^-^ Cornell University Library The original of this bool< is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924063875169 In compliance with current copyright law, Mann Library at Cornell University produced this replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984 to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. 1992 LONDON : ailEEET ASD BIVIN&TON, PBINTEKS, ST. johk'b SQUAEE. Frontisfiece.'\ ' Gilpin's forest scenery.' o (J GILPIN'S FOREST SCENERY. WITH NOTES AND AN INTRODUCTION, FHANCIS GEORGE HEATH, AUTHOK OF ' OUBJVOODLAND TKEES," " THE FEUN WORLD," "THE EEBN PAUADISE," "BURNUAM BEECHES," "TREES AND I'ERNS," "THE ENGLISH PEASANTRY," "THK 'romance' of PEASANT LIFE," ETC., ETC. ILontiou: JAMES NIS]]E'r & CO., 21 15EKNEKS STllEET. 1887. Mil |yW/ r'uihts rcscni'd.} 477 4.6255 INTEODUCTION. Nearly a century has passed since English readers were first charmed by the perusal of a series of works which, emanating from the pen of a clergy- man, and composed in the quietness and seclusion of an English woodland village, were given to the world under the title of ' Observations relative chiefly to Picturesque Beauty.' Their Author was William Gilpin, ' Prebendary of Salisbury and Vicar of Boldre, in New Forest, near Lym- ington ; ' and the books have been handed down to the present generation, are carefully preserved in select libraries, are prized by book collectors, and are, still, eagerly sought for by those who have heard of Gilpin's fame but have never seen his writings. But of all Gilpin's delightful works his ' Forest Scenery ' is the most famous ; and the best proof of the popularity of the particular portion of his ^ Observations on Picturesque Beauty ' published VI INTEODUCTION. under that title, is afforded by the circumstance that, at a period when there was little public interest in aught connected with forestry, this work should have passed through three editions. During recent years public feeling on the sub- ject of our wild woodlands has undergone a vast change ; and the reason for this change is not far to seek. Unfeelingly, persistently, remorselessly, the hand of the spoiler has been at work over all our fair island. Primeval woods have been robbed of their ancient splendour. Bricks and mortar have been rapidly choking the country — as God made it. The greenwood shade, over large areas, has given place to hot and dusty streets. Eailways, mines, and manufactures have oblite- rated, all around us, the forest lawn, redolent of the perfume of wild plants; the forest heath, empurpled with the bloom of heather, or golden with flowering gorse; the woodland copse and ancient stately grove which sweetly strained the music of the winds. A population rapidly augmenting, and the increasing necessities of a commercial nation, advancing with rapid strides in the path of prosperity, have — necessarily^evied INTRODUCTION. VU heavy contributions upon the woods and fields. But above and beyond all that has been essential for promoting the advancement of a great people, there has been ruthless destruction of our beautiful woods. Public lands, which should at least have been free from wholesale appropriation, have shared the common fate. Commissioners, armed with power which has been practically despotic, have done their worst by bartering away open rights of common, by enclosing and facilita- ting the enclosure of wayside grounds and village greens, by laying the axe to the roots of grand old trees which sprang into existence before the com- mencement of modern history ; and, in short, by annihilating, remorselessly, whatever their destroy- ing hands could reach of the sylvan picturesque- ness and beauty of our island. This work, however, of enclosure and spoliation has, fortunately, of late years, created a strong pub- lic opinion, which before was non-existent, against the further destruction of our woods and forests ; and, though very much of what was beautiful is gone beyond recall, we have, still, some delightful rem- nants left of our primeval trees, of rolling moor- Vlll JNTKODUCTION. land, gorse-clad heath, and open down. The in- habitants of our great and growing cities — grow- ing, unfortunately, at the expense of what God made — ' the country' — now thirst, as they never thirsted before, for green winding lane and sylvan glade, and, in the joyous holiday seasons, turn from the dry, hot air of the street to the breezy field-path with a yearning which was never before experienced in the same degree. But long anterior — as we have seen — to the existence of that public feeling, created and strengthened by the action of those worse than modern vandals^men who have ruthlessly de- stroyed what have been beautifully and appro- priately called ' the buildings of God ' — buildings which, once levelled with the ground, no human art can restore — and long before a sense of depri- vation began to' deepen public interest in oxir wild woods and open commons, the public mind was attracted to the subject by the quiet charm and the all-pervading simplicity of Gilpin's writings. The success of these writings, therefore, in the absence of any immediately exciting cause, can be attributed only and solely to their intrinsic merit. INTEODUCTION. IX The first publication (in London) of the most famous of Gilpin's works, under tlie title of ' Re- marks on Forest Scenery and otlier "Woodland Views (relative chiefly to Picturesque Beauty),' took place in 1791. But Gilpin informs us that he had written the manuscript of this work ten years before that date. It was ' printed for R. Blamire, Strand.' A Second Edition, by the same publisher, appeared in 1794. Gilpin died in 1804, but a Third Edition of the ' Forest Scenery ' ap- peared in 1808, and the publishers of this edition were T. Cadell and W. Davies, of the Strand. Twenty-six years afterwards, namely, in 1834, a New Edition, with notes, was published by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder, Bart. But, by a strange inadvertence, this Edition was printed fi'om the text of the original Edition of 1791, and the Editor was, evidently, unaware that Gilpin had thoroughly revised the first issue, and had made important alterations in and additions to the work, most of which appeared in the Second Edition of 1794. Though he died four years before the pub- lication of the Third Edition, he had made some alterations in the work subsequently to 1794, and X INTEODUCTION. tbese duly appeared in 1808.* It is known that lie was most careful to re-read and correct his ■writings ; for he states that, in the course of the ten years during which he kept the manuscript of his 'Forest Scenery,' it received 'frequent revisal.' The fact that Sir Thomas Dick Lauder omitted the whole of the additions and corrections made by Gilpin greatly detracts, unfortunately, from the value of his Edition, which is, moreover, over- loaded with notes, many of which, though in some degree relevant to the subject-matter of Gilpin's work, are altogether uncalled for, and, in consequence, make constant and unseasonable interruption in the pleasant flow of the text. In the Edition of 1834', in fact, it is not so much Gilpin as Lauder who is prominent throughout, and a considerable portion of the Editor's notes is taken up with a descriptive enumeration of trees, which would have been more in place in a horticultural handbook than amongst the pages of the delightful Author of the ' Forest Scenery.' In many essential points, too, in Lauder's Edition, no * We learn from Mr. Garnett that the edition of 1808 is not in the British Museum. INTEODUOTION, XI attempt appears to have been made to correct or explain Gilpin's statements up to the date of the new publication — the most essential part of edi- torial duty. Where an editor approves, he should, in most cases,be silent — for his silence will pre-sup- pose acquiescence. This rule, however. Sir T. D. Lauder continually fails to observe ; and his fre- quent interposition offends the reader. Nor was the First Editor of the ' Forest Scenery ' more happy in his illustrations. He does not attempt to reproduce the charmingly-suggestive landscapes of Gilpin, or the drawings illustrating the portion of the work devoted to trees in combination, but gives, chiefly, a series of inferiorwood engravings of singularly ineffective and clumsy drawings of indi- vidual trees. The letter-press of the First Edition is preserved in its entirety, but the spirit and the charm of Gilpin, in all other respects, are gone. The delightful writer on ' Picturesque Beauty ' made no profession to be a botanist. He was an artist, with a true artist's instinctive feelings — a deep love of Nature, an intense dislike of all formality, an intuitive recognition of the beautiful harmony prevailing in the natural world, together XU INTROD POTION. with a keen percepfcion of the picturesqueness produced by the suggestive as well as by the apparent beauty of natural objects. But, ere we say more of our Author's work, we must say something of the man himself ; and, for the materials for the brief account (which follows) of his life, we are indebted to a ' Memoir ' of him, written by ' An Admirer of his character and works,' and published in 1851 — at Lymington, by W. L. Galpine, and, in London, by Hamilton and Adams. This memoir only professes to give an outline of Gilpin's life, and it naturally expresses regret that materials for a fuller bio- graphy were not easily accessible, owing, mainly, to the fact that the Author of the ' Forest Scenery ' never kept a diary, ' nor left any papers behind him from which interesting particulars could be gathered of himself.' Here, however, as we have said, we purpose to give a few details only of his life and work. "William Gilpin was born on the 4th of June, 1724, at Scaleby Castle, near Carlisle, where his family had lived for three generations. His father was Captaia John Bernard Gilpin, a lineal INTRODUCTION. Xlll. descendant of the Kev. Bernard Gilpin, famous in tlie history of the Protestant Reformation as ' The Apostle of the North.' Of the youth of our Author very little is known. Having been designed by his parents for the ministry, he was sent to Queen's College, Oxford, where he graduated as a Bachelor of Arts, November 24th, 1744. He was ordained two years later, namely, in October, 1746 ; and the same year was ap- pointed a stipendiary curate by the Rev. James Parish, vicar of Irthington, a parish adjoining his native village of Scaleby. He occupied this curacy for less than two years, and, in May, 1748, he proceeded to Oxford and took his M.A. degree. During the four following years he held, at least, two curacies, one in the diocese of Winchester, and the other in that of London ; but, curiously enough, his biographer has been unable to ascer- tain the names of the parishes in which these appointments were held. In 1 762 Gilpin gave up the Ciurch for a time, and accepted an appoint-' ment as principal assistant in the school of the Rev. Daniel Sanxay, at Cheam, in Surrey — after- wards succeeding, on the retirement of Mr. XIV INTRODUCTION. Sanxay, to the entire control of the school. Speaking of him in this capacity his biographer says : — ' Religion was the foundation-stone on which he built the fabric of all instruction that he imparted to his pupils, while he instilled into their minds the noblest sentiments that are deducible from moral principles of the highest nature. On such a superstructure he could hardly fail of success, more particularly so when, to it, he added a gentleness of manners that won the confidence of his pupils, whom he trained to virtue by example tutored with love and disciplined by kindness.' In the same year in which he took up his residence at Cheam, Gilpin married an orphan niece of his uncle. His marriage he after- wards described as one of almost uninterrupted happiness. Two sons aud two daughters were born of this marriage. Of these, the daughters both died whilst young ; one of the sons emigrated to America, and the other — William, the youngest — entered the Church. During the year 1770, and subsequently, our Author undertook numerous tours through various parts of England, Scotland, and Wales. His bio- INTEODUOTION. XV grapher says : — ' These tours were made for tlie purpose of admiring the works of creation; and with a view of seeing the most picturesque scenery in this kingdom, he visited those spots that are proverbial for their beauty. One of the leading features in Gilpin's character was his very ardent love of the works of Nature. His numerous writings on picturesque beauty demonstrate that, from the blade of grass to the towering Elm, from the level plain to the stupendous mountain, from the running rivulet to the majestic ocean, his at- tention was directed to investigate their beauties, not merely with the curiosity of the naturalist, but with the reverence of a man who beholds all creation " prompt with remembrance of a present God." ' Whilst on his tours Gilpin adopted the plan of sketching any scenery which struck him as being remarkable, and he thus made a collec- tion of drawings for illustrating his works on picturesque beauty. In 1777 he resigned his school at Cheam, having, at the end of the twenty-fivo years during which he had held it, realized a sum of ten thousand pounds. In the same year one of his old pupils — William XVI TNTEODUOTION. Mitford, ttie historian of G-reece — presented him, as a mark of esteem, to the living of Boldre, in the New Forest, near Lymington. There he re- mained until the close of his life, and it was there he wrote nearly the whole of his works, extending to twenty-four volumes. His writings on pictur- esque beauty were all written and published during his residence in that quiet woodland village. Of Gilpin, as a preacher of the Gospel, his biographer gives us the following picture : — ' Favoured by nature with a commanding person, dignified manners, and a deep, sonorous voice, and blessed with an education which gave him all the classic proprieties and simple grace of public speaking, his mode of saying the liturgy, reading the Scriptures, and preaching was almost in- imitable. When he said the former, the beauty of its composition appeared to have acquired additional solemnity from the full melody of his voice, and the deep emotion of his solemn and forcible manner ; while reading the Scriptures, in reciting either their awful predictions, or in delivering their terrible denunciations, he seemed to be warmed with a portion of their own fire, or INTEODUCTION. XVll to have received a spark of their inspiration. His style of preaching was most impressive. On ascending the pulpit every eye and ear was rivetted with attention, as with a depth of feeling and power of language of the most impressive nature, he delivered the Gospel message in all its fulness, and in all the plenitude of its divine mission ; but, nevertheless, in words so plain as to be distinctly understood by the most unlettered of his humble flock.' Not less earnest were his private ministrations, for there were no cottagers within the bounds of his extensive parish, who failed to find in their pastor a ready sympathizer in all their troubles and sorrows. In 1791 he erected a school at a cost of 400Z., the money having been set apart for this excellent purpose out of the profits of his publications. Eleven years afterwards he determined to endow this school, and, in order to enable him to do so, he sold a number of his drawings, for which he obtained a sum of 1200Z., investing the amount in the public funds. This sum was added to a small amount which had been pre- viously invested with a similar object, and was a xvni INTRODTJOTION. further augmented by tlie proceeds of a sale of his drawings — "wMcli, in accordance with, his will, took place immediately after his death, and pro- duced a sum of 1625Z. — the entire amount in- vested bringing in an annual revenue of 87L ' Gilpin's School ' is now amalgamated with a general school, established in Boldre for