CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY FROM Cornell University Library 127N6 N57 Niagara frontier landmarks associaton olln 3 1924 028 832 306 \\<\ Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028832306 THE NIAGARA FRONTIER LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION 1900-1905 BUFFALO. N. V.: PUBLISHED BY THE ASSOCIATION 1906 TRUEMAN GARDNER AVERY President Niagara Frontier La;idmarks Association, and President Buffalo Chapter S. A. R. THE NIAGARA FRONTIER LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION A RECORD OF ITS WORK EDITED BY GEORGE DOUGLAS EMERSON SECRETARY BUFFALO, N. Y. : PUBLISHED BY THE ASSOCIATION 1906 Copyright, 1906 B^GEORGE DOUGLAS EMERSON INTRODUCTION. THIS volume has been prepared and is issued in ac- quiescence to a very general request that the record of the work of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association be preserved in a permanent form. This work, inaugurated six years ago, has been carried forward by an association of patriotic men and women who have most generously given time, study and thought, as well as means, to its accomplishment. It has been emphatically a labor of love, as no one has been paid one penny for his or her services, and a spirit of harmony and friendly cour- tesy has prevailed, the recollection of which is to all a de- lightful memory. In carrying out the design of the asso- ciation many chapters of local history have been made more prominent and the very important part which the Niagara Frontier has played in the history of our country we trust brought more vividly to the attention of the student of his- tory and especially to the residents along the border line. If its history is better understood or more clearly defined by the memorials which the Association from time to time has placed, marking historical sites, its members will be more than repaid for all their endeavors. So many have contributed to make the work of the Asso- ciation a success, it would be invidious here to attempt to mention names, but in the record, at some point, mention is made of the part borne by each one°who has participated in its ceremonies and exercises so far as it has been possible to ascertain and keep the record. If any are omitted their own modesty in not making themselves better known will account in most cases for the omission. To one and all who have thus generously assisted, the Association, in this, its published record, extends hearty thanks. There is considerable work yet remaining for the Asso- ciation, but it will be accomplished. Its present faithful laborers may drop out or pass away, but if necessary, in the coming years, other hands will take up the task and in a not distant future be able to issue another volume containing chapters equally as fascinating and full of interest as these which it has been our pleasure to record. The Editor. Buffalo, N. Y., July i, 1906. CONTENTS. PAGE. Introduction Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association i Griffon Shipyard 4 St. John House 26 Battle of Black Rock 32 Devil's Hole Massacre 43 Buffalo's First School House 66 Barton- Wheeler Tablet 72 Fort Tompkins 87 Court House Tablet 97 Officers, Committees and Directors 109-116 Treasurer's Reports 117-122 Report Committee on Sites 123 Reports Executive Committee 140-144 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Trueman Gardner Avery Frontispiece La Salle Tablet and Group Opposite page 4 Robert Cavelier De La Salle . . . Hon. Peter A. Porter St. John House Tablet and Group Scajaquada Creek Bridge .... George Douglas Emerson George Alfred Stringer . . Devil's Hole Tablet and Group Mrs. John Miller Horton .... Hon. Herbert P. Bissell .... First School House Tablet . Barton-Wheeler Homestead . . . Frank H. Severance Fort Tompkins Tablet Hon. W. Caryl Ely Unveiling Fort Tompkins Tablet Old Court House and Jail .... Court House Tablet . ... Philip Sherwood Smith Indian Cemetery, Buffam Street . Seneca Mission House 12 20 26. 32 38 43 52 S6 61 66 72 83 87 90 94 97 103 108 123 138 THE NIAGARA FRONTIER LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. The Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association Ijad its origin in a meeting of the Buffalo Chapter of the Empire State Society, Sons of the American Revolution, held at the Buffalo Club on the evening of April 23, 1900. At that meeting a resolution, proposed by the Hon. W. Caryl Ely, was adopted, which called for the appointment of a commit- tee of five, from Buffalo Chapter, S. A. R., who should cooperate with committees from other patriotic and his- torical societies "that may be interested in considering a plan for locating, along the Niagara Frontier, suitable monu- ments to commemorate historical events." A committee was appointed by Trueman G. Avery, president of the Buf- falo Chapter; and, soon thereafter, committees were ap- pointed by other organizations. Before the work of mark- ing sites was entered upon, nine organizations were repre- sented in the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association, by coftimittees. A meeting for organization was held at the residence of Trueman G. Avery in Buffalo, November 14, igoo, at which were present representatives of the Sons of the American Revolution, Sons of the Revolution, Daughters of the Ameri- can Revolution, Children of the American Revolution, the Society of Colonial Wars, and the Buffalo Historical Society. The cooperation of the Society of the War of 1812, the Niagara Frontier Historical Society, and the Men's Club of Lewiston was pledged ; and from that date these nine organi- 3 NIAGARA FRONTIER zations have worked together, through their committees, in prosecution of the proposed work, while correspondence has been carried on with the Ontario Historical Society, regarding the marking of sites on the Canadian side of the Niagara. At the meeting November 14, 1900, Trueman G. Avery was made chairman and George D. Emerson secretary. Committees on sites and organization were named. At a meeting held December 26, 1900, these committees were enlarged and officers were chosen as follows: Chairman, Trueman G. Avery ; Vice-Chairman, Mrs. John Miller Hor- ton; Secretary, George D. Emerson; Treasurer, Philip S. Smith. The original committee on sites was continued and in addition committees on finance and tablets were also ap- pointed and with slight changes and additions these commit- tees have remained as first named. At the annual meeting held at the residence of the Chairman, Mr. Avery, Novem- ber 13, 1902, the full board of officers was reelected for the years 1902-1903. At this meeting there was also adopted a resolution authorizing each society affiliated with the Asso- ciation to appoint two additional representatives. Acting on a suggestion in the report of the Committee on Sites, it was early decided that the first site to be marked should be the spot where the Griffon was built, and launched in May, 1679. This is on the farm of Jackson Angevine near the village of La Salle, in Niagara County, and on the margin of the arm of the Niagara known as the Little Niagara, just south of the mouth of Cayuga Creek. On the afternoon of August 7, 1901, this spot was visited by many members of the Landmarks Association, for a celebration of the 222d anniversary of the sailing of the Griffon. Mrs. John Miller Horton drove a stake to fix the site of the monu- ment ; the Hon. Peter A. Porter made a brief address on the history of the place, and resolutions were adopted declaring that the Association would mark the site with a suitable monument. At the next meeting of the Association, May 9, 1902, Mr. George D. Emerson, chairman of the Committee on Tablets, LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 3 submitted sketches for tablets for marking the site of the first schoolhouse in Buffalo, the St. John house, and the Battle of Black Rock ; and reported that the Niagara Fron- tier Historical Society of Niagara Falls offered to supply a boulder monument and suitable bronze tablet for the Grif- fon site. This offer was accepted, and May 24, 1902, was named as the day for the dedication. In addition to these four sites the Niagara Gorge Rail- road Company purchased and presented to the Association a tablet, marking the site of the Devil's Hole massacre, Sep- tember 14, 1763, which was unveiled with appropriate cere- monies September 13, 1902. • Mrs. Albert J. Wheeler also presented to the Association a tablet to mark the spot at Lewiston, where General Win- field Scott stationed a battery at the opening of the battle of Queenston, October 13, 1812, which was unveiled with interesting exercises, June 20, 1903, and the International Railway Company, through its President, the Hon. W. Caryl Ely, presented a handsome tablet to mark the site of Fort Tompkins, an important fortification of the war of 1812. This tablet was unveiled with the usual ceremonies Septem- ber 26, 1903. In 1904, Buffalo Chapter, Daughters of the War of 1812, and the Society of Mayflower descendants became affiliated with the Landmarks Association. September 9, 1905, the eighth tablet erected by the Asso- ciation was unveiled. It occupies a prominent position on the Buffalo Library Building, marking the site of the first court houses of Erie and Niagara Counties. During 1905 three members of the Order of the Cin- cinnati, a patriotic society, dating from the close of the Revo- lutionary War, were added to the membership of the Land- marks Association. At the annual meetings of the Association held in 1903, 1904 and 1905, Trueman G. Avery was unanimously re- elected president, Mrs. John Miller Horton, vice-president, George D. Emerson, secretary, and Philip S. Smith, treas- urer. NIAGARA FRONTIER THE GRIFFON SHIPYARD TABLET UNVEILED MAY 24, 1902 In accordance with the plans of the Association, the first tablet was unveiled May 24, 1902, commemorating the building and launching, in the winter and spring of 1679, of De La Salle's vessel "The Griffon," the first vessel to sail the upper lakes. The ceremonies were attended by a large and interested concourse of people, who gathered from Buffalo, Niagara Falls, Lewiston and the intervening territory. A large boulder had been transported from near the Falls and placed in front, and a little to the north of the Angevine residence, at La Salle, Niagara County, not far from the main highway and railway tracks. Upon this boulder the tablet had been affixed, bearing the following inscription : Hereabout, in May, 1679, Robert Cavelier De La Salle Built the Griffon of Sixty Tons Burthen," the First Vessel To Sail the Upper Lakes. Erected by Niagara Frontier Historical Society and Presented to Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association May, 1902. The day was a charming one, and the exercises in close proximity to the Niagara River, and on such historic groimd, at once impressive and inspiring. Shortly after three o'clock the meeting was called to order by Trueman G. Avery, Esq., chairman of the Land- marks Association. Mr. Avery stated briefly the purpose of the gathering, and introduced the Rev. Luke A. Grace, THE LA SALLE TABLET, AND GROUP AT THE UNVEILING LANDMARKS- ASSOCIATION. 5 C. M., of Niagara University, who pronounced the follow- ing invocation : Before Thy face, all powerful Father, Who holdest in the hollow of Thy hand the destiny of the atom and of nations, we have presumed to assemble as a reverent, a thankful people. On this historic spot, hallowed by the footprints of a devoted missionary who explored the wild- ness of nature hereabout that he might soften it by Reli- gion's sacred touch, we bend before Thee in filial love, grate- ful for Thy unspeakable mercies towards us. Through Thy bounty the blessings of civilization, of enlightenment, have been showered upon this region, once the haunt of the untamed savage. Improvement, with its attendant commercial prosperity, has been Thy temporal blessing unto us in so large a measure that our shores are fast becoming the Mecca of all who do reverence at the shrine of material greatness. Yet, O Father of us all, here where Thy wondrous works proclaim Thy glory, where the Cataract's diapason is an echo of Thy eternal Harmonies; here where the tumultuous Niagara, rushing towards the sea, reminds us that our days are fast merging into the fathomless ocean of eternity, we pray Thee: Keep us poor of spirit amid our possessions, lowly amid our greatness, dififident of ourselves, confident in Thee amid our conquests. We bow our heads before Thee and most humbly beseech Thee to hear us. From pride of life and lust for vain things, O God deliver us. From infidelity and ingratitude, from loftiness of spirit which breeds rebellion to Thy law, O God deliver us. From injustice to ourselves, our friends, our enemies; from hardness of heart which yields not at the cry of distress, from selfishness which turns the sweat of the laborer into the coin of tribute unto luxury, O God deliver us. From that modern idolatry which leads men to bow down before the Moloch of trade, forgetting the sacredness of Thy altars and Thy law, O Father deliver us. For us, indeed, the desert has been made to blossom as the rose, the wilderness to yield more than the scriptural milk and honey. That great work of Thy hands, the mighty 6 NIAGARA FRONTIER cataract, imperious for ages in its God-given freedom, has been ensnared at last and harnessed to the yoke of industry through the cunning of puny man. Let us not stand against Thee, O God, as a rival power. Let us not imitate Lucifer, that rebel angel, who blasphemously said: "I will ascend above the height of the clouds: I will be like the Most High." The wizard touch of genius hath, indeed, made this region to glow in splendor like unto the stars of heaven. Yet, O Father, we pray Thee to make us humble before Thy mightiness ; make us meek that we may assuage Thy wrath at our many iniquities ; make us just, and chaste, and charit- able. These blessings we implore of Thee through Thy Divine Son, Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen. Mr. Jackson Angevine, the owner of the farm, upon which the exercises were held, then stepped forward and handed to Mr. Avery a deed, conveying a plot of ground eight feet square upon which the boulder and tablet rested. The Hon. Peter A. Porter, on behalf of the Niagara Frontier Historical Society, in a few well-chosen remarks, tendered the boulder and tablet to the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association and called upon Mrs. John Miller Horton, who gracefully drew aside the large flag covering the tablet, exposing it to view. In making his address Mr. Porter said: The Niagara Frontier Historical Society was formed some five years ago, mainly through the efforts of Mr. Jos- eph Sturdy, and one of his first suggestions was that we should mark the site where La Salle built the historic Grif- fon. He did not live to see his suggestion carried out, but today that result is accomplished. As we are assembled at the birthplace of American inland navigation, we might appropriately call it the cradle of the commerce of the continent. Henceforth this spot, the earliest one of truly interna- tional historic importance on the frontier, and whose exact location was determined by the great historian of our Niag- ara region, the late Orsamus H. Marshall, shall not be LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. ^ unknown to the passersby of today nor to future genera- tions. Our society, seeking to aid in the task which the Landmarks Association has undertaken, desired to erect this memorial as our contribution to the good work. It is a boulder found in this vicinity, and it is a pleasant thought, and by no means an improbable one, that on his way from Lewiston to this place in 1679 La Salle himself may have passed close to, and may even have gazed upon, this very rock, which, appropriately inscribed, we have set up as the first monument on this frontier to him, the earliest white man to thoroughly explore our region, to appreciate its advantages, and still the most picturesque figure of our local history. ^ In behalf of the Niagara Frontier Historical Society, and by its direction, I now present this monument to the Land- marks Association and ask at their hands its acceptance and formal dedication. George D. Emerson, Secretary of the Landmarks Asso- ciation, accepted the boulder and tablet in the name of the Association, speaking as follows : Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen — On the 28th day of November, 1863, a most impressive ceremony was held. On that day, a great battle field of the Civil War, which shall be historic while time endures, was dedicated as a national military cemetery. It was the occasion upon which President Abraham Lincoln, the great civic ruler of all the ages, gave utterance to that memorable address which shall be rehearsed and repeated as long as human language is written or spoken. In that address, referring to the men who fought at Gettysburg, he said, "The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here, but it can never forget what they did here." As we are assembled today, within sight of that majestic river which for ages has rolled on its ceaseless course — ^under the glorious sunlight of this beautiful afternoon — face to face, as we gaze upon yonder memorial, with two hundred and twenty-three years of American history — a similar sentiment comes to my mind, and like Banquo's ghost will not down. 8 NIAGARA FRONTIER The Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association was organ- ized a number of months ago for the purpose of locating and marking by tablets or monuments historic sites along the Niagara Frontier. It was deemed wise by those having the movement in charge that not only the events and occur- ences of our frontier history should be recorded, but that the identity of their happening should also be preserved. The field is a rich one, but our work after all is only a labor of love. We cannot adki to the history of these romantic surroundings; we cannot call up from the misty past one character not already emblazoned in the records of the past two centuries, nor can we add any glory to the heroic men who, as missionaries of the cross, as tradesmen or agricul- turists or as soldiers fighting under the flag of their country, whether each in his turn bore allegiance to the lilies of France or the Union Jack of old England or the stars and stripes, but who in their own day and generation penetrated the wilderness, heard the roar of yonder mighty cataract, subdued the savage and aided in the development of that magnificent civilization we see on every hand all about us. Members of the Niagara Frontier Historical Society, you have in a most friendly and generous way anticipated one of the fondest dreams of the Landmarks Association. From the hour of its inception, to mark the spot from which was launched the first boat built by white men around these waters and the first vessel to sail the upper lakes has been foremost in the minds of its members and among the first points listed for commemoration. Today in the midst of these pleasant environments, we witness the full materializa- tion of our dreams. It is my privilege, on behalf of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association to accept from you this memorial. To say we thank you and' profoundly appreciate your inter- est in the cause only faintly expresses our feelings. Here- tofore, our work has seemed all in the future and tablets and monuments among the things yet to be. By this one act you have, as it were, drawn aside the veil that separates us from the future and it now seems the present wherein LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 9 anticipations have become realizations. As the initiatory step in what we trust will be an interesting series of dedica- tory ceremonies, it is worthy of a warm place in our affec- tions, to be treasured while memory retains her hold upon the things of the past. Again, in the name of the Landmarks Association, I thank you and accept not only for today, but for all time, the memorial of an event on our own frontier which, unintentionally perhaps, but under Divine Provi- dence, marked an epoch in human history. True, indeed, they builded better than they knew. May this modest monument, standing near the boundary line between two branches of the great English-speaking peoples of the world, in the coming years, in the ^b and flow of the generations who shall yet tread this continent, to all who shall gaze upon it, be an inspiration leading them to higher and grander accomplishments than any age which preceded them. . The remainder of the exercises consisted of an historical address by Prof. Thomas Bailey Lovell, LL. D., of the Niag- ara Falls High School ; a poem by Charles W. Wilcox, Esq., of Niagara Falls ; an address upon the commercial develop- ment of the West by the Hon. Herbert P. Bissell of Buffalo ; the song "America" by the entire assemblage, with Judge George A. Lewis of Buffalo as leader; and benediction by the Rev. Luke A. Grace, C. M. ADDRESS. By Prof. Thomas Bailey Lovell, LL. D. Of Niagara Frontier Historical Society, Niagara Falls, N. Y. We are, in these opening years of the twentieth century, the inheritors of a vast interest, a mighty power, an inde- terminable wealth, and an infinite responsibility. Nearly six thousand years have been laid on the shelves of eternity, since man began the herculean task of subduing the earth that it might contribute to the prolongation of his life and to his comfort and happiness in the world. 10 NIAGARA FRONTIER During this period, many millions of human beings have felt the warmth of the summer air, and the chill blasts of the wintry winds, and, after "life's fitful fever," they have returned to their native dust, and been blown about the plains. Out from the confusion of names and the cross pur- poses of these millions, there rises the one form, the idealized character, the composite hero, who represents the statesman, the philanthropist, the brave leader in defence of home and flag, the discover who opens new lands for new kingdoms and navigates new rivers and lakes for a new people and a new commerce, and' the man of God who follows the trail of the discoverer to win a strange people to the truths of religion. It is impossible to remember or record all the names of those who have contributed to the extraordinary develop- ment of this great continent. Victor Hugo says : "The human mind has a summit, the ideal ; to this summit God descends, man rises." The composite hero of mankind in subsequent centuries is elevated to this touch with descending divinity. This hero elevates with himself all influences, times, causes and persons contributing to the exalted position. Again our French author says : "From the beginning of human tra- dition men of force have alone glittered in the empyrean of history; theirs was the sole supremacy. Under the various names of king, emperor, chief, captain, prince, — epitomized in the word "hero," — this apocalyptic group shone resplendent." The hero of any group of years in any century must partake of the coloring of those years. He must be the product of its thought as expressed in its literature, of its commerce expressed in desire for new avenues of trade, of its vitality shown in municipal and national questions that force themselves to the front. The hero is the evolution of the severe thought and of the contact of the minds of his age. A study of him and LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 11 his environment reveals the brilHant glow of the light of that time and the exquisite coloring of the thought of that day. The hero is an object of search by the youth of subse- quent times and a subject of study by the man of earnest investigation. Rivers, mountains, valleys and cities are named for him, and children grow to manhood with added influence because of the heroic praenomen of which they are properly proud. Emerson says: "All ranks pay a pure homage to the hero of the day, from Coriolanus to Pitt, Lafayette, Wel- lington and the heroes of our own country. The people cannot see him enough. Hear the shouts in the street! They delight in a man. Here is a head and a trunk ! What a front! What eyes! Atlantean shoulders and the whole carriage heroic with equal inward force to guide the great machine. Mankind have in all ages attached themselves to a few persons, who either by the quality of the idea they embodied or by the largeness of their reception were entitled to the position of leaders, lawgivers, heroes." We may add to these three classes of Emerson, discoverers. "Great men stand for facts," but the hero for principles emblazoned by war, or for the crystalized thought of his nation or tribe. The hero of all time, may be rejected by his environ- ment, and his fellow-men may fail to find in him a reflec- tion of their ephemeral thoughts. He rises above them in his representative capacity, and like the statue of liberty he holds a light for the procession of the nations at his feet. A hero is not made by any premeditated adjustment of the laws of man's relationship to man. He is not placed on the pedestal of glory by any circumscribed group of fol- lowers. He must, sometime, be the recognized leader in his department, standing for the highest thought of his time. He must be the spontaneous representative of battle con- flicts, forensic engagements, civic disputes, self-endurance and determination in his march for discovery, humility and personal sacrifice in carrying knowledge of divine truth to 12 NIAGARA FRONTIER hitherto inaccessible peoples. The recognition of heroship must spring in the national life from the self-active instincts of the whole people. The world is full of names -about which there is a halo of glory, but concerning the history of the individual there may be but little known by the passing multitude. In the words Athens, Rome, there is crystalized art, lit- erature, bravery, war. Out of the procession of the great ones passing by the Acropolis of Athens from Olympiad to Olympiad a few are selected by the law of the survival of the fittest, and their names become the watchwords of the world in their fields. Pericles of war, wisdom, and work the inspiration. Xenophon of rulership and successful lead- ership the fullest expression. Columbus of adventure and discovery, the greatest exponent. Hampden of untitled nobility, the chief representative. Washington of statesman- ship, of generalship, of rulership, facile princeps, easily chief. These men have become the ideals and the idols of their times. In them is crystalized the epoch-making forces of the age, and Saul-like they stand head and shoulders above their fellow-men. From the myriad of great men, from the myriad of bene- factors of the human race, from the thousands of discovers who have added new worlds to human thought let us lift high with great acclaim, the hero of Frontenac, the hero of the Griffon, the hero of the lakes, the hero of the rivers to the gulf, the hero o'f Louisiana, the hero of Trinity River. Robert Cavalier Sieur de la Salle was bom in 1643 ^^^ died, killed by one of his company, on the 19th of March, 1687, on the banks of Trinity River in Texas. He was authorized by letters patent, signed by Louis ' XIV, on the 12th of May, 1678, to discover the western part of this country, then known as New France, and to find a passage to Mexico. Previous to the issue of this patent he had made his first passage from France to this land about the year 1667. The thought of Europe was towards this country, and great LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 18 expectations were raised concerning wealth and honor to the successful adventurers. The story of Columbus, the narrative of De Soto, and the trend of thought of the seventeenth century, influenced our hero, and La Salle taking his discharge from the semin- ary of the Jesuits, determined to follow the western sun and become a discoverer. Father Hennepin, whose name is associated with that of our hero, says of him, "He was a Norman born, a man of great conduct and profound policy." It was Father Hen- nepin who, about the time La Salle received this patent from Louis XIV, wrote his remarkable description of Niegara Falls, the thunder of whose terrible roar, he said, could be heard at a distance of fifteen leagues. It was on the 5th of December, 1678, that Father Hen- nepin, with his companions on board a brigantine of ten tons burden, entered the mouth of Niagara River, into which no such ship had entered before. They sang a Te Deum and other prayers to return thanks to God Almighty for a prosperous voyage. I beg leave to quote now from Father Hennepin's own narrative printed in 1699: "On the 14th of January, 1679, we arrived at our habita- tion of Niagara, weary of the fatigues of our voyage. On the 20th arrived M. de la Salle from Fort Frontenac (now Kingston), from whence he was sent with a great barque to supply us with provisions, rigging, and tackling for the ship, we designed to build at the mouth of Lake Erie. "The barque was cast away on the southern coast of Ontario and all supplies were lost. On the 226. of the month, we went two leagues above the great fall of Niagara, where we made a dock for building the ship we wanted for the voyage. This was the most convenient place we could pitch upon, being upon a river which falls into the strait between the Lake Erie and the great fall of Niagara. The 26th the keel of the ship and some other pieces being ready M. de la Salle sent the master carpenter to desire me to drive in the first pin; but my profession obliging me to decline 14 NIAGARA FRONTIER that honor he did it himself, and promised ten Louis d'or's to encourage the carpenter, and further the work." M. de la Salle was obliged to return on urgent business to Fort Frontenac, and Father Hennepin accompanied him to the mouth of the Niagara River, leaving de la Salle to continue his journey afoot for eighty leagues. "When I returned to our dock I understood that most of the Iroquois were gone to wage war with a nation on the other side of the Lake Erie. In the mean time our men continued with great application to build our ship. . . . Two savages we had taken into our service went all this while hunting and supplied us with wild goats and other beasts for our subsistence, which encouraged our workmen to go on with their work more briskly than before, insomuch that in a short time our ship was in a readiness to be launched; which we did after having blessed the same according to the use of our church of Rome. We made all haste to get it afloat, although not altogether finished, to prevent the designs of the natives who had resolved to burn it. The ship was called the Griffon (Le Griffon), alluding to the arms of Court Frontenac which have two Griffons for supporters; and besides M. de la Salle used to say of this ship, while yet upon the stocks, that he would make the Griffon above the ravens. We fired three guns, and sung Te Deum, which was attended with loud acclamations of joy, of which those of the Iroquois, who were accidentally present at this ceremony, were also partakers. Our men immediately quitted their cabins of rinds of trees, and hanged their hammocks under the deck of the ship, there to lie with more security than ashore. We did the like, insomuch that the very same day we were all on board, and thereby out of the reach of the insults of the savages. The Iroquois returning were mightily surprised to see our ship afloat, and called us Otkon, meaning, most pene- trating wits. They could not comprehend how in so short a time we had been able to build so great a ship, though it was but sixtv tons. