BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Hcnrg W. Sage 1891 A2>..\ \ .5 ip.c^ lS../..j/Laa 7673-2 RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. Cornell University Library SB 413.C55W45 1904 Book on the culture of the chrysanthemum 3 1924 002 812 547 The original of tliis bool< is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002812547 WELLS' BOOK ON THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM FOR EXHIBITION, DECORATION, CUT FLOWER, AND MARKET. WITH NUMEROUS WOODCUTS and PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE DIFFERENT BREAKS, INSECT PESTS, etc. THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED 1904. Written and Published by W. Wells, ^Earlswood NURSERIES, ReDHILL, SURREY. COPY RIGHT A W. WELLS. INTRODUCTION. I AM desirous of making my book on the cultivation of chrysanthemums as up-to-date as possible, and with this object in view I have found it imperative to re-write the greater part of the last edition, especially the chapters giving the names of the best varieties in each section. There have been so many improvements in every way within the last few years that a reprint of the old matter would be in some respects misleading. But on the subject of culture, etc., I can add very Httle to that which I have already published, and therefore I have allowed this portion of my previous book to remain. Of late, newer chrysanthemums easy to cultivate have received considerable attention, and great strides have been made- more particularly with the early flowering varieties. This class of chrysanthemum has much to recommend it. It may be raised by persons of the most limited means ; it makes a fine Autumn display for beds and borders ; or it may be grown in thousands for cut flowers for market. The initial cost is not more than that of the usual bedding-out plants, and therefore early flowering 'mums are within the reach of thousands who cannot buy the more expensive varieties. It will be found that I have treated this section at some length in Chapter VI. It has always been my wish to advise and encourage amateurs who desire to exhibit, for there is nothing like the friendly rivalry of an exhibition —whether of chrysanthemums or other flowers— to deepen the interest of growers, and thus ensure blooms being brought to their greatest perfection. A desire to excel in some special way is universal. There are compara- tively few people who do not pride themselves on being able to " go one better " than their neighbours. It is a natural ambition and, -when directed to the cultivation of flowers, a beautiful iv The Culture of the Chrysanthemiim. ambition — refining in its influence, and healthful as a recrea- tion. ^ When one sees — as I do almost daily — vast numbers of colliers and mechanics in thickly populated towns striving to rear their plants or flowers in order to show them to the best advantage in competition with their fellows, and when one observes the care and pride with which they handle them, it makes one feel that chrysanthemum societies deserve all the encouragement that can possibly be given to them by local authorities and generous subscribers. It has been well said that " whenever you see a flower in a cottage garden, or a bird- cage at the window, you may feel suire that the cottagers are better and wiser than their neighbours " ; and no one can fail to notice a vast difference in the appearance of plain folk at a flower show from those to be met at some other meetings. To masters I would say : "Encourage local shows by allowing your gardeners to exhibit : it helps to support the local society and generally means also that you will have flowers of the best quality for your own inspection and to show your friends." To gardeners I would say : " Show by all means if your em- ployers are agreeable. If it means extra hours spent over the plants there is a certain amount of excitement, and a great amount of personal pleasure, which well repay the time employed — and gardeners want a little recreation ! " But I would like to add ; " Don't put all your energy into the ex- hibition plants and leave your employers destitute of flowers during the dull months which follow the chrysanthemum season, or, depend upon it, your exhibiting will stop sooner or later ! " Since my last book appeared it has been found necessary in order to meet the increasing requirements of our business to acquire extensive premises in addition to the nurseries at Eatlswood- Accordingly, a lease has been taken of the Introduction. V Battlebridge Nurseries, MerStham, comprising fourteen glass houses with an area of 24,000 superficial feet, and nearly five acres of land. One greenhouse alone is 125 feet long and 54 feet wide— a floor space larger than that of many a town hall. Any reader of this book interested in chrysanthemum culture who desires to see the plants or blooms in the successive stages of development is welcome to pay a visit to the nurseries at Earlswood or to those at Merstham, or to both. Amateur growers and chrysanthemum societies are especially welcome ; and visitors will, I believe, find much to interest them at the home nurseries and at Battlebridge. These are the only nurseries in England (and as far as I have been able to ' ascertain the only ones in the world) existing exclusively for the. cultivation of chrysanthemums. And lest the foregoing paragraph should appear to be too self-commendatory let me here state that in the pages which follow I have tried to be perfectly impartial to other growers— some of them being my keenest business rivals. I have men- tioned by name those whom in my judgment have done or are now doing most for chrysanthemum culture both in England and in other lands. One word more. My experience among chrysanthemums has been a long one, extending over 36 years — not always growing for exhibition, but at all times trying to increase and perfect knowledge previously gained. My whole time is spent among chrysanthemums, studying their growth and noting their innumerable interesting peculiarities. It is therefore with a certain amount of confidence that I publish this little book dealing with the subject to which I have devoted the best years of my life, and in commending it to the reader's perusal I believe that it will be found to contain most of the informa- tion that is likely, to be required about the Culture of the Chrysanthemum. W. WELLS. CONTENTS. PAOE. Introduction v Chapter I. — The First 'Mums in England. — Imported from China. — The C. indicum. — ^Japan's Favourite Flower. — Early 'Mum Shows in England. — Varie- ties in 1890-95. — The Popularity of the Chrysan- themum.— Enthusiastic Amateurs I Chapter II. — 'Mums for Exhibition. — Cuttings. — First Potting. — When the Plants are Rooted. — Potting into 6-in. Pots. — Hints on Watering. — Preparations for Final Potting. — Summer Quarters. — Final Potting. — The First Breaks. — Soot-Water and Paraffin. — The Second Break. — Securing the Buds. — A Good Dressing. — Housing the Plants 8 Chapter III. — Stopping. — The Object of Stopping.— Varieties Improved by Stopping ... 22 Chapter IV. — 'Mums in 6-in. Pots. — Dwarfs. — Methods of Culture.— A Second Method.— A Third Plan.— Some Advantages of Dwarfs 28 Chapter V. — 'Mums for Decoration. — How to Produce the Best Plants. — Large Specimens. — Training the Shoots 31 Chapter VI. — Early Flowering 'Mums. — General Remarks. — Inserting the Cuttings. — Planting Out. — A List of the Best Varieties 33 Chapter VII. — Single 'Mums. —Their Increasing Popularity.— From October to February.— After Flowering. — How to Grow Singles. — List of the Best Varieties 37 Chapter VIII. — Pompons for Exhibition. — Culture. — List of Varieties ... ... ... ... ... ... 41 Chapter IX. — Anemone 'Mums. — Decorative Uses. — Some of the Best .... 42 Chapter X. — The Housing of Plants. — Useful Hints on Fumi- gation. — Hints on Ventilation. — Watering and Manuring. — Show Blooms ... ... 43 Chapter XI. — Staging Flowers for Exhibition; — The Best Method. — Cutting Blooms.— Cupping. — Entering at Shows.— 'Mums in Vases. — Arrangement 47 Contents. vii Chapter XII. — How to Pack 'Mums.— The Best Method.— pagr Flowers Sent from England to New York 51 Chapter XIII.— 'Mums for Market.— The Best Flowers Necessary.— Good Colouring. — How to Raise Market Varieties. — Names of the Best Varieties. — Pot Plants.— In the Open.— Staking the Plants.— Why Good Plants Pay 52 Chapter XIV.— Soil for Potting.— The Best Kind of Soil.— Soil for Final Potting. — Adviceto Amateurs ... 57 Chapter XV. — 'Mums on the Continent. — Leading Points of Difference. — 'Mums at the Paris Exhibition. — A Great French Grower 59 Chapter X\'I, — 'Mums in America. — Popular Appreciation. — The New York Show. — The Champion Blooms, — A Collection sent from England. — American Cul- tural Methods. — Some Good Varieties. — Market 'Mums — Pests and Diseases. — Stopping and Timing 62 Chapter XVII. — 'Mums Sporting. — Freaks of Nature. — Fami- lies of Sports ... ... ... ... ... ... 72 Ch.apter XVIII. — Sizes of Flower-Pots. — The Various Measure- ments ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 74 Chapter XIX. — Insect Pests and Diseases. — Enemies of 'Mum Growers. — Aphides. — Thrip. — Bugs.— Fungus. — Remedy for Fungus. — Mildew. — Rust or Mould ... 75 Chapter XX. — Insect Friends. — Some Tiny Assistant Gardeners. — The Hoverer or Hawk Fly. — Air Bees or Wasp Flfcs.— The Lady-Bird ... 84 Chapter XXL— Hints on What Not to Do.— A Little Sermon 88 Chapter XXII.— Hints on What to Do.— Another Little Sermon * ... ... •■■ ••• •■• ■•• 9° Chapter XXIII.— Dressing Blooms for Show.— Preparing In- curveds. — Other Varieties 91 Chapter XXIV.— Judging Cut Blooms.'— Qualifications of a Judge.— Size Against Colour.— The point System 94 Chapter XXV. — Grouping. — Some General Remarks 96 Chapter XXVI. ^The Best Seventy-two Japs, Fifty Incurveds, and Novelties. -^List of Varieties ... ... ... 98 Chapter XXVII.— The 'Mum Grower's Calendar. — Useful Hints for Every Month of the Year 103 Some of the Medals won by W. Wells' Chrysanthemiir^ in Great Britain and abroad, THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. CHAPTER 1. -i,E FIRST CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN ENGLAND. Imported from China.- The story of the introduction of the chrysanthemum into Europe has been 'requently told, with more or less accuracy. As might, perhaps, be expected the early recaps are meagre and somewhat vague. The eighth edition ofPhilip Miller's great work, the "Gardeners' Dictionary," Stations that he cultivated the Matricaria indica at Chelsea in (J^4, and this is claimed to be the first appearance of the flower in this country. It was received from Ningpo in China, where at that time it was known to grow plentifully. But there is reason for believing that this plant was a kind ofpyrethrum, and not a true chrysanthemum at all. In 1789 M. Blancard, a merchant of Marseilles, brought home three varieties of chrysanthemums from China — a white, a violet, and a purple— but he only succeeded in propagating one, the purple. Three years later a French botanist named -Ramatuelle sent about one hundred plants raised from the new chrYsanthemum to ihe Jardin des Plantes, at Paris, where they flourished. This had the result of popularising the strange but lovel^l. Eastern flower, and within a few years chrysanthemums were to be found growing in gardens in Aix, Marseilles and Toulon as abundantly as the China aster. 1) 2 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. In England. — It wars not until several years later, till 1795, that the history of the chrysanthemum began in England. It is recorded in the " Botanical Magazine " for February, 1796, that in the previous November a handsome chrysanthemum of the crimson-purple variety flowered in the nursery of Mr. Colvill, of King's Road, Chelsea. The variety was probably precisely the same as that which M. Blancard introduced direct from China at Marseilles. A coloured engraving of the bloom was given in the "Botanical Magazine," and was described under the name of C. indicum — although, as a matter of fact, C. indicum was classified as a yellow before Mr. Colvill's crimson-purple flower attracted attention in 1796, and is still known as a yellow chrysanthemum. But I cannot stop to dwell at length upon this point ; any reader who is curious to learn what the experts had to say regarding C. sinense and C. indicum will find the opinions of Sabine, Lindley, and others summarised in " The Gardeners' Chronicle," November, 1889. Between 1795 and 1808 about eiglit new varieties were imported into England from China — namely, the rose, the buff, the golden-yellow, the quilled yellow, the sulphur-yellow, the Spanish brown, the quilled white, and the large lilac. At this period chrysanthemums were so popular in Japan that they were cultivated in almost every garden. In 18 16 was introduced the tasselled white, and in 1817 the superb white. In 1822 there were in cultivation in Great Britain 22 varieties ; in 1824, 27 ; and in 1 826, 48— four of which were sports which originated in England. All the others were, however, believed to have been introduced from China. Japan's Favourite Flower— Mr. Robert Fortune, a gentleman who had travelled a great deal in China and Japan, found that everywhere the chrysanthemum seemed to be the favourite flower. He described how in i86o he saw for the first time those peculiar forms of the flower which are cultivated in Japanese gardens. At Yedo, where the finest kinds were grown, and where he procured about thirty different varieties, he discovered that many of them had their blossoms most CHRYSANTHEMUM INDICUM. (Natural s/ze of Spray arid Flower^ B 3 4 The Culture of the Chrysatithemitm . curiously and remarkably formed. The colours, which were brilliant and very unusual, were altogether distinct from those he had met with in China. Out of the thirty varieties only about twelve or fifteen were brought to England "alive,'' and from one or more of these Mr. John Salter, of Hammersmith, seems. to .have saved some seed. From this seed Mr. Salter raised, a. large number of new kinds of chrysanthemums differing in form and colour from those from which the seeds were saved, but similar to those which were lost on the way home to England from Japan. The result does not seem to have been obtained by hybridising for the simple reason that the pollen of the kinds produced could not have been obtained in Europe. Mr. Fortune declared that if one was in possession of one variety only it might .be made to reproduce all the varieties in cultivation from whence it came, and that flowers would be produced not only different in colour from the parent, but entirely different in form also. Between 1830 and 1850 several varieties were raised from seed saved in England and France. Amongst the latter were the well-known Christine and Chevalier Domage, and in 1848 there appears to have been an anemone flowered variety called Nancy de Lermet — white tinged with blue. And ever since then the real blue chrysanthemum has been more a matter of conversation than of fact. But this may come yet ! Who at one time would have thought of seeing a green Chrysanthemum, especially in a sport, and afterwards as a seedling ? Then why not a blue chrysanthemum ? But this is by the way. Esirly 'Miini Shows in Englana.— About the time that Nancy de Lermet was raised, according to Mr. Fortune, the chrysanthemums in this country were far superior to those in China, and this despite the fact that they met at first with scant favour in England, though it was otherwise in France, where many beaut-ful varieties soon appeared. From the inception of the Stoke Newington Show long strides have been made, both as regards varieties and cultivation. The earliest chrysanthemum show in Great Britain was that held at Norwich, about the year 1829, and Tlie First Chrysanthemums in England. 5 although no prizes were given it was considered to be a rather rash undertaking, Some of the varieties exhibited at Norwich were :— Early Blush, Curled Lilac, Semi-double Quilled Pink, White Quilled, Tasselled Yellow, Parks Yellow, Purple Quilled, Tasselled Lilac, Changeable Pink Buff, Changeable Pale White, Changeable Purple, Spanish Brown, Quilled Orange, Two-coloured Red, and Early Crimson. What's in a name ? Varietiea In IS90-1805.— I need not dwell upon the old varieties, or those which were introduced for some years after- wards, but I will give the names of some of the best varieties which were to be seen in England in 1890— and it is a remark- able fact that out of the varieties which were so popular at that time, only two, namely, Edwin Molyneux and Stanstead White, are to be found on the Show bench at the present time. The best thirty six varieties in 1890 were : — Avalanche, Carew Underwood, Boule d'Or, Belle Paule, Baronne de Prailly, Comte de Germiny, Elaine, F. A. Davis (Jeanne Delaux), Edwin Molyneux, Golden Dragon, H. Cannell, Japonaise, L' Adorable, La ly Lawrence, Etoile de Lyon, Mdm. B. Pigny, Mdm. Bacco, Mdm. J. Laing, Mdm. C. Audigier, Mdlle. Lacroix, Marsa, Mons. Bernard, Mons. Freeman, Mrs. Wheeler, Mrs. J. Wright, Meg Merrilees, Pelican Ralph Brocklebank, Sarah Owen, Sunflower,'Stanstead White, Soleil Levant, Val d'Andorre, W. W. Coles, Thunberg, and Stanstead Surprise, etc. Twenty-four of the best incurved chrysanthemums in 1890 were: — Princess of Wales, Mrs. Heale, Violet Tomlin, Mrs. S. Coleman, Miss Haggas, Empress of India, Alfred Salter; Golden Empress, John Lambert, Lord Alcester, Queen of England, Refulgens, John Salter, Prince Alfred, Lord Wolseley, Jeanne d'Arc, Jardin des Plantes, Hero of Stoke Newington, Princess tff Teck, Chas. Gibson, Nil Desperandum, Barbara, Mrs. Geo. Rundle, and Mrs. Dixon. There are very fevv of the foregoing plants in cultivation at the present time, for the simple reason that noni of them will compare with such varieties as C. H. Curtis,' Duchess of Fife, Lady Isabel, etc., in the same way that the earlier Japanese 6 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. varieties will not compare with Mdm. Carnot, W. R. Church, Mrs. Barkley, Miss Elsie Fulto:^, Bessie Godfrey, etc. In 1895 the incurved section was enriched by C. H. Curtisi Mrs. R. C. Kingston, Baron Hirsch, Mdm. Darrier, J. Agate, Mens. R. Bahuant, etc., while during the same period, the Jaoanese made such strides that larger show boards were con- sidered necessary. And for the vast improvement which was made, much of the credit must be given to Mons. E. Calvat, of Grenoble, who at that time gave a stimulus to the chrysan- themum trade. Although other growers were doing their best their whole efforts combined could not compare with M. Calvat's. But, naturally enough, a large number took up the running — such as Weeks, N. Molyneux, Penford, Mileham, Silsbury, Bryant, Tanner, and other amateur raisers in Great Britain, in addition to members of the trade, and Pockett in Australia and others in different parts of the world, so that it is not surprising that so many varieties are introduced each year. And as it is only natural for each grower to look upon his own production as superior to that of others, it can be easily understood why so many varieties get into circula- tion. Some of the Japanese varieties which were considered un- surpassable in 1895 were :— Mdm. Carnot, Mons. Panckoucke, Mons. Chenon de Leche, Edwin Molyneux, V. Morel, Chas. Davis, Mdlle. M. A. de Galbert, Col. VV. B. Smith, Baron de Buffieries, John Shrimpton, Phcebus, Mdlle. Theresa Ray, Louise, le Moucherotte, Mutual Friend, Mrs. C. H. Payne, Mrs. W. H. Lees, Mdm. M. Ricoud, Thos. Wilkins, Miss Dorothy Shea, Viscountess Hambledon, W. Seward, Mdm. Ad. Chatin Deuil de Jules Ferry, Beauty of Cast'.ewood, Souvenir de Petite Amie, Rose Wynne, etc. And if we compare the above with those in the analysis of the "Journal of Horticulture,'' Dec- ember i8th, 1902 (compiled by Mr. E. Molyneux), it will be seen that only three of the above are in the best 'iffy— Mdm, Carnot, M. Chenon de Leche, and E. Molyneux. The incurved section have been improved nearly as rapidly as the Japs, and what will be the result in the ne.xt generation The First Chrysanthemums in England. 7 t is impossible to foretell. All I can say is, speaking from experience, that 'mums are becoming more popular every year, more especially the singles and early flowering sections. ■ he Popularity orChryManthemumi) And here let me remark in passing that from time to time articles are published or speeches are made in which the writer or speaker proves apparently to his own satisfaction that the chrysanthe- mum trade is on the wane, and that the flower is declining in favour. But this is not my experience ; indeed, the contrary is the case. For every two or three traders who fail, a score of new-comers are to be found joining the ranks of professional growers, and the amateurs are an ever-increasing army ! I do not pretend to be a prophet, but I venture to say, looking to the future, that the popularity of the chrysanthemum will 1 ot die. The flower comes to perfection at a period of the year when no other flower, procurable at such a trifling outlay, can be obtained to fill its place. Bnthusiaiitic Amateurs. — As regards the early flower- ing chrysanthemums, immense strides in their cultivation have .been made, for up to i88g there were very few good varieties. Comprised in the best were : — Mdm. C. Desgrange, St. Grouts, Nanum, Little Bo'i, Fred Pete, Precocite, Flora, Mdm. Jolivart, La Vierge, Lyon, Blushing Bride, Mrs. Burrell, Mrs. Hawkins, Alice Butcher, Anastasio, and a few others. But the late Mr. W. Piercy took up their culture, and about the year 1889 he wrote an article upon them, in which he remarked: " We want a few more enthusiastic amateurs, and any spare money we can get, for these are the things to help on the progress of these early varieties, which appear capable of boundless extension.'' There never was a more accurate forecast. At that time, too, the late Mr. Russell, of Mytchett, Farnborough, Hants, was directing his attention to the early varieties, and introduced a lot quite superior to any others then in existence, nearly all of them being recognisable by the name of Mytchett, viz., Mytchett White, .Mytchett Beauty, etc. Mr. Godfrey followed with Queen of the Earlies, and quite a large batch of French varieties were distributed, which has indeed proved what 8 The Culture of tlie Chrysanthemum. yix. Piercy had prophesied. Recently Mr. Goacher has surpassed all others by raising varieties with good constitution and free flowering, and which bloom early in September onwards, viz., Goacher's Crimson, Gertie, Carrie, Kitty, Polly, The Champion, Orange, etc., and M. Aug. Nonin and others in France have also turned their attention to the earlies and sent us some nf the best in whites, etc. ; and still there is a scarcity of really good whites. CMAPTER II. CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. Cuttings. — In the following chapters I propose to treat of the best and most up-to-date methods of growing the chrysanthemum for all purposes, whether exhibition, decora- tion, or market ; but as the first of these stands out from the rest both in respect of the skill required and in the perfection of bloom produced I shall take this section first. In growing chrysanthemums for the Show bench I shall give two distinct methods, and shall endeavour to keep each to its own chapter. In following the first method, whereby two, three, and even four blooms for exhibition- are produced on the same plant, it is essential that the cuttings should be inserted during December and January if they can be procured. The soil should consist of equal parts of loam, sand, and leaf- mould or cocoa-fibre refuse. Sprinkle a little coarse sand on the top of the compost, so that some may trickle down when the holes are made into which the cuttings are inserted. Put three or four cuttings round the edge of a 4-inch pot, press firmly, and sprinkle- with a little water to settle all well about the heels of the cuttings. Place them in a greenhouse in hand-lights, or boxes just deep enough to allow of squares of glass being laid over them, to retain the moisture whilst rooting is being accom- plished. Take cuttings of all the late flowering sorts first, if they can Chrysanthemums for Exhibition. g be-had. I prefer those which have a clean growth of four or five inches from the ground, taking their tops about two or three inches long {see Fig. i), to those which have been