that and an adjoining parish. We must now bring our brief notice of Gilpin and his work to a close. The death of this faith- ful minister, generous benefactor, and delightful writer occurred, as we have seen, in 1804. His widow survived him by only three years, and both were buried in Boldre churchyard, beneath the shadow of the Field Maple, to which he has referred in his ' Forest Scenery.' The inscrip- tion on the joint grave is as follows ; — ' In a quiet mansion beneath this stone, secure from the afflic- tions and still more dangerous enjoyments of life, lye the remains of William Gilpin, sometime vicar of this parish, together with the remains of Mar- garet, his wife. After living above fifty years in haippj union, they hope to be raised in God's due time, through the atonement of a Blessed INTRODUCTION. XIX Redeemer for their repented transgressions, to a state of joyful immortality. There it will be a new joy to meet several of their good neigh- bours, who lye scattered in these sacred precincts around them.' To this inscription, suggested by Gilpin himself, is added : — ' He died April 5th, 1804, at the age of eighty. She died July 14th, 1807, at the age of eighty-two.' In 1842, a subscription was raised in order to place a monumental tablet to Gilpin in Boldre church. The monument is placed on the north side of the church, and the inscription upon it bears testimony to the fact that the author of the ' Forest Scenery ' was ' a man eminent for the ac- complishments of his mind, the purity of his heart, and the excellence and simplicity of his life ; ' and it records that the monument was dedicated to his memory by his friends and parishioners ' in grate- ful remembrance of his faithful administration of the pastoral office, and of his munificence as the founder of the school in this parish, for the educa- tion of the children of the day labourers of Boldre.' From the man to his writings, and, of these, we a 2 XX INTEODUGTION. shall notice, here, those only which have made him famous. The first of these Tfas published in 1782, ahd was entitled ' Observations on the River Wje, and several parts of South Wales, relative chiefly to picturesque beauty, made in the summer of the year 1770.' The commendation of the poet Gray had encouraged Gilpin to put this book before the public. Its success gave him still further encouragement. In 1787 he published ' Observations relative chiefly to picturesque beauty, made in the year 1772, on several parts of England, particularly the mountains and lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland.' In 1789 appeared ' Observations on several parts of Great Britain, particularly the Highlands of Scotland, relative chiefly to picturesque beauty, made in the year 1776.' The next work in the order of pub- lication was his ' Forest Scenery,' the date and particulars of which we have already given. In 1792 Gilpin published ' Three Essays ; on pic- turesque beauty, on picturesque travel, and on sketching landscape, with a poem on landscape painting.' The last volume published before his death was entitled ' Observations on the Western INTBODUCTION. XXI parts of England, relative chiefly to picturesque beauty, to wHch is added a few remarks on the picturesque beauties of the Isle of Wight.' In 1804, the same year in which he died, his trustees published for the benefit of his school at Boldre, in conformance with the Author's will, a volume entitled ' Observations on the Coast of Hampshire, Sussex, and Kent, relative chiefly to picturesque beauty, made in the summer of the year 1774.' Another volume, published in 1809 by Gilpin's trustees, was entitled ' Observations on several parts of the counties of Cambridge, Norfolk, Suffolk, and Essex ; also on several parts of North Wales, relative chiefly to picturesque beauty; in two tours — the former made in the year 1769, and the latter in the year 1773.' These works on pic- turesque beauty were illustrated by the pencil of the Author, and produced as aquatinta engravings by Mr. Aiken, who, in the last century, had acquired a considerable reputation by his skill in executing drawings by that process. The PRESENT EDITION comprises the whole of XXll INTRODUCTION. that portion of Gilpin's work on picturesque beauty, devoted to general forest scenery. It should be explained that under the general heading of ' Eemarks on forest scenery and other woodland views,' the Author included chapters on 'forest history,' as well as a history and description of the New Forest in Hampshire, as it was in the last /ientury. Strictly speaking, therefore, all that comes properly within the category of ' Forest Scenery ' is included in the present volume, which takes the reader seriatim through the first ten sections of the Third Edition of 1808. All the important corrections made by Gilpin subsequently to the publication of the First Edition in 1791, appear for the first time in a New Edition after a lapse of seventy-one years — for, as already stated. Sir Thomas Dick Lauder's Edition of 1834, was printed from the unrevised issue of 1791. We confess to feelings of unusual pleasure in making the present endeavour to bring again into prominence, after so long an interval of time, one of the most delightful books in the English lan- guage. "We confess, too, to the feelings of surprise which we experienced on discovering that no INTEODOCTION. XXUl edition worfhy of the man and of the book had been presented to English readers for nearly three quarters of a century, notwithstanding the reputa- tion which the work had made, and the interest and attraction which it still possessed for all lovers of Nature. We shall never forget our own plea- sure when we made our first acquaintance with the ' Forest Scenery.' The book had for us the charm of romance, and we turned page after page with absorbing interest. Do we mistake the feel- ings of English readers if we venture to think that wherever our language is spoken, ' Gilpin's Forest Scenery ' will be welcomed — in England, in our colonies, and in America ? for its ' observations,' couched in a style pre-eminent for its Anglo- Saxon simplicity and beauty, are redolent of the forest air, and will surely give pleasure and afford delight, wherever, in the wide world, exists an Englishman's love for rolling wood and forest lawn. We would add that our publishers have heartily co-operated with us in the endeavour to make this book worthy of the man who wrote it — for no expense has been spared in the preparation of the present Edition. XXIV INTRODUCTION. For ourselves we have the pleasant reflection that our editorial labour has been a labour of love. And here it will be appropriate to state that the utmost care has been taken in the work of supple- menting the original text with such notes of explanation as were necessary to bring the book up to date, whilst we have given a verbatim tran- scription of Gilpin's work with all his foot-notes, quotations, and italicised words and expressions, — deeming it our duty to interpose our own com- ments as seldom as might be. The orignal text is in large, and our editorial notes in smaller, type. For the information conveyed in these notes we are indebted to the courtesy of a large number of correspondents. Amongst these our obligations are especially due to Lieut. -Colonel Esdaile, of Burley Manor, one of the verderers of our beauti- ful New Forest, who has rendered us material assistance in the prosecution of our inquiries — ■ sparing no labour to promote an object in which he heartily sympathizes, and working 'for the very love of the thing.' London, August, 1879. THE ILLUSTRATIONS. BoLDRE Chuuoh, wliich, for twenty-seven years, "vvas the scene of Gilpin's public ministrations, forms the subject of the frontispiece, which is engraved from an admirable drawing very kindly made for us by Mrs. Lister Kay. ' Gilpin's Maple' is seen on the right, by the church, and under its shadow is his grave. Eeference to this famous tree will be found at page 82, where