i^r^^V 4 (Banquets OF the NATIONS SPILED SY feERT H. Christie Cornell University Library TX 737.C44 Banquets of the nations; eighty-six dinne 3 1924 000 700 595 FROM THE LIBRARY OF James B. Herndon, Jr. PRESENTED BY HIM TO THE School of Hotel Administration CORNELL UNIVERSITY Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000700595 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS A BALLADE OF DINNER. There are pleasures of various kinds, Which are nicely adjusted to suit The balance of various minds In a manner remarkably cute. But the best of them all I salute — It is shared by the saint and the sinner, It is common to man and to brute — The joys of an excellent dinner ! Not the beggar whom poverty grinds, Who is blind, or one-legged, or mute ; Not the German who constantly winds The most horrible airs on his flute ; Neither doctor nor lawyer astute, Nor ascetic who strives to grow thinner, Will ever attempt to dispute The joys of an excellent dinner. Not the thinker who suddenly finds He has settled a point which was moot ; Not the poet whom self-conceit blinds To the discord he twangs on his lute ; Not the lover whose bliss is acute, When of beauty and worth he's the winner, Will venture to try and refute The joys of an excellent dinner. L'Enuoi. Prince, do you hold in repute The joys of the mind, which are inner ? They are miserable, weak, and dilute To the joys of an excellent dinner ! R. E. H. BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS EIGHTY-SIX DINNERS CHARACTERISTIC AND TYPICAL EACH OF ITS OWN COUNTRY COMPILED BY ROBERT H. CHRISTIE, S.S.C., Edinburgh EDINBURGH J. & J. GRAY & CO., ST JAMES PRESS 191 1 INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS. And nearer as they came, a genial savour Of certain stew, and roast meats, and pillaus, Things which in hungry mortals' eyes find favour, Made Juan in his harsh intentions pause, And put himself upon his good behaviour. 1 N arranging for the social entertainment of the Edinburgh Cap and Gown Club, of which I am Honorary Secretary, it occurred to me that it would be a good idea to provide a few out-of-the-way dinners for the members — something original and unknown to the modern race of chefs. I became so engrossed in the work that the few became many, and the result i3 the present series which contains menus representative of no fewer than eighty-six different peoples — of dinners almost invariably wholesome, in some few cases perhaps otherwise, but in all, characteristic and typical of the country which provides the fare. Mr Rudyard Kipling has convinced himself that there are nine and sixty ways of constructing tribal lays, and every single one of them is right. I am persuaded that there are six and fourseore ways of concocting racial banquets, and that every single one of them is right — once in a way at least. Canada, Australia, and New Zealand have not been tapped ; the cookery in these countries being quite modern and cosmopolitan. The only peculiar Australian delicacy is kangaroo-tail soup, cooked in the same manner as ox-tail. v INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS Several of the European dishes are not entirely new. They have stood the ordeal of time and taste, and are more or less known to the ordinary man or woman who takes an interest in the task of " Feeding the Brute " ; but their arrangement and selection in the menus are at least novel ; and the Eastern recipes have never yet appeared in any book on cookery. They are the most interesting of all, and are, I think, well worth special study by epicures. For my information I am not entirely indebted to my own researches. I have to thank foreign plenipotentiaries and consuls, missionaries and their better halves all over the world, and the editors of two great works on the subject, "The Encyclopaedia of Practical Cookery," and "Dubois' Cosmopolitan Cookery," which are indispensable to those who would know the inner secrets of the culinary art. My thanks are also due to my old friend George Stronach, Advocates' Library, Edinburgh, who has, with the utmost good nature during the last seven years, given me much valuable assistance. The menus are written in the language of the country with English translations. In perpending the various menus, it should be taken into consideration that in Eastern countries most of the dishes are placed upon the table at the beginning of the dinner, and not at different times, as is the custom of Western nations. As that arrangement is not suitable for this country, most of the menus have been arranged in courses. The preparation of an Eastern meal is a very elaborate performance, involving lengthy ablutions and a variety of ritualistic observances. Therefore, as knives and forks, not vi INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS fingers, are the usual implements of attack in this country, the washing of hands, before, during, and after eating — a necessary refinement in Eastern dining — need not be insisted upon. The custom of hanging garlands of flowers round the necks of the diners, as is the graceful usage in Honolulu, may also be dispensed with, especially in winter time. It may not be irrelevant to remind the courteous reader and anxious inquirer that the curries in Indian dishes are not all fiery or hot. As a rule there is only one dish (the principal one) of a hot description set on the table, and the others are served mild. Though a few of the necessary ingredients cannot be obtained in this country with facility, or only at great expense, good substitutes have been suggested in their place; while all the dinners with few exceptions, can be cooked in an ordinary up-to-date kitchen, with the usual accessories. In Afghanistan, in the case of an ordinary feast given by a Sirdar or Khan to his friends, each guest on his arrival would shake hands cordially with his host, and then with the other guests, using the usual form of Persian greeting. All the foods are placed on the floor and served at once, though belated dishes may be brought in from time to time. Before each guest is placed a slab of unleavened bread about eighteen inches long, by twelve inches broad, from which he eats his food. The bread is seldom eaten. The guests squat on carpets, which are often of very great value. The feast always commences and ends with the washing of hands, the eating of a sweet called " Shrini," which is made the same as "Phirni" in the Punjab, vii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS also different kinds of sweetened nuts; then two cups of weak tea strongly sweetened with sugar and highly flavoured with cardamoms are drunk ; after which a cup of plain tea is taken to correct the palate. The cooking is sometimes of a decidedly simple nature, the great pot being continually on the fire, so that the hungry one may help himself at pleasure. Sqmetimes the meats may have been cooking for days, as additional portions of flesh, etc., are popped into the pot as fancy dictates. Amongst the Hindus, the feasts given by the Brahmins, Gujeratis or Bhattias are generally served and carried out much the same way in all the different provinces and states of India. When the guests invited have been received in the reception room by their host, without their shoes and with their ordinary clothes changed for silk ones or a simple loin cloth, they wash and seat themselves well apart on the bare floor, facing the centre of the room, so that if only four are met together, each takes up his position in a corner of the room, as it is a breach of religious etiquette for the diners to touch one another whilst partaking of food. Plantain leaves, generally triangular in form, two feet long and about one and half feet broad, are put in front of the guests. These leaves are bordered at the top by a white powder called " Ramgoli," made from a particularly soft stone, or rice flour mixed with different colours is occasionally used. On the left side of the seated guests, most of the sauces (chutnies — there are many in number) are laid down on the plantain leaves. On the right side the edibles are placed, and in the central part of the leaves are put bronze or silver bowls and cups containing boiled rice, boiled liquid pulse (lentils, etc.), viii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS and heated ghee (clarified butter). After the host has invited the guests to begin, servants pass the edibles, and each of the guests, as fancy dictates, places one or two of the different kinds of food on the leaf in front of him. Other servants offer the ghee, lentil pulse, rice, and chutnies, which are placed on the same leaf as the edibles, and the diner mixes them all together with his hands before commencing to eat. When the salt dishes have been offered twice, the sweets are brought in, the servants walking to and fro between the lines of guests with large dishes, asking them to help themselves ; after which they partake of a little plain boiled rice, mixed with milk and curd and flavoured with saffron. Servants with handsome vessels containing water, and others bearing basins and towels wait upon the diners, so that they may wash their hands and cleanse their mouths, and afterwards resume their ordinary clothes. In a grand and de- corated hall they are given pan (betel nut slaked with lime), attar, and sometimes dancing-girls are present to amuse the company. Many Hindus eat fish, flesh and fowl, but never shell-fish or the flesh of the cow. The Nepalese follow the same ritual, only they eat their food in the place where it was cooked. It is only amongst the lower classes that this is not done. All the salt and sweet dishes remain on the table till milk has been partaken of, after which dried fruits, etc., are eaten, and smoking indulged in. Recipes for some of the elaborate Indian dishes cannot easily be got, as the native cooks are extremely jealous of their knowledge, which in all likelihood has been handed down from father to son for many generations. The Mussulmans, barring pig, have no restrictions as to ix INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS food. They dine on the floor facing the centre of the room, but they are seated on planks or plats of wood covered with rugs or cushions. When all are seated, two servants enter, one with a handsome pitcher filled with water, to be poured over the diner's hands, which are held over a silver basin carried by another servant, who also carries a towel so that the hands may be dried. In the centre of the room a rug is laid, on which a large tray with bronze and silver dishes containing the different kinds of food is placed. In front of each diner a bronze tray is put, with a brass vessel of drinking water, and a number of silver dishes from which the food is eaten. Though the whole of the food is brought in at once, the Mussulman only takes one course at a time, and finishes up the repast much the same as do the Hindus, with a chew of betelnut, a little attar, and a smoke, while the dancing-girls are performing. Mussulmans or Mohammedans all over the country follow the foregoing pretty closely. The Burmese dinner service is a mixture of customs taken from China, Japan, and India. The dinner is either set on the table or on the floor. Nowadays, it is only the very poorest who have it on the ground : the better classes sit round a table on benches or chairs, but some of the very well-to-do people still prefer to have their dinners laid on the floor on a mat, and they sit round it on rugs, with their legs flexed. All the dishes are served at once. Each of the diners is given a small bowl into which he puts a portion of one or more of the different kinds of foods, which he eats either with the help of his chop-sticks, fingers, or a spoon, The favourite x INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS food of the Burmese is " high fish " — very high. After the salt dishes have been partaken of, fruit, pastries and sweets, generally bought from a confectioner, are eaten. As with the Hindus the gentler sex are not excluded from the dining-table, and after dinner both sexes may indulge in a smoke, chewing of betel leaf, or areca nut slaked with lime, or have tea. In Tibet the natives are anything but cleanly in their habits, and their culinary arrangements are exceedingly primitive. They have a strong dislike to fish except in a cured form. The meal, as a rule, begins with boiled eggs and finishes with sour curdled milk. Diners squat on the floor, and most of the dishes are placed on the table at once. Towels and a basin of warm water are supplied after the eating is done with, then the diners with- draw to another room, where they drink a cup of tea without milk or sugar, and afterwards tea made with salt and butter is handed round, and all smoke the water pipe. In Turkestan, the ceremony of cleansing, breaking of bread, and partaking of salt is always performed before sitting down to dinner. The dishes are served in courses, the first being that of fresh fruits, as the Bokharan holds, and he does so with a reasonable measure of common sense, that fresh fruits should only be taken on an empty stomach, as they are then more easily digested and help to prepare the digestive organs for the assimilation of the heavier dishes. In North China, to observe the correct rules of culinary etiquette, the courses must be served in a progression of pairs, four or sixes, leading up to a piece de resistance, and finishing with plain boiled rice in small bowls. Tea is afterwards served. xi INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS Between each set of courses, the guests toy with the sweets, etc., as they are not removed from the table. The table used should be a round one, and in front of each guest there is placed a pair of chop-sticks, one small saucer, one small ware spoon, and a tiny metal wine cup. The small dishes, including different kinds of condiments, such as mustard, soy, vinegar, pepper, etc., are placed round the table, a space being left in the middle for the large hot dishes. Each guest, with his chop-sticks, helps himself and his neighbour simultaneously, the saucer being held forward to the centre of the table. No course is removed until the succeeding one has been some time on the board. The Chinese wine, much the same as sherry or Madeira, is always served hot during the progress of the dinner, the host being most particular in seeing that his guest's wine cups are full. The host should sit facing the south. In South-East China the setting of the table is much the same as in the North, except that in the South-East all the hot dishes are placed in the centre of the table at once, and not served in courses of pairs, four or sixes. In Japan the dining-room floor is covered with thick mats (called tatami), and the guests are provided with cushions. They sit on their heels in front of one, two or three (according to the importance of the feast), small tables raised a few inches from the floor. Trays are put on these tables, containing several small bowls, plates, vessels for water, and the inevitable chop- sticks. The different foods are generally served in small dishes from the kitchen, or they may be served in large dishes which are placed on a large tray and handed round to the diners, who xii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS help themselves to what they think is the most delectable for assuaging the pangs of hunger. In Korea each guest at a dinner sits on the floor, and is provided with a small table about fifteen inches high and eighteen inches across. It may be round, square, oblong, or polygonal. The dishes are arranged thereon before the guests sit down, and are partaken of indiscriminately until they are satisfied. The sweets are usually brought on after the other dishes have been disposed of, and towards the close of the meal. A kind of rice spirit or '' sal " is usually drunk at meal times ; water is also taken — tea never. The " kinchi," a peculiarly offensive dish, is used as a general condiment, — the guest seizing a morsel of meat in his chop-sticks and dipping it in the "kinchi." The various dishes are served up in brass bowls and saucers, and the implements used are chop-sticks as in China. The art of dining in Java and on the Malay continent is much the same. A large dish of rice is placed on the floor, the diners sit round it, and with their fingers help themselves to what is offered by the servants who have many kinds of food in bowls placed on a large tray. They are particularly fond of samballs, which are simply glorified chutnies, made of all kinds of fish, fruits, and vegetables, and usually eaten as relishes to the salt dishes, though many of them are often served as separate dishes. The two dinners of which I have given particulars would only be served upon very special occasions. The dinners in the land of the Golden Rose (Siam) are of an elaborate nature. Many different kinds of salads and sweets, besides fish and meats, being served. The sauces are a xiii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS great feature in the cooking, these being exceedingly rich and varied. All the dishes, in a rather indiscriminate manner, are placed on the table at once. No knives are used, only spoons and forks. All fresh fruits are stoned and peeled before being served. It is considered the height of bad manners to put anything on the plate which has been in the mouth. A small dish is placed on the floor at the side of the diner's chair to receive that which is uneatable. In South Africa, over a hundred years ago, a great number of natives of India and the Malay Peninsula were introduced into the country, the consequence being that many of their dishes have now become "national." Some of the receipts are quaint and of very great age. The guests of any Arabs, whether in Algeria, Arabia, Palestine, Soudan, or any wandering tribe, would remove his sandals and wash his hands and feet before entering the tent. Then bread would be broken, dipped in salt and eaten. The guests sit in a circle on the floor. All the salt dishes are placed on a mat in the centre and surrounded with small earthenware or wooden dishes containing olives, raddishes, cucumbers, etc. Fingers are used, the meat being taken up with a piece of bread, which is made very fine and pliable. When the bread gets too soft, it is eaten. Sherbet is the only kind of liquor drunk at dinner, and grace is said — " Mohamed Karem Allah." Coffee and sweets are brought in, after which comes the Irjellah (pipe with long flexible tube), and each guest has a turn at it. The Algerian dinner is much the same as what was given by xiv INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS a native dignitary to the representatives of the French Govern- ment when on a state visit. The Arabian one is also elaborate, and would only be provided on a great occasion by a sheik of much importance. In Morocco all stewed dishes are cooked in earthenware pans, covered with a thick pan of a similar sort which holds the steam in. The result is that the food is nearly always tender. As a rule large quantities of butter are used in the cooking, which renders it rich for European taste. After a dinner, green tea, strongly flavoured with mint, lemon, verbena or other herbs, is served in small cups and sometimes coffee prepared more or less in Turkish fashion. Rose water and orange blossom water in long-necked bottles are handed round for perfuming the guests, and incense is burned in brass or silver incense-burners until the room often becomes thick with the scented smoke. The Moors habitually eat with their fingers ; they are seated on divans and help themselves from the dish direct. If the company consists of a number of guests, several dishes of each food is served. Previous to eating, the diner's hands are washed by warm water being poured over them, a brass basin with a perforated top being held to catch the water. This is done by a servant or slave, and after meals the same course is gone through — soap and scented water being used. In Egypt the service of the dishes is very mixed. After the dinner proper is finished, and before the fruit and other delicacies are partaken of, servants come round with large silver basins, jugs of water, soap and towels, so that the guests may cleanse their hands and faces. After the sweets and fruits, the servants xv INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS again come round with handsome silver basins containing per- fumed water into which the guests dip their fingers and sprinkle themselves. An Arab dinner in Palestine is a modest function ; the number of dishes are few, and their preparations are simple. The Jews, however, are more elaborate in their preparations of a feast. A small loaf of bread is always laid at each place on the table and covered with a white cloth. The bread is much like British bread and is made in the same way, except that it is baked in sheets like rolls, raisin water being used instead of yeast, and "smeed" instead of flour. "Smeed" is coarse ground wheat, and looks like American cornflour. A plentiful supply of bread and well filled glasses of cognac are always on the table. The Jew cannot understand why the Christian refuses the latter. Jews, in other countries, adopt the custom of the country they are in — the only difference being that they conform to the Mosaic laws by avoiding certain fish and meats ; the non-usage of eggs, butter, milk and cream in the cooking of flesh dishes, or those to be served with or after flesh has been eaten, and the eschewing of same for at least four hours after having eaten flesh, if orthodox " Kosher " is to be observed. In Armenia the washing and cleansing usual in Eastern countries are carried out, but the Armenians have the peculiar custom of eating salt and sweet dishes alternately. The cooking is much the same as in Asia Minor or Syria. In Asia Minor after the guests arrive and are seated, a small maid enters bearing a tray on which there are apricot sweets, two glasses of water, a silver goblet, and forks. The chief INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS guest is requested to help himself and it is de riguer that he observes the following custom. With one of the forks he impales the half of an apricot, wishes the host and others present all good wishes, places the whole of it, no matter how large, in his mouth at once. He then returns the fork to the tray after first dipping it into the silver goblet, takes one of the glasses of water, places his hand on his heart, bows to right and left, and drinks some of the water. After all have gone through this ceremony the maid returns with a basin, and attended by the host's brother or other near relative with an earthen jar of water and a towel. The guests hold their hands over the basin, and the water is poured over them. They seat themselves on the floor around a low table, or very large round tray placed on a low stand. Each dish is put in the centre, and all eat from the one dish. Soup and pilaf are eaten with a spoon, everything else is eaten with the fingers. The host will, as a mark of great favour, pluck what he considers a dainty morsel and pop it into the mouth of an honoured guest, and woe betide him if he does not gracefully accept the implied honour. Bread is very plentiful, and dishes containing salads, pickles and condiments, along with glasses of water, are never cleared from the table when the courses are being changed. After more washing, coffee is served. The host's son or daughter or other relative attends with the maid and takes the cup from the tray and hands it to the guest. In Kurdistan the dishes are few and homely. It is the custom that the whole of the first course, consisting of rice, broth, meat, and curdled milk, be served at once, that being divided into equal portions of one for each two guests. The b xvii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS customary ceremonial of all Arabs, that of removing sandals, eating bread and salt, etc., before squatting to food, are a sine qua non. In Syria all the salt dishes are placed on the table at once, and after the guests have helped themselves indiscriminately and eaten to repletion, the sweet dishes are offered ; after which the diners wash their hands with water and soap, and dry them with a towel. Fruit and coffee is then served, and the hands and person sprinkled with perfumed water. The great or principal dish is a lamb seethed in its mother's milk, forbidden in the Bible, but the usages of the country would be observed if cooked as given in the recipe. " Kibbeh " is another very typical dish, and no native would ever dream of spending a day at the riverside without taking it with him, and on offering you a portion he would politely wish you "Fahhatain," meaning two appetites. In Persia, after washing and offering up of prayers, the diners seat themselves on rich rugs on the floor round a large tray on which are placed vessels containing the different kinds of foods. This tray is usually standing on a handsome carpet in the middle of the floor. Though all the dishes are placed on the floor at once, the meats are served in courses, fish being the first one offered. After the sweet dishes have been partaken of, water and towels are brought in, and a smoke with the water-pipe enjoyed. The cooking of the Canary Islands savours of Spain and Portugal, with the redolence of an old-world native dish cropping np now and again. In Madagascar the ordinary dinner consists of rice, herbs, xviii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS and small pieces of pork, but I have given particulars of a great feast. All the dishes, vegetables, fish, and meats are eaten separately. European cookery is gradually creeping in, much to the displeasure of some of the old native dignitaries. The Samoans cook their food in the same primitive fashion as the natives in Hawaii, but, unlike them, do not make such an elaborate ceremony of their feasts. It is well to know that the old-fashioned dish of Baked Missionary, "long pig," as it is locally called, has been " off" for some years. The native feast in Hawaii (Sandwich Islands), is called a " luau." It usually takes place out of doors, and the table is thus prepared : — First of all rushes are strewn about, and on top of these mats are laid, then " ti " leaves, and on top again of the " ti " leaves, ferns, which may be said to form the tablecloth, for on it are placed plates, calabashes with poi in them, and all the dishes which comprise the feast, also glasses. There are no knives or forks, the guests using their fingers. All the foods are placed on the table at once, even to the sweets. The latter are always served cold. Eaten with the usual dishes are relishes, which are scattered all over the table in little plates. In these plates we find red rock salt, ground kukui nut, dried fish and dried squid, little red peppers and different kinds of seaweed. The latter are very fine in texture, and some varieties have a very fresh and refreshing taste. As to the liquid part of a luau, the aboriginals used to drink the "awa" (made from the root of the kava-kava or piper methysticum), or the skalehau (made from the root of the ti plant). These are now seldom seen. On arrival at a luau, cocktails are served (I use the plural advisedly), and Holland's gin and luau beer flow INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS freely. There is always music at a luau, string and vocal, and the softness and the charm of Hawaiian music defy description. A very pretty custom also obtains throughout these islands, namely the wearing of leis or garlands of flowers, usually carnations. The incomparable climate, the table with its green ferns and innumerable calabashes, the flower-bedecked guests seated on the ground, the music of the singing boys, and perhaps the softer sound of the distant sea, or of the cocoanut palms waving under the warm tropic moon, all combine to form a picture of pleasant memory to anyone who has been fortunate enough to partake, in the Paradise of the Pacific, of a native feast or luau. The Americans are tremendously keen on kickshaws, the variety of their dishes being wide and varied. Many of them are made from materials purely indigenous to the country, such as clams, terapin, canvass-back ducks, etc. Nowadays, however, these can easily be procured from the large stores, professional or otherwise, done up in tins. One would have liked to have given the recipes for preparing the chickens of Maryland, the rooster of Tennessee, the turkeys of the Wild West, and the subtle preparation of the lobster cooked in brandy with tomato and chutney sauce, which insists upon the diner licking his fingers, so seductive is its savour. In the Argentine and Brazil the cooking is much the same as in Spain and Portugal respectively, except that the spices are much hotter. In the first, the real piece de resistance ought to be the " Carne Concuero " (meat with the skin on), but as this means losing the hide of the animal, it is a costly dish. Another dish is very typical, namely " choklos " or Indian corn INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS These are generally boiled and served in the cob, or made into a dish with a sauce, and served with the roast. Amongst the better classes in Mexico, the dishes are diverse in their nature. In the lower stratum, however, beans and crudely cooked meat, with a strong concomitant of dirt are the main factors of sustenance. As one Consul wrote "frigoles'' (cooked beans) is the staple food of the native, and if it were offered here, as usually cooked in that country, he was afraid the server would get " beans." The food in Austria is very German. In Hungary, however, through the Magyars, distinct traces of the Latin's likes and dislikes may be observed. Bulgaria, Roumania, Servia, Portugal and Spain are all more or less homogeneous, their partiality for garlic and paprica being very marked. In Turkey, the service of a good class dinner nowadays is distinctly European in its character. The reclining on divans when eating, and the washing of hands between each course are no longer considered to be ban ton by Beys and Pashas. The nation, however, still clings to its Eastern traditions in the preparation of pilafs, sweet salt dishes, and confections. Greece of to-day is truly an odd mixture of the modern " East and West,'' and few details are now available of her ancient gargantuan banquets. The Russians, Finns, Nowegians, and Swedes have most elaborate appetisers which would provide a dinner in themselves, and are usually served in a room adjoining the dining-room, or at a side table a few minutes before sitting down to dinner. La Belle France still excels in her cuisine, though Germany, xxi INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS Holland, Italy, Poland and Switzerland run her very close. Some extremely good and original recipes will be found under the headings of those countries. Belgium, as "little France," may be considered a reflection of her neighbour in matters culinary, as well as in matters social and otherwise. The German dinners will disillusionise those sceptics who believe that the inhabitants of " Mein Vaterland " exist only on sour kraut, sausages and black bread. In England a few old-fashioned dishes have been given, note specially being drawn to the curious old rhyme for the preparation of the swan, and Sydney Smith's poetical effusion how to prepare a salad dressing. Ireland is, in the cooking world, the same distressful country as it is in matters political, but after much heartburning, the compiler managed to unearth a few out-of-the-way dishes, and with consternation discovered that the appetising and satisfying Irish stew had its creation in another land. Boiled potatoes, eaten with buttermilk, are much partaken of by the poorer classes, but even the squireen does not disdain the appetising dish. Carageen or Irish moss is much sought after by knowing cooks to make many dainty dishes, and is acknowledged to be a strong rival to " Birds Nests " for the concoction of soups of that name so much appreciated by John Chinaman. Varied indeed is Scottish cookery, homely, appetising, and in many cases recherch'e — dishes of the latter class having been acquired from the early associations with France. It is, however, the purely characteristic and typical Scottish dishes that have in the present instance been dealt with — many of which are xxii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS hoary with age, and much trouble and research have been expended in rescuing them from oblivion. The true Scot is catholic to his oatmeal and broth. Dishes more or less re- sembling Scottish broth are to be found pretty well all over the world. The vegetarians or fruitarians must not be overlooked, so a dinner suitable for that cult is provided. In the menus numerous old friends will be found under totally unrecognisable appellations. Many of the dinners are heavy and too ornate for normal tastes, and are from the nature of the case to be regarded as somewhat exceptional in character. These, however, can be simplified by the omission of dishes which may be considered superfluous. Then again the cook who is or who is not an adept in framing bills of fare has a wide field to cull the necessary dishes from different countries to enable him to serve up a rechercM and unique meal. At the end of the series I have put a modest dinner which I think many gourmets will appreciate. The Cap and Gown Club was founded in 1881 for the purpose of affording its members and their guests the opportunity of meeting once a month during the winter for a social meal and an evening of good fellowship, enhanced by music, song, and other kindly entertainment, befitting men of varied sympathies and culture. It was designed to consist of entirely professional men, already likely to be more or less acquainted with each other. The anticipations of its founders were more than justified by the swift success of the Club. Its membership rapidly grew to its present number of nearly 300 members, comprising clergy- xxih INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS men, advocates, lawyers, doctors, artists, musicians, and literary and other professional men. The Association, though not specifically academic, is thus largely comprised of men who have studied at Edinburgh or other Universities. The Club has had the honour of counting as its guests not a few scholars, scientists, thinkers and poets of world-wide fame. The evening's function consists of a "quantum suff" dinner, not too prolonged, followed by a varied round of cheerful conversation, songs and glees, solo and concerted music, pathetic and merry recitations, stories and interludes of many kinds. The Club has no political or other party colouring, and exists only for its periodic social gatherings. It was a Southron who sang : — "We may live without poetry, music, and art, We may live without conscience and live without heart, We may live without friends ; we may live without books ; But civilised man cannot live without cooks.'' The Scottish philosophy repudiates with horror the hideous materialistic maxim "Man ist, was er isst." The Scotsman remains a Scotsman, whether he lives on dough-nut or damper, on bread-fruit or birds' nest soup; and he will be a Scotsman still when he is reduced to pure nectar and ambrosia. The Cap and Gown Club exists to prove that the proper enjoyment of accomplished services of the most cunning cooks — Capulet : " Sirrah, go hire me twenty cunning- cooks ! " Second Servant : "You shall have none ill, Sir." are not to be thought of as possible apart from poetry, music, and art, apart from friends or (ma conscience) heart ! xxiv INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS "And there*will be plenty o' a' thing, To eat and to sup ye could name ; Wi' liquor, baith strong thing and sma' thing, To warm the inside of the wame. The meat wi' the music was trystit ; And, no' to lose time in the ha' The Clerk o' the parishen blessed it, Afore it was roastit ava." I think it may safely be claimed for this series of articles that they are at least something quite out of the beaten track. The compiling of them has given me much pleasure, besides affording me further education on the geography of the world. May I add a hope that I have helped to bring to house- keepers some of the advantages of foreign travel, combined with "a' the comforts o' the Sautmarket," and to wandered Scots — for it would be impossible to gather together in Princes Street a hundred fairly representative Scotsmen of whom a good many had not learnt to eat and drink whatever was offered them, asking no questions for conscience sake, " in aller Herren Landern " — agreeable memories of days and nights spent beneath warmer suns or yet colder stars than those of 55" 57' N. lat, and 3° 11' W. long. /^O^^^fX Edinburgh, 1st June 191 1. CONTENTS page A BALLADE OF DINNER . ii INTRODUCTION TO THE MENUS v-xxv MENUS, &c. :— I. Afghanistan i II. Africa — South 8 III. Algiers r 7 IV. America . 22 V. Arabia 3 2 VI. Argentine . 40 VII. Armenia . • 47 VIII. Asia Minor • S3 IX. Austria . • 58 X. Belgium . . 64 XL Brazil • 74 XII. Bulgaria . 80 XIII. Canary Islands 86 XIV. China — North-West xxvti ■ 9 1 MENUS page XV. China — South-East 105 XVI. Denmark 112 XVII. Egypt . 118 XVIII. England 127 XIX. Finland • 139 XX. France — North 147 XXI. ,, — South • 157 XXII. Germany — North 164 XXIII. ,, — South l 75 XXIV. Greece ■ 185 XXV. Hawaii • 195 XXVI. Hebrew 200 XXVII. Holland . 208 XXVIII. Hungary 219 India — XXIX. Bengal — Hindu . 226 XXX. Bengal — Mussulman . 238 XXXI. Bombay — Brahmin . • 2 45 XXXII. ,, — Mussulman • 253 XXXIII. Burmah 261 XXXIV. Central Provinces — Brahmin . 268 XXXV. ,, — Mussulman ■ 2 75 JCXV11} MENUS XXXVI. Ceylon XXXVII. Kashmir — Brahmin iXXVIII. ,, — Mussulman XXXIX. Madras — Hindu XL. ,, — Mussulman XLI. Mysore — Hindu . XLII. ,, — Mussulman XLIII. Nepal XLIV. Parsee — Fest. XLV. , , — Ordinary XLVI. Punjab — Brahmin XLVII. ,, — Mussulman XLVIII. Rajputana — Brahmin XLIX. ,, — Royal L. Indies — West LI. Ireland LII. Italy LIU. Jamaica LIV. Japan LV. Java LVI. Korea LVII. Kurdistan . PAGE . 282 290 • 295 • 3° r 308 • 315 • 3 22 • 328 ■ 3 22 337 343 • 353 • 363 • 3 6 9 • 378 384 397 . 408 • 4i5 • 4 2 S 43 2 • 436 MENUS PAGE LVIII. Madagascar • 439 LIX. Malay 443 LX. Mexico ■ 45 2 LXI. Morocco . 460 LXII. Norway • 469 LXIII. Palestine — Arab • 477 LXIV. ,, — Hebrew . 481 LXV. Persia • 485 LXVI. Poland • 49o LXV1I. Portugal • 5° 2 LXVIII. Roumania • 509 LXIX. Russia 5i8 LXX. Samoa • 53i LXXI. Scotland • 535 LXXII. Servia • 55i LXXIII. Siam .... • 556 LXXIV. Siberia 567 LXXV. Sicily 572 LXXVI. Soudan • 582 LXXVII. Spain — North • 587 LXXVIII. ,, — South • 598 LXXIX. Syria . XXX . 604 MENUS PAGE LXXX. Sweden . . . -613 LXXXI. Switzerland . . . 626 LXXXII. Thibet . . . .635 LXXXIII. Turkestan . . 643 LXXXIV. Turkey . . . .650 LXXXV. Vegetarian Dinner . 660 LXXXVI. R.H.C.'S ,, . . 671 LXXXVII. Cooking in Paper Bags . . 678 XXXI BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS I.— AFGHANISTAN Menu Sharbat (Sherbet) Shrini (Sweets) Kawah Chai Chai (Cardamom Tea) (Plain Tea) Pillau-i-Barah Kaurmah-i-Ahii (Pillau of Lamb) (Stewed Venison) Kaurmah-i-gusht-i-gusfand Kaurmah-i-Chuchai Murgh (Curried Mutton) (Stewed Chicken) Pillau-i-Habate' (Pillau of Vegetables) Halwa Nashashta (Arrowroot Pudding) Tazeh Mivah (Fresh Fruits) Kawah Chai Chai (Cardamom Tea) (Plain Tea) BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Kakullah Chai. (Cardamom Tea.) Infuse some Indian tea along with a few cardamoms, and at same time put in plenty of sugar syrup. The tea has to be very weak, very sweet, and very strongly flavoured with cardamoms. Two cups have to be taken, thereafter a cup of plain tea is taken to correct the palate. Leavened Brown Bread. Prepare a sponge with four pounds of whole meal (half wheat and half rye), two ounces of butter, a little salt, and three ounces of yeast, and sufficient luke-warm water to make a nice size of dough. Set the dough to rise for one hour ; then knead it well, form it into shapes (if for this country, put into tins), and bake in a good oven If for Europeans all the meal must be wheat. Yeast. Boil half a pound of flour, 2 ounces of brown sugar, and a little salt in one gallon of water for an hour. Remove from the fire, and when blood-warm put it into bottles and close tight for future use. Half a pint will make 9 pounds of bread. Unleavened Brown Breadi Mix well half-ounce . of soda, half-ounce of cream of tartar, with two pounds of whole wheat meal ; put it out on a table or baking board, make a space in the AFGHANISTAN centre, and put into it a teaspoonful of salt, add about a pint of water, then mix all together into a smooth dough, form it into shapes, and bake in a good oven. Omit soda, cream of tartar, and salt for Eastern bread ; if for Afghanistan, use rye instead of wheat. Pilxau-i-Rarah. (Pillau of Lamb.) Slice a couple of onions (medium) and fry in half a pound of boiling butter. Cut two pounds of lamb in bits about the size of a square inch, fry these in the butter for a few minutes ; then put the onions, butter, and meat in a stewpan along with half-a-dozen dried apricots and a handful of pistachio nuts, a teaspoonful each of ground turmeric, cummin, coriander, and half that quantity of ground caraway and cloves, and a large chilli sliced, with salt to taste. Pour in one cupful of water and one of milk curds, and stew very slowly for four hours. Serve in a dish surrounded with boiled rice. Boiled Rice. Wash three cupfuls of rice and plunge into boiling water, and boil fiercely for twenty minutes till rice cooked but firm. Drain off the water very thoroughly and put back into the pot with a good piece of butter, first rubbifig the pot with butter before returning the rice. Place in the oven or at the side of the fire to dry. Turn over the rice occasionally very lightly, so that each grain may be separate. 3 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Kaurmah-i-Ahu. (Stewed Venison.) Cut two pounds of vension into small pieces and fry in half a pound of butter in which you have first fried a couple of minced onions. Place the whole into a pan with six stoned peaches, a cupful of raisins, twelve sweet prunes (stoned), a cupful of pine cone seeds, a teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon, green ginger, sugar, two sliced green chillies, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all well together, and pour in three cupfuls of sour milk and one of melted butter, and stew very slowly for at least four hours. Serve with buttered beetroots and brown bread. Buttered Beetroots. Wash two pounds of beetroots very carefully, taking care not to break the skin, or they will bleed. Boil in salted water with some corriander leaves and a couple of bay leaves and a teaspoonful of whole peppers. When tender, take them out of the water and skin very care- fully. Cut them into nice pieces, heat a pound of butter, and put them into it, and stew for half an hour. When for European cookery, cut them into thin slices, place in a jar and pour boiling spiced vinegar over, and in a couple of days you have pickled beetroot. Pillau-i-Habate. (Pillau of Vegetables.) Boil any kind of vegetables in season, such as potatoes, artichokes, cauliflower, cucumbers, carrots, pumpkins, and vegetable marrows. Strain the vegetables and put to one side. 4 AFGHANISTAN Melt, say, three ounces of butter, and, when boiling, fry two onions sliced very fine, and when brown, but not charred, make the following into a paste, and fry in the butter, viz. : — A teaspoonful each of mustard seeds, turmeric, and chillies, a quarter of a teaspoonful of garlic, and three corriander leaves. When smoothly made into a paste and fried, put in a cupful of milk curd, 6 ounces of butter, and when all is amalgamated pour the whole over the vegetables, which you have first put into another pan. Mix thoroughly, and simmer for twenty minutes. Dish up and surround with rice. Kaurmah-i-gusht-i-Gusfand. (Curried Mutton.) Fry a couple of minced onions in butter. Cut up two pounds of mutton into small pieces and fry in the butter. Place the whole in a stewpan with a teaspoonful each of ground corriander, cummin, cardamoms, green ginger, a point of garlic, and two large red chillies sliced, a dozen stoned sour plums, a handful of raisins, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Stew very slowly for four hours, and eat with new bread, boiled rice, and buttered parsnips. Buttered Parsnips. Thoroughly clean the roots and cut into pieces of about two inches long and half-an-inch thick, boil in salted water, and, when tender, drain and put them into another pot with plenty of butter and stew for half an hour. For European cookery they must be mashed and beaten up with a good bit of butter and some cream. Season with pepper and salt to taste. 5 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Kaurmah-i-Chuchai Murgh. (Stewed Chicken.) Lightly fry two medium-sized onions sliced very thin in half a pound of boiling butter. Remove the onions and fry in the butter a plump chicken ; when brown all over place it in a pan, add the onions, a handful of pounded almonds, four oranges which have been pre- served in sugar syrup, and cut in quarters, a teaspoonful each of ground cardamoms, cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of nutmeg, two bay leaves, two sliced chillies, a tea- spoonful of salt, and quarter that quantity of white pepper. Pour into the pan another half-pound of melted butter and a cupful of milk curds. Cover very closely and stew for at least four hours. Remove the bay leaves and eat with brown bread. Preserved Oranges. Wash and dry half a dozen oranges. Cut a very thin piece out of the rind, about the thickness of a thin cord, as if you were quartering them. Boil them in plenty of water till they are quite tender, then cut them into the quarters already marked off ; cut out the pips and the hard bits of pith ; boil in plenty of strong sugar syrup for half an hour ; let them steep in the syrup for four days, then boil for fifteen minutes, and do this four times ; strain into another pot and add more syrup and boil to a crackling point and pour over the oranges. When cold, tie down very carefully. 6 AFGHANISTAN Halwa Nashashta. (Arrowroot Pudding.) Half a pound of arrowroot, half a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, and one pint of water. Soak the arrowroot in half of the water, when nearly soft drain it, and put it in a pot in which you have brought the butter to boiling point ; stir continually till all the butter is absorbed with the arrowroot. Having made a clear syrup of the sugar and the rest of the water, add it to the mixture and cook steadily, stirring all the time very carefully, but not shaking the pot. When all has col- lected into a mass, lift it with a spoon several times till it is quite free and smooth. It ought to be a soft, solid mass. Eat with all kinds of fruits preserved in sweet syrups. Sharbai. (Sherbet.) Boil the juice of six oranges and one lemon, also the very thin rind of three of the oranges and one of the lemons with an equal weight of sugar for ten minutes. Strain and set to cool on ice ; dilute with a little rose water and fill up with iced water to taste. II.— AFRICA (SOUTH) Menu Biltong (Dried Beef) Kerrie Soep (Curry Soup) Gesmoorde Makreel and Komkommer (Stewed Mackerel and Pickled Cucumber) Swartzuir (Braised Venison and Stewed Parsnips) Bobotee Blatjang (Curried Mince and Savoury Condiment) Gesmoorde Hoender Rys Kluitjes (Stewed Chicken) (Rice Dumplings) Kwartel Kerrie en Patatas (Curried Quails and Sweet Potatoes) Klapper Taart Spritze (Cocoanut Tart) (Sweet Dumplings) Quava Salade Rys Room Koekjes (Guava Salad) (Apricot Rice Cream) (Macaroons) Vruchten (Fruit) Koffee (Coffee) AFRICA (SOUTH) Biltong. (Dried Beef.) Take about six pounds of beef cut in a long tongue shape, out of the hind leg of an ox, from the thigh bone down to the knee joint. Take this meat and quite free it from sinew or fat, rub it with salt, and an hour after rub in well with a mixture of half a pound of salt and the same of brown sugar, and an ounce of saltpetre. Leave for three days, rubbing and turning every day ; then put it under a press for a night. Hang it up to dry in the wind, after which smoke it till dry and quite hard. Cut in very thin slices, and eat with bread and butter. Kerrie Soep. (Curry Soup.) Boil a calf's head in three or four quarts of water, with some onions, and a couple of carrots for six or seven hours. Remove the vegetables and head. Strain the stock into a basin, and leave standing till the next day ; when cold, remove all the fat. Take out the bones from the head, and cut the latter into small pieces. Brown an onion in fat, add two tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of brown sugar, two teaspoonfuls of lemon, and salt to taste, and fry for three minutes. Stir all together in the stock. and boil for a few minutes. Serve in a soup tureen with boiled rice handed round separately on a plate. Gesmoorde Makreel. [Stewed Mackerel. \ Clean and scrape fish, and put in a tin baking pan, with a good spoonful of butter ; dredge with flour, 9 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS pepper, and salt ; add one tablespoonful chopped onion and some parsley, one blade of mace, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, one cup of water. Put the pan into the oven, letting it stew for twenty minutes, and serve with pickled cucumbers. Komkommer. (Pickled Cucumbers.) Two young cucumbers, cayenne, soy, vinegar or lemon, salt, and a spring onion. Peel two young cucumbers, then cut off the green fleshy part, leaving out all the seeds. Cut up this in thin shreds, also some shallots finely shred, a green chilli, a few tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, about a teaspoonful of Indian soy (not the sweet treacly stuff), and the same quantity of anchovy sauce, mix well together. Swartzuir. (Braised Venison.) Three pounds of venison, taken from the thick part of the haunch, one onion, six cloves, twelve peppercorns finely bruised, half a tablespoonful brown sugar, a tablespoonful red currant jelly, salt, a glass of port wine, half a wineglassful of lemon juice, and the blood of a duck. Cut the meat into small fillets about two inches square, and a quarter of an inch in thickness, which put in a stewpan with the onion sliced, and a pint of water. When it has simmered for an hour take out a cup of the boiling stock, skimming the top so as to remove all the 10 AFRICA (SOUTH) fatty particles. Stir into this boiling soup a large cup of fine flour and a seasoning of pepper and salt ; stir well over the fire till it is a thick dough, now set it to cool. When quite cold work into the dough two eggs ; of this make dumplings the size of a walnut, and plump them into a pot of boiling well-salted water. When they rise to the top they are finished. After this cup of soup has been taken from the pot stir into it the blood of a duck, also the spices, sugar, salt, and red currant jelly. Heat up, and stir ; let it boil well so that the gravy is reduced, and a quarter of an hour before serving add the port wine, lemon juice, and the dumplings, and again heat up. Strain, and serve with stewed parsnips, and the dumplings. Stewed Parsnips. Take nice tender parsnips, cut them in round slices, which put in a stewing pot in layers, sprinkling some sugar, flour, and a little butter, and a pinch of salt between each. Pour a pint oi white stock over and simmer for two hours, giving the pot an occasional shake. Bobotee. (Curried Mince.) Two pounds of meat, two onions, a large slice of white bread, one cup of milk, two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of curry powder, a dessertspoonful of sugar, two table- spoonfuls of the juice of one ounce of tamarinds soaked in half a pint of boiling water, six or eight finely chopped almonds, and a lump of butter. 1 1 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Mince the meat, soak the bread in milk, and squeeze out dry. Fry the onions in a tablespoonful of butter. Mix all the ingredients, curry powder, sugar, salt, tamarind juice, etc., with the fried onion. Now mix all with the meat and soaked bread. Mix one egg with the mixture, whisk the other with some milk, and pour over the whole, after being put into little cups with a lemon or bay leaf stuck into each. Put them in the oven to bake, and send to table in the cups. Serve with rice. Blatjang. (Savoury Condiment.) A handful of red chillies ground fine, forty sweet blanched and skinned almonds, a tablespoonful of apricot jam, two small onions shred very fine, a point of shredded garlic, and two bay leaves. A teaspoonful of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Mix all well together, and serve with meats. Gesmoorde Hoender. (Stewed Chicken.) A young fowl, two large white onions, a little nutmeg, white pepper, a green chilli, salt, two ounces butter. Fry your onions a golden brown in a good bit of butter. Then cut the chicken in nice little joints, brown in the butter, first removing to one side the browned onions. It must be done quickly. Then add the onions, a pinch of nutmeg, a dust of pepper, and half a cup of white stock ; let it simmer for an hour Just before dishing, add a green chilli cut up. Toss it about well. Should the chicken look dry, add a little stock. Serve with rice dumplings. 12 AFRICA (SOUTH) Rys Kluitjes. (Rice Dumplings.) Wash and boil one pound of rice as if for curry, only not quite so dry ; let it cool, mix with three spoonfuls of flour, two eggs, and one and a half tablespoonfuls of melted butter ; a little sugar, ground cinnamon, and a pinch of salt ; roll in sugar loaf shapes (about eight or nine from this quantity), dust with flour, and put into boiling water. When cooked they rise to the top. Serve with apricot sauce. Apricot Sauce. Put two ounces of apricot jam, one gill of water, and an ounce of butter in a pan, and when thoroughly mixed and boiled up pass through a sieve. Put back again in the pan with two glasses of sherry and a pinch of sugar. When boiled up, thicken to a thin cream consistency by adding a little Indian corn flour first dissolved in water. KWARTEL KERRIE EN PATATAS. (Curried Quails and Sweet Potatoes.) Cut off the wings of six quails at the first pinion, remove the breast bone, and stuff with bread crumbs, chopped mushrooms, two minced chicken livers, and one ounce fat bacon, season with aromatic spices, and bind together with an egg. Put them in a pot, and on the top of them a large onion very finely sliced. Make a paste of two tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one tablespoonful of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of !3 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS vinegar, mix well, first adding three sliced apples : place the mixture on the top of the sliced onions. Shut the pot very closely, and simmer very slowly for an hour. Then stir all well together, and simmer gently for another hour. No water or other liquid is to be used when cooking. When finished, add a cupful of cream, and two tablespoonfuls of tomato pulp which has been put through a sieve. Serve with sweet potatoes. The curry powder is made of the following : — Two ounces turmeric, one ounce coriander, one ounce cummin, one ounce cardamoms, one ounce cocoanut, one ounce ginger, one ounce cinnamon, quarter-ounce cloves, half- ounce mustard seeds, one ounce large green chilli, a small point of garlic, and a pinch of cayenne. Pound all together, and mix very carefully. Sweet Potatoes. Peel and slice about two or three pounds of sweet potatoes, take half a cup of sugar, half a spoonful of flour, half a spoonful of butter, and a little salt. Slice the potatoes, put into an enamelled saucepan in layers, and sprinkle each layer with butter, sugar, and flour, and when you have put in the last layer pour over it a cup of water. Let it all stew gently, giving the pot a stir occasionally. Klappeu Tart. (Cocoanut Tart.) Grate the white of two cocoanuts, and take the same weight of sugar, add four ounces of butter, a cup of 14 AFRICA (SOUTH) milk, and a seasoning of cinnamon. Boil all together till it is quite stiff. Line a tart dish with puff paste, and pour the mixture in. Bake for half an hour. Spritze. (Sweet Dumplings.) One and a half pounds of flour, five eggs, quarter pound of butter, one bottle of milk. Boil the butter and milk, stir in the flour, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Pour the paste into a dish, and when cold mix five eggs with it ; beat well till it drops clean off a spoon. Let it drop into a saucepan of boiling lard or tat in tiny balls. Fry a nice brown. Serve with sugar and pounded and sifted cinnamon, and some whipped cream. Quava Salade. (Guava Salad.) Nine dozen guavas, one orange, sufficient sugar to sweeten, and one glass sherry. Peel and slice the guavas thinly, lay then on a glass dish, sprinkle a little sugar over ; again guavas, and so on until the dish is filled. Pour over all a glass of sherry and the juice of the orange. Let it stand for a while. Koekjas. (Macaroons.) Take one pound of almonds, blanched and pounded, and one pound of sugar. Melt the sugar and almonds over the fire till quite a tough jelly. Then have ready the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth, whip together IS BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS when cold. Dust some fine cinnamon over, first putting a small piece of preserved citron on every cake. When pounding the almonds add a spoonful of rose water. Rys Room. (Apricot Rice Cream.) One pint milk, one gill cream, four ounces loaf sugar, quarter pound ground rice, one egg, one glass brandy, one ounce of chopped lemon or citron preserve, the juice of an orange. Boil milk, sugar, and ground rice together until the rice is quite soft ; then add the egg, stirring all the time, then the cream and other ingredients. Put into an ice mould to freeze. Serve with the following sauce : — a tablespoonful of apricot marmalade melted in a little hot water, 'and with a good glass of brandy added to it. 16 III.— ALGIERS Menu Cheurba (Stewed Mutton) Taam bel Horour (Couscous) Kefta (Pigeon Rissoles) Tadjim bel Bergoug (Braised Fowl and Eggs) Tadjim bel Beidh (Braised Lamb) Ghezal Messouer (Grilled Venison) Mesfouf (Semolina Pudding) Murabbit Tin Temer (Stuffed Figs) (Stewed Dates) Halouiat Mokhtalifa (Pastry, various) Laban Juyus Laban Gizlan Laban Yujabbin (Goat's Milk) (Deer's Milk) (Cow's Milk) 17 B BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Cheurba. (Stewed Mutton.) Take some nice small fillets of mutton, some halved tomatoes, halved onions, and a good quantity of roughly chopped parsley ; put them in a pan with a little water, with a seasoning of cayenne pepper and salt, and stew very slowly till the meat is tender. Serve with pulled bread. Taam Bel Horour. (Couscous.) To prepare this soup one should have at one's disposal a colander without a handle, fitting closely to the mouth of an earthen stockpot, which is kept hanging by aid of three hooks, so as not, however, to prevent the stockpot from being closed hermetically. Clean three pigeons and a good hen, and put them into a stockpot, with a little salt and two or three quarts of water, observing that the quantity only reaches to three- quarters the height of the vessel. Place it on the fire to bring the liquid to ebullition ; skim it well, and at the first bubbling remove it back. Three-quarters of an hour later add half a turnip, two carrots, half a cabbage, some peas, artichokes, and a pinch of red pepper. One hour afterwards wash half a pound of semolina, put it into the colander, and this over the stockpot, which must shut closely, thus cooking the semolina by the steam. For this purpose the colander should stand a little above the liquid. Continue boiling until the pigeons and hens are done. Pull the meat off the birds, 18 ALGIERS and place in the dish with the couscous and vegetables, and serve altogether. Kefta. (Pigeon Rissoles.) Mince up all the flesh of several pigeons, season with mixed spices, a little garlic, minced parsley, and salt. Bind all together with some flour and eggs, make into small balls and fry in oil. Eat with pulled bread. Tadjim bel Bergoug. (Braised Fowl and Eggs.) Cut a fowl into nice fillets, free of bones and skin. Make a good stock of the bones and skin and place the fillets in and stew slowly, seasoning with a little caraway, cinnamon, red pepper, and salt. Fry and trim neatly some eggs, and place one on each fillet, and eat with bread. Tadjim bel Beidh. (Braised Lamb.) Clean a small lamb, or a boned shoulder will do. Make a stuffing of prunes (soaked in water till plump), rice, some sugar, and aromatic spices. Roast or braise ; if the former, see that it is well basted. Serve slices with a helping of the stuffing and bread. Ghezal Messouer. (Grilled Venison.) Take nice fillets of a young deer. Rub them with peppers, sweet and hot, also salt, and grill. 10 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Mesfouf. (Semolina Pudding.) Put twelve little almonds in one and a half pints of milk, and simmer very gently for half an hour, strain, and put into the milk three ounces of semolina, quarter of a pound of sugar, and three ounces of butter. Bring to the boil, stirring all the time. Remove from the fire, and a couple of minutes afterwards stir in four well- beaten eggs gradually. Pour the mixture into a pudding dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Murabbit Tin. (Stuffed Figs.) Mix together in a saucepan half a pound of loaf sugar, half a saltspoonful of cream of tartar, and half a tea- cupful of water. Set the saucepan on the fire and cook, keeping it closely covered till, when a little of it is tried in cold water, it forms a jelly, then remove from the fire, and let it stand with cover on for ten minutes, and beat it to a smooth stiff cream with a wooden spoon or spatula. When as stiff as very soft dough, turn it out on a paste board and work the inside of some soft figs into it with the fingers. Have ready some figs from which you have removed a good portion of the inside. Fill up the cavities with the cream, and array neatly on a dish. Temer. (Stewed Dates.) Peel two dozen fresh dates, remove their stones, pound their pulp, and pass it through a sieve ; give sugar to this puree, add a few drops of extract of roses 20 ALGIERS or lemon, spread it in a layer on a pie dish, and mask the puree immediately with a stiff sauce of good arrowroot or rice flour, prepared with milk, perfumed with orange or lemon. Halouiat Mokhtalifa. (Honey Tartlets.) Make some good puff paste into tartlets, and fill with honey and chopped raisins. Almond Cakes. Make a good sweet puff paste, and mix in some chopped almonds cut into diamond shapes, and fire in oven. Dust with fine sugar. IV.— AMERICA Menu Clam Soup Tomato Soup Stewed Terrapins Oyster Omelette Souffle Calf's Feet Chicken Pot Pie Boiled Stuffed Turkey and Cranberry Sauce Roast Canvas-Back Duck Hominy Croquettes and Baked Sweet Potatoes Pumpkin Pie Strawberry Pudding; Apricot Cups Peach Ice-Cream Crab Savoury Fruit AMERICA Clam Soup. Twenty-five clams (fresh or tinned) , one quart of milk, three potatoes, two tablespoonfuls of butter, two table- spoonfuls of flour, salt and pepper. Pare and chop the potatoes, and put them on to boil with the milk in a double saucepan. Rub the butter and flour smoothly together, and when the milk and potatoes have been boiling for fifteen minutes stir them in, and boil for eight minutes longer. Add the pepper and salt, and, last of all, the clams. Boil three minutes longer, and serve. Tomato Soup. Four pounds of fresh tomatoes or two tins, two pints of hot water, and one pint of clear veal stock, four tablespoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of butter, two teaspoonfuls of salt, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, and two cups of cream. Let the tomatoes and water come to the boil. Rub the flour, butter, and a tablespoonful of the tomato together. Stir into the boiling mixture along with the cream, add a seasoning of pepper, a grate of nutmeg, and a large bay leaf. Boil all together for fifteen minutes, rub through a sieve, and serve with diamond-shaped slices of bread fried to a delicate golden colour. Stewed Terrapins. To the meat of about two large or four small terrapins add one teacupful of sherry and one breakfastcupful of ^3 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS port, one teacupful each of currant or similar fruit jelly, one dessertspoonful nearly full of Worcester sauce, a little cayenne pepper, quarter teaspoonful of mustard, and salt to taste. Stew all these together, and just as the meat is cooked stir well in one breakfastcupful of pure fresh cream : as soon as the cream gets hot, and well mixed with the dressing, serve it. Oyster Omelette Souffle. Eighteen oysters, six eggs, four tablespoonfuls of milk, one half-tablespoonful of butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Beat the whites of the eggs separately to a stiff froth ; they must be stiff enough to stand alone. Stir in lightly the yolks, which have been beaten with the milk and seasoning. Cut the oysters into small pieces, add them to the mixture, and pour the whole into the omelette pan, in which you have already melted the butter. The pan must be very hot when you pour the mixture in, and you must cook it for several minutes without stirring, only slipping a knife round the edges to make sure it is not burning. When the centre is set, place the pan in the oven long enough to stiffen, but not brown the top. Then fold, and serve quickly. Curried Calves' Feet. Blanch and boil with some vegetables, fine herbs, pepper and salt, three calves' feet. Drain, bone, cut them round with a cutter, and place them in a stewpan with two dozen mushrooms previously cooked. Moisten AMERICA them with a little veloute sauce finished with two table- spoonfuls of sweet chutney (finely chopped) and the pulp of three good-sized tomatoes, half a pinch of cayenne, and a pinch each of cinnamon, coriander, and cummin. Let them simmer for a quarter of an hour, and thicken the sauce with a liason of two yolks of eggs. On the other hand, blanch half a pound of rice, boil it in broth, keeping it firm ; when dried, thicken it with a piece of butter, and a pinch of grated parmesan cheese. Season and form it into a buttered border, mould, pressing it slightly ; keep it thus for ten or twelve minutes, then turn the border out on a dish, and fill the centre with the stew, and finish with the juice of two lemons. Chicken Pot Pie. A fowl, one quart of flour, one pint of milk, two table- spoonfuls of butter, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, pepper and salt. Joint a fowl into eight pieces. Boil it in enough water to cover it, until almost tender. Put a table- spoonful of salt into the water when it is half done. Make a crust by mixing the flour with the milk, butter, baking-powder, and a saltspoonful of salt. Roll lightly, and line a well-buttered pudding-basin with it. Put in a layer of the chicken, season it with salt and pepper, dredge with a little flour, then other layers of the chicken until the basin is full. Cover with the crust, tie a cloth over the top, and boil slowly for an hour. BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Boiled Turkey and Cranberry Sauce. Singe, draw, wipe the inside, and bone - a tender turkey, weighing about sixteen pounds. Dust the inside with a little pepper and salt. Mince very fine four pounds of lean raw veal, six pounds of fresh fat pork, and a pound of bacon, seasoned with a teaspoon- ful of salt, two pinches of white pepper, two thirds of a saltspoonful each of grated nutmeg and thyme. Cut in inch squares half a pound of the red part of a cooked smoked tongue, and three dozen medium- sized chestnuts. Mix them thoroughly with the force- meat, two wineglassfuls of Madeira wine, a breakfast- cupful of pine cone seeds, or peeled pistachios. Cut away even slices from the breast of the bird, put these , on the thin parts, so that it has an equal thickness all over. Put the forcemeat right in the centre, column shaped, leaving a clear space of two inches at the ends, and of four inches at the sides. Fold up both ends, then the sides, and lay it in the centre of a wet napkin, roll it carefully in this, tightly tie the ends, put it in a large pot, with the bones and trimmings, completely cover with cold water, place the lid on pot, and when coming to the boil, skim thoroughly, then add one large grated carrot, two peeled onions, with three cloves stuck in each, a saltspoonful of salt, and boil on a gentle fire for two and a half [hours. Strain, and reduce the stock to a demi-glaze, dish the turkey, without the cloth, pour a portion of the sauce over, and serve the rest in a sauceboat, along with cranberry sauce and baked sweet potatoes. 26 AMERICA Galantine. Keep rolled up till cold, then remove cloth, and brush over with strong glaze. Cranberry Sauce. Pick over and wash a quart of cranberries, put them on with a cup of water in an enamelled saucepan, and boil for half an hour, or until the cranberries are the consistency of marmalade. Stir in a cup of sugar, bring to the boil, remove all scum, and serve when cold. Orange Punch. Melt half a pound of sugar in a quart of luke-warm water. Squeeze out the juice of two lemons and two oranges, add the grated rind of one orange, and mix with a wooden spoon. Strain through a tammy cloth into a freezer, and freeze for thirty-five minutes. Now add, while in the freezer, a half-gill each of claret and cider, and one tablespoonful each of kirsch and maras- chino. Mix well with a wooden spoon, and freeze for fifteen minutes. Whip to a stiff froth the whites of three eggs, stir this in and turn the freezer smartly for two minutes, and fill into tall glasses and serve. Maraschino. Oil of bitter almonds, 3 minims ; essence of vanilla, 12 minims ;- jasimine extract, "^24 minims ; raspberry essence, 2 minims ; oil of neroli, 2 minims ; oil of lemon, 27 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS 3 minims ; spirits of nitrous ether, 24 minims ; spirit, 62 over proof, 24 ounces; sugai, 25 ounces; rose water, 2 ounces ; and 17 ounces plain water. Mix the oils, etc., with the spirit ; dissolve the sugar in the water by bringing to boiling point, so as to re- move scum. When cold add rosewater and spirits. Roast Canvas-back Duck. Procure two fine fat canvas-back ducks, pick, singe, draw well, and wipe them, throw a light pinch of salt inside, run in the head from the end ol the neck to the back, truss them, and place in a roasting pan. Sprinkle over a little salt, put them in a brisk oven, and cook for eighteen minutes. Arrange on a very hot dish, untruss, throw two tablespoonfuls of white broth into each duck, and serve with six slices of fried hominy, and garnish with celery and watercress, and currant jelly on a dish. Baked Sweet Potatoes. Thoroughly wash some sweet potatoes, place them in the oven, and bake. Sprinkle a little salt over them, and serve. Hominy Croquettes. Soak half a pound of hominy in boiling water for an hour, then put it in a lined stewpan with about one quart of milk, and stew until tender. Put in one ounce of butter and a beaten egg, season with salt and pepper. 28 AMERICA Mix it thoroughly off the fire, and turn into a basin. When cold, shape hominy into balls about the size of eggs, dip in beaten egg, and roll in breadcrumbs. Fry in boiling fat till equally browned, drain, and serve with piquante sauce. Piquante Sauce. Clean and cut up very fine one onion, half a carrot, three mushrooms, reduce them in three tablespoonfuls of lemon, and fry them brown in two tablespoonfuls of oil or one ounce of butter, and half an ounce of flour, in a pan ; then stir in half a pint of brown stock, adding a bunch of fine herbs, a bay leaf, twenty-four coriander seeds, two cloves, two inches of cinnamon, and one sliced chilli. Simmer for half an hour. Season with salt, a little cayenne, and strain through a fine cloth. Crab Savoury. Two pounds of crab after it is opened, one table- spoonful each of sherry and brandy, one gill of cream, two eggs (yolks only), two tablespoonfuls of butter, salt and cayenne pepper. Heat the crab in the chafing- dish with the butter ; add the other ingredients ; season, and, last of all, when thoroughly hot, add the beaten yolks of the two eggs. Serve at once. Pumpkin Pie. Take half a quart of stewed pumpkins which have been passed through a sieve, five eggs, whites and 29 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS yolks beaten separately, one quart good milk, half teaspoonful of cinnamon, the same of nutmeg, and of sugar three quarters of a cup. Beat all together till fairly light and perfectly smooth, pour into a deep pie- dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Strawberry Pudding. Four eggs, two ounces soft sugar, two ounces ground almonds, two ounces stale cake or bread-crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of cream, an ounce of candied cherries, two gills of preserved strawberries, one ounce of shredded citron peel, and one ounce melted butter. Place the strawberries in a deep china dish, lightly buttered. Separate the yolks from the whites of the four eggs, place the yolks in a basin and the whites in an egg bowl on the ice. Briskly beat the yolks and sugar to a cream, put in the almonds, mixing thoroughly as they are being added, and the cake or bread-crumbs very gradually. Whisk up the whites of the four eggs to a stiff froth, which stir gradually and lightly with the other preparation, add the cream and butter, mixing well while doing so. Place the preparation into the dish containing the strawberries. Arrange the cherries nicely on top. Bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with whipped cream. Apricot Cups. One pint of milk, two and a half cups of flour, two eggs, one tablespoonful of melted butter, half a tea- 3° AMERICA spoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Apricots as required. Beat the eggs until light, add the milk, salt, and flour ; beat thoroughly, then add the melted butter and baking-powder. Grease some small cups, half fill with the batter, put into each cup a half apricot, cover with batter, dust with castor sugar, stand the cups in a baking- pan half filled with boiling water, and bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. Serve hot with sweetened cream. Peach Ice-Cream. Make a custard by putting the milk in a saucepan, bringing it to boiling point, and then pouring it very gradually over the yolks of the eggs and the sugar. Add a pinch of salt. Return to the saucepan, and add the cornflour dissolved in a little cold milk. Boil until of the consistency of thin cream. Remove from the fire, and add the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. When cold, add the flavouring, and freeze. V.— ARABIA Menu Shurbit Khaskhas (Cuscus Soup) (Oemlet) Kebab (Roast Mutton) Fitir bi al-Battikh (Baked Stuffed Melon) Khaskhas (Cuscus) Gibnah wa Urz (Cheese and Rice) Makhlut Khudarat (Mixed Vegetables) Pulio bi al Kumbur (Pilau of Quails) • Murabbit Tin Murabbit Balah (Stuffed Figs) (Stuffed Dates) Urz wa Laban (Rice and Milk) ARABIA Shurbit Khaskhap. (Cuscus Soup.) The " cuscus " (cooscoocpo) is a sort of semolina, or paste of wheat, prepared thus by the Arabs. (The usual semolina makes a good substitute.) Take some good wheat (grain) ; cleanse it well, and wash it in several waters, until the epidermis be some- what tender ; then gather it into a heap on a smooth table, cover it with a damp cloth, and expose it for several hours to a burning sun, that is until the grain swells ; then remove the cloth, spread the corn in a thin layer so as to dry quickly and shrivel in the heat of the sun. In such a state grind it between two millstones, according to the usual process ; but notice that the stones be distant enough to bruise the wheat without pulverising. Winnow it afterwards, to extract the bran and flour which may remain. To prepare this soup, one should have at one's dis- posal a colander without a handle, fitting closely to the mouth of an earthen stock-pot, which is kept hanging by aid of three hooks, so as not, however, to prevent the stock-pot from being closed hermetically. Cut the half of a leg of mutton, off the knuckle end ; put it into the stock-pot, with a good hen, a little salt, and four or five quarts of water, observing that the water only reaches to three-quarters the height of the vessel ; place it on the fire to bring the liquid to ebulli- tion ; skim it well, and at the first bubbling remove it back. 33 c BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Three-quarters of an hour later add one onion, two leeks, a few carrots, and a pinch of pimento powder. One hour afterwards, wash a pound of " cuscu= " put it into the colander, and this over the stock-pot, which must shut closely, thus cooking the " cuscus " by the steam. For this purpose, the colander should stand a little above the liquid. Continue boiling until the meat and hen are done ; then pass the broth through the napkin into the soup tureen, and serve. Khaskhas. (Cuscus.) The Cuscus having been prepared as in th 1 ; recipe for broth, serve it in a deep dish, and the meats at the -same time on another dish, surrounding them with vegetables. Igga . (Omelet.) Slice half a new onion, put it into a frymg-pan with oil ; fry it without allowing it to take colour, and add to it the flesh of one large cucumber ; after having broiled it a few minutes to remove the skin, add also a good tomato, peeled, freed of pips, and cut in small dice. Season the preparation with salt, and a little cayenne ; reduce the moisture of the tomatoes. On the other hand, rub the bottom of a kitchen basin with a clove of garlic, the yolks and whites of six eggs, which let fall into the kitchen basin ; season, and beat well up together with a whisk. Pour half a tablespoon! ul of oil into an omelet-pan ; when hot, pour the egg in ; 34 ARABIA thicken the omelet slightly and add to the preparation ; when set, turn it in the pan, leaving it flat ; baste it again with a little oil, and a few seconds after slip it on a round dish. Kebab. (Roast Mutton ) Cut up, in squares, two pounds of the meat of a loin of mutton ; place them in an earthen pan, mixing an equal number of thick slices of sheep's tail fat ; season with salt and pepper, powdered coriander and cinnamon ; sprinkle over some sliced onion, and add the juice of a few lemons, ; after which allow them to macerate for a few hours. Then run the squares of mutton through with a skewer, alternating each with a square of fat, and fresh mint, basil, and bay-leaves. Roast the meats. When done, take them out on a hot dish, and pour over some sour cream. Serve with bread. Fitirjbi al-Battikh. (Baked Stuffed Melon.) Cut the stalk part off a melon, leaving an opening about three inches in diameter (the stalk part will after- wards be used as a lid), and scoop out all the seeds and part of the inside. Finely mince two onions and suffi- cient mutton to fill the melon. Put the mince into a deep frying-pan, with a lump of butter, and fry till brown. Then put in two tablespoonfuls of washed and dried rice, the same quantity each of blanched and skinned almonds and pistachios, one tablespoonful of washed currants, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, then take it off and stuff the melon with it, fix the stalk-part on again, and fasten it down with a few small wooden skewers or pins. Lay the melon in a baking dish, put it in a moderate oven, and, when nicely baked, serve on a dish, with bread. Gibnah wa Urz. (Cheese and Rice.) Wash a quarter pound of rice in several waters ; put it into a saucepan with enough cold water to cover it, and when the water boils pour it off and add to the rice half a pint of milk, and let it stew very slowly for twenty minutes. Grate a quarter pound of hard dry cheese ; then take a flat dish and rub it thoroughly with oil, put on that a layer of rice, sprinkle over this some of the grated cheese, shake on to that a little salt and pepper, now add another layer of rice, then grated cheese, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper, and so on, rice and cheese alternately, till all is on the dish. Then put on the top half an ounce of butter cut in small pieces, and put the dish in a Dutch oven in front of the fire till the top is nicely browned. Makhlut Khudarat. (Mixed Vegetables.) Peel and wash some carrots and turnips, and cut them like olives. Cut some French beans into small diamond- shaped pieces. Take equal portions of the above veget- ables, with an equal quantity of freshly-shelled young peas, and half the quantity of soaked beans, a few 36 ARABIA potatoes cut in pieces, and a handful of spinach. Boil them all separately in salted water. Thicken a breakfast- cupful of milk with flour, and stir it over the fire till boiling ; then mix with it about half a teacupful of common stock and half an ounce of butter, and then move the saucepan to the side of the fire. Beat the yolks of two eggs, strain them, and stir them gradually into the sauce, turning the spoon one way only. Season with salt, pepper, and some grated horse-radish. When the vegetables are cooked, drain them, pour over the sauce, and serve with bread. PulacTbi al-Kumbur. (Pilau of Quails.) Bone and stuff six quails with a good forcemeat, seasoned with onion, caraway, and cinnamon. Wrap a large vine leaf round each, then a thin slice of fat bacon, which should be secured with a small wooden skewer. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, place it over the fire until it has melted, then put in the quails over a slow fire, turning them occasionally. More butter may be added if the above quantity is not sufficient to cook the birds in. Thoroughly wash half a pound of rice, throw it into a saucepan with plenty of water and a lump of salt, and boil quickly for ten minutes without stirring. At the end of that time drain the water off the rice, cover it with fresh cold water, which drain away also. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and cover the rice with a thick folded cloth. Put a quarter pound of butter in a frying pan over the 37 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS fire, and let it melt. Peel and thinly slice a small onion, put it with a bay leaf into the butter, and stew slowly until soft. Dust a small quantity of white pepper into the butter, when well flavoured with the onions, strain the butter into the rice, also the cooking butter and gravy of the quails, stirring to mix well. Put the quails on a hot dish, turn the rice over them, and serve. Murabbit Tin. (Stuffed Figs.) Make a thin syrup of one pint of water and half a pound of loaf sugar. When skimmed and boiled clear, put into it one dozen large whole dried figs, and let them get hot through. Remove the pan from the fire, and then let the figs soak in the syrup for twenty-four hours. Put six ounces of loaf sugar, a quarter saltspoonful of cream of tartar, and a half teacupful of cold wate* into a saucepan, and boil it till, when a little of it is tried in cold water, it forms a soft jelly. Take it from the fire, let it stand closely covered for ten minutes, and then beat it into a smooth cream with a spatula. Have ready a quarter pound of sweet almonds blanched and thoroughly dried, grated, stir them into the creamed syrup together with a small quantity of essence of almonds and a little nnelv-cut citron. Cut a slit in the side of each fig, and stuff this paste into them, lay them on a dish, and dredge with sugar. Let them stand in a warm place for a few hours to dry slightly, and they are ready for use. ARABIA Murabbit Balah. (Stuffed Dates.) Mix together in a saucepan half a pound of loaf sugar, half saltspoonful of cream of tartar, and half a teacupful of water. Set the saucepan over a moderate fire and cook, keeping it closely covered, till, when a little of it is tried in cold water, it forms a jelly. Then remove immediately from the fire, let it stand covered for ten minutes, and beat it to a smooth stiff cream with a wooden spatula. When as stiff as a very soft dough, turn it out on a paste-board and work it with the fingers. Have ready some fine dates, carefully stoned, fill the cavities with the cream, arrange them in a heap in the centre of a glass dish, and serve. Urz wa Laban. (Rice and Milk.) Wash a pound of rice, which put into a stewpan with cold water, half cook it, drain, and finish cooking in deer's milk ; keep it on the fire till very tender, but not in pulp ; add sugar at the last moment. When done, range it on a deep dish, smooth the surface of the rice, sprinkle over powdered cinnamon, mixed up with a little sugar. 39 VI. —ARGENTINE Menu Tajadas de Melon (Sliced Melon) Matambre Lenguas (Cold Rolled Beef) (Cold Tongue) Sopa-Cola de Terneros (Calves'-tail Soup) Pescado-Raya con Salsa Blanca (Boiled Skate and White Sauce) Empanadas (Meat Turn-overs) Carbonada a la Criolla (Stewed Meats) Tortilla de Haba con Salsa de Tomate (Haricot Bean Omelet) Puchero a la Criolla (Boiled Fowl and Vegetables) Asado (Grilled Beef) Dulce de Leche con Almendras (Milk and Almond Cream) Huevos Quimbos Cabellos de Angel (Custards) (Angel's Hair) Fruta (Fruit) Cafe (Coffee) 40 ARGENTINE Matambre. (Cold Rolled Beef.) Matambre is the thin piece of flesh over the ribs and running into the flank, and has to be cut off with a little fat along with it. Spread it out on an ashet, and sprinkle salt and pepper (not cayenne) and pieces of hard-boiled egg over it. Leave it for twenty-four hours, then roll it up, and tie it tightly with string. Leave it two days and then boil it till tender. Serve it in slices, cold. Lenguas. (Cold Tongue.) Trim off the coarse part of the root. Rub the tongue with salt, sugar, and pounded allspice, and let it lie in this for a week, rubbing every day. Rub dry and put in a pot of water and bring to the boil, skimming carefully, and boil for an hour. Then put in the pot a bunch of fine herbs, two bay leaves, and a sliced head of celery. Place to the one side of the fire and stew slowly for another hour. Remove the skin and shape it as desired. Then glaze and cut in thin slices. Sopa-Cola de Terneros. (Calves'-tail Soup.) Plot in boiling water six calves' tails, scrape off the hair, cut each of them in two, blanch and refresh them in water, drain them well, and sponge them on a cloth. Mince one onion and one leek, fry them in butter with nearly half a pound of raw ham cut in dice, add to this the calves' tails, leave them on the fire for a while, sprinkle over them two tablespoonfuls of flour, fry them a few 4i BANQUETS OK THE NATIONS seconds more, and moisten by degrees with two quarts of broth ; add to the above one carrot, a piece of celery, and a bunch of parsley and aromatics. Bring the liquid to the boil, stirring with a spoon, then remove the stewpan back, to let the soup simmer gently until the tails be done. Now drain, trim, and range them in a soup tureen in which you have placed some cooked vermicelli ; then pour the liquid in, after passing it through a colander. Pescado-Raya con Salsa Blanca. (Boiled Skate and White Sauce.) Take the skate, scale and clean, and cut in handy pieces. Cook them in boiling water with a little vinegar, parsley, and pepper. Remove skin and bones carefully, seeing that the pieces of fish are kept whole. Put them on an ashet, and serve, with a good white caper sauce poured over. White Sauce. Break the butter in small bits, and put it into a small saucepan, with cream, sweet milk, or a mixture of either, in the proportion of a small spoonful to the ounce of butter. Dredge a little flour over it, and, holding the vessel over the fire, toss it quickly round till the butter melts into the consistence of a very thick cream. Let it boil up and no more. Any additions in the nature of flavourings can be added to this. 42 ARGEN 1'INE Empanadas. (Meat Turn-overs.) Make a good dough of flour, milk, eggs, suet and salt. When ready, take a piece sufficient for one person. Roll it with a roller in an oval form, and put in the centre the minced meat. Then double over the dough in equal parts, sticking the edges with water. When ready, double the edges over all round, so that the meat does not escape. Then place in the oven till cooked. The Mince Is made as follows : — Take a piece of cooked mutton ; cut it, and mince it very small ; put in olives (without the stones), yolks of hard-boiled eggs, salt, mixed spices, a little red pepper, and a few stoned raisins. Carbonada a la Criolla. (Stewed Meats.) A pound of the gigot of mutton does very well for this. It should be cut into small thin slices, and placed in a stone jar in layers, alternating with chopped vege- tables, such as onions, carrots, turnips, French beans, soaked dried beans, peaches, sliced pumpkins, potatoes, and the grated rind of a lemon. Season each layer well with mixed spices, pepper, salt, and a suspicion of cayenne pepper, and a pounded clove of garlic. Pour over all two teacupfuls of water and one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, cover the jar, and put into a slow oven to stew for three or four hours. Arrange the meat and vegetables neatly on a dish, with a border of rice, and serve hot. 43 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Tortilla de Haba con Salsa de Tomate. (Haricot Bean Omelet.) Wash and prepare one pint of haricot beans by steeping them into a saucepan of water, and boil them until perfectly soft ; take them out, mash them up with one breakfastcupful of milk, and rub the whole through a fine sieve into a basin. Mix 'in four tablespoonfuls of finely sifted breadcrumbs, the yolks and whites of eight eggs, beaten separately, and salt and pepper to taste. Turn the omelet, when well mixed, into a buttered pan, and bake in a moderately hot oven for from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. Serve on a hot dish with thick tomato sauce. Puchero a la Criolla. (Boiled Fowl and Vegetables.) Select a young fowl (taking care to have it perfectly white), singe and draw it, remove the breastbone and well wash it inside. Wash and clean one pound of rice, and boil it in good consomme; when it is sufficiently cooked, and quite thick, sprinkle part of it with pepper and salt, and put it in the inside of the fowl, turning in the rump to prevent the rice from coming out when being cooked. Tie round with layers of bacon, and place in a pot of boiling water with chopped vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, onions, French beans, Indian corn, soaked dried beans, cabbage, pumpkin, mushrooms, &c, and a few stoned raisins, with the grated rind of half a lemon ; season with salt and a pounded half clove of garlic 44 ARGENTINE mixed with the other vegetables. Have enough boiling water in the pot to cover all. Let it simmer gently from two to three hours. Cut and arrange the meat and vegetables neatly on a dish, with a border of rice, and serve hot. After clearing the stock it can be used as a broth (Caldo) along with some of the vegetables, Asado. (Grilled Beef.) Take a part of the back ribs and flank of beef, and grill it, or roast before the fire, and serve with potatoes and roasted (not boiled) pumpkins. This bit of beef should really be cooked with the hide on ; but in Britain this piece of extravagance would not be thought of. Dulce de Leche con Almendras. (Milk and Almond Cream.) Take two quarts of milk, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, and half a pound of almonds. Put the milk to boil in a pan ; peel the almonds and pound them thoroughly, putting them in the milk at the same time as the sugar. Leave it till it is ready, cooking on a slow fire, and stirring constantly, and only in one direction. The Dulce de Leche should be light brown and rather thicker than treacle. Huevos Quimbos. (Custards.) Take nine eggs and half a pound of sugar. Beat the yolks well. Take fittle moulds with a little butter and 45 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS put a spoonful of this into each. Put into the oven till they get golden brown, and then put in the syrup for half-an-hour ; (water added to the sugar to make a thick syrup). Cabellos de Angel. (Angel's Hair.) Cut a ripe melon into very fine strips about the thick- ness of thick whipcord, then place them in a dish, and pour over some honey. 