage and defence. According to Martine l it originally pos- sessed a steeple ; such a tower, with a steepled top, is represented on the chapter-seal. 2 A more impor- tant innovation was made by Bishop Eobert. He had 1 BeliquicE Divi Andrew, 1C83. '' Mr. Henry, architect in St. Andrews, argues, with much proba- bility, that Bishop Hubert found St. Hide's already in existence, that ho built the lirst priory on its southern side, and cut a door in its south wall to give his monks access to the little ancient church. THE ST. ANDREWS OF THE BISHOPS 35 been Prior of the Canons Eegular of Scone, a body lately introduced into Scotland. In 1144 he founded the priory for the same canons in St. Andrews, granting them two of the seven shares (pre- viously held by laymen) of the St. A.ndrews altarage, and he also granted them the hospitium for pil- grims, with its seventh share. King David added the gift of a charter for incorporating the Culdees. Any of those gentlemen who wish it may become canons regular. On the deaths of such as are re- luctant, their revenues are to pass to the canons regular, and their places among the Culdees are not to be filled up. Three years later Pope Eugenius III. deprived the Culdees of their right to elect the bishop, and transferred it to the canons regular. The Culdees, however, did not desist from attempts to urge their claims, but went on resisting these novel- ties till 1273. Between 1156 and 1162 all the altarage of the church was bestowed on the canons regular. Thus the priory became the wealthiest of all Scotch religious houses, and the prior took rank above all abbots, bearing ring, mitre, and episcopal symbols generally. The Culdee society, last mentioned by name in 1332, changed, as we • saw, into the Provostry of St. Mary of the Eock, or of Kirkheugh, a society of a provost and ten pre- D 2 30 ST. ANDREWS bendaries, and their church of St. Mary of the Eock became a Chapel Eoyal. In 1160 the priory of Bishop Eobert was erected on the southern side of the Cathedral. No traces of all the sumptuous buildings remain ; a few stalls standing against a garden wall, fragments of cloisters, the stairs leading to the dormitory, and some humps of grass-covered masonry within the garden of a modern house, alone are visible. Some vaults existed in the last century, and still exist ; there was con- cealed a Jacobite fugitive after Culloden, and there Dr. Johnson found an old woman livinir anions- the ruins of a later priory. A conduit, paved and walled with stone, runs under the modern garden, below the road that leads from the beautiful arch of the THE ST. ANDKEWS OF TPIE BISHOPS 37 Pends, towards the harbour, and under an ancient kitchen in the grounds of the new Bishop's hall down to the mill-lead. Later we shall give an account of such buildings as survived the Eeformation, but perished before our time. Wyntoun, describing a visit of David I. to the rising priory, a visit in which he settled the Boar's Chase on the canons, speaks of ' such a cloister as then was, not sic as now is for largess ; ' for the dor- mitory and the refectory of his own day were not yet built : nor, of course, the Cathedral. The bishop yielded on the matter of the Boar's Chase being granted to the priory ' to found ther a religioun.' Bishop Bobert not only founded St. Bule's [if that view be accepted) and the priory, but he had St. Andrews elevated into a burgh, and brought in, from the then rich trading town of Berwick, one May- nard, a Fleming, to organise the commerce. Scotch, French, Flemish, and English merchants used the place ; the ships of that date being small and of light burden. Salted salmon was a great article of export ; objects of luxury were imported. The town never had a higher place than eighth or ninth, in wealth and population, among towns of Scotland. Bobert was succeeded, 1159, by Arnold, Abbot of Kelso ; he was consecrated by William, Bishop of Moray, the Pope's legate. His power in that capacity 38 ST. ANDREWS he transferred to the new bishop. Arnold ruled but one year and ten months ; he founded, however, the cathedral, or abbey kirk, for the religious services of the priory. The buildings began, naturally, at the eastern end ; one hundred and fifty-eight years was that temple in building, and it practically perished in one day ! Arnold's successor, Eichard, after a good deal of trouble with York, was consecrated by Scot- tish bishops in 1165. In