■C'H ■■■'■■■■■HHHIHi 
 JH m 
 
 dOQD 
 
 m 
 
 1 
 
ALBERT R. MANN 
 LIBRARY 
 
 New York State Colleges 
 
 OF 
 
 Agriculture and Home Economics 
 
 AT 
 
 Cornell University 
 
Cornell University Library 
 TX 715.M17 
 
 Good housekeeping family <='">^^^{l| - 
 3 1924 000 711 865 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis bool< is in 
 tlie Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000711865 
 
Good Housekecpine Librar}/ Number Three 
 
 Good Housekeeping 
 
 Famfly 
 
 Cook Book 
 
 [Uniform with the Good Housekeeping Everyday 
 Cook Book, but entirely distinct in subject matter] 
 
 ^^5 
 
 A rranged by 
 
 MILDRED MADDOCKS 
 
 Colinaiy Editor of Good Housekeeping; 
 
 New York Springfield, Mass Chicago, lU 
 
 The Phelps Publishing Co 
 
 1909 
 
329073 
 
 COPYKIGHT 1909 
 
 by 
 
 THE PHELPS PUBLISHING CO. 
 
Introduction 
 
 ^?rHIS volume, uniform in size and 
 ^l style with the Good Housekeeping 
 ^^ Everyday Cook Book, is an en- 
 tirely new work from cover to cover, con- 
 taining no material which is to be found 
 in that very useful and successful book, 
 which has taken its place as a household 
 necessity throughout the United States; 
 rather, supplementing that, the two em- 
 bodying the cream of the cookery printed 
 in the Good Housekeeping magazine in 
 the past six years. 
 
 Gopd Housekeeping recipes have in all 
 instances the test of experience,, being 
 accepted and printed only after their 
 working value has been duly established 
 by the originators or contributors. Fur- 
 thermore, possible defects in the word- 
 ing of a recipe are promptly reported by 
 readers and corrected by the Editors in 
 the preparation of the book; this, how- 
 ever, being necessary in but few in- 
 stances. 
 
 Several distinctive features of the 
 Good Housekeeping Family Cook Book 
 are worthy of especial attention. The 
 illustrations make clear the more elabo- 
 rate methods, as pastry and croquette 
 making. The range of subjects has been 
 enlarged. In addition to those found 
 in the Everyday Cook Book, chapters are 
 devoted to chafing-dish cookery, candy- 
 making and preserving. The process in 
 each recipe is complete, simple and clear, 
 furnishing a working basis to the inex- 
 perienced. Logical grouping and an 
 alphabetical index make the desired 
 recipe instantly available. 
 
 The memorandum feature which 
 proved so popular in the Everyday Cook 
 Book is retained in this, that favorite 
 recipes from the pages of the magazine 
 may be preserved from month to month. 
 The Good Housekeeping Family Cook 
 Book represents the latest, most thor- 
 oughly tested and highly approved exper- 
 ience of hundreds of the best profes- 
 sional and home cooks throughout the 
 American continent. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 General Information ... 30 
 
 Beverages 40 
 
 Cereals 46 
 
 Breads and Biscuits .... 48 
 Waffles and Griddle Cakes . . 60 
 
 Eggs 62 
 
 Soups with Stock .... 66 
 
 Soups without Stock . . .70 
 
 Fish 78 
 
 Meat 88 
 
 Meat and Fish Sauces . . . 110 
 
 Pudding Sauces 118 
 
 Vegetables 122 
 
 Salads 140 
 
 Entrees 154 
 
 Puddings "... 180 
 
 Cold Desserts 194 
 
 Ices and Frozen Desserts . . . 214 
 
 Pastry 234 
 
 Cakes and Cookies 252 
 
 Sandwiches and Canapes . . 266 
 Fruits and Preserving . . . 278 
 
 Candies 292 
 
 Chafing-dish Recipes .... 300 
 Cookery for the Sick .... 310 
 
Illustrations 
 
I 
 
 tc 
 
 )J 
 
 o 
 « 
 
 W 
 o 
 o 
 « 
 
 K 
 o 
 o 
 
 a 
 
 n 
 
 <! 
 n 
 
1 
 
 CO 
 
 l-l 
 
 Oh 
 
 <! 
 
 W 
 
I 
 
 Q 
 ■X 
 
 n 
 o 
 
 O 
 
 K 
 o 
 
 H 
 
w. 
 u 
 w 
 
 E 
 
 P 
 
 s 
 
 2 
 
 « 
 
 w 
 p 
 p 
 ►J 
 o 
 K 
 
 p 
 
 o 
 P 
 W 
 
■< 
 
 a 
 < 
 
 H 
 W 
 K 
 
 q 
 
« 
 
 a 
 m 
 
 Ph 
 
 ■< 
 w 
 
 to 
 H 
 
 X 
 
 5 
 s 
 o 
 
 12; 
 
 H 
 
o 
 
 
a 
 
 6-> 
 
 H 
 
 O 
 « 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 K 
 
 a 
 
 > 
 
 O 
 
 o 
 

 
0! 
 12! 
 
 a 
 a 
 & 
 
 Hi 
 
 I 
 
 <! 
 
W 
 ■< 
 n 
 
 K 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 [0 
 
 
xxvii 
 
Q 
 
 o 
 
 < 
 
 'A 
 
 CO 
 
 M 
 
 o 
 
 K 
 
 
Methods and Recipes 
 
General Information 
 
 The food problem is one of the most 
 difficult that the housekeeper has to 
 meet. Today it means a study of bal- 
 anced rations and proportions, as well 
 as the cost and nutritive value of foods. 
 It means the varying of these propor- 
 tions to suit the needs of the old, the 
 young, the laborer and the brain worker. 
 It means, moreover, the combining and 
 cooking of these materials in such fash- 
 ion as to make them not alone balanced 
 and nutritious, but pleasing and pala- 
 table as well. 
 
 What makes a food 
 
 All foods are made up of various pro- 
 portions of five chemical compounds 
 often called food principles. These are 
 proteid, carbohydrates, fats, mineral 
 matter and water. 
 
 Proteid is a class name for a ' large 
 number of allied compounds which have 
 the definite work of both building tissue 
 and furnishing energy to the body. 
 Proteid is a peculiar, semi-liquid sub- 
 stance, of a straw-color, which has the 
 property of 'turning opaque white, and 
 solidifying in hot water. A familiar il- 
 lustration of one of the purest forms is 
 the white of an egg. Its behavior with 
 hot water is familiar to all. 
 
 The carbohydrates include the starches 
 and sugars, and their long name simply 
 means that they are composed of just 
 three simple materials or elements — 
 carbon, oxygen and hydrogen. There 
 are many starches, but each kind is 
 made up of an insoluble white grain 
 inclosed in a very thin envelope of wood 
 fiber. When this grain is cooked in 
 boiling hot water the envelope softens,, 
 swells, and breaks, expelling the granular 
 starch, which becomes transparent and 
 soluble in the hot liquid. It is for this 
 reason that starch should alwp.ys be 
 thoroughly cooked. Both starches and 
 sugars are sources of energy. Pats or 
 oils furnish heat and energy. 
 
 There is no more important food nu- 
 trient than water. This is a chemical 
 compound containing only the two ele- 
 ments, hydrogen and oxygen. The fact 
 that about three-fourths of the body, 
 v^eight is due to water makes its im- 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION 31 
 
 portance in the diet at once apparent, 
 Few people drink enough. It is a con- 
 servative estimate that at least a quart 
 a day should be taken as a beverage. 
 
 The uses of the mineral salts are also 
 many. They are found in all the digest- 
 ive fluids of the body and without their 
 presence absorption could not take place, 
 
 For each of the familiar combina- 
 tions of foods there is a scientific explan- 
 ation. The practice of baking pork 
 with beans undoubtedly rose from the 
 unconscious desire to balance the ration. 
 The beans rich in carbohydrates and 
 proteids lacked fat which the pork sup- 
 plied. The corn bread, bacon and peas 
 in the same way furnish the southern 
 negro with a balanced if not easily di- 
 gested ration. A meal may be perfectly 
 well balanced and yet not be dietetically 
 correct. 
 
 Food for indoor and outdoor workers 
 
 There are two great classes of workers, 
 both needing a balanced ration but of a 
 totally different kind. Roughly this 
 balance should mean about three and 
 one-half ounces each of proteids and fats 
 with eleven ounces of carbohydrates. 
 The first division includes those who 
 engage in hard, muscular, outdoor 
 work; the second includes those who 
 are tied to a desk in a h&ted oifice, in 
 school or in shop. The first, or out-of- 
 door worker, with plenty of oxygen at 
 hand and no hard brain labor, can digest 
 more food and food difficult of digestion, 
 because his blood supply is not called 
 away from the digestive organs to the 
 brain. Moreover, he needs the increased 
 energy which is to be gotten from the 
 increased supply, providing always he 
 can digest it. A hearty breakfast, a 
 hearty dinner in the middle of the day 
 and a light supper at night is the best 
 arrangement for this class of workers. 
 
 If of sedentary habits, a light break- 
 fast, a light luncheon and dinner at 
 night is usually the best arrangement 
 for an adult family. A young_ child 
 should have his heartiest meal in the 
 middle of the day. 
 
 Fruits and green vegetables are made 
 up almost entirely of water, or from SO 
 to 90 per cent, with indigestible fiber, 
 some sugar, mineral matter, fruit or 
 vegetable acids and flavoring oils. Al- 
 though low in nutritive value, they serve 
 
32 GENERAL INFORMATION 
 
 two important uses in the dietary — they 
 furnish bulk and ballast, their indi- 
 gestible residue acting as a stimulus 
 to intestinal movements, and they are a 
 valuable source of mineral salts. A de- 
 ficiency of green vegetables will cause 
 eczema and scurvy. Again, they increase 
 the palatability of a meal for most 
 people, and indirectly aid nutrition, as 
 the senses of sight, taste and smell have 
 a definite influence on the digestive 
 functions. 
 
 The most readily available sources of 
 proteid supply are the legumes, or beans 
 and peas, corn meal, cheese, milk, figs 
 and dates, eggs, nuts and flesh foods. 
 These are arranged in the order of their 
 cheapness. In general it will be seen 
 that the vegetables are the cEeapest 
 Sources of supply. 
 
 The grains, root vegetables and fruits 
 furnish most of the carbohydrate mate- 
 rial. 
 
 Fats are found in flesh foods, nuts, 
 the yolk of egg, cheese, butter and olives. 
 
 The most common method of measur- 
 ing the nutritive value of foods has been 
 by means of their burning or heat-givmg 
 power. A unit of measurement, the 
 calorie, was adopted for this purpose. 
 The actual amount of heat necessary to 
 raise a pound of water, practically a 
 pint, four degtees Fahrenheit, is called 
 the large calorie or unit of measurement. 
 The number of degrees a given weight 
 of food will raise the temperature is a 
 fair index to its fuel value outside the 
 body. But this method alone should 
 not be relied upon as the heat and 
 energy evolved within the body may be 
 quite different. It has, however, a dis- 
 tinct value in affording a means of com- 
 parison of various foods, and in giving a 
 general idea of their value. 
 
 The coal range 
 
 In selecting a coal range, the essen- 
 tial qualifications may be summarized as 
 follows : Checks and dampers so ar- 
 ranged that they may be easily con- 
 trolled, increasing and decreasing the 
 heat at will; the oven space ample, with 
 circulation of heated air to make the 
 oven as hot on the bottom as on the top ; 
 a fire box large enough to hold coal to 
 the depth of seven inches; an arrange- 
 ment for the water back that shall in- 
 sure an abundant, clean supply of hot 
 water; a good warming oven; a duplex 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION 
 
 33 
 
 grate, and an ash pan guarded with 
 chutes so that the ashes will fall directly 
 into the pan and not outside. Avoid 
 over-ornamentation in nickel, which col- 
 lects dust. 
 
 Properly cared for, a range should last 
 from fifteen to twenty-five years, but it 
 can be put out of commission in a 
 much shorter time through carelessness 
 or neglect. Most good housekeepers 
 think there is less wear and tear on the 
 stove to keep the range fire over night, 
 especially in winter. 
 
 To build and keep a fire 
 
 In making a fire, be sure first that the 
 grate is clean and the ash pan emptied 
 so that there will be a free circulation 
 of air. Place first a layer of shavings 
 
 V_ 
 
 \!: 
 
 Lj 
 
 FLUE 
 
 Figure 1. niiistratlng 
 
 the operation of 
 
 the draft 
 
 .CHIMNEY DAMPER. 
 
 K_ 
 
 . DAMPER 
 
 """^""1 GRATE 
 ^ 
 
 or crumpled newspaper, for printers' ink 
 is inflammable. Next to this foundation 
 place fine pine splinters or kindling, with 
 dried pieces of orange peel, peach pits 
 or corncobs that you may happen -to 
 have. Next a layer, of larger wood, 
 reaching ends and sides. This helps the 
 coal to kindle, and a stronger, more rapid 
 blaze is obtained by its use. Light the 
 paper from beneath and as soon as thor- 
 oughly kindled, put on a sprinkling of 
 coal, opening the direct chimney and 
 oven drafts. As the wood burns away, 
 
34 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION 
 
 add enough, more coal to keep even with 
 the fire brides, but never over. 
 
 To keep a brisk fire all day, it ia better 
 to add a sprinkling of coal often, rather 
 than to let it burn nearly out and then 
 add a large quantity. 
 
 At night shake the fire partially clear 
 of ashes, then put on coal. After the 
 blue flame point has passed, close or 
 nearly close the drafts, and open the 
 little sliding door that lets cold air 
 over the fire box. If conditions allow, 
 leave the window down to let out any 
 gas that may escape. Close the doors 
 leading from the kitchen to the other 
 rooms. In the morning, before shaking 
 down the fire, put on a little wood and 
 a sprinkling of coal, then shake and 
 open drafts. 
 
 Don'ts from a stove repairer 
 
 Don't heat a stove rapidly the first 
 time. 
 
 Don't pile the coal above the top of 
 the fire box, nor allow the top of the 
 stove to get red-hot. It warps and cracks 
 the covers. 
 
 Figure 2. The oven damper open, the bot air clrculat 
 tag. arouud the oven 
 
 Don't let your grate get clogged. 
 Shake often and keep free from cinders 
 and ashes. 
 
 Don't let ashes remain in the ash pan. 
 They absorb the heat, cool the oven and 
 check the draft. 
 
 Don't let clinkers remain fastened to 
 the fire box. If the box is brick-lined, 
 drop an oyster shell in the fire occasion- 
 aUy, when burning briskly, and the shell 
 will clean off the brick. 
 
 Don't rush the range with the oven 
 draft open. You use too much fuel and 
 burn out the range too fast. 
 
 Don't let the smoke draft stand open, 
 except when fresh coal is put on. Heat 
 that goes up the chimney is so much 
 good money burned. 
 
GENERAL INFOKMATION 
 
 35 
 
 Don't bum wet garbage in the stove. 
 D*y it first. Otherwise, steam is gener- 
 ated and the moisture will injure the 
 fire box. 
 
 Don't set leaky vessels or spill cold 
 water on the range. The cold coming 
 in contact with the heated metal will 
 crack it. To get spdts off when there 
 has been a bad "spill over," cool the lids 
 by changing them, or putting on coal. 
 Clean with paper and finish with a 
 scraper. 
 
 Don't let the reservoir covers stand 
 open, as it rusts the iron and strains the 
 hinges. 
 
 Don't let soot accumulate in the flue. 
 Scrape off all soot that hangs to the 
 oven bottom. Pull all soot toward you 
 and be careful not to push it back into 
 the flue. 
 
 The gas range 
 
 In buying a gas stove, ornamentation 
 again should be a minor consideration. 
 Much fretwork is a collector of dust 
 and germs. Blue planished steel is dur- 
 able and easy to ke^p clean. It does 
 
 Figure 3. The airows indicate tbe movement of tbe 
 draft up cbimney, tbe oven damper oloaed 
 
 not rust or discolor. Of distinct advan- 
 tage, also, are strong, steel wire oven 
 racks, that will not break or absorb 
 heat; oven doors, spring poised, that do 
 not open or shut with a jar; interlocking 
 parts that can be removed for cleaning, 
 without displacing screws or bolts; oven 
 and broiler doors, interlined with heavy 
 asbestos or aluminized steel; and legs to 
 raise the range from the floor, high 
 enough to permit sweeping underneath. 
 The best burners are of one piece, 
 obviating lea^ joints, and independ- 
 ently supported, so that they are readily 
 removable for cleaning. Covers, made 
 with reducing rings to accommodate 
 vessels of different sizes, and an arrange- 
 
36 GENERAL INFORMATION 
 
 ment that places oven and broiler on top 
 of the range, doing away with the stoop- 
 ing posture when baking or broiling, are 
 also of great convenience. For the for- 
 getful one there is now a patented safety 
 lighter, warranted to insure against ac- 
 cident from explosion. The cocks are 
 arranged with valves, by which the sup- 
 ply of oxygen may be regulated. Among 
 the axioms which might be hung beside 
 the range with advantage to the cook 
 and the gas bill are these: 
 
 Matches are cheaper than gas. 
 
 Never light a top burner until you 
 are ready to use it. It gives the maxi- 
 mum of heat when first lighted. 
 
 Turn ofi a burner as soon as you have 
 finished. 
 
 In using the oven or broiler, light 
 both burners a few moments before you 
 are ready to bake or broil. 
 
 Turn off the oven burners a few mo- 
 ments before the cooking is finished, as 
 the heat is retained in the oven several 
 minutes after the burners are turned off. 
 
 Never use a large burner when a small 
 one will do the work. 
 
 Keep your stove clean. Wash top and 
 side pan daily, also the burners, greas- 
 ing the latter slightly. If the burners 
 clog, clean them with a wire. 
 
 Once or twice a week, brush out your 
 oven and if of iron, grease linings and 
 sides with any animal fat that has no 
 salt in it. Black the sides of the stove, 
 if you will, but never the burners, as 
 this would stop a full flow of gas. 
 
 Wipe the nickel daily with a soft cloth, 
 and, if tarnished, clean as you would 
 silver. 
 
 Never let a gas flame burn yellow or 
 with a whistling noise. Turn out and 
 light again, or, if necessary, regulate 
 the supply of air by the valve in the 
 cock until the flame burns blue and the 
 whistling ceases. 
 
 Never light the pilot or gas match 
 without first opening the oven doors. 
 
 Don't forget to put the pilot out when 
 you are through with it. If you are 
 going to leave the range unused for 
 some time, wipe over with lard and 
 cover with carpet or woolen. 
 
 How to measure 
 
 Careful and exact measuring is essen- 
 tial in order to have satisfactory results 
 in cooking. The measurements used in 
 this cook book are level, in every instance 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION 37 
 
 conforming to present cooking school 
 standards. 
 
 In measuring liquids a "cup" is all a 
 cup will hold; flour is sifted once, the 
 cup filled without packing, then leveled 
 with a sharp knife. Butter is packed 
 solid, then leveled. 
 
 Use standard spoons and measuring 
 cups known to contain exactly one-half 
 pint. They should be marked in quar- 
 ters and thirds. 
 
 A tablespoon is measured level, then 
 cut , lengthwise for a half tablespoon; 
 the resulting half is then divided cross- 
 wise for a quarter tablespoon. 
 
 Weights may be translated into their 
 equivalents by the following table : 
 
 Table of weights and measures 
 
 4 saltspoons make 1 teaspoon. 
 
 3 teaspoons make 1 tablespoon. 
 
 4 tablespoons make %, cup or % gill. 
 2 gills make 1 cup. 
 
 2 pints make 1 quart. 
 
 4 quarts make 1 gallon. 
 
 4 cups of flour make 1 pound. 
 
 2 cups of butter make 1 pound. 
 
 2 cups of granulated sugar make 1 
 pound. 
 
 3 cups of meal make 1 pound. 
 
 2 cups of solid meat make 1 pound. 
 
 1 tablespoon of liquid makes % ounce. 
 
 2 tablespoons of butter make 1 ounce. 
 
 4 tablespoons of flour make 1 ounce. 
 
 3 tablespoons of sugar make 1 ounce. 
 
 Modes of cooking 
 
 The common methods of cooking are 
 roasting, broiling, stewing, boiling, 
 braising, sauteing and frying. 
 
 Roasting is really cooking before a 
 clear fire, but the modem oven ventilated 
 and heated by radiation provides a good 
 substitute for the ancient revolving spit. 
 
 In broiling, the food is placed in an 
 piled broiler and cooked over coals, under 
 a gas flame or in an electric broiler. 
 Turn often, every ten counts, at first, that 
 the surface may be seared. Although 
 there is considerable loss of weight in 
 this method, none yields a finer flavor. 
 A makeshift broiling may be accom- 
 plished in a hissing hot unbuttered fry- 
 ing pan. 
 
 Boiling means to immerse the food in 
 water or liquid at a temperature of 212 
 degrees Fahrenheit or the boiling point 
 at normal atmospheric pressure. Sim- 
 mering indicates gentle boiling. In 
 
38 GENERAL INFORMATION 
 
 simmering some portion of the liquid is 
 boiling but in boiling proper every por- 
 tion of the vessel of water has reached 
 the required temperature. 
 
 Stewing implies long cooking at sim- 
 mering point in a small quantity of 
 water or liquid. The aim is to soften 
 the fibers aaid make a rich gravy by ex- 
 tracting material from the food. 
 
 Braising is now very popular and fash- 
 ionable as well, since the attractive cas- 
 seroles have been put on the market. 
 The method implies long, slow cooking 
 in a covered "dish with a small amount of 
 liquid after the surface has first been 
 seared by quiek, dry heat. 
 
 In frying properly, the food is im- 
 mersed in a bath of fat, the temperature 
 varying with the material to be cooked. 
 For croquettes and like codjed foods a 
 small bit of bread must brown in forty 
 counts, while for fritters, doughnuts 
 and all uncooked foods, sixty counts is 
 preferable. 
 
 Manipulation 
 
 To stir is to intimately incorporate 
 materials by means of a circular motion 
 whose radius gradually increases. It 
 is the most common method in use. 
 
 To beat is to incorporate air into the 
 mixture by means of an up and down 
 stroke, combined with the circular mo- 
 tion. 
 
 To cut and fold is a double motion by 
 which the air already beaten in is pre- 
 vented from escaping. Use a silver 
 knife, cut downward with a clean, sharp 
 strdce, then bring the batter at the bot- 
 tom of the mixing bowl up and over, 
 folding it in. Co|itiiiue until the coni- 
 bming process is completed. 
 
 A soft custard is stirred to prevent 
 curdling; the white of an egg is beaten 
 until double in bulk from the entangled 
 air; the flonr for a sponge cake is care- 
 fully cut and folded in to pievent loss of 
 air. 
 
The Recipes 
 
Beverages 
 
 Cocoa 
 
 Boil one and one-half tablespoons of 
 cocoa in one-half cup of water until 
 smooth, glossy and thickened, then add 
 two cups each of milk and water or one 
 quart of milk. Heat but do not allow 
 it to boil again and just before serving 
 beat vigorously with an egg beater. 
 This "milling" improves the texture and 
 brings out the flavor. 
 
 Tea 
 
 Scald an earthen or china teapot. 
 In this place two teaspoons of tea and 
 pour over it a pint of freshly boiling 
 water. Place on the back of range to 
 steep five minutes. 
 
 Iced Tea 
 
 Cool rapidly fresh made tea. Fill the 
 glasses one-half with finely chopped ice, 
 fill up with tea, sweeten with sugar 
 syrup and add a slice of lemon, orange 
 or lime. 
 
 Sugar Syrup 
 
 Boil two cups of sugar with two cups 
 of water ten minutes. Bottle while hot 
 and seal. Use in place of sugar for 
 punches, ices and frozen desserts. 
 
 Coffee 
 
 Mix one cup of coffee with one of 
 cold water, beat together and add six 
 cups of boiling water. Boil three min- 
 utes, stir and add one-fourth cup of 
 very cold water to settle. 
 
 Iced Cocoa 
 
 Make the cocoa a little stronger than 
 usual, and when cool put it in the ice 
 box till thoroughly chilled. Chopped 
 ice may be added. Just before serving 
 add a little vanilla. Serve with sugar 
 and cream. 
 
 BlacJcberry Bounce 
 
 Stew a peck of blackberries, then 
 strain through a flannel bag. To one 
 quart of juice put one pound of sugar. 
 Boil five minutes and skim. When cold 
 put one quart of brandy to four quarts 
 of juice. Spice to taste. 
 
MEMORANDA 41 
 
42 BKVERAGES 
 
 Oinger Gobbler 
 
 Slice into a large mixing bowl one 
 pared cucumber, two oranges and three 
 lemons ; sprinkle with a cup of powdered 
 sugar and pour over a cup of preserved 
 ginger syrup. Place in the ice chest for 
 two hours to chill and ripen, then add 
 one cup of thick sugar syrup and two 
 quarts of ginger ale. Place a square 
 block of ice in a glass punch bowl, gar- 
 nished with large red raspberries and 
 bunches of ripe currants; pour the 
 effervescing cobbler over it and serve 
 immediately. 
 
 Lime Sherbet 
 
 Squeeze the juice from four limes; 
 strain and add a cup of raspberry 
 vinegar, two cups of pulverized sugar 
 and half a cup of grated cocoanut. 
 Cover and place directly on the ice for 
 two hours, then pour in gradually a cup 
 of iced tea, adding three sliced oranges 
 and the stiffly whipped whites of two 
 eggs. Prepare a lime syrup by boiling 
 two quarts of water with one quart of 
 sugar for twenty minutes, adding the 
 juice and grated rind of four limes; 
 remove from the fire and when thor- 
 oughly chilled, add to the rest. 
 
 Sassafras Mead 
 
 Purchase from the druggist five 
 bunches of sassafras roots, scrape and 
 cover with two quarts of boiling water, 
 adding a pinch each of powdered cinna- 
 mon and grated . nutmeg ; cover closely, 
 and when of the desired strength, strain 
 through cheesecloth, stirring in three 
 pints of New Orleans molasses, a pint 
 and a half of strained white honey and 
 six whole cloves. Plactf in a granite 
 saucepan and bring slowly to the boiling 
 point, allowing it to simmer for about 
 ten minutes; again strain and add a 
 heaping tablespoon of cream of tartar 
 and seal in air-tight bottles. Serve in 
 tall slender glasses containing two table- 
 spoons of shaved ice and a liberal pinch 
 of bicarbonate of soda; fill quickly with 
 the mead and stir vigorously with a long 
 handled spoon, adding a teaspoon of 
 minced candied orange peeL 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar 
 
 Put two quarts of fresh, ripe rasp- 
 berries in a stone or china vessel, and 
 pour on them a quart of vinegar. Let 
 stand twenty-four hours, then strain 
 
MEMORANDA 43 
 
44: BEVKRAGES 
 
 through a sieve. Pour the liquid over 
 two quarts of fresh raspberries and let 
 stand again twenty-four hours. Then 
 strain a second time. Allow one pound 
 of loaf sugar to every pint of juice. 
 Break up the sugar and let it melt in 
 the liquor. Put the whole into a stone 
 jar, cover closely and set it in a kettle 
 of boiling water, which must be kept at 
 a quick boil for one hour. Skim, and 
 when cold bottle the vinegar for use. 
 Poured over cracked ice with a little 
 water added, it makes a most refreshing 
 summer beverage. 
 
 Hungarian Caffe Cup 
 
 Prepare a pint of very strong black 
 coffee, flavoring with a few drops of 
 ahnond extract; strain and place in the 
 double boiler, combining when just at 
 the boiling point with two well beaten 
 eggs, two tablespoons of sugar and four 
 tablespoons of thick cream; cook only 
 until the custard coats the back of the 
 spoon, and when perfectly cold fold in 
 a cup of sweetened whipped cream. Add 
 a quart of ice cold effervescent water 
 and a pint of shaved ice, serving in tall 
 sherbet glasses. 
 
MEMORANDA 45 
 
Cereals 
 
 Cereals should be purchased in small 
 quantities and kept in air-tight jars se- 
 curely covered. In large quantities, it 
 is difficult to prevent infection from 
 insect life. The package directions in 
 nearly every case allow too short a time 
 for proper cooking. Double the time 
 and the results vyill be more healthful 
 and appetizing. Use a double boiler and 
 mix the finer preparations with a little 
 cold water, then add to the boiling water. 
 This prevents the mixture cooking un- 
 evenly in lumps. Allow one teaspoon of 
 salt to each cup of cereal. 
 
 Table for cooking cereals 
 
 Prepared wheat, 1 cup; water IV^ 
 cups; time 30 minutes. 
 
 Prepared oats, 1 cup; water lYz cups; 
 time 40 minutes. 
 
 Eice (steamed), 1 cup; water 3 cups; 
 time 50 minutes. 
 
 Indian meal, 1 cup; water 3V^ cups; 
 time 3 hours. 
 
 Scotch oatmeal, 1 cup; water 4 cups; 
 time 4 hours. 
 
 Hominy (fine), 1 cup; water 4 cups; 
 time 3 hours. 
 
 Hominy (coarse), 1 cup; water 6 
 cups; time 6 hours. 
 
 Wheat (cracked), 1 cup; water 6 cups; 
 time 6 hours. 
 
 Macaroni au Gratin in Cheese Shell 
 
 Place the macaroni in a saucepan 
 with a seasoning of salt and plenty of 
 boiling water, boil gently until quite 
 tender, drain and place a layer in a shell 
 of Edain cheese ; cover with cream sauce 
 to which has been added a little onion 
 juice; continue alternate layers of mac- 
 aroni and cream sauce, until the shell is 
 filled, sprinkle with browned bread 
 crumbs and bake thirty minutes. 
 
MEMORANDA 47 
 
Breads and Biscuits 
 
 Bread 
 
 Put four tablespoons of shortening, 
 either butter and lard mixed or one of 
 the good fats on the market, two table- 
 spoons of sugar and one tablespoon of 
 salt into a bread raiser, and pour over 
 it one quart of boiling water. Place one 
 yeast cake in half a cup of lukewarm 
 water and stir with a teaspoon till 
 softened. When the water in the bread 
 pan becomes lukewarm, pour in the yeast 
 and stir thoroughly. Add five cups of 
 sifted bread flour, beating it as it goes in 
 with a wire whisk. When it becomes too 
 thick to move with the whisk, use a 
 slitted wooden spoon and stir thoroughly, 
 so that the flour and wetting may become 
 well mixed. Add flour enough to knead. 
 When it is spongy but not dry, turn it 
 out on a well-floured molding cloth and 
 knead. It is the kneading that gives it 
 the satiny smoothness and the elasticity 
 which are invariable tests of good bread. 
 It ought, even during this process, to 
 begin to show bubbles in its texture. 
 Knead them out, as much as possible. 
 When dough is put back in the pan to 
 rise with bubbles showing here and 
 there, it will be full of holes and poor 
 of taste when baked. After the knead- 
 ing is flnished and the dough feels as 
 smooth as silk, wash the bread raiser 
 and dry it, then rub well inside with 
 butter or lard before putting the dough 
 back again for the second raising. In 
 the morning when well risen, cut it 
 down. By this process I mean cutting 
 the light spongy mass through and 
 through half a dozen times and then 
 turning it over and over to check fer- 
 mentation for a short time. The cut- 
 ting takes only a minute or two, and 
 one can feel that if it is not attended to 
 for half an hour, the bread will not sour. 
 It does not hurt it at all if it has to be 
 cut down a second time. When ready 
 to care for it, toss on the floured mold- 
 ing cloth and knead again — slightly this 
 time — tiU every air bubble disappears, 
 then put it in greased pans, having each 
 one about half full. Cover lightly, set 
 in a warm place and allow it to double 
 its bulk before putting to bake. 
 
MEMORANDA 4& 
 
so BREADS AND BISCUITS 
 
 This recipe will make, four good-sized 
 loaves. The oven, to give satisfactory 
 results, ought to be quite hot when_ the 
 bread is first put in. If you bake in a 
 gas stove, the best plan is to light both 
 burners seven or eight minutes before 
 the bread goes in. Set it on the bottom 
 shelf, then allow it to rise to double its 
 bulk and begin to brown very slightly. 
 Turn out one burner and finish the bak- 
 ing in a cooler oven. This does away 
 with any fear of burning; it bakes the 
 bread perfectly and gives a much nicer 
 crust than if the oven is very hot all the 
 time. The management of dampers in 
 a coal or wood stove will give the same 
 results. According to the size of your 
 loaves, bread will require from forty-five 
 to sixty minutes to bake well. On taking 
 it from the oven set the loaves on a wire 
 stand or sieve to cool. Never wrap them 
 steaming hot in a towel. Frequently 
 one tastes the cloth in which bread has 
 been wrapped, or the soap with which 
 the cloth was washed. Besides, it shuts 
 the steam up in the loaf, making it damp 
 and clammy, a sure medium for the cul- 
 tivation of mold. Allow the bread to 
 become perfectly cold before putting it 
 away in the bread box or jar, then keep 
 it closely covered. 
 
 The first and most important "must*- 
 have" is good yeast. I have come to de- 
 pend almost wholly and with the most 
 perfect trust on compressed yeast. If 
 your grocer keeps yeast at all, it will be 
 fresh, the manufacturer sees to that, as 
 the stock of each day is renewed and the 
 old yeast cakes are taken away. Still, if 
 you keep it yourself for a few days in 
 a refrigerator it will not spoil. Yeast 
 which is moist, light colored and of "re- 
 viving smell," as an old lady I know 
 expressed it, is all right. If it gets dry, 
 brittle, streaky and smells the opposite of 
 "reviving," throw it away; better lose 
 two cents than twenty cents' worth of 
 flour, with fire and labor added. Be very 
 careful of the heat of the water in which 
 yeast is softened. If you have a ther- 
 mometer, let the water be sixty-five to 
 sixty-eight degrees ; if you have to trust 
 to your hand, let it be very surely no 
 more than lukewarm. 
 
 Then the flour — it is an invariable rule 
 to use bread flour when yeast is to be 
 added. Bread flour will make tolerable 
 pie or cake, but pastry flour will not 
 make good bread. If, as occasionally 
 
MEMORANDA 51 
 
52 BREADS AND BISCUITS 
 
 occurs, you have flour whose nature you 
 cannot determine, use the following test : 
 take a handful and close the fingers 
 tightly over it. If it remains in a soft 
 velvety lump, even after the fingers are 
 loosened, it is pastry flour. Bread flour 
 will be dry and loose, it will not keep 
 in shape. 
 
 According to the time at your dis- 
 posal, allow sufficient yeast for raising. 
 For instance, if bread is wanted made 
 and baked in four hours, two yeast cakes 
 would have to be allowed to the recipe I 
 have given. There is no danger, should 
 compressed yeast be used, of its tasting 
 in the bread. This is called the quick- 
 raising method. In a temperature of 
 about sixty-eight degrees it will be ready 
 to mold two and a half hours from the 
 time it was set. It will be quite as good 
 bread as that made after the slow-raising 
 method, although I think the latter will 
 keep moist for a longer time. 
 
 I have heard many housewives com- 
 plain of bread souring. Bread sours only 
 because of two reasons — uncleanliness in 
 the making or the utensils, or because it 
 was allowed to stand too long after mix- 
 ing. When that occurs, the yeast has 
 done its work completely, and the dan- 
 gerous bacteria get in their work, exactly 
 in the same way as at the point where 
 cider changes to vinegar. I have found, 
 too, that in hot weather milk bread will 
 sour much more quickly than if bread 
 is mixed with water. Then there is the 
 question of dry bread, with a heavy feel- 
 ing about it, both to the touch and to the 
 palate. Usually this is caused either by 
 too much flour being worked into the 
 dough or by heavy-handed kneading. 
 Bread, like cake, pastry, cookies and 
 biscuit, has a point where just enough 
 flour has been added and where no more 
 ought to go in. This amount it is al- 
 most impossible for a recipe maker to 
 determine, because there are so many 
 flours, and the wetting capacities of two 
 are hardly ever alike. It is a case of ex- 
 perience. A practiced hand can tell 
 almost the instant when enough flour has 
 gone into bread by a certain springy 
 feeling. Then tip it out and begin 
 kneading. It may seem moist, but it is 
 not moist enough to stick if you inter- 
 vene with well-floured fingers between 
 the dough and the cloth. Knead quickly 
 and lightly; a heavy hand which pounds 
 bread instead of molding it wiU soon 
 
MEMORANDA 53 
 
54 BREADS AND BISCUITS 
 
 thump all the life out of it, and the 
 bread will have the texture of cheese. 
 
 Hot Cross Buns 
 
 Beat to a cream one large cup of 
 granulated sugar and one scant cup of 
 butter. Add gradually three eggs beaten 
 well and one pint of scalded milk, blood 
 warm. Add one yeast cake softened in 
 one-half cup of lukewarm water. Put 
 in flour enough to make a batter as 
 stifE as you can beat it. Beat until it 
 blisters well. In the morning knead rap- 
 idly, but do not use over one-half cup of 
 flour in the kneading. Dough must be 
 very soft. Rub over top with a little 
 warm butter and let rise. When double 
 in bulk cut into balls like tea biscuit. 
 Eub each bun with a little butter and 
 make a cross on top with a sharp knife. 
 Let rise in pans one and one-half or two 
 hours. Bake one-half hour. 
 
 Buttermilk Biscuits 
 
 One cup buttermilk or sour milk, one- 
 half teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon 
 salt, three tablespoons lard and flour. 
 Work the lard into the milk with the 
 hand. Add one cup flour, sifted with 
 soda and salt, more flour to make a 
 dough and knead until smooth and elas- 
 tic as for light bread. EoU out until 
 one-half inch thick, cut and bake in a 
 hot oven ten or fifteen minutes. The bis- 
 cuits must be thin, almost cracker-like, 
 and you have the real southern biscuit. 
 It seems best to work in the lard in this 
 way. 
 
 Steamed Brown Bread 
 
 One and one-quarter cups of Indian 
 meal, one cup of graham meal and three- 
 quarters cup of rye meal; one teaspoon 
 of soda and one-half teaspoon of salt; 
 three-quarters cup of molasses, two cups 
 sour milk or hot water. Mix and sift dry 
 ingredients, and return siftings to the 
 finer part. (This sifting is to make it 
 lighter, not to tako out the coarse grains.') 
 Add molasses, then sour milk or hot 
 water, beat well and pour into an oiled 
 tin with tight cover. Place to steam 
 either in a steamer or in a tightly cov- 
 ered kettle partly filled with boiling 
 water. Steam three or four hours, then 
 dry off in the oven. 
 
MEMORANDA S5 
 
56 BREADS AND BISCUITS 
 
 Johnnycake 
 
 Sift one-half cup each of corn meal, 
 flour and sugar, one-half teaspoon of 
 soda, and one-half teaspoon of salt, thor- 
 oughly together. Add one and one- 
 fourths cups of sour milk. Use butter- 
 milk if you have it. Beat thoroughly, 
 pour into cake pan and bake in a hot 
 oven. 
 
 Date Buns 
 
 Koll light bread dough out quite thin, 
 spread it with soft butter, and then with 
 chopped dates. EoU the bread up and 
 cut with a sharp knife into pieces half 
 an inch thick, lay them in a buttered 
 pan, let them rise until double in bulk, 
 and bake in a hot oven. 
 
 Oatmeal Bread 
 
 Pour one quart of boiling water over 
 two cups of oatmeal and one tablespoon 
 of shortening; when lukewarm add one- 
 half of a compressed yeast cake, softened 
 in two tablespoons of lukewarm water, 
 one cup of molasses, and one teaspoon of 
 salt, thicken with wheat flour until as 
 stiff as can be stirred with a spoon. Let 
 rise over night and in the morning mold 
 into loaves and biscuits. 
 
 Breadsticks 
 
 Scald a cup of milk and add three 
 tablespoons of sugar with one-half tea- 
 spoon of salt. When the right temper- 
 ature (lukewarm), add a yeast cake 
 softened in a little warm water. Too 
 much water prevents the yeast mixing 
 evenly. Add the stiffly beaten white of 
 an egg and enough flour to knead. 
 Knead well, using the palms of the 
 hands and pushing it from you on 
 the board with a sliding motion. When 
 it is smooth and satiny to the touch, 
 keeps its round shape, and does not stick 
 to the board or hand, it is ready to be 
 placed in a clean oiled bowl. Knead in 
 all the flour that will be needed at this 
 time, if not, the yeast will have no op- 
 portunity to raise it sufficiently. On the 
 other hand, use no more than is abso- 
 lutely necessary. Flours vary and for 
 this reason no deflnite quanitity can be 
 given. Cover tightly in order that no 
 crust need form. When it is double in 
 bulk, knead aerain with just enough 
 flour to keep it from sticking. Then roll 
 
MEMORANDA 57 
 
SB BREADS AKD BISCUITS 
 
 with a heavy rolling pin until about 
 a quarter of an inch thick. Cut with a 
 medium-sized biscuit cutter. 
 
 To shape the Parker House rolls, 
 spread each biscuit with a very thin 
 layer of butter, then with a caseknife 
 crease through the center, fold over and 
 press the edges closely together. Do not 
 butter the baking tin, and place them 
 far enough apart to prevent their touch- 
 ing, even after they are raised. 
 
 KoU the biscuits between the palms 
 until from eight to ten inches long, of 
 uniform size and with well rounded 
 ends. Let them rise; bake and serve 
 these breadsticks with soup or the salad. 
 Brush three sticks lightly with melted 
 butter and braid loosely. Two sticks 
 twisted make another variation. In 
 twisting or braiding allow plenty of 
 room for the dough to rise, otherwise 
 the distinctive shape will be lost. 8hape 
 others like a horseshoe, using a plain 
 breadstick, and tie sailors' or true lovers' 
 knots; both of these latter are effective. 
 
