FABRICi fitttSSART ^tva fork ^tatc QJoUtgf of J^grtcuUurc JVt (JorneU lUtiuccaUii 3tliaca. ?J. g. Cornell University Library TS 1625.B4 Woolen and worsted fabrics glossary ; con 3 1924 003 598 756 ^Or-'IHIGHTED, 1914, BY FRANK P. BENNETT & CO., Inc. Woolen and Worsted Glossary CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANUFAC- TURE OF EVERY KNOWN GRADE AND VARIETY OF WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS. Textile Fibres students of the woolen and worsted industries wtio desire to obtain a fairly compreliensive knowledge of the subject must not only learn the va- rious processes of manufacture by means of whicli the numerous vari- eties and grades of stock are trans- formed into finished fabrics, but should also inform tliemselves as to the animals from whicli the wool and hair are derived. The nature and structure of the various fibres, the countries and climates inhabited by different types of sheep and other producers of the fibres used in cloth making should be studied. The do- mesticated sheep, whose ancestors once roamed wild over the mountains of Southern Europe, is the principal and MOST IMPORTANT source of supply, and the various breeds furnish wools from the finest Saxony to the extremely low-grade, coarse and hair-like carpet wools. In Its wild state the fleece of the sheep was thickly interspersed with long, coarse, hair-like fibres, but care and attention to breeding has practically eliminated these, and in well-bred flocks they have disappeared rapidly. Sheep are commonly classified as long and short wooled varieties, a peculiar feature connected with the classifica- tion being the fact that the physical characteristics of these divisions show as great divergence as do the fleeces. The long-wooled varieties are usually of large body, while the short-wooled sheep are smaller, and lighter in weight, often with brown or black face and legs. Some of the best-known varieties of long-wooled sheep are the Cotswolds, Lincolns and Leicesters. LINCOLNS THE HEAVIEST. Of these the Linc:olns produce the heaviest fleece and the longest wool, a not unusual weight for a single fleece being IS to 20 pounds with a staple 20 inches in length. The Cotswold usu- ally averages about ten pounds to the fleece, but much heavier fleeces ara not at all uncommon. The Leicester is somewhat smaller than the two previously named breeds, with a shorter and lighter fleece. The varieties of short-wooled sheep best known, perhaps, are the South- down, Hampshire Downs and Shrop- shires of the English breeds, the Sax- ony of Germany and the various merino types scattered over the world. The Saxony wool is the finest in the world. The fibre is covered WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY with innumerable fine scales or serra- tions, which make it a particularly good felting wool. Australian wools are of excellent quality, the finest termed Botany, then Port Philip, Sidney and Adelaide. These are all of the merino type, as many years. The shrinkage of these wools is very heavy, in some instances being as high as 75 per cent or more. This is not due entirely to the natu- ral grease or yolk contained in the wool, but to the large amount of dirt and foreign matter which clings to HA ' i Lincoln Ewe. are the domestic wools of the United States. The principal classes of DOMESTIC WOOLS are the fleece wools, or, as they are sometimes termed, washed fleeces, bright wools, territories, Texas and Californias. Oftentimes the bright wools are included with the fleeces, though of a somewhat different char- acter. The Ohio, Pennsylvania and Michigan fleeces approximate very closely the Australian wools in fine- ness and felting properties, while the bright wools are slightly coarser and more lustrous. The territory wools are about the same grade as the fleeces, the name being derived from the fact that they are produced in the states in the West and Northwest which were under territorial government for the fibre. Texas wools are fine and felt readily, as do the Californias. A considerable portion of the CROSSBRED WOOLS are grown in South America, though the ilontevideo is fine and resembles the Australian in character. Asiatic wools are, for the most part, very coarse, and are used to a great ex- tent for carpets. Next in importance to the sheep as a source of textile fibres is the Angora goat, whose fleece is known as mohair. This is a long, white, silky fibre with a bright metallic luster. An ex- tremely soft fibre is shorn from the cashmere goat and is invaluable for the production of certain types of soft, fine textiles. This animal is a native of a section of India, from VVOOLEiN AxN'D WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY which it receives its name. The al- paca is of the llama tribe, and is in- digenous to the mountainous regions of southern Peru. The fibre resembles mohair, and is especially distinguish- ed for its luster, softness and ex- treme length of staple. Another important fibre is camel's hair, tlie greater part of the supply comiiig from China and Russia, the fo:mer country furnishing a much su- perior grade. This stock is largely or imbrications of irregular sizes, overlapping each other, and tapering from root to tip. The growth is in a mass of fibres, termed locks, while hair grows, each fibre separate, with a smooth, fiat surface. The number and fineness of the serration of the wool fibre determine largely its felting properties, therefore, it will be read- ily understood that the preservation ot these imbrications intact during the manufacturing process is extremely •»•»'»•* my ,,^ ^ fC ^ — *». '.. American IVIerino Ram. used for combing, the noils being used for the manufacture of carded yarns for dress goods purposes. In recent years there has been a considerable quantity ot calves' hair used in mak- ing certain types of fabrics. There is a very material difference between the PHYSICAL STRUCTURE of wool and hair, and herein lies the vast difference in the action of the fibres during the process of manufac- ture. Wool is soft, wavy and curly, flexible and elastic, tender the mi- croscope it appears as a cylinder, with a surface covered with minute scales, important. In its natural condition these scales or serrations of the wool fibre lie very close to the body or main stem, but under the influence of moisture they become soft and pli- able and extend at an angle which permits the serrations of other fibres to become interlocked with them, forming a compact mass. An idea of the extreme fineness of the fibre may he gained from the fact that there are from 2.7011 to 2,Siiri serrations per inch in Saxony wool, while 1,900 fibres will lie side by side in one inch. In general, it may be said that the best wool is that having the most serrations per inch, and that such 8 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY wools possess the greatest felting properties, but there are exceptions. Under the microscope Cape wools apparently conform to all the require- ments of a fine felting wool, as does the Buenos Ayres, but the fulling value of these is much inferior to the Port Philip, which has a very similar mechanical structure. To the serra- tions and the fact that the center of the fibre is hollow is due the fact that wool has an exceptional capacity for absorbing and retaining coloring mat- ter. A very important and useful class of fibres are the so-called wool sired effects in woolen goods. Many very desirable fabrics are manufac- tured from mohair and camel's hair noil, the production of which would be impossible without their use. Thread waste is opered and teased apart into loose fibres by means of the garnett machine, and for manufac- turing purposes is far superior to much of the new wool. No little of the present agitation relative to the use of these wool substitutes is the work of tliose who have but a SUPERFICIAL KNOWLEDGE of the subject, and whose diatribes Angora Goat. substitutes. Many writers in the pub- lic press have attempted to create the impression that it is unnecessary and harmful to use these, but such is not the case, Thev each have a PIT AND PROPER PLACE in textile manufacture. Among the most valuable of these are the vari- ous by-products resulting from the manufacture of worsted yarns. Of these, noil is the short fibre removed by the comb, and is a very valuable stock for use in producing carded woolens. It is produced in a variety of grades, and is usually mixed with other stocks, though many times it is used alone for the production of de- should have absolutely no weight. Probably the statement of the case by the eminent English authority, Mc- Laren, is one of the best ever writ- ten. During the course of a lecture on textiles he said; "A few words must here be said on remanufactured fibres, known to the world under the common name of shoddy. There are few more unreasonable and foolish prejudices than that against shoddy, and so lar from it being a term of re- proach, it should really be one of praise, for ti:e man who first brought shoddy into use has conferred an in- calculable benefit on the world, and enabled millions of persons to be WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY warmly and cheaply clothed, who must otherwise be shivering with cold. It would be as unreasonable to despise paper makers because they use up linen rags, or dyers who use up col- ors made from coal tar as to despise manufacturers who use up waste woolen rags as shoddy. It is said No. 1, Medium Grade Wool Fibre. No. 2, Camel's Hair. No. 3, Kemp, or Diseased Fibre. No. 4, IVIerino. No. 5, Mohair. that 125,000,000 pounds of shoddy, mungo, etc., are manufactured into cloth every year in England alone. If this immense quantity were wasted, it is difficult to estimate the increase which would take place in the price of wool and the CONSEQUENT DEARNESS of cloth, but the rssult would be that countless persons would be unable to afford proper clothing." The stock known under the name of shoddy is manufactured from woolen rags, and is simply wool that has been used for manufacturing cloth, then reduced to fibre for the purpose of reman- utacturing. The staple is not so long as that of the original wool, but it may be used to good advantage in the pro- duction of many cloths. There are a variety of fabrics containing shoddy, whose wearing value would not be in the least improved were the shoddy replaced by the finest of fleece wool. Flocks are very short fibres, removed from the cloth by gigging, fulling or shearing. They are but little used ex- cept in the making of very low-grade goods. Card waste, as the name indicates. is made during the carding process, and is reworked into cheap fabrics. E-xtract is a form of shoddy made from rags containing cotton from which the vegetable fibres have been ex- tracted or removed by treatment with chemicals, usually sulphuric acid. This process, known as "car- bonizing," is also used to a consider- able extent tor freeing wool from burs and other vegetable impurities. The method in common use is to provide a lead-lined tank to hold the carboniz- ing bath, into which a cage contain- ing the material to be treated is low- ered and completely submerged for R suflicient length of time to allow the acid to thoroughly penetrate the mass. REGARDING THE BATH. The bath should be made with pure water, and acid suflicient to register from four to six degrees Twaddell. The cage is removed from the tank, the material extracted in an extractor used for no other purpose, with a galvanized basket, and provided with a suitable well, so that the liquor may be returned to the tank. The stock is then subjected to a heat of about ISO degrees Fahrenheit, which re- duces the vegetable matter to car- bon. From the dryer the stock is tak- en to the carbonizing duster, where it passes between crush rolls, reducing the impurities to powder, which the action of the fan and beater of the dusting machine effectually removes. Unless the stock is to be immediately dyed, it must have an alkali bath to neutralize the effect of the acid treat- ment. No reference has been made to fur, as this is a fibre seldom or never used in textile manufacturing except in the making of felts. Its physical structure is somewhat simi- lar to wool, having some imbrications and good felting qualities, but is not easily spun. Mungo is a fibre manufactured from hard felted woolens, such as broad- cloths, overcoatings, etc., and has very little length with practically no felting properties. It is, next to flocks, the lowest type of wool substitute which it is practical to use in cloth making. 10 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY Wool Sorting and Scouring The first operation through which wool passes in the course of manufac- ture is the sorting. This does not mean that the fleeces are separated according to quality, but that the in- dividual ones are spread upon a suit- able bench or table and the various grades of wool contained in each sep- arated from each other and placed in receptacles provided for that purpose. becomes so stiff that unless warmed the fleeces cannot be opened out flat on the bench without tearing them apart. The fleece of a sheep, after be- ing sheared and before sorting, re- sembles the form or shape of the sheeo. Figure 1 gives an idea of the various qualities or sorts that can be taken from a single fleece. It must be understood that wool from every variety and breed of sheep dlf- Figure 1. Variety of Wools in Position in Which They Grow. The tools required are few and sim- ple, aside from the bench with its screen top, which allows loose dirt, straw or other foreign matter to drop through, a pair of wool sorter's shears for clipping off paint, tar, or burrs, be- ing the only implement needed. During the colder months it will be necessary to provide a rack, with steam pipes underneath, on which the fleeces may be piled to warm before they are sorted. This is necessitated by the fact that in cold weather the yolk or natural grease in the wool fers according to whether the fleece is from a coarse or fine breed, whether it is a cheviot or merino sheep, and that eacli fleece contains many grades of wool, in fact, the variation in a sin- gle fleece may be as great as that be- tween wool from two distinct vari- eties of sheep. Figure 1 is numbered to show the variety of wools in the position in which they grow and de- scribed by McLarin in this manner: "No. 1 is the shoulder, where the wool is long and fine. It grows the closest and Is most even. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 11 "No. 2 Is rather stronger, but oth- erwise equally good. The best and soundest wool grows on these parts. "No. 3, on the neck, is shorter than No. 1, but even finer; where sheep are likely to have gray wool it is sure to be found here, and also on No. 4, which, with No. 5, grows wool of in- ferior staple and faulty character. No. 6, which covers the loin and back, is coarser and shorter, while on "No. 7 the wool is long, strong and hangs in long staples. On crossbred preached; it is known as 'brokes.' "No. 11 is also short and fine, while "No. 12, the front of the throat, is short and worn with rubbing. Kemps or dead hairs are mostly found in No. 12 and No. 8, although in the latter they are much longer and stronger than in the former. "No. 13 is the head, on which the wool is very short indeed, rough and coarse like the legs. "No. 14 is still worse and of little value." .//.■//////.,■////,■/.',- ,V ///;.'/ ,V / A' .V .' .:>>!! f!^:^i.'!> : > .' : I ! ! >lll> } 1 1 \ Sis- Figure 2. Sectional View of "A Cone Duster" or "Willow." sheep this part becomes very coarse, and is much the same as "No. 8, which is the coarsest part of the wool, and is known as bruch, or britch, and even when very strong, as 'cowtail.' When like this it al- most resembles horse hair, although it is more brittle and not so smooth and bright. "No. 9 is also strong and much the same as No. 7. "No. 10 is short, dirty and increases in fineness as the front legs are ap- It will be readily seen from the va- riety of wool to be found in a fleece that none but SKILLED WORKMEN can sort wools with accuracy. With the skill acquired by long practice, the eye and hand of the sorter follow the divisions according to the number of qualities required. At times it may be necessary to make six to eight sorts, while at other times two sorts are all that are required, with the britch thrown to one side. The type 12 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY of goods to be manufactured will de- termine to a great extent the close- ness to grade required of the sorter. In a few instances the ileeces are simply skirted, the fabrics requiring no further sorting of the stocli. WOOL SCOURING. Wool scouring, as carried on in most modern plants, is very different from the primitive methods employed by our ancestors, and even to-day in some remote parts of the world. It was the custom to carry the wool to the side of a brook, and there re- move as much as possible of the dirt and grease by manipulating in cold water, aided by herbs and barks. Later, methods of making soap were discovered and the stock was more thoroughly cleansed by the use of soap and water, but the process was still extremely slow and laborious. When the old style rinse box, so fa- miliar to many of the older genera- tion of mill men, was devised, it mark- ed a long step in advance in this process. The wool was thrown into a tub or vat containing the scouring liquor, poled for a time to secure thorough penetration of the mass, then forked out onto a rack to drain. Under the rack a suitable shelf was placed to provide for the return of the scouring liquor to the tub. After draining for a time, a portion of the wool was thrown into the rinse box and a stream of water turned on which more or less thoroughly washed the impurities of various kinds from the stock. When clean, the wool was taken from the box, allowed to drain for a time and then spread thinly on a rack to dry. These methods have been practically superseded in all mills of any size by the MECHANICAL WOOL WASHER, which is not only a great saver of time and labor, but also cleanses the wool thoroughly and leaves it in much better condition for subsequent op- erations. In the majority of instances it is advisable to dust the wool be- fore scruring, removing in this way as much as possible of the mechanically adhering dirt and refuse, making a considerable saving in the quantity of detergents necessary to complete the cleansing of the fibre. There are sev- eral types of dusters in use for this purpose, one of the most commonly used being that known as a "cone duster" or "willow." A sectional view of a duster of this type is shown in Figure 2. The cylinder is cone shaped and consists of four lags, supported by suitable spiders on a main shaft, and is usually about 48 inches in diam- eter at the large end, tapering to 26 inches at the other. The lags A and A' are FITTED WITH IRON TEETH, projecting 3 to 4 inches which mesh with stationary teeth set in the frame of the machine. The lighter particles of straw, chaff and dust are withdrawn by the exhaust fan B and discharged through a pipe outside the mill. Below the cylinder is a screen C through which the heavier im- purities such as sand and dirt fall. A screen is also placed at the fan openings to prevent the wool from being drawn through with the light din.. In action the stock is placed on a slat apron which delivers it to a pair of cockspur feed rolls, which hold it momentarily while it is opened and beaten by the turn of the cylinder re- volving at the rate of 400 turns per minute. The bottom of the duster should be as nearly air-tight as pos- sible, so that there may be no up- ward draught of air, caused by the suction of the fan, to prevent the fall- ing of the dirt and refuse through the screen. The screen is usually made in at least TWO SECTIONS, so that it may readily be removed for cleaning. The action of the revolv- ing cylinder carries the wool toward the large end where there is an open- ing through wlilch it is discharged. In arranging a plant for dusting, scour- ing and dryijig, if the room is not long enough to permit of the machines being placed tandem, it is possible to so arrange them that handling of the stock will be reduced to a minimum. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 13 In order to accomplish this the vari- ous machines may be located as in Figure 3. The wool is fed to the duster A by hand and discharged onto an apron running at right angles which delivers the wool to the feed apron of the three -bowl washer. From the delivery end of the third bowl it passes to an Inclined apron E, which delivers It to the feed apron F of the dryer G. The dry stock from the op- posite end of the dryer falls to an apron H, which travels toward the blower of the pneumatic conveyor 1, which transfers the dry wool direct to the bins in another room. An in- stallation of this sort will give a max- imum production with a minimum of labor. Tanks for boiling the soap should be arranged where they would be easy of access and not occupy space that could be used more advan- tageously for other purposes. In scouring wools the detergents to be used should be selected not alone with a view to removing the dirt and grease from the wool, but also with the object of leaving the fibre in the best possible condition for further manufacture. For scouring wool there is nothing better than a pure, well-made potash soap, the so-called FIG OR CROWN SOAP While many scourers use soda soaps, their use is not advisable on fine wools, fs the action of a harsh alkali has a very injurious effect on the wool fibre. The tendency is to de- stroy the fine serrations or imbrica- tions of the fibre, which detracts ma- terially from its working qualities. The use of soda also has a tendency to give the wool a yellow tinge, if it is allowed to lie for some time before it is used. Before using any scour- ing materials they should be tested for purity and strength, not alone to be sure that they contain no impuri- ties that have no value as detergents. but also to make sure they contain nothing actually harmful to the wool fibre. Some of the MOST COMMON ADULTERANTS are china clay, salt and silicate of soda or resin. A few simple tests should be familiar to everyone. Ex- cess of moisture, a very common method of loading soap, is easily de- tected by careful'.y weighing a sample of soap and then cutting it into thin shavings, drying until it ceases to lose weight and w-eighing again. The dif- ference in weight is the amount of moisture it contains. If one ounce of the soap is dissolved in w^ater, placed in a test tube and a quarter of an ounce of dilute sulphuric acid is add- ed, the soap will be decomposed. The grease and resin, if any, will float on the top, and the earthy, heavy im- purities settle to the bottom. By heating a portion of soap in strong alcohol, the soap will be dissolved, leaving the insoluble impurities in their original form. As it is a matter of common knowledge that caustic alkali of sufficient strength will en- tirely DISSOLVE THE WOOL FIBRE, it should hardly he necessary to em- phasize the fact that its presence in soaps for wool scouring should be carefully guarded against. Its pres- ence is readily determined by an ex- tremely simple test. A drop of phe- nolphthalein placed on the soap will immediately give a pink color if it contains free caustic alkali. In addition to pure detergents. It is absolutely essential that there be an adequate supply of pure soft water. If hard water is used for scouring wools it is well-nigh impossible to ob- tain satisfactory results. The most common fonns of impurities are the various iron and lime compounds. The result of using such water will be to decompose the soap, and the grease in it will unite with the acid of the lime salt forming a lime soap, which is insoluble in water. This lime soap, in the form of a sticky, pastv mnss, will be deposited on the wool in the scouring linnor. and is re- moved with extreme difficulty. If the wool is not thoroughly cleansed from it at this time, suoceedin.g operations will he attended with considerable trouble. This will he particularly no- ticeable in the dyeing and finishing departments. THE IDEAL METHOD of wool scouring is that which thor- oughly cleanses the fibre, without in 14 WOOLEN AND AVORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY the least detracting from its color, strength, luster or elasticity. These results are impossible of attainment without the best of materials, machin- ery and care in operation. The form- ula for the scouring liquor will vary with the class and condition of wool to be scoured, and cannot be laid down as an ironclad rule to be used in all casB,3. In many mills it is customarj' to make the soaps used, and excellent results may be obtained by so doing. The formula here given will make a very satisfactory soap for wool scouring. Dissolve 400 pounds of caustic pot- ash in 100 gallons of water. Boil un- til it is thoroughly dissolved, then add water to make up 400 gallons giving a solution of a pound of potash to a gallon of water. Let the solution will injure the wool fibre; in fact, at a temperature of 230 degrees Fahren- heit the wool will be decomposed With these facts in mind, the neces- sity for skill and intelligence In scouring wool will be readily under- stood. The strength of the scouring liquor to be employed should be de- termined largely by the GRADE OF THE WOOL, rather than by its apparent grease content, and must be left to the judg- ment of the scourer. In drying, the wool should not be subjected to the action of extreme heat, as it has a tendency to detract from the working qualities of the stock and the handle of the finished fabrics. When time and space will permit of so doing, better results will be obtained by dry- ing the wool without the aid of arti- Figure 3. Location of IVIacliines. cool to about 65 degrees Fahrenheit. when it should test about 14 degrees Twaddell. Run the lye into barrels and add a gallon of red oil to each four gallons of the solution, stirring occasionally until the ingredients are combined, forming a jellylike soap. To prepare the scouring liquor, place in a suit- able tank 125 pounds of soap, 200 pounds of pearl ash, and boil in 250 gallons of water, until the mixture is completely dissolved. In using a 16- toot bowl machine for very greasy wools 12 pails of this mixture should be placed in the first bowl. 10 in the second and clear water in the tliird. The temperature of the liquor should never be over 125 degrees Fahrenheit and preferably lower, as excessive heat flcial heat. This is readily accom- plislied by providing a suitable screen, supported by racks and enclosed be- low so as to be practically air-tight. A powerful fan is connected with the space underneath the screen and forces a current of air through the stock. Wool dried in this manner is more lofty, and retains to a greater degree its life and elasticity. CARBONIZING. Should the wool contain an exces- sive amount of burrs and other vege- table matter which may not readily be removed, the scoured wool may be carbonized and the impurities re- moved in this way. There are vari- ous methods of carbonizing, one of the most common being the wet or acid WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 15 system. In carbonizing by Ibis sys- tem a lead-lined tank is provided containing a bath, usually of dilute sulphuric acid of a strength of four to six degrees. In this the wool is im- mersed by means of a wooden cage into which it is packed, not too tightly, as every portion must be sub- jected to treatment by the acid. Aft- er a suitable time has elapsed, de- pending on the quantity of vegetable matter in the wool, the cage is raised to drain, the wool extracted and sub- jected to about ISO degrees of heat, which renders the vegetable matter capable of being crushed Into dust and easily removed by the carbonizing duster. Wools which have been sub- jected to this treatment must be neu- tralized by means of an alkali bath, unless they are to be acid dyed. Wool Mixing and Carding To Insure good results in carding and spinning it is necessary that the preparation of the stock in the pre- vious processes be thoroughly per- formed. In a former article we have taken up the sorting and scouring of the wool and at this time will follow the course of the stock in its prog- ress through the regular routine of oiling, picking, carding and spinning, leaving the dyeing to be treated in an article particularly devoted to that branch of the industry. To card well, the stock must be as free from vegetable matter as pos- sible, and unless this is removed by the carbonizing process, the stock should be run through the bur pick- er, which will remove a large propor- tion of the burs, shive, seeds, etc., be- fore the stock is oiled and mixed. A common type of bur picker is shown in the illustration, reference to which will show the means of separating the burs from the fibre. The stock is fed to the feed apron, a, by the ordinary type of self feed, and conveyed in a continuous flat web to the cockspur feed rolls. A, which hold the stock while it is engaged by the cylinder B This cylinder SERVES A DOUBLE PURPOSE, that of opening the wool and also carrying it to the bur cylinders d and e, which are covered with toothed steel rings that allow the wool to be drawn into the spaces between the rings, but hold the burs on the sur- face, where they are engaged by the bur guards F, G, and knocked out by the rapidly revolving blades. The wool is cleared from the bur cylinder by the brush H, and carried into the gauze room by the current of air generated by the brush- Under the cylinder is a screen, C, permitting the heavier particles of dirt and refuse to fall into the enclosed space under the machine, while the lighter par- ticles are drawn through a screen at the back by the fan, and discharged outside of the mill through a suitable pipe. The burs are thrown into a box, .J, on top of the teed apron. It may be thought strange that after spending so much time and trou- ble to remove the natural grease from the wool, oil should be put on the fibre before proceeding with its man- ufacture into yarn, but there is an extremely simple explanation for this operation. In the article on textile fibres it was stated that one of the most important features of the wool fibre is the scaly form of the outer si'rffice, and it was also stated that on these scales or imbrications de- pends, to a great extent, the A'ALUE AND FELTING properties of the stock. Should the ■vool be carded while dry, these ser- rotions will be injured by the friction of the fibres with each other, and by contact with the card clothing. The 16 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY fibres will be broken, causing a much larger percentage of waste. Wlien lubricated with an emulsion of oil and water, the imbrications are filled with the lubricant and slide by one another easily, allowing the locks of wool to be straightened out and dis- entangled without injury or diffi- culty. It is impossible to restore to its original condition wool that has been damaged by harsh treatment in the scouring or drying process, but the use of good oil in liberal quanti- ties will assist materially in the card- ing and spinning. The oil is usually < r in some types as it emerges. The method of application is of no particu- lar importance, the essential feature being hat it shall be applied even- ly to all parts of the batch, or uneven work in subsequent processes will be the result. Another very important Item, if mixtures either of colors or stocks are to be made, is to see that the batch is so laid down that a homogeneous blend will re- sult. This may be best accomplished by placing alternate layers of the va- rious colors in proportion to the quan- tity of each and in feeding to the Atlas Bur Picker — a, Feed Apron; A, Feed Rolls: B, Main Cylinder; C, Screen: d, e, Bur Cylinders: F, G. Bu r Guards: H, Brush: J, Bur Box. applied in the form of an emulsion, obtained by mixing oil and water and saponified by an addition of a mild alkali. The kind and quantity of oil to be used varies with the stock, a harsh, crisp wool requiring more oil than a fine, soft stock. The usual quantity of oil for a medium grade of stock is four quarts per hundred pounds. The stock to be oiled is placed in thin layers on the floor of the picker house, and the emulsion applied with a sprinkler can. This method is probably the most com- monly used, although in up-to-date plants, it is not unusual to find a ilECHANICAL OILER which applies the emulsion just as the stock enters the mixing picker. mixing picker, using care to take the stock from top to bottom of the pile. In this manner each armful fed to the picker will contain its proportion of every color used. If the mixture con- tains several colors or stocks, it would be well to give it at least three runs through the picker. We illustrate a modern type of mixing picker, which will give the reader an excellent idea of the machine and its METHOD OF OPERATION. The stock is fed to the traveling apron, which conveys it to the feed rolls! These are fitted with pin or cockspur teeth which hold the stock momen- tarily, while it is engaged by the teeth of the main cylinder which re- volves at a speed of from 700 to 1,000 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 17 revolutions per minute. The stock is discharged through an opening direct- ly opposite the feed rolls Into a gauze room, or to a blower which conveys it to the desired receptacle. Oiling and mixing, which, of them- selves, are apparently simple opera- tions, requiring no special care or at- tention, are, in reality, a very impor- have the picker discharge direct to a blower connected to a pneumatic system, which deposits the stock in a suitable bin convenient to the self feed of the card. If this is not per- mitted from lack of space, or other good reason, the batch may be sheeted up and taken to the card room as needed. At the present time there Mixing Picker — g, Screen Under Cylinder; h, Feed Apron; j, Feed Rolls; I, Cylinder; 12, Cylinder Teeth; o, Cover. tant part of cloth manufacture. Un- less the stock is well handled in the picker room, no amount of time and labor which may be expended later will remedy the evils resulting from this inattention. It is a common say- ing among woolen superintendents that stock which leaves the picker room in first-class condition is well on the way to perfect cloth, while stock poorly treated in the picker room will give trouble in every sub- sequent process. From the picker house, the stock may be conveyed to the card room by any means at hand. The system in- volving the least labor, perhaps, is to are few mills, if any, which are not fitted with self feeds in the card room. This is not only a LABOR-SAVING DEVICE, but insures much evener results than it was possible to obtain by the old method of feeding by hand. The illus- tration shows a modern first breaker card with self feed at- tached, as commonly used in woolen mills. The essential features of the feeding are a receptacle for the stock, a spike apron to convey the stock to the weighing mechanism, suitable means to dump the required weight of stock on the feed apron, and means 18 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY by which it is possible to prevent a further supply to the scale pan when the required amount has been re- ceived. The operation of the ma- chine is not difficult to comprehend, and Is marvelously accurate in its re- sults. It is built with a large hopper or feed box, in the back of which is a spiked apron for conveying the stock from the hopper to the scale pan. Near the top of the apron, the stock comes in contact with an oscillating comb, which removes the surplus wool, leaving the balance distributed even- ly over the apron. On the opposite side of the apron, a rapidly moving. the mixing begun in the picking proc- ess, and the arrangement of the mass of wool into suitable form to be spun into yarn. In olden times these operations were all performed by hand, but the inventive genius of man has perfected machinery that now enables us to obtain much better results, with practically no handling of the stock from start to finish. Mod- ern carding Involves the use of three machines, with the necessary acces- sories in the way of feeding mechan- isms and doffers. The two PRINCIPAL FEATURES of carding are: The carding itselt First Breaker Card and Self Feed. short, stripper apron sweeps the wool from the spike apron into the scale pan. When the desired weight of wool is deposited in the scale, the sinking of the pan raises an arm which en- gages with suitable levers and stops both the spike and stripper aprons. By means of a lever operated by a gear driven from the feed apron, the scale pan is opened and the wool de- posited on the feed apron of the card. The empty pan then is lifted by the counterpoise disengaging the stop mechanism, and the operations are repeated. With the placing of the stock on the feed apron of the first breaker card, the process of carding really begins. The objects of carding are threefold: the opening out of the fibres of the wool, the completion of which consists of opening and card- ing the wool by means of revolving cylinders covered with card clothing filled with wire teeth, the carding ac- tion taking place when the teeth of two opposing cylinders work point against point: the stripping of the carded web from the cylinder by the points of the clothing on one cylin- der, working against the backs of the teeth on the other. On an ordinary set of 48x48 cards there are usual- ly six workers on the first and second breakers, and five on the fin- isher. The illustration shows the method of action of a worker F, and stripper G, in connection with the main cylinder E, of the card, giving a clear idea of both the carding and stripping. At the rear of the last WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 19 worker on each card is a roll covered with longer wire, which has neither a carding nor stripping action, but acts iWORE IN THE NATURE of a brush. The surface speed is slightly greater than that of the cylin- der, and the clothing raises the stocii to the points of the teeth on the cylin- der from which it is rapidly removed by the doffer. An oscillating comb at the back of the doffer removes the it differs somewhat because of the change in the method of feeding. The illustration shows the back of the first breaker and the Apperly feed ap- plied to the second breaker and is suf- ficiently clear to require no detailed explanation- From the second break- er, the stock is transferred to the fin- isher by a similar feed and is sub- jected to still further carding. The chief point of difference between the finisher and the two breaker cards is Siae View of Cylinder, Worker and Stripper — f, Worker; g, Stripper; g1, Web Taken by Worker; g2, Web Removed by Stripper; e, Cylinder; Arrows Indicate Direction of IVIovement. stock in a continuous web, which is drawn off at the side through a tube by suitable rollers, and usually con- veyed to the second breaker in rope form by the Apperly feed, thus elimi- nating the use of the old style creel. The second breaker card is not essen- tially different from the first breaker, usually the clothing is finer, and it may be set somewhat closer, the ac- tion being virtually the same, con- tinuing the carding and completing the mixing of the stock. In appearance at the delivery end. Instead of deliv- ering the stock in rope form from a single doffer, the finisher is provided with two ring doffers. The rolls are not entirely covered with card cloth- ing but have alternate rings of cloth- ing as shown in tlie cut. The doffers are so arranged that the portion of the cylinder not stripped by tlie upper rings comes in contact with the cloth- ing of the bottom doffer, and the web is divirled into ribbons which pass through the condenser, where they WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 21 are subjected to a reciprocating mo- tion, and rubbed into tlireads termed roving, whicli are wound on spools ready for the spinning room, Ttie importance of care and accu- racy In setting ttie various parts of the card cannot be too strongly strongly impressed upon the opera- tives, as in case these are allowed to enter the cards with the stock, the wire becomes bruised and bent, and is rendered totally incapable of perform- ing the functions for which it was in- tended. The care and setting of the ■r="'''D |y||||::; bAVi'i'i'e: n ■i: [Ji; g' '([■'F^iWi'iJr J2 J2 Ring Doffers on Finisher Card — j1, j2, Empty Spaces; j3, Waste End ??ings. emphasized, as inattention to these details will result in serious injury to the stock, as well as irreparable dam- age to the card clothing itself. The necessity of removing burs and lumps of foreign matter cannot be too various parts of the cards cannot be taken up in the brief description of the process here given and belong in a more technical treatise of the sub- ject than space at this time will al- low. 22 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS aLOSSARY Woolen Spinning There are probably very few of the present generation who have seen wool spun on the old fashioned wheel, BO commonly used in our grandmoth- er's day. It is only a few genera- tions ago that the women of the household were accustomed to spin the various fibres into yarn, and weave, on a primitive tjiJe of hand loom, not only the cloth for the garments of the family, but the linen for the table and bedding. It is less than one hundred and fifty years ago that the first machine for spinning more than one thread at a time was invented by James Hargreaves. This was a wonderful improvement over the process then in vogue, and the perfection of the jack by Samuel Crompton in 1779 apparently left nothing to be desired. It would be extremely interesting to listen to the comments these pioneers in the in- dustry would make, could they be translated to a modern spinning room, with its SELF-ACTING MULES, of some 560 spindles each, operating at a speed of three draws per min- ute. The production of one of these mules, 1,680 yards of yam per minute, would certain- ly appear to them as but little short of marvelous. For the greater part of a century, the hand jack was the type of machine used in the woolen mills. This machine, while a vast improvement over former methods, was somewhat slow and laborious. The minds of many skilled mechanics were engaged on the problem of increasing the ef- ficiency of the jack by modifications and improvements that should make it automatic in its action. The use of the hand jack required the spinner to wind the yarn, and form the bobbins by hand, as indi- cated by the name of the machine, while in the modern type of mule, as built by both foreign and domestic manufacturers, the action is automatic throughout. All that is required of the operative, practically, is to keep it supplied with roving, remove the full bobbins, place a set of empty bobbins on the spindles and start the mule. The spinning process consists of THREE OPERATIONS, drawing out the roving, inserting the required amount of twist and winding the thread on the bobbin. In a pre- vious article the carding of wool was described, ending with the winding of the roving on jack spools, in which condition it is taken to the spinning room, ready for the mules. The method of operation may be briefly described as follows: A por- tion of roving is unwound from the spool, drawn and twisted to the de- sired size and wound on bobbins or tubes, for ease of handling in subse- quent processes. The mule has as its principal features, three distinct parts, each of which are intimately connected with the successful per- formance of the work. These are the carriage, the head stock and the mechanism for supplying the roving. The carriage travels in and out au- tomatically and carries near its outer edge the spindles which are driven from a sectional cylinder, extending the length of the carriage, by cotton bands. Its motion is controlled by the headstock, from which every movement of each part of the machine is governed by means of suitable gears and cams. The line drawing gives a very clear idea of the various parts and their relative positions. The spool of roving, A, is placed on the drum, Al, the ends passed through the guide, A2. which keeps them in the center of the bosses on the drawing off rolls, A4 and A5. The outer end of the roving is then fastened to the bobbin, CS, on the spindle, C7. The lower pair of delivery rolls are driven by a train of gears from the roving drum, Al, which in turn is driven from the head- stock. The spindle is supported by WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 23 means of a "stepboard" at the lower end and a "collarboard" at the top of the carriage, and has a slight in- clination toward the delivery rolls. About midway between the step and collarboards is the whorl, C8, a small grooved pulley, around which the driving baud passes. In former years each spindle was driven by a single band, but the approved method at present is to drive ONE OR MORE SECTIONS by a band passing around a spindle and the cylinder alternately. The motion, usually 72 inches, and remains there until sufficient twist has been inserted. When this has been accom- plished, the fallers assume the proper position, the carriage is drawn in, winding the yarn on the bobbins at the same time. To one not familiar with the machine it would seem that the roving would be immediately brok- en by the rotation of the spindles. The fact that the point of the spindle is slightly below the level of the delivery rolls, together with its inclination per- mits the yarn to slip off over the top End View of Mule. — a, Spool of Roving; a1, Roving Drum; a2, Roving Guide; a3, Sectional Top Roll; a4, a5, Delivery Rolls; a6, Thread; b1, b4, Fall- ers; c7, Spindle; c8, Bobbin; c4. Cylinder. arms, Bl and B4, termed "fallers" carry wires which serve to keep the yarn taut, and guide it while winding on the bobbin. The operation will be more readily comprehended if the de- scription follows the action from the beginning of a draw. When in this position the tops of the spindles are slightly below and about an inch from the delivery rolls. The delivery of roving from the rolls, the rotation of the spindles, and the drawing out of the carriage are started at the same instant. While the roving is being delivered, the speed of the carriage is about the same as the surface speed of the delivery rolls. When the rolls stop, the carriage continues to draw the yarn, till it reaches Its limit of as the spindle revolves, and each rev- olution of the spindle puts one turn of twist in the yarn. To watch the operation of a mule while spinning Is extremely interesting, and would al- most convince one that it was pos- sessed of an intelligence of its own. The motion of the carriage in either direction, the delivery of a determined length of roving, acceleration of spin- dle speed during the drawing and twisting, the easing off to allow for the contraction of the yarn due to the twist and the perfect formation of the bobbin from bottom to top seem well nigh impossible for inanimate matter to accomplish. When the bobbins are full, they must be removed and the spindles re- 24 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY filled with empty ones. This is ac- operation is completed, the fallers complished without disturbing the locked down, and a few turns ot yarn yarn. The mule is stopped Just as it taken about the spindle below the bob- Is about to back oft after the twisting bin, which fastens it securely, then WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 25 the full bobbins may be removed. The objects to be obtained by spinning are not, as many suppose, simply the twisting of the yarn and placing it on bobbins. In addition to these very Important features, the drawing of the yarn plays an essential part in the production of a sound, perfect thread. In common with nearly every process in textile manufacturing, the success of the spinning depends to a marked degree on the thoroughness with which the previous operations have been performed. While it is un- deniably true that an expert spinner can do much toward rectifying mis- takes that have been made in tlie card room, it is, nevertheless, impossible for him to attain the highest possible success, if the materials with wliich he has to deal are not in the best pos sible condition when he receives th^^ni It is utterly impossible for ilie most expert spinner to make a per- fect, even thread from uneven, twitty roving. By skillful adjustment of the various parts of the mule, he may be able to overcome in part some of the defects due to lack of care in the carding. IMPORTANCE OF DRAWING. It is a matter of some surprise that so many spinners have so slight a real- ization of the extremely important part that the drawing has in the pro- duction of perfect yarn. In the de- scription of woolen carding it will be remembered that tfie fancy was the last roll to act on the stock before it left the finisher card to go to the ring doffers and condensers. The state- ment was made that the fancy simply acts as a brush, raising the stock to the points of the teeth of the cylinder clothing so that it may be the more easily removed by the doffers. This brushing action of the fancy, together with the slower surface speed of the doffers, has a marked tendency to dis- arrange the parallelization of the fibres effected by the carding. The DRAWING OPERATION during the process of spinning cor- rects this to a certain extent, and draws the fibres into a more n?ar!y parallel condition again. Very fre- quently it will be found that com- plaints of tender yarn in the weave room can be entirely eliminated by a change in the drafting on the mules. It is manifestly impossible to bring out the greatest strength one is able to securo with the stock used unless the fibres are drawn to such an extent as to insure their interlacing with as many others o\er as great a space as is possible. Drawing the yarn while twisting also tends to even up the inequalities of the roving some- what, the twist jetting in the finer spots as the yarn is being drawn, leaving the thicker untwisted portions to be drawn out and reduced to more nearly the correct size. The production per spindle is de- pendent to a very great extent upon the size of the yarn and the quality of the stock. The usual equipment in modern mills is to allow a 360-spindle mule tor a set of 48-inch cards. The number of mule spindles required to put the production of a set of cards into >arn, however, is a variable quantity, depending on several fea- tures. The class of stock, the size of the yarn, and the amount of draft re- quired, all have a very material effect on this question. The latter is an item that does not receive the atten- tion that it demands at all times. On good stock it is customary to make the roving double the weight of the yarn ':o be spun, that is, to produce a i our run yarn the roving would be made '- . o-run on the cards. If in the judgment of the spinner, the stock will permit, it would be well to make the roving still heavier, making a ma- terial increase in the card room pro- duction witliout in any way affecting the quality or running of the yarn on the mules. On coarse yarns the man- ufacture of which presumably entails the use of a cheaper and inferior stock, it may be necessary to make the roving relatively finer, that is, % run or possibly 1 run to produce a 1% run yarn. It is impossible to formu- late a rule that will give the best re- sults at all times, and details of this kind must be left for the carder and spinner to deal with as the exigencies of the ca.^e demand. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY Worsted Yarn Manufacture The first operation in the manufac- ture of worsted yarns, except in the case of a tew varieties of extremely long wools, is somewhat similar to the first process used for woolen yarn making. Instead of the set of cards, consisting of three separate machines, the worsted card is a single machine with two or three cylinders mounted on the same frame, with workers and strippers similar in appearance and functions to those on the woolen card described in a former article. The object of carding is to comb the wool and lay the fibres as straight and as nearly parallel as possible, making a sliver in which every fibre retains its length. A very important item is that the WEIGHT OF THE SLIVER be maintained as uniform as possible from day to day, otherwise it will be impossible for the comber to make the comb slivers of uniform weight. A marked difference betw^ei' wool- en and worsted carding is^ in (he method of removing the carded wool from the machine. In the worsted card the stock is taken from the doffer in the form of a flat web by a vibratory comb, and delivered through a tube to the balling head, without a change In its direction of motion through the card. This tends to preserve the par- allelization of the fibres affected by the carding operation. The balls of "slubbing" are then placed on the preparing gill boxes where a further combing takes place. The essential features of the gill box are the front and back rolls and a set of fallers as shown in ... igure 1. The action of the machine is governed entirely by the RELATIVE SPEEDS of these three parts. The motion of the rolls is rotary, that of the fallers horizontal, all three moving the wool forward in the same direction. The combing action of the gill box is rlue to the fact that back rolls, fallers and front rolls all move at different speeds. Reference to Fig. 1 will make the explanation of the opera- tion more clear. We will assume that the back rolls A are delivering a sliver to th'; fallers B, which are steel bars contuining two rows of pins. While the back rolls are delivering one inch the fallers may travel one and a half inches, and in the same time the front rolls C deliver six ^A6i6iiA6iA6ir(^c B r Fig. 1, End Vie\ of Gill Box -^ Back Rolls; P, F-.lers; C, Fr Rolls. inches. The a'-row indicates the di- rection of motion of the fallers, which are carried by a screw. When in the position indicated by 1 the faller drops to a second screw which car- ries it back directly under that mark- ed 2, and is raised into position as No. 2 travels forward. From this gill box the slubbing may Le taken to the back washer to remove the impurities from the wool. This is accomplished by passing the sliver through two bowls, ea^h of which have a pair of squeeze rolls to press out the suds after treatment. From the last pair of rolls the sliver passes over a se- ries of heated cylinders which dry it thoroughly before it reaches the gill box attached to the front of the back washing machine. In many spinning mills it is customary to apply oil just previous to gilling on Ihe back wash- er, while in others this is done during the next gilling operation, from which the sliver goes to the "punch box," a machine that rolls four ends of sli'«r into a ball ready for comhirg WORSTED COMBING. The type of comb most commonly used in our domestic mills is the Noble or great circle comb, of which Figure 2 is an illustration. This is used for combing all classes of ■wools. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 27 though the Lister or nip comb is prob- ably adapted for extremely long stocks. Though tlie general design and principle of the Noble comb have not been changed in over 25 years, it has been materially improved me- chanically. The first and more im- portant of these improvements was the invention of a greatly accelerated dabbing brush, increasing the produc- tion about 20 per cent; the second, and comparatively recent improve- tical drawing-off rolls, which take away the sliver of long fibres. The success of the machine is due to its simplicity, depending on the comb cir- cles alone to clear the wool and re- move the noil, as the short, curly fi- bres are termed. Another point ot difference from all other combs is that the wool in process of combing is car- ried in a creel attached to the re- vohing circle. The punch box meas- ures the length of sliver wound intj Fig. 2. Improved Noble Comb. ment, was the application of ball bearings to the carriage, which has reduced the power consumption to a marked degree. The principal features of the comb are the large horizontal circle with its five rows of vertical pins, two small horizontal circles with rows of upright pins, the outer row of which touch the inner row of pins on the large cir- cle, the two dabbing brushes, which drive the wool down into the PINS OF THE TWO CIRCLES at this point of contact, and the ver- the four end balls, as it is essential that each ball should contain the same length. The creel holds 18 balls, a total of 72 slivers being comb- ed at the same time, which insures very thorough mixing. The perimeter speed of the large and small circles is the same, so that at the point of contact they are practically stationary in regard to each other, which per- mits of the wool being pushed down into both circles simultaneously. The combing results from the fact that as the circles rotate they draw apart, so that the wool, which was forced inio 28 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY the pins of the circles when they were forced into the pins by the dab- close together, is combed as the dis- bing brush. As in fine circles tance between the circles increases. there is less than 1-100 of an inch Fig. 3. Double Can Gill Box. The efficiency of the comb depends between the pins it Is obvious on the separation of the circles, as all that no nibs or vegetable mat- the short wool nibs and shive, are ter can pass through these fine WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSAHT 29 spaces, so that the triage of wool hanging from the circles is free from all matter of this nature. As the cir- cles travel the fringes of long wool are engaged by the drawing-off rolls and removed in the form of a continu- ous sliver of long fibres, leaving the short wool, burs and nibs within the rows of pins. This mixture, termed noil, is removed by a set of station- ary knives, and falls into a funnel which conducts it under the comb. The combed sliver, called top, is car- ried to the back of the machine and coiled into a can. To prepare the sliver for the drawing and spinning requires the use of two gill boxes. The objects to be obtained are four- fold: 1. The blending of the various lengths of fibres. 2. To further par- allelize them. 3. The application of water in order to properly condition the top so as to insure every yard of sliver weighing the same. 4. Winding the sliver into balls for economy of space and to facilitate handling in the drawing room. In order to obtain a sliver that shall be as nearly perfect as possible, it is essential that the various lengths of fibre should be mixed thoroughly through every portion. The sliver from the Noble comb is made up of four small slivers from the four sets of drawing-off rolls. The wool from the large circle is longer than that drawn from the small one, necessitating the gilling operation to equalize the length of the fibres in all parts of the silver. (See Figure 3.) The chief point of difference in the two finishing gill boxes is that the first delivers into a can, while the second winds the finished top into a ball. It must not be understood that a single sliver is delivered to a gill box for treatment. At the first box, 28 cans of comber sliver are placed in position, and the ends ted to the back rolls. Assuming that the comber sliver weighs an ounce per 10 yards, and the box has a draft of five, THE RESULTING SLIVER will weigh 5.6 ounces per 10 yards. Four of these slivers may be fed to the second box, which, with a draft of five, will give a finished sliver weighing practically 4% ounces per 10 yards. In order to make yarn of uni- form weight, it is essential that the tops go to the drawing room of uni- form weight and with a standard amount of oil and water, or as it is usually termed "condition." The sliver is now in the condition known as fin- ished tops and ready for the next series of processes termed drawing. WORSTED DRAWING. Many of our smaller worsted spin- ning mills buy their raw material in the form of finished tops, confining their operations to the drawing and spinning. The process of drawing con- tinues the operation of parallelizing the fibres and reduces the slivers to roving suitable for the spinning frames. This is accomplished on a se- ries of machines technically termed a set of drawing. There are three sys- tems in common use: open drawing, cone drawing and French drawing. The first two are variations of the Bradford system, the first of which will be described liere. The principle of drawing is simple in the extreme, consisting of reducing a large sliver, or number of slivers, down to a rov- ing small enough to be spun without excessive draft, at the same time to so even the sliver that the spun thread will be of a uniform size. This can be done in no other way than by a pair of back rolls revolving slowly, drawing the sliver in, and feed- ing it in turn to a pair of front rolls revolving rapidly and draw- ing the wool out. By a repetition of this process and a sufficient number of doublings, a roving of the correct weight and condition is produced. A set of drawings for yarns to be spun to 40s or thereabouts consists of about eight operations and requires the following machines: First operation 2 double head can kUI boxes. Second operation 2 two-splndle gill boxes. Third operation 1 four-spindle draw box. Fourth operation 1 six-splndle weigh box. Fifth operation 1 elght-spindle draw box. Sixth operation 2 twenty-four spindle finishers. Seventh operation 3 thlrty-splndle reducers. Eighth operation 9 thirty-spindle rovers. The doublings and reductions for a 1,282 dram top (40 yard weighing) to WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY ,::s>"»'^ ^ O WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 31 produce a 4 dram roving would be as follows: Five slivers at the first gill box, with a draft of seven, will gire a sliver weighing 916 drams. Five of these at the two spindle gill box, with a draft of seven, will give a sliver weighing 654 drams. Five of these in the four spindle draw b'>x, with a draft of seven, will give a sliver weighing 467 drams. Four of these, with a draft of seven in the six spindle weigh box, will result in a sliver weighing 267 drams. In the next operation, three slivers are put up at the back of the eight spindle draw box. With a draft of seven the sliver produced will weigh 114% drams. Three of these slivers in the finisher, with a draft of seven, will give a sliver weighing but 49 drams. Two 49 dram slivers at the reducer will produce a 14 dram sliver with a draft of seven. For the final operation in the drawing, two of these slivers are placed on the rovers, and with a draft of seven, pro- duce the desired roving, weighing 4 drams. The rovings from this frame are taken to the spinning room ready for the final processes of yarn making. WORSTED SPINNING. Of the four metliods of worsted spinning in common use, the cap frame is, perhaps, the most used and is the one here shown in Figure 4. The spinning proc- ess, as stated in the article on woolen yarn making, consists of three operations, drafting, twisting and winding the yarn on bobbins. These are all accomplished on the same machine, and on the cap frame are continuous. The cap frame is particularly well adapted for the production of fine counts of yarns, and is capable of a much greater production than other types of spinning frames, as the spin- dle speed may be much greater than would be possible on the other sys- tems. The disadvantage of this meth- od of spinning is that the high spindle speed (6,000 to 8,000 evolutions per minute) with nothing to protect the yarn in its rapid travel around the cap, creates a considerable friction with the air, producing a somewhat rougher thread which raises the fibres on the yarn, than a flyer or ring frame. The enor- S- ±=h_^ ^^=? Fig. 5. A, Cap; B, Bobbin; W, Whori; L, Lifter Plate; S, Spindle: R, Spindle Rail. mously greater production, however, overcomes this objection in a great 32 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS OrLOSSARY measure, as also does the fact that the defect is not nearly as noticeable on fine yarns. The method of operation will be readily understood by refer- ring to Figures 5 and 6. The line drawing, Figure 5, shows a bobbin partially filled. A is the cap, fixed at the top to the spindle. B is the bobbin on a tube or sleeve inte ■ gral with the whirl W, which is rais- ed and lowered by the lifter plate L. R is the spindle rail, into which the spindle S is firmly screwed. The draft- ing is accomplished by means of back and front rollers similar to the meth- od employed in the drawing. An end elevation of the roving and drawing bobbing. The back rolls are metal, the carriers usually of wood; the bottom front roll Is metal and the top roll metal with a covering of leather. The wearing of this leather in spots is a frequent source of Imperfection In the yarns, and requires the recover- ing of the rolls. Tlie top rolls in the drawing and spinning rooms should be FREQUENTLY INSPECTED by those in charge of ihe departments, and defective rolls replaced with those in perfect conditicn, so that the labor of removing defects in yarn and cloth may be mi.-i'nized. Yarns to be Fig. 6. ^ E he used singly or in several combina- tions, the two f.ne rollers together, a single roll, either coarse or fine, or one of each kind together. The print- ed sheet of wool on leaving the roll- ers is conducted over a series of REVOLVIXG CAGES, in order to allow the dye to soak in Printing Gill Box. Skene & Devallee. close or open mesh, according to the pitch of the flutes of the printing roll- ers. The shade of the resulting mixture is governed entirely by the closeness of mesh of the printed pattern. To obtain various depths of shade It is and dr>" somewhat before being de- posited on the sheet. The use of linen sheeis for receiving the wool from the printing machine is recom- mended, as they are best adapted for the steaming operation which follows. The printed tops, tied up in the WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 35 linen- sheets, are placed in the steam box as tiglitly as possible, in order tliat the steam may not escape freely but penetrate the stock thorouglily. The use of a wooden steam box is ad- vised, rather than one constructed ot metal for obvious reasons. High pres- sure in c. metal receptacle is likely to do seriuus injury to the stock. The length of time necessary for the steaming operation varies with the dyes used and the quality of the wool. In some cases, after an hour's steaming at low pressure, the stock is removed, cool- ed off and again subjected to the steaming. When cooled off the stock is placed on a scray under the creel of the back washer. This is preferably of special construction, having five bowls, instead of the two found in the ordinary machine. The doublings are intersecting gill box. This is of the type known as the INTERSECTING GILL BOX for heavy doubling and heavy draft. The doublings here are 10 per heud, with a draft of 10. The peculiar fea- ture of this machine is that it has, in- stead of a single set of fallers with the pins pointing up, an extra set for a part of the distance, with the pins pointing down and intersecting with the teeth in the bottom set. The drawing of the sliver in a gill box of this type completely removes any tendency toward felting, resulting from the preceding processes. In printing tops it is necessary to use a gum of some sort in the dye- bath, and one that is readily soluble in warm water. Those in most com- mon use are British gum and traga- Sectional View of Printing Giil. eight to tweh'e, according to stock under treatment. After passing through the five bowls, tor the re- moval of surplus dye, the sliver is dried by passing over a series of steam- heated cylinders, and goes direct to the double head gill box of two spools each, which is built integral with the back washer. The final operation, or, as it might be considered, the first in the drawing, is the passage of the washed and dried slivers through the canth, a domestic product, D. & M. (Danker & Marston) is also used with very satistactorj- results. The dyes used for this system are of many kinds, the dyer having a wide range of drugs to choose from. Some of the colors used with ex- cellent results are: Mordant yellow G, GS, R and 3D, alizarine red S pow- der, the various palatine chrome browns and scarlets, the examine col- ors and the anthracene blues. A few 36 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSART formulas that have worked very suc- cessfully in mill practice are as fol- lows: S% Alizarine Black S. R. powder. 19% Water. 50% Britisli gum. 5% Acetic acid 9 degrees Tw. 3% Oxalic acid dissolved in 5 '7c Water. 10% Acetate of chrome, 3 2 degrees Tw. 100 7o 5% Pakitlne chrome blue R. dissolved in 3% Glycerine, 25 V2 % Hot water and 50% British gum thickening; When cool, add 3% Oxalate of ammonia, 1::% Chlorate of soda. 12^0 Acetate of chrome S. 32 degrees Tw. 1% Turpentine oil. 100% 5 To Palatine chrome brown R, dissolvea 3Ct Glycerine. 26 'i 7. Hot water and SOfc, British gum thickening; When cool, add s% Oxalate of ammonia, ',4 7c Chlorate of soda. 12% Acetate of chrome S. 32 degrees Tw. l7o Turpentine oil. 100% 5 7o Palatine chrome claret dissolved In 3 70 Glycerine. 25 Hi 70 Hot water and 607,, British gum thickening: When cool, add 3% Oxalate of ammonia. Mi7o Chlorate of soda. 12 7„ Acetate of chrome S. 32 degrees Tw. 1% Turpentine oil. 100 7o Angles of Twills The ordinary method of construct- ing serpentine twills is to combine a series of twills whose inclination from the horizontal gives the desired ef- fect. The method of forming such twills is very simple and consists of ■ DBBaa ■■CaBBGBIiaBBBBBG* BQQDBBB BBrBBBDBB_~.:^BBBBBGBBBBBnBDBUGZBB BaBGBBB^BIBZBBG^BBGBBBBB BGBGGGB BBBB BBGBB CBBBBvBB^BBBBBaBGBGGa BBBBBBBBGBGBGBBGBBBB BBBBBOB .BGD GBBGflGBB.:BB^_BBBBBBBB^BaBBBGBDIiG GGB*B .