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 15 Having conquered some discouragements I went up in a canoe with two savages to Lake Erie, and found that a ship with a brisk gale might sail up the lake, and that therefore with a strong north, or northeast wind, we might bring our ship into the Lake Erie. I was obliged to return to Fort Frontenac to bring two monks of my own order to assist me in the function of my ministry. I returned and on the 4th of July wasi at our dock, but did not find our ship. In an injured canoe we went up the river and found her well rigged and ready fitted out with the necessaries for sailing within a league of the pleasant Lake Erie. She carried five guns. The beak head was adorned with a flying griffon, and aq eagle above it, and the rest of the ship had the same ornaments as men-of-war used to have. The Iroquois then returning from their expedition were surprised to see so big a ship. . . . This obliged them to say, 'Gannorom,' how wonderful !" After some diiSculties and some delays they set sail on the 7th of August, 1679, on the first most memorable voy- age of the great lakes, with 34 men. After many surprises, delays, and discouragements this ship with its little com- pany, the illustrious predecessor of such an innumerable number of massive ships of the lakes comes to anchor in Green Bay on the northwestern shore of Lake Michigan. The ship was to return laden with furs, etc., but having started upon her return trip, she was seen by some savages to be tossed by a violent storm in such a manner that the men were never heard of and the ship was lost. La Salle, not discouraged, continued his journey in canoes, at a later period, touched at the place now known as Chicago, "making a long portage to the Illinois River, descended it to the Mississippi, which he followed to its mouth where he set up a cross and the arms' of France, April 9, 1682," calling all the country north and west Louisiana. What inspiring thoughts filled the mind of the intrepid explorer as he contemplated the vast country known as 16 NIAGARA FRONTIER New France. Only he understands its resources. Could the great and titled men of France have realized in part that a new empire was theirs for the taking possession, how different would the map of America be, and perhaps how changed would be the destinies of European countries. Mr. Fiske, the historian, says : "As Champlain was the founder of New France with his Canadian colony, so La Salle gave to New France its widest extension with his acquisition of Louisiana. Compared with this enormous stretch of territory, the strip of English colonies along the Atlantic coast would seem very narrow." "This was the noble culmination of his career as an explorer. He had accomplished a fitting result to the dis- covery of Columbus, he had revealed the grandeur of the discovery of De Soto, and claimed the rights of the river and its tributaries, for King Louis XIV for whom he named this vast tract." It remained for a subsequent ruler of France (fortunate for the United States) to sell this valuable domain for the comparative small sum of fifteen million dollars. M. de la Salle returned to France to organize another expedition, but the results were insignificant and after about two years on the banks of the River Trinity in Texas he was shot" by one of his company. Hennepin says, "Father Anastasi, who was near La Salle, administered the consola- tion of his church, La Salle, unable to speak, pressing the good father's hand to signify that he understood him and died in about an hour. The father dug his grave, buried him and erected a cross over his remains." Mr. Bancroft says : "For force of will and vast concep- tions, for various knowledge and quick adaption of his genius to untried circumstances, for a sublime magnanimity that resigned itself to the will of heaven and yet triumphed over affliction by energy of purpose, and unfaltering hopes he had no superior among his countrymen." Two hundred and twenty-three years ago a group of about thirty men, among whom were Robert Cavalier Sieur de la Salle and Father Hennepin, were looking upon the LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 17 keel of the vessel resting upon the stocks situated here, with some pieces of finished timber waiting to be placed in posi- tion. Yonder was the great river, whose murmuring waters had never listened to the voice of worship ; the great trees of the virgin forest enclosed the scene and a few wondering Iroquois, with amazed look whose only thought could be expressed by their own word, "Gannorom," — wonderful, — formed the connecting link between that which was to come and that which was to pass. After two centuries and a quarter we are to dedicate this site and to commemorate his work. Mr. O. Turner, in his history of the Holland Purchase, published in 1849, fifty-three years ago, gives exprefsion to this prophetic wish : "Were we prone as we should be dur- ably to commemorate the great events that have marked our progress, here and there in fitting localities, more monu- ments would be raised as tributes to our history and the memory of those who have acted a conspicuous part in it. Upon the banks of our noble river, within sight of the falls, a shaft from our quarries would soon designate the spot where the Griffon was built and launched; upon its base the name of La Salle, and a brief inscription that would commemorate the pioneer advent of our vast and increasing lake commerce." In obedience to that wish, written fifty-three years ago, we are here to dedicate this monument and to uncover the tablet which contains the name of La Salle, the honored pioneer and the intrepid discoverer. 18 NIAGARA FRONTIER POEM By Charles W. Wilcox, Esq. THE MAYFLOWER AND THE GRIFFON. The winds of December were scattering the snow From the dark waving trees to the valleys below; And ocean's rude waves, with their deep, sullen roar Were dashing their crests 'gainst the ice-fettered shore. Old Winter had breathed out his frost-laden breath. Enshrouding the earth in a mantle of death. When the gallant Mayflower, with her patriot band. First parted the waters of Plymouth's wild strand. O'er her tempest-tossed decks the fierce billows had passed. While through her torn sails swept the wild howling blast; And tears of deep anguish had frequently flowed As slowly o'er ocean's dark waters they rode. From the green shores of England, from kindred and home. To the land of the forest and savage they come; To build there an altar for Liberty's fire. And offer their lives on the hallowed pyre. Here were maidens as pure as the morning's first beam. From whose beauteous brows gems of intellect gleam; And matrons whose hearts were as brave and as true As warrior, or^knight, or king ever knew. There were sinewy arms by true manhood made brave To scorn the position of tyrannjr's slave; Working out for themselves and their children made free, A glorious future — a grand destiny. The years roll away, and the centuries glide; Yet onward, still on — sweeps humanity's tide. Neither famine, nor war, nor oppression can stay Fair freedom's grand march on her limitless way. Like the leaflets of autumn the forests recede. While the victims of strife and contention may bleed; Yet her temples still rise, afld her sheltering domes Give peace and protection to millions of homes. LANDMARKS- ASSOCIATION. 19 Fair Liberty's light, gleaming fearless and bold, Awakens the kingdoms and monarchies old; Uplifting a halo of glory so true All the nations of earth admiring may view. From Atlantic's stern coast to Pacific's wild strand Columbia's millions in unison stand; Still pointing with pride to the spirit that gave Our forefathers courage to cross the wild wave. Another scene we celebrate — Another march to high estate. This ground, historic, where we stand. The scene of action — thrilling, grand! This stream through ages vast and dim Was only known and seen by Him Who bade its mighty torrents roll And gave to man a living soul. Its age all parallel forbids. More ancient than the pyramids; And yet today its hidden might Has filled the world with new delight; And clashing wheels and spindles hum That all these waiting years were dumb; Commence with glee the noisy strife That onward bears the tide of life. Those dusky forms that roamed at will Primeval forests dark and still. Who hear the mighty spirit's sound When thunders shake the trembling ground; Who see His glance upon them bend When lightning's lance the heavens rend; Along these banks 'neath sheltering shade. Their transient homes once fearless made. Here chased the bear and bounding deer And robbed these waters for their cheer; Here drew the tomahawk and bow Against each painted, murderous foe; And danced at midnight's blazing fire The dance that bloody deeds inspire. Here brave met brave in deadly strife For maiden's smile — more dear than life. Here smoked the magic pipe of peace And bade revenge and hatred cease. But westward still, like dawning day. The "Star of Empire" takes its way; 20 NIAGARA FRONTIER The white man's genius here hath found A spot of interest profound. The holy priest and pioneer, Behold a future starting here; When sire to son the names shall tell Of Hennepin and De La Salle. These waters deep and wide stretch on For many leagues toward setting sun; And here they built the "big canoe" To bear them on to treasures new. Like phantom ship she sailed away, To reach no more her native bay. Yet millions since have treasure brought Along the path the Griffon sought; And cities grand, with wealth untold Adorn the way she led so bold. So here we place this changeless scroll Beside the river's ceaseless roll, To tell the incident sublime To ages down the stream of time. The living tide that westward flows O'er prairies vast, and melting snows. Shall echo Freedom's glad refrain From mountain top and spreading plain Where'er our starry banner waves O'er freemen's home or heroes' graves. Increasing hosts shall swell the strain From shore to shore and back again; That man created fair and free. Has right to life, and liberty. May with the guerdon fair in view, His highest happiness pursue. That wealth and labor, side by side. In happy concord may abide. That man with fellow-man agree. And war and strife no more shall be. When Freedom's sons and Britain's pride May stand united side by side; With purpose blended grand and brave. To break the yoke of every slave; And bid mankind from sea to sea Each other greet as brothers free. HON. PETER A. PORTER President Niagara Frontier Historical Society, the donor of the La Salle Tablet LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 21 ADDRESS By Hon. Herbert P. Bissell The Commercial Development of the West. Mr. ChairmaNj Ladies and Gentlemen — It is always enjoyable and profitable to commemorate the virtues and achievements of the world's great men. The occasion which has brought us together today leads us to contemplate, not only the life-work of a brave and a great man, but also the significance of the memorable event of which the monument dedicated on this spot will ever remind us. The launching of the "Griffon" was the first act in the commercial development of the great west. You have listeiied to an interesting review of the roman- tic history of the stout-hearted explorer whose name is ■uppermost in our minds today. You are sufficiently familiar ^ith the record of his voyages, his explorations, his tri- umphs, his trials, his hardihood, his disappointments, his greatness, his weakness, and his unhappy end. Valuable lessons indeed are taught us by La Salle's zeal, courage and persistent devotion to a deterrnined purpose. We are filled with admiration for his unconquerable spirit. In the time that is allotted to me today, I shall endeavor to present only a few thoughts: upon a theme that is inspir- ing indeed — a theme that shows us that this great hero and explorer builded so much "better than he knew." When he felled the trees of the virgin forest along this shore; and watched by the jealous eyes of the treacherous savages that surrounded him, constructed and set afloat upon the Niagara River the vessel who'se name should be dear to every American heart, and should take its place in history with the Santa Maria, the Caravel of Columbus, little did he dream that he was sowing the seed of a commerce greater in extent and prosperity than any the world has ever seen. 23 NIAGARA FRONTIER And when on the 7th of August, 1679, he finally embarked with his followers upon their uncertain, voyage, chanting the Te Deum and firing their cannon; and then spreading their swelling canvas to a propitious breeze, ploughed) the virgin waves of Lake Erie where sail had never been seen before, they led the way to a territory destined to become the most fertile and the richest of any upon God's green earth. La Salle was a religious man and ever ready to give effective aid to the Jesuit and Recollet Fathers in their self- sacrificing efforts to extend the Christian religion to the savage inhabitants of an unknown world. But the chief purpose of the building and launching of the "Griffon^' was a commercial purpose. It was intended to secure financial benefits from the fur trade of the vast and unexplored west. La Salle's former explorations had called for so many sacrifices of property that at the time of the occurrence of the event which we have assembled to celebrate, his creditors, excited by the rumors that he was embarked on a hare-brained venture, from which he would never return, had seized on all of his property in the settled parts of Canada; and the success of the first voyage of the "Griffon" out upon these great inland seas seemed to be absolutely necessary to save him from ruin and bankruptcy. And yet, when it became apparent that the "Griffon," con- structed under these remarkable circumstances and laden with a rich cargo of furs (whose safe delivery seemed to be vital to La Salle's further enterprises and his only salva- tion from financial ruin), had been lost somewhere on the return voyage, at the very time that her intrepid owner was preparing for his journey of exploration down the Missis- sippi River, the inflexible chief lost neither heart nor hope. Where could we find a nobler model for the manly and enterprising man of business? Instead of devoting any time to discussing the question of whether the Indians, the Fur Traders — a treacherous crew — or the storms of the Great Lakes had robbed him of success in his first westward venture, this stout-hearted LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. . , , , 33 hero at once set about building another vessel upon the banks of the Illinois, with the firm purpose of descending the Mississippi and sailing thence to the West Indies. And in order to bring to this vessel the rigging and anchors which she needed, he resolved to return on foot hundreds of miles to Fort Frontenac, along a path beset with indescrib- able hardships and terrors. Was ever such hardihood, such courage, such indomitable purpose! With such an example of commercial enterprise before us why should the heart of the modern business man ever fail him? And thus, with the launching of the "Griffon" and her loss upon her first voyage, — ^taking all of her owner's worldly wealth with her to the bottom of the lake, began the commercial development of the Great West. I will not dwell upon the history of this rich western country after the time the great hero whose name we rever- ence had met his untimely fate at the hands of half-hearted and treacherous associates. The explorations, the settle- ments and the colonization of the French, the British, the Dutch and the Quakers, the wars of the French and Indians, and the struggle between the English and the French for the possession of the Western American country, form inter- esting pages of colonial and pioneer history. But the next great movement of deepest interest to us is "the winning of the west" by the pioneers and backwoods- men during and following the war of the Revolution, which resulted in the addition of more territory to the colonies which had become the first States of the American union. The achievements of Clark, Sevier, Robertson and Boone during the last quarter of the eighteenth century exercised a great and powerful influence upon the course of events in the west, a century after the death of La Salle. These four backwoodsmen must be regarded as national heroes — the best types of the individualism, the common sense, the Democratic instinct and the hardihood of their class. They were true representatives of "the strenuous life"; and it is not strange to me that Theodore Roosevelt found such pleasure in writing their history. 24 NIAGARA FRONTIER It is not necessary for me to catalogue the events which extended the American nation across the American con- tinent — ^the purchase of Louisiana and Florida, the acquisi- tion of Texas and California. But let us consider for a moment the present condition of the tree which has been growing and flourishing from the little seed planted on this spot by La Salle in 1679. Let us look upon the com- mercial splendor of the Great West of today. The additional territory acquired upon the American Continent since the organization of the thirteen colonies into the thirteen original States, is today divided into three additional territories and thirty-two additional self-govern- ing commonwealths. A few general statistics will suffice to indicate the pres- ent extent of our magnificent western commerce : Chicago sends eastward over trunk lines of railroad 150 tons of provisions each and every hour of the calendar year ; Minneapolis exports 4,000,000 barrels of flour per annum; Duluth and Superior forward by way of the lakes 65,000,000 bushels of grain; Duluth, West Superior and Milwaukee receive from the east cargoes of coal aggregating 3,000,000 tons per annum; Buffalo receives from the west and by the same great waterway 150,000,000 of bushels of grain; Escanajba, Duluth and Two Harbors ship 12,000,000 tons of iron ore, while Ashtabula, Cleveland, Conneaut and Chi- cago unload an equal amount from more than 7,000 vessels that annually enter their harbors. The Detroit River floats four times as much tonnage as passes through the Suez Canal, and once and a half times the aggregate of all ves- sels engaged in foreign trade that enter our ports on the Atlantic, the gulf and the Pacific seaboardi, — an amount about equal the tonnage of London, Liverpool and New York combined. Do not these few statistics bear eloquent witness to the grandeur and unparalleled prosperity of the present com- merce of the Great West ! And I have told only a part of the story. Do not these few facts also bear witness to the truth of the prophecy uttered by Father Hennepin, when, as LANDMARKS- ASSOCIATION. 25 La Salle's companion, he sailed through the Strait of Detroit upon the "Griifon" in 1679: "Those who will one day have the happiness to possess this fertile and pleasant strait will be very much obliged to those who have shown them the way." The boundless wealth and productions of Iowa, Minne- sota, the Dakotas and the States farther west, such as Colo- rado and California, need only to be mentioned to send a thrill of pride through every American heart. And all of this splendid commerce has grown up from the industry following an increase in the facilities of transportation, — the very germ and beginning of which was the launcliing of the little vessel built on this site by the adventurous Sietir de La Salle, two hundred and twenty-three years ago. And should we not as Americans be ever ready to shower benedictions upon the memories of the brave and self-sacri- ficing heroes and patriots of America's past.^the heroes and patriots of the period of discovery and exploration; the period of colonization and settlement; the period of revolu- tion and independence, which brought to us the blessings of our free institutions ; and finally, the period of constitutional government, under which we have enjoyed so much happi- ness and prosperity? Benediction by Father Grace. May the blessing of Almighty God, Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, descend upon us, our families, our State, our nation, abiding with us, and assisting us in the dischairge of our duties. Amen. A very pleasant episode of the Griffon ceremonies was the placing by two little grand-daughters of Mr. Jackson Angevine of a huge bouquet of roses upon the boulder immediately after its unveiling by Mrs. Horton. 26 NIAGARA FRONTIER THE ST. JOHN HOUSE TABLET UNVEILED JULY 26, 1902 The second tablet unveiled by the Niagara Frontier Land- marks Association commemorates the St. John House, a spectacular incident of the burning of Buffalo, December 30, 1813, whose claim to historic perpetuation arises from its having been the only dwelling house spared by the Brit- ish and Indians at the time of the destruction of the village. The story was told in a well-written address by Prof. Horace Briggs upon the occasion of the unveiling of the tablet. The exercises were simple but impressive, and were held in the store of the H. A. Meldrum Company, No. 460 Main Street. The honor of unveiling the tablet was accorded to little Miss Nancy Strong Gardner, a great-great-grand-daughter of the widow St. John, who occupied the house, December 30, 1813, when the British and Indians swept through the village with torch and tomahawk, and whose marvelous diplomacy wrought this modern passover. The tablet bore the following inscription : The Site of the ST. JOHN HOUSE The Only Dwelling Spared by the British at the Burning of Buffalo Dec. 30-31, 1813 Erected by the NIAGARA FRONTIER LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION 1902 THE ST. JOHN HOUSE TABLET AND A FAMILY GROUP At the right is Miss Nancy Strong Gardner, who unveiled the tablet, and back of her, her mother and grandfather, who is a grandson of the widow St. John, the heroine of the episode LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 37 ADDRESS By Prof. Horace Briggs The St. John House. Mr. President, Members of the Association and Citi- zens — This is historic ground — for that matter, all Buf- falo is. The tragedies witnessed in this new born, newly chris- tened town — a village baptized in blood, and swept by fire almost eighty-nine years ago, have become a part ®f our national story. The causes, remote and immediate, which led up to the scenes that we have met to commemorate have been so well portrayed by Turner, Ketchum, Barton, Hodge and Dor- sheimer, and more recently and quite graphically by the sec- retary of the Association, Mr. George D. Emerson, that there is little need for their rehearsal here ; however, a very brief resume may not be inappropriate. The wanton destruction of Newark, now Niagara-on- the-Lake, by the American General McClure, aroused deep indignation in the British army, and from that moment they sought opportunities for retaliation, and they found them. By the fall of Fort Niagara, the whole frontier was exposed — ^the day of vengeance had dawned, the hour had struck, fire was to be answered by fire. In pursuance of that purpose, the villages from- Lewiston to Tonawanda lay smoking in their ruins. Then Buffalo became the objective and final point of attack. About one thousand British regulars and Indians, encamped near Fort Erie on the opposite side of the river, crossed and began an attack on this side, very early in the morning of December 30, 181 3. The little town did not lack would-be defenders in numbers, but in war, discipline and experience win victories. 