 "Pocketbooks" need an oblong piece 
 of dough cut with one end pointed. 
 Brush with melted butter and fold in 
 thirds, leaving the pointed end on top. 
 Press firmly together at the point. 
 When baked they should open like a 
 pocketbook in three crisp folds.' See 
 Page 8. 
 
 Rusks 
 
 Scald one cup of milk and add two 
 tablespoons each of butter and sugar, 
 with a half teaspoon of salt. When 
 warm add one-half a yeast cake softened 
 in two tablespoons of warm water. Now 
 stir in enough flour to make a stiff bat- 
 ter, beat it until smooth, cover and 
 let it rise. When risen add two eggs 
 beaten until very light, and flour enough 
 to handle; knead until smooth and let 
 it rise again. Then roll out as the bis- 
 cuit dough. Make into round biscuits 
 and with a floured dull knife press 
 through- the center. When light bake 
 them in a moderate oven. If the twice 
 baked rusk is liked, mold into long, 
 oblong rolls, and when baked, cut in 
 inch slices, and dry in the oven to a 
 golden brown. See Page 9. 
 
MEMORANDA 59 
 
Waffles and Griddlecakes 
 
 Waffles 
 
 Mix one pint of flour, three-fourths 
 pint clabber (if you use buttermilk, a 
 pint), one teaspoon salt, one tablespoon 
 melted lard, and beat till perfectly 
 smooth — ^beat hard and long, for success 
 will depend on it. Just before you put 
 in the irons add one level teaspoon of 
 soda dissolved in a teaspoon of hot 
 water. Heat the waffle iron, turn and 
 heat on the other side, then oil thor- 
 oughly. Put a tablespoon of batter in 
 each compartment; then cover and it 
 will soon fill the iron. Turn at once. 
 With a new iron oil carefully or waffles 
 will stick. 
 
 Pumpkin Waffles 
 
 Take one cup of mashed and seasoned 
 pumpkin, carefully drained, and add one 
 well beaten egg, one cup of warm cream, 
 half a yeast cake dissolved in half a cup 
 of lukewarm water, one tablespoon of 
 melted butter and four cups of sifted 
 flour; thin to a rather thick batter 
 with sweet milk; allow it to rise until 
 light and then beat down, adding a pinch 
 of powdered mace and ground ginger; 
 again let it rise for twenty minutes and 
 bake in heated waffle irons to a golden 
 brown; dip the waffles while hot in 
 melted butter and roll in equal parts of 
 cinnamon and pulverized sugar. 
 
 Rye Pancakes 
 
 One pint of sour milk, one egg, three 
 cups of rye meal, one cup of Indian 
 meal, one-half cup of molasses, one small 
 teaspoon of soda, small teaspoon of salt. 
 Mix well and fry in smoking hot fat; 
 dip the spoon first in the hot fat, then 
 take up a piece of the dough a little 
 larger than an English walnut, using 
 the tip of the spoon. Shape it a little as 
 you take it up, then drop it quickly into 
 the fat. These require longer cooking 
 than doughnuts. Eoll, while still hot, 
 in sugar and serve with coffee. Or serve 
 them plain with maple syrup. 
 
MEMORANDA 61 
 
Eggs 
 
 Fried Eggs 
 
 Separate the yolks from the whites and 
 put very little lard in the pan. Break 
 the yolks and spread them all over the 
 pan after it is b.ot. Season to taste and, 
 beginning at one edge, roll the yolks into 
 a cylindrical shape and allow it to cook 
 a few minutes. Now turn the whites 
 into the skillet without any more lard, 
 ev.en though the skillet appears to be 
 dry, spread the whites over the bottom 
 of pan, season quickly and roll as before ; 
 let this cook in the roll. It will not burn 
 as there is plenty of water in an egg to 
 prevent it. The result of this method 
 is a light, fluffy morsel. 
 
 Plain Omelet 
 
 Crack into a bowl six fresh eggs, season 
 delicately with salt and white pepper 
 and beat until well mixed. Drop a table- 
 spoon of butter into a heated omelet pan, 
 and as soon as the butter is hot pour 
 in the eggs and with a spatula stir all 
 well together for three minutes. Let 
 cook undisturbed for a moment, then 
 fold the side next the pan handle to 
 the center, fold the opposite side in the 
 same manner and slip carefully to a hot 
 dish. Serve immediately. 
 
 Eggs au Gratin 
 
 Mix together three raw egg yolks, a 
 quarter of a cup of soft, fresh bread 
 crumbs, two tablespoons of softened 
 butter, one tablespoon of chopped chives, 
 three chopped sardines, two sprigs of 
 parsley chopped, and a light dusting of 
 salt and pepper. Spread this mixture in 
 the bottom of a baking dish and place 
 in a slow oven until set; then break over 
 it six eggs, dust them with salt and 
 pepper and bake until done. 
 
 Eggs Vermicelli 
 
 Separate the whites and yolks of four 
 hard cooked eggs. Chop the whites 
 and rub the yolks through a sieve. Melt 
 a tablespoon of butter; when bubbling, 
 add a tablespoon of flour, gradually a 
 cup of milk, stirring well, and salt and 
 pepper to season. Add the whites to this 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
64 EQOS 
 
 sauce, spread thickly on rounds of fresh 
 buttered toast and sprinkle the sifted 
 yolks thickly over all. 
 
 Egg Timbales 
 
 Break open four eggs into a bowl, add 
 half a teaspoon of salt, a saltspoon of 
 pepper, and, if liked, a few drops of 
 onion juice. Beat only until thoroughly 
 blended, then add gradually a cup of 
 rich new milk. Divide equally among 
 six well buttered timbale molds (com- 
 mon cups will serve the purpose). Stand 
 them in a pan half filled with hot water 
 and bake in a moderate oven about 
 twenty minutes, or until firm to the 
 touch. Turn out carefully on a heated 
 platter and pour bread sauce around. 
 
 Spanish Eggs 
 
 Cut six circles of bread from a stale 
 loaf and fry to a brown crispness in hot 
 butter. Fry six eggs in hot olive oil, 
 allowing one egg for each circle of 
 bread; when the eggs are done trim the 
 edges (a biscuit cutter is the most sat; 
 isfactory implement to use when desir- 
 ous of a shapely result) and lay one on 
 each bread round, pour over a pint of 
 Spanish sauce and serve piping hot. 
 
 Eggs and Cheese 
 
 Cut out rounds of bread an inch thick, 
 remove a small piece in the center of 
 each, dip in melted butter anA fill the 
 cavity with finely chopped cheese and 
 celery. Bake fifteen minutes in a hot 
 oven and place a poached egg in the 
 center of each slice. Serve with toasted 
 crackers and sliced lemon. 
 
 Luncheon Eggs with Spinach 
 
 Cook six eggs very hard; cool and cut 
 in halves lengthwise. Take two cups of 
 cold spinach, heat it in a few tablespoons 
 of water, drain and rub through a col- 
 ander or chop very fine. Mix with pep- 
 per, salt and butter, place it in the bot- 
 tom of an earthen dish, lay the halves of 
 eggs about on the spinach and pour over 
 them a cream sauce, made from one cup 
 of milk thickened and seasoned with salt, 
 paprika and about four tablespoons of 
 mild grated cheese. Cover with crumbs 
 and set in the oven. Serve when slightly 
 browned. 
 
MEMORANDA , 65 
 
Soups with Stock 
 
 Beef Stock 
 
 Remove the dried skin and fat from 
 three pounds of lean meat from the shin 
 or shoulder. Crack three pounds of bone. 
 Gut the meat in small cubes and place 
 in an earthen jar or stock kettle, to- 
 gether with the cracked bones. Cover 
 with four quarts of cold water and let 
 stand for two houi^. Then cook eight 
 hours in a slow oven. Strain through 
 a colander, add two teaspoons of salt and 
 cool quickly. When cold remove the fat. 
 Wipe the top of the jellied stock with a 
 cheesecloth wrung out of hot water. 
 This will remove the last traces of fat. 
 To clarify add the slightly beaten white 
 and shell of an egg to every two quarts 
 of stock. Mix well, heat slowly and let 
 boil ten minutes, set on back of stove for 
 half an hour. Skim and strain. Sea- 
 son when boiling to clear with two table- 
 spoons of chopped turnip and carrot, one 
 teaspoon of onion and parsley, one inch 
 of stick cinnamon and a grating of nut- 
 meg. 
 
 Consomme 
 
 Use three pounds each of lean beef and 
 knuckle of veal. Prepare as for beef 
 stock. Add four quarts of water, two 
 teaspoons of salt, one onion, one small 
 carrot, one small turnip, a blade of mace, 
 an inch of stick cinnamon, a sprig of 
 thyme, sweet marjoram and summer 
 savory and one bay leaf. Cover closely 
 and cook twelve hours in a slow oven. 
 Strain, cool and clear as for beef stock. 
 
 Turkey Gumho 
 
 Brown one-half cup of chopped onions 
 in one tablespoon of butter. Add two 
 quarts of hot water, one cup of chopped 
 celery and the carcass of a turkey 
 broken in pieces. Bring to the boiling 
 point, cover, and simmer gently for. two 
 hours. Strain the soup through a col- 
 ander and add one cup of canned okra 
 cut in small pieces, one pint of oysters 
 with their liquor, three level teaspoons 
 of salt and one-half teaspoon of pepper. 
 Replace on the fire and cook until the 
 gills of the oysters curl, then serve at 
 once. 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 67 
 
68 SOUPS WITH STOCK 
 
 Bean Porridge 
 
 Boil two pounds of shin bone in two 
 quarts of water the day before you wish 
 to make the porridge. When cold remove 
 the bones and most of the fat. Soak one 
 cup of dried "horticultural" beans over 
 night and in the morning add to the soup 
 stock with salt and one quart of hulled 
 com. Cook for four hours, boiling 
 slowly. Half an hour before serving 
 thicken with a half cup of Indian meal 
 wet in cold water. Let it boil sufficiently 
 to cook the meal thoroughly before serv- 
 ing. 
 
 Tornato and Rice Soup 
 
 Prepare a savory stock from the bones 
 and unsightly pieces of lamb and a fagot 
 of herbs, first browning the meat in but- 
 ter. Strain, season with salt and pepper, 
 add three-quarters of a cup of rice and 
 boil until the grains are tender but not 
 broken. Heat a quart of sliced toma- 
 toes to the boiling point and pass through 
 a sieve to separate the seeds. Add to the 
 tomato pulp the soup (of which there 
 should be three pints), strained from the 
 rice, and return to the fire to heat again, 
 then add the rice, any additional sea- 
 soning of salt and pepper required, a 
 cube of sugar and four tablespoons of 
 finely-chopped blanched celery leaves. 
 
 Onion Soup Thickened 
 
 Cut up two medium onions, mince 
 them finely, and fry them colorless in 
 butter, adding two dessertspoons of 
 flour. Cook it a few moments with the 
 onions, then dilute with two quarts of 
 broth. Season with pepper and a little 
 salt, boil for ten minutes, and just when 
 ready to serve, thicken the soup with 
 raw egg yolks diluted in cream, and add 
 a little fine butter. Pour the soup over 
 round, thin slices of bread about one 
 inch and a quarter in diameter, dried 
 in the oven. 
 
"memoranda 6ft 
 
Soups Without Stock 
 
 Potato Soup 
 
 Boil and mash six potatoes, season 
 with one-fourth pound of butter, pepper 
 and salt, and a dash of nutmeg. Add 
 one quart of hot milk slowly, stir well 
 and let it boil up, then strain through a 
 sieve into the tureen. Hub the tureen 
 with a tiny segment of garlic, or onion, 
 if preferred, and beat an egg in it before 
 turning in the soup. Serve with toast 
 squares. 
 
 Black Bean Soup 
 
 Soak a pint of beans in cold water 
 over night, next morning cover them 
 with fresh water, bring to the boiling 
 point, drain and throw away the second 
 water; now place the beans in a granite 
 soup kettle, add two quarts of cold water 
 and simmer gently for one hour. Have 
 ready a white onion stuck with eight 
 whole cloves, two bay leaves, half a tea- 
 spoon of powdered cinnamon, a salt- 
 spoon of white pepper, a teaspoon of 
 salt, and a stalk of minced celery; stir 
 these into the boiling soup, cook for 
 another hour, then press through a col- 
 ander, add a tablespoon of butter and 
 return to the fire, diluting with a little 
 hot water if too thick ; put into the soup 
 tureen which is to be used at table, two 
 hard boiled eggs cut in dice, a teaspoon 
 of Worcestershire sauce, a little grated 
 lemon peel and a dusting of nutmeg; 
 pour in the bean puree and serve with 
 browned croutons. 
 
 Mushroom Soup (for eight people) 
 
 To one pint of cream add one pint of 
 milk and let it come to a boil; thicken 
 with two tablespoons of butter and two 
 of flour which have been stirred until 
 smooth; season with pepper and salt. 
 Just before serving add one dozen fresh 
 mushrooms which have been chopped, 
 not too fine, or canned ones may be sub- 
 stituted. A pint will be sufficient. 
 
 Clam Soup 
 
 Boil one quart of clams in the shell, 
 or one pint of opened clams. Strain 
 the clam water. Heat one pint of milk, 
 thicken with two tablespoons of cracker 
 
MEMORANDA Tl 
 
72 SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK 
 
 crumbs, flour or cornstarch. Add to 
 thickened milk, with clam water to sea- 
 son, pepper and butter. 
 
 Almond and Celery Soup 
 
 Cut in small pieces a bunch of celery, 
 using the leaves and root after it is 
 carefully scraped, add six peppercorns, 
 two bay leaves, a tablespoon of onion 
 juice, a thin slice of lemon, a teaspoon 
 of salt, and a stick of cinnamon; cover 
 with a quart of water and cook one hour, 
 strain and again reheat, stirring in a 
 cup of cream, a teaspoon each of flour 
 and butter blended together and one- 
 quarter of a cup of blanched almonds 
 that have been pounded to a paste, allow- 
 ing it to boil for a moment or two after 
 the nuts are added. Serve very hot with 
 cheese crackers. 
 
 Bean and Celery Soup 
 
 Soak one pint of navy beans for 
 twenty-four hours, then simmer on the 
 back of the coal range over night. Take 
 two stalks of celery, cut it fine, cook it 
 half an hour with the beans, then press 
 celery and beans through a colander. 
 Heat one quart of beef stock, add the 
 puree and cook together for fifteen 
 minutes, stirring constantly. 
 
 Cream Puree of Chestnuts 
 
 Roast one quart of chestnuts and then 
 shell them, putting them in a granite 
 sancepan and adding one quart of white 
 stock, half a teaspoon of celery salt, a 
 saltspoon of white pepper, one sliced 
 Bermuda onion and two stalks of 
 chopped celery. Simmer until the chest- 
 nuts are very tender ; press first through 
 a colander and then through a sieve. 
 Eeturn the puree thus obtained to the 
 kettle and stir in a pint of cream and 
 one tablespoon of butter; allow it just 
 to reach the boiling point, seasoning with 
 a teaspoon of salt and a tablespoon of 
 mushroom catsup. Serve immediately 
 with croutons. 
 
 Flemish Soup 
 
 Wash and slice five green onions, a 
 , head of celery and six large potatoes, 
 cover with two quarts of water and sim- 
 mer until tender. Eub through a sieve, 
 return to the fire, add a tablespoon of 
 flour mixed smootii in a cup of cream; 
 
MEMORANDA 73 
 
74 SOOPS WITHOUT STOCK 
 
 when it boils, add salt, pepper, a tea- 
 spoon of chopped parsley, and pour over 
 four hard cooked eggs cut in slices. 
 
 Spring Soup 
 
 Boil one cup of peas, one cup of 
 asparagus tips and half a cup of carrots 
 cut in small dice, in separate waters 
 until tender; drain, and set aside to add 
 to the soup. Put all together the liquor 
 in which the vegetables were cooked, 
 add enough boiling water to make a 
 quart, and in this cook for fifteen min- 
 utes two stalks of celery, two green 
 onions and a small sprig of parsley, 
 strain, return to the fire, add one pint 
 of scalded milk, a teaspoon of salt, and 
 draw the saucepan to the back of the 
 stove. Beat the yolks of two eggs, add 
 half a pint of cream, dilute with a little 
 of the hot soup, and stir into the rest of 
 the soup. Do not allow to boil after 
 adding the eggs or it will curdle. Add 
 the prepared vegetables, and a teaspoon 
 of finely minced chervil. Serve at once. 
 
 Cream of Cheese 
 
 Put one quart of milk, one blade of 
 mace, a tablespoon of grated onion and 
 a bit of red pepper pod into a kettle. 
 Let come to a boil. Cream two table- 
 spoons of flour with two of butter, add 
 a cup of cold milk and stir slowly into 
 the milk in the boiler. When it boils, 
 strain, add half a cup of grated cheese 
 and stir until it is melted. Add a tea- 
 spoon of salt and pour over the beaten 
 yolks of two eggs, stirring all the time. 
 Whip until frothy and serve with wafers 
 or bread sticks. 
 
 Strawberry Soup 
 
 Hull and rinse a quart of berries. 
 Lay aside a cup of the most perfect ones. 
 Cover the remaining ones with a cup of 
 cold water, cook until soft, then strain 
 through a cheesecloth. Measure the 
 juice, add water if needed to make two 
 cups and reheat. When boiling well add 
 a level tablespoon of arrowroot or corn- 
 starch moistened with cold water to 
 pour, the grated rind of half an orange 
 and half a cup of sugar. Cook ten 
 minutes, or until clear, take from the 
 fire, add the juice of an orange, the 
 juice of half a lemon and more sugar if 
 needed. It should not be too sweet. 
 Strain through a cheesecloth and chill 
 
MEMORANDA 75 
 
76 SODPS WITHOUT STOCK 
 
 on ice. Serve in punch glasses, adding 
 a spoonful of cracked ice and a few 
 berries to each portion, as a first course 
 at luncheon or tea with sweet wafers or 
 macaroons. 
 
 Fruit Soup 
 
 Put a quart of water in a saucepan, 
 add six whole cloves, two sticks of cin- 
 namon, the yellow peel of a lemon and 
 four bitter ahnonds. Let this steep for 
 one hour, then boil gently ten minutes. 
 Strain into half a cup of sago, add 
 another quart of water and simmer until 
 clear, add two tablespoons of sugar, one 
 teaspoon of salt and a pint of fruit juice 
 — cherry, strawberry, currant or black- 
 berry. Serve at once. 
 
 Dried Fruit Soup 
 
 Cook one-half cup of dried apples and 
 one-fourth cup each of prunes, raisins 
 and currants with a small stick of cin- 
 namon, in eight cups of water, replacing 
 if it boils away. Boil gently until the 
 fruit is tender. If liked, leave the fruit 
 whole or pass through a colander. Add 
 two tablespoons of vinegar. Sweeten to 
 taste and thicken with two tablespoons 
 of sago or oatmeaL 
 
 Chocolate Soup 
 
 Break -six oblongs of chocolate in 
 small pieces, cover with a quart of water 
 and place on the back of the stove to 
 melt, stirring frequently. Heat one 
 quart of milk, add a small stick of cin- 
 namon and one cup of sugar. When 
 the chocolate is melted and boiling add 
 to the milk, and strain over the yolks of 
 two eggs, diluted with half a cup of 
 cream. "Whip half a cup of cream and 
 stir into the soup just before serving. 
 This is an excellent luncheon soup; 
 serve with imperial bread sticks. These 
 are made by cutting the slices of bread 
 into thin strips, spreading with butter, 
 then sifting sugar over them and plac- 
 ing in a cool oven to become crisp and 
 glazed. Serve cold. 
 
MEMORANDA T7 
 
Fish 
 
 In selecting fish the purchaser should 
 see that the skin and scales are bright, 
 the eyes full and clear and the flesh firm. 
 Beware of fish that is unusually cheap; 
 it has probably been kept in cold storage 
 and is far from fresh. Canned fish 
 should be used with discretion, always re- 
 moving it immediately on opening the 
 tin and letting it stand for an hour or 
 more before using, to absorb oxygen. 
 
 It is economy to buy a whole cod or 
 haddock weighing three or four pounds, 
 as the whole fish is much cheaper than 
 when sliced and all of it can be utilized. 
 
 Try this method of preparing a cod or 
 haddock. Clean and wipe the fish, cut 
 off the head, cut the flesh from the back- 
 bone in two long strips. Put the head 
 and bones over the fire in cold water and 
 cook for one hour, to make a fish stock, 
 as there is much gelatine in the head, and 
 some flesh clings to the bones. Strain 
 this stock and reserve it as a basis for a 
 fish chowder, adding potatoes, milk, on- 
 ion, salt pork and crackers according to 
 any good chowder recipe. The fillets of 
 fish freed from the bones may be used for 
 baking. 
 
 Among the most delicate fish for broil- 
 ing are lake or salmon trout and white- 
 fish, which are fresh water fish from the 
 great lakes and are in season during the 
 winter. Broiling seems to be a simple 
 process, yet it requires care and attention 
 to prepare the fish without burning it. 
 Everything should be made ready for 
 serving before starting to broil the fish, 
 which must be watched, turned and 
 timed. With a bright hot fire which 
 broiling requires, a fish one-inch thick 
 will cook in twelve to fifteen minutes, 
 more time being needed for a thick fish 
 like salmon, bluefish or shad. Use a 
 double wire broiler well greased with salt 
 pork to keep the fish from breaking and 
 sticking. I^y the fish over the fire, flesh' 
 side down, and broil it till it is a golden 
 brown, lifting occasionally if necessary. 
 Cook it from eight to twelve minutes, 
 then turn onto the skin side and broil 
 it four or five minutes. Remove to a 
 hot platter, rub the fish wili soft butter, 
 garnish with parsley and quarters of 
 lemon and serve. Halibut, cod, salmon 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
80 FISH 
 
 steaks, bluefish, mackerel, biitterfisli,_8ea 
 trout and shad are good fish for broiling. 
 If cut very thick the cooking may be 
 completed in the oven. 
 
 There are two methods of frying, one 
 is to immerse the fish in "boiling oil" 
 and the other to fry it in a pan with salt 
 pork scraps ; the latter is th- more "tasty" 
 the former more rapid and less likely to 
 absorb fat if the fish is drained on brown 
 paper. Small fish like trout, smelts, 
 perch and pickerel are dipped whole in 
 flour, Indian meal or egg and crumbs, 
 and fried crisp. Cod, halibut, haddock, 
 flounders, sole, etc, are cut in slices or 
 fillets dipped and fried either way. 
 
 In boiling or steaming fish much is lost 
 or wasted by absorption into the boiling 
 water, or by evaporation. Boiling is far 
 from an economical process, but is often 
 convenient. A thick, solid piece of fish 
 is required, salmon, cod, halibut and red 
 snapper being best to boil. 
 
 Molded Fish 
 
 Butter an oval mold, lay in it a strip 
 of boned fish, then a layer of bread 
 crumbs seasoned with melted butter, on- 
 ion juice, chopped parsley and lemon 
 juice, pepper, salt and curry, if liked. 
 Add more fish and crumbs till the mold 
 is full. Moisten with one-half cup of 
 milk or water and the whole or white of 
 one egg, to bind the mixture together. 
 Sprinkle buttered crumbs on top, bake 
 for one-half hour, unmold on a platter 
 and serve with Spanish sauce. Oysters 
 dipped in buttered crumbs may be substi- 
 tuted for the seasoned crumbs, and a 
 HoUandaise sauce used. 
 
 Baked Fillets 
 
 Each large fillet is cut into three or 
 four small ones and dipped in flour, to 
 which has been added a little salt and 
 pepper. On a rest in the meat pan are 
 placed strips of fat salt pork and sliced 
 onion and on these are placed the flllets. 
 On each one place a bit of butter and a 
 slice of onion, cover and bake in a mod- 
 erate oven until thoroughly cooked. 
 (The unpardonable sin, by the way, is to 
 serve fish in a translucent, underdone 
 condition.) Remove the fillets carefully, 
 rejecting the pork and onion, and serve 
 with parsley sauce, a white sauce with 
 chopped parsley added. Garnish with 
 sliced hard-cooked eggs and parsley. 
 
MEMORANDA 81 
 
d2 FISH 
 
 Baked Stuffed Fish 
 
 Prepare a stuffing with one-half cup of 
 bread crumbs, one-fourth cup of melted 
 butter, one-half cup of cracker crumbs, 
 a few drops of onion juice, one-fourth 
 teaspoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoon of 
 pepper, one tablespoon of chopped^ pars- 
 ley, two tablespoons of chopped pickles. 
 Bind together with hot water. Lay one- 
 half a boned fish on a tin sheet in a bak- 
 ing pan, add the stuffing in a layer, then 
 the second strip of fish and bake for one- 
 half hour. Serve with egg sauce. 
 
 Halibut with Lemon Sauce 
 
 Put into a saucepan containing a pint 
 of water, one small onion minced, a tea- 
 spoon of butter, two pods of red pepper, 
 a teaspoon of salt and one and one-half 
 pounds of halibut cut into slices. When 
 cooked remove fish and thicken the liq- 
 uid with a tablespoon of flour or corn- 
 starch. Break into a separate dish six 
 eggs into which has been stirred the juice 
 of six lemons. Add slowly, to prevent 
 curdling, the liquor from the fish. Cook 
 in a double boiler, stirring all the time. 
 When thick as custard, remove from the 
 fire and place fish in a deep platter, pour- 
 ing sauce over all. Serve cold, garnished 
 with parsley. 
 
 Haddock a la Creole 
 
 Place a filleted haddock on the rack 
 in the meat pan. Make a thin tomato 
 sauce of one quart of strained tomatoes, 
 two slices of onion, two or three cloves, 
 one-quarter cup each of flour and butter ; 
 season well with salt and pepper and 
 pour half of it over the fish. Cook an 
 hour in a moderate oven, basting it three 
 or four times. When done, remove to 
 the serving dish and pour over it the 
 remaining tomato sauce. 
 
 Fish a la Lee 
 
 Split and bone a bluefish and place on 
 a well-buttered sheet. Cream one-quar- 
 ter cup butter, add two egg yolks and 
 stir until well blended, then add two 
 tablespoons each of onion, capers, pickles 
 and parsley, finely chopped, three table- 
 spoons lemon juice, one-half teaspoon 
 salt, and one-quarter teaspoon pepper. 
 Sprinkle fish with salt, spread with mix- 
 ture and bake in a hot oven. 
 
UEMORANDA 8? 
 
84 FISH 
 
 Shaker Fish and Egg 
 
 Pare six medium-sized potatoes and 
 boil till soft with one-half pound salt 
 fish that has been soaked twelve hours or 
 over night. Drain off the water. Cut 
 the potatoes iato slices and pick the fish 
 into small pieces. Add one cup of thin 
 cream and a piece of butter the size of 
 an egg, and let simmer. Season with 
 salt to taste> Slice six hard-boiled eggs 
 on top of the fish and potato and over 
 all pour some hot cream before serving. 
 
 Salt Cod with Tomatoes 
 
 From the center of a thick salt cod 
 take a piece weighing about a pound, 
 wash and soak for eighteen hours in 
 cold water, changing the water twice. 
 Cover with fresh cold water, heat slowly 
 and keep at a temperature just below 
 the simmering point for two hours and 
 a half. Put a tablespoon of butter 
 which has been rolled in flour, in a 
 frying pan, add two tablespoons of 
 chopped onion, and cook slowly until 
 the onion is a pale yellow color. Add 
 two cups of strained canned tomatoes, 
 simmer for ten minutes, add the 
 drained fish and place on the back of 
 the range for thirty minutes. Dust 
 lightly with pepper when it is ready 
 for the table. 
 
 Salmon Loaf 
 
 Chop one can of fresh salmon, re- 
 jecting the skin, bones and oil. Cream 
 four tablespoons of butter; beat four 
 eggs, add one and one-half cups of bread 
 crumbs, season and beat well, then add 
 the butter and fish. Beat all together 
 and steam one hour in a buttered mold. 
 
 Finnan Haddie on Toast 
 
 Wash two ounces of rice and cook in 
 a double boiler with one pint of boiling 
 water and one teaspoon of salt. When 
 the water is absorbed add two tablespoons 
 of butter and "a little milk. Season with 
 salt, pepper and cayenne and add a 
 cooked finnan haddie which has been 
 flaked. When thoroughly heated serve 
 on toast. 
 
 Fried Sardines with Hot Mayonnaise 
 
 Pree the sardines from oil and skins 
 with boiling water. Dip in batter and 
 fry in deep fat. For the mayonnaise, 
 combine one tablespoon each of butter 
 
MEMORANDA 85 
 
86 FISH 
 
 and flour with one-half cup of hot milk 
 and a quarter teaspoon of salt. Add to 
 this one-half tablespoon each of chopped 
 capers, olives, pickles and parsley, one 
 teaspoon lemon juice and quarter cup 
 mayonnaise. Heat this, but do not let it 
 reach the boiling point. 
 
 Rich Curry of Fish 
 
 Fry one tablespoon of chopped onion 
 in one tablespoon of butter until brown, 
 add one small teaspoon of curry powder, 
 one cup of white stock, one-half cup of 
 rich milk or thin cream, one tablespoon 
 each of flour and butter, rubbed smooth, 
 pepper and salt to taste. When smooth 
 add one pound of cold flaked fish. Sim- 
 mer three minutes and serve. 
 
 Escalloped Fish 
 
 Flake cold boiled fish with a silver 
 fork. Butter a baking dish and fill it 
 with alternate layers of fish, crumbs and 
 sauce. Season with salt and pepper arid 
 bake till light brown. Cook scallops in 
 the same way, using the juice with milk, 
 to make a white sauce, and seasoning 
 with mustard and paprika. 
 
 Creamed Fish 
 
 Flake cold boiled fish. Blend one 
 tablespoon each of flour and butter, add 
 one cup of hot milk. When cooked 
 smooth, add fish, season with salt, pepper 
 and lemon juice and serve at once. 
 
 Oysters in Shell 
 
 Select fine, fat oysters in the shell. 
 Wash the shells carefully, open; put on 
 each oyster on the half shell a small bit 
 of butter, a grating of leeks, some very 
 finely grated parsley and a sprinkle of 
 dry cracker crumbs; a suspicion of salt 
 and pepper. In opening see that none 
 of the liquor of the oyster is lost, as it 
 is needed for moisture. Make the cov- 
 ering very thin and bake in the shell 
 on a flat pan in the oven for ten minutes, 
 or until the shell takes a slight tinge of 
 brown. Serve very hot with breadsticks. 
 
 Boston Oysters 
 
 Fill hot water pan with the strained 
 liquor from one quart of oysters. When 
 just boiling season with salt, pepper and 
 butter, and when plump and curled at 
 the edges, dip out and serve on well- 
 browned squares of toasted graham 
 bread. 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 87 
 
Meats 
 
 The beef creature is divided down the 
 middle of the backbone into sides or 
 halves, which are shipped to aU sections 
 of the country. The next cut is purely 
 local and divides into fore and hindquar- 
 ters, leaving as many ribs on the fore- 
 quarter as the butcher desires. A com- 
 mon practice, at least in the east, is to 
 leave ten ribs on the forequarter. 
 
 The shoulder blade begins on the fifth 
 rib and the five ribs from the neck to 
 the shoulder blade are called chuck; the 
 next five, whether on hind or forequar- 
 ter, are the prime ribs, and ihe eleventh 
 is what is often called the tip of the 
 sirloin, from its position, when hung up. 
 One reason this is prized so highly is 
 that in hanging, there is a constant tend- 
 ency to force the meat juices toward 
 this portion, making the roast juicy as 
 well as tender. 
 
 The neck piece will furnish stews or 
 Hamburg steak for the least expenditure. 
 It is often used for mincemeat. From 
 the chuck ribs, small steaks and roasts 
 of good flavor may be obtained, while 
 for a pot roast, choose a portion from 
 the back of the forequarter. It will in-, 
 elude some of the vertebrae, which wiU 
 help to swell the stock kettle. 
 
 The cut sometimes called sticking 
 piece, whose name is suggestive of its 
 position on the under side of the neck, 
 is very satisfactory braised or cooked in 
 hot water with herbs and spices, and 
 served with a tomato sauce. 
 
 Another cut called rattle rand, con- 
 tains the thin, flat ends of the chuck 
 and prime ribs, and joins the stick- 
 ing piece. It is no misnomer, espe- 
 cially at the thin end where the rattle is 
 plain. This is oftenest used for corn- 
 ing. 
 
 The hindquarter cuts are much more 
 familiar. Here are found the most of 
 the roasts and steaks and the economical 
 cuts depend to some measure on local 
 demand. An unsalable portion, in one 
 section of the country, may be cheap, 
 while in another it is better known, and 
 therefore somewhat higher in price. 
 
 From the ribs toward the hips, the 
 muscles covering the backbone are called 
 loin. The one on the outside is the sir- 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
9Q MEATS 
 
 loin, knighted by one of England's kings. 
 The inner muscle, dry but tender, is 
 known as tenderloin. The tenderloin 
 is often roasted as a fillet, larded" with 
 salt pork to supply the fat it lacks. Next 
 come the muscles just over the hip bones 
 called rump. If cut correctly this is 
 tender, but is boneless and lacks the in- 
 describable flavor the bone imparts to 
 meat. Between the rump and the round 
 is a wedgeshaped piece called the aitch 
 bone. This is sometimes inexpensive, 
 and makes an excellent roast. The price 
 usually varies, being higher in direct 
 ratio to the number of pounds. If the 
 butcher will cut eight Spounds, it is de- 
 cidedly an economical choice. 
 
 The round is divided into upper, lower 
 and vein cuts. The upper takes its name 
 from the position on the butcher's block, 
 and is the choicest ; the lower is good for 
 braising or any casserole use, while the 
 vein is the muscle on the front part of 
 the leg. The first three slices make very 
 good steak, or the whole makes an eco- 
 nomical rqast. See Pages 12 and 13. 
 
 The longer meat is hung, the tenderer 
 becomes the fiber, but if allowed to ripen 
 too long the meat is unhealthful. The 
 craving for "gamey" meat is usually 
 an acquired one and leads to digestive 
 disorders. If beef is clear in color, firm 
 yet springy to the touch, well marbled 
 or streaked with fat of a clear yellowish 
 tinge and with a thick rim of fat on the 
 outside, the meat will be satisfactory. 
 
 Meat should be removed from the 
 paper as soon as it comes from the mar- 
 ket, as the paper absorbs the juices. 
 Wipe with a damp cheesecloth or bit of 
 linen but never place fresh meat or poul- 
 try in water to soak even for five min- 
 utes, as cold water extracts the juices. 
 
 In roasting meats allow fifteen min- 
 utes to heat the piece through and ten 
 minutes for each pound if liked rare, or 
 if wanted well done, twelve minutes ad- 
 ditional for each pound. For poultry^ 
 game and pork, allow fifteen minutes for 
 each pound. 
 
 Boast Fillet of Beef 
 
 Wipe with a damp cloth, fold the thin 
 end under, trim and skewer into shape. 
 Lard the upper side, sprinkle with salt 
 and pepper and dredge with flour. Put 
 some small pieces of salt pork into a 
 pan; when it is hot add the meat, and 
 bake about thirty minutes in a hot oven. 
 
ItEMORAKDA 91 
 
94 HEATS 
 
 brush it over with melted butter, dredge 
 with flour and salt and roast in a hot 
 oven, basting occasionally, for half or 
 three-quarters of an hour. To this may 
 be added bits of cold steak or corned 
 beef, chopped fine, but if cooked meat is 
 used, add the yolk of an egg to bind it 
 together. Make a rich brown gravy to 
 serve with it. 
 
 Oven Stew 
 
 Buy two or three pounds of the shin 
 of beef (from the small end). Have 
 the bone broken into three or four pieces. 
 After wiping it with a danip cloth, re- 
 move all the meat from the bone and cut 
 into small pieces for serving. Scrape 
 the marrow from the bone and place in 
 a kettle and in it, brown first the meat, 
 then the vegetables cut in cubes, — ^half 
 an onion and one carrot. Now dredge 
 well with flour and salt, adding about 
 a tablespoon of browned flour to give 
 color. Add one or two whole cloves, one- 
 half cup of tomato or a little tomato 
 catsup, then the pieces of bone. Cook in 
 the oven in a deep iron meat-pan for 
 three or four hours, adding potatoes, cut 
 in cubes, one hour before serving. 
 
 Spanish Steak 
 
 Season with salt, pepper and butter, 
 three pounds of round steak, cut two 
 and one-half inches thick. Place in the 
 oven in a pan with a little water, and 
 cook thirty minutes, then cover with a 
 layer of sliced raw onions. Cook three- 
 quarters of an hour, then add a layer of 
 sliced tomatoes, cook until tender, 
 sprinkle with grated cheese and when 
 browned serve with a gravy made from 
 the liquor in the pan. 
 
 Spiced Beef 
 
 Cover five pounds of fresh beef with 
 cold water. Heat very gradually. When 
 simmering, season with salt, pepper, a 
 few blades of mace, two dozen cloves 
 and the same of allspice. Simmer gently 
 until the meat is in shreds, adding more 
 water if necessary. When done remove 
 the spice and turn into a plain mold. 
 Turn out on a platter and serve with 
 slices of hard cooked egg, lemon and 
 parsley. 
 
MEMORANDA 93 
 
96 MEATS 
 
 Meat Ball Stew 
 
 Season a pound of Hamburg steak to 
 taste and roll into tiny balls about the 
 size of a walnut. Boil slowly an hour, 
 and then add a third of a cup of rice. 
 The meat balls keep their shape, and 
 make a delicious stew. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets 
 
 Broil lamb chops slightly and lay in 
 a large baking dish. Now fry together 
 in one ounce of butter two small onions 
 chopped fine, pne green pepper, two toma- 
 toes and six large fresh mushrooms, add 
 a cup of broth and season with salt and 
 pepper, a teaspoon of curry powder and 
 thicken with a tablespoon of flour. Pour 
 over the chops, garnish the edges with 
 boiled new- potatoes and bake twenty 
 minutes. Serve with boiled rice. 
 
 Bice with Larrib or Mutton 
 
 Line a buttered baking dish with a 
 wall of rice about an inch in thickness. 
 Fill the center with cold roast or boiled 
 mutton, chopped small and freed from 
 bone and gristle. Season to taste with 
 salt and white pepper ; add a little onion 
 juice and moisten with gravy. Cover 
 with a layer of the rice and bake, cov- 
 ered, in a moderate oven for half an 
 hour. Then remove the cover, spread 
 lightly with soft butter, and leave 
 in the oven until delicately browned. 
 Chicken or veal may be used in this 
 way. Serve with cream or tomato sauce. 
 
 Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon 
 
 Wipe six Frenched chops cut one and 
 one-half inches thick. Split the meat 
 on them in halves, cutting clear to the 
 bone. Cook together till delicately 
 browned one tablespoon of onion and 
 one and a half tablespoons of butter; 
 remove the onion, add half a cup of 
 chopped mushrooms, and cook five min- 
 utes; then add two tablespoons of flour, 
 three tablespoons of brown stock, one 
 teaspoon of chopped parsley, and sea- 
 soning of salt and cayenne. Spread this 
 mixture between the chops, press them 
 lightly together, wrap in buttered paper 
 cases and broil over a clear fire, moving 
 constantly, for ten minutes. Serve with 
 espagnole sauce. 
 
MEMORANDA 95 
 
98 MEATS 
 
 Yeal Birds 
 
 Cut two pounds of thin veal steak 
 into small squares, rejecting all bone. 
 Season lightly with pepper and salt. 
 Have ready a dressing of cracker crximbs, 
 moistened with cream and well seasoned. 
 Place a tablespoon of the dressing in 
 the center of each square, roll the meat 
 and skewer in shape with a toothpick. 
 Fry a golden brown or bake in the 
 oven. 
 
 Boast Turkey 
 
 Insist on having the bird with the feet 
 on, be it chicken or turkey, as the ten- 
 dons may then be easily removed. Make 
 a cut through the skin at the bend of 
 the knee joint until the tendons are ex- 
 posed; insert a trussing skewer under 
 each and pull gently with a slight twist. 
 Cut off the feet, clean and use for soup. 
 Pick clean of pin feathers; even if the 
 bird has been already drawn it is safe to 
 look for lungs and windpipe. The former 
 are found on either side of the backbone 
 imbedded between the ribs. Remove 
 every trace. Make a cut at one side un- 
 der the wing to remove crop and wind- 
 pipe as the appearance of the roasted 
 fowl will not then be marred. 
 
 Singe over two tablespoons of alcohol 
 lighted in a shallow tin plate. Scrub the 
 bird inside and out with cheesecloth 
 dipped in warm water. Pold back the 
 neck skin and with a sharp vegetable 
 knife sever the neck close to the body. 
 Cook with heart and liver for gravy. 
 Stuff with any desired dressing, using 
 only enough in the breast to plump it 
 well. Fold the neck skin back, bend the 
 wings over this and fasten with skewers. 
 When the chicken is stuffed truss the 
 drumsticks closely and fasten securely 
 with skewers. Remember the fewer pro- 
 jecting corners the more juicy and uni- 
 formly cooked will' be the roasted bird. 
 Follow the time table for cooking meats 
 as given on Page 90. 
 
