ALBEUT R. MANN LIBRARY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass ^^"^'zr-^^- - - ~ ■-- From home Bakings, by Edna Evans San Francisco, 1912. iif) iCO =o I GO Ilo =00 iO I-* =cvj i03 ico ^JII. >v^^ ^^N*^, ^^ U^^iS\3$#. Vs^^"^ M^3S(jsaW P/^ ^ tWiiiS'Veaiaiw^iVjiiM'-i J\:~ ■. I f SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS \wfc\i^— ^ ^ ') M>^- M ^ fwvV ^Wk«.^^^3 l^"W»i«*W»f*«*li !?,-_ Sunday Miqbt Suppers =^ By CHRISTINE TERHUNE HERRICK JlaOmr of "The Expert Maid Servant," "The Qiafing-Dish Supper," etc. BOSTON DANA ESTES & COMPANY PUBLISHERS -1^ w eni.>(*-i"i.-»s^sfw TK ^ Copyright, tgoj By Dana Estes & Company All rights reserved SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS £ >\ ElecUotyped and Printed by C. H. Simonds & Co. Eri^ Boston, U.S. A. CONTENTS » ¥ Chapter Page I. THE HOME SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER . 11 II. THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER FOR IN- TIMATE GUESTS 23 III. THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER AS A SMALL SOCIAL FUNCTION ... 35 IV. THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER FOR HOT WEATHER 47 V. UNUSUAL SAVORIES AND SWEETS . 61 VI. COLD DISHES FOR THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER 75 VU. CHAFING-DISH CREATIONS ... 89 VIII. ADDITIONAL REQPES FOR SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER DAINTIES ... 103 M5 4>^ Mi nsv^K?)^ ,^r-i "vEB^ ;Vj^ VWy Wi-. -^^^^ a ^ i THE HOME SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER [y-i\=i===r^ z==/5lil '^) ^' SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS ¥ ¥ CHAPTER I THE HOME SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER IN most homes the Sunday night supper is a com- promise. Like the majority of compromises, it sat- isfies no one. It is an attempt to serve God and Mammon, respectively represented by the family's de- sires and the cook's preferences, and is thoroughly acceptable to neither. The members of the household, no matter how substemtial the midday meal with which they have overtaxed the digestions accustomed to a light luncheon, feel a hollow void, a dismeJ craving, as the hour approaches when dinner is usually served on the unhallowed days of the week. The spirit is willing to keep the Sabbath, but the flesh is weak. Despite long once-a-weekly training, it yearns for something better than it has known on most preceding Sunday nights. That would be a bold spirit who would venture to '^. '' ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS suggest a late dinner on Sunday. Common sense may advise it, the perishing body may cry out in protest against having its regular habits interfered with, cuid the digestion butchered to make a kitchen holiday. It is of no avail. Some few unregenerates there be who still persist in keeping their living even-threaded the whole week through, and who dine at the same hour on Sunday as on other days. But they don't win a martyr's crown or the kf^i^os that should be bestowed upon the heroic leaders of a popular reform. They are criticized adversely, as a rule, and the suf- ferers who make a merit of necessity by declaring they do not care for grapes anyhow, sissert boldly, " But we like supper once a week. We all enjoy it for a change." It is a change, there is no doubt of that! But is it really hailed with joy? Does the family assemble for it v\rith any measure of the pleasant anticipation that greets the EUinouncement, "Dinner is served"? 1 Irow not! Sweeping statements are always deingerous, but there is no one of ordinary candor who cannot marshal in his memory a dismal array of Sunday night supper- tables. As a rule, they are melancholy reminders of peist joys in the shape of the cold relics of Saturday ht ^^^^ ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS night's or Sunday noon's dinner. Baked meats that 1 1 • were known and loved earlier — when hot — now coldly furnish forth the evening meal. In nine cases out of ten the housekeeper has so strained her invent- ive powers by the effort to do the marketing of two days in one, to plan something that will be aveiilable I for the weish-day lunch and spare the cook too much I I labor over the wash-day dinner, that the provision for ; I the Sunday night supper seems a matter of the leist I I importance — litereJIy. The housekeeper leaves the j I meal to Providence, with the usual result that awaits upon blind trust in Providence unbacked by human endeavor. At the last moment the cold meat is sliced, the cold bread is cut, the cold sweet brought forth, and a calch-ets-catch-can meal is spread out to deaden hunger if it cannot tempt the appetite. The powers I I that be in the kitchen are possibly pleased. No others! Take the honest verdict of most citizens, and see if it would not be : " We don't care much for supper I at our house on Sunday night. You see, we have such a hearty meal m the middle of the day," etc. You recognize the formula? We have all heard it often enough. Yet there are great possibilities in the Sunday night % 1 f ^ ED SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS supper. It may be made a most attractive meal, which will render one willing to have it or another like it come again in a week, instead of arousing thankhibess that the Sunday night supper arrives but once in seven days. It will mean trouble, of course. If there is but one maid emd she goes out every other Sunday, and the family cannot flee for refuge to the house of a friend or to a restaurant alternate Sunday nights, after the fctshion of those who refuse to take the appointed discipline that comes their way, the housekeeper will have to cultivate the chafing-dish habit, make a study of salads, devote herself to the perused of cook-books that give attention to attractive cold dishes^ and even reconcile herself to half an hour in the kitchen on Sunday afternoon. Of course it is a nuisance. There are certeiin young housekeepers who have not yet overworked their ideals, and a few older ones who have preserved theirs by some special dispensation, who decletre they find joy in going into their kitchens once a week and getting supper. The great etrmy of women who keep metids are usually so discouraged by the difference between the kitchen as they wish it to be, and the kitchen as it is — a state of affairs which the preparation of the Sunday night supper affords exceptional opportunities 14 ^ w ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS for observing — that the delights of getting a meal even once a fortnight are not unmixed with distress. And when a woman does her own work all through the week, she is hardly to be blamed if, by the time Sunday night comes, she feels that she would like to drop the burden for awhile and give herself a few hours' rest before she resumes the load that is await- ing her on Monday morning. When I think of all this, I blush for shame that I should venture to criticize even dry slices of overdone beef, imchilled salads, emd stale bread, with perhaps Cctnned fruit emd cake to lend a pseudo-festive air to the occasion. Still, it would have been very little more trouble to make the beef hot in a savory sauce, to have the salad crisp and well dressed, to toast the bread. Or, better still, the Sunday night supper might have been plaimed for on Saturday morning. It is likely that the cake was made then in the thought of its use on Sunday. A litde forethought would have arranged that the same meat should not appeeir at both dinner and supper. Keep the beef left-overs until Monday, but don't have them when the more juicy and appetizing memories of their first appearance are still fresh on the palate. I have all sympathy for the woman who lives twelve SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS miles from a lemon, and further still from a fancy grocery. But there are few women who may not in this day and generation have m the house the emer- gency supplies that make a good hot dish for supper possible. Cheese is sJways with us and may appear in any one of a dozen forms. The tin can accom- panies the pioneer on his travels, and its contents may be converted into a relish that will redeem any supper from the charge of commonplaceness. The salad in its green variety caimot always be with us, but a sub- stitute for lettuce and chicory and endive and Romaine may be achieved by the aid of the cabbage, the potato, the onion, the egg, to say nothing of the canned asparagus, or tomato, or beet, or beeui, or green pea. A little thought will do it all, and more even than I have suggested. I have not touched upon eggs sis yet, except cis they may serve in a seJad. But the half has never been told of what the egg may do as a savory supper dish. Alone, in combination, hot, cold, boiled hard, plain, or with a sauce, elaborately or simply cooked — those who know eggs only as they have encoun- tered them in such primitive forms as boiled, fried, poached, or scrambled, have yet much, much to leam. And eggs, at least, are usually within reach. I guard m .£& SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS my statement, recollecting the temble deaith o( eggs familial to dwellers in the country, and comparatively unknown to those who live in cities. There are times of year when eggs are costly, but even at their high- est they are cheaper theui meat, and when combined with left-overs will go further than would seem cred- ible to the uninitiated. I have spoken of toast — toast the maligned, the mis- understood. Tliere are not wanting those who think they have known toast all their lives, and who yet have no knowledge of it at its highest perfection. It is worth the trouble to give them the joy which would accompeiny the great awakening that would be theirs could they once eat toast as it may be. The crust trimmed off, the bread cut neither too thick nor too thin, not too pale and not too brown, oversoftness and undue hardness both avoided, the butter evenly spread, not dumped to form one greasy hollow in the centre of the slice — such toast as this may make a Sunday night supper well worth while, even if served with plain cold meat Such buttered toast might well banish dememds for any variation in the bread supply, and yet even with this there may be an occasional new sensation plaimed. Anchovy toast, baked toast, tomato toast, egg toast — - -4m SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS here again is a field for new departures and many inventions. The home supper-table should attract the eye as well as coax the appetite. It should not be like the supper-tables of any common week-day night This is the time to bring forth the best china and glass, especially if the members of the family are going to wash them eifterwards. There should be the prettiest napery used. The table should have nothing of the slapdash about it. If there are younger members of die household who are urged to take part in getting the Sunday night supper, they should be given their heads in rendering the table as charming as possible. Let them plan surprises of any sort. If they wish to have home-made candies and salted nuts d their own manufacture as a part of the feast, encourage the inclinations. Don't let the meal be the scrap-bag of the commissariat or the left-over odd number of the week. Give it a chance to redeem itself from the obloquy into which it has generally fallen. I wish I could head an insunection against the Sunday night supper as it is usually met. It would be swept out of existence with a celerity that would be astonishing even m this day of rapid transit. Gone SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS forever would be the supper-table of one section of the country — the plate of cold chipped beef or dried codfish, the pile of white and brown bread, the little dishes of apple sauce, the large pale ginger cookies. Gone, too, would be that other variety of supper-table which thinks to make up for its lack of savory dishes by its much cake. I cun afrsiid even baked heans eind brown bread, beloved though they are by certain worthy beings, might not stand against the besom of destruction. Instead of any or all of these the supper-table that should supplant them should be a board of surprises. The Sunday night supper should be the unexpected feast of the week. At this meal the family would never know what to look for. One time the repast would be hot and savory, the next it would be cold but no less savory. New and startling salads would make their first bow, so to speak, at the Sunday night supper-table, and it would be the housekeeper's dis- sipation to devise and search out novelties for this meal. Here she should give rein to any pioneering or adventurous spirit she had in her, euid train her family to equal daring. All this does not mean — as it may sound — that the Sunday night supper should be an expensive or unwholesome meal. All I plead for is its release fcom SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS the trammels of conventionality. Forget the hackneyed, the usual, the stereotyped. Essay new endeavors. Make this the festival of the week. In language suitable to the day, let the Sunday night supper have free course and be glorified. 3 ; THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER FOR INTIMATE GUESTS w ^ SKWBW5:»E«Brt'-J w^ —^ CHAPTER II THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER FOR INTIMATE GUESTS THE thoughtful housekeeper will refrciin from making unnecessciry toil for the man servant and maid servant within her gates on the first day of the week, but she will so plan her work that she may have a place for a friend on Sunday at her dinner or supper table, and feel that she is indulging in one of those "works of necessity and mercy," which are counte- neuiced even by the Westminster catechism. The noon dinner has its advantages ets a time for the intimate guest, but they are not equal to those of the Sunday night supper. There is almost always something that may be done on Sunday afternoon. Calls may be paid, in tolerable weather it is the time preeminently for long weJks or for lazy indoor rest. But Sunday evening is different. Then the hours may be inclined to hang a trifle heavily euid one welcomes a fcishion of spending them pleaseintly. When I speak of intimate guests at the Sunday w — ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS night supper I refer to those for whom no elaborate preparations need be made. If the right sort of effort is given to convert the often cold and unattractive Sunday night supper into a pleeising and appetizing meal, no greater labor is involved by the presence of a visitor than the placing of another plate at the table, and the Welshing of a few more dishes ctfterwards. I know of some households in which the guests are allowed to come out into the kitchen and take merry part in the preparation of the meal. The recollection is with me of a certain spotless kitchen, its walls covered with enamelled blue and white oilcloth, the painted floor softened here and there by a rug, where I have seen one {Toung man laboriously toasting bread while an- other devoted the best powers of his mind to making drip coffee. The mushrooms that were to go on the toast were cooked afterwards in the chafing-dish, by the daughter of the house, while the son compounded the salad on the supper-table. Such a feast as this is an especial treat to the young men and women who are away from home and dwell in boarding-houses. Mission work it might be called, to invite them for the Sunday night meal that is so forlorn to the exile from home comforts. Perhaps the boon is . as great to the overworked 24 sP ErlH i! i SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS housekeeper, who is tired to death of her own table and longs for a taste of food that has been planned and purchased by some one else. She knows how to appreciate the good things that are set before her! It is a mistake to think that a servant must be kept at home for such a festivity as this. Perhaps it is a help to have her when the labor of washing up succeeds the meal, — but even this may be turned into a frolic. The work of making ready for the feast may nearly all have been done earlier in the day or on Saturday morning. It is little trouble to pleui out a few attractive menus for Sunday night suppers. Cold meat is often taken for granted, and there are combinations m which it may be attractive. But if the meat is cold there should be something to offset it For insteuice, there may be cold meat and a salad, or cold meat and aspic jelly. These do well for weinn weather, but in winter the stomach pleads for something more savory. Then is the time to have fried green peppers or fried tomatoes, — when fresh tomatoes can not be bought the whole canned tomatoes sure excellent to have fried or devilled. Lyon- naise potatoes are good with cold meat, Etnd there are other savory ways of preparing vegetables. But perhaps cold meat is more attractive when it is 25 tl SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS not cold, — if the bull may be pardoned. That is, it may be made hot in some way that wrill tempt the palate far more than if it appeared m its cold state. Such cookery may be done in the kitchen or on th6 table in a chafing-dish. Or the cold meat may be dispensed with altogether and its place taken by a dish of eggs or one of shell-fish or cheese. The dwellers near the coast may make good use of oysters and clams and scallops and lobsters; those who live further inleuid will find their mainstay in eggs and cheese. The salad is not to be overlooked. If one can not obtain the green salad except at a high price, — and there are localities where it can oiJy be found during the weather when it will grow out-of-doors, — vegetables may be used in salad and will be found delicious. There are good boiled dressings, — nearly all housekeepers have two or three on their list, — and some of the best vegetable salads sure better with a boiled dressing than even with a mayonnaise. On the question of sweets perhaps it is not neces- sary to dwell at length. Generally they are better understood them are savories. The housekeeper turns to her store of canned or preserved fruit for her Sunday night dessert, suid this she supplements by cake made SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS on Saturday. Or she prepares jelly or blanc-mange or pastry on Saturday. The sweet requires less thought than euiything else. There are some households, mostly of New Elng- Ictnd origin, where brown bread and baked beans are a welcome dish