his time, 1174, "William the Lion acknowledged the supremacy of England by the treaty of Falaise, a cession renounced by Eichard Lion-heart in 1189. But, be it observed, the Scotch bishops did not acquiesce, even at Falaise, in the dependence of their church. They only admitted that it was to be as much subordinate as it had been, that is, in their opinion, not at all. The Scotch bishops procured a bull from Pope Alexander III. forbidding the see of York to claim supremacy, or Scotland to yield it, till Eome decided the question. At St. Andrews Eichard was busy in protecting the plasterers, masons, stone-cutters, and other workmen engaged on the Cathedral. They were to be under the commands of a canon of the priory, and were to buy necessaries as freely as any burgess. If we could see what was passing in that day, we should probably find many foreigners among the workmen. Probably the buildings of the town were all of wood, THE ST. ANDREWS OF THE BISHOPS 39 or even of wattled boughs filled up with turf. Stone work was not yet used in domestic architecture, though familiar in ecclesiastical edifices. Into the lowest range of stones in the Cathedral, on the inner side of the remaining eastern wall, are built several stones adorned with Celtic patterns ; one of them is the shaft of a cross. A similar stone long lay as a foot-bridge across a rivulet, and is now in the College Museum. These fragments were pro- bably taken from some older Culdee church, and the use made of them as mere building material speaks ill for the reverence of the masons and the directing canon. We may imagine the murmurings of the Culdees ! The Cathedral was finally to suffer the same fate, was to become a quarry, and Martine specially mentions a house in North Street, built out of stones from the Cathedral, and therefore un- lucky to its owners. Richard's death was followed by a tedious dis- puted succession (1178-1188). The chapter chose as bishop John Scott, an Oxford and Cambridge man, the archdeacon. King William wanted the place for his chaplain, Hugh. His candidate was elected. John appealed to the Pope, who caused him to be consecrated. The king, however, held on to the revenues. The end was a compromise. Hugh kept St. Andrews ; Scott got the bishopric of Dunkeld. 40 ST. ANDREWS The king fought a sturdy fight, replying to excom- munication by a threat to banish all who regarded the papal injunction as binding. An interdict was issued, that awful ecclesiastical boycott, but William, on the whole, had the better of the war, and carried his point. Hugh was succeeded by Eoger, son of the Earl of Leicester, and cousin of the king (1188-1202). In 1200 he did a thing of immense importance : he built, as his residence, the Castle of St. Andrews, on the crest of a rocky cliff, some three hundred yards west of the Cathedral. A castle is a thoroughly Norman institution, and castles were scarce in Scotland. Again and again has Roger's fortress been rased ; as, a century later, when Englishmen held it, by Sir Andrew Murray ; once more after the siege sustained by the murderers of Cardinal Beaton, and it certainly fell into ruin in the Cromwellian times. The present ruins do not cover nearly all the space which the castle has occupied, and there are traces of foundations in the grounds of the modern villa called Castlecliff. There was trouble, as usual, over Roger's consecration, which was long delayed. He was succeeded by William Mal- voisin (1202-1238), translated from Glasgow. He left no special mark on St. Andrews, though he went on with the building of the Cathedral. He was fol- lowed by David of Bernham (1238, or 1240-1252), THE ST. ANDBEWS OF THE BISHOPS 41 ' an honest clerk,' who crowned Alexander III. at Scone in 1249. His counter-seal was an ancient gem, Nymphs deriding Silenus. Concerning Bishop Abel (1253-54) the pleased historian notes that rare flower of those dimly recorded years, an anecdote. The prior and canons disliked him, and he took refuge in study. He is said to have scrawled, in chalk, on the gate of the rising church, Baec mihi sunt tria, lex, canon, philosophia. Apparently tria rhymes to philosophy. This brag of his knowledge and skill did not pass unreproved. A canon, perhaps, wrote next day, Te levant absque tria, fraus, favor, vanosophia. ' This did so gall him as, taking bed, he died within a few days.' He must have been a very sensitive student. The anecdote is neither