 Turkey a la Savoy 
 
 Select small pieces of cold turkey, 
 preferably the breast; cover them with 
 olive oil and lemon juice and place in 
 the ice box until needed. Prepare a 
 rich sauce, by heating in the double 
 boiler, half a pint of cream; and when 
 near the boiling point, season with the 
 juice of one onion, salt, pepper and a 
 
MEUORANDA 
 
 97 
 
100 MEATS 
 
 little powdered mace. Arrange around 
 the sides of a deep baking dish dia- 
 monds of fried bread, and fill with alter- 
 nate layers of the turkey that has been 
 carefully drained, and lie cream sauce. 
 Sprinkle the top with a little grated 
 cheese and brown in a quick oven. 
 Serve in the baking dish, garnished with 
 fried parsley. 
 
 Turkey with Tomato Sauce 
 
 Mince cold turkey and prepare the 
 sauce by stewing half a can of tomatoes, 
 to which has been added a bay leaf, a 
 teaspoon of sugar, a saltspoon of salt and 
 a pinch of curry powder, for half an 
 hour; strain and add a teaspoon of meat 
 extract, a tablespoon of butter and a 
 tablespoon of grated bread crumbs. Re- 
 turn to the fire, and stir in the turkey 
 and a dozen button mushrooms, that have 
 been cut in two. When thoroughly 
 heated, fill individual paper cases, cover 
 the tops with browned bread crumbs, and 
 serve immediately. 
 
 Turkey Dumplings 
 
 This is an old-fashioned New Eng- 
 land dish, much esteemed by our Puri- 
 tan forefathers. Make a rich shortcake 
 dough, rolling it out on the bread board, 
 and cut into circular pieces, about four 
 inches in diameter; spread each piece 
 generousty with butter, and place in the 
 center of each a tablespoon of turkey 
 prepared as follows : chop a cup of cold 
 turkey, not too fine; add a tablespoon of 
 the dressing, and a stalk of minced cel- 
 ery, and mix well, moistening with a 
 little giblet gravy. Fold the paste over, 
 lapping the edges; and form into balls 
 with the hands; arrange in a deep bak- 
 ing dish, and bake twenty minutes in a 
 quick oven. Serve the dumplings with 
 a bechamel sauce. 
 
 Souffle a la Reine 
 
 In a double boiler, cook one table- 
 spoon of butter with one teaspoon of 
 flour and add slowly, stirring constantly, 
 one cup of scalded milk; season with 
 one-half teaspoon of salt, a little 
 cayenne, one teaspoon of onion juice 
 and a quarter of a teaspoon of celery 
 salt. Remove from the fire when the 
 sauce is slightly thickened and add one 
 tablespoon of chopped parsley, the well 
 beaten yolks of three eggs, one-half cup 
 each of cold turkey and boiled ham 
 
MEMORANDA 99 
 
102 MEATS 
 
 mineed fine. If preferred) one cup of 
 minced turkey may be used in place of 
 the combination. Stir the mixture over 
 the fire for a moment, then set it aside 
 to cool. When ready to bake the souffle, 
 beat the whites of the three eggs very 
 stifi, fold them lightly into the turkey 
 mixture, and fiOll this into buttered 
 ramekins, making them three-quarters 
 fuU. Bake in a very quick oven for 
 about fifteen minutes, and serve imme- 
 diately to prevent falling. If a baking 
 dish is used instead of ramekins, bake 
 a little longer. 
 
 Bucks Braised 
 
 Draw and singe a pair of ducks, wipe 
 them inside and out with a damp Cheese- 
 cloth. Line a small pan with thin slices 
 of bacon, sprinkle the bottom with 
 minced parsley, thyme, grated lemon 
 peel and a little finely chopped onion. 
 Lay the ducks in, cover with a sliced 
 carrot, three or four whole cloves, a table- 
 spoon of currant jelly and a cup of stock. 
 Set over the fire and let simmer one hour, 
 basting frequently. Slice one large 
 turnip,^ fry it in hot butter, turn into 
 the saucepan, take up the ducks and set 
 to keep warm; let the turnip cook for 
 ten minutes; take the slices up, arrange 
 on the dish around the ducks, strain the 
 gravy, thicken it with a little browned 
 flour, pour over, and serve the ducks 
 very hot with currant jelly and lemon 
 sliced. 
 
 Spring Chicken 
 
 Split the chickens down the back as 
 for broiling, lay them breast down in a 
 baking pan, filling the depression inside 
 the ribs with equal quantities of finely 
 minced onion, carrot, celery and peas; 
 season~with salt and a dash of paprika, 
 adding a generous lump of butter for 
 each bird. Pour into the baking pan 
 half a cup of hot water, to which has 
 been added two tablespoons of mush- 
 room catsup and cook in a hot oven for 
 half an hour or until the vegetables are 
 tender, basting frequently. Remove the 
 vegetables and turn the chickens to 
 brown the breasts slightly. Serve them 
 covered with a sauce made from the 
 same vegetables moistened with a very 
 little hot cream. Garnish with tiny 
 squares of fried hominy and sweet po- 
 tato croquettes. 
 
MEUOPAHDA 101 
 
104 MEATS 
 
 Shaker Fricasseed Chicken 
 
 Cut up the chicken as for an ordinary 
 fricassee, put in a kettle with a per- 
 forated stand at the bottom to prevent 
 burning, use water enough to steam and 
 cook one hour, then add salt. When 
 the meat is perfectly tender put it in 
 the oven and brown thoroughly, then 
 add rich cream to the gravy, thickening 
 it with a little flour and butter, and 
 seasoning to taste. Serve in deep dishes. 
 
 Ham 
 
 Twenty-four hours before a ham is to 
 be used scrub it thoroughly with a veg- 
 etable brush and cold, weak borax water. 
 Then put into cold water and soak for 
 twenty-four hours. If it is to be baked, 
 it requires first about four hours' boiling. 
 Use a big kettle, as the ham must be 
 completely covered with water. Let it 
 come to the boil very slowly. Remove 
 the scum which rises. When it begins 
 to boil add twelve whole cloves, twelve 
 peppercorns, the outside stalks of one 
 bunch of celery, two chopped onions, 
 two cloves of garlic, one chopped carrot 
 and turnip, two bay leaves, two blades 
 of mace, twelve allspice berries and one 
 quart of cider or a cup of vinegar. 
 Never allow the ham to boil, merely 
 to simmer slowly, that is one secret 
 of making it tender. Allow about 
 twenty-five minutes or half an hour 
 to the pound. If the ham is to be 
 used cold you can add to its tender 
 juiciness by allowing it to stand in the 
 pot liquor till nearly cold. Then lift 
 it out, peel off the skin and roll it in 
 dried bread crumbs with which three 
 tablespoons of brown sugar have been 
 sifted. Set it in ' the oven till the 
 crumbs form a crisp brown crust. If 
 the ham is to be baked, take it from the 
 water, drain thoroughly, then take off the 
 skin except around the shank, where it 
 may be cut in Vandykes with a sharp 
 pointed knife. Cover with crumbs and 
 stick it full of cloves, then set in a mod- 
 erate oven to bake for two hours. If 
 you prefer the ham glazed, allow it to 
 cool as for boiled ham, then skin, wipe 
 dry and brush all over with beaten egg. 
 Mix one cup of sifted cracker crumbs, a 
 dash of salt and pepper, two tablespoons 
 of melted butter and cream enough to 
 make the crumbs into a paste. Spread 
 it evenly over the ham, set in a moder- 
 ate oven and bake tiU brown, then serve 
 
MEMORANDA 103 
 
106 MEATS 
 
 hot with a brown sauce flavored with 
 half a glass of sherry or champagne, if 
 liked. When a baked or boiled ham goes 
 to the table wrap about the unsightly- 
 bone a ruffle of white tissue paper, gar- 
 nish with hard boiled eggs cut in quar- 
 ters. 
 
 Potted Ham 
 
 To four cups of finely minced ham add 
 a seasoning of paprika and allspice, with 
 just enough clarified butter to make it 
 into a paste, then press into small jars 
 and pour over it melted butter, which 
 will harden and preserve it as paraffine 
 does jelly. 
 
 Scalloped Ham 
 
 Make a thin, well seasoned white sauce 
 and add to it cold boiled ham cut into 
 small cubes. Pour into scallop dishes, 
 cover with buttered crumbs and brown 
 delicately in the oven. Garnish with 
 rings of hard boiled white of egg and 
 sprigs of blanched celery. 
 
 Broiled Ham 
 
 It should be cut in thin slices; put 
 between the wires of a broiler and cook 
 for five minutes, turning frequently, 
 over a clear, hot fire. Serve on a hot 
 platter with poached eggs. 
 
 Corned Tongue 
 
 Wash and trim out the roots of one 
 or more fresh beef tongues. Put them 
 into a stone jar, cover with brine, 
 lay a plate over the meat and on this a 
 stone to keep the meat under the brine. 
 Cover securely, keep in a cold place and 
 in a week they will be ready for use, 
 although they will keep in the brine for 
 several weeks in cold weather. 
 
 Brine for Corning 
 
 Put two quarts of water, three-quar- 
 ters of a pound of salt, a quarter of a 
 poimd of brown sugar and a fourth of 
 an ounce of saltpeter together into a 
 granite saucepan and heat to boiling. 
 Cool and strain through cheesecloth. 
 Pour it over the meat and add a tea- 
 spoon of pepper, half a teaspoon of 
 ginger, three bay leaves and two cloves 
 of garlic. This amount of brine is 
 sufficient for haK a dozen tongues. Calf 
 tengue may be corned in the same way 
 
MEMORANDA 105 
 
108 
 
 MEATS 
 
 and if desired, a piece of beef may be 
 corned in the same brine with the 
 tongties. 
 
 Sausage and Apples 
 
 Core four apples and slice across in 
 one-fourth inch slices. Bake the sau- 
 sages on a rack in a dripping pan. Fry 
 the apples brown, using some of the 
 fat extracted from the sausage. Serve 
 on the same platter with the sausage. 
 
 Skewered Liver 
 
 Alternate small pieces of liver and 
 bacon on skewers and bake in the oven 
 or broil until done. This is a convenient 
 and dainty way to serve a small amount. 
 
 Sweetbreads 
 
 Sweetbreads should be purchased as 
 fresh as possible, and as they spoil very 
 quickly, they should receive attention as 
 soon as they arrive from the market. 
 Soak in cold water an hour or longer, re- 
 newing the water several times to extract 
 aU the blood. Drain and let simmer in 
 boiling salted water half an hour or un- 
 til tender. Drain again, reserving the 
 broth for subsequent cooking, and cover 
 with cold water to keep them white and 
 firm. When they are cooled, wipe them 
 dry. Bemove all the tubes, outside skin 
 and fibers, taking care not to break the 
 sweetbreads into pieces. Sprinkle with 
 salt and pepper and put into a cold place 
 until needed. Sweetbreads should al- 
 ways be parboiled in this manner, what- 
 ever the subsequent mode of preparation. 
 It insures their thorough cooking and 
 makes them thicker, whiter and firmer. 
 
 Lyownaise Tripe 
 
 Clean and boil a fresh honeycomb 
 tripe, then cut into strips about two 
 and a half inches long and half an inch 
 wide sufiflcient to make two cups. Put 
 in a pan in the oven for a few minutes 
 to draw out the water, then drain. 
 Melt a tablespoon of butter, add a tea-- 
 spoon of finely chopped onion, cook to 
 a delicate brown and add the tripe, a 
 teaspoon of finely minced parsley, a tea- 
 spoon of vinegar and salt and pepper to 
 taste. Simmer five minutes and serve 
 plain or on toast. 
 
MEMORANDA ■ 107 
 
Meat and Fish Sauces 
 
 White Sauce 
 
 Cream one tablespoon each of flour 
 and butter until thoroughly mixed, add 
 to one cup of milk, cream or white stock, 
 and cook until thickened, stirring until 
 the flour and butter are well mixed. 
 Season with salt and pepper. 
 
 Espagnole Sauce 
 
 Put four tablespoons of butter into 
 a spider, and in it brown crisply one 
 slice of carrot, one slice of onion, a bit 
 of bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, a sprig of 
 parsley and six peppercorns. Add five 
 tablespoons of flour, and when well 
 browned add gradually one pint of brown 
 stock, beating to a creamy smoothness 
 with a wire whisk. Strain and season 
 with salt and pepper. 
 
 Brown Sauce 
 
 Melt a tablespoon of butter, add a 
 tablespoon of flour, cook, stirring con- 
 tinually xmtil a light brown, then add a 
 cup of rich gravy, meat broth or water 
 and stir until it thickens. 
 
 Olive Brown Sauce 
 
 Cut two dozen large olives into nar- 
 row spiral strips. Melt and brown two 
 tablespoons of butter, add two table- 
 spoons of flour and brown again. Add 
 gradually two cups of brown stock and 
 stir until thick and smooth, add ten 
 drops of onion juice, salt and pepper to 
 taste, one tablespoon each of walnut 
 and mushroom catsup, one tablespoon of 
 Worcestershire sauce, and the olives, 
 simmer for five minutes and serve with 
 duck. 
 
 Spanish Sauce 
 
 Simmer together for ten minutes three 
 tablespoons of vinegar, one tablespoon 
 of chopped green pepper, a bay leaf and 
 sprig of parsley; strain into a pint of 
 plain white sauce, add a teaspoon of 
 finely chopped chives and the zest of a 
 lemon. 
 
KEMOBANbA 
 
 169 
 
112 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES 
 
 Tomato Sauce 
 
 Melt a f oTirtli of a cup of butter, add 
 a fourth of a cup of flour and gradually 
 two cups of water, one and a half cups 
 of stewed and strained tomatoes, half 
 a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, if 
 liked, and salt and pepper to season. A 
 can of mushrooms may also be added if 
 desired. 
 
 Sauce Piquante 
 
 Mix one teaspoon of onion juice, a 
 tablespoon of Worcestershire, the juice 
 of a small lemon, three tablespoons of 
 olive oil and celery salt and pepper to 
 taste. Just before serving add a table- 
 spoon of finely minced parsley. 
 
 Sauce for Salmon Loaf 
 
 Heat one pint of milk and thicken 
 with one tablespoon of cornstarch and 
 two tablespoons of butter, rubbed to- 
 gether. Add the liquor from one can of 
 salmon, one tablespoon each of tomato 
 ketchup and Worcestershire with a pinch 
 of cayenne. Pour over a well beaten egg, 
 beat well and serve. 
 
 Mousseline Sauce 
 
 Beat a tablespoon of butter to a 
 cream; add the yolks of three eggs, one 
 at a time, then add three tablespoons of 
 lemon juice, half a teaspoon of salt and 
 a dash of cayenne. Cook over hot water 
 until the sauce thickens, then add 
 another tablespoon of butter and half a 
 cup of sweet cream. When the sauce is 
 hot, serve. It should be quite thick and 
 frothy. 
 
 Sauce Bearnaise 
 
 Put half a cup of butter into a small 
 saucepan and rub to a cream, add a 
 fourth of a teaspoon of salt, a dash of 
 cayenne and the yolks of two eggs, and 
 beat well, then stir in a tablespoon of 
 lemon juice and gradually half a cup of 
 boiling water. Cook over hot water, 
 stirring constantly until of a creamy 
 consistency, add a teaspoon of finely 
 chopped parsley and fresh tarragon and 
 serve at once. 
 
 Sauce Trianon 
 
 Omit the parsley and tarragon anJ 
 add gradually while cooking one and a 
 half tablespoons of sherry wine. 
 
MEMORANDA HI 
 
114 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES 
 
 Bmice Figaro 
 
 Omit the tarragon and add two table- 
 spoons of tomatoes 'whicli have been 
 stewed, strained and cooked to a pulp. 
 
 Bechamel Sauce 
 
 Cook one and one-half cups of white 
 stock with a slice each of onion and car- 
 rot, a bay leaf, a sprig of parsley and 
 six pepTiercoms, until reduced to one 
 cup. Brown one-fourth cup of flour in 
 one-fourth cup of butter, add the 
 strained stock and beat until smooth. 
 When cooked beat into it a cup of hot 
 cream and season to taste with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 Egg Sauce 
 
 Melt a tablespoon of butter, add a 
 tablespoon of flour and gradually a cup 
 of half milk and half water, stirring con- 
 stantly until it thickens. Add a tea- 
 spoon of finely minced parsley, salt and 
 paprika to season and the finely minced 
 yolk of a hard-cooked egg. Take from 
 the fire, add the yolks of two eggs beaten 
 with a tablespoon of lemon juice and 
 serve. 
 
 Orange Sauce for Bucks 
 
 After removing the ducks from the 
 pan add sufficient veal stock or chicken 
 to make a pint of liquid. Add to this 
 a tablespoon of chopped onion, a small 
 carrot chopped, a bay leaf and a bunch 
 of parsley, and let aU simmer an hour, 
 adding stock as the liquid evaporates. 
 When done, strain and add the grated 
 rind of a lemon, a seasoning of salt and 
 a dash of cayenne. Remove from the 
 fire and stir in a tablespoon of butter, 
 the juice of two sour oranges, and a 
 tablespoon of finely chopped celery. Beat 
 three egg yolks in a warmed bowl, pour 
 in the hot sauce, and cook in a double 
 boiler until as thick as double cream. 
 
 Orange Marmalade Sauce 
 
 Put into a saucepan one tablespoon of 
 butter, one tablespoon of flour, one-third 
 of a teaspoon of salt and a slight dusting 
 of paprika. When brown add slowly one 
 oup of rich brown stock and cook and 
 stir until thick and smooth. Add, if 
 liked, a gill of sherry and three table- 
 spoons of Scotch marmalade, and beat 
 
UT&UORkSVIk 
 
116 MEAT AND FISH SAUCES 
 
 hard until the marmalade ia entirely 
 and smoothly blended with the sauce. 
 This sauce is particularly suitable to 
 serve with quail and with grouse. 
 
 Bread Sauce 
 
 Heat one cup of milk in a double 
 boiler, add one tablespoon of butter, 
 one teaspoon of onion juice, salt and 
 pepper to taste. When very hot stir in 
 lightly half a cup of bread crumbs dried 
 in the oven. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce 
 
 Cream one-half cup of butter, add one 
 teaspoon of flour, the yolks of two eggs, 
 one saltspoou of salt, one quarter salt- 
 ^oon of cayenne peoper and very grad- 
 ually the juice of one-half a lemon. 
 Pour over this one-half cup of boiling 
 water and cook over boiling^ water uatil 
 thickened, stirring all the time. 
 
MEMORANDA 115 
 
Padding Sauces 
 
 Caramel Sauce 
 
 Butter the inside of a granits sauce- 
 pan, add two ounces of unsweetened 
 chocolate and melt over hot water; add 
 two cups of light brown sugar and mix 
 well; then add an ounce of butter and 
 half a cup of rich milk. Cook until the 
 mixture forms a soft ball when tested 
 in cold water, then take from the fire 
 and flavor with vanilla. Put into a 
 sauceboat and pour while hot over each 
 service of ice cream. If there is delay 
 in serving, keep hot by standing in a 
 vessel of hot water. As this simple dress- 
 ing is poured over the cold cream it 
 immediately hardens, forming a caramel 
 coating. 
 
 Madeira Sabayon Sauce 
 
 Put into the inner vessel of a double 
 boiler four egg yolks and two tablespoons 
 of powdered sugar. Have the water in 
 the outer vessel rapidly boiling, and whip 
 the sauce rapidly for three minutes. 
 Pour in slowly half a cup of Madeira 
 wine, stir for two minutes longer; take 
 from the fire and strain over the pud- 
 ding. 
 
 Pudding Sauce 
 
 Beat two eggs until very light; then 
 add one cup of confectioners' sugar and 
 one cup of thick cream. Beat until the 
 whole is the consistency of whipped 
 cream. 
 
 Hard Sauce 
 
 The hard sauce which accompanies 
 plum pudding is seldom made exactly as 
 it should be. First, if possible, use un- 
 salted butter or butter from which the 
 salt has been well washed, then add to 
 it powdered sugar, never granulated, or 
 what is called confectioners' sugar. 
 Beat one cup of the butter till very 
 creamy, then add two cups of the 
 powdered sugar, then gradually the 
 unbeaten whites pf two eggfs and the 
 flavoring. ' Set it on the ice to chill. 
 When ready to serve, put it in a cut 
 glass dish and with the point of a tea- 
 spoon mark little scales all over the 
 mound. 
 
DaaiOBAmoA. 
 
 IIT 
 
120 PUDDING SAUCES 
 
 Coffee Sauce 
 
 Beat the yolks of two e^s with one- 
 fourth cup of sugar, add half a cup of 
 freshly made, clear, strong, black coffee 
 and cook over hot water, stirring con- 
 stantly, until it commences to thicken. 
 When cold add a cup of whipped cream. 
 Serve ice cream in glasses and' heap the 
 sauce over the top. 
 
 Pistachio Sauce 
 
 Whip a cup of cream until* stiff and 
 dry, add one-third cup of sugar, flavor 
 with pistachio and tint a. delicate green. 
 Have ready half a cup of blanched and 
 finely chopped pistachio nuts. Serve ice 
 cream in sherbet cups, put the sauce on 
 top and sprinkle with the chopped nuts. 
 
 Orange Foam Sauce 
 
 Beat one egg yolk until thick and 
 lemon colored and add gradually one- 
 half cup of powdered sugar. Beat thor- 
 oughly and add one teaspoon of orange 
 extract. 
 
 Griddle Cake Syrup 
 
 Boil two cups of brown sugar with one 
 cup of water until thick, clear and 
 brown. 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 ll9 
 
V^etablcs 
 
 Spinach (Swiss style) 
 
 After the spinacli has been well 
 washed and boiled with a little bakiag 
 soda in the water to keep it green, put it 
 in a strainer and squeeze out every bit 
 of water. Now run it through the finest 
 knife of the food chopper twice. Chop 
 also very fine, a small onion or half a 
 large one, and saute in a tablespoon of 
 butter, not allowing it to brown. Add 
 half a tablespoon of flour. When 
 blended add one cup of well flavored 
 stock, stir until free from lumps, then 
 mix in the spinach. Season to taste 
 with salt and pepper, and add a table- 
 spoon of grated cheese. Serve garnished 
 with slices of hard-cooked eggs. 
 
 Salsify Fritters 
 
 Wash, scrape and put the salsify in 
 cold water to prevent discoloration; cut 
 in inch lengths, cook in boiling salted 
 water until soft, then drain. Mash and 
 season with butter, salt and pepper. 
 Shape in .small flat cakes, roll in flour 
 and saute in fresh butter, browning 
 first one side and then the other. 
 
 Cucumber Fritters 
 
 Pare fresh, green, not too large cu- 
 cumbers, cut in long, narrow pieces, and 
 drop into ice water to crisp. Make a 
 batter of one cup of flour sifted with 
 half a teaspoon of salt, one teaspoon of 
 baking powder and a pinch of cayenne, 
 adding two whole eggs alternately with 
 half a cup of ice water, then add a table- 
 spoon of olive oil and the juice of a 
 small lemon; beat in at the last moment 
 the well beaten white of an egg and set 
 away in the ice box until thoroughly 
 chilled. Drain and dry the cuciunbers, 
 dip them in this batter and fry brown in 
 deep hot fat. Drain on soft paper, 
 sprinkle with salt and mustard, or 
 cayenne, very, very lightly if the latter 
 spice is used, and serve very hot. 
 
 Asparagus in Aspic Jelly 
 
 Boil a large bunch of asparagrus tips 
 in salted water until tendei:, carefully 
 saving the liquor in which they were 
 cooked as the foundation for the jelly. 
 This is made by adding to the asparagus 
 
HBUeRi)^ND& 121 
 
124 VEOBTABLES 
 
 water, a teaspoon of beef extract, half 
 a teaspoon each of chopped celery and 
 carrot, one bay leaf and three whole 
 cloves; allow these ingredients to sim- 
 mer for thirty minutes, and then add 
 an ounce of gelatine that has been 
 soaked in half a cup of cold water for 
 ten minutes, stirring until the gelatine 
 is dissolved. Strain the aspic through 
 a double cloth and mold the asparagus 
 tips with alternating layers of hard- 
 boiled eggs in an ornamental mold; 
 this is easily accomplished by adding 
 with a spoon only sufficient jelly to set 
 each layer, and waiting until that is 
 hard and firm before arranging the 
 next in place; at serving time unmold, 
 garnish with bunches of cress and serve 
 with graham bread sandwiches. 
 
 Asparagus Rissoles 
 
 Boll out on the bread board half a 
 pound of rich pie crust, and with a 
 sharp knife cut into neat squares; have 
 in readiness a cup of cooked asparagus 
 tips, covered with a thick cream sauce. 
 Arrange in the center of each square 
 a teaspoon of the prepared asparagus, 
 sprinkle liberally with paprika, salt and 
 chopped parsley; then turn over the 
 paste, the edges lapping in triangle 
 form, and crimp the border with the 
 tines of a silver fork. Place the rissoles, 
 when finished, on ice for at least an 
 hour before cooking. Fry in hot fat 
 to a golden brown, arrange on a chop 
 platter with a folded hemstitched napkin 
 and garnish with crisp parsley and thin 
 slices of lemon. 
 
 Moished Sweet Potatoes 
 
 Bake the potatoes, cut in halves 
 lengthwise and carefully scoop out the 
 potato. Mash well, add a little butter, 
 pepper and salt and a little cream or 
 milk; beat until creamy; return to the 
 shells, heaping lightly and place in the 
 oven to reheat. 
 
 Candied Sweet Potatoes 
 
 Select potatoes of medium size and 
 boil until nearly done. Peel and cut in 
 slices. Lay these in a baking pan; melt 
 one-half cup butter, add one-half cup 
 sugar and stir until sugar is melted. 
 Put one teaspoon of this on each slice 
 and bake until brown. Potatoes should 
 not be sliced thin. 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
126 TEOETABLES 
 
 Sweet Potato Fritters 
 
 Take one pint of mashed sweet pota- 
 toes, two eggs, half a saltspoon of salt, 
 a cup of pastry flour and a teaspoon of 
 baking powder, mix together with a 
 little sweet milk and drop . tablespoons 
 of the batter into hot fat, frying a del- 
 icate brown; serve with a tomato sauce. 
 
 Potato Croquettes 
 
 Two cups of mashed white potatoes, 
 two tablespoons of cream, a teaspoon of 
 onion juice, a teaspoon of salt, a dash 
 of nutmeg; yolks of two eggs, a table- 
 spoon of chopped parsley, butter the size 
 of a walnut, a dash of cayenne. Beat 
 the eggs until light, and add to them 
 the potatoes, then add all the other in- 
 gredients. Mix and turn into a small 
 saucepan. Stir over the fire until it is 
 thoroughly heated through. The mix- 
 ture will then leave the side of the pan 
 without sticking to it. Take from the 
 fire, and when cool form into cylinderd. 
 EoU first in egg and then in bread 
 crumbs and fry in boiling fat. This will 
 make about twelve croquettes. 
 
 Potato Custards 
 
 Boil and mash six large white pota- 
 toes; add two well beaten eggs, butter, 
 pepper, salt and one cup of hot milk; 
 beat until very smooth and light; add a 
 little sugar and a dash of nutmeg. 
 Lightly fill greased custard cups and bake 
 a delicate brown. 
 
 Potato Pyramid 
 
 Choose small round potatoes of even 
 size, pare, drop in cold water, and let 
 stand an hour. Drain and dry, then 
 drop into deep fat, boiling hot, and fry 
 to a rich golden brown. Skim out, drain 
 on paper, then serve pyramid fashion on 
 a napkin laid over a hot dish. 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 Soak one pint of dried green peas 
 over night in water to cover. In the 
 morning place in a crock, cover with 
 water and add ona tablespoon of sugar 
 and one teasx)Oon of salt. Cook for 
 eight or nine hours, strain off the water 
 and serve with butter or cream sauce. 
 
UEMOBANDA 
 
 125 
 
128 VEGETABLES 
 
 Beet Fritters a la Dickens 
 
 Cut beets, after boiling, into slices an 
 eightii of an inch thick; mince a few 
 mushrooms with one-eighth their bulk 
 in onions; press between two slices of 
 beet and dip in a batter made by beating 
 the yolk of an egg, adding a tablespoon 
 of oil or melted butter, four of flour, 
 and lastly the whipped white, with salt 
 and pepper to taste; fry these fritters in 
 very hot fat. 
 
 Squash Puff 
 
 Press dry cooked squash through a 
 sieve; to a half -pint add two tablespoons 
 of melted butter, quarter of a cup of 
 milk, seasoning of salt and pepper, and 
 two beaten egg yolks. Mix thoroughly, 
 fold in two beaten egg whites, and turn 
 into a buttered mold, set in a pan of 
 hot water and bake in the oven xm.til 
 the center is firm. Serve turned from 
 the mold and accompanied by a rich 
 cream sauce made from one tablespoon 
 each of flour and butter with a cup of 
 scalded cream or rich milk and seasoning 
 of salt, pepper, celery salt and mace. 
 This can be baked in individual tim- 
 bale molds if desired. 
 
 Baked Huiiard Squash 
 
 Wash a hard shelled Hubbard squash 
 and cut into pieces large enough to 
 handle with ease ; it is impossible to make 
 them of uniform size. Take out the seeds 
 and pulp, being careful not to waste any 
 of the good part. Bake like potatoes 
 until a fork can pass through the meat 
 easily. Serve in the shell and eat with 
 butter and salt. 
 
 Fried Summer Squash 
 
 Wash and cut in one-half inch slices. 
 Season with salt and pepper, dip in 
 crumbs, then egg, then in crumbs again. 
 Fry in fat hot enough to brown a bit 
 of bread in sixty coxmts. 
 
 Stuffed Tomatoes 
 
 Select smooth, shapely fruit. Cut a 
 slice from the top of each and scoop 
 out the seeds and a small portion of 
 the pulp. Fry a teaspoon of chopped 
 onion in a tablespoon of butter, add a 
 cup of cooked sweetbreads, cut in small 
 pieces, half a cup of soft bread crumbs, 
 half a cup of tomato pulp, a saltspoon 
 of salt and a dusting of paprika. Mix 
 
MEMOIUJTDA 127 
 
130 VEGETABLES 
 
 well and fill the tomato shells, previously 
 dusted with salt and pepper. Cover the 
 tops with buttered crumbs and bake for 
 twenty minutes in a brisk oven. Serve 
 with Hollandaise sauce. The above pro- 
 portions are ample for six tomatoes. 
 
 Tomato Fritters 
 
 To a pint of canned or stewed toma- 
 toes add a few sprigs of celery, a slice 
 of onion, two cloves and six pepper- 
 corns; cook ten minutes, then rub 
 through a seive. Melt a fourth of a cup 
 of butter, add a fourth of a cup of flour, 
 gradually the tomatoes, stirring con- 
 stantly, and seasoning of salt, pepper 
 and sugar as needed. Cook the mixture 
 until quite thick, then remove from the 
 fire and add an egg slightly beaten. 
 Pour into a buttered shallow tin and 
 cool. Turn onto a board dusted gener- 
 ously with cracker crumbs and cut into 
 small squares or strips. Roll each piece 
 in crumbs, then in egg and again in 
 crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Serve as a 
 relish with eggs or as a garnish with 
 veal or lamb chops. 
 
 Tomatoes Parisienne 
 
 Wash and wipe firm, ripe tomatoes, 
 and cut in halves crosswise. Heat two 
 tablespoons of salad oil in a frying pan, 
 lay in the tomatoes, cut surface down, 
 and cook quickly until they are heated 
 through but not softened. Kemove to a 
 buttered baking dish and spread the 
 cooked surface with the following mix- 
 ture: Rub six hard-boiled egg yolks to 
 a paste with three tablespoons of melted 
 butter, add a teaspoon each of chopped 
 chives and of parsley, one finely-chopped 
 shallot and four medium-sized anchovies, 
 slightly freshened and finely minced. 
 Sprinkle soft bread crunibs over the 
 tomatoes and cook in a brisk oven for 
 ten minutes. The anchovies will supply 
 all the salt necessary for seasoning. 
 
 Tomato Cups with Corn Cream Filling 
 
 Remove the pulp from twelve ears of 
 sweet corn, season delicately with salt 
 and pepper, add a beaten egg, and if 
 the pulp is dry add a tablespoon of cream 
 to each cup of pulp. Wash and wipe 
 a dozen tomatoes, cut a slice from the 
 stem end and with a teaspoon remove 
 the greater portion of the pulp; dust 
 lightly with pepper and salt and fill with 
 the corn, cover with bread crumbs, dot 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 129 
 
132 VEGETABLES 
 
 with butter and bake until tbe tomatoes 
 are soft and of a rich, brown color. 
 Eemove carefully to mounds of buttered 
 toast and serve either as an entree or 
 as the main dish at a simple family 
 luncheon. 
 
 Escalloped Tomato and Cheese 
 
 Make a drawn butter sauce with two 
 tablespoons each of butter and flour; 
 cook with one cup of hot water and sea- 
 son with salt and pepper. Put a layer 
 of bread crumbs in a buttered baking 
 dish, cover with bits of tomato, then a 
 layer of crumbs followed by grated 
 cheese; continue until the dish is full, 
 having a generous sprinkling of grated 
 cheese on top. Pour over the whole the 
 hot sauce and bake in a moderate oven 
 until brown. 
 
 Corn Fritters 
 
 To two cups of grated sweet com add 
 one cup of flour sifted with one tea- 
 spoon of baking powder, two teaspoons 
 of salt and a quarter teaspoon of pa- 
 prika; add also half a cup of finely 
 chopped celery and the beaten yolks of 
 two eggs. Mix thoroughly and then fold 
 in the stiffly whipped whites of two eggs. 
 Drop by spoonfuls into hot fat and 
 slowly fry to a pale brown. The fat 
 should be about half an inch in depth 
 in the pan-deeper than is required for 
 sauteing, but not deep enough to cover 
 the fritters. 
 
 Corn Souffle 
 
 One can of com put into a chopping 
 machine and ground very fine. Take 
 three eggs and whip light, separately. 
 Add one teaspoon of melted butter. Sea- 
 son with pepper and salt. Stir in the 
 yolks, beat, cut in the whites of the eggs 
 and bake in quick oven. 
 
 Baked Beans 
 
 Soak one quart of beans over night 
 in water to cover. In the morning cover 
 with water to which one-half teaspoon 
 of soda has been added. Boil slowly 
 until the skins begin to burst and strain 
 off the water. Place in a bean crock 
 and cover the beans with liquid com- 
 posed of two cups of hot water, one- 
 qliarter cup of molasses, one-half tea- 
 spoon of mustard and one-half teaspoon 
 of salt, adding more hot water if neces- 
 
MKMOEANDA 
 
 131 
 
134 VEGETABLES 
 
 sary. Half bury one-half pound of salt 
 pork in the top of the beans and bake 
 for eight or nine hours. 
 
 Haricot Beans 
 
 Put a pint of washed beans in a clean 
 five-pound flour bag and let them lie all 
 night in a saucepan containing two 
 quarts of cold water. The next morning 
 simmer over a slow fire three hours ; lift 
 out the bag into a colander; untie the 
 string and turn the beans into a frying 
 pan with a tablespoon of butter, a gill 
 of cream and a very little finely minced 
 parsley; season to taste with salt and 
 pepper and shake over the fire until hot. 
 
 Tomatoes, Corn and Onions 
 
 Butter plentifully a deep baking dish, 
 and cover the bottom an inch deep with 
 green corn cut from the cob. Season 
 well with salt and pepper and butter, 
 then put in a layer of tomatoes peeled 
 and sliced. Season them likewise, then 
 add a layer of sliced and soaked onions. 
 Eepeat till the dish is full, letting 
 onions come on top. Cover with an 
 inverted plate, and bake until nearly 
 done — say about an hour. Then take 
 off the plate and cook fifteen minutes 
 longer. Sugar added to the seasoning 
 is to many minds an improvement. 
 
 Hulled Corn 
 
 Wash two quarts of shelled corn to re- 
 move loose bits; then place in a large 
 iron kettle with four tablespoons of 
 saleratuSj cover with cold water, let 
 come to a boil slowly and cook about an 
 hour. Eemove the kettle from fire, drain 
 off the water, then pour the corn, from 
 which the hulls will already be loosened, 
 into a large pan of water. Eub the corn 
 between the hands to loosen the hulls; 
 after taking off all those partly loosened 
 put it on again in warm water, let boil 
 about half an hour, then try, to remove 
 the rest of the hulls by rubbing as before. 
 After all hulls are removed, wash the 
 com in at least half a dozen clean waters, 
 then put on once more in warm water, 
 and when it boils drain and add fresh 
 water. Let the com cook in this last 
 ■Water until tender, salting to taste. If 
 the hulls do not come off readily let the 
 corn boil an hour longer, adding a tea- 
 spoon more saleratus. This will keep for 
 several weeks without sealing in warm 
 weather. 
 
MBMOBANDA 133 
 
136 VEGETABLES 
 
 Baked Com and Beans 
 
 It is an old dSsh with us, yet I find 
 few who have heard of it. It is in no 
 sense succotash. In sweet corn time pre- 
 pare a pot of Boston baked beans in the 
 usual way. About half an hour before 
 they are to be served take from the oven, 
 remove the pork and thoroughly stir in 
 the com, which has previously been cut 
 from, the cob, then replace in the oven. 
 Use plenty of corn. Canned corn may be 
 used. 
 
 Baked Beans Without Pork 
 
 Soak one quart of medium pea beans 
 over night or twelve hours, then parboil 
 tin the skin cracks when taken up on 
 a spoon and exposed to the cool air. Put 
 a beef bone with marrow into the pot 
 and fill with beans, adding two teaspoons 
 of salt, and water to cover. Bake slowly 
 for twelve hours, adding more water as 
 it evaporates. Before serving take off 
 the hard beans on top. 
 
 CaHbage Souffle 
 
 Shred coarsely a solid, well blanched 
 head of cabbage and cook in an abun- 
 dance of salted water until tender. Drain 
 and place in a buttered dish in layers, 
 with a slight sprinkling of grated cheese 
 between. To two tablespoons each of 
 butter and flour, add a cup of rich milk, 
 two beaten egg yolks and a saltspoon 
 each of salt and mustard, stirring over 
 the fire until it boils; then add the 
 beaten whites of the eggs. Pour this 
 over the cabbage and bake half an hour. 
 
 Gabhage with Ham 
 
 Melt a tablespoon of butter, and when 
 hot turn in three pints of white cabbage 
 shaved fine. Cover tightly and simmer 
 on the back of the range until the cab- 
 bage turns yellow. Sprinkle with a tea- 
 spoon of salt, a few grains of cayenne, 
 and a cup of minced cold boiled ham. 
 Add one-fourth cup of white wine vin- 
 egar, stir well, cover and cook slowly for 
 two hours. 
 
 Cauliflower Fritters 
 
 Separate cold, cooked cauliflower into 
 flowerets, then stir into a fritter batter. 
 See page 162. Drop the mixture by 
 small spoonfuls into hot fat, frying to 
 a golden brown, or dip each piece sepa- 
 rately into the batter, coat thoroughly 
 and fry. 
 
HEMORAKDA 
 
 135 
 
138 VEGETABLES 
 
 Brussels Sprouts 
 
 Boil one quart of sprouts in salted 
 water till tender, drain and put in a 
 baking dish. Dust with a tablespoon 
 (level) of flour, dot with bits of butter, 
 pour over a cup of cream, cover with 
 grated cheese, preferably Parmesan, and 
 brown in a hot oven. 
 
 Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts 
 
 Wash and trim a pound of fresh 
 sprouts of as uniform a size as possible; 
 plunge in boiling water when three- 
 fourths cooked, drain; plunge in cold 
 .water and drain again; add an equal 
 quantity of chestnuts also three-quarters 
 cooked; moisten with half cream and 
 half milk, season with salt and nutmeg 
 and finish the cooking in the oven. 
 
 Carrots au Jus 
 
 Simmer in boiling salted water one 
 quart of sKced winter carrots. Slowly 
 cook a quarter of a cup of chopped onion 
 in hot butter; when tender add a cup 
 of rich brown gravy or sauce, one tea- 
 spoon of chopped parsley and the drained 
 carrots, and simmer for fifteen minutes. 
 
 Turnips with Yellow Sauce 
 
 Pare and dice sufficient turnips to fill 
 a quart measure. Cook in boiling water, 
 slightly salted, until tender, drain and 
 reserve the water as a base for the sauce. 
 Cream two teaspoons of butter and a 
 dessertspoon of flour, beat in the yolks 
 of two eggs, seasoning of pepper and 
 salt, and pour on it a pint of the turnip 
 water. Cook for ten minutes, add the 
 turnip dice, heat through thoroughly and 
 serve in a hot dish. 
 
 ShaTcer Mashed Turnip 
 
 Pare and remove any bad spots, then 
 boil and mash six white turnips. Drain 
 thoroughly, add half a cup of rich 
 eream, butter the size of au egg, and 
 salt and pepper to taste. 
 
MBMOEANDA 
 
 137 
 
Salads 
 
 Mayonnaise Dressing 
 
 Chill all materials thoroughly. Place 
 the mixing bowl in a pan of ice water, 
 especially if the room be warm. If this 
 is done mayonnaise will curdle but sel- 
 dom, if at all. To the yolk of an egg add 
 a pinch of cayenne and one-half teaspoon 
 each of salt, sugar and mustard if the 
 latter flavor be liked. With a rotary 
 beater, beat into this one cup of olive oil 
 and two tablespoons of lemon juice. If 
 in spite of care it curdles, chill thor- 
 oughly by putting as large a piece of ice 
 into the bowl as possible. Take out as 
 soon as chilled and beat again. 
 
 French Dressing 
 
 To two tablespoons of lemon juice or 
 vinegar add four of olive oil. Season to 
 taste with salt and pepper. 
 