28 NIAGARA FRONTIER Of the two thousand yeoman militia hastily collected from farms in Erie, Genesee, Ontario and Chautauqua coun- ties, raw, undisciplined and poorly equipped, some fled at the first firing — some did not wait even for a sight of the enemy. They forgot their boasted patriotism and obeyed the first law of nature — ^in plainer language, they "took to the woods." But with their lack of experience and equipment, would you and I have done better? Let us turn the shield — the observe shows brighter pic- tures; and conspicuous among these is Colonel Blakeslee and his Ontario volunteers. At the Sailor's Battery, near the mouth of the Scajaquada Creek, they stood their ground until they were out-flanked by the enemy. Picture No. 2, shows Lieutenant-Colonel Seeley and his band of twenty-five Buffaloes working their gun under such exposure that in an hour only seven men were left and one horse. Mounting that horse hitched to- the little field-piece, he and his Spartan band fought every inch of their retreat toward the village. Once the gun was dismounted, but it was quickly replaced and did service so long as resistance gave hope. Another picture reveals Colonel Chapin with his citizen troops contesting in their retreat along Niagara Street and making a determined stand near Colonel Seeley on Main Street. Moving the angle of vision a trifle, we face another ani- mated picture. In it we behold citizens E. D. Efner, Seth Grosvenor, James Sweeney, Robert Kane, Elisha Foster, Captain Hull and his brother Absalom, and a sailor known as Johnson, familiar names these to some of you, — seizing a njival gun from a vessel of Perry's fleet then lying in the creek, drag- ging it to the front and serving it gallantly, sending a nine- pound ball wherever a red coat appeared. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 39 One more scene — the on-sweeping of the British regulars crushed all hope; bravery resulted in a fool-hardy waste of life. Colonel Chapin, convinced of this, went forward m angry humiliation with a flag of trace. If tradition is to be trusted, that flag was unique — in emergency, a piece of his own linen tied to his sword. Meanwhile the torch had been applied to dwellings up Main Street and murder kept pace with the toi-ch. Alas ! that we must again read the reverse of our shield. But a brief episode intervenes. Some forty convalescent American soldiers had heard from a hospital at Williams- ville, the cannonading and came rushing to the rescue. A messenger was sent ordering them to cease firing ths gun they had brought with them since a truce had been declared. No marvel that then "our army swore terribly in Flan- ders," for, in violation of the terms of the truce, nearly every building from Tupper Street to Exchange was wrapped in flames. Newark was avenged. Mrs. Lovejoy, living nearly opposite the place in which we are assembled, was toma- hawked, and two days afterward her remains were cremated in her own house. When she saw the Indians approaching, she bade her boy Henry, then twelve years of age, to hide; for a few hours before he had carried a musket in the fight at Fort Tompkins. Many of you knew him afterward as a surveyor. By what arguments Mrs. St. John persuaded the British commander to spare her house, we may never know. She was a widow with several children, some of whose descendants live in Buffalo today. She was endowed with marked personality, was robust, fairly good looking and tradition further says, she was inter- esting in conversation. Without doubt she brought into action all the forceful qualities of her nature. In such a crisis how eloquently could a mother plead. That her house stood on this site, we have strong cir- cumstantial evidence. 30 NIAGARA FRONTIER The records in the county clerk's office show that in 1810 Gamahel St. John bought lot No. 53 in the village. In 1861, Philip Becker purchased lot No. 53 and some years later, cleared the site for this present structure. In 1863, or thereabout, during the process of the demoli- tion of an old house near this spot and nearly opposite the well-known Phoenix Hotel, your speaker was attracted from the street by the sight of strangely wrought timbers of the building. There was not a sawed stick in the whole frame- work; studding, joists and rafters were hewed from round logs or poles, and fastened with wooden pins, the few nails used were hand forged. It was evidently the work of a past age. Tradition declared that it was the St. John house. A small structure in front, I think of brick of a later date, built flush with the street buildings, appeared to have been used as a store. This also was partially dismantled. The fact that the first named structure was very old, proved by its construction that it stood near this spot, if not upon it; that these buildings were demolished in the sixties ; that lot No. 53 was deeded to St. John in 1810; that he would, presumably, build upon his own lot; that in less than three years thereafter his house was the only dwelling saved from the conflagration; that, in the sixties, Philip Becker bought lot No. 53, and subsequently a part of lot No. 54, both of which plots are now covered by these build- ings; that in the memory of men now living, the supposed St. John house stood very near or upon this site — these con- siderations are strong presumptive evidence that it stood here and that the committee are justified in placing the tab- let recording their belief upon these buildings. But why set up tablets anywhere? The desire to perpetuate the memory of notable events is instinct in our race. The warrior priest, Joshua, bade the leaders of Israel each to take a stone from the bed of Jordan, and with them to rear a monument commemorative of a crisis in their history. LANDMARKS- ASSOCIATION. 31 "When your children shall ask, what mean ye by these stones, ye shall tell them of the marvelous parting of the waters of the river that your fathers might pass through on dry land." But why place a memorial here? The St. John house was only an incident. True, but that incident was pregnant with meaning to us, and will continue to be to all the com- ing generations that shall people this fair city of ours. Its simple inscription will point to that fateful winter day, that Dies Irse, when frightened mothers and children separated from fathers and brothers, their natural defend- ers, sore pinched with cold and hunger, caring for the sick borne on carts and sleds, fleeing from the tomahawk ^fl^H^H^H ^HjSHBHBt Hi^^l ^^^^^^^^^fc* - \ !>. '^-^ ' ^9aHkv^^^|^^^H l^^^l ^Hi GEORGE ALFRED STRINGER President Buffalo Association Society of Colonial Wars, and Chairman Finance Committee Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 43 THE DEVIL'S HOLE MASSACRE TABLET UNVEILED SEPTEMBER 13, 1902 On September 14, 1763, occurred the ever-memorable massacre at the Devil's Hole, in the Niagara Gorge, a short distance below the Falls. In commemoration of this event, and in memory of the British soldiers and civilians who were slain at that time, a tablet was unveileH at the foot of the cUff on Saturday, September 13, 1902. The tablet was a gift from the Niagara Gorge Railroad Company and bore the following inscription: At the Top of the Cliff, Above This Spot September 14, 1763, Occurred "THE DEVIL'S HOLE MASSACRE" Where 500 Seneca Indians Ambushed a British Supply Train, Massacred Its Escort And Hurled Bodies and Wagons Into the Chasm Below; Only Three, John Steadman, William Matthews, And One Other Escaping. Erected by Niagara Gorge Railroad Co. And Presented to Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association 1902. The exercises were held on a platform at the foot of the cliff, and the programme was made up as follows, George A. Stringer, Esq., President of the Buffalo Society of Colo- nial Wars, presiding : Invocation Rev. John C. Ward Introductory Remarks George A. Stringer, Chairman Presentation of Tablet Hon. Herbert P. Bissell On Behalf of Niagara Gorge Railroad Co. Unveiling of Tablet Mrs. John Miller Horton Society of Colonial Dames 44 NIAGARA FRONTIER Acceptance of Tablet George D. Emerson, Secretary Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association Address Prof. Arthur Detmers Buffalo West Side High School Remarks Albert E. Jones, Ex-President Victoria Club Song, "America" Frederick Howard, Leader Benediction Rev. John C. Ward ADDRESS By George A. Stringer, Esq. It is a pleasure to record that since this Association began its work, only a few short months ago, there has been a greatly awakened interest manifested in the public mind, not only regarding the several places already marked, but those which have been indicated for the future. This has led already to investigation and reading on the part of many who desire to know more concerning the past history of this region. Let but a few more gifted writers arise as the author of the 'Trails on the Niagara Frontier,' and we shall soon have a more intelligent and widespread interest around which will redound to the honor of this part of the State. Owing to the generosity and courtesy of the Niagara Gorge Railway Company, through its Vice-President, Mr. Herbert P. Bissell, one of our valued associates and co- workers, this Association has been enabled to have this spot appropriately marked, a fitting memorial not only to the British soldiers who fell on that ill-fated day of Septem- ber, 1763, but a slight tribute, also, to that great nation across the sea, with whom in the early dawn of this twen- tieth century we are marching shoulder to shoulder for all that makes for a higher civilization and for the betterment of mankind, unto the desired end when wars shall cease and arbitration shall take the place of the sword in disputes which may arise among the nations of the earth. So may it be. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 45 ADDRESS By Herbert P. Bissell, Esq., Presenting, on Behalf of the Niagara Gorge Railroad Company, the Tablet Unveiled at the Devil's Hole. The Niagara Frontier is famous not only for the pos- session of Nature's most wonderful and stupendous scenery, but also for the many historical events that have transpired along this border both before and after the creation of the American Republic. The wise and thoughtful plan of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association to mark by suitable monuments the sites of these historical events is meeting with gratifying success, and the Niagara Gorge Railroad Company is glad to assist this plan by erecting on this spot a tablet to com- memorate the Devil's Hole massacre, which occurred Sep- tember 14, 1763, at the time when the stout-hearted English colonists were struggling for the extension of European civilization and European supremacy over a vast western wilderness. This simple memorial will serve for many generations yet to come and a reminder of the bravery and heroism dis- played, and the struggles and hardships endured by our fore- fathers during the period of discovery and first development of the magnificent continent, which has been to us such a rich heritage of liberty, prosperity and happiness. It is now my pleasure and privilege, on behalf of the Niagara Gorge Railroad Company, to formally present this tablet to the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association. 46 NIAGARA FRONTIER ADDRESS By George D. Emerson, Secretary, Accepting the Devil^s Hole Tablet on Behalf of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association. It has been my pleasure to have been connected with the work of the Landmarks Association from its organiza- tion. While to all. of us it has been a labor of love, pursued with intelligence and unanimity, I think we. can congratulate ourselves upon one feature, or, rather, one result, which has unquestionably come from the efforts of this organization, and that is the manifest awakened interest in the early his- tory of the Niagara Frontier. We have at least demonstrated that this border line possesses a thrilling, romantic past, interspersed at times with tragedy and full of important historic events. Many whose attention may not have been especially directed to that thought now realize that this rocky gorge witnessed the contest for the supremacy of the Western Continent and that all about here were enacted scenes that had a powerful influence in shaping the destinies of the world. Is this an extravagant claim? Think for a moment. The victory which came to the English arms over the French, developed the American colonies — the American colonies gave rise to the War for Independence — out of the successful issue of the War for Independence grew the great Republic of the West, with all its mighty and far-reaching influence in uplifting mankind and shaping the destinies of the peoples of the world. It is scarcely possible for the imagination to conceive what would have been the subsequent record of this con- tinent had the French maintained their supremacy, and the Niagara Frontier stands out in bold relief, a most prominent center of action in the tremendous struggle wherein history was molded and fashioned. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. ' 47 We today commemorate one of the most tragic events in all that early period. As the Niagara Frontier Land- marks Association, however, we meet to receive from the hands of another organization a tablet which shall tell all future visitors to this spot, as far as it may, the story of the bloody and ruthless scene enacted here one hundred and thirty-nine years ago. Gentlemen of the Niagara Gorge Railroad Company, your gift seems to me to tell not only of your own generos- ity, but is a splendid tribute to the work which this associa- tion has undertaken. It is your voluntary contribution to the task of preserving for all generations the records of a strenuous epoch in America's formative period and«s cred- itable alike to both impulse and execution. In the name of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Asso- ciation I accept it and return to you our most sincere grati- tude. Here, surroimded by as bold and rugged handiwork of nature as scarcely any part of the world parallels, facing yonder rushing stream, whose early history is so remote that the most ancient of man's records are as of today com- pared with its countless ages, we will leave this memorial, trusting, as we do, that in the good order of Providence never again in any generation will there be a necessity to perpetuate by bronze or stone the record of a similar tragedy. ADDRESS By Prof. Arthur Detmers. The Devil's Hole Massacre. The massacre at Devil's Hole, though it has little his- toric "significance, is nevertheless related to large events. It was the year 1763. The Peace of Paris, signed in Febru- ary, had terminated the French and Indian war, and left England nominal master of North America. But, though the French were out of the combat, the Red Men were still 48 NIAGARA FRONTIER to be reckoned with. Scarcely had peace been made when Pontiac sprung his deadly trap, spreading havoc among the conquerors. With that famous conspiracy, the deed which this tablet commemorates is connected, for it was the work of Pontiac's only Iroquois allies, the fierce, stubborn Senecas. About a century before, the Senecas had destroyed the Neutrals, the tribe that had long occupied this frontier. From their chief seats in the valley of the Genesee, they ranged the forest wilderness that covered all this region. They were the tribe with which de Denonville clashed. It was they from whom Joncaire got permission to erect his "trading post" at the foot of Lewiston Mountain, and from a few years later consent was gained to build a storehouse at the mouth of the river — ^the beginning of the present famous fort. As we well know, however, French suprem- acy was brief. The fall of Quebec in 1759 was France's coup de grace. Niagara capitulated and received its Eng- lish master. Sir William Johnson. The post at the mouth of the river was a most important one. It was a* doorway to the West — the land of furs. Not the only one, to be sure. Up and down the long reaches of the Ottawa moved the canoes of traders; and, to the south. Fort Pitt opened another gate into the interior of the coun- try. Still, for many years Niagara River held the suprem- acy. Traffic moved up Lake Ontario and the Niagara River to the head of navigation; at that place the portage began. A zig-zag path led up to the side of Lewiston Mountain, and thence, after skirting the river to a point near Suspen- sion Bridge, the road turned off, reaching the river again at Fort Schlosser. Over this narrow seven-mile track, for many years went the bulk of western traffic. As many as two hundred Senecas were employed during French times in transporting the goods. The English, however, had "progressive ideas." A con- tract was made with John Steadman to widen the portage and render it fit for wagons. In two years the work was finished, and the poor Indian, who had borne the heat and burden of the day, found his occupation gone. His soul LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 49 was already bitter within him. The exhortations of Pon- tiac and the instigations of the French had prepared the way for wrath. And now the Englishman's cool dismissal of him from the carrying business was the occasion and the opportunity of revenge. The massacre at Devil's Hole was the result. Let me tell the story briefly. On the 14th of September, 1763, a party of carriers — the second that had gone over the new portage — was slowly moving down the road from Fort Schlosser. Around the creaking, jolting wagons drawn by horses and oxen was a guard of twenty-five men. John Steadman, master of the portage, accompanied them on horseback. The day must have been as peaceful as' a day can be that is unvexed by sounds of human activity. On the right was the primeval forest, on the left the tumultuous river. The little party was approaching the spot where the river runs close to the precipice, and across which a tiny stream then poured its waters into the abyss. It was an ill-omened place of black repute among the Indians. Evil awaited him who ventured into that haunt of the Evil One. The intrepid La Salle had clambered down the sides of the chasm and peered into the gloomy cavern. He paid the penalty in the tragic death that afterward overtook him. The party was just passing this uncanny place when from the woods on the right came a rattle and crash of musketry, followed by a furious rush of savages. A plying of bloody tomahawks, shrieks, groans, howls of triumph, a crashing of bodies among the trees on the side of the precipice — and the bloody work was done. No ambuscade ever was exe- cuted more cunningly, swiftly, unerringly. Only three escaped. A drummer boy leaped into the chasm and was caught in the branches of a tree. A driver who was wounded crawled into the woods and remained there unno- ticed until the savages were gone. Steadman managed to sever the bridle, as his horse was being led away by one of the Indians, and putting spurs to the animal he dashed up the road amid whizzing bullets, and reached Fort Schlosser in safety. 50 NIAGARA FRONTIER Meantime the sounds of firing had startled the small gar- rison that was posted at the Lewiston end of the portage. The soldiers hurried up the mountain side and along the road in the direction from which the sounds had come. They were not far from the scene of the massacre, when, with a crash and a leap, the savages were upon them, too. The bloody work was done in a few minutes; and three score scalpless, mangled bodies cluttered the road and the bordering woods. Eight escaped. Eleven days later. Sir William was writing frOili John- son Hall, in what is now Fulton County, to the Lords of Trade, in England. He was trying to impress on those worthy gentlemen the necessity of cultivating the friendship and the affection of the Indians. "Unless We keep them in the best of temper," he was writing, "they will easily be persuaded to commit depredations against the traders." The letter was hardly finished when news of the massacre reached him ; and the letter contained this postscript : "This moment I have received an express informing me that an officer and twenty-four men, who were escorting several wagons and ox-teams over the carrying place at Niagara had been attacked and entirely defeated, together with two companies of Col. Willmot's regiment, who marched to sus- tain them. Our loss consists of five officers and sixty pri- vates killed, with about eight or nine wounded; the enemy, who are supposed to be Senecas, scalped all the dead, took all the clothes, arms, ammunition, and threw several of the bodies down the precipice." Four years later, he says, "They destroyed . . . about one hundred men, but two escaping." Such was the bloody baptism of the new portage. With eighty scalps dangling at his side, the noble Red Man went back to tamer sports on the Genesee, and grimly awaited the day of reckoning. The prudent old chiefs, however, hurriedly sent a large deputation to Sir William Johnson to disclaim responsi- bility; they laid the blame on the younger warriors; and entreated forgiveness. Sir William was a sagatious man. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 51 He proposed to make substantial gain out of the Indians' bloody folly. He was willing to forgive — for a considera- tion. For those hundred lives, the Senecas must cede a strip of land fourteen miles in breath, lying along and on both sides of the river from Lake Ontario to a point above the Falls. The repentant Red Men agreed, and promised to complete the transaction the following spring. Next June, Johnson gathered a great council of Indians at Fort Niagara. They came from the North and the South, the East and the West. All tribes of importance were rep- resented, except the Senecas — the most important tribe of all. They sat at home and were none of the Englishman's council. A peremptory summons was sent. If they Aid not appear forthwith to ratify the agreement, Bradstreet and his army (who were then posted at the Fort) would march against them and annihilate them. This unattractive pros- pect induced a change in the minds of the Senecas, and slowly and sadly they made their way to the great meeting. In the interval between the massacre and the Indian coun- cil, however, the English had been busy along the portage. Eleven blockhouses had been erected, about three-fifths of a mile apart, from the top of Lewiston Mountain to Fort Schlosser ; and these had been garrisoned and equipped with a cannon each. Moreover, before the Senecas arrived, John- son had got the assent of the tribes assembled at Niagara to erect a "depot of provisions" at the source of the river. Con- sequently, when the reluctant Senecas appeared at the coun- cil, they were not only constrained to give their consent to the erection of the Fort, which by that time was already built, but were obliged to acquiesce in Sir William's demand that the cession be made to include the new fort and enough land on the other side of the river to preserve the symmetry of the grant. It should be mentioned, that the grateful savages made Sir William a present of all the islands in the river "as a proof of their regard, and in remembrance of the trouble they had given him." Military law of that time forbidding the acceptance of gifts. Sir William turned over these twenty thousand acres to the crown. 52 NIAGARA FRONTIER And so the Senecas were forgiven. They were really let off easy; for the land along the Niagara was remote from the hearth-stone of the tribe, and, imposing as the magnifi- cent river was, it was nevertheless a spectacular bit of nature for which the Indian had little use. A thousand acres of land he probably considered by no means exorbitant price for a scalp. Only mature tribal experience could show the Senecas how costly his whistle was. He had had the keen satisfaction of avenging himself on a hated intruder; he had glutted his heart with the joy of a glorious, bloody debauch; and somewhere within him was a dim conscious- ness that he had registered a protest against the use of machinery as a substitute for human labor. He was not wise in his day and generation, but his folly served to smooth a path for a wiser people and a better civilization. ADDRESS By Albert E. Jones, Esq. I consider it a great honor to be invited to make a few remarks on this interesting occasion. I feel that the honor was conferred, not on account of any personal merit which I may possess, but as a token of warm friendliness towards the people of the land from which I came'. I am proud of being an Englishman by birth. I am also proud of being an American by adoption. I can honestly say with thou- sands of my fellow-countrymen that had we not been born Englishmen, we would have insisted upon being born Ameri- cans. I believe, with a recent writer, that the time is com- ing when there will be no such name as Englishman or American, but that we people, of one blood, one tongue, one history, will have one common name with hearts that beat in unison. While waiting here some amusing thoughts have passed through my mind. The last time I had the pleasure of meeting our gracious friend, Mrs. Horton, she was a Daughter of the Revolution ; today she is a Colonial Dame. Yesterday my own wife was a Daughter of the Revolution, LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 53 and a very rebellious one at that, for she had the audacity to tell me that by virtue of her being a Daughter, my three sons would be entitled to become Sons of the Revolution. Today, she is an amiable Colonial Dame. It was only recently that my friend, Herbert Bissell, acted as chairman of a pro-Boer meeting, to which he was ungracious enough not to invite me, for the reason, as I learned afterwards, that he thought I would be too neutral, and that I would be bored if I attended. Today he is a firm believer in Anglo- Saxon ascendancy — and so am I, because I have the honor of not only being an Englishman by birth and an American by adoption, but an associate member of the Gran^ Army of the Republic. I rejoice to think that while there was a time when all the horrors of war between two kindred peo- ple raged on both sides of this river, and it was unsafe for an American or an Englishman to show his face, the sweet bosom of the noble Niagara today teems with the people of both nations, with hearts full of peace and good-will towards each other, feeling that wherever the Union Jack and the Stars and Stripes float side by side, there is- a com- munity of interests, race and kinship which no other two nations in the world possess. As you have gathered from the admirable and eloquent address of Professor Detmers and other speakers, we do not commemorate today the massacre of British by Ameri- cans, or vice versa, but the massacre by Indians of British soldiers. It was simply one of the many sad events in a war to put an end to French ascendancy, and thus destroy the power which had opposed the expansion of the colonies beyond the Alleghanies to the Great West; a war which, though cruel, was of inestimable value to succeeding genera- tions. It is interesting to remember that while the British troops were helping to clear a way for the colonists to the West, the Uriion Jack was being carried by Colonists from Connecticut, New York, Rhode Island, New Jersey, and Maine, assisting the British at Havana under Lord Albe- marle with his fleet and land forces in 1762, in wresting Cuba from the Spaniards, so that at the time of this massa- 54 NIAGARA FRONTIER ere which we are commemorating today, Colonial troops and British troops were fighting shoulder to shoulder in another part of the world. What a glorious repetition of history. In 1762 we had the Colonial troops helping the mother coun- try against Spain; in 1898, during the Spanish-American War, the mother country said to the European powers, who showed a disposition to help an expiring monarchy, 'hands off, gentlemen, there must be a fair fight, and no interference here.' We all know what happened between the Colonies and Great Britain subsequent to the date of the Devil's Hole massacre. It would be painful and serve no good purpose to dwell upon it, but even when the Colonists revolted, there was one little incident which has always appealed to me. When lovers part, perhaps forever, they are supposed to return the little presents of love and affection which