early nor plausible. Under Bishop Gameline (1254-1271) Alexander III. entertained the specious idea recommended by Mark Twain to the Italians, ' "Why don't you rob your Church ? ' This is always a resource, but the times were not ripe. The King reckoned without the Pope, who, writing in 1254, forbids 'our dearly beloved the illustrious King of Scotland, or any other person, to seize the property of the said Church of St. Andrews, they,' as he adds with some naivete, 42 ST. ANDKEWS 'having no right to the same.' The Pope also urged Henry III. not to stand by and see it done ; but Henry took Alexander's side, and proposed to arrest Gameline for obtaining certain requests at Eome to ' the prejudice of our beloved and faithful son Alexander, King of Scotland, who is married to our daughter.' In 1259 Pope Alexander was still backing Gameline and forbidding the Scotch king to rob St. Andrews. Mr. Lyon, as naif as the Pope, thinks that Alexander died without surviving offspring — except one granddaughter, who also died in child- hood — because he had interfered with Church property. Gameline was succeeded by Bishop Wishart, who founded the monastery of the Black Friars, or Dominicans, Domini canes, who howled against heresy. In a couple of centuries they had abundance of occupation ; but in June 1559 John Knox harangued the mob for three days, after which effort of oratory the Black Friars monastery was gutted ' before the sunn was downe. Ther was never inch standing bot bare walls.' Mr. Hay Fleming says that old people remember when part of the monastic building was occupied as a dwelling-house. Nothing remains but a small ivy-clad ruin, not of the first foundation, in the ' yards ' of the Madras College. Mr. Hay Fleming adds that ' in times not very remote it con- tained a pigstye.' THE ST. ANDREWS OF THE BISHOPS 43 The bishop rebuilt the east end of the Cathedral, which the east wind had wrestled with success- fully- The body of the kyrk thus he In all things gart be biggyt weel. Wyntoun remarks that his part of the edifice may ^m* BLACK FBIAES CHAPEL be recognised ' by affinity,' that is, by congruity of style which changes from the round to the pointed. ' He roofed what he built — eight bays of the nave — and also erected the west front ' (Hay Fleming). His successor, Bishop Fraser (1279-97), lived in the 44 ST. ANDREWS time of the English claim of supremacy, and was, perhaps, a somewhat shifty politician. We now reach a point in history where our bishops became of high political and national import- ance. Alexander III. died in 1285; his heir was Margaret, daughter of Eric, King of Xorway, and Margaret was a child. She died in September 1290, on her way to Scotland. Here, then, we find Scot- land first in the confusion of a minority ; next dis- tracted by a doubtful succession. The position recurs in the reign of Henry VIII. of England, and with it recurred to Henry's mind the policy of prac- tically uniting the kingdoms. This Edward I. about 1290 would have done by getting his supremacy acknowledged. Henry attempted to reach the result by various marriage projects. In both periods it was the higher clergy of Scotland who supported the cause of national independence. Cardinal Beaton resists Henry as, two hundred and fifty years before, Lamberton, bishop of St. Andrews, resisted Edward ; but, while Lamberton is a Scottish patriot, Beaton's memory is detested by many patriotic Scots. The reason, of course, is that the later champion of Scotch national freedom was a Catholic, and a foe ot the Reformation. In both junctures the English policy, if admitted, would have saved infinite blood- shed and suffering, would have secured to Scotland THE ST. ANDREWS OF THE BISHOPS 45 peace, wealth, opportunities of learning, and, in the case of Henry VIII., would have mitigated the havoc of the Scottish reformation and obtained a due provision for the Eeformed Church. The national resistance under Wallace, Bruce, and Lamberton changed Scotland from a comparatively prosperous country, with inklings of civilisation, into a starved, fierce, and half-barbarous realm. Civilisation was cramped by the endless hostilities with England. The Eeformation again, conducted as it was, be- queathed to Scotland a disastrous legacy, the turmoil of the Solemn League and Covenant, innumerable blood-feuds, horrors uncounted, a stinted kirk, beggarly universities, and a fierce, dissatisfied temper