 Midsummer Salad 
 
 Marinate in a Trench dressing, made 
 with equal parts of oil and vinegar, sea- 
 soning to taste, two cold boiled potatoes 
 cut in dice and four hard cooked eggs. 
 Just before serving, pare two cucumbers 
 until all the white fiber is removed, cut 
 into dice and add to the marinade. 
 Cover with a thick mayonnaise. It may 
 be garnished with lemon, pimolas, olives 
 or red peppers, or it may be served in to- 
 mato cups. 
 
 Boiled Cream Dressing 
 
 Two well beaten eggs, one cup of sweet 
 cream, one cup of vinegar, one teaspoon 
 of mustard mixed with a little water, 
 one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, a scant 
 half teaspoon of salt, one tablespoon of 
 granulated sugar, one piece of butter the 
 size of an egg. Add cream to beaten 
 eggs, then add mustard, pepper, salt and 
 sugar. Stir briskly all the while and 
 very gradually add vinegar, a little at a 
 time. Then add butter, not melted. Stir 
 constantly in a double boiler till it thick- 
 ens. 
 
 East India Salad 
 
 Work two ten-cent cream cheeses 
 until smooth and moisten with one- 
 fourth cup, each, of milk and cream. 
 Add one-half cup of grated Youag 
 
MEMORANDA 13^ 
 
142 SALADS 
 
 America cheese, one-half cup of heavy 
 cream beaten until stifi, and one-half 
 tablespoon of granulated gelatine soaked 
 in one tablespoon of cold water and 
 dissolved in one tablespoon of hot water. 
 Season highly with salt and paprika, 
 and turn into a border mold &st dipped 
 in cold water. Remove from the mold 
 and fill the center with lettuce leaves 
 dressed with a French dressing to which 
 curry powder is added; this is made by 
 mixing one and one-half teaspoons of 
 salt, one-half teaspoon, each, curry pow- 
 der and white pepper, one-half cup of 
 olive oil and one-third cup of vinegar. 
 
 Water Lily Salad 
 
 The eggs, first hard cooked, are cut 
 carefully with a sharp knife and then 
 placed on a bed of fresh cress. To be 
 served with mayonnaise dressing. See 
 page 14. 
 
 Brussels Salad 
 
 Slice and then chop the interior leaves 
 of a small head of white cabbage, adding 
 three tablespoons of minced fresh water 
 cress, one small cup of breast of chicken 
 cut in dice, the grated yolks of two hard 
 cooked eggs and two tablespoons of finely 
 sliced cooked string beans; toss the in- 
 gredients lightly together, sprinkling 
 with a few drops of sherry wine and 
 place in the ice chest to become thor- 
 oughly chilled. When ready to serve 
 moisten with a white mayonnaise dress- 
 ing, arranging on a small ice block, gar- 
 nished with chopped white of eggs, 
 capers and radishes cut to represent 
 tulips. 
 
 Neufchatel Salad 
 
 Crisp_ white lettuce leaves are filled 
 with minced stuffed olives, broken nut 
 kernels and crumbs of Neufchatel cheese. 
 Serve with French dressing. 
 
 Manhattan Mousse Salad 
 
 Mix together one teaspoon of ground 
 mustard, two teaspoons of -flour, one and 
 a half teaspoons of powdered sugar, a 
 few grains of cayenne pepper, one tea- 
 spoon of melted butter, one egg yolk, 
 one-third of a cup of vinegar and a tea- 
 spoon of salt; cook over hot water until 
 well thickened, stirring constantly, but 
 do not allow it to boil ; then remove from 
 the fire and add one-third of a table- 
 
MBMOKANDA 141 
 
144 SALADS 
 
 spoon of granulated gelatine, soaked in 
 one and a half tablespoons of cold water. 
 Season highly with salt, cayenne and 
 lemon juice two small cups of cold 
 flaked &h, adding the prepared dressing 
 when quite cold, together with half a cup 
 of whipped cream; turn immediately 
 into individual molds and chill on the 
 ice; serve in sm.all nests of heart lettuce 
 leaves; garnish with halved quarters of 
 lemon and stars of cold pickled beets. 
 
 Salad a la Suisse 
 
 Cut into cubes a quarter of a pound 
 of cold, cooked lamb (about one cup)_, 
 adding one medium-sized cucumber cut 
 in dice, half a cup of cooked green peas, 
 a teaspoon of strained mint juice, and a 
 cup of shredded lettuce; moisten with 
 a cup of mayonnaise dressing, mixing 
 the ingredients lightly together with a 
 silver fork and dispose on a bed of 
 chilled lettuce leaves, ornamenting with 
 finely chopped pared radishes and tiny 
 stuffed olives. 
 
 Cucumber and Sweefbread Salad 
 
 This salad is made by paring three 
 large cucumbers and cutting them In 
 thin slices; place in a saucepan, adding 
 a stalk of bruised celery, six drops of 
 onion juice, one tablespoon of white 
 wine vinegar, a bay leaf, a scant half 
 teaspoon of salt, a dash of paprika and 
 a cup of cold water. Simmer slowly 
 until the vegetable is tender and then 
 press through a puree sieve, returning 
 to the fire and stirring in three table- 
 spoons of granulated gelatine; color 
 slightly with a few drops of spinach 
 juice and mold in a chilled ring mold. 
 At serving time unmold on a cut glass 
 platter, filling the center with a mixture 
 of cold, cooked sweetbreads (cut in dice)^ 
 chopped celery and radishes moistened 
 with mayonnaise dressing. Garnish with 
 small cucumber pickles and plumes of 
 shredded celery. See page 15. 
 
 Buch Salad 
 
 Cut cold duck into small pieces and 
 marinate with a French dressing for 
 an hour. With a spoon remove the pulp 
 from a sour orange. In the bottom of 
 the salad bowl put a chapon (a small 
 square of bread rubbed on both sides 
 with a clove of garlic) ; on this put well 
 blanched chicory lightly torn with the 
 fingers, next the duck mixed with a 
 
MEMORANDA 14:3 
 
146 SALADS 
 
 little mayonnaise, and lastly the orange; 
 with a salad fork and spoon toss thor- 
 oughly together and serve with may- 
 onnaise in a bowl apart. 
 
 Aspic Jelly Salad 
 
 Soak one-haK box of gelatine in one- 
 half cup of cold water for one hour. 
 Add to two and one-half cups of boil- 
 ing water three teaspoons of beef bouil- 
 lon, a pinch of salt, a dash of tabasco, 
 a teaspoon of onion juice and one-half 
 teaspoon of Worcestershire. Add the 
 gelatine, strain the mixture and cool. 
 When half cooled, add a small can of 
 pate de foie gras, one slice of tongue, 
 five olives and two teaspoons of pecan 
 nuts. Pour into a mold and chill on 
 ice four hours. Serve on lettuce leaves 
 with mayonnaise dressing and capers. 
 This made with canned salmon, instead 
 of foie gras, is delicious. 
 
 "Karioifel Salad" 
 
 This recipe was given by a German 
 hausfrau. The ingredients are one dozen 
 small boiled potatoes (cold), one quarter 
 pound of bacon, two onions, a small 
 piece of bacon (for frying), parsley, 
 French dressing (oil, vinegar, pepper, 
 salt, chopped parsley and a very little 
 mustard). Cut the one-quarter of a 
 pound of bacon in small dice and fry 
 (not too brown), mixing both bacon and 
 fat with the salad. This is prepared an 
 hour before luncheon or tea and well 
 chilled in the ice box. Serve with hot 
 buttered crackers, sprinkled liberally 
 with paprika. 
 
 Game Mousse in Cucumber Jelly 
 
 Pare and grate crisp cucumbers, and 
 to two cups of this pulp add one heaping 
 tablespoon of granulated gelatine soft- 
 ened in a half cup of cold water and 
 dissolved over hot water. Season with a 
 teaspoon of salt, a quarter teaspoon of 
 white pepper and the juice of a lemon. 
 Pour into a bowl and set in a cold place 
 to harden. When firm remove the cen- 
 ter, leaving about an inch of jelly on 
 the bottom and sides of the bowl. Chop 
 and pound in a mortar one pint of scraps 
 of any cold game, add one cup of well- 
 seasoned chicken stock, in which half 
 a tablespoon of gelatine has been dis- 
 solved. Set away until slightly thick- 
 ened. Then fold in one cup of whipped 
 
MEMORANDA 145 
 
148 SALADS 
 
 cream. Mix thoroughly and fill the mold 
 of jelly. Place on ice for a day, turn 
 out and serve with a green mayonnaise 
 of celery. 
 
 Harvard Salad 
 
 Pare six small tomatoes, scooping out 
 a small quantity of the pulp from each; 
 sprinkle the insides with salt, invert and 
 chill. PiU the cavities with the follow- 
 ing mixture : three tablespoons of cream 
 cheese, one tablespoon of minced pars- 
 ley, a dash of mushroom catsup, a salt- 
 spoon of salt, a pinch of white peeper, 
 six stoned and chopped olives and suffi- 
 cient Prench dressing to moisten. Ar- 
 range on a bed of crisp water cress, top- 
 ping each portion with a bit of bar le 
 due jelly. 
 
 Tomato Gups 
 
 Scoop out the center of some carefully 
 peeled tomatoes. Place them on lettuce 
 leaves and fill them with slices of stuffed 
 olives mixed with mayonnaise. 
 
 Sardine Salad 
 
 Cover a large plate of lettuce leaves 
 with boiled whitefish, flaked, leaving an 
 inch margin; split six sardines, taking 
 out the bone, and lay them on the fish, 
 heads in the center, and spread around 
 to form a disk. Put a little parsley in 
 the middle of the dish', at the heads, and 
 on the fish between each two sardines put 
 a generous teaspoon of mayonnaise. 
 Slice a lemon, cut each slice in haK and 
 garnish the edge of the fish, the rind 
 lying on the lettuce. 
 
 Tomato Jelly Salad 
 
 A rather novel salad is made by 
 molding tomato jelly in individual 
 molds; when it has hardened, scoop 
 out with a hot spoon' some of the jelly 
 from the center, and fill the space with 
 shredded cabbage and chopped pecan 
 nuts, mixed with mayonnaise. Put a 
 spoonful of mayonnaise over the top. 
 
 Tomato and Truffle Salad 
 
 Skin small tomatoes of uniform size, 
 scoop out a portion of centers and ar- 
 range in nests of lettuce leaves. Pit a 
 thin slice of cucumber in each tomato, 
 arrange a ring of green pepper around 
 each slice of cucumber, then garnish 
 with a small round of truffle. 
 
MEMORANDA 147 
 
160 SALADS 
 
 Cold Meat Salad 
 
 Cut cold meat into very thin slices. 
 Chop four anchovies freed from bone, 
 one small onion and one tablespoon of 
 parsley. Mix in a salad bowl with two 
 tablespoons of oil, one tablespoon of 
 mild vinegar, Trench mustard, pepper 
 and salt. Cover and let stand two nours, 
 then serve garnished with parsley and 
 pickles. 
 
 Shrimp Salad 
 
 One quart of celery cut in small bits, 
 two cans of shrimps, washed and picked 
 to pieces, one dozen olives minced, one- 
 fourth pound of grated cheese, one pint 
 of mayonnaise, one head of lettuce in 
 small pieces. Line salad bowl with 
 lettuce leaves and mix ingredients. Gar- 
 nish with parsley and whole olives. Set 
 in a cool place until ready to serve. 
 
 Frozen Tomato Salad 
 
 Take one can of tomatoes, season 
 with salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of 
 sugar. Preeze and serve with Erench 
 dressing or mayonnaise. Freeze the 
 tomatoes in glasses that have glass tops, 
 or in baking powder pound cans, by 
 packing in ice and salt for three hours. 
 Turn out of the can and slice. 
 
 Cauliflower and Beet Salad 
 
 Boil a head of cauliflower in a piece of 
 fine cheesecloth, until tender. Remove 
 from the fire and break into flowerets, 
 sprinkling with a tablespoon of lemon 
 juice. When cold, arrange neatly in a 
 dish, adding two tablespoons of cold 
 boiled beets cut into dice, a tablespoon 
 of chopped parsley and a teaspoon of 
 finely minced wild sorrel. Mix them 
 lightly with a French dressing, and gar- 
 nish the base of the salad with a border 
 of boiled carrots and beets, cut into fancy 
 shapes. 
 
 Flower Salad 
 
 Arrange a fringe of parsley on the 
 outer rim of each plate. Then a ring of 
 very dark slices of beet, moistened with 
 plain mayonnaise dressing. The next 
 ring should be of pink beets with a bit 
 of whipped cream in the dressing. Fill 
 the center with lighter beets and cream. 
 In the very center rice a bit of cooked 
 yolk of egg. 
 
ItEMORANDA 14§ 
 
152 SALADS 
 
 Artichoke Salad 
 
 Prepare artichokes as for a vegetable. 
 Strip off the outside leaves, saving some 
 of the best for garnishing. Lay the 
 hearts in a chopping bowl and chop fine. 
 For every four hearts add one hard- 
 cooked egg, which is also chopped, and 
 five or six sweet cucumber pickles, ac- 
 cording to size and taste, with salt and a 
 little paprika. Add a tablespoon of 
 thick mayonnaise dressing for each 
 heart and mix well. Put this in the 
 salad bowl and spread mayonnaise dress- 
 ing thickly over the top. Garnish with 
 the artichoke leaves. 
 
 Salad Verte 
 
 The ingredients are olive oil, cider 
 vinegar, tarragon vinegar, chives, cher- 
 vil, and romaine or Boston lettuce, 
 (Chervil can be bought at a seed dealer's 
 for five cents a package and can be 
 easily grown in a sunny window or in a 
 garden. Chives cost fifteen cents a 
 climip and spring up quickly after cut- 
 ting.) In the first place, let the oil be 
 above reproach — thick, yellow and rich. 
 Use three tablespoons of oil to one of 
 vinegar. Mix a saltspoon of salt and 
 one of black pepper with the vinegar, 
 pour in the oil slowly, mixing thoroughly 
 until creamy, repeat this until oil and 
 vinegar are thoroughly mixed and used 
 up. In the last spoonful pour a few 
 drops of tarragon vinegar and mix a 
 tablespoon of finely chopped chives and 
 another of chervil. I mix this and serve 
 in little Japanese bowls, passing the 
 romaine, which is by far the best salad 
 to eat with French dressing, on a shallow 
 dish, letting the guests dip the tender 
 green into the dressing. Cheese crack- 
 ers are the proper accompaniment to this 
 salad — ^thin crackers spread with butter, 
 grated yellow cheese, generously sea- 
 soned with paprika, black pepper and 
 salt, toasted in the oven long enough to 
 crisp and puff up. 
 
 Water Cress Salad 
 
 Dress a crisp bunch of cress with salt, 
 pepper, paprika, oil and lemon juice, add- 
 ing the grated yolks of three hard-oooked 
 eggs; arrange in a mound on a salad 
 platter, garnishing with the whites of 
 the eggs cut lengthwise into eighths, and 
 placed in the salad to simulate the petals 
 of a flower, pressing a star of mayon- 
 naise into the center of the petals. 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
 ISl 
 
Entrees 
 
 Timbdle Cases 
 
 Into a small bowl put three-fourths of 
 a cup of flour, half a teaspoon of salt 
 and a teaspoon of sugar. Add gradually 
 one-half cup of milk, one beaten egg and 
 a tablespoon of olive oil. Whip with an 
 egg-beater until it is perfectly blended, 
 then chill for an hour. The frying is the 
 most difficult part of the operation. 
 Pour the batter into a deep cup; in a 
 shallow bowl it would soon be too low 
 to properly cover the timbale iron. Heat 
 the fat until hot enough to brown bread 
 in forty counts and provide a pan with 
 heavy absorbent paper close by. Drop 
 the mold end of the iron into the fat 
 long enough to become heated, remove 
 and dip into the batter for a second. 
 A thin film of partially cooked batter 
 will cling, but to insure a good timbale 
 dip again. This time no bubble or hole 
 should mar the even coat on the iron. 
 jDip for twelve seconds in the hot fat. 
 Turn the iron upside down to drain off 
 the fat and to keep the timbale from 
 dropping off. Slip from the iron to the 
 paper and dip again. For success the 
 fat must be very hot, and the iron must 
 be hot as well ; dip the point into batter ; 
 if nothing clings it is too cold or too 
 hot. Dip into batter, covering half the 
 mold. When fried these will be just the 
 right hight. A fluted iron is easier for 
 a beginner to use as there is no tendency 
 for the fried timbale to slip off. See 
 illustrations on pages 16 and 17. 
 
 Cheese Fondu in Shells 
 
 Add two tablespoons of melted butter 
 to a cup of soft bread crumbs; cover 
 with a cup of milk and let stand about 
 ten minutes. Add half a teaspoon of 
 salt, a shaking of pepper, a fourth of a 
 pound of mild cheese grated and the 
 beaten yolks of three eggs, then fold in 
 the whites of the eggs beaten until stiff. 
 Turn into buttered individual timbale 
 shells or china cups and bake in a moder- 
 ate oven until the egg is set. Serve at 
 once in the dishes. 
 
KEMOKAKDA 133. 
 
156 ENTKEES 
 
 Vegetarian Bice 
 
 Boil the rice until flaky, then mold 
 into the shape of a loaf of bread. Cut 
 the loaf in half and insert three table- 
 spoons of butter and push together 
 again. Grate strong cheese over the top 
 of the loaf and bake in the oven until 
 the cheese runs and glazes the top. 
 Serve with asparagus tips in melted but- 
 ter. 
 
 Corn Souffle 
 
 Heat one pint of milk; stir into it 
 three-fourths of a cup of corn meal and 
 cook until thick and smooth. Add salt 
 and a little butter; beat into this the 
 well beaten yolks of four eggs and then 
 the whites, which have been beaten sep- 
 arately. Pour into a baking dish and 
 cook twenty-five minutes in a moderate 
 oven.. Serve at once. 
 
 Pigs in Blankets 
 
 Take large oysters, allowing two to be 
 served each person, as they are too rich 
 to serve more. Cut clear salt pork into 
 thin slices, put it in cold water and let 
 it come to a boil; this is to remove any 
 strong taste or odor. After boiling 
 place it on brown paper to drain. Wrap 
 each oyster in a slice of pork, fastening 
 with toothpick. Dip in beaten egg, us- 
 ing both yolk and white. Roll in cracker 
 crumbs and fry in smoking hot olive oil, 
 until brown, tise a wire croquette bas- 
 ket if you have one. 
 
 Sweetbread in Bamekins 
 
 Make one cup of cream sauce. See 
 page 110. Add one and a half cups of 
 diced sweetbread and a cup of peas, 
 either fresh or canned, turn into but- 
 tered ramekins, cover with buttered 
 bread crumbs and bake until the crumbs 
 are brown. Any of the mixtures suita- 
 ble for creamed sweetbreads may be pre- 
 pared in this way. This is a good and 
 simple luncheon dish. 
 
 Escalloped Ohichen with Green Peppers 
 and Tomatoes 
 
 Bone the legs of the chicken and cut 
 into neat blocks. Prepare butter sauce 
 and mix with fowl. Take two green 
 peppers, cut in strips, one large ripe 
 tomato and two boiled potatoes, cut them 
 the same as the chicken; mix all to- 
 gether in the sauce and simmer thirty 
 
MEMORANDA 155 
 
158 ENTREES 
 
 minutes. Pour the mixture in a baking 
 dish, cover with fine bread crumbs, 
 butter the top and bake a nice brown. 
 Serve with baked new potatoes. 
 
 Spanish Tamales 
 
 The following ingredients are for two 
 dozen tamales. Three dozen ears of 
 green corn with the husks, one chicken, 
 two dozen Chili peppers, one quart of 
 olives, two pounds of raisins, two cups of 
 good lard. Salt to season sufficiently. 
 Scrape ,the corn from the cob, mix with 
 the chicken minced moderately fine, and 
 add the other ingredients. Divide in two 
 dozen small portions and tie up in the 
 husks. Steam or boil until thoroughly 
 done. This is a genuine Spanish-made 
 tamale, as manufactured in southern 
 California. 
 
 Deviled Crabs 
 
 To the meat of one dozen hard crabs 
 add pepper, salt, dry mustard and 
 Worcestershire sauce to taste. Heat two 
 cups of fresh milk, add two tablespoons 
 of butter, six broken crackers and some 
 chopped parsley. Stir and cook a few 
 minutes. Remove from fire and mix 
 with the picked crab meat. Fill each 
 shell, cover with cracker crumbs with a 
 bit of butter on top. Bake in oven until 
 brown. 
 
 Supreme of Chicken 
 
 Eun through a meat chopper until 
 chopped very fine the raw breast of a 
 good sized chicken; beat in, one at a 
 time, four eggs, beating the mixture 
 after each addition until smooth; add 
 one and a third cups of thick cream and 
 season well with salt and pepper. Turn 
 into buttered earthen timbale molds, 
 half surround them with hot water, cover 
 with buttered paper and bake about 
 twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 
 Serve with a sauce made of a fourth of 
 a cup each of butter and flour, one and a 
 half cups of chicken stock, half a cup 
 of cream, salt and pepper to season and 
 the yolks of two eggs. 
 
 Cheese Pie 
 
 This is a delicious accompaniment to 
 cold sliced meat or it may well serve 
 as the central dish for the family lunch- 
 eon. Cut two-thirds of a stale five-cent 
 baker's loaf in one-third-inch slices, and 
 then cut the slices in halves. In a 
 
MEMORANDA 157 
 
160 ENTREES 
 
 buttered Bhallow baking dish alternate 
 layers of bread witb layers of soft, mild 
 cheese, cut in one-eighth-inch slices and 
 sprinkled with salt and paprika. Beat 
 two eggs slightly and add one cup of 
 milk. Pour over the bread and bake 
 until the cheese is soft, the time required 
 being about thirty minutes. 
 
 Timhales of Halibut 
 
 Force through a meat chopper until 
 finely chopped one and a half pounds of 
 fresh uncooked halibut. Add a teaspoon 
 of salt, a few grains of cayenne, half a 
 cup of thick cream beaten until stiff and 
 ■the stiffly-beaten whites of five eggs. 
 Turn into a well buttered mold and 
 steam for thirty minutes, taking care to 
 have the water surrounding it boiling 
 steadily the entire time. Turn out, gar- 
 nish with lemon and parsley and serve 
 with egg sauce. 
 
 Bamehins of Chichen 
 
 •Cut into cubes sufficient cooked 
 chicken to make one and a half cups. 
 Have ready a cup of cooked and drained 
 peas,- fresh or canned, and a fourth of a 
 cup of sliced mushrooms. Melt a fourth 
 of a cup of butter; when hot and bub- 
 bling add a fourth of a cup of flour and 
 gradually half a cup each of chicken 
 stock, cream and the liquor from canned 
 mushrooms. Season to taste with salt 
 and paprika, add the chicken, peas and 
 mushrooms, and when all are mixed thor- 
 oughly, place in ramekins. Cover with 
 browned crumbs and serve. 
 
 Timhales of Liver 
 
 To a pint of young calf's liver cooked 
 in salted water until tender, then forced 
 through a meat chopper, add a cup of 
 fresh crumbs moistened with a cup of 
 chicken stock or milk, two beaten eggs, 
 a teaspoon of finely chopped parsley, a 
 few drops of onion juice, a tablespoon 
 of chicken oil, bacon fat or soft butter, 
 and salt and paprika to season highly. 
 Mix thoroughly and turn into well but- 
 tered earthen timbale molds. Cook in a 
 pan of warm water in a moderate oven 
 for about twenty-five minutes. Turn out 
 on a warm platter and surround with 
 mushroom sauce. 
 
MEMORANDA 189 
 
162 ENTREES 
 
 Sweetbread Timbales 
 
 Parboil and cook a pair of aweetbreada 
 until tender. Cool and force through a 
 meat chopper, then add four eggs, one 
 at a time, stirring until the mixture is 
 smooth, lastly fold in a cup of cream 
 beaten until stiff and dry and add sea- 
 soning of salt and pepper to taste. But- 
 ter some small earthen timbale molds, 
 put a mushroom in the bottom of each 
 and fill two-thirds full with the mixture. 
 Put into a pan, half surround with hot 
 water, cover with buttered paper and bake 
 twenty minutes in a moderate oven. 
 Turn out and serve with green peas or 
 stewed mushrooms. 
 
 Indian Meal Timbales 
 
 Cook two cups of corn meal in slightly 
 salted water for three-quarters of an 
 hour, adding more water if necessary 
 and boiling to the consistency of por- 
 ridge. Pour into small timbale molds 
 and set away to harden; when quite 
 firm remove with a sharp spoon the cen- 
 ter from each mold, leaving only a shell ; 
 unmold these, brush over with melted 
 butter and crisp in a hot oven; then fill 
 with any highly seasoned creamed or 
 deviled preparation of meat, fish or game 
 and serve inverted on a salpicon of 
 mashed potato, garnished with sprigs of 
 parsley and thinly sliced lemon. 
 
 Tomato Timbales 
 
 Add one-fourth teaspoon of soda to 
 half a cup of cream and stir into two 
 cups of cold stewed and sifted toma- 
 toes. Add the beaten yolks of six eggs, 
 half a teaspoon of salt, the same quan- 
 tity of onion juice, a tablespoon of sugar 
 and a dusting of paprika; lastly fold in 
 the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs. 
 Turn into buttered timbale molds and 
 bake until £rm. Stand the mold in 
 hot water, which must not boil af t-jr 
 the molds axe set in the oven. 
 
 Fritter Batter 
 
 Sift together a cup of flour and a 
 fourth of a teaspoon of salt. Beat well 
 tiie yolks of two eggs, add to them grad- 
 ually half a cup of milk, then stir this 
 slowly into the flour, beating until 
 smooth; add a tablespoon of melted but- 
 ter or olive oil and stand aside an hour 
 or longer. In cold weather several hours 
 or over night is preferable!. When ready 
 
MEMORANDA 161 
 
164 ENTREES 
 
 to use add the whites of the eggs beaten 
 very stiff. In cold weather this batcer 
 may be kept several days. 
 
 Fig Fritters 
 
 For one dozen of these delicious frit- 
 ters, take two eggs, separating the whites 
 from the yolks, add to the yolks one cup 
 of milk, one and one-half cups of gi^aham 
 flour, one tablespoon of melted butter, 
 one-half teaspoon of salt, one cup of 
 chopped figs and one-half cup of boiled 
 rice stirred in; flavor with nutmeg and 
 a little cinnamon, then stir in the beat^i 
 whites and one teaspoon of baking pow- 
 der; fry in deep fat and serve willi a 
 boiled icing sauce. 
 
 Golden Ball Fritters 
 
 Put into a saucepan, a pint of water, 
 a tablespoon of -butter and half a cup of 
 sugar. When this boils, stir into it a 
 pint of sifted flour, stirring briskly and 
 thoroughly. Remove from the fire, and 
 when nearly cold, beat in four eggs, one 
 at a time, and beating the batter between 
 each ; then add a cup of preserved ginger 
 chopped finely, and fry brown in boil- 
 ing fat. Serve with a sauce made from 
 the ginger syrup and flavored with lemon 
 juice. 
 
 Cranberry Fritters 
 
 Beat one egg thoroughly and stir it 
 into one and one-half cups of milk,. add 
 one tablespoon of sugar and one cup of 
 flour in which has been sifted one tea- 
 spoon of baking powder. When well 
 mixed stir in one cup of thick rich 
 cranberry sauce, and drop in spoonfuls 
 on a hot buttered gridiron. Brown very 
 lightly, and serve with butter and pow- 
 dered sugar. 
 
 Chicken or Turkey Fritters 
 
 Separate some cold cooked chicken or 
 turkey from the bones and cut into 
 pieces about half an inch thick and an 
 inch and a half long. The pieces need 
 not necessarily be perfect in shape. 
 Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip into 
 fritter batter, coating well on all sidee, 
 and fry in deep hot fat until a golden 
 brown. Drain on brown or soft paper 
 to absorb the grease. 
 
MEMORANDA 163 
 
166 ENTBEES 
 
 Apple Fritters 
 
 Pare and core four tart apples and cut 
 in one-fourth inch slices across the apple. 
 Sprinkle with two tablespoons of lemon 
 juice and powdered sugar. Prepare a 
 batter by sifting one cup of flour and 
 one-fourth teaspoon of salt. Add two 
 well-beaten yolks to one-half cup of 
 milk, mix and beat into the flour, until 
 it is a smooth batter. Add one table- 
 spoon of melted butter or olive oil, and 
 cut in the stiffly beaten whites of two 
 eggs. Drain the apples carefully, dip in 
 the batter and fry in deep fat. When 
 cooked, drain on crushed brown paper 
 to absorb the grease, sprinkle with pow- 
 dered sugar, and serve. 
 
 Clam Fritters 
 
 Clean and pick over a quart of clams. 
 Reserve the liquor and use it in making 
 a fritter batter instead of milk. Put 
 aside the soft part of the clams, finely 
 chop the hard part, then add all to the 
 batter, which should be quite thick. 
 Drop by small spoonfuls in hot fat. 
 Drain and serve as oyster fritters. 
 
 Croquettes 
 
 In making croquettes, use bread 
 crumbs if possible, rolled or ground to 
 the fineness of powder. Place them in 
 an even oblong in the center of a board. 
 Dilute one slightly beaten egg with twice 
 the amount of cold water and place in a 
 pie plate. Form the croquettes, roll in 
 the crumbs, then in egg; crumbs again 
 and set aside to fry. 
 
 A mixtur,e of one-third clarified suet 
 to two-thirds of good lard is excellent for 
 frying. Olive oil is even better but of 
 course more expensive. Whatever fat 
 be used heat until a bit of bread can be 
 browned in it in forty counts. Dip the 
 empty frying basket in the hot fat, then 
 fill with the croquettes, taking care that 
 there are not enough to touch each other 
 or the sides of the basket. When cooked 
 drain on crushed unglazed paper. Heat 
 the fat before attempting to fry a second 
 batch. See illustrations on pages 18, 19 
 and 20. 
 
 Somerset Croquettes 
 
 Melt three tablespoons of butter, add 
 one-fourth cup of flour, and pour on, 
 gradually, while stirring constantly, two- 
 thirds cup of milk. When the boiling 
 point is reached, add one-half cup of 
 
MEMORANDA 165 
 
168 ENTREES 
 
 grated Gruyere cheese, and the yolks of 
 two eggs unbeaten. As soon as the cheese 
 melts, remove from the range, fold in 
 one cup of mild cheese, cut in very small 
 cubes, and season with salt i.nd cayenne. 
 Spread in a shallow pan and cool, shape 
 in round croquettes, dip in crumbs, egg 
 and crumbs again, fry in deep fat and 
 drain -on brown paper. 
 
 Lentil Croquettes 
 
 Soak over night one cup of dried 
 lentils and half a cup of dried red 
 beans. Drain, add two cups of water, 
 half an onion, a stalk of celery, a small 
 carrot sliced and two or three sprigs of 
 parsley. Cook until soft, remove sea- 
 sonings and rub through a sieve. Add 
 one cup of soft bread crumbs, one beaten 
 egg, salt, pepper and lemon juice to taste. 
 Cream together two tablespoons of flour 
 and two tablespoons of butter, pour on 
 gradually two-thirds of a cup of cream, 
 bring to the boiling point and add to 
 the lentil mixture. Mix thoroughly, 
 cool, shape, dip in crumbs, in egg and 
 again in crumbs, and fry in deep hot fat. 
 t)rain and serve with brown tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 Croquettes a la Josephine 
 
 Mix thoroughly two cups of mashed 
 sweet potatoes, four tablespoons of 
 melted butter, four tablespoons of 
 cream, one tablespoon of chopped pars- 
 ley, one-half teaspoon of salt and a 
 little cayenne; add the beaten yolks of 
 two eggs to this and stir over the fire 
 until the mixture leaves the sides of 
 the saucepan, then set it aside to cool. 
 Chop finely one cup of the dark meat of 
 cold turkey, mix with it a little of the 
 brown sauce with which it was served 
 when roasted, and form into small balls. 
 Surround these balls with the sweet 
 potato mixture, about one tablespoon to 
 each, making larger balls of uniform 
 size. Egg and bread crumb them and 
 fry in deep fat. Serve on a napkin 
 garnished with parsley and accompany 
 with a white or cream sauce flavored 
 with a teaspoon of Worcestershire. 
 
 Sweet Potato Croquettes 
 
 Mash and sift cold cooked potatoss 
 to the amount of two cups, add two 
 beaten egg yolks, one-half teaspoon of 
 salt and enough cream to make them 
 
MEMOKANDA 167 
 
170 ENTREES 
 
 soft enough to form into croquettes, roll 
 in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, and 
 fry in hot fat. 
 
 Macaroni Croquettes 
 
 Cook macaroni in boiling salted water 
 until tender; drain, cool and cut fine. 
 Make a thick sauce of two tablespoons of 
 butter and four tablespoons of flour and 
 a cup of milk, add one cup of mac- 
 aroni, a heaping tablespoon of grated 
 cheese, the beaten yolks of two eggs and 
 salt and pepper to season. Cool, shape, 
 egg and crumb , and fry in deep fat. 
 Serve with tomato sauce. 
 
 Italian Croquettes 
 
 Have ready a cup of finely chopped 
 and cooked vermicelli. Make a sauce of 
 a fourth of a cup each of butter and 
 flour and a cup of strained cooked 
 tomatoes. Add a fourth of a cup of 
 chopped mushrooms, the vermicelli, and 
 season highly with salt and paprika. 
 Cool, shape and fry as other croquettes. 
 
 Chupe 
 
 Cut a medium sized onion small and 
 fry in a tablespoon of lard (this is a 
 South American recipe — drippings may 
 be substituted if preferred) ; do not let 
 it brown; add two tomatoes cut in dice 
 (whole tomatoes from a can may be used 
 in lieu of fresh ones), a tablespoon of 
 finely minced parsley and half a tea- 
 spoon of salt. Now add six potatoes 
 pared and cut in halves, with sufficient 
 water to cover, and cook five minutes; 
 add two tablespoons of washed rice and 
 simmer twenty minutes, or till rice and 
 potatoes are done; just before serving 
 beat one egg in a cup of milk and stir 
 slowly into the hot ragout; remove from 
 the fire and break in a small five-cent 
 cream cheese. 
 
 Fried Nuts 
 
 Cold cooked farina, oatmeal or mush 
 of any kind may be utilized. Season 
 highly while hot with butter, salt and 
 pepper, and when cold enough to handle 
 shape the size of small walnuts. Dip 
 in beaten egg, then in crushed walnuts, 
 and fry in deep fat. 
 
 Celery Rolls 
 
 Select six rolls, cut from the top a 
 round piece the size of a silver dollar, and 
 scoop out the soft part; when ready to 
 
MEMORANDA 169 
 
172 ENTREES 
 
 serve, fill with the following mixture: 
 Chop very fine sufficient celery to make a 
 pint. Dust over a teaspoon of salt, a 
 saltspoon of pepper, a tablespoon of 
 grated onion, two tablespoons of tomato 
 ketchup, four tablespoons of olive oil and 
 one teaspoon of lemon juice. Serve very 
 cold. The filling may be varied by the 
 addition of a little cold chicken cut in 
 dice, ,or some finely minced boiled tongue. 
 
 Hash in a New Dress 
 
 Chop fine scraps of beef or mutton, 
 cooked or uncooked, to the amount of 
 about a pint, season with salt and pep- 
 per, and pour on a cup of hot water. 
 Let boil for a few minutes, thicken with 
 a little flour, then place in shallow gran- 
 ite pan ready for the oven. Now take 
 two good-sized onions, chop them fairly 
 fine and boil until tender. Drain and 
 spread them over hash, then make a 
 dressing of a half -pint of bread crumbs, 
 one egg, well beaten, two tablespoons of 
 melted butter, salt, pepper and a little 
 sage. Mix thoroughly and spread on 
 top of the onion in the dish. Bake in 
 a moderate oven twenty minutes. 
 
 Steak with Tomato 
 
 This is a good way of cooking a cheap 
 cut of steak. It is nicest cooked in a 
 casserole in the oven, but, as that is very 
 expensive when one has a gas stove, we 
 do it usually in a tightly covered frying 
 pan on top of the stove. One pound 
 round steak, three-quarters can tomato, 
 one small onion, salt, red and black 
 pepper to taste, one-half hay leaf. Put 
 all together in a frying pan or casserole 
 and cook slowly three hours. Cooking 
 fast absolutely spoils it. 
 
 Swedish Cabbage 
 
 Boil in salted water for twenty min- 
 utes a dozen good sized cabbage leaves. 
 Drain them and fill with a mixture of 
 one pound of raw beef chopped fine, 
 one egg, two tablespoons of cream, one- 
 half teaspoon of black pepper, one tea- 
 spoon of salt and chopped parsley. 
 Eub the dish in which you mix this 
 with a clove of garlic. Mix all to- 
 gether thoroughly. Eoll each leaf 
 around a tablespoon of this mixture, 
 trim the ends neatly and tie or skewer. 
 Lay in a dripping pan with a pint of 
 stock or a tablespoon of butter and a 
 pint of water, baste frequently and bake 
 
MEMORANDA 171 
 
174 KNTBEES 
 
 for half an hour or until tender. Ee- 
 move the rolls, thicken the gravy, poar 
 over them and serve hot. 
 
 PorJc Scallop 
 
 P,ut a layer of cold boiled pork, 
 chopped 'fine, in a buttered ramekin; 
 Beason v^ith salt, pepper and minced 
 onion, then strew over it a layer of 
 cracker crumbs, and moisten with milk. 
 Add another layer of meat, and so on 
 until the dish is filled, finishing off with 
 a layer of the crumbs. Cover closely 
 and bake. Ten minutes before it is 
 done uncover and let brown. Serve 
 with onion sauce. 
 
 Game in Potato Cases 
 
 Pare and slice five or six medium- 
 sized potatoes, and drop into ice water 
 for an hour's crisping; drain and cook 
 in salted water. When done drain and 
 shake in a current of air until dry and 
 floury. Eun through a vegetable press 
 and whip into them a quarter cup of 
 butter, two tablespoons of cream, beaten 
 with two egg yolks and a light dusting 
 of white pepper. Whip until thoroughly 
 mixed and fluffy, then line small molds 
 which have been brushed with butter 
 and dusted with sifted dry bread crumbs. 
 Melt over the flre a tablespoon of butter 
 creamed with a tablespoon of flour, add 
 a cup of stock, brown or white, a bay 
 leaf, a dusting of salt and paprika, a cup 
 of finely minced cold game, and a tea- 
 spoon of lemon juice. Simmer for ten 
 minutes, remove the bay leaf and fill 
 the center of each mold; lay on a fine 
 fat oyster, lightly parboiled, and spread 
 a layer of potato over the top; stand 
 in a baking pan and bake in a moderate 
 oven for fifteen minutes. Turn from 
 the molds and serve with mushroom 
 sauce. These little cases make a de- 
 licious entree. 
 
 Quail Pates 
 
 These can be served hot as a second 
 course at a formal luncheon, or they can 
 be served cold at a theater supper, and 
 are equally good either way. Line small 
 pate pans with good pastry, fill with 
 rice, adjust a top of pastry to each and 
 bake. Eemove the lid of crust and set 
 aside, empty out the rice and remove 
 the pastry shells from the pans. Chop 
 fine the best of the meat, and reserve; 
 take ,the bits and oddmeats left, break 
 
MEMORANDA ' 173 
 
176 ENTREES 
 
 the bones small, cover to level with bold 
 water and set to simmer for an hour. 
 Hake a forcemeat of the livers of the 
 quail if at hand, if not use chicken 
 livers, rub through a sieve, and to three 
 tablespoons add the same quantity of 
 chopped boiled ham, the yolks of two 
 hard cooked eggs, a teaspoon of minced 
 onion and a teaspoon of chopped celery. 
 Strain the stock, season with salt and 
 pepper and a teaspoon of Worcestershire 
 sauce. In the bottom of each pastry 
 shell place a morsel of finely shredded 
 fat bacon, on this put a layer of the 
 quail meat, next a fat plump oyster, 
 cover with the forcement, and moisten 
 with the stock; replace the pastry cover 
 and set in a moderate oven for twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 Tongue Fingers 
 
 Grate the remains of a cold tongue 
 very fine and mix it with the yolk of an 
 egg, a spoonful of cream and finely 
 chopped parsley, pepper and salt. Heat 
 it thoroughly and pour on narrow slices 
 of well buttered toast. Sprinkle thickly 
 with fine bread crumbs stirred in melted, 
 butter, with a shake of red pepper, and 
 brown quickly in a hot oven. 
 
 Kidney Belish 
 
 Split kidneys in two, remove the fat 
 and outer skin and chop fine. Slightly 
 brown some chopped onion in a table- 
 spoon of butter and add a little chopped 
 parsley, then a tablespoon of Worcester- 
 shire sauce, a sprinkling of flour, and 
 stir in the finely chopped kidneys with 
 salt and pepper to taste. Spread on thin 
 slices of buttered toast, cover with a 
 layer of bread crumbs and Parmesan 
 cheese and place in a quick oven for fif- 
 teen minutes, then serve at once. 
 