46 VII.— ARMENIA Menu Pirindj Tchorbassi (Rice Soup) Kuzi Rostossi (Roast Lamb) Baklava (Pastry with Honey) Elma Composto (Stewed Apples) Hind Taouk Rostossi (Roast Turkey) Bamia Haiwa (Stewed Okras) (Stewed Quinces) Yalandji Dolma (Rice Timbales) Adjem Kiftassi Kimali Beurek {Mutton Croquettes) (Rissoles of Chicken) Sudlash Khoshab (Rice Pudding) (Stewed Raisins) Peinir (Bread and Cheese) Fakihat (Fruit) 47 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Pirindj Tchorbassi. (Rice Soup.) Prepare two quarts of good mutton stock ; melt in an enamelled pan two ounces of butter, then put in one small cucumber, peeled and finely sliced, one large stock of lettuce, or two small ones, finely shred ; cook for ten minutes, being careful to keep them from brown- ing. Mix one tablespoonful of flour with a little of the stock, add to the vegetables, then all the stock, with the addition of four cupfuls of boiled rice, and simmer all together for fifteen minutes. Kuzi Rostossi. (Roast Lamb.) If you cannot get a whole young lamb, take a fore- quarter ; take out first, all the ribs, then the breast-bone ; slit up and take out the shoulder-blade, then the shank- bone to the first joint. Make a good stuffing of boiled rice and the minced liver. Season with chopped onions, pepper and salt ; stuff the shoulder well, and sew up so that stuffing may not escape. Roast about an hour and a half, basting it well with some melted butter and its own dripping. Serve with bread. Baklava. (Pastry with honey.) Take six ounces of wheat flour and fry in six ounces of butter. Then make a syrup of six ounces of sugar and put fifteen grains of essence of lemon in it. When it becomes very thick, spread it on a big plate, and when cold make a hollow in it and put the fried flour therein, 48 ARMENIA also the butter. Grease your hands and spread the whole over a big plate. When the plate is all covered, wrap it together, and pull it with both hands into thin threads, and then roll the threads into rolls two fingers in thickness, and one in length. Place them in the oven to brown, and pour over hot melted honey. Elma Composto. (Stewed Apples.) Pare and core half a dozen medium - sized apples. Sprinkle well, and fill up the hole with sugar. Put in a closed jar with a little water, and put in a hot oven for half an hour. Serve with syrup. Hind Taouk Rostossi. (Roast Turkey.) Stuff a young turkey with a mixture made of boiled rice, a handful of sultana raisins, half a handful of pine cone seeds (pistachio nuts will do), and some pounded roasted chestnuts moistened with a little milk, and put in where the crop was taken out ; sew it up, and put a large skewer through the wing, the under side of the thigh, and the body, to the thigh and wing of the other side ; press down the legs and put another skewer through them, down the side of the vent ; have a piece of tape, put it firmly round the turkey, and fasten it on the point of each of the skewers, to keep the skin of the bird from giving way ; fix a piece of paper upon the breast of the turkey, and put it to roast before the fire for a hour and a half. When the steam draws 49 D BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS towards the fire it is nearly done. Dredge with flour, baste with butter, dish it, and pour the gravy over. Serve with bread. Bamia. (Stewed Bamia.) Clean the vegetable and put some in with a pound of meat cut in small pieces. Season with pepper and salt and a little vinegar. Stew slowly till cooked, and serve with bread. Brussels sprouts boiled to a pulp may be substituted. Haiwa. (Stewed Quinces.) Take three pounds of quinces. Pare, cut in halves, and remove the seed. Make a syrup of two pounds of sugar and the same weight of water, and after it is clear by careful skimming put in the fruit, and simmer for two or three hours, or till quite tender. Serve cold. Yalandji Dolma. (Rice Timbales.) Mix some uncooked rice (which has been steeped for two hours and then well-washed) with olive oil, and season with pepper and salt, grated cheese, and the pulp a of fried tomato. Roll the mixture in vine leaves. Place them carefully in a stew-pan and boil till cooked. When taking them out be careful not to break them. When cold, pile them neatly on a dish, and serve with lemons. 5° ARMENIA Adjem Kiftassi. (Mutton Croquettes.) Take one pound three ounces of minced meat and let an eighth part of it remain uncooked. Have some pieces of onion fried in butter, and when they become of a brown colour have the meat also fried in it, and put some water in so that the meat may be boiled. When this is done take it out, and put some salt, pepper, ground ginger, almonds, and onions in it, then grind the eighth part of the meat which was kept uncooked and mix it with the fried meat. Put in two ounces of cream and two eggs with the meat, then make into little rolls about the length of two inches and diameter of a two-shilling piece, and have them fried in butter, and serve with bread. Kimali Beurek. (Rissoles of Chicken.) Make some good puff paste, which roll out very thin, and wrap pieces round balls of a mixture made of chopped cooked chicken seasoned with pepper, salt, ground onion, and a suspicion of caraway, and bound with a good white sauce made of milk, butter, and flour. Bake in the oven. Sudlash. (Rice Pudding.) Wash some rice well and soak in water for two hours, and then fry it in clarified butter. The butter should be equal in weight to the rice. When the rice is'fried take some sugar double in weight to the rice ; 5 1 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS boil it, and mix the syrup with the boiled rice. Pour some raisins and some pounded cinnamon in the mixture, and cook till the moisture is gone. Khoshab. (Stewed Raisins.) Soak some table raisins till swollen and quite soft. Then put on the fire in the same water, and cook till tender. Eat cold. 5 2 VIII.— ASIA MINOR Menu Chorba (Broth) Rosto (Roast Chickens) Baluk (Fried Fish) Shiftah Composto (Stewed Peaches) Kuftes Umurta Dolma (Minced Balls) (Stuffed Eggs) Etll BeobrSk Khiyer (Lamb Croquettes) (Stuffed Cucumbers) Badem Beobr6k (Almond Pastry) Pilaf (Savoury Rice) Kayfe (Coffee) 53 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Chorea. (Broth.) Take all the trimmings of lamb, mutton., fowl, all the necks, feet, gizzards, bones of fowl, pigeons, and a good shank of mutton. Chop all into small pieces, cover with cold water, and let it boil. Skim, add carrots, cabbage, onions, and two vegetable marrows, all cut in pieces, a bunch of fine herbs, some peppercorns, and salt. Boil all together very slowly for four hours. Strain, and when quite cold, and the fat firm, take the latter off. Heat the cleared stock and put in some small (about the diameter of a shilling) highly-spiced meat balls (any kind of meat), some very fine rice previously boiled, and when the balls are cooked put in lemon juice and some pieces of hard boiled eggs, and serve. Rosxo. (Roast Chickens/ Clean fat, tender chickens, and stuff them with a farce of boiled rice, chopped nuts, raisins, salt, pepper, and a pinch of cinnamon. Roast in the oven till finished. Serve portions of chicken and stuffing, and eat with bread and pickles. Bai.uk. (Fried Fish.) Make a batter of flour, oil, pepper, and salt ; dry some fillets of fish, dip them in the batter, and fry in oil. Serve with salad made of lettuce dressed with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, and eat with bread. 54 ASIA MINOR Shiftah Composto (Stewed Peaches). Skin some peaches, cut them in halves, and stew in a strong syrup of sugar till the fruit is quite clear. Serve cold. Kuftes (Minced Balls). Take one pound three ounces of minced mutton, and let the eighth part of it remain uncooked. Have some pieces of onion fried in butter, and when they become of a brown colour fry the meat in it ; add some water and boil till tender. When this is done, take it out and put in some salt, one teaspoonful of cardamoms, one teaspoon- ful of cumin, a pinch of caraway and a good pinch of pepper, all ground together. Then grind the eighth part of the meat which was kept uncooked, and mix it with the fried meat, the ground condiments, and a considerable quantity of minced parsley, and make all this into small balls. Put them in a pan along with a little Water and two ounces of butter, and stew very slowly. Garnish the dish with sliced hard-boiled eggs and lemons. Serve with bread and pickles. Umurta Dolma (Stuffed Eggs). Boil some eggs hard (seven minutes). Cut the ends off and carefully remove the yolks. Make a mixture of boiled rice, finely-ground meat (the latter previously fried in butter), the yolk of the eggs, pepper and salt. Fill the eggs with this, put the tops on, and fix with eggs and flour, and cook in butter. Serve with bread and pickles. 55 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Etli Beobrek. (Lamb Croquettes.) Mince some fat lamb, and cook it in a little water very slowly ; add water from time to time as needed. Flavour with salt, pepper, cinnamon, and a minced onion. Make a very good rich pie-crust and roll into large squares till as thin as paper. Place three layers one on the top of the other. On the third spread a layer of the meat, and moisten with melted butter and a little of the liquor the meat was cooked in. Then three layers of crust again and another of meat, moistening as before. Continue this until there are six layers of meat and eighteen of crust. The top is deeply scored in diamonds with a sharp knife and melted butter poured over. You then cut it into small squares and bake in a moderate oven. Serve with pickles and salad. Khiver. (Stuffed Cucumbers.) Take some cucumbers of about the same length. Peel, cut off one end, and take out the seeds. Lay them on a drainer and sprinkle with salt, and let them drain. Make some good forcemeat and season with ground turmeric, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, onion, pepper and salt, and stuff the cucumbers with it. Put them in a saucepan and cover with sour cream. Boil slowly till tender. Dish, strain the liquor, and pour it over the vegetables, and serve with bread. 56 ASIA MINOR Badem Beobrek (Almond Pastry). Make a rich puff paste, roll out into thin sheets as thin as paper about eighteen inches square. Place three layers on the top of each other, then a layer of cleaned and roughly chopped almonds and powdered sugar. Repeat this till you have twenty-seven layers of puff paste and nine layers of almonds, the top being of puff paste, which cross with a sharp knife and brush over with melted butter. Cut this into small cakes, square or diamond shape, and cook in a moderate oven. Pilaf (Savoury Rice). Boil some rice quite dry and stir in a good quantity of hot melted butter. Peel and cut some tomatoes in halves, sprinkle them with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and fry in plenty of butter. Mix with the rice. 57 IX.— AUSTRIA Menu Leberknodel Suppe (Soup with Liver Dumplings) Gebacken Seezunge mit Spargel Spitzen (Baked Sole) Schopsen Schlegel ine Winekraut Gedunskt (Braised Lamb and Braised Cabbage) Beinfleisch mit Rothen Ruben (Boiled Beef and Horse-radish Sauce) Gespickten Hasenrucken und Linzer Knodel (Roast Saddle of Hare) Nudel Fleckerln mit Zimmet (Cinnamon Cakes) Kaiser Kiichen (King's Cakes) Frucht (Fruit) 58 AUSTRIA Leberknodel Suppe. (Soup with Liver Dumplings.; Put lour or five pounds shin of beef and a little salt into two gallons of water, and bring to the boil. Skim very carefully and boil for two hours. Then put in the pot a sliced carrot, half a sliced turnip, a couple of halved onions with two cloves stuck in each, some pot herbs, a celery root, a parsley root, also some pepper- corns, and more salt. Boil for another hour, strain and return the soup to the pot, put in a carrot and onion cut in slices. Whip the whites of two eggs in a bowl with some of the soup, and add to the soup, stirring all the time. Let the whole simmer gently at the side of the fire, stirring occasionally. In half an hour's time strain through a tammy-cloth into the tureen and serve with liver dumplings. Liver Dumplings. Mince, pound, and pass through a sieve, one pound of calf's liver, and a bit of fat ham the size of an egg. Mix this with four eggs and half a cup of cold water, seasoning with a pinch of nutmeg ; pepper and salt to taste. A little onion juice is not objectionable. Work in sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Mix with fried croutons the size of small dice, and drop into boiling salted water from a spoon which you wet each time before using. Before finally finishing, try a small piece in boiling water, and if too soft add some more flour, and if too stiff add another egg and water. 59 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS May be served in clear soup, as an entree with white sauce, on toast soaked with butter, or, as in Germany, with " Sour Krout." Gebacken Seezunge mit Spargel Spitzen. (Baked Sole and Asparagus) . Fillet two nice soles and fry in butter till just half cooked. Butter a baking dish and place the fillets in a circle on it, leaving a space in the centre of the dish. Spread fresh bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, on top of the fish, and bake in the oven. Have ready some boiled asparagus tops, which heap up in the centre of the fish, and pour over the asparagus a little good white sauce made of flour, butter, milk, and some chopped capers. SCHOPSEN SCHLEGEL INE WlNEKRAUT GEDUNSKT. (Braised Lamb and Braised Cabbage.) Put a small leg of lamb in a pan along with two sliced carrots, and some small (pickling) onions, pepper and salt. Stew very gently till the meat is tender. When finished, place it in the centre of a large dish, and sur- round it with white cabbage braised in white wine. Braised Cabbage. Take a large white cabbage and shred it very fine, and mix with it a finely shred onion, salt, pepper, and a little sugar ; steam till tender. Now put it in a pot, in layers with pieces of bacon between, two or three 60 AUSTRIA sliced apples, and a tumblerful of Chablis or white sour wine. Simmer very gently for an hour. A few minutes before finishing pour in a good glass of the wine. Re- move the bacon and serve with any braised meats or birds. Beinfleisch mit Rothen Ruben. (Boiled Beef.) Take two pounds of the best part of the brisket, and boil till tender (but not thready), with two whole onions, two bay leaves, four cloves, pepper and salt. Cut meat into nice slices and place neatly on a dish, and garnish with slices of pickled beetroot and roughly grated horse-radish sauce. Horse-radish Sauce. Boil two tablespoonfuls of good wine vinegar with a roughly grated root of horse-radish, a cupful of the stock in which the beef was boiled (any kind of reduced broth will do), three lumps of sugar, and three grated almonds. Serve in a sauce-boat. If to be served cold do not cook the root. It is an improvement if the sauce is made and covered up for at least an hour before serving. Gespickten Hasenrucken und Linzer Knodel. (Roast Saddle of Hare and Potato Dumplings.) Cut the legs and head off, lard the back very freely with fat bacon, and roast in the oven, basting continually 61 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS with sour cream. When finished, free the gravy from all fat, and put it in a pan with some good stock, a sliced onion, a bay leaf, a little thyme, a few peppercorns, and reduce to half its bulk. Strain and finish with half a dessertspoonful of vinegar and a large cupful of sour cream, and salt to taste. Serve with potato dumplings. Potato Dumpltngs. Grate a raw potato and steep in water for an hour ; dry twice in clean cloths. Mix with it two large steamed floury potatoes. Pass them both through a fine sieve. Work in a couple of eggs, with a little pepper and salt, a pinch of thyme, and some flour. Fry some croutons the size of dice in butter. Make round balls the size of a large egg with the dough and a few of the croutons, and pop into boiling salted water ; when they rise to the top continue the boiling for twenty minutes and dish. Nudel Fleckerln mit Zimmet. (Cinnamon Cakes.) Make a dough of one pound of flour and a little water. Work in three eggs and knead well. Roll out several times and hang on the back of a chair for half an hour to dry. Cut into two-inch squares about a quarter of an inch thick, and put into boiling milk well sweetened with sugar. When wanted take them out with a drainer. Put them on a dish, pour melted butter over them, and dust with powdered cinnamon, cloves, and castor sugar. 62 AUSTRIA Kaiser Kuchen. (King's Cake.) Make a dough in a bowl with one ounce of yeast, two ounces flour, milk, and water, which let stand in a dish of hot water till well risen. Mix three quarters of a pound of flour with half a pound of butter, three ounces castor sugar, three eggs, a little salt ; drop in a little water to make into dough Now add the above yeast dough, one or two more eggs, and more butter if wanted. Let it stand in a warm place all night to rise. Then put it in a tin form which has been well buttered, and bake in the oven. It is an improvement to brush the top rather thickly with melted butter. It should be about two inches in height — rather more than less. Take out of form and dust castor sugar on top, and serve with vanilla sauce. Vanilla Sauce. Boil some Indian corn flour with water and sugar to the consistency of thinnish cream, season with vanilla essence and half a glass of Marischino. X. —BELGIUM Menu Consomme aux Legumes (Clear Soup with Vegetables) Creme de Chicoree aux Quenelles (Cream of Endive with Liver Quenelles) Saumon Dunkergne (Stewed Salmon) Filets de Soles Ostende (Cold Fillets of Soles) Filets de Pigeons (Fillets of Pigeons) Langue de Boeuf a la Bruges (Braised Ox-Tongue) Rave Farc6 (Stuffed Turnips) Capon a la Flammande (Braised Fowl) Tarte aux Pommes Cateau Riche (Apple Tart) (Rich Cake) Peche Glace (Peach Ice) Dessert (Fruit) 64 BELGIUM Consomme aux Legumes. (Clear Soup with Vegetables.) Clean, peel, and cut into small thin dice two carrots, two turnips, and one onion shred very fine, and half of a small cabbage. Put two ounces of butter into a pan, and when hot fry the above vegetables in it till a lightish brown ; now put in a teaspoonful of sugar, and shake over the fire for a couple of minutes. Put the vegetables on a drainer, and when dry put them in a pot containing two quarts of good clear beef stock and a pint of water ; bring to the boil, skim carefully, and simmer at the side of the fire for an hour. Wash and pick a small handful of sorrel and chervil leaves, which mince roughly and put in the soup. Cook for other five min- utes, removing any scum which may rise. Take the crust of half a French roll, which cut in dice ; slightly brown in the oven or in front of the fire. Put these in a tureen and pour the soup over. Creme de Chicoree aux Quenelles. (Cream of Endive with Liver Quenelles.) Clean thoroughly four heads of endive, cut them across transversely, plunge them into boiling salted water, and boil for ten minutes ; drain and put them into cold water for a minute, press the water out and chop them up ; place it in a stewpan with a bit of butter till all the moisture is reduced, put in a little salt and pepper, and shake in a very little flour. Pour in a quart of boiling broth and a gill of cullis, and stir until it again boils, add a pinch of sugar ; simmer gently at the side of the 65 E BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS fire for half an hour. Pass the whole through a sieve, and bind with the yolks of four eggs, and finish with a piece of butter. Serve with liver quenelles. Liver Quenelles. Chop four good chicken livers, and mix half the quantity of chopped veal, kidney suet, and the same quantity of white bread crumbs which have been soaked in milk and squeezed dry. Chop all together till well mixed. Put this into a basin and add two whole eggs, and the yolks of other two, and a pinch of flour. Cook a small portion to see if it is all right. Divide it into small balls about the size of a small walnut ; roll very lightly in flour and pop into a pot with boiling salted water, put on the lid and boil for ten minutes ; if they float test, and if not ready boil till they are. Place them in the tureen and pour the soup over. Saumon Dunkekgne. (Stewed Salmon.) Butter a deep tin, in which lay a sliced carrot, a sliced onion, and some fine herbs. Place four nice slices of salmon about an inch thick on top of these, and pour in some white wine to the top of the slices. Cut a lemon in slices, free of rind and pips, and put on top of fish ; cover with buttered paper, and steam in the oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. Strain the liquor and thicken it with some powdered biscuits and two spoonfuls of lobster cullis. Boil for two or three minutes and pour over the fish. Serve with boiled potatoes. 66 BELGIUM Filets de Soles Ostende. (Cold Fillets of Soles..) Fillet two nice soles, dry them, and dust with a little pepper and pounded fine herbs. Spread on them a thin layer of red herring roes which have been mixed with a little raw forcemeat. Roll the fillets up and tie with a piece of thread ; place them in a buttered shallow tin, and pour in a little white wine, and cook in the oven till the moisture is nearly evaporated. Remove them from the oven and stand till cold in their own liquor. When cold, remove the thread and cut them in slanting slices, and dust with some seasonings. Place them round a salad of vegetables, masking them with a little crayfish cullis. Serve with vegetable salad. Salad of Vegetables. Boil in separate waters potatoes, beetroot, and carrots. Cut up into small pieces along with some celery, pickled gherkins, salted cucumbers, also cut small ; add also a few capers. Make a dressing of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, and mix, and stand for a couple of hours before serving. Filets de Pigeons. (Fillets of Pigeons.) Take out the fillets of three pigeons, remove away the sinewy skin, and the minion-fillets,{y?are, beat them lightly with the blade of a knife, and put them on the larger fillets, which season with nutmeg, coriander and caraway ; place one beside the other, in a flat stewpan, with clarified butter, and cover them with buttered paper. 67 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS With the trimmings of the fillets, the meat of the iegs, and an equal volume of poultry flesh, prepare some " quenelle " forcemeat ; when ready, take up six table- spoonfuls of it, put them on a floured table, and roll each spoonful into the shape of a pear, flatten them with the blade of a knife, to give them the form of a fillet of pigeon, place them evenly in a small buttered sauce-pan, and poach them in boiling water ; drain and let them cool ; dip them in the batter, mixed up with cooked fine herbs and aromatic spices, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and smooth them with the blade of a knife. When ready to serve, put the fillets of forcemeat into a flat stewpan with clarified butter, and colour them on both sides ; fry at the same time the fillets of pigeons on both sides ; as soon as set drain the butter off, pour over them three tablespoonfuls of glaze, mixed up with a little Madeira ; let it boil, and draw the stewpan off the fire ; then dish the fillets up in a circular order, alternated with the fillets of forcemeat ; fill the centre with a puree of chestnuts, and pour on the bottom of the dish, and over the puree a little good Flemish sauce. Flemish Sauce. Knead two ounces of fresh butter with an equal quan- tity of flour, to which add an onion, some sprigs of parsley, a little shred carrot, and a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, and a little mignonette pepper ; moisten with half a pint of cream and the same proportion of good consomme. Stir the sauce on the fire till it boils, and, after having 68 BELGIUM kept it boiling for twenty minutes, pass it through the tammy into a bainmarie, containing the red part of a carrot, some parsley stalks and roots, and some horse- radish, the whole of which should be previously cut in small diamonds and blanched ; finish by mixing in a small spoonful of tarragon vinegar and three or four green Indian gherkins cut into shreds ; make the sauce hot and serve. Langue de Beouf a la Bruges. (Braised Ox-Tongue.) Put some cut vegetables in a stewpan, and place a mildly pickled ox-tongue on top ; put in a little stock and cook slowly till tender. Remove the skin. Cut it in thin slanting slices, put on a dish, mask with ham cullis, and garnish with little heaps of stewed cabbage, carrots, and turnips, small pieces of lean ham, and slices of small smoked sausages. Cullis of Ham. Take a stewpan, put in it three pounds of veal cut like dice, then take three pounds of ham, take off the sward and the fat, and cut it into slices well shaped, then put them in a stewpan with your veal, and a couple of carrots cut in two, and a couple of onions ; cover your stewpan and stew it very gently over a slow fire at first, and when you see the meat begin to stick to the pan, uncover it and turn your slices of ham that they may take a colour ; then take out the ham and the veal, put in your stewpan a lump of butter and a little flour, 69 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS and stir it well with a wooden ladle; moisten it with good broth, not salt, and put in again your veal and ham, and season it with lemon slices, some garlic, cloves, a blade of mace, and some glasses of champagne or other white wine ; go on thickening your cullis with stock cullis, and skim off the fat ; when done, take out all your meat, strain off all your essence in a silk strainer, and use the same with all sorts of meats and hot pastry made with meat, or fish dressed with gravy. Put again your slices of ham into the essence to make use of them on several occasions — -viz., being cut into dice, in putting over a piece of beef or artichoke bottoms, and, when cut into slices, for chickens, young fowls, or what you think fit. Rave Farce. (Stuffed Turnips.) Take half a dozen small white turnips, peel and make into a good shape, cut off one of the ends and hollow out the centre. Parboil them, after which take out more of the pulp, leaving a thinnish case. Meanwhile half cook some Brussel sprouts in water. Strain and return to the pot with a good bit of butter, some pepper, and salt. Stew till quite soft. Pass this through a very fine sieve along with a third of the quantity of mashed potatoes. Return all to the pot, and heat up with some good cream. Fill the turnip case with this mixture, and place them in a sauce-pan with some butter, and braise till finished. They will repuire frequent basting to keep them from drying up. Mask with green cullis. 70 BELGIUM Green Cullis. Take peas, boil them in a small kettle with good broth : take a piece of veal, a piece of ham, with an onion cut altogether into small dice, and put them to sweat very gently over the fire ; being a little clammy, moisten them with your soaking broth, season it and let it stew softly ; take parsley, the tops of green onions and spinage, of each a handful, and after they are picked, washed, and blanched in boiling water, squeeze them well and pound them, then take them out of the mortar and pound the peas. Your meat being stewed, take it out of the cullis with a skimmer, take the fat off the cullis ; let it be of a good taste, and mix your peas and the tops of green onions with it, and so strain it off. This cullis may be used with all sorts of green soups. Capon a la Flammande. (Braised Fowl.) Take a nice plump capon, and stuff it with mushrooms tried in butter. Put it in the oven and half brown it. Put it in a casserole with a slice of ham on top, adding after half cooking in a stewpan a pint of green peas, a dozen small onions, a small finely-shred lettuce, a bunch of fine herbs, a little salt, a pinch of sugar, three ounces of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of water. Hermetically seal the top of the casserole, and cook in the oven for three quarters of an hour. Serve in the casserole with potato souffles. Potato Souffles. Clean and cut some potatoes square, and cut into slices one-eighth of an inch thick. Steep them in cold 71 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS water for a few minutes, then dry them thoroughly with a cloth, and plunge into your fat, which is not too hot. Gradually increase the heat till the potatoes rise to the top of the fat. Drain them and plunge into another pot of fat which is at its greatest heat. Dish, and strew some salt on top. Tarte aux Pommes. (Apple Tart.) Mince four good apples, free from skin and core, and put into a pan with butter. Toss them on a brisk fire, add sugar, and reduce the moisture. As soon as suffi- ciently done, without being in a pulp, put them in a tart dish, smooth them with the blade of a knife into a dome shape, and let them cool. Make a cream of two eggs, two ounces of flour (half wheat and half rice), the same of sugar, a little salt, and flavour with almond essence ; pass all through a fine sieve, add two ounces of butter, and cook till it thickens, stirring continuously. Spread this evenly over the dome of apples, and over the cream ; put a thin coating of meringue. Decorate with a piping bag. Sprinkle over a little sugar, and push into a very slow oven for twenty minutes. Peche Glace. (Peach Ice.) Pass half a dozen ripe peaches through a fine sieve, add the juice of a couple of lemons, and sugar syrup to taste. If too thick add a little water, and freeze in the usual way, 72 BELGIUM Gateau Riche (Rich Cake.) Ten ounces flour, half a pound butter, five eggs, one teaspoonful baking powder, half a pound castor sugar, quarter pound sultanas, one ounce angelica or pistachio nuts, quarter pound almonds, quarter pound cherries, three ounces candied peel, rind of one lemon, a little nutmeg. Cream the butter and sugar, then add one egg and a little flour ; beat again, and so on, adding one egg and flour till all are in. Then mix in fruit, etc. ; add powder last. Bake in a well greased papered tin until nearly browned and firm. Try with a skewer, and when baked, slip on to a wire sieve till cold. Cut in finger lengths, and cover tops with white soft icing coloured and flavoured to taste. For British table do not use icing. Sultana Cake. Make exactly as above, only using one pound of sul- tanas instead of the other fruits. Plum Cake. Make the same as Rich Cake, substituting currants for angelica or pistachio nuts and stoned raisins for cherries. This cake is all the better of half a glass of brandy. Madeira Cake. Make the same as Rich Cake, leaving out all fruits. The grated rind of a lemon is an improvement. 73 XL— BRAZIL Menu Puchero a la Criolla (Oxtail Soup) Peixe Guisado (Stewed Gurnard) Carne 'Secca e Fejoues (Dried Beef and Black Beans) Carne Ananda (Fillets of Mutton) Galinhag'einada com Arroz (Stewed Chicken and Rice) Fritadas de Banana (Banana Fritters) Moz Polo (Walnut Cake) Fruta (Fruit) 74 BRAZIL Puchero a la Criolla. (Oxtail Soup.) Take a pot and put it on the fire with water, noticing that the quantity be in proportion to the meat to be used ; put in the meat, which should consist of the thicker parts of the tail and bits of ribs of beef cut across, with a little salt, and leave it till it boils and skim it. If the soup is not clear put in a little cold water, and after it boils skim it again. Then put in onions, French beans, cabbage, dried beans, pumpkin, parsley, bits of bacon, and some bits of sausage, a bunch of fine herbs, and some celery, more salt, and a little cayenne pepper. After the vegetables have boiled put in some rice (previously soaked for two hours), and when it has swollen take the pot off the fire. Serve with the vegetables and pieces of the tail and rib meat cut in neat pieces. Peixe Guisado. (Stewed Gurnard.) Cut the fish into slices and place in a stewpan with sliced Spanish onions and tomatoes ; pepper and salt, Pour over them two wineglassfuls of stout port wine, with same quantity of salad oil, a tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, and a little cayenne. Stew gently until the onions are quite cooked, then pour in a break- fastcupful of nicely boiled rice, and serve. No water to be used. 75 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Carne Secca. (Dried Beef.) Soak two or three pounds of dried salted beef till the brine is well washed out. Put it in a pot of water and boil steadily (being careful to skim away any fat or dirt that may rise) till three-quarters cooked, then put in some onions, carrots, cabbage, green peppers (pimen- tas), a little black pepper. Finish cooking. Dish the meat and surround with some of the vegetables, putting some of the stock in a dish. Serve with fricassee of beans. Fejoues. (Fricasse of Beans.) Blanch and skin one quart of well-softened black beans, put them into a saucepan with one breakfast- cupful of water or veal broth, and add a small bunch of sweet herbs, a little each of mace, grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, and one wineglassful of white wine. Cover over the saucepan, and cook gently for fifteen minutes, then remove the bunch of sweet herbs, and add a small lump of butter kneaded with flour, tossing it about in the pan until it is dissolved and the liquor thick. Put the yolks of two eggs in a basin, pour in one breakfast- cupful of cream, and beat well together. Add them to the saucepan, and stir it in one direction until the liquor is quite thick and smooth. Remove the pan from the fire, add the juice of half a lemon, turn the fricassee on to a hot dish, and serve. If dried beans are used, they must be soaked in salt water for ten or twelve hours, and then boiled until they are tender, when the skins will easily come off. 76 BRAZIL Carne Anada. (Fillets of Mutton.) In a deep stewpan place a piece of butter — say two ounces — and melt it ; when in a liquid stats put in sliced Spanish onions, potatoes, and two or three tomatoes, and a clove of shredded garlic, with pepper and salt to taste. Lay on the top thin slices of lean mutton, cover it up and allow it to stew gently for about thirty minutes until the ingredients are cooked, then add a tablespoonful of Chili vinegar. Allow it to simmer for a few minutes longer. No water must be used- Serve with potatoes cleaned and roasted. Galinhageinada com Arroz. (Stewed Chicken and Rice.) Pluck and draw a fowl, rub it well with salt, and leave it for a few minutes. Wash the heart, liver, and gizzard of the bird, finely chop them, and put them in a frying- pan with a lump of butter. Wash half a breakfast- cupful of rice, put it in with the liver mixture and half a teacupful of pistachios, the same quantity of well- washed currants, salt and pepper, and a small quantity of powdered cinnamon to taste, and a couple of roughly chopped apricots. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, then moisten it with two or three table- spoonfuls of water, and continue stirring until the moisture is all absorbed and the rice partly soft. Stuff the fowl with the mixture, and fry till browned; then drain off the butter, moisten to height with clear chicken broth, and keep it boiling gently at the side of the fire until the bird is tender. When cooked place it on a hot dish, and serve in a dish of rice cooked in brown stock. 77 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Fritadas de Banana. (Banana Fritters.) Cut them down the middle and then in halves. Put them in a basin together with plenty castor sugar and two or three tablespoonfuls of brandy, and leave them for an hour or two, afterwards draining them on a sieve. Warm and beat two ounces of butter ; beat also the yolks of two eggs, mix them together with the butter in three-quarters of a pound of flour, and stir in gradually with a wooden spoon sufficient tepid water to mix the whole into a smooth batter. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them lightly with the batter at the last moment. Dip the pieces of banana into the batter, coating them thickly, and fry in boiling fat until nicely browned. Drain, and pile up neatly on a dish, and serve. Moz Polo. (Walnut Cake.) Beat four ounces butter to a cream ; add by degrees four ounces sugar and half a teaspoonful of vanilla essence. Beat again till very light. Stir in four ounces of chopped walnuts. Whisk the whites of four eggs very stiff, add a little of this with a little sifted Vienna flour into the creamed butter and sugar, and beat con- tinually till all the egg and two ounces of flour have been used. Add half a teaspoonful of baking powder, and pour the mixture into a buttered baking dish lined with buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven. . When cold, cut into pieces the size of two fingers, cover with a soft white icing sugar, and ornament with dried 73 BRAZIL walnuts. (A chestnut cake can be made in the same way, only you will decorate with Marrons glace.) Icing. Pass four ounces of icing sugar through a sieve, and then put in a lined saucepan, add one and a-half table- spoonfuls of cold water by degrees, and stir over a moderate fire until the mixture is warm and quite smooth ; if heated too much the icing will be spoilt. 79 XII.— BULGARIA Menu Soupa (Meat Soup) Agneshka Yahnia (Ragout of Mutton) Pestarva Yahnia (Stewed Trout) Pile Petchene s' Oris (Braised Fowl with Rice) Zele Yahnia (Stewed Cabbage) Yarebitza Petchena (Braised Patridges) Omlets Sladko (Sweet Omelet) Oroshtia (Fruit) Kafe" (Coffee) 80 BULGARIA Soupa. (Meat Soup.) Wash a brace of partridges and a hare, and put them into a. saucepan with six quarts of cold water. When boiling, move the saucepan to the side of the fire, skim the liquor, and let it simmer for an hour ; then take out the hare and partridges, and cut all the meat from the bones. Return the bones to the soup, and simmer for two hours longer, cut the flesh of the partridges and hare into nice sized pieces, and fry them in butter till well browned ; then take them out of the pan, drain, and put them on a plate. Slice four onions, put them in the pan in which the meat was fried, adding more butter if necessary, and try them till nicely browned ; then put them in the soup along with a bunch of fine herbs and one pound of carrots and turnip. In two hours time strain the soup, put it again in the saucepan, and put in the fried meat and some small pieces of carrot and turnip that have been cooked in clear water. Mix three tablespoonfuls of ground rice with one breakfastcupful of water to a smooth paste, then mix it gradually in with the soup ; season with salt and pepper, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Add game liver balls and meats to the soup, and boil it gently for twenty minutes longer. When ready to serve, turn the soup into a tureen. Game Liver Balls. With the livers of the hare and partridges, one teacup- ful of stale crumbs of bread, one egg, and one teacupful 81 F BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS of thick butter milk, prepare a quenelle forcemeat, first mashing the livers, then mixing with them the bread and milk (which should have been boiled together) and the egg unbeaten ; add a little lemon juice, season to taste with pepper and salt, and shape the mixture into small equal sized balls. Fry the balls in boiling butter till nicely and equally browned. Agneshka Yahnia. (Ragout of Mutton.) Cut one pound of lean mutton into small pieces, put them into a deep frying-pan or stewpan with a small quantity of fat, and fry them, adding salt and pepper to taste and a small quantity of water. Now add about one pound of French beans, carrots, and some shred cabbage, and simmer gently until cooked. Turn it out on a dish, after which make the following sauce :-- Balkan Sauce. Put a slice of raw ham cut into small pieces into a saucepan with one wineglassful each of white wine and stock, one mushroom, a small bunch of herbs, and a sprinkling of cumin and pepper ; reduce over the fire until the liquor is half its original quantity, then strain it through a fine sieve. Put a small lump of butter into another saucepan warm, it, and mix in a little flour ; stir well until it is quite smooth, pour in a little stock, and reduce this to half its original quantity, add the first sauce, pieces of mutton and vegetables, and neat up ; but do not boil. 82 BULGARIA Pestarva Yahnia. (Stewed Trout.) Clean and scale three or four large trout, put them into a saucepan, pour over two breakfastcupfuls of boiling vinegar, which will turn them blue, add an equal quantity of white wine, and pour over sufficient water to cover them. Add one onion stuck with cloves, one carrot, half a head of celery, four bay leaves, a small bunch of parsley, one teaspoonful of peppercorns, and sufficient salt to taste ; set the saucepan on the fire, and boil for about fifteen minutes with the cover on. Take out the fish when done, drain them, put them on a nap- kin on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with oil and vinegar, or any fish sauce, in a sauceboat, also with plain boiled potatoes. Pile Petcheno s' Oris. (Braised Fowl with Rice.) Draw a fowl and break the breastbone with a knife. Fry a chopped onion in a saucepan with a little chopped fat bacon, add one breakfastcupful of well-washed rice, cover it with gravy, and boil till the rice is dry ; then take the stewpan from the fire, and add a little finely chopped raw ham and one pinch of pounded pimento. Stuff the fowl with this preparation, and truss it as for boiling. Put six ounces of butter in a stewpan, then put in the fowl, cover the breast with thin slices of fat bacon, put the lid on the pan with some red hot cinders on the top, and stand it over a moderate fire. When the fowl has browned all over, add half a pint of white wine and a small piece of glaze ; put the lid on again, with some more live embers, and finish 83 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS cooking. Fry some ham (cut in small pieces) and toma- toes, adding pepper, salt, a clove of garlic, a bunch of parsley, and a little grated nutmeg ; drain off the fat, put the ham and tomatoes in the stewpan with the fowl, and leave them for ten minutes. Then dish the fowl (having taken off the strings), arrange the bacon, ham, and tomatoes round the dish, and serve. Zele Yahnia. (Stewed Cabbage.) Trim off the outer leaves of the cabbage, wash it thoroughly in plenty of water, then cut it into four pieces. Put the cabbage into a saucepan of boiling water with a lump of salt and a small piece of charcoal, and boil it slowly until tender. When cooked turn the cabbage into a colander, and drain it as much as possible. Put a lump of butter, about two ounces, into a stewpan, melt it, put in the cabbage, dredge small quantity of flour over it, pour in half a pint of thick sour milk, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Put the pan over a slow fire, and stir gently with a wooden spoon until the milk is nearly reduced. When cold, press out all the moisture, add one teacupful of cream to a quart bowlful of cabbage, and season with salt and pepper. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying pan over the fire, and let it get smoking hot ; then put in the cabbage, and brown it quickly on the under side. Turn it at once upside down on a hot dish, and serve. Yarebitza Petchena. (Braised Partridges.) Clean and truss a brace of partridges. Put in a pan a good bit of butter, a sliced onion, a piece of ham, a 84 BULGARIA sliced carrot, and the partridges on top. Fill the pan with good stock half up to the birds, and add a bunch of savoury herbs, a large bay leaf, some mild red pepper, and a little salt when nearly finished. Clear the gravy and stir in a cup of very thick sour cream and the same quantity of cullis of partridge, place all on the fire and finish cooking. Serve with fried potatoes and dressed salad. Cullis of Partridge. Pound roasted partridges ; take a piece of veal cut into slices, with a bit of ham, put these into a stewpan with onions, and a carrot cut into bits ; stew until it sticks, then moisten with good broth and gravy ; season with a slice of lemon, a little sweet basil and mushrooms, and again stew very softly. This done, strain, skim the fat well off (let it be of a good taste), and mix your par- tridges with it, together with a ladleful of stock cullis ; strain, and use it with any soups or stews. Omelet s' Sladko. (Sweet Omelet.) Beat up eight eggs and add a little finely chopped lemon peel and a little castor sugar. Melt a good-sized piece of butter in a frying pan, or omelet pan, pour the beaten egg in, and fry both sides a light brown. Have ready a hot dish well sprinkled with castor sugar, score the omelet in lines like a herring-bone by holding a red- hot poker close to it ; dish, sprinkle castor sugar over, and serve with any melted preserve poured over, flavoured with creme de menthe, or with thick sour milk whipped to a foam in a sauce boat. 85 XIII.— CANARY ISLANDS Menu Aperitivo (Appetisers) Sopa de Mariscos (Fish Soup) Pescado en Escabeche Sardinas Frescas (Pickled Fish) (Fried Sardines) Lascas Puchero Gofio (Fillet of Beef) (Stew) (Roast Maize) Palomas Salvajes-Ensalada (Wood Pigeons and Salad) Tomates de Huevos (Tomatoes and Eggs) Cabellos de Angel Torta de Almendras (Stewed Melon) (Almond Tart) Queso de Flor (Cheese) Fruta (Fruit) 86 CANARY ISLANDS Aperitivo. (Appetisers.; A liqueur glass of old rum. Periwinkles pickled in vinegar. Sliced sausage strongly flavoured with garlic and olives. Sopa de Mariscos. (Fish Soup.) Take the trimmings and bones of any white fish. Put them in a pot of water with a carrot, half a turnip, a leek or two, a couple of sliced onions, a head of celery, a couple of bay leaves, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper and salt, and half a tumblerful of red wine. Boil and skim care- fully. Then boil for a couple of hours. Clear and strain. Add more water if the stock is too strong. Add some shelled shrimps, mussels, and pieces of crayfish. Add additional seasoning if necessary, also a half-tumblerful of white wine, and bring once more to the boil, and serve. Pescado en Escabeche. (Pickled Fish.) Take some very fresh mackerels ; skin and bone them. Divide into neat pieces of about two inches long. Make a pickle of vinegar and olive oil (three tablespoonfuls of each), a chopped onion, a couple of bay leaves, a pinch of saffron, pepper and salt. Lay the pieces of fish in the pickle for five or six hours. Drain them and place in a dish, and cover them with very finely pounded sweet herbs. Bake in the oven and serve cold. 87 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Sardinas Frescas. (Fried Sardines.) Dry some sardines (very small sprats will do). Dust them with flour and toss in melted butter till cooked Serve with the cooked melted butter poured over them, and slices of lemon. I.ascas. (Fillet of Beef). Cut some slices from a fillet; fry in a pan which has been rubbed over with a piece of garlic. Put a piece of cooked marrow on top of each fillet and surmount with scraped horse-radish. Surround with a good rich gravy or nicely seasoned cullis, and serve with roasted potatoes previously cleaned. Puchero. (Stew.) Cut three pounds of lean mutton into thin two-inch squares, the meat of a chicken and half-a-pound of pork, a handful of soaked Indian corn, half-a-dozen potatoes cleaned and cut in fours, a couple of sliced onions, half-a- pound of French beans, the half of a small cabbage, half- a-pint of peas, and six pears cleared from skin and pips and cut in quarters. Add the bones and trimmings of the chicken, and any other handy bones. Boil till tender ; add pepper and salt to taste. Strain, and reduce stock to a semi-glaze, and serve the meat neatly surrounded with the pears and some of the vegetables, and pour sauce over. 88 CANARY ISLANDS Gofio. (Roast Maize.) Put one pint of grated green corn or maize in a basin. Mix with it one pinch of salt and pepper, a small quantity of warmed butter, and the yolks of three eggs beaten along with half-a-pint of milk. Butter a pan, and pour in the batter, and bake till set in the middle. It is to be served as a separate dish. Palomas Salvajes-Ensalada. (Wood Pigeons and Salad.) Clean and truss some wild wood pigeons. Pickle in vinegar for several hours. Put the same in a pan with some stock and a little of the pickle, a head of celery, an onion, pepper and salt, and stew till tender. Take out, and glaze when cold. Serve with a salad dressed with vinegar, oil, pepper and salt. Rub the dish first with a clove of garlic. Tomates de Huevos. (Tomatoes and Eggs.) Pop some very large tomatoes into hot water for a little, then skin and halve them. Put some butter in a pan, and when hot fry the tomatoes, dusting them with salt and pepper. When cooked reduce the liquor as much as possible. Place the tomatoes in a dish, pour the sauce over them, and on the top of these some very neatly trimmed fried eggs, on which sprinkle some fine salt, minced chervil, and coraline pepper. 89 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Cabellos de Angel. (Stewed Melon.) Take any kind of melon. Pare, clean from all the seeds, and cut in long thin narrow strips. Make a syrup by boiling three pounds of sugar in the same weight of water. After clarifying, and while still hot, put in four pounds weight of the cut melon, and stew slowly till tender. Reduce the syrup by boiling, and pour over the fruit. Serve cold. Torta de Almendras. (Almond Tart.) Make a good rich crust and put in a round flawn case about an inch high and nine inches in diameter. Fire it in the oven. Make a good rich custard and spread some in the bottom of the flawn with a thick layer of pounded almonds sweetened with sugar on the top. Then put another layer of custard upon the almonds, and fire till custard is cooked. Serve with whipped cream on top. Qobso de Flor. (Cheese). Take equal quantities of sheep's and goat's milk cheese, a strong infusion from the thistle, and a little pepper. Pound all together and make into small cakes. Serve with bread and butter. 90 XIV.— CHINA (North-West) Menu Kan Kwoa Kwa Tzu (Dried Fruits) (Roast Melon Seeds) Ping fang Chih t'ao Chu ping (Sugar Candy) (Raisins) (Candied Peel) Hsien Kwoa (Fresh Fruit) P'u t'ao Hsiang shui It (Grapes) (Pears) Ksi kwa Li tzti (Melons) (Plums) Hsiao Wan. (Small Dishes) Liu hsia ren Tan fen kao (Shrimp Mayonnaise) (Eggs in Aspic) Chin Kan Yen hwang kwa (Chicken Livers) (Pickled Cucumbers) Chao Chin (Warm Wine) 9 1 CHINA (North-West) — continued Menu Ta wan [Large Dishes) Yen woa t'ang (Birds' Nest Soup) Chu sun (Bamboo Shoots) Sha ch'ih (Sharks' Fins) No mi chi chou (Chicken in Rice) San hsien shao mai (Crab Croquettes) Ch'ieh chia (Egg Plant) Yu Sai (Fish Gills and Stomachs) Tso tin kai (Fried Frogs) Hai Shen (Sea Slugs) Chi tan kao (Sponge Custard) Y'ii hsia (Shell Fish) Yan ja kwaj (Dough-nuts) Yeh ya kwa tsz (Braised Slices of Teal) Chia hsien kao (Bean Curd Dumplings) Chwan Wan tzii (Pork Meat Balls) Yen woa kao (Custard and Jelly) I p'in ku (Roast Duck) Ching Mi fan (Boiled Rice) Ch'a shui (Tea) 92 CHINA (North-West) Liu hsia ren. (Shrimp Mayonnaise.) Put one pint of sauce, similar to Bechamel, only using oil instead of butter, into a saucepan with four mush- rooms, one truffle, and the meat from a dozen large shrimps, all chopped up very small. Thicken well, and let it cook for five minutes, and when cold divide into small fancy shapes. Tan fen kao. (Eggs in Aspic.) Set a plain border mould in ice, and have ready suffi- cient warm savoury aspic jelly coloured green to fill in. Cut some eggs in quarters, and dip them in the jelly, and stick them round the interior of the mould, whites and yolks alternately. Fill up with the eggs and aspic. Turn out. Chi Kan. (Chicken Livers.) After steeping well in clean water, put some chicken livers in a pan with some good stock, seasoning well with aromatic spices. Stew very slowly. Take equal weight of boiled pork fat with some more seasonings, including pepper and salt, and pound all together to a smooth paste. Make up into nicely shaped squares, and serve neatly on a dish. Yen hwang kwa. (Pickled Cucumbers.) Take some small cucumbers, and cut into two-inch lengths, and pour over while hot some strongly spiced vinegar. When cool, bottle and cork tightly. 93 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Yen woa t'ang. (Bird's Nest Soup.) Although this is almost exclusively a Chinese dish, it is not altogether unknown in this country, the nests being imported in small quantities, and commanding large prices. After they have been steeped and thorough- ly washed there is really nothing but a gelatinous mass which is without flavour or virtue, so that gourmets think that substituting Irish moss for the nests makes a much more delicate soup, and appeals more readily to the European palate. Take a quarter of a pound of Irish moss, soak in two waters till all bitterness is extracted, and boil with plenty of meat or fowl stock and the usual vegetables till cooked, season with pepper and soy (it must not be sweet browning, which is usually sold under that name) . Strain and clear, then add along with the bones the pounded flesh of a couple of fowls, taking care not to lose any of the juice. Boil for a quarter of an hour. Add more seasoning, if required, and again strain and clear with the white of an egg and some of the pounded raw fowl. If birds' nests are used, take three and put them into boiling water, and steep for forty-eight hours, then wash again in cold water, so that they are perfectly clean. Then proceed as above. Hai Shen. (Sea Slugs.) Soak, wash, and clean in several waters, then sprinkle with a seasoning of soy, pounded cloves, mace, and pep- per ; put them into a stew-pan with strong chicken gravy 94 CHINA (North-VVest) and a small piece of lean ham ; sherry and port in equal quantities to cover them ; put the lid on the stew-pan, and stew till very tender. Take them out, lay them on a hot dish, and keep hot. Add to the gravy in the stew-pan a chopped anchovy, a thickening of flour, and a little sesamum oil, seasoned with a point of garlic, a little thyme, and bay leaves ; boil it well, strain it through a sieve, add a few drops of lemon juice, and then pour it over the slugs. Serve hot, garnished with bread sippets, scraped horse-radish, and also with boiled rice. If the sea slugs cannot be got, a good substitute is to take some skinned and filletted eels, cut in pieces about three inches long, and cook as directed above. Chu sun. (Bamboo Shoots.) Boil the tender shoots for fifteen minutes, then steep for fifteen minutes in cold water, Drain and dress with nut oil and soy, or drain thoroughly a tin of shoots and empty them into a dish and use the foresaid dressing. Chi tan kao. (Sponge Custard.) Make a sponge cake and cut into fancy shapes about the size of a five-shilling piece, then cover with a thick custard flavoured with vanilla or lemon. (Sponge Cake) . Beat in a pan over hot water three eggs with one tea- cupful of pounded fine sugar till very light and stiff. This will take at least twenty minutes. Now add half a 95 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS teaspoonful of vanilla and stir in quickly and lightly one teacupful of sifted flour. Pour into a prepared and oiled tin, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Lemon may be used instead of the vanilla, and if for a tea table a broad slice of citron or lemon peel may be placed on top. Sha ch'ih. (Shark's Fins.) Take the fins as bought, and place in a cooking pan, add charcoal or wood-ashes and boil in several waters. Then take them out, and scrape awav the roughness on the fins. If not clean, boil again, and scrape again until properly cleaned. Then change the water and boil again. Take out, remove the flesh, and keep only the fins. Then boil once more. Put in spring water, Be careful in changing water, and thoroughly soak them, for it is necessary that the lime taste should be taken out of them. Then put the fins into strong meat and fowl soup made with all kinds of vegetables, a good dash of pounded fried ham, some fried onions, ground mace, and cinnamon and soy. Stew three times till quite tender. Strain the stock, and reduce till it is thick and gelatinous. Dish in a bowl, placing crab meat below them, and add a little ham on the top.. The taste is clear and churty (neither tender nor tough) . Yu hsia (Shell Fish.) Wash thoroughly some mussels, clams, cockles, and periwinkles, then steep all night in water to drain off 96 CHINA (North- West) sand. Put them in a pot with a little white wine, a bay- leaf, nutmeg and clove. When the shells open, take out the fish and lay to the one side, strain and reduce the liquor to a pint. Put a breakfast cupful of very good ground-nut oil and six ounces of flour in a saucepan, and stir it over the fire till cooked, but not browned ; then mix in gradually one and a half quarts of white broth, and half a pint of shell-fish liquor. Boil the above mixture, then mix in two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovies, one table- spoonful of soy, and a bunch of sweet herbs, seasoning with sugar and cayenne pepper. Clean and cut the soft roes of three mackerels into small equal-sized pieces, and fry them lightly in oil. Prepare and cook some quenelles of whiting forcemeat, and mix them with a little oil, and some chopped tarragon. Strain the stock, return it to the saucepan, put in the shell-fish, fish roes, quenelles, and some two-inch pieces of macaroni which has been partially cooked in stock, and let boil for seven or eight minutes longer. Pour into a tureen, and squeeze in a little lemon juice and serve. No mi chi chou. (Chicken in Rice.) Take the bones out of a chicken and steam till just cooked. Then take it out and let it cool. Cut it into thin slices. Take gelatinous rice which has been fer- mented with yeast and water added, and cook with this for two hours ; afterwards add the juice expressed from fresh ginger, soy, sesamum oil, of each a little. Mix to- gether with boiled peanut oil. Dish and add fragrant herbs 97 G BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Yan ja Kwai. (Dough-nuts.) Put into a basin four ounces of flour ; make a bay in the centre, and pour in half a wine glassful of yeast ; mix the flour into it by degrees along with a little milk. Cover with a cloth and put it close to the fire for two hours, that the dough may rise. Beat two eggs, add a quarter pint of milk, a dessert- spoonful of rosewater, three ounces nut-oil, four ounces sifted sugar and a little grated nutmeg. Heat slightly and work into the dough. Now sift in four ounces of flour, mix lightly and cover up again, and let it stand near the fire to rise for another hour. Then put it on to a, well-floured baking board. If it seems too soft, add a little flour to it, but be careful not to add too much ; roll it into balls about the size of walnuts, and fry to golden- brown in boiling lard. Sprinkle with sugar before serving. San hsien shao mai. (Crab Croquettes.) Take the meat (inside and claws) of two large crabs. Put into a stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped onions, with half an ounce of sesamum oil, pass them about three minutes over the fire, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, then add the crabs pounded down, and a gill of white sauce made of rich fish stock, flour, and a little ground-nut oil, or more if not sufficiently moist ; season with pepper, soy, a suspicion of garlic, a squeeze of lemon, and a little sugar ; then stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir it a little longer on the fire, and turn it out on a dish to cool ; when cold, take twelve pieces, each 98 CHINA (North-West) the size of a walnut, roll them out an inch and a half in length, bread-crumb thrice over, and fry in lard. "Yeh ya kwa tsz. (Braised Slices of Teal.) Remove the fillets from a couple of plump teal. Put some peanut oil into a pan, and when quite hot slice an onion very thin into it, and fry till brown. Then put in the fillets of teal and brown, after which throw in a table- spoonful of pounded bacon which has been fried till brown and quite brittle, a large cupful of very strong stock made of the bones and trimmings of the birds, a tablespoonful of oil, half a tablespoonful of flour ; season with a table- spoonful of soy, a little sugar and pepper, a teaspoonful of pounded ginger, and a tablespoonful of ground green chillies. Put lid on pan and simmer gently for an hour. •Ch'ieh Chia. (Egg Plant.) Select the requisite quantity of rather thin and long egg plant fruit, and with a sharp knife cut the peel to imitate the scales of fish. Cut off the tops, having them about one and a half inches in diameter, and carefully scoop out the insides, then put them in a basin of salted water to extract the bitter juice. Peel and finely chop four moderate-sized onions, and blanch and peel two tablespoonfuls of pistachio kernels. Put some good oil in a stewpan, place it over the fire till hot, put in the minced onions and stir them about until beginning to brown. Then put in one breakfastcupful of well-washed rice, and continue stirring it. When the rice commences 99 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS to brown pour in a small quantity of hot second white stock, and so on until the rice is nearly cooked. Put about two tablespoonfuls of powdered biscuit over the rice, and the pistachios, and two tablespoonfuls of well- washed currants ; add a tablespoonful of pounded bacon which has been fried till quite brown and brittle, and season with soy and mixed spices. Stir the mixture till all the ingredients are well incorporated, then take the pan from the fire, and leave it till the contents are nearly cold. Drain the egg plant fruit, stuff them with the mixture, replace their tops, only upside down. Lay some mutton bones at the bottom of a saucepan, put in the egg plant fruit, pour in sufficient water to cover them, and boil gently till getting soft, then drain, put them in a frying pan with lard, and fry till browned ; drain the fat and serve. Chia hsien kao (Bean Curd Dumplings.) Beat three eggs in a large bowl for about five minutes, and then stir into them one breakfastcupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of bean curd, and one- third of a grated nutmeg, two breakfastcupfuls of haricot beans which have been soaked till quite soft, and passed through a sieve, and one teaspoonful each of cream of tartar and carbonate of ammonia, and stir the mixture quickly into the ingredients already mixed in the bowl. Just sufficient ground beans to make a dough only is required. If more than two breakfastcupfuls are needed, stir it into the dough, but remember to make it ioo CHINA (North-West) only stiff enough to roll out. Handle the dough very quickly and lightly and as little as possible. As soon as it is mixed turn it from the bowl on to a floured paste board and make it into balls about the size of a walnut. Set them in a warm place to rise again, but not too much or they will be spongy and absorb the fat. Have ready a frying kettle half full of smoking hot fat, put into it as many balls as will float without pressing against each other, and fry a light brown ; then take them out of the fat with a skimmer, and lay on a sieve or paper to drain. When all are fried roll them in powdered sugar, and serve either hot or cold. Bean Curd. Wash some haricot beans and steep over night. Grind them quite fine and boil for two hours in the water in which they were soaked. Strain through a fine sieve and add a small quantity of gypsum. When the liquid has set, work up the same as you would do sour milk. If to be kept, add salt. Yu Sai. (Fish Gills and Stomachs). Take a slice of ham, pour boiling water over it, and let it soak for half an hour, then cut it up small and put it over the fire in a saucepan with the strained liquor of three pints of good fish stock made from the gills and bellies of white fish; when the latter are cooked put them in a separate pan ; add to the fish stock one pint of good strong chicken broth, an onion chopped fine, a small 101 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS quantity of .chopped parsley, and two heads of celery ; soy, and pepper to taste. Let this simmer gently for 15 minutes, and then allow it to boil fast for five minutes ; skim and put in the fish gills and bellies, free from all bones, stir constantly; and let it boil up once. Then mix in one tablespoonful of corn flour blended smoothly with a quarter pint of milk ; keep stirring till it boils and begins to thicken, then add two ounces of oil. When the oil is assimilated, lift out the gills, etc., with a skimmer, lay them on a hot dish and keep them covered. When the sauce again comes to the boil take it from the fire and have a beaten egg ready in a cup, beat into it a spoonful or two of the hot sauce, then empty the cup into the saucepan, mixing the egg well in. Pour the sauce or gravy over the gills, etc., and serve at once, adding the strained juice of a lemon after the tureen is placed on the table. Serve with dry boiled rice. Without the fish gills this makes a capital sauce for boiled fish. Chwan Wan tzu. (Pork Meat Balls.) Mince a pound of well-mixed young pork very fine. Season with green ginger, green onions (minced very fine), a little cinnamon, a small portion of a point of ground garlic, and a little soy. Mix all well together and make into balls about twice the size of walnuts, and fry in boiling lard. Tso tin kai. (Fried Frogs.) Soak twenty-four hind legs in a pickle of vinegar, oil, pepper, and soy for one and a half hours. Make a batter 102 CHINA (North-West) of flour, oil, water, and soy, putting in a little grated lemon and cayenne. Coat the legs with this, and dip in .some finely sifted pounded biscuits with pepper, grated lemon peel and cayenne. Then plunge into boiling oil till nicely browned. Yen woa kao. (Custard and Jelly Pudding.) Cut off the peel of half a dozen oranges, put it into a basin with about half a gallon of water, and let it remain for ten or twelve hours. Take it out, drain quite dry, and with a pair of scissors cut it up into small pieces or stripes. Put these pieces of peel into a saucepan of water and boil until quite tender ; take them out and drain on a sieve. Put one teacupful of sugar into a sauce- pan with one pint of water, and boil to a syrup, then put in the pieces of orange peel, and simmer gently for half an hour. Turn the whole into a basin and let stand for a day. Put one pint each of sugar and water into a sugar boiler ; boil to the thread degree, which will take about twenty minutes. Put the pieces of orange peel from the other syrup into this, and boil for thirty minutes ; then take them out, drain well, and put them on a dish in the oven. Put one ounce of gelatine into one teacupful of cold water, let it soak for two hours or so, then pour over sufhceint boiling water to make, together with the strained juice of six oranges and the water with the gelatine, about five cupfuls. Mix in one teacupful of sugar, and when it is dissolved pour the whole through a fine sieve into a shallow dish. Make small holes at the ends of six eggs, 103 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS empty them and wash them well inside. Drain them quite dry and fill them with warm blanc mange. Put them in a basin of meal or flour, having the ends with the holes uppermost, and let them get quite cold. When the jelly is quite cold and firm, break it into small lumps, put it on a dish, and with the pieces of orange peel form half a dozen nests in the jelly. Put the eggs in these nests and -serve. I p'in ku (Roast Duck.) Take a fat duck ; open, and clean. Take some salt and rub over it both outside and in. Put it into an earthen dish and take of fan spirits one cup, and put the cup with the spirits inside the duck. Do not let the spirits spill on to the duck ; only the vapour of the spirits is wanted. Steam over water till quite tender. Lift out the wine cup into a bowl. Done in this way there is no need of minor vegetables. Ching mi fan. (Plain Boiled Rice.) Take a large pot, in which put two gallons of water ; when boiling furiously, plunge in one pound of rice which has been well washed ; stir occasionally with a wooden spoon. In fourteen to sixteen minutes it ought to be tender, but should not be soft before taking it off the fire. Test a few grains, and, if sufficiently tender, add a good tumbler of cold water, then pour on to a sieve to drip. When drained return to the pot to heat thoroughly, shaking it occasionally till perfectly dry T04 XV.— CHINA (South-East) Hsien (Fruits) Yang-niu (Dried Almonds) See-kwa-tsze (Fried Melon Seeds) Ba-daw-kau Mee-tsao (Preserved Dates) Zang-sun-koo (Sugared Peanuts) Kwang-cher (Dried Raisins) (Mandarin Oranges, peeled) Hsiao Wan (Condiments, etc.) Wo-sfun Yu-say (Spring Onions) (Dried Parsley) Ka-ma Tsu-o (Mustard) (Vinegar) Chang-yu De-chang (Chinese Sauce or Soy) (Bean-cake Sauce) Heu Ah (Raw Shrimps in Soy) (Cold Sliced Duck) Chu To tze (Cold Sliced Chicken) (Cold Boiled Tripe) i°5 CHINA (South-East) — continued Menu Ta Wan (Large or Meat Dishes) Ee-woo Yue-tszu (Birds' Nests) (Sharks' Fins) Hong-sau-chee Tsu-lue-Wohung (Boiled Chicken) (Ningpo Yellow Fish) Haw-Jeu Haw-Tze-Hai-Sung (Shrimp Balls) (Sea Slugs) Chun-Cheu Ching Tung Hoo-Ta (Stuffed Chitlings) (Boiled Ham) Sau-Tszu Saw-Ah (Roast Pig) (Roast Duck) Ching Tun Dee Pon Leang-bu-Chee (Boiled Pork) (Chicken Salad) Tsau-chea-pea E Woo-Ku-Day (Fried Chicken) (Pigeons' Eggs) Tsau-yue-pea Haw-tsze Bau Sung Doo-Zar-Har (Fried Sliced Fish) (Bamboo Shoots) (Boiled Crabs) Yan ja kuai Kwo mien-kwei (Dough-nuts) (Tartlets) Yan Fen (Vermicelli Soup) Ching Mi fan (Boiled Rice) Ch'a shui (Tea) 106 CHINA (South-East) Ee-woo. (Birds' Nest). Birds' nests mostly come from Shang-Hal-Kwan. To prepare, first soak in boiling water, then allow to stand for forty-eight hours, after which wash carefully in clean water, and see that all sand and feathers are removed. Take two and place them in two pints of well-seasoned chicken stock, and boil for one hour over a small fire. Before serving put in one tablespoonful of sugar. Yue-tszu. (Sharks' Fins.) The butt part is useless, only the fin can be used. Take two ounces and steep for an hour, change the water and wash thoroughly to remove all sand and slime ; boil in two pints of water for half-an-hour, then pour off the water, then boil in one and a half pints of well-seasoned chicken soup for half-an-hour. Hong-sa.u-chee. (Boiled Chicken.) Put a spring chicken in a pan, pour over enough water to cover, boil for half-an-hour, then add half a tumbler- ful of soy, one quarter tumblerful of Chinese wine (Lao Chu or Sam Shu) with a little green ginger and onions cut very fine. Boil over a gentle fire for twenty minutes. Madeira is a good substitute for Chinese wine. Chinese soy is the same as made in Japan. Tsu-lue-Wohung. (Ningpo Yellow Fish.) Fry in lard until both sides are well browned and crisp, then add a quarter tumblerful of vinegar, quarter 107 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS tumblerful of wine, and half a tumblerful of soy. Bo : for ten minutes. Trout or salmon may be cooked in this way. Haw-jeu. (Shrimp Balls.) Boil some shrimps in salted water, shell and mince very fine. Make a batter of flour, oil, and water, seasoned with a little soy, sugar, and spices ; mix with the shrimp paste ; make some balls and fry in hot lard till nicely browned. Haw-tze-hai-sung. (Sea Slugs.) Cut the slugs in two and wash them thoroughly, and steep for half-an-hour. Give them another rinse through cold water. To every six ounces of slugs take one ounce of shrimp spawn ; boil in chicken soup for fifteen minutes, add one spoonful of sugar and a quarter tumblerful of soy, with a little Chinese wine (Madeira will do), then boil for another five minutes. Chun-cheu. (Stuffed Chitlings.) Thoroughly clean pig's chitlings (the thick end of gut), stuff them with three parts minced fat pork and one part ham, with a liberal seasoning of spices (hot and sweet) and soy. Fry in lard. Ching Tung Hoo-ta. (Boiled Ham.) Take a knuckle of ham, boil it in chicken soup over a gentle fire till quite tender. 108 CHINA (South-East) Sau-tszu. (Roast Pig.) Moisten some cooked pounded chestnuts and chop- ped clams with a little soy, and stuff a sucking pig. Roast before the fire, basting it very often ; quarter of an hour before taking from the fire, dust the pig with flour so as the pig will take a light brown colour. Saw-Ah. (Roast Duck.) Cut a roasted duck in very thin slices ; serve with thin batter wafers made of flour, oil, soy, and water. Ching Tun Dee-pon. (Boiled Pork) . Boil a knuckle of young pork in water, with a little so}', a small piece of ham, a few slices of green ginger, and some spring onions. When soft, dish and eat, first dipping the pieces in soy. Leang-bu-che. (Chicken Salad.) Only breast of chicken should be used. Cut into small and exceedingly thin slices, which steep in boiling water for three minutes, then remove from water ; allow the chicken to cool, and cut up with a lettuce and watercress as fine as possible. Dress with soy and serve. Tsau-che-pea. (Fried Chicken.) Cut a chicken in thin slices, fry in lard, and add a little Sam-shu and soy, then mix with half a pound of fresh green peas. Stew for twenty minutes. 109 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS E Woo-ku-day. (Pigeons' Eggs.) Wash one ounce of birds' nests thoroughly, then plunge in boiling water and steep for forty-eight hours. Strain and steep in cold water, seeing that all foreign matters are removed. Boil in a little well-seasoned chicken broth for an hour. Just before serving add twenty-four hard- boiled pigeons' eggs (shelled) and heat up. Tsau-yue-pea. (Fried Sliced Fish.) Take the fillets of any kind of fish, and fry in lard ; add a little Sam-shu, ginger, and onion, cut small ; also lotus- roots ; then boil very gently for twenty minutes. Haw-tsze-bau-sung. (Bamboo Shoots.) Slice the young shoots and boil in water (they may be steamed), then add a quarter of a tumblerful of soy with a little Sam-shu (or Madeira), and again boil for another ten minutes with some shrimp spawn. Doo-zar-har. (Boiled Crabs.) Boil four crabs ; remove the meat from the shells and mix with some soy and finely chopped-green ginger. Fill two of the shells with the mixture and serve. Yan Fen. (Vermicelli Soup.) When a quart of well-seasoned clear chicken broth is boiling, add two ounces of well-washed vermicelh and boil gently for other ten minutes, and it is ready to serve. I 10 CHINA (South-East) Ching-mi-fan. (Boiled Rice.) Boil the same way as in North- West recipes. Kwo mien kwei. (Tartlets.) Having made a puff paste, roll it out, or roll out the paste to a strip of twelve inches by four, the thickness of half-a-crown, then put in the centre any kind of preserves, and on top fine strips of paste. Bake on a tin, and, when cold, cut into fancy shapes. Yan ja kuai. (Dough-nuts.) Put three ounces of plain and one of rose water, one ounce of sugar, and one ounce of sweet-nut oil in a pot, and bring to the boil. When bubbling, drop in four ounces of flour, all at once, which has been dried and sifted. Stir briskly till the dough is quite smooth and thoroughly cooked and leaves the spoon freely. Remove the pan from the fire and work an egg into the dough with a wooden spoon. When thoroughly done, work in other three, but be sure to do only one at a time, so that the dough may be as light as possible. Heat a pan of fat to blue heat, and drop the dough in in teaspoonfuls, a few at a time, and fry till a golden yellow. Sprinkle with sugar, pounded cinnamon, and ginger, before serving. XVI.— DENMARK Menu Kraase Suppe (Giblet Soup) Klipfiskebudding- (Fish Pudding) Finker (Stewed Roast Beef) Kalve Fricandeau (Braised Veal) Stegt Tiur (Roast Capercailzie) Keks & Ost (Biscuit and Cheese) Rodgrod (Red Currant Shape) Hindboer Is (Raspberry Ice Cream) Frugt (Fruit) Confect (Confections) DENMARK Kraase. Suppe (Giblet Soup). Clean and well wash some giblets of any or all kinds of fowl. Cut in small pieces, and place on the fire with plenty of water. Skim carefully, and boil till tender. Strain into a dish to get cold. When the fat hardens, remove it ; put the stock on the fire again, and bring once more to the boil. Put in the cut pieces of fowl giblets, some prunes, which have been softened by steeping in water ; some small apples, cut in quarters, and a little sugar ; but before putting these in thicken your stock with flour, mixed with a little vinegar. Klipfiskebudding. (Fish Pudding). Soak, skin uppermost, a half pound of salt fish in milk for ten or twelve hours. Boil till tender, then remove the skin and all the bones, and pound fairly smooth ; put this in a mixture of 6 ounces of butter, 3 ounces of flour, and f-pint of milk. Bake this in the oven slightly. When the great heat is off, add the yolks, beaten, of 5 eggs ; some minced raisins, salt and mace, and then the whites of the eggs beaten as stiff as possible. Mix all lightly together. Pour it into a form, and steam for two to three hours. See that the water does not boil in the form. Serve with Hollandaise Sauce. HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. Put a pint of melted butter and the yolks of five eggs into a pan. Put the pan into another with hot water, [13 H BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS and whisk it when on the fire till quite thick ; but see that it does not boil. Now whip in two tablespoonfuls of double cream, along with a dessertspoonful of capers roughly chopped, When quite hot and light add five teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, first adding a little salt and cayenne. -Finker. (Stewed Roast Beef.) Melt a couple of ounces of butter, and stir in it an ounce of wheat flour ; when the flour is cooked, pour in a pint of good brown sauce and a spoonful of good vinegar (not white) ; when amalgamated, add the slices of six apples, and boil till tender. Remove the pan from the fire, add two pounds of cold roast beef, cut in small squares ; a little salt and pepper, and a pinch of sugar. See that the meat is just heated through and no more. Serve with mashed potatoes and stewed carrots. Brown Sauce. Rub the inside of a stewpan with one ounce of butter, peel two large onions, cut them in thick slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small pieces about one pound of knuckle of veal (hall veal and beef can be used, or if no veal, all beef), all meat, two ounces of lean bacon, cut small ; one clove, a few peppercorns, half a tablespoonful of salt, one bay leaf, half a gill of water ; set it on a brisk fire, let it remain ten minutes, then stir 114 DENMARK it well round, subdue the fire, let it remain a few minutes longer, and stir now and then till it has a nice brown colour ; fill your pan with one and a half quarts of water ; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the lid three parts on the saucepan ; when boiling, skim very carefully ; after one hour or one hour and a half's simmering, pass it through a sieve into a basin. To make the thickening or Roux for it, proceed as follows : — Put one ounce of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add one and a half ounces of flour, stir it until getting a thin deep yellow colour. This process will take five minutes. Remove from the fire for two minutes to cool, then add at once one and three quarter pints of the above stock, very quickly set it on the fire to boil, re- move to the corner to simmer, and skim. It ought to be entirely free from grease, and of a light chestnut colour. Kalve Fricandeau. (Braised Veal.) The breast is the part to use ; cut it into two-inch squares, lay them in a stewpan, season with salt and pepper, and just cover with warm water ; place the pan over a moderate fire, and when just on the point of boiling, stop, drain off the water, refresh the meat with a douche of cold water, replace it in the stewpan and moisten with good broth ; bring slowly to the boil, skim- ming carefully, and then add six ounces of onion, the same of turnip, and a bouquet garni. Simmer now until tender, then take the pan from the fire, drain off the "5 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS broth, skim it, lay the pieces of meat on a dish, and trim them neatly ; turn the broth to a white sauce with an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour, give it a flavouring of mace, pass it through the hair sieve, mix into it the yolks of two raw eggs, moisten the meat with it, place on a clean stewpan, heat up gently, but without actually boiling, and serve. Mushrooms as a rule accompany this, in which case the peelings are cooked with the stew, and the mushrooms themselves in the sauce, thus flavouring it nicely. Stbgt Tiur. (Roast Capercailzie.) Truss the bird as for roasting ; • break the breast bone, and lard it generously with fat bacon. Heat some butter in a pan, and brown the bird, after which put in some cream and simmer gently for two hours, basting very frequently with the cream, and adding more as the cooking goes on ; about a quarter of an hour before finishing, dust in some flour, sprinkle the bird with pepper and salt, and add still more cream if need be, so that there is plenty of sauce. Serve pickled gherkins with it, also small roasted potatoes, and preserved cranberries. Rodgrod. (Red Currant Shape). Boil three and a half pints of the juice of red currants and raspberries — two-thirds of currants and a-third of raspberries. While it boils, put in a quarter pound each of potato and sago flour first mixed with a tumbler- 116 DENMARK ful of water. Then add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, and boil all together for fifteen or twenty minutes, being careful to stir all the time. Then pour it into a wetted form, and when cold, turn out and serve with cream and sugar. Hindboer Is. (Raspberry Ice Cream.) Take four pounds juice of the berries and three pounds of sugar, bring to the boil, skim, and let it get cold. Whip four pints of cream, and add the juice ; mix and freeze in the usual way. Raspberry jam may be passed through a sieve and used instead of the fresh fruit and sugar. Strawberry ice cream is made the same way. 117 XVII.