for Sunday night supper. If the dwellers in other parts of the country can not quite understamd this taste, they may yet respect it aad con- gratulate its p>ossessors upon the ease with which they Cctn gratify it. FRIED TOMATOES ♦ ♦ If the tomatoes are fresh, cut them Into thick slices, without peeling. If Ceumed whole, slice them, and if the ordineury canned tomatoes are used, select the firmest portions and drain ofi the liquor. Put a table- spoonful of butter into a bying-pan or into the blazer of a cheding-dish ; lay in the tomatoes ; if fresh, let them cook, until tender; if canned, until hot through. Season with salt and pepper. CREAMED TOMATOES » » These may be fried as in the foregoing recipe. When hot through, draw them to one side of the pan and stir into the tomato juice and melted butter two sK " ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS tablespoonfuls of flour. Stir quickly, that it may blend before it browns, add a scauit half-pint of milk, and continue to stir until you have a smooth sauce. Move the tomatoes back into the sauce ; season and serve. BEEF WITH TOMATO SAUCE ¥ * Heat together a tablespoon of butter, two table- spoonfuls of good tomato catsup, and a cupful of stock, soup, or gravy. When this is smoking hot, lay in the slices of beef, turn them over in the sauce until heated through, add pepper and salt, and serve. Any cold meat may be used in this way, and veal or mutton is even better tham beef when weurmed over in this sauce. DEVILLED BEEF OR MUTTON ♦ * Rather underdone meat should be used. Work a saltspoonful of dry mustard and a dash of cayenne into a tablespoonful of butter, and cream this, using a fork, with a teaspoonful each of vinegar and Worces- tershire sauce and a half-teaspoonful of salt. Have your meat cut into rather thin slices ; make gashes in this with a knife and rub in the " devilled " mixture. Heat a little butter in a frying-pan, — very little, — and grill the meat in this. If desired, it may be cooked in the blazer of a chafing-dish. 28 El-TH: ""^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS SAVORY SMOKED BEEF ♦ * Heal a cupful of milk over the fire or in a chafing' dish and put with it a tablespoonful of butter, and cook until melted. Lay m a cupful or more of dried beef, cut into rather small pieces or thin slices ; cook five minutes, turn in two beaten eggs, and stir until the sauce is thick. Add a little pepper and serve on toEist or on hot crackers SAVORY MINCE OF COLD MEAT ♦ ¥ jt ii This CcUi be prepared in a chafing-dish. Melt a | tablespoonful of butter or good dripping, auid add to it half a teaspoonful of onion juice. Put into this chopped cold meat of any sort, and moisten it to the consistency you desire with the gravy saved from the roast. Chicken is especially good cooked in this way. Season with celery salt and pepper, and, with any- thing except chicken, put in a tablespoonful of Worces- j ]? tershire sauce at the last. If beef is used, as much chopped potato as meat may be added if desired. FRIED CHEESE SANDWICHES ¥ ¥ Grate a cupful of soft fresh cheese. Make it into a peiste with cream, and season with a quarter tea- spoonful of salt and a pinch of paprica or black SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS pepper. Spread this on thin slices of bread, from which the crust has, been cut, and put the spread sides together like sandwiches. Lay in a little hot butter in a frying pan or blazer, and brown lightly. AN UNUSUAL POTATO SALAD ♦ * Every one knows the stock potato salad. The fol' lowing is a different thing: Rub two cups of metshed potato through a colan- der. Chop fine three-quarters of a cupful of white cabbage. Mince two tablespoonfuls of gherkin pickles, pound the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and mix all together. Prepare the dressing, by heating to boiling half a cupful of vinegeir, stirring into it a beaten egg, a tablespoonful of butter, a teeispbonful of white sugcir, a ScJtspoonful of celery saJt, and black pepper and ScJt to tetste. Wet a teaspoonful of flour with a little cold vinegEir and add to these. Cook all together, stirring constantly until the dressing thickens, zind then pour it upon the salad. Toss and mix with a silver fork smd let the salad be ice cold before serving. If chopped celery can be used instead of the cabbage, the salad is better. It is years since I first ate this salad down in the 1^ " - ^ m SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS Old Dominion, but I think it now, as I thought it then, the best potato salad I ever tasted. CABBAGE AND CHEESE » ♦ This is another dish that may be made ready in advance and that is delicious with cold meat Boil the cabbage in two waters, drain, euid, when cold, chop it Put a layer of it, well-seasoned vnth salt and pepper, in a buttered bake-dish. Pour on this a white sauce, made by cooking together a tablespoonful each of butter and flour until they bubble, mixing with these a cupful of milk cind stirring until aH are thick cuid well blended. Season v\rith salt and pepper. On the white sauce, when it has been poured over the cab- bage, sprinkle a heaping tablespoonful of grated cheese. Put m more cabbage, and repeat the sauce and cheese until the dish is filled, making cheese with a few fine crumbs the last layer. Bake, covered, about half an hour, then uncover and brown. 31 s ^■3 B#fc THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER AS A SMALL SOCIAL FUNCTION i ^ m \ w '^ d W ' — ^ CHAPTER III THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER AS A SMALL SOCIAL FUNCTION OUNDAY entertaining has gained in popularity ^^ during the past ten years. As we have drifted further away from the Jewish Sabbath with its Puri- tan modifications we have achieved a compromise between that rigidly observed rest day and the Con- tinental SabbatL The latter does not bid fair to gain a strong place in the siffections of the people at leu'ge. No infusion of foreign blood, no admiration of foreign customs by the smart sets in big cities, is likely to have a lasting effect upon the great mass of the people who were nurtured in the traditions held by the founders of the republic. Yet one extreme has happily modified the other. Few are the Sabbatarians even who do not appre- ciate the fact that Sunday should mean a change of thought and a relaxation to those who work hard all the week. Moreover, there are busy men and women who are too much driven on week-days by "^ — S i tb SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS inexorable business to find any time for social rec- reation. These do not yeam for Sunday night theatres and concerts or large and fashionable assem- blages in the afternoon and evening of that day. They would revolt against this almost as vigorously as one of the Pilgrim Fathers himself vrould have done. But when it is a question of a pleasant home- like little gathering on Sunday evening, where from four to a dozen pleasant people gather at the house of one of them to eat ctnd chat ^together, he con- aders it another matter, and justly. This is no gay affctir, which smacks of Sabbath-breaking, but a rest- ful reunion where those who have striven mightily all the week may eat and drink as friends, and gather courage and stimulus to help them through the hard work of the week that lies before them. There is a tremendous help to work in such gatherings of congenial souls. Very long ago it was said that a& iron sharpeneth iron, so a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend. And Lowell — a much later but still worthy authority ! — remarked that books were excellent dry fodder, you could sustain life on them, but only the true living pasturage is men, — or words to that effect Never vras there a brain 36 4^N >^-sji»tiuita.tr*'. ll fi I '^ CHAPTER VI COLD DISHES FOR THE SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER T HAT is an old story of the English restaurant proprietor who inquired carefully as to the ritualistic tendencies of the clergymen for whom he was to provide a dinner. He explamed his interest thus: "If they eue 'igh Church, they wants more wine, if Broad Church, more wittles." Some such distinction as this the hostess must bear in mind when plamiing the cold dishes for her Sun- day night supper. The tsistes of her family will probably be less exacting than those of the formal guest, — or, at least, she prefers to think so. It saves her trouble. Thus much may be said for her, to remove from her the stigma of an unwillingness to take as much pains for her own as for strangers, that she knows what the members of her household like and therefore does -not have to expend so much cel- lular tissue m devising novelties for them as she would for guests. S^ ^ z^lhi w ir SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS Moreover, the housekeeper joyously refuses to as- sume responsibility for the digestions of the visitors. They are the keepers of theii own gastronomic con- sciences. Her part is to put temptation in their way, while to them it falls to resist the lure, or to yield to it graciously. The consequences of either course are in their own chsurge. With the home people it is another matter. When the housekeeper places before them food that is likely to disagree with them, she knows that upon her will