 Yorhshireman's Delight 
 
 A Yorkshire pudding is known only as 
 a delicious accompaniment to roast beef. 
 Try placing good plump sausages or 
 slices of sausage meat in a large dripping 
 pan, pouring the batter over them, and 
 baking in a hot oven for thirty minutes. 
 The batter is made with two cups of 
 flour, a teaspoon of salt, three eggs, well 
 beaten, and two cups of milk. 
 
ilEMOEANDA 17S 
 
178 ENTluEES 
 
 Stuffed Squash 
 
 _ Those who, are^'^n the way of procur- 
 ing the small av6l:aee-s.izied squashes 
 (known por^^iarfy ^s "individual" 
 squashes) w ^^ fij^j t;^ following a pal- 
 atable lun' j4iig(jji (J4^ or entree. Parboil 
 the squa'j^gg if^j. fifteen minutes, drain, 
 cut on "^ small portioii o£ the top and re- 
 move ^e seeds, fill with « forcemeat, re- 
 plac^ tte covers and bake in a moderate, 
 o^ ea an hour. To make forcemeat for 
 ^Swe squashes bro'wn a pint of diced 
 teltale bread in two tablespoons of 
 Imtter and fry crisply brown. After 
 teooling add a teaspoon of minced onion, 
 ttwo hard cooked eggs chopped fine, half 
 m. cup of blanched chopped nut meats, 
 ttwo tablespoons of grated cheese, half a 
 "tea^oon of salt, a dusting of p&prika 
 !an3 two beaten egg yolks. Mix well to- 
 SSSther, slightly crushing tie bread cubes. 
 
 'Sweet Potato Timhaies 
 
 To one cup of cooked and sifted sweet 
 potatoes add two beaten eggs, three table- 
 ' spoons of <er©am, two tablespoons of 
 melted butter, one-half teaspoon of salt 
 and a dash of white pepper. Mix tibor- 
 onj'ghly and turn into buttered timbale 
 Jmolds. Bake in a pan of hot water in 
 ithe oven until the centers are firm. 
 •"S^rve turned from the molds and gar- 
 Intehed with parsley. 
 
 'Squash and Almond Croquettes 
 
 Eemove the seeds from a Hubbard 
 and bake in convenient-sized pieces, then 
 run the pulp through a ricer. To each 
 pint add two tablespoons of melted but- 
 ter, a beaten egg, a half teaspoon of 
 salt and half a cup of blanched, chopped 
 and pounded almonds. Form into cro- 
 •quettoa, egg and crumb and fry in deep 
 :fat. 
 
 Break small a pound loaf of stale 
 Jbread and soak in cold water; fry a, 
 small sliced onion a light brown in two 
 tablespoons of very hot lard; add two 
 tomatoes cut very small and one red 
 pepper chopped fine with some saltij 
 squeeze the bread dry and let it stew 
 with the onion and tomatoes for ten 
 minutes; add a small cream chpese 
 broken small and dish on a flat platter, 
 laying one poached egg for each person 
 on the top, It is both good and eco- 
 noBEjical, 
 
M35MORANDA 177 
 
Puddings 
 
 Plum Pudding 
 
 Clean one pound of currants by wash- 
 ing in warm water, dry on a towel, pick 
 them over, toss them in flour and put 
 them in a big mixing bowL Add one 
 pound of raisins, stoned, slightly chopped 
 and floured, then half a pound of brown 
 sugar, one pound of finely chopped suet, 
 four ounces of chopped citron, four 
 ounces of chopped lemon peel, four 
 ounces of chopped orange peel, one tea- 
 spoon of salt, one grated nutmeg, one 
 teaspoon of ginger, one teaspoon of cin- 
 namon, half a teaspoon of cloves, half a 
 teaspoon of allspice and four ounces of 
 split blanched almonds, one and a half 
 pounds of flour and one and a half pounds 
 of stale bread crumbs. Toss these dry in- 
 gredients thoroughly, then add eight well 
 beaten eggs, and milk enough to make a 
 very stiff batter. One secret of success 
 is that the batter be very well stirred. 
 Take a square piece of strong drilling, 
 dip it in boiling water, then rub it on 
 one side full of flour. This forms a 
 crust on the cloth which the water or 
 steam cannot soak through. On the 
 floured side lay an enameled bowl well 
 buttered. Turn the pudding into this 
 and cover with buttered paper. Gather 
 the cloth together loosely, allowing one- 
 quarter of space for the pudding to swell, 
 set the pudding on a trivet in a kettle 
 of boiling water, having the water come 
 only half way up the side of the bowl, as 
 the pudding should be steamed, not 
 boiled. Let the water boil for six hours, 
 keeping it replenished from the teaket- 
 tle ; if it stops boiling for one minute the 
 pudding will be sticky. See illustration 
 on page 21. 
 
 Plain Plum Pudding 
 
 Four ounces of %uet, four ounces of 
 currants and raisins mixed, two table- 
 spoons of brown sugar, two tablespoons 
 of molasses, one egg, half a teaspoon of 
 soda dissolved in half a cup of warm 
 milk, and enough flour to make into a 
 good, stiff batter. Steam two hours. 
 
MEMORANDA 1^9 
 
182 PDDDINOS 
 
 Oinger Pudding 
 
 Mix together four ounces each of 
 bread crumbs, suet and preserved 
 ginger, with two well beaten eggs. Add 
 two tablespoons of ginger syrup and 
 steam three hours. 
 
 Date Bread and Butter Pudding 
 
 Cut half of a small loaf of whit« 
 bread into thin slices, trim off " the 
 crusts, and spread each with butter and 
 a thin layer of quince or apple jelly. 
 Line a buttered pudding dish with them, 
 and spread over half a cup of cleaned 
 dates, stoned and cut in small pieces. 
 Then put in another layer of the spread 
 bread, and another half cup of dates. 
 Finish with the bread simply buttered. 
 Cover with a custard made with one 
 quart of milk, three eggs, half a cup of 
 sugar and a pinch of salt. Pour it 
 slowly over the bread, and let it stand 
 half an hour. Bake in a moderate oven 
 about one hour. Serve with sweet sauce 
 or cream and sugar. 
 
 Indian Bice Pudding 
 
 To two quarts of milk add two table- 
 spoons of uncooked rice, one-half a cup 
 of molasses, one-fourth teaspoon of salt. 
 Bake in a buttered dish, in a slow oven 
 for four or five hours, stirring occa- 
 sionally. 
 
 Date Suet Pudding 
 
 Stone and cut small one pound of 
 dates. Chop six ounces of fresh beef 
 suet and mix with it three-quarters of a 
 pound of fine bread crumbs. Sprinkle 
 a scant cup of sugar over the dates, and 
 add them to the crumbs and suet. To 
 one well beaten egg add half a cup of 
 milk, and stir it into half a cup of flour 
 sifted with a level teaspoon of baking 
 .powder. Mix all well together, turn 
 into a mold and steam three hours. 
 Serve with lemon sauce. 
 
 Lemon Bice Pudding 
 
 Boil a cup of well washed rice in a 
 quart of milk imtil very soft. Add to 
 it while hot the beaten yolks of three 
 eggs, the juice and grated rind of two 
 lemons, eight tablespoons of sugar and 
 a pinch of salt. If too thick add a little 
 milk. It should be rather thicker than 
 boiled custard. Turn it into a pudding 
 dish, beat the ;whites of the eggs very 
 
MEMORANDA 181 
 
184 PUDDINGS 
 
 stiff with six tablespoons of powdered 
 sugar, spread over the top and brown 
 delicately in a slow oven. 
 
 JSew England Prune Pudding 
 
 Stew one pound of prunes until soft, 
 sweetening them to taste, and adding a 
 few slices of orange. Grange squares 
 of toasted whole wheat bread, buttered 
 and sprinkled with allspice, in the bot- 
 tom and around the sides of a baking 
 dish; then pour in the prunes boiling hot, 
 cover the dish so that the steam may not 
 escape, and let it cool gradually. When 
 ready to serve, cover the top with boiled 
 frosting garnished with squares of apple 
 jelly. 
 
 Baked Apple Dumplings 
 
 Cut a short pie crust into five or six- 
 inch squares. In the center of each 
 place a pared and neatly cored apple, fill- 
 ing the space with sugar and cinnamon, 
 if liked, also a clove. After wetting the 
 edges of the pastry with white of egg, 
 fold it over the apple, pinch and flute 
 them to look well, and encase the apple 
 completely. Bake from thirty to forty 
 minutes, toward the last brushing the 
 top with white of egg and dusting with 
 a little sugar. Serve with hard sauce. 
 
 Cranberry Pudding 
 
 Sift together one pint of flour, half a 
 teaspoon of salt, and three teaspoons of 
 baking powder. Add milk to make a 
 soft batter, stir in one cup of stiff rich 
 cranberry sauce, and steam for one hour 
 and a half. Serve with a cranberry 
 sauce made as follows: Into one quart 
 of boiling water stir one pint of gran- 
 ulated sugar, and cook over the fire until 
 thorough^ dissolved. Then add one 
 quart of sound crushed cranberries, cook 
 for five or ten minutes, strain through a 
 colander to remove the skins, and serve 
 at once. 
 
 Gooseberry Souffle 
 
 Boil one quart of fine gooseberries in 
 just enough water to keep from burning. 
 When soft press through a sieve. Beat 
 in the whites of five eggs which have been 
 whipped to a stiff froth with half a 
 pound of powdered sugar. Flavor with 
 nutmeg and lemon. When very stiff 
 whip lightly in the stifiy whipped whites 
 of three more eggs, and set the dish in a 
 hot oven for five minutes before serving. 
 
MEMORANDA 183 
 
186 PUDDINGS 
 
 Maple Shortcake 
 
 Mix and sift together two cups of flour 
 and a level tablespoon of baking powder. 
 Kub in one-haH cup of butter and mix 
 to a soft dough with milk. Spread the 
 mixture evenly over two buttered pie- 
 pans, brush with melted butter and bake 
 in a quick oven. Put together as layer 
 cake and spread between and on top 
 with 
 
 Maple Cream Filling 
 
 Cook three-'fourths of a cup of maple 
 syrup and a tablespoon of butter until 
 it spins a thread, then pour gradually 
 into the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. 
 When the mixture is smooth, add half 
 a cup of cream beaten until stiff and a 
 few drops of vanilla. 
 
 Lemon Snowhalls 
 
 Beat the yolks of three eggs until very 
 light; ad^ gradually one cup of granu- 
 lated sugar, three tablespoons of water, 
 the grated yellow rind of one lemon, two 
 tablespoons of lemon juice, and one cup 
 of flour in which has been sifted one 
 level teaspoon of baking powder. Then 
 fold in the stiffly whipped whites of the 
 eggs, and pour the batter into fifteen 
 little buttered cups. Steam for half an 
 hour, then turn out, roll in powdered 
 sugar, and serve with lemon or almond 
 sauce. 
 
 Turnovers 
 
 One cup of brown sugar, one cup of 
 lard, one egg, two cups of oatmeal, one 
 cup of sour milk, one teaspoon of soda, 
 one teaspoon nutmeg, salt and white 
 flour enough to roll out thin. Cut with 
 a thin cooky cutter. Fill with jam or 
 jelly, turn over and bake. 
 
 Stuffed Apples 
 
 Take good firm cooking apples, cut ofi 
 the blossom end, scoop out the core, fill 
 in with chopped pecans, two teaspoons 
 of sugar to an apple and a teaspoon of 
 brandy. Put in a pan vnth a little 
 water and bake until done, but not out 
 of shape. Just before serving press 
 down into the apples half a dozen 
 brandied cherries to each apple. 
 
 Oood Friday Pudding 
 
 One and one-half cups of bread 
 crumbs and the same quantity of 
 chopped apples; one cup of raisins and 
 
KBMOBANDA 185 
 
188 PUDDuros 
 
 three eggs. Put in buttered dish and 
 steam one and one-half hours. Serve 
 with warm sauce flavored with lemon 
 and brandy. 
 
 Indian Pudding (Enough for five people) 
 
 Scald one quart of milk in a double 
 boiler; while it is heating, take six 
 tablespoons of Indian meal, and stir it 
 up with one large cup of molasses, mix- 
 ing it in the buttered baking dish, which 
 should be a small stone jar, or an earthen 
 pan, deep, and shaped like a flower pot. 
 When stirred smooth, add the scalded 
 milk, stirring well. It will look very 
 thin, almost as if there were no meal in 
 it. Then scatter some small bits of 
 butter over the top, place jar in a mod- 
 erate oven and bake three or four hours. 
 When done it will be of a somewhat jelly- 
 like consistency, with some whey and 
 some clotted cream. Turn it out into a 
 pretty dish and serve with plain cream. 
 
 Rice with Fruit Sauce 
 
 In a double boiler, steam one-half cup 
 of rice in one pint of milk, season with 
 salt. Stone one cup of raisins, boil imtil 
 tender and add one-half cup of chopped 
 citron. From the water in which the 
 raisins were stewed make a syrup with 
 one-half the quantity of sugar. Boil 
 sugar and water five minutes, add two 
 tablespoons of cornstarch and boil ten 
 minutes, stirring constantly. Strain, add 
 two tablespoons of butter, flavor with' 
 sherry to taste and stir half the sauce 
 into the rice. Stir the cooked fruit and 
 two or three sliced bananas into the rest 
 of the sauce and pour over' the pudding. 
 
 Oooseberry Pudding (boiled) 
 
 Line a pudding dish with rich biscuit 
 crust rolled out half an inch thick. Fill 
 with uncooked gooseberries, liberally 
 sprinkled with brown sugar, and cover 
 with a top crust. Pinch the edges of the 
 .crusts well together, tie over it a floured 
 cloth, and boil for two and a half hours 
 in water which must not cease boiling 
 from the moment the pudding is put in 
 until it is done. Serve with sweet sauce. 
 
 Orange Bate Pudding 
 
 Place two tablespoons of grated 
 orange rind in a measuring cup and fill 
 the cup with mashed, stoned dates, cut 
 in small pieces. Add two cups of grated 
 bread crumbs, three-fourths cup of 
 
MEMORANDA 187 
 
190 PUDDINGS 
 
 6ugar and one egg beaten with one cup 
 of milk. Let it stand a few minutes, 
 then add one and one-fourth cups of 
 flour, sifted with two teaspoons of bak- 
 ing powder. Mix all together, pour into 
 a buttered mold and steam for two hours. 
 Serve with orange sauce. 
 
 Bancroft Pudding 
 
 Cream four tablespoons of butter and 
 one cup of sugar and add one weU-beaten 
 egg. Sift one and one-half cups of flour 
 with one-half teaspoon of salt and one 
 teaspoon of baking powder. Add one- 
 half cup of the flour to the first mixture 
 and beat thoroughly, then add the rest 
 of the flour and one-half cup of milk, al- 
 ternately. Finally beat one-fourth of a 
 square of chocolate into the batter and 
 bake thirty minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 Marmalade Bice Cups 
 
 Pour into small timbale molds suffi- 
 cient cooked rice to nearly fill them; 
 allow them . to cool and with a sharp- 
 pointed spoon scoop out the center of 
 each (this rice may be used for rice 
 cakes or muffins), unmold and place in a 
 baking pan, brush over the cups' with 
 melted butter and crisp in a hot oven for 
 ten minutes until well browned. Mean- 
 while prepare a rich orange marmalade 
 by peeling six oranges, boil this rind in 
 water for two hours, changing the water 
 three times to remove a little of the 
 bitter taste, cut the orange pulp in small 
 pieces and take out the seeds, adding the 
 cooked rind sliced in chips. Boil the 
 weight of the oranges in sugar with a 
 haM pint of water to form a clear syrup, 
 stir in the rind and pulp and boil for 
 thirty minutes until rich and thick. 
 Pour this while hot into the warm rice 
 cups and serve accompanied by a custard 
 sauce. 
 
 Strawberry Shortcake 
 
 To one pint of rich buttermilk add 
 one even teaspoon of baking soda and 
 beat well; stir in half a teaspoon of salt 
 and enough graham flour to make a bat- 
 ter rather stiffer than cake batter; pat 
 into two thin cakes and bake in a brisk > 
 oven. If you object to this amount of 
 crust lay one on top of the other to 
 bake, with bits of butter between. Have 
 ready a quart of strawberries sweetened 
 and mashed. Pull the cakes apart, but- 
 
MEMORANDA 189 
 
192 PUDDtNOS 
 
 ter and spread the fruit between and on 
 top. Eat with plenty of rich, sweetened 
 cream. 
 
 Pineapple Shortcake 
 
 Sift together one quart of flour, one 
 teaspoon of salt, three teaspoons of bak- 
 ing powder, add two-thirds of a cup of 
 butter, work it lightly through, and wet 
 it with cold milk as soft as can be 
 handled. Boll it, spread with melted 
 butter, and bake to a light, golden brown. 
 Lift off the top layer, spread it with but- 
 ter and put the pineapple between the 
 two layers and on top. Whip a pint of 
 rich cream with a tablespoon of powdered 
 sugar and heap it over the top. 
 
 Creamy Rice Pudding 
 
 To five cups of milk in a flat baking 
 dish add one-third cup of sugar, one- 
 quarter cup of washed rice, two tea- 
 spoons of cinnamon and one-half tea- 
 spoon of salt. Bake eight or nine hours., 
 stirring occasionally at first. 
 
 Bread Pudding 
 
 One cup of sour milk, two cups of 
 bread crumbs, one cup of flour, one-half 
 cup of butter, one cup of chopped 
 raisins, one small cup of preserved 
 strawberries, one cup of sugar, two eggs, 
 one teaspoon of soda, one teaspoon of 
 cinnamon. Mix sugar and butter to 
 cream; soak bread in milk with soda, 
 mix and add the other ingredients. 
 Steam two hours. Serve with whipped 
 cream. 
 
 Almond Pudding 
 
 Soak one cup of soft bread crumbs 
 in three cups of cream; stir in three 
 tablespoons of melted butter, half a 
 pound of sweet almonds, blanched and 
 pounded to a paste with two teaspoons 
 of rosewater, the yolks of seven and the 
 whites of tl^ee eggs; sweeten with half 
 a cup of sugar, and stir over the fire 
 until thick. Butter a pudding dish, pour 
 in the ingredients and bake half an hour. 
 When cold cover with a meringue made 
 of the remaining whites and four table- 
 spoons of sugar, and place in a cool oven 
 until lightly browned. Serve cold, in the 
 dish in which it was baked, accompanied 
 by a fruit sauce. 
 
MEMORANDA 191 
 
Cold Desserts 
 
 Lemon Cream, 
 
 Make a custard with one pint of thick 
 sweet cream, the well-beaten yolks of 
 three eggs, four tablespoons of sugar, 
 and the thin yellow rind of a lemon. 
 Eemove from the fire, and stir until 
 cold, or nearly so. Put the juice of a 
 lemon in a glass dish, pour the cream 
 upon it, and stir thoroughly. Serve 
 very cold with delicate cake. 
 
 Maple Custard 
 
 Beat well the yolks of three eggs, add 
 a third of a cup of rich maple syrup 
 and gradually two cups of hot milk. 
 Cook, surrounded by boiling water, stir- 
 ring constantly until the mixture com- 
 mences to thicken. Chill and add one- 
 half teaspoon of vanilla extract. Beat the 
 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, add a 
 fourth of a cup of sugar, turn into a 
 buttered mold, cover and cook, sur- 
 rounded by boiling water, for twenty 
 minutes. Cool in the form, then un- 
 mold and chill. Serve the custard in 
 a glass dish, place the meringue on top 
 of the custard and sprinkle with grated 
 maple sugar. 
 
 Prune Sponge 
 
 Heat the juice of two lemons and half 
 a cup .of sugar, add the yolks of three 
 eggs, and cook over hot water until 
 thick; then stir in half a package of 
 gelatine that has been dissolved in a 
 little warm water, and fold in the beaten 
 whites of three eggs. Pour into a fancy 
 border mold, and set on ice to harden. 
 When cold turn out and fill the center 
 with jellied prunes. Serve with sweet-' 
 ened whipped cream flavored with 
 powdered cinnamon. 
 
 Bice Custard 
 
 Soak half a cup of cold cooked rice 
 in a pint of hot milk until the grains 
 separate. Add the yolks of two eggs 
 beaten with two tablespoons of sugar, a 
 pinch of salt and a teaspoon of lemon 
 extract. Bake to a soft custard, then 
 cover with a meringue made with the 
 egg whites and four tablespoons of pow- 
 dered sugar. Serve cold. 
 
MEMORANDA 193 
 
196 COLD DESSERTS 
 
 Pompadour Bice 
 
 To a cup of cold, well-cooked rice add 
 a cup of whipped cream, half a cup of 
 chopped pineapple, sugar to taste and if 
 liked a dash of rum. Serve very cold 
 in punch cups, with a candied cherry 
 on each one. This is equally good made 
 with ginger preserved in syrup instead 
 of pineapple. 
 
 Glorified Bice Pudding 
 
 Bake in a slow oven for two hours, 
 two tablespoons of rice, one quart of 
 milk, sugar to taste, and a little vanilla. 
 Stir occasionally during the first hour. 
 When cold beat in one-half pint of 
 whipped cream. Serve very cold in 
 glass dishes, with fruit. 
 
 Bice Dessert with Chocolate Meringue 
 
 Cook one-quarter of a cup of well 
 washed rice in a double boiler with one 
 pint of scalded milk and one-third of 
 a teaspoon of salt. Add one level table- 
 spoon of butter, one-third cup of sugar, 
 one square of chocolate melted, half a 
 cup of seeded raisins, and one teaspoon 
 of vanilla. Cut and fold into the mix- 
 ture thf stiffly whipped whites of two 
 eggs and half a cup of whipped cream. 
 Pour into a buttered pudding dish and 
 cover with a meringue made with the 
 whipped whites of three eggs, and six 
 tablespoons each of powdered sugar and 
 grated chocolate. Brown in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 Prune and Bice Meringue 
 
 Prepare a rice croquette mixture, by 
 cooking a cup of rice in salted water 
 and adding to it, while warm, a table- 
 spoon of butter, one well beaten egg, a 
 teaspoon of vanilla and two tablespoons 
 of sugar. Spread this on the bottom 
 of a platter, and cover it with a layer 
 of stewed prunes; continue alternating 
 the layers, and making each succeeding 
 one slightly smaller, until the rice is all 
 used, so that the dish may be pyramidal 
 in form. Sprinkle lightly with powdered 
 sugar and coVer with a meringue made 
 from the whites of two eggs and a cup 
 of confectioner's sugar. Place in the 
 ice box until ready to serve and garnish 
 with small pieces of crystallized ginger. 
 
MEMORANDA 195 
 
198 ,^ COLD DESSERTS 
 
 Bice with Dates 
 
 Cook a cup of rice in. a double boiler 
 with a pint «ach of milk and water until 
 soft. Sweeten to taste, and flavor with 
 vanilla or lemon. Stone enough dates 
 to make a cup and stew until tender 
 with half a cup of sugar and one cup 
 .of water. Set aside until cold; then 
 turn out the rice in the center of a dish 
 and pour the dates around it. Serve 
 with or without whipped cream. 
 
 Maple Charlotte Busse 
 
 Soak a level tablespoon of granulated 
 gelatine in a fourth of a cjip of cold 
 water imtil softened; then add three- 
 fourths of a cup of hot maple syrup. 
 Stir vmtil the gelatine is dissolved; 
 strain and cool. Before it commences 
 to thicken, whip a pint of rich cream 
 until stiflf and dry, then add to it the 
 gelatine mixture, folding it in carefully 
 by the spoonful to keep it from lumping. 
 Lastly add a few drops of vanilla. Turn 
 into cups or one large mold rinsed in 
 cold water. ChiU thoroughly and serve 
 with sponge or angel cake. To make a 
 very rich pudding of the mixture stir 
 through it the last thing a cup of mixed 
 fruit and nuts cut fine, as raisins, 
 candied fruit, figs and pecans, almonds 
 or walnuts. Garnish and serve with 
 whipped cream. 
 
 Orange Trifle 
 
 Peel and quarter three large sweet 
 oranges, removing the seed; beat in a 
 granite saucepan two cups of thin cream, 
 sweetened with two tablespoons of 
 sugar, and when just at the boiling point 
 stir in a scant tablespoon of cornstarch 
 moistened with a very little cold water; 
 allow this to boil for a moment and add 
 a teaspoon of butter, a few drops of 
 lemon juice and a tiny pinch of cinna- 
 mon. Arrange in the bottom of an orna- 
 mental baking dish a layer of oranges; 
 sprinkle with powdered sugar and grated 
 cocoanut; pour over this a layer of the 
 cornstareh custard and continue in al- 
 ternate layers until the dish is nearly 
 filled ; place in a moderate oven and bake 
 slowly for thirty minutes. Cover when 
 cooked with a meringue made from the 
 whites of two eggs beaten with a table- 
 spoon of confectioner's sugar, returning 
 to the^ oven to brown slightly. - Deco- 
 rate with quarters of glace orange. 
 
UEMORANDA ' 197 
 
200 COLD DESSEBTS 
 
 Qinger Mousse 
 
 Boil haM a cup of sugar and a fourth 
 of a cup of water until it spins a 
 thread; pour slowly upon the stiffly 
 beaten whites of two eggs and whip, until 
 cold; then fold in a cup of whipped 
 eream and a cup of finely chopped pre- 
 served ginger. Pour into a melon mold 
 and cover with ice and rock salt, allowing 
 it to ripen for three or four hours hefore 
 serving. Serve with a sauce made from 
 the syrup of the preserved ginger, 
 slightly thickened. 
 
 Gooseberry Sponge 
 
 Soak one-half box of gelatine in half 
 a cup of cold water for one hour. Cook 
 one quart of gooseberries in a very little 
 water until soft. Press them through a 
 sieve, and sweeten with half a cup of 
 sugar. Boil one cup of sugar with one 
 cup of water for twenty minutes. Add 
 the soaked gelatine to the boihng syrup, 
 and stir until it is all dissolved. Remove 
 from the fire and add the gooseberry 
 pulp. Turn into a bowl and set this in 
 a pan of cracked ice. Whip with an 
 egg beater for five minutes or until it 
 begins to thicken. Then beat in the 
 stiffly whipped whites of four eggs, and 
 whip until it is quite stiff. Pour into 
 wetted molds and set on ice. When time 
 to serve turn out on a glass dish and 
 serve with whipped cream. 
 
 Baspherry Charlotte 
 
 Pick over a quart of red raspberries 
 and cook in a heavy sugar syrup until 
 tender; pour boiling hot by degrees over 
 a mound of ladyfeigers attractively 
 arranged in a standard glass dish; cover 
 with an inverted china bowl, allowing 
 it to remain until cool. Garnish with 
 ■tars of sweetened whipped cream, and 
 accompany with iced eggnog sauce. 
 
 Orange Food 
 
 Peel and carefully remove the skin 
 from six large oranges ; cut them in slices 
 and place in the double boiler with a tiny 
 pinch of baking soda and a cup of sugar 
 (inore if the oranges are very tart), cook 
 for twenty minutes, and press through a 
 sieve. Allow this to become thoroughly 
 chilled in the ice box, and at serving time 
 add the stiffly whipped whites of two 
 eggs beaten with two tablespoons of 
 sugar and then very gradually half a,>pint 
 
MEMOBANPA 199 
 
202 COLD DESSERTS 
 
 of whipped cream. Arrange on a large 
 round of sponge cake, with ladyfingers 
 inclosing the sides, fastened in place 
 with a little orange frosting; each finger 
 surmounted by a crystallized cherry. 
 
 Date Mold 
 
 Wash and soak a pound of dates in 
 four cups of cold water for two hours. 
 Drain ofiE the water, strain it, and put 
 it into a saucepan with one and one- 
 half cups of granulated sugar. Stir 
 until the sugar is dissolved. Stone the 
 dates and add them to the syrup. Cook 
 until they are tender. Just before re- 
 moving from the fire stir in half a box 
 of gelatine soaked in half a cup of cold 
 water for half an hour, and the juice of 
 one lemon. Stir over the fire until the 
 gelatine is all dissolved, then turn into 
 a wetted mold and set in a cold place 
 to harden for at least twelve hours. 
 Serve with whipped cream garnished 
 with walnut meats heaped round the 
 base of the mold. 
 
 Banana Snow 
 
 Peel and cut in small pieces three 
 bananas; sprinkle with a teaspoon of 
 lemon juice and half a cup of powdered 
 sugar; allow it to stand half an hour in 
 the ice box, then mash with a wooden 
 spoon and break in the white of one egg, 
 beating with a Dover egg beater until 
 light and fluffy. Select a deep wide 
 bowl for this purpose, as the mixture 
 increases surprisingly, and when quite 
 thick fold in a cup of whipped cream 
 and two tablespoons of grated coeoanut; 
 pile lightly in sherbet glasses,, and serve 
 very cold, with a tablespoon of iced 
 fruit sauce poured over each portion. 
 The sauce is easily prepared by slightly 
 thickening the juice of any preferred 
 fruit with a little arrowroot, then sweet- 
 ening it to taste; a subacid fruit is the 
 best for this purpose. 
 
 Lemon Blancmange 
 
 To one-third of a cup of lemon juice 
 add two-thirds of a cup of orange juice 
 and one cup of water. Bring to the 
 boiling point, then add three tablespoons' 
 of cornstarch mixed smooth in a little 
 cold water, a pinch of salt and tBiree 
 tablespoons of sugar. Let boil slowly 
 for ten minutes, stirring all the time, 
 then add the whites of three eggs beaten 
 to a stiff snow. Stir well, remove from 
 
1IBU0RA1?DA 9M 
 
204 COLD DESSERTS 
 
 the fire, and pour into a wetted mold. 
 Serve cold wil3i a custard made with the 
 yolks of the eggs, one pint of milk, two 
 and one-half tablespoons of sugar, and 
 half a teaspoon of lemon extract. 
 
 Date Blancmange 
 
 Flavor a quart of plain blancmange 
 with vanilla, stir in two cups of stoned 
 dates, pour into a mold and set on ice. 
 When cold turn out, and cover with 
 whipped cream or the sti£3^ whipped 
 whites of two eggs. Decorate with 
 halved English walnut meats. 
 
 Marshmallow Cream 
 
 Whip a half pint of cream, sweeten, 
 and set away on the ice. Cut in small 
 pieces one orange, two bananas, five 
 cents' worth of marshmallows, and a half 
 cup of walnut meats. If desired, add 
 two tablespoons of preserved pineapple. 
 Beat the chopped fruit and candy hghtly 
 into the cream, put in sherbet glasses, 
 add a cherry for ornamentation, and 
 serve at once. 
 
 m 
 Maple Mousse 
 
 Whip one quart of cream until quite 
 thick. Beat the yolks of three eggs in 
 another bowl until light and add grad- 
 ually one cup of maple syrup. When 
 the two are well mixed, whip them grad- 
 ually into the cream. Pour the whole 
 into the freezer or can, without the 
 dasher, or into a mold. Pack in ice and 
 salt, and let it stand three hours. 
 
 Fruit Snow 
 
 Drain the sjnrup from, a quart of 
 canned fruit, bring it to a boil and add 
 two level tablespoons of cornstarch, then 
 beat in the pulp of the fruit, and lastly 
 the well beaten whites of two eggS. Pour 
 into mold, cool, and serve with whipped 
 cream. It is even more delicate if half 
 the whipped cream is folded in before 
 serving. Any fruit can be used. 
 
 Fig and Banana Mousse 
 
 Slice equal quantities of figs and 
 bananas, sprinkle with powdered sugar, 
 and place in a mold half full of whipped 
 eream. Pack in ice and salt for two 
 hours before serving. The quantity of 
 each ingredient may vary according t« 
 supply at hand and as long as the 
 mold is full to running over the mousso 
 
MEMORANDA 203 
 
206 COLD DESSERTS 
 
 ■will be equally satisfactory. It is deli- 
 cious and may be served with or without 
 cal^e. I usually serve it alone for din- 
 ner, with cake for a formal luncheon. 
 
 Pineapple Sponge 
 
 To a quart of pineapple jelly, which 
 has stiffened to a syrupy consistency, add 
 the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs. 
 Beat together until the surface will hold 
 a drop of the mixture, turn into eggshells 
 from which one end has been cut, hav- 
 ing first moistened them with ice cold 
 water. When the sponge is firm, remove 
 the shells and serve in a bed of whipped 
 cream with a garnish of candied cher- 
 ries. 
 
 JeUy Surprise 
 
 Melt four tumblers of green grape 
 jelly over hot water. Add to one small 
 box of gelatine dissolved in one-half 
 cup of hot water. Strain the syrup 
 from a can of pineapple and line a ring 
 mold with pieces of pineapple, fill the 
 mold half fuU of the gelatine mixture, 
 and put on ice to harden. When stiff 
 add more pineapple and liquid jelly, fin- 
 ishing with the pineapple. Turn into 
 a flat dish, fill the center with whipped 
 cream and serve with wafers. 
 
 Grape Surprise 
 
 One pint of grape juice, one ounce of 
 gelatine, one cup of sugar, one lemon, 
 Malaga grapes, one-half cup of powdered 
 sugar. Grate the rind of a lemon and 
 mix it with powdered sugar. Dissolve 
 sugar and gelatine in the grape juice, 
 adding the juice of the lemon. Set to 
 harden. Remove skins and seeds from 
 enough Malaga grapes to fill a cup. 
 When the jelly begins to thicken, stir in 
 the grapes and pour into a mold. Serve 
 with cream and the prepared sugar. 
 
 Prune Jelly 
 
 Make a wine or fruit jelly. Eemove 
 the stones from large, stewed prunes, 
 place them in a glass dish, pour over 
 them the jelly, chill on ice and serve 
 with whipped cream. 
 
 Strawberry Trifle 
 
 Line a glass dish with alternate layers 
 of macaroons and sugared strawberries. 
 Make a custard of the yolks of three 
 eggs, a fourth of a cup of sugar and one 
 and a half cups of milk. Cool and 
 
MEMOSWDA 
 
208 COLD DESSERTS 
 
 pour over the contents of the dish. 
 Whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, 
 put into a buttered pudding dish, cover 
 and cook over hot water for twenty 
 minutes. When cold, turn out on to 
 the custard in the dish and sprinkle 
 with powdered macaroons. Serve very 
 cold. 
 
 Gooseherry Trifle 
 
 Stew and pulp the gooseberries as di- 
 rected for gooseberry fool, and add while 
 warm, one tablespoon of butter to every 
 quart. Add the well-beaten yolka of four 
 eggs, and two cups of powdered sugar. 
 Put in small glasses, filling them nearly 
 f uU. Make a meringue with the whites 
 of the eggs and four tablespoons of sugar, 
 and when the fruit is thoroughly chilled 
 heap it on top of the glasses. 
 
 Qooseberry Fool 
 
 Stew one quart of gooseberries in -ttie 
 smallest possible amount of water. When 
 soft, rub them through a sieve to remove 
 iSbie skins. Press hard so that every bit 
 of the pulp wiU go through. Add sugar 
 to make as sweet as desired, and to every 
 pint of pulp add vary slowly one pint of 
 cream or rich milk. Serve very cold 
 with delicate cake. 
 
 Duchess Prunes 
 
 "Erg diamonds of graham bread in hot 
 fat until a golden brown; drain and 
 place on a platter. Prepare a pound 
 of prunes, by soaking in cold water over 
 night; in 'Uie morning cook them in 
 Ifflnon syrup until tender, remove from 
 the fire, and stir into the syrup a table- 
 spoon of currant jelly and the stiffly 
 beaten white of one egg. Chill and in 
 the center of each piece of fried bread 
 place a heaping tablespoon of the pre- 
 pared prunes and cover thickly with 
 chopped pistachio nuts. 
 
 Apples in Maple Syrup 
 
 Cut eight apples in halves and remove 
 the cores, put in a saucepan with one 
 cup of maple syrup, two tablespoons of 
 butter, one and one-half cups of water. 
 Bake until the syrup is thick. Serve cold 
 with whipped cream. 
 
 Fig Pudding 
 
 Cook one cup of graham flour in two 
 cups of salted boiling water, in a double 
 boiler, until free from raw taste; then 
 
MEMORANDA 207 
 
210 COLD DESSERTS 
 
 add one-half pound each of chopped figs 
 and English wahiuts cut in quarters. 
 Cook three-quarters of an hour. Chill 
 and serve cold with whipped cream. 
 
 Dresden Chocolate Crumbs 
 
 Mix one cup of stale bread crumbs, 
 one-haK cup of grated unsweetened choc- 
 olate, two tablespoons of sugar, and one- 
 fourth teaspoon of salt. Put in a pan 
 and bake in a moderate oven until choc- 
 olate is melted and crumbs are thoroughly 
 heated. Fill individual paper cases 
 two-thirds with the mixture and top 
 with whipped cream sweetened and 
 flavored with vanilla. 
 
 Banana Dessert 
 
 A delicious dessert of bananas is made 
 by spHtting the bananas in two length- 
 wise; spread each inside strip with or- 
 ange marmalade, put together with a 
 thin slice of sponge cake or even light, 
 new white or entire wheat bread. Lay 
 the sandwiches on a pretty glass dish 
 and cover them with whipped cream 
 which has been sweetened and flavored 
 with almond extract. A few blanched 
 and chopped almonds mixed with the 
 cream are no detriment. 
 
 A Dainty Dessert 
 
 First a slice of fresh pineapple, then a 
 slice of orange, and on top of this a 
 mold of wine jelly. This is surmounted 
 by whipped cream and the whole sur- 
 rounded by tutti frutti sauce. Small 
 squares of unfrosted sponge cake should 
 be served with this. 
 
 Cream Dates 
 
 Clean, drain and dry the dates, stone, 
 and cut them in small pieces. Spread 
 one cup of these on a platter and sprin- 
 kle with lemon juice. Prepare two cups 
 of sweetened whipped cream, fold in the 
 stiffly^ whipped whites of two eggs and 
 stir in carefully the pieces of date. 
 Pile lightly in a glass dish, keep very 
 cold until time to serve, and serve with 
 it a delicate nut cake. 
 
 Apple Compote and Orange Marmalade 
 
 Boil one dozen tart apples in one quart 
 of water until tender. Strain through a 
 jelly bag, add one pound of granulated 
 sugar and let boil. While boiling, drop 
 mto it one dozen apples, cored and pared. 
 When the apples are tender, drain them 
 
HEUORANDA 209 
 
212 COLD DESSERTS 
 
 carefully on a preforated skimmer. Boil 
 the syrup until a jelly. Fill the apples 
 vrith orans:e marmalade, pour over these 
 the thickened syrup and serve with 
 whipped cream. 
 
 Prunes and English Walnuts 
 
 Cut equal quantities of stewed prunes 
 and English walnuts into thirds. Do 
 not chop as they will not look well. 
 Serve in sherbet glasses with whipped 
 cream. 
 
 Prunes on Toast 
 
 Put slices of stale bread on a plate in 
 the oven until nicely brown and crisp. 
 Remove, and butter slightly. Lay on a 
 small platter and pour over them stewed 
 prunes, sweetened to taste. Heap 
 whipped cream on each slice of toast and 
 serve at once. 
 
MEMORANDA gll 
 
Ices and Frozen Desserts 
 
 Ices are merely fruit juices diluted 
 with water, and sweetened. Sherbets and 
 punches imply the use of alcoholic liquor 
 and spices, though the former is now 
 commonly omitted. Ices, sorbets and 
 punches are frozen to a soft, smooth 
 mush and usually served in the middle 
 of the dinner before the game and salad 
 courses. 
 
 Sherbets are punches or ices to which 
 white of egg or gelatine is added and 
 the freezing continued until smooth and 
 stiff. Frappes and granites, as their 
 names imply, are frozen to a granular 
 mush with equal measures of salt and 
 ice. 
 
 Ice creams may be of two kinds. So- 
 called Philadelphia ice, cream is merely 
 a thin cream sweetened and flavored. 
 Plain ice cream has a custard foundation 
 to which cream, sugar and flavorings 
 are added. In making a fruit ice cream, 
 freeze the cream first to a soft mush, 
 then open the freezer, beat in the desired 
 fruit and continue freezing. 
 
 Mousses are mixtures of whipped 
 cream, custard and gelatine which are 
 frozen without beating or use of the 
 dasher. They are usually packed in 
 molds and are always buried in equal 
 measures of salt and ice. 
 
 All mixtures depend for their freezing 
 on a simple principle. Salt dissolves read- 
 ily in water. The ice in melting to allow 
 of this solution, loses its latent heat and 
 the temperature of the resulting brine 
 is much lower than that of the ice itself. 
 Therefore it is the brine which is valua- 
 ble, and the finer the ice is cracked the 
 easier is the process of solution. Do not 
 pour off the brine before the freezing is 
 completed. 
 
 Provide a strong burlap or water proof 
 bag and a heavy wooden mallet. Ice may 
 be crushed to a fine powder with these. 
 One cup of coarse rock salt to three cupa 
 of finely crushed ice is the best propor- 
 tion for ordinary freezing. ITse a layer 
 of ice first, then pack in the foregoing 
 proportion, turning the freezer crank oc- 
 casionally to shake and pack down the 
 mixture. Turn slowly, especiallyat first, 
 as a soft velvety cream depends in great 
 measure upon this. After freezing, if 
 
MEMORAKDA 213 
 
216 ICES AKD FROZEN DESSERTS 
 
 the cream is to ripen, pour off the brine 
 and repadc with the ice and salt this 
 time in the proportion of one cup of 
 salt to four cups of ice. 
 
 In molding creams or ices, if for large 
 molds, freeze rather soft; individual 
 molds need a stiffly frozen mixture. Ohill 
 the mold thoroughly and pack solidly 
 until it overflows. Cover with a but- 
 tered paper, press the cover down, bind 
 tightly with a narrow strip of buttered 
 cloth and pack deep in equal measures 
 of ice and salt. Four or five hours wiU 
 be needed. Molds which are divided in 
 halves should have each half packed sol- 
 idly; omit the buttered paper, but be sure 
 the mold is full to overflowing, bind with 
 the strip of buttered cloth and pack as 
 usual. 
 