grubbed up out of the ground, even if they have roots to them. The former cuttings make plants sooner, and have a cleaner growth^(cut- tings from the stem often throw premature flower buds). The cuttings will require to be sprayed occasionally, at about ten or eleven o'clock, so that they may get tolerably dry by evening. They will not require watering otherwise till they are rooted, which will be in three or four weeks. The temperature should be from 45° by night to 50° by day. It is advisable to be a little below than above this temperature, and the less fire-heat employed the better. At one time I used to root cuttings in cold frames, but long experience has taught me that it is not always safe on account of severe frosts. Some growers become very anxious if certain'soits of cuttings cannot be had at a given date, but this need not be, as I will show by the method of 10 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. stopping {see " Stopping, and its Object "). As soon as the cuttings show the least sign of growth, the glass should be tilted for a day or two in order to harden them, and then taken off altogether. They should then be removed from the box or frame, and given plentyof light and air, so as to keep them from growing too fast and becoming drawn. When the cuttings are nicely rooted, before the roots get en- I "n PLANT NEWLY POTTED IN'TO A 6-INCH POT. tangled all round, knock the plants out of the pot and divide them carefully. Hardly a root will be broken. Pot them into clean 3-inch or 4-inch pots, crocked with old mortar rubbish or oak leaves. First Potting. — Soil : One bushel of good loam (that in which cucumbers have been grown the previous year will do), one quarter bushel oak or beech leaves twelve months old, one quarter bushel old mortar rubbish sifted fine, a quart of ground Chrysanthemums for Exhibition. j i bones, and half a gallon of coarse sand. Failing the ground bones, use one quarter bushel of very old rotten manure, but nothing to cause rank, sappy growth. Pass the whole through a half-inch sieve ; and the coarser portion of the soil may be put into the bottom of the pots for drainage. I very rarely use a crock at the bottom of small pots. Make the soil moderately firm with the thumbs. Rig up a frame close to the glass (an old door will do), put a thin layer of ashes or cocoanut-fibre upon it, and stand the newly-potted plants on this. Sprinkle them overhead once a day, or twice in very sunny weather. If the sun is very bright, they may want shading for a few days, but not otherwise. Keep them close for a day or two ; then give them all the light and air possible, but no fire-heat if you can just manage to keep them above freezing-point without it. Fumigate or dust them with tobacco powder on the first appear- ance of aphis. When the Plantn are Rooted. — As soon as the plants are beginning to root nicely, the best place for them is a cold rame, for by this time the sun will have sufficient power to admit of them having a little air each day, but cover them at night with mats if frosty, leaving just a chink for air when the thermometer is above 40°. A sheltered spot should be selected, so that they may get no cold, cutting draughts ; but air should be given on all favourable occasions. If the wind is at all keen, tilt the lights a little on the opposite side to that from which the wind is blowing ; or use hurdles, or boughs— in fact, anything that will break the wind ; but the plants should have air if the thermometer is above 40° in the day. They must not be crowded at any time, but should stand clear of each other. From the middle to the end of March, the tops— only just the point, say, half-an-inch— may be taken out of the very late varieties {see '^Stopping"). A week after this they will be ready for sl\ifting into 6-inch pots. This should be about the end of March or first week in April. Do not stop any plants at the time of potting. Either stop them a few days before, or leave them until they have been potted a week. 1 2 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. Potting into 6-in. puts (or 33'ii) —Soil : To every bushel of good, yellow, fibrous loam, which has been cut six months or more and chopped about the size of walnuts, add two gallons of leaf mould, two gallons of rotten manure, two gallons of old mortar rubbish or charcoal, not larger than nuts, and two gallons of wood ashes, half a gallon of ground bones, and half a gallon of coarse sand. The latter need not be added if the loam has plenty of fibre in it. If mortar rubbish cannot be had, add more sand, but sand has not the nourishment that old mortar rubbish has. This quantity will be sufficient for about fifty plants. Commence by putting one good-sized crock, hollow side down, over the hole of a clean pot, and cover this with a layer of old mortar rubbish about the size of nuts to the depth of about three-quarters of an inch, then fill in another layer of the roughest or turfy parts of the soil. Ram this pretty firmly with the blunt end of the potting-stick ; sprinkle a handful of finer soil loosely over this for the roots to rest upon ; turn the plants out of the 4-inch pots by giving them a tap on the bench, catching them with the left hand ; and then stand each one in the centre of the pot, and Avith the crown fully half-an-inch below the rim of the pot. Hold the plant in position until sufficient soil has been put in to keep it upright, ramming it gently and evenly all round until the pot is filled level to the crown of the plant, not more. Be careful that your stick is not too wide, and do not punch too closely to the old ball, or with one punch you may cut through the roots all down one side. This will bruise every root, and the plant will take some time to recover. Hint!* on \^'a»ering. — Some growers shade their plants after this potting, but if the operation is carefully done, shading is unnecessary. Sprinkling the plants once or twice daily will be all that is required for a few days. The plants should be returned, to the frames after this shift, and may be kept a httle close for a day, to keep the wind from blowing directly upon them ; otherwise they should have all the light and air possible, and plenty of room allowed them. They should not be watered for a few days after potting, but be kept from Chrysanthemums for Exhibition. 1 3 flagging by just sprinkling them overhead very Hghtly, but rot after 2 p.m., or they will not get dry before night. They should be watered the first time sufficiently to soak the ball through, a rose being used on the watering-pot. Do not go over them all a little, and then round again, as this will make the soil muddy. After this watering, the pots should always be tapped with the knuckles to ascertain if the plants are dry; and if this prove to be so, give them sufficient water to go through the bottom. But on no account water them before they are dry, for on this careful watering depends the ripening of the wood throughout the whole growth. One soon gets used to the sound of a dry pot. The old custom of watering chrysanthemums once a day, whether they want it or not, will never ripen the wood properly, and will never produce good exhibition flowers. It should be remem- bered that after the first watering they may not want any more for a week, and watering would only turn them yellow. But as soon as they get well rooted, some of them may want watering twice daily on hot, dry days, and they must have it, or they will have their revenge in November ! Not one item must be neglected. The best of everything must be got for them, and the best attention given them. Then, depend upon it, they will reward you in the end. Always avoid watering chrysanthemums late in the day when there is any sign of frost, for when the plants are full of water the frost takes more hold upon them than when they are dry. But while they are in the 32's they can be covered at night, for it is not safe to trust the English climate even one night. Some of the plants may want a stake while in the 32's, but do not use large or stout ones. Should the plants get too tall for the frame, put a brick under each corner. If they are well rooted, and the weather is wet and cold, it would be better to feed them a little than pot them into their flowering pots ; for as a rule they must be placed in the open after the final potting. A spell of wet weather would sodden the rich soil and make it sour before the roots could get hold of it, and if the leaves once began to turn yellow it would be a long tmie 14 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. efore the plants recovered. In fact, they would get such a check that they wouM feel it for the whole season. From the beginning of May the plants should be thoroughly exposed night and day, except when there is any appearance of a sharp frost. A rough framework of posts and slate battens with tiffany is a good covering in case of frost. Preparations for Final Potting. — During the second week in May, preparation for the final potting should be made, by getting the soil ready (see " Final Potting," Page 57). The next step is to see that sufficient pots are cle?.ned and in readiness, and that a good supply of old mortar rubbish, or crushed oyster shells, is prepared for drainage. The mortar rubbish should be run through a half-inch sieve. The coarsest is used for drainage purposes, and the fine kept for mixing with the soil; a little extra may be given to such varieties as Mdm. Carnot, and its sports, these varieties wanting good open soil, and not very much feeding. Final Potting. — Everything being in readiness, and the weather favourable, a beginning may be made with the final potting, the strongest and best-rooted plants being taken first. A large clean crock, or an oyster shell, should be placed, hollow side downward, over the hole, and then about an inch of old mortar rubbish, or the broken oyster shells. I use the shells, if they can possibly be had,in preference to clinkers or crocks for twp reasons : firstly, they form food for the plant; secondly, they need not be picked out when the old stools are thrown away, as they are also good for the garden. Upon the drainage put some of the roughest or turfy parts of the soil, sufficient to cover the crocks well, then some of the soil, and ram pretty tightly with the blunt end of the potting-stick (which should be a foot long, and about one-and-a-half inches in diameter, with one end shaved to half-an-inch). Add loosely a little of the fine soil for the plant to rest upon, then turn the plant topsy-turvy, and give the rim of the pot a sharp tap on the bench, catching the plant with the left hand. Pick out the crock, and all the rubble. Take care not to injure the roots, but spread them out, carefully resting the plant upon the soil. 1 6 Tlie Culture of the CJirysanthemum. The base of the stem should be quite an inch below the top of the pot, and in the centre. Hold it in position with the left hand until you fill in sufficient soil to steady it. Then gently ram the soil with the thin end of the stick, being careful not to cut any of the roots in punching, and continue to fill in and ram till you get he soil level with the base, after which with the blunt end of the stick press the surface down pretty tightly, so that you cannot make any impression with yoiir thumb. If the soil is sufficiently porous, there will be no danger ; but if your soil is very heavy and fibreless, it would be well to pot one of your worst plants first, and stand it out and water it to see if the water passes through all right. I once made a sad mistake by telling the men not to be afraid of ramming the mould too tightly. The soil was heavy and had very little fibre in it. It had, moreover, been lying in a rather damp place, and the large pieces which they put at the bottom of the pots were too wet. They pounded it so thoroughly that the water could not get through, and not being at home to watch the proceedings, all that day's labour was wasted (j?^ " Hints on What Not to Do"). Several trying seasons have taught me a lesson as regards standing the plants directly into their summer quarters after being potted into their final pots. A keen wind may strip off the leaves and give them a severe check. Many of the varieties, Mrs. T. W. Pockett, for instance, turn quite yelloA' in the foliage, which eventually dies off leaving the stems quite naked for a distance of two feet or so. This as may be imagined greatly retards them. So I advise standing them for a fortnight or so in a sheltered position, where they may be more easily syringed to prevent drying too quickly, and also be more easily syringed with the paraffin mixture, a preventative against the lungus {see " Remarks on Fungus "). Muniiiter <|uaritt-r«. — With regard to summer quarters for the 'mums, the sides of the paths in the kitchen garden are doubtless as good places as any, if there is plenty of room without the trees or vegetables shading them. They may be stood just off the paths. Place floor-boards or Chrysanthemums for Exhibition. 1 7 tiles to stand the plants upon. A stout stump should be driven into the ground at each end and also at intervals of twelve or fifteen feet along the row of pots, and a wire of medium thick- ness stretched from post to post at each end and about five feet froih the ground. If the rows run north and south, the wire may be raised four feet at the south, and six feet at the north 6nd, so that the shortest varieties of plants may be placed ^t the south end and the tallest varieties at the north, and thus allow the sun to shine over the tops of all. If the very tall varieties are stood together, it is as well to put two wires ; or if the cultivator desires to tie his plants out each way they should have two wires. Do not use string, for it stretches andrshrinks, and is almost sure to come to grief in September through wet and wind. Then there is all the work to do over again, besides having many of the buds broken off. If the plants cannot be stood up the sides of the paths, they should have a position where they would be well exposed to the sun all day. I rnay say that in our nursery at South Merstham we have layers of concrete seven inches wide and four feet apart run-nipg North and South, so as to form a permanent position ; but there are only very few growers who could spare the ground to dp this^ although concrete is cheaper and more durable than bnands. Ill standing the plants in their summer quarters, they should he at least fifteen inches from plant to plant — more if possible. One .good strong stake should be put to each plant When the row is completed — 6-feet or 7-feet bamboos are the best. Bam- booSare strong, and, lasting several seasons, are the cheapest. Besides, being slight they do not shade the plants much, and, whilp they need no sharpening, they will not bruise the roots if carefully inserted. The stakes should be placed on the north side^ of the plant, so that they may not shade it at all, and :,each plant should be looped to the stake. The plants should be sprinkled over head twice a day to prevent flagging, and .this will keep them fresh for three or four days without watering ; but do not syringe them after 3 p.m. When they are watered for the first time it should be done with the rose on c <: n a s- < o a S s Chrysanthemums for Exhibition. 19 and sufficient water shpuld be given to go through (or fill the pot, which will be enough), and they will not require any more for a few days. But keep up the sprinkling with very weak, clear soot-water once a day. The pots should be tapped with the knuckles when they look dry to make sure of the fact, and by no means give water unless they sound hollow. If they are over- watered at this stage the foliage will be sure to turn yellow, for the soil, being rich and firm, holds the water ; but always when they are watered they should have sufficient to soak them through. The First Breafe.— After they have made their first break the shoots should either be looped separately to the stake, or smaller sticks should be inserted and tied to the wire on each side, so as to allow each shoot to be attached to one stick. I have tried both these methods, but I really cannot see any difference in the flowers at the finish. As the tying out re- quires more sticks and extra work in tying, especially when the plants have to be taken indoors, and as the plants so treated do not look so nice, I do not think there is any pre- ference to be given for the extra labour. Watering must be very carefully done throughout, always giving the pots enough when they want it, and not before. They should be looked over three times a day at least, and if the weather be hot and dry in July, four times. I have sometimes seen plants neglected very much, especially on Sundays, when they get what I call "flicked over"— when growers make a watering-potful go about three times as far as it ought to go. This is terribly de- ceiving, and unless the operator is caught in the act you would not think of it. The sooner such persons get notice to quit the better it will be for the gardener, for it is hardly necessary to remark that such men do not take an interest in their work. I have also seen men when watering, and when within five or six plants of the end of the row (and perhaps with only sufficient water in the watering-pot for two plants), eking it out for the lot rather than go for more. Soot-^'ater and Paraffin.— It is a good plan to syringe the plants with clear soot-water with a table-spoonful of 20 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. paraffin to the gallon, once a week ; it keeps aphides and thrip at bay, and it is one of the best preventives against mildew and the fungus. As a matter of fact these agents are so cheap growers do not reckon them at half their value. Soot is valu- able as an insecticide as well as a stimulant. When plants are in process of full development and a spell of dull weather sets in the growth will be very tender and watering must be most carefully done. For if the sun and wind play upon them afterwards the tops will lop like rags. But do not be deceived and think they are dry. Tap the pots to make sure. A " tickle " with the syringe may be much more advantageous to them than a dose of water at the roots ; for it is by careful watering only that the wood is thoroughly ripened and the foliage kept from dropping off, or enticing mildew, or parasites. The Siecond Break. — Now, supposing we are in the middle of July and all essential details have been attended to — watering, tying the shoots, keeping all superfluous growths pinched out, etc. — plants which are intended to produce second crown blooms will be making their second breaks. Three shoots may be left on each for a few days. When three inches long take out the worst of these ; and when six inches long take out the worst again — thus leaving but one growth to each shoot, or three shoots to each plant as before. By that time the plants will be well rooted, and may be given very weak stimulants, beginning by only just colouring the water, and changing the diet every week, or oftener if possible. There are so many good manures that it is no trouble to give the plants a change ; but the best manures at this time are those that will afford the plant something to feed upon — such as soot, or sheep, horse, cow, chicken, or pigeon droppings put into a coarse bag and immersed in a tub, which should be kept filled with water. A little of this in the watering-pot every alter- nate day, or three times a week, is far better than a stronger dose once a week. Then there are Clay's, Pearson's, and Lunt's manures, and many others which are adver- tised in this book. A mixture may be made in the proportion of one gallon of manure to one bushel of fine soil, and a Chrysanthemums for Exhibition. 2 1 small handful may be sprinkled on the top of the pots, but the same chemical must not be used twice in succession. The roots are pretty greedy at this time, for they will have got a thorough hold of the soil, and have pretty well exhausted it, and they must, therefore, have something to keep them going. I do not believe in waiting until the bud is secured before commencing to feed, for the plants will have already made their growth. To withhold nourishment from them at this stage would be like starving a boy when he is growing and wants plenty of food and trying to make it up to him when he arrives at manhood. One must study Nature in everything, and, depend upon it Nature is always right ! Securing; the Buds.— About the middle of August many of the plants of the Japanese varieties will be showing buds. It would not be safe to let them make another break after that, or the blooms would be late and show a large eye in many instances. The mid-August buds should, therefore, be secured, and should the buds appear a week or so before the middle of the month, one or two growths may be left for a week or so, towards the top, to retard the bud. Amongst the incurveds — C. H. Curtis, Duchess of Fife, Mdlle. L. Faure, and a few others — the buds may be secured by the middle of August as they have so many florets ; but the majority are best not secured before the 20th, or they would be too early. They may be retarded a little by leaving a shoot at the side of the bud for a few days to draw the sap from the bud, as with the Japanese. The best incurveds are those secured at the end of August. A Good Dressing. — Now, supposing we are at the end of August, or the first week in September, and the buds are all secured. It would be safe to give a dressing of nitrate of soda; but be very careful with this. Mix one pound of nitrafe in two gallons of water, dissolving every particle.. Then to every |wo-gallons of water add half-a-pint of the nitrate liquid, the proportions being half-an-ounce of nitrate to two gallons of water. This will be quite strong enough, and before using it, be careful that none of the plants are quite dry The 22 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. whole of the plants may be watered with the solution if their buds have been secured. This dressing may be repeated in about a fortnight, but not after the plants are housed, for it has a tendency to cause damping. Continue to use other stimulants — farmyard manure, or something else that will enrich the soil, for nitrate does not do this. Nitrate is merely stimulating, like brandy to an exhausted man ; but " Farmyard" is really food, like beef-tea. Housing the Plants. — Well, we are, say, in the last week of September. Everything that can be done for the plants' benefit has been done. All earwigs (that could be found) have been killed ; all mildew checked ; all side-shoots cleaned off etc Now the houses should h& painted or cleaned, andmaae drip-proof. If a house is standing by itself and can be thor- oughly emptied some sulphur may be burnt in it. This kills everything ; but if it join other houses, or the dwelling-house, then sulphur will not do ; for it not only kills plants, but tarnishes pictures, plate, etc., as well. But, above all, see that the houses are drip-proof. All plants should be housed by the end of September for the simple reason that they are not safe out of doors after that ; and as they begin to show colour they should be slightly shaded. {Sec " Housing.") CHAPTER III. STOPPING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Tlie Object of Stoppins. — By stopping, I must be under- stood to mean pinching out about half an inch of the soft growth from the point or apex of a shoot. The sole object of stopping exhibition varieties is to secure an earlier break than the plant would make naturally, so that it should be forced to bear flowers of the greatest perfection one, two, or three weeks earlier than it would do by allowing it to make its breaks in its own natural way. Unless the cultivator's object be to Stopping Chrysanttiemums. n produce large exhibition blooms and have them in perfection by a certain date the stopping (or "timing'' as it is often called), is absolutely unnecessary, for all chrysanthemums will flower at their usual time if unstopped. Stopping does not mean cutting or pinching off two, three, or CROWN CROWN BREAK more inches of the top, but, as I have said, merely taking out just the leading point, or say half an inch, which compels the shoot to make a break much earlier than it naturally would, and this break brings about exactly the same result as the natural break would. There are so many different types or sections of 24 Tlie Culture of the Chrysanthemum. varieties even amongst the Japanese, that one might write a book upon this one point of stopping only. But I will name a few of the very best varieties, the different methods of timing them, and the buds preferred, so as to have the blooms at their best by the first or second week in November in the south of England. Growers in the midlands or in the north should stop their plants earlier, or in many cases secure first crowns. {See " The Best 72 Japs for Exhibition.") Tariclies Impro-vrd by Stopping. — I will describe a few varieties which are improved in colour and form by stopping, beginning with Lord Ludlow. If Lord Ludlow is rooted early and allowed to make a natural break, the first crown being then secured, the buds will be ready at the end of July and the flowers fully expanded by the middle of October. But the beautiful deep golden-amber with the red lines would be lacking, the colour Mould be almost a pure yellow, and coarse, broad, long florets with young shoots or other buds would be issuing from the florets or other parts of the flower. If these flowers were manipulated ever so cleverly, and although they might be very large, they could not be compared to a flower a size smaller possessing all its lovely colour and shape. But assuming that the grower had a second plant of the same variety and took out the growing point about the middle of March (according to the locality in which he resides) leaving the strongest shoot (only one) to grow up to the next break — which would be, in fact, the first crown— and again leaving three shoots to grow from that break, then the buds would appear from about August 1 2th to 25th. As a result of this method the flowers would be of the very best quality about the first week in November in the south of England. But another, and, I think, a better way, is to insert cuttings the end of January and grow them on without stopping with one flower only to the plant, in a 7-inch or 8inch pot. The first crown should, of course, be duly secured. Another way would be to insert the cuttings in March, pot them singly when rooted into 3-inch or 4-inch pots, and when they are nicely established (about six inches high) take out the points. Then Stopping Chrysanthemums. 