devolve the care of the sick and suffering. This knowledge natureJly hampers her inclination to plan for her Sunday night supper as though there were no hereafter. So, when she has only her family to feed, the housekeeper gives them beef loaf, — or even veal loaf, if she be of a deuring nature, — cold meat in iispic, jellied chicken, jellied tongue, stuffed ham, simple salads, innocuous sweets. It is another matter when she has guests to consider. For them she pre- pares chaudfroids of more or less elaborateness, spends her ingenuity on salads, and lets her feuicy go on sweets. The results are pleasing if possibly per- nicious. Yet no one ■wAi a fair digestion and a particle of "sporting blood" need fear such dishes as 76 ' ■"■W Mii —H i Ll W 3x ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS those for which the lecipes follow. And the timorous or dyspeptic would better eat at home and take no chcuices at an alien supper boeird. The cold dishes for the Sunday night supper may be inexpensive or costly as suits the disposition or the purse of the housekeeper. If she has a nice taste in truffles or pate de foie gras aad out-of-season game she may have the supposedly simple meal the highest priced of the week. On the other hand, with skill in flavoring euid seasoning and aptitude for dainty cookery she can procure a result that would be cis satisfactory as the other to all but the treuned gourmet, at a moderate outlay. One word more. G)ld dishes must be cold! This does not mean lukewarm or partially cold, but thoroughly chilled. There is nothing more de- appetizing theui to have dishes meant to be cold merely chilly, except to have dishes that should be hot only tepid. Serve your cold dishes from cold platters or bowls on to cold plates. Garnish the food attracdvely, and remember that its appeareuice has almost as much importance as its tsiste in rendering it tempting to the palate. A pleasing touch is given to a supper that may be otherwise plain by prefacing the meal with an appetizer SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS of some sort. One of the most attractive of these is a clam cocktail. Make this by mixing together a tablespoonful each of vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, cmd grated horseradish, two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, hcJf a teeispoonful each of salt and Tabasco sauce, cmd two tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup. Make very cold and put into this sauce two dozen small clams. Serve in glasses. Or you may arrange the clams on ice and put the sauce in a cup made of a halved green pepper, and set this m the centre of the plate on which the clams are served. CLAM CANAPES ♦ • Spread brown bread with a mayonnaise dressing to which has been added a little Worcestershire sauce, and put on the bread a mixture of a dozen clams, cut in small pieces and mixed with a half-teaspoonful of capers, two tablespoonfuls of horseradish, salt and pepper to laste. CAVIAR CANAPES ♦ ♦ Cut crescents or rectangles of white or brown bread, and butter them lightly. Spread thinly with Russian caviar, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice W ™v^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS on the caviar, gamish the dish with watercress or sliced tomatoes. VEAL LOAF ♦ » Boil one pound of lean veal in enough water to cover it. When done set it to one side to cool while you boil down the liquor in which it was cooked to about half a cupful. Add to this a saltspoonful of celery salt, the grated peel of a lemon and half the juice, common salt and white pepper to taste. Chop the veeJ fine with a tablespoonful of lean heun. Put the gravy with the meat suid turn all into a round mould. Lay a plate on the surface of the meat, cover with a heavy weight, and leave until the next day. By that time it will be firm emd may be turned out on a flat dish and cut into slices. Gamish with parsley and slices of lemon or with sliced tomatoes. LIVER LOAF ♦ » Boil a lamb's liver until tender m water to which a sliced onion and a stalk of celery have been added. When cold, wipe the liver dry and put it through a meat chopper. It should be almost a powder when ready to season. Rub it to a paste with half a teaspoonful of onion juice, a tablespoonful SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS of Worcestershire sauce, one of mushroom catsup and three of melted hutter. Butter a rather small mould with straight sides and press the liver mixture down into it. This loaf is made more elegant by the addi- tion of a few truffles arranged here and there in the pate. Leave it on the ice until just before serving. Tum out on a flat plate, garnish attractively, and cut in thin slices in serving. This is a tolerable imitation of pate de foie gras. QUICK ASPIC JELLY ♦ ♦ Purchase a quart can of good tinned consomme. There are two or three' excellent makes on the market. If not sufficiently seasoned, put it over the lire with a sliced onion, a stalk of celery, and a bay leaf, and simmer for half an hour. Season it with a tablespoonful of turagon vinegar or, if you do not like the tarragon flavor, with as much lemon juice. Soak half a box of gelatine in enough warm water to cover it, for half an hour, heat the consomme to boiling, add the gelatine, stir until dissolved, strain, and set aside to cool. It may be cut into dice as a garnish, or meat or vegetables may be jellied in it If there is time to make the consomme by boiling 80 /^ ^m ,r ± SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS beef, it is well to add to this a well-cracked knucide of veal. When the stock has been made and cleared, proceed as with the quick aspic. DUCK OR CHICKEN IN JELLY * ¥ Cut cold roast duck or chicken into neat pieces. Wet the bottom of a mould with cold water, pour in a little of the aspic, which should already have begim to form, arrange sliced hard boiled eggs and dice of beet root or capers about the mould. Pour in a little of the jelly, lay in the meat, put in more jelly, and so on until the mould is full. The final layer should be of jelly. Set the mould on the ice for several hours before the contents are to be used. Garnish attractively when turned out. An excellent idea is to arrange the jelly in individual moulds and serve one to each guest, on a lettuce leaf. , CHICKEN GALANTINE » * Select a good ^ed fowl, put it over the fire in cold water with a bunch of soup herbs. Bring gradu- eJIy to a boil and cook slowly until the meat is tender. Take it from the fire and let it get cold in the liquor. Cut the meat from the bones, rejecting skin and gristle, and slice the meat neatly. Boil the 81 ^_ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS liquor down to one quart, strain it and return it to the (ire with the white and cracked shell of an egg. Boil up once, remove the scum, add a heaping table- spoonful of gelatine which has been soaked in a little Wctrm water, remove from the fire and strain. Season vsrith salt to taste, a saltspoonful of celery salt and the same of paprica, a teaspoonful each .of lemon juice and of minced parsley. Wet a mould with plain sides, pour in a little of the jelly, ctrramge a layer of the meat and then a little more jelly. Put next a layer of thin slices of cold boiled Ivam or tongue, more jelly and then the chicken again. In the crevices between the meat place bicuiched almonds cut in strips, a few pistache nuts and truffles, if you wish them, stoned olives sliced, and a few capers. Make this the day before it is to be eaten and keep on the ice until it is time to turn it out. TONGUE MOUSSE * » Chop very fine two cupfuls of cold boiled tongue. Reject any portions that seem tough. Season with a little French musteird cmd paprica. Mix with a gill of liquid aspic jelly made according to either of the directions given, turn into a buttered mould, and place on the ice for several hours before it is to be used. SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS CHICKEN MOUSSE ♦ » This may be made like the tongue mousse, except that the sesisoning should differ. Use celery salt cuid a little onion juice in place of the mustard. It will be enriched and improved if a tablespoonful of pate de foie gras is worked in with the chicken. Truffles may ako be used if desired. At the last add a cup of whipped cream to which has been put a teaspoonful of gelatine that hais been dissolved in Wcirm water and then allowed to cool, and a table- spoonful of sherry. Beat all well together, turn into a mould wet with cold water, and leave for several hours before serving. LOBSTER SALAD IN THE SHELL ♦ ♦ Prepare a lobster salad by cutting the fresh lobster into neat dice. To two cupfuls of this add a tea- spoonfiJ of Russian caviare. Mingle all with a good mayoimaise dressing to which has been added a half- pint of whipped cream just before it is put with the salad. To serve this in an unusual aad attractive maimer, scrape dean the back shells of the lobster emd fill these with the salad. Give one to each person, gar- nishing with cress and olives. This is a variety from ^ •' 4 SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS the stctndard method of serving lobster salad sad will be welcome as a novelty. TOMATOES WITH WHIPPED CREAM ♦ ♦ This is another novelty and deserves to be better