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ALBERT R. MANN 
 LIBRARY 
 
 New York State Colleges 
 
 OF 
 
 Agriculture and Home Economics 
 
 AT 
 
 Cornell University 
 
The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003561176 
 

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The Book 
 For All Households 
 
 OR 
 
 THE ART OF PRESERVING 
 
 ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE 
 
 SUBSTANCES FOR MANY 
 
 YEARS 
 
 By 
 
 APPERT 
 
 Translated by 
 
 K. G. BITTING, M.S., 
 
 Bacteriologist, Glass Container Association 
 
 of America. 
 
 Chicago, 111. 
 August, 1920 
 
185259 
 
(3) 
 
 The art of Appertizing, or preserv- 
 ing food sterilized by heat in a hermet- 
 ically sealed container, was conceived a 
 little more than a hundred years ago as 
 a war measure to provision the French 
 forces upon the sea. It played a most 
 important part in provisioning the 
 armies in the recent war and in pro- 
 viding succor for the millions of starv- 
 ing civilians. But this role is far less 
 beneficent than is the furnishing of 
 good, wholesome, palatable, nutritious 
 food at all times and at any place under 
 peace conditions. 
 
 The food preserving industry has 
 grown with remarkable rapidity in this 
 country during the past two decades, 
 and this applies to the household as well 
 as to the factory or commercial product. 
 As a result, many persons are taking 
 
(4) 
 more than a cursory interest in the prep- 
 aration of their foods; and to some of 
 these a translation of the original work 
 by M. Appert may prove of interest. 
 
 The translation has been made to fol- 
 low the original very closely in order to 
 preserve the exact meaning intended and 
 not to modernize it according to present 
 usage. 
 
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(6) 
 
 NICOLAS APPERT. 
 
 Like many inventors and scientists, 
 Xieolas Appei-t did not reap the benefits 
 from the discoveries which he made on 
 methods of preserving foods, nor did he 
 receive adequate honors, though it was 
 reahzed by the government even during 
 his hfetime how far-reaching were his 
 discoveries. 
 
 M. Appert was born at Chalons-sur- 
 ]Marne in 1750, and experimented with 
 foods all the working years of his life, 
 as he conducted and superintended the 
 work in confectionaries, kitchens, distil- 
 leries, breweries, and store-houses for 
 food, besides being the provisioner to 
 the ducal house of Christian IV., a posi- 
 tion ^hich carried assurance that its 
 possessor was of large experience, of 
 executive ability, and of wide knowl- 
 edge. His experience gave him a thor- 
 ough and varied knowledge of the 
 preparation of foods, evidenced in his 
 methods for their preservation which 
 
(7) 
 show an insight into their structure 
 which is rarely held even by the food 
 manufacturer of today. 
 
 Not only does he rank as the origi- 
 nator of the preservation of foods 
 through sterilization by heat in closed 
 vessels, but as a man of generous char- 
 acter, sharing his discoveries with all 
 who wished to use them. He was a 
 man of wide vision, knowing full well 
 the importance to the whole world of 
 the success of his experiments. On the 
 other hand he was ^erj" particular to the 
 minutest detail, so that as a result, a 
 tyro, by following his directions, could 
 use his methods successfully. When it 
 is realized that he was obliged to make 
 all the apparatus and appliances which 
 he used, even to designing special bot- 
 tles, to the making of the corks, cutting 
 and gluing them by hand, the difficulties 
 which he had to meet and overcome seem 
 insurmountable. 
 
 The Society for the Encouragement 
 of National Industry drew attention 
 through their official bulletin to the im- 
 
(8) 
 portance of his work, according him 
 much honor. This organization had his 
 work verified under severe conditions by 
 the Bureau of Arts and Manufactures. 
 The foods were carried on voyages, 
 some of these being beyond the equator, 
 and on the boats they were stored under 
 unfavorable conditions. Their import- 
 ance in ehminating scurvy from sea- 
 faring men and in furnishing provisions 
 for the soldiers was realized by the 
 French government, and, upon the re- 
 quest of the JNIinister of the Interior, 
 the detailed description of his work was 
 published, for which he was awarded 
 12,000 francs as a "testimonial of the 
 good will of the government." His work 
 was published in 1810, though he had a 
 testimonial from the society in April, 
 1809. and he had been studying and ex- 
 perimenting for ten years previously 
 along these same lines. 
 
 Napoleon and his ministers were 
 greatly interested in the development of 
 the sugar beet industry at that time and 
 extended to it unlimited government 
 
(9) 
 aid, but evidentljr through preoccupa- 
 tion with that interest failed to fully 
 recognize the great service which Ap- 
 pert had rendered or to give the full 
 measure of encouragement to him which 
 was his due. 
 
 The award furnished him with funds 
 with which to establish his work on a 
 commercial basis, and in 1812 he found- 
 ed the House of Appert, and remained 
 at the head nearly to the time of his 
 death in 1841. He died a poor man, 
 having exhausted his means in continu- 
 ing his experiments and in trying to 
 bring them to a higher state of perfec- 
 tion. 
 
 He has had worthy successors in 
 members of his family; his immediate 
 successor, M. Raymond Chevallier- Ap- 
 pert, was knighted for the services which 
 he and his family rendered to humanity. 
 He it was who adapted the autoclave to 
 the use of processing foods at tempera- 
 tures above the boiling point and who 
 also devised a manometer for it so as 
 to regulate the pressure more closely, 
 
(10) 
 and was thus enabled to obtain tempera- 
 tures varying not more than a half of a 
 ,degree. Previously, temperatures 
 might vary twenty degrees. It was dur- 
 ing his ownership that the factory was 
 moved to the site that it now occupies, 
 and the name of the manufactory 
 changed to that of "House of Cheval- 
 lier-Appert." He was succeeded by 
 JNI. Alfred Chevallier-Appert, another 
 notable member of the family, who in- 
 stalled additional works, storehouses, 
 and offices for the various needs of the 
 work. He received the Cross of Chev- 
 alier of the Legion of Honor in 1896 for 
 services rendered the industry. He died 
 in 1909, after forty years' service, and 
 was succeeded by his son, Raymond 
 Chev.-illier-Appert, second, who did not- 
 able work during the war in carrying on 
 the family tradition for providing whole- 
 some, appetizing food for the soldiers. 
 He also received the Cross of the Legion 
 of Honor for his initiative and services. 
 Associated with Raymond Chevallier- 
 Appert are many devoted fellow-work- 
 
(11) 
 
 ers, many of whom have been decorated 
 with the medal of Honor, a recognition 
 made by the government for thirtj? 
 years' service with the same house. 
 
 In the preservation of food Nicolas 
 Appert, not only used a varied assort- 
 ment, as can be seen from the table of 
 contents, but also prepared them in an 
 appetizing way, not being satisfied to 
 merely preserve the basic material. He 
 also preserved them in forms that are 
 considered achievements in the art of 
 preserving today. In 1814, he requested 
 tests be made of his bouillon cubes. This 
 originality and initiative have been char- 
 acteristic of the Appert manufactory 
 from the start, and has been carried on 
 through more than the hundred years 
 of its existence. Among its products to- 
 day are found hors-d'oeuvres, soups, 
 meats au naturel and with various 
 dressings, pates, game and domestic 
 fowl, vegetables also prepared in the 
 form of various dishes or au naturel, 
 termed a Vanglaise, sauces, fish, eggs, 
 cheese, entremets, desserts, fruits, and 
 
(12-) 
 beverages, so that a catalogue of the 
 products looks like an extensive high 
 class menu, the preparation of which 
 requires not only great skill, but also 
 scientific knowledge of a high order. 
 
 While Appert's training was in the 
 school of experience, he was a true scien- 
 tist. He had the ability to develop facts 
 through carefully planned experiments 
 and to interpret the results in the rela- 
 tion of cause to effect. He set about 
 the task of studying food preservation 
 systematically. No "fortunate accident" 
 served to give him a starting point from 
 which he could proceed with ease. His 
 was the task of blazing a new path 
 through the unknown and this he accom- 
 plished by short steps, always going for- 
 ward and with confidence because that 
 which he had covered was well done. 
 His achievement of success was the re- 
 sult of clear thinking and almost limit- 
 less patience in attacking a difficult 
 problem, but which, due to his establish- 
 ing the correct fundamental principles, 
 seems so simple to us. He is deserving 
 
(13) 
 
 of special honor, for science at that 
 period offered him httle or no aid. Bac- 
 teriology, the special branch of science 
 upon which his work depends, was then 
 unknown, and chemistry afforded him 
 little assistance. In fact he had a far 
 better understanding of what he was 
 doing than did Gay-Lussac, then the 
 foremost chemist of the world, or Liebig 
 who followed later, both of whom un- 
 dertook to explain why his products 
 kept. 
 
 In many ways Appert deserves to 
 stand in the same relation to the food 
 preserving industry as does Pasteur to 
 the sciences of bacteriology and of medi- 
 cine. Through his efforts mankind has 
 been benefited by better foods, the sur- 
 plus product of one season may be safe- 
 ly carried over to the time of non-pro- 
 duction and the staples and delicacies of 
 any country may be exchanged for 
 those of any other. No single discovery 
 has contributed more to modern food 
 manufacture nor to the general welfare 
 of mankind. 
 
(14) 
 
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(16) 
 
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(IT) 
 
 EXPLANATION OF THE 
 PLATES 
 
 Perfect closing being of the greatest 
 importance to obtain preservation of all 
 alimentary substances, in order to attain 
 it, I make use of the apparatus figured 
 on the following plate, which, though 
 susceptible of improvement, has an- 
 swered mj^ purpose perfectly. Conse- 
 quently, I believe an explanation of it 
 should be given. 
 
 First Figure. Reel with two iron 
 wings used to double the wire which is 
 afterwards cut in the middle by the reel, 
 so as to have two lengths sufficient to 
 fasten the corks in the bottles. 
 
 Second. Small machine to twist to- 
 gether for a third of their length the 
 pieces of wire cut in two by the pre- 
 ceding machine. 
 
 Third. Iron vise used to compress 
 and to reduce the corks for three-quar- 
 ters of their length, starting at the 
 smaller end. 
 
(18) 
 
 Fourth. Straw-padded stool pro- 
 vided with a small wooden shelf upon 
 ^vhich the bottles are placed so as to 
 wire and to tie the corks more easily. 
 The same stool may serve to set near the 
 bottle-holder, when the closing is done. 
 
 Fifth. Block of wood, called bottle- 
 holder, hollowed on its upper surface to 
 form a shallow basin, in which the bot- 
 toms of the bottles are placed when they 
 are to be corked. This block is provided 
 with a strong wooden pallet, which is 
 used to force the entrance of the stop- 
 pers. . 
 
 Sixth. View of the front and side of 
 a pliers, with a hinge-pin, which is used 
 to twist the wire that holds the cork in 
 and at the same time to cut the excess 
 ends of wire. 
 
 As I shall indicate, I use the flat 
 pliers and the shears for this operation, 
 
The 
 
 Art of Preserving 
 
 ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE 
 
 SUBSTANCES FOR MANY 
 
 YEARS 
 
 "Work submitted to the Consulting Bureau of Arts 
 and Manufactures, invested with its approval, and 
 published upon the invitation of His Excellency, the 
 Minister of the Interior. 
 
 By APPERT, 
 
 Proprietor at Massy, Department of the Seine and Oise, 
 former confectioner and distiller, elevated to be provlsioner 
 to the ducal house of Christian IV. 
 
 "I have thought that your discovery 
 merited a particular testimonial of the 
 good will of the Government." 
 
 Letter from His Excellency, the 
 Minister of the Interior. 
 
 At the house of Patris & Co., Printers-Booksellers. 
 Quay Napoleon, at the corner of the Street of the 
 Dove, No. 4. 
 
 1810 
 
The author has complied with all that 
 the law requires in order to guarantee 
 his ownership ; in consequence he serves 
 notice that he wiU prosecute counter- 
 feiters and dealers in counterfeit copies ; 
 and that an}?^ copy that does not hear 
 his signature will be considered coxm- 
 terfeit. 
 
 Appert. (Signed). 
 
CAUTION 
 
 By the Publisher 
 
 In order to avoid the imitations which 
 might occur in the manufacture of pre- 
 served substances, advertised as from 
 the manufactory at Massy, we have just 
 made arrangements with M. Appert 
 which we take the liberty of announc- 
 ing to the public, that there will be 
 found in our stores. Napoleon Quay, at 
 the corner of the Street of the Dove, 
 number 4, in the city, Paris, an assort- 
 ment of preserved foods from the manu- 
 factory at Massy, at moderate prices 
 and which may be determined from a 
 list that we shall publish from time to 
 time in the newspapers. 
 
 N. B. As these articles cannot be pre- 
 pared in quantity, Messrs., the chefs for 
 
(vi) 
 the admirals of the fleet and the staff, 
 who desire to provision for long voy- 
 ages are requested to make their orders 
 in advance. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The art of preserving for many years 
 animal and vegetable substances in aU 
 their freshness and with aU their natural 
 properties is not one of the doubtful dis- 
 coveries set forth merely for interest and 
 covetousness. 
 
 My method, exempt from aU the ob- 
 jections with which aU those used until 
 now might justly be reproached, has 
 received the sanction of a long experi- 
 ence ; it is strengthened by the testimony 
 of men skilled in the art and by the 
 approbation of mmierous consvmiers. 
 
 The principle of which I make use 
 is unique; it operates in the same way 
 and produces the same effects upon all 
 foods without exception. 
 
 An illustrious minister, an ardent 
 friend of the arts and of humanity, after 
 having had my process verified by a spe- 
 cial commission, has been pleased to 
 accord encouragement to it which re- 
 
(viii) 
 doubled my zeal; but the most flattering 
 reward that could be accorded to me 
 is the invitation to render public, by way 
 of print, the knowledge of my process, 
 my discovery which may be of great use- 
 fulness in sea voyages, in hospitals, and 
 in domestic economy. 
 
 N. B. I shall receive with gratitude the ob- 
 servations that may be made upon my proc- 
 esses, and I shall hasten to give all the informa- 
 tion that might be further desired after the 
 reading of this work; I only request perfect 
 frankness from those who address letters to me. 
 
THE MINISTER OF THE 
 INTERIOR 
 
 Court of the Empire, 
 
 to 
 
 M. Appert, 
 
 Proprietor at Massy, near Paris. 
 
 Pabis, January 30, 1810. 
 
 Second Division 
 
 Bureau of Arts and Manufactures. 
 