25 when the pots become full of roots transfer the plants into 6-inch or 7-inch pots and grow one flower to each pot. These would make pretty plants for decorative purposes. Other chrysanthemums which do well under the same tfreat- ment are the following :— Godfrey's Pride, General Hutton, Chas. Longley, Le Grand Dragon, J. R. Upton, Lord Alver- stone, Mdm, P. Radaelli, Marquis V. Venosta, Mr. T. Carving- ton, Mrs. A. McKinley, Nellie Pockett (and its sport Cheltoni) Maynell, S. T. Wright, F. S. Vallis, Guy Hamilton, Hpn. Mrs. A. Acland, Mary Inglis, Miss E. Fulton, and the yellow sport " Souvenir de Mme. Bu on,'' Rev. W. Wilks, etc. Another group which can be improved in form and colour are what I will call the. First Crown Group, i.e., those which need no stopping if cuttings i.an be secured early in December If, however, cuttings cannot be secured till January they will most likely require stopping about the first week in May in order to secure a break in time to ensure a first crown bud by the middle of August, for first crown buds should appear by then as they take a long time to finish. Amongst this section may be named Ben Wells, Bessie Godfrey, Duchess of Suther- land, Ethel Fitzroy, Mrs. Geo. Mileham, Mrs. Harry Emmerton, Harrison Dick, F. S. Vallis, Terra-cotta, W. A. Etherington, Coinmonwealth, Countess of Harrowby, George Lawrence, and Henry Perkins. A third group is that which I will call the Natural Second Crown Group. If the cuttings can be inserted by the first week in January (or sooner, if possible), they will make two natura breaks, viz., the first break, the first crown, and the second crown buds will appear about the third week in August under ordinary circumstances. They may, however, throw a prema- ture bud eai'ly ; or in a very hot season they may show the second crown bud in July. Where this is the case they should be allowed to grow on again till another bud forms, which will be a third crown. Mons Chenon de Leche may be taken as an example of this group, or the V. Morel Family ; ' and others which belong to it are Soleil d' Octobre and the ' bronze sport, Lily MOuntford. Lord Salisbury, Mdm. Gustave ., 26 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. Henry, Mr. and Mdm. Louis Remy and all the Mrs. C. H. Payne sports, Matthew Smith and its sport John Fraser, Mrs. Coombes, Mrs. E. Thirkell, Mrs. T. W. Pockett, Sensation W. R, Church, etc. A fourth group which I should say are more difficult to time than any of the foregoing are those which should be stopped the first or second week in April. In some north of England Crown Bud Terminal Buds districts they would probably require stopping in March or the first crown buds should be secured, but in the south if it is a warm season they are best unstopped. Therefore, I should advise growers to ha\e two or more plants of each variety and treat them in different ways. The best \arieties are Mrs. Barkley and the white sport Lady Cranston, Calvat's Sun, Stopping Chrysanthemums, 27 Calvat's 1899, C. J. Salter, General Buller, Mdm. Carnot and its sports, Kimberley, F. A. Cobbold, Leila Filkins, W. Duckham, Miss Mildred Ware, and Mrs. F. W. Vallis. Other ^'arietiris. — There are other varieties which require diflferent treatment from that which I have mentioned in connection with the various groups enumerated, such as Mrs. H. Weeks, Donald McLeod, Mrs. J. C. Neville, Florence Molyneux, Mdm. R. Cadbury, Mrs. Swinburn and its sport, and Dorothy Pywell. These require stopping early in April and the first crown secured ; or they should be rooted in February or March and the first bud which appears duly secured. One other variety I must specially mention, namely, Edwin Molyneux. When this is seen at its best it is magnificent. It is a variety to which a change of stock or a complete change of soil is beneficial. One may grow it in the same soil and from the same stock until it deteriorates so much, that it is condemned as " a bad doer," whereas if plants are obtained from a different district "it seems to grow quite freely and satisfactorily. The best way- to grow this variety is to insert the cuttings before Christmas if possible ; then as soon as it makes its first break leave one shoot only to grow on to the next break, and then the usual three. By growing the one shoot only after the first break all the strength is directed to the one instead of the three stems, and the sun and air have a better chance to ripen the growth. Many other varieties are better grown in this way, especially those which are inclined to show the eye when fully expanded. I cannot see the object of telling my readers the exact date to secure the buds of certain varieties. There is no advantage in saying such-and-such a variety should be secured on such and-such a date. If the bud is not visible on that date how can it be secured ? My object in stopping plants at a certain date (if they experience the usual weather) is to make them produce these buds at or about the right time. Again, we may get a very hot, dry summer, or a wet, cold one. Either will make a difference of a few days in the time the buds will appear. 28 Tlie Culture of the Chrysanthemum. To control the weather is beyond human power. If a bud shows ■ a few days too soon it may easily be retarded, but it would be a mistake to attempt to force it in order to gain a few days. CHAPTER IV. CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN 6-INCH POTS. It^varC Chrysantbemums. — I think the plan of putting chrysanthemums in 6-inch pots first gained prominence by my obtaining First Prize at the Chrysanthemum Show at the Crystal Palace, two years in succession, viz., 1894 and 1895 (when the greater part of the plants were in 6-inch pots, with one, two, or three blooms on a pot), and also First Prize at the N.C.S. Show in October, 1894. Since that time dwarf plants have been commonly grown in nearly every garden, and may be had (by selecting certain varieties) from eighteen inches to four feet in height, with flowers as large as the pots they are grown in, and foliage hanging over the pots. Jfletliodi* of Culture. — There are many methods which may be pursued in the production of these handsome dwarf specimens. The first is to insert the cuttings at the end of March or the beginning of April, in boxes, so that a square of glass may be laid over them to keep them close until rooted (a herring-box is a capital thing). The box may be stood in a greenhouse or cold frame. Fill it half full of soil, the same as that recommended for cuttings, and dibble the cuttings in lines, with a small label to each. When nicely rooted, pot them off into 3 inch pots. When they are about six inches high take out the point to make them break, and when these pots are well filled with roots (which will be towards the end of June or the beginning of July), the shift should be made into 6-inch pots. Pot tolerably firmly, using the same kind of soil as recommended for final potting. One shoot only should be allowed to grow, and the next bud which appears afterwards should be secured from the following :r- Chrysanthemums in 6-incli Pots. 29 Australie and its sports, Chas. Longley, Duchess of Sutherland, Ernest Bettisworth, C.I.V., General Hutton, Godfrey's Pride and Masterpiece, Guy Hamilton, H. E. Hayman, Jane Moly- neux. Lord Alverstone, Miss E. Fulton, and the yellow sport Crown I" Crown^t wincbed here Crown Break plants growing in 6-inch pots. Fig. t. Fig. 2. Plant from cutting inserted end Plant from cutting inserted ist of March, and stopped when rooted. Blooming on second crown. of May, taken from an exhibition plant. One of the first break shoots. Souvenir de Mdm. Buron, Mrs. A. McKinley, Mrs. Geo. Mile- ham, Mrs. Greenfield, Mrs. H. Emmerton, Queen Alexandra. Rayonnante, etc. Some varieties must be allowed to make cne more break after being pinched {^see Fig. i), or they may be stopped again b 30 The Culture of tlie Chrysanthemum. the middle of July\ if they do not show a natural break by then These are Chas. Davis and all the V. Morel sports, Soleil d'Octobre and the bronze sport, Kitty Duncan, Mdm. G. Henry, Mrs. C. H. Payne and its sports, especially Mdm. and -M. Louis Remy, Matthew Smith, Miss Lucy Evans, Mons. C. de Leche, Mrs. Barclay and its white sport Lady Cranston, Mrs. T. W. Pockett, Nellie Pockett, Phcebus, Sensation, Souvenir de Petite Amie, W. R. Church, F. A. Cobbold, S. T. Wright, and W. Duckham. A Second MetJiod. — Another way to produce these fine flowering dwarfs is to take cuttings from the large plants after they have made their first break (see Fig. 2), leave the breaks long enough to make a cutting, then root these and grow on as recommended above, only let them make one natural break and secure the next bud. But in the varieties before mentioned, where first crowns are recommended, secure the first bud which appears after rooting them. A 'I hir*l Plan. — A third way, by which pretty little plants may be had in 3- or 4-inch pots, is to grow a few rather large plants and when the buds have been secured cut a notch about eight or ten inches below the bud, slit up the stem a little way (after the manner in which carnations are layered), put a pinch of sand and a bit of moss round this, crack a small pot in half, and tie it round, and fill all up with earth. Keep this well wateied and it will soon be rooted sufficiently to allow of the plant being cut off close to the pot. If plants so produced are stood in a close house for a few days they will keep fresh and green, and make sufficient root to support themselves These make pretty little table plants, or specimens for facing groups. Some .4*1 vantages of Dwarrx. — Theflowers upon small plants very rarely suffer from what is called damping, because the pots, being small, do not hold much moisture ; besides, they are tolerably dry at night, and particularly towards morning when the mischief is done by the sun shining out brightly upon them and scalding the flowers in the larger pots, which are loaded with moisture from the evaporation of C hiysanthemums for Decora 'ion. 3 1 the larger body of soil These plants will not want any stimu- lants until the pots are full of roots. Then treat them in the same way as the larger plants. Many of my readers will think these small pots would require too much attention in watering, but such is not the case. The large plants have to be gone over at least three, and in very hot weather, four times daily ; but twice a day is sufficient for the smaller pots, because they do not get full of roots until August, and then the days begin to shorten and the nights to get more dewy. A very great advantage for these dwarfs is that you can grow three of them in the same space as one large one, and so increase, for your space, the number of varieties to be produced. All the papers were, loud in their praises of the dwarf plants, with such large blooms in such small pots, in the prize groups mentioned abov-c. And all those who visit our nurseries at Earlswood and Merstham, or who have themselves grown dwarfs, are utterly astonished to see such tiny pots carrying such fine blooms and holding their foliage down to the pots. There can be but one conclusion, viz., if you do not try a few plants this way you ought to ; and if you once try it you will never give it up. CHAPTER V. CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR DECORATION. lIo^T to Produce the Best Plant*. — There are many ^ays in which chrysanthemums may be grown for decoration, according to fancy, or the position the plants have to occupy. My opinion as to the best method of growing a pretty decorative ptlant is to insert the cuttings in March, as pointed out in the last chapter, and take out the points when they are established in smkll pots. Then from the pinching take three shoots. Let them grow six inches, pinch them once more, and allow three shoots to grow from each again. Each of these nine shoots should have 32 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. a neat stick, and be allowed to carry one flower. These will be of good quality and colour, and will be sure to please. Or they may be left in sprays. These latter will not be nearly such fine blooms, but they are very useful for cutting or massing, and, by striking late, the foliage is retained down to the pot if the watering is carefully done. Some of these plants would require 7-inch pots, but some could be grown in 6-inch pots. liargc Sp«'ciiiien«. — If large specimens are required they must be rooted as early in December as possible, or even in November, and potted on when ready. After they have grown six inches take out the point; keep them gently growing in every other respect like show varieties. When they have grown si.x inches stop them again, and give each shoot a small stiff stake, tying them out fairly wide and evenly, for this will form the foundation of the plant. Pot them on as they require it so that they may receive no check, and leave three shoots to each break from the pinching. When these shoots are six inches long pinch them again, and from the break leave three shoots to each as before. Contmue the stopping until Midsummer, but not later, for so many pinchings tend to weaken the growths, which must now have time to get strong. By the end of July, or early in August, they will make a natural break, when three or four shoots may be left from each break. '■'raining the Sliooti*. — Great care must be taken to prevent the shoots from snapping or splintering off, and the cultivator must decide as to how he will secure these shoots and in what shape he will train the plant. Some prefer staking them out evenly all round If this is done monster plants result from some varieties, six to eight feet through. Some again train or tie them all one way for going back against walls, some to form large pin-cushions, some pyramids. In each case they look very pretty. For training, a hoop of rather stout wire must be fixed beyond the rim of the pot by securing four sticks to the top of the pot thus and the wire round them. For pyramids, a stout stake must be placed in the centre of the pot the height lequired, and thin wire or string stretched from the top of the Early Flowering Chrysanthemums. 33 stake to the circular wire at regular intervals. A stiff wire hoop should be placed half-way down to support these wire or strings, or the bending of the shoots will pull them out of shape. Then the shoots may be tied so as to distribute the points evenly all over. The last tying should be dore soon after the buds are secured, and before the growth gets too stiff. If left too late, the flowers will not grow upright, and so look unnatural. When the plants are housed they should have a position where the light is equally diffused all round or they will draw in a one-sided way. If the plants are to be trained to an oval, or cushion shape they must have several stakes evenly distributed, about the height required, and wire or string attached from the hoop to the sticks in several places, sufficient for all the shoots to be tied to. Tie them all over evenly as for the pyramids. Half-pyramids, or fan-shapes, are often trained for standing back to walls. They look as if a pyramid were cut down the middle. This is easy of accomplishment by bringing all the growths to one face. Thus trained Pompons or Singles are very pretty, and are often used for standing on shelves. You get a mass of flowers all to the front in this way. CHAPTER VI. EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUM.S. General Remarks. — In writing about Early Flowering Chrysanthemums it must be understood that I apply the term to those plants which are adapted to out-door cultivation and which bloom in the open air. There are several sections including Pompohs, Japanese, a few Singles, etc., and they are becoming one of the favourite flowers for borders. This is not to be wondered at considering the quantity of blooms which each plant produces, the great variety of colours, and the long time which they last when cut. But it is the ease with which early flowering chrysanthemums can be cultivated that has D 34 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. helped to make them so universally popular. They flourish in towns as well as in the country. They may be planted in the kitchen-garden to make their growth in the summer and after- wards dug up and potted or planted in the bed or border just before they flower, or they may be shifted even while they are in full bloom. Indeed, if they are given a good soaking the day before they are removed, and another soaking after they are planted, one would hardly know they had been shifted. Inserting the Cutting*. — The early flowering varieties need not be propagated so soon as the large-flowering Japs, etc. If the cuttings are inserted during February or March it is quite soon enough for general purposes ; in fact, plants which are rooted at this time do better than those rooted earlier and allowed to get " leggy '' and stunted. They then make nice little plants ready to be planted out during May. In preparing the ground for them it is desirable if it can be dug two spits deep, or as deeply as is possible, but in doing this I would not advise bringing the bottom spit to the top if it should be of a clayey nature. But otherwise deep digging is beneficial, not only to chrysanthemums, but to all flowers alike — and any land which will grow vegetables will grow chrysanthemums. Planting Out.— May is undoubtedly the best time to plant them out, although they are fairly hardy ; but if they should be planted out in April, and there are signs of frost, it would be well to cover them over with a flower-pot at night. After they have started to grow nicely they should have their points taken out, so as to make them bushy, and again when they have made six inches of growth if it should be the object of the cultivatoi to have them very bushy. Many varieties grow naturally bushy, and need no stopping, especially the Pompons, Canari, Anas- tasio, Mignon, Flora and White Flora, Mr. Selby and the sport Mrs. E. Stacey, Maggie Boyes, Piercy's Seedling, L'Ami Con- derchet. La Vierge, Golden Beauty, Mdm. Jolivart, etc., are some of those which need no stopping nor any stakes | and should anyone wish for a selection for bedding during the end of August, and through September and October, the listl have given offers a good choice, Early Flowering Chrysanthemums. 35 A Iiist of Varieties. — There have been so many good large early flowering chrysanthemums introduced recently that many of the older ones will soon have to be discarded, as the general wish is for varieties which begin to bloom in September. And although they begin so early, they invariably continue until they are cut off by the frost. Yellows. — Some of the best of recent introduction are Horace Martin , Carrie, Maggie, Craigmillar (very dwarf), Godfrey's Pet, Mdm. Liger Ligneau (very large and good for disbudding). Miss Ruth Williams, Miss B. Miller, Yellow i^oy, Jason, Vivian Prince, The Champion, Pluie d'Or, Market Yellow, and Mytchett Beauty. Whites. — Mytchett White, Market White, White Marie Mass^, Queen of the Earlies, Roi des Blancs, Champ de Neige, La Parisienne, White Pet, Mytchett Geiji, Parisiana, and Doris Peto. Boule de Neige, Nivette, and White Quintus are splendid pure whites for early October. Crimsons and Deep Bronze. -Goacher's Crimson, Crimson Marie Masse, Mrs. Tom White, Irene Hunt, Gertrude Hobbs, Pergolese, -Roi de-Precoces, Jules Mary, the Sparkler, and Mrs. E. V. Freeman. Orange Shades. — Poll)', Orange, Harmony, Maggie McLeod, Orange Masse, Orange Pet. Le Pactole, Harry Cover, and Ettie M ilchell for October. Terra-cotta Shades. — Cactus, Rosie, Bouquet Feu, Mdm. R. de , Molmain. Pink and Blush Shades. — Harold Oliver, Mytchett Pink, Kye- croft Pink, Mrs. W. A. Hobbs, Marjorie Meakins, Chas. Jolly, Mdm. M. Masse, Mdm. C. Terrier,. Mrs. Wingfield, Kitty, Blush Beauty. Salmon, Apricot, Old Gold, and Cerisb Shades.— Gertie, Meduse, Mr. Bournisien, Paul Valade, Sam Barlow, Harmony, and • Ernest Mathieu. -Claret and Purple Shades. — ^Jimmie, Chateau St. Victor, Mons. Geo. Mennier, and Rubis. Other Varieties of Various Shades. — Mons. Dupuis, Cranfortl White, Arthur Crepey, Gladys I. Harkness, Langford Duncan, Mrs. Geo. Hill, Rabble Burns, Ralph Curtis, and Mrs. A. Willis. D 2 SINGLES AND FEATHERY MUMS, Single Chrysanthemums. 37 CHAPTER VII. SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Their Popularity. — These are becoming general favour- ites, and admired by all ; and it is a matter of wonder that they were not more readily taken to years ago. They are so graceful and light that for vases or table decoration they have few equals, especially during the autumn and dull winter months. I Jiave raised and distributed/ a good many singles, although a few years ago I was told (o throw them on the rubbish heap, as there was "not enough money in them." However, I felt certain that others would come to see them as I did, so I per- severed, and now we sell more singles than we do incurved, reflexed anemones, ^nd pompons combined. Some say singles do not pack well, bjjit I find that they are much easier to pack for travelling to shbws than any other section, and by taking off a little of the foli^e they last a long time. It is a pity to disbud the small floweriiig singles, although with some of the larger flowering kinds, one good perfect flower is preferable to what would otherwise ^be a cluster of deformed blooms crowding each other out of shape. From October to February.-Some sorts of single chry- santhemums begin flowering in October, others follow' oii^ and flowers can be had up to the end of February. When cut, certain varieties will shoot out below, give a number of small sprays, and keep flowering away for some time. These can be grown n many ways — as bush plants, or trained specimens, in the same way as advised for others. I would recommend all who have • a few spare feet of ground to plant singles for cut flowers out of doors ; or they may be lifted and plunged in the greenhouse, or potted and brought in after the lairge flowering ones are over. These heed not be propagated early — say in March. Plant them out in any odd spaces which require filling up (not under trees). They will stand a few degrees of frost. Each plant will require a stake. Pinch them occasionally if they are making long breaks, and loop them to the stake to prevent the wind from blowing them about. This is nearly all one need trouble about. SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUM ; LADY MAUD DOUGLAS. Single Chrysanthemums, 39 Ho^v to Grow Single*.