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 CORNELL 
 
 UNIVERSITY 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 THE 
 WORDSWORTH COLLECTION 
 
 FOUNDED BY 
 CYNTHIA MORGAN ST. JOHN 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 VICTOR EMANUEL 
 
 OF THE CLASS OF I919 
 
 
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DESCEIPTIVE GIJIDE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 ENGLISH LAKES, 
 
 AND ADJACENT 
 
 MOUNTAINS: 
 
 ■WITH NOTICES OP THE 
 
 iSotang, iClmeraloSB, anli fficologg of tlje district. 
 
 BY JONATHAN OTLEY. 
 
 SEVENTH EDITION. 
 
 TO WHICH IS ADDED, 
 
 AN EXCURSION THROUGH LONSDALE TO THE CAVES. 
 
 KESWICK: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR: 
 
 BT SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO., STATIONERS* COURT, LONDON ; 
 
 AND ARTHUR FOSTER, KIRKBT LONSDALE. 
 
 1842. 
 
 \' 
 
 ^i 
 

 
 AM^-^'^fl 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Guides and Tours to the Lakes have been, and continue 
 to be, offered to the PubUc in various forms and sizes; 
 but chiefly devoted to a single object — the picturesque 
 appearance of the Country — to the exclusion of other 
 important considerations. 
 
 It is admitted, that the gratification of the eye is a 
 leading motive with many of those who make the Tour 
 of the Lakes; but it is not so with all. The reflecting 
 mind will feel more satisfaction in having gained some 
 knowledge of the structure, the natural history and 
 productions of the region he has visited. 
 
 As a resident among the objects he attempts to de- 
 scribe, the Author of this Manual has possessed many 
 opportunities of making observations, which would 
 escape the notice of the transient visitor — the compiler 
 from the works of others — or even of one who under- 
 took a tour for the especial purpose of making a book. 
 
 Availing himself of these advantages, and a little 
 experience in surveying, he constructed a Map of the 
 District, divested of many errors which have been copied 
 into former maps, and containing some particulars not 
 to be found in any other. This Map, which has been 
 re-engraved for this edition, with considerable improve- 
 ments, has been accompanied with such descriptions, 
 directions, and remarks, as were judged likely to be 
 serviceable to the Tourist; in conducting him through 
 the most eligible paths for viewing the varied scenery. 
 
IV 
 
 and at the same time conveying some information on 
 the structure and phenomena of these interesting regions. 
 
 The Lakes have been so often and so copiously dilated 
 upon, that a concise description of them is all that has 
 been thought necessary; but the observations upon the 
 different Mountains are extended to some length, as 
 they have been hitherto very inadequately and often 
 very inaccurately described. 
 
 The Public have so far appreciated his labours as to 
 enable him to dispose of six editions, every one of which 
 has been carefully revised, and interspersed with addi- 
 tional matter; but the original design has never been 
 departed from — to supply as much information as pos- 
 sible, without making the book either cumbrous or 
 expensive. 
 
 In some former editions has been introduced a series 
 of sketches, by the Author's own unpractised hand, of 
 the most remarkable Ranges of Mountains surrounding 
 the different Lakes, as they appear from select stations 
 on the roads, or places easy of access. This has been 
 found a more intelligible mode of communicating their 
 names than any verbal description, more easily remem- 
 bered, and to obviate the necessity of many questions, 
 often wished to be put when no one is at hand to answer. 
 In the present edition, this department has been con- 
 siderably extended, and the execution intrusted to ex- 
 perienced artists; and if the pains taken in collecting 
 and arranging these materials is equalled by the recep- 
 tion it meets with, the Author's anticipations will be 
 realized. 
 
 To this edition has been superadded an Excursion 
 through the Vale of Lune, and to the Caves of the 
 West-Riding of Yorkshire, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 The Lakes 1 
 
 Windermere 2 
 
 View from Bowness 5 
 
 View from the road between Troutbeck 
 
 Bridge and Bowness 7 
 
 Esthwaite Water 7 
 
 Grasmere Water 7 
 
 Rydal Water 8 
 
 View from Red Bank Head 9 
 
 Thirlmere 9 
 
 Coniston Water 10 
 
 View from near Bank Ground 11 
 
 Derwent Lake 11 
 
 View from Crow Park 13 
 
 Ullswater 15 
 
 View from Pooley Bridge 14 
 
 View of Patterdale from Place Fell 17 
 
 Brothers Water -- - 17 
 
 Hawes Water 18 
 
 View from Measand Beck , 19 
 
 Bassenthwaite Lake 19 
 
 Buttermere Lake 19 
 
 Crummock Lake 20 
 
 View from near Lowes Water Church 21 
 
 Lowes Water 21 
 
 Ennerdale Lake ...• 22 
 
 View from between Kirkland and Salter 23 
 
 Wast Water 24. 
 
 View from Nether Wasdale 25 
 
 The Tarns 27 
 
 Watekfalls 35 
 
 RiTERS * 40 
 
■vi contents. 
 
 Mountains 43 
 
 Skiddaw 44 
 
 Sketch of Skiddaw and Saddleback 45 
 
 Helvellyn 53 
 
 Sketch of Mountains from Helvellyn 57 
 
 Scawfell and Pikes 59 
 
 Saddleback 63 
 
 Gable— Pillar 64 
 
 Bowfell — Grasmoor — Grisedale Pike 65 
 
 Carrock Fell — Black Comb — Coniston Fell 66 
 
 Fairfield — Langdale Pikes 68 
 
 High Street— Wansfell Pike 69 
 
 Whiteless Pike 70 
 
 Loughrigg Fell 71 
 
 Bearings and Heights of Mountains 72 
 
 Crags 74 
 
 Antiquities — 
 
 Druidical Circles 75 
 
 King Arthur's Round Table — Mayburgh... 76 
 
 Barnscar — Beacons — Hardknot Castle 77 
 
 Castles 78 
 
 Furness Abbey 78 
 
 Calder Abbey — Shap Abbey 79 
 
 Explanation of Terms 80 
 
 Season FOR visiting THE Lakes 84 
 
 General Directions and Excursions — 
 
 Stages in the District 86 
 
 Carlisle to Keswick 87 
 
 Whitehaven to the Lakes 88 
 
 Lancaster 90 
 
 Lancaster to Ulverston 92 
 
 Ulverston 93 
 
 Ulverston to Furness Abbey and Coniston 94 
 
 Coniston to Ambleside 95 
 
 Milnthorp to Kendal 96 
 
 Kendal 96 
 
 Kendal to Hawes Water 97 
 
CONTENTS. Vii 
 
 General Directions and Excursions — 
 
 Kendal to Shap Wells 98 
 
 Kendal to Bowness and Ambleside 99 
 
 Bowness 99 
 
 Bowness to Esthwaite Water and Coniston 100 
 
 Low Wood Inn 101 
 
 Ambleside 102 
 
 Ambleside to Langdale 103 
 
 Ambleside to Loughrigg Fell, &c 106 
 
 Ambleside to Ullswater 107 
 
 Ambleside to Eskdale and Wasdale 108 
 
 Ambleside to Keswick 110 
 
 Penrith 113 
 
 Penrith to UUs water 113 
 
 Pooley Bridge Inn to Patterdale 113 
 
 Penrith to Hawes Water 114 
 
 Cockermouth to the Lakes 116 
 
 Keswick 116 
 
 Round Derwent Lake 122 
 
 To Borrowdale by Watendlath 124 
 
 Through Borrowdale to Buttermere 125 
 
 Drive to Scale Hill and Buttermere 129 
 
 Keswick to Wast Water and Calder Bridge ... 130 
 
 Return from Calder Bridge to Keswick 134 
 
 Drive round Bassenthwaite Lake 137 
 
 Keswick to UUswater 138 
 
 Appendix 140 
 
 Botanical Notices 142 
 
 Geology or the District 154 
 
 Meteorology 170 
 
 Floating Island in Derwent Lake 175 
 
 Black-Lead Mine in Borrowdale 179 
 
 Lonsdale and the Caves 183 
 
 Explanation or the Map viii 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE MAP. 
 
 The Boundaries of Cotjn- 1 
 TIES, where not formed by > are marked by small dots, 
 streams . . . ) 
 
 Turnpike Roads, . by strong double lines. 
 
 Other Carriage Roads, by smaller double lines. 
 
 Inferior Carriage Roads, by a line on one side. 
 
 Horse Tracks, or Bridle \ by double lines of longish 
 Roads, . . .J dots. 
 
 Foot Paths, . . by single lines of the same. 
 
 Names of Market Towns, in Roman Capitals. 
 
 Parishes and Townships, in Italic Capitals. 
 
 Mountains and Riters, in small Roman. 
 
 Churches and Chapels, are denoted by small crosses. 
 
 Country Inns and Public | ^^ ^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ 
 
 -^ ( by a few strokes on each side 
 
 Waterfalls, . . | \f the stream. 
 
LOUGHRIGG TAEN, WITH LANGDALE PIKES. 
 
 THE LAKES. 
 
 The Mountainous District in which the English 
 Lakes are situated, extends into three Counties, 
 Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire, which 
 form their junction at a point denoted by three 
 shire stones, upon the mountain Wrynose, near 
 the road side. Lancashire is separated from 
 Cumberland by the river Duddon; from Westmor- 
 land by the stream running through Little Lang- 
 dale, and by Elterwater and Windermere, until 
 south of Storrs Hall; after which the river Winster 
 forms the boundary till it enters the sands near 
 Methop. Westmorland is parted from Cumberland 
 by the mountain ridge leading over Bowfell to 
 Dunmail Raise, and from thence over the top of 
 Helvellyn; then by the stream of Glencoin to 
 Ullswater, and by the river Eamont till it enters 
 the Eden. Windermere Lake is said to belong to 
 
 B 
 
^ WINDERMERE. 
 
 Westmorland, at least its islands are claimed by 
 that county, although the whole of its western and 
 part of its eastern shores belong to Lancashire. 
 Coniston and Esthwaite Lakes, with Blelham and 
 the tarns of Coniston, are wholly in Lancashire. 
 Grasmere, Rydal, and Hawes Water, with several 
 tarns, lie in Westmorland. The head of UUswater 
 is in Westmorland, but below Glencoin it consti- 
 tutes the boundary between that county and Cum- 
 berland. Derwent, Bassenthwaite, Buttermere, 
 Ennerdale, and Wastwater, are in Cumberland. 
 
 Before this country became so much the resort 
 of strangers, the word Lake was little known to 
 the native inhabitants; but to the ancient termi- 
 nation mere. Water was usually superadded, as 
 Windermere Water, Grasmere Water. 
 
 WINDERMERE 
 
 Having given its name to the adjoining parish, 
 it has been thought necessary, in speaking of the 
 lake itself, to add the word water, or lake, by way 
 of distinction. It is the largest of the English 
 Lakes, being upwards of ten miles in length, mea- 
 sured upon the water; by the road on its banks, 
 considerably more. Its greatest breadth is about 
 a mile, and depth nearly forty fathoms. 
 
 Several promontories push into the lake from 
 each side; and between two of these, near the 
 
WITSTDERMERE. S 
 
 middle of its length, is a public ferry, on the road 
 from Kendal to Hawkshead. 
 
 The numerous islands with which it is enriched, 
 are chiefly grouped near the middle of the lake; 
 admitting ample scope for the exercise of sailing. 
 The principal, called Belle-Isle — in compliment to 
 the late Mrs. Curwen, who purchased it into the 
 family — is a beautiful plot of thirty acres, sur- 
 mounted by a stately mansion, and encircled by a 
 gravel walk of nearly two miles, which strangers, 
 in quest of the variegated surrounding scenery, are 
 freely permitted to perambulate. Besides this, 
 are Crow-Holm, two Lily of the Valley- Holms, 
 Thompson's-Holm, House-Holm, Hen-Holm, La- 
 dy-Holm, and Rough-Holm; and to the south of 
 the Ferry, Berkshire-Island, Ling-Holm, Grass- 
 Holm, Silver-Holm, and Blake-Holm. 
 
 Windermere is stocked with a variety of fish, of 
 which char are the most esteemed. Char, being 
 taken by nets in the winter months, are potted, 
 and sent to different parts of the kingdom. The 
 principal feeders of the lake are the Rothay, hav- 
 ing its source in Grasmere; and the Brathay, 
 issuino^ from Lansrdale. These two rivers unite 
 their streams about half a mile before entering the 
 lake; and a remarkable circumstance is, that the 
 trout and char, both leaving the lake about the 
 same time, to deposit their spawn, separate them- 
 selves into the two different rivers; the char 
 making choice of the Brathay, and the trout taking 
 to the Rothay. 
 
4 WINDERMERE. 
 
 This lake is situated in a country finely di- 
 versified by sloping hills, woods, and cultivated 
 grounds, with lofty mountains in the distance. Its 
 banks are adorned with buildings, which combine 
 better with the scenery of this, than they would 
 with that of the more northern lakes. 
 
 Storrs-Hall, late the mansion of Colonel Bolton, 
 is beautifully situated upon a low promontory, and 
 Rayrigg upon a bay of the lake. Calgarth-Park, 
 formerly the residence of the late Bishop of Llan- 
 daff", has a lowly, and Elleray, for some time the 
 abode of Professor Wilson, an elevated situation. 
 The villa of Mr. Redmayne, at Brathay, and that 
 of Mr. Brancker, at Croft-Lodge, are conspicuous 
 objects near the head of the water. 
 
 The Station, belonging to Mr. Curwen, is a 
 building erected upon a rocky eminence above the 
 Ferry house. The path leading to it is decorated 
 with native and exotic trees and shrubs; the upper 
 story commands extensive views of the lake and 
 surrounding scenery: and the windows, being 
 partly of stained glass, give a good representation 
 of the manner in which the landscape would be 
 afi"ected in different seasons. The view towards 
 the north has every essential for a beautiful land- 
 scape: a bold foreground, a fine sheet of water, 
 graced with islands, the large one, belonging to 
 Mr. Curwen, with its dome-topped building, being 
 a principal feature; the village of Bowness, the 
 mansions placed at various points, the rich woods, 
 and distant mountains, all contribute to enrich the 
 
to 
 
 ...High Kaise 
 
 .Ullskarth, Wythburn 
 Head 
 
 ...Stile 
 
 ...Loughrigg Fell (line 2) 
 ...[Raise Gap] 
 
 ...Gilbert Scar (line 2) 
 ...Nab Scar 
 ...Great Rigg 
 ...Fairfield 
 
 ...[Rydal Park] 
 
 ^\ J] ...Red Screes, near Kirk- 
 L. I <. 1 stnne 
 
 ...Wansfell Pike 
 
 stone 
 •••Woundale Head 
 Troutbeck Hundreds (1.2) 
 
 ...Cawdale Moor 
 
 ...Threshthwaite Mouth 
 
 ...High Street 
 
 ...Froswick 
 
 ...111 Bell 
 
 ...Yoak 
 ...Applethwaite Fell 
 
 m 
 
WINDERMERE. O 
 
 scene. The southern half of the lake is narrower; 
 hut its shores are beautifully broken and wooded. 
 Some would like to commence their survey of 
 Windermere at Newby Bridge, and observe the 
 scenery unfolding itself as they advance. Others 
 will be more gratified by the prospect bursting 
 upon them at once, in full expansion, as it does 
 from the elevated ground, on either of the roads 
 leading from Kendal towards Bowness or Amble- 
 side. All the way, from two miles south of 
 Bowness, to the head of the lake, the views are 
 excellent; and every rising ground affords some- 
 thing new in the combination. Rayrigg-Bank has 
 the most complete view of the whole lake, from 
 north to south; but a station about a mile from 
 Low Wood Inn, on the highest part of the road 
 towards Troutbeck, being more elevated, gives the 
 most distinct view of all the islands, and the spaces 
 between them. About Troutbeck Bridge, the 
 range of mountains, extending from Coniston Old 
 Man to Langdale Pikes, appears to great advan- 
 tage: the Pikes, on Scawfell, (the highest land in 
 England,) being seen on the left of Bowfell; and, 
 between it and Langdale Pikes, stand Great End 
 and Gable, as if guarding the pass at Sty-Head. 
 From some parts of the lake the summit of Hel- 
 vellyn can just be seen, beyond the fells of Gras- 
 mere and Rydal. It may also be seen from the 
 top of Brantfell, and from a rocky knoll lower 
 down ; and a peep at Skiddaw is obtained at the 
 b2 
 
6 
 
 WINDERMERE. 
 
 junction of the Cartmel and Milnthorpe roads, a 
 mile and a half south of Bowness. 
 
 A walk, or a ride, along the sequestered road 
 from the Ferry towards Ambleside, will be found 
 agreeable to the contemplative mind; and during 
 a voyage on the northern part of the lake — without 
 which no tour can be called complete — a variety of 
 both near and distant scenes are presented to the 
 view in delightful succession : the different vallies 
 being opened out to the eye of the spectator in a 
 manner unequalled from any station. As the boat 
 proceeds from the landing place at Low Wood, a 
 person, previously acquainted with the distant 
 mountains, will feel a pleasure in observing how 
 the highest Pike on Scawfell seems to march forth 
 from behind Bowfell, and the Gable from behind 
 Langdale Pikes. 
 
 Bowness is an irregularly built but very neat 
 village, on the banks of the lake ; it has two splen- 
 did inns, and one of a secondary description; and 
 there are several genteel residences in the neigh- 
 bourhood. Low Wood Inn stands sweetly at the 
 edge of the water; and Ambleside is at a convenient 
 distance for making excursions, either upon the 
 lake, or to the adjacent vallies and mountains. 
 
 At Newby Bridge, on the foot of the lake, is an 
 inn, where boats and post-horses may be had- 
 another at the Ferry, on the Lancashire side; and 
 the inns at Bowness, Low Wood, and Ambleside 
 are spacious, and furnished with every requisite 
 accommodation. 
 
m 
 
 r, 
 
 .Old Man— Coniston Fell 
 
 ...The CaiTs 
 
 ...Wetherlara 
 
 .[Wrynose Gap] 
 
 .Pike of Bliscow (line : 
 .Crinkle Crags 
 
 . Scawfell Pike 
 
 .Bowfell 
 
 .Great End 
 .Lingmoor (line 2) 
 • Hindside 
 •Great Gable 
 .Pike of Stickle 
 
 .Harrison Stickle 
 .Paveyark 
 
 .High Raise 
 .Silveihow (line 2) 
 
 .Hanamerscar (line 2) 
 
( 7 ) 
 
 ESTHWAITE WATER 
 
 Is a small placid lake, nearly two miles in length, 
 and distinguished by a fine swelling peninsula, 
 which reaches far into the water from the western 
 side. It is situated near the ancient little town of 
 Hawkshead, in a beautiful open valley, which is 
 crowned with gentle eminences, and decorated with 
 an agreeable composition of houses, fields, and trees. 
 
 On a pond called Priest Pot, near the head of 
 this lake, there is a Floating Island, 24 yards in 
 length, and 5 or 6 in breadth, supporting several 
 alder and willow trees of considerable size. Dif- 
 fering from the one in Derwent lake, which rises 
 occasionally from the bottom, this remains always 
 upon the surface, generally resting against the 
 shore ; but, when the water is high, it is sometimes 
 moved from side to side by a change of wind; and, 
 by such means, has undoubtedly been torn from 
 the bank at some remote period. 
 
 A gentleman, trolling in Esthwaite Water, seven 
 days in May last, caught the unprecedented num- 
 ber of 130 pike, averaging in weight about 2ibs. 
 
 GRASMERE LAKE 
 
 Is not large, but well formed; and placed near the 
 confines of a cultivated valley, which, with the 
 parish, takes the name of Grasmere. The island, 
 containing about four acres of verdant pasture, 
 forms a striking contrast to the massively wooded 
 islands on some of the neighbouring lakes. It 
 rises boldly from the water, in a fine swelling form ; 
 
8 
 
 RYDAL WATER. 
 
 and its smooth green surface, when spotted with 
 cattle grazing, has a beautiful appearance. Most 
 of the lakes, in order to be seen to advantage, 
 require the progress to be made from the foot 
 towards the head of the lake ; but Grasmere, being 
 completely encircled by mountains, is an exception 
 to the general rule. The view from Dunmail 
 Raise was much admired by Mr. Gray; others 
 have spoken highly of that from Townend; and 
 Mr. West chose his station on Dearbought hill, 
 at the head of Red Bank, on the opposite side. 
 In short, from whatever point the approach to 
 Grasmere is made, the prospect is always pleasing. 
 There are two good houses for the accommo- 
 dation of travellers: the Red Lion, supplying post 
 horses and jaunting cars, is near the Church; and 
 the Swan on the turnpike road. 
 
 RYDAL WATER 
 
 Is of smaller dimensions, and formed in a more 
 contracted part of the valley; it receives the river 
 flowino; from Grasmere lake after a course of about 
 half-a-mile. It is ornamented by two picturesque 
 islands, on one of which the herons build their 
 nests in the trees; and it is bordered by meadows 
 and woody grounds, surmounted on one side by 
 the precipitous rocks of Nab Scar, and on the 
 other by the steeps of Loughrigg Fell. 
 
 The fish in Grasmere and Rydal Waters are 
 pike, perch, (provincially called bass,) and eels, 
 with a few trout. 
 
.Hammer Scar 
 
 .Silver How 
 
 .Ullskarth, Wythburn 
 Head 
 
 '^ 
 
 fc:^^\^ 
 
 i 
 
 .Helm Crag (line 2) 
 
 • Stile 
 
 . Littledale Pike, Skiddaw 
 .[Raise Gap] 
 
 • Calva, in Callbeck Fells 
 .Part of Helvellyn 
 
 
 ..Seat Sandal 
 
 ...[Grisedale Hause (1.2)] 
 
 ...Great Rigg, Fairfield 
 ..."Green-head Ghyll" 
 
 Words. 
 
 
 .?/ 
 
 y 
 
 ...Forest Side Fell 
 
 mi 
 
 .Scandale Fell 
 .[Rydal Park (line 2)] 
 
 .Yoak, near Kentmere 
 
 .Loughrigg Fell 
 
( 9 ) 
 THIRLMERE 
 
 — Commonly called Leathes' Water, from the 
 family to whose estate it belongs, and sometimes 
 Wythburn Water, from the valley in which it is 
 partly situated — lies at the foot of the "mighty 
 Helvellyn;" upon the highest level of any of the 
 lakes, being nearly 500 feet above the sea; it is 
 upwards of two miles and a-half in length, and 
 intersected by several rocky promontories; it is 
 divided into an upper and lower lake, between 
 which a picturesque wooden bridge leads to Arm- 
 both House. The depth of this lake, which has 
 been reported to be very great, has not been found 
 to exceed eighteen fathoms. A wooded island, of 
 half an acre, lies near the shore, on the lower or 
 northern part of the lake; and the surface of the 
 water being of late somewhat lowered by opening 
 its outlet, a small rock in the upper part has be- 
 come more conspicuous. 
 
 Travellers are commonly satisfied with a sight 
 of this lake from the road; but those who have 
 leisure may obtain better views of the lower and 
 fin@r part of the lake, from different stations in the 
 grounds near Dalehead House ; and the upper part 
 of the lake, with its mountains, is best seen by those 
 who turn off near the fourth mile stone, and travel 
 the western side of the water. But the most 
 perfect view of the whole lake is from a rocky 
 eminence at a little distance from its northern end. 
 
( 10 ) 
 
 CONISTON WATER, 
 
 Called in some old books Thurston Water, is a 
 lake of considerable magnitude, being six miles 
 in length; but wanting in that agreeable flexure 
 of shores so conducive to the beauty of a lake. 
 Near its foot, however, are some finely wooded, 
 rocky promontories; which, from certain points, 
 add greatly to the prospect. It has two small 
 islands, but they are placed too near the shore to 
 contribute much to its importance. 
 
 As the principal mountains lie on the western 
 side and at its head, the best views are in conse- 
 quence obtained in a progress from its foot, on the 
 eastern side, or from a boat on its surface; but 
 those who have leisure may be gratified by the va- 
 riety afforded in an excursion quite round the lake. 
 
 Its greatest depth is twenty-seven fathoms. It 
 is well supplied with trout and char; the latter are 
 said to be better here than in any other lake; they 
 are taken by nets in winter, and it was formerly 
 supposed they could not be tempted by any kind 
 of bait; however, they are sometimes taken by 
 angling, with a hook baited in a peculiar manner 
 with a minnow. 
 
 The inn, at Waterhead, is pleasantly situated on 
 the margin of the lake, and furnishes parties with 
 pleasure boats, a chaise, and pair of post horses. 
 
 Waterhead House, the property and occasional 
 residence of James Marshall, Esq., stands ide- 
 lightfully on a rising ground a short distance ffom 
 the inn. 
 
...Walney Scar 
 ...Brown Pike 
 
 \ ...Old Man 
 
 .Wetherlam 
 .Great Oukrigg 
 
 ..Prism 
 
 ..Tilberthwaite Fell 
 ..Yewdale Crags 
 
 ..Yewdale 
 
 ..Raven Crag 
 ...Holm Fell 
 
 ,..Oxeii Fell 
 
( 11 ) 
 
 DERWENT LAKE, 
 
 Near Keswick, is of the most agreeable proportions. 
 In breadth, it exceeds any of the neighbouring 
 lakes, being nearly a mile and a half; although its 
 whole length is little more than three miles. Lakes 
 of greater length generally extend too far from that 
 mountain scenery, which is so conducive to their 
 importance; but Derwent lake appears wholly sur- 
 rounded; and visitors are at a loss which to admire 
 most, the broken rocky mountains of Borrowdale 
 on the one hand, or the smooth flowing lines of 
 Newlands on the other; while the majestic Skiddaw 
 closes up the view to the north. 
 
 The islands are of a more proportionate size, 
 and disposed at better distances, than those in any 
 of the neighbouring lakes. The largest, called 
 Lord's Isle, contains about six acres and a half, 
 and is covered with stately trees, forming a fine 
 rookery. It is situated near the shore, on which 
 account, probably, it was selected for the residence 
 of the family of Derwentwater ; but the house has 
 long been in ruins, and nothing now remains but 
 the foundation. This, and the smaller island called 
 Rampsholm, form part of the late Earl of Der- 
 wentwater's sequestrated estate, which was pur- 
 chased from Greenwich Hospital, in 1832, by the 
 late John Marshall, jun., Esq., of Leeds. 
 
 The Vicar's Isle, the residence of James Henry, 
 Esq., contains about six acres, beautifully laid out 
 in pleasure grounds, interspersed with a variety of 
 
12 
 
 DERWENT LAKE. 
 
 trees, and crowned with a house in the centre. 
 For some years it was called Pocklington's Island, 
 while it belonged to a gentleman of that name; 
 and is now, by way of pre-eminence, styled Der- 
 went Isle. 
 
 One, nearer the middle of the lake, is called St. 
 Herbert's Isle, from being the residence of that 
 holy man, who, according to the Venerable Bede, 
 was contemporary with St. Cuthbert, and died 
 about A. D. 687. It appears that several centuries 
 afterwards, the anniversary of his death was, by 
 the Bishop of the diocese, enjoined to be celebrated 
 upon this spot in religious offices. Some remains 
 of what is said to have been his cell are still to be 
 seen among the trees with which the island is 
 covered. About 1798, a small grotto or fishing 
 cot was built by the late Sir Wilfred Lawson, of 
 Brayton House, to whose successor the island now 
 belongs. 
 
 There are other small islets; as Otter Isle, 
 situated in a bay near the head of the lake, the 
 views from which have been much admired; a 
 piece of rock called Tripetholm, and two others 
 known by the name of Lingholms. 
 
 Besides these permanent islands, an occasional 
 one is sometimes observed, called the Floating 
 Island: being a piece of earth, which, at uncertain 
 intervals of time, rises from the bottom to the sur- 
 face of the lake; but still adhering by its sides to 
 the adjacent earth, is never removed from its 
 place. Within the last thirty-five years, it has 
 
.Brand Fell (line 2) 
 . Glaramara 
 
 .Castle Crag (line 3) 
 .[Esk Hause] 
 .Great End 
 
 .Scawfell Vike 
 .Gate Cras 
 
 .Blea Crag 
 .Bull Crag 
 
 .Cat Bell 
 . Hindscarth 
 
 .Slielgill Bank 
 
 . Robinson 
 .High Stile 
 
 .Vale of Newlands (1. 3) 
 . Red Pike 
 
 ■Rawling End 
 
 .Causey Pike 
 
 •Sail 
 .111 Crags 
 
 .Barrow 
 .Swinside (line 2) 
 
 • Grisedale Pike 
 
DERWENT LAKE. 13 
 
 emerged twelve times; remaining upon the surface 
 for longer or shorter periods. In a succeeding 
 part of this work the discussion of this subject will 
 be resumed at greater length. 
 
 The lands bordering the lake belong principally 
 to three wealthy proprietors. The heirs of the late 
 Mr. Marshall hold the Derwentwater estate on 
 the east; Major-General Sir John Woodford, the 
 late Lord William Gordon's estate on the west; 
 and Mr. Standish, late Stephenson, chiefly the 
 south. Mr. Pocklington's estate at Barrow also 
 adjoins the lake, and his house boldly overlooks 
 it. The neat cottage of Sir John Woodford is 
 secreted by lofty woods, on the edge of a placid 
 bay, on the western side of the lake. 
 
 Derwent Lake lies 228 feet above the level of 
 the sea; its depth does not in any part exceed four- 
 teen fathoms: a great portion of it scarcely one 
 fourth of that measure. It is supplied chiefly from 
 Borrowdale, and forms a reservoir for the water, 
 which, in heavy rains, pours down the steep moun- 
 tains on every side; by which means its surface is 
 often raised six or seven feet; and, in an extraor- 
 dinary case, has been known to rise a perpendicular 
 height of eight feet, above its lowest water mark. 
 At such times the meadows are overflowed, all the 
 way between this lake and Bassenthwaite. Its sur- 
 face being large in proportion to its depth, causes it 
 to be sooner cooled down to the freezing point; and 
 it frequently affords a fine field for the skaiter. In 
 January, 1814, the ice attained the thickness of 
 c 
 
14 
 
 DERWENT LAKE. 
 
 ten inches; and once or twice since that time it has 
 nearly reached the same dimensions. 
 
 The fishery and right of navigation on the east 
 side belongs to the Derwentwater estate; on the 
 west, to the Earl of Egremont ; and on the south, 
 to the freeholders of Borrowdale. The fish are 
 trout, pike, perch, and eels. The trout, which are 
 very good, are taken by angling, in the months of 
 April and May; the pike and perch, during the 
 whole summer. 
 
 It would be superfluous to enter into a descrip- 
 tion or enumeration of the different views on this 
 lake: many attempts have been made to describe 
 them — but they must be seen to be duly appre- 
 ciated. 
 
 Parties navigating the lake may be landed to 
 view the cascades at Barrow and Lowdore : at the 
 latter place is a public-house, where a cannon is 
 kept for the echo, which on a favourable opportu- 
 nity is very fine; the sound being reverberated 
 from the rocks encompassing the valley, at inter- 
 vals proportioned to their respective distances. 
 
 To such as have not another opportunity of 
 viewing the scenery of Borrowdale, it may be re- 
 commended to leave the boat at Lowdore, and to 
 walk forward to Bowder Stone, a distance of two 
 miles; where is a good prospect of the upper part 
 of Borrowdale, with Castle Crag on the right. 
 Eagle Crag on the left, and Great End Crag in 
 the distance. The village of Rosthwaite, sheltered 
 by rising hills and stately trees, on the verge of 
 green meadows, filling up the middle space. 
 
...Barton Fell 
 
 ...Swarth Fell 
 ...Stile End 
 
 ...Winter Crag 
 
 ...[Martindale Hause] 
 ...Hartsop Fells 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
 
 .Hallen Fell (line 2) 
 .Place Fell 
 .Stone Cross Pike 
 .Birk Fell 
 
 ■Dolly Waggon Pike 
 
 .Nether Cove Head 
 
 .Helvellyn High Man 
 •Catchety Cam (line 2) 
 .Helvellyn Low Man 
 .Herring Pike (line 3) 
 
 . Keppel Cove Head 
 .Raise 
 
 .[Greenside] 
 .Gowbarrov? 
 
( ^5 ) 
 
 ULLSWATER 
 
 Ranks second in point of size, being nine miles 
 long, but rather wanting in breadth : 'yet, on ac- 
 count of its winding form, the disproportion is not 
 so much observed. It has the greatest average 
 depth of any of the lakes, being in many places 
 from 20 to 35 fathoms. The country about its 
 foot is rather tame; but its head is situated among 
 some of the most majestic mountains, which are 
 intersected by several glens or small vallies ; and 
 their sides embellished with a variety of native 
 wood and rock scenery. 
 
 Three rocky islets ornament the upper reach 
 of the lake; they are called Cherry-Holm, Wall- 
 Holm, and House-Holm; the last of which is a 
 fine station for viewing the surrounding country. 
 
 This lake abounds with trout, which are some- 
 times caught of very large size : char are like- 
 wise found, but not of the best quality. Large 
 shoals of a peculiar kind of fish are met with, 
 called here the skelly ; and great quantities of eels 
 are taken in the river Eamont, below Pooley 
 Bridge, as they migrate from the lake in autumn. 
 The foot of the lake seems to be embanked by a 
 conglomerated mass of pebbles ; the same compo- 
 sition forms the finely wooded hill called Dun- 
 mallet, which stands like a centinel to guard the 
 pass. The "mighty Helvellyn," flanked right 
 and left by subordinate mountains, is seen in the 
 most favourable point of view from Pooley Bridge. 
 
16 
 
 ULLSWATEK. 
 
 The borders of the lake are ornamented with se- 
 veral handsome villas. Ewesmere hill commands 
 delightful prospects up the lake; Colonel Salmond's 
 beautiful residence at Waterfoot, retires from the 
 view; on the borders of the lake are those of 
 Rampsbeck Beau- Thorn, Lemon-House, and Old- 
 Church ; at a little distance Watermillock; and at 
 Hallsteads, on a fine promontory with undulating 
 grounds, John Marshall, Esq., has an elegant 
 house. Lyulph's Tower is a hunting box, built 
 by the late Duke of Norfolk in his deer park; and 
 Airey Force may be seen by application to the 
 keeper who resides here. Glencoin is a farm 
 placed in a sweet recess, where a brook divides 
 the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland. 
 At the foot of Glenridding, the Rev. H. Askew 
 has a tasteful cottage; and towards the foot of 
 Grisedale, the seat of W. Marshall, Esq., stands 
 upon the site of the ancient Patterdale Hall. 
 
 The only carriage road lies on the north-west 
 side of the water, sometimes on a level with its 
 surface, and commanding an unobstructed view; 
 at other times deeply shaded in ancient woods, 
 permitting only occasional glimpses of the lake; 
 but on the opposite side the pedestrian will be well 
 repaid for a ramble along Placefell and Birkfell. 
 From the slate quarry there is a grand view of the 
 mountains, just including the highest point of Hel- 
 vellyn; and from many parts of the path, and above 
 it, the views are truly picturesque and beautiful. 
 
 If the tourist aspires to more extensive pros- 
 

 I— I 
 
 .Cawdale Moor 
 .Hartsop Dod 
 
 .[Kirkstone Pass] 
 .Red Screes 
 
 .[Deepdale Park] 
 
 ...Birks 
 
 .Dolly Waggon Pik« 
 . [Grisedale] 
 .Eagle Crag 
 
 .Bfeaberry Cra^ 
 .Helvellyn Pile 
 
 .Hall Bank (line 2) 
 
 .[Raise] 
 
 . [Glenridding] 
 
 . Greenside 
 
 .Herring Pike 
 ..Glenridding Dod (1. 2) 
 
BROTHERS WATER. 17 
 
 spects, they may be attained by climbing the 
 mountain to a certain height ; where the lower 
 extremity of the lake may be seen over the beauti- 
 ful grounds of Hallsteads. 
 
 This lake, like others, is most advantageously 
 seen by commencing at its foot ; so that, whether 
 by the road, or in a boat, the grandeur of the 
 scenery is continually increasing as the traveller 
 approaches the mountains; but the views from the 
 lake are more open, and the water itself appears 
 more spacious, from the boat on its surface, than 
 from any elevation above it. 
 
 There is a comfortable inn at Pooley Bridge, 
 on the foot of the lake ; and another at Patterdale, 
 a little distance from its head. They both furnish 
 boats upon the lake : and the long wanted medium 
 of land conveyance is now supplied, by horses and 
 post chaise being furnished both at Pooley Bridge 
 and Patterdale. 
 
 BROTHERS WATER, 
 
 — So called from the circumstance of two brothers 
 having been drowned together, by the breaking of 
 the ice — is a small lake, situate in that part of 
 Patterdale called Hartshop, on the road leading 
 to and from Ambleside. In the latter direction, 
 descending from the steeps of Kirkstone, its first 
 appearance is always greeted with pleasure by the 
 tourist in search of the picturesque; who considers 
 it the commencement of a new series of beauties. 
 c2 
 
( 18 ) 
 HA WES WATER 
 
 Is nearly three miles in length, and half a mile in 
 breadth; it is almost divided into two parts by the 
 projection of a plot of cultivated land from the 
 N. W. side. Its head is encompassed by lofty 
 mountains, but they exhibit less variety of outline 
 than those of Derwent and UUswater. Its eastern 
 side is bounded by Naddle Forest, the lower part 
 completely wooded, and surmounted by the lofty 
 Wallow Crag ; beyond which the hill side is scat- 
 tered with aged thorns. The western side has 
 more cultivation, and a few farm houses sheltered 
 by trees. The houses, with the exception of Mr. 
 Boustead's, at Measand-beck, and Mr. Holmes', 
 at Chapel hill, are mostly walled without mortar ; 
 and the deciduous trees associate well with the rest 
 of the scenery. Opposite the head of the lake, 
 Castle Crag is a prominent feature in the landscape. 
 
 This lake is well stocked with fish of various 
 kinds ; but they are chiefly preserved for the table 
 of Lowther Castle. 
 
 Lying beyond the usual circuit of the lakes, and 
 at a distance from the great roads and places of 
 entertainment, Hawes Water is often omitted. 
 But tourists, who can contrive to visit it without 
 hurry or fatigue, will find it a sweet retired spot. 
 
 There is a public house at Mardale Green, about 
 a mile above the head of the lake; and a spacious 
 inn, with one of smaller dimensions, at Bampton 
 Grange, a distance of two miles from its foot. 
 
M 
 >- 
 
 
 >- 
 
 
 ...Wallow Crag 
 
 . Naddle Forett 
 
 (the lower pai t, which 
 stretches into the lake, 
 is called Gurries.) 
 
 .Harter Fell 
 
 .Riggindale (line 2) 
 .Bleak-How Crag (1. 4) 
 .Castle Crag (line 3) 
 . Elrk Crag (line 3) 
 .High Street 
 
 . Whelter Crag (line 2) 
 
 . Kidsey Pike 
 
 .Lad Crag 
 . Measand End 
 
 . Knotts 
 •Blenneihasset 
 
 , [Fordendale] 
 .[Birker Gill J 
 
( 19 ) 
 
 BASSENTHWAITE LAKE 
 
 Is of somewhat greater length than Derwent, but 
 of less breadth, and without islands. Being fur- 
 ther from the mountains, it is not viewed with the 
 same interest as some other lakes. Its western 
 side is rather too uniformly wooded, the eastern 
 has a greater breadth of cultivation, on which side 
 are some fine bays and promontories; but here 
 the road recedes too far from the lake to exhibit 
 it to advantage. However, tourists who have 
 leisure for a ride or a drive of eighteen miles, 
 round this lake, may obtain some pleasing views ; 
 especially from the foot of the lake, and from some 
 points of Wythop woods. This lake is of less 
 depth than Derwent. Pike and perch are the 
 principal fish : salmon pass through it, to deposit 
 their spawn in the rivers Derwent and Greta, but 
 are seldom met with in the lake. 
 
 BUTTERMERE LAKE, 
 
 Situate in the valley of that name, is nearly en- 
 compassed by superb rocky mountains. It is about 
 a mile and a quarter in length, scarcely half a mile 
 in breadth, and fifteen fathoms deep. 
 
 Tourists visiting Buttermere, by way of Bor- 
 rowdale, pass along the side of this lake; those 
 who travel in carriages generally content them- 
 selves with the view of it from a hill near the 
 village. 
 
( 20 ) 
 
 CRUMMOCK LAKE 
 
 Is nearly three miles in length, three quarters of 
 a mile in breadth, and twenty-two fathoms deep. 
 It is situated between the two lofty and pre- 
 cipitous mountains of Grasmoor, on the eastern, 
 and Melbreak, on the western side ; and, in com- 
 bination with the more distant hills, it makes a 
 beautiful picture. The best general views of the 
 lake are from the rocky point on the eastern side, 
 called the Hause; and from the road between Scale 
 Hill and Lowes Water : and the views of the moun- 
 tains, from the bosom of the lake, are excellent. 
 On one side stands Grasmoor, with its lofty pre- 
 cipitous front; on the other, Melbreak rises ab- 
 ruptly from the water's edge; Whiteless Pike, 
 Robinson, Rannerdale Knot, Fleetworth Pike, 
 Honister Crag, Red Pike, High Stile, and the 
 Haystacks, surmounted by Great Gable, all con- 
 tribute to the magnificence of the scene. 
 