 The Consulting Bureau of Arts and 
 Manufactures, has rendered an account 
 to me. Sir, of the examination that it 
 has made of your processes for the 
 preservation of fruits, vegetables, meats, 
 broths, milk, etc.; after this report one 
 cannot doubt the reality of these pro- 
 cesses. As the preservation of animal 
 and vegetable substances can be of the 
 greatest usefulness in sea voyages, in 
 
(x) 
 hospitals, and in domestic economy, I 
 have felt that your discovery merited a 
 special testimonial of the good-will of 
 the Government, I have, in consequence, 
 welcomed the proposition that has been 
 made to me by the consulting bureau 
 of according to you a reward of twelve 
 thousand francs. In making this deci- 
 sion, I have had in view, at first, of 
 awarding to you the recompense due to 
 those who are originators of useful proc- 
 esses; afterwards to indemnify you for 
 the expenses that you have been obliged 
 to make to establish your workrooms, to 
 devote yourself to the necessary experi- 
 ments to verify the results of your 
 methods. You shall immediately in- 
 form the chief of the division of ac- 
 counts of my department the day when 
 you desire to present yourself at the 
 public treasury to receive the i^twelve 
 thousand francs that I have accorded 
 to you. 
 
(xi) 
 It has appeared to me, Sir, that it is 
 important to spread the knowledge of 
 your processes for the preservation of 
 animal and vegetable substances. I de- 
 sire, therefore, conformably to the pro- 
 posal that you have made, that you 
 write an exact and detailed description 
 of these processes, that you deliver this 
 description to the Consulting Bureau of 
 Arts and Manufactures to be printed at 
 yoiu- expense. After that it will be ex- 
 amined and reviewed. You are then to 
 send two hundred copies to me. The 
 dehvery of these copies being the only 
 condition that I place on the payment 
 of the twelve thousand francs that you 
 have been granted. I doubt not but 
 that you will comply with this readily, 
 I desire. Sir, that you acknowledge the 
 receipt of my letter. 
 
 Accept the assurance of my distin- 
 guished sentiments. 
 
 (Signed) Montalivet. 
 
(xii) 
 Consulting Bureau of Arts and 
 
 Manufactures. 
 
 "The undersigned, members' of the 
 Consulting Bureau of Arts and Manu- 
 factures, next to the minister of the in- 
 terior, charged by His Excellency to 
 examine the description of the processes 
 which are employed by M. Appert, for 
 the preservation of foods, have recog- 
 nized that the details which it includes 
 on the manner of working and upon the 
 results that are obtained, are accurate 
 and conform to the various experiments 
 that have been made on them before by 
 M. Appert, by the order of His Excel- 
 lency." 
 
 Paris, this 19th day of April, 1810. 
 Bardel, Gay-Lussac, Scipion- 
 Perier, Molard. 
 
 Copy of a letter to General Caffar- 
 elli. Naval Prefect at Brest, by the Bu- 
 
(xiii) 
 reau of Health, under the date of the 
 month of Brumaire, year 12. 
 
 "The foods prepared according to the 
 process of Citizen Appert and sent to 
 this port by the Minister of Marine, 
 after a sojourn of three months upon 
 the roadstead, presented the following 
 condition : 
 
 The broth in bottles was good, the 
 bi'oth with boiled beef in a special ves- 
 sel, good also, but weak ; the boiled beef 
 itself very edible. 
 
 The beans and small peas, prepared 
 both with and without meat, have all 
 the freshness and the agreeable flavor of 
 freshly picked vegetables." 
 
 Signed Dubreuil, BiUard, Duret, 
 Pichon, and Thaumer. 
 
 A true copy. 
 
 The Secretary of the Council, 
 
 J. Miriel. 
 
SOCIETY 
 FOR ENCOURAGEMENT 
 
 of National Industry 
 
 Pabis, April 7, 1809. 
 
 The Secretary of the Society for En- 
 couragement of National Indtistry, 
 
 To M. Appertj Proprietor at Massy. 
 
 Sir: I 
 
 / have the pleasure of transTmtting to 
 you a copy of the report made to the 
 Society for Encouragement by Messrs. 
 Guyton - Morveau^ Parmentier^ and 
 Bouriat, upon your preserves of animal 
 and vegetable substances. Nothing can 
 be added to the judgment that the com- 
 mission has made upon your discovery; 
 
(XV) 
 
 it announces, however, that it has not 
 made experiments sufficiently rigorous 
 nor continued for a sufficiently long 
 time, to establish undeniably just at 
 what point the substances that you pre- 
 pare are susceptible of being preserved; 
 but that which has been observed, has 
 sufficed for it to form a conclusion 
 already favorably disposed through the 
 numerous and decisive testimonials 
 which attest your success. 
 
 The Society for Encouragement be- 
 lieves it is of service to the country and 
 to humanity in publishing' with the 
 commendations which it merits, a dis- 
 covery so generally useful. Its desires 
 are accomplished, if its approbation, in 
 leading the consumers to make use of 
 your products, shall contribute to your 
 obtaining just recompense for your 
 work. 
 
 Accept, Sir, the assurance of the per- 
 fect consideration with which I have the 
 honor to salute you. 
 
 Math. Montmorency, Sec. Adj. 
 
THE ART OF 
 
 PRESERVING ANIMAL AND 
 
 VEGETABLE SUBSTANCES 
 
 AH the imaginable means heretofore 
 used for preserving foods or medicines 
 are reduced to two principal methods; 
 one in which desiccation is employed, 
 the other in which more or less of a 
 characteristic foreign substance is added 
 to prevent fermentation and putrefac- 
 tion. It is in following the first of these 
 methods that dried fruits and vege- 
 tables, smoked meats, and salted fish are 
 obtained. By the second are obtained 
 fruits and different parts of vegetables 
 preserved in sugar; juices and decoc- 
 tions of plants reduced to syrups or in 
 extracts; vegetables, fruits, and buds 
 preserved in vinegar; meats, herbs, and 
 vegetables salted; but all those means 
 
 (1) 
 
(2) _ 
 carry more or less objection. Drying 
 destroys the aroma, changes the flavor 
 of the juices, shrivels the fibrous tissue 
 or parenchyma. Whatever may be the 
 savor, even in those which are very sapid, 
 the sugar masks and destroys in part 
 other savors, the presence of which it is 
 desired to preserve, such as the agreeable 
 acidity of many fruits. A second ob- 
 jection is that a great deal of sugar is 
 required in order to preserve a small 
 quantity of any other vegetable matter, 
 and upon this account it is not only very 
 costly but also detrimental in some 
 cases. It is in the same manner that 
 juices of plants cannot be reduced to 
 the form of syrups or extracts without 
 at least nearly double the quantity of 
 sugar; this results in the syrups or ex- 
 tracts containing much more of the 
 sugar than of the medicament, and 
 oftimes the sugar darkens to the detri- 
 ment and the action of the medicine. 
 
 The salt carries into the substance 
 a disagreeable harshness, hardens the 
 animal fibre there, and renders it in- 
 
(8) 
 digestible (1) ; it contracts vegetable 
 parenchyma. On the other hand, as 
 it is, necessary to remove the piajor 
 part of the salt used by means of 
 water, nearly all the soluble priaciples 
 in the cold water are lost when soaking 
 is done; there remains only the fibrous 
 or parenchymatous matter, which, as has 
 been said, is also altered. 
 
 (1) "The salted meats, upon which the ships' 
 crews are fed, appear to be the principal 
 cause of scurvy; it seems that the same reasons 
 which cause salts to prevent the fermentation 
 of meats, render them difficult of digestion. 
 Though a small quantity of salt may be able to 
 check putrefaction, the too abundant and too 
 continued use made of it, may produce de- 
 rangement in the fine ducts, and these derange- 
 ments cannot fail to over-work the stomach 
 of persons who have to digest dried vegetables 
 and the biscuits which aged sailors cannot 
 masticate thoroughly. Poor digestion and ob- 
 struction of the small vessels may occasion 
 ulcers of the mouth, and the spots which denote 
 Bcurvy, etc." 
 
 (Sante des Marins, par Duhamel, page 64.) 
 
(4) 
 
 The vinegar can only serve as seas- 
 oning for many substances. 
 
 I shall not enter into detail upon all 
 that has been said and published on 
 the art of preserving foods; these 
 works are known. I shall only observe 
 that not to my knowledge, has any 
 author, ancient or modern, indicated, 
 nor even surmised, the principle that 
 forms the basis of the method which I 
 offer. 
 
 It is well known that for some time 
 at Paris and in the provinces, public at- 
 tention was directed towards means of 
 diminishing the consumption of sugar 
 and in making up the deficiency by va- 
 rious extracts of native substances. The 
 Government whose philanthropic over- 
 sight is extended to all useful subjects, 
 is unremitting in inviting those who are 
 concerned in the arts and sciences to 
 determine means of most advantageous- 
 ly turning to account the productions 
 from our soil, and giving the greatest 
 
(5) 
 development to agriculture and to our 
 manufactures so as to lessen the con- 
 sumption of foreign merchandise. In 
 order to contribute to the same end the 
 Society for Encouragement of National 
 Industry inspired by flattering rewards 
 those whose talents and efforts were di- 
 rected toward discoveries, from which 
 the nation and humanity might draw 
 real advantages. Animated by as laud- 
 able a zeal, the Society of Agriculture 
 through its resolution of the 21st of 
 June, 1809, and its circular of the fol- 
 lowing 15th of July, made a general 
 appeal so as to obtain directions and 
 information that might serve in the 
 composition of a work upon the art of 
 preserving all alimentary substances by 
 the best possible means. 
 
 It is following these invitations so de- 
 serving of respect, that I decided to 
 publish a method, easy to put in prac- 
 tise, and particularly at little cost in its 
 execution, a method, which by the ex- 
 tension to which it is susceptible, may 
 
(6) 
 present numerous advantages to the 
 society. 
 
 This method is not an empty theory; 
 it is the fruit of my vigUs, of my medi- 
 tation, of research, and of numerous ex- 
 periments, the results of which after 
 more than ten years, have produced 
 such wonder that, notwithstanding the 
 evidence acquired from the repeated use 
 of preserved edibles, for two, three, and 
 six years, many persons still do not be- 
 lieve in it. 
 
 Reared in the art of preparing and 
 preserving by these processes, I knew 
 alimentary products ; having lived, as it 
 were, in pantries, in breweries, in store- 
 rooms, and in the cellars of Champagne, 
 as well as in the factories of the confec- 
 tioners and distillers, and in the store- 
 houses of the grocers ; accustomed to su- 
 perintend and to conduct establishments 
 of this kind during forty-five years, I 
 have been able to give a faithful accoimt 
 of my work, aided by mmierous advan- 
 tages which could not be procured by the 
 
(r) 
 
 majority of those who are occupied with 
 the art of preserving foods. 
 
 I owe to my experiments and above 
 all to aa^ great perseverance, to being 
 convinced, 1st, that the subject of heat 
 has the essential quality in itself not 
 only of changing the combination of the 
 constituent parts of animal and vege- 
 table products, but also that, if not de- 
 stroying, at least of arresting for many 
 years the natural tendency of these 
 same products to decomposition; 2nd, 
 that its application in a proper manner 
 to all these products, after having de- 
 prived them in the most rigorous man- 
 ner possible of contact with the air, ef- 
 fects perfect preservation of these same 
 products with aU their natural qualities. 
 
 Before entering into the details of the 
 execution of my process, I ought to say 
 that it consists principally: 
 
 1st. To enclose in the bottle or jar 
 the substances that one wishes to pre- 
 serve: 
 
(8) 
 2d. To cork these different vessels 
 with the greatest care because success 
 depends chiefly on the closing; 
 
 3d. To submit these substances thus 
 enclosed to the action of boiling water 
 in a water-bath for more or less time ac- 
 cording to their nature and in the man- 
 ner that I shall indicate for each kind 
 of food; 
 
 4th, To remove the bottles from the 
 water-bath at the time prescribed. 
 
(9) 
 
 Description of the manufactories that I 
 have established for the execution of 
 my process on a large scale (1) 
 
 My laboratory consists of four com- 
 partments or workshops. The first fur- 
 nished with a battery of kitchen utensils, 
 of stoves, and of the necessary apparatus 
 for preparing all the animal substances 
 intended to be preserved, such as a mar- 
 mite for consommes, of thirty weltes (*) 
 capacity, mounted in masonry. This 
 rnarmite is furnished with a double 
 boiler pierced with small openings like 
 a colander, having compartments in- 
 tended to admit meats and fowl, which 
 
 (1) One understands that for special use 
 in the home and for small operations, it is 
 unnecessary to establish workrooms; the ves- 
 sels and other utensils which are found wher- 
 ever economical housekeepers occupy them- 
 selves with their winter provisions, suffice for 
 working according to my method. 
 
 (*) Welte — velt? Mauritian liquid measure, 
 2 gallons or 7.57 liters. 
 
(10) 
 are introduced in the first, and this with- 
 drawn at will with all the meats. 
 
 The first is equipped with a strong 
 valve to which is applied in the interior 
 of the marmite a small baU, like that of 
 a watering pot, covered with a piece of 
 bolting cloth. By this means the bouil- 
 lon or consomme is obtained clear and 
 all ready to put in bottles. 
 
 The second piece is intended for pre- 
 paring milk, cream, and whey. 
 
 The third for corking, wiring, and 
 placing in sacking the bottles and other 
 vessels. 
 
 The fourth is furnished with three 
 large copper kettles moxmted in ma- 
 sonry on the furnaces. Each of these 
 kettles is furnished with a strong cover 
 just large enough to enter the inside 
 and rest upon the vessels. Each boUer 
 is equipped with a strong valve at the 
 bottom to let out the water at proper 
 times ; these vessels generally receive all 
 the objects that are intended to be pre- 
 
(11) 
 
 served, so as to apply to them in a suit- 
 able manner the action of the heat of 
 the water-bath. ( 1 . ) 
 
 (1) However in extensive operations, it is 
 necessary to have the large boilers equipped 
 with strong valves as otherwise they would be 
 too long in cooling with such a volume of water, 
 and resting during the time on a hot furnace; 
 on the other hand the heat applied for too long 
 a time might greatly injure the substances. In 
 small operations and in homes the first kettle 
 or earthenware vessel would serve, therefore, 
 without inconvenience, provided that the bot- 
 tles be immersed just to the cord line or ring; 
 one could even in default of so tall a vessel, lay 
 them in the water-bath taking the precaution to 
 pack them well there so as to avoid breaking. 
 Many operations handled in this way have suc- 
 ceeded very well with me. The corks work out 
 > little farther, but if the bottles be well 
 corked, there is nothing to fear. For example, 
 it is not advisable to use vessels closed 
 with corks made of several pieces, because 
 these corks are strained more by the action of 
 the heat, and however well closed the vessel 
 may be, it would be imprudent to use them. 
 
(12) 
 The utensils which furnish the third 
 piece for the preparatory processes con- 
 sist: 
 
 1. Of pieces of boards to set between 
 the bottles. 
 
 2. Of a reel for the wire intended to 
 bind the bottles and other vessels. (Fig. 
 
 1-) 
 
 3. Of shears and pliers for wiring. 
 
 (Fig. 6.) 
 
 4. Of a small lathe for twisting the 
 wire when it is cut into lengths. (Fig. 2) . 
 
 5. Of a vise for squeezing the corks. 
 
 (Fig. 3.) 
 
 6. Of a bottle - holder or block 
 mounted on three legs, furnished with a 
 strong pallet for corking. (Fig. 5.) 
 
 The small water-baths are so much more con- 
 venient since they can be placed anywhere, and 
 charged at will; they cool promptly and when 
 one can hold his hand within, the bottles are 
 withdrawn, and the operation is therefore ter- 
 minated. 
 