they have given each other, but they generally retain a book or a picture or a lock of hair, or even a little faded flower as a sweet memory. The Colonists, although up in arms, retained the Union Jack of Queen Anne in the Union Flag of 1776, as a sort of token of the tie which had been so ruthlessly severed, and as a sign and remembrance of their common history with the people of the mother country. The two nations have again become welded together, and I think I am a true prophet when I say that never again will one fire a hostile shot at the other; I will go further and say that if in any contingency there should be any attempt on the part of European nations to destroy Anglo- Saxon ascendancy, the Stars and Strips and the Union Jack will be found fighting alongside of each other, and the result is not to be feared. We have, of course, our jealousies, our rivalries, and our controversies, notwithstanding that we are next of kin to each other, but in the hour of sorrow the sympathies of one people will go out to the other without limit and with- out stint. When our beloved Queen — Victoria — passed away, the feeling of family sympathy and race kinship, so universally shown by the people of the United States to the British LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 55 nation, was most touching and tender, and it created a grateful and responsive feeling in the hearts of all English- men that time will never eradicate. Before I close, I think the time opportune to refer to a sad event which is deep in all our hearts. Almost exactly a year ago today there flickered out of this world, at the city of Buffalo, the life of one of the noblest and best-loved Presidents' — ^the work of a dastardly assassin. The tragedy was felt more keenly throughout the length and breath of the British Empire than in any other part of the world outside of our own land. The British people not only mourned for America as a nation in its sad afflicfjon, but their sympathy, profound and sincere, went out in full measure to the gentle, sweet-faced lady who was so cruelly robbed of her life's loving" partner, and who was her- self almost within the shadow of death. Peace be to the memory of William McKinley, whose noble and endear- ing qualities, whose integrity and ability, and whose admir- able, impartial and courageous administration won tributes from friend and foe alike. In its account of the ceremonies at the unveiling of the Devil's Hole tablet the Buffalo Evening News spoke as follows : Highly interesting were the ceremonies held yesterday afternoon at the unveiling of the tablet to commemorate the massacre at Devil's Hole. The dedication was made under the auspices- of the Frontier Landmarks Association at the scene of the bloody tragedy on the American side of the Nia!gara River gorge, between Suspension Bridge and Lew- iston. The Gorge Route has a station there. The tablet which is imbedded in the front of a huge boulder was veiled with a large American flag. The unveil- ing and dedication was performed by Mrs. John Miller Horton, Regent of the Buffalo Chapter of the Daughters of the Amei::ican Revolution, representing the Society of Colonial Dames. As she placed a large bunch of asters, tied 56 NIAGARA FRONTIER with Vermont green, on the face of the tablet with these words : "I place these flowers here in the name of the Soci- ety of Colonial Dames of Vermont," every head was bared. The scene was an awe-inspiring one. To the rear, across the seething waters, loomed up the high cliffs, their outlines cut out in precipitous grandeur. The sullen roar of the rapids could be heard and its muffled voice sounded to the listening ear just as it did to other listening ears on that fateful autumnal day so many years ago. Above, almost overhead, the sycamores, the birches, hemlocks, pines, and the oak trees, swayed gently in the breeze, their rustling foliage singing one of Nature's own poems in honor of the occasion. In the foreground stood old Elias Witmere, eighty-five years old, of Lewiston, a lifelong resident of the vicinity. His gray head was bared and his age-scarred face bore the weight of years well. He was a self-invited participator in the proceedings, but no less welcome on that account. In his hand was a gigantic fishing rod, which he planted butt down on the ground, its slender length wavering in the infirm clutch of the aged man. [From the Buffalo Express, September 12, 1902.] DEVIL'S HOLE TABLET. Commemorates a Bloody Massacre at That Spot by Seneca Indians in 1763. Story of the Affray, Regular Soldiers Escorting a Wagon Train Were Ambushed and Driven Over Cliffs. Tomorrow afternoon a tablet will be unveiled at the Devil's Hole in the gorge of the Niagara. It marks the scene of the massacre of English soldiers and wagoners by the Indians on September 14, 1763. On that morning a MRS. JOHN MILLER NORTON Vice-President Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association, and Regent Buffalo Chapter D. A. R. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 57 small detachment of regulars convoying an empty wagon train returning from Fort Schlosser to Fort Niagara was arhbushed in the woods at a small creek on the brink of the Devil's Hole. Men and horses were driven over the precipitous cliffs of the ravine through which the river runs. Some of the bodies caught in the trees and brush that grew from the rock face ; others crashed to the strand, fully four hundred feet below. Another detachment of regulars hur- rying to the assistance of their comrades was ambushed a mile or so away and wiped out. The little creek that runs through the glen of the Devil's Hole was red with blood that day and ever since has been known as Bloody Run. The massacre was done by a large party of young Seneca braves. The chiefs afterward denied that they led the party and insisted that their young men had got out of hand and did the deed in defiance of the elders' orders. The Indians were led by Farmer's Brother. Sir William Johnson, in command of the district, reported in official dispatches that five officers and sixty-four pri- vates were killed in the affray, besides the civilians in charge of the wagons. But three men escaped, two civilians and a drummer boy. Chief of these was John Steadman, a con- tractor, who furnished drivers and teams for the portage. The story of this massacre in time was incrusted with fable and legend. The ominous name of the spot, the grim, forbidding rocks and the terrible slaughter with all the accompanying horror of Indian outrage and mutilation, combined to render it even more terrible than the other mas- sacres that occurred during those years, the time of the Pon- tiac uprising. It struck terror into the hearts of the fron- tiersmen and daunted the gallant soldiers that had in charge the King's interests in the west. The massacre came at a time when every effort was being made to hurry reinforce- ments to the garrison at Detroit, beset by hordes of 'hostile savages. In fact, the convoy which was destroyed was returning from. Fort Schlosser, where it had the day before taken stores for the expedition that was being sent to Detroit. The path on which the deed was done was the 58 NIAGARA FRONTIER regular portage around the Falls, over which everything that was going to the West had to pass. If control of it were lost the most direct route would be closed and men and stores would have had to go West from Fort Pitt, now Pittsburgh, by canoe and frequent portage to the lake. The English did not lose the portage. The massacre was the greatest blow the Indians delivered in these parts. The troops hurried to the scene from Fort Niagara found only the scalped and mutilated bodies of their comrades; not an Indian was seen ; they had fled from the vengeance of the redcoats. The Iroquois Confederacy had not dug up the hatchet with their brethren of the West, but the Senecas, one of the divisions, were disaffected and they were blamed for the massacre, not without good reason. National feeling led to the' story that the deed was inspired by the French and some said that French troops took part, but that was an error. The Senecas paid dearly for their deed. They had to cede a strip of land along the river, from the head to mouth, a tract of thousands of acres. All the islands in the river also became the property of the crown. No lives were claimed in punishment, but the backwoods- men evened many a score without the formality of law. Parkman's Description. The facts of the massacre became obscured as decades passed. The region was a wilderness and tradition invested the tale with many fabrications. Francis Parkman, the his- torian, when writing his conspiracy of Pontiac, visited the Niagara Frontier and verified for himself the main facts of the affair. He investigated the traditions and personally interviewed the few inhabitants who had lived there in those dark days. Because of his close research and painstaking accuracy, the account written by him is accepted as the true version of the massacre. The beauty of his style and the vividness of his language leave little to be desired. His account follows : "The River Niagara, a short distance below the cataract, assumes an aspect scarcely less remarkable than that stu- LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 59 pendous scene itself. Its channel is formed by a vast ravine, whose sides, now bare and weather-stained, now shaggy with forest trees, rise in cliffs of appalling height and steep- ness. Along this chasm pour all the waters of the lakes, heaving their furious surges with the power of an ocean and the rage of a mountain torrent. About three miles below the cataract the precipices which form the eastern wall of the ravine are broken by an abyss of awful depth and blackness, bearing at the present day the name of the Devil's Hole. In its shallowest part the precipice sinks sheer down to the depth of eighty feet, where it meets a chaotic mass of rocks, descending with an abrupt declivity tj) unseen depths below. Within the cold and damp recesses of the gulf a host of forest trees have rooted themselves; and, standing on the perilous brink, one may look down on the mingled foliage of ash, poplar and maple, while above them all the spruce and fir shoot their sharp and rigid spires upward into sunlight. The roar of the convulsed river swells heavily on the ear ; and far below its headlong waters, careering in foam, may be discerned through the openings of the matted foliage. "On the 13th of September a numerous train of pack- horses and wagons proceeded from the lower landing to Fort Schlosser; and on the following morning set out on their return, guarded by an escort of twenty-four soldiers. They pursued their slow progress until they reached a point where the road passed along the brink of the Devil's Hole. The gulf yawned on their left, while on their right the road was skirted by low, densely wooded hills. Suddenly they were greeted by the blaze and clatter of one hundred rifles. Then followed the startled cries of men and the bounding of maddened horses. At the next instant a host of Indians broke screeching from the woods and rifle, butt and toma- hawk finished the bloody work. All was over in a moment. Horses leaped the precipice ; men were driven shrieking into the abyss ; teams and wagons went over crashing to atoms among the rocks below. Tradition relates that the drum- mer boy of the detachment was caught in his fall among 60 NIAGARA FRONTIER the branches of a tree, where he hung suspended by his drum strap. Being but slightly injured he disengaged him- self and hiding in the recesses of the gulf finally escaped. One of the teamsters also who was wounded at the first fire contrived to crawl into the woods, where he lay con- cealed till the Indians had left the place. Besides these two the only survivor was Steadmanj the conductor of the con- voy, who, being well mounted and seeing the whole body forced helpless toward the precipice, wheeled his horse and resolutely spurred through the crowd of Indians. One of them, it is said, seized his bridle, but he freed himself by the dexterous use of his knife and plunged into the woods, untouched by the bullets which whistled about his head. Flying at full speed through the forest he reached Fort Schlosser in safety. "The distant sound of the Indians' rifles had been heard by a party of soldiers who occupied a small fortified camp near the lower landing. Forming in haste, they advanced immediately to the rescue. In anticipation of this move- ment the Indians, who were nearly five hundred in number, had separated into two parts, one of which had stationed itself at the Devil's Hole to waylay the convoy, while the other formed an ambuscade upon the road a mile nearer the landing place. The soldiers, marching precipitately and huddled in a close body, were suddenly assailed by a volley of rifles which stretched half their number dead upon the road. Then rushing from the forest the Indians cut down the survivors with merciless ferocity. A small remnant only escaped the massacre and fled to Fort Niagara with the tid- ings. Major Wilkins, who commanded at this post, lost no time in marching to this spot with nearly the whole strength of his garrison. Not an Indian was to be found. At the two places of ambuscades about seventy dead bodies were counted, naked, scalpless and so horribly mangled that many of them could not be recognized. All the wagons had been broken to pieces and such of the horses as were not driven over the precipice had been carried off, laden, doubtless, with the plunder. The ambuscade of the Devil's Hole has gained HON. HERBERT P. BISSELL Vice-President Niagara Gorge Railroad, the donor of the Devil's Hole Tablet LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 61 a traditionary immortality, adding fearful interest to a scene whose native horrors need no aid from the imagination. "The Seneca warriors, aided probably by some of the western Indians, were the authors of this unexpected attack. Their hostility did not end here. Several weeks afterward Major Wilkins, with a force of six hundred regulars, col- lected with great effort throughout the provinces, was advancing to the relief of Detroit. As the boats were slowly forcing their way against the swift current above the falls of Niagara, they were assailed by a mere handful of Indians, thrown into confusion and driven back to Fort Schlosser with serious loss. The next attempt was more fortunate, the boats reaching Lake Erie without further attSck; but the inauspicious opening of the expedition was followed by results that were more disastrous. As they approached their destination, a violent storm overtook them in the night. The frail batteaux, tossing upon the merciless waves of Lake Erie, were overset, driven ashore, and many of them- dashed to pieces. About seventy men perished, all the ammunition and stores were destroyed, and the shattered flotilla was forced back to Niagara." [From the Rochester Post-Express of September 15, 2902.) THE DEVIL'S HOLE MASSACRE. On September 14, 1763, one hundred and thirty-nine years ago yesterday, British soldiers guarding a supply train were massacred by Seneca Indians at what was known as the Devil's Hole on Niagara River. On Saturday a tablet, marking the spot, was unveiled by the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association. The first account of this massacre was published at Can- andaigua, N. Y., in 1824, appearing as an appendix to the first edition of Seaver's "Narrative of the Life of Mrs. Mary Jemison." She had been captured by the Seneca Indians in 1755 and lived among them for many years. It was 62 NIAGARA FRONTIER Mary Jemison's recollection that the massacre took place in November, 1759. But she was mistaken. A battle was fought on the Niagara in November, 1759, and two prison- ers and some oxen were brought into the Genesee country, but the massacre of Devil's Hole took place in September, four years later. On December 23, 1823, Linus S. Everett of Buffalo wrote a letter to the editor of the "Narrative," in which he said, (we follow the spelling in the original) : I have often wondered that no authentic account has ever been given of that bloody and tragical scene At this place (Fort Sclusser), an old gentleman now resides to whom I am indebted for the best account of the affair that can be easily obtained. His name is Jesse Ware — his age about seventy-four. Although he was not a resident of this part of the country at the time of the event, yet from his intimate acquaintance with one of the survivors he is able to give much information which otherwise could not be obtained. The account that he gives is as follows: In July, 1759, the British, under Sir William Johnson, took possession of Forts Niagara and Sclusser, which had before been in the hands of the French. At this time the Seneca Indians, (which were a numerous and powerful nation), were hostile to the British and warmly allied to the French. These two posts, Niagara and Sclusser, were of great importance to the British on account of affording the means of communication with the posts above, on the upper lakes. In 1760 a contract was made between Sir William Johns- ton and a Mr. Stedman to construct a portage road from Queenston landing to Fort Sclusser, a distance of eight miles, in order to facilitate the transportation of provision, ammunition, etc., from one place to the other. In con- formity to this agreement, on the 20th of June, 1763, Sted- man had completed his road and appeared at Queenston landing (now Lewiston), with twenty-five portage wagons and one hundred horses and oxen to transport to Fort Sclus- ser the King's stores. At this time Sir William Johnston was suspicious of the intentions of the Senecas ; for, after the surrender of the forts by the French, they had appeared LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 63 uneasy and hostile. In order to prevent the teams, drivers and goods receiving injury, he detached three hundred troops to guard them across the portage. The teams, under this escort, started from Queenston Landing; Stedman who had charge of the whole, was on horseback, and rode between the troops and teams, all the troops being in front. On a small hill near the Devil's Hole, at that time was a redoubt of twelve men, which served as a kind of guard, on ordinary occasions, against the depredations of the savages. "On the arrival of the troops and teams at the Devil's Hole," says a manuscript in the hands of my informant, "the sachems, chiefs and warriours of the Seneca Indians sallied from the adjoining woods by thousands, (where tRey had been concealed for sometime before for that nefarious pur- pose), and falling upon the troops, teams and drivers, and the guard of twelve men before mentioned, they killed all the men but three om the spot, or by driving them, together with the teams, down the precipice, which was about seventy or eighty feet. The Indians seized Stedman's horse by the bridle, while he was on him, designing, no doubt, to make his sufferings more lasting than that of his companions; but while the bloody scene was acting the attention of the Indian who held the horse of Stedman being arrested, he cut the reins of his bridle, clapped spurs to his horse, and rode over the dead and dying into the adjacent woods with- out receiving injury from the enemy's firing. Thus he escaped and besides him two others, one a drummer who fell among the trees, was caught by his drum-straps, and escaped unhurt; the other one, who fell down the precipice and broke his thigh, but crawled to the landing or garrison down the river." The following September the Indians gave Stedman a piece of land as a reward for his bravery. Some errors were discovered in this narrative, and when the second edition of the life of Mary Jemison was pub- lished (Batavia: 1842) a new account of the massacre at Devil's Hole was prepared by Ebenezer Mix. As this was retained in the edition which Lewis H. Morgan edited (Rochester: 1856) it is presumably correct in the more 64 NIAGARA FRONTIER important particulars. In the two editions prepared under the direction of William P. Letchworth (Buffalo : 1877 and New York: 1898) the account is omitted altogether. Mix said that Stedman started on June 20, 1763, from Lewiston to Fort Schlosser ; and that there were fifty officers and men, instead of three hundred. The Devil's Hole, where the Senecas congregated, was about midway between the two places. The road approached within a few feet of the edge of a precipice at an acute angle in the eastern bank of the river, which descended from eighty to one hundred feet almost perpendicularly. Mix says : "As soon as the British transportation party arrived at this place the Indians sallied from their ambuscade, enclosed the whole body of the English ; and either killed on the spot, or drove off the banks, every soldier, officer, teamster, and assistant, amounting to nearly one hundred men, together with their carriages, loading, and everything else pertaining to the expedition, except Mr. Stedman, the superintendent, who was on horseback." Stedman's escape is detailed as in the previous account. Mix seems sure that Stedman is the only one who was not either driven or thrown off into Devil's Hole. "Tradition has transmitted to us varibus accounts of the fate of some few others of the party, that is, that one, two, or three others escaped with life, after being driven off the bank, although badly wounded and maimed by the fall." The escape of the drummer-boy is credited. (His name was William Matthews.) The Indians believed that Mr. Sted- man must have been specially favored by the Great Spirit and gave him the land over which he galloped in his escape. The next year, however, the Indians repented and ceded the tract with other lands to the King of Great Britain for a carrying place around the falls of Niagara. Both accounts of the massacre set the date as June 20, 1763. This, however, was incorrect. It occurred in Sep- tember of that year. Writing from Johnson Hall under date of September 25, 1763, Sir William Johnston said to the lords of trade in a hurriedly written postscript: "This LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 65 moment I have received an express informing me that an officer and twenty-four men, who were escorting several wagons and ox-teams over the carrying place at Niagara, had been attacked and entirely defeated, together with two companies of Colonel Willmot's regiment who marched to sustain them. Our losses on this occasion consist of Lieu- tenants Campbell, Frazier, and Rosco of the regulars, Cap- tain Johnson and Lieutenant Deayton of the provincials, and sixty privates killed, with about eight or nine wounded ; the enemy, who are supposed to be Senecas of Chenussio, scalped all the dead, took all their clothes, arms, and ammu- nition, and threw several of their bodies down a precipice." From this account, the exact date of the massacre cannot be told, but it was about the middle of September. In his history of Schoharie County, Simms gives an account of the massacre based upon the journal of a friend who visited the Devil's Hole in 1806. Simms says it is "the most authen- tic account ever obtained." He gives the date of the mas- sacre as September •17th. Recent investigators think the date was September 14th. 66 NIAGARA FRONTIER BUFFALO'S FIRST SCHOOL HOUSE TABLET UNVEILED OCTOBER 11, 1902. The fifth in the series of tablets, unveiled under the aus- pices of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association, com- memorates the first school house erected in Bufifalo, and is placed upon the R. G. Dun Building, at the corner of Swan and Pearl streets, which stands upon the exact site occupied by the original school edifice. The tablet bears the following inscription : On This Site Was BUFFALO'S FIRST SCHOOL HOUSE Built 1807-8; Destroyed Dec. 30, 1813 At the Burning of the Village By the British. Erected by the NIAGARA FRONTIER LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION 1902. The unveiling took place October 11, 1902, and the exer- cises, while simple, were most interesting. Owing to the uncertain state of the weather, they were held in Room 76 of the building, through the courtesy of John J. McWil- liams, Esq., and the unveiling was performed at the street immediately upon the close of the formal exercises indoors. There was a large attendance. Hon. T. Guilford Smith, one of the regents of the Uni- versity of the State of New York, presided, and made a few remarks in opening the exercises. Hon. Charles R. Skinner, State Superintendent of Public Instruction, and M 3I--T'] bi •< o .« i P 3 3 o > — H n O n D S C B -^ ff ^ ■l > tn r * o s w S 2 o. a *Ti (D 'Ji o ? I n Q a o ." r a o Oi C PI . 1 LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 67 Professor Henry P. Emerson, Superintendent of Education in the city of Buffalo, were also present to take part in the exercises. Rev. E. H. Dickinson of the North Presbyterian Church offered prayer at the commencement of the exer- cises, and pronounced the benediction at the close. A most interesting feature was a history of the build- ing of the original school and the preliminary movements thereto read by Master George Tilden Coleman, a member of Buffalo Chapter, Children of the American Revolution. It was listened to with much interest and was as follows : The First School House in Buffalo. ft Those who feel an interest in the early history of Buffalo will be gratified to learn that there is now in existence, among the miscellaneous papers of the Historical Society, a document giving an authentic account of the beginning of school house building in the city of Buffalo. This is nothing less than the original account book containing the subscriptions and payments toward building the "little red school house," of historic fame. It is only a memorandum book of coarse paper, with probably the roughest brown pasteboard cover ever seen on a book; yet it is extremely interesting, not only as giving an authentic account of the erection of the first school house in the city, and as showing the names of a large proportion of the inhabitants of the then infant village, but also because it is one of the very few documents relating to local history which survived the burning of the village in 1813. With the solitary exception of the town book of the town of Erie from 1805 to 1808, the account book is the most valuable article to the student of local history in the whole collection of the Buffalo Historical Society. The following is a lit- eral copy of the first page: "At a meeting of the Inhabitance of the Vilage of Buf- faloe meet on the twenty-ninth day of March, Eighteen hun- dred & seven, at Joseph Landon's Inn by a Vote of Sd meet- ing Zenas Barker in the Chair for the purpos to arect a School Hous in Sd Village by a Subscription of the Inhabi- tanse. 