knovra. Select letrge, firm tomatoes, throw them in hot water for a few moments to loosen the skins, remove these and put the tomatoes at once on the ice. Let them become thoroughly chilled. When ready to serve, cut each tomato in half crosswise, sprinkle v^rith ScJt and paprica emd heap on each half a tablespoonful of whipped cream. Elat as a salad or an entree or as aa accompaniment to cold meat. FROZEN PEACHES WITH ICE-CREAM ♦ * Letrge firm peaches should be chosen for this. Peel carefully and cut each in half. Pack in an ice cave or freezer for two or three hours, until well frappe. Have ready rounds of sponge or angel cake. Lay one of the peach-heJves on each of these, sur- round the cake with ice-cream or whipped cream, and put a large spoonful of ice-cream in the place left vacant by the peach stone. -^T ^ ^ ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS FIG AND NUT JELLY » ♦ Wash a cupful of pulled figs in cold water. Put them over the fire in two cups of cold water and stew until tender. Take them from the liquor, put to it a half-cupful of sugar and boil until the syrup thickens. Chop the figs into small pieces and add to them a couple of dozen almonds, blanched and chopped. Have ready half a box of gelatine which has been soaked for half an hour in a cupful of warm water. Dissolve it in a cupful of boiling water, add to it the fig liquor — there should be at least three gills of this, — and a gill of sherry. Strain dirough a fine vsore sieve and turn into the gleiss or silver dish from which you mean to serve it. When it is partially formed, — enough to keep the figs and nuts from sinking to the bottom, — stir these in. Serve I ice cold with whipped cream. STEWED FIGS WITH CREAM ♦ ♦ Prepare the figs eis in the preceding recipe by washing and stewing. Cook down the syrup until thick. Pour it over the figs and set the dish away in the ice. Just before serving heap whipped cream on the figs. This is a simple and delicious dessert ^\ " /^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS r MARSHMALLOWS AND MARASCHINO ♦ * Cut marshmallows in half and arrange them in a glass or silver bowl with half as memy Meu°etschino cherries as there are marshmallows. Shell and blanch a half-cupful of English walnuts and chop them fine. Whip light half a pint of cream, beating into it three or four tablespoonfuls of Maraschino liquor from the cherries. If a really strong flavor of the Mareischino is desired it is better to use the pure liquor. In that case half as much of this as of the syrup will be i sufficient. Into the cream thus whipped and flavored I? I stir the chopped nuts and heap on top of the marsh- I I mallows and cherries. Garnish the whipped cream with more of the cherries. Do not make this dish too long before it is to be used or the marshmallows will become inconveniently sticky. ^ ' ===m CHAPTER VII CHAFING-DISH CREATIONS THE chafing-dish began as a fashion and developed into a fad. Thence it hais quietly grown to be a friend. No one goes wild now over the possi- bilities of the chafing-dish, eind every one, man, woman, and child, is not taking lessons in its use. But there are few homes where you do not find it, and nowhere is it more serviceable and welcome than at the Sunday ni^t supper. "All may have the flower now, for all have got the seed." There are few so ignorant that they cannot compound a Welsh rabbit or accomplish lobster Newburg or achieve a Scotch woodcock. The merits of these may waver, but the dish can at least be eaten, — and that is much. Most of us remember some of the earlier chafing-dish combina- tions which no society breeding, no Christian unselfish- ness, could have aided us to swallow. Now, however, when the majority of amateur r=HV > — tf!+n ri'-Tfir SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS cooks have progressed beyond the scrambled-egg stage, those who have an ambitious bent are on the lookout for new exploits in the chafing-dish line. Hiey turn scornfully from the old standbys and seek fresh and astonishing creations. It is for the benefit of these searchers after novelty that the following recipes have been brought together. Some of them may be ii f' I. I i I ^ i merely old friends with new faces, or new names, — | i which amounts to pretty nearly the same thing. But k [| until some one carries out the desire of the harassed f i i '* young housekeeper who wished that there would be invented a new animal, we must be content with re- combinations and with the freshness that comes with i new seasonings, new mixtures, and new titles. n t The daring chafing-dish cook is the one who i | achieves success. There are few things that cannot be done in a chafibg-dish, if one knows how. The greatest aid one can have to happy results is found in a bain-marie, either the regulation article that goes by that name or one that is improvised by the aid of a vessel of water set over the alcohol lamp or on a gas plate, so that in it or over it may be kept warm the first items of what might be called the two-part dishes. A length of gas-tubing, a cheap gas plate or gas stove on a side table will enable one to improvise, 90 f li; '(tEJ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS vvith the aid of a big dripping-pan and two or three saucepiins, as satisfactory a bain-marie as the high- i priced French utensil of that name. Oysters, one of the great reliances of the chafing- .' ^ J » dish cook in winter, eire less popular in summer. -11 I Yet even at that season one may yield to a fond- ness for oysters and serve them on a chilly Sunday night, with bacon, m the dish variously known, — according to the taste or habit of mind of the cook, — as "little pigs in blankets," "angels on horseback," or "devils on horseback." With any name the method of preparation is virtually the same and the dish is almost always welcome. In summer cleuns are in their glory and crabs and lobsters are in season. It ^ J B the time when mushrooms grow out-of-doors, eggs are at their lowest ebb of price, and fruits and vege- tables may be experimented with at almost no expense. Moreover, the chafing-dish is especially valuable in summer becauses it enables one to tempt the appetite of her household or guests without the necessity of a kitchen fire. Even in our tropic climate there are times m midsummer when a hot savoury is welcome on the Sunday night supper-table. This the chafing- dish will provide and no other fire will be needed -'^.. . .91 SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS beyond the alcohol blaze. Salads, sandwiches, iced diinks, fruit, or chilled sweets will supply the rest of the meal. EGGS A LA NEWBURG ♦ ♦ Melt a tablespoonful of butter in the blazer and, when it is hot, stir into it a teaspoonful of cornstarch. As soon as these are blended pour in a cup of rich milk, — cream is better, if you can get it. When the sauce thickens turn in six hard-boiled eggs, cut into neat pieces, and let these cook until hot through. Stir in drop by drop two well beaten eggs, a half- teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper, £uid a tablespoonful of sherry. Serve on toeist or crackers. SPANISH EGGS ¥ ¥ Put together in the chafing-dish a tablespoonful of butter, a gill of good gravy or stock, an onion, sliced and minced, or a teaspoonful of onion juice, a half- cup of thick stewed tomato, a green pepper, from which the seeds have been removed, minced fine, euid a dozen olives, also minced. Let all simmer together, stirring constantly, for ten minutes. Should you choose to cook this part of the dish in the double boiler the cookery will not require such close m - ^ f ^ i i SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS watching. If this is done, the vegetables must cook for fifteen minutes. When the time is up, stir into the mixture of vegetables six eggs and cook until these are thick. If the other ingredients have cooked so rapidly that they have become rather dry put m a tablespoonful more of butter, or a little more stock. For those who like the taste of salad oil this may be substituted for the butter, but as there aie cer- tain persons who object to the flavor it is not wise to try the experiment without being sure of the company. At the last add a teaspoonful of salt and serve. EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS ¥ ♦ Select good mushrooms of tolerable uniformity of size. Peel them and lay them in a couple of table- spoonfuls of butter in the double boiler of the chafing-dish. Cover closely and cook for about ten minutes, or imtil the mushrooms etre tender. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper and take them out with a fork, lay them on a hot dish, aad into the butter and mushroom liquor left in the pan turn six well beaten eggs and a gill of cream. Set the pan directly over the flame and cook, stirring all the time, until the eggs have thickened. Add a half teaspoon- ib , 1. < £ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS ful of salt and a dash of paprika and poui the eggs over and around the mushrooms on a flat dish. Or you may put the mushrooms back into the chafing- dish with the eggs and serve from the blazer. HARD BOILED EGGS IN CREAM SAUCE ♦ ♦ Boil eggs hard in the blazer of the chafing-dish. The water should be boiling when they go in and they must cook for ten minutes. Take them out, wrap them in a napkin, emd put into the chafing-dish a tablespoonful each of butter and of flour. Cook together until they bubble, turn in a half-pint of cream and stir to a thick smooth sauce. Season this with ten drops of onion juice, a generous dash of paprika, a saltspoonful of celery salt, and a teaispoon- ful of Worcestershire sauce. Shell the boiled eggs as quickly as possible and pop them into this sauce. They should still be hot and a moment in the sauce will be all diat b needed before you serve them on toast If you wish, instead of putting them into the sauce you may have a bit cut off of the bottom of each egg so that it will stand, set them upright in a flat dish and pour the boiling sauce over and around them. 94 SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS HARD BOILED EGGS WITH CHEESE i» * Prepare the eggs and the sauce as above directed, but just before putting the eggs into the sauce stir into this a heaping tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese. It will quickly melt and string, and at this stage the eggs may go in. i i i AN "ENGLISH MONKEY" ¥ ♦ Put together in the inner vessel of your chafing- dish a cupful of cream, half a cupful of bread crumbs, two cupfuls of grated cheese, and a pinch of soda. Cook imtii all are melted and blended. Stir in then two beaten eggs, a half-teaspoonful of paprika, and a scant teaspoonful of salt As soon as the mixture thickens from the eggs it is ready to serve on hot crackers or toast. As will be seen, this is a modifica- tion of a Welsh rabbit and is much like what is known to us as a cheese fondu or a temperance Welsh rabbit BECHAMEL EGGS ♦ ♦ Cook together in a chafing-dish a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour until they are blended. Add to them a cupful of well-seasoned white stock and stir tmtil the sauce thickens. Put in a tablespoonful of m : ( ^ W ^ SUrJlDAY NIGHT SUPPERS capers, a heaping teaspoonful of minced parsley, and salt to taste. If the stock was sufficiently salted in the first place, no more will be needed now. Lay in six hard boiled eggs that have been cut into quarters lengthwise and then cut across once. Let these get hot, put in one teaspoonful of lemon juice, ctnd serve. STEWED MUSHROOMS ♦ ¥ Rather small mushrooms of uniform size should be selected for this dish, and, failing them, the French champignons will serve. If the fresh mushrooms are used they must, of course, be stemmed and peeled. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in the double boiler of the chafing-dish, lay in the mushrooms, and sprinkle them with a little salt and pepper. Simmer imtil tender. Add to them a gill of cream, cook for five minutes, and serve on hot buttered toast. MUSHROOMS AND BACON * » Fry thin slices of breakfast bacon crisp in the blazer. Take them out and keep them hot while you cook in the bacon fat fresh mushrooms, which have been stemmed and peeled. Keep the dish covered while the cooking of these goes on and use f! SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS a low flame. Serve bacon and toast together. If you wish you can add eggs to the mushrooms when they are tender and serve the three dainties together. OYSTER OMELET * ♦ This is a dish which requires quick work to be well done. Put the oysters over the flame in their own liquor, using the lower patt of the chafing-dish. Cook them until they begin to curl just a little, dust them with salt and pepper, and set them, covered, over hot water. Have ready the blazer, or better still, the flat omelet pan, such as may be purchased for a chafing-dish, put in it two tablespoonfuls of butter and melt this over a quick flame. The five eggs that are to make the omelet should have been beaten, seasoned, iuid mixed with a gill of milk. Pour into the pan and cook quickly, loosening the omelet from the pan with an omelet knife. As soon as the omelet is " set," lay the oysters on one-half of it, turn the other half over the oysters, and slip to a hot platter. The great object is to keep the oysters from becoming either cold or tough while waiting for the eggs to cook. i SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS CHICKEN AND ASPARAGUS TIPS ♦ * 1 1 Cook together in the blazer a tablespoonful of but- ter and one of flour unt3 they bubble, and pour upon them a cupful of half -milk and hiJf- cream. When you have stirred this to a smooth sauce, lay m two cupfuls of cold chicken, cut into neat dice, and a cupful of boiled asparagus tips. Let all get hot together and then stir in slowly one well-beaten egg. Season to taste with pepper and seJt and serve on toast, either on a platter or directly from the blazer to the individual plate. 5 VEAL AND ASPARAGUS TIPS * ♦ This may be prepared in exactly the same way, being careful that the veal is tender and well cooked. Sweetbreads may be cooked in like faishion, first parboiling and blanching the sweetbreads. This is done by boiling them for ten minutes and then throwing them into cold water. ASPARAGUS OMELET * * This may be prepared like oyster omelet, except that the tips must be boiled until tender before the omelet is made, or if the cold boiled tips aie used g ^ .:=z. =Vgg SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS they must be made and kept hot until the omelet is is ready. STRAWBERRY OMELET ♦ ♦ Cap medium sized beiries and lay them in the blazer of the pam with a tablespoonful of sugar to a cupful of the berries and just enough water to keep them from burning. Simmer them for five or six minutes, imtil the fruit seems to be cooked. Set it aside then to keep warm, — if covered, the fruit will hold its heat without putting over hot water, — while you make an omelet as previously directed. Lay the fruit in it before folding, and, after it is folded, sprinkle the omelet with powdered sugeir. This makes a delicious dessert Raspberries or peaches may be used in place of the strawberries. One word of caution may be expedient, even to the experienced che£ng-dish cook. Try no new dishes when guests are present, if they are persons concern- ing whom you have the least diffidence. 99 ^ u ADDITIONAL RECIPES FOR SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER DAINTIES ' i i\ — ,- m w ErD- l:J ^^== ^ CHAPTER VIII ADDITIONAL RECIPES FOR SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPER DAINTIES DISHES prepared by any of the following recipes are especially suitable for the Sunday night supper. Those that are not served cold may either be cooked in the chafing-dish or else prepared in advance, so that all they will require will be a few minutes in the oven to make them ready for the table. With the aid of these recipes and those already gjven the question of what to have for supper Sunday night should cease to possess the dignity of a problem. ANCHOVY TOAST ♦ * Cut rather thin slices of stale bread into rounds with a biscuit cutter. Toast them lightly and spread with butter. Cover each slice thickly with the white and yolk of a hard boiled egg, chopped fine, and in the centre of the round lay two anchovies, first free- ing them from oil. This dish may be served cold or set in the oven long enough to become heated. 'r ^ ^g g^p===========^ "^ ""h SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS CAVIARE TOAST ¥ ♦ Prepare the rounds of toast as above. After buttering, spread with Russian cavisu'e, and squeeze on this a little lemon juice. Serve cold. Elither of the preceding may be varied^ by substituting a slice of raw tomato for the hard boiled egg. JELUED OYSTERS * ¥ Make aa aspic jelly according to directions already given. In seasoning add to it a few tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Wet a mould with cold water, pour a little of the jelly into it, etnd when partially formed lay oysters upon this. Pour in more jelly and then another layer of oysters, — do not put these loo dose together, — and continue thus until the mould is filled. Or you may use small individual moulds, allowing from four to six oysters for each person. In serving turn out on lettuce leaves, and pass a good mayoimaise with the dish. SHRIMPS IN TOMATO ASPIC * ♦ Strain the liquid from a can of tomatoes euid put it over the fire with a couple of slices of onion, a stalk of celery, a clove and a little parsley. Simmer thirty minutes. Soak quarter of a box of gelatine in m ^ 1 SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS r a half-cup o{ water while the tomato is cooking and at the end of the haif-hour pour the boiling liquid on the gelatine. Stir until this is entirely dissolved, and turn into a mould wet with cold water, first add- ing salt and pepper to taste. If you have a little clear consomme m the house it is an addition to the flavor, but in all there should not be more than a pint of the liquid to this amount of gelatine. If a larger quantity of the aspic is needed, increase the gelatine in proportion. A hcilf-box of gelatine should make a quart of jelly. Have the shelled shrimps, either fresh or canned. If the latter, throw them into cold water for half an hour after taking from the can. Dreun, dry, and 2UTange in the aspic cis you would the oysters in the preceding recipe. Serve in the same fashion on lettuce emd with mayonnaise. CLAMS IN GREEN PEPPERS ♦ ♦ Select six