of which we may never see the last. Yet few Scotchmen, probably, would exchange the glories of Bannockburn and of the War of Independence for the comfortable results of submission to Edward I. ; and many are proud of the centuries of civil war, turmoil, and dispeace, which were the legacy of the Eeformation. To return from this general view, Bishop William Fraser (1279-1297) was one of the six guardians of Scotland, between the death of Alexander III. and the death of Margaret. A letter from Fraser to Edward I. was written at Leuchars, near St. Andrews, in 1290, after the news of the child 4G ST. ANDREWS queen's death arrived. Fraser says that Eobert Bruce (grandfather of King Eobert I.) is up in arms, that civil war is to be dreaded ; though later news denies the death of the queen. If she does not survive, Fraser begs Edward to come in force to the border ' to console our people and hinder the effusion LEUCHAES KIRK of blood ' by the rival claimants. The bishop mani- festly favours Baliol, and even hints that Baliol should obey Edward's commands. ' Anything for a peaceful life ' may have been the bishop's motto, but Edward, like Henry VIII. later, was demanding to be put into possession of certain Scotch strongholds. This could not be popular in Scotland. THE ST. ANDREWS OF THE BISHOPS 47 In J 297 Fraser died in Paris, but his heart was brought home and buried in the ' kirk conventional,' the Cathedral. In 1296 Edward I. passed a day, August 11, at St. Andrews, in the course of overrunning Scotland. The Diary of his expedition briefly says : ' Saturday, to the city of Seynt Andrew, a castell, and a good toune.' On Edward's return to England, whither he carried the sacred stone of Scone and the Black Eood with a portion of the true cross, Wallace arose suddenly, and began his brief career. The chronicler Knyghton tells us that when Wallace came to St. Andrews, three Englishmen fled ' in lapidem ilium qui dicitur petra vel acus Sancti Andreas,' 'to a stone called St. Andrews needle, or rock.' The Scotch followed and murdered them, but what the rock was, whether the Spindle Eock on the eastern bay, or not, is not ascertained. Wallace himself, according to the dubious au- thority of Blind Harry, turned out of St. Andrews the bishop sent thither by Edward ; the bishop fled by sea. He must have been William Cumyn, brother of the Earl of Buchan, and provost of that old Ouldee establishment, Kirkheugh. As a Cumyn, he was opposed to Bruce and Wallace, and in later years he was still being supported by Edward at Eome. 48 ST. ANDREWS Edward settled Wallace by the victory of Fal- kirk. And into Fife he went, and brent it clene, And Andrew's town he wasted then full plene. Now, too, he probably garrisoned the bishop's castle with English troops. But in St. Andrews he had to do with William of Lamberton (1298-1328), the patriot bishop and friend of Bruce. Lamberton's election had been opposed in the old Culdee Kirk- heugh interest ; the Culdees elected their provost, Cumyn, whom Wallace expelled ; the canons regular chose Lamberton. The Pope decided against the Culdees, and this was practically their last effort. But Lamberton, seeing that Edward supported his rival Cumyn, was naturally induced to be a patriot and stand by Wallace, and, later, by Bruce. Wallace, indeed, kept Lamberton as a kind of am- bassador in France. 1 Lamberton was working for his see, as well as for his country. If Edward were victorious, Lamberton would probably lose his re- venues. In Lent, 1304, Edward held a parliament at St. Andrews, and almost all the nobles took oaths to be his men. At this time the siege of Stirling, held by Olifant for Scotland, was being prosecuted, and Edward stripped the lead from our Cathedral roof to make weights for his siege-engines. Again the 1 Burton, ii. 80 3. THE ST. ANDREWS OF THE BISHOPS 49 roof was stripped of its lead, after the Eeformation, ' the last poor plunder of a ruined church,' but Edward, at least, paid for what he took. He paid 96Z. 15s. to the Bishop of Brechin and our prior. 