68 NIAGARA FRONTIER "also Voted that Samuel Pratt, Joseph Landon & Joshua Gillett be a Committee to See that they are appropriated on the School House above mentioned which Subscriptions are to be paid in by the first day of June next or Such part of it as Shall be wanted by that time." And the following is a list of the subscribers, and the amount subscribed by each : Salvanus Mabee $20.00 Zenas Barker 10.00 Thomas Fourth 3.00 Joshua Gillett iS-OO Joseph Wells 7-00 John Johnson 10.00 Nathaniel W. Sever 10.00 Isaac H. Bennett 3.00 Levi Strong 5.00 William Hull 10.00 Samiiel Pratt 22.00 Richard Mann 5.00 ^ Isabel Adkins 5.00 Samuel Andrews i.oo Garrett Freeland i.oo Billa Sherman 87% All the subscriptions were dated March 30, 1807, the day after the meeting. Each man's name was placed on a page of the book and charged with the amount subscribed, and then credited with the amount paid, either by cash, labor or material. The carpenter work appears to have been all done by Levi Strong and George Kith, whose accounts were also in the book. Their bills for work amounted to sixty-eight dollars and fifty cents. The credits for work and material were mostly in April, 1807, showing that the building was started immediately after the subscription. From the fact that Joshua Gillett is credited with two and a quarter gallons of whisky on the 13th of April, I should presume that "raising" took place on that day. But the funds, of credit must have been low, and Buffalo must LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 69 have remained without a school house for a year and a half more; for it was not until the loth of November, 1808, eight months after Buffalo had become the county seat of Niagara County, that the shingles were procured for the school house, when two thousand were furnished by Samuel Pratt. The building was doubtless finished up for use that win- ter (1808-9) for, on the 23d day of May, 1809, there was a general settling up, and the last entries of small cash pay- ments are made in the book. [From the Buffalo Express, of October U, 1902. \ SCHOOL HOUSE TABLET. Unveiling Ceremonies at the Corner of Swan and Pearl Streets. Two Kinds of History. Superintendent Skinner Gives His Opinion as to Their Relative Value. The spirit of local pride and civic patriotism was well represented in the gathering which yesterday witnessed the exercises that accompanied the unveiling of the tablet pre- sented by the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association, to mark the site of Buffalo's first school. The audience, though small, numbered many men and women prominent in the historical societies and in the educational development of the city. The tablet has been placed on the Swan Street face of the R. G. Dun Building, at the southwest corner of Swan and Pearl streets, which occupies the site of the school. Owing to the uncertainty of the weather the exercises were held in Room 76 of the Dun Building. The programme of the unveiling was simple. 70 NIAGARA FRONTIER T. Guilford Smith, a regent of the University of the State of New York, opened the ceremony with a brief address, in which he praised the spirit that had prompted the memorial and complimented those present as represen- tative of the higher culture and patriotism of the city. Then came the invocation by the Rev. E. H. Dickinson. An interesting feature of the programme was the read- ing of an essay by Master George Tilden Coleman, reciting the history of the erection of the first school building. On March i8, 1807, at the tavern of Joseph Landon a few far- sighted citizens started the movement for the ( mient of the school. The building, which stood on t it the southwest comer of Swan and Pearl streets, w; led in 1808. Its career was brief, however, as it was destroyed by fire when the British and Indians descended on the village on December 30, 1813. Master Coleman quoted the follow- ing account of the first meeting of the founders of the school, which is preserved in the archives of the Buffalo Historical Society : "At a meeting of the inhabitants of the village of Buf- falo, met on the 29th day of March, 1807, at Joseph Lan- don's Inn, by a vote of said meeting, Zenas Barker was in the chair, for the purpose to erect a school house in said village by a subscription of the inhabitants. "Also voted that Samuel Pratt, Joseph Landon, Joshua Gillett be a committee to receive said moneys so raised and to see that they are appropriated for the school house above mentioned, which subscriptions are to be paid in by the 1st day of June, next, or such part of its as shall be wanted by that time." Henry P. Emerson, Superintendent of Education, deliv- ered an address on the present school system of Buffalo. He said that the first school of Buffalo deserved to be com- memorated as the forerunner of a system that has devel- oped wonderfully in the last few years, so that Buffalo could point with pride to her public schools as comparing favorably with any system of schools among the most pro- gressive cities of the United States. He dwelt on the neces- LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 71 sity of developing the schools, as it is the spirit of patriotism and national pride intelligently applied in the > that make up the nobility of the men and women of n like our own. Then spoke the distinguished guest of the day, the Hon. Charles R. Skinner, the State Superintendent of Education. "I congratulate you," said Mr. Skinner, "on your pur- pose to preserve historic landmarks. It is an encouraging sign to note the rising tide of historic interest. You are fortunate 'enough to live in a section of the country so rich in historic interest, from the shores of Lake Erie to Lake Ontario, the thrilling history of which I think every Ameri- can citizen should read. You do a great work when you place before the people, and especially before the y*outh of your city, the landmarks of historic places." Mr. Skinner said that in the second century of its life the United States had taken its place at the head of the nations of the earth. He believed that the wonderful prog- ress of the country was largely due to the spirit of the public schools and he made a strong plea for the teaching of local history in the schools. "We are making history very rapidly these days," he said. "The public schools should be centers of historic interest and in my estimation it is more important that the youth of the country should be trained to preserve local history than to master the history of the ancients." A benediction by the Rev. E. H. Dickinson ended the indoor exercises. All went below and assembled on the Swan Street side of the building, where the tablet was for- mally unveiled. A veil composed of two silk American flags covered the tablet. The cords of the veil were drawn aside by two little girls, Eleanor Ramsdell, representing the Children of the American Revolution, and Dorothy Steele, whose great-great-great-grandfather, Zenas Barker, presided over the first meeting held to build the school house and whose great-grandfather was Buffalo's first superintendent of education. 72 NIAGARA FRONTIER THE BARTON-WHEELER TABLET UNVEILED JUNE 20, 1903. \From the Buffalo Exprtss of June, 1903.] TO THE SCOTT BATTERY. Memorial Tablet Unveiled by the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association at Lewiston. Early Days of Battle Recalled. Historic Lewiston was the scene of notable exercises yes- terday in connection with the unveiling of a tablet to mark the spot where. Gen. Winfield Scott stationed a battery of United States artillery at the opening of the battle of Queenston. This tablet is the latest in the series of memo- rials being placed by the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Asso- ciation to mark historic spots. Yesterday's exercises were the most largely attended, interesting and notable in every way of any so far held. The event commemorated was associated with historic incidents of far-reaching importance and gave the orators of the day a theme that afforded them inspiration and not even the hard rain of the afternoon was sufficient to dampen the enthusiasm of the occasion. No more picturesque, as well as historic place, exists in this, part of the country than Lewiston and no more appro- priate and beautiful spot for a memorial to the valor of heroes of a war can be found than the lawn in front of the stately Barton mansion, from which a view up and down the lower Niagara is obtained and from which, looking directly across the river, one sees the heights the American n -t Z n fT D 3 > OS " sr 2 k ? 5 X PI m <- -1 - n r PI S) " 3 5 ^ CU rt I ^ s p 3 3 cr — PI a 3 i H PI EIS 5 Sjf r r* O ni S-s s o 2 LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 95 dred and fifty men, about equal in numbers to that of the invaders. Our left was composed of the' militia from the lower village, under Major Adams; the center of Buffalo volun- teers, under Captain Bull, and a company of regulars, led by Captain Cummings; the right of some thirty Indians, with Farmer's Brother at their head, and about the same number of men from the plains, with Captain Hull in command. Realizing the dire necessity of checking the foe right here, our troops made a terrific attack, which the redcoats bravely met. Porter commenced the assault, leading the left against the enemy's flank ; our right attacked thefr other flank; then the center moved forward from the woods. Right around here, for over fifteen minutes the battle raged. Then the British broke and fled; some down the beach ; some along the bluff — but all seeking their boats at the creek. They left five dead and eight wounded on this field. The Americans and Indians pursued them hotly and wrought further havoc amongst, them as they seized some American boats at the lower stone house and started away. They admitted the loss of fifteen killed and thirteen wounded in the expedition; but the figures usually accepted were much larger. Among the wounded was their leader. Colonel Bishop, who was struck after his boat had left the shore, and who died a few days later. Our loss was given as three killed and five wounded ; but was probably larger. So ended the battle of Fort Tompkins, which is often referred to as a mere skirmish, but which in reality was of great importance, and deserves a far more prominent place in history than has ever been accorded to it. Battles are important, not merely from the number of men engaged, nor from the casualties, but in proportion to the results achieved. That was the first battle of the War of 1812, fought on the American side of the Niagara; it was the first repulse of a British invasion on this frontier during that war. Its victory saved Buffalo for the time being; it made our troops more alert to future attacks ; it gave them con- 96 NIAGARA FRONTIER fidence, at a time when confidence was badly needed; it cemented the Indians more firmly than ever to our cause — and all that occurred at the now nearly forgotten Fort Tompkins, which, on that day alone, if on none other, was the scene of a substantial victory. Whether it was again restored and fortified, I cannot say, but it probably was. Anyhow, it was wiped out of existence in the burning of Buffalo six months later. And in 1814, our armies transferred the work to the Canadian shore, and confined it there; so it was not rebuilt. I'he battle of Fort Tompkins was in reality the turning point in the American cause on the Niagara, during that war. Up to the day it was fought, success had lain almost entirely with the British, save for the capture of Fort George. Had they won this battle and destroyed Buffalo and Black Rock, Fort George would have been speedily avenged. True, severe disasters to our side were yet to follow, but with these two victories to encourage them, and with new leaders to guide them, our troops were again inspired to take the aggressive and a year later, to win other and greater victories, and to end the war in triumph. So we do right in thus perpetuating the memory and the bravery of those who here won so important a battle and of the old fort itself. And we dedicate this tablet, not in a spirit of boastfulness over our neighbors, but in the interest of history, and loyalty to our ancestors. From this spot, in 1813, the Americans, with hatred in their hearts, sent shot and shell from the cannon's mouth, toward those across the river. Today, ninety years later, we, their descendants, send to our Canadian brethren not iron hail, but the word of greeting ; not hostile bullets, but messages of peace. Then our message to them was 'Go,' and it was enforced with the musket; now our message to them is 'Come,' and it is extended in friendship. And our hope and prayer is, that henceforth, as of late, amity and good will will forever exist between the two countries, whose forces met in deadly conflict, around the guns of old Fort Tompkins in the War of 1812. LANDMARKS' ASSOCIATION. 97 THE COURT HOUSE TABLET UNVEILED SEPTEMBER 9, 1905 Away back in i8io the first court house in the City of Buffalo was built. It was a wooden structure and occu- pied the site of the present Buffalo Public Library at the corner of Broadway and Washington streets, although ex- tending further into the street than that building. Erie County had not been erected at that time, and Niagara County embraced not only its present territory, but also all of that now contained in Erie County. This court house shared the fate of nearly all the buildings in Buffalo when it was swept by fire December 30, 1813. A second court house was built on the same spot in 1816 and was first opened for judicial purposes in the spring of 1817. This was the well-known building, with the huge columns in front, in which courts were held until March, 1876, at which time the present City and County Hall came into service. Erie County was erected in 1821 and Buffalo became its county seat, as it had been the county seat of Niagara County previously. The Public Library, therefore, covers the site of the first court house not only of Niagara County but also of Erie County. It was to commemorate these interesting historical data that a tablet was placed on the library building and unveiled September 9, 1905. Appropriate exercises were held in the assembly room of the Society of Natural Sciences, and the following program carried out, Mrs. John Miller Horton, the Vice-President of the Society, presiding in the absence of Mr. Trueman G. Avery, the President: Invocation Rev. Charles H. Smith Remarks Mrs. John Miller Horton 98 NIAGARA FRONTIER Address Hon. Herbert P. Bissell Address Hon. Charles E. Cromley Niagara Falls, N. Y. Remarks Hon. Albert Haight Associate Judge Court of Appeals Song — "America" Frederick Howard, Esq., Leader Benediction RoUo F. Hurlburt, D. D. The day was a pleasant one and a large concourse of people were present at the exercises. During the long history of these two buildings many of the court sessions had been presided over by some of the most distinguished members of the bar of Western New York. The list of county judges, commencing with Niagara County and continuing with Erie County, is as follows : Augustus Porter, James Stryker, Samuel Tupper, N. K. Hall, William Hotchkiss, Fred P. Stevens, Samuel Wilkeson, Jesse Walker, Ebenezer Walden, R. L. Burrows, Thomas C. Love, James Sheldon, Philander Bennett, Stephen Lockwood, Albert Haight. The Superior Court of Buffalo, created in 1854 and con- solidated with the Supreme Court by the constitution of 1894, while its sessions were held in the newer building, had among its justices such men as George W. Clinton, Isaac A. Verplanck, Joseph G. Hasten, James M. Hum- phrey, James Sheldon and James M. Smith. Many of the best-known Justices of the Supreme Court for the Eighth District also held court in this building, among whom might be named such men as Justices Daniels, Barker, Grover, Lamont and Marvin. The exercises of the day called forth many personal reminiscences of these and other distinguished gentlemen who had been prominent, either as members of the bench or bar, in the earlier days of frontier jurisprudence. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 99 At the conclusion of the exercises in the building, an adjournment was had to the walk where the tablet was unveiled by Mrs. George D. Emerson, wife of the Secretary of the Landmarks Association. The tabletbore the following inscription : The Site of the First Court Houses of Niagara and Erie Counties. First Court House Built 1810 Destroyed at the Burning of Buffalo By the British — December 30, 1813. Second Court House Built 1816-1817. Abandoned March 11, 1876. Niagara County Formed from Genesee County, March 11, 1808, And Erie County from Niagara County April 2, 1821 — Buffalo Being the First Seat of Niagara County and Erie County. Erected by the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association 1903. ADDRESS By Hon. Herbert P. Bissell Today we celebrate an event of supreme importance to the well-being and progress of this community. The Niag- ara Frontier Landmarks Association has done well to place memorials upon the historic sites abounding on the Niagara Frontier. It began its work three years ago- by dedicating at La Salle a tablet commemorative, not only of the life-work of the brave and great explorer, the Chevalier de La Salle, but also of the first act in the marvelous commercial devel- opment of the Great West — the launching in 1679 of the 100 NIAGARA FRONTIER "Griffon" — the first vessel to plough the unknown waves of our vast inland seas, where sail had never been seen be- fore. Since then it' has erected monuments to mark the location of the first schoolhouse erected in Buffalo in 1807 ; the single dwelling left standing after the burning of Buf- falo by the British in the War of 1812; the battlefield of Black Rock, and the site of Fort Tompkins, as well as the place where occurred, in 1763, the Devil's Hole massacre, on the lower Niagara River. Today it crowns this excellent work by unveiling a tablet commemorating the first court houses of Erie and Niagara counties, and it is difficult to realize that a full century has not yet elapsed since the establishment of the first tribunals of justice in this splendid domain of Western New York. We are not here to review the distinguished achievements of an individual, nor to sing of romantic deeds of bravery in exploration or in battle ; but to commemorate the institution in a wilderness of a system of judicature for the adjust- ment of human differences, where, under the dominion of the terrible Iroquois, had formerly passed unchallenged the doctrine that "might makes right." We celebrate the inauguration here of a temple of justice, and in the words of Daniel Webster, "Justice is the great interest of man on earth. It is the ligament which holds civilized beings and civilized nations together. Wherever her temple stands, and so long as it is duly honored, there is a foundation for social security, general happiness and the improvement and progress of our race." The early savage protected his life and property only by his individual vigilance, and the strength of his own right arm, and it was not until the dawn of civilization gradually broke upon his darkened mind that the advantages of asso- ciation were revealed to him. With association came law and order ; with law and order came right and justice ; and with right and justice came peace and prosperity. We commemorate today the beginning of law and order, right and justice, peace and prosperity on the Niagara Frontier. And it is peculiarly interesting and gratifying to LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 101 have this occasion graced by the presence of one of our most distinguished fellow citizens, who represents in his life- work the best success that can be achieved in the adminis- tration of justice. Not only does Judge Albert Haight bind the past to the present as the only member of the judiciary still upon the bench, who held court in the building whose site we mark by this tablet, but he also exemplifies in his career what is the best and most admirable in our American life. To progress by steady steps from a judge of the lowest - court of record to membership in the highest and noblest judicial body in the Empire State, illustrates the advance- ment possible to such able and upright men along thf path- way of American opportunity. It is a pleasure to recall the names of other judges who administered justice in the old court house prior to its aban- doimient in 1876, and during the almost sixty years of its existence upon this spot. That must, indeed, be a roll of honor which includes the names of Martin Grover, Noah Davis, John L. Talcott, Charles Daniels, Richard P. Marvin, George Barker, Isaac A. Verplanck, Joseph G. Masten and George W. Clinton. You have already been informed ,in eloquent phrase of the historical facts appropriately recalled on this occasion, and it therefore remains for me to speak further only of some of the. great advocates who practiced before the tri- bunals that sat in this first court house. We are at once reminded of the words uttered by a great Englishman : "The bar is inseparable from our national life, from the security of our national institutions — the calling upon which in no small degree depend the rights and liberties of both individuals and nations. Is it not itself high privilege and duty to supply the just weights and balances of the scale of justice, and stand forward for the weak and helpless, upon great occasions, when public liberties are in ques- tion?" These words are suggestive, indeed, of the measureless responsibilities resting upon the American lawyer, and they 103 NIAGARA FRONTIER have a special application today when we remember that two of the great advocates who practiced their profession here afterwards achieved the exalted position of President of the United States — Millard Fillmore and Grover Cleve- land. And these names naturally recall the names of Nathan K. Hall, Solomon G. Haven and Wilson S. Bissell, who were associated with them. The bar of Erie County still holds a high place in the State of New York, but never did it rejoice in the possession of greater names and better reputations than when prac- ticed before the tribunals that sat in this old court house, and such men as Albert P. Laning, George R. Babcock, John Ganson, E. Carlton Sprague, Albert H. Tracy, James O. Putnam, Oscar Folsom, Henry W. Rogers, Lyman K. Bass, Dennis Bowen, Loran L. Lewis, Benjamin H. Austin, John C. Strong, William F. Miller, James M. Willett, William H. Gurney, William C. Bryant, James M. Humphrey, and many others equally distinguished. When we lawyers of today contemplate the brilliant tal- ents, noble characters and honorable accomplishments of the brethren who once represented the judiciary and the bar in this place, we cannot fail to take pride in the noble profes- sion to which we belong. We must appreciate that it is the duty of the lawyer to maintain the honor of the profession, to protect and defend our system of jurisprudence from injurious assaults and unwise innovations, and to maintain constitutional liberty. When we review the history of the first temple of justice erected in a wilderness where, but a short time before, the hostile savage had held absolute sway, we realize that law is a necessary element of civilization and the handmaid of progress. The legal profession is surely an important factor in all civilized governments, and the lawyer has always been fore- most in every struggle for civil and religious liberty, as well as in efforts for moral and material advancement. From the time when, on the field of Runnymede, a tyran- nical King was forced to affix his seal to Magna Charta, THE COURT HOUSE TABLET, LIBRARY BUILDING, CLINTON AND WASHINGTON STREETS, BUFFALO, N. Y. • Unveiled September 7, igos, by Mrs. George D. Emerson (From Uluslratrd Sunday Express, Copyrighted, 190s, by The J. N. Matthews Co.] LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 103 until the days preceding the American Revolution, when the lawyers taught the people of America their duty, and, having shown them the way to liberty, led them through the struggle which culminated in the establishment of a gov- ernment, the cornerstone of which is personal and religious freedom, the lawyer has ever been a potential factor. And with a judiciary fearless and incorruptible, free from influ- ences that prevent it from seeing and maintaining the right ; free from the influences of wealth and political ambition, the liberties of a people can be maintained, their happiness secured, and their rights and privileges enjoyed, even though legislation may be unwise and rulers may be despotic. ADDRESS By Hon. Charles E. Cromley Representing the Niagara County Bar Life's pathway is marked by countless milestones, and whether it be of the individual, the State, or the Nation, monuments are reared to mark their progress and their achievements; some are invisible, intangible, the fruition of a great work, or a noble, philanthropic life; others in pillars of marble, or tablets of bronze. From the dawn of creation when chaos ceased and order began its reign, events and happenings, great deeds, remark- able achievements and noteworthy occurrences have been preserved in tradition and in written history, and in the hearts of the people great acts, heroic endeavor and unselfish devotion will live foiever, imperishable monuments. The history of our country and its remarkable progress, its ad- vancement and prosperity, is at all times interesting, and a source of national pride, but quite as attractive and interest- ing to us is the history of our own State, and more particu- larly that immediate part wherein our tents are pitched, and whose surroundings constitute a portion of our own pre- serve, our own home. 104 NIAGARA FRONTIER This locality, this borderland washed by the waters of the historic Niagara, the dividing line twixt that country over whose domain floats the cross of St. George, and our own dear, native land, is rich in historic remembrance and historic lore, and within cannon-shot of this spot events have occurred in the by-gone days which form a part in the glory of our country and its wondrous history. The onward march of progress, our country's develop- ment and the changes wrought by time, are marked here and there by the hand of man, and the "markers" placed and established by loving hearts, thoughtful minds, willing hands and patriotic impulses, are monuments as well to those who placed them. In the stress and strife of our modern life when the struggle and race for wealth is apparently all-absorbing, it is, inded, inspiring and gratifying to observe the unselfish devotion and thoughtfulness of that small band of women, together with a few of the sterner sex, who seek to per- petuate in granite boulders and tablets of bronze, historic places made so by the devotion and patriotism of our fore- fathers, and rendered dear to the American heart by asso- ciation, tradition and history. We love to dwell upon thoughts and themes of national pride, and the attractiveness of our immediate and home surroundings is enhanced and glorified by the presence of some spot, place or object, made prominent by association with, or a part of some important event in national, state or local history. To the patriotism, devotion and national pride of a little band of women are we indebted for the preservation and perpetuation of historic scenes and places, and their rare thoughtfulness and womanly tenderness in marking the graves of the, patriots of '76, will forever en- shrine their organization in the hearts of all true Americans. And to the civic pride, love of home and its surroundings, of these same women, aided and encouraged by historical societies, are we indebted for the perpetuation and preser- vation of landmarks dear to the civic heart, and the gather- ing here today but serves to demonstrate the truth of the assertion. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 105 In 1808, Genesee County, lying to the east, embraced all Western New York; later, Erie and Niagara were carved from Genesee, and your present Queen City of the Lakes was the county seat of the greater Niagara County. The first court house was erected here in 1810, and was destroyed at the burning of Buffalo three years later. The second court house was erected here in 1816, and continued as the county seat of greater Niagara County until 1821, at which time the population of the southern part of the county having increased so rapidly a new division seemed desirable, and from Niagara County was set off the present County of Erie. Among the six or eight counties that were carved out of old Genesee, Niagara was the only one which ever grew great enough to have a child of its own. Niagara is proud of her descent from Genesee, and inclined to be boastful of her parentage of Erie ; she is certainly proud of her child. Niagara, like Erie, has brought forth and reared men whose names adorn the legal and judiciary history of our locality, and some of whom achieved state, and even national reputation. Of the early Niagara County bar, Bates Cook of Lewis- ton, once member of Congress, afterward comptroller of our State, and a trusted friend and confidante of Thurlow Weed, was a leader. Augustus Porter, the first county judge of Old Niagara, then embracing the present County of Erie, shed lustre upon the judiciary of his day by his poise, acumen, refine- ment and intellectuality. In 1821 came the division of Old Niagara, and at Lock- port was established the county seat of the new and present Niagara, where it has since continued and remained. The establishment of the county seat attracted to Lockpprt some of the best minds of. the new Niagara County bar, and we of the younger generation have come to beUeve that it repre- sented intellect, honor, professional courtesy, and an esprit du corps which was manifest in lofty ideals and clean prac- tices. 106 NIAGARA FRONTIER The long line of members of the county judiciary of the new and present County of Niagara, dating from the divi- sion of the first and Old Niagara in 182 1, were men of high character and large mental calibre, and while we of today are prone to consider the office as a subordinate one, and fail to award it the high consideration it should command, it is the result more of the strenuous times, the increase in members of our Supreme Court justices, and its limited jurisdiction, rather than any decline or lowering of the standard of excellence which our county judiciary has al- ways maintained. The tablet unveiled here today commemorates the erec- tion of two court houses upon this site, and to the local pride and rare thoughtfulness of the Landmarks Association are we indebted for the perpetuation of this spot, and in a man- ner so marked that "he who runs may read." Time will continue to run its course, men will come and go, these stately edifices will crumble and decay, but history will survive, and generations yet unborn will come to know this spot, and the significance of what we do here today. Law controls the universe, both heaven and earth obey it ; the court house, that temple of justice and the bulwark of our liberty, represents in all free countries the palladium of the people's rights. The spot and place which you commemorate today will by your act be perpetuated and continued and kept bright in the hearts of your people and ours. The two great coun- ties whose seat of justice first covered this spot, are today the cynosure of all eyes, and attracting the attention of the world. Their development, their resources, the commerce of the great lakes, their commercial and manufacturing industries, the salubrity of climate, and progressiveness of their people, render this section of ours delightful as a dwelling place, and commercially attractive. The labor of love, inspired by civic pride and historic associations, indulged in by the Landmarks Association, and their allies, the ladies' patriotic organizations, is of last- ing benefit and inculcates in the minds of the younger and LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 107 coming generation that spirit of local fealty, and local pride, which is manifest here today. Niagara joins with Erie in this commemoration, and may the tablet unveiled here today not only perpetuate the events recorded upon its brazen surface, but may it signify and perpetuate the bond of amity and good-will existing between the two counties, which were so long united, but afterwards divided, but whose people are still one in heart, in sentiment, in interest and goodfellowship. ADDRESS By Hon. Albert Haight Associate Judge, Court of Appeals I can at this time but acknowledge the many kind words spoken personally. I must apologize that I have not pre- pared some remarks suitable for this occasion, and I can only, therefore, indulge in a few reflections. Was it yesterday, or the day before? Possibly it was sometime before that I was chosen county judge of this county. I well recall the campaign preceding my election. The press then commented on my youth, and said it seemed like robbing the cradle to select me for a county judge. I feel as young today, although I may be more deliberate in my movements, and I now wait for an elevator instead of running up the stairs from the bottom to the top floor of a building. The Secretary of State has recorded thirty-three years of service by me since my first election. I can recall to mind just how the old court house looked, especially the court room heating apparatus, which con- sisted of a big box stove into which could be placed four- foot logs to be burned. My first entrance into the court room in my judicial capacity as county judge produced quite a sensation for me. In those days it was the custom to arm the sheriffs with six-foot poles with which to com- 108 NIAGARA FRONTIER niand order when necessary. Grover Cleveland was the sheriff. He had summoned all the deputies from all over the county for the occasion, and he had them lined up on both sides of the doorway, with their staffs in hand. When I undertook to enter there was such a loud and vigorous thumping of their staffs on the floor, heralding my approach, that it so embarrassed the new judge that he never really knew how he reached his seat at the bench. Since then I have presided at many interesting and im- portant trials. And since that time it has been my fortune to preside in many counties in the state and in very many court houses, but the fondest recollections of my judicial career relate back to the scenes of that little court room in that little old court house, which stood on this site, and the memory of which we are here to commemorate. PHILIP SHERWOOD SMITH Treasurer Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 109 OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES 1900-01-02 TRUEMAN G. AVERY Chairman Mrs. JOHN MILLER HORTON Vice-Chairman GEORGE D. EMERSON Secretary PHILIP S. SMITH Treasurer COMMITTEE ON SITES. Frank H. Severance, Chairman; Philip S. Smith, Henry R. Howland, Mrs. Mary N. Thompson, Mrs. Oscar L. Harries, Prof. Horace Briggs, Hon. Peter A. Porter, J. Boardman Scovell, a. W. Hoffman. FINANCE COMMITTEE. George A. Stringer, Chairman; W. Caryl Ely, Nathaniel Rochester, Mrs. John Miller Horton, Mrs. Edward C. Bull, James Sweeney, Hon. Thomas V. Welch, Dr. George S. Hobbie. COMMITTEE ON TABLETS. George D. Emerson, Chairman; Burt C. Hayes, Prof. T. B. Lovell, Hon. Herbert P. Bis sell, Nathaniel Rochester, Philip S. Smith, J. C. Hooker, Miss Ada M. Kenyon. 110 NIAGARA FRONTIER REPRESENTATIVES 1900-01-02 Buffalo Chapter, Sons of the American Revolution : Hon. W. Caryl Ely, Clarence M. Bushnell, Hon. Heisbert P. Bissell, Prof. Horace Briggs, Trueman G. Avery, Buffalo Association, Sons of the Revolution! George W. Comstock, William Y. Warren, Henry R. Howland, Col. Albert J. Meyer, Nathaniel Rochester. Buffalo Historical Sdciety: Frank H. Severance, James Sweeney, Dr. a. L. Benedict, George D. Emerson, Capt. Louis L. Babcock, ANDREVif LaNGDON. Society of the War of 1812: Dr. Joseph T. Cook, Sheldon T. Viele, Alexander W. Hoffman. Buffalo Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution: Mrs. C. C. Wyckoff, Mrs. Frank W. Abbott, Miss Ada M. Kenyon, Mrs. R. J. Sherman, Mrs. John Miller Horton Mrs. Mary N. Thompson. Children of the American Revolution: Mrs. Oscar L. Harries, Miss Edna E. Choate, Burt C. Hayes, Mrs. Edward C. Bull, Miss Christina M. Nuno, Jerome Fargo. Men's Club of Lewiston: Dr. George S. Hobbie, j. boardman scovell, Rev. J. W. Ross, Dr. T. a. Kerr, WiLLARD Hopkins, J. C. Hooker. Buffalo Association, Society of Colonial Wars: John M. Provoost, John W. Crafts, Fisher C. Atherton, Philip S. Smith, Drake Whitney, George A. Stringer. Niagara Frontier Historical Society: Hon. Peter A. Porter, Hon. George W. Wright, Hon. Thomas V. Welch, Willlam a. Philpott, Jr., Edward T. Williams, Prof. T. B. Lovell. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. Ill OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES 1902-03-04 TRUEMAN G. AVERY Chairman Mrs. JOHN MILLER HORTON Vice-Chairman GEORGE D. EMERSON Secretary PHILIP S. SMITH Treasurer COMMITTEE ON SITES. Frank H. Severance, Chairman; Philip S. Smith, Henry R. Howland, Mrs. Mary N. Thompson,* Mrs. Oscar L. Harries, Prof. Horace Briggs, Hon. Peter A. Porter, j. boardman scovell, a. w. hoffman, Mrs. Samuel S. Spaulding.! FINANCE COMMITTEE. George A. Stringer, Chairman; W. Caryl Ely, Nathaniel Rochester, Mrs. John Miller Horton, Mrs. Edward C. Bull, James Sweeney, Hon. Thomas V. Welch, Dr. Joseph T. Cook, Dr. George S. Hobbie. COMMITTEE ON TABLETS. George D. Emerson, Chairman; Burt C. Hayes, Prof. T. B. Lovell, Hon. Herbert P. Bissell, Nathaniel Rochester, Philip S. Smith, J. C. Hooker, Sheldon T. Viele, Miss Ada M. Kenyon. * Died November 24, ig02. t Appointed vice, Mrs. Thompson, deceased. 112 NIAGARA FRONTIER REPRESENTATIVES 1902-03-04 Buffalo Chapter, Sons of the American Revolution: Hon. W. Caryl Ely^ Clarence M. Bushnell, Hon. Herbert P. Bissell, Prof. Horace Briggs, Trueman G. Avery. O. P. LetchwortHj ■ Frank B. Steele, Henry J. Pierce. Buffalo Association, Sons of the Revolution: George W. Comstock, William Y. Warren, Henry R. Howland, Col. Albert J. Meyer, Nathaniel Rochester, Dr. G. Hunter Bartlett, Hon. T. Guilford Smith, Charles B. Wheeler. Buffalo Historical Society: Frank H. Severance, James Sweeney, Dr. a. L. Benedict, Capt. Louis L. Babcock, Andrew Langdon, G. Barrett Rich, John M. Provoost, Fisher C. Atherton. Society of the War of 1812: Dr. Joseph T. Cook, Sheldon T. Viele, Alexander W. Hoffman. Buffalo Association, Society of Colonial Wars: John W. Crafts, Philip S. Smith, Drake Whitney, George A. Stringer, Dr. Matthew D. Mann, Charles H. Williams, George D. Emerson. Buffalo Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution: Mrs. C. C. Wyckoff, Mbs. Frank W. Abboti Miss Ada M. Kenyon, Mrs. R. J. Sherman, Mrs. John Miller Horton, Mrs. Mary N. Thompson,! Mrs. Samuel S. Spaulding Mrs. Trueman G. Avery, Mrs. Richard W. Goode, Mrs. W. Caryl Ely. Children of the American Revolution: Mrs. Oscar L. Harries, Miss Edna E. Choate, Burt C. Hayes, Mrs. Edward C. Bull, Miss Christine M. Nuno, Jerome Fargo. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 113 REPRESENTATIVES, igo2-oz-OA-— Continued Men's Club of Lewiston: Dr. George S. Hobbie, j. boardman scovell, Rev. J. W. Ross, Dr. T. a. Kerr, WiLLARD Hopkins, J. C. Hooker, Edward D. Strickland, Dr. C. a. Shepard. Niagara Frontier Historical Society: Hon. Peter A. Porter, Hon. George W. Wright, Hon. Thomas V. WELCH,t William A. Philpott, Jr., Edward T. Williams^ Prof. T. B. Lovell, E. M. Clark, Dr. J. E. Gates. * Resigned November 13, 1902. t Died November 24, 1902. t Died October 20, 1903. OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS 1902-03-04 TRUEMAN G. AVERY Chairman Mrs. JOHN MILLER HORTON . ... Vice-Chairman GEORGE D. EMERSON Secretary PHILIP S. SMITH Treasurer BOARD OF DIRECTORS. Horace Briggs, Trueman G. Avery, Frank H. Severance, Henry R. Howland, Peter A. Porter, George A. Stringer, GfeEfflRGE D. Emerson, Philip S. Smith, Sheldon T. Viele, Nathaniel Rochester, Katharine Pratt Horton, Jeanie L. Harries, John C. Hooker, Mary N. Thompson,* W. Caryl Ely.! * Died November 24, 1902. t Elected vice Mrs. Mary N. Thompson, deceased. 114 NIAGARA FRONTIER OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES 1904-05 TRUEMAN G. AVERY President Mrs. JOHN MILLER HORTON Vice-President GEORGE D. EMERSON Secretary PHILIP S. SMITH Treasurer COMMITTEE ON SITES. Frank H. Severance, Chairman; Philip S. Smith, Prof. Horace Briggs, Mrs. John S. Chittenden, J. Boardman Scovell, Mrs. Samuel S. Spaulding, Henry R. Howland, Charles H. Williams, Mrs. Oscar L. Harries, Mrs. Arthur W. Austin, Hon. Peter A. Porter, A. W. Hoffman. FINANCE COMMITTEE. George A. Stringer, Chairman; Hon. W. Caryl Ely, Hon. George W. Wright, Mrs. John Miller Horton, Dr. Joseph T. Cook, James Sweeney, Charles R. Wilson, Nathaniel Rochester, Mrs. A. J. Wheeler, Mrs. Edward C. Bull, Henry A. Richmond, Dr. George S. Hobbie. COMMITTEE ON TABLETS. George D. Emerson, Chairman; Burt C. Hayes, John M. Provodst, Hon. Herbert P. Bissell, Samuel S. Spaulding, Prof. T. B. Lovell, Hon. T. Guilford Smith, J. C. Hooker, Mrs. George Wadsworth, Sheldon T. Viele, Mrs. Robert Fulton, Miss Ada M. Kenyon. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 115 REPRESENTATIVES 1904-05 Buffalo Chapter Sons of the American Revolution: Trueman G. Avery, Hon. Herbert P. Bissell, Prof. Horace Briggs, Clarence M. Bushnell, Hon. W. Caryl Ely, Ogden p. Letchworth, Henry J. Pierce, Frank B. Steele, Buffalo Chapter Sons of the Revolution: Dr. G. Hunter Bartlett, George W. Comstock, Henry R. Howland, Col. Albert J. Myer, Nathaniel Rochester, Hon. T. Guilford Smith, William Y. Warren, Charles B. Wheeler. Buffalo Historical Society: Fisher C. Atherton, Dr. a. L. Benedict, Major Louis L. Babcock, Andrew Langdon, John M. Provoost, Gen. G. Barrett Rich, Frank H. Severance, James Sweeney. Society of the War of 1812: Dr. Joseph T. Cook, Alexander W. Hoffman, Sheldon T. Viele. Buffalo Association Society of Colonial Wars: John W. Crafts, George D. Emerson, Dr. Matthew D. Mann, George A. Stringer, Philip S. Smith, Drake Whitney, Walter Devereux. Men's Club of Lewiston: Dr. George S. Hobbie, WiLLARD Hopkins, John C. Hooker, Dr. T. a. Kerr, Rev. J. W. Ross, Dr. C. a. Shepard, J. Boaedman Scovell, Edward D. Strickland. Buffalo Chapter Daughters of the American Revolution: Mrs. John Miller Horton, Mrs. Trueman G. Avery, Mrs. W. Caryl Ely, Mrs. Richard W. Goode, Miss Ada M. Kenyon, Mrs. R. J. Sherman, Mrs. Samuel S. Spaulding, Mrs. C. C. Wyckoff. Order of the Cincinnati: Charles R. Wilson, Charles H. Williams, Samuel S. Spaulding. 116 NIAGARA FRONTIER REPRESENTATIVES, 1904-05— Continued Daughters of the War of 1812: Mrs. a. J. Wheeler, Mrs. Robert Fulton, Mrs. John S. Chittenden, Miss Elizabeth C. Trott, Mrs. William Y. Warren. Niagara Frontier Historical Society: E. M. Clark Dr. J. E. Gates, Prof. Thomas B. Lovell, Hon. Peter A. Porter, William A. Philpott, Jr., Hon. George W. Wright, Edward T. Williams. R. A. Taylor, Walter McCullough, Children of the American Revolution: Mrs. Edward C. Bull, Miss Edna E. Choate, Jerome Fargo, Mrs. Oscar L. Harries, Burt C. Hayes, Miss Christine M. Nuno. Society of the MayAower Descendants: Mrs. J. E. Allard, Mrs. Arthur W. Austin, Hon. Henry A. Richmond, Mrs. George Wadsworth, Theodore B. Sheldon. OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS 1904-05 TRUEMAN G. AVERY . President Mrs. JOHN MILLER HC N Vice-President GEORGE D. EMERSON Secretary PHILIP S. ^SMITH Treasurer BOARD OF DIRECTORS. Horace Briggs, Trueman G. Avery, Frank H. Severance, Henry R. Howland, Peter A. Porter, George A. Stringer, George D. Emerson, * Deceased. Philip S. Smith, Sheldon T. Viele, Nathaniel Rochester, Katharine Pratt Horton, Jeanie L. Harries, John C. Hooker, W. Caryl Ely. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 117 TREASURER'S REPORTS 1902-03-04-05 Mr. Philip S. Smith, Treasurer of the Association, pre- sented the following reports: November 13, 1902. To the Members of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Asso- ciation: RECEIPTS. Dec 19, 1901 — Buffalo Chapter, Daughters of the Ameri- can Revolution $ 50.00 Feb. I, 1902 — Buffalo Chapter, Sons of the AmericaS Revolution 100.00 May 22, 1902 — Trueman G. Avery 5.00 May 22, 1902 — Peter A. Porter 5.00 May 22, 1902 — Philip S. Smith 5.00 May 24, 1902 — Sale of excursion tickets for La Salle ex- cursion train 10.00 Aug. S, 1902 — Buffalo Chapter, Children of the American Revolution 28.00 Aug. 5, 1902 — Buffalo Historical Society 40.00 Nov. II, 1902 — Buffalo Association, Sons of the Revolution 150.00 Total $ 393.00 DISBURSEMENTS. May 22, 1902 — George D. Emerson, Secretary, special train Buffalo to La Salle $ 50.00 Aug. 15, 1902 — C. E. Brinkworth, account tablets 100.00 Aug. 21, 1902 — ^Lila M. Fox, stenographic work 10.55 Nov. 12, 1902 — C. E. Brinkworth, account tablets 75-50 Nov. 12, ig02 — Lila M. Fox, stenographic work 18.78 Nov. 12, 1902 — Matthews-Northrup Co., printing 5.00 Total - $ 259.83 Receipts $ 393-00 Disbursements 259-83 Balance on hand $ I33-I7 (Signed) PHILIP S. SMITH, Treasurer Niagara Frontier Landmarks Ass'n. 118 NIAGARA FRONTIER December 4, 1903. I have the honor to submit herewith my report as Treas- urer of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association for the past year. I ^have received the following cash items : Mar. 12, 1903 — ^Donation from Philip S. Smith $ 12.10 Apr. II, 1903 — Donation from Buffalo Historical Society... 5.00 Aug. 3, 1903 — ^Donation from George D. Emerson 12.00 Donation from Philip S. Smith 2.35 Dec 3, ,1903 — Contribution from Buffalo Chapter Society of Colonial Wars 41.00 At the date of my last report, November 13, 1902, there was a balance on hand of $133.17; adding the balance and above cash items, we have a total of $205.62. The following disbursements have been made: Mar. 12, 1903 — Paid Lila M. Fox for stenographic work. .$ 6.85 Mar. 12, 1903 — Paid White-Evans-Penfold Co. for station- ery 5.25 July 17, 1903 — Paid Peter Paul Co. for programs 4.50 Aug. 3, 1903— Paid N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. for special train to Lewiston, June 20th i2;oo Aug. 3, 1903 — Paid American Express Co. charges on two tablets 2.3s Dec. 3, 1903 — Paid Henry-Bonnard Bronze Co. for tablet to mark the Court House site 125.00 Dec. 3, 1903 — Paid Peter Paul Co. for programs 4.25 Dec. 3, 1903 — Paid C. E. Brinkworth for stationery, photo- graphs, etc., in connection with tablet unveilings 19.25 Dec. 3, 1903 — Paid George D. Emerson for incidental ex- penses, postage, etc., defrayed by him. . . 10.00 Total $ 189.45 Subtracting the total disbursements from the total receipts, I have a balance left in my hands, as Treasurer, to the credit of the Association, of $16.17, which sum is now on deposit in the Manufacturers & Traders Bank, where the funds of the Association have been kept. As far as I know the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Asso- ciation has no debts outstanding and no unpaid bills are in LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 119 my hands. Besides the money contributions, there have been two contributions of tablets for which due credit should be given. The tablet dedicated at Lewiston, June 20, 1903, on the grounds of the Barton homestead, was a gift from Mrs. Albert J. Wheeler of this city, and it marks the site of the battery at the battle of Queenston Heights. The tab- let dedicated in this city on the 26th of September last, at the trolley railway power house on Niagara Street, was the gift of the International Railway Company, and it marks the site of Fort Tompkins. The patriotism, generosity and interest shown by Mrs. Wheeler and the railway corporation are to be highly com- mended, and they should have, and do have, the eartiest and sincere thanks of the Association, of its members, and undoubtedly of the community at large also, for what they have done. It remains to say that the society is greatly in need of, and would be greatly obliged for, donations of cash or tablets from individuals. It is greatly to be desired that the Buffalo chapters of the Sons of the Revolution, the Sons of the American Revo- lution, and the Society of the Colonial Wars, and the Daugh- ters of the Revolution, should communicate with, and, if possible, make arrangements with their respective parent general societies, for rebates upon dues annually paid in, which rebates, if they could be had by our Association, would provide us with a suitable and sufficient income each year. I may add that there has been some informal talk of two further donations of tablets, one by an individual and the other by a patriotic body, to mark historic sites in this vicin- ity. More definiteness concerning which than the above statement, it would perhaps be unbecoming to set down at this time and place in this report. All of which is respect- fully submitted. Dated, Buffalo, N. Y., December 4, 1903. (Signed) Philip S. Smith, Treasurer of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Ass'n. 120 NIAGARA FRONTIER December i6, 1904. To the Members of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Asso- ciation: I have the honor to submit herewith my report as Treas- urer of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association for the past year: I have received the following cash items : Dec. 7, 1903— Donation from Children of the American Revolution, Buffalo Chapter 100.00 Dec. 21, 1903 — Donation from Sons of the Revolution, Buf- falo Association 75-00 Jan. 7, 1904 — ^Donation from Daughters of American Rev- olution 100.00 Total contribution during the past year 275.00 In addition to this we opened the year with a balance on hand of 16.17 Adding which to the sum of the above contributions gives us a total of $ 291.17 We have had no expenses to the Association during the past year and I have paid no bills from the funds of the Association. I have, therefore, the honor to report that there is now in my hands, as Treasurer of the Niagara Fron- tier Landmarks Association the sum'of $291.17, which sum is on deposit to the credit of the Association in the Manufac- turers & Traders Bank of this city. Buffalo, December 16, 1904. Respectfully submitted, (Signed) Philip S. Smith, Treasurer. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. X21 November 8, 1905. To the Members of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Asso- ciation: I have the honor to submit herewith my report as Treas- urer of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association for the past year. I have received the following cash items : Dec. 20, 1904, donation from P. S. Smith, (this was not deposited, but was paid direct to Miss Jeffries) $4.25 Oct. 17, 1905, donation from George D. Emerson. 12.15 Making a total of $16.40 In addition to this we opened the year with a balance on hand of 291 . 17 Adding which to the sum of the above con- tribution gives us a total of $307.57 We have paid out during the year the following items: Dec 20, 1904, paid Miss D. M. Jeffries for type- writing work (this did not come out by check, but was paid directly in cash from donation of this date) $4-25 Aug. 31, 1905, paid C. E. Brinkworth for stationery and printing 10.25 Nov. I, 1905, paid C. E. Brinkworth for stationery and printing 16.00 $30.50 Oct. 17, 1905, paid out the following items : Bonnard Bronze Co., for work on court- house tablet $5-00 Express charges to and from New York on above tablet 2.70 Wooden box for tablet 70 Evans-Penfold Co., invitations for unveil- ing above tablet 3-75 12.15 This item of $12.15 was paid in cash from donation of this date and not by check. This gives a total of payments by the Association of $42.65 Total contributions $307-57 Total paid out 42.65 Net balance $264.92 123 NIAGARA FRONTIER I have therefore the honor to report that there is now in my hands as Treasurer of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association the sum of $264.92, which sum is on deposit to the credit of the Association in the Manufacturers and Traders National Bank of this city. Respectfully submitted, Philip S. Smith, Treasurer. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 133 REPORT OF THE COMMITTEE ON SITES December 26, 1900. The Committee on Sites, named at the general meeting held November 14th, reports as follows : To us was assigned the task of specifying spots of his- toric interest on the American frontier of the Niagara wor- thy of being marked by monument or tablet. , We have interpreted our field to extend from the south limits of Buffalo to Lake Ontario, including all sites within the present limits of the City of Buffalo, other cities and towns on the Niagara, and) the intervening country. It is advisable to discriminate between spots of purely local interest and those of wider significance. In view of the greater interest which attaches to those of the latter class, as many are here designated as possible, with the assurance of accuracy. Many spots of considerable local interest are not mentioned in this report; the aim being, however, to specify the most important. The method of our survey is geographical, not chronological. We begin with the south- ern limits of the field, and proceed northerly. There are, in the southern and eastern portions of Buf- falo, several sites known to students of Indian remains and ethnology ; it would not be inappropriate to mark these sites of burial places, mounds, battlefields, or camps ; but as they are prehistoric and of unassignable dates, consideration of them is not within our present province. In point of known events, South Buffalo is the oldest part of the present city. On Buffalo Creek, some three or four miles from its mouth, the first Seneca Indian villages were established during the Revolutionary War, refugees settl- ing there in 1779-80, after Sullivan's raid had destroyed their old homes in the Genesee Valley. In this neighborhood was built a council house, at which councils and treaties of 124 NIAGARA FRONTIER national importance were held. Associated with it are the names of Young King, Farmer's Brother, Red Jacket, and other Indian celebrities. Your committee knows at present of no dlata by which to fix the exact location of this council house. If its site should hereafter become known, the spot merits a memorial tablet. Of considerable local interest in this vicinity is the well- known site of the Seneca Mission Church, built 1826, aban- doned 1843, and gradually destroyed during succeeding years. Indian Church Street now runs through the old churchyard and near the site of the building. Near by were the original graves of Red Jacket and other chiefs, and of Mary Jamison. Their historic bones were long since removed to other resting places — Mary Jamison to Portage in 1874, the chiefs to Forest Lawn in 1884 and 1894; but the site still remains, somewhat encroached upon, it is true, but unobliterated as yet, the empty graves still shaded by fine large walnuts and oaks. The acquisition by the city of this little plot of historic ground, and its incorporation into the Park system, would seem the ideal way to preserve Its ancient landmarks from early obliteration. In any event, the site of the graves should be accurately marked. Of even greater interest is the Seneca Mission House on Buffam Street. Built prior to 1831, it is still in good preser- vation, with heavy hewn black walnut beams that bid fair to withstand the tooth of time for many a year to come. In this house, from 1831 to 1844, dwelt the Rev. Asher Wright, missionary to the Senecas, and his gifted and devoted wife. Here, in 1839, was set up the Mission Press, on which, in the Seneca language, from specially made type, were printed portions of the Scriptures, hymnals, spelling books, a Seneca lexicon — ^this, at least, was begun — and a newspaper, the "Mental Elevator," in the Seneca tongue. This report is not the place to dwell upon the importance of the work of Mr. and Mrs. Wright. The publication feature alone of their varied labors is remarkable enough, as scholars of Indian linguistics have abundantly testified, to merit com- memoration. It is suggested that a tablet or monument at LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 125 the Mission House might bear not only an inscription in memory of the Wrights, but could record briefly the fact that in the vicinity formerly stood the Council House, the exact site not being known. It is probable that the exact site of Red Jacket's log house, somewhere in this vicinity, can yet be ascertained. In the list of sites of merely local interest the first white settler's house will be expected. That distinction is awarded to the house erected by Cornelius Winne in 1789, on what is now the east side of Washington Street, at the head of Quay Street. More worthy of commemoration is the first schoolhouse, built in 1807-8 on the west side of Pearl Street, ju* below Swan. It was burned December 30, 1813. The site is now occupied by the Dun Building, which oflfers a substantial wall for the afHxing of a tablet. The first house for religious worship erected in Buffalo stood on the west side of Pearl Street, a short distance south of Niagara Street ; just how far south is, so far as your com- mittee's researches have discovered, a matter of doubt, but the weight of evidence indicates that the spot is now covered by Shea's Garden Theater. The church was begun Decem- ber 18, 1818, and was dedicated January 24, 1819. Prior to this date, religious worship was held in dwelling houses, and, by the Presbyterians, in a carpenter shop at the northeast comer of Main and Huron streets. The only dwelling house in Buffalo which was spared at the burning, December 30-31, 1813, had been built by Gama- liel St. John, beginning January 24, 1810, on Inner Lot 53 of the Holland Land Company^s survey. This was on the west side of Main Street, nearly midway between Mohawk and Court streets. The middle part of the Becker Building, occupied by the H. A. Meldrum Co., covers the site. At least one house now within the city limits antedates the burning of Buffalo. In 1813 it was too far from the vil- lage to share in the general destruction, and no interest worthy of our attention attaches to it because of that event. 