■■BBBBGZBBGBBBBBCBBBBBGBGB . BGGBBBGBBZBG'GBBB^BBBBMnBBBBBGBG H GaGZBBBBIiGaaGGGBaBGa«aBBGBBBBBGB •z KGftGGaBGaasaBa aaBBGaBBBaGaaaaaG ^ CaGaZ'BaaBGSGGGGaaBaGBBBBBGBBaBB "-^ BGBGBGBBGBBaBBBGBBBBBGBBBBBGBBBB ^ BaGaGG«aB«aaaGGL^GaBaaaGaaB«aGBBB ;£, BaaGaaGaaaaGBB.BGGaaBBkGaBBBBGBB BBflaGGGaBGaaBB^GG^GBaBBaGBBBBaGB BBBBBBBGasBaaeaai-G gbbbbb bbbbbg Gaaaa.GGaaGBGBBGGBGGGBBaaBGBBBBB GGaaBBaaGaaaaasaaGB L-GBBBBaGBBBB BGGaOB CGaBaaGBaGaGaGGGBBBBBGSBB BaLraaBaaaaGaaBaaG'GBDGGaBaaaGaB BBaGGaaGGGBBBBGaB. GBGBGgGBBVBBGB aBaaGaaaaGaaaaaaaaaL_.B_BGGGaBB>BD BBBBaGBBGG B_BBG«flaBGBGaa^DaBaBB Serpentine Twill Made by Transpo- sition. using the regular twill as a base, then taking every other perpendicular line in the draft, every third line, and proceeding in this manner, then re- versing the procedure until the orig- inal twill is again produced as in the example shown. To form a reclining twill proceed in the same manner with the HORIZONTAL LINES. A simi'a- effect may be produced by a change of texture in the warp as exemplified in the boucl6 pattern so popular some time ago. A cut of the fabric is here shown and will convey to the mind of the reader the effect produced in a clearer manner than a written description. The warp used for the fabric illustrated was dressed 20 ends of four run and 20 ends of 2 run alternately, the four run reeded 4 per dent and the 2 run 2 per dent, giving a fabric of even weight throughout, but with a vastly different texture in alternate stripes. In the stripe made by the coarse warp yam the twill is practically 45 degrees but in the fine stripe becomes a 63-degree twill with the same chain and the identical filling texture, the change in angle of the twill being caused entire- ly by the difference in warp texture. It is supposed by many that the ordi- nary type of twill chain will produce a 45-degree twill on the woven goods under all circumstances, as exempli- fied by the following query, but the facts in the case are as stated In the answer thereto. I<;d. American Wool & Cotton Reporter: We are enclosing a small sample of a four- harness twill that we figure is wov- en two up and two down. You will no- tlre. however, that the twill Is about C- ■-•:-■•-■--■. vhi'p a rpcular f'lur-har- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 37 ness twill is 45 degrees, opinion is this 27-clegree Do >'ou thinic it is done the tentering- machine? How in your twill obtained? in finishing by Yours truly, No. 2491. There is a very great difference between tlie angle at which a weave runs in a design and the angle at the weave upon ordinary design paper or upon cloth which contains exactly the same number of threads and also of picks per inch. Whenever the con- struction varies from the same num- ber of threads and picks per inch THE ANGLE OF THE TWILL ill tlie woven cloth will vary from that Serpentine Twill Made by Variation of Warp Texture. which any certain weave runs when it is woven into cloth. This subject has never been treated at all clearly in any of the technical books upon the subject and should be explained care- originally noted. That is, it will no longer be at the angle which the weave would indicate when it is on the design paper. The idea expressed in this inquiry that it is done in fin- fully in order to make results entirely clear. Usually Design books give cer- tain weaves or changes of weaves which are known as certain degree twills, and this is entirely correct for ishing by the tentering machine is In- correct, and while finishing does affect the angle in the cloth to a slight amount, it has nothing whatever to do with the radical changes In angle 38 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY noted in the cloth. There is used in this cloth a four- harness twill, wliich Is usually de- scribed as a 45-degree twill, and it is a 45-degree twill upon a weave stand- ard, or even in cloth when the same number of threads and picks per inch are noted. We give herewith a small sketch which will explain clearly the reason why the angle of the twill in the cloth is not the angle in the de- sign. This cloth contains about 44 picks and about 122 threads per inch. These figures may vary slightly in other portions of the cloth, but the fig- ures given are approximately correct. It will thus be noted that the ratio be- tween the warp and the filling is 2.78. That is, in the cloth for a certain space there will be 2.78 times as many threads as there are picks. BY EXAMINING THE SKETCH the result obtained should be clear. In (.he small square, which we have made off on a horizontal line the ratio which the warp is to the filling and then by drawing a line through the point ob- tained the angle of the twill can be closely approximated. You will note that It is not 27 degrees, but rather that it is about 20 degrees IN THE SAMPLE SUBMITTED. If ti^e number of picks per inch be in- creased more than . there are threads per inch, the angle of the twill will be- come more nearly horizontal, and this angle can be obtained in a similar manner to what we have used in the illustration. The various degrees are marked to make the situation clear. Some manufacturers designate the angle of twills similar to what we have used on the illustration submit- ted, while others use a.i opposite method. That is, they call the hori- zontal line degrees and the vertical line 90 degrees, thus making a twill such as you have submitted about a ■'^ ,,, i 27-Degree Twill. about two inches each way, this weave would make the 45-degree twill that we have drawn if there were 122 threads and also 122 picks per inch, or in fact if any number of threads and a like number of picks were used in the cloth. Now consider what hap- pens in the cloth submitted. For ev- ery 122 warp threads it will require 2.78 times as much space for the same number of picks. In other words the 45-degree weave does not remain any longer at an angle of 45 degrees, but is forced much nearer a vertical po- sition. The angle of any weave in a fabric can be obtained very easily by the method which we illustrate. Mark 70-degree twill instead of a 20-degree twill. Do not confuse the degree of a weave and the degree of a twill or weave after It is woven. THE CLOTH CONSTRUCTION always has an influence on the weave, and every change in construction will produce a different result. A few ex- periments upon the loom will show this more clearly. First place upon the loom a pick gear which will give 40 picks, then one which will give 80 picks, then another which will give 120 picks, all with the same degree of weave or twill used. The de- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 39 gree of the woven twills will all vary according to the degree of weave used and the construction of the cloth be- ing made. Textile Cost Finding. Cloth is sold to the consumer at prices that seldom represent actual intrinsic value, the prices being deter- mined in a measure according to the popularity of the fabric. Neverthe- less, the actual cost to make any par- ticular fabric is the basis on which the manufacturer is paid for the work performed and the stock used in its construction. The value of labor in mak- ing a cloth is pretty well stand- ardized, and the value of the stock is closely reported in the market, so that with this information, in combi- nation with a reasonable allowance as profit on investment, the value of a given fabric may be easily ascertain- ed without severe technical training. It should be clearly understood that when speaking of cloth the author does not include knit goods, only the production of the loom. All cloth has a warp and a filling. The warp threads are those which run lengthwise in the cloth, and filling threads are those crossing the warp threads from side to side of the cloth. A perfectly balanced cloth contains the same number of threads of warp and filling to tlie square inch, of yarns of the same thickness, and on exam- ining such a cloth, it will be found that each warp and filling thread passes over and under each other al- ternately. As each thread occupies a definite space, the number of threads to the inch will be according to the thick- ness of the yarn, and as yarns are spun to a positive thickness, which is designated by a number, this number indicating the actual length of yarn per pound, the cloth will contain threads according to the number or thickness of the yarn. The yarns that go into the warp or filling are spun from stock capable of being spun the fineness required, and the manufacturer judiciously selects his stock with not alone the fineness of yarns to be spun in his mind, but also the intrinsic value of available and suitable stock. STOCK USED in making cloth is divided into animal and vegetable fibres of various kinds, classes and grades. Value of stock is determined within its class according to its spinning possibilities, the finer it will spin the more valuable it is. The relative value of classes of stock is otherwise determined: for instance, a pound of fine cotton can be bought around 20 cents, whereas a corre- sponding fine grade of wool could not be obtained at less than SO cents, and yet the above cotton can spin 84,000 yards per pound, while the above fine grade of wool could not spin more than 33.600 yards per pound. In speak- ing of standards of value, it is, there- fore, necessary to keep in mind that cloth made out of cotton and cloth made out of wool are calculated from different basic values. The features to be considered in es- timating the value of a fabric are: The stock used, the cost of converting the stock into yarn, tlie weaving into cloth, the finish which the cloth re- ceives, the expense of putting it on the market and manufacturing profits. The first factor, stock used, varies as to first cost by the world's laws of supply and demand, and the only way to properly handle stock is by watch- ing the variation in values of stock in the markets. The cost of converting stock into yarn is pretty well stand- ardized, so much so that the market variation for yarns is produced pri- marily by the variation of the price of stock used. The cost of weaving is determined 40 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY by various factors: First, tlie speed of the loom the fabric may be woven at; second, the number of looms one weaver can run, and third, the av- erage wages for which weavers may be employed. These different fea- tures are now well standardized, and rules of value established. Finishing includes dyeing, and it also is well standardized in its cost for material and labor in the process. Recognizing these standards estab- lished, as evidenced by the uniform- ity of prices that yarns, for instance, can be bought anywhere, we have now to consider the value of a fabric in its construction. The written language of tex- tile design is expressed on what is called point paper. This paper is lined off in small squares, the number of squares used representing the number of threads in a pattern of the design. All warp threads which are woven on the face of the cloth are expressed by an X, and the filling Medium 15 to 16 Ounce Crash. threads which are woven on the face of the cloth by an empty square. (These rules are not absolute, but the exceptions will be mentioned later.) By referring to the accompanying illustration of a fabric taken from our Woolen Glossary, an understanding may be obtained of the written lan- guage of textile design. \ 1 X X t J- X . X J a . X X t \\^ X X / / t ■3 A Design. SECOXD GRADE OF CRASH. Made of medUim grade of woo!. 15 to 16 ounce finished. l.OSO ends, IS picks; reed S — 2 — 67^.2 inches l->etween tlie iist; 6/4 flnislied. Warp: l.OSO ends. 1 1^ run 7 20./100OZ. Filling; IS piclvs. 1 V2 run S 34/100 o;.s. 15 55/100 oz. lOTo slirlnkag-e 1 55/100 oz. Equal loom weight 17 1 oz. CO.^T CALCULATION. .Med. \Aool; \'')<- . lb, or 2^c. oz. -Material; 17.1 oz. -I- 10% shrink- age = 1S.8 oz. ISS oz. " X • ' X ■ X ■ i. K • . X 'X ■ X X ■ X ■ X / y z J 1^ ^ ^ 7 / y /v// /^ /J Ay Chain Draft. the second thread is different, as the crosses or risers are differently ar- ranged, that is, the warp threads are appearing at different points from those of the first thread. This second thread is Number 2. The third thread is the same as the first, and is num- bered 1. On reaching a thread of a different arrangement from those pre- ceding, another new number is given, all repeats being marked by the num- ber of the first thread so arranged. THE CHAIN DRAFT. When this is completed the repeats are all eliminated and this provides a chain draft as per third illustration, but the above work would not give WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 43 the desired results unless provisions were made to take care of the warp threads eliminated. By referring to the fourth illustra- tion, called the dra wing-in draft, it will thus be found that the threads thrown out have been provided for, and that by drawing in repeat threads on the same harness each thread will rise Drawing-in Draft. and fall as per full design. This fea- ture adds but little to the expense in manufacturing a piece of cloth, and but little consideration in costing. The above explanation bearing on two of our woolen and worsted glos- sary fabrics is applicable to all the fabrics, as the same rule governs the cost in all cases, but in some in- stances additional features must be filling is added by a method of stitch- ing. FABRICS. There are practically but four dis- tinct classes of fabrics, namely: 1. Single fabrics in all their modifica- tion in interlacing. 2. Backed and double fabrics in which an addition is put on the back of the single fabric either by extra warp, extra filling; or a complete cloth, consisting of both warp and considered. 3. Gauze or open weave in which the threads of warp and filling are not in close weave together. 4. Pile fabrics in which loops or tufts are pulled up out of the ground fabric, producing what is known as warp piles or fabrics in which the weft to a filling is cut to form a pile, as in the case of velveteens. Two particulars respecting the yarns of which fabrics are built should be considered, the length per pound of the yarn used and its diameter. As we have stated before, the length per pound determines a yarn's num- ber, and there are three principal "classes or series of numbers which are used to designate respectively woolen, worsted and cotton. The woolen series is based on 1,600 yards of yarn per pound to the number; therefore, a pound of one-run yarn will measure 1,600 yards, and all other runs are proportionate. For in- stance, five-run yarn will be five times 1,600, which equals 8,000 yards per pound. Instead of 1,600 yards, 560 yards is the worsted yardage per pound to the Number 1 worsted, and 840 yards to the Number 1 cotton, and all calculations for weight are based on these standards. JJiameters refer to the thickness of the yarn, and are determined by the threads that will rest " side by side in one inch, and are ob- tained from the square root of the yards to the number, with a dis- count of 16 per cent tor woolen, 14 per cent for coarse worsteds, 10 per cent for fine worsteds and 8 per cent for cotton yarns. Recognizing the fac- tors that will determine the value of the fabric and the established stand- ards governing these factors, the con- ditions under which a salesman may determine the value of a fabric are comparatively simple. On making an analysis of a given fabric to ascertain its value, the first step is to take one or more square inches of cloth, more, if possible, and weigh on grain scales. Place this cloth in a higli temperature to make it bone dry, weigh again and credit the varia- tion to the presence of moisture. After keeping the cloth in a normal temperature long enough to receive normal moisture, take this fabric apart, one thread at a time, keeping the warp threads separate from the filling, and carefully count each thread, weigli the warp and the fill- ing threads separately, making a note of the weight and the number Of threads. 44 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY Assuming that the above cloth is one inch square, hy multiplving the warp threads by the width in inches the yardage of warp yarn to a yard of cloth will be ascertained. The threads in the filling multiplied by the width will give the yards of filling yarn contained in a yard of cloth. By multiplying the width inches with the yard inches and the sum of the above by grains weight of warp and grains weight of filling the aggregate yards of warp yarn and of filling yarn con- tained in one yard of this cloth will be obtained and their weight in grains. As an illustration, suppose the square inch of cloth weighed two grains of warp and two grains of filling, and that the cloth was 54 inches wide, the width multiplied by the yard inches, 54 by 36 inches, equals 1,944 square inches. This sum multi- plied by two grains would equal 3,- 888 grains or 8.88 ounces per yard of cloth. And- suppose there were 40 threads of warp per inch of cloth and 40 threads per inch of filling. The width, 54 inches, multiplied by 40 would give a total of 2,160 threads of warp and the equivalent in filling. By dividing the 2,160 threads of warp by weight in ounces, 8.88, would give 243, which is the yards per ounce, and this multiplied by 16 equals 3,- 888 yards per pound. Dividing this sum by the yarn number of either worsted, woolen or cotton denomina- tion, the yarn count can be ascertain- ed as follows: 3,888 divided by worsted count 560, number 6.94; 3,888 divided by cotton count, 840, number 4.62: 3.- 888 divided by woolen run, 1.600 yards, the size of the yarn in woolen runs would be 2.43. On the basis of the above, the value of labor required to make the cloth may be ascertained, but the stock used has not been determined. Wliether woolen, worsted or cotton, the wiry feel of cotton is easily distinguished from worsted and woolen goods, but the two latter classes are only differ- ent so far as the process of making the wool stock into yarn is concerned and the particular suitableness of stock wanted. For instance, worsted yarns can be made best from wool of long fibre, whereas woolen yarns are made from short wool. DIFFICULTIES IN COST FINDING. One of the most intricate problems in determining the cost of a wooleu fabric is the question as to the stock used in its production. No system of cost finding, however elaborate it may be, will be of material assistance in this direction. The use of chemical tests and the microscope will assist somewhat, but even when used by an expert will not give EXACT RESULTS. The only means of arriving at a prac- tical working basis is to examine the fabric, dissect it carefully, and from the appearance of the threads, with knowl- edge of the strength required to make work that will run well in the mill, the competent superintendent will be able to duplicate any cloth. The ability to do this cannot be gained from text books, but is the result of years of training in tlie various mill processes, and an intimate study of the various textile fibres. Only in this way can one hope to acquire the knowledge necessary to blend the stocks to the best advantage, and produce results that shall prove profitable to the mill. Estimating the cost of worsted cloth is much more simple, as the oppor- tunities tor manipulation are lacking. An examination of the yarns will read- ily enable one accustomed to handling them to determine the size and grade, and the price may be found in the col- umns of the American Wool and Cotton Reporter each week. The method used in determining the cloth costs will be readily understood by a perusal of the analyses of the various worsted fabrics contained in this glossary. WOOLEN AND WORSTED CLOTHS, The shorter and finer a wool is just so much easier and better it felts. This is an essential feature in finish- ing woolen goods, and woolen cloth in general is at its best when finished with a nap, and worsted with a close finish. Putting it in another way, fab- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 45 rlcs that do not want to show a weave effect in the design are best made by the woolen system, but where a clear- ly defined weave is desired the design should be made of worsted yarns and cut close by the finishing shears. The line of demarcation between woolen and worsted cloths is further accentuated in their weight. Woolen fabrics are at a disadvantage when they are made lighter than 12 ounces to a 54-inch width, but when over 16 ounces they are intrinsically better than worsted goods. On the other hand, worsted yarns made from wool of a proper length of fibre can be used in the making of the lightest and fin- est fabrics. When woolen yarns are spun from carded stock the fibres are brought together at all angles, and although producing a lofty, soft-feeling thread, they do not attain the strength or finish of a worsted thread, whereas the process of spinning worsted produces a thread made of fibres all laying parallel, the short fibres being removed in the combing process. The preparing of stock, carding, combing, drawing and spinning of worsted yarns costs more than the process of spinning and card- ing of woolen yarns. A very SIMPLE WAY OF ESTIMATING the cost of a fabric, and a fairly accu- rate one, is to recognize values in a hundred units, 61 of which are credit- ed to the value of raw material, 15 to weaving cost and 24 to tlie cost of yarn-making processes. If the actual cost of either of the above items is known, the other costs may then be computed on the basis of the known quantity. For instance, the wool stock used costs 61 cents, and the other items in combination will figure 39 cents, plus 61 cents, which equals $1. If the yarn is bought at 87 cents per pound, the aggregate price would be the same. These units of value can be obtained by referring to our current quotations of the wool and yarn mar- ket in the American Wool and Cotton Reporter. The weaving costs are sus- ceptible to a variation. All plain and lone-colored fabrics of simple design are woven on two or more looms, and the above weaving units of value are based on what is called one-loom work. Tlie two or more loom work would divide the cost, if two-loom work, by two; therefore, 15 units would then become 7% units, the yarn cost remaining 24 units and the stock 61 units. To make the above clear, if we will take a 12-ounce fabric in which the yarn used is 2-40 worsted, costing $1.05 per pound, the material being 12 ounces in weight, or three-quarters of a pound, the price for yarns will be 78.75 cents. This price includes the stock and would represent 85 units, which figure should be used on the value they represent. 78.75 cents divided by 85 equals 9.27 cents times 15 units for weaving one-loom work equals 13.90 cents, added to 78.75 cents equals 92.65 cents, but if two- loom work, add one-half only of weav- ing cost, 6.95 cents, which equals 85.70 cents, the price of the fabric. Al- lowance must always be made for wastes in the process, and it must also be kept in mind that the manu- facturer expects a profit of about 10 per cent, which, if added, equals 94.27 cents. As we have indicated above, the value of fabrics varies according to the value of stock. In the manufac- ture of woolen goods as distinct from worsted goods, there is greater lati- tude in the selection of stock for the former than the latter. This is be- cause the woolen process of making yarn permits the blending of all kinds of stock and also the use of substitutes, whereas the worsted sys- tem requires the use of wool approx- imately uniform in length of fibre; in fact, the worsted yarn-making process involves the combing out of all short fibres from the stock before It be- comes yarn. These short fibres are called noils and are used extensively by woolen mills in making woolen cioth. Generally speaking, wools come un- der three classifications; Low, fine 46 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY and medium. The comparative value of tliese wools, taking the market quo- tations of to-day, are: Low, 40 cents: medium, 50 cents, and fine 60 cents. These prices are for wools on what is called the scoured basis, that is, the wool is cleansed of all undesirable matter. The above prices are for both long and short fibre wools, which are known to the trade as combing and clothing wools. Prices obtained in the wool market generally favor comb- ed T^ools, but the above ratio of the three values will generally run about the same. Not only does the manufacturer of woolens a^"ail himself of the noils from the worsted mills, but he also uses mill wastes, straight cotton and cotton Avastes, shoddy made from tailors' clips and shoddy made from rags. Considerable skill is needed in manipulating the various kinds of wool stock and substitutes, the grades of substitutes varying as many times as straight wool. CHEAP CLOTHING. In one section of England the abil- ity to make cloth from low rag stock exceeds all others the world over. Most of the fabrics woven are made with cotton warps and are sold at very low prices. A similar fabric is made in this country and is called satinette. This may be considered the lowest grade of men's wear cloth- ing. In weaving, the warp yarns are woven in under a strain. On the con- trary, filling when woven in only re- quires to carry its own weight, and tor these reasons, the lowest class of fabrics mentioned above contain a warp of strong cotton yarn filled with heavy filling made of stock of the shortest fibres. NAPPED GOODS. One important quality required in stock for woolen goods is its felting properties. This quality enables the manufacturer after weaving to shrink his goods in the finishing process and to raise a hea\y nap, the cloth still retaining a firm feel. This finish is peculiar to overcoating fabric and cannot be obtained to advantage by the use of worsted yarns, and nap- ped overcoatings are invariably made out of woolen yarns. This brings us to the consideration of substitutes and adulteration, as a great many of these overcoating fabrics contain a blending of wool and substitutes. So far as these fabrics are concerned, cotton or its wastes are not suitable, as cotton has no felting properties. Sometimes cotton yarn is used in the warp to bind the stock of both warp and filling of a low, heavy quality, but as the amount of cotton used under such conditions is relatively small, it neither helps nor impedes the felting required. ADULTERATION. In making fabrics to cost less than what can be made from the cheapest clothing wool, the manufacturer re- sorts to substitutes. These substi- tutes are traded on -the market the same as wool, and quotations as to current prices are found in the Ameri- can Wool and Cotton Reporter in each issue under a general classification, "Rags. Shoddies, Wastes & Extracts," and other various departments. Under the section, "New Clips," will be found a list of different grades of tailors' clips. This stock is all new and of various grades. Old stock comprises a classification of rags picked up all over the country by dealers. Flannels, knit goods, serge, merino, skirted cloth, delaines and carpet, all these grades of both clips and old stock are broken up by cards, pickers or garnetts, and the best of this stock, which is called shoddy, is used by the mills in manufacturing cloth and the balance in the making of mattresses. The wastes of the mills are also on the market. Woolen wastes are under two general classifi- cations, hard and soft. The former has to be broken up before be- ing utilized in the making of yarn. Soft wastes are used just as found on the market, and cotton wastes are taken both by the woolen and cotton mills. By comparing val- ues, it may readily be seen how stock going into a fabric may be cheapened. As wool substitutes are used in WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 47 their classification of tine, medium and low, their uses are also limited by their various shades and colors. When manufacturing goods which run to light shades, light stock only can be used, and some of the latter is difficult to use under any circum- stances. Goods running to dark shades, on the other hand, can be made with a blend of wool substitutes of practi- cally any shade. This indicates that dark wool cloths are more likely to contain shoddy than light cloth, and to a certain extent, explains why TTeavy "clothing runs to dark shades, as the manufacturer can make his yarn with a greater percentage of shoddy, as it is necessarily thicker for heavy-weight goods. When making light shades and light-weight goods, manufacturers very generally resort to cotton which will not only spin to a fine thread but will color to the light- est shades. NOT DETRIMENTAL TO UTILITY. A reasonable amount of cotton used in the stock of a woolen fabric is not detrimental to its utility, nor is there any serious objection to the presence of shoddy in woolen cloth. To speak of shoddy, because it is made out of old rags, as being unsanitary is ab- surd, as shoddy in its preparation goes through a strong sulphuric acid bath and is dried in an oven of 220 degrees Fahrenlieit, which will absolutely de- stroy all germs. The only real objec- tion to the presence of cotton or shod- dy in a fabric is the difficulty of de- termining the presence and their pos- sible excessive use, and although the presence of either cotton or shoddy is not detrimental to the fabric, wool which they are there to replace is of better value. BOILING OUT. To determine the presence and pro- portion of cotton in a woolen fabric, take two or three square inches of cloth, dry it bone dry and weigh; then soak it in a 5 to 7 S.G. Baume solu- tion of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), removing as much of the soak as pos- sible by using squeeze rolls (do not touch with fingers), dry and then bake in an oven at a temperature of 220 degrees Fahrenheit for half an hour, shake out all the residue and again weigh. If the first weighing was three grains and the second only 2 grains, the sulphuric acid has de- stroyed the cotton, which showed its presence to the extent of one grain out of three, or 33 per cent. The only practical test to ascertain the pres- ence of shoddy is the unwinding of a thread and noting the length of fi- bre. By the use of a microscope it may be found that the scales or serra- tions peculiar to woolen fibre are rub- bed off. but this is not an easy way of testing. Russian Novelty Blanket. The illustration, though giving an idea of the appearance of the auto robe here described, fails to con- vey to the mind of the observer the beauty of the fabric. Both face and back are covered with a long, silky nap, which adds -materially to the effect. It is adaptable to a variety of uses and may be made in a wide rang© of styles and colorings. The sample shown has wide bars of color running transversely, the alternate stripes of olive, white and light brown combining to give it a beauty that cannot well be described and really must be seen to be appreciated. De- signing on this particular type of fab- ric is confined almost entirely to effec- tive COLOR COMBINATIONS, as weave changes would not be no- ticeable under the full, thick nap. Mills equipped with jacqurrds might turn their attention to fabrics con- structed along similar lines and should produce styles that would meet with a ready sale and earn extremely sat- isfactory dividends for the stockhold- 48 WOOLEX AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY ers, as the price of a robe at whole- sale, $11.50 to $16, Is several times the cost of material and manufacturing The great disparity between cost and selling price is an ad- ditional proof of our contention that price in many instances is not based on intrinsic value, but is simply a question as to how much can be ob- tained. This is particularly true of 4V 'I '^ ' i'ij'' Russian Blanket. the many novelty fabrics brought out from time to time, and is justified to a certain extent on many of the cloths that are dependent on the whims of fashion for their popularity. The fabric is one that might well be made by any of our do- mestic woolen mills, as no special machinery is required in its manufac- ture. The rapidly increasing use of the automobile has created a market for robes that is expanding by leaps and bounds. That greater cognizance is not taken of the opportunities offered our textile mills in this field is a matter of no little surprise. Possibly the fear that a change in the character of the demand would find them with stocks on their hands that would with diffi- culty be moved, has deterred some of our mills from attempting to cater to this trade. That extreme novelties are very poor property when the vogue for them is at an end is very true, but it hardly seems possible that a change in the style of robes would be so radical as to depreciate the price to a point where any considerable loss would be incurred. Then, too, the price of nov- elties is invariably figured on a basis that allows of a material drop in price at the end of the season, if necessary, to dispose of the small quantity in stock. The fabrication requires a good KNOWLEDGE OF STOCKS, as on the stock mixture used the suc- cess of the fabric depends entirely. A feature that is somewhat out of the ordinary in the construction of wool- en fabrics is the extreme dis- parity in weight of the warp and filling. It is not at all uncom- mon to find a fabric in which the warp or filling predominates, but the extreme difference noted here is rather unusual. The face texture is low, but the production will be lower than this fact would seem to indicate, as the back of the fabric is produced with a separate filling, though iden- tical in color and stock mixture with that used for the face. The warp has 32 ends per inch of a three-run ran- dom mix, made from a three-eighths wool and shoddy. The filling is made from mohair noils, spun to three- quarters run. The most DIFFICULT FEATURE connected with the manufacture of tijs fabric is the production of the Woolen and worsted fabrics glossary 49 filling yarns. As the stock used is rather short and slippery, it will re- quire cooperation between the carder and spinner to secure good results. The roving must be made relatively fne, as the nature of the stock will permit of but little drawing on the mule. With filling as coarse as is required to give a fabric of the desired weight, a copping machine is almost a neces- sity, as otherwise the looms will be stopped a great deal of the time for shuttle changing, which may be obvi- ated to a considerable extent by means of the slight additional expense in- volved in the copping. The finished width of the robe is 60 inches, which will necessitate laying the warp about 77 inches in the loom, and the great weight and bulk of the fabric will re- quire taking the pieces off about 36% yards long, which should give 18 fin- ished robes to each piece. The goods are fulled in the grease, well scoured, extracted and placed on the napper. When the nap has been well raised place on the wet brush, give two or three runs and steam blow them, af- terward forcing cold water through them, change ends and repeat the steam and cold water treatment. Diy, shear off the long hair, brush and cut for binding. moaoaoao ■■■■■□■■ UDBDJUUU ■naaaaBG ■ GBa«liBB ■■■Gaaaa DaauGGua ■■■■■-■■ naunGQaa ■■■■■■■G LiaL]nu«uD ■Gaaaaaa □QDnGDUB aaacaaaa S har!ie.s.s, ^jtraight dra^\'. LAYOUT. l.iflD ends, 12V2 reed, 2 per dent = 76.8". 4S picks. STOCK MIXTURI3. Warp: 7.5 "c % wool iTt 4Sc = 36e. 'Z^% Died, shoddy 'U> IGc ~ 4c. 16) 40c. Pel- ounce 2MiC. Filling: Alolnair noils fa' ISc. per lb — IVhC. per oz. CAT.CUI..4TIONS. l.'.r^fj ends 3 run = 6.40 oz. l(i'/c t;ilve-up = .64 oz. 7C.SX4,S 4S picl%,s % run = — 49.15 oz. Loom weiglit 56,19 oz. Flnisli C lljK. per blanket, 12" x 60". COST. 7-l>4 oz + 1G% shrinkage = S,2So2. 491; oz. + 20% shrinkage = 60,14 oz. 8,2s 02, (a) 21/20 = $ .207 60,14 oz, @ li/ac = ,677 Cost of stock $ .884 Manuf;icturing, 48 picks = .324 JJet cost per yard $1.20,S Double Cloth Mackinaw The derivation of the name Macki- naw, as applied to the material for outer garments so popular at present, is explained in a variety of ways. One of the most plausible is, that it comes from the common abbreviation of Mackinac, the name of an Island in the strait connecting Lakes Michigan and Huron. The name was formerly used chiefly on the upper Great Lakes and owes its origin to the fact that Fort Mackinaw was for many years the most remote post in the Northwest, and from this point a large number of Indians received their supplies, and the term Mackinaw blanket was coined to distinguish those furnished by the Government Garments made from this type of fabrics were frequently called blan- ket coats, but of late the name Macki- naw has superseded all others. The fabrics were originally all single cloths, well felted and practically re- pellent, but at present many are made in cloths of double construction and are not felted to any extent. The characteristic of the cloth is the bold design in strongly contrasting colors. The manufacture of these fabrics has been the means of keeping many looms employed that otherwise would 50 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY have been idle for the past year or more. Coats of the most bizarre ap- pearance have been extremely popu- lar among the younger men and women, particularly in schools and colleges. In some instances, the col- lege colors are skillfully blended in the cloth and a very pleasing effect is pro- duced. The fabric presents no par- ticular difficulty in its production and can be manufactured by any mill with ordinary fancy cassimere equipment. The fabrics are made in all grades, from the lowest cotton and shoddy combination to that constructed of pure wool. The sample we have for analysis is made entirely of well- grown shorn wool of quarter-blood grade. If wools are purchased that are well graded, VERY LITTLE SORTING will be required, in fact the fleeces need only to be skirted if the entire production of the mill is to be this one fabric. The skirted stock should be run through a duster it any con- siderable quantity of loose dirt is present, so that as much as possible may be removed before the scouring operation, the best form of duster to be used for this purpose is an open question. Many manufacturers are opposed to the use of the cone duster or willow, as it is commonly termed, claiming that its action is too harsh and tends to shorten the fibre to a considerable degree. This feature, however, is not as prominent a factor in treating clothing wools as it would be in the case of long stapled combing wools. It is probably the most common type of duster to be found in modern wool- en mills and is well adapted to the purpose for which it is constructed. The operation of the machine is very simple and requires no particular skill in its care or operation. The principle of operation is simply beat- ing the wool by means of a revolving cylinder below which a screen is sus- pended that allows the foreign matter to fall through, retaining the stock. The cylinder is cone-shaned. the larger end about 48 inches and the smaller end 24 inches in d'ametpr. with a length of anproximatelv eight feet. The cylinder is built upon a shaft of some two inches in diameter, with spiders or arms to which wooden lags or rails are attached, usually four in number. Each lag is supplied with iron teeth projecting about three inches. At the back of the machine is a cylinder provided with short, curved or cockspur teeth, which serve to comb or open out the wool as it is operated on by the straight teeth of the main cylinder. The screen under the main cylinder is made In two parts, so that it may be readily removed for cleaning. To remove the lighter dust and chaff, AN EXHAUST FAN is usually provided, which is attached to the top of the duster and connected to the inside of the cover of the cylin- der. In operation, a current of air Is in constant motion through the dust- er, carrying away the dust and lighter impurities through a pipe discharging outside the mill. To prevent the stock from being removed with the dirt a suitable screen is placed below the fan opening. The lower part of the duster is made as nearly air-tight as possible, so that the air in the space below the screen will be compara- tively without motion: by so doing the draft induced by the fan will not prevent the falling of the heavier por- tions of the dirt as they are loosened from the wool by the action of the cvlinder and dron through the screen. The feeding mechanism consists of an apron of lattice on which the wool mav be fed by hand or a self-feed. This apron receives its motion from a train of gears so arrane-ed that the movement of a lever enables the op- erator to stop the travel of the apron. At the delivery end of the anron are a pair of rocksnur rol's. which, work- ing in coniunction with the apron, de- liver the wool to the cvlinder. To operate the machine, the wool is fed to the moving feed apron and de- livered to the cocksnur feed rolls. The teeth of the cylinder then beat the stock, loosening the impurities, and the heavy dirt drons through th» screen under the cylinder, the lighter dust, etc., being drawn off by the fan. The stock passes from the small end of the cylinder to the larger end and is discharged through an opening at WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 51 the back. The use of a machine ot this character is to be commended, as it puts the stocli in excellent con- dition for the next operation, that ot scouring. THE PROPER SCOURING OF WOOL is an operation that requires not only a certain skill on the part of the op- erator, but also proper appliances and pure materials. While it is true that wools of the type used in Mackinaws are capable of standing much harsher treatment without serious injury than finer grades, it is not advisable to use harsh alkalis as detergents. It is un- usual for such wools to be lieavily yolked, and that being the case, a strong soap will not be necessary to cleanse them perfectly. The best ma- terial to use is a pure potash soap containing no free caustic alkali. To strengthen this, a very satisfactory product is urine substitute, or ammo- niated potash. The scouring liquor need not be particularly strong and above all, see that the temperature is not over 130 degrees Fahrenheit. Strong alkalis and hot baths are responsible for a great part of the poor work in subsequent op- erations. The scouring bath for wools of this type may be made up with soda soans if desired, but it is not to be advised, particularly if part of the stock is to be used in the white. The use of soda has a very pronounced tendency to produce a yellow tinge on the wool and should be avoided whenever possible. The scouring machine should have not less than three bowls, the first two containing scouring liquors, the last clear water for rinsing. A very eco- nomical arrangement is one that dis- charges the wool from the last bowl of the scouring machine to a travel- ing apron which, in turn, delivers it to the feed anron of the drying ma- chine. By means of such an arrange- ment in connection with a self-feed for the scouring machine two men will be able to scour and dry ten thousand pounds of wool daily. The mistake is often mflde of drv- ing the stock too rapidly, in fact the use of artificial heat in wool drying should be avoided if practicable, as stock dried naturally will produce goods having a much better handle than can be obtained from stocks dried by artificial means. The wool is more lofty and has a decidedly softer, fuller touch. The dyeing ot the raw stock is usually accomplished in round wooden "kettles" holding from 50 to 300 pounds. Better results are obtained it the kettles are not crowded, allowing plenty of room for the stock, witli a sufficient bath to float and cover the wool. The dyestutts used may be for bot- tom or top chrome process, as the dyer elects, though top chromes are to be preferred, giving slightly brighter colors. Too much poling sliould be avoided, as the stock is liable to become rolled and difficult to open out on the cards. In the picker room the use of mineral oils should not be permitted, as they are extremely difficult to remove in the finishing process. The lubricant best suited to wool is, ot course, olive oil, but its extremely higli price prohibits its use on ordinary fabrics. In default of this we are forced to use a less expensive oil, and find that a GOOD RED OR LARD OIL will answer the purpose nicely. The emulsion may be prepared by mixing the oil and water in the proportions of two parts water to one part oil, emulsifying the mixture by the addi- tion ot a small quantity ot borax or other mild alkali. Tlie emulsion may be applied hot and after a light beat- ing with a pole to spread the emulsion through the stock, the picking opera- tion may be started. In the case ot all wool solid colors, it will be un- necessary to put through the mixing picker but once. If there are several colors in the mixture, or a variety of stocks to be blended, it will be neces- sary to run at least three times to ob- tain a homogeneous mixture. MANY CASES OF TROUBLE in the finishing room may be traced back to careless or improper work in the preparatory processes. It is not unusual to find that the cause of cockles, which develop in the fulling mill, is insufficient mixing of the stocks in the picker house. Difficulty in scouring fabrics is frequently caused by the use of an oil on the 62 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY stock which does not readily saponify, or may be traced still larther back to the wool scouring, where improper handling or the use of hard water may have had an effect on the wool that will require much time and labor to remedy. The carding of stocks such as these is comparatively simple, as the wools are open and lofty with little or no short fibre to create pills or nibs. The clothing should be in good condi- tion, the workers not set too close, yet with sufficient contact to comb out the stock and complete the mix- ing. The condensers need not be set close, as the stock will make good roving without hard rubbing. In us- ing all wool for the mixture, the rov- ing may be made heavier thaii would be possible were there any consid- erable quantity of short stock used. This will enaljle the carder to pro- duce roving enough from two cards to keep three ordinary mules busy and reduce; his expense per pound to a very satisfactory fig- ure. With well-made roving from quarter-blood stock the mules should not stop from start to finish of a set, except for piecing in spools or work of that nature. It should be no trouble for a spinner to keep his ends up, as breakages from any cause should be very rare. Yarns snun well should be even, full and round, with sufficient elasticity to permit of stretching at least four inches to the yard. Prom such yarns it is possible to dress warps that will give maximum pro- duction in the weave room. The snooling is a verv important opera- tion, though by many not so consid- ered if resuHs a'^e to hp tne basis of opinion. The knots must be tied In such a manner as to avoid slipnlng and without lop~ ends to twist around the other threads in weaving. The tension must be alike on each thread and spools made free from boles or double ends. It is frenuently said that a warn well spooled is half dressed, and anvone who has had ex- perience with both classes of spool- ing will readily confirm th"^ truth of the proverb. The dressing may be done at fairly high speed with good yam well spooled, but too much ten- sion should not be placed on th* spools. The ideal warp is one free from threads out, with sections even, and all the LIFE AND ELASTICITY RETAINED in the yarn. With these conditions fulfilled the lot of the weaver should be comparatively easy. With the loom in good shape, the speed may be 100 picks a minute and give perfect results, as the weave is not hard aor the harnesses crowded. When the warp is started, the fixer should see that the loom is in as nearly perfect condition as may be, every nut tight, the boxes and picking motion as well as the head motion timed correctly, and the shuttles smooth, free from defective eyes and with sharp points. Examine the pickers, see that they throw the shuttle straight and that picker and power straps are in good condition. The stop motion should be inspected and oiled, as it is not easily reached when the cloth Is weaving. After measuring and Inspecting In the weave room, the pieces are ready for the burlers. For this operation the girls should be furnished with a sloping table with perfectly smooth top, preferably of metal, which will enable them to detect the knots very readily, as the hands are passed over the surface of the goods. Re- move all foreign matter, slugs, etc., and mark all imperfections which re- nuire the attention of the sewers. After the pieces have been burled and sewed they should have some work on the nanping machine in the grease. This is not customary In fln- ishing casslmeres, and is not neces- sary In finishing Macklnaws com- posed entirely of wool, but is very essential on low-grade goods. THE PULLING will not renuire much time nor a strong soap. A very satisfac- tory fulling soap for all wool goods may be made up with a pure neutral palm oil soap, built un to the requisite strength with a good alkali. Care must be taken to have the soap evenly distributed over the pieces or uneven fulling will be the result. Heavv Mackinaws will need to be fulled to within an inch of the fin- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 53 fshed width, as they will go up in width very little in subsequent opera- tions. From the fulling mills they should go at once to the washers and usually may be scoured without the use ot additional soap. The goods should be first washed with warm water to float out all the dirt and grease, then rinsed for 20 to 30 min- utes in cold water; before removing from the washer a quart of ammonia may be added to the rinse water, which will brighten the colors some- what. After drying give a run on the brush and then shear to even up the naD and remove any long fibres, give a light press, inspect and roll up. LAYOUT, :,6S8 enils: reerl 9% — 4 = 70.7" + 1%~ for listing: — 72.2" over all. 4S picks. CAT.CULATIONi:!. 2,fiR.S endL 2 run = 13.44 oz. + 7% ■ = 14.38 oz. 48 X 72.2 48 picks 2 H run ^= ^15.40oz. 226 . Loom weight 29.78 oz. COST. 23.7.S oz, + 15% shrinkage = 36.03oz. 3.1.03 oz. UTi 400, per lb = t .87675 Miinufactuilne, 4S picks = .35000 Mill cost $1.22575 Dressed: Mixture 112 24 12 40 12 24 112 336 Black 32 13 12 12 12 32 112 448 •6 2.688 'Sections. Filling: White 32 12 12 12 12 32 112 Mixtuie 116 24 12 48 12 24 116 352 464 ■GcinmBB ■CDDDnBa ■ •■I13D •■■•' mamm ■ ■ -^-mzi n»»»B GDD nGaTiD^cnniBB en l1 ■GBaiaiZ'_:G^BaaBn C nTJI'lB'^G^r.: ■□■■1 ^ a:]^^ iiiBa ^~« :,■■■■ O acTr iia «._■■-■ a oL aiajaraaaaa^ '~aa r mr_i :izzz'iuim" r^ :jn ^ aai^^'^c; aaaa^Gaa CGiaaGGGGG-can^n DjiaaaazaGasBaaD a^.z^aGacnnnnaaaa anan aaaacacaaaa BANNOCKBURNS The name Bannockburn is now applied to a number of cloths which are not even remotely related to the true type of fabric of this name. The origin of the peculiar cloth bearing this name is a subject of dispute, but all agree that it was originated in Scotland, some claiming the honor of its introduc- tion to a Galashiels weaver, others as stoutly maintaining that the first Ban- nockburn to be sold as such was the product of an Alva loom. Be that as it may, the typical Bannockburn tweed is now well and favorably known wher- ever the English language is spoken. The fabric, while in construction very similar to the ordinary Scotch tweed, having practically the same tex- ture and manufactured from the same stock, differs materially in appear- ance. The fabrics commonly known as tweeds are made from threads of two-ply yarns, alternated with a thread of single, as are the fabrics here described. The distinguishing feature of the cloth under discussion is the fact that in making the two-ply thread, commonly termed Double and Twist, the two threads used for producing the finished yarn are ot contrasting colors, while in the ordinary tweed the single tlireads are of the same color, and when twisted show comparatively little of the twist effect. To anyone at all familiar with textile manufacturing, it is not necessary to state that the use of two colors in producing a double and twist thread permits of developing a variety of styles of singular beauty. By the judicious selectiou of colors for the primary threads and good taste in combining them on the twisting frame, it is possible to produce an extremely satisfactory line ot twists, which the skilled designer, with his knowledge of weaves, may blend Missing Page Missing Page B6 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 5,54 oz. 2/4 run D, T, T\arp. 6. OS oz. 2/4 run D. T. filling. 3.3 1 oz. 3 i-i run warp. 14.99 oz. + 157c shrinkage = 17.24 oz. @ 5.0274 = $ -4724 4.S6 oz. 2% run filling + 157c shrinkage = 5.59 oz. ig. S.0244 = .1363 % .60S7 Manufacturing: 32 picks .2590 Mill cost « -8677 r.oom %veight, 22. S3 oz. 22 2-10-OUNCE BANNOCKBURN SUITING. The 22 2-10-ounce, 56-iiich wide bannockburn is made with heavier yarns and lower-priced stock blend than in sample of 18-ounce just de- scribed. X 4 In dent = 6SMi'" plus 2" for listing ^ 22 2-10-Ounce Bannockburn, 56 Inches Wide. Layout: 1,920 ends, reed " inside of listing 70 "tj" o\er all. 28 picks. Warp; A Black and white D. T. 2/2Mi and 3 "A run B Black and red D. T. 2/2 ^i and Z^ run C Black and gold D. T. 2/2 ii and 3 i4 run COST CALCULATION. Material: The black for doable twist is spun H draft, t\\ist to the left, to 2^,s run, allow- ing 5 ■;"(:, take-up in twisting, oO^c med. wool ^ 45c = $ .2250 507, shoddy -a Isc = .0900 16) $ .3150 An ounce $ .0197 Ihe white, red and gold for double twist is si'un ^2 draft. t\\'ist to left. 3% run to allow about i% take-up in twisting. 707 med. wool ® 45c = t .3160 307c, shoddy :& 33c = .0990 16) $ .4140 .\n ounce $ .0259 2, '2-3 and 3 Sg run warp D, T, is twisted 11 turns per inch to tlie right, o\% black 2% run ® $,0197,,. = ( .0114 427c color Z'l, run fa 8.0259... = .0109 Cost per ounce $ .0223 Tlie black filling is spun l^ draft 1^ run t\\ 1st to the right. 70'"^ shoddy '5 ISc = t .1260 307c med. wool fg' 4oc ^ .1350 16) t .2610 An ounce i .0163 = 2 X 480 = 1 X 480 = 1 X 480 960 480 480 Filling: 28 picks. Black 134 run. CH.ilN DR-1FT. ■DGa ■ ■ D Goaa STR.-VIGHT DR.A.W. -Twill rune to the left on face. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 57 »Varp: l,a:;0 enda 2/2% and 3 '^ run 10.97 oz. Plus 10% loom shrlnk- Filling: 2s picks X picks 1^4 PMus lU.'/o 70%" = 1,974 run 11.25 oz. loom shrlnk- 12. Flnisiied 12.06 oz. 2/2% run warp + 15% shrinkage weigiit 22.22 oz. - .= 13.87 jg> $.0223 = 24. .43 oz .3093 .2419 2S.71 oz. * .5512 .2420 Mill cost $ .7932 loom welfeilit, -!n.71 ounces. HAIR LINE DRESS GOODS The hair line and tricot are very closely allied fabrics, and a few years ago formed the major part of the output of many of our woolen mills. The cloths were made in a great variety of weights and colors for both men's and women's wear. By changing the color arrangement in the dressing pat- Hair Line Dress Goods. tern it is possible to make a variety of widths of stripes. The patterns most in vogue were the single thread hair line and the double thread stripe shown in the illustration at the head of this description. The weave em- ployed for the production of the hair line is the four-harness broken twill, three up and one down, and is used in the lighter weights without either warp or filling back. The goods were invariably made with a Clear Finish and from Fine Wools. At the present time they are manufactured in very small quantities, the vogue having been superseded almost entirely by other styles. The most recent example of the fabric which has come to our notice is one made 6S WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY from coarse stock, with a semi-cheviot finish in overcoating weight. The fabric illustrated is primarily intended for use as dress goods and is made from a fine medium wool in two shades of mixture. The blends must be thoroughly mixed in the picker room so as to avoid the Blotchy Appearance that is characteristic of so many of the mixtures shown by mills where attention to detail is not, to say the least, carried to extremes. To pro- duce the best results on fabrics of this character, particular attention should be given to the selection of the wools used for the light colors in the mixture, as by so doing the danger of specks can be eliminated to a very marked degree. The wools should be free and open, with no sign of "pills" or nits. The cards must be in excellent condition, the clothing true and sharp, and set close enough to give a clean, clear sliver from the second breaker. As the stock used is a fine clear wool it will be possible to make the roving fairly heavy, half draft at least. That is to say, the weight of 25 yards of roving w^ill equal that of .50 yards of yarn. This will not only give a relatively larger production from the card room but will allow sufficient drafting on the mule to insure a well made, round, elastic thread that will give an excellent account of itself in the weaving and finishing processes. Hair lines of the type here described are Not Felted to Any Extent, and are therefore laid comparatively narrow in the reed. Indeed, to many who are accustomed to the heavier, finer fabrics for men's wear purposes, it may appear that the width given in our layout is entirely Inadequate to produce the desired results. This is not the case, however, as the layout here given is not theoretical, but is taken from actual mill practice, and has been found to give excellent results. The scouring may be done before fulling, or may follow that operation, as the judgment of the finisher may in- dicate. AVIien drv. the ii'eces sho'ib' be well brushed, and should shear out sufficiently clear without the application of the napping process. After shearing, brush, spray and press. 9 3-10-Ounce Hair Line Dress Goods. Layout: l,6ii4 ends 3 Vi run w,arp 4,72 oz. 1.664 ends, repd, 13 X 2 in dent. 64" -I- Plus 10%, loom take-up 5.05 02. 2" for listing = 66". I.'IS piclis 3 ?i run fill- 26 piclts. '"S 4.57 oz. Four liarness. Plus 5% loom talie-up.. 4.75 oz. STRAIGHT DRAW. Finished weight 9.29 oz. 9.S0oz, , . COST CALCb'LATION. £•£•&& Material: 3 c3 JS W'rirp and filling: SS'* Med. wool @ 54c = % .5400 2-2E 16) $ .5400 g mmmr pk-/'',' An ounce $ .0337 Z Bzaa Lt. till. O !■_■ Dk. fill. The warp \-arn is spun 14 draft 3 1^ runs - ^■■" Lt. fill. twist to nglit. The filling Is spun % draft — 33.1 run, twist to right. H.ARNESS DRAFT, A Light mlxturt 3 Vi run I 2 1 I = 2 X 416 = S32 B Dark mixture 3 'i run I | 2 1 = 2 X 416 = S32 4 X 416 = 1,6 64 Fining: 26 picks per Inch X 66" = 1,716, A Light mixture 3^4 run ill 1 = 1 B Dark mixture 3 ?i run I I 1 I = 1 9 80 oz. + 1 2 c^ shrinkage = 10,9 S oz ® 5,033 7 = $ ,369 5 Manufacturing: 26 picks ,2340 Mill cost (per yard) J .6036 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 59 LADIES' COATING FABRIC Changeable in Shade. Nothing is ir.ore subject to the vagaries of fashion than tlie fabrics used for ladies' coats. Some twenty years ago various types of boucles v-zere very mucli in evidence and liave been superseded by a variety oi novelty cloths until (he cycle has been conipleted. and the boucle is once more in favor. Not many years have elapsed since the fabric here described and illustrated was extremely popular tor spring and fall jackets, while at the present time it is doubtful if such a cloth could hp marketed at any price. 11-Ounce Ladies' Coaung Faoric. The peculiar characteristic of the fabric is obtained, not alone by the weave or color, but by a tasteful combination of the weave best adapted to bring out the effect and well-selected shades of warp and filling in contrasting colors. The general effect is a two-toned cloth, changing color as the angle of vision changes. These cloths are finished clear, so as to imitate as nearly as possible a fabric made from worsted yarns. ('ij.trarj' to ihe eeneral opinion, this effect is not to be obtained by giving excessive twist to the yarn, but rather by using less than the standard number of turns to the inch. Those conversant with the method of manu- facturing both types of yarn will readily appreciate the reason for reducing 60 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY the twist. In the manufacture of worsted yarns, it will be remembered, the method pursued is to draft endwise, constantly reducing the size of the drawing until a roving is produced small enough to spin to tlie re- quired number. The resulting thread is one tliat has its constituent fibres laid parallel to each other and extended to -their full length. As the eye looks on the finished thread it sees only the sides of a bundle of fibres. Woolen yarns, ou the other hand, are not made by endwise drafting, nor is the par_-.llelization of the fibres a leature of the sys.e.u of min.itacture. The combing effect of the card is neutralized to a great extent by the method of taking the stock from tlie doffer. Instead of removing the web in the direction of its line of motion through tlie card itself, it Is drawn off at right angles through a tube at the side, and this "side drawing," as it is Placed Diagonally on the feed table of the next machine. In forming the roving for the mules, the procedure is very different fro ii the gradual reduction of the worsted sliver by successive draftings. The -wool is removed from the rapidly revolving cylinder, by the ring doffers, whose surtace velocity is only a fractional part of that of the cylinder, which deposits on them a very much jumbled up mass o; fibres, which are anything but parallel. In the spinning operation, it is true there is a certain amount of drafting, but nothing like sufiicient to place the fibres parallel. In looking at a woolen thread the eye gets a view of a tangled mass of fibres lying in all directions, with the ends and sides presented indiscriminately, and the greater the amount of twist in the yarn, the greater the confusion of fibres resulting. To approximate the appearance of a worsted thread, there- fore, the less the effect of the drawing on the mule, should be neutralized by twisting. To obtain the best results on fabrics of the type here describ- ed, it is necessary that the selection of the wools to be used receive careful attention. The stock must be fine, with good staple and more than average felting qualities. The Fine Medium or Half-Blood Montanas possess these characteristics and will be found peculiarly adapted for the purpose. The fleeces should be carefully sorted, the paint and large masses of burs clipped out. In scouring stock of this grade, no harsh deter- gents should be used, nor should the scouring bath be over 12.5 to 130 degrees Fahrenheit. Excessive heat and improper materials used in scouring will have a very serious effect on the working qualities of the wool. Another source of injury to the wool 1 bre that is frequently overlooked is the use of too great heat in the drying. If time will permit, no better method of drying wool can possibly be used than the so-cjUed cold air syste ii. This 'lethod consists of placing the wool in a suitable screen or dryer and forcing air, at the normal temperature of the room, through the stock. This method retains all the life and vitality in tlie stock, with no impairment of its work- ing qualities. The importance of retaining, as far as possible, the natural characteris- tics of the wool fibres is too often l"St sight of in the rush to get the raw- stock into finished goods in the shortest possible time. This is a very serious mistake, and is responsible, largely, lor the fancied superiority of the fabrics made abroad. The gain in time is more apparent than real, and the necessity for such undue haste can readily he overco i.e by making systematic plans for the -work to be accomplished. - It will invariably be found that in the mill where lots have to be rushed through the various departn;ents to avoid delaying some advanced operation, the Fundamental Defect is a lack of system which might be easily re'iiedied, with a marked increase of ef?!ciercy. and a n^tiMe i^-'p'-ovPTiePt in results. T^Tien dry. the -wool WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 61 may be taken to the dyehouse, frequently the source of much subsequent trouble. To one unfamiliar with the woolen business it may seem strange to have the statement that the "wool was burned in the dyehouse," but that is a familiar tale from the carder when questioned as to the reason for a certain lot running so badly. That irreparable injury may be done the wool during the dyeing is a laci loo oiten veriued m acUial e.xpeiipuce tu need any proof here. Excessive boiling is one very common cause of serious trouble in the card room and should be avoided in every case. It is im- possible for the best of dyers to get the desired shade at the first attempt every time, but care in poling the wool and good judgnient in using the shading colors will do much toward lessening this evil. When colored and dried the stock is ready for the picker house, and if it contains burs Should Be Run Through the Bur Picker for their removal. The batches for these fabrics are usually solid colors, and may be oiled and run through the mi.King picker once, wlucli should put them in condition for the cards. Before placing the lot on the cirds, they should be ground if necessary, and the setiing adjusted tor the stock. Better results will be obtained from a set clothed with fine wire. For yarns of this size and quality the first breaker should be clothed with wire not coarser than o2. with 34 on the second breaker and nnisher. Make the roving three and a half run for the warp and three run for the filling, which will give draft enough to make a smooth, strong thread with medium twist. No sizing should be required in the dressing, though many manufacturers will not agree with this statement. The weave used is usually the nine or ten harness whipcord, not an especially hard weave, and should give excellent results in the way of production with a minimum of imperfections due to warp breakage. Burling and sewing follow the usual routine and the goods should be fulled to 56 inches before scouring. Do not trap in the mills as the goods are to finish loom yards. Prom the fulling mills, trausier at once to the washer, where they must be scoured thoroughly clean. Dry, shear, brush and press. To avoid rolling of the listings use two extra harnesses, drawing the list- ing two in a heddle and weave two up and two down. Ten liarness. Whipcord. Repeat after five. = ~7 F ra "x ~~^ ^ [x] K X /a X ^ X >^ X X X ? K X X X X X i ^ X X X X X ; X X X X X X i . X X X X X }L r X X X X X K v X K X • X X xi J X , X >; X X A i Xi X •: • X X X • ^ / / ^• J t J- 4 / ■f / /c Nine harness. Whipcord. "[■ X "xl X • X X ^ X X X , X X y X X X X X ; X X K X X ■ ^ X X ■ X X X r X X X X X ■ i- X X X X X -J X X X X X s X • <. X X X / / ■f. (/ ^ r ^ / / ? STRAIGHT DRAW. STRAIGHT DRAW. 62 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY J,6w ends, 46 picks. Kced: lo — i—&^.~6" betwt-en listing. Warp: 3,600 thr., 6V2 run 5.54 oz. Filling; 4t; pi'.-ks, 6 run - 5.46 oz. 11. OU uz. \(}^o lo> m take-up 1- l^J oz. Loom weight I-'IO oz. CUST CALCULATION \\ dip and Filling; Ir'ine gi adt^ u uul (^ S^^c. an OZ = i .oSOu Material: V-Ai' plus 15'^c shrinkage ly.yiJ uz. rti iJ^aC = $ .4S72 .M;i luiiiU'iunng; 46 picks .3160 Mill cost $ .S032 Til cheapen this fabric use '1d7c fine shoddy in filling. MIXTURE OVERCOATINGS Finished 24 Ounces. The overcoatings here illustrated are made from heavy yarn, frequently in rather bold designs, and \vhen well-tailored have the nobby appearance that appeals to the man who wants something stylish but not extreme. The wools used are well-selected, bright fleeces, which aid very materially in 24-Ounce Fancy Overcoating. giving character to the fabric. The fancy 24-ounce fabric is made with a verv light mix or a white warp, with dark mixture or solid-colored filling. This tends to Emphasize the Weave Design, and throws the light spots into bold contrast. Opportunities for the design- er to show his skill in weave formation are well afforded in cloths of this WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 63 uature, as the contrast in color ot warp and filling is of great assistance in making the patterns well defined. In selecting the wools to be used for the white in the mixture, special attention should be paid to its freedom Irom the extremely short fibres which are apt to form nibs during the carding, and cannot be opened up thoroughly, forming specks, a defect that must be avoided at all hazards. Have the stock v>ell sorted, and scour with a pure, well-made soap in a bath not exceeding 120 to 130 degrees Fahrenheit in temperature. The por- tion of wool intended to he used for white, either in mixture or solid, need not be dried but placed in The Bleaching Liquor, which has previously been prepared. Of the many methods ot bleaching in common use, the most feasible for the mill without special facilities is prob- ably the use of bisulphite. This simply requires a clean dye-tub, and gives excellent results. The operation is extremely simple, and may be under- taken by any dyer without tear of injuring the stock or failure to secure a good bleach. The bath is prepared with 60 pounds of bisulphite of soda and 10 pounds of sulphuiic acid in .500 gallons of water. This is sufficient for 300 pounds of wool. The wool should be well poled for a short time to insure thorough BASKET LEAF TWILL. ~ • . X ~ X X X / • ■ ■ /- X X X ^ • . « X X X X ^ H X . V ;v X X X • r O . X X X . ■. • X U li< X X X X • • ■ ,• t J X X 5< ^ . • • • ^ X X X y • • • / / V J u r ^ / • Warp ; Bleached white medium wool. Filling:: Plain l:dack or g-ray mixture; also made in herringbones. FOUR-T.KAF TWILL, FACE AND BACK. F] ra r$ .3800 An ounce 2.12y2C. Material: l'6.1i9 plus 15%; 2.75 shrinkage. ■:d.()-i ounces @ 2.12"=^c $,6171 ^Manufacturing: 31: pick.^ .I'i- clotli shrink.'ige .2590 .0462 Loom weight 26.29 oz. Mill cost $ .9221 penetration of the bleaching liquor, and allowed to remain four or five hours, or still better, overnight. In the morning draw off the kettle, allow the stock to drain for a short time, extract and dry. Many superintendents object to the dead white of the bleached stock, which may be corrected by the use of a thin blue. A small percentage of a blue similar in type to S.K.Y. will change the shade of the resulting mixture to the steely tone which the 64 Woolen and worsted fabrics GbossARi majority of buyers prefer to the effect ot the clear white. Have the stock well mixed in the picker room, using four quarts of oil to the hundred, in- suring ease of carding with little or no breaking of the fibre, and conse- quently Much Less Waste. A very common mistake made at this point in manufacturing is the ap- plication of too little oil, or the use of an inferior grade. This is an instance of "saving at the spigot, and wasting at the bunghole," characteristic of some managers. The extra expense involved by (he use of good oil in suf- MAYO TWILL FACE. FOUR LE.AF TWILL BACK. FULL DRAFT. = pf ~ X Fl ^ ><, ^1 P X r ^ P^ K i^ M /<;■.■ ~ T , X ■ X !<, ■ ^ X A r //- ~ "' y k. K K ^ « ,>; X X Ji _i >>-, ~ '"^ ^ y X ■ ^ >s -S ' V _ ^ X y K x- , ^ ^X X X ->^ A v» *" X J(^ , X X ~ ■V V y ~ _*_ ■ Ji z wK s X X X '0 - V T 1i. T ■^ K ■ X X, 1 x^ . X . < )< X X X ^ X A X f^ 1 ~ ~r ~ f^ X ^ X. ?^ ^ r ~ V ~ V X X y, \ X X, X X ^ ■ 6 - — ^ y . y, ' X r — _)<; 2i J$ K^ . >c r. y >; ?s X . ?^ !> ~ xi X X • ■ X A y ■ Nf ~ '^ X y y ><- y X y X, x; V ^ t^ " A K ^ A, -X _ X, / / ; t /O J // f --.^ / ; ^ /^ / /^ ^ ^ <.!jay mixtures. ]'>7r L^r.Tdt wool. Filline: I'l.Tin black. 27[/2"Ounce Overcoating. Layout: :;,640 ends. 38 picks. Kreii 9 — 4— 7^ l-:s incties wide between listing. 2.640 tlir., 2 run 13.20 oz. Flll^ns;: ,,,„ 3S picks. 2 run 14.30 oz. 27.50 oz Loom tal;e-up, 10% ^-^^ oz. 1 r.nm we|e-ht Sn 2S or. COST CALCULATION. Made from same stock as above, 2.12^c. an oz. Material: 30. 2.S oz. plus 157o shrinkage. 4.53 oz. 34.78 oz. @ 2.121^0 $ .7390 Manufacturing; 3S picks 2830 5% a yard cioth shrinkage 0540 Mili cost $1.0760 ficient quantity to thoroughly lubricate the fibres will be more than over- come by the superior quality of the product and the greatly increased yield of yarn from a given weight of stock laid down at the picker. On the thor- ough performance of the work in the picker room the success of subsequent operations depends very largely. The superintendent would do well to per- sonally supervise the weighing and oiling of every batch, making sure that each lot is made up exactly as it should be. In carding, the ambition of the I WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 65 overseer should be to produce the greatest possible weight of perfect rov- ing from each lot. The use of the adjective is intentional, as it will be readily appreciated that only from perfect roving can the spinner make per- fect yarn. Too many carders are able to see but one process, that in which they are particularly interested, and are prone to place the blame for in- ferior work on the dyer or the stock, when, in many instances, it belongs in his own department. To obtain perfect cloth it is absolutely essential that each aepartment head work in harmony with the others, but cases are often found where each overseer seems rejoiced to slight his work to a degree not easily discoverable and make trouble for those in charge of further proc- esses. It is especially essential for the carder and spinner to work together, as the processes are related as closely as the fingers to the hand. Production may be greatly increased by mutual co-operation in these departments. A slight change in the draft on the mules will enable the carder to secure a substantial increase in his output, while a change on the cards may make a material difference in the work on the mules. The roving should be made about two-thirds draft, medium twist to the right in the warp, with the filling twisted to the left. The installation of wide gauge mules with special long spindles for spinning warp yarns will give a Considerable Increase of Production over the standard gauge found in most of our fancy cassimere mills. One reason that so few are used is probably the fact that it would cause the purchasing of new jack spools and bobbins, which could be used only for making warp. This objection has but little weight in fact, as the danger of mixing bobbins is practically negligible, while, when the same bobbins are used for both warp and filling, there is a possibility of having a few bobbins of filling spooled with the warp, causing a vast deal of trouble in the weav- ing and finishing departments. The looms should be provided with beams having extra large flanges, in this manner reducing the stoppage Incident to putting in new warps, and ■ also making a noticeable decrease in the waste from thrums and head ends. Burling and sewing should be carefully done, the pieces then being taken to the wet finishing department. Fulling should be done in the grease, if possible, not only to save time, but as a matter of economy in materials as well. Scoured fulling Involves the use of more soap, and is not to be advised except in cases where absolutely necessary. The soap used should be a pure neutral base, as the necessary alkali can be added in the boiling tank at a much less price than that paid for soap. The best soap to use is one for the finisher and superintendent to decide. Some of our expert finishers refuse to use tallow soaps under any circumstances, while others think it impossible to Get the Best Results without at least a percentage of tallow soap in the fulling mixture. Apply the soap cold, leaving the door of the mill open until the soap has been taken up by the cloth, then close all doors, examining the goods from time to time to see that the work is progressing satisfactorily. Full to 56 inches In width, with 5 per cent shrinkage in length. This should give a firm, well- handling cloth. Scour for 30 to 40 minutes in warm water, rinse well, ex- tract and take to the napping machine. One or two light runs should give the nap required, and the pieces may then be dried. Shear off the long fi- bres, give a run on the steam brush and a moderate pressing. A fabric made In this manner will give excellent service in the garment. The plain mixture overcoating shown is made from the same stock and 66 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY size of yarn as the novelty just described. The face is v.-oven with the Mayo t'n-ill, the back with the regular four-harness, two-up-two-down twill. The greater weight is obtained by using a higher texture in both warp and fill- ing. Great care sliould be used in making the mixtures to avoid having them uneven in appearance in the finished goods. Manufacturing instructions are the same as for the fancy fabric. ■■■■■■■■[:naa [:■■:;■ '[iBBU^Bn ■■■■■■■■i:aBD ■■■■■■■■■■=G 13 y^ ■ ;z;««=B«Z-J U 11 ■ ■■■■■■■■ZZB 1^ !<' ■■■■■■■■-=■■ > 'ZZBB _BB_::ZBJ 7 BBBBBBBBLBBZ e BDB»Ur_B BOG 5 ■ BBBBBBBBB.JJ < BB;BBZ3ZBCZJ 3 BBBBBBIBBCZB BBQDL-BBunDa 1 CHAIN. DRAWING-IN DKAFT. FRIEZE Tills is a coarse, heavy woolen fabric used for ulsters, having an irreg"U- lar nap and a somewhat harsh handle. Tne name was originally given to a coarse fabric from Friesland, later applied to overcoating cloths manufac- tured in Ireland Irom the coarse native wools, the common designation of the fabric of late being "Irish Frieze." A tew years ago a large percentage of the ulsters worn were made from cloths of this type, but at present the styles demand a cloth made from entirely different types of wool, with the majority of them manufactured from chinchillas or other long-napped fab- rics. The frieze, well made, is one of the best cloths ever produced for overcoating purposes, its construction, finish and the stock used making it practically repellant. Our type sample was made from a very coarse wool combined with a coarse extract and wool waste. While this may appear to the uninitiated to be rather illy-alapted for the production of a fabric Intended to withstand considerable hard usage, the resulting fabric is one that is unusually good value for the price, and will give the wearer most excellent service in the garment. In ordei to obtain the Greatest Possible Profit in manufacturing fabrics of this character, the mill should be equipped with the machinery to make its own shoddy. The goods are very heavy, shoddy being the chief constituent, and the folly of paying a shoddy manufacturer a profit on the major part of the stock used in the mill is readily apparent, particularly as the machinery installation required is comparatively inex- pensive. At the present time, rags may be purchased graded, ready for the picker. The machinery necessary consists of a shoddy picker, possibly two, a lumper and duster. The power required is comparatively little, nor would the pay roll be increased to a great extent. The rags should be laid out for picking in the sam.e manner as a batch of wool. Successive layers are plac- ed on the floor and well oiled. Better results will be obtained if there is suf- ficient time allowed for the oil to thoroughly penetrate the stock before the picking operation is started. After picking, the stock should be run through the lumper and duster, which will remove the bits of cloth that have not WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 67 been thoroughly converted into fibre by the picker. AAHien laying out the batch for the mixing picker, the layers of stock should be so arranged that the emulsion used as a lubricant is applied to the wool. If the st,\les to be produced are solid colors for piece-dyeing, two runs through the mixing picker should be sufficient, but should It be desired to make a mixture \N'ith a Small Percentage of White or some other color, great care must be observed to have the mixture ho- mogeneous, and avoid the blotchy appearance sometimes found, due to in- sufficient blending in the picker room. — X 7 ___ X X g X X X X r H K X. X X i K X X ■ X r tf X K • X X k ! . K X X X J K X X X 2. X X X X / / -2. ^ k r ^ /■ -f DRAFT. STRAIGHT DRAW, 34-Ounce Frieze. Warp and FllUng: In all variations of mixtures, lilack, brown and blue, "with small percentLige of bleached whi'e. Layout: 1,600 ends, 24 picks. Reed: 5^ — 4 — 7:2.72" between listing. Warp: 1,600 thr., 1 run 16,00 02. Filling: 24 picks, 1 run 17.93 cz. 2" for listing 33.93 oz. 10% loom shrinkage 3.39 oz. Loom weight 37.32 oz. COST CAIjCUL.