 Apple Sherbet 
 
 Boil one quart of apples in a pint of 
 water until soft. Mash through a sieve. 
 Add the juice of one orange and one 
 lemon, one-half pound sugar and a quart 
 more of water. Beat well and freeze. 
 When of the consistency of snow, add 
 the beaten white of one egg and finish 
 freezing. 
 
 Ginger Ice 
 
 Boil one quart of water with two cups 
 of sugar for twenty minutes, add one- 
 half pin]b of lemon juice, one-half cup 
 of chopped preserved ginger, and one- 
 half cup of ginger syrup. Strain and 
 when cold freeze as usuaL 
 
 Lemon Sherbet 
 
 Juice of two lemons, one pint of 
 sugar. Let stand a while ; add one quart 
 of milk and freeze. 
 
 Orange Ice 
 
 Put one pint of water and one and 
 one-half cups of sugar on to boil; chip 
 the yellow rind of three oranges, add to 
 the syrup, boil five minutes, and stand 
 away to cool. Peel eight nice, juicy 
 oranges and one lemon, cut them in 
 halves, take out the seeds and squeeze 
 out all the juice; mix with the syrup, 
 strain through a cloth and freeze. 
 
 Frozen Strawberry Mousse 
 
 Whip one pint of sweet double cream 
 until thick. Fold in two cups of pow- 
 dered sugar, one-half cup of finely 
 chopped blanched almonds and one quart 
 
MEMORANDA 21S 
 
218 ICKS AKD FROZEN DESSERTS 
 
 of strawberries slightly crushed. Turn 
 into a pudding mold having a tube in 
 the center. Pack in ice and salt, cover 
 with a heavy blanket or piece of carpet, 
 and let stand in a cool place for three 
 or four hours. When ready to serve, 
 turn out carefully, and fill the hollow 
 center with sweetened berries mixed with 
 whipped cream. 
 
 Gooseberry Ice 
 
 Stew one quart of ripe gooseberries in 
 a very little water until soft, then press 
 through a fine sieve. Flavor with lemon 
 juice, and to every pint of- the goose- 
 berry juice allow one pound of loaf 
 sugar. Stir over the fire until the sugar 
 is dissolved, then cool, and freeze. 
 
 Prune Sherbet 
 
 Boil one pound of prunes in one cup of 
 water until very tender, strain through 
 a fine colander, adding a pint of sugar, 
 the juice of one lemon and half a cup 
 of maple syrup; return to the fire and 
 stir constantly to prevent burning, boil- 
 ing ten minutes. Remove, and when 
 thoroughly cold add the stiffly whipped 
 whites of two eggs ; turn into the freezer, 
 and when half frozen stir in a small 
 cup of chopped hickory nuts. Serve in 
 small sherbet cups, with a tablespoon of 
 whipped cream on each portion. 
 
 Grape Fruit Sorbet 
 
 EoU and press, then cut in half, ex- 
 tract the meat and juice, and free from 
 every seed. Squeeze out all the juice 
 into a deep bowl, and allow one pound of 
 sugar to every pint of juice (err on the 
 side of too much, rather than not 
 enough sugar). Stir thoroughly and 
 pour into the freezer. Freeze like 
 mousse, that is, "mossy," but not firm 
 like ice cream. 
 
 Cocoanut Ice 
 
 Boil one-half pound of sugar and one 
 pint of water together for five minutes, 
 add one-half pint of cocoanut milk to 
 the sjrup, let it come to a boil once, 
 then cool and freeze. This will serve 
 five persons. To obtain a cocoanut with 
 the requisite amount of milk, one must 
 insist upon having a nut with the eyes 
 on the surface. As the nuts age, they 
 dry, shrinking in the process, and the 
 eyes grow deeper. A reasonably fresh 
 specimen should furnish a trifle more 
 
K&MOBANDA 217 
 
220 ICES AND FBOZEir DES8EBTS 
 
 than a half pint of milk and the easiest 
 way of extracting it is to drive a nail 
 through the eyes, letting the milk drip 
 through these holes into a bowl. The 
 meat is thus left intact and ready for 
 other uses. 
 
 Tomato Sherbet 
 
 SiTTiTner together for twenty minutes 
 one quart of chopped tomato, one pint 
 of water, the juice of two lemons and 
 the grated rind of one, two cups of 
 sugar and half a teaspoon of ground 
 ginger. When sufioiently cooked pass 
 through a sieve, add four ounces of 
 crystallized cherries and two cups of 
 freshly grated apple. Freeze as usual, 
 adding when nearly frozen one glass 
 of Maraschino and the stifly whipped 
 whites of two eggs. 
 
 Frozen Peaches 
 
 . Dissolve two cups of granulated sugar 
 in the juice from one can of peaches. 
 Mash the peaches fine, place in freezer, 
 add the juice, and finally the well-beaten 
 whites of three eggs. Freeze as usual. 
 This will serve ten pers<»s. 
 
 Grape Sherbet 
 
 Boil one pint of water, one-half poimd 
 of sugar and a teaspoon of chopped 
 lemon rind five minutes. Strain and 
 when cool add the juice of one lemon, 
 one-half pint of grape juice and the 
 white of an egg. When cold, freeze. 
 Serve in frappe glasses. 
 
 Watermelon Sherbet 
 
 Eemove the edible pulp from an ice 
 cold watermelon and rub through a 
 fruit sieve, adding three tablespoons of 
 red currant juice, a scant cup of con- 
 fectioner's sugar and a tablespoon of 
 gelatine that has been softened, then 
 dissolved in a cup of warm water; turn 
 into the, freezer and when half frozen 
 stir in a cup of meringue made by 
 blending the whites of two eggs with 
 four tablespoons of sugar. Freeze to the 
 consistency of mush and serve in slender 
 crystal sherbet glasses, sprinkled with 
 minced candied orange peel. 
 
 Frozen Turkish Coffee 
 
 In lihis dessert coffee extract, obtain- 
 able at reliable druggists', gives better 
 results than the homemade product ; care 
 should be exercised in regard to the 
 
MEMOIJAKDA 219 
 
222 ICES AND FROZEir DESSERTS 
 
 (quantity used, which varies somewhat 
 to suit the taste. Cook half a cup of 
 sugar with half a cup of water to the 
 soft ball stage, and pour it slowly upon 
 the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, 
 beating constantly; when light and 
 creamy, add a pint of stiffly whipped 
 cream, a tablespoon of confectioner's 
 sugar, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, 
 a few drops of vanilla and about a tea- 
 spoon of coffee extract. Freeze as usual ; 
 serve in small crystal cups, garnishing 
 each with a star of whipped cream flav- 
 ored with almond extract. 
 
 Apricot Ice in Jelly Cups 
 
 Mix one pint of apricot pulp, the juice 
 of two oranges and one lemon, the 
 grated rind of the lemon and one pint 
 of syrup (made by cooking for ten 
 minutes two cups of sugar and one cup 
 of water). Freeze in the usual way. 
 
 For the jelly cups, make a lemon jelly 
 by softening one ounce of gelatine in 
 one-third of a cup of cold water, add a 
 pint of boiling water, stir until dis- 
 solved. Add a cup of sugar, and when 
 cool the grated rind of a lemon and the 
 juice of four. Stir in enough spinach 
 green to give a pretty green tint. Mold 
 in little border molds or patent charlotte 
 russe molds. When firm turn out and 
 fill the hollow centers with the ice, 
 which may be topped with a spoonful of 
 whipped cream or sprinkled with candied 
 mint leaves. 
 
 Mexican^- Ice Cream 
 
 Put a cup of granulated sugar into 
 a smooth saucepan over the fire and stir 
 constantly until it is melted, add a cup 
 of English walnut meats and pour into 
 a shallow buttered pan to harden. When 
 perfectly cold grate or chop fine. 
 Crumble twelve macaroons into fine 
 crumbs, then toast in the oven a few 
 moments. Make a custard of the yolks 
 of two eggs, a fourth of a cup of sugar 
 and a cup of milk, then pour over the 
 stiffly beaten whites of two eggs and let 
 cool. To a pint of cream add a third of 
 a cup of sugar and beat until thoroughly 
 mixed, add the custard and flavor with 
 vanilla or Maraschino, then freeze. 
 When half frozen, add the macaroon 
 crumbs and half of the grated walnut 
 mixture and finish freezing. Sprinkle 
 the remaining grated walnuts over the 
 cream at serving time. 
 
KEMORANDA 221 
 
224 ICES Am> FROZEN DESSEBTS 
 
 Peanut Ice Cream 
 
 One quart of thin cream, one cup of 
 rolled peanut meats, one cup of sugar, 
 one tablespoon of yaniUa. Mix all to- 
 gether and freeze. 
 
 Macaroon Ice Cream 
 
 One pint thin cream, two-thirds cup 
 sugar, one pint milk, one cup rolled mac- 
 aroons, one tablespoon vaniUa, two or 
 three eggs, speck of salt. Make a cus- 
 tard of the milk, eggs, sugar and salt. 
 Cool, add the vanilla and freeze. When 
 Bearly frozen add the macaroons, pre- 
 pared by drying in the oven; they are 
 then put through a meat chopper or 
 rolled. See illustration on page 22. 
 
 Frozen Pudding 
 
 Chop £ne a cup of English walnut 
 meats. Plump a cup of raisins by cov- 
 ering them with boiling water, drain 
 after fifteen minutes and roU in gran- 
 ulated sugar. Beat the yolks of four 
 eggs and half a eup of sugar until light, 
 add two tablespoons of cornstarch dis- 
 solved in a little cold milk and grad- 
 ually four cups of hot milk. Cook over 
 hot water for fifteen minutes, stirring 
 constantly until thickened, then occa- 
 sionally. When the mixture is cold add 
 vanilla to flavor, and freeze. When half 
 frozen add the whites of four eggs beaten 
 to a stiff froth with a fourth of a cup 
 of sugar, a cup of strawberry preserves, 
 and the prepared fruit and nuts, then 
 freeze imtil stiff. At serving time gar- 
 nish with whipped cream and English 
 walnxEt lialves. 
 
 Canton Nut Pudding 
 
 Prepare a rich, smooth custard from 
 a scant pint of milk, two eggs and a 
 tablespoon of sugar. When cold, add 
 a pint of whipped cream and a scant 
 cup of preserved ginger syrup; now 
 pour into the freezer, and when half 
 frozen stir in three tablespoons of 
 chopped walnuts and a cup of thinly 
 sliced Canton ginger. Ereeze hard and 
 serve in sherbet glasses, pouring over 
 each portion two tablespoons of im- 
 ported ginger ale. 
 
 Froeen Nut Pudding 
 
 Prepare a boiled custard by scalding 
 a pint of milk and then adding the yolks 
 of three eggs beaten with two table- 
 spoons of sugar; when of the right con- 
 
MEMORANDA 223 
 
226 ICES AND FROZEN DESSERTS 
 
 sistency remove from tlie fire and stir 
 in while hot four ounces of melted 
 chocolate ; allow it to cool and then add 
 a pint of whipped cream; turn into the 
 freezer, and when half frozen pour in a 
 cup of chopped nut meats, half a cup of 
 candied cherries, two tablespoons of 
 sliced preserved ginger and one table- 
 spoon of chopped preserved citron. 
 When frozen repack in a melon mold and 
 serve on a large platter surrounded by 
 burning brandy. 
 
 Biscuit Cream 
 
 Eub the yellow rind of two lemons 
 on lumps of cut sugar, then crush the 
 sugar to a powder, adding half a cup 
 of confectioner's sugar, twelve grated 
 macaroons and a pint of stiffly whipped 
 cream; turn into the freezer and as the 
 cream begins to stiffen stir in half a 
 pint of chopped Maraschino cherries, to- 
 gether with four tablespoons of the cor- 
 dial; continue freezing until very firm, 
 then pack in individual pyramid molds. 
 
 Banana Fluff 
 
 Slice six large bananas, sprinkle with 
 lemon juice and grated cocoanut and 
 place directly on the ice to chill and 
 ripen (for at least an hour). Mash 
 them smooth with a wooden spoon, add- 
 ing a scant cup of powdered sugar and 
 the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, 
 which should be lightly folded in; now 
 pour into the freezer, turning the crank 
 for abont four minutes, or until there 
 is a slight resistance, when half a pint 
 of whipped cream may, be added. Freeze 
 to the consistency of mush; serve in 
 individual crimped paper cases lined 
 with tiny Naple biscuits. 
 
 Maple Ice Cream 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs until light ; 
 add two-thirds of a cup of maple syrup 
 and half a cup of milk. Cook over hot 
 water, stirring constantly, until the mix- 
 ture thickens; then pour over the stiffly 
 beaten whites of two eggs and cool. 
 When cold add a cup and a half of 
 cream and freeze. 
 
 Pineapple Meringue 
 
 Select a medium-sized pineapple, slice 
 and cut in small cubes. Put it in an 
 enameled saucepan with one cup each 
 of granulated sugar and water. Stir 
 until the sugar is dissolved, and cook 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
228 ICES AND FROZEN DESSERTS 
 
 until rich and thick. Beat the yolks of 
 six eggs until light, and pour over them 
 three cups of scalding hot milk. Mix 
 well, turn into a double boiler, and stir 
 and cook until quite thick. Pour the 
 custard into a bowl, and chill on ice, 
 then add the pineapple and syrup. 
 Freeze quite stiff, and pack in a mold. 
 Cover closely, and pack in ice and salt. 
 Let stand for several hours to ripen. 
 Boil one-half cup of sugar with one- 
 fourth cup of water until it will thread, 
 add to it five of the egg whites whipped 
 to a very stiff froth, and beat until cold. 
 Turn the pudding quickly out of the 
 mold into a very cold fireproof dish. 
 Cover quickly with the meringue, and 
 put in a very hot oven until slightly 
 colored. Serve immediately. 
 
 Maple Bisque 
 
 Beat the yolks of three eggs until 
 light; add gradually three-fourths of a 
 cup of maple syrup, and cook standing 
 in a pan of boiling water, stirring con- 
 stantly until the mixture thickens and 
 coats the spoon. Take from the fire and 
 beat until cool. When it is quite cold 
 add it slowly to two cups of cream 
 beaten until stiff. Lastly fold in half a 
 dozen macaroons dried in the oven and 
 crumbled fine. Pack in ice and salt for 
 lour hours. TJnmold and serve with 
 whipped cream, sweetened to taste and 
 flavored with vanilla. Sprinkle the 
 cream with powdered macaroon crumbs. 
 
 Maple Ice Cream Sauce 
 
 Cook a cup of maple syrup and a table- 
 spoon of butter until it drops thick but 
 does not quite form a soft ball when 
 tested in cold water. Serve hot over 
 each portion of cream. Half a cup of 
 chopped pecans or English walnuts is a 
 delicious addition to the sauce. Serve 
 with vanilla or macaroon ice cream. 
 
 Straviberry Plomhiere 
 
 Wash and hull a quart of fine ripe 
 strawberries and press through a sieve. 
 Make a syrup with three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar and three-quarters of 
 a cup of water. Add this to the straw- 
 berry pulp, cool, put it into a freezer, 
 and turn until it begins to thicken. 
 Then stir in one pint of whipped cream 
 and let it remain a little longer in the 
 freezer. Put into a mold, cover tightly, 
 bind the edges with a strip of buttered 
 
MEMORANDA 227 
 
230 ICES AND FROZEN DESSERTS 
 
 paper, and pack in ice and salt for three 
 hours. When ready to serve, dip the 
 mold quickly in hot water, wipe dry, 
 and turn out on a shallow dish. Gar- 
 nish with macaroons and fine straw- 
 berries. 
 
 Iced Bice Pudding 
 
 Cover half a cup of well washed rice 
 with a quart of cold water, and set 
 it over the fire. When the water begins 
 to boil drain it off and cover the rice 
 with one quart of milk. Cook until the 
 rice is tender, then remove from the 
 fire and press through a sieve. Add a 
 pint of cream, two cups of sugar and 
 the beaten yolks of six eggs. Return 
 to the fire, and stir and cook for a few 
 minutes until it begins to thicken. Add 
 a teaspoon of vanilla and set aside to 
 ■ cool. When cold turn into a freezer and 
 freeze to a stiff mush. Then stir in one- 
 half cup of blanched chopped almonds 
 and one cup of rich preserved peaches 
 or strawberries, which have been drained 
 from the syrup and beaten to a pulp. 
 Stir thoroughly, add a pint of whipped 
 cream, cover and repack. Set aside for 
 two hours or longer. Turn out and serve 
 with a compote of the fruit. 
 
 Imperatrice Frozen Pudding 
 
 Steam a scant half cup of rice in 
 slightly salted milk; while still warm 
 stir in two well beaten eggs, two table- 
 spoons of powdered sugar, half a cup of 
 seeded raisins that have been boiled for 
 ten minutes, two teaspoons of chopped 
 candied orange peel and a pinch of 
 grated nutmeg; allow the mixture to 
 cool, but not harden, and then stir in 
 lightly a pint of stiffly whipped cream 
 sweetened with a scant cup of sugar. 
 Turn at once into a melon mold and 
 pack in ice and rock salt for three 
 hours before using. When ready to 
 serve unmold on a cut glass platter, 
 garnishing with glace oranges. 
 
 Frozen Orange Pudding 
 
 Prepare a rich boiled custard by slowly 
 heating a pint of milk in the double 
 boiler, adding two well beaten eggs and 
 two tablespoons of sugar; stir until it 
 thickens well; remove from the fire and 
 flavor with the juice of one orange and 
 the grated yellow rind. While this is cool- 
 ing, peel two oranges, and, removing pits 
 
3IEH0RANDA 229 
 
232 lOES AND FBOZEK DESSERTS 
 
 and every particle of white skin, flake 
 the pulp into small bits with a silver 
 fork; sprinkle liberally with powdered 
 sugar and pour over, if you wish, a table- 
 spoon of sherry. To the cold custard add 
 a half pint of sweetened whipped cream 
 and turn at once into the freezer, stirring 
 in when half frozen the prepared orange 
 pulp and a small cup of grated maca- 
 roon crumbs ; continue the freezing until 
 very stiff and then pack in a melon mold. 
 
 Macaroon Mousse 
 
 Scald one dozen macaroons in a cup 
 of milk, and pour gradually upon the 
 beaten yolks of three eggs, cooking over 
 hot water until slightly thickened; when 
 almost cold, fold into the mixture the 
 stiffly beaten whites of three eggs, half 
 a cup of powdered sugar, and half a pint 
 of whipped cream. Turn into a brick 
 mold and freeze by covering with ice and 
 rock salt. At serving time garnish with 
 French candied fruit arranged on a 
 border of whipped cream. 
 
 Maple Nut Mousse 
 
 Soak two level teaspoons of gelatine in 
 two tablespoons of cold water, and dis- 
 solve it in a cup of hot maple syrup; 
 remove from the fire and beat until cool, 
 then add a pint of thick cream that has 
 been whipped with a teaspoon of pow- 
 dered sugar and half a cup of finely 
 chopped hickory nuts. Line a round 
 mold with halved ladyfingers, holding 
 them in place with a little fondant, fill- 
 ing the center with the mousse mixture ; 
 be sure that the cover is securely 
 adjusted and bury in ice and salt for 
 three hours. When ready to serve, un- 
 mold, covering the top with chopped 
 nuts, and serve with a sauce. 
 
 Bice Mousse with Prunes 
 
 Cook one-fourth of a cup of rice in a 
 cup and a half of milk, imtil very soft. 
 Make a rich boiled custard, with the 
 yolks of two eggs, half a cup of sugar 
 and half a cup of milk, adding two 
 tablespoons of gelatine softened in a little 
 cold water; strain this over the cooked 
 rice and when cold, add a pint of 
 whipped cream, twelve sifted prunes and 
 a few drops of lemon juice. Mold in a 
 fancy mold and pack in ice, and salt for 
 three hours before serving, garnishing 
 with squares of prune jelly and large 
 stuffed prunes. 
 
MEMORANDA 231 
 
Pastry 
 
 Puif Paste 
 
 First, in the preparation of puff paste, 
 choose a cool corner to work in and if 
 possible, have plenty of cracked ice at 
 hand. Weigh one-half pound of pastry 
 flour and one-half pound of butter. 
 Waih the latter in a bowl of ice water as 
 in the illustration. Wash and knead 
 until not a drop of water is left in the 
 butter and it is smooth and waxy. 
 
 Now pat it into a round one-half inch 
 thick, and place on ice. Work one table- 
 spoon of butter into the flour and mix 
 enough ice water with it to make a stiff 
 dough, then knead on a floured board one 
 minute. Cover with a clean cloth, and 
 let it stand five minutes. Next roll the 
 dough into an oblong sheet one-fourth 
 . inch thick and be careful to have the 
 corners square. Pat into shape if neces- 
 sary; put the butter on this and fold the 
 free end over, striking lightly each edge 
 to imprison the air. Fold the right side 
 over, the left under the inclosed butter, 
 swing the paste half around, cover and 
 wait five minutes. Now roll with light, 
 even strokes into the oblong sheet, fold 
 from the ends toward the center, form- 
 ing three laps. Again cover and leave 
 five minutes. Eepeat the same process 
 twice; renaember to keep a square-cor- 
 nered rectangle of paste; do not neglect 
 the chilling or think three instead of five 
 minutes long enough to wait. 
 
 For the last time roll, but fold in four 
 layers, like a pocketbook. Place on ice 
 and chill through bef qre cutting. Shape 
 with fluted or plain cutters into tarts 
 and patty shells. Again chill and bake 
 twenty-five to thirty minutes in a very 
 hot oven. From the left-overs cut tiny 
 buttons one-half inch in diameter to serve 
 with clear soups. EoU out all the rem- 
 nants into a thin sheet, grate hard cheese 
 over this and cut in narrow strips three 
 inches long. These are delicious with 
 any soup. Serve in the shells shaved 
 celery, stewed in cream and seasoned 
 with pepper, salt and shredded olives, a 
 newburg or a shrimp wiggle ; in fact, use 
 any of the creamed entrees with your 
 pastry. To vary a rabbit, fill the patties 
 with hot apple sauce, then cover with 
 the rabbit. See illustration on Page 23. 
 
MEMORANDA 233 
 
236 PASTRY 
 
 Plain Pie Crust 
 
 Place in a chopping bowl one and one- 
 haK cups of flour, one-quarter cup of 
 butter, one-quarter cup of lard, one tea- 
 spoon of salt. With a sharp chopping 
 knife, chop the shortening thoroughly 
 through the flour, after which add just 
 enough ice water to hold the mixture 
 together (from one-quarter to one-half 
 cup is sufficient), chopping all the time 
 until a smooth dough is formed, which 
 should be allowed to stand in a cold place 
 for a day at least before using. 
 
 Shaker Pastry 
 
 Mix one quart of flour, one teaspoon of 
 salt, one cup of fresh beef drippings, and 
 one cup of cream, add water enough to 
 make a dough. Eoll out a bit of this 
 mixture, spread with soft butter, sprinkle 
 with flour, and roll up like jelly cake, cut 
 off a portion, stand on end, heap on flour 
 and roll out. This makes the flakes of 
 the top crust. The lower crust is rolled 
 out from the plain mixture. 
 
 Shaher Apple Pie 
 
 Put into the lower crust sour apples, 
 pared, cored and cut into eighths; add a 
 generous half pint of seeded raisins and 
 put on the top crust. Cut it around the 
 plate, being careful not to let it stick to 
 the lower crust. Bake in a slow oven till 
 the apple is thoroughly cooked and the 
 crust is a nice brown, both top and bot- 
 tom; this requires about forty minutes. 
 While it is still hot take off the top crust 
 and lay it carefully aside, then with a 
 wooden knife stir the apple, removing 
 the hard pieces, if any are left. Add 
 sugar, cinnamon or nutmeg to taste, 
 and a small piece of butter. Replace the 
 top crust. Tin plates are best for the 
 baking of these pies, but they should 
 never be put away on the same plates in 
 which they are baked. 
 
 Maple Custard Pie 
 
 Beat two eggs and a third of a cup of 
 grated maple sugar, add a level table- 
 spoon of flour and gradually two cups 
 of milk. Turn into a deep pastry lined 
 pan, dust slightly with cinnamon or nut- 
 meg, and bake in a quick oven at first, to 
 set the crust, then lower the tempera- 
 ture. 
 
MEMORANDA 235 
 
238 PASTRY 
 
 A New Mince Pie 
 
 The new thing about this pie is the 
 filling, which has a different flavor from 
 the ordinary kind because the meat in 
 the mince is not twice cooked. Take 
 one cup of raw beef chopped fine— this 
 must be free from gristle and fat — ^mix 
 it with three cups of tart apples, chopped 
 fine. Add one cup of currant jelly, 
 juice and grated rind of two oranges and 
 one lem^on, one cup of sugar, one tea- 
 spoon each of salt, cinnamon, cloves and 
 allspice, and half a teaspoon of pepper 
 and nutmeg. Make soft and moist with 
 sweet cider, and add plenty of raisins, 
 currants, citron and candied orange peel, 
 and a very little chopped suet, if you 
 like suet. This will make three pies, 
 and if the three pies are not all made 
 at once, the remainder of the mince 
 should be canned for future use. For 
 a winter novelty, make patties of this 
 mince meat, cover with a lattice crust, 
 and, when ready to serve, pour a table- 
 spoon of brandy over each tiny pie, light 
 it, and place it before each guest. Mince 
 pie should always be served warm. 
 
 A Pumphin Pie 
 
 Steam a small pumpkin, pared and 
 cored, until tender, pressing through a 
 fruit press or sieve to remove any lumps ; 
 season with a tablespoon each of ground 
 ginger and cinnamon and stir in while 
 still warm the yolks of two well beaten 
 eggs, a tablespoon of melted butter, one 
 tablespoon of sifted wheat flour, the 
 grated rind of one orange, a teaspoon of 
 salt, one cup of raisins boiled till plump 
 and a cup of cream, or enough to form 
 a thick batter; sweeten to taste and ar- 
 range in deep pie plates lined with rich 
 pie crust; bake in a moderately quick 
 oven to a golden brown. 
 
 Shaker Mince Pie 
 
 To three quarts of sour apples, pared, 
 cored and chopped, allow one quart of 
 beef, boiled tender and chopped fine; if 
 very lean put in a little butter. Add a 
 pound of seeded and a pound of seedless 
 raisins, one cup of grape jelly, or two 
 of grape juice, two pounds of sugar, a 
 tablespoon of salt, and cook all together 
 until the apple is soft. When cool add 
 two tablespoons of cinnamon, one each 
 of ground clove, ginger and allspice, and 
 two grated untmegs; the spices should 
 be mixed together carefully before being 
 
MEMORANDA 237 
 
240 PASTRY 
 
 added to the rest. If the mincemeat is 
 not tart enough, flavor with a little 
 boiled cider or the juice and grated rind 
 of a lemon. More sugar or salt may be 
 added if desired. 
 
 Date and Apple Pie 
 
 Line a pie plate with a rather rich 
 crust, fill it with a mixture of chopped 
 dates and apples, sprinkle over hall a 
 teaspoon of cinnamon and half a cup of 
 sugar, cover with a top crust, and bake 
 about half an hour in a good oven. 
 Serve hot or cold with or without cream 
 and sugar. 
 
 English Walnut Pie 
 
 Beat the yolks of two eggs and half a 
 cup of sugar to a cream, add a table- 
 spoon of lemon juice, the juice and 
 half the grated rind of an orange and 
 haK a cup of chopped English walnut 
 meats. Line a deep pie plate with 
 pastry, and when half baked add the 
 filling and finish baking. Cover with a 
 meringue made of the whites of two eggs, 
 two tablespoons of sugar and two table? 
 spoons of chopped walnuts. 
 
 Apple and Cocoanut Pie 
 
 Line a deep pie plate with pastry. 
 Pare and grate some apples, sweeten and 
 flavor to taste, using a bit of cinnamon 
 and either lemon juice or vanilla. Sprin- 
 kle the pastry generously with some 
 shredded cocoanut, cover with the apple 
 mixture and bake. When almost done 
 sprinkle with cocoanut and do not leave 
 in the oven long enough to brown. 
 
 Fairy Apple Pie 
 
 Core and quarter without paring, four 
 large, tart apples, steam over hot water 
 until tender, rub through a sieve, 
 sweeten to taste and chill. Beat the 
 whites of three eggs until stiff and dry, 
 add the apples, flavor to taste and beat 
 again. Turn into a half-baked pastry 
 shell and finish baking in a moderate 
 oven. Serve hot with cream and sugar 
 or whipped cream. 
 
 Marlborough Pie 
 
 Pare and stew some tart, juicy apples 
 until tender, then rub through a sieve. 
 To a cup of the hot mixture add a table- 
 spoon of butter and a cup of sugar and 
 stir until thoroughly blended; then add 
 in succession the grated rind and juice 
 
Kemobanda 239 
 
242 PASTRY 
 
 of half a lemon, the yolks of two eggs 
 beaten with half a cup of cream and, if 
 desired, a third of a cup of wine. Line 
 a deep pie plate with pastry, brush 
 with white of egg and sprinkle with a 
 third of a cup each of raisins and 
 chopped nuts (either English walnuts or 
 almonds). ' Pour in the apple mixture 
 and bake in a moderate oven. Cover 
 with a meringue. Brown in a very slow 
 oven. 
 
 Squash Pie 
 
 Mix four tablespoons of sifted squash 
 
 with one quart of milk. Season to taste 
 
 with sugar, cinnamon, salt and ginger. 
 
 Mix one teaspoon of cornstarch with two 
 
 crackers rolled to a powder, moisten with 
 
 one-half cup of the seasoned milk; then 
 
 combine and cook all over hot water until 
 
 free from raw taste. Bake in a crust 
 
 as usual. 
 
 t 
 
 Ladylochs 
 
 Butter the ladyloek irons, cut puff or 
 plain paste into "ribbons" an inch wide, 
 then wrap a "ribbon" about each iron 
 lightly, winding from the small end to 
 the large end. Let each edge merely 
 touch the other, without overlapping. Lay 
 the paste-covered irons on a wire frame 
 and set in a hot oven to bake delicately 
 brown. If desired as a course for supper 
 or luncheon, slip them off the irons on a 
 hot platter and fill with creamed chicken, 
 sweetbreads, oysters, mushrooms or lob- 
 ster. Serve individually with a spoonful 
 of the white sauce which goes inside, 
 poured around them. On top of the sauce 
 put a sprinkling of chopped parsley or 
 browned bread crumbs. During short- 
 cake season serve cold filled with straw- 
 berries, raspberries or cherries, well pow- 
 dered with sugar, and garnished with 
 whipped cream. Fill them with whipped 
 cream, sweetened and flavored with va- 
 nilla, then pour over each a chocolate 
 frosting. Or make the filling after any 
 recipe for lemon pie and cover the top 
 with a meringue, browning it delicately 
 in a moderate oven. See illustration on 
 page 28. 
 
 Lemon Custard Pie ' 
 
 Beat the yolks of three eggs and one- 
 half pound of powdered sugar to a 
 cream, then add the unbeaten whites of 
 two eggs and whip all together until 
 very light. Add the grated rind and 
 
MEMORANDA 241 
 
244 PASTRY 
 
 juice of three lemons and one tablespoon 
 of butter. Cook in a double boiler until 
 the mixture thickens, then set aside 
 until cool. Line a pie plate (a deep one) 
 with good paste, prick it well, and bake 
 in a quick oven. "When done, fill with 
 the lemon custard. Beat the white of 
 one egg with two tablespoons of pow- 
 dered sugar, spread it over the top of 
 the pie, and brown very delicately in a 
 slow oven. 
 
 Cheese Heartlets 
 
 For these delicious little cakes, use a 
 cream cheese, adding half a cup of 
 powdered sugar, two tablespoons of 
 cream and three well beaten eggs, flavor 
 with almond and beat the mixture until 
 smooth. Bake in small heart shaped 
 tins, lined with puff paste. 
 
 Richmond Maids of Honor 
 
 Line small patty tins with paste, fill 
 with the following mixture, and bake in 
 a moderate oven twenty minutes. Mix 
 one-fourth cream cheese (the ten-cent 
 size) and two tablespoons sifted saltine 
 crumbs and work with a small wooden 
 spoon until smooth; then add one-fourth 
 irup sugar, and one egg well beaten. 
 Blanch one-third cup almonds, put 
 through an almond grater, add three tea- 
 spoons of milk and pound in a mortar. 
 Add to first mixture and beat thoroughly; 
 then add one-fourth cup heavy cream, 
 one teaspoon melted butter, one-half tea- 
 spoon salt and one-fourth teaspoon each 
 grated nutmeg and almond extract. 
 They 're a bit of work, these Richmond 
 maid,. honor, but the time used in 
 their prev-iration is far from wasted. 
 
 Cheese Straws 
 
 A pleasing variation of the old but 
 always popular cheese straws and cheese 
 fingers, is made thus: Melt one table- 
 spoon of butter, add one and one-half 
 tablespoons of flour and pour on one- 
 fourth cup of milk. Add one-fourth 
 cup, each, of grated cheese and cheese 
 cut in small cubes, and one egg white, 
 unbeaten. Season with salt, paprika 
 and cayenne. Bake pastry in finger- 
 shaped pieces, split and spread with 
 cheese mixture. Heat slightly before 
 serving. 
 
MEMORANDA 243 
 
246 PASTRY 
 
 Pumpkin Fanchonettes 
 
 Mix one and one-half cups of stewed 
 pumpkin very dry, with, two cups of 
 milk, one beaten egg, a half cup of 
 brown sugar, one teaspoon of cinna- 
 mon, one-half teaspoon each of salt and 
 ginger. Line individual tins with 
 pastry and bake in a slow oven until 
 brown on top. 
 
 Cranberry Patties 
 
 Line patty pans with rich paste, and 
 bake till done in/ a hot oven. When 
 baked remove from the oven and let 
 cool, rill with rich jellied cranberry 
 sauce, and spread with a meringue made 
 with the white of one egg and half a 
 cup of powdered sugar. Put in a cool 
 oven until a pale straw color. 
 
 Gocoanut Custards 
 
 One grated cocoanut, one pound of 
 sugar, one-fourth pound of butter, one 
 cup of cream. Add the beaten whites 
 of nine eggs, and season with essence of 
 lemon. Bake in small shapes lined with 
 rich puff paste. 
 
 Strawberry Pie 
 
 Line a deep pie plate with puff paste, 
 prick it well, and bake to a delicate 
 brown. Fill it, when cold, with fine ripe 
 strawberries, sliced and sweetened, and 
 pour over a cup of whipped cream which 
 has been sweetened, flavored with lemon, 
 and whisked lightly into the stiffly 
 whipped whites of two eggs. Another 
 delicious pie may be made by pouring 
 a pint of rich custard while still warm 
 over the strawberries in the paste. Serve 
 very cold. 
 
 Pumpkin Patties 
 
 This delicious sweet may be appro- 
 priately served for the Thanksgiving 
 supper and is made by paring and cubing 
 sufficient pumpkin to make two quarts; 
 place in a steamer with a little water 
 and cook until tender, seasoning with 
 a teaspoon of salt and one of mixed 
 spices ; then pass through a rieer, adding 
 half a cup of whipped cream, two table- 
 spoons of sugar, the whites of two eggs 
 beaten stiff, and a cup of chopped dates ; 
 blend to a cream and fill into patty 
 shells, returning to the oven to be re- 
 heated; cap with the paste top, orna- 
 menting the top of each with a large 
 crystallized cherry. 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
248 PASTRY 
 
 Christmas Tarts 
 
 The foundation for these pastry tid- 
 bits is usually puff paste, but the foUow- 
 ingr simpler paste may be used: Mix 
 and sift together two cups of flour, two 
 teaspoons of baking powder and a salt- 
 spoon of salt. Work in a cup of butter 
 with the tips of the fingers. When the 
 mixture is as fine as meal, stand it 
 aside an hour or more to chill. Then 
 take out half a cup and to the remainder 
 add cold water gradually to make a stiff 
 dough. Knead slightly, turn on a floured 
 board and roll into a long, narrow strip. 
 Sprinkle the dough with half of the 
 reserved mixture and fold so as to make 
 three layers. Turn half way round with 
 the open end toward you, roll again 
 into a strip, sprinkle with the remain- 
 ing mixture and fold as before. Eoll 
 and fold twice more, and the pastry is 
 ready to use. Eoll into a thin sheet 
 and cut into various shapes, as hearts, 
 circles, strips and diamonds. See page 
 26. 
 
 Fruit Bissolettes 
 
 Put half a cup of water, a cup of 
 sugar, a cup of seeded raisins, half a 
 cup of chopped nuts, half a cup of tart 
 jelly and a quarter of a cup of sliced 
 citron together in a granite saucepan 
 and cook until thick like preserve. Add 
 the juice of half a lemon, take from the 
 stove and cool. If still too thin to be 
 firm cook a little longer or stir until 
 thickened. Bake the pastry and spread 
 with this mixture. 
 
 Polish Tarts 
 
 Cut the paste into two and a half- 
 inch squares, brush with the white of 
 an egg, fold the comers to meet in the 
 center, press slightly together and bake. 
 When done put a bit of jelly or fruit 
 cream in the center. Or fold only the 
 two opposite corners together, bake and 
 fill with the fruit cream. 
 
 Fruit Tarts 
 
 Bake the pastry in small patty tins 
 and fill with the fruit cream. Cover 
 with a meringue to which chopped nuts 
 may be added or dust the tarts with 
 powdered sugar for serving. 
 
 Neapolitans 
 
 Cut the pastry into strips, bake, spread 
 with jelly or fruit cream and cover with 
 nut icing, then put in the oven until a 
 
MEMORANDA 247 
 
250 PASTRY 
 
 delicate brown. Garnish a few with half 
 nuts or sprinkle with chopped nuts be- 
 fore browning. 
 
 Chocolate Pie 
 
 Line a deep pie pan with rich pie 
 crust and bake in a quick oven. Grate 
 one-half cup of chocolate, place in a 
 saucepan with one cup of hot water, but- 
 ter the size of an egg, one tablespoon va- 
 nillaj one cup of sugar, the beaten yolks 
 of two eggs and two tablespoons of corn- 
 starch (dissolved in as much water). 
 Mix well, cook until thick, stirring con- 
 stantly. Pour into the pie shell and let 
 cool. Make a meringue of the two egg 
 whites beaten stiff, with two tablespoons 
 of powdered sugar, spread over the pie 
 and slightly brown in the oven. 
 
 Mincemeat 
 
 Take two pounds of finely chopped 
 suet, four pounds of grated bread crumbs, 
 four pounds of currants, four pounds of 
 raisins, five pounds of brown sugar, one 
 and one-half pounds of candied peel, 
 lemon, orange and citron, six pounds of 
 apple, weighed after being chopped, two 
 tablespoons of cinnamon, two tablespoons 
 of cloves, one tablespoon of mace, one 
 tablespoon of salt and two quarts of 
 boiled cider. The ingredients are 
 blended without being boiled; put away 
 in jars set in a cool place' this mince will 
 keep. 
 
MEMORANDA 249 
 
Cakes and Cookies 
 
 Use only the beat of material in cake 
 makins. Cooking butter will not make 
 good cake. Coarse granulated sugar 
 makes a heavy cake. Use a fine granu- 
 lated. Pastry flour contains less of the 
 sticky gluten than bread flour and there- 
 fore is better where baking powder is 
 used for leavening. Should it be neces- 
 sary to use bread flour, two tablespoons 
 less for each cup will be needed. 
 
 Measure all ingredients, slightly warm 
 the flour, if chilled, butter the cake pans, 
 have all needed utensils at hand, and see 
 that the fire is in good condition, coal 
 must not be added while cake is baking, 
 before beginning the actual mixing. 
 
 Sponge cakes which depend for their 
 raising on the amount of air beaten into 
 the batter need a long slow cooking in 
 a moderate oven; butter cakes on the 
 contrary require a hot oven, slightly 
 cooled the last quarter. Cake may be 
 looked at while in the oven if the door 
 be opened so gently that no current of 
 air be forced into the oven ; do not move, 
 however, until risen to the full hight of 
 the loaf. If the oven is too hot place a 
 pan filled with cold water in the oven. 
 
 Sunshine Cake 
 
 Whites of seven eggs, yolks of five, 
 one and one-quarter cups granulated 
 sugar, one cup flour, scant one-third tea- 
 spoon cream of tartar, a pinch of salt 
 added to the whites of eggs before whip- 
 ping; flavor to taste. Sift, measure and 
 set aside flour and sugar; separate the 
 eggs, putting the whites in the mixing 
 bowl and the yolks in a small bowl; beat 
 yolks to a very stifE froth; whip whites 
 to foam, add cream of tartar, and whip 
 until very stiff; add sugar to the whites 
 and beat in ; then yolks and beat in, then 
 flavor and beat in; then flour, and fold 
 lightly through. Put in a moderate 
 oven at once; will bake in twenty to 
 forty minutes. 
 
 Chocolate Loaf 
 
 Three eggs, beaten separately; one 
 and one-half cups granulated sugar, one- 
 half cup butter, three-quarters cup sweet 
 milk, two and one-half cups flour, one 
 teaspoon cream of tartar, one-half tea- 
 
MEMORANDA 251 
 
254 OATEES AND COOKIES 
 
 spooii soda, and two squares of chocoiate. 
 To the chocolate add one-half the milk 
 and stir over a slow fire until thoroughly 
 dissolved; add one-half cup of sugar, 
 and stir until thoroughly mixed; then 
 set aside to cool. Sift flour once, then 
 measure, add soda, and sift three times; 
 cream butter and the remainder of the 
 sugar thoroughly; beat yolks to a stiff 
 froth and stir in ; whip whites to a foam, 
 add cream of tartar and whip until stiff ; 
 add the remainder of the milk tp the 
 chocolate, and stir until thoroughly 
 mixed; add this mixture to the creamed 
 butter, sugar and egg yolks, then the 
 flour and stir hard;' beat in the whites 
 of the eggs and bake in a slow oven forty- 
 five minutes. 
 