126 NIAGARA FRONTIER The Public Library building offers a sightly wall for a tablet commemorative of the fact that approximately that site was occupied by the first court house in Niagara County, built 1810, burned 1813; and by the second court house, built 1817, abandoned March 11, 1876, and soon after demol- ished — Buffalo being the county seat of Niagara County until 1821, when Erie County was erected. The site that for over sixty years was the center for the administration of jus- tice on the American side of the Niagara may appropriately be marked for the edification of later generations. Lafayette Square may well contain a tablet to inform the public of the more notable events in its history. In front of the Eagle Tavern, west side of Main Street, now Nos. 418 and 420 — ^just south of Court Street — Gen. Lafayette was presented to the public by Gen. Porter, the public recep- tion resulting in the present name of the square. In this square, among other celebrities, at different times, Henrv Clay, Daniel Webster, and Kossuth, have spoken ; and here, in 1848, the National Free Soil party nominated Van Buren and Adams — the only national political convention ever held in Buffalo. The former home of Millard Fillmore, on Niagara Square, might suitably bear a plate to inform the stranger that here resided, after his retirement from oiBce, till his death in 1874, a President of the United States, to whom the country is indebted, among other things, for cheap postage, the enlargement of the National Capitol, and the Perry treaty which opened Japan to the world. No events in the history of Buffalo have had a greater effect upon her development than the first improvement of the harbor and the extension hither of the Erie Canal. The man who was chiefly instrumental in bringing about these events was Judge Samuel Wilkeson ; and two sites are par- ticularly associated with his memory; the entrance to the harbor which he helped to create, and the Wilkeson home- stead on Niagara Square. The Niagara River front, from the Terrace to Black Rock, has several sites of interest, especially in connection LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 137 with the War of 1812. There was a battery, which saw but little service, on the Terrace. Another overlooked the Niag- ara from the edge of the bluff at the foot of Vermont Street, the actual site utterly obliterated by the construction of the Erie Canal, but now overlooked from the Front, most nearly approached a short distance south of the memorial to the 13th U. S. Infantry. Still another battery was on the high bank just south of the foot of Massachusetts Street, and within the limits of the present Fort Porter. As in the case of the battery just mentioned, it is probable that the con- struction of the Erie Canal, and later of the railroad, left only empty air where formerly was this defensive work ; but the edge of the bluff, at the point indicated, is the Jiearest approach thereto, on the old level. No place in Buffalo com- mands a finer view ; a point of popular resort, a tablet at this point would be seen by thousands and add the historic to the present .scenic interest. The exact site of the stone keep of Fort Porter — a part of the walls of which are still standing, a few feet under the present parade ground — should not be lost ; appropriate, too, would be some permanent reminder of the barracks that, from 1838 up to the Mexican War, perhaps even later, stood on the tract bounded by Main, North, Delaware, and Allen streets, and filled a prominent part in the military and social life of Buffalo. Perhaps the point of greatest historic interest on the upper Niagara is the site of the old ferry, in use at least as early as Revolutionary times, and by means of which thou- sands of the first settlers in Michigan and the Middle West passed to their destination. This ferry was at the famous Black Rock, which gave its name to the village. The rock itself was destroyed in the construction of the Erie Canal. It was an outcrop of the local limestone, some 200 or 300 feet long, extending, a natural wharf, into the river at a point approximately opposite the south line of the street railway company's buildings, west side of Niagara Street below the junction of Front Avenue. The abandoned Fort Street marked the approach to it. 128 NIAGARA FRONTIER Fort Tompkins, otherwise Fort Adams, a defensive work of considerable importance during the War of 1812, occupied ground now covered by the southern portion of the street railway company's buildings, on the site above defined. . A third battery of the 1812 period, adjoined on the south the foot of Gull Street, most of the site being now occupied by a factory. A cannon, found here a few years ago, when excavations were made for the foundations of the factory, is now mounted in Lafayette Park. More important yet was the Sailors' Battery, at the south angle of the Niagara and the Scajaquada Creek. The site, for many recent years occupied by buildings of the Shepard Iron Works, is now bare, surrounded by a high fence, and forms part of the yard of a gas tank. It is the least acces- sible and most important of the batteries of that period in the limits of Buffalo. To the east of the present Niagara Street bridge, on the south bank of the Scajaquada, is the site of the old Black Rock shipyard. Here a part of Perry's fleet was fitted out for the battle of Lake Erie. Here, or on the Niagara River side, in 1818, was built the Walk-in-the- Water, the first steamboat on the lakes; and here were built many of the most famous steamboats that followed her, and many canal boats — of the old packet type — prior to 1840. Near by is the site of a blockhouse, built 1808. That neighborhood has abundance of historic association, none, however, of greater interest than the battle which was fought at the bridge over the Scajaquada, on August 3, 1814. Early in the morning of that day a force of British, under Lieut.-Col. Tucker of the 41st British Line, with the design of capturing Buffalo and destroying the stores, arms, and supplies there, attacked the American forces at Scajaquada Creek, at the bridge, a rod or so to the west of where Niag- ara Street now crosses the creek. The American forces were loosely entrenched on the south bank of the creek, and con- sisted of the First Battalion of the First Regiment, com- manded by Major Morgan, with a small number of scattered auxiliaries. The Americans had partially removed the road- LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 129 way of the bridge. The first assault of the British failed after severe fighting, and a second and very daring attempt was made by the British to repair the bridge under fire; this attempt also failed. After a short delay a third and final assault was made at the bridge, and also about 200 feet above the bridge, which, after more severe fighting, was fin- ally repulsed, and the British retreated to the Canadian side. The total number of men engaged on the British side was 1,200 and on the American side not more than 350. The conflict was sharp, bloody, and, on account of the disparity of numbers, especially creditable to the American forces, although very great gallantry was displayed by the British, especially in the second assault. This battle saved tfte sup- plies at Buffalo, disheartened the British, encouraged the Americans, and indirectly aided in the final victory at Fort Erie. It is, therefore, worthy in all respects of a proper com- memorative tablet. It is suggested that a tablet affixed to the present iron bridge might record the battle of Black Rock, with allusions to the Sailors' Battery on the one hand and the old shipyard and blockhouse on the other. But most storied in associations, of all spots on the river front in Buffalo, is the Porter House, below Ferry Street, the most historic building in the city. Erected in 181 6 by Gen. Peter B. Porter, it is today, not the oldest, but the best house of its age, in Buffalo. Gen. Porter occupied it until 1836, among his guests being Gen. Lafayette, John Quincy Adams, DeWitt Clinton, and other distinguished men, includ- ing Red Jacket, and every prominent Indian of the vicin- ity. Passing into the hands of Lewis F. Allen, it continued for many years a house of distinguished hospitality. Mr. Allen's guests included Henry Clay, Daniel Webster, Gen. Scott, Gen. Macomb, and others not less famous; and a member of his household for a time was his nephew, Grover Cleveland, Buffalo's second President of the United States. Shorn of much of its surrounding estate, first by the con- struction of the canal, then of the railroad, and later by sale of land for buildings, the house still stands by itself apart, the embodiment of more Niagara Frontier history than any 130 NIAGARA FRONTIER other structure in Buffalo. It gives a distinction to the city which no modem structure could supply. It should be pre- served. The observation is ventured, that the acquisition — or even the lease — of this house by one or more of our patri- otic societies, and the dedication of it to commemorative uses, would be, however unpractical, an ideal way of memorializ- ing, the place. About two blocks north of the Porter house, or one block beyond the building which was the Breckenridge Street church (the oldest building erected for a church now stand- ing in the city), is the scene of the heavy fighting in the first battle of Black Rock. On July ii, 1813, the British made their first attempt to capture Black Rock and Buffalo. Cols. Bishop and Warren, with 250 men, crossed the river, landed below Squaw Island, marched to the Navy Yard on the Sca- jaquada and occupied it before they were discovered. They burned the barracks and blockhouse there, and the barracks at Fort Tompkins. Maj. Adams, in command at Black Rock, sent to Buffalo for reinforcements. One hundred regulars, under Capt. Cummings, the same number of militia under Maj. Adams, thirty volunteers from Buffalo Plains, under Capt. Hull; Capt. Bull's company from Buffalo, and thirty Indians led by Farmer's Brother, met the enemy in line near Fort Tompkins, the present site of the Street Railway Com- pany's power house. After sharp fighting the English gave way, and retreated to their boats, the Americans pursuing; the heaviest fighting taking place just south of Auburn Ave- nue, near Mason Street. The English lost about lob killed, wounded, and missing, and fifteen prisoners. The American loss was three killed and five wounded, among the latter being the Seneca chief Young King. This engagement might be mentioned on a tablet commemorative of Fort Tompkins, placed in the wall of the Street Railway Company's building ; or at the Porter house, which stands on ground fought over. Mason Street, mentioned above,, is an obscure, picturesque little street one block long, from Breckenridge to Auburn, between Niagara Street and the New York Central Railroad. Before leaving Buffalo, it may be remarked that although LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. :81 the business of this report is with sites' and not with people, yet any project of historic commemoration in Buffalo would be conspicuously incomplete which gave no thought to Jos- eph Ellicott. The generous tract of land which he reserved for himself was bounded by Eagle, Swan, and Main streets, running east to what is now Jefferson Street. The name of the founder of the city is preserved to us in Ellicott Square, the office building on a part of the above-named tract; and in the name of a street. The Goodrich house, built in 1823 or '24, near the northeast corner of Main and High streets, was begun by Mr. Ellicott, and he occupied it a short time in 1825. Removed by Mr. John C. Glenny, nearly twenty years ago, to Amherst Street, it still stands there, 'one of Buffalo's most beautiful houses, and the only one in the city directly associated with the founder of Buffalo. Ellicott Square makes the name familiar; upon it, or within it, an inscription might suitably be placed. The ideal memorial, in addition thereto, would be a statue of Joseph Ellicott in the center of the court. Before leaving Buffalo and passing down the river it is well to note that Buffalo Plains, especially that portion of ic known as Flint Hill, has many associations connected with the War of 1812. The original graves of the soldiers now buried in the well-marked grave in the Park meadow, were not far from the banks of the Scajaquada, on the old Gran- ger place. The Buffalo Historical Society has already placed a cannon, suitably inscribed and protected, at the old soldiers' burying ground on Eleven Mile Creek, near Williamsville. If this organization choose to extend its survey as far as that village, it should mark the Evans house, said to have been built — in its oldest portion — in 1797, and generally regarded as the oldest house in Erie County. It was used by Gen. Winfield Scott as headquarters for a time during the War of 1812; prior to 1823 it was a tavern; was deeded to Lewis Ellicott Evans, December 26, 1823, and is still owned by the Evans family. Passing north along the Niagai^, there is nothing that demands our attention at the Tonawandas. The first site of 132 NIAGARA FRONTIER Maj. Noah's Ararat, a refuge city for the Jews, is well Icnown and might be marked for the edification of the curi- ous. Your committee says "first" site. The reason thereof is apparent to anyone familiar with Lewis F. Allen's enter- tiaining history of the matter, wherein he tells of the peripa- tetic monument which he, and not Maj. Noah, built at • Whitehaven, opposite Tonawanda. One other site on Grand Island may be mentioned here — Burnt Ship Bay, at the northern end, where, in 1759, after the loss of Fort Niagara, the French burned and sunk two of their vessels, to prevent them from falling into the hands of the British. Of all the historic sites on the Niagara, first in popular interest is the spot where La Salle, in 1679, built the Griffon, the first vessel, other than a bark canoe, to navigate the upper lakes. This is on the eastern bank of the arm of the river known as the Little Niagara, about opposite the middle of Cayuga Island', a short distance south of the mouth of Ca- yuga Creek. Approximately on the same spot, now on the Angevine farm, the United States, about 1804, established a shipyard, where a vessel was built and others were repaired for some years. Happily, the topography of the spot can- not have suffered much change through the lapse of years. A monument on the spot will be near much-traveled high- ways, and plainly visible from the windows of passing trol- ley car or railway train. From this point northerly to Lake Ontario, historic sites not only abound, but relate, many of them, to a period whose history is not shared by Buffalo ; the period of French occu- ,pancy, from 1678 — one may say, from 1626, thus including the visits of the first white men known to have reached our river — ^to 1759. The same points, in many cases, are asso- ciated successively with British and American domination. The so-called Tunnel or New Factory district, on the southern edge of the city of Niagara Falls, embraces sev- eral points that demand attention. First — Schlosser dock, where, about 1816, was built a storehouse by Porter, Barton & Co., it being the upper end LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 133 of the new portage from Lewiston, and the great shipping point above the Falls for a vast amount of freight to and from the West. There are two sites on the American shore especially associated with the Patriot War of 1837. One is the spot in Breckenridge Street, Buffalo— in front of the old church — where Gen. Winfield Scott planted his cannon ; the other, and more important, this old dock. Here it was, on the night of December 29, 1837, that the British seized the "Caroline" — one man being killed on the dock in the fray — towed her into the stream, set fire to her and sent her blaz- ing toward the Falls. This affair, which threatened to involve the United States and Great Britain in another war, can most appropriately be marked on the site of the did dock. Another site to note in this connection is the site of Mack- enzie's camp on Navy Island. Second — ^A short distance below the site of the old dock is the site of Fort Schlosser, built by the British in 1760. Third — Nearer yet to the Falls, the site of Fort Little Niagara, built in 1759. Fourth — Near this, the old stone chimney, an ideal land- mark as it stands, but threatened with destruction. It was built by the French, as a part of their barracks, about 1750. Ten years later, the French buildings being destroyed, the English attached to the chimney a large dwelling, using a framework which the French had some time before prepared for a chapel at Fort Niagara. This house, later known as Steadman's, was burned in 1813, the chimney being once more left, as a monument to the vicissitudes of time. On the present Portage road, a quarter of a mile or so from the river, can still be traced the outlines of one of the blockhouses erected in 1764 by Capt. John Montressor. It was the last of several built by him to protect the road for the passage of Bradstreet's army. Near the upper end of the State Reservation is the site of Frenchman's Landing, the upper end of the old Indian trail about the Falls', and the termination of the earliest por- tage. Here, about 1745, a blockhouse and storehouse were erected by the French. 184 NIAGARA FRONTIER Within the bounds of the State Reservation, although interesting associations attach to many points, there is not a site known to possess particular historic significance. The establishment of the Reservation, as a park free to the world, is the most significant event that has happened there. A tablet, recording the names of those chiefly interested in bringing about that consummation, and the date when it was opened free to the world — ^July 15, 1885 — erected at a sightly point in the Park, would add to the gratification of visitors. For this, the cooperation of the Park Commissioners should be enlisted. A short distance north from the northerly boundary of the Reservation, is the site of the Indian Laddter of days before settlement. It was a tall cedar, with branches lopped off about a foot from the trunk, fastened to the face of the cliff. By this means, Indians and early white visitors descended to the water below. Midway on the road to Lewiston are Bloody Run and the Devil's Hole, the scene of the massacre of September, 1763. Here the Senecas ambushed a British supply train, on the first return journey over the reconstructed portage road from Fort Schlosser to Fort Niagara, only three of about 100 men escaping. A little farther north, the same Indians ambushed a British relieving force of two com- panies, hastening up from the site of Lewiston, only eight escaping the second slaughter. A blockhouse was built by Montressor, in 1764, on the north sidfe of the Run, near the edge of the cliff. The present trolley line runs within a few feet of it. In this connection a word may be added regarding some points to which historic associations are, as we believe, erroneously imputed. In this class belong the cave and so-called Council Rock in the Devil's Hole glen ; and Hen- nepin's Point, in the State Reservation. The edge of the escarpment or "mountain" overlooking Lewiston has many associations, some of them the most important in our frontier history. This was the last of Father Hennepin's "three mountains," up which were toil- LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. X85 fully carried the anchors and cordage for the Griffon. Here is the site of the first of the blockhouses which Montressor built in 1764. Here was the upper end of the incline for hoisting goods from the river below — which may be regarded as the first railroad in America — ^and here is the site of the garrisoned storehouses built by the French in 175 1. Here, too, in 1812, was built the earthwork known as Fort Gray. Passing down the mountain, we come, on the Lewiston plateau, to the site of Joncaire's cabin, built 1719, soon enlarged to a fort called "Magazin Royal," France's first permanent location on the river, which endured for mors than a year, and through which was obtained permission to build what became Fort Niagara. Near it were Hennepin's Landing, and the cabin which he built in 1678; and very near are the sites of the small fort built by the British about 1764; of the lower end of the old incline — the actual site obliterated by subsequent works, latest of them being the construction of the new bridge ; of the wharves built by the British about 1764; of the storehouses for goods in transit, which were built by the French in 1751, and maintained with increased garrisons by the British from 1759 to 1764; and the approach to the old Lewiston Ferry. On the height east of Lewiston is the Tuscarora Reser- vation, the home of the first settlers on the Holland Pur- chase — a part of the Tuscarora tribe, who settled here in 1780, a spot with many associations of Revolutionary and pioneer days. Near by, below the mountain, are the sites of Gen. Van Rensselaer's camp, the first military camp on this frontier during the War of 1812, and of "Brant's church," built about 1780 on the Ridge road ; the first build- ing on the frontier, outside of Fort Niagara, used as a Prot- estant church. Around it was the village of the Mohawks, who dwelt here during the "hold-over" period. On the hill above the Lewiston Ferry landing, right in front of the Barton homestead, is the site where Col. Win- field Scott planted the battery which protected the Ameri- 136 NIAGARA FRONTIER can troops in their first invasion of Canada on the morning of October 13, 1812. On the river bank, between Lewiston and Youngstown, are the well-known Five Mile Meadows, where on the night of December 18, 1813, the British landed for their attack on Fort Niagara, which they captured and followed up with the devastation of the whole American frontier. A little farther along, we come to La Belle Famille, where, in 1759, Sir William Johnson routed the French force from the West which was hastening to relieve Fort Niagara. A portion of this site is now included in the grounds of Mr. O. P. Letchworth. Within the present limits of Youngstown, on the shore, was the Salt Battery, a principal point in the line of defen- sive outworks for Fort Niagara during the War of 1812. We have now arrived at Fort Niagara, the most historic spot on the river ; with more history of importance than all the rest of the frontier put together. It cannot be ade- quately indicated, even, in this report. The following brief syllabus must suffice: Here is the presumptive site of La Salle's house, built 1669, burnt by the Senecas 1675 ; here, in 1679, La Salle marked out and built Fort Conti ; here was Fort de Denon- ville, built 1687, abandoned 1688; here still standis the "cas- tle," the foundations of which were laid in 1725, the oldest masonry on the frontier. From this building, enlarged and modified from time to time, first the French and then the English, up to 1796, held sway from Albany westward, over a vast wilderness empire. Here still stand the French bar- racks, built about 1750; the magazine, built 1754, coming into wide fame in 1826, from the incarceration therein of William Morgan of anti-Masonic fame ; the bakehouse, built 1762 ; and two blockhouses, antedating the Revolution, built respectively in 1771 and 1773, the best specimens of their style of architecture in America. Here, too, is the site, believed to have been lately determined, of the grave of Gen. Prideaux, killed in the siege of July, 1759; and of the old chapel. It is desirable that Government permission be LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 187 secured in order that excavations may be made. Federal cooperation should also be enlisted in the erection of tablets or monuments on the fort reservation. East of the fort may still be seen the British parallels built for the siege of 1759. And four miles to the eastward, on the shore of Lake Ontario, our site-hunting tour ends at Prideaux's Landing, where, in 1759, landed the army that was to capture Fort Niagara, and thus aid materially in end- ing the rule of France in the New World. It is not the purpose of this association of societies, and therefore no part of the duty of your committee, to desig- nate historic sites on the Canadian side of the Niagara. But as the cooperation of our friends across the bortler has already been asked! in the good work — in which, by the way, they long since made good beginning — and for the sake of approximate completeness, the following list of important sites on the Canadian side is appended : Fort Erie, built by Montressor in 1764; built again, 1778; rebuilt in 1790, again in 1791, and a fourth time in 1807, though none of the latter times in the exact former location. A modem association with this vicinity was the battle of Ridgeway, in the Fenian invasion of 1866. Well known, near the fort, are the sites of three British siege works and a line of earthworks, protected by abattis, extending inland for nearly half a mile, and further protected by two block- houses of the 1812 period. Passing down the river, we come to the battlefield of Chippawa, the "tete du pont" battery of 1812, on Chippawa Creek, and the site of Fort Chippawa, built about 1790. The great battle of Lundy's Lane — Bridge- water or Niagara — is already commemorated by an observa- tory overlooking the historic and well-cared-for burying- ground. The site of the battle of Queenston Heights is marked by the splendid monument to Gen. Brock; ade- quately marked, too, is the spot where he was killed at the foot of the slope. On the heights, near the great monument, may still be traced the outlines of Fort Drummond, and on the very edge of the cliff the redan battery of their period. 