Gilpin says, ' One of the largest Maples I have seen stands in the churchyard of Boldre, in New Forest.' Our especial acknowledgments are due to Mrs. Lister Kay for this drawing, for, during two visits which she made to the churchyard for the pur- pose of her sketch, the rain, on both occasions, came down with unceasing persistency. But the artist worked, perseveringly, under an umbrella, for ,she had to leave England for a three months' tour XXVI THE ILLUSTRATIONS. abroad, and time pressed. Mr. James D. Cooper is the engraver, and his work, we think, has done full justice to the skill of the fair delineator. The full-page illustrations, consisting chiefly of landscapes, interspersed throughout the volume, have all been redrawn from the subjects furnished by Gilpin himself. To the superintendence of this work — most essential to a worthy repro- duction of the 'Forest Scenery' — we have de- voted the utmost care and attention. We have already stated that Gilpin illustrated his own books, and that the illustrations were executed in aquatinta. An excellent description of the cha- racter of the drawings is given by Gilpin's biographer, who says (page 219 of the Memoir) — ' His productions as an artist are of no ordinary merit, and are principally distinguished for their peculiar style of composition, in which he conveys the general idea of an object, without giving its specific delineations. The ahsence oi portraiture is supplied by the picturesque. Hence, none of his drawings are minutely finished, but are mere spirited sketches.' Looked at, at a distance, and without minute .THE ILLUSTRATIONS, XXVU inspection, there is a cliarm in these rude sketches — something which strongly touches the imagination. But neither the drawing nor en- graving will compare with the work of the present day. The aquatint, however, which over- spreads them, gives them a peculiarly striking appearance. Of the effect of this colouring, Gilpin himself says : — ' As some people, not much versed in matters of this kind, have conceived the tint, with which these acquatinta drawings are stained, to be an attempt to colour after Nature, I would suggest that nothing less is intended. Some litUe idea of the glow of sunset may be given by it ; and this is attempted only in one or two prints. In all the rest, the design of this wash is only to take off the glaring rawness of white paper, and to harmonize, by a mellow tint, the unpleasant opposition of black and white.' The ' glaring rawness ' of white paper and the ' un- pleasant opposition of black and white ' are not to be discerned in the good drawing and engrav- ing of the present day. Hence, though, at first, we felt inclined to reproduce Gilpin's landscapes in facsimile — and this could have been accom- XXVlll THE ILLUSTRATIONS. plished in two -ways — we considered, on reflection, that it would be doing fuller justice to his work to bringinthebest aidsof the artist and wood engraver, by supplying — whilst producing the actual subjects furnished by Gilpin, so characteristic of the spirit and of the charm of his drawings in general — the minutiae of modern artistic work, and the best style of modern wood engraving. It has, therefore, been our most anxious care to see, that in all the details of Gilpin's pictures, the artist should supply what their originator had omitted from his sketches — the filling in of the landscape foregrounds — the proper drawing of the trees and due attention to perspective, to the effects of light and shade, and to the incidental and suggestive beauty added to the scenes by the presence of clouds in the sky — the substitution, in short, of the most skilful artistic work o£ the present day for the conventional drawing and engraving of the eighteenth century. Artist and engraver entered into the work con amore, and they have done their utmost to carry out our suggestions and wishes to the letter. We trust that the result may be considered successful. "With the exception of the ten figures, illustrating THE ILLUSTEATIOXS. XXIX the spray of trees, which are engraved from photo- graphs of Gilpin's figures, all the illustrations of the Author of the 'Forest Scenery' have been re-drawn by Mr. Theobald Carreras, and engraved by Mr. J. D. Cooper. The illustrations will be found at the pages indicated in the subjoined table: — A Pollard, on -vrhioh a single stem has been left to grow into a tree ....... An unbalanced tree, bending over a road . A withered top, hiding the upper part of a landscape A curtailed trunk, hiding the lower part of a landscape A blasted tree, on a heath Spray and ramification of the Oak . Spray and ramification of the Ash . Spray of the Elm Spray and ramification of the Beech Three ill-shaped trees, formed into a good group A well-balanced group .... An ill-balanced group .... A remote wood, stretching along the horizon An irregular summit, with a regular base . An irregular base and summit regularly varied Effect of a meridian sun in a forest . Effect of an evening sun in a forest . 13 19 21 31 141 143 147 147 239 243 245 307 307 309 325 329 CONTENTS. ionh I. TEEES AS SINGLE OBJECTS. SECTION PAGB I. PiOTURESQUii! Beauty op Tubes . 3 II. Characters of Trees .... . 7 III. Sources of Picturesqueness in Trees . 17 IV. Descriptive Enumeration of Trees . . 41 V. Sprat and Foliage . 135 VI. Celebrated Trees . 153 5Book II. COMBINATIONS OF TKEES. I. Trees in Clumps .... . 235 II. Park Scenery . 251 III. The Copse . 263 IV. The Glen . 269 V. The Open Grove .... . 275 VI. The Forest . 285 VII. Forest Lawns and Forest Heaths . . 303 VIII. Distant Forest Scenery . . 311 IX. Scenery affected by the Weather . . 315 X. Effect of the Seasons on Scenery . . 341 The Index . 355 BOOK L TEEES AS SINGLE OBJECTS. GILPIN'S F0EB8T SCENEEY. ^I'ccs iXB single ©bjejrts. SECTION I. PICTUEESQUIii BEAUTY OJ? TEEES. 'iT^C^^^xft"^ is no exaggerated praise to call a tree the grandest and most beau tiful of all the productions o£ the earth. In the former of these epithets nothing contends with it ; for we consider rocks and moun- tains as part of the earth itself. And though, among inferior plants, shrubs, and flowers, there is great beauty, yet when we consider that these minuter productions are chiefly beautiful as individuals, and are not B 2 4 GILPTN S FOREST SCENERY. adapted to form the arrangement of comioosition in landscape, nor to receive tlie effects of light and shade, tliey must give place in point of beauty — of picturesque beauty, at least, wliicli we are here considering — to the form and foliage and ramification of the tree. Thus the splendid tints of the insect, however beautiful, must yield to the elegance and proportion of animals, -which range in a higher class. With' animal life I should not set the tree in competition. The shape, the different- coloured fur, the varied and spirited attitudes, the cha- racter, and motion which strike us in the animal creation, are certainly beyond still life in its most pleasing appearance. I should only observe with regard to trees, that Nature has been kinder to them in point of variety than even to its living forms. Though every animal is distinguished from its fellow by some little variation of colour, character, or shape, yet in all the larger parts, in the body and limbs, the resemblance is generally exact. In trees, it is just the reverse : the smaller parts — the spray, the leaves, the blossom, and the seed — are the same in all trees of the same kind, PIOTUKESQUE BEAUTX OP TEEES. 