 The distance between Crummock and Buttermere 
 Lakes is short of a mile, of excellent arable land. 
 
 Both these lakes are well stocked with trout and 
 char, the latter of which are smaller in size, but 
 perhaps not inferior in quality, to those of Win- 
 dermere or Coniston. There is a comfortable inn 
 at Buttermere, between the two lakes, and another 
 at Scale Hill, on the foot of Crummock; at one of 
 which places a boat is usually taken, as well for a 
 survey of the scenery, as being the most conve- 
 nient way of seeing the noted waterfall of Scale 
 Force, on the opposite side of the lake. 
 
... Wifeless Pike 
 
 . .FleetworthPilie 
 
 ...Rannerdale 
 
 Knot 
 ...Great Gavel 
 •■•HayStacks(1.2) 
 
( 21 ; 
 
 LOWES WATER, 
 
 A small lake of about a mile in length, has given 
 name to the parochial chapelry in which it is situ- 
 ated. Shaping its course towards Crummock, its 
 direction is contrary to that of the neighbouring 
 lakes, from which it differs also, in another point: 
 they generally exhibit the most interesting moun- 
 tain scenery in looking towards the head of the 
 lake ; this, on the contrary, is more tame towards 
 its head, while at its foot the mountains appear of 
 bolder forms. It is not the difference between one 
 sheet of water and another yi^but the endless variety 
 of scenery with which they are associated, that 
 gives to every lake its peculiar character. Lowes 
 Water, viewed from the end of Melbreak, exhibits 
 a sweet rural landscape, the cultivated slopes being 
 ornamented with neat farm-houses &nd trees : but, 
 taking the view in an opposite direction, the lake 
 makes a middle distance to a combination of moun- 
 tains scarcely to be equalled. 
 
 Parties who visit Lowes Water from Scale Hill, 
 generally content themselves with a view from the 
 place of its first presentation ; but those who ap- 
 proach it from the west, have the advantage of 
 beholding it in connection with a most magnificent 
 assemblage of mountains. On the left, Grasmoor, 
 Whiteless Pike, Robinson, and Rannerdale Knot* 
 on the right, Burnbank and Carling Knot; in front, 
 Melbreak rises in an aspiring cone, flanked by High 
 Stile and Red Pike on one hand, and the perpen- 
 dicular-fronted Honister Crag on the other. 
 
( 22 ) 
 
 ENNERDALE LAKE 
 
 Is about two miles and a half in length, and three 
 quarters of a mile in breadth. It is more difficult 
 to obtain a good sight of this than of any other 
 lake. The best general view may be had near 
 How Hall ; but as the principal mountain scenery, 
 with part of the lake, is seen to advantage from 
 the road by which tourists generally pass from 
 Wast Water to Lowes Water and Buttermere, few 
 like to extend their journey two or three miles for 
 any improvement to be made in the prospect. Pe- 
 destrians, anxious to explore the inmost recesses 
 of the mountains, may follow the lake to its head, 
 and after passing the sequestered farm of Giller- 
 thwaite, continue their route four or five miles 
 along the narrow dale, by the transparent stream 
 of the Lisa, which is fed by the crystal springs 
 issuing from the side of the mountain ; and either 
 turn to the left, by the pass called Scarf Gap, to 
 Buttermere ; or to the right, over the Black Sail, 
 to Wasdale Head. This way a horse might be 
 taken, but it would be found more troublesome 
 than useful. 
 
 This lake is well stocked with trout: here is also 
 an inferior kind of char, which enter the river in 
 autumn to deposit their spawn; contrary to the 
 habits of those in the lakes of Buttermere and 
 Crummock. 
 
 There are two small public-houses at Ennerdale 
 Bridge ; but not calculated to afford much accom- 
 modation to travellers. 
 
.Starling Dod 
 .Red Pike 
 
 .High Crag 
 
 .Bowness Knot (line 3) 
 
 Latterbarrow (line 2) 
 
 .Anelebarrow (line 3) 
 .Wind Yate 
 
 .Black Crag 
 
 ■Steeple 
 .Hay Cock 
 
( 23 ) 
 
 WAST WATER 
 
 Is a lake full three miles in length, and more 
 than half a mile in breadth. It has been recently 
 sounded to the depth of 4.5 fathoms ; hut we have 
 been told of a particular spot, where a line of 
 double the length did not reach the bottom: which 
 must at any rate be several fathoms below the level 
 of the sea. It is probably owing to its great 
 depth, in proportion to the extent of surface, that 
 it has never been known to freeze; the duration of 
 winter not being sufficient to cool the whole mass 
 of water to that temperature which permits ice to 
 be formed upon its surface. 
 
 The fish of Wast Water are chiefly trout, with 
 which it is well stored: it also contains a few char. 
 Boats are kept by neighbouring gentlemen for the 
 diversion of angling; and the appearance of the 
 Screes from the lake is magnificent. At Nether 
 Wasdale, about a mile and a half from the foot of 
 the lake, there are two public houses where tra- 
 vellers may have refreshment for themselves and 
 horses: there is no other between this and Ros- 
 thwaite in Borrowdale, a distance of fourteen 
 miles, one third of which is very difficult mountain, 
 road. 
 
 Wasdale Head consists of about half a dozen 
 dwellings sheltered by trees, and a small Chapel, 
 in the midst of an area of arable land, encircled 
 by the loftiest mountains. A public house here is 
 much wanted; the kind hospitality of the inhabi- 
 
24 
 
 WAST WATER. 
 
 tants being not unfrequently drawn upon by stran- 
 gers; but it is expected that a license to entertain 
 travellers will shortly be obtained by one of the 
 householders. Bowderdale has a single farm- 
 house, in a lateral valley opening near the mid- 
 dle of the lake. At Crook Head, near the foot 
 of the lake, Stansfield Rawson, Esq., of Halifax, 
 has a neat Gothic summer residence, called Was- 
 dale Hall. 
 
 The mountains environing Wast Water are lofty 
 and majestic. A shivery mountain side, called the 
 Screes, bounds the lake on the south-east, extend- 
 ing quite into the water; so that it cannot be 
 passed on that side, even by a pedestrian, without 
 considerable difficulty, and some danger. From 
 some points of view, Yewbarrow forms a fine 
 apex, while Kirkfell retires behind it; at the head 
 of the dale the pyramidical Gable appears con- 
 spicuous; Lingmell comes boldly forward on the 
 right, over which Scawfell and the Pikes reign 
 pre-eminent; the Hay Cock may be seen through 
 the lateral vale of Bowderdale, and the Pillar crowns 
 the head of the branch called Mosedale : Middle- 
 fell, running along the margin of the lake on the 
 spectator's side, and the Screes on the opposite, 
 complete the panorama. In short. Wast Water 
 affords many peculiarities well worth visiting once, 
 but scarcely sufficient to yield that increased de- 
 gree of pleasure in a second and third inspection, 
 which would be experienced on Derwent, Ulls- 
 water, or Windermere. 
 
...Buckbarrow Pike 
 
 CD 
 1-3 
 
 >- 
 
 I — I 
 CO 
 CD 
 
 
 ^"^ 
 
 ...Middlefell 
 
 ...Yewbarrow 
 •••Great Gable 
 
 ...Sty Head Pass 
 
 ...Lingmell 
 •••Great- end Cra? 
 
 ...Scawfell Pike 
 ...Scawfell 
 
 ^ V 
 
( 27 ) 
 
 THE TARNS. 
 
 There are numerous other receptacles of still 
 water, which, being too small to merit the appella- 
 tion of lakes, are called Tarns. When placed 
 in a principal valley, (which however is not often 
 the case,) they contribute little to its importance; 
 and being in such situations often environed with 
 swampy ground, seem to represent the feeble re- 
 mains of a once more considerable lake. But in a 
 circular recess on the side of a vale, or on a moun- 
 tain, as they are generally placed, their margins 
 being well defined, they become more interesting. 
 Reposing frequently at the foot of lofty precipices, 
 and sometimes appearing as if embanked by a col- 
 lection of materials excavated from the basin which 
 they occupy, they afford ample room for conjecture 
 as to the mode of their formation. Being shel- 
 tered from the winds, their surface often exhibits 
 the finest reflections of the rocks and surrounding 
 scenery, highly pleasing to the eye of such as view 
 them with regard to the picturesque; but it is more 
 agreeable to the wishes of the angler, to see their 
 surface ruffled by the breeze. 
 
 Tarns in the tributary streams of 
 Winderinere. 
 
 Elterwater is one of the largest of the Tarns; 
 and having given its name to a small hamlet in 
 Langdale, it became necessary, in speaking of the 
 
28 
 
 TARNS. 
 
 water itself, to add the word tarn by way of dis- 
 tinction. It is nearly a mile in length, and divided 
 into three parts. By the sudden influx of water 
 from the two Langdales, the low meadows on its 
 margin are frequently overflowed, and rendered 
 wet and swampy. To obviate this, great pains 
 have lately been taken in opening its outlet; by 
 which means the dimensions of the water have 
 been greatly contracted; and the fishery of trout 
 has been nearly annihilated by the introduction of 
 
 that voracious fish, the pike. Loughrigg Tarn 
 
 is a circular piece of water of about twenty acres, 
 environed by green meadows, intermixed with 
 rocky woods and cultivated grounds. Its glassy 
 surface displays beautiful reflections of the farm- 
 houses, fields, and trees, surmounted by rocky 
 steeps; and when taken in combination with Lang- 
 dale Pikes in the distance, it makes an excellent 
 
 picture. Little Langdale Tarn, in the valley 
 
 of that name, is one whose consequence is less- 
 ened by the swampiness of its shores. -Blea 
 
 Tarn, lying on the high ground between the two 
 vales of Great and Little Langdale, has a small 
 sequestered farm adjoining, which is called by its 
 name. A view of this piece of water is enriched 
 
 by the superb appearance of Langdale Pikes. 
 
 Stickle Tarn, at the foot of Pavey-ark, a huge 
 rock in connection with Langdale Pikes, is famous 
 for the quality of its trout. Its dimensions have 
 been greatly enlarged by its adaption as a reservoir 
 for the gunpowder mills at Elterwater. The stream 
 
TARNS. 29 
 
 falling into Langdale, at Millbeck, in a foaming 
 
 cataract, may be seen at a distance. Codale 
 
 Tarn is a small piece of water, containing a few 
 trout, perch, and eels. It sends a small stream 
 down a rocky channel into Easdale Tarn, which is 
 one of the largest mountain tarns, seated in the 
 western branch of Grasmere vale, among rocky 
 precipices, of which Blakerigg, or Blea Crag, is 
 the principal. Its stream is, from its frothy white- 
 ness, called Sourmilk Gill, and, when well supplied 
 with water, is a striking object from the road. 
 
 Tarns in the environs of UUswater. 
 
 Ayes Water is of more extended dimensions 
 than most of those called tarns; and is much fre- 
 quented by anglers. The stream from it passes 
 Low Hartshop, joining that from Brothers Water 
 
 near the foot of the latter. Angle Tarn, lying 
 
 north of the last, upon the mountain separating 
 Patterdale from Martindale, is one of the smaller 
 class; but of a curious shape, having two rocky 
 islets, and a small broken peninsula. Its stream, 
 in a quick descent, reaches the vale about half a 
 
 mile further down. Grisedale Tarn, one of the 
 
 larger class, lies in the junction of the three moun- 
 tains, Helvellyn, Seatsandal,* and Fairfield. The 
 
 * The rain water falling upon Seatsandal, runs into Winder- 
 mere, UUswater, and Derwent; entering the sea by the river 
 Leven into Morecambe Bay ; by the Eden into the Solway Frith ; 
 and by the Derwent into the Irish Sea. 
 
 d2 
 
*aU TABNS, 
 
 road over the Hause, from Grasmere to Patter- 
 dale, passing the tarn, is accompanied by its stream 
 down the vale of Grisedale, which unites with the 
 
 parent valley near the Church. Red Tarn, 
 
 also of considerable extent, containing upwards of 
 twenty acres, is upon the highest level of any of 
 the mountain tarns; being upwards of two thou- 
 sand three hundred feet above the level of the sea, 
 and about seven hundred feet below the summit of 
 Helvellyn; from whence into it you might almost 
 
 cast a stone. Keppel Cove Tarn is posited in 
 
 a singular manner, not in the bottom of the glen, 
 but in a kind of recess formed on one side; it is 
 separated from Red Tarn by a narrow mountain 
 ridge called Swirrel Edge, which branches off 
 from Helvellyn and is terminated by a peak called 
 Catsty Cam, modernized into Catchedecam; below 
 which the two streams unite to form the brook of 
 Glenridding. All these tarns afford good diver- 
 sion for the angler: Keppel Cove produces a 
 bright, well shapen trout; those of Angle Tarn 
 are by some considered of superior flavour; but 
 vrhen quantity as well as quality is taken into ac- 
 count, Ayes Water may perhaps be allowed the 
 pre-eminence. 
 
 Tarns connected with Hawes Water ^ 
 
 Small Water, rightly named, lies between Harter 
 fell and High Street; and is passed by a mountain 
 track leading from Kentmere to Mardale, over t^ 
 
TARNS. SI 
 
 hause called Nan Bield. Blea Water, separated 
 
 from the last by a projection of High Street, lies 
 at the foot of a lofty rock called Blea Water Crag. 
 Before reaching the valley, their two streams be- 
 come united, and passing Mardale Green, it makes 
 the principal feeder of Hawes Water. 
 
 Tarns in the Feeders of Conision Water. 
 
 Two or three pools, between the hills on the 
 north of Coniston Waterhead, are called simply 
 the Tarns; while those in the western quarter have 
 received the more dignified appellation of Waters. 
 
 Levers Water, the largest, is situated in a 
 
 wide valley, between the mountains Old Man and 
 
 Wetherlam. Low Water, placed on the Old 
 
 Man's side, belies its name, as it occupies the 
 highest level. Their united streams, after a suc- 
 cession of pretty waterfalls, pass Coniston Church, 
 
 in their way to the lake. Gates Water [Goat's 
 
 Water,] reposes between the Old Man's western 
 side, and the foot of the precipitous Dow Crag, 
 [Dove Crag.] Besides being, in common with the 
 other tarns, stocked with trout, it also contains 
 some char. Its stream forms the Rivulet of Tor- 
 
 ver. Blind Tarn is a small reservoir of water 
 
 without a stream. Beacon Tarn, a small one, 
 
 near the foot of the lake. 
 
 Seathwaite Tarn empties itself into the ri^er 
 Duddon ; it is separated from Levers Water, ojaly 
 by a narrow mountain ridge. 
 
32 
 
 TARNS. 
 
 In the rise of the river Kent, the mere, or tarn, 
 giving to the valley in which it was situated the 
 name of Kentmere, has been recently annihilated 
 in the progress of agricultural improvement. 
 Skeggles Water, on the heath clad mountain be- 
 tween that and Longsleddale, is small and unin- 
 teresting. 
 
 Tarns tributary to Derioent Lake. 
 
 A second Blea Tarn, containing excellent trout, 
 is situated on the heathy mountain between Wyth- 
 burn and Borrowdale. After a course of nearly 
 two miles, the water is received by Watendlath* 
 Tarn, which covers about a dozen acres; but 
 nearly destitute of fish of any kind: the trout, for 
 which it was once famous, have been destroyed by 
 the introduction of their enemies, the pike; yet, 
 on account of its romantic scenery, the valley of 
 Watendlath is still worthy of being visited. It is 
 the stream from these tarns which, after running 
 two miles further, along a narrow valley, forms 
 
 the famed cataract of Lowdore. Angle Tarn, 
 
 stocked only with a few perch, lies on the north of 
 Bowfell, in the head of the stream falling into the 
 
 * A specimen of the diversity of local orthography: — 
 Watendlath— Donaldi, 1774. 
 WattendletJi— Clarke, 1789. 
 Watanlath — West, 1 796. 
 
 Watenlath — Hist. Cumb. 1794. Wordsworth, Green, Parson 
 and White, Gilpin, Housman. 
 Watendleth—Ware, 1808. 
 Watinlath — Alison, 1835. Wilkinson. 
 
TARNS. - ^S 
 
 branch of Borrowdale, called Langstreth. At the 
 foot of Eagle Crag, this is joined by another 
 stream, from the branch of Greenup; and after 
 passing Stonethwaite and Rosthwaite, joins the 
 Seathwaite branch a little further down the vale. 
 
 ■ Sprinkling Tarn, of irregular shape, reposes 
 
 under Great End Crag: it abounds with excellent 
 trout; but they are too well fed, or too wary, to 
 
 be easily tempted by the bait of the angler. 
 
 Sty-head Tarn, in some maps called Sparkling 
 Tarn, lies about three quarters of a mile below the 
 last, near the road to Wasdale. The water, which 
 it receives from Sprinkling Tarn, seems to have 
 been deprived of its nutritive qualities; as its fish 
 are of a very inferior kind. The stream, running 
 from thence towards Seathwaite, has some fine 
 frothy breaks, and one grand waterfall, before it 
 
 reaches the bottom of the vale. Dock Tarn 
 
 and Tarn of Leaves, one on the east side of 
 Stonethvv^aite, the other between Seathwaite and 
 Langstreth, are barely entitled to be mentioned. 
 
 Harrop Tarn, though but a small piece of water, 
 is the principal one belonging to Thirlmere. It 
 lies on the western side of Wythburn, and its stream, 
 called Dob Gill, passing a few houses, joins the 
 rivulet in the vale a little before it reaches the lake. 
 
 Scales Tarn, on the east end of the mountain 
 Saddleback, is an oval piece of water, covering an 
 area of three acres and a half, its two diameter-s 
 being 176 and 124 yards, its depth 18 feet; it is 
 
34 
 
 TARNS. 
 
 uninhabited by the finny tribe. Some very exag- 
 gerated descriptions of this tarn have found their 
 way into the History of Cumberland and other 
 publications. From its gloomy appearance, occa- 
 sioned by being overshadowed by steep rocks, its 
 depth was supposed to be very great; and it has 
 been represented as the crater of an extinct vol- 
 cano; an assumption not supported by present 
 appearances. Its stream, nearly encompassing 
 Souterfell, is called the Glenderamakin, which, 
 passing Threlkeld, joins that from Thirlmere to 
 form the Greta. 
 
 Bowscale Tarn, which empties itself into the 
 Caldew, is seated in a basin^ singularly scooped out 
 
 in the side of a hill. Over Water lies to the 
 
 north of Skiddaw, in the rise of the river Ellen. 
 
 ' Burtness Tarn, or Bleaberry Tarn, lies on 
 
 the south-west side of Buttermere, in a recess be- 
 tween High Stile and Red Pike ; its stream forms 
 
 the cataract called Sour-milk gill. Floutern 
 
 Tarn serves as a land-mark in passing between 
 Buttermere and Ennerdale; as Burnmoor Tarn 
 
 does between Wasdale-head and Eskdale. De- 
 
 voke Water, connected with the Esk near Raven- 
 glass, is famous for the excellence of its trout, and 
 as a place of resort for water fowl. 
 
 There are some other small tarns, of little conse- 
 quence in themselves, and seldom seen by strangers; 
 therefore they scarcely require to be noticed. 
 Such as Eel Tarn, Stony Tarn, and Blea Tarn, 
 in Eskdale; Greendale Tarn, and the two Tarns 
 above Bowderdale, in the Wasdale mountains. 
 
( 35 ) 
 
 THE WATERFALLS. 
 
 LowDORE Cascade constitutes one of the most 
 magnificent scenes of its kind among the lakes. 
 It is not a perpendicular fall, but a foaming cata- 
 ract; the water rushing impetuously from a height 
 of 360 feet, and bounding over and among the 
 large blocks of stone with which the channel is 
 filled; so that when the river is full, it is a striking 
 object at three miles distance. To the left, the 
 
36 
 
 WATERFALLS. 
 
 perpendicular Gowder Crag, nearly five hundred 
 feet high, towers proudly pre-eminent; while from 
 the fissures of Shepherd's Crag on the right, the 
 oak, ash, birch, holly, and wild rose, hang in wan- 
 ton luxuriance. At the place where it is usually 
 seen, more than half the height of the fall lies 
 beyond the limits of the view, and in dry seasons 
 there is a deSciency of water; yet its splendid 
 accompaniments of wood and rock render it at all 
 times an object deserving the notice of tourists. 
 
 Winding round Shepherd's Crag towards the 
 top of the fall, and looking, between two finely 
 wooded side screens, through the chasm in which 
 the water is precipitated, a part of Derwent lake 
 with its islands, beyond it the vale of Keswick, 
 ornamented with white buildings, and the whole 
 surmounted fef the lofty Skiddaw — forms a pic- 
 twte m its kind scarcely to be equalled. 
 
 Barrow Cascade, two miles from Keswick, 
 has an upper and lower fall, more perpendicular 
 than that of Lowdore, and exhibits to advantage 
 a smaller quantity of water. From the top of the 
 Ml, the lake and vale, when not intercepted by 
 trees, are seen in fine perspective. 
 
 White Water Dash, on the north of Skid- 
 daw, is conspicuous from the road between Ireby 
 and Bassenthwaite ; and viewed from its foot, with 
 the lofty Dead Crag on the right, is a good 
 picture. 
 
WATERFALLS. 37 
 
 Scale Force, near Buttermere, is the deepest 
 in all the region of the lakes: it is said to fall at 
 once one hundred and fifty-two feet, besides a 
 smaller fail below. The water is precipitated into 
 a tremendous chasm, between two mural rocks of 
 sienite, beautifully overhung with trees which have 
 fixed their roots in the crevices; the sides clad with 
 a profusion of plants which glitter with the spray 
 of the fall. Visitors generally scramble past the 
 lower fall and proceed along this chasm, where the 
 air, filled with moisture and shaded from the sun, 
 feels cool and damp as in a cellar; till the more 
 copious sprinkling of the spray compels them to 
 retrace their steps. 
 
 AiREY Force, on Ullswater, is concealed by 
 ancient trees, in a deep glen in Gowbarrow Park. 
 The water, compressed between two cheeks of 
 rock, rushes forth with great violence, and dashing 
 from rock to rock, forms a spray, which, wdth the 
 sun in a favourable direction, exhibits all the co- 
 lours of the rainbow. 
 
 Skblwith Force is not of great height, but it 
 has the most copious supply of water of any cascade 
 among^ the lakes. From Skelwith Bridge there is a 
 roa)dl on the Westmorland side of the river, whence 
 lotosyng down upon the basin, the turmoil of the 
 wmev appears very inter^sttng ; and just beyond 
 this, there i& a good view of Elterwat&r: but, as a 
 picture, the fall is better seen from the Lancashire 
 
 E 
 
38 
 
 WATERFALLS. 
 
 side, where the Lan^dale Pikes, appearing be- 
 tween the cheeks of the rock, make an excellent 
 distance. 
 
 Rydal Waterfalls. — The upper is a con- 
 siderable cascade, pouring out its water, first in a 
 contracted stream, down a perpendicular rock; and 
 then, in a broader sheet, dashing into a deep, stony 
 chaunel. The lower, being near the house, forms 
 a beautiful garden scene. 
 
 Stock Gill Force, at Ambleside, is a con- 
 tinuation of four falls in one; it falls from a height 
 of 70 feet; the water, divided into two streams, 
 after a moment's rest in the middle of the rock, is 
 finally precipitated into the deep, shaded channel 
 below. 
 
 HEAD OP STOCK GILL. 
 
WATERFALLS. 39 
 
 Dungeon Gill is a stream issuing between the 
 two Pikes of Langdale. The water falls about 20 
 yards into an awful chasm, with overhanging sides 
 of rock, between which a large block of stone is 
 impended like the key-stone of an arch. 
 
 CoLwiTH Force is a fine waterfall; and is but 
 little out of the way, for those who make the tour 
 through Little Langdale. 
 
 BiRKER Force, on the south side of Eskdale, 
 is a stream of water emitted between lofty rocks, 
 and pouring from a great elevation down the hill 
 side in a stripe of foam. 
 
 Dalegarth Force, or Stanley Gill, on the 
 same side of the valley, is a sublime piece of 
 scenery. From the ancient mansion of Dalegarth 
 Hall, now a farm house, a path has been formed, 
 crossing the stream from side to side, three times, 
 by lofty wooden bridges. The water falls, in suc- 
 cessive cascades, over granite rocks, which rise on 
 each side to a stupendous height, and are finely 
 ornamented with trees, and fringed with a profusion 
 of bilberry, and other plants, rooted in the crevices. 
 
 Taylor Gill is a dry chasm, meeting the 
 stream of water from Sty-head Tarn near the 
 head of the Seathwaite branch of Borrowdale; 
 and below their junction is a lofty waterfall: a 
 good object from the road to Wasdale. 
 
'^i' RIVEilS. 
 
 Sour-Milk Gill is a name applied to some 
 mountain torrents, on account of their frothy white- 
 ness resembling butter-milk from the churn. We 
 have Sour-milk Gill near Buttermere, Sour-milk 
 Gill in Grasmere, and Sour-milk Gill near the 
 Black-lead Mine in Borrowdale. 
 
 The above enumerated are some of the most 
 noted of the falls : but tracing the mountain 
 streams into their deep recesses, they present an 
 inexhaustible variety : smaller indeed, but fre- 
 quently of very interesting features. 
 
 THE RIVERS 
 
 Of this district are not of large dimensions ; but 
 issuing from rocky mountains, and running in 
 pebbly channels, the water they contain is re- 
 markable for its clearness and purity. From the 
 central cluster of mountains about Bowfell, Scaw- 
 fell, and Gable, many of them derive their origin; 
 others have their source in the neighbourhood of 
 Helvellyn and High Street. 
 
 The Derwent has its rise in Borrowdale; its 
 branches are known by different names till it 
 reaches the lake, from whence it is called the 
 Derwent till it enters the sea. 
 
RIVERS. ' 41 
 
 The river issuing from Thirlmere, commonly- 
 called St. John's beck, has formerly been called 
 the Bure; the one from Mungrisdale by Threl- 
 keld Glenderarnakin ; after their junction it takes 
 the name of Greta, and receives the Glenderaterra 
 from between Skiddaw and Saddleback; passing 
 Keswick, it joins the Derwent, shortly after that 
 river leaves the lake. In heavy rains the Greta 
 sometimes rises so suddenly that it inverts the 
 stream of the Derwent above their junction, so 
 that the lake is for a short time literally filled from 
 all quarters. The water issuing from Buttermere, 
 Crummock, and Lowes Water, forms the river 
 Cocker, which falls into the Derwent at the town 
 named, from this circumstance, Cockermouth. 
 The Ellen rises in the mountains north of Skid- 
 daw, and passing Uldale, Ireby, and Ellenborough, 
 falls into the sea at Maryport. 
 
 The several becks of Patterdale unite in Ulls- 
 vt^ater, the river issuing from thence is called the 
 Eamont; it receives the Lowther, from Hawes 
 Water, Swindale, and Wetsleddale, near Brougham 
 Castle ; and is afterwards absorbed in the Eden, 
 which enters the Solway Frith a little below Car- 
 lisle ; having first received the Petterill, which 
 rises near Greystoke, and the Caldew, from the 
 east side of Skiddaw. 
 
 Two small streams, crossing the road between 
 Kendal and Shap, fall into the Lune — which at 
 Kirkby Lonsdale is a fine river, and crossed by a 
 e2 
 
42 
 
 RIVEKS. 
 
 lofty antique bridge; it is navigable at Lancaster, 
 a little below which place it falls into the sea. 
 
 The Ke7it, rising in Kentmere, receives the 
 Sprint from Longsleddale, and the Mint from 
 Bannisdale. It washes the skirts of Kendal, and 
 enters the sea near Milnthrop, where it is joined 
 by the Belo, 
 
 The becks of Great and Little Langdale, com- 
 bined in Elterwater, form the Brathay^ and those 
 of Grasraere and Rydal the Rothai/^ which unite 
 in Windermere: after leavino^ the lake, it is called 
 the Leven, which joins the Crake from Coniston 
 upon the sands below Penny Bridge. 
 
 The Duddon rises on the south of Bowfell, and 
 separates Cumberland from Lancashire. Unre- 
 tarded by any lake, it pursues its course in a 
 pretty transparent stream, and enters the sea on 
 the north of the Isle of Walney. 
 
 The Esl', rising on the east of Scawfell, retains 
 its name till it enters the sea at Ravenglass; where 
 the Irt from Wasdale, and the Mite from Miter- 
 dale, join it upon the sands. The Bleng, passing 
 Gosforth, falls into the Irt above Santon Bridge. 
 
 The water flowing from the north side of Gable 
 runs in a long meandering stream down Ennerdale; 
 it is called the Lisa till it enters the lake; afterwards 
 it is the Ehe7i till it falls into the sea, half way be- 
 tween Ravenglass and St. Bees. The Cnlder 
 
 enters the sea near the same place. 
 
( 43 ) 
 
 THE MOUNTAINS 
 
 Of the Lake district are of sufficient elevation to 
 command extensive prospects over the surrounding 
 country; yet not so high as to create any disagree- 
 able sensations in climbing their slopes, or tra- 
 versing their ridges, in favourable weather. 
 
 Their magnitude imparts a sublimity to the 
 scenery, without overcharging the picture with any 
 disproportionate objects. The rocks and ravines on 
 their sides convey some knowledge of the materials 
 whereof they are composed; and, by their variety 
 of soil and elevation of surface, they are adapted 
 to the production of different kinds of vegetables. 
 
 In the summer season the bottoms of the glens 
 are grazed by cattle; the flocks ascend their steeps, 
 and nibble a scanty sustenance from the blades of 
 grass peeping out between the stones on the high- 
 est summits. Some of the sheep are annually 
 drawn from the flock, and placed in the inclosures 
 to fatten — and they make excellent mutton; but 
 many remain upon the commons during winter, 
 when, in deep snows, the occupation of the shep- 
 herd becomes arduous. 
 
 Foxes breed in caverns on the mountains; but 
 being accused of the destruction of young lambs 
 and poultry, the shepherds declare war against 
 them whenever they are found. A few Red Deer 
 are still remaining upon the Fells of Martindale. 
 
 Eao-les, which half a century ago were frequently 
 
44 
 
 MOUNTAINS. 
 
 seen in their lofty flights over these mountains, are 
 not now to be met with. Though they built their 
 nests in the most inaccessible rocks, the shepherds 
 were so bent upon their destruction, that they con- 
 trived, by the help of ropes, annually to take away 
 or destroy either the eggs or the young; till at 
 length the species has been wholly exterminated 
 from the country. 
 
 A small bird called the Dotterel is found upon 
 Skiddaw, and other high mountains. Grouse breed 
 in parts thickly covered with heath. About the 
 latter end of October, Woodcocks begin to arrive, 
 and are frequently met with on the woods and 
 commons bordering on some of the lakes. 
 
 SKIDDAW. 
 
 A view of the country, from at least one of the 
 eminent mountains of the district, is considered as 
 forming a part of the tour, by those who can mus- 
 ter strength and resolution for the undertaking; 
 and for this purpose Skiddaw is, on several ac- 
 counts, generally selected. It is nearest to the 
 station at Keswick, most easy of access, as ladies 
 may ride on horseback to the very summit; and 
 standing in some measure detached, the view, 
 especially to the north and west, is less intercepted 
 by other mountains. 
 
 Skiddaw is the supreme of a group of mountains 
 about thirty miles in circumference; including 
 Saddleback, Carrock, and the Caldbeck fells: its 
 
...Hullocic 
 ...Long Side 
 ,j ^ \ ...Carlside 
 
 m \^)'<'' > ...Carsleddam (line 2) 
 
 ..Broad End, near the 
 
 .Little Man 
 
 Ilowgill Tongue (line 2) 
 
 ...High Row Fell 
 
 Priest Man 
 
 ...Linthwaite Pike, Sad- 
 dleback 
 
 ...Knot AUer 
 ...Scales Fell 
 
SKIDDAW. 45 
 
 •height, according to Colonel Mudge, is 3022 feet 
 above the sea. A mean of seven different trials 
 with the barometer, betv>^een the years 1809 and 
 the present time, makes it 2803 feet above Der- 
 went lake; and the result of a geometrical process 
 by the late Mr. Greatorex, in 1817, agrees with 
 the same very nearly. 
 
 The body of the mountain is a rock of dark 
 coloured clay-slate, in some parts of which crystals 
 of c%(;/6'/r;/e7fc' are found imbedded; and among its 
 vegetable productions are the different species of 
 Lycopodium and Vacciniu7n, the Calluna vulgaris, 
 and Em.petrum nigrum; and upon the summit the 
 Scdix herbacea peeps forth among the stones. 
 
 The desire of an extensive prospect being the 
 principal motive for ascending a mountain, it is a 
 question frequently asked, " Which is the best time 
 of day for going up Skiddaw?" It is not easy to 
 give a precise answer to this question ; the morn- 
 ing is commonly recommended, and generally, the 
 sooner you are there after the sun has fully illu- 
 mined the mountains the better; whether in an 
 early morning, or on a dispersion of the clouds in 
 any other part of the day. 
 
 During a clear cold night, the vapour is copi- 
 ously precipitated from the higher into the lower 
 parts of the atmosphere; so that very early in a 
 morning, the summits of the mountains, gilded by 
 the sun, appear in great magnificence; and the 
 contrast of light and shade upon their sides is 
 very interesting. But, at such times, a haziness 
 
46 
 
 SKIDDAW. 
 
 often prevails in the valleys ; which, as the air be- 
 comes warmed by the sun, again ascends; and at 
 the same time receives an augmentation by the 
 vapour arising from the ground; the tremulous 
 motion of which may sometimes be perceived, as it 
 exudes from the surface of the earth in places ex- 
 posed to the most direct action of the solar rays. 
 
 After a succession of dry and hot days the air 
 is seldom favourable for a prospect; but between 
 showers, or when clouds prevail — provided they 
 are above the altitude of the mountains— the view 
 is often extended to a great distance. When the 
 atmosphere is loaded with clouds, the middle of 
 the day affords the greatest probability of their 
 rising above the mountains; and a mid-day light 
 gives the most general illumination to objects on 
 every point of the horizon. A declining sun may 
 throw a beautiful blaze of light upon some parts 
 of the landscape; but its effects will not be so 
 general; and a person remaining upon the moun- 
 tain till the sun goes down, especially in Autumn, 
 will find night come on apace as he descends. 
 
 Sometimes, when clouds have formed below the 
 summit, the country, as viewed from above, re- 
 sembles a sea of mist ; a few of the highest moun- 
 tain peaks having the appearance of islands, on 
 which the sun seems to shine with unusual splen- 
 dour. And when the spectator is so situated that 
 his shadow falls upon the cloud, he may observe 
 some curious meteorological phenomena. To 
 those who have frequently beheld it under other 
 
SKIDDAW. 47 
 
 circumstances, this may be a new and interesting 
 spectacle ; but a tourist, making his first and per- 
 haps only visit, will naturally wish to have the 
 features of the country more completely developed. 
 
 It is a grievous, though not an uncommon cir- 
 cumstance, to be wrapt in a cloud, which seems to 
 be continually passing on, yet never leaves the 
 mountain during the time appropriated for the stay; 
 but those who are fortunate enough to be upon the 
 summit at the very time of the cloud's departure, 
 will experience a gratification of no common kind; 
 when — like the rising of the curtain in a theatre — 
 the country in a moment bursts upon the eye. 
 
 It will always be better to seize on a favourable 
 opportunity for a mountain excursion, than to at- 
 tempt to fix the time beforehand ; other journeys 
 where the state of the air is of less importance, 
 may be deferred. A telescope may assist in the 
 examination or recognition of a particular building 
 or object ; but in viewing the great features of the 
 prospect it can render little assistance ; it is only 
 when the air is clear that it can be used with ad- 
 vantage; and then, the field of vision is so exten- 
 sive, and the objects so numerous, that sufficient 
 time is seldom afforded for individual contempla- 
 tion. 
 
 From Kesv/ick to the top of Skiddaw the baro- 
 meter falls very nearly three inches; and the air 
 often feels colder than the thermometer would seem 
 to indicate ; which may be owing, partly to the 
 heat acquired by the exertion in climbing, and 
 
48 SKIDDAW. 
 
 partly to the greater quantity of moisture in the 
 air, with a current prevaiUng upon the summit; by 
 which the heat evolved by the body is more rapidly 
 dispelled from the clothing ; but the difficulty of 
 breathing, which some have apprehended from the 
 diminished pressure of the atmosphere, is not 
 found by experience. 
 
 The distance to be travelled from Keswick to 
 the top of Skiddaw is nearly six miles. Since the 
 inclosure of the common took place, in 1810, the 
 way has been varied at the discretion of the gen- 
 tlemen through whose grounds it lies. Visitors 
 have sometimes been directed to set out by the 
 Cockermouth road, through the toll bar; but at 
 present they take the Penrith turnpike, by the 
 side of the river Greta for half a mile; still winding 
 along the skirts of Latrigg, by an occupation road, 
 at a pleasant elevation; vt^here the lake of Der- 
 wentwater, the town of Keswick, the beautiful 
 valley, and encircling mountains, are seen to great 
 advantage. Part of the lake of Bassenthwaite 
 also comes in view; but it adds little to the value 
 of the prospect. 
 
 Beyond the precincts of Latrigg we have little 
 appearance of a road; but having turned to the 
 right from one gate, and to the left from the next, 
 a wall — first on the left hand, and afterwards on 
 the right — points out the v/ay. The ascent hitherto 
 has been so gentle, that at the distance of three 
 miles we have reached but one third of the required 
 altitude: but now we begin to encounter a more 
 
SKIDDAW. 49 
 
 Steep part of the mountain. As we advance in 
 height, the objects in the valley appear to be 
 diminished in magnitude and importance; but our 
 prospects are enlarged, by mountains at a greater 
 distance rising into view; among which are those 
 of Coniston, and the hyperbolic summit of the 
 Pike of Stickle, in Langdale. 
 
 Having reached one half of the altitude, the 
 wall makes a turn to the right, where we leave it 
 —our path lying more directly up the hill — and 
 having combated this steep for about a quarter of 
 a mile further, we find ourselves upon a turfy plain 
 of moderate acclivity; and by degrees obtain a 
 view of the sea, with a portion of Scotland beyond 
 it — the Isle of Man gradually advancing from be- 
 hind the western mountains. In a small hollow, 
 if the weather is not too droughty, we meet with 
 a spring of water; and, as it is the last by the way, 
 it may be taken advantage of to dilute the brandy, 
 which — with a few biscuits or sandwiches — a pro- 
 vident guide will not forget to recommend. 
 
 We are now upon the verge of a tract bearing 
 the name of Skiddaw Forest, although without a 
 tree. The heath is well stocked with grouse, for 
 the protection of which a lodge was erected by the 
 late Earl of Egremont. Here the river Caldew 
 takes its rise; and from hence in a serpentine 
 course makes its way to Carlisle. A new view to 
 the northward now opens to us, over the narrow 
 part of Solway Frith, into Scotland; and we descry 
 the long-looked-for pile upon the summit of the 
 
 F 
 
50 
 
 SKIDDAW. 
 
 mountain. Following a beaten track, we leave a 
 double-pointed hill on our left, beyond which suc- 
 ceeds another steep ascent of 500 feet, where we 
 suddenly regain a view of Derwentwater and the 
 mountains beyond it. At the top of this steep we 
 reach the last point seen from the valley; it is the 
 south end of a ridge, covered with fragments of 
 slaty rocks; and towards its further end lies the 
 object of our journey, which is marked by a large 
 pile of stones, erected in 1826, by a detachment of 
 the Ordnance surveyors. Here the lake of Der- 
 went and vale of Keswick are hid from us; but our 
 attention is now arrested by more distant objects. 
 The town of Whitehaven is concealed from our 
 sight; but the headlands of St. Bees beyond it are 
 conspicuous; and the Isle of Man in the same 
 direction. Workington, with its shipping, may 
 be seen due west, and further northwards Mary- 
 port, and the fashionable bathing place of Allonby. 
 Cockermouth, with its church and castle, is seen 
 over the foot of Bassenthwaite Lake; and between 
 us and the borders of Scotland lies a large extent 
 of cultivated country, in which the city of Carlisle 
 stands as a central object. Beyond Sol way Frith, 
 the mountain Criffel, in Kircudbrightshire, appears 
 near the shore; and on its right is the mouth of 
 the river Nith, on which stands the town of Dum- 
 fries. To the left lies the small island called 
 Hasten, at the foot of the water of Orr; and fur- 
 ther west, the mouth of the Dee, at Kirkcudbright, 
 opening into the large bay of Wigton. Beyond 
 
SKIDDAW. 51 
 
 it, the bay of Glenluce, with Burrow Head, and 
 the Mull of Galloway, are sometimes visible. 
 The houses and cornfields on the Scottish coast 
 are often distinguishable; with mountains rising 
 behind mountains to an interminable distance. 
 The Cheviot hills appear in the direction of High 
 Pike; but it would be in vain to look for the 
 German Ocean, which has sometimes been repre- 
 sented as visible from hence. 
 