— EGYPT Menu Farronj Xauraba (Chicken Broth) Yukabbil Tuyur (Roast Turkey) Fitir (Cheese Savoury) Kuftas (Mince Chicken Balls) Baid Nabat (Fried Egg-Plant Fruit) Kabobs (Grilled Mutton) Elmek Kataif (Sweet Pastry) Turlu (Stewed Vegetables) Lhanze Yarsuh (Almond Cakes) Maxwiey (Leg of Mutton) Fecihe (Macedoine of Jelly) Laham fi Talfaq (Meat in Vine Leaves) Mahalibiyye (Rice Pudding-) Arroz Pulao (Pilaf of Rice) 118 EGYPT Farronj Xauraba. (Chicken Broth.) After cleaning and trussing a large fowl for boiling, plunge it into a pot of water, and boil along with lentils and various vegetables ; season with tarragon, basil, thyme, pepper and salt, and a touch of cumin, cori- ander, and nutmeg. When cooked, take out the fowl, work soup through a sieve, and cut the fowl into small pieces, and serve along with the soup. Yukabbil Tuyur. (Roast Turkey.) Wipe the inside of a tender young turkey, and stuff it with boiled rice, chopped almonds and raisins, seasoned with ground carraway seed and cinnamon. Cut the neck off, leaving the skin as long as possible, then stuff the crop with the same mixture as the body, with the addition of a good quantity of well-seasoned mince meat, and sew the skin on to the back ; sew up the other opening of the turkey, truss it, singe it on the breast to set the skin. Fix the bird on a spit, first wrapping it in vine leaves, and roast in front of a clear fire, basting it continually with butter. When nearly cooked, remove the paper, put some salt and pepper on bird, and brown for ten minutes. Skim and strain gravy, put a little glaze in, boil up quickly and pour over the bird, saving some to be served separately in a sauceboat. Serve with bread and mixed pickles. Fitir. (Cheese Savoury.) With half a pound of paste similar to Coulibiac, mix the following preparation : — Press closely in a cloth 119 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS seven ounces of white cheese, thus extracting its moisture; put it into a mortar with a piece of butter and chopped parsley, and pound it. When the paste is smooth season with salt and nutmeg, place it in an earthen pan, and introduce into it two yolks of eggs, working it with a spoon. When firm and cold, roll it out in a thin flat, stamp out some rounds with a tin-cutter and range the cakes on a baking sheet, and at a distance one from the other. Keep them for twenty minutes at the tem- perature of the kitchen ; egg them afterwards, and bake them in a moderate oven. Serve with a sharp salad and mixed pickles. Kuftas. (Mince Chicken Balls.) Mash up some raw chicken meat with butter ; season with fine herbs, cinnamon, cumin, nutmeg, and carraway (be careful as to use of these), roll into balls, place on skewers alternated with pieces of fat — sheep's tails for preference, and grill in front of the fire. Sauce the gravy, add a little stock and marsalla and thicken with rice flour. Serve with bread, sharp salad, and mixed pickles. Baid Nabat. (Fried Egg- Plant Fruit.) Cut the egg-plant fruit into slices of a moderate thickness, and steep them in salted water for about half- an-hour. Drain them, flour well, and put them in a frying-pan with plenty of butter, and fry till brown. Peel three cloves of garlic, pound them in a mortar, 1 20 EGYPT season with a small quantity of salt, pour in two wine- glassfuls of vinegar, and stir well. Lay the slices of egg-plant fruit in a baking dish, pour the sauce over them, stand the dish on a trivet, over a slow fire until all the moisture is absorbed, and serve hot with a rich sauce similar to bechamel sauce, also with a sharp salad and mixed pickles. t Kabobs. (Grilled Mutton.) Cut nice small fillets of mutton, rubbed well with aromatics ; grill them on the spit, and serve with peas or beans, cooked in well-flavoured stock, and finished with a piece of butter and yolk of eggs. Serve also with pickles and sharp salad. Elmek Kataif. (Sweet Pastry.) Prepare one pound of puff paste of six turns ; put it in a cold place for a few minutes, then roll it out to a quarter of an inch thickness. Cut with a sharp knife into pieces of rectangular shapes, about four inches long and two inches broad, which cut again into halves across from one corner to the other ; mark with the point of a knife in lines conveying to the square corner, so as to resemble a fan. Butter a baking tin, lay the pieces of paste on their sides on it, leaving a small space between them, and bake in a very quick oven. Arrange them on a hot dish, dust over with castor sugar, and pour over a well-sweetened puree of oranges mixed with curdled milk. BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Turlu. (Stewed Vegetables.) Cut a small raw carrot into large dice, put it into boiling salted water, and cook for a few minutes ; do the same with a raw turnip, cooking each separately. Drain and place them in a pan with half a gill each of cooked peas and French beans cut in half- inch lengths, two tablespoonfuls of cooked flageolets, and a small piece of cauliflower. Moisten with half a pint of bechamel sauce, and season with half pinch each of salt and pepper, and a point of garlic. Let simmer till all the sauce is taken up, and then serve with sharp salad and mixed pickles. Sharp Salad. Take a. suitable quantity of burnet, chervil, tarragon, celery, with two leaves of balm, two finely minced shallots and green chillies, and mix with a few capers ; make a dressing of two tablespoonfuls of oil, a little salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar, with a good dash of cayenne, and the juice of a lemon. Lhanze Yarsuh. (Almond Cakes.) Put half a pint of water in a large saucepan with a little more than a quarter pound of fresh butter, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of finely chopped almonds, the peel of one lemon, and a pinch of salt. Boil it till the butter is melted, then take the lemon peel out ; throw in sufficient finely-sifted flour to make a stiff paste, along 122 EGYPT with some chopped almonds. Stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon till the paste can be easily detached, from the pan, then take it off. Break in, one at a time, five or six eggs ; but do not put more than the paste can absorb, and mix each one in before adding the other. Shape the paste into equal sized balls and put them about one inch apart from each other on a baking sheet. Brush over with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg and milk ; put them in a moderately hot oven, and do not open the door until done or they will flatten. Dry them, detach from baking sheet, and with a knife make a small hole in the top and put in a teaspoonful of chopped raisins and dates mixed with honey. Maxwiey. (Leg of Mutton.) Choose a good leg, hung till tender ; pare the thin end, bone and lay it in an earthen pan, just deep and large enough to hold it. Mince two or three onions, the same of carrots and celery-roots, fry in clarified fat, moisten with three glassfuls of vinegar and the same of water ; let the liquid boil, add to it some sprigs of aromatics, thyme, bay-leaf, basil, two cloves of garlic, parsley, cloves, peppercorns, continue boiling for twenty minutes. Take then the stewpan off the fire, let the marinade stock nearly cool, pour it over the leg of mutton ; which macerate therein for twenty-four hours, turning several times. Drain the leg, wipe it on a cloth, put it into a roasting pan with a good piece of butter, and push it into an oven 123 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS not too hot ; half an hour after, baste with two gills of the marinade stock, and a pint of sour cream (smitane) ; finish cooking the leg, basting frequently ; then place it on a dish ; put three or four tomatoes into the cooking stock, reduce it on the fire until nicely thickened, strain, then pour it over the leg, and serve with bread, beans, sharp salad and mixed pickles. Fecihe. (Macedoine of Jelly.) Make some firm calf's-foot jelly and have a good variety of fresh fruit. Wet a mould and put in pieces of the different fruits and blocks of the jelly until the mould is nearly full. Then pour on very gently some of the jelly melted, not too hot. Let it soak well down, then put it in a cold place, and when the shape is quite firm, put a hot cloth round the mould, and turn out in the usual way. Laham fi Talfaq. (Meat in Vine Leaves.) Remove the smews from one pound of fillet of mutton, mince it, put it into a basin, add about one breakfast- cupful of slightly blanched rice, one small chopped onion, a little chopped parsley, a pinch of cinnamon and pepper and salt to taste. Divide this preparation into small pieces about the size of filberts, wrap each one separately in a vine leaf ; pack them in five or six rows in a high saucepan, putting one row over the other, and seasoning well as each set of rows are complete ; pour in sufficient 124 EGYPT broth to nearly cover them, put a plate or cover over, so as to press them well ; boil until the liquor is reduced to one quarter its original quantity, and remove the pan to the side of the fire for twenty minutes longer. Take out the dolmas one at a time, and place them in a pile on a hot dish ; strain the liquor into another saucepan, boil it up again, adding the thickening of the yolks of five or six eggs mixed up with the juice of two or three lemons ; pour it over the dolmas and serve at once with sharp salad and mixed pickles. Mahalibiyye. (Rice Pudding.) Make a rich pudding of rice flour, milk, and eggs, seasoned with plenty of cinnamon. Serve with warm custard. Arroz Pulao. (Pilaf of Rice.) Wash the rice well and boil in water for five minutes, strain, and put it over the fire in a stewpan with the pulp of two tomatoes, one onion, pepper and salt, and a large piece of butter, and stew till tender. Take* it from the fire and mix well into it the yolks of two or three eggs, well beaten. Line a mould with the mixture of boiled rice and eggs, one inch thick, so that the mould is lined throughout. Put into it a ragout of mince meat or minced livers of poultry, with a touch of carraway or cinnamon, pepper and salt, fill up and cover with the mixture of boiled rice and eggs, put it into a quick oven and bake for an hour. Turn it out and pour over it some 125 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS good gravy. Serve very hot with sharp salad and mixed pickles. If the livers are used, it is better to mix the mince with the rice preparation before putting it into the mould. Boiled Rice. Wash half a pound of rice and boil it in two quarts of boiling water for fifteen minutes. Turn it out to drain through a colander, and dry it by the fire. It must be very lightly handled, and every grain will be separate and distinct. Indeed, rice should never be taken up with spoons, but tossed over into the dish. 126 XVIII.— ENGLAND Menu Vegetable Soup Hare Soup Boiled Salmon and Cucumbers Fried Fillets of Sole Stewed Lamb Cutlets Venison Pasties Roast Swan Roast Beef and Yorkshire Pudding Roast Pheasants Plum Pudding Junket Ice Pudding Fruit BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Vegetable Soup. Clean the following vegetables : — Lettuces, turnips, carrots, thyme, parsley, celery, and marigolds. Cut the carrots and turnips round with a cutter for that purpose, and put them into separate basins of water ; the turnips must be fried a light brown, with a few onions cut square, in some good clarified butter ; when done, put them in a hair sieve. The carrots must be blanched by themselves, and added to the turnips when done ; the lettuce must be cut in large squares and put in a basin of water with the celery, which is to be cut round and blanched by themselves, and both put into the sieve with the other vegetables ; then put some common thyme, well-washed and picked fine, in the soup pot, enough to cover the bottom, and stew with a small bit of butter. The vegetables in the sieve may then be put in the soup pot with the thyme, and filled up with some good beef stock and one ladleful of plain mutton broth. The parsley must be cut fine and blanched by itself, as well as the marigolds, and not put in before the soup is clarified. When clarified, add a little sugar and salt. Hare Soup. Put half-a-pound of butter into a stewpan, and, when melted, add three-quarters of a pound of flour, and a half- pound of streaked bacon, cut into very small pieces ; 128 ENGLAND keep stirring over the fire until becoming lightly browned. You have previously cut up a hare into neat smallish pieces ; put them into the stewpan, and keep stirring round over the fire until they are set ; then fill it up with five quarts of second brown stock ; add two onions, a head of celery, a pinch of parsley, thyme, and bay- leaves, a blade of mace, and four cloves ; when boiling, season with one ounce of salt and a little pepper, and let it simmer at the corner until the pieces of hare are done, which would be in about an hour if a young hare, but double that time if a very old one ; the better plan is to try a piece occasionally. When done, take out the best pieces and lay to one side, and the meat of the in- ferior ones pound in a mortar, remove the bones, put it back in the soup, and pass all through a tammy, and put it again into a stewpan with a tablespoonful of red currant jelly and the best pieces of the hare, boil for ten minutes, and serve. Boiled Salmon and Cucumbers. Dress this fish in slices from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of salt and water about twenty minutes ; the whole fish may be boiled, or the head and shoulders of a large one, but they require longer boiling. Salmon eats firmer by not being put into the water until boiling. Dress the fish upon a napkin, and serve with lobster sauce, shrimp ditto, or plain melted butter in a boat with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few minutes in it, and sliced cucumbers. 129 1 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Shrimp Sauce. Make exactly the same as lobster sauce, only substi- tuting boiled shrimps, passed through a sieve, and some whole shelled shrimps instead of lobsters. Fried Fillets of Sole. Skin and put two soles in a deep dish, season them with chopped sweet herbs, salt and pepper, cover with white wine, and leave to soak for half-an-hour. A few minutes before cooking, fillet the soles, dip the fillets in milk, dredge them well with flour, and fry them in lard. When nicely browned, put them in a folded napkin placed on a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley and slices of lemon. Lamb Cutlets. Take six cutlets about an inch thick. Grill them as you would chops, and serve them with this garnish : — Trim twenty-four pieces each of young potatoes, carrots, and turnips a couple of inches long, and as thick as a pencil, pointing the ends of them. Blanch these for five minutes in boiling water, drain, after which put them into a stewpan with two ounce;, of butter, putting the carrots in first, then the potatoes, and lastly, the turnips. Cook over a slow fire, seasoning with salt and pepper, and a dust of sugar. When tender, drain and serve in the centre of the dish of cutlets, with a teaspoonful of melted glaze poured over them. Mutton or veal cutlets may be cooked the same way. 130 ENGLAND Venison Pasties. Chop fine as much cold roasted venison as will fill a breakfast cup, mix it with nearly one ounce of sifted bread crumbs, and a seasoning of chopped parsley, powdered mace, and a very little grated lemon peel. Place on the fire, in a saucepan, half-a-pint of good gravy, well thickened with browned flour, and stir into it a teaspoonful of currant jelly, When the jelly is well stirred into the gravy, add the meat and bread crumbs, when it is pretty hot take it from the fire and stir in a beaten egg. Let the mixture cool, then make a good puff paste, cut in squares, and put some of the mixture in the middle, fold over three-corner ways, press the edges, brush with the yolk of an egg, and fire in oven. Arrange them on a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley and sliced lemon. Serve with them in a sauceboat some good brown game sauce. Game Sauce. Take a spoonful of the dripping which came from the venison when roasted (a cupful of good game stock will do as well). Put on the fire with some browned flour, 'a bit of butter, two glasses of claret, and dessert- spoonful of red currant jelly, a little salt, cayenne, a squeeze of lemon. Bring all to the boil, and, if necessary, pass through a tammy cloth. T 3 X BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS To Roast a Swan. Take three pounds of beef, beat fine in a mortar, Put it into the Swan — that is, when you have caught her. Some pepper, salt, mace, some nutmeg, an onion, Will heighten the flavour in Gourmand's opinion. Then tie it up tight with a small piece of tape, That the gravy, and other things, may not escape. A meal paste (rather stiff) should be laid on the breast, And some whited brown paper should cover the rest. Fifteen minutes at least ere the Swan you take down, Pull the paste off the bird that the breast may get brown. The Gravy. To a gravy beef (good and strong) I opine You'll be right if you add half-a-pint of port wine : Pour this through the Swan — yes, quite through the belly, Then serve the whole up with some hot currant jelly. N.B. — The Swan must not be skinned. " Old Monk." Another Recipe. Take two pounds of rump steak, chop it fine, season well with spice, a piece of onion or shallot, and butter. Rub the breast both inside and outside with beaten cloves, then stuff with the above, taking care to sew the bird up 132 ENGLAND carefully, and to tie it up very tightly on the spit, so that the gravy may not escape. Enclose the breast of the swan in a meal paste, after which cover the whole bird with paper well greased with beef dripping. About a quarter of an hour before the bird is taken up, remove the paper and the paste, baste well with butter and flour till brown and frothy. A swan of fifteen pounds weight requires about two hours' roasting, with a fire not too fierce. N.B. — The swan must not be skinned. Roast Beef and Yorkshire Pudding. Roast a sirloin in the usual way, and make and cook the pudding as follows : — Put two tablespoonfuls of flour into a basin, with two eggs, a pinch of salt, and two ounces of milk, mix well together with a wooden spoon, then add six ounces of milk by degrees. You have previously set a shallow tin dish under the piece of roasting beef before the fire, an hour before serving pour in the batter, leaving it under the meat until quite set and rather browned upon the top, then turn the pudding over upon the dish you intend serving it upon, and again place it before the fire until the other side is rather browned, when it is ready to serve with the meat. Roast Pheasant. Take a well hung pheasant (cock for preference). Pluck, draw, and wipe the outside as well as the inside. !33 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Cut off the heart, leaving sufficient skin on the neck to skewer back. Now stuff the inside with six chicken livers, wrapped in thin slices of bacon, which have been well seasoned with powdered rosemary, pepper, and salt. Sew up the vent, bring the legs close to the breast, between it and the side bones, and pass a skewer through the pinions and the thick part of the thighs ; wrap two thick pieces of bacon fat on the breast, and roast in front of a bright fire, basting frequently with butter. After twenty-five minutes put a slice of toast underneath to catch the dripping, and continue cooking for other ten minutes, if a large bird. Serve on the toast, along with a salad, the brown gravy and almond nut sauce in separate boats. Black game and partridges may be cooked in the same way. Almond Sauce. Mince rather fine two ounces of blanched almonds which have been thoroughly dried. Melt half an ounce of butter, and brown the almonds in this, then stir in half an ounce of flour, when thoroughly amalgamated, add three gills of reduced pheasant cullis (made the same as partridge cullis) , adding more pepper and salt if necessary. Some people prefer bread sauce, breadcrumbs, and potato chips. Salad. Pluck and wash the leaves of a cos salad ; tear into small pieces, and drain thoroughly, and just before T 34 ENGLAND serving, pour over the following dressing, put in rhyme by Sydney Smith, viz. . — ■ " To make this condiment your poet begs The pounded yellow of two hard-boiled eggs ; Two boiled potatoes passed through kitchen sieve, Smoothness and softness to the salad give ; Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce suspected, animate the whole ; Of mordant mustard add a single spoon, Distrust the condiment that bites too soon ; But deem it not, though man of herbs, a fault To add a double quantity of salt ; Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, And twice with vinegar procured from town ; And, lastly, o'er the flavoured compound toss A magic soupcon of anchovy sauce. Oh ! green and glorious ! Oh ! herbaceous treat ! 'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat ; Back to the world he would turn his fleeting soul, And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl.'' Plum Puddtng. Take four ounces of pounded pudding-biscuit, and two ounces of the best flour, or good common biscuit, a half-pound of bloom or muscatel raisins stoned, the same quantity of fresh Zante currants, picked and plumped ; and a half-pound of suet, stripped of skins and filaments and shred ; a small teaspoonful of nutmeg grated ; a quarter-pound of fine beat sugar ; a drachm of pounded cinnamon ; and two blades of mace ; three 135 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS ounces of candied lemon, orange, and citron, sliced ; two ounces of blanched almonds, roughly chopped ; and a chopped apple. Beat four eggs well, and put to them a little sweet milk, a glass of white wine or brandy, and then mix in the flour and all the ingredients. Tie up the pudding firm, and boil it for four hours, keeping up the boil and turning the pudding in the pot once or twice. Brandy Sauce. A glass of sherry, the same of good brandy and cura9oa, a scrape of lemon peel, the same quantity of Seville orange peel, and a pinch of mace. Infuse this for ten days, shaking the bottle every day. Strain it, and add sufficient clarified syrup to sweeten. Junket. Heat two pints of milk blood warm ; put it into a deep dish with two dessertspoonfuls each of brandy and sugar, two teaspoonfuls of rennet ; stir it all together, and cover it over until it thickens. Before serving spread some clotted cream over the top, and dust with grated nutmeg and sifted sugar. Ice Pudding. One pint and a half of milk, yolks of four eggs, one whole egg, quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, quarter of a pound of dried fruits, one ounce of pistachio nuts, one ounce of candied citron, chopped fine ; one glassful of 136 ENGLAND Maraschino, half a glassful of brandy, and half a pint of whipped cream. Make a custard with the eggs and milk, adding the sugar to the milk. Strain it, and when cold, put it into the freezing pot ; when half frozen, add the dried fruits — cut in pieces, candied peel, pistachios, Maraschino, etc., and, lastly, the whipped cream. When frozen pack into your pudding mould. Red Currant Jelly. Press the berries through a rough cloth. Put the juice into a preserving pan with a pound of sugar to every pound of juice. Place the pan over the fire, stir con- tinually, except when you are skimming. When ail the sugar is melted, and just when the liquid is coming through the boil, remove at once from the fire. Pour into pots, and when cold tie down. White Currant Jelly. This jelly may be made exactly the same as the red. Black Currant Jelly. Put two pints of raspberries, four pints of black currants and two pints water in an earthen jar, put the jar into a pot of boiling water and steam steadily for six or seven hours. Strain through a jelly bag into a pan, put in one pound of sugar for each pint of juice and boil for five minutes. Pour into pots, and when cold tie down. 137 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Black Currant Jam. Clean and top eight pounds of black currants, and four pints of raspberry juice and ten and a half pounds of sugar. Boil for twenty-five minutes, pour into pots, and when cold tie down. 138 XIX— FINLAND Menu Voileipatayoin (Apetisers) Porkkana-lienta Keval-lienta (Carrot Puree) (Mutton BrothJ Keitettya (Boiled Goose) Paistettna Lohta (Fried Fillets of Salmon) Syotetty Paistetta (Braised Veal) (Roast Chicken Mansikka Luumu (Blanc Mange) Yaatynytta (Stewed Plums^ t (Curdled Milk) Sippolau (Cheese) Kahvia (Coffee) T 39 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Porkkana-lienta. (Carrot Puree.) Fry in butter four pounds of a shin of beef cut in two or three pieces, a shank of mutton, a slice of ham, one carrot, a head of celery, two onions, the white part of two leeks, and half a turnip, all sliced, till they are brown. Put them in the pan with four quarts of soft cold water and a little salt. Bring to the boil, carefully skim, throw in half a pint of cold water to refresh it, and skim again. Simmer very slowly for four hours, without stirring ; let it settle on the hearth, skim off the fat and strain gently through a fine sieve. Meanwhile fry in butter, a little salt, a pinch of sugar, one pound of minced fresh carrots, and half a pound of turnips, moisten with some of the stock, put cover on and remove to the side of the fire, and boil until the stock is reduced, stirring occasionally. Dry in the oven a couple of boiled potatoes, and mix them with the carrots and turnips, and pass through a sieve into a pot, and stir in slowly the stock (which by this time will be reduced to two quarts), bring it to the boil, and stand it at the side of the fire, and sim- mer for twenty minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and skim again if necessary ; thicken with the yolks of three eggs, pour it through a fine sieve into a soup-tureen, and serve very hot. Keval-lienta. (Mutton Broth.) Take four pounds neck and breast of mutton ; cut in pieces and wash. Place them in a pot with four 140 FINLAND quarts of water and a little salt ; when come to the boil skim very carefully, add a pint of cold water and skim again. Now add two sliced parsnips, two carrots sliced in halves, half a sliced turnip, one small beetroot, a celery root, a bit of bruised ginger, and some pepper- corns. Cook very slowly till the meat is tender. Strain the soup through a hair sieve. Skim off all the fat, return to the pot with a carrot and onion, cut in slices, and a teaspoonful of sugar, whip the whites of two eggs, and mix a little of the stock in them, and add this slowly to the stock, stirring very gently all the time till it comes nearly to the boil. Then pull the pot to the side of the fire, and half an hour afterwards strain through a tammy cloth ; add a tablespoonful of parsley, and bring to the boil, and serve with small dumplings in the soup — the latter made the same as in German and Swiss receipts, only smaller. Keitettya. (Boiled Goose.) Pluck, clean, and truss a good fat goose. Put it in plenty of salted water along with sliced carrot, turnip, celery, and parsley roots, and a good bunch of fine herbs. When thoroughly cooked, dish, surrounded with the carrot and turnip, and serve. Paistettna Lohta . (Fried Fillets of Salmon. ) Take about three pounds of salmon, tail end for pre- ference, remove skin and bones, and cut into seven or 141 Spinach. BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS eight neat long-shaped fillets. Dry well, dust with pepper and salt, and fry in butter. Serve with spinach and soft poached eggs. Clean a couple of pounds, and put into plenty oi boiling water and salt, and boil very quickly, pressing it down with a spoon ; ten minutes will boil it. Drain and squeeze it dry, and throw it into cold water to pre erve the colour. Put a good piece of fresh butter and a little salt and pepper in the stewpan, return the spinach well squeezed and beat up. Then press and cut eight round pieces the shape of croutons, and put a soft poached egg on top of each piece. Syotetty. (Braised Veah Take a loin of good fat calf weighing about six pounds, wash and joint the ribs. Place it in a long pan with a quart of water, four slices of fat pork, two onions, four bay leaves, twenty-four black and twelve white pepper- corns, a teaspoonful of coriander, quarter ounce of bruised ginger, a bunch of parsley, and a little salt. Put buttered paper over the top of the pan, and then the lid so as to hermetically seal it. Push into a very hot oven ; after an hour remove the lid and paper, and baste with the gravy till the veal is cooked. If the gravy is insuffi- cient add a little hot stock. When finished, put the joint on a dish, make a sauce of the strained gravy, a little 142 PIN LAND flour, a teaspoonful each of sugar, pounded mushrooms, and sugar browning, and more stock, and salt to taste. Take some green peas, French beans, button onions, cauliflowers, and carrots, all boiled in separate waters, with which garnish the dish. Pour some of the gravy over the vegetables, and serve the rest in a sauceboat along with the potatoes. Paistetta. (Roast Chicken.) Truss, and wrap in greased paper, and roast, a large chicken in the oven. Make a roll of mashed potatoes, which put round the dish you intend to serve it in ; have ready, cut from a cold tongue, as many pieces of the shape of the quenelles ; warm gently in a little gravv, then put the quenelles on the border, having cut a piece off the end so that they may stand properly, with a piece of tongue between each ; put the fowl in the centre ; have ready made a quart of white cullis, which pour over the fowl and quenelles, glaze the tongue and serve very hot with cucumber salad and stewed cranberries. Quenelles. Take three-quarters of a pound of lean veal, and cut it in long thin slices, scrape with a knife till nothing but the skin remains, put it in a mortar, pound it ten minutes, or until in a puree, pass it through a wire sieve (use the remainder in stock) , then take half a pound of good fresh beef suet, which shred and chop very fine, put it in the mortar and pound it, then add three ounces of panada (made as under) with the suet, pound them well together, M3 Panada. BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS and add the veal ; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, half that of nutmeg, work all well together, then add two whole eggs and the white of one by degrees, continually pounding the contents of the mortar ; when well mixed take a small piece in a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water, and if it is delicate, firm, and a good flavour, it is read, for use. If you require some very delicate, add a teaspoonful of white sauce, or even thick melted butter, you can vary the flavour by the addition of a little chopped parsley, eschalot, mushroom, etc. Have two dessertspoons, fill one of them with the forcemeat, dip the other spoon into boiling water, and with it remove the forcemeat from the first spoon and slip it from that into a buttered saucepan, pro- ceeding thus till you have as many as you require ; then cover them with some second stock, and boil them about ten minutes, or until firm, and they are ready for use. These may be used as an entree with a sauce. The flesh of rabbit, fowl, hare, pheasant, black game, rabbit, partridge, pigeon, grouse, etc., may be cooked the same way. Put two-thirds of half a pint of water into a stewpan holding a quart, with nearly an ounce of butter ; when boiling, stir in a quarter pound of flour ; keep it moving over the fire till it forms a smooth and toughish paste. Take it out of the stewpan, and when cold use it where directed. 144 FINLAND Cucumber Salad. Remove the green skin from two cucumbers, and cut into very thin slices, which place on a plate and sprinkle lightly with salt ; put another plate on top and press out the moisture, after which mix with a couple of young lettuces which have been carefully cleaned, and plucked into small pieces. Pour over a plain dressing of oil, vinegar, and seasoning. Mansikka. (Blanc Mange.) Put a pint of water in a pot with two inches of vanilla and boil it till it is reduced to half. Now add one and a quarter ounces of gelatine previously softened in cold water. Stir till dissolved, then put through a hair sieve. Whip half a pint of double cream with one tablespoonful of castor sugar till it is quite stiff, then stir into it the gelatine mixture when it is cold but not stiffened, being careful to add it slowly and whip lightly all the time. When well mixed pour it into a jelly mould, and turn out in the usual manner when quite set. Serve with straw- berry sauce poured over. Strawberry Sauce. Put a pint of water in a pan with a third of the quantity of sugar, and a tablespoonful of corn-flour melted in a spoonful of cold water. Stir till it boils, then let it get cold, and mix with it as much strawberry juice as will give it a full flavour. If colour not deep enough, add a few drops of carmine. It should be as thick as single cream. 145 k BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Ltjtjmu. (Stewed Plums.) Wash two pounds of good plums, put in a preserving pan with a little water, and boil till nearly tender. Then put in two pounds of sugar first boiled in a little water till it is a strong syrup ; when the whole has boiled for another ten minutes or so, pour into a dish till cold. Put some in a glass dish with very little syrup, and heap on top stiffly-whipped cream flavoured with a little vanilla and a dash of sugar. Yaatvnytta. (Curdled Milk.) Pour sweet milk into a glass dish about two inches deep and lay it by till quite sour and quite firm. Then sprinkle ground ginger and sugar on top, and serve with sponge biscuits. A tablespoonful of sour milk added to the sweet milk will hasten the souring process. 146 XX.— FRANCE (North) Menu Pot-au-feu Bisque d'Ecrivisses (Clear Soup) (Crayfish Soup) Fillets de Soles a la Marguery (Fillets of Soles) Petites Timbales a la Montglas Boeuf a la Mode (Chicken Cream) (Braised Fillet of Beef) Sorbet aux Liqueurs (Iced Punch) Canard Sauvage a la Presse (Pressed Wild Duck) Petits Pois aux Creme (Green Peas with Cream) Souffle de Marrons (Chestnut Souffle) Truffles Glace (Truffle Ice Cream) Dessert (Fruit) 147 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Pot-au-feu. (Clear Soup.) If the soup is wanted for seven or eight persons, choose a rump of beef weighing about six pounds. Having washed it in cold water, bone and put it into an earthen- stockpot, with giblets of poultry and a little knuckle of veal ; let these meats be steeped in seven or eight quarts of cold water, observing that the stockpot should be about full ; add a small handful of salt, and set this stockpot on a moderate fire, gradually bringing the liquid to ebullition. Skim the fat off the liquid as it rises to the surface, and at the first bubbling throw in a glassful of cold water ; then remove the pot back to the side of the stove fire, so as to give it heat on one side only, this being the only means of getting a clear broth. Let the ebullition be very moderate, and steadily continued for five hours at least ; the vessel must be only partially covered. Two hours after the liquid begins to boil, add to it the half of a blanched crisped colewort, a large onion — coloured in the oven, four new carrots, three leeks, a large turnip cut up, a celery root, and a parsnip. The meat being nearly done, add to it a bunch of chervil, a few cloves, half a bay-leaf ; let it boil continually. Twenty minutes previous to serving, skim the broth of its fat ; then pass if through a fine sieve, yet without troubling it ; this done, pour it into the tureen, either all at once or in parts ; but see that it is clear. Bisque d'Ecirvisses. (Crayfish Soup.) Choose two dozen live crayfish, put them into a stew- pan with a little salt, a bunch of parsley garnished with 148 FRANCE (North) aromatics, and a few peppercorns ; moisten with a glass of good white wine, and a few fresh cut tomatoes. Cover, and boil them for ten miuntes ; then drain, take out the thick part of the tails, and pound with a little broth the remainder of the crayfish with some dry rolls, six ounces of rice boiled dry, and two anchovies. Dilute the pre- paration with the crayfish liquor and a quart and a half of veal or fish broth, pass the soup twice, season highly, warm it well without letting it boil, and add to it the crayfish tails cut in pieces, a pinch of cayenne, and a cupful of wine. Pour the soup into the tureen ; and send up separately some small croutons of bread fried in butter. Fillets be Soles a la Marguery. (Fillets of Soles ) Fillet a thick sole and place the fillets in a buttered dish. Season them with pepper and salt, and a pinch of nutmeg ; then pour over sufficient good white wine to cover them. Cover with a sheet of white kitchen paper, buttered on one side ; put the dish to cook in a very hot oven for a few minutes. Drain the fillets well, and place them on a dish (silver or china). Take the liquor in which the fillets have cooked, the yolks of four eggs, and four ounces of butter, and stir over a very slow fire to prevent curdling, stirring all the time. When the eggs and liquor have caught, it is ready. The sauce thus made is finished by mixing with it a good piece of shrimp butter. Sauce au vin blanc thus prepared is called sauce riche. 149 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Garnish the fillets of sole with shrimps and mussels, and then cover with sauce riche. Five minutes before serving place the dish in a very hot oven. Leave for five minutes to get browned, and serve immediately. Petites Timbales a la Montglas. (Chicken Cream.) Butter ten or twelve " dariole " moulds ; place on the the bottom of each of them a round of cooked truffles ; fill the hollow of the moulds with some good poultry forcemeat finished with a little sauce. Cover the force meat with a round of buttered paper, let the "timbales " poach in the " bain-marie," The forcemeat having become firm, take the moulds out, range the " timbales " in a circle on the bottom of a dish. Lay now into the hollow of the circle a " montglas " garnish, composed of fillets of poultry, pickled tongue, truffles and mush- rooms ; this garnish must be thickened with a little good sauce well reduced, and not too abundant. Serve with some veloute sauce, reduced with mushroom extract. Pheasants, partridges, grouse, black game, hares, pigeons, and rabbits, may be prepared in the same way. Veloute Sauce. Put a good piece of the best end of a knuckle of veal into a stewpan, with some good ham, some beef cut into pieces, and whatever trimmings of game or poultry the larder affords. Moisten this with strong broth, put to three carrots and four onions, parsley, thyme, and 150 , FRANCE (North) chopped mushroom, but no lemon or acid of any kind. Let the meat sweat but not brown, and prick it to let the juices flow. When the knuckle is done, skim the sauce, strain through a sieve, boil it again till well re- duced, and thicken with flour and cream to a proper consistency — rather thick than otherwise, as it can easily be thinned. Now skim and boil it once more, stirring and lifting it in a spoon, and letting it fall continually, to make it smooth and fine ; do this till it is cool. B02UF a la Mode. (Braised Beef.) Take two pounds of sirloin or fillet of beef. Cut in slices three inches long, two broad, and half-an-inch thick. Lard the pieces with good fat bacon, place them in a long-shaped pot along with three pigs' ears, eight small onions, half a sliced carrot if large, a bunch of parsley, one bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a clove stuck in one of the onions, one glass of sherry, one of water, and four ounces of well-mixed bacon cut in inch squares. Cover the pan so that no steam can escape, and place it in a moderate oven for four hours. Place meat on dish, surround with the vegetables, skim and drain the gravy, and pour over the meat. Sorbet aux Liqueurs. (Iced Punch.) Put in a freezing-pot one quart of peach-water ice, a bottle of dry champagne, two wineglassfuls of noyau, and the strained juice of four oranges. Colour it a delicate pink with a few- drops of cochineal, and flavour I5 1 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS with essence of vanilla. Work the mixture till nearly frozen, then add gradually three whites of eggs whipped in three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar ; work all together quickly till smooth, and serve in glasses. Cream-of Noyau. Take a quart of spirits sixty-two over proof, and add to it twenty drops of oil of bitter almonds and six drops of oil of orange. Mix well and add a quart of syrup, and strain till clear. Canard Sauvage a la Presse. (Roast Wild Duck Pressed.) Take a good fat wild duck, clean out thoroughly and roast in a quick oven ; see that it is rather under than quite done, as you want as much juice from the bird as possible. Put it on a portable hot plate and cover care- fully so as to keep it hot whilst being conveyed to the service table in the dining-room. Cut the breast off in thin slices and place them in a warm covered silver ashet, with a lighted spirit lamp underneath. Remove the joints and place them with the carcase in an electro- plated silver press (much the same as a large screw lemon squeezer, only bigger and stronger), and thoroughly squeeze all the moisture out on to another hot silver ashet. which place on top of a lighted spirit lamp and mix in half a teacupful of sauce made as follows : — FRANCE (North) Port Wine Sauce. Put a piece of fresh butter in a pan and fry the red parts of two large carrots and two medium-sized onions cut in small dice, a little thyme, and a bay leaf. When well browned, but not burnt, set it aflame with half a glass of Martel brandy ; add half a glass of port wine, and after boiling for one minute put in four spoonfuls of fresh tomato pulp, a slice of glaze, a large glass of port wine, and half a glass of white stock. Simmer three- quarters of an hour, pass it through a fine hair sieve, stir in a pinch of cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of gooseberry jelly, and a small piece of fresh butter. Pour over the slices cut from the breast and serve with orange salad. This is a most excellent sauce for most kinds of game, such as venison, hare, wideon, teal, wild pigeon, etc., etc. To see Mons. Frederick of the Restaurant Tours d' Argent in Paris serve this dish is as good as a play. An assistant cook with great solemnity bears from the kitchen the dish containing the bird ; he is followed by other two carrying the various ingredients for making the sauce, and two waiters come after carrying the ashets, etc., and, last of all, Mons. Frederick himself bringing up the rear. He commands the cook to show the duck to the diners and then to place it on the side table to be operated on. One of the waiters hands him a knife and fork, which he gracefully flourishes, and then deftly cuts thin slices from the breast and places them on a hot ashet. He then orders one of the cooks to put the carcase into the press, and another to turn the handles. 153 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS The sauce ingredients are with obeisance handed to him one by one, and he finishes the sauce with much thought and care. He then pours it over the slices of duck, draws himsslf up to his full height, waves his arms, and in a loud voice exclaims " Voila ! " with the air oi one who has achieved a mighty deed. Orange Salad. Take two sour juicy (not bitter) oranges, peel and divide into sections ; with a pair of scissors or a very sharp knife remove the transparent skin, pith, etc. Steep the pieces of orange flesh for an hour in a large glass of port wine, and serve in a crystal dish, Petits Pois aux Creme. (Peas with Cream.) Put a quart of fine green peas, together with a bit of butter the size of a walnut, into as much warm water as will cover them, in which let them stand for eight or ten minutes. Strain off the water, put them into a saucepan, cover it, stir frequently, and when a little tender add a bunch of parsley, nearly a dessertspoonful of sugar, and an ounce of butter mixed with a teaspoon- ful of flour ; keep stirring them now and then till the peas are tender, and add three tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Before serving take out the bunch of parsley. Souffle de Marrons a la Vanille. (Chestnut Souffle,) Line a raised pie mould with a fine short paste, filling it with rice as for a raised pie. Bake it (of a very light brown) about an hour in a moderate oven. When 154 FRANCE (North) done, empty out the rice, without taking the crust out of the mould ; then tie a band of buttered paper (four inches wide) round the top, and put to the one side until wanted. Boil sufficient chestnuts, pound them, and pass through a fine wire sieve, after which dry and pound again into a flour (if you can purchase chestnut flour it will save this trouble) . Put six ounces of chestnut flour (thus made or pur- chased), and four ounces of butter in a stewpan, and mix well without melting it. In another stew- pan have rather more than two pints of milk, into which, when boiling, put one stick of vanilla ; place a cover upon the stewpan, and let it remain until half cold, then take out the vanilla and pour the milk upon the butter and flour, stir over a sharp fire, boiling it five minutes, then stir in the yolks of five eggs quickly, and sweeten with four ounces of sugar; when cold, and an hour and a quarter before you are ready to serve, whip the whites of the five eggs very stiff, stir them in with the mixture lightly, pour into the mould paste, and bake about an hour in a moderate oven ; if going too fast, and liable to be done before required, open the oven door, as it ought to be served the moment it is done ; when ready to serve take it from the oven, detach the band of paper, take it from the mould, dress it upon a napkin on a dish, and serve immediately. Strawberry, pineapple, peach, and any kind of flavouring, may be used in place of the vanilla, and use fine Vienna flour in place of the chestnut flour. 155 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Truffles Glace. (Truffle Ice Cream) . Put half a pint of milk in a pan along with the yolks of two eggs beaten in an ounce of sugar, a stick of vanilla, and seven ounces of sugar. Stir over a slow fire till it boils • remove the vanilla stick, and stand till cold, then add the juice of a lemon, and one pint of cream, six ounces of truffles which have been cleaned, cooked, and minced very fine. Mix well and freeze in the usual manner. 156 XXI.— FRANCE (South) Menu Croutes au Pot (Crust in the Pot) Puree de Crevettes (Shrimp Soup) Boulillabaise Provenciale (Stewed Fish) Ragout de'Mouton (Stewed Mutton) Fillet de Boeuf Pique Braise (Braised Fillet of Beef) Endives de Bruxelles (Brussells Endive) Grives, Salad de Laitues (Thrushes in Casserolle) Glace Savoie (Fruit Bowl Ice) Dessert (Fruit) 157 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS ■Croutes au Pot. (Crust in the Pot.) Make a clear soup the same as Pot au Feu. Twenty minutes before serving, place some slices of bread (which have been toasted in the oven and steeped in the stock) in the tureen, along with half the cut vegetables, and pour the soup over. French Bread. Prepare a sponge or dough with two and a half pounds of sifted flour, two ounces of German yeast, four ounces of warmed butter, a little salt, sufficient lukewarm water to form a dough, and set it to prove or rise. Knead it well, and form into rolls, twists, or any fancy shapes, put these on greased baking sheets, let them rise for a short time, brush them over with milk, and bake in a quick oven. If for larger kinds of bread, keep out the butter and bake in an oven fitted up with steam pipes for diffusing moisture. Puree de Crevettes. (Shrimp Soup.) Steep two pounds of giblets, clean, and cut them into small pieces ; put them in a pot with two quarts of water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and half a salt- spoonful of roughly ground pepper. Bring slowly to the boil and skim, adding a cupful of water after the first skimming, then skim once more ; repeat this other two times. Now bring to the boil, and add a '58 FRANCE (South) quarter of a turnip, half a pound of leeks, a branch of celery (not a whole bunch), all cut into smallish pieces, a parsley root, a bouquet of fine herbs, and a large bay leaf. After boiling slowly, but steadily, for three hours, pass through a sieve, and when cold take oH the fat. Put into a clean pot and thicken with an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour. Shell a pint of shrimps, and lay one-third to the one side. Put the rest of shrimps and shells into the soup, and boil for half an hour. Strain, and then with an ounce of butter pound the shrimps and shells, and pass through a sieve. Put them gradually in the pot (which has been allowed to cool) along with a teacupful of dried bread crumbs, and continue boiling for twenty minutes, removing any skim as it rises. Stir in the other third of the shrimps, add the pulp of two large tomatoes passed through a fine sieve ; bring to the boil ; remove from the fire, and stir in a liason made of the yolks of two eggs and a cupful of cream. Boulillabaise Provenciale. (Stewed Fish.) Bring three ounces of olive oil to the boil, and fry in this, four ounces sliced leeks, two large sliced tomatoes, and a point of crushed garlic. When lightly browned put in two cupfuls of water, and bring to the boil, then put in one pound of tench, and one pound of red mullet cut in neat pieces, a middling size lobster, and three dozen mussels which have both been well washed, salt and pepper and a pinch of saffron. Boil very quickly, 159 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS skim carefully, and when the lobster is cooked break up the tail and large claws, and dish with the mussels in the shells, along with the fish and vegetables. Bring the liquor quickly to the boil and skim, then pass it over the Bouillabaise through a very fine sieve. Ragout de Mouton. (Stewed Mutton.) Cut two pounds of very lean mutton into two-inch squares ; put two ounces of butter in a pan ; when bubbling add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir till browned, but be sure not to burn. Add the meat and stir it round for twenty minutes ; add a little water to half cover the meat, a saltspoonful of pepper, four ounces salt, and four ounces of sugar, six branches of parsley, stir till it boils, then put to the one side to simmer gently. Cut thirty dice of one inch square from some turnips and fry in butter till brown ; then place them among the meat half an hour before it is cooked, which ought to be in rather more than an hour. Dish meat in a circle, and the turnips in the centre. Squeeze the bouquet of parsley, skim the gravy, and if too thin add a little white cullis, or if too thick add a little stock. Strain and pour over the meat, etc. Serve with stewed sorrel. Stewed Sorrel in Cream. Pick the sorrel, put it into a saucepan with a small quantity of water, and stir it over the fire for a few minutes. Drain the sorrel, and chop it very finely, put it into a stewpan with a large lump of butter, and stew 1 60 FRANCE (South) it over a slow fire for half an hour. At the end of that time drain off as much of the moisture as possible, dredge it with flour, pour in a quarter-pint of good strong, well- flavoured stock, and same of boiling cream, accord- ing to the quantity of sorrel. Let it simmer gently at the edge of the fire for an hour, then season it to taste with salt, and if the sorrel is acid a small quantity of sugar may be added. Beat the yolks of two eggs, pour them over the sorrel, and stir them until thickened. Serve while hot with the ragout, or it ma}- be served as a separate dish. Fillet de Bojuf Pique Braise. (Braised Fillet of Beef.) Take a fillet of beef weighing four or five pounds, lard with fillets of bacon and raw ham, previously seasoned. Trim it neatly and place it in a kitchen basin ; season, pour over half a bottle of white wine, and let it macerate for five or six hours, after which drain, and brown thoroughly on all sides in a frying-pan. Spread the bottom of a stewpan with thin layers of bacon and sliced vegetables ; set the meat thereon, add two blanched calf's feet which have also been browned in a pan along with the meat ; baste the meat with its marinade, and finish moistening to its height with broth ; cover it with layers of bacon, add to it a bunch of aro- matics, and a clove of garlic ; start the stock to ebullition, and remove the pan on to a very slow fire, with live embers on its lid, occasionally turning the meat ; when three parts done, pass the stock through a sieve, put 161 L BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS it again into the stewpan, add to this a garnish of carrots, turnips, sprigs of cauliflower, and small onions slightly blanched, and braise when ready to serve ; drain the meat, glaze and dish it up, and surround it with the vegetable and potato balls ; skim the fat off the cooking stock (which then should be half glaze), pass it through a sieve, pour it over the beef, and serve. Bruxelles Endive. (Brussels Endive.) Clean and trim a dozen Brussels endive, put them in a pan with four ounces of butter, the juice of three lemons, a quarter pint of water, a little pepper and salt. Cover the pan and cook till tender. Strain the liquor and add sufficient flour, butter, and milk, to make into a good white sauce, which pour over the vegetables. When you have dished them, serve as a separate dish. Grives, Salad de Laitues. (Thrushes in Casserolle.) Clean and truss eight thrushes. Put them in a casse- role along with six juniper berries cut in small pieces, a good bit of butter broken into pieces, pepper and salt. Cover closely and cook in the oven for twenty minutes. Dish the birds, put half a cupful of stock cullis into the casserole, heat up and pour over the birds. Serve with a salad. Salad. Cut up some well-washed endive, lettuce, dandelion leaves, or other salad herbs, and mix with tehm small 162 FRANCE (South) quantities of chopped shallot, chervil, a.nd tarragon. Mix together one teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, four tablespoonfuls of salad oil, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Put the salad herbs and dressing into a salad bowl, and mix well. Glace Savoie. (Fruit Bowl Ice.) Pare off all the pithy parts of pineapples, pears, bananas, peaches, and apricots, and slice same. Stone cherries, grapes, and plums ; and, if possible, put in a handful of red currants and strawberries. Moisten all the fruits with a glassful of vanilla-syrup mixed in one large glass of claret, one glass of brandy, and the juice of two oranges. Stir with a wooden spoon for twenty minutes, and drain off the juice, which boil with a large tablespoonful of sugar till jellied ; then stand till cold. Make a good vanilla ice cream, which place in a dish (which must be standing on ice). Place the fruit on the top of this, then put the jelly on the top of the fruit, and on top of all a good thick layer of very stiffly-whipped cream, which also has been kept standing on ice. If possible serve the glace in a dish surrounded with crushed ice. XXII— GERMANY (North) Menu Brunschweiger Wurst, Liebesapfel (Brunswick Sausage and Tomatoes) Aal Suppe mit Schwamm Klossen (Eel Soup and Floating Dumplings) Kirschen Suppe (Cherry Soup). Gedampfter Karpfen (Braised Carp) Sauer Kraut und Austern (Pickled Cabbage and Oysters) Berliner Schnitzel Puffer und Selerie (Veal Cutlets) (Pancakes and Stewed_Celeriac) Gebackene Schweinebrust mit Klossen (Baked Breast of Pork and Dumplings) Schnetze Hoellische (Woodcock in Flames) Propheten Kuchen Apfel Torte (Prophet's Cakes) (Apple Tart) Prinz Puckler Eis (Prince Pickler Ice) Frucht Kaffee (Fruit)j (Coffee) 164 GERMANY (North) Brunschweiger Wurst and Liebesapfel . (Brunswick Sausage and Tomatoes.) A thin slice of tomato, which pepper, salt, and vinegar ; place on the top a strip of Brunswick sausage slightly covered with chutney, and a strip of the white of egg on each side, and surround the whole with small pieces of lettuce dipped in vinegar, sugar, and pepper. Brunswick Sausages. Take six pounds of young pork from the legs and back ribs in the proportion of four pounds lean to two pounds fat. Remove all sinews and skin very carefully. Put through a fine mincing machine two or three times. Mix two and a half ounces salt, half ounce white pepper, and forty-five grains saltpetre : work this very thor- oughly along with half a breakfast cupful of rum into the minced pork. Get a bullock's narrow middle gut, which clean well and pack in the mixture, being careful to do this as tight as possible, pricking the skin here and there with a needle to let out the air. Tie the ends and hang up till next morning, when you will again squeeze the ends to tighten the sausage, after which have it smoked, and the slower it is smoked the better. Meat Sausage. You make this exactly the same as Brunswick sausage, only using five pounds of very lean beef minced very fine, and one pound of pork fat cut the size of dice, and leaving out the rum. 165 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Aal Suppe mit Klossen. (Eel Soup and Dumplings.) Fillet and cut in thick pieces four small eels, one small tench, and one perch ; with the heads and bones of these fish, water, wine, vegetables, and spices, prepare two quarts of good broth. Blanch in white wine three or four dozen oysters, drain and trim them, to be kept on one side, preserving their liquor. Mince, fry in butter a carrot, an onion, and a piece of celery root ; moisten these vegetables with the pre- viously prepared broth, and a little white wine ; season, add the pieces of fish, and let them boil on a moderate fire ; this done, pass the broth through a fine sieve, and skim off the fat, preserving the pieces of fish. Mix three ounces of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of flour, cook without allowing it to take colour ; dilute it with the previously prepared fish broth. Stir the liquid over the fire till boiling, then remove the stewpan to the side of the fire. Twenty-five minutes afterwards carefully skim the fat off the soup, pass it through a sieve into another stewpan, add to it shredded raw mushrooms, as well as the oyster liquor ; ten minutes afterwards thicken the soup with four yolks of eggs diluted with a little raw cream ; take it off the fire ; mix in the oysters as well as the pieces of tench, perch, and eel, carefully pared without skin and bone. Finish the soup with a pinch of cayenne, and another pinch of chopped parsley. 166 GERMANY (North) Schwamm Klossen. (Floating Dumplings.) Beat lightly three eggs into six tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, and stir in half a pint of milk. Melt two ounces of butter in a pan, mix the batter with this, and stir till cooked. Remove it from the fire, and keep stirring till nearly cold. Then add a little salt, three more eggs, one at a time, and mixing thoroughly before adding the next. Pour the whole on to a dish to the thickness of an inch. When cold, or wanted, take up a spoonful at a time, and drop into boiling water well salted. When finished pop them into the soup tureen. Kirschen Suppe. (Cherry Soup.) Boil two pounds of sour cherries with some rusks in a quart of water, adding two or three cloves. When the cherries are in pulp, remove the cloves and stones, and pass the rest through a sieve. Remove from the fire, stir in a bottle of claret, add a pinch of salt, a large pinch of cinnamon, and sugar to taste. Pour into the tureen, and, when cold, serve with twenty-four ratafia biscuits on top. Gedampfter Karpfen. (Braised Carp.) Take a small carp, about two pounds, and after thoroughly scalding, drawing, and cleansing the fish, stuff it with some quenelle forcemeat of whiting. Care must be taken to remove what is called the gall stone, which is found at the back of the head, for if not re- moved it will impart a bitter taste. Lay the fish upon 167 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS a drainer, mask over with some more forcemeat, and ornament with some fillets of soles and tails of crayfish, keeping the head clear. Cover the whole with well- buttered paper, moisten with white wine, and let it braise gently upon the fire for about half an hour. When done, place it upon a dish, garnish round with crayfish, and pour over apple and horseradish sauce with a little of the liquor in which the carp has been braised, garnish the body with pieces of crayfish, and send to table. Apple and Horseradish Sauce. Pass three large cooked apples through a fine sieve, add to this four tablespoonfuls of finely grated horse- radish, half a pint of white sour wine, a small pinch of sugar, and last of all a couple of tablespoonfuls of thick cream whipped to a froth. Mix thoroughly, and serve with any kind of fish, but more especially carp, salmon, or trout. Sauer Kraut und Austern. (Pickled Cabbage and Oysters). Press the moisture out of three pounds of sauer kraut, and put it into a pan with one pound of fresh butter, and one breakfastcupful of water. Cover closely, and steam for three hours. Strain any moisture from the sauer kraut, put it in the pan again with a bottle of Rhine wine, and stand at the side of the fire. Let it stew slowly till all the moisture has evaporated. Dish in 1 68 GERMANY (North) a border, and put in the middle the oyster ragout. Liver dumplings, Frankfort sausages, or calf's head may also be used. Oyster Ragout. Make a white sauce of half a tablespoonful of fine flour, two ounces butter, two tablespoonfuls of white cullis, the liquor of twenty-four oysters, salt to taste, the juice of half a lemon, grated nutmeg, and the yoke of two eggs. Make the sauce in the bain marie, so that the eggs may not curdle, and, when very thick, plump in two dozen bearded oysters, and just bring to boiling point, and serve. Berliner Schnitzel. (Veal Cutlets). Cut two pounds of very tender fillet of veal into neat steaks about four inches long, three inches broad, and half an inch thick. Beat them well, then dip in beaten egg and breadcrumbs. Fry in butter a golden brown. Dish, and put a squeeze of lemon on each. Fry eggs equal to the number of fillets, trim them neatly, and place one on each of the fillets. Serve with pancakes and celeriac. Lamb or mutton chops may be cooked the same way. Selerie Salat. (Celeriac Salad.) Peel and cut a fresh celery-root into fine shreds, and soak it in water for a quarter of an hour. Peel and boil four truffles for three minutes in a little Madeira wine. 169 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Rub the inside of a basin with a clove of garlic, pul in it the yokes of four ov five eggs, and mash them to a smooth paste with a spoon ; then add one teaspoonful of mustard, one teacupful of oil, a little vinegar, and some pepper and salt. Drain the celery roots and truffles, and mix them with the eggs. Turn into a salad-bowl, sprinkle over a little chopped tarragon and cloves, and serve. Puffer. (Potato Pancakes). Boil some potatoes, grate and pass through a sieve, and mix with them a good seasoning of grated onions, pepper and salt to taste, and some whipped eggs and milk. Fry the mixture in butter similar to the way you would do small round pancakes, and serve hot with a salad. Gebackene Schwetnebrust. (Baked Breast of Pork.) Take a breast of pickled pork, four or five pounds in weight, cut it open and stuff with dried fruits, such as prunes, apples, pears, apricots, etc., which have been steeped for some time. Sew up, and make into a good shape. Put in a pan on the top of some cut carrots, onions, and celery root, and pour over melted butter. Then put breadcrumbs over, and bake in the oven for two to two-and-a-half hours, and serve with potato dumplings and brown or a sweet sauce. 170 GERMANY (North) Brown Sauce. Strain the fat off the gravy and dust some flour on the glaze which will be sticking to the bottom of roasting- pan after you have removed the vegetables. Cook till brown, then add some boiling water, and make a good rich gravy of the consistency of thin cream. This sauce may be made the same way from any roast or baked meats, and is very good with roast veal. Sweet Sauce. Stew six ounces of dried cherries in two glasses of red wine, together with some bruised cinnamon, cloves, and lemon peel, for twenty minutes on a slow fire ; pass the whole through a tammy so as to make a purree, and put it into a stewpan with a little reduced brown sauce and six ounces of stewed prunes. Kartoffel Klosse. (Potato Dumplings). Clean and grate eighteen large potatoes. Steep in cold water for a couple of hours, then press in cloths till as dry as flour. Mix the same in half the quantity of boiling puree of potatoes (mashed potatoes with a little milk and butter), a seasoning of nutmeg, and salt to taste- Flour the hands, and make into balls about the size of a tennis ball, putting a small crouton in the centre of each ball. Put them into furiously-boiling, well-salted water; and twenty to thirty minutes after they have risen to the top, drain and serve. May be eaten alone, with melted butter poured over them. 171 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Schnetze Hoellische. (Woodcock in Flames.) Pluck and dress, but do not draw the trails, of two woodcocks. Thread them on a long skewer, pass them smartly over the flame of a spirit lamp for two to three minutes. Cut very thin slices from the breasts, which keep hot under cover. Put the carcases in a press, similar to a glorified lemon squeezer, and thoroughly squeeze all the juices into a chaffing dish ; add the strained juice of a sweet orange, the same of a large ripe tomato, a glass of hock, a teacupful of thick partridge cullis or good demi-glaze, and a pinch of cayenne Stir all together, and when just through the boil, strain into a hot sauceboat. When about to serve pour half a glass of brandy over the slices of woodcock, and light it ; when still burning, pour some of the sauce round, and serve before the flames die out. Serve rest of sauce separately. Snipe, golden and green plovers may be cooked in the same way, only remove trails of the latter. Propheten Kuchen. (Prophet's Cakes.) Nine ounces flour, three and a half ounces butter, five eggs, and two spoonfuls of cream, and s. very small pinch of salt. Mix all together and roll the paste out thin, and cut into fancy shapes. Put on a tin, brush the tops with melted butter, sprinkle with fine sugar, and bake in the oven. Apfel Torte. (Apple Tart.) Cut in quarters seven or eight good apples ; peel them, pare away the hard parts round the core, cut in 172 GERMANY (North) thick slices ; put them into a kitchen basin, sprinkle over a little powder sugar ; macerate for half an hour, tossing them from time to time. Place a round tin form about one inch deep on a baking sheet, line it with short crust, and bake. Sprinkle over the apples two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and two or three tablespoonfuls of plumped currants ; after which put in the form, arranging in a slight dome, rising above the level of the rim, as apples diminish their volume in cooking. Make a good custard, which pour over the apples, etc., and put into the oven till custard is firm. Decorate with whipped cream. Custard Sauce. Take two pints of milk, to which add the yolk of two eggs, and beat up ; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon and nutmeg, and a bay-leaf. Put it into a saucepan on the fire until it nearly boils ; keep stirring it well during the time ; take out the bay leaf. Rich Short Crust. Six ounces flour, three ounces butter, one yolk of an egg, one dessertspoonful castor sugar, a pinch of salt, lemon juice and water. Rub the butter into the flour, then mix in the yolk, then the sugar, salt, and lemon with a little water ; mix all to a stiff dough, and roll out once. J 73 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Prinz Puckler Eis. (Prince Pickler Ice.) Beat the yolks of six eggs and put them on the fire in a pan, and pour in three-quarters of a pint of milk gradually, and half a pound of powdered sugar, and stir till it becomes thickish ; then pass it through, a fine sieve. When cold, stir in a pint of well-whipped double cream, and freeze. You will now divide the cream into three portions of (i) one-fourth, (2) one-half, (3) three- fourths. Into the first put some raspberry juice and enrich the colour with a little cochineal, and then press into an ice mould. Into the second put a good handful of pounded ratafia biscuits and a few drops of essence of sweet almonds, and press it in the mould on the top of No. 1 ; and into the third you will put a handful of finely chopped pistachio nuts, a glass of green chartreuse, and some green colouring, and put in the mould on top of No. 2. Cover very carefully, and pack in ice for three or four hours, and turn out in the usual way. Any of the foregoing combinations can be used as a single ice cream ; and others can be made by substituting peach, apricot, strawberry, pineapple, lemon, orange, chocolate, or coffee flavourings or pulps. If desired to make the ice lighter, leave out the custard, and use only whipped cream. ' 174 XXIII.— GERMANY (South) Menu Schnecken Suppe (Snail Soup) Wein Suppe (Wine Soup) Forellen mit Kartoffeln Salad (Trout and Potato Salad) Kalte Ganseleberstuckchen (Goose Liver Cutlets) Rebhuhner mit Rotkraut und Spatzle (Partridge, Red Cabbage, etc.) Kalbfleisch mit Leber Knodel (Braised Veal and Liver Dumplings) Mandel Torte (Almond Tart) R eicher Fi (Rich Bi Kirsch Eis (Kirsch Cream Ice) Frucht (Fruit) Kaffee (Coffee) 175 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Schnecken Suppe. (Snail Soup.) Take fifty snails, with unopened shells, from a vine- yard, wash and put them in boiling salted water, and cook for an hour. With a fork take the snails out of the shells, remove the black skin, cut off the ring, also the very tip, and cover with a handful of salt, and keep till the slime is loosened ; then wash them in four different warm waters. Squeeze free of all the water, and boil them in a good seasoned white stock till they are quite soft and tender. Mince very fine two-thirds (keep the other third warm to be placed in the soup tureen), and toss them for two or three minutes in boiling butter ; add as much stock as is required for the soup, with a seasoning of grated nutmeg, and more pepper and salt if required. Boil for a couple of minutes, remove the pot to the side of the fire and stir in the yolks of three eggs. Put a couple of slices of toast in the bottom of a sonp tureen, the other third of the snails on top, and pour the soup over them. Serve at once. Wein Suppe. (Wine Soup.) Melt three ounces of butter in a pan, mix the same weight of flour, cook for a few minutes, stirring all the time so as not to brown. Now pour in two quarts of light white wine ; stir till it boils, and remove to the side of the fire for about half an hour, so that it may clear. Put into a small pan a tablespoonful of rum, and the same of white wine, a small piece of sliced ginger, half a stick of cinnamon, two ounces of sugar, and the juice 176 GERMANY (South) of half a lemon. Put the lid on, and put the pan in a bain-marie. Skim the soup of all grease, and thicken with the whipped yolks of three eggs which have been thinned with a little water. Stir all over the fire ; but on no account let it boil. Pass it through a fine sieve into another pot, put in four ounces of butter broken up into little bits. Strain the rum and wine sauce, and mix with the soup. FORELLEN MIT KARTOFFELN SALAD. (Trout and Potato Salad). Take four trout about half a pound each in weight, clean, and cut in two. Fry for two minutes on each side in butter, having first sprinkled some fine herbs and salt over them. Now pour off the butter, then add sufficient reduced crayfish cuius to cover the trout. Bring to the boil, dish neatly, and decorate with crayfish tails. Strain the sauce into a boat, and serve along with potato salad. Potato Salad. Boil some small round potatoes in their skins ; they must not be overdone. Pour the water off and stand till cold. Remove the skins and cut in thin slices. Chop a shallot very small, some chervil and parsley. Mix with the sliced potatoes. Make a dressing of oil, salt, pepper, vinegar, and a little very thick cream, and pour over. Sprinkle some of the chervil and parsley on top. Decorate with sliced beetroot andpickled red cabbage. 177 M BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Chaufroid von Ganseleberstuckchen. (Goose's Liver Cutlets.) After braising, remove fat from the livers and place them on ice for a few hours. When quite firm divide and shape the preparation into cutlet shapes. Coat the cutlets with chaufroid and clear sauce, and leave them till they are cold. Trim again, and arrange neatly on a dish decorated with chopped parsley and chopped aspic jelly in different colours, and a piece of truffle on top of each cutlet. White Chaufroid Sauce. Heat separately half a pint of supreme sauce, add a gill of aspic jelly, then mix all together in a pan. Soak five leaves of French gelatine in milk till perfectly soft, then squeeze them dry, and put in the pan ; also put in half a teaspoonful of chillie vinegar, add two dessert- spoonfuls of lemon juice ; bring all to the boil, and draw the pan to the side of the fire and simmer for half a minute, after which pass through a tammy cloth, and stir in a gill of thick cream. Green Chaufroid Sauce. Proceed exactly the same as above, colouring with some vegetable green. Rebhuhner mit Rotkraut. (Partridge with Red Cabbage.) Wash two pounds of red cabbage, drain it well, and cut in shreds ; put it into a stewpan, with good goose-fat, 178 GERMANY (South or the toppings of a braise-stock, a bunch of parsley and aromatics, one onion, one carrot, and half a pound of streaky bacon previously steeped in tepid water ; moisten it with about a pint of broth, place on the top a piece of bacon rind, or that of ham ; let the liquid boil for ten minutes, then cover the stewpan hermetically, and draw it on to a slow fire, with hot ashes on the lid, or set it at the entrance of the oven, cooking the cabbage till nearly tender. Meanwhile, singe and truss two large partridges ; lard, fry them in a stewpan with butter, and, when half- done, take them off the fire. When the cabbage is about cooked, baste it with half a pint of good white wine ; cover the stewpan again, and reduce the stock over a good fire ; then take out the rind, the bacon, and the vegetables, thicken the cabbage with a few table- spoonfuls of sauce, and add the partridges. Place the lid on the stewpan, set it on a very slow fire, and a quarter of an hour after dish up the cabbage, putting the patridges on top, and surrounding them with the bacon, pared and cut up ; with a paste brush spread some thick glaze on top of them. Spatzle (Swabish Macaroni.) Half a pound flour, three eggs, nine ounces of water, and salt to taste. Put the flour in a bowl, and make a well, break in the eggs whole, add the water and salt, and mix lightly with a wooden spoon. Have a very large pan of boiling salted water ; put some of the batter on a flat piece of 179 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS wood, and slice off very narrow strips about three inches long, like thick macaroni, into the pan with the back of the knife, dipping the knife into the water after every third slice. When twenty or thirty slices have been cooked (about two minutes), which you will see when they rise to the top, lilt them out with a skimmer, and place on a sieve which is standing in cold water, and drain very quickly, and put in a dish and stand in the oven to keep warm. Continue this process till all the dough is used up. Very lightly brown some butter, and just before dishing pour it over the Spatzle. KALBSFLEISCH MIT LEBER KnODEL. (Roast Veal and Liver Dumplings.) Cut about six pounds of tender veal from the thick end of the leg, rub with salt, and place in a roasting pan in which you have heated half a pound of butter. Fry both sides lightly, then put it into the oven with three large onions cut in thick slices, and cook for one and a half hours or till ready, being sure to baste very often. Take the roast out, pour into the pan two cupfuls of water and a little salt if necessary, and bring to the boil, stirring all the time to take up the glaze which will be in the bottom of the pan. Strain, and put back into the pan, and stir in two cupfuls of thick sweet cream. Heat up and serve in a sauceboat. Dish the roast, and serve with any seasonable vege- tables, mashed potatoes, liver dumplings, and the cream sauce. 1 80 GERMANY (South) Lkber Knodel. (Liver Dumplings.) Pound and pass through a sieve one pound of calf's liver. Steam in butter two sliced onions, some minced parsley and marjoram, a pinch of nutmeg, and pepper and salt to taste. Cut six and a half ounces of white bread in thin slices and soak in milk, then press all the moisture out. Beat six eggs, and mix with a handful of flour the bread, liver, onions, and herbs, after thoroughty working, pass all again through a sieve, and make into balls twice the size of a walnut, and boil gently for ten minute^ in salt water. Boil one, and, if too thin, add more flour, and, if too stiff, add a little milk. Add more salt if necessary. Dish on a hot plate, and sprinkle with white or brown bread crumbs fried in butter. If to be served as a separate dish, or to be eaten with sour krout, use a good white sauce. Mandei. Torte. (Almond Tart.) Skin, dry, and pound with a little orange water, five ounces of sweet and a quarter ounce of bitter al- monds, pass through a sieve with three and a half ounces sifted sugar, and a pinch of nutmeg. Put in the yolks of four eggs, and work for half an hour. Whip the whites into a stiff froth, and stir in lightly. Having warmed a small tablespoonful ot cornflour (Indian), sift it in along with a pinch of baking powder, and mix all lightly together. Paper and grease a tin form, and half fill with the mixture, bake in a moderate but steady oven for an hour and a quarter. Remove from the tin, 181 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS and, when cold, decorate with butter and whipped cream. Be careful in handling the cake before it is fired, or as long as it is warm. Richer Frucht-Kuchen. (Rich Fruit Cake — Brown.) One pound flour, half-pound currants, half-pound large raisins, half a pound of cut citron, three-quarters of a pound of brown sugar, half-pound butter, two tea- spoonfuls mixed spice, rind of one lemon (grated), one teaspoonful soda, salt, half-bottle dark sweet beer, four eggs. Rub butter into flour, add fruit, spice, rind, and salt. Mix well. Heat the beer, pour it over the soda ; beat the eggs a little, add them with the beer and soda ; mix well, and beat a few minutes. Bake in a moderate oven for two and a half to three hours. When cool, cut in finger lengths, and cover tops with marzipan. (For British, do not cover with marzipan.) Keep a week before cutting it. Kirsch-Eis. (Kirsch Ice Cream.) Whip in a stewpan four yolks of eggs and one whole egg ; add a quarter-pound of powdered sugar as well as one glass of kirsch. Whip the preparation on a very moderate fire, or in the " bain-marie," until quite frothy ; then set the stewpan over a brisk fire, whip the pre- paration again for two minutes only, then remove it back. Continue whipping off the fire until all its heat be gone, add a pint of whipped cream, then whip again 182 GERMANY (South on ice until quite cold and quite firm. This done, place in a freezer, and freeze in the usual manner. Marischino Ice Cream may be made the same way. Kirsch Wasser. Oil of cinnamon, one drop ; oil of cloves, one drop ; oil of bitter almonds, one-half drachm ; oil of rose, three drops ; rectified spirit, five pints ; cherry syrup, eight pounds. Water to make 24 ounces. Mix the oils and spirits, mix syrup with water, then put altogether and filter till quite clear. Rye Bread. Mix three-quarters of a dessert-spoonful of salt, and one ounce of sugar in two pounds of rye flour. Dissolve one ounce of yeast in a pint of tepid water, strain this on the flour, and knead the whole together. Put the dough to rise in a warm place, cover with a cloth and let it swell to twice its original size, then turn it on to a floured board, and knead it, in so much flour, with an ounce of butter and a handful of carraway seeds, that it no longer sticks to the fingers. Divide into loaves about eighteen inches long and two thick and tapering at the ends. Make an incision longways on the top, set to rise for another twenty minutes near the fire, and bake in a good oven. Unleavened Rye Bread. Make the same as leavened, only using rough ground rye, a handful of rye bran, an ounce each of carbonate 183 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS of soda and cream of tartar, and leave out the butter, sugar, carraways, and yeast. Form into loaves about twelve inches long, six inches high, and six inches broad, and bake in the oven. 184 XXIV.— GREECE Menu Soupa apo Hortarica (Green Soup) Anthi'as mai Ksinoglikon Karikavma (Pike with Sour-Sweet Sauce) Pseto Ami (Roast Lamb) Elaiai Paraghemism^nai mai Kastana (Olives Stuffed with Chestnuts) Pasta mai Paraghemisma Kreatos (Meat Dumpling's) Yaprakia Yachni Lachanika (Dolmas of Lettuce) (Stewed Vegetables) Skolopaks Psitos (Roast Snipe) Rodakina Glikisma Loukoumi (Macedoine of Peaches) (Honey and Pistachio Sweet) Paghoton Anthous Portokaleas (Orange Blossom Ice) Epidorpion (Fruit) i8 5 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Soupa apo Hortarica. (Green Soup.) Chop finely two tablespoonfuls of onions, which put in a saucepan with a piece of butter and fry, but not colour ; sprinkle in two tablespoonfuls of flour ; cook for a few minutes ; remove the saucepan from the fire and pour in slowly half a gallon of rich broth. Stir well until the liquor boils, then simmer it till the liquor is moderately thick. Put to the above two cleansed and trussed young fowls, and cook for about three- quarters of an hour. When cooked, take them out, skim the fat from the liquor, and pass through a fine sieve into another pan. Stir in a few tablespoonfuls of boiled sour crout, and cook for about fifteen minutes longer. Cut off all the flesh from the fowls, put it into the soup, and boil for another ten minutes : add two or three tablespoonfuls of nettle or sorrel leaves boiled and passed through a sieve. Stir for a few minutes, and serve. ANTHIAS MAI KSINOGLIKON KARIKEVMA. (Pike, with Sour-Sweet Sauce.) Cut up in lengths a filleted pike weighing from two to three pounds, place them in a basin with a good hand- ful of salt and a little water, keeping them thus for one hour ; then wipe them on a cloth, flour, and arrange them, one beside the other, in a stewpan ; spread the bottom of the pan with butter ; moisten to three-parts their height with vinegar ; add a bunch of parsley with aromatics, a pinch of pepper, one tablespoonful of red 186 GREECE currant jelly, one handful of raisins, and a few peeled shred almonds. Let the preparation boil ; close the stewpan hermetically, and put it on a very slow fire, with hot ashes on the lid, or in a slow oven, stewing the fish thus for one hour. When ready to serve, colour the sauce with a few drops of cochineal, and dish it up ; at each end of the dish place a group of horse-radish shavings. Pseto Arni (Roast Lamb). A whole lamb of the average weight of I s ! to 20 lbs., roasted on a spit made out of the branches of a tree about four yards long. The lamb is first cleaned, then salted and peppered, both inside and out. The fire is of wood, made in the open, or, if in a. town, in a courtyard. The lamb is placed at a slight distance from the fire, as it must roast slowly, not quickly. The roasting takes from three to four hours, during which time the spit must be turned briskly and the lamb basted with a preparation of water, lemon juice, salt, and plenty of pepper. When drawn from the fire the lamb should look simply whiteish. It is eaten hot, but more often cold. Lamb thus prepared is eaten all over Greece on Easter Sunday, and for 30 to 40 days after. Elaiai Paraghemismenai mai Kastana. (Olives Stuffed with Chestnuts.) Procure twelve large olives and six chestnuts. Put two ounces of butter into an enamelled saucepan, with two ounces of ham cut into small pieces, a moderate- 187 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS sized carrot and onion peeled and cut into thin slices, and fry them until they are brown. Then add a bay- leaf, a blade of mace, four or five peppercorns ; dredge in one tablespoonful of flour, and moisten with some of the liquor from the olives. Stir the whole until mixed, then place the pan over the fire for an hour, and stir occasionally. Boil the chestnuts, and when tender peel them, put them in a mortar with one ounce of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, and pound until smooth. Peel the olives, remove the stones, fill the hollows with the chestnuts, and lay them in a rather shallow lined stewpan. Strain the above sauce over them, carefully, and simmer at the edge of the fire till hot through. Cut a thick slice of bread, fry it in butter till a light brown, then drain and scoop out the centre, making a hollow large enough to hold the olives. When ready, put the olives on the bread, place it on a hot dish, garnish tastefully round with quarters of hard-boiled eggs, pour the sauce round the bread, and serve while very hot as a separate dish. Pasta mai Paraghemisma Kreatas. (Meat Dumplings.) Take some meat off a braised loin of mutton (a pound) ; pare away the tough parts, chop, and pound it together with a cooked sheep's brain ; season this mince ; add to it three or four tablespoonfuls of cooked fine-herbs, and two or three yolks of eggs. Roll out, on a floured table, a pound and a quarter of puff-paste in a thin, square flat ; moisten the paste with 188 GREECE a paste-brush, and set on half of its surface the prepared mince, divided into small balls, these being placed in straight at half an inch distance. With the remainder of the paste cover the other part, press it in the intervals , and then stamp out the " ravioles " of a round form, with a plain round cutter. Ten minutes before serving plunge them into salted boiling water ; boil them for three or four minutes, and then drain them on a sieve '. place them afterwards on a dish, by layers, each sprinkled with grated parmesan ; pour over a few spoonfuls of good gravy, thickened with tomato sauce. Rough Puff Pastry. Half a pound of flour, quarter-pound of butter, squeeze of lemon juice, salt and water. In the flour break butter in pieces, add salt and lemon ; mix to a dough with a little water, and roll out into a strip. Fold in three, and half turn, and roll out again. Do this four or five times. Keep in a wet cloth until next day. If for sweet pastry add a dessertspoonful of sugar when mixing the dough. Yaprakia. (Dolmas of Lettuce.; Strip the leaves off a large lettuce, wash thoroughly, put them into a saucepan of warm salted water. Take them out, plunge into cold water, and dry them. In the meantime prepare one-and-a-quarter pounds of forcemeat, using an equal quantity of finely chopped 189 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS fat bacon and lean mutton, two eggs, a small quantity of chopped onion, a handful of sifted breadcrumbs, two or three tablespoonfuls of minced mushrooms, and a little minced parsley. Divide this into pieces about the size of a walnut, wrap them up separately in pieces of the leaves, put them close together in a saucepan, sprinkle well with salt, pour over a little melted butter, and add broth to half their height. Cover them over, and cook until the liquor is reduced to a glaze, then remove the pan to the side. Boil in stock ten ounces of rice, and finish with butter and grated Parmesan cheese. Place a thick layer of this rice in an entree dish, and very carefully arrange the dolmas on top. Pour a rich lemon sauce over all, and put in a very hot oven for three minutes. Lemon Sauce. Beat up three eggs, which add to two cupfuls of the stock with a little pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon ; heat up, but do not boil. Yachni Lachanika. (Stewed Vegetables.) Cut the two ends off a dozen green capsicums, let them macerate in salt for a quarter of an hour, wash them afterwards in warm water, and boil them quickly in salted water, keeping them green. Boil likewise in salted water two handfuls of tender French beans. Cut in oblong squares an egg-plant, and macerate them to extract the water. Split in the middle two good toma- toes, freed of the pips, and cut them in bits. Remove 190 GREECE the stem and core of a few green sweet peppers or pimen- toes, slice the flesh lengthwise, and fry them for five minutes. Slice an onion, put it into a frying-pan with oil, and fry without allowing it to take colour ; add the pimentoes, half cooking them, and tossing frequently ; add the egg-plant, and a few minutes after the tomatoes ; fry the vegetables until their moisture be evaporated, introduce into them the beans, season with salt, a little cayenne, a little parsley, chopped with half a point of garlic ; at the last moment add the capsicums, previously warmed up in a frying-pan with oil, whole if small, or, if large, cut in thick slices : two minutes after dish the calalou. Serve as a separate dish. Skolopaks Psitos. (Roast Snipe.) Pluck, singe, and draw two brace of snipe, and remove the backbones. Finely chop some fresh pork, and mix with it an equal quantity of chopped raw mushrooms, one pinch of shallot, some parsley, and pepper. Fill the birds with the above mixture, sew them up, and truss them. Fix the snipe on a spit, and roast them in front of a clear fire, basting them continually with butter. Place some slices of bread beneath the birds in the dripping pan. Put two sliced onions into a stewpan with a small lump of butter, season them with pepper and salt, and fry till nicely browned ; then dredge in a little flour, and stir in gradu- ally about half a pint of stock, and boil until the onions are cooked. 191 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Fry the trails of the snipe with four chickens' livers : season, pound, and pass them through a fine hair sieve. Put the puree of trails into a saucepan with a little white wine and the onions ; stir them over the fire for a few minutes, but do not allow them to boil. When cooked remove the snipe from the fire, brush them over with melted glaze, put the pieces of bread from the dripping- pan on a hot dish, stand the snipe on them, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Rodakina Gltkisma. (Macedoine of Peaches.) Get four large peaches, being not over-ripe, divide each of them in two pieces, remove the stones. Pare the finest pieces round, plunge them into boiling water, wherein leave them until their skin is easily to be re- moved ; a few moments will do. Drain them immedi- ately, place them in a kitchen basin, and cover with cold vanilla syrup, and steep for an hour. With a vegetable cutter cut out little balls of pears, boil them very slightly in light syrup, drain, place them in a basin, add a few drops of cochineal, as well as one tablespoonful of sugar syrup flavoured with vanilla, and macerate them for half an hour. Half an hour previous to serving, drain the peaches, whip the yolks of four eggs and put in a pan with four ounces of white wine, the grated peel of half a large lemon, and a tablespoonful of sugar. Whip this on the fire till quite stiff, but do not boil it. Pour into a dish, and, ' when cold, put heaps pyramid form into the hollow 192 GREECE of the halves of the peaches ; put the balls of apples drained and cut into two round the edges. Mask the preparation (not the pears) with half set lemon jelly, dish the peaches on a gum paste bottom, having a small support on its centre ; seven or eight in a circle, one in the middle ; garnish the bottom of the difh with fancy shaped pieces of calf's foot orange jelly, and whipped cream. Loukoumi. (Honey and Pistachio Sweet.) Take one pound of honey, one ounce of gelatine, half the rind of a large lemon, the rind and juice of one orange, two ounces of pistachio nuts, one tablespoonful brandy, and a small teacupful of cold water. Soak the gelatine in the water, and, when quite soft, put it along with the honey on to boil for twenty minutes, giving an occasional stir. Peel the rind of the orange and lemon very thinly (there must be no white pith), and add to the boiling liquid along with the brandy, and let it stand by the fire for fifteen minutes to extract the flavour. Remove the orange and lemon peel, and add the orange juice along with the pistachios, which you have split, and stand at side of fire for other five minutes, after which pour into a greased tin. When cold and firm, draw the jelly out of the tin and cut into squares. Roll the squares in cornflour, and let them stand for a day, and then rub them in icing sugar. In damp weather the jelly may take longer than a day to become sufficiently dry to roll in icing sugar. 