\TION. Jlaterial : 25% coarse grade wool (St 32c. ^ % .0800 60% c'rse grade shoddy @ 14c. = ,0840 15% wool waste @ 10c = .0150 16) $ .1790 An ounce ? .0112 37.32 oz plus 15% shrinkage. Material: 42.91 oz. C" $.0112 = f .4806 Manufacturing: 24 picks = .2260 10%, shrinkage of cloth = .0785 Mill cost (per yard) $ .7850 In carding, ordinary care should produce a roving that will give ex- cellent results on the mules, both in quality and quantity of production. The roving should be made about two-thirds draft for both warp and filling, spun to one run. .Much greater production will be possible in the weave room if Missing Page Missing Page 70 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY draft for the mules, and if well carded, will give excellent production as well as a round, strong thread. The twist may be a little more than normal for the size, as softness of fabric is not the aim. The dressing may be done on a dry frame, the yarns being of a size and strength that will insure Practically Perfect Weaving without the use of size. Burling and sewing should be practically negligible items on fabrics of this sort, as they should come from the looms with a minimum of imperfections. The fulling should not require much time, as it is not desired to felt the goods to any great extent, but to bring them out with a rather open, lofty finish. The majority of finishers prefer to full these fabrics in the grease, a saving of considerable time, and a method of procedure that should give very satisfactory results. When fulled to the desired width, wash, dry and give only sufficient shearing to even up the nap, then brush and press. , , K X "* X,X s . X X X X ■ ^ X X . . X X , , i X X X • > c r . ^ X . X > c (^ . X X , • X K , 3 X, X . • X X 1 •* X . ■ X X • > i ' / i vT A «■ ^ / \ I.ayeut: 9 2,160 ends. 38 picks. Re€d; 8 — 1 — 67.50 inches between the listing. AVarp: 2.160 thr., Vi run = 6.65 oz. Filling: 3S picks, 3*4 run = 7.06 oz. 2 Inches for listing. 13.70 oz. Loom shrinkage, lO^c 1-37 T.>oom weight 16.07 oz. DRESSED AND WOVEN. 4 blue. 20 white. 4 orange. 20 white. «8 COST CALCULATION. ilaterial: .-.O^c med. grade woo] @ 40c. lb. ., = $ .2000 40?o med. grade garnet @ 20c. lb. = .0800 lO-^c med. grade wh. waste fg' 12c. lb.= .0120 U )» .2S20 An ounce > .01823 Cost: '° "" P'"^ '°% .... = $.3163 17.3.3 oz. an 1.70O. Manufacturing: 38 picks = % .2830 Mill cost, a yard $ .5993 HEAVY-WEIGHT AUTOMOBILE CLOAKING The consiautiy increasing use of the automobile as an all-the-year- round mode of conveyance has been the cause of no little activity in the carded woolen industry. During the extremely severe weather fur coats are very largely worn, but by many auto enthusiasts the use of a heavy woolen garment is preferred. The most popular fabric for ganients of this char- acter is the heavy, fancy-backed cloaking similar in construction to the type of sample here described and illustrated. Many of our woolen mills have operated their entire equipment in the production of these cloths for some time, and have found them to be very satisfactory profit makers. The wools used' in many of these fabrics have been of extremely low grades, and would be classed as carpet wools by those who have been accustomed to work on WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 71 the finer grades of men's wear woolens. Cloths similar to that Illustrated are usually produced from foreign wools, such as Jorias and Chinas, the latter being particularly adapted for the manufacture of many styles In which the large percentage of kemp to be found in these wools gives an appearance which is well-nigh inipossible to duplicate by the use of any other stock. As stated in the article on double-faced cloakings, it is cus- tomary to so Unite the Back and Face fabrics in weaving that they may be readily separated by the garment maker if he so desires. This is accomplished by the use of an extra binder warp, 29-Ounce Automobile Cloaking. which has no other function than that of uniting the two cloths. Were this omitted and the weaving carried on in exactly the same manner, the re- sult would be two pieces of cloth, each perfect, and entirely separate from one another. It may be asked why it is not customary to weave fabrics in this manner, as it would appear that weaving two pieces of cloth at one time on the same loom would make a considerable, saving over the method now In use. The fallacy of this reasoning becomes readily apparent when we consider that, although the two fabrics are woven at the same instant, the time necessary to produce them on one loom is no less, and in actual practice probably more than would be required to weave them on two looms. The further possibility of a greater number of Imperfections, ow- ing to the fact that the operative could see but one of the cloths, would also militate very strongly against such procedure. The agitation relative to the use of cotton in woolen fabrics has been carrlCTl to suob on extent that many garment manufacturers refuae to byy 72 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY any cloths containing this extremely useful fibre. The aim of these mis- guided enthusiasts is very laudable, the prevention of misrepresentation and Improvement of Textiles, but the results of their propaganda has been in many instances the direct opposite. As before stated, the function of the cotton binder warp is sim- ply to stitch the back and face cloth together, showing neither on lace nor back of the fabric. The use of a cotton thread for this purpose in no "way depreciates the value of the cloth as an article of apparel and serves Its purpose as well, or even better, than a woolen or worsted thread, yet buy- ers would condemn it as containing cotton. For that reason, the greater part of the plaid backs are stitched with a worsted binder. In the manufacture of these fabrics, the wool to be used for the white yarns should be bleached, and also the white in the mixture. For the bleach- ing, select stock that is of good color, free from stains and yellow tips. The method to be used in the bleaching will depend to a great extent on the facilities at hand. In the ordinary woolen mill it Is extremely probable that no special apparatus will be found, and in that case a Clean Dye-Kettle may be used. The bath may be prepared with 4 gallons of sodium bisulphite, 71-77 degrees Twaddell, or 2IV2 pounds sodium bisulphite and 3 gallons of water. 21,4 pints sulphuric acid and 500 gallons of water. The wool must be thoroughly washed before entering the bleaching bath. Work w'ell, so as to secure perfect penetration of the entire mass, and allow it to remain in the liquor overnight if possible. Draw off, extract and dry. This method will give excellent results, leaving the wool in Al condition for subsequent operations. Care must be taken in the preparatory processes or results in the card- ing and spinning rooms will be far from satisfactory. The roving must come from the card room clear and free from twits, thus enabling the spinner to produce a round, even thread. The twist in spinning should be slightly under rather than over normal, as the desired result is a soft, full thread. This does not imply, however, that the twist should be so reduced as to affect adversely the weaving qualities of the yarn. A very decided aid in the weave room, when using coarse yarns for filling, is the use of cop shuttles, which permit of placing a much larger supply of filling in each shuttle than is possible when the ordinary type of spindle shuttle is used and the filling woven direct from the mule bobbins. It will also be found advantageous to build the warp chain reversed, that is. risers for sinkers and vice versa, throwing the back of the cloth on the top while weaving, so that imperfections may be more readily seen and remedied by the weaver. It will be noticed that the fabric is laid much narrower in the loom than is customary with the majority of wool goods, but as explained in a former article, this has for its object the prevention of a very common defect in goods of this character, that is, tlie showing of the back pattern on the face of the fabric. When burled and sewed, full in the grease, using a pure, full-bodied soap with sufficient alkali to freely saponify the grease dnd maintain its vitality through the fulling and scouring processes. With a soap of suflSclent detergent properties, there should be no necessity for an additional supply during the scouring, but should there be any doubt as to the Thorough Cleansing of the Pieces, they should be well rinsed and new- soap be added with warm water. No napping will be required. The pieces should be extracted and dried, with no unnecessary delay, after leaving the washer. The dry finishing consists merely of a light shearing, brushing, a run on the dewing machine and pressing. The final examination should be in charge of thoroughly compe- teat •heip,.and._ any defects_due to carelessness in the various departments,. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 7S called to the attention of the proper authorities, so that they may be pre- vented in the future. Manufacturing Particulars. Dressing: Light face (1 1 I . 11 . II 1 I ■ II 1 Darlv baeiv |1 ■ 1 1] • 11 ■ M- ll ■ Liglit baclc II ..... . Cotton binder — . [ . i| 1 |1 . I - 11 . II 12 3 times. l.OOS 6.72 ounce. 604 3.36 " 604 3,36 " 168 0.32 " 3 times. Slimes. 3 times. 2C ■ 84 = 2,184 13.76 ounce. Woven: Darlt mix face \\ 1 ] . 11 1 I . II 12 1,176 7.S4 ounce. Dark back I . 1 I . . 6 588 3.92 Light baclt . I . II . I 1 11 6 688 3.93 Layout; 2,1.S4 ends. 34 picks. Reed: 7% — 1, 6, 4 = 67.20" betiveen listing. G times. 6 times. 24 2,352 15.68 ounce. COST CALCULATION'. Material; 75% coarse grade wool 32c. Warp : 2.016 thr., IV^ run 168 thr., 2/20 cotton. 25% coarse grade shoddy eg) 14c.. = 13.44 oz. = 00.32 ■• Filling: 34 picks. 1'2 run \!low 2 inches for listing. ^n ounce 10% loom shrinkage. Loom weight Wool: 32.03 plus 15% Cotton: 00..35 plus 157o Cost: 36.83 ounce wool @ 1.72c.. 00.40 ounce cotton @ Ic. .M;inL,f;t'.turing: 34 picks = t .2400 = 1 .0350 16) { .2750 J .0172 = 36.86 oz. = 00.4O " .. =: 1.(334 .. = .0040 Mill crist, a yard. FULL UKAFT .S'^^: F ~ F X ~ . X F R F l^ ra F - n l? ~ [x , p X "x >; xs 't .-<-*«'.(■>. • X X X ■ X . X X ■ // ^A,AL^ K K ■ X >{ >; X X. K ^ >; X X K X ' X X XX /o ^'llp'i ■■ ' X o X X X . . X X • 9 _^a*^, X X X X| X, o X y^ X X X X X X X • o X X X)^ 1 _J^*/>. • X 1 X X . X >< • • X • ? >^j ^\^. X X X X X X o X . X X X X X X X X • X X X- i Xi -..- )^ ;S X ' . X X X • . r _3^<..-»^ >^ X X X X X X X X X X X X X o X X X X ■ f y^ »<--.■ X X • X. X X o X . J 2'a»^ X X >s X, 6 ^ X X X, X X X . X X o X, X X X X • > v^ ^"^: ■■ X, ■ X L^ • i ' X X 1 / t 3 t r ^ Ji / <^ / /<} // <: / ^ J (^ f— 1^ /> // /i / 'if /f V 2 times. 2 times. VS'EAVE. DRAW. ■an: o^r'CBrann ■ 'dH' B ■ EKBaa ■ra^' : .^:.m^a H ■ ■■■■-'■i.'Sr^IBG bcblB ^l jiii^n /. n QDBGBnBGDCCUa ■ lbbbhbbdb b ccncB B BaanB ana aaaaaaana nanDDcacB' uca BDBGBaBBBBBBG y 1 ' 2 timefl. 2 tlraea. u WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY LADIES' DOUBLE-FACE CLOAKING The popularity of the coarse twilled fabrics similar to that here Illus- trated is apparently on the wane for the moment, the vogue at the pres- ent time tending very strongly toward the imitation fur and boucl6 effects. It is not at all probable, however, that such fabrics will entirely take the place of the twilled coating for any extended period. The richness of coloring, the tasteful mixes which so enhance the beauty of any garment, 20-Ounce Lsdies' Cloaking. particularly those intended for women's wear, can only be developed in fabrics which do not primarily rely on looped effects to give them charac- ter and distinction. One of the most pleasing effects in this type of fabric, is developed by means of using two strongly contrasting colors in both warp and filling, for the face, with either a plain or a fancy back. The lack may be of colors which blend with the face or may be a decided con- rast, but due care must be observed not to use shades which will offend Jie eye. The object in making Double-Faced Fabrics IS primarily to obtain a cloth of considerable weight and warmth that shall have the appearance of a lined garment when made up. The relatively lower cost of making up a coat from a fabric of this type and that of producing a coat from two cloths, the shell and the lining, Is apparent to anyone and need not be commented on at this time. An objection to many WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 75 of the double-faced fabrics produced in former times was the fact that back and face were so thoroughly united in the weaving as to render it a mat- ter of difficulty to separate them for the purpose of turning the lapels and pocket trimmings, while it the cloth was used without splitting the effect was very clumsy and unsatisfactory. Another difficulty frequently encountered, particularly in the manufac- ture of fabrics with strongly emphasized color patterns on the back, was that the fancy effect on the back not infrequently was quite Distinctly Visible on the Face. It is extremely probable that some of our readers have had experiences of this sort, and if they are finishers or dyers they will no doubt remember very well what efforts each made to assure the superintendent that the trouble did not originate in his department. It is not at all improbable that both were absolutely right in their assertions of innocence, as in many instances, when traced to its real cause, it would be found that the source of the dif- ficulty lay in the stocks used. In many cases the dyer would be accused of putting along colors that were not fast, or the finisher would be taken to task for giving the pieces improper treatment either in the fulling mills or washer, while, in fact, each was obtaining the best possible results from the materials at hand. The cause of the trouble was not that the face of the fabric was stained by dyestuff from the back, hut that the proper selec- tion of stock was not used for the two cloths. Imperfections of this sort are much more likely to occur when making goods with a fine face and relatively coarser stock for the back. It the goods are laid wide in the loom so as to require considerable fulling to bring them to the required width, the coarse fibres from the back will frequently work into or through the face fabric, giving the appearance of a stain or print. This may be over- come by Changing the Construction somewhat so as to require less fulling, or by using stocks for both face and back which have practically the same felting properties. In the sample analyzed, the stock mixture averages 75 per cent medium wool and 25 per cent shoddy, but frequently the colors which it is desired to use will make a considerable change of percentages necessary. This is more particularly the case if the back is a fancy pattern. In figuring the cost of the line it will be necessary to use exceptionally good judgment, as in case the prices are based on the average cost of the mixtures, it may be found that the major part of the orders taken are for the styles containing the most expensive stock. A feature that will need particular attention is evenness of the yarn in both warp and filling. In the style illustrated this may not be so essential, but frequently, the most freely selling styles in the range are those having a Light Warp and Dark Filling. These are difficult to produce in any grade, even with the best of machinery equipment, and in the ordinary cassimere mill, where discipline has become somewhat lax and machinery is not in the best of condition, it is not at all unlikely that a larger proportion of seconds will be made than should be tolerated. It will be neccessary to watch the weight of the roving very carefully, keep the tops and bottoms separate, not only in the spinning but also in the weave room. If the carder has not been accustomed to working on the class of stock used in these cloths he may find trouble in keeping 76 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY his weights correct, as the top rings are prone to take more than their share of the stock from the cylinder. Then, too, the side ends may become heavy or light, a very frequent cause of uneven yarn. The weave room is often given the credit for producing uneven cloths when the trouble is in the yarn manufacture, though too often the carelessness of the weavers in changing all the shuttles at one time, or in starting up after a pick out, causes a "heavy place" which shows as a dark streak across the piece. Imperfections of this sort are perhaps more Difficult to Overcome on goods which take the picks easily than on fabrics which require some force to beat them home. Burling and sewing are not difficult operations on these cloths, as the looseness of the weave permits of removing knots and slugs with comparatively little effort and the relatively coarse, strong yarn weaves with a slight amount of breakage. Fulling is usually done in the grease, and should be accomplished in as short a ti lie as is CDUsistent with good work, there being much less danger of the back showing through on the face. Full to 58 inches and transfer immediately to the washer. Give half an hour's scouring with lukewarm, not hot, v ater, then rinse thoroughly and dry. The face will require no napping, the back may or may not require such treatment, depending on the type of finish desired. Should a napped finish be required, the raising should be done before the goods are dried, as it may be accomplished while the pieces are wet with greater ease and much less waste of material. Give a light shearing to remove the long hairs, brush and press. ^aje X =?= X , X X p i -^i . • • X • X 7 ^w X . X \ X X X i J^^* , . X X • r >.^ X X X X X • X V J*S^ X. X • ' • -3 ^^ X K >^ • X • K ^ i. ^v^ X • X 1 / i vJ V / i / '/ Warp: Dark face 1 Back 1 Light face Back Filling: Dark face 1 Back 1 Light face Back STRAIGHT DRAW. Layout: 2,048 ends, 36 picks, iieed: 7' ^ 1 68 " between listing. Warp; 1.024 thr., 2^4 run face 4.55 oz. 1,024 thr., 2Vi run back 4.55 " rilllns: , ,» „ 18 picks, IVk run face 6.60 18 picks, 2% run back 5.60 2 Inches for listing. 20.30 oz, 10% shrinkage 2.03 Loom weight 2?.53 oi, COST CALCULATION. 75% med. wool fqt 44c = $.3300 2570 med. shoddy (g) 20c = .0f.00 16) $ .3800 % .0237 Material: 22.33 plus 15%. 25.07 oz. -ill .n237c = % .CO.SS 3i; picks ." = -2750 Mill cost S .8833 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 71 IMITATIOM ASTRACHAN The astrachan is a lustrous, curly black fur obtained from the young lambs indigenous to parts of Russia and Persia. Its extreme beauty and high cost has been tiie cause of many attempts to imitate it in textiles. The inventive genius of the present generation has succeeded so well, that at the present time there are many textile fabrics, knit or woven, that Imitation Astrachan. imitate it so closely that a close scrutiny is necessary to determine which is the fur and which the imitation. Many of the closer imitations are woven by means of wires, which raise the luster yarn in loops something after the manner in which Brussels carpets are woven, while others depend en- tirely on Tlie Fulling Mill for the desired effect. The fabric here illustrated and described is of the latter class. The warp is made from a mixture of wool, shoddy and waste and is comparatively inexpensive. The filling, which gives the characteristic appearance to the cloth, is made of a fine grade of mohair. Mohair, some- times called Angora wool, is the flee(fe of the Angora goat, a native of west- ern Asia, but now domesticated in many countries. The principal source of supply is Turkey, and from that country comes the finest mohair obtain- fS WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY able. For many years past, there have been some large flocks of Angora goats kept in Texas, and these are the source of almost the entire domestic clip. Lack of care, climatic conditions, or possibly lack of attention tu breeding may be responsible for the fact that the domestic mohair is not equal to that obtained from abroad. The peculiarly brilliant luster of the mohair fibre renders it particularly valuable as a material from which fabrics may be constructed in imitation of furs, and modern inventions of appliances for looms and twisters have made it possible to produce fabrics which, in the liands of the skilled finisher, imitate nature very closely. New types of finishing machinery have been developed whereby the peculiar curl to be found in the furs of certain animals are reproduced with an exactness that is truly wonderful. Soxs years ago mohair was used to a certain extent for the production of linings and dress goods, with a little used in men's wear for decorative purposes, the largest users of the fibre being the manufacturers of Plushes and Robes. In the recent p.ist a large quantity has gone into cloakings of various kitids. The warp is prepared in the ordinary way. and dressed dry. The fUling is made from a fairly long staple mohair of good grade. Care should b? taken in the carding to preserve the length of the staple as much as possible. Do not set closer than is absolutely required to produce a smooth, p. ei^ roving, which should be a trifle over half draft. Watch the drawing on the mule, changing the draft and weiglit of roving if necessary until the desired effect is obtained, which is to produce a thread approximating tlie appearance of worsted as nearly as possible. The mohair yarn should be spooled for twisting, an operation that may be performed either on the ordinary type of ring twister, or, if the spinning equipment will permit, may be accomplished on the mule. If the latter method is used the yarn delivery will need to be approximately full draft. The twist required will be but fi\"e or six turns to the inch. The necessity for twisting may be questioned by manufacturers accustomed to using a . Bradford Roving for Filling, but to one conversant with botli types of yarn the advantages of twisting the wool spun thread will be obvious. A single thread made on the woolen system would produce an effect much more in the nature of the so-called "wool plush." while the ply thread will form the loop effect which gives the characteristic finish to astrachans. In weaving, do not use more tension in the shuttle than is needed to pre- vent the filling drawing in, as the desired effect is to have the filling form loops on the face of the fabric when finished, and this is aided to a con- siderable degree if the filling is woven a trifle slack. Burling and sewing are ne.gligible items in the manufacture of astrachans, as the Iteavy loops on the face of the goods eft'ectually cover up any ordinary imperfections tltat may occur during the weaving. The most difficult processes connected with the production of such cloths as tlie one here described are the fulling and dyeing. Unless great care is used in both these processes failure will follow. In making piece-dyed effects the pieces should be scoured and colored be- fore fulling. A\oid crowding eitlier the washer or the dye-kettle, as the drag on the pieces, due to the crowding, may stretch them in length and cause them to loconio narrow without forming the filling loops which are WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 79 characteristic of tlie fabric. It may be necessary to remove tlie pot eyes in the washer and to slow up the reel of the dye-tub to get satisfactory results. After coloring they should be well extracted and dried, then put Through the Soaping Machine and run into the fulling mills. Examine them from time to time to see tliat mill wrinkles are not made, a common defect in fabrics of this character, and also to make sure that they are fulling evenly. Pull to 56 inches, scour, extract and dry. A light shearing to remove the long hair will put them in condition for the press. pf ■ Ix "7 t^ ~7" p" "7" n "T T] F T V f ■ !x X X X X X X X V . X V V X X X X ■ ■ ^*' X X X X X X X \ X X X X V >; X X V ^ X X X X X X X X *; X X X A/ X X X X JJ- X X X X X X X X X X X, < J/ ' X X X . X ^o X r \ ^ X X X X X X X X >< ^1 X X X X X. X X X X X X X X X X x; // X x: . X X yi X X ?< X X X X X X X X X xr X X X ■ X Jk 2C V X X X X X X X X X X Af X , X X X -■» X X X X X X X X X X X ^ // X . X X • X /o y X X X X X . X X X X A X 9 X . X ^ X ^ V X _x . X X ^ X X X X X >; ;- X 1' T >>; X X <^ I X X . X X X X X X X X X X J^ X T . , K X ii fc X X X X X X X . X X X X X J' X >< K X -^ X X X X X X X X ^ _x X i / / z J <.- J- ti / / ^ y^^ ^ ^.J f - ^^7, -i? i-. ^ 6 KO ^il(tli>Ai'^/yAi3^^. f c "1 f'A^ — - k k k If J J ,? ! I, Z / /.- t / ■^^ -V- \l^ suit in twitty yarn, while the cards themselves will be filled with a sticky mass of Combined Grease and Short Fibre, which will make life a burden to the strippers, and cause the overseer to wonder why he ever was so senseless as to learn that particular branch of the business. The great importance of the scouring process seems to be entirely lost siglit of, if we are to believe the evidence of our eyes and sense of touch. The scourer, in some instances, seems to think that removing the ■1*^ F n \K X. T- ".^ ■ «; S 7 ^ < K < ^ ■ '^ < K ■^1 J- X X -V y (• ?< ^ >^ >s ■ I V < X ^i ?. -"^ K ■ y / A J k -^ -; ^ - -" T -i if) , 1 1 J- ,2 A ^, -^ -,i 5 l_ / ■ / -. _L 7 / the wool. The former method is the most approved, as it leaves the wool in a more lofty, open condition. Fabrics of this type are invariably stock-dyed, as few or practically no juveniles are made in solid colors. The dyer should use discretion in boiling the stock for coloring, as severe boiling felts the stock and makes it both tender and brittle, causing a great amount of waste in subsequent operations, particularly in the carding. See that the stocks are thoroughly blended in the picker room and have sufHcient oil to insure thorough lubrication during the carding and spinning. The carding of stock such as is used in the type samples should present no difficulty it the stocks have been carefully handled in the preparatory processes. The roving should be made two-thirds draft, spun right twist, forming a smooth, round thread that will be strong and elastic. No splicing should be allowed in spinning; all broken ends must be tied to insure good weaving. The spoolers should be taught to tie a knot that will not slip on the dresser or in the loom. Pro- duction will be greatly increased if attention is paid to these seemingly un- important details, and much valuable time will be saved in the finishing room. Weaving will be a pleasure with well-made warp and filling, and the looms should easily attain a production equal to 80 per cent of the theoreti- cal possibility. This may seem rather more than should be expected with 86 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY warp and filling of the stock and size described, but mill experience in many cases has proven this to be a very conservative estimate. Burling must be well done, the knots carefully raised, slugs and foreign matter removed so far as possible. There should be practically no sewing required, except pos- sibly a broken pick occasionally, as the warp should be strong enough to weave with a minimum of breakage. Run the pieces into the mills two on each side, start the mills and apply the soap In a Semiliquid State, just warm enough to flow through a two-inch spout which has been attach- ed to an ordinary watering can. Open the top of the mill and apply the soap just as the pieces enter the rolls. This will secure an even distribu- tion of the soap, it no soaping machine is at hand. These goods require no felt and should De brought out as quickly as possible, placed in the washer without unnecessary delay, and thoroughly scoured with warm water. Half an hour's scouring should float the grease and dirt, so that it may be rinsed out without trouble. Should there be any doubt as to the absolute cleans- ing of the goods, give another scour with fresh soap, as dirty goods are one of the most unfortunate things that can occur, and usually inexcusable. Ex- tract and dry, shear fairly close, brush, spray and press. ■ Laj'oul: -',040 f-nds. 30 picks. Reed: 7\i — 1 — 6S inches between listing. Warp : 2, MO thread, S'i run 6,83 oi. Filling: 30 picks, 3M; run 6.00 oz. Allow 2 Inches for listing. W- loom shrlnkag 11.83 02. . 1.18 oz. Equal loom weight 13.01 oz. COST CALCULATION. 507c medium grade wool ra: 44c = ) .2200 40% medium grade shoddy @ 20c = .0800 10% medium grade wool waste @ 12c, = .012fl .\n ounce MiU cost, a yard 16 ) t .312C .» .0195 Material; 13.01 plus ls%. 14,06 02S, ffl 1.96c = » .»17 Manufacturing: 30 pick.s = .2600 $ .6417 HOMESPUN Fabrics of this kind are usually made from a medium grade of wool, to imitate as closely as possible the product of the old spinning wheel and hand loom. The wools from which these are made should be of fairly long staple, thoroughly scoured, and tree from all vegetable matter. In the card room it may be necessary for the carder to change his speed and to vary the setting of the various parts of the card, and in this way he will be able to imitate quite closely the rough thread as spun by hand. The roving should be made so as to allow half draft on the mule, which will give a strong round thread, insuring excellent results in the weave room in the way of produc- tion, with a minimum of work in the sewing department. Many of the most popular of these cloths are made with a white warp and a dark filling, which is an extremely difficult pattern to produce perfectly. Every effort should be made to see that the beams are perfectly true, that the whip roll revolves easily in its sockets, and that the take-up is in perfect working or- der. Many loom fixers are of the opinion that better results can be obtain- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 87 ed by the use of the old-style conditional take-up on work of this kind, but in most cases it will be found that the use of the positive take-up either of the ratchet ring or the worm gear type will Produce Better Results. When the warp is ready to be put in the loom, new friction bands should be placed on the beam heads, which have been well sprinkled with powdered graphite. Attention to these details will do much toward producing perfect cloth. Burling and sewing on fabrics of this kind should be very inexpensive 10-Ounce Homespun. items. With well-made yarns the warp should run practically day in and day out, without any breaking. Prom the sewing room the goods should be taken to the wet finishing. On goods of this type and weight it is absolutely essential that a soaping machine should be used. Without this, it is practically impossible to se- cure an even distribution of the soap, and unless every part of the piece is soaped evenly, uneven fulling will be the result. Pull to 54 inches, which should not take more than 30 minutes, transfer Immediately to washer, scour 88 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY thoroughly, and dry as soon as possible. Brush and shear lightly. &inipi\ removing the long hairs, give a light steaming, and press. Weave very even so that the twill may show perfectly clear. jL-ayouL. :i.l60 ends. 40 picks. Keud H — 4—68 inches between listing. Wa rp : 2,l^ti thr., 5 run = 4.35 oz. Filling: 40 picks, 5 run = 5.52 oz. 10% shrinkage. Loom weight 10.86 oz. COST CALCULATION. Medium wool 40 cent = 2^g. oz. 13 ounce material with 15% shrinkage = $ .2121 Manufacturing: 40 picks at 9 mills — .36 Mill cost, a yard = S .5721 14 TO 15 OUNCE HOMESPUN. 2,176 ends, 40 picks, reed 8 — 4 — 6S inches between listing. Warjp: 2,160 thr.. 3% run 6,20 oz. Filling: 40 picks, 3M: run 7,9 02. 14.10 02. 1.41 " shrinkage, 10% . . ., iqual loom weight.. 7^ X ra — — ^ X — \ // X X >< x X X X, /o • - . X, ,9 X X X K X -\ X t 2; X ? a X X K X X X K i b, X ^ X X X X X X X t X ■J X X X X X ^ . X t. X / / s J 1' r 4, / ^ X X K X /a X, X K >; X X X X f X \ X X, X X X X ■g X K X X X X K X ^ X K K X X, X X X i X . X X X X X X ^ r X X X , X X X X K U- X X X x; X X X X J X X _ >^ X X X X X i K K X X X X X X / / i / f r i- / / i s ^ / / / ^ / 2 TImea = 32. WOOLEN AND WORSTBt) FABRICS GLOSSARY y3 times with two-ply tilling, but more frequently the filling is single. The ma- jority of these fabrics are made from medium grades of wool, usually of quarter-bloods spun to about four run and doubled with about eight turns Mmgm^mm ■^^ ^■^^:^%. 16-Ounce Fall Suiting. to the inch. The warp yarn should be spun about half draft and made as smooth as possible. Weaving of tweeds should give an excellent production, as the warp yarns are strong and should weave with practically no breaks whatever. The single filling is somewhat heavier than the original thread spun for the warp, but seldom is made as heavy as the resulting warp twist. After burling and sewing, the goods should be fulled for a short time, as no felt is necessary. Scour tlioroughly with a full-bodied neutral soap, and rinse well. After drying, place on the steam brush, then shear to what is termed a semifinish. Press hard and give a run on brush before rolling up. Liayout ; 1,400 ends. 24 picks. Reed 10%— 2— 66. 66 inches between listing. Warp; 1.400 thr., 314 run, double twist ,S.OO oz. FllllnR: 24 picks, 2 run S.24 oz. Two Inches for listing. 16.24 oz. 10% for loom shrinkage 1.62 oz. Loom weight 17.S6 oz Warp: Double twist, 8 to 9 turns to the Inch. Fllllne: Plain black, with twlat decoration. .Material: Medium grade wool @ $ .44 = .0275 an ounce COST CALCUL.\TION. 17.86 oz. plus 167o = 20.53 oz. @ $ .0275 = $ .5646 IManufacturing: 24 picks = .2260 For twiytlng = .0500 Mill cost, per yard $ .8405 9M WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY COIIBIXATIOX: 4 HARNESS TWILL AND BASKET HERRINGBONE. X, X'x — R X — Ix > X, X X X, 7 k, /./ X ■ )< X X X X X X X X X 7^ X ■XX -><> < X / X X X ' X X X X >; X '< X 'f X < • X X, X X • X X X X K K X ■ /^ X, X X X >s x; X ■ X X X < X ■ i^idl '-7 • ) >; X X X ^ X • X X X X X X ■ XX /i K X X X X X ' X X X X X <,. <; ■ /f X ^ X X X XX ■ >; X X X ■Xlxl- /^ X X X X ^ X X X X X X X X, x;^ /-; • } ( X . ^ X \ X ■ X X X X X X < ■ >< ^^ X < • )< X X \ ■ ^ X K X X X, < // X X X X X X X ■ X X X X X Xx /o < X X X x: X ■ X X X X X a. XXT f ■ ^ < K X X X X • X X X X X ^x ■ X X X X X X X ■ ^ X X X X X Ji^l ^ ■ > t X X X X A ^ X, X X >i> < ■ X j^ X > < ■ X < X X ■ XX X x; X X xxM- X K X K X X '^X X X X x; X ><■< 7 ■ > X X \ X X, x; ^ X X X X XX l- ■ ,s ^'^ X, ><. X, ■ X, iL x. X X — ^xi.|. / y J u* i ^ / 4 /- A y 2- / J" / /<> 96 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY and yarn manufacture. When burled and sewed, the pieces are put through the soaping machine, even distribution of the soap being absolutely neces- sary if perfect results are to be obtained in fulling. If no soaping machine is at hand, the pieces may be run into the mill and the soap applied in a semifluid condition as the goods enter the rolls. Full to 56 inches, scour thoroughly, rinse and dry. The goods are not fulled in length but finished loom yards. From the dryer take to the shear, and give sufficient runs to clear them out, brush and press. Layout: 2,040 ends, 34 picks. Reed: 1'^ — 1, 68 Inches between listing. Warp : 2,040 thr., 5 run Filling: 34 plclcs, 5 run 4 COST CALCULATION. Material: 9.94 ozs. and 15% shrinkage = 11.43 ozs. 'gi 3.32c .=. $ .3764 4. OS oz. Manufacturing: 34 picks .= .2670 4.76 oz. 9.04 oz. Loom shrinkage 90 oz. Mill cost, a yard. Equal loom weight 9.94 oz. Material: 75% fine wool @ 56c = J .4200 25% medium wool @ 44c = .1100 16 ) % .6300 t .0332 HEAVY-WEIGHT CASSIMERE The comparatively lo\v price of worsteds, combined with the fact that it is possible to secure much snappier, clean-cut styles in a worsted fabric 17i2-Ounce Heavy-Weight Cassirr.ere. than can be produced in woolens, has been responsible, in a marked degree, for the lack of interest in cassimeres. While the cassimere will give ex- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 97 cellent service and is a fabric of much more warmth than a worsted of the same weight, popular taste, educated to a great extent by the clothier, has demanded worsteds for suiting purposes. It is only within the last two gen- erations that the worsted fabric has come to the front. Previous to that time there were comparatively few worsted mills in the country, and many of the old-time manufacturers, when asked to make a line of samples from the new yarn, laughed at the idea, thinking it was only a temporary fad. A few. who were more progressive than their neighbors, started the manu- facture of worsted yarns and fabrics, making comfortable fortunes for them- selves. The relative position of the two branches of the industry is shown by the number of looms devoted to woolens and w^orsteds in 1869 and in 1909, a period of 40 years intervening. In 1869 there were 34,183 woolen NU-MBERED FOR REDUCTION. TOP. K'X.<. . * X » * < X • * : . . < ^ •-<■:•. - ■'. • •IV Vxl. , K K ' ■ K K -^ >•< ■ . << . . «.)c.|»XX*| .x.;.x<- ■ X;^. - ,X.. • K K . -j^X. •A.K. • \ • t K K. * -.X.X* * xIk • k'-k -■y:\---^-;--xX'-x; X,X..X^«'<>^ • KX- -Xx. • KX,. .jtX.. »X,^' ,.*;X» 'Xx.* .XX..X.X. 'XX X.". xx«#xx-.xx-»xx.' ■ y M.K » •^X.'X.X- -XX.-xX.. •XX*»XX*" XX''XX..XX. • .;^X-' X X X' ' ■ K -^ X . ;• XX. . .'XX ■ - . .)^X»-XX» -xx* •xx»|-x- . -XX - 'XX •■• XX • 'X X, . ■ . X»»XX»»^X' •XX'-X.X ' K XX»«KX*»XX ••XX-'XXX ■XX-^XX'. "XX'-XX^- ••XX» -Xx • .XX* .XX- :>( • * XX • • XX. ' X j< ^ - ■ XX XX • • X X • -JV X x| , >XX.'XX'-Xa», X.XX'*' XX- -'xx • *XX* X*x;x.«XX--XX-*X'^ • . .,xx • • X X • » X ^ * * X X.[*XX''XX''XX»» XXX.' *XX- -XX-'Xx* X'X,'\«,xX^ .XX'*XX ■••■,xx«*xx->xx»«" >i •'.''-''<. . . X X • '' X X • .*< X . xxx;-'-xx«^xx»-xx» -KX i;'x,'x'*xx*'xx. •xx*»xx • ■ -X X. . -XX' • X X . • X. X • » •X.|'XX . •XX*"»XX.,Xx* XXJC' •XXi.'*XX*,.XX'»XX x-x;x- •xx«''c'x •• XX' • XX. >x>< * * K X '"i yx. X ■ • K K ;,•_ •C X|- • XX •• XX •' XX- •XX'*' X'<''XX«|«XX- •XX' • XX 'I"'** ■XX-'XX'-XX-'XX. .XX/-XX*'|XX.»X^X' • • «xx.--« .ex. . x,x, .XX* » XX' -xx» • x:X'"X'< • -xx -'x X • .X;X'XX* • XX. .XX. • XX «-XX* -XX* 'XX • • XX* » X'< XX*»'XXX. 'XX. -XX. .XX.' XX- -XX --XX. 'XX-'X-^' •XXt'*X».XX. .XX.. XX' •XX^-XX --xX. •XX.'XX.- • •Xx;**-XA» 'XX. -X^X. .XX. -XX.'XX. 'KX. 'X-*<- 'X X > • X'X"* xlx ■ «X,X' .xjX* .XX, ,XX , * -XX,, 'xX^. . XX. . XX XXX'. • X X X • xlx • • X . - . 'XX • • • X ', < XX, XXX,. , yx ^ - x;x . .XX . . -^X > . X Full Design Draft. and 6,126 worsted looms, while in 1909 the woolen looms were but 33.148 and the worsted looms 39,476. The manufacture of fancy cassimeres requires talent of no mean va- riety, and offers to the trained mind a field second to none. The knowledge of stocks, necessary to the successful operation of a woolen mill, can only be gained by long. years of experience in handling ihem and careful observa- 98 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY processes' Thlrf.?''' '''"^ "^"''' '''="°'' '^"'""^S ''^^ 1°*"^^'^ manufacturing processes. There are many who are positive that the success of the mill Entirely with the Designer, Dort«n'fhr«^..'^''.'f?f''K'^^^- ^°i^^^^ ^'^ ^™uld belittle that extremely im- portant branch of the busmess, but it must be admitted that the foundation Layout : l,s:s ends, 30 picks. Reed £"—3—67, 75 Inches tetween listing. Warp ; 1.S2S thr. , Filling: 30 picks, '■'iD 8.12 oz. Material: sO<~c coarse grade wool @ ? .0036.... = ; .180« 20^1. medium grade wool ® J .0040.. = .OSSO 20% medium grade shoddy @ J .0020 = .0400 10% med. grade wool waste © $ .0012 = 0]2/ >< X x; X X • X ■ X • X ■ X < X X c^ X • X X K X X • X ■ X • X . :)i X X t'j- X >; X X X X ■ X ■ X ■ X . X X X Vfe ■ X, K X X X, . X • X ■ X ■ X < X X ^ X X . X . X XX- XX- X x,x . X % >( • X >; X \ X ■ A ■ X ■ X - X X X fc/ \ >^ X X X X • X, ■ X ■ X • X < ■ X 4-7 • x; ^ ■ X X X ■ X • X • X • X X . X X Jf X >^ . X X X. • X • X' X • X X • X X >r/ \ ■ ^ X ■ X X X • X ■ X X ■ X < • X . J'/ X X X X ■ X X ■ X ■ X ■ X • X . \ < - X . ji • X X. X X X ■ X . X - X ■ X X • X X Jr X X, X X X ■ X ■ X • X ■ X X ■ X X Jk \ ■ X X X X X ■XX X . X. < ■ X JJ K X /C X X X . XX ■ X ■ - X < • X Ji • X X X X X ■ X ■ • X - XX X - X X J/ X, X \ X X ■ X • ■ X - XX . X - X X Ja X ■ X ^ X X X. ■ X X ■ X ■ ' X X ■ X i1 x; x X X X K • X X ■ X ■ - X X ■ X «f/ • \ >{ X, ^ X ■ X • ■ X ■ X X X • X X ^? ^ X \ X X ■ X ■ ■ X ■ XX X ■ X X Si K ' >^ K X X X ■ X X - X • . X X . X ir X >^ /- X . X X X • X - • X ■ X < • X sit ■ X X X X X ■ -^-i XX ■ Xj X • X . X t) x; >S X X .X ■ ^i J XX ' X X X X it X ■ x X X X X A ■ 1 r ■ X ■ X <, ■ X s/ X X X X X • X X • X ■ ■ X ■ X < ■ X • iO ■ X x; ' X X X ■ ■ X ■ XX -x X ■ X X '9 X K K X . X ■ ■ X • XX ■ X X X X Jt \ • X X X X ' J n - X . '; ^K X X X X ^x. ■ X - X ■ X ■ > X /i ■ ^ x X X . X • X. ■ X • X • X X X X n x; X X X X ■ X ' X ■ X - X X X X /I S ■ X :x X X X • X ■ X • X - X - > X yj X, )< X X X X. ■ ii ■ x • X • X - !■ X /t ■ X, X X X A • X ■ X • X ■ X X X X // >; x; X, K X ■ 2< ■ X - X ■ X X - A X /o X ■ x; X X X X ■ X ■ X - X ■ X ■ > \ ■ X f «. \ X X X X • xite ' X ■ X X X t ■ X, X X X X ■ X . X. ' X - X . > (. . X X i X X X X X ■ X . X. ■ X - X • > (. • X X 6 <; ■ X K X X X • X • X - X ■ X X X r < X X X X X ■ V ■ X ■ X ■ X X X !< ■ xi x; X X V ■ X ■ IX' X . > X X ■s X X X X X ■ X ■ X ' X . X • ?■ X X V < ■ ^ X X X A ■XX. ■ X - X X X / / ' /. Jf (i /• ^ / .c _/ y^ ''-' -'/' ^ 4^t '« /y /f Chain Draft. 24 Harness, 48 Bars. place in the finished fabric. When taken from the looms the pieces should be perchea, every imperfection marked, and the cloth measured and -n-eighed. A record of the piece number, loom WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 101 number, weaver's name, length and weight of the piece, should be made in a suitable book, and also any details as to Imperfections noted. Burling must be thoroughly done, as a knot allowed to remain in the goods is very li- able to cause a hole during shearing. Every broken end or pick must be replaced by the sewers, coarse ends removed and a perfect thread substi- tuted, floats and holes repaired, slugs reduced, in fact, the cloth put in as nearly perfect condition as is possible. Pulling should be done in the grease, the soap used being a pure neu tral base, built up with a mild alkali and absolutely without free caustic alkali, as this has an extremely harmful effect on the wool fibre, rendering the goods harsh and wiry. From the fulling mills transfer at once to the washer and scour for 30 to 40 minutes in w-arm water. Open the gates and rinse well. Should there be the least doubt as to the goods being Thoroughly Clean, give another 20 minutes' scouring with fresh soap and warm water, tak- ing care that every trace of soap is rinsed out before the pieces are taken from the washer. Extract and dry before napping. As it is not desired to finish the goods with a nap, but to have them as clear as possible, the ob- ject to be obtained on the napper is not to form a nap but simply to raise the fibres so that they may be readily removed by the shear blade. This is much more readily accomplished by running the cloth on the napper dry, as the fibres stand out from the body of the fabric. :\luch better results will be obtained by shearing slowly, that is by giving several runs instead of lowering the blade and attempting to remove all the nap at the first opera- tion. Clear out the twill so that every individual thread shows distinctly, brush, spray and press. The result will be a fabric of which any finisher might well be proud. VENETIANS The Venetian is a fine woolen cloth used extensively for spring top- coats, ladies' jackets and in the lighter weights for skirtings. They are fre- quently made in piece-dyes, but for coating purposes are usually produced in mixtures, and in many instances the mixture Venetians are sold under the name of coverts. There is no excuse whatever for confusing the two fabrics, as they are of entirely di't'erent construction, tlie only pL-int of similarity being the fine diagonal twill. Venetians are made from single yarns, both in warp and filling, while the true covert is made v.ith a two-plv warp of contrasting colored twists and a single filling. The sample here illustrat- ed was made from a stock mixture of two grades of wool well combined with a fine shoddy. To many manufacturers the stock mixture used will appear incapable of being spun to weavable yarns of the size here given, but with the proper equipment in the carding department and a capable overseer, no serious difficulty will be encountered. Good Cards and a Skilled Carder Necessary. It must be distinctly understood, how-e\"er. that both elements of this proposition must be present in order to secure the desired results. For the manufacture of piece-dyed Venetians the Texas wools are very nicely adapted, giving a fabric that is well felted and with an exceptionally soft, full handle in the semifinished cloths. The wools to be used will ditTer with the type of finish required, which varies extremely at different sea- sons. At times the trade will have nothing but cloths that are well cleared out, with the twill prominent and every thread distinct, very much re- 102 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY sembling that closely related fabric, the whipcord, while another season de- mands a fabric with considerable nap and the twill scarcely discernable. It is a matter of extreme difficulty to describe the different varieties of wool so as to enable those not thoroughly familiar with the various grades and types to differentiate between them. It is only by being brought into 12-Ounce Venetian. actual contact with the stocks over a considerable period of time that one is able to determine with any degree of accuracy the particular type of wool Best Adapted for the Fabric to be manufactured. This feature of manufacturing has not received the at- tention that its importance demands. Many of those engaged in the textile industry both in the manufacturing end and the merchandising of the prod- uct, lay undue stress upon designing, as though style was the all -important feature. Granting that, other things being equal, style has more to do in creating a market for the product than anything else, it must also be ad- mitted that a line poorly constructed, no matter how intelligent the styling may be, will never meet with success. It is especially essential in these days of severe competition that the manager of a textile mill should be an expert manipulator of stocks, as it is in this part of the manufacturing that profits may be made or lost very rap- idly. For the production of the mixture Venetians, which imitate the true coverts in shade, it is advisable to use a pulled wool for the white In the mix. There are several excellent reasons for so doing, one of the best be- ing the fact that a pulled wool can be obtained that will be more open, freer, and less apt to cause specks, which is a very common defect in mixtures. Another defect frequently found in mixtures, particularly those containing a very small percentage of one color, is a blotchy or streaky appearance, due to improper mixing. The writer has seen many prices which were rejected by the sponger for this reason alone. The cloth was perfect in every other respect, but it would be impossible to make it into salable garments because cf the unevenness of the mixture. That a defect of this sort should appear in woolens is not, perhaps, to be surprised at, as the process of carding in use to-day makes so few doublings possible, but the same imperfection is not infrequently seen in worsted goods where the doublings in manufacturing the yarns are so numerous. To obviate WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 103 danger of imperfections of this sort, the man in charge of the pidiing should be instructed to use great care in laying down the batch, and to give at least Three Runs Through the Mixing picker. The oiling should have careful attention that every part of the batch may receive its due share of lubricant. It may be that these details are enlarged upon unduly, but so many cases have been brought to our attention in which the sole cause of the difficulty was lack of attention to one of these so-called "minor details," that it is evidently necessary to emphasize them, that they may be borne in mind. The question as to the best oil to use as a lubricant during the carding and spinning is one that must be decided by the individual manufacturer. There are those who will under no circumstances use anything but a red or a lard oil, while in other mills mineral oils are used exclusively, and with very satisfactory results. As a general proposition, it is safe to say that the best oil is the cheapest. The emulsion may be formed with varied proportions of oil and water, as the judgment ot the manager may indicate. For the stock used in the sample here described the proportions may be one-tliird oil and two- thirds water, cut with borax or some other mild alkali. This should be applied "warm at the rate of twelve quarts per hundred pounds of stock, and the batch beaten with a pole to secure penetration. The cards should be in Al condition, set fairly close, so as to eliminate all danger of specks, the roving well rubbed, and made for spinning at half draft. Spinners should be instructed to make no splicings on the yarn intended for warp, but to tie all broken ends. Spooling, in it- self an extremely simple operation, may be the cause of much trouble and many imperfections in subsequent processes, if carelessly performed. The operatives must tie the knots so that there is no danger of slipping during dressing or "weaving, breaking the ends off short, so that they will not become entangled with the threads and cause them to break during weaving. Fabrics of this character are usually "n-oven on the five or seven harness doe- skin weave, either of which will form "floats" easily, that is, a slight lump ot flyings, or the long ends of a knot are very liable to prevent the warp threads from Interlacing with the Filling properly. The -weaver must use great care to guard against imperfections of this nature, or the cost of sewing "will be increased to a marked degree. Burlers must remove every knot, leaving the ends to be clipped off by the shear. After sewing, the pieces may be taken to the wet finishing and prepared for the mills. The use of a soaping machine is strongly advised, particularly on goods of this character "which full very easily. Even application of the soap is absolutely essential in order to secure evenly fulled pieces. The soap should be made up from a pure neutral palm oil base, built up with a pure alkali, absolutely "without any trace of free caustic. After running a few minutes the goods should be examined to see that the grease and dirt are being properly raised. This may be readily ascertained by holding the cloth over the fingers and scraping the thumb nail against the cloth. If the soap is of the correct consistency with sufficient detergent qualities the dirt and grease will flow out over the thumb nail readily. Full to fifty seven Inches, then wash thoroughly and dry. If the finish desired requires considerable nap, the pieces may be placed on the wire napper or gigs before drying, but for a clear finish they should be dried, then given a light napping Missing Page Missing Page 106 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY innumerable scales, or imbrications, which may be easily injured by harsh treatment. The spinning and felting properties are largely dependent upon these imbrications, as during the various processes of manufacture they interlock with each other, particularly in the fulling, and aid materially in making the cloth a firm, compact fabric. The chief sources of injury to the stock during the scouring are the use of too severe alkalis as detergents and excessive heat iin the scouring bath. Either will so affect the stock that it may be impossible to spin it to the desired size, and also will very \| ^ ^^K- o K X \ X ■A X r Warp: 1 thr., light mix face. 1 thr.. fancy back. 1 thr., cotton binder, 1 thr.. light mix face) 3 „„,„_ 1 thr.. fancy back J Flllins:: 9 thr. 1 pick, dark mix face. 1 pick, fancy back. much depreciate the handle of the finished goods. Excessive heat in drying the stock should also be avoided. In the Dyehouse. Wools for manufacturing the fabrics here described must be stock- dyed, that is to say, colored in the raw state, as it is neither practical nor profitable to color wool yarn in the skein. The method of dyeing to be used is a matter for the dyer to decide. The use of acid colors is common prac- tice on dress fabrics, but does not give colors that will compare with alizarines tor fastness, either to light or fulling. If alizarine colors are to be used they may be either bottom chromed or colored by the top chrome method. The latter method is preferred by many dyers, as they think the colors developed in this way are brighter and livelier than those colored by bottom chroming. Care must be taken not to allow the kettle to boil too hard, as it has a decided tendency to "rope" the stock and render it difficult to card and spin besides injuring its felting properties. After coloring, rinse well and dry. The wool and shoddy must be thoroughly mixed in the picker house, and should have an application of four quarts of oil to the hundred weight of stock. It is customary to apply the oil in the Form of an Emulsion, which may he mixed in the proportion of one pail of oil and two pails of water, emulsified with borax, sal soda, or some other mild alkali. The application of twelve quarts of emulsion will give the required amount of oil, and add sufficient moisture to insure the stock working nicely on the cards. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 107 The carding of stock for fine yarns requires considerable sltill, and also necessitates the keeping of the card clothing in good condition. Tlie workers on the first breaker should be set with at least a 28 gauge, and many Double-Colored Herringbone Face and Lone-Colored Back. carders insist that a 30 gauge would improve matters. Tlie finisher should be set with a 32 gauge, the rings nicely adjusted to the cylinder, and the corduroy wipe roll newly covered, if It shows signs of much wear. With the stock mixture used in the sample, it may be necessary to give the spinner slightly more than half draft, always keeping in mind the fact that Layout: 5.600 ends, 52 picks. Reed: 12—5, 4—66.66 inches between listing. Don't count binder in reeding. COST CALCULATION. MaleriaL 7r,% fine wool (a) 56c, a lb 2:,% fine shoddy ffl 24c. a lb % .4200 .0600 Warp: 3,200 thr., 6 run 6.33 oz. 400 thr., 3/40 cotton, lOy, run 0.38 " Filling: 52 piclcs, 6 run 5.95 " Weight out the loom 12.82 oz. 12.^2 ounce stock plus 15% 14.74 ounce @ 3c. Manufacturing: r,2 picks $ .4422 .3410 .7832 in order to make a round, strong thread, it must be drawn on the mule sufficiently to straighten out the fibres to the greatest possible extent. The top and bottom spools on the cards sliould be kept separate and spun on separate mules, unless the machines are equipped with double roving gears, as are the latest types of nearly all makes. Even with the best of equip ■ 108 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY ment it is a matter ot some little difficulty to get yarn from both doffers exactly alike, auJ it is advisable to keep the yarns separate in the weave room if they are to be used for filling. Every spinner should be warnet' Full Draft. \' H ^ A' N' V' N' ^ ?l K' ^ ^' is^ ^' K' ^' V' i^' K^ ^' Ik' N H' 'f K' ?^' , _-JS,a^ XOX'X; • • • X X . / 1 1 1 ;o tie all broken ends, nor alone for the reason that splicings made in front of the rolls are apt to pull apart in the loom, but to avoid the lumps in the yarn that usually accompany unskillful splicing. The question of sizing the warps on the dressing frame is one that admits of good argum.enis on botli sides, but it is very probable that the time lost in the dressing room, owing to the slow speed at which the dressers may be operated when running sized work, will be more than cotiipensated for by the increased production in the weave room. Some dresser tenders ob- ject to using a warp compressor, but the experience of many years has amply proven that warps beamed with its aid will run much better in the Drawing-in Draft, ~~~ — — -^ T ~ — 1 ■^ n — [ I — 1 1 — rn 1 — 1 n r— ITT p / n £_ ■ 7 h 7 ■ 4 i i r /" r Ic ^ 9i L? J \/ ^ •» ^ / _ _ _ J L [_ /_ / L J _ _ L . .^ -(J %-^ •'-'-^^^ , > ^^v^ .■ , , > U £. / ? - ^ ■? ^. — ~ ~' — _^ _ , _ Z ^1 / — ~" — n CHAIN DR-AFT, DR.\WING-IN DRAFT. Woven 4 run black. Layout: 2,400 ends, 40 picks. Reed No. 9 — 4 — 6ij.77" between listing. Warp: 2,400 thr.. SM run -= G.S6 oz. Filling: 40 picks, 4 run = 6.86 oz. Allow 1,2" for listing. 13.72 oz. 10% loom shrink.age = 1.37 oz. Loom weight 15.09 oz. COST CALCULATION. Material: jMed. grade wool @ 40c. = 2i,4c. an oz. 15. Oy oz, plus 15% shrinkage 17,35 oz. @ 214c = % .4337 Manufacturing: 40 picks = .2910 Mill cost 7247 finishing the fabric in such a manner that it will very closely approximate a worsted in its appearance, and in actual service will gi\e much better satis- faction to the wearer than a worsted fabric at the same, or even a slightly higher price. One of the very serious objections to a worsted made from WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 111 the lower grades is the fact that nothing \yill prevent its becoming shiny in spots with comparatively little wear. This is not so apt to be the case with a woolen, and Another Advantage in the woolen suit is that it will retain Its shape much longer than a cheap w'orsted. With the wool ot the entire world at their disposal on equal terms with their competitors here and abroad, manufacturers of carded woolens should be in position to prove their contention that their lack of business was due to inability to secure raw materials on as favorable terms as their brethren in the worsted trade. The type samples were made from well- grown fleece wools of medium grade, carefully sorted, and scoured with in- telligence. The latter item is one of the most important in the whole scheme of manufacturing. The majority of scourers are imbued with the idea that wool scouring has as its only aim and object the thorough cleans- ing of the fibre from the foreign matter it contains in its natural state. p ^ -n X ■71 ■^ -n X] —I -q ■^1 X -rt "xl x] xTT ^ X >^ x: X X X X X ^ X. X X X X X, X X ^ X >< X X X X X X X >i 1 x X X X X X X X X X ik X X X ^ X it X >< . X X K X, ■ ,^ X \ X X. X \ K X FULL DR.\FT. fn = =j = = =i — — 1 -] ^ — — — _ -' ■V _ " /^ , _ ^ ~ ~ ~ 9 ^ * / _ ~ ~ > 2 ~ ~' ~ ~~' ■(f i .. "" ^ y £. ■^ ~" ~^ i t _ "~ " r ~" /. ■" ~~ i _ \Z _ _ _ — — L _/ — S "S - DRAWING DRAFT. = ^ =Ti 71 x] ^ x| ■ ■ "• i X X X X ■ X ■ } X x; X ^ X X ■ V H /, ?< X X . X >^ K / X, X X X X X ■ ^ ^ fc X X X X XX ,/ a y<, i . X - . K' X ^ b ^ X. X K X ■ ?< / ~? ^ / '' \. •ifl Z'^ »^ ^' S '} i f^ 'A '■% - >'■ *,. ■;, :.,-. • .■ 1* 4,. ■# 1 « ^- ■'4 ,1 ''■■■ A- %-l^ 4' ■:■■,* ■<■■ 131'2-Ounce Woolen Suiting. CHAIN DRAFT. While this is the primary object to be obtained by the scouring process, the fact should not be lost sight of that in addition to cleansing the wool it is extremely important that the Life, Elasticity and Luster of the fibre is not impaired, and that the physical structure of the flbre it- self is not injured in any way during the cleansing process. That irrep- arable injury may be done the wool by carelessness or inattention on the 112 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY part of the scourer is a fact so well known as to require no lengthy proof at this time. The use of harsh detergents, too great heat in the scouring bath or during the drying, will have a deleterious effect on the stock and render it totally unfit for the use for which it was intended, changing entirely the appearance and handle of the finished fabric. Great injury may be done the fibre in the dyeing also, too severe boil- ing making the stock harsh in handle, brittle and tender, so that subsequent operations are attended with considerable difficulty and an excess of waste. Wool fibre is extremely responsive to kind treatment, and resents harsh handling to a remarkable degree. In the hands of skilled operatives it is susceptible of being made into the most delicate fabrics, with A Finish that Rivals Silk for softness and sheen. On the other hand, if handled without regard to its delicate structure, it will produce a fabric that is harsh to the touch, un- sightly and unattractive in every way. See that the stock Is well opened and mixed in the picker room, and sufficient oil of good quality applied to give it thorough lubrication in the carding and spinning, as otherwise it will be impossible to secure the desired results. The wool is of such qual- ity that carding will be comparatively easy. The stock is lofty, standing up on the workers nicely and making very little waste. It will not be neces- sary to set closely, as the stock is open and very free. In condensing, the rub aprons should not be set too close, the stock forming an excellent rov- ing without excessive rubbing. Make the roving halt draft, setting the draw- ing-out scroll so that the carriage starts out at fairly good speed. If the carriage speed is low in starting from the rolls, the roving gets too much twist, with consequent difficulty in drawing. A very important item in the spinning of these yarns is the proper drafting on the mules. Good even yarn cannot be made without a fair amount of draft, though many spinners seem to lose sight of this fact. Twist the warp twenty turns to the right, the fill- ing 16 turns right twist, making a strong, round, smooth thread. Dressing warps from yarn of this kind that has been well spooled is a pleasure, there being no occasion to stop except to change the reel when sections are full or to tie in new spools. Beam hard with warp compressor on the beam. Production from the weave room should show a Very High Average, as the weavers will have little to do aside from changing shuttles, the warps running with practically no breaking of threads from start to finish. When taken from the looms, the pieces should immediately be perched, measured and weighed, the details, including piece number, loom number, date and weaver's name, being entered on a suitable blank. Burl carefully, raising the knots on bolh sides and breaking them off with long ends, remove all slugs, filling drawn in or other imperfections of like nature. Sew in broken ends or picks, repair floats, holes or like damages, when the goods are ready for wet finishing. As it is proposed to give the goods a clear finish, the fulling should be done with a view to shrinking, not felting, and an hour's run in the mill should be ample to accomplish this. Scour thoroughly in warm water, rinse and extract. The handle and appearance of the goods would be much improved by a treatment on the wet. brush, not for the brushing, but to facilitate steam blowing and a subsequent forcing of cold water through the roll. This should be done twice, changing ends on the roll between operations. Extract in the open if possible, and dry at a mod- erate heat. Give a little light work on old teasels to facilitate shearing, which must be is close as possible. Brush, spray and give a hard pressing. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 113 DRESSED. Black, 31411 3 ^ * ■ ■ ■ II = 16 Red. 3V4II . 1 . . ■ ■ ■ II = 1 White, 3V4H ■ . 2 ■ 2 ■ 2 ■ 2 II = 16 Lavender, 3%ll . . ■ 1 ■ 1 • II = 4 = 36 thr , one pattern, 396 ends to one section. 6 sections = 2.376 ends. Woven plain black, 4 run. Layout: 2.376 ends, 42 picks. Reed: 9 — 4 — 66" between listing, Warp: 2,376 thr., 3i^ run -= 6.78 02. Filling: 42 picks, 4 run = 7.12 oz. 13.90 02. 10% loom siirinkage 1.39 oz. Loom weight 15.29 oz. COST CALCULATION. Material: Med. grade wool @ 40c. = 2'^c. an oz. 15.29 and 15 % shrinkage. 17.68 at 2i^c = ? .439:-. Manufacturing: 4L' picks = .3000 Mill cost $ .7395 CAP GOODS The manufacture of cloths especially for the cap trade is a compara lively recent innovation, but in the recent past has developed into a very important branch of the woolen industry. The fabric here illustrated is typi- cal of many of the cloths now popular with cap maimers. The yarns are made from medium wool and shoddy, spun to comparatively heavy counts with medium twist, so as to give a soft fabric with a bulky, woolly appear mm 91/2-Ounce Cap Cloth. ance and but little weight. The goods are of low texture and full readil-' r felt being required. Scour, dry and give a liglit shearing to take ofl th- long hairs, brush and give a light pressing. 114 WOOLEN AXt) WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY The medium-weight cap cloths similar to tliat liere illustrated are fre- quently made with a stock mixture slightly different from that used in the type sample. Many of the rough, shaggy caps now so popular lor sporting — =r _>^ X A J X X X X X ? . x: ^ X X X i K X X X X y . X X X X . K V X X X X ' X • -J X X . X y, X t ^ X >^ X 1^ / / ^ ■s (' J- ^ / 7 7 /^ Full Draft. Sliaight draw, twill to the right. Dressed and woven. I lierht I dark. Layout: l.OSS ends, IS picks. Reed: S — '2 — 6S indies between listing. Warp: LOSS ends, 214 run 4.30 oz. Filling: IS picks, 2^2 run 5.00 oz. 2 in. allowed tor listing. 9. SO oz 10% for loom shrinkage 93 " Loom weight 10.23 oz. COST CALCUL.\TION. Material: 70% medium grade of wool ® 40c. = $ .28j0 2.^% medium grade of shoddy (g) 20c. = .O-'iOO 5% -white nub & 50c. = .0250 16 ) S .3550 10.23 + 15%. Per oz,. J .0222 Material: 15.35 oz. m » .0222 = $ .34'17 Manufacturing: IS picks = .2030 Mill . ost, per yard ,6437 wear are made from a mixture of Joria wool, garnetted quarter-blood thread waste, and for the white in the mixture, a bleached China wool, A mixture of this kind made from tastefully selected colors produces a fabric Medium-Weight Cap Goods, '4!. Ounce. that has the nobby look that many people think is only to be found in for- eign fabrics. A glance over the line ot some of our first-class domestic makers will soon disabuse one's mind ot any such idea. Have the stock well WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 115 z. % .0219 16.39 oz stnck an(l 15% shrlnKajie IS. 04 oz. ; z K X X X / / ^■ ^ v r .SO oz. Filling: 1-i picks. \ run MM uz 2 inches allowed for listing. 19.^0 oz. lOi^f. loom shrinkage 1.98 nz. Equal lonm weight 21.78 oz. Heavy-Weight Cap Goods, 20 Ounce. COST CALCULATION. Matei ial : TiO'^r medium grade wool fff ^Oc = I .20 ."lO^^ medium grade shoddy '5' 20c... = .ICKO 16 )$ .3000 ■Jl.T^ plus \i,^r. Per 02. S .0188 '■\:y, ounce. 2". 04 oume 'i, $.mSS -- ? --ITOT 14 pir'ks = -ISSQ :\Iill cost, per yard % .t>F.S7 MEN'S ^EAR PENCIL STRIPES The illustration herewith shows two typical styles ot pencil stripes for men's wear, which are extremely good representatives of this class of men's wear cloths in cross dyes. By a careful selection of the drugs used it is possible to color the worsted of the ground any desired shade without in any way changing the color of the silk threads used for the striping. There are several advantages in this method of manufacturing styles of this character, not the least of which is the fact that in so doing there is eliminated the necessity of dyeing the yarn in the skein, with the sub- sequent waste in winding and spooling. Not only is the colored waste of less value as a by-product, but yarns in the grey are stronger, making better weaving, and the operative has less strain on the eyes and is en- abled the more easily to detect and remedy imperfections of various kinds as they may occur during the processes of manufacture. In order to pro- duce a fabric that shall be satisfactory in appearance and handle. It Is necessary that the superintendent or purchasing agent have a Good Knowledge of Yarns, so that he may select those best adapted for the fabric to be manutactured. The finish required and the handle desired in different seasons vary very WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY U7 materially, and the type of yarn used from time to time will be very prominent factors in securing the result that is the aim of every official of the concern, that is, a cloth that is good value can be produced in quan- tity, and will show a fair profit. The unwise selection of yarns is in many cases the cause of dissatlLlaction thr oughout the mill, the winding is slow and difficult, the waste excessive, an d production far below what it should be, the usual result being that th e weavers are unable to earn wages commensurate with the labor involved, and an exceedingly high cost in the Two Typical Styles in Pencil Stripes for IVIen's Wear. finishing department, owing to the extra sewing required. It is simply an example of saving pennies and wasting dollars. An additional cent or two per pound in the price of the yarns would save several times that amount in the manufacturing cost per yard on the goods. In the examples shown here the worsted for the warp is 2-40s half- blood. Spun on the Bradford System, from tops made from a choice territory wool. The filling is the same size, but is dry spun, that is to say, is made on the French system. For many years manufacturers were strongly opposed to the use of French spun yarns in cloth for men's wear, but of late this prejudice has been over- come to a considerable extent, and to-day many mills are using dry spun yarns in all their men's wepr fabrics. There are several advantages to be derived from the use of such yarns, one of the greatest being a slightly better handle in the goods made from French spun yarns of the same grade, or even from the identical top. To secure the best results in the finished goods it is necessary to begin at the grease wool, using care and judgment in every process of yarn manufacture as well as in handling the yarn during its conversion into cloth. The fleeces are opened by the sorter, given a shake to remove loose dirt and impurities, and then spread on the sorting bench where the different grades are separated and thrown into baskets. It is essential that this part of the work be done by skilled workmen, as each fleece may be separated into several grades, the various parts of the sheep having an entirely different character of wool. The finest part of the fle ece grows on the shoulders and sides of the animal. Next in grade is that from 118 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY the lower part of the back; third, that from the loins and back; fourth, that fron) the upper part of the legs and neck. Still lower In qual- ity is the wool from the lower neck and middle of the back, with the breast, belly and skirtings the lowest sort in the fleece. In the hands of a skill- ful sorter, the fleece is capable of being more finely subdivided than out- lined here, ten or eleven grades frequently being made from a single fleece. In scouring fine wools the use of a pure potash soap is strongly advised. The use of soda soaps or soda compounds of any kind should be prohibited in the cleansing of fine Vi ools particularly, as the action of soda is injurious to the fibre, making it harsh to the touch, as well as detract- ing from its spinning qualities. The use of a pure potash soap, free from uncombined caustic alkali, will be productive of the nest results. Tests should be made of all new lots of soap and alkali to see that they are free from impurities that may be injurious to the stock or that add to the cost without any increase of detergent properties. The scouring liquor should not be hot, a temperature of 120 to 125 degrees Fahrenheit is all that is needed to thoroughly cleanse the fibre, and irremediable damage may be done by excessive heat. Another Essential Feature in Wool Scouring is a supply of soft water. If this is not obtainable, it will be necessary to correct the hardness of the available supply by mechanical or chemical assistance. The wool need not be rinsed nor should it be thoroughly dry if the carding process is to immediately follow the scouring. The action of the cards on the moist fibre is much more gentle than on stock that is bone dry. The fibres in a tnoist condition are more pliable, less liable to break, and are combed out much more readily with a considerable lessen- ing of noil in the combing. A very common source of imperfect yarn is a worn covering on the top roll of the roving or reducing frames. Slugs are formed here which entail a vast amount of labor in the finishing room. All the top rolls should be inspected at least twice daily, all defective rolls removed and replaced by those In perfect condition. A very little time and expense here will save hours of expensive labor In later opera- tions. The Inspection of the Yarns in the spinning mill should not be hurried. A method which has many points in its favor is that used by one of our best mills. All j'arns, even those to be delivered in the form of skeins, are first run onto jack spools at a slow rate of speed, enabling the operative to detect imperfections very readily as the yarns pass over the inspection board. By using a low rate of speed and a comparatively low number of ends, the inspection is practically perfect and the relatively higher cost of this close inspection is amply justified by the superior working of the yarn in subsequent op- erations as well as the greatly reduced expense of mending. The custom in nearly all mills making fabrics of this type is to dress on a dry frame and weave without sizing. The better way is to run through a slasher after dressing, as a sized warp will run better in the loom than one not so treated. It should not be necessary to dress the Silk on a Separate Beam if due care is used in the dressing department. The silk threads should be allowed to run with very little fraction, as they are very much less elastic than the worsted and will cause considerable trouble in the weav- ing by excessive breakage if dressed too tight. In burling every knot must be raised on both sides of the cloth, all foreign matter, such as bits of dirt or chaff, removed in such a manner as to disturb the texture as little as possible. The sewers will replace all broken ends and picks, coarse threads or hard twist and remove the slugs. Scouring is an important part of the finishing of any type of fabric and is especially Important in the WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 119 Case of goods which are subsequently to be dyed. In the majority of cases of shady goods, the cause will be found, not in the dyehoase as is quite generally supposed to be the case, but in the finishing room, and in most cases the washing is the process at fault. It is impossible tor the dyer to get level shades on goods containing dirt or soap. Worsted goods should not require severe treatment in the scouring, as they are com- paratively free from the dirt and grease usually found in Carded Woolens. A pure, neutral, palm oil soap should be used, built up with a pure alkali to a strength sufficient to saponify the oils contained in the goods. The goods should be run in the soap bath from 20 to 30 minutes, then washed off in warm water for 15 minutes followed by a rinsing for half an hour in clear cold water. After extracting, the goods should be rollad on a machine which will remove all wrinkles and stretch them slightly in width, allowing them to remain on the rolls over night. A process, more to be recommended than this, however, is the continuous crabbing, for which several makes of machines are on the market. Next morning the pieces may be unrolled and are ready for the dyehouse. The goods are usually colored in a kettle holding from six to ten pieces, but must not be overcrowded. Do not bring to a boil too rapidly, but allow ample time to secure complete penetration. After dyeing, rinse well in cold water, extract and dry. The hastening of the drying operation by means of excessive heat must be avoided, as it has a decided tendency to tinge the silk stripe a yellowish shade. Give a run on the polisher, brush, shear and press. After pressing, a run on the dewing machine will improve the handle very materially. After a final Inspection the goods are ready for rolling up, and it the pieces have received the care and attention they should have in the various processes, the silk will be found clear white, with the beauty and luster improved rather than dimin- ished. LAYOUT. 