 Penrith and its Beacon may be seen, and beyond 
 it the lofty Crossfell, with some of the eminences 
 bordering upon Northumberland, Durham, and 
 Yorkshire. To the ria-ht of Penrith are the walls 
 of Brougham Castle, and the mansion of Lord 
 Brouo-ham. The hills surrounding Ullswater are 
 in view; and the top of Ingleborough appears 
 beyond the end of High Street. Through the 
 gap of Dunmail Raise, the estuary of the Kent, 
 below Milnthorp, appears in two small portions, 
 separated by the intervention of Yewbarrow, a 
 hill in Witherslack; and the castle of Lancaster 
 may sometimes be discerned v/ith a telescope, 
 beyond the southern edge of Gummers-how, in 
 Cartmel Fells. 
 
 The superior eminences of Scawfell and Gable 
 have been in full view during our ascent, and we 
 may now discover Black Comb through an open- 
 ing between the latter and Kirkfel] ; and part of 
 the Screes mountain beyond Wast Water, between 
 Kirkfell and the Pillar. In the same direction, 
 may Snowdon, in Wales, possibly be sometimes 
 
52 
 
 SKIDDAW. 
 
 discerned; and to the right of the Isle of Man, 
 perhaps the Irish mountains; but ninety-nine times 
 out of a hundred it would be in vain to look for 
 either. 
 
 It would be superfluous to enumerate more of 
 the objects which on a very fine day may be seen 
 from this mountain; it is the province of the guide 
 to point them out as they rise into view, or as a 
 favourable light renders them most clearly discern- 
 able. It is not those objects that are seldom and 
 dimly seen, that ought to receive the greatest 
 attention; but rather such as may be distinctly 
 known and properly appreciated. It must not be 
 expected that objects at fifty miles distance should 
 appear as distinct as these near at hand; indeed 
 it often happens, that they cannot be seen at all, 
 though the air to a moderate distance seems re- 
 markably clear ; yet still a person who sets out with 
 a disposition to be pleased, will, on any tolerably 
 fine day, be sufficiently compensated for his trouble; 
 and the more the distant objects are veiled from 
 view, the higher will the near ones rise in estima- 
 tion. 
 
 One of the most vexatious circumstances, and 
 which not unfrequently happens, is to meet with a 
 small cap of cloud upon the summit, that entirely 
 excludes all prospect from thence; in such a case, 
 the party — if on foot, and not over timid — ought 
 to be conducted from the south end of the ridge 
 downwards about 600 feet to a part of the moun- 
 tain called Carlside, where most of the objects 
 
HELVELLYN. 53 
 
 may be seen that should have been visible from the 
 summit, and the homeward journey, by the hamlet 
 of Millbeck, not at all lengthened — only in parts 
 steeper. By deviating from Carlside tarn, along- 
 the ridge to the point of Hullock, the city of 
 Carlisle may just be seen; and an unrivalled view 
 of Bassenthwaite Lake. A party on horseback 
 might go a little to the northward from the sum- 
 mit, make their descent into the valley of Bas- 
 senthwaite, and after refreshing at the Castle 
 Inn, return to Keswick on the western side of the 
 Lake. 
 
 HELVELLYN 
 
 Affords a more complete geographical display of 
 the lake district than any other point within its 
 limits: several of the lakes may be viewed from 
 thence, and the mountains in every direction ap- 
 pear in a most splendid arrangement ; while, from 
 the south to the western part of the horizon, the 
 distant ocean may be discerned through several of 
 the spaces between them. 
 
 According to Colonel Mudge, the height of 
 Helvellyn above the level of the sea is 3055 feet. 
 It is about 2540 feet above the Nag's Head, at 
 Wythburn, from which place it is most frequently 
 ascended; the distance here being the shortest, 
 and a guide can be had. It is too steep to make 
 use of horses; but by an active person on foot it 
 is easily surmountable. The ascent on this side is 
 f2 
 
54 HELVELLYN. 
 
 no where difficult or dangerous; it may be com- 
 menced at the six mile stone, at the King's Head, 
 or other places nearer Keswick, where the views 
 in the progress upwards are less circumscribed 
 than at Wythburn. By leaving the turnpike road 
 at Fisher Place, the waterfalls in Brotto Gill on 
 the left hand are brought into notice; in one of 
 these the water is projected further from the rock 
 than in any other cascade in the neighbourhood. 
 From this place, as we advance in altitude, the 
 lakes of Thirlmere and Bassenthwaite are gra- 
 dually developed to the sight; Skiddaw and Sad- 
 dleback being in view to the north; and the 
 mountains lying to the south-west progressively 
 appearing to rise up beyond the long and uninter- 
 esting fell, which lies between the lake of Thirl- 
 mere and the valley of Borrowdale. 
 
 On the western side of the mountain, about the 
 distance of three hundred yards from its summit, 
 and three hundred perpendicular feet below it, 
 there is a spring called Brownrigg Well, where 
 the water issues in all seasons in a copious stream; 
 its temperature in the summer months being gen- 
 erally from 40° to 42°; and when mixed with a 
 little brandy, as recommended by "mine host" of 
 the Nag's Head, it makes a grateful beverage. 
 
 This mountain is also frequently ascended from 
 Patterdale; where, for three-fourths of the way, the 
 ascent is gentle, and gradually opens out pleasing 
 views of the lake of Ullswater, with the scenery 
 around and beyond it. More immediately below, 
 
HELVELLYN. 55 
 
 is the narrow vale of Grisedale, surmounted by the 
 lofty St. Sunday Crag, which casts its solemn shade 
 into the valley. On reaching the first ridge of the 
 mountain, the long-looked-for summit pile is dis- 
 covered on the top of a rocky precipice, seven 
 hundred feet in height above Red Tarn, which 
 lies enclosed in the bosom of the mountain before 
 us. From hence the shortest way is one that 
 many would hesitate to venture upon; while others 
 might think it a stigma upon their courage to de- 
 cline it. It lies along the top of Striding Edge, 
 which in some parts affords little more footing than 
 the ridge of a house, while its sides are far steeper 
 than an ordinary roof. A less difficult way is to 
 leave the tarn on the left hand, ascending Swirrel 
 Edge, which is comparatively smooth; yet here is 
 a little rocky scrambling to gain the top of the 
 precipice; in the midst of which it will be well to 
 halt, and take a view of Bassenthwaite Lake with 
 its environs; which cannot be seen from the high- 
 est part of the mountain. 
 
 The ground towards the summit forms a kind of 
 moss-clad plain, sloping gently to the west, and 
 terminated on the east by a series of rocky preci- 
 pices; and here the prospect on every side is grand 
 beyond conception. Considerable portions of the 
 lakes of Ullswater, Windermere, Coniston, and 
 Esthwaite, with several of the mountain tarns, are 
 to be seen. Red Tarn is seated so deeply below the 
 eye, that, compared with its gigantic accompani- 
 ments, it would scarcely be estimated at more than 
 
56 HELVELLYN. 
 
 half its actual dimensions. To the right and left 
 of Red Tarn, the two narrow ridges called Strid- 
 ing Edge and Swirrel Edge, are stretched out in 
 the direction of the lamina of the slaty rock, of 
 which this part of the mountain is composed.. 
 Beyond Swirrel Edge lies Keppel-cove Tarn; and 
 at the termination of the ridge rises the peak of 
 Catsty-cam, modernized into Catchedecam, or 
 Catchety-cam. Angle Tarn, and the frothy stream 
 from Ayes Water, may be seen among the hills 
 beyond Patterdale; and more remote, the estuaries, 
 of the Kent and Leven, uniting in the wide bay 
 of Morecarnbe, and extending to the distant ocean. 
 Chapel Isle is an object in the Ulverston channel; 
 and a small triangular piece of water, near the 
 middle of Windermere, serves as a direction to the 
 town and Castle of Lancaster, which are some- 
 times visible from hence. The sea, circumscribing 
 the western half of the Lake district, from Lan- 
 caster sands to the Solway Frith, is here and there 
 visible between the peaks of the distant mountains; 
 each portion in succession reflecting the sun's rays 
 to the eye of the spectator, as the luminary de- 
 scends towards the western horizon. 
 
 On the banks of Uliswater, Hallsteads, the 
 beautiful summer retreat of John Marshall, Esq., 
 occupies a prominent station. From the foot of the 
 lake the vale of Eamont leads towards Brougham- 
 Hall and the ruins of the ancient Castle near it. 
 The cultivated country about Penrith is bounded 
 by a chain of mountairrs topped by the lofty Cr©ss^ 
 
Old Man — Coniston 
 Wetherlam (line 2) 
 Carrs, or Scars 
 
 Grey Friar^^^^^^ 
 
 Black Comb 
 
 Harrison Stickle (line 2) 
 Crinkle Crags 
 
 Hanging Knot 
 
 Scawfell Pike 
 
 Great End 
 Lingmel 
 
 .Great Gable 
 
 .Green Gable 
 
 .Kirkfell 
 . Seatallan 
 , Yewbarrow 
 Hay Cock 
 Pillar 
 Steeple 
 
 Honister (line 2) 
 High Crag 
 High Stile 
 Ked Pike 
 
 Robinson 
 
 Melbreak 
 
 Blake Fell 
 Whiteless Pike 
 
 .Grasmoor 
 .111 Crags 
 
 .Whiteside 
 
 .Causey Pike (line 2) 
 .Grisedale Pike 
 
HELVELLYN. 57 
 
 fell; to the right of which are hi^h grounds sepa- 
 rating Westmorland from Durham and Yorkshire; 
 and further still to the right, the crowned head of 
 Ingleborough stands conspicuous. Black Comb, 
 in the distance beyond Wrynose, fills up the space 
 between the fells of Coniston and Langdale; 
 Crinkle Crags and Bowfell are exceeded in altitude 
 by the Pikes on Scawfell; and on the opposite 
 side of Sty-head, the Gable rears his head to a 
 considerable elevation. The Isle of Man appears 
 to be raised up to the top of Kirkfell, the distance 
 of more than fifty miles between them being over- 
 looked. 
 
 The Pillar of Ennerdale holds a respectable 
 station; and the mountain beyond Buttermere, 
 with its three protuberances, High Crag, High 
 Stile, and Ked Pike, rises behind Honister Crag 
 and the Dalehead of Newlands. Grasmoor and 
 Grisedale Pike look well up among their neigh- 
 bours, while Skiddaw and Saddleback abate no- 
 thing of their importance on being viewed from 
 this elevation. The mountains of Scotland, seen 
 beyond the Solway Frith, fill up the distance; and 
 nearer to our station, High Street, Ill-bell, Fair- 
 field, and many other neighbouring eminences, 
 ought not to be overlooked. Place Fell, and 
 other mountains of Martindale, rise boldly beyond 
 UUswater; but between this and the foot of Hawes 
 Water, they present less variety of outline. 
 
 By travelling along the ridge, to a little distance 
 each way, a variety of prospects may be enjoyed; 
 which those who return directly leave unseen. On 
 
58 HELVELLYN. 
 
 proceeding a little northward, one of the islands 
 on Windermere comes in view; and at the lower 
 or northern man, the lakes of Thirlmere and Bas- 
 senthwaite ; by deviating a little to the westward, 
 we see a small portion of Grasmere; and by 
 following the edge of the precipice from the sum- 
 mit to some distance southward, better views of 
 Patterdale present themselves; and the descent to 
 Wythburn may then be made, down steeply sloping 
 ground, to a rocky knoll called Bursett Crag; 
 where is a good view of Thirlmere, as also of Bas- 
 senthwaite Lake. Such as wish to descend at 
 Grasmere may go southwards to the foot of Gris- 
 dale Tarn, where a track v/ill be found which joins 
 the turnpike road five miles from Ambleside; but 
 the best view of Grasmere will be had by leaving 
 the tarn on the left, and proceeding over Seat 
 Sandal. 
 
 Some have extended their excursion from Hel- 
 vellyn to Fairfield, holding on the mountain ridge 
 to Ambleside; but after making the unavoidable 
 descent of 1350 feet to Grisedale Tarn, a second 
 ascent of 1230 feet wdll mostly be thought too 
 fatiguing. By exertion too long continued, the 
 mind as well as the body becomes enervated, and 
 incapable of enjoyment; as it has been known in 
 some, who, travelling through Borrowdale in a 
 morning, would not overlook the most trifling 
 object; yet, in the latter part of the same day, 
 have passed the most interesting scenes on Wast 
 Water, without making any other inquiry than, 
 "How far is it to the inn?" 
 
( 59 ; 
 
 SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. 
 
 Scawfell is the name that has generally been 
 given, in maps, to the mountain connecting the 
 heads of Borrowdale, Eskdale, and Wasdale. It 
 is the highest ground in all this mountainous dis- 
 trict, and indeed in that part of the united kingdom 
 called England. The several lofty peaks by which 
 it is distinguished are known in the neighbourhood 
 by different names. The two most eminent are 
 stated, by Colonel Mudge, to be 3166 and 3092 
 feet in height. I have estimated their difference at 
 60 feet; which, from various observations made 
 between the two points, I am convinced is rather 
 in excess than otherwise. Rising from one of the 
 lowest vallies, the highest point is 3000 feet above 
 Wast Water. 
 
 The lower of these points, lying to the south- 
 west, is a bulky mountain — the proper Scawfell; 
 the higher, rising from a narrower base, has been 
 called the Pikes. For want of a designation suffi- 
 ciently explicit, strangers have sometimes been 
 mistakenly directed to the secondary point; and 
 to cross the deep chasm of Mickle Door, by which 
 they are separated, is a work of considerable diffi- 
 culty; although the direct distance does not exceed 
 three quarters of a mile. Latterly, however, it 
 seems, by common consent, the highest point is 
 called Scawfell Pikes; and since the erection of 
 the large pile and staff upon it, in 1826, there is no 
 danger of mistaking the place. 
 
60 SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. 
 
 Excepting some tufts of moss, very little vege- 
 tation is to be seen upon these summits. They 
 are chiefly composed of rocks, and large blocks of 
 stone piled one upon another; and their weather- 
 worn surfaces prove that they have long remained 
 in their present state. The prevailing rock is a 
 kind of indurated slate, in layers of finer and 
 coarser materials, which gives to the surface a 
 ribbed or furrowed appearance ; the finer parts are 
 compact and hard as flint: and here the lichen 
 geographicus appears in peculiar beauty. 
 
 Scawf ell- Pikes may be ascended on foot from 
 any of the adjacent vales, but most conveniently 
 from Borrowdale; yet the distance from a place 
 of entertainment, the ruggedness of the ground, 
 and the danger of being caught in a cloud — to 
 which, from its situation, it is more subject than 
 its neighbours — altogether conspire against its 
 being visited by any other than hardy pedestrians: 
 and strangers should so calculate their time, that 
 night may not overtake them on such places. To 
 be enveloped in a cloud is of itself disagreeable; 
 cloud and night together would be dreadful. 
 
 Horses and carriages may be used as far as 
 Seathwaite, in Borrowdale, after which the moun- 
 tain may be ascended on foot at the discretion of 
 the conductor. One way is to leave the Wasdale 
 road at the bridge, proceeding by the side of the 
 gill towards the pass called Esk Hause, and from 
 thence turning up the back of Great-end, which 
 presents its bold rocky front towards Borrowdale, 
 
SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. 61 
 
 and commands extensive prospects towards both 
 Derwentwater and Windermere. Beyond this 
 there are two unavoidable dips and rises before 
 the summit of the highest Pike can be gained. 
 Another way is to follow the Wasdale road to Sty- 
 head Tarn; from thence, with Great-end Crag 
 on the right, pass Sprinkling Tarn, and join the 
 before-m.entioned route. This is perhaps the 
 easiest way, but rather circuitous. From Sty- 
 head Tarn the ascent may be made by steep clam- 
 bering to the top of Great-end, which affords fine 
 views by the way, and is nearer than the last. 
 But many — after having arrived at Sty-head, and 
 obtained a sight of the pile — will be inclined to 
 take the shortest way, by the foot of the great 
 rocks, with a steep ascent at last to the summit. 
 And those who take the last-mentioned route in 
 their progress, should be advised to pass over 
 Great-end and the intermediate summits in return- 
 ing, for the sake of the varied prospects which 
 they afford. 
 
 The divergency of several vallies from this point, 
 has been compared to the spokes of a wheel; and 
 in tracing their courses upon a map, the simile 
 may be applicable enough; but upon the spot, the 
 resemblance is not so striking — the mountains run 
 athwart one another in such a way, that little can 
 be seen of the intervening vallies. 
 
 Here we overlook an immense assemblage of 
 mountains, exhibiting the stern grandeur of their 
 rocky summits; but their general arrangement is 
 
 QDE. 
 
62 SCAWFELL AND THE PIKES. 
 
 not so splendid, nor their forms so stately, as when 
 viewed from Helvellyn, or from the ascent to Skid- 
 daw; and there is a deficiency of the rich lowland 
 views that may be had from the latter mountain. 
 
 Satiated by mountain scenery, the eye is instinc- 
 tively turned towards the sea, which opens to a 
 great extent, and shews the various indentations of 
 the Lancashire and Cumberland coast; with the 
 isle of Walney stretching from the bay of More- 
 cambe to the estuary of the Duddon. The top of 
 Ingleborough may be seen in the distance; but it 
 requires a very clear atmosphere to discern the 
 mountains of North Wales, which stretch out to 
 the right of Black Comb. The Isle of Man is 
 frequently visible; and, when the surface of the 
 sea is covered with a thin film of vapour, the efi"ect 
 at first sight is curious; the island appearing more 
 like an object in the clouds than one seated in the 
 water. The fells of Coniston exclude the view of 
 Lancaster sands; but an opening, between the 
 Old Man and Dow Crag, directs to the church 
 and castle of Lancaster. Some portions of Scot- 
 land appear on the right and left of the Ennerdale 
 and Derwent Fells; and we are just permitted to 
 see a part of the lake of Windermere, between 
 the Low Wood Inn and Bowness; also the eastern 
 side of Derwentwater, and a part of Wast Water 
 with Devoke Water, Sty-head Tarn, and a small 
 mountain tarn, above Bowderdale. 
 
 From a point a little to the southward, we can 
 take a peep into the head of the vale of Eskdale, 
 far below us; and beyond it, see a single habitation 
 
SADDLEBACK. 63 
 
 in Seathwaite, near the rise of the Duddon. Pass- 
 ing towards Great-end a portion of Crummock 
 Lake comes in sight; and from Great-end, and 
 Esk Hause, there are more open views towards 
 the head of Windermere, Loughrigg, Elterwater, 
 and Derwentwater. 
 
 SADDLEBACK 
 
 — Being at a greater distance from the station at 
 Keswick than Skiddaw, of somewhat inferior ele- 
 vation, and the ascent not quite so easy — is seldom 
 visited by strangers. It is better situated than 
 Skiddaw for a view towards the south, and also of 
 the neighbourhood of Lowther and Penrith; but 
 the western view is greatly intercepted. It has 
 formerly been called Blencathera, and it is from 
 its shape, as seen from the vicinity of Penrith, 
 that it has received the name of Saddleback. Its 
 height is 2787 feet, and its rock is a primitive clay- 
 slate, similar to that of Skiddaw. The southern 
 side is formed into a series of deep ravines and 
 rocky projections; while to the north, it descends 
 in a smooth grassy slope: and in a deep hollow, 
 below a rocky precipice on its eastern end, a small 
 dark tarn is curiously placed; as more fully de- 
 scribed at page 33. 
 
 On two occasions, in 1 743-4, the aerial phenome- 
 non called mirage was observed on a portion of 
 this mountain called Soutra Fell: the lover of the 
 marvellous will find an ample detail of the circum- 
 stances in " Clarke's Survey of the Lakes." 
 
( 64 ) 
 
 GABLE, OR GREAT GAVEL 
 
 — So called from its shape — is a fine object as 
 viewed from Wasdale, from Ennerdale, or from 
 Crummock Lake; it is also seen from Winder- 
 mere. It is 2925 feet in height, and was remarkable 
 for a well of pure water on the very summit. This 
 was not a spring issuing in the common way out of 
 the earth ; but was supplied immediately from the 
 atmosphere, in the shape of rains and dews. It 
 was, till partly demolished, a triangular receptacle 
 in the rock, six inches deep, and capable of holding 
 about two gallons; which, by containing water in 
 the driest seasons, served to shew how slight a 
 degree of evaporation is carried on at this altitude. 
 The rock of Gable is a very hard, compact, dark- 
 coloured stone, with garnets imbedded. 
 
 THE PILLAR 
 
 — A mountain rivalling the Gable in height — is 
 situated between the vale of Ennerdale and that 
 branch of Wasdale-head called Mosedale. It 
 presents, towards Ennerdale, one of the grandest 
 rocky fronts anywhere to be met with ; and has 
 derived its name from a projecting rock on this 
 side, which was originally called the Pillar Stone, 
 and had been considered as inaccessible, till an 
 adventurous shepherd reached its summit, in 1826. 
 The rock is a kind of greenstone, more porphyritic 
 than that of Gable. 
 
( 65 ) 
 
 BOWFELL 
 
 Rises proudly in view from Windermere and 
 Esthwaite Lakes. It is 2911 feet in height, and 
 sheds the rain water into Borrowdale, Langdale, 
 and Eskdale. It is easiest of access from Lang- 
 dale, but may be reached from any of the above 
 mentioned vales, or from the vale of Duddon. 
 
 GRASMOOR 
 
 Is a bold rocky mountain on the eastern side of 
 Crummock Lake; it is sometimes called Grasmire, 
 a name in no wise corresponding with its appear- 
 ance. It rises to the height of 2756 feet. The 
 side towards the lake is extremely rocky and bar- 
 ren; but the eastern side is a grassy slope, and on 
 its summit is a plain of several acres. It affords a 
 good bird's-eye view of the Lakes of Buttermere, 
 Crummock, and Loweswater, with their adjacent 
 mountains; and a considerable portion of the Cum- 
 berland and Scottish coasts. 
 
 GRISEDALE PIKE 
 
 Rises to a lofty apex, as its name implies. It is 
 2580 feet in height; and is well situated for a view 
 of the vale of Keswick to the east; and a consider- 
 able part of the county of Cumberland, with the 
 sea, the Isle of Man, and the mountains of Gallo- 
 way, to the west and north. 
 g2 
 
( 66 ) 
 
 CARROCK FELL 
 
 Makes one of the flanks of that mountain group, 
 whereof Skiddaw forms the crown. It is upwards 
 of 2000 feet in height ; and shews a double pointed 
 summit, on which a space appears to have been 
 once inclosed by a wall. Its basis is a crystalline 
 rock of the nature of sienite; and in its neighbour- 
 hood are veins of lead and copper, with other sub- 
 stances highly interesting to the mineralogist and 
 geologist. 
 
 BLACK COMB, 
 
 Pronounced Black-Coom, probably from the dark, 
 hollow on its south-east side, stands near the 
 southern boundary of Cumberland. Forming the 
 extremity of the mountain chain, it may be seen 
 at a great distance ; and is a fine station both for 
 land and sea prospects. In 1808, it was made one 
 of Colonel Mudge's stations, in the process of the 
 Trigonometrical Survey. He calculated its height 
 to be 1919 feet above the level of the sea. Its 
 substance is a rock of clay-slate, similar to that of 
 Skiddaw, covered by a large tract of peat earth, 
 which is used for fuel in the adjacent hamlets. 
 
 CONISTON FELL. 
 
 The highest point of Coniston Fell is called The 
 Old Man, from the pile of stones erected on its 
 summit; which, in 1833, was rebuilt in a more 
 substantial manner. It is 8577 feet in height, and 
 
CONISTON FELL. 67 
 
 has a good view of the rocky mountains, Scawfell 
 and Bowfell, and, at a distance, the highest point 
 of Skiddaw. Coniston Lake is seen in full pro- 
 portion, with a part of Windermere. Two tarns 
 appear upon the mountain, the smaller called Low 
 Water, though on a higher level, the larger Levers 
 Water; and on the western side of the hill, but not 
 seen from the summit, is Gates Water, lying at the 
 foot of the precipitous Dow Crag. Standing open 
 to the south, unincumbered by other mountains, the 
 Old Man commands a complete view of all the fine 
 bays and estuaries of the Lancashire and part of 
 the Cumberland coast — the Isles of Walney and 
 Man — and over the mouth of the river Duddon, 
 on a favourable day, Snowdon and its neighbour- 
 ing mountains may sometimes be distinguished. 
 
 Beginning to ascend at the Black Bull, near 
 Coniston Church, you meet on your left a stream 
 abounding in pretty waterfalls ; the copper mines 
 near Levers Water, and slate quarries between 
 Low Water and the summit, can be seen by the way; 
 and the descent may be made, at choice, more in 
 front of the mountain. Those who admire a length- 
 ened mountain excursion, may begin the ascent at 
 Fellfoot, in Little Langdale, and surmounting the 
 Carrs and the Old Man, descend to Coniston. 
 
 The summit of the hill, like the quarries on its 
 sides, is of a fine, pale blue, roofing slate. In 
 some places a hard felspathic rock abounds; and 
 between this and Coniston Church, on the western 
 side of the stream, the commencement of the 
 darker coloured slate may be observed. 
 
( 68 ) 
 
 FAIRFIELD 
 
 — 2950 feet above the level of the sea — makes a fine 
 mountain excursion from Ambleside, commencing 
 the ascent at Rydal, encircling Rydal head, and 
 returning to Ambleside by Nook End. Lakes and 
 Tarns to the number of ten, may be enumerated 
 in this excursion; viz., Ullswater, Windermere, 
 Esthwaite, Coniston, Grasmere, and Rydal lakes; 
 and Elterwater, Blelham, Easdale, Codale, and 
 Grisedale tarns : oftener than once, may eight of 
 them be reckoned from one station. Here is like- 
 wise a good view of the different creeks and inlets 
 of the sea towards Lancaster and Ulverston. 
 
 LANGDALE PIKES, 
 
 Called Pike of Stickle, and Harrison Stickle, 
 are by their peculiar form distinguished at a great 
 distance. They afford some good views to the 
 south-east : but being encompassed on other sides 
 by higher mountains, the prospect is somewhat 
 limited. Harrison Stickle, the higher, is 2400 
 feet above the level of the sea : it is more easily 
 ascended, and has the better prospect towards 
 Rydal and Ambleside; but the Pike of Stickle has 
 the advantage of catching, through an opening in 
 the hills, a more perfect view of the lake of Bas- 
 senthwaite, and the mountain Skiddaw — from both 
 of which Harrison Stickle is nearly excluded by 
 the interposition of higher lands. 
 
( 69 ) 
 
 HIGH STREET 
 
 Seems to have taken its name from an ancient road 
 which appears as a broad green path over this 
 mountain. It is probably the highest road ever 
 formed in England, being 2700 feet above the 
 level of the sea. On account of its central situa- 
 tion, between the vales of Patterdale, Martindale, 
 Mardale, Kentmere, and Troutbeck, and being 
 connected with others at a little distance; an 
 annual meeting was formerly held here, when the 
 shepherds of the several vales reciprocally commu- 
 nicated intelligence of such sheep as might have 
 strayed beyond their proper bounds; and to en- 
 liven the meeting, races and other diversions were 
 instituted; ale and cakes being supplied from the 
 neighbouring villages. Highstreet affords some 
 good prospects; but being at a distance from any 
 place of entertainment, it is seldom visited by 
 strangers. Pedestrians, fond of mountain rambles, 
 might, with a guide, pass over it from Patterdale 
 into Troutbeck, or Kentmere ; or into Mardale, 
 and thence by Hawes Water to Bampton — from 
 whence are roads to Pooley Bridge, Lowther, 
 Penrith, and Shap. 
 
 WANSFELL PIKE 
 
 Stands near the junction of the green slate with 
 the dark slaty limestone. It rises nearly 1500 
 feet above Windermere Lake. This is a moderate 
 
70 WHITELESS PIKE. 
 
 elevation compared with many of its neighbours; 
 yet it is not deficient in prospects. It affords ex- 
 cellent views of Windermere, Grasmere, and 
 Rydal lakes; the towns of Ambleside and Hawks- 
 head, with the beautifully diversified scenery in 
 the neighbourhood. Further distant are seen the 
 sands of Milnthorp, Lancaster, and Ulverston, 
 with the majestic mountains of Coniston and Lang- 
 dale. In a walk from the pike, towards Kirkstone, 
 it is curious to observe Great Gable start out, as 
 it were, from behind Langdale Pikes, and appear- 
 ing to separate itself from them still further as the 
 spectator makes his progress along this ridge. 
 Wansfell may be conveniently visited either from 
 Ambleside or Low Wood Inn: and a walk across 
 the Troutbeck Hundreds, from the public house, 
 called the Mortal Man, to Skelgill, has been highly- 
 recommended. 
 
 WHITELESS PIKE 
 
 Is attached to the mountain Grasmoor, and rises 
 with a steep ascent to the height of nearly 2000 
 feet above Buttermere. It commands excellent 
 views of the three lakes of Buttermere, Crummock, 
 and Loweswater; with the summits of all the 
 principal mountains from Helvellyn to those of 
 Borrowdale, Wasdale, Ennerdale, and Butter- 
 mere. The Isle of Man is also in sight, and a 
 considerable portion of the shires of Kirkcudbright 
 and Wigton, in Scotland. 
 
( 71 ) 
 
 LOUGHRIGG FELL 
 
 Is scarcely 1000 feet above Windermere, and 
 900 above Grasmere Lake, and the moderate 
 degree of exertion required to climb it, will be 
 amply repaid by the prospects. It is just what 
 might be wished in the place where it stands — high 
 enough to command a view of the circumjacent 
 valleys; and not so lofty as to lessen the impor- 
 tance of the surrounding mountains. Every rocky 
 knoll presents a new combination of scenery. 
 Windermere, a fine expanse of water with its 
 ornamented banks; the town of Hawkshead and 
 its environs, with Blelham Tarn, and the irregu- 
 larly shaped Esthwaite Water; Loughrigg with 
 its Tarn, and Langdale with Elterwater ; the 
 beautiful vales of Grasmere and Rydal, with their 
 two lakes; and the town and highly embellished 
 neighbourhood of Ambleside are the lowland ob- 
 jects. The circumscribing mountains of Coniston 
 Langdale, Grasmere, Rydal, Ambleside and 
 Troutbeck, are at such eligible distances, that not 
 only their elegantly formed outlines, but also their 
 varied surface of rock and verdure, can clearly be 
 distinguished. Small portions of Coniston Water 
 and Thirlmere are just sufficient to shew the places 
 of those two lakes. The mountain Skiddaw seen 
 over Dunmail Raise, and the top of Ingleborough 
 in the direction of the Low Wood Inn, are ex- 
 traneous objects beyond the common bounds of the 
 panorama. 
 
72 
 
 BEARINGS AND HEIGHTS. 
 
 Station I. — Scawfell highest point, The Pikes. 
 
 Latitude 54° 27' 24" N. Longitude 3° 12' W. 
 Height 3160 feet. 
 
 Skiddaw 
 
 Ingleborough, Yorkshire 
 
 Black Comb, Cumberland 
 
 Snowdon, Caernarvonshire 
 
 Holyhead Mountain, Anglesea 
 JS'orth Barule, Isle of Man .... 
 
 Sleiph Donard, /re^awcf 
 
 Mull of Galloway, Scotland . .. 
 
 Burrow Head, Scotland 
 
 -Crif Fell, Scotland 
 
 BEARINGS. 
 
 Distances 
 in miles. 
 
 10° NE 
 
 14 
 
 58 SE 
 
 38 
 
 19 SW 
 
 15 
 
 20 SW 
 
 103 
 
 37 SW 
 
 100 
 
 78 SW 
 
 49 
 
 79 SW 
 
 112 
 
 77 NW 
 
 68 
 
 68 NW 
 
 51 
 
 26 NW 
 
 38 
 
 3022 
 2361 
 1919 
 3571 
 709 
 1804 
 2820 
 
 1831 
 
 Station II. — Skiddaw. 
 
 Latitude 54° 39' 12" N. Longitude 3° 8' 9" W. 
 Height 3022 feet. 
 
 Wisp Hill, }iear Mospaul Inn , 
 
 Carlisl e 
 
 Oheviot Hill, Northumberland . 
 
 Cross Fell, Cu7nberla7id 
 
 Saddleback 
 
 Nine Standards, Westmorland . 
 
 Ingleborough 
 
 Helvellyn , 
 
 Black Comb 
 
 ■Snowdon 
 
 Snea Fell, Isle of Man 
 
 Sleiph Donard, Down , 
 
 JJryal Point, nearest in Ireland 
 
 jMuU of Galloway 
 
 Burrow Head 
 
 ■Crif Fell 
 
 Ben Lomond, Stirling 
 
 Ben Nevis, Inverness 
 
 Queensberry Hill 22 
 
 9°NE 
 
 45 
 
 26 NE 
 
 19 
 
 35 NE 
 
 70 
 
 82 NE 
 
 27 
 
 78 SE 
 
 4 
 
 68 SE 
 
 38 
 
 42 SE 
 
 46 
 
 32 SE 
 
 10 
 
 15 SW 
 
 29 
 
 19 SW 
 
 118 
 
 64 SW 
 
 h% 
 
 73 SW 
 
 120 
 
 82 SW 
 
 91 
 
 89 NW 
 
 Q^ 
 
 84 NW 
 
 50 
 
 43 NW 
 
 28 
 
 30 NW 
 
 120 
 
 28 NW 
 
 170 
 
 22 NW 
 
 48 
 
 1940 
 
 2658 
 2901 
 2787 
 2136 
 2361 
 3070 
 1919 
 3571 
 2004 
 2820 
 
 1831 
 3420 
 4358 
 2259 
 
OF MOUNTAINS. 
 
 73 
 
 Station III. — Helvellyn. 
 
 Latitude 54° 31' 43" N. Longitude 3° 0' 21' 
 Height 3070 feet. 
 
 Cheviot 
 
 Cross Fell 
 
 Stainmoor 
 
 Ingleborough 
 
 Bidston Lighthouse, Cheshire 
 Garreg Mountain, Flmtshire 
 
 Old Man, Coniston 
 
 Snowdon 
 
 SneaFell 
 
 CrifFell 
 
 W. 
 
 BEARINGS 
 
 DiBtanee* 
 in miles 
 
 28° NE 
 
 75 
 
 60 NE 
 
 24 
 
 88 SE 
 
 34 
 
 45 SE 
 
 35 
 
 1 SW 
 
 79 
 
 8 SW 
 
 87 
 
 21 SW 
 
 12 
 
 24 SW 
 
 112 
 
 74 
 
 61 
 
 40 NW 
 
 38 
 
 Station IV. — Coniston Old Man. 
 
 Latitude 54° 22' 20" N. Longitude 3° 6' 34" W. 
 Height 2577 feet. 
 
 Calf, near Sedbergh 
 
 Great Whernside, ffeWZetue^^ .... 
 
 Whernside, near Dent 
 
 Pennygant , 
 
 Ingleborough , 
 
 PendleHill , 
 
 Lancaster , 
 
 Moel Fammau, Denbigh , 
 
 Carnedd Llewellyn, Gaernarvon 
 Carnedd David, Caer«ar«o« ... 
 
 Snowdon, Caernarvon 
 
 Penmaen Mawr, Caernarvon ... 
 
 Holyhead Mountain 
 
 Black Comb 
 
 SneaFell 
 
 Burrow Head 
 
 Skiddaw 
 
 90° E 
 
 25 
 
 72 SE 
 
 48 
 
 71 SE 
 
 31 
 
 70 SE 
 
 38 
 
 64 SE 
 
 33 
 
 44 SE 
 
 49 
 
 31 SE 
 
 25 
 
 4 SW 
 
 85 
 
 23 SW 
 
 92 
 
 23 30' 
 
 93 
 
 23 40' 
 
 99 
 
 24 SW 
 
 85 
 
 41 SW 
 
 98 
 
 46 SW 
 
 12 
 
 84 SW 
 
 55 
 
 64 NW 
 
 56 
 
 4 NW 
 
 20 
 
 [The foregoing tables include some eminent mountains beyond 
 the limits of the map, to shew their relative positions and height ; 
 without intending to say that all of them can be discerned from 
 the station under which they are placed.] 
 H 
 
( 74 ) 
 
 THE CRAGS. 
 
 Some of the most remarkable Crags are — The 
 Pillar, in Ennerdale; Honister Crag, near But- 
 termere; Scawfell Crags, between Wasdale Head 
 and Eskdale; Broad Crag on the Wasdale side, 
 and Broad Crag on the Eskdale side, of Scawfell 
 Pikes ; Paveyark, in Langdale ; Rainsbarrow 
 Crag, in Kentmere ; Saint Sunday Crag, in 
 Patterdale; Wallow Crag, near Keswick, and 
 Wallow Crag, near Hawes Water ; Wallow- 
 barrow Crag, in the vale of Duddon ; Castle Crag, 
 in Mardale, Castle Crag, in Borrowdale (said to 
 have been a Roman station), and Castle Head, 
 near Keswick ; Green Crag, in Legberthwaite, 
 sometimes called the Enchanted Castle, or Castle 
 Rock of St. John's; Gait Crag [Goat Crag], in 
 Borrowdale, Gait Crag and Iron Crag, near 
 Shoulthwaite, and Gait Crag, in Langdale; Dow 
 Crag [Dove Crag], in Coniston Fells, Dove 
 Crags, in Patterdale, and Dow Crag, in Esk- 
 dale; Bull Crag and Littledale Crag, in the vale 
 of Newlands; Eagle Crag, in Borrowdale, Eagle 
 Crag, in Buttermere, and Eagle Crag, in Pat- 
 terdale: Falcon Crag, near Derwent Lake; and 
 a Raven Crag in almost every vale: one of the 
 most conspicuous of which is that overlooking 
 Leathes Water. 
 
( 75 ) 
 
 DRUIDICAL CIRCLE, NEAR KESWICK. 
 
 THE ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 A Druidical Circle, 100 feet by 108 in diameter, 
 in a field adjoining the old Penrith road, at the 
 top of the hill, a mile and a half from Keswick. 
 It is formed by rough cobble stones of various 
 sizes, similar to what are scattered over the sur- 
 face, and imbedded in the diluvium of the adjacent 
 grounds. The largest stands upwards of seven 
 feet in height, and may weigh about eight tons. 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 LONG MEG AXD HER DAUGHTERS. 
 
 A monument of the same kind, but of far larger 
 dimensions, called Long Meg and her Daughters, 
 stands near Little Salkeld, seven miles N. E. of 
 Penrith. This circle is 350 paces in circum- 
 ference, and is composed of 67 massy unformed 
 stones, many of them 10 feet in height. At seven- 
 teen paces from the southern side of the circle, 
 stands Long Meg — a square unhewn column of red 
 freestone, nearly 15 feet in girth, and 18 feet high. 
 
76 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 On the common called Burnbanks, near the foot 
 of Hawes water, there are five tumuli of earth, 
 called Giants' Graves. 
 
 KING AETHUR'S ROUND TABLE. 
 
 '" ^ " Red Penrith's Table Round, 
 
 I For feats of chivalry renown 'd." — Sir \V. Scott. 
 
 King Arthur's Round Table is S, circular plot of 
 ground about 52 yards in diameter, encompassed 
 by a trench and bank of earth; with places of en- 
 trance on two opposite sides. It is situated between 
 the rivers Eamont and Lowther, rather more than 
 a mile from Penrith, in an angle between the road 
 to Kendal and that to Pooley Bridge. 
 
 Mayburgh lies about a quarter of a mile distant 
 from the last, between the river Eamont and the 
 road to Pooley. An area of near one hundred 
 yards in diameter is circumscribed by a mound, 
 formed of an enormous quantity of pebble stones, 
 apparently gathered from the adjoining lands — 
 surmounted by a fence-wall of more modern date, 
 and shaded by lofty trees. There is an entrance 
 on one side, and near the centre stands a rough 
 porphyritic stone about 10 feet in height, and 16 
 
ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 7f 
 
 in circumference. The dates and purposes of 
 these two interesting pieces of antiquity are left 
 entirely to conjecture. 
 
 MAYBURGH. 
 
 " Mayburgh's mound and stones of power, 
 By Druids raised in magic liour." — Scott. 
 
 A plot of ground near the foot of Devoke Water 
 exhibits traces of numerous buildings in the form 
 of streets. It is called the city of Barnscar. 
 
 Upon the summits of Grasmoor, Binsey, and 
 Carrock Fells, there are remains of basin-shaped 
 cavities, walled round, and apparently intended as 
 Beacons. The Beacon, standing in the centre of 
 a large plantation on Penrith fell, is a more modern 
 erection of hewn stone, having been rebuilt in 
 1719, and commands extensive views of the coun- 
 try. On the west side of the mountain Hardknot, 
 a space about two acres is encompassed by the 
 remains of a wall, with places of entrance on each 
 h2 
 
78 ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 of the four sides. There seem to have been towers 
 at the different gates and corners, and several 
 interior erections. 
 