(13) 
 
 7. Of a stool mounted on five legs 
 for wiring. (Fig. 4.) 
 
 8. Of a suflBcient quantity of sack- 
 ing to envelop the bottles and other ves- 
 sels. 
 
 9. Of two leather-covered stools, 
 stuffed with hay, upon which to rest the 
 bottles when it is necessary to press down 
 the contents. 
 
 10. Of a press for the juices of 
 plants, fruits, herbs, and the must of 
 grapes, with the earthenware, vessels, 
 sieve, and all the other necessary things. 
 
 In addition to this laboratory, 
 equipped in this manner, I have estab- 
 lished three workshops; the first, for 
 preparing the vegetables, which is fur- 
 nished with tables round the outer walls. 
 
 The second for receiving and prepar- 
 ing the fruit, received from the green- 
 grocer. 
 
 The third is a cellar furnished with 
 board staging, used for rinsing and 
 compactly arranging the bottles and 
 other vessels in storage. 
 
(14) 
 I take the precaution to rinse in ad- 
 vance the bottles and vessels which I ex- 
 pect to need. I procure an assortment 
 of corks, which I squeeze, also wire 
 which I lay out; when all are thus pre- 
 pared, the operations are half done. 
 
 The principle of preservation of all 
 foods is invariable in its effect; the re- 
 sults depend entirely on its application 
 in a suitable measure to each of them 
 according to their nature, and with the 
 exclusion of air. This last precaution is 
 of the greatest importance in order to 
 attaiQ perfect preservation. A sure 
 means of depriving the foods from con- 
 tact with air, is to have a perfect under- 
 standing of the bottles and vessels which 
 are used, of the corks, and of the method 
 of good closing. 
 
(15) 
 
 BOTTLES AND VESSELS 
 
 I have chosen glass as being the ma- 
 terial most impermeable to air. I have 
 not risked a trial with other materials. 
 The ordinary bottles generally have the 
 openings too small and are poorly made ; 
 they are too weak in other respects to 
 resist the blows of the pallet and the 
 action of the heat. Therefore I have 
 had bottles made expressly, having 
 larger openings and with contractions, 
 that is to say, with a ridge extending 
 into the interior of the opening below 
 the cord-line (or ring) . My object was 
 that the cork iatroduced with force upon 
 the bottle-holder, of which I have 
 spoken, with the assistance of the pal- 
 let, up to three-quarters of its length, 
 was constricted through the middle. In 
 this manner the bottle is found perfectly 
 closed to the exterior and equally so to 
 the interior. This opposes therefore an 
 obstacle to the expansion which is pro- 
 duced upon the substances enclosed in 
 the bottle, by the application of heat. 
 
(16) 
 
 This manner of closing is so much the 
 more indispensable, since I have ob- 
 served many times that the expansion 
 was so strong that it forced out the corks 
 two, three, and four lignes ( 1 ) , though 
 secured by two cross wires. The bottles 
 and jars should be of lightly tempered 
 material, the former twenty-five to 
 twenty-six ounces in weight for a liter 
 capacity, in which the glass be dis- 
 tributed equally ; otherwise they break in 
 the water-bath at the place where they 
 are charged heaviest with matter. The 
 form used for Champagne is the most 
 suitable, the best looking, permits better 
 arrangement, and is more resistive than 
 the others. 
 
 STOPPEKS. 
 
 It is in general poor economy, due to 
 misapprehension, that of paying only 
 twenty and even forty sols (2) for a 
 
 (1) Ligne — 0.08" 
 
 (2) Sol — 5 centimes (one cent American 
 money) 
 
(17) 
 hundred corks, though having the allure- 
 ment of two centimes that you believe 
 gained upon a cork, you often sacrifice 
 by this parsimony a bottle of 20, 30s, and 
 even of three pounds and over. The bot- 
 tles are corked so as to preserve and im- 
 prove the object enclosed, in depriving 
 it of contact with the air; one cannot 
 then give too much care to the good qual- 
 ity of the stoppers, which should be 18 
 to 20 lignes in length and of the finest 
 cork ; these are really the most economi- 
 cal. Experiment has proved this so 
 true, that as for myself I use only super- 
 fine corks for all work. I also take the 
 precaution of compressing each cork for 
 three-quarters of its length, by means 
 of the vise (Fig. 3), begimiing at the 
 smaller end ; in compressing in this man- 
 ner, the cork becomes more supple, the 
 pores are brought closer together, the 
 stopper is slightly elongated and re- 
 duced in size at the end that enters the 
 mouth of the bottle, so that a large stop- 
 per may enter into an average opening. 
 
(18) 
 The action of the heat in a vessel thus 
 closed is such that the enlarged stopper 
 in the interior of the vessel makes a per- 
 fect closure. 
 
 CLOSXmE. 
 
 After what has been said, the absolute 
 necessity of having good bottles is un- 
 derstood, the material of which should 
 be distributed uniformly and with a 
 small thread extending into the interior 
 of the opening. It is also necessary to 
 have superfine stoppers, pressed for 
 three-quarters of their length by the 
 vise. Before putting in the corks, I am 
 careful that the bottles containing liquid 
 are filled only to three inches of the cord- 
 line (or ring) , so as to avoid the break- 
 age that would necessarily follow from 
 the expansion produced by the applica- 
 tion of the heat in the water-bath if the 
 bottles were too fidl; as for vegetables, 
 fruits, plants, etc., two inches from the 
 ring or cordline suffice. I place the full 
 bottle upon the bottle-holder, already 
 cited, before which I am seated. This 
 
(19) 
 apparatus should be provided with a 
 strong wooden pallet with a small jug 
 full of water, and a well sharpened 
 knife, greased With a; little tallow or 
 soap so as to cut the heads of corks, 
 which ought rarely to be found extend- 
 ing beyond the exterior of the bottle. 
 The objects arranged, I draw the bottle- 
 holder between my legs, and introduce 
 into the bottle a suitable stopper after 
 having wet half of it in the vessel of 
 water, so that it may enter more easily, 
 and after having wiped the end, I press 
 it in this position with my left hand 
 which I hold steady so that the bottle 
 may be perpendicular. I take the pallet 
 with my right hand so as to push the 
 cork in wiith force. When I feel after 
 the first or second blow that the cork 
 has entered a little, I stop so as to take 
 the neck of the bottle in that hand, which 
 I hold firm and perpendicular upon the 
 bottle holder, and with repeated blows 
 of the pallet I continue forcing the 
 stopper in to three-fourths of its length. 
 The quarter of the stopper which 
 
(20) 
 should always extend beyond the bottle 
 after having resisted the repeated blows 
 of the pallet assvires me on the one hand 
 that the bottle is closed perfectly, and 
 on the other hand this excess is necessary 
 for the cork to support the two crossed 
 wires or two strings, so as to hold it 
 against the compression which it ex- 
 periences in the water-bath. One cannot 
 be too careful in attaining a good clos- 
 ure ; no small details should be neglected 
 in order that the substance which is to 
 be preserved should be rigorously ex- 
 cluded from contact with the air since it 
 is the destructive agent most to be 
 feared. (1.) 
 
 ( 1 ) Many persons believe that they have made 
 a good closing when the cork is forced level 
 with the mouth of the bottle, but it is quite the 
 contrary; the general rule, when the cork does 
 not resist the repeated blows of a strong pallet, 
 and is pushed entirely into the bottle, is that 
 it is always prudent to withdraw it and substi- 
 tute another more suitable. Thus to believe 
 that a bottle closed so low is properly closed. 
 
(21) 
 The bottles thus properly closed, I 
 further secure the stoppers by two 
 
 though it does not come out on reversing it, is 
 a mistake which, joined to the poor quality of 
 the corks that are used, cause much loss. He 
 who corks with care is assured of good closure 
 by the resistance of the stopper to the blows of 
 the pallet, and reversing the bottle is never to 
 be considered. On the other hand it is not only 
 necessary to give consideration to the openings 
 that are found in the cork but to all the hidden 
 defects that may exist in the interior of 
 even the finest, defects through which the 
 air may be introduced, so that it is felt to be 
 an indispensable necessity to use only the best 
 corks possible, after having squeezed them 
 properly in the vise, and to make the closing 
 suflSciently strong so that the corks may be tied 
 through the middle, in order to avoid infinite 
 losses that have no other cause than that of poor 
 closing ; for if a bottle that has been closed with 
 lack of care does not leak at the moment, it is 
 because the air has not had time to penetrate 
 through the defects that may exist; but like- 
 wise, in practise, how much variety in the qual- 
 ity of a wine drawn from the same puncheon! 
 how much in the bottles from more or less of 
 the lees! etc. 
 
(22) 
 crossed wires (this is very easy, it suf- 
 fices to have seen it once) . Afterwards 
 I put each bottle in a sackcloth or coarse 
 canvas, made expressly, and large 
 enough to envelop the whole up to the 
 stopper. These sacks are made like a 
 muff , opening equally through the two 
 ends, one of which is gathered with a 
 running string, leaving an opening only 
 the size of a five franc piece. The other 
 end is provided with two strings so as 
 to hold the sack round the neck of the 
 bottle. By means of these sacks, I can 
 dispense with hay or straw in packing 
 the bottles in the water-bath, and when 
 one is broken in the operation, which 
 happens sometimes, the fragments of 
 the broken bottles remain in the sacking. 
 I thus avoid an infinity of embarrass- 
 ments and small accidents that are ex- 
 perienced in gathering the splinters of 
 bottles scattered in the hay or straw, 
 with which I had to contend in former 
 times. 
 
 After having spoken of the bottles, 
 their form and quality, of the stoppers. 
 
(23) 
 the length and the fine cork from which 
 they should be made, of the manner of 
 proper closing, as well as that of tying, 
 of the sacking, its form and use, I shall 
 give an idea of the vessels with large 
 openings, that is to say, of the jars of 
 glass which have openings of 2, 3, and 4 
 inches and more in diameter, and of more 
 or less capacity, that I use for preserv- 
 ing large objects, such as meats, fowl, 
 game, fish, eggs, etc. These jars are, 
 like the bottles, provided with a cord- 
 line (or ring) , not only for re-enforcing 
 the openiag, but also for receiving the 
 wire used to hold the stoppers. I have 
 not yet been able to obtain from the 
 glass-makers a small thread extending 
 into the interior, like that in the bottles. 
 The closing of these jars, because of 
 this defect, is more difficult, and requires 
 special care. The cork produces still 
 another impediment, especially the very 
 fine, when the sheets are too fine and 
 wrongly constructed by having the 
 pores ascending. It has necessitated 
 forming the stoppers of 8, 4, and 5 lay- 
 
(24) 
 ers of cork of 20 to 24 lignes in height, 
 glued Avith good sense, that is to say, the 
 pores of the cork placed horizontally, 
 with fish glue, prepared in the following 
 manner : 
 
 I have dissolved four gros ( 1 ) of well- 
 beaten fish glue in eight ounces of water 
 over the fire; when dissolved, it was 
 strained through, fine cloth, then put 
 back on the fire so as to reduce it to a 
 third of its volume, after which an ounce 
 of good brandy of twenty-two degrees 
 was added. I have left the whole over 
 the fire until reduced to about three 
 ounces. The glue, thus prepared, was 
 put in a small pot over the hot ashes, 
 then the sheets of cork, carefully heated, 
 were lightly coated with a brush, so as 
 to glue them together; a string was 
 passed to the two extremities of the cork, 
 so as to hold the sheets lightly squeezed, 
 and allow them to dry either in the sun 
 or hanging in a gentle heat for about 15 
 days. At the end of that time, I have, 
 
 (1) Gros — Yg ounce. 
 
(25) 
 with a cork-cutting knife, given the 
 proper form to the corks, and have cut 
 them to fit each mouth exactly; they 
 have been very successful for me. After 
 having closed the jars and pushed the 
 stoppers in by force with the aid of the 
 pallet, and always perpendicular on the 
 bottle-holder, I treat them with a luting 
 compound. This lute, the composition 
 imparted to me by M. Bardel, made of 
 quicklime, is exposed to the air after 
 being sprinkled with water to dissolve 
 and reduce it to a powder. It is held 
 in closed bottles or jars until needed. 
 This lime, mixed to a white cheese, 
 a la pie^ to the consistency of paste, 
 produces a lute which hardens rapidly 
 and w'hich resists the heat of boiling wa- 
 ter. With this lute the exterior of the 
 cork is coated, the edge of the jars 
 wrapped with hemp and with small 
 bands of cloth above, is properly sup- 
 ported against the cork, and descending 
 from it to the cordline (or ring). After- 
 wards, so that the wire would be able to 
 hold with greater force in maintaining 
 
(26) 
 the cork, I have placed a piece of cork 7 
 to 8 lignes in height, 16 to 18 in diameter 
 in the center of a cork too large to have 
 the wire have effect. At the center of this 
 second cork, applied at the center of the 
 large one, I succeeded in making the 
 wire hold with force and give the proper 
 reinforcement to the cork. 
 
 When everything is foreseen and pre- 
 pared, particularly properly closed, wir- 
 ed, and enveloped in the sacking, one has 
 only to bestow upon all these substances 
 thus prepared the application of the 
 preservation principle. This final part 
 is the most easily done. 
 
 All the vessels or bottles are arranged 
 upright in a boiler which is fiUed after- 
 ward with fresh water, so that the ves- 
 sels are covered to the cordline (or ring) , 
 The boiler is closed with its cover, which 
 is set on the vessels; over the cover is 
 placed a wet cloth so as to close all out- 
 lets and prevent, as far as possible, 
 evaporation from the water-bath. As 
 soon as the boiler is prepared in this 
 
(27) 
 manner, the fire is placed under it ; when 
 the water-bath is at boiling or ebullition, 
 the same degree of heat is continued for 
 more or less time, according to the na- 
 ture of the contained objects. At the 
 end of the time the fire is promptly re- 
 moved into an extinguisher. A quarter 
 of an hour after the fire is removed, the 
 water is released through the valve; a 
 half-hour after the water is removed, 
 the boiler is uncovered ; the work is com- 
 pleted when the bottles or vessels are 
 taken out one or two hours after open- 
 ing. The following day, or fifteen days 
 after (it is immaterial), the bottles are 
 arranged upon laths, like wine, in a tem- 
 perate and shaded place ; if the expecta- 
 tion is to send them to a distance, it is 
 necessary to tar them before putting 
 them on the laths, otherwise this last 
 operation may be dispensed with; the 
 bottles have also been laid upon a ladder 
 for three years, the substances having as 
 much savor as when they were prepared, 
 and yet they had not been tarred. 
 
(28) 
 
 It can be seen from the preceding that 
 all foods that one desires to preserve 
 should be subjected, without exception, 
 to the application of the heat of the 
 water-bath in a manner suitable to each 
 of them, after having been excluded rig- 
 orously from contact with air by the care 
 and the processes that have been indi- 
 cated. 
 
