/f 5'/ CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Jtll Q ^ 'i:'' r \-«\\ dsBh y/«fi)/ Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028921992 SCENES AT MONTEREY. XoUR American Library Association Pacific Coast, SEPTEMBER 30th to NOVEMBER 4th, 1891. Section i of Constitution of American Library Association : — "Any person engaged in library administration may become a member of the Association by signing the Constitution and paying the annual assessment. Other persons may in the same manner become members after election by three-fourths vote of the Board." r A6\ Printed by ALLEN, LANE & SCOTT, PHILADEI PHIA. X v/ 10 ANNOUK©E.A4ENT. -©- (^5»HE American Library Association at its 1890 session decided Tlu^ that tiie next Conference should be held in San Francisco, i\J^^ but left to the Executive Committee the arrangement of dates and routes for the trip. The delay in perfecting these details (which should have been announced much earlier) has been due to the difficulty of settling on dates which would satisfy a majority of the members who wished to attend the Conference, and on routes offering sufficient interest and variety without too great expense. A canvass of members having indicated October as on the whole the best month for the tour, and the northern routes having been ex- cluded from consideration because of the lateness of the season and the increased length and expense of the trip, it has been finally decided to start from Boston on the evening of September 30th, and from New York the morning of October 1st, for a five- weeks' trip under the direction of the Pennsylvania Railroad Company and its personally-conducted tour- ist system, according to the itinerary published herewith. The itinerary published in the Library Journal for June was announced prematurely by mistake and has been abandoned because better terms have been ob- tained by another route. Mr. Dewey having resigned the Presidency because he was unable to attend the Conference, at a meeting of the Executive Committee held July i6th, 1891, in Boston, Mr. Samuel Swett Green, of Worcester, Mass., was elected President of the Association, and Mr. Frank P. Hill, of Newark, N. J., was chosen Secretary to fill a vacancy. (3) WHO MAY GO. Members of the American Library Association and also all other librarians, assistants, and trustees eligible to membership, together with their families and intimate friends, are entitled to the privileges and re- duced rates of this trip. As to other persons, it seems to the Executive Committee (in view of the danger of overcrowding the trains, of impos- ing upon the hospitality of our California friends, and of introducing a not entirely sympathetic element) that it will be unwise to encourage any others than the families and intimate friends of librarians and trustees to ioin the excursion. If any other " outsiders " wish to join it is suggested their names be submitted to the Executive Committee, who will decide whether space can be spared for them without crowding out members and their friends. RATES. The price of tickets for the full excursion to San Francisco and re- turn will be : — From Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, or any other points on the Pennsylvania Railroad system (including the Pennsylvania, Northern Central, Philadelphia, Wilmington and Baltimore, Baltimore and Potomac, Washington Southern, West Jersey, and Cam- den and Atlantic Railroads) east of Pittsburg, $250.00. From Pittsburg, Cincinnati, or any other points on the Pennsylvania system between those points and Chicago, I240.00. From Chicago and points on the line west to Pacific Junction, $225.00. From Pacific Junction and points on the line west as far as Denver, $210.00. From Denver, $205.00. Side trip coupons and meal tickets not used will be redeemed. These rates cover transportation, sleeping-cars (one double berth, upper or lower, to each person), meals, hotels as indicated in the itin- erary, and, in short, every necessary expense of the whole trip out and back, except while at San Francisco. Passengers from points on the Pennsylvania Railroad through which the special train does not pass will be furnished transportation to and from the nearest junction point. Passengers from points through which the special train does not pass on the return trip will be furnished free transportation from nearest junc- tion to the point at which special train was taken westbound. The rates do not include Pullman accommodation or meals except while traveling with the party. BAGGAGE. All baggage to which access on train is not absolutely necessary should be checked in advance to San Francisco or Denver via route of tour. A Special Baggage Master who accompanies the party will attend to rechecking baggage at all necessary points. Baggage to which access on the train is necessary should be checked by Eastern tourists to Chicago ; west of that point to Denver ; and also bear one of the Pennsylvania Railroad's special tags which will be furnished each passenger at time ticket is purchased. This will insure its being placed on the special train. The special tags above referred to are to be filled out by the tourist with name and hoine address, to serve as a ready means of identification. EXTRA CHARGES AND REDUCTIONS. For the nine days at San Francisco the headquarters of the Associa- tion will be at the Palace Hotel, where board will cost from I2.50 per day upward, according to the number in a room, location of the room, and extra accommodations. These expenses for board at San Francisco must be added to the excursion rates given above to make up the full cost of the trip. If two persons are willing to occupy one berth they can save f2i.oo each on the price of a ticket from Boston or New York, or |i6.oo from Chicago. On the other hand one person can occupy a whole section on pay- ment of I50.00 extra for the trip, provided the space can be spared with- out crowding out other persons. Rates for drawing-rooms and other extra accommodations can be learned by application to the Secretary. The business of the conference will probably be begun Tuesday morning, October 13th, and continue until the following Friday afternoon or Saturday morning. The programme of meetings and excursions will be announced in the September Library Journal. If, as has been suggested, there are any persons who wish to attend the conference, but cannot spare the full five weeks, or wish to remain longer in California, they can get tickets entitling them to full accommo- dations with the excursion out to San Francisco and railway transporta- tion only from San Francisco back to New York, good for six months, for $195.00. The sleeping car and meal charges on the return trip would then cost about $35.00 extra. The question having been asked whether tickets out and back, with- out meals or Pullman accommodations, can be had by those American Library Association members who wish to attend the Conference more economically, it may be said here that passage from New York to San Francisco and return, without the side trips or any extras, can be had for $138.00. This would entitle the holder to passage on the ordinary cars of regular trains, but not on the American Library Association special train. REGISTRATION. All who contemplate joining this excursion are urged to