— The best way to grow singles is to root them in; March ; pot them when rooted ; pinch them when five or six inches high ; leave three shoots to grow about five or six inches ; then pinch again, and leave three shoots to each as before. Let these grow, and you will get a plant in a 7-inch pot (which is quite large enough) with nine lovely sprays. If you want large flowers, disbud them to one on each shoot. But the small flowers look better in sprays. Some varieties are very dwarf, and only grow from eighteen inches to two feet. Miss Rose, Miss Mary Anderson, and many of the small sorts, are better left with as many shoots as they will carry, and they will be a mass of bloom. Singles should alWays be let go on to the terminal bud, for you then get the natural colour and pure single flower. If they are taken on the crown, or second crown, the colour is not good, and you sometimes get semi-double flowers. When you have cut the sprays, do not throw the plants away, nor cut them down too close, and they will shoot out and give you an abundance of small sprays. These will be very useful after Christmas. Very dwarf plants can be had by rooting four cuttings in a 4-inch pot in July. Tops of growing plants are best. Leave them to grow and flower in these pots. Do not disbud them, and you will get pretty little plants less than a foot high. Single varieties require good soil, in the same way as the others, and the treatment is .similar to the decorative varieties. After Flo ^vering. — When your large Japs have finished flowering and you want a little more show, dig up these bushes and pot them. Water them in ; sprinkle them overhead once or twice to prevent flagging, and you will soon have another display, which will be an entire change ; indeed, I very much doubt if they will not be more appreciated even than the larg^ flowering varieties. But it -is quite probable that they will be affording you so many cut flowers that you will not want to dig them up. However, if a sharp frost should occur, it would be as well to put a few sticks amongst them, and" hang mats over them, although they will stand five or six degrees of frost -and look none the worse for it in the morning. 4° The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. I>l8t of Cood VarieticB.— Single varieties should only have two rows of florets ; but the pure singles are the prettier. Some of the dwarfest varieties are : — Annie Tweed, Crimson EARLSWOOD BEAUTY. Gem, Disraeli, Earlswood Terra-cotta, Ladysmith, Miss A Holden, Miss Mary Anderson, Miss Rose, Mrs. Baillie, Mrs J. Ferguson, Mrs. John Piatt, Felix, Paris Daisy, Nora, Sir George Bullough, and Yellow Jane improved. Pompons for Exhibition. 41 Among the best singles for cut flowers are the following :— Clibran's Terra-cotta, Daisy, Dorothy, Earlswood Beauty, Edith Pagram, Emily Wells, Framiield Beauty Golden Star, May Jeal, Miss A. Holden, Miss Mary Anderson Mrs. Brown Potter, Mrs. H. Herbert, Mrs. J. Ferguson, Oldfield Glory, Purity, Rev. W. E.Renfrey, Robert Morgan, Rose Pink, Sir George Bullough, Crown Jewel, Elsie Neville, Emily Clibran, Herbert Hender- son, J. T. Angus, Miss Brown, Mrs. C. Behrens, Mrs. D. B. Crane, Mrs. E. Brigg, Mrs. E. Roberts, Mrs. R. J. Lockhart, Mrs. W. Bramwell, Nora Davies, Oldfield Gem, Pretoria, Sir R. Buller, Victoria, and Treasure. CHAPTER VIII. POMPONS FOR EXHIBITION. Culture. — Pompon chrysanthemums should be grown in a similar way to the large flowering varieties, but they should not be rooted before January. Grow about eight or nine on a plant; an 8-inch pot will be quite large enough. The buds will not require to be secured until quite the end of August, or up to the middle of September, as terminal buds produce the Isest flowers. Crown buds come too coarse, and devoid of that bright colour which terminals have. When grown for specimen plants, pompons require the same treatment as decorative or single varieties. For conservatory decoration they may be rooted later, say, the end of March or even up to the end of April, and nice plants may be grown in from 5- to 6-inch pots. The treatment is the same as for single varieties. \AnX ofVarieties* — Some of the dwarfest varieties are : — Adele Prizette, Alice Butcher, Eynsford Gem, Florence Carr, Marabout, Mdlle. Martha, Golden Mdlle. Martha, Cedo Nelli (and its sports). President, Pygmalion, Rubra Perfecta, Soeur Melaine. 42 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. Some of the best exhibition pompons are : — Adele Prizette, Black Douglas, Croesus, Elsie Walker, Eynsford Gem, Florence Carr, Golden, Mdlle. Martha, Maid of Kent, Mdlle. E. Dordan, Prince of Orange, Perle des Beauties, Toussaint Maurisot, St. Michael, and W. Westlake. Little Pet, Purity, Snowdrop, Primrose League, Miss G. Waterer, and Pygmalion, have very small flowers, and are pretty for cutting. These should not be disbudded. Some of the best anemone pompons for exhibition are : — Aglaia, Antonius, Briolas, Calliope, Ernest Carr, Eugene Lanjaulet, Marguerite de Coi, Mdm. Sentir, Mr. Astie, and Sidonie. CHAPTER IX. ANEMONE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Decorative Uses. — Since the single flowering varieties of chrysanthemums have become more popular, the anemones are losing favour, although some of the brighter colours look very pretty in large vases. ^Vhat can be more lovely than a vase of Descartes, Lady Marguerite, and Miss Annie Lowe? Inter- mingle long sprays of these in a large vase and note the result. Lovely by day, they are more lovely still under artificial light. I admit -that they do not pack so well for, travelling. If the florets chance to get a little crushed or become displaced they do not shake so readily into their places again as do the looser Japanese. But for home decoration they produce flowers in as great abundance as any section. A few other good ones for cutting in sprays are : — Dame Blanche, Mdm. C. Lebosqz, James Weston, Mdm. Robt. Owen, Mrs. C.J. Salter, Thorpe junr., Fabian de Mediana, John Bunyan, Marsia Jones, Mrs. H. Gardener, Mrs. Caterer, Owen's Perfection, Rider Haggard, Sabine, Surprise, and W. W. Astor. Some of the Be>t. — Some good exhibition anemones The Housing of Plants. 43 are:— Dame Blanche, Delaware, Descartes, Grand Alveole, Juno, John Burns, Mdm. C. Lebosqz, Mrs. Harry Eland, Mrs. J. Benedict, Mrs. Shimmins, Nouvelle Alveole, W. G. Drover, and Thorpe junr. Good Japanese anemones are: — Halcyon, La Ghalonaise, John Bunyan, Minnie Chate, Mrs. P. R. Dunn, Mrs. H. Gardener, Owen's Perfection, Queen Elizabeth, Robin Adair, Sir Walter Raleigh, Souvenir de Dorothy Souille, Souvenir de Norgiots, Souvenir de Mdm. Blandiniere, Surprise, Tam O' Shanter, and W. W. Astor. The treatment required for the successful cultivation of ane- mones is the same as that for Japanese and incurved varieties. CHAPTER X. THE HOUSING OF PLANTS. Uaeful Hints. — Housing the plants should be completed by the end of September, as it is not wise to run any risk after having got so far. In low-lying distiricts the plants must be housed a little sooner than those on the hills, fogs and early frosts being more troublesome. Every grower has to arrange his plants according to the accommodation at,his disposal ; therefore that must be a matter left pretty much to himself. But, having cleaned the house, next clean the plants by taking off all decayed or partly-decayed leaves, and tap the plants well with the hand to dislodge any caterpillars or earwigs, and syringe or spray them. Begin the housing by taking the tallest plants in first, for a gale may come on and make sad havoc among them at any time, and, of course, the tallest suffer most. Any that have Shown colour should first be put under cover ; then the matter of arrangement afterwards is greatly simplified... It is no use advising every grower to have his blooms about a foot (or 44 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. any particular distance) from the glass, because the flowers are grown for the enjoyment of the cultivators, and they must be so placed that they may be seen to the best advantage. The individual blooms may now be tied out to prevent contact with each other when fully expanded. Such contact would greatly mar their symmetry. If the flowers have weak stems a slight stick should be tied close under the bud, and down the stem, so as to keep them erect, especially if they are for exhibition, for then the flowers open much more evenly. If, when housing, any varieties show signs of being a little too early, they must be placed in the coolest and most shady spot ; or if not early enough, moved to the warmest one. Either of these arrangements may make a difference of a day or two one way or the other, but not more. Fumigation.— After the house (or each house) is filled, and the foliage is perfectly dry, choose a still night, and shut the house up close, any time after the sun is off the glass, and give it a thoroughly good smoking. I like the nicotine fumi- gator the best ; it is cheap and safe, and XL All Vaporiser would be found efficient. The ventilators should be opened again as soon as all the fumes have cleared away, or from four to five hours afterwards. Ventilation. — After the plants are housed, the top ventilators should not be' closed, except for smoking the plants or to keep out heavy fogs ; but the side ventilators should be shut at nights, to prevent the damp air from drawing in at the bottom and going out at the top, resting on the blooms midway. This is_ what happens if the side venti- lators are not closed. It is better to put on a little fire-heat, so that the plants may have a small amount of warmth, and plenty of air. A slight shading when the flowers are opening is beneficial, especially to the dark coloured varieties. There should be no danger of damping, or scalding — that is, if the watering is done carefully and before mid-day. ^Vatering and Manuring.— The watering should, on no account, be done after three o'clock, so that everything may be dry before dark. The plants want but very little water ANOTHER FINE SINGLE.' KITTY BOURNE. 46 The Culttire of the Chrysanthemum. for a few days after they are housed. In fact, it makes one feel as if something were going wrong with them, so per- sistently damp do they keep, especially those in large pots ; but patience will bring everything right. Some cultivators say, " Do not use any stimulant for a few days after the plants are taken indoors." This is quite right, since the stimulant is given in water, and as I have said, they require scarcely any water. From the time they are housed, I use nothing but very weak guano water (pure Peruvian guano) — not more than a teaspoon- ful to two gallons of water. This I use at each watering. It is of a more drying nature than anything else I know. Any kind of manure containing salt, or which will create moisture, should be very carefully used after housing ; and I would advise those who have not a thorough knowledge of the constituents of their manures, to use guano. This may be applied until the flowers are nearly expanded. Shoiv Blooms. — If any blooms are required for show, and are likely to be a week too soon, cut them two days before they are fully out. They will come up if they are put in water, and placed in a dry, dark, cool place. They should be cut with stems about a foot or more long. Strip off all the leaves, put the stems into glass bottles, nearly full of water, and use wadding to prevent the moisture from escaping from the bottles. It is much easier to keep a flower a week than it is to push it to gain a day. Chrysanthemums do not like being forced. A flower is at its best when it has all the centre florets well up, and none of the lower florets have began to decay. To obtain this should be the aim of each exhibitor, and if the flowers are otherwise well grown, he will not have much to fear. But with Japs it is better if necessity arise to pull out a few short undeveloped florets from the centre, provided there are plenty left to shake into their places, rather than lose the long, drooping, lower petals from decay. With incurveds it is different. If their centres are not pretty well up the half-grown petals have to be pulled out, and the core gouged out also in order to get the long florets to meet in the centre Staging Flowers for Exhibition. 47 with a view to the manufacture of a good bloom out of half of one. But flowers so manipulated never gain high honours. Unless an exhibitor is hard pressed for a bloom to make up his number, such immature specimens are better left on the plants, either for a future show or decorative purposes. CHAPTER XI. STAGING FLOWERS FOR EXHIBITION. Tbe Method — [n staging flowers for exhibition, there are three things in particular to be considered. They are as follow : — Firstly, nice, clean, bright, deep-green boards, enamelled some few days previous to the show. Secondly, the colours of the flowers must be nicely blended, sc as not to get two of one colour together. Try to arrange the colours so that each bloom will brighten and show up its neighbour. It may be useful to remember that colour is greatly heightened by contrast, and that artists in their pictures secure the greatest brilliancy of colour by the observance of this rule The contrasting colours are red and green, orange and blue, yellow and purple. Place a. yellow and a purple chrysanthe- mum side by side. The longer you look at them, the more yellow will the yellow appear, the more purple the purple. Thirdly, see that the board is pretty evenly filled, so as not to get two small flowers together, or two large ones. Different exhibitors have different opinions about staging their flowers. Some put all' drooping flowers in the front row, and all the monsters at the back, and the weakest flowers in the middle row, thinking, perhaps, they will not be so much noticed if they are hidden a little. But do not try to deceive the judge. He is bound to find the worst as well as the best flowers. Cutting Blooma. — Flowers are better if cut in the morn- ing, before the sun strikes them. Stems about a foot long A SPECIMEN 'APANESE BLOOM. Staging Flowers for Exhibition. 49 should be eft to them. Strip off all the leaves and put the stems into bottles of water, or something that will keep them upright. They may then be cupped up at your leisure during the day. This should be done in a rather cool place. Before you commence cutting the blooms, it is as well to run round and see what blooms are ready. Dot out your board on a piece of paper, with the number of flowers you want, e.g., twelve dots to represent the holes. At each hole put the name of the flower with which you intend to fill it. This will save you cutting more blooms than are actually required ; but at the same time, an extra bloom should always be taken with each dozen, in case of an accident, and this should be different from any on the board. In cupping the flowers, do not press the florets up to try to gain width for them, because from a Show point what you gain in width you lose in depth, and depth is more valuable than breadth ; for the most graceful bloom is that possessing handsome drooping florets. Cupping. — The size of any cup or wire must not exceed three inches. If the flowers have grown upright and evenly they will not require anything but the cups under them ; but if they have grown one-sided, a small splint must be run up close under the flower, and tied tightly to the stem. For plugging the flowers in the cups, I cut pieces of the stem into wedges about two inches long. When each flower is cupped up, it should be put into the water-tube, and placed in its position on the board, and so on with the others. When ali are so far ready, a little rearrangement may be necessary to make each flower appear at its best ; for if you have really good blooms, it is a pity to lose a point by bad arrange- ment. On the other hand, if your blooms are not really first- class, you may win a point by setting them out to the best advantage. And at ariy rate, if you do not obtain premier honours you will gain some satisfaction and possibly benefit by taking a good survey of all the First Prize exhibits, going home with a determination to do better another year. Entering at SIio -««'■. — If it is your first attempt at showing, do not enter in a larger class than you are able to 50 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. manage. It may be an easy matter to get twelve good blooms, when it may be difficult to get twenty-four. Young exhibitors should not be disappointed if they do not happen to gain all First Prizes at the outset. Old hands are pretty well contented if they can manage to figure in the first three, in a strongly contested class. Many novelties are introduced each year. Some are really grand, and add materially to an exhibit; but exhibitors must not run away with the idea that merely because they have new varieties, they are of necessity going to gain extra points, unless the specimens are superior to older varieties. A badly grown novelty will not compare with an older variety well grown. Chrysantlieinuins in Vasea. — The exhibition of large Japanese and incurved chrysanthemums in vases has become a very popular method of staging flowers. Everybody must confess that it is an improvement when the blooms are properly arranged — with vessels proportionate in size to the flowers, and plenty of foliage drooping quite down to or below the top of the vase. But taste and judgnient are necessary. To see three or five large flowers stuck into a small vase, and, perhaps, stood upon lattice-woik stages, or, maybe, the flowers so crushed together that they do not show to advantage, is not the way to display the blooms ; on the contrary, the boards would be a better way of exhibiting them. Arrangement* — In arranging chrysanthemums in large vases one must bear in mind that if it should be a show of more than one day's duration the flower stems will not supply sufficient sap to keep the bloom and foliage from flagging, especially in a warm dry atmosphere ; therefore it is (or should be) admissible to strip the foliage from the stem which bears the flower, and tie another stem with foliage to the flower stem. By this means one stem will supply the flower and the other the foliage with sufficient water or sap to keep each fresh for two or even three days. Hozv to Pack Chrysantheinmns. 51 CHAPTER XII. HOW TO PACK CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Tbe Best Method. — Packing large flowers on long stems for travelling is undoubtedly a question which puzzles many exhibitors. In America, and France, all chrysanthemums are shown with long stems, and I have seen some novel methods of packing the flowers. I have taken flowers long distances, and I have packed them to travel long distances, the longest, so far, being to New York ! The last-mentioned were despatched from our nurseries on a Friday, and left Liverpool on the Saturday ; and the following Saturday afternoon they were exhibited in a great show at New York. I was assured that when displayed they looked as fresh as if they had been packed only the day before. On another occasion some of my flowers were exhibited after being packed eleven days. The best method of packing flowers which are intended to travel a long distance may be briefly described as follows : — When the flowers are quite dry, viz., when there is no damp- ness upon them, take each one and hold it bloom downwards. If you are obliged to pack unassisted, hold the stem between your teeth. Then take a sheet of tissue paper, tear it nearly in half, and put the paper over the flower. In doing this draw all the petals together just close enough that they will not move. Then twist the paper lightly over the top of the bloom, and lay the flower gently in the box so that it cannot move. I may say that when the papering operation is finished, and before laying it in the box I always sharpen the stem slightly, taking off all knots, and slip it into one of my patent india-rubber tubes. This supplies sufficient water to keep the flowers fresh for a long journey. E 2 52 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. CHAPTER XIII. CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR MARKET. The Best Floivers ATecessary. — The growing of chrysanthemums for market is really a question of £ s. d. rather than anything else, and is a very serious matter for beginners who know little or nothing of the trade. Chrysanthe- mums are produced by the acre by some growers, being planted out in the open, whilst others raise them by thousands in pots, and try all manner of schemes to get the produce a week, or even a few days earlier or later than their neighbours. Such growers are keen men of business, and are always on the look- out for any really good, bright-coloured varieties, and are pre- pared to pay a long price for them, too. Furthermore, the classes of customers for whom they grow them differ con- siderably, and the various markets differ as much. There is no doubt but that many of the best markets can take an enormous quantity of first-class flowers, and these are generally fairly remunerative. By first-class, I mean, good, bright, distinct colours, disbudded to specimen blooms and nicely packed, so that they look as fresh when taken out of the boxes as when they were despatched. Many people grow their flowers well, and spoil them in packing. Generally speaking, the " rough and tumble " produce is left on the market until the last, being eventually knocked off to costers, and bringing a very low price to the g'rower. Good Colouring.— Do not grow a lot of washy, dirty colours, which are neither whites, pinks, reds, nor any other shade ; but grow the best whites, pure pinks, reds, crimsons, gold, bronze, or yellows. These distinct colours are sure to suit some of your customers. Do not grow varieties that want a stick to each flower to keep it upright. Again, if you want your flowers to pay, they must be good Chrysanthemums for Market. 53 too. Medium class stuff is always plentiful and cheap, and an over-supply generally on hand. But if a florist has some- thing really choice on show, good in colour and a fair size> he can command a good price for it, sufficient to allow of a profit for himself and the grower as well. And the grower soon gets applications from him for a fresh and regular supply, and so a profitable agreement is come to between them. For the best florists do not depend entirely upon the markets, but prefer to procure their flowers direct from the growers, thereby receiving them in the freshest possible condition. Hovr to Raiae Jllarket Tarietiea* — We must com- mence with early flowering varieties. When these have done flowering, a sufficient quantity of the old stock should be dug up. Cut the old stems to within six inches of the ground ; clean away any decayed leaves, or anything which may cause decay. Plunge these pretty closely together in frames, or the end of a cold house, or any place where they can be kept above freezing-point. In February take the cuttings which have grown clean away. Do not grub them out of the soil. A cutting two or three inches long is ample. Dibber these (not too thickly) into boxes of fine soil, and a little sand. Place them in a gentle heat, and sprinkle them to keep them from flagging. They will speedily make root. As soon as they are rooted, and before they begin to run, stand them out into cold frames. Keep these closed for a few days. Then begin to allow air, and when they show signs of growing, take out their points. Give them air on all favourable occasions in abundance. They will stand in these boxes Until April'or May, and become nice ittle sturdy bushes. Towards the end of April the ground where these are intended to be planted should be got ready for the operation. Many growers draw out drills as if for planting peas (about eighteen inches apart), and place the plants in these. They are thus sheltered somewhat from the wind. By the beginning of May planting may commence in earnest where large batches have to be put in, and they should be inserted about' fifteen inches apart in the rows. It is better to plant 54 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. them in beds of four rows, leaving two and a half feet pathways between the beds. Pot Plants.