5 while the lai^gei- parts are wholly different. You never see two Oaks with an equal number of limbs, the same kind of head, and twisted in the same form : and it is from these larger parts that the most beautiful varieties result. However, as variety is not alone sufficient to give superiority to the tree, we give the preference, on the whole, to animal life. SECTION II. OHAEACTEBS OF TBEES. j'^tEEES when young, like striplings, shoot into taper forms. There is a lightness and an airiness in them which is pleasing ; but they do not spread, and receive their just proportions, till they have attained their full growth. There is as much difference, too, in trees (I mean in trees of the same kind) in point of beauty, as there is in human figures. The limbs of some are set on awkwardly ; their trunks are disproportioned, and their whole form is unpleasing. The same rules which establish elegance in other objects, establish it in these. There must be the same harmony of parts, the 8 Gilpin's fokest sceneey. same sweeping line, the same contrast, the same ease and freedom. A bough, indeed, may issue from its trunk at right angles, and yet elegantly, as it frequently does in the Oak; but it must immediately form some contrasting sweep, or the junction will be aAvkward. All forms, that ai'o imnatuval, displease. A tree lopped into a may-pole, as you generally see in the hedgerows of Surrey and some other counties, is disgusting. Clipped Yews, Lime hedges, and pollards, for the same reason, arc disagreeable : and yet I have sometimes seen a pollard produce a good effect, when Nature has been suffered, for some years, to bring it again into form : but I never saw a good effect pro- duced by a pollard on which, some single stem was left to grow into a tree. The stem is ot a different growth : it is disproportioned, and always imites awkwardly with the trunk. Our AutKor here speaks in fclie charactei' of a true lover of Nature, expressing his dislike of the hideous practice of ' trimming ' trees into unnatui'al shapes — a pi-actice which was niiich more common in the last century tban it •is at present. Even now, however, the art of topiary — 'Gilpin's forest scenery.' A pollard, on which a shiyle stem has been left lo grow into a tree. [7%. ! CHARACTERS OF TREES. 11 ■wlaichj curiously enough, was amongst the Eomans con- sidered the highest and most valuable accomplishment of the gardener — still finds some admirers in this country. But it is easy to conceive how repugnant it must have been to a man who had passed the greater part of his life amongst some of the wildest and most beautiful scenes of Nature. — Ed. Not only all forms that are unnatural, dis- please ; but even natural forms, when they bear a resemblance to art, unless indeed these forms are characteristic of the species. A Cypress pleases in a. conic form ; but if we should see an Oak or an Elm gi'owing in that, or any other constrained shape, we should take offence. In the Cypress, Nature adapts the spray and branches to the form of the tree. In the Oak and Elm, the spray and branches produce, naturally, a different character. Lightness also is a characteristic of beauty in a tree : for though there are beautiful trees of a heavy, as well as of a light, form, yet their extremities must in some parts be separated, and hang with a degree of looseness from the fullness of the foliage which occupies the middle of the 12 Gilpin's poeest scenery. tree, or the wliole will only be a large bush. Such is the Horse Chestnut, the form of which is commonly unpleasing.* From position, indeed, and contrast, heaviness, though in itself a defor- mity, may be of singular use in the composition both of natural and of artificial landscape. A tree also must be well balanced to be beau- tiful. It may have form, and it may have light- ness, and yet lose all its effect by wanting a proper poise. The bole must appear to support the branches. We do not desire to see it sup- porting its burden with the perpendicular firm- ness of a cohimn. An easy sweep is always agreeable ■■: but, at the same time, it should not be such a sweep as discovers one side plainly over- balanced. On bleak sea' coasts trees generally take an unbalanced form : and, indeed, in general, some foreign cause must operate to occasion it; for Nature, working freely, is as much inclined to balance a tree upon its trunk, as an animal upoA its legs. * See page 88.— Ed. ' Gilpin's forest scenery.' CHAEAOTEES OP TREES. 15 And yet, in some circumstances, 1 have seen beauty arise even from an unbalanced tree ; but it must arise from some peculiar situation wliich gives it a local propriety. A tree, for instance, hanging from a rock, though totally unpoised, may be beautiful : or it may have a good effect when "we see it bending over a road, because it corresponds -with its peculiar situation. We do not, in these cases, admire it as a tree, but as the adjunct of an effect, the beauty of which does not give the eye leisure to attend to the deformity of the instrument through which the effect is produced. Without these requisites, therefore, form, light- ness, and a proper balance, no tree can have that species of beauty which we call picturesque. ^ SECTION III. SOUECES OP PICTUEESQUENESS IN TREES. jBSIDES these requisites of beauty in a tree, there are other things of an adventitious hind which often add great beauty to it. And here I cannot help lamenting the capri- cious nature of picturesque ideas. In many instances they run counter to utility, and in nothing more than in the adventitious beauties ascribed to tree?. Many of these are derived from the injuries the tree receives, or the diseases to which it is subject. Mr. Lawson, a naturalist of the last age, thus enumerates them. ' How many forests and ■ woods,' says he, ' have we, wherein you shall have, for one lively, thriving tree, four, nay some- 18 Gilpin's pouest scenery. times twenty-four, evil thriving, rotten, and dying trees : what rottenness ! what hollowness ! what dead arms ! withered tops ! curtailed trunks ! what loads of mosses ! drooping boughs and dying branches, shall you see everywhere.' * Now all these maladies, which our distressed naturalist bemoans with so much feeling, are often capital sources of picturesque beauty, both in the wild scenes of Nature and in artificial landscape. What is. more beautiful, for instance, on a rugged foreground, than an old tree with a liollow trunk ? or with a dead arm, a drooping hough, or a dying branch ? all which phrases I apprehend are nearly synonymous. ^ From the withered top, also, great use and beauty may result in the composition of landscape, when we wish to break the regularity of some continued line which we would not entirely hide. By the curtailed trunk I suppose Mr. Lawson means a tree whose principal stem has been shattered by winds, or some other accident, while the lower part of it is left in vigour. This is also * See Lawson's Orcliard. 'Gilpin's forest scenery.' 19 13 ' gilptn's forest scenery.' 21 SOUECHS 01' PICT PEE SQUENESS IN TKBES. 23 a beautiful circumstance, and its application equally useful in landscape. The withered top just breaks tlie lines of an eminence ! the cv/rtailed trunk discovers the whole ; while the lateral branches, which are vigorous and healthy in both, hide any part of the lower landscape which, wanting variety, is better veiled. For the use and beauty of the withered top and curtailed trunk we need only appeal to the works of Salvator Eosa, in many of which we find them of great use. Salvator had often occasion for an object on his foregrounds as large as the trunk of a tree, when the whole tree together in its full state of grandeur would have been an incum- brance to him. A young tree, or a bush, might probably have served his purpose with regard to composition ; but such dwarfs and striplings could not have preserved the dignity of his subject like the ruins of a noble tree. These splendid remnants of decaying grandeur speak to the imagination in a style of eloquence which the stripling cannot reach; they record the history of some storm, some blast of lightning, or other great event, which transfers its grand ideas to the landscape. 