4.828 ends; reed 18 — 4 = 67" listing = 68%" over all. 7 2 picks. Dressing pattern: 2/48 white 16 16 32 60/2 silk 2 2 34 CALCULATIONS. 284 ends 60/2 silk = .ijo oz. 10% 4.544 ends 2/48 = 6.4 oz. 10% 72 X 68.6 ■2 picks 2/48 -= 48X660-5-2-^16 + 1%" for COST. -099 oz. silk -I- 3% waste = 1.01 oz. iTf J3.40 per lb = $ .0240 11.81 oz, worsted + 5% waste = 12.43 oz. (a) 90c. per lb = .7468 -I- .= .099 or. 4- . = 5.940 oz. = 5.870 oz. Cost of stock $ .7698 Cost of manufacturing. 72 picks.. = .3750 Net mill cost J1.1448 Selling price $1.42%: terms. 10-30. Loom weight 11.909 oi. ■■Dnaana DiBDnaaa DDaaaDia ■□oaaooa 120 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY NEEDLE CORDS The manufacture of staple dress fabrics such as this is confined almost entirely to a few of our large corporations who specialize to a certain ex- tent on goods of similar construction. Only a few years since, buyers for our large department stores considered it necessary to buy the larger part of their high-texture dress goods in the foreign marliet, but of late domestic mills have given more attention to the production of such cloths, with the result that a large proportion of the business has been taken by American mills. The difficulty of weaving fine single yarns was probably the strong- est argument against attempting to produce such fabrics here, but improved methods and machinery, combined with increased skill of the operative, has enabled domestic manufacturers to produce results that in all respects are equal to those attained abroad. The needle cord derives its name from the peculiar effect produced by the weave used in interlacing the warp and weft, the fine ribs, in some cases as many as 24 to the inch, showing the appearance that might be expected to result from innumerable punctures with a needle. One of the great objections to turning the equipment of a mill to this class of fabrics is the fine spinning required, with the consequent smaller production per spindle, and the very much less yardage produced per loom, owing to the high number of picks per inch in part, and partially also to the slower speed at which it is necessary to operate the looms when weaving fine single warps. The yarns used must be well spun, free as possible from slugs and oth- er manufacturing imperfections. In order to avoid the breakage in weav- ing which would be caused by the interlacing of the fibres clinging to the yarn made on frames, the yarns used in fine fabrics of this character are invariably mule spun. This method of yarn manufacture produces a much smoother thread than can be made on frames by either cap or flier spin- ning. In addition to this, another process is added to the yarn making, that is, the Warp Yarns Are "Gassed" or singed. This operation consists of passing the thread between gas flames, so adjusted as to burn off the extending fibres without injury to the thread itself. The result is an extremely smooth thread which presents much less opportunity tor chafing than one not so treated. The warps are run through the slasher, which gives them a coat of size, evenly distributed and thoroughly dried before the yarn is wound on the beam. Care must be taken to see that the drying is completed in the ma- chine or the entire warp will be spoiled. Should the yarn be moist as It winds on the beam, successive layers will become so matted together that it will be impossible to weave them off except with a maximum of labor and expense and with a great opportunity for the making of imperfect goods. The best sizing materials to use is a much-discussed question. Some mills will have nothing but the best fish glue used, while others find many of the prepared sizes on the market very satisfactory. To obtain the best results a size must be used which possesses the qualities of good penetration, strong adhesive powers and drying hard, still retaining a certain degree of elas- ticity, and one that will stand considerable chafing without pulverizing. Without such a size, the weaving of fine single warps becomes impractical, as no weaver could be found to operate the looms under conditions such as would then exist. The finishing of needle cords does not differ materially from the process used, on a variety of clear-finished dress goods. The burling should be done carefully, all knots removed and slugs reduced. Scouring should be accom- plished by the use of a pure neutral soap built up to suitable strength with WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 121 a mild alkali. After scouring, the pieces should go at once to the crabbing machine. For this worli a Continuous Crab Is Preferable to either the single or double crab of the Yorkshire type. There are several reasons lor this preference, as tlie operation is continuous and the machine does the work with less labor and expense. From the crab the goods should be rolled tightly on wooden rolls, covered with cotton cloth and allowed to stand for at least twenty-four hours, the rolls being turned end for end at intervals of not exceeding eight hours. The dyeing is done in the usual manner, tlie kettle holding from ten to sixteen pieces, according to tlie length of pieces and size of tub. It is unwise to crowd the kettle, as good results cannot be expected if the ma- chine is overloaded. When the correct shade is obtained, the dye liquor is drawn off, the goods cooled and rinsed in the kettle, then extracted and dried. After drying, the pieces are given a few runs on the brush, then sheared or singed, brushed, inspected and pressed. For goods of this char- acter, or in fact any other class of goods, the old-style plate press will give superior results. LAYOUT. COST. 4.992 ends: reed 13—6 = 64" + 1%" tor ^--^^ °^^ +,.S% waste =4.47 oz. @ Ustlng = 65%" over all. , i^'^' ^^-^,^\„ ; „■ ; ; = S.2469 IfiO nlpk^ ''•2* oz- + 3% waste = 6.42 oz. @ ibu PICKS. 96e. per lb = .3852 CALCULATIONS. 4.992 ends 1/36 = 3.96 oz. -f 7% Stock cost $.6311 lake-up .... ^ 4.26 oz. Manufacturing, 160 picks = .6300 65%X160 160 picks 1/48 = ..= 6.24 oz. Net cost $1.2611 (48X660)-i-16 Loom weight 10.50 oz. ■ uuuuacumcaao tl ■■DCBBfcBrDGD ^ DDBBGiIj □■■■■ O ■■■■UDCr.BSDD rr; DDUCBBfcBnrjBB g aDQaB«ar»«B« COTTON MIXTURE THIBETS The thibet is a fabric much used for overcoatings in the heavier weights, and may be made from pure wool, as are the higher grade cloths, or with a mixture of cotton, shoddy and wool, as is the usual custom in manufactur- ing the lower-priced cloths. The appearance of the goods is somewhat similar to a melton, but has not the characteristic melton touch. The stock mixture must be governed to a great extent by the price at which it is in- tended to sell the finished goods, but it is essential that the materials used shall have sufficient felting properties to give a good cover to the face with- out excessive gigging or tender goods will result, one of the worst mishapa that can befall a mill. Imperfections of other kinds may be overcome to i» certain extent or the goods sold as seconds at no great loss, but materials that are tender are practically impossible to dispose of at any price, except at their value as rags. The greater part of the thibets are either solid shades or mixtures, but occasionally they are used as the groundwork for a pencil stripe or other fancy pattern. The fabric is what might be termed a "finisher's cloth," that is to say, it has little indication as it comes from the loom of what it will become under treatment by a skilled finisher with an equipment of machin- ery such as is found in a modern woolen mill finishing room. As the goods ^ come from the loom they are of coarse, open texture, and to the ordinarj 122 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY observer it would seem -svell-nigh impossible for them to be so manipulated as to become the soft, smootli-faced fabric fit to clothe the most fastidious. For the production of the sample here described the stock mixture for the warp was made up of the following: 20% cotton @ 16c = S.2c. 10% wool (g) 40c = 4.0c. 40% card waste @ 10c = 4.0c. 30% coar.se extract @ 12c = 3.6c. Total cost per pound 14.8c. The filling mixture should have a larger percentage of wool In order to secure the necessary felting properties but in the manufacture of a low-pric- ed fabric such as this, it is essential that the stock be secured at as low a price as is compatible with the results to be obtained. For the filling we wilJ use a mixture made up of the following: 15% wool f® 40c = 6.0c. 15% cotton @ 16c = 2.4c. 30% card waste @ 10c = 3.0c. 40% coarse extract © 12c = 4.8c. Total cost per pound 16.2c. The stock costs here given may look extremely low and lead one to think that the work will run badly through the mill, but such is not the case. With competent men in charge of the carding and spinning depart- ments, there will be no trouble in making a thread that will be strong enough to weave without any difficulty and secure an excellent production. In preparing lots of this character for the card room It will be found aecessary to use more care than would be the case were the stock all wool of one or two grades. In order that the goods may full evenly and give no trouble in the dyeing, it is very essential that the various stocks should be blended into a homogeneous mixture. The lot should be laid out In the picker room in layers, containing as nearly as may be, without too much labor, the correct percentages of the various stocks. The oil should be put on the wool stock, as the cotton will absorb all that It requires from con- tact with the moist layers of woolen material. While it is a common practice to use a mineral oil as a lubricant for low-grade woolens, it is not to be commended. Jlineral oils are not readily saponified, and there is possibil- ity of having considerable trouble in removing the oil during the finlshlag process. A much safer method of procedure is to Use Either a Lard or Red Oil, either of which will saponify without difficulty, and may be removed with detergents of a much less harsh character than would be required In the use of a mineral oil. The emulsion may be prepared by placing in a barrel two pails of water to each pail of oil and cutting the oil with borax or some mild alkali. The emulsion should be applied warm, about twelve quarts to the hundred pounds of stock, which will give an application of four quarts of oil. The stock should be run through the picker three times to obtain thorough mixing, or the lack of even distribution of the various stocks through the mixture may become the source of trouble in subsequent opera- tions. The cards should be in first-class condition, although many manu- facturers seem to think that low stock may be put through any sort of a machine and good results be obtained. It is a great mistake to attempt to make yarn from any kind of stock without first making certain that the equipment is in the best possible con- dition. The Carding of Short Stock requires no little skill and experience, as there Is a strong tendency for the shoddy and card waste to leave the mixture, dropping under the cards, while the longer cotton and wool fibres are carried on by the clothing and con- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 123 verted into roving. It may be necessary to change the setting of the cards, and to slow up the fancies if not the main cylinder to obviate too great a loss of the short stock. It is a decided advantage to have the cards doubled up for work of this kind, that is, to place the first and second breakers as near together as possible, interpolate a couple of extra rolls as conveyers which will take the stock from the first breaker doffer and carry it to the cylinder ot the second breaker without the intervention of the Apperly feed. The roving should be made at least two-thirds the size of the yarn to be spun, as the stock will stand but a limited amount of draft. The warp yarn should be spun with the least amount of twist that will give tlie requisite strength, ind should be right-hand twist. The filling may have considerably less twist, and must be spun to the left in order to obtain all the cover possible. Dress with no more tension on the spools than is necessary to give a fairly firm warp on the reel, as it is essential to retain all the Elasticity and Life possible in the yarns. It will prove advantageous to draw the warps on eight harnesses, thereby avoiding unnecessary crowding of the heddles and undue chafing of the threads during tlie process of weaving. It is a great mistake, and one frequently made, to think that all that is required of a loom fixer is to put the warp in the loom, fasten the harness straps, tie in tlie warp, adjust the reed and start the loom. This is all sim- ply preliminary work. After the heading has been woven and the broken ends tied in, the loom should be gone over with care to see that it is in the best possible shape to weave the particular fabric it is desired to produce. Adjustments of various parts may be made, which, while seeming of little importance, may affect the production very materially. The point at which the shed closes, relative to the position of the reed, the timing of the har- ness motion cylinders, and the picking motion, are all minor details, but In total ot extreme importance. Tlie shuttles should have a thorough examina- tion, and all rough places gone over with sand paper, the points put in per- fect condition and the "brushes" adjusted so as to give the proper amount of friction on the fillings to prevent "runners" or filling drawing in at the sides. The picking motion should be set in such a manner that both sides of the loom pick together, or with possibly a slight lead on the head motion side. The height of the harnesses should be sufficient to allow the bottom shed to clear the race plate nicely, yet not high enough to throw out the shuttle or cause split bobbins. Should the reed be shorter than the reed space at either or both ends, fill in the space, if of any size with small pieces of reed, nicely adjusted, avoiding a too common trouble, that of having the shuttles fly out, which not only lowers production but is a source ot danger to the operative. With well-made yarns the burling and mending will be a small item in the cost of finishing, but it must not be understood that the burling can be slighted. All knots should be raised on both sides of the goods, not pulled out or broken off too short, as such procedure will allow the ends to be drawn back in the fulling, leaving a "pin hole," which may not be detected except by looking through the goods. In order to Obtain a Well-Covered Face on fabric constructed of low stock, such as we propose to use, it will require a run on the napping machine before fulling. It will appear to some of our finisher friends that this method is somewhat out of the ordinary, but the results obtained fully justify this procedure. This breaking up of the face in the grease before fulling will give a much better fabric than one finsihed In the ordinary manner. By this preliminary napping the fibres are put into much better condi- tion for felting during the fulling operation. In running the pieces into the mill start them with the nap pointing toward the rolls, as a much more 124 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY closely matted surface will be obtained in this way. The soap will need to be full bodied, long lived, and well fortified with alkali to fully saponify the grease and oil contained in the low stock mixture. A combination of fifty per cent pure tallow and fifty per cent palm oil will be found to do the work nicely. We do not advocate the use of tallow soaps on goods which may be fulled in a short time, but for fabrics which require long, hard fulling they are practically a necessity, as palm oil soaps will not retain their vi- tality under these conditions. It is impossible to give a Hard-and-Fast Formula which will give perfect results on all kinds of goods, each finisher usually having certain proportions of soap and alkali which he has found to be well adapted for the stocks and fabrics manufactured by the mill in which he is employed. If the soap used is of the proper strength to hold the grease and dirt in suspension through the process of fulling, it is very probable that no addi- tional quantity will be required in the washer. The pieces should be taken directly from the mills to the washing machine and scoured with sufficient warm water to float them and rinse out the impurities. After twenty to thirty minutes in the suds the dirty liquor should be drawn off and the goods given a thorough rinsing, first with warm then with cold water, until every trace of soap has been removed. Extract for five minutes and place on the napper before sending them to the dyehouse. Thibets should not be nap- ped all one way, but the pieces should be reversed at about the middle of the operation. On the fabric here described three runs in each direction should be enough to give the desired amount of nap. The dyeing is accomplished by means of any good union dye, and plenty of time must be given to secure thorough penetration of the fibre. Do not overload the kettle or bring to a boil too rapidly or uneven goods may be the result. The goods must be cooled off and well rinsed before being re- moved from the dye kettle, then thoroughly extracted and dried. In drying, the Heat Must Not Be Excessive or the handle of the cloth will be seriously impaired. When dry, give the pieces a couple of runs on the brush, then shear to match the finish desir- ed. If the goods have been properly handled they will have a short thick nap with no threads visible. Give the pieces a final inapec- LATOUT. J.SOO ends; reed 10 — 4 = 70" + 1%" for listing = 71. L." o\-er all. fo picky. C.\l.Cni,-\TIOXS. -' SOO ends -ll-'i run ^ 10.18 oz. + 5rj. ^ 10.70 oz- 71.5X40 40 plPk.s .3 run = = 9.53 oz. 300 Loom weight 20 23 oz. Flnifhid weight 14-14"; oz. 8 harness, straight draw. FRONT. ■■Gaaa-l ■_Had_Ha ■■■UBIB- ZBBflGBia ■LBiBcaa ■■■[:aaBG COST. 10,7 oz. warp + 25% shrinkage = 14,27 oz. la 14.8c. per lb = t .127S 9.r)3 oz, filling + 25% shrinkage = 12.7 oz, @ 16.20. per lb = .128T t .2660 Labor = .2000 Incidentals = .1200 Net mill cost t .6760 Profit = .0640 DLscount, commission and guar- antee = .1600 Selling price t .8000 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 125 tion before brushing, and a run of steam before they are placed on the dewing machine. It will be found that a fairly heavy spray may be used to advantage before pressing, thereby improving both the han- dle and appearance of the goods. Run on the press with face to the cylin- der under fairly heavy pressure, give a light run of steam and the goods are ready for rolling up. ZIBELINE COATINGS The name zibeline is applied to many fabrics which are somewhat allied in appearance to the real zibeline, yet are made from entirely different stock and are easily detected as imitations. The present fall season's offerings of ladies' coatings are made up largely of fabrics under this name, while but few of them are rightfully entitled to it. The true zibe- line is a fabric with a straight, glossy nap which entirely obscures the weave, and a rich luster which closely approximates that of a glossy fur. The imitations are largely made of a coarse woo! and, tliough finished in a similar manner, are entirely lacliing in the rich glossy appearance which denotes the real article. The construction of these fabrics is very similar to that of the ordinary cheviot, the important differenca being in the stock employed. In the cheviot a coarse wool is used which is more or less curly in its nature, while in the manufacture of the zibeline a per- centage of mohair is blended with the wool. Mohair is the fleece of the Angora goat, and is a long comparatively straight fibre, having a silky luster, which gives the finished goods a bright glossy appearance whicn it is impossible to attain with wool. There are several variations of the fabric which are popular this season, some in single cloths, others witli fancy backs in stripes or plaids, some with the face of a solid color. Zibeline Coating others with a distinct color pattern on both face and back of the goods. The style here first described is a single cloth of a solid color, probably woven in the white on the double loom system, with a warp of fine yarns In the second loom, '^he yams are coarse and Require No Special Skill in their manufacture, though trouble may come in the spinning, if an attempt 126 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY is made to spin with too much draft, owing to the slippery nature of the mohair fibre, due to the comparative lack of the imbrications or serra- tions peculiar to wool. The pieces are fulled and scoured as usual, then put on the wet gig to raise and straighten the nap. This operation is car- ried on while the goods are wet, as the tangled fibres are much more readily straightened out while rendered soft and pliable by the water. The wire napper is not as well adapted to this class of fabrics as the old-fashioned teasel gig which is not so harsh in its action. The gigging is all in one direction, as the desired result is a long straight nap. When the pieces are napped sufficiently they are placed on a wot brush to thoroughly straighten out and lay the fibres close to the cloth. The roll on which the cloth is wound on this machine is a tube with many perforations, connected with pipes and valves which permit of forcing steam or water through the goods while rolled. The blowing of hot steam through the pi >ces followed by cold water sets the cloth and imparts an added luster. If piece dyes, the goods are now ready for the dye- house and are usually colored in kettles holding from six to eight pieces. In coloring napped goods it is absolutely essential that the pieces run in the direction opposite to that in which the nap is laid in order to disturb it as little as possible. After drying the goods are examined for imper- fections, knots, etc., brushed well and run through the press, face to the bed. 1 r,6 4 list l:s pi ends ; ing = cks. enOs L.\TOUT. reerl 11 % — 2 = 68" 691/2" over all. CALCtlLATIONS. 21,^ run = 6.256 oz. -1- + 1%" tor 6.694 oz. 7.784 oz. STOC 50% wool ifii 40c. 50% mohair noil 'K MIXTUR per lb rt]) 30c. per .B. . = $ .20000 .= .18000 , — $ .38000 Cost per ounce . 14. 4S oz. + 20% oz. @ $.02376 1 r,ii4 COST, shrinkage = 1S,1 ks = T.oom 28X69V6 L'.S Die 250 weight Jlill cost 14.478 oz. $ .7149 The novelty fabric here illustra face a zibeline with an ordinary wool of manufacture is practically the sa LAYOUT. 2,520 ends; reed 9 — 4 = 70" + IV," tor listing = 71 V2" over all. 28 picks, C-ALCUL.\TIONS. 840 ends 2/36 cotton = .89 oz, + 10% take-up = .98 oz. 1,680 ends 1 Vi run = 13,44 oz. + 10% lake-up = 14.78 oz, 28X71.5 2S picks 1^ = = 15.28 oz. 137,5 r.oom weight Finished weight 24 oz, COST, 5% waste ted is a double cloth having for its en cloth for the back. The process me as for the piece-dye zibeline In MOHAIR MIXTURE. 40% mohair noils fa) 32c = $ .128 20% wool (Si 40c = ,080 40% crossbred noil (5) 35c = ,140 WOOLEN MIXTURE. 30% wool ffl 40c 70% crossbred noli (3) 35c $ ,348 $ .120 .246 31.04 oz. !■■" ■ncn ".naa 1,03 20% ! .0206 ,;^8 oz, cotton oz, a 32c. 15,03 oz, mohair mixture waste = 18.8 oz. Hi 34,8c = ,4080 15,03 oz, woolen mixture + 20% waste = 18,8 oz, @ 36,5c = .4287 t .8673 Manufacturing = .2856 Mill cost 11,1429 ■■■a. ■,:]naaBH>CBBBBcnG BaBan^BDc^BrBnBB BBCBBCBCB'BCnaBn □DDBBCanGBCDBBBa WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 127 the foregoing analysis, the chief element of difference in the two fabrics being the construction. The yarns used in the face of the double cloth are of the same mixture as used in the single cloth, and the yarns for the back are made entirely of "wool. In the construction of fabrics of this type having the face and back of strongly contrasting colors, it will be found necessary to unite the two cloths by means of an extra warp in order to avoid having the back show through on the face, as would be very apt to occur if the back warp was interlaced with the face. The extra warp may be of worsted, as is customary with high-priced cloths, or of cotton, and should be interlaced in such a manner as to avoid having the interlacing form a pattern that is discernible on either side. In the cloth here de- scribed the stitch warp is of 2-36 cotton interlaced on a satin plan which hides it effectually. The stripe effect on the face of the sample is obtained by reversing the weave on two of the warp threads face and back, throw- ing the back to the face and vice versa, giving a clean cut stripe of the contrasting colors. The particular pattern here described would be the most expensive of the range, as the white back will not permit of using any shoddy. In the darker colors the stock for the back warp and filling can be manipu- lated so as to reduce the cost materially. FANCY BACK PRUNELLA This is one of the modern variations of an ancient and well-known cloth, one possibly as familiar to our grandmothers as the serge is to the present generation. In recent years this fabric has had but little vogue as a costume cloth and has been used to a great extent for shoe tops. Its name is derived from the French prunelle, a plum, presumably from the color it most com- monly bore in early times. Some years ago it was a much esteemed fabric, and was used for many purposes which in these times require a much finer fabric of higher texture and more expensive construction. It possesses wear- ing qualities that surpass those of many more expensive cloths and is warm without being bulky. The example here described is made with worsted face warp and filling, with a two-ply cotton back in stripes one-sixth of an inch wide, alternate black and white. The weave employed is the seven- harness satin for both back and face, one being the reverse of the other. In a construction of this kind it would be perfectly feasible to use a cotton fill- ing also, as the weft is entirely concealed from view by the close texture and clever interlacing of the warp. The goods may be woven in the grey and piece dyed by a selection of dyes that will not stain the cotton while coloring the worsted threads, and is the method usually used, as it retains the waste in the white, a much more valuable form of by-product and one more readily salable than is colored thread waste. The yarns used for the face warp are not of fine grade, nor particularly fine counts, the stock used being a Three-Eighths Blood Missouri Fleece spun to 2-40s for the warp and single 36s for filling. The apparently great discrepancy in texture does not result in such a poorly-balanced cloth as might be supposed, but has a tendency to accentuate the desired characteris- tic of the fabric, that is, to make it a more decided warp cloth. If that be possible. In fabrics of high texture, both in warp and filling, the prunella becomes practically a repellant, and is susceptible of being made waterproof V. dh comparatively little treatment. Its fine, close, smooth surface renders it a particularly useful fabric in the manufacture of shoe tops and gaiters, 1S§ WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY and for these purposes there Is no type of cloth manufactured which will give the same service for the price. With warp yarns made from long-staple wool that has received careful treatment in all the processes of manufac- ture the fabric ^vill give such long service that one will readily understand the derivation of one of its common names, "everlasting." In the finer grades the warps are made from 2-48s half-blood stock, with a relatively higher texture, and the filling is made from combed Sea Island cotton, making a fabric that is extremely fine with a soft, firm face and wearing qualities that are hard to excel. The manufacture of these goods is not attended with any particular difficulty and should show good profits. The comparatively high texture of the weft has a tendency to re- duce the production to a certain extent, although this is overcome some- what by the fact that the cotton back-warp improves the weaving consider- ably. To secure the best possible results It Would Be Well To Size the Warp, particularly if the yarns are flyer-spun, as there will be a much less break- age of the warp yarns in weaving, a material aid in obtaining production, and also will save a considerable amount of time and expense in the subse- quent finishing operations, especially in the sewing and mending depart- ments. In several of our leading department stores the fancy back prunella is offered for suiting purposes, and is said to be meeting with no little suc- cess as a fabric for automobile wear in the chilly days of early fall, before it becomes necessary to don the heavier mackinaws and furs that have be- come the usual garments for cold weather riding. As an outer coat it is warm, not bulky, and can be easily tailored into a variety of styles not pos- sible to attain with fabrics more clumsy in construction. The fancy back gives the tone so much desired in garments for this purpose and the close face does not hold the dust which so readily accumulates in the rougher fac- ed cloths. The process of manufacture is similar to that employed in the production of clear-finished men's wear fabrics. The greater portion of goods of this type are manufactured by mills having the necessary machin- ery for Spinning Their Own Worsted Yarns, a very considerable saving in the cost of production. The majority of such mills purchase much of their wool directly from the grower, thereby effect- ing a saving of the profit usually taken by the dealer, and giving them a de- cided advantage over the mill with a limited capital, which must of neces- sity buy in smaller quantities, and, in many cases, at a considerably higher price. In times of hard competition it is the small savings of this sort that make up the greater portion of the limited margin of profit it is possible to obtain. The mill equipped with an up-to-date spinning plant in connection with its weaving machinery is in much better position to fix prices than Its competitor that must purchase yarns in the open market, paying the spin- ner a profit over his fixed charges and operating expense. In making yarns for this class of fabrics it is not necessary to sort the wool as closely as would be the case in manufacturing yarns for men's wear, in fact, in some dress goods mills the graded fleeces are made into but three sorts, or two sorts and the skirts. The shrinkage of these wools is light, as is the per cent of noil made. In scouring, it is essential that there should be nothing but pure materials and soft water used. The use of Soda Soaps Is Not Advisable, although it is very true that the action of soda compounds is not nearly as harmful on low-grade wools as it is on the flner staples. The scouring liquor should be prepared by first boiling the detergents to be used In a suitable tank that they may be dissolved and thoroughly mixed. This makes a stock solution from which the scouring liquor may be made up with ease WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY l29 and accuracy. A very satisfactory formula tor the stock tank is eight ounces of soap and four ounces of alkali per gallon of water, in preparing the scouring liquor in tlie wool-wasliing machine use four gallons of the stock solution to each hundred gallons of water; if additional alkali is Indicated, it should first be dissolved in warm water then added to the bath. The sec- ond and third bowls of tlie machine should have less ot the stock solution and the fourth bowl a very weak bath. It is very essential that the detergents used contain no free caustic al- kali, as this has a very injurious effect on tlie wool fibre. It may be that exception will be taken to the use of a soap liquor in the final bowl of the scouring machine, but many years' experience has amply proven that wools for worsted combing should not be rinsed in clear water, as Is the custom with clothing wools. The light amount of soap carried by the fibre acts as a lubricant in the subsequent process of carding. The amount of noil made in combing stock of this grade should be very small, not over ten per cent at the most, and the entire shrinkage from clean wool to top should not ex- ceed 121/^ per cent. In the further processes of manufacture It will be neces- sary to use good judgment as to draft, and care must be taken to see that the top rolls are in good condition. A great many of the imperfections in worsted yarns are due to defective top rolls, a slight unevenness here allow- ing the sliver to pass through without being acted upon in the proper man- ner, causing a buucli or slug that must be removed later with attendant la- linr and expense. In no part of the process of manufacture is there a greater exemplifica- tion of the truth of the old saw that "an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure." The rolls on every machine should be examined at least twice daily, those that are imperfect being removed and replaced with new- ly-covered, smooth rolls. This may appear to be a small item, a "mere trifle," but it is strict attention to these Trifles that Bring tiie Perfection which should be the aim of everyone from bobbin boy to manager. The spinning and twisting ot the warp yarn should be followed by a rigid in spection of the finished yarn before it goes to the spooler. The removal of defects here may mean the saving of allowances on the finished goods, and is effected with much more ease while the yarn is free than when woven tightly into cloth. Especial care should be given to the roving frames, re- ducers and spinning frames used in the production of the filling yarns, as these are used direct from the spinner bobbins, allowing no opportunity for inspection or removal of imperfections before they are in the woven goods. The dressing is done on a dry frame, preferably, as the time gained in this way is a considerable item, the sizing on the slasher not only taking much less time but also being much more even, giving better results in the weave room in the way ot production and even warps. The equipment of the looms with some form of Warp Stop IVIotion Is Strongly to be Recommended, as it allows the weaver to devote practically his whole time and attentloii to the filling and guarding against defects of various kinds. It may be said that there should be no necessity for such an appliance, but it is a device that will soon repay its cost in increased production and practical elimina- tion of long threads out, which are a source of no little expense in the fin- ishing department. The burling and sewing are not difficult, but should be performed with care, every knot raised both sides of the goods, threads out sewed in and slugs reduced or replaced with perfect yarn. In using single filling it must be well conditioned before attempting to use it in the shuttle or there will be a great deal of trouble from succeeding picks looping round the loose thread between the listing and the shuttle box, drawing the 130 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY doubled thread into the shed, a very common form of imperfection. The means of preventing this usually in vogue are either steaming the yam to set the twist or a hot-air treatment which gives approximately the same re- sult. The use of Heavier Brushes in the Shuttles is not to be recommended, as this places an undue amount of tension on the yarn and has a tendency to make the goods have a "teethy" appearance, as well as being a prolific source of broken picks, a form of imperfection which should be eliminated if possible. In scouring, it should not be necessary to use a strong soap, as the goods contain very little in the way of impurities aside from the slight amount of oil, applied in the yarn making, and the size used in the dressing room. A pure palm oil soap fortified with a suf- ficient quantity of pure alkali to saponify the oil contents should give very satisfactory results. The use of a strong alkali soap is not only unneces- sary but absolutely harmful in the extreme. In fact, the use of harsh al- kali in any process of woolen or wortsed manufacturing is inexcusable and should not be allowed under any circumstances. Before dyeing, the goods would be much improved by a run through the Continuous Crabbing Machine, a process which will put the goods in much better condition for subsequent operations and remove the danger of wrinkles showing in the finished goods. If the treatment of the pieces in the wet finishing has been what it should be in every particular, it is not at all likely that the dyeing will be attended with any difficulty. The most prolific source of shady goods is the wet finishing department, not tlie dyehouse, as so many of our superin- tendents and managers seem to think. The pieces should be run into a ket- tle large enough to hold them without undue crowding with sufficient water to submerge the entire quantity of goods, aside from the portion necessarily lifted from the bath during its passage over the reel. If care is taken to have the pipine so arranged that the heating of the bath is prac- tically alike in all parts of the tub the results should be as nearly perfect as it is possible to attain in tliis world of imperfections. In case it is necessary to add dyestufl's to procure the shade desired, the bath should be allowed to cool or the results will be far from satisfactory. The tales of shading colors that may be safely added at the boil should not receive too implicit confidence, or it may be that there will be a sudden change of dyers as a result of such faith. Even with the best of drugs and the greatest care there are poor results at times, and no chances should be taken that are avoidable. In making a test for shade it is Advisable to Dry the Sample and run it through the press before matching, so that It may have as nearly as possible the same treatment as was accoraed the reference sam- ple in the limited time at the disposal of the dyer. The necessity for this is readily appreciated by anyone who is familiar wit'^ the change in ap- pearance of many colors during the finishing process. SI ,vild the shade prove satisfactory, the p'eces should be cooled off, thoroughly rinsed, extracted and dried. The operation of drying is usually accomplished by means of artificial heat in some form of drying machine, one of the most approved being the horizontal chain dryer, with low feed and attachments that enable one op- erative to attend to the feeding of the cloth. The selvages of the goods are engaged by steel or br.nss pins set at in- tervals of about a quarter of an inch in the links of endless chains which carry the goods between steam-heated coils, thus hastening the drying, while the goods are tentered by the chains which are held at a fixed distance apart by means of suitable guides and sprockets. If necessary to increase the output of the dryer, it is advisable to add a section rather than to increase WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 131 the heat, as excessive heat has an injurious effect on the wool fibre. The dry pieces sliould be brushed, sheared both sides, brushed a second time, inspect- ed, any damages that are found repaired, sprayed, and are then ready for the press. The press should be hot, not merely warm, and not speeded too high. The finish resulting from too high speed of the press is very eva- nescent, and a second run will be necessary to secure permanent results, en- tailing a waste of time and additional labor. Allow the pieces to cool off on _ the rolls, spray, inspect and roll up. Goods so treated will have a finish that " will remain for a considerable length of time, and will not water spot. LAYOUT. 10,,"i:s ends; reed 16 — 10 = 66. S" + 1%" for listing: ^ 67.3" over aU. 7 pieks. Dressed; , . , , il 2/!0 white worsted. ^^11 2/48 wlilte cotton. . , .. S 1 2/40 wiiite worsted. '-'•*"( 1 2/4S blaeli cotton. CALCUL.ATIO.N'S. 5,264 ends 2/40 worsted = 7.52 oz. + 5% take-up = 7.900 oz. 5,261 ends 2/4ti cotton = 4. IS oz. + 5% take-up = 4.3S0 oz. 70X67.3 70 pks. 1/32 wstd, ^^ = 4.260 oz, (;I2X 560)H-16 Loom weight 16.54y oz. COST. T.:"i o;:, worsted -\- Ij ^o waste = oz. .S4c. per lb ■i.;-;^!i oz. cotton + &% waste — .'4.6 $ .445 .115 A. '26 «'/.. worsted + '3% wciste = 4,39 .214 Cost of stoek $ .774 .375 Xi't iiiill cost $1 149 ^ HGBGBGBGBBB GG H HBta i.iG* MGa: ibg Z B B B.'.JdB - _^m3 -^ BG -_.B .BG J hB r.-- a^UjilB l._J.JMUBlJ p G^'a jaGa.jj^iB-BG » ■„B-M_^^B^B.,BG mmm mmmu Diagonals, or wide wales as they are frequently termed in the trade, have been extremely popular with the cutting-up trade for the past two seasons. They are developed boUi in piece-dytH and fancies fen- men's wear and dress goods in a great \ariety of colors and weights. Their manu- facture requires no special equipment unless it is desired to produce styles which need more harnesses than are to be found available in some of our mills. Many of the recent additions to the weaving equipment of our wor- sted mills have been Thirty-Harness looms, and with this type of machinery the designer will be able to produce an extremely varied line of diagonals. The fabrics vary in texture somewhat from the ordinary fancy worsted, there being a seeming disproportion between the threads of warp and filling, the warp having a relatively low number of ends with a higher number of picks for the same weight. The expense of man- ufacturing tliis type of fabric is somewhat higher than the ordinary twilled worsteds for two reasons: First, the cost of weaving is increased on account of the higlier filling texture, and production is smaller, which naturally in- creases the o\eihead charges per yard. By means of combination twills the designer is enabled to produce diagonals on the ordinary harness loom that apparently require a jacquard loom for their manufacture. The method of procedure for manufacturing this class of diagonals is not intricate, and should be familiar to every designer on worsteds for men's wear or dress goods. A single example should be sufficient to make the principle so clear that there will be no difficulty in working out a great variety. For use in our illustration we have selected a twill complete on 20-har- 132 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY ness A and one repeating on thirty-harness B; each will repeat evenly on sixty bars. In making the combination twills we use the first warp end of A, the second ot B, third A and fourth B, proceeding in this manner until we have used every alternate end in each chain. By cross drafting they are reduced to a working basis in chain C, and the accompanying drawing-in draft: BDDBB^-- ■■-":; ^-HG ■ ■D^BBQjQ^.aa u jG ggg BBBCuBB ^^ BB GG a BBBaauflBi. 'G^ai ^^^GL.G BBBBBDGBB GUGI ■ lG' iGG UBBBBBJ.aa . L. ■■ aGBBBBB LBB. :^ ■ l^G^ naGBBBBanrBB g IB G QGu^BBBBB ' BB BBG GGCGGBBBBBGLjai u^BB BGGGGGBBBBBj_B ■ GG^B BB nGGGBBBBa ^ ■ ■ GBBGGGGG' BBBB. ll IGGG GUBB ^ ^aaaai ■ B G GGgB*: ^GGCIBBBB ■ BBG LOG BB _""'_GBBB ■■ GGBB BuH^ BB ^ t_Bl II 1^ B BBG G^BBOGGGGl ■■ IBGU GBBGGG^BBG "CG-Bl IBBG GGBBGl^GGBBGI G J ■ IBBB 1 L' -i * 6 9 7 a 9iUlllJm+ IbJb B~ BB BBUL_^ waste — 1.17 oz. 16. SI oz. COST. 16.S1 oz. -S 51 = SI. 050 Manufacturing ^ .514 Mill cost SI. 564 ■:«:«j«»;»:;c~GB[;czCB ■:jBzbb^b2.b_: , zb~^g ■^■■^■^■^■■-ZB^ZZGBn ■ BZBZ.BZBBrBl Z_B_"_ZlJ ZBZBZBBZB .BZBZZ_ZBaa ZBZBB_BZ»ZBB..ZB.ZZZZB ZBBZB .B~ BBZaZZZZBZDD ZZBZB_BB_B B_B.__ZZ.Ba ■_BZBBZBZ»ZBBZZBZZ U ZZ«B_B_ BZBBZBZZ-ZBZD ZZ.ZB„BZBaZB_BZBZZ^ZB ZBZBZBBZB"»ZBBZZBDZn ZZ_BB .BZi _aB .BZ" ZZB^ B_"Zk_B' BB_B_ BZBZ_ZZ Z_BZB-BB." BZfczao; ZBca Z_ZZ BZB.-^ZBB BZZZGB "B^^ZB'B BBZaZBZa_ZZ ZZ .BZBZBBZBZBZBBZZBZ a. .ZZZBBZBZBZBBZBZ JCD "ZB"Z_EZBZBB..B_aZBZa Z "ZZB-.BZaBZBZBZBBZZB rB_ZZ BB-BZB_.B. BZCG "Z"BZ_ZB "BZBBZ "aZBO ■__ZZB.B BB_BZB_BBZZ Z.-'B _._ZBB_BZBZB.-ZBaG ^zz"B a ■B_aBzazBZB "B""Z .BZBZBB _m BZBBZ Z-. _aV__Zai.ZBZE_BBZBZ h i a B.I~ B^'B BB'BZBO 2 HZ a a BB a azaa ~B ~ ~' aa B~B kbzb O : "a " .: .B "B_a^B»ZB^B B"""a_ _za .a: BB-K-Bza fe 1 a__z_azz. zaa bzbzbb- a~ a_" -Za "z« .a. aaza^ BBZZB_ZZZBZa".«B; BZBZ ^B ~ ~ a BB~a azBB ~B az ZBZZ aza aa.a zaaz a,--, a. azaazazB BZBZ ZB _ZZBB_BZBZB B"a"azzz a: :b_b_bbz az:Baz a- zzbzbzbbzbz BB_B .. .__a_Z BB" BZBZ -a-B_B - .a ..za azaa ZB aB--za .Z_BZB_BBZB -BBZB -- -B- ZBBZaZB a~BZB."BZ _za_z *zbzb a azaBZ-;azz.._B_BZBBJ BZ.Ba B_: -a _zzaBZBD aa 'B .aza "__b__ bzbd zazB aaz az zbzbzbb ZB_Ba-az" .ZB..zz-Ba_B "BBZB aza^z a _z» -B azaza^aa _b -z_bzbzb azazaa_a :z. azz^zaaz BZBB" aza az.. ._B'__BC BazB_aZBa"zavzz 'azaa LBza:-aB_B :z a' .zzbb aaaazzazzzoBCB CHINCHILLA The chinchilla is a fabric especially adapted for use as an overcoating. It is made in a variety of weights and colorings with solid color or fancy backs. The present season's demand for the heavier weights In men's over- coatings is largely for goods with plain backs, while for ladies' wear the fabrics are somewhat lighter in weight with plaid backs predominating. The manufacture of these cloths is a very large factor in the business of several of our mills, and by their policy of keeping their deliveries up to a high standard of excellence have succeeded in building a reputation on their spe- cial cloth which is an extremely valuable asset. A glance over the offerings for the present fall season reveals an ap- parently endless array of colors, weights and prices. From the very bulky WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 13£ three-ply cloths in expensive fabrics suitable for the severest v?inter v?eather, the weights and prices range down the line to a comparatively light-weight single cloth in three-quarter width, made by a concern whose output but a short time since was the humble but very useiul satinet. The fact that the majority of chinchillas are made in weights of from twenty-four to thirty- six ounces gives the sltilled manipulator of stocks an almost unlimited op- portunity to use his knowledge. Many of the fabrics are made with wool for face and back, with a considerable part of the weight added to the goods by means of a third cloth between these two that does not show in the slightest degree on either side. It is one of the most desirable and satis- factory cloths that has yet been produced for overcoating and cloaking pur- poses. While not extremely difficult to make by those accustomed to its fabrication and finishing, there are many manufacturers wlio have failed in the attempt to produce a satisfactory cloth. There are few fabrics wliich change their appearance during the fin- ishing as much as does the chinchilla. As it comes from the loom it is a coarse, thready cloth, with a face that is flat and somewhat loosely woven. With the proper machinery, under the direction of a skilled finisher, a trans- formation takes place that is but little short of marvelous. The only Special Machinery required for the manufacture of these cloths is in the finishing room, the one machine without which the malting of chinchillas is impracticable, if not an utter impossibility. It can also be used for the production of other types of finish, the stock used varying with the price of the goods and also to a certain degree witli the finish wanted, that is. the size of the "nub" or spiral. The face must have sufficient staple to form a thick, long nap in the gigging operation without loosening the fibre from the goods. The stuf- fing and back may be of relatively cheaper material, except in the case of plaid backs of fine texture, wliicli will require comparatively fine spun yarns and stocks suitable for their manufacture. The sample selected for analysis is a solid mixture, back and face the same color and stock, the shade being obtained with 10 per cent white and 90 per cent black. To get an even distribution of so small a percentage of white in the mixture will require more than ordinary care in tlie picking. The best method to pursue in making mixtures of this kind is to first mix the white with an equal amount of black, running it twice through the pick- er, then proceed in the usual manner, using four times the quantity of black for the alternate layers with one part of the black and white mixture. Goody 0- this character need comparatively little Burling and IVler.ding, the heavy nap required for the nub effect in finishing obscuring the weave entirely, and threads out or broken picks will not be noticed In the finished cloth. The fulling will not be a lengthy operation, as the goods are loosely woven and will felt easily, but a good soap must be used, one that will re- tain its life during the fulling and will scour out readily. After washing, the pieces should be well extracted and taken to the gig or wire napper. The napping operation is carried on while the goods are damp, because the wool when moist is more soft and flexible. In this condition it is possible to raise the nap with less waste of stock than can be done in dry napping. When the nap is sufficient for the desired flnish, the goods are dried in the usual manner and taken to the curling machine. This is the principal fea- ture in the finishing of chinchillas. The essential parts of the machine are two beds, between which the cloth is drawn. The lower bed is usually covered with Brussels carpet, the lower face of the upper bed, the rubbing surface, being covered with rubber. By means of eccentrics on the verticle shaft a rotary motion is imparted 136 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSAR-X to the uprer bed which curls the nap into spirals or nubs. The size of the spirals may be changed to a certain extent by increasing or de- creasing the throw- of the eccentrics. The goods require no shearing or pressing in the majority of cases, although occasionally the pieces are crop- ped to regulate the length of the spiral. In the sample here described the face and back warps have the same number of threads in each and they are of the same size. In plaid-back goods it will oftentimes be found that the back cloth has a texture double that of the face in order to secure a fine, neat looking cloth which will take the place of a lining in the garment. Usually the face and back are united iii such a manner as to allow the two cloths to be separated without much trouble, so that for trimming lapels, cuffs, etc., the cloth can be reversed and the face cut away, making a less bulky and very neat finish. This is ordinarily accomplished by the use of an entirely distinct system of warp ends, usually termed the stitching warp, and is gen- erally of worsted for the better grades of goods. LAYOUT. COST. 3,600 ends; reed 12^ — 4 = 72" + Hi" for yo-^V \^-ool Ai40.\b. 20 OS oz. + 20% waste = 36.3 oz. IS 3,600 ends 2 Vi run = 16 oz. + 10% 30.4c. per lb = S .68a7 take-up ^17.60oz. 36x73 5 .6S9i -f £.7c shrinkiigre In finishing = i .7240 36 picks : 14 run = ~ = 11.4S02. Manufacturing, 36 picks + 6%...= .36(,0 Loom weight 29.08 oz. ^'^' ^"^^t »L0920 Finished weight 23-24 oz. f-'lni.^hed width 66". n ■■■ = HtLI*i..bfaM_«Baj P^ ■ ■■ . mms .H.aGBa ■.z,»;i ._ ^u LDua ■ ■■GJaa-Bkai. ■•■! One of the most popular of this type of fabrics is the Cut Chinchilla, now showing in a range of bright colors suitable tor sport coats as well as in a line of mixtures and solid shades for men's wear. The "cut" or striped effect is produced by dressing in the warp at regular intervals threads of cotton or other hard-twisted yarns, which are so interlaced with the filling as to bind it closely to the face of the fabric and prevent the formation of the floats necessary to produce the long nap formed into nubs by the ac- tion of the chinchilla machine. The larger part of these cloths are of double cloth construction with fancy backs, making a pleasing contrast to the rela- tively plain face. From the layout and drafts given as examples of the plain-faced chinchilla the designer will have no difficulty in laying out any number of styles in plaid or plain-backed goods. It is very essential that the fundamental idea be kept in mind, that is, stock long enough to form a long, full nap interlaced in such a manner that the napping machine can tease out the fibre without injuring the structure of the fabric. ALL-WOOL THIEETS During the period of its popularity the thibet was a much abused cloth. It was made in almost all conceivable qualities, and many of the fabrics were more like cheviots than thibets, owing to the tact that many manufacturers WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 137 were tempted to make a thibet cloth, and as they were not experienced in such materials they used too coarse wools and shoddies, the consequence being that their cloths were not felted and gave a raw and thready appear- ance — a "raw cloth" with a finish even more "raw," and any garment made up from such a fabric could not be kept clean. It seemed as though it had a strong affinity for all the dust and lint in its vicinity, which stuck to it like a burr, and resisted all efforts to brush it off, for which reason it soon lost its popularity, as hardly anyone would buy a second suit of thibet cloth. A properly-constructed thibet, having the right quality of stock and fin- ished correctly, will not show the above defects, but can be kept as free from dust and lint as a iJne undressed worsted. The writer lias seen criti- cal buyers testing thibet cloths by crushing a quarter of a yard in their hands and then throwing it on the floor, giving it all possible opportunity to get covered with dust and lint, then shaking the sample to see how much of the dirt still remained sticking to it. The fabric which emerged in the cleanest state after such treatment was usually adopted as a standard of finish. In the quality of stock used and in the manufacturing processes it is very similar to a melton cloth in that it requires a good felting wool that will felt down into the bottom of the cloth and make a smooth, soft face. Let the wool or the shoddy get the least trifle coarse and it will "hair up" on the face instead of felting down, and the result is more like a cheviot or a mongrel cloth, and it was these mongrel cloths that spoiled the trade in thibets. A thibet cloth requires considerable fulling both in lengtli and width, but care should be taken that it does not become too solid and boardy, as the finished cloth should handle "clothy" but without any "bone" to it. It should also show an indistinct twill effect, or, as it is called in Eng- land, a "Blind Twill," meaning indistinct like an undressed worsted. In this it is dissimilar to the melton cloth, which should not show any twill or weave effect. Hence the weaves used in meltons are those which produce a smooth, plain face, while the ones usually selected for a thibet are those which show an indistinct twill, as previously noted. It is true that some light-weight thibets are made in a plain weave, but they are made so with a view of cheapness, as larger yarns can be used and consequently more shoddy and fewer picks per inch, thus yielding a larger production with decreased overhead expenses. All-wool goods of this fabric, that is commercially all wool, require to be laid wide in the loom, usually for shoddy mixtures 80 to 84 inches wide in the reed, while the cotton carded mixtures are laid narrower, according to the proportion of cotton in the mixture. It requires considerable experi- ence in fulling to know just how wide to lay such goods, as everyone knows that there are no fulling properties in cotton, and it laid too wide and the finisher attempts to force the fulling in order to get the pieces up to the required width the result may be disappointing, as the fabric will handle stiff and boardy. The width for setting cotton mixtures in the reed is large- ly a matter of experiment, as it is hardly possible to determine beforehand the fulling properties of the shoddies, and then again the amount of twist in the yarns is a great factor in fulling. In former articles on similar heavy fulled cloths we have mentioned that it is necessary to use a good heavy-bodied soap in the fulling, having suffi- cient free alkali to overcome any acid that may be left in the slioddy stock through lack of proper care in neutralizing. The soap must also be strong enough to saponify the oils used in oiling the stock at the picker room, for unless there is a thorough saponification of all grease or oil in the goods 138 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY there cannot be proper fulling and felting of the cloth. In addition to all the above, it is desirable to avoid any- Extreme Heat during the fulling process, because if the goods become too warm they will shrink quickly without getting the necessary felting. A temperature that is just warm to the hand is about right, and the moisture — soap solution — should be so that when you take a part of the cloth and wring it hard in your hands the soap solution will show up on the surface of the cloth. When the fulling is completed, time should be given for a gradual cool- ing of the fabric, and in as open a state as possible, because if allowed to lie in a heaped condition between the fulling and the scouring there is dan- ger, especially in warm weather, of a slight degree of formulation, which should be avoided. Warm water should always be used at first when wash- ing off the fulling soap and dirt, which is now in a loose condition, and a good rinsing with warm water will free the goods very quickly. It will be necessary to give them another soaping, and if clean the suds will show up white and the soap foam will almost fill up the washer bowl. After this sec- ond soap bath is rinsed off it is a good plan to use a few pails of a solution of monohydrate soda standing 2% per cent Twaddell, or carbonated am- monia solution. Some finishers prefer to use a few quarts of aqua ammonia, as it is easier to handle. One alkali is as good as another, and a finisher can use whichever he finds the most convenient. The object in using this alkali solution is to raise and emulsify any residue of soap not washed out in the previous rinsing, and insure the goods being thoroughly clean. Wash off this alkali with warm water, and use cold water for the final rinsing, which will set or solidify the cloth. Carbonizing. This process is for the purpose of destroying all vegetable or other for- eign matter in the goods, which if left in the cloth would show up as "specks" and necessitate the tedious process of specking by hand, that is, picking out every little sptck or ioreign n attfr by Uie up-- i ■ h i'vj i'-iis which are made like sharp-pointed tweezers. This is a slov,- and expensive process, but by the use of chemicals in the soaking tank and the necessary heat in the carbonizing machine all vegetable and foreign matter is com- pletely destroyed. The soaking tank should be lined with lead, the hydro extractor basket made of copper, and all metal parts both inside and nut- side of the extractor sheet should be coated with paraffine or shellac, other- wise the carbonizing acid would soon destroy the iron. The operative should be supplied with rubber gloves and apron, as the acid 'eats its way into almost everything with which it comes in contact, and should be handled with care. The acid or wet process is usually used in carbonizing piece goods. A bath is made up in the soiking tank with water and sulplmric acid to test about iVo degrees B.. and the goods are allowed to remain in the tank until thoroughly saturated. They are then put through squeeze rolls, the liquor running back into the tank, then ex- tracted and run through the baking or carbonizing machine at 200 degrees Fahrenheit, which effectually destroys all burrs and foreign matter. Many mills do not have a baking machine, but hang the goods up in a baking room, which is heated to the necessary temperature. After baking, the goods should be run in a dry fulling mill, which will break and pulverize all the vegetable matter into a fine dust. Dyeing. After dyeing to shade and given a good rinsing the goods should be run in a solution of Fuller's earth. This is a peculiar kind of clay which has been used for many years in the finishing of fine woolens and worsteds. It WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 139 has great cleansing properties and has a softening action on woolen goods. It is used in nearly all fine piece goods mills to remove all traces of loose dyestufts, and prevents "cv cli " ;■ or s ■ uttiiiP"." wiich is freq entlv found in the cheaper grades of piece-dyed fabrics. It is cheaper to use and much superior to soap, as it will not mat or felt the fine nap the way that soap Is very apt to do. There are many finishers to-day who have never used this earth, and therefore know nothing of its softening and cleansing properties, but it is much appreciated by all who have ever used it, especially the refined ar- ticle, which is much preferable to the crude earth. No one should attempt to use more ot the earth than the water will hold in suspension without fre- quent stirring. A good proportion to use is two pailtuls of the refined earth to a barrelful of water, and allow six pails of this solution to four pieces ot goods, run from 20 to 3i) minutes and then rinse off in cold water. After being extracted the pieces should be rolled up on a roll under heavy pressure and allowed to stand for at least 24 hours. This "feeds" the cloth, giving it a more mellow handle. Regarding Moisture in the Wool, whether after scouring in the raw state or after being made up into cloth, Is a process that is not given sufficient attention in the average mill, but every- one who has given any consideration to the subject knows that wool after being subjected to the action ot alkalies and the heat in drying should be stored in a moist, cool room for a few days to allow it to regain its normal condition before being put through the picker. Such wool will card better and spin to finer counts with less manufacturing waste than similar wools not so conditioned. Most mill agents and treasurers are so anxious to get the goods finished up and into the market that they will not listen to any suggestions of letting goods lie for a day extra on the rolls. It is "push and La.-s out for 12-oz. all-wool thibet: 2,560 ends; lOM: — 3 reed = SIM;" inside listing + IVi" for listing = 83" over all. W^arp yarn 4^,4 run, left twist. Filling ^'arn 5 run. right twist. V\'eave 3 Itarness. twill to rigirt. 4 piclts. C.-VI.CUI..\TIONS. 2.560 ends 4^4 run = 5.40 oz. + S% = 6.S3 oz. 83" X 40 picks 5 run = 6.64 oz. + 8% = 7.17 oz. Loom weight 13.00 oz. Finished weight 12 oz. Fulled to hold S% In length. 13 oz. yarn + 10% manufacturing waste ^ 14 M; oz. of stock at picker. 141/2 oz. stock 60c. per lb = % .4406 Plus S% shrinkage in length = .0355 Cost of stock $ .4761 Manufacturing cost and charges: 2-loom %york = .2600 Plus 8% = .0208 Mill cost J .7569 Layout for l^-oz. cotton mi.xture thibet: 2.240 ends: 9 — 3 = 83". i-lsting to be taken out of warp. 30 picks. Warp y.arn 3^2 run. left twist. Filling yarn 3 :?4 run. right twist, spun soft. Wea\'e 3 harness, twill to right. CALCULATIONS. 2.2 40 ends 3% run = 6.40 oz. ,S3" X 30 X 3 94 run = 6.64 oz. 13.04 oz. Plus 107 oz- -f 10% waste = l:i.l7 oz. 15 picks. <'•'' ?J12 per lb = $ .8519 CALCULATIOX-S. Manufacturing, 1 r, picks = -1725 896 ends (3.000 yds. per lb.) = 4.78 Net mill cost $10244 "''■ '^^ "lixOS.'s " ''■"°''' ^°'"' h'"n«»S' straight draw. 1.1 picks = = 6.24 oz. Plain weave. 3.000-i-16 Tvogm weight 10.95 oz. n'42 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY mmmm pencil stripes The popular preference for through and through cloths is largely due to the fact that when fabrics for the tall season were much heavier than are worn at present, it was custom. ■- lo ii akL^ the ta-k uDd luce of wor- sted, with a stuffing pick of less valuable material for the extra weight. As buyers became more versed in the intricacies o£ cloth construction, the desire for fabrics composed entirely of the more expensive materials be- came more prevalent, with the consequent result that they demanded a cloth having the back and face of similar construction, or as they are commonly termed, "through and through" cloths. The impression given the layman by many dealers in former times was that the cloths so constructed were ot foreign manufacture, and therefore superior to fabrics turned out by any domestic mills. The injury done to the American manufacturer by such shortsighted policy on the part of the clothing dealer and tailor has been incalculable, and it has taken much effort and many years to correct the false impression given the public by stories of this liind, circulated by those who certainly should have known better. As a matter of fact, a very large percentage of the "foreign" goods handled by merchant tailors and high-class clothiers is the Product of Domestic Looms, the nearest approach to a sea voyage that the greater portion of them have ever had being the one-night trip on the Sound steamer, or the "voyage" across the North river. The radical decrease of weight during recent years, in both spring and fall fabrics, has resulted in many ot the cloths being offered in single cloth construction. To the lay mind this term may have little significance, but to one at all conversant with fabrics and their man- ufacture, it indicates that there is but one system of warp and filling, the back and face of the cloth being identical, except that the twill on the back is the reverse of that on the face of the goods, and in some cases the pattern is not as clear, owing to various causes inherent to construction and manufacturing details. In order to obtain the weight desired for fall fabrics in single cloth, it is customary to use much heavier yarns than would be necessary were the double cloth construction used, and, as a result ot so doing, the texture of the cloth is materiallv reduced with a consequent increase in the size of the twill. The Peculiar Feature of the fabric here discussed is the fact that while it has all the earmarks of a single cloth, save one. It is made with two systems of warp with a filling common to both. The pattern on face and back is identical with the twill on one side the reverse of the other, but with an apparently much higher texture than would be expected in a single ciotb. This seeming paradox is the result of the weave used, the three-liarness face and back, which is somewhat unusual, in connection with the com- paratively heavy yarns used in the manufacture of this particular cloth. As a general thing, the three-harness weave is used in connection with fine yarns of good quality and in fabrics of relatively high texture, resulting in a cloth with an extremely fine smooth face, and usually developed in a line of nice colorings in neat effects. The fabric under discussion is made from rather heavy yarns of not particu'arlv good grade: the stock used being apparently about a three-eighths blood from some of the bright fleeces, probably a Missouri, and spun to 2-24s both warn and filling. In this par- ticular cloth both yarns are spun on the Bradford system. As the fabric is "unfinished." an effect which possibly would be superior in anpearance, though an inferior cloth would result, might be obtained by the use of a single filling spun on the French system. By so doing it would WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 143 be possible tn make a cloth wiili a slightly improved handle, but the strength would not be equal to that of a cloth made from two-ply yarns in both warp and hlling. In many mills it is the custom to use single yarns for filling in a large proportion of their product, chiefly because of the saving in spinning expense of the relatively large single yarn, over that of producing two threads of practically half the weight, which must be doubled and twisted to form the finished thread. This method is used both for the manufacture of light and heavy weights in piece-dyed cloths, but is not as commonly employed in the production of fancies, as this would necessitate the use of either stock-dyed or slub-dyed yarns, a more expensive mode of operation than the ordinary skein dyeing. One of the principal factors in deciding the type of fabrics to be made at any time is the class of styles which is likely to prove popular. This will be readily understood by those at all conversant with manufacturing, as it is manifestly impossible to attain the desired end if the texture of the fabric is not suitable for the pattern it is desired to produce. It is essential that the styler should have a certain amount of knowledge regarding fab- rics if his work is to be of the highest type, though it is not necessary that he should be a designer or Expert on Fabric Construction. He must have a sufficient idea of fabrics and styles, however, to decide as to which particular fabric is best adapted to show up any of the styles he wishes to have made. Unless he is possessed of this knowledge, it is necessary for him to rely entirely upon the ability of the designer, who oftentimes is not in sufficiently close touch with the market to be able to form an accurate idea as to what is best suited to the needs of the buyer. The advantage held over his competitors by a styler who has had some technical training is much more apparent in a season when business is limited in volume, for in such a season he is able to develop fabrics which will secure a fair volume of orders, while his business rivals are forced to rely on the judgment of one not in touch with conditions and therefore not in position to construct cloths which will appeal to the buyer. The Peculiar Advantage of using the construction here described for the present season lies in the fact that by so doing it Is possible to produce a perfect pencil stripe by using a single light-colored thread in the warp and still avoid the stitchy appearance common to most cloths so constructed. The warp is dressed in such a manner that when the light color is lowered, a similar colored pick of filling covers it. forming a cnntinui ;is line of c-lor witliont a bre k. In a similar manner a stripe is formed on the back of the fabric, giving it the appearance of a single cloth, of a relatively higher texture. The advantage of using the three-harness weave instead of the ordinary tour-harness even twill will be patent to anyone familiar with clotii construction. It gives a much Finer Appearing Face without increasing the number of picks per inch, thereby allowing a greater production per loom than would be possible if the four-harness twill were used with the same number of twills per inch. There are many styles capable of development In this weave and construction, though it is not particularly well adapted for making checks. There is a wide range of styles which might be developed to advantage in this cloth and which should prove to be good dividend producers. Contrary to the usual experience with three-harness twills, that here described should show a very satisfactory production from the loom, with practically no increase in mending expense over fabrics made in the com- mon twill weave. The yarns used should be made from well-grown wools 144 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY of good luster and staple, which have been well scoured with proper de- tergents and soft water. It may appear to some readers that these are unimportant trifles, but, nevertheless, it is attention to these trifles that ultimately results in perfection. It may seem a detail not worth mentioning to say that the bath used in scouring the wool should never be above 120 degrees Fahrenheit, but should excessive heat be used in this process It will have an effect on the fibre which no amount of after-treatment will rectify. The same statement may truthfully be made relative to the purity of the materials used as detergents on the raw stock or the goods in the finishing room. It is too often the case that processes which Have an Important Bearing on finished results are left in charge of unskilled help, who have no idea of the harm that may result from inattention to these apparent trifles, with the result that the finished product is inferior, and no one is able to defi- nitely locate the process that is primarily at fault. In many cases it has been traced back to the very first process through which the stock passed on its way to be manufactured into yarn. The physical structure of the fibre itself may be so injured by improper treatment as to render It in- capable of being spun to as fine counts as the grade and length of staple would ordinarily warrant. In the dressing of the warp it will be unneces- sary to use size, as the warp yarns are of such size and strength to weave nicely without such treatment. If there are piece-dyed fabrics to be made in the mill it would be perfectly feasible to operate on the two-loom sys- tem, giving each weaver one white warp and one fancy. The burlings must be carefully attended to, all knots raised and left for the shear to remove. Should this be done by the burlers. the knots must be well raised and the ends left long enough to prevent their shrinking back in scouring sufficient to make the defect known as pinholes. Yarns Well Inspected. The sewers should have but little work on goods of this class it the yarns have been well inspected and all slugs removed before they were put into warps or wound for filling. Goods of this character may be fulled in the grease, as they contain nothing that should injure the appearance of the light colors. The length of time required to obtain the desired amount of nap will vary somewhat with conditions and must, in a large measure, be left to the judgment of the finisher. Fulling should not be carried on long enough to burst the threads, however, as it will materially detract from the appearance of the finished fabric. Probably 30 to 40 minutes in the fulling mill will be found ample for the fabric under discussion. The goods should be immediately transferred to the washer where every particle of dirt and soap should be removed. Inasmuch as worsted goods are comparatively free from impurities, they should not require the use of additional soap, that used in fulling retaining sufficient vitality and detergent properties to thor- oughly cleanse the pieces. Do not extract the pieces too thoroughly. This is a precaution that may meet with disapproval in some quarters, but an experience of many years has proven, to the writer's satisfaction at least, that goods too well extracted do not handle as well when finished, as iden- tical cloths which contain slightly more moisture when run into the drying machine. Here, too, we may differ from the practice of some finishers in Advocating Slow Drying, with a relatively low temperature. It will be found that goods treated in this manner will have a perceptibly better handle than would be the case were they subjected to greater heat in drying. In fact, the superior quality of goods dried in the open air is not nearly as much due to that fact, of Itself, as it is to the slow drying which this method involves. When dry, the goods should have a few runs on the brush and are then ready for the shear. The shearing of fabrics such as here described con- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 145 sists simply in removing the long fibres and evening up the nap, after which the goods should have another run on the brush before pressing. If the finishing room equipment is complete, it should include a dewing machine, and a run over this should precede pressing. It this is not feasible, a light steaming before entering the press is advised. After pressing and a final inspection the goods are ready for rolling up for shipment. LAYOUT. ' ' '^"^ .3.024 ends: 11 reed. 4 per dent - IVa" for listing — 70. :j" over a 4S plrks. DRESSED. 