— For plants which are intended to be grown in pots, soil should be used similar to that which is recommended for other work (see Chap. XIV., "Soil for Potting"). But that which has grown cucumbers the previous season has of necessity to be substituted by florists. When this is ready you may get a box of plants. Tap each side on the bench to loosen the roots from the sides all round. Toss the plants clean out of the box on to your soil on the bench. Each plant can then be taken off with quite a nice ball, and the roots will draw out without injury. Pot them fairly firmly (I need not go through all the crocking process, florists know how to do that) ; 6-inch pots should be used for the best, and 5-inch for the next best plants. The worst should be thrown away. When potted, stand them close together in a cold frame ; or they may be protected out of doors if frames are scarce. Give them a good watering with the rose on the can. Shade them a little for a few days if the sun is very bright. Cold, cutting winds are their worst enemies. They give them a check, and these checks are favourable to insects. Whether the plants are in or out of frames, they should not be shaded sufficiently to draw them, but they should be brought up as hardily as possible. They will stand six or eight degrees of frost, especially if they are some- what dry. Do not water in the afternoons if it can be avoided. In the Open. — By the middle of May, the plants, should be stood out in beds, six rows wide, allowing two or three inches from pot to pot each way. If they can be stood on ashes or boards, so much the better ; but if not, clear lime- water should be used occasionally to keep out worms. Do not leave more than three shoots to each plant. A stake two feet long should be put to each, and these shoots should be tied to it. In case a sharp frost occur, these stakes will come in useful for hanging tiffany over, or mats, or any thing which will break the frost. About the middle of June, pot into the flowering-pots. Nine-inch pots will be quite large enough for the best ; 8-inch Chrysanthemums for Market. 55 for the others. If the soil can be made as good as that recom- mended for the large flowering (or Show) varieties, I would advise it ; but the turfy loam has generally by florists to be dis- placed by a substitute from the old rubbish heap. If this has been turned over, and got pretty well frosted, it answers the purpose. By the rubbish heap, I mean the old cucumber soil or anything which has been turned out of pots, and thrown into a heap and has lain for a time. Such soil can easily be enriched by a little rotten manure, a few ground bones, and a good sprinkling of lime and soot. This should be prepared in February or March, and it will be ready when the busy time comes. For twenty or thirty cartloads of stuff cannot be prepared so easily in May or June as it can in winter, and it does not do to leave things till the last minute. In fact, it is much better to get the compost mixed a few months beforehand. The pots should have good drainage, and the plants be potted ■ pretty firmly, or they will develop sappy growth at once. This never gives good flowers. When potted, they may be stood in beds four rows wide, but they must be six inches from pot to pot each way. If room can be spared, I would advise only two rows. Each row must be wired and staked, and if the pots can be stood on ashes or boards so much the better, otherwise the roots get into the soil below, and they receive a check when they are torn away. After the plants have made the next break, three or four shoots may be left to each ; later, at the last break, three again. Then you get from two to three dozen flowers on a plant ; but if you want them extra large do not leave so many. The last growths must be disbudded to one flower on a shoot. Of course, watering must be attended to ; but I would advise that all plants be kept rather on the dry side than be over-watered. I would not recommend feeding before the last growth begins ; but then you may feed liberally for it will add wonderfully to the colour as well as the size of the blooms. Florists very rarely have any trouble with flowers damping because they generally leave them to the terminal bud. In this way they get good colours. Bad colours would not sell. 56 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. If pot plants are wanted they may be rooted later and pinched about twice. They may be raised in 6-inch pots, or even 5-inch ; but dwarf and free-flowering varieties must be grown. Staking tlie Plaiita« — Anything that the plants require must be done, and that in the cheapest possible way. Every row must be wired, and each plant have a good stake about the height it will grow to, and this must be tied to the wire. It will save time in the autumn and prevent the plants from getting blown about. All the growths can be looped to one stake, but not bundled together. It is better not to grow more plants than can be attended to thoroughly. After the buds are secured the plants may be rather liberally supplied with liquid manure water : anything will do, only change the nature of it occasionally. ^Vhy Good Plants Pay Bent. — Now for comparison. It would take a large plant from which to pick, say, three market-bunches raised in their natural grow-as-they-like style. In mid-season such flowers would be a drug in the market at threepence a large bunch, and in all likelihood would, not fetch twopence, and perhaps not sell at all. Then you blame your salesman. He cannot help it. But send the same flowers grown as I ad\ise above to the same salesman, and he will sell them at more per flower than he would get per bunch for the others, and have no trouble in disposing of them. These plants would want but very little more attention than those which are grown haphazard. The disbudding during their growth entails some e.xtra labour, which would not, how- ever, cost above one penny a plant more than if they were roughly culti\'ated. Against this your plants do not grow so tall, and they are over and done with sooner ; besides, you get much more credit for your labour, and a fairer living profit. I certainly should not advise any grower to keep many varieties. But of course this is a matter which rests a good deal with his customers. They must be studied most. There are a good selection of early flowering varieties which begin to bloom quite by the beginning of September, and those Soil for Potting. 57 enumerated at the end of Chap. VI. would be an excellent list to choose from. In addition there are the following : — Mons. W. Holmes, Murillo, Nellie Blake, Soleil d'Octobre, and the Bronze sport, Source d'Or, and the Crimson and Yellow sports, Mdm. E. Caignard, Market Red, Souvenir de P. Amie, Mytchett Snowball, and other mid-season varieties ; but the best late varieties are Beauty of Sholing, Christmas Crimson C. W. Payne, Grationopolis, Golden Princess Victoria, Letrier, Mabel Morgan, Mdm. F. Perrin (Framfield Pink), Mdm. P. Rivoire, . Mdlle. Th. Panckoucke, Mathew Hodgson, Miss A. Byron, Miss Edith Davy, Mrs. Jos. Thompson, Modesto, Mrs. C. Bown, Mrs. Greenfield, Niveus, Princess Victoria, Red. L. Canning, R. H. Pearson, Tuckswood White, Tuxedo, Violet Lady Beaumont, W. Duckham, Western King, Winter Queen, Cecil Cutts, Major Bonnaffon, May-Bell, Mdlle. Marie Liger, Mrs. F. Judson, Allmans Yellow, Miss E. Fowler, King of Plumes, Sam Caswell, and Mrs. Filkins. CHAPTER XIV. SOIL FOR POTTING. The Be«t Kind of Soil.— With regard to soil for pot- ting this is really the most particular point in the whole process of growing chrysanthemums, for it is the foundation. I know in many places potting material must be very expensive ; in fact, I find.it so myself. Carting soil eight or ten miles is enough to run up the bill ; but even if it spells extra expense, it is the cheapest in the end to get the best. The soil should be good, heavy, yellow loam, with plenty of fibre in it— that cut from a fine old pasture about three inches thick. Cut during the winter. Do not select ground where daisies grow, for they are seldom found on good ground, as the grass grows too rank for them. In stack- 58 7"^!? Culture of the Chrysanthemum. ing the soil choose an elevated position where the water is not likely to lie and sodden it. Flatten it down, and sprinkle a quarter of an inch of soot over this foundation to keep worms away. Then place a layer of the sods, grass side downwards ; over that about an inch of nearly fresh horse- droppings ; over that soot enough to just blacken it, and upon all a sprinkling of ground bones. Begin again with the loam, and so on until the stack is complete. It is best to draw in slightly all the way up, or make a haystack-like top, so as to keep the wet from penetrating too much. The proportions should be one load of loam, a quarter of a load of short manure, one bushel of soot, and half-a-hundred- weight of ground bones, none coarser than shots or very tiny peas. These are all that need be stacked at this time. In stack- ing it is easy to measure the ground out accurately, for a load of loam is three feet square — twenty-seven cubic feet. Begin then as already suggested, a little wider at the base than you intend to finish at the top, and if the ridge shape is main- tained at the top no covering will be required. Fermentation will proceed gradually, just sufficient to sweeten the whole. Soil for Final Potting;* — About a fortnight or so before this commences chop the whole of the stack of loam to pieces in the following manner : Take cants of about a foot wide and cut them through straight down with a spade. Chop the sods to pieces with a very sharp hoe, by laying them grass-side upwards. I have found this to be the easiest and quickest way. Do not chop the turf smaller than cricket balls, for it will get reduced in turning. When it is all chopped, level it out a foot thick. It is then easy to measure what quantity you have — when it is remembered that twenty-seven square feet, each a foot thick, make one cubic yard. To each yard add four bushels of leaves collected the previous autumn ; a barrow-load of old mortar- rubbish not larger than nuts, or, failing this, fine charcoal ; a barrow load or two of ashes ; half-a-bushel of coarse sand ; and twenty-eight pounds of artificial manure. Thoroughly mix the whole of this together, by turning it over twice at least. Put this into a shed in a nice mound, or cover it outdoors to keep Chrysanthemums on the Continent. 59 off the wet, or, on the other hand, prevent it from getting too dry. In a week's time this will get quite warm ; and the process will not only sweeten it, but kill all weeds. The seeds will germinate and die ; and the whole mass will become impregnated with the ammonia, etc., which the different ingredients contain. Advice to Amateurs. — For amateurs who do not require such large quantities, I would recommend one bushel of loam, cut, if possible, a few weeks beforehand from a rich pasture. To thib add about two gallons of rotten manure, two gallons of oak or beech leaves, two gallons of old mortar rubbish, or charcoal, two gallons of wood ashes, half a gallon of ground bones, and two pounds of artificial manure, made either from blood, bones, fish, or fowls' manure. If the loam has not sufficient fibre a few more leaves may be added, also a dash of coarse sand making about two bushels altogether. This quantity will be sufficient to pot fifteen or sixteen plants into 9-inch pots (i6's). Various makers' pots differ a little in size. CHAPTER XV. CHRYSANTHEMUMS ON THE CONTINENT. lieading Points of Diflerencea — Up to the present, there are not many chrysanthemums grown abroad on the three-large-flowers-on-a-plant principle. The bush system is mostly in vogue. But before I say much about t e foreign methods, I must offer my readers a little explana- tion. In the first place, I felt that to visit some of the best growers abroad with whom I transact business- would en- lighten me as to what they considered the essential points of a good 'mum— points worthy in their estimation of a certificate — because we annually import an enormous quantity which are not up to our standard. Tastes and climate differ we all know, 6o The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. and what may be considered good and flourish across the Channel may not be suitable to our climate ; or again, a bloom which is prized as a lovely colour there, may not be just the fancy here. It goes without saying, I think, that our greatest liking is for large, graceful flowers, whilst foreign growers make bush plants their chief aim. As all experienced fanciers must know, the large show varieties are not always adapted for bush plants. Hence the disappointment. But there are other marked differences besides the system of cultivation adopted. Our Continental friends do not exhibit their flowers on boards as we do ; such blooms as are exhibited in a cut state are shown in bottles, with a foot or so of stem and foliage. A single stem is inserted in a bottle, and the bottles are then plunged into beds of sand or light earth. These beds are all turfed round, and each exhibitor's collection forms a perfect flower garden, beautiful indeed. It must entail an enormous lot of work and forethought to arrange exhibitions. 'JHums at tlie Paris Exliibltioa.— The chrysanthe- mum show at the great exhibition held in Paris in 1900 was very fine, and what struck visitors most in connection with it was the resemblance the collections of exhibits bore to a tastefully laid out garden. But that is the custom on the other side of the Channel at nearly all chrysanthemum shows. I do not think, however, that I e\'er saw anything finer than the arrangement at the' Paris show referred to. The French exhibit their plants and blooms in a way that gives the visitor the impression that they have grown out of the earth, cartloads of sand and mould being shot down within the limits of the building where the show is being held, and in this improvised garden the competitors arrange their specimens. The names of the plants are written on labels attached to the stems of the chrysanthemums, and it is therefore difficult when walking through an exhibition to ascertain the names of each flower or plant. In this respect the English practice of exhibiting 'mums on tables and showing the names plainly, is to be preferred. A Great French Grower.— Every chrysanthemum Chrysanthemums on the Continent. 6i grower in England is familiar with the name of Mons. E. Calvat. I found him, on visiting him at his home at Grenoble, an enthusiast ovef the chrysanthemum, kind and genial in manner, and particularly free in imparting information as to French methods of dealing with his favourite flower. M. Calvat flowers his 'mums out of doors. His gardens are situated on the side of a mountain, and are laid gut so as to form terraces one above the other. The chrysanthemums are planted out, three rows to each terrace, and a foot and a half separating each plant. At the date of my visit (August 27th) most of the buds had been secured, or were just ready. Three flowers to a plant seemed to be the regulation number, except in a few cases where plants were grown for cutting for market. Over each of these terraces were light skeleton iron frames, with thin laths in readiness for canvas to be drawn over them to protect the flowers from rain, etc, whilst they were in bloom. Many of the beds were filled with seedlings ; others with specimens on their first or second year's trial. None of M. Calvat's plants exceed five feet ; in fact, there were very few which had reached that height ; nevertheless, the wood was as hard as sticks, and not much stouter than a lead pencil. Many of the varieties attain nearly double that height with us, and when I mentioned the fact, M. Calvat was quite surprised, saying it was his aim to distribute only dwarf varieties. But when we reflect that these French raisers only plant out small plants in April (as their climate does not impose the necessity of such a long growth as ours), and that they do not secure any buds until quite the end of August (otherwise they do not open kindly), the more dwarf habit is accounted for. This difference between the French and English time for securing the buds is in accordance with experience on this side of the Channel, as evidenced by the many hard buds which have resulted in England after hot, dry seasons. 62 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. ■ CHAPTER XVI. CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AMERICA. Popular Appreciation. — I believe I am speaking well within the mark in saying that comparatively few English people realise the extent of the popularity of the chrysanthemum in the United States. Only those who are in constant com- munication with gardeners and others living in the great country across the Atlantic, or who regularly read the American gaidening papers, know that the flower is regarded there as supreme during the fall of the ysar — that, in fact, it is there admittedly the Queen of Autumn just as much as it is in England or France. The reasons which contribute to this high position of the chrysanthemum in the States are, broadly speak- ing, the same as those which I have given to account for its popularity in England : roses, carnations, and the aristocratic orchid may be had throughout the year, but as November regu- larly comes round these and all other flowers yield pride of place to the chrysanthemum, which arrives at perfection when plant life in general is at its lowest ebb. The enthusiasm for chrysanthemums shows no falling off" ; on the contrary, it may be said to increase more and more every season, and with regard to this I cannot do better than quote an authority upon the subject. Mr. Arthur Herrington, President of the Chrysan- themum Society of America, speaking before the Farmers' Club and Horticultural Section of the American Institute at New York on December 9, 1903, said : — "Without any available figures to substantiate the assertion, it may be stated with little fear of contradiction that the exhibitions held in chrysanthemum time greatly exceed in number the aggregate of the balance of the year, and while their primary object is to display the chry- santhemum in all its variety and perfection of beauty, we are accomplishing something more. In proportion to their patron- age by the general public chrysanthemum exhibitions must surely be an effective influence in promoting the growth of 64 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. floriculture — the love of flowers with accompanying benefits to those engaged in the profession. Have we not in the past taken a too narrow-minded view of the results of our exhibitions , in appraising their success solely on the basis of gate receipts?" So long as this view is held by men of high position in the gardening world there is no reason to fear about the future of chrysanthemum culture in America. Tlie Slew York SIio^v. — The past four or five years have seen a tremendous advance in the cultivation of chrysanthe- mums in the United States ; not only has the flower been more extensively grown, especially in the east, but a higher standard of excellence has been attained. This fact was demonstrated at the great three days' show held under the auspices of the Chrysanthemum Society of America at New York in November, 1903. Until then it had been more or less an open question whether that city would patronise an exhibition on a large scale, but the American Institute, where the show was held, was crowded each evening, and it was proved, as one n'riter described it, that " New York is evidently New York when it likes to get down to business." .As the New York Chrysanthe- mum Show in question was in many ways an epoch-marking event so far as America is concerned, a few observations - regarding some of the blooms exhibited there will not be out of place. The most notable triumph was the chrysanthemum William Duckham, which was awarded chief honours as a novelty. " The flower is a very clear pink colour," said " American Gardening," " and promises well to fill the requirements for a good commercial variety of that colour. Its aniplitude of petals lends a richness of effect that is very pleasing, quite jndepen. ■ dently of the colour tone. As shown by Mr. Duckham, after whom it had been named by the raiser, it attracted attention from all who came near the show. The variety was sent out by Mr. Wells, the famous chrysanthemum grower in England." .\ curious fact may be mentioned in connection with this exhibit. Owing to the disregard of stopping by American growers — who are therefore unable to time their IdIoouis for exhibition ">, r\-,- .■ Pk^ .j^B fe^ss '.*';' * '^ M^>^ ''^^^v ^^ :' • ' ' ■■ ' ''' J 1 ^KL J^i .. -.-.= •';.■.,■^-»^-^^■. ■ .JC-'viSH "^ 4a d S i i ''f ^ ■tiK3s:>^OBd»aBK.irnai2>~ ■pIHKjTj! " 1 t * ^!@*^- ;.r^?^ "^Z^^-^-- -f ./^^ ^■^ pw^ IFIf lU ri"" ■y^-''^'^ "U!.^-. t"/Sl. ^^ i^rJ^Sk 1 '»:\M^-::^ .^ JW'^' IsZ ( mk ■^ "'^ m^mbgf-f r' ', ''!"'"• * ,^ '-'^v- W-^ /J 1^^**^ -H 1 * Ik w*! ' '^': ^'-im bfe^^ ' * ^^Vl ^ml ^ 7 •;■: • ^ ^F ^f'^rS i| i^- M ^ *™ .yjJ^K ^*^^ <»*• ^ar ?p'™w ^^ i ^ -: "^ lJ^ ' ^;«^ Rr ' ^^"'f ■ ^teiv B»^ ® E 4 ^^- -'V' y ^ V . ~-r >&■■•- ,■*.- ^^P- gWI f /J. ;r^;"f|:-^ ■ -«^-'? ^ ^^ ~ '' ^ ^'(f ■>' i ,,JJ\;"^ -^ ^1 ^^^iC"' iHOnw^HPii P .':■'-< '■"'5 BsBP: I^B^^BT^dKii^ P'^ ^ ■Mo ^- . ; / S^^t"^^^ ' / ■ ■ ^^*^'^- .-'^ i . ■>.-*^~^ '.-^ \M ^ a&' i ■ ' .i^- '"'r;L>,' ^ ^■^.- "^: .■^ ■■■■.■ \ "^ -^ ' i^.^E i^a J.'^^S ^^Kdi" "»; '^^1 •s ,3:11 o "2 — " ir3 1^ sis ba • a ;^ c^S 3 « ft! tail's -3 " •■n 5 ij .-Sul* « ~ ^^ — t:; E - S^*< t? w w •^Thr^ W > - ^'p.» 13 j:: aj . „ ._ Q, "^s a** 3 ft* ~ Si CO S 1. •5 "Sb* I q a 66 Tlie Culture of the Chrysanthemum. purposes as is the case in England — the flowers which claimed so much notice had to be cut twelve days before the opening of the ■ show and were kept in a cellar for preservation ! I am pleased to be able to give an illustration of the exhibit. Some of the blooms represented in the group measured nine and a half inches in diameter and six inches deep. The name of Mr. Duckham, who is gardener to Mr. D. Willis James, of Madison, New Jersey, has been mentioned recently more than that of any other chrysanthemum grower in America owing to his success at New York. In addition to winning the Silver Cup with William Duckham he also carried off the special Sweepstake Cup with twenty- five champion blooms. Chief among these were of course William Duckham, and also General Hutton, Ben Wells, Cheltoni, Leila Filkins, Mary Inglis and other immense flowers — in all thirteen out of the twenty-five being blooms introduced by me. Among other flowers of exceptional merit which he showed were Mrs. E, Thirkell, W. R. Church, and many standard varieties equally well known ; and it may be asserted that Mr. Duckham has probably done more to raise the standard of exhibition flowers than any other man in .America. I have mentioned and illustrated Mr. Duckham's blooms because he was so signally successful in an exhibition at which were seen the finest chrysanthemums ever staged in America. But other growers, especially Mr. A. Herrington, also showed grand flowers. I am writing, however, mainly for British cultivators, and therefore need not dwell longer upon the New York Show. It will be seen from the illustrations that the cut flowers are staged in glasses with good effisct, and in this respect the American method of showing differs from that followed in this country. I may, perhaps, be allowed to add that a collection of blooms which I sent over had a favour- able reception, being awarded the Diploma rof the -Chrysanthe- mum Society of America, and meeting with friendly references in "American Gardening," "The Weekly Florists' Review," and other leading journals. .4inerican Cultural lletboda. — It can readilv be Chrysanthemums in America. 