193 N BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Paghoton Anthous Portokaleas (Orange Blossom Ice.) Bruise to a paste a pound of very fresh pistachios in a mortar, with a handful of sugar. Dilute with two pints of nearly cold English cream ; let it infuse for half an hour ; pass the preparation through a sieve, and freeze in the usual manner. Ten minutes previous to dressing the ice, gradually introduce into it five or six tablespoonfuls of genuine orange-blossoms (eau de fleurs d'oranger), previously mixed up with a little cold syrup and a little of the pre- paration. Now dish the ice in a rock shape on a folded napkin. 194 XXV.— HAWAII Menu Moa Puaa Ka Ka (Baked Chickens) (Baked Pig) (Baked Duck) Ama-ama Ka ma no Lomi Olepe (Roast Mullets) (Raw Salmon) (Baked Oysters) Ula (Baked Crayfish) Kulolo Koele Palau (Cocoanut and Taro Pudding) (Potato Pudding) Haupia (Arrowroot Blanc Mange) Luau (Stewed Taro Leaves) Poi (Taro Root Bread) 195 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Puaa. (Baked Pig.) Dig a hole in the ground, line it with stones, and kindle a fierce fire on the top. After this has been burning for some hours, take a pig which has been killed and properly cleaned in the usual manner, roll it on the top of the hot stones, and sear the skin so that it can be easily removed. Cut open and make a second cut under the fore shoulder. Remove the fire from the top of the stones, put some of the latter inside the pig, fine the stones with ti and banana leaves, and place the pig therein. Place leaves on top, a mat on top of the leaves, and last of all some earth on the top of the mat. At the end of some two or three hours, according to the size of the pig, it will be cooked. In place of the foregoing, brown the pig before the fire, then put in a vessel and cover closely, and finish cooking in an oven. Serve with baked sweet potatoes, luau beer, and poi. Moa. (Baked Chickens.) Clean and truss a chicken, wrap in leaves, and cook in the same way as the pig, and preferably at the same time and in the same oven. Eat with baked taro leaves and poi. Ka Ka. (Baked Duck.) Clean and truss a duck, wrap in leaves, and cook in the same way as the pig, and preferably at the same time 196 HAWAII and in the same stone oven. Eat with the inside of bread plant baked in ti or banana leaves. Ama-ama. (Roast Mullet.) Clean as if for boiling a good-sized fish. Sprinkle on a little salt, wrap well in ti leaves, and put on the coals to cook, turning very frequently. Serve with cocoanut sauce. Kaihelo. (Cocoanut Sauce.) Grate a cocoanut, then take some raw shrimps, and sprinkle on them a little salt, pound them to a smooth paste, which put in a muslin cloth, and squeeze the juice over the grated cocoanut. Ka ma no Lomi. (Raw Salmon.) Clean a handy-sized fish, scrape off the scales, and massage the pieces of fish with your hands under water ; during this process mix small pieces of onion, green pepper, and tomatoes with the fish. This is served with red rock salt, dried fish, ground cocoanut, and a little red pepper, all on separate dishes. Ula. (Baked Crayfish.) Wrap the fish in ti and banana leaves, and bake in the same oven as the pig. 197 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Olepe. (Baked Oysters.) Wrap the oysters in ti and banana leaves, and bake in the same oven as the pig. Eat from the shells. Kulolo. (Cocoanut and Taro Pudding.) Grate five cocoanuts, pour a quart and a half of boiling water over it, and stand for fifteen minutes ; squeeze through a cloth, and mix with grated taro ; add a little water — about a pint of water to a quart of cocoanut juice. Add a little sugar. Use two taro roots to five cocoanuts. Mix well together, put the mass into ti leaves, and bake with other meats. Koele Palau. (Potato Pudding.) Pound and mash some sweet potatoes which have been baked under ground or well boiled, and mix, while hot, with the juice of grated cocoanut ; set aside till cold, and it is ready for eating. Haupia. (Arrowroot Blanc Mange.) Mix arrowroot with the juice of grated cocoanut. Heat some of the juice, and, when very hot, stir it into the mass. Set aside to cool. This somewhat resembles blanc-mange. Luau. (Stewed Taro Leaves.) Clean the leaves from young plants, and boil till tender, and mash and serve same as spinach — which it very much resembles. 198 HAWAII Poi. (Taro Root Bread.) Clean and scrape some taro roots, boil in salt water, and pound into a paste, adding some water to make it like soft dough, and place in a calabash or bowl. Eat with fish and meats. 199 XXVI.— HEBREW Menu Tafshil Tohor Im Dogim Agoolim (Clear Soup with Dropped Fish Balls) Dgei Prurim (Halibut Collops) Eisev (Salad) Bossor Achoraim-im-Tznon Dack Petuchei Adomo Agulim (Roast Beef with Horse-radish Sauce) (Potato Balls) Bossor-ouf-Entil (Ragout of Duck) Petuchei Adomo im Cholov (Creamed Potatoes) Petuchei Perurim (Potato Fritters) Cinarias (Asparagus) Matzo Tafshil (Motza Pudding) Seder Rishon Charossos (First Night Seder Pudding) Pree (Fruit) zoo HEBREW Tafshil Tohor Im Dogim Agoolim. (Clear Soup with Dropped Fish Balls.) Four quarts of water and a wineglassful of wine, one onion and a slice of carrot chopped, two cloves, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful of vinegar, the juice of half a lemon, a little mace, and a bunch of parsley, also the head of a codfish and the trimmings and bones from any fried and stewed fish. Cover and boil slowly for one hour, strain through fine muslin, and keep the liquor hot for the balls. Dropped Fish Balls. One pound of raw fish without the bones, and two pounds of pared potatoes, two eggs, butter the size of an egg, and some salt and pepper. Boil the fish and potatoes for half an hour. Drain off all the water, mash all together, and pass through a fine sieve ; now add the butter, eggs, salt, and pepper, and work very well so as to get all thoroughly mixed. Have a deep kettle of boiling oil ready. Put spoonful after spoonful into the oil, and fry a nice brown. Place them into the tureen, and pour the bouillon over them and serve. Substitute stock and some flour for the butter and eggs if strict kosher is to be observed. Dgei Prurim. (Halibut Collops.) Cut a piece of halibut into nice shaped fillets. Make some good broth with the bones and odd bits of fish, an onion cut in quarters, a bit of celery, a bunch of pars- 301 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS ley, and seasoning of pepper and salt. Strain, and thicken it with a little flour. Fry the fillets and stew them in the sauce for half an hour, to which you have added a little mace and two spoonfuls of onion juice. Serve with salad. Eisev. (Celery and Apple Salad with Mayonnaise.) Scrape, pare, and thoroughly clean, and drain well, a stock of crisp white celery. Peel and core two medium- sized apples. Cut both celery and apples into thin cord-like strips ; put in a salad bowl with a handful each of water and mustard cress, and just before sending to table mix in a couple of tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce and a teaspoonful chopped chervil. Mayonnaise Sauce. In a bowl mix the yolks of two raw eggs, a tea- spoonful dry mustard, and a small saltspoonful salt with a wooden spoon until it is a stiff paste ; then begin to add, drop by drop only, stirring all the time, a small quantity of oil, after this has been well mixed. Add three glasses of oil, drop by drop, stirring all the time (on no account must you stop stirring) until it is smooth, thick, and creamy. Finish with a tablespoonful of the juice of a lemon, added drop by drop — a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar does equally well, if not better. If the dressing should curdle, whip in a dessertspoonful of very thick cream. 202 HEBREW BOSSOR ACHORAIM-IM-TZNON DACK. (Roast Beef with Horse-radish Sauce.) Having hung the joint till tender, cover with oiled paper, and place it about eighteen inches from the fire ; about one hour after it has been down, remove the paper, and place the joint nearer the fire, and put half a pint of water, with a little salt, in the dripping pan ; about a quarter of an hour before removing from the fire, dredge it with flour and salt from the dredging box ; when taken from the fire, empty the contents of the dripping pan into a basin, from which remove the fat ; pour the gravy in the dish, and then place the joint on it. Serve with horseradish sauce and potato balls. Horse-radish Sauce. Mix a teaspoonful of mustard, two tablespoonfuls of well- whipped cream, and one of wine vinegar ; add a little salt, a tablespoonful of grated horseradish, and a teaspoonful of brown sugar. Mix all together, and serve in a sauce-tureen. It should be made at least an hour before serving. Use white stock in place of cream, as the latter is not orthodox kosher with meat. Petuchei Adomo Agulim. (Potato Balls.) Roast twelve fine potatoes ; when done, take out the interior, which form into a ball ; when cold put them into a mortar, with a little nut oil ; pound them well together, season with a little salt, pepper, chopped eschalots, chopped parsley, and grated 203 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS nutmeg ; mix them with the yolks of six and two whole eggs ; then form them into balls about the size and shape of a small egg ; bread-crumb them twice over, and fry to a light brown colour in a stewpan of hot oil. Bossor-ouf-Entil. (Ragout of Duck.) Half roast a duck, and divide it into joints or neatly cut pieces ; put it into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of broth or water, with any trimmings of meat, a large onion stuck with cloves, allspice and black pepper, and the rind of a lemon cut very thin. Bring the con- tents of the pan to the boil and skim it clean, then let it simmer gently, with the lid closed, for an hour and a half. Take out the pieces of duck, and strain the gravy. Put two ounces of a good beef dripping into a small stewpan, and sufficient flour to make it rather a stiff paste, and then stir in the gravy gradually. Let it boil up ; then add the juice of half a lemon, a glass of wine, and a little salt. Put the duck in a dish and pour the gravy over it, and dish up. Serve with mashed potatoes. Petuchei Perurim. (Potato Fritters.) Mix one teacupful of grated boiled salt tongue, one breakfastcupful of mashed potatoes, and one tablespoon- ful of finely-pounded bread crumbs, and a little white pepper, grated nutmeg, and salt to taste ; drop in an egg, pound all together in a mortar, then roll out half an inch thick, and cut with a cutter about two inches in diameter 204 HEBREW into round cakes. Mix together a little grated tongue, minced parsley, bread crumbs, a little white pepper, and salt ; brush the fritters over with a beaten egg, then dip them into the mixture, and fry them in boiling oil to a light brown. Cut a round slice of bread an inch thick, and five in diameter, cut a hole in the centre two inches in diameter, and fry also to a light brown. Have an egg boiled hard, mince the yolk and white separately, colour the half of the white with cochineal, then mix the three colours together. When the fritters are to be served, put the bread in the centre of the entree dish, fill the hole with the minced egg, arrange the fritters tastefully around it, and garnish with a little parsley. Serve sauce in a boat — a good sauce from which bacon, eggs, and cream have been eliminated. Cinarias. (Asparagus.) Scrape and clip off the ends of two bunches of fresh asparagus. Thoroughly wash, and tie them up in three bunches, plunge them into three quarts boiling water, with a tablespoonful of salt, and boil for fifteen minutes. Remove, and drain well. Mix on a plate one ounce grated Gruyere and one ounce grated Parmesan cheese. Lightly oil a baking dish, arrange a third of the asparagus as a layer at the bottom, sprinkle a third of the cheese over, then another third of the asparagus, a third of the cheese, then the rest of the asparagus and cheese on top. Place an ounce of oil in a frying pan with half a very finely-chopped white 205 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS onion, toss until a very light brown, and pour over the asparagus. Set in the oven for fifteen minutes. Matzo Tafshil. (Motza Pudding). Take twelve whole matzos (small unleavened bread rolls), and soak them in water until they are soft and can be squeezed ; put them into a large pan, and mix with them, after they are beaten quite smooth, four good cooking apples, pared, cored, and chopped very fine, half a pound of good beef suet, ditto of nice wine raisins, stoned, and cut into small pieces, half a pound of cleaned and washed currants, two ounces of mixed chopped candied peel, one and a half teaspoonfuls of mixed spice, two ounces of chopped sweet almonds, with a few bitter ones, one wineglassful of good brandy or rum, a quarter pouud of moist sugar, and, lastly, six eggs which had been well beaten for twenty minutes. Grease a basin with good beef dripping, sprinkle it inside with some moist sugar, and bake it in a slow oven for four hours. Seder Rishon Charossos. ■ (First Night Seder Pudding ) Put three half-pints of good milk in a saucepan with three ounces of sugar, the thin rind of half a lemon, and a little piece of stick cinnamon. Simmer gently for ten minutes, let the milk cool, then mix with it the well- whisked yolks of five, and the whites of three eggs. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Oil a pie- dish, put a layer of Passover spongecake at the bottom, 206 HEBREW then a layer of currants and stoned raisins, repeat until the dish is nearly full, pour the custard over, and let the cake soak for twenty minutes, and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve in the same dish. Passover Sponge Cakes. Make as ordinary sponge cakes, only use potato flour in place of wheat flour. 207 XXVII.— HOLLAND Menu Vi'sch Soep Kalfspolet mit Knoddel (Fish Soup) (Veal Soup and Quenelles) Gekookte Zalm Gefarceerde Snock (Broiled Salmon) (Baked Pike and Eel Pudding) Ossenhaas Spruitjes en Komkommers (Fillet of Beef) (Brussels Sprouts and Cucumbers) Gevulde Wien (Farced Onions) Borsten van Gebraden Pluvieren (Fillets of Roasted Plovers) Bodems van Artischokken en Spergieboontjes (Artichoke Bottoms with French Beans) Gestoomde Pudding (Steamed Pudding) Peeren Ys (Pear Ice) Salade (Salad) Vruchten (Fruit) 208 HOLLAND Visch Soep. (Fish Soup). Make a good stock of fish trimmings in the usual manner ; blanch a quart of fresh peas, a handful of cher- vil, and two lettuces minced ; after boiling half an hour, strain, and pound well the peas, with a handful of sorrel minced and sweated in butter, and a quarter of a pound of breadcrumbs soaked in the fish stock ; rub the whole through a tammy cloth ; make a quenelle of codfish, seasoning with the essence of mushrooms. Cut a slice of salmon into small fillets, and sprinkle with salt ; an hour after, wash, and saute them in butter. Boil two small slices of cod from the thick end of the tail, previously salted for twenty minutes, and when it will leave the bone, break the fish into flakes, placing them in the tureen containing the quenelles moulded in teaspoons, the fillets of salmon, and thirty button-mushrooms ; pour into the puree whilst boiling, previously clarified by mixing the stock with it. Kalfspolet mit Knoddel. (Veal Soup and Potato Quenelles.) Break a large fleshy knuckle of veal into small pieces and steep in water for a few minutes, after which dry and brown in good fat. Put them in a pot with four or five quarts of water ; add a little salt, skim very carefully, bring it to the boil, and at once remove to the side of the fire and simmer gently for three or four hours ; skim it again, and add two sliced carrots, half a turnip sliced, four onions cut in halves with a clove stuck in each half, 209 o BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS a parsley root, a celery root, a bunch of fine herbs, some pepper, and more salt if necessary. When the vegetables are cooked, strain and clear the stock. Bring it to the boil and thicken with a little flour. Put in a pinch of grated nutmeg and some sorrel tossed in butter ; skim once more, and pour it into the tureen containing some blanched and chopped chervil, and three plates of small potato quenelles. Potato Quenelles. Roast in the cinders six large potatoes, washed and surrounded with paper ; peel carefully, and pound them with four ounces of fresh butter, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, six yolks of eggs, and a little double cream ; rub this through a sieve ; form into small round balls, lay on buttered saute-pan, and simmer slowly in stock for some minutes, without letting them boil. These may be eaten as a separate dish. Gekookte Zalm. (Broiled Salmon.) Cut some thin slices from the tail end of a small salmon, and rub them over with salt. Cover a gridiron with bay leaves ; put the slices of fish on them and broil over a moderately clear fire, turning them when done on one side . Pour almond sauce over the fish, and serve with potatoes. Almond Sauce. Blanch and peel four ounces of sweet almonds, put them in a mortar with a clove of garlic, and pound 210 HOLLAND together. Crumb a small piece o j bread, which soak in water, squeeze it, and mix with the pounded almonds, pour in two or three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, season with a little salt, and pound the whole together. Mix sufficient lemon juice with the mixture to make a sauce, stirring it till quite smooth. Gefarceerde Snock. (Baked Pike and Eel Pudding.) Boil a pike about two pounds in weight, and half a pound of eels. When cold skin and bone them (be careful in doing the latter), and put them twice through the mincing machine ; add four ounces of pounded coarse biscuits, half a chopped onion, the yolk of three eggs well beat in pepper and salt, and a suspicion of nutmeg. Mix all the above thoroughly, and shape in the form of a fish, and imitate the scales with a sharp knife, and place on a well-buttered dish. Pour melted butter over the fish, and strew some breadcrumbs on it. Put a couple of glasses of hock in the pan (not on the fish) with a good piece of butter, and bake from half to three-quarters of an hour. Drain the liquor and add it to a good white egg sauce, or add the following sauce to it. Egg Sauce. Boil three or four eggs for a quarter of an hour. Dip them in cold water, and roll them quickly under your hand to make the shell come off easily. Cut the yolks by themselves into little half-inch cubes, and cut the 211 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS white of one egg in the same manner. Stir first the white and then the yolk into thinnish melted butter in a tureen. Ossenhaas (Fillet of Beef.) Select a short fillet of beef, trim it, and cut it into eight slices about half an inch thick and two and a half inches square. Sprinkle these over with salt, put them into a basin with six tablespoonfuls of butter warmed and slightly oily, squeeze over a little lemon juice, and let them remain for an hour. Dip them lightly in flour, put them over a clear fire, and cook them for five or six minutes, turning them, to cook both sides. Put a pile of mashed potatoes in the centre of a dish, arrange the slices round it, pour round Dutch sauce, and serve with sprigs of parsley for garnish, along with Brussels sprouts and cucumbers mixed. Spruitjes en Komkommers. (Brussels Sprouts with Cucumbers.) Get a fresh cucumber, cut in pieces about two inches long, peel, then cut off the outside flesh, and divide into three or four slices according to the size, leaving the seeds in one piece in the middle, and trimming off all the edges neatly. Put into a saucepan two tea- spoonfuls of sugar, one ounce of butter, a little chopped shallots, and the cucumber ; toss them over a moderate fire for ten minutes without breaking, and keep them quite white. Place them neatly upon a border of mashed potatoes, and make a pyramid in the centre HOLLAND with boiled Brussels sprouts. Pour over the cucumber a good thin Dutch sauce, and over the sprouts bechamel sauce, not too thick, or else the Brussels sprouts will not show through. Dutch Sauce. Put in a saucepan four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and reduce it by boiling to about half the quantity, then take it off and add two tablespoonfuls of white stock along with the yolks of two eggs ; put it on again , and stir till thick like custard, but do not let it boil. Divide three ounces of butter into four pieces, add one to the sauce, put it on the fire and stir till melted, then take it off, add another, and repeat till all the butter has been put in. While adding the butter, the addition of a tablespoonful of white stock occasionally serves to keep the proper consistency or thickness, which should be somewhat like melted butter. Season with pepper and salt, and, if liked, a few grains of cayenne. Great care must be taken not to let this sauce boil, or it will curdle. Gevulde Wien. (Farced Onions. j Peel some good sized onions, not too large, but very firm. Cut off the tops and take out the centres, making a fairly strong cup. Cut an ox or some sheep's kidneys (the latter for preference) into dice. Season with pepper, salt, a little pinch each of nutmeg, ground coriander, and cumin. Put two or three pieces into the onion cups, adding the squeeze of a lemon. Then put 213 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS the tops on very closely ; tie with string, and stew in a well-seasoned stock for three or four hours. Strain the stock and reduce it to half glaze, add some supreme sauce and bring to the boil. Remove the string from the onions, and place them on a thick bed of mashed potatoes in an entree dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve. Supreme Sauce. Put four ounces of butter in a pan ; when boiling, add twelve peppercorns, a few parsley stalks, add also two ounces flour. Stir over the fire for ten minutes, then add a pint and a half of white chicken stock, the juice of half a lemon, a little salt, and the trimmings of white mushrooms, previously well washed and all the water well squeezed out of them. Boil till well reduced ; strain, and finish with half a pint of thick cream. Pass through a fine cloth and heat up. BORSTEN VAN GEBRADEN PLUVIEREN. (Fillets of Roasted Plovers.) Clean and then roll four birds in thin slices of bacon, and wrap in paper. Roast, and, when finished cooking, leave them till cold with the bacon round them. Cut the fillets off the breast, and stick the drumstick of the leg at the point of each. Put the trails of the birds in a mortar, pound them and season slightly. Cut as many pieces of bread, the same size and shape as the fillets, and fry them in butter till lightly browned. Mix the 214 HOLLAND beaten yolk of an egg with the trails, spread the mixture on the croutons of bread, and place them in the oven for fifteen minutes. Fix a piece of the bacon on each of the plover fillets, dip them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs then egg and breadcrumb them again, and fry them in boiling fat. When nicely browned, drain the fillets and arrange them alternately with the croutons of bread on a hot dish, and pour truffle sauce over the fillets. Serve with fried potatoes and compote of fruit similar to Cremona compote. Truffle Sauce. Break up the bones of any cooked game, and put them with the trimmings into a pan with a sliced onion, two tablespoonfuls of chopped raw ham, one glassful of sherry. Boil for five minutes, then pour in one and a half pints of good white stock or reduced partridge cullis, and keep simmering for half an hour. Strain and skim the sauce, and boil till reduced to a thickish cream. Add a good tablespoonful of minced truffles cooked whole in the sauce before being strained. BODEMS VAN ARTISCHOKKEN EN SPERGIEBOONTJES. (Artichoke Bottoms with French Beans.) The artichoke bottoms are to be first partially boiled ; then arrange them one by one in a flat stewpan, and just cover with a rich white broth, a bit of butter, the juice of two or three lemons, and a little white wine. 215 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Lay a buttered paper over them, and finish the cooking gently. Take one pint of French beans, roughly minced. Put them in boiling water with plenty of salt, and boil over a hot fire until done. Drain and put them in a stewpan with a good quarter pound of butter. Season with pepper and salt, and toss them well over the fire till the butter is all melted ; then add the juice of a couple of large lemons. Pile up in a pyramid on a dish, and arrange the artichoke bottoms round them like shields, slightly overlapping. The artichoke bottoms should be as nearly one size as possible. Serve as a separate dish. Gestoomde Pudding. (Steamed Pudding.) Thoroughly soak a quarter pound of breadcrumbs in some milk, press the moisture out till it is a soft smooth mass ; then mix in well two ounces of beef marrow and the same of chopped suet ; now add to the above two yolks of eggs, and two whole eggs, a little chopped lemon peel, three ounces of sugar, the same of dry raisins (stoned), two tablespoonfuls of chopped mixed peel. After being well mixed, pour the preparation into a buttered mould, set this in a fiat stewpan, with boiling water to half the height of the mould ; cover the stewpan. set it on a moderate fire, and steam the pudding for an hour ; the water must boil continually, and must be replaced in proportion as it evaporates. When ready for serving turn the pudding out on a dish, mask it with apricot marmalade syrup and rum sauce. 216 HOLLAND Apricot and Rum Sauce. Mix three tablespoonfuls of apricot jam or marmalade with a tablespoonful of thick sugar syrup, and a break- fastcupful of water. Pass all through a fine sieve, and boil and stir in a wineglass of rum. Peeren Ys. (Pear Ice.) Get a few good pears, quite ripe ; peel them, grate, and put them into a kitchen-basin ; add about half a pound of powder-sugar, as well as the juice of two oranges, one lemon, and a few drops essence of vanilla- Half an hour after, pass the preparation through a very clean tammy, dilute it with a little cold water, and let it freeze in the ice box. The ice being firm and smooth, cover the ice box ; ten minutes after, take the ice up with a large spoon, dish it, in a pyramid, on a folded napkin, and surround with little cakes. Using whipped cream in place of the water makes an excellent sweet. Salade. (Salad.) Skin and bone a steeped pickled herring, and cut it into small pieces ; wash and bone two anchovies, and divide them into four pieces each. Take equal quantities of cold fowl and German sausage, and cut them into small square pieces. Chop in equal quantities some pickled gherkins and beetroot, and cut in rather large pieces twice the quantity of cold boiled potatoes which are of a soapy consistency. Mix all the ingredients (excepting the an. 217 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS chovies) together with one chopped hard-boiled egg and one tablespoonful of chopped capers. Prepare a dressing with two parts olive oil and one part tarragon vinegar, and mix smoothly in with it a small quantity of French mustard, seasoning to taste with white pepper. Pour the dressing over the salad and serve. 218 XXVIII.— HUNGARY Menu Csirke-leves (Chicken Broth) Halasz-le" (Stewed Fish) Borju-siilt (Stewed Veal) Toltott Kaposzta (Dolmas of Cabbage) Bogracs Gulyas Forma Szeletek (Braised Beef) (Scalloped Salsify) Sult-galamb apro Rakkal (Pigeons with Crayfish) Salata (Salad) Kr6m-Torta Tiiros Galuska (Cream Tartlets) (Cream Quenelles) Tokai-kr6m-fagylalt (Tokay Cream Ice) Gyiimolcs (Fruit) 219 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Csirke-leves. (Chicken Broth). Chop a small onion, fry with butter, and mix with it two tablespoonfuls of flour, which fry also for two minutes, gradually diluting it with two quarts of good broth and the juice of a couple of cucumbers. Stir the soup on the fire till boiling, then remove it to the corner of the stove, and thus let it clarify, adding to it two raw chickens. As soon as they are three-fourths cooked take them out, skim the fat off the soup, pass it through a tammy, and let it boil once more. On the other hand, prepare a garnish composed of carrots, parsley, and celery roots, all of which vegetables cut, with the aid of a column tube, to sticks half an inch long ; make on both the ends on each of them a little incision in the shape of a cross ; let these vegetables blanch, drain them, place them in a stewpan with a little broth ; let the broth reduce to a glaze. At the last moment mix these vegetables in the soup, add also a few spoonfuls of cucumber cut in lozenges and blanched. Thicken the soup with sour cream mixed with three yolks of eggs and finish it with a spoonful of chopped green fennel. Halasz-le. (Stewed Fish). Choose about a pound and a half of small fish, such as tench, eels, flounders, or slips. Fillet the fish ; put these aside, and place the whole of the trimmings — heads, skins, bones, fins, etc.— into a stewpan, adding for each 220 HUNGARY pound weight one good-sized sliced onion, three table- spoonfuls of shred parsley, a tablespoonful of strips of parsley root about an inch long, a dessertspoonful of horseradish shavings, twelve peppercorns, a good tea- spoonful of salt, and a pinch of paprica. Cover with cold water, bring slowly to the boil, skim, then simmer slowly for an hour, and strain. Then put on the fire again and reduce to half the quantity. Into this hot broth (using another stewpan for the operation) put the fillets with six freshly cut bunches of parsley (which should be previously blanched in scalded water for three minutes) and simmer gently for about ten minutes until the fillets are tender. A spoon, instead of a fish knife, as well as the fork, are necessary to eat this dish comfortably. Borju-sult. (Stewed Veal). Cut up in squares a pound of veal meat taken from the side of the knuckle, and add to this meat an equal quantity of loin of pork. Cut an onion into dice, put it into a flat stewpan with lard, add half a bay-leaf, sprinkle over paprica and fry it a little, then add the meats ; season, fry the meats for seven or eight minutes, cover the stewpan, draw it over a moderate fire, and stew the meats with warm ashes on the lid, stirring from time to time. When done, baste them simply with two tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, or some glaze ; dish them up in a border of plain boiled rice. 221 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Toltott Kaposzta. (Dolmas of Cabbage). Strip off the leaves of a white cabbage, wash them thoroughly, put them into a saucepan of salted water, and boil for twenty-five minutes. Take them out, plunge into cold water, and afterwards dry them. In the meantime prepare one and a quarter pounds of force- meat, using an equal quantity of finely chopped fat pork and lean veal, two eggs, a small chopped onion, a breakfastcupful of boiled rice, a good dash of paprica, pepper and salt, three tablespoonfuls of minced mush- rooms, and a little minced parsley. Divide this into pieces the size of a walnut, wrap them up separately in pieces of the leaves, put them close together in a pan, sprinkle well with salt, pour over a little melted butter, and add broth and buttermilk in equal quantities to half their height. Cover them over and cook until the liquor is reduced to a glaze, then remove the pan to the side ; have ready ten ounces of rice boiled in stock and finished with butter and grated Parmesan cheese. Cover the bottom and sides of a timbale mould with tender large leaves of the cabbage, without any of their hard parts, spread a layer of rice one inch thick over the bottom leaves ; mask this with tomato sauce ; arrange ten slightly flattened dolmas on top, grate over a little Parmesan cheese, and continue in this way until all are used up, by which time the mould should be full. Cover over with a cabbage leaf, then with thin slices of fat bacon ; put the mould in a moderate oven, and cook for an hour. Drain off the fat, remove bacon and cabbage leaf, turn the timbale on to a hot dish, glaze the leaves 222 HUNGARY with a paste brush, and serve at once. These dolmas may be cooked in a stewpan, and garnished with bacon round the dish on which they are piled. Bogracs Gulyas. (Braised Beef.) Cut up into middling-sized squares the head and the end (thin) of a fillet of beef, about two pounds. Chop up an onion, which fry in a stewpan with butter, without allowing it to take colour, and add to it the meat in squares ; fry them for ten or twelve minutes ; season with salt and a pinch of paprica ; then remove the stewpan back on a moderate fire, with hot ashes on its lid. Three-quarters of an hour later — that is, when the meat has evaporated its moisture — pour over a little gravy, and continue cooking it for an hour and a half ; sprinkle over the stew another pinch of paprica, baste it with two tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and cook it for ten minutes longer. Then add to it a garnish of potatoes in small dice, blanched previously in water ; roll them in the sauce, and five minutes later dish up. Forma Szeletek. (Scalloped Salsify.) Scrape a few roots of salsify and cut them into lengths, throwing them out of hand into a basin of vinegar and water to preserve their whiteness. Afterwards boil them in salted water till tender. Next drain the salsify ; thicken sufficient of their liquor with flour and butter to make the sauce ; season to taste, and stir it over the fire until boiling, then remove it to the side. Beat 223 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS the yolk of an egg with half a teacupful of cream, strain it, and stir it into the sauce, which must not be allowed to boil again or it will curdle. Put the pieces of salsify into the sauce and toss them about. Add a few drops of anchovy essence. Fill some scallop shells with the salsify and sauce, squeeze in each a few drops of lemon juice, and strew some finely grated breadcrumbs over. Put them in the oven until browned, then place them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or a fancy-edged dish paper ; garnish with parsley and serve. Sult-galamb apro Rakkal. (Pigeons with Crayfish.) Take out the bones of four young pigeons ; soak in broth, or milk, a large piece of breadcrumb (ten ounces) ; press it to extract its moisture, and bruise it with a spoon in a stewpan ; add to it a piece of butter, a few yolks of eggs, and the cooked livers of the pigeons, cut up in small dice ; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. With this farce stuff the pigeons ; sew, truss, and put them into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, a few trimmings of ham, their giblets, four small onions, and a garnished bunch. Set the stewpan on a good fire, fry the pigeons, tossing them, and as soon as of a light colour sprinkle over a pinch of flour, and moisten to height with broth and white wine, half of each ; let the stock boil, add to it a few trimmings of ham ; five or six minutes after, cover the stewpan, 224 HUNGARY draw it on a moderate fire, and thus finish cooking the pigeons. When ready to serve, drain them, remove the string, pass the sauce through a sieve into another stewpan, reduce it for two minutes, thicken it with three yolks of eggs, then finish it with some crayfish cullis, and add two dozen cooked crayfish tails picked and trimmed. Dish the pigeons up on a hot dish, mask with sauce, and surround with garnish, including potatoes a la noisette. Cullis of Crayfish or Lobsters. Take some middling sized crayfish, put them over the fire, seasoned with salt, pepper, and sweet herbs, and onions cut in slices ; being done, take them out, pick them, and keep the tails after they are scaled ; pound the rest together with the shells in a mortar (the more they are pounded the finer your cullis will be) . Take a bit of veal the bigness of your fist, with a small bit of ham and an onion cut in four and put it to sweat very gently ; moisten it with broth, put in it some cloves, sweet basil in branches, some mushrooms, with a lemon pared and cut into slices ; being done, skim off the fat well ; let it be of a good taste, then take out your meat with a skimmer, and go on thickening it with a little stock cullis, then put in your crayfish and strain it off ; being strained, keep it to make use of with all sorts of first courses. For lobster cullis substitute lobsters for the crayfish. 225 p BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Salata. (Salad.) Wash and well dry some lettuces, cut them into shreds, and put them in a salad bowl, with some slices of beet- root on the top. Beat up the yolks of two raw eggs with a little chopped onion, salt, and mustard ; when well beaten, add three tablespoonfuls of oil and one tablespoonful of vinegar, a little at a time, beating well. Pour this dressing over the lettuces, and serve at once. Krem-torta. (Cream Tartlets.) Butter a dozen tartlet moulds, line them with some short paste, fill with apple marmalade, and bake them in a moderate oven. Take them out when done, mask with some apricot marmalade, and over that put some well-whipped vanilla cream. With a knife or spatula smooth this over, and make it into a pyramidical shape. Cream of Vanilla. This is made the same as curacoa, only substituting 12 drops of oil of vanilla in place of the other essences. Turos Galuska. (Cream Quenelles.) Half a pint of water, half a pound of flour, one quarter pound of butter, a pinch of sugar and salt. Boil the water, sugar, and butter, sift the flour in gradually, and cook, stirring quickly and regularly. Then stir in six whole eggs, one at a time, and when cooked put the paste in a piping bag, and cut off slices about the thickness of half-a-crown and the size of a 226 HUNGARY shilling, and pop into boiling sweetened milk, and boil till they float, after which arrange on a dish and keep hot. You will then beat up and add three yolks of eggs, a teaspoonful of corn-flour, a little castor sugar and maraschino liqueur, all of which put into and cook carefully in the milk, stirring all the time till it is as smooth as a cream sauce. Pour over the quenelles and serve hot. Maraschino. Oil of bitter almonds, 3 minims ; essence of vanilla, 12 minims ; jasmine extract, 24 minims ; raspberry essence, 2 minims ; oil of neroli, 2 minims ; oil of lemon, 3 minims ; spirits of nitrous ether, 24 minims ; spirit, 62 over proof, 24 ounces ; sugar, 1 pound 9 J ounces ; rose water, 2 ounces; distilled water, n ounces. Mix the oils, rose water, etc., with the spirit ; dissolve the sugar in the distilled water by bringing to boiling point, so as to remove scum. When cold, add to spirits, and filter. Tokai-krem-fagylalt. (Tokay Cream Ice.) Put one quarter-pound of sugar into a pan, place it on the Are and keep stirring until it begins to boil, then remove it and put it in the oven to bake. Take it out when done, add a stick of cinnamon bruised, and the thin rind of a lemon. Replace it in the oven, and let it remain for a few minutes. Then pour half a pint of water into a basin containing ten yolks of eggs, one pound of castor sugar, and one and a half pints of 227 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS milk ; mix these well together and pour into the pan on the fire, stir until it thickens, and then pass through a fine sieve into a bowl or basin. Add one wineglassful of Tokay, place the basin on the ice to freeze the con- tents, and mix in, just before it is completed, one break- fastcupful of well-whipped cream, three ounces of sliced pistachios, and the same quantity of finely-minced orange peel. When it has frozen sufficiently it is ready to be served. Vienna Rolls. Dissolve one teacupful of German yeast in one quart of lukewarm milk, stir in one pound of fine flour, and set to sponge. Three hours afterwards add one table- spoonful each of salt and moist sugar, and make all up into a stiff dough. Let this rise for four hours, then work it well on a table or board, and roll out to about an eighth of an inch in thickness, then cut it into strips about six inches in width; these must be cut again into long triangles, not very wide at the base. Roll these pieces up, commencing at the base or bottom, and the top of the triangle will come in the centre of the roll. Roll them a little with the hands, then put them into a crescent shape on to a baking-sheet, and brush over with melted lard or water ; let them rise on the sheets for half an hour, and then bake for about ten minutes, or until lightly coloured. 228 INDIA XXIX.- BENGAL (Hindu) Menu Ghee Mussoor Dal (Clarified Butter) (Lentils) Gheevhat (Spiced Rice) Katol (Curried Turbot) Bende Kavi Saru (Curried Lady's Fingers) Begoon Bhahja (Fried Egg Plant) Khiman (Minced Meats) Shandesh (Milk Balls) Rohit (Fried Salmon) Jhal Chai (French Beans) Dal Pithas (Lentil Croquettes) Kabutar Doopiajas (Stewed Pheasants) Cajure (Sweet Wheaten Cakes) Halwa Sond (Milk Pudding) 229 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Mussoor Dal. (Fried Red Lentils.) Wash and pick half a pound of red lentils ; when thoroughly dry, roast the same as you would coffee beans. Now put into a pan one ounce of tamarinds, three teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one teaspoonful of ground large red chillies, halt a teaspoonful of turmeric- half a teaspoonful of ground green ginger, a quarter teaspoonful of ground garlic, and a half teaspoonful of salt, the roasted lentils, and sufficient water to stand two inches above the mixture. Give it a good stir, then place it on the fire till the lentils are all dis- solved, being careful not to disturb the contents till they are cooked into a soft mass. Now take and whip the mass with a wire whisker (in lieu of a churn) till quite light, removing the tamarind seeds during the process. Cut a pound of onions in slices, not too thin, and fry till a reddish brown in two ounces of boiling ghee. Heat six ounces of ghee in a pan ; chop up the onions, which, along with the lentils, put into the ghee. Place the pan on the fire and stir well, and simmer at the side of the fire for twenty minutes. Eat with vegetables, fish, and meats. Gheevhat. (Spiced Rice). Slice two onions very fine and fry in four ounces of ghee till dark brown, but not charred, then put in four cloves, six cardamoms, a teaspoonful of coriander, half a teaspoonful of caraway, and a pounded red chilli, and fry for two or three minutes. Put this into 230 BENGAL (Hindu) a pan with a pound of well-washed rice and thirty ounces of water and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Boil till all the moisture has evaporated, and place at the side of the fire to dry. Eat with fish, vegetables, and meats. Katol. (Curried Turbot.) Cut two pounds of turbot into two-inch squares, free of skin and bones. Mix a teaspoonful each of ground turmeric, coriander, and cumin, and brown in boiling ghee. Pour in one teacupful of boiling water and half a teaspoonful of salt, and boil for five minutes ; add a stick of cinnamon, and one point of garlic, and boil for other two minutes. Eat with plain boiled or spiced rice, lentils, and chutnies. Rohit (Fried Salmon.) Cut two pounds of salmon into two-inch squares, free of skin and bones. Smear the pieces with a mixture composed of a teaspoonful each of ground coriander and ground onions, half a teaspoonful red chillies, and one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt. Let stand for an hour. Cut three large onions into very fine slices, and fry a rich brown in six ounces of boiling ghee ; place them to the one side and fry the pieces of salmon ; just before finishing add the fried onions. Eat with bread, rice, and fish chutnies. 231 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Bende Kavi Saru. (Curried Lady's Fingers.) Wash twenty-four lady's fingers, rub the skin with a rough cloth to remove all bristles, cut in inch lengths, wash a second time in water, and dry them. In a pan fry four or five large sliced green chillies and one red chilli in boiling ghee, a few sliced onions, one point of crushed garlic, a pinch of mustard seeds, and a pinch of caraway seeds. Drain and fry your pieces of lady's fingers in the above, and add a cup of cocoanut milk and two of curds ; cover very carefully, and allow to simmer till the vegetables are soft and tender. Add salt to taste just before dishing. Eat with lentils, rice, ghee, and pickled cucumbers. Jhal Chai. (French Beans.) Fry a couple of sliced onions in two ounces of mustard oil till a nice brown, and remove to the one side, then fry one teaspoonful of red ground chillies, a teaspoonful of coriander, the same quantities of ground turmeric and ground onions. Now put in a pound of French beans broken in two and the strings carefully removed, also a teaspoonful of salt, three ounces ghee, and a cupful of water. Simmer very gently till the beans are cooked. Eat with dal pittas, ghee, lentils, rice, and other veget- ables. Goli (Cauliflower.) Is cooked the same way, only breaking the flower into small branches. 232 BENGAL (Hindu) Begoon Bhahta. (Egg Plant.) Wash and slice two pounds of the plant into pieces rather less than a quarter of an inch thick. Wipe them with a dry cloth and fry in two ounces of boiling mustard oil, first having steeped them for an hour in a teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon, ground coriander, red chillies, a pinch of saffron, and salt to taste. Eat with dal, rice, and chutnies. Dal Pithas. (Lentil Croquettes.) Fry six sliced onions in boiling mustard oil, lay on the one side, and fry two teaspoonfuls of ground onions, half a teaspoonful ground red chillies, half a teaspoonful of ground ginger, half that quantity of ground garlic, a teaspoonful of coriander seeds, a quarter of a tea- spoonful of aniseed. Put to the one side the fried condiments, &c. Having washed a quarter-pound of lentils, steep them for four hours, dry them thoroughly, and fry in the mustard oil, and put in a pot with the fried condiments, with just sufficient water to cover the ingredients, adding a very small teaspoonful of salt. Simmer very slowly for about half-an-hour, or until a soft mass. (If to be eaten with another dish the sliced fried onions should be strewn over the top.) Roll out rather thinly a piece of dough much the same as puff paste, and cut out rounds with a cutter about five inches in diameter. Place a spoonful of the above mixture when cold in the centre of each round, wet the *33 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS edges, fold over, and fry in boiling mustard oil or ghee. They are shaped like a half-moon. Eat with rice, chutnies, and other vegetables. Khiman. (Minced Meat.) Bring to the boil two ounces of ghee, in which fry a large onion finely mmced ; now put in two pounds of kid which has been passed through a fine mincer, and fry till well browned, stirring all the time ; then add four green chillies and an inch of green ginger, both thinly sliced a ground red chilli, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a large cupful of water. Stew very gently for an hour, then mix a teaspoonful of flour with a little water, and stir it into the mince along with a large tablespoonful of tamarind juice. For the British table, beef, mutton, lamb, or veal may be cooked the same way, the only seasonings, however, being salt, pepper, and onion. In Scotland this dish is known as " minced collops." Kabutar Doopiajas. (Stewed Pheasants.) Cut a plump young pheasant into eight pieces. Fry in three ounces of boiling mustard oil four large onions sliced very thin, and when of a reddish yellow place to one side. Then fry in the same oil four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one teaspoonful of turmeric, and one teaspoonful of red chillies. When browned, fry the pieces of pheasants, and pour in two tablespoonfuls of 234 BENGAL (Hindu) water, the fried onions and condiments, and one tea- spoonful of salt. Eat with bread, or rice and chutnies. Shandesh. (Milk Balls.) Bring to blood heat three pints of milk, put in a tablespoonful of whey or a tablespoonful of essence of rennet, and stand till all the milk has solidified. Now place in a towel and hang up till nothing but the dry curd is left. Mix this with a little rice flour, and make into round balls about the size of a tennis ball. Boil sugar and water till nearly candy high, i.e., till it is quite sticky, remove from the fire, and when lukewarm put in the curd balls, and stand for a day. Strain, dish, and eat with cream (milk reduced to quarter its weight by boiling). Cajure. (Sweet Wheaten Cakes.) Mix well one and three-quarter ounces of well-washed roughly-ground wheat, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a pound of sugar, and a pound and three-quarters of milk. Now add sufficient flour to make a good dough - Knead well and lay to the one side for four hours, after which take pieces and make into small cakes about the size of a five shilling piece, and fry in boiling ghee. Halwa Sond. (Milk Pudding). Put a quarter-pound each of brown sugar, butter, and milk in a pot, and mix well together, and place on the fire till bubbles come out, then put it on a dish, pour a 235 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS little ghee or butter over, and sprinkle sliced almonds on top. It should be a soft semi-solid mass. Green Mango Chutney. Peel a couple of large green mangoes, stone and cut in pieces, and steep in cold water for an hour. Pound the flesh to a smooth pulp, and mix in two tablespoonfuls of sugar, then add a quarter teaspoonful of ground red chillies, half a teaspoonful of ground mint, and the same quantity each of ground green ginger and salt. Mix thoroughly. Potato Chutney. Slice a large onion very finely, also two green chillies. Mix with the juice of a fresh lime a tablespoonful of milk curd, a ground red chilli, and salt to taste. Meanwhile boil eight potatoes, previously cleaned and skinned, mince them rather finely, and mix in the onions, chillies, and lime juice. Fish Chutney. Mix onions, chillies, and lime juice as in potato chut- ney. Roast a quarter-of-a-pound of the small dried fish known as " Bombay ducks," then roughly pound ; stir in half a dessert-spoonful of mustard oil, and add the onions, chillies, and lime juice, and just a suspicion of garlic in place of the milk curd. 236 BENGAL (Hindu) Egg Plant Chutney. Roast a couple of good large egg plants, remove the seeds, and pound the flesh to a smooth paste with a teaspoonful each of mustard oil and salt, and then mix with onions, red chillies, curd, and lime juice, as given in potato chutney, only using two limes instead of one. Tamarind Chutney. Stone two pounds of ripe tamarinds and put in a glazed pot with two ounces each of ground red chillies, garlic, and green ginger, one ounce of ground cinnamon, four ounces of cleaned currants, four ounces of sultana raisins, two ounces salt, one pound of soft sugar, and one pint of vinegar. If not enough of the latter to cover all the ingredients, add more. Put on a good fire to stew fairly quick. Care must be taken to stir continuously the contents of the pan till the mixture is thick. Remove from the fire, and when cold it can be bottled for future use. 237 XXX.— BENGAL (Mussulman) Menu Hilsa Cofta (Curried Herring Balls) Chingri Doopiajas (Prawn Curry) Murgi Pulau (Pillau of Chicken) Kabutar Doopiajas (Stewed Pheasant) Bhara Hussanee (Grilled Fillets of Lamb) Gora Quorma (Curried Beef) Puras no Malahi Zurda Sheer Mhall (Cream Croquettes) (Egg Sweet) (Honey Cake) Dhai (Milk Curd) Hulluah (Wheat Milk Tablet) 238 BENGAL (Mussulman) Hilsa Cofta. (Curried Herring Balls.) Pound the flesh of one pound of herrings to a pulp, mix with it half a teaspoonful of salt, white pepper and ground coriander, a pinch of cloves, a teaspoonful of ground onions, and a tablespoonful of tamarind juice. Mix well and make up into balls rather larger than a walnut. Bring to the boil four ounces of mustard oil, and fry the following for three minutes : — Half an ounce of ground onions, a tablespoonful of ground green chillies, quarter teaspoonful of pepper, half that quantity of garlic, half a dessert-spoonful of fine herbs, and when browned put in the balls and fry them on all sides. Add a little salt and a small cupful of water, and simmer slowly till cooked. Eat with fish chutney and rice. Herrings pickled in tamarind juice is very similar to hilsa. Chingri Doopiajas. (Prawn Curry.) Wash a dozen large prawns, parboil, remove from the shell, and lay to the one side. Then fry in ghee four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one teaspoonful of ground turmeric, and one teaspoonful of ground large red chillies. When brown, put in the prawns and brown. Now add a cupful of water and the fried onions roughly chopped, and one teaspoonful of salt. Close the pot and stew till the prawns are cooked. Eat with rice or bread and fish chutney. 239 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Murgi Pulau. (Pillau of Chicken.) Clean a good fat chicken. Put it in a pot with two large cupfuls of water, a large onion cut in four, a small piece of ginger, and salt to taste. Boil till tender, but not too soft. Fry in four ounces of ghee twelve onions finely sliced till they are a nice brown, taking care not to char. Remove the onions and fry in three ounces of butter half a pound of well-washed rice. When the rice has taken up all the butter, add four cloves, four car- damoms, four sticks of cinnamon, two coriander leaves, two blades of mace, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Give it all a good stir, and pour over the stock the fowl was boiled in, along with a cupful of milk which has been boiled to half its bulk ; add one red and three green chillies sliced, and a handful of sultana raisins. Cover the pot carefully, and stew very slowly on a gentle fire (which ought to be allowed to go down) till ail the moisture is nearly absorbed, being careful to give the mixture a stir now and again to keep it from charring. Cut the chicken into eight pieces and fry in oil till a nice brown, place on a dish and cover with rice, first removing the coriander leaves, the mace, and as much of the cinnamon as possible ; heat the fried onions and strew on the top. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters. Bhara Hussanee. (Grilled Pickled Lamb.) Take two pounds of lamb and cut into fillets about an inch square. Thread six of these alternatively with 240 BENGAL (Mussulman) a slice of green ginger and onions on thin pieces of bamboo or ordinary skewers. Prepare the rest of the meat the same way till all is used. Boil six ounces of ghee, and brown in this one tea- spoonful of turmeric, half a teaspoonful of green ginger, half a teaspoonful of caraway, four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, and half a teaspoonful of ground red chillies. Then brown the fillets and pour in half a cupful of curd, the same quantity of water, and one ounce of salt. Bring to the boil, and simmer gently at side of fire till meat is tender. Eat with rice and chutnies and luchi bhaja. Luchi Bhaja. (Wheaten Flour Cakes.) Make a dough of flour, water and ghee ; knead well. Form into small balls, flatten out with the hands, and fry in ghee. Eat when cold with meats. Gora Quorma. (Curried Beef.) Fry in two ounces of mustard oil four onions finely sliced. When brown lay to the one side, and fry for two minutes in the oil a teaspoonful each of ground turmeric, coriander, and cumin, half a teaspoonful each of cinnamon, caraway, and cloves, a ground red chillie, a teaspoonful of salt, a point of garlic; and then fry two pounds of beef cut into inch squares and about half-an-inch thick. Put all the above in a pot with a large cup of sweet milk curd, the same of water, two bay leaves, two lemon grass leaves, three sliced green chillies, the juice of a 241 Q BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS lemon, and, if need be, a little more salt. Stir all the ingredients and cover the pan very closely and stew very gently on a slow fire for about an hour, or till the meat is tender, then stir in two tablespoonfuls of ghee. Remove the bay and lemon leaves, and eat with rice, luchi bhaja, and all kinds of chutnies. Kabutar Doopiajas. (Curried Pheasants.) Proceed exactly in the same way as in Hindu recipe. Puras No Malahi. (Cream Croquettes.) Take two pounds six ounces of good milk, and reduce to half its bulk by boiling ; set to the one side to get cold. Mix with the yolks of four eggs 7 dwt. 12 grains of ground small cardamines and four ounces of sugar, and beat till pretty stiff, then beat in the cold milk and make into small round cakes, and fry in plenty of boiling ghee. Zurda. (Egg Sweet.) Take of well-switched eggs half a dozen, of sugar quarter of a pound, ghee half a pound, blanched and split almonds two ounces, cinnamon in small pieces one and a half grains, suffron one grain, and rose-water one and a half ounces. Fry the cinnamon and almonds in the ghee. Boil the sugar to a very strong syrup. Now add the ghee, almonds, and cinnamon, and bring to the boil. Remove the pot from the fire, stir in the saffron and well-beaten 242 BENGAL (Mussulman) eggs, whipping all the time. When practically cold stir in the rose-water. Sheer Mhall. (Honey and Almond Cake.) Mix one pound of flour with one pound of soojee (the thick liquid of rough-ground wheat soaked in water for several hours squeezed through muslin) and two pounds of milk ; knead well into a good dough. Melt down J of an ounce of yeast in a little milk saved from the two pounds. Mix this with the dough along with one ounce of ghee and a little salt. Put it in a warm place to rise for two hours. Form the dough into shapes, place on a baking iron, and set to rise for another two hours, then smear on the top some good honey, sprinkle with roughly chopped cleaned almonds, and bake in a good oven. Dhai. (Milk Curd.) Put four pounds of good milk on to boil till it is reduced to one pound. When nearly cold beat it together so that the cream and milk are well mixed. Hulluah. (Wheat Milk Sweet). Wash one and a half pounds of roughly ground wheat, and steep in three pounds of water for twelve hours. When quite soft strain through fine muslin, pressing all the good out. In the liquid stir in one and a half pounds of sugar ; stir till it thickens with the boiling. Now put in six cardamines, six sticks of cinnamon, and a good 243 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS pinch of saffron into eight ounces of boiling ghee and fry for three minutes, and stir it into the thickened sugar along with some pistachio nuts and sultana raisins. Place on the fire, and keep stirring till it again thickens. Pour into an oiled deep dish, and cut into strips about an inch broad. 244 XXXI.— BOMBAY (Brahmin) Menu Chutnies (Bean, Cocoanut, Onion, Pomegranate, Raddish) Kadhi Dal Ghee (Bean and Buttermilk Soup) (Lentil Soup) (Clarified Butter) Batatachi Bhaji Gujarachi Bhaji Ambat Chorka (Curried Potatoes) (Curried Carrots) (Curried Sorrel) Bhhajiya. (Curried Cakes) Bhat Dal (Rice) (Lentils) Shrikhand Basfludi (Milk Curd and Fruit) (Spiced Milk) Jalebi Keshri Bhat (Sweet Macaroni) (Sweet Rice) Bhat ne Dahi (Rice and Curd) 245 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Bean Chutney. Soak four ounces white beans overnight, drain and pound to a paste. Bring two ounces oil to the boil and fry a quarter teaspoonful of mustard seeds ; when these are crackling, remove from the fire at once ; put them in the bean flour along with a teacupful of curds, a tablespoonful tamarind juice, one red and three green chillies finely sliced, one ounce of pistachio nuts, a tea- spoonful of brown sugar, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Cook for three or four minutes, and serve when cold. Onion Chutney. Roughly grate a pound of onions, and add to them two cups of milk curds, the juice of a lemon, half a tea- spoonful of pounded mustard seeds, a teaspoonful of brown sugar, and half a teaspoonful of salt ; mix well. It should be a moist, soft mass. Radish Chutney. Clean and finely shred a pound of white radish roots, in which mix a cupful of milk curds, a half teaspoonful each of ground mustard seeds, cumin seeds, coriander seeds, brown sugar, and salt. It should be soft and moist. Cocoanut Chutney. Grate half^ a cocoanut roughly, and mix with it a teaspoonful of sugar and sufficient curds to make all into a soft mass. 246 BOMBAY (Brahmin) Pomegranate Chutney. Remove the seeds to weigh about a pound, and mix them with four ounces of milk curds, one teaspoonful brown sugar, and a good pinch of white pepper. Kadhi. (Bean and Buttermilk Soup). Take one pound of gram flour (bean or white pea flour will do), which put in a pot with two pounds of good buttermilk, a teaspoonful of turmeric, and same quantity of salt. Boil till the whole is of the consistency of very thin porridge. Dal. (Lentil Soup). Wash two pounds of lentils and put in a pot with same weight of water ; add a tablespoonful of curry powder, and a large teaspoonful of salt. Cook till the whole mass is like very thin porridge. Curry Powder. One ounce turmeric, one ounce coriander seeds, one ounce cumin seeds, half ounce yellow mustard seeds, quarter ounce each of poppy seeds and aniseed, two ounces of cardamines, half ounce of ^garlic, one ounce of green ginger, one ounce of large green chillies, and half an ounce of large red chillies. Put the pot in a cool oven till all the ingredients are dry, then pound till all will go through a fine sieve. 247 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Batatachi Bhaji, (Curried Potatoes,) Peel two pounds of potatoes and cut them into half- inch pieces, boil in water in which you have put a tea- spoonful of mustard seed, a shred red chilli, and a large teaspoonful of salt. When the potatoes are soft, drain, and pass through a sieve. Put in a tablespoonful of white pease flour, and a little of the water in which the potatoes were boiled. Bring all to the boil, stirring all the time so that the potatoes and flour amalgamate. Now boil two ounces of oil, in which fry quarter tea- spoonful of mustard seeds, and when they are crackling and dancing, be sure that you remove the pan from the fire at once. Pour this into the potato mixture, and stir well over the fire so that it is hot. The whole should be the consistency of soft porridge. Gujarachi Bhaji. (Carrots.) Take two pounds of carrots and treat them the same way as the potatoes, with the addition of half a tea- spoonful each of pounded coriander and cumin seeds. Ambat Chorka. (Curried Sorrel.) Wash and shake slightly a pound of sorrel leaves. Put them in a pot with little or no water, a sliced red chilli, two sliced green ones, half a teaspoonful each of ground coriander, cumin, and turmeric, and a teaspoonful of salt; and when the leaves are tender, drain and put through a sieve, then add the mustard seeds cooked as in potato curry. 248 BOMBAY (Brahmin) Bhhajiya. (Curried Cakes of Gram Flour.) Make a thickish liquid paste of quarter pound gram flour with milk, then add two ounces ghee, one-eighth ounce each of assafcetida, coriander, cardamom, cumin seed, ground pepper, and chillies, and a quarter-ounce of salt. After mixing them well and making a thick liquid paste, with a spoon drop small quantities into plenty of boiling ghee, and when well browned lift out with an open skimmer. They should be in lumps about the size of walnuts. Dal. (Lentils.) Wash and clean two pounds of lentils ; put in pot with water, with a teaspoonful of turmeric, and same quantity of salt, or more if required. Cook until the whole is in a semi-solid state. Bhat. (Rice.) Clean one pound rice in two waters. Put it in a pot with furiously boiling water — the water to be standing two inches over top of rice. Remove to the side of fire to boil slowly till all water evaporated and rice dry. Shrikhand. (Milk Curd and Fruit.) Put three pounds of sweet milk curd in a muslin bag and hang up to drain overnight, then mix in three pounds of sugar, and pass all through a very fine sieve. Take twenty grains pounded saffron, mix well with four ounces milk, which add to the curds and sugar 249 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS along with a tablespoonful each of raisins, peeled almonds and pistachios, and make all into one mass. It should be a semi-solid mass, and is eaten with bread as a separate dish. Basundi. (Spiced Milk.) Put three pounds of milk and three pounds of sugar in a pan, and reduce to nearly half its volume. When cold, stir in twenty grains powdered saffron and a small pinch of nutmeg, which have been well mixed in four ounces of good milk. This is served in small bowls as a drink, or eaten with soft bread dipped into it. Jalebi. (Sweet Macaroni.) First of all prepare rawa as follows : — Wheat is washed and laid on a cloth for four or five hours to dry. Then it is ground. Then the coarse flour produced is rubbed over a cloth, through which the finer material passes. The residue is shaken on a basket. The husks and colouring matter separate, and the granules which remain are known as rawa. One pound rawa, two ounces ghee, one and three- quarter ounces of rice powder, and one and a quarter ounce of lentil powder, are mixed with water and milk so as to form a thin liquid, and the juice of one or two lemons (according to size) added. The whole is mixed in the evening and allowed to stand overnight. In the morning two pounds of sugar with enough water to form a sticky liquid is boiled. This solution is called pak. 250 BOMBAY (Brahmin) The preparation which has stood overnight is then rubbed in a pot until it forms a paste so adhesive that the pot may be lifted by taking hold of the contents. It has now become too thick to pour, so milk must be added and whipped till it froths. Then a kettle containing one pound of ghee is put on a slow fire ; when this boils, the paste is poured into it from a cocoanut shell with a hole as large as a big pea in it, or is squeezed through an ice piping cloth. In pouring the paste the hand is carried round and round in such a way that the paste forms circular masses of coils, which at once solidify in the boiling ghee. These masses are then placed in the hot pak, and after a little time removed on to a sieve or strips of wood and allowed to drip. Green Mango Jelly. Made the same as guava jelly, only the mangoes have to be steeped for thirty-six hours, and no lime juice is added to the jelly. Eat with parentha. Mango Cheese. Made the same as guava jelly, omitting the lime juice. Apricot Marmalade. Stone and skin the fruit. Scald it in an earthenware jar, then pound to a paste. Take equal weight of pulp and soft sugar, and boil for fifteen minutes, stirring 2 5 I BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS all the time and being careful to remove all scum. Put into pots whilst hot, and tie down when cold. Plum Marmalade. All kinds of plums may be preserved as above. Bhat ne Dahi (Rice and Curd). Proceed as in " Bhat " : mix half a teaspoonful of ground saffron in two cups of curds, and stir into the 252 XXXII.— BOMBAY (Mussulman) Menu Rahu Mooloo Bunihui Machli Boi Cutlse (Stewed Carp) (Steamed Salmon^ (Shrimp Croquettes) Chow Chow Pullao Seik Kawab Kichri (Chicken Pillau) (Grilled Pickled Lamb) (Curried Mutton) Basundi ne Puri Sola Bundee (Cream and Pancakes) (Vermicelli Pudding) (Sweet Balls) Mo-Rubba (Guava Preserve) Hulua (Spiced Wheaten Sweet) Phul (Fresh Fruits) 253 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Ra.hu Mooloo. (Stewed Carp.) Cut two pounds of carp free of skin and bones into two-inch pieces ; rub them very thoroughly with a mixture of salt, green ginger, and red chillies (of each a spoonful), and put to the one side for an hour; then dry them and fry in boiling ghee till cooked, and put to the one side till cold. Fry in four ounces of boiling ghee three finely sliced onions to a light brown colour ; place to the one side and fry in the same ghee a chopped green chilli, a teaspoonful of coriander, turmeric, and aniseed (of each a teaspoonful), a little white pepper, and a teaspoonful of diluted cocoanut milk. Stir over the fire till dry ; then add the fried onions, a cupful of good cocoanut milk, the juice of a lemon, and more salt if necessary. Pour the hot sauce over the cold fish, and serve with puri, chapatee, chutnies, etc. Bunihui Machli. (Steamed Salmon.) Rub two pounds fillet of salmon with a teaspoonful each of ground salt, coriander, and chillies. Fry in six ounces of ghee six onions sliced very thin (they must be of a light brown) . Then put in the fish. Close very tight so that no air can get in. Put the pan in a pot of water (bain marie) which comes half way up the pan, and boil gently tor half an hour. The water should boil very slowly. Eat with chapatee (new bread) and chutnies. This is the nearest approach to the native fish rowe or roa. 254 BOMBAY (Mussulman) Chapatee. (Pulled Bread.) Make a good dough of flour and water, knead it well, after which take it in the hands and pull it for a con- siderable time ; then take a piece rather less than a tennis ball, and with the hands clap it till it is about an eighth of an inch thick, and bake on an iron plate, turning when one side is done. Boi Cutlse. (Shrimp Croquettes.) Take one pound of shrimps, • wash thoroughly, and boil with salt, a sliced red chilli, a piece of green ginger, half ounce coriander seeds, and a point of garlic. When cooked remove the shells, etc., and roughly chop the meat. Fry in three ounces ghee two finely sliced onions till browned, but not charred ; put to the one side ; and fry one teaspoonful of ground coriander, half a tea- spoonful of ground aniseed, and half a teaspoonful of ground cumin seeds ; now put in the chopped shrimps, with rather less than half a teaspoonful of salt, and fry lightly ; mix onions (chopped very fine), condiments, and shrimps, and put on a dish till cold. Prepare a good puff paste, roll out thin, and cut into rounds about the size of a small saucer. Take as much of the shrimp mixture as would make a walnut, and place in the middle of one of the rounds of pastry ; wet the edges and put another on the top, and press closely. Fry in boiling ghee, and eat with pulled bread. Or the round of paste may be cut larger and the 255 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS mixture placed in the centre. After wetting the edges, fold over, press the edges closely, and fry. Chow Chow Pullao. (Chicken Piliau.) Cut a chicken into eight pieces, and fry in a pan in which you have first browned, in boiling ghee, a large onion cut in dice. Put it in a pot along with a cupful of curds, a cupful of water, a teaspoonful each of ground coriander and cardamoms and half that quantity of cloves and caraway, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil three quarters of a pound of rice and a quarter of a pound of yellow peas till half cooked ; strain, and stir this into half a pound of boiling ghee and some more seasonings. Cook for a minute or two ; then put it in the pot with the chicken, along with four ounces of cleaned and split almonds, four ounces of dry white grapes, and a teaspoonful of saffron. Stir all together, and close the pot very closely, and cook till meat, etc., are tender. There should be very little moisture, but add more water if necessary, as great care must be taken that no charring takes place. Eat with bread, and any of the vegetables as cooked in Brahmin recipes. Seik Kawab. (Grilled Pickled Lamb.) Put in an earthenware dish four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one teaspoonful of ground large red chillies, half teaspoonful of ground green ginger, half teaspoonful 256 BOMBAY (Mussulman) of poppy seeds, one teaspoonful of ground coriander seeds, a pinch of saffron, a good pinch of ground cloves, one and a half teaspoonfuls of salt, four ounces of milk curd, juice of a lemon, two tablespoonfuls of mustard oil, and a little melted butter (ghee). Give all a good stir so that they may be thoroughly mixed. Cut two pounds of lamb into neat squares of about two inches, score them deeply on both sides (do this in opposite directions so as to avoid cutting right through the pieces), and pickle in the above mixture for two hours, turning repeatedly so that all the meat will absorb the mixture. Dry and thread these squares on to a sufficient number (six on each) of thin pieces of bamboo or ordinary skewers, and grill, basting as often as possible with ghee mixed with a little of the liquid in which they were pickled. Before serving take them off the skewers, and eat with bread, such as chapatee, phulka, etc., and chutnies. Kichri. (Curried Mutton.) Cut two pounds of mutton into quarter-inch squares. Fry in four ounces ghee (melted butter) two large onions cut in thin slices ; when light brown, place to the one side, and fry for two minutes in the same ghee a tea- spoonful each of turmeric, coriander, aniseed, and cardamoms, half that quantity of garlic, cinnamon, cloves, and green ginger, a red chilli, and some salt. Add more ghee, and fry a large cupful of washed rice, and the same quantity of lentils. Fry the pieces of mutton lightly on both sides. Put meat, onions, condi- 257 R BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS merits, rice and dal all together in a pan; pour in two cupfuls of water and half a cupful of ghee. Mix all together, and bring to the boil ; then place the pan at the side of the fire to cook slowly till the meat is tender. Add more water if the mixture is too dry. May be eaten with bread and any of the vegetables and chutnies given in the Brahmin dinner. Basundi ne Puri. (Cream and Pancakes.) Basundi. Reduce four pints of milk to a quarter its bulk by boiling, and add to it one pound castor sugar. After it gets a bit cool, add three ounces of almonds thinly sliced, a quarter ounce of cardamoms, and two ounces of " chironzia sapida" seeds (roughly chopped almonds will do equally well). It is served cold in the form of a thick liquid paste, and eaten with puri. Puri. Knead well half a pound of wheat flour with water, butter, and two ounces castor sugar. Roll out the paste and make about a dozen pancakes of it, and fry them on both sides in butter till they get brown in colour. Sola. (Vermicelli Pudding.) Steep some vermicelli till soft, then fry in plenty of ghee ; when it is cooked, stir in sufficient sugar syrup to make very sweet. Stir on the fire till it is all a soft firm mass ; then colour with saffron ; add some pieces of pine- apple cut small, and pour into a dish. Eat when cool. 2S8 BOMBAY (Mussulman) Bundee. (Sweet Balls.) Take half a pound of rough wheat flour, and cook in sufficient ghee (melted butter) until it forms into small pellets by continuous moving with a spoon. Boil four ounces of sugar with the same quantity of ghee which you put into the flour, till it is a liquid. Then add the pellets and boil till it takes a solid form, and let it cool. When cold enough roll into balls (with the hands) about the size of tennis balls, and eat when cold. Mo-Rubba. (Guava Preserve.) Peel and quarter some ripe guavas. Steep in water for an hour. Put them in a preserving pan and just cover with water ; boil for an hour, or till in a soft mass. Strain through a jelly bag overnight. Now put the juice in the pan again and boil for fifteen minutes ; then add enough sugar to sweeten, but not to deaden altogether the tartness of the fruit. Skim carefully, add the juice of five limes to every fifty guavas, and boil for half an hour, or till clear of scum. Pour into jars whilst hot, and cover closely when cold. Guava Cheese. Pass the pulp of the guavas, from which you have made the jelly, through a sieve, and add the juice of a lime to every three quarters of a pound weight of pulp. Boil slowly till quite thick, colour with cochineal, then pour into buttered pots and dry in a cool oven. 259 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Hulua. (Spiced Wheaten Sweet.) Make a syrup of half a pound of sugar. Brown half a pound of well-washed roughly ground wheat. Bring half a pound of ghee to the boil, and fry the wheat along with half a dozen cardamoms and three or four sticks of cinnamon. Keep the ingredients moving all the time. When lightly browned, stir in the syrup, and keep stirring till all becomes a thick mass. Pour on to a dish, and cut into neat pieces. 260 XXXIII.— BURMAH Menu Ameh-tha-Nat (Stewed Beef) Gnah-Jaw (Roast Fish) Cha-Zan-hin-jaw (Pork and Macaroni) Hmo Jaw (Roasted Mushrooms) Chet-tha-hin (Stewed Chicken) Woon-beh-oo-jaw (Ducks' Eggs Roasted) Gnah-Pee-goung (Minced Fish, Chillies, etc.) Woon-beh-jaw (Stewed Duck) Pa-Zoon-hin (Roast Prawns) Tha-yet-thee-chin (Pickled Fruit) Tho-tha-jaw (Fried Mutton) Thayet thee Zithei (Stewed Mangoes) (Stewed Plums) 261 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Ameh-tha-Nat. (Stewed Beef.) Wash twice two pounds of beef, and cut it into little pieces. Have half-a-teaspoonful of chillies, one tea- spoonful onions, quarter teaspoonful saffron, and half a teaspoonful salt, ground and fried in five ounces lard. Put in the meat and fry it. Then pour in some water, and when it is dried up add some curds and a little water, and when reduced to nearly four ounces dish and serve with boiled rice and pickled fruits. Rice. A thick cut of bamboo about three inches in diameter and eighteen inches long is half filled with rice, and water poured in till it stands three inches over the rice. The bamboo is then slung at an angle of 45 degrees on a tripod over a fire till all the water is evaporated, when the rice should be ready. Gnah Jaw. (Roast Fish.) Steep two pounds of strongly cured dried fish, skin upper- most, in some milk for four hours. Take the skin off and free from bones, and mince it finely. Take half a tea- spoonful of ground mild chillies, half a teaspoonful of cumin, quarter teaspoonful of nutmeg, one teaspoonful of ground onions, a pinch of pepper, and the pulp of two tomatoes reduced by boiling in oil. Make the whole, when mixed, into cakes the size of a five shilling piece. Roast in the oven, and when finished put a few drops of unsweetened lime juice on each cake. Serve with rice and sliced raw cucumber. 262 BURMAH Cha-Zan-hin-jaw. (Pork and Macaroni.) Take two pounds of good fresh pork, cut it into inch squares, and fry in lard. Parboil and drain some broad macaroni cut into one-inch lengths. Put the meat and macaroni in a pan, and add four ounces dried mushrooms, a handful of nasturtium leaves, a tablespoonful of olive oil, and some softened split yellow peas, pepper and salt, a dust of flour, a teaspoonful each of turmeric, cumin, and coriander, and two pints of water. Cook very slowly for an hour and a half. The moisture must be very little, and the meat tender and succulent. Eaten with rice and pickles. Hmo Jaw. (Roasted Mushrooms.) Clean well and skin some medium-sized mushrooms. Make a mixture of pounded onions, salt, pepper, and olive oil. Smear the underside of the mushrooms with this, and cook in oven till tender. Chet-tha-hin. (Stewed Chicken.) Clean a plump chicken and truss as for boiling. Rub it over with a mixture of pepper, salt, saffron, pounded chillies, pounded onions, sesamum oil, cardamoms, and cinnamon, and let stand for two hours. Place a sliced carrot and a slice of fried pork in the bottom of a pot. Put in chicken, add half a pint of water and half a pint of stock, and stew slowly till tender. Reduce thestock to a semi-glaze, and pour over. Add more salt if neces- sary, and serve with rice. 263 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Woon-beh-oo-Jaw. (Duck's Eggs Roasted.) Heat some oil in a pan ; add a quarter teaspoonful salt, one teaspoonful of pounded onions, half a teaspoonful of pounded chillies, and one teaspoonful of pounded cardamoms. Fry for a couple of minutes, then drop the eggs in one by one. Dish when cooked. Eat with pickles. Gnah-Pee-goung. (Minced Fish, Chillies, &c.) Clean some strongly cured fish from all skin and bones, and mince finely. Pound some large chillies and onions, and put in a dish with a plentiful supply of oil and roast. Serve with rice and picked vegetables dried and dressed with sesame oil and a little soy. The higher the fish the better the dish (sic !). Woon-beh-jaw. (Stewed Duck.) Bone a good fat duck without breaking the skin ; pour into it a mixture made of a teaspoonful each of mustard, sesame oil, and soy. Make a gravy of the bones and giblets, seasoning it with pepper, salt, soup- herbs, and a few bay leaves. Mince together with the liver of the duck two pounds and a half of good beef, half a pound of beef suet, a dessertspoonful of chopped garden herbs, a teaspoonful of grated bread-crumbs, a teaspoonful of curry powder, a sliced apple, and a tea- spoonful each of black pepper, salt, and sugar. Mix these well together, and stuff the duck. Put three 264 BURMAH ounces of good oil in a pot, and when hot, put in the duck along with a quarter of a pound of curdled milk, four steeped and stoned green mangoes, and six potatoes cleaned and quartered ; pour over the giblet gravy, and allow it to cook until tender. Eat with rice, pickles, and chutney. Pa-Zoon-hin. (Roast Prawns.) Shell one dozen large prawns, after parboiling them. Put two ounces of oil into a frying-pan till hot, then put in two teaspoonfuls of ground onions, half teaspoonful each of ground chillies and turmeric, and a pinch of ground garlic. When brown add the prawns and three quarters of a teaspoonful of salt, and fry them brown. Eaten with plain boiled rice and mixed pickles dressed in oil. Tha-yet-thee-chin. (Pickled Fruit.) Wipe dry some different kinds of plums, cherries, grapes, and any other small fruits which are not quite ripe. Boil sufficient very good vinegar to cover, adding a teaspoonful of turmeric, same of coriander and cumin seeds, half teaspoonful of cinnamon and half [that quantity of caraway, and half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper, to every quart of vinegar. When boiled up, pour over the fruits, which you had placed in jars, and when cold cork very tightly, and cover the latter in a couple of days with wax or bladder. 265 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Tho-tha-jaw. (Fried Mutton/ Two pounds of mutton, two tablespoonfuls of lard, two teaspoonfuls of coriander seed, one and a half tea- spoonfuls of salt, half tablespoonful curry powder, pinch of cayenne pepper, the same of white pepper, one small onion, one sour salted lime, six sour and salted plums, and three teacupfuls of water. Pound the coriander, salt, curry powder, cayenne, and onion, into a semi-solid paste, which fry in melted lard in a hot stew-pan for a minute, but do not let it char. Then put the meat (already washed in cold water and cut in small pieces) in the lard, stirring till it is thoroughly browned. Put in the water and the sour lime and sour plums, which have been pounded into a smooth mass, close the lid on the pot, and stew on a slow fire for one and a half hours, or till tender. The gravy left at the end of the cooking should be reduced to one cupful. Serve with boiled rice. If any vegetable is to be added to the meat, then it should be fried with the meat and undergo the same process as the meat. Skinned potatoes cut in quarters are the best. Thayet thee. (Stewed Mangoes.) Steep a dozen green mangoes in water for thirty-six hours. Drain thoroughly, and put them in a pan with strong sugar syrup, and stew till tender. 266 BURMAH Zithei. (Stewed Plums.) Wash and dry thoroughly and stew in the oven or at the side of the fire in a strong sugar syrup till tender but not pulped. Mixed Pickles. To every two quarts of the very best vinegar put one and a half ounces of white ginger, scraped and sliced, the same of long pepper, two ounces of peeled shallots, one ounce peeled garlic, one and a half ounces salt, one ounce turmeric, one ounce coriander, half ounce mace, pinch of cayenne, and one ounce mustard seeds. Boil for a few minutes. Have ready a shred white cabbage and a cauliflower broken into small branches, some small white radishes, young French beans (stringed), small gherkins, and small silver onions. Pour boiling brine over them, and let steep for three days. Drain and dry in a cloth, and then thoroughly dry on a sieve in front of the fire. Place this in bottles with the vinegar. Keep uncorked for two days, and put more vinegar in when required, as fhe vegetables must be completely covered. Cork and seal with wax to exclude all air. 267 XXXIV.— CENTRAL PROVINCES (Brahmin) Menu Bhat Dahl Ghee (Rice) (Lentils) (Clarified Butter) Aloobhat (Curried Rice and Potatoes) S6m Badre (Broad Beans) (Curried Tomatoes) Wilpussan Chahkee Mutter Chahkee (Curried Turnips) (Green Peas) Dahl Falooree (Spiced Lentil Crusts) Karanji Sa-oo Bhahjees (Cocoanut Croquettes) (Baked Apples) Shrikhand (Sugared Cream) Hulluah (Cinnamon Sweet) 268 CENTRAL PROVINCES (Brahmin) Bhat. (Rice.) Wash the rice thoroughly, and, having put it in a pot, add water until it reaches a level about three inches higher than the rice. Boil until rice is soft, then cover the pot and leave it on the hot embers until the fire dies out. No water is poured off, and nothing else is added. Dahl. (Lentils.) First boil the water, and when fully boiling put in some split lentils and allow them to become soft. After putting in the lentils, and when boiling point is again reached, add a little turmeric powder. Allow the con- tents to simmer half an hour, stir well, add hot water, and some salt. Aloobhat. (Curried Rice and Potatoes.) Half pound of rice, one pound potatoes. Wash rice well, and cut potatoes into thin slices. Put rice in four ounces boiling ghee, stir a little, and then take out. Put a thin layer of this rice in a pot, and place upon it a thin layer of raw potato. Again rice and again potato, and so on until material is used up. Put the pot upon a slow fire. Another pot full of water is placed upon the first, so that the vapour from the first may condense and fall back into the lower pot. Finally salt, chillies, cloves, and cinnamon are added on removing from fire. 269 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Sem. (Curried Beans.) Wash and steep in clean water two pounds of red or white beans (haricot) for twelve hours ; strain and fry lightly in four ounces of boiling linseed oil in which you have first fried a teaspoonful of mustard seeds ; add one teaspoonful each of cumin, coriander, and turmeric, a very little green ginger, one sliced green chilli, one ground red chilli , a large cupful of water, and a teaspoonful of salt, and stew till the beans are quite tender. Use the water that the beans were steeped in for the stewing. Eat with rice, bread, ghee, chutney, etc. Sultana Chutney. Soak one pound of sultana raisins in thirty ounces of good vinegar till quite soft. Take them out and pound to a soft mass. Now put the vinegar back, along with twelve ounces of sugar, three ounces each of ground green ginger, garlic, and salt, three quarters of an ounce of ground red chillies, and twenty-four almonds blanched and split. Mix all well together, and bottle. Badre. (Curried Tomatoes). Plump two pounds of tomatoes in boiling water for a minute, then remove the skins and cut in quarters. Bring to the boil two ounces of refined linseed oil, in which fry a teaspoonful of mustard seeds till they are dancing ; then put in the tomatoes, two ounces of melted ghee, a teaspoonful each of salt, turmeric, coriander, and red chillies, a squeeze of lemon, and a pinch of sugar. Stew till the moisture is nearly reduced to nil. Eat with ghee, chapatee, rice, lentils, and chutnies. 270 CENTRAL PROVINCES (Brahmin) Mango Pickle. Peel and half split fifty unripe mangoes. Remove the stones, fill the insides, and cover with salt ; stand for two days, after which wipe dry with a cloth. Make a mixture composed of sixteen ounces of green ginger, salt and garlic (of each six ounces), two ounces each of red chillies and mustard seeds, and half an ounce of cardamons. Pound all these and fill the split mangoes with it. Boil for four minutes three large bottles of very good vinegar along with two pounds of sugar, one ounce of bruised ginger, and half an ounce of ground saffron. Stir till it comes to the boil. When cold pour over the mangoes, which you have put in glass bottles. When cold tie down. Wilpussan Chahkee. (Curried Turnips.) Young turnips are the nearest approach to Wilpussan that can be got in this country. Put in a pot two pounds of small turnips cut in pieces ; add sufficient water to cover, also a teaspoonful of salt. Boil till quite tender, drain, and return to the pot, along with four ounces of ghee, two teaspoonfuls of Garam Massalla, a pounded red chilli, a pinch of saffron, and more salt if necessary. Stew for other twenty minutes, giving an occasional stir, so that all the spices are well mixed and the turnip in a soft mass. Eat with lentils, rice, ghee, new unleavened bread, chutnies, etc. For European cookery turnips are simply boiled in salted water, drained, mashed, with pepper, salt, and butter added. 