2/114 black 2/24 60% mixture 1 2/24 black . . . 2/24 mixture C.-^LCULATIONS 2,016 ends 2/24 black = 4.8 oz. + 10% take-up l.OOS ends 2/24 mixture — 2.4 02 + 10% take-up 32X70.2 32 pks. 2/24 blk. = 24 xr.60^2-^16 1CX70.2 16 pks. 2/24 mix. 24 X560H Loom weight 10 .68 oz. hla( .k + 10%, waste ^ 11.9 — 68.7" -1- oz. lif 7 6c- pe r lb $ .565 11. 5. 35 oz. mlxture -1- % waste = 1 3 1 2 M 5.6 3 oz. fui Cost of anuf^icturir Net mill S4c. stork '^4 Stock coflt . $ 461 375 Net mill cost J S3fi WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 223 forated roller and forcing steam through the piece. The goods are now ready for drying and tentering, the usual method being to place them on a chain dryer, which tenters and dries in one operation. The pieces should now be inspected, steam brushed and are ready for market, no pressing be- ing necessary, as it is desired to have the nap stand up similar to a pile fabric. LAYOUT. 3.360 ends; reed 12 — 4 = 70" + H4" for listing = 71ii" over all. 60 picks CALCULATIONS. Warp: 3,360 ends 1/30 worsted = 3.2 oz. + 5% take-up = 3.36 oz. 60 X 71.5 60 picks 6 run = = 7.16 oz. 600 10.51 oz. Stock mixture: 50% fine Texas (ffl 52o = $ .26 50% silk © 66c = .28 $ .54 The above described fabric is a plain-faced cloth and a popular type for the present season. There are many variations and styles of these goods shown in striped effects produced by the introduction of silk threads at in- tervals so interlaced with the filling as to form a distinct cut or stripe on the face, as a result of there being no nap at the points where the warp Is composed of silk threads. Many of these striped fabrics have no silk in the filling mixture, are woven in the grey and cross-dyed with dyestuffs which do not color the silk, forming stripes of a contrasting color with the ground. We present herewith a layout for a fabric of this type of construction: LAYOUT. COST. 4,200 ends; reed 10 — 6 = 70" + IMs" for 2.04 oz. 1/30 worsted -I- 5%, waste listing = 71.6" over all. = 3,0.^7 oz. (a! SOc. per lb ^ $ .154 60 picks. ,42 oz. 60/2 silk -|- 5%, waste = .441 CALCULATIONS. oz. ® $3.40 per lb = .094 2.940 ends 1/30 worsted = 2.8 oz. 'If' °2- <> run "I- 15 % waste = 8.41 -1-6% take-up = 2.9 4 oz. °'- '9 5 4c. per lb = .2 84 1.260 ends 60/2 silk = .4 oz. -I- 6% talce-up = .42 oz. Stock cost % .532 Manufacturing. 60 picks = .376 3.36 oz. 60 X 71.5 ^'^^ ^^^" '^^^^ ^ ■'^^^ 60 pici^s 6 run = ^= 7.15 oz. 600 Loom weight .... A very much superior type of duvetyn is that made from two-ply yarns in both warp and filling. An example of a fabric so constructed is offered in one of the best Fifth avenue stores at $5.50 per yard, forty-seven inches In width. In another department of the same house is found a duvetyn made entirely of silk at $6.50 per yard in forty-three inch goods. This is a direct importation and is by far the best example of this type of fabric yet seen. The warp of the part woolen cloth is spun from fine, long-staple wool, such as a fine territory, and the filling is composed of fifty per cent fine wool blended with fifty per cent silk waste spun to eight run slack twist, twisted to the left, then doubled with six turns per inch to the right, making the equivalent of a four-run filling. A fabric of this construction should be a much better type for the mill from a production standpoint than those first described. The superior weaving qualities of a two-ply warp made from fine wool is not to be questioned, and sliould reduce the overhead charges some- what. The process of manufacture is not materially different from that tor the less expensive types described above, nor is the difference in the finish- ed fabric so markedly apparent to anyone not familiar with fabrics. The 224 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY greater intrinsic value of the latter type of construction will be readily rec- ognized by the trained buyer, and will shortly be demonstrated to the wearer by the rapidity with which the poorer material becomes shabby and the gar- ment made therefrom shapeless. In no class of merchandise is it more read- ily proven that the best is ultimately the cheapest. LAYOUT. 3.024 ends; reed 13i,i — 4 = 5C" listing = 571.2" over ail. + IV2" oz. = 3. 78 = 6.326 tor oz. 02. COST. 3.7S oz. + 5% waste = 3.98 oz. ® 02. $ 239 44 picks. 6.325 02. + 15% waste = 7.44 CALCUIj.\TIONS. ;= $ RIO 4- 5 7c .376 44 X 57.5 $ .966 400 S liarness straight draw. t mnaDmaaama g DDBanaBDan M auaaamanam •- aaauaaaunu oz. .26 .28 Filling mi.xture: 507o fine wool @ 52c 509'o silk waste ® 56c ....= $ $ .54 DOUBLE AND TWIST SUITINGS There are certain styles in men's wear which it is impossible to pro- duce by the use of worsted yarns, and which always appeal to those In search of something a little out of the ordinary. Among the fabrics of this type, the fine woolen made from high-grade wool in two-ply yarns Is a favorite with many of our best merchant tailors. It possesses many ad- vantages over the fine worsted cloth, in that it is susceptible of being Double and Twist Suiting. developed in rather bold designs without becoming glaring, the softness of the yarn blending the outlines of the pattern into an extremely har- monious whole. It retains its shape and fresh look longer, and after press- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 225 ing has the appearance of a new garment. For the best effect, the wools should be from well-grown, healthy fleeces with fair length of staple. In Scouring, especial care should be taken to prevent injury of the fibre by harsh alkalies or excessive heat of the scouring liquor. The drying of the stock should be accomplished by the natural or cold-air method, rather than resorting to artificial heat, as the goods manufactured from such stock will have a much softer handle when finished. Avoid excessive poling in the dye kettle by the use of level dyeing colors whenever ob- tainable, and, above all, do not boil longer than is absolutely necessary to get the shade and fasten the color properly. Stock may be injured to such an extent in the operation that it will be found impossible to use it for the purpose for which it was intended. The stock must be well opened and oiled in the picking, the cards in first- class order and set fairly close. For work of this character the clothing should be set with fine wire on all the cards of the set. The first breaker should have wire not coarser than No. 30, with No. 32, or better yet. No. 34 for the second breaker and finisher. With wire of these sizes in good condition there will be no difficulty In producing a thread that will be as nearly perfect as can be obtained. The roving should weigh three run for six-run yarn. For the slack twist thread use two more holes of twist than tor filling yarns of corresponding size. The twisting may be done on a mule or on the ordinary twisting frame as may be the more convenient method. The twist should not exceed eight per inch for trousering cloths or six turns per inch for suitings. The warps may be dressed on a dry frame, no size being necessary for yarns of this quality and size. The expense of finishing goods of this description will be less than for the ordinary single yarn cloth, owing to the superior strength of the two- ply thread. The loom production should reach 85 per cent of the possible capacity, materially reducing the weave room expense per yard. The burl- ing should be done over a sloping table, perfectly smooth, and preferably covered with a sheet of tin or zinc. The hard, smooth surface presented by the metal enables the burler to detect the knots and slugs or bits of foreign matter requiring removal much more easily than can be done on the uneven surface of the ordinary wooden bench. Every thread out, mispick or broken pick must be replaced by the sewers before the goods are sent to the wet finishing department. The Soap Must Be Free From Impurities of all kinds and evenly applied to all parts of the pieces, either by means of a soaping machine or by applying it to the pieces as they are in motion in the fulling mill. For goods with white warps, scouring before fulling may be advisable, but should not be necessary except in rare instances, and should not be resorted to unless absolutely necessary, as it requires more time, labor and material, increasing the cost of finishing to a considerable degree. If the stock has been properly handled in previous processes, full- ing in the grease will be found to give excellent results. For goods of this grade the soap should be a pure palm oil, made up with sufficient mild al- kali to cut the grease and hold it in suspension throughout the fulling op- eration. When the goods have been running ten minutes they should be tested to see if the soap is doing the work as it should. The piece may be given a twist between the hands, when, if the fulling is progressing as it should, the dirt and grease will ooze out with the dirty soapsuds, or the cloth may be held over the fingers and the thumb nail scraped up against them, the impurities gushing out with the soap as in the other method. Do not full to the width required, but allow at least an inch for shrinkage in the further processes of finishing. _ 226 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY The washing should be started with half an hour's work in warm, not hot, water, which should float out the soap and dirt. Open the gates and rinse thoroughly, then float the goods with the cold water, rinse, drain and extract. There should be no occasion for adding soap in the washer, as with clean stock and pure materials, the soap used in the fulling should re- tain suflicient life to thoroughly cle-anse the goods in the washer. The drying is done on one of the various forms of artificially-heated ma- chines, which also tenters the goods to the desired width. After drying the pieces are back-burled, brushed and sheared. If necessary to clear the pat- tern, they may be given a light run on the gig, but the better plan would be to reed them a trifle narrower in the loom, and so lessen the fulling re- quired to bring them to width. After shearing, they should be brushed, sprayed and given a moderate pressing, face to the cylinder. After press- ing, give one run on the dewing machine, inspect and roll. LAYOUT. 2,400 ends; reed SV2 — 4 = listing = ll^h" over ail. 44 picks- CALCULATION.? 2,400 ends 6 run D. and T. = + 107o take-up 44 X 71.5 44 picks = 7 0" 4- IV2" tor 19.29 oz. + 15% per !b Manufacturing . COST. = 22.7 oz. B2c. 300 .= 8.S0 oz. . = 10.49 oz. 8 harness. Loom T\-eight . Finished weiglit 17 SERGES The manufacture of staples of any kind is one requiring the best of equipment, modern machinery and skilled help in every department, as com- petition is particularly keen in this branch of the trade. In order to become a factor in the trade, it is practically necessary to carry on the whole process of manufacture from wool to finished fabrics by the same concern. There are comparatively few mills that can go into the market for yarns, weave and finish the goods in competition with mills having their own spinning machinery. Serges, originally, were fabrics made from medium grades of wool spun to about 2-32s for light weights and having the twill clear and distinct. The fabric had a somewhat harsh touch with a distinct rasp when the fingers were rubbed contrary to the direction in which they passed through the press. The yarns used were invariably two-ply for both warp and filling. At present, the term serge covers nearly every fabric made in ""&iack or blue piece dye, from the seven-ounce "storm serge" for ladies' wear, made from comparatively low stock with single yarn for both warp and fill- ing, all along the line to fine twills made from high-count yarns of fine quality. One of the factors, which perhaps is the strongest in causing certain manufacturers to enter the staple business, is that while the margin of profit is smaller than on fancy goods, the market is more dependable. The element of design and coloring is practically eliminated, there is no great outlay for sample purposes before the market opens each season, and a major part of the harassing detail work which Is The Inevitable Consequence of making fancy goods is entirely removed. Another feature that makes a very strong appeal to the mill owner must not be lost sight of, which Is that at the end of the season there is no accumulation of small lots of yarns of various colors, a state of affairs which it is impossible to overcome entirely WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 227 even under the best of management in a fancy mill. One of the most im- portant features in the manufacture of serges is the dyeing, which is done in kettles holding from eight to twelve pieces. There is no department in the mill probably that receives so much unmerited criticism as the dye- house. In other departments it is possible to cover up many mistakes, but there is little chance for the dyer to evade responsibility for any that he may make, and many times it is his misfortune to have the errors of others at- tributed to him. It is very frequently the case that shady goods are laid at his door, when the real responsibility for them is in some previous process. It is very essential for both dyeing and finishing that there should be a plentiful supply of soft water, or if this is not obtainable, the hardness of the water must be overcome by chemical means, except in cases of tem- porary hardness, which is overcome by the simple expedient of boiling. In common with nearly all goods woven in the grey, serges are woven on the Double Loom System, one operative having charge of two looms, a practice which reduces the weaving cost very materially. The burling and mending are much easier than on colored goods and need no special mention. The washing is very important, as any trace of soap or dirt allowed to remain in the goods will inevitably cause trouble for the dyer. There is no doubt but that the ma- jority of cloudy goods are caused by insufficient washing or improper treat- ment in crabbing. When the goods are thoroughly clean, they may be ex- tracted and are then ready for the crab. Many finishers still prefer to use the old style two-hole "Yorkshire Crab," and undoubtedly get very good re- sults. The chief objection to its use is not that the results are poor, but that it is a slow process and requires considerable more labor than the more modern method. There are on tlie market Continuous Crabbing Machines which perform the work very efficiently and with a minimum of labor. If equipped with the two-hole crab, the pieces should be run on with the edges guided carefully so as to make a square-edged roll, run twenty minutes in hot water, then twenty minutes in cold. In the second bowl give the same treatment but continue it for thirty minutes. After rolling from the crab, the pieces should be carefully wound to protect them from dirt and dust. They are benefited by allowing them to remain on the rolls for twenty-four hours before unrolling for the dyehouse. The dyeing should present no un- usual difficulty if the goods are clean, but if they contain soap or grease, oi have been allowed to stand on one end since coming from the crabbing ma- chine. Instead of being turned end for end at intervals, shady goods will re- sult in spite of all the efforts of the dyer. Many dyers boil out the pieces in from 3 to 5 per cent of Glauber's salts as a precautionary measure, and find that it saves a great deal of trouble and worry. In the finishing process fol- lowing, the procedure is the same as for any clear-finished worsted fabric. LAYOUT. 3,840 ends; reed 16% — 4 = 62" -I- 1%" £or listing = ei^/i" over all. 64 picks. CALCULATIONS. 3,840 ends 2/40s hi blood = B,B oz. + 10% take-up = 6.06 oz, 64 picks 1/258 % blood = 4-60 oi. 8 iiarness stralglit draw. Loom weight 10. 6 5 oz. ^^ ■■HlJBBJ^ *-Obl. g I OByj:jBB 6.05 oz, -I- 5% waste = 5.35 oz, & t. bdcbbDGB 90c. per lb ^ t -357 4.6 oz. + 3% waste = 4.74 oz. © 70c. per lb = -207 Stock cost * -564 Manufacturing. 64 picks = .260 Mill cost $.824 228 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY The above layout is for a 56-inch cloth to finish 9% ounces, and is a good example of the light-weight serges made with two-ply warp and sin- gle filling. The more expensive cloths are made with two-ply yarns in both warp and weft, which give a more durable cloth certainly but one that usual- ly is not of as high a texture. Below we give the layout and full particulars for the manufacture of a heavy-weight serge 54 inches wide, finished weight 15% to 16 ounces. LAYOUT. COST. 3,360 ends; rfed 13 — 4 = G4 G" + 1.4" tor 17. 2S oz. -|- 5% waste = 18.14 oz. listing = 66" over all. W SOc. per lb = { .907 54 picks. Manufacturing. 54 picks ^ .275 CALCULATIONS. 3.360 ends 2/l'4 --=-- 8 oz. -t- 10% *^'" '^°-''* tl.lSi take-up = 8.80 oz. 54X66 54 picks 2/24 = ...= 8.48 oz. 24X560^2-^16 I,oom \^eight 17.28 oz. Draw on eight harnesses, straight draft and weave with common twill. While the name serge originally was applied to fabrics such as are describ- ed in the foregoing article, it is used to-day in speaking of many fabrics of similar construction which are cross drawn and have a design developed by this means and various arrangements of the chain. The foundation in all these is the four harness even twill, the most used of all the methods of interlacing warp and filling of which we are cognizant. WOOL PLUSH The popularity of napped cloths for ladies' coats is one of the features of the goods market the present fall season. One of the close competitors of the chinchilla and zibeline is the so-called wool plush. The fabric as it comes from the loom conveys no idea of the beauty of the finished product. In its unfinished state it resembles a piece of burlap more than a fabric suit- able for ladies' wear, but a skillful finisher, with proper equipment, is able to transform the rough, spongy fabric into a thing of beauty. The colorings most favored in these cloths are rose, green and royal blue, although a va- riety of other shades are shown as well. The fabrication of the wool plush requires no special skill, and their manufacture is not at all difficult. The most important feature in their construction is the selection of the right stock for the filling. Designers and superintendents, whose entire ex- perience has been in mills making fine cassimeres and overcoatings, are somewhat at a loss when the selling agent places a fabric of this character before them. In these times of strenuous competition on the ordinary fab- rics, the ability to produce salable novelties is a considerable asset for any concern. Many mills owe their continued success to their versatility in fabri- cation and ability to produce the right thing at the moment when it is in greatest demand. Cloths of a novel character command a much greater price in the market than those of more intrinsic value but of ordinary style. The most successful of our mills are those which are able to point the way rather than those who are content to follow. One of the most interesting WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 22S features of the fabric here described is the extremely low texture used to develop such a thick nap. The warp is entirely of cotton, thirty ends per inch, the weave a broken four-harness filling satin with twenty-four picks of a coa' ' , woolen thread forming the greater part of the clotli. Manufacturing costr are relatively low, as a Larger Number of Looms can be operated per set of cards than is possible when both warp and filling are of carded yarns. To produce goods of this type to the best advantage, the mules should be ol wide gauge, capable of using a bobbin of more than ordinary lengtli, so that the operation of doffing may not hinder tlie yarn pro- duction. A copping machine should be a part of the equipment, as the cost of putting the yarn in cop form will be more than offset by tlie greater pro- duction In the weave room, owing to the decreased stoppage of the loom for shuttle changing. Burling and sewing are an almost negligible item in the finishing cost of fabrics of this kind. The warp should run -with practically no breakage from morning until night, and due care on the part of the weav- er will eliminate the necessity for sewing in broken picks. The process requiring the greatest care will in most cases prove to be the carding. If the equipment is fitted for the manufacture of fine yarns, a few changes may be found necessary. In the production of heavy yarns from the stock required to produce the desired effect it will often be found difficult to make a side drawing that will carry from card to card without breaking or even to produce the drawing, as the weight of tlie stock will fre- quently break down the web under the doffer comb. This is easily overcome by placing a cone-shaped roll the full width of the doffer to support the stock. The cone may be driven from a convenient shaft by means of a belt or piece of spindle banding, with a surface speed approximately that of the doffer. In place of the Overhead Carriers in common use with the Apperly feed, a "creeper" may be substituted which will not strain the drawing. The tube for twisting the drawing should have a large aperture and sufficient length to support the drawing directly after it leaves the doffer roll. The condenser aprons should be set with a fairlj coarse gauge, excessive rubbing having a tendency to form twits. The rov- ing must be made less than half draft, usually two-thirds will give the best results and form a round, plump thread. The finishing machinery required is that usually found in a fancy casslmere mill, with the addition of a wet gig. The fulling is performed as usual with the goods tacked face inside, then a thorough washing to remove all the dirt and soap, otherwise it will be found extremely difficult to raise the nap nicely, the soap or dirt remain- ing in the pieces having an effect similar to paste or glue, binding the fibres together In a compact mass. While the goods are still wet, place them on the rolling machine to remove all wrinkles and allow them to stand over night on the rolls If possible. An Important adjunct to the wet gig is a supply of pure, soft water. The nap may be raised much more easily while the fibres are rendered soft and 230 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY pliable by the moisture with much less waste of stock. When the napping process is completed, the pieces are ready for the dyehouse, where they are colored in a kettle holding from six to twelve pieces. Do not bring to a boil too rapidly, but give ample time to secure penetration in order to avoid the "hungry" look sometimes seen in piece-dyed fabrics. During the dyeing, it is essential to have the pieces run in such a manner that the water is shed in the direction of the nap. Rinse thoroughly before removing from the kettle, place on the wet brush and have the nap well straightened, then roll on per- forated cylinders and blow steam through followed by cold water, change ends, repeat the steaming and cooling, allow to remain on the roll at least six hours, then dry to width. One run on the shear to remove the long fibre is sufficient, give a thorough steam brushing and the goods are ready for market, no pressing being required. LAYOUT. Warp : 1,680 ends; reed 6 — 4 = 70" + l^A" for listing = 71%" over aU. 2 4 picks. CALCUL.\TIOXS. l.eSO ends 2/16 cotton = 4 oz. + 10% take-up = 4.40Z. „, ^ ,i,ij iu /c L.I.VC ^24x715 ^ harness straight draw. 24 picks 7/10 run = ^ ....= 28.102. 7 ■DBODGBDnn Loom T\-eight 27.5 oz. , "BcSaH^SSB STOCK MIXTURE. 2 r'iSim'^l 609i B super ig' 40c = $.24 O ■ -^■--"^•^ iu% white noils & 35c = .14 K aiDabSOnDB . . fL, * .38 S COST. .1 4.4 oz. cotton @ 22c. per lb = $ .0605 23.1 02. uoolen + 20% waste = 28. 8S oz. Cip 3Sc. per ib = .6859 Cost of stock I .7464 Manufacturing, 24 picks = .2544 Net coat $1.0008 OUTING FLANNEL No fabric has yet been developed which is better adapted for the use its name indicates than the outing flannel. It is the ideal for tennis or vacation wear, whether at mountain or seashore, and is adapted for either men's wear or ladies' garments. The fabric is light and cool, drapes well and is susceptible of a great variety of uses. It should be made of fairly fine stock spun to five runs or finer in erder to secure the firmness desired without becoming bulky or clumsy in appearance. The wools should be carefully sorted and all detective locks thrown out. Especial care must be given in the scouring operation to avoid injuring the working qualities of the wool. The soap used should be a well-made potash compound free from caustic alkali and impurities of every kind. The scouring liquor in either bowl of the machine should never be warmer than 120 to 130 degrees, as extreme heat has an injurious effect on the fibre and may so Affect Its Spinning Qualities that it cannot be drawn to the desired size. During the picking opera- tion there should be an application of tour quarts of oil to each hundred pounds of wool. The use of a good red or lard oil is much preferable to the mineral oils, many of which are put out under the name of "Wool Oils." Mixtures in which one of the colors forms a very small WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 231 percentage should be run tlirougli the mixing picker at least three times in order to secure a thoroughly blended mix. The cards should be in tirst- class condition, the clothing not coarser than No. 28 wire on the first breaker and No. 30 on the second breaker and finisher. The setting must be suffi- ciently close to clear the stock, but not close enough to injure the fibre. If the stock has been properly selected and is well carded, there will be no trouble in spinning it at 40 per cent draft, which will insure a strong elastic thread that will weave perfectly. The weave employed in this fabric is the four-harness even twill, and as the goods are laid wide in the loom they will take the picks very easily, in fact the ease of the weave may lead to uneven goods, unless special care is taken to see that frictions on the beam are 'nicely adjusted, and that the take-up is in good order. With good yarn for warp and filling, the goods should come from the loom in such condi- tion that the burling and sewing will not require much help, four girls should be able to take care of the production of 40 looms easily. Goods of this character are preferably Fulled in the Grease, and will require special care in this operation. Unless the fulling room is provided with a soaping machine it would be advisable to remove the stretch plates from the mills and in their place fit up a trough which will guide the cloth into the rolls nicely, having a slight flare toward the front. Instead of applying the soap cold, have it sufficiently warm to flow through the spout of a can similar to an ordinary sprinkler without the spray end. Provide suitable steps or small platform to enable the fuller to reach the top of the mill easily, and when the pieces are ready for work start the mill. Open the top of the mill and pour the soap on the pieces as they pass through the trough to the rolls, vibrating the spout of the can from side to side, so the soap will be well distributed. In an experience of many years, this method of soaping has never failed to give excellent results on light goods that frequently are hard to bring out perfect. All wool flannels will require but a short time to full, and as soon as they are up to width, should immediately be transferred to the washer. No additional soap should be necessary to cleanse the goods thoroughly. First they should have 20 minutes' work in warm water which should lather up in good shape and float out all the dirt and oil in the goods, if, and this cannot be too strongly emphasized, a good oil was used in the picker house, and Pure Soap in the fulling. There are many soaps on the market which appeal to the purchaser because of their low price, but in many cases they are much more expensive than a more costiy article. For fulling flannels no tallow soap should be used, as in most cases it is washed out with considerable difficulty. A pure palm oil soap free from impurities, with no trace of free caustic alkali is the best for fulling these fabrics. It is advisable to make a test of the soap occasionally to be sure that it is not loaded with various impurities that add weight but have no value as detergents. A small quan- tity may be dissolved In water, then treated with sulphuric acid. The soap is disintegrated by the acid, the heavy earthy impurities sink to the bottom of the solution, and the fatty portion floats on the top. It is well known that caustic alkali will entirely destroy the wool fibre if in sufficient quan- tity, and in smaller amounts has a very deleterious effect on the physical structure of the flbre, causing it to be tender and lose the soft handle so much desired. Its presence in the soap may readily be detected by placing a drop of phenolphthalein on the soap, when a pink color is developed if it contains free caustic alkali. Wash the soap liquor off with plenty of cold water and allow the goods to rinse until every trace of soap is eliml- 232 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY nated, then dry atout two inches wider than the finished width. After back burling they should be inspected before running into the shear. In Shearing Flannels the blade must be set off somewhat, as the finish desired is not close. The nap should be fairly thick and the raising brush in sufficiently good contact to lift the fibres into position for the blade to clip them off evenly. Before pressing the goods should have one or two runs on the steam brush which will put them in excellent condition for the press. If rolled on the press and allowed to cool off on the rolls before the final inspection, the goods will not only handle better, but will also retain the finish to a greater degree. COST. 11.61 oz. + 15% shrinkage = 13.35 oz. 13.35 oz. iw 52c. per lb ^ $ .434 :Manuf;iCturin^, 40 picks = .360 I.AYOUT. 2.800 ends; reed 10 — 4 = listing ^ 711,2" over all. 7 0" + l'!," for 4 picks. 2,800 ends 5 run = 5.6 1 % oz. + — 6 16 oz 711,2X40 5 25 I^oom weight 11.61 oz. Mill cost $ .794 8 harness, straight draw. fH.\iX. T ■■DQBBDG £ caaLGBaD ^ DGaaonaa '- aaaaaDDB SHEPHERD PLAIDS AND TARTANS The popularity of the various Scotch effects is very much in evidence in the dress goods market the present season, and a description of some of the best known patterns in these fabrics may not be untimely. The shepherd plaid, the best known of any of the tartans, is a simple black and white even check of different sizes. In men's wear the 4 x 4 is probably the size most in favor, while in women's wear the larger sizes predominate. The tartan plaids are varied in sizes and colors from the brillian* contrasts of the Royal Stuart to the dull blues and greens of some of the more lowly clans. There is a wide variety of tartans shown this season in both woo! and worsted goods, the type selected for analysis being a woolen fabric manufactured by one of our best known New England mills. The stock used is a B super wool, which can be purchased at prices from 34 cents for a grey suitable for the dark colors and 38 cents for a stock which will color into the lighter shades used. By a combination of these stocks it is pos- sible to make up a stock mixture at a very moderate price. The Texture of the Fabric is low, counting 38 ends per inch in the warp and 36 in the filling. The only secret in the manufacture of these goods is open to every- one, modern equipment and efficient management, a combination that is sure to give satisfactory results at any time. The carding and picking are in charge of an expert in the manufacture of yarns from low-grade wools, who is capable of getting the most possible yarn from a given amount of stock. The production of the mules is higher than that obtained in the average mill and of good quality, so that there is no loss of time in the weave room as a result of poor yarns. The finishing of goods of this char- acter is similar to the process used in the making of any ordinary cassi- mere. All goods are fulled in the grease with a good grade of palm oil soap, free from impurities of all kinds, built up to the required strength by use of a pure, mild alkali. From the fulling mills they are taken directly to the washer, where the grease and dirt are readily floated out in a bath WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 233 of pure warm water, which must be soft, if clean goods are to be obtained. The drying is done with a chain dryer in a moderate heat, tlie goods bacli burled, brushed and sheared. After shearing they are inspected over a perch and imperfections repaired if any are found. A run over the brush precedes the pressing, which is followed by a final examination before rolling up for shipment. L.^TOUT. Warp: :.160 ends: reed 8—4 = 67M," + 1%" J& 02.(8- .Ji.-c. per ip = '-"i for listing = G9" over all. Manulacturmg, 40 picks = -"o Filling: Mill cost $ .696 SG picks. SellinE .170 STOCK AVERAGE COST. 70% gre\' B super @ 34c = % .238 Profit .084 30% ordinary B super 38o = .104 $ .342 11 !li) oz. + 20 % waste 15 oz. @ 34. 2c. .ng, it per lb Mill IlinK cos qp Pr ofit . Selling prl ce . $ .321 .766 2,160 ends 4 run = 6.4 oz. + 10% take-up ^^ 5.94 oz. 36X69 36 picks 4>Sj run = = 6.02 oz. I.ooni \\'eight 11.96 oz. GABARDINE DRESS GOODS One of the much advertised new fabrics for dress goods purposes is the gabardine, which originally was used solely for the manufacture of outer garments, such as cloaks suitable for protection from the rain. In ancient times the term was applied to the garment itself and had no reference to the material from which it was made, but at the present time the name gabardine is used solely to denote the fabric, which is used for a variety of purposes. In the heavier weights it is commonly used to-day in the manu- facture of raincoats, and when so used is usually treated either by chemical means or mechanical applications, so as to render it both repellant and practically waterproof. The methods of waterproofing are many, and the end in view is accomplished in a variety of ways. Some of the goods are treated in the washer with various mineral salts after scouring, while a method pursued by other manufacturers is to Apply the Waterproofing Material in the form of a waxy mixture by means of friction of the cloth over a suitable receptacle filled with the substance used, as the goods enter the press. The action of the press, together with the heat present, distributes the proofing and causes it to thoroughly permeate the fibres and become to all intents and purposes an integral part of the cloth itself. It is odor- less, colorless and elastic, causing no perceptible difference in the appear- ance or handle of the goods, but will not permit of water passing through. It would naturally be supposed that such treatment would render the goods impervious to the passage of air, making the garments extremely uncom- fortable to wear, but such is not the case, and for this reason, fabrics so treated have to a great extent superseded the rubber-coated cloths hereto- fore so extensively used in the production of rainy-day garments. It is possible to treat fabrics made from cotton, wool, worsted or mohair so that ordinary suitings may be made waterproof, enabling one to dispense with an extra garment as protection against the inclemency of the weather, if it is so desired. The larger proportion of gabardines are made in the single cloth con- struction, though for wear in the colder weather there are fabrics produced 234 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY with two systems of warp, having a filling common to both and also true double cloths. The latter type of construction Is used almost entirely for the manufacture of fabrics with plain or single tone face, with fancy back, usually in the form of plaids, which give the appearance of a lining to the gar- ment. The manufacture of fabrics of either type requires no special machin- ery, nor is the waterproofing a process of any particular difEculty. The process of proofing after scouring can be carried on in the ordinary type of washing machine in common use in woolen and worsted finishing rooms, wliile the "dry" system of proofing requires a suitable receptacle for the proofing material, with means for placing in contact with the face of the goods as tliey pass toward the press cylinder. In the better grades, gabardines are made from two-ply yarns, botli in warp and filling, the less expensive cloths having two-ply warps and single filling. The type of fabric selected for analysis is nine ounces in weight and fifty-four inches wide inside the listing, intended for ladies' suitings. We have chosen a fabric selling at retail over the counter of our department stores at $2.50 per yard. This price May Seem Extremely High tor a fabric of the weight and texture here described, but it must be remem- bered that the retail price is of necessity high compared with the mill cost, owing largely to the very extravagant merchandise methods in vogue. This is more especially true of merchandise usually purchased by women. They require large, well lighted stores, wath ample show rooms, rest rooms, quick service and, in most instances, delivery of even the most insignificant purchases. This method of doing business entails on the merchant an enor- mous expense for rent, heat, light, and possibly the greatest of all for serv- ice. In this latter item is included the cost of maintaining an elaborate delivery equipment, by means of which milady may have a spool of silk delivered at her residence. All these items are a very material aggregate in the expense of conducting a mercantile business and add not a little to the cost of goods to the ultimate consumer. While it is possible for many mills to market their product for from 3 to 5 per cent, the cost of selling at retail in many instances is over 25 per cent, which, with a fair profit for the merchant, necessitates a considerable advance over the price at which the goods are purchased from the manufacturer. In order to manufacture piece-dyed gabardines at a fair profit it is almost imperative that the mill manufacture its own yarns. In these days of hard competition on staple and semi-staple cloths no item of saving should be neglected, profits are in the large turnover with expense of man- ufacture reduced to the lowest possible figure. The successful mill must eliminate, as far as possible, paying profits to other manufacturers by carry- ing on every process required to turn out the finished goods in its own plant. Another great advantage in so doing is the fact that many tedious waits for yarns may be avoided by a mill equipped to supply its own needs in this direction. The objection may be made that the expense of such an equip- ment is prohibitive to the small weavers, which may be very true, and it is also true that, as a general proposition, the small weaver should not attempt to manufacture goods which are generally regarded as the logical product of the large corporation. The opportunities for the smaller mill are varied and extensive enough without entering this field. For the fabric under discussion we shall need a Fine Territory Wool, which may be purchased in to-day's market at 20 to 21 cents, which, with the ordinary shrinkage, will cost 50 to 52 cents clean. This cost is the average for the whole fleece, and to this must be added sufficient to allow tor the lower value of the sorts rejected. The scouring of wools of this WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 235 grade should be done with the best detergents obtainable, tree from impuri- ties of all kinds and, above all, with no trace of tree caustic alkali. A test of the materials should be made frequently, so that no lot may be used with is not up to the standard of quality, not alone to check cost against value, but, more important than the question of cost, to see that they contain noth- ing which is harmful to the fibre itself. Soaps are possibly the most fre- quently adulterated materials purchased by the manufacturer and should be often subjected to tests for value and cleansing properties. Adulterants in common use are china clay, common salt, silicate of soda and resin; also an excess of moisture is frequently present. Tests for all these are so simple and well known that they need not be given in detail at this time. It is of the utmost importance that the detergents contain no free caustic alkali, the detection of which is simple and requires no apparatus whatever. A drop of phenolphthalein placed on the soap in question will immediately develop a pink color if free caustic alkali is present. The use of hard water and excessive heat are two things to be avoided in wool scouring, the first from the fact that it is practically impossible to scour wool by its use and the second because too high a temperature in the scour- ing bath has an injurious effect on the fibre, rendering it less capable of bein'g worked to advantage in subsequent processes. In many cases wool which should easily be spun to 40s or finer cannot be spun finer than 32s or 33s, because of bad handling in the scouring room. Instead of rinsing the stock, as is customary in scouring clothing wools, tlie last bowl should contain a Weak Scouring Liquor, which will act as a lubricant in the carding, and the stock should not be too thoroughly dried, as the slight moisture retained in the fibre will permit of more easily opening the stock in carding, produce less waste in the card- ing with a material reduction of the noils, as there will be a smaller num- ber of short broken fibres to be removed by the combs. By the use of well selected wools, properly treated, the percentage of noils made may be reduced to 12% per cent, or possibly less, a material reduction in the ulti- mate cost of the yarn, as the yarn cost is intimately associated with the quantity which may be spun from a given amount of wool. The inter- mediate operations, gilling, drawing, etc., usually present no difficulties, but on the roving frames there are opportunities for producing poor work that should be carefully avoided. The top rolls should be examined at frequent intervals and all defective rolls replaced with those that are perfect, so that imperfect yarns and slugs may not cause extra work in the finishing room. The filling, used single in the example, should have especially good care, as there is no opportunity for inspection of this, it being woven directly from the spinning bobbins in nearly every instance. Inspection of the warp yarns should be thorough and is best performed as the yarns are spooled, or rather run from one spool to another over a board painted black, In the case of yarns in the grey; In fact it will be conducive of better re- sults if yarns to be dyed are First Spooled and Inspected in this manner before putting into skeins. While it is the common practice to dress piece-dye fabrics of this character on dry frames and weave with- out sizing the warps, better results will be obtained if the warps are run through the slasher and given a slight sizing. To many this will appear as an unnecessary expense, but the consequent better production in the weave room with reduced expense of sewing will in most cases overbalance the cost of this operation. It is by such methods as these which tend to reduce the most expensive item in production cost, that is, hand labor, that man- ufacturing expenses are reduced to a minimum and the production materi- 236 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY ally increased. There are probably no mills making this type of fabric which do not operate on the two-loom system, and it is essential that the warps should be as nearly perfect as possible. Careful attention to details that are apparently unimportant are, therefore, required in order that the weaver may be able to give the greater part of his time to watching the filling and avoiding imperfections of various kinds. The fixer should see that every part of the loom is in perfect adjustment to do the best possible work shuttles smooth, reed straight, and all straps in good condition, with the stop motion in perfect working order. Under these conditions an 82-inch loom with 17-ounce shuttles may easily be operated at a speed of 120 picks per minute. After the cloth is taken from the loom it should be inspected imperfections marked and the yardage, with other necessary data, recorded on sheets provided for this purpose. The Burling Requires Care. All knots should be raised and broken ofi" with ends long enough to prevent drawing back during the finishing. In addition to performing the actual work of burling the operatives should mark every imperfection needing the attention of the sewers, which may have escaped the notice of the percher. The sewers must repair all threads out and mispicks. replace hard twist threads and reduce the slugs or sew in perfect yarns to replace them. All work of this nature should be done in the flannel, if possible, as there is much less liability of its showing in the finished fabrics than if made after the goods have been scoured. From the sewers the pieces are taken to the wet finishing room and should be scoured with a light neutral soap, either a palm oil or potash soap would do the work very nicely. A tallow soap is never advisable for worsted scouring, as it is not easily removed and may lead to serious trouble in the dyehouse. As there is comparatively little dirt or oil in the goods it will not be necessary to use a soap of much body or strongly fortified with alkali. In the majority of cases a mixture of two ounces of soap to a gallon of water with two to three ounces of urine substitute will cleanse the goods thoroughly. Unless the pieces are to lie some time before dyeing they need not be dried but taken at once to the continuous crab from which they will emerge thoroughly set and rolled tightly on wooden rolls, where they should remain at least 24 hours, the rolls being turned end for end at intervals of six or eight hours. If the goods are free from soap and dirt there should be no trouble in bringing out perfect goods free from shades either from end to end or side to center. Should there be any doubt in the mind of the dyer, it might be well to give them a preliminary boiling out in Glauber's salt. The kettle should not be overcrowded nor brought to a boil too rapidly. When brought to shade cool off, rinse, extract and dry. A run on the brush will put the pieces in condition for shearing, an operation requiring considerable care The shear itself must be in first-class condition in order to give the thread the finish desired. After shearing, the goods should be perched, and im perfections repaired that may be found, then brushed, dewed and pressed. L.VYOUT. COST. .'.1?n on^ls: refd 16X 5 = 64" + IV2" for B .".n ni. -L T,f„ wa.=ite « 6.71 oz. @ 'istinc = fi'i-," over all. '■'[•<■■ per lb = % .4026 00 pj,K's ''■'-< oz. + %% -i\-a.ste = 5,43 oz, f® i"'.\I,Cri.,4TI0N"S, Si'c. per lb = .2783 n K'll ends 2'IS ^ 6,09 oz + 5% , „»„ tike Tin = 6 39 oz * .6809 90 cdcksi's:,;,,,', ::;::::::::;:= 5:270^: Mannracturms,. 90 ricks = .4250 loom weight 11.66 oz, >'"'^t mill cost (1,1059 Finished v,elffht 10 oz. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 237 BEDFORD CORD The type of fabric known as Bedford cords are being sliown for tall iu a variety of constructions and a wide range of colors. It is some little time since these fabrics have been among the leaders in popular favor, and as they are selling well this season, it may be that an analysis of two of the best sellers will be acceptable to our readers. The lighter weights of these cloths are particularly well adapted for suitings and a slightly heavier cloth is made up into coats that are very attractive. The present season they are shown in solid colors as well as fancies, the most popular styles being de- veloped in a line of mixtures with Silk Decorations. The manufacture of these fabrics is not particularly difficult and can be undertaken by any mill having fancy looms with a sufficient number of harness. The finishing is the same as for the larger part of worsted dress goods and requires no special machinery of any kind. The warps may be made of either single or two-ply yarns, the filling in nearly every instance is single, woven from the cop or bobbin as it comes from the spinner, with- out rewinding, a considerable saving in time and labor. If single yarns are used for the warps, they must be dressed on a wet frame, and well sized, otherwise the weaving will be accomplished with a great deal of difficulty and consequent loss of production. It cannot be emphasized too strongly that success in the manufacture of dress goods or, in fact, of any fabric, is to a very large degree dependent upon the use of stock or yarns suitable for the production of the goods. This is particularly true in the manufactur- ing of cloths in which single yarn is used for warp. The yarn must be spun from long staple fine wools and given careful attention in every process or the results will be far from satisfactory. L.WOUT, ^^^^□^jQp.^jQ 3,Si)S end.s; 1 1: reed. 4 in dent = 62" + t^ □■□■■na^BBOB il'2" for listing = 63 V2" over all. S ■DBaiG«««Bn» <>'' plelta. K 5;s!S5!s:sgs calcul.^tions. ■^ !"!'■">:■■"■ 3.S6,? ends 1/26 = 4,25 oz. + 10% take-up ^ 4.670Z. 78X63% ,., 7S picks = ^ 4.33 oz. u 3 2 X 5 6 -i- 1 6 10 10 Loom weight 9.00 oz. ,' , " COST. ^ P oz. 4- »^^c lA-aste ^ 9.45 oz. (o) , ., ' 75c. per lb = $ .433 :i 3 Manufacturing: =^ .375 1 1 Mill cost S .808 Finished width 52". Finished weiglrt 8 oz. Some very pleasing variations from the plain fabric described above are obtained by the use of slub-dyed yarns instead cf the grey which was used for the piece-dyed cloth. The designer's skill in weave combination can also be called into play with some very effectiv results, tire tasteful blending of colors adding to the beauty of the finished fabric. There are several very pleasing effects of this cliaracter among the offerings for the new fall season. Several styles noticed particularly have threads of silk twist to bring out the pattern, while in some of the most attractive the decorative threads are of raw silk. Others are made witli the ground en- tirely composed of nicely blended mixtures or twists of contrasting colors. 238 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY Details are given below, for a novelty -with a plain warp, and three colors used in the filling, producing an odd spot effect in alternate ribs. LAYOUT. COST. 3,S6S ends; 16 reed, 4 in dent = 62" + 9 nz. + 5% waste = 9.45 oz. ® 86c. l'!." for listing = G3V»" over all. per lb = $ .B02 6? picks. Manufacturing = .425 CALCULATIONS. Mill cost $.927 3.S6.S ends l/:6 = 4.25 oz. + 10% take-UD = 4.67 oz. 78X65 1/2 78 picks 1/32 = = 4.33 oz. 3 2X560^-16 ■ Loom weight 9.00 oz. FILLING PATTERN. H ■■■■ ■ ■_■■ . ^ ■■■BLB ~ia ■ ■ _■■ .■_£ .■■ Another Example, showing a different weave combination with decorations of raw silk, is given in the layout below. In this style the ground weave is the eight-harness satin instead of the brochet used in the two previous fabrics. The warp Is a two-ply mixture thread, the filling single yarns of the mixture. The comparatively loose weave employed gives a cloth that is much softer than either of those preceding it. LAYOUT. COST. 4,500 ends; 14U reed. 5 in dent = 62" 4- -l'';< nz, + 5 per lb = $ .0510 70 picks. 4.1^ nz. 4- 5% waste = 4.39 02. ffl SI per lb = .2743 Finished width 62". 3.5.S oz. + t7o waste = 3.64 oz. ® Finished weisjht 7 nz, jile. per lb = .1820 CALCULATIONS. Stock cost , 600 ends 60/2 silk = .19 oz. + >ra n'ljfacturing, 7o' picks '! !!!!,'!! = ^4000 5% = .199 oz. 3,900 ends 2/56 worsted ^ 3.9? oz. ^.ww cost « Qn7t + 5% = 4.180OZ. '"^"^ 5 .9U7J 70X63% 70 picks 1/36 wstd. = 3.530 oz. 36X560^16 Loom weight 7.909 oz. DRESSED. 2/r,f, worsted. - ' — r WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 239 BEAVERS In various districts in England the fabric which we call beaver is sometimes designated as kersey, the two fabrics being very similar in many respects. and are therefore often classed as the same. In other districts they are known as a soft-finished kersey, which is the true description of a beaver cloth. Again in Scotland there is a beaver fabric which is altogether different from any of the above. The Scotch beaver is a soft, spongy cloth, something like a chinchilla in con- struction, well napped, and in place of the chinchilla finish it is cropped to show a fur-like finish. The nap is fairly long, the final napping being done without the use of the laying brush, and the nap stands up fiuffy and fur- like. In our markets the beaver cloth is generally understood to be almost the same as a kersey, but of a softer make, adaptable for ladies' cloakings, and it stands in the same relation in the cloaking trade as the kersey does in the men's wear overcoating market, and it may, therefore, be designated as a sister fabric to a kersey. There are two kinds of beavers, "hard backed," that is, the back is finished natural without any gigging, while the soft backed beaver is made with a qnality of stock which can be napped into a soft, fluffy back. Very often camel's hair is used in the backing, and when napped it gives a bulky, soft piece of cloth, witli a fine face similar to a kersey. It is usually dyed into fancy shades, such as tans, blues, browns, etc., suitable for the cloaking trade. There has been little or no demand for beavers for many years, the trade being mostly on rough-faced fabrics of a cheviot nature. The Processes in Manufacturing beavers are very similar to the manufacture of broadcloths and kerseys, and a flue, good felting wool for the face is absolutely necessary in order to get a desirable nap. The cloth is laid narrower in the loom, as it is not necessary to full so much in width and as less fulling is required in length, the cloth must come heavier from the loom than a kersey cloth, that is heavier in proportion to the finislied weight. These are the main points of difference, and the manufacturer must guide himself in making beavers by remembering that they are a soft-finished fabric, not hard like a kersey. The face yarns, both warp and filling, are spun fine, the average being 4-run warp and 4%-run filling, and in many fabrics it is even spun finer, but when the latter is the case there is danger of getting too thin a face, that is, the veneer of fine yarns is very thin, and unless great care is taken in the napping there is a possibility of getting the face soft and tender, which would render the cloth unfit for use in a serviceable garment. In all face- finished fabrics, such as broadcloths, kerseys and beavers, the finishing process plays a most important part, in fact, the finishing of such goods is the all-important part, and will either make or mar the goods. The fin- ishing process includes everytliing from the loom to the case. The cloth as it comes from the loom is totally unfit for use. It may be likened to a build- ing which has just passed out of the masons' or bricklayers' hands and is ready for the plasterers, carpenters and painters to beautify and complete. It is in a very imperfect condition, full of knots, broken threads, slubs grease, etc. The aim of the finisher is to remove all these imperfections, cleanse the cloth and restore the natural brightness and luster to the wool. A mere glance at the different wools used and tlie various fabrics made for both ladies' and gentlemen's wear will show that several processes are necessary to get the Various Finishes. In fact we may say that every variety of cloth has its own peculiar process of finishing which is best suited to give it the most effective ap- -40 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY pearance. There is one general point tliat must be noticed, wliioli is that in the making of cloth the quality and character of the wool has to be con- sidered in reference to the kind of finish wanted. Of course, we can finish a cloth in any way we may choose, but it we wish to obtain perfect goods this point must be kept in mind. For example, the wool suitable for a Scotch cheviot cloth, where little fulling is required, would be altogether unsuitable for a kersey or a melton, requiring a large amount of fulling. The rule then which regulates this is that cloths requiring a large amount of fulling should be made from fine wools possessing good felting properties, such as fine Ohio XX, fine Texas, Arizona and California wools, and in the foreign wools fine Saxony, Port Philip and other Australian wools, fine Natal or Cape, etc. Let us now take up briefly the preparatory processes of finishing, giving a brief outline, so that the reader who is not initiated into the mill business may obtain some idea of these processes. After the cloth is woven, it is passed over a "perch" in a strong light, and is carefully examined by an inspector, who marks all imperfections of yarns or flaws in weaving. A piece is always examined on both sides, first, on the face of the goods, and second, looking through the goods toward the window, when all weaving impertections are more easily seen and marked. Burling. This is really the first process in finishing. The cloth is placed upon a table, the top part of which can be raised or tilted to any desired angle, and the burlers carefully examine it for knots, slugs, loose ends, etc., by pass- ing their hands over the surface of the cloth, and all imperfections are re- moved by the use of burling irons. These are sharp-pointed blades, like tweezers, and by them the burlers draw out thick threads, knots and other imperfections of tlie yarn. It is very important at this stage tliat all such de- fects be removed, and especially so in broadcloths, kerseys and beavers, or other face-finished goods, because if any knots or bunches are left in the cloth and fulled in it will be impossible to remove them afterward without leaving a small pin hole. Some persons may think that the process of napping would cover up any knots, but the fact is that the napping and steaming make them show up stronger, and at this stage it is impossible to correct imperfect and care- less burling. Pieces are always burled twice, the back of the piece being done first, all knots being drawn through on the back and cut off, and thick and uneven threads taken out or reduced in thickness; that is, by the use of the burling iron part of the thick thread is carefully removed and part of it is left in the cloth. This may appear difficult, but by practice an ex- perienced burler can quickly reduce a heavy thread. After being burled twice, first on the back and then on the face, the piece is thrown over a perching roll, examined with the cloth toward a well-lighted window, and all remaining knots and imperfections are removed. Sewing or Mending. After the burling the pieces are "mended," that is, all broken threads are sewed in and any imperfections in the weave corrected so far as pos- sible previous to fulling, for after the goods are fulled it is hardly possible to sew in threads or repair imperfections. Such goods as beavers, kerseys, meltons and thibets do not require such care in the mending department as worsteds and other bare-finished goods, as the felting of the above-mention- ed materials serves to cover up slight imperfections in the weave, but even in these goods a warp thread broken out for some inches will show dam- age, and broken picks should also be sewed in and all floats and imperfec- tions of weave repaired. If a pick of filling or a warp thread is left out and WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 241 needs to be sewed in. the mender will first find out the method in which the warp and filling threads interlace with each other, which is done by picking out an inch or two of the yarn and noting the filling threads cross- ing with the warp yarns. This being correctly ascertained, a needle is threaded with the same yarn as that of which the cloth is woven, and the thread is sewed into the cloth, occupying the place of the broken thread, care being taken that it interlaces with the warp yarn in the same order as the other threads. If a thread is uneven and heavy, it is necessary to draw it out and introduce a thread of the proper size. This is done by fastening a length of the cor- rect size of yarn to the uneven or heavy thread, and as it is drawn out of the cloth it is constantly replaced by an end of the correct yarn. Some cloths are more Difficult to Repair than others. Worsted cloth made of fancy and complicated weaves and patterns is very difiicult to repair, and it requires the most expert menders to do such work. These cloths are generally handled twice in the mending department. The first process is called "mending in the grease," and is, as the name indicates, done previous to scouring. After being scoured, the goods are examined by an experienced and skillful mender, who marks all Imperfections not previously noted and mended, and the pieces are then sent to the "clean sewing" perches for the final mending. The change which the fulling effects in the appearance and handle of wool- en cloths is surprisingly great, and the causes which contribute to these results have given rise to many discussions. It is now the generally ac- cepted theory that the peculiar felting properties of woolen cloths are due primarily to the serratures which form the structure of the fllire. Wool be- ing the only fibre which shows this peculiar structure, and tlie number and sharpness of these serrations or scales vary in different classes of wools, it is worthy of note that the finest felting wools contain more of these scales per inch than wools which are coarser and do not felt so readily. Tbus fine Saxony wool may contain 2,700 to 3,000 scales per inch, while an inferior felting wool may only show 1,000 scales or even less per inch. The shrinking or felting nature of woolen goods is due also to the va- ried and innumerable ways in which the fibres are mixed, crossed and in- terlaced with each other in the yarns. The felting property of wools is also hastened by the application of soap and water, as by its action the outer ridges or scales of the wool fibre are freed from the natural oil or yolk, their serrated edges opened out, causing interlocking of the fibres, and fulling is made possible. The heat, which is generated by the fulling process also plays an important part. It is the combination of heat, moisture and mild alkali which opens the serrated scales of the fibre and knits them together into a close and compact mat or felt. Years ago the fulling was done entirely by the Fulling Stocks, which consisted of a trough-shaped bed, capable of holding several pieces of cloth, and suspended over this bed were two high hammers or mallets, weighing several hundred pounds each, and operated by a sort of trip ham- mer mechanism, which raised the mallets alternately, allowing them to drop by their own weight on the pieces of cloth lying in the bed of the machine. The force of the blow, combined with the sloping bottom of the bed, caused the cloth to turn over more or less at each blow of the mallet. Thus the po sition was changed all the time and the cloth received a natural fulling. The chief drawbacks to the use of the fulling stocks are the large amount of space necessary, the slowness of the fulling and the difficulty in regulating them so as to full a piece to a given length and width. 2 42 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY The fuUiug mill or machine has now almost entirely superseded the old-time stocks. It is based upon an entirely new principle, and is capable of fulling a much larger amount of cloth, and it also requires less space and power. A large machine will full from four to eight pieces of cloth at one time. The cloth is run into the mill, passing through a dividing or guide board over a roller, and through a narrow guide or throat, which de- livers it between flanged rollers heavily weighted by springs. These flanged rollers force the cloth into what is called the trap. This trap has a hinged cover which can be weighted according to the requirements of fulling. The fulling is effected by the flanged rollers forcing the cloth into the trap, the object of the latter being to hold the cloth back and not allow of its being delivered freely. The fulling is accomplished by the continual forcing of the cloth into the trap, and the effect is the same as the hammer of the fulling stock, but instead of repeated blows of the stocks, it is a constant and positive force, driving the cloth forward into the trap until it is forced out at the back end, and as the ends of the pieces are sewed together the operation is continuous. The piece can be fulled to any required width and length by regulating the weight on the cover of the trap. This machine is suitable for almost every kind of cloth, and is in- dispensable when a large amount of fulling is required, as in meltons, ker- seys, etc. There is considerable heat generated during the fulling process, and it is important to watch the Rise in Temperature closely, because if the goods get very hot it will tender the stock, and also cause the goods to full or shrink too rapidly, thus preventing the pro- duction of that close felted face so necessary in face-flnished goods. The temperature should not be allowed to exceed SO or 8.5 degrees, and the re- sults will be more satisfactory at a lower temperature, as in most classes of goods requiring a heavy felted face the longer time taken to full the goods the better felt will be obtained. The process must be continuous, that is, the shrinkage must be kept up continuously, slowly and surely, being knit together in one compact body, both warp and filling. Assuming now that the cloth is well scoured and freed from all soap, the next process in the finishing of the fabric we have under consideration is the napping. Ihe object in napping is to raise the fibres on the face of the goods to such an extent that the surface of the fabric will show one continuous covering of a soft, fur-like nap. This process was formerly done by hand and was known as "teaseling," the teasels being set in a frame- work, and the piece of cloth stretched over bars and kept tight by a ratchet and pawl. That process was slow and very unsatisfactory, as compared v,-ith present-day operations. The teasel gig was the first improvement, and it consisted of a large cylinder fitted with 24 slats, closely set with teasels, the product of a plant grown in various parts of England, Prance and in this country in New York state. This cylinder makes about 1.50 revolutions per minute and revolves in a contrary direction to that in which the cloth travels, and it thus gives a great power for raising the fibre on the surface of the cloth. The amount of contact the cloth has with the teasels can easilj' be regulated by means of movable rollers, which are regulated by pinion and rack gear. These are single acting, also double acting gigs, the latter giving four points of contact with the cloth as it passes around the cylinder. The wire gig or napper is the latest machine for raising the nap on cloth. It is constructed with a number of rollers covered with a bronze wire clothing very sharp, and so arranged with speed gears that as the cloth WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 243 passes around the cylinder, these rollers can be so operated that the felted surface is quickly napped and opened out it so desired, and by the mere change of a speed gear the wire-covered rollers can be made to take vigor- ous hold and nap a piece in less than half the time it vould take in a teasel gig. The usual process is to do the first napping on the wire napper, and finish off on the teasels. All Face Finished Goods, such as kerseys, broadcloths, beavers, doeskins, etc., are napped wet, but all other goods which are finished clear are napped dry, which causes the fibres to stand erect, ready for the process of shearing, while in the wet napping the fibres are laid flat on the surface of the cloth to form a con- tinuous nap or pile, which completely hides the weave of the cloth. This nap is then cropped by the shear, in order to level the nap, cutting off all long fibres and giving the fabric a close, velvet-like nap. The object of steaming is to impart a permanent luster to the cloth. This was formerly done by boiling the cloth for several hours in a tank of water, the cloth having been first tightly wound on a wooden roll, generally made of birch wood, as it was free from gum and resin. After the boiling it was plunged into a tank of cold water and laid there for several hours. Then it was rewound onto another roll, thus reversing the ends, and again boiled for several hours, when the cooling off was repeated again in cold water. The whole process usually took several days to complete. The modern method of steaming was explained in the article on "Broadcloths and Kerseys," and the process can be completed in about an hour, which shows a vast improvement in processes of manufacturing during the past fifty years. After the steaming comes the wet brushing, drying, shearing and pressing, as described in previous articles on similar goods. 4,^00 eiirl.';; 4 run warp, riffht twist. l^' rt-Pd. 4 in dent =- SO" inside listing for listing: = .S2" over all. FILLING. Face 4U run. left twist, spun soft. B;T'k 2 run. loft twist, spun soft. 2 picks face yarn; 1 pick backing. 60 picks per incli. CALCULATIONS. 4.S0O ends. 4 rttn, warp yarn = 12 S2" X 60 picks = 4.920 picks. 3.280 face picks -:- 4 Vo run = 1,640 back picks -^ 2 run ^ 4.920 Take-up = Loom weitjht 7% shrinkage in length in finishing finished weight, 12.00 oz, warp yarn. 7,30 oz. face filling, 19,30 oz, -f- 10% take-up in weaving -I- 10% waste allowance ^23. 8.20 oz. back filling + 10% take-up -I- 15% waste allowance = 10. 7 .30 oz. 8, 20 oz. 27, SO oz. 2' 7 b oz. .5 0. 25 oz. = 26 oz. BS oz 60 oz. COST- Stocl^ for face yarns: Fine raiifornia carbonized, per Ib,^ $ St(ii:k for backing yarns: 2,'c; fiiie California carbonized (W i-c_ per lb = $ 2;'i^f fine mill w:iste, light shoddy '^i' 24c. per lb = 50'"^ fine light shoddy f? 22c, per lb = Cost per lb $ 23, 5S oz, stock for face yarns (5! 42c, per lb = $ 10.60 oz. stock for backing yarns © 27V2C. per lb ^ Plus 7% shrinkage in length ^ $ Manuf:icturin,g. 60 picks 13 $,0070 + 7 % = Mill cost $1 ^VBAVING CHAIN. ■ ■' ■■■■■' '■■■ I" ma' '.c ■■' J ■ 9 ■■■■ ■■■■■ja ■riasaa aaaa Draa ■ 3 laaD '> BB'^aa vaaaan 5 BBi aaaaa aaa 1 Bann laa. ' :"!rG •■) aaaa aaaaaoa ■; arjaaaaanaaaa 1 n !■' r 11 1'^ r i.t r r n r f FRONT. 1050 0600 1100 2760 6190 1835 0561 8B86 4494 3080 244 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY CASSIMERES Light Weight. 12-ounce Finished. Cassimeres are a staple woolen fabric, made in various grades for men's suitings and in weiglits for winter and summer wear. They are produced in an endless \ariety of designs in color and woven effects. Cloth is close- ly sheared and woven. Fall to .52 inches wide and finish the cloth to 54 inches between twisting. Press very hard to give the cloth a smooth and tine lool<. Spin the yarn to a nice round thread. Light-Weight Cas.:n.ere, 12-ounce. x: < — ■ X K / y X X X ; ^ X X X ^ X X X . X J X ^ ■ X X I' X X X X J X ^ X, ^ f. X, X X X, 1 / .; J A /- / ? / /^^ /g7t-^ '^47^ Full Draft. Drawing Draft. \VOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY — — X X X X .^^ x X X X / X X X X ^ X . K X X J- X X X X /^ , X x; < X v/ K X < X ^ X ^ X X / / ^ J (^ J- / ^ ^ Full Draft. Medium-Weight Cassimere, 14J-ourice. WARP FILLING. 1 medium color. 1 light color. Also made In silk stripes and fancy color over- laid. S HARXESS. STRAIGHT DR.AW, Layout : 2.SS0 ends, 44 picks. Reed. IO14 — 4 — 68, 57" between listing. Warp: 2.S.^0 thr., 5 run 5.86 oz. Filling: 44 picks. 5 run 6,12 oz. Allow 2 Inches after list 11.98 oz. Loom shrinkage, 10% 1.20 " COST CALCULATION. Material: Fine grade of wool, 56c. lb. 16: 5G = 3VaC. an ounce. 1.'1.20 -I- l.S% shrinkage — 15.16 ounce, 15, 16 ounce @ SVSc = 5.6306 Manufacturing: 44 picks ra 0.S6 mills = .3784 Mill cost ,J .9090 Loom weight 13,18 oz. 246 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY FINE PLAID BACK LADIES' CLOAKING Worsted Face, Wool Backing. This is a very fine fabric equal to the best imported cloths made from 2-36s slub-dyed mixture worsted, half-blood quality on face warp and 2-36s white and skein-dyed yarn for back warp. The filling yarns are made from fine carbonized wools. The fabric is made in a variety of worsted mix- tures and skein-dyed yarns for the face and a number of fancy plaids for the back. No fulling is required, but the cloth should be given a thorough scouring, running the goods in the soap somewhat longer than usual. Ex- tract, gig carefully on back, laying the nap. Dry at 57 inches. Steam and brush both face and back, shear, and press medium pressure. Finish at .55 inches inside listing. Filling yarns — one-half mule draft. Fine Piaid Bacl< Ladies' Cloaking. Layout: 2,040 ends 2/36 face warp, slub cl\-ecl mix- ture. \'2 blood quality. 