24 Gilpin's forest scenery. and, in the representation of elevated subjects, assists tlie sublime. ,/ Whether these maladies in trees ever produce beauty in adorned Nature, I much doubt. Kent * was hardy enough even to plant a withered tree ; but the error was too glaring for imitation. Objects in every mode of composition should harmonize ; and all we venture to assert, is, that these maladies are then only sources of beauty, either in the wild scenes of Nature or in artificial landscape, when they are the appendages of some particular mode of composition. The planting of a withered tree, though seldom, if ever, attempted by modern gardeners, would bo perfectly consistent in any portion of a wooded estate to which it was desired to give the aspect of a forest, provided the ground was of sufficient extent. But in such a case the size of the tree would need to be proportioned to the living trees surrounding it. It is^ in fact, a common practice to plant old tree stumps upon lawns, for the reception of ferns and mosses ; for a lawn, in such a case, may be said to represent a forest glade in which one may * William Kent, who is regarded as the founder of Englisli landscape gardening, was horn in Yorlcshire in 1684 and died in 1748.— Ed. SOUECES OP PICTUBESQUENESS IN TJBEES. 25 often see the graceful fronds of the flowerless plants ■waving from the rotten and curtailed boles of ancient giants of the wood. When, indeed, we strive to imitate Nature, we cannot too closely follow her teachings. — Ed. The last, and most beautiful, of tliose diseases wliicli Mr. Lawson ascribes to trees, is moss. Tliis, it is true, is one of Nature's minuti^, and, in painting, touclies not the great parts, composition and effects. Nor is it of use in mere drawing. But, in coloured landscape, it is surely a very beautiful t' object of imitation. The variety of mosses — the green, which tinges the trunk of the Beech ; the brimstone-coloured and black, which stain the Oak ; and the yellow, which is frequently found on the Elm and Ash, are among the most beautiful of those tints which, embellish, the bark of trees. I have often stood with admiration before an old forest Oak, examining the various tints which have enriched its furrowed stem. The genuine bark of an Oak is of an ash colour, though it is difficult to distinguish any part of it from the mosses that overspread it : for no Oak, I suppose, was ever without a greater or a less proportion of these picturesque appendages. The lower parts, 26 gilhn's foeest scenery. about the roots, are often possessed by that green, velvet moss, whicli in a still greater degree com- monly occupies the bole of the Beech, though the beauty and brilliancy of it lose much when in decay. As the trunk rises you see the brimstone colour taking possession in patches. Of this there are two principal kinds — a smooth sort, which spreads like a scurf over the bark, and a rougher sort, which hangs in little rich knots and fringes. I call it a brimstone hue, by way of general dis- tinction : but it sometimes inclines to an olive, and sometimes to a light green. Intermixed with these mosses you often find a species perfectly white. Before I was acquainted with it I have sometimes thought the tree whitewashed. Here and there a touch of it gives a lustre to the trunk, and has its effect : yet, on the whole, it is a nuisance ; for, as it generally begins to thrive when the other mosses begin to wither (as if the decaying bark were its proper nutriment), it is rarely ac- companied with any of the more beautiful species of its kind ; and, when thus unsupported, always disgusts. This white moss, by the way, is esteemed a certain mark of age; and, when it SOUECES OF PIOTUEESQUENJjJSS IN TREES. 27 prevails in any degree, is a clear indication tliat the vigour of tlie tree is declining. We find, also, anotlier species of moss, of a dark brown colour, inclining nearlyto black; another of an ashy colour, and another of a dingy yellow. We may observe, also, touches of red, and sometimes, but rarely, a bright yellow, which is like a gleam of sunshine ; and in many trees you will see one species growing upon another — the knotted, brimstone-coloured fringe clinging to a lighter species, or the black softening into red. Strictly speaking, many of these excrescences, which I have mentioned under the general name of mosses, should be distin- guished by other names. All those, particularly, which cling close to the bark of trees, and have a leprous, scabby appearance, are classed, I believe, by botanists, under the name of lichens : others are called liver-worts. But all these excrescences, under whatever names distinguished, add a great richness to trees; and when they are blended harmoniously, as is generally the case, the rough and furrowed trunk of an old Oak, adorned with these pleasing appendages, is an object which will long detain the picturesque eye. 2 28 GILPIN S FOREST SCBNEEY. But, besides the appearance of moss upon tlie trunhs of trees, it creeps among the branches, and sometimes takes possession, not only of the larger boughs, but even of the smaller spray. In winter this has often a fine effect, when the whole tree, turned into a beautiful piece of straw- coloured coral, appears against a dark wood, or some other background, which gives it relief. In a strong sunshine, too, it is beautiful, when the light, straw-coloured tints contrast with the shadows formed by the twisting of the boughs, which are sometime still further deepened by some of the darker mosses. Thus the maladies of trees are greatly sub- servient to the uses of the pencil. The foliage is the dress ; and these are the ornaments. Even the poet will sometimes deign to array his tree with these picturesque ornaments. I am always glad of his authority, when I can have it : and I have seen a poetical Oak garnished in a way that the painter might copy from. In general, how- ever, the poet is not, like the painter, uniform in his admiration of these pleasing appendages. If at one time he admires them with the painter, SOUEOBS OP PICTUB.ESQUENESS IN TEBES. 29 and ranks tliem among the picturesque beauties of Nature, at another he sides with . the wood- man, and brushes them away, Nay, I have known him conjure up some mighty agent, as guardian of his woods, who cries out, — ' From Jove I am tlie Power Of this fail- wood, and live in oaken bower. I nurse my sapliiis tall ; and cleanse their rind Prom vegetating filth of every kind. And all ray plants I save from nightly ill Of noisome winds, and blasting vapours chUL' Besides Mr. Lawson's catalogue of maladies we might enumerate others, which are equally the sources of beauty. The blasted tree has often a fine effect both in natural and in artificial landscape. In some scenes it is almost essential. When the dreary heath is spread before the eye, and ideas of wildness and desolation are re- quired, what more suitable accompaniment can be imagined than the blasted Oak — ragged, scathed, and leafless — shooting its peeled, white branches athwart the gathering blackness of some rising storm ? Thus the poet treats it — 30 gtlpin's forest scenery. ' As when heaven's fire Hath scathed the forest Oak or mountain Pine, With singed top its stately growth, though bare, Stands on the Masted heath.' Ivy is another miscHef incident to trees, whicli has a good effect. It gives great richness to an old trunk, both by its stem, which often winds round it in thick, hairy, irregular volumes, and by its leaf, which either decks the furrowed bark, or creeps among the branches, or hangs care- lessly from them. In all these circumstances it unites with the mosses, and other furniture of the tree, in adorning and enriching it. But when it gathers into a heavy body, which is often the case, it becomes rather a deformity. In summer, indeed, itsbushiness is lost in the foliage of the tree ; but in winter, naked branches make a disagreeable appearance staring from a thick hush. And yet, in autumn, I have seen a beautiful contrast between a bush of Ivy, which had com- pletely invested the head of a pollard Oak, and the dark-brown tint of the withered leaves, which still held possession of the branches. But this was a mere accidental effect ; for you may see many pollard Oaks with withered leaves, and 'GILPIN'S FOREST SCENERY.' 81 .i-' ' I J3 SOURCES OF PIOTUEESQUENESS IN TREES. 