27 i BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Mutter Chahkee. (Green Peas.) Put in a pot of boiling water half an ounce of sugar and two pounds of shelled green peas, and boil steadily for twenty minutes ; drain, and put them in another pot. Now fry lightly inpour ounces of boiling ghee six ounces of roughly chopped onions, which add to the peas with a ground red chilli, and salt to taste. Stew gently for another twenty minutes. Eat with lentils, rice, new unleavened bread, ghee, chutnies, etc. Dahl Falooree. (Spiced Lentil Crusts.) Put into a basin two pounds of lentil flour which has been perfectly dried, two pounds of onions, a table- spoonful of parsley and sorrel (all finely chopped), a dessertspoonful of salt, and the same quantity of finely ground green ginger. Mix all thoroughly. Pour in sufficient water, very gradually, to make it into a paste which will stand by itself when dropped off a spoon. The mixture must be continually and smartly beaten when the water is being added so that it foams much like whipped cream. Boil eight slices of lemon peel in a deep pan half full of ghee. When the peel is thoroughly cooked take it out, and with a tablespoon drop the mixture in the shape of rocks into the boiling ghee, and allow to brown on all sides. Continue doing this till all the mixture is finished. Be careful to remove all floating particles before putting in additional mixture. These must be eaten hot. 272 CENTRAL PROVINCES (Brahmin) Karanji. (Cocoanut Croquettes.) Mix one pound coarse wheatflour, one ounce rice powder, four ounces ghee, and a little milk : knead, and roll out. Now mix half ounce rice powder and two ounces ghee. This is applied to the first, and the whole wrought together. Then the whole is made into small balls the size of a walnut and flattened with the hands into thin cakes. Mix one and a half pounds grated cocoanut, four ounces poppy seeds, four ounces currants, half that quantity of cloves, and two pounds sugar. This is called "puran." A little puran is put in the middle of each cake. They are then doubled over so as to enclose the puran, and the edges, after being wet, closely pressed, thus forming a purse shape. The cakes or croquettes are then cooked in boiling ghee. Sa-oo Bhahjees. (Baked Apples.) Peel and core as many apples as you require. Plug up the bottoms with pieces of other apples, and fill the centres with a mixture made of the following ingredients — viz., one ounce of the best ghee, two ounces of sugar, and one of lime-juice. Put rather more than an ounce of ghee in the bottom of a baking pan, on which lay the apples, sprinkle plenty of sugar on top, and cover the pan. Put them in the oven, and after ten minutes baste with their juice and ajlittle more sugar ; do this several times till three-parts done. Now add six ounces of lime-juice 273 s BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS diluted to half its strength with water. Great care must be taken that the sugar and butter does not char. The liquid should be much of the same consistency and colour as dark golden syrup. Shrikhand. (Sugared Cream.) Reduce ten pounds of milk to a fourth of its bulk by boiling on a slow fire, so as to get a good thick cream, and put it into a towel and hang up to drip. When it is well drained take a chatty (deep dish or pan) and tie a rough towel over it. Then put a lump of the curd and a handful of sugar on the towel, and with the hand press the mixture through the towel into the chatty ; continue doing this till all the curds are finished and three pounds of sugar used. Mix a thimble- ful of saffron with a little milk, and add it along with a few ground cardamoms and some small pieces of broken sugar candy to the mixture. Hulluah. (Cinnamon Sweet.) Soak one pound of roughly ground wheat till the water is of a thickish milky nature. Strain this through a coarse cloth into a pan, in which you will also put half a pound of sugar. Boil till it begins to thicken (you must stir all the time) ; add six ounces of ghee in which you have boiled for five minutes six white cardamoms and six sticks of cinnamon. Continue stirring till mixture is thick. Remove seasonings ; take pot from the fire, whip till it is like foam and make into large rough balls. 274 XXXV.— CENTRAL PROVINCES (Mussulman) Menu Rohu-ka-Pillau Machi Hussanee (Pillau of Carp) (Trout Cutlets) Keera Chahkee Chuckunda Chahkee (Curried Cucumbers) (Curried Beetroot) Cofta-ka-Curree Kabutar Bhahjee Kullah Yekhanee (Minced Kid Balls) (Fried Pigeons) (Lamb Curry) Goolgoola Khir Rajah-ku-Pasand (Cinnamon Balls) (Sugared Rice) (Rajah Pudding) Hulluah (Almond and Raisin Sweet) 275 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Rohu-ka-Pillau. (Pillau of Carp.) Take two pounds of carp, free from skin and bones, and cut into two-inch squares. Cut four large onions into very fine slices, fry to a red brown in four ounces of boiling ghee, and place to the one side. Fry in the same ghee, for two minutes, one teaspoonful each of ground coriander and cumin seeds, half a teaspoonful each of cinnamon and cardamoms, a pounded point of garlic, a large red chilli ground to a powder, and a good pinch of saffron. Put in the pan the pieces of carp and brown very lightly on both sides. Having soaked one pound of rice for a couple of hours, strain and put it into six ounces of boiling ghee and fry till all the ghee has been absorbed, after which place the fish on top, then the condiments along with the cooked ghee, a cupful of milk curd, a cupful of water, and a dessertspoonful of salt. Cover closely, and stew very slowly, taking care not to char. When the rice is quite soft put the whole mass on a dish, and strew the onions on top. Machi Hussanee. (Trout Cutlets.) Remove skin and bones from two pounds of trout, mince very fine, and pound to a paste. Rub in half a teaspoonful each of ground white pepper, turmeric, ground onions, a large teaspoonful of salt, four tablespoonfuls of water, a cupful of rice flour, and two well-beaten eggs. When thoroughly mixed, take small portions and make into round balls, then with the hands flatten them out 276 CENTRAL PROVINCES (Mussulman) to the size of five-shilling pieces and half an inch thick. String them on to iron or silver skewers, brush over with melted ghee, and roll in a plantain leaf (buttered paper will do). Grill in front of or over the fire. Eat with chapatee and fish chutney. Keera Chahkee. (Curried Cucumbers.) Cut two pounds of cucumbers into inch lengths and steep in salt and water for two hours. Carefully drain as much of the moisture away as you possibly can, after which put them in a pot along with a teaspoonful each of ground onions, turmeric, coriander, and chillies, also four ounces of melted ghee and four of sliced onions which have been fried together, and stew gently till tender but not pulpy. Chuckunda. (Curried Beetroot.) Boil two pounds of small roots till tender. When quite cold remove the skin very carefully ; cut in slices and place in a pan with four ounces of melted ghee, a teaspoonful each of salt, turmeric, coriander, ground onions, and chillies, and half a cup of milk curd. Stew at the side of the fire for fifteen minutes. Eat with meats, vegetables, rice, and bread. Cofta-ka-Ccjrree. (Minced Kid Balls.) Mince and pound to a smooth paste two pounds of kid. Mix with this a large tablespoonful of strong broth made from the sinews and bones from the n e.it, 277 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS a tablespoonful of ground onions, a ground red chilli, a teaspoonful of salt, a cupful of ground rice flour, and two well-beaten eggs. Mix all this very thoroughly, and take small portions in the hands and form into balls rather larger than walnuts. In six ounces of boiling ghee fry two large onions finely shred, a teaspoonful each of ground turmeric and cumin, and half a teaspoonful each of caraway, aniseed, and red chillies. Now brown the balls ; add half a cupful of the broth, the same quantity of cream (milk reduced to a fourth of its bulk by boiling), a pinch of red pepper, and a little more salt. Stew very slowly for at least two hours. Eat with rice or chapatee and chutnies. Kabutar Bhahjee. (Fried Pigeons.) Cut up six pigeons into halves. Stab the breasts and legs with a sharp knife. Rub them with a mixture of half a teaspoonful each of coriander and green ginger, a quarter-teaspoonful each of ground onions, carda- moms, cinnamon, and black pepper, and a good half teaspoonful of salt. Let them soak in this for an hour. Fry in eight ounces of boiling ghee one pound of finely- sliced onions ; when a red brown, place to the one side. Put into the ghee half a teaspoonful of ground red chillies and quarter of a teaspoonful of turmeric, and when boiling put in the pigeons (which you have wiped) and fry carefully on both sides, turning occasionally, so that the flesh may be thoroughly cooked. Dish with the onions strewn on the top, and eat with chapatee and chutney. 278 CENTRAL PROVINCES (Mussulman) Lime Chutney. Cut twenty-five limes into quarters half way through ; stuff them with salt, and dry them for three days in the sun, bringing them in at sunset. Give them a good shake each time before putting them out in tha morning. Mince small the dried limes. Pound in good vinegar twenty -five dry dates, fifteen large dry red chillies, three whole peeled garlics, and one ounce of green ginger. Mix all together and sweeten with sugar, first adding to it the strained juice of twenty-five limes. It will be ready in a week. A cool oven will do in place of the sun. Kullah Yekhanee. (Curried Lamb.) Fry in eight ounces of boiling ghee four large onions finely sliced, and when red brown place to the one side. Now put in two pounds of fat lamb cut in inch-and-half squares, and fry lightly on both sides, first having sprinkled them with a teaspoonful and a half of salt. Put in the fried onions, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, a teaspoonful each of red chillies, turmeric, and coriander, six cardamoms, one ounce of sugar, two ounces of lime juice, two bay leaves, and one cupful each of water and milk curd. Cover very closely and simmer over a gentle fire for two hours. If the curry is too dry add a little more water ; but there must be very little gravy. Eat with rice, chapatee, and chutney. 279 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Tomato Chutney. Bake in an oven two pounds of tomatoes until the skins burst ; break them down, and mix with them a teaspoonful each of ground red chillies and salt, half a teaspoonful each of ground green ginger, ground onions, and mustard oil, a good pj/tich of sugar, and the juice of half a lemon. Goolgoola. (Cinnamon Balls.) In a pound of flour mix in a little yeast melted in one ounce of milk. Make a hole in the middle and add enough water to make a nice stiff dough ; now work in one pound of sugar and fifteen ounces of milk, and place it on the fire in a pan along with six sticks of cinnamon. Stir the mixture till it becomes a soft, solid mass. When cool roll into small balls, and fry in plenty of boiling ghee. Khir. (Sugared Rice.) One pound of rice, two pounds of sugar, four ounces of blanched almonds, four ounces of sultana raisins, four ounces of sugar candy, two thimblefuls of ground carda- moms, and one thimbleful of saffron. Wash the rice well, rub it with some ghee, and put in boiling water (double the quantity of rice). Boil till half-cooked, drain off the water, put it in a flat dish, and mix the saffron, the almonds (cut in halves), the raisins, and the sugar. Put a chatty (a deep pan or dish) on the fire, and pour in half a pound of the ghee ; when boiling, put in the prepared rice and stir well till the sugar 280 CENTRAL PROVINCES (Mussulman) turns to a syrup. Cover it and simmer at the side of the fire till the rice has taken up all the moisture. Now put in the remaining ghee, the cardamoms, and the sugar- candy broken into small pieces ; give it a stir, and remove from the fire. Before serving mix in a few pieces of pine-apple freed of skin and hard bits. Rajah-ul-Pasand. (Rajah Pudding.) Ingredients. — Flour, four ounces ; cream, four ounces (milk reduced to a fourth of its bulk by boiling) ; ghee, one pound ; sugar, half a pound ; ground almonds, four ounces ; sliced almonds, two ounces ; sultana raisins, two ounces ; orange peel, one and a half ounces ; six ground cloves ; ground cardamoms, one dozen ; nutmeg, one ounce ; and half a dozen well-switched eggs. Boil the sugar to a strong syrup. Stir in the flour gradually, and when boiling add the cream and melted ghee ; stir well, then put in the fruits and mixed spices, and again bring to the boil. Remove the pan from the fire ; stir in the switched eggs, beating all the time, and pour into a dish. Hulluah. (Almond and Raisin Sweet.) Fry in a pound of boiling ghee one pound of roasted roughly-ground wheat, eight white cardamoms, and four sticks of cinnamon. Now stir in a pound of blanched and split almonds and a pound of sultana raisins, after which add a pound and a half of sugar syrup, and stir till it thickens. Pour on to an oiled deep flat dish, and when cooling cut into shapes ; or it may be poured into oiled fancv forms. 281 XXXVI.— CEYLON Menu Thora Malu Kellewelle Malu (Curried Mackerel) (Curried Whiting) Gona Malu Pirni (Curried Elk) Kukul Vejenjana Kaytas Hava Malu Pirni (Curried Fowl) (Meat Balls) (Curried Hare) Alle Vejenjana Labu Malu Pirni (Potato Curry) (Curried Pumpkins) Mulligatani (Mulligatawny Soup) E Frijoles Negras. (Black Bean , Soup). The night before the soup is made soak one pint of black beans in three quarts of water. On the following morning drain the water off the beans and put them into a saucepan with three quarts of fresh water. When boiling move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let them simmer for six hours, when the water should be reduced to one quart. Now put in a bunch of sweet herbs, one large onion, a slice each of carrot and turnip, and a stalk of celery, all of which have been finely chopped and fried in butter. Add a small quantity of whole allspice, cloves, mace, and cinnamon, and pour in one quart of stock. Put one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour in a frying pan, and stir 453 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS over the fire till brown, which mix into the soup, and keep simmering for one hour. Put some slices ot lemon in a soup tureen, pour in the soup, straining it through a fine hair sieve, and serve with a dish of egg balls. Sopa de Col. (Cabbage Soup.) Fry in butter some breadcrumbs, with salt and pepper. In this place some cooked sliced cabbage and four pints of milk. Add another piece of butter very slightly rolled in flour, and bring to the boil, after which remove from the fire, and stir in the yolks of four eggs. Huevos al Gusto. (Eggs and Rice.) Fry in oil a point of garlic and some chillies. After the latter are cooked put them to one side. Throw away the piece of garlic. Put in the pan some well- washed rice which has been soaked in water for three hours, and fry it along with the pulp of some good fresh tomatoes, seasoning it with salt and pepper. Serve the rice on an entree dish, on the top of which place some neatly trimmed fried eggs. Garnish with the fried chillies, which you have again heated up, and serve very hot. Peseado. (Fillets of Mackerel.) Boil a couple of nice mackerels, and, when cold, remove skin and bones and cut into neat pieces, and pour over some tomato sauce. May be served as a separate dish or with any kind of cold meats. 454 MEXICO Tomato Sauck. (Sharp.) Mince up together a point of ground garlic and half a dozen tomatoes, and mix along with some breadcrumbs, vinegar, pepper, salt, mint, chopped onions, cooked chillies, and sufficient oil to make the whole the con- sistency of thick cream. Tamales. (Croquettes of Sheep's Brains.) Boil half a pound of brains gently for twenty minutes, and put them for a few minutes in cold water ; peel off the outside, chop up the brains, and add one break- fastcupful of breadcrumbs. Mash all together, then add one teaspoonful of finely minced parsley, one ounce of butter, the yolk of an egg, a little lemon juice, grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Mix all well together, and after flouring the hands make it up into shapes like sausages. Take and fill some husks oi Indian corn with this mixture, and place them in a pan with some well- seasoned second stock, and simmer gently for an hour. Strain the stock and boil some rice in it. Again strain the stock, and reduce it to a semi-glaze. Dish the tamales, surround them with the rice in which some thick cream has been mixed, and garnish with slices of lemon. Frijoles. (Stewed Beans with Rice.) Remove the rind of half a pound of streaky bacon, cut it up into pieces one inch long and half an inch thick, and put them into boiling water to blanch. Take them 455 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS out in five minutes, drain, put them into a large saucepan over the fire, and cook until they are of a light brown colour. Then add half an ounce of flour, stir for two or three minutes longer, add three teaspoonfuls of red wine, two teacupfuls of water, a green chilli, and a small point of garlic. Simmer gently on the side of the fire for twenty-five minutes, then add one quart of red haricot beans (boiled till quite tender), two cupfuls of good brown stock, and pepper and salt to taste. Bring to the boil. Strain the stock, which season with a glaze made of a sliced onion, piece of ham, a carrot sliced, and fried in a pan. Put a good piece of butter on the beans, and serve in a hot dish with tortillas, and the sauce in a sauce-boat. Tortillas. (Bean Cakes.) Make a good soft dough of bean flour, water, and sait. Roll out, cut into rounds, and cook on a girdle till brown on both sides. Vaca Estofada. (Stewed Beef.) Chop up into two-inch squares two pounds of juicy beef freed from fat, skin, and gristle ; brown them in a saucepan with butter and two onions cut in square pieces ; add two tablespoonfuls of flour ; and cook for six minutes. Stir well, and moisten with one quart of broth and one gill of tomato sauce, and cook for half an hour. Then put in eight raw potatoes (cut in quar- ters), the same quantity of tomatoes, a handful of French 456 MEXICO beans, a small quantity of parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, a few small pieces of lean bacon, some bits of sausages, a good pinch of salt, half a pinch of pepper, and a crushed point of garlic, and cook thoroughly for twenty-five minutes. When done, turn out the whole (without the bunch of sweet herbs) on to a dish, and surround with plain boiled rice. Enchiladas. (Fried Tomatoes and Indian Corn). Scald, peel, and cut into pieces sufficient tomatoes to fill three breakfast cups ; put them into a saucepan with a good piece of butter, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and then simmer at the side of the fire till they are reduced to one breakfastcupful. Put twelve tender roasting ears of corn into a saucepan of water, and boil for quarter of an hour ; then cut the corn from the cob, when there should be about two breakfastcupfuls. Add them to the tomatoes with the yolks of two eggs, cook slowly for two or three minutes, and turn the preparation out on to a dish to cool. Make a paste with water and equal quantities of ground Indian corn and beans and a little salt and pepper. Roll this out thin, and cut into rounds the size of a breakfast cup. Spread each with the thin mixture, sprinkle some very finely chopped onions and grated cheese over each, then cover with one of the rounds, and fry in oil. Asado de Res. (Roast Mutton.) Place the mutton in a vessel of red wine for two days, taking care that it is well covered. On the third day 457 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS add water and good vinegar, and place in a pan with a point of garlic, two laurel leaves, one whole onion, a slice of lemon, pepper and salt to taste. Bring to the boil, skim carefully, then place at the side of the fire to simmer from two to three hours. Strain the liquor, add a little browning, and reduce the whole to a semi-glaze, which pour over the meat. Serve with boiled potatoes and vegetables. Coles Morados. (Browned Cauliflower.) Semi-boil a cauliflower, and break up into nice branches. Peel and core six green apples, which place with the cauliflower in a pan with one pint of milk, four ounces of butter, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Simmer on a slow fire till all are tender. Pour into a dish, and brown in a sharp oven. If there is too much liquid, thicken with the yolks of eggs. Barquillo de Papas. (Potato Pudding.) Take half a pound of mashed potatoes (they ought really to be sweet potatoes), four ounces of butter, four eggs, a quarter pint of milk, three tablespoonfuls of sherry, half a saltspoonful of salt, the juice of one small lemon, the rind minced up very fine, two ounces of sugar, a handful of stoned raisins, and the same quantity of chopped blanched almonds. Mix all well together and put into a buttered pie-dish, and bake for rather more than half an hour. Ten minutes before it is ready pour a well-whipped egg over, and finish cooking. 458 MEXICO Miel Queso Tartinas. (Cheese Tartlets.) Fill some puff paste moulds with the following pre- paration : — 4 Put half a pound of sugar, two ounces of honey, and two ounces of butter into a saucepan together with the grated rinds and juire of two oranges and the juice of two lemons. Stir well over the fire, and when boiling add the yolks of three eggs, the white of one, and a little rose water ; remove the pan to the side of the fire, and stir till the mixture has the appearance of melted cheese. Tortillas de Queso. (Cheese Cakes.) Dissolve two teaspoonfuls of salt in one pint of cold water, in which put one tablespoonful of cornflour smoothly, and beat until it froths, then stir in a spoonful of grated cheese and enough flour to make a rather thin batter. Fry the tortillas in a hot frying-pan rubbed with a piece of butter tied in a cloth. 459 LXL— MOROCCO Menu (Sprinkle with Rose Water and scent with Incense of Sandal Wood.) Tajj Chai Sarah Sambusaq Mutagayir (Green Tea Syrup) (Assorted Pastries) Hareera (Chicken Soup) Tajin Dojaja Zeitoum (Stewed Neck of Mutton) (Fowl and Olives) Baisar (Bean Porridge) Saraj min Dan (Saddle of Mutton) Samak bi Toum (Fish in Garlic) Haman-bi-louz Kabab Haneesha (Broiled Pigeons) (Grilled Livers) (Meat Pie) F'toor (Egg and Coriander Soup) Kesksoo or Sikoo (Stew with Semolina) Tajj Chai Sarab Sambusaq Mutagayir (Green Tea Syrup) (Assorted Pastries) (Incense burning and sprinkling with Orange-flower Water!) 460 MOROCCO Tajj Chai Sarah. (Green Tea Syrup.) Infuse tea in the ordinary way, with the addition of a good quantity of sugar. After it has infused for a few minutes put some mint leaves in the pot, keeping the stalks out by fixing them between the lid and pot, and brew for a few minutes longer. Then serve in small glasses before and after dinner with light pastry, such as small round cakes of shortbread (the same as you get in tins in this country), various kinds of tartlets of rich flaky puff paste filled with pounded almonds and dipped in sugar and then glazed with apricot marmalade, honey, etc. Hareera. (Chicken Soup.) Make a good stock of chickens and any handy bones. Strain off fat ; then put in all kinds of vegetables cut small, and when these are cooked thicken the stock with milk and flour. Season with pepper, salt, mace, caraway, and nutmeg. Serve pieces of chicken with the soup, which must be thick. Tajin. (Stewed Neck of Mutton.) Boil some oil till it smokes, and add two tablespoonfuls of capsicum (powdered). When boiling, add half a pint of water. Stand till cold ; then pour off the clear oil from the top into a stewpan. Add a head of garlic, some minced almonds, two ounces of stoned raisins, a pinch each of ground caraway and cinnamon. Bring to the boil ; put in the mutton cut up into pieces about the size 461 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS of a five-shilling piece ; stew at the side of the fire till tender. When nearly done add some pepper and salt, all kinds of vegetables handy, more especially artichokes (but not potatoes), and some hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters. Serve with sliced oranges and split radishes. Dojaja Zeitoum. (Fowl and Olives.) Cut a fowl in eight pieces, and stew in two ounces of butter and three tablespoonfuls of oil, with pepper, salt, and saffron (all in powder), the butter to be put in first and the oil poured on when melted. The meat should be first rubbed with salt, and left so for ten minutes, after which the salt is washed off just before putting it into the pot. Cook a quarter of an hour, then replace the lid for ten minutes, after which put in three onions cut up, and pour on a pint of water ; boil till nearly all this has evaporated. Stew till no moisture comes out, when a fork is stuck into the meat. Now add two ounces of raisins, and in five minutes add three dozen olives and a large pinch of grated nutmeg. Leave it near the fire for a quarter of an hour. Serve with plain boiled rice like a curry. It should take altogether an hour and a half to cook. Baisar. (Bean Porridge.) Bring a quart of good stock to near boiling point, and add a pint of split broad beans (which have been well soaked) , leaving them to boil for half an hour, removing the scum as it rises. If they are then tender, take them 462 MOROCCO off the fire, which should not be too fierce ; but, if still hard, keep them boiling till done. Then stir well with a wire whisk till the whole is reduced to a paste. Now add the minced heart of a very small boiled cabbage and two or three boiled and chopped onions with one gill of cream, one and a half ounces of butter, a little ground cumin and nutmeg, a point of garlic, salt, and a pinch of red pepper, and stir gently over the fire for a few minutes ; but not to boil. Serve very hot. Saraj min Dan. (Saddle of Mutton.) Boil one pound of oil in a stewpan till it smokes, then add half a pound of butter along with some artichoke stalks and black olives steeped in lemon juice, and one or two apples, seasoning with some pounded cumin, coriander, parsley and marjoram, cinnamon and nut- meg, being very careful as to the use of the two latter. Cook for a little, then add the meat. When the meat has absorbed most of the oil, add water, hot or cold, to make the required quantity of gravy. Keep close covered, and turn, taking care that the fire is not fierce enough to burn it. Serve with a plate of pounded cumin and salt mixed. Samak bi Toum. (Fish in Garlic.) Half a dozen large herrings, or an equal quantity of any fish, prepared in the following style, form a favourite dish. 463 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Boil four ounces of oil in a frying pan over a slow- fire. When bubbling add half an ounce of sweet red pepper powder and a little water. The fish being filleted, put them on the bottom of a stewpan, cover with chopped green coriander leaves, three points of garlic, breadcrumbs, and salt ; pour half a pint of water on the oil and let it boil for ten minutes. Cool and pour into a stewpan, being careful not to wash the breadcrumbs, etc., off. Keep out the red pepper sediment ; throw it away. The dish will be ready in from twenty minutes to half an hour if kept covered. See that it does not burn. A slow fire is preferable. Serve with sliced oranges. Haman bi-louz. (Broiled Pigeons.) Clean and truss some pigeons, make a stuffing of semi- boiled rice and chopped almonds, and season with aromatic spices, pepper and salt, and fry in plenty of butter. When cooked, strain the gravy, add some water, and thicken slightly with a little flour. Blanch some almonds, and put them in the gravy, which serve with the pigeons, along with bread and salt. Kabab. (Grilled Liver.) Cut half a pound of calf's liver into pieces the size of a two-shilling piece, a quarter of an inch thick ; also cut a quarter of a pound of fat into pieces half of that size. Roll all in mixed coriander, cumin powder and parsley, pepper and salt, and thread alternately on skewers. Broil over a slow clear fire. Turn occasionally, and serve (if possible on the skewers) with hot new bread. 464 MOROCCO Haneesha. (Meat Pie). Take a large flat dish, which line with rich flaky puff paste. Mince some meat very fine ; partly fry it in butter in which sliced onions have been cooked. Season with spices, pepper, and salt, and mix in some finely chopped hard-boiled eggs, and place all the mixture in the dish. Decorate with thin narrow strips of paste (just the same as on a cross-bar tart), brush with the yolk of an egg, and put in oven till cooked. F'toor. (Egg and Coriander Soup.) Chop up four onions very fine, with pepper, salt, and a handful of green coriander leaves. Put into a pan with one and a half ounces of strong butter, and add three quarters of a pound of meat cut into dice. Leave all to simmer for about half an hour, watching that it does not burn. Then fill up with two pints of water. Leave it to stew slowly till the meat is tender, then add three ounces of vermicelli. Mix three ounces of flour and the juice of a lemon into a smooth thin paste with water, and pour it in. Boil a quarter of an hour longer, and remove from the fire ; at that moment pour in three eggs well beaten up, and serve. Kesksoo or Sikoo. (Stew with Semolina.) On shaking up semolina in a tray, the coarse grains (fakhar) are taken off as they rise, a double handful being thrown ;into a shallow earthenware pan (gessa) and a tablespoonful of water sprinkled over it. Then a handful 465 2G BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS of finer semolina is thrown on, then a little more water as before, and more fine flour, the manipulator all the time rolling it over the bottom of the pan with the palms of the hands, so that each original grain grows into a minute ball the size of No. 4 shot. The whole is then sifted in a coarse sieve to remove the larger particles, which are rubbed in the hands to break them up, and put back into the pan to be worked with the hands as before, while fine flour is sifted on. When ready, the grains are placed in a steamer over water, and steamed till all are separate, which can be ascertained by inspection. Put some salt into the bottom half of the steamer with an ounce or two of butter ; add sliced onions, pepper, ginger, nutmeg, coriander, allspice, turmeric, and saffron; pound or grind the spices together. Chopped parsley, marjoram, and green coriander to be added if in season. Next put in two fowls, each cut into eight pieces, and a pound of lean mutton cut into inch squares, and fry altogether for three minutes, then add enough water to submerge the meats, etc. Cover close, and put on a slow fire, after stirring well. When the water boils away add more, hot or cold. When the meat is tender and the stew boils, place the top half of the steamer on with the kesksoo in it. See that all the steam passes through the grains by securing the joint with dough or a cloth. Steam until quite soft, and, when ready to serve heap up in a dish (makhfiyah), working in sufficient butter, fresh or preserved, or both, to cover each grain without causing them to stick together or leaving melted butter in the bottom of the dish. The making of a good dish of kesk- 466 MOROCCO . soo is a dash of good old smeen, which may be prepared at home by keeping unsalted butter till it becomes rancid and then boiling it down. In a separate pot put in some sliced onions, and simmer in gravy from the stew with a little butter, spices, a little saffron, and some raisins. Broad beans, when fresh, to be added to the stew, or any vegetable except potato, though not in large quanti- ties. When the heap is ready, place the meat from the stew in a depression in the centre, and pile on the big vegetables first, with the onions, raisins, etc., on top. It may then be sprinkled with cinnamon, if fancied. Another way to serve kesksoo is to work it up with fresh butter only, and cover the heap with a thick layer of powdered sugar, cinnamon being plentifully sprinkled over all. Sfinges. (Sponge Fritters.) Knead one pound of flour into a stiff dough for half an hour with warm water and one ounce of leaven, keeping on till it bubbles ; then commence to thin down by adding warm water in small quantities and kneading well till it is reduced to a thick paste sufficiently stiff to remain in a long thread from the finger to the trough when a piece is pulled up with the hand. Leave it to ferment for a quarter of an hour, or more if necessary, till bubbles rise freely. It is then ready to fry. Take hold of a piece in the hand, and break off a ball the size of a hen's egg. Pierce this with the forefingers and thumbs of each hand, and, drawing it out into a 467 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS ring, drop it into boiling oil, turning it over when one side is browned. These are deliriously light and appetising, and may be eaten either alone or with salt, sugar, honey, etc., with tea. Hartaitahs. (Pikelets.) Prepare some dough as for sfinges. Clean an earthen pan by well rubbing with soft soap and drying. Place it on a slow fire till very hot ; then drop in a spoonful of the thin dough. When set, turn the pikelet, being careful not to burn. Put a small piece of butter and a little honey on the top of each. Serve very hot. Eaten with tea. 468 LXII.— NORWAY Rokt Lax (Smoked Salmon) Menu Torksrom (Cod's Roe) Sardines (Sardines) Gulerodder Suppe med Ris (Carrot Soup with Rice) Fisk Podding (Fish Pudding) Bentose Fugler (Boneless Birds) Olsuppe (Beer Soup) Plokfish (Plucked Fish) Stuvet Kalv (Stewed Veal) Stegte Rype (Roast Ptarmigan) Stikkelsbaergrod (Gooseberry Fool) Ribs is Creme (Red Currant Ice Cream) Frugt (Fruit) 469 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Guleroddek Suppe mku Ris. (Carrot Soup with Rice.) Mince one pound of carrots and half a pound of turnips, fresh and tender, and fry them in a stewpan with a piece of butter, a little salt, and one pinch of sugar ; moisten with a little broth, put the cover on the stewpan, remove it to the side of the Tire, and let it boil until the broth is reduced, stirring the carrots and turnips about occa- sionally. Boil two or three peeled potatoes in salted water, diain, and dry in the oven, mash them with the carrots and turnips, and pass all together through a sieve. Put this puree into a stewpan, add slowly two quarts of good broth, and stir it ; when it boils, remove the stewpan to the side of the fire, and simmer for twenty- five minutes. Season with salt and pepper, skim all the scum off, thicken with three yolks of eggs, pour it through a fine sieve into a soup tureen in which you have placed three cupfuls of warm boiled rice and some fried croutons. Olsuppk. (Beer Soup.) Mix two spoonfuls of ground rice in one quart of milk ; add one quart of mild beer, seasoning the whole with the peel of a lemon, and sugar to taste. Put in a pot- and boil briskly, stirring all the time. This soup does not do to stand long, so serve as soon as possible with wheaten biscuits. Fisk Podhing. (Fish Pudding.) Pass through a hair sieve one and a half pounds of fresh haddocks, mix with some salt, and one spoonful 470 NORWAY of flour, and two eggs. Then add a pint of whipped cream, half a pint of milk, a little nutmeg, and three eggs well beaten. Mix lightly and pour into a buttered form, and steam for a couple of hours. Serve with a rich lobster sauce. Sole, whiting, ling, hake, halibut, turbot, and cod, are cooked the same as above. Lobster Sauce. Cut a small lobster into slices the size of half-crown pieces, which put into a stewpan ; pound the soft and white parts with an ounce of butter, and rub it through a sieve ; pour ten spoonfuls of melted butter, and two of cream, over the slices in the stewpan, add half a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little cayenne ; warm gently, and when upon the point of boiling add the butter and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream ; shake round over the fire until quite hot, and serve. Plokfisk. (Plucked Fish.) Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream, then add some pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a scraped onion. Boil one pound of small potatoes in their jackets ; when cold, peel and slice them. Remove the skin and bones of tine pound of cod, and cut into small pieces. Mix the creamed butter with the potatoes and fish, and simmer very gently for ten or fifteen minute?. Ling, hake, turbot, sole, haddock, and whiting, may be cooked as above. 47i BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Bentose Fugle r. (Boneless Birds.) Cut some steak in thin slices about one and a half inches broad and three inches long. Spread some well-seasoned forcemeat over them, and put a small piece of pork which has been rubbed in spices and herbs in the middle ; roll up, and tie with a piece of string. Brown some butter and fry a sliced onion in it, then brown the beef olives, after which pour in sufficient brown stock to cover the olives, and simmer for a couple of hours. Strain and reduce the stock, and finish with some brown onion sauce. Brown Onion Sauce. Cut four ounces of good bacon into small dice and fry lightly in a pan. Mince the same weight of shallots, and fry a light brown. Stir in a tablespoonful of flour, which also brown, being careful not to char any of the ingredients. Now add a couple of breakfastcupfuls of brown second stock and a cup of good malt or wine vinegar, and boil for five minutes. Finish with a little pepper and salt, and a small pinch of sugar. When making this sauce you must keep stirring from the time you put in the bacon till you remove the pan from the tire. It must be the consistency of good cream. It too thin, add a little more flour; and if too thick, add a little more water. Strain and serve in a sauce-boat ; or it may be eaten (without straining) to boiled potatoes. 472 NORWAY Stmvet Kalv. (Stewed Veal). Cut some veal into small slices about half an inch thick, season them with salt and pepper, put them on a gridiron, and turn the meat frequently over a moderate fire, or in front of one, till nicely browned. Put them in a stewpan with a couple of fried onions, one peeled clove of garlic, a sliced carrot, and two tablespoonsfuls of vinegar ; cover with clear stock broth, put the lid on the pan, draw it over a slow fire, and simmer for two hours or till the meat is tender. When cooked, put the slices of meat on to a hot dish, strain the gravy over, and serve with vegetables and mashed potato balls. Venison, pork, mutton, lamb, and beef, may be cooked in the same way. Potato Balls. Peel six good-sized potatoes, and boil in water with a teaspoonful of salt. Wh?n nearly cooked, pour water off, and steam till quite dry, after which press them through a potato-masher into a pan ; add six medium- sized anchovies which have been cut in small pieces, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of French mustard, half a teaspoonful of salt, two salt- spoonfuls of white pepper, half a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, two egg yolks, and half an ounce of butter ; place the pan on the fire and keep stirring quickly while cooking for five minutes. Remove the pan from the fire ; when the mixture is cold enough to handle, divide it into twelve parts, roll them into balls on a lightly floured table, breadcrumb them, and fry in boiling 473 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS fat until of a nice golden colour. Drain on a hot dish with a folded napkin, and serve. Stegte Rypk. (Roast Ptarmigan.) Put in the bottom of a pan a sliced carrot and onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a small piece of mace. Clean and truss a brace of ptarmigan, which place in the pan with pieces of bacon on the top of them. Pour in some good milk to half cover the birds. Place the lid on the pan and simmer (not boil) for two hours, adding more milk if the gravy gets too reduced. Strain and thicken it with flour and butter, adding a little semi-glaze; pepper and salt to taste, and boil up once, then pour over the birds. Serve with lettuce and cress dressed with Viking sauce or sauce robin and fried potatoes. Viki.mc; Sauce. Take equal quantities of cored and pared apples, grated horse-radish, and double cream. Cover the apples with white wine or dry cider, and cook till tender, and the liquid reduced to half its bulk. Pass the puree through a sieve, and, when cold, mix in the cream whipped to a froth, and the horse-radish. Cover, and serve in an hour's time. This is a capital sauce for fish and meats, hot or cold. Sauce Rouin. This sauce is used and made the same as above, but mayonnaise sauce is substituted in place of the whipped cream. 474 NORWAY STiKKELsnARRr.Ron. (Gooseberry Fool.) Simmer two pounds of gooseberries, and a quarter of a pound of raspberries till quite cooked. Then strain through a jelly bag, using pressure to take all the juice out. Put the juice in a pot with a quarter of a pound of sugar and three ounces of cornflour, and stir till it comes to the boil. Tour into cups dipped in water, and serve with cream or king's sauce. King's Sauce. Whip the yolks of six eggs, a tumblerful of good cream, half a tumblerful of good milk, and one and a half table- spoonfuls of sugar in a pan standing in a bain marie ; when getting thick, add the grated rind of half a lemon, a glass of sherry and sufficient carmine to make the colour a light pink. Continue whipping till the mix- ture is firm and foaming. Serve in a sauce-boat, or pour it over the fruit. May be served hot or cold with any kind ot pudding. Ribs is Creme. (Red Currant Ice Cream.) Take one pound of juice of the berries pressed through a bag, and put in a pan with one pound of sugar. Boil for five minutes ; skim, and let it get cold ; mix in one pint of cream well whipped, and put in a freezing mould covered with ice for three hours. Sour Rye Bread. In a large basin make a dough of twenty-two ounces of rye flour, fourteen ounces of hot water that you can comfort- 475 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS ably put your hand in, half an ounce of salt, and one ounce of sour dough. After it has been well mixed, sprinkle the top with a little rye flour, cover with a cloth, and stand in a warm place all night. In the morning make a well in the middle of the dough, and pour in seven ounces of luke- warm water and half an ounce of salt. Mix well, then work in gradually three pounds of rye flour, knead very well, cover, and put to rise again in a warm place for two or three hours. Shape into rolls about two feet long and two inches thick, put them on a floured tin and place in a warm place for half an hour or till well risen, and bake in a good sharp oven. Sour Dough. Mix a quarter pound of rye flour with a quarter ounce of yeast diluted in warm water sufficient to make a stiff ish dough. Cover and let it stand in a warm place till it is thoroughly sour, which may be in one, two, or three days. 476 LXIII.— PALESTINE (Arab.) Menu Burjul (Wheat Porridge) Anzei (Boiled Lamb) Kabobs (Grilled Lamb) Surcus Mulbhas (Pea Sweets) (Almond Sweets) 477 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Bukjul. (Wheat Porridge.) Wash and clean some wheat, then steep it for a day in clean water. Drain, and put into boiling water till soft, then dry in the snn till it becomes perfectly hard. Now roughly grind it, so that you can sift the husks from the grain. Then put the grain in a pot with boiling water and boil fill soft ; drain, and place on a dish, and sprinkle salt over. Put some oiive oil in a pan and bring to boiling point ; fry some very finely shred onions to a nice brown in this, and then pour this over the top of the boiled wheat, and stir all round till thoroughly mixed. Eat with soft bread and boiled meats. Soft Bread. A dough is made of flour and water. Knead it well, then take up a portion in the hands and beat it between them till very thin. Have a piece of iron considerably raised in the middle, heat this, and when very hot clap the thin cake on it, and when lightly browned turn quickly and do the other side the same way. Anzi£I. (Boiled Lamb.) Take a young lamb, turn its face to the east, and kill it by cutting the throat. Then, with a sharp-pointed stick, cut the skin and force it through the sinews, so that the killer can blow into it and separate the skin sufficiently to enable it to be torn from the whole body. 478 PALESTINE (Arab) Cut the lrimb into pieces, rub with salt, and place to the one side for twenty minutes or half an hour, then plunge into cold water and wash thoroughly. Put four pounds into a pot and boil in water till the meat is tender, skimming carefully. Take it out and put in another dish. Dip pieces in leben and eat with burjul, olives, cucumbers, radishes, etc. Lebkn. (Curdled Milk.) Curdle milk with rennet in the usual way, and place to the one side till it becomes a little sour, similar to buttermilk. Remove the whey and put the curds in a dish. Kabobs. (Grilled Fillets of Lamb.) Cut thin slices of the lean pieces of lamb, rub with mixed salt and pepper, place on skewers, and toast in front of lire. Eat with bread and salad. Salat. (Salad.) Tear up a lettuce, slice a cucumber, and scrape and slice a handful of long radishes, after which pour some olive oil over, and mix with salt. Eat with kabobs. Suucus. (Pea Sweets.) Boil some sugar in a little water till it is crisp if a little is dropped into cold water ; then colour with cochineal and flavour with a few drops of rose. Grease a slab of slate or tin, over which pour a thin layer. 479 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS When semi-cold, put white peas, which have been soaked, boiled, and then roasted as you would coffee beans, in rows on it, then pour the rest of the sugar over. When cold enough to handle roll into balls, a pea being in the centre of each ball. Mulbhas. (Almond Sweets.) Proceed as above, only colouring with saffron, and using skinned almonds instead of peas, and cut into small pieces. 480 LXIV.— PALESTINE (Hebrew) Menu Helew Lonze (Almond Pudding) Semakh Mashie (Farced Fish) Shouraba Djaaj (Chicken Soup) Djaaj-Salata (Chicken and Salad) Hellew Khokh (Stewed Prunes) Baitenjen Mashie (Stuffed egg-plant) (Anap, Bourdan, Ukercshkal) (Grapes, Oranges, etc.) 481 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Helew Lonze. (Almond Pudding). Pound some blanched almonds with rose water into a fine paste. Put this in a pot with plenty of sugar, and cook thoroughly, stirring all the time. When suffi- ciently cooked (which you will know by the sugar being quite melted and come to the boil), pour on to a platter, and when cold out into shapes, and serve with sponge cakes and cognac. Semakh Mashie. (Farced Fish). Cut some thin fillets of halibut. Spread these with a farce made of pounded fish, crumbs of bread, chopped onions, pepper and salt. Fold them over, smear well with oil or melted butter, cover with fine breadcrumbs, place them in a baking tin (the bottom of which is well covered with oil or melted butter) , and bake in a moderate oven. Baste once when half cooked. Serve with coarse wheaten bread. Cod, ling, hake, turbot, soles, plaice, haddocks, and whiting may be cooked the same way. Shouraba Djaaj. (Chicken Soup). Clean and truss a large fat fowl. Put it in a pot with two gallons of water, adding the legs and feet, which have first been skinned by plotting in boiling water ; put in also some parsley roots, a couple of quartered onions, a sliced carrot, a bunch of fine herbs, pepper and salt. When the fowl is tender remove it ; strain the soup, and serve with crotons. 482 PALESTINE (Hebrew) Crotons. Make a light dough with some very coarse ground wheat (smeed), eggs, and a little salt. Roll it out to a quarter of an inch thick, cut in shapes with a thimble, and plunge into boiling oil. Djaaj. (Chicken.) Dish the chicken of which the soup was made, and serve with wheaten bread and the two under-mentioned salads. Salata Hus wa Flafil. (Lettuce and Pepper Salad.) Incorporate a lettuce torn into small pieces with a couple of thinly sliced green chillies or peppers. Make a dressing of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Salata Heyar wa Bandoora. (Tomato and Cucumber Salad.) Peel and slice a small cucumber very fine, place the slices on a plate and sprinkle with salt, and put pressure on for a couple of hours. Strain off the water, and put the slices in a dish with three or four sliced tomatoes. Dust a little very fine chopped mint over, and use dressing as above. Helew Khokh. (Stewed Prunes.) Soak some prunes in water overnight, and boil very gently for a few minutes in a little water and some sugar. If the prunes are large and juicy, the soaking can be dispensed with. 483 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Baitenjen Mashie. (Stuffed Egg-plant.) Cut open six plants ; scoop out inside. Make a farce with a little boiled rice, finely chopped meat, and a tea- spoonful of scraped onion, and season with pepper and salt. Fill the plants with this mixture and stew very gently in broth till they are tender without losing their shape. Serve with coarse wheaten bread. 484 LXV.— PERSIA Menu Murraba (Candied Fruits) Dasspeech (Smoked Cod) Bareh (Braised Lamb) Bedingan (Stewed Egg-plant) Moorgh (Stewed Fillet of Chicken) Khiyar Ambar (Farced Cucumbers) Yakne (Mutton Broth) Sinjohn (Braised Larks) Taralvase Halva (Honey Cakes) (Saffron Pudding) Skanjeni (Sherbet) Miveh (Fruit) 485 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Dasspeech. (Smoked Cod.) Soak a smoked cod for a night and cut into nice fillets after removing skin and bone. Put the fillets into a shallow buttered tin, pour some melted butter into the dish, cover with paper, and cook in oven for half an hour, and dish. Put some more melted butter into the tin, boil for a minute, pour it over the fish, and serve with boiled rice. Bareh. (Braised Lamb.) Stuff a lamb with rice, onions, plums, herbs, and various spices such as coriander, cumin, sesame, caraway, cloves, and nutmeg. Sew up the carcase, then roast, seeing that the basting is not neglected. Clear the gravy by adding a little water. Serve same in a sauce- boat, not forgetting to give a helping of the stuffing, along with boiled rice and lavach. Lavach. (Bread.) Make a dough of flour and water, and roll out as thin as paper in sheets as large as a towel, and bake quickly on an iron. Bedingan. (Stewed Egg-plant.) Cut the stalks of several egg-plant fruit and a piece about the size of a penny off the top of each, then steep them in salted water to extract the bitter juice. Trim off most of the fat from a piece of mutton sufficient to stuff the egg-plant fruit with, and mince the lean. Mix 486 PERSIA with it two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped onions, half a tablespoonful of finely-chopped mint, half a tea- cupful of the inside of the fruit, two tablespoonfuls of well-washed rice, and a small quantity of saffron, salt, and pepper. Mix the ingredients well. Stuff the fruit with the mixture, replace their tops, but upside down, lay them in a saucepan with a few small mutton bones at the bottom to prevent the fruit sticking to the pan and burning, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, pour in sufficient broth to cover them, and stew over a moderate fire. When the fruit are soft, and the liquor reduced to a thick consistency, dish and pour the gravy over. Serve with boiled rice and bread. Moorgh. (Stewed Fillets of Chicken.) Braise a couple of young fowls along with pieces of ham, carrot, onion, and two tablespoonfuls of oil or butter ; baste them very carefully. Remove the fillets from the breasts and steam them in a saute pan for fifteen minutes with a pinch of saffron, cinnamon, coriander, salt, cayenne, and just sufficient of the strained gravy to cover, seeing that the lid is carefully closed. Ducks, guinea fowl, partridges, pheasants, and pigeons may be cooked the same way. Khiyar Ambar. (Farced Cucumbers.) Cut two cucumbers in one-inch pieces ; blanch very slightly ; empty them. Fill the hollow with a raw mince of mutton fillets mixed up with a little suet, a pinch of 487 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS chopped onion, a little parsley, and some tablespoonfuls of blanched rice. The preparation must be seasoned well with aromatic spices. Cook the cucumbers short of moisture, with a little broth and tomato liquor ; then dish the cucumbers, mix a little gravy into their cooking stock, and let it once boil up ; strain, and pour it over the cucumbers, and serve as a separate dish with boiled rice. Yakne. (Mutton Broth.) Take four or five pounds of mutton shin with two gallons of water and bring to the boil. Skim very carefully. After boiling for a couple of hours, add four breakfastcupfuls of any kind of beans which have been steeped over night, three large onions sliced, a sliced carrot, a shred lettuce, a few sweet herbs, a little savoury spices, also pepper and salt to taste. Simmer till the meat is tender and vegetables cooked. After again removing all the fat, pour the soup into a tureen, adding the vegetables and a good deal of the meat cut up into small pieces. Sinjohn. (Braised Larks.) Split larks or any small birds in two, fry them in butter, after which steam in a thick sauce made of stock to which you have added powdered dried walnuts, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger, sugar, pepper, and salt. Serve with boiled rice. Breasts of pigeons may be substituted, or even the humble sparrow, if plump. 488 PERSIA Taralvase. (Honey Cakes.) Make a soft dough with flour, honey, and rose water, Roll it out a quarter of an inch thick, cut into rounds or squares, which fry in butter. When cooled down, dust with powdered sugar, and serve with a sweet sauce or cream. Hai.va. (Saffron Pudding.) Put a good piece of butter in a pan with some flour till it gets brown but not burnt, pour in a good quantity of honey and a seasoning of saffron. Keep stirring all the time until ready to serve, which must be done quickly. Skanjeni. (Sherbet.) Lemon water ice must be served in glasses and half melted, similar to sorbet without the liqueurs. 489 LXVI.— POLAND Menu Barszcz Krupnik (Meat Soup) (Barley Cream) Raki Nadziewane Szczupak Faszerowany (Farced Crayfish) (Stuffed Pike) Flaki Strazzi (Chopped Tripe) (Beef Croquettes) Zajac w Smietanie (Roast Hare with Cream) Uformowana Kapusta (Timbale of Cabbage) Tort z razowege chleba Faworki Mazurek (Brown Bread Cake) (Love Knots) (Almond Tart) Lody Tryflane (Truffle Ice) Owocy (Fruit) 49° POLAND Barszcz. (Meat Soup.) Put into a stockpot eighteen or twenty ounces of brisket of beef ; cover well, half with broth and half with sour juice of beetroot ; set the stockpot on the fire, skim the liquid, and at the first bubbling remove it to the corner of the stove. After the lapse of an hour and a half add to this meat a knuckle of veal, a well- cleansed duck (previously blanched in water), half a pound of lean bacon also blanched, two carrots, parsley and celery roots, an onion, and some whole spice. Two hours afterwards plunge into the broth four smoked sausages ; continue a moderate ebullition. Take the meat out as soon as done, then pass the liquid through a sieve, skimming its fat. Clarify with whites of eggs mixed with a little cold water and slightly whipped. The broth being clear pass it through a napkin. This done, it should be of a rose colour ; keep it warm on the corner of the stove. A quarter of an hour previous to serving take up the fillets of the duck and pare and cut them in neat pieces ; slice in a slanting direction the sausages ; cut in long squares the lean bacon and brisket of beef. Put all these garnishes into the tureen, with a few tablespoonfuls of cooked beetroots cut in thin strips, as well as two dozen little dumplings, about the size of a walnut, formed with a hash of beef and mushrooms covered with a good thin pastry and boiled in salted water. Pour the consomme over these garnishes. If the soup should have lost its fine rose colour it may be helped with a few spoonfuls of raw but filtered beetroot juice, or a few drops of carmine. 491 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Krupnik. (Barley Cream.) Take about one pound meat, the same weight of a knuckle of veal, and some chicken bones, to a quart of cold water. Boil up, skim, add a few carrots and parsley roots cut into very fine slips ; boil slowly for three hours and skim very carefully. Put half a pound of pearl barley into a stewpan with one quart of boiling water, a little salt, and butter the size of an egg ; cover the stewpan, bring the liquid to ebullition, and remove it back, stirring the barley from time to time. One hour after, work it carefully with a wooden spoon for five or six minutes in order to bruise it. Moisten by degrees with three pints of the stock. Let the liquid boil for one hour at the side of the fire ; pass it first through the sieve, and afterwards through the tammy. Pour the cream into a stewpan, let it boil up, add to it a little sugar, also a few potatoes cooked and cut in slices. Season with pepper and salt. Cut the stock meat into pieces and serve in the tureen with the soup. Before serving put a small spoonful of finely-chopped parsley into the tureen. Raki Nadziewane. (Farced Crayfish.) Thirty crayfish well washed and boiled. Carefully take the meat out of shells without destroying them ; mince the meat fine, and mix with half a pint of boiled rice, a little butter, some finely-minced fennel, pepper and salt to taste. Add when cool three whole eggs ; 492 POLAND mix well, and fill the shells of the crayfish, which put into a saucepan, cover with sour cream, and stew covered for ten minutes. When serving add to the gravy a few breadcrumbs and a teaspoonful of chopped fennel. Serve sauce separately. Szczupak Faszerowany. (Stuffed Pike.) Take a four-lb. or five-lb. pike; scale, cut off head, and very carefully skin the fish, keeping the skin as whole as possible ; cut all the meat off the bones, chop, and put through a mincing machine. Take four small rolls which have been soaked in milk, grate two onions, one parsley root, half a carrot, and a bit of celery ; mix all with the meat. Add a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a quarter pound fresh butter ; chop all together once more. If too stiff add a little milk. Stuff the skin with this mixture, which secure with thread, making it as good a shape as possible. Put it in a fish kettle with plenty of parsley, carrots, &c. Cut the carrots and turnips into dice and stars (use as decorations when serving), and pour on cold water. Cover and stew slowly for an hour. Serve with horse-radish sauce, with an extra spoonful of wine vinegar added to it. Flaki. (Chopped Tripe.) Get two pounds of well-cleaned tripe and cut in quarter-inch squares, and put in a pot with plenty of water. Bring to the boil and skim very carefully. Add some cold water and skim again till no more scum 493 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS rises. Have ready another pot of two pints of boiling brown stock, in which plunge the pieces of tripe, adding half a pound of streaky bacon cut in one-inch squares, a calf's foot boned and cut like the bacon, a bunch of fine herbs, three whole onions, three cloves, a teacupful of brandy, pepper and salt. Bring to the boil and remove to side of fire, and simmer till tender. It will take five or six hours. Half an hour before being finished, add forcemeat balls made about the size of large hazel nuts. Remove the onions and fine herbs. Strain the sauce and thicken with a little browned flour and stock cullis. Put meats on a dish, pour the sauce over, and then finish by sprinkling over the top some grated parmesan cheese, powdered ginger and marjoram, and serve with saute potatoes. Stock Cullis. Cullis is made in several ways, but this is reputed the best, and is the most in vogue among all those who have skill in cookery. Cut a leg of veal in pieces the bigness of your fist, and place them in a stewpan with a pound of lean ham cut in slices ; cover these with a couple of carrots and onions cut in quarters. Put the lid on the pan, stew softly at first to extract the juices, and then brown on all sides, taking care not to burn them. When of a good brown colour, pour in four quarts of broth made of beef or other meats, season with a little sweet basil, some cloves, mace, a point of garlic, a pared lemon cut into 494 POLAND slices, and some mushrooms. Brown a handful of flour in a good lump of butter and moisten it with a little of the stock, then pour it very slowly into the pan, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon. Stew softly for three hours, being careful to skim off the fat. Put in a couple of glasses of champagne or other white wine, taking care to keep your cullis very thin,; clarify it after skimming the fat well off. To clarify, put the pan (closely covered) on a sharp fire till the contents boil over, then uncover and take off all the fat that is round the pan ; wipe the lid and put it on again. If by chance your cullis is too pale, put in as much beef or veal gravy as will make it of a gold colour. When your cullis is done, which should be in another hour, take out the meats, etc., and strain it through a tammy cloth. This cullis may be used to cover fowls, put in pies, terrines, and all sorts of ragouts. It should be of the same consistency as a thickish cream. Strazzi. (Beef Croquettes.) Boil three ounces of buckwheat-groats (kascha) with broth, salt, and butter, but short of moisture so as to get it fairly stiff. When ready, take it off the fire, season, and finish with a few tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs. Pare a pound of beef fillet taken from the side near the head. Chop the meat, season, divide it in two, then flatten it with the blade of a knife into a thin strip of three inches width. On this strip spread a layer of the 495 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS previously prepared " kascha," then transversely divide the strip in pieces two inches long, roll these pieces up about themselves in such a manner that the strip of meat encloses the kascha. Bind the strazzi with thread, range them one beside the other into a flat buttered stewpan, and sprinkle with a pinch of onion chopped fine. Set the stewpan on the fire, let strazzi fry slightly, add two tablespoonfuls of stock, cover the stewpan, and finish cooking on a very mild fire, with hot embers on the lid of the stewpan. At serving-time dish the strazzi, mix into their cooking stock a little white wine and a little thin glaze, which reduce till it be succulent ; pass it through a sieve, finish with a little chopped parsley, and pour it over the strazzi. Serve with mashed potatoes. Zajac w Smietanie. (Roast Hare with Cream.) Take a fat hare which has been hung from four to seven days, skin, and draw it ; slip off the shoulders, and cut off the forepart to the beginning of the loins ; trim the skin away from the fillets and thighs, and lard them with bacon ; bone the thick part of the thighs so as to bring them close together, securing with string, and running them through with a wooden skewer. Make a stuffing of half a pound of beef suet or six ounces of marrow, some breadcrumbs equal in bulk but not in weight to the suet or marrow, a small quantity of finely- chopped parsley and eschalot, a boned anchovy minced small, a teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, half a teaspoon- 496 fOLANt) ful each of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and sweet herbs, all pounded very smoothly, with salt and pepper to taste. Add the liver parboiled and grated if untainted. Bind the farce with the yolk of an egg, and a very little claret soaked in the crumbs. Fill the hare with this and sew it up; then put it on a roasting pan, sprinkle it with salt, pour over six ounces of melted butter, and place in a hot oven. Roast for twenty minutes, basting very frequently with the gravy, then add a pint of good thick sour milk, and finish cooking, being careful to keep basting till quite finished. When done, remove the hare on to a dish with a well for the gravy. Pour into the roasting pan half a pint of double cream, and the same quantity of well-seasoned demi-glaze or thinned partridge cullis, which boil, stirring all the time with a spoon until reduced and thickened like a light sauce. Strain and pour over the hare, and serve with dumplings. Dumplings. Take four ounces of butter and beat to a cream, then work in separately two whole eggs and the yolks of other two. Add a little nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of very finely-minced parsley, a little salt, and four heaped-up tablespoonfuls of best flour. With a wooden spoon beat all together very thoroughly for at least five minutes. Have a large pot of boiling water well salted, dip a spoon into water and lift a spoonful of batter, which drop into the pot. Continue doing this till all is finished ; see that the water never ceases to boil. When the dump- lings rise to the surface continue the boiling for other 497 21 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS five minutes, or till they are thoroughly cooked, which you can see by testing one. Take them out with a skimmer and keep them hot. What are left over may be lightly fried in butter and served with any kinds of meats. Uformowana Kapusta. (Timbale of Cabbage.) Take a large cabbage with a good heart and strip it of its tender leaves one by one ; wash these well, and put them in hot salted water for fifteen minutes to blanch ; drain, and lay them on a cloth. Fry two chopped onions, but do not let them colour ; then chop up the cabbage with a little seasoning, put it in the pan with the onions, and fry over a slow fire. When done, take them off and let them get nearly cold ; then mix up with an equal amount of sausage-meat one teacupful of bread- crumbs, two or three whipped eggs, and one pinch of chopped parsley. Place some thin slices of bacon at the bottom and round the sides of a large timbale mould, and against these put some of the whole leaves, one over- lapping another, so as to have no space left ; then put a layer of the forcemeat, then another layer of cabbage leaves, and so on alternately till the mould is full. Cover the top with bacon, and put the mould into a moderate oven for an hour and a half. Remove the fat from the mould, turn out the timbale on to a dish, take the bacon from the top, and pour over a little sharp sauce. Sharp Sauce. To a teacupful of brown stock add a skinned tomato, the juice of half a small onion, the juice of half a lemon, 498 POLAND a good pinch of cayenne, and half a tablespoonful of browned flour rolled in butter. Mix all together and boil for ten minutes. Tort z Razowege Chleba. (Brown Bread Cake.) Dry half a pound of brown bread in the oven, grind to powder, run through a sieve, and moisten with good rum. Take a quarter pound of almonds, ground to powder, with a little soft sugar. Mix into a paste the yolks of eight eggs with a half a pound of soft sugar, a little lemon and orange peel, a pinch of powdered cinna- mon, and half a powdered clove. Mix bread, almonds, and paste, two ounces of flour, one ounce powdered chocolate, and the whites of six eggs. Put the whole into a buttered tin and bake in a hot oven. Serve with whipped cream ; or when it is cold it can be covered with icing sugar flavoured with chocolate, and decorated with preserved fruits. Faworki. (Love Knots.) To one pound flour take four whole eggs, two ounces fresh butter, two ounces powdered sugar, small cup of cream, and a glass of kummel. Knead thoroughly, roll out very thin, and cut into strips about four inches long and one and a half broad ; make a slit in the centre of each and put one end through, making them into a sort of knot. Fry in hot lard, drain and cover with powdered sugar. Can be served with fresh fruit and cream. 499 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS KUMMEL. Mix with six pints of spirit (at least 62 over proof) and one pint of brandy (if colourless) the following oils : — Oil of caraway, 1 drachm ; oil of aniseed, 5 drops ; oil of fennel, 2 drops ; oil of lemon, 2 drops ; oil of nut- meg, 1 drop. Boil two and a half pounds of sugar in one gallon of water. Skim carefully, and when cold add to the spirit and oils. Mix well and filter till quite clear. Bottle and keep for two years. Mazurek. (Almond Tart.) Make a " paste royal " by putting four ounces of butter into a stewpan with a large glassful of water, two ounces of beet sugar, and a bit of lemon peel. When the butter is nearly melted shake some dry flour to it through a fine sieve. Take out the lemon peel, and with your hand put in as much more flour as the boiling liquid will take, stirring briskly with a wooden spoon till it comes easily from the sides of the stewpan. Put it in another pan, let it cool, break an egg into it, and stir it well to mix, add afterwards three or four eggs till the paste becomes tenacious and ropy. Roll out very thin and cut some rounds with a cutter about two or three inches in diameter, on which put a half-inch layer of almond paste, and fire in a slow oven. When cold, decorate the top of each with whipped cream. Almond Paste. Skin and pound to a pulp one pound of sweet almonds, adding two teaspoonfuls of orange flour water to prevent 500 POLAND oiling. Stir in a pound of fine castor sugar, a few drops of lemon essence, and make into a paste with the yolks of twelve eggs. Lody Tryflane. (Truffle Ice.) Clean and peel four fresh black truffles ; let their trimmings infuse in five gills of boiling milk ; ten minutes after pass the infusion through a fine sieve, and with it six yolks of eggs and ten ounces of sugar ; stir on the fire till it thickens. When cooled, freeze it in an ice- machine. Mince the truffles and plunge them into a little boiling syrup ; immediately take the stewpan off the fire, and let the truffles cool in the syrup ; then drain, pound, and pass them through a sieve. Mix the syrup in this " puree,'' which dilute with a little of the pre- viously prepared ice, thus cooling it effectually. Pour it gradually into the ice, mixing thoroughly, and freeze again till quite firm. When about to serve, dish it in a rock shape on a folded napkin. If a pint of whipped cream is added before the second freezing, the ice will be much enhanced. 501 LXVII.— PORTUGAL Menu Desenjaatioos (Appetisers) Sopa Secca (Dry Soup) Carne Cosida com Hortalica (Boiled Beef, Vegetables, etc.) Arroz do Forno (Savoury Rice) Pescada Cosida (Boiled Hake) Leitao assado Frangos assados na Grelha (Fillet of Pork in Garlic) (Stewed Fowls) Vitella assada (Roast Veal) Arroz doce Rabanadas Sonhos (Sweet Rice) (Bread Fritters) (Angel's Dreams) Caremelo Copardo (Caramel Cream) Salada de Alface e Queijo (Salad and Cheese) Fructa (Fruit) 502 PORTUGAL Sopa Secca. (Dry Soup.) Take a good large piece of the shin of beef, also ribs, a couple of pigs' ears, and any rough bones. Boil for several hours, skimming very carefully. Let it get cold, and remove the fat. Put on again with some cleaned vegetables of all kinds, a couple of chickens, a bit of ham, and a nice juicy bit of meat cut in pieces, a sliced sausage, and pepper and salt to taste. When all cooked, remove the meat and vegetables (place these neatly on a dish and keep warm, so that they may be eaten afterwards). Strain the stock into another pot, along with some slices of bread and a bunch of sweet herbs in A'hich mint is very pronounced. Boil quickly for ten minutes ; remove the herbs, and put the stock and bread into a wide tureen, which place in the oven till browned. If the dinner is for a small party, the sopa secca ought to be put into small bowls, and, after it is browned, served in the bowls. Carnk Cosida com Hortalica. (Boiled Beef, Vegetables, etc.) Take the meats and vegetables in which the sopa secca has been made, and arrange them neatly on a dish ; reduce some of the stock to a semi-glaze, and pour over. Arroz no Forno. (Savoury Rice.) Take half a pint of stock cullis, and put into it a little chopped parsley, thyme, and a tomato. Boil for ten minutes, then strain it into another pot, and add three 5°3 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS teacupfuls of Italian cullis, one teacupful of rice which has been thoroughly washed and dried, a teaspoonftil of lemon juice, salt and pepper ; boil for three minutes. Pour into a baking dish and put into a hot oven to finish cooking. When sufficiently cooked, the rice will have absorbed all the liquid and have formed a brown crust on top. Good gravies and sauces can take the place of cullis. Pescada Cosida. (Boiled Hake.) Cut a large hake into nicely shaped pieces, make some good stock with the bones and odd bits, adding a couple of onions cut in quarters, a large carrot, a celery root, a large bunch of parsley, some pepper, salt, and fine herbs ; strain and reduce it. riace the fish in this, along with some quartered peaches, two or three halved tomatoes, some cooked chick beans (small white ones will do), and stew gently. When cooked, place the fish on a dish, and surround with the beans, tomatoes, onions, carrot in neat pieces, the peaches, and some hard-boiled eggs cut in four. Pour a little of the cleared stock over, reduce the rest of the stock, and serve in a separate sauce-boat, along with potatoes. Cod, ling, halibut, and turbot may be cooked the same way. Leitao assado. (Fillet of Pork in Garlic.) Cut some lean pork into pieces about the size of a five-shilling piece ; rub them with salt, and pack in a deep earthenware jar ; bruise a few cloves of garlic, which spread on the pork, along with some whole pepper, 5°4 PORTUGAL bay leaves, and fresh herbs ; and cover with cold vinegar ; press it down with a weight. After lying for a week, take as much as you want, drain it from the vinegar, and fry it in a frying-pan without any fat, turning frequently and watching very carefully in case of burn- ing. They will take an hour to fry and colour properly. Serve each piece on a croton along with slices of orange. Francos assados na Grelha. (Stewed Fowls.) Clean a fowl, open the back from one end to the other with a sharp knife, having previously cut the feet off at the second joint ; make an incision in the skin, and pass the bone through to fix it internally; lay the fowl on the table breast down, beat it as flat as possible with a chopper, take out the breast bone, and also the rough part of the interior of the back, especially if a large or old fowl ; after you have it in a nice shape, season all over with a teaspoonful of salt, half the same cpiantity of pepper, and a small ground onion; put it on a grid- iron over a slow fire, turning it every five minutes until done. Put it very hot in the centre of a dish. Garnish with cut gherkins, beetroot, and olives ; [pour a cold sharp sauce on these ; thus the fowl is hot and the sauce cold. Sharp Sauce. (Cold.) Make a sauce by boiling two spoonfuls of Chili vinegar, two of Harvey's sauce, two of catsup, one of chopped eschalot, ten of plain melted butter, and a teaspoonful of browned flour to just amalgamate the butter, etc., and allow to get cold. 5°5 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Vitklla assada. (Roast Veal.) Bone a shoulder of veal and stuff with a farce made of half a pound of veal and half a pound of minced ham, a small onion minced, a few sprigs of parsley minced, an ounce of capers, a little grated lemon peel, a pinch of finely pounded thyme, a teacupful of breadcrumbs, a crushed clove of garlic pounded fine, salt and pepper, and the yolk of three eggs. After stuffing sew up the shoulder; put it in a deep pan with slices of fat bacon under and over it. Brown it well ; then put in a sliced carrot, an onion stuck with six cloves, and a pint of good white stock. Baste well and thoroughly. Skim and drain the gravy, heat up with the juice of half a lemon and a wine- glassful of port. Arkoz dock. (Sweet .Rice.) Boil in a pint of water half a pound of rice well washed and dried. When the water has evaporated add three pints of milk, all sweetened to taste. Boil again till no liquid is left, but be careful of charring. Remove the pan from the fire, and while still hot (but off the boil) stir in the beaten yolks of six eggs, and two tablespoon- fuls of orange flower water. Serve on a hot flat dish, and cover with finely ground cinnamon. Rabanauas. (Bread Fritters.) Cut some rounds of bread half an inch thick, soak them in milk. After well soaked, dip them into beaten eggs, seeing that both sides are well covered, and fry 506 PORTUGAL in butter a golden brown. Pound some almonds very fine, and mix with heated honey, which pour over the fritters. Sonhos. (Angel's Dreams.) Half a pint of water, two ounces of butter, one dessert- spoonful of white sugar, three or four eggs, fat to fry, Grand Manier liqueur to flavour, and about half a pound of flour. Boil the butter, sugar, and water, and stir in enough flour to make the mixture stiff enough to leave the sides of the saucepan. When cooked, remove the pan from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs and beat well. When cold, stir in the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and fry in spoonfuls in very hot fat or oil. Serve immediately with sifted sugar A split can be cut in each, and a piece of jelly inserted. Cheese is some- times put in. In that case cayenne pepper is substituted for the sugar. Grand Manikr. Tincture of fresh orange peel, one ounce ; tincture of fresh Tangerine peel, one ounce ; oil of melon, two drams ; oil of orange, two drams ; oil of aniseed, four drops. Mix tinctures and oils with eighteen ounces of spirit 62 overproof ; add same quantity of syrup (a little carmine or sugar browning is added according to colour desired) ; then filter till clear. 5°7 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Caramelo Copardo. (Caramel Cream.) Oil a shape lightly but thoroughly. Sprinkle a light coloured caramel inside the shape. Shake well, so that the bottom and sides are all covered and glazed. Stand on ice. Beat lightly three yolks of eggs and the white of one, add a dessertspoonful of rice flour, and the same quantity of orange flour water, and mix all well together. Now add half a pint of warm milk and a teacupful of good cream, mix well and pour into the mould. Steam in a bain marie till it sets, which will be in a little over an hour. Turn out and pour some caramel sauce over. Caramel Sauce. Put eight ounces of sugar to two tablespoonfuls of water in a pan and fry till a light golden yellow, not brown. Salada Sala. (Salad.) Clean thoroughly a cos lettuce, tear the leaves rather larger than in a French salad, and put in a salad bowl. Mix some finely chopped chervil, tarragon, and about half the quantity of burnet, and some chives. Make a dressing of one tablespoonful each of water and white wine vinegar, some pepper and salt. Mix the dressing with the lettuce, then strew on the top the finely minced herbs and chives. Must serve at once with cheese. 508 LXVIII.— ROUMANIA Menu Supa de Zarzavat (Soup Carmine) Calcan Prajit (Baked Turbot) Gisca Fripta (Baked Goose) Laptuci fierte la tingire Castraveti (Stewed Lettuces and Pickled Cucumbers) Momile cu Orez (Stewed Sweetbreads with Rice) Muschi de rgpure (Fillets of Hare) Mamaliga cu Crauza (Cheese Polenta) Pateu de paun Buohirca cu cap negru (Peacock cakes) (Steamed Pudding) Prajituri (Furmenty) Fructe-diverse (Fruit) S09 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Supa de Zarzavat. (Soup Carmine.) Put eight ounces of polenta (which has been soaked till soft) into two quarts of water, then add two ounces of butter and a pinch of carbonate of soda, and let the whole boil up. Slice thinly and cut in small pieces a beetroot, two or three tomatoes, two medium-sized onions, a small quantity of parsnip or celery, and boil slowly for two and a half hours. Strain, and rub as much through a sieve as possible ; add this to the polenta and the water it was boiled in. Season with paprica pepper and salt, heat up, and serve. If the colour is not very rich add some cochineal. Calcan Prajit. (Baked Turbot.) Clean and wash a small turbot ; thickly butter a shallow baking dish ; place some slices of onion at the bottom, and lay the fish on them. Put in a few sliced mushrooms, a couple of bay leaves, two or three cloves, salt and pepper to taste. Moisten to height with an equal quantity of white wine and water. Bake in a moderate oven for half an hour, basting occasionally. When the fish is cooked, place it on a dish, strain the liquor, which thicken with a brown Financiare sauce seasoned with a little nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire until boiling, then move to the side of the fire, and stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs and the strained juice of half a lemon. Pour over the fish and serve. ROUMANIA Brown Financiare Sauce. Cook for five minutes in a pan two glasses of orange juice, the yellow rind of half an orange, half an ounce of butter, same quantity of glaze, half a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms (fresh), and half a teaspoonful of sugar, after which add half a tumblerful (quarter of a pint) of brown stock ; boil till it adheres to the spoon, and'strain through a fine sieve. Gasca Fripta. (Baked Goose.) Select a small fat goose ; draw, singe, and wipe inside with a cloth. Pare and core four cooking apples, put them in a basin with one ounce each of sultana raisins and currants (washed with warm water and wiped dry in a cloth). Season with a little finely- powdered cinnamon ; add three tablespoonfuls of bread- crumbs, a pinch of garlic, a little salt, and one egg. Mix these, stuff the goose with it, sew up the gap, truss the bird, and put on the baking dish with a little water. Rub over well with butter, cover with a piece of thick paper, place it in the oven (basting frequently), and bake for two hours. Finely chop half a red cabbage, put it in an enamelled saucepan with a little salt and broth, set it on the fire, and cook gently, taking care to keep it quite firm. When about three parts done, add half a dozen small pork sausages slightly fried in goose fat, and when quite done pour a little vinegar over it. Re- move the string and paper from the goose, put it on an oval dish, and garnish with the cabbage, sausages, and potato pyramids. Stir in a little broth to the stock, 5ii BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS boil for a couple of minutes, strain it, skim off the fat, and serve in a sauceboat. Laptuci fierte la tingire Castraveti. (Stewed Lettuces and Pickled Cucumbers). Trim and wash half a dozen small heads of cabbage lettuce, removing all outside leaves. Plunge them into quickly boiling salted water, and parboil them. Drain off the hot water, and put them into cold water ; drain this off also, and dry the heads on a cloth. Line a sauce- pan with slices of bacon, put in the parboiled lettuces together with an onion cut in slices, a bunch of sweet herbs and spices, pepper and salt to taste. Add a small quantity of stock and white wine, and let them stew gently for an hour. Cut half a dozen slices of bread, rather less than half an inch thick, about the size of a mutton cutlet and the shape of a pear, and fry them in butter a light brown. Pour a little thick, nicely flavoured gravy on a dish, arrange the pieces of fried bread on it, and lay carefully and neatly on each piece of bread one of the heads of lettuce, and serve at once with pickled cucumbers. Momile cu Orez. (Stewed Sweetbreads with Rice.) Wash the sweetbreads, parboil, plump in cold water, and remove all fat. Put them in a saucepan over the fire with parsley and enough white stock to cover, and stew gently for twenty-five or thirty minutes. Pour cucumber sauce over, and serve young peas or French beans with them. 5*2 ROUMANIA Cucumber Sauce. Strain the above liquor (same quantity of veal stock would do). Add a seasoning of white pepper, salt, and a small quantity of mace ; thicken the gravy with butter and flour ; and add a little cream and cucumber ketchup. Muschi de Repure. (Fillets of Hare). Pare half a dozen hare fillets of the shape of a large chicken fillet ; season them with a good dash of paprica pepper and salt ; let them marinade in a kitchen basin with a little vinegar for several hours. A few minutes previous to serving drain the fillets on a cloth, and fry in clarified butter. Drain the butter, and then pour over the fillets a little dissolved meat glaze ; dish them in a circular order, alternating each of the fillets with a crouton of bread fried in butter ; mask them with the following sauce. Game Sauce. Put into a small saucepan one tablespoonful of pow- dered sugar ; stir it with a wooden spoon until it is of a light brown colour, and moisten it with a quarter of a glass of good vinegar ; reduce the vinegar till the sugar is dissolved and the liquid diminished one half; stir in double its volume of brown sauce, boil for several minutes ; then mix with it a tablespoonful of Smyrna raisins or currants softened in warm water; as well as a small handful of chopped dried almonds. Si3 2K BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Glaze. Procure a knuckle of veal about six pounds in weight (which cut into pieces about the size of an egg), a pound of lean beef, and half a pound of lean ham or bacon, rub a quarter of a pound of butter upon the bottom of stewpan (capable of holding two gallons), into which put the three meats, with half a pint of water, three middle-sized onions (with two cloves in each), one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery, all sliced ; put the cover upon the stewpan, place over a sharp fire, occasionally stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze, which will lightly adhere to the spoon. Fill up the stewpan with cold water, and when upon the point of boiling draw it to the corner of the fire, where it must gently simmer for three hours, carefully skimming off every particle of grease and scum. Pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, then fill the stewpan up a second time with hot water, and boil the meats, etc., four hours longer, to obtain all the succulence ; pass it through a cloth the same as the first ; then pour both stocks into a large stewpan, set it over the fire, and let it boil as fast as possible, leaving a large spoon in to stir occasionally and prevent its boiling over. When reduced to about three pints, pour it into a smaller stew- pan, set again to boil at the corner, skimming well if required ; when reduced to a quart, place it over the fire, well stirring with a spoon (wooden) until forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) of a fine yellowish brown colour. Pour it into a basin, or, 514 ROUMANIA if for keeping any time, into a long bladder, from which cut a slice and use when wanted. Mamaliga cu Crauza. (Cheese Polenta.) Mix some polenta with boiling water, and add a little salt. Move the pan to the side of the fire and boil gently till cooked (about fifteen to twent y minutes) . Then turn the polenta on to a dish till cold, after which cut in slices, and trim the pieces to a uniform size and shape. Butter a pie-dish and put in the polenta in layers with grated cheese, salt, and a small quantity of pepper strewn over each layer. Strew a thick coating of cheese on top, and brown in a quick oven. Pateu de paun. (Peacock Cakes). Make a good sponge cake of six eggs, and bake in a moderate oven in a shallow tin. When cold, cut rounds about the size of a five-shilling piece, and two inches thick. Cut out the most of the centre, which fill up with clear jelly in which there is a mixture of finely-chopped pistachio nuts, chopped stoned raisins, and a small quan- tity of chopped mixed peels. Pour over each cake a little thin custard flavoured with Malaga wine, and decorate tops with a little whipped cream. Prajituri (Furmenty.) Put the required quantity of hulled wheat in a sauce- pan with plenty of water, and boil it until the grains begin to crack, skimming off with a wooden spoon any 5*5 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS pulp that may rise to the top, and put it in a basin. Pour more water in with the grains, continue boiling them, and skim until all the goodness has been extracted. Strain all that has been left of the grains through a fine hair sieve. Put one quart of the pulp into a saucepan with one teacupful of well-washed currants and one breakfastcupful of sugar syrup ; stir the mixture over the fire till it begins to boil, then flavour it with rose- water and musk in small quantities, stirring for two or three minutes longer. Blanch, skin, and cut into shreds two ounces each of almonds and pistachios. Turn the mixture on to a dish and leave till cold. Then arrange the almonds and pistachios tastefully over it, and serve with almond sauce. Almond Sauce. Blanch and skin half a dozen bitter and two ounces of sweet almonds ; pound in a mortar to a smooth paste, putting in a little rose water to assist the pounding. Put the paste into a pan along with the yolks of four eggs and a tumblerful of cream. Put the pan in a bain- marie and beat till all is perfectly smooth. Pour over the pudding or serve in a sauce-boat. Buohirca cu cap negru. (Steamed Pudding.) Cut two penny French rolls into slices, butter them, and remove the crusts. Brush the inside of a quart mould with warm butter, ornament it inside with stoned raisins, then lay in the slices of buttered roll. Blanch and peel fifteen or sixteen sweet almonds, and mince them 5i6 ROUMANIA finely. Mix with them, about one tablespoonful of finely- minced citron -peel, and sprinkle these over the roll. Make a rich custard, flavoured with curacoa, and sweeten to taste, and pour it carefully in with the other ingredients, but not quite filling the mould, as room must be allowed for swelling. Stand the mould in a saucepan with boiling water to half its height, and steam for an hour and a half. When cooked, turn it on to a hot dish. Serve with "Rita" sauce. Rita Sauce. Curacoa. Whisk briskly a tablespoonful of fine sugar, one egg, and a glass of hock in a pan standing in a bainmarie. When it comes to be a good stiff froth, pour over the pudding, or serve in sauce-boat. Boil a pound of sugar in a quart of water, being sure to remove any scum. When cold, add a quart of spirits (sixty-two overproof), in which one hundred and twenty drops of oil of bitter orange have been mixed, and strain through blotting paper till clear. 