medium-sized green peppers. They should be as nearly uniform in size as possible. Cut off the tops, remove the seeds, — do not touch them with your fingers, at the risk of burned skin, — and lay in boiling water for five minutes. Take them out and throw them into cold water. Cook together a tablespoonful of butter and one SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS of flour in a saucepan and ix>ur on this one-half pint of half milk and half cream. Stir this until it thickens and add to it a cupful of chopped dams and the mashed yolks of two hard boiled eggs. Cook three minutes, season to taste with salt and paprika, squeeze in a few drops of lemon juice, and with the mixture fill the peppers. Stand them upright, side by side, in a baking dish, sprinkle crumbs over the top and dot with bits of butter, pour a little of the clam juice and water or a half-cupful of weak stock about them to prevent their scorching, cook fifteen minutes covered, uncover and brown. This dish may be made ready in advance and then set in the oven for the final baking. EGGS AND OYSTERS ♦ ♦ Beat dx eggs light without separating the yolks. In another dish cut into, small pieces a dozen large oysters. Put into the blazer of a chafing-dish two tablespoonfuls of butter and a teaspoonful of anchovy paste, and stir until melted and blended. Put in the beaten eggs, and as soon as they begm to thicken add the oysters. Cook until the eggs are firm, and serve on plain buttered toast or buttered toast spread vtrith anchovy paste. Paprika may be added before SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS serving, but the anchovy will, of course, give suffi- cient salt. ENGUSH CHICKEN PIE ♦ 1» Select a young tender chicken for this and joint it, making two pieces of each leg and wing, dividing the sidebones from the back, and making three or four pieces of the breast, if the chicken is a fair size. Cut a half-pound of corned pork into neat strips, and arreuige this and the chicken in a deep pudding-dish. Moisten a cupful of fine bread crumbs to a paste with melted butter and the yolk of a raw egg, seasoning with salt, pepper, grated lemon peel, and chopped parsley. Make this force meat into baUs about the size of a walnut and drop them into the spaces between the pieces of chicken. Over all pour half a cupful of cold water. Cover with a good paste, leaving a cut in the middle of this at the top. While it is baking, covered, m a steady oven, — it will take an hour and a half to cook it properly, — make a stock of the neck, giblets, and feet, — the latter must be scalded and skinned, — well seasoned vnth a slice of onion and a bunch of soup herbs. When the stock is ready, strain it and turn it on a tablespoonful of soaked gelatine. There should be i>-i>n«K^»|Snij:»3«i«w w^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS about two cupfuls of the stock. Pour this into the pie with a funnel inserted in the hole left in the centre of the dome of pastry ctnd set aside to cool. When cold the liquid will have formed a solid jelly. The pie must be served cold, of course, and be cut on the table. CHICKEN TIMBALES ♦ ¥ Chop fine in a meat chopper the white meat of a full grown fowl. The meat should be reduced almost to a powder. Put it through a sieve and to two cups of it add a hcilf-pint of cream and the whites of two eggs, beaten stiff. Seeison with pepper and salt. Whip all together for several minutes that the mixture may be well mixed and very light. Have ready boiled maccuroni or spaghetti, and with this line buttered timbale moulds, first seasoning it well. The moulds lined, fill the inside with the chicken mixture and set in a pan of hot water in the oven. Cover and steam for half an hour. Turn out on a hot dish and pour over the timbales a cream or a mushroom sauce. These should be cooked in advance and set m a pan of boiling water in the oven for ten or fifteen minutes before they are wanted Sunday night. The sauce may be made on the stove or in the chafing-dish at the table. d ^ ----==r-__J ffa m a^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS CALF'S HEAD A LA VINAIGRETTE * • Arrange on a flat dish the boiled meat of the calPs head cut into neat strips and pour over it a vinaigrette sauce, made as follows: Mix a teaspoonful of salt, a quartei-teaspoonful of paprika, and a dash of white pepper with six tablespoonfuls of salad oil, two table- spoonfuls of white wine vinegar and one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stir all until well blended and then add a tablespoonful each of mixed cucumber pickles and green pepper (if you cannot get the latter use haii as much chopped pickle), a teaspoonful each of capers, minced chives, and parsley. Serve cold. I add this last direction beiiring in mind a green cook of my own who once served mint sauce boiling hot! CHICKEN AND GREEN PEA SALAD * * Cut cold Toast or boiled chicken into neat pieces as for ordinary chicken salad, aad to every cupful of this allow a half-cupful of cooked green pease, either the fresh or the canned. If the latter, they should be cooked first for ten minutes in boiling water and then drained very dry. Serve on lettuce with a good mayonnaise and season well. 109 fe& > ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS STUFFED CUCUMBERS » ♦ Select medium-sized cucumbers. Peel them, cut them in half lengthwise, scrape out the seeds and lay in cold water for half an hour. Prepare a stuffing of a cupful of chopped cold meat, — veal or chicken or ham. A good mixture is two-thirds veal or chicken and one-third boiled ham. Mince rather fine. Brown a half-cupful of crumbs lightly in butter and mix with the meat Season with salt and pepper and a dash of lemon juice. Soften vnth a gill of cream, or as much milk and a tablespoonful of butter. Fill the boat-shaped cucumber halves with this stuffing, lay them side by side in a baking-pan, and pour around them a cupful of weak stock. Bake covered twenty minutes, uncover, strew the cucumbers with crumbs and a little butter and brown lightly. They are very delicious either as a side-dish or as the main feature of the supper. FRIED GREEN PEPPERS ♦ ♦ Cut green peppers into strips lengthwise, removing the stem and the seeds, and fry until soft in butter. These may be done in the cheifing-dish and make a savory accompaniment to cold meat or etre good served with bacon or broiled ham or with broiled oysters. "V "° ^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS FRIED GREEN TOMATOES ♦ ¥ These should be sliced across, in rather thick pieces, and may be cooked in the same way as the green peppers and served in like fashion. Many per- sons know the good of fried ripe tomatoes without suspecting how delicious are those cooked while they are still green. Such a dish as this is especially good in the fall of the yeax when green tomatoes are plentiful in our markets. A SUNDAY DINNER LEFT OVER ♦ * The cold beef left over from the Sunday dinner ctnd served sliced at the Sunday night supper com- mends itself to few, except in hot weather, when it may be served with a salad. A hot and savory dish may be made of it with little extra care, if sufficient mashed potato has been provided to make sure that there shall be a cupful of this saved from the midday meaL Chop the meat coarsely and put it into a baking- dish, pouring over it the gravy. Take care that this is seasoned well, adding, if necessary, a little onion juice, a dash of Worcestershire sauce, and one of kitchen bouquet. Soften the mashed potato with milk if it is inclined to be stiff, stir into it a beaten r SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS egg and spread it over the minced beef. Put in the oven covered for tv\renty minutes, uncover long enough to brovni lightly before sending to table. If preferred, the meat and potato pate may be cooked in individual dishes. SALLY LUNN ♦ * Beat two eggs light, without sepeurating the whites iuid yolks and stir into them three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a half cupful .of warm milk and a quarter teaspoonful of baking soda, dissolving this first in a little boiling water. Into this beat two cupfuls of flour with which have been sifted a half teaspoonful each of salt and sugar. Last of all dissolve a half yeast cake in half a cup of warm water and stir into the batter. Beat hard until you have a smooth batter and turn into a round greased mould to rise. If this is set at noon and put in a tolerably warm place it will have risen sufficiently to bake in time for supper. Bake for half an hour or until a straw comes clean from it. This is a delicious hot bread. RICE BREAD ♦ * Beat hot water into two cupfuls of cold boiled rice until it is the consistency of a rather thick batter. To S^ "2 /g SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS this add three eggs, whipped light, a tablespoonful of butter, a cup of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and just enough milk to make a batter that will pour. Bake in a buttered pan. When done, cut into squares, split, butter and serve hot. WAFER MUFFINS ♦ * Beat two eggs light, put with them two table- spoonfuls melted butter, a cup of creeim or rich milk, one scJtsfioonful of salt, a teaspoonful of baking powder and flour enough to make a very soft dough. Form this