33 covered with Ivy, and yet not see the tints so happily arranged as to produce an effect. We have frequently seen the trunks of deciduous trees in winter densely covered with Ivy ; but we have never been able to regard such an appearance — even when the climbing evergreen had gathered into ' a heavy body ' — as a ' deformity.' Even Gilpin, it will be noticed, half apologizes for venturing so to regard it. By some accident the Ivy clusters may have assumed an unsightly form ; but, to our mind, the natural growth of this delight- ful plant is always beautiful : and the situations it assumes are — with regard to eveiy object in the forest around which it clings — always picturesque. — Ed. •(<,<' In the spring also we sometimes have a^ pleasing appearance of a similar kind. About the end of April, when the foliage of the Oak is just beginning to expand, its varied tints are often delightfully contrasted with the deep green of an Ivy bush which has overspread the body and larger hmbs of the tree : and the contrast has been still more beautiful when the limbs are covered, as we sometimes see them, with tufts of brimstone-coloured moss.* * See page 27, where Gilpin has abeady explained that iu the term 'moss' he includes lichens and liver-worts. — Ed. 34 Gilpin's forest sceneey. All tlaese plants are parasitical, as the botanist expressively calls tliem. The tribes of mosses, lichens, and liver-worts make no pretence to independence. They are absolute retainers. Not one of them gets his own livelihood, nor takes the least step towards it. The Ivy indeed is less dependent. He has a root of his own, and draws nourishment from the ground : biit his character is misrepresented, if his little feelers have not other purposes than merely that of showing an attachment to his potent neighbour. Shakespeare roundly asserts he makes a property of him : — ' Hg was Tlie Ivy, ■wliicli had hid my princely trunk, And suck'd my verdure out.' Gilpin's suggestion and Shakespeare's assumption are both, we think, correct, notwithstanding the opinion of Sir Dick Lauder, the first Editor of the ' Forest Scenery,' and of several modern botanists. We believe that the ' littlo feelers ' of the Ivy are veritable roots, and that, as such, they draw nourishment from the crevices — whether the crannies of rooks or walls, or the fissures in tree trunks — into which they insinuate themselves. In this o pinion we are supp orted_by_authorities of no less_ weight than Sir Joseph Hooker and Mr. Shirley Hibberd. The SOURCES OP PICftrilESQUBNESS IN TBEBS. 35 latter, in his delightful ' Monograph of the Ivy/ dis- cusses the subject at considerable length ; and, amongst other reasons for his belief, states the very conclusive fact that if the root of an Ivy that has climbed upon a wall or tree be cut off close to the ground, the plant continues to live and thrive !■. — Ed. Besides this parasitical tribe the painter ad- mires another class of humble plants, which live entirely on their own means ; yet, spreading out their little tendrils, beg the protection of the great ; whom if they encumber, as they certainly do in a degree, they enrich with a variety of beautiful flowers and scarlet berries. Many of these, though classed among weeds, have great beauty. Among them, the black and white Brionies are distinguished. The berries, also, of many of these little plants are variously coloured, in the difi'erent states of their growth, yellow, red, and orange. All these rich touches, how- ever small, produce their effect. Another ele- gant climber, called Traveller's joy, produces indeed no berries ; but its feathered seeds are ornamental. The wild Honeysuckle also comes within this class ; and though, in winding its 36 gilptn's forest scenery. spiral coil, it may compress the young tree too tightly, and, in some degree, injure its circula- tion, yet it fully compensates the injury by the beauty and fragrancy of its flowers : — ' With, clasping tendrils it invests the branch, Else unadorn'd, with many a gay festoon, And fragrant chaplet ; recompensing well The strength it borrows with the grace it lends.' Under warm suns, where Yines are the off- spring of Nature, nothing can be more beautiful than the forest tree, adorned with their twisting branches, hanging from bough to bough, and laden with fruit,— ' The clusters clear Half through the foliage seen,' In the road between Pisa and Florence, Dr. Smollet informs us, the country is often thus adorned. The Vines are not planted in rows, and propped with sticks, as in France and the county of Nice, but twine naturally around the hedge- row trees, which they almost cover with their foliage and fruit. Extending from tree to tree, they exhibit beautiful festoons of leaves, tendrils and swelling clusters, black and white, hanging SOURCES OP PICTUEESQUENBSS IN TEEES. 37 down from every bougli in the most luxm-iant and romantic abundance.* Among tlie most beautiful appendages of this hanging kind, which we have in England, is the Hop. In cultivation it is disagreeable : but, in its rude natural state, twisting carelessly round the branches of trees, I know not whether it is not as beautiful as the Vine. lbs leaf is similar ; and though the bunches of hoj), beautiful as they are, and fragrant, are not equal to the clusters of the Vine, yet it is a more accommodating plant, hangs more loosely, and is less extravagant in its growth. In artificial landscape indeed, where the sub- ject is sublime, these appendages are of little value. Such trifling ornaments the scene rejects; The rough Oak, in the dignity of its simple form, adorns the foreground better. But in festive, or Bacchanalian subjects (if such subjects are ever proper for description) when the sportive nymphs and satyrs take their repose at noon, or gambol in the shade of evening, nothing can more beau- tifully adorn their retreat, or more characteris- tically mark it, than these pendent plants, parti- * SmoUet's Travels, vol. ii. page 46. 38 Gilpin's forest scenery. cularly the mantling Vine, hanging, as I have here described it, in rich festoons from bough to bough. The rooting also of trees is a circumstance on which their beauty greatly depends. I know not whether it is reckoned among the maladies of a tree, to heave his root above the soil. Old trees often do. But whether it be a malady or not, it is certainly very picturesque. The more they raise the ground around them, and the greater number of radical knobs they heave up, the firmer they seem to establish their footing upon the earth, and the more dignity they assume. An old tree rising tamely from a smooth surface (as we often find it covered with earth in artificial ground), loses half its effect: it does not appear as the lord of the soil, but to be stuck into it, and would have a still worse effect on canvas than it has in Nature. Pliny gives us an account of the roots of certain ancient Oaks in the Hercynian forest, which appears rather extravagant, but which, I can easily conceive, may be true. These roots, he says, heave the ground upwards, in many places, into lofty mounts ; and in other parts, where the earth does not follow them, the bare roots rise as SOUECES OP PIC'i'URESQUENESS IN TEEES. 39 liigli as the lower brauclies, and, twisting round, form, in many places, portals so wide, that a man and horse may ride upright through them.