2,040 ends 2/36 back warp, white and skein dyed, ^,2 blood quality, ;j,S,SO enrls, 120 ends white listing 2/30 worsted. G , 11/S reed, 66 4-.5" inside listing, plus 1 12 " for listing = 6S 3-10" over all, 100 picks. 4 '/-J run filling, right twist. Spun soft, V^',\RP PATTERX, ( 1 — white worsted 5 times -j I — grey mixture wstd, ( 1 — black worsted 40 times J 1 — grey mixture wstd, ( 1 — blue slate worsted 20 times ) J — g^^j. mixture wstd, - . ( 1 — w-hite worsted 40 times ) j^ — grey mixture wstd, - ^ 1 — black worsted 6 times ) J — grey mixture wstd. 40 time 20 tiiri^ 40 tim.? \ 1 — while worsted / 1 — grey mixture wstd. \ 1 — lilue state worsted ) 1 — grey mixture \ystd. ( 1 — black worsted I 1 — grey mixture wstd. elds in p.-tltern. FILI.l.X'C, PATTERN', 2/36 back 2/36 face 2/3 6 back. 2/36 face. 2/36 back. 2/36 face. ( 1- 2/36 back. 2/36 face. V tinii.'s 2/36 back. 2/36 face. 2/36 back. 40 times 2/36 face. 2/36 back. 2 times 2/36 face. 2/36 back. 2/36 face. 420 picl- -white "I 1 — black SO — black (1 — blue slate ■/ 1 — black ( 1 — white ) 1 — black 10 — black ( 1 — white ) 1 — bhok (1 — blue slate ) I — bliirk .SO— black cks to pattern 4'i 41,2 41,4 414 4'2 41;, 41,. 4' = 4 ■:. 4'2 4 ', 4-2 4 ',2 run, run, run. run, run, run, run, run. run, run, run, right right right right right right right right right right right right right twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 247 Face mixture is: 120 ends 2/3lj listing 13 oz. 40% white fine ^\'orsted tops. Plus JO'/o t;ike-up 02 oz. 60% bkiek slul. dved tops. .21 oz. . ■ "^ PIIIIub: Weaving chain: llS'a" X 100 picks = C,S30. Straight draw on 20 harness. ''■•'^3'' ^ ^'a runs 15.18oz. Plus lO'f, take-up.... 1.01 oz. ■ ■■■■^■■■■■■■■■GBBBHn'O 16.09 oz. ■■■DaL':'."i;:'jBD«^D:ncaDaLj'!' S'"r";" j""SS3""DaB7 ^°°™ """S"^' 27.110Z. "'^BBB"",''r'5B"B"""Dl5 Finished weight. 21% to 22 oz. BBBBBBB .BaBBBBBBtf ~: . BGH ^-__^L^B__B__jL.-Ji___LBBBi_iUi^ 5.12 oz. 2/36 worsted mixture + 2% waste allowance = &.22 oz. @ $1.15 per lb = $ .3752 5.12 oz. 2/36 worsted skein dyed + 6% waste allowance ^^ 5.45 oz. @ $1.00 per lb = .3406 .21 oz. 2/36 worsted listing -j- 2% waste allowance = .23 oz. (yi $1.00 per lb = .0014 Filling: 10.09 oz. Jii run filling + 10% J,._ ■ CGDGGGaBBBGUGuDGL FRONT. COST CALCULATION. )';''^'«' allowance = IS. 54 oz. <§> '-"-■ = . ti 9 5 2 2.940 ends i;/3(5s worsted mixture 4.Gi; oz. Cost of material $1 4124 Plus 10% take-up ■) (J oz. ^ Manufacturing charges 7000 2.940 ends 2/3Gs skein dyed 4.GG oz. Plus lO'/o take-up 4G oz. UNIFORM FABRICS-CADET GREYS These fabrics are made usually in 14-ounce, 15-ounoe, 16-ounce, 18- ounce, 21-ounce and 24-ounce cloths. The construction and cost calculations of the first four of these weights are given below. The cloth is used for uni- forms tor post offices, military and high schools, etc. It must be made from a strong good feeling wool, as it is required to pass a high test tor strength and wearing qualities, hence care must be taken in selecting the stock and blending it to insure a thorough mixing and freedom from specks when carded. The blue wool in the mixture must be indigo-dyed. Goods to be fulled with a good heavy-bodied soap to insure felting. Pull to 56 inches inside listing. Scour, dry to 57 inches, shear face, steam and brush well and press heavy. Fulled in length to hold 14 per cent shrinkage when finished. All yarns are spun fully half draft, say, five-eighths draft. 14 Oz. C.\DET OKEY I'MFORM CLOTH Layout: STRAIGHT DRAW. 2,881 ends llVi/S in dent, SSVa" inslae listing, plus 1" for listing = S4V3" over OBBGB ,,,< BBGBB BDBBG White yarn, 4 run GBBnB_ 4 picks. BBGBBG j 6 harness. Listing, extra harnesses. DBBGBB BBGBBG BGBBGB □BBGBB BBGBBG BGBBDB BG Bn IB ■ H Bl z BU IB rt Bl It Bl 1 IB IJB H 248 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY Warp: Material: 2,SS0 ends 4% run. left twist 6.59 oz. 15.23 oz. + 10% loom waste allowance Plus S9o loom take-up 53 02. — ltj.92oz. Plus 14% shrinkage in length at fulling Filling: = 19.67 oz.. stock required per finished S.SSo'^lVi run fillini! right twist.. 7.51 oz. ".67 oz. @ $.0390 per oz = $ .7680 Pius S% loom take-up 60 oz. Manufacturing Loom weight 15.23 oz. Finished weight 14 oz. *" P'^ks @ J. 0900 = $ .3600 Plus 14% = $ .11S6 Mill cost J1.1866 COST CALCULATION. Warp and filling yarns spun from same cr.^""? mixture. jt jg possible to cut down this labor cost 50% fine A. A. pulled white @ _ fy having spinners run 2 mules and weav- 63c = $ .3100 50% fine Texas I'l mo. (indigo dyed, med. blue shade) (a) 03c = .3150 16) $ .6250 An ounce $ .0390 ers run 2 looms each. 15 Oz. CADET GREY DNIFORM CLOTH. Layout: COST CALCULATION. 3,000 ends, 12/3 reed; 83M," inside listing. Stock: plus 1" for listing = 8413" over all Same blend as the 14-oz. cloth @ ?,0390 White 4 run yarn. ' Per oz. 42 picks. Same yarns and weave as 14-oz. cloth. Material: 15.90 oz. -f- 10%? loom waste allowance Warp: = 17.66 oz. o ariA r^it, (1/ , .-^ Plus 16%) shrinkage in length at fulling twist ''^'"^' 6S60Z = '^ °^- stock required per finished Plus s% loom take-up.::.::::::: :55oz: 2i''o2.''stock @ $.0390 per oz... = $ .8190 ^''■'"^- Manufacturing: 42 picks X 841/3" = 3.542. 42 picks $.0890 = $.3090. 3,542 -^ 41/2 run filling, right Plus 16%> shiinkage = .4400 twist 7,86 oz Plus 87o loom take-up 63 oz. Mill cost $1.2590 Loom weight 15 90 oz. This labor cost can be cut down by spinners running 2 mules arid weavers running 2 Finished weight, 15 oz. looms each. 16 O7.. CADET OBEY UNIFORM CLOTH. Layout: COST CALCULATION. 3.000 ends 12/3 r^< d. 831/," inside Stock: -r 1" for listing = 84 li"' over' all. ' '^°-^,?.,„r}'^'''"^ ^^^ "''= "■'"'■ '^'°'^ = White yarn 3 Vi run. .^.0390 per oz^ 44 Dicks ' oz. + 10%) loom waste allowance Same wea\'e as 14-oz. fabric. , r,^ ,^^i^^ . . 1 < 1 *r. 1 r 1. 19 oz. -I- 16% slirinkage in length in full- ing ^^ 22.62 oz. stock required per fin- ished vard. Waip: 22.02 oz. stock (g) $.0390 = $ .8821 3.000 ends 4 run. left 'Ist 7.50 oz. Plus 8 7o loom take-u 60 oz. Manufacturing- 44 picks X 841/3" = 3, ,10. U picks (gi $.0860 = $.3784. 3.710 -J- 4% run filling, right twist 8.24 oz, pius 16%o shrinkage = 4500 Plus 8% loom take-up 66 oz. Loom weight I7.OO0Z. This bjbor cost can be cut down by spinners running 2 mules and weavers running 2 Finished weight. 16 oz. looms each WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 249 18 Oz. CADBX GREY UNIFORM CLOTH. Layout: FiJling: 3.000 ends warp, 12/3 reed, 83Mi" inside 40 picks X Si'/a" = 3,374. listing, plus 1" for listing = 84%" over 3,374 -i- 3^,4 run right twist 10.38 oz. all. Plus 8 7o take-up SO oz. White Shii run yarn. 40 picks. Loom weight 19.43 oz. Weave: Finished weight. 18 oz, 8 harness. 2 harness extra for listing. COST CALCULATION. Stock: STRAIGHT DRAW. Same blend as the IJ-oz. cloth = $.03'J0 per oz. □■■■□■■■in" (H 19.43 oz. loom weight, plus 10% waste ■■■nHHHn Hn Z allowance — ^i.o.i oz. ■□■■■"■■■D O 21.59 oz. + 16% shrinkage in length at QiHUaaa aa r^ fulling = 2.5.70 oz. aacaaaaa' ja tr aaaGaaaaiao " ,. , . • B_aaaGaalaJ Manufacturing: "" 25.70 oz. ffl $.0390 per oz = $1.0000 „, 40 picks ® $.0900 = $ 3600. Warp: piy^ i6 % "shrinkage = .4286 3,000 ends, 4 run warp, left twist. 7.50 oz, Plus 10% loom take-up 7 5 oz. Mill cost $1.4285 Both the 21-ounce and 24-ounce fabrics analj'zed below are usually given a light run on the gig, using old or dull teasels, just enough gigging to straighten out the fibres of wool on face. Dry, shear close, steam brush and press hard. 21 Oz. CADET GREY DNIEORM CLOTH. Layout. Filling: 4,400 ends, I31/2/4 reed, SlVz" inside list- 50 picks X S3" = 4,150, ing, plus IMi" for listing — 83" over all, 4,160 -^ iVz run, right twist 9,22 oz. White 3 1^ run yarn. Plus 10% loom take-up 92 oz, 5 picks, Loom weight 22.24 oz. Weave: 12 harnesses.* Finished weight 21.00 oz. 2 harnesses e.xtra foi- listing. STRAIGHT DRAW. COST CALCULATION. =,„ = »,,-•=.»»„„.. Stock: DDaaaaDDaaaO'DB Ba"°BBBn"nBB a' ''""'^ blena as the 14-oz. fabric (oi $.0390 DDBBBDaDBBBD BD ^ P.';'', "'■'■ BBBaDDBBBDGD DB Z 22.24 oz.. loom weight, plus 10% waste nnSSSnrnSSSn BT ° allowance = 24.66 oz. BBBnoGBBBLGn !□ « 24,66 oz. -|- 16% shrinkage at fulling BGGGBBBGGGBB CB &. = 29.35 oz. GGBBBDGGBBBG GB BBBGGGBBBDGD BD BaGGBBB._GCBB BD Manufacturing: „, ^„. 29,35 oz. IS $.0390 = $1.1446 ""^P- 50 picks ffl $.0800 + 16% = .4760 4.400 ends. 4 run. left twist 11.00 oz. Plus 10% loom take-up 1.10 oz. Mill cost $1.6206 24 Oz. CADET GREY UNIFOBiM CLOTH. Layout: GCBBBDBDGGBBBDBG 4.800 ends 141,4/4 reed. 823,4" Inside list- BBBbBDGQBBBGBGQa ing. plus 11/2" for listing = 84^,4" over BGGGBBBGBGGCBBBD O.M GGBBBDBGGGBBBGBG Ch ^1/ ■'..,« „.l,Uo v„rn BDBGDi^BBB^BGGGBB E 31/2 iun white yarn. ■BBDBDGGBBBnBnaD ^ 56 picks. BD GBBBGBGDGBBBD O GGBBBGBDGDBBBGBG m „, ,„. BDBGQDBBBGBDGDBB h. Weave. BBBGBGDGBBBDBnGG " 12 harnesses as in 21-oz. cloth; nG2£5r5°"in'J'i!R!R Or 16 harnesses straight draw, as below. BGBG^b'bb ■ j"gbb BBBLBG.. ■■■ ''BGDG -?.^!^^'?"--'. .' -'f ""^ Warp: 4,800 ends 4 run warp, left twist .. 12.00 oz. Plus lO^/o loom take-up 1.20 oz. 250 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY Filling: 56 picks X 5414" = i.'li 4,71S -^ 4^ run right twist tillingl ISO oz. Plus S9'f take-up = .95 oz. Loom weight ;^5.95 oz. Finished weight. 24 oz. I COST CALCULATIOX. Stock: Same blend as 14-02. fal.ric /a ?.0390 pel- 25.95 oz. loom weight. + 107o waste al- lowance = 2S.3 oz. 2S.3 oz. + 169(1 shrinkage in fulling = 33 I3 oz. stock required per finished yard. Manufacturing: 33H oz. (a) $.0390 per oz = $1.2998 56 picks @ $.0740 = $.4144. Plus 16% shrinkage = .4933 Mill cost $1,7931 REGATTA STRIPE LADIES' SUITING This cloth is woven on a double plain weave, the warp threads being a thread face and a thread back, while the filling threads show both on face and back, the white pick weaving on the face as it interlaces with the white warp threads, then goes on to the back where it interlaces with the grey threads. The grey filling thread works the opposite of the white thread. The stock used is a fine wool and carbonized white noil, free from nubs, and carded worsted yam waste. Cards must be in good condition and great care must be taken to see that the grey stock is carded free from specks. Very little fulling is required. Extract, dry at 57 inches and press light. plus 1" for listing S harness. La.vout : 1.760 ende 1214/2 reed. 70" inside listln over all. Draw straight Listing on extra harness or s 3 picks. WEAVE. CB«»nB«" » Grev. ■ ■[;■■■ ■ 9 10'/2-Ounce Regatta Stripe Ladies' Suitijig. Warp: ide straps. run yarn. 3 ?4 run yarn, right twist. Vi'ARP PATTERN. — V\'hite. 3I2 run. — Light grey. 3^2 run. — "^'hite. 312 run. — Light grey, Z^A run. — Blue fancy. 5 run. —White. 3% run. — Light grey. 3^2 run. — White, 3^2 run — Light grev. 3^2 run. —Black and white 2/ 11 patts cotton, sections FRONT. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 251 FILLING PATTERN. \ — Light grey, 3 ^4 run. ^ -- \\'hite, o ^4 run. COST CALCULATIONS. \\';.Lrp: SNU ends ^\i"lite warp, 3 "-^^ i'uii = '2.. hi oz. -|- 10% loom take-up =^ ^.70 oz. GlJU ends light grey warp, 3 Va run ^ l.SS uz. + 10% loom take- up = 2,0tioz. 110 ends blue fancy, 5 run ^ 0.22 oz. -)- 10% loom take-up ^ 0,24 oz. 110 ends blauk and white 2/40s coLlou = 0.11 oz. + 10% loom take-up O.li: oz. Filling. 71" X 30 picks = 2.130. 1.065 picks white 3% run ^ 2.S4 oz. -|- 10% loona take-up .... = 3.12 oz. 1,065 picks light grey Z%, run ^= 2.S4 oz. + 107o looin take-up ^ 3.12 oz. Loom weight 11.42 oz. Finished weight, 10.50 oz. Stock for white yarns: 70%, white noil @ 42c = % .2940 30% white tine wool fM 55c ^ .1050 Cost per pound % .4590 Stock for light grey yarns; 40% white wool <& 55c = $ -2200 30% white noil @ 42c = .1260 3 0%i hue black carded worsted waste (0' 30c = -0900 Cost per pound $ .4360 2.76 oz. white warp. 3.12 oz. white filling. S.iiS oz, + 6% waste allowance ^ 6.20 oz. (Q) §.4590 per lb. = % .1795 2.0IJOZ. light grei' warp. 3.12 oz. light grey filling. 5.1s nz. -f- 6% waste allowance ^= 5.52 oz. @ $.4360 per lb. = .1504 0-24 oz. blue fancy -f- 6% waste al- lowance =- 0.25 oz. @ $.6000 per lb -- .0094 2/40s twist cotton, black and white -= 0.12 oz. @ $.4000 per lb = .0030 $ .3423 IManufu'turitig cost : 30 picks at Ic 3000 Mill cost % .6423 PLAID BACK HOMESPUN CLOAKING This fabric is woven witli plain weave face and four-harness twill back with 1 thread heavy homespun nub yarn on face and 2 threads fine yarn on back. The face yarns are made from coarse imported wools, while the -5«a^m^' 22-Ounce Plaid Back Homespun Cloaking. backing yarns are made from fine medium domestic wool, with a mixture of fine light shoddy for dyeing. Pace yarn is spun heavy and rough card- ed, with a good percentage of large nubs. In spinning this homespun yarn a good long draft is required, say three-fourths draft, and medium twist. 252 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY with just enough to ensure good weaving. The filling is spun soft. Backing yarn should be a good level thread free from twists and bunches, draft to be five-eighths of mule. Full very slightly, but give a good scouring, run- ning the goods a little extra in the soap. Rinse well, extract and dry at 58 inches. Shear tack and give medium pressure. Finish at 54 to 55 inches inside. Layout: 1.280 ends 3 run back warp. 040 ends 1 run face warp. 31'0 ends 2 '40s cotton binder. 2,240 ends 1 Reed 7 i" inside listing i" listing. o\-er all. Weave: Draw straight on 14 harness. f 1. ! I- run. run. Light tan. 3 run. "White nub yarn, ] Ligl^Lt tan, 3 run. Dru-b cotton. 2/40, Light tan, 3 run. White nub yarn, 1 Light tan. 3 run. White nub yarn, 1 run. Light tan, S run. Drab cotton. 2/40. Light tan, 3 run. White nub yarn, 1 run. Light tan, 3 run. threads in pattern. 2, '40s cotton bini.ier. /4ns cotton binder. FILLING PATTERN. f 1. Olive green, 3 run. I 1. jVIedluni brown nub yarn, 1 run. I 1. Olive green. 3 run. I 1. Light tan. 3 run. ■; 1. ^JeM. brown nub yarn, 1 run. [ 1. Light tan, 3 run. 4S threads in pattern. 3*-; picks per inch. FRONT. This chain is made to weave face down. Stock for face warp: 157e large white nub ■ 5UC. . . O'/r white med. wool (w 44c , o-^o white Kandahar '§■ 32c.. .0750 .OSSO . 2 S Cost per pound S .3710 Stock for backing: r,0^c fine med. wool fw 56c 5 .2S00 5 0^c fine shoddy fS) 24c 1-00 Light shades for coloring. Cost per pound S .4000 Stock for face filling: 15% nubs (51 50c ? -0750 20% med. wool 'a' 44c OSSO 20% E. India wool ^i> 25c 0500 45% coarse shoddy '5' 15c 0675 Cost per pound S .2S05 2/40s dyed cotton yarn '5' -iSc, per pound. WARP PATTERN. i 1. Oii\"e green, 3 run, I 1. White nub yarn. 1 run. Olive green. 3 run. Drab cotton yarn, 2/40. 0'i\'e green. 3 run. White nub yarn, 1 run. Olive green. 3 run. 1 1. White nub yarn, 1 run. I 1, Olive green, 3 run. 1. Drab cotton. 2/40. I 1 Olive green, 3 run, I 1, White nub yarn, 1 run. I 1. Olive green, 3 run. COST CALCULATIONS. Warp: 1,2S0 ends, 3 run ^ 4,27 oz,. plus 10% take-up = 4.70 oz. 640 ends, 1 run = 6.40 oz., plus 10% take-up = 7,04 oz. 320 ends 2/40s = 0.32 oz., plus 10%. take-up = 0.35 oz. Filling: 70" X 36 picks ^ 2.520. 1,6S0 threads. 3 run = 5,60 oz.. plus 10% take-up = 6.16 oz. :s40 threads. 1 run ^ S.40 oz,. plus 10% take-up = 9.24oz. Loom weight 27.49 oz. Finished weight, 22 02. 7.04 02. face warp plus 15% waste allowance = S.28 oz. (5) ?.3710 per lb = % .1920 0.24 oz. face filling plus 20% waste allowance ^ 11.55 oz. @ S.2S00 per lb = .2021 4.70 oz. back warp. O.lGoz. back filling. lO.SOoz. plus 15% waste allowance = 12.77 oz. @ J, 4000 per lb = .3192 .03.J oz. 2 '40s drab cotton binder rg) ?.3500 @ ?-4S00 per lb . . =- .0105 Cost of stock $ .7238 Manufacturing: 36 picks @ $.0094 3354 Mill cost J1.0622 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 253 MACKINAW FABRICS For many years this fabric was p men and hunters in the .Michigan woo vogue witli college men and others w it is especially adapted. It is also u through a waterproofing process. It i 32 ounces and upward, and in a grea also in fancy colors in strong contra The fabric here illustrated is a 22- thick and heavy, giving warmth with niackinaws is also made with a cotto fillings. In spinning yarns for these fabri 4-dratt. Warp yarns are spun with j ing, and filling yarns are given a me listing, so as to hold loom length wh back and face, dry at 57 inches, bru Waterproof! If it is desired to waterproof thi the proportion of 21 ounces of good second solution of 3 ounces of alum i Run the goods in the washer (after b vious to the napping) in the soap so Drain off the excess liquor, add the alu til saturated, then drain off again, but regular goods. The alum solution p an insoluble aluminate soap, and ma ractically monopolized by the lumber ds, and recently became much in ho are fond of out-door life, for which sed for winter sports when put s made in various weights from 22 to t variety of fancy plaids in grey tones, sting shades and striking patterns, ounce cloth, and woven so as to feel out excessive weight, A low grade of n warp and all-shoddy or card waste cs it is necessary to have at least ust twist enough to ensure good weav- dium twist. Full to 56 inches inside en finished. Scour, extract, nap both sh and press with medium pressure. ng Process. s cloth, make up a soap solution in tallow soap in 5 gallons of water. A n 5 gallons of water is also made up. eing scoured and rinsed off, and pre- lution until thoroughly saturated. m solution, and run goods as before un- do not rinse. Extract the same as recipitates the soap in the goods into kes an excellent water repellent. 22-Ounce Mackinaw. Layout: 2.000 ends. Reed 71/2/4, (it) 2-3" inside listing. 1 1-3" for iisting. 68" over aii. Draw straight on 6 harness. Warp yarn: 1 \^ run. right twist. Filling yarn: 1 Va run, right t\\ i.st. 30 picks, □□□■■■ « UhUBHS S □ ■■■□ I 2 mmuauu s ■■oana 1 FRONT. 254 T\'O0LEX AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY WARP PATTERN". 12— Black. 1^ — -Light grev mixture. :.■— Black. ^' — L,ight grev mixture. S— Black. ■'^ — Light grev mixture. ■S— Black. 6 — Light grev mixture. ;; — Black, l'^— Light grev mixture. 1- — Black. lOn ends; 4 patterns: o sections. FILLING PATTERN. 2i:^Black. -'-'- — ^Light grev mixture. :J— Black. •1— Light gre\- mixture. >-j- — Black. ■i — Light grev mixture. 6— Black. ■1 — Light grev mixture. 2 — Black. 2 — ^Light grev mixture. yo STOCK BLEND. WARP AND FILLING. Black: 507o coarse wool, black -g 3'ic. . . . S .ISOO 50^'c coarse shoddy, black a lie. .0750 Cost per pound § .2550 Light grey mixture: 30'"-i coarse wool, white 'a 40c S .1200 35rc coarse shoddy, white ^ 25c.. .0ST5 35 7o coarse shoddy, black 'g 15c. . .0525 COST CALCULATIONS. 2,000 ends warp 1 1-2 run ^ 13.33 oz. + 10^'c loom take-up. ... ^ 14.' Filling: 6^" X 30 picks = 2,040. 2,040 filling. 11^ run = 1.360 oz. + 10 9c' loom take-up ^ 14.! Loom weight 2&.1 Finished t\- eight, 2 2 oz. Warp: SiO ends black = 5.S6 oz. + 107c loom take-up + IS'T'c waste.. = 1,120 _threads light grey mixture ^^ 1.46 oz. -f- lOSc loom take-up -r 1 5 '~'c waste = &.66 oz. J60 ends black = 5.74 oz. + 10% loom take-up + IS-zo waste.. = 7.42 oz. I.ISO ends light grey mixture = 7-S6 02. + 107c loom take-up + 15_rf waste = 10. 16 oz. i_.o , oz. black ^\-arp. 1 .4_' oz. black filling. 14.99 oz. 'a 50 per lb. y.66oz. light grav warp. 10.16 oz. light gray filling. 6c. per lb. Manufacturing cost: 3 picks (a> Ic . . . Cost per pound 5 2 6 00 I .2389 $ .3220 $ .5609 % .3000 LADIES' SUITING 12-Ounce Nub, Napped Finish. These goods are made from .Toria and Khorassan imported wools, with a ppircentage of good shoddy or mill waste. They are made in a large variety of colorings and designs, such as 1 x 1 hair line, 3x1 hair line, as in illustration, and 2x2 Regatta stripe, and in various broken stripes. These stripe patterns, made with the coarse rough yarns and finish, are very popular in England at present. The large "nubs" or rather "slugs" in this cloth enhance its appearance and value. The picka per inch being low, it is possible tor a mill to get ofi a very large pro- duction. The nubs or slugs are made from a fine medium wool, and as large as possible on nubbing card, so when mixed with the batcli and going through the carding operation, the large slugs are caught by the workers and drawn out in length. These slugs have to be felted or fulled a little before being added to the batch in the picker room, Yarna are spun a good fair twist, both for warp and filling, and about 2-3-draff is required. Full to .56 inches, inside listing, and hold loom length when finished, Xap slightly after extracting, dry at 57 inches, brush and preea medium pressure. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 255 Layout: 1.116 ends. Warp: 1% run. right twist. W lilt'' >"al) Wu Filling: 1% run, riglit twist. 20 picks. Reed — 8.2 in dent = 69%" inside listing 1 " listing. 70%" over all. Straight draw on 6 harness. 2 listing. 1 Fill ■p pattern : black 1% yarn, white nub yarn. ng Pattern: white nub yarn, black nub yarn. 12-Ounce Dress Goods Suiting, 3 x 1 Hair Line. STOCK BLEND WARP AND FILLING. Black — 35% East India or Khoras- san 30c = ? .1050 65% Black serge shoddy 12c = .0780 Cost per lb $ .1S30 White — 15 % Large white nubs @ 60c = $ .0900 35% White Joria wove @ 40c = .1400 50% White coarse shoddy @ 30c = .1500 Coat per lb $ .3809 COST CALCULATION. 1.116 ends w^p.. 1% run = 6.37 02. + 10% loom take-up = 7.00 oz. 70%" X 20 picks -- 1,414. 14.14 -i- 1% run = 8.08 oz. + 10% loom take-up ^ S.8S Loom weight IS.SSoz. Finished weight 12 oz. 4.66 oz. black warp yarn. 5.92 oz. black filling yarn. 10. OS OZ- + 1d% waste allowance -- 12.4 oz. (iji IS. 3c. per lb = % .1418 :^,o3oz. white nub warp. i;.!Mi oz. white nub filling. 5,2i^t oz. + 1.0% waste allowance ^ 6.2 oz. dp 3Sc. per lb = .1472 $ .2.S9 Manufacturing cost : 20 picks (gi 1.10c ^ $ .2200 Mill cost ? .5090 56 WOOLEX AXD WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY Dress Goods Suiting, With Broken Stripe Effect. Here is another illustration of same fabric and yarns but in one of the broken stripe effects. This style iv-ill cost a trifle more for stock, as there is a larger Dercentage of white yarns in the pattern 12-Ounce Dress Goods Suiting With B roken Stripe Effect. Layout : 1.11'; ends, 1^4 run warp and filling N reed, 2 in dent G&^j" wide. 1" listing:, TO^i" over all. DRAFT. COST CALCULATIONS. ?..50oz. black warp. 4.44 Dz. blauk filling. 7.94 oz. + 157o waste allowance ^= 9.3 oz. @ IS. 3c. per lb = $ .1063 3.50 02. white nub warp. AAi oz. white nub filling. 7.94 OZ- + 15% waste allowance = :^.?. oz. /a 3Sc. per lb = .2209 $ .3272 ^Manufacturing: cost: ^0 picks 'S- 1.10c = S .22 00 Mill cost $ .5472 ASTRACHAN CLOAKING 26[ 2 Ounce, Fancy Weave, The illustrations accompanying t graphic reproductions of the raw clot face and the back of the cloth to giv weave in combination with the yarn twill effect. You will observe the sma enlarged to a broad twill, showing lo will, on being fulled, curl up in loop witli comparatively few ends and set lustre yarn a chance to curl in the pro is formed jy the finer warp yarn b his layout and calculations are photo- h (unfinished) which shows both the e a better understanding of how the s are interwoven to give the wave 11 straight twill on face is gradually ops of the lustre worsted yarn, which s or bunches. This cloth must be made open in the reed, which gives the cess of fulling. The small straight twill eing set close in the reed, while the WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 257 coarser warp yarns are set open, which makes tlie twill large and wide. The construction is quite ingenious, and a novelty in cloth fabrication. The same care must be used in the finishing of this fabric as in the Rating cloaking, and although this cloth construction is not so liable to have mill wrinkles, the filling must be watched closely to prevent any such possibil- ity. Full to 56 inches; scour, extract; piece dye to shade; dry to 57 inches; brush and shear off any coarse hairs on back, no pressing being required. Goods are finished loom length. Layout: 1,800 ends warp Dressed: 20 ends, 2 run, left twist. Medium. 16 ■' 4 Hard. — Must be strong yarn. 36 ends, 10 patterns, 5 sections. 1,000 ends, 2 run, wp. left. 800 •• i Re 1 1 ed 5, 4 4 1 4 1 4 1 4 1 S 1 s Flllii ig pattern: 1 pirk, 3s lustre worsted, soft spun left. 2 picks, 'J: run, woolen, soft spun left. ■is picks. Draw strLiight on 12 harnesa. Face. Backo 258 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY WEAVE CHAIN- Stock: Blen< 7 % 30T- Fine shoddy & ISC = .0540 = ■ aa^ 1" Blend for 4-run ^■a^n. □■aaGL.aB^:j~3a~BG«aLB.__a__Ba^aZ^B::Lj n ro'/^, Fine medium wool c,/' -jfic = 8 3920 BaDBBaaBBQDBB[::^jzB::B:Ba;B aDnanGaaaaaaGuaa^zazar-a^aazaz azzana BaaazDazzaaGBaazzaaL._zzaZBG«a_BZzazc ^ BanBBZBnDBDGaBDBBBnZBBZZUDBZa BBZBZa ; fost ner lb J .4460 UOaU laBBDBDaBQaBBZBBBUDBBDDaZBL^BZaBG ', - ^ ■ BBDBODBDaBBDBGCBnDBBZBBBjDBBaDDoBDBn ° nBnBBaBaaBnDBBUBaaBUZBBaBBBOZBBGauaB + 3s Lustre T^ orsted \arn, made from Im- DDBDBaBBGBaDBnL'BBnBnZlBn^BBOBBBUDBB_3 '^ norted Entrlish Lincoln wool 70c BDnDDBDBDBB^BZDBaDBBnBGZBZaBBZBBBnDB = PO' leu l^ngilsn l^mcom «00], I uc. DOBBZDaaBZBaBBnBGaBZZBBaBZDBZ^BaGBBB I COST CALCULATIONS. 2; "Warp; m2::::-: ;;:; -5,00 oz. 2-run yarn + 15% 3 waste allowance = 6.47 oz. ■J &■ 33.20c. per lb = $ .1342 2.20 oz. 4-run yarn -t- 10% waste allowance = 2.44 oz. Warp calculations: (g> 44.e0c. per lb = .0680 1,000 ends, 2 run = 6.00 oz. + 107o loom take-up = 5.50 oz. Filling: 800 ends, 4 run = 2.00 oz. l:;.32 oz. 2-run yarn + 15% + 10% loom take-up = 2,20 oz. lyaste allowance = 14.50 oz. ig) 32.20c. per lb = $ ,2980 Filling: 11.72 oz. 3s worsted + 6% 70 Inches X 48 picks = 3,360, waste allowance = 12.32 oz. 1,120 Threads 3s lustre = 10.66 '3 ' "'■ Per lb = .5390 oz. -f 10% looin take-up., ^ 11.72 oz. 2,240 Threads, 2 run wool = $1,0392 11.20 oz. -1- 10%> loom take- Manufacturmg costs: up = 12 32 oz ^^ picks tgj .82c = $ .3936 "" Less cost of manufacturing Loom weight 31 74 oz ^'-^~ °^' °^ y^''" = -"SOO .3636 Finished w^eight 26^! oz. Mill cost $1.4028 Stock: Blend for 2-run yarns. 40%) Fine medium wool @ 56c =^ % 2240 60% Fine shoddy (g) ISc = .1080 Coat per lb $ .3320 COTTON WARP ASTRACHAN CLOAKING The most expensive astrachans are woven on a wire loom, whiicli is sim- ilar to a carpet loom. Two warp beams are required, (1) for the lustre loop yarn and (1) for the body warp, which is usually cotton yarn. The loop or curl yarn is looped on the face of the cloth, being stitched into the body fabric about every half inch. The cheapest astrachan cloth made Is what is known as the knitted astrachan. It is made usually with an all-cotton yarn ground with the lustre yarn looped on the face. This makes quite an attractive fabric to any who are not experienced in hand- ling such goods, but it does not make up so satisfactorily into garments as the woven fabric. The knit fabric is sleazy and will not keep its shape when made up. It is also open in construction, light in weight, and lack- ing in warmth. The fabric here analyzed is the woven astrachan, made on a regular broad woolen loom, the ground weave being the regular 3- harness twill, 2 up and 1 down, throwing the woolen filling to the back of the cloth, while the lustre loop yarn is thrown to the face in a succession of 1 .lops. The ground pick floats over l thread and under 2 threads, while th(- lustre yarn floats over 11 ground threads, and binding with seven otl.er ground threads, every alternate loop covering the place where the privious pick of loop yarn was bound. The ground filling varn is spun he ivy with a medium soft twist to right, and a long draft is necessary, abjut % to %, it depending a good deal on the stock used. The lustre yarn thread. No. 3s worsted, is twisted with a 2-run wcolen yarn, spun BOft to the right, and when twisted with the lustre yarn the twist is con- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 259 tinued to the right, 3 to 4 turns per Inch. This hardens the woolen yarn twist and practically takes out all the original twist oi the lustre yarn. The lustre yarn is allowed to run without any tension on the thread, and if the twister machine has 2 sets of feed rolls arran^jed with different speeds it is better to have the lustre yarn fed a trifle faster than the woolen or core yarn, which gives it a slight curl effect before weaving. The cloth should be crabbed well before being scoured in soap. Give a good scouring and use plenty of warm water when rinsing off. Finish at 56 inches wide, no pressing being required. Cloth will finish longer than woven cotton yarn. Layout: 2,240 ends 2/20. Reed 11 — 3. 68 inches, 40 picks. Draw straight on IS harness. Stock for 2-run twisting yarn: 20% Fine medium wool (§) 4Sc, 80% Good clean mill waste @ 12c Cost per lb $ .0960 .0960 Stock for body fiiling:. Clean mill waste rti) 12c, per lb. Lustre yarn 3s worsted 72c, per lb. Spooled for twisting. Filling: 1 pick, 1 1/3 woolen yarn, soft twist right, 1 " r 3s lustre worsted, left twist. j Twisted 3-4 turns per inch to right [with 2-run yarn; right twist soft. 19 ■naaDaBHDDaBDBnan 17 DDaBaaDDBDHGaDMBBD 1° BODaaDaaDDaaaDDaaa IS BaaDDaaBBDaDBaaaDn H DaaDaDODaDBaDDaaao 1^ BaDCBBBDnnaaaaDGBG 1^ aaaaaaaaanDGaDaaDn n anaaaDDaaaaonDaaaa i'> BaDGaaaDDBaGBDanaa » BBBGGDaGaGGGBBBGGG a aaaaaaaGaBBGaaaGBG I BaGaBaaaaaaa^aaGBB s BGBaGGaGBaaDBaaaGa & GGaaanDGaaanDGaGaG < aaGaaGBGOGaDaaGcaB 8 BGBGGGBaaaGGaaaGDG - DGBBBGGBBaaGGGBGBB I aGDGBGBGDGaaaaGDBB COST C-SlLCULATIONS, 2.240 ends 2/20 cotton yarn = 4.48 oz. + 10% loom take-up = 4,9 3s lustre + 8% twist take-up, = 14,11 oz, + 10% loom take- up = 15,5 2-run yarn _-f 10% twist take- up = 7,77 oz, -|- 10% loom take-up =^ 8,5 1,360 ends 1 Vs body filling = 12,08 oz, + 10% loom take-up = 13,2 Loom weight 42,2 Finished weight. 32 or 33 oz, 4,92 oz, 2/20s cotton yarn on spools igi 30c, per lb ^ $ 15,52 oz, lustre yarn 4- 6% twist- ing and weaving waste = 16,61 oz. @ 72c. per lb = 8.64 oz, 2-run twisting + 18% waste allowance = 10,41 oz, @ 19,20c, per lb = 13,28 oz, l>/9 filling + 20% waste allowance — 16,60 oz, @ 12c. per lb ^ Manufacturing cost $1 40 picks 15) .90c = Mill cost $1 2 oz. 2 oz. 4 oz. 8 oz. 0846 3600 No allowance Is made for extra cost of twisting face yarns, as It will be offset by the fact that the warp yarn, 4.48 ounces, and the lustre yarn, 16% ounces, are bought ready for use, hence the mill is relieved of the cost of carding and spinning these yarns. Dyeing Particulars. As these filling (woolen) yarns are made from mill waste which may contain a more or less percentage of cotton, it is necessary to dye the pieces with a good union black dye. The dyestuff used in Philadelphia with great satisfaction is Union Black A. N. For 100 po mds of goods dyed in the piece use a solution containing 5 per cent Union Black A. N., ten per cent common salt, and 10 per cent Glauber's salt. Enter at low temper- ature, bring slowly to a boil, and boil for forty minutef.. Shut off the steam and run for thirty minutes longer, then rinse well. 260 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY HEAVY-WEIGHT WHIPCORD This is a cloth used a great dea ages requiring a strong, hard-faced which is elastic, and yet firm at th the best of wool to ensure tvennes The yarn must be smooth and the wo pared. Care should be taken to see t and doffers not running too fast. Sp This fabric is fulled to 57 inches. Sco medium. Hold loom length. 1 for riding breeches, and other us- and flexible cloth; that is, a cloth e same time. The twist yarn requires s and freedom from nubs or specks, ol thoroughly clean and carefully pre- hat the cards are in good condition in five-eighth draft and medium twist, ur, dry, shear, steam, brush and press 26-Ounce Heavy-Weight Whipcord. Warp: 4.400 ends. 1 1 11% — — in dent. 6 5 69%" Inside listing P US 1" for 11 3tl n 70%" over all. White. 5 run ; twist 2 2 times. 4S picks. 3% run, left twist- TVarp yarn: 5 run dark olive brown, left twist. 51^ run white, left twist. Tarn is twisted right on twister. 22 turns per Inch. Straight draw on 11 harness. 2 extra for listing. □naDiaaaaaa n DaoDaGaaaaa i' a inaonaDiaa ^ aaaaGaoaaaa ^ aaaaaajao .a i aaGaaaaanaa « aj:]a:3aaBaaa = aaaGGa:^iaai ^ aaa auGajja i aa'.iaa a Dua -' UDMuaumnmaa ' GGaiaD Gaaa , , BaGQQaannG./ '-'■' FRONT. 'arp yarn: 6X5% twisted + 8% take-up = 2.42 run 4,400 ends 2.42 run = 18.20 oz. plus 10% take-up = 20.00 oz Filling: 7OV2" X 48 picks = 3% run yarn. 3,3S4 -i- 3.50 = 9.66 oz. plus 10% take-up = 10.60 oz. Loom weight . . . Finished weight 30.60 02. 26.00 oz. COST CALCULATION. Material : Warp: Fine wool @ 66c. per lb. 20 oz. twist yarn + 109 allowance Filling: Fine medium Terr. @ 56c. per lb. 10.6 oz. + 8% waste allowance. = 11.50 oz. 22 oz. warp (5) 66g. per lb = % .9025 11.6 oz. filling ® 56c. per lb... = .4025 waste = 22.00 oz. Cost of stock $1.3050 Manufacturing cost: 48 picks ® $.0082 = .3936 Extra spooling twisting warp yarn 6c. per lb.; 22 oz. at 5c 0700 Mill cost t .1.7686 FINE OUALITY (MEN'S WEilR) SUITING his fabric is made from fine wools, combined with a 2-328 two-tone worsted twist. The woolen spun yarns require careful carding and spin- ning. Yarns must be level and free from twits. Warp yarn is spun with 1,050 to 1,080 turns of twist, and filling yarn with 950 to 975 turns. The draft Is %s to %s. Goods are fulled to 56 Inches Inside listing, and fin- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 261 ished woven length. Scour, extract, dry at 57 inches and back burl. Shear, steam brush, press medium pressure, giving goods a little steam, and keep on roll over night. 12J/2-Ounce Fine Quality IVlen's Wear Suiting. Layout: 3,200 ends. ll%/4. 69 V4" Inside listing, 1" for listing. 70%" over all. Warp pattern: 4 — White 6 run, right twist. 4 — Grey mix, 5 run, right twist. Filling pattern: 4 — Black 5% run, right twist. 4 — Black and stain 2/32s worsted. Weave 4 harness, twill to right. 54 picks. Draw on 8 harness. D mani ummaam\ ■■□□■■□a ,1 IB » L in 7 f Dl OGBBGja Black, ^ 'White. K The grey mix in the warp is made as follows: 5% navy blue fine wool @ 60c. 45% black fine wool la) 60c. 16% light stain (pearl) fine wool @ 60c. 35% white fine wool ® 60c. 100% The stain color in the 2/32s worsted twist is the same shade as the light stain (pearl) in the grey mixture, and is slub dyed. COST CALCUI>ATIONS. Warp: 3,200 ends -s- 5 run = 6.44 02. + 10% loom take-up = 7.08 oz. Filling: 70%" X 54 picks = 3,800. 1.900 threads t- 5 Va run = 3.62 oz. -t- 10% loom take-up = 3.98 oz. 1,900 threads 2/32s -I- 6% take-up in twisting, 2/303 = 3,62 oz. + 10% loom take-up ^^ 3,98 oz. Loom weight 15.04 oz. Finished weight, 12% oz. Warp: 7. OS oz. -f 8% waste allowance = 7.70 oz. (g) 60c. per lb = $ .2887 Filling: 3.98 oz. -t- 8% waste allowance = 4,22 oz. @ 60c. per lb = .1583 3.98 oz. worsted + 3% waste al- lowance = 4.10 oz. @ $1.20 per lb = .3076 $ .7645 Manufacturing: 64 picks @ $.0076 = .4104 Mill cost 11.1649 262 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY DRESS GOODS SUITING 12/2-Ounce, Worsted Loop Filling. This fabric is made somewliat after the idea of a Rating cloth. The warp yarn is made from a medium quality of wool, combined with a quarter-blood carbonized noil. It is woven with white warp and black loop yarn dyed fast acid black to stand cross dyeing. Then the white warp can be dyed into £.ny desired shade, giving a handsome lino of ground colors, all with the black loop filling. It is also made with all white stock, warp and filling, and dyed any desired shade in monotone, giving a very rich pebbled cloth, suitable for the finest trade. This worst- ed loop may be used also in fancy patterns, such as 1 x 1 hair lines, 2 x 2 Regatta stripes, and various broken stripes and plaids, in the ground pattern. The fabric may, therefore, be classed as a semi-piece dye, plain and fancy, also as a regular piece dye fabric. The warp yarn is spun to three run, well twisted, and must be even and free from twits, as the plain weave is always hard on the wavp yarn, and any broken ends, or short ends out, must be sewed in, hence the necessity of good strong yarn. Filling Yarn. The worsted filling yarn is a thr ee-ply twist, necessitating two twist- ing operations and twisting machines having two sets of feed rolls ar- ranged with variable speeds. The 12s lustre yarn, soft spun, left twist, is twisted first with a 2-32s quarter-blood worsted right twist. These threads are twisted together about 10 turns per inch, right twist. The 12J/2-0unce Dress Goods Suiting. feed rolls conveying the 12s yarn are speeded to run about 50 per cent faster than the rolls conveying the 2 -32s yarn, which makes a continuous kinky or curly effect on the yarn. This yarn is not suitable for weaving at this stage, as the loop would slip on the base thread, hence it is n ecessary to twist it the second time, reversing the twist, that is, to the 1 eft, about six turns per inch, with the 16s single worsted, which will hold the loops tight on the base yarn. Be- tween the first and second twisting the yarns are thoroughly steamed. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 263 You will notice in the first twisting that the original twist is taken out of the 12s lustre yarn, which opens the thread and makes it fuzzy at the loop, while the twist is continued or hardened on the 2-32s ya:n. In the second twisting the twist of the 2-32s yarn is taken out, and the twist of the 16s single yarn is continued or hardened. This yarn construction may be cheapened by using a twist cotton yarn for the base instead of the worsted. Any manufacturer not equipped with the necessary twisters can buy the yarn already to weave. In burl- ing this cloth all knots must be pulled through to the back, but not cut off until the cloth is ready to shear. If the knots were cut off previous to fulling and scouring, the ends would shrink just enough to cause a small pin-head ho'e in every case. After the goods are dyed and dry, the knots can be cut off by the shear, care being taken to raise the blades enough not to cut off the worsted pebbled effect. Give very slight fulling without any cramping. Scour, extract, and piece dye to shade. Dry at 57 inches, press lightly, and steam off face to lift the worsted loops. Layout; ll's lustre worsted 75c. per lb, 1 1"0 ends 2/32s M blood worsted 87c. per lb. g'i/1_2 reed ^"^ ^^ blood worsted SOc. per lb. 66" inside listing plus 1" for listing = ^U.^^^,'" Pj'^'^!,,'' "'■^fin 67' over all. ^'"n^ "'^'''','^?- "%°^ ^ °^-. ,+» "0 picks ^^7o twisting talce-up = 4.78 Plain cloth weave. , »/„ + 1»% ^:;^J.y'nS 'f'T^P'T ^-^^ °^- nraw straight on 8 harness. l'^,^" "'"'\''!, -Z^-? T ^'^^ °\ :^, 15% twisting talte-up ^ 2,74 oz, + 10% weaving talte-up..— 3.01 oz, ■ DBOBaBD . ^•l^„''„"""^.''?. "%^ ~-^^ °^-,± naciDBna B 20% twistmg talie-up = 2,86 ■ nBDBcaa y, oz, -|- io% weaving take-up., = 3,14 oz, ■□■□■dS* ° ■'■■'''' '^"'^^ warp 3 run -|- 10% take- DBGBDBaB ^ up -f 10% waste allowance — ■OBaBLBD fa 4,40 oz, (n) 42c, per lb = $,1166 D«a»DB3B 5.20 oz, 12s worsted -I- 6% waste al- lowance = 5,60 oz, @ 75c, per lb,= .2626 3,01 oz, 2/32S worsted -I- 3% waste Warp: allowance =^ 3,11 oz, @ 87c, per 25% fine med, wool @ 4Sc = $ .1200 lb = .1700 75% med. carb. noil @ 40c = .3000 3 14 oz, 16s worsted -1- 3% waste llowance — 3 24 oz. @ 80c. per Cost per pound $.4200 lb = .1620 IManufacturing cost $ .7100 20 picks @ $,1100 = .2200 Extra cost (twisting) = .0250 $.9650 Loom weight, 16 oz. Finished weiglit, 12% oz. HOMESPUN FABRICS The name homespun is applied to a number of different fabrics, usually any cloth made from coarse kempy wools, heavy yarns or plain cloth weave with a rough finish. The real genuine homespun, however, is a rare fab- ric to find in the market, but there are many good imitations, and the fabric here illustrated is one of the best of them. As its name implies, the home- spun is a cloth made up in the homes, where the wool is carded, yarns are spun and cloth is woven, every operation being done by hand labor. The process of carding and spinning by hand is a very ancient one, and dates away back into the mists of antiquity. In comparatively modern times our grandmothers carded the home-grown wools by hand cards, which were made out of a piece of hard wood about a quarter of an inch thick and 14 inches long by five inches wide, having a handle in the centre. This hand card was covered with a piece of card cloth, also made by hand labor in 264 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY the early days, but about a century a was invented. Carding The carding was done by placin held by the left hand, and drawing th points of the wire by reversing the d of the wire the wool was stripped off. of combing or carding with the point each other, repeating the strcive ove blend the fibre and colors into a s ing the card, the wool was stript/f! )lX eighths of an inch in diameter and ab This roll was then placed on the which is impossible to describe, the ro thread of yarn. Then came the dress the cloth. Needless to say the work w very exceptional cases of skillful han mixture, and the cloth was raw and c go an automatic card clothing machine Process. g a small bunch of wool on the card e other card across it against the raw, that is, by pulling with the slant Hence, hand carding was a process s of the wire on the cards opposed to r and over again, in order to mix or atisfactory mixture. Then, by revers- into a small roll about half to flve- out 14 inches long. spinning wheel and, by a process U was drawn out and spun into a ing of the warp and the weaving of as hard and laborious, and, except In dling, the product was uneven in the oarse. in texture. !;?-'** %*■'* ■'-'-^-- 'S'K" ■"' 12-Ounce Homespun Fabric. After the introduction of carding machines very few farmers did their own carding, but sent the wool to the custom carding mills, which made the rolls on a machine at the rate of 50 or 60 per minute, at a cost of a few cents per pound to the farmer. The spinning and weaving was still done at the homes by the wives and daughters. Such was the method of manufactur- ing in the olden times, and it is so done to-day in remote districts in Quebec and the Maritime provinces. Modern Results Too Perfect. The modern manufacturer, when he attempts to make a homespun fabric, gener^ally gets the work too perfect in the weaving or blending of the different colors, and the cloth lacks the mottled uneven appearance of the genuine homespun. In making the homespun here illustrated, the manufacturer aimed to follow or imitate the primitive methods, as far as possible, and use the modern machinery. Therefore, th e wool in this case was natural sheep brown for the dark shade, 40 per cent, and white wool, 60 per cent. The two colors were oiled and picked separately, each color being run through the picker twice, then spread carefully in thin layers, first a layer of white WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 265 wool, then a layer oi natural sheep brown, and so on in alternate layers, until the whole batch was laid down in a pile. The batch was then run through the picker once, care being taken to cut the pile from top to bottom to get as even a blend as possibls. In card- ing a Bramwell feed was used, and the side drawing from the first breaker card was carried over the second carding cylinder to the finisher card by ill A; piily carrier. The workers on both breaker and finisher cards were set open, so that the stock would not be mixed and carded too much. Just enough carding was done to condense the wool into roping sufficient to in- sure a good production in the spinning room. It one had an old creel feed , (1 CM au Apperiy it would be an improvement. There is no chance to use shoddy in this fabric, as all stock must be of good staple wool. The yarn was spun to two and one-quarter run warp, right twist and two and one-half run filling right twijt, about five-eighths draft being allowed. The fol- lowing are a few of the most popular homespun mixtures as made in Scot- land: 40% natural sheep brown. Also the Lovat mi.Ktures: 607c white wool. 11% light Indigo blue. 30% olive dyed wool. -5% (Jark yellow drab. 70% white. y% yellow brown. 2:i'/c light red or cinnamon color. 25% chronte >'ellow. 60% seal brown. 40% white '"'^^^ cuiuiue 40 /„ wnue. ^% white. 10% black wool. 10%, light blue stall>. 387^ light indigo blue. S0 7o white. 2:i% chrome yellow. 25% black. 12%, white. 75% white. "»''<' bright yellow. r,r,^ ,1 ^ .. 1-% yellow brown. 20% yellow drab. 20% lavender slate. 60% medium dark brown. Ii07o dark cerulean green. 1:0% light red brown. 15% seal brown. 45% white. Blending Done Successfully. Scotch manufacturers have used with great success in homespuns, espe- cially in dress goods, or materials with rough effects, a percentage of cam- els hair tops, also mohair and alpaca wools. These blends were very attrac- tive, the mohair combinations especially showing up lustrous and silky. The weaves generally used are the plain cloth to finish 10 ounces to 12 ounces, and the four harness twill weave tor goods to finish 12 ounces to 14 ounces per yard, 56 inches wide. Handsome patterns are made in 1x1, 2x2 warps and fillings, using contrasted shades in both weaves. The goods are laid not over 68 inches wide in the reed and scoured be- fore fulling, very little of the latter being required. Dry at 57 inches, shear off long hairs, brush and press medium. Layout: COST CALCUL.-VTIOXS. 1.400 ends. 1,400 ends 2 14 run = 6.20 1014/2 reed. oz. + 10%i take-up.. = 6,82 oz. 67" inside listing plus M" for listing = 6,,S2 oz. -I- 15%, waste al- 67^" over all, lowLTnce = 8 oz. Listing of white varn; each selvage, 6S" X 24 picks 2ii> run = e,53 oz, + 10%, take- Warp: up = 7,18 oz, ,1, 7,1s oz, + 15% waste al- ■■ ■^ ™"^ lowance = 8,45 oz. '^"""^' Loom weight 14.00 oz. 16.46 oz. 214 run. Weave 4 harness. Finished weight, 12 oz. Twill to right. .<^tock: Good quality B super @ 50c, per lb, 16,45 oz. @ 50c = $ .5140 Manufacturing: 24 picks (S> $.0160 _ $ ,2644 Mill cost J .7684 266 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY MEDIUM-WEIGHT BOYS' SUITING With Silk Twist. This Is a strong serviceable fabric for boys' suitings. It is made from coarse imported wool, good shoddy or mill waste and silk waste. The silk waste gives it the necessary strength, and will boil out the same as an all- wool cloth. Full to 57 inches wide, scour, dry, shear, steam, brush and press medium. Finish loom length. 13/2-Ounce Medium-Weight Boys' Suiting. Layout: 1,200 ends. Warp: 9/2 reed; 66 2-3". 2 picks. PATTERN. 1% run grey yarn ) ^11 1 I'^Ti"" 2 22211111 =20 ends. 2% X 6 run twist S 11111222 22 11111 =Z0 ends. Plain weave. 40 X 5 patterns X 6 sections = 1.200 ends. Fiiiing: Pattern and colors same as warp. 20 picks. TARN CALCULATION.?. 600 ends. 1% run. right twist, grey j-arn = 3,43 oz, + 10% loom take- up = 3.7 7 oz. _ , . f COO threads. 2% run. left twist, black varn = 2.^,3 oz. + 10% loom 1 , ,T J take-up 4- 8% twisting take-up = 3,02 oz. 1. times J gQj tijreads, 6 run, left twist white silk yarn = 1 oz, H- 10% loom per men. ^ take-up -|- 10% twisting take-up = 1.19 oz. Filling: 68" over all X 20 picks = 1,360. 680 threads, 1% run. right twist grey yarn = 3,S8 oz. -t- 10% loom take- up = 4.27 oz. „ I ^ f CSO threads. 2% run, left twist black yarn = 2,S6 oz, + 10%, loom .r,'-?'.^'- I take-up -1- 8%, twisting take-up = 3,13 oz. 1_ times j jgo threads, 6 run, left twist white silk yarn = 1,13 oz, + 10% loom oer men, |^ take-up -|- 10% twisting take-up = 1.34 oz. Loom welglit 16.72 oz. Finished weight 13.50 oz. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 267 STOCK BLEND. 3.77 oz. grey warp 1% run. Gray yarn stock: 4^27^^ grey lining 1% run. Medium twist, mule draft &/Ss. x.n4 oz, + 15% waste allow- 25% black shoddy (g) ll:c = $ .0300 anre = 0.46 oz. 45% white shoddv @ ;jOc = .1350 (gt ^SVaC. per lb...= $.16S& 307o \\hite Joria wool #40c....= .11:00 3.0: oz. black twisting 2% run warp. Cost per lb $ .2S&0 3.13 oz. b'ack t\\ isting 2% Black twisting stock: lun tilling. Yarn spun soft, mule draft 5/Ss. '>1» °^- +,^\^'^' "''''*^ a^Uow^ ^ ^^ ^^ 507o black shoddy @ i:c = $ .0600 @ 22. Sc'. ' per' Vb .'.'.' = 30% black garnetted silk lOi 36c. = .lOsO l.l'.ioz. white silk twisting i;0% black coarse wool @ 30c... ^ ,0600 g run warp. 1,34 oz white silk twisting Cost per lb $ ,22S0 g run tilling. White silk twisting stock: Yarn spun soft, mule draft fully 2/3s, 10% fine white wool fp 56c = $ ,0560 90%, white silk waste @ 40c,,,, = ,3600 Cost per lb J ,4160 + 7o waste allow- 2' ,70 oz. & 41,6c, per lb, , . = J, 0702 Stock per yard Spooling and twist- ing 2,53 oz, (o) SVaC, per lb = aiatiufacturing cost: 2C picks (a) $,0110, = 19 ,39 oz. $,3417 $,0065 $,2200 HAIR LINES FOR MEN'S WEAR It is generally acknowledged that the earliest known weave that we have any samples of is the plain weave, without patterns ot any kind, but, no doubt, after a time some inventive and progressive weaver discovered that it was possible to introduce changes in threads or weave, and a new era dawned in the history of weaving. Possibly the first discovery was making the warp one thread of dark colored yarn with one thread of white yarn, and weaving it also one dark and one white, using the plain weave, and there we have the original hair line. In due time from this plain weave hair line there was evolved the four harness crow twill 1x1 hair line and the 2x2 line also. By this weave it was possible to construct a heavier cloth than could be made by the plain weave, as more ends and picks per inch could be put in, consequently giving better weaving. This weave. Figure 1, dressed 1x1 warp, contrasted colors and woven 2x2 filling, contrasted colors, produces a 1x1 hair line of the same appearance as the plain cloth, but a heavier material. By changing the dressing pattern two blacks and two white and weaving 2x2 black and white, using the same weaving chain as Figure 1, you make a 2x2 line or Regatta stripe as at Figure 2. Fig. 1. Fig. 2. H naaa ""h't^ r ^ naaa wa.-k 4 umau wi.ito g umam win,, ^ ■■■G Black a: ■■■□ Whito ^. UOUU Blact ^ BDaa Bla„lf The pattern as it will appear when woven can be easily traced out by referring to Figure 1, Note that the first white warp thread is floated over three picks and must necessarily show the white line for those tliree picks The fourth pick which binds that warp thread, being a white pick crossing over the white warp thread, makes the continuation of the white line. The !6S WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARi next warp thread, being black, is shown the first pick as binding the thread, and as this pick is black, covering the black warp, it will begin a black line. The warp thread is then floated over the next three picks, which completes the black line, and so on with the other threads. It is quite an interesting study for anyone not a practical designer to pick up a weave chain and apply the warp and filling pattern in this way and so produce the effect of the woven cloth. By combining Figures 1 and 2, as represented in Figure 3. we make a 1x1 hair line on four front harnesses and a 2x2 line on the four back harnesses. The pattern can be made any desired width by dressing the warp, for front sections, one thread black and one thread white for the desired width, and dressing the warp for the back section two threads black and two threads white for the desired width, then drawing the 1x1 on front four harness and the 2x2 on the back four harness, and weav- ing it 2x2. as marked on chain. Figure 3. you get a combination hair line stripe, being 1x1 hair line for desired width and 2x2 hair line for desired width of stripe. Fig. 3. The next step in the evolution of hair lines is to take the single cloth weave. Figure 1, and make a double cloth of it, as shown by weave. Fig- ure 4, which is known as the double plain weave, but it is the same weave as Figure 1 on the face, and same weave inverted for the back. This double cloth weave will allow of making a heavier cloth out of the same yarns, or by using fine yarns, such as worsted yarns, it will maks very neat hair lines in a medium-weight cloth. This weave chain dressed and woven as marked on chain will make a 1x1 hair line double cloth, as illustrated. By dressing the warp one thread of grey and seven threads of black, and weaving three picks black and one pick of grey, using Figure 4 weave chain, it will make a 3x1 hair line, face and back beingthe same. Again, by changing the pat- Fig. 4. -jr ■ ■■■_ tern in dressing to four threads grey and four threads black, filling two black and two grey, and using the Figure 4 weave, changing the draft so that grey threads are drawn in on harness Nos. 1. 2, 5 and 6, and black threads on Nos. 2. 4, 7 and 8, it will make a 2x2 hair line, face and back of cloth be- ing the same pattern. Although hair lines may be out of style to-day, it was only a few years a,go when there was an active demand for them in fine high-grade worsteds, especially in the 2x2 line in combination of skein dyes and mixtures or twists. There is quite a yardage cut up every year in the cheaper grades among the pants manufacturers, so that they may be almost considered a staple cloth. The 1x1 and 3x1 lines are particularly hard to make perfect, or even rea- sonably perfect, as any variation in size or imperfection in the yarn, arising from bad carding or spinning, show up very strongly on the finished goods. Hair lines are made in single yam warp and filling, also all-cotton warp WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 269 and shoddy filling, and in combinations ot single yarns with double and twist, and in worsteds, skein dyes, mixtures and twists. Points of Importance. There are a few special points of importance in the manufacture of these goods, and one of the most important is the absolute necessity of having level and perfect yarns. Yarns that may be used in the ordinary class of work and produce sp':isfactory goods, if woven into hair lines may be so imperfect as to cause uie goods to be classed as seconds. This is a strong statement, but it can be backed up by experi-jnce, hence great care is necessary In the preparation of the stock and in th carding and spinning departments. 1 X 1 Hair Line Double Cloth. If yams are carded and spun right, it is a comparatively easy matter to dress and weave the goods, but careful attention must be given to the burl- ing and sewing in the finishing department, to see that all threads are in their proper place. All broken ends or threads out must be sewed in before fulling. Full to 55 inches inside listing, and in the finer grades of goods it will make them feel more clothy to full a little in length. Dry to 57 inches inside listing. Shear, brush with steam, press medium pressure, 55 inches inside listing. We give the layout and cost calculations for three fabrics: (1) Medium grade single cloth, weave as Figiire 2. (2) A double cloth with half double and twist yarns. (3) A fine 2-40s worsted in black and white yarns. Medium Quality 14-Ounce Hair Line. Layout: AVarp pattern: 1,600 ends 2. Black. :! run, right twist. 2 run warp. 2. Light grey, 2 run, right twist. Right twis*. 11 Mi/2 reed. Filling p.ntter.i: 70" inside listing plus 2" for listing = 72" l, "EUu-lt, 2^ run, left twist. over all. 2. Light' gr-y Jij' run, left twist. 1. Black, 214 run, left twist. Pilling: 2^4 run, left twist. Stock Uiixture — Black: 25 picks. 30% fine medium wool 44c... = $ .1320 "Weave as Figure 2. 70% good black shoddy @ 12c.. = .0840 2" for listing. , * Cost per pound $ .2160 270 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY stock mixture — Light grev; 30% fine med. white wool @ 44c. = $ .1320 30% white shoddy ® 30c = .0900 40% good black shoddy @ 12c.. = .0480 Coat per pound $ .2700 CALCULATIONS. 1,600 ends 2 run = 8.00 oz. 72 + 25 picks 2% run = 7.60 oz. 15.*60 oz. 10% weaving take-up = 1.56 oz. Loom weight 17.16 oz. 17.16 oz. yarn + 15% waste allowance = 20 oz. Fine Hair Line, One-Half Layout: 3.200 ends. ll%/4 reed. 69%" Inside listing plus 1%" for listing = 71" over all. Warp pattern: 4. Black and white S X 8 D. and T., 22 turns per inch, ri^ht twist. 4. Black, 4 run single, right twist. Filling pattern: 2. Black, 4 run single, right twist. 2. Black and white 8 X 8 D. and T. 6% take-up In twisting yarns. Weaving chain on S harnesses. 2 harnesses for listing. Straight draw. Design No. 1. . □OBQBDBB T-i.t H ■DDD»»»n T»i.,t 2 ■DBBrCBD BI«ok ^ ■■■QBCCn Blact y DCBnBDBB I»i.-t H BOCCBBBa T.i.i (l, BOBBDCBO Bladi BBBDBCnn Black 10 oz. black @ $.2160 per lb....= % .1350 10 oz. light grey @ $.2700 per lb. = .1700 Manufacturing 2 5 picks (iy % .3050 % .6675 Fine Worsted Layout: 5.600 ends. 2/40s worsted. ]3iA/6 reed. 69" inside listing plus 1" for listing over all. Warp pattern: 4. White 2/40S. 4. Black 2/40S. Design No. 2. aDa~anBB White ■ODDBBBa White BDBBUaBD Biack BBBGB^UG Block GDBUBGBB White BDaOBBBa ■n hite BGBBDaBn Biack ■■BGBGna Bluik =P o , -^^j^,^^ s-=3:3 ^ 3S§ C=t£t:^g5„g Double and Twist Yarns. CALCULATIONS. 1,600 ends 8X8 twist -I- 6% take-up = 3.76 runs — 4.25 oz. 1.600 ends 4 run = 4.00 oz. 71" X 44 picks = 3,124. 1,562 threads 8X8 twist + 6% take-up ^ 4.15 oz. 1,562 threads 4 run ^ 3.90 oz. 16.30 oz. Plus 10% take-up = 1.63 oz. Loom weight 17.93 oz. 4.25 oz. twist warp. 4.15 oz. twist filling. 8.40 oz. 4- 10% waste = 9.33 oz. 4.00 oz. black warp. 3.90 oz. black filling. 7.90 oz. -t- 15%, waste = 9.30 oz. Stock for twisting yarns: Fine picklock wool @ 68c. per lb. Stock for black yarn: 60% fine med. wool Oi 56c = % .3360 40% fine shoddy tg) 24c = .0960 Cost per pound % .4320 9.33 oz. twist ei 68c. per lb = % .3965 9.30 oz. black @ J. 4320 per lb..= .2511 % .6476 Manufacturing: 44 picks ffl $.8600 = .3784 Extra for twist 0240 iMIll cost $1.0500 2x2 Line. Filling pattern: 2. Black 2/4I1S. 2. White 2/40S. 66 picks. Weave chain: Straight draw. 8 harness. 2 harnesses for listing. CALCULATIONS. 5.600 ends 2/40s = 8.00 o.^ lO X 66 picks = 6.32 oz. ,„ , l-t.31 oz. Plus 10% take-up = 1.43 oz. Loom weight 16.74 oz. 2/40s worsted 15 -Yi oz. -f 6% waste = 16.75 oz. (a) $1 per ,, "', ■■■ - = $1.0469 iSlanufacturing cost and charges 4620 Ml" cost $1.5089 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 271 In the finishing of these hair line worsteds tliey are improved in han- dle by giving the goods a slight filling. Goods should be scoured first and dried out, then examined for imperfections, which should be carefully re- paired. The goods are then fulled with a good neutral soap for 30 to 50 min- utes, or possibly longer — it will depend largely on conditions. Dry at 57 Fine Hair Line, One-half Double and Twist Yarn. inches. Steam, brush and shear. Press medium hard, blowing steam on face of goods. Keep on roll all night. If this fabric is made in double and twist or mixture yarns, which will cost 25 cents per pound more than regu- lar yarns, it would add to the cost of stock at least 10 cents to 12% cents a yard, but as there would be labor charges for dyeing, winding and spooling, there would be a slight reduction in the manufacturing cost. COVERTS AND VENETIANS This cloth received its name in England many years ago, because it was used at one time almost exclusively as a sportsman's cloth for shoot- ing coats, etc., its neutral tones of color blending with the rocky ridges and stones, als ) with the autumn shades of heather, furze and grasses, making it an ideal cloth for use in the coverts, which is the English term for the hiding places of the game birds. Hence, the name "covert cloth" was ap- plied to this particular cloth. The cloth is now used extensively for men's spring and fall overcoatings, ladies' wear skirts, sjitings and cloakings, although the ladies' trade use more of the single yarn coverts in mixtures, etc. The real covert cloth is always made from double and twist warp yarns, with single yarn fillings, but, as noted above, many cloths are called coverts because they are woven with the covert weave, but are made of single yarns. The so-called single yarn coverts are really Venetians, and are known as auch by all manufacturers. There is always considerable latitude allowed in the trade regarding the name or style of a fabric, especially in the ladies' wear, and we can find many different fabrics, all known as coverts in the cloaking trade, and while most of them have some of the characteristics of coverts, yet they are not the genuine covert as judged from the woolen manufacturer's point of view. 272 WOOLEN AND. WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY There seems to be a leaning at present toward this one-time popular cloth, and it is noted in the English fashion reports that it is again gaining in pcpularity. There is every reason to believe that it will once more become a leading fabric in this market, an-d a brief outline on dif- ferent malies of Venetian and coverts, with suggestions regarding their manufacture may not be amiss, as we shall take up yarns and weaves used in a few of the more expensive heavy-weight English Venetian cov- erts, with some points in tlieir construction and manufacture. Heavy-Weight Covert Cloaking. A heavy-weight Venetian covert cloaking, with a pronounced whipcord effect, is made with a 15-harness sateen weave, as shown in Design No. 1. This weave is better adapted for fine yams in mixtures than in the twist yarns. The warp yarn may be in a lawn mixture shade or in a khaki shade in mixture, while the filling should be a similar tone of color, but a solid shade, that is, all dyed in the stock and without any admixture of white or fancy colors. The weave is so constructed that the filling yam does not show jn the face of the goods, and almost any shade, similar in the general tone of the warp, may be used as a filling. An excellent warp mixture is 65 per cent of a light fawn wool, 25 per cent white wool, 5 per cent brilliant green wool and 5 per cent old gold wool, spun to 6 run right twist, with filling of a solid fawn shade, spun to 3 run right twist. In making the selection of wools for the percentages of white and fancy colors for this mixture, it is absolutely necessary to get the best quality of AA pulled wool, which will largely eliminate any danger of specks or nibs in the carding. Unless the cards are in first-class condition, no one should attempt to make this yarn, as any speokledness in the mixture would azm'_ ZB ..." _zzzz □zb: :naBD cz;,i ..:" z»_ZG»a Ll:zl_i_. ._■ :icza DBZ..zril _i_zz.zz Design No. 1. ruin the goods and give them a cheap appearance, and no amount of work afterward in the finishing department will overcome any Imperfection of mixture in the carding. It is the clear, perfect mixture in the warp face of these goods which gives to them the snappy character, and lifts the cloth out of the common run of Venetians. Layout for DeBigrn No. 1 : 5.760 ends. 72" wide in reed. Reed 16,5 in dent. 76 picks. Warp yarn; 6 run. riglit twist. Prilling yarn: 3 run, riglit twist. Looin weiglit 32 oz. Finistied weiglit 29 oz. 54" inside listing. This cloth should be woven face down, and the weave plan is marked out that way. Weave twill to right on face. In finishing it should be fulled in length at least 7 or 8 per cent, which will cause it to hold about 5 pei cent shrinkage in length when finished. Take out of fulling mills at 56% WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 273 inches inside of lists. Goods should be woven with a wi-de special listing, and goods should be tacked together at listing, face ot goods inside. This tacking togetlier of the lists is necessary to prevent rolling of the lists when fulling. If not tacked, tlie piece would roll up in a rope the entire length, and it continued to run in tlils condition in the fulling mill would completely ruin the goods. Fulling and After fulling and scouring, the g old teasels, giving a few runs, not t the fibres on face, so it will be possi sheared. After giving it a few runs o end, and give it a few runs at a lowe smart, clean appearance and bring ou well, press medium, giving a littlo s Keep on roll for 10 to 12 hours befor A much neater design than the 10-harness sateen, as shown is also adapted more for a fine mixt could be made in fine worsted in ways been a favorite one for ladies' It makes a fabric which drapes well, same time it is solid enough in tex a close-fitting garment. It is not s unless a bold Venetian effect is want The usual weave for men's wea doeskin weave. Figure 3, and for men Scouring. oods should be put on a wet gig, using cause a nap, but to straighten out ble to get a clear, smart finish when n sliears, reverse the piece end for r notch, which will give the goods a t the whipcord eff3ct. Steam brush team on face as the piece is rolled up. e unrolling, the foregoing may be made on in Design No. 2. This weave are warp than for twist yarns, but it two-tone twists. This weave has al- cloths, such as cloakings- or coatings. if fashion so demands it, and at the ture to hold its shape if made up in uch a popular weave for men's wear, ed. r Venetians is the regular 5-harness s wear coverts, twist warps, Figure 4. Figure 3. 5 harness doeskin. ■ DBDn ■ UBja Figure 4. 5 harness covert. Layout for 10 harness sateen cloth: 5.320 ends. 71" wide in reed. 15 Reed. 5 in dent. 60 piclcs per inch. Warp mixture: 6 run yarn, right twist. Filling: Solid sl-iade 3 run yarn, right twist. Loom weight 24 oz. Finislied weigiit 2 oz. 54" wide. Manufacturing particulars same as the 15 harness sateen. 11 anyone desires a still lighter weight cloth than the above two ex- amples, 10 and 15 harness, and at the same time retain a like balance of structure, it would be necessary to use an 8-harness sateen weave, and a finer spun filling, if it is desired to make it in woolen yarns. For in- stance, if one desired to make a 16-ounce cloth, but having the same balance of structure and character as fabric No. 2, a satisfactory layout would be as follows: r^ayout for 8 harness sateen cloth: 6,320 ends. 71" wide in reed. Reed 15.5 in dent. 54 piclts per inch. Warp mixture: 6 run yarn, right t^^'ist. Filling: 3 1^ run yarn, rigiit twist. I^oom weight 20 oz. Finished weight 16 oz. □nBDDBnn namaaaam ODD BGnB Duaauana DmaDaama raaunauD ■DaBDODD ■nnna»Dn 274 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY These three examples are good, high-grade Venetian coverts for ladies' wear, and while they are not difficult goods to make, it requires care and watchfulness in selecting the right stock for the warp mixtures. As men- tioned before, the mixture must he carded free from any nibs or specks, and the yarns should be smooth, round and level. Any roughness of the yarns detracts from the sightliness of the goods. A manufacturer would express it that the yarn should have a "skin" to it, meaning smooth and even. It is such yarns that give beauty and character to the goods, some- thing distinctive in itself, like that innate goo-d breeding which is the dis- tinctive character of a gentleman.' It is always more satisfactory to weave all of these sateen weaves with the face down. This is self-evident, if one will look at the weave chains. Take the 15-harness sateen. It this was woven face up, each warp thread would be raised up 13 times consecutively, and then down for 2 picks. In other words, 13 harnesses would have to be raised up each pick, and if it was being woven in an open shed loom there would be great danger of warp threads floating, causing itt. perfections in the cloth. These weaving chains are, therefore, made out to weave face down. Cheap Attractive Venetian Covert. A cheap and yet an attractive Venetian covert can be made as a piece- dyed fabric, union mixture. They are made with different percentages of cotton, but if over 30 per cent is used, the cloth will handle cottony and hard. The cotton is mixed with the wool stock previous to carding, and in order to produce a satisfactory fabric, free from cotton specks, it is ab- solutely necessary to use a double-combed cotton stock. This will cost a good deal more than the ordinary carded cotton, but it is the only safe stock to use when making this kind of a fabric. The best carded or double- carded cotton stock cannot be depended upon, as it will show up most un- expectedly small specks after the goods are dyed, and the darker the shades of the goods the more pronounced will be the specks. These specks are generally so small that they cannot be detected in the yarns, and will not show until after dyeing, the carding, spinning and weaving being all done in the wliite stock. The overseers and superintendent, unless ex- perienced in such goods, would not suspect that the yarns would show specky. The writer knows of a case of this kind where several hundred pieces in process were all more or less specky, and it was not known or suspected until the first pieces were dyed. These specks are caused by the tact that in carding very little of the short fibres of the cotton are taken out, the object of carding being to take out dirt and nibs, and lay the fibres parallel, including both long and short staple fibres. In the process of combing the cotton stock, the object is to remove all nibs and short fibres, retaining only the longer staple, and lay them parallel with each other. Thus you will readily see why the combed cotton stock is the proper stock to use in making this fabric. If this union mixture in Venetian is properly made and dyed into the fashionable shades of costume cloths, it will compare very favorably in appearance with the higher grades of all wools. The yarn should be spun soft, with just enough twist in the warp yarn to insure good weaving, and the filling yarn just twist enough to weave well. Layout for piece-dyed cotton mix. Venetian: Warp: 4,000 ends- 4»i run, left twist, 34 holes; twist on a Davis & Furber mule. Reed 15.4 In dent. Filling-: 66 2-3" inside list plus 1 V3 " for listing 40 picks per incli, ^ 6S" over all, 2 Va run yarn, left twist. Weave: S harness doeslcin. straight draft. 2 harnesses for listing. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 276 DDCDDBDa -1,000 ends 4% run warp = 8.42 GnuaDGUB + 10% take-up QDaaBGGU 6S" X 40 picks = 1,920. □■GGGDGG l,9i;o :; >,i run filling = 1,2S4 + GGGBaGGG ^"'''^ ™ea->'ins take-up = 14,12oz. ■GGGGGQG IjOom weiglit 23.38 oz. Warp stock mixture: 30%, white dou. combed cotton @ I'-O oz. yarn warp -|- S% waste ^4c = $ .0720 allowance ^ 10 02. (0> 3Sc. per 20% wliite fine wool cari). ]^iill cost $.S63i 3Sc = .0760 30% white fine shoddy @ 30c... = .0900 26% white light fawn shoddy i& 20c = .0500 Cost per pound $ .2560 Pull to 56 inches in width, inside list. Shrink in length to hold 5 per cent when finished. Scour thoroughly, using plenty of warm water In washing off, in order to insure against any soap being left in the goods. It is always a sate plan to add a few" quarts of ammonia to the last scour- ing bath, which will quickly emulsify any soap, and i^llow of its being read- ily washed out by the warm water. After scouring, the goods are ready for the dyeing process, and before dyeing the pieces should be run in boiling water with a little ammonia added as a precautionary measure against any possibility of soap or grease being yet in the goods. Some soaps of the cheap- er grades are made from impure ingredients, and adulterations are ex- tremely hard to get washed out, and as these cloakings have to be -dyed into many very delicate shades, tlia slightest trace of any foreign matter in the pieces will cause uneven dyeing and streaky goods, and once pieces are un- even or clouded in the dyeing it is impossible to remedy the unevenness without first stripping off all the color and re-dyeing again. All of this costs time and money, and besides the goods never handle so well after- wards. Any pt;-ipping and re-dyeing is always at the expense of the ap- pearance and handle of the goods, and prevention of the trouble is much better than correction afterward, and, as mentioned above, a little ammo- nia added to the last scouring bath will be of great help in thoroughly cleansing the goods. The action of ammonia in emulsifying all fatty acids is very strong, and is much more rapid in its action than either soda or potash liquors. It has the peculiar property of increasing the action of other alkalies in scouring of woolens and when used in the scouring process will insure a more thorough emulsifi cation of all fatty acids, and, conse- quently, a cleaner piece of goods, and level shades in the dyehouse. Am- monia may be used to advantage in both finishing room and dyehouse, with- out any danger of injjring either goods or colors, provided reasonable care is exercised in its use, and that it is properly diluted. There are several colors, however, which are changed sou'ewhat by ammonia fumes or by coming in contact with a solution of ammonia. For instance, acid colors, in delicate shades, are always altered by ammonia fumes, or on com- ing in contact with any alkali, and goods dyed with acid color should not be allowed to come in contact with any alkali. Ammonia should not be used in the fulling mills, or in any machine where it may come in contact with brass or copper rolls, because a strong solution, when it comes in con- tact will such metals, will form at once cupramnionia, and cause a stain on white or light colored woolen goods, which no amount of washing will remove, and as such stains have a strong affinity i-r dyes, it will show much 276 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY darker after dyeing. Such stains on tliis Venetian- fabric would scarcely be noticed before dyeing, but afterward will show up quite distinctly, and cannot be removed. These goods are dyed with wool dyes, after being given a light chroni- ing, such shades as light and medium tones of fawn, light olive, khaki shades, light blues and black. The mixture effect is caused by the white cotton in the stock mixture, which is not colored by the wool dye, and, therefore, shows equal to a 30 per cent white mixture. The fabric may also be dyed into solid shades by using union dyestuffs, coloring similai shades as above, but the fabric is not so attractive, as it lacks the mixture effect. When colored in solid shades, it is not necessary to use combed cotton in the stock mixture, the ordinary carded cotton being quite good enough, as in solid shades colored with union dyes there is not any danger of specks. Another Piece-Dyed, Cotton Mixture Covert. Another piece-dyed, cotton mixture covert fo- ladies' spring and fall coatings is made with a fine white cotton thread twisted with anotlier and heavier spun yarn. Tliis yarn may also be a union mixture, that is, a mixture of cotton and wool carded and spun to- gether. The white cotton thread should be much finer than the union mixture yarn. If this thread is heavy it will make the fabric look open and ccarpe and also gives a hard cottony handle. A good proportion would be a union mixture of 30 per cent carded cotton with 70 per cent fine wool fpun to 4% run left soft twist — about 19-20 holes of twist on a Davis and Furbei- mule. This yarn is twisted right twist with a 40s white cotton thread. IS turns per inch. The 30 per cent carded cotton is colored a fast shade of stone drab before being mixed in the hatch, and dye must be fast to cross dyeing. The percentage of wool should be a fine short staple grade tree from any shive or burr. A good fall California carbonized and neutral- izedized is a good wool to use. and there can also be a percentage of garnet- ted white yarn waste. This fabric requires a nice level thread, because any unevenness will show up very strong after being twisted with the white cotton thread, and as the yarns are carded, spun and woven, in a very light shade, any unevenness will not be so easily detected until after the goods are dyed and finished, and as there would naturally be many pieces in proc- ess, the loss would be quite serious if much uneven yarn was allowed to pass. Hence the carding and spinning overseers must give special atten- tion to the product as it passes throueh their respective departments. As the yarns are quite fine, if properly prepared and carded, a spinner should be able to run two mules, say, 600 to SOO spindles on piece work, and get off a good production also. Weavers should operate two looms on such work, which would lessen the labor costs by at least one-third of the usual cost on regular goods. "UTien getting ready to twist tlie spun yarn with the white cotton thread, it is usual to spool the two yarns together, and careful attention should be given to the tension on the several threads, so that the twist may be as perfect as possible. Twisting may be done on either mules or on regular twisting machines. Layout for 14 oz. pieoo-d.vpd double and Filling:. tT\-ist union covert: 2, SOO ends, s.r. reed 70" Inside listing + 1" over all. Yarns: Union mix >'rirn, 4^4 run. left t^vist, soft twisted A\ith l'40s cotton peeler combed y.irn: twisted IS titrns per inch to right. Dra^\' straiglit on 10 harnesses. 