67 understood that the methods of culture adopted in America differ widely from those followed in England. To begin with, the climate is not the same, and as terrific rain and wind storms which are prevalent would cause havoc among the chrysanthe- mums if grown in the open air, no matter how securely they were staked and tied, it has been made an essentially green- house plant. / With regard to large flowering varieties intfended for exhi- bition, the plan adopted all over the country is to put good, sharp, clean sand in a bench in the greenhouse or propagating house tothe depth of from four to four and a half inches, packed hard with a brick and well watered. This sand is kept at a tem- perature of from 55 deg. to 65 deg., with house temperature of 5odeg. to 55 deg. Cuttings are then inserted in rows in the sand about one and a half inches apart each way, kept shaded from the direct rays of the sun, and watered as often as is necessary to keep them from wilting. Cuttings so treated will be rooted in from 10 to 12 days, after which they are lifted out and potted singly into two-inch pots. The soil used is light, and the number of cuttings lost averages less than one per cent. Propagating commences towards the end of January, but February is the month in which the main batch of cuttings are inserted. As soon as the plants have started to grow they are placed in a temperature of about 45 deg. to 50 deg., and kept growing steadily until they are big enough to fill four or five-inch pots. This should be from about May ist to loth. Here again the American method differs from the English, for instead of potting on into larger pots the chrjsanlhemums are planted out in a greenhouse, upon raised benches about four and a half or five feet wide and from four to five inches deep. A moderately rich soil is used, and the plants are placed from 10 to 12 inches apart each way. In nearly all cases they are grown to single stems. Of course, some chrysanthemums are grown in pots, but the number is limited, the bench system, as it may be called, being the one generally adopted, and which produces the largest blooms. 68 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. The buds generally show in June when the plants are about 1 8 inches high, and again in July. All buds are, however, pinched until about August loth, after which date a few are secured till the 20th of the month. From this time onwards all are secured as they appear, and, properly tended, will come perfect with a few possible exceptions, including the Morel family. The Australian raised varieties are marvellous in this respect, the buds secured the first week in August being the mainstay for exhibition purposes. Some Good Varieties.— The year 1903 will be regarded in America as a record-breaking year for new varieties which have adapted themselves to cultural conditions and have pro\ed their merit. The following were the most notable successes, together with the sizeof someof the blooms : — (General Hutton, \o\ in. wide by 9 in. deep ; F. S. Vallis, 10 by 8^ ; Leila Filkins, a grand pink, 8 by 7 ; Donald McLeod, Mildred Ware, and F. A. Cobbold, all fine acquisitions ; Guy Hamilton, 9 by 8, a superb variety ; W. R. Church, the grandest of all in its colour, loby 6 ; Maynell, 10 by 8, and S. T. Wright, superb crimsons ; the sensational variety W. Duckham, which won the N.CS. Silver Cup at New York ; W. A. Etherington, Harrison Dick, and Mary Inglis. All the foregoing are such decided advances upon anything produced before in America that when they become better known and distributed there will be a general weeding out of the older varieties. Among the other better known kinds Ben Wells, Mrs. E. Thirkell, Lord Salisbury, C. J. Salter, and Durban's Pride are all in the very front rank ; while Nellie Pockett, Mrs. T. W. Pockett, T. Carrington, Miss H. Weeks, Mrs. J. C. Neville, Merza, Col. D Appleton, Timothy Eaton, Mrs. Geo. Mileham, and Bessie Godfrey represent the highest type of chrysanthe- mum hitherto grown in the United States. Cheltoni, a new introduction, will undoubtedly become a standard variety and be as popular as its parent Nellie Pockett. A large number of European and other varieties are grown, but they either- lack size or substance to place them with the foregoing. Strange to yo The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. say Mrs. Barkley has never done well in America ; its demerit there is that it lacks size, although th& colour is grand. In reterence to feeding, this is generally carried out in much the same way as in England. Many growers spread de- cayed manure over the bench about three-quarters of an inch in thickness towards the end of July, and feeding begins lightly the early part of August, and is continued as the plants in- crease in strength until colour is showing well. market 'Mutna. — I have already remarked that the chrysanthemum is popular in America, and apart from the show blooms the cultivation of varieties for market is very largely followed. There are hundreds of growers who raise from twenty-five to forty thousand plants every year, and thousands of growers who raise from one to twenty thousand, all of which help to supply the demand of the large cities. These are what are known as " commercial flowers," which average in size from three inches up to eight and nine inches. These are sent to the big towns every morning during the season with stems from three to five feet long. Such chrysanthemums realise at wholesale prices from £\ io £,9> per hundred. Com- mercial varieties have good stems, foliage, and substance, and will stand shipping, so that they come out of the boxes in good condition. The favourite colours are good whites, yellows, and pinks, with only a very limited number of mixed shades. The growers of commercial varieties root their cuttings in April and iVIay in the same way as previously described, and plant out in June. Pesta and Diaeaaes. — Apart from the danger from storms, there is an objection to planting chrysanthemums out of doors in America because every insect which comes along does its best to injure them. But even in-doors the cultivator has to fight the insects by constantly fumigating the houses and ceaseless vigilance in other respects. Beside insect pests there are numerous diseases. Powdery mildew often shows itself on the lower and more mature leaves, and may be checked by the application of sulphur. Rust, which first appeared in the United States in the autumn of 1896 at Fitchburg, has since Chrysantheinunis in America. 71 then spread far and wide. This was a year before the disease was first discovered in England (1897). But improved cultural methods have done much to lessen the ravages caused by the fungus and the best growers are seldom troubled with it. Weak stock is most susceptible to it, and wherever it appears the best plan would be to follow the directions I have given in Chapter XIX. respecting fungus. American growers have also experienced trouble from stem-rot. The general characteristics of this disease is a slowfading and withering of the leaves, beginning near the bottom and gradually working up the stem in the same way in which " Golden Wedding " was an example. The flower develops imperfectly or not at all, and the whole plant finally dies. The cause of the disease is a fungus which grows in the stem and fills up the large ducts or vessels through which the water must pass in ascending from the roots. This disease appears most commonly as a result of conditions favouring damping off ; and where young plants are crowded in flats or beds, those in the centre are generally the ones to show the trouble. Care in selecting vigorous healthy stock is the best safeguard against stem-rot. Stopping and Timing. — In my remarks about the New Vork Show I mentioned that the champion blooms having arrived at perfection twelve days before the exhibition had to be kept that time in a cellar. But is there any just cause or im- pediment why chrysanthemums should not be stopped in America as well as in England ? 1 have before me a list of thirty of the best exhibition 'mums, all of which bloom before November ist, while seventeen bloom from about October 20th onwards. Well, no stopping or timing is practised, the first crown buds being secured. But if stopping were adopted {see ".Stopping," Chap. III.) and second crown buds secured American growers should benefit as much as those in England : the bloomss would be more refined and would be ready for exhi- bition during the first week in November. The Culture of the Chrysanthemum, CHAPTER XVII. CHRYSANTHEMUMS SPORTING. Freaks of Nature* — There is a considerable amount of mystery attending the sporting of chrysanthemums, not so much from the fact that they " come " different colours, as that they prove so different in character. In some sports the growth is much more robust, and the flowers altogether better than the parent, as may be seen in the Mdffl. Marie Masse sports, all of which are of more robust habit than the original ; and again in the same way Gustave Grun- nerwald and its sports are of rather stronger growth. But in Parisiana the growth is much sturdier, is fully six inches taller, and is a differently made flower (i.e., incurving towards the centre), while the under florets reflex and the flowers are much more double. And the fact that it is pure white makes it even more remarkable, for as a rule the more delicate the colour the more weakly becomes the growth of the sport. When this last-named variety was distributed by M. Lemaire and pointed out as a sport from G. G runner wald, I could scarcely believe it. But I was quite convinced that it was correct when in 1902 it sported back to its original both in colour and habit, with two or three other shades of pink, blush, and cream, while these have reverted to Parisiana again last season (1903). Families ot Sports. — Another sportative variety is the V. Morel family, which has produced Chas. Davis and Lady Hanham, both being quite as good in habit as the parent. On the other hand, Ethel Amsden is more an oddity than a flower, and I was criticised for introducing it, although it had a fairly big demand. Then came the pure white sport, Mrs. Ritson, which was not nearly so robust as its parent. Again, there was Mrs. C. H. Payne and its various sports, which were all quite equal to the parent, while Mr. Louis Remy Chrysantliemunis Sporting. 73 surpassed all the other sports, by having a more reflexing, as well as a broader, floret. It is a curious fact that sports travel in the same direction— viz., from whites to yellow, from yellow to bronze, from pink to white, bronze, yellow, etc.— and although some kinds are so free in giving sports, others do not sport at all. The beautiful M. C. de Lechd gave a yellow sport which was a miserable weakly grower ; and E Molyneux sported very little better. Australie has given three distinct sports, and the white, Mdm. Herrewege, has florets of such a reflexing type that one would scarcely recognise it as an Australie sport ; in fact many good growers doubted it. Mdm. Camot has given two sports quite equal to the parent, but that which was sent out as a pink was very poor, and I always doubted if it was really a sport at all. Then again Carrie, Tuxedo, Mathew Hodgson, and Niveus have all given sports which are so much notched or fimbriated that they are altogether diflferent from the parent ; while some differ in growth to such an extent that they may be classed as deformities rather than sports. It is also curious to notice how some varieties continue true for a number of years and then sport simultaneously in several places — as, for instance, Mdm. Camot and Nellie Pockett, to yellow. As regards the latter, one or two sports were very weakly growers, while one was stronger than the parent. Altogether, there is room for as much speculation as to the cause of sports as there is to a child bom with two thumbs on one hand. A chrysanthemum which sports is nothing more or less than a freak of Nature — an eccentricity over which we have no control. The latest and by no means the least important sports which have just made their appearance are Lady Cranston, the white sport from Mrs. Barkley, which to all appearance is a better flower even than the parent ; and the yellow sport from Miss Elsie Fulton (Princess Alice de Monaco), named Souvenir de Mdm. Buron, which is a great acquisition. Another to add to the incurved section is a pure white sport from C. H. Curtis, also a white sport from Mdm. M. Masse, a mottled sport from Jules Mary, a yellow Ivy Stark, a bronze, also a yellow 74 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. sport from Lily Mountford, a rosy sport from L. Evans, an old rose sport from Francois Vuillermet, a deep yellow sport from Mons. Gruyer, also a white sport from the same, a bronze, Mrs. E. Thirkell, a yellow Souvenir de Petite Amie, a yellow Mdm- Herrewege, a yellow Mrs. Swinburne, a yellow Charles Longley, a pure white Mrs. Barkley, quite distinct from Lady Cranston, a bronze Bessie Godfrey, a yellow Guy Hamilton, a white Framfield Pink, a yellow from Market White, and an ochre sport from Sir Walter Raleigh. CHAPTER XVIII. SIZES OF FLOWER-POTS. The 'Various measurements. — Flower-pots are gener- ally sold by the cast. The numbers to the cast are : — 2-inch Pots, commonly called Thumbs, 72's. 3 ., „ ,. Small 6o's. 4 „ „ -. Large 6o's. 5 „ ., ,. 48's. 6 „ „ » 32 s. 7 „ „ ., 24's. 8 „ „ „ 2o's. 9 „ ,. » i6's. 10 „ „ „ I2's. The measurements are taken just inside the rim at the top. Pots vary in size in different districts and with different makers, but the above are the recognised sizes in the south of England. Insect Pests and Diseases. 75 CHAPTER XIX. INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES. Enemies of 'lUum Growers — The difficulties of raising perfect chrysanthemums would be considerably reduced if it were not for the ravages of insect pests and the damage which is caused by disease. In this chapter, therefore, I propose to deal with some of the trials the grower has to face from these two causes. And first as to aphides. Aphides — If you succeed in clearing aphides from the top of a plant, they are almost sure to start new colonies under the leaves, or all up the stems ; or if you clear them from there, and they drop to the ground, ants will take them into their holes and cherish them, until they can find them fresh leaves upon Aphides. I ;iTid 2. Male i atural size and magnified, 3 and 4. Female natural size and magnified. which to feed. And of course this is only natural, for the aphides are tlie cows, as it were, of the ants. The exudation from the aphide (honeydew) is sweet, and is a substance on which the ant feeds. Have you ever seen an ant trying to get an aphide from the jaws of a lady-bird ? It is very amusing to watch it ; but Mrs. Lady-bird is always the conqueror, although Mr. Ant uses every artifice to try to induce her to drop her prey. To kill aphides, nothing is better than perseverance with tobacco-powder and 76 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. puff while the plants are outdoors, or fumigating while they are indoors. Thrip. — White thrip is sometimes troublesome to the young growths in dry seasons, but soot-water syringed or sprinkled over the plants will check them. This and an occasional dusting with tobacco-powder, or a good fumigating if the plants are in- doors will effectually destroy the tiresome insects. r" THE EAKWIO. The Ear^vig* — One of the insects with which everybody is familiar is the tcirwAg {For/icula auricularia), for there are few years iii which they do not abound. They are a source of great trouble and loss to gardeners by feeding on the flowers and young shoots of many plants, their favourites being chrysanthemums and carnations. They are very voracious, but feed only at night, creeping into some sheltered place during the day. The best way to destroy them is to trap them by placing in their haunts something into which they can creep Insect Pests and Diseases. 77 and hide. Small garden pots, half-filled with dry moss or crumpled paper; and short lengths of rods or reeds make useful traps. The stems of sunflowers and beans cut into lengths of nine inches or a foot, are admirably suited for this purpose, particularly those of the former as the pithy lining is somewhat sweet. The traps placed among the shoots of the plants which are attacked should be examined every morning, and the insects shaken or blown into a vessel of water with enough paraffin-oil THE GREEN BUG. 20. magnified ; c. natural size. 21. pupa ; d natural size. 27, another species (pale green) ; g. natural size. floating on the top to completely cover the surface with a good film. This will effectually destroy them. Bugs. — Another mischievous insect a chrysanthemum grower has to cope with is the small greenish brown bug, or fly [Calocoris chenopodii), nearly as large as a lady-bird. If one or more of the leading points of a plant are seen to be drooping while the others are fresh and green, depend upon it, one of these tiresome insects is the cause of the mischief ; and if you pass your hands gently up the stem they will run to the top or behind a leaf where they may be caught. They have very sharp piercers, with which they penetrate the soft stem to the centre and the shoot often goes blind, or becomes crippled. As soon 78 Tlie Culture of the ChrysantJieniuvi. as these insects leave the egg they can run about, being fur- nished with legs, horns, etc., like their parents, but they are deprived of the organs of flight. In every stage of their exist- ence they feed in the same manner, but the perfect insects are exceedingly active and can fly well. A brownish-black bug which rejoices in the name of Aphro- 1 UNGUS SI'ORES (i-Iighly magnified). phora a/ni aiso gives a great deal of trouble. .Sometimes for a day or two it is of a red colour, and then it changes its coat. These bugs act in a similar manner to the greenish-brown ones mentioned in the preceding paragraph, except that, when hunted, instead of flying away they drop as if dead. They are responsible for the black spots one gets on the lovely white flowers early in the Insect Pests and Diseases. 79 season ; and they are extremely, difficult to catch amongst the florets. FungUN. — This is a disease which first appeared all over Europe about the month of August, 1897. There spem to be two distinct stages (or crops) of spores. One stage makes its appearance about August, after a sudden change in the tem- perature. The disease if not checked makes rapid progress, for one plant with a few spots will soon distribute millions of spores, and in a few days or weeks spots will be seen LEAF CONTAINING FUNGUS. The above illustration shows a small leaf taken from an out-of-door plant which developed fungus, although it had never been fed or treated in any way, and certainly had not been crowded. in all directions. The fungus spreads very quickly after the plants are housed, if precautions are not taken to check it. The other stage appears just when the cuttings are rooting, or have just rooted. This is no doubt due to the spores which have fallen from the old leaves on to the cuttings below, and lie dormant until the cuttings begin to show life after rooting. Generally it is said that over-feeding is the cause of the fungus, but this is entirely erroneous, because I have seen the worst cases of any, many miles apart, and where they have been 8o Tlie Culture of the Chrysanthemum. growing out of doors undivided for years, and no " fed " plants near them. Another and more feasible explanation as to the origin of fungus is that it is tommunicated by air-borne spores which germinate on the leaf in an analogous manner to a seed grow- ing in the soil. It is therefore necessary to apply preventive measures in the earliest stages before visible signs of disease appear by spraying with some solution which will destroy these spores. When spraying see that all parts, especially the under surface of the leaves, are well wetted ; a spray which stands in globules on the leaves and will not spread is of little use. Remember that thousands of spores, etc., may adhere to adjacent woodwork, and this may with advantage be sprayed with stronger solutions. Remedy for FungiiM. — The fungus is a disease against which chrysanthemum growers have to battle, and as I have had to fight —and have \ anquished — the enemy I recommend with considerable confidence the following methods of dealing with it : — Spray every cutting or plant once a fortnight — from the day the cuttings are inserted or the old plants are cut down — with about a wine glassful of paraffin mixed with one gallon of water, using an Abol syringe with the spray nozzle. If the solution can be kept thoroughly mixed, double the strength may be employed. Then from July 1st spray the under part of the foliage with a dressing composed of the following ingredients : Half-pound each of sulphur, soft soap, soot, and lime. The lot should be boiled for half an hour in one gallon of water ; a half- pint of paraffin should then be added, and the mixture allowed to simmer for a minute or so, care being taken to prevent it from boiling over. The dressing should be allowed to stand till it gets clear, and may be kept in bottles. A quarter of a pint of the dressing may be used to a gallon of water. If, how- ever, the fungus is very bad, and has obtained a hold of the plant, double the strength can be used without injuring the chrysanthemums. IMilde^«'< — This may be completely cured by syringing Insect Pests and Diseases. 8i the under side of the leaves with the mixture that I have recommended for fungus. In fact, if it is used as a preventa- tive for fungus, mildew will not make its appearance at all. Itust or Mould. — This is a kind of fungus known mostly amongst market growers, and is generally seen in plants which are crowded together in beds, sufficient air space not being allowed between them. It attacks some varieties worse than others, and in wet seasons more than in dry ones. The varieties which suffer most are : — W. H. Lincoln, Princess Blanche, Lady Fitzwigram, Mdm. Casimir Perrier, etc. I have seen plants perfectly healthy and green on Monday, with a few black spots on Tuesday, nearly every leaf black by Saturday, and by the Monday again — ^just a week from the attack — not a green leaf left— nothing but the stems and buds,; the latter failing to swell afterwards. I do not know any cure for this disease except it be the observance of the precept, " Don't overcrowd." r.ear mining MCaggot.— This is a very troublesome insect which attacks celery, marguerites, chrysanthemums, and other plants. The best remedy is to prevent the fly from settling upon the plants to lay its eggs, and this can be done by spraying once a fortnight, using a little paraffin in the water. But if the plants have been attacked there is only one course— namely, to pinch the maggots between one's thumb and finger, or pick them out with the point of a knife and kill them. ^Vire^s^orniB. — Among the most deadly enemies of the chrysanthemum is the wireworm, belonging to an order of beetles forming the family Elaterida and commonly called " skip jacks " or " click beetles.'' They are most destructive when in the larva state, in which condition they remain four or five years. It is only by constantly working the soil and keep- ing it free from weeds or plants of every kind that wireworms can be starved out. They abound in old pastures where there is plenty of food to sustain them. In attacking a chrysanthe- mum a wireworm will begin by eating into the middle of the plant and then it will eat its way up through the stem to the G 82 The Cidtitre of the Chrysanthemum. top. Sometimes it eats a passage out, but as often descends by the way it worked up the interior of the stem. Following this method one wireworm will destroy a number of plants. Birds devour a good many wire worms, but where they are very numerous the best plan is to trap them by placing carrots or pieces of cabbage or brocoli stumps beneath the surface of the ground and examining the " traps " daily. WIREWORMS. : lineatus ; i magnified: 3 obscurus ; 4 natural length"; 5 sputator ; 6 mag- nified ; 7 and 8 larva natural size ; 9 iiiagnified ; 10 chrysalis ; II natural length. Daddy I^ons-liegs. — This is a most troublesome pest, and while classified under the name of Tipula Oleracea is usually called the " Leather- Jacket Grub," " Crane Fly," or " Daddy Long-legs." The insect is very destructive among the cabbage tribe. It is not so injurious to plants in pots as the soil is generally too hard for it to burrow in, nor in land which is constantly dug and weeded; but in land which has borne a good crop of weeds, or in an old pasture it will clear off chrysanthemums as fast as they are planted. I have had to replant 10,000 'mums upon one acre of such land. Starlings catch thousands of "Leather-Jackets" if the insects venture Insect Pests and Diseases. 