write at once to Frank P. Hill, Public Library, Newark, N. J., or if they join at Chicago or beyond to C. C. Pickett, Law Institute Library, Chicago, stating : — 1. If they intend going (or if they wish to go but cannot yet decide); 2. If any members of their family, or friends, will accompany them ; 3. At what point they will join the party going westward ; 4. If they wish separate berths or sections. Tickets will be sold through the offices of the Pennsylvania Rail- road, on presentation of certificate of membership, at 205 Washington Street, Boston ; 849 Broadway, New York ; 233 South Fourth Street, Philadelphia ; corner Baltimore and Calvert Streets, Baltimore ; and Thirteenth Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington. In Chicago at office of J. H. Luce, Assistant General Passenger Agent Pennsylva- nia Line, No. 65 Clark Street. Assignment of berths will be made by Mr. Hill. For the Executive Committee. SAMUEL SWETT GREEN, President. P'rank P. Hill, Secretary. ITINERARY IN DETAIL For Tour of the American Library Associatiox. ® from BOSTON, NEW YORK, AND PHILADELPHIA, TO THE PACIFIC COAST. Under the Management of the Personally-conducted Tourist S\stem of THE Pennsylvania Railroad Compxsw HOW THE TOURISTS TRAVEL. The train for the conveyance of the party to and from San Fran- cisco will consist of Pullman Vestibule Drawing-room Sleeping Cars, a Dining, and a Composite Smoking Car. In fact, it will be in all essential features an exact counterpart of the world-renowned Pennsylvania Limited, which, by universal verdict, is the handsomest and best ap- pointed passenger train in existence. The party will be accompanied by a Tourist Agent, assisted by an experienced lady as chaperon. A brief sketch of the cars in the order in which the train is made up will serve to give a faint conception of its magnificence. The Pullman Vestibule Composite Car is exclusively a gentleman's car. The forward end is set apart for baggage. A compartment in- troduced between the baggage-room and the main saloon is fitted up as a barber-shop and bath-room. A regular barber's chair and all the paraphernalia of the tonsorial artist are at hand. The rear section of the car is a smoking-room, furnished with comfortable rattan arm-chairs, a lounge, a sofa, and two writing-desks, each surmounted by a small case of selected books. The Pullman Vestibule Sleeping Cars composing this train are the best examples of nineteenth century car building. Each contains (7) twelve sections of two double berths, and two drawing-rooms, contain- ing t«o double berths and a sofa. Inclosed toilet-rooms for ladies and gentlemen occupy separate ends of the car. The Dining Car is not only a dining-room in which forty people, dis- posed at ten tables, can dine in the most comfortable manner, but it con- tains a kitchen in which four cooks can prepare meals for thrice the seat- ing capacity of the car, a storage-room for the provisions, ice-chests for wines, china-closets, linen-lockers, and the entire outfit of a large res- taurant. The kitchen at the forward end is equipped with four ranges, on which every variety of cooking is easily done. The most skillful housewife would hardly believe that so much work could be accom- plished in so contracted a space, yet by the economizing of every inch and the ingenious employment of every device that cunning hands could originate, the purpose of the dining car is achieved most successfully. The dining-tables are fixed in the body of the car, and accommodate four persons each, allowing ample room for the service of a meal in courses. Glistening silver and glass ware vie in brilliancy with the spot- less linen, and above the tables, in the spaces between the windows, potted plants are placed on shelves set in the hard wood. A conspicuous advantage of the dining car and one that is apprecia- ted most highly by all long-distance travelers, is the regularity with which meals are served, and the liberal time allowed for taking them. The serving of breakfast or dinner is not dependent on the arrival at a desig- nated meal station, nor is the limit for consuming it confined to the dys- pepsia-breeding period of twenty minutes; but between fixed hours the meals are ready, regardless of where the train may be, and one may tempt a perhaps capricious appetite as free and untrammeled as to time as if he were seated in Young's, Delmonico's, or the Bellevue. Leave Boston in special Pullman sleeping car, attached to the Boston and Philadelphia night express, New York and New England Railroad Station (Sum- mer Street) 7.00 P. M., Worcester (via Putnam) 7.40, WEDNESDAY, Willimantic 9.40, Hartford 10.45, Meriden 11.27 P- M.; SEPTEMBER 30th. New Haven 12.01 midnight, Bridgeport 12.35 A. M. ; arrive at Philadelphia 6.40 A. M. following day. Break- fast in the Broad Street Station restaurant. Remain in Philadelphia until 10.05 A. M., when the special train is due from New York. Leave New York, Pennsylvania Railroad Stations, foot of Cortlandt and Desbrosses Streets, by special train (as described elsewhere), at 7.40 A. M. (Brook- lyn, via annex boat, at 7.00 A. M.). Leave Jersey City 7.53 A. M. Leave Philadelphia at 10.15 A. M., where the New England party will join the special train. Leave Harrisburg i.io P. M. A daylight ride over the Pennsylvania Railroad ; arrive at Pittsburg 8.25 P.M., where a stop of a few minutes will be made. Eastern time becomes Central time at Pittsburg, and watches should be set back one hour. The night will be passed en route to Chicago via Pittsburg, Fort Wayne and Chicago Railway. THURSDAY, OCTOBER ist. Arrive Chicago ri.oo A. M. (Central time) and leave via Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad 11.30 A. M. (Central time). On the Chicago, Burling- ton and Quincy Railroad, through the States of Illinois and Iowa, and cross the Missouri River at Pacific Junction during the night. FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2d. On the Burlington and Missouri River Railroad, through Nebraska and the beautiful region of North- ern Colorado, reaching Denver in the evening. SATURDAY, OCTOBER 3d. The next two days will be spent in Denver, one of the most pushing and cultured cities of the plains. It is not only the social and commercial centre of Colo- rado, but of the outlying States. Within a figurative stone's throw of its walls are the world-known cattle ranches and silver-producing sections. The industry of wresting the precious metals from their rocky pris- ons is carried on upon a very extensive scale and may be seen a short distance outside of the city. As New Orleans is the gateway of the West, so Denver seems to the returning traveler the portal to the populous East. During the stay luncheon and din- ner will be served at the Albany and Windsor Hotels, the party lodging and taking breakfast on the train. SUNDAY, OCTOBER 4th, MONDAY, OCTOBER 5th, TUESDAY, OCTOBER 6th. Den\er will be a thing of the past as the train steams out at i.oo A. M. (Mountain time) and at 6.00 A. M. reaches Colorado Springs or Manitou. Ample opportunity is afforded of thoroughly seeing this charming city nestling under the shadow of Pike's Peak. Here the climate is grand, and the scenic attractions unrivaled. Seven miles away is the fa- mous resort of Manitou, with its world-renowned "Garden of the Gods." Luncheon and dinner will be served at Antlers' Hotel. In the evening the voyageurs will retire on the train. Leaving Colorado Springs at 3.30 A. M. (Mount- ain time) at 5.00 P. M. Glenwood Springs is reached WEDNESDAY, where until 8.00 P. M. the time will be most OCTOBER 7th. profitably employed in visiting the marvelous Springs, indulging in the baths, or driving and rambling about the picturesque locality. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 8th. The ride on during this day abounds in the in- teresting, and at Grand Junction a change is made to the Rio Grande Western Railroad, running through the mountains of Colorado and Utah, beneath snow- clad peaks, and through wild canons to the placid waters of the Great Salt Lake, reaching Salt Lake City 11.45 A. M. The day may be devoted to visiting the interesting institutions of the Mormons, as well as inspecting thoroughly the city, which has so much to teike and hold the Eastern eye. Luncheon and din- ner will be served at Knutsford or Templeton Hotel, and tourists will retire in the train. Leaving at 6.00 A. M. via Rio Grande Western FRIDAY, Railroad, and running on to the tracks of the South- OCTOBER 9th. em Pacific Company, through Utah, Nevada, and at night entering the borders of California. Arrive at Sacramento, over the Southern Pacific Company, at i.oo P. M. (Pacific time). The capi- tal city is one of the handsomest in the State, thriv- ing in the midst of the great fruit-growing district. The three hours' stop will be spent in visiting the Capitol, Art Gallery, and man>' points of interest. At 4.00 P. M. the special will leave Sacramento Saturday^ and reach San Francisco at 8.45 P. M. (Remain on October loth. train until next morning if desired.) During the visit in San Francisco trips will be made to Monte- rey, Santa Cruz, and San Jos^ on regular trains. Coupons for railroad transportation will be included in the ticket. No hotel accommodations, however, in San Francisco are included in the ticket. -©- SAN FRANCISCO. When the zealous and aged Franciscan monk, Junipero Serra, es- tablished his sixth mission among the Pacific Coast natives, and named it after his supporting patron, he little dreamed that upon the barren and desolate spit of sand where he planted his crude, wooden cross and held a mass under no other roof than heaven's blue sky, an opulent and populous city would one day live. His little band came to a halt on the present site of the great city and formally took possession, just one week before the most important act in America's history, its Declaration of Independence, was signed. For three-quarters of a century old Padre Serra's settlement remained unvisited save by occasional whaling vessels that put in for provisions. Even at the time gold was discovered only four hundred whites comprised the population on the peninsula of San Francisco. The old mission is still one of the most interesting sights of the Pa- cific Coast metropolis. It was removed during the last century from its original location to its present site on Dolores Street, just two blocks from Market. The adobe walls of the original building are still stand- ing, and in a little niche over the front door hangs the old bronze bell on the same rawhide ropes by which it was suspended over a hundred years ago. Close beside and in the rear of the church is a wretchedly cared for graveyard, in which the blackened and weather-worn old tombstones attest the virtues of the monks and civil officials who began the civiliza- tion of Alta California. The quaint, old church is still used as a place of worship, and is the only monument left of seventy years of Spanish rule. A very good idea of the country as it appeared to the Spanish set- tlers can be obtained by a drive through the Golden Gate Park, the best way of reaching it being by the cars on Haight Street, which run out IFh H LSl- Market. This line terminates at the Park entrance, where hackmen are always to be found who, for two dollars, will drive a party of four by the conservatory, and through the superbly-planned flower gardens, en route to the Cliff House, which is located on the ocean, four miles away. Only a portion of the park has as yet been modemly improved, and the drive for most of the distance passes numerous ridges covered by a scanty growth of scrubby firs. The Cliff House is one of the chief sights of San Francisco. Directly in front of it, not three hundred yards out in the ocean, are the roclcy islets selected by hundreds of seals for their sportive playground and homes. The air resounds with their hoarse barkings as they clumsily climb over the rocks or swim about in the cold, green waters of the sea. At the ClifT House the carriage may be dispensed with, for that which remains to be seen in the park can be visited better without a ve- hicle. From the Cliff House the visitor can proceed on foot about two hundred yards up the road to the broad, white gateway of Mr. Adolph Sutro's handsome grounds, "Sutro Heights." Through the courtesy of the owner these charming grounds have been made free to the public. Some of the most beautiful and artistic designs in floral decorative gar- dening have been executed by the corps of landscape gardeners. The floor-like walks are adorned with statuary and uniform shrubbery, and the whole atmosphere of the place denotes the presence of wealth and excellent taste. From the extremity of the grounds a commanding view of Seal Rocks may be obtained. Opposite the entrance gate to the grounds the steam railway carries one back again to the city along the water's edge, affording a beautiful view of the Golden Gate, and also passes within short distance of the Presidio Reservation, now the head- quarters of the United States Military Department of the Pacific ; from here it runs to Central Avenue, where connection is made with the California Street cable-cars, which run every few minutes into the busi- ness centre of the city. The private residences along California Street are noted for their magnificence. Among the conspicuously elegant on Nob Hill are those of Senator Stanford and Charles Crocker, which ad- join each other, and that of Mrs. Mark Hopkins. One other sight of San Francisco, which should be visited by day- light, is Telegraph Hill. It is about a mile from Market Street straight out Montgomery, and rises to a height of three hundred feet above the water. The most picturesque quarter in all of San Francisco, the one most talked about, and the equal of which cannot be seen in any other city on the continent, is the Chinese quarter. It embraces a district four btocks one way by three the other, where live or exist from twenty-five thou- sand to thirty thousand human bemgs. In every building within this boundary they literally swarm. With an incredible disregard of all san- itary as well as moral laws, they live and thrive in these dens in a way which would revolt even the most degraded Caucasian. Chinatown can best be seen in the nighttime, when a guide is indispensable. These 14 are easily engaged, as connected with all the large hotels are profes- sional guides, who are ready at all times to make "slumming" safe. Should a Chinese guide be preferred, one can be obtained upon inquiry at any of the large Chinese fancy goods stores. It is possibly more sat- isfactory to