2 harnesses for listing. 1 :"v "rnn. left ; twist. JO picks. isting = 71" DBB^B^BBDB CB'ZBBnBrBB BBCB.r«B-BD BOBBCBGBBn BGBnBBDBDB WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 277 CALCULATIONS. Single 40s combed peelers, on cones, 40c. 2,S0O ends 4% run = 5.SS oz. + ^ P^'' 'b- 6%. twisting take-up = 0.23 oz. 'i-'ii °^- ">?,''.P' li.sOO ends l/40a = 1.33 oz. + '35 oz. filling. 10% twisting take-up = 1.46 oz. 7-— , ,„^ 71" X 40 picks = 2 S40 ll.jnoz. + 10<7o waste allowance 2,840 -^ 4% run fllilng"' = ' 6.60 oz. fllling. = ^^.CO oz. @ $.3560 per B.23 oz. + 10% weaving take- ,,.,, "^-^ ; ■ • - ;'--;,"^ $.3471 up == 6 Sj oz ^-^^ '-'^- cotton + 3% waste allow- 1.46 oz'.' ■ +■ 'io^o'iveaving'take- ance = 1.60 oz. @ 40c. up ....= I.6O0Z. per lb 0412 6.50 oz. + 10% weaving take- up Manufacturing cost (2 loom work); $ .3SS3 Loom weiglit 15.S0 oz. ■"' P'^'^^ 2400 Finished weight 14 oz. Warp and filling stock mixture; 30% carded cotton, dyed, @ lOc^ $ .04S0 707o fine short wool, carb., @ 41c. ^ .30S0 $ .3060 These goods are fulled In the grease, giving tliem a slight shrinkage in length, so they will finish loom length. Give a thorough scouring and wash oft with plenty of warm water, using a little ammonia in the last scour- ing to insure freedom from soap. Goods are now ready for dyeing, but pre-- vious to dyeing they should be run in boiling water, as recommended for the cotton mixture Venetian cloth. Chrome lightly, and dye to shade with wool dyes, which have no affinity for cotton. The white cotton thread should show up clear white, as any stain on this cotton thread caused by a poor se- lection of dyestuffs or improper handling in the process, will give the goods a muddy appearance, and detract from their selling value. It the finishing room is equipped with a sand papering machine it will greatly improve their appearance and handle it given a few runs on it. Finish clear, press medium. Finish 55 inches inside listing. To compete successfully in the manufacture of this class of goods, the mill should have its own carbonizing plant, so it would be possible to buy detective or hurry California wools, and do all its own carbonizing and neu- tralizing. , Men's Wear, Fine All-Wool Covert. Double and Twist Warp. This is the genuine covert cloth which was named "covert cloth" in England many decades ago. This cloth is usually considered one of the hardest cloths to make perfect, as any imperfection or irregularity in the yarns before being twisted, and any variation in the twist will make a streaky piece of goods. Those mills which have tried to make this cloth and failed to turn them out satisfactorily, failed because they did not give proper attention to the selection of the proper wools. Given the proper wools tor making a good level thread, and ordinary care exercised in the details of manufacture, any well-equipped mill should be able to turn out a reasonably perfect piece of twist covert. No mill should undertake to make them unless its card room is well equipped, card machines well clothed, doffer rings in perfect condition. The mules should be also in good condition. No loose collars or collar-boards. No wornout steps. Feed rolls should be true and smooth, any creases will make imperfect yarns. Spindles bands should be renewed, and every endeavor made to get equal tension on every spindle. Spinners must not be allowed to pick up and piece ends after the carriage is out, as such would make a heavy thread whenever it is done. An Old Adage. There is an old adage in Yorkshire. "That stock well carded is half Fpun and yarns well spun are half woven, while cloth well woven is half finished, and goods well finished are half sold," This is quite true in a general sense, as any concern turning out satisfactory goods, right up in style. fabric, and finish, having few imperfections or allowances, is soon recognized 278 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY by the trade as a dependable and sat buyers will naturally seek to place th tatlon for delivering satisfactory goo from imperfections of weave or yams, to the manufacture of these twist c free from twits, a nice even roping w necessary to procure an even twist f ful selection. For the white yarn th finest selections from XXX Ohio or s isfactory concern to deal with, and eir orders with a mill having a repu- ds, well finished, and practically free The above adage is very applicable overts. Stock well carded, that is, ill give a round, smooth yarn, that is or this cloth. The stock requires care- e wools should be "pick lock" the imilar wools. The colored yarn may 14-Cunce DouLile and Twist U.nion Co vert. (Piece-Dyed.) be from the next grade, but it is no much. The best is none too good to s scouring of the wool and the dyeing judgment on the part of the overseer, felted in the slightest, but should co open as uncolored stock. Cold wat stocks when washing off at the dye k ual. Run about half the hot liquor o will bring the temperature to about water, and then run off. If the stoc ment the carder should have no trou stock is matted or felted in the dve tain good results in carding, and with satisfactory in succeeding departmen couraging. t economy to lower the quality very pin to 7 run and 10% ru-i yarns. The requires careful attention and good The wool must not be matted or me out of the kettles as lofty and er should not be turned on the ettles, but the change should be grad- ff, then turn on the cold water, which 130 degrees, pole the stock in this k is properly handled in this depart- ble in getting good results, but if the ing, it is practically impossible to ob- out good carding it will be very un- ts, and the final result will be dis- An Open Question. Presuming now that the yarns ar for twisting. The best method to co to spool the yarns on separate spool facturers prefer spooling the yarn on colored, alternately. It is an open ques but whatever method is used, it is cer yarns previous to twisting, as there and consequently r more even twist, be inspected, and any uneven twist laid aside. The twist yarns being n e well carded, spun, and bobbins ready mbine the two threads for twisting is s, 20 threads to a spool. Some manu- one spool, one thread white, one thread tion as to which is the better method, tainly the best policy to spool the is a more even tension to the threads, After twisting, every bobbin should ed bobbins should be sorted out and ow ready for spooling previous to WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 279 dressing, all guide and tension hooks should be examined, and if any hooks or guides are cut and worn, they should be replaced as any inequal- ity in the tension of the threads will cause imperfections. The reed in the loom should also be examined for uneven dents, as wide or narrow spaces will cause streaks or reed marks, which cannot be overcome afterwards. Examine carefully from weave room, mark all imperfections of weave or yarn, and have them corrected by an experienced sewer. Goods may be fulled in the grease, using a good bodied soap free from cheap adultera- tions. It will take from 2 to 2% hours to full, it is also necessary to overhaul the pieces during the process of fulling. Take and snap out the cloth to prevent mill wrinkles, which are caused by the goods running continuously in the one fold. Goods should be fulled in length at least 6 per cent or 8 per cent, which will give them a full clothy handle. After scouring, they should be given a wet gigging on old teasels or on a fibre brush gig, and rolled up wet over night. Extract and dry next day at 57 inches wide. Shear, steam, brush, press medium pressure. They may then be given a cold water shrink and plate Dressed. Lajout for men's wear double and twist W;irp yarns yarns: 1 thread 7 run, left t\\'ist, dark shade. 3. sod ends. 1 thread 10 1^ run, left twist, white. 14^/^/4 reed. Twisted 24 turns per inch, right twist, 65^,^" Inside listing plus 1" for listing = Tali^mHA^Miiii Cotton Mix Fancy Cassimere- the goods, and especially so if the wa lime in solution. It will not only se but it will form an insoluble lime soa out by any after treatment, and any s render them stiff and clammy to the f would appear soft and woolly. It greatly improves the handle o few runs on a wire napper before fu on back, not to raise much or any na face and soften it. Then the subse ing will increase the softness and en AVhen drying such goods see tha and do not dry at too high a tempera them a harsh and stiff handle, yet t run off the machine. Shear on face, b Dnly, and leave all the fine bottom t but very little steam, as any damp will cai'se them to feel stiff" and h'lr light steam on face as the pieces ar until next day. Success in manufacturing this o principally on economy in productio ter is hard, containing more or less t any residue of soap in the goods p wliich is almost impossible to get oap left in cotton mixed goods will eel, while if thoroughly rinsed, they f these goods if they can be given a lling, say two runs on face and one p, but just enough to scratch the sur- quent operations of fulling and scour- hance the appearance. t they are thoroughly extracted first, ture, as too hasty drying will give hey must be thoroughly dry when ut not too close, cut off long fibres o give softness. Give a run on brush, ness in such goods at time of pressing d. Press lightly, and give a very e going onto the roll. Leave on roll r any other kind of goods depends n. Always aim to have the stock good WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 289 enough to carry its own manufacturi soft waste should never be allowed t management both in the superintend should always be used up in succeed grade of goods, and in the case of o always be dyed black and put into 1 goods. No manufacturer to-day can sue any grade of goods if he is content t competitors. Contentment and succe hands. The man who is always tryi style, will come out ahead, while th the race, and will wonder how it is t luck to keep his looms running all th a natural law, "the survival of the fit ng waste, as carding and spinning accumulate. It is a sign of bad ent and the carding overseer, and ing batches of the same shade and dd mi.xed lots and colors, they can ots or batches of the same grade of ceed and keep in the front rank in have his goods just the same as his ss are incompatible and cannot join ng to improve, either in quality or e contented man will be forced out of hat the other man is having such good e time. It is simply the fulfillment of test." Layout for Cotton Mixed Cassimere: 2,560 ends. 10/4 reed. 64" Inside list, plus 1" for list. over all. 42 picks per inch. Warp yarn; 4^ run. right twist, soft. Filling yarn: 41/^ run, right twist, soft. .Stock mi.xture for white: G0% wliite peeler comher waste Hi ll'c = $ .0720 10% white line wool carbonized (>il 54c = .0640 15% white fine noil carbonized ifi) 40c = .0600 15% white fine shoddy @ 30c... .= .0450 Cost per pound % .2310 .Stock mi.xture for black: 50% fast black cotton @ 12c.... = $ .0600 15% fine black wool @ 54c = .0810 35% fine black shoddy @ 14c... = .0490 Cost per pound % .1900 CALCULATIONS. 2,560 ends 414 run = 6.00 oz. weaving take-up ^ 6 65" X 42 picks = 2,730 — 41/3 run ^ 6.06 oz. -1- 10%, weaving- take-up ^ 6 Loom weight 13, Finished weight 11 Vs oz. 6.60 oz. white yarn -I- 6% waste allowance = 7.21 oz, @ $.2310 per lb = % 6.66 oz. black yarn -f- 10% waste allowance = 7.40 oz. © $.1900 per lb ^= 10% 60 oz. Cost of stock Manufacturing cost: 42 picks @ $.0088 $ .= $ 1041 0879 1920 3696 5616 Warp patt 2. White 2, Black 2. White Black ;rn : 434 run A% run, 4 % run, 4 % run, 1, Lavender fancy 1. White 1. White 2. Black 2, White 2. Black 2. White 2. Black 2. White 2. Black 2. White soft twist, soft twist, soft twist, soft twist, right twist. right right right right 4 run mercerized cotton 2/26s, 4 Vi run, right soft twist. 414 run, right soft twnst. 4^ run, right soft twist. 414 run, right soft twist. 4 'A run, right soft twist. 4^ run. right soft twist, right soft twist right soft twist Black 4 "4 White 414 Black 414 White 414 Black 4^ White 414 Bhick 41,4 White 414 Black 4^4 White 414 Black 414 White 414 Black i'.'i White 4i,i Black 414 White 414 Black 4% White 414 Black 414 White 414 Black 4il White 414 Wiiite me Jjii vender Black 414 run, run, run. run, run, run. run, run, run, run, run, run, run, run. run, run, run. run, run, run, run. run rceriz f a n r run right soft light soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft right soft riglit soft riglit soft right soft right soft :ed cotton ight soft twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist, twist. 2/26S. ight twist twist. 320 threads in section. 8 sections. \\hite 4 li> run, riglit soft twist. Blatk 4',i run, right soft twist. 414 run. right soft twist. picks per Inch. 290 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY -■■l_«o__B« a 11 ■ ■^iaBZ_.BB __._■■ \'> ■:,::i.BB um_»m^ -^-■Bzan, .HH^.L.!] ^mu:_^_»m BB„a ■ ■_LBB_iia ■a_ ■ - ■■ BliZ.fciB ■■_ZBM__M«1_B 1 -.■■"la* iibLj y ■ ^^ "■■__■• _Biia ■■i_ Manufacturing and finishing parti culars same as the 13-oz. melton. 32-oz. Fine All-Wool, High-Grade Fabric. This layout is a standard fabric made by one of the finest worsted and woolen mills in the country, whose cloths have always been held up as par excellence in fabric and finish. The aim of this mill has been to put on the market a melton cloth equal to the famous Carr melton, which stands at the head of the melton cloths in England. This cloth shows a large num- ber of ends, and is set wide in the loom, necessitating a long fulling. The construction is somewhat different from the usual way, in that the filling 294 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY yarn is spun i^-run heavier tlian the warp yarn, wliile in almost every other case the filling is spun finer, and is generally accepted as being the best method of construction. The reason for reversing the usual method was the desire to put into the filling stock quite a percentage of fine Aus- tralian noils to produce an extra heavy felt on the goods. If the filling naa been spun finer it would not have been possible to put in so much ot the fine noils, but with the heavier yarn it is permissable, and at the same time there was less twist put into the yarn to retain the necessary strength. The warp yarn was spun from a fine quality wool, with a small percentage of noils, making a strong yarn, which was necessary to in- jure good weaving, as the picks called for were nearly all that were pos- sible to put into the cloth at the loom. 5,320 enda. Loom weight 32 oz. per yard. 14^.4 reed. Finished weigtit 32 oz. per yard. 91%" inside list, plus 2" for listing = In order to hnish this weight it is necea- 93%" over all. sary to shrinlc the i)iece 20% in length. 0,320 ends -^ 54" finished ^ flS^ threads Warp yarn; per inch finished. 4 run, right twist. 00 picks -j- 20% shrinkage in length = 75 threads per inch finished. Filling yarn: 4 run yarn = 1/SO of an inch in diameter. 3^.2 run, left twist, spun soft. 3 Vi run yarn = 1/75 of an inch in dlani- 00 picks per inch. elei. This gives a mean diameter of 1-79 per inch, which shows that in a plain weave 39.5 threads warp and filling could be put in a square inch ot cloth without undue com- pression, and as the weave used is a double cloth warp and filling, it will al- low of this heavy setting of the warp. At first glance one would say that it had almost reached the limit, and that it would be extra hard fulling in width, but you will see by the analysis of structure that, owing to the fewer threads per inch in filling, it permits of a closer compression of the warp yarns. The Finished Cloth. As above noted, the finished cloth shows 98% threads per inch in the warp, and the mean diameter of the yarns will allow of 39.5 threads in a single cloth plain weave per inch, which would equal 79 threads in a double cloth weave, while in the filling there will only be 75 threads per inch in the finished cloth, which is four picks under the limit, even with- out any compression of the threads. The above will show that the warp yarn will have to be compressed in the fulling 20 per cent, or, to express it in inches, it means 13 1-3 inches of compression or felting in width. If the number of threads per inch in the filling were equal to the threads per inch of warp, it would not be possible to get this amount ot fulling on the goods, and it is this fact that permits of the cloth being fulled to the required width. Note the face and back weaves. You will see that the warp yarns are floated 3 up and 1 down on face, while the back weave is the face weave reversed. This weave allows of the warp yarns lying close together, as the filling intersections are few. Face weave. Back weave. Complete weave on 16 harness. =■■■ Z ■ ■■G O ■=■■ C£ ■■=■ r Back weave ^"■~ ^zz.m CB-:; z ■::cz o □ ZBJ C^=B zmz^ t. ■ u^D Weave for 32-oz. Melton. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 295 Manufacturing and finishing particulars same as tlie 13-oz. melton. It is pos-sible, of course, to construct a much cheaper grade of mel- ton tlian these two latter heavy-weight cloths by using shoddy in the blend, and spinning heavier yarns. This would call for a change in cloth structure from a -double to a single cloth weave, which will be taken up later. 13-oz. MELTON. 22-oz. MELTON. COST CALCULATIONS. COST CALCULATIONS. 2. SSO ends 4V2 run warp = 6...O0Z. 4,S00 ends 4 run warp = 12.00oz. S2 X 44 = 3, 60S 6 run filling... = 6.00 oz. S2 X 50 = 4,100 -^ m run flll'g= 9.11 oz. Plus 6% take-up ^ .75 oz. 21.11 oz. Loom weight 13.16 oz. Plus 10% take-up = 2.11 oz. 13.15 oz. plus 8% waste allow- ance — 14.3 oz. Loom weight 23.22 oz. Finished weigiit 13 oz. :^;l,22 oz. plus 8% waste allow- 14.3 oz. fine grade wool @ 66c.. = $ .6899 '"""^e = -E'--' °^- "' stock. Plus 16%, shrinkage In lengtti...= .0943 Finished weight 22 oz. --; — ^rrr 25.27 oz. -1- I6 2/3% shrinkage In ♦ ■'>'■*- length = 30 02. @ 66c. per ib.= J1.2375 Manufacturing cost: Manul'acturlng cost: 44 picks 5-0086 = $ .3784 50 picks @ $.0080 = I .4000 Plus 16% shrinkage in length... = .0606 Plus 16 2/3% shrink'ge in lenEth= .0666 $1.1232 Mill cost $1.7041 32-oz. MELTON. COST C-4LCULATI0NS. 5.320 ends 4 run warp = 13.30 oz. 93%" X 60 picks = 6,626 -:- 3V4 filling = 16.00 oz. Plus 10% take-up = 2.96 oz. Loom weight 32.25 oz. Finished weight 32 oz. 32.25 oz. -t- 10% waste allow- ance ^ 3 5.83 oz. 36.83 oz. -f 20% shrinkage in length = 43.00 oz. 43 oz. fine wool and Australian noils @ 66c = $1.7737 Manufacturing costs: 60 picks @ $.7000 = .4200 Plus 20% shrinkage in length... = .0840 Mill cost $2.2777 BROADCLOTHS There are always many varieties in quality and weight or broadcloths, running from the fine worsted warps, 8% ounces per yard, or even light- er, up to 12 to 14 ounces per yard, 5 4 to 55 inches wide. The lighter weights are used for dress suitings and opera cloakings, and the heavier cloths for misses' and ladies' spring cloakings and jackets. Of late years the worsted warp goods have been the favorite cloth, as there is a crisp- ness to the worsted yarn that cannot be obtained in an all-wool spun yarn, and this crispness gives a certain character to the cloth which cannot be imitated in the wool spun. There Is also the question of weight to be con- sidered, and if any one attempted to spin wool yarns fine enough to make an 8-ounce broadcloth of the same texture as a worsted warp it would be too costly a piece of goods, and then it would not have that distinctive crispness, for by the combing and drawing in the manufacture of worsted yarns it is possible to spin a finer thread out of a given grade of wool than can be done by carding and spinning woolen process. These worsted warp fabrics require a large number of warp ends, also 296 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY more picks per inch ttLan an ordinary wool spun fabric. This fact is gen- erally understood, that the lighter the weight of the cloth the finer the yam and the more ends per inch warp and filling are required in order to produce a fabric lighter in weight but equal in structure to a heavier cloth. No mill should attempt to make these goods unless it is properly equipped with the necessary machinery for such work. In order to compete successfully, it should have modern high-speed looms. It is even better if it is equipped with the automatic magazine loom for worsteds, which would make it possible for a weaver to run four looms in place of two of the ordinary looms. The dressing room must have the sizing and drying coils attached to the dressing frames, as these yarns must be well sized to prevent chaffing in the loom. The finishing depart- ment should have a crabbing machine, and fulling mills built especially for light-weight goods, as the ordinary fulling mill, built for the general run of woolen goods, is too heavy in the rolls and the cramping boxes are too large. Delicate Shades. A manufacturer must also bear in mind that any mill making these delicate shades must be run entirely on white yarns, for if they have any colored stocks running in the carding and spinning rooms, or even dark colored goods going through the finishing room, it would not be pos- sible to keep the delicate shades free from dark colored fiy. Mills making such goods have found it absolutely necessary to have a department in the finishing room entirely separated and equipped with all the machinery nec- essary, which is used only on light and delicate shades. There must be separate nappers or gigs, carbonizing dryers, brushes, shears, presses, etc., as that is the only way to clear shades free from colored fly. Equal care must be exercised in the dyehouse — special kettles, trucks, extractors, etc., and in some dyehouses the operatives are supplied with clean overalls or aprons. This may be considered by some as an extreme precaution, but the writer can vouch for its efficacy in preventing many soiled spots and stains, as these clean overalls are a constant reminder that the goods are easily soiled and require clean hands as well as clean clothes on the part of whoever is handling them. Layout for 8-oz. Warp Worsted Broadcloth. CALCULATIONS. 3.6S0 ends. 3,680 ends l/30s = 3.50 oz. -I- 6% 13.4 reed. take-up = 3.70 o-.. 70%" Inside list, plus 1%" for listing = 72" x 60 picks = 4.320. 72" over all. 4,320 40 cut = 6.76 oz. + 6% Warp yarn: take-up 5. SO 02. l/30s Frencii spun worsted. ■ Filling yarn: Loom weight 9.5 oz. 40 cut, white carb. noils, right tH'lst. W'eave- Finished weight, 8 oz. 3 harness; twill to left. 3.70 oz. warp -I- 2% waste allow- 60 picks per inch. ance = 3.78 oz. lci> $1 per lb..= $ .2362 Listing on extra harnesses. 5.80 oz. filling -i- 3% waste allow- ance = 6 oz. ® SI per lb....= .3750 ■■DBBDBBnBBn H □ BBHBBDBBCBB 2 $ .6112 Bb""b'bb"!b" ° Manufacturing costs: aBBGBBDBBDBB S o loom work, 60 picks 2800 3 Harness Twill on 12 Harness. Mill cost $ .8912 A suitable size for the dressing on this work can be made as follows: For 120 gallons of water, 40 pounds dextrine and 80 pounds starch. Place starch in cold water and mix thorou ghly free from lumps. Mix the dex- trine in four pails of water and boil for twenty minutes, then add the starch to the tank while boiling, also add seven pounds glue, previously dissolved, stirring constantly while adding the starch and glue. Boil 30 minutes, and then add one-halt gallon of glycerine. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 297 When woven, these goods must be carefully burled, and any threads left out or imperfections repaired by an experienced mender. They are then run through the crabbing machine, and left on the roll for some time to set, then extracted well, listing tacked together face of cloth inside, and are then ready for the fulling mill. As previously mentioned, the fulling mill should be a special mill built for light-weight goods, having lighter rolls and smaller cramping boxes. A good body of soap is required, made from tallow and palm oil. Such a soap will make a good felt on the material, and being easy to saponify, will scour out freely. The fuller must examine the prices frequently, open- ing them out so as to change the folds and prevent wrinkles, and it is a good plan when the pieces are about half fulled to take them out and re- verse the ends. Full to 56 inches in width, inside of listings, and cramp 3 inches or more per yard in length. This shrinkage will full out in the gig- ging and steaming, and allow the goods to be finished woven length. Do not allow the goods to heat up too much when fulling. Regulate the doors of the mill so that the pieces feel warm, but no more. The long- er they full the better pieces you will get, and a closer feel will be found, which produces a superior finish. Scour well, using plenty of warm water to insure the removal of all soap. Then transfer to crabbing machine, roll up tight, and leave on roll all night. Next day carbonize and neutralize. Gigging or Napping. The gigging or napping requires care and judgment; a wire napper should not be used. Wet gig with old teasles. Do not use any sharp work, as this class of broadcloths do not need napping so much as lustering. After being gigged the goods should be extracted and cropped, taking off all long fibres, but leaving the fine bottom. Give a few runs to insure even- ness, and they are then ready for steaming or lustering. Many finishers prefer the regular steaming cylinders, giving the goods 10 to 15 min- utes each end. The writer prefers on this class of goods the old process of boiling and wet gigging, using stiff brushes on the gig instead of the teasels. An up-and-down gig is used, having a trough built under the bottom roll, and so arranged with water and steam pipes that it can be kept full of boiling or cold water as desired. There should also be a perforated pipe placed along in front of the top roll, so that cold water can be forced upon the cloth before It is rolled up. By boiling, wet gigging and cooling off occasionally it is possible to get a good permanent lus- ter on the goods. Dyeing. When entering any kind of napped goods into the dye kettle, it is im- portant to see that the direction of the nap lies away from the rolls and not toward them. That is, when the roll draws the cloth out of the dye liquor the nap should lie so that the stream of water will run with the nap. If it were to run against the nap it would rough it up and produce a crimpy or waved appearance. After dyeing, the pieces are taken back to the wet gig to be straightened out, and the nap laid well. Extract and dry at 56 inches. They are then given a final shearing. Steam, brush and press. As the yarns for this class of goods can all be purchased ready for manufacturing into cloth, the warp yarns on spools ready to set into the dressing frame, and the filling all spun on tubes or bobbins ready to weave, the labor cost of manufacturing is consequently low. There Is only the dressing, drawing-in, weaving, finishing and dyeing, shipping and office expenses, and if the mill has part of the preparatory departments, such as carding and spinning, standing idle, because of the yarns being bought for weaving, for all or part of the looms, this fabric should not be 298 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY charged up with, any overhead expenses or burden of such departments, nor any items which cannot be directly charged against the manufac- turing cost of the fabric. Ijayout for 10-oz. Wool Spun Yarn: CAI^CUTjATIONS. 3.200 ends. 3,:00 ends 6 1', run = 4.92 oz. Reed 13.3. SSi'n" x 42 picks = 3,507 7 run.= 6.00 oz. «'^ inside list, plus 1 l!. " for listing? 83>4" over all. " 9.92 oz. Warp: Plus gr/^ take-up = 0.78 oz. 6% run. left twist. Filling: Loom weiglit 10,70 oz. 7 run, right twist. -o- • ^ j • ,,» ,„ „. Finished weight, 10 oz. Weave: 3 harness; twill to right. Shrink.qge in length (finishing) 12%. 42 picks per inch. This layout was a standard broadcloth for many years until the wor- sted warp cloth became so much in vogue, but for a medium weight this makes an excellent cloth. It requires a very nice quality of wool to spin down to 6% an-d 7 run yarns for two-loom work. Warp yarns should be smooth and level, free from "twists" and bunches, as nothing will dis- courage a weaver so much as these twists or soft places in the warp yarn, as in either case it means broken ends, and it almost invariably happens that one broken thread will entangle others unless the loom is stopped at once when a thread breaks, and when a weaver is trying to run two looms with twitty yarn it is impossible to see all broken threads in time to stop an-d prevent a tangle of threads. Few weavers will waste their time on such work, but will seek employment somewhere else where the yarns are good enough to insure a reasonable production and good wages. This fabric not only requires a fine quality of wool, but also a good felting wool, and a blend of 12-month s Texas with a percentage of fine Cal- ifornia or fine fall Texas would make a good felting combination. In the foreign wools a good Cape wool is an excellent wool for broadcloths or any felted fabric. Selection of Wools. If there is a proper selection of wools there is not so much danger of twitty yarns. Permit me to say here that the carder or spinner is not always responsible for such yarns, as a few long, coarse fibres in the wool will make more twits than carders and spinners ever dreamed of. Carders will occasionally make twitty roping, and spinners will also make twits even when the roping is all right, and it is something that great care should be taken to guard against. There is very often an unfortunate feel- ing of enmity between a carder and spinner, and the production suffers greatly by it. These two departments are so closely linked together that there should be cordial relations between the overseers, but if any an- tagonism creeps in between them there is bound to be more or less friction, and if it so happens that the superintendent is not thoroughly practical, and can place the blame where it belongs, the breach is sure to widen, and production will suffer both in quantity and quality. A cranky carder can make it very disagreeable for a spinner, and a cranky spinner can ruin the work of a good carder if he so chooses. If any friction is known to exist between these overseers the superintend- ent's duty is to warn both men that if they do not co-operate for the good of the mill, and show it by the results, then one or both should be discharged. Personal animosities between overseers must be at all times subservient to the best interests of the employer, because no business can attain its full success unless it Is conducted on the broad principle of WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 299 cordial relationship between tlie heads of departments and the management. These remarks apply generally to the manufacture of all classes of work, and are not confined to the subject of this article. The roping tor the yarns of this fabric should be of such a size as to give the spinner about halt draft, and if drawn properly should make a good, smooth yarn. As the warp yarns have to be sized in the dressing, it is not necessary to make a hard-twisted thread. The softer it is the bet- ter fabric it will make, as the fibres will felt together better if not twisted too hard, but the twist must be sufficient to make good weaving, and the sizing will prevent any chaffing of the yarns. Filling Yarns. In the spinning of filling yarns, keep the top and bottom spools of rop- ing separate. Never mix the bobbins of tops and bottoms for filling in any class of goods, no matter how closely the yarns may reel in size. Follow out this plan in the weave room also, and the finisher will not have to worry over uneven fulling and cockled goods. Pieces should be tacked at the listing before fulling. This will pre- vent rolling of the lists. Use a good body of soap made of tallow and palm oil. Do not allow the goods to get too warm in the fulling mills. Keep them just warm enough to full and felt well. If they are too wet when fulling, the pieces will full but will not have that close felt so necessary to produce a good broadcloth, and unless you get the felt the goods will look thready and raw. Pull .5.5 to 5 6 inches in width, so as to hold 12 per cent shrinkage in length when finished. Scour well and sen-d to carbon- izing room. Giggijig. A wire napper may be used for the first gigging. Begin lightly and do not force the work. Pieces should be reversed after the felt is well brok- en, and the napping continued until it shows a clear bottom in the goods. Transfer to the cropping shear, and crop until you get down to a close, even nap, then put on a teasel gig for final napping, after which the pieces are ready for the steaming to produce luster. Steam for 15 to 20 minutes each end. The length of time can only be determined by the steam pressure used and the luster desired. The goods are now ready for the dyehouse. After dyeing, give a few runs on wet brush to straighten out and lay the nap dry at 56 inches. Shear again, so that the nap will not rougli up, steam and brush. Dampen with dewing machine and let the pieces lie on roll for some hours be- fore pressing. Give a good pressing, and leave on roll until the next day. COST CALCULATIONS. Loom "weight of goods 10.70 oz. plus lO'/o \\'aste allowance. . . .= 11.9 oz. 11.9 oz. flne wool S) 64c. per lb..= $ .47G0 Plus 127p shrinkage in length..^ .0571 Manulacturing cost: 2 loom worlc, plus 12% =^ .2600 Weave chain same as the worsted T\'arp tiroadcloth, Ijut the twill niust run to the right. This weight of broadcloth is generally used for children's and misses' spring or fall coats, also for ladies' cloakings. Some clothing manufactur- ers will use a 12-ounce cloth, as it can be bought cheaper, but it does not make up so well as the 14-ounce cloth, being more sleazy it does not keep its shape so well. It is dyed into many fancy shades, as scarlet, bright reds, tans, brown, light and dark blues, etc. The stock used l^ 300 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY about the same quality as the 10-ounce cloth, but as the yarns are spun heavier it Is possible to use quite a percentage of a fine noil, and a fine California wool may be used instead of the 12-months Texas, which would help to cheapen the stock somewhat. The manufacturing processes are practically the same as the 10-ounce broadcloth, and as this cloth is 4 ounces per yard heavier, it is even an easier cloth to finish than the 10-ounce. One of the greatest -difficulties in making all face-finished goods in the fancy shades is to overcome the ten- dency to have uneven shades, goods shading from side to centre. It the piece shows darker on the sides than in the centre it will usually be found that the gigging has not been even, owing to the listing being tighter or not so tight as the body of the piece. If it is tight, the gig will dig deeper into the cloth and raise a heavier nap. The same thing will hap- pen if the listing is loose, as the cloth will then flap or strike against the teasels and show a heavier nap, but it will not be so continuous and of as even a streak as a tight listing. Similar unevenness may be caused in the process of steaming the pieces by letting the steam blow out at the listings before it comes through the body of the goods. The fin- isher should see to it that the steam comes evenly through the pieces, and not have it come first on the edge. This can be regulated by the way that the burlap is wound on the steaming roll, and the finisher should give spe- cial attention to the steaming of the first pieces, and if it is not right, have it corrected at once. l^ayout for 14-02. Broadcloth: 3,500 ends. Reed 7.4. SO" Inside list, plus 1\^" for listing: 81%" over all. Warp: 4% run, left twist. Filling: run. right twist. 40 pici^s per incii, \\'eave : 3 liarness; twill to riglit. 3,5 00 CALCULATIONS. SI Mi" 3.260 X 40 picks ^ 3,2G0. ^ 5 run . . ^ 6.52 oz. Plus 13.S9 oz. — 1 39 02 Finislied "weiglit, 14 oz. Slirini^age in length at fulling 16%. 15.28 oz. -f 109c waste allowance = 17 oz. of stoclc. Stoclt mixture: 2 5 7o fine Texas (a) 6 0c. 60% fine California iSi 4Sc. 25% fine noil @ 44c .1600 .2400 .1100 $ .6000 Cost per pound 17 oz. stoclc at 60c. per lb = $ .5312 Plus 16% shrinlcage in length.. = .0S50 $ .6162 ]\lanufacturlng cost: 2 loom worlc -I- 16% shrinltage in length ^= LooiTi weight 15.28 oz. Fancy Printed Designs. This article on broadcloths would not be complete unless mention was made of the fancy printed design broadcloths. The French and German manufacturers turn out very handsome printed broadcloths in very at- tractive designs which are often sold to the best trade, and the unwary consumer, not knowing the difference between a printed fabric and a fancy wool-dyed broadcloth, is attracted by the design, and the magic word "im- ported," and pays a big price for the garment. In justice, however, to these printed cloths the writer must confess that he has made exposure tests of a few patterns of good quality, and in the darker combinations the tests were satisfactory, but, of course, not nearly so good as a stock- dyed color. The main thing to guard against in the printed cloth is the low grades made with cotton warp and shoddy fillings, which are dyed with cheap dyestuffs, and which will not stand any exposure tests without fading a good deal. These printed fabrics are woven and finished in the white the same as an ordinary broadcloth, but are usually made from cheaper materials. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 301 The design is printed by rollers similar to the printing ot cotton goods. Fancy broadcloths, having a woven pattern, are a semi-piece dye, that is, the yarns which compose the dark threads ot the design are dyed in the wool before carding or spinning witli a fast dyestuff which will stand the steaming and the cross dyeing. The pattern is woven in the usual way in the ordinary woolen loom. The cloth, alter being fulled, napped and steamed, is then dyed like an ordinary piece dye, tlie undyed yarns ot the design being dyed to the desired shade, while the black or dark yarns are but slightly affected by the dyes. This method is not ^ery sat- isfactory, and the range of designs is very limited. BEDFORD CORD FOR MEN'S WEAR Double and Twist Goods. Bedford cord is used extensively for riding breeches in our cities, and even m»re so in England, where it is also used by sportsmen for shooting breeches. It is a fabric especially fit- ted for har.l .service, as it is strong, elastic, and the hard-twiste-d face warp yarn gives it the necessary wearing qualities. This cloth is always madt with double and twist yarns for warp ii contrasted colors, such as drab and white, olive and white and similar tones of color which do not show signs of being soiled or of dust very readily. This is one of the reasons why it has been such a fashionable fabric with both horsemen and sportsmen. These Bedford cords, and, in fact, all fabrics made from double and twist 16-Ounce Bedford Cord. yarns, are hard cloths to produce perfectly, as the least variation of size In the yarns before twisting will show up very distinctly after finishing. No mill should think of making this class of goods unless it is especially well pnuinped in the card room. It should also be supplied with good mules, twisters, etc. As the production of these fine yarns in the carding and spinning rooms is necessarily slow, tlie mill should have extra sets of cards and extra mules if it wants to keep its full complement of looms run- ning. The ordinary carding and spinning equipment which would keep the 302 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY looms busy on the average single yarns would not keep more than 60 per cent of them running on these double and twist yarns. The Card Room. The card room should also be equipped with balling machines and creels instead of all Apperly feeds throughout, which will make more level yarns. It also requires great care in selecting the wool to produce a nice even eight- run yarn which will spin well and be tree from twists. All wools must be carefully sorted and the finest picked out to make such yarns. The term used in England for such a grade of stock is "picklock" wool, meaning that the finest and most uniform locks of wool are selected or picked out of the fleece. Sometin.es a fine 1-oOs or l-40s worsted yarn is used for the white thread instead of a wool spun yarn, and by this means the manutacturei is enabled to run more looms than if he undertook to card and spin all the yarns. This would apply to those mills which do not have any extra carding and spinning machinery. In the twisting of the yarns the best results can be obtained by spooling the threads first on spools — 1 thread of dark color an d 1 thread of white — and twisting from the spools. This gives much better ' esults, the tension on the yarns it more even, and the added cost of spooling is more than made up for by the more perfect twist and also by an increased production from the twist- ers. After the yarns are twisted it is necessary to inspect all the bobbins, and all irregular or imperfect ones should be laid aside. Co.nstruction of Fabric. The single yarns for twist are first spun on the mule left twist, and when twisted are made right twist, 22 to 24 turns per inch. Two weaves are here given. In weave No, 1 the lift of the harness is somewhat uneven, being 8 up and 4 down in every alternate pick and the other being 6 up and 6 down. Th8 weave No. 2 shows a uniform lift of 7 up and 5 down. The cloth as illustrated was woven with weave No. 1, as it makes the cleaner cut or the two weaves. The four warp threads which form the cord are wov- en what is called a warp face, that is, each thread is carried on face over three picks before it is stitched down by the fourth filling pick, each thread being stitched or held down alternately. The cut is formed by two threads single yarn, being woven the opposite of the face threads, while each al- ternate filling thread floats under the four cord threads, and it is this thread which causes the cord to rise up by the extra contraction in the finishing ]irocess. Every ;,lternate filling thread being woven plain, is, therefore, very tightly woven in with the warp threads, and consequently will not con- tract in finishing as quickly as the thread which floats underneath the cord. Goods may be fulled in the grease, but it is preferable to scour first and dry. Then have the pieces carefully inspected for threads out or imperfec- tions and knots which should be removed. Imperfections and ends out should be carefully repaired by a competent sewer, then the goods are ready fer fulling. Some manufacturers may think that all this extra work will cost too much, but it pays well to have it done before the goods are full- ed, as it is often impossible to repair imperfections afterward. An allow- ance ef one-eighth of a yard each on several imperfections will cost more than the extra labor and expense of scouring. Full to 56 inches inside list- ing, and dry at 57 inches. Steam brush, shear and press medium pres- sure. Layout: Pattern: 4,:iO* end8. -■ 8X8 run twist. 10-6 reed. -■ ^ run single right twlat, 4.8 picks, i^, S X 8 run twist. 70%" Inside ll.itlng plus 1" tor llsllnE = 2.800 end.i S X 8 run twist 2i 71U" over all 'urn« ritrht -1- i'.<^^. take-un — Straight draw on 1 i: harness. 4.1C runs = 6.99 02 2 haineesea extra for listing:. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 303 1,400 ends 4 run single right twlat 3,50 oz. 1U.4'J oz, 10,49 oz. warp -f 10% weaving take-up = nil 4 oz. FtlllDK: 71 X 48 = 3,408 -+- 4"^ run filling = 7. 57 OZ. + 10% take-up. . .= 8,32 oz. Loom weight 19.8Goz. Finished weight 1(5 00 oz. COST CALCULATIONS. 7.69 oz. 8 X 8 twist yarn + S% waste allowance =^ S,3 oz. 3.85 oz 4 run alng"le yarn + G% waste allowance = 4 oz. S.32 oz. 4 V2 run filling yarn + 8% waste allowance = S oz. S[n>_k used: s lun twiKting, I'dne picklock wool @ 08c, per lb. Sint^le yLLrn.s, l''ine medium grade @ fiGc, per lb. N.3 oz, twist Ic 6Sc. per lb = ? .3527 4 oz, single wurp ig' 5Gc, per lb.— ,1400 'J oz, filling Q 56c. per lb = .3150 $ .8077 Manuracturing: 4^ picks @ $,O0S2 = $ .3926 Kxtru cost. I>. and T. yarns.... = .0500 iMill cost $1.2503 \^>ave Chain No. 1. Woave Chain No. 2. ■nn. JDOsaaouBH ' ani^a^BniDLjBB- B. iW' iH.jauiijHLJ > z^ BLJBnaBBBr.'iar.iH. t^ Bd]._ _.aaaa^uHu I >-, aa.j.jaL'Bja'. aa- ^ :H ar_BJB_a:iai ^ na.j, aaaar.ia.ia.' p. aa.jaaBau-aB i O ma a^B~a_^^Ba ^ ^ B...a_a_a. .a. B.J i :i a _a._aaBB:]-.a.j - n^ BBu:^aaaB--aB i r^, aa ^ajai,arjBB - h DBGa::iB_B_.B_a i "^ ._a_.^aBBaGBDB - 26-OUNCE TWIST OVERCOATING A comparative cost calculation b dy cotton mix, both having the sam is a study in manipulation of fabric made from pure wool by a mill tha tute, and beside this is shown another mill out of shoddy, cotton a perfect a copy that it would deceive a tainly, the purchasing public would n of the fabrics, yet the one cloth cost The particulars and cost calculation tographic illustrations. This was a case of unintentiona which made the low-grade fabric. T etween an all-wool fabric and a shod- e design and structure, follows. This s. showing a high-grade overcoating t never uses a pound of any substi- the same fabric structure made by nd wool. The reproduction is so nyone except a cloth expert. Cer- ot see a difference in the appearance s exactly twice as much as the other. s of both fabrics are given, also pho- I piracy on the part of Mill No. 2, he mill received the sample from its 26-Ounce Twist Overcoating, selling agent with instructions to reproduce it at a stated price. The mill did so, not knowing until several months afterward that Mill No. 1, mak- ing high-grade goods, was manufacturing the exact style in their all-wool fabric, and the singular thing about it was the fact that the mills were within .50 miles of each other and the owners \ery friendly. The selling agent claimed that he received the clipping from a buyer, who stated that it was an imported cloth which he wanted to have copied S04 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY into a cheap cloth. It is quite possible that these statements were cor- rect, that it was not a case of piracy but a coincidence of two mills getting hold of an imported fabric through a pattern agency, and both reproducing it in their respective grades. Whether it was a case of piracy or a coincidence, it was a hard matter to convince manufactur- er No. 1 that manufacturer No. 2 did not steal his fabric and pattern, producing it in an inferior grade with the intention of underselling him, and the old cordial relations were considerably strained for some time. Layout and calculations for the all-wool Stock for grey mixture: clotli: 10^/(1 lig:ht blue stain wool, per. lb.. 1 2,100 ends, 8V. — % — il in dent 40% white fine med. wool I-66C. 70%" inside lifting plus 1" for listing = 6"% black fine med. wool I 711^" over all. White for twisting: Draft on 14 harness. Fine med. wool 56c. 24 Pi<:ks. Black filling: c.nn.B „„„„„ Fine med. wool 66c. DBBl^ian i: r; i:^ ]:i 1:: 2.100 ends 2V2 run -f 6% take-up K^BSSfi n'VVV'u''-' '" twisting = 9.16 oz. ■ DlSZHS 10 10 1,1 10 i,, 2.100 ends 3% run -I- 6% take-up ■aBBiaa 90099 in twisting = 5.9202. 22>S2HH , , - . s « ■' » s 711/," X 24 picks = 1,716 2% run ■■HnSSn 6 g' 0' --ply + 6% take-up in twlst- OBBCBB^ b 5 5 5 5 Ing ^ 14.58 OZ. nBBJDBB 4 4 4 4 4 □ BBGBB 3 ;i :i .'i ri oq j.„ BnaBBOB 11111 Plus 10% take-up in weaving.. = 2.96 oz. FRONT. Loom weight 32.62 oz. Warp yarn: Finished weight 26 oz. 2M. run, grey mix., left twist. 32.62 oz, woven weight -f- 10% 3% run white, left twist. waste allowance = 36.24 oz. O Warp yarn twisted 8 turns right twist per fJGc. per lb = $1.2684 inch. 6% take-up in twisting. Manufacturing cost: „,,,. 24 picks (a $.0106 = .2644 *"""S: Extra tor twisting 32 oz. @ 2%c. 21/3 run black, left twist. per lb 0500 Filling yarn twisted 6 turns right twist per inch. C% take-up In twisting. Mill cost $1.5728 This price could be reduced somewhat by using a percentage of good noil and worsted waste, but, as mentioned before, the mill never used anything but straight wools in all of its fabrics. 26-OUNCE COTTON AND SHODDY TWIST OVERCOATING A Comparative Study. These figures show that the low-grade fabric costs less than halt the high-grade all wool, the manufacturing cost being rated the same in both, and the only difference being in the cost of stock. The all-wool stock costs .$126,84, and the low grade 48.06 cents, a difference of 78,78 cents a yard. The manufacturing details are practically the same in both fabrics, but in picking and oiling the cotton mix care should be taken to keep the cotton as free as possible from the oil emulsion, because if cotton gets wet it will cause nibs in carding. A good plan is to pick and oil the wool and shoddy together, then add the cotton in layers, first a layer of wool and shoddy, then a layer of cotton, until the entire batch is laid down, running tlie lot through the picker twice to insure a good mixture. The mule draft on the all-wool fabric should be % to g, and on the cotton mix about 2-3 draft for the twisting yarn and fully that on the H run black filling. Previous to fulling, the cotton mix fabric should be given one run on back and two runs on face on wire napper, not to WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY SOB raise a nap but just scratch it well to soften the cloth. Full both fab- rics to 56 Inches and scour dry at 5 7 inches. Brush well, shear off any long hairs, and press cotton fabric very light with the all-wool medium pres- sure. 26-Ounce Cotton ajid Shoddy Twist Overcoating. Layout: 2,100 enda S^^ — V3 — ^ In dent. 701/2" Inside Usting plus 1" for listing = 7114" over all. Draft and weave tiie same as the all- wool faoric. Warp yarn: 2 V2 run grey mix., left twist, soft spun. 3% run white, left twist, soft spun. Warp yarn twisted to right, 8 turns per inch. 6 % take-up in twisting. Filling yarn: Black 114 run, right twist, spun soft. Stock for 21-^ run grey mixture: 10% black cotton peeler comber waste No. 1 (a) II14C =- $ .0113 20% white cotton peeler comber waste No. 1 fq) II14C -= .0225 15% white fine med. wool @ 56c. = .0840 10% white fine med, noils (§) 40c. = .0400 45% black shoddy @ 13c = .05S5 Cost per pound $ .2163 Stock for 3% run white yarn: 40% white cotton peeler comber ■waste No. 1 (a> ll^c ^ $ .0450 15% white fine med. wool (g) 56c. ^ .0840 45% white fine med. noils (g) 40c. ^ .1800 Cost per pound $ .3090 Stock for black 1 14 run filling yarn: 25% black cotton peeler comber waste No. 1 (g) ll'^c = $ .0281 2', ' ;. black garnetted waste @ I'-lc = .0600 ^•O';'o black shoddy (a) 13c = .0650 Cost per pound $ .1531 2,100 ends 2 V2 run -1-0% twist- ing take-up = 9.1G oz. + 10% ^\■eaving take-up = 10.07 oz. 2,100 ends 334 run + 6% twist- ing take-up = 5.y2 oz. -|- 10% weaving take-up = 6.51 oz. 7iy2" X 24 picks ^ l,7iy threads 1^4 I'un = 13.75 oz. -|- 10%. wea\'ing take-up ^ 15.12 oz. Loom weight 31.70 oz. Finished welglit, 2ri u oz. 2 V2 run grey mixture 10.07 oz. -^ 15 % waste allowance ^ 11.85 oz. @ $.2163 per lb = $ .1602 3^/4. run white 6.51 oz. -1- 15% waste alio\\ance = 7.23 02. (^i $.0390 per lb = .1396 114 run black 15.12 oz. -f- 20% waste allowance =^ IS. 90 oz. @ $.1531 per lb = .1808 $ .4806 ^Manufacturing cost: 24 picks @ $.0106 per pick = .2544 Kxtra for twisting .0250 Mill cost J .7600 KERSEYS It was stated recently in an arti that they were to a large extent mad that was true in a sense, it is eve manufacture of kerseys. There is n process of finishing plays such an i of kerseys and broadcloths. These f as two different materials, are reall and medium weight goods, while ke cle on the manufacture of meltons e in the finishing room, and while n more so when we consider the fabric made of wool in which the mportant part as in the manufacture abrics, although known or classified y the same. Broadcloths are light rseys are practically the same cloth 'M WOOLEN AND AA'ORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY with a heavy backing yarn attached to it to increase the weight, the finishing processes being the same in both cases. The Better Grades of Kerseys are usually made in what Is known as a double-plain weave, using a large number of ends per inch both in warp and filling. The face and back- ing yarns are the same quality and counts, and the fabric is called a "through-and-through" cloth; that is it has no backing cloth, and although it is a double fabric, the two cloths are so interlaced that it is as solid as a single woven cloth. These fine-grade kerseys are laid in the loom from 90 to 100 inches in width, and as there is a large amount of fulling, both in length and width, it makes a very firm piece of goods, with a smooth and velvety nap which will not rough up. These high-grade ker- seys are often finished in a dull manner, that is without the steam luster- ing. Some buyers may prefer the dull finish and others the luster. The medium-priced goods are usually woven with a fine face warp, with a coarser yarn attached on the back, two threads face yarn and one thread backing. There is no back filling. This is a semi-double cloth, and the construction allows of using a cheaper yarn for the back warp. The two face warp threads interlacing with the filling yarn make a firm and closely threaded face, which enables the finisher to get a smooth, well-felted face and to work up a good close nap in the process of napping. It should be emphasized here that while the manufacture of kerseys in any quality is comparatively easy to the experienced manufacturer, there is many a snag which a man not accustomed to such goods may run against, and which may cause serious loss and also disappointment in the resultant cloth unless guarded against. A Fine, Good Felting Wool should be used, along with a fine noil and shoddy, but a fine merino or Thi- bet shoddy is the best. Many manufacturers use a small percentage of fine Texas and California wools, Australian noils and fine shoddy for the face yarns and a cheaper stock for the backing threads. A standard construction and weave is here given for such goods. One of the most important things is to secure the services of a finish- er who is thorouglily experienced in handling this style cf goods, and have the mill equipped with all the necessary machinery for finishing, as so much depends upon the fulling, napping, cropp'ng, steaming, etc., in the finishing process. A good finisher is one of tlie essentials neces- sary to success. It can be said without any fear of contradiction that there is no other cloth made where so much depends upon the proper handling in the finishing as a kersey, and there is no other cloth in which there is so much difference between the raw fabric as it comes from the loom and the same piece after being properly finished. It comes from the loom thready and loose in texture, no luster or life being left in it. It is an un- sightly rag of cloth, and to the inexperienced eye it does not seem possible to make an attractive cloth out of it. But let a skilful finisher, provided with the necessary machinery, commence operations on it and it gradually be- comes a cloth of beauty and elegance, fit to clothe the most fastidious dresser in the nation. It has firmness and closeness of texture, yet is soft to handle, as smooth as velvet and lustrous as silk. All this change in ap- pearance comes from the action of soap and water in fulling, and the WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 307 after processes of napping, cropping and steaming, in combination witli tlie sliill and brains of a flnislier. In the Fulling of Kerseys, or any similar fabric requiring a long fulling, it is necessary to use a good, lieavy-bodied soap made from tallow and palm oil, and of sufficient alkali strength to cut the grease in the goods and to hold it in suspen- r^ion, or, in other words, saponified, during the whole time of fulling. If the soap becomes dead, that is if the alkali contained in the soap is overcome by the grease in the goods or is neutralized by an acid condi- tion of any shoddy in the stock mixture, then the goods will not full, and it will be impossible to get that solidity of cloth and thick, close feel so necessary for a kersey finish. If the soap, through any cause, becomes dead and watery, another piece of similar goods may be run into the full- ing mill with the goods already in the machine, which will absorb the excess of water, and then a pail or two of a heavier and stronger alkali soap may be added to the pieces, which will liven up the soap that has been spent, but the safer plan is to take the goods out of the fulling mill and scour off the spent soap, extract and dry, then re-enter the pieces in the fulling mill, and as they are now presumably clean and free from any acids, they can be fulled with a soap that is nearly neutral. It a pure tallow soap is used it is extremely hard to scour it out of heavy fulled fabrics, some tallow soaps being even liarder to eliminate than others, owing to the amount of glycerine left in the tallow. Some soap manufacturers do not extract the glycerine from the tallow, and such soaps are very hard to wash out of the goods. A properly-made soap, containing about 50 per cent of tallow and 50 per cent of palm oil is an excellent soap for kerseys and meltons, or any heavy fulled cloth, and it will scour out readily, unless the water used is very hard and contains carbonate of lime or other carbonates which are very apt to set the soap in the goods, causing uneven napping and cloudiness in the dyeing. Soft water, when it can be obtained, is always the best to use in either the finishing or dyeing of woolen goods. Soap is very liable to adulteration, and is often mixed with resin, silicate of soda. China clay, excess of water and other ingredients which help to give it weight. A Few Simple Soap Tests are here given which may help the manufacturer to determine the quality of the soap he is using. The excess of water can easily be ascertained by reducing a given weight of the soap to shavings and drying them thor- oughly until they lose all moisture. The dried weight will indicate the amount of water evaporated, and the difference in weight between the original soap and the dried product will be the amount of water. If 50 grains of soap is dissolved in a given quantity of water, and then a sufficient amount of diluted sulphuric acid or acetic acid is added to neutralize the alkali, the tallow or grease will separate from the water and float on the top, while the earthy adulterant will fall to the bottom. This grease can be collected, dried and reweighed. and the difference in weight will show the amount of adulteration. Another method of detect- ing foreign adulterants is to dissolve a given quantity of the soap in al- cohol, when all the insoluble foreign matter will fall to the bottom of the test glass. In the napping of kerseys, soft water, if it can he obtained, is always preferable. The cloth is put on the napper well dampened, as without the presence of water the fibres would break and cause a greater loss in the process. As the ob.iect of napping is to raise the interlocked and felt- 308 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY ed fibres, straightening them out on the face of the cloth, the other end of the wool fibre being still attached to the body of the cloth, it stands to reason that this can best be accomplished when the cloth is soft and pliable. That water has this effect on wool can easily be demon- strated by the fact that a piece of wet cloth is more easily torn than a dry piece, and the hygroscopic properties of wool are such that a piece of cloth can without even feeling wet hold as much as 30 per cent of its weight of water. This can easily be tested by weighing a piece of cloth as it comes out of the hydro-extractor and again after being dried, when it will be found that the average piece as it comes out of the extractor contains about 30 per cent of its weight of water. It has been noted by finishers that goods which are not thoroughly clean will not rise on the napper and finish up so well as clean pieces. This has been attributed to the grease in the goods preventing the tree access of water to the fibres, and the result is a fiuffy and thin nap. It may be noted here that all heavy, fulled goods, after being scoured free from soap, etc., should be rolled onto a Solid Roll Under Pressure, just as they come out of the extractor, and left on the roll tor 24 houitj at least. In England this is called the setting process, and although it may appear to many to be a waste of time, it has been proved by practi- cal maunfacturers that goods so treated will not lose so much in the sub- sequent processes of finishing, and they will feel much better when fin- ished than the same quality of goods not set on a roll. The object of napping or gigging is to raise the fibres in such a man- ner and to such an extent that the surface of the cloth Is entirely cover- ed with a fur-like nap. This process was formerly done by a machine called a gig, wliich consists of a cylinder filled with slats which are closely set with teasels, the burr-like product of a plant. This cylinder makes about 1-50 revolutions per minute, and it revolves in the contrary direction to that in which the cloth travels, and as the latter moves slow- ly, it offers a surface of great raising power. The amount of contact be- tween the goods and the teasels is easily regulated by means of a rachet and movable roller. Although the teasel gig is now superseded by the wire napper, in the earlier stages of napping, that is in the "breaking in" of a piece, many finishers claim that in the last process of napping the teasel gig is better than any wire n^ipper, but for the first stages of nap- ping the wire napper is almost entirely used, as it is more effective and does the work much more quickly. All heavy fulled cloths like kerseys and broadcloths are napped wet. As there is less waste of fibres and the matted and entangled fibres, softened by the water, are more easily combed out, the resultant nap is laid down close to the surface. In the ordinary medium grade of kerseys the napping is usually all done in one direction, as by reversing the nap in goods containing much shoddy it would result in quite a loss of stock, but in the higher grades the nap is reversed, and this produces a thicker body of nap and a superior finish. When the pieces are napped sufficiently they are taken to the cropping shears, still in a wet condition, and the nap is brushed lightly by a revolving brush, which lifts up any long fi- bres that are cut off, the object being to obtain a close, even nap like a piece of velvet. The goods are then put onto a teasel gig, and the nap is straightened out again and brushed flat before being put into The Steaming Machine. The steamer is a machine fitted with two large copper cylinders per- forated with many holes to allow the passage of steam and water. The cloth is wound tightly onto one of the cylinders, and steam at 40 pounds WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 309 pressure is blown through the cloth tor some time, usually 10 to 15 minutes, then cold water is forced through the goods to cool them off. The cloth is then wound onto the second cylinder, thus putting the end of the piece which was outside on the first cylinder inside or next to the cylinder in the second steaming. Steam is then blown through, as in the first case, and followed by the cold water. This steam boiling and cooling sets the cloth and imparts to it a good luster. The goods are now ready for the dyeing process, being run in the kettles from 8 to 12 pieces to a kettle, care being taken to i an the pieces so that the water will be shed from them in tlie direction that the nap is laid. The Dyeing Process. The drying process is usually done on a machine heated by steam coils, the cloth being run onto a link chain provided with fine steel pins set about Vt of an inch apart. This chain carries the cloth through the ma- chine backward and forward bet\veen the steam heated coils, and delivers it thoroughly dry and tentered to the desired width. Many finishers do not give sufficient care to the drying of the goods, as they do not realize that cloths may be injured by being dried too quickly, especially it the cloth is not sufficiently extracted, and if it has been rinsed off in the washer with a hard water containin.g lime, etc. If the drying was done by the natural atmosphere not mucli damage would result from such ac- tion, although it would give hardness, but when subjected to an extreme heat, with so much superfluous water, the effect is to scald and bake the fibres, and burn into them the carbonates contained in the water, which no amount of after-treatment can remove. After drying, the goods are brushed, steamed and examined for knots and imperfections, sheared again, brushed, sprayed and pressed. Layout for 30-oz. Btediuin Grade Kersey: Face 2,880 end.s. Back 1,440 ends. Reed S.C. 80" in,'^ide H.sting plus 11,2" for Ustlng == Siy2" over all. Dressed : 1 end face >'arn, 3 '4 run, right twist, 1 end hacliing yarn, 1 V^ run, riglit twist, 1 eu'l lace >'arn, 3 Vi run, right twist. Filling: ■2% run, left twist, 36 picks, C.\TjCUrj.\TIONS. 2,880 ends 3*4 run warp = 8,86 oz. + 10% take-up = 9.74 oz, 1,440 ends 1 Vo run ^^■arp = 9,60 oz, + 10% take-up = 10,56 oz, 81%" X 3 6 picks -+- 2=,irun = 10,67 oz, + 10%o take-up, -..= 11,73 oz. Filling 35% 65% fine wool ?.2450 per pound = .2021 14 60 oz. filling - -■-- iv. — = 13 oz. ry iGc. per ib..= $ 40% mill waste @ Sc. Fi] 407c shoddy @ 10c - -0-10 7.ui,'oz. Gs lustre -f 10 7. loom _ ^ , , , . ., take-up — ..7'J oz. + S 7o waste Cost per pound S .IbUO allowance = S.4 oz. ^ 72c. per Stock for 5 run twisting thread is fine lb ^ .37S0 wool (Sf 56c. per pound. 3,-4 oz. 5 run wool -f 10% loom pjl]jj^g. take-up = 3.5ij oz. + 10% waste lustre worsted. 5 run wool thread Both of the above are f^'isted o\\ance = 3. 'J.J oz. lbs. SO thread filling, 40 lbs. 18-OtJNCE BLUE KER8EY. Government Standard. Cloth test per square inch: Warp, ^Tj lbs. Filling, 50 lbs. Layout: 2,760 ends. Reed: 9—4. ■ 76 2-3" inside list. 77 2-3" over all. List. 20 threads each, Weave: 4 harness, tA\"lll to ri 4 4 picks. Warp yarn: 2 % run. left twist. - 1" for list, run white. Filling yarn: 3 ■;« run, riglit twist. 2,7 60 ends 2,% run warp == 9.61 oz. and 3,417 ends 3% run filling = 9.44 oz. = 19.05 oz, + 10% loom take-up = 20. '.'5 oz List .20 oz. Ia ■ight 21.15 oz. 21.1.J oz. -|- 5% waste allowance -- 22. 2S oz. + 10% shrinkage in length = 24.75 oz. (lO 54c. per JManul'iLCturing cost : 44 picks -f 10% $.8100 D\eing (extra) . . 4 9 picks & Mill cost .3969 .0800 Fi tested when spinning: rp, 55 thread, 46 lbs. ing, 50 thr-^ad. 40 lbs. 33-OUNCE BLUE KERSEV. Government Standard. Cloth test pel' square Inch: Warp, 65 lbs. Filling, 60 lbs. Layout; 3,000 ends. Reed: 914 — 4. 81" inside list. -|- 1" lor listing = 82" over all. List. 2 threads each, 2 run white. Weave: 4 harness, twill to right. 44 picks. 3,000 ends 2% run warp, left twist = 10.90 oz. 82 X 44 picks 31/1 run filling, right twist = 11.10 oz. List .20 oz. Loom weight 24.40 oz. 4.40 oz. 4- 5% waste allowance = 25.68 (•z. 4- 1:^ % shrinkage in length = 29 oz. of stock. It oz. stock (g> 54c. per lb = $ .9787 l;.i iiufncturing cost: 4 4 picks -!- 12% — $,S0O0 Dyeing (extra) 50 picks (dJ Ml ost .4000 .0900 $1.4687 r 11 s t e s t e i 1 when spinning: ri5 thread Avarp, 50 11:p9. 50 chread filling, 48 lbs. WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 315 FANCY TWILL KNiCKf mm GOODS This fabric is made 56 inches wide, 10 3-10 ounces in weight and is used for suits and skirts for women. The warp is a white kniclverbocker yarn, and tlie filling is a darli grey mixture yarn. Tlie wliite wool used in the warp sliiould he a wool tliat can be scoured a clean while and then bleached. This includes the white wool nubs. Have the goods come out free from a.ny yellow tinge. This class of goods is somc'times made in a cheaper grade of the same weight per yard by using a percentage of cotton both in the white warj) and the dark mixture of filling. The finish is about as fol- lows: Full to 57 inches, scour, extract, dry to .57 inches, shear face, notary press, and finish 56 inches loom length. 10 3-10-Ounce Fancy Twill Knickerbocker Dress Goods. Layout : 1,920 ends, reed, 15 X 2 In dent, 64" +1" for listing = 65 inciies over all, 30 piclts, 8 harness. STRAIGHT DRAW, p ■■•D.ZDBD V ■■DzrarB p, ■::gcb.lbb :< Z.. JB -BBB ^ GGsaBBBG ^ DBGBBBDG BGBBBGGD HABXESS DRAFT. Warp: 1,920 ends, 3% run — 5,12 oz. + 7% loom shrinkage — u,4Soa, Filling: 30 picks X 65 Inches = 1,950. 1,950 picks, 3% run = 5,20 oz, -j- 4% loom shrinkage Finished weiglit. = 6 41 oz- 10,89 oz. COST CALCULATION, Warp: o\ run A^iiite Knickerbocker \ Twist is spun to right, 757o lamb's ^^ool (g) 54c, per lb, 25% wool nubs @ 60c, per lb. $ ,4050 ,1500 16) $ An ounce $ ,0347 Dark grey mi.K., 3^,:i run, r^ draft. Spin twist to right. 100% med, wool @ 45c, per lb, = $ ,4500 16) % ,4500 An ounce $ ,0281 5. 48 oz, .3^4 run warp + 12% slirink- age = 6.14 oz, (ra) $ ,0347 =$ ,2130 5,41 OZ- 3 :'4 run fllling -f 12% shrink- age = 6,06 oz, @ $ ,0281 = $ ,1703 i .3833 Manufacturing: 30 picks (§ ,01c. .$ .6838 316 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY COVERT CLOTH This cloth is used for men's light-weight overcoats and for women's coats. The goo'^s are made to sell at 56 inches wide, and weigh tvom about 16 to 26 ounces per yard. Great care should be taken in selecting the stock and the blending, so it will card out well and spin a nice, even thread, especially the yarns spun to be used for double twist, which is made by twisting two threads together of different shades, such as white and brown, white and tan, white and black, etc., and any unevenness or lumps in bad spinning will show hadly m tlie goods, in the form of run- ners and specks on the face. About three-fourths of the yarn on face 16-Ounce Covert Cloth. is warp, which is tire double twist yarn. To eliminate this as much as possible, it would be well to respool the yam after it has been spooled from the twisting frame, that is, run over an inspecting spooling frame, which runs at slower speed, so that the tender of this frame can take out any detectiv threads or ends that run slack. In this way a more perfect piece of goo can be produced and a better price be obtained in the market, which wi at least pay for the extra expense incurred. To finish this material ful to 56 inches, insi-de listing, scour, wash, extract, dry to 57 inches, steam brush, shear face close and crop on back to remove any long fibres, and rotary press, not too hot, to 56 inches inside ol listing. HARNESS DRAFT. S naanaDaBDa ^ oaGaanajaa O aacaGBaDa:^ a anaajaoaaG (2, anaoaa^aaa STRAIGHT DRAW. 5 harness weave, but use 10 harness, and do not orowd heddles. Layout: 2.6SS ends. , . . Reed: 10 X -t In a dent = 67.2 inside listing. ^ ^„ ,, Plus 2" for listing = G9.2 over all. 46 picks per inch. Warp : :.6.SS ends 2/G run D. T. ^\-hite and tan S. 96 oz. Plus 10',;:. loom shrinliage 9.85 oz. FillinB: JG picks X 69.2" = 3.1S3 picks -i Vu run tan.... 7.07 oz. Plus 7Cc loom shrinkage 7.56 oz. Finished weight 16.03oz. 17.41 oz WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 317 COST CALCULATION. Material; The 2/G run double twist yarn used m warp is made of 2 ends of ii% run, spun h^ draft; twist to right, then twisted to- gether to left. 24 turns per inch, allowing a take-up in length in the twisting of 4 9c will be the equivalent of 2-ply 6 run yarn. The 4 run flUing is spun 2/3 draft; twist to the left. 2/6 run warp. Fine med. wool @ 64c. per lb., or 4c. per oz. 4 run filling. 75% rned. wool @ 50c. per lb.... 25% fine shoddy @ 31c. per lb.. .$ .3750 . .0775 An ounce ...$ .02S3 9.85 oz. + 14% shrink- age = 11.23 2/6 run (qi $.0004 = 7.5(3 oz. + 14% shrink- age = 8.62 4 run @ $.0283 = 19.85 Manufacturing: 4G picks @ $.0084 = Mill cost per yard $.4492 .2439 oz. $.6931 .3864 $1.0796 21-Ounce Covert Cloth. Layout: 3.360 ends. Reed: I21/2 X 4 in dent. 67.2". Plus 2" for listing = 69.2" ove 60 picks per inch. Warp: 3,360 ends 2/6 run D. T. white and brown 11.20 oz. Plus 10% loom shrinkage Filling: 60 picks X 69.2" = 4,162 picks 414 run brown. . . . 9.77 oz. Plus 7% loom shrinkage Finished weight .20.97 oz. 22.77 oz COST CALCULATION. Material : The 2/6 run double twist warp is the same as is used jn tlie 16-ounce covert just de- scribed, but white and medium brown. In- stead of white and tan. The filling is the same stock as is used in the 16-ounce co\'ert, but spun 4 1^ run instead of 4 run, and medium brown instead of tan. 12.32 02. + 14% shrink- age = 14.04 oz. 2/6 run @ $.0400 = $5616 10.45 02. + 14% shrink- age = 11.91 oz. 4y run @ $.0283 = 3370 Loom weight 25.95 oz. $ Manufacturing: 60 picks @ $.0070 Mill cost per yard. 8986 14 75-100-Ounce Layout: 3.360 ends. Reed: 12% X 4 in dent 67.2" inside of listing. Plus 2" for listing = 69.2" over all. 54 picks per inch. Warp: 3,360 ends 2/8 run white and olive, D. T 8.40 oz. Plus 10% loom take-up. 9.24 oz. Filling: 54 picks X 69.2" = 3.736 picks 5% run olive... 6.35 02. Plus 8% loom take-up. . 6. 86 oz. Finished weight .14.75 oz. 16.10 oz. Material : COST CALCULATION. The 2/S run double twist yarn used In warp Is one (1) thread of olive brown wool, spun 2/3 draft; twist to right- 8% run; and one (1) thread ot white, 1/24 worsted; twist to right. The 1/24 worst- ed is equal to 81^ run woolen. They Covert Cloth. are twisted together to the left. 26 turns per inch, allow-ing a take-up in the length in the twisting of 4%, being tlie equiva- lent of 2-ply 8 run yarn. The b% run filling is spun 2/3 draft; twist to the left. 2/8 run double twist 50% fine wool @ 72c. per lb..