 The principle of preservation is in- 
 variable in its effects, as I have already 
 observed. So that all the losses that I 
 have experienced in my operations have 
 no other cause than that of bad applica- 
 tion of the principle, or of f orgetfulness 
 or negligence in the preparatory proc- 
 esses, according to the account of them 
 that I have rendered. It happens some- 
 times that I do not have entire suc- 
 cess in my operations; but who is the 
 worker who never makes a mistake? 
 May one flatter himself that he can con- 
 stantly avoid loss that may be caused 
 by a defect existing in a vessel, perhaps 
 in the interior of a cork, etc. ? In truth. 
 
(29) 
 these cases are extremely rare, when 
 there is attention given. 
 
(30) 
 
 Means of distinguishing on taking from 
 the boiler the bottles or jars which, by 
 reason of some accidental cause ^or 
 through the action of heat, or through 
 lack of attention in the preparatory- 
 processes, risk being spoiled. 
 
 Each operation terminated, irrespec- 
 tive of what kind, the greatest care is 
 taken to examine with the most minute 
 attention all the bottles in taking them, 
 one after the other, from the boiler. 
 
 I have observed those with defects in 
 the glass, as stars and cracks, occasioned 
 by the action of the heat of the water- 
 bath, or by the wiring when the mouth 
 of the vessel is too weak, others which 
 show by a slight moisture around the 
 cork or by small spots at the mouth that 
 the enclosed substance had filtered out 
 at the moment of expansion from the 
 application of heat in the water-bath; 
 these are the two principal observations 
 
(31) 
 that I have made ; as soon as I have dis- 
 covered any bottles with these defects, 
 that I am certain cannot be preserved, 
 they are put aside to make use of later, 
 so that nothing be lost. 
 
 The first cause of damage that I wish 
 to point out pertaiQS to the quahty and 
 the poor marUufactvu-e of bottles; but 
 the second may proceed, first, from a 
 poor cork ; second, having a poor mouth ; 
 third, having the bottle too full; fourth 
 and finally, having bad tying, etc. One 
 alone of these faults suffices to lose a 
 bottle, wiith greater reason when there 
 is a complication. 
 
 In the application of heat in the wa- 
 ter-bath many obstacles are encountered, 
 particularly for small peas; because, of 
 aU foods, they are the most difficult 
 to preserve perfectly. This vegetable, 
 if gathered too tender or too small, dis- 
 solves in water, the bottle is foimd only 
 half full, and this half is not even fit to 
 preserve (when by chance I discover 
 them in this condition, they are carefully 
 
(32) 
 set aside, so as to make use of them 
 later) . If the small peas have been gath- 
 ered for two or three days, they have lost 
 all their flavor on account of the heat; 
 they harden, they ferment before the 
 operation, the bottles break with detona- 
 tion in the water-bath; those which re- 
 sist breaking successively or are defec- 
 tive, can be easily recognized by the juice 
 found in the bottle, which is turbid, in- 
 stead of which the properly preserved 
 small peas have clear juice. 
 
 It is not necessary to recommend 
 celerity and the greatest cleanliness in 
 the preparation of foods; this is indis- 
 pensable, particularly for those which 
 are to be preserved. 
 
 AU necessary arrangements are made 
 in advance, so that nothing be delayed 
 and that aU the time may be used to ad- 
 vantage. 
 
(33) 
 
 Description of the processes which con- 
 stitute my method; its special and par- 
 ticular application to each of the sub- 
 stances that one desires to preserve. 
 
 POT-AU-I^U, 
 
 I make the customary soup; when 
 the meat has three-quarters cooked, half 
 of it that had been boned is taken out 
 so as to preserve it. The soup made, the 
 broth from it is strained; after it has 
 cooled, it is put in bottles, which have 
 been properly closed, tied, and each one 
 wrapped in sacking. The beef, three- 
 quarters cooked, which was removed, is 
 put in wide-mouthed bottles covered 
 with some of the same broth. After 
 having properly closed, luted, tied, and 
 put them in sacking, they are placed up- 
 right in a boiler with the bottles con- 
 taining the soup ; the boiler is filled with 
 fresh water, so that the bottles and jars 
 are covered up to the cordline (or ring) ; 
 
(34) 
 the cover is placed on the boiler, making 
 it set over the vessels, after having care- 
 fully wrapped it with the wet cloth so 
 as to close all outlets and prevent, as 
 far as possible, evaporation from the 
 water-bath; then fire is put under the 
 boiler; when the water-bath has been 
 in ebullition or up to boiling, the same 
 degree of heat is maintained for an hour, 
 after which the fire is carefully removed 
 in an extinguisher. A half -hour after, 
 the water is let out from the water-bath 
 through the valve which is found in the 
 base of the boiler ; at the end of another 
 half -hour, the boiler is uncovered; an 
 hour or two after the opening of the 
 boUer (the time is immaterial — it de- 
 pends more or less on the care which the 
 boilers requires), the bottles and jars 
 are removed; the stoppers are coated 
 the following day with white resin, so as 
 to send them out to various seaports. 
 At the end of a year or eighteen months, 
 the soup and the meat have been found 
 as good as if made the same day. 
 
(35) 
 CONSOMME 
 
 In the year 12, having hopes of fur- 
 nishing the supplies for the invalids on 
 board His Majesty's vessels, after hav- 
 ing made various experiments in sea- 
 ports, by order of His Excellency, the 
 Minister of Marine and the Colonies, 
 upon food products preserved by my 
 method, I made the necessary arrange- 
 ments to respond to the demands on 
 which I had occasion to count. Conse- 
 quently, in order to have less multipli- 
 cation of jars, and to be able to put 
 eight liters of soup in a bottle, I made 
 the following experiment. Usually, as 
 evaporation is conducted only at the ex- 
 pense of the object which it is desired 
 to dry, (1)1 have prepared a dark con- 
 
 (1) Jellies, meat essences, the foundation of 
 glaces, and bouillon tablets, which are obtained 
 from the soft white parts of animals, with the 
 help of the horns of deer and of fish glue, 
 preserved until hard by means of evaporation 
 
(36) 
 somme from two pounds of good meat 
 and fowl per liter. The consomme be- 
 ing made, strained, and cooled, is put 
 in bottles. Then having been properly- 
 closed, tied, and put in sacking, it is 
 placed in the boiler. The best pieces of 
 beef and fowl are removed when a 
 quarter cooked. When these pieces had 
 cooled, they were put in large-mouthed 
 bottles and the meat covered with the 
 same consomme. After having properly 
 closed, luted, wired, and put in sacking, 
 they were placed upright in the same 
 boiler with the bottles of consomme. 
 Having filled the boiler with cold water 
 to the cordline (or ring) of the vessels, 
 and having covered and provided the 
 cover with a wet cloth, the fire is put 
 under the water-bath. When it reaches 
 the boiling point, this degree of heat is 
 continued for two hours, and the opera- 
 
 through drying in stoves, offer only artificial 
 maintenance, without savor and without taste 
 other than that of empyreuma and of mustiness, 
 etc. 
 
(37) 
 tion finished like the preceding. The 
 beef and the fowl, as well as the con- 
 somme, were found suitably cooked and 
 preserved for more than two years. 
 
 BOUILLON OE PECTORAL JELLY 
 
 This jelly is prepared according to 
 the prescription of a physician, with 
 calves' lungs and feet and a sufficient 
 quantity of red cabbage, carrots, tur- 
 nips, onions, and leeks; a quarter of an 
 hour before taking the jeUy from the 
 fire, candied sugar with Senegal gum 
 are added. It is strained as soon as 
 made, after which it is cooled, put in 
 bottles, closed, tied, enveloped in sack- 
 ing, and placed in the water-bath for a 
 quarter of an hour's boiling, etc. The 
 jelly was perfectly preserved, besides 
 being as good as if it had been made 
 today. 
 
 FILET OF BEEF^ MUTTON^ FOWL^ AND 
 PAETEIDGE. 
 
 All of these substances have been pre- 
 pared just as for daily use, but only 
 
(38) 
 three-quarters cooked, in the same man- 
 ner as roasted partridges. When all 
 have cooled, the;^ are put separately into 
 wide-mouthed bottles. After haying 
 been properly closed, luted, tied, and put 
 in sacking, all are placed in the water- 
 bath so as to give a half -hour's boiling, 
 etc. These substances were sent to Brest, 
 where they have been put in the sea for 
 four months and ten days with preserved 
 vegetables, consomme, and milk, the 
 whole well packed in a chest. When the 
 opening wjas made, all the substances, 
 eighteen in number, were tasted. They 
 were found with all their freshness, and 
 not a single jar was found showing al- 
 teration from the sea. 
 
 To these four experiments, I have 
 added two others that I have done — one 
 on a fricassee of chicken, and the other 
 on a matelote of eels, carp, and pike, 
 garnished with veal sweetbreads, mush- 
 rooms, onions, and anchovy butter, the 
 whole cooked in white wine. The chicken 
 fricassee and the matelote were pre- 
 served perfectly. 
 
(39) 
 These results prove sufficiently that 
 the same principle applied through the 
 same preparatory processes, with the 
 same care and precautions, in general, 
 preserve all animal productions, being 
 mindful not to give any of them in 
 preparation more than three-quarters 
 cooking at the most, so as to give the ad- 
 ditional cooking in the water-bath. 
 
 Most of these substances, such as 
 bouillon, consomme, the jellies, and the 
 essences of meats, fowl, and ham, the 
 juices of plants, the must and syrup of 
 grapes, etc., are able to stand an hour's 
 boiling or more in the water-bath with- 
 out any danger, but to many of the 
 others a quarter of an hour, even a min- 
 ute, too long wlould be injurious. Thus 
 the results are always subordinate to 
 the intelligence, the celerity and the 
 knowledge of the manipulator (1) . 
 
 (1) "One does not speak in the workrooms 
 (said the celebrated Chaptal, Elements of 
 chemistry, preliminary discourse, p. XXXI.) 
 
(40) 
 FRESH EGGS. 
 
 The freshest eggs are most resistive 
 to the heat of the water-bath; in conse- 
 quence, I have taken the day's eggs, 
 which are arranged in a short-necked 
 bottle with raspings of bread to fill the 
 spaces and to guarantee the eggs from 
 breaking during the voyages. The bot- 
 tles are properly closed, luted, tied, etc. 
 They are put into a large kettle of suf- 
 
 because of the caprices of the operations; but 
 it appears that this vague statement has taken 
 birth in the ignorance in which the workers are 
 of the true principles of their art; because na- 
 ture is not influenced by determination and 
 discernment; it obeys constant laws. The dead 
 matter which we employ in our workshops, pre- 
 sents the requisite effects in which the will has 
 no part, and in which consequently it could not 
 know nor have caprices. "Know better your 
 original materials," could be said to the work- 
 men, "study better the principles of your art, 
 and you can foresee all, predict all, and calcu- 
 late all; it is only your ignorance that makes of 
 your operations a continual groping, and a dis- 
 
(41) 
 ficient size (1) so as to give them 60 and 
 90 degrees heat. Afterward the water- 
 bath is removed from the fire; when it 
 has cooled so that the hand can be held 
 in it, the eggs are removed from it and 
 kept six months. At the end of that pe- 
 
 couraging alternative of success and reverse." 
 In short, the manipulator who works with a 
 perfect knowledge of the principles of his art 
 and of the result of its application, will be 
 surprised and astonished by a loss or a reverse 
 that he may experience in his operations, and 
 far from attributing it to caprice, will discover 
 the cause of this loss to be the neglect of some 
 necessary precaution in the application of the 
 same principle; the reverses will serve him as 
 standards to better calculate and perfect the 
 preparatory processes. As he acquires the con- 
 viction of the invariability of his principle in its 
 effects, he knows that all loss or reverse can 
 only proceed from poor application. 
 
 (1) This operation on a large scale, that is to 
 say, in a large boiler, will require more care, in 
 that it is more difficult to control the degree of 
 heat than in a small water-bath which is changed 
 at will. 
 
(42) 
 riod, the eggs are taken out of the bot- 
 tle; they are placed on the fire in fresh 
 water to which 60 to 90 degrees of heat 
 are given. They were cooked properly 
 for the sippet, and also as fresh as when 
 they had been prepared. As for the 
 hard eggs, treated a la tripe or a la 
 blanche sauce^ etc., they are given 80 de- 
 grees of heat in the water-bath, that is to 
 say, when the boiling starts, they are 
 removed from the fire. 
 
 MilLK. 
 
 Twelve liters of milk fresh from the 
 cow have been taken, set in the water- 
 bath and reduced to two-thirds of its 
 volume, skimming it often. Afterwards 
 it is strained through cloth ; when cooled, 
 the skin which had formed on it in cool- 
 ing is removed, and the milk is put in 
 bottles with the ordinary processes, and 
 then in the water-bath for tw^o hours' 
 boiling, etc. At the end of some months 
 it was noticed that the cream had sep- 
 arated in flakes and was floating on the 
 
(43) 
 surface in the bottle. In order to avoid 
 this objection, a second experiment was 
 made with an equal quantity of milk 
 which had been reduced in the water- 
 bath by a half instead of a third, as in 
 the first. I conceived adding to it, when 
 it was reduced, eight fresh egg yolks 
 diluted wth the same milk. After hav- 
 ing left the whole thus well mixed a 
 half -hour over the fire, it was finished 
 as in the former experiment. 
 
 This method has succeeded perfectly. 
 The egg yolks had so thickened it 
 all that at the end of a year, and even 
 eighteen months, the milk was preserved 
 so that I have put it in bottles. The for- 
 mer was likewise preserved for two years 
 and more; the cream which had formed 
 in flakes disappeared on putting it on 
 the fibre, both of them tolerating the same 
 heating. From both of them butter 
 and whey were obtained ; in the different 
 experiments and chemical analyses to 
 which they had been submitted it has 
 been recognized that the latter, truly su- 
 
(44) 
 perior, could replace the best cream that 
 is sold in Paris for coffee. 
 
 CREAM. 
 
 Five liters of cream, skimmed care- 
 fully from good milk, were concentrated 
 without skimming to four liters in the 
 water-bath, the skin which had formed 
 on it was removed, so as to strain the 
 whole through cloth, and put it to cool. 
 After having again removed the skin 
 that had formed in cooling, it was put 
 into half -liter bottles with the ordinary 
 processes, so as to give it an hour's 
 boiling in the water-bath. At the end of 
 two years this cream was found as fresh 
 as if it had been prepared that day. I 
 have made good fresh butter from it in 
 quantities of 4 to 5 ounces per half -liter. 
 
 WHEY. 
 
 I have prepared whey by the ordinary 
 processes in practise. When it was clar- 
 ified and cooled, it was put in bottles, 
 
(45) 
 etc., so as to give it an hour's boUing in 
 the water-bath. However well clarified 
 the whey may be, when put in the water- 
 bath, the application of the heat always 
 separates from it some particles of 
 cheese which form a deposit; I have kept 
 it two to three years in this way, and be- 
 fore making use of it have filtered it so as 
 to have it very clear. In case of haste, it 
 suffices to decant it, to obtain it clear. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 As the difference in climate produces 
 more or less early growth, and causes 
 much variety in their qualities, their 
 species, and their properties, one must 
 be governed in consequence by the place 
 in which they grow. 
 