make these little trips in small parties, say of two or three. The variety of occupations and the amount of business done by the Celestials is astonishing. The goldsmith is working here with the primi- tive implements of a past age, yet turning out delicate specimens of the finest work ; curiously-dressed professors of the tonsorial art who, not content with shaving the beards of others, must needs shave their heads ; apothecaries, whose stores contain curative agents not known to our pharmacopoeia, and who fill prescriptions that for size and variety would have astonished even one of the "old school ' ' practitioners a century ago ; grocers, who carry enormous stocks of imported Chinese delicacies ; restaurant-keepers, whose establishments are remarkable for costly and lavish decorations ; butchers, pawnbrokers, shoemakers, and shopkeep- ers of all sorts and variety ; fancy goods stores, carrying stocks of great value, and whose remarkable and often rare specimens of Chinese work- manship can be obtained at prices as a rule reasonable. A visit to the Chinese Joss house, where the idol sits enthroned in splendor, will prove interesting ; but the most striking scene of all is to be found in the Chinese theatre. The stage properties are meagre to say the least, and of the rudest order. There is no curtain, no scenery, and no furniture except a rough table and one or two chairs. The orchestra, which performs upon curious archaic instruments, sits upon and in the rear of the stage. The performers are all males, some of whom, of course, must impersonate the female characters. The want of a stage curtain is a serious defect in American eyes, for it certainly impairs the vivid reality of an effective scene when the heavy villain, who has just been stabbed and restabbed, rises and walks off with the most amiable of smiles. However, the Mongolians seem satisfied, and as they constitute ninety-nine per cent, of the audience, criticism is uncalled for, and undoubtedly would be in bad form. There are other sights in Chinatown, such as the fan tan gambling houses and drinking saloons, which had better be seen only under the guidance of a de- tective. Visitors to the city will find little use for carriages. There are so many hills, and they are so steep, that, as far as time is concerned, it can be made as well afoot. The street-car system is excellent, and the 15 service is good. When one has visited the Mission, the Cliff House, Telegraph Hill, and Chinatown, there remains little of the city to be seen except the stores on Montgomery and Kearney Streets, and the shipping along the river front. A trip to Oakland, across the bay, will repay a visit, as it is a residence suburb of San Francisco. MONTEREY. From San Francisco the traveler passes through the famous San Mateo County, where millionaires' palaces assert themselves as pleasant and enviable objects of obstruction to the otherwise extended view. They are surrounded by gardens of choice flowers and bordered by for- ests of oak. En route, the city of San Jos6 is traversed from north to south, and the crystal clearness of the atmosphere enables one to see distinctly for miles as the train speeds on ; here passed a tiny colony, as a drop in the bucket to its surrounding extent of vineyards ; now a huge truit orchard, a great field of grain, or a sugar-beet plantation with its mammoth refinery, and so on through the valley of Pajora and Salinas, until, peeping out of the far-off right, a first glimpse of the beautiful waters of Monterey Bay is revealed, giving a finishing touch and effect to this perfect picture executed by Nature's hand and colors. The train stops at Hotel del Monte Station. A very short distance from here is the old town of Monterey, silently reposing in a shapely bend of the southern end of the Bay of Monterey, which Harrison's "History of Monterey County " describes : " From the earliest period of California's history Monterey has been conspicuous as the objective point of navi- gators and explorers, and the arena where were enacted many of the important political and historical events of the country. As early as 1602, Don Sebastian Vizcaino, sailing under instructions from Philip III. of Spain, entered Monterey Bay, and, landing with two priests and a body of soldiers, took possession of the country for the king. A cross was erected and an altar improvised under an oak tree, at which was celebrated the first mass ever heard in the land now known as Cali- fornia. The place was named in honor of the Viceroy of Mexico, Gaspar de Zumga, Count of Monterey, the projector and patron of the expedition. The departure of this expedition returned the place to its primitive condition, and the silence in its history was not broken for a period of one hundred and sixty-eight years. When Father Juni- pero Serra, president of the band of Franciscan missionaries sent to the coast in 1768, was planning his work in California, the most cher- ished object of his expedition was the founding of a mission at the Monterey of Vizcaino's discovery. In 1770 this cherished dream was realized, and the Mission de San Carlos de Monterey was established on the 3d of June of that year, ' being the holy Day of Pentecost,' as the father expresses it. About the year 1771 the mission was removed to Carmelo Valley, some five miles from the Baj- of Monterey, and called the Mission San Carlos de Carmelo. This was done by order of His Excellency the Marquis de Croix, and here on the banks of the Car- melo River still stands the old stone church then erected, beneath whose sanctuary repose the remains of Father Serra and three of his co-work- ers, including Father Crespi, his trusted friend and adviser. The Pres- idio, or militar)' establishment, still remains at Monterey. In its inclos- ure was the chapel which is the site of the present Catholic church, while on the hill overlooking the bay was erected a rude fort, the re- mains of which are still discernible." '7 To the imaginative, Monterey's dilapidated ruins, crooked streelis, and intersecting and winding lanes suggest immediately the weird and uncanny. How rich it has been in the romance of past days ! what a halo of vivid memories circles its head ! To-day, with back to the hills, and her poor, old, worn, but still majestic face to the sea, what must be her thoughts as the tread of the army of modern advance and im- provement breaks on her ears ! Two miles beyond the town the Pacific Improvement Company has built the El Carmelo Hotel, and skirting the pine-clad peninsular demesne of seven thousand acres has constructed the macadamized road known as the Eighteen-mile Drive, without doubt the grandest drive on the continent. This road runs from the Hotel del Monte to Monterey, and there turns to the left and ascends a long hill of easy grade. The top is the crest of the ridge which runs out from the mainland, and when standing on this summit and looking away below a scene is pictured whose grandeur conquers description. It is the fairy i8 land one might have imagined but never expected to witness. Down, down goes the road towards the bay, whose blue twinkling waters may be seen now and then through the road's border of oak and pine, spark- ling like scattered gems. In and out of shady ravines leads the smooth drive, and after many windings of