5*7 LXIX.— RUSSIA Menu Zakouski (Appetisers) Krapivniya Schtschi (Nettle Soup). Rasvarennaya Riba Coulebiaka (Stewed Fish) (Fish Pie) Kopt chonnoye Kabannoe Myasso (Roast Wild Boar) Vireska e Sadovy Tzikory (Fillet of Beef and Endive) Cutlets iz Tzipliat e olady e Artischoki (Chicken and Pancake Croquettes and Artichokes) Piglitza Varennaya s Saladom (Braised Lapwings and Salad) Ananasny Besdeloushka (Pine-apple Souffle) Slivotchny Tort Vinnoy Krem (Cream Tart) (Wine Cream) Brussnit chnce Morojennoe (Cranberry Ice Cream) Froukty (Fruit) RUSSIA Zakouski. (Appetisers.) The dishes are generally composed of sandwiches (small and neat) prepared with smoked salmon, boiled anchovies, caviare, chopped hard-boiled eggs, etc. Be- sides these there are different kinds of pickled fish, small pieces of lobster or crayfish tails, little savoury tartlets, pickles, sour and salted cucumbers, thin slices of smoked sausages, and smoked breast of goose, etc. Different kinds of liqueurs and spirits are also served. These are all laid out on a buffet or side table, and are partaken of a few minutes before sitting down to dinner. Krapivniya Schtschi. (Nettle Soup.) Take equal quantities of young nettles, spinach, and sour sorrel. Wash them in several waters, and boil with a little salt until soft, then rub through a coarse wire sieve. Slice an onion thinly, and cut it into lengths, fry these in butter, and when taking colour put in the previously pre- pared puree. Fry all together for a few minutes, stirring, mixing, and dusting occasionally with flour from a dredger. Transfer this when nicely cooked, without being burned, into a large saucepan, and gradually moisten it with two quarts of beef broth. Let this boil up, move it to one side, so that it will continue to simmer, and then drop in six smoked sausages, either whole or cut into slices. Boil slowly for an hour, skim off the fat, and just before serving stir in one breakfastcupful of sour cream. With this soup it is usual to serve halves of hard-boiled eggs, which may be either plain, stuffed, or fried. 5 J 9 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Rasvarennaya Riba. (Stewed Fish.) Make a highly-seasoned fish or chicken broth, flavoured with nutmeg and cleared with the white of an egg before straining. Into this put a sterlet (a carp or piece of sturgeon will do) cut up into suitable pieces, pour in a little cold water, and cook over a moderate fire until the fish is done, taking care to remove any scum that rises. Turn the whole into a pan, in which it is to be stewed, having placed slices of lemon (without pips or peel) at the bottom, pour in champagne (cider will do) ; boil up once more, strain, then clear the sauce with caviare or the white of an egg. Add some chopped parsley or fennel, and pour over the fish or serve in a separate sauce-boat. Coulebiaka. (Fish Pie.) Take out the fillets of two small trout, and of eight small perch ; season with pepper and salt, add one dozen crayfish tails, and keep them on ice. With a quarter pound of pike, or whiting flesh, prepare some quenelle forcemeat ; when passed through a sieve, put it into a stewpan, and add two ounces of butter ; season, and close the stewpan hermetically, keeping it at the entrance of the oven for ten minutes, then remove back, and let it cool. Coulebiaca Paste. Dilute about a quarter of an ounce of good yeast with a tablespoonful of warm milk ; pass the liquid through 520 RUSSIA a sieve into a kitchen basin, and prepare a leaven by introducing as much flour as it can absorb, keeping the paste soft. Cover, and put it on to a warm place to rise. When ready introduce gradually three ounces of flour, two ounces of butter scarcely melted, a little milk, and two whole eggs. Work the paste to give it a little consistency, gather it up, cover it, and let it rise again previous to using it. Spread on a floured napkin a flat of coulebiaca paste, more long than wide, mask the centre of this flat with a layer of prepared forcemeat, on which place a layer of cold boiled rice. On this rice put the fillets of fish in layers, intermixing each layer with fine herbs cooked, and thicken with a little cold sauce. Mask the fish with the remainder of the forcemeat, then raise the paste over the preparation, solder it carefully, and turn the pie out on to a baking sheet. Let the paste rise in a warm temperature. Brush over with melted butter, then sprinkle over a handful of breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Send up separately a boatful of brown sauce reduced with white wine. Brown Sauce. Rub two ounces of butter over the bottom of a stew- pan ; peel two or three large onions, cut them in thick slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal (half veal and beef can be used ; or if no veal all beef), all meat, or three pounds if with bone, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon 5 21 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS cut small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt, two bay leaves, a gill of water ; set it on a brisk fire, let it remain ten minutes, then stir it well round, subdue the fire, let it remain a few minutes longer, and stir now and then till it has a nice brown colour ; fill your pan with three quarts of water ; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the lid three parts on the saucepan ; when boiling, skim off the fat ; after one hour or one hour and a half simmering, pass it through a sieve into a basin. Kopt chonnoye Kabannoe Myasso. (Roast Wild Boar.) Choose the saddle or haunch of a young wild boar, remove the swarth, put the meat in a kitchen basin, moisten nearly to height with cooked pickle consisting of oil, red wine, vinegar, chopped onions, bay leaves, pepper and salt, and steep for two days. Drain the meat, sponge well, place it in a stewpan with hog's lard, fry on a moderate fire to a nice colour, then sprinkle over two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar ; two minutes after, moisten with the pickle passed through a sieve ; let the liquid boil on a moderate fire till the meat is three parts cooked ; drain, and place it in another stewpan and keep it warm. Remove the fat from the stock and strain it through a sieve. Crumble two spice cakes, moisten them with a little tepid water, crush them with a spoon, dilute this paste with a part of the stock, pour all to- gether into a stewpan, and bring to the boil, stirring 522 RUSSIA all the time ; it should then be as thick as a medium cream. Boil this on side of fire for ten minutes, pour it through a strainer into a stewpan containing the wild boar, add to it a handful of pistachios ; finish cooking the meat in this sauce on a very moderate fire, repeatedly basting with sauce. Ten minutes before serving, mix in the sauce a handful of currants, same of sultana raisins well cleaned in tepid water. Keep up a moderate ebullition till the moment of serving ; then dish the piece of wild boar, surrounding it with sauce and gar- nishes including roasted potatoes. Vireska e Sadovy Tzikory. (Fillet of Beef and Endive.) Cut tender fillets into slices, season, and cook them on a gridiron. Glaze and lay them over a pile of mashed potatoes. A small piece of cooked goose liver or pate de foie gras should be laid on each fillet, surmounted by a little heap of chopped truffles. Serve with stock cullis in which some tomato puree has been mixed. Stewed Endive. Clean and pick over two heads of endive, and blanch by first putting them into hot water and then into cold ; chop them finely, put them into a stewpan with enough broth to cover, along with a bouquet game, and stew until the endive is done and the broth all boiled away, leaving it quite dry. Add two ounces of butter, a little nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste; mix them well, and send quite hot to table along with croutons. May be eaten as a separate dish. 5 2 3 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Cutlets iz Tzipliat e olady. (Chicken and Pancake Croquettes.) Put half a pound of French rolls to soak in a pint of cold water ; mince very fine the same quantity of cold fowl, one or two fat livers, and a little suet. Press the bread in a clean cloth to extract all the water ; put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of onions, and one or two truffles chopped fine ; fry for two minutes, then add the bread ; stir with a wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meats ; season with a teaspoonful of salt, half the same of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the same of lemon peel, and stir continually until very hot ; then add two eggs, one at a time ; well mix together, and pour on a dish to get cold. Make some pancake batter, and saute two pancakes about one-eighth of an inch thick, cover one with the mixture, and lay the other over, and put by until cold ; when so, cut them into any shape you like ; but if like cutlets, add the small bone of a fowl or pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of parsley ; egg and breadcrumb them, and fry in oil or lard of a nice yellow colour. Dish like cutlets with any kind of sauce ; garnish with arti- chokes, or, if plain, with fried parsley. Artischoki. (Artichokes.) Cut off about half an inch from the tops of eight arti- chokes, trim off a few of the leaves from the bottom and burn them. Wash thoroughly and put them into a saucepan with a good supply of slightly salted water, and boil until quite tender. Take them out, drain, 5 2 4 RUSSIA scoop out the fibrous insides, and squeeze thoroughly dry. Fry the tops of the leaves in about twelve table- spoonfuls of oil. Put half a pound of grated bacon into a saucepan with half an ounce each of flour and butter, add two gills of water seasoned with fine herbs, and pour over two teacupfuls of broth ; put the saucepan on the fire, and stir well for about five minutes. Place some of this mixture into each artichoke (previously seasoned with salt and pepper internally), cover the top or opening made to scoop out the inside with a thin slice of bacon of about two inches square, bind them round with string to keep them in position, put into a saucepan with two breakfastcupfuls of broth, set the pan in the oven, and bake for twenty minutes. Arrange the cooked leaves on a dish, remove the string and bacon from the artichokes, place them on the leaves, and serve with chicken and pancake croquettes or as a separate dish. Piglitza Varennaya a Saladom. (Braised Lapwings and Salad.) Pluck, pick, singe, draw, and cut in two, three lapwings, and put them in a stewpan with a little melted butter, two small onions, some mushrooms, truffles, and some veal sweetbreads, and toss them over the fire till lightly browned. Pour in two glasses of brandy; place pan on a very brisk fire, so that the brandy will burn ; stir now and then, and when the brandy is burnt out add a little stock, and simmer gently till the birds are done. After straining and clearing the gravy, thicken it with 525 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS a little partridge cullis and a dash of vinegar ; let it be of good taste ; dish, and pour sauce over. Saladom. (Salad.) Cut up separately into small dice one ounce each of roast beef, cooked ham, cooked ox tongue, cooked chicken, the same of lean leg of cooked mutton, and two truffles. Put them all into a salad-bowl, separating each kind by six boned anchovies ; pour one table- spoonful of Tartar sauce in the centre, covering the sauce with two chopped leaves of lettuce, and serve. It should be mixed together just before serving. Tartar Sauce. Rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled egg through a hair sieve into a basin ; add the yolks of two raw eggs, with a little salt and pepper ; mix all together with a wooden spoon. Have a pint of good salad oil in a bottle; hold it with the left hand over the basin, dropping it in very gradually, and with the right continue stirring it round until it becomes rather thick ; then moisten it with a little tarragon vinegar, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so on until you have used all the oil, keeping it rather thick ; then add a tablespoonful of finely-chopped gherkins, half ditto of chopped capers, half ditto of chopped eschalots, and the same of chopped parsley, two of French mustard, a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and more salt if required. 526 RUSSIA Ananasny Besdeloushka. (Pine-apple Souffle.) Make a nice clean dough, by kneading four ounces sugar, four ounces butter, and four ounces thoroughly dried and sifted flour. Bring half a pint of milk to just boiling point, remove it from the fire, and stir in the fore- going dough along with a few, drops of pine-apple essence . Whip thoroughly till quite smooth and nearly cold. Stir in the yolks of five eggs and again beat thoroughly. Whip the five whites till very stiff, and stir lightly into the mixture. Have ready a buttered mould, the bottom decorated with dry fruit, and fill it three-quarters full. Put the mould in a dish containing hot water to half its height ; push into a moderate oven and cook for an hour. Take great care not to whip the whites till you are quite ready to put the souffle into the oven. Pour some lili sauce into a dish, and place the souffle in the middle. Vanilla, raspberry, strawberry, lemon, or almond essences may be substituted for the pine-apple. Sauce Lili. Put half a yolk and the whites of two eggs in a bowl, along with a quarter pint of light white wine, half a tea- spoonful of cornflour, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a few drops of essence of pine-apple. Put the bowl in a dish containing boiling water,, and whip on the fire con- tinually till it becomes light and frothy. Vanilla, raspberry, strawberry, lemon, or almond essences may be substituted for the pine-apple. 5' 2 7 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Slivotchny Tort. (Cream Tart.) Line a flawn mould (a round tin about ten inches in diameter and about one inch deep) with puff-paste ; mask the bottom, but only to half the height, with a thick layer of whipped cream flavoured with Benedictine ; cover the cream with a round of paper, and push the flawn into the oven. The paste being nearly done, take it out, and mask the surface of the cream with a layer of raspberry marmalade, passed through a sieve ; mask this marmalade with a layer of the cream so that the crust may be quite full ; sprinkle over the upper surface some crushed macaroons ; sprinkle over this layer a little sugar ; push the flawn once more into the oven, and ten minutes after take it out. Vinnoy Krem. (Wine Cream.) Take half a pint of double cream, with four ounces of sherry and two of brandy, the juice of half a lemon, three to three and a half ounces sugar, according to quan- tity of lemon juice, and a little grated nutmeg ; whip till quite stiff, then heap up into custard glasses, and serve with finger biscuits, or put a layer of fingers in a glass dish and pour all over in place of a trifle. Brussnit chnoe Morojennoe. (Cranberry Ice Cream Oblitjes) Cream half a pound of butter (see that it does not oil ; if it does let it stand for a little in a cool place). Then add three eggs, one at a time, whipping each thoroughly as it is put in. Add a quarter pound of sifted 528 RUSSIA flour, same quantity of finely powdered sugar, and half a pint of cream. Beat all this till as light as possible. Rub some butter on a warm oblitje pan, put a teaspoon- ful of the batter in, and shut it tight and hold over fire, turning occasionally to brown it. Take the cake out and roll it on a stock. When cold fill with cranberry ice cream made as follows : — Cranberry Ice Cream. Crush one pound of cranberries, which dilute with half a glassful of water ; pass the liquid through a cloth, then pour it into a sugar pan with one pound of sugar, and boil, skimming carefully. Pour into a kitchen basin four tablespoonfuls of flour (potato) , which dilute with a glass of cold water ; then mix it together with the hot juice. Set the sugar pan on a moderate fire ; stir the liquid with a spoon till the moment when the first bubbling appears. Take the pan off the fire ; sweeten the preparation with more sugar if necessary. Mix in half a pint of cream and a glass of Benedictine liqueur, and freeze in the usual manner. Black Bread. With water make a stiff dough of five pounds of coarse barley and rye flour in equal quantities. Mix thoroughly four ounces of fresh yeast, two and a half pounds of coarse wheat meal, and half a handful of salt. Cover and put it in a warm place to rise till it swells to double its original size, then knead it well. Shape into loaves, 529 2L BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS put them on a tin, and stand for other twenty minutes in a warm place to rise again. Bake in a moderate oven. Benedictine Essence. Cardamom seeds, myrrh, and mace, of each fifteen grains ; galangal root, ginger, and orange peel, of each 2 J drachms ; extract of aloes, i drachm ; rectified spirit, 6 ozs. ; water, i\ ozs ; macerate for a week, press and filter. To the filtrate add golden syrup, 5 drachms ; spirit of nitrous ether, 8 ounces ; solution of ammonia, 15 minims; vanillin sugar, 15 grains; liquorice juice, 5 drachms ; acetic ether, 1 ounce ; coumarin, 1 \ grains ; oil of lemon, 1 drachm ; oil of bitter orange, 1 drachm ; oil of anise, 15 drops; oil of bitter almonds, 12 drops; oil of sassafras, 7 drops ; oil of hyssop, 4 drops ; oil of hops, 2 drops ; oil of wormwood, 40 minims ; oil of ginger, 15 minims; oil of cascarilla, 15 drops; oil of milfoil, 10 drops ; oil of angelica, 6 drops ; oil of cardamoms, 2 drops; oil of juniper and rosemary, of each, 1 drop. Bring up the volume to 17 J ounces by the addition of rectified spirit. The essence should be kept for two years before being used for the following : — Benedictine essence, 1 ounce; rectified spirit, 24 ounces; sugar, 22 ounces ; water, 20 ounces. Dissolve the sugar in the water, and to the syrup add the essence, previously mixed with the spirit. Filter till quite clear and of a light golden colour. 53° LXX.— SAMOA Menu Palusami Faiai Fauosi (Baked Taro Leaf) (Baked Arrowroot) (Baked Taro Root) Fai ota tuna Fai saka (Baked Ripe Bananas) (Ripe Bananas Stewed) Fai Mata (Green Bananas Stewed) Sua Miti (Miti Sauce) Fig-ota tifa Faivua tao (Oysters) (Baked Clams) Ulaua tao J 'a tau (Baked Prawns) (Baked Fish) Pua' a ua tunu Moa ua tunu Lupe ua tunu (Roast Sucking- Pig-) (Baked Fowls) (Baked Pigeons) Tafolo Taupolonia Taupolosami (Bread-Fruit) (Bread-Fruit) (Bread-Fruit) S3i BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Palusami. (Baked Taro Leaf.) Squeeze dry and mash some cleaned taro leaves which have been cooked in sea water. Scrape a cocoanut, and pour boiling water over it ; after thirty minutes queeze the juice out. Mix this with the cooked taros and roll up in a banana leaf, and bake. Faiai. (Baked Arrowroot.) Mix some cocoanut milk and arrowroot, roll it up in a banana leaf, and bake. Fauosi. (Baked Taro Root.) Clean outside of taro roots, and steep in water for several hours to take away bitterness. Then scrape same finely, and mix with cocoanut milk or juice till a nice paste is made ; roll this up in a banana leaf, and bake. Fai ota tuna. (Baked Ripe Bananas.) Roast some ripe bananas, and eat with cocoanut milk or juice. Fai saka. (Ripe Bananas Stewed.) Peel some bananas and stew them in cocoanut milk till tender, and serve with the liquor. Fai Mata. (Green Bananas Stewed.) Cook the same as "Ripe Bananas." 532 SAMOA Sua miti. (Miti Sauce.) Take a quantity of cocoanut milk, a little water, some lime juice, grated onions, and Chili peppers. Mix well together, put the mixture in a bottle, and use when required. Figota tifa. (Oysters.) Eaten raw. Faivua tao. (Baked Clams.) Steep some clams for five or six hours in salt and water to clean them. Bake till cooked, and serve with miti sauce and baked bread-fruit. Ulaua tao. (Baked Prawns.) Clean and skin some prawns, and bake till cooked. Serve with miti sauce and baked bread-fruit. J'a tau. (Baked Fish.) Take any kind of fish ; clean, and bake till cooked. Serve with miti sauce and baked bread-fruit. Pua'a ua tunu. (Roast Sucking Pig.) Flour the pig and rub quite dry. Fill the inside with hot stones, and bake till cooked. Divide the body and head lengthwise, pour over a sauce made of the brains, cocoanut milk, sea water, the pulp of a banana, and a little toasted flour. Serve with miti sauce and baked bread-fruit. 533 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Moa ua tunu. (Baked Fowls.) Pluck some fowls, thoroughly clean them inside with salt and water, put inside some hot stones, and bake till cooked. Serve with miti sauce and baked bread-fruit. Lupe ua tunu. (Baked Pigeons). Cook the same as fowls. Serve with miti sauce and baked bread-fruit. Tafolo. (Bread-Fruit.) Pound some bread-fruit, mix with sea water and cocoa- nut milk, and bake. Taupolonia. (Bread-Fruit.) Made the same as above, without sea water. Taupolosami. (Bread-Fruit.) Made the same as above, without cocoanut milk. 534 LXXI.— SCOTLAND Menu A Fitless Hen Sheep's Head Broth Fish and Sauce Hotch Potch Partan Bree Teased Skate Baked Stappit Haddies Mutton Collops and Cucumbers Stewed Sheep's Head Haggis Howtowdie and Drappit Eggs Dressed Lamb's Head Roast Grouse Apple Dumplings Rice Puddings in Skins Brunt Cream Hattit Kit Partan Pie Crappit Heids Crowdie Auld Man's Milk and Shortbread Fruit 535 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS A Fitless Hen. This antique Scotch dish, which is now seldom seen at any table, is made of two parts of suet and one of oatmeal, with a seasoning of pepper, salt, and onions, as for white puddings ; the mixture is bound together with an egg, and moulded somewhat in the form of a fowl. It must be boiled in a cloth. Sheep's-Head Broth. Choose a large fat head. When carefully singed, soak it and the singed trotters for a considerable time in lukewarm water. Take out the glassy part of the eyes ; scrape the head and trotters, and brush till perfectly clean and white ; then split the head with a cleaver, take out the brains, etc., and clean the nostrils and gristly parts ; split also the trotters, and take out the tendons. Wash the head and feet once more, and let them blanch till wanted for the pot. Take a cupful of barley and twice that quantity of soaked white or old green peas, with a gallon or rather more of water. Put to this the head, two to three pounds of scrag or trimmings of mutton, perfectly sweet, and some salt. Take off the scum very carefully as it rises, and the broth will be as limpid and white as any broth made of beef or mutton. When the head has boiled rather more than an hour add a pinch of sugar, a sliced carrot and turnip, and afterwards some onions and parsley shred. The more slowly the head is boiled the better will both the meat and soup be. From two to three hours' boiling, 53 6 SCOTLAND according to the size of the head and the age of the animal, and an hour's simmering by the side of the fire, will finish the soup. After making the soup, remove the head, which must not be too much boiled, and serve with the sliced carrot and turnip, with the addition of a good caper sauce and some of the clear soup in separate sauce-boats. HOTCH-POTCH. Cut four pounds of the neck and back ribs of mutton or lamb (the latter for preference) into pieces, and put on to boil in four or five quarts of well-salted water. Be careful to skim as it comes through the boil, adding a cupful of cold water at two different times to accelerate the rising of the scum. Boil slowly for an hour, remove the back ribs, and cut into pieces about an inch square, and lay to the one side. Add the white of three large leeks, one large onion chopped small, a large carrot and half a turnip sliced, and boil for another hour, being careful to skim as occasion requires. Remove the carrot and turnip ; add half a dozen small young white turnips, the same quantity of young carrots (both cut in small dice), a cauliflower broken into small branches, two pints of shelled green peas, a third of the quantity of shelled and skinned broad beans, a good handful of French beans cut into inch lengths, and pepper and salt to taste. When all the vegetables are cooked, take out the large pieces of meat, heat in the soup the small pieces, pour the whole into a tureen, strew a handful of finely chopped parsley on top, and serve. If by any 537 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS chance the old vegetables have given a bitter or hard taste, add a pinch of sugar. Fish and Sauce. Put a good quantity of fish trimmings, such as haddock heads, bones, skins, points of the tails, and fins, in a pot of salted water along with some green onions, parsley, chives, and some whole pepper. When all the substance is obtained, strain and clear the stock into another pot, and put in a good piece of butter slightly kneaded in Indian corn flour ; bring slowly to the boil (stirring all the time), and then put in small skinned or filleted haddocks cut in three or divided (according to the size), also a large handful of chopped parsley. Boil for ten minutes, and serve the fish and sauce together in a soup tureen. The soup ought to be thin in consistency and transparent in colour, Partan Bree. Boil two good-sized crabs in salted water. When cold, remove the meat from the insides, and place in a basin. Boil in milk five ounces of rice till soft ; drain, and pass it with the crab meat through a sieve, and pound till perfectly smooth. Mix in gradually two quarts of clear fish stock — made without vegetables — adding salt and pepper to taste. Put in a pot; heat up, stirring all the time. Now add the meat from the large claws cut into pieces ; remove from the fire and stir in a large cupful of cream. If on the thin side, put a whipped egg in the 538 SCOTLAND tureen before pouring in the soup. The liquid should be of a consistency between a clear soup and a thick one. Teased Skate. Take the dried wing of a skate, and after stripping off the skin cut it into lengths of about one inch in breadth. Put the fish so prepared into water, and boil for the space of twenty minutes, after which let it be put into the oven, where it should remain a quarter of an hour, during which time it will become so tender as to permit the bones to be drawn out. The flesh being now detached from the bones, put it into a cloth, and rub with the hands till it puts on a woolly appearance, which it will soon do. In a saucepan reduce half a pound of butter into oil, put the teased fish into it, and keep stirring for a few minutes. When sufficiently heated, serve up. Baked Stappit Haddies. Thoroughly clean the insides, scrape the skins, and stuff some small haddocks with a forcemeat made of fish, toasted oatmeal, minced suet, onions, seasoned with pepper and salt (some of the forcemeat may be made into balls for garnishing) . Brush the fish over with egg, strew with fine breadcrumbs, minced parsley, etc., and bake in the oven, basting them well with butter. Garnish with sliced lemon, forcemeat balls, and pickled samphire. Serve with mussel or white sauce. 539 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Mussel Sauce. Make three-quarters of a pint of very strong stock from a pound or more of good veal, onions, and parsley, and thicken with plenty of butter kneaded in flour. Strain and add some mussels, a glass of white wine, the juice of a lemon, salt, and white pepper. Mutton Collops and Cucumbers. Pare and slice the cucumbers as thick as a five-shilling piece. Sprinkle them with fine salt and pepper, and pour vinegar over them. Brown the collops (small pieces of mutton the size of a five-shilling piece) in the frying-pan, and then stew them with the drained cucumbers in a little broth. Skim and season the stew, and serve it hot in a ragout dish. Haggis. Clean a sheep's pluck thoroughly. Make incisions in the heart and liver to allow the blood to flow out, and parboil them, letting the windpipe lie over the side of the pot to permit the phlegm and blood to dis- gorge from the lungs : change the water after a few minutes' boiling for fresh water. Another half hour's boiling will be sufficient ; but throw back the half of the liver to boil till it will grate easily. Take the heart, the half of the liver, and the lungs, trimming away all skins and black-looking parts, and mince them together along with a pound of good beef suet. Grate the other half of the liver. Have eight onions peeled and scalded 54° SCOTLAND in two waters, which chop and mix with this mince. Toast some oatmeal before the fire till it is of a light brown colour and perfectly dry. Less than two tea- cupfuls of meal will do for this quantity of meat ; spread the mince on a board, and strew the meal lightly over it, with a high seasoning of pepper, salt, a little cayenne, and marjoram, well mixed. Have a sheep's stomach perfectly clean, and see that there be no thin part in it in case of its bursting. Put in the meat with a half pint of good beef gravy, or as much strong broth and the juice of a lemon or a little good vinegar as will make it a thick stew. Be careful not to fill the bag too full, so as to allow the meat room to swell. Press out the air and sew up the bag ; prick it with a large needle when it first swells in the pot, to prevent bursting ; let it boil slowly for three hours if large. HOWTOWDIE AND DRAPPIT EgGS. Prepare and stuff with forcemeat a young plump fowl. Put it into a yetling concave-bottomed small pot with a close-fitting lid, with onions, spices, and at least a quarter pound of butter. Add herbs if approved. When the fowl has hardened and been turned, add a half pint or rather more of boiling water. Fit on the lid very close, and set the pot over embers. A cloth may be wrapped round the lid if it is not luted on. An hour will do a small fowl, and so in proportion. Strain and reduce the liquor ; and with it, a little white cullis, and the liver parboiled and grated, make a thick sauce, adding mush- 54i BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS rooms, oysters, and forcemeat balls. On a deep ashet make a border of spinach as prepared in Finland dinner. Place the fowl in the middle, and pour the sauce carefully over it, avoiding the spinach. Decorate the border of spinach with neatly trimmed poached eggs or little heaps of buttered eggs. Buttered Eggs. Shake a piece of butter double the size of a large walnut in a pan over the fire till it just melts (it must not cook). Break six whole eggs in this, dust with pepper and salt, and place on the fire, and with the pointed edge of a metal spoon held uprightly and edgeways smartly score the eggs backwards and forwards till lightly set. On no account must the eggs be stirred round, as the result ought to produce distinct particles of yellow and white like very small dice. Serve the equivalent of two on a slice of toast, or the whole in a hot breakfast dish. Dressed Lamb's Head. Wash, soak, and blanch in hot water, and split it sufficiently to take out the brains, and cut away the black parts of the eyes. Boil it in a large fish-kettle, with plenty of cold water and some salt to throw up the scum. Simmer gently for an hour and a half. Take up the head, and cut out the tongue ; score the head (but not deeply) in diamonds ; brush it over with beat egg, and sprinkle with breadcrumbs, chopped parsley, and seasonings. Stick a few bits of butter over it, 542 SCOTLAND and brown in a Dutch oven. Meanwhile, wash, scald, skin, and parboil the brains ; chop them up ; stir them into hot melted butter with parsley and sage first parboiled and chopped, white pepper, salt, the squeeze of a lemon, or a little lemon-pickle, a small quantity of cayenne, and a minced shallot. Skin the tongue, and serve the brains around it as a small dish to accom- pany the lamb's head. Serve also parsley and melted butter. Curled slices of toasted bacon, a piece of ham and bacon, a pig's cheek, or sausage, as well as a border of haggis meat brushed over with egg and breadcrumbs browned in front of the fire, are indispensable with lamb's head, even when highly dressed. Roast Grouse. Hang the bird till nearly high, and truss same as for a roasting fowl. Put pieces of fat bacon all round it, with some vine leaves on top ; secure with thin string, and place in a sharp oven for thirty minutes, basting well with butter and the dripping from the bird. Ten minutes before finishing, remove bacon and vine leaves, and place a thick slice of toast in a drainer under the bird to catch the rich gravy, but not to touch the gravy in the pan. Do not baste after putting toast under- neath bird. Put a little water and some partridge cullis or good stock with a little salt in the pan, and bring to the boil ; strain and serve in a separate sauce-boat, accompanied with potato chips, browned breadcrumbs, and bread sauce. 543 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Bread Sauce. Soak a thick slice from a two days old household loaf in half a pint of very hot milk, but not boiling ; add a good bit of butter, a cleaned onion cut through the middle, and twelve peppercorns (six white and six black) , and when soft take out the peppercorns (which you have tied in a piece of muslin) and onion, and with a wooden spoon make a smooth sauce ; add a little salt, heat up, and serve in a sauce-boat. Breadcrumbs. Grate very finely a thick slice of old bread, which put on an old plate with pieces of butter on top. Place in the oven, and turn them over with a fork so that all the crumbs may be equally browned. See that they do not scorch. Apple Dumplings. Make a good plain short crust with flour, butter (minced suet or lard), a small pinch of salt, a good double pinch of sugar, and a little water. Roll out, and line a small bowl ; put in a couple of apples cleaned and cut in slices. Put a large tablespoonful of sugar on top, a tablespoonful of lemon juice and some water. Pinch in the paste, tie a floured cloth over the bowl, and boil at least three hours, and turn out. Serve with cream. Rice Puddings in Skins. Boil a cupful of rice in milk till fairly soft ; add same quantity of roughly shred suet, a beaten egg, and a hand- 544 SCOTLAND ful of cleaned currants ; sweeten with sugar and season with cinnamon and nutmeg. Fill some well-cleaned skins, cut in equal lengths ; secure the ends with thin wooden skewers, and boil steadily for an hour. Brunt Cream. Set on the fire in a stewpan two tablespoonfuls of clarified sugar ; leave it on till it begins to get brown, then shake it about, and put in an ounce of ratafia biscuits, a small bit of lemon peel, sugar, and orange flower ; stir it together, then put in a pint of boiled new milk. When it has simmered by the side of the fire for twenty minutes, beat up four whites of eggs and the yolks of two in a stewpan ; take the milk from the fire and mix with it half a pint of good thick cream, then the eggs, which rub through a tammy cloth, and repeat a second time. Butter some small moulds and fill them with the mixture. Have a large stewpan with a little water in it on the fire ; when it boils put in your moulds, and cover with buttered paper, and cover close with lid ; or they may be steamed in the oven. You may put it in a large mould. When cooked, take out moulds, dry them, and turn out into a dish. Hattit Kit. Warm a quart of new milk, and pour it over two quarts of buttermilk. Let the whole stand in a cold place for seven hours. The top being a firm curd, remove it, drain, and set in a china basin with holes in it to allow any additional liquid to get away. Turn out and eat with raspberry or strawberry jam. 545 2M BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Raspberry Jam. Pick the fruit over carefully, and put it in a preserving pan with a pound of red currant juice to every six pounds of raspberries. Boil till the fruit is tender but not broken up. Skim very carefully ; now add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit, and boil for ten or fifteen minutes, or till it jellies. Strawberry Jam. Made the same way as "Raspberry Jam." Partan Pie. From two crabs pick out the meat from the claws and body ; mix with a third of the above bulk breadcrumbs, one ounce of fresh butter broken up into small pieces, a small glass of vinegar, a teaspoonful of made mustard (mix the two latter). Season very highly with pepper, salt, and a grate of nutmeg. Fill one of the shells which has been nicely cleaned. Strew some breadcrumbs on top, on which put pieces of butter dotted all over, and brown in a good oven. Crappit Heids. Mix a breakfastcupful of minced good beef suet, about a third of its own weight of toasted oat- meal, and a cupful of haddock or cod roe parboiled, skinned, and minced very fine. Season very highly with pepper, salt, and finely-shred scalded onions. Fill the heads of smallish haddocks, and cook in oven. 546 SCOTLAND Croudie. Set to the one side a large basin of milk until it gets thick and sour. Put in a pinch of salt, and pour some boiling water over the milk, and stir until it curdles. When cold, pour it on to a fine sieve to drain for some hours, or into a cheese-cloth till the curd is dry. Put that into a basin with a little good cream, form into shape in the bowl, and turn out. Eat with scones, or spread it on thin buttered bread, putting some mustard and cress on top. Auld Man's Milk. Beat the yolks and whites of six eggs separately. Put to the beat yolks sugar and a quart of new milk, or thin sweet cream. Add to this rum, whisky, or brandy to taste (about half a pint), and a flavouring of lemon. Slip in the whipped whites, mix well together, and half freeze. Shortbread. Four ounces fine sifted sugar, eight ounces butter, and sixteen ounces flour. Put butter and sugar on a baking board, and rub the one with the other till both are a soft smooth mass. This will take at least half an hour, and you must be careful to see that the butter does not oil. Now add the flour, and knead it till it is thoroughly mixed and smooth. Roll out and fold over ; do this several times till the dough does not crack in the rolling. Make into a round or 547 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS square shape, and pinch the edges with finger and thumb ; prick well all over with a steel-pronged fork ; slip on to a greased tin, and bake for half an hour or three-quarters of an hour in a good steady oven. Pitcaithly Bannocks. These are made the same as shortbread, with the addition of some currants, roughly chopped almonds, and small pieces of candied peel mixed with the dough before making into cakes. Girdle Scones. Put in a basin three-quarters of a pound of flour, half a teaspoonful each of carbonate of soda and cream of tartar, a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of sugar, and a tablespoonful of lard. Mix all together very thoroughly, then pour in sufficient buttermilk gradually, stirring all the time with a knife very lightly till you have a dough easily handled. Turn on to a floured baking board, and roll out into a round half -an-inch thick, and cut it in four. Put a brick on each side of the fireplace, and stand the girdle on them ; dust the girdle with flour, and when it browns it is hot enough to cook the scones. Put the four on at once, and when they get a light brown turn them ; and when done, place them between several towels as long as they are hot, to keep out the air till quite cold. Repeat the process till you have made as many scones as you wish, 548 SCOTLAND Oatmeal Cakes. One pound of oatmeal, half ounce butter or lard, a pinch of salt, and sufficient boiling water to make into an easily handled dough. Mix all together and knead thoroughly ; take a small portion and roll it into a ball ; flatten it out with a rolling-pin into a very thin round cake ; cut this in four and toast on a girdle which you have standing several inches above the fire. When one side is done, toast the other side in front of the fire till ■light brown. Stand them upon their ends till cold. Another Way. Two pounds of fine oatmeal, quarter pound of butter or lard, half -ounce of baking soda, a little salt, and suffi- cient buttermilk to make an easily handled dough. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly, then knead for some little time. Stamp them out into rounds, squares, or triangles ; slip on to a baking tin, and shove into a good oven till finished. Another Way. Proceed as above, only substituting coarse oatmeal and water for the fine meal and buttermilk. Household Bread. Put three pounds of flour in a basin, make a bay in the middle, add one ounce of salt, and two ounces German yeast, dissolved in warm water ; now put in a full pint of water heated up to ioo° to no° Fahrenheit (just hot 549 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS enough to keep your hand in easily without burning ; if over no° Fahrenheit the bread will have a bad colour), and gradually mix the flour, etc., together. The dough should be sufficiently stiff to handle. Cover it up with a cloth and put in a warm place (not hot) for two hours. When well risen, knead thoroughly on a floured board ; put back again into the basin, cover up, and let it rise for another half hour. Then break it up into size and shape of loaves desired, about one pound weight in each. Stand for ten minutes, and place them on the sole of a sharp oven (350° to 400 ) for three-quarters of an hour. Pan Loaf. Make a dough same as above. Grease some tins and half fill with the dough ; stand for three-quarters of an hour, and fire in the same heat of oven as above. Currant Loaf. Currant loaf is made by adding three cupfuls of plumped currants. Milk Bread. Milk bread is made by substituting milk for the water, with the addition of a teaspoonful of sugar. 55° LXXII.— SERVIA Menu Tchorba od Tchrv^ni Patlidjana (Tomato Soup) Piletchi Paprikash (Braised Chicken) Kiivani Rakovi (Stewed Crayfish) Svinska Rdbra Biftek sa krompirom i yayetom (Pork Cutlets) (Beefsteak with Potatoes and Poached Eggs) Gi'ishke Griidy (Fillets of Roast Goose) Sladak Omlet (Sweet Omelet) Votche i Sir • (Dessert) Kava (Coffee) 55 1 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Tchorba od Tchrveni Patlidjana. (Tomato Soup.) Blanch about six ounces of macaroni in boiling water, with a little salt and butter ; take out, strain, cut it up into any desired lengths, and put it into a saucepan. In the meantime prepare a rich vegetable soup, strain it into a saucepan, add the white of an egg beaten up in a little cold soup to clear it, then boil and skim free of fat. Strain it into the saucepan containing the macaroni, and simmer at the side of the fire until nearly done, letting it remain till slightly firm. Mix six eggs with a little well-whipped cream, a lump of warmed butter, and the pulp of six tomatoes previously cooked in butter, and pepper to taste. Stir this gradually into the soup, taking care that it is not boiling, and pour into a tureen and serve. Piletchi Paprikash. (Braised Chicken.) Truss a middling-sized chicken as for boiling ; put it into a stewpan with lard, and fry for a few minutes ; season, and add one tablespoonful of chopped onion, two tablespoonfuls of raw ham in dice, and half a clove of garlic ; fry the meats a few minutes longer ; add six artichoke bottoms, a bay-leaf, a pinch of saffron, and a saltspoonful of paprica pepper ; then moisten the chicken with a sufficient quantity of broth to cover, lay over a round of buttered paper, and boil on a moderate fire, not to reduce the moisture too much ; when about done, plunge into the stewpan some rice (one glass of rice to two of stock) ; cover the stewpan, keep the stock boiling 552 SERVIA for a quarter of an hour, then place it at the entrance of the oven, or on warm ashes, and thus keep it for seven or eight minutes ; the rice should be then sufficiently cooked ; dish it up, place the chicken on the top, and the artichokes all round. Kuvani Rakovi. (Stewed Crayfish.) Put the bodies and shells from the tails of one quart of crayfish into a mortar, crush them a little, put them into a saucepan with half a pint of white wine, or water slightly acidulated with vinegar, and add half a blade of mace ; cook gently for a quarter of an hour, stirring well, and carefully strain the liquor into another saucepan. Put in the crayfish tails, half a grated nut- meg, two ounces of butter rolled in flour, and a slight seasoning of salt. Toss the pan for a few minutes, and cook until the preparation is done, which should be within half an hour of the commencement. Cover the bottom of a dish with slices of toast, pour the crayfish mixture over, and use the claws for a garnish. Svinska Rebra. (Pork Cutlets.) Cut from a young boar eight cutlets, remove the hard skin, clear the ends of the rib bones, and put them to soak for a day in a cooked pickle or marinade. Drain, and wipe them dry with a sponge, and put them into a saucepan with equal parts of butter and oil ; fry them quickly, turning them once or twice. As soon as the flesh is set, drain off the fat, pour over them a little meat 553 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS glaze, arrange them on a dish in a circle, and pour over some Catalan sauce. Biftek sa Krompiron i Yayetom. (Beefsteak with Potatoes and Poached Eggs.) Fry some fillets of beef in a hot pan without grease of any kind, turning them several times until they are done. Four minutes are sufficient for cooking over an ordinary, good fire. When done, lay them on a hot dish which has a thick layer of mashed potatoes on it ; butter the steak, and sprinkle with salt ; then lay poached eggs on top of all — one for each person to be served. Gushke Grudy. (Fillets of Roast Goose.) Half roast a goose, remove the fillets, put them in a stewpan with a few leaves of mint and one or two leaves of sage chopped fine, a little chopped onion, a seasoning of pepper and salt, and one pint of beef gravy ; cover the stewpan closely, and simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Skim quite free from scum, and put in about one quart of green peas ; cover the pan again, and simmer for twenty minutes ; then stir in a piece of butter and suffi- cient flour to thicken ; boil gently for ten minutes longer. Dish with the peas laid round the fillets and the gravy poured over. Serve with apple and gooseberry sauce in a separate sauce-boat. Apple and Gooseberry Sauce. Stew till tender in sufficient white wine to cover equal quantities of gooseberries and apples, pared and cored. 554 SERVIA Pass through a fine sieve, add same quantity of grated horse-radish, a pinch each of paprica pepper and sugar. Whisk the yolk of an egg in some thick cream and add to the above, being careful not to boil. Add more wine if it is thicker than double cream. Sladak Omlet. (Sweet Omelet.) Put the whites and yolks of six eggs into separate basins. Beat the yolks with one teacupful of cream and two tablespoonfuls of castor sugar ; then beat the whites to a stiff froth, mix them with the yolks, and fry the omelet in boiling butter. When done, spread a layer of any kind of jam over the top, fold one half of the omelet over the other, sprinkle with castor sugar, and serve on a folded napkin on a dish, or with cold rum sauce poured over. Cold Rum Sauce. Put into a saucepan a half pint of rum, three ounces granulated sugar, half a split vanilla bean, the grated rind of a medium-sized orange, and one gill of Marsala wine. Place the pan on the stove, and as soon as the liquid catches fire put on the cover and boil for one minute only. Set the pan on one side to allow the con- tents to infuse for five minutes, strain into a jar, cover tightly, and let it cool thoroughly. May be poured over any suitable sweet dishes, such as puddings, creams, pancakes, omelets, blanc-mange, etc. 555 LXXIII.— SIAM Menu PhakChimNamphrik (Fresh Salad) Kung Phra (Brawn Salad) Yam Thawsi (Savoy Salad) Miang Mu (Mixed Salad) Taipla Phat thua lantou (Anchovy Salad) (Fried Green Peas) Keng Platepok (Salmon and Vegetables) Haw Mok Pla (Fish Mayonnaise) Keng pla Thepho (Curried Fish) Pla Keng (Roast Prawns) Keng Kai (Curried Chicken) Keng Nok Jah (Curried Guinea Fowl) Kroang mu Ping (Curried Pork) Nua Sai Phat (Curried Venison) Keng Sieng Chee (Kidney Soup) Seang Kaya Phak Thang (Custard Pumpkin) Kan Sai Sai (Cocoanut and Rice Croquettes) Kanam San Kaja (Cocoanut Custard) Kanom Kruey (Banana Fritters) Kanam Plung (Sweet Cake) Fai Thong (Golden Hair) Luke mai lang mag (Assorted Fruit) 556 SIAM Phak Chim Namphrik. (Fresh Salad.) Clean a lettuce, an endive, and some cress ; separate the leaves, mix them, and dress with namphrik sauce. Namphrik Sauce. Red pepper is bruised in a mortar, and then made into a paste with shrimps or prawns in a condition politely described as " high." To this is added black pepper, garlic, and onions. Brine and citron juice give to the compound the necessary liquidity. A little ginger is also considered a desirable ingredient. Yam Thawsi. (Savoy Salad.) Fry a sliced onion in lard, then add half a teaspoonful each of pounded coriander and cumin seeds, a crushed half point of garlic, half a teaspoonful of red chillies (the large kind), and a little salt ; fry for three minutes. Pour in some water and place in this six deer's feet, and stew slowly and steadily for several hours till the meat is perfectly tender. Pluck the meat in small pieces, and put in a dish along with a quarter teacupful of grated cocoanut browned in the oven, two tablespoonfuls of finely minced shallots, a blade of finely minced lemon grass (the dried kind, if first steeped, will do), quarter teaspoonful of mixed tender orange leaves, a tablespoon- ful of soy, a little sugar, lemon juice, and some finely-shred savoy cabbage. Thoroughly mix all together, and serve. 557 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Miang Mu. (Mixed Salad.) Roast twenty-five pea-nuts, which slice fine. Mince fine five button onions and five shallots and fry in lard. Boil six ounces of pork along with four ounces of pig's skin. When tender, cut into strips about two inches long. Dry ten shelled and cooked prawns, which pound to a powder. Mix all the foregoing thoroughly with a little pounded coriander, cumin, pepper, soy, and a small pinch of sugar, as well as a good dressing of lemon juice. Divide the mixture into small portions and wrap in green tea leaves. Lettuce leaves are just as often used. Serve cold. Kung Phra. (Brawn Salad.) After cleaning and removing the eyes and brains from a young pig's head, break it up into pieces, and again clean thoroughly. Put this in a pot with sufficient water to cover, and boil for three hours, being careful to remove the scum as it rises. Strain into a dish, and when cold remove all fat. Cut the meat up into neat pieces (first skinning the tongue), and place to the one side. Return the bones to the pot along with the liquor, adding two onions, two small bay leaves, a blade of mace, a blade of lemon grass, twenty-four peppercorns, the same quantity of coriander seeds, four cloves, six cardamoms, six caraway seeds, and a tablespoonful of namphrik sauce. Boil for forty minutes, strain, and let cool to remove fat, then add the cut-up meat to the strained liquor. Boil for twenty minutes and fill a wetted cloth, longish in 558 SIAM shape, to make a roll about six inches in diameter, roll round tightly, and tie with string to keep a shape much the same as a galantine of veal. Cut the brawn into some pieces, and mix with cleaned and picked lettuce leaves, and pour over all some namphrik sauce. If for European use, take a head that has been lightly pickled, keep out the namprik sauce and blade of lemon grass, and fill a mould with the mixture instead of a cloth. ' Taipla. (Anchovy Salad.) Bone some anchovies, and mix them with leaves of lettuce, cress, and radishes. Pour over a sauce made of a tablespoonful of namphrik, same quantity of oil, a good pinch of sugar, and a very little cayenne. Phatthua lantou. (Fried Green Pea Pods.) Wash four teacupfuls of tender green peas in the pod ; do not shell them. Shell and slice four fresh prawns. Cut a teacupful of fat streaky bacon into small pieces. Pound a shallot, add a pinch of red pepper and a salt- spoonful of salt ; fry these for three minutes in lard, after which add the peas, prawns, and bacon, and fry till the peas are cooked. Add more salt if necessary. Keng Platepok. (Salmon and Vegetables.) Cut into two-inch fillets about two pounds salted salmon. After steeping, place it in a pot, and cook for twenty minutes. Boil some French beans, steeped 559 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS haricot beans, a carrot cut in dice, and a quartered onion. Put all in a pot with a cupful of oil in which spices and condiments have been fried (a teaspoonful of curry powder will do), a tablespoonful of namphrik, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and the juice of a lime. Steam gently for twenty minutes. Keng Pla Thepho. (Curried Fish.) Clean a small turbot, or the half of a middling-sized one, cut it into square pieces, which steep for twenty minutes in salt and water. With the head and bones of the fish prepare a strong stock with the usual vegetables. Cut into dice two middling-sized onions, fry them in a stewpan with lard till of a fine colour. Fry in this one teaspoonful each of turmeric, cinnamon, cumin, and cardamoms, half a teaspoonful of ground green ginger, a pinch of cayenne, and a half teaspoonful of salt, then add the pieces of turbot, previously washed and drained. Fry them a few minutes, shaking them now and again. Sprinkle over them two tablespoonfuls of rice flour. Two minutes afterwards moisten gradually with the prepared broth, until covered ; add a tablespoonful of namphrik sauce, a blade of lemon grass, a bunch of parsley, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Now remove the pieces of turbot one by one, trim them neatly, and place them on a hot dish ; reduce the sauce quickly, and thicken with three yolks of eggs diluted with cream ; pass it through a sieve over the fish, and eat with rice. 560 SIAM Pla Keng. (Roast Prawns.) Roast eight fresh prawns, remove shells and slice them. Shred two green chillies and one red one, keeping out the seeds, three button onions, and five shallots, and fry in lard. Stir in six stoned olives cut in quarters and a tablespoonful of minced mint leaves, add the prawns, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and same quan- tity of namphrik. Mix thoroughly, and serve with boiled rice. Haw Mok Pla. (Fish Mayonnaise.) Fillet a small bream, and cut in neat pieces. Put some shred onion in a pan with some coriander and cumin seeds, a clove of garlic, a sliced chilli, a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt ; place the fillets on these with a teacupful of cocoanut milk. Simmer very gently for half an hour. Remove the fillets, and when cold cover with mayonnaise sauce. Keng Kai. (Curried Chicken.) Fry in four ounces of lard a sliced onion (two ounces), some minced parsley, a ground clove of garlic, the pulp of four tomatoes, half a teaspoonful of ground coriander, quarter teaspoonful of cinnamon, a pinch each of nut- meg and cayenne, a green chilli washed and cut in slices. When the onion is nicely browned, put in the fillets and the legs of two chickens, and four ounces of ham cut into dice, and fry quickly in the lard and condi- ments till a light brown colour, after which put in a 561 2 N BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS blade of lemon grass, moisten with good white stock, and simmer very gently with the lid off the pot till the fillets are tender. Strain the stock, of which there must be little or none. Add two cupfuls of sauce similar to " Supreme," only using thick cocoanut milk in place of cream, and heat up. Serve with rice. Kroang mu Ping. (Curried Pork.) Fry some sliced onions in lard, and grind the following spices and condiments together into a paste, viz., two teaspoonfuls of turmeric, a quarter teaspoonful of cara- way, one teaspoonful of coriander, half a teaspoonful of cumin seeds, half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a teaspoonful of green chillies, half a teaspoonful of ginger, three cardamoms, a quarter of a teaspoonful of garlic, and a teaspoonful of salt. Take about two pounds of pork, cut in one-inch squares. Fry them amongst the spices, etc., then put a breakfastcupful of cocoanut milk in, cover, and stew slowly. When the meat is cooked, put in four ounces of ground almonds. Cook for a little, and pour off the fat, then add a large cupful of " Piquante " sauce, and let the pan remain on the fire for other ten minutes, and serve with boiled rice. Keng Nok Jah. (Curried Guinea-Powl.) Take two ounces of lard, and when bubbling put in two ounces ground onions, one teaspoonful of ground large chillies, a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground garlic, 562 StAM a teaspoonful of roasted and ground coriander seeds, a teaspoonful of ginger, a pinch of cayenne, four teaspoon- fuls of ground cocoanut, and a teaspoonful of salt. Fry all these, but do not char, then take the breast fillets of two guinea-fowl, and fry in the above. When cooked, remove the meat, strain the gravy, of which there must be very little, return it and the meat to the pot along with two cupfuls of sauce made as noted under- neath, and bring to the boil. Pour all over the pieces of guinea-fowl, and serve with rice. Poivrade Sauce. Wash and shred half a head of celery, two onions, two carrots, two leeks ; put them in a pan with two ounces of lard or butter, same quantity of chopped ham, half a clove of garlic, a dozen peppercorns, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bunch of fine herbs, two tomatoes sliced ; fry till a light brown, then put in half a tumbler of vinegar, and boil till very little liquid left, after which stir in an ounce and a-half of flour, and a pint and a-half of stock. Mix well, and simmer at the side of the fire for an hour. Strain through a fine cloth. When used for European cookery keep out the garlic and lard. Nua Sai Phat. (Curried Venison.) Cut in pieces twice the size of dice as much fresh venison as will fill two teacups. Extract the juice of pieces of green ginger with salt. Slice ten small button 563 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS onions, and put all the above in a pan with three table- spoonfuls of lard, seasoning with a little coriander and caraway, a sliced large green chilli, and a pinch of sugar. Fry all together, adding salt to taste. Serve with boiled Keng Sieng Chee. (Kidney Soup.) Cut up four sheep's kidneys, a heart, and half a pound of liver into small dice, season with a good pinch each of pounded cumin, coriander, and rosemary seeds, also a pinch of ground cloves and cinnamon, pepper and salt, a large onion chopped up, and some minced parsley ; fry all these for about ten minutes in five ounces of lard ; add two quarts of well-seasoned brown stock, bring to the boil, skim very carefully, put in three tablespoonfuls of rice, and boil till quite tender, then strain ; pound the heart and liver and half of the rice in a mortar, which pass through a fine hair sieve ; stir this into the stock along with the pieces of kidneys and the other half of the rice ; make it very hot, but do not boil, and serve at once. It must be rather thick. For European cookery leave out the rice, cumin, cinnamon, and pounded heart and liver, but add other four kidneys cooked and cut in dice. Before dishing, strain and clear, then put in the pieces of kidneys. Seang Kaya Phak Thang. (Custard Pumpkin.) Remove the top of a small pumpkin, scoop out the inside, and fill with the following mixture : — Scrape S64 SI AM half a cocoanut, and soak in three breakfastcupfuls of boiling water for fifteen minutes. Strain into a bowl and beat up with three teacupfuls of sugar and three duck's eggs. Put the top on the pumpkin again, and steam slowly till cooked. Kanom Kruey. (Banana Fritters.) Pound the pulp of ten bananas, and mix with half a teacupful of sugar and two teacupfuls of ground rice. Divide into small portions, and wrap up in banana leaves. Steam until cooked. Serve hot. Kan Sai Sai. (Cocoanut and Rice Croquettes.) Mix two teacupfuls of ground glutinous rice and a quarter teacupful of ordinary ground rice with a little water into a stiff batter. Cook half a grated cocoanut and half a teacupful of sugar with a little water till it thickens. Form this into small balls, and cover each ball with the rice batter. Now mix one teacupful of ordinary ground rice with four teacupfuls of cocoanut milk, and boil till it thickens. Put each of the balls on pieces of banana leaves, spread a little of the above sauce over each one, wrap up, and fasten with a small piece of wood, and steam until cooked. Serve cold. Kanam Plung. (Sweet Cake.) Put half a pint of flour in a basin, and mix with it two ounces of sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, 565 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS half teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a very small quantity of powdered cloves. Put half a pound of honey into a lined saucepan, place it over the fire till hot, but without letting it boil, then stir it in with the in- gredients in the basin, flavoured with attar of roses, and knead all well together. Cover the basin with a cloth and leave the paste for an hour. At the end of that time dredge a small quantity of flour over the table, put the paste on it, and roll it out about one inch thick, first mixing a quarter of a pound of chopped almonds in the dough. Lay the paste on a greased baking dish, and bake in a moderate oven with blanched and halved almonds spread on top. Kanam San Kaja. (Cocoanut Custard.) Grate a cocoanut and pour over a pint of boiling water, and after it has steeped for fifteen minutes strain off all the moisture. Again pour a pint of water over the grated cocoanut and strain after fifteen minutes. Make a custard in the ordinary way with sugar and eggs, only using the cocoanut milk instead of the cow's. Fai Thong. (Golden Hair.) Boil six eggs hard. Remove the whites so that the yolks are not broken. Make a strong sweet syrup and pour over. 566 LXXIV.— SIBERIA Menu Caviare Lasosina (Sturgeon Roe) (Smoked Salmon) 'Pechouaju Seleotka (Pickled Fillets of Herring) Stchie (Broth) Beluga (Stewed Sturgeon) Shahrenoe Olene Bigos (Grilled Fillets of Deer) (Stewed Meats) Goviadinoe Leposhkie (Meat Dumplings) Shahrenoe Teter e Kapousta (Braised Blackcock and Stewed Cabbage) Leposhkie Sira (Cheese Pastry) Tvorog s Varainie (Curd Dumplings) Iagodee (Fruit) 5 6 7 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Stchie. (Broth.) Prepare a little stock with a brisket of beef, some vegetables, and a piece of smoked bacon which has first been blanched. The meat being nearly done, strain two quarts of the stock, add some minced and lightly seasoned raw beetroots, onions, leeks, a quarter of a white cabbage head, and a piece of celery root, which have first been fried in oil or butter on a moderate fire. Put in small pieces of the meat and smoked bacon cut into middling-sized squares, and boil gently till the meats and vegetables are cooked. At the last moment stir into the soup a little sour juice of beetroot, thicken it with sour cream mixed with three tablespoonfuls of raw beet- root rasped, and finish with a piece of chopped fennel. Beluga. (Stewed Sturgeon.) Place some fillets of sturgeon in a baking dish, season them with salt and pepper, and put in two or three small lumps of butter ; bake the fish for a quarter of an hour, turning it at the end of seven minutes. Take the fish out of the baking dish, mix a little flour with the butter, season with chopped shallots, chives, and parsley, then turn it into a stewpan, pour in one pint of red wine, and boil for fifteen minutes. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, put in the fish to warm again, but do not boil it. Turn the fish and cooking liquor on to a hot dish, sprinkle some capers over it, and garnish with crotons of fried bread. 568 SIBERIA Shahrenoe Olene. (Grilled Fillets of Deer.) Cut up a piece of fillet of roebuck into large square slices, season with salt and pepper, then run them through with a small skewer, alternating each slice with a slice of sheep's tail fat (if sufficient of its own fat cannot be got), and a few bay leaves, all seasoned with black pepper and some cayenne, squeezing all the pieces one against the other. Roast them in front or over the fire, and when the meat is done salt it, and serve with any kind of cooked potatoes. Bigos. (Stewed Meats.) Cook two pounds of good sour-crout ; drain, and put it in layers in an earthen stewpan, intermingling each layer with pieces of cooked meats, such as roebuck, mutton, chicken, duck, ham, sausages, and bacon ; baste the meats with a little good gravy, cover the stew- pan, and keep it in the oven for half an hour. Goviadinoe Leposhkik. (Meat Dumplings.) Make a dough of one pound of flour, a little water, an egg, salt and pepper. Work it well and roll it out thin. Mince a pound of juicy steak and an onion very fine ; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with good hot gravy. After mixing, let it stand to get cold. Cut rounds from the dough, and place on them a piece of the mixture. Fold the dough over and close the edges very securely. Cook in stock. When they float, cook for twenty minutes with the lid on the pot. Place them in a S 6 9 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS deep dish with some of the stock poured over. Pepper and salt are served separately. Shahrenoe Teter e Kapousta. (Braised Blackcock and Stewed Cabbage.) Put about three tablespoonfuls of small squares of fat salted pork into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and toss them about over a brisk fire until melted. Prepare and truss a bird, put it in the fat with a bunch of sweet herbs, one large onion, and a small carrot cut in slices, and fry the whole quickly until beginning to take colour. Then moisten to height with equal quantities of white wine and rich broth, and keep simmering gently at the side of the fire. When the bird is tender, put it on to a hot dish, boil the liquor for some minutes to reduce it, pour through a strainer over the bird, and serve with stewed savoy. Ptarmigan may be cooked the same way. Stewed Savoy Cabbage. Boil some savoy cabbages in salted water until done. Let them get cold, and then squeeze out the water ; cut in quarters, and take out the stalks. Put them in a saucepan with one piled tablespoonful of butter, a small handful of flour, a little mace, and sufficient thick curds of sweet milk to keep them from burning, and let them stew thoroughly. Leposhkie Sira. (Cheese Pastry.) Work up half a pound of grated cheese with half a pound of butter, half a teaspoonful of dry mustard, a 57° SIBERIA pinch of white pepper, and a rub of garlic, until they are thoroughly incorporated. Make a stiff paste with eight eggs, a little water, and sufficient flour. Roll out the paste, and use the cheese mixture to spread smoothly- over it, as though it were butter only, and being used for making puff paste. Give this paste three turns, and then roll it half an inch thick, and cut it into pieces about one and a half inches long and one inch broad. Lay these upon a buttered baking tin, bake to a light brown, sprinkle a little grated cheese on the top of each whilst it is still hot, and serve on a folded napkin. Tvorog s Varainie. (Curd Dumplings.) Roll out some good puff paste very thin, then make some cheese curds (crowdie), squeeze the whey out, and mix with butter and the yolk of hard-boiled eggs, into round balls the size of a walnut. Cut out rounds of the puff paste, place the balls in the middle, fold over, fix the edges firmly with the white of egg, and boil in boiling water. Drain and pour melted butter over them. Serve separately some sour cream. 57' LXXV.— SICILY Menu Minestrone National! (Macaroni Soup) Storione Bracciato (Stewed Sturgeon) Polio Alia Cacciatora Lingua d'Agnello (Stewed Chicken) (Sheeps' Tongues) Picciani con Cavoli Biaciati (Braised Cabbage and Pigeons) Pudino-ti Vermicelli Fritata Siciliana Bomboni Ratafini (Vermicelli Pudding) (Pancakes Glazed) (Ratafias Cream) Dolce alle mandorle (Marzipan) Frutta (Fruit) 572 SICILY Minestrone Nationali. (Macaroni Soup.) Take twenty ladlefuls of stock made from veal, fowls, or any other birds, or better, a mixture of the lot. Reduce this to half ; blanche twelve ounces of large Naples macaroni, and boil it thirty minutes, slowly, in one-half of the stock, with two ounces of fresh butter and a little pepper ; chop the fourth part of a fillet of beef braised or roasted, removing all the fat particles ; grate four ounces of fresh Parmesan cheese. When serving, put a layer of the macaroni at the bottom of the tureen, strew on it a little Parmesan, and cover with some chopped beef ; again add macaroni, Par- mesan, and beef, and continue this till you have six layers, the last layer being Parmesan. Pour over it the liquor from the macaroni and a little of the stock, serving the remainder in a silver casserole ; add but little of the stock, as the soup should remain in layers as they are marked. Storione Bracciato. (Stewed Sturgeon.) Skin very carefully about four pounds of sturgeon, throw a handful of salt over it ; an hour after, wash, wipe, tie up, and lay it on the drainer in a kettle ; pour over it an essence made as follows : — Slice two carrots, two onions, one dozen of mushrooms, a root of parsley, one clove of garlic, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, basil, two cloves, a pinch of mace, some pepper, a little salt, and half a pint of good oil ; sweat these over a slow fire, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon ; then 573 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS add a ladleful of good stock and let it simmer for an hour and a half ; squeeze it through a tammy, and pour it over the fish, which season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and the flesh of two lemons sliced (with the pips taken out) laid upon the fish ; add a pint bottle of champagne (cider will do equally well) ; cover the kettle and set it over a quick fire ; when boiling, lay fire on the top and underneath, that the fish may simmer slowly for two hours ; baste freely with its liquor every fifteen minutes ; when ready to serve, pass the liquor through a silk sieve, without suffering the least particle of the oil to go through ; reduce this liquor to a demi- glaze, one half of which add to double the quantity of sauce " Sicilian " ; when it boils, work smoothly into it four ounces of cold butter ; pour one half of the sauce over the fish, glaze with its own reduced liquor, and serve the remaining sauce in a boat. Sicilian Sauce. Chop two truffles, four shallots, a dozen mushrooms, and some parsley separately ; put them into a stew- pan with a little thyme, a bay leaf, one clove of garlic, and a little cayenne. Moisten with two glasses of sherry, set the whole to simmer gently on a slow fire for ten minutes ; add sufficient white cullis for the quantity of sauce required. Strain and reduce it to its proper consistency, remove it from the fire and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg, then put it into a bain marie to keep hot. 574 SICILY Just before using add a spoonful of chopped and blanched parsley, the rind of two oranges (pared very thin, cut into fine shreds, and blanched), some lemon juice, a pinch of pounded sugar. Heat up in the bain marie — not a pot. Pollo Alla Cacciatora. (Stewed Chicken.) Dress and cut in eight pieces a plump chicken. Fry a sliced onion, a sliced carrot, and a piece of ham in a little oil. When browned, take out the vegetables and fry the pieces of chicken for five minutes. Pour in two cupfuls of stock, add two dozen fresh mushrooms and half a breakfastcupful of pickles (rather more than less), also pepper, salt, a bay leaf, and some fine herbs. Stew very slowly for an hour. Strain the gravy and add it to a large cupful of Palermo sauce ; heat up, and serve surrounded with "nouille" paste cooked in stock. Palermo Sauce. Chop six medium-sized mushrooms, six small green onions, three green truffles, and a handful of parsley (the latter very fine) . Put them in a pan, with one clove of garlic, a glass of champagne or Rhine wine, a slice of lemon, the juice of half a lemon, two spoonfuls of good oil, and a pint of Italian cullis. Let all stew together for ten minutes. Lift out the garlic and the slice of lemon, and serve. If you have no cullis you may thicken the sauce by putting in a small piece of butter rolled in flour. 575 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Nouille Paste. Sift six ounces of fine flour into a basin, make a foun- tain, add within it a pinch of salt, seven or eight eggs, and mix the whole into a stiff paste ; then work it by passing it in small pieces between the pressure of the hands and the dresser to mingle the soft and hard pieces together, forming it into one equally smooth and hard body ; perform this operation once in summer and twice in winter ; the paste should be firm, and yet soft enough to mould easily ; cut and mould it in four equal parts, which roll as thin as possible ; cut into strips two inches wide, flour them lightly, lay four of these strips one on the other, and cut them across as thin as possible ; when thus cut, move the pieces gently with the ends of the fingers, to separate them, thus forming a kind of vermicelli, which strew on large stewpan covers, that they may not adhere together by their own weight, which will happen if laid more than an inch in depth ; follow the same process with the rest of the sheets, and when thus arranged, if intended for entrees, turn them into boiling stock ; if for sweets, into boiling cream or milk. Lingua d'Agnello. (Sheeps' Tongues.) Braise ten or twelve pickled sheeps' tongues in well- flavoured stock in which you have put a glass of red wine. After three-quarters of an hour's gentle simmering they will be cooked. Put them flat on a dish, and put . another dish on top with a weight so as to press them. 576 SICILY When the tongues are cold cover them with " Supreme " sauce, and when quite cold dip each tongue in some beaten egg and roll in bread crumbs ; flatten them with a knife, and lay to the one side till about twenty minutes before dinner-time. (Before putting on the "Supreme" sauce you will have first trimmed the tongues neatly.) Fry in boiling fat to a light brown. Put some macaroni dressed with cheese and a little Bechamel sauce in the middle of a dish, and place the tongues in a circle round the macaroni. Pour some red wine sauce under, and the rest in a sauceboat. Red Wine Sauce. Scrape and grate a stick of horse-radish and place this in a pan with two ounces of glaze, a small pot of red currant jelly, half a pint of red wine, and a spoonful of brown cullis ; boil very gently for twenty minutes and strain into a sauceboat, or over meats where directed. Picciani con Cavoli Biaciati. (Braised Cabbage and Pigeons.) Clean sufficient carrots and turnips, divide them in lengths of one inch and a half, cut them with a cutter half an inch wide, blanch them separately in boiling water, with a little salt ; drain and put them with some good stock, a little sugar, and a piece of fresh butter the size of a nut. to boil slowly at the side of the stove ; when nearly done, boil them quickly to a glaze. Make an essence of parsley roots, etc., the 577 20 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS trimmings of carrots, turnips, six onions stuck with cloves, three heads of celery, two lettuces, and some good stock ; skim it and boil slowly ; when done, strain through a napkin, let it settle, pour off all the clear liquid, and reduce a good Espagnole sauce with it, that it may obtain the flavour of the roots. Blanch three cabbages cut in quarters, take out the stocks and open each quarter to season it with pepper and salt ; tie them up and put them in a stewpan with slices of fat bacon and a slice of lean ham ; put in the midst of the cabbage a sausage, a piece of bacon previously blanched, and three pigeons (with their legs drawn in) larded with fat bacon and ham ; add a bunch of parsley and shallot ; cover the whole with fat bacon, and set them to stew with clear brown stock or the skimmings of a poultry stock over a slow fire for three hours. Drain on a napkin the carrots and turnips, and place them round the bottom and sides of a buttered mould ; drain the cabbage in a colander, and the pigeons, bacon, and sausages ; press them in a double napkin to firm them and to preserve the form of the chartreuse ; cover the bottom and sides thinly with the cabbage, lay round the bottom a border of the sausage and bacon, then the pigeons with their breasts downwards, and on them more bacon and sausage, and fill up the mould with cabbage, rendering it very even at the top. Cover it with oiled paper and put it in a bain marie for an hour. Some minutes before serving, turn the chart- reuse over upon a napkin folded in eight and laid upon a stewpan cover to drain ; turn the mould over, 578 SICILY back again, and lay the dish upon it ; then turn it over again and take off the mould, and serve immediately with the sauce in a sauceboat. Duck, wild duck, teal, larks, partridges and pheasants may thus be prepared. It is usual to put the game in whole, though many cut them in pieces, which is more convenient for those who serve at table. Pudino-ti Vermicelli. (Vermicelli Pudding.) Wash six ounces of vermicelli, and simmer it in water till it is tender, but not soft, and strain it. Beat up five yolks and two whites of eggs, stir into them a very little salt and pepper, and half a pint of good sweet cream. Mince, but not too finely, the skinned breast of a cold fowl and rather less of a dressed lean ham. Crate about an ounce and a half of Parmesan cheese over the mince, and mix the whole ingredients well together with the vermicelli. Butter and fill a melon- shaped or other pudding dish, and steam till thoroughly done. Turn the pudding carefully out, and serve it hot, with a strong clear gravy flavoured with onions, parsley, and a little tarragon. Fritata Siciliana. (Pancakes Glazed.) Put into a small stewpan one ounce of dried sifted flour, two ounces of fine sugar, two ounces of sweet macaroons, and a pinch of candied orange- flowers ; crush, and mix the whole with five yolks of eggs, half a quart of double cream, and a grain of salt, which thus affords a clearer paste than the common pancakes. 579 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS With a paper brush rub the bottom of a pan with oil so that it may be slightly greased all over ; then pour in a spoonful of the preparation, which spread over the pan by moving the pan about, thus rendering the paste as thin as possible ; when lightly coloured turn it (by raising it with the ends of the fingers) to colour both sides, after which turn it out upon a large baking sheet ; mask it with apricot jam, and strew upon it some macaroons broken ; then roll it up, leaving it about an inch in width. During this time you have made a second like the first, and so proceed, being careful to keep the pan over a slow fire. When all are thus prepared, cut them three inches in length, and dish up in a circle, sift sugar over and, if liked, glaze with a salamander. Bomboni Ratafini. (Ratafias Cream). Put four yolks of eggs into a stewpan with two ounces of ratafias, four ounces of sugar, the grated rind of half an orange, a small stick of cinnamon, half a wineglassful of curacoa, and half a pint of cream ; stir this over a stove fire in a bain marie in order to set the yolks of eggs, and then strain it through a tammy into a basin. Add thereto half a pint of whipped cream and half an ounce of dissolved clarified isinglass. Mix the whole together, and pour into a mould. Imbed in rough ice and salt. Stand for at least three hours, carefully wipe the mould, dip it into hot water, and turn out. Dolce at.le mandorle. (Marzipan.) Skin and perfectly pound eight ounces of sweet almonds, moistening them slowly with a little orange- 580 SICILY flower or rose water, or juice of lemon ; when per- fectly smooth put it into a preserving pan with eight ounces of sifted sugar, and stir the mixture continually with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire, that it ma}' not stick ; when the paste forms itself in a mass round the spoon, press the finger on it, and, if it adheres to it, con- tinue drying until it ceases to stick to the finger, then take it from the fire, detach all the paste from the sides and bottom of the pan, and roll out in a sheet one- twelfth of an inch in thickness. Divide it into two equal parts. On one part place small portions of apricot or pine-apple jam of about the size of a filbert, and an inch from each other ; wet the surface of the sheet slightly, and lay the other sheet on top, pressing it that it may contain the sweetmeat between the sheets ; then with a round or oval cutter, one inch and a quarter in diameter, cut them out, gather up the trim- mings, roll them out and use them as above. With an icing prepared with a white of an egg and two ounces of sugar mask the tops and sides of the marzipans and strew broken sugar equally over them, and in the centre stick a pistachio upright ; lay them upon sheets to bake of a fine light colour ; when cold detach them very care- fully from the paper. They may also be masked with any of the various coloured icings, putting them into a very slow oven not to brown them. This sort of marzipan may be made of filbert kernels instead of sweet almonds. 58i LXXVL— SOUDAN Menu Kusskisoo Mutabach (Wheat Meal and Egg Porridge) Kharoof Makshee (Roast Stuffed Sheep) Jammur Zerloul (Roast Squabs) Bedingan Aswet Makshi Bedingan Ahman Makshi (Stuffed Egg-Plant) (Stuffed Tomatoes) Gara Makshi (Stuffed Cucumbers) Ganiredin Rus-be-leben (Blanc Mange) (Rice and Milk) Baga-lowa Kunafa (Honey and Almond Pastry) (Almond Tart) Sharbot (Sherbet) Rus (Rice) Aswad Gahwa-t (Black Coffee) 582 SOUDAN Kusskisoo Mutabach. (Wheat Meal and Egg Porridge.) Grind some whole wheat, sift the flour and take away the husks, and sift again through a medium sieve, and what is left in the sieve is to be used. Take the coarse flour, which looks like American corn meal, and put it into a large earthenware vessel. Mix sufficient eggs with it to turn it into a dough, knead thoroughly and roll out. Afterwards work the dough in the hands by pulling it out till it is rather thicker than a pencil, and while in the pulling process break into little pellets. Put these pellets on a wire sieve, and let them dry for an hour and a half in the sun. When thoroughly dry sift them from the sieve on to a sheet of linen, and what remains are broken into smaller particles so as to allow them to pass through the sieve. Fill a pan with a gallon and a half of water, and bring to the boil, after which put in the prepared pellets and boil from seven to ten minutes. Then put them into a colander ; pour cold water over to keep the pellets from joining. Put another pan on the fire, with olive oil, and fry a couple of finely sliced onions in this, and pour over the kusskisoo, and eat with bread. Kharoof Makhshee. (Roast Stuffed Sheep.) A sheep is killed, skinned, and the whole of the entrails removed, also the head and legs. The carcase is thoroughly cleaned. Chop the liver, kidneys, heart, etc., very fine, and mix with it six finely-shred large onions, one pounded point of garlic, one ounce of pounded 5«3 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS coriander seeds, a pinch of cayenne, some white pepper, salt to taste, melted butter ; cook in a frying-pan, taking care to keep the whole from sticking together, After this is cooked brown, mix with it plenty of half- boiled rice, butter, and chopped tomatoes. The carcase is then filled with this and sewn up. An iron skewer is thrust through the whole length of the carcase to the neck, and is suspended over a previously prepared charcoal fire on supports, and kept turning by a handle. To prevent burning, a cloth soaked in melted butter is from time to time rubbed over the outside. Serve with the stuffing and bread. Jamxjr Zerloul. (Roast Squabs.) Cut half-a-dozen unfledged pigeons down the back, flatten and rub them with pepper, salt, pounded coriander, cinnamon, and cloves. Put them into a pan with boiling oil, or toast them in front of the fire. Eat with any of the stuffed vegetables and bread. Bedingan Aswet Makshi. (Stuffed Egg-Plant.) Procure some egg-plants, hollow them out, and stuff with the same paste as used for stuffing kharoof makshi, after being first roasted in a frying-pan with butter and water. They are then wrapped round with vine leaves and boiled along with egg-plants unstuffed until cooked, and eaten with rice, bread, and kusskisoo. Bedingan Ahman Makshi. (Stuffed Tomatoes.) Procure some tomatoes, hollow them out, and stuff with the same paste as used for stuffing kharoof makshi, 5 8 4 SOUDAN after first being roasted in a frying-pan with butter and water. They are then wrapped round with vine leaves and boiled along with some unstuffed tomatoes until cooked, and eaten with meats or alone. Gara Makshi. (Stuffed Cucumbers.) Procure some cucumbers, hollow them out, and stuff with the same paste as used for stuffing kharoof makshi, after first being roasted in a frying-pan with butter and water. They are then wrapped round with cabbage leaves, and boiled along with some unstuffed cucumbers until cooked, and eaten with bread, kusskisoo, or meats. Ganiredin. (Blanc Mange.) Dried peach paste is soaked and strained, and slightly boiled with rice flour and plenty of sugar. Cool off in dishes, and ornament with raisins. Rus-be-leben. (Rice and Milk.) Rice boiled in milk, cooled off, and ornamented with dates and raisins. Baga-lowa. (Honey and Almond Pastry.) Make a rich puff paste, roll out rather thin in a, sheet of about twelve inches, cover this with a mixture of powdered almonds and honey, roll up into rolls about half-an-inch thick, put them in a baking dish, pour some melted butter in, and fire in a sharp oven. 585 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Kunafa. (Almond Tart.) Make a thin paste of fine flour and water. Heat an iron plate so as to cook this paste immediately it falls upon it in fine streaks. This' is effected by pouring the paste into a metal cup which has the bottom per- forated with small holes. The cooked streaks are then put in layers into a baking dish. Between these layers is run a mixture of pounded sugar, pounded almond nuts, and rose water ; top and bottom layers must be in cakes of paste. The whole is then slightly soaked in melted butter, and baked sufficiently to colour the top brown. Sharbot. (Sherbet.) Raisins, almond nuts, dried figs, dried dates (carob), locust, and any other dried fruits, are well soaked in hot water. This liquid is cooked and drunk before and after meals ; during the meal only plain water is offered. Rice brings the finish of the repast, and after hands and mouths are washed the usual Egyptian coffee is handed round. 5 86 LXXVII.— SPAIN (North) Menu Huevos pasados por aqua (Lightly Boiled Eggs) Sopa de Arroz Sopa Nacional (Rice Soup) (Soup National) Bacalao a la Viscaina (Stewed Cod and Tomatoes) Olla Podrida Risto (Stew) Chuletas de Tocino y Salsa Catalan (Pork Cutlets and Catalan Sauce) Apio al Jugo Tomate Toreador (Stewed Celery) (Stuffed Tomatoes) Asado de Abutarda (Braised Bustard) Ensalada (Salad) Leche Crema Tajadas de Pan (Cream Biscuits) (Bread Fritters) Ron Crema Garapinada (Rum Cream Ice) Fruta (Fruit) 587 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Huevos pasados por aqua. (Lightly Boiled Eggs.) Have ready some boiling water, into which place some eggs, and boil for not longer than thirty seconds, as the whites must not on any account be cooked. Eaten out of the shell or out of glasses into which they may be poured. Sopa de Arroz (Olla). (Rice Soup.) Put into an earthen stock-pot half a quart of chick- peas, previously softened in tepid water for twelve hours ; add three pounds of brisket of beef, the third of a leg of mutton (taken off the knuckle end), two pig's feet, two pig's ears, one pound beef gristle and one pound mutton gristle (both taken from the briskets, and cut in finger lengths), also two sheep's tails cut in three pieces, half-a-pound of smoked streaky bacon, the same of raw ham (both blanched). Add some salt and pepper. Cover this meat abundantly with cold water, set the stock-pot on a blazing fire, carefully skim the liquid ; at the first bubbling remove the stock-pot to the corner of the stove, letting the liquid only simmer gently during all the time of its cooking. Two hours afterwards plunge into the stock-pot two partridges, two pigeons, two large carrots, two onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay-leaf, a bunch of leeks, and a head of celery, both tied up. An hour afterwards add three small smoked sausages and six lettuces blanched and braised. 