 At Paris and in its environs, June 
 and July are the best season for pre- 
 serving small green peas, small broad 
 beans, and asparagus. Later these veg- 
 etables lose too much through heat and 
 dryness. In August and September I 
 preserve artichokes, French a?id kidney 
 
(46) 
 beans, as well as cauliflowers. In gen- 
 eral, aU vegetabler intended to be pre- 
 served should be gathered as late as pos- 
 sible and prepared with the greatest 
 haste, so that there is only a step from 
 the garden to the water-bath. 
 
 SMALL GREEN PEAS. 
 
 The Clamard and the Crochu are the 
 two species of peas that I prefer, partic- 
 ularly the latter, which is the mellowest 
 and the sweetest of all, as well as the 
 earliest, after the Michaux, however, 
 which is the earliest of all; but the latter 
 is not suitable for preserving. I do not 
 gather them too small, as they soften in 
 the water during the operation ; they are 
 taken when of medium size as (being 
 more a,dvanced) they have much more 
 taste aiid savor. They are sheUed im- 
 mediateW on gathering. The largest 
 ones are separated from these, after 
 which they are carefully heaped in the 
 bottles upon the bench already cited, so 
 as to get iu as many as possible. They 
 
(47) 
 are closed, etc., so as to put them in the 
 water-bath in order to boil for an hour 
 and a half, when the season is cool and 
 moist, and two hours when it is hot and 
 dry; the operation is finished like the 
 preceding. 
 
 The large ones which have been sep- 
 arated, from the smaller, are likewise 
 put in bottles; they are closed, etc., so as 
 to give them, according to the season, 
 two hours or two and a half hours boU- 
 in the water-bath. 
 
 ASPARAGUS. 
 
 The asparagus is cleaned as for daily 
 use, whether whole or in small pieces. 
 Before putting it into bottles or jars, 
 it is plunged into boiling water and 
 then into cold water, so as to remove the 
 acridity peculiar to this vegetable; the 
 whole ones are arranged carefully in 
 jars, the head at the bottom; those pre- 
 pared in littles pieces are put in bottles. 
 After both are well drained, they are 
 
(48) 
 closed, etc., and put in the water-bath so 
 as to receive there a boiling only, etc. 
 
 SMALL BROAD BEANS. 
 
 Neither the horse-bean, nor even the 
 Julienne, which greatly resembles it, is 
 good to preserve. I use the true broad 
 bean, which is as large as my thumb, 
 when it is mature. It is gathered verj^ 
 small, the size of my little finger, for to 
 preserve the pod. As the pod is suscept- 
 ible to contact with the air, which browns 
 it, the precaution is taken in shelling to 
 put these in the bottles. When the bot- 
 tles are filled and heaped lightly on the 
 stool, and aU the spaces filled, a small 
 boquet of savory is added to each bottle. 
 They are closed quickly, etc., so as to put 
 them in the water-bath to boil for an 
 hour, etc. When this vegetable is gath- 
 ered, prepared, and manufactured with 
 celerity, it is obtained of a greenish 
 white; on the other hand, when slow in 
 preparation, it browns and hardens. 
 
(49) 
 
 SHELLED BROAD BEANS. 
 
 To preserre the shelled broad beans, 
 they are taken very large, about a half- 
 inch or more in length ; they are shelled 
 and put in bottles with a small bouquet 
 of savory, etc., and then put in the wa- 
 ter-bath so as to boil for an hour and a 
 half, etc. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS. 
 
 The kidney bean known under the 
 name Bayolet, which resembles the 
 Swiss, is the species which is better suit- 
 ed to preserve green; it imites the best 
 taste with uniformity ; I gather them as 
 for daily use. As soon as picked, they 
 are put immediately into bottles which 
 are carefully heaped when on the bench 
 so as to fill the spaces. They are closed, 
 etc., and put in the water-bath for an 
 hour and a half. When the beans are a 
 little larger, they are cut lengthwise into 
 two or three pieces ; when cut this way, 
 they need only an hour in the water- 
 bath. 
 
(50) 
 
 WHITE BEANS. 
 
 The kidney bean of Soissons merits 
 the just title to preference ; in default of 
 it, I take the best possible, gathering 
 them when the pod begins to yellow; 
 they are shelled and put iQ bottles imme- 
 diately, etc. They are put in the water- 
 bath to boil for two hours, etc. 
 
 WHOLE ABTICHOKES. 
 
 I take them of average size; after 
 having removed all the unnecessary 
 leaves, and pared them, they are plvmged 
 into boiling water, and then into cold 
 water; after they have drained, they are 
 put in wide-mouthed bottles, closed, etc., 
 and then in the water-bath to receive an 
 hour's boUing, etc. 
 
 QXJABTEBED AB.TICHOKES. 
 
 The fine artichokes are cut into eight 
 pieces; the outer leaves are removed. 
 
(51) 
 only a few being left. They are Dlunged 
 into boiling water, then into cold water ; 
 when well drained, they are put on the 
 stove in a casserole, with a bit of fresh 
 butter, seasoning, and fine herbs; when 
 half -cooked, they are removed from the 
 stove and put to cool ; then they are put 
 in wide-mouthed bottles, closed, luted, 
 tied, etc., and put in the water-bath to 
 boU for a half -hour, etc. 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS. 
 
 Like the artichokes, when the cauli- 
 flowers are weU cleaned, they are pltmg- 
 ed into boUing water, then into cold wa- 
 ter ; when they are well drained, they are 
 put into wide-mouthed bottles, etc. ; they 
 are put in the water-bath so as to give 
 them a half -hour's boiling, etc. 
 
 As the years vary and are sometimes 
 dry, sometimes wet, one will readily see 
 that it is equally necessary to study and 
 to vary the degree of heat which is ad- 
 visable under the two conditions ; it is a 
 
,(52) 
 special consideration which should not 
 be neglected. 
 
 For example in a cool and moist year, 
 the vegetables are tenderer, and conse- 
 quently more susceptible to the action 
 of heat ; ia this case, 7 to 8 minutes less 
 boiling in the water-bath should be 
 given, and to give as much more in the 
 dry years when the vegetables are firmer 
 and more resistive to the action of heat, 
 etc. 
 
 SOREEL. 
 
 I have gathered sorrel, mountain 
 spinach, lettuce, white beet, chervU, seal- 
 lion, etc., in suitable amoxmts. When 
 they are properly picked, washed, 
 drained, and cut, the whole is cooked in 
 a copper vessel well tinned. These vege- 
 tables should be cooked as for daily use, 
 and not dried and scorched, as is often 
 done in the home when they are to be 
 preserved. This degree of cooking is 
 most suitable. When the herb is pre- 
 pared in this way, it is put to cool in 
 
(53) 
 earthenware or stoneware vessels; then 
 put into bottles of somewhat large open- 
 ing, closed, etc., and put in the water- 
 bath to be given a quarter-hotu-'s boiling 
 only. This time suffices to preserve it 
 intact for ten years and also as fresh as 
 if it came from the garden. This way is 
 without doubt the best and the most 
 economical for homes, and civU and mili- 
 tary hospitals. It is above all advan- 
 tageous for the sailor; because it may be 
 carried thus prepared, to farthest In- 
 dia, as fresh and as savory as though 
 cooked that day. 
 
 SPINACH AND CHICOEY. 
 
 These two kinds are prepared as for 
 ordinary use ; when they are newly gath- 
 ered, cleaned, blanched, cooled, pressed, 
 and minced, they are put in bottles, etc., 
 so as to boil them a quarter of an hour 
 in the water-bath, etc. 
 
 Carrots, cabbage, turnips, parsnips, 
 onions, potatoes, celery, Spanish car- 
 doons, beets, and in general all vege- 
 
(54) 
 tables, are preserved alike, they may be 
 blanched only, or prepared with or with- 
 out meat according to the use made of 
 them when taken out of the vessel. In 
 the former case, the vegetables that are 
 to be preserved, are blanched and half- 
 cooked in water with a little salt; they 
 are removed from the fire so as to drain 
 and cool them ; afterwards they are put 
 into bottles, etc., so as to put them in 
 the water-bath and give to the carrots, 
 cabbage, turnips, parsnips, and beets an 
 hour's boiling, and a half hour to the 
 onions, potatoes, celery, etc. In the lat- 
 ter case the vegetables are prepared, 
 with or without meat, as for ordinary 
 use; when they are cooked three-quar- 
 ters and properly prepared and seas- 
 oned, they are taken from the fire so as 
 to let them cool; then put into bottles, 
 closed, etc., so as to give a full quarter 
 of an hour's boiling in the water-bath, 
 etc. 
 
(55) 
 
 JULIENNE. 
 
 A julienne soup of carrots, leeks, 
 turnips, sorrel, French beans, celery, lit- 
 tle peas, etc., was prepared in the ordi- 
 nary way, which consists of cutting into 
 small pieces either round or long, car- 
 rots, turnips, leeks, French beans, and 
 celery. After having properly picked 
 and washed them, the vegetables are 
 put with a good bit of fresh butter into 
 a casserole on the fire, allowed to half- 
 cook in this way, after which the sorrel 
 and little peas are added. When all has 
 been cooked and reduced, the vegetables 
 are moistened with good consomme that 
 was prepared expressly with good meat 
 and fowl; the whole was boiled for a 
 half -hour, then removed from the fire to 
 cool, and put into bottles, closed, etc., so 
 as to give the julienne a half -hour's boil- 
 ing in the water-bath, etc.; it was pre- 
 served for more than two years. The 
 julienne without meat is made in the 
 same way, except that instead of con- 
 
(56) 
 somme, the vegetables are wet, when 
 they are properly cooked, with a clear 
 puree, that may be made from kidney 
 beans, lentils, or from large green peas, 
 that have been preserved, and it is given 
 likewise a half-hour's boiling in the 
 water-bath, etc. 
 
 CULLIS FROM EOOTS. 
 
 I have composed and prepared a cul- 
 lis from roots by the ordinary processes. 
 It was so dark that soup for a dozen 
 persons could be made from a liter, by 
 adding two liters of water to it before 
 heating as for ordinary use. When 
 cooled, it was put into bottles so as to 
 give it a half -hour's boiling in the water- 
 bath, etc. 
 
 TOMATOES OE LOVE APPLES. 
 
 The tomatoes are gathered well ma- 
 tured, when they have acquired their 
 fine color. After they have been washed 
 and drained, they are cut into pieces and 
 
(57) 
 put to soften in a well tinned copper 
 vessel. When they have been softened 
 and reduced a third of their volume, 
 they were strained through a sieve, suf- 
 ficiently fine to retain the seeds; the 
 whole strained, the decoction was re- 
 placed on the stove, and concentrated so 
 that there remained only a third of its 
 total volvmie ; after cooling in stoneware 
 dishes, it was put directly into bottles, 
 etc., so as to give it a good boiling only 
 in the water-bath, etc. 
 
 I have not yet made experiments 
 upon flowers, but there is no doubt that 
 this new method will give valuable and 
 economical results. 
 
 MEDICINAL AND POT-HEBBS. 
 
 I have filled a bottle with peppermint 
 in leaf and in full flower, and pressed it 
 down with a trvmcheon so as to make it 
 hold more, properly closed, etc., so as 
 to give a short boiling in the water-bath, 
 etc. It is preserved perfectly. One 
 could operate in like manner on all the 
 
(58) 
 plants which one wished to preserve in 
 leaf. The preserver will have to calcu- 
 late the degree of heat which is suitable 
 to give to each of these on which he will 
 work. (1.) 
 
 (1) The method of extracting the juice of the 
 plants by water has more or less objection; all 
 of those, the principle of which is very fugitive 
 and easily evaporated, lose excessively, even in 
 lukewarm water, and much more, when the 
 water is raised to a higher degree of heat and 
 when the plants are left a long time to digest. 
 The aromatic plants are infused, when it is 
 desired to preserve the aroma, and not to charge 
 the water with the extractive principle which 
 the plant contains. In this way tea and coffee 
 are made by infusion; all the theories, ancient 
 and modern, and all the new apparatus con- 
 ceived for holding the aroma of coffee, also leave 
 much to be desired. 
 
 Boiling which is often employed for extract- 
 ing the aroma from plants by means of distilla- 
 tion, notwithstanding that all the apparatus 
 used is closed, denatures the products oftenest. 
 Not only the principles extracted by the water 
 which are already lost through this primary 
 operation, but there is scarcely any of the prop- 
 
(59) 
 
 JUICES OF HEKBS. 
 
 I have preserved very well the juices 
 of plants, such as those of lettuce, cher- 
 vil, borage, wild chicory, watercress, etc. 
 They were prepared and cleansed by the 
 ordinary processes, closed, etc., so as to 
 boil them in the water-bath, etc. 
 
 FRUITS AND THEIE JUICES. 
 
 Fruits and their juices demand the 
 greatest celerity in the preparatory pro- 
 cesses, and particularly in the applica- 
 tion of the heat in the water-bath. 
 
 erty remaining after the evaporation to which 
 they have been subjected to form the extracts. 
 The extracts can therefore represent only the 
 semblance of the soluble and nutritive proper- 
 ties of the vegetable and animal substances, 
 since the heat necessary for forming the extract 
 by means of evaporation, destroyed the aroma 
 and nearly all of the properties which the sub- 
 stance contained. 
 
(60) 
 
 It is not necessary to await perfect 
 maturity of fruits to preserve them 
 whole or in quarters, because they soften 
 in the water-bath; it is also not best to 
 take those at the beginning of the sea- 
 son, nor those at the end. The first and 
 the last are never of as good quality or 
 perfume as those which are gathered in 
 the proper season, which is when the 
 major part of the harvest is found in 
 maturity. 
 
 RED AND WHITE CURRANTS IN CLUSTERS. 
 
 I have gathered the red and white 
 currants separately, not too ripe; I se- 
 lect the best, and the finest and most 
 suitable clusters; put them in bottles 
 with care to heap them lightly when on 
 the bench, so as to fill the spaces ; after 
 which they are closed, etc., put in the 
 water-bath, and given careful attention 
 so that as soon as it starts in ebullition 
 or to boil, it is removed quickly from the 
 
(61) 
 stove, and a quarter of an hour after, 
 the water is let out of the bater-bath 
 through the valve, etc. 
 
 BED AND VTHITE CURRANTS PICKED. 
 
 The red and white currants are picked 
 separately, put in bottles and completed 
 like those in clusters, with equal care in 
 the water-bath. I preserve many more 
 of the picked, because the clusters al- 
 ways give a harshness to the juice. 
 
 CHERRIES^ BASPBERRIESj MULBERRIES, 
 and BLACK CURRANTS. 
 
 These fruits are gathered not too ripe, 
 so that they may crush less in the opera- 
 tion. They are put separately into bot- 
 tles and heaped lightly when on the 
 bench, closed, etc., and finished like, and 
 with equal care as, currants. 
 
 JUICE OF RED CURRANTS. 
 