138 NIAGARA FRONTIER In Queenston still stands the house in which, was printed the first newspaper published in Upper Canada, Below, on the river bank, is the site of Vrooman's battery, of the War of 1812. A short distance above the old town of Niagara, are the remains of Fort George, built 1796, enlarged' later and playing a most important part during the War of 1812. In a bastion of this fort, it will be remembered. Gen. Brock was first buried. The town of Niagara is full of historic walls and places. Among the oldi buildings are Navy Hall, not now on its original site, built 1792, in which was held the first session of the first Parliament of Upper Canada. Still standing, too, are the old barracks used by Butler's Rangers during the Revolutionary period. Fort Missis- sauga, at the angle of lake and river, was built by the British in 1814. The old lighthouse, and the British battery at Montreal Point, built 1759, may complete the rough list, which is only, intended to show how rich in historic sites is the Canadian side of the Niagara. Our survey of the whole field suggests the following sites as most worthy of the first attention of the association, others to be taken up from time to time as may be found feasible. First, the shipyard of the Griffon; in Buffalo, the sites of the early courthouses, the St. John house, the first school- house, and the Fillmore house; all located on much fre- quented thoroughfares. The bridge at Black Rock, the Por- ter house, and the site of Fort Tompkins, are of at least equal importance with the Buffalo group just named. As the work progresses the old Mission House should receive early attention. Below Niagara Falls, the Devil's Hole should be one of the first to be marked. Two inscriptions are suggested for it: one to be placed on the bank above, at the exact scene of the attack; the other below, at the Gorge Road station leading up into the glen ; for this has become an approach to the place for thousands of tourists who do not go thither by the upper road; and a point at Lewiston commemorating the various sites directly adja- cent thereto and noted above. The old chimney above the Reservation is the best landmark for its site that could be z o c w m a o c H LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 189 devised. A protecting railing and suitably inscribed tablet affixed thereon, are suggestions which, with this report as a whole, are respectfully submitted. Frank H. Severance, Chairman, Buffalo Historical Society. Peter A. Porter, Niagara Frontier Historical Society. Henry R. Rowland, Sons of the Revolution, Philip S. Smith, Society of Colonial Wars. Horace Briggs, Sons of the American Revolution. Mrs. Mary N. Thompson, Daughters of the American Revolution. Mrs. Oscar L. Harries, Children of the American Revolution. A. W. Hoffman, Society of the War of 1812. J. BOARDMAN SCOVELL, Men's Club of Lewiston. 140 NIAGARA FRONTIER REPORT OF EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE 1902 November 13, 1902. To the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association: Ladies and Gentlemen — Pursuant to the by-laws of this organization, the Executive Committee is made up of the officers of the Association and the chairmen of the sev- eral standing committees, and as such we beg leave to sub- mit the following report : In addition to the general meetings of the Association a number of meetings of the Executive Committee have been held, at which details for carrying out the plans adopted at the general meetings have been perfected. Under the auspices of our society five tablets have been placed in posi- tion commemorating sites and events suggested by the Com- mittee on Sites in their interesting and valuable report. These tablets were erected and dedicatory exercises held as follows : May 24, igo2 — ^At the Angevine farm, near La Salle, Niagara County, marking the ship yard, where in May, 1679, was launched the "Griffon," the first vessel to sail the upper lakes. July 26, 1902 — On the H. A. Meldrum store, Main Street, Buffalo, N. Y., commemorating the St. John house, the only dwelling spared by the British at the burning of Buffalo, December 30, 1813. August 2, 1902 — On the Niagara Street bridge, over Sca- jaquada Creek, Buffalo, where on August 3, 1814, was fought the battle of Black Rock. September 13, 1902 — ^At the Devil'-s Hole, on the Niagara Gorge railroad, where, September 14, 1763, occurred the Devil's Hole massacre. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 141 October ii, 1902— On the R. G. Dun building, Bufifalo, the site of the first schoolhouse built in Buffalo, of date 1807-8, and destroyed at the burning of Buffalo, December 30, 1813. The tablet and boulder on the Angevine farm were donated to the Association by the Niagara Frontier His- torical Society, and we are indebted to the Niagara Gorge Railroad Company for the one at the Devil's Hole. Mr. Jackson Angevine generously transferred to the Association eight feet square of ground covered by the Griffon tablet and boulder. At the unveiling of each of the tablets suitable exercises were held and our obligations are due to the followitig per- sons for historical addresses : Professor Thomas Bailey Lovell and Herbert P. Bissell, Esq., at La Salle ; Professor Horace Briggs at the St. John house; George D. Emerson and the Hon. Peter A. Porter at the Scajaquada Creek bridge ; Professor Arthur Detmers and Albert E. Jones at the Devil's Hole, and the Hon. Charles R. Skinner, Professor Henry P. Emerson and Mas- ter George Tilden Coleman at the pioneer school house. Devotional exercises were conducted by the following clergymen : Rev. Luke A. Grace, C. M., Rev. John C. Ward and the Rev. E, H. Dickinson. Whenever practicable, the national song "America" was sung by those present, Hon. George A. Lewis and Frederick Howard, Esq., kindly giv- ing their services as leaders. Upon one occasion Mr. George A. Stringer presided and at the last one the Hon. T, Guil- ford Smith. Charles W. Wilcox, Esq., of Niagara Falls, furnished an appropriate poem at the La Salle ceremonies. In addition to those already named, the Association is indebted to the following parties for courtesies of various kinds, at the several occasions upon which tablets were unveiled and a proper acknowledgement was given at the time: Jackson Angevine and his family, H. A. Meldrum, E. H. Farnsworth, Herbert P. Bissell, Vice-President of the Niag- ara Gorge Railroad; E. E. Nicklis, Superintendent of the 142 NIAGARA FRONTIER same road; John J. McWilliams, Edward L. Brady, Col. Francis G. Ward, Commissioner of Public Works ; John G. Wickser,' John H. Smith and George L. Stearns, Superin- tendent. We feel, however, that a very large measure of gratitude is due the press of Buffalo for the very friendly spirit in which the work of our Association has been treated. With- out exception they have been most generous, not only in space given, but in setting forth in a complete and satisfac- tory manner what our organization has done and is doing and what it expects to do in the future. Recognizing, as we do, in the press one of the great up-builders of modern civili- zation, and feeling on our part that our work is a most worthy one, we cannot express our gratification in too strong terms for the great aid we have received from that source. Our citizens generally have been friendly in their attitude towards the Association, the only comment made, as a rule, being that it is strange the work was not undertaken sooner. In selecting persons for unveiling the tablets, we have endeavored to preserve the historical associations connected with the several events and to name those who by family ties or for other reasons were connected directly or indi- rectly with the event or site commemorated. In this we consider we have been quite successful. Our financial exhibit is very satisfactory. Enough money has been contributed to meet all obligations incurred and leave a handsome margin with which to commence the next year's work. For the details we beg to refer you to the report of the Treasurer. The following places or sites have been listed for marking as soon as the weather will permit, and we recommend that the Committee on Tablets be instructed to proceed in the order named in placing tablets or monuments pursuant to the general plan of our Association: The old Seneca Mission House in Buflfam Street; the Library building, corner of Washington and Clinton streets, where originally was the first court house of Erie and Niag- LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 143 ara counties, and near the corner of Washington and Quay streets, the site of the first house erected in Buffalo. Cor- respondence should also be opened with the War Depart- ment relative to visiting and marking the several points at Fort Niagara, the most prolific in places of interest of any one spot on the Niagara frontier. Then as fast as time and funds will permit, proceed with the other sites named by the committee in their report. One other contribution to the work in which we are engaged, while not a donation to our Association, nor even in the exact line on which we have thus far proceeded (namely, the marking of sites), but based on the higher plane of preserving the historic structures of a by-gfcne age (to which in dUe time we ourselves hope to turn our atten- tion), is deserving of mention. The old Fort Schlosser chimney, so-called, the oldest piece of perfect masonry on the entire frontier and ante- dated only by the foundations of the castle at Fort Niagara, having been built in 1750, stood on the lands of the Niagara Falls Power Company. When, last summer, its location was required for a manu- facturing site, that company most generously, at its own and that a large expense, had it taken down, its surface stones having been carefully marked, and reerected it in perfect fac- simile, on a site that is in a street which is owned by the com- pany, and where it will be safe from demolition for all time ; and that location is not over 150 feet from its original one. The special thanks of the Landmarks Association should be extended to the Niagara Falls Power Company, for thus preserving the most historic landmark of the central portion of the American Niagara Frontier. In conclusion, we congratulate you upon the success of our joint efforts to preserve the identity of historic sites along the Niagara Frontier. With no expectancy of reward save only that inner satisfaction which arises from the per- formance of a patriotic duty you have cheerfully borne your part. If the performance of that duty has created a larger 144 NIAGARA FRONTIER interest in local history and a more profound respect for the energy, the toils and the heroism of the early comers to our border line, our labors will be richly rewarded. Trueman G. Avery, Mrs. John Miller Horton, George D. Emerson, Philip S. Smith, George A. Stringer, Frank H. Severance, Executive Committee. REPORT OF EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE 1903 December 4, 1903. To the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association: Ladies and Gentlemen — Since our annual meeting in November, 1902, two members of the Landmarks Associa- tion have died, viz, Mrs. Mary N. Thompson of Buffalo, N. Y., and the Hon. Thomas V. Welch of Niagara Falls, N. Y. Mrs. Thompson was a representative from the Daughters of the American Revolution and died in this city, November 24, 1902. Mr. Welch was a representative from the Niagara Frontier Historical Society and died at Niagara Falls, Octo- ber 20th of the present year. Both were well and widely known, universally esteemed and had long taken an active part in matters relating to the Niagara Frontier. Mrs. F. W. Abbott, in November, 1902, sent in her resig- nation as a member of the Association and a representative from the Daughters of the American Revolution. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 145 At the last annual meeting a resolution was adopted authorizing each president or regent of a society represented in the Association to appoint, if he or she should so elect, two additional representatives from such society in the Fron- tier Landmarks Association. Under this resolution, and also to fill vacancies, the following persons have been named as members of the Association : O. P. Letchworth, E. M. Clark, G. Hunter Bartlett, Dr. J. E. Bates, T. Guilford Smith, Charles H. Williams, Edward D. Strickland, Dr. Matthew D. Mann, G. Barrett Rich, Mrs. W. Caryl Ely, * Frank B. Steele, Mrs. Samuel S. Spaulding, Henry J. Pierce, Mrs. Trueman G. Avery, Mrs. Richard W. Goode. At a meeting of the directors of the Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association, incorporated, held February 7, 1903, all these individuals were duly elected members of the incor- poration, as well as all of the original members of the Asso- ciation who did not sign the articles of incorporation. Charles B. Wheeler becomes a member of the Association ex-officio, having been elected president of the Buffalo Asso- ciation, Sons of the Revolution, but the vacancy caused by the death of the Hon. Thomas V. Welch has not been filled. The balance of the membership continues the same. The Association has been duly incorporated under the laws of the State of New York with a properly constituted board of directors. A meeting of the board was held Decem- ber 9, 1902, at which time the present officers of the Asso- ciation were duly elected as officers of the incorporation. This policy, we believe, should be continued for the present at least and thus avoid any duplication of officers or dif- ferent officers -for the Association and the incorporation. Two tablets have been placed in position under the aus- pices of the Association during the past season. One at Lewiston on the spot where Gen. Scott stationed a battery of light artillery at the opening of the battle of Queenston, 146 NIAGARA FRONTIER October 13, 1812; and one on the International Railway buildings in this city, Niagara Street, opposite School Street, marking the site of Fort Tompkins, a large and important fortification of the War of 1812. The Scott battery tablet was presented by Mrs. Kate Barton Wheeler, a grand- daughter of Maj. Benjamin Barton, U. S. A., who owned and occupied the grounds, in which the tablet was placed, at the time and previous to the War of 1812. The Foit Tompkins tablet was the gift of the International Railway Company through its President, Hon. W. Caryl Ely. Appropriate exercises were held at the unveiling of these two tablets, those participating being the Hon. Peter A. Por- ter, Frank H. Severance, Esq., Hon. W. Caryl Ely, Mrs. John Miller Horton, Rev. Joshua Cook, Rev. J. W. Ross, Miss Katherine Wheeler, Miss Mary Wheeler, Miss Marian Ely, Rev. George G. Merrill, Trueman G. Avery, Esq., Fred- erick Howard, Esq., J. Boardman Scovell, Esq., and George D. Emerson. For its financial condition reference is made to the report of the Treasurer of the Association, Philip S. Smith, which is herewith presented. The smallness of the balance of funds on hand at the present time constrains your committee to announce that it will be necessary during the coming yeas to ask for contributions to continue the work so happily carried on during the past two years. Having thus briefly rehearsed the work of the Asso- ciation since its last annual meeting, it may not be inap- propriate to outline some, at least, of the expected accom- plishments of the coming twelve months. One tablet has been procured and paid for by the Asso- ciation, and it has been a great disappointment not to have unveiled it during the present year. It is to be placed on the Library building, comer of Washington Street and Broadway, and commemorates the first court house of Erie and Niagara counties. A number of petty delays occurred in connection with this tablet, perhaps not necessary to re- capitulate here, until the season for outdoor exercises had passed, and we reluctantly postponed its dedication until warm weather in the spring, when it will be one of the first LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 147 tablets to be unveiled. The Children of the American Revo- lution have raised funds for a tablet to commemorate the old Seneca Mission House on Buifam Street, and as this should be considered in connection with the project of hav- ing what now remains of the Indian cemetery grounds on the same street made a .part of the park system of Buffalo, which cannot be consummated for some months yet, it was not deemed wise to take any action regarding this tablet during the past year. We expect, however, to have both matters adjusted in the early spring. We have also to acknowledge the courtesy of another friend of the Associa- tion, Mr. O. P. Letchworth, in tendering a memorial for one of the most important events in all our frontier tiistory ; viz., the battle of July 24, 1759, which was followed the next morning by the surrender of Fort Niagara to the Brit- ish, ending French power in this part of the new world. Mr. Letchworth's grounds near Youngstown cover a portion of the battle field, and it is quite probable that the next anni- versary of the battle will witness the dedication of a suitable memorial. Other projects also demand our attention, among which may be named the proposed Military Park at Fort Niagara, the marking of historic points within the fort itself, a con- tinuation of the movement to have the Indian cemetery grounds on .Buffam Street made a part of the city's park system, and other important movements, but our success thus far leads to the flattering hope that as fast as time and means will permit, and proper attention can be taken from necessary duties to attend to these, that they will all be brought to a successful issue. Trueman G. Avery, Mrs. John Miller Horton, George D. Emerson, Philip S. Smith, George A. Stringer, Frank H. Severance. Executive Committee. INDEX. Adams, Fort, at Buffalo, 87 ; history, 93. Adams, Major, at Fort Tompkins, 95. American Revolution, sons of the, representatives, 110-112-115; daughters of the, representatives, 110-112-115; children of the, representatives, lia-112-115. Angevine, children, decorate tablet, 25; farm and residence, 2-4; Jackson, donation, 6. Association, Niagara Frontier Landmarks, organization, 1-2-3; offi- cers, 2-3; officers and committees, 109-111-114; officers and direc- tors, 113-116; representatives, 110-112-113-115-116. Austin, Benjamin H., attorney-at-law, 102. Avery, Trueman G., elected president, 2-3; at Griffon tablet cere- monies, 4; at Black Rock, 32; at Lewiston, 74. Babcock, George R., attorney-at-law, 102. Bancroft, George, extract from writings, 16. Barker, George, Supreme Court judge, 98-101. Barker, Zenas, chairman of meeting for first school house, 67-70. Bass, Lyman K., attorney-at-law, 102. Barton-Wheeler, tablet, 72-73-74 ; mansion at Lewiston, 72-73 ; cere- monies. 74. Barton, Benjamin, residence, 76-80. Bennett, Philander, County judge, 98. Bird, Miss Grace E., unveils battle of Black Rock tablet, 32. Bird, William A., Jr., and Cyrus Remington, Masters, decorate bat- tle of Black Rock tablet, 32. Bishop, Colonel, attacks Black Rock, 94-95. Bissell, Hon. Herbert P., address at Griffon tablet ceremonies, 21 ; presents Devil's Hole tablet, 45 ; address at Court House tablet exercises, 98. Blade Rock, battle of, tablet, 32 ; address by George D. Emerson, 33 ; village of, 34-94. Blakeslee, Colonel, services, 28. Bowen, Dennis, attorney-at-law, 102. Brant, John, at battle of Queenston Heights, 85. Briggs, Prof. Horace, address St. John House, 27. Brown, Major General, army in Canada, 35. Bryant, William C, attorney-at-law, 102. Buffalo, first school house, tablet, 66; history of, 67; ceremonies at unveiling, 67-71. Buffalo Historical Society, representatives, 110-112-115. Buffalo, village of, 34. 150 NIAGARA FRONTIER Bull, Captain, at Fort Tompkins, pS- Chapin, Colonel, services, 28-29. Chrystie, Colonel, at battle of Queenston Heights, 84. Cleveland, Grover, President, 102. Clinton, George W., Superior Court judge, 98-101. Coleman, Master George Tilden, address at the school house tablet ceremonies, 67-70. Colonial Wars, society of, representatives, 110-112-115. Commercial development of the west, address by Hon. Herbert P. Bissell, 21. Committee on sites, report, 123. Cook, Bates, comptroller and congressman, 105. Cook, Rev. Joshua, officiates at Lewiston, 74. County judges, list of, 98. Court House tablet, ceremonies, 97; inscription, 99. Cromley, Hon. Charles E., address at court house tablet ceremonies, 98. Daniels, Charles, Supreme Court judge, 98. Daughters of the War of 1812, representatives, 116. Davis, Noah, Supreme Court judge, loi. Detmers, Prof. Arthur, address at Devil's Hole tablet exercises, 47. Devil's Hole, tablet, 43; programme of exercises, 43; massacre, 49- 57-58-59-61-65; ceremonies, 55-56. Efner, E. D., services, 28. Ely, Miss Marion, unveils Fort Tompkins tablet, 88. Ely, Hon. W. Caryl, resolution, i ; presents tablet, 87-88-90. Emerson, George D., elected secretary, 2-3; address at Griffon tab- let ceremonies, 7; battle of Black Rock address, 33; accepting Devil's Hole tablet, 46 ; accepting Barton- Wheeler tablet, 74-81 ; accepting Fort Tompkins tablet, 88-91. Emerson, Mrs. George D., unveils Court House tablet, 99. Emerson, Prof. Henry P., at school house tablet ceremonies, 67-70. Erie county, erected, 105. Erie county bar, prominent members, 102. Executive Committee, reports, 140-144. Farmer's Brother, at battle of Fort Tompkins, 95. Fillmore, Millard, President, 102. Finance Committee, 109-1 ii-i 14. Fiske, John, historian, 16. Folsom, Oscar, attorney-at-law, 102. Foster, Elijah, services, 28. Ganson, John, attorney-at-law, 102. Gardner, Miss Nancy Strong, unveils St. John House tablet, 26. Genesee county, territory of, 105. Gillett, Joshua, appointed on committee, 70. Grace, Rev. Luke A., officiates at Griffon tablet ceremonies, 5-25. Gray, Fort, ramparts, 77-78. Griffon, anniversary, 2; shipyard and tablet, 4. Grosvenor, Seth, services, 28. Grover, Martin, Supreme Court judge, 98-101. Gurney, William _H., attorney-at-law, 102. Haight, Albert, judge Court of Appeals and County judge, 98- 101-107. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 151 Hall, N. K., Coitnty judge, 98-102. Haven, Solomon G., attorney-at-law, 102. Hennepin, Father, narrative, 13. Horton, Mrs. John Miller, elected vice-president, 2-3; at Griffon tablet ceremonies, 2-6; at the Devil's Hole tablet ceremonies, 43-SS; at Fort Tompkins ceremonies, 87-88-89; Court House tablet ceremonies, 97. Hotchkiss, William, county judge, 98. Howard, Frederick, leads music at Black Rock ceremonies, 32; at the Devil's Hole, 44; at Lewiston, 74; at Fort Tompkins, 88; at Court House, 98. Hull, Captain, services, 28. Hull, Absalom, services, 28. Humphrey, James M., Superior Court judge, 98; attorney-at-law, 102. Hurlburt, Rev. Rollo F., oflSciates at Court House tablet ceremonies, 98. International Railway Company, presents tablet, 3. Johnson, Sir William, reports, 50; calls Indian councils, 51; sug- gests charter for Lewiston, 76. Joncaire, Chabert, picketed house, 76; cabin, 77. Jones, Albert E., address at the Devil's Hole tablet ceremonies, 52. Judges, county, list of, 98. Kane, Robert, services, 28. Lamont, George D., Supreme Court judge, 98. Landon, Joseph, appointed on committee, 70. Laning, Albert P., attorney-at-law, 102. La Salle, Robert, Cavelier de, sketch of, 12; death, 16. Lewis, George A., at Griffon tablet ceremonies, 9. Lewis, Governor, signs law, 76. Lewis, Loran L., attomey-at-law, 102. Lewiston, Men's Club of, representatives, 110-113-115. Lewiston, village of, 75-76-78; militia at, 83. Lockport, county seat, 105. Lockwood, Stephen, County judge, 98. Love, Thomas C, County judge, 98. Lovejoy, Mrs., killed at burning of Buffalo, 29. Lovell, Prof. TJiomas Bailey, address at Griffon tablet ceremonies, 9. Marshall, Orsamus H., historian, 6. Marvin, Richard P., Supreme Court judge, 98-101. Masten, Joseph G., Superior Court judge, 98-101. Mayflower and Griffon, poem, 18. Mayflower Descendants, Society of the, representatives, 116. Men's Club of Lewiston, representatives, 110-113-115. Merrill, Rev. George G., officiates at Fort Tompkins tablet cere- monies, 88. Militia of Western New York in War of 1812, address by Hon. Peter A. Porter, 39. Miller, William F., attorney-at-law, 102. Morgan, Major Lodowick, U. S. A., wreath, 33; at Black Rock, 35-36; military record, 37. Nelson, Captain, services, 76. Niagara county, erected, 105. 158 NIAGARA FRONTIER Niagara Frontier Historical Society, presents Griffon tablet, 3; rep- resentatives, 110-113-116. Niagara Gorge Railroad Company, presents Devil's Hole tablet, 3. Officers and committees, Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association, 109-111-114. Officers and directors, Niagara Frontier Landmarks Association, 113-116. O'Flannigan, Betty, inn, 77. Order of the Cincinnati, representatives, 115. Pickett's charge, at Gettysburg, 78. Porter, Augustus, County judge, 98-105. Porter, Barton & Co., firm mentioned, 74-79. Porter, Hon. Peter A., addresses at Griffon tablet ceremonies, 2-6; at Scajaquada creek bridge, 39; at Lewiston, 79; at Fort Tomp- kins, ^-92. Porter, General Peter B., at battle of Fort Tompkins, 94. Pratt, Samuel, appointed on committee, 70. Putnam, James O., attorney-at-law, 102. Queenston Heights, stormed, 78; battle of, 83-84. Ramsdell, Eleanor, unveils school house tablet, 71. Representatives in Landmarks Association, 110-112-113-115-116. Revolution, Children of the American, representatives, 110-112-I15. Revolution, Daughters of the American, representatives, 110-112-115. Revolution, Sons of the American, representatives, 110-112-115. Revolution, Sons of the, representatives, 110-112-115. Riders, Rough, at San Juan, 78. Rogers, Henry W., attomey-at-law, 102. Ross, Rev. John W., at Lewiston, 74. Sage, Asahel, services, 76. Scajaquada creek, naval yard, 93. Schlosser,' portage at, 79; fort, 83. School house, Buffalo's first, tablet, 66; building, 67; subscriptions for, 68; ceremonies at unveiling of tablet, 69. Scott Battery, 72-73. Scott, General Winfield, mentioned, 72-73; at battle of Queenston Heights, 84-85. Scovell, J. Boardman, address at Lewiston, 74-75. Seeley, Lieutenant-Colonel, services, 28. Seneca Indians, account of, 48-52. Severance, Frank H., address at Lewiston, 74-83. Sheldon, James, County judge, 98. Sites, Committee on, 109-111-114; report, 123. Skinner, Hon. Charles R., at school house tablet ceremonies, 66-71. Smith, Rev. Charles H., officiates at court house tablet ceremonies, 97. Smith, Rev. David M., missionary, 76. Smith, James M., Superior Court judge, 98. Smith, Philip S., elected treasurer, 1-2; reports as treasurer, 117- 118-119-120-121-122. Smith, Hon. T. Guilford, presides, 66-70. Smythe, General, at Buffalo, 83. Society of Colonial Wars, representatives, 110-112-115. Society of the War of 1812, representatives, 110-112-115. LANDMARKS ASSOCIATION. 158 Sprague, E. Carlton, attorney-at-law, 102. Steele, Dorothy, unveils school house tablet, 71. Steadman, John, at the Devil's Hole, 48-49. St. John, Gamaliel, buys property, 30. St. John House, tablet, 26 ; appearance of, 30. St. John, Mrs. G., at burning of Buffalo, 29. Strong, John C, attorney-at-law, 102. Stringer, George Alfred, address at the Devil's Hole tablet cere- monies, 44. Stryker, James, County judge, 98. Sweeney, James, services, 28. Tablets, committees on, 109-111-114. Tablets, report of committee, 2-3 ; erected, 89. Talcott, John L., Supreme Court judge, loi. Tompkins, Fort, tablet, 87 ; history, 93 ; battle at, 94-95-96. Tracy, Albert H;, attorney-at-law, 102. Treasurer's reports, 117-118-119-120-121-122. Tucker, Lieut.-col. John G. P., at Black Rock, 36. Tupper, Samuel, County judge, 98. Turner, O., extract from writings, 17. Van Rensselaer, Colonel, at battle of Queenston Heights, 83. Van Rensselaer, General, at Lewiston, 83-84. Verplanck, Isaac A., Superior Court judge, 98. Walden, Ebenezer, County judge, 98. Walker, Jesse, County judge, 98. Ward, Rev. John C, officiates at the Devil's Hole tablet ceremonies, 43-44- Wheeler, Catharine and Mary, unveil Barton-Wheeler tablet, 74. Wheeler, Mrs. Albert J., presents Barton- Wheeler tablet, 3, 73, 74, 81. Wilcox, Charles W., poem, at Griffon tablet ceremonies, 18. Wilkeson, Samuel, County judge, 98. Willett, James M., attorney-at-law, 102. Wool, John E., at battle of Queenston Heights, 84.