 Stations, retaining the name of Castles, when 
 scarcely a vestige of their works remains, are found 
 in several places upon the mountains. They are 
 generally characterized by pieces of freestone, 
 which must have been brought from a distance of 
 several miles, at a time when the roads were very 
 imperfectly formed. 
 
 Remains of Castles of a more permanent con- 
 struction are to be seen at Kendal, Cockermouth, 
 
 RUINS OF KENDAL CASTLE. 
 
 Egremont, Brougham, Penrith, and Dacre. Part 
 of that at Cockermouth has been repaired, and is 
 inljabited; the one at Dacre is used as a farm 
 house; the rest are in various stages of decay. 
 
 Furness Abbey is situated in a narrow dell, in a 
 fertile district of Lancashire, called Low Furness. 
 It was founded in 1127, by Stephen, afterwards 
 king of England, and involved in the general 
 wreck of religious houses in 1537. The monks 
 were of the Cistercian order, from Normandy, 
 The church has been upwards of 300 feet in length, 
 
ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 79 
 
 and 38 in breadth ; the length of the transept near 
 140 feet; the height of the side walls about 54 feet. 
 The central tower is levelled with the side walls, 
 and only one of its stupendous arches left standing; 
 yet enough remains to shew the style of architec- 
 ture, and to give some idea of its former magnifi- 
 cence. A few years ago, the proprietor. Lord G. 
 Cavendish, caused the rubbish to be cleared away : 
 by which many pieces of sculpture were brought 
 to light that had lain buried for centuries. 
 
 CALDER ABBEY. 
 
 Calder Abbey lies about four miles south of 
 Egremont. It was founded by the second Ra- 
 nulph de Meschines, about seven years after that 
 at Furness — on which it was dependent — and on 
 a much smaller scale. Some of the walls, with 
 the arches which supported the tower, and a part 
 of the colonnade, are still in good preservation. 
 
 On the banks of the river Lowther, about a 
 mile west of Shap, may be seen some remains of 
 an Abbey of still smaller dimensions; which was 
 founded about the year 1150. 
 
( 80 ) 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PROVINCIAL 
 TERMS. 
 
 Baerow, a term often intended to signify an 
 artificial hill, is also applied to natural ones. 
 There is Barrow on the west side of Derwent 
 Lake, a hill 1200 feet high; there is Whitbarrow 
 near Penrith, and Whitbarrow near Witherslack; 
 Yewbarrow in Witherslack, and Yewbarrow in 
 Wasdale. Latterbarrow explains itself — a hill 
 branching from the side of a mountain : we have 
 Latterbarrow at the foot of Wast Water, and 
 Latterbarrow in Ennerdale. 
 
 Knot, a small rocky protuberance on the side 
 of a mountain. 
 
 Cop, a little round-topped hill. 
 
 DoD is generally applied to a secondary eleva- 
 tion attached to one of the larger mountains; and 
 mostly having a rounded summit. There is the 
 Dod on the western side of Skiddaw; another in 
 front of Red Pike; and Starling Dod, nearer 
 Ennerdale. In the mountain range, proceeding 
 north from Helvellyn, are Stybarrow Dod, Watson 
 Dod, and Great Dod; and in Patterdale, Glen- 
 ridding Dod, and Hartsop Dod. 
 
 How generally implies a hill rising in a valley; 
 (the sides of such hills are frequently ornamented 
 with dwellings.) There is the How, half way 
 between the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite ; 
 Pouter How, at the head of Bassenthwaite lake, 
 and Castle How, at its foot; Gre^at How near 
 
EXPLANATION OF TERMS. 81 
 
 Rosthwaite, and Great How near Leathes Water; 
 the How and Butterlip How in Grasmere, the 
 How in Ennerdale, and the How near Loughrigg 
 Tarn, with several others. Numerous diluvial 
 hillocks of a parabolic form are found in the heads 
 of several vales — in both the Langdales, in Greenup 
 vale in Borrowdale; and in the head of Ennerdale, 
 where they are peculiarly interesting, especially to 
 the geologist. 
 
 Scar, escarpment, a range of rock; most common 
 in limestone districts. 
 
 Screes, a profusion of loose stones, the debris 
 of the rocks above, resting upon a declivity as 
 steep as is possible for them to remain; so that 
 the least disturbance in any part communicates a 
 motion, somewhat between sliding and rolling, 
 which frequently extends to a distance, and takes 
 some time before quiet is restored. 
 
 Door, an opening between two perpendicular 
 cheeks of rock: as Mickle Door — Coom Door — 
 Low Door, modernized into Lowdore. 
 
 Coom in some districts, and Cove in others, 
 denotes a place scooped out of the side of a moun- 
 tain; there is Black Coom or Comb; The Coom, 
 and Gillercoom in Borrowdale; Keppel Cove, 
 Brown Cove, Red Cove, Ruthwaite Cove, and 
 others, in the side of Helvellyn. 
 
 Slack, a lesser hollow. 
 
 Fell, the same as mountain, a large hill. 
 
 Cam [comb], the crest of a mountain, like that 
 of a cock: as, Catsty Cam — Rosthwaite Cam. 
 
82 
 
 EXPLANATION OF TERMS. 
 
 Man, a pile of stones on the summit of a hill. 
 
 Neese [nose], a ridge running from the summit 
 of a mountain steeply downwards: as, Gavel neese 
 — Lingmell neese. 
 
 The bill of a bird is called its "neb;" so neb, 
 NAB, KNAB, or SNAB, like ness, naze, or neese, 
 means a promontory or projecting piece of land, 
 either into a lake or from the end of a mountain. 
 There are Landing Nab and Rawlinson's Nab on 
 Windermere, Nab Scar above Rydal Water, Nab 
 Crag in Wythburn, and in Patterdale; Bowness 
 on Windermere, Bowness, Broadness, and Scar- 
 ness, on Bassenthwaite lake; High Snab and Low 
 Snab in the vale of Newlands. 
 
 Hause, the throat, a narrow passage over a 
 height between two mountains : as Esk-hause, 
 Buttermere-hause. 
 
 Thwaite is a common termination to names of 
 places, and is understood by some to signify a 
 piece of land enclosed and cleared. We have 
 Rosthwaite, Longthwaite, Stonethwaite, and Sea- 
 thwaite, in Borrowdale; all which endings are 
 locally pronounced long, as Rost-whait. Apple- 
 thwaite near Windermere, and Applethwaite near 
 Keswick, Brackenthwaite in Cumberland; Satter- 
 thwaite and Seathwaite in Lancashire; are all 
 usually pronounced short, as Apple-thet. 
 
 Grange, a farm or habitation near the water; 
 as Grange in Borrowdale, Grange in Bampton, 
 Grange in Cartmel, and Marsh Grange on the 
 river Duddon. 
 
EXPLANATION OF TERMS. 83 
 
 Holm, or Holme, an island, or a plain by the 
 water side. 
 
 Kell or Keld, a spring of water. 
 
 Wath, a ford across a river. 
 
 Syke, in provincial dialect, is a stream of the 
 smallest class: as Heron- Syke near Burton — divid- 
 ing the counties of Westmorland and Lancashire. 
 
 Gill (sometimes wrote Ghyll to secure the hard 
 sound of the G) is a mountain stream confined be- 
 tween steep banks, and running in a rapid descent. 
 These gills are instrumental in enriching the valleys 
 by the spoil of the mountains; they contribute to 
 the formation of a plot of superior land on the side 
 of a valley; or sometimes a low promontory sweep- 
 ing with a bold curve into a lake. 
 
 Beck is a term used promiscuously for river, 
 rivulet, or brook; it signifies a stream in the bot- 
 tom of a vale, and to which the gills are tributary. 
 These becks receive a name from some dale, ham- 
 let, or some remarkable place which they pass, 
 and in their course the appellation is frequently 
 changed ; for instance, a stream running north 
 from Bowfell, and receiving several augmentations 
 in its progress down Borrowdale, is called Lang- 
 streth beck; then Stonethwaite beck, Rosthwaite 
 beck, and Grange beck, till it enters Derwent lake, 
 thence it has the name of Derwent to Workington, 
 where it falls into the sea. 
 
( 84 ) 
 
 THE SEASON 
 
 For visiting the lakes depends mucli upon the 
 taste of the Tourist. They may be seen with 
 pleasure at any time from the beginning of May 
 to the end of October, provided the weather be 
 favourable. Pedestrians will feel the month of 
 May an agreeable season, and they will then find 
 more room at the inns. Towards the end of June, 
 many professional gentlemen are at liberty, and 
 students at the Universities often find it advan- 
 tageous to spend three months among the lakes; 
 thus blending instruction with healthy recreation. 
 Xarge parties commonly require more time in 
 fitting out, and are later in arrival : so that the 
 most busy time is generally from the last week in 
 July to the middle of September. The artist will 
 prefer the richly diversified colouring of autumn, 
 which will be in the greatest perfection in the 
 month of October. 
 
 To such as make the tour with a disposition to 
 be pleased, every season has its peculiar charms. 
 The budding spring, the blooming summer, the 
 luxuriant autumn, and even the biting frosts of 
 winter, have each their respective attractions. In 
 spring, all nature is in her most cheerful mood : it 
 is pleasing to observe the daily progress of the 
 various kinds of trees as they spread out their 
 leaves, and the different plants as they expand 
 their blossoms; while the feathered choir enliven 
 the air with their morning and evening songs. 
 
SEASON. 85 
 
 Iti the middle of summer, all is gay ; the heat of 
 the sun may at times incommode, but the length- 
 ened days will afford a few hours for retirement 
 in the shade, and the evenings are free from the 
 chilling blasts prevalent at other seasons. In 
 autumn, the fields, the woods, and the mountain 
 sides, display the most splendid variety of co- 
 louring, and the air is often favourable for distant 
 prospects; but the days are somewhat contracted, 
 and for long excursions more early rising is re- 
 quired. Even in winter, the lakes still exhibit 
 the same expanse of water, or else a glassy sheet 
 of ice; the mountains — whether naked, or par- 
 tially or wholly covered with a mantle of snow — 
 still reign in their wonted majesty; the rocks 
 have lost nothing of their grandeur, and the 
 waterfalls are occasionally rendered more striking 
 by the splendent and fantastic forms in which their 
 spray is congealed. 
 
 But it should be kept in mind that more rain 
 falls in mountainous than in open countries, and 
 the showers come on more suddenly. The time 
 of the tourist should, therefore, be so calculated 
 as to allow him now and then a spare day; as 
 there is a probability that the greatest part of a 
 day will be sometimes of necessity spent within 
 doors — when the museums and exhibitions of 
 natural and artificial curiosities will be the prin- 
 cipal resources. 
 
( 86 ) 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS: 
 
 WITH NOTICES or THE MOST INTERESTINa OBJECTS 
 PASSED IN EACH KOUTE. 
 
 STAGES. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Lancaster over Sands, to Ulverston 22 
 
 Lancaster to Milnthorp 14 
 
 Milnthorp to Newby Bridge 15 
 
 Newby Bridge to Ulverston 9 
 
 Ulverston to Hawkshead 16 
 
 Hawkshead to Bowness, by the Ferry 6 
 
 Ulverston to Coniston Waterhead 14 
 
 Coniston Waterhead to Bowness, by the Ferry 9 
 
 Coniston Waterhead to Ambleside 8 
 
 MHnthorp to Kendal S 
 
 Milnthorp to Bowness by Crosthwaite 14 
 
 Lancaster to Burton 11 
 
 Burton to Kendal ,......^. II 
 
 Kendal to Bowness 9 
 
 Bowness to Ambleside 6 
 
 Kendal to Low Wood Inn 12 
 
 Kendal to Ambleside 14 
 
 Bowness to Newby Bridge 8 
 
 Newby Bridge to Hawkshead 9 
 
 Hawkshead to Ambleside 5 
 
 Low Wood Inn to Penrith 27 
 
 Low Wood Inn to Keswick 19 
 
 Ambleside to Patterdale 10 
 
 Ambleside to Penrith 25 
 
 Ambleside to Keswick 17 
 
 Keswick to Cockermouth T3 
 
 Cockermouth to Whitehaven, by Workington 16 
 
 Keswick to Penrith .. 18 
 
 Penrith to Carlisle 18 
 
 Keswick to Wigton 22 
 
 Wigton to Carlisle , II 
 
ROUTES. 87 
 
 In making the tour of the Lakes, various routes 
 present themselves, the choice of which must de- 
 pend upon circumstances of taste, convenience, 
 and mode of travelling. Keswick and Ambleside 
 are central points, from which the English Lakes 
 and their surrounding valleys and mountains are 
 generally visited. Keswick may be made head 
 quarters for the Cumberland Lakes ; Ambleside, 
 for those of Westmorland and Lancashire. Ther§ 
 are other places — as Bowness, Low Wood, Co- 
 niston Waterhead, Patterdale, and Pooley Bridge 
 — where a few days might be employed very 
 agreeably ; and a deviation to Shap Wells might 
 be advantageous to health, as well as recreation ; 
 and in consequence of increased facilities for tra- 
 velling, the Spaw at Gilsland might also be 
 reached at a moderate sacrifice of time or expense. 
 
 Tourists from the north may proceed from Car- 
 lisle either by Wigton or Penrith. Carlisle to 
 Wigton is 11 miles, Wigton to Keswick 22 miles. 
 After leaving Wigton, there are some good views 
 over the Solway Frith to the Scottish coast and 
 mountains ; and further on, Bassenthwaite Lake, 
 which some say should be first visited, is seen from 
 the road— one of the richest views of the valley in 
 which it is placed being from the top of a bank 
 about four miles after leaving Ireby. There is 
 also a good retrospective view about five miles be- 
 fore reaching Keswick. Having seen the vale of 
 Borrowdale, the lakes of Derwent, Buttermere, 
 Crummock, Lowes Water, Ennerdale, and Wast 
 
88 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 Water, the mountain Skiddaw, and other objects 
 to be visited from Keswick, the routes to which 
 will be detailed hereafter, proceed by Thirlmere, 
 stopping at Wythburn to ascend Helvellyn, if that 
 be agreed on; then by Grasmere and Rydal to 
 Ambleside. After making excursions from thence 
 to Langdale, Loughrigg, and other places in the 
 vicinity, proceed to Coniston; thence by Hawks- 
 head and Esthwaite Water to the Ferry on Win- 
 dermere, crossing to Bowness and Ambleside; from 
 thence over Kirkstone to Patterdale and Ulls- 
 water, and Hawes Water, if that is to be included, 
 and finish the tour at Penrith, or by Bampton and 
 Shap to Kendal. 
 
 Tourists commencing at Penrith, may go first 
 to Hawes Water, either returning to Penrith or 
 to Pooley Bridge; then by Ullswater to Patter- 
 dale, and over Kirkstone to Ambleside, Winder- 
 mere, Coniston, Langdale, Rydal, and Grasmere, 
 and over Dunmail Raise to Keswick; from whence, 
 after having made the recommended excursions, 
 return by Threlkeld to Penrith. Or they may 
 reverse the tour by driving first to Keswick, and 
 conclude with Ullswater or Hawes Water. 
 
 Parties landing at Whitehaven, Workington, or 
 Maryport, with an intention of seeing all the 
 lakes, and proceeding southwards, may go through 
 Egremont to Calder Bridge, 10 miles; from thence 
 by Gosforth to the Strands, 7 miles. At Strands 
 there are two inns, and it is about a mile and a 
 half further to the foot of the lake. Having seen 
 
ROUTES. 89 
 
 Wast Water, return to Calder Bridge, and by- 
 Cold Fell, or by Egremont, to Ennerdale, and by- 
 Lowes Water, Crummock, and Buttermere to 
 Keswick; from, whence, as may be found expe- 
 dient, the tour may be continued to the more 
 southern lakes. 
 
 Or this route might be reversed, by parties 
 commencing their tour at Whitehaven, with an 
 intention of seeing all the lakes, and concluding it 
 at the same place ; by taking first Ennerdale and 
 Wasdale, and going from thence by Broughton to 
 Coniston and the other lakes, reserving Butter- 
 mere, Crummock, and Lowes Water, to the last; 
 but those who require a conveyance, will find a 
 difficulty in procuring it on some parts of this 
 route. Pedestrians might go from Wasdale over 
 by Burnmoor Tarn to Eskdale, and either over 
 Hardknot and Wrynose, or over Walney Scar to 
 Coniston; and thence to Windermere and the 
 other lakes, as recommended to parties from the 
 south. 
 
 As the greatest portion of visitors come from 
 the south, it has formerly been considered that 
 these might safely proceed as far north as Lait- 
 caster before it became requisite to determine 
 upon the arrangement of their progress through 
 the district; but now that steamers have been 
 established across Morecambe Bay, both from 
 Liverpool and Fleetwood-on-the-Wyre, to the 
 opposite coast of Low Furness, a decision is 
 sooner required. 
 
 i2 
 
90 
 
 LANCASTER. 
 
 From Preston, a railway jjranches off to Fleet- 
 wood, where an elegant hotel has been erected; 
 from whence, at a certain time of the tide, passen- 
 gers are conducted by steam-boat in about an hour 
 and a half to Bardsea, which is three miles from 
 Ulverston, where conveyances can be had either 
 to Furness Abbey or forward to the lakes. 
 
 Pedestrians, when at Bardsea, may find some 
 pleasant walks, as to Conishead Priory, to Birk- 
 rigg, and thence to Furness Abbey, and by Dalton 
 to Ulverston. 
 
 From Preston, there is also a quick-sailing 
 packet-boat, which is a very steady and noiseless 
 conveyance, to Kendal; but the railway having 
 been brought as far as Lancaster, a majority of 
 travellers having taken their places thereon, will 
 continue upon it to that town. 
 
 LANCASTER 
 
 Is a well-built town, containing 12,000 inhabitants. 
 It is a sea-port upon the Lune, over which there 
 is a handsome bridge; and about a mile further 
 up, a grand aqueduct, by which the Canal is con- 
 ducted across the river. 
 
 The Castle, including the County jail and spa- 
 cious halls for the administration of justice, oc- 
 cupies a commanding situation. A great part of 
 the building is modern; but the keep, erected by 
 Roger of Poitou, still remains ; from the turret of 
 which, called John of Gaunt's Chair, is a most 
 
KIRKBY LONSDALE. 91 
 
 extensive and beautiful prospect. An ancient 
 Church, with a lofty tower, stands upon the same 
 eminence. The King's Arms, Royal Oak, and 
 Commercial, are the principal inns. 
 
 Proceeding from Lancaster, several roads lie 
 before us. The most direct route from Lancaster 
 is either by Burton or by Miln thorp, to Kendal, each 
 a distance of 22 miles. Opposite the village of 
 Bolton, about two miles to the right, is a natural 
 cavern, called Dunald Mill Hole: it is inferior in 
 extent and grandeur to some in the West Riding of 
 Yorkshire and in Derbyshire; but to those who 
 have not an opportunity of visiting others, it may 
 give some idea of the nature of these subterranean 
 cavities. Warton Crag on the left, and Farlton 
 Knot on the right of the road, are two stratified 
 hills of limestone, rising to a considerable height: 
 the latter said to be nearly 600 feet above the 
 road. On the Miln thorp road, the waterfall at 
 Beetham Mill attracts the notice of the traveller. 
 
 Another line from Lancaster is up the Vale of 
 Lune, and by Kirkby Lonsdale to Kendal. The 
 distance is greater by 8 miles than that just 
 mentioned; but the drive up Lunesdale is much 
 admired. This route is more fully described in a 
 latter portion of this work, which has special refer- 
 ence to Lonsdale and the Caves of Yorkshire. 
 
 Should the ruins of Furness Abbey be an object 
 of contemplation, the shortest way is to cross the 
 Lancaster and Ulverston Sands, which has for- 
 merly been described as a very interesting ride. 
 
91 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 
 
 LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON, OVER THE SANDS. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 , 4 Hest Bank 4 
 
 10 Kent's Bank , 14 
 
 2 Flookborough 16 
 
 1 Cark J7 
 
 3 Canal-foot 20 
 
 2 Ulverston 22 
 
 Flookborough is a village lying between the 
 estuaries of the Kent and Leven; it has two com- 
 fortable inns fitted for the reception of persons 
 making use of a medicinal spring near Humphrey 
 Head, two miles distant. This water is considered 
 a mild and safe purgative; and, were suitable accom- 
 modations erected upon the spot, there would be 
 no doubt of its becoming a place of considerable 
 resort. On the other hand is the small town of 
 Cartmel, with its ancient Church; between Flook- 
 borough and the Leven sands, surrounded by a 
 fine park, lies Holker Hall, the seat of The 
 Earl of Burlington: and on the opposite shore of 
 the Leven are the noble woods of Conishead and 
 Bardsea. 
 
 To avoid the sands, the crossing of which has 
 in some instances been attended with danger, the 
 more circuitous turnpike road by Milnthorp is 
 now generally preferred. 
 
 From Lancaster to Milnthorp is 14 miles: and 
 here is the option of the Ulverston or Kendal 
 roads. After passing Heversham and Levens, 
 the Ulverston road turns to the left, over some 
 large tracts of peat-moss, having on the right the 
 
MILNTHORP TO ULVERSTON. 93 
 
 isolated ridges of limestone, called Whitbarrow and 
 Yewbarrow, forming lofty scars on their western 
 sides, and reposing on the slaty rock upon which 
 the road in part is formed. From Milnthorp to 
 Newby Bridge is 15 miles; here is the choice of 
 continuing the Ulverston road, or proceeding along 
 the banks of Windermere, by Bowness and Low 
 Wood to Ambleside. 
 
 The road to Ulverston now follows the course 
 of the Leven to Backbarrow, where it crosses the 
 river by a bridge situated among manufactories of 
 cotton, of iron, of pyroligneous acid, and of gun- 
 powder. Leaving Hollow Oak on the left, it 
 passes over some peat-moss, and presently ap- 
 proaches the sands; where it is interesting to 
 meet the flowing tide, as it washes against the 
 breastwork of the road. The river Crake, which 
 issues from Coniston Water, is then crossed by a 
 bridge under which the tide flows, and we join the 
 old road near a place called Green Odd; where 
 small craft take in their lading, consisting chiefly 
 of slate, timber, and iron. From Newby Bridge 
 to Ulverston is 9 miles. 
 
 ULVERSTON 
 
 Is a neat market town, containing 5352 inhabitants, 
 and two good inns, the Sun, and the Bradyll's 
 Arms. It communicates with the channel of the 
 Leven by a canal admitting vessels of considerable 
 burden. 
 
94 ULVERSTON TO CONISTON. 
 
 From Ulverston to Dalton is 5 miles, and from 
 Dalton to Furness Abbey (described in a former 
 page,) nearly 2 miles. 
 
 A mile west of the Abbey, from the top of 
 Hawcoat, there is a prospect, over a richly culti- 
 vated country and a part of the sea, to a most 
 extensive range of distant mountains: and from 
 the more lofty station of Birkrigg, the view of 
 Furness and the surrounding coast is singularly 
 beautiful. Two miles from Ulverston is Conis- 
 head, generally called the Priory, a place highly 
 extolled by Mr. West, who says, "It is a great 
 omission in the curious traveller, to be in Furness 
 and not to see so wonderfully pretty a place." 
 The mansion has been several years in rebuilding, 
 and when finished, will be a splendid residence. 
 Ulverston is upon the slaty rock, Dalton upon 
 mountain limestone; and the valley in which Fur- 
 ness Abbey is placed, is flanked by red sandstone, 
 from which the Abbey has been built. Iron ore 
 is procured in large quantities from veins in the 
 limestone; good specimens of red hematite are 
 sometimes obtained, with specular iron ore, and 
 quartz crystals. 
 
 On leaving Ulverston for the lakes, the road 
 generally preferred leads by Lowick Chapel, where 
 there is a good view of Coniston Lake, with the 
 mountains at its head, and Helvellyn in the dis- 
 tance; and after crossing Lowick Bridge, it pro- 
 ceeds up the eastern side of the lake to Waterhead 
 Inn, distant from Ulverston 14 miles. 
 
CONISTON TO AMBLESIDE. 95 
 
 At Coniston, besides the views of the lake from 
 its banks, and from its bosom in a boat, the lovers 
 of landscape beauties may find some pretty walks 
 in the vales of Yewdale and Tilberthwaite. A 
 full length view of the lake is obtained in passing- 
 over the hill called Tarnhows, on the road towards 
 Elterwater ; and an excursion to Levers Water 
 and the Old Man, on a fine day, would not be 
 thought uninteresting. The geologist may occupy 
 himself in tracing a stratum of transition limestone, 
 alternating with slate, as it bassets out upon the 
 hills, on the north-west of the road leading towards 
 Borwick Ground; just beyond which place this 
 limestone has been quarried and burnt, on the left 
 of the road to Ambleside. The slate quarries 
 about Tilberthwaite, and the copper mines on 
 Tilberthwaite Fell, and near Levers Water, may 
 also be visited; and on the road to Ambleside, 
 the Brathay flag quarry may be considered worthy 
 of notice. 
 
 From Coniston, those who feel no hesitation in 
 crossing the Ferry on Windermere, may proceed 
 through Hawkshead, by the side of Esthwaite 
 Water, to the Ferry ; and after taking a view of 
 Windermere, from Mr. Curwen's Station-house, 
 cross the water to Bowness, distant from Coniston 
 Water-head 9 miles. Those who object to crossing 
 the water, may either proceed from Coniston to 
 Ambleside direct, 8 miles ; or from the Ferry, by 
 the western banks of the lake to Ambleside, distant 
 from Coniston by this route 14 miles. 
 
96 
 
 KENDAL. 
 
 Omitting Furness Abbey, some will proceed 
 directly to Kendal, and from thence to Bowness, 
 Low Wood, or Ambleside ; or for such as wish to 
 enter at once upon the centre of Windermere, there 
 is a shorter and less hilly road from Milnthorp to 
 Bowness, through Crosthwaite and Winster, in 
 one stage of 14 miles. From Milnthorp to Ken- 
 dal is 8 miles ; the road crosses the Kent near the 
 ancient mansion of the Howards at Levens ; and 
 passes the castellated Hall of Sizergh, the family 
 seat of the Stricklands. 
 
 KENDAL 
 
 Is a clean and well-built town, of considerable 
 trade, with a population of 12,000 inhabitants. It 
 is situate at the junction of the Carlisle road by 
 Penrith, with the Whitehaven road by Ambleside, 
 Keswick, and Cockermouth. It is famous for the 
 manufacture of various kinds of woollen goods and 
 fancy waistcoats. Here is a manufactory of ivory 
 combs ; and a marble manufactory, where several 
 varieties of the limestone of the country, as well 
 as foreign marbles, are worked and polished. The 
 remains of an ancient Castle stand upon a verdant 
 
EXCURSION TO HAWES WATER. 97 
 
 hill on the east side of the town, which commands 
 an extensive view over the river, the town, and 
 adjacent country; bounded by noble ranges of 
 mountains. On a mount on the other side of the 
 town is an obelisk, in memory of the revolution in 
 1688. The King's Arms and Commercial are the 
 principal Inns. 
 
 Hawes Water may be visited from Penrith or 
 Kendal ; and there are various mountain passes by 
 which it may be approached by pedestrians. 
 
 A way on horseback through Long Sleddale, 
 has been described with a high degree of colouring 
 in some former publications; but in planning an 
 excursion, several things are to be taken into con- 
 sideration; as, what kind of conveyance the road 
 will admit of, how that conveyance is to be sup- 
 plied, and at what places refreshment may be 
 obtained. Long Sleddale is a valley possessing 
 all the requisites of meadows, woods, mountains, 
 rocks, and waterfalls; but they are deficient in 
 that harmony of composition which renders some 
 of the more northern valleys so attractive to the 
 tourist. 
 
 The road over Gatescarth, between Branstree 
 and Harter Fell, is steep on both sides, yet such 
 as a horse may be ridden, or possibly a cart may 
 pass; and from the highest part there is an exten- 
 sive view towards the sea. The way from Kent- 
 mere, over Nan Bield, between Harter Fell and 
 High Street, is still more difficult. 
 
 Mardale Green, to which the road descends, is 
 
 K 
 
98 KENDAL TO SHAP WELLS. 
 
 about 15 miles from Kendal, and the same from 
 Penrith; it is bounded by the mountains Brans- 
 tree, Harter Fell, and High Street. From the 
 last of which a narrow ridge called Long Stile, 
 projects so far as to seclude it from the other part 
 of the valley; and beyond this rises the apex of 
 Kidsey Pikte. Here are two or three dwellings, 
 one of which is a public-house; and the Dun Bull 
 on Mardale Green will be no alarming or unwel- 
 come object to the weary traveller. 
 
 KENDAL TO HAWES WATER, BY SHAP. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 81 High Borrow Bridge (Huck's) 8^ 
 
 7| Shap 16" 
 
 4 Bampton , 20 
 
 2 Foot of Hawes Water 22 
 
 Four miles before reaching Shap, a road turns 
 off to Shap Wells, at the distance of a mile. This 
 is stated by Mr. Alderson to be a most genial and 
 sanative saline spring; milder than the Harrogate 
 Purgative Spaw, more active than the Gilsland 
 Water, and in its properties nearly allied to that 
 of Leamington. A spacious Hotel has been erected 
 contiguous, with Baths, and every accommodation 
 for visitors. The inn lying at some distance from 
 the turnpike, visitors have been inconvenienced 
 by the want of a place for the reception of their 
 luggage; but this has just been remedied by the 
 erection of a convenient lodge by the way side, 
 where the services of porters may be had, and 
 vehicles for the conveyance of invalids. 
 
( 99 ) 
 
 KENDAL TO BOWNESS AND AMBLESIDE. 
 
 To Bowness is 9 miles, to Low Wood Inn 12, 
 and to Ambleside 14 miles. 
 
 Both these roads lead over elevated ground, 
 from whence, looking towards the west and north- 
 west, a most splendid arrangement of mountains 
 is presented to the view, as delineated' at page 6- 
 On the north and east may be seen the Rydal, 
 Troutbeck, Kentmere, and Howgill Fells, and 
 south-east the distant table land of Ingleborough. 
 
 BOWNESS 
 
 Stands upon a fine bay of Windermere, where 
 boats of various descriptions may be seen riding at 
 anchor. The walls of the houses and gardens are 
 beautifully decorated with evergreens and flowers. 
 The White Lion is a spacious Inn, with a neat- 
 flower garden and elevated grass plot adjoining; 
 and the Crown is pleasantly situated upon an emi- 
 nence overlooking the village. On a site equally 
 elevated stands an elegant School-House, erected 
 in 1836, by the late Colonel Bolton. The church 
 possesses some painted glass, brought from Furness 
 Abbey; and its cemetery contains the remains of 
 the late Bishop Watson. 
 
 Near Bowness are eminences of various degrees 
 of elevation; where views may be taken either 
 from a higher or a lower station; and from the 
 road between Bowness and Low Wood, is a good 
 prospect of the lake and the mountains beyond it. 
 
( 100 ) 
 
 BOWNESS TO ESTHWAITE WATER AND 
 CONISTON. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 2 Cross Windermere to Ferry House... 2 
 
 4 By Esthwaite Water to Hawkshead .. 6 
 
 3 Coniston Water Head 9 
 
 3 Berwick Ground 12 
 
 5 Ambleside ]7 
 
 Coniston lake and its environs may be visited 
 from Bowness, first crossing the Ferry on Win- 
 dermere, and passing beneath the Station, which 
 is built upon a rock, tastefully ornamented with 
 evergreens and flowering shrubs, and may be 
 visited by the way. Ascending a long steep hill, 
 there is a retrospect across the lake, backed by 
 the wooded heights of Cartmel Fells. At the 
 top of the hill there is a prospect of the Coniston 
 mountains, and a mile further on, Bowfell and 
 iangdale Pikes appear in magnificent array. 
 There are some neat houses in the hamlet of 
 Sawrey, and Mr. Beck has a beautiful seat at 
 Esthwaite Lodge, on the other side of the water. 
 Here are sweet views over the expanded valley in 
 which the town of Hawkshead is placed, with its 
 church upon an elevated site. The road passes 
 on the margin of Esthwaite Water, where the 
 Coniston, Langdale, and Grasmere mountains may 
 be seen; and, when unobstructed by trees, the 
 easternmost point of Skiddaw can be seen through 
 the gap of Dunmail Raise, with Seat Sandal, 
 Helvellyn, and Fairfield to the right hand. 
 
 Passing through the little market town of 
 
LOW WOOD INN. 101 
 
 Hawkshead, where a post-chaise is kept at the 
 Red Lion, the road lies over high grounds, and 
 has a steep descent to the inn at Coniston Water- 
 head, distant from Bowness 9 miles. Round the 
 head of the lake there is a beautiful admixture of 
 wood and grass lands, swelling in fine undulations. 
 By taking a boat half way down the lake, its prin- 
 cipal beauties are unfolded; and the return may 
 be made either by the head of Windermere to 
 Bowness, J 3, or to Ambleside, 8 miles: but it 
 would be a great omission to forego the beautiful 
 views that might be had on the road from Bowness, 
 by Troutbeck bridge and Low Wood, to Ambleside. 
 
 LOW WOOD INN 
 
 Is a convenient place to take a boat upon the lake 
 of Windermere, and the high ground above it 
 commands excellent views. A pleasing excursion, 
 on foot, may be made by taking the turnpike road 
 towards Ambleside, about a mile and a half, to 
 Low Fold, where a road turns off, ascending to 
 High Skelgill, thence by Low Skelgill, to the 
 Troutbeck road, by which return to Low Wood; 
 in the whole about five miles. From High Skel- 
 gill the walk might be extended to Wansfell Pike. 
 From a place near the junction of the Skelgill and 
 Troutbeck roads, may be observed one of the most 
 enchanting scenes among the lakes; comprehend- 
 ing the most perfect view of all the islands on 
 Windermere, separated by the most desirable 
 k2 
 
102 
 
 AMBLESIDE. 
 
 spaces; the lake spread out into beautiful bays, 
 and its shores ornamented with elegant villas, 
 planted on various elevations. Excursions may 
 also be made from Low Wood, to Coniston, to 
 Langdale, or over Kirkstone to Ullswater. 
 
 Here, while the admirer of landscape takes his 
 views of the lake and mountain scenery from the 
 rising ground, and the angler amuses himself upon 
 the water, the geologist may be employed in ex- 
 amining the position of the transition limestone 
 and the slate, where they have been worked, in 
 two adjoining quarries near the road, about a 
 quarter of a mile north of the inn. 
 
 AMBLESIDE 
 
 Is an ancient chartered town, with a population of 
 1100; but its market is little more than nominal. 
 It is irregularly built, upon a rising ground, com- 
 manding good prospects of the adjacent scenery. 
 
 MILLS AT AMBLESIDE. 
 
AMBLESIDE TO LANGDALE. 103 
 
 Post-chaises are kept at the Salutation and Com- 
 mercial Inns, and there are other public-houses 
 that accomodate travellers; besides several houses 
 fitted up as private lodgings. Boats upon the lake 
 of Windermere are also provided by the inns. 
 
 FROM AMBLESIDE TO LANGDALE. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 3 Skelwith Bridge 3 
 
 2 Colwith Cascade 5 
 
 3 BleaTarn 8 
 
 3 Dungeon Gill 11 
 
 2 Langdale Chapel Stile 13 
 
 5 By High Close and Rydal to Ambleside . 18 
 
 The Langdale excursion from Ambleside or 
 Low Wood, presents a variety of lake and moun- 
 tain scenery, scarcely to be equalled in a journey 
 of the same length, during the whole tour. It was 
 formerly performed chiefly on horseback, but car- 
 riages adapted to the road can now be obtained, 
 and are more frequently employed. Passing Clap- 
 persgate, the party may either proceed with the 
 river on the left, to Skelwith Bridge; or crossing 
 Brathay Bridge, take the river on the right, by 
 Skelwith Fold; the latter may be recommended to 
 pedestrians. At SkeUvith Bridge is a public- 
 house, and, a little further up the river, a capacious 
 waterfall; but the road by Skelwith Fold, being on 
 a higher elevation, commands a fuller view into 
 Great Langdale. After the junction of the two 
 roads, there is a view of Elterwater. The road 
 entering Lancashire at Brathay, or at Skelwith 
 
10€ 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 
 
 Bridge, leaves it again at Colwith Bridge; a little 
 above which is a splendid cascade. After passing 
 Little Langdale Tarn, the ancient pack-horse 
 road, from Kendal to Whitehaven over Wrynose, 
 takes the left hand; the one to be pursued turns to 
 the right, ascending the common to Blea Tarn; 
 near to which the Langdale Pikes exhibit their 
 most magnificent contour. Leaving the tarn and 
 solitary farm-house — the scene of Wordsworth's 
 " Recluse" — on the left, proceed to the edge of the 
 hill, where you will have a fine view of the head 
 of Great Langdale, into which the road steeply 
 descends. A stream issuing between the two Pikes, 
 and falling among broken felspathic rocks, con- 
 stitutes the noted waterfall called Dungeon Gill. 
 Mill Beck the stream flowing from Stickle Tarn, 
 gives name to two farm houses, at one of which 
 it may be convenient to leave the horses, while 
 visiting Dungeon Gill. Following the road down 
 Great Langdale, the traveller will arrive at Thrang 
 Crag, where the rock in a slate quarry is excavated 
 in an awful manner; and soon after pass the chapel, 
 near which is a small ale-house. Here parties on 
 horseback, taking the road to the left, come to a 
 second prospect of Elterwater; and near the farm- 
 house called High Close, there is a fine view over 
 Loughrigg Tarn, with Windermere in the distance; 
 then crossing a road leading from Skelwith Bridge, 
 we come in sight of the peaceful vale of Grasmere, 
 near the station recommended by Mr. West. The 
 road from thence is formed along the skirts of 
 
EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 105 
 
 Loughrigg Fell, in a kind of terrace, from whence 
 there is a rich view of the lake and vale of Gras- 
 mere on the left. Further on, the road approaches 
 Rydal Water, and soon after passing that, and the 
 village of Rydal, the turnpike road is joined, and, 
 in a mile more, the excursion is concluded at 
 Ambleside, after a most pleasing circuit of eighteen 
 miles. Parties in carriages are obliged to hold to 
 the right from the chapel to the gunpowder works; 
 then to the left towards Loughrigg Tarn ; and from 
 thence by Clappersgate to Ambleside. 
 
 A variety of shorter excursions may be made 
 from Ambleside; a walk of seven hundred yards 
 from the inn, to the waterfall of Stock Gill, should 
 not be neglected; and one of a mile and a half 
 may be taken to the falls of Rydal. A ramble 
 round the lakes of Rydal and Grasraere — round 
 or over Loughrigg Fell — a more elevated walk to 
 Wansfell Pike — or the still more lofty circuit of 
 Fairfield, on a favourable opportunity — will not 
 fail to please such as delight in extensive prospects. 
 Those who have not already seen Coniston, may 
 take an excursion thither; and Ullswater may also 
 be visited from hence, by the steep carriage road 
 over Kirkstone. Some who travel on horseback 
 may choose a ride over the mountains Wrynose 
 and Hardknot, through the vale of Eskdale to the 
 Strands in Nether Wasdale, about 24 miles; and 
 next day by Wast Water, Styhead, and Borrow- 
 dale, to Keswick, 20 miles. 
 
( 106 ) 
 
 AMBLESIDE TO LOUGHRIGG FELL, AND 
 LOUGHRIGG TARN. 
 
 It is a pleasant stroll for a pedestrian through 
 the fields to Miller Bridge, from whence a path 
 leads over the lower part of the fell. After reach- 
 ing the open common, a tourist of taste will not be 
 confined to the path, but, by rambling from knoll 
 to knoll, will obtain a most pleasing variety of 
 prospects; and on reaching the top of Ivy Crag, a 
 large rock overlooking Loughrigg Tarn, he will 
 have an instantaneous burst upon a most extraor- 
 dinary assemblage of landscape beauties. Return- 
 ing from the top of the rock, and proceeding by 
 the path, he will soon perceive Loughrigg Tarn 
 in the best position for a picture; having Langdale 
 Pikes in the distance. Leaving Loughrigg Tarn 
 on the right hand, he may follow the road towards 
 Grasmere, past the house called Scroggs, till he 
 gain a sight of Grasmere lake ; then turning off to 
 the right, he will enjoy the beautiful views of Gras- 
 mere and Rydal, from the terrace road mentioned 
 in a former page ; and for such as have not included 
 this part of the road in a former excursion, it may 
 be highly recommended; a walk altogether of about 
 seven or eight miles. Or, on leaving Ivy Crag, 
 he may traverse over the highest part of the fell; 
 and make the descent towards Rydal. 
 
 Those who travel in carriages may go by Clap- 
 persgate, leaving Loughrigg Tarn and Grasmere 
 Lake both on the right hand, and Grasmere Church 
 on the left; returning on the eastern side of the 
 
AMBLESIDE TO ULLSWATER. 107 
 
 two lakes, by the hamlet of Rydal to Ambleside— 
 an excursion of ten miles. If required, a deviation 
 may be made to Skelwith Force, or into Great 
 Langdale, as far as Millbeck and Dungeon Gill. 
 