 The red currants are gathered well 
 ripened, crushed upon a fine sieve, and 
 
(62) 
 the marc which remains on the sieve put 
 in the press so as to extract all the juice 
 that may remain, which is mixed with 
 the first. The whole is perfimied with 
 a little strawberry juice. The decoc- 
 tion is then passed through a finer sieve 
 than the first, put in bottles, etc., and 
 then in the water-bath, giving the same 
 attention as for currants, etc. 
 
 I work in the same way with the juice 
 of white currants, and thorny barber- 
 ries, as well as with those of pomegran- 
 ate, oranges, lemons, etc. 
 
 STEAWBERRIES. 
 
 I have made many different kinds of 
 experiments upon the strawberry with- 
 out being able to obtain its perfume; it 
 has been necessary to have recourse to 
 sugar. Consequently I have crushed 
 and strained the strawberries on the 
 sieve as in making jellies, for a pound of 
 strawberries, a half pound of powdered 
 sugar is added with the juice of half a 
 lemon, the whole well mixed, and the 
 
(63) 
 decoction put into bottles, closed, etc., 
 left in the water-bath until ebullition 
 started, etc. This method has succeeded 
 very well, except that much of the color 
 was lost, but that deficiency can be sup- 
 plied. 
 
 APEICOTS. 
 
 For the table, the common apricot and 
 the apricot peach, the two most thriv- 
 ing, are the best kinds for preserving. 
 Those on the espalier do not have near- 
 ly so much flavor and aroma. Ordinar- 
 ily I mix enough of the two kinds to- 
 gether, inasmuch as the first sustains the 
 other which has more juice and which 
 softens more through the action of the 
 heat; however, one can prepare them 
 separately, if the precaution be taken to 
 give a few minutes less in the water- 
 bath to the apricot peach; that is to say, 
 it is necessary to remove it from the 
 stove as soon as the water-bath com- 
 mences to boil, whereas for the other, it 
 is not removed from the fire until after 
 the water-bath is at the first boiling. 
 
The apricots are gathered when ripe, 
 but slightly firm, that is when by press- 
 ing lightly between the fingers, the stone 
 is detached. As soon as gathered, I cut 
 them in halves lengthwise, remove the 
 stone, and the thinnest skin possible. 
 According to the opening of the vessels, 
 if they be in halves or in quarters, I put 
 them in bottles, tap them on the bench 
 so as to fill the spaces ; to each bottle is 
 added 12 to 15 of the almonds from the 
 stones which have been broken ; they are 
 closed, etc., and put in the water-bath 
 to give only a boiling, and immediately 
 removed from the stove with the same 
 precaution employed with regard to the 
 currants, etc. 
 
 PEACHES. 
 
 The large Mign&nne and the Calande 
 are the two kinds of peaches in which 
 are united the best quality and aroma ; in 
 default of these two kinds, the best pos- 
 sible are taken for preserving" by the 
 same processes as those employed for 
 apricots. 
 
(65) 
 NECTAEINES. 
 
 The nectarine is taken well-ripened, 
 that is to say, riper than the peach, inas- 
 much as it holds up better under the 
 action of the heat, and besides the skin 
 is left on in preserving. As to the rest, 
 I operate in the same manner as for ap- 
 ricots and peaches, and always look after 
 the water-bath, as for currants. 
 
 GBEENGAGES AND MIEABELLE PLUMS. 
 
 I have used the greengages whole, as 
 well as the other large plinns, with stem 
 and nut, and even the Perdrigons, and 
 the Alberges, which have succeeded very 
 well with me; but the objection is that 
 very few of these large plums are con- 
 tained in a large vessel since in heaping 
 them up, one cannot fill the spaces, at 
 least without totally crushing them, and 
 after they have been subjected to the 
 action of the heat in the water-bath, they 
 are reduced so that the vessels are half 
 
(66) 
 empty. Consequently I have given up 
 this method as too expensive and have 
 preserved thq large plums only after 
 cutting them in halves and removing 
 the stone. This method is easier and 
 more economical; the stoppers of the 
 size to close the large vessels were much 
 dearer and the very fine cork scarcer; on 
 the other hand, the vessels of small or 
 average opening are much easier to close 
 properly and in consequence the opera- 
 tion is more certain. As to the Mrrahelle 
 and all other small plums, they are pre- 
 pared whole with the stones, after hav- 
 ing removed the stem, because they are 
 more easily heaped up, and leave only 
 very small spaces in the vessels. For all 
 plimis, whole or cut in halves, generally 
 the same processes are employed, with 
 the same care and attention as for the 
 apricot and the peach. 
 
 PEAKS or ALL KINDS. 
 
 When the pears are peeled, cut in 
 quarters, and cleaned of their seeds, as 
 
(67) 
 well as the cores, they are put in bottles, 
 etc., for to put in the water-bath. The 
 degree of heat is watched carefully, so 
 that they should only come to ebullition, 
 when they are arranged with a knife. 
 To cook the pears they are given 5 or 6 
 minutes boiling in the water-bath. For 
 the fallen pears it is necessary to give a 
 quarter-hoiir's boiling, etc. 
 
 CHESTNUTS. 
 
 The head of the chestnut is pricked 
 with the point of a knife as for parching 
 them. They are put in bottles, etc., so 
 as to give them a boiling in the water- 
 bath, etc. 
 
 TEUFFLES. 
 
 After having properly washed and 
 brushed the truffles to remove all the 
 earth, the surface is taken off lightly 
 with a knife. Afterward, according to 
 the diameter or the opening of the mouth 
 of the vessels, they are put in bottles, 
 
(68) 
 whole or cut in pieces ; the residue is put 
 in separate bottles; aU properly closed, 
 etc. They are put in the water-bath to 
 receive an hour's boiling, etc. (It is not 
 necessary to enjoin that the truffles 
 should be wholesome and recently gath- 
 ered.) 
 
 MUSHEOOMS. 
 
 Mushrooms are taken, coming out of 
 the bed well formed and fairly firm. 
 After having picked and washed them, 
 they are put in a casserole on the stove 
 with a bit of butter or some good olive 
 oil so as to draw out the water. They 
 are left on the stove until this water is 
 reducd to half ; removed to let them cool 
 in an earthen pan, then they are put in 
 bottles so as to give a good boiling in 
 the water-bath, etc. 
 
 GRAPE MUST OR SWEET WINE. 
 
 In 1808, during the vintage, I have 
 taken the black grape, gathered from 
 
(69) 
 the vine with care ; after having removed 
 the green and rotten ones, they are 
 picked from the stem, afterward crushed 
 on a fine sieve. The marc which re- 
 mained on the sieve is put under the 
 press, so as to extract any juice which 
 might remain in it. The two products, 
 that from the press and that from the 
 sieve, are put together into a small cask. 
 After having left it to settle for twenty- 
 four hours, it is put into bottles, etc., 
 so as to give it a good boiling in the 
 water-bath, etc. (1.) When the opera- 
 tion is completed, the bottles are re- 
 moved from the boiler ; the action of the 
 heat had precipitated a little color that 
 the must had acquired in the prepara- 
 tion, and the must had become! very 
 clear. It was arranged on laths in my 
 laboratory as one places wine. 
 
 I have repeated all these experiments 
 the 10th of September, 1809, in the pres- 
 
 (1) I have put the residues from the punch- 
 eon with the marc from the press into the vin- 
 tage. 
 
(70) 
 ence of the special commission named by 
 His Excellency, the Minister of the In- 
 terior, and composed of persons of the 
 highest attainment in the art. 
 
 Some newly started experiments as 
 well as many others that I propose to 
 try upon various substances will be de- 
 scribed in a work that I expect to pub- 
 lish as soon as I shall be able to report on 
 their result. 
 
 Manner of making use of the prepared 
 and preserved substances. 
 
 MEATS^ GAMEj FOWX^ FISH. 
 
 An ordinarj'^ pot-au-feu of which the 
 degree of cooking has been calculated in 
 the preparation as well as the applica- 
 tion of the heat in the water-bath, need 
 not be heated to the degree needed to 
 obtain soup and boiled meat. 
 
 For greater economy, and less multi- 
 plication of vessels, a good consomme, 
 such as indicated, is more desirable, 
 since the beef, as well as the consomme. 
 
(71) 
 only needs to be heated, and an average 
 of one-half or two-tMrds of the water 
 which is added to the consomme is ob- 
 tained as a good soup. 
 
 Likewise a liter bottle of consomme, 
 by means of two liters of water which 
 you add to it at the moment of using, 
 gives twelve portions of soup by adding 
 to it a little salt. In this way one could 
 have at home, at little expense, a small 
 supply for use during warm weather 
 when it is so difficult to be procured, par- 
 ticularly in the coiuitry. 
 
 All the meats, fowl, game, fish, etc., 
 which have received three-quarters cook- 
 ing in preparation and the remainder in 
 the water-bath, as indicated, on taking 
 from the vessel need only be heated to 
 the proper degree for serving them on 
 the table. If it happens, for example, 
 that on taking a substance from a vessel, 
 it is not sufficiently cooked, through fail- 
 ure of the preparatory processes or 
 through not receiving sufficient heat in 
 the water-bath, in that case it requires 
 
(72) 
 only putting it on the stove to give it 
 the necessary cooking. In consequence, 
 when the worker has taken proper care 
 that his preparations are seasoned and 
 cooked properly, they may be readily 
 and conveniently used in aU cases, inas- 
 much as on the one side one need only to 
 heat them, and on the other side, at a 
 pinch, they could be eaten cold. 
 
 The substances prepared and pre- 
 served in this manner do not require, as 
 one might think, to be eaten as soon as 
 they are opened. The food from the 
 same vessel may be eaten for 8 or 10 
 days after it has been opened (1), pro- 
 vided only that the stopper be replaced 
 immediately after one has taken the re- 
 quired amount; so that the capacity of 
 
 (1) See the report made to the Society for the 
 Encouragement of National Industry, by M. 
 Bouriat, in the name of the commission. Two 
 half -liter bottles, one of milk, the other of whey, 
 opened after twenty to thirty days, had been 
 reclosed with little care, yet these two sub- 
 stances had preserved all their properties. 
 
(73) 
 the vessel could be regulated from one 
 to 25 liters and more according to the 
 amount of the presumed consumption. 
 
 MEAT AND FOWL JELLY. 
 
 A jeUy well prepared and preserved, 
 removed carefully in small portions from 
 the vessel, can be used to garnish cold 
 meats, or it may be softened easUy in the 
 vessel in the water-bath, after opening 
 it ; afterwards it can be melted on a plate 
 so as to reset it as a glaze before serving. 
 
 In a number of emergencies a cook 
 lacks the necessary substances to make 
 sauces, etc., but with the essence of 
 meats, fowl, ham, etc., as well as with 
 the foundation of glazes properly pre- 
 pared and preserved, he can obtain them 
 in a moment. 
 
 BROTH OE PECTOEAL JELLY. 
 
 Regarding pectoral jelly, prepared 
 and preserved as indicated, the use made 
 of it may be, on taking from the bottle. 
 
(74) 
 the diluting of it with more or less boil- 
 ing water, or using it cold, in the propor- 
 tions deemed by the chefs most suitable 
 in the various cases. 
 
 MILK AND CEEAM. 
 
 Cream, milk, and whey, prepared and 
 preserved as indicated, are used in the 
 same w;ay as the fresh in daily use. 
 
 Since cream and milk are preserved 
 perfectly in this manner, there is no 
 doubt but that one could even preserve 
 the creamed side dishes, as well as those 
 for ices which, since they had been pre- 
 pared and finished before being put in 
 bottles, need only to be heated slightly 
 in the water-bath, after having been 
 opened, so as to facilitate removal from 
 the vessel. One could thus procure 
 creams and ices in succession and at a 
 moment's notice. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 The vegetables put in bottles without 
 
(75) 
 being cooked and subjected afterward 
 to the action of the water-bath in the 
 manner indicated need to be prepared 
 on taking from the vessel so as to use 
 them. This preparation may be accord- 
 ing to the taste and the desires of each 
 one and may conform to the different 
 methods employed in season. It is nec- 
 essary to give attention to washing the 
 vegetables on taking out of the vessel, 
 and likewise so as to facilitate their re- 
 moval the bottle is filled with lukewarm 
 water, and after draining it of this first 
 water, the vegetables are washed in a 
 second water a little warmer, and after 
 this draining they are prepared with or 
 without meat. 
 
 WHITE KIDNEY BEANS. 
 
 As in season, the white kidney beans 
 are blanched in water with a little salt 
 on removal from the bottle. When 
 properly cooked, they are removed from 
 the stove, and left in this cooking water 
 a half hour and even an hour, so as to 
 
(76) 
 make them tenderer, afterwards they 
 are prepared with or without meat. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS. 
 
 In the same way the French beans 
 are blanched when they have not been 
 cooked sufficiently by the preserving 
 processes, which happens sometimes, as 
 well as with artichokes, asparagus, cauli- 
 flower, etc. If they are sufficiently 
 cooked on taking from the vessel, they 
 are only washed with hot water, so as 
 to prepare them afterwards. 
 
 SMALL GEEEN PEAS 
 
 The small green peas are prepared in 
 much the same manner. If in season 
 they are fo^md poorly prepared, it is 
 the cook who receives the blame; but in 
 the winter if they are found poor, great 
 care is taken to put the blame on the one 
 who has preserved them, though poor 
 preparations are to be attributed often- 
 est to bad butter or oil, or to rancid fat 
 
(77) 
 which was used without care or through 
 economy; sometimes they are prepared 
 two hours too soon, or left to deteriorate 
 and to stick to the bottom of the casse- 
 role on the stove, with the result that the 
 butter is turned to oil and tastes like 
 burned sugar, or they are prepared with- 
 out care and in too great haste; it is in 
 this way that one is served with the peas 
 that are swimming in water; but every 
 one to his own way. Here is mine. 
 
 As soon as the small peas are washed 
 and weU drained (it is not necessary to 
 leave this vegetable in water, any more 
 than the broad beans, as it detracts from 
 its quality), I put them with a bit of 
 good fresh butter in a casserole on the 
 stove and add a bouquet of parsley and 
 green onions ; after having sauted them 
 for some time in the butter, I sprinkle 
 them with a little starch, just to flour the 
 peas, and wet them an instant later with 
 boiling water ; they are boiled for a full 
 quarter-hour, untU the sauce is reduced ; 
 then seasoned with salt and a little pep- 
 per, and left on the stove to reduce 
 
irs) 
 
 further, when they are removed from 
 the fire so as to add, for a bottle of small 
 peas, fresh butter as large as a walnut, 
 and a tablespoon of powdered sugar. 
 They are allowed to stew well vaitil the 
 butter is melted, without returning to 
 the stove, and then set in a heap on a 
 plate that has been heated. I have often 
 observed that in adding the sugar to the 
 little peas when they are on the stove, 
 and giving them only a boiling, the peas 
 are shrivelled and the sauce thinned so 
 that it cannot be thickened; thus one 
 must take great care not to put the sugar 
 and the last butter with the peas tmtil 
 the moment of serving them, and after 
 they have been withdrawn from the 
 stove. It is the only way to finish them 
 properly, because the butter should 
 never appear in the sauce of little peas, 
 no more in summer than in winter. 
 There is still another way of preparing 
 the little peas, and which should agree 
 with many persons; it consists in cook- 
 ing them in water only; when they are 
 cooked, the water is drained off so as 
 
(79) 
 to stew them with a piece of good fresh 
 butter, salt, pepper, and sugar, all to- 
 gether on a gentle fire, then to serve 
 them at once on a very hot dish. It is 
 necessary to take care that the little peas 
 should not cook with the seasoning, 
 otherwise the butter wUl become oily, 
 and the sugar soften the peas so they 
 dissolve in the water. 
 