588 SPAIN (North) Continue boiling the broth for at least six hours, carefully taking the meats out, one by one, as soon as each is done. I-Ialf-an-hour previous to serving pass the broth quite gently through a napkin into a stewpan. skim its fat, start it to ebullition, add five ounces of blanched rice, finish cooking it on a moderate fire, drain, and pour the soup into the tureen, in which some of the various meats and vegetables have been cut in pieces, the rest of the meats and vegetables being kept warm to be served as an entree. Sopa Nacional. (Soup National.) Simmer some crusts of bread (trimmed as if for soup) in some stock of the olla. Prepare some escalopes of fat livers, a plate of cocks' combs and kidneys, and a dozen of very small hard-boiled eggs. Cook the liver, cocks' combs, and kidneys in reduced Espagnole sauce, drain them and dust with flour, dip them and the eggs in the yolk of an egg, and fry a fine colour. Clear the soup and pour it over the garniture, which you have first put into the soup tureen. Bacalao a la Viscaina. (Stewed Cod and Tomatoes.) Soak two pounds of dried cod for two or three hours, and allow to dry ; repeat this process till the fish is quite soft. Place it in water and simmer very gently for an hour and a half. Then remove all bones and 589 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS skin, and cut into neat pieces, which place in a pan with half a cupful of good oil, four sliced tomatoes, a sliced onion, and a little cayenne. Simmer very gently at the side of the fire till the fish is sufficiently cooked, but be sure not to boil, otherwise it may either become hard or stringy. Strain the gravy and mix in a little crayfish cullis. Olla Podrida Risto. (Stew.) Take some of the different meats and vegetables that the olla podrida soup (rice soup) was made of, and arrange them neatly on a dish and keep warm. Then reduce a quantity of the soup to a semi-glaze, and pour over the meats and serve quickly. Surround with a border of rice, accompanied with a sauceboatful of Madeira tomato sauce. Chuletas de Tocino y Salsa Catalan. (Pork Cutlets and Catalan Sauce.) Cut up six pork cutlets ; pare, beat, season, and broil them over a good fire fourteen or fifteen minutes ; dish up, and mask them with Catalan sauce. Catalan Sauck. Chop one onion, put it into a stewpan with a dozen blanched cloves of garlic, and some oil ; colour them gently, and moisten with a little broth, which reduce to a glaze. The garlic should now be done. Moisten anew with a little thickened gravy ; let the sauce 590 SPAIN (North) boil, add to it a pinch of chopped parsley, a little cayenne, a little shred mint, the pulp of a lemon and two bitter oranges (peeled) in quarters. When ready to serve the sauce, add a tablespoonful of good mustard diluted with Madeira. Apio al Jugo. (Stewed Celery.) Cut two heads of celery into pieces about four inches long ; wash these well, put them into a saucepan of water; parboil, drain, and put them into another stew- pan with a small quantity of oil, and toss them over the fire for a few minutes. Add a large apple cut in slices, and an orange skinned and freed from pips ; pour over sufficient beef or mutton gravy to moisten, and simmer gently at the side of the fire until the whole is quite done. Take out the pieces of celery, put them on a dish, pour over the sauce (to which has been added the yolk of two eggs), pass through a fine sieve, and serve with the pork cutlets as a separate dish. Tomate Toreador. (Stuffed Tomatoes.) Take six good-sized firm red tomatoes, wipe and cut them into halves, through the sides. Place half-a-gill of sweet oil in a frying-pan, let it heat well, lay in the tomatoes on the sides which were cut, and cook briskly for one minute. Butter well a tin baking-dish, lay the tomatoes on this on the uncooked sides, and season with half a pinch each of salt and pepper. Make a stuffing with a shallot finely chopped, two cloves of S9 1 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS crushed garlic, two hard-boiled eggs, one teaspoonful of chopped chives, the same of parsley, two medium-sized finely-chopped anchovies, and one ounce of butter. Mix well together in a bowl, and cover the tops of the tomatoes with the stuffing, dividing it equally. Sprinkle a little fresh breadcrumbs over them, drop three or four drops of clarified butter over each tomato, and put them in a very hot oven for eight minutes. Place them on a hot dish, and serve as a separate dish, with some Espagnole sauce poured into the dish. Spanish Sauce. (Espagnole.) Lay in a deep stewpan, seven inches wide, two slices of lean ham, half an inch thick ; upon the ham place a knuckle of veal and two partridges, with as much beef stock as will cover the veal only ; cover it and put it over a quick stove ; when the stock is reduced, lay hot cinders on the top of the fire, that the veal may sweat slower and all the gravy be drawn out, which, producing more glaze, renders the sauce more perfect When it is nearly down, do not leave it, lest the glaze catches. This care is essential, for if it catches it gives a disagreeable odour and bitterness to the taste. (The stock used in drawing the veal down should have as little salt in it as possible.) When it begins to take a light brown colour, and little or no liquor remains, take it from the fire and run a knife through the veal, that the gravy it contains may be added with the glaze. Throw some ashes on the fire, and replace the stewpan for nearly an hour ; watch the glaze until it takes a 59 2 SPAIN (North) clear red colour. To discover the proper degree, dip the point of the knife into the glaze, and, taking a little from it, roll it between your fingers ; if sufficiently down it will form itself into a ball, but if not it will stick to the fingers. If at the proper point, take off the stewpan and set it on one side for a quarter of an hour, that the glaze may more easily dissolve ; then fill it up with consomme or beef stock, and set it at the corner of the stove. (If no partridges can be obtained, the carcases of two rabbits, or one whole one, will afford an agreeable flavour.) When it boils, skim it, and make a roux (thickening) with four ounces of oil or butter, adding as much sifted flour as will make it a little stiff ; put it over a slow fire, and stir it often, that it may receive equally and gradually a light gold colour. Pour into this roux two ladlefuls of stock, stirring it continually (but remove it from the fire) till it becomes quite smooth, then add more stock, and stir it until smooth and well mixed ; then pour it back on the veal, add a bunch of parsley and shallot, with half a bay-leaf, a little thyme, two cloves, and, above all, some trimmings of mushrooms. Let it go gently at the corner of the stove, skim it, and after an hour's boiling take off the fat, and after another hour and a half again skim it, and pass it through a tammy ; stir it occa- sionally with a spoon, that the surface may not be covered with a skin formed by the action of the air. Thus attended this should be an Espagnole of a good flavour, though not salt ; its colour a clear lively red, although light. 593 2 p BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Asado de Abutarda. (Braised Bustard.) Hang till tender but not "high" ; then dress, and remove tip of wings, and cut off the neck; divide the thighs from the back, and the back from the breast; lard them with fat bacon, season with pepper, salt, aromatic spices, and a crushed point of garlic ; put in an earthen pan, pour over half a pint of wine vinegar, and soak for twenty-four hours, turning every few hours. Line the bottom and sides of a stockpot with thin layers of fat bacon, slice a few small onions and a couple of carrots over the bacon, on which lay two calf's feet blanched and boned. Sprinkle with a pinch each of cloves, peppercorns, and aromatics, and then put on top of all the backbone, legs, and breast, previously drained ; again sprinkle with spices, moisten with white wine to about half their height, and cover all with thin slices of fat bacon, and close the lid very carefully. Put the stockpot in hot ashes to about half its height, and let the bird stew for six or seven hours, when it ought to be quite tender. Dish the pieces of bird neatly, and garnish with the vegetables and calf's feet. Strain the stock, and remove all the fat very carefully, thickening with half a pint of Spanish sauce, and pour over the meat. Serve with slices of potatoes fried in oil. Spanish Sauce. Cut into moderate-sized pieces some veal and trimmings and giblets of fowl, put them into a saucepan with a slice of ham and a little butter, and fry them till brown ; 594 SPAIN (North) then put in half a pint each of white wine and demi- partridge cullis, and the juice of a lemon. Let the sauce simmer by the side of the fire for a few hours, then strain it through a fine hair sieve, skim off the fat, put it in the saucepan again, and thicken it over the fire with a little more partridge cullis unreduced. It is then ready. Ensalada. (Salad.) Bleach two heads of endive, and arrange them in a mound in the middle of a dish ; peel four rather large tomatoes, divide them in sections, and place them round the endive. Boil some eggs hard, and when cold cut them into halves ; scoop the yolks out care- fully, being careful not to break the whites, and put them in a mortar ; pick some shrimps or lobster, and put them in the mortar with the yolks, and pound to a paste. Fill the hollow of the whites with the paste, level it off at the top, and arrange them round the tomatoes. Mix together one tablespoonful of water, one tablespoonful of vinegar, four of oil, some salt and pepper, and pour it over the salad. Sprinkle on top very finely chopped leaves of tarragon, chervil, and a little burnet, also some finely chopped chives. Serve immediately the dressing is put in. Leche Crema. (Cream Biscuits. ) Whisk the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, mix in the yolks of three eggs and half a pound of powder sugar, then add half a pound of flour, six ounces of almonds split into several pieces, four ounces of finely-cut 595 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS candied peel, lemon, and half an ounce each of ground coriander seeds and cinnamon. When the preparation is thoroughly mixed put it into a biscuit forcer, squeeze it out on wafer-paper in drops about the size of walnuts or a little larger, and bake in a slack oven. Take them out when done, brush the surfaces with thin white sugar icing, dry well in a dry closet or screen, take them out, and they are ready for use. Before putting in the dry closet put a piece of green citron peel upon each. Tajadas de Pan. (Bread Fritters.) Cut some slices of bread, remove the crusts, and cut the slices into any shape liked. Moisten each with a few drops of brandy. Beat up two eggs with half a pint of milk, and mix in smoothly sufficient flour to make a batter. Pour the batter over the pieces of bread, and leave them for an hour. Melt a lump of lard or clarified fat in a flat stewpan, put in the pieces of bread, and fry them a pale golden brown. Drain, spread a small quantity of any kind of preserve over them, arrange on a hot dish, garnished with a dish-paper or folded napkin, and serve hot, with orange or lemon cream sauce. Orange Cream Sauce. Make half a pint of thin sweet custard in the milk of which you have cooked the grated rind of two sweet oranges. Strain, and whilst still hot add the juice of one orange and half a wineglass of cura9oa liqueur. It should not be thicker than cream. If to be served 596 SPAIN (North) cold, mix in two tablespoonfuls of double cream whipped to a froth. Lemon Cream Sauce. Make the sauce same as above, using lemon and brandy instead of the oranges and curacoa. Ron Crema Garapinada. (Rum Cream Ice.) Dilute in a basin three tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with one glass curdled milk. Whip in a kitchen basin eight yolks of eggs ; mix up with it nearly a quarter pound of fine sugar and half a tablespoonful of potato flour. Dilute the preparation gradually with nearly half a pint of cold water, which pass through a sieve into a stewpan, and thicken it, without allowing it to boil, like an English cream. Pour it immediately into a kitchen basin, stir until nearly cold, add to the preparation nine leaves of clarified gelatine, as well as the diluted marmalade, and pass it through a sieve once more. Try its consistence on the ice, let it cool entirely, pour it into a coated mould, embedded with ice. When about to serve, dip the mould in warm water; turn the cream out on a cold dish. Creme de Menthe. Put twenty-five drops of oil of mint and three drops of oil of citron into a quart of spirits at least 60 degrees overproof ; shake it well, then add one quart of syrup. Colour green, filter carefully, and bottle. Use after two years. 597 LXXVIII.— SPAIN (South) Menu Oliva y Queso (Olives and Cheese) Sopa de Cebollas (Onion Soup) Salmonete (Red Mullets) Tortillas con Papas (Potato Omelet) Paella Conijo Estofado (Stewed and Baked Meats) (Rabbit Stew) Alondras Cocidas en Marmita (Braised Larks) Gazpacho (Bread Salad) Cabellos de Angel Tartinas (Angel's Hair) (Tartlets) Fruta (Fruit) 598 SPAIN (South) Oliva y Queso. (Olives and Cheese.) Stone carefully twelve green olives. Place in a bowl half an ounce each of cream and grated cheese, two salt- spoonfuls of salt, one saltspoonful paprica, half a tea- spoonful chopped parsley, the same of chervil, and one teaspoonful anchovy essence. Mix until a smooth paste, and fill the olives with it. Sopa de Cebollas. (Onion Soup.) Peel and cut in small dice six large onions, put them in a pan with four ounces of oil, and fry a light brown ; then add a tablespoonful of flour, and rather more than less of a quart of water ; boil until the onions are quite soft, pass the whole through a sieve, season with a spoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper and sugar. Before serving add the yolks of three eggs whipped up in a tumblerful of cream (or two tumblerfuls of milk reduced to half the quantity), and stir well over a gentle heat, being careful that it does not boil. Cut the crust of a French roll into strips, place them in the tureen and pour the soup over. Salmonete. (Red Mullets.) Place two red mullets upon a strong dish, not too large, sprinkle over a little chopped parsley and onions, a little pepper and salt, and a little salad oil ; put them into a warm oven for half an hour. Serve with onion sauce poured over or in a separate sauceboat. 599 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Onion Sauce. Put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions in a stewpan with a teaspoonful of salad oil, stir over a moderate fire until getting rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of sherry, half a pint of white sauce, with a little chopped parsley ; reduce over a sharp fire, stirring until it becomes rather thick. May be served with any meats or fish. Tortillas con Papas. (Potato Omelet.) Break six eggs in a basin or stewpan, and add to it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and one of chopped shallot or spring onions, half ditto of salt, and a pinch of pepper, and beat it well up together. Then add two large cooked watery potatoes cut in small dice. Put into an omelet-pan two ounces of oil, then pour in the egg mixture ; stir round with a spoon. As soon as it begins to set lightly move it to that part of the pan opposite the handle, so that it occupies only one- third ; hold it so that that part of the pan is the lowest ; move with a spoon the outside edges over, and let it remain half a minute, so that it receives a good colour ; turn it over on to the dish so that the bottom is at the top. It must not be too much done, and served very hot. Asparagus, ham, kidneys, mushrooms, and tomatoes chopped fine may be substituted for the potatoes. Paella. (Stewed and Baked Meats.) Cut a chicken into twelve pieces, a, pigeon into three, a pound of beef into inch squares, a quarter pound of 600 SPAIN (South) fat bacon into dice, and two small smoked sausages into quarter-inch thick slices. Put these in a pot with a gallon of slightly salted water, a half pound of green peas, a half pound of soaked beans, three onions cut in quarters, and one carrot sliced, and a handful of stoned olives ; bring to the boil, and skim very carefully. Then simmer at the side of the fire till all the meats are tender, having first added six potatoes cut in quarters, and a seasoning of pepper and salt. Strain the gravy and reduce to a semi-glaze. Put the meats, etc., into a deep dish, and pour the gravy over. Soak half a pound of rice for three hours ; drain thoroughly. Put four ounces of oil in a pan ; when boiling add the rice with a teaspoonful of saffron, and fry lightly. When cooked spread it in a thick layer over the meats, and put into a quick oven to brown. Conijo Estofado. (Rabbit Stew.) Joint a large young rabbit, cut the back into three pieces, blanch in boiling water for two or three minutes, drain thoroughly, and fry lightly in boiling oil. Chop a large onion and fry till lightly browned in oil, after which place it in a pan along with the fried pieces of rabbit, a bouquet of fine herbs, a large breakfast- cupful of good brown stock, a wineglassful of port wine, some salt, and a good dash of cayenne pepper. Stew slowly for an hour and a half, remove fine herbs, and dish. Grouse, partridges, pheasants, hare, and wild pigeons may be cooked in the same way. 601 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Alondras Cocidas en Marmita. (Braised Larks.) Bone the required number of larks, and stuff them with chicken forcemeat, putting a truffle turned to a ball in the middle. Tie each lark up in a small piece of muslin cloth, so that they may keep a good shape, and braise in Madeira and a little herb and vegetable essence generally known as Mirepoix. Put a layer of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, take the cloths off the larks, arrange them on the top of the potatoes, reduce some Madeira sauce with essence of larks, pour over, and serve. Essence of Vegetables and Herbs. Take two carrots, two onions, two shallots, two bay leaves, a sprig of thyme, a clove of garlic, and mince them together with a half pound each of fat bacon and raw ham. Toss these in a saute-pan with two ounces of butter and salt to season. Stew with a half pint of red or white wine, and add to stock or sauce as required. Gazpacho. (Bread Salad.) Put in a bowl (the bottom of which you have rubbed with a piece of garlic) a large cupful of breadcrumbs, three sliced tomatoes, one cucumber sliced, one shallot minced, and a little minced tarragon. Pour over this a dressing made of one tablespoonful of water, one tablespoonful of oil, half that quantity of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a good pinch of pepper. Mix all well together and serve as a separate dish. 602 SPAIN (South) Cabellos de Angel. (Angel's Hair.) Take an equal quantity of citron and white cane sugar ; wipe the fruit and cut in halves, remove all the pips, and squeeze all the juice and as much of the flesh as possible into a pan. Boil the skins until tender, and remove all the white pith from them. Cut into thin strips and boil with the sugar and juice till it is a firm jelly. Eaten by itself, or may be used with pastry or puddings. Tartinas. (Tartlets.) Cut, off a common French dinner roll, a few crusts of oblong shape, an eighth of an inch thick ; sprinkle over fine sugar, let them glaze in the oven, mask them with a layer of apricot marmalade, and arrange them in a circular order on a dish. Now fill the hollow of this circle with a garnish of half-preserved chestnuts mixed up with a few tablespoonfuls of Smyrna raisins, mask them with curacoa liqueur, and sprinkle over minced pistachios. Send up some punch sauce, likewise prepared with curafoa. Punch Sauce. Take the juice and rind of a lemon, half a clove, two large tablespoonfuls of sugar, pour a breakfastcupful of boiling water over, stand at side of fire for an hour. Cool off and strain. Now add a wineglassful of curacoa, and half the quantity of brandy. Cook a teaspoonful of Indian corn flour in a little orange flower water, and when off the fire stir in gradually the liquor mixture. 603 LXXIX.— SYRIA Menu Shourabat Idjaj (Chicken Soup) Samak Muckly Sy-yehdeayeh (Fried Fish) (Fish Pies) Coosa Mahsheh (Farced Vegetable Marrows) Daoud Pasha Riz Riz B'titbeeka (Meat Balls and Rice) (Meat and Rice Shape) Mishmush Matbook (Stewed Apricots) Bedowie Sheikh (Roast Lamb, Boiled Potatoes and Salad) Kibbeh Yekhnee (Roast Mince) (Stewed Meat with Cauliflower) Maah Lahem Mafroum (Macaroni with Mince) Majudra (Esau's Pottage) Stafithi Helvah Ahjeen Helloo (Grape Paste) (Sweet Pastry) Fakihat (Fruit) 604 SYRIA Shourabat Idjaj. (Chicken Soup.) Make a good stock of an old fowl, with some giblets, feet, etc., of chickens. Add all kinds of vegetables, and a good bunch of parsley; flavour with cinnamon, pepper and salt. Strain, and clear, and before serving put in some rice boiled with butter and water. Samak Muckly. (Fried Fish.) Fillet some good fish, dry well, dust in flour, and fry in oil. Serve with cut lemons. Sy-yehdeayeh. (Fish Pies.) Make a little dough as for bread, but moister. Let it rise well, then make into small round cakes rather larger than a tea biscuit, and a quarter of an inch thick. Arrange them in rows in a well-buttered tin. Cut some well-soaked salt fish freed from skin and bones into small bits, and fry it with chopped onions and snowbar seeds till it is half-done. Season with pepper, salt, cinnamon, and lemon juice. Next take a tablespoonful of this mixture, put it on the top of each dough cake, and put into a moderate oven till it is baked enough. The dough must be quite light. Coosa Mahsheh. (Farced Vegetable Marrows.) Take young fresh vegetable marrows, six inches long ; scoop out the inside, leaving the bottom whole ; let them remain in water till your stuffing is ready. 605 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Mince one pound and a half of fat lamb ; mix a pound of rice, well washed and drained ; add pepper and salt to taste. Fill the vegetable marrows with this mixture, leaving room for the rice to swell ; lay them close, like herrings in a barrel ; let them only be covered with water, adding a little salt and the juice of three tomatoes. Cook slowly for two hours. Serve with leban, or a plainly dressed salad. Leban or Curds. To make a leban take a tumbler and a half of milk, bring it to the boil, pour it into a basin, and let it cool until you can put your little finger in and count ten. If it is too hot it will get watery, and if it is colder than that it will not thicken. Take a teaspoonful of lemon juice and put it in three places in the basin ; stir it gently till you think it is well mixed ; put it in a warm place, with a plate over it ; cover it first with a clean cloth and then with a woollen shawl or thick piece of flannel. Let no air get to it, and stand for seven hours without being moved. Yon may now use it either with sweet milk or sugar, or preserves. Save a little of this in a cup (say a tablespoonful), and the second time you make it, when your milk is ready as above, use no lemon, but add a little warm milk to what you set aside in the cup ; make it smooth, and add three teaspoonfuls of the same, putting it in three different places in the basin. Stir it softly, as above, and cover it as in the first stage. The third time you do this it 606 SYRIA should bring it to the thickness of slaked lime. Always keep a little of the leban you make in a cup for the next time you want to use it. How to Bon. Rice in Native Fashion. Steep two pounds of rice in water. Put on the fire a clean saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter ; let this boil on the fire ; it is ready when it frizzles. Add a quart and a half of water ; let it boil. Wash the rice in two or three waters, rubbing it in your hands ; strain it thoroughly, put it into the saucepan, adding a little salt ; put a wooden spoon in the middle, and if it will stand straight without holding it the water is enough, but if it falls the water is too much. Cover it close with a lid, and cook on a slow fire, without stirring. When it is ready, after an hour's cooking, take the end of a spoon and stir it ; every particle will be separate. Daoud Pasha Riz. (Meat Balls and Rice.) Take two pounds of lean meat, pound it in the mortar as you did for " kibby," with a pinch of pounded caraway seed, and pepper and salt to taste. Take a piece of the pounded meat the size of a good-sized marble, put it on the palm of your hand, and with your finger beat it flat ; then take two snowbar seeds (pine cone seeds or pistachio nuts) and fold the meat over this. Fry them in cooking butter till they are a nice brown ; take them out, clear from fat, and put them into a pot. 607 SYRIA Then take eight or ten good-sized onions cut small, fry them in the same fat you fried the balls of meat in, until brown ; drain them from fat, put them with the meat, add a handful of snowbar (pine cone seeds or pistachio nuts) on the top of all ; squeeze the juice of three or four good-sized tomatoes through a strainer over the whole in a pot, add a tumblerful of water ; stir the whole with a spoon, taking care not to break the balls of meat, and season to taste. This is served with a good dish of rice. Riz B'titbeeka. (Meat and Rice Shape.) Take three tablespoonfuls of butter, and make it thoroughly hot in a saucepan ; add to it three dinner- glassfuls of rice, put them in the saucepan, stir with the butter for a short time, and pour over them six glassfuls of boiling water, with about a dessertspoonful of salt, then boil till the rice has soaked up all the water and is quite soft. Take another saucepan, butter it well all round the sides and bottom, sprinkle pounded bread- crumbs over the butter on the sides and bottom ; put the boiled rice in a thick layer over the bottom of the saucepan, and a thinner layer round the sides, leaving room in the centre for a mixture of minced meat fried with onions and snowbars, seasoned with pepper and salt and tomato pulp. Cover the mixture over with a layer of boiled rice, return the saucepan to the fire, which should be quite a low clear one with just sufficient heat to toast the breadcrumbs a nice brown. Turn 608 SYRIA out the rice on to a round dish, where it will stand as a perfect mould if the rice is of the proper consistency and not too moist. Serve with leben or a lettuce dressed with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. Mishmush Matbook. (Stewed Apricots.) Make a good strong syrup of sugar and water, and after clearing it put in some apricots (so that they are covered) and stew very gently till cooked. Serve cold. Bedowie Sheikh. (Roast Lamb.) Skin it whole ; the head and trotters to be left on the lamb. Clean the inside from all impurities, wipe it dry, and dust with pepper and salt. Take the liver, heart, and a pound of meat ; mince them small. Have ready a pound of rice half-boiled (in native fashion) and half a pound of snowbars, pine cones, or pistachio nuts. Mix all together with pepper and salt to taste, and a seasoning of cinnamon, which put inside the lamb and sew it up. Put the head between its feet, smear it well over with clarified dripping in a baking-pan ; baste with plenty of clarified dripping when roasting. There is no other dish put on the table with it except a dish of rice ; but serve boiled potatoes and salad made of sliced cucumbers and dressed with leben (sour curds) . Kibbeh. (Roasted Mince.) Take six pounds of lean meat without fat and pound it in a stone mortar with a wooden pestle of oak. The meat is beaten till it is very fine, taking care to take out 609 2 Q BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS all the stringy fibres as they appear. When finished put it on a plate. Wash six pounds of crushed wheat in two waters, soak for six hours, and squeeze dry with the hand ; mix with the meat and knead them together. Take three or four onions of a moderate size, pound them in a mortar with pepper and salt according to taste ; then knead all together. In a baking pan well smeared with clarified dripping put one layer of the ingredients half an inch thick ; press it with the hand to make it firm. Take eight onions cut fine and half a pound of meat minced small, also a quarter of a pound of snowbars pine cone seeds or pistachio nuts, fry them in butter with pepper and salt and a slight flavouring of aniseed until they are brown ; add this to the meat already in the pan. Then put the remainder of the kibbeh on the top ; press it down with the hand. With a knife make diamonds on the face, letting the knife touch the bottom of every diamond ; then add on the top of this a quantity of cooking butter. Spread it all over so that it will sink through. Bake in the oven until it is a deep brown. It must be eaten hot. No vegetables are required. The salad that is eaten with this is made as follows : — Take the juice of two or three lemons and a handful of parsley cut fine ; add a little water until it is the thickness of cream; add salt to taste. Yekhnee. (Stewed Meat with Cauliflower.) Cut up a good-sized cauliflower into pieces about the size of a large potato ; wash well and fry in boiling 610 SYRIA fat till brown. Take them out of the pan, and in the same fat fry the beef or mutton (either will do), which should be cut into pieces about as big as an egg. When browned take it out and fry chopped onions in the same fat. When these are nicely browned, return the meat and cauliflower to the saucepan with the onions ; pour over them just enough water to cover, and stew for about half an hour over a gentle fire. Season with salt and pepper, and flavour with tomato sauce and a little lemon juice if liked. Serve with this a dish of rice boiled with butter in the proportion of one glassful of rice, two glassfuls of water, one tablespoonful of salt, and butter, till the rice has soaked up all the water. Maah Lahem Mafroum. (Macaroni with Mince.) Mince some chicken. Melt a good bit of butter and fry an onion in it. Then put in the mince and fry it, stirring all the time till cooked. Boil some macaroni cut in two-inch lengths. Strain and stir in some burnt butter and grated cheese, and flavour with pepper and salt. Put the macaroni on a flat dish, and heap the mince on top. Majudra. (Esau's Pottage.) Boil three glassfuls of lentils until quite soft, pound them through a strainer with the water in which they were boiled, and throw away the hard skin which will be left in the strainer. Put a glassful and a half 6n BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS of rice (which should be well washed and cleaned) in a saucepan with the pounded lentils, along with a cupful of oil and three sliced onions first fried in some oil. If these are not sufficiently liquid add a little more water, as the majudra when finished must be of the consistency of porridge, and the rice soaks up a good deal of the water. Stir well all the time, so that it does not stick to the bottom of the pan ; also add about a tablespoonful of salt. When thoroughly cooked, pour into a deep dish, and cover the surface with onions cut lengthwise in long narrow strips, fried in olive oil till nicely browned. Stafithi Helvah. (Grape Paste.) Take the juice of the grape and mix some flour in it, with plenty of sugar. Put on the fire and stir till the flour is cooked. Then pour the mixture on to a tin with sides, and when cold cut into about two-inch squares. Ahjeen Heixoo. (Sweet Pastry.) Pull some rich puff pastry into hair-like masses. These are taken (a little at a time) and rolled into rolls of two fingers in thickness and placed in a well-buttered or oiled pan. A little butter or oil is poured over them, and after being well sprinkled with cinnamon they are browned in the oven. When taken from the oven hot melted honey is poured over them. 612 LXXX.— SWEDEN Menu Mjolk ost Pudding Torksrom Pastag (Custard Cheese Pudding) (Scallops of Cod's Roe) Sardiner Skifvor of Korf, Ost, Rostadt brod och Smor (Sardines) (Smoked Sausages, Cheese, Toast and Butter) Klar Buljong med Klimpor (Clear Soup with Dumplings) Korsbarsuppe (Cherry Soup) Torskhuvud och Skolder Fisk Pudding (Dressed Cod's Head and Shoulders) (Fish Pudding) KalfFrikasse Kokta Hons med Ris och Ost (Fricasse of Veal) (Boiled Fowl with Rice and Cheese) Stekt Svinerigg (Baked Shoulder of Pork) Snoripa mit Yokal (Zephyrs of Ptarmigan and Sea-Kale) Sallat (Salad) Alma Pudding Munkar ( Al ma Pudding) (Pancakes) Blabar Glasse (Bilberry Ice Cream) Frukt (Fruit) 613 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Mjolk ost Pudding. (Custard Cheese Pudding.) Boil for three minutes one pint of milk with half a bay-leaf, an anchovy, and just a grate of nutmeg. Pour this on to three whipped eggs with a tablespoonful of grated cheese, a pinch of mustard and pepper mixed in them. Put this in a pudding-dish and bake for twenty-five minutes, or it may be steamed and turned out on to a dish. Custard pudding is made the same way, only sub- stitute one ounce of sugar for the grated cheese and other seasonings. Torskrom Pastag. (Scallops of Cod's Roe.) Cook about three-quarters of a pound of roe. Take one teaspoonful each of corn and wheaten flours and mix them with one tablespoonful of water. Next take three tablespoonfuls of the liquor in which the roe was boiled while it is still at boiling point, stir it into the flour mixture, adding half an ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, and a little cayenne pepper, and put it over a brisk fire, stirring until it gets quite thick. Mix this with the roe, which you have first passed through a wire sieve ; put it on a dish well buttered and sprinkled with sifted bread- crumbs. Spread out the roe evenly to about one inch in thickness, and cover with more breadcrumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper ; melt a little butter, spread it over the top, and then bake for twenty minutes in a quick oven. If it is not well browned in this time use a salamander to finish it. 614 SWEDEN Klar Buljong med Klimpor. (Clear Soup with Dumplings.) Chop up together one carrot, half a turnip, one leaf of a white cabbage, two tablespoonfuls of peas, and one tablespoonful of French beans, adding one ounce of butter, half a tablespoonful of salt, and a very little pepper. Keep the preparation very thick, and cook for twenty minutes in a saucepan, adding two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese. Cut three French rolls into halves, take out the crumb, fill them with the mixture, sprinkle the tops with more cheese and a little warmed butter, putting them into the oven for two minutes, and serve in a hot soup-tureen, with three pints of consomme poured over. Korsbarsuppe. (Cherry Soup.) Pound three pounds of cherries, break the stones and pound the kernels. Boil this in three pints of water. Strain, and boil the cherries and stones again ; strain, and add to the first liquor. Put in a pot with a stick of cinnamon, three cloves, and sugar to sweeten, and boil for twenty minutes. Serve with sweet dumplings put in the soup-tureen. Sweet Dumplings. Beat one whole egg and the white of another ; add a dessertspoonful of fine sugar and four cardamoms ground to a powder. Stir in two large cups of fresh breadcrumbs. When well mixed flour the hands and make into balls the size of small walnuts. Plunge them 6i5 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS into boiling water two or three at a time, so that the water may not come off the boil, and cook for twenty minutes. Torskhuvud och Skolder. (Dressed Cod's Head and Shoulders.) Rub the fish with salt overnight, taking off the scales, but do not wash it. When to be dressed, wash it clean, then quickly dash boiling water over the upper side, and with a blunt knife take off the slime which will ooze out, taking great care not to break the skin. Do the same to the other side of the fish ; then place it on the strainer, wipe it clean, and plunge it into a large pan of boiling water with a handful of salt and a half-pint of vinegar, and boil slowly from thirty to forty minutes. After draining, slide it carefully on to a deep dish and brush with yolks of eggs, over which strew fine breadcrumbs, grated lemon peel, pepper and salt. Stick numerous bits of butter over the fish, and set it before a clear fire, strewing more crumbs, lemon peel, and minced parsley over it, and basting with the butter. Wipe clean the edges of the dish in which the fish is crisping, and pour the half of the sauce around it, serving the rest in a tureen, Garnish with fried oysters, small fried flounders, and pickled samphire, or slices of lemon. White Sauce. Take a quart of veal or beef stock in which onion, carrot, and turnip have been boiled ; thicken it with butter kneaded in flour, strain it, add half a hundred oysters nicely picked and bearded, and a glassful of their liquor, two glasses of Madeira or sherry, the juice 616 SWEDEN of a lemon^ and the hard meat of a boiled lobster cut into small pieces, the soft part pounded. Boil for five minutes, and skim well. Fisk Pudding. (Fish Pudding.) Pound in a mortar till smooth half a pound of sole, with two tablespoonfuls of fish stock made from the trimmings. Pass it through a fine wire sieve. Mix it with half a pint of switched cream, and season with white pepper, grated nutmeg, and salt. Have ten zephyr-moulds well buttered ; fill them three-quarters full with the mixture, put them on in a stewpan with a little boiling water in the bottom, covered with buttered white paper cut exactly the size of the pan, and steam slowly for twenty minutes, without boiling. Turn out and dish, and serve with lobster sauce. Bream, cod, haddock, ling, plaice, and whiting may be cooked the same way. Lobster Sauce. Take half a pint of white sauce (milk, butter, and flour), add to it a glass of burgundy, and small pieces of lobster; season with pepper, salt, a pinch of mace, and last of all a squeeze of lemon. Kalffrikasse. (Fricassee of Veal.) The breast is the part to use. Cut it into two-and- a-half-inch squares, lay them in a stewpan, season with salt and pepper, and just cover with warm water ; place the pan over a moderate fire, and when on the point of 617 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS boiling, stop, drain off the water, refresh the meat with a douche of cold water, replace it in the stewpan, and moisten with good broth ; bring slowly to the boil, skimming carefully ; add six ounces of onions, the same of turnip, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer now until tender. Take the pan from the fire, drain off the broth, skim it, lay the pieces of meat on a dish, trim neatly ; turn the broth to a white sauce with an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour, give it a flavouring with mace, pass it through a hair sieve, stir in the yolks of two raw eggs, pour over the meat, place it in a clean stewpan, heat up gently but without actual boiling, and serve. Mushrooms as a rule accompany a fricasse, in which case the peelings are cooked with the stew, and the mushrooms themselves in the sauce, thus flavouring it nicely. Chickens, rabbits, and sweetbreads may be cooked the same way, but with the latter you will remove all fat from the sweetbreads after douching them in cold water. Veal, chicken, rabbits, and sweetbreads a la fin- anciere are made exactly the same as the fricassee, with the addition of cocks' combs, truffles, small white mushrooms, small forcemeat balls and two large table- spoonfuls of double cream. Kokta Hons med Ris och Ost. (Boiled Fowl with Rice and Cheese.) Make a mince with beef marrow, the gizzard and liver of a large fowl, and a little finely-grated bread- crumb, seasoned well with salt and pepper. Bone and 618 SWEDEN stuff a fowl with the mixture, and cover with slices of fat bacon tied on with string. Put it into a saucepan just large enough to hold it, and add a bunch of parsley, two cloves, a few peppercorns, and two smoked sausages ; pour over hot rich broth to about half its height, set the pan on the fire, and boil. Before pouring in the broth, see that it is well strained, and the fat skimmed off. When the liquor has been boiling for five minutes remove the pan to the side of the fire, and simmer the contents for forty or fifty minutes — that is, until done. Put three quarters of a pound of well-washed rice into a saucepan; add (to about three times its height) the liquor from the fowl after it has been well strained but the fat left in, and put it on the fire to boil ; then remove it to the side until the rice is cooked, being careful that it does not dry up ; mix in a large lump of butter, some grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese, a little grated nutmeg, and a good cupful of white cullis. White Cullis. Cut a piece of veal into small bits, with some thin slices of ham, and two onions cut in four pieces ; moisten with broth seasoned with mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, green onions, three cloves, and mace, and stew for three hours. Take out all the meats and roots with a skimmer ; put in a few crumbs of bread, and let it stew softly for half an hour. Take the white of a fowl or a couple of chickens, and pound it in a mortar till quite smooth. Mix it in the stock and stew ; it must not boil. Your cullis must be very 619 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS white, but if it is not white enough add half a pound of ground and pounded sweet almonds, and a glassful of boiled milk. Season with pepper and salt, and strain. It may be used for all sorts of white soups. Stekt Svinerigg. (Baked Shoulder of Pork.) Peel, boil, and wash one quart of potatoes, seasoning them highly with salt, pepper, and pounded sage. Remove all the bones from a shoulder of pork, cutting from the inside, and leaving the meat as whole as possible ; season the inside, stuff the mashed potatoes into the cavity, and sew up the shoulder so as to restore its original shape. If the skin is left on, scrape it with a dull knife, wipe it with a wet cloth, and then score it in half-inch squares. Put the meat into a very moderate oven, so that it may cook slowly and thoroughly, allowing twenty minutes to the pound, and serve it with a sharp white sauce. If the gravy is desired make it as follows : After the pork is done, take it up, remove the strings, and keep it hot; pour out of the pan all but two tablespoonfuls of the dripping, set the pan over the fire, stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and let it brown ; then stir in enough boiling water to make a gravy of the proper consistency, season with salt and pepper, let it boil for a moment, and then serve it with the meat. Sharp White Sauce. Pare, core, and slice four ounces of apples. Put them in a pan, and just cover with white wine, and 620 SWEDEN stew till all the wine is reduced. Pass the pulp through a sieve into a bowl ; when cold, stir in the same quantity of finely-grated horse-radish, and a gill of mayonnaise sauce. Serve in a sauceboat. Snoripa mit Yokal. (Zephyrs of Ptarmigan.) Take out the meat from the breast of three ptarmigans, pare, pound it in a mortar ; when converted into paste, add (by degrees) half its volume of good butter, and five or six yolks of eggs ; season the preparation, pass it through a sieve, put it into a kitchen basin, work it with a wooden spoon for a few minutes, then introduce into it the white of an egg whipped up, and about the same quantity of whipped cream. When well mixed up, pour the preparation into a timbale- mould, and poach in a bain marie for twenty-five minutes. When about to serve, turn it out on a dish, and mask with a little bechamel sauce reduced with a few tablespoonfuls of meat glaze. Bechamel Sauce. Cut two pounds of the lean of a breast or knuckle of white veal, and a quarter pound of lean fresh bacon, into small bits. Melt some butter in a well-tinned deep stewpan, and put in the meat to draw a little, and to whiten, not to brown. Mix two spoonfuls of white potato starch or rice flour very smooth with tepid water, and then put in a quart of clear broth made of veal, or as much pure water or milk. Let this stew very gently with the meat over a chafing-dish, or by 621 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS the side of the fire, for an hour and a half, having first seasoned it with a teaspoonful of white peppercorns, an onion, a few sprigs of parsley, lemon-thyme, and a bit of lemon peel. Let the sauce settle, strain it, and stir in rich sweet cream. Bring it to boil, and strain it once more. Yokal. (Sea Kale.) Clean the sea kale, tie it up in bundles, and put them into a saucepan with some salt in quickly boiling water. When the sea kale is cooked, drain it, place it on a hot dish in which have been put two slices of toast, pour over a thin white sauce or melted butter, and serve. Sallat. (Salad.) Mix together an equal quantity of cold roast beef, boiled potatoes, russet apples, and pickled herring cut in small squares. Steep four anchovies in water, drain, cut them into small pieces, and mix them with the above ingredients ; add one tablespoonful each of chopped gherkins, well-drained capers, and chopped tarragon, one tablespoonful of chopped chervil, one finely chopped hard-boiled egg, and twenty turned olives. Pour some oil and vinegar over the salad, season with salt and pepper, and serve in a salad bowl, with some freshly opened oysters on the top. Alma Pudding. (Alma Pudding.) Chop very fine a pound and a half of ox marrow which has been well cleaned. Then mix this with some 622 SWEDEN breadcrumbs, carefully cleaned currants, stoned raisins, shred candied orange and lemon peels ; add five well- whipped eggs, two glasses of brandy, two glasses of Madeira, a good bit of creamed butter, and sufficient sugar to sweeten. Mix all well together, and put in small buttered cups, and bake in the oven. Serve with a wine sauce or Sauce Roleen. Wine Sauce. Lightly beat six eggs along with four glasses of Madeira and a tablespoonful of sugar. If too thick add a little milk. Sauce Roleen. Beat the yolks of four eggs and two spoonfuls of soft white sugar, in a pan which you have standing in another pan of hot water, till the sugar is melted. Do the same with the whites of eight eggs in another pan, leaving out the sugar ; mix both together, colour a light yellow with a pinch of saffron, and flavour with strong orange flower water. You have the pan still in hot water, so continue whipping till all is firm and light. Serve in a sauceboat or pour over the pudding. Munkar. (Pancakes.) Beat a pint of sour cream till it is quite stiff. In another dish make a dough as thin as possible, with flour, milk, sugar, and a couple of eggs. Mix the cream with this. Put a piece of butter in a pan and when hot pour some mixture in, and fry both sides a light 623 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS brown ; dust with sugar and roll up, and serve with quartered lemons. Blabar Glasse. (Bilberry Ice Cream.) Crush twenty ounces of good fresh bilberries, which pass through a fine sieve or else through a tammy. Pour this puree into a sugar-pan, and mix in a few spoonfuls of sugar flavoured with vanilla. Set the pan on pounded ice in order to have the puree cooled, stirring continually. As soon as well set by the cold, introduce into it double its volume of sweetened and perfumed whipped cream, kept very firm. Then freeze. Cranberries may be substituted for the bilberries. Rye Bread. Put one tablespoonful of butter and sugar into a basin, pour over one pint of boiling milk, add one tea- spoonful of salt ; let the mixture cool, and then add half an ounce of yeast reduced in a teacupful of water. Mix in three breakfastcupfuls of rye flour, and knead well. Do all this in the morning, and let it stand in a cool pantry all night with a cloth over it. Next morning, when it is well swollen, add more rye flour, so that the dough can be easily handled, and knead long and well. Shape it into rolls about two feet long and two inches thick, with tapering ends ; place on a floured baking-tin, put in a warm place for twenty minutes to rise, make three incisions across each loaf, and bake in a good oven. 624 SWEDEN Rye Meal Cakes. Put two pounds of fine rye meal (not flour) , a dessert- spoonful of salt, and sufficient lukewarm, water to make a dough about the same consistency as double cream ; then mix in an ounce of German yeast, diluted in a little warm water. Cover, and let it stand in a warm place until it has risen to more than double its size. Add a teaspoonful of caraway seeds and more flour, till it can be easily handled. Knead thoroughly, and again cover and put in a warm place for half an hour to rise once more. Put it on a baking board and knead well; dust with flour, and roll into thin round cakes about an eighth of an inch thick and eighteen inches in diameter ; prick them with a steel fork all over; cut out a hole in the middle the size of a shilling, and bake in a quick oven till cooked. Each cake is kept separate till per- fectly cold, when the flour is brushed off and they are strung on a thin piece of wood and hung up to dry. These cakes are eaten at every meal, except tea. Yeast. Put rather less than one dessertspoonful of salt and a quarter-pound raw sugar in half a gallon of water ; add this liquor very gradually to half a pound of flour and mix well. Let it stand for two days, then mix in three pounds of peeled potatoes, boiled and mashed. Let it stand till the following day and then bottle it. When making the yeast the liquor should be kept in a warm place and stirred frequently. Two ounces or a little more will be required for nine pounds of flour. 625 2 R LXXXL— SWITZERLAND Menu En Unklari Herdopfel Subbe (Potato Soup) Sornle Garniert (Trout Garnished) Reh-coteletli mit Triibel (Venison Chops with Grapes) Hamedaler Chas-brodli (Swiss Rarebit) Lammbi mit Knopfli (Lamb with Dumplings) Vergoldete Kliechli Honig Pudig (Golden Fritters) (Honey Pudding) Friichte (Fruit) Schwarze Kaffi (Black Coffee) 626 SWITZERLAND En Unklari Herdopfel Subbe. (Potato Soup.) Cut in very thin slices three pounds of raw lean veal, four ounces raw ham, four white onions, and six leeks, and fry in two ounces of butter for ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Put in four raw potatoes thinly sliced, with a bunch of parsley, one of chervil, three bay leaves, and a teaspoonful of coriander seeds. Moisten with half a gill of white wine, three quarts of white broth, and two quarts of water ; season with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper ; mix, and let boil for ten minutes. Cover pan, and set in oven for an hour and thirty minutes ; pass the puree through a sieve into a basin, then through a very fine sieve into another pan. Place pan on a brisk fire, pour in two gills of cream with an ounce of good fresh butter, mix well, and as soon as it comes to the boil serve with bread crotons separately. Sornle Garniert. (Trout Garnished.) Put two slices of onion, two slices of carrot, a sprig of parsley, a clove, and twenty-four coriander seeds in a well-buttered baking-dish. Place on top of these a trout weighing about three pounds, the skin of which has been carefully scraped ; pour in sufficient white wine to just cover the fish, but not more. Cover closely with a well-buttered paper and steam in the oven for half an hour or longer, if need be, but see that the trout does not lose its shape. Remove the skin carefully, ■taking care not to break the flesh of the fish, and place 627 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS it in the centre of an oval dish, with its belly at the bottom and the back slightly arched. Decorate its back with thin slices of truffles, cucumber, and bottled mushrooms, and the red parts of a langouste or lobster cut in fancy shapes. Garnish the sides of the dish at the bottom with slices of truffles, cucumbers, and bottled mushrooms, and at the ends with tastefully arranged heaps of crayfish tails, pieces of langouste, or lobster, and small potatoes twice the size of a hazel nut. Serve shrimp sauce in a separate dish. Shrimp Sauce. Put three large handfuls of unshelled boiled shrimps in a mortar with six ounces of good butter. Pound these at least twenty minutes and pass through a fine sieve. Strain very carefully half a pint of the stock in which the fish was steamed. Put it into a pan along with half a pint of wine, six ounces of the shrimp butter, two ounces of fresh butter, the yolks of five or six eggs, a scrape of nutmeg, and if need be, a small pinch of salt. Put a pan full of water on the fire, in which place the pan containing the mixture. Stir briskly at first, then more slowly, and continue doing so till the sauce is of a good consistency. May be served with any kind of boiled fish. Lobster and crayfish sauces may be made the same way. Reh-coteletli mit Trubel. (Venison Chops with Grapes.) Trim and neatly flatten six neat venison fillets. Place in an earthen dish a sliced onion, two tablespoonfuls 628 SWITZERLAND each of oil and vinegar, a sprig of thyme, bay leaf, teaspoonful each of black pepper and salt. Put fillets in this and steep for an hour, being careful to turn them now and again. Pick from stems a pound of good white grapes, thoroughly heat a tablespoonful of melted butter in a frying-pan, put in the grapes, fry for six minutes, frequently tossing, and keep hot. Wipe the fillets of venison and place them on a gridiron and grill for about twelve minutes, turning occasionally. Arrange neatly on a dish. Garnish with grapes. Serve with apple and celery salad. Hamedaler Chas-brodli. (Swiss Rarebit.) Grate five ounces Gruyere cheese. Put a gill of white wine in a saucepan, and as soon as it comes to the boil add the cheese, with half a saltspoonful of paprica pepper and one teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. Mix with a wooden spoon till thoroughly melted, add two egg yolks, and stir quickly while cooking for three minutes. Butter some small rounds of toast (about the size of a five-shilling piece) , heap the mixture on top, and serve very quickly. A little flour may be substituted for the eggs. Welsh rarebit is made the same way, only using beer or milk instead of the wine, and no eggs. Lammbi mit Knopfli. (Lamb with Dumplings.) Cut two pounds of lamb from a leg into pieces one and a half inches square. Heat one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add the lamb, season with a 629 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS saltspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of paprica pepper. Stir well with a wooden spoon, and briskly cook for ten minutes, or until of a good golden colour ; then add one tablespoonful of flour, a sliced carrot, and a sliced onion. Stir well again, moisten with a gill of claret, half a pint of broth, half a gill of tomato sauce, and one gill stock cullis, adding a bay leaf and a salt- spoonful of thyme. Stir, boil for five minutes, put in two medium-sized raw potatoes (peeled and cut into pieces three-quarters of an inch square), cover the pan, and slowly cook for ten minutes. Place the pan in a hot oven and cook again for forty minutes. Remove from the oven, take out the bay-leaf, skim off the fat, put the stew into a hot dish with six dumplings on top. Serve very hot. Potato Dumplings. Boil six peeled and sliced potatoes to a pulp in milk and a little salt water ; whip till quite smooth ; grate twelve raw potatoes, which soak in several fresh waters for half an hour, then pour off water very carefully ; squeeze the grated potatoes in clean cloths to take all the water out ; it must be as dry as sawdust. Loosen it in a basin with the hands, first putting in a little salt. Pour the boiling pulp over it, stirring all the time to make it into a dough, which must not be too stiff ; if too stiff add more milk. Fry in butter some pieces of bread cut into dice, arid mix them with the dough. Make balls twice the size of a walnut, and 630 SWITZERLAND boil in salted water till they float, then draw to one side of the fire and simmer for twenty minutes, or till cooked. Serve with hare or any joint with a good gravy. If any left over, when cold they may be cut in slices and fried in butter. Tomato Sauce. Fry in two ounces of butter for ten minutes, stirring all the time, two ounces chopped lean ham, one sliced carrot, one sliced onion, one chopped leek, a table- spoonful chopped parsley, a sliced head of celery, one clove, a half-teaspoonful whole peppers, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, a chopped green pepper, and half a point of garlic. Then add two tablespoonfuls of flour ; mix well, cook for five minutes ; put in one quart tinned tomatoes or two quarts fresh tomatoes cut in slices, and half a quart of cold water. Mix thoroughly, cover the pan, and let boil very slowly for an hour and a-half , giving an occasional stir. Strain through a sieve, then strain again through a cloth into a pan ; heat up and serve. If for future use put into bottles, and when cold cork closely. Vergoldete Kuechli. (Golden Fritters.) Boil a pint of fresh milk in a small saucepan, add one gill of white wine and four ounces sugar, and boil for two minutes. Dredge in three ounces farina and half a teaspoonful ground cinnamon, stirring with a spoon for two minutes, and boil gently for fifteen 631 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS minutes. Stir in two yolks of eggs over soft heat for three minutes. Pour it into a shallow buttered tin, neatly smooth the surface, and let stand till cold. Turn it out on to a lightly-floured table, cut into equal fancy shapes, egg and breadcrumb them, and fry in boiling fat till a golden brown ; drain on a cloth, pile neatly on a folded napkin, sprinkle a little powdered sugar over, and serve with Tyrolean sauce. Tyrolean Sauce. Make a white sauce of fresh butter, Indian cornflour, milk, sugar, and a grate of nutmeg. Thin this down with good claret, a glass of yellow chartreuse, and a few drops of cochineal. It ought not to be thicker than single cream. If to be served cold, mix in some cream whipped to a froth. Honig Pudig. (Honey Pudding.) Two ounces thick honey, four ounces breadcrumbs, two tablespoonfuls of fine sugar, half a lemon, two whole eggs, the whites of four eggs, one ounce butter, two ounces flour, a half gill cold milk, and one table- spoonful of yellow or white chartreuse. Mix all the ingredients except the whites of the eggs in a bowl. Beat up the whites to a stiff froth and add to the preparation. Fill six buttered pudding moulds. Place them in a tin, pouring boiling water into the pan up to half the height of the moulds, and 632 SWITZERLAND set in a hot oven for thirty minutes. Remove from the pan and let stand for a minute, then gently turn out of the moulds, and pour some melted honey over. Chartreuse Green. Macerate for fourteen days, in four pints of spirits (at least 62 overproof ) and two pints of water, two ounces Alpen artemisia, one ounce angelica seeds, one and a-fifth ounces poplar buds, two and two-fifths ounces of hyssop, four ounces lemon-scented melissa, two ounces peppermint, four drams angelica root, one dram arnica flowers, one dram Chinese cassia, one dram nutmeg, and two drams thyme. Squeeze and filter or distil, add the essence to twenty- five pints of spirit, and mix well ; then add twenty-five pints of syrup and a little green colouring matter. Filter till perfectly clear and seal up in bottles for two years. White Chartreuse. Macerate for fourteen days, in four pints of spirits (62 overproof) and two pints of water, one ounce Alpen artemisia, one ounce angelica seeds, four-fifths of an ounce of Chinese cassia, one ounce hyssop, two ounces lemon-scented melissa, two drams calamus, two drams angelica root, two drams cardamoms, one dram nutmeg, two drams cloves, and three-quarters of a dram of tonka beans, and proceed as in recipe for green chartreuse. The essence must be distilled so that the liquor may be as clear as crystal. 633 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Yellow Chartreuse. Mix in four pints of spirits (at least 62 overproof) eighty minims of oil of angelica, twelve minims of oil of melissa, twelve minims of oil of mace, twelve minims of oil of hyssop, eight minims of oil of coriander, eight minims of oil of cloves, eight minims of oil of cazuput, and four minims of oil of calamus. Add four pints of syrup, and colour yellow with a little saffron. Filter till clear. Cannot be used under two years. 634 LXXXIL— THIBET Menu Ja . (Tea) Drae gi pae sae (Rice Pudding) Chang (Beer) Pag gi chin pa dang shamo (Pig's Kidneys and Mushrooms) Ara (Spirits) Yak sha gocpa (Stewed Yak) Sha-mo gocpa (Stewed Mushrooms) Iadi sha toub (Hashed Fowls) Mo-mo (Meat Dumplings) Lug sha gocpa (Roast Mutton) Gocpa Nya (Roasted Trout) Tng pa dang mo-mo (Beef Broth and Dumplings) Sho (Sour Milk) Pobae Ja (Tea with salt and butter) 635 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Drae gi pae sae. (Rice Pudding.) Clean and steep two tablespoonfuls of rice, and boil with two breakfastcupfuls of milk, one tablespoonful of sugar, and one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. When the rice is soft leave till nearly cool, stir in three beaten eggs, pour all in a pudding dish, and cook in a moderate oven. Strew some pounded cin- namon on top before serving. Pag gi chin pa dang shamo. (Pig's Kidneys and Mushrooms.) Put a good-sized piece of butter in a pan, and when bubbling fry a large onion cut in small pieces till browned. Slice some pig's kidneys, dust them with flour, mild curry powder, and salt, and fry in the butter. Chop up some mushrooms, and place the whole in a stewpan with a little stock, and stew till tender. Serve with bread and rice. Yak sha gocpa. (Stewed Yak.) Take about six pounds of the fillet steak from a yak, or large deer, lard it with bacon and raw ham ; salt it, and put it into a kitchen basin. Pack round the meat parsley and celery roots, a carrot and an onion sliced : also a little thyme, basil (if available), bay leaves, cloves, and peppercorns ; cover with table ale, and leave to soak in a cool place till wanted, turning the meat fre- quently. Put into a stewpan some trimmings of bacon and the vegetables out of the above marinade ; set the meat thereon, pour the marinade over, and add more 636 THIBET beer to cover the lot, and also a few rinds or strips of pork. Set this on the stove to boil, and skim it carefully. As soon as it begins to bubble lay a thickly buttered paper over the meat, replace the lid on the stewpan, and put it in a very slow oven to simmer. In three hours' time turn the meat, and continue cooking for three hours more. It should then be done. Remove the meat, and set it on a dish. Strain through a sieve the stock in which it was boiled, skim the fat off carefully and pour it over the meat ; then cover the stewpan and keep it hot, having first emptied the stock into a second stew- pan. Let this boil, and thicken it with six tablespoon- fuls of barley flour. As soon as the sauce boils place it on the side to settle, add the grating of an orange peel, the pulp and juice of a lemon without peel or pips, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay leaves. Twenty minutes after skim off the fat again, and strain into another stewpan ; then mix in two tablespoonfuls of crab-apple jelly, and after boiling for a few minutes take it off the fire. Place the beef on a large dish, and pour the sauce over. Garnish the dish with a few thin slices of lemon, and send up separately a small dish of parched rice. Sha-mo-gocpa. (Stewed Mushrooms.) Clean some middling-sized mushrooms. Stew in a pan with some good stock, pepper, and salt, and when tender serve with bread. 637 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Iadi sha toub. (Hashed Fowls.) Remove the skin and bones from a fowl, mince the meat very fine, and then pound it. Put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan with one" and a half pints of stock, a small onion stuck with two or three cloves, a point of garlic, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil the stock gently for an hour, then strain it carefully into a stewpan, skim off the fat, put in the minced fowl, and keep it simmering at the edge of the fire. When the fowl is cooked, strain and reduce the stock to a fifth of the original quantity, mix in a little sour curd and a tablespoonful of flour, which put into pan with mince, and bring all up to the boil. Serve with bread, plain boiled rice, or savoury rice puddings as in Turkestan. Mo-mo. (Meat Dumplings.) Cut the meat into small pieces like dice, rub them well with lemon juice, and roll in a mixture of finely chopped herbs and shallots seasoned with white pepper. Wrap portions of the meat in a good pudding or pie dough, fastening it securely so that the juice may not escape, plunge them into a saucepan of boiling water, and boil slowly for two hours. Meanwhile make some well-flavoured sauce with good stock, and when strained squeeze the juice of a lemon in it. Drain the dumplings well when cooked, place them on a hot dish, and serve at once with the sauce in a sauceboat ; add a little poured over each and round the dish. Eat with plain boiled rice or savoury rice pudding. 638 THIBET Lug-sha gocpa. (Roast Mutton.) Sprinkle salt on a gigot of mutton, fix it on the spit, and roast in front of a clear even fire. Peel some small equal-sized onions, blanch for five minutes in boiling water, then refresh them in cold water, and leave till cool. Put the onions in a stewpan with a lump of butter, season with a small quantity of salt and sugar, and fry till browned. Pour one quart of sweet wine over, and boil them till the sauce has reduced to one and a half pints. Boil some soaked haricot beans (white) in water with butter, salt, one onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; when soft strain them, pass the onions and sauce through a fine hair sieve, return the puree to the saucepan, mix the beans with it, also a small lump of butter and some meat glaze. When the meat is cooked put it on a hot dish. Serve the haunch with the puree and beans in a separate dish, along with the pieces of turnip boiled separately. To be eaten with bread and plain boiled rice. Gocpa Nya. (Roasted Trout.) Cut kippered trout into neat pieces ; rub with oil and roast in front or on top of a clear fire. Salmon may be cooked in the same way, only it is necessary in their case to wrap the slices in pieces of oiled paper. To Kipper Trout. Clean and split the fish ; take out the bone very care- fully. Rub outside and inside with salt, and let stand 639 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS over night. Now dry the fish with a cloth, and rub out- side and inside with the following mixture all pounded to a powder, viz., one pound common salt, quarter pound brown sugar, half ounce coriander seeds, quarter ounce each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, and half an ounce white pepper. Keep a weighted flat piece of wood on top. Rub night and morning for two whole days, then hang up to dry. To Kipper Salmon. Salmon may be kippered in the same way. The spices may be modified at pleasure, or left out altogether, using, however, a good pinch of cayenne pepper. Tng pa dang mo mo. (Beef Broth and Dumplings.) Put two pounds of the lower portion of a round of beef into a saucepan with sufficient water to cover it ; add a bay leaf, six cloves, an onion, a veal bone, and any beef trimmings that may be handy. Boil well until the meat is .done and tender, skimming frequently. Pour the soup through a fine sieve into another sauce- pan, boil up once more, and stir in a thickening of butter rolled in flour. Put two breakfastcupfuls of any finely chopped vegetables into the soup, as well as an equal quantity of the cooked meat also chopped up, cover over the pan, and simmer gently at the side of the fire for about an hour, skimming frequently. Add salt and pepper to taste, and half a lemon cut in slices. Serve with flour dumplings and boiled rice. 640 THIBET Suet Dumplings for Soup. Skin and finely chop a quarter of a pound of beef suet, dredge it well with flour, add half teaspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, and one and a half pints of corn-meal, and mix all well ; then add sufficient milk to form a stiff dough, knead well, and divide into equal portions. Form these into balls not larger than a Tangerine orange, beat them with a rolling-pin to make them light, and then tie them up loosely in small cloths dipped into boiling water ; keep boiling incessantly for two hours, take them out, and dip for an instant in cold water before untying the cloths. Serve them hot in the soup. Another Recipe. Mince rather finely ten ounces of good beef suet, which rub into one pound of flour. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Make a nice dough with a little water, form with your floured hands into small balls, and boil in salted water for two hours. Sho. (Sour Milk.) Place a pan of milk in a cool dry place for two or three days till it is sour and has solidified. Take an equal quantity of sweet milk, or half the quantity of cream, and mix well by stirring them together thoroughly. 641 2 s BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Po-bae Ja. (Tea with salt and butter.) In making Thibetan tea, pour boiling water into a large bamboo cylinder. A piece of brick tea is broken off and thrown into this. Salt and wood ash are added, butter also. The whole is then churned vigorously. After churning it is poured into a copper or earthenware kettle, which is set beside the fire, and from which the tea is poured — the servant going constantly round and replenishing the cups. 642 LXXXIII.— TURKESTAN Menu Nan gha Uruz Salghan (Breaking of Bread with Salt) Yangi Yemish (Fresh Fruits) At nang Sutai (Fermented Milk Kumos) Koi gashet ning Ash (Pillau of Lamb) Takhoo Kabab (Braised Chickens) Narain (Stewed Mutton) Kublar Kabab (Roast Pigeons) (Goming Ash) (Macaroni Soup) Tukham Poshkal (Pancakes with Syrup) Khochgan Kaimak Tukham (Whipped Cream and Eggs) Tuz lag Chai (Tea with Salt) 643 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS At nang Sutai. (Fermented Milk Kumos.) Fill a strong quart bottle with mare's or skimmed cow's milk, and mix with it one ounce of sugar and one teaspoonful of best yeast. Cork the bottle, wire it, and put in a cool, dark cellar. Shake the kumos well every day for five days ; after that time it will be ready for drinking. It may be kept good, if well corked, for three or four weeks. Another Recipe. Put any quantity of mare's milk in a wooden vessel and mix in one-sixth its bulk of water. Add one- eighth the quantity of the sourest cow's milk that can be obtained, cover over with a thick cloth, and put in a warm place for a day, when a thick creamy sub- stance will have gathered on the top. Beat this well with a stick like a churn staff until the thick part of the milk is thoroughly incorporated with the thin. Let it remain for a day longer, then pour into a long narrow vessel like a churn, when it must be well stirred again until thoroughly mixed. Every time it is required for use it must be well stirred. If it is kept secure from the air it will last two or three months. Camel's and ass's milk are also fermented as above. Koi gashet ning Ash. (Pillau of Lamb.) Clean and bone a pigeon. Stuff it with boiled rice seasoned very strongly with aromatic spices ; rub with pepper and salt. Put this into a boned chicken which 644 TURKESTAN has been rubbed with pepper and salt, and this again into a boned turkey or goose which has also been rubbed with pepper and salt, and this into a nicely dressed lamb. Sew it up and roast, basting well. With the gravy and a little water make a good curry sauce, not too hot, which serve in a well of the dish on which the lamb is placed, surrounded with plenty of boiled rice cooked as in China, or with savoury rice pudding. Savoury Rice Pudding. Bring to the boil three ounces of lard, in which fry two sliced onions, four ounces of mixed sliced vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, celery, etc., and four ounces of meat cut in small pieces. When nicely browned put in a pound of washed rice, with half a teaspoonful each of ground coriander, caraway, and cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, and half the quantity of white pepper, and over all as much water as will stand two inches above the contents. Stew steadily till the rice is soft and all the moisture evaporated, and then turn out on a dish. Eat with meats, etc. Takhoo Kabab. (Stewed Chickens). Singe two middling-sized chickens, pluck them care- fully, chop their livers and gizzards with a pound of lean mutton ; add a chopped onion, salt, pepper, pimento, pounded ginger, a handful of breadcrumbs, and a whole egg. Mix this mince well together, divide, roll into small balls the size of a walnut. 645 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Cut up the chickens in joints, put them into a stewpan, with the backs divided in two ; add three or four small onions (whole), a bunch of parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two tablespoonfuls of lard ; then fry the chickens, tossing them till of a nice colour. Sprinkle over two tablespoonfuls of flour seasoned with pepper and salt, and moisten to height with broth ; add a point of garlic, a handful of stoned raisins, and a teaspoonful of ground green chillies. Stir till the sauce boils, and at the first bubbling remove it on to a moderate fire, and put warm ashes on the lid. When the chickens are done add to them the small balls of mince, cover the stewpan, continue boiling gently for a few minutes, then dish them with the balls and two or three of the raisins, and strain the sauce over. Serve with unleavened bread, savoury rice pudding, or plain rice. Narain. (Stewed Mutton.) Ingredients : — One and a-haif pounds back ribs of mutton, four onions, eight large potatoes, two breakfast- cupfuls of lentils steeped till soft (about twelve hours), half a tablespoonful of butter, pepper, and salt. Put into a pot the butter, and let it get hot ; then slice the onions and fry them gently in it. Wash the mutton well and joint neatly, and put it in the pot with clean water that hangs about it, along with the lentils. Put the lid instantly and closely on the pot and stew slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Peel the eight potatoes and cut them in slices half an inch 646 TURKESTAN thick, and place them in water. When the meat has stewed for three-quarters of an hour lift the potatoes dripping with water, and pack them and the lentils round the meat ; sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and replace the lid closely and quickly, and stew for three-quarters of an hour. It must be cooked slowly else it will burn. The whole is cooked by steam. Put chops in the middle of an entree dish, and garnish with sliced boiled carrots, not forgetting the gravy, and brown in a very fast oven. Eat with plain boiled rice, bread, or savoury rice pudding. Kublar Kabab. (Roast Pigeons.) Clean and truss some pigeons in the usual manner, cover the breasts with pieces of fat bacon, and roast, seeing that they are well basted. Serve with bread and butter. Goming Ash. (Macaroni Soup.) Fry in butter a finely-minced onion in a saucepan, and when a light golden colour add six ounces of ham cut in small pieces, a bunch of parsley and fine herbs, and a few peppercorns. Let these cook for a few minutes, then add eight large tomatoes, having the skin and seeds removed, cut in pieces, and drained quite dry. When the moisture from the tomatoes has re- duced, pour in a little very strong, well-flavoured broth, cook for a few minutes longer, and pass all through a sieve. Boil one and a quarter pounds of macaroni 647 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS in salted water ; when quite tender take it out, drain, and put it into a frying-pan with six ounces of butter pulled in small pieces. When the butter is sufficiently melted, add a little pepper, and put the macaroni in a deep dish in layers, with a handful of grated cheese sprinkled over, and a little of the sauce poured over each layer. Sprinkle a little more cheese over the top layer, mask with browned clarified butter, and serve with a good broth in a tureen. Tukham Poshkal. (Pancakes with Syrup.) Prepare a pancake batter with four eggs, four table- spoonfuls of flour, two ounces of warmed butter, one ounce of sugar, and half a pint of warmed milk. Put a lump of butter into a frying pan, melt it, then pour in a thin layer of the batter. Fry until browned on one side, then turn it over and brown the other. Continue in this way until all the pancakes are cooked, putting more butter into the pan when required. Beat the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with half a pint of sour cream ; then put in two tablespoonfuls of well-washed currants, the same quantity of sultanas, and a small quantity of grated lemon peel. Spread the mixture over the pancakes, roll up lightly, lay them in a buttered dish, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of sweetened milk, and put a small piece of butter on each. Place the dish in the oven until the pancakes are lightly browned, and serve while very hot with a sweet syrup made with brown sugar poured over. 648 TURKESTAN Khochgan Kaimak Tukham. (Whipped Cream and Eggs.) Sweeten one quart of milk with castor sugar and put it over the fire until boiling. Whisk the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, drop the froth in small quantities into the milk, turn them over once or twice, then take out, and lay them on a fine hair sieve to drain. When all the white of egg has been used, beat the yolks of the six eggs and stir them into the milk, adding more sugar if required. Stir the cream at the edge of the fire until thick, but without letting it boil, or the eggs will curdle ; then turn it into a basin and stir it occasionally until half cold. Flavour the cream with a few drops of rose- water and half a wineglassful of brandy ; turn it into a glass or fancy china dish, and arrange the poached whites of eggs on the top. 649 LXXXIV.— TURKEY Menu Zarzavat TchifirbasS (Vegetable Soup) Kalcan Balighi Tavasi Midia Delmase (Fried Turbot) (Stuffed Mussels) Kiymali Beurek (Beef Pie) Inghinar Dolmase (Stuffed Artichokes) Pilij Yahni (Chicken Paste) Zarzavatli hamour Ischi (Vegetable Croquettes) Soouk Taouk (Cold Fowl) Salata (Salad) Taaze Fasoulia (French Beans) Talli Kadaif (Puff Paste) Kymac (Curdled Cream) Sarai Locmassi (Sultan Quenelles) F6st£c ezmessi CaimaclS (Pistachio Cream) Yemish (Fruit) Cahve' (Coffee) 650 TURKEY Zarzavat Tchiorbase. (Vegetable Soup.) Put into a stewpan half a leg of mutton, a knuckle of veal, the bones and trimmings of a chicken, four quarts of water, and boil the meat till tender. When cooked, strain the liquor off the meat, and put two quarts of it into another stewpan. Mix one teacupful of ground rice to a smooth paste, put in the soup, and stir it over the fire till boiling ; then move the stewpan to the side. Chop and mix together an equal quantity of bacon, ham, and mutton, season them with salt, pepper and one pinch of parsley, and add five ounces of blanched rice. Divide the mixture into small equal quantities, wrap each one up in a tender cabbage leaf (blanched), truss them, and lay them side by side in a flat stewpan ; cover with fat broth, put the lid on the stewpan with hot ashes on it, and braise the contents over a moderate fire. Skim the fat off the soup, mix with it a piece of butter that has been worked with a little curry-powder, and stir it over the fire for a few minutes. Drain the dolmas in the cabbage-leaves, remove string, put them into a soup tureen, pour in the soup, and serve. Kalcan Balighi Tavasi. (Fried Turbot.) Cut eight pieces about four inches long and about one and a-quarter inches broad from a young turbot, freed from skin and bones. Butter a shallow baking tin with straight sides, and place therein a couple of shred shallots, a tablespoonful of roughly chopped parsley, a small bunch of fine herbs, one clove, a pinch 651 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS of nutmeg, a quarter point of garlic, twelve peppercorns, a pinch of sugar, a quarter pinch of paprica pepper, and a very little salt. Place the fillets on top of these, and pour over sufficient white wine to cover the fish. Cover the tin with buttered paper, and push into a moderate oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Remove the fillets, and, when cold, egg and breadcrumb them, fry in boiling oil, serve with sauce vinaigrette. Sauce Vinaigrette. Put a teaspoonful of fine salt, half the quantity of pepper and mustard into a bowl, pour a little oil in and mix thoroughly, add more oil till you have used three tablespoonfuls. Now add gradually three tablespoon- fuls of vinegar. Mix with this eight spring onions, minced very fine, a little chopped parsley and tarragon, and a hard-boiled egg finely chopped. This makes an excellent sauce for most kinds of fish and boiled meats, especially calf's head. Midia Dolmase. (Stuffed Mussels.) Put two dozen large mussels, well cleaned, into a stewpan on the fire till they open; drain them, but without separating the two shells ; wash them, and drain again on a sieve. Wash three ounces of rice, and let it drain on a sieve for half an hour. Chop an onion, fry it with oil ; this done, add to it the rice ; fry this for a few moments ; moisten it moderately with a part of the liquor of the mussels, let the liquid boil up till it be entirely ab- 652 TURKEY sorbed by the rice, which should not be too much cooked, not even split. Take it off the fire, add half a handful of currants, another half handful of chopped pistachios, a little pepper, and a pinch of fennel, also chopped. With this preparation fill the double shells, and place them in a flat stewpan, pressing them close together ; pour in to half their height some good fish broth ; boil for twenty-five minutes on a moderate fire, keeping them covered. Range the mussels on a dish, pour over a little of their own liquor, and serve. Kiymali Beurek. (Beef Pie.) Make a thick paste of half a teaspoonful of salt, half a pound of flour, and a small quantity of water. Divide the paste into three equal parts, two of which roll out thinly. Beat up four eggs and work them in with the third portion of paste, roll it out very thinly, cut it into eight strips, and throw them into a sauce- pan of boiling water. Spread one of the remaining pieces of paste in a rather shallow pie-dish, and when the above strips are three-parts cooked lay four of them on the paste. Season some finely minced cold beef, mix a small quantity of chopped parsley in it, and brown in boiling butter. Spread the mince in the dish, lay the other four strips of boiled paste over it, and cover with the remaining portion of uncooked paste. Put two ounces of butter in a frying pan, and brown it, then pour it over the paste, and bake in a good oven. Serve hot, with stuffed artichokes. 653 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Inghinar Dolmase. (Stuffed Artichokes.) Seven heads of artichokes, one and a half pounds of lean meat, put through a mincing machine. Take four onions and mince them small with the meat, fry them together until brown, with pepper and salt to taste, adding a few snowbar seeds. Take the hard leaves from the outside of the artichokes ; be careful to take the inside out (which is of no use), and then fry the remainder, taking care not to break them. When brown, take them out with a spoon, put them carefully on a dish and fill each artichoke with the fried meat ; put them back into a saucepan and cover with stock. Cook on a slow fire for half an hour, then serve neatly on a dish with beef pie or as a separate dish. Pilij Yahni. (Chicken Paste.) Mix half a pound of rice flour with three glassfuls of cold cream ; pass it through a sieve into a stewpan, stir it well over the fire till it is a perfectly smooth pap. At the first bubbling add half a pound of powder sugar, and let the pap reduce for twenty minutes on a moderate fire. Meanwhile take off the white breast meat of two little chickens, remove the skin, pound them in a mortar to a paste ; add the strained juice of half a lemon, and lastly seven or eight yolks of eggs. Take the paste out, pass it through a sieve, and put it into a stewpan. Pour the pap gradually over the chicken paste, working the 654 TURKEY preparation hard ; let it boil up but once, then im- mediately pour it into a deep dish, or silver-pan. Adorn the surface with a few drops of caramel, which let fall at intervals, and then stir to and fro, by aid of the point of a small knife, so as to imitate marbling work. Vege- table Croquettes may be served with it. Zaryavatli hamour Ischi. (Vegetable Croquettes.) Put a slice each of turnip, carrot, and onion into a stewpan with half a large tin of preserved tomatoes, and season with a sprig of parsley, two cloves, two peppercorns, one saltspoonful of pepper, and one tablespoonful each of herbs and salt, and stew for a quarter of an hour. Pass the mass through a sieve, and then take half a pint of the mixture and put it into a saucepan with one breakfastcupful of good brown stock, highly seasoned ; put it on the fire, and when it boils add one breakfastcupful of uncooked rice. Boil until all the liquor has gone, and then add two ounces of butter ; put the pan on the side of the fire until the rice is soft and done, and add one egg, well beaten, and a little cream or tomato sauce, using only sufficient to moisten. Take the mass out of the pan and let it cool ; shape it into rolls, and put them first into crumbs, then into egg, and then into crumbs again. Fry them until done to a light brown colour in boiling fat. The rice may be parboiled for five or six minutes, as it is easier to cook than in stock. Serve with any kind of meats, or as a separate dish. 655 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Soouk Taouk. (Cold Fowl.) Take a fowl, clean from all impurities, and wash it inside. Have ready minced meat with pepper and salt (say two pounds), cover the fowl all over with the meat outside, making it stick firm with your hands. Have a pot with boiling dripping (which must be good), and put the fowl into it. Put the pot in a moderately heated oven and cook for three hours, basting occasionally. To be eaten cold. Garnish with farced mushrooms. Serve with salad. Farced Fresh Mushrooms. Thoroughly wash and peel half a pound of mushrooms. Chop the tails very fine, place them in a small sauce- pan with an ounce of butter, three finely chopped shal- lots, one ounce chopped raw ham, half a bean of garlic chopped, and gently brown for ten minutes, frequently stirring. Add one tablespoonful of flour, stir well, pour in a gill of cream, three saltspoonfuls salt, one salt- spoonful cayenne, and a saltspoonful grated nutmeg ; mix with wooden spoon till it comes to a boil, then add two tablespoonfuls of fresh breadcrumbs, one egg yolk, and mix well while heating for three minutes. When cold fill the mushroom tops with it. Neatly smooth tops carefully, dip in melted butter, then in bread- crumbs, place on a tin, set in oven for eight minutes. Salata. (Salad.) Wash two bunches of watercress, and keep them in ice water until crisp ; then take them out, shake all the 656 TURKEY water from them, and tear them into pieces. Chop four hard-boiled eggs, and prepare a salad cream, mixing one teaspoonful of sugar with it. Place a layer of the water- cress in a dish, put in a few nasturtium flowers or but- tercups, sprinkle over half the egg, and pour in half the dressing. Repeat this, put a wreath of flowers round and a few in the centre, and serve. Taaze Fasoulia. (French Beans.) Prepare three breakfastcupfuls of French beans, put them into a saucepan of slightly salted water, and boil them until tender. In the meantime put the yolks of three eggs into a basin, and beat them with two tablespoonfuls of cream. Add two ounces of warm butter, beat well, pour the mixture into a saucepan on the fire, and when it is very hot mix in one or two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two small pieces of garltc well crushed with a wooden spoon, some parsley and chopped shallot finely minced, a little pepper and salt, together with the beans. After they have been drained, remove the pan to the side of the fire, and steam them gently for six or seven minutes, stirring constantly. When done, turn the preparation out on to a dish, and serve at once. Talli Kadaif. (Puff Paste.) Sift one pound of flour, mixed up with a little salt and sugar into a basin, and mix in four ounces of melted butter or oil, and a small quantity of water, working well into a smooth frying paste or batter. Have ready several cornets made with stiff paper, put 657 2T BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS the paste in them, and squeeze it out about the size of vermicelli on to a well-buttered pan or sheet, taking great care not to let the strips touch one another. Put the pan or sheet on a trivet on a moderate fire and let them set ; or as they are squeezed out they may fall upon the pan or sheet on the trivet over the fire, re- moving them when set to make room for others. Let them all get cold. Well butter a flat biscuit mould, place the strips of paste in it, pour over clarified butter, and bake in a slack oven for twenty minutes. Take out the mould, turn the contents out on a dish, and serve with kymac. Kymac. (Curdled Cream.) Stand a quart of new milk in a china dish about an inch in depth for twelve or fourteen hours in a cool place, taking very great care not to disturb the milk. Now put the dish of milk, with an asbestos mat under- neath it, on a closed range for an hour. Very great care must be taken that the milk does not boil, or the pre- paration will be spoiled ; it must be brought to a heat just before boiling point. Place the dish in a cool place, and stand for other twelve hours. Remove the thick cream carefully from the top and roll it up as neatly as possible, and serve with pastry, preserved fruits, or any kind of puddings or sweets. Sakai Locmassi. (Sultan Quenelles.) Pass through a sieve, into a basin, twelve ounces of flour ; mix with a little salt, a little sugar, a few table- spoonfuls of melted butter, and two or three yolks of 658 TURKEY eggs. Dilute it with tepid water by the aid of a spoon, giving it the consistence of a frying paste ; at this degree add to it four ounces of yeast. Cover the basin, let the paste rise in a mild temperature to nearly double its volume ; now knead it. When cool divide it into little bits, the size of a fine filbert, which roll to a round shape, and plunge into a frying pan with clarified butter or oil. Two minutes after, drain the quenelles. When cold, plunge them again into hot fat ; as soon as of a nice colour, drain and place them in a basin, largely moisten with thick syrup, perfumed with orange ; when soaked well, dish the quenelles, and pour over Sultan sauce. Sultan Sauce. Melt one ounce butter in a saucepan, then put in one tablespoonful each of flour and sugar, and stir them over the fire until browned. Mix with the above about two tablespoonfuls each of stoned and chopped raisins and dried currants, well washed and blanched, thinly shred almonds, a small quantity of pounded cinnamon, grated lemon peel, bruised cloves, and one and a half breakfast- cupfuls of red wine. Boil gently for fifteen minutes. Festec eymessi Caimacle. (Pistachio Cream.) Blanch about a quarter pound of pistachio kernels, pound them in a mortar with one tablespoonful of orange- flower water, and about a quarter pound of castor sugar ; rub them through a close hair sieve into a basin, add one pint of whipped cream and one ounce of dissolved isin- glass. Mix well, pour into a mould, set upon ice to set, and serve in the usual way. 659 LXXX V. —VEGETARIAN Menu Brown Soup Cream Soup White Fillets a la Horly Cutlets Norman Green Peas and Potato Cream Omelet and Stuffed Mushrooms Cucumbers Farced Pudding Helene Bavarian Cream Meringues Vegetables in Aspic Orange Ice Cream Fruit Coffee 660 VEGETARIAN Brown Soup. Slice one large carrot and one large Spanish onion, put them in a pan in which you have heated a good bit of butter, fry till a good brown, and put all in a pot with two quarts of water. Now add six ounces soaked green (German) lentils, two cleaned potatoes cut in halves, one sliced carrot, one sliced turnip, a head of celery, half a dessertspoonful brown sugar. Boil for three hours and rub through a sieve. Brown two table- spoonfuls of oatmeal and one of flour, smooth with a cupful of the stock, add a teaspoonful ground Jamaica pepper and a couple of spoonfuls of good mushroom ketchup. Again boil for three minutes, and serve with crisp toast or fried crotons. Cream Soup. With a round cutter about the size of a pea, shape half a gill each of carrot and cucumber. Cook these in boiling water till quite tender, but not too soft. Boil one quart of milk with half a pound of butter beans previously soaked for six or eight hours, a large sliced onion, half a carrot, an ounce of parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, a teaspoonful of salt, and some pepper. When well boiled pass through a sieve into a clean pot. Add an ounce of flour, two ounces of butter well kneaded before putting it in, and stir until it thickens ; then whip a couple of eggs in half a pint of cream, which stir into the soup, along with a teaspoonful of castor sugar, being careful to bring it just to the boil and no more, 661 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS otherwise it will curdle. Now add the cooked veget- ables and a spoonful of chopped tarragon, heat, and serve with crotons of bread fried in butter or nut oil. White Fillets a la Horly. Put half a pint of milk on to boil and thicken with rather more than one ounce of ground rice to make a little stiffer than for rice mould. Add a lump of butter, salt, a little grated onion, and a pinch of nutmeg, let all cook together for ten minutes, stirring frequently. Put three boiled potatoes through masher, and whilst hot add it to the rice or it will not set well. Pour it into dish, and when cold and stiff cut into fillet-shaped slices, roll in egg and white bread crumbs ; fry and serve with tomato or parsley sauce. The mixture must be stiff, for the frying softens the rice again a little. The oil or nutotine for frying must be beyond boiling point, and the cutlets will then be quite crisp and free from any oily flavour. Tomato Sauce. Scald, peel, and slice, one pound tomatoes ; also slice one carrot, one turnip, one onion, and fry all together in one and a half ounces of nut butter for ten minutes. Add a quarter pint water, a few peppercorns, half a teaspoonful of salt, and stew gently for half an hour. Strain into a small enamelled saucepan, put in two ounces of flour and half an ounce nut butter. Mix all together and stir over a moderate heat until it boils. 