 AMBLESIDE TO ULLSWATER. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 4 Top of Kirkstone , 4 
 
 3 Kirkstone foot 7 
 
 3 Inn at Patterdale 10 
 
 This is a very steep carriage road, rising 1300 
 feet from Ambleside, and falling 900 feet on the 
 other side. This hill has taken its name of Kirk- 
 stone from a detached mass of rock, standing at a 
 little distance from the road, and bearing some 
 resemblance to the form of a house. The road 
 passes close to the edge of Brothers Water, which 
 in character approaches that of a lake; although 
 its dimensions are not greater than some of the 
 mountain tarns : the level meadows on the further 
 side are bordered by native woods, surmounted by 
 precipitous rocks : the road then leads through a 
 narrow but pleasant valley to the inn at Patterdale. 
 Here a boat may be taken upon Ullswater, after 
 which the return may be made the same way; or 
 from Patterdale the carriage may be driven along 
 the side of Ullswater to Penrith, 15 miles. Or it 
 may sometimes be preferred to stop at Pooley 
 Bridfire, from whence Lowther Castle and Hawes 
 Water may be visited. Or turning to the left in 
 Gowbarrow Park, by Matterdale, Hutton Moor, 
 and Threlkeld, to Keswick, 20 miles. 
 
( 108 ; 
 AMBLESIDE TO ESKDALE AND WASDALE. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 3 Skelwith Bridge 3 
 
 li Colwith 41 
 
 21 Fellfoot 7 
 
 2 Top of "Wrynose 9 
 
 2 Cockley Beck ]1 
 
 4 Dawson Ground, "Wool Pack 15 
 
 3^ King of Prussia 18|- 
 
 3^ Santon Bridge 21^ 
 
 21 Strands, Nether Wasdale 24:" 
 
 This tour may be made on horseback, or, with 
 some little difficulty, in a cart; taking the road to 
 Little Langdale, as before described, and following 
 the old pack-horse road over Wrynose and Hard- 
 knot, both of which hills are very steep. Near 
 the road on Wrynose are the three shire stones of 
 Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancashire. From 
 Westmorland we here pass into Lancashire; and 
 crossing the head of the Duddon at Cockley-beck, 
 we enter into Cumberland. From the top of 
 Hardknot there is a view of the sea, and the Isle 
 of Man, in the horizon; and half way down the 
 hill on the right, are the ruins of a place called 
 Hardknot Castle; but having been built without 
 mortar or cement, scarcely any part of the walls 
 are left standing. 
 
 The small river Esk winds along a narrow val- 
 ley, among verdant fields, surmounted by rugged 
 rocks, and about a mile and a half down the valley 
 is a public-house, formerly the sign of the Wool 
 Pack, about 15 miles from Ambleside. On the 
 left hand, in travelling down the valley, there are 
 two remarkable cascades. The first is seen from 
 
AMBLESIDE TO ESKDALE AND WASDALE. 109 
 
 the road ; but the other, which lies beyond the 
 chapel, requires a walk of more than half a mile 
 to view it. From the hamlet of Bout, a dim track 
 leads over Burnmoor to Wasdale Head; but the 
 road should be kept nearly to Santon Bridge, 
 when it turns off to the right, to the Strands at 
 Nether Wasdale ; where there are two public- 
 houses. After seeing Wast Water, parties on 
 horseback may go over Styhead, and through 
 Borrowdale, to Keswick; with a cart, it will be 
 necessary to go by Gosforth to Calder Bridge; 
 from thence by Ennerdale Bridge and Lamplugh 
 to Scale Hill, and thence either by Buttermere or 
 Lorton to Keswick. Sometimes this excursion 
 has been varied, by returning from Wasdale, by 
 Ulpha, to Broughton, and thence by Coniston to 
 Ambleside. 
 
 BRIDGE HOUSE, AMBLESIDE. 
 
( 110 ) 
 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 1|- Rydal li 
 
 3 Grasmere Inn 4^ 
 
 4 Nag's Head, Wythburn 8^ 
 
 21 King's Head iT 
 
 6 Keswick 17 
 
 The route from Ambleside to Keswick lies 
 through the midst of lake and mountain scenery. 
 At one mile from Ambleside, a road crossing Pel- 
 ter Bridge, on the left, leads to Langdale, or 
 round Loughrigg Fell. To the right, among 
 ancient oaks, stands Rydal Hall, the patrimonial 
 residence of Lady le Fleming, who has built and 
 endowed a neat chapel in the village. Above the 
 chapel is Rydal Mount, the residence of the poet 
 Wordsworth; and beyond the hall, the Rydal 
 Waterfalls. The next object is Rydal Water, with 
 the heronry upon one of its islands; and a little 
 further, the extensive slate quarry of Whitemoss. 
 The road is then conducted to the margin of 
 Grasmere Water, and gives a good view of that 
 admired vale. At the further end of which, be- 
 tween the branches of Easdale and Greenburn, 
 stands Helm Crag, distinguished, not so much by 
 its height, as by its summit of broken rocks, which 
 Mr. Gray likens to "some gigantic building de- 
 molished;" Mr. West, to "amass of antediluvian 
 ruins;" Mr. Green, to the figures of a "lion and 
 a lamb;" Mr. Wordsworth, to an "astrologer and 
 an old woman cowering;" Mr. Budworth, to "a 
 number of stones jumbled together after the mys- 
 
AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. Ill 
 
 tical manner of the Druids;" Mrs. RadclifFe says, 
 " Helm Crag rears its crest — a strange fantastic 
 summit, round, yet jagged and splintered;" and 
 the traveller who views it from Dunmail Raise, 
 may think that a mortar elevated for throwing shells 
 into the valley, w'ould be no unapt comparison. A 
 road turns off on the left to the church and the Red 
 Lion Inn; the Swan is on the turnpike road, at the 
 distance of four miles and a half from Ambleside. 
 The long hill of Dunmail Raise is next to be 
 ascended. It rises to the height of 750 feet above 
 the level of the sea ; and yet it is the lowest pass 
 through a chain of mountains which extends from 
 Black Comb, on the southern verge of Cumber- 
 land, into the county of Durham. Having over- 
 come the steepest part of the road, Skiddaw begins 
 to shew his venerable head in the distance; and 
 here is a retrospect over Grasmere vale, and 
 through a vista of mountains, extending as far as 
 Hampsfield Fell, near the sands of Lancaster. 
 At the highest part of the road, a wall separates 
 the counties of Westmorland and Cumberland; 
 and a large heap of stones is said to be the cairn, 
 or sepulchre, of Dunmail, last king of Cumber- 
 land, who was defeated here by the Saxon mo- 
 narch, Edmund, about the year 945. The lake 
 Thirlmere, or Leathes' Water, now comes in view, 
 and the road passes between the inn and the cha- 
 pel of Wythburn; about eight miles and a half 
 from Ambleside, and the same distance from Kes- 
 wick. The mountain Helvellyn is now upon the 
 
112 
 
 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK. 
 
 right; but the road lies so near its base, that the 
 full height of the mountain cannot be seen. After 
 passing a little way upon the margin of the lake, 
 we come to another steep ascent, where Armboth- 
 house, the residence of Mr. Jackson, on the other 
 side of the water, is a good object. Dalehead 
 Hall, the manorial seat of Mr. Leathes, stands on 
 this side of the water, but is hid from us by an in- 
 tervening hill. Having passed the summit, there 
 is a delightful view through the vale of Legber- 
 thwaite, with its prolongation of Fornside, and 
 Wanthwaite — together constituting what is com- 
 monly called St. John's Vale — beyond which the 
 lofty Saddleback, with its furrowed front, closes 
 the scene. 
 
 There is a public-house at the King's Head, six 
 miles from Keswick, and a road turns off on the 
 right towards Threlkeld, passing under the mas- 
 sive rock of Green Crag, sometimes called the 
 Castle Rock of St. John's. Near this, a tre- 
 mendous thunderstorm, in 1749, swept away a 
 mill, and buried one of the millstones amongst 
 the ruins, so that it has never yet been discovered. 
 
 The Keswick road inclines to the left, and, 
 surmounting the cultivated ridge called Castle- 
 rigg, there is a full view of Derwent Lake, with 
 part of that of Bassenthwaite, the town and vale 
 of Keswick, with its surrounding mountains. It 
 was here that Mr. Gray, on leaving Keswick, 
 found the scene so enchanting, that he "had 
 almost a mind to have gone back again." 
 
( 113 ) 
 
 PENRITH 
 
 Is a ^ood market town, with 6561 inhabitants. It 
 is a considerable thoroughfare, being situated at 
 the junction of the Yorkshire and Lancashire 
 roads to Carlisle and Glasgow. The principal 
 inns are the Crown and the George. From Pen- 
 rith to Alston Moor is 20 miles, to Appleby 14, to 
 Carlisle 18, to Kendal by Shap 27, to Keswick 18. 
 
 Ullswater may be visited from Penrith, going 
 either by Eamont Bridge and Tirrel, or by Dale- 
 main, to the inn at Pooley Bridge, 6 miles; with 
 carriages, the former road is generally preferred* 
 
 PooLEY Bridge is a desirable station for the 
 lovers of angling, or to take a boat for viewing 
 the scenery of Ullswater. During the first part of 
 the voyage, the banks of the lake are cultivated, 
 and adorned with several handsome villas; the 
 mountains, right and left, are humble; but in front 
 there is a full view of the "mighty Helvellyn." 
 On the second reach of the lake, the mountains on 
 the left make a nearer approach, and the shore on 
 the right becomes more wooded. The boat may 
 proceed to the head of the lake at Patterdale, or 
 by the way be landed at Lyulph's Tower, for the 
 view of Airey Force; from whence the third divi- 
 sion, or head of the lake, is surrounded by the 
 lofty and romantic mountains of Patterdale. Or 
 the carriage may be driven by Watermillock, and 
 by the side of the lake through Gowbarrow Parks, 
 l2 
 
11 4 PENRITH TO HAWES WATER. 
 
 by Lyulph's Tower, to the inn at Patterdale, dis- 
 tant from Penrith 15 miles. 
 
 From Patterdale, either return the same way to 
 Penrith, or pass hy Brothers Water, and over the 
 very steep hill of Kirkstone, to Ambleside, 10 
 miles; or otherwise turn off in Gowbarrow Park, 
 by Dockray and Hutton Moor, to Keswick, 20 
 miles. 
 
 It will generally be found most convenient to 
 visit Hawes Water from Penrith, by way of 
 Eamont Bridge; turning to the right at Arthur's 
 Round Table, to Askham, 5 miles; thence by 
 Helton, and Butterswick, to Bampton, nearly 5 
 more. From many parts of the road, the Castle 
 and noble woods of Lowther, with the lofty lime- 
 stone rocks of Knipe Scar, are important objects. 
 
 Leaving Bampton Grange, with its church, on 
 the left hand, two miles more bring us in sight of 
 Hawes Water. Some will content themselves with 
 travelling a couple of miles along the banks of the 
 lake, and thence return to the Grange for refresh- 
 ment. At this place there are two public-houses; 
 one of which has been rebuilt, and fitted up in a 
 commodious manner. 
 
 Those who wish to penetrate the hidden re- 
 cesses of the mountains, may go the whole length 
 of the lake, and afterwards pass the chapel of 
 Mardale, which is a small building closely embow- 
 ered with yews and sycamores, its walls exhibiting 
 some neat monumental inscriptions; particularly 
 one to the memory of one of its ministers, who 
 
RETURN FROM HAWES WATER. 115 
 
 died in 1799, having served the cure upwards of 
 fifty years. Here the mountains seem to forbid 
 all further progress ; but turning the end of the 
 hill, the party will soon arrive at Mardale Green; 
 from whence they may either return the same way, 
 or pass over the mountains to Long Sleddale or 
 to Kentmere. 
 
 Having viewed the lake and its accompanying 
 scenery, the party may either return to Penrith or 
 into the Great North Road at Shap. But to such 
 as make this excursion on foot, or on horseback, it 
 will be found a pleasing variety to turn off the 
 road to the left a little before arriving at Helton, 
 and follow a track over the common called Moor 
 Dovack, which affords a fine view of Ullswater 
 and its neighbouring scenery; and at Pooley 
 Bridge is a commodious inn, from whence the road 
 may be taken by Dalemain to Penrith. Parties 
 taking up their quarters for a few days at Pooley 
 Bridge, may visit Hawes Water, and Lowther 
 Castle, the magnificent seat of the Earl of Lons- 
 dale, most conveniently from thence. 
 
 LOWTHER CASTLE. 
 
( 116 ) 
 
 COCKERMOUTH 
 
 Is a good market town with 4935 inhabitants. It 
 possesses an ancient castle, has a handsome bridge 
 over the river Cocker, which runs through the 
 town to join the Derwent; and the Globe is an inn 
 furnished with every requisite accommodation for 
 travellers. 
 
 Parties from Cockermouth visiting the three 
 lakes of Lowes Water, Crummock, and Butter- 
 mere, will find it the most eligible way by Pard- 
 shaw, Mockerin, and Fangs; by which the lake of 
 Lowes Water is seen in combination with lofty 
 mountains; and the road from thence to Scale 
 Hill affords excellent views of Crummock Lake, 
 with the surrounding mountains. From Cocker- 
 mouth to Scale Hill by this route is about 1 1 miles. 
 
 After visiting Crummock and Buttermere, the 
 party may either proceed through Newlands to 
 Keswick, or return through the pleasant vale of 
 Lorton to Cockermouth; and next morning, by 
 the side of Bassenthwaite Lake to Keswick. 
 
 KESWICK. 
 
 Having by different roads conducted the several 
 parties to Keswick, it must be made head quarters 
 for a while, to examine the curiosities of the place 
 — to enjoy the rich scenery in its neighbourhood — 
 and to make excursions, some of a few hours, some 
 of a day, and others perhaps of more than one day. 
 
KESWICK. 117 
 
 Keswick has near 2400 inhabitants. Woollen 
 goods and black-lead pencils are the chief manu- 
 factures. The principal inns are the Royal Oak 
 and Queen's Head ; there are other houses where 
 parties may be accommodated, besides many 
 neatly furnished private lodgings. Here are two 
 museums, exhibiting the natural history of the 
 country, and numerous foreign curiosities : one 
 was established by the late Mr. Crosthwaite, and 
 is now kept by his son; the other is kept by a 
 daughter of the late Thomas Hutton, who died in 
 ]831, at the age of 85; specimens of minerals are 
 kept on sale at both. Mr. Wright has a good as- 
 sortment of geological, mineralogical, botanical, 
 and marine specimens, and Messrs. Cooper a 
 brilliant collection of minerals — all on sale. A 
 faithful Model of the Lake District, on a scale 
 of three inches to a mile, constructed and exhi- 
 bited by Mr. Flintoft, is well deserving inspection. 
 The Rock Harmonicon, a series of pieces of stone, 
 collected in the neighbourhood, arranged in rows, 
 and tuned to a musical scale by William Bowe, 
 will astonish the ear of the auditor by the sweet 
 tones given out by so uncouth an instrument. A 
 circulating library is kept by Mr. Bailey. Post 
 chaises, ponies, and jaunting-cars may be had at 
 the inns, with experienced guides for excursions 
 by land; and neat pleasure-boats, with intelligent 
 boatmen, for the water. 
 
 The town of Keswick is, with the adjacent val- 
 leys, included in the parish of Crosthwaite; the 
 
118 
 
 VIEW FROM CASTLE HEAD. 
 
 church is situated at the distance of three quairters 
 of a mile from the centre of the town, and is a 
 prominent feature in the landscape. The vicarage 
 has been erected upon a chosen spot, a rising 
 ground about a quarter of a mile from the parish 
 church, commanding excellent views; and Dove- 
 cote, the residence of James Stanger, Esq., has a 
 site equally favoured. Greta Hall, the abode of 
 the Poet Laureate, stands upon a delightful emi- 
 nence at the north end of the town. Saint John's 
 church, a neat structure of hewn stone, from a 
 quarry at Lamonby, occupies a commanding situa- 
 tion at the south-east eri'd of the town; it was opened 
 for divine service on the ninth of September, 1838. 
 The building was commenced by the late Mr. 
 Marshall, and by his widow completed and en- 
 dowed. A neat parsonage-house and a school- 
 house have also been erected by members of the 
 family. T. S. Spedding, Esq., occupies a neat 
 house at Greta Bank; and Mrs. Turner's, at 
 Derwent Hill, between the lakes of Derwent and 
 Bassenthwaite, has a view to both. 
 
 Castlehead, (pronounced Castlet,) a wooded 
 rock in the centre of the Derwentwater estate, 
 rising 280 feet above the lake, is an excellent 
 station for an introduction to the beauties of Kes- 
 wick vale. From the Borrowdale road, at one 
 third of a mile from the inn, a path turns off by 
 which the hill is ascended; and from its summit 
 the lake of Derwent is finely displayed, with its 
 numerous bays and islands. Lord's Island, near 
 
WALK TO FRIAR CRAG. 119 
 
 the shore, was once the residence of the family of 
 Derwentwater ; the smaller island of Rampsholm 
 lies beyond if; St. Herbert's Isle nearer the middle 
 of the lake; and to the right the Vicar's Isle, on 
 which James Henry, Esq., has a beautiful resi- 
 dence. The circumjacent mountains of Borrow- 
 dale and Newlands make a fine panorama. At the 
 head of Borrowdale appears Great End Crag, be- 
 yond it a part of Scawfell, with the highest of the 
 Pikes. Looking through the vale of Newlands, 
 Red Pike, distinguished by its colour, rises over 
 Buttermere. To the eastward, Wanthwaite Crags, 
 and Great Dod, form th% end of the mountain 
 range extending from Helvellyn. To the north, 
 Skiddaw rises finely, and Saddleback may be seen 
 over the tvees. Crosthwaite Church is a good 
 object in the vale, and over the rising ground 
 beyond Bassenthwaite Lake, the mountain Crif- 
 Fell, in Scotland, shews his head. This may be 
 thought too elevated a station for the eye of a 
 painter; but as a general view of the lake, the 
 town, and the valley, it is excellent. Some of the 
 lower stations, formerly recommended, are ren- 
 dered less inviting by the too great profusion of 
 wood upon the shores of the lake, and upon its 
 islands; but this rock will always remain sufficiently 
 prominent for a prospect; and at the same time a 
 study for the geologist. 
 
 A walk of half a mile to the water side, with a 
 continuation of a quarter of a mile along it to Friar 
 Crag, is the favourite promenade of the inhabitants 
 
120 
 
 VIEW FROM FRIAR CRAG. 
 
 of the town, and affords much gratification to 
 strangers. Turning to the right from the road 
 leading to Borrowdale, the prospect is over Crow 
 Park, to the valley and mountains of Newlands, 
 with High-stile presiding over Buttermere in the 
 distance: in retrospect, Skiddaw rises majestically- 
 over the town. Crow Park, now a fine, swelling, 
 verdant field, was once a wood of stately oaks, but 
 cut down about the year 1750. Cockshot, lying on 
 the left, is a hill covered with trees, which inter- 
 cept the views from its summit, but a walk round 
 its margin may sometimes be taken on account of 
 the shelter it affords. Coming in sight of the lake, 
 Vicar's Isle is most happily placed, the house just 
 appearing through the variegated foliage of the 
 trees. Along the margin of the water, numerous 
 boats are moored, some belonging to private indi- 
 viduals, others kept for the accommodation of 
 visitors; and, at the termination of the walk on the 
 low promontory of Friar Crag, the eye is saluted 
 with a full prospect of the lake, bounded by the 
 celebrated mountains of Borrowdale. To the left, 
 near the shore. Stable Hills farm is reared upon 
 the site where stood Lord Derwentwater's stables 
 at the time his mansion was upon the adjacent 
 island. The Parks, part cultivated, part wooded, 
 occupy the rising ground, over which Wallow Crag 
 shews his massive rocky front; those, with the 
 lands betwixt the town and lake, form the Der- 
 wentwater estate, for some time belonging to 
 Greenwich Hospital, but purchased by the late 
 
VOYAGE ON DERWENT WATER. 121 
 
 John Marshall, jun., Esq. Further on lies Barrow 
 House, the property of J. Pocklington, Esq., and 
 above it the pastoral farm of Ashness; beyond the 
 small island of Rampsholm pours the far-famed 
 cataract of Lowdore; and Castle Crag appears be- 
 tween the more lofty mountains of Brund Fell and 
 Gait Crag, like a centinei placed to guard the 
 entrance of Borrowdale. To the right of St. 
 Herbert's Isle, Catbells with front of brighter 
 green, shelve down towards the lake; which is 
 chiefly bordered on that side by the woods of the 
 late Lord William Gordon, now Sir John Wood- 
 ford's. Looking through the lateral vale of New- 
 lands. Red Pike appears beyond Buttermere; and 
 more to the right, Causey Pike and Grisedale 
 Pike shew their aspiring peaks; the pass of Whin- 
 latter, and the mountains of Thornthwaite lying 
 still further to the right. 
 
 Excellent views of the vale and mountains are 
 also obtained from the Vicarage, from Orma- 
 thwaite, from many parts of a road leading by 
 Applethwaite and Millbeck, along a pleasant ele- 
 vation at the foot of Skiddaw, and from the side 
 of Latrigg. Those who admire more extensive 
 prospects, may climb to the top of Latrigg — 
 Wallow Crag— Swinside— Catbells — Causey Pike 
 — Grisedale Pike, or Grasmoor; and to crown the 
 whole, for once, to the summit of Skiddaw, Hel- 
 vellyn, or the still more lofty station of Scawfell 
 Pike. 
 
 A voyage round Derwent lake will agreeably 
 
 M 
 
122 
 
 ROUND DERWENT WATER. 
 
 fill up a space of two or three hours in any part of 
 a seasonable day, and is generally thought parti- 
 cularly refreshing after the fatigues of a morning's 
 ascent of Skiddaw. Passing Friar's Crag, a fine 
 bay opens out, shewing, on the left, the wooded 
 rock of Castlehead, with Saddleback beyond it; in 
 front, the Lord's Island, with the wooded steeps 
 of Wallow Crag ; and coasting under the lofty 
 Falcon Crag, the boat may be landed to view the 
 cascades at Barrow and Lowdofe, and return by 
 the western side of the lake. 
 
 ROUND DERWENT LAKE. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 2 Barrow House, and Cascade 2 
 
 1 Lowdore, ditto 3 
 
 1 Grange 4 
 
 1 Bowder Stone 5 
 
 1 Return, and cross the River at Grange ... 6 
 
 4^ Portinscale 10|- 
 
 1^^ Keswick 12 
 
 A delightful excursion may be made round Der- 
 went lake, either on horseback or in a carriage. 
 The road lies at the foot of the wooded park of 
 Derwentwater, with the lake on the right, and the 
 lofty rocks of Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag on 
 the left; and in many places it commands excellent 
 views. One that has been much admired, till ob- 
 scured by extended plantings, is on emerging 
 from the wood to the more open common, where 
 the road lies just above the margin of the lake. 
 Two miles from Keswick, a road on the left leads 
 to Watendlath, and we pass the beautiful mansion 
 
BOWDER STONE. 123 
 
 of Barrow. A fine cascade behind the house may 
 be seen by strangers on application at the lodge. 
 Another mile brings us to Lowdore — famous for 
 its waterfall. Here is a neat public-house, where 
 a cannon is kept for the echo, which is very fine, 
 especially in a still evening. Rather more than 
 four miles from Keswick, we have the hamlet 
 called the Grange, upon the opposite bank of the 
 river. 
 
 About Lowdore and Grange, the draftsman will 
 find employment for his pencil ; and the geologist 
 will observe the transition, from the blackish clay 
 slate upon which he treads, to the more variously 
 aggregated and paler-coloured rocks on his left 
 hand and before him. 
 
 The bridge at Grange might be crossed, as the 
 shortest route; but it may be recommended to pro- 
 ceed forward another mile to the Bowder Stone — 
 a fragment of rock above twenty yards in length, 
 and half as much in height, — remarkable for being 
 curiously poised upon one of its angles, like a ship 
 upon its keel, with a little more support towards 
 one end. Its weight has been variously computed 
 
 BOWDER STONE. 
 
lU 
 
 BORROWDALE BY WATENDLATH. 
 
 from 1771 to 1971 tons. But it is not merely for 
 the sight of this stone, that travellers are advised 
 to advance so far. It is chiefly for the prospect 
 here obtained into the interior of Borrowdale, 
 which expands itself as far as Rosthwaite; beyond 
 which the vale is divided into two parts, the one 
 branching off towards Grasmere and Langdale, 
 the other towards Wasdale and Buttermere. 
 
 Returning to Grange, the road then crosses the 
 river, and is carried along a pleasant elevation 
 above the lead mines and woods of Brandlehow 
 and Water End, or Derwentwater Bay, the house 
 standing sweetly sheltered on the margin of the 
 lake. From this elevation, the lake, with its 
 islands, bays, and promontories, is seen to great 
 advantage. The road then crossing the pleasant 
 vale of Newlands, joins the Cockermouth road at 
 Portinscale, and reaches Keswick in a circuit of 
 12 miles. 
 
 TO BORROWDALE BY WATENDLATH. 
 
 On a second excursion to Borrowdale, on foot 
 or on horseback, the road by Ashness to Watend- 
 lath may be taken. From a bridge above Barrow 
 Cascade, there is a splendid view of the valley, 
 with the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite ; 
 and a little further on, by deviating to the edge of 
 a precipice on the right, the waterfall of Lowdore 
 comes in view, and the lake appears at an awful 
 depth beneath your feet. After losing sight of 
 
KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 125 
 
 the lakes, the road lies along a contracted valley, 
 by the side of the stream which supplies the ca- 
 taract of Lowdore. At the distance of five miles 
 from Keswick, it reaches Watendlath, which con- 
 sists of a few antiquated cottages and farm build- 
 ings; just beyond which the tarn is placed, amidst 
 a small area of green meadows, surrounded by 
 wild and uncultivated hills. A track leads from 
 thence over the hill, from which there is a fine 
 view of the head of Borrowdale; it then descends 
 steeply to Rosthwaite, whence the return may be 
 made by Bowder Stone to Keswick; a circuit of 
 14 miles. To contract this excursion, the stream 
 from Watendlath may be crossed about a mile 
 beyond Ashness; then turning towards Lowdore, 
 there is a magnificent view of Derwent Water 
 and Bassenthwaite through the opening above the 
 waterfall, which may be taken at pleasure from 
 a higher or a lower station ; so as to embrace a 
 larger or smaller portion of the lake and its 
 islands. 
 
 KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 5 BowderStone 5 
 
 1 Rosthwaite 6 
 
 2 Seatoller 8 
 
 2 Honister Crag 10 
 
 2 Gatesgarth 12 
 
 2 Buttermere 14 
 
 9 Through Newlands to Keswick 23 
 
 An excursion through Borrowdale to Butter- 
 mere may be made on horseback, or in a car 
 adapted to the road, taking the route before de- 
 
 m2 
 
126 
 
 KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE. 
 
 scribed as far as Bowder Stone: a mile beyond 
 which, at Rosthwaite, is a small public-house. A 
 little further, a road on the left leads by Stone- 
 thwaite, over the steep mountain pass called the 
 Stake, to Langdale. Tourists have sometimes 
 been advised, by this track, to connect Borrow- 
 dale with Langdale, in one excursion; but the 
 better way is to explore Langdale from Amble- 
 side, and Borrowdale from Keswick. • 
 
 At Seatoller, about eight miles from Keswick, 
 a road on the left leads to the black-lead mine, 
 and to Wast Water ; and here the Buttermere 
 road, turning to the right, ascends, by the side of 
 a stream broken into pretty waterfalls, up a steep 
 hill ; from which there are some fine retrospective 
 views of the upper parts of Borrowdale; and 
 Helvellyn soon begins to shew his head over the 
 mountains of Watendlath. In passing the hause, 
 (which rises 800 feet above the level of Derwent 
 Lake,) Honister Crag, in majestic grandeur, is 
 presented to the view; between which and Yew 
 Crag, the^road now sharply descends. Both these 
 rocks are famed for producing roofing slate of the 
 best quality ; and the edges of the road are beau- 
 tifully tufted with Alchemilla alpina. Gatesgarth 
 dale, through which the road now goes, (twice 
 crossing and re-crossing the stream,) is a narrow 
 valley strewed with large blocks of stone, fallen 
 from the rocks above; and solemnly shaded by the 
 lofty Honister, which towers to the height of 1700 
 feet above the valley at its foot. We now re-enter 
 
BUTTERMERE TO KESWICK. 127 
 
 upon the same soft clay-slate rock whicli we parted 
 from at Grange, and the change is soon apparent 
 in the smoothness of the road. 
 
 Opposite to the farm of Gatesgarth, which is 
 two miles from the inn at Buttermere, a shepherd's 
 path leads over the mountain, by a pass called 
 Scarf-gap, and after crossing the narrow dale of 
 Ennerdale, proceeds to Wasdale Head over a 
 second and higher momitain called the Black Sail. 
 The crags on the left of Scarf-gap are, from their 
 form, called Haystacks; and to the right, three 
 adjoining summits are called High-crag, High- 
 stile, and Red-pike. The two first are composed 
 of what some would call a porphyritic greenstone 
 rock, the third of a reddish sienite : and between 
 the second and third lies Burtness Tarn. 
 
 The road, after passing Gatesgarth, touches 
 upon the margin of Buttermere Lake, and a little 
 further upon the left is the neat sheltered cottage 
 of Haseness ; and another mile brings us to the 
 inn at Buttermere, distant from Keswick, by this 
 route, 14 miles. 
 
 Facing the inn, on a rocky site, formerly occu- 
 pied by a miniature chapel, a new one, not much 
 larger, has been erected in 1840, at the expense 
 of a stranger. The Rev. Vaughan Thomas, of 
 Oxford. 
 
 At Buttermere, a boat is usually taken upon 
 Crummock Lake, as well for the views of the 
 scenery as being the most convenient way of see- 
 ing Scale Force. It is an agreeable walk of half 
 
128 BUTTERMERE TO KESWICK. 
 
 a mile to the water, and after a pleasant little 
 voyage of nearly a mile, a walk of three-quarters 
 of a mile reaches to the fall. Travellers may 
 indeed walk from the inn to Scale Force ; but the 
 path being wet and unpleasant, a boat is greatly 
 to be preferred. If the weather be unfavourable 
 for using the boat, a good view of Crummock 
 Lake may be had, by riding a mile and a half on 
 the eastern side, to the rocky point called the Hause. 
 After the necessary refreshment at Buttermere, it 
 is an agreeable ride of 9 miles through the peaceful 
 vale of Newlands, and by Portinscale to Keswick. 
 
 On leaving Buttermere, we encounter a steep 
 hill; but the road, as well as the mountain side, is 
 much smoother than the ascent from Borrowdale. 
 In about a mile and a half we reach the top of the 
 Hause, and suddenly glance upon the further edge 
 of Derwent Water, with the wooded rock of Castle- 
 head, and the mountain Saddleback. The first 
 part of the descent into the vale of Newlands is 
 steep, but the road soon becomes smooth and plea- 
 sant. From the foot of Bawling End we gain a 
 beautiful view over Derwent Lake and the vale of 
 Keswick; and join the Cockermouth road at Por- 
 tinscale. 
 
 Should any objection arise to the road through 
 Newlands, the excursion may be prolonged by the 
 side of Crummock Lake, where Melbreak is a fine 
 object on the opposite shore, and, passing the 
 precipitous Grasmoor, turn to the left to Scale 
 Hill, and thence to Keswick or Cockermouth. 
 
( 129 ) 
 
 DRIVE TO SCALE HILL, AND BUTTERMERE. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 2^ Braithwaite 2^ 
 
 2|- Summit of Whinlatter 5" 
 
 3 Lorton 8 
 
 4 Scale Hill.. 12 
 
 4 Buttermere 16 
 
 9 Through Newlaiids to Keswick 25 
 
 The best way for a carriage to Scale Hill or 
 Buttermere, is by the old road towards Cocker- 
 mouth over the steep mountain Whinlatter, which 
 in the len^'th of two miles rises to the height of 
 800 feet above the valley. After passing the sixth 
 milestone, a road turns to the left, crossing a brook 
 and winding round the end of a hill, where a fine 
 view is presented over the cultivated vale of Lor- 
 ton, and as far as the distant mountains of Kirk- 
 cudbrio-ht. 
 
 At Scale Hill, a boat may be taken on Crum- 
 mock Lake, from whence the mountains surround- 
 ing that and Buttermere, may be seen to great 
 advantage. The party may be landed for a view 
 of Scale Force, and again for a walk to the village 
 of Buttermere, and a view of the lake from a hill 
 near it — returning the same way to Keswick. But 
 should there be auy objection to taking a boat, the 
 carriage may be driven along the side of Crum- 
 mock Lake, to the inn at Buttermere, and the 
 return made through the vale of Newlands, by the 
 road described in the last page; which requires 
 steady horses, as it rises the height of 760 feet in 
 less distance than a mile and a half. 
 
( .130 ) 
 
 KESWICK TO WAST WATER. 
 
 MILKS. MILES. 
 
 8 ToSeatoller 8 
 
 1 Seathwaite , 9 
 
 3 Sty Head 12 
 
 2 Wasdale Head 14 
 
 6 Nether Wasdale, Strands 20 
 
 4 Gosforth 24 
 
 3 Calder Bridge 27 
 
 Tourists, who have no objection to the saddle, 
 will generally be much gratified by an excursion 
 on horseback for two days: by which plan, Bor- 
 rowdale and Wast Water are seen on the first day; 
 and Ennerdale, Lowes Water, Crummock, and 
 Buttermere on the second. The road up Borrow- 
 dale, as far as Seatoller, has already been described; 
 from whence the Wasdale road is on the left to 
 Seathwaite; opposite to which, on the right, lies 
 the famous Black-lead Mine. Carriages may be 
 used as far as Seathwaite, but beyond that, the 
 road becomes a mere track, fit only for horses 
 accustomed to the country. A waterfall presents 
 itself to view on the right; and after crossing a 
 rude bridge, the ascent of the mountain is com- 
 menced by a winding path. On passing a piece of 
 water called Sty Head Tarn, the bold and lofty 
 crag of Great End appears on the left; and 
 beyond it, in towering majesty, the highest of the 
 Pikes, rendered more conspicuous by an object 
 lately erected in the prosecution of the Trigono- 
 metrical Survey. Great Gable is close upon the 
 right; but the grandeur of its form is better ap- 
 
WASDALE HEAD. 131 
 
 predated at a distance. The highest part of the 
 road at Sty Head is 1250 feet above the nearest 
 house; and in the first part of the descent, a mag- 
 nificent view presents itself: the small valley of 
 Wasdale Head appearing as if sunk below the 
 general level, and the sea at a distance seeming 
 to rise in the horizon. The lake of Wast Water 
 is not yet in sight, being hid by a projecting moun- 
 tain on the left, called Lingmell. A steep zigzag 
 track now descends on the side of Gable, down 
 which the horses may be led; as it is neither quite 
 safe nor agreeable to ride. Crags of the most 
 grotesque forms overlook the road, and the side 
 of the hill is profusely strewed with stones, in some 
 of which garnets may be found imbedded; and, in 
 crossing the stream which issues between Gable 
 and Kirkfell, a rock of reddish granite may be 
 seen in the bed of the rivulet. 
 
 Wasdale Head comprises a level area of 400 
 acres of land, divided by stone walls into small 
 irregular fields, which have been cleared with great 
 industry and labour; as appears from the enormous 
 heaps of stones, piled up from the surplus after 
 completing the inclosures. Here six or seven 
 families have their Chapel, of a size proportionate 
 to the number of inhabitants, and in a style accord- 
 ing with the situation; and what Mr. Gray formerly 
 said of Grasmere, may with equal propriety be 
 applied to this vale: "Not a single red tile, no 
 gentleman's flaring house, or garden walls, break 
 in upon the repose of this little unsuspected para- 
 
132 
 
 KESWICK TO WAST WATER. 
 
 dise; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, 
 in its neatest, most becoming attire." 
 
 After passing the inhabited part of the valley, 
 the road approaches the lake, which shews the 
 purity of its water, by the clean blue gravel washed 
 upon its shores. As the road proceeds along the 
 margin of the lake, the screes on the opposite side 
 form a striking object, and the mountains left be- 
 hind should not be forgotten; retrospective views 
 taken at short intervals, will shew the majestic and 
 varied forms theyassurae, on being viewed from 
 different points. After passing Over Beck Bridge 
 at the foot of Bowderdale, and just before entering 
 the gate, the mountain Yewbarrow appears in a 
 fine conical shape, and between the slopes of it 
 and Lingmel, the distance is beautifully filled up 
 
 HEAD OP WAST WATER. 
 
 by Gable; and one of the best views of the lake is 
 a mile further on, from a rocky projecting knoll; 
 or from the grounds of Wasdale Hall. 
 
 It has been suggested, that Wast Water would 
 be more advantageously seen, by reversing the 
 excursion, so that the principal mountain views 
 would be always in prospect on advancing up the 
 
KESWICK TO CALDER BRIDGE. 133 
 
 vale. As far as relates to Wast Water alone, this 
 is certainly true; but in what concerns Borrowdale, 
 Lowes Water, and Crummock, they are seen to 
 more advantage by this route; besides, tourists 
 generally congratulate themselves on having passed 
 over the most difficult part of the road on the 
 first day. 
 
 Towards the lower parts of the lake, the shores 
 are more rocky ; and the composition of the rock 
 is changed, from a kind of greenstone, to a reddish 
 sienite. 
 
 Having left the lake about a mile, a road turns 
 off on the left to Ravenglass; and at the Strands, 
 near the Church of Nether Wasdale, there are 
 two small public houses, at one of which it may 
 be necessary to take some refreshment, after a 
 morning's ride of 20 miles, and none of the best 
 road. 
 
 About four miles further, is the village of Gos- 
 forth, where a tall column, carved with unintel- 
 ligible characters, stands in the cburcb-yard on the 
 right; beyond which the roads from Wasdale, Esk- 
 dale and Ilavenglass become united. The country 
 now becomes more cultivated, and the principal 
 views are towards the sea, with the Isle of Man in 
 the distance; and the mountain rocks are suc- 
 ceeded by a red sandstone. From hence it is 
 nearly three miles of excellent road to Calder 
 Bridge, at which place are two neat small inns, 
 where lodgings are generally taken for the night. 
 Three quarters of a mile above the bridge, li€ the 
 
 N 
 
134 CALDER BRIDGE TO KESWICK. 
 
 remains of Calder Abbey, mentioned at p. 79, to 
 which it is a pleasant walk. The path leads by 
 the side of the river Calder, where its banks are 
 finely covered with wood; and passing the mansion 
 of T. Irwin, Esq., which adjoins the Abbey, the 
 venerable ruin appears to the view. Ponsonby 
 Hall, the residence of E. Stanley, Esq., M. P., is 
 at a short distance from the bridge; and the parish 
 Church stands in the park. Captain Irwin has 
 built and endowed a neat Chapel in the village of 
 Calder Bridge, which stands in the parish of St. 
 Bridget's, Beckermont. 
 
 RETURN FROM CALDER BRIDGE TO KESWICK. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 7 Ennerdale Bridge 7 
 
 3 Lanj pi ugh Cross 10 
 
 4 Lowes Water 14 
 
 2 Scale Hill 16 
 
 4 Buttermere 20 
 
 9 Keswick 29 
 
 From Calder Bridge there is an excellent road 
 of ten miles to Whitehaven; but that usually taken 
 by tourists, on horseback or on foot, inclines more 
 towards the mountains; which, however, on this 
 side present no very interesting features. For 
 some miles the principal prospect is over a culti- 
 vated country to the sea, with the Isle of Man and 
 the Scotch mountains in the distance. 
 
 About three miles from Calder Bridge, the two 
 rival points of Scawfell appear over the neigh- 
 bouring mountains, separated by the yawning 
 
CALDER BRIDGE TO KESWICK. VS5 
 
 chasm of Mickle Door; and two miles further, the 
 town of Egremont is seen through a narrow vale 
 on the left. ^Seven miles from Calder Bridge, a 
 part of Ennerdale Lake appears in sight; and 
 after passing the hamlet of Ennerdale Bridge, in 
 which stand the church and two small public- 
 houses, the lake is observed from the rising ground 
 in another point of view, accompanied by the grand 
 mountain scenery of Ennerdale, amid which the 
 Pillar rises conspicuous. 
 