 BEOAD BEANS. 
 
 The small broad beans are prepared, 
 shelled as well as unsheUed, by the same 
 process and with the same care used with 
 little peas. 
 
 The large preserved peas make excel- 
 lent piu-ee; they are equally good with 
 meat. As regards asparagus, artichokes, 
 cauliflower, etc., they are prepared or- 
 dinarily after having been washed, etc. 
 Peas, beans, kidney beans, and all kinds 
 of vegetables, may be three-quarters 
 cooked, seasoning them at the time when 
 they are to be used without further 
 preparation on opening, putting them in 
 
(80) 
 bottles or other vessels, when cooled, 
 closing them, etc., and giving them a 
 half -hour's boiling in the water-bath; by 
 this means the vegetables may be well- 
 preserved, and aU prepared, so that one 
 could make use of them at the instant, 
 without other attention than that of 
 heating ; and further it is true that in this 
 case the vegetables could be eaten cold ; 
 one may avoid in this way all embarrass- 
 ment on voyages by land and sea, etc. 
 
 CHICORY AND SPINACH. 
 
 I prepare chicory and spinach in the 
 customary way, either with or without 
 meat ; each half -liter bottle contains two 
 or three dishes, according to their size. 
 When only a single dish is needed, the 
 bottle is closed, and kept for another 
 day. 
 
 JULIENNE. 
 
 After having emptied a liter bottle of 
 preserved julienne, I add two liters of 
 boiling water with a little salt, and I 
 
(81) 
 have a soup for a dozen to fifteen per- 
 sons. 
 
 CULLIS OF ROOTS. 
 
 Like the julienne, cullis of roots, 
 purees of lentils, carrots, onions, etc., 
 well prepared, furnish excellent soups in 
 a moment with the greatest economy. 
 
 All the meals, such as oatmeal, rice, 
 barley, semolina, vermicelli, and gener- 
 ally aU the nourishing and easily di- 
 gested pastes, should be seasoned and 
 prepared, either with or without meat, 
 even with milk, before being subjected 
 to the preserving processes, so as to fa- 
 cilitate their use at sea or to the armies 
 at the time of need. 
 
 TOMATOES. 
 
 I use preserved tomatoes or love ap- 
 ples, for the same pm-pose as in season ; 
 on removal from the bottle they need 
 only to be heated and properly seas- 
 oned. 
 
(82) 
 
 SORKiX. 
 
 As the sorrel preserved by the same 
 processes indicated differs in no way 
 from that in the month of Jime, on re- 
 moving from the vessel, it is used in the 
 same manner as in season. 
 
 MINT. 
 
 As for peppermint and all the plants 
 which can be preserved in branches by 
 the same processes, they may be used in 
 the same manner as herb essences. 
 
 FEUITS. 
 
 The manner of using fruits preserved 
 by the processes indicated, consists, 1st, 
 to put each fruit as it is found in the 
 bottle, in a compotier, without adding 
 sugar to it, because many persons, par- 
 ticularly women, prefer the fruits with 
 their natural juice; these compotes are 
 accompanied by another compotier of 
 syrup of grapes or of powdered sugar 
 for those who like them. I have discov- 
 ered from experiments that the syrup of 
 
(83) 
 grapes preserves the aroma and the 
 acidity of fruits infinitely better than 
 sugar. This is the simplest and most 
 economical style of preparing excellent 
 compotes, a style so much the more con- 
 venient since each one can satisfy his 
 taste for more or less sugar. 2nd, to 
 make sweet compotes, a poimd of pre- 
 served fruit is taken, the kind is imma- 
 terial, which, on taking from the bottle 
 with its juice, is put in a sauce-pan 
 on the stove with four otuices of grape 
 syrup. As soon as it begins to boU, it 
 is taken from the stove, and the scum 
 
 removed by means of a piece of 
 crumpled paper that is applied to the 
 surface. As soon as it is skiouned, the 
 fruit is taken carefully from the syrup 
 so as to put it in a compotier. After 
 having reduced the syrup on the stove 
 to half its volume, it is poured on the 
 fruit. The fruits prepared in this way 
 are sufficiently sweet, and also as savory 
 as a fresh compote made in season. 
 
(84) 
 COMPOTES WITH BEANDY. 
 
 3rd. For the compotes made with 
 .brandy, which may be of cherries, apri- 
 cots, greengages, pears, peaches, Mira- 
 belle plums, etc., a pound of fruit with 
 juice, which is taken indiscriminately, is 
 put in a sauce-pan on the stove with a 
 quarter-pound of grape syrup. When 
 about to boU, it is skimmed, after which 
 the fruit is taken carefully out of the 
 syrup and put in a vessel; the syrup is 
 left on the stove until it is reduced a 
 quarter of its volume; afterwards it is 
 taken from the stove, so as to add to it a 
 glass of good brandy ; and, after having 
 been well stirred, the hot syrup is poured 
 over the fruit in the vessel, which is care- 
 fully closed, so that the fruit is pene- 
 trated better by the syrup, etc. 
 
 One may do likewise with the pre- 
 served pear and peach of the cooked 
 compotes, as well as compotes with Bur- 
 gundy wine, with cinnamon, etc. 
 
(85) 
 
 MARMALADES. 
 
 4th. I make marmalade from apri- 
 cots, peaches, greengages, and Mira- 
 belle plimis by the following process. 
 For a poimd of preserved fruit, a half 
 pomid of grape syrup is used. They 
 are cooked over a strong fire, and care- 
 fully stirred with a spatula so as to avoid 
 burning the fruit; when the marmalade 
 is cooked to a light consistence, it is re- 
 moved, because the preserves cooked the 
 least are always the best. As the pre- 
 served fruits give one the facUity for 
 making preserves in proportion only to 
 one's needs, in cooking them lightly, one 
 can always have excellent fresh pre- 
 serves. 
 
 CUERANT JELLY. 
 
 The way to make currant jelly with 
 the juice of preserved fruit is very sim- 
 ple ; a half pound of sugar is used for a 
 poimd of currant juice (which should be 
 
(86) 
 flavored with a little strawberry) . After 
 having clarified and cooked the sugar to 
 the break, the cxirrant is put in, and is 
 given three or four boilings; when it 
 falls from the skimmer in small sheets 
 no larger than a lentil, it is taken from 
 the stove to put it in jars, etc. 
 
 CUERANT SYEUP. 
 
 To make currant syrup the juice is 
 heated close to boiling, and removed to 
 strain it. By this means it is obtained 
 clear and deprived of the mucilage. As 
 soon as it is strained, a half pound of 
 grape syrup is added for each poimd of 
 fruit, the whole put on the stove. When 
 it is cooked to the consistence of a light 
 syrup, it is taken off the stove so as to 
 put it in bottles when it is cooled. 
 
 There is a simpler and more economi- 
 cal way to make use, not only of currant 
 juice but of those of all fruits from 
 which acid beverages may be made. This 
 consists simply in putting a tablespoon 
 of the juice of currant or any other hot- 
 
(87) 
 tied preserve into a glass of water 
 slightly sweetened with grape sjrrup. 
 This is easy to have at all times in one's 
 own home or to procure at little ex- 
 pense some of these juices thus pre- 
 served; it is in this way that for fifteen 
 years we serve currant juice at home, 
 and oftener we prepare this lemonade 
 without sugar or syrup. 
 
 ICES. 
 
 I have prepared and made ices from 
 currants, raspherries, apricots, and 
 peaches, as well as from strawberries, 
 preserved as indicated, by the method 
 employed in the season for these fruits. 
 
 I have made these experiments to 
 forestall any further question of grape 
 syrup, maintaining that this product, 
 the slightly sour or acid grape syrup, 
 brought to perfection at the manufac- 
 tory of M. Privat, at Meze, will replace, 
 shortly and with advantage, cane sugar 
 in the preparation of fruit ices. 
 
(88) 
 As I have already observed, the grape 
 syrup preserves the aroma of all fruits 
 better than cane sugar. The sugar 
 masks the taste of the fruits to such an 
 extent that one is obliged to add some 
 lemon juice to all fruit ices, so as to 
 again restore the aroma; but if the 
 slightly sour grape syrup be used, one 
 can dispense with lemons and the fruit 
 ices are much mellower. The sweet 
 grape syrup may be used with success 
 with aU the cream ices. 
 
 LIQUEURS. 
 
 I have made liqueurs and ratafias 
 with the juices of preserved fruits and 
 sweetened with grape syrup. These 
 preparations yield nothing to the best 
 household hqueurs. 
 
 The simple and easy means that I in- 
 dicate for preparing all the preserved 
 fruits for daily use prove conclusively 
 that this method, as certain as it is use- 
 ful, will occasion the greatest economy 
 in the consumption of cane sugar. The 
 
(89) 
 consumers, and the chefs particularly, 
 who through circumstances are obliged 
 during the summer to start with a con- 
 siderable stock of it for syrups, pre- 
 serves, and liqueurs, as well as for 
 pharmaceutical articles, through this 
 foreign commodity may dispense with 
 it; in short it will suffice for them to 
 provide their stock of fruits during the 
 harvest, and to preserve them by this 
 new method, so as to provide sugar only 
 in proportion to their needs. It will 
 result in that the major portion of all 
 the fruits thus preserved will be con- 
 sumed without, or with very little 
 sugar; that a great deal wiQ be pre- 
 pared with grape syrup, and that only 
 for indispensable articles, and for 
 satisfying habitual consumers, as well as 
 a luxury for some tables, that the cane 
 sugar will be employed. 
 
 It will follow from this that in a good 
 year it will not be necessary to provide 
 a stock of sugar for the time of scarcity, 
 and that one will obtain with little ex- 
 
(90) 
 pense the same pleasure with fruits pre- 
 served for two, three, and four years, as 
 in the years of abundance. 
 
 CHESTNUTS. 
 
 On taking the preserved chestnuts 
 from the vessel they are plunged into 
 fresh water, powdered with a little fine 
 salt, and roasted in the frying pan over 
 a bright fire. In this way, they are ex- 
 cellent ; one may dispense with the wet- 
 ting, but it is always necessary that they 
 be roasted over a bright fire. 
 
 The preserved truffles are employed 
 in the same way and for the same pur- 
 poses, as when they have been freshly 
 gathered, and also mushrooms. 
 
 GRAPE MUST. 
 
 When I made my first experiments 
 on preserving grape must in its fresh 
 state, instruction upon the means of 
 making up the deficiency of sugar in 
 the principal things ^ in which use is made 
 
(91) 
 of it in medicine and in domestic eco- 
 nomy by M. Parmentier was not yet 
 known to me. It is from this valuable 
 source that I have obtained methods for 
 employing in my new experiments two 
 hxmdred bottles of grape must that I had 
 preserved six months before. 
 
 1st, I have made very fine grape 
 syrup by following the processes of M. 
 Parmentier, which I give literally. 
 
 PREPABATION OF GEAPE SYRUP. 
 
 "Twenty-four pints of must are taken 
 and half of it put in a large kettle on the 
 stove, with care to avoid too strong 
 ebullition. New liquor is added in pro- 
 portion to the amount evaporated as it is 
 skimmed and stirred to increase evapo- 
 ration. When the whole of the must is 
 added, the liquid is skimmed and taken 
 ^rom the stove, and there is added to it 
 either washed ashes, enclosed in a little 
 bag, whiting, or chalk reduced to 
 powder and diluted previously with a 
 little must, until there is no longer effer- 
 
(92) 
 vescence, or a kind of bubbling in the 
 liquor, which should be stirred. By this 
 means the acid contained in the grapes 
 is separated or neutralized; one is as- 
 sured that the liquor has no more acid 
 when the blue paper which is dipped in 
 it is not colored red. Then the kettle is 
 replaced on the stove, after having had 
 two beaten eggs put in it and left an 
 instant to settle. The liquor is filtered 
 through woolen cloth fastened to a 
 wooden frame, twelve to fifteen inches 
 square, in a manner jto occupy little 
 room; it is boiled anew to continue the 
 evaporation. 
 
 So as to know if the syrup be cooked, 
 it is let fall from a spoon on a plate ; if 
 the drop falls without breaking and 
 spreading out, or if in separating in two 
 the parts only draw near lengthwise, 
 then one judges that it has the required 
 consistence. 
 
 It is poured into an unglazed fearthen- 
 ware vessel, and after it has cooled per- 
 fectly, is distributed into bottles of aver- 
 
(93) 
 age capacity, cleaned, dried, properly 
 corked, and carried to the cellar. It is 
 necessary that a bottle once opened 
 should have the neck reversed each time 
 that one is served from it, and that it 
 should not remain a long time without 
 emptying. 
 
 It is hardly possible to determine pre- 
 cisely the quantity of chalk or ashes that 
 it is necessary to employ, it is less neces- 
 sary in the south than in the north, but 
 in any case, the excess should not cause 
 injury, since it remains on the filter 
 mixed with the other insoluble salts and 
 the scum. 
 
 If in view of preserving these syrups 
 for a longer time, the cooking is carried 
 too far, one may be deceived because it 
 Avill not be long in crystallizing in the 
 bottom of the bottles and not be thin; 
 on the contrary, if it is not evaporated 
 sufficiently, it wlQ ferment soon; a 
 thrifty housekeeper will not make these 
 sjTups twice without understanding the 
 degree of cooking necessary to give 
 
(94) 
 them, better than one could indicate to 
 . her, the point at which it is advisable 
 that it should be arrested." 
 
 SYBUPS AND RATAFIAS. 
 
 It is with this same syrup that I have 
 prepared compotes, preserves, syrups, 
 and acid beverages, as well as liqueurs 
 and ratafias from all the fruits of which 
 I have spoken. 
 
 2d. I have made syrup with the same 
 must and by the same processes, except 
 that I have only cooked the ratafia light- 
 ly, that is to say, a foiirth or less than 
 the syrup, desiring to be assured if by 
 means of the application of the heat of 
 the water-bath by the indicated pro- 
 cesses it would be preserved. The syrup, 
 when cooled, I have put into three half 
 liter bottles, one full and the two others 
 having a space of a quarter and a half; 
 I have closed, tied, etc., and sub- 
 jected them in the water-bath to boiling 
 only, etc. I have not noticed any differ- 
 ence in the full bottle from those partly 
 
(95) 
 empty, and all three are preserved per- 
 fectly. 
 