with the hands into bcJls the size of the yolk of a hard boiled egg and then roll each into a cake about as large as a tea-plate. They should not be much thicker than paper. Bake on a hot pan in a quick oven, taking care that they do not scorch. Eat with butter. DEVILLED BREAD ♦ ♦ Cut stale bread, — baker's bread fs preferable, — into neat slices, and trim o£f the crust. Spread the bread lightly with butter, sprinkle with grated cheese, a dust of paprika and a little salt, and put into a bak- ing pan. Set in a quick oven long enough to melt the cheese a little and to crisp the bread. w SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS It is often slight trouble to mix one of these hot breads or some other of similar nature, and its presence makes the supper a feast, even if the other items of the menu are simple. With Sally Lunn, cold meat, a salad, and a simple sweet one has a supper which etny one with an appetite amd a reason- able digestion might be glad to share. A FEW SWEETS PINEAPPLE BAVARIAN CREAM ♦ » Soak half a box of gelatine for half an hour in cold water enough to cover it. During this time let two cupfuls of the shredded pineapple simmer over the fire with a cupful of sugar. Take from the stove, add the gelatine and stir until this is dis- solved. Put aside until the jelly is cool and begins to show signs of forming around the edge. Set in a pan of cracked ice and beat hard vnth an egg-beater until the jelly begins to stiffen, and then stir in lightly a pint of cream, whipped stiff. Turn into a mould, place on the ice, and leave there until it is weuited. For this dish either the fresh or the csumed pine- e^ple may be used. If the latter is pretty sweet, less sugar may be put with it in cooking. 114 \- ^mv d-1^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS 1 A SURPRISE CUSTARD * ¥ Make a good custard of a quart of milk, a cupful of sugar, and five eggs. Scald the milk in a double boiler, add the sugar and the beaten yolks of the eggs and three of the whites, and cook until the custeu'd thickens. Take from the lire and set ciside to cool. When ready to serve put a teaspoonful of fruit jelly or of jam into the bottom of each cup in which the custard is to be served and fill up with the custcurd. Make a meringue of the remaining whites of the eggs and a little sugar, heap this on the custard and dot with bits of bright jelly. Have these or any other custards served as nearly ice cold as possible. Light cakes should be peissed with them. MACAROON CUSTARD » ♦ Soak two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in half a cupful of water for half an hour. Make a light custard of a pint of milk, two eggs, the whites and the yolks both, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. When cooked take it from the fire and stir in the gelatine. As soon as this is dissolved and well mixed set the custard aside to harden, flavoring it with vanilla. When firm, take the custard from the dish by spoonfuls, roll each of them in powdered macaroons, and serve 115 Nrf* ivK'mrV imh SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS heaped on a dish. Macaroons to be thus used should be stale and dry enough to crumble well without the particles sticking together. COFFEE JUNKET * ♦ To a pmt and a half of milk add half a cupful of very strong black coffee. Sweeten to taste with granu- lated sugar and stir until this is thoroughly dissolved. Put in a tablespoonful of liquid rennet or a rennet tablet which has been dissolved in a tablespoonful of water. Let the dish stand in a room of moderate temperature until the junket is formed and then put at once on the ice or in a cold place. Serve with cream, either whipped or plain. TUTTI-FRUTTI JELLY ♦ * Make a good wine jelly by soaking a half-box of gelatine in half a cupful of cold water for em hour, emd pouring upon it two cupfuls of boiling water in which has been dissolved a cupful of sugar. Stir until the gelatine is thoroughly dissolved, add the juice of a lemon and a gill and a haii of sherry. Set aside to cool. When the jelly has begun to form, put a layer of it in the bottom of a mould and arrange upon it sliced preserved oi Ccuidied fruit. If the former, care S-g/^ c-/ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS should be taken to have it drained of every particle of liquor or juice. Any fruit may be used, — cherries, pineapple, apricots, and the like if the crystallized fruits are employed, preserved or canned peaches, pears, berries, etc., if the canned fruits are used. Fresh fruits may cJso serve in this way. I have eaten wine jelly with ripe strawberries embedded in it, and it was a pretty and delicious dish. The layer of fruit should be followed by one of jelly and so on until the mould is filled. Set on the ice until firm and serve very cold, with cream, plain or whipped. The jelly may abo be set to form in individual moulds and these served on a flat dish surrounded by whipped cream. MAPLE CREAM FILLING FOR CAKE » * Soak a tablespoonful of gelatine in a couple of table- spoonfuls of water. When soft, dissolve it over the fire in a very little boiling water. Whip a pint of cream stifl and beat into it the dissolved gelatine. Sweeten well with finely crushed maple sugar. This filling may be put between layers of plain cup cake or of any simple cake such as is used for a layer cake, and also may be spread over the top. Do the spreading before the gelatine has stiffened too much. 117 S#i vt r^ SUNDAY NIGHT SUPPERS NUT CAKES » «• Beat two eggs and stir into them a cupful of light brown sugar and two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour. Add to them one cup of nut meats, chopped fine. Spread the mixture in a very thin layer on a well- greased tin and bake ten minutes or until lightly browned, — not scorched or blackened. Cut into squares and take quickly from the tin. They will become crisp when exposed to the eur. THE END, 118 d i:#t INDEX f 'i .C-v^"; i' !; w ^ w Wi INDEX An "English Monkey" Anchovy Toast An Unusual Potato Salad Asparagus Omelet A Sunday Dinner Left Over A Surprise Custard A Word about Tomato Salads Bechamel Eggs : Beef Devilled . Smoked . Spiced With Tomato Sauce Cabbage and Cheese . Cake Custard . Calves' Head a la Vinaigrette Caviar Cemapes Caviare Toast . Chafing-Dish Creations . Cheese Sandwiches, Fried Chicken and Green Pea Salad Chicken, Galantine And Asparagus Tips ^ 121 Page 94 103 30 98 111 115 56 94 28 29 52 28 31 71 109 78 104 89 29 109 81 98 ^ w — KLi3 INDEX 1 Page Chicken in Jelly . 81 Mousse . 83 Pie, English 107 Timbales .... 108 Chocolate, Hot . 42 Clam Canapes 78 Clams, Devilled, Panned 64 In Green Peppers 105 Scalloped in -Shells 61 Coffee Junket ..... 116 Cold Meat in Aspic 54 Custaid, A Surprise .... 115 Cake . 71 Macaroon .... 115 Cucumbers, Stuffed .... 110 Cranberry Bavarian Cream 70 Creamed Tomatoes 27 Creamed Panned Oysters 62 DesserU A Surprise Custaid 115 Cake Custard 71 Coffee Junket .... 116 Cranberry Bavarian Cream 70 Fig and Nut Jelly . 85 Frozen Peaches with Ice Cream 84 Fruit Syllabub 68 Italian Chestnut Pudding . 68 Macaroon Custard 115 Marshmallows and Maraschino 86 Orange Jelly .... 69 Pineapple Bavarian Cream 114 Raspberry Tapioca 70 Stewed Figs with Cream . 85 "■x 122 Lj 1/ L._ 1 Vi 1— 1 w INDEX ^ Pa,; Desserts (continued) Stuffed Pineapple . . 67 Tutti-Frutti Jelly . . 116 Devilled Beef or Mutton . 28 Devilled Bread . 113 Devilled Panned Clams . 64 Duck or Chicken in Jelly . 81 Eggs, a la Newburg . 92 And Tomato Scallops . 65 Bechamel .... . 94 Hard Boiled with Cheese . . 94 Hard Boiled in Cream Sauce . 95 Danish .... . 92 With Mushrooms . . 93 And Oysters . 106 English Chicken Pie . . 107 Fig and Nut Jelly . 85 Fish Clam Canapes . 78 Clams m Green Peppers . . 105 Clams Scalloped in Shell . . 61 Devilled Paimed Clams . 64 Lobster Salad in Shell . 83 Shrimps in Tomato Aspic . . 104 Savory Lobster . 64 Fruit Syllabub .... . 68 Green Pease in Aspic . . 56 Hot Chocolate . 42 Italian Chestnut Pudding . 68 Jelly, Fig and Nut . 85 h 123 r^s { 4k \SSi L INDEX Jelly, Orange . Quick Aspic Tutti-Frutti L^ver Loaf Lobster Salad in Shell Macaroon Custard Maple Cream Filling (or Cake Marshmallows and Marachino Meat and Green Pepper Scallop Mushrooms euid Bacon . Mushrooms, Stewed Mushrooms with Eggs . Mutton, Devilled Nut Cakes Orange Jelly . Oysters, Creamed, Panned Jellied Omelet Omelet . And Eggs Omelets Asparagus Oyster Oyster Strawberry Panned Kidneys Peaches, Frozen with Ice Cream Peppers, Fried Green . Pillau of Rice and Peppers Pineapple Bavarian Creeun Quick Aspic Jelly 124 El-X^ ^ ^ ^^ INDEX Raspberry Tapioca Rice Bread Salads, Chicken cind Green Peeise Lobster in SheU Potato . Tomato . Sally Lunn Savory Lobster Mince of Cold Meats Rice and Tomato . Smoked Beef Shrimps in Tomato Aspic Spanish Eggs . Spiced Beef Stewed Figs with Cream Stewed Mushrooms Strawberry Omelet Stuffed Cucumbers Stuffed Pineapple Toast, Anchovy Caviare . Tomato and Egg Scallop Creamed . Fried Fried, Green In Aspic . Salad Sauce with Beef . With Rice With Whipped Cream Tongue Mousse ^. 125 P>se 70 112 109 83 30 56 112 64 29 66 29 104 92 52 85 96 99 110 67 103 104 66 27 27 111 55 56 28 66 84 82 4 m^ ^ Tutti-Frutti JeQy Unusual Savories and Sweets Veal 2uid Asparsigus Tips Loaf Wafer Muffins B I ^ 126 INDEX Page 116 61 98 79 113 xTwJ t|3t