 Sponge Cake 
 
 Five large or six small eggs, one and 
 one-half cups granulated sugar, one and 
 one-half cups flour, , scant one-third tea- 
 spoon cream tartar, a pinch of salt and 
 flavor to taste. Make exactly like sun- 
 shine cake; bake in a slow oven twenty- 
 five to forty-five minutes. 
 
 White Loaf 
 
 Whites of eight eggs, one and one- 
 quarter cups granulated sugar, three- 
 quarters cup butter, one-half cup sweet 
 milk, two and one-half cups flour, one 
 teaspoon cream of tartar, scant one-half 
 teaspoon soda ; flavor to taste. Sift flour 
 once, then measure, add soda and sift 
 three times; cream butter and sugar 
 thoroughly; whip whites of eggs to a 
 foam, add cream of tartar, and whip 
 until very stiff; add to the creamed but- 
 ter and sugar, then add milk, flour, and 
 flavor, and stir very hard. Bake in a alow 
 oven thirty to fifty minutes. 
 
 Gelatine Cream Odke 
 
 Sift sugar and flour several times 
 before measuring. Beat the whites of 
 three eggs until stiff and dry, fold in 
 gently a cup of sugar and flavor with 
 vanilla. Beat the yolks of three eggs 
 until light, add two teaspoons of lemon 
 juice, and a fourth of a cup of hot 
 water, then add to the first mixture; 
 lastly fold in a cup of flour. Bake in a 
 large square pan in a moderate oven; 
 when cold, cut into two-inch squares. 
 Soak a level tablespoon of granulated 
 gelatine m a fourth of a cup of cold 
 water; dissolve in half a cup of boiling 
 
MEMORANDA 253 
 
266 CAKES AND COOKIES 
 
 \ water, then add four tablespoons of 
 orange juice and one tablespoon of lemon 
 juice; strain and cOol. Cook three- 
 fourths of a cup of sugar and a fourth 
 of a cup of water until it spins a thread, 
 then add gradually to the stiffly beaten 
 whites of two eggs and beat until 
 smooth; flavor with vanilla and when 
 the gelatine mixture commences to 
 thicken, add it gradually by the spoon- 
 ful; next add half a cup of seeded rais- 
 ins, or candied fruit cut into dice, and 
 half a cup of chopped English walnuts 
 and chill thoroughly. Shortly before 
 serving, beat a cup of rich cream until 
 stiff, add a third of a cup of sugar and 
 vanilla to flavor. Spread the gelatine 
 mixture on the cake and pile the whipped 
 cream on top. 
 
 Sour Milk Cake 
 
 Sift together one ana one-half cups of 
 flour, one teaspoon each of soda, clove, 
 cinnamon and nutmeg. Cream one cup 
 of sugar with one cup of butter, add the 
 flour and one cup of sour milk alter- 
 nately. Then one cup of raisins mixed 
 with one-half cup of flour. Beat thor- 
 oughly and bake' in a moderate oven. 
 If the batter seems too stiff remember 
 that cake without eggs requires a stiffer 
 batter. 
 
 French Wedding Cake 
 
 Work to' a waxy cream one pound of 
 powdered sugar and one pound of butter 
 well washed; break in ten eggs, two at 
 a time, and knead for twenty minutes. 
 Mix in a plate, a teaspoon of ground 
 cinnamon and of ground cloves, two 
 teaspoons of ground allspice, one nut- 
 meg, grated, and a teaspoon of ground 
 mace; add these to the creamed butter, 
 sugar and eggs, together with half a 
 gill of confectioner's molasses. Mix 
 well for one minute with the hand, then 
 add one pound of sifted flour, stirring 
 for two minutes more, then two pounds 
 of_ purrants, two pounds of Sultana 
 raisins, two pounds of Malaga raisins, 
 one pound of candied citron finely 
 sliced, one gill of Jamaica rum and one 
 gill of brandy. Mix the whole well 
 together for fifteen minutes. Butter 
 the interior of a plain fiye-quart round 
 cake mold, line with buttered paper, 
 pour in the preparation and place in a 
 very slow oven to bake for five hours. 
 
HEMORANDA 255 
 
268 OASES AND OOOKIBS 
 
 When done lay it on a table to cool off 
 for four hours preparatory to icing and 
 decorating. 
 
 Rich Spice Cake 
 
 Melt a square of baking chocolate 
 over hot water, add one-fourth cup light 
 brown sugar and one-fourth cup hot 
 water, then cook until smootE, stirring 
 constantly. Cream one-half cup butter, 
 then add successively one and a half 
 cups brown sugar, two eggs, the hot 
 chocolate mixture, two teaspoons cinna- 
 mon, one teaspoon cloves, one-half tea- 
 spoon nutmeg, one cup chopped fruit, 
 currants or raisins, one cup chopped nut 
 meats, one cup sour cream in which is 
 dissolved a half teaspoon soda, and 
 three cups of flour sifted with a tea- 
 spoon of baking powder. Bake in layers 
 and spread with a cream icing,' or bake 
 in gem pans and sprinkle before baking 
 with chopped nut meats and granidated 
 sugar. 
 
 Coifee Cake 
 
 Sift one teaspoon each of salt, cinna- 
 man and cloves with one and one-half 
 cups of flour. Clean one cup of raisins 
 and stir into one-half cup of flour. 
 Cream one cup of sugar with one-half 
 cup of butter, add one-half cup of mo- 
 lasses, beat well; then add alternately 
 flour and one cup of cold coffee in which 
 one teaspoon of soda has been dissolved. 
 Lastly add the floured raisins and beat 
 thoroughly before turning into the cake 
 pans. 
 
 Date Cake 
 
 Cream half a cup of butter with three- 
 fourths cup of sugar; add one beaten 
 egg and a cup of sour cream in which 
 has been dissolved one level teaspoon of 
 baking soda. Flavor with nutmeg. Add 
 just enough flour to make a dough that 
 will roll out into a thin sheet. Divide 
 it in two parts; over one-half spread a 
 layer of &iely chopped dates, lay the 
 other sheet of paste on top, press lightly 
 together, and cut into round or square 
 cakes. Bake in a hot oven. 
 
 Old-Fashioned Hickory Nut Cake 
 
 Of all the nut cakes there is nona 
 better than this old-fashioned one. 
 Cream together one and one-half cups 
 of fine granulated or pulverized sugar 
 and one-half cup of butter. Add three- 
 
MEMORANDA 257 
 
268 OASEB AND OOOKIBB 
 
 When done lay it on a table to cool off 
 for four hours preparatory to icing and 
 decorating. 
 
 Rich Spice Cake 
 
 Melt a square of baking chocolate 
 over hot water, add one-fourth cup light 
 brown sugar and one-fourth cup hot 
 water, then cook until smooffi, stirring 
 constantly. Cream one-half cup butter, 
 then add successively one and a half 
 cups brown sugar, two eggs, the hot 
 chocolate mixture, two teaspoons cinna- 
 mon, one teaspoon cloves, one-half tea- 
 spoon nutmeg, one cup chopped fruit, 
 currants or raisins, one cup chopped nut 
 meats, one cup sour cream in which is 
 dissolved a half teaspoon soda, and 
 three cups of flour sifted with a tea- 
 spoon of baking powder. Bake in layers 
 and spread with a cream icing,' or bake 
 in gem pans and sprinkle before baking 
 with chopped nut meats and granulated 
 sugar. 
 
 Coffee Cake 
 
 Sift one teaspoon each of salt, cinna- 
 man and cloves with one and one-haK 
 cups of flour. Clean one cup of raisins 
 and stir into one-half cup of flour. 
 Cream one cup of sugar with one-half 
 cup of butter, add one-half cup of mo- 
 lasses, beat well; then add alternately 
 flour and one cup of cold coffee in which 
 one teaspoon of soda has been dissolved. 
 Lastly add the floured raisins and beat 
 thoroughly before turning into the cake 
 pans. 
 
 Date Cake 
 
 Cream haH a cup of butter with three- 
 fourths cup of sugar; add one beaten 
 egg and a cup of sour cream in which 
 has been dissolved one level teaspoon of 
 baking soda. Flavor with nutmeg. Add 
 just enough flour to make a dough that 
 will roll out into a thin sheet. Divide 
 it in two parts; over one-half spread a 
 layer of finely chopped dates, lay the 
 other sheet of paste on top, press lightly 
 together, and cut into round or square 
 cakes. Bake in a hot oven. 
 
 Old-Fashioned Hickory Nut Cake 
 
 Of all the nut cakes there is nona 
 better than this old-fashioned one. 
 Cream together one and one-half cups 
 of fine granulated or pulverized sugar 
 and one-half cup of butter. Add three- 
 
UEKORANDA 259 
 
260 CAKES AND COOKIES 
 
 fourths of a cup of sweet milk, two and 
 one-half cups of flour sifted with two 
 teaspoons of baking powder and one aup 
 of hickory nut meats dredged lightly 
 with flour. Lastly add one-half tea- 
 spoon of vanilla and fold in the whites 
 of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth. 
 
 English Walnut Cake, Orange Dressing 
 
 Cream a fourth of a cup of butter, 
 then add in order, beating thoroughly 
 between each addition, half a pound of 
 sifted powdered sugar, six yolks of 
 eggs, two level tablespoons of cocoa, one 
 level teaspoon cinnamon, a fourth of a 
 level teaspoon of cloves, an eighth of a 
 level teaspoon of nutmeg, half a pound 
 of English walnuts, finely chopped, a 
 level cup of soft bread crumbs mixed 
 with two teaspoons of baking powder and 
 six whites of eggs beaten until stiff. and 
 dry. Bake in two layers and put together 
 with the following 
 
 Orange Dressing 
 
 Shell half a pound of English walnuts, 
 reserve enough unbroken halves for gar- 
 nishing the cake and chop fine the re- 
 mainder. To the juice and pulp of an 
 orange, add a fourth of a pound of 
 powdered sugar and the chopped nut 
 meats; cook three minutes, stir until 
 it thickens, then spread. 
 
 Raised Cake 
 
 Cream together one large cup of sugar 
 and one-half a cup of butter. Add one 
 beaten egg and mix well. Add one full 
 pint of light bread dough and one level 
 teaspoon of baking powder and beat hard 
 with the hand until soft and white. 
 Sprinkle in a little grated nutmeg, and 
 one-half wineglass of sherry or whiskey. 
 Flour one cup of mixed stoned raisins 
 and sliced citron and stir in lightly. 
 Place a round of buttered paper in a 
 deep, round cake pan, pour in the cake 
 mixture and bake for one hour o? more 
 in a slow oven. This cake is better a day 
 or two after making. If uncut it will 
 keep for some time. 
 
 Chocolate Crullers 
 
 Two eggs beaten till creamy; then beat 
 in one cup of sugar, and add for shorten- 
 ing one tablespoon of soft butter, a square 
 of grated chocolate and a level tablespoon 
 of cinnamon. Mix well, then add two- 
 thirds of a cup of sweet milk, three cups 
 
- MEMORANDA ^6i 
 
■i62 CAKES AND COOKIES 
 
 of flour sifted with two level teaspoons 
 of btkinj powder. Eoll out one-fourth 
 of an inch thick, cut with a doughnut 
 cutter and cook in a kettls of smoking 
 hot fat. Drop on crumpled unglazed 
 paper. While still hot roU in powdered 
 sugar. 
 
 Tia Cakes 
 
 Tear an angel cake in small irregular 
 shaped pieces and dip each piece in white 
 frosting, then roU in freshly grated co- 
 coanut. 
 
 Shaker Raised Doughnuts 
 
 Boil three medium-sized potatoes and 
 mash. While hot add two cups of sifted 
 flour, enough of the boiling potato water 
 to make a batter, and salt to taste. When 
 cool add two tablespoons of homemade 
 yeast and flour enough to knead. Let 
 this rise over night. Boll out and cut 
 into pieces three inches long, two inches 
 wide and one-half inch thick. Let these 
 rise ten minutes before frying in deep 
 beef fat. If made properly they shotdd 
 have large holes in them when broken. 
 Serve with maple syrup. 
 
 Strawberry Puffs 
 
 Put a cup of water and haH a cup of 
 butter into a - saucepan over the fire ; 
 when boiling add a cup of flour and stir 
 until the mixture separates from the 
 sides of the pan. Turn into a mixing 
 bowl, add three large eggs one at a time 
 and beat well. Drop from the end of a 
 tablespoon on buttered pans and bake in 
 a moderate oven until light to the touch. 
 Spread the top of the cakes with con- 
 fectioner's sugar mixed with orange 
 juice until of a consistency to spread, 
 and sprinkle with chopped nuts. Split 
 on one side and fill just before serving 
 with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored 
 with yauilla and mixed with crushed 
 strawberries. Serve strawberries dusted 
 with powdered sugar on the same plate. 
 
 Datt Fuff* 
 
 Make the cake mixture ai for cream 
 pufli, and whan baked and cool, split 
 and fill with a mixture of ehoppad 
 dates and whipped cream beaten to- 
 gether until thick and light. 
 
HEUOKANDA 2S9 
 
Sandwiches and Canapes 
 
 Fairy 8andwiche» 
 
 Cut an equal number of thin slices 
 of brown and white bread, and butter 
 them with the following mixture : Beat 
 three ounces of fresh butter to a cream 
 with four ounces of powdered sugar, 
 beating it well together for some little 
 time ; then beat in a tablespoon of lemon 
 juice. Set it on ice for an hour. After 
 haying spread this mixture on the bread, 
 sprinkle thinly with blanched and 
 chopped nuts of any kind. Press the 
 white slices to the brown, and stamp out 
 in circles or triangles. 
 
 Olive Sandwiches 
 
 Stone and mince olives, seasoning 
 them with white pepper; then pound 
 them to a smooth paste. Cut some thin 
 slices of bread and butter, and spread 
 half with the pounded olives and the 
 other half rather thickly with finely 
 chopped tongue. Press the two halves 
 together lightly. 
 
 Egg Sandwiches 
 
 Take six hard-cooked eggs, six washed 
 and boned anchovies, a teaspoon of 
 Prench mustard and a tablespoon each 
 of oil and cream; pound this all to a 
 smooth paste, seasoning it with salt and 
 cayenne to taste. Spread this mixture 
 thickly on thin slices of buttered bread. 
 
 Pepper Sandwiches 
 
 Chop finely green bell peppers, mix 
 with a few chopped olives and mayon- 
 naise to make a paste. Spread between 
 slices of bread cut very thin. 
 
 Date Sandwiches 
 
 Mij equal amounts of date pulp and 
 finely chopped English walnut meats. 
 Moisten slightly with a little sweet 
 cream or soft butter, spread the mixture 
 smoothly on thinly sliced whole wheat 
 bread, cover with another slice, and 
 press lightly to make them hold together. 
 Another pleasing date sandwich is made 
 by first spreading the bread, lightly but- 
 tered, with a layer of cottage cheese 
 moistened with a little cream; over this 
 place a layer of the chopped dates, and 
 
MEMORANDA 263 
 
268 SANDWICHES AND CANAPES 
 
 cover with another slice of buttered 
 bread. A richer sandwich filling may be 
 made by using with the dates chopped 
 preserved ginger instead of the cheese or 
 walnuts, and moistening with a little 
 ginger syrup. Equal quantities of 
 chopped dates and figs or raisins mixed 
 with a little white icing make another 
 pleasing variety. 
 
 Tea Sandwiches 
 
 For afternoon tea try- orange marma- 
 lade, pecan nuts and cream cheese mixed 
 thoroughly, and spread between thin 
 slices of white bread slightly buttered. 
 These should be made into long, narrow 
 sandwiches. Also, make baking powder 
 biscuit the size of half a dollar, and when 
 cold split them and spread them with a 
 mayonnaise mixed with minced celery 
 and stuffed olives. 
 
 Walnut Sandwiches 
 
 An appetizing filling for sandwiches is 
 made by mixing equal parts of grated 
 Swiss cheese and chopped English wal- 
 nut meats with sufficient softened but- 
 ter to form a paste. Season with salt 
 and cayenne as needed. 
 
 Pecan Nut Sandwiches 
 
 Eub to a smooth paste one tablespoon 
 of butter, two tablespoons of grated 
 cheese, a saltspoon each of salt, paprika, 
 dry mustard and celery salt, a little an- 
 chovy paste and a teaspoon of vinegar. 
 When very smooth add a cup of pecan 
 nuts that have been passed through the 
 meat chopper. Spread this between thin 
 slices of buttered graham breaxl. 
 
 Fried Sandwiches with Ham 
 
 Butter slices of stale crustless bread 
 and spread between them, sandwich 
 fashion, chopped ham, which has been 
 moistened with a little cream. Press 
 two slices together firmly and soak for 
 a minute in half a cup of milk to which 
 a beaten egg has been added. Dip on 
 each side, then fry in butter in a hot 
 spider, turning the sandwiches to brown 
 them well. 
 
 Tongue Sandwiches 
 
 Smoked tongue makes delicious sand- 
 wiches, if sliced very thinly and put 
 between pieces of buttered rye or white 
 bread. Mustard may be used with them, 
 if liked. 
 
MEMORANDA 267 
 
270 SANDWICHES AND CANAPES 
 
 Celery Sandwiches 
 
 Butter th» bread on the loaf, having 
 first creamed the butter. Cut off the 
 crusts, and beginning at one comer of the 
 slice, roll it tightly over two sticks of 
 crisp celery. The butter will hold it to- 
 gether. The celery should be broken into 
 thin strips about the size of the smallest 
 stalks toward the leaf end, and also cut 
 an appropriate length. 
 
 Baked Bean Sandwiches 
 
 Butter thin slices of bread from which 
 the crusts have been removed. Rub one 
 cup of cold baked beans through a strainer 
 or press them through a fine sieve. Sea- 
 son these to taste, using a bit of onion 
 juice, a teaspoon of chopped parsley, the 
 same of chopped celery, and a very Httle 
 prepared mustard. Spread this upon the 
 bread, and roll, or cut into fancy shapes. 
 
 Salmon Sandwiches 
 
 Spread four rather thick slices of bread 
 with cream cheese and salmon chopped up 
 fine, putting the cheese on both sides of 
 the salmon, to make the slices stick to- 
 gether. Pile them up, making a cube, 
 with bread top and bottom, and press to- 
 gether firmly; wrap in a damp cloth and 
 put in the cold until time to serve; then 
 trim off the crusts and slice the cubes 
 into dainty sandwiches, which look like 
 layer cake. 
 
 Flower or Fruit Butter 
 
 Wrap new, fresh butter in paraffin 
 paper. Place a thick layer of the desired 
 blooms or leaves in the bottom of a bowl, 
 put the butter on top of this, then cover 
 thickly with more leaves. Cover the 
 bowl as tightly as possible and set away 
 in a cool room for at least three hours. 
 The result will be faintly suggestive of 
 the blossoms. 
 
 Fairy Butter 
 
 Mix thoroughly three hard cooked eggs 
 with two tablespoons of sugar, beat into 
 this four tablespoons of fresh butter and 
 flavor to taste with almond paste. 
 
 Parsley Butter 
 
 Add one teaspoon of salt, a speck of 
 pepper and a tablespoon of finely minced 
 parsley, to half a cup of fresh butter. 
 Cream together and gradually beat into 
 this a tablespoon of lemon juice. 
 
MEMORANDA 269 
 
2Y2 SANDWICHES AND CANAPES 
 
 Lohsier Butter 
 
 Beat until a paste two tablespoons of 
 coral with three of lobster meat, add one- 
 fourth cup of fresh butter. Season to 
 taste with paprika, lemon juice and a 
 grating of nutmeg, and cream the whole 
 together. 
 
 Savory Butter 
 
 Add two teaspoons of vinegar, two tea- 
 spoons of anchovy paste and two of 
 French mustard with twice as much 
 Roquefort cheese to one-half cup of but- 
 ter. Beat until smooth and creamy. 
 
 Salmon Canapes 
 
 Cut slices of bread in fingers one-half 
 inch thick, fry in olive oil until light 
 brown. When cold butter and cover 
 with thin slices of smoked salmon. 
 
 Plotted Cheese 
 
 Pound one pound of cheese in a mor- 
 tar with two ounces of liquid butter, one 
 glass of sherry or brandy, cayenne pep- 
 per, mace and salt. Beat all well to- 
 gether and put into a small jar, with a 
 layer of butter on top. 
 
 Cral Appetizer- 
 Mix half a pint of sweet cream with 
 the shredded meat from six boiled crabs, 
 and when warmed through add three 
 tablespoons of butter, salt, cayenne pep- 
 per to taste and two tablespoons of 
 grated Italian cheese and the beaten 
 yolk of one egg. Heat thoroughly, and 
 place on squares of buttered toast. 
 Place them in a pan and run into the 
 oven for a few minutes, then serve each 
 on a white lettuce leaf. 
 
 Hichory Nut Canapes 
 
 Cut bread into slices one-quarter of 
 an inch thick, then with a small biscuit 
 cutter stamp into meat circles; fry them 
 in hot fat or saute in butter until they 
 are golden brown. Pound in a mortar a 
 pint of shelled hickory nut meats, moisten 
 with a little sweet cream and season with 
 salt and cayenne; when reduced to a 
 thick paste, spread on the prepared 
 bread, dust thickly with grated Parme- 
 san cheese and cook in a quick oven until 
 crisp and brown. 
 
MEMORANDA 271 
 
274 SANDWICHES AND CANAPES 
 
 Sam Canapes 
 
 Take one cup of chopped ham, two 
 tablespoons of cream, a dash of cayenne 
 and two tablespoons of grated cheese, 
 and mix thoroughly. Shape rounds of 
 white bread with a cooky cutter, fry 
 them lightly in butter, spread with the 
 ham mixture, sift grated cheese over the 
 top, brown lightly in a hot oven and gar- 
 nish each one with a stuffed olive. 
 
 Deviled Cheese 
 
 One quarter pound jar of Roquefort 
 cheese, one-half pound Philadelphia 
 cream cheese (or Neufchatel), two table- 
 spoons of tomato ketchup, one teaspoon 
 of Worcestershire sauce, one-haK tea- 
 spoon of paprika, one-half teaspoon of 
 salt, eight or ten chives chopped fine. 
 This should be thoroughly mixed and 
 put in jars, where, in a cool place, it will 
 keep indefinitely. Spread on saltines and 
 you will find it one of the best things 
 for luncheon or to "finish" a dinner that 
 you know. 
 
 A Bonne Bouche 
 
 A tonne houche is simply a taste of 
 something unusually good and especially 
 unique. This one is made of hard cooked 
 egg whites, olives, anchovies, or clams, 
 or even mussels, mixed with a mayon- 
 naise and served cold in cold patly shells, 
 very small ones. As a garnish, minced 
 parsley is mixed with the powdered yolks 
 and sprinkled on top. 
 
 Egg and Sardine Canapes 
 
 Cut six hard-cooked eggs into halves, 
 separate the whites and yolks, finely 
 chop the whites and rub the yolla 
 through a sieve. Eemove the bones 
 and skin from a dozen sardines, add half 
 the sifted yolks, mix to a paste with a 
 little oil from the can and season to 
 taste with salt, cayenne and lemon 
 juice. Cut thin slices of bread into 
 small rounds with a biscuit cutter and 
 saute in fresh butter until a delicate 
 brown on both sides. When cool, spread 
 with the sardine paste, decorate about the 
 edge with the chopped whites and in the 
 center put a little of the sifted yolks. 
 
 Oyster CocMails 
 
 Cut rounds from rye bread with a 
 cooky cutter, butter them lightly on both 
 sides, then dip them for a moment in 
 brown stock and toast them. Set closely 
 
MEMORANDA 273 
 
276 SANDWICHES AND CANAPES 
 
 together in a tin and cover with oysters, 
 three or four on each round of toast. 
 Pepper and salt, then set under the 
 flame in the gas stove till the frills of the 
 oysters begin to curl up. Serve piping 
 hot. 
 
 Maple Sugar Sandwiches 
 
 Force some maple sugar through a 
 food chopper, mix it with one-fourth its 
 quantity of chopped and delicately 
 browned nut meats, then spread between 
 thin slices of fresh buttered bread. 
 Either brown, entire wheat or white 
 bread may be used, or the lower layer of 
 bread may be of one kind of bread and 
 the upper layer of another. This is a 
 dainty sandwich for afternoon teas. 
 
MEMOIUKDA 275 
 
Fruits and Preserving 
 
 Canning 
 
 It is essential that the fruit chosen 
 should be fresh, perfectly sound, fine in 
 flavor and of uniform ripeness. Over- 
 ripe as well as underripe fruit has infe- 
 rior flavor. 
 
 Before beginning the actual work of 
 cooking the fruit, have all the needed 
 utensils close at hand in order and im- 
 maculately clean. If much fruit is to 
 be put up, it is better to do the pre- 
 paratory work, such as bringing out 
 needed kettles, examining and cleansing 
 jars, and similar matter, the day before, 
 80 ijaat early the following morning one 
 may start in at the real work while still 
 free from fatigue. 
 
 Use only utensils that are not affected 
 by the acid in the fruit, such as gran- 
 ite, aluminum, silver or earthenware. 
 Wide-mouthed self-sealing glass jars 
 with glass or porcelain-lined covers are 
 the best; tin especially should not be 
 used. Pint jars are more convenient for 
 small families. Examine aU jars to 
 make sure there are no defects, that the 
 covers fit perfectly, and that the rims are 
 not bent, else they cannot be hermeti- 
 cally sealed. Thoroughly clean and scald 
 the jars and boil the covers to sterilize 
 them. Use new rubbers each season, as 
 they always deteriorate with usage or 
 age. 
 
 All fruit should be washed only suffi- 
 ciently to thoroughly cleanse it, as too 
 much washing impairs the flavor. To 
 clean berries, currants and similar small 
 fruits, pick over and carefully stem 
 them, then put a few at a time into 
 a colander, rinse by dipping it quickly 
 several times in and out of a pan of 
 clear, cold water and drain thorotighly. 
 Change the water as often as needed. 
 Cherries should be washed, then stemmed 
 and seeded, in order to save all the juice. 
 Wash plums and seed them; or, if the 
 seeds are to be retained, prick each plum 
 in several places with a large needle 
 or a silver fork to prevent the skins 
 from bursting. Peaches, pears and sim- 
 ilar fruits should be pared with a silver 
 knife, freed as desired from stones and 
 cores, then covered with a dampened 
 napkin until the moment of cooking, to 
 
MEMORANDA 277 
 
280 FRUITS AND PKESEEVING 
 
 prevent discoloration. Sometimes, to 
 add to their natural appearance, stems 
 of pears are carefully scraped and left 
 on the fruit. 
 
 Pack the fruit as fast as it is prepared 
 directly into the jars, as closely as possi- 
 ble without mashing. Make a syrup, us- 
 ing sugar according to taste, or in the 
 proportion of two cups of sugar to one 
 cup of water. Cool it sufficiently to 
 avoid danger of breaking the jars, then 
 pour over the fruit in the jars to within 
 an inch of the top. This allows for ex- 
 pansion in cooking. Screw on the covers, 
 leaving off the rubber bands. Set the 
 jars so they cannot touch each other — it 
 is well to separate them with folds of old 
 newspaper — in a wash boiler of lukewarm 
 water, or water about the same tempera- 
 ture as the jars. If only a few jars at 
 a time are to be canned use a deep 
 saucepan. Have the water cover the 
 jars to about three-fourths of their 
 hight. Stand the jars on a perforated 
 board or on heavy folds of paper, so the 
 water can circulate under as well as 
 around them, and thus avoid the danger 
 of breakage. Cover the vessel so the 
 steam will increase the intensity of the 
 heat, heat to the boiling point and boil 
 steadily from fifteen to thirty minutes, 
 according to the firmness of the fruit. 
 Berries, cherries and plums should cook 
 about fifteen minutes, peaches and pears 
 from twenty to thirty minutes. Test by 
 piercing with a fork, taking care not 
 to cook until too soft. When done, lift 
 out the jars one at a time, and run a 
 silver knife that has been sterilized in 
 boiling water around the inside of the 
 jar to liberate the air, taking care not 
 to mash the fruit. If the fruit falls 
 some, fill again for sealing, using for 
 this purpose boiling syrup, boiling water 
 or the contents of another jar. The 
 latter is really the preferable way, one 
 jar usually sufficing to fill up three or 
 four jars. 
 
 Carefully^ dry the top of the jar, dip 
 the rubber in and out of boiling water, 
 dry and put firmly on the jar. Fill the 
 jar to overflowing with the boiling syrup, 
 then dry and screw on the cover, which 
 meanwhile has been standing in boiling 
 water. Let the rubber show an even edge 
 all around, screw the cover as tightly as 
 possible, turn the jar upside down for 
 half a minute, and if any juice escapes 
 open and seal over again immediately. 
 
KEM0BA17DA 279 
 
983 FRUITS AND FREBERVINa 
 
 Stand the jars right side up in a place 
 free from draft while cooling. As the 
 glass contracts in cooling, the covers be- 
 come loose, so it is necessary to screw 
 them repeatedly. The next morning 
 screw the covers tightly as possible for 
 the last time, invert the jars on clean 
 paper, and if there is no leakage, they 
 are ready for storing. 
 
 Strawberry Preserves 
 
 Purchase large, choice, perfect berries, 
 not over ripe. Remove lie stems care- 
 fully, then wash and weigh the fruit. 
 To wash without bruising, put about a 
 quart of berries into the colander at a 
 time, then dip quickly in and out of a 
 deep pan of clear water several times, 
 and drain thoroughly. For every pound 
 of fruit measure three-quarters of a 
 pound of sugar, then put the fruit and 
 sugar in alternate layers into a large 
 granite preserving kettle, not using over 
 six pounds of fruit at a time. If too 
 much is prepared at a time, the fruit is 
 crushed by its own weight. Stand aside 
 until the bottom of the kettle is covered 
 with juice, then cover and heat very 
 gradually to boiling. Boil gently for 
 fifteen minutes and remove all scum. 
 Do not stir unless really necessary as 
 stirring breaks the fruit. Pour the 
 cooked mixture into large platters or 
 deep soup plates to the depth of about 
 an inch and put on a table in the sunni- 
 est spot in the yard, moving the table if 
 need be, as the sun shifts position. 
 Cover securely to protect against flying 
 insects, using a double thickness of mos- 
 quito netting. To prevent the netting 
 from falling into the fruit, elevate it by 
 putting fruit jars around the ends of the 
 table, with one in the center, and tie 
 securely over all, so nothing can crawl 
 in from underneath. To guard against 
 ants place the feet of the table in water. 
 Late in the afternoon, about 5 o'clock, 
 and before the dew commences to fall, 
 bring the fruit indoors. Scrape the con- 
 tents of the several plates into one large 
 crock to obtain uniform consistency in 
 the entire mass. The following morning 
 pour into plates and proceed as before. 
 Continue this process imtil the syrup_ it 
 very thick and almost a jelly. Thres 
 days usually are needed, but the time 
 varies according to the intensity of the 
 heat. Ample time must be given to in- 
 sure perfect keeping. When done put 
 
MEMORANDA 281 
 
284 FRUITS AND PRESERVING 
 
 the contents of the several plates into 
 one dish as before, then turn without 
 other cooking into small self-sealing 
 glass jars. Pour melted paraffine over 
 the top of the fruit, adjust rubbers and 
 lids and, to guard against mold, tie 
 a piece of cotton over the top of the 
 jar. Wrap jars in dark paper, label and 
 store as other fruit in a cool, dark, dry 
 place. 
 
 Of course bright, clear, hot, sunshiny 
 days are essential for preserves of this 
 kind and unless the weatiier is propitious 
 it is folly to attempt it; but if the pre- 
 serving has been commenced and rain 
 follows before it is done, it may be kept 
 for several days and then finished. If 
 the weather remains unfavorable for a 
 long period it is safer to finish the pre- 
 serve by cooking it on the stove. Fruit 
 prepared in this way retains in an un- 
 usual degree its natural appearance and 
 flavor and if carefully prepared and 
 sealed will keep indefinitely. The 
 method seems particularly well adapted 
 for the early small fruits, the sun pos- 
 sessing greater power at the season of 
 their maturity. In the temperate cli- 
 mate the heat is not sufficiently intense 
 after the middle of July to keep the 
 fruit. 
 
 Currant Preserves 
 
 Choose the large, cherry currants, 
 wash and stem them. To a pound of 
 fruit allow a pound of sugar, and pro- 
 ceed according to directions for preserv- 
 ing strawberries. Currants are particu- 
 larly fine prepared in this way and are 
 ivHij equal in excellence to the famous 
 bar-le-duc currants, from which they can 
 scarcely be distinguished. 
 
 Fruit Tutti Frutti 
 
 Put a pint of brandy into a thoroughly 
 sweet three-gallon stone jar. Beginning 
 with strawberries, the first fruit of the 
 season, add in succession the various 
 fruits as they appear in market, taking 
 care to choose only those which are 
 choice, firm and fresh. Add a pound 
 of sugar to each pound of fruit until the 
 jar is almost half full, then use three- 
 quarters of a pound of sugar to each 
 pound of fruit. Stir the mixture thor- 
 oughly for several mornings after each 
 addition of fruit and sugar to dissolve 
 the sugar, using for this purpose a 
 wooden or graniteware spoon and tak- 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
286 FRUITS AND PRESERVING 
 
 ing care not t* mash the fruit. Cover 
 the jar securely and keep in th« cellar 
 or in a cool, dry place. Use the fol- 
 lowing proportion of fruit: Two quarts 
 strawberries, one large pineapple, one 
 quart red cherries, one quart yellow 
 cherries, one quart red raspberries, one 
 pint large currants, one quart apricots 
 and prunes, plums and peaches to fill the 
 jar. Leave the berries whole, cut the 
 pineapple into suitable pieces for eating, 
 seed the cherries, pare the apricots and 
 peaches and cut into halves or quarter*, 
 and stone the plums and leave whole. 
 
 Tegetaile Tutti Frutti 
 
 For this pickle, use tiny ears of com, 
 small cucumbers, florets of cauliflower, 
 tiny carrots, cut-up hearts of hard white 
 cabbage, snap and wax beans, small sil- 
 ver skin onions, radishes, small green to- 
 matoes, a few green peaches pulled be- 
 fore the stones have formed, small green 
 muskmelons, various kinds of peppers, 
 nasturitum seed, martynias, garlic and 
 horse-radish. These vegetables are added 
 to the jar from time to time as in the 
 fruit tutti frutti jar. The vinegar may 
 be prepared to suit one's fancy — it may 
 be plain, spiced, have turmeric or mus- 
 tard added as for yellow, or mustard 
 pickle, or this recipe for vinegar for 
 Indian pickle followed: To a gallon of 
 vinegar add two and one-half ounces of 
 salt, one-half pound of flour of mustard, 
 two ounces of turmeric, three ounces of 
 sliced white ginger, one ounce of cloves, 
 one-half an ounce of mace, black and 
 white pepper each, one-fourth of an ounce 
 of cayenne, four ounces of peeled escha- 
 lots and one ounce of garlic. Put the 
 vinegar on the fire to heat; when it 
 reaches the boiling point add the mus- 
 tard and turmeric mixed smooth with a 
 little cold vinegar, and stir until it is 
 well blended with the vinegar, then take 
 from the fire and add the other ingre- 
 dients. When cold, pour in a stone jar 
 and put in such vegetables as may be 
 ready. Then tie the jar very closely. 
 Open and put in other vegetables from 
 time to time as they come in season. All 
 of them are so small that they do not 
 need to be soaked in brine; just wash 
 well in water, dry, and put in the jar of 
 vinegar. 
 
MEMORANDA 
 
286 FRUITS AND PRESERVING 
 
 ins pare not t« mash the fruit. Cover 
 the jar securely and keep in th« cellar 
 or in a cool, dry place. Use the fol- 
 lowing proportion of fruit: Two quarts 
 strawberries, one large pineapple, one 
 quart red cherries, one quart yellow 
 cherries, one quart red raspberries, one 
 pint large currants, one quart apricots 
 and prunes, plums and peaches to fill the 
 jar. Leave the berries whole, cut the 
 pineapple into suitable pieces for eating, 
 seed the cherries, pare the apricots and 
 peaches and cut into halves or quarter*, 
 and stone the plums and leave whole. 
 
 Vegetable Tutti Frutti 
 
 For this pickle, use tiny ears of com, 
 small cucumbers, florets of cauliflower, 
 tiny carrots, eut-up hearts of hard white 
 cabbage, snap and wax beans, small sil- 
 ver skin onions, radishes, small green to- 
 matoes, a few green peaches pulled be- 
 fore the stones have formed, small green 
 muskmelons, various kinds of peppers, 
 nasturittmi seed, martynias, garlic and 
 horse-radish. These vegetables are added 
 to the jar from time to time as in the 
 fruit tutti frutti jar. The vinegar may 
 be prepared to suit one's fancy — it may 
 be plain, spiced, have turmeric or mus- 
 tard added as for yellow, or mustard 
 pickle, or this recipe for vinegar for 
 Indian pickle followed: To a gallon of 
 vinegar add two and one-half ounces of 
 salt, one-half' poimd of flour of mustard, 
 two oimces of turmeric, three ounces of 
 sliced white ginger, one ounce of cloves, 
 one-half an ounce of mace, black and 
 white pepper each, one-fourth of an ounce 
 of cayenne, four ounces of peeled escha- 
 lots and one ounce of garlic. Put the 
 vinegar on the fire to heat; when it 
 reaches the boiling point add the mus- 
 tard and turmeric mixed smooth with a 
 little cold vinegar, and stir until it is 
 well blended with the vinegar, then take 
 from the fire and add the other ingre- 
 dients. When cold, pour in a itone jar 
 and put in such vegetables as may be 
 ready. Then tie the jar very closely. 
 Open and put in other vegetables from 
 time to time as they come in season. All 
 of them are so small that they do not 
 need to be soaked in brine; just wash 
 well in water, dry, and put in the jar of 
 vinegar. 
 
SnUOKiKBA 21? 
 
288 FRUITS AKD PBESERVma 
 
 Sweet Pickled Peaches 
 
 Pare choice, firm peaches of fine 
 flavor. Many prefer clingstones for this 
 purpose, but as they need more manipu- 
 lation at the table, freestones are recom- 
 mended. If the former are used leave 
 whole ; the latter should be cut in halves, 
 stoned, and the kernels of at least a third 
 added to the peaches. Weigh the pre- 
 pared fruit and put it into a deep stone 
 crock. To seven pounds of fruit allow 
 four pounds of light brown sugar, a 
 pint of pure cider vinegar of medium 
 strength, an ounce of stick cinnamon, 
 two tablespoons of whole allspice and 
 two teaspoons of whole cloves. Tie the 
 spices in a cheesecloth, boil with the 
 sugar and vinegar for five minutes, skim 
 well and pour boiling hot over the fruit. 
 Cover securely and stand in a cool place 
 over night. The next morning drain off 
 the syrup, boil for ten minutes with the 
 spice bag, skim and again pour boiling 
 hot over the fruit. Continue this process 
 for three successive mornings. The last 
 morning add the fruit to the syrup and 
 spices and boil gently imtil pierced easily 
 with a fork, then skim out and put into 
 the crock. Continue to boil the syrup 
 until it is as thick as molasses. If, after 
 the second boiling, it does not seem spiced 
 sufficiently, add more spices tied in a 
 fresh bag. When the syrup is done, re- 
 heat the peaches in it. then fill into self- 
 sealing glass jars as in canning. Al- 
 though pickled fruit will keep in the 
 crock if securely tied, it is decidedly 
 preferable to seal it in jars. 
 
 Cherries^ Plums and German Prunes 
 
 These are delicious when sweet pic- 
 kled. Pit cherries. Plums are usually 
 stoned; the very large ones are some- 
 times left whole. If left whole, prick 
 with a silver fork to prevent the skins 
 from bursting. Proceed exactly as in 
 making peach sweet pickles. 
 
 Spiced Currants 
 
 Six pounds of currants, one level table- 
 spoon of cinnamon, four pounds of sugar, 
 one level teaspoon of cloves, two pounds 
 of raisins, one level teaspoon of allspice, 
 one cup of vinegar. Pick over the cur- 
 rants, wash, drain and remove the stems. 
 Put into a preserving kettle, add the 
 sugar, raisins and vinegar and cook until 
 it commences to thicken; add the spices 
 
MEUORANDA 
 
290 FKUITS AND PRKSEEVING 
 
 and cook to a thick sauce. This is partic- 
 ularly fine with lamb and venison. 
 
 Apple Jam 
 
 None of the soft non-keeping apples 
 are suitable for preserving; sound, tart 
 baking apples are the proper ones to use. 
 Pare the apples, cut diem in quar- 
 ters, core carefully and slice rather 
 thick; to every pound allow one pound 
 of good brown sugar, and to every five 
 pounds of apples allow the thinly cut 
 rinds and juice of four lemons, and, 
 according to taste, either a quarter or 
 half a pound of young whole ginger, and 
 one ounce of cloves. Let aU lie together 
 in a bowl till next day, when they should 
 be boiled until perfectly clear and until 
 the apples are a rich amber color. Wind- 
 falls, when carefully prepared by cutting 
 away all injured portions, make good 
 jam after the above recipe. 
 