83 ileaf the. surface, but when the latter attack newly set plants^ there seems but one way to deal with them — viz., to search round the plant and, having found them, kill them. I have seen sufficient to fill half a gallon caught day after day. Nothing can be put into the ground to destroy them without killing the plant as well, but syringing with the smallest possible quantity DADDY LOKG-LEGS OR CRANE FLY. I eggs ; 2 the ma jgot stage ; 3 pupa ; 4 female fully grown. of paraffin in the water is the best method to keep them at bay It is only while in the grub state that they are so destructive ; they bite small plants in two, and eat the rind off harder plants. The Frog Fly.— Everyone has noticed upon various flowers little patches of frothy matter called " cuckoo spittle." This -is caused by a tender little insect which by sucking the plant buries itself in this froth, which protects it from heat and other inimical effects until it is fully grown, when it changes to G 2 84 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. a pupa and finally to a fly— the " frog fly " or "jumper." These flies are sometimes credited with causing the mischief which is done by the green bug, but after they have left the frothy sub- stance they do not pierce the plant. At the same time, it is well to destroy all that can be caught. =^ FROG FLY. 30 egg magnified ; /natural size. 28 flying; h natural dimensions. 31 pupa ; n natural size. CHAPTER XX. INSECT FRIENDS. Some Tiny Assiatant Gardeners* — Having dealt in the preceding chapter with some of the principal insect pests with which chrysanthemum growers have to contend, I shall now allude to some of their insect friends. I need hardly say that there are insects which perform services of the greatest value to gardeners ; indeed, without their assistance it would be well-nigh impossible to cultivate plants at all. The Hoverer or Ha^vk. Fly. — The Hoverer flies may often be seen hovering apparently motionless in the sun- shine near trees or basking on leaves with their wings out- spread. Their grubs are most voracious and feed entirely on aphides. They are quite blind, and although having neither eyes nor legs, they manage to kill an enormous number of Insect Friends. 85 aphides. The flies are of many shapes and sizes, some being long and narrow, some short and thick, They fly very lightly to a shoot infested with aphides, lay an egg in their midst, and hover away to another shoot, and so on. These eggs HOVERER FLIES. 1 Scceva ialleata ; 4 Sccsva pyrastri ; 7 Sccena ribesii \ 2 and 5 grub ; 3 and 6 chrysalides. soon come to life and begin feeding on the aphides. The grubs cling to the leaf or stem and feel abo'jt with their heads till . they catch an aphis when they suck it dry, cast away the skin, and go " fishing" again. Thousands of these have been killed for caterpillars in ignorance, for they generally lie close to the stem, or on a leaf, as a caterpillar would. ONE OF THE WASP FLIES. Air Beea op ^f'aap Flies— These are of different shapes and colours; some are dark and similar to a large antj others long and narrow, not unlike a small wasp. These 86 The Ctilture of tJie Chrysanthemum. insects make their nests in rotten wood, or in bamboo canes, building their doorways with clay. They catch small cater- pillars, aphides, and other destructive insects, and are veiy useful amongst chrysanthemums. Tlie Golden iGye.— The ejrgs of this pretty insect, called also the " Lice-lion," are generall> deposited amongst aphides, and attached to the ends of slender threads of a gummy sub- stance (Fig. 2). When they are hatched they begin to feed voraciously upon aphides, and in the younger state they cover themselves with the skins of their victims. In this way it is „ THE GOLDEN EYE. 5 and 6 cocoon magnified ; i female ; eg^s ; s 4 larva magnified ; 3 larwi covered with the skins of their victims. difficult to detect them and they lie concealed from small birds and other enemies ; but when they are grown somewhat they are more greedy than the larva of the lady-bird — hence their name, " Lice-lion." Tbe Iiady-Bipd. — The lady-birds iCoccinella sep/empunc- tata and C. bi-punctatd) produce grubs which are most useful in destroying aphides. The grubs are flattish, of a dark or leaden grey colour, and ornamented with black and yellow spots ; the grubs of both species (seven and two spotted lady-birds) are very much alike, but those of the two-spotted species are con- siderably smaller than those of the other, being not more than a quarter of an inch in length. They change their coat several Insect Friends. 87 times during jfrowth, and are continually searching for, and feeding on aphides. When fully grown they turn to a chrysalis, • and remain gujumed to a leaf until they reach the mature state of a lady-bird. Bird*.— The little Jenny Wren and Golden-Crested Wren are great friends to gardeners, for they catch multitudes of LADY-BIRDS. I and 2 eggs (natural size and magnified) ; 3 and 4 grub ; 7, 8 and 5 two- spotted lady-bird and chrysalis; 9 and 6 seven-spoited lady-bird and chrysalis. aphides and small bugs and catterpillars. Even after the plants are housed, they will almost live amongst the plants if they are not frightened away. House martins and swallows are, of course, also useful. In conclusion I may say that I am in- debted to the pages of" Farm Insects," by John Curtis, for some of the facts set forth in these two chapters on insect pests and insect friends. 88 The Culture of the Chysanthemum. CHAPTER XXI. HINTS ON WHAT NOT TO DO. A little 8ennon> — Not many people care to expose their failures, although there are very few indeed who do not meet with them. If they do not they are lucky. A gardener who never experiments at all is not much good to the gardening world. Then why should not one make known one's failings to warn others ? One need not be ashamed of them. So here let me express a few cautions. Don't trust others to do what you can do yourself, unless you have proved them trustworthy. I do not mean that there are no trustworthy young men, for there are men as good now as ever there were ; only I sometimes wisli there were more of them. Don't propagate too early, unless jou are thoroughly ex- perienced, or your plants will become drawn and weakly. Don't syringe or water any plants after 3 p.m. in the spring months, or when there is any danger of frost. It is better to let them flag a little than do this. Don't water a plant in any stage until it is sufficiently dry. The pot will ring or sound hollow when tapped with the knuckles if it be dry. You might be deceived by the tops lopping a bit when the sun and wind are on them after a spell of dull, damp weather. Don't kill any hoverer flies, or any lady-birds or their larvje which of course turn to lady-birds), for they live entirely upon aphides. The larva is a small lizard-like insect. Don't water any plants, or slop any water about the houses, after midday when the plants are in bloom, if you can possibly avoid it, for the large flowers damp off so easily, especially the dark varieties. Don't say you cannot grow chrysanthemums, because personally, I do not believe that little word "cannot" was invented for gardeners. Say I will grow them, and stick to it Hints on What Not to Do. 89 until you have done it satisfactorily. You will then not be likely to leave it. Don't enter in larger classes, when exhibiting, than you can manage properly. It is better to show twelve good blooms than twenty-four with four or five, or even one weak bloom. Don't get down-hearted if you do not gain all first prizes at your first attempt at exhibiting. There are many old exhibi- tors who are very glad to stand in the prize list at all. Don't use bones for drainage, to pots. You maybe success- ful for a year or two, but at some time or other you will regret it. Don't use stimulants of any kind too strong, but weak and often, and on no account before the pots are full of roots. Be very careful with chemicals. I have known the fumes which arose from nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia destroy the leaves two feet up the stems. This is often the cause of naked stems. Don't take out the break shoots too close to the bud when securing the latter, but leave one just below it, and another six inches or so below that, until the bud gets started. These growths will do no harm for a few days, but, of course, must then be removed, or the bud will most surely suffer. Don't allow any plants to be blown about unsecured by a stake at any time, for the month of September very rarely passes without a rough wind. Don't leave any plants out unprotected after the end of September, for a sharp frost may occur any night. Don't pot a plant at any time if it is very dry, or use a dirty pot, otherwise when you come to re-pot you may find the tender roots sadly torn and sticking to the old pot. Don't water a plant when it is already wet enough at the roots, as this will cause sappy growth, and sour the soil. Don't water a plant for a few days after it has been potted, but sprinkle it overhead two or three times a day in hot weather to keep it frjim flagging. Don't ram the soil too firmly in the pots, but so that the water may pass freely through them. 90 The, Culture of the Chrysanthemum. Don't fail to read the rules of any society's schedule where you intend to exhibit, for non-compliance with the rules may disqualify you. Don't forget to see that your greenhouse is drip proof, or you will rue the havoc rain-drops will make with the flowers. Don't forget to recommend this book to all your friends ; no better present eould be given than tliis. CHAPTER XXII. HINTS ON WHAT TO DO. Another liittle Sermon. — I have given advice on what to avoid, and it may be appropriate to emphasise several things it is essential to remember. Therefore, I have jotted down the following hints : — Take your cuttings from healthy, unforced plants. See that your pots, if new, are soaked well in water before you pot ; if old, that they are well washed and dry before you begin, or you will lose a mass of fibry roots, when the plants come to be turned out of these pots, from the small roots stick- ing to the sides. Remember that the more roots you have to your plant, the better it will be. To secure abundance of roots, pot up gradually from small to full-sized pots, by various sizes. Every time the root reaches the side of the pot it branches and runs round. When this is effected it is time for a further shift. Keep cuttings close, either covered with a glass or shut up in a case. This maintains the moisture all round the cutting and prevents evaporation of the juices of the cutting, which would otherwise wither and die. Use long clean labels, upon which place name, date, number, etc., leaving room for further remarks during the summer. Keep all your dates for future guidance. Use preventives against disease at intervals, rather than delay till appearance of malady. Dressing Blooms for Show. 91 Remember that certain sorts, as Madame Carnot, require unenriched soil for first growth. When receiving new plants from the nurserymen, it is best to keep them close for two or three days, in case they have been taken from a warm house. Always be punctual as regards the time announced for the conjpletion of the staging of your flowers at shows ready for the judges. A rule in vogue at Hull is to ring a bell 1 5 minutes before the judging, and an announcement is made that only a quarter of an hour will be allowed. At the stroke of the clock the sweepers commence at one end and everyone is cleared out. CHAPTER XXIII. DRESSING BLOOMS FOR SHOW. Preparing; Incurveds.— Incurveds want a great deal more dressing (or arranging) the florets than Japs. A great deal can be done while they are on the plants by pulling out any deformed florets or bad centres ; but this must be per- formed very carefully, or the tweezers will bruise the good florets, and they will show it in a day or two. This will do more harm than good. It is better not to attempt to dress the blooms until as near to the time of the show as possible, in case the marks of the tweezers should show. The stiff-petalled sorts should be left to the last. Many of the largest and best flowers will perhaps take an hour or more to dress to make them perfect, as there are so many florets which get one into the other. These should all be parted, for that makes the flower so much larger. If there are any short petals in the centre, pull them out, so as to get some of the longest and best to form a good high centre, and build the others up regularly round them, until the flowers are finished. Do not cup your flowers too tightly, or the depth of them will be lessened thereby. A good incurved should be perfectly round and even when finished, with every petal showing itself distinctly, I have known caterpillars to eat holes in incurveds sufficiently large, to insert a nut. If these short stumps are pulled out DRESSING INCURVEDS. Dressing Blooms for Show. 9^ the florets can easily be made to cover the hole, so that no one can detect it ; but, of course, every petal must be moved, and this reduces the size of the flower somewhat. In dressing blooms nothing must be added; not even a drop of gum, or it will dis- qualify the whole stand. In arranging the blooms on the board, the largest are generally put in the back row, then the next largest in the middle row, and the smallest, which are generally the neatest in the front row. Incurveds must not be shaken about much in going to the show, or there will be a good deal to do to them to put them right again. Japanese. — Japanese blooms want but little dress- ing for show. Any crippled florets should be pulled out. Some of the straight-petalled varieties may have some short petals in the centre. These should all be pulled clean out. Then hold the flower the wrong way upwards, and give it a smart shake. The longer petals will be found to fill tip the place of the shorter ones, and thus give the flower a deeper and more graceful appearance. Remember, at the same time, one may pull as much as one likes out of a flower, but nothing must be added. Of course, there are a good many opinions as to the propriety of dressing Japanese chrysanthemums, blit, for my part, I am unable to see why it should be permissible to dress incurveds and that the line should be drawn at Japs. I have known judges to disqualify exhibitors for dressing Pride of Madford, Mrs. Barkley, W. R. Church, and others because the florets had been reflexed. The question ought to be decided by every Society, a rule being inserted in the schedule plainly stating whether reflexing was allowable or not. At Edinburgh the magnificent specimens usually shown of Mrs. Barkley may be seen with long, beautiful florets which reflex naturally, and in the South of England equally magnificent specimens may be noticed with the florets artificially reflexed. In both cases the effect is the same — lovely. But, as I have said, some judges Would disqualify in the latter instance, forgetting apparently that climatic variations make reflexing necessary. On a bright, sunny day all Japanese chrysanthemums reflex more or Jess ; 94 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. and surely the grower who strives after perfection of form, remembering that "a thing of beauty is a joy for ever," should be allowed to assist Dame Nature a little in this respect. OtUer Varieties. — Anemones want but very little dress- ing ; merely pull any loose or straggling florets out, arrange the guard florets regularly all round, and remove any defor- mities from the cushion, to make it even all over. Pompons are generally shown on stems, and three blooms of a sort. They require but little dressing ; still, they can some- times be improved by a little arranging of florets, especially the anemone " poms." Every flower should have a small wire close up under it, with a ring made at the top for the bloom to rest upon, and be tied neatly down the stem so as to show as little as possible. When arranging them on the board it is better to place them in tubes and plug them with moss than to tie th m in bunches. They should be fixed so that each and every flower can be seen to the best advantage, and as evenly as possible all over the board, with the colours arranged so that each set harmonises with its neighbour. Singles are either shown in threes, or in sprays of two or three of each sort ; and when they are nicely set up and arranged there is nothing in the whole show which attracts more attention. They should be staged in a similar way to pompons {see above). The only dressing these require is the pulling out of any short or irregular florets, so that the flower appears as round and even as possible. Singles should not have more than two rows of florets ; or, better still, only one row. I prefer to see singles and pompons exhibited similar to those on the bamboo stand as in Chapter VII. CHAPTER XXIV. JUDGING CUT BLOOMS. 3 1st Middle 6 Mrs. Barkley )» Early April 3 2nd End 7 Lord Ludlow* Jan. Natural 3 1st Middle 8 W. A.Etherington... Dec. Early May Mid April 3 1st Ji 9 Mdm.R. Cadbury ... J, 3 1st 10 General Hutton* ... Early May 3 1st jj 11 Maf eking Hero „ Natural 3 1st 1-2 Mrs. F. W. Vallis ... .. '1 3 1st >» 13 Mrs. Jas. Lewis „ Early April Early May 1 2nd End 4 Mary Inglis* Nov. or Deo. Dec. 3 1st »» 15 Mdm. P. Ridselli ... ^ ») 3 Middle Middle 16 Mr. Louis Remy ... S) Natural 3 2nd End 17 Mrs. H. Weeks' ... Early April 3 1st Middle 18 Mrs. T. W. Pockett Dec. or Jan. Jan. Natural 1 2nd End 19 Mdm. Herrewege ... }) 3 1st Middle 20 Godfrey's Pride ... Dec. Early April 3 2nd End 21 Mr. T. Garrington .. ^, Jt 1 2nd ,, 22 Nellie Pockett ,j »» 1 2nd )» 23 Marquis V. Venosta 1 ) »» 1 2nd > ! 24 Mrs- Swinburne >) Mid April Natural 3 3 lat 1st Middle 25 Charles Longley* .. 26 Cheltoni ,, Early April X 2nd End 27 C.J. Salter J, u 1 2nd ,, 28 Commonwealth ,j Natural 3 1st Middle 29 Duchess of Suther- ,j Early May 3 1st )» land 30 Ethel Fitzroy )) " Natural 3 1st M 31 Geo. Lawrence ,, >» 3 1st »J 32 Guy Hamilton ,, Early Mar. 1 2nd End 33 Henry Perkins jj Natural 3 1st J) 34 Lord Alverstone End March 1 2nd )) 35 Miss Mildred Ware J ) Natural 1 2nd ) ) jj 36 Rev, W.Wilka rr End March 1 2nd )) lOO The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. Buds Varieties. Insert Cuttings Stop, about. First or Second should be secured in Feeding OjT General °c» Crown. August, Remarks. IZi about. 37 Sensation Dec. Natural 1 2nd End Freely 38 W. Duckham J Mid April Early April 1 2nd ,j 39 Princess Braneovan )> 1 2nd )t 40 Mrs. E. Thirkell ... Natural 3 2nd " 41 Mons. C. deLecM... 1 1 2nd 42 Mrs. J. Bryant 1) Early April Early Mar. 1 2nd 43 J. R. Upton 1 2nd J 44 Matthew Smith ,, Early April 1 2Qd )t 45 Miss O.Miller Natural 3 1st Middle 46 Pride of Madford ... 3 1st 47 Viscountess Cran- ^^ 3 1st " bourne " 48 Terracotta Jan. Mid May Natural 3 3 1st Isfc End M 49 Australie 50 Ben Wells Dec. 3 1st 51 Countess of H.ir " ro why ,, Early May 3 1st Middle " 52 C. Penford ,, Natural 3 1st 53 Donald McLeod ... ^, Early April 3 1st 54 Ernest Bettisworth 2nd End 5.5 F. A. Cobbold ) 1 2nd 56 H. E. Hayman Natural 3 1st Middle 57 Henry Stowe )' Early April 2nd End 5S Hon. Mrs. Acland ... Natural 3 Isli Middle 59 S. T. AVright ,, Early April 1 ' 2nd End 60 Mrs. E. Hummell ... )' )» 1 i 2nd »> >, 61 Alfriston 2nd 62 Cal vat's Sun ) 1 2nd " " 63 Dorothy Pywell ... J) 3 Ist 64 Edith Smith ,^ 1 2nd ' 1 65 Klorence Molyneux ») , 3 { 1st Middle " 1 66 General BuUer _ , 2nd End " 67 Miss Lucy Evans . . . Mid March \ 2nd ») 68 John Eraser Early April 2nd " 69 George Penford ,, Natural 1st Middle " 70 Mdm. Naggle- " maekevsi , , Early April 2nd End 71 Le Grand Dragon - )» End March 2nd Middle *' 72 Leila Filkins »» j» 2nd End jThose with * are sometimes best stopped early in March and secure 2n crowns ; but it would be safest to stop them a second time early in June, The Best Fifty Incurved Varieties, lOI Note.— It will be observed that none of the Carnotfamily are included in the foregoing hst, because although they are splendid varieties in the hands of some growers, others cannot raise them successfully. But for the in- formation of those who desire t» grow them the following directions should be followed :— Stop about mid- April ; carry three shoots to the next break, and three again ; and secure buds about the third week in August; The soil and feeding should not be so rich as for other varieties until the buds begin to swell or are as large as nuts. The BcBt Fifty Incurved Varieties. .Insert Cuttings Stop. III First or Second Crown. Bud taken in August, about. Feed. 1 1° ' 1 Duchess of Fife Dec. End March 3 2nd End Freely 2 Mrs.Barnard Hankej jj Ji 1 )) 3 Frank Hammond . . ,j 3 1st Middle 4 Miss Nellie Southain jj 3 2nd End 5 Chas. Curtis 3 1st 6 C. Blick 3 1st 7 Mrs. H. J. Jones . , . 9) Early April 3 2nd 11 8 Mildred Lyne Ji 3 2nd II 9 G. W. Matthew ... jj Natural 3 Lst Middle 10 Mrs. F. Judson 9) 3 1st 11 Egyptian 12 Lady Isabel JJ Early April Natural 3 3 3 1st 2nd 1st End Middle 13 Miss Alice Dighton 14 lalene ... ' ... J, End March 3 2nd End ^ 15 W. Higgs ... ..: 16 Han well Gloiy 17 Countess of Warwick jj 3 2nd End April 3 2nd a jj 3 2nd a jj 18 Mrs. C. Crooks Natural 3 1st Middle jj 15 Globe d'Or End April 3 2nd End jj 20 Robert Petfield ...j Jan. Natural 3 1st )) ^ 21 Topaze Orientale ... Deo. Early April 3 2nd 93 )> 22 Miss Annie Hills ... J) End March 3 2nd 3i 23 PantiaKalli >J II 3 2nd a jj 24 Ma Perfection it Early April End Maroh 3 3 3 2nd 2nd 2nd - 25 J. Agate 26 Mrs. E. C. Kingston 102 The Culture of the Chrysanthemum. Insert !) uttinga; Btop. Krst or Second Crown. Bud taken in August, about. Feed. 27 The King Jan. Natural 3 1st Middle Freely 28 George Lock Dec. End March 1 2nd End )j 29 MissE. Seward ... ,j Natural 3 1st ,, jj 30 Pearl Palace jj End March 1 2nd 3) 1 » 31 Mad. Lucie Faure ... J J jj 1 2nd )J >> 32 May Phillips jj ,j 3 2nd >' )) 33 George Haigh Jan. Natural 3 1st Middle J ? 34 C. B. Whitnall ... , 3 1st 3 ) »j 35 Domed'Or Dec. End March 1 2nd End 36 Mad. Ferlat )) »j 3 1 2nd 2nd J» J) 37 Mad. d'Vernieul ... ji 38 Mrs. W. Higgs ... March Natural 1 1st Middle 6 in. pot Freely 39 The Major Dec. ,j 3 1st J, 40 Major Bonnaffon ... Jan. j^ 3 1st jj } J 41 Nellie S. Threfall ... ,, ^, 3 1st ,j J t 42 Ralph Hatton Dec. End March 3 2nd ,) 43 Comtesse d'Estoile... ,, , 1 2nd End j^ 44 Fred Palmer ]] ) > 1 2nd ) 1 45 The Captain ) ) End April 3 2nd ^, 46 Creola End March 3 2nd J, j^ 47 Bonnie Dundee J, 3 2nd j^ jj 48 Golden Empress .. Early April 1 2nd >) )» 49 Lord Alcester 1 2nd 50 Empress of India ... 3> )» 1 2nd " j> The Best IVovelties. — The following list gives the names of the best novelties which came under my notice during the last chrysanthemum season (1903), but some of course may not be distributed for a little while : — Albert Chandler (yellow), A. L. Stevens (yellow), Beauty of Leigh (yellow), Dora Stevens (rosy cerise), J. H. Doyle (terra-cotta), Emily Mileham (white), J. H. Silsbury (crimson), Harry Shrimpton (terra-cotta), Mers. tham Red, Merstham Yellow, Mrs. J. Dunn (white), Miss Winnie Terry (yellow), Mrs. H. A. Allen (deep rosy pink), Mrs. J. A. Miller (terra-cotta), Mrs. W. Duckham (yellow and red). Red Barkley (/eddish terra-cotta), Phillipe du Cros (tawny yellow), Valerie Greenham (pink). Incurveds : — Mrs. Barnard Hankey (bronze), Miss A. Dighton (creamy yellow), Miss Violet (white flushed pink), Mrs. J. P. Bryce (white). The 'Mum Grower's Calendar. I03 CHAPTER XXVII. THE 'xMUM GROWER'S CALENDAR. December.— Insert cuttings of all those varieties which require a long season's growth, such as Japanese and Incurved intended for exhibition. {See Chap. II. on " Cuttings.") January.— Insert cuttings of the varieties which could not be procured in December. Many kinds cannot be obtalined in that month without buds, while others are slow in starting growth. February.