1 Lamberton's own motives for taking a decisive step by allying himself with Bruce were probably mixed, like those of other statesmen. In his position, a bishop with a tenure of office which England dis- puted, he was not likely to applaud any scheme of dependence on England. In June 1304, therefore, he entered into a 'band' with Bruce, a private alliance, defensive and offensive. In later years, above all in the anarchy which followed the Scotch Eeformation, such bands were common documents, especially when murder was in the air. In the case of Bruce and Lamberton the contracting parties only bind themselves, in general terms, to co-operation. Neither is to undertake any serious enterprise with- out consulting the other. They confirm their league by a solemn oath, but oaths, as we shall see, were nothing to Lamberton. Long before this date, as in the notorious instance of Harold, oaths had been strengthened by a kind of magical ceremony, the touching of relics. But, as the Church sanctioned and devised the oaths, so she knew how to evade them. Oath-taking and oath-breaking became a fine 1 Burton, ii. 330. E 50 ST. ANDREWS art. Most men, however devout, had one special oath which they dared not break, as in the familiar in- stance of Louis XL When their one sacred oath was discovered, it meant financial and political ruin, as nobody would be satisfied with any other sanction, and the politician was compelled to keep his pro- mises. Our Bishop Lamberton, like Autolycus in Homer, 1 ' outdid all men at the oath,' or in skill in swearing. He several times perjured himself when he took oaths to Edward on the Black Eood, with its fragment of the true cross. Bruce, therefore, added to the oath a pecuniary penalty for its in- fringement — a penalty of 10,000^., to be devoted to the conquest of the Holy Land. 2 Bruce's ambition had in Lamberton a powerful ally. The Church, Mr. Burton reckons, could call to arms about a third of the fighting men in the country. The affair of the band, or of some other similar engagement, came to Edward's ears ; Bruce knew he was suspected, he fled from London through the snow (1305-6), and rode, like Dick Turpin, to the North. In the Church of the Grey Friars of Dumfries, he met the Eed Cumyn, and dirked his rival in front of the altar. Cumyn he suspected, per- haps, of betraying the band with Lamberton ; Cumyn's claims to the Scotch succession were also incon- 1 Odijwij, xix. ;i!Ki. - ralo-rave. Documents, p. 323. THE ST. ANDKEWS OF, THE BISHOPS 51 venient. Thus Bruce's patriotic career began in murder and sacrilege. But, as Mr. Burton remarks, the Scotch of that age ' were not ardent devotees of religion.' Bruce had the Church in Scotland on his side, as our bishop was his friend, and it does not appear that Lamberton was staggered by the confes- sion of his remarkable penitent. Wyntoun reports the bishop, when he heard of the occurrence, to have said : — I hope Sir Thomas his prophecy Of Ercildomie verified be In him ; for so, our Lord help me, I have great hopes he shall be kyng, And have this land all in leading. The Pope bade York and Canterbury excommuni- cate Bruce, but Lamberton was quite unmoved. The gauntlet was now thrown down to Edward ; the people were rising against the English garrisons. Bruce was holding in force his castles of Lochmaben and Kildrummy. Lamberton promised to crown Bruce ; he per- haps was aware that he ran little personal risk from the devout Edward, who was no slayer of priests. His confidence was justified. He had in his Castle of St. Andrews (which was occupied by an English garrison) no less a person than Sir James Douglas, ' the Black Douglas,' then a young man. Douglas's father's estates had been forfeited by Edward ; he, E 2 52 ST. ANDREWS therefore, determined to join Bruce, and he consulted the bishop as to how he might escape. Lamberton advised him to steal his own horse from the stable, strike down the groom if he resisted, and fly. The advice was acted on, and Douglas joined Bruce on his way to Scone. Here, on March 27, 1306, Lamberton crowned the slayer of Cumyn. The sacred stone of Scottish royalty had been carried off by Edward, ' but the Bishop of St. Andrews,' as Mr. Burton says sardonically, ' contrived to make some show of other pomps from his episcopal wardrobe.' After Bruce's defeat at Methven, Lamberton fell into the hands of the English, and was carried from castle to castle, till he was warded in Nottingham. His daily allowance is reckoned, by Mr. Lyon, at fifteen shillings of modern money ; he had a servant, a serving boy, and a chaplain to say mass. Edward had done what Henry VIII. vainty desired to do with Cardinal Beaton : he had interned in England the chief clerical defender of Scotch independence. Edward, writing to the Pope, accused our bishop of extreme ' skill in the oath.' In 1296 he forswore himself on 1. The consecrated Host. 2. The Gospels. 