 Turning to the right, by the public-house at 
 Lamplugh Cross, in a mile further you pass be- 
 tween the hall and the church : the hall is now 
 rebuilt in the shape of a modern farm-house, the 
 only remains of its ancient grandeur being a gate- 
 way, with the inscription, " John Lamplugh, 
 1595." Two miles further, turning to the right 
 at the farm-house called Fangs, and descending 
 the hill, we first come in sight of the small lake of 
 Lowes Water, accompanied by a rich assemblage 
 of mountains. On the left, beyond Low Fell, we 
 have the towering, barren front of Grasmoor, 
 succeeded by Whiteless Pike, Robinson, and Ran- 
 nerdale Knot, beyond Crummock Lake. On the 
 right lie Burnbank and Carling Knot; in front, 
 Melbreak rises in an aspiring cone, flanked by 
 High Stile and Red Pike on one hand, and the 
 peaked, perpendicular front of Honister Crag on 
 the other. Between the last and Rannerdale 
 Knot is just seen a part of the mountain called 
 Hay Stacks, near Stonethwaite, in Borrowdale; 
 
136 
 
 CALDER BRIDGE TO KESWICK. 
 
 at a gate opening to the common, the top of the 
 Pillar may be seen to the right of Red Pike. 
 Soon after passing this lake, that of Crummock 
 presents itself in one of its best combinations : the 
 mountains seeming to have changed places since 
 we viewed them on Lowes Water. Then crossing 
 the river Cocker, you shortly arrive at Scale Hill, 
 distant from Calder Bridge rather more than 16 
 miles. 
 
 If Buttermere has not been previously visited, a 
 boat may be taken upon Crummock Lake, which, 
 with a walk from the edge of the water to Scale 
 Force, will make a pleasing variety. In the mean- 
 time the horses may meet the party at Butter- 
 mere, and the return to Keswick be made through 
 Newlands — making this day's journey nearly 30 
 miles. Those who have seen Buttermere, may 
 save above a mile, by taking the carriage road 
 from Scale Hill: along which there is a pleasant 
 view of the vale of Lorton; and also a fine view 
 of the vale of Keswick in descending the hill from 
 Whinlatter. Those who think this circuit too 
 much for two days, may extend it to three, by 
 staying one night at Nether Wasdale, and another 
 at Scale Hill. 
 
 To visit Wast Water in a carriage from Kes- 
 wick, it will be necessary to go by Scale Hill, 
 Lowes Water, and Lamplugh, and by Ennerdale 
 Bridge and over Cold Fell, or by Egremont, to 
 Calder Bridge; thence to the Strands and Wast 
 Water. At Strands a boat may be procured; and, 
 
DRIVE ROUND BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. 137 
 
 if desired, Scawfell Pike may be ascended: and 
 after stopping one or two nights at Calder Bridge, 
 the return may be by Egremont, Cleator, and 
 Lamplugh, or by Whitehaven. 
 
 DRIVE ROUND BASSENTHWAITE LAKE. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 8 Peel-Wyke 8 
 
 1 Ouse Bridge 9 
 
 J Castle Inn 10 
 
 3 Bassenthwaite Sandbed 13 
 
 5 Keswick 18 
 
 This being thought less interesting than most 
 of the other lakes, is often reserved to the last; 
 but some have remarked that it ought to be visited 
 first, or before the imagination became too much 
 elated by the more prominent features of the other 
 lakes. However, tourists who prefer an easy jour- 
 ney, will find objects to please, in a perambulation 
 of 18 miles round this lake. On the western side 
 the road is much improved, and rendered very 
 commodious for travelling ; it is in some parts 
 enclosed in woods, in others opening to excellent 
 views. There is a public-house at Peel-Wyke on 
 the western side, another at Castle Inn on the 
 eastern. The road at the foot of the lake is much 
 encumbered by trees; but by walking a few paces 
 through a gate, nearly opposite Armathwaite Hall, 
 the prospect from the margin of the lake is ex- 
 tensive; and the botanist may perhaps find some- 
 thing worth his notice. On the eastern side, the 
 traveller would sometimes wish for a nearer ap- 
 proach to the lake; but few would think themselves 
 n2 
 
138 
 
 KESWICK TO ULLSWATER. 
 
 repaid for the trouble of visiting West's stations 
 on the promontories of Broadness and Scarness. 
 
 Those who are not inclined to make the whole 
 circuit of the lake, may take a ride by the foot of 
 Skiddaw, to a station a little above the road upon 
 an open common, at the distance of five miles from 
 Keswick. Here the principal part of the lake 
 may be seen, with the three bold promontories of 
 Bowness, Broadness, and Scarness, and in return- 
 ing (if on horseback or on foot) take the upper 
 road, by Millbeck, Applethwaite, and Ormathwaite, 
 from whence some of the best views of Derwent 
 Lake and its environs will be found. From 
 Applethwaite, or Ormathwaite, they may take the 
 nearest road to Keswick, or proceed by an occu- 
 pation way along the side of Latrigg, and enter 
 the town by the Penrith road. 
 
 KESWICK TO ULLSWATER. 
 
 MILES. MILES. 
 
 8 Moor End 8 
 
 7 Gowbarrow Park 15 
 
 5 Patterdale 20 
 
 Return the same way; or 
 10 Pooley Bridge 30 
 
 6 Penrith 36 
 
 Ullswater may be visited from Keswick on 
 horseback or on foot; leaving the Penrith road at 
 the third mile-stone, crossing the vale of Wan- 
 thwaite, and passing over a bleak mountain side 
 to Matterdale. Carriages have formerly been 
 obliged to continue on the turnpike road to 
 Beckses, eleven miles; but a new road is now con- 
 structed on the western side of Mell Fell, which 
 
CONCLUSION. 13& 
 
 shortens the distance two miles. After leaving' 
 St. John's Vale and the mountain Saddleback be- 
 hind, these roads are equally uninteresting, till 
 they unite at Dockray; but after entering Gow- 
 barrow Park, the prospect of Ullswater is pre- 
 sented in one of its richest points of view ; 
 exhibiting the upper reach of the lake, with its 
 three islands and delightful bays. Place Fell in 
 front, rising immediately from the water's edge to 
 the heio-ht of 1160 feet, and to the right a vast 
 assemblao^e of mountains; among which Scandale 
 Fell and Saint Sunday Crag rise conspicuous. 
 Airey Force and Lyulph's Tower lie a little to the 
 left, and it is then between four and five miles of 
 delightful road to the inn at Patterdale, or six to 
 Pooley Bridge. It has been customary for car- 
 riages from Keswick to be taken by Dacre to 
 Pooley Bridge; but a preferable route is to turn 
 off just beyond Penruddock, and cross the valley 
 to Bennet Head; by which a much earlier and 
 better view of Ullswater is obtained before reach- 
 ing the inn. 
 
 An attempt to enumerate all the permutations 
 that might be made in these excursions; or all the 
 pleasing points, from which the varied scenery of 
 this interesting region might be viewed; would be 
 an endless, and, in fact, an useless task. Persons 
 who delight in exploring a country, need only be 
 made acquainted with the outlines: they will feel 
 more pleasure in finding out the rest. 
 
HO APPENDIX. 
 
 As an Appendix to these directions, it may not 
 be irrelevant to mention some objects which may 
 be seen on the way, to and from the lakes, by dif- 
 ferent lines of road ; for which the author is partly 
 indebted to the Penny Magazine. 
 
 Returning from the lakes, by way of Kendal 
 towards Leeds, the tourist crosses the vale of 
 Lune, at Kirkby Lonsdale. Near Ingleton, the 
 mountain Ingleborough, the waterfall of Thornton 
 Force, and the Slate Quarries, are interesting to 
 the geologist as well as to the lover of the pic- 
 turesque: also the caves of Yordas and Weather- 
 cote, with others of smaller note; at the foot of 
 a steep hill, a mile before reaching Settle, by the 
 side of the road, is the celebrated ebbing and flow- 
 ing well of Giggleswick. Four miles to the east 
 of Settle, lie Malham Cove and Gordale Scar, 
 two of the most remarkable spots in England. 
 Wharfdale, still more to the east, is beautiful from 
 its source in the moors, to Otley and Harewood, 
 a few miles from Leeds. The grounds of Bolton 
 Abbey are the gem of this valley. 
 
 From Penrith, the eastern road by Stainmoor 
 and Leeminglane skirts a lovely country. There 
 is some pretty scenery between Penrith and Ap- 
 pleby, and the wild road over Stainmoor is strik- 
 ing and pleasant on a fine day. From Bowes, 
 Barnard Castle may be visited; and Teesdale, one 
 of the finest Yorkshire valleys, with its two water- 
 falls. High Force and Cauldron Snout; also Winch 
 
APPENDIX. 141 
 
 Bridge, one of the first attempts at a bridge of 
 suspension. 
 
 At Greta Bridge, on the high road, lies the 
 well-known scenery of Rokeby. At Catterick 
 Bridge the Swale is crossed, about three miles be- 
 low Richmond. Swaledale has some pretty scenery, 
 but is inferior to Wensleydale, the next valley 
 to the south, which is traversed by the Ure, and 
 extends westward nearly to Ingleborough. Har~ 
 draw Scar, near Hawes, Aysgarth Force, near 
 Askrigg, and Jeveraux Abbey are the most re- 
 markable objects in it. Lower down, on the banks 
 of the Ure, near Ripon, stands Fountains Abbey, 
 which needs no praise. Ripon Minster is a fine 
 specimen of our early ecclesiastical architecture- 
 From Ripon there is a double communication with 
 the south, either by Boroughbridge and the York 
 road; or by Harrogate, Harewood, and Leeds. 
 Knaresborough possesses some objects of curiosity, 
 but scarcely sufficient to lead the tourist so far out 
 of his way. 
 
 A party from Kendal might visit the scenery of 
 Wensleydale by going first to Sedbergh, and thence 
 through the vale of Garsdale to Hawes; or having 
 proceeded as far as Ingleton, after viewing the 
 natural curiosities in that neighbourhood, may go 
 from thence to Askrigg, and there fall into the 
 route above described. 
 
BOTANICAL NOTICES. 
 
 The author will not here attempt a systematic 
 arrangement of the botany of the district, nor even 
 an enumeration of all the rare plants that may be 
 met with, in a region possessing such variety of 
 soil and situation — but merely, a brief notice of 
 some of those which not unfrequently present them- 
 selves to the observation of the tourist, without 
 going far out of his way to seek them. 
 
 In shallow parts of Lakes, where the bottom is 
 of peat, the Sci?yus lacustris and Arundo Phrag- 
 mUis* Bull-Rush and Common Reed, rear their 
 heads on high above the water; the leaves and 
 flowers of the Nymph<B alba and Nupliar luiea, 
 the White and the Yellow Water-Lily, float upon 
 the surface; and the bottom is rendered verdant by 
 a commixture of Lobelia Dortamanna^ Littorella 
 lacustris, and Isoetes lacustris. The Lobelia 
 spreads a tuft of radical leaves upon the bottom, 
 and in July shoots up its spike of delicate pale 
 flowers above the water; the Littorella puts forth 
 its long and slender stamina most freely, when in 
 
 The Arundo Phragmitis, said by authors to blossom in July, 
 does not blow here before the latter end of September. 
 
BOTANICAL NOTICES. 143 
 
 a dry summer it is left uncovered upon the shore ; 
 and the Isoefes, being one of the plants which per- 
 fect their fructification under water, has its leaves 
 pulled up by water-fowl, in the winter season, to 
 extract the seeds which lie concealed in their bases. 
 
 Several species of Potamogeion, Pond-weed, 
 grow in the lakes. Myriophyllum spicatum and 
 Sium innndatum inhabit slow streams and shallow 
 parts of lakes. Chara Jiexilis grows in shallow, 
 and C. vulgaris in deeper parts of Derwent Lake. 
 Sparganiurn ramosum^ in ditches; ^S*. natans, in 
 Derwent Lake : both of these, with ^S*. simplex, 
 may be found in Naddle-beck, near Keswick. 
 Typha latifoUa* also grows at the last-mentioned 
 place; T. angustifolia, in Rydal Water. 
 
 The spongy shores of the lakes and pools are 
 margined with Equiseium limosum ; Hippuris 
 vulgaris grows in ditches near Cartmel Well ; 
 Cladium Mariscus, on the edge of Cunswick 
 Tarn, near Kendal; Ranunculus aqualilis, Water 
 Crowfoot, in the rivers Derwent, Kent, and Ea- 
 mont; CEnanihe crocata, in the river Brathay; 
 Myosotis palusbHs, Water Scorpion-grass, or 
 Forget-me-not, and Alisma plantago, Water- 
 Plantain, are common ; Naslurtium officinale^ 
 Water-cress, in springs and ditches, in calcare- 
 ous soils, but has been rare among the lakes till 
 increased by planting. 
 
 * This differs from the description given, by Sir J. E. Smith, 
 in the stem being leafy all the way up. It is, I believe, the 
 nngusU/olia that has its leaves all from the bottom. 
 
144 
 
 BOTANICAL NOTICES. 
 
 Meadows subject to lake floods are covered 
 ■with the various species of Carex, along with the 
 Eriop/wrvm angustifoUum, many-headed Cotton- 
 grass; Eriophorum vaginatuin, the single-headed 
 Cotton-grass, on the boggy parts of mountains, is 
 called Moss-crops, and is the early spring food of 
 sheep; Menyanthes trifoliata, Buckbean, Cowiar^w 
 falustre^ Juncus Jiliformis, and Juncus uliginosus^ 
 on the isthmus near Derwent Lake; the last 
 named, when on shore, is a low creeping plant, 
 but, rooted under water, it shoots up leaves like 
 hairs to the length of a foot or more. 
 
 Saxifraga aizoides^ in watery places on Barrow 
 Side, near Keswick; S.granulata, in drier ground 
 Dear the same place, and at Mayburgh; S. hyp-^ 
 noides, near Thirlmere, Kirkstone, and Long 
 Sleddale; S. stel/aris, near the summits of Skid- 
 daw and Helvellyn; S. tridacfylifes, at Keswick. 
 Saxifraga ojjpositifoHu has been observed by H. 
 C. Watson, Esq., near Great End Crag, in Bor- 
 rowdale. Chrysospleniurn opposib'folumt. Golden 
 Saxifrage, is common on the margin of springs. 
 
 Cochlearia officinalis, Scurvy-grass, is abundant 
 in springs on both sides of Helvellyn, but rarely 
 found in other parts of the lake district. Par- 
 nassia pahistris, Grass of Parnassus, and Nar- 
 thecium Ossifragum, Bog Asphodel, in moist 
 elevated pastures on the way to Skiddaw. Pru 
 Ttnula farinosa. Bird's-eye, in similar situations, 
 in Loughrigg, near Bampton, Hesket Newmarket, 
 and Cunswick Tarn. Pinguicula vulgaris. But* 
 
BOTANICAL NOTICES. 145. 
 
 tevwoTt, and. Drosera 7^oiimdifolia, Sun-dew, com- 
 mon in shallow bogs; D. longijolia is more rare, 
 but found in Borrow dale, and Ullock Moss, where 
 the bog is deeper. 
 
 Vacciniinn Oxycoccos, Cran-berry, grows in 
 poor boggy ground, sparingly near Rydal Water, 
 in Thornthwaite, and more plentifully in Mun- 
 grisdale; V. Myrtillus, Bilberry, Whortle-berry, 
 or Blea-berry, is common in rocky woods and on 
 mountain sides, near Derwent Lake and on Skid- 
 daw Dod; V, Vitis id<sa. Red Whortle-berry or 
 Cow-berry, inhabits loftier situations, and retains 
 its fruit longer: it grows on the summit of Skiddaw, 
 but is more fruitful on the mountains between 
 Derwent and Crummock Lakes. Empeti-uni ni- 
 grum grows at a great altitude upon mountains, 
 in a moist soil; its berries are said to be the food 
 of grouse. Arbutus U'va-ursi, found by Mr. 
 Watson on the west side of Grasmoor, and Silene 
 acaulis near Great-end Crag: the last is also found 
 on Helvellyn and Fairfield. 
 
 Large tracts of peaty moors are covered with 
 Calluna vulgaris, common Ling, which affords 
 shelter for grouse; in August, its blossoms give 
 the mountains a rich purple hue, and it is the 
 source from which bees obtain a great portion of 
 their honey : a variety is sometimes observed with 
 white flowers. Erica cinerea grows in places 
 more rocky, and remains longer in blossom; E. 
 Tetralix, in Ullock Moss and Gosforth. Statice 
 Armeria, Thrift, or Sea Gilliflower, in salt 
 
 o 
 
146 BOTANICAL KOTICES. 
 
 marshes, and near the top of Scawfell. Rhodiola 
 rosea, and Oxyria reniformis, in the rocks of Hel- 
 Tellyn, Scawfell, Raven Scar, and Ashness Gill. 
 
 Ulex europaus, the large early flowerinp^ Furze 
 or Whin, is too common in the neighbourhood of 
 Keswick; Ulex nanus, a smaller kind, blossoming 
 in autumn, is more prevalent between Pooley 
 Bridge and Askham, in Buttermere, and Wasdale; 
 at Bolton Wood, near Gosforth, intermixed with 
 the large blossomed heath, it gives an appearance 
 of richness to land otherwise barren. Juniperus 
 communis, the common Juniper, erroneously called 
 Savin, grows on the mountain between Wythburn 
 and Borrowdale, on Place Fell, Loughrigg Fell, 
 at a great altitude upon Grisedale Pike, and most 
 plentifully in the pastures between Windermere 
 and Coniston. Salix herbacea, the least Willow, 
 on the summit of Skiddaw, on Saddleback, Hel- 
 vellyn, and the mountains between Derwent and 
 Crummock Lake. Alchemilla alpina, Cinquefoil 
 Lady's Mantle, on the mountain between Bor- 
 rowdale and Buttermere, and at the foot of Wan- 
 thwaite Crags. 
 
 Orchis bifolia, O. maculata, and O. conopsea, one 
 to two miles from Keswick, on the Penrith road; the 
 last on Hartley Hill, Buttermere. Orchis mascula, 
 Listera Ovata, and L. Nidus-Avis, under Wallow 
 Crag; L. Cordata, near Helvellyn. Erythrcea 
 Centaurium, Gentiana campestris, Cynoglossum 
 officinale, Erodium. cicutarium, and Geranium 
 sanguineum, near Flimby; Agrimonia Eupato- 
 
BOTANICAL NOTICES. 14T 
 
 Tia^ Campanula latifolia. Geranium sylvaticuTn 
 and G.pratense^ Lysimachia vulgaris, Rosa cinna- 
 momia, and Senecio saracenicus, in Howray, 
 near Keswick; Campanula glomerata, nQax UUs- 
 water. Meum alhamanlicum, Spignel, Bristovr 
 Hills, near Keswick; Peucedanum Ostruthium, 
 in Legberthwaite ; Lepidium hirtum. Crow Park, 
 near Keswick; Thalictrum majus? and Genista 
 tinctoria, at the foot of Bassenthwaite. 
 
 Fimpinella Saxifraga, Burnet Saxifrage, and 
 Sanguisorha officmalis, Great Burnet, are com- 
 mon in the fields; Poterium Sanguisorha, Salad 
 Burnet, on Kirkhead in Cartmel, and on Kendal 
 Fell; Primula Veris, Cowslip, is common in cal- 
 careous soils, but rarely found among the lakes. 
 Chrysanthemum segetum, the Yellow Corn Mari- 
 gold, was formerly so troublesome in some corn 
 fields, that the land infested with it was considered 
 inferior in value; but by the improved system of 
 husbandry it is nearly eradicated. Chrysanthemum 
 Leiccanthemum, the Great Daisy, in grass lands, 
 is increasing in an extraordinary manner in many 
 parts of the lake district : Pyrethrum inodorum is 
 a troublesome weed near the sea coast. 
 
 When land has been exhausted by continuing 
 too long under tillage, it is subject to be overrun 
 by Potentilla anserina. White Tansey or Silver- 
 weed, Tussilago Farfara, Colt's-foot, and Holcus 
 mollis; which last appears to be the natural Couch- 
 grass or Twitch of the district; Triticum repensis 
 sometimes introduced among other seeds. 
 
148 BOTANICAL NOTICES. 
 
 The rare Pyrola secunda and P. media?* have 
 been found among the rocks near Keswick; P. 
 minor? Impatiens Noli-me-tangere, Hypericum 
 AndroscEmum, and Arum inaculatum^ near Amble- 
 side; Eupatorium, caiinabinum, near Low Wood 
 Inn, and in Wasdale ; Bidens tripartita, near 
 Keswick. Convallaria majalis, Lily of the Valley, 
 on an island in Windermere, and near Skelwith 
 Force ; Anchusa sempervirens, at Bowness and 
 Long Sleddale; Paris quadrifolia. One-berry, on 
 the turnpike side near Bannerigg, in a lane between 
 Elleray and Bowness, and in Lowther woods. 
 Tamils communis, Bryony or Wild Vine, with its 
 red berries, ornaments the hedges near Winder- 
 mere lake, but is rarely found further north. Vicia 
 sylvatica, on the banks of the Lune, and Saponaria 
 ■officinalis under the bridge at Kirkby Lonsdale; 
 Origanum vulgare, at Kirkby Lonsdale, Humphrey 
 Head, and Mayburgh; Pai^ietaria officinalis. Wall 
 Pelitory, near Cartmel Well, and on the walls of 
 Cartmel Church. Meconopsis cambrica. Yellow 
 Poppy, in Long Sleddale ; Glaucium luteimi, 
 Yellow Horned-poppy, on the coast near Mary- 
 port and Flookburgh; Hyoscyarnus niger. Hen- 
 bane, near the last place; Atropa Beladonna has 
 also been found there, and about Furness Abbey. 
 Geranium pratense, Malva moschata, and Campa- 
 nula latifolia, about Kirkby Lonsdale. 
 
 * A note of interrogation signifies some doubt as to the 
 species. 
 
BOTANICAL NOTICES. 149 
 
 Many of the plants inhabiting woody ground 
 may be found in Castlehead Wood, near Keswick; 
 such are Anemone nemorosa, Asperula odorata, 
 Betonica officinalis^ Circcea lutetiana, Convallaria 
 multiffora, Corydalis claviculata, Digitalis pur- 
 purea, Epilohium montanum. Erysimum Alliaria^ 
 Geranium lucidum, G. robertianum, Geum ur- 
 hanum, Hyacinthus non scriptus, Hypericum 
 pulchrum, H, perforatum, Lapsana communis. 
 Lychnis dioica, Lysimachia Nemorum, Melampy- 
 vum, pratense, Mercurialis perennis, Orobus tu- 
 berosus, Oxalis acetosella, Prenanthes muralis. 
 Primula vulgar is, Sanicula europcBa, Scorphularia 
 nodosa, Stellaria holostea, S.graminea, Tormentilla 
 officinalis, Teucrium Scorodonia, Veronica Cha- 
 mcEdrys, and V. officinalis. 
 
 Upon the rocky summit grow Alchemilla arven- 
 •sis, Capsella Bursa-pastoris, Cerastium vulgatum, 
 C. viscosum, Draba verna, Galium cruciaium, 
 G. verum Geranium dissectum, G. molle, Jasione 
 montanum, Myosostis versicolor,* Rosa spinosis- 
 sima, Rumeos Acetosa, R, Acetosella, Sedum Tele- 
 phium, S. Anglicum,'\ Sisymbrium thalianum, 
 Teesdalia nudicaulis, Thymus Serpyllum, Veron- 
 ica arvensis, V. serpyllifolia. 
 
 In the moist ground at its foot: Angelica syU 
 vestris, Chrysosplenium oppositifolium, Epilobium 
 tetragonum, Equisetum limosum, Spircea, Ulma- 
 ria, and Valeriana officinalis, 
 
 * Blossom yellow at first, and turning blue, 
 f Introduced from Loughrigg Fell in 1833. 
 
 o2 
 
150 
 
 BOTANICAL NOTICES. 
 
 Between the road to Lowdore and the edge of 
 Derwent lake: Jchillcea Millefolium, A. Piarmica, 
 Antirrhinum Linaria, Cardamine amara^ CirccBa 
 alpina, Galium boreale, Hydrocotyle vulgaris, Hy- 
 pericum Elodes, Lythrum salicaria, Myrica, Gale, 
 Lotus Corniculaius, Nartkecium ossifragum, 
 (Enanthe crocata, * Orchis mascula, 0. maculata, 
 Parnassia palustris, Silene maritima, Thalictrnm 
 ma jus? Trollius europtjBus, Vaccinium Myrtillus, 
 V. Oxycoccos, Valeriana dioica, and Valeriana 
 officinalis. 
 
 Ullock Moss, near Keswick, produces CaUuna 
 "vulgaris, Comarum palustre, Drosera rotundifolia, 
 D. longifolia, Eleocharis ccsspitosa, Eriophorum 
 nngustifolium, E. vaginatum. Erica T-etralix, 
 Hypericum Elodes, Melica ccerulea, Myrica Gale, 
 Osmunda regalis, Rharanus Frangula, Rhynchos- 
 jpora alha, Scutellaria galericulata, Utricularia 
 minor, and Veronica scutellata. 
 
 In a bog behind the inn at Patterdale may be 
 found, Anagallis tenella, Partiassia palustris, 
 Drosera rotundifolia, Pinguicula vulgaris, Meny- 
 anthes trifoliata, and Sphagnum p)alustris. 
 
 Near a place called Scroggs, in Loughrigg, 
 and chiefly in a small pasture called the Old 
 Close, among other more common plants, may be 
 found the following: Alchemilla vulgaris, Aquilegia 
 vulgaris, Anagallis tenella, Arimi maculaium, 
 Chrysosplenium oppositifolium, Circcea httetiana, 
 
 * Without yellow juice, perhaps the apiifoUa. 
 
BOTANICAL NOTICES. 151 
 
 Drosera rotundifolia^ Eriophorum angustifolium? 
 Geum urbanum, Hydroccdyle vulgaris, Hypericum 
 Androscemiim, H. pulchrum^ H. quadrangulum, 
 Listera ovata^ Lysiinachia oiemorum^ Linum ca- 
 tharticum, Narthecium ossifragum, Orchis bi folia, 
 O. conopsea, O. mascula, O. maculata, Osmuiida 
 regalis, Oxalis Acetosella, Primula farinosa, Par- 
 nassia pahistris, Pedicularispalustris, P. sylvatica, 
 Pimpinella saxifraga, Pinguicula vulgaris. Poly- 
 podium Phegopteris, Saxifraga aizoides, Sedum 
 anglicum, S. Telcp/iium, Tormentilla officinalis, 
 Teucrium Scorodonia, and Thymus Serpyllum. 
 
 Many species of lichens may be found upon the 
 rocks, and on the trees; mosses upon the moun- 
 tains and heaths; and ferns, upon the commons 
 and in the woods. Lycopodium clavatum. Club- 
 moss, Stag's-horn-moss, Fox-feet, or Wolf's-claw, 
 ^rows upon dry mountains not very high; L. al- 
 pinum, in more lofty; L. Selago, in lofty and 
 more moist places, and L. Selagmoides by the 
 edges of rills. 
 
 The sides of mountains with a dry soil are 
 clothed to a moderate elevation with Pteris aqui- 
 lina. Brackens, which, by their changing in Sep- 
 tember and October from a bright to an olive 
 green, and afterwards to a russet brown, contri- 
 bute to that autumnal colouring which is so much 
 admired. Cryp)togramma crispa. Stone fern, in- 
 habits higher and more rocky situations. 
 
 On the road between Kendal and Bowness are 
 found, Asjndiiim Filix-mas, Asplenium Adiantum- 
 
152 BOTANICAL NOTICES. 
 
 nigrum^ A. Filix-ffjemma, A. Trichomanes, Cis- 
 ioptris fragilis, Cryptogramma crispa, Polypodium 
 Dryopteris, P. vulgaris, and Pteris aquilina. 
 
 Scolopendrium vulgar e, in rents in limestone 
 rocks in Westmorland, and at Calder Bridge. 
 Grammitis Ceterach, Asplenium ruta-muraria, 
 and A. Trichomanes, on Troutbeck Bridge; A. 
 viride, in Ashness Gill; A. ruta-muraria, at Lair- 
 beck, and Hill-top, near K.eQ'wick', Hymenophyllum 
 Wilsoni, at foot of Lowdore fall, at Dungeon 
 Gill, and Scale Force; Polypodium Phegopteris, 
 at Scale Force, Wythburn, and Patterdale; Os- 
 munda regalis, at Skelwith, and in the Cass, near 
 Keswick. 
 
 In a walk round Castlehead and Cockshot, near 
 Keswick, may be seen Polypodium vulgaris, P. 
 Dryopteris, Aspidium Filix-mas, A. Oreopteris, 
 A. dilatatum, Asplenium. Adiantum-nigrum, A. 
 Filioo-fcEmina, A. Trichomanes, and Blechnum 
 horeale; and on Barrow Common, Botrychium, 
 Lunaria, and Ophioglossum vulgatum, have some- 
 times been found. 
 
 Rhamnus frangula, Berry-bearing Alder, in 
 Graithwaite woods, near Rydal Water, in Cock- 
 shot Wood, and the Cass, near Keswick ; Li~ 
 gustrum vulgare. Privet, and Cratcegus Aria, 
 White-beam, grow on the rocks at Humphrey 
 Head ; Euonymus europcsus, on Barrow-side, 
 near Lowdore. 
 
 The Oak, Ash, and Birch are the principal 
 indigenous forest trees. Sycamores have formerly 
 
BOTANICAL NOTICES. 153 
 
 been planted round homesteads, and make an ex- 
 cellent shelter ; withstanding cold blasts and 
 sea breezes better than almost any other tree. 
 Extensive plantations of Larches have been made 
 within the last fifty years, but do not add much 
 beauty to the country; and they are gradually 
 giving way to the monarch of the forest, the Eng- 
 lish Oak. The Hawthorn attains a great size on 
 the banks of Ullswater ; much of the underwood is 
 of Halel, producing, especially in Borrowdale, 
 large quantities of nuts; which, however, of late 
 years, probably on account of the coldness of the 
 spring seasons, have been less plentiful than for- 
 merly. 
 
 Stunted Yew trees creep up the perpendicular 
 escarpments of the limestone rocks near Humphrey 
 Heady Witherslack, and Underbarrow. 
 
 " But worthier still of note 
 
 Are those fraternal four of Borrowdale, 
 Join'd in one solemn and capacious grove." 
 
 The bole of one of these, near the Black-lead 
 mine, is twenty feet in circumference, and its 
 branches cover an area of twenty yards diameter : 
 
 '^ Produced too slowly ever to decay. 
 Of form and aspect too magnificent 
 To be destroyed." 
 
 One in Lorton Vale is still more umbrageous, 
 
 " Which to this day stands single in the midst 
 Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore." 
 
 Wordsworth, 
 
THE GEOLOGY 
 
 LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 When this essay was first published, in 1820, the 
 structure of the mountainous district of Cumber- 
 land, Westmorland, and Lancashire, was but little 
 understood ; scientific travellers had contented 
 themselves with procuring specimens of the dif- 
 ferent rocks, without taking time to become ac- 
 quainted with their relative position. Since that 
 time, the subject has received more attention 
 from persons conversant with geological inquiries: 
 especially from the distinguished Professor Sedg- 
 wick, who, in 1824 and following years, subjected 
 this district to his untiring examination. In his 
 address to the Geological Society, Feb. 18th, 1831, 
 the Rev. Professor deigned to compliment the 
 author as being the first to point out that "the 
 greater part of the central region of the Lake 
 Mountains is occupied by three distinct groups 
 of stratified rocks of a slaty texture." 
 
 Notwithstanding all that may have been said or 
 written upon the subject, the following remarks 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 155 
 
 may still be acceptable to such as require only a 
 general outline; and to those who feel disposed to 
 explore for themselves, the facts here stated may 
 be useful, in directing them more readily to the 
 objects of their research. 
 
 In entering upon a geological description of this 
 district, the granite, occupying the lowest place 
 in the known series of rocks, forms a convenient 
 starting place, from whence it seems most natural, 
 though contrary to the practice of modern geolo- 
 gists, to proceed in the ascending order. 
 
 What has been the condition of granite before 
 the deposition of the matter of incumbent rocks, 
 may be left to conjecture; that portions of it have 
 been subsequently protruded through them, is now 
 generally admitted. It does not, however, in this 
 district, reach the summit of any of the principal 
 mountains; it is exposed to view in some of their 
 ravines, and in places where it forms hills or 
 ridges, they are of moderate elevation. 
 
 A rock of granite, composed of quartz, white 
 felspar, and black mica, may be seen denudated 
 in the bed of the river Caldew, on the north-east 
 side of Skiddaw; and in a branch of the river 
 Greta, between Skiddaw and Saddleback, about 
 1400 feet above the level of the sea. It is tra- 
 versed in various directions by veins of quartz ; in 
 some of which, molybdena, apatite, tungsten, wolfr 
 ram, and other minerals have been found. 
 
 A variety of granite with reddish felspar, and 
 which, from a deficiency of mica, has sometimes 
 
156 
 
 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 been called sienite, forms two inferior mountain 
 ridges, called Irton Fell and Muncaster Fell: it 
 extends to some distance on both sides of the river 
 Esk, and may be seen shooting up in places, almost 
 as far as Bootle, and also at Wasdale Head. At 
 Netherwasdale it becomes a finer grained sienite, 
 in which form it extends through the mountains 
 quite across Ennerdale, as far as Scale Force, and 
 to the side of Buttermere Lake. It contains veins 
 of red hematite and micaceous iron ore. Another 
 variety of granite with reddish felspar in large 
 crystallized masses, is found on Shap Fells, and 
 may be observed in situ on the road side near 
 Wasdale Bridge, about four miles south of Shap. 
 
 Carrock Fell consists of a rock generally classed 
 with the sienites, but varying in appearance in dif- 
 ferent parts of the mountain. It contains (besides 
 the usual ingredients of quartz and felspar) hy- 
 persthene and magnetic or titaniferous iron ore in 
 various proportions. Near this, a considerable 
 quantity of lead ore and some copper has been 
 procured : the lead, being smelted and refined, 
 yields a good portion of silver. 
 
 A reddish porphyritic rock occurs on both sides 
 of St. John's Vale, from two to three miles east 
 of Keswick ; and a vein or dyke apparently related 
 to the same, but far more beautiful, (being com- 
 posed of crystals of quartz and bright red felspar, 
 imbedded in a brownish red compact felspar,) is 
 found on Armboth Fell, and is partially exposed 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 157 
 
 on the Ambleside road, near the seven mile stone 
 from Keswick. 
 
 The rocks constituting the greatest bulk of the 
 Lake Mountains have been commonly described 
 under the general appellation of slate, although 
 many of them shew no disposition to the slaty 
 cleavage. They may be divided into three groups, 
 which have been, in a former edition, called the 
 Clayslate, Greenstone, and Greywacke divisions ; 
 the last of which seems now to belong to, or be in- 
 cluded in, what Mr. Murchison calls the Silurian 
 System. 
 
 Of these divisions, the first, or Clayslate, being 
 lowest in the series, forms Skiddaw, Saddleback, 
 Grasmoor, and Grisedale Pike, with the mountains 
 of Thornthwaite and Newlands ; it extends across 
 Crummock Lake, and by the foot of Ennerdale, 
 as far as Dent Hill ; and after being lost for seve- 
 ral miles, it is elevated again at Black Comb. 
 
 If we regard the granite of Skiddaw as a nu- 
 cleus upon which these rocks are deposited in 
 mantle-shaped strata, that which reposes imme- 
 diately upon it is commonly called gneiss; but 
 being rather more slaty, and less granular, than 
 the gneiss of some other countries, it is sometimes 
 called mica slate. More distant from the granite, 
 the quantity of mica is diminished, and the slate 
 is marked with darker coloured spots; it is then 
 provincially called Whintin, and is quarried for 
 flooring-flags and other useful purposes. This 
 again is succeeded by a slate of a softer kind, in 
 p 
 
158 GEOLOGY OF THE Liii.KE DISTRICT. 
 
 which crystals of chiastolite are plentifully im- 
 bedded : as we approach the summit of Skiddaw, 
 these crystals gradually disappear, and it there be- 
 comes a more homogeneous clayslate. 
 
 These rocks are of a blackish colour, and divide 
 by natural partings into slates of various thickness, 
 which are sometimes curiously bent and waved: 
 when these partings are very numerous, though 
 indistinct at first, they open by exposure to the 
 weather, and in time it becomes shivered into thin 
 flakes, which lessens its value as a roofing slate. 
 In some places, the thin laminae alternate with 
 others of a few inches in thickness; which are 
 harder, and of a lighter colour, containing more 
 siliceous matter; and, from the sonorous quality of 
 some of those slates, a set reduced to a musical 
 scale has been for half a century exhibited at 
 Crosthwaite's Museum, in Keswick. More re- 
 cently, sets, extended to a greater compass, have 
 been exhibited in London, Liverpool, and other 
 places with great success. 
 
 Rocks of this description have sometimes been 
 represented as stratified, and the strata parallel to 
 the slaty cleavage; but this proposition should not 
 be received without some hesitation. If it be sup- 
 posed that these varieties of rock, between which 
 there is no natural parting, have been deposited in 
 the order in which they have been mentioned; 
 then, the strata may be said to be mantle-shaped 
 round the granitic nucleus; only interrupted in 
 continuity by the anomalous rocks of Carrock; 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 1S9 
 
 but if it be assumed that the stratification follows 
 the slaty cleavage, then it may be said to have its 
 bearing tending towards the north-east and south- 
 west; dipping generally at a high angle to the 
 south-east, and presenting the edges of its laminae 
 to the surface of the granite, from the proximity 
 of which the nature and appearance of the rock 
 must be presumed to be altered. 
 
 The rocks belonging to this division do not ef- 
 fervesce with acids; they contain no calcareous 
 spar, except a little in some of the veins. They 
 are sometimes intersected by dykes of a harder 
 kind of rock, apparently of the nature of trap or 
 greenstone. Veins of lead ore occur in several 
 places; and have been worked between Skiddaw 
 and Saddleback, in Thornthwaite, Newlands, and 
 Buttermere: one in the parish of Loweswater, op- 
 posite the inn at Scale-hill, and one below the level 
 of Derwent Lake, have at times been the most 
 productive. A copper mine had formerly been 
 worked to a great depth in a hill called Gold 
 Scalp, in Newlands, and is said to have produced 
 a very rich ore, which appears to have been the 
 yellow sulphuret, or copper pyrites. A little cobalt 
 ore has formerly been got in Newlands, and small 
 quantities of manganese in various places. A salt 
 spring, near the Grange, in Borrowdale, has an- 
 ciently been in some repute for its medicinal qua- 
 lities; another has been more recently discovered 
 in working a lead mine near Derwent Lake. They 
 
160 
 
 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 both issue from veins in this rock, but their source 
 remains unknown. 
 
 The SECOND, or Greenstone division, com- 
 prehends the mountains of Eskdale, Wasdale, 
 Ennerdale, Borrowdale, Lano^dale, Grasmere, 
 Patterdale, Martindale, Mardale, and some ad- 
 jacent places; including the two highest mountains 
 of the district, Scawfell and Helvellyn, as well as 
 the Old Man at Coniston. All our fine towering 
 crags belong to it; and most of the cascades 
 among the lakes fall over it. There are indeed 
 some lofty precipices in the former division; but, 
 owing to the shivery and crumbling nature of the 
 rock, they present none of the bold colossal fea- 
 tures which are exhibited in this. 
 
 Most of these rocks are of a pale-bluish or 
 grey colour; some are porphyritic, others of a 
 slaty structure; differing however from the slates 
 of the last division, inasmuch as these exhibit no 
 distinct partings by which they are to be separated. 
 A reddish aggregated rock, of a coarse slaty struc- 
 ture, is to be seen on entering the common on the 
 road from Keswick towards Borrowdale. It ap- 
 pears to form one of the lower beds of the division, 
 and may be traced each way to some distance. It 
 is succeeded by the compact dark-coloured rock of 
 Wallow Crag, in which quartz, calcareous spar, 
 chlorite, and epidote, are found in veins. Garnets 
 are found imbedded in some of the rocks on Cas- 
 tlerigg Fell and Great Gable. An amygdaloid 
 rock, containing nodules of calcareous spar, and 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 161 
 
 sometimes of agate, opal, or calcedony, is met with 
 in several places — as near Honister Crag — be- 
 tween Bowder Stone and Rosthwaite — on Castle- 
 rigg Fell, near Keswick — and in Wolf Crag, on 
 the road to Matterdale. A curious mixed rock, of 
 basaltic appearance, is found near Berrier; it 
 skirts the north side of Caldbeck Fells, forms the 
 hill called Binsey, and may be seen on the north 
 side of the Derwent, near to Cockermouth. 
 
 The fine pale-bltie roofing slate occurs in beds 
 (called b^ the workmen, veins) : the most natural 
 position of the cleavage or bate of the slate ap- 
 pears to be vertical; but it is to be found in various 
 degrees of inclination, both with respect to the 
 horizon, and the planes of stratification. The 
 direction of the slaty cleavage bears most com- 
 monly towards the north-east and south-west; 
 while the dip or inclination is more variable : the 
 former may be ascribed to some general operation 
 of nature; the latter being influenced by local 
 circumstances — such as the weight of a mountain 
 pressing upon one side, while the other side is 
 wanting a support. The direction and inclination 
 of the strata are more distinguishable by stripes 
 and alternations in the colour and texture, than by 
 any natural partings; and the slates are split of 
 various thickness, according to their fineness of 
 grain, and the discretion and skill of the workman, 
 without any previous indication of the place where 
 they may be so divided. They do not separate 
 into thin flakes, like those of the former division; 
 p2 
 
162 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 but some of them, when long used, are subject to 
 a peculiar species of decay, which operates most 
 powerfully on parts least exposed to the weather. 
 