= $ .3600 50% white 1/24 worsted % wool @ 84c = .4200 16) $ .7800 An ounce $ .0487 5% run filling, med. wool @ 64c. per lb., or 4c. per ounce. 9.24 oz. + 14% shrink- age = 10.53 02. 2/8 run @ $.0487 = $.5128 6. SO oz. -1- 14% shrink- age = 7.82 oz. 5Va run @ $.0400 = .312C Loom weight 18.35 oz. $.8256 Manufacturing: 54 picks 20 ends 5 run = 3.84 oz. -f 121/2% tnke-up = 1.920 ends 2/26 cotton = 2.75 oz. 4- 1 2 1," 7o take-up = 32X70.5 3 2 picks 5 1,2 run - 5 5 5X70,! lij picks 1 14 run ^ T.oom welerht 4.32 oz. 3.09 oz. 4.12 02. 9,02 oz. COST. 15% waste 8.44 oz. wool oz. (q) 31,4 c. 4,12 oz^ cotton -f 3% waste 9.93 ' V.24 iiacklng -I- • z. r,j, l%c. .. 25% waste Cost ot stock Manufacturing . , Total net mill cost. harness, straight draw. ■D^nannrjannLiBana ■■7 ■ "-■"":.""»!j a aci ■ T ■□ u'^B. ■ _ ■ ijjBD ■D-.i.B :■". . ~u aa ■ ■■■ ■■■laaai^'BB DGBC" ■Tr.JBjrCBB ■D 7w»:jC'B I., ■nan ■ ■■GBBBOBBHriBBBn DanBrQaB^DDBDnDB .3227 .0742 .2263 $ .6222 .3240 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSART 325 5 FINE FANCY WORSTED SUITING The greater part of the men's wear fabrics described from time to time have been those whicli are manufactured at a popular price and used by the large clothing manufacturers. The sample selected for analysis and de- scription liere is of an entirely different character, both in construction and stock used. Such cloths are usually sold through the jobber, and are intended primarily for the fine tailoring trade. The stock selected for man- ufacturing the yarns here used is an Australian, capable of being spun to 64s or even finer, but in the sample is spun to 40s, making a plump, round, smooth thread, that gives an Appearance and Handle to the fabric impossible to secure with any other stock. The yarns are spun on the Bradford system, are carefully inspected and practically per- fect when purchased by the weaver. For use in this type of goods the yarns are invariably skein dyed, the method pursued usually involving the use of a machine of the Ferris wheel type. In this machine the skeins are held at full lenglh by means of sticks resting in sockets on the spiders, and alternately immersed and withdrawn from the dye-liquor. The results ob- Fine Worsted Trousering. tained by this method are far superior to those resulting from the use of the old-style hand-tub. When dry the skeins are taken to the winding room and wound to si.x-inch spools, or. in tlie most up-to-date mills, Formed into Cones, a much more convenient and economical method of handling. The spools, or cones, are then placed on a suitable rack at the back of a spooler, and the yarn transferred to a jack spool tor convenience in handling in subse- quent operations. In each of these operations it is essential that the op- eratives tie a knot that will hold during subsequent transactions without slipping. Dressing should preferably be done on a wet frame, as the high filling texture (99 picks per incli) may result in considerable chafing if the warps are not sized. The question as to the sizing compound which will give the best results is one that may be left for each individual mill to de- cide, as there are circumstances connected with each case that may re- 326 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY quire treatment that would not be suitable for others. The size used in any case should be one that is readily soluble in warm water and containing nothing that is in any way harmful to the wool iibre or that will have any effect on the colors used in dyeing the yarns. The use of a suitable warp compressor in beaming the warps is strongly recommended, as in this method of beaming the Life and Elasticity of tlie Yarn is preserved, and a warp made that will give much better results in the way of production and quality of finished goods. The fixer should have the loom in Al condition before the warp is hung in, and see that every thread is in its place before starting up. Set the reed in such manner that the warp is in the center of the reed space. Should the reed itself be shorter than the space between lay ends, fill in the space with pieces of reed, as too much space is very likely to cause more or less trouble w the way of throwing the shuttle crooked. See that the reed is perfectly straight and in line with the throat of the box, also that the boxes are in the correct position in relation to the race plate. Have the harness so that the lower shade will clear the race plate nicely, yet not be high enough to throw out the shuttle or cause split bobbins. Adjust the power and sweep straps so that the shuttle reaches the box in good time, but without sufficient force to cause it to rebound. See that the stop mo- tion is oiled and works accurately and that the take-up is pulling over the correct number of teeth, if the ratchet ring type is used. When the head- ing is woven, an inch or two may be woven with the correct filling, and the Harnesses Raised One by One for the detection of threads out, wrong draws, wrong colors or defects of any other nature. If found all right, the harness looker should mark it OK, sign his initials, and the weaver may start his loom. Mills making fine fancy fabrics should have enough competent men to look over the harness on each loom at least twice weekly, as the greater perfection of product secured in this W3y will well repay the expense involved. When the pieces are taken from the loom they should be perched and measured, then pulled over a table in a good light and every imperfection marked for the sew- ers, a complete record of the details as to loom number, piece number, weaver, yards, picks, etc , being made on a form provided for the purpose, so that reference may be readily made should occasion require. Burling on goods of this grade must be carefully performed, all knots raised back and face, slugs reduced and slack threads drawn up. The burlers should also be provided with a piece of chalk and instructed to mark any Imper- fection that escaped the notice of tlie weave room percher. In this way much valuable time will be saved in the sewing room. Sewing on fine fancy worsteds requires no little skill. In order to ac- complish the best results, the sewers should Have Some Knowledge of Weaving and he able to road the chain draft, as at times it becomes necessary to replace a thread in an intricate weave, and it is essential that the system of interlacing warp and filling be known exactly. In addition to sewing in broken threads and picks, the sewers must repair wrong draws, replace hard twist and coarse threads, tight picks or wrong colors, as well as re- pair floats, holes and other imperfections. After sewing, the goods should again be inspected before passing to the next process, to make certain that every damage v.hich can be repaired has received attention. The pieces may then be taken to the wet finishing and should be carefully scoured with a pure, neutral soap. Harsh detergents of any kind should never be al- lowed to come in contact with fine goods of any description, and are par- ticularly out of place in the finishing of high-grade worsteds. When thor- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 327 oughly cleansed and well rinsed, remove from the washer, place on the wet brush and give alternate steam and cold water blowings, with the ends of the pieces changed between the operations. Extract in the Open Width to avoid wrinkles. This is a very simple process, and may be readily ac- complished in any mill with a comparatively inexpensive installation oi machinery. All that is required is a suitable roll and means for rotating it at a speed of .SOO to 1,000 revolutions per minute. The pieces may be wound to this roll direct from the wet brush. A truck fitted to carry five or six of these extracting rolls should be provided, on which they may be taken to the dryer. A frequent error is the use of too high a temperature during the drying operation. This should be guarded against, as the han- dle of the goods is very much depreciated by such treatment. Drying in the open air is much preferable to any method of artificially performing this part of the work, but the length of time required and the lack of room for tenter bars sufl5cient to dry in this way are objections that make it im- practical. In default of this, the best substitute is a chain dryer of such ca- pacity that the drying can be accomplished at a moderate heat. When dry, the pieces are taken to the brush, given two or three runs, then sheared. Lowering the Blade a notch or two between each run. A very grave mistake is made in at- tempting to shear too closely on the first cut. After sliearing, steam brush, spray and press. The result will be a fabric of which any finisher may well be proud, and that will compare favorably with any made in this country or abroad. IMany of the mills making fabrics of this grade put them through a further process, and sell them as "London shrunk." This process may be performed in several ways, one in common use being to roll the pieces in contact with a wet cloth, allowing them to remain until the moisture has entirely disappeared and repressing with a plate press. Another method of accomplishing the same result is to run them between two rolls, the lower, covered with cloth, revolving in a trough of water. The piece is then hung over bars in folds and allowed to dry naturally. The method of finish- ing here described is somewhat more expensive than the system commonly used, and is more nearly akin to that in use in the foreign mills making high-class fabrics. The extra time and expense involved are well repaid by the Enhanced Value of the Goods. The peculiarly plump, kindly handle of the fabrics cannot he developed without an expenditure of time and labor, which probably is not justified in the manufacture of popular-priced cloths. The method of finishing in use in many of the Bradford fine goods mills involves the use of falling stocks, a type of machine practically unknown in domestic worsted mills. They are used preliminary to the scouring, and aid very materially in pro- ducing the handle typical of the finest cloths. The statement is often made that domestic manufacturers cannot make fabrics equal in quality and fin- ish to those from abroad. This remark has no foundation in fact, as manu- facturers in general do not cater extensively to the fine trade, they having learned by experience that there is more profit to be made in the medium - priced goods which sell in large quantities than in higher-priced materials, which, while they show a larger profit per yard, do not permit of operating a plant on as efficient a basis because of the fact that orders for fine goods are invariably for small quantities involving the making of one and two piece warps with the attendant increase in manufactiiring charges. 32S WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY LAYOUT. COST. 6.4S0 ends; ] 6 H; reed. 6 per dent = 651.^" 16.51 oz. worsted + ~\^% waste = + 1^^" for listing = 67" over all. "" " ?9 picks. Dressed r 2/40 light slate 3 6 ! 9 2/40 darlj slate 3 3 16 2/40 blaclc 3 13 IS 17.95 oz. @ 6>4c. 5.-;.3 oz. wool 4- 6.5 oz. fg' 3 ^c . . . . is' 7o waste ■ = $1,220 ,210 Cost of stock. . ; = $1,430 .554 Net mill cost . . $1,984 IS X 24 = 432 15 sections 6.4S0 'illine: 2/40 black 4 run black . .1 1 STOCK. 1 Haaa_ aoaa^zz~~ ' aaaa_Z-Z_BajiH_zz ■i B.aaiaatii.aB aaaaaza ==;__ az-ZzztEaa z Worsted iuarp and filling) 2/40 Austr:iiian. ^ S^*^-"a»a2-^"-*S-! Wool (4 run back filling) 4-blood territory. ~, aae'r" _aaaaz"""3 ^ aa>d^iia_4.bfla ■■_■ CALCULATIONS. . .^;;__ __...;^^D^g 6.4.S0 ends 2/40 ^ 9.26 oz. + loc-, ■~B-3*aa_B3~HflBaiga take-up = 10.29 oz. r^-z'."!i»:;"='"'"s» 66X67 ■ZJ»^»«»».'::i»Sz«»»B 66 picks 2/40= = 6,32 oz. ■-; = ;:■■■• = ==-=■«■ 33 picks 4 run Loom weight 4 0X560-1-16 33X67 4 00 GUN CLUB CHECKS This type of check has become so popular of late that few lines, either of fancy worsteds or woolens, do not contain one or more books of club checks In various sizes and colors. In fact, they are so generally shown every season that they have really become practically staples, or possibly to be more nearly exact, semistaples. They are made in a great variety of colorings and a wide range of fabrics, from the low-priced iranipulated cassimere to the finest Australian woi-sted. The characteristic of this check is the color arrangement of the pattern, which invariably consists of three colors arranged light, medium, light, dark, as in our illustration, forming a check within a check. For men's wear cloths the patterns are usually dressed with either two, four or six threads of each color on the face in each pattern, but for ladies' ■wear, either dress goods or cloakings, much larger effects are orten produc- ed, it being not at all unusual to find checks two inches or more In diameter. \TOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 329 The cloakings are made usually from coarse wools, finished with consider- able nap, and invariably made from yarns oi relatively coarse numbers. The fabric selected for analysis is a ineiiuni-weight worsted men's wear, sv.ch as is used in quantity by the lar;e manufacturing clothiers. Instead of us- ing a straight draw, as is the usual custom, every fourth set of dark Gun Club Check. 'breads are drawn on alternate harnesses, giving the effect of a stripe at intervals o: approximately an inch. The yarns used in the n-anu:acture of the fabric under discv.ssitn were made from well-grown three-eighths ter- ritory wool, carefvlly strtcd and v.-ell scoured. In The latter operation, it is necessary to use great care i; the best possible fabric is to be made from the stock used. The statemen; is often n:ade that it Requires Much Less Skill to produce a sigh:Iy and sahtV.ie fabric from Avorsted and other high-grade stocks than fro n the cheaper v.-ocls and substitutes. There is much truth in mis rem.ark. bu: it is ecyaahy as true that skill and care are necessary to produce the highest possible type of merch-ndise frotii the more expensive raw materials, and it is also a fact that lack of care in some of the appar- ently unimportant processes will very much depreciate the quality of ihe finished product. This fact is seen:ing!y overlooked a: ^imes bi- those in charge of the various depcr'merrs. and results in considerable worry and anxiety on the part of the finisher and dyer v hen the finished goods are not tip to the standard. To many of those who are conversant with the manufacture of worsted cloths the preparatory processes from, raw stock to spun yarn are a sealed book. They have a more or less hazy idea that v\ orsted yarn is prepared from wool by means of special machinery, and most of tbem are aware that somewhere in the system there is a combing process, but have no definite idea as to what the comb is ncr the functions it has in the sys- tem of manufacture. There are utany engaged in the various operations of worsted cloth making who have Never Seen the Wool in its natural condition, and have but a fain: idea ►i the various pro.resses necessary to convert it into the strong, smooth thread they are accustomed 330 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY to handle. It Is generally considered that the lEanufacture o£ worsted yarns is an entirely separate branch of the industry, and tor that reason com- paratively few are conversant with both yarn production and weaving. The weaver torms his opinion of the yarn from the appearance, han- dle and breaking strength of the sample, and is totally unable to determine the cause for one lot being distinctly inferior to another of the same grade. To one thoroughh familiar with the manufacture of yarn from the raw stock, the cause of the inferiority may be readily located, and in many in- stances may be traced to lack of due care in one of the So-Called Unimportant Processes. If the best possible results are to be obtained, it must be im_pressed on the minds of every operative and overseer that there is absolutely no such thing as an "unimportant process" in textile manufacturing. Each individ- ual process is extremely important and should receive as much care as though the success of the whole mill depended on its proper performance. Wool scouring, in itself a seemingly simple operation, may be so poorly done as to reduce the value of the scoured wool to an amazing degree, and to this, the first mechanical process in the manufacture of yarns, may be traced much of the trouble that develops in other departments. It may be thought that such a s;atement is overdrawn, but many years' experience has taught us that the scouring is one of the Most Prolific Sources of Trouble that exists in the mill. This is because of the peculiar physical structure of the wool fibre itself and its susceptibility to injuries of various kinds that materially impair its strength and working qualities. To preserve the life, elasticity and luster of the wool and bring it out clean, white and lofty should be the aim of those in charge of this very important process. In order to obtain these results, it is essential that the water supply should be suitable for the purpose, that is, free from hardness, as it is im- possible to satisfactorily cleanse wool in hard water. The detergents must be of good quality, free from impurities of any kind that shall affect the wool adversely, and the temperature of the scouring bath must not be too high. Under such conditions, and these only, is it possible to secure results that are satisfactory. In preparing wool for worsted manufacture there is much less danger of injuring the stock by excessive heat in drying, as in the majority of cases it is not thoroughly dried but taken to the cards in a slightly moist condition, and not entirely free from soap. This is done as an Aid to the Carding Process, as the wool while moist is more easily opened and carded, with much less probability of injury to the staple. In every process — preparing, combing, gilling and drawing — the utmost care should be obsen-ed to preserve the uniformity of the sliver, and the drafts must be arranged with due con- sideration for the length of the fibre in process. It must not be supposed that all so-called 60s, .56s or 46s tops can be treated alike, as they will vary considerably in length, and must be processed accordingly. The numbers given tops are quality numbers, and are not supposed to be the equiva- lents of the yarn sizes to which the tops may be spun, as many suppose. The roving and reducing frames should be examined two or three times daily to see that there are no defective top rolls, as worn rolls will result in slubby. uneven yarn, and make a very appreciable increase in the cost of burling and sewing, as well as decreasing the production in the weave room. Finishing Expense Increased. The spun yarn must be doubled and twisted before it is in condition for use, and in these operations there is much room for improvement. In WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 331 many mills the spinner bobbins are put up on tlie trap twister, the inter- mediate operation of doubling being dispensed with. While apparently de- creasing manufacturing expense, this method is considered by many of our more progressive manufacturers to be false economy. The saving effected is more apparent than real, as the use of a cone winder and a doubling machine, while involving an immediate expense for installation and a con- stant labor charge, will more than offset these items by the greatly increas- ed production from the twisters and the vastly superior quality of the yarn. Efficiency and Labor Cost. True efficiency does not consist in all cases of reducing the expense of the particular process under consideration, but is obtained in some cases by increasing the cost of one operation, thus obtaining a more perfect product that in subsequent processes will permit of the elimination of much labor and waste, showing a saving much greater than the former expense, and above all, making possible the production of a more nearly perfect fabric. Yarn inspection is of vital importance in the economics of mill man- agement, and has been the subject of no little discussion as to the method calculated to secure the best results. In many spinning plants, yarns whicli are to be dyed are reeled directly from the spinning bobbins and inspected in the skein. This method, while having some good points, has more de- tects. It is difficult for the operative to find and remove all the imperfec- tions, and results, in the majority of instances, in more or less entangling of the skein, so that winding is made more difficult, with an increased amount ot waste. A much bettter method is that in use in a Rhode Island mill, where every pound of yarn made, whether to be shipped in skeins or on jack spools, is placed on the inspecting spooler. Inspecting Spoolers. This differs but little from the ordinary worsted spooler, except that there is increased space between the back and front guides, and in this space is placed a board painted black, over which the threads pass at a slow speed, enabling the operative, seated behind the spool, to readily see and remove the various imperfections. A new type of inspecting spooler, especially adapted for ease ot inspection and high relative production is the multiple inspection spooler, perfected by the late David D. McTaggart, and manufactured by the Warp Compressing Machine Company, Worcester, Mass. In this machine is combined perfection of spooling and ease of in- spection. In a suitable rack the six-inch spools or other packages of yarn are placed to the number of 24 0. The ends are laid over a fixed roll, under a roll movable in a vertical plane, which operates to take up the slack caused by the overrun of the spools, over another fixed bearing roll, down in front of a black screen which makes easily discernible the imperfections, and across to the front of the spooler, in front of which the operative is seated, tlience to the compressing spooler rolls. The machine is capable ot a high percentage of production, is fitted with electrical stop motion, and the spooling is the most perfect yet seen, each spool running off clean to the barrel with no overrun, slack ends or crossed threads. For the fabric we are to make the yarns are taken to the reels and put into two-ounce skeins for the dyehouse. The IWethod of SlceJn Dyeing now most generally used is that in which the skeins are placed on sticks in a machine of the Ferris wheel type, kept extended to nearly their full length during operat'on, and bv the rotation of the spiders alternately sub- merged in the dye-bath and raised from it. The dyes should be dissolvecj 332 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY in a tub or pail and strained before being fed into tlie dye-kettle, or un- even and streaky yarns n ay result. Do net raise to a boil too rapidly, and when the b-.th has boiled tor about twenty n in^.tes take a siiip'.e to see that the work is progressing satisfactorily. When the desired shade has been obtained, draw off the kettle, extract and hang the skeins on poles to dry, or still better, place them on a cold air drying n.achine, which will Insure much more satisfactory results. Dry thoroughly and take to the winders for transference to six-inch spools, from whicli the yarns may be readily placed on Jack spools for the dresser or winder. D.'essing and weaving should be easily accomplished, as the yarns are strong and elas- tic. When woven, inspected and measured, the burlers must raise the knots on both sides, remove slugs and bits of foreign matter, tangled ends of broken threads, etc., before sending the pieces to the sewers. The sewers must replace broken ends and picks, repair wrong draws, hard twist and other imperfections, putting the pieces in as nearly perfect condition as possible, when they are ready for scouring. For Scouring Worsteds a pure palm oil soap will be found to give excellent results, and will not require any great reenforcement with alkali, as the grease content of the fabric is small. Scour until satisfied that the goods are clean, then rinse until every trace of soap is removed, extract and dry at a moderate heat. Give a run on the polisher and shear close enough to bring every thread up round and distinct. After shearing they should be inspected and, if nec- essary, taken to the fine sewers, who will repair any defects. Brush, spray and press, allowing them to cool off in the roll. LAYOUT. CALCUL.\TIONS. 3,360 ends; 13 reed, 4 per dent = 64.6" + 3.3G0 ends 2/32 = 6 oz. + 107o take- up ^ 6.6b oz. 1^2" for listing = 66" over all, 56X66 ^, , , 56 picks 2/32 = = 6.60 oz. 5" P"-^^- 660X32^16 + 2 Dressed: ,,„,,„, , . , , r ,„ .. , „ , „, „ 1. 00m v.'e i^ht 13.-6 oz. Light slate 2/32 worsted . 2 4 21 S ,, . , . , , ,„,^ , ,, „, Diirk slate 2/32 worsted. 4 I 4 l^-'J "z worsted + lO-To waste = 14.06 oz. Black 2/32 worsted 4 I 4 COST X6 2 '32 worsted (a' 76c. per lb. 30 14.06 oz. ^i 4^ic. (stock cost) = $ .6678 . Manufacturing, 56 picks ^ .35S0 480 7 Xet mill cost $1.026S •Sections. 3,360 ■ "SEPISS" -' ' -' i-illlng. ,J, BrnBBCCB '• » Light slate 2 '32 worsted. 4 4 j 8 |.-; BJij'FSjyP ,* * 3 ' :, * Dark slate 2/32 worsted. 4 I 4 4 16 5 times. 2 times. Black 2/32 worsted 4 I 4 ~ gb'SiCC SCOTCH TWEEDS We gather from history thit Egypt, the cradle of so manv of our handi- crafts, was the birthplace of the loom and the art of wea'.'ing; France to have given us the jacquard loom, the mcst capable mcch'^nism for produc- ing ornamental woven fabrics: Ger:rany to hare increased the multiplicity of colors and shades employed in the textile trade; England to have given us the most improved n^achinery for transforming the raw material Into yarns and cloths, and Scotland may boast of being the country which gave WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 333 10 the world the Scotch tweed — the pure unadulterated tweed, with ks soft, cosy handle, its strength and its elasticity, its rich and tasteful colorings, which vie with nature lierE^elf in the harmonious blending of colors. Surely none but a Scotchman, steeped in the colorings of the heather hills, could devise such rich mixtures of colors, mingling them in such harmonious pro- portions that each blend or mixture represents in itself a little touch of "Auld Scotland" so dear to the hearts of her sons and daughters. The writer was much interested in reading in this psper, during April, articles on the "Introduction and Development of the Scotch Tweeds." The author of these articles stated the origin of the heather mixtures, which were actually copied from the blendings of the heather bloom, brackens and grasses on Buckholm Hill at Galashiels. The author also mentioned copying the blends of colors in the rocks, the reds, blues and greens mixing with the slates and neutral greys of 'the lichens. There are the well-known Lovat mixtures, originated by Sir .John Lovat, and which represent the colorings Scotch Tweed. of a Scottish moor at the beginning of the shooting season, which opens c. August 12. There are also the mixtures of browns, reds and gold, which remind one of the same moors during the autumn months, when nature runa riot with colors, and which can be seen by anyone in our own New Eng- land White Mountains, when the leaves are turning and painting the land- scape in a mass of color so rich in its harmonies and so effective in its con- trasts that the 'overs of nature stand transfixed with the beauty of the pic- ture that Dame Nature has painted for them. Most Popular Shades had Hon-.ely Origins. While it is true that the manufacturers and designers of the Scotch 334 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY tweeds have received much inspiration from the colorings of the nisseid hills and barren rocks, the writer recalls the origin of a very fashionibic shade gotten up by a Hawick manufacturer n.any years ago, wio wa . ii ss- ing along one morning by the side of the mill raceway, and noted, the dis- charge of water from the scouring rooms and dyehouse. He called to a boy, "Say, laddie, rin and tell Tam (the dyer) to cam here." Tan ca-ne. wondering what the boss wanted with him on the bank of the raceway. Possibly the thought that he had discovered too much dyestuff going down the river, but the smile on his face and his eager look belied .such a sus- picion. "Tam, man! d'ye see that water? (meaning the soapy mixture from scouring and dye room). I want you to dye me that shade." Tara dyed it, and the shade was the rage in London that season, and it is safe to say that the manufacturer did not tell of the homely origin of his "scoop" in the color world. The popularity of Scotch tweeds depends upon three things: The sterling value and soundness of the j'arns employed, the artistic and model effects of the arrangement of the colors, and lastly, great care that the dyes used should not be of a fugitive nature. The weaves used generally are the pliin cloth and the four-harness twill, probably 15 out of every 20 pieces being made up of one or the other of these weaves, the four-harness twill giving the best handle of cloth, and standing the tear and wear most satisfactorily in Saxony and cheviot goods. In the originating and blending of colors in new mixtures great care should be given to color harmony and the proportions of each color in re- gard to its complementary color. For instance, note how a bright green leaf or a brilliant emerald at the throat intensifies the freshness of the ladies' complexion; the ripe red cherries among the glossy green leaves, or the yellow pansy with its purple throat, are examples of the happy color com- binations in art and nature. In order to get an idea of Color Harmonies, mark out an equal-sided triangle on a piece of paper. On one side or angle write red, another blue, another yellow. These are the primary colors, and all others are made by combinations of these three. Between the blue and red write purple; between blue and yellow write green, and between red and yellow write orange. These are made by the union of the two neirest colors. The opposite colors of the triangle are complementary to each other. Red is complementary of green, yellow of purple, blue of orange, and so on through the numberless grades of these colors. Now, in order to give the greatest value lo any color, its complement of the same strength should ac- company it. But if a color is to be subdued, put a nearly Related color with it instead of its complement. For instance to subdue a too yellow face use yellow trimmings or gold ornaments but never purple, which is the com- plementary color of yellow and intensifies that shade. Neutral tints of different shades in combination are all right except that they look rather flat and are not especially attractive but when a higli color is used in a mixture its complement of similar strength or some color nearly related to its complement should go with it. Different shades of the same color kill each other every time. Red and purple, red and oi-ange, blue and green, blue and purple, yellow and orange or yellow and green should ncer go together except to subdue each other. They are first cousins and should never wed. It anyone desires to Experiment for Himself and find the complementary color of any other shade, let hi-n look intenfy for a minute in a strong light at a round spot of any f'incy color, thei ca^e at a piece of white paper and he will see i^s complemeritarv color re-flscted on the paper. In selecting wools for mixtures always choose a free, open WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 335 p.ool for the white and the bright, fancy colors. This wool should be some- what finer than that which is used for the dark colors. The reason for this is thit when you use a coarse wool for white and the bright, fancy shades, it gives a coarse, hairy appearance to the goods and detracts from the ap- pearance of the cloth. Coarser wools may be used in all the dark shades. The following are a few of them: 38% 3S% 1-1 % 100% 100% Med. blue indigo. Claret. Yellow. White. White. Cinnamon brown. Fawn drab. 67% Black. 25% Dark plum. S% Scarlet. Orange. Bright red. White. Green, pine tree. Tan. light sliade oak leaf after frost. 15% Heather bloom. 10% O.d gold. 20% White. 55% Olive, (greenish shade). 100% 20% Cinnamon brown. 12Mi% Dark purple. 10%, Old gold. 571/2%, White. 100% 10% lO^i 65% 100% Purple. Old gold. Apple green. White. 40%, Med. Indigo blue. 30%, Bismark brown. 30% Yellow. 100% 4 6% 35% 15% 5% 100%, White. Green. Orange. Red. Med. Indigo blue. White. Dark yellow brown. Purple. Bright yellow. Canary. Bright blue. Pine tree green. Heather bloom. Black. 100% 10% Orange. 25% Dark stone drab. 30% Heather bloom. 35% Light tan. 100% 15%, 10% 16% 60% 100% 20%, 45% 35% 100%, Old gold. Purple. Apple green. Med. navy blue. Golden yellow. White. Black. In the successful manufacture of these Scotch woolens, whether in the fine Saxonies or in the cheviot mixtures, there are a great many points throughout each department of the mill which play an important part in the appearance of the finished goods. These points, separately, may seem to a person who is not trained in the business as trifling and unimportant, but collectively they are of great moment, as each particular part contributes its share in producing a perfect piece of goods. It is by having a thorough knowledge of all these general points that the products of some manufac- turers excel so much in the general appearance and handle others who may be using the same stock, and, to all intents and purposes, making the same class of goods; yet there is a great difference in the finished product, so much so that an experienced buyer can lay his hand on the best and say, "This is the handle and finish I want." This Knowledge of "Small Things" can only be acquired by careful attention and close observation through many years of practical manufacturing in progressive mills. A successful i!36 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY manufacturer must have a thorough knowledge ot wools, not only as to grade and quality but should understand the peculiarities and nature of the different grades, and how each will card, spin and finish. It is also essen- tial to have a good general knowledge of the processes of finishing the va- rious fabrics, in order to be able to select and blend the most suitable wools for any particular fabric and finish. It is well known to all practical men that wools which are suitable for one fabric and finish may be quite inap- propriate for another one. For fine mixtures and twists the wools should be very carefully selected, as imperfect and faulty wools will cause specks in the mixtures and uneven or twitty yarns; but such wools may be used in solid or dark colors if the yarns are not to be spun very fine. All lots of wool should be graded or sorted into the different lots In or- der to get the percentage of each grade, and tests should be made of each to find the loss in scouring, so that a manufacturer may know the cost of the clean wool of each lot. Clean and Lofty Wools Important. It is important to have the wools clean and lolty. not only on account of the dyeing but for the after processes of carding and spinning, as clean wool will dye into more brilliant colors, card more freely, spin to finer counts and finish up with a better luster. Wools badly scoured will not take the dye evenly, and the colors will be dull and lifeless. In cardin,g, the machines will "gum up," the roping will be uneven and twitty, and there will be a large percentage of waste. Wools well scoured and prepared make easy work in the card room and good results in all the after processes. By far the best results in wool scouring are obtained by the use of potash salts, in fact, no other alkali should be used in wool scouring. This is fully borne out by nature, which invariably assimilates the most appro- priate substances. The natural grease of the wool consists of nearly half its weight of carbonate of potash, hardly a trace of soda being present. The difference between the use of potash and soda for this purpose is very mark- ed. Potash softens the wool, making it handle lofty, and also to a certain ex- tent bleaches or whitens it. while soda has a tendency to make the fibres harsh and gives it a dull appearance. Let us now pass the carding and spinning of the yarns and turn our attention to the Design Department and its relation to the success of the mill. In order to produce novelty in design, a large amount of painstaking work must be bestowed in the ef- fort. We have too tew designers who can really devote a proper length of time to the work, and too few m.anufacturers who supply the needed stim- ulus in the shape of good textile journals and selected patterns from other centers of trade. These samples are not for copying, but tliey give a stim- ulus in ideas for color combinations and in fabrication of cloths. There has not been much in woven design of late years in Scotch tweeds. The weave used has been principally the four-harness twill, and the design has been made by the combination of colors and mixtures, enhanced by the skillful use of fancy threads for stripe effects, these fancy threads in many cases being fine silk yarns, and it is here tliat skillful arrangement of pattern and colors shows to advantage. Harmonious colorings are always wanted, and it may be truly said that the first thing the merchant or consumer looks at is the color, or the harmony of color, employed in tlie desisn, and unless this is pleasing to the eye, the fabric however well made will find but an indifferent market. Strictly speaking, the buyer purchases the cloth on the merits of the colors, the quality, of course, being right, rather tlian on the merits of the weave or the pattern design. Woolen and worsted fabrics glossary z'i The Scotch tweed is made both in the fine Saxony wools and in the coarser crcssbreds and cheviots, but it is more in the cheviot qualities th_it we find the characteristic Scottish mixtures, the coarser lustrous wools showing up the rich combination of colors to greater advantage, and in some way the quality of the wools harmonize with the general character of both color and fabric. But if the same strong colors were used in the mix- tures of fine Saxony woolens, the effect would be incongruous, and lacking in harmony and adaptability. In the fine Saxony tweed the colors are more subdued and softer. Tlie designs are neat and unobtrusive, but there is a certain character in the Saxony cloth that is distinctive, and it does not need strong or loud mixtures to make it so, but rather the reverse. Scotch manufacturers are continu:illy experimenting in new combinations of wools to get new effects, and a fine mohair wool may be used in varying propor- tions, also Llama wools, etc. Finishing. The finishing of Scotch tweeds is a very important p:.rt, and requires careful attention, as the handle and appearance of the finished product is as essential as the color or design, and an unsatisfactory finish would con- demn a cloth however good it may be in all other respects. The usual proc- ess is to scour the goods before fulling, as this gives a more lofty handle to the fabric and brighter colors. A light scouring liquor is best for this pur- pose, say about 1% to 2 ounces of soap to the gallon, and this 'may be strengthened by adding a few pailfuls of a liquor made up with ammoniated potash, which will assure a thorough saponification of all oils, etc., in the goods, and allow of its being readily rinsed off. The fulling soap should be almost neutral and made up of pure materials. The goods while in the process of fulling should be kept cool, very little fulling being needed, a^ tlie characteristic of the cloth is loftiness and softness of handle, and any cxlcss of fulling would render it stiff and boardy. In the final scouring, after fulling, use plenty of warm water, not over 110 degrees, rinsing well, and give a few pints of aqua ammonia in the last scouring bath, which will insure the thorough saponification of all fatty acids and guarantee bright, snappy colors in the goods. After the soap is all rinsed out of the goods, Give a Bath of Fuller's Earth, which has wonderful softening and cleansing properties that are much ap- preciated by all Scottish finishers. Tlie rsual proportion is two pailfuls of the refined eartli to a barrel of water, and use six pailfuls of this solution in a four-string washer. Run for 15 to 20 minutes, and rinse well in cold water. This tre.^itment will give a very soft and kindly handle to the goods. After extracting the goods, roll them up under heavy pressure on a roll, and let them lie o\ernight. Dry next day at as low a. temperature as is con- sistent with the production of tlie mill, and before shearing give the pieces a good brushing on a steam brush. Do not she.xr close, cut off any rough fibres, but leave all the fine, short nap. Give a good run on the dewing ma- chine, and let it 'ie some hours before pressing. Press medium, and let goods lie on roll until cold. 335s WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY SCOTCH SAXONY TWEED. LAYOUT. 6 16 1,920 ends; reed 9 li — — — = 66" Inside listing + 1" for li-stlng -= 67" over all. 3 4 3 u arp pattern: Thrds. Twist ....111111 11 1111111 =15 White 111111111 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 =18 Grey 11 i i =4 Silk 3 =3 4(1 threads In pattern X S patterns X 6 sections = 1.920 ends. YARXS. Twist 5x5 runs, left twist: 5 7o grev and white, twist light (12 turns). White 2Vi runs, right twist. Grey 21,4 runs, right twist, 50Tf white mix. Silk 20/2S white. Filling: Black 2% run, spun soft, right twist, crossbred wool. 720 ends 5x5 run twist = 2^4 runs = 3.20 oz. 864 ends white ^^ 2 ^.t runs = 3.S4 oz. 192 ends grey, 50% = 2 i:^ runs = 0.S5 oz. 144 ends white silk ^= 20/2s = 0.27 oz. Filling, 67" X 36 picks = 2,412 -)- 2 % run = S.77 oz. 16.93 oz. Plus 1070 = 1.69 oz. Loom weight IS. 62 oz. Finished weight, 15 oz. 7,S9 oz. warp yarn, fine wool + 10% + 15%, waste allowance = 10.20 oz. 27 oz. warp silk + 10% + 3% waste allowance = .31 oz. 8.77 oz. filling crossbred + 10% + lr,% waste allowance = 11.34 oz. COST. 10.20 oz. fine wool @ 56 cents per pound = $ .3570 .27 oz. silk (rj) $3 per pound =* ,0506 8.77 oz. crossbred @ 44 cents per pound = ,2411 $ .6487 Manufacturing charges: SC picks @ 94/100 = .33S4 Extra tor twisting = .0124 NOVELTY CHEVIOT DRESS GOODS The demand for novelties in fabrics for ladies' wear has led to the use of a great variety of unusual and. freak yarns in the offerings for the pres- ent season. A large proportion of these require the use of special machinery in their manufacture and are rendered expensive from the fact that they are produced slowly and entail a large number of operations in their prep- aration. In the case of the ratine and eponge yarns this is particularly noticeable, as the loop, or knot, must be made on a special twister and a binder thread afterward put on by means of another operation. It will be readily understood that each process in the production of a yarn or fabric adds materially to the cost of manufacture and must be figured in the price of the goods. A large number of the dress goods into which novelty yarns are woven Have Been Woven in the Grey and colored Into solid shades, the only unusual feature being the peculiar type of yarn from which they are constructed. The fabric chosen for anal- ysis here is made from relatively coarse yarns in two-ply of contrasting colors. From examination of the finished sample it is impossible to deter- mine whether the shades were both made by top-dyeing, or the b'ack was top-dyed, twisted with a white, and the fancy color is the result of piece- dyeing. The texture of the fabric is somewhat low, counting only 38 threads per inch in the warp, with an equal number in the filling. Instead of em- WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 339 ploying a somewhat tighter weave, as is customary in most instances with a C-oJi ot compaiativexy low texture, the direct opposite is the case, and the six-lia.ness even-sided twill has been used. The result is a rather loosely wc en clolh, but one that should prove very satisfactory for the uses ioi which it is intended. There are many reasons to suppose the goods are woven black and white, with the white colored in the piece. The advantages to be derived fiom this msthod are many and will be readily appreciated by anyone con- versant with manufacturing processes. By this method a larger part of the waste made will be in an uncolored condition, thereby commanding a higher price and a much more ready sale. A still more important consideration is the fact that a great variety of styles can be made from the same warps, a fact that means many times the difference between a successful season and one that proves unprofitable. By weaving the goods black and white, it is possible to put larger quantities of yarn in the warps, which means a Saving of Expense In the Spinning mill, and this method also permits of better deliveries to customers of desirable colors. If the goods are made from slub-dyed yarns, it is neces- saiy to put in process warps of each shade sold, but by the piece-dyeing method it is only necessary to weave the black and white, get them ready for the dyehouse, and color the desired shades as they are needed to fin oide's. The yarns are spun on the Bradford system from crossbred wools of good staple, but not particularly high grade. For the goods here described a quarter-blood wool was used, probably a South American. After sorting and scouiing, the stock was carded, put through the slubbing gill boxes and placed on a Noble comb. After combing, the top from which the black was to be made was put through a gill box and wound into balls ready for the dyehouse. In some mills it is still the custom to color tops in a machine primarily intended for yarn in the skein, but the great amount of waste made and the unsatisfactory results achieved have led to the installation of more modern methods in the majority of plants. One of the most satisfac- tory appliances for coloring worsted tops is an arrangement essentially as described. The balls are packed In a suitable receptacle around a central perforated spindle, and the whole submerged in a t^nk containing the dye- liquor. A pump is piped to the central spindle and forces the hot dye-bath through the stock, securing perfect penetration and Absolutely Level Dyeing, with no injury to the tops, which is more than can be truthfully said of some of the processes in use. When the desired shade has been obtained, the dye-bath is drawn oft, the tops cooled and rinsed in cold water. After extracting, the balls of top are sent to the back washer, where they are thoroughly cleansed and dried. From the back washer they proceed through the necessary gilling process, then into the drawing room, where, by suc- cessive doublings and drawings, the fibre is finally made into a roving of the size required to spin the yarn necessary for the goods to be made. Meantime the white stock has passed through a series of similar opera- tions, aside from the dyeing, and has been spun into yarn ready for the doubling. In some plants it Is customary to double and twist in two opera- tions,- while in others the trap twister is used, which permits of performing both operations on the same machine at one time, a considerable saving in labor and expense. In making the two-ply the twist should not exceed eight turns per inch. When twisted the yarn should be wound on six-Inch spools, from which it is transferred to the dresser spool by Means of the Inspecting Spooler. This differs somewhat from the ordinary type of spooler in that it is op- erated at a much lower rate of speed and has between the front and back 340 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY guides a space of some 20 to 30 inches. In this space is arranged a board which is painted to contrast with the yarns to be inspected. Over this the yarn travels at a speed which enables the operator to detect imperfections and remove them, saving much valuable time in the finishing room, as it will be easily understood that imperfect yarn may be removed here much more readily than from the woven cloth, and at a materially lower cost. The warps are made on a dry dressing frame and transferred directly to the loom beam, as there is no danger of chafing and breaking during the process of weaving. The use of a Warp Compressor while beaming is a distinct advantage, as it allows of dressing and beaming without undue strain on the yarn and permits of placing a considerably greater yardage on the beam than is possible without an appliance of this nature. Not only is it a saving in thrums and head ends because of the greater length of warp possible to place on a beam, but the warp is ap- preciably firmer, weaves better, and has the natural life and elasticity of the yarn preserved to a marked degree, making a distinctly better piece of goods than can be produced without its use. Fabrics of this type are particularly well adapted for weaving on the two-loom system, as the yarns are strong, have no tendency to chafe and should run with a minimum of breakage from beginning to end of the warp. If the loom is well adjusted when the warp is started there should be prac- tically no occasion for the fixer to touch it for days at a time, aside from the necessity of replacing a broken strap or a part that becomes worn. A very important feature that is overlooked by some weavers is the Proper Oiling of the Loom. Unless this extremely important detail receives attention at proper inter- vals it is impossible to get the production that should be had from the weave room. In not a few cases it has been found that the chief reason for the unsatisfactory wage earned by a weaver is the lack of care given the loom and inattention to the proper oiling of the parts. It is impossible for any piece of machinery to do satisfactory work If it is allowed to become clogged with dirt or stiff from lack of proper lubrication. It Is not by any means an unknown occurrence for weavers to so mistreat a loom that it Becomes Fit for the Scrap Heap, while another, bought at the same time and used under practically the same conditions, remains, to all intents and purposes, as good as new, simply owing to the tact that one has been operated by an intelligent weaver, while the other has been abused by an inferior type of operative. Under good average conditions it should be possible to attain an ex- tremely good production at a low cost for supplies and overhead expense, as the looms, preferably 82-inch, may he operated at a speed of 110 picks a minute, and should give no trouble at that speed if well cared for. In fact, it is common practice to operate 82-inch looms at 120 picks per minute on much more difficult fabrics than the type here analyzed. It must not be understood from the foregoing that excessive speed is advocated, as it is an incontrovertible fact that High Speed and Production are not in a direct ratio. There are many instances that can be cited to prove that a reduction of sneed has increased the production. There is a point where an increase of speed ceases to nn^an an increase of output, and the skilled overseer will be guided by conditions in his department, in de- ciding as to when the limit h.^s bppn reachpd. Tt wou'd be the height of folly to put forward the claim that the looms should be operated at a certain speed under every condition. That hi.eh speed with strong two-ply warps and comparatively easy weaves is feasible cannot be successfully disputed, WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 341 but that the same sneed should be used with single or tender warps of fine yarns is not to be thought of, and if one has so little good judgment as to u.-de lake it, la' uie v. ill be the inevitable result of such a trial. As soon as convenient, after coming from the looms, the pieces should be measured, inspected, the imperfections marked and the necessary memoranda made iu a book or on sheets provided for the purpose, so that such detailed in- formation concerning each piece may be readily available should it become desirable to look it up at any time. The burling and mending should re- quire but little time, as the goods should be comparatively tree from knots, slugs or broken threads. From the sewing room the pieces are taken to the washer and thor- oughly scoured, then put through the crabbing machine and are Ready for the Dyehouse. There should be no difficulty in bringing tlie goods out even in color and free from shades if the preliminary operations have been carefully performed. One of the most common sources of uneven results in the dye- house is the crabbing operation, and this should have careful supervision. On the completion of the coloring, tlie pieces .'•hould be cooled off and rinsed before they are removed from the dye-kettle, then immediately ex- tracted and dried. The drying is usually accomplished by means of a chain dryer, which carries the damp cloth into a drvins: clri^iber. wliere tlie air is heated by means of steam pipes. Care should be observed not to dry th-e goods too rapidly, as the handle of the goods is deteriorated by exces- sive heat. A single run over the shear is all that will be necessary, then the pieces may be brushed, sprayed and pressed. Ij.wout. cost. 2,044 ends; 7% ree,], 4 In dpnt = 64" + HJ'' "''■■ + '''" «'aste = 11.87 oz. IV2" for listing = C5.6" over aU. ,,•? 't"- P.L'r "',-■;■, = * -HH ,„ , , llanuructunng, 3S picks = .2300 o a picKS. CALCULATIONS. Net mill cost $.7938 2.044 ends 2/24 worsted = 4.SG6 oz. harness, straight draw. + .s7o take-up";;". ;■.'.'.'. .= 5.12 oz. ^ "SSSna 38X65. 5 5 LrnrBT M picks 2/24 = = 5,92 oz. O rq ■■■ 24X660H-2-i-16 Loom weight 11.04 oz. □^ enrr l_ [i, ■H„Dn« WORSTED SHEPHEED FLillD Domestic manufacturers of dress goods are not given the credit they deserve in manv iiist^n'"'^'?. Tp Koiijno- ,, - eg pro's n-'o:- ih° con'i 'er, f"r rp dv to-wear gowns, many of the sales force are tempted to insinuate, if not to state boldly, that the fabrics are th - product of foreign manufacturers, when, if the truth was known, the clo'h or gown in (luestion is entirely a domestic production, made from woo s grown in our own country, the yarns manufactured by a domestic spinner a id the goods woven in one of our New England mills. Fortunately, the wor 1 "foreign" is not of as great weight with the consumer as formerly, experence hai'ing taught many buyers that domestic cloths are as satisfactory and. in many cases, of more intrinsic worth than those from abroad. The many buyers who have been told so often by the liigh-'^riced department stores that 'these models are all made from imported fabrics" and "it is impossible to obtain the beautiful lines of this gown if we use domestic cloths" should take these stories with a liberal .allowance of salt. In the great majority of cases the fabrics are the production of domestic manufacturers, and the model was desi.gned in a "studio" on .Manhattan Island. The fabric shown 342 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY herewith is made from a fine territory staple wool, spun to comparatively high counts, giving a fine texture with relatively light weight. The use of a fine wool not only permits of producing a flne, light-weight cloth, but also gives a fabric that lends itself readily to the draped effects that are now so popular a feature of garments for women's wear. In addition to this very essential feature, it also possesses a particularly soft, silky handle that can be obtained only by the use of a flne, well-grown, healthy wool. There are many reasons why fabrics of this type are more p 'rticularly adapted for production in combed than in carded yarns, especially it they are to be used in women's apparel. One of the most important is the fact that a much lighter-weight cloth may be made, and another is tliat on the worsted system it is possible to produce a thread that is much finer than any that can possibly be manufactured witliout the aid of co'iibs, and by using these fine yarns it is a comparatively easy matter to produce A Cloth •f High Texture, which enhances the appearance of the fabric very nnteriallv. T'len. too, the inherent differences in the yarns, made by these two totally dissimilar methods of production, have a very decided effect upon the ultimate ap- pearance of the t7i)ished goods. To one fairiliar with the procedure in "-ak- ing worsted and woolen yarns this statement will need nothing in the way of confirmation or explanation, but for the enlightenment of th'^se "'iT^ bgve never had the pleasure and privilege of seeing the manufacturing processes of both systems, a short explanation of each may be of interest. In the production of carded, or as they are generally termed "woolen" yarns, the operations are few and comparatively simple. The wool is given a certain amount of oil, varying with the grade and amount of other stocks used in combination, run through the mixing picker, which thorou.ehly opens and mixes the stock, leaving it in first-class condition tor the cards. Carding Most Important. This is possibly the most important department in a woolen mill, al- though some of our friends who are dyers and finishers may take exception to such a statement. Nevertheless, the extreme importance of good work in the card room will be admitted by everyone, as it may be st teri with no fear of successful contradiction, that careless work in this department means greater expense, less production and Inferior results in every suc- ceeding process. The primary object of carding is to complete the mixing and opening of the wool which was begun in the mixing picker, making an even and liomogeneous hlend of thp various co'nrs "nd otn^i.-s, a^r) to ,.piTP the mass of stock to ribbons of suitable size for gplnnlne Into thread. The fundamental difference between a woolen and worsted thread is thn in the latter there is hut little effort toward the p^ralieMzatinn of thp fi- bres, while the whole tendency and aim of the worsted system Is to pro- duce a thread, every fibre of which shall be Laid Straight and Parallel to each other. In the woolen system, it is the custom to use three cards in a set, termed the first breaker, second breaker and finisher. The three ma- chines are very similar, and each does its part in practically the same man- ner as each of the others, the principal difference being in the manner of feeding and delivery. The first breaker is fed by a mechanism that auto- matically weighs and delivers to the feed apron the amount of wool requir- ed to make the desired size of yarn, and as this is carried into the c^rd by the traveling feed apron, another portion of ctock is weighed and deposited directly behind the former, so that a continuous feed of even weight is de- livered to the feed rolls. The card consists essentially of a main cylinder, usually 48 inches in diameter and of the same width, covered with leather Woolen and worsted fabrics glossary 343 or cloth, thickly studded with fine wire similar to the teeth of a comb, which engage the stuck auU cany it lorward. At intervals there are set smaller rolls, termed workers, also covered with wire clolhing, the teeth of which also engage the stock and tend to comb it out, laying the fibres nearly par- allel. These are, in turn, cleared of the stock by the Smaller Strippers, which return it to the cylinder, which carries it to the next worker, where a similar process takes place. The number of workers varies with the size of the card, but is seldom less than five. Behind the last worker a short space intervenes, and the stock comes in contact with the "fancy." This does no carding, but is designed to raise the stock so that it may be re- moved irom the main oliiKier by the dorfer. fi-oiii which it is taken in a flat web by the comb and carried away in rope form by the side drawing apparatus. The side drawing is fed to the second breaker, where the same proc- esses of carding are repeated, and the stock discharged in the same man- ner and deli\'ered to the linisher card. This is si i ilar to the first and sec- ond breakers, except at the delivery end, where instead of one dofter com- pletely covered with wire there are two s i-aller doffers which ha\-e alter- nately a circle of wire and an empty space, the wire of the upper doffer be- ing opposite the blank space of the lower. From these the stock is removed by small rolls covered with corduroy, and the ribbons of stock delivered To the Condenser, wliere they receive a rubbing between aprons which have a sidewise re- ciprocating motion as well as a con.stant forw ird travel. The "roving," as it is now called, is wound on spools by a suitable mechanism, and is ready for the spinning process, which is invariably performed on mules. It will be readily seen that the partial parallelization of the stock during its prog- ress through the cards is in a large measure overcome by the effect of re- moving it in the form of a side drawing, a motion at right angles to its di- rection of travel through the machine itself. On the other hand, the man- ufacture of worsted yarn is carried on by a system of machinery that at all times retains the fibres in the same relative position. The carding is per- formed on a double cylinder card, and the web removed through a station- ary trumpet in the direction of motion through the card and wound in a ball. These balls of slubbing are placed in a preparing gill box which fur- ther straightens the fibres by drawing them through a set of fallers, pro- vided with pins which have a combing action on the slubbing. From the gill box it goes to the machine, which rolls four ends of slubbing in a ball ready for the comb. The tsual type of combs used in domestic mills is the "Noble" or "Great Circle" Comb. The essential features are suitable carriers for the balls of slubbing and a feeding motion which delivers the slubbing to the circle. The great circle is set with pins, as are also two smaller circles, set diametrically opposite each other, the circumferences of whicli are nearly in contact with the in- ner circumference of the large circle. The sluhbing is forced into tlie pins of both circles, and as they revolve at even surface speeds, the long fibres of wool are drawn out and removed by a set of aprons in a continuous rib- bon of "top." The short fibres, burs and other foreign matter are raised from the pins of the circles and fall to the floor. In each succeeding process the operation is one of reducing the size of tlie sliver by drawing it in in a straight line, each succeeding machine drawing in the oppo- site direction from that immediately preceding, thus tending to make a uniform sliver. By means of successive doublings and drawings the sliv«r is reduced to a suitable size of roving to produce a yarn of i44 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY the desired size. In the Bradford system of worsted manufacture, here described so briefly, tlie spinnin; is usually done on cai3 or flier tran-.es or occasioijony on a ring; f.-a:: e, soldo n or never on mules, while the French system invariably uses mules for the spinning ot the yarn. From the foregoing It will be seen that woolen and worsted yarns are not, as many suppose, spun from different fibres, but are both made from wool by a Different System of Manufacture. It is impossible to obtain the same effect on the finished goods from fabrics woven from tlie two types of yarns. Tlie w.jolen s.istem is adapted for certain fabrics and the worsted for others, there being no real compar- ison between fabrics manufactured from wool and worsted, as each may be the best of its type and yet be totally unlike. From the methods used in producing the yarns it will be readily understood that for fabrics requir- ing deflniiion of p:ittern, cl.;arneES and distinctness ot design and color, the worsted thread offers advantages that are far beyond those to be had from the wool yarn, while tor the production of goods, the face and colors of which are to be, as our English friends say, melded together, the wool thread is unsurpassed, and the effect can hardly be approximated in fabrics constructed from combed yarns. On the other hand, the use of woolen yarns for the production of fine textures in dcsigi-S that reouiie sliar]) ou;lines wit'i c!ear-cut color figures, will result in much inferior effects than are possible to the user of worsted in such constructions. The original use of colors in woven design is shroud- ed in antiquity, but that the art of dyeing was well known to the ancients is attested by their many references to colored fabrics used as clothing and for decorative purposes. In the early history ot the .lewish people we read that the favorite son of Jacob was sold into bondage by his brethren as a result ot their jealousy, his coat of many colors being the mark ot the greater regaro In which he was held by their father. In more recent times The Love of Color was exemplified by the figures woven into the blankets and basketry of savage races. Each tribe had its emblem woven into their blankets and bas- kets or molded into the pottery manufactured by the most primitive of methods. A probaMe surviv .1 of this an'-ienf custo;ii is the dis:iiicti e tar- tans dedicated to the various clans of Scotland. To one familiar with the colors and their arrangement in the plaid it is possible not only to name the clan but oftentimes the particular branch to which the wearer owes al- legiance. The shepherd plaid seemed not to be the insignia of a family or clan but to be dedicated to the use of herdsmen of all sections of the country. It is the simplest of all in both color and pattern, being no more than an even check of black and white, a favorite size being four threads of each color in both warp and filling. For men's wear purposes the size may be increased to doi.tle that number of th,'eads, while in fabrics for women's wear it is not uncomn'_on to see tlie size increased To Nearly an Inch of each shade. The manufacture of this type of fabric is not especially dif- ficult except in one particular. It must not be undertaken except in a mill that is kept scrupulously clean, as a spot on the surface of the white will show up with startling distinctness. The best effect is obtained by using a bleached white with a black that has a distinctly blue tone. Bleaching may be done in the skein e'th";' ^^ i !i pe.-oyide ( r Hli so 'i ■ ■• hisilpin'-p ihe lat- ter method being preferred by many as requiring no special apparatus nor training in iis use. The dressi/g 'md weavinfr p--p dore i'l th- rrlinirv m n- ner, care being taken that every piece of machinery used is free from iron rust, dirt or oil where it may come in contact with the goods. When woven, WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 346 the pieces must not be allowed to come in contact with the floor, but be placed on scrays provided for that purpose. As one old Scotch manager Worsted Shepherd Plaid. used to say, "Ye'll need tae pit legs under them," and his meaning was not only to have them kept from the floor but to hasten them through the va- rious processes, not allowing thern to lie about in any department, lest they become soiled. During burling and sewing, the operatives must exercise care to keep the goods from the floor, and before placing them in the washer see that it is free from any bits of dirty, oily flocks which may have fallen from goods previously scoured. The scouring may he done with any standard grade of soap, although a tallow soap should not be used, in fact, is never necessary for scouring worsteds, and is not tolerated in many finishing rooms. Wheu thoroughly clean, extract, but not too dry, then put on the dryer and dry at a moderate heat, as too rapid drying has a tendency to give the fabric an Inferior handle. Brush, shear and take to the fine sewers, who should find very little work on goods of this character. After an inspection to see that the work of the sewers h is been well done, the goods ninv b'^ brushed snray- ed and pressed, and are then ready for the final examination, preliminary to rolling up for market. L.-WOUT. C.VLrULATIONS. 4.032 ends; 15V3 reed. 4 In dent =- 60" + 4 r.;;- en.I.s 2/50 = 4. COS oz. + 10% 1^" for listing = 60 1.4," o\-er all. t.ike.iip ^ 5.12 oz. 68 picks. OS X CO. 5 ^ , OS piik.i 2/50 = = 6.16 oz. Dre.sslng: 00x560^10-^2 2/50 bleaciied white... .32 32 I.,Mnn weight 10 28 oz 2/50 black 16 16 I 32 Pinislir-.l \\ eight 9 oz. 64 C0.=4T. '^ 1II.2S oz. + 71;.% waste = 11,11 oz. ,.„ iSi !)(lr per lb = $ .6666 ■i'" Manufaituring, OS picks = .4000 ^ Uj., Net mill cost $1.0666 •Patterns. fSectlons. ' " ^ harness, straight draw. "Weave. M DDBBnaBB '^^.■Doaaaaa 346 WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY MORGAN & CO. 170 Summer St., Boston, Mass. iU^ Clinton H. Scovell & Company Certified Public Accountants Industrial Engineers 44 Central Street, Boston, Mass. Constructive Accounting, Audits, Investigations, Costs Industrial Engineering Special Experience and Important Practical Success With Textiles Our Model A Double 'rhear saves its extra cost over a single shear in one year Cloth Finishing Machinery Nap Gig Perch Wind Double Inspect Measure Pumice Spotproof Yardnumber Trademark Shear Steam Brush Weigh Roll Polish Stretch Luster Decatize Sand PARKS & WOOLS ON MACHINE CO SPRINGFIELD VERMONT USA WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 347 INDEX AU Wool Thibet 136 Angles of Twills 36 Astrachan Cloaking 256 Astrachan Cloak. ng, Cotton Warp ....25S Bannockburns 53 Beavers 239 bedford Cord 237 Bedfoid Cord for Men's Wear 302 Blue Meltons, Government Standard . .312 Boy's Suiting 266 Broadcloths 295 Cap Goods 113 Carriage Robes 6S Cassimere, Fanc\' 321 Cass mere, HeavN'-weigttt 96 Cass. meres 241 Cerise Cloth 15S Clrecked Chinchilla 171 Cheviot, Fancy Nub 167 Chinchilla 134 Cliinch.l.a, Checked 171 Clay Worsteds 208 Cloaking, Astrachan 256 Cloak ng, Astrachan Cotton Warp 25S Cloaking, Automobile 70 Cloaking, Imitation Ch,nchilla 187 Cloaking, Ladies' Double-Face... 74 Cloaking, Plaid Back 246 Corkscrews 209 Cotton Mixed Cassimeres 283 Cotton Mixture Thibets 121 Cotton Warp, Astrachan Cloaking 258 Cotton Warp Shirt.ng Flannel 165 Cotton Worsteds 211 Covert Cloth 317 Coverts and Venetians 271 Crepe Cloth 153 Cross Dyed Worsted Suitings 162 Double and Twist Suitings 224 Double Cloth Mackinaw 49 Dress Goods, Brocaded 190 Dress Goods, F.gured 154 Dress Goods, Novelty Check 184 Dress Goous, Novelty Cheviot 338 Dress Goods Suiting 262 Duvetyn Suitings 220 Eponge 140 Fancy Back Prunella 127 Fancy Cassimere 321 Fancy Nub Cheviot 167 Fancy Twill Knickerbocker Dress Goods 315 Fancy Worsted Suitings for Men's Wear 200 Fancy Worsted, Unfln.shed 150 Figured Dress Goods 154 Fine Fancy Worsted Suiting 325 Fine Plaid Back Ladies' Cloaking 246 Fine Qual.ty (Men's Wear) Suiting. . .260 Frieze 66 Gabardine Dress Goods 233 Gun Club Checks 328 Hair Line Dress Goods 57 Hair Lines for Men's Wear 267 Hair Line, Wool and Worsted, Three Color ISO Heavj'-we ght Automobile Cloaking... 70 Heavy-weight Cassimere 96 Heavy-weight Whipcord 260 Homespun 86 Homespun Fabrics 263 Imitation Astrachan 77 Imitation Chinchilla, Novelty Cloaking. 187 Imitation Furs 318 Juvenile Suits and Trousers 83 Kersej's 305 Ladies' Coating Fabric 69 Ladits' Double-Face Cloaking 74 Ladies' Double-Face Goods 104 Ladies' Suitings 264 Ladies' Suitings 94 ^lackinaw. Double Cloth i9 ^lack naw Fabrics 253 iledium-weight Boys' Suiting 266 Meltons 290 ilen's Wear Pencil Stripes 116 Alixture Overcoatings 62 Moniagnac 145 Needle Cords l2o Niggerheads 199 Novelty Check Wor.3ted and Cotton Dress Goods 184 348 WOULEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY Novelty Cheviot 197 Novelty Cheviot Dress Goncis 33S Novelty Cloakings 217 Novelty Cloaking Im tation Chin- chilla 1S7 Outing Flannel 230 Overcoating, Pla d Bac'.: Llama ITij 26-Ounce Cotton and Shoddy Twist Overcoating 3"4 26-Ounce Twist Overcoating 303 Pencil Stripe, Unfinished 142 Piece Dyed Brocaded Dress Goods. -.iriQ Plaid Back Homespun '^Inaking 251 Plaid Back Llama Overcoating 176 Poplin, Silk Stripe 14S Prunel a, Fanc\' Black 127 Ratings 205 RatinS Cloaking 310 Ratine Serge 212 Regatta Stripe Ladle.' Suifng 2."iO Russian Novelty Blanket 47 Russian Twill Dress Goods 90 Serges 226 Shepherd Plaids and Tartans 232 Shirting Flannel, Cotton "Warp 1C.5 Silk Str pe Poplin lis Scotch Tweeds 332 Tartans 232 Textile Cost Finding 30 Textile Fibres ."i Thibets, AH "Wool ]3i; Thibets, Cotton Mixture 121 Tricots 213 Tweeds 91 Tweeds, Scotch 332 L'lster or Overcoating Cloth S8 Unfln'shed Fancy Worsted 150 L'nfinished Penc 1 Stripe 142 Uniform Fabrics, Cadet Greys 247 A'elours 203 Venetians 101 A'igoureux Printing 33 Whipcords 195 T\'hipcord, Hea\-\'-weight 260 AV( ol and "Worsted Three Color Hair L nc ISO Woo: Crash 79 Wc.len Novelty Dress Goods 279 WO'jlen Suitings 109 A"\'o': 1 Mixing and Carding !■' Wool Plush 22S AA'c.il Si.irtlng and Scouring 10 Wool Spinning 22 Wo'.sted Cheviot Cloakings 194 "\"\'orsted Cheviot Men's Wear 196 Wi:rsted, Cross Dyed 162 Worsted Diagonal Dress Goods 193 Worsted Diagonals 131 AVorsted Shepherd Plaid 341 A"\"oi-stcd Suiting, F ne Fanc.\- 325 Worsted Yarn Manufacture 26 Ziln-'line Coatings 12-5 specialists in Cost Reduction O. W. HOLMES CO., 15 State Street, Boston Efficiency Engineers Mechanical Products Waldron H. Rand & Co. Certified Public Accountants 59 Temple Place BOSTON WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS GLOSSARY 349 I Other Valuable Textile Volumes I The Textile Buyers' Key Containing a complete method for Cost Fnding for both Cot- ton and Woolen goods. This Key was cofDpiled more for the use of the selling agent and buyer than the manufacturer and is profusely illustrated. This booklet is pocket size, leather bound in blue and is stamped in gold. Not quantity — but value Sent postage prepaid on receipt of sale price THREE DOLLARS The most complete, concise and quick method for Tex- tile Cost Finding is given in this work. Cotton Mill Construction and Management Every process and method of Construction, Equipment and Management are described from the selection of a site for the mill through to cost finding methods, in foi r parts urder one cover. 1. Mil Construction and Power 111. bleaching, Dyeing and Finishing II. Cotton Mi;l Mdnagement. IV. Cotton Mill Cost Finding. Seven hundred pages, bound neatly in green with gold stamping THREE DOLLARS, postpaid Designers and Weavers Pocket Manual A small book with a big reputation. This, the thiid and last edition, is nearly exhausted. In this small voluTie the fundamental princi- ples of textile designing are concisely edited and b jund for the use of the mill man, with all rules for designing, finishing, transposing, numbering, yarns, ranges, etc. This little book contains full explanation of 280 different weaves. Bound la Light Buckram. THEY SELL FOR ONE DOLLAR Pub ished by FRANK P. BENNETT & COMPANY, Inc. Boston New York Philadelphia Washington Chicago 'il, till' lit'i I'i ',1 '[ 'ifaMt n fF B I 1 ill 1 i rt lii! 'itl'iiil iiiilliaiii