- In the early part of this month many cuttings will have rooted and they may be potted singly into small pots. Insert cuttings of pompons and anemones, and continue to pot up all plants which are rooted. {See Chap. 1 1, on " Potting," and Chaps. VIII. and IX. on "Pompons" and "Anemones.") JWarcIi. — Insert cuttings of singles, early flowering varieties, or those required for decorative purposes ; and continue to pot any cuttings which have rooted. Many plants which were placed in small pots earlier in the year will now require a shift into larger pots. Put all plants that are ready into cold frames and stop those varieties which require it. {See Chaps. V., VI., and VII. on "'Mums for Decoration," etc., and Chap. III. on " Stopping.") April. — All cuttings should be inserted by now, and all old stools burnt. Re-pot any plants requiring it. Attend to spray- ing to prevent insects or fungus attacking the plants. Use stakes where necessary, and continue to stop as required. ,{See Chap. II. on "Spraying.") Way. — Prepare soil for final potting. See that you have sufficient manure in readiness as towards the end of the month a few plants may need their final pots and others which struck later will require a shift. {See Chap. II. on "Final Potting," and Chap. XIV. on " Soil for Final Potting.") June. — The final potting of all exhibition varieties will require to be finished this month. Attend to staking, spraying, I04 The . Culture 0/ the Chrysanthemum. etc., and prepare the summer quarters. {See Chap. II. on •'Summer Quarters," and Chap. XIII. on "Staking the Plants.") July.— Attend to tying and disbudding, and hunt diligently for insects. Stop the few varieties which should now show the second crown if they were over-looked in April. Pot the plants which \\ere struck late. {See Chap. XIX. on " Insect Pests and Diseases.") August.— Continue to look for insects and search for signs of fungus. Feed. any plants which are well rooted About mid- August a few buiis will be showing and these should be secured. By the end of the month all buds should be secured as they appear. {See Chap. X. on '' Watering and Manuring.") Septeinber.- See that the plants are safe-guarded against storms. Feed rather freely, especially plants which have their buds swelling. Spray as a preventive of mildew, etc., and place plants under cover as they show colour. By the end of the month complete the housing of all plants. {See Chaps. II. and X. on " Housing the Plants.") October. — Housing having been completed thoroughly fumigate the interior of the greenhouse to destroy aphides or thrip. Look out for earwigs, hunting regularly each night about 10 o'clock with a lamp. Continue to feed the plants till the end of the month. Prepare show boards and packing boxes if it is your intention to exhibit. {See Chap. X. on " Hints on Fumi- gation," and Chap. XII. on " Packing.") IVovember. — This is the month in which the successful grower reaps his reward at the Shows and proves his skill or otherwise displays his abilities by the excellence of his home collection. {See Chap XXIII. "on Dressing Blooms for Show.") EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUM : CARRIE. io6 Chrysanthemums. W. Wells ^ Co., LTD., EARLSWOOD, SURREY, Largest Stock of 'Mums in the World. All the Latest Novelties. All the Best Varieties. WELLS &. Co.'s Chrysanthemums have gained Highest Honours at all the Principal Exhibitions in Great Britain and Ireland and on the Continent. SEND FOR OUR CATALOGUES. General List of Chrysanthemums ready November ist, and Sup- plemental List giving the latest novelties, ready January ist. CATALOGUES POST FREE. W. Wells & eo., Ltd., EARLSWOOD, SURREY. 167 WESTERN VALLEYS ANTHRACITE COMPANY. LLANELLY. u eeeooce e e e ■ Best Qualities of . . ANTHRACITE For Household and Horticultural purposes. -MoaaooaiOT i LAEGE, COBBLES, NUTS, AND PEA COAL. ro8 CELEBRATED XL ALL INSECTICIDES. OF WORLD-WIDE RENOW^N. Used and Recommended by all Leading Growers of "Mums." Liquid Compound for using in the FumigatorB. Bottle No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Enough for Cubic feet. 40,000 20/0 20,000 10/6 10,000 5/6 5,000 2/10 2,000 1/2 1,000 8d. i-Gal. Tin. 160,000 72/0 i^ Solid Dry Cake Compound (Patent for using inthe Fumigator. Enough for Box Cubic No. Cka. feet. 40 40,000 20/0 20 20,000 10/6 10 10,000 5/6 5 J 5,000 2/10 2 2,000 1/2 f?iCHARD9' Patent Fumigator. To do 5,000 cubic ft. of space at a' time, 2/- each ; to do 2,000 cubic ft. 1/9 each. XL ALL Liquid Insecticide Wash (Patent).— The best Insecticide for Syringing or Spraying under G-lass or out in the open. J-pint, 8d. ; i-pint, 1/2 ; 1 pint, 2/- ; 1 quart, 3/6 ; ^-gallon, 5/- ; 1 gallon, 10/- ; i gallon drum, 38/-. XL ALL Mildew Wasll.— The best Wash for Mildew or Rust to use under Glass or out in the open. Also kills ^phis and other Insects, ^-pint, 1/4 ; 1 pint, 2/6 ; 1 quart, 4/- ; J-gallon, 6/6; 1 gallon, 12/6. Both Mildew Wash and Liquid Insecticide are perfectly clear Liquids, and will not stop up the finest Sprayer. All Paeticulahs, Pbice Lists, ahd Suppiibs can be obtained fbom NUR8EETMEN, SEEDSMEN, AND FLOKISTS, MY AGENTS ail otbb THE World. Manufacturer and Patentee— G. H. RICHARDS, 234, BOROUGH HIGH STREET, LONDON, 8.E. log i6o Highest Awards ; Gold Medals from all the Principal Exhibitions. PURE ICHTHEMIC GUANO Diploma, Glasgow Exhibition, 1901. Adjudged by the most eminent growers throughout the world The MOST EELIABLE, The EICHEST FOOD, and The MOST NATURAL FEETILIZER For every form of growth. Send for book, "All about lohthemlo," fifth edition, by the late Dr. Taylob, P.W.S., with Notes by T. W. Sasders, F.E.H.S., and others, gratis and post free. THIS QTJANO. for the convenienoe of small users, is put up in handsome enamelled tins at 6d., Is., and 28. 6d. sealed Bags, 14 lb., 4s. 6d. ; carriage forward. Larger Baps, 28 lb., 7s. 6d., 56 lb., 123. 6d. ; Icwt., 20s., carriage paid Maybe obtained from the Principal Nurserymen, Seedsmen, Florists, and Chemists, or direct of WM. COLCHESTEE & CO.. IPSWICH, ENGLAND. Sbippiupr Depots all over the World. A GARDENING LIBEAEY SENT YOU EOR - - - A GARDENING LIBRARY SENT YOU COMPLETE FOR 4s. We have made arransjemenls to forward to any address, carriage free, a copy of the '* Gardener's Assistant " (6 volumes), on receipt of a P.O. for 4s. Edited by Mr. Watfon, Curator of Kew Gardens. It contains all that is best and vital in gardening theory and practice. The illustrations, some coloured, number nearly 2,000. The six" volumes (11 inches by 9I are magnificently bound. Pay 4s. now, and you get the volumes. If you are satisfied, keep them and pay eleven more monthly payments 01 4s. If you are' not satisfied, return them at our expense, and we will refund your 4s. It works out at only is. per week. If you have a garden, and want it to be at its best, you cannot afford to be without this book. At least send for Prospectus. FILl. IN THIS FORM OR WRITE ITS, With 4/. P.O. The Gresham PublishlnJ Co., 34, Southampton St., Strand, W.C. ^ ^^ REGISTERED. tJS. Prospecttts Free \Vl Please forward to me at address given below, ONE COPY of the GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. (P.O. for 41. encbs.-d.) Wells. , Name..,, Address.. Trowers' Vegetable Seeds. Mr. J. HoRSLEY, Ventnor, Isle of Wight, writes : — " All the seeds I have had from you for the last three years have been very satisfactory." Trowers' Flower Seeds. Mr. \V. BiNFlELT>, Gardener to F. F. Smallpiece, Esq., Cross Lanes, Guildford, writes : — '' The Flower Seeds I had from you were very satis- factory especially the Calceolaria, which is the finest strain I have ever seen." Trowers' Bulbs. Mr. W. r. Bound, Gardener to J. Colman, Esq., Gatton Park, writes : — " I am pleased to say the Bulbs supplied by you last autumn have again given us every satisfaction." Mr. D. Edwakds, Gardener to Sir David Evans. Ewell, writes: — " I am pleased to inform you the Bulbs I had from you last autumn, both for pots and bedding, were very satisfactory. The Roman Hyacinths were specially good." Trowers' Lawn Grasses. Mr. Husband, Gardener to G. H. Redwood, Esq., The Oaks, Reigate, writes : — "It gives me much pleasure to testify to the quality of your Lawn Grass. My lawns sown with your seeds are in every way most satisfactory." Trowers' Mushroom Spawn. Mr. Geo. Kew, Gardener to R. Barclay. Esq., Bury Hill, Dorking, April 17th, 1903, writes : — " I have no doubt it will interest you to know the Mushroom Spawn you sent me has given great satisfaction. I have been cutting fine fleshy Mushrooms the last three months from a bed spawned in November, and still getting a supply." Mr. H. Vincent, Gardener to A. II. Lloyd, Esq.,- Bletchingley, writes : — " Vour Mushroom Spawn was exceptionally good. I gathered from Christmas until the second week in April from one bed." Mr. Wheeler, Gardener to H. W. Sanderson, Esq., Hazeldene, Chiswick, writes: — "Never saw such a sight; the most prolific spawn I ever had." H, & n. TR0WER, 8"D8MEN, REDHILL, SURREY, CATALOGUES FBEE. ii HAYWARD'S EUREKA" PREPARATIONS FOR "' GREENHOUSE & GARDEN. WEED KILLER (Powder & Liquid). Saves weary weeding. "EUREKA.TINE" the Perfect Fmnigator. "INSECTICIDE," for Spraying and Washing. HELLEBORE POWDER. Destroys Caterpillars, &c. BORDEAUX MIXTURE. . SUMMER SHA.DE. Send for desoriptivc Pamphlet, Post Free on application, from the onlyMakers, TOMLINSON & HAYWARD, Limited, HORTICULTURAL CHEMISTS, LINCOLN. BAYLISS, JONES &BAYLISS,i^ WOLVERHAMPTON LONDON SHOW ROOMS.- ^ I50&I4-I CANNON ST EC C*TAL0CUC2 FUEE. Also IRON FENCING, GATES, &c. Sydenham's Champion Violas are world-renowned ; specimen 12 for either Bedding or Exhibition, 2s. 6d. Sydenham's Pansies, specimen dozen, 3s. Sydenham's Early Flowering Chrysanthemums, the cream of standard soi-ts, a perfect collection in a dozen, 3s. 6d. or 5s. Sydenham's Pyrethrums, 12 to bloom. May to November, 4s. Sydenham's Herbaceous Perennials, a good dozen, 4s. Sydenham's Perennial Asters, or Michaelmas Daisies, 12 superb varieties, 5s. All above carefully named, and carriage paid. SYDENHAM'S VIOLA SEED, per packet, Is., 2s. 6d., 5s. DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE sent free on application. WILLIAM SYDENHAM TAMWORTH, Staffordshire. Price List of Good Strong Oardeu Netting. Small Mesh, Oiled and Dressed. One hundred yards long, one yard wide, 3s.; Ditto, two yards wide, 6s.; Ditto, three yards wide, 93. ; Ditto, four yards wide, I2i. ; Ditto, five yards wirie, i5s. ; Ditto, six yards wirip, 183. ; Ditto, seven yards wide, 213 ; Ditto, eight yards wide, 24s. ; Ditto, nine yards wide, 27s. This Netting can toe sent any width or length required. TENTS. TENTS. Suitable for Gardena, Cricket, or Camping-out Pui-poses. Forty feet in circumference. Pegs. Poles Mallet, and Lines, complete fwlth Tent Bag included). These Tents are "White, and have only been used a little by Ilis Majesty's Government, and cost over £6 each. I will send one complete for 30a. Can be sent on approval. N.B.— I have a quantity of Tents from IBs, to 30s. each. Price List Marquees, all sizes, post free. HHfiHV JOHN Gflsso]^, Government Contractor, RYE, SUSSEX. IT IS A FACT THAT INNES'S ' FERTILITAS, " THE CELEBBATET) VINE AND PLANT FOOD, IS XOW THE FIXEST MANURE OX THE MARKET AXD THE LOWEST IX PRICK. £14 per ton, 15s. per cwt. Carriage paid. FROM ALL SEEDSMEN. Write for List of Testimonials and copy of new analysis to W9I. IN]«ES Si, CO., CITY ROAB Mir,I.S, DERBY. All Chrysanthemum Cultivators should adopt THE "ASEPTIC" TREATMENT FOR THE PROTECTION OF PLANTS FROM DISEASE. Convenient and Effective. Selentifleally Accurate. This System consists ■ in the addition of a powerfully antiseptic substance to the soil whence it is taken up by the growing plant impreg- nating every stem and leaf, destroying all spores of disease already existant, and preventing the development of any that may subsequently occur. Being also a most effective fertilizer, little or no further " feeding " is required ; the cost of treatment of all soil used by this system is about id. per dozen plants. THE "ASEPTIC" SPRAY. For use on Plants when the soil treatment has not been followed, instantly destroys the spores of all external diseases without the least injury to plant or bloom. A clear solution mixing instantly with water, no deposit, non-poisonous. Price 6,6 gallon ; i gallon makes 200 gallons for use. SPECIAL CHRYSANTHEMUM FERTILIZERS Prepared from own analysis of plants ; supply the essential ingredients in the most effective forms encouraging healthy development and being extremely concentrated are economical in use. For further Particulars, Samples, etc , apply— R. E. EVANS, Technical Chemist, STRATFORD-ON-AVON. cole's patent. COLE S PATENT. The "Pattisson" Lawn Boots. SIMPLEST! STTtONaESTI MOST ECONOMICAL! As used in the Koyal G-ardens of Buckingham Palace, Balmoral Castle, Claremout, &c. ; the Gardens of the Royal Botanic Societies, London & Edinburgh ; the Parks of the London County Council, the Principal Private Gardens, and by the leading Golf and Cricket Clubs at Home and Abroad. Best Eag-lish Leatlier ("Waterproofed) and Kotor Tyre Bubber- Will outlast at leas tw J sets of ordinary Boots. Can be refitted several times equal to now. H[JNDREDS OF UNSOLICITED TESTIMONALS. " The Field " says : " As good as anything that could be devised." Mr. Troup (Head Gardener to H.M. the King, Balmoral Castle) writes : *' The set you supplied two years ago are as good as ever. Kindly send another set for a pony." Mr. Burrell (Claremont Palace) writes : '* Should command a very large sale." Mr.McPherson (Falkland Palace) writes: "Nothing on the market to touch them.' Mr. J. Hudson, V.M.H., writes: " Excellent in every respect." Mh. Dixon (Holland House, Kensington) writes : " A great improvement." Dr. W. G. GRACE([jondon County Cricket Olnb) writes : *' They are the best." Mr. T. Hearne (Lord's Cricket Ground ) writes : "The Tery thing wanted for years." Mr. W. Park, Jun. (Open Golf Champion, 1887-89) writes : " Undoubtedly the best on the market. I have never seen anything to approach them." PATENT TURF RENOVATOR for ouiokly and easily repairing patchy lawns, PATENTED GOLF COURSE REaUISrm. H. PATTISSON, 1, Farm Avenue, Streatham, S-W. J. CHEAL & SONS. NURSERIES 90 ACRES. ORNAMENTAL TREES and Shrulis, Kosea, Rhododendrons, Climbing Plants, Forest Trees. FRUIT TREES. An Immense Stock, Trae to Name, Healthy, Hardy. SEED DEPARTMENT. Vegetable, riower and Farm Seeds, Bulbs, and Sundries. DAHLIAS A SPECIALITY. Hardy, Herbaceous, Alpine, and Bock Plants. LANDSCAPE GARDENING. Gardens, Ijawns, Parks, and all Ornamental Grounds De- signed and Laid Out, CATALOGUES FREE. J. CHEAI^ cfe SONS, Lowfield Nurseries, Crawley, Sussex. "5 LITTLE & BALLANTYNE BY APPOINTMENT NUBSEHYMEN, SEEDSMEN, AND Wood Fobestees. To H.M. THE King. AND H.M. C0M.MI83I0NEBS OJT k^v> Woods and Forests. VEGETABLE SEEDS. FLOWER SEEDS. Of Superior and Selected Stocks. Prom Prize Strains. Selected CWH 1> ATI A TAl? Q Scotch arown. OJliJill/ JTUI AlUJIlDi Plants, Shrubs, Roses, "Vines, Sec. ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUES, Post Free on application. Nurseries, Seed Farm and Trial Grounds, .500 Acres. CARliISliE. "PEIGNON" PATENT CHESTNUT PALE FENCING. No Estate should bs without this Fencing'? which can be used f r temporary or permanent Enclosures for Horses I Gattlej Sh:ep} Figsi & Sogrs. Econoviic Fencing Co., Ltd., Kegd. Design, Sntd. Stationiis' Ha i. Various Types suitable for protecting Toung Hedg-es Plantations) kTreeSf and Repairing Old Hedges. THE CHEAPEST FENCING IN THE WORLD. MADE IN VAKIOUS PATTEBNS, CLOSE OR OPEN FENCES. MACHINi: MADE with Hard Chestnut Wood, Hand Split, 'bon.nd. to g-ether with Oalvanized Strand. All NaUs, Bolts, and Huts are dis. pensed with. It cau he easily fixed hy unskilled labour. Full particulars and Samples at the— ECONOMIC FENCING CO., Ltd., Bllliter House, Billiter Street, LONDON, E.C. ■WJRITB FOXS KTEW CA.rr.A.X^OO'XTX:. J 3 ii6 TO CULTIVATE In PERFECTION use CLAY'S FERTILIZER The Indispensable Pood for all Flowers, Fruits, Vegetables, and Foliage. // is ussd extensively in the Nurseries of Messrs. W. Wells & Co., Ltd., and by leading Piofessio'jal and Amateur Growers. I /VV»-i Sold Everywhere in 6d. and Is. Tins, and Zi^ SS* Sealed Bags, 7 lbs., 2s. 6d. ; 14 lbs., 4s. 6d. ; '' 1 nNnnM''" ^^ ^''^- 7s. 6d. ; 56 lbs., 12s. 6d. ; 112 lbs., 20s. tj^luwuunq; q^. ^|jj.gp^. ^^.^^ ^.j^^ Works, Carriage Paid in the \A A^ United Kingdom for Cash with Order (except 6d. ^^liS^ tins). TRADE MARK. Every Tin, Bag, and Seal bears the Trade Mark, the only Guarantee of Genuineness- An Article on " CHBYSANXHEMUMS " appears in CLAY'S SUCCESSFUL GARDENING. A Handbook of Practical Horticulture, by eminent Specialists. 144 pages, illustrated. Second Edition. Enlarged and Revised, 6d. post free, or of Seedsmen. lb contains full directions for using Clay's Fertilizer. Pull Price List of Crushed Bones, Bone Meal, Horti- cultural Manures, Chemicals, and Sundries, on application. Best only. CLAY & SON. Manure Manufacturers, Bone Crushers, &c., STRATFORD, LONDON, E. 117 SPECIAL NOTICE. IF YOU WANT REALLY GOOD BULBS AND SEEDS AT MODERATE PRICES, •SEND TO MR. ROBERT SYDENHAM, Tenby Street, Birmingham. No one will serve you better. HIS UNIQUE LISTS Are acknowledged by all to be the Best, Cheapest, and most Reliable ever published. They contain only the best "Vegetables, Flo^vers and Bulba ^vorth growing. Being the Selections of the Largest Seed Growers, Market Gar- deners, and the most celebrated Professional Gardeners and Ama- teurs in the kingdom. They also contain very useful cultural instructions. Mr. SYDENHAM'S Bulbs and Seeds were represented end gained First Frizes at London, Birmingbam, Freston, Newcastle-on-Tyne, Shrewsbury, Edinburgb, etc,, etc, for the last ten years. SWEET PEAS A SPECIALITY* No Flowers give so much cut bloom at so little cost and trouble if treated as iiistruotions sent with each collection. 12 good varieties, 50 seeds of each. Is. 6d. ; 12 choice varieties, 50 seeds of each, 2s. ; or the Two Collections for 2s. 6d. ; a Third Col- lection of the 12 best varieties for Exhibition, 3s. ; 'or the Three Col- lections, 5s., post free. Generally sold at much higher prices. The BEST TOMATOES, 3d. per packet of 200 Seeds. The BEST CUOtTMBEBS, ed. per packet of 10 Seeds. The BEST ONIONS for Exhibition, "Ailsa Craig" or "Excelsior," 6d. per packet of 1,500 Seeds. ALIi OTHEB SEEDS equally cheap and g'ood. Full liists post free on application. ii8 / SPECIMEN . . • . TESTIMONIALS. " TliB GardeoH, Tan-y-Bwich, K.8.O., North Wales. " I tiucl 'Otiiiiivx' Weed Killer aupeiiui' to any other I have tried. "JOHN ROBERra.'' " Stracathro Gardens, Brechin, N,B. "Gentlemen. — I gave your Powfler Weed Killer a fair trial selecting & very dirty diauaed ■walk for the operation, i found it most effeftive and very 8olul)le, only requiring a alight atii when addiDg water. "AjNDKEW DUNLOP." I QlMAX W^^o,„ LIQUID. I Absolutely the BEST Weed Killer for Garden Wiillt. Om •ivlletttoi (euniilr lula two muom ONE GALLON MAKES 51 GALLONS. Price (carrlaf paid) : 1 Gall., 3/fl ; Dmm, »d. 2 Gall., a/a; Drum, 1/6. S Gal!., 14/0; Drum, 2/e. 20 Gill., 50/0 ; Cask, 5/0. Drama and Oaaki allowed for In full U KtanieA la food condition. DnWnpR Price icarriate paid) : No. 1 ru n ULH. Tj„_ ,0 „,kj 25 Galls., 2/0 ; 2 Tins, 3/6. No. 2 Tin, to make 1 00 Gails., 6/6; 2 Tins, 12/6. Tins Frit. CLIMAX "t^l KILLS WEEDS V IMPROVES the GKASS. No other Fertiliicr reaaircd. nnnntjannDnnnDnnnnnnnnnnD Jt It a rea'lj) •ffeclme iton-poiionoui priparaliol) for Jeitroiiiitt Haitlii, Planlaint, end Men o« Ziuni without Injury to /*• Gr«l. nnnnnnnnnnnnnannnnnnnnnn Price (carrtagi raid) : I Cwt., £) ; J-Cwt., 10/6 ; 1-Cwt., 6/0. Sample tins. 7 lbs., 2/0. 28 Ibi. Till drew from 100 to 1(0 iq. Tda. SPECIMEN . . ■ . TESTIMONIAL " The Gardens," Roes Hall, PaiFley, N.B. " Dear Sirs, — \\'e have given your Lawn Sand an extensive test. Our lawijB were perfectly white with daisies, being much annoyance to my employer and niyBelf, and I can assure you I have some difBculty in realising how the daisies t;an be so well killed and at the same time the grass so much iinproveJ. I am confident when your s-md becomes better known it will be extensively used. — Yours faithfully, " C. J. COLE ■' SPECIMEN . . . TESTIMONIAL. £'jo.„ isir. F. YOLE,//frtdf;«r- ilriicr to the Jjule of Bedford, £ndslvigh, Tavigtoisk. "I have found yo' r '[Demon' lusetticide'toibe the. best prepara- tion I ever uted for all kini s of insect pests on fruit trees. It de- stroys the black flies on cherries, red spider, &c., and eivea the trees a healthy look. 1 have tried it for mealy bug on orange trees, with very satisfactory results," n CT Ml £\ in Highly concentTaitcd. U k In V MM Non-Poisonous. Safe and Effective. Insecticide The BEST OF ALL Insecticides for ^^^^i^^HB the Garden. ^^^^^^^^ 1 Gall, will make from 100 to 160 Galls. " It IB a first- rate Insecticide lor fly and American bllffht on Irnit trees and roaes."— Mr. W. Earp, Head Sardener to tiie Ut. Hon. Joseph Chamberlaia. PRICES (carriaee paid) : Quart Tin, 2/0; l-Gall., 3/0; 1 Gan.»4/6;2 Gall. Drum, 8/6 4Gan. Drum^ 15/0; 10 GalL Drum» 35/0. ' The Boundary Chemical Co. Ld., Luton St., Liverpool. | 119 PLAIN HOKIZONTAL SUNDIAL WITH PEDESTAL. Makers of Vertical Sundials For Buildings, Churches, &c., &c- Aneroid Barometers Thermometers, And Turret Clocks Makers of Horizontal Sundials And Pedestals Suitable for Gardens, Parks , and Public Places. Surveying! Drawing, and Scientific Instruments of every Desonp '"^J^^^^^^^j jundial with Equation Table « Motto, pq Bain Gauges, - Garden Thermo meters. Anemo- meters, & all Scientific Instrum-ents Suitable for Fitting up. of Observatories. S S H 8 H I! CO 5g^ n H n H H Mr a H la ^-«».^te«=ese!=' Beauired. Agents — =^^^3=.- I- DADi/CD;6'QnN Seientifle Instru ment Makers. &^DIA? H0uPe*?2, CI^BKENWELL BD., LONDO.. E.c" ^ ILLDBIBATEi; PRICE LISTS AND BOOKLKT POST FBEE. Appointed by Royal Warrant Manufacturers of Horticultural Machinery to His Majesty Ring Edward VII. RANSOMES' LAWN MOWERS THE BEST IH THE WORLD. RANSOMES' ' ^ H ^ H i- » The Nurseries, Exmouth, Devon, Oct. 17th, 1903. Gentlemen, — I encloee cheque in settlement of account for Sulphur Vaporisers. I have givfen Ihem a thorough trial, and am more than pleased with the result. Generally hefore housinpr nay Show Chrysanthemum Plants each one is laid on its side and well syringed with some kind of Fungicide, with thejdea of destroying any Mildew or other disease. This is a tiresome and expensive item where several thousands of plants have to he so treated. With your Sulphur Vaporiser this is ohviated, for after thoroughly vaporising the house every spot or sympton of Mildew has disappeared. One variety was badly infected, and after the treatment mentioned I have been interested to note the gradual disappearance of the Mildew, the expanding blooms were in no way injured by the sulphur, and I consider the Vaporisers have already paid their cost, W. J, Godfrey, Chrysanthemum Specialist. SOLD BY— W. WELLS & Co., Ltd., Earlswood, Redhill, Surrey. MAN UFACTURERS— , Exors. ROBERT CAMPBELL, Water St., Manchester. 126 PATENT NICOTINA FUMIGATOR. The Best Fumigant for Smoking Greenhouses* Absolutely Non- Poisonous. Used by Mr. Wells in his Greenhouses with splendid remits. 1 lb. Packets, to smoke 3,000 cubic feet, is. 6d. , post free is. gd. 10 oz. ,, „ ,, 2,005 ,, ,, IS., post free IS. 3d. Manufactured only by SMITHSON&GO., MONTPELIER WORKS, BRISTOL. London A^ent : Mr. James George, 14, Redgrave Road, Putney, WELLS' L IST OF REQ UISITES, Chrysanthemum Boxes (Cupboards) for carrying 3 Trays of 12 £ s. d. Blooms, with extra space all round to prevent the Jlowei s from rubbins the sides, 2ca& i,'i\&n&\t%. Lock and Key complete ... i 2 6 Ditto, for 2 Trays, ditto o 19 6 Ditto, for I Tray, and 2 Handles 015 o Trays for staging 12 Blooms, painted and enamelled green, with legs which turn up under the tray while travelling ; full size for Japanese Blooms ... ... ... ... ... ... ...060 Ditto, ditto, for 12 Incurveds 056 Ditto, ditto, for 6 Japs 046 Ditto, ditto, for 6 Incurveds 043 Steel Tweezers for dressing or pulling out deformed pedals, 4 in., 5 in., 6 in., 7 in from 2s. 6d. each to 036 Wells' Waistcoat-Pocket Tweezers each o I Ivory ditto for dressing Incurved Blooms ... from 2s. each to o 3 Best Camel-Hair Brushes 010 Spring Holders for the Names of the Blooms, for fixing in front of the Exhibits, each one to hold 3 Names each 006 Cards for writing the Names on, to fit the above ... per doz. 001 Best Yellow Loam ... per yard, i8s. ; per bushel o i Best Coarse Bedfordshire Silver Sand ... , _^ 01 9 Leaf Mould ,. ... ,, ,, pig 128 Planet Jr. HAND TOOLS. Double Wheel Hoe, Cultivator, Rake and Plous:h. Price, Complete ... £2 6 6 Plain £17 (With Hoes only.) Single Wheel Hoe, Cultivator, Rake and Plough, Price, Complete £1 11 6 „ without Rakes and Leaf<; Lifter ... £17 6 „ Plain £110 (Hoes only). Complete Catalogue of Planet Jr. Hand Seed-Drills, &c., from AV. WELLS, The Earlswood Nurseries. Tools can be seen at work at the Nurseries, Earlswood,or at Merstham. FEINTED BY LOTK AND MALCOMSOS, LTD., LOHDOK AND REDHILI,,