 Most of the rocks of this division effervesce in 
 some degree with acids, but more especially those 
 possessing the slaty structure. They are not very 
 productive of metallic ores, although they afford 
 a considerable variety. A vein of lead ore has for 
 some years been profitably worked at Greenside^ 
 in Patterdale; copper has formerly been got at 
 Dalehead, in Newlands, which is near the northern 
 boundary of the division — it consists of grey and 
 purple copper, with specimens of malachite. A 
 mine at Coniston, near the southern boundary, 
 produces the yellow sulphuret; and a vein of the 
 same was a few years ago opened at Wythburn. 
 Small veins of iron ore are frequently met with, 
 but scarcely thought worth notice. The famous 
 plumbago, or black-lead mine of Borrowdale, is 
 also situated in this division : but no organic re- 
 mains have been discovered in either this or the 
 preceding. 
 
 The THIRD division, or Silurian group — forming 
 only inferior elevations — commences with a bed of 
 dark-blue transition limestone, containing here and 
 there a few shells and madrepores, and alternating 
 with a slaty rock of the same colour; the different 
 layers of each being in some places several feet, 
 in others only a few inches in thickness. This 
 limestone crosses the river Duddon near Brough- 
 ton; passing Broughton Mills, it runs in a north- 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 163 
 
 east direction through Torver, by the foot of the 
 Old Man mountain, and appears near Low Yew- 
 dale and Yew Tree. Here it makes a consider- 
 able slip to the eastward, after which it ranges past 
 the Tarns upon the hills above Berwick ground; 
 and stretching through Skelwith, it crosses the 
 head of Windermere near Low Wood Inn. Then 
 passing above Dovenest and Skelgill, it traverses 
 the vales of Troutbeck, Kentmere, and Long 
 Sleddale ; crossing the two intervening mountains 
 in the direction of the roads which lead over them; 
 so that no relation can be discovered between the 
 direction of the valleys and that of the stratifica- 
 tion. It dips to the south-east, while the cleavage 
 of the slate with which it is associated, frequently 
 inclines in an opposite direction. 
 
 Towards the south-east succeeds a series of rocks 
 of the same dark-blue colour, and principally of a 
 slaty structure, but accompanied in places with a 
 rock which breaks alike in all directions. This 
 last has supplied a great portion of the rounded 
 stones found in the beds of the rivers Kent and 
 Lune ; thus furnishing materials for paving the 
 streets, and repairing the roads in the vicinity. 
 
 A rock of fine-grained sienite is observed near 
 the foot of Coniston Lake ; and one containing a 
 portion of mica appears in Crosthwaite. The 
 strata seams are more distinct in this than in the 
 preceding division; but, like that, it is not marked 
 by any natural partings in the plane of cleavage. 
 A quarry one mile from Brathay, on the road to- 
 
164 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 wards Hawkshead, yields excellent flags for floor- 
 ing; and they are manufactured into tombstones 
 with good effect, by Mr. Webster, of Kendal, and 
 Mr. Bromley, of Keswick. This quarry aff'ords a 
 good example of the stratification (or, as some will 
 have it, rhomboidal crystallization) of these rocks. 
 The cleavage is here nearly perpendicular; and the 
 strata, being from one foot to five in thickness, dip 
 to the south-east at an angle of about thirty de- 
 grees. In some districts in Yorkshire the layers 
 are so much diminished in thickness, that slates 
 and tables are formed in the plane of the stra- 
 tification, instead of the cleavage ; and this has 
 probably given rise to the notion of two distinct 
 cleavages crossing each other under a certain 
 angle. Roofing slate (called black slate, to dis- 
 tinguish it from the blue of the second division) is 
 manufactured in large quantities in the district 
 between Ulverston and Broughton ; which is well 
 situated for shipping either by the river Duddon 
 or by canal from Ulverston. 
 
 The preference given to the slates from certain 
 quarries as requiring less weight, for the covering 
 of a roof of given dimensions, depends not so much 
 upon the specific gravity (which varies at most 
 from 2749 to 2800, or one part in 55) as upon the 
 fineness of grain, which enables it to bear splitting 
 thinner. All the rocks of this division eff'ervesce 
 more or less with acids; they contain some calca- 
 reous spar and pyrites; but little metallic ore, ex- 
 cept a small quantity of galena, with green and 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 165 
 
 yellow phosphate of lead, which has been got 
 near Staveley ; and some yellow copper ore in 
 Skelwith. 
 
 Although little notice has hitherto been taken by 
 authors of the difference between the roofing slates 
 of these three divisions, yet a workman of moderate 
 experience will readily distinguish them: and I 
 have endeavoured so to describe the peculiarities 
 of each, that those who may hereafter be engaged 
 in examining similar districts may be better en- 
 abled to compare them. 
 
 A conglomerate, composed of rounded stones 
 of various sizes, from the smallest gravel, to the 
 weight of several pounds, held together by a fer- 
 ruhinous, calcareous cement, forms a hill of a para- 
 bolic shape, about 1200 feet in height, called Mell 
 Fell; and some lesser elevations extending to the 
 foot of Ullswater. The pebbles are evidently 
 fragments of older rocks, rounded by attrition, 
 and must have been transported from some dis- 
 tance, apparently from the southward: but what 
 became of the surplus when the hill was rounded 
 to its present shape? This has been generally 
 taken as a member of the old red sandstone for- 
 mation, which is understood to pass under the 
 adjacent limestone, but, except perhaps near Shap 
 Abbey, their actual contact or order of super- 
 position has scarcely, in this district, been dis- 
 covered. 
 
 A large mass of similar composition appears 
 in the bed, and on the banks of the river Lune, at 
 
166 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale. Its dip indicates that it should 
 pass under the limestone which appears at a little 
 distance; but its containing nodules of limestone 
 seems to militate against this assumption,* except 
 it can be supposed that the lower bed of limestone, 
 which extends from Coniston through Long Sled- 
 dale, has been disrupted by the protrusion of the 
 granite of Shap Fells; and the rounded fragments 
 along with those of adjoining rocks, deposited here; 
 and then, by going a step further, may many of 
 the pebbles of Mell Fell be supposed to be derived 
 from the same neighbourhood. Something of the 
 same kind also appears in the river Mint, from 
 two to three miles above Kendal; where it may be 
 seen to rest upon the blue rock; and wherever the 
 subjacent rock can be seen, it is always deeply 
 coloured by the iron of the conglomerate. A layer 
 of similar appearance is interstratified with the red 
 sandstone at Barrow Mouth near Whitehaven ; 
 and a still newer formation of the same kind adjoins 
 the Cartmel sands near Humphrey Head. 
 
 A superincumbent bed called the mountain, or 
 upper transition limestone, mantles round these 
 mountains, in a position unconformable to the 
 strata of the slaty and other rocks upon which it 
 reposes. It bassets out near Egremont, Lam- 
 plugh, Pardshaw, Papcastle, Bothel, Ireby, Cald- 
 beck, Hesket, Berrier, Dacre, Lowther, and Shap; 
 it appears again near Kendal, Witherslack, Cart- 
 
 * A likely place for the decision of this question is in the bed 
 of a brook in Casterton Wood. 
 
GEOLOGY OY THE LAKE DISTRICT. 167 
 
 mel, Dalton, and Milium, from whence for some 
 distance its place is occupied by the sea; and in 
 the neighbourhood of Gosforth and Calder Bridge, 
 a red sandstone intervenes, so that the limestone 
 is either wanting or buried under more recent for- 
 mations. It dips from the mountains on every side, 
 but with different degrees of inclination; the de- 
 clivity being generally least on the southern side. 
 In the neighbourhood of Witherslack it forms lofty 
 isolated ridges, while the subjacent slaty rock ap- 
 pears in the lower ground; and it may be seen 
 upon the surface as far as Warton and Farleton 
 Crags, and even as far as Kellet, before it is 
 covered by the sandstone of the coal measures. 
 A remarkable exception, however, occurs in Holker 
 Park, where the mountain rock is succeeded by 
 limestone, and that by sandstone and shale, re- 
 sembling that which accompanies coal — all within 
 a very short distance. On the north and west of 
 the mountains, the inclination of the newer rocks 
 appears to be greater and the strata thinner; so 
 that the clay-slate of the first division is succeeded 
 by limestone, sandstone, and coal, all in the distance 
 of two or three miles. The principal mineral pro- 
 duction of this limestone, is iron ore, which is 
 raised in great quantities near Dalton, and also 
 near Egremont. 
 
 Beyond the circumference of the limestone dis- 
 trict, various kinds of sandstone and coal succeed 
 each other alternately; and a thin seam of coal 
 has been found interstratified with the limestone at 
 
168 
 
 GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 
 
 Hesket Newmarket; but it is easily understood, 
 that it would be in vain to look for coal within this 
 limestone circle; consequently it cannot be found 
 in the neighbourhood of the lakes. Coal is raised 
 at Grey south en, Gilcrux, and Plumbland; and 
 there are extensive fields of coal beneath the town 
 of Whitehaven; at Workington, and on the south 
 side of the river Ellen at Maryport. From Mary- 
 port towards Carlisle, and thence to Penrith, is a 
 large tract of red sandstone of unknown depth. 
 To the eastward, the plain of the Eden is bounded 
 by a long range of mountains, called by some the 
 British Apennines, or the Back-bone of England. 
 These mountains are stratified, but do not produce 
 coal in any valuable quantity, except at the nor- 
 thern end towards Brampton. South-east, coal is 
 found on Stainmoor; and more southward, its 
 first appearance is near Hutton Roof, between 
 Burton and Kirkby Lonsdale; and near Ingleton, 
 there is an extraordinary assemblage of slate, lime, 
 and coal. 
 
 Boulder stones are often met with, far removed 
 from their native rock. They are often seen at a 
 considerable elevation on the side of a valley op- 
 posite that from whence they have been produced; 
 but do not appear to have been carried over high 
 mountain ridges. The granite blocks from Shap 
 Fells are scattered over a great part of Westmor- 
 land; but are not found in the neighbourhood of 
 the lakes. Boulders from the sienite of Butter- 
 mere and Ennerdale are found on the west coast 
 
GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 169 
 
 of Cumberland; but not in the vales of Keswick 
 or Windermere. The granite of Caldew and 
 sienite of Carrock can be recognized in Boulders 
 in the neighbourhood of Carlisle; but are not seen 
 to the south of Keswick. The porphyritic Boul- 
 ders from St. John's Vale, and the mountain east of 
 it, are frequent in the neighbourhood of Penrith; 
 the large stone in the centre of Mayburgh is of 
 that kind. The famous Bowder Stone of Bor- 
 rowdale does not come within the present descrip- 
 tion; having apparently fallen from the adjacent 
 rock above; but a large block near Skelwith Bridge, 
 on the road to Grasmere — one near Coniston 
 Waterhead, and another near Gosforth, as well as 
 many others of smaller dimensions — are far more 
 interesting to the geologist; yielding sufficient 
 scope for conjecture as to the place of their origin, 
 and the mode of their removal. 
 
 Evidences of the operation of some extraordinary 
 power, at a former age of the world, may be ob- 
 served in different valleys; especially those of 
 Borrowdale and Langdale, and also in the vicinity 
 of Windermere; where the surfaces of the lower 
 rocks are rounded and smoothed in a remarkable 
 manner. Some, who have become converts to a 
 recently promulgated theory, will attribute those 
 appearances to the agency of Glaciers; but the 
 action of Water seems more intelligible to the 
 mere English geologist. 
 
METEOROLOGY. 
 
 Besides the permanent beauties of a country 
 diversified by hills and dales, mountains and ]|ikes, 
 there are transient subjects capable of arresting the 
 attention of the contemplative observer; amongst 
 which are, — the mists or fogs — forming over the 
 surface of lakes — floating along the sides of hills 
 — or collected into clouds, hovering upon the sum- 
 mits of mountains. 
 
 Mountains have been supposed to attract the 
 clouds with which their summits are so frequently 
 enveloped ; but it is more to their agency in 
 forming them, that the accumulation of clouds in 
 mountainous countries may be attributed. Clouds 
 are formed of aqueous particles floating in the at- 
 mosphere; and they serve as an awning, to shield 
 the earth from the violence of the sun's rays in 
 hot weather; and to protect it from the rigour of 
 a cold winter's night, by obstructing the radiation 
 of heat from its surface. In the clearest weather 
 a portion of water always exists in the atmosphere 
 in the state of an invisible vapour; and the higher 
 the temperature, the greater quantity it is able to 
 sustain ; so that when air, fully saturated with 
 
METEOROLOGY. 171 
 
 vapour, suflFers a diminution of its heat, the water 
 is exhibited in the form of mists, clouds, dew, or 
 rain. It has been stated by the late Dr. Hutton 
 of Edinburgh, and more fully exemplified by Dr. 
 Dalton, that the quantity of vapour capable of 
 entering into air, increases in a greater ratio than 
 the temperature; therefore, whenever two volumes 
 of air, of different temperatures, are mixed toge- 
 ther, (each being previously saturated with vapour,) 
 the mean temperature is not able to support the 
 mean quantity of vapour ; consequently its precipi- 
 tation in the form of clouds and rain, is occasioned, 
 not by mere cold, but by a mixture of comparatively 
 cold and warm air : and on this principle may be 
 explained many of the phenomena of mist or fog, 
 clouds, dew, and rain. 
 
 Different portions of the earth's surface, and of 
 course the contiguous portions of air, are differently 
 heated by the sun's rays impinging upon them in 
 various degrees of obliquity ; and this difference is 
 naturally much greater in a mountainous than in a 
 champaign country; and on two portions of air 
 thus unequally heated, being intermixed one with 
 the other — either by the ascent of the warmer and 
 lighter part, or by a gentle current of the wind — 
 the vapour assumes a visible form. 
 
 The temperature of the earth, from a few yards 
 below the surface, to the greatest depth hitherto 
 explored, suffers little variation between summer 
 and winter. It corresponds nearly with the mean 
 temperature of the atmosphere; being here about 
 
172 METEOROLOGY. 
 
 48 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer. A body 
 of water, such as a lake of considerable depth, 
 forms a kind of mean between the subjacent earth 
 and the superincumbent air: its surface is influ- 
 enced by the temperature of the atmosphere, while 
 its lower parts admit of less variation; consequently 
 the surface will in summer be the warmest, and in 
 winter the coldest part. So long as the surface 
 of water retains its fluidity, it helps to meliorate 
 the temperature of the air in its vicinity; and its 
 surface being frozen, the water contiguous to the 
 ice will always be nearly 32°; at the same time 
 the temperature towards the bottom may be some 
 degrees higher. 
 
 In clear weather, the surface both of the earth 
 and of water is warmed in the day and cooled 
 during the night; but in diff"erent proportions — the 
 water retaining its heat much longer than the land. 
 It will sometimes happen, in an autumnal evening, 
 that the temperature of the air and that of the 
 water of a lake will be equal; and yet before sun- 
 rise there will be a difference of twenty degrees 
 or upwards; in this case the air above the water, 
 being warmer, will contain more vapour than that 
 above the land, and on their intermixture a mist 
 or fog will be formed; which will continue to float 
 in the atmosphere till it be either dissolved by an 
 increase of heat, or being moved into a colder 
 region, be deposited in the form of devf or hoar 
 frost. Sir Humphrey Davy has observed, that 
 upon some rivers on the continent, a mist or fog 
 
METEOROLOGY. 173 
 
 be^an to appear as soon as the temperature of the 
 air was diminished from 3 to 6 degrees below that 
 of the water. This will depend upon the previous 
 moisture or dryness of the air, and partly on the 
 current of the wind; but a fog is seldom seen on 
 these lakes, until the difference of temperature 
 reaches 12 degrees or upwards. 
 
 On the disappearance of the sun in a clear 
 evening, a mist is sometimes observed over a piece 
 of moist ground; where it seems to be formed, and 
 for some time kept afloat, by a kind of contention 
 between the heated surface of the earth below it, 
 and the colder atmosphere above; but the earth 
 not continuing to afford the necessary supply of 
 heat, the conflict ceases; and the vapour settles 
 upon the grass in the shape of dew. 
 
 It has been a matter of surprise to some, that a 
 cloud should seem to remain stationary upon the 
 summit of a high mountain, when the air was 
 moving at a brisk rate. The warm air of a valley 
 being impelled up the inclined plane of a mountain 
 side, into a colder region, is not able to support 
 the same quantity of vapour; and a cloud is formed 
 in consequence; and although the individual par- 
 ticles of which it is composed, are continually 
 moving forward with the wind; yet by a perpetual 
 accession of vapour on one side, and dispersion on 
 the other, the cloud may continue to occupy the 
 same place, and appear to a distant observer as 
 stationary; although its component parts are suc- 
 cessively changed: and in this manner may the 
 q2 
 
174 METEOROLOGY. 
 
 materials of a cloud be transported invisibly from 
 the summit of one mountain to that of another. 
 
 When a dense cloud settles upon a mountain, 
 the wind frequently blows from it on one side with 
 an increased momentum, while on the opposite side 
 its motion is retarded; and a shower commencing 
 on the hills, is generally preceded in its course by 
 a squall — the air, displaced by the falling rain, 
 making its escape along the valleys where it meets 
 with the least resistance. 
 
 A covering of snow makes a kind of barrier, 
 between the internal heat of the earth, and that of 
 the atmosphere: being a bad conductor, it pre- 
 serves the surface of the earth from the severity 
 of cold in winter; but in spring, excludes it from 
 the genial effects of the solar rays. In the mean- 
 time the contiguous atmosphere suffers more exten- 
 sive variations ; the greatest extreme of cold being 
 experienced when the earth is covered with snow. 
 
 The quantity of rain seems to increase as we 
 approach from the south towards the great group 
 of the Cumbrian mountains; which probably re- 
 ceive more rain than any equal area in England: 
 the annual average being at London little more 
 than 20 inches; at Manchester 36 inches; at Ken- 
 dal 56; and in the neighbourhood of Windermere 
 and Esthwaite, upwards of TO inches. On the 
 north of the mountains again, it decreases; at 
 Keswick being estimated at 58, while at Carlisle 
 it does not much exceed 30 inches. 
 
THE FLOATING ISLAND 
 
 IN DERWENT LAKE. 
 
 Some have contended that the term Floating 
 Island was improperly applied to this subject, as 
 it never changes its situation — being still attached 
 by its sides to the adjacent earth under water; 
 but Floating Island being the name by which it 
 has always been known, there can be no manifest 
 impropriety in retaining the appellation. 
 
 It is situated in the south-east corner of the 
 lake, not far from Lowdore, about 150 yards from 
 the shore, where the depth of the water does not 
 exceed six feet in a mean state of the lake. It 
 generally rises after an interval of a few years, 
 and after a continuance of warm weather. Its 
 figure and dimensions are variable : it has some- 
 times contained about half an acre of ground, at 
 other times only a few perches; but extending in 
 a gradual slope under water, a much greater por- 
 tion is raised from the bottom than reaches the 
 surface of the lake. Several large rents or cracks 
 may be seen in the earth about the place, which 
 appear to have been occasioned by its stretching 
 to reach the surface. It never rises far above the 
 
176 
 
 FLOATING ISLAND 
 
 level of the lake; but having once attained the 
 surface, it, for a time, fluctuates with the rise and 
 fall of the water; after which it sinks gradually. 
 When at rest in the bottom of the lake, it has the 
 same appearance as the neighbouring parts, being 
 covered with the same vegetation, consisting prin- 
 cipally of Littorella lacustris, and Lobelia dort- 
 manna, interspersed with Isoetes lacustris, and 
 other plants common in this and all the neigh- 
 bouring lakes: after remaining some time above 
 the water, its verdure is much improved. For a 
 few inches in depth it is composed of a clayey or 
 earthy matter, apparently deposited by the water, 
 in which the growing plants have fixed their roots; 
 the rest is a congeries of decayed vegetable matter, 
 forming a stratum of loose peat earth about six 
 feet in thickness ; which rises from a bed of very 
 fine soft clay. A considerable quantity of air is 
 contained in the body of the island, and may be 
 dislodged by probing the earth with a pole. This 
 air has been found by Dr. Dalton to consist of 
 equal parts of carburetted hydrogen and azotic 
 gasses, with a little carbonic acid. 
 
 In the last forty years, the times of its appear- 
 ance have been as follows. In 1808, from the 
 20th July to the beginning of October ; in 1813, 
 from the 7th September to the end of October ; 
 in 1815, from the 5th to the end of August; in 
 1819, from the 14th August to the end of that 
 month; in 1824, from 21st June to the end of 
 September; in 1825, it was above water from the 
 
ON DERWENT LAKE. 177 
 
 9th to the 23rd of September; and in 1826, from 
 the 11th July to the end of September; the un- 
 common ch-cumstance of its appearing in three 
 successive years, may be attributed to the extraor- 
 dinary warmth of the seasons. It rose above 
 water again on the 10th June, 1831, and remained 
 uncovered till the 24th September, being the long- 
 est period ever remembered ; although its dimen- 
 sions have sometimes been larger. In 1834 and 
 1835 it was above water, for a few weeks in each 
 year, in August and September; and in 1837, in 
 July and August. Again, in 1841, it appeared on 
 the 19th of July, and remained till the beginning 
 of the following month. 
 
 It would be tedious to investigate every hypo- 
 thesis which has from time to time been put forth 
 to account for this phenomenon — with the argu- 
 ments for and against each — some supposing water, 
 others air, as the chief agent in its production. 
 
 A small mountain stream which pours down a 
 rock opposite the place, and runs underground 
 before it reaches the lake, has been employed in 
 various ways to account for its rising ; and many 
 an assumption has been advanced, of the way in 
 which air might be conveyed or generated under- 
 neath it. 
 
 One material circumstance has however gene- 
 rally escaped observation: namely, that the air to 
 which the rising of this island has been attributed, 
 is not collected in a body underneath it; but is 
 interspersed through the whole mass. And the 
 
178 
 
 FLOATING ISLAND. 
 
 most probable conclusion seems to be, that air or 
 gas is generated in the body of the island by de- 
 composition of the vegetable matter of which it is 
 formed; and this gas being produced most co- 
 piously, as well as being more rarefied in hot wea- 
 ther, the earth at length becomes so much distended 
 therewith, as to render the mass of less weight than 
 an equal bulk of water. The water then insinu- 
 ating itself between the substratum of clay and the 
 peat earth forming the island, bears it to the sur- 
 face, where it continues for a time; tUl, partly by 
 escape of the gas, partly by its absorption, and 
 partly by its condensation consequent on a decrease 
 of heat, the volume is reduced; and the earth gra- 
 dually sinks to its former level, where it remains 
 till a sufficient accumulation of gas again renders 
 it buoyant. 
 
 But as the vegetable matter of which the island 
 is principally composed, appears to have been 
 amassed at a remote period, when the lake was of 
 less depth than at present, receiving very little 
 addition from the decay of plants recently grown 
 upon the spot; it is reasonable to suppose that 
 the process furnishing the gas cannot from the 
 same materials be continued ad infinitum : but 
 that there must be, or probably may have been, a 
 time when it shall have arrived at its maximum: 
 after which the eruptions will become less exten- 
 sive or less frequent. 
 
THE BLACK LEAD MINE 
 
 IN BORROWDALE. 
 
 Of the first discovery or opening of this mine, we 
 have no account ; but from a conveyance made in 
 the beginning of the seventeenth century, it appears 
 to have been known and estimated before that time. 
 The manor of Borrowdale is said to have be- 
 longed to the Abbey of Furness; and having at 
 the dissolution of that monastery fallen to the 
 crown, it was granted by James the First to Wil- 
 liam Whitmore and Jonas Verdon, who by a deed 
 bearing date the twenty-eighth day of November 
 1614, sold and conveyed unto Sir Wilfred Lawson 
 and thirty-six others therein named, all the said 
 manor of Borrowdale, "except all those wad-holes 
 and wad, commonly called black cawke, within the 
 commons of Seatollar, or elsewhere within the 
 commons and wastes of the manor of Borrowdale 
 aforesaid, of the yearly rent or value of fifteen 
 shillings and four-pence;" since which time it has 
 been held distinct from other royalties of the manor; 
 a family of the name of Bankes being for some 
 generations the principal proprietors. 
 
 It is situated about nine miles from Keswick, 
 in the steep side of a mountain, near the head of 
 
180 
 
 BLACK-LEAD MINE IN BORROWDALE. 
 
 the valley of Borrowdale; and occurs in a rock 
 called, by Mr. Bakewell, a grey felspar porphry. 
 It is not found in a continuous vein; but rather in 
 sops or bellies, the connection between which is 
 traced with difl&culty. 
 
 Formerly this mine was worked only at intervals, 
 and when a sufficient quantity had been procured 
 to supply the demand for a few years, it was strongly 
 closed up until the stock was reduced; but of late 
 it has been obtained less plentifully, and the de- 
 mand being greater, the working has been con- 
 tinued for several years successively. 
 
 Being capable of enduring a great heat without 
 fusing, or cracking, it is used in the manufacture of 
 crucibles; it is excellent in diminishing friction in 
 machinery; and its value in cleaning and glossing 
 cast-iron work is known to every housemaid. But 
 its principal use is in pencils, for the manufacture 
 of which Keswick has been long famed; but though 
 in the vicinity of the mine, the pencil-makers are 
 obliged to purchase all their black-lead in London, 
 as the proprietors will not permit any to be sold 
 until it has first been lodged in their own ware- 
 house. It was formerly used without any previous 
 preparation; being only cut with a saw to the 
 scantlings required, and thus enclosed in a suit- 
 able casing of cedar wood; but generally being too 
 soft for some purposes, a method of hardening it 
 had long been a desideratum; and a process has 
 at length been discovered, by which it may be 
 rendered capable of bearing a finer and more 
 
BLACK-LEAD MINE IN BORROWDALE. 181 
 
 durable point; but its colour will be somewhat 
 deteriorated. 
 
 Great quantities of pencils are now made of a 
 composition, formed of the saw-dust and small 
 pieces of black-lead, which being ground to an 
 impalpable powder, is mixed with some cohesive 
 medium: for this purpose different substances are 
 employed, some of which make a very inferior 
 pencil; but others, being united at a proper de- 
 gree of heat, and consolidated by a strong pressure, 
 make a pencil to answer for many purposes, (espe- 
 cially where the writing is intended to be perma- 
 nent,) full as well as the genuine black-lead. 
 
 The specific gravity of the best wad, or black- 
 lead, is, to that of water, as two to one nearly : the 
 coarser kind is heavier in proportion, as it contains 
 more stony matter. It comes from the mine in 
 pieces of irregular shape, and of various sizes, 
 requiring no process to prepare it for the market, 
 further than freeing the pieces from rock, or any 
 extraneous matter which may adhere to them. It 
 is then assorted according to the difi'erent degrees 
 of purity and size, and thus packed in casks and 
 sent off to the warehouse in London, where it is 
 exposed to sale only on the first Monday in every 
 month. 
 
 To prevent the depredations of intruders, it has 
 sometimes been necessary to keep a strong guard 
 upon the place; and for its better protection, an 
 Act of Parliament was passed 25th George II. 
 cap. 1 0th, by which an unlawful entering of any 
 
182 BLACK-LEAD MINE IN BORROWDALE. 
 
 mine, or wad-hole of wad, or black-cawke, com- 
 monly called black-lead, or unlawfully taking or 
 carrying away any wad, &c. therefrom, as also the 
 buying or receiving the same, knowing it to be 
 unlawfully taken, is made felony. 
 
 In the year 1803, after a tedious search, one of 
 the largest bellies was fallen in with, which pro- 
 duced five hundred casks, weighing about one 
 hundred and a quarter each, and worth thirty 
 shillings a pound and upwards, besides a greater 
 quantity of inferior sorts; and since that time 
 several smaller sops have been met with : in the 
 beginning of the year 1829, a sop produced about 
 half a dozen casks; the best part of which was 
 eagerly bought up at thirty-five shillings a pound. 
 In 1833, they succeeded in filling a few casks, the 
 best part of which has been sold at forty-five shil- 
 lings a pound; since which time it has been less 
 productive. 
 
 The annual consumption of this mineral, which 
 two hundred years ago had been valued at fifteen 
 shillings and four-pence, has been estimated at 
 between 3,000/. and 4,000/., and appears to be 
 constantly increasing ; but how far a permanency 
 of supply can be calculated upon, is questionable. 
 The most prolific part of the mountain may be 
 already explored, and the principal body or trunk 
 of the mine excavated, so that posterity must be 
 contented with gleaning from the branches. 
 
LANCASTER. 
 
 LONSDALE, AND THE CAVES. 
 
 In enumerating the various paths by which the 
 Lake District may be approached, mention has 
 been made in this volume (p. 91) of the line 
 from Lancaster up the vale of Lune, through 
 Kirkby Lonsdale, to Kendal. It has been sug- 
 gested that the first portion of this route is of 
 sufficient importance to justify a more lengthened 
 description; and that a few pages may be well 
 devoted to an account of the Caves and other 
 natural curiosities, which may be conveniently 
 visited from Kirkby Lonsdale. 
 
 The details which follow, are presented to the 
 tourist by one who is personally acquainted with 
 the scenes he describes; but who, in matters veiled 
 in the obscurity of ancient days, is content to rely 
 
184 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 upon the opinions of antiquarians of repute, (such 
 as Dr. Whittaker,) whose decisions are more de- 
 serving of regard than any hypothesis which he 
 might presume to propound. 
 
 Lancaster. — Dr. Whittaker pronounces Lan- 
 caster " a highly favoured place, distinguished 
 by the beauty of its situation, the magnificence of 
 its castle, and its rank as the capital of one of 
 the most populous counties in the kingdom." The 
 complaisance of antiquaries, led by their father, 
 Camden, has generally induced them to consider 
 this place as the Longovicus of the Notiti(je\ but 
 Dr. W. conceives it to have been the Setaniiorum 
 Partus of Ptolemy. At this time, " an attentive 
 eye will scarcely discover, in the oldest remaining 
 buildings, any vestiges of architecture prior to the 
 time of Charles II." — The Castle well deserves the 
 inspection of the visitor, to whom the interior is 
 accessible at all hours of the day. The Gateway, 
 flanked by two octagonal turrets, surmounted by 
 watch towers, and defended by a triple row of ma- 
 chicolations, is appropriated to John of Gaunt, by 
 the arms of himself and his royal father. It is 
 about QQ feet in height. The new buildings, in- 
 cluding the two splendid Courts, were commenced 
 in 1788, and completed at an expense to the county 
 
 of £40,000. The Church. This is an edifice 
 
 chiefly erected in the 12th century. It is 143 feet 
 in length, 58 feet in breadth, and 40 feet in height; 
 situated closely adjacent to the Castle, in a spa- 
 cious Church-yard, from whence the most beau- 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 185 
 
 tiful views are obtained. The most valuable relics, 
 the Stalls, have, according to Whittaker, been 
 probably brought hither from some more stately- 
 building.- The Town Hall, an imposing struc- 
 ture in the Market-place, was built in 1781-3, 
 
 at an expense of £1,300. The Lunatic Asylum., 
 
 a building admirably adapted for the melancholy 
 purpose for which it was erected, may be viewed 
 by tickets granted by the Visiting Justices. It is 
 situated on the Moor, a mile east of the Town. 
 
 THE YALLEY. 
 
 There are two routes from Lancaster to Kirkby 
 Lonsdale; one by Halton, on the western, the 
 other by Hornby, on the eastern side of the river. 
 The former is shorter by two miles, but, being 
 hilly and uninteresting, the latter route is gene- 
 rally preferred — as it ought to be by all who 
 wish to see the country. " On approaching 
 Caton, three miles from Lancaster," says Dr. 
 Whittaker, " the character of the Vale of Lune, 
 as one of the first of northern valleys, is instantly 
 and incontrovertibly established. The noble wind- 
 ings of the river, the fruitful alluvial lands on its 
 banks, the woody and cultivated ridge which 
 bounds it to the north-west, the striking feature 
 of Hornby Castle in front, and, above all, the 
 noble form of Ingleborough, certainly compose 
 an assemblage not united in any rival scenery 
 in the kingdom." Before reaching Caton, on the 
 r2 
 
186 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 high ground, a little to the right of the road, is 
 the view up the valley, described and rendered 
 celebrated by the poet Gray. 
 
 " At Hornby, a fine opening to the right, con- 
 sisting of the valleys formed by the Wenning and 
 the Greta, discloses new scenes of beauties, again 
 terminated by Ingleborough, now seen in nearer 
 and more distinct majesty; after which, the prin- 
 cipal opening, growing still more expanded, and 
 suffering nothing, as yet, from its increased eleva- 
 tion, either in point of shade or fertility, approaches 
 Kirkby Lonsdale. The soft and luxuriant beauties 
 of this place, terminated by the Howgill Fells, a 
 group of mountains, of striking form, though infe- 
 rior to Ingleborough, are scarcely to be surpassed: 
 and he who should wish for a happier combination 
 of river, meadows, and indigenous wood of the 
 richest growth, than that which appears beneath 
 the celebrated terrace of this place, might have 
 cause to lament that his taste was too fastidious to 
 admit of any gratification from landscape. As we 
 advance northward, the vale gradually undergoes 
 some diminution of its charms, though none of its 
 fertility, till it is met by the Rothay, from the 
 east. It then assumes, more and more, the cha- 
 racter of a high mountain glen, gradually ascend- 
 ing and contracting, while it grows diminutive in 
 its features, as well as cold and barren in propor- 
 tion, till, after a rapid turn towards the east, the 
 glen and brook of Lune terminate on the verge of 
 Ravenstonedale, in Westmorland." 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 187 
 
 Claughton — "the Town of Claugh" — ^pos- 
 sesses an ancient Manor House, built about the 
 latter end of James, or the beginning of Charles I. 
 It is of an oblong form, with two embattled towers, 
 containing numerous transome lights. 
 
 Hornby, — " unquestionably the Manse of 
 Home, a Saxon name," — is a neat little town, 
 watered by the river YV^enning, and situated at 
 the confluence of that river with the Lune. The 
 site of the Castle was anciently occupied by the 
 Romans. The first structure, of which there are 
 no remains, is attributed by Camden to Nicholas 
 de Montbegon, who flourished about the 12th cen- 
 tury, or 1st of Henry I. The Great Tower was 
 built by Edward, the first Lord Mounteagle, whose 
 name and motto may be seen upon it. The Eagle 
 Tower, which surmounts it, was erected by Lord 
 Wemyss, in 1743; and the present Front by the 
 Chartres family. Independently of other associa- 
 tions connected with this place, it will long be 
 remembered as the subject of "The Great Will 
 Cause," which, commenced in 1826, is only just 
 brouoht to a conclusion — a striking instance of 
 "the law's delay." 
 
 The Church was begun by Edward, Lord 
 Mounteagle, in consequence, as tradition reports, 
 of a vow made on Flodden Field. The octagon 
 tower alone, which retains his arms, encircled with 
 the Garter, was finished by himself. It bears the 
 following inscription : 
 
 fE. Sitanlefi : tnilc^ : trux : iflountcagle : nte : fieri : ftctt, 
 
188 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 The choir was completed by his executors in an 
 inferior manner. In the Churchyard remains the 
 tall base of a very singular and ancient cross, (a 
 ponderous block of free-stone.) 
 
 To the west of the Church is a small Catholic 
 Chapel, the officiating priest of which is Dr. Lin- 
 gard, the celebrated historian, who lives in the 
 residence adjoining. 
 
 Ancient Mounds.— The traveller through 
 Lunesdale cannot but be struck with numerous 
 artificial mounds, which greet his eye in every di- 
 rection. About half a mile from Hornby, on the 
 road to Gressingham, is the most remarkable of 
 these ancient works. According to Dr. Whittaker, 
 "this is a magnificent Saxon fortification, intended 
 to guard the pass of the Lune, as it commands the 
 river upwards and downwards. Its form is a re- 
 gular ellipsis, at the north end of which the axis 
 major is a circular mount, separated from the area 
 below by an interior second fosse. The whole 
 area is 2a. 9p. It is, perhaps, not too bold a con- 
 jecture, to suppose that it was the Castle of Home, 
 the first founder." It has been assumed by other 
 writers that these elevations constitute the Agraria 
 of the Romans. It is remarkable that a majority 
 of them are situated near our old parish churches : 
 for instance, at Halton, Melling, Arkholme, Kirkby 
 Xionsdale, and Sedbergh. For whatever purpose 
 they were originally designed, whether as places 
 of defence, or "moot-hills," where justice was dis- 
 pensed ; in later days, they appear to have been 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 189 
 
 put to more ignoble uses. " I find," says Whitta- 
 ker, "'The Gallow Hill of Melling' mentioned in 
 the records of Hornby Castle." And the small 
 one, on the glebe immediately behind the Vicarage 
 at Kirkby Lonsdale, appears to have been used for 
 even a less useful and more cruel purpose, being 
 known to this day by the soubriquet of " Cock-pit 
 Hill." 
 
 Melling. Proceeding up the valley, two miles 
 from Hornby, we pass through Melling. The 
 Church a spacious building of late Gothic, is re- 
 markable for nothing but a rich Norman doorway, 
 and a handsome black-marble font presented by 
 W. Gillison Bell, Esq., whose residence is the 
 Hall contiguous, which commands an extensive and 
 diversified view upwards of the expanded vale. 
 
 THURLAND CASTLE. 
 
 Crossing the Greta, we approach Thurland 
 Castle, in a spacious park. It was built in the 
 reign of Henry IV. and left in ruins by the rava- 
 ges of the wars of Charles I. It has however been 
 judiciously restored by R. T. North, Esq. the pre- 
 sent proprietor; in the process of which the demo- 
 lition of the hoary gateway is to be lamented. 
 
190 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 Brian Tunstall, "the stainless," "that bold 'squire," 
 who fell on Flodden Field, held Thurland Castle 
 and the lordship; and is said to lie buried in Tuns- 
 tall Church; but Whittaker doubts the latter fact, 
 and assigns the recumbent statue which now lies 
 near the altar rails, and which tradition points 
 out as his effigy, "with little diffidence" to Sir 
 Thomas Tunstall, the founder of the Castle. 
 
 On the right, a quarter of a mile from the village 
 of Tunstall, stands the Church, a plain fabric of 
 middle Gothic. 
 
 A mile onward is Overborough, or Burrow. 
 The stranger cannot but be delighted with the 
 appearance which this place presents — its cottages 
 overgrown with roses and woodbines ; and the small 
 garden plots in front, blooming with fragrant flow- 
 ers, and verdant with laurels and rhododendrons. 
 
 Roman Station. Immediately on passing 
 
 Leek Beck, we arrive on "classic ground," — the 
 site of the BremetonaoB of Antonine. Burrow 
 Hall, a respectable mansion of the last century, 
 is erected upon the Prsetorium. 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 191 
 
 A drive of two miles brings us to Kirkby Lons- 
 dale Bridge. The date of this noble structure 
 is lost in obscurity. There is no doubt, however, 
 that it was built previous to the time of Edward 
 the First; as it appears that in the third year of 
 that reign, a rate of pontage was granted for re- 
 pairs. It is built of freestone, and has three ribbed 
 arches, the two larger of the span of 55 feet each, 
 and the smallest of 28 feet. The roadway is 180 
 feet in length, but so narrow that "two wheelbar- 
 rows tremble when they meet." The views of the 
 river from the centre are singularly beautiful; it 
 here flows through a rocky channel, narrow, but of 
 profound depth; and the banks on either side are 
 adorned with fine trees. In the spring of 1841, a 
 drover committed suicide by precipitating himself 
 over the parapet on the north side into the water 
 — a height of 45 feet. 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale contains upwards of 1200 
 inhabitants. It is the capital of, says Dr. Whit- 
 taker, "probably the finest valley in the kingdom," 
 and was formerly, as its name implies, the Kirk or 
 Church Town of Lunesdale. It possesses a too 
 spacious market-place. The only building of any 
 importance is the Church. The architectural effect 
 of this venerable edifice has been entirely destroyed. 
 We are indebted to the execrable taste of some 
 modern Goths for its present barn-like appear- 
 ance; its leaden roofs, battlements, pinnacles, and 
 clear story, having been removed to give place to 
 an enormous sweeping roof of blue slate. In the 
 
192 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 interior, it is as bad. The same rage for improve- 
 ment has pulled down stalls and carved work; and 
 covered, with a thick coat of plaster, column and 
 capital of the most delicate and elaborate work- 
 manship. The western doorway is a rich Norman 
 
 arch, adorned with basso relievos of grotesque 
 animals, &c. After leaving the church, proceed 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 193 
 
 through the stile in the north-east corner of the 
 church-yard, and take a survey of the view 
 alluded to at p. 186. Pursuing the path along the 
 
 
 
 Brow, and through a fine park, you shortly come in 
 sight of Underley, erected by A. Nowell, Esq., but 
 now the property of Alderman Thompson, M. P. 
 
 From Kirkby Lonsdale, the tourist to the Lakes 
 may proceed direct to Kendal, but, if his time per- 
 mit, a drive up the valley will be found replete with 
 interest. 
 