gently descending grade the bay is reached. Continuing on the road, Pescadero Beach, Chinese Cove, and Peb- ble Beach are passed. The latter place has been famous for gather- ing pebbles, which many prize for the wonderful colors they possess. Right here at Monterey is the most curious and isolated species of cypress growth in the world. The bluffs are crowned with these strange trees, which cling to the rocks with fierce tenacity, their roots sprawling, cling- ing, grasping, seemingly with desperate strength, to the immovable crags which give them support. Nowhere else in the world is this species seen. What inscrutable mystery of Nature lies hidden in the singular phe- nomenon of these trees' growth ? Why should this spot, of all others in the world, have been selected for the home of this curious freak of Nature ? There is nothing so striking in the vegetable world, so sharply in contrast to familiar arboreal forms, so boldly in violation of Nature's rules and contentions, so gnarled, distorted, and grotesque, so enchanting to the fancy, and so suggestive of certain rare and grim aspects of abnormal human nature, to be found elsewhere in the known world. How the mind, in its poetic flights, could play with the possi- ble birth of these first tiny shoots ! Could the seeds have been planted by Spanish missionaries, after bringing them from Lebanon's sacred ground ? or by birds from some undiscovered country ? Surely no. Many give evidence that they were old when the Pharoahs reigned, and were singing their luUabys and bowing their stately, reverent heads in the wind, nodding recognition to the waters at their feet, when the re- mote ancestors of Don Sebastian and Father Junipero were writhing under the lash of the Moors. All along the coast, from the Carmel River to Cypress Point, peep- ing out from back of sheltering rocks, or beneath the boughs of oaks, or the sheltering tops of cypresses and pines, are the most bewitching of nooks, carpeted with a heavy velvet of grass, where, fanned with the tempered air of the sea and the fragrant odor of soothing balm from the sighing branches overhead, the most delightful of improvised lunch- eons may be enjoyed. 19 HOTEL DEL MONTE. In a garden of gardens, surrounded by thriving plants and trees from every zone, whose beauty and variety would bewilder the botanist, while employing him profitably for an indefinite period, is the Hotel del Monte. The exit from this Eden is through avenues of massive and distorted live oaks and stately pines, which guard a palace where all in nature that calls forth exclamations of delight, all that charms and heals, has been harmonized by the high-art im- provements of the nineteenth century into an enchanting re- treat of magnificence and com- fort. The limit of money was not considered in its construc- tion, and the brain service of artists and artisans of the highest order has been brought into re- quisition to give tone and fea- ture to the embellishment of this fairy realm. It is a world in itself, as the congregations as- sembled around its many boards embrace representatives from every nation, and here winter and summer the laughter of a joyous social life accords with the atmosphere and recreations of an Utopian land. Its garden covers one hundred and twenty- '"^ .-^ six acres, admittedly the most ^'*— varied in the world. Laguna du Rey (Lake of the King) covers some fifteen acres of this ground, and on its shore is a dainty casino, firom whose porch the parties on exploration and pleasure bent leave usually for whole-day outings, while those content with staying in their forest and garden home wander through the tropical walks and drives, and bask in a sunlight Easterners know nothing of. In a shady ravine not many steps from the Hotel del Monte may be seen a wonderful illustration of the oak's tenacious clinging to life. Long before man trod this spot a ^^ majestic oak was felled by the wind, and lay as dead ; but still it lived, and where there was a shattered trunk prone on the ground, now is a strange-looking miniature forest, for each branch from the trunk grew upward and became in itself a tree, ^\'hales often drift into the bay, making a spectacle worth many days of waiting to see. There are yachts and boats for sailing, rowing, and fishing. Flounder and sole are favorite varieties, while those desiring more excitement may take smelt, mackerel, pampino, and salmon. Shore fishing for rock cod may also be indulged in. The most fascinating sport in this line, however, is trout fishing in the streams, none except the hotel guests being allowed to fish in the Carmel River. The shouldering of a gun for a day's shooting usually has the good luck of a deer or two, and any number of bagged quail and dove. The hotel is a rare work of art ; excellent taste, culture, and refine- ment of the highest order have been displayed in its construction ; it is the court throne where Queen Fashion holds her levees, the magnet to which are drawn representative people from all corners of the earth for health and pleasure. Croquet plats, an archery ground, swings, ten- nis lawns, bathing pavilions, boats, billiards, pool, and all amusements for the mind and body are at the guests' command. The Eastern trav- eler coming to California's coast and failing to see " Del Monte" has indeed missed "not everything," but a goodly part. SANTA CRUZ. The route traversed in reaching Santa Cruz is alone well worth the trip, as the line passes through Newark, Santa Clara, San Jos^, and Los Gatos, and crosses the Santa Cruz Mountains just beyond the latter town, presenting a magnificent territory of changing and varied scenery. The country is bold and imposing ; one is carried through caiions and along the border of great yawning precipices, and a few miles from Santa Cruz the road passes through a grove of "mammoth trees," which go far to outrival those of the Mariposa Grove. A stop may profitably be made to view the marvelous gigantic growth located at Big Trees Station. This same point may be reached bj' coach from Santa Cruz at a nominal ex- pense, over a picturesque, mountainous way. The location of Santa Cruz is delightful, embracing beautiful beaches and rocky bluffs, with a background of gardens and woods. The Lorenzo River wends its tortu- ous way through one side of the village and empties into the ocean close to the bathing ground. The Mission de la Santa Cruz, the twelfth of the twenty-one mission establishments founded by the Franciscan padres in 1791, and the origin of this present interesting and thriving place, is reached by a short walk. SAN JOSE. Fifty miles south from San Francisco, nestled in the heart of North Santa Clara's beautiful valley, is the enviable site of San Jos^. Its very MAMMOTH GRAPE-VINE AT SANTA BARBARA. thoroughfares are orchards or vineyards, and the city one mammoth gar- den of great, varied, and warm beauty, and at night, when the force of the electric light from the high tower and the lesser lights are brought to bear on this natural picture, one finds it hard not to believe in the story lands of childhood's imagination, the stories of the genii, and the power of the wands when pumpkins were turned into castles. As a town it is one of the handsomest and most thrifty in the- State. Its public buildings and churches are models of