662 VEGETARIAN Cutlets Norman. Put two ounces shelled walnuts in salted cold water, bring to the boil, and simmer for half a minute. Turn on to a sieve and run cold water over them to take out any bitterness from the skins, and mince very fine. Cut the half of a large onion into slices, soak in boiling water for a couple of minutes, then chop very fine and boil for ten minutes. Add to the ground nuts and boiled onions two ounces well-washed red lentils, half a table- spoonful lemon juice, three quarters of an ounce of nut butter, finely-chopped rind of a quarter of a lemon, quarter teaspoonful of mace, same quantity of nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste. Stew very gently till cooked, but not pulped. When nearly cooked mix in half a tablespoonful of fine tapioca. When all cooked, give a stir round and turn out on to a dish to cool. When quite cold make into cutlets by putting them into cutlet forms, egg and breadcrumb them, and fry in boiling butter. Serve with parsley sauce, peas a la bourgoise, and potato cream. Parsley Sauce. Melt three ounces of butter and stir in two ounces flour. When quite smooth add slowly two teacupfuls of milk, stir till it thickens ; then add a couple of spoon- fuls of finely-chopped and scalded parsley, and cook over the fire for a couple of minutes ; add pepper and salt to taste. Chopped eggs substituted for the parsley also makes a good sauce. 663 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Peas a la Bourgoise. Shell a couple of pounds of peas, put them in water which is boiling fast, along with a dozen button onions. When cooked, strain and put them into another pan with a seasoning of salt, a dust of pepper, and a piece of nut butter the size of a hen's egg. Heat up thoroughly and serve very hot. This may be served as a separate dish. Potato Cream. Peel, boil, and mash ten good potatoes, and pour over them half a gill of thick cream which has been heated to boiling point ; add half an ounce of fresh butter, a pinch of white pepper, and some salt if necessary. Put the pan on the fire and whip with a fork until as light as whipped cream. Heap on to a hot dish, but do not smooth them. Omelet and Stuffed Mushrooms. Break five whole eggs and four yolks into a basin and beat them up with one and a half saltspoonfuls of salt and half the quantity of pepper until very light. Then add three ounces of butter broken into small pieces along with a dessertspoonful of shallot, a teaspoon- ful of parsley, the same quantity of taragon, marjorim, and basil, minced fairly small, which carefully mix. Put three ounces of nut butter into a pan (not too large), and when boiling give the mixture a brisk whisk for a minute and then pour into the pan. Stir the mixture with a spoon till it begins to thicken. When 664 VEGETARIAN quite firm, place the pan in front of the fire to partially cook the upper side. Then fold over and serve at once. Garnish with farced mushrooms. Stuffed Mushrooms. Clean and peel half-a-dozen nice-sized mushrooms ; chop up the stalks along with a shallot, a teaspoonful of parsley, and the same quantity of chervil. Stew these in two ounces of butter ; when tender, add a few breadcrumbs, the yolk of an egg, and season with pepper and salt. Mix all together and stuff the mushrooms with the mixture, and cook in the oven for about fifteen minutes. Serve on buttered crotons. Cucumbers Farced. Take some pieces of cucumber nearly two inches long. Cut out little pieces from the green skin to give a striped appearance. Boil these pieces in salt and water for five minutes. Take up and remove the seed part. Fill up with the following : — Two tablespoonfuls of crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of cheese, one small shallot or onion cooked and chopped, salt, pepper, mustard, and the yolk of an egg to bind. Pile the mixture rather high, stand these in a pan with boiling water and milk (in which an onion and some spices have been cooked) to come half way up, and simmer until tender. Decorate tops with parsley and serve with potatoes saute. 66 S BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Potatoes Saute. Take three pounds of new potatoes, scrape and cut in quarters, or, if old, cut out round pieces rather larger than a marble. If small, just clean and scrape them. Put them into a pot with plenty of cold water, and when through the boil take them out and dry with a cloth. Then put them in a pan in which you have heated three ounces of butter, and toss over the fire for about twenty minutes till nicely browned all over, and at the last moment dust well with fine salt. Pudding Helene. Mince very fine half a pound of Brazil nuts (grated nuts, will do) which have been freed of skin. Cook this in half a pint of milk, cream two tablespoonfuls of sugar and three ounces of butter, beat up the yolks of six eggs, and add to the creamed sugar and butter. When the milk is off the boil stir in the eggs, half a pint of cream, the butter and sugar, two tablespoonfuls of cake crumbs, and two teaspoonfuls of essence of vanilla, also add the whites of three eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Pour all into a pudding dish, and bake for half an hour. Whip the whites of the other three eggs to a stiff froth with three tablespoonfuls of castor sugar and a little vanilla. Just before the pudding is cooked, spread this mixture on the top and brown in the oven. Serve with cream or cherry sauce. Cherry Sauce. Put into a pan two handfuls of sour cherries without stones or stalks, add four or five tablespoonfuls of pow- 666 VEGETARIAN dered sugar, a glass of claret, and two inches of cinnamon, and the juice of half a lemon. Boil the liquid vigorously for half a minute, then thicken it with two or three tablespoonfuls of potato flour diluted with cold water. Help the colour with a few drops of cochineal. This may be served with ice-moulds or puddings. Bavarian Cream. Put half an ounce of Irish moss (steeped in two waters) into a basin with one teacupful of milk, and soak for two hours. Put one and a half pints of cream into a basin and whip well until there is only half a pint left, the remainder being in a stiff froth. Pound one pint blanched sweet almonds in a mortar, mix in the unwhipped cream, add three eggs beaten up with one teaspoonful sugar. Put the whole into a saucepan and stir over the fire until the preparation commences to thicken, add the Irish moss, remove the pan from the fire ; pass the whole through a sieve into a basin, and add quarter teaspoonful essence of almonds. Whisk well until the mixture thickens, then add the whipped cream, whisk again and pour it into the moulds, packed in ice. When it is set and firm, turn it out on a dish, accompanied with whipped cream or cold rum sauce poured over it. Pineapple, orange, and chocolate essences may be used in place of the pounded almonds and almond essence, or a three-coloured shape can be made by putting portions in separate basins with the desired 667 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS flavourings, colouring them of different hues, and pouring one on top of the other. Small moulds look very decora- tive. Meringues. Pound and sift half pound of lump sugar, whisk the whites of six eggs very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the sugar. Then, with a table or dessert spoon lay them out upon white paper in the shape of eggs, sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them remain ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon wet boards, and put them in a slow oven just hot enough to cause them to be light and slightly tinged. When the outside becomes quite crisp turn them over and lift the papers from them : dip your spoon into hot water, and with it clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered sugar, lay them upon a baking sheet, and dry on a screen or in a cool oven. They may be made a day or two before they are required if put away in a dry place. To serve, fill them with whipped cream flavoured either with vanilla or orange flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two together, dress in pyramid fashion upon a napkin, and serve. Should they happen to stick to the papers, moisten the papers underneath with water. Vegetables in Aspic. Cut half a dozen hard : boiled eggs into different shapes. Boil some cauliflower, cucumbers, French beans, and 668 Aspic. VEGETARIAN green peas in separate waters. Fill small timbales with these, decorating top and sides with small pieces of eggs, vegetables, and beetroot cut into different shapes. Pour in aspic as you fill your shape, and let one portion form before putting in any more. Stand on ice, and when required turn out on to an ashet and surround with watercress and the tender leaves of a lettuce. Boil in three quarts of water two large carrots, two onions, a turnip, and a head of celery all sliced, a good- sized bunch of savoury herbs, two bay leaves, rind of a lemon, a parsley root, twenty white peppers and salt to taste. When thoroughly cooked, strain very carefully into an earthenware crook to cool, after which pour into the pot again, being careful to keep back all sediments. Add the juice of two oranges, a pinch of sugar, and six ounces of Irish moss which has been steeped in two waters for at least three hours. Boil very gently for a couple of hours. Strain once more into another clean pot and whisk up a cupful of the vegetable stock (which must now be only half the quantity) with the whites of three eggs, and stir this gradually into the pot, and keep stirring until nearly boiling. Now add a pint of tarragon vinegar and a pinch of cayenne pepper, boil up, and let it stand by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, then strain. If the aspic is not stiff enough add some more Irish moss. 669 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Iced Cream of Orange. Six oranges, white of four eggs, four ounces sugar, and one pint cream. Boil the sugar in the strained juice of the six oranges to crackling height. Whip the cream to a froth and add the fine gratings of two orange skins. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, then add the orange and sugar syrup to it, drop by drop at first, and then quicker, whipping all the time. Now add the cream and mix well ; after which pour into a form and freeze for three hours, and turn out on to a crystal dish. Decor- ate with lithes or leaves of oranges from which you have removed the white pith seeds and clear skin. 670 LXXXVI.— (R.H.C.'s) Menu Clear Soup Fillet of Sole a la Financier Steak larded with Truffles and Oysters Iced Asparagus and Cream Roast Ortolans Salad Baba au Rhum Savoury Gr£ce Fruit 671 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS Clear Soup. Take a small knuckle of veal, same of venison and rough hough, five pounds in all, and half a dozen large giblets ; put in a pot and skim very carefully when coming to the boil. Boil gently but steadily for five or six hours, with a head of celery, a sliced carrot, half a turnip, a couple of sliced onions, a bunch of parsley, a bunch of chervil, a couple of bay leaves, two knots of lump sugar, with a seasoning of pepper and salt. Pour through a colander and let stand till cold, then remove the fat. Take a slice of ham, a sliced carrot and onion, and a piece of butter ; fry these till a thick glaze gathers on bottom of pan ; remove vegetables and ham, pour in a little stock to melt glaze. Strain and put in pot with the stock, along with one and a half breakfast- cupfuls of fish stock made as follows : — Put the bones and trimmings of two good-sized soles (any white fish will do), in a pot with two quarts water, bring to the boil, and skim carefully ; then add half a pint white wine, a bunch of fine herbs, an onion stuck with four cloves, a teaspoonful of coriander seeds, half a carrot, and two ounces ham which has been fried very crisp and pounded to a powder. Boil quickly for a good hour. Strain and put on fire again, and reduce till quantity is only one and a half breakfastcupfuls. Boil up, clearing in the usual way with whites of eggs and shells. Put a glass of sherry and the squeeze of a quarter of lemon in the soup tureen before pouring in the soup. 67a R.H.C.'s Fillet of Sole a la Financier. Fillet a couple of good thick English soles. Butter a pan, in which place the fillets. Season with pepper and salt, pour half a pint of sound cider over them, place buttered paper on top, and push into the oven for ten minutes. Rich Fish Sauce Financier. Make a rich sauce with three ounces of fresh butter, one ounce of strong shrimp butter, one teaspoonful of flour, three tablespoonfuls of medium cream, two breakfastcupfuls of the strained liquor the fish was cooked in, the strained liquor of twelve oysters, and season with pepper, salt, and a grate of nutmeg. Bring all to the boil, stirring continually the one way all the time of cooking. Remove the pot from the fire and put it in a pan of boiling water. Then put the yolks of four eggs into the mixture and stir carefully till cooked. If too thin add the yolk of another egg, or if too thick add a little more liquor from the fish. Be careful not to boil the sauce after the eggs are added. Then add a half-pint bottle of cocks' combs, truffles, and champignons, a dozen raw oysters without the beards, and a dozen small balls about the size of a marble made of lobster forcemeat. Heat up thoroughly, again taking care not to boil, and pour over the fillets, which have been kept hot on a silver dish. Steak Larded with Truffles and Oysters. Get. a very tender rump steak weighing about two pounds, and at least one and a half inches thick. Make 673 2 u BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS an incision in the side to near the centre, and put in a fresh oyster which has been plumped in boiling water for three seconds, and a small piece of truffle in another incision close to the oyster. Do this all round as close as possible without dividing the steak. Place on a double griller a thin slice of second steak same size as rump steak, and place the latter on top ; then put another slice of second steak on top of that again, and grill for six minutes on one side ; then turn and grill the other side for six minutes also. Remove outer slices of steak and brown rump steak for three minutes on each side in front of a clear fire. See that the gravy has been saved, which put in a pan with two table- spoonfuls of good brown stock, the juice of a tomato, a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce, a heaped teaspoonful of flour, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon ; bring all to the boil, and strain over the steak. Put a piece of Maitre d'Hotel butter on top of steak and garnish with French beans, cauliflower, green peas, and pyramid potatoes. If desired, the steak may be prepared as above (without the two outside slices), put in a greased paper bag placed on the grid bars of a hot oven and cooked for fifteen minutes. Maitre d'Hotel Butter. Put a quarter-pound of fresh butter upon a plate with one good tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter 674 R.H.C.'s teaspoonful of white pepper. Mix all well together and keep in a cool place. Potato Pyramids. Slice some raw peeled potatoes about a-quarter of an inch thick, then with a pastry cutter stamp out rounds like five-shilling pieces, half-crowns, and shillings. Dip each size in melted butter, sprinkle with salt, and place one on top of the other like a pyramid. Butter a baking tin and put them on it, and bake in the oven for an hour. They ought to be dark brown. Iced Asparagus and Cream. Boil a bunch of asparagus in the usual manner, after which place it on a sieve, and when thoroughly drained and cold place the sieve on top of ice till grass very cold, and serve with whipped cream in a separate sauce- bowl which has also been iced. Roast Ortolans. Take eight ortolans and wrap each in a vine leaf and place on a baking tin into which you have poured a little salted water. Push into a fierce oven for abou five minutes, and serve with a plain salad. Salad. Wash two good-sized lettuces, separate the leaves, and dry in a cloth. Pluck them into small pieces and place in a bowl, and sprinkle with a little chopped burnet. Put into a large wooden spoon one and a-half spoonfuls of French vinegar and three-quarters of a spoonful of 675 BANQUETS OF THE NATIONS tarragon vinegar ; mix into this one and a-half saltspoon- fuls of salt, three-quarters of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the scrape of an onion. Stir with a wooden or silver fork till the salt is pretty well melted. Add six spoonfuls of oil to the mixture gradually, stirring all the time and allowing it to rapidly flow over the spoon on to the lettuce till all the oil is used. With the spoon and fork used mix all together very gently but thoroughly. Baba au Rhum. Dissolve half an ounce of yeast in half a cup of milk. Warm half a pound of sifted flour. Make a light sponge with a third part of the flour, yeast, and warm water. Let it rise well, add the remainder of the flour, a handful of sifted sugar, a quarter-pound of melted fresh butter. Work in gradually three yolks of eggs, and three whole eggs one after the other. Beat it well, grate a half of lemon peel into it ; let it rise, work up again, and let it rise again. Fill into a buttered mould or tin and let it rise again. Put it into the oven and bake for half an hour. Pour over rum sauce, letting it soak well into the sponge. Rum Sauce. Heat four tablespoonfuls of cream to boiling point in a bain marie. Take the pan out and whip the yolks of four eggs with a large tablespoonful of white sugar in it. When well mixed and the sugar melted put in the bain marie again and whip for about twenty minutes. 676 K.H.C.'s Add three glasses of Jamaica rum and serve in sauce- boat. Savoury Grece. Place twelve freshly-opened medium-sized oysters with their liquor in a pan with three-quarters of a gill of white wine, and just bring to boiling point. Skim well, remove the beards, squeeze them in a tammy cloth to extract the juice, and strain with the rest of the liquor. Heat in a saucepan one tablespoonful of melted butter, add a quarter chopped seeded sweet pepper, one finely-chopped shallot, and one finely- chopped well-peeled and cleaned fresh mushroom ; then gently brown for five minutes, stirring once in a while. Stir in one tablespoonful of flour till quite smooth for half a minute ; add the strained oyster liquor, three tablespoonfuls of cream, two saltspoonfuls of salt, a quarter saltspoonful of cayenne, and half a pinch of grated nutmeg, then gently simmer for six minutes. Remove the pan to the side of the fire, put in the oysters cut in quarters, with a squeeze of lemon, a dozen and a half freshly boiled and shelled shrimps cut in small pieces. Mix well, seeing that the mixture is kept hot but not cooking. Fill six oyster shells with this ; strew some very fine breadcrumbs on top and push into a fierce oven to brown lightly, or brown with a salamander. If to be served cold add two leaves of gelatine in place of half of the flour (omit breadcrumbs). Fill moulds, and turn out when cold and decorate with aspic jelly. 677 LXXXVIL— COOKING IN PAPER BAGS. Cooking en papillote, under its new name of " paper bag cookery," having created some little stir in the gas- tronomic world, I have given a few suggestions which may be of assistance to those who desire to adopt an old fashion in a slightly more elaborate form. Meats, poultry, and fish can be successfully roasted, boiled, stewed, grilled, and fried in small quantities, but for elaborate made-up dishes and sauces, the paper bag is useless. Bags can be bought from any first-class ironmonger, but if a little trouble is not objected to, and cheapness is desired, equally good results can be got by folding grease- proof paper to the desired shape, and hermetically sealing it by first folding the edges and fastening with flat paper clips. Hundreds of the plainer recipes in this book can be adapted to Paper Bag Cookery ; but make sure that the following particulars are observed : — i. The oven must be heated up to 300 degrees Fahren- heit before putting in the food, and seven minutes after lowered to 150 degrees, or place a piece of paper in the oven, and if it browns, it is hot enough. 2. Well grease the foods with oil, butter, or dripping before putting them in the bag, then seal it hermeti- cally with clips. 3. On no account put the bag on a solid iron shelf in the oven (gas or kitchen range). It must be placed on the bars of the oven, or on a trivet or gridiron, to ensure an even heat all round the paper. 4. When water is put in the bag, it is not necessary to grease it or the foods. 678 ^uwjYiimj in jt nr i^ix. jjxivj^ The following may be taken as a fairly correct of the time the various dishes will take to cook. Fish — 2 lbs. 20 i lb. filleted 12 Stew for 6 . . . . 60 Poultry — Chicken, large . 50 young . 30 Boiling Fowl . 1 hour 20 „ Duck 1 jj „ Duckling 35 Turkey (ij to 18 lbs.) 2 »i Goose .... ■ 'I » Gosling .... • 1* j) Joints and Grills — Beef, 4 lbs. 5° Veal, 6 lbs. . 1* jj Pork, 4 lbs. . 5° Mutton, 6 lbs. leg 4 )» „ 4 lbs. shoulder 45 „ loin 1 )» 20 „ chops 12 „ cutlets 7 Rump Steak, slice 14 Fillet of Beef, slice 7 Sausages 8 Bacon, slice of thin 3 Ham, slice . 6 Game — Pigeon . . . 3° „ young 15 Partridge 25 „ young IS Grouse 25 young 18 Pheasant 40 „ young 3° Vegetables — Potatoes 35 Peas 3° 679 index INDEX SOUPS. Barley Cream (Poland), 492 Bean, Black (Mexico), 453 Do. and Buttermilk (B. Bombay \ 247 Beef Broth, and Dumplings (Thibet), 640 Beer (Norway), 470 Birds' Nests (N. China), 94 Broth (Siberia), 568 Do. (Asia Minor), 54 Do. Mutton (Finland), 140 Brown (Vegetarian), 561 Cabbage (Mexico), 454 Calves Tail (Argentine), 41 Carmine (Roumania), 510 Carrot Puree (Finland), 140 Do. and Rice (Norway), 470 Cherry (Sweden), 615 Do. (N, Germany), 167 Chicken Broth (Egypt), 119 Do. do. (Hungary), 220 Do. (Morocco). 461 Do. (Palestine), 482 Do. (Syria), 605 Clam (America), 23 Clear (R. H. C), 672 Do. (N. France), 148 Do. with Dumplings (Sweden), 615 Do, with Liver Dumplings (Austria), 59 Do. with Fish Balls (Hebrew), 201 Do. with Vegetables (Belgium), 65 Couscous (Algiers), 18 Crayfish (N. France), 148 Do. (Jamaica), 409 Cream (Vegetarian), 661 Crust in the Pot (S. France), 158 Curry (S. Africa), 9 Cuscus (Arabia), 33 Dry (Portugal), 503 Egg and Coriander (Morocco), 465 Eel with Dumplings (N. Germany), Endive, Cream of (Belgium), 65 Fish (Holland), 209 Do. (Canary Islands), 87 Do. and Meat (Malay), 445 Do. and Mushrooms (Japan), 416 Do and Sauce (Scotland), 538 Do. Consomme (Japan), 416 Fowl, Bamboo, etc. (Japan), 419 Game (Bulgaria), 81 Giblet (Denmark), 113 Green (Greece), 186 Hare (England), 128 Hot Pot (Malay), 445 Hotch-Potch (Scotland), 537 Jonga (Crayfish) (Jamaica), 409 Kidney, Clear (Siam), 564 Do. Thick (Siam), 564 Lentil (B. Bombay), 247 Macaroni (Turkestan), 647 Do. (Sicily), 573 Meat (Poland). 491 Mulligatawny (H. Madras), 305 Do. (H. Mysore), 318 Do. (Ceylon), 287 Mutton (Kurdistan), 437 Do. (Persia), 488 Nettle (Russia), 519 Onion (S. Spain), 599 Oxtail (Brazil), 75 Partan Bree (Scotland), 538 Potatoes, Puree of (Switzerland), 627 Pot-au-feu (N. France), 148 Rice (Armenia), 48 Do. (N. Spain), 588 Sheep's Head (Scotland), 536 66 $81 INDEX Soups — continued. Shrimp (S. France), 158 Scrooch (Ireland), 385 Snail (S. Germany), 176 Skink, Balnamoon (Ireland), 385 Solferino (Italy), 398 Spanish National (N. Spain), 589 Tomato (America), 23 Do. (Servia), 552 Turtle (West Indies), 379 Veal and Potato Quenelles (Holland), 209 Vegetable (Italy), 398 Do. (Korea), 433 Do. (Turkey), 651 Do. Clear (England), 128 Do. Spiced (Java), 426 Vermicelli (Korea), 433 Do. (S. China), no Wheat Meal and Egg (Soudan), 583 Wine(S. Germany), 176 FISH. Bream, Fried, Fillets of (Korea), 434 Do. Pudding (Sweden), 617 Do. Steamed (Siam), 561 Carp, Braised (N. Germany), 167 Do. Curried (M. Bombay), 254 Do. do. (M. Central Provinces), 276 Clams, Baked (Samoa), 533 Cod, Balls of (F. Parsee), 334 Cod, Boiled (Portugal), 504 Do. do. (Ireland), 385 Do. Farced (Palestine), 482 Do. Pudding (Norway), 470 Do. do. (Sweden). 617 Do. Smoked (Persia), 486 Do. and Tomatoes (N. Spain), 589 Cod's Head, Dressed (Sweden), 616 Coulibac, Fish Pie (Russia), 520 Crab and Cucumber (Malay), 449 Crab Croquettes (N. China), 98 Crab Dough-nuts (Korea), 434 Do. Pie (Scotland), 546 Do. Salad (Japan), 421 Do. do. (Jamaica), 409 Do. Savour}' (America), 29 Crabs, Boiled (S. China), no Do. Stuffed (Java), 428 Crayfish, Baked (Hawaii), 197 Do. Farced (Poland), 492 Do. Fritters (Japan's 418 Do. Stewed (Servia) 553 Eels, Stewed (Madagascar), 442 Do. do. (North-West China), 95 Fish, Baked (Ceylon), 283 Do. do. (Samoa), 533 Dq. Balls (Hebrew), 201 Fish Balls, Curried (F. Parsee), 334 Do. Brains (Malay), 444 Do. Curried (Siam), 560 Do. Farced (Palestine), 482 Do. do. Fried (F. Parsee) 333 Do. Fried Fillets of (Korea), 434 Do. do. (Java), 426 Do. do. (S. China), no Do. do. (Syria), 605 Do. do. (Asia Minor), 54 Do. do. Yellow (S. China), 107 Do. Gills and Stomachs (N. China), 101 Do. Mayonnaise (Siam), 561 Do. Minced Roast (Burmah), 262 Do. Another way (Burmah), 264 Do. Pickled (Canary Islands), S7 Do. Pie (Russia), 520 Do. Pies (Syria), 605 Do. Pillauof(M. Punjab), 354 Do. Plucked (Norway), 471 Do. Pudding (Sweden), 617 Do. do. (Denmark), 113 Do. do. (Norway), 470 Do. Raw (Japan), 416 Do. Roasted (Java), 427 Do. Roes Curried (Java), 427 Do. Pickled (Canary Islands), 87 Do. Stewed (Hungary), 220 Do. do. (S. France), 159 Do. do. (Russia), 520 Do. in Garlic (Morocco), 463 Flounders, Fillets of (Jamaica), 409 Do. do. (West Indies), 379 Do. Fried (Jamaica), 409 Gurnard Stewed (Brazil), 75 INDEX Fish — continued. Haddock Balls, (F. Parsee), 334 Do. Boiled (Ireland), 385 Do. Farced (H. Palestine), 482 Do. Fillet of (West Indies), 379 Do. do. (Jamaica), 410 Do. Plucked (Norway), 471 Do. Pudding (Sweden), 617 Do. Stuffed (Scotland), 539 Hake, Bails of (F. Parsee), 334 Do. Boiled (Portugal), 504 Do. Farced (H. Palestine), 482 Do. Plucked (Norway), 471 Do. Pudding (Norway), 470 Halibut Balls (F. Parsee), 334 Do. Boiled (Portugal), '504 Do. do. (Ireland), 385 Do. Callops (Hebrew), 201 Do. Pudding (Norway), 470 Herring Balls Curried (M. Bengal), 239 Herrings in Garlic (Morocco), 463 Do. Grilled (Ireland), 386 Ling, Boiled (Portugal), 504 Do. do. (Ireland), 385 Do Collops (Hebrew), 201 Do. Farced (H. Palestine), 482 Do. Plucked (Norway), 471 Do. Pudding (Norway), 470 Do. do. (Sweden), 617 Living Fish (Japan), 416 Mackerel Curried (Ceylon), 283 Do. Fillets of (Mexico), 454 Do. Stewed (S. Africa), 9 Mullets Red (Italy), 399 Do. do. (S. Spain), 599 Do. Roast (Hawaii), 197 Mussels, Stuffed (Turkey), 652 Old Wives (Jamaica), 409 Oysters (Samoa), 533 Do. Baked (Hawaii), 198 Do. Omelet Souffle (America), 24 Do. Ragout (N. Germany), 169 Partan Pie (Scotland), 546 Perch, Balls of (F. Parsee), 334 Pike and Eel Pudding (Holland), 211 Do. Fillets of (Greece), 186 Do. Stuffed (Poland), 493 Plaice, Farced (H. Palestine), 482 Do. Fillets of (Jamaica), 410 Plaice, Fillets of (West Indies), 379 Prawns Baked (Samoa), 533 Do. Roast (Burmah), 265 Do. do. (Siam), 561 Do. Stuffed (Java), 428 Prawn Curry (M. Bengal) 239 Do. Pillau of (West Indies), 381 Roes, Roasted Fish (Java), 427 Salmon Boiled (England), 129 Do. Broiled (Holland), 210 Do. Fried (H. Bengal), 231 Do. do. (O. Parsee), 340 Do. do. Curried (M. Mysore), 323 Do. do. Fillets of (Finland), 141 Do. Grilled, Curried (M. Madras), 309 Do. do. (Japan), 416 Do. Roasted, Kippered (Thibet), 640 Do. Raw (Hawaii), 197 Do. Smoked (Norway), 469 Do. Steamed, Curried (M. Bombay), 254 Do. Stewed (Belgium), 66 Do. do. (S. China), 107 Do. and Vegetables (Siam), 559 Sardines Fried (Canary Islands), 88 Sea Slugs (N. China), 94 Do. (S. China), 108 Sharks' Fins (S. China), 107 Do. (N. China), 96 Shell Fish (N. China), 96 Shrimp Balls (S. China), 108 Do. Croquettes (M. Bombay), 255 Do. Curried (Java), 428 Do. Fritters (Java), 427 Do. Mayonnaise (N. China), 93 Do. Scalloped (Malay), 445 Skate, Boiled (Argentine), 42 Do. Teased (Scotland), 539 Sole Baked and Asparagus (Austria), 60 Do. Balls of (F. Parsee), 334 Do. Curried (M. Madras), 309 Do. Farced (H. Palestine), 482 Do. Filleted (England), 130 Do. do. (N. France), 149 Do. do. (West Indies), 379 Do. do. (Jamaica), 409 Do. do. Cold (Belgium), 67 Do. do. Curried (M. Mysore), 323 Do. Plucked (Norway), 471 683 INDEX Fish — continued. Sole Pudding (Norway), 470 Do. Sauce Financiare (R. H. C), 11 Do. a la Marguery (N. France), 149 Sturgeon (Siberia), 568 Do. Stewed (Sicily), 573 Terrapin, Stewed (America), 23 Trepang, (Sea slugs) (N. China), 94 Do. do. (S. China), 108 Trout Cutlets, Curried (M. Cent. Provinces) Do. Garnished (Switzerland), 627 Do. Roasted Kippered (Thibet), 639 Do. and Salad (S. Germany), 177 Do. Stewed (Bulgaria), 83 Do. do. (S. China), 107 Turbot, Baked Roumania), 510 Do. Balls of (F. Parsee), 334 Do. Boiled (Portugal), 504 276 Turbot, Boiled (Ireland), 385 Do. Curried (Siam), 560 do. (H. Bengal), 231 Farced (H. Palestine), 482 Fried (Turkey), 651 Plucked (Norway), 471 Pudding (Norway), 470 Turtle Balls (Jamaica), 441 'Do. Fried (Malay), 446 Whiting Balls (F. Parsee), 334 Do. Curried (Ceylon), 283 Farced (H. Palestine), 482 Filleted (Jamaica) 410 do. (West Indies), 379 Plucked (Norway), 471 Pudding (Norway), 470 Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. ENTREES. Artichokes, Farced (Russia), 524 Do. Stuffed (Turkey), 654 Bamia, Stewed (Armenia). 50 Bananas, Stuffed (Jamaica), 411 Beef, Boiled (Portugal), 503 Do. do. (Ireland), 385 Do. do. and Curried (Nepal), 329 Do. do. and Horse-radish Sauce (Austria), 61 Do. Braised (Hungary), 223 Do. do. (S. Fiance), 161 Do. do. (Jamaica), 410 Do. do. Fillet of (N. France), 151 Do. Brisket of (Ireland), 385 Do. Croquettes (Poland), 495 Do. Curried (M. Mysore), 324 Do. Do. (R. Rajputana), 373 Do. Do. (M. Bengal), 241 Do. Curried (Nepal), 329 Do. Dried (Brazil), 76 Do. Fillet of (Truffles, etc.), (Russia), 523 Do. do. (Holland), 212 Do. do. Marrow and Horse-radish (Canary Islands), 88 Do. Fried and Curried (Nepal), 330 Do. do. (Canary Islands), 88 ■' Do. Grilled (Korea), 433 Do. Olives (Norway), 472 Beef Pies (Turkey), 653 Do. Stewed (Mexico), 456 Do. Stewed (Norway), 473 Do. do. (Burmah), 262 Do. do. and Curried (Nepal), 329 Do. Stewed Roast (Denmark), 114 Beefsteak and Eggs (Servia), 554 Bird's Nests (S. China), 107 Birds, Boneless (Beef Olives), (Norway), 472 Blackcock, Cream of (N. France), 150 Boar, Roast Wild (Russia), 522 Boxty (Ireland), 388 Do. another way (Ireland), 389 Cabbage and Oysters (N. Germany), 168 Do. and Liver Dumplings (N. Germany), 168 Do. and Calf s Head (N. Germany), 168 Do. Sour and Sausages (N. Germany), 168 Calf's Feet, Curried (America), 24 Capon, Braised (Belgium), 71 Chicken Balls, Curried (R. Rajputana), 372 Do. Boiled (Howtowdie), (Scotland), 541 Do. do. (S. China), 107 Do. Braised (Servia), 552 Do. do. (Turkestan), 645 Do. Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Curried (Malay), 448 684 INDEX Entrees— continued. Chicken, Curried (Madras M.), 311 Do. do. (Siam). 561 Do. a la Financiare (Sweden), 618 Do. Fried (S. China), 109 Do. do. (M. Puojab), 355 Do. Fricasse (Sweden), 618 Do. Minced Balls of (Egypt), 120 Do and Pancake Croquettes (Russia), 524 Do. Paste (Turkey), 654 Do. Pillau of (Japan), 417 Do. Pillau (M. Bombay), 256 Do. do. (M. Bengal), 240 Do. Pot Pie (America), 25 Do. Rissoles of (Armenia), 51 Do. Roast (M. Punjab), 356 ,Do. Stewed, Curried (Nepal), 330 Do. do. do. (R. Rajputana), 372 Do. do. Fillets of (Persia), 487 Do. do. with Rice (Brazil), 77 Do. do. (Sicily), 575 Do. do. (S. Africa), 12 Do. do. (Afghanistan), 6 Do. do. (Burmah), 263 Do. and Salad (Palestine), 483 Do. in Rice (N. China), 97 Do. with Vegetable Marrow ;Malay), 448 Chittlings, Stuffed (Sausages), (S. China), 108 Duck, Braised (Sicily), 577 Do. Wild (Sicily), 577 Do. Fillet of (West Indies), 382 Eggs, Fried (F. Parsee), 333 Do. Plant (N. China), 99 Do. do. (Persia), 486 Dp*, do. Farced (Japan), 419 Do. do. Fried (Egypt), 120 Do. do. Stuffed (Soudan), 584 Do. do. do. (H. Palestine), 484 Do. Stuffed (Asia Minor), 55 Do. Roasted Duck's (Burmah), 264 Do. and Fish, Steamed (Japan), 420 Do. and Rice (Mexico), 454 Elk, Curried (Ceylon), 284 Fish, Fried Veal, and Vegetables (Italy) 401 Fowl, Boiled with Rice (Sweden), 618 Do. Braised (Belgium), 71 Do. do. and Eggs (Algiers), 19 Do. do. and Rice (Bulgaria), 83 Do. Curried (Ceylon), 285 Fowl, Hashed (Thibet), 638 Do. Roasted Cold (Turkey), 656 Do. Stewed (Korea), 433 Do. do. (Portugal), 505 Do. and Olives (Morocco), 462 Do. and Pancake Croquettes (Russia), 524 Frogs, Fried (N. China), 102 Goose, Stewed (Madagascar), 441 Do. Curried (M. Mysore), 325 Do. Fillets of (Servia), 554 Goose's Liver Cutlets (S. Germany), 178 Grouse, Cream of (N. France), 150 Grouse Stewed (S. Spain), 601 Guinea Fowl Curried (Siam), 562 Do. do. do. and Stewed (Nepal), 330 Do. do. Roasted (M. Punjab), 356 Do. do. Fillets of (Persia), 487 Do. do. Roasted, Fried (Nepal), 330 Haggis (Scotland), 540 Ham, Boiled (S. China), 108 Hare, Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Curried (Ceylon), 285 Do. do. (M. Madras). 311 Do. Fillets of (Roumania), 513 Kidd, Minced Balls (M. Central Provinces), 277 Do. Pillau of (M. Punjab), 358 Lamb, Curried (M. Central Provinces), 279 Do. do. (M. Kashmir), 296 Do. do. (Nepal), 329 Lapwings, Braised (Russia), 525 Larks, Braised (Persia), 488 Do. and Salad (S. Spain), 602 Liver, Curried (R. Rajuptana), 372 Do. Game Balls (Bulgaria), 81 Do. Grilled (Morocco), 464 Do. Quenelles (Belgium), 66 Macaroni (Italy), 400 Do. Spatzle (S. Germany), 179 Do. with Mince (Syria), 61 1 Meat Balls (Ceylon), 285 Meats Boiled (Nepal) 329 Meat Grilled (Java), 429 Do. Pie (Morocco), 465 Do. Stewed and Baked (S. Spain), 600 Do. do. with Cauliflower (Syria), 610 Meats do. (Argentine), 43 Do. do. (Siberia), 569 Do. and Fish Curried (Java), 429 68 S INDEX Entrees — continued. Meats and Rice Shape (Syria), 608 Do. Turnovers (Argentine), 43 Do. Fried and Curried (O. Parsee), 340 Do. in Vine Leaves (Egypt), 124 Melon, Stuffed (Arabia), 35 Mince Balls (Asia Minor), 55 Do. Collops, Scottish way (M. Bengal), 540 Do. Curried (S. Africa), 11 Do. do. (M. Bengal), 241 Do. Roast (Syria), 609 Do. Meat Balls, Curried (M. Madras), 310 Do. do. do. (O. Parsee), 339 Mushrooms, Farced (Turkey), 656 Do. do. (Vegetarian), 665 Mutton, Braised (Jamaica), 410 Do. Boiled (Kurdistan), 437 Do. do. Curried (Nepal), 329 Do. Collops (Scotland), 540 Do. Croquettes (Armenia), 51 Do. Curried (Afghanistan), 5 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 371 Do. .do. (Malay), 447 Do. Curried (M. Bombay), 257 Do. do. (M. Punjab), 357 Do. Cutlets (England), 130 Do. do. (N. Germany), 169 Do. do. Sweet (M. Kashmir), 297 Do. do. with Vegetables (England), 130 Do. Fillets of (Brazil), 77 Do. Fried, Curried (R. Rajputana), 372 Do. do. do. (Nepal), 330 Do. do. do. (Burmah), 266 Do. Grilled (Egypt), 121 Do. do. (Java), 429 Do. Leg of (Egypt), 123 Do. Minced Balls of (Asia Minor), 55 Do. Pillau of (R. Rajputana), 371 Do. do. (M. Madras), 310 Do. Ragout (Bulgaria), 82 Do. do. (Thibet), 639 Do. Roast (Arabia), 35 Do. Stewed (Ireland), 386 Do. do. (S. France), 160 Do. do. (Algiers), 18 Do. do. (Turkestan), 646 Do. do. (Morocco), 461 Do. do. Curried (Nepal), 330 Mutton with Cauliflower (Syria), 610 Olives, Stuffed with Chestnuts (Greece), 187 Omelette, with Mushrooms (Vegetarian), 664 Onions, Farced (Holland), 213 Ortolans, Roast (R. H. C), 675 Ox-Palates, Farced (Italy), 400 Ox-Tongue, Braised (Belgium), 69 Oyster, Souffle, Omelette (America), 24 Packet (Ireland), 387 Partridges, Braised (Bulgaria), 84 Do. do (Sicily), 577 Do. Curried, Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Fillets of (Persia), 487 Do. Roast (M. Punjab), 356 Do. and Red Cabbage (S. Germany), 178 Do. Stewed (S. Spain), 601 Do. do. Curried (Nepal), 330 Pasties, Venison (England), 131 Pheasant, Braised (Sicily), 577 Do. Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Curried (M. Bengal), 242 Do. Curried, Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Fillets of (Korea), 434 Do. do. (Persia), 487 Do. Roast (M. Punjab), 356 Do. Stewed (S. Spain), 601 Do. do. Curried (Nepal), 330 Pigeons, Broiled (Morocco), 464 Do. Curried (M. Mysore), 324 Do. do. (M. Central Provinces), 278 Do. do. Stewed (Nepal), 330 Do. Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. and Cabbage (Sicily), 577 Do. and Crayfish (Hungary), 224 Do. Fillets of (Belgium), 67 Do. do. (Persia), 487 Do. Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Pillau of (M. Mysore), 324 Do. Rissoles (Algiers), 19 Do. Roast (Turkestan), 647 Do. Wild, Stewed (S. Spain), 601 Do. Young (Soudan), 584 Do. Breasts, Braised (Peisia), 488 Do. Wood, Braised (Canary Islands), 89 Do. Eggs (S. China), 1 10 Pig's Feet (Ireland), 387 Do. Kidneys and Mushrooms (Thibet), 636 686 Entrees — continued. INDEX Plover, Fillets of (Holland), 214 Do. Golden, in Flames (N. Germany) 172 Do. Green, in Flames (N. Germany) 172 Potato Fritters (Hebrew), 204 Pork, Boiled (S. China), 109 Do. Boiled, Curried (Nepal), 329 Do. Curried (Siam), 562 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 373 Do. do. Stewed (Nepal), 330 Do. Cutlets (N. Spain), 590 Do. do. (Servia), 533 Do. Fried (Madagascar), 441 Do. do. Curried (Nepal), 330 Do. in Garlic (Portugal), 504 Do. and Macaroni (Burmah), 263 Do. Meat Balls (N. China), 102 Do. Stewed (Norway), 473 Prawns, Baked (Samoa), 533 Do. Pillau of (West Indies), 381 Ptarmigan, Roast (Norway), 474 Do. Zephyrs of (Sweden), 621 Puchero, Stew (Canary Islands), 88 Pullets' Pinions, Ragout of (West Indies), 380 Quails, Curried (S. Africa), 13 Do. do. (M. Kashmir), 296 Do. Pillau of (Arabia), 37 Quenelles, Chicken (Finland), 143 Do. Chicken Liver (Bulgaria), 81 Do. Grouse (Finland), 143 Do. Hare (Finland), 143 Do. Liver (Belgium), 66 Do. Partridge (Finland), 143 Do. Pheasant (Finland), 143 Do. Pigeon (Finland), 143 Do. Rabbit (S. Spain), 601 Do. do. (Finland), 143 Do. Black Game (Finland), 143 Do. Veal (Finland), 143 Rabbits, Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Curried (Nepal), 329 Do. Another Way (Nepal), 330 Do. a la Financiere (Sweden), 617 Do. Fricasse (Sweden), 617 Ravioles (Greece), 188 Rice Timbales (Armenia), 50 Rissoles a la Horly (Vegetarian), 662 Roast Beef Stewed (Denmark), 1 14 Sheep's Brains Croquettes (Mexico), 455 Sheep's Head (Scotland), 536 Snipe in Flames (N. Germany), 172 Sour Crout and Oysters (N. Germany), 168 Sparrows, Braised (Persia), 488 Spatzle (S. Germany), 179 Steak, Truffles, Oysters (R. H. C), 673 Stew (Canary Islands), 88 Do. Olla Pudrida (N. Spain), 590 Do. Irish (Ireland), 386 Do. with Semolina (Morocco), 465 Sweetbreads, Fricasse of (Sweden), 617 Do. a la Financiare (Sweden), 617 Do. Stewed (Roumania), 512 Teal, Braised (Sicily), 577 Do. Fillets of (West Indies), 382 Do. do. (Italy), 403 Do. Slices of (N. China), 99 Thrushes in Cases (S. France), 162 Tomatoes and Eggs (Canary Islands), 89 Do. Stuffed (Soudan), 584 Do. do (N. Spain), 591 Tongues, Sheep (Sicily), 567 Tripe, Stewed (Poland), 493 Turkey, Galantine of (America), 27 Turtle Balls (Jamaica), 411 Veal, Braised (Denmark), 115 Do. Boiled, Curried (Nepal), 329 Do. Cutlets with Vegetables (England), 130 Do. do. (N. Germany), 169 Do. do. (Sweden), 617 Do. Fricasse (Sweden), 617 Do. a la Financiare (Sweden), 617 Do. Fish, etc, Fried (Italy), 617 Do. Fried, Curried (Nepal), 330 Do. Minced (Bengal), 234 Do. Roast (Portugal), 506 Do. Stewed (Norway), 473 Do. do. (Hungary), 221 Do. do. Curried (Nepal), 329, 330 Venison, Braised (S. Africa), 10 Do. Chops and Grapes (Switzerland), 628 Do. Curried (Kashmir), 297 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 373 Do. do. (Malay), 450 Do. Boiled, Curried (Nepal), 329 Do. Curried (Siam), 563 Do. Fried, Curried (Nepal), 330 Do. Stewed, Curried (Nepal), 320 687 INDEX Venison, Grilled (Algiers), 19 Do. Pasties (England), 131 Do. Stewed (Afghanistan), 4 Do. do. (Norway), 473 Vegetable Croquettes (Turkey), 655 Entrees — continued. Vegetable Marrows, Farced (Syria), 605 Walnut Cutlets (Yegetarian), 663 Wheat Meal Croquettes (R. Rajputana) 370 Widgeon, Fillets of (West Indies), 382 Do. do. (Italy), 403 CURRIES. Artichokes, Jerusalem (H. Madras), 303 Bananas, Green (H. Madras), 303 Bean and Buttermilk Soup (B. Bombay), Beans, French (H. Bengal), 232 Do. (B. Central Provinces), 270 Beef (M. Mysore), 324 Do. (R. Rajputana), 374 Do. (Burmah), 262 Do. (M. Bengal), 241 Do. Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Stewed (Nepal), 330 Beetroot (M. Central Provinces), 277 Bream (Siam), 561 Cabbage (B. Rajputana), 366 Do. Young Green (B. Kashmir), 291 Calf s Feet (America), 24 Carp (M. Bombay), 254 Do. (M. Central Provinces), 276 Carrots (B. Bombay), 248 Do. Stuffed (M. Mysore), 317 Cauliflower (B. Rajputana), 365 Do. (H. Bengal), 232 Chicken (Persia), 487 Do. (M. Madras), 311 Do. (Siam), 561 Do. Balls (R. Rajputana), 372 Do. Fried (M. Punjab), 355 Do. do. (Nepal), 331 Do. Pillau of (Japan), 417 Do. do. (M. Bombay), 256 Do. do. (M. Bengal), 240 Do. Roast (O. Parsee), 341 Do. Fried (M. Punjab), 355 Do. Stewed (Burmah), 263 Do. do. (Nepal), 331 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 374 Do. and Vegetable Marrow (Malay), Cod, Balls of (F. Parsee), 334 Crabs, Stuffed (Java), 428 247 Cucumber and Crabs (Malay), 449 Cucumbers, Curried (MvCentral Provinces), 277 Do. Stuffed (Asia Minor), 56 Curd and Rice (B. Punjab), 348 Duck, Stewed (Burmah), 264 Do. do. (Nepal), 330 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 373 Eggs, Fried (F. Parsee), 333 Egg Plant (H. Bengal), 233 Do. Pillau of (H. Mysore), 316 Elk, Stewed (Ceylon), 284 Fish Balls (O. Parsee), 334 Do. Brains (Malay), 444 Do. Fried (Java), 426 Do. Minced (Burmah), 264 Do. Pillau (M. Punjab), 354 Do. Roast (Burmah), 262 Do. do. (Java), 427 Do. Roes (Java), 427 Fowl, Roast (O. Parsee), 341 Do. Stewed (Ceylon), 285 Goose, Stewed (M. Mysore), 325 Gram Flour Cakes (B. Bombay), 249 Guinea-Fowl (Siam), 562 Guinea-Fowl, Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. do. Stewed (Nepal), 331 Haddock, Balls of (O. Parsee), 334 Hake, Balls of (O. Parsee), 334 Hare, Stewed (M. Madras), 311 Do. do. (Ceylon), 285 Do. do. (Nepal), 331 Herring Balls (M. Bengal), 239 Horse-radish Pods (H. Mysore), 317 Kid Balls (M. Central Provinces), 277 Do. Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. Pillau of (M. Punjab), 358 Do. Minced (H. Bengal), 234 Do. Stewed (Nepal), 331 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 374 Kidneys, Stewed (R. Rajputana), 372 688 Curries — continued. INDEX Kidneys, Grilled (R. Rajputana), 372 Lady's Fingers (H. Bengal), 232 Lamb Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. Braised (Persia), 486 Do. Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Grilled (M. Bengal), 240 Do. do. (M. Bombay), 256 Do. Pillau of (Turkestan), 11 Do. Do. (Afghanistan), 3 Do. Stewed (Nepal), 330, 331 Do. do. (M. Kashmir), 296 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 373, 374 Do. do. (M. Central Provinces), 279 Lentils (B. Punjab), 349 Do. (B. Central Provinces), 269 Do. Soup (B. Bombay), 247 Do. Croquettes (H. Bengal), 233 Do. Crusts (B. Central Provinces), 272 Do. and Curd (B. Rajputana), 365 Do. Fried Red (H. Bengal), 230 Do. Soup (B. Bombay),, 247 Do. Fried, Spiced (H. Madras), 302 Do. do. (O. Parsee), 338 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 370 Lettuce (B. Kashmir), 292 Liver, Grilled (Morocco), 464 Do. Stewed (R. Rajputana), 372 Mackerel (Ceylon), 283 Meat Balls (Ceylon), 285 Do. Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. Fish, etc., Stew (Java), 429 Do. Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Grilled (Java), 429 Do. with Green Peas (O. Parsee), 340 Mince (H. Bengal), 234 Do. Scottish way (H. Bengal), 234 Do. (S. Africa), II Do. Balls (O. Parsee), 339 Do. do. Grilled (Asia Minor), 55 Do. Rissoles (M. Madras), 310 Mulligatawny (H. Mysore), 318 Do. (H. Madras), 305 Do. (Ceylon), 287 Mushrooms, Roast (Burma!)), 263 Do. Stewed (B. Punjab), 347 Mutton (Afghanistan), 5 Do. (M. Bombay), 257 Do. (M. Punjab), 357 Mutton, Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. Fried (R. Rajputana), 372 Do. do. (Nepal), 330 Do. do. (Burmah), 266 Do. Pillau of (M. Madras), 310 Do. Do. (R. Rajputana), 371 Do. Stewed (Malay), 447 Do. do. (Nepal), 330 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 374 Do. Sweet Cutlets (M. Kashmir), 297 Do. Stewed Neck of (Morocco), 461 Do. Saddle of (Morocco), 463 Partridges, Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Roast (M. Punjab), 356 Do. Stewed (Nepal), 331 Peas, Green (B. Kashmir), 292 Do. do. (B. Central Provinces), 272 Perch Balls (F. Parsee), 334 Pheasants, Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Roast (M. Punjab), 356 Do. Stewed (M. Bengal), 242 Do. do. (Nepal), 330 Pigeons (M. Central Provinces), 278 Do. (M. Mysore), 324 Do. Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Stewed (Nepal), 330 Pork (Siam), 562 Do. Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Stewed (Nepal), 331 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 373 Do. and Macaroni (Burmah), 263 Potatoes (B. Bombay), 248 Do. (Ceylon), 287 Do. (H. Madras), 304 Do. (B. Rajputana), 365 Potato Salad (Malay), 444 Potatoes and Rice (B. Central Provinces), 269 Do. Stewed (Ceylon), 287 Do. Stuffed (B. Punjab), 345 Prawns (M. Bengal), 239 Do. Pillau of (West Indies), 381 Do. Roast (Burmah), 265 Do. do. (Siam), 561 Do. Stuffed (Java), 428 Pumpkin, Stewed (Ceylon), 286 Quails (S. Africa), 13 Do. (M. Kashmir), 296 689 2 X INDEX Curries — continued. Quails, Pillau of (Arabia), 37 Rabbits, Stewed (Nepal), 330 Rice and Curd (B. Punjab), 348 Do. Fried (O. Parsee), 338 Do. and Potatoes (B. Central Provinces), 269 Do. Spiced (H. Bengal), 230 Do. do. (B. Rajputana), 365 Salmon (M. Mysore), 323 Do. Cutlets (O. Parsee), 340 Do. Fried (H. Bengal), 231 Do. Grilled (M. Madras), 309 Do. Steamed (M. Bombay), 254 Do. and Vegetables (Siam), 559 Shrimp Croquettes (M. Bombay), 255 Do. Fritters (Java), 427 Do. Scallops of (Malay), 445 Do. Stewed (Java), 428 Soles (M. Madras), 309 Do. Fried (M. Mysore), 323 Do. Balls of (F. Parsee), 334 Do. Fried (F. Parsee), 333 Soup (S. Africa), 9 Do. Mulligatawny (Ceylon), 287 Do. do. (H. Mysore), 318 Do. Meat and Fish (Malay), 445, 446 Do. Kidney (Siam), 564 Spinach (B. Punjab), 346 Sorrel (B. Bombay), 248 Teal, Fillets of (N.-W. China), 99 Tomatoes, Curried (B. Central Provinces), 27 Trout (M. Central Provinces), 276 Turbot (Siam), 560 Do. (H. Bengal), 231 Do. Balls of (F. Parsee), 334 Turnips (B. Kashmir), 292 Do. (B. Central Provinces), 271 Turtle. Fried (Malay), 446 Veal Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. Stewed (Nepal), 330 Vegetables, Mixed (Java), 430 Do. do. (Malay), 447 Do. Pillau of (Afghanistan), 4 Do. do. (B. Punjab), 344 Do. Stewed (O. Parsee), 333 Do. do. (M. Punjab), 355 Vegetable Marrow (B. Punjab), 346 Venison (Siam), 563 Do. Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. Fried (Nepal), 330 Do. with Green Olives (Malay), 450 Do. Stewed (Nepal), 330 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 373 Do. do. (M. Kashmir), 297 Whiting, Baked (Ceylon), 283 Do. Balls of (O. Parsee), 334 ROASTS, JOINTS, ETC. Beef, Brisket of, Roast (Ireland), 385 Do. Fillet of, Roast (Holland), 212 Do. do. do. (S. France), 161 Do. Flank of, do. (Argentine), 45 Do. Preserved, do. (Madagascar), 441 Do. Sirloin (Hebrew), 203 Do. do. (England), 133 Blackcock, Roast (England), 133 Boar, Roast Wild (Russia), 522 Capercailzie, Roast (Denmark), 116 Capon, Braised (Belgium), 71 Chickens, Baked (Hawaii), 196 Do. Boiled (H. Palestine), 483 Do. Roast (Finland), 143 Do. do, (Asia Minor), 54 Ducks, Baked (Hawaii), 196 Do. Roast (N. China), 104 Ducks, Roast, Canvas-Back (America), 28 Do. do., Wild (N. France), 152 Fowls, Baked (Samoa), 534 Do. Boiled (Argentine), 44 Do. do. (Sweden), 618 Do. Roast (O. Parsee), 341 Do. do. Stuffed (Jamaica), 412 Goose, Baked (Roumania), 511 Goose, Boiled (Finland), 141 Grouse, Roast (Scotland), 543 Ham, Braised (Ireland), 390 Hare, Roast, with Cream (Poland)>496 Do. do. Saddle of (Austria), 61 Howtowdie (Fowl), (Scotland), 541 Lamb, Braised (Algiers), 19 Do. do. (Austria), 60 Do. do. (Persia), 486 690 Roasts, Joints, etc. — continued. INDEX Lamb Head, Dressed (Scotland), 542 Do. Pillau of (Turkestan), 644 Do. Roast (Armenia), 48 Do. do. (Greece), 187 Do. do. (Syria), 609 Mutton, Boiled (Kurdistan), 437 Do. Braised Leg of (Egypt), 123 Do. Roast (Mexico), 457 Do. do. (Thibet), 639 Do. Saddle of (Morocco), 463 Ortolans, Roast (R.H.C.'s), 675 Partridge, Roast (England), 133 Pheasants, Curried (M. Bengal), 242 Do. Roast (England), 133 Pig, Baked (Hawaii), 196 Do. Roast (S. China), 109 Do. do. Sucking (Samoa), 533 Pigeons, Baked (Samoa), 534 Do. Broiled (Morocco), 464 Pigeons, Roast (Turkestan), 647 Plover, Roast (Ireland), 392 Pork, Baked, Breast (N. Germany), 170 Do. Baked, Shoulder of (Sweden), 620 Ptarmigan, Roast (Norway), 474 Sheep, Roast, Stufied (Soudan), 583 Snipe, Roast (Greece), 191 Swan, Roast (England), 132 Turkey, Boiled (Madagascar), 441 Do. do. and Stuffed (America), 26 Do. Roast (Armenia), 49 Do. do. (Egypt), 119 Do. do. (Italy), 402 Veal, Braised (Finland), 142 Do. do. and Dumplings (S. Germany), 180 Do. Roast (Portugal), 506 Venison and Green Olives (Malay), 450 Yak, Stewed (Thibet), 636 GAME. Blackcock, Braised (Siberia), 570 Do. Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Quenelles (Finland), 143 Do. Roast (England). 133 Boar, Roast Wild (Russia), 522 Bustard, Braised (N. Spain), 594 Capercailzie, Roast (Denmark), 116 Deer, Fillet of (Siberia), 569 Duck, Braised (Sicily), 577 Do. Wild Braised (Sicily), 577 Do. Fillet of (Italy), 403 Do. Wild Pressed (N. France), 152 Do. Fillets of Wild (West Indies), 382 Do. Roast Canvas-Back (America), 28 Elk, Curried (Ceylon), 284 Grouse, Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Roast (Scotland), 543 Do. Quenelles (Finland), 143 Grouse, Stewed (S. Spain), 601 Guinea-Fowl, Curried (Siam), 562 Do. do. (M. Punjab), 356 Hare, Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Fillet of (Roumania), 513 Do. with Cream (Poland), 496 Do. Roast Saddle of (Austria), 61 Do. Stewed Curried (Ceylon), 285 Hare, Stewed Curried (M. Madras), 311 Do. do. do. (Nepal), 330 Do. do. (S. Spain), 601 Do. Quenelles (Finland), 143 Lapwings, Braised (Russia), 525 Larks, Braised (Persia), 488 Do. do. (Sicily), 579 Do. and Salad (S. Spain), 602 Ortolans, Roast (R. H. C), 675 Partridges, Braised (Bulgaria), 84 Do. do. (Siberia), 570 Do. Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Roasted (M. Punjab), 356 Do. and Red Cabbage (S. Germany), 1 78 Do. Roast (England), 133 Do. Stewed, Curried (Nepal), 330 Do. Quenelles (Finland), 143 Partridge Stew (S. Spain), 601 Pheasants, Braised (Sicily), 577 Do. Curried (M. Bengal), 242 Do. Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Grilled Fillets of (Korea), 434 Do. Quenelles (Finland), 143 Do. Roast (England), 133 Do. do. (M. Punjab), 356 Do. Stewed (S. Spain), 601 691 INDEX Game — continued. Pheasants, Stewed and Curried (Nepal), 330 Pigeon Breasts, Braised (Persia), 488 Pigeons, Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Curried (M. Mysore), 324 Do. Fried (M. Central Provinces), 278 Do. with Grayfish (Hungary), 224 Do. Quenelles (Finland), 143 Do. Rissoles (Algiers), 19 Do. Stewed, Curried (Nepal), 331 Do. Wild Stewed (S. Spain), 601 Do. Wood (Canary Islands), 89 Plover, Fillets of (Holland), 214 Do. Roast (Ireland), 329 Ptarmigan, Braised (Siberia), 570 Do. Roast (Norway), 474 Do. Zephyrs of (Sweden), 621 Quails, Curried (S. Africa), 13 Do. do. (M. Kashmir), 296 Do. Pillau of (Arabia), 66 Rabbits, Cream of (N. France), 150 Do. Quenelles (Finland). 143 Do. Stewed (S. Spain), 601 Snipe, Roast (Greece), 191 Sparrows, Braised (Persia), 488 Teal, Braised Fillets (China), 99 Do. do. (Sicily), 577 Do. Fillets of (Italy), 403 Do. do. (West Indies), 382 Thrushes in Casserolle (S. France), 162 Venison, Braised (S. Africa). 10 Do. Curried (Siam), 563 Do. do. (M. Kashmir), 297 Do. Boiled, Curried, (Nepal), 329 Do. Fried, Curried (Nepal), 330 Do. Stewed (Norway), 473 Do. do. Curried (Nepal), 330 Do. do. do. (R. Rajputana), 373 Do. and Grapes (Switzerland), 628 Do. and Green Olives (Malay), 450 Do. Grilled (Algiers), 19 Do. Stewed (Afghanistan), 4 Widgeon, Pallets of (West Indies), 382 Do. do. (Italy), 403 Woodceck, Roast (Japan), 421 Yak, Stewed (Thibet), 636 VEGETABLES. Arrowroot, Baked (Samoa), 532 Do. Bread (Hawaii), 5 Artichokes, Curried (H. Madras), 302 Do. Farced (Russia), 524 Do. Jerusalem (Italy), 401 Do. and French Beans (Holland), 215 Artichokes, Stuffed (Turkey), 654 Asparagus (Hebrew), 205 Do. Iced (R. H. C), 675 Bamboo Shoots (N. China), 95 Do. (S. China), no Bamia, Stewed (Armenia), 50 Banana, Green Curry (H. Madras), 323 Do. Green Stewed (Samoa), 532 Do. Ripe Baked (Samoa), 532 Do. Ripe Stewed (Samoa), 532 Bananas, Stuffed (Jamaica), 411 Do. Roasted (Jamaica), 414 Beans, Curried (B. Central Provinces), 270 Do. French, with Cream (Turkey), 657 Do. French, Curried (H. Bengal), 232 Do. Fricasse of, Black (Brazil), 76 Beans, Omelet of, Haricot (Argentine), 44 Do. Stewed with Rice (Mexico), 455 Bean Porridge (Morocco), 462 Beetroot, Buttered (Afghanistan), 4 Do. Curried (M. Central Provinces), 27 Do. Pickled (Afghanistan), 4 Do. Spiced (Afghanistan), 4 BrusselsSproutswith Cucumbers (Holland), 212 Cabbage, Curried (B. Rajputana), 366 Do. Dolmas of (Hungary), 222 Do. Stewed (Siberia), 570 Do. do. (Bulgaria), 84 Da do. Red (S. Germany), 178 Do. Timbales of (Poland), 498 Do. Green, Curried (B. Kashmir), 291 Calecannon (Ireland), 391 Carrots, Curried (B. Bombay), 248 Do. Stuffed (H. Mysore), 317 Cauliflower, Browned (Mexico), 458 Do. Curried (H. Bengal), 232 Do. do. (B. Rajputana), 365 Celery, Stewed (N. Spain), 591 692 Vegetables — continued. INDEX Chestnuts, Puree of (Italy), 403 Chillies, Pounded (Java), 431 Cho-Cho, Stuffed (Jamaica), 411 Croquettes (Turkey), 655 Cutlets, Norman (Vegetarian), 663 Cucumbers, Curried (M. Central Provinces), 277 Cucumber and Crabs (Malay), 449 Do. Farced (Persia), 487 Do. do. (Vegetarian), 665 Do. do. (Asia Minor), 56 Do. do. (Soudan), 585 Do. Pickled (S. Africa), 10 Do. do. (N. China), 93 Do. Sliced (Java), 430 Do. do. (Roumania), 512 Dumplings, Potato (Austria), 62 Do. do. (N. Germany), 171 Do. do. (Holland), 210 Egg Plant (Palestine), 484 Do. Curried (H. Bengal), 233 Do. Fried (Egypt), 120 Do. Pillau (H. Mysore), 316 Do. Stewed (Persia), 486 Do. do. (Japan), 419 Do. do. (N. China), 99 Do. Stuffed (Spudan), 584 Endive, Brussels (S. France), 162 Do. Stewed (Russia), 523 Gram Flour Cakes, Curried (B. Bombay), 249 Hominy Croquettes (America), 28 Horse-radish Pods, Curried (H. Mysore), 317 Indian Corn Cakes (Java), 430 Kidney Bean Leaves (Madagascar), 440 Lady's Fingers (H. Bengal), 232 Do. (M. Mysore), 325 Lentils (H. Bengal), 230 Do. Boiled (Nepal), 329 Do. do. (H. Mysore), 316 Do. do. (B. Bombay), 249 Do. Curried (B. Punjab), 349 Do. do. (B. Central Provinces), 269 Do. Croquettes (H. Bengal), 233 Do. Crusts (B. Central Provinces), 272 Do. Spiced (H. Madras), 302 Do. do. (F. Parsee), 333 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 370 Do. Esau's Pottage (Syria), 611 Do. and Curds (R. Rajputana), 370 Lettuce, Dolmas of (Greece), 189 Do. Stewed (B. Kashmir), 292 Do. do. (Koumania), 512 Lotus Roots (Japan), 418 Maize, Roast (Canary Islands), 89 Manico Leaves (Madagascar), 441 Melon, Baked, Stuffed (Arabia), 35 Mushrooms, Farced (Vegetarian), 665 Do. do. (Turkey), 656 Do. Roast (Burmah), 263 Do. Stewed (Thibet), 37 Do. do. (B. Punjab), 347 Okras Sautes (West Indies), 381 Olives, Stuffed (Greece), 187 Onions, Farced (Holland), 213 Parsnips, Buttered (Afghanistan), 5 Do. Creamed (Afghanistan), 5 Do. Stewed (S. Africa), 1 1 Peas a la Bourgoise (Vegeterian), 664 Do. and Cream (N. France), 154 Do. Curried (B. Kashmir), 292 Do. do. (B. Central Provinces), 272 Do. Fried, Green (Pods), (Siam), 559 Potato Balls (Hebrew), 203 Do. do. (Norway), 473 Do. Cream (Vegetarian), 664 Potatoes, Curried (B. Rajputana), 365 Do. do. (Ceylon), 287 Do. do. (H. Madras), 304 Do. do. (B. Bombay), 248 Do, Dumplings (Austria), 62 Do. do. (N. Germany), 171 Do. do. (Holland), 210 Do. P'ritters (Hebrew), 204 Do. Fried (M. Punjab), 354 Do. Pancakes (N. Germany), 170 Do. Pyramids (R. H. C), 675 Do. Pudding (Hawaii), 198 Do. Souffle (Belgium), 71 Do. Saute (Vegetarian), 666 Do. Stuffed (B. Punjab), 345 Do. Sweet (S. Africa), r4 Do. do. Baked (America), 28 Do. and Rice (B. Central Provinces), 269 Pumpkins, Curried (Ceylon), 286 Do. Leaves, Stewed (Madagascar), 440 Do. and Tomatoes (West Indies), Rice, Boiled (Afghanistan), 3 380 693 INDEX Vegetables— continued. Rice, Boiled (B. Bombay), 249 Do. do. (N. China), 104 Do. do. (Egypt), 126 Do. do. (Nepal), 329 Do. do. (B. Punjab), 349 Do. do. (Burmah), 262 Do. do. (R. Central Provinces), 269 Do. do. (Kurdistan), 437 Do. do. (H. Mysore), 316 Do. do. (Madagascar), 440 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 370 Do. do. (Syria), 608 Do. Fried (F. Parsee), 333 Do. and Milk (Madagascar), 440 Do. and Potatoes (B. Central Provinces), 269 Do. and Pumpkins (Madagascar), 440 Do. Savoury (Portugal), 503 Do. Spiced (H. Bengal), 230 Do. do. (B. Rajputana), 365 Do. and Curd, Curried (B. Punjab), 348 Rissoles a la Horly (Vegetarian), 662 Salsify, Scalloped (Hungary), 223 Sea-kale (Sweden), 622 Seaweed, Dolmas of (Japan), 417 Semolina (Keskoo) (Morocco), 465 Spinach (B. Punjab), 346 Do. (Finland), 142 Sorrel, Curried (B. Bombay), 248 Sorrel in Cream (S. France), 160 Taro Leaf, Baked (Samoa) S3 2 Do. Stewed (Hawaii), 198 Taro Root, Baked (Samoa), 532 Tomatoes, Curried (B. Central Provinces), 270 Do. Stuffed (N. Spain), 591 Do. do. (Soudan), 584 Do. Indian Corn and (Mexico), 457 Turnips, Curried (B. Kashmir), 292 Do. do. (B. Central Provinces), 271 Do. Mashed (B. Central Provinces), 271 Do. Stuffed (Belgium), 70 Vegetable Croquettes (Turkey), 655 Do. Curried (Malay), 447 Do. do. (M. Punjab), 355 Do. do. (Java), 430 Do. do. (O. Parsee), 340 Do. Mixed (Arabia), 36 Do. Pillau of (Aghanistan), 4 Do. do. (B. Punjab), 344 Do. Stewed (Egypt), 122 Do. do. (Greece), 190 Do. do. (F. PaTsee), 333 Do. Marrow, Curried (B. Punjab), 346 Do. do. Stuffed (Syria), 605 Do. in Aspic (Vegetarian), 668 White Fillets (Vegetarian), 662 SAUCES. Salt— Almond (England), 134 Do. (Holland), 210 Almond (Roumania), 516 Apple and Gooseberry (Servia), 554 Do. Horse-radish (N. Germany), Apricot (S. Africa), 13 Aspic (Vegetarian), 669 Balkan (Bulgaria), 82 Bechamel (Sweden), 621 Blatjang (S. Africa), 12 Bread (Scotland), 550 Brown (N. China), 101 Do. (N. Germany), 171 Do. (Denmark), 114 Do. (Russia), 521 Do. (R.H.C.'s), 88 168 Catalan (N. Spain), 590 Chaufroid, Green (S. Germany), 178 Do. White (S. Germany), 178 Chillies, Pounded (Java), 431 Cocoanut, Grated (Java), 431 Do. do. (Hawaii), 197 Crayfish (Switzerland), 628 Cucumber (Roumania), 513 Cullis or Essence of Crayfish (Hungary), 225 Do. Green (Belgium), 71 Do. of Ham (Belgium), 69 Do. Italian (Italy), 401 Do. of Lobster (Hungary), 225 Do. Partridge (Bulgaria), 85 Do. Stock (Poland), 494 Do. White (Sweden), 619 Devil (Ireland), 396 694 Sauces (Salt and Sweet) — continued. INDEX Dutch (Holland), 213 Egg (Holland), 211 Financier (R.H.C.'s), 673 Do. Brown (Roumania), 511 Fish (N. China), 96 Do. (N. China), 108 Do. (Hebrew), 203 Flemish (Belgium), 68 Game (Ireland), 392 Do. Sweet (Roumania), 513 Do. do. (S. Africa), 13 Do. do. and Sour (England), 131 Glaze (Roumania), 514 Hollandaise (Denmark), 113 Horse-radish (Hebrew), 203 Do. (Austria), 61 Do. (Arabia), 36 Do. (Japan), 416 Howtowdie (Scotland), 541 Kaihelo (Hawaii), 197 King's (Norway), 475 Lemon (Greece), 190 Lobster (Sweden), 617 Do. (Norway), 190 Do. (Switzerland), 628 Madeira (Italy), 399 Do. (Jamaica), 411 Maitre d'Hotel Butter (R.H.C.'s), 674 Mayonnaise (Hebrew), 203 Mince (Jamaica), 412 Miti (Samoa), 533 Mussel (Scotland), 540 Mustard (Ireland), 386 Namphrik (Siam), 557 National (Sicily), 574 Onion, Brown (Norway), 472 Do. (S. Spain), 600 Orange (W. Indies), 382 Oyster (Sweden), 616 Do. (N. Germany), 169 Palermo (Sicily), 575 Parsley (Vegetarian), 663 Piquante (America), 29 Poivrade (Siam), 563 Port Wine (Italy), 403 Do. do. (N. France), 153 Rich Fish (N. Itance), 150 Do. do. (W rdies), 379 Rich Fish Financier (R.H.C.'s), 673 Robin (Norway), 474 Shallot and Parsley (Ireland), 388 Sharp (Poland), 489 Do. Cold (Portugal), 505 Do. White (Sweden), 620 Shrimp (England), 130 Do. (Switzerland), 628 Spanish (N. Spain), 592 Do. Another Way (N. Spain), 594 Sicilian (Sicily), 574 Sour Sweet (Greece), 186 Soy (Japan), 424 Supreme (Holland), 214 Swan (England), 132 Sweet (N. Germany), 171 Sweet, Sour (F. Parsee), 335 Tartar (Russia), 526 Tomato (Mexico), 455 Do. (Switzerland), 631 Do. (Vegetarian), 662 Truffle (Holland), 215 Vegetable and Herb Essence (S. Spain), 602 Veloute (N. France), 150 Viking (Norway), 474 Vinaigrette (Turkey), 652 White (N. China), 101 Do. (Brazil), 76 Do. (Argentine), 42 Do. (Sweden), 616 Do. Sharp (Sweden), 620 Wine, Red (Sicily), 577 Sweet — Almond (Roumania), 516 Apple (Jamaica), 413 Apricot and Rum (Holland), 217 Do. (S. Africa), 13 Brandy (England), 136 Carageen (Ireland), 393 Caramel (Portugal), 508 Cherry (Vegetarian), 666 Cocoanut Milk (Malay), 449 Cranberry (America), 27 Do. (Jamaica), 413 Currant, Black (Jamaica), 413 Do. Red (Jamaica), 413 Custard (N. Germany), 173 Fruit (Jamaica), 413 6 95 INDEX Sauces (Sweet) — continued. Guava (Jamaica), 413 King's (Norway), 47s Lemon Cream, Hot (N. Spain), 597 Do. Do. Cold (N. Spain), 597 Lili (Russia), 527 Maple Syrup (Malay), 450 Marischino (Hungary), 227 Orange Cream, Hot (N. Spain), 596 Do. Cold (N. Spain), 596 Punch (S. Spain), 603 Rita (Roumania), 517 Roleen (Sweden), 623 Rum(R.H.C.'S), 676 Do. Cold (Servia), 555 Spanish (N. Spain), 592 Strawberry (Finland), 145 Sultan (Turkey), 659 Tyrolean (Switzerland), 632 Do. Cream (Switzerland), Vanilla (Hungary), 226 Do. (Austria), 63 Wine (Sweden), 623 632 SWEETS, PUDDINGS, ETC. Almond Cakes (Egypt Do. 112 do. (Algiers), 21 Tart (S. Germany), 181 do. (Poland), 500 do. (Soudan), 586 Paste (Poland), 500 Pastry (Asia Minor), 57 Angel's Dream (Portugal), 507 Do. Food (Jamaica), 412 Do. Hair (Argentine), 46 Do. do. (S. Spain), 603 Apples Baked (B. Central Provinces), 273 Do. Tart (Belgium), 72 do. (Germany), 172 Dumplings (Scotland), 544 Compote of (Armenia), 49 and Cocoanut (M. Punjab), 359 Stewed (Kurdistan), 438 Apple Timbales (Italy), 406 Apricot Cups (America), 30 Do. Rice Cream (S Africa), 16 Apricots, Stewed (Kurdistan), 438 Do. do. (Syria), 609 Do. and Cocoanut Baked (M. Punjab), 359 Arrowroot, Blanc Mange (Hawaii), 198 Babaau Rum (R.H.C.'S), 676 Banana Fritters (Brazil), 78 Do. do. (Siam), 565 Do. do. (West Indies), 383 Do. Roasted (Jamaica) 4I4 Do. and Cocoanut (M. Punjab), 359 Bean, Curd Dumplings (N. China), 100 Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. Do. 696 Blanc Mange (Finland), 145 Do. do. Arrowroot, (Hawaii), 198 Do. do. (Soudan), 585 Bread Fritters (N. Spain), 596 Do. do. (Portugal), 506 Cake, Almond (Sicily), 580 Do. Brown Bread (Poland), 499 Do. Bean (Japan), 423 Do. Cinnamon (Austria) 62 Do. Cocoanut (Ceylon), 288 Do. Honey and Almond (M. Bengal), 243 Do. do. (Ceylon), 289 Do. do. (Persia), 489 Do. Mochi (Japan), 422 Do. Peacock (Roumania), 515 Do. Rice (Korea), 435 Do. do. (Japan), 422 Do. Fruit (S. Germany), 182 Do. Saffron (M. Kashmir), 298 Do. Sweet (B. Rajputana), 375 Do. do. (Siam), 565 Do. Walnut (Brazil), 79 Carageen Moulds (Ireland), 393 Caramel Cream (Portugal), 508 Cheese Cakes (Mexico), 459 Do. Sweet (B. Kashmir), 293 Cherries and Cocoanut, Baked (M. Punjab), 359 Cinnamon Balls (M. Central Provinces), 280 Cocoanut and Taro Pudding (Hawaii), 198 Do. and Rice Croquettes (Siam), 565 Do. Croquettes (R. Rajputana), 374 Do. do. (B. Cent. Provinces), 273 Sweets, Puddings, etc. — continued. INDEX Cocoanut Custard (Siam), 566 Cream, Bavarian (Vegetarian), 667 Do. Other ways (Vegetarian), 668 Do. Caramel (Portugal), 508 Do. Croquettes (M. Bengal), 242 Do. Brunt (Scotland), 545 Do. Biscuits (N. Spain), 595 Do. Flawn (Russia), 528 Do. and Pancakes (M. Bombay), 258 Do. Pistachios (Turkey), 659 Do. Ratafias (Sicily), 580 Do. Whipped with Eggs (Turkestan), 649 Croquettes, Cocoanut (R. Rajputana), 374 Currant, Red Shape (Denmark), 116 Custard and Jelly (N. China), 10 Do. with Almonds (F. Parsee), 335 Do. (Argentine), 45 Do. and Pumpkin (Siam), 564 Do. Sponge (N. China), 95 Do. Wine (Italy), 405 Dates, Stewed (Algeria), 20 Do. Stuffed with Cream (Arabia), 39 Dough-nuts (N. China), 98 Do. (S. China), m Dumplings, Apple (Scotland), 544 Do. Curd (Siberia), 569 Do. do. Bean (N. China), 100 Do. Sweet (S. Africa), 15 Do. do. (Sweden), 615 Eggs, Sweet (M. Bengal), 242 Figs, Stuffed (Arabia), 38 Do. do. (Algeria), 20 Fritters, Golden (Switzerland), 631 Fruits, Bowl (France), 163 Furmenty (Roumania), 515 Golden Hair (Siam), 566 Gooseberry Fool (Norway), 475 Grape Paste (Syria), 612 Guava Salad (S. Africa), 15 Hattit Kit (Scotland), 545 Junket (England), 136 Kildare Puffs (Ireland), 394 King's Cake (Austria), 63 Love Knots (Poland), 449 Macaroni Sweet (B. Bombay), 250 Do. do. (M. Mysore), 326 Macaroons (S. Africa), 15 Macedoine of Jelly (Egypt), 124 697 Mango Fool (B. Punjab), 351 Melon Stewed (Canary Islands), 90 Meringues (Vegetarian), 668 Milk and Almond Cream (Argentine), 45 Do. Balls (H. Bengal), 235 Do. Curdled (Finland), 146 Do. do. (Kurdistan), 438 Do. and Fruit (M. Punjab), 261 Do. Curd and Fruit (B. Bombay), 249 Do. Croquettes (B. Punjab), 351 Do. Spiced (B. Bombiy), 250 Do. Sweet (R. Rajputana), 375 Omelettes Little (Malay), 451 Do. Sweet (Servia), 555 Orange Fritters (West Indies), 383 Panada (Finland), 144 Pancakes (F. Parsee), 335 Do. Cocoanut (H. Madras), 306 Do. and Cream (M. Bombay), 258 Do. (Sweden), 623 Do. Glazed (Sicily), 597 Do. with Syrup (Turkestan), 648 Pastry, with Honey (Armenia), 48 Do. do. andAlmonds(Soudan),585 Do. with Syrup (Turkey), 657 Do. Sweet (Egypt), 121 Do. do. (Syria), 612 Peaches, Macedoine of (Greece), 192 Do. Stewed (Asia Minor), 55 Pears, Baked (M. Madras), 313 Do. and Cocoanut, Baked (M. Punjab), 359 Pikelets (Morocco), 468 Pine-apple Preserve (Parsee), 342 Pistachio Cream (Turkey), 659 Do. Pastry (B. Punjab), 349 Plantain Fritters (West Indies), 383 Plums, Stewed (Finland), 146 Do. and Cocoanut, Baked (M. Punjab), 359 Prophet's Cakes (N. Germany), 172 Prunes, Stewed (Palestine), 483 Pudding, Alma (Sweden), 622 Do. Almond (H. Madras), 306 Do. do. (Palestine), 482 Do. Arrowroot (Afghanistan), 7 Do. Cocoanut and Taro (Hawaii), 198 Do. Baked Custard (Sweden), 614 Do. Custard, Steamed (Sweden), 614 Do. do. and Jelly (N. China), 103 INDEX Sweets, Puddings, etc. — continued. Pudding, Gram (R. Rajputana), 374 Do. Guava (Jamaica), 413 Do. Helene (Vegetarian), 666 Do. Honey (Switzerland), 632 Do. Imperial (M. Madras), 312 Do. Kerry (Ireland), 392 Do. Milk (B. Kashmir), 293 Do. do. (M. Bengal), 235 Do. Motza (Hebrew), 206 Do. Nut (Korea), 436 Do. Plum (England), 135 Do. Potato (Mexico), 458 Do. do. (Hawaii), 198 Do. Rajah (M. Central Provinces), 281 Do. Rice (Egypt), 125 Do. do. (Thibet), 636 Do. do. (Armenia), 51 Do. Sago (Malay), 450 Do. Saffron (Persia), 489 Do. Seder (Hebrew), 206 Do. Semolina (Algeria), 20 Do. Steamed (Holland), 216 Do. do. (Roumania), 516 Do. Strawberry (America), 30 Do. Vermicelli (Sicily), 579 Do. do. (M. Bombay), 258 Do. Wheat Flour (O. Parsee), 341 Do. do. (H. Mysore), 319 Puddings in Skins (Scotland), 544 Puffs, Kildare (Ireland), 394 Pumpkin and Custard (Siam), 564 Do. Pie (America), 29 Pumpkins, Preserved (F. Parsee), 335 Quenelles, Sweet (Italy), 404 Do. Cream (Hungary), 226 Do. Sultan (Turkey), 658 Quinces, Stewed (Armenia), 50 Raisins Stewed (Armenia), 52 Rice Cakes (Korea), 435 Do. Dumplings (S. Africa), 13 Do. and Curds (H. Mysore), 318 Do. do. (H. Madras), 305 Do. do. (B. Bombay), 252 Do. and Fruit (B. Rajputana), 366 Do. and Honey (Madagascar), 440 Rice and Milk (Arabia), 39 Do. do. (Madagascar), 440 Do. do. (Soudan), 585 Do. do. Sweet (M. Kashmir), 279 Do. Pilau of (B. Punjab), 350 Do. and Nuts (B. Punjab), 352 Do. Sugared (M. Central Provinces), 280 Do. Sweet (B. Bombay), 249 Do. do. (M. Punjab), 360 Do. do. (M. Mysore), 326 Do. do. (Portugal), 506 Do. do. (Madagascar), 440 Saffron Cakes (M. Kashmir), 298 Do. Toast (M. Madras), 313 Semolina Biscuits (H. Madras), 306 Do. Sweet (Morocco), 466 Sponge Custard (N. China), 95 Do. Fritters (Morocco), 467 Sugar Crusts (H. Mysore), 320 Do. Balls (B. Rajputana), 367 Do. do. Spiced (M. Punjab), 360 Do. Cream (B. Central Provinces), 274 Sweet Balls (M. Bombay), 259 Do. do. (H. Mysore), 319 Sweets (Phirni) (M. Punjab), 361 Do. Another way (B. Punjab), 352 Do. Milk (B. Rajputana) 368 Talli, Kadaif (Turkey), 657 Tart, Almond (Canary Islands), 90 Do. do. (Poland), 500 Do. do. (S. Germany), 181 Do. Apple (N. Germany), 172 Tartlets (S. Spain), 603 Do. (S. China), III Do. Cream (Hungary), 226 Do. Honey (Algeria), 21 Do. do. Cheese (Mexico), 459 Taro Leaves, Stewed (Hawaii), 198 Do. Root Bread (Hawaii), 199 Tart, Cocoanut (S. Africa), 14 Vegetable Marrow, Sweet (M. Mysore), 327 Vermicelli, Sweet (B. Rajputana), 366 Wheaten Cakes, Sweet (H. Bengal), 235 Wine, Cream (Russia), 528 Wine, Custard (Italy), 405 698 OMELETTES, PANCAKES, AND SOUFFLES. INDEX Omelettes, Salt — Asparagus (S. Spain), 600 Green Peas (S. Spain), 600 Haricot Beans (Argentine), 44 Ham (S. Spain), 600 Herbs, Fine (Vegetarian), 664 Kidney (S. Spain), 600 Mushrooms (S. Spain), 600 Oyster (America), 24 Potato (S. Spain), 600 Savoury (Vegetarian), 664 Do. (Arabia), 36 Tomato (S. Spain), 600 Omelettes, Sweet — Apricot (Jamaica), 414 Currant Jam (Jamaica), 414 Little (Malay), 451 Raspberry Jam (Jamaica), 414 Rum (Jamaica), 413 Strawberry Jam (Jamaica), 414 Sweet (Bulgaria), 85 Do. (Servia), 555 Do. (Malay), 451 Pancakes, Sweet — Plain (Parsee), 335 Do. (Sweden), 66 Cocoanut (Madras), 306 Glazed (Sicily), 579 Cream with (Bombay), 258 Syrup with (Turkestan), 648 Pancakes, Salt — Potato (N. Germany), 170 Savoury (Russia), 524 Souffles — Almond (Russia), 527 Chestnut (France), 154 Lemon (Russia), 527 Peach (N. France), 154 Pine-apple (Russia), 527 Do. (N. France), 154 Raspberry (Russia), 527 Strawberry (N. France), 154 Do. (Russia), 527 Vanilla (Russia), 527 SALADS. Anchovy (Siam), 559 Apple and Celery (Hebrew), 202 Brawn (Siam), 558 Bread (S. Spain), 602 Celeriac (N. Germany), 169 Chicken (S. China), 109 Do. Truffles etc. (Italy), 404 Crab (Jamaica), 409 Do. (Japan), 421 Cremona Compote (Italy), 402 Cress (Ireland), 392 Cucumber (Finland), 145 Do. (Java), 430 Do. and Radish (A. Palastine), 497 Fresh (Siam), 557 Guava (S. France), 162 Herb (Japan), 421 Herbs, Mixed (S. France), 162 Lettuce, Cucumber and Radish (A. Palastine,) 479 Do. Onion and Tomatoes (O. Parsee), 339 Do. and Pepper (H. Palestine), 483 Mixed (Holland), 217 Do. (Hungary), 226 Do. (Sweden), 622 Do. (Portugal), 508 Do. (Russia), 526 Do. (N. Spain), 595 Do. (Siam), 558 Namphrik (Siam), 557 Orange (N. France), 154 Plain (Korea), 434 Do. (R.H.C.'s), 675 Potato (Malay), 444 Do. (S. Germany), 177 Rose Blooms (Turkey), 657 Savoy, Cabbage (Siam), 557 Sharp (Egypt), 122 Sydney Smith (England), 134 Tomatoes and Cucumber (H. Palestine), 483 Turnip and Carrot (Italy), 404 Vegetable (Belgium), 67 Do. Mixed (Siam), 558 Viking (Norway), 474 6 99 INDEX APPETISERS, SAVOURIES, ETC. Angels Dreams (Portugal), 507 Appetisers (Russia), 519 Do. (Canary Islands), 87 Aspic Bouchees (Vegetarian), 668 Bananas, Roasted (Jamaica), 414 Beef, Cold Rolled (Argentine), 41 Do Preserved (Madagascar), 441 Biltong (S. Africa), 9 Bones, Devilled (Ireland), 396 Boxty (Ireland), 388 Brawn (Siam), 558 Do. European (Siam), 559 Breadcrumbs (Scotland), 544 Brunswick Sausages and Tomatoes (N. Germany), 165 Cheese (Canary Islands), 90 Do. Pastry (Siberia), 570 Do. Polenta (Roumania), 515 Do. Pudding, Baked (Sweden), 614 Do. do. Steamed (Sweden), 622 Do. Savoury (Egypt), 119 Do. Tortillas (Mexico), 452 Do. and Rice (Arabia), 36 Chicken Livers (N.-W. China), 93 Crabs, Boiled (S.-E. China), 110 Crab Salad (Jamaica), 409 Do. Savoury (America), 29 Crappit Heids (Scotland), 546 Cod's Roe, Scallops of (Sweden), 614 Cocoanut, Fried, (Java), 431 Crotons (Palestine), 483 Cucumbers, Farced (Vegetarian), 665 Do. do. (Persia), 487 Do. do. (Soudan), 585 Do. Pickled (N. China), 93 Dumplings (Sweden), 615 Do. Two ways (Thibet), 641 Do. Floating (N. Germany), 167 Do. Liver (Austria), 59 Do. do. (S. Germany), 181 Do. Meat (Greece), 188 Do. do. (Siberia), 569 Do. Potato (Switzerland), 630 Do. do. (N. Germany), 171 Do. do. Fried (Ireland), 388 Do. do. (Ireland), 389 Do. Suet (Ireland), 390 Eggs, Boiled (N. Spain), 588 Do. Fried (F. Parsee), 333 Eggs in Aspic (N. China), 93 Do. Buttered (Scotland), 542 Do. Sailed Duck's (Java), 426 Do. Stuffed (Asia Minor), 55 Do. Roast Duck's (Burmah), 264 Do. and Rice (Mexico), 454 Esau's Pottage (Syria), 61 r Fish Brains (Malay). 444 Do. Roes (Java), 427 Grece Savoury (R.H.C.'S), 677 Hen, A Fitless (Scotland), 536 Ham, Pickled and Dried (Ireland), 391 Hominy Croquettes (America), 28 Indian Corn Cakes (Java), 430 Liver Quenelles (Belgium), 66 Macaroni (Italy), 400 Mushrooms au Gratin (Turkey), 656 Do. Stuffed (Vegetarian), 665 Olives and Cheese (S. Spain), 599 Do. and Chestnuts (Greece), 187 Oyster, Baked (Hawaii), 198 Partan Pie (Scotland), 546 Potato Pancakes (N. Germany), 170 Do. Quenelles (Holland), 210 Do. Salad (Malay), 444 Pudding, Savoury (Sweden), 622 Rarebit (Switzerland), 629 Rarebit, Welsh (Switzerland), 629 Rice, Pilaf of (Egypt), 125 Do. Pillau of (Kurdistan), 437 Do. Savoury (Asia Minor), 57 Do. do. (Portugal), 503 Do. do. Pudding (Turkestan), 645 Do. Timbales (Armenia), 50 Rissoles a la Horly (Vegetarian), 662 Roe, Scallops of, Cod's (Sweden), 614 Salmon, Raw (Hawaii), 197 Sausages, Meat Smoked (N. Germany), 165 Do. Brunswick, and Tomatoes (N. Germany), 165 Shrimp Balls (S. China), 108 Do. Scalloped (Malay), 445 Do. Mayonnaise of (N. China), 93 Tongue, Cold (Argentine), 41 Vegetables in Aspic (Vegetarian), 668 Do. Croquettes (Turkey), 655 Vermicelli Pudding (Sicily), 579 Yorkshire Pudding (England), 133 700 ICES. INDEX Apricot Cream (N. Germany), 174 Do. Rice (S. Africa), 16 Auld Man's Milk (Scotland), 547 Bilberry Cream (Sweden). 624 Do. (Russia), 529 Chocolate (N. Germany), 174 Cocoanut (Jamaica), 414 Coffee (N. Germany), 174 Cranberry Cream (Russia), 529 Do. (Sweden), 624 Currant, Red (Norway), 475 Kirsch (S. Germany), 182 Lemon Cream (N. Germany), 174 Maraschino (S. Germany), 182 Neapolitan (Italy), 406 Orange Blossom (Greece), 194 Do. Cream (N. Germany), 184 Do. do. (Vegetarian), 670 Do. Punch (America). 27 Peach Cream (America), 31 Do. do. (N. Germany), 174 Do. Water (Belgium), 72 Pear Cream (Holland), 217 Do. Puree (Holland), 218 Pine-apple Cream (N. Germany), 174 Pistachio (N. Germany), 174 Prince Pickler (N. Germany), 174 Raspberry Cream (N. Germany), 174 Do. (Denmark), 117 Ratafia (N. Germany), 174 Rum Cream (N. Spain), 579 Sorbet (N. France), 151 Strawberry Cream (Denmark), 117 Do. (N Germany), 174 Tokay (Hungary), 227 Truffle (N. France), 156 Do. (Poland), 501 Do. Cream (Poland), 501 CREAM, MILK, ETC. Asses' Milk, Fermented (Turkestan), 644 Camels' do. do. (Turkestan), 644 Cocoanut Milk (Malay), 449 Do. do. (Ceylon), 288 Cows' Milk, Fermented (Turkestan), 644 Cream Brunt (Scotland), 545 Cream Croquettes (M. Bengal), 242 Do. Curd (Turkey), 658 Do. Spiced (B Bombay), 250 Do. Sugared (B. Central Provinces), 274 Do. Wine (Russia), 528 Croudie (Scotland), 547 Dhai, Milk Curd Sour (Nepal), 331 Do. do. do. Sweet (Nepal), 331 Hattit Kit (Scotland), 545 Junket (England), 136 Koumiss (Turkestan), 644 Kymaic (Turkey), 658 Leban, Curds (Syria), 606 Mare's Milk, Fermented (Turkestan), 644 Milk Balls (H. Bengal), 235 Milk Curd (H. Mysore), 318 Do. do. (M. Bengal), 243 Do. do. (H. Madras), 305 Do. do. (Nepal), 331 Do. do. (Kurdistan), 438 Do. do. (A. Palestine), 479 Do. do. and Fruit (M. Punjab), 361 ' Do. do. do. do. (B. Bombay), 249 Do. do. Rice Curried (B. Punjab), 348 Do. Curdled (Asia Minor), 56 Do. do. (Syria), 606 Do. do. (Finland), 146 Do. Croquettes (B. Punjab), 351 Do. Sour (Thibet), 641 Do. Spiced (B. Bombay), 250 Do. Sweetened (H. Bengal), 235 Do. do. (R. Rajputana), 375 Do. and Rice (H. Madras), 302 Do. do. do. (H. Mysore), 316 Do. do. do. (B. Bombay), 249 Do. do. do. (Madagascar), 440 701 INDEX BREAD, CAKES, PASTRY, ETC. Bannock, Selkirk (Ireland), 396 Barnbreak (Ireland), 395 Bread Black (Russia), 529 Do. Brown, unleavened (Afghanistan), 2 Do. do. leavened (Afghanistan), 2 Do. Currant Loaf (Scotland), 550 Do. French (S. France), 158 Do. Fruit (Samoa), 534 Do. Household (Scotland), 549 Do. Milk Bread (Scotland), 550 Do. Pan Loaf (Scotland), 550 Do. Pulled (M. Bombay), 255 Do. do. soft (A. Palestine), 478 Do. Rye, leavened (S. Germany), 183 Do. do. unleavened (S. Germany), 183 Do. do. leavened (Sweden), 624 Do. do. sour (Norway), 475 Do. Taro Root (Hawaii), 199 Do. Wheaten Flour, Parantha (B. Rajptu- ana), 364 Do. Wheaten Flower, Puri (B. Punjab), 344 Do. do. do. (Persia), 486 Do. do. Meal, Phulka (B. Rajputana), 37o Do. Wheaten Meal, Poori (R. Rajputana), 370 Do. Wheaten Meal, Pulka (B. Punjab), 347 Do. do. do. (H. Bengal), 235 Do. White (Ireland), 294 Do. do. (France), 158 Cakes — Cake Almond (Egypt), 122 Do. do. (Canary Islands), 90 Do. do. (Algiers), 21 Do. Bean (Japan), 423 Do. do. (Mixico), 456 Do. Brown Bread (Poland), 499 Do. Chestnut (Brazil), 79 Do. Cinnamon (Austria), 62 Do. Cocoanut (Ceylon), 288 Do. Honey (Ceylon), 288 Do. do. (Persia), 489 Do. King's (Austria), 63 Do. Madeira (Belgium), 73 Do. Mochi (Japan), 422 Do. Peacock (Roumania), 515 Cake, Plum (Belgium), 73 Do. Prophet's (N. Germany), 172 Do. Rice (Korea), 435 Do. do. (Japan), 422 Do. Rich (Belgium), 73 Do. do. Fruit, Brown (S. Germany) 182 Do. Saffron (M. Kashmir), 298 Do. Sponge (N. China), 65 Do. do. (Hebrew), 207 Do. Sultana (Belgium), 73 Do. Sweet (R. Rajputana), 375 Do. do. (Siam), 565 Do. Rye (Sweden), 625 Do. Oat Meal Girdle (Scotland), 549 Do. Another way (Scotland), 549 Do. do. (Scotland), 549 Do. Walnut (Brazil), 79 Do. Wheaten (Japan), 423 Paste, Almond (Poland), 500 Do. Coulibiac (Russia), 520 Do. Grape (Syria), 612 Do. Noulle (Sicily), 576 Do. Panada (Finland), 144 Do. Puff (Ireland), 395 Do. Rich, Crust (N. Germany), 173 Do. Rough Puff (Greece), 189 Do. Royal (Poland), 500 Pastry with Honey and Almonds (Soudan), 1 Do. do. (Armenia), 48 Do. Pistachio (B. Punjab), 349 Do. with Syrup (Turkey), 657 Do. Sweet (Egypt), 121 Do. do. (Syria), 612 Picklets (Morocco), 468 Pitcaithly Bannocks (Scotland), 548 Porridge, Wheat (A Palestine), 478 Puffs, Kildare (Ireland), 394 Puff Paste Strings (Turkey), 657 Rolls, French (S. France), 158 Do. Vienna (Hungary), 228 Scones, Girdle (Scotland), 548 Do. Wheat Meal (M. Kashmir), 296 Selkirk Bannocks (Ireland), 396 Shortbread (Scotland), 547 Sponge Fritters (Morocco) 467 Tortillas (Mexico), 456 702 INDEX PRESERVES, FRUITS, CONFECTIONS, ETC. Almond, Sweet (Palestine), 482 Do. and Raisin, Sweet (M. Central Provinces), 281 Apple Cheese (B. Kashmir), 294 Do. Jam (B. Kashmir), 294 Do. Jelly (B. Kashmir), 294 Do. Preserve (B. Rajputana), 368 Apples, Stewed (Armenia), 49 Do. do. (Kurdistan), 438 Apricots (Kurdistan), 438 Do. (Syria), 609 Jjjricot Marmalade (B. Bombay), 251 Snamon, Sweet (B. Central Provinces), 274 ocoanut Honey (Ceylon), 289 Uirrant, Black, Jam (England), 138 Do. do. Jelly (England), 137 Do. Red do. (England), 137 Do. White do. (England), 137 Damsons (R. Rajputana), 376 Fljgs (B. Rajputana), 367 Guava Cheese (M. Bombay), 259 Do. Jelly (M. Bombay), 259 Grape Paste (Syria), 612 Grapes. Preserved (M. Kashmir), 299 Icing, Sugar (Brazil), 79 Jam, Apple (B. Kashmir), 294 Do. Currant, Black (England), 138 Do. Quince (M. Kashmir), 300 Do. Raspberry (Scotland), 546 Do. Strawberry (Scotland), 5461 Jelly, Apple (B. Kashmir), 294 Do. Currant, Black (England), 137 Do. do. Red (England), 137 Do. do. White (England), 137 Do. Guava (M. Bombay), 259 Do. Mango (B. Bombay), 251 Marmalade, Apricot (B. Bombay), 251 Do. Orange (B. Kashmir), 294 Do. Plum (B. Bombay), 252 Mangos, Stewed (Burmah), 266 Mango Cheese (B. Bombay), 251 JMarzipan (Sicily), 580 iMelon Seeds (Rajputana), 377 IS Do. Stewed (Canary Islands), 90 iMeringues (Vegetarian), 368 Milk Sweets (B. Rajputana), 368 Mulberries (M. Kashmir), 299 Orange Marmalade (B. Kashmir), 294 Do. Preserve (B. Rajputana), 368 Oranges Preserved (Afghanistan), 6 Do. with Cocoanut (Jamaica), 412 Peaches (R. Rajputana), 376 Do. (Asia Minor), 55 Pea Sweets (Palestine), 479 Pickled Fruits (Burmah), 265 Pine-apple Sweets (B. Punjab), 352 Do. Preserve (F. Parsee), 342 Pistachio, etc., Tablet (H. Madias), 307 Plum Marmalade (B. Bombay), 252 Plums, Stewed (Burmah), 267 Do. do. (Finland), 146 Pumpkin, Preserve (F. Parsee), 335 Quinces, Preserved (M. Kashmir), 299 Do. Jam (M. Kashmir), 300 Do. Stewed (Armenia), 50 Raisins, Preserved (Armenia), 52 Raspberry Jam (Scotland), 546 Rice, Sweet (M. Punjab), 360 Do. do. (B. Punjab), 350 Rice and Nut Sweets (B. Punjab), 352 Rhubarb, Preserved (B Rajputana), 367 Strawberry Jam (Scotland), 546 Tablet, Almond (R. Rajputana), 377 Do. do. and Pistachio (H. Madras), 307 Do. do. and Raisin (M. Central Pro- vinces, 281 Do. Cinnamon (B. Central Provinces,) 274 Do. Lemon (H. Mysore), 320 Do. Orange (M. Punjab), 362 Do. Nut and Fruit (M. Madras), 307 Do. Pine-apple (B. Punjab), 352 Do. Rice and Fruits (B. Rajputana), 366 Do. do. (B. Punjab), 352 Do. Rose, (B. Punjab), 351 Do. do. (H. Madras), 307 Do. Vanilla (H. Mysore), 321 Do. do. (M. Punjab), 362 Do. Walnut (M. Madras), 314 Do. Wheat, Milk (M. Bengal), 243 Do. do. do. Spiced (M. Bombay), 260 Turkish Delight (B. Punjab), 344 Do. do. (Greece), 193 Vegetable Marrow, Sweet (M. Mysore), 327 7°3 INDEX CONDIMENTS, PICKLES, ETC. Chutneys — Bean (B. Bombay), 246 Chili (Java), 431 Cocoanut (Ceylon), 283 Do. (Java), 431 Do. (B. Bombay), 246 Cucumber (Java), 430 Do. (H. Mysore), 317 Egg Plant (H. Bengal), 237 Fish (H. Bengal), 236 Limes, Green (M. Central Provinces), 279 Mango do. (B. Central Provinces), 271 Do. do. (H. Bengal), 236 Do. Sweet (M. Punjab), 358 Onion (B. Bombay), 246 Do. (Ceylon), 283 Pomegranate (B. Bombay), 247 Potato (H. Bengal), 236 Radish (B. Bombay), 246 Do. (H. Madras), 304 Sultana (B. Central Provinces), 270 Tamarind (H. Bengal), 237 Tomato (M. Central Provinces), 280 Curry Powder (B. Bombay), 247 Curry Powder (S. Africa), 14 Do. do. (M. Punjab), 355 Ghee (B. Punjab), 345 Pickles — Cucumbers (S. Africa), 10 Do. (N.-W. China), 93 Fruit, Mixed (H. Madras), 305 Do. do. (Burmah), 265 Mango (B. Central Provinces), 271 Mixed (Burmah) 267 Pickle for Ham and Meats (Ireland), Do. another way (Ireland), 391 Do. for Trout (Thibet). 639 Do. for Salmon (Thibet), 640 Do. Dry (Ireland), 391 Do. do. (Biltong), (S. Africa), 9 Plums, Pickled (H. Madras), 312 Savoury Condiment (S. Africa), 12 Soy (Japan), 424 Tamarind Juice (M. Madras), 312 Yeast (Afghanistan), 2 Do. (Ireland), 395 Do. (Sweden), 625 Do. Sour, (Norway), 476 391 LIQUEURS, BEVERAGES, ETC. Aloes Milk, Pulque, (Mexico), 453 Benedictine (Russia), 330 Chartreuse, Green (Switzerland), 634 Do. White (Switzerland), 634 Do. Yellow (Switzerland), 634 Cream of Vanilla (Hungary), 226 Creme de Menthe (N. Spaio), 597 Curacoa (Roumania), 517 Fruit Liqueur (Nepal), 329 Grand Manier (Portugal), 507 Kirsch Wasser (S. Germany), 183 Kummel (Poland), 500 Maraschino (Hungary), 227 Noyau, Cream of (N. France), 152 Milk, Sour (Thibet), 641 Orange Punch (America), 27 Sherbet (Persia), 489 Do. (Afghanistan), 2 Do. (Soudan), 586 Sorbet (N. France), 151 Rice Water (Madagascar), 442 Tea, Cardamom (Afghanistan), 2 Tea, Green Mint (Morocco), 461 Tea, Salt and Butter (Thibet), 642 Tea, Salt (M. Kashmir), 300 Printed by J. cV J. Gray & Co., St. James Press, Edinburgh. 704 '■" "- ■ ■ ■ '.'""'.