 CASTERTON HALL. 
 
 A mile from Kirkby Lonsdale, on the eastern 
 side of Lune, is Casterton, the Pride of Lons- 
 s 
 
194 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 dale. Two or three hours spent amongst its woods, 
 hermitages, gardens, cascades, and fountains, will 
 yield an ample store of enjoyment; and a visit to 
 its admirable scholastic institutions, established by 
 The Rev. W. Carus Wilson, will afford to the 
 philanthropist a gratification of no ordinary kind. 
 
 Four miles further, on the left, is Grimeshill, 
 the residence of Wm. Moore, Esq., the represen- 
 tative of an ancient Westmorland family; and half 
 a mile further, on the right, is Middleton Hall, an 
 excellent specimen of our ancient manor houses. 
 
 Cross the Rothay, and proceed up the valley, 
 in a westerly direction, to the Black Horse in 
 Killington, or more commonly "Scotch Jean's." 
 From the hill immediately in front of the house, 
 there is a very splendid view of the vales of Lune, 
 Rothay, and Garsdale. 
 
 Onwards, about six miles further we come to 
 Low Borrow Bridge. It is situated in the 
 northern pass of the valley, at its junction with 
 Little Borrodale. There is an excellent inn here, 
 where parties may form head quarters, while visit- 
 ing the vicinity. Here is a Roman Station, now 
 called Castle Field, close behind the house; con- 
 sisting of a square inclosure, 360 feet in length, 
 and 300 in breadth. On the sides facing the east, 
 north, and west, are the remains of the walls; and 
 on the latter side, the traces of two fosses. Where 
 the east gate stood, is a stone, which was dug out 
 a few years ago, and it is evidently one of the 
 original sockets, the groove for the hinge remain- 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 195 
 
 ing as perfect as if freshly cut. Sherds of Roman 
 pottery have been found; and a silver coin of the 
 reign of Aurelian. From the style of the cutting 
 or quartering of the facing stones, (many of which 
 have been used in building the outhouses, in order 
 to preserve them,) there is no doubt that this sta- 
 tion is coeval with Overborough, and is the site of 
 the long lost and much disputed Alone. The very 
 name seems to warrant this opinion; for it is the 
 first station on the Lune (or Lone) ; and what so 
 natural as to give it the title from the river which 
 watered its walls ? The remains of several build- 
 ings have been discovered between the eastern 
 wall and the river. 
 
 From Borrow Bridge, The Black Force and 
 Cautley Spout may be conveniently visited; but 
 only by pedestrians. 
 
 The Black Force is a place frequented by 
 few but the shepherds, and should not be attempted 
 without a guide. It is a most terrific scene when 
 visited in an evening. An enormous hollow in the 
 mountain, about a quarter of a mile in length, and 
 of an immense depth, yawns before you. You 
 enter, and find a chasm, whose black walls seem to 
 reach the top of the hill; at the upper end of which 
 is a cascade, whose stream is lost in spray before it 
 reaches the bottom, which is strewed with enor- 
 mous fragments of rock. Cross the eastern side 
 of the ravine, and, still keeping the water side, 
 proceed for another quarter of a mile, when you 
 can ascend the mountain, which was before im- 
 practicable. When you arrive at the summit, look 
 
196 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 at the views around you, which are well worth all 
 the labour you have undergone. From the top of 
 this mountain (Fell Heud) it is an easy journey to 
 Cautley Spout. This place, though not pro- 
 perly belonging to Lonsdale, is too important a 
 feature of the Howgill Fells to be omitted. It 
 consists of three cascades; the highest of which 
 takes a clear leap of 400 feet and upwards. The 
 whole height of the cascade, from the "spout" to 
 the foot of the lower fall, has been measured as 
 860 feet. The south side of the fall is crowned by 
 tremendous precipices and shelves of loose stones, 
 called "Cautley Screes." The north side is par- 
 ticularly abrupt, and requires a firm foot, and a 
 good head, to get either up or down. 
 
 The tourist is now supposed to have returned 
 from his trip up the valley, to Kirkby Lonsdale ; be- 
 fore he leaves it for the Caves, let him take a view 
 of the Bridge, from the banks of the river. The 
 above is an accurate engraving of it from the north , 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES, 
 
 197 
 
 THE CAVES. 
 
 All the caves may be visited in progression from 
 Kirkby Lonsdale. To see Yordas, it is necessary 
 to send word to the Guide, who keeps the key of 
 the cavern, which is locked up to prevent the de- 
 struction of the petrifactions. Mr. Whitting-dale, 
 of Gale Green, Masongill, performs the office of 
 cicerone to Yordas. 
 
 We now take the caves in rotation, beginning 
 with Easg'ill, and endinjr with Goredale. 
 
 SCENE IN EASGILL. 
 
 Easgill is a tremendous rocky ravine betwixt 
 Leek and Casterton fells, abounding in natural 
 s2 
 
198 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 curiosities. It is three miles from Kirkby Lons- 
 dale, and may be approached by two routes: — one, 
 direct, over Low Casterton Fell End; the other 
 by Cowen Bridge, Leek, and Leek Fell : the latter, 
 however, is the best carriage route. Easgill is dry 
 in the summer months; unless during a thunder 
 shower, or continued rains. In the winter sea- 
 son, when the snow is melting, or the clouds 
 pour down their waters, it is a mountain torrent 
 of the most rapid and tumultuous nature, forming 
 a succession of whirlpools, waterfalls, and eddies, 
 unequalled in Britain. 
 
 There is a cavern called the Witch Holes, 
 about 300 yards from the entrance to the gill. It 
 is easy of access, and continues for a long way 
 into the mountain; but, after proceeding about 80 
 yards, we are stopped by a pool of water. To 
 the right of the entrance there is a singular thin 
 plate of limestone, called the " Witches' staircase;" 
 on climbing which, you find yourself in a small 
 apartment, all glittering with innumerable crystals. 
 The path from the cave to Easgill Kirk is dan- 
 gerous and difficult. Pass the "Dangerous Gate," 
 on the left side of the gill, over a narrow ledge in 
 the face of the precipice, and you are at once in 
 
 Easgill Kirk. — You are now standing upon 
 the primitive pavement of a river's bed, forming 
 an area of at least 200 yards in circumference, 
 inclosed on all sides but one by gigantic perpen- 
 dicular cliffs, rising from one to two hundred feet, 
 and ornamented at the top, and in various parts of 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 399 
 
 the sides, by trees, shrubs, and creeping plants. 
 In time of floods, there is a beautiful fall of water 
 in the north-east corner, of about 30 feet; and 
 another in the " Choir," a little to the right. The 
 Choir is entered by a fine arch, 8 feet high, and 
 14 feet broad. The interior is a small lofty apart- 
 ment ; and just over the entrance, on the opposite 
 side, is a grotesque petrifaction suspended from 
 the roof, called "The Priest of Easgill." 
 
 Climb the hill on the south-west side of the 
 Kirk, and take a narrow path which winds along 
 the summit, from which there is a fine view into 
 the interior. Descend again into the bed of the 
 river above, and you have, on either side, particu- 
 larly on the south, a range of high cliffs, having 
 the appearance of a large fort in ruins. About a 
 quarter of a mile up the ravine, you come in sight of 
 
 The Force. It is of smaller dimensions than 
 the Kirk, and of a diff'erent character. On stand- 
 ing at the entrance, it reminded us of nothing so 
 strongly as the stage of a theatre prepared for a 
 Brigand scene. Thin pieces of rock project from 
 the sides, nearly into the middle of the area, and a 
 large oblong loophole, of singular construction, 
 admits the water at the furthest, or eastern ex- 
 tremity. The rocks rise to a considerable height 
 on each side, and are, as usual, fringed with trees, 
 which almost overshadow it. 
 
 These fells abound with chasms of profound 
 depth, and several small caves, which are difficult 
 of access. The most remarkable are Bull-pot, 
 Gavel-pot, and Rumbling Hole. 
 
200 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 ENTRANCE TO YORDAS. 
 
 YoRDAS Cave. — The nearest route from Eas- 
 gill to Yordas, is to proceed in a south-easterly 
 direction to the top of Gregareth, the lofty moun- 
 tain to the right of the Force. On arriving at the 
 summit, descend again in the same line, taking 
 care to look out for a small plantation on your side 
 of the road through Kingsdale, which is in sight. 
 This plantation clothes the rocky banks of a small 
 ravine, down which flows a stream of water, in a 
 succession of small cascades, until it suddenly 
 rushes out of sight, being swallowed by a large 
 fissure in the rock. At the foot of the ravine, is 
 the entrance into Yordas Cave, forming a regular 
 arch about 7 feet high, and 8 feet wide. On gain- 
 ing admittance, the guide fixes an ample number 
 of candles upon two cross pieces of wood at the end 
 of a long pole; the visitor, also, takes one in each 
 hand. You then proceed under a low rock, which 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 201 
 
 hangs to within 5 feet of the floor. After proceed- 
 ing a few yards, the cave seems interminable, as 
 the eye is not quite accustomed to the gloom; and 
 the rushing of a large body of water, reverberating 
 through the hollow space, causes a feeling of awe. 
 A brook runs through the entire length of the 
 cave, which has been called the "River Styx." 
 You are now in a magnificent hall, 180 feet long, 
 48 feet in breadth, and from 35 to 70 feet high; 
 the sides being covered with curious petrifac- 
 tions. On the east, they are numerous, and give 
 one the idea of escutcheons, armour, and trophies, 
 hung against the wall of some baron's hall. These 
 are called "The Brown Bear," "The Coat of 
 Mail," " The Gauntlet," 
 " The Ram's Head, " 
 and "The Organ;" — 
 and the likeness to these 
 different objects is very 
 striking. The next place 
 is the "Bishop'sThrone," 
 in the north-east corner. 
 The petrifactions, al- 
 though of a dusky hue, 
 are remarkably fine, con- 
 sisting of wreathed pil- 
 lars, supporting a canopy. A little to the left, 
 through a narrow passage, you arrive at the 
 " Chapter House." This is the most beautiful 
 portion of the cavern; being a circular apartment, 
 the dome of which is supported by slender twisted 
 
202 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 columns ; the most delicate stalactites hang pendent 
 from the sides ; and at the north end, a fine cascade 
 falls down a smooth rock, from an elevation of at 
 least 50 feet. 
 
 YOaDAS— LOOKING BACK. 
 
 From Yordas the tourist may visit Gingling 
 Cave, Rowton Hole, the Keld Head, Ravenwray, 
 and Thornton Force; and so on to Ingleton, where 
 there are good inns. But if he wishes to proceed 
 immediately to Weathercote Cove in Chapel-le- 
 dale, he must cross Kingsdale above Bredagarth, 
 and ascend the mountain by a rough road, or 
 track, keeping on the south-west side of a quag- 
 mire near a heap of stones, apparently a cairn, 
 on the base of Whernside ; and then turning round 
 the west corner of the mountain, he will find him- 
 self near two or three lanes, any of which will lead 
 him to the chapel in the valley between Whernside 
 and Ingleborough. But this route is practicable 
 only for pedestrians : carriages must go by Thorn- 
 ton Church Stile, and turn there to the left to Yor- 
 das, returning by the same road, and thence to In- 
 gleton, whence to Weathercote it is four miles. 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 203 
 
 Situate in a romantic glen, about a mile from 
 Thornton Church Stile, is Thornton Force, a 
 remarkably fine waterfall. The river here falls, 
 with a noise like thunder, at one leap, about 30 
 yards, through an opening between two rocks. 
 We stand at the top, surveying the scene, which 
 is extremely wild and picturesque. The rocks are 
 fringed with trees, which impart a certain air of 
 gloom and veneration around the spot; and the 
 spray arising from the deep basin beneath, re- 
 sembles mist, or wreaths of smoke from a furnace, 
 and sprinkles the ground for many yards around 
 the fall. From below, a picture is exhibited which 
 leaves little for the imagination to supply. The 
 white sheet of flowing water — the black receptacle 
 beneath — the tree-clad rocks — and the wild moun- 
 tain scenery around, form a landscape as complete 
 as the most fastidious artiste could desire. 
 
 About 200 yards above the Force, is the rugged 
 pass of Ravenwray. Its wild and lofty scenery 
 may be better understood, after perusing the fol- 
 lowing sonnet: 
 
 Dark frowns the cliff upon the mountain stream. 
 
 That 'gainst its time-worn fragments breaks below, 
 
 And all in unison its waters flow 
 With the wild scene around. The wailing scream 
 
 Of the lone raven, from the stunted yew 
 
 Heard ominous— alone its solitude 
 Disturbs ; and on the awe-struck soul intrude 
 
 Thoughts that its inmost energies subdue 
 To their strong workings. On the rocky steep 
 
 Dimly the grey-haired Son of Song appears ; 
 While o'er the harp his airy Angers sweep ; 
 
 And at his bidding, forms of other years 
 Start into being— mighty men of yore- 
 Like the wild dream that fashioned them no more ! ^, 
 
204 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 The cliff on the west side is a rocky promontory 
 about 40 yards high, spotted with ivy and ever- 
 green shrubs; whilst the Doe runs beneath over 
 fragments of rocks, forming very romantic cas- 
 cades. 
 
 Weathercote Cave. — This surprising natural 
 curiosity is of a lozenge form; and its whole length, 
 from north to south, is about 60 yards. It is 
 divided into two parts by a rugged arch of lime- 
 stone. The entrance is by a door in the south- 
 east side, and you proceed down a flight of rude 
 
 steps, under the arch, 
 into the great cave. 
 Here you are full in 
 view of the cascade, 
 which rushes out of a 
 hole in the north cor- 
 ner of the gloomy ca- 
 vity. Rocks, covered 
 I'ji with black moss, rise 
 i to the height of 120 
 feet ; and the trees, 
 \ meetino^ nearly over the 
 
 top, add to the gloom and horror of the place. 
 The cascade, however, absorbs all the attention. 
 The exact height of the north corner of the cave 
 is 40 yards, and the aperture whence the water 
 issues is 1 1 yards from the top, the fall making a 
 clear leap of 29 yards, or 87 feet, upon a large 
 flat rock at the bottom, with a deafening noise, 
 and a concussion which makes the earth seem to 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 205 
 
 tremble. Between the 
 spectator and the cas- 
 cade is a frag-ment of 
 rock, suspended by its 
 opposite angles touch- 
 ing the sides of the 
 crevice. When the sun 
 shines, a small, but vi- 
 vid rainbow is formed 
 in the thick spray, which 
 continues about two 
 hours at mid-day. Af- 
 ter heavy rains the water pours into this cave on 
 all sides. All around, thousands of streamlets, 
 some as small as the running of a tap, others 
 copious as a mill-race, hurl themselves into the 
 boiling cavity, which, unable to carry off the de- 
 luge, is sometimes full, and flows over its bounds. 
 
 GiNGLE Pot is a natural chasm in the bed of 
 the rock, about 23 yards long, 3 yards broad, and 
 16 yards deep, 200 yards south of Weathercote. 
 At its southern extremity is a passage leading to 
 the stream, which loses itself in that cave. When 
 a stone is cast down, it produces a peculiarly hol- 
 low and gingling sound, from which, as in the 
 case of Gingling Cave in Gregareth, it derives 
 its name. During floods, the water boils out of 
 this hole. It is situated at the foot of a precipice, 
 and is hidden from view by trees. 
 
 Hurtle Pot is a dismal, gloomy hole, sur- 
 rounded on all sides with perpendicular rocks. 
 
206 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 which overhang a deep dark pool of water. The 
 descent to the edge of this pool is by a steep and 
 slippery path; and whenever you speak, or throw 
 in a pebble, your ears are assailed by uncommon 
 noises, whilst your nostrils are affected by un- 
 pleasant odours from the ramps and other weeds 
 that grow plentifully about its sides, and the rank 
 vapours that exhale from the black abyss beneath. 
 The depth of the pool, by accurate measurement, 
 is 27 feet. A curious phenomenon occurs in this 
 cavern, caused by the glutting of the water against 
 the surface of rocks, after heavy rains. A singular 
 noise is heard to proceed from the surface of the 
 water, which the country folks call "The Hurtle- 
 pot Boggart," or the "Fairy Churn." 
 
 The Chapel-i'-th'-Dale is 80 yards below 
 Hurtlepot. This church in the wilderness is a very 
 humble structure, and its situation is so beautifully 
 described by the erudite author of "The Doctor," 
 that we cannot help quoting him : — " A hermit 
 who could wish his grave to be as quiet as his cell, 
 could find no better resting-place. On three sides 
 there was an irregular low stone wall, rather to 
 mark the limits of the sacred ground, than to en- 
 close it; on the fourth it was bounded by a brook, 
 whose waters proceed by a subterranean channel 
 from Weathercote Cave. Two or three alders and 
 rowan trees hung over the brook, and shed their 
 leaves and seeds into the stream. Some bushy 
 hazels grew at intervals along the lines of the 
 walls, and a few ash trees as the wind had sown 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 207 
 
 them. To the east and west some fields adjoined 
 it, in that state of half cultivation which gives a 
 human character to solitude; to the south, on the 
 other side the brook, the common, with its hme- 
 stone rocks peering everywhere above ground, ex- 
 tended to the foot of Ingleborough. A craggy 
 hill, feathered with birch, sheltered it from the 
 north. The turf was as soft and fine as that of 
 the adjoining hills; it was seldom broken, so scanty 
 was the population to which it was appropriated; 
 scarcely a thistle or a nettle deformed it, and a few 
 tomb-stones which had been placed there, were 
 now themselves half buried. The sheep came over 
 the wall when they listed, and sometimes took 
 shelter in the porch from the storm. Their voices, 
 and the cry of the kite wheeling above, were the 
 only sounds which were heard there, except when 
 the single bell, which hung in its niche over the 
 entrance, tinkled for service on the Sabbath-day, 
 or, with a slov/er tongue, gave notice that one of 
 the children of the soil was returning to the earth 
 from whence he sprung." 
 
 Gatekirk Cave. — This beautiful cavern is 
 about a mile and a half north of Weathercote. It 
 has two entrances, one north and another south. 
 There is another passage from the south west, which 
 has been likened to an orchestra. The main branch 
 of the Greet runs through this cave. The stalactites 
 and stalagmites are in the greatest profusion and 
 perfection. The whole surface of the roof is hung 
 with grotesque shapes in stone ; and the ledge on 
 
208 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 the western side is like an image maker's shop, so 
 full is it of stalagmites of every variety of form. 
 There are several alleys branching off the main 
 passage. The water issues from the cavern in a 
 deep, clear, and strong stream, and is broken into 
 a succession of cascades and eddies, shaded by 
 weeping willows and mountain ash, until it loses 
 itself amongst a group of rocks. 
 
 DouK Cave is similar to Weathercote, but not 
 heightened by anything so vast or sublime. It is 
 longer and wider, but not so deep; and it lacks the 
 grand feature of the latter, the waterfall, though 
 there is a small cascade issuing from the cavern. 
 To get into this cavern, it is necessary to climb 
 up the face of the cascade; and you find yourself 
 in a long narrow passage with a lofty roof. 
 
 Catknot Hole is a small cavern about three 
 miles and a half from Weathercote, and half a mile 
 from Gearstones. It is situated at the foot of the 
 Great Colm or Cam. The river Ribble runs past 
 the mouth of this cave; and its romantic cascades 
 and precipices are worthy of observation. 
 
 Alum Pot lies half-a-mile south west of the 
 villaffe of Selside. It is a most awful looking^ 
 abyss, at least 50 yards in circumference, and has 
 been measured to the depth of 165 feet, or 55 
 yards, 48 feet of which were in water, and that, 
 too, in a very dry season. 
 
 Long Churn is a little farther up the mountain 
 to the right of Alum Pot. All the beautiful stal- 
 actites with which this cavern so much abounded, 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 209 
 
 have been removed by cart loads to build artificial 
 grottos. 
 
 DiCKEN Pot is a long passage running in a 
 contrary direction to Long Churn, and it termi- 
 nates in a lofty dome, called " St. Paul's." 
 
 Ingleborough. — This noble mountain is a 
 prominent feature in the scenery of this portion 
 of the country. From every part, its table land is 
 seen cleaving the skies; and an ascent upon its 
 summit, on a clear day, is one of the most delight- 
 ful excursions that can be undertaken. It stands 
 upon a base of at least thirty miles in circumfe- 
 rence, and its highest elevation is 2361 feet above 
 the level of the sea. The views from the top are 
 splendid. The whole extent of country from the 
 north to the south, with the Irish sea in the west, 
 can be distinctly traced as in a map. In the north- 
 west, the confused heaps of mountains in the Lake 
 district, with their grotesque outlines, terminate 
 the prospect, at a distance of 50 miles. West- 
 wards, it is closed in by the blending of sea and 
 sky. Southwards, after following the indented 
 shores of the Irish Sea, the Welsh mountains lift 
 their broken summits across the horizon. In the 
 east and north-east, black and irregular hills, and 
 deeply-indented valleys, soon terminate the pro- 
 spect. The plain on the top is about a mile 
 round ; and near the western edge a tower is 
 erected on the spot formerly occupied by a fire- 
 beacon. Several springs rise near the summit, 
 which o-enerally lose themselves in deep chasms in 
 T 2 
 
210 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 the sides, the most remarkable of which is Mier 
 Gill. There are a number of cavities all over the 
 mountain, resembling inverted cones ; the most 
 remarkable is "Barefoot Wives' Hole," a large 
 funnel-shaped pit, 50 yards in diameter, and about 
 26 yards deep. It is always dry, the water which 
 may flow into it being swallowed amongst the loose 
 stones at the bottom. These pits are similar to 
 those found on the Mounts Etna and Vesuvius. 
 Ingleborough, or " The Station of Fire," has 
 doubtless been, in the time of the Romans, a place 
 of defence, and a beacon of "smoke by day and 
 fire by night" to communicate the intelligence of 
 any irruption or insurrection to the surrounding 
 castelli and encampments. 
 
 Clapham is a sweet village, about four miles 
 south of Ingleton, on the Settle road. About a 
 mile and a half from hence is a cavern, which, for 
 magnitude and beauty, is second to none in the 
 British dominions. It may be visited on applica- 
 tion to Mr. J. Harrison, the guide, who resides 
 near the church. The walk to it is delightful, 
 the road leading through the pleasure-grounds of 
 Ingleborough, the residence of J. W. Farrer, 
 Esq., Master in Chancery. The path lies for a 
 short distance on the margin of a small artificial 
 lake, and then, turning to the left, enters a deep 
 valley, surrounded by lofty, precipitous hills, 
 abounding in tremendous scars. 
 
 At length you arrive at " Ingleborough 
 Cave." The entrance is at the base of an im- 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 211 
 
 mense precipice of limestone, and forms a wide 
 low arch, which gradually narrows for about six 
 yards, where there is an iron grating and a gate, 
 kept constantly locked, save for the ingress and 
 egress of visitors. To describe the interior of this 
 cave is impossible — no language can convey an 
 idea of its beauties — and the journey through it is 
 so free from danger that little children may go to 
 the end of it with impunity. For the first 200 
 yards, the roof gradually lowers, from about fifteen 
 to five feet. The surface is groined and crossed 
 like elaborate gothic work, but the petrifactions 
 are mostly of a dusky hue, though of every variety 
 of form and size. This portion is called the " Old 
 Cave." It was only in 1837 or 1838 that access 
 was gained into the " New Cave," by letting off 
 the water. Now, however, it is a stupendous ca- 
 vern, said to be 1000 yards in length, forming a 
 succession of chambers, lobbies, &c., adorned with 
 stalactites and stalagmites of infinite variety, single 
 and grouped. A small stream of water flows 
 through it, which tends to keep the air in agita- 
 tion, and a path has been raised the whole way, 
 so that visitors may walk through perfectly dry. 
 The utmost care is very properly taken to prevent 
 visitors from injuring the petrifactions, which have 
 been and are forming the most beautiful natural 
 curiosity that can possibly be conceived. A little 
 farther up the glen is "Crow Gill," a crevice in 
 the mountain, similar to Easgill Kirk. 
 
 Settle may be approached by two routes, both 
 
212 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 of which are equally interesting. The first is by 
 the common road, including Buckhaw Brow, and 
 the ebbing and flowing well. The other, turning 
 off at Cross Streets, leads the tourist through the 
 retired hamlet of Lawkland, with its fine old hall, 
 built in the reign of Elizabeth, and having been in 
 the possession of the Inglebys from that period. 
 The present resident is Thomas Ingleby, Esq. 
 By this latter route, the road lies through the 
 town of Giggleswick, in the church-yard of which 
 is the burial-place of Archdeacon Paley. Half a 
 mile from Giggleswick is Settle, a flourishing town 
 — the mart of the Craven district. A handsome 
 Town Hall has lately been erected here, which 
 contains an extensive library, and an excellent 
 news-room. The most remarkable feature of the 
 place is an enormous rock, called Castleber, which 
 raises its brusque front over the eastern portion of 
 the town, and seems to threaten it with destruc- 
 tion. At its base are various shady serpentine 
 walks, and seats; and the summit is easily ascend- 
 ed by a pathway cut in the rock. Here a succes- 
 sion of very beautiful views is obtained of the val- 
 ley of the Ribble, with Pennygant in the north, 
 and Pendlehill in the south; while, to the north- 
 west, the top of Ingleborough is just seen rising 
 behind the rugged summit of the hill above Mains 
 Park. 
 
 Proceeding northwards, on the western side of 
 the Ribble, through the palace-village of Stack- 
 house, the tourist will be highly pleased with the 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 213 
 
 romantic scenery of the valley. After travelling 
 within about a quarter of a mile from Little Stain- 
 forth, we come to an old doorway in the wall on 
 the right side of the road, and passing through 
 that, and over a stile in another wall which runs 
 off at right angles, and then turning to the left for 
 about fifty yards, there are a few scattered stones 
 lying around a sort of natural drain. This is 
 called "Robin Hood's Mill;" and if the ear is put 
 to the aperture, as closely as possible, a sound as 
 of rumbling machinery is distinctly heard. 
 
 From hence, proceed through Little Stainforth 
 to Stainforth Force, which lies about fifty 
 yards south of the bridge over the Ribble. This 
 pretty cascade is formed by a succession of steppes 
 or ledges in the strata which form the bed of the 
 river, until it ends in a fall of six or seven feet. 
 
 Proceed to Stainforth, and inquire the road to 
 
 Catterick Force, a splendid waterfall, about 
 half-a mile from the village. This spot is similar 
 in detail to Easgill, but having a perpetual supply 
 of water, its effect is always sublime. 
 
 We are now on our nearest route to Malham 
 and Goredale. The road lies over the tops of the 
 mountains for about six miles, when we come to 
 Malham Tarn, a fine mountain lake, well stored 
 with trout of considerable size and delicate flavour. 
 Two miles farther brought us to 
 
 Malham Cove, one of the most tremendous 
 precipices which can be conceived. It stretches 
 across the whole width of the valley, forming a 
 
214 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 natural barricade of stone of every variety of 
 shade, nearly 300 feet high. A stream of water — 
 
 the source of the Aire — flows from a small cavity 
 at its base. When viewed from a distance, it has 
 the appearance of an immense ruin, being appa- 
 rently pierced with ornamental windows and door- 
 ways. Half a mile from the Cove is the village 
 of Malham, and another mile brings us to 
 
 Gored ALE. In writing of this stupendous and 
 magnificent work of Nature, to which nothing in 
 Britain is comparable, language must fail to de- 
 
LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 215 
 
 scribe, and imagination cease to conceive. To 
 direct the curious traveller into the gorge, and 
 there leave him to his own sensations, is all we 
 can do. The approach is through a rocky ravine, 
 (strewn with immense fragments, and intersected 
 by one or two small streams) which gradually nar- 
 rows and grows more gloomy as we progress. 
 The rocks on each side rise to an enormous height, 
 and are the habitations of kites and ravens. At 
 length, on turning round an awful looking preci- 
 pitous shoulder of rock, the horrors of the dismal 
 gorge, and the almost closing precipices burst upon 
 the sight; whilst the din of the foaming waters, 
 and the rushing of the winds through the narrow 
 crevice, heighten the terror of the scene, which is 
 still further enhanced 
 by a cliff 240 feet high, 
 which threatens every 
 moment to hurl de- 
 struction on the heads 
 of those who stand un- 
 derneath its seeming- 
 ever-falling bulk. An 
 adventurous person 
 may climb above the 
 lower fall to another, 
 which rushes from a 
 round aperture in the 
 cliffs above. The whole may also be surveyed 
 from the top. 
 
 Leaving' Goredale, we follow the course of the 
 
216 
 
 LONSDALE AND THE CAVES. 
 
 stream for about half a mile, when we are shewn 
 a very pretty cascade, which falls a height of about 
 30 feet, close by a natural cavity in the rock, called 
 "Janet's Cave." We then visit the River Head, 
 a series of powerful springs, and at length arrive 
 at Kirkby Malham, where there is a fine old church. 
 The preceding are the chief curiosities in the 
 Districts of Lonsdale and Ewcross : although the 
 tourist may and will find many others of less note, 
 perhaps as beautiful. Our object, however, has 
 been merely to direct him to the leading fea- 
 tures of the landscape, leaving him to find out the 
 rest by his own tact and taste. Having derived 
 much pleasure and profit from our visits to these 
 scenes, we should wish all men to participate with 
 us the feelings which spring from a review of the 
 beauties and wonders of Creation. j^ |^. ja. 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale, July, 1842. 
 
 KIRKBY LONSDALE BRIDGE.— SOUTH VIEW. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Airey Force, 37 
 
 Brothers Water, 17 
 
 Alum Pot, 208 
 
 Burrow, 190 
 
 Ambleside, 102 
 
 Buttermere, 19, 125 
 
 
 
 Angle Tarn, 29 
 
 Calder Abbey, 79 
 
 Antiquities, 75 
 
 Calder Bridge, 133 
 
 Appendix, 140 
 
 Calgarth Park, 4 
 
 Armathwaite, 137 
 
 Carlisle to Keswick, 87 
 
 Armboth House, 9, 112 
 
 Carrock Fell, 66 
 
 Arthur's Round Table, 76 
 
 Cartmel Well, 92 
 
 Askham, 114 
 
 Castles, 78 
 
 Ayes Water, 29 
 
 : Castle Crag, 74 
 
 Aysgarth Force, 141 
 
 Castle Inn, ] 37 
 
 
 Castlehead, 118 
 
 Bampton, 114 
 
 Caton, 185 
 
 Bardsea, 90 
 
 Catterick Force, 213 
 
 Barnscar, 77 
 
 Catknot Hole, 208 
 
 Barrow House, 122 
 
 Catchety-cam, 56 
 
 Barrow Cascade, 36 
 
 Cautley Spout, 196 
 
 Bassenthwaite, 19 
 
 Chapel-le-Dale, 202 
 
 Beacons, 77 
 
 Char, 3 
 
 Belle Isle, 3 
 
 Clapham, 210 
 
 Birker Force, 39 : 
 
 Cockermouth, 116 
 
 Birkrigg, 94 ; 
 
 Colwith Force, 39 
 
 Black-Lead Mine, 179 j 
 
 Conishead Priory, 94 
 
 Black Comb, 66 i 
 
 Coniston Fell, 66 
 
 Black Force, 195 
 
 Coniston Water, 10 
 
 Black Sail, 22 
 
 Crags, 74 
 
 Blea Tarn, 28, 104 
 
 Crow Park, 120 
 
 Blea Water, 31 
 
 Crummock Water, 20, 129 
 
 Blencathera, 63 
 
 
 Borrowdale, 124 
 
 Dalegarth Force, 39 
 
 Borrow Bridge, Low 194 
 
 Dalemain, 115 
 
 Botany, 142 
 
 Dalton, 94 
 
 Bowderdale, 24 
 
 Derwent Lake, 1 1 
 
 Bowder Stone, 123 
 
 Derwent River, 40 
 
 Bowfell, 65 \ 
 
 Devoke Water, 34 
 
 Bowness, 6, 99 
 
 Dicken Pot, 209 
 
 Bowness to Coniston, 100 
 
 Douk Cave, 208 
 
 Brathay River, 3, 42 ) 
 
 U 
 
 Druidical Circles, 75. 
 
218 INDEX. 
 
 Duddon River, 42 
 
 Baseness, 127 
 
 Dunald Mill Hole, 91 
 
 Hawcoat, 94 
 
 Dungeon Gill, 39 
 
 Hawes Water, excursion to, 97, 
 
 Dunmai] Raise, 1 1 1 
 
 by Shap, 98 
 
 
 Hawkshead, 88, 101 
 
 Eagle Crag, 74 
 
 Helm Crag, 110 
 
 Easdale Tarn, 29 
 
 Helvellyn, 53 
 
 Easgill Kirk, 198 
 
 High Street, 69 
 
 Eden River, 41 
 
 Honister Crag, 126 
 
 Elterwater, 27 
 
 Hornby, 185, 187 
 
 Ennerdale Water, 22 
 
 Hurtle Pot, 205 
 
 Eskdale, 108 
 
 
 Esthwaite Water, 7 
 
 Ingleborough, 209 
 
 Explanation of Terms, 80 
 
 Ingleborough Cave, 210 
 
 
 Irt River, 42 
 
 Fairfield, 68 
 
 
 Ferry, 95 
 
 Jeveraux Abbey, 141 
 
 Fleetwood, 89 
 
 
 Floating Island, 12, 175 
 
 Kendal, 96 
 
 Flookborough, 92 
 
 T^^i"Tmr^ionfi -TrnTn 07 00 
 
 
 Friar Crag, 119 
 
 Keswick, 116 
 
 Furness Abbey, 78 
 
 ,Excursions from, 122-138 
 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale, 191 
 
 Gable, or Great Gavel, 64 
 
 Kirkstone, 107 
 
 Gatekirk Cave, 207 
 
 
 Gates Water, 31 
 
 Langdale Pikes, 68 
 
 Geology, 154 
 
 Excursion, 103 
 
 Giggleswick, 140 
 
 Lakes, 1 
 
 Gillerthwaite, 22 
 
 Lamplugh, 135 
 
 Gilsland Spaw, 87 
 
 Lancaster, 90, 184 
 
 Gingle Pot, 205 
 
 Sands, 91 
 
 Glossary, 80 
 
 Canal, 90 
 
 Goredale, 214 
 
 ir- L^lvcreton 9'' 
 
 Gosforth, 133 
 
 Latrigg, 48 
 
 Gowbarrow Park, 113 
 
 Leven River, 42 
 
 Grange, 82, 123 
 
 Levers Water, 31 
 
 Grasmere, 7, 110 
 
 Lisa River, 42 
 
 Grasmoor, 65 
 
 Long Churn, 208 
 
 Greta River, 41 
 
 Long Meg, 75 
 
 Greta Bridge, 141 
 
 Long Sleddale, 97 
 
 Grisedale Pike, 66 
 
 Lonsdale and the Caves, 183 
 
 Gummers-how, 51 
 
 Loughrigg Fell, 71 
 
 
 Lowdore, 35, 123 
 
 Hallsteads, ] 7 
 
 Lowes Water, 21 
 
 Hardknot, 89 
 
 Lowick Chapel, 94 
 
 Harrison Stickle, 68 
 
 1 Bridge, 94 
 
INDEX. 219 
 
 Lowther Castle, 1 1 5 
 
 Rothay River, 3, 42 
 
 Low Wood Inn, 101 
 
 Routes, 87 
 
 Lune River, 41 
 
 Rydal Water, 8 
 
 Lyulph's Tower, 16, 139 
 
 Waterfalls, 38 
 
 
 Hall, 110 
 
 Malham Cove, 213 
 
 Mount, 1 1 
 
 Mardale Chapel, 114 
 
 
 ■ Green, 18, 98 
 
 Saddleback, 63 
 
 Melbreak, 128 | 
 
 Scale Hill, 20, 129 
 
 Mell Fell, 165 ! 
 
 Scales Tarn, 33 
 
 Melling, 189 
 
 Scawfell and Pikes, 59 
 
 Meteorology, 170 
 
 Screes, 24, 81 
 
 MUlbeck, 104 
 
 Scroggs, 106 
 
 Milnthorp, 9 1, 93 
 
 Season for Visiting, 84 
 
 Model of the District, 117 
 
 Seatoller, 126 
 
 Morecambe Bay, 89 
 
 Seatsandal, 29 
 
 Mounds, 188 
 
 Settle, 211 
 
 Mountains, 43 
 
 Shap Abbey, 79 
 
 — , Bearings and heights of, 72 
 
 Shap Wells, 98 
 
 
 Shepherd's Crag, 3l6 
 
 Naddle Forest, 18 
 
 Skelgill, 101 
 
 Nan Bield, 97 
 
 Skelwith Bridge, 37, 103 
 
 Newby Bridge, 6 
 
 ..Force, 37 
 
 Newlands Vale, 128 
 
 Skiddaw, 44 
 
 
 Stainforth Force, 213 
 
 Old Man, Coniston, 66 
 
 Stainmoor, 140 
 
 Overborough, 190 
 
 St. John's Church, 118 
 
 
 Vale, 112 
 
 Packet Boat, 90 
 
 Swaledale, 141 
 
 Patterdale, 17, 107 
 
 
 Paveyark, 74 
 
 Tarns, 27 
 
 Peel Wyke, 137 
 
 Taylor Gill, 39 
 
 Penrith, 113 
 
 Thirlmere, 9 
 
 Pillar Fell, 64 
 
 Thornton Force, 140, 203 
 
 Place Fell, 16 
 
 Thurland Castle, 189 
 
 Ponsonby, 134 
 
 Tilberthwaite, 95 
 
 Pooley Bridge, 17, 113 
 
 Tunstall, 190 
 
 Preston, 90 
 
 
 
 Ullswater, 15 
 
 Rampsholm, 11 
 
 Ulverston, 93 
 
 Ravenwray, 203 
 
 ti^ '~'"Tii=t"r' '^^ 
 
 
 Red Tarn, 30 
 
 Underbarrow Scar, 153 
 
 Rivers, 40 
 
 
 Rock Harmonicon, 117 
 
 Vicar's Isle, 1 1 
 
 Rokeby, 141 
 
 
 Rosthwaite, 124 
 
 : Wallowbarrow Crag, 74 
 
220 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Wallow Crag, 18,74, 122 
 Walney Scar, 89 
 Wansfell Pike, 69 
 Warton Crag, 91 
 Wasdale Head, 131 
 Wastwater, 23 
 Watendlath, 32 
 Waterfalls, 35 
 Water Head, Coniston, 10 
 Weathercote, 204 
 Wensleydale, 141 
 Whitbarrow, 80 
 
 Whitehaven, 88 
 Whiteless Pike, 70 
 White Water Dash, 36 
 Wigton, 87 
 Windermere Lake, 2 
 Witch Holes, 198 
 Workington, 88 
 Wrynose, 89 
 
 Yewharrow, 24, 80 
 Yewdale, 95 
 Yordas Cave^ 200 
 
 LIST OF THE ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Most of the following Illustrations are from accurate drawings by Mr. T. Binns, 
 Portrait Painter, Halifax; and they are all engraven by Mr. O. Jewitt, of 
 Headington, Oxford. 
 
 The Scroggs (birth-place of 
 
 the Author) title 
 
 Loughrigg Tarn 1 
 
 Windermere, looking N. E, 5 
 Windermere, looking West 7 
 
 Grasmere 9 
 
 Coniston Water 11 
 
 Derwent Water 13 
 
 Ullswater from Pooley Bdg. 1 5 
 Mountains of Patterdale ... 17 
 
 Hawes Water 19 
 
 Crummock and Buttermere 21 
 
 Ennerdale 23 
 
 Wast Water 25 
 
 Lowdore Cascade 35 
 
 Head of Stock Gill 38 
 
 Skiddaw and Saddleback . . 45 
 
 View from Helvellyn 57 
 
 Druidical Circle at Keswick 75 
 Long Meg and her daughters 75 
 King Arthur's Round Table 7G 
 
 Mayburgh 77 
 
 Kendal Castle 78 
 
 Calder Abbey 79 
 
 Kendal Castle 96 
 
 ' Mills, at Ambleside 
 
 Bridge House, Ambleside 
 
 Lowther Castle 
 
 Bowder Stone 
 
 Head of Wast Water ... 
 
 Lancaster 
 
 Thurland Castle 
 
 Tunstall Church 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale Church 
 
 Western Doorway 
 
 Underley 
 
 Casterton Hall 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale Bridge, 
 looking down the river . 
 
 Scene in Easgill 
 
 Entrance to Yordas 
 
 Interior of Yordas 
 
 Yordas — looking back ... 
 Weathercote Cave 
 
 Malham Cove 
 
 Gordale, Approach to 
 
 Kirkby Lonsdale Bridge, 
 looking up the river ... 
 
 102 
 109 
 115 
 123 
 132 
 183 
 189 
 190 
 192 
 192 
 193 
 193 
 
 196 
 197 
 200 
 201 
 202 
 204 
 205 
 214 
 214 
 213 
 
 216 
 
 ARTHUR FOSTER, PRINTER, KIRKBT lONSDALE. 
 
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