 Blachberry Jam 
 
 Gather the fruit in dry weather, allow 
 haK a pound of good brown sugar to 
 every pound of fruit; boil the whole 
 together gently for an hour, or till the 
 blackberries are soft, stirring and mash- 
 ing them well. Put in small jars and 
 tie down. This is particularly good for 
 children. 
 
 Gooseberry Marmalade 
 
 Use three-fourths of a pound of sugar 
 to a pound of fruit. Put the sugar and 
 fruit in layers in a preserving kettle. 
 Heat very slowly, and crush the fruit a 
 little as it heats to extract the juice. 
 Simmer very gently until it is a thick 
 mass. It must be stirred frequently, and 
 cooked until the skins are perfectly 
 tender. Seal in tumblers like jelly. 
 
MEMOKANDA 291 
 
Candies 
 
 Fondant 
 
 Boil two and one-fialf pounds of sugar 
 and one-half teaspoon of cream of tar- 
 tar with one and one-half cups of water 
 until 242 F is registered on the candy 
 thermometer. A less delicate test is that 
 of the soft ball when tried in cold water. 
 
 Cook in a kettle with a small surface 
 and do not attempt to cook the syrup on 
 a damp day. Wrap a clean piece of 
 cheesecloth around a wooden spoon, dip 
 in hot water and wash down the sides 
 of the candy kettle. This prevents crys- 
 tallizing and should be done often. 
 When cooked, pour gently into a large 
 oiled platter. Hold back the last quar- 
 ter cup as it is apt to crystallize the 
 whole. Cool without disturbing until 
 only lukewarm, then beat with two silver 
 knives until creamy. Pour into a stone 
 jar, cover with waxed paper and a damp 
 cloth and let it ripen forty-eight hours 
 before using. Fondant properly cared 
 for will keep indefinitely. 
 
 Soft Ginger Chocolate Creams 
 
 Form fondant into tiny cones, tuck> 
 ing into each cone a bit of preserved 
 ginger, well dried before using. Dip 
 the balls into melted chocolate, one at 
 a time, and lay on parafiSne paper in a 
 cold place until hardened. 
 
 Buttercups 
 
 Boil one cup of water, two cups of 
 granulated sugar and a teaspoon of 
 lemon juice until it cracks in cold 
 water. Color a pale yellow with vege- 
 table coloring and pour on an oiled 
 platter to cool. Mold a cup of fondant 
 until creamy. EoU out a portion of the 
 yellow can(^, making of it a long and 
 narrow strip about an inch and a half 
 wide. On tiiis lay a roll of the fondant 
 as long as the candy and about half 
 an inch in diameter. Wrap the candy 
 around it, stretch all with the hands 
 until quite small and cut in half-inch 
 length. Any preferred flavorings can 
 be used. A particularly pleasing com- 
 bination is formed by flavoring the 
 candy with orange extract and the fond- 
 ant with banana. 
 
MEMORANDA 293 
 
294: CASDIES 
 
 Plum Pudding Bonbons 
 
 Into two cups of fondant slightly 
 wanned mix, also slightly warmed and 
 thoroughly dry, one tablespoon each of 
 chopx>ed citron, chopped candied orange 
 peel and seeded chopped raisins, two 
 tablespoons of currants dredged with 
 half a teaspoon of ground cinnamon and 
 the grated rind of a lemon, and three 
 tablespoons of chopped nut meats; use 
 the hands rather than a spoon. Form 
 into small balls, dip in unsweetened 
 chocolate melted over hot water, and 
 place on an oiled platter to harden. 
 
 Opera Creams 
 
 Melt together slowly three-fourths 
 cup of milk, two cups of sugar and two 
 squares of chocolate; then boU for three 
 or four minutes, flavor and put in a 
 cold place. The pan should not be 
 touched for at least an hour or until it 
 is absolutely cold. Then beat until it 
 becomes resistant and creamy. Drop 
 into round balls on paper. 
 
 Maple and Butternut Cream 
 
 Break into small pieces two pounds 
 of "honest" maple sugar and heat in a 
 porcelain or enameled saucepan with 
 one pint of cream. Boil over a moder- 
 ate fire to the soft ball stage. Remove 
 from the fire, add one cup of chopped 
 butternut meats and stir slowly until 
 the mixture cools and begins to tiiicken, 
 then pour into shallow buttered pans, 
 score in squares and place a butternut 
 meat on each square. 
 
 Maple Candy 
 
 Boil together for five minutes one cup 
 of maple syrup and one cup of sugar; 
 add one-quarter of a tea§poon of cream 
 of tartar, two teaspoons of butter and 
 two teaspoons of vinegar. After it has 
 boiled until it is brittle when tried in 
 cold water, pour it into buttered pans to 
 cool. When cool enough to handle, pull 
 it until it becomes hard, then out it in 
 pieces and allow it to stand two or three 
 days to become "ripened." 
 
 Mexican Caramels 
 
 Put a cup of granulated sugar into 
 a clean iron skillet and stir constantly 
 over a slow fire until the sugar is 
 melted, taking care it does not brown. 
 As soon as the sugar becomes a syrup 
 add a cup of rich milk or cream, and 
 
MEMORANDA 293 
 
296 CANDIES 
 
 stir constantly until the sugar is all 
 dissolved. Add next a cup each of 
 granulated and of light brown sugar and 
 boil steadily until the mixture forms a 
 soft ball when tested in cold water. 
 Take from the fire, add a cup of 
 coarsely chopped nut meats and stir to a 
 creamy consistency. Pour into a shal- 
 low pan lined with paraffiae paper, 
 spread smoothly about half an inch in 
 thickness and mark into squares while 
 still warm. These caramels are per- 
 fectly delicious, being both waxy and 
 creamy. Any single kind or a mixture 
 of several kinds of nut meats may be 
 used. If there is any fondant at hand, 
 pleasing variety is produced by filling 
 the molds with a thin layer of the 
 caramel and covering with a layer of 
 melted fondant. 
 
 Coffee Nut Caramels 
 
 Place in a granite saucepan one cup 
 of confectioner's sugar, half a cup of 
 cream and a quarter of a cup of very 
 strong coffee; stir constantly over a hot 
 fire, until it reaches the hard ball stage, 
 remove from the fire and stir in a cup 
 of hickory meats. Turn out on an oiled 
 slab or into a pan, having the paste half 
 an inch thick, and mark into squares 
 while warm. 
 
 Marshmallev) Fudge 
 
 Cook a cup of cream and two cups 
 of powdered sugar (pulverized), stirring 
 gently to avoid scorching, until the mix- 
 ture begins to boil. Now add one-quar- 
 ter pound of chocolate, stirring, as 
 needed, until all is melted. The mix- 
 ture should boil for perhaps ten minutes, 
 a drop being tried in cold water until 
 soft ball stage is reached. Add an inch 
 and a half cube of butter, and stir until 
 well mixed. Take the fudge from the 
 flame, and beat briskly for five or ten 
 minutes, then pour it in a buttered 
 fudge pan containing a half pound of 
 cut-up marshmallows and a quarter 
 pound of chopped pecan meats scattered 
 through. 
 
 Chocolate Arabics 
 
 Purchase the desired number of gum 
 drops — either the jelly sort or "jaw- 
 breakers" — and give them a coat of 
 chocolate. To every ounce of unsweet- 
 ened chocolate, melted, add two table-, 
 spoons of milk, one or two tablespoons 
 
HEHORAKDA 297 
 
298 CANDIES 
 
 of sugar and the least bit of butter. 
 Stir over the fire till smooth and, while 
 it is -warm, dip the drop into it with a 
 fork or candy wire and place on a 
 piece of marble. If the chocolate be- 
 comes too stiff, thin cautiously with 
 sugar syrup. The covering entirely 
 changes the character of the gum drops, 
 greatly improving their flavor. 
 
 Peanut Brittle 
 
 Shell, skin and chop fine one quart of 
 peanuts or enough to make one cup of 
 nut meats. Place one cup of sugar in a 
 saucepan without water and heat grad- 
 ually, stirring all the time, until the 
 sugar is completely melted. Mix the 
 peanuts in thoroughly, pour out on an 
 inverted tin, unbuttered, then shape into 
 a square with two broad knives. When 
 the candy b^ins to hold its shape, mark 
 it in small squares and continue to 
 shape it and re-mark it until it hardens. 
 
 Butter Scotch 
 
 Two cups of light brown sugar, one 
 cup of butter, one tablespoon of vinegar 
 and one of water. Mix all together 
 and boil twenty minutes. Add one- 
 eighth of a tablespoon of baking soda, 
 and as soon as it will crisp in cold 
 water remove from the fire. When done 
 pour out on a flat buttered tin and 
 mark off in squares. 
 
 Glace Walnuts 
 
 Boil a cup of sugar, a few grains of 
 cream of tartar and haK a cup of boiling 
 water over a hot fire. Do not stir after 
 the boiling has begun. Remove from 
 the fire as soon as there is a suspicion 
 of a faint yellow tinge to the syrup, dip 
 the halved nuts separately into the 
 syrup, then drop onto oiled paper. 
 Stand the syrup in a pan of hot water 
 to keep hot during dipping. 
 
MEMOBANDA 
 
 299 
 
Chaf ing-Dish Redpcs 
 
 Lobster Newburg 
 
 This is the true Newburg as brought 
 from Lorraine by a particularly capable 
 chef. The materials are the meat from 
 one lobster, cut into dice, the yolks of 
 three eggs, one cup of cream, a wine- 
 glass of sherry, a tablespoon of butter, 
 a shake of cayenne pepper and a pinch 
 of salt. Saute the lobster in butter, add- 
 ing the sherry wine and using for this 
 process the blazer. Beat the yolks of the 
 eggs with the cup of cream, and add to 
 the sauted lobster. Allow this to heat 
 until it just begins to thicken, then 
 take it oflf and serve. Never use flour 
 or cornstarch for thickening. 
 
 Sweetbreads Newburg 
 
 Parboil, cool and cut into cubes suffi- 
 cient sweetbread to make one and a half 
 cups. Have ready also haK a cup of 
 mushrooms, cooked and quartered. Heat 
 a cup of cream in the blazer over hot 
 water. Add the sweetbread and mush- 
 rooms. Beat the yolks of three eggs, add 
 a quarter of a teaspoon of salt, a few 
 grains of cayenne and half a cup of 
 sherry wine. Stir this gradually into 
 the cream mi^ure and continue stirring 
 until slightly thickened, then serve at 
 once on toast or puff paste points. 
 
 Turkey Newburg 
 
 Melt one tablespoon of butter in a 
 double boiler or chafing-dish, add one 
 cup of cold turkey breast cut into dice, 
 one cup of canned lobster cut into small 
 pieces, one teaspoon of salt and a lib- 
 eral seasoning of cayenne. Cook several 
 minutes and flavor with three-quarters 
 of a cup of sherry or marsala if liked; 
 cook three minutes longer, then add 
 three egg yolks and a cup of cream 
 beaten together. Stir until the egg ip 
 set and serve at once or the mixture 
 will curdle. 
 
 Asparagus Newburg 
 
 Heat in the chafing-dish with a table- 
 spoon of melted butter, a. cup of par- 
 boiled asparagus tips, adding a saltspoon 
 of salt and a pinch of black pepper; then 
 pour in a wineglass of Madeira, if liked. 
 
MEMORANDA 301 
 
dUSS CHAFINO-DISH RECIPES 
 
 and cook over the hot water pan for 
 about three minutes; meanwhile beat 
 until light the yolks of three eggs, to 
 which add half a pint of double cream, 
 and very gradually add this to the 
 asparagus, stirring constantly; cook 
 only for a moment or two or until the 
 Newburg is well thickened and serve on 
 triangles of toasted wheat bread. 
 
 Creamed Chicken with Fresh Mush- 
 rooms 
 
 Take a small fowl, clean and cook 
 till tender. When cold, cut the breast 
 in small dice, and season with salt and 
 pepper. Now take two tablespoons of 
 good butter, one tablespoon of floxir, 
 moisten with one cup of hot cream and 
 beat over the fire till smooth. To this, 
 add chicken with one quart of fresh 
 mushrooms, cut in dice; let all simmer 
 twenty minutes. Serve on strips of 
 toast; garnish with green parsley. 
 
 Creamed Kidneys 
 
 One tablespoon- of butter is sauted 
 with two of flour, then one cup of milk 
 is added with salt and pepper. After 
 this, some veal kidneys that have been 
 carefully prepared and chopped fine are 
 put in — ^about six small ones. Then one 
 teaspoon each of finely minced parsley 
 and the ubiquitous red pepper and a cup 
 of cream in which there is one beaten 
 egg yolk. When boiling it is served in 
 tiny dishes. The kidneys are prepared 
 by first soaking them in salt and water, 
 then drain and cover with boiling water. 
 Cook just five minutes — ^more boiling 
 would make them tough. 
 
 Creamed Terrapin 
 
 Mix in the blazer two tablespoons of 
 butter and one of flour and gradually 
 stir in one pint of cream, a teaspoon of 
 salt, a saltspoon of white pepper, the 
 same of grated nutmeg, a pinch of 
 cayenne pepper and a pint of terrapin 
 meat, stirring all until scalding hot. 
 Place over the hot water pan where the 
 contents will keep hot but will not boil. 
 Then stir in four well-beaten eggs, but 
 do not allow the terrapin to boil after 
 adding the eggs. Just before serving 
 put in a gill of good sherry wine, if 
 liked, and a tablespoon of lemon juice. 
 
UEMOBANDA 
 
304 CHAFING-DISH EEOIPKS 
 
 Green Sea Turtle in Chafing-Dish 
 
 Take one two-pound can of turtle 
 meat, cut in small pieces, braise in two 
 ounces of butter with a little onion. 
 Add one-half pint of cream and two 
 hard-cooked eggs cut rather fine. 
 Thicken with a little flour mixed first 
 with cold milk. Salt and paprika to 
 taste, a glass of Madeira, if desired, and 
 serve from chafing-dish on squares of 
 toast with sliced lemon. 
 
 Mock Terrapin in the Chafing-Dish 
 
 Take the dark meat of a chicken cooked 
 the day previous and half a pound of 
 calfs liver; put together in the chafing- 
 dish-, add two cloves of garlic, one small 
 onion sliced, two stalks of celery; cover 
 with boiling water and cook twenty 
 minvtes. Take out and cut into dice. 
 Cleanse the chafing-dish and put in a 
 quarter of a poimd of butter; while the 
 butter is melting, take the yo&s of two 
 hard-cooked eggs, mash to a smooth 
 paste, adding gradually a cup of cream. 
 Add a tablespoon of flour to the butter, 
 mix and add the cream and eggs, stir 
 constantly until it reaches the boiling 
 point, then add meat, a teaspoon of salt, 
 a daeh of cayenne and just a suspicion 
 of mace. Serve hot on rounds of but- 
 tered toast. 
 
 Crabs a la Creole 
 
 Cut three slices of bacon in small 
 pieces, put them in the hot dish, add two 
 cups of crab meat cut into dice, then one 
 green i)epper denuded of its interior and 
 chopped fine, one cup of tomatoes, pulp 
 and juice, and when boiling add one cup 
 of fresh mushrooms (the canned ones 
 are a makeshift), cut into small pieces, 
 cook for a few moments, then serve in 
 tiny nappies or stewpans. The latter 
 are the most popular. 
 
 Algonquin Oyster Stew (For four per- 
 sons) 
 
 Take four stalks of celery, cut fine 
 with a silver knife to prevent it from 
 discoloring. Take a piece of butter 
 about the size of an egg, brown it well 
 in the chafing-dish blazer, add the celery, 
 cook it until thoroughly done, which will 
 be in about ten minutes. Add one quart 
 of bulk oysters with the liquor. Cook 
 until the oysters curl. Cook for ten 
 
UEMOBAITDA 306 
 
306 CHAFINQ-DISH BECIPES 
 
 minutes longer, season with salt and 
 paprika and serve with hot browned 
 oyster crackers. 
 
 Delmonico Stew 
 
 Cook four slices of bacon slowly, 
 removing the fat as fast as possible. 
 When the bacon is done and dry, dry 
 it more by keeping it warm on a piece 
 of brown wrapping paper. Put back 
 into the blazer a little of the fat and 
 add two cups of the meat of frogs' legs 
 scraped from the bones, and add one 
 cup of oyster crabs. Cook until tender, 
 then add the bacon cut in small pieces 
 and serve. For those who can afford 
 oyster crabs and are not too squeamish 
 to eat them, this dish is most acceptable. 
 
 Lamb Piquant 
 
 Cut cold lamb or mutton into 
 small thin slices. Prepare the sauce in 
 the blazer, beginning with two table- 
 spoons of butter, then two of tomato 
 catsup, three of currant jelly and one 
 of tarragon vinegar. Add a sprinkling 
 of salt and when hot one tablespoon of 
 sweet red pepper minced fine. When this 
 is boiling put in the meat and serve. 
 
 Finnan Haddie 
 
 This old friend has come to the front 
 again dressed in cream sauce, with trim- 
 mings of red pepper. It is exceedingly 
 palatable if carefully prepared before- 
 hand. This means that it must be 
 soaked half an hour in cold water, skin 
 side up, then drained and covered with 
 hot milk. After resting five minutes in 
 this bath it should be drained and every 
 bit of skin and bone removed. The 
 fiakes should then be cooked in butter 
 for a moment before the cream sauce is 
 added. Add half a teaspoon of Wies- 
 baden sauce and one tablespoon of 
 minced red pepper. 
 
 Scotch Woodcock 
 
 Shell and chop the whites of six hard 
 cooked eggs very fine. Eub the yolks to 
 a smooth paste with two tablespoons of 
 melted butter, one-quarter teaspoon of 
 salt, a dusting of paprika, half a teaspoon 
 anchovy essence, or paste may be used, 
 and a teaspoon of cornstarch. Add a 
 cup and a quarter of rich milk and cook 
 in a double boiler to a thick cream. 
 Have ready a number of slices of thin 
 crisp buttered toast ; spread a layer of the 
 
KBICORANDA 307 
 
308 CHAFINQ-DISH .BEdPES 
 
 yolk cream over each, sprinkle with the 
 chopped whites which have been kept 
 warm over hot water, pile on a hot 
 platter, pour over the remainder of the 
 sauce and serve at once. 
 
 India Curried Onion 
 
 Fry sliced onions in butter or good 
 fat; salt well and add one teaspoon of 
 curry, two raw eggs and a few drops of 
 lemon juice. Serve hot. 
 
 Dream Cakes 
 
 Put slices of American cheese between 
 very thin slices of white bread and fry 
 in butter, red pepper and salt. The 
 pepper should of course be used accord- 
 ing to taste, but they are supposed to be 
 better when well seasoned. The bread 
 should be thin enou^ to let the cheese 
 melt throu^. 
 
MBHOBANDA 309 
 
Cookery for the Sick 
 
 Thickened Milk 
 
 Scald one cup of milk, reserving two' 
 tablespoons. Add cold milk, gradually, to 
 one tablespoon of flour while stirring con- 
 stantly to make a smooth paste. Pour into 
 the scalded milk and stir until the mix- 
 ture thickens, then cover, and cook over 
 hot water twenty minutes. Season with 
 salt. An inch piece of stick cinnamon 
 may be cooked with the milk if liked, 
 and tends to reduce a laxative condition. 
 Thickened milk is often given in bowel 
 troubles. 
 
 Oatmeal Gruel 
 
 Add one-fourth cup of rolled oats, 
 tablespoon flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, 
 to one and one-half cups boiHng water, 
 let boil two minutes, then cook over hot 
 water one hour. Strain, bring to boiling 
 point, and add milk or cream if indicated. 
 
 Flour Gruel 
 
 Mix two teaspoons of flour and one salt- 
 spoon of salt and make into a smooth, 
 thin paste with a little cold water, then 
 stir it into one cup of boiling water. 
 Cook until the desired consistency is ob- 
 tained. Strain; ttien add sugar, if pre- 
 ferred, and thin #ith a little milk. 
 
 Indian Meal Gruel 
 
 One tablespoon Indian meal, one-half 
 tablespoon flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, 
 two tablespoons cold water, one and one- 
 half cups boiling water, milk or cream. 
 Blend tiie meal, flour and salt with the 
 cold water to make a smooth paste and 
 stir into the boiling water. Boil on back 
 of stove one hour and a half. Dilute 
 with milk or cream. Strain. 
 
 Cracker Gruel 
 
 One tablespoon rolled and sifted 
 cracker, three-fourths cup milk, one- 
 eighth teaspoon salt. Scald milk, add 
 cracker, and cook over hot water five 
 minutes, then add salt. 
 
 Caudle (Teo) 
 
 Beat up an egg to a froth ; add a glass 
 of sherry and half a pint of gruel. Flavor 
 with lemon peel, nutmeg and sugar. 
 
UEM0RAN9A 311 
 
312 CXX)KINQ FOR THE SIOK 
 
 Orangeade 
 
 Cut the yellow rind from one orange 
 and pour a cup of boiling water over 
 it. Sweeten to taste. Chill and add a 
 teaspoon of lemon juice and the juice 
 of the orange. Serve with shaved ice. 
 This may be varied by using currant, 
 grape, cranberry, apricot or grape fruit 
 juice. 
 
 Toast Points 
 
 Cut the bread in one-fourth inch 
 slices, trim neatly and cut in diamond 
 shape. Dry thoroughly in the oven, 
 then toast to a delicate brown. Toast 
 whether served dry or as cream toast 
 should he made in this way. 
 
 Potato Soup 
 
 To one-half cup of mashed potato 
 add one cup of hot milk, heat in a 
 double boiler with four drops of onion 
 juice and one-fourth teaspoon of chopped 
 parsley. Thicken with one-half tea- 
 spoon of flour moistened with one tea- 
 spoon of cold milk. Season with salt 
 and red pepper if allowed. Beat thor- 
 oughly and strain. 
 
 Meat Custard 
 
 Dissolve one-half teaspoon of beef 
 extract in a half cup of hot water, add 
 to half a cup of hot milk and season 
 with salt, and pepper if allowed. Pour 
 over a beaten egg and bake in a custard 
 cup in a pan of hot water. 
 
 Broiled Sweetireads 
 
 Select the throat sweetbreads and 
 soak a half hour in cold water. Place 
 in boiling salted water with a teaspoon 
 of vinegar. Cook without boiling 
 twenty-five minutes. Then place in 
 cold water. Carefully remove every 
 trace of the pipe and membrane sur- 
 rounding each lobe. They are then 
 ready for the various dishes, but should 
 only be heated, not again cooked. For 
 broiling split and place in a fine wire 
 broiler. When brown serve with lemon 
 and toast points. 
 
HEHOBAND& 313 
 
*««Index«*« 
 
 A 
 
 Algonquin Oyster Stew 304 
 
 Almond and Celery Soup 72 
 
 Almond Pudding 198 
 
 Apple and Cocoanut Pie 2M 
 
 Apple Compote with Orange Marmalade.. 210 
 
 Apple Fritters 166 
 
 Apple Jam 290 
 
 Apple Pie, Fairy 240 
 
 Apple Pie, Shaker 236 
 
 Apple Sherbet 21S 
 
 Apples in Maple Syrup 208 
 
 Apricot Ice in Jelly Cups 224 
 
 Artichoke Salad 152 
 
 Asparagus in Aspic Jelly 122 
 
 Asparagus Newburg 300 
 
 Asparagus Blssoles 124 
 
 Aspic Jelly Salad 146 
 
 B 
 
 Baked Apple Dumplings 184 
 
 Baked Bean Sandwiches '£19 
 
 Baked Fillets of Pish SO 
 
 Baked Hubbard Squash 138 
 
 Baked Stuffed Fish 82 
 
 Banana Dessert 210 
 
 Banana Fluff 226 
 
 Banana Snow 202 
 
 Bancroft Pudding 190 
 
 Bean and Celery Soup 72 
 
 Bean Porridge ; 68 
 
 Beans, Baked 132 
 
 Beans, Baked Corn and 136 
 
 Beans, Baked without Pork 136 
 
 Beans Haricot 134 
 
 Bernaise Sauce 112 
 
 Bechamel Sauce 114 
 
 Beef, Roast Fillet of 90 
 
 Beef, Spiced 94 
 
 Beef Stock 66 
 
 Beet Fritters a la Dickens 128 
 
 Biscuit Cream 226 
 
 Black Bean Soup 70 
 
 Blackberry Bounce 40 
 
 Blackberry Jam 290 
 
 Boiled Cream Dressing 140 
 
 Bonne Bouche, A 174 
 
 Braised Beef 92 
 
 Ducks 102 
 
 Breadsticks 58 
 
 Brine for Corning 106 
 
 Broiled Ham 106 
 
 Broiled Sweetbreads 318 
 
 Brown Bread, Steamed 54 
 
 Brown Sauce 110 
 
 Brown Almond Icing 264 
 
 Brussels Salad 142 
 
 Brussels Sprouts 138 
 
 Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts 138 
 
 Butter Scotch 298 
 
 Buttercups 292 
 
 Buttermilk Biscuit 54 
 
 C 
 
 Cabbage Souffle 136 
 
 Cabbage, Swedish 172 
 
 Cabbage with Ham 136 
 
 Caffe Cup, Hungarian 44 
 
 Candied Sweet Potatoes 124 
 
 Canning 27S 
 
 Canton Nut Pudding 224 
 
INDEX 315 
 
 Caramel Sauce 118 
 
 Carrots au Jus 138 
 
 Caudle 310 
 
 Cauliflower and Beet Salad 150 
 
 Fritters 136 
 
 Celery Rolls 170 
 
 Sandwiches 270 
 
 Cereals, Table for Cooking 46 
 
 Chateaubriand .92 
 
 Cheese, Eggs and 64 
 
 Sscalloped Tomato and 132 
 
 Fondu in Shells 154 
 
 Heartlets 244 
 
 Pie 158 
 
 Potted 272 
 
 Soup, Cream of 74 
 
 Straws 244 
 
 Chestnuts, Brussels Sprouts with 138 
 
 Cream Puree of 72 
 
 Chicken Creamed with Fresh Mushrooms. 302 
 
 Or Turkey Fritters 164 
 
 Ramekins of 160 
 
 Shaker Fricasseed 104 
 
 Spring 102 
 
 Chocolate Arabics 296 
 
 Crullers 260 
 
 Loaf 252 
 
 Pie 250 
 
 Soup 76 
 
 Christmas Tarts 248 
 
 Chupe 170 
 
 Clam Fritters 166 
 
 Soup 70 
 
 Coal Range, The 32 
 
 Cocoa 40 
 
 Iced 40 
 
 Cocoanut Custards 246 
 
 Ice « 218 
 
 Coffee 40 
 
 Cake 258 
 
 Frozen Turkish 220 
 
 Nut Caramels 296 
 
 Sauce 120 
 
 Cold Meat Salad 150 
 
 Consomme 66 
 
 Cooliing, Modes of 37 
 
 Corn Fritters 132 
 
 Souffle 132 
 
 Souffle 156 
 
 Corned Tongue 106 
 
 Crab Appetizer 272 
 
 Crabs a la Creole 304 
 
 Deviled 158 
 
 Cracker Gruel 310 
 
 Cranberry .Fritters 164 
 
 Patties 246 
 
 Pudding 184 
 
 Cream Dates ~. 210 
 
 Nut Filling 264 
 
 Creamed Chicken with Fresh Mushrooms. 302 
 
 Fish 86 
 
 Kidneys 302 
 
 Terrapin 302 
 
 Creamy Rice Pudding 193 
 
 Cucumber and Sweetbread Salad 144 
 
 Fritters 122 
 
 Currant Preserves 284 
 
 D 
 
 Dainty Dessert, A -. 210 
 
 !3ate and Apple Pie 240 
 
 Blancmange 204 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding 182 
 
 Buns 56 
 
 Cake 258 
 
 Mold 202 
 
 Puffs 262 
 
 Sandwiches 266 
 
 Suet Pudding 182 
 
 Dates, Cream 210 
 
 Delmonlco Stew ™J 
 
 Deviled Cheese 274 
 
 Crabs 158 
 
 Don'ts from a Stove Repairer 34 
 
 Doughnuts, Raised Shaker |B| 
 
 Dream Cakes *'» 
 
316 INDEX 
 
 Dresden Chocolate Crumbu 210 
 
 Dried Fruit Soup 76 
 
 Duchess Prunes 208 
 
 Duck Salad 144 
 
 El 
 
 Kast India Salad 149 
 
 Ebb and Sardine Canape ...274 
 
 Sandwiches 266 
 
 Sauce 114 
 
 Timbales 64 
 
 Kegs and Cheese 64 
 
 Au Gratin 62 
 
 Spanish 64 
 
 Vermicelli 62 
 
 English Walnut Cake, Orange Dressing. . .260 
 Walnut Pie 240 
 
 Escalloped Chicken with Green Peppers 
 
 and Tomatoes 156 
 
 Fish 86 
 
 Espagnole Sauce 110 
 
 F 
 
 Fairy Butter 279 
 
 Fig and Banana Mousse 204 
 
 Fritters 164 
 
 Fig Pudding 208 
 
 Figaro Sauce 114 
 
 Fillets of Fish, Baked 89 
 
 Filling, Maple Cream 186 
 
 Finnan Haddie 306 
 
 On Toast 84 
 
 Fire, To build and keep 33 
 
 Fish 78 
 
 A la Lee 82 
 
 And Bgg, Shaker 84 
 
 Flemish Soup 72 
 
 Flour Gruel 310 
 
 Flower or Fruit Butter .• 279 
 
 Salad 150 
 
 Fondant 292 
 
 Food for Indoor and outdoor workers 31 
 
 What makes a 30 
 
 Frappes 214 
 
 French Dressing 140 
 
 Wedding Cake 2S6 
 
 Fried Sggs (2 
 
 Nuts 170 
 
 Sandwiches with Ham 268 
 
 Fritter Batter 162 
 
 Frozen Nut Pudding 224 
 
 Orange Pudding 230 
 
 Peaches 220 
 
 Pudding 224 
 
 Tomato Salad ISO 
 
 Fruit Butter, Flower or 270 
 
 Rissolettes 248 
 
 Snow 204 
 
 Soup 76 
 
 Soup, Dried : 76 
 
 Tarts 248 
 
 Tuttl FruitU 284 
 
 © 
 
 Game in Potato Cases 174 
 
 Game Mousse in Cucumber Jelly 146 
 
 Gas Range, The 35 
 
 Gelatine Cream Cake 254 
 
 General Information 80 
 
 Ginger Chocolate Creams, Soft 292 
 
 Cobbler 42 
 
 Ice 216 
 
 Mousse 200 
 
 Pudding 182 
 
 Glace Walnuts 298 
 
 Glorified Kice Pudding 196 
 
 Golden Ball Fritters 164 
 
 Good Friday Pudding 186 
 
 Gooseberry Fool 208 
 
 Gooseberry Ice 218 
 
 Marmalade 290 
 
 Pudding 188 
 
 'Souffle 184 
 
 Sponge 200 
 
INDEX 317 
 
 Gooseberry Trifle 208 
 
 Qrape Sherbet 228 
 
 Surprise 20S 
 
 Oreen Sea Turtle In Chafing Dish 304 
 
 Griddle Cake Syrup 120 
 
 H 
 
 Haddock a la Creole 82 
 
 Halibut Tlmbales 160 
 
 With Lemon Sauce 82 
 
 Ham 104 
 
 Broiled 106 
 
 Canapes 274 
 
 Potted 106 
 
 Scalloped 106 
 
 Hard Sauce 118 
 
 Haricot Beans 134 
 
 Harvard Salad 148 
 
 Hash in a New Dress 172 
 
 Hickory Nut Cake, Old-P^shloned 258 
 
 Hickory Nut Canapes 272 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce 116 
 
 Hot Cross Buns 54 
 
 How to Measure 36 
 
 Hulled Corn 134 
 
 I 
 
 Iced Cocoa 40 
 
 Rice Pudding 230 
 
 Tea 40 
 
 Imperatrlce Frozen Pudding 230 
 
 India Curried Onion 308 
 
 Indian Meal Gruel 310 
 
 Indian Meal Timbalee 162 
 
 Indian Pudding 188 
 
 Indian Rice Pudding 182 
 
 Italian Croquettes 170 
 
 J 
 
 Johnnycake 56 
 
 K 
 
 Kartoffel Salad 146 
 
 Kidney Relish 176 
 
 I. 
 
 Ladylocks 242 
 
 Lamb Cutlets 96 
 
 Piquant 306 
 
 Lemon Blancmange 202 
 
 Cream 194 
 
 Custard Pie 242 
 
 Rice Pudding 182 
 
 Sherbet 216 
 
 Snowballs 186 
 
 Lentil Croquettes 168 
 
 Lime Sherbet 42 
 
 Liver Skewered 108 
 
 Tlmbales of 160 
 
 Lobster Butter 272 
 
 Newburg 30O 
 
 Lyonnaise Tripe 108 
 
 M 
 
 Macaroni au gratln In Cheese Shells 46 
 
 Croquettes 170 
 
 Macaroon Ice Cream 224 
 
 Mousse 232 
 
 Madeira Sabayon Sauce 118 
 
 Manhattan Mousse Salad 142 
 
 Manipulation 38 
 
 Maple and Butternut Cream 294 
 
 Bisque 228 
 
 Candy 294 
 
 Charlotte Russe 198 
 
 Cream Filling 18S 
 
 Custard 194 
 
 Custard Pie 236 
 
 Ice Cream 226 
 
318 INDEX 
 
 Maple Ice Cream Sauce 228 
 
 Mousse 204 
 
 Nut Mousse 232 
 
 Shortcake 186 
 
 Sugar Sandwiches 276 
 
 Marlborough Pie 240 
 
 Marmalade Rice Cups 190 
 
 Marshmallow Cream 201 
 
 Fudge 296 
 
 Mashed Sweet Potatoes 124 
 
 Turnip, Shaker 138 
 
 Mayonnaise Dressing 140 
 
 Measure, How to 36 
 
 Meat Ball Stew 96 
 
 Custard 312 
 
 Loaf 92 
 
 Meats 88 
 
 Mexican Caramels 294 
 
 Ice Cream 222 
 
 Midsummer Salad 140 
 
 Migas 178 
 
 Mince Pie, A New 238 
 
 Shaker 238 
 
 Mincemeat 250 
 
 Mock Terrapin 304 
 
 Molded Fish -. 80 
 
 MouBseline Sauce 112 
 
 Mushroom Soup 70 
 
 Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon 96 
 
 N 
 
 Neapolitans 248 
 
 Neufchatel Salad 142 
 
 New England Prune Pudding 184 
 
 Nut Squares 284 
 
 O 
 
 Oatmeal Bread 56 
 
 Gruel 310 
 
 Olive Brown Sauce 110 
 
 Sandwiches 266 
 
 Onion, India Curried 308 
 
 Soup, Thickened 68 
 
 Onions, Tomatoes, Corn and 134 
 
 Opera Creams 294 
 
 Orange Date Pudding ..188 
 
 Dressing 260 
 
 Foam Sauce 120 
 
 Food .200 
 
 Ice 214 
 
 Marmalade Sauce 114 
 
 Sauce for Ducks 114 
 
 Trifle 198 
 
 Oven Stew 94 
 
 Oyster Cocktails 274 
 
 Oysters, Boston 86 
 
 In Shell 86 
 
 P 
 
 Pancakes, Rye 60 
 
 Parisienne Tomatoes 130 
 
 Parsley Butter 270 
 
 Pastry, Shaker 236 
 
 Peanut Brittle 298 
 
 Ice Cream 224 
 
 Peas, Green 126 
 
 Pecan Nut Sandwiches 268 
 
 Pepper Sandwiches 266 
 
 Pickles, Cherries, Plums and German 
 
 Prunes 288 
 
 Pigs In Blanket 156 
 
 Pineapple Meringue 226 
 
 Pineapple Shortcake 192 
 
 Sponge 206 
 
 Piquante Sauce 112 
 
 Pistachio Sauce 120 
 
 Plain Omelet 62 
 
 «Pluni Pudding 180 
 
 Plum Pudding 180 
 
 Plum Pudding Bonbons 294 
 
 Polish Tarts 248 
 
 Pompadour Rice 196 
 
 Pork Scallop 174 
 
INDEX 319 
 
 Potato Croquettes 126 
 
 Custards 126 
 
 Pyramid 126 
 
 Soup 70 
 
 i. Soup 312 
 
 Potted Cheese 272 
 
 Ham 106 
 
 Prune and Kice Meringue 196 
 
 Jelly 206 
 
 - Sherbet 218 
 
 Sponge 194 
 
 Prunes and English Walnuts 212 
 
 On Toast 212 
 
 Puff Paste 234 
 
 Pumpkin Fanchonettes 246 
 
 Patties 246 
 
 Pie 238 
 
 Waffles 60 
 
 Q 
 
 Quail Pates 174 
 
 R 
 
 Raised Cake 260 
 
 Doughnuts, Shaker 262 
 
 Raspberry Charlotte 200 
 
 Rice Custard 194 
 
 Dessert with Chocolate Meringue 196 
 
 Mousse with Prunes 232 
 
 With Dates 198 
 
 With Fruit Sauce 188 
 
 With Lamb or Mutton 96 
 
 Rich Spice Cake 258 
 
 Richmond Maids of Honor 244 
 
 Rye Pancakes 60 
 
 Salad a la Suisse 144 
 
 Salmon Canapes 272 
 
 Loaf 84 
 
 Loaf, Sauce for 112 
 
 Sandwiches 270 
 
 Salsify Fritters 122 
 
 Salt Cod with Tomatoes 84 
 
 Sardine Salad 148 
 
 Sardines, Fried, with Hot Mayonnaise 84 
 
 Sassafras Mead 42 
 
 Sausage and Apples 108 
 
 Savory Butter 272 
 
 Scalloped Ham 106 
 
 Scotch Woodcock a ;306 
 
 Sea Turtle In Chafing Dish, Green 304 
 
 Shrimp Salad 150 
 
 Somerset Croquettes 166 
 
 Souffle a la Relne 100 
 
 Sour Cream Filling 264 
 
 Sour Milk Cake 256 
 
 Spanish Slggs 64 
 
 Sauce 110 
 
 Steak 94 
 
 Tamales 158 
 
 Spiced Beef 94 
 
 Currants 288 
 
 Spinach 122 
 
 Sponge Cake 254 
 
 Spring Soup 74 
 
 Squash and Almond Croquettes 178 
 
 Squash, Baked Hubbard 128 
 
 Fried Summer 128 
 
 Pie 242 
 
 Puff 128 
 
 Steak, Spanish ; ... 94 
 
 With Tomato 172 
 
 Stew, Meat Ball 96 
 
 Oven .....94 
 
 Stock, Beef '..... m 
 
 Strawberry Mousse, Frozen ...216 
 
 Pie 246 
 
 Plombiere 228 
 
 Preserves 282 
 
 Puffs 262 
 
 Shortcake 190 
 
 Soup It 
 
 Trifle 20i 
 
320 INDEX 
 
 stuffed Apples VtS 
 
 Squash 178 
 
 Tomatoes 12S 
 
 Sugar Syrup 40 
 
 Sunshine Cake 252 
 
 Supreme of Chicken 158 
 
 Sweetbreads 108 
 
 Tlmbales 162 
 
 Broiled 312 
 
 In Ramekins 166 
 
 Newburg 300 
 
 Sweet Pickled Peaches 288 
 
 Sweet Potato Croquettes 168 
 
 Sweet Potato Fritters 126 
 
 Sweet Potato Tlmbales 178 
 
 Sweet Potatoes, Mashed 124 
 
 Syrup, Griddle Cake 120 
 
 Syrup, Sugar 40 
 
 T 
 
 Table of Weights and Measures 37 
 
 Tarts, Christmas 248 
 
 Fruit 248 
 
 Polish 248 
 
 Tea 40 
 
 Cakes 283 
 
 Iced 40 
 
 Sandwiches 26S 
 
 Thickened Milk .,.., 310 
 
 Timbale Cases 1S4 
 
 Halibut Ut 
 
 To build and keep a fire 83 
 
 Toast Points 312 
 
 Tomato and Cheese, Escalloped..'., 133 
 
 And Rice Soup 68 
 
 Tomato and Truffle Salad 148 
 
 Cups 148 
 
 Cups with Green Corn Filling 130 
 
 Fritters 130 
 
 'Jelly Salad 148 
 
 Sauce 112 
 
 Sherbet 220 
 
 Tlmbales 162 
 
 Tomatoes, Corn and Onions 134 
 
 Parlsenne 130 
 
 Salt Cod with 84 
 
 Stuffed 128 
 
 Tongue, Corned 106 
 
 Fingers ". 176 
 
 Sandwiches 268 
 
 Trianon Sauce 113 
 
 Tripe Lyonnaise 108 
 
 Turkey a la Savoy 98 
 
 Dumplings ..100 
 
 Fritters, Chicken or 16* 
 
 Gumbo 66 
 
 Newburg 300 
 
 Roast 98 
 
 With Tomato Sauce 100 
 
 Turnip, Shaker Mashed 138 
 
 Turnips with Yellow Sauce 138 
 
 Turnovers 186 
 
 Tuttl Fruttl Fruit 284 
 
 Tutu FrutU Vegetable 286 
 
 V 
 
 Veal felrds 98 
 
 Vegetable Tuttl Frutti 286 
 
 Veeretarlan Rice 156 
 
 W 
 
 Waffles 60 
 
 Pumpkin 60 
 
 Walnut Sandwiches 268 
 
 Watercress Salad ' 152 
 
 Watermelon Sherbet 220 
 
 -WateT Lily Salad 142 
 
 What Makes a Food 30 
 
 White Loaf Cake '54 
 
 White Sauce 110 
 
 T 
 
 Torkshireman's Delight ITS 
 
1