architecture, and many old points near and within driving distance will recompense an idle hour. The Hotel Vendome, occupying a square of twelve acres, is one of the handsomest and best-equipped in California, and under such ex- cellent guidance has won a deserved popularity. One of the most delightful features of the San Jos6 visit is the ride over the Mt. Hamilton Stage Line route. This is accomplished in very commodious coaches, which leave in the morning and return in the afternoon, and the company operated by Mr. F. S. Chadbourne, presi- dent, has left nothing wanting to add to the greatest possible comfort of its guests. The drive is marvelously picturesque, as the road grace- fully winds itself about the mountain to the very summit, and a taste of early staging, without the discomforts, may be had as the skilled driver manipulates the four or six in hand, headed by spirited leaders. The party will reach an altitude of forty-two hundred and nine feet above the sea, and there be rewarded, standing on the summit of Mt. Hamilton, by an indescribably grand view and the honor of visiting one of the most completely-appointed observatories in the world, that founded by Mr. Lick, the cost of which was close to j!i, 000,000. Satur- day evenings, between the hours of seven and ten, visitors may look through the great telescope, the largest in the world. I'^ETUL^^KIj^^^''. -e- Leave San Francisco at lo.oo P. M. (Pacific time) via the Southern Pacific Company, and journey south Monday, in the midst of the semi-tropical scenes of Southern October igth. CaUfornia. During the day, between the stations of Teha- chapi and Caliente, the celebrated Loop is seen. It is an ingenious engineering device for overcoming a heavy grade, and said to be one of the most skillful pieces of engineering in the world. The line crosses itself at varying elevations, and at one point, with four tracks in sight, the passenger is hard put to it to tell in which direction his train is going. Arrive Santa Barbara at 9.00 P. M. (Pacific time). This Nice of America is directly on the coast, a little over one hundred miles north from Los Angeles, on a magnificent beach. Its drives, pretentious homes, gardens are all attractive, while no small climatic credit is due to its sheltered position, screened by the high heads of the Santa Ynez Mountains, which rise in majestic grandeur at its back. The magnificent roads which radiate from the town invite equestrian exercise, which, with bathing and boating, are the principal diversions of active people. Its gardens are famed for their prolific production of roses, no less than three hundred different varieties being culti- vated in the town. The noblest of Santa Barbara's attractions is its mission church, on the slope of the Ynez Mountains, which was founded in 1786, and the last little flock of the order of Franciscan monks, in cowl and cassock clad, with head and figure bent, wander to-day down the long stone-floored corridors to their respective duties — brothers of the one order (23) TUESDAY, OCTOBER 20th. 24 who a century ago trod these same stones and answered the same religious summons. About fifteen miles from Saugus is the home of Helen Hunt Jackson's Romona. All day will be spent in reviewing Santa Bar- WEDNESDAY, bara and the environments. Luncheon and dinner OCTOBER 2ist. will be partaken at the Arlington Hotel, and at 9.00 P. M. (Pacific time) the special will leave. Arrive at Santa Monica 5.00 A. M., where a stop of six hours will enable the party to see one of the most charming seaside resorts on the coast, noted for its particularly mild temperature. The weird works of sculpture, hewn out of solid rock by Na- ture's tools, the ocean, wind, and sun, are the de- light and study of many. Bathing is a sport to be enjoyed at any season of the year, either on the beach or in the pavilion, which is fitted up in splendid style, with rooms for hot and cold sea-water bathing. En route to the coast over this short run one passes highly-cultivated vineyards and orange groves, and few more picturesque situations can be imagined THURSDAY, than the colony of Santa Monica. OCTOBER lid.. Leaving Santa Monica at 11.00 A. M., an hour places the tourists at the gates of Los Angeles. An hour will be spent here, and at i.oo P. M., vja the Southern California Railroad, the run to Redondo Beach will be made, reaching there at 2.00 P. M. The trend of the shore suggested its Spanish name Redondo {round'). The town is most beauti- fully situated on a gentle, rising slope. At its feet the musical voice of the beating waves on its floor- like beach and at its back miles of rich, tillable land. The chief attraction here is "The Redondo," a mag- nificent hotel, elegantly furnished, heated by steam and open grates, with a complete electric and heat- ing plant, and elevators — in fact every modern con- venience. One point to visit is the Fishers' Camp, 25 where the "old salt" sits smoking his pipe and spin- ning his yarns, as an accompaniment to mending his net or boat. Rocky Point is a picturesque mass of rocks covered with moss and barnacles, jutting far out into the sea, and the seal rocks are novel attrac- tions. Dinner will be served at "The Redondo," and the party will retire on the train. Leaving Redondo Beach at 5.00 A. M., Pasadena will be reached at 7.00, where a stop of eight hours and a half will afford an opportunity of visiting Bald- wm's Ranch and numerous other points of interest, for like all of these originally Spanish settlements, Pasadena's history is interwoven with the romantic. It is really the nucleus around which clusters for miles in circuit the active growth of modern improvement on the moss-covered ruins of a past glory. At mid- winter its gardens are all blooming with floral frag- rance, and its mild climate renders it a highly-favored resort for those in pursuit of health. The San Gabriel Valley, of which Pasadena is the crown, is about forty miles long and about ten wide, and at the ex- FRIDAY, treme western portion, in a network of beautiful groves OCTOBER 23d. and vineyards, is Pasadena, covering an area of five miles, laid out in the most artistically-arranged gar- dens, drives, and walks. Its suburbs embrace a north, southj east, and west portion of the city ; and walking or driving for miles in any direction will reveal old ruined chapels peeping out from ivy-cov- ered walls, forming a striking contrast to the modern architectural creations close by. Among the ranches are San Morino, noteworthy for its old oaks, caiion, and large park ; then the Stoneman and Winston, with ancient groves, vineyards, and old houses. Southeast from the city is the largest winery in the world, and within comparatively short driving dis- tance are the Sunny Slope and Baldwin Ranches. SCENES NEAR PASADENA. 