 3d. I have taken six pints of pre- 
 served grape must to which has been 
 added two pints of good old brandy, 
 of twenty-two degrees, with two pounds 
 of grape syrup that I had prepared. 
 This preparation, mixed well, has served 
 to make f oiu* different liqueurs by means 
 of infusions of apricot stones, mint, 
 orange flower, and anise seed that had 
 been [prepared in advance; these 
 liqueurs, well filtered, have been found 
 very good and sweet enough. 
 
 4th. I have taken two bottles of pre- 
 served must, opened, and transferred the 
 musii to two other clean bottles, that 
 have been immediately closed and tied; 
 these two bottles were left upright for 
 ten days ; after this interval, the liqueur 
 blew the cork out like the best cham- 
 pagne, and effervesced similarly. 
 
 5th. I have repeated this last experi- 
 ment in the same manner. After twelve 
 
(96) 
 to fifteen days, not noting any appear- 
 ance of fermentation in the bottles, I 
 opened them so as to restore air to them, 
 and put a tablespoonful of raspberry 
 juice into two of them. After having 
 reclosed and tied them, they were left 
 upright again for eight days ; at the end 
 of this time, the white and the red had 
 blown out the cork; they effervesced 
 perfectly and were of very agreeable 
 taste, particularly the red, flavored with 
 the raspberries. 
 
 After the experiments made with the 
 Massy grape, it is more than probable 
 that in the south as well as in good vine- 
 yards, one may obtain infinitely valuable 
 results by making use of this method. 
 One may preserve grape must for sweet 
 syrup in this manner by concentrating 
 at will to the consistence of syrup after 
 having deacidified it for sweet syrup; 
 or if these syrups are concentrated on 
 the stove, to 25, 30, or 33 by aerometer, 
 which degree is immaterial, they may be 
 preserved for many years by submitting 
 them to heat in the water-bath according 
 
(97) 
 to the preparatory processes that I have 
 employed. 
 
 By means of these processes, easy to 
 put in practice, and above all of slight 
 expense in execution, one may obtain 
 syrups clearer, whiter (they might be 
 made of black grapes), and of a franls 
 and free sweetness, devoid of the taste 
 of molasses and of caramel ; this, one has 
 not yet been able to avoid in grape syrup 
 when it is desired to give a degree of 
 cooking suitable for keeping. 
 
 It is in this manner that, preserved in 
 bottles or demijohns of any capacity, 
 this valuable product can be exported to 
 long distances, in all seasons, and come 
 from Bergerac, from Meze, and from all 
 the manufactories of the South, improv- 
 ing the products of our small vineyards, 
 and permitting aU classes of society to 
 enjoy this useful resource. 
 
 From the statement of all the experi- 
 ments, given in detail, it is seen that this 
 new method of preservation is foimded 
 on a unique principle, the application of 
 
(98) 
 heat of suitable degree to various sub- 
 stances after having deprived them as 
 far as possible from contact with air (1 ) . 
 It is not in question here, as in the ex- 
 periments of the chemists of Bordeaux, 
 the destruction of the mass of foods, 
 having on one side the animal jelly and 
 on the other the fiber deprived of all its 
 juice and resembling cooked leather. It 
 is not the question, as with bouHlon tab- 
 lets, of preparing at great expense a 
 
 (1) At the first glance one might believe that 
 a substance, either raw or prepared on the stove, 
 afterwards put in bottles, after haviilg been 
 vacuumized, and closed perfectly, would be pre- 
 served similarly without the application of the 
 heat of the water-bath. This would be a mis- 
 take because all the attempts that I have made, 
 have demonstrated that the two essential factors, 
 the absolute deprivation from contact with the 
 exterior air (that which is found in the interior 
 need not cause anxiety, because it has been ren- 
 dered harmless by the action of the heat) and 
 application of the heat in the water-bath are 
 indispensable to each other for the perfect pres- 
 ervation of foods. 
 
(99) 
 tenacious paste more adapted to de- 
 range the stomach than to fm-nish a 
 healthful food. 
 
 The problem consists in preserving all 
 nutritive substances with their charac- 
 teristic and constituent properties. This 
 is a problem which I have solved, as has 
 been demonstrated by my experiments. 
 
 (1). 
 
 (1) Some distinguished men, but perhaps too 
 bookish in their spirit of system and of preju- 
 dice, have declared against my method, alleging 
 a pretended impossibility. 
 
 Yet, according to the principles of sound phil- 
 osophy is it then so di£Scult to produce proof 
 for the cause of the preservation of foods by 
 my process? Cannot one see that the applica- 
 tion of heat in the water-bath should slowly 
 work a fusion of the constituent and ferment- 
 able principles, so that there is no longer any 
 agent there of the fermentation that dominated ; 
 this predominance is an essential condition in 
 order that the fermentation take place at least 
 with a certain promptitude. The air, without 
 which there is no fermentation, being excluded. 
 
(100) 
 It is to the solution of this problem 
 that I have given twenty years of work 
 
 there are two essential causes which can render 
 proof of the success of my method; the theory 
 of which naturally appears the result from the 
 means put in practise. 
 
 In short, if one brings together all the known 
 methods, all the experiments and the observa- 
 tions which have been made in ancient and 
 modern times upon the means of preserving 
 foods, one will everywhere recognize the heat as 
 the principal agent that directs, it may be hard- 
 ening, it may be the preservation of vegetable 
 and animal products. 
 
 Fabroni has proved that heat applied to grape 
 must destroys the ferment of this vegeto-animal, 
 which is pre-eminently the leaven. Thenard has 
 made similar experiments upon currants, cher- 
 ries, and other fruits. The heat experiments of 
 Vilaris and of M. Cazales, learned chemists of 
 Bordeaux, which have been made in desiccating 
 meats by means of stoves, proved likewise that 
 the application of heat destroys the agents of 
 putrefaction. 
 
 Desiccation, boiling, evaporation, as well a« 
 
(101) 
 and thought as well as my fortime. 
 Blessed already in being able to serve 
 my fellow-citizens and humanity I rely 
 on the justice, generosity, and intelli- 
 gence of a wise government, that never 
 ceases to encourage and protect all use- 
 ful discoveries. It wSll, be seen that 
 the author of this method of preserva- 
 tion wiU not be able to obtain from 
 the discovery even recompense for his 
 pains and expenses. The greatest im- 
 portance, ia short, of this process, its 
 principal use is for the needs of 
 civil and mihtary hospitals, and parti- 
 cularly for those of the navy. It is in 
 these administrations that I can find 
 employment for my methods in a man- 
 ner useful to the state, as well as the 
 just reward for my labor. I await the 
 gracious inspection of the Ministry, and 
 my hopes wUl not be deceived. 
 
 caustic or savory substances that are employed 
 for the preservation of alimentary products 
 serve to prove that the heat produces similar 
 effects, etc. 
 
(102) 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The bottles and other vessels of any- 
 capacity, suitable for the preservation 
 of foods, require only a small number to 
 be made at one time. One can always 
 use them anew, provided they be rinsed 
 as soon as emptied. Good cork, twine, 
 and wire, are not a large expense. As 
 soon as this method becomes known, 
 one will find suitable bottles and vessels 
 at crockery-ware dealers, corks of all 
 sizes and squeezed in the vise will be fur- 
 nished by the cork-cutters, as well as the 
 prepared wire. It is always prudent to 
 prociu-e the corks before the bottles so 
 as to supply oneself with those that have 
 openings proportionate to the size of 
 the stoppers that one has; because it 
 may happen, as I have f oimd often, that 
 one may not be able to find corks of 
 the desired sizes. 
 
 The glass-works of Garre, of Seves, 
 and of Premontres near Coucy-le-Cha- 
 teau, are already manufacturing bottles 
 
(103) 
 and jars necessary; to the method of 
 preservation. The last, which has fur- 
 nished them to me for four years, is the 
 one Avith which I am best satisfied. The 
 means of properly closing depends on a 
 little practise only ; to close a dozen bot- 
 tles with confidence and precision will 
 suffice to familiarize one with the man- 
 ner, more particularly with the glass. 
 Everywhere and every day, wines, li- 
 queiu-s, etc., are put in bottles to voyage 
 by lanc^ and sea to the most distant 
 regions; even glass demijohns of forty 
 and eighty liters capacity, full of oil of 
 vitriol and other liquids, have made voy- 
 ages. It will be the same with all ani- 
 mal and vegetable products preserved 
 in bottles or other glass vessels when 
 one acquires the habit of using the nec- 
 essary care and precautions. It is what 
 one needs most. How much valuable 
 liqueurs and other valuable substances 
 should be better preserved and which 
 are often lost or altered for the want of 
 having been properly corked ! 
 
 No one will doubt after all the ex- 
 
(104) 
 periments which I give in detail that 
 the putting in practise of this new meth- 
 od which, as one can judge for himself, 
 unites to the greatest economy a degree 
 of perfection hitherto unhoped for, and 
 which procures the following advan- 
 tages : 
 
 1st. That of considerably diminish- 
 ing the consumption of cane sugar and 
 of extending to the greatest extent the 
 manufacture of grape syrup. 
 
 2d. That of preserving for use 
 everywhere and in aU seasons, food pro- 
 ducts, of medicaments, of which there 
 wiU be occasions of great abundance in 
 certain seasons or in various countries; 
 substances which are wasted or sold at 
 low price, whereas in other circumstances 
 they double and quadruple in value, and 
 it is even impossible to get them at any 
 price; such are, among others, butter 
 and eggs. 
 
 3d. That of procuring for the civil 
 and military hospitals, likewise for the 
 
(105) 
 army, the most valuable assistance of 
 which the details are umiecessary. But 
 the greatest advantage of this method 
 consists particularly in its application 
 to the uses of the navy; for long voy- 
 ages it wiU furnish fresh and whole- 
 some nourishment on board the vessels 
 of His Majesty, with a saving of more 
 than fifty per cent. The sailors, in their 
 illness, will have broth and various acid 
 beverages, vegetables, fruits, in a word, 
 they will be able to enjoy a multitude of 
 foods and medicaments which alone will 
 often suffice to prevent or to cure the 
 diseases which are contracted at sea, and 
 principally and most dreaded of all, 
 scurvy. These advantages are well 
 worthy of fixing the attention, when one 
 reflects that the salted provisions, and 
 above all their poor quality, have done 
 more to destroy men than shipwreck and 
 the fury of combat. 
 
 4th. The physician wiU find in this 
 method the means of relieving humanity, 
 by the readiness in finding everywhere, 
 and in aU seasons, the animal substances 
 
(106) 
 and all the vegetables as well as their 
 juices, preserved with all their qualities 
 and natural virtues; through the same 
 means he will obtain infinitely valuable 
 assistance in the products of remote re- 
 gions preserved in all their freshness. 
 
 5th. From this method a new branch 
 of industry wUl result relative to the 
 productions of France, through the ex- 
 portation and importation into the in- 
 terior and to foreign parts, of the com- 
 modities of which nature has favored the 
 different coimtries. 
 
 6th. This method will facilitate the 
 exportation of the wines from many 
 vineyards. In fact, the wines which 
 are scarcely able to hold up for a year, 
 and, yet without changing, may be sent 
 to foreign lands and be preserved many 
 years. 
 
 In short, one such invention ought to 
 enrich the domain of chemistry, and 
 should become a general benefit to all 
 nations that derive from it the most 
 valuable results. 
 
(107) 
 So many benefits and an infinity of 
 others, which present themselves to the 
 imagination of the reader, produced by 
 one and the same cause only, are a source 
 of wonder. 
 
 END. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Preface VII 
 
 Letter from the Minister of the 
 
 Interior to M. Appert IX 
 
 Declaration from the consult- 
 ing bureau of arts and man- 
 ufactw^es XII 
 
 Letter to General CaffarelUj 
 Naval Prefect at Brest, by 
 board of health XII 
 
 Letter from the Secretary of 
 the Society for Encourage- 
 ment to M. Appert XIV 
 
 Extract of the verbal-trial from 
 the sitting of the Council of 
 Administration, brought in 
 the name of the special com- 
 mission by M. Bouriatj upon 
 the animal and vegetable sub- 
 
(110) 
 stances preserved by M. Ap- 
 
 pert XVII 
 
 The art of preserying animal and 
 
 vegetable substances 1 
 
 Description of the laboratories and 
 
 workshops 9 
 
 Bottles and vessels 15 
 
 Stoppers 16 
 
 Closing 18 
 
 Means of distinguishing the bottles 
 or vessels which risk being dam- 
 aged 80 
 
 DESCRIPTION or THE PROCESSES OF 
 
 M. Appert. 
 
 Pot-au-feu 83 
 
 Consomme 35 
 
 Bouillon or pectoral jelly 37 
 
 Filet of beef J mutton^ fowl, and 
 
 young partridges 37 
 
 Fresh eggs 40 
 
 Milk ..\ 42 
 
 Cream 44 
 
 Whey 44 
 
 Vegetables 45 
 
 Small green peas 46 
 
(Ill) 
 
 Asparagus 47 
 
 Small broad beans 48 
 
 Shelled broad beans 49 
 
 French beans 49 
 
 White kidney beans 50 
 
 Artichokes^ whole 50 
 
 Artichokes J in quarters 50 
 
 Cauliflower 51 
 
 Sorrel 52 
 
 Spinach and chicory 53 
 
 Julienne 55 
 
 Cullis of roots 56 
 
 Tomatoes or love apples 56 
 
 Kitchen and medicinal plants 57 
 
 Essences of herbs 59 
 
 Fruits and their juices 59 
 
 Currants J red and white, in clusters . 60 
 
 Currants, red and white, picked. ... 61 
 Cherries, raspberries, mulberries, 
 
 and black currants 61 
 
 Juice of red currants 61 
 
 Strawberries 62 
 
 Apricots 63 
 
 Peaches 64 
 
 Nectarines 65 
 
 Greengages and Mirabelle plums . . 65 
 
(112) 
 
 Pears of all kinds 66 
 
 Chestnuts 67 
 
 Truffles 67 
 
 Mushrooms 68 
 
 Grape must or sweet wine 68 
 
 Mannee of using the peepaeed 
 
 AND PEESEEYED SUBSTANCES 70 
 
 Meats, game, fowl, fish 70 
 
 Jelly from meat and fowl 73 
 
 Broth or pectoral jelly 73 
 
 Milk and cream 74 
 
 Vegetables 74 
 
 White kidney beans 75 
 
 French beans 76 
 
 Small green peas 76 
 
 Broad beans 79 
 
 Chicory and spinach 80 
 
 Julienne 80 
 
 Cullis of roots 81 
 
 Tomatoes 81 
 
 Sorrel 82 
 
 Mint 82 
 
 Stewed fruits 82 
 
 Stewed with brandy 84 
 
 Marmalades 85 
 
 Currant jelly 85 
 
(113) 
 
 Currant syrup 86 
 
 Ices 87 
 
 Liqueurs 88 
 
 Chestnuts 90 
 
 Grape must 90 
 
 Preparation of grape syrup by M. 
 
 Parmentier 91 
 
 Syrups and ratafias 94 
 
 General observations 102 
 
 END or THE TABLE. 
 
^mm 
 
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