3. The Cross Neyth. 4. The Black Hood of Scotland. This was hard swearing. THE ST. ANDREWS OE THE BISHOPS 53 In 1303-4 he perjured himself again, and yet again to Aylmer de Valence. Edward I. died in 1307 ; in 1308 Edward II. was allowing Lamberton 1001. a year out of his revenues. Id August Edward released him ; this time he swore on the cross Neyth, or Gnayth, a piece of the true cross. The simple Edward II. now expected aid from our bishop, who, next year, was presiding over a clerical assembly in support of Bruce ! In 1314 Bannockburn was fought, and Edward soon after forgave Lamberton, and gave him a free pass to go abroad. Lamberton could now attend to the needs of St. Andrews. He repaired his castle, out of which the English had been driven. He built the new chapter house, adorned with curious seats and ceil- ings. The seats, each under its pointed arch, remain to this day. He added to the library in which the learned canons composed the Legend of St. Andrews. He erected ten new churches, and, above all, he finished and dedicated the Cathedral (July 5, 1318). This may be called the high day of St. Andrews, and the crown of the city's career. Eobert Bruce himself (under an excommunication which gave him little concern) was present — the king with the strong savage face, which craniologists have compared to that of a carnivorous beast, and to the thrice ancient Neanderthal skull. There doubtless were the brave 54 ST. ANDREWS Eandolp'h, and the chivalrous Douglas, who followed the hero's heart into the press of battle, and died above it. There were seven bishops, and abbots fifteen, ' and many other gret gentilmen.' Their raiment must have been gorgeous, for they were pro- bably clad, and the Cathedral was enriched, with the spoils of Bannockburn, wealth of tapestries, of plate, of cloth of gold. Shortly before the Eeformation the Cathedral of Aberdeen still possessed many rich robes ' ex spolio conflictus de Bannockburne,' and some of that wonderful spoil appears in the inven- tories of Queen Mary's jewels. 1 Fancy alone can reproduce the splendour of the scene where the thrice perjured prelate dedicates the Church in pre- sence of the excommunicated king. History, as usual in those days, gives us no details. Fancy must draw her own picture of the Cathedral, portions of it already grey with the years, and gnawed by the salt winds, parts fresh and shining white with new- cut stone. We learn from Martine, writing more than a hundred years after Knox's day of destruction, that the church had ' five pinnacles and a great steeple on the top of the Church,' the steeple, probably, which Knox saw from his bench in the galleys. ' At the 'Burton, vol. ii. p. :-!H(i ; Robertson's Preface to Inventories of Quern Mary's Jewels (Banntitvue Club). THE ST. ANDEEWS OF THE BISHOPS 55 place where the main and- cross Church did meet there were four pillars greater than the rest, some- thing easterly of the middle of the Church. Upon these great pillars stood the chief steeple of the Church, erected a great deal larger and higher than any of the rest.' All this had fallen long before 1683. The roof was ' covered with copper,' accord- ing to Martine, a statement not generally accepted, and shone far out to sea. The full length Martine reckons at 370 feet ; the breadth of the main church at 65 feet. The prior's house, or Hospitium Veins, repaired by Lamberton, stood on the south side. ' It hath been a great house.' "West of this, in the direction of St. Leonard's, was the Cloister, and a quadrangle in which the yearly Senzie Fair was held for fifteen days after Easter. In Martine's time the Senzie House, called also ' the sub-Prior's House,' was quite entire, with a hall and chambers, a charter-house, a little old chapel, used as a stable. The Senzie Chamber was made the library of St. Leonard's College. This was burned in the eighteenth century, but the walls of it and the Senzie House existed, and the Senzie House was inhabited when Grierson wrote in 1805. Afterwards all was demolished ; a commonplace modern house, The Priory, was built on the site, a hot-house, with its smoking chimney, was erected 56 ST. ANDREWS against the outside of the south wall of the Cathedral. The arches leading to the Cloisters were walled up with brick, on which fruit trees are trained. Thus ft Hi , j, ->