27 On the latter are some of the highest-bred horses in America. South of Arroyo Park, which skirts the heels of the San Rafael Hills, and is in reality a dry river bed transformed into the most beautiful of parks, is the famous ostrich farm, which promises to be one of the most important industries of Southern California. The nests, eggs, and young ostriches, with the method of taking their plumes, can be seen. Drives about Pasadena are as picturesque as numer- ous, down the Verdugo Cation and home by Eagle Rock Valley, where a gigantic rock, shaped like a human skull, juts up from the soil, and a drive along the famous trail of the late General Fremont is filled with interest. These ramblings can be extended in- definitely through ranches and groves and along the border of lake and river ; but time is limited One mile from Pasadena is El Malino (old mill), sup- posed to have been built by the fathers. It is now a crumbling ruin. Leaving Pasadena at 3.30 P. M., Los Angeles FRIDAY, is again reached, and the party will be located at October 23d. the Westminster and Hollenbeck Hotels until break- fast the following day, inclusive. The Spanish appropriately named it, " La Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles ' ' (town of the Queen of the Angels), and so it deserves, for surely no more ideal spot for health, scenerj', climate, and pleasure can well be imagined. It is situated on a slope of the Sierra Santa Monica, guarded and fortified against every possible chilling wind, in the midst of gardens, vineyards, and groves, yet as a city it has every con- venience of transit and modern advanced improve- ments. Its residences present perfect pictures, sur- rounded as they are by parks, orange groves, and the most tempting walks. As a health resort and liberal possessor of a wealth of natural beauty, it has a fame now too well known to be further delineated. It has been described by one writer as the "peaches and cream" of the Golden State, and, though the simile 28 may be somewhat homely, the tourist spending any time 'neath its genial sun and in its tonic atmosphere will appreciate the sentiment which evoked it. It is a magnificent centre, from which diverge innumerable spokes of interest. The rity itself is undoubtedly de- stined to become the social metropolis of the Coast, for the climate must make it the choice spot for resi- dence, and the business activity and railroad facilities are growing every year. Within a short distance by rail are the interesting towns of Anaheim, Santa Ana, San Pedro, Wilmington, Orange, and Westminster. Leave Los Angeles via Southern California Rail- road at i.oo P. M. (Pacific time), and arrive at San Diego at 6.00 P. M. San Diego of "ye olden tyme " was some four miles north of the modern city, thus offering, in our age, innumerable places and points of interest in and near this picturesque town of yesterday and progressive city of to-day. Historically it is the oldest California mission town on the southern seacoast. On a narrow peninsula separating the waters of San Diego Bay from the ocean is Coronado Beach, where the mammoth Hotel Del Coronado stands in majestic grandeur^ with a magnificent beach on one ocTOBER'LVh. ^'"^^ ^^'^ 'he blue waters of the bay on the other. It is unquestionably one of the most attractive resorts in Southern California. The hotel is palatial in finish, imposing in structure, and embodies every modern improvement, including a complete electric lighting and steam heating plant. A ferry plies between the old town and the beach, and thence by steam railway to the hotel. In its gardens fruits from the tropic and temperate zones ripen side by side, and the sweet odor from its artistically designed flower beds is a per- fect lotion of refreshment. At night when the electric lights illumine the playing fountains, and here and there the resting waltzers may be seen strolling along the flower-bordered avenues, or perhaps seated in SATURDAY, 29 some bowered and picturesque nook, and the notes from the orchestra are carried out on the mild air, one well imagines some fairy scene so often read of in younger days. The tropical court on the grounds is esteemed the most marvelous in the country. The beach is pronouncedly the fine.st in the world, and bathing may be comfortably enjoyed throughout the year. Horseback riding is a favorite pastime, and a good livery contributes the means of indulgence in this delightful sport. The party will be located at Del Coronado Hotel until dinner inclusive, Monday, October 26th. At Del Coronado Hotel. At Del Coronado Hotel during the day and re- tire on train. SUNDAY, OCTOBER 25th. MONDAY, OCTOBER 26th. Leave San Diego via Southern California Rail- road at 2.00 A. M. (Pacific time), and reach River- side at 7.00 A. M. Luncheon will be served at the Glenwood Hotel. Leave Riverside at i.oo P. M., and reach Redlands at 2.00 P. M., where a stop of three hours has been arranged. The situation of Redlands on the beautiful hills, over a thousand feet above the sea level, would have won for it, had it been independent of the rich agri- cultural surroundings, a just reputation as a health re- treat. Nothing is more inspiring than standing on the porch of any of the cozy dwellings and looking down over gracefully-sloping groves and winding avenue to the valley far below, or directing the eyes and atten- tion overhead to the snow-capped tops of the shelter- ing neighboring mountains. At 5.00 P. M. a start is made for San Bernardi- no, which is reached in thirty minutes. This is the capital of the largest county in Cali- fornia, and has sprung into active growth and influ- ence, not without merit, as at its very door is the TUESDAY, OCTOBER 27th. 3° WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 28th. THURSDAY, OCTOBER 29th. FRIDAY, OCTOBER 30th. SATURDAY, OCTOBER 31st. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 1st. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 2d. richest, black, sandy loam in the State. Not, how- ever, alone to its soil cultivation does it attract exclu- sive importance, for all the silver in California is pro- duced from this county. At 8.00 P. M,. the train leaves on its eastward race. The day will be spent en route via the Southern California, Atlantic and Pacific, and Atchison, Topeka and Santa F^ Railroads. At 8.00 A. M. (Mountain time) the special train will arrive at Santa F^ and not leave before i.oo P. M., thus giving ample time to view this, one of the oldest American cities of the West. At 6.00 P. M. Las Vegas Hot Springs, will be reached, and the party quartered until breakfast in- clusive next day at the Montezuma Hotel. Leave Las Vegas Hot Springs, at 9.00 A. M., and run through Northern New Mexico and Western and Central Kansas all day. Arrive at i.oo P. M. (Central time) at Topeka, where a stop of four hours will enable the party to view many points of interest. Leave Topeka at 5.00 P. M., and reach Kansas City at 7.00 P. M., where, until luncheon inclusive next day, the hotels Midland and Coates will be used. Leave Kansas City via Hannibal and St. Joseph Railroad at 6.00 P. M. (Central time), and journey through Missouri and Illinois to Chicago. Arrive at Chicago via Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad at 9.00 A. M. (Central time) and re- main during the day's stay at the Auditorium Hotel. A day for a visit to the various points of interest in the city, including the parks and stock-yards. Leave Chicago for the East via the Pennsylvania Lines at 11.30 P. M. (Central time). 31 On the Pennsylvania Lines through Indiana, Ohio, and over the main line of the Pennsylvania Railroad, through the celebrated scenery of the Al- legheny Mountains. At Pittsburg a stop of three hours will give time to visit some points of interest. Leaving Pittsburg at 8.00 P. M. (Eastern time), the run will carry the special train along the Conemaugh Valley, by the new Johnstown, around the Horse Shoe Curve, and through the Juniata Valley. Eastern time east of Pittsburg is one hour faster than Central time. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 3d. Arrive in Philadelphia 7.30 A. M. (Eastern time) and New York 9.30 A. M. The tourists will be transferred by coaches to Grand Union Hotel, where luncheon will be served, and will complete their return journey in parlor cars on the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad, leaving New York at 12.00 noon for Boston, arriving there at 6.30 P. M. WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 4th. Distances from New York. Total distance, going . ... 3629 miles San Francisco to San Jos^, Monterey, Santa Cruz, and return to San Francisco . . . 294 " Total distance, returning ... . . . 4193 " Total distance covered . 8116 The special train traverses the States of New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado, Nevada, California, Kansas, and Missouri, and Territories of Utah, Arizona, and New Mex- ico — 12 States and 3 Territories. Pennsylvania tours GOLDEN GATE. -ffi- The successful inauguration, during tiie past winter, of a series of personally-conducted pleasure tours to the Pacific coast, by the Tourist Department of the Pennsylvania Railwjad Company, has served to draw marked attention to that branch of the Company's service. This series of tours, four in number, was eminently successful in every respect. The tours were conducted on a scale which had never before been attempted. The tourists were conveyed to California in special trains, made up in exact imitation of the celebrated Pennsylvania Limited, and containing all the special features for which that train has become famous. In each case the entire train, consisting of Pullman Vestibule Drawing-Room Sleeping, Dining, Smoking and Library, and Observation Cars, went through to San Francisco, carrying the parties over the choicest routes, and stopping for a longer or shorter period at every principal centre of interest. When the limit of the tickets had expired the returning party found the same train at San Francisco, ready to bring them to their homes over a different route from that used in the west-bound trip. A Tourist Agent and Chaperon accompanied each party. There was also a stenographer and typewriter on the train, for the free use of the tourists ; a ladies' maid to attend upon the ladies ; and numerous other conveniences never before enjoyed by transcontinental travelers. The rates, which included all necessary traveling expenses en route in both directions, as well as side trips to the choicest resorts in Califor- nia, were so reasonable as to come within the reach of every one. The very high-grade manner in which the tours were conducted at- tracted to them the very best class of people, who lost no opportunity of testifying their complete satisfaction. No similar undertaking ever (32) 33 received such unstinted praise from those it was designed to benefit, and such substantial encouragement satisfied the Company that the tours filled a place in the field of travel which, up to that time, had retnained vacant. With so great a measure of success won in the first season, the Com- pany makes its announcement for the coming winter in the full assur- ance that, with new and popular features added, the tours will be even more attractive, and, consequently, more successful. GOLDEN GATE TOURS OF 1892. For the winter and spring of 1892 a series of four tours to Cali- fornia has been arranged. In addition to these, a fifth tour will be run to Mexico, which will also include California. The first tour will leave the East early in January. Stops will be made at all the large cities and points of interest en route, and an attractive list of side trips in California will be included. This party will remain six weeks on the coast, leaving San Francisco for home early in March. The date of the departure of the second will be fixed toward the latter part of February, so that the members of the party may reach New Orleans in time for the Mardi Gras Carnival, after which they will proceed to California by the southern route. Four weeks will be allowed on the Pacific coast, and the departure for the East will be made early in April. The third party will start West late in March, remain four weeks on the Pacific coast, and leave for the East early in May. Members of these parties who may go out with one party and desire to return with another can do so, provided they give notice to the Tourist Agent in advance, so that accommodations may be reserved. Late in April the fourth party will go out by special train, arriving in California early in May. The party will be allowed to remain on the coast as long as it seems desirable, and return by regular trains. Special arrangements will be made by which this party will be enabled to visit the YosEMiTE Valley and the Yellowstone Park. The entire series of tours will be conducted on the same general plan as those of last season. Special trains of Pullman Vestibule Drawing-Room Sleeping, Dining, Smoking and Library, and Observa- tion Cars, constructed expressly for this service, will be used. 3+ The routes will be chosen with a particular regard to their atti'act- iveness, and the most desirable centres of interest will be selected for the stops in both directions. The rates will be made on the same liberal basis that prevailed last season, and will cover all expenses going and returning, including, also, the side trips in California. A very striking feature, and one that has proven most popular, is the freedom of action allowed the tourists after their arrival on the coast. No fixed programme restrains their liberty of movement, but, provided with excursion tickets to all the principal resorts, they may visit them as they choose, and stay as long at each as their inclination may dictate. Under this arrangement the tickets do not include any hotel cou- pons for California hotels, but tourists make their own choice in this regard and pay their own expenses. THE TOUR TO MEXICO. About February ist a party will be organized for a tour through Old Mexico. This party will travel — as the others do — by special train over the most attractive route. It will go to the City of Mexico, stopping at all the desirable places en route. Having arrived in the City of Mexico, side trips will be arranged, covering the principal cities of interest in the vicinity. This tour will cover a period of forty to fifty days, allowing several weeks for sight- seeing in Mexico. The rate, which will include every necessary expense, from departure to return, will be made on the same liberal basis as the California rates. Arrangements will also be made by which members of the Mexican party can also visit California on the return trip from Mexico. This tour will undoubtedly present the most desirable opportunity ever offered for a visit to the picturesque land of Mexico. The dates, rates, routes, and all the details concerning the entire series of tours, will be published at an early date, and in the meantime advance informa- tion will be furnished by addressing George W. Boyd, Assistant General Passenger Agent Pennsylvania Railroad, 233 South Fourth Street, Philadelphia.