* — This indeed is somewhat higher than picturesque beauty requires ; it borders rather on the fantastic. In general, however, the higher the roots are, the more picturesque they appear. To the adventitious beauties of trees, we may add their susceptibility of motion, which is capable, at least, of being a considerable source of beauty. The waving heads of some, and the undulation of others, give a continual variety to their forms. In l/ Nature the motion of trees is certainly a circum- stance of great beauty. Shakespeare formerly made the observation : — ' Things in motion sooner catch the eye, Than what stirs not.' To the painter, also, the moving tree affords often a piece of useful machinery, when he wishes to express the agitation of air. In this light it may even be considered as an objection to trees of [ firmer branches, as the Oak, that their resistance to every breath of air deprives them, at least, of one source of beauty, and subjects them to be * l:fat. Hist., Book xvi. chap. 40 Gilpin's forest scenery. sooner gotten by heart, if I may so plirase it, than otlier trees ; whicli, yielding to tlie pressure, are every instant assuming new modifications. From the motion of the tree, we have also the pleasing circumstance of the cliequered shade, formed under it by the dancing of the sunbeams among its playing leaves. This circumstance, though not so much calculated for picturesque use (as its beauty arises chiefly from its motion), is yet very amusing in nature ; and may also be intro- duced in painting, when the tree is at rest. But it is one of those circumstances, which requires a very artful pencil. In its very nature it opposes the grand principle of massing light and shade. However, if it be brought in properly, and not suffered to glare, it may have its beauty. But, whatever becomes of this circumstance in painting, it is very capable of being pleasingly wrought up in poetry. ' The chequer'd eartli seems restless as a flood Bruslx'd by the winds. So sportive is tlic light Shot through the houghs ; it dances, as they dance, Shadow and sunshine intermingling quick, And dark'ning, and enlightening (as the leaves Play wanton) every part.' SBOTION IV. DESCRIPTIVE ENUMERATION OP TEBBS. ;/AVING thus examined trees in a general view, I shall now particu- larize and endeavour to explain tlie beauties and defects of their several hinds, as they regard land- scape. I shall first consider them as individuals, and afterwards in com- jposition. Trees range under two general heads — deciduous and ever-green. In this order I shall take them, confining my remarks to those, chiefly of both kinds, which are of English growth, whether native or naturalized. Among deciduous trees, the Oah presents itself first. It is a happiness to the lovers of the 42 Gilpin's forest scenery. picturesque that this noble plant is as useful as it is beautiful. From the utility of the Oak they derive this advantage, that it is everywhere found. In the choice, indeed, of its soil it is rather delicate. For though it is rather undistinguishing during its early growth, while its horizontal fibres straggle about the surface of the earth, yet, when its tap-root begins to enter the depths of the soil, perhaps no tree is nicer in its discriminations. If its constitution be not suited here, it may multiply its progeny indeed and produce a thriving copse ; but the puny race will never rise to lordly dignity in the forest, nor furnish navies to command the ocean.* * How quickly the Oak tegetates in a soil it likes, may be seen from the following instance : — An acorn was sown at Beckett, the seat of Lord Barrington, on the day of his birth in 1717. Tn IN'ovemher, 1790, it contained 95 feet of timber, which at 2s, per foot would sell for 91. 10s. The top was valued at about 11. 15s. The girth, at 5 feet from the ground, was about half an inch more than 8 feet. The increase of girth, in the two last years, was 4 inches and a half. It grows in rich land, worth 11. 5s. an acre. [The present Viscount Barrington informs us that this tree, known as the ' King's Oak,' is still living, and has ' a fine straight stem : ' and that its girth, as ascertained by the Eev. G. W. Murray, Vicar of Shrivenham, was, on May 27, 1879, 13 feet at 5 feet from the ground.— Eo.] ■DESCKIPTIVE ENUMERATION OP TREES, 43 The particular, and most valued, qualities of the Oak are hardness and toughness. Shakespeare uses two epithets to express these qualities, which are, per-haps, stronger than any we can find. ' Thou rather with thy sharp and sulph'rous bolt Split'sfc the unwedgeahle, and gnarled Oak, Than the soft Myrtle.' Many ]dnds of wood are harder, as Box and Ebony ; many kinds are tougher, as Yew and Ash ; but it is supposed that no species of wood, at least no species of timber, is possessed of both these qualities together in so gi'eat a degree as British Oak. Almost all arts and manufactures are indebted to it ; but, in ship-building and bear- ing burdens, its elasticity and strength are applied to most advantage. I mention these mechanic uses only because some of its chief beauties are connected with them. Thus it is not the erect, stately tree that is always the most useful in ship- building; but more often the crooked one, form- ing short turns and elbows, which the shipwrights and carpenters commonly call hnee-timber. This, too, is generally the most picturesque. Nor is it the straight, tall stem, whose fibres run in parallel D 44 Gilpin's li-oBEST scenery. lines, that is the most useful in bearing burdens : but that whose sinews are twisted and spirally combined. This too is the most picturesque. Trees under these circumstances generally take the most pleasing forms. Now the Oak, perhaps, acquires these different modes of growth from the different strata through which it passes. In deep, rich soils, where the root meets no obstruction, the stem, we suppose, grows stately and erect : but when the root meets with a rocky stratum, a hard and gravelly bed, or any other difficulty, through which it is obliged, in a zigzag course, to pick its way, and struggle for a passage, the sympathetic stem, feeling every motion, pursues the same indirect course above, which the root does below : and thus the sturdy plant, through the means of these subterraneous encounters and hardy conflicts, assumes form and character, and becomes, in a due course of cen- turies, a picturesque tree. Virgil has given us the picture of an Oak, in which its principal characteristics are well touched. ' Esculus imprimis, quae, quantum vertice ad auras j'Ethereas, tantum radice in Tartara tendit DESCRIPTIVE ENUMERATION 01' TREES. 45 Ergo noil hiemes illam, non flabra, iieque imbres Convelluiifc : inimota mauet, multosque per annos ]\Iulta virCim volvens durando secula viucit. Turn fortes late ramos, et brachia tendens Hue illuo, media ipsa ingentem sustiiiet umbram.' * SubjoJuecl is Gilpin's translation of Virgil's lines on the Oak. The assumption in the translation that by the word Esculus a species of Oak is intended, is, we think, fully justified — as Gilpin shows — by the description itself. The word is derived from esca, food, and has reference to the edible fruit of the Oak. Pliny uses the word in the same sense; and though some persons have considered that the Beech, which has, of course, also an edible nut, was intended, there can be little doubt that both of the classical authors really referred to the Italian Oak, the Quercus esculus of botanical nomenclature. — Ed. ' Deep in the bowels of the earth, the Oak, With hardy effort, drives his vigorous root, And rears his head as high. No winter storm Can touch a trunk so founded. Years revolve ; The puny generations of mankind, Each after each, expire ; yet firm he stands. And stretching, far and wide, his sinewy arms, With comprehensive span and sweep of shade, O'erspreads a district.' I sliall not enter into a criticism oa the word esculus, wliicli cannot, on any good authority, I * Georg. ii. 290. D 2 46 gilpin's forest scenbhy. think, signify the Beech; and Pliny's authority,* may he decisive in favour of its being the Oak. But were it not so, "Virgil's description is so strongly marked with the character of the Oak, that it seems to put the matter out of dispute ; and I introduce the quotation merely to bring together, in few words, the most obvious qualities of this most noble plant, in one point of view. The first characteristic which Yirgil mentions is its firmness, or the power and strength with which it takes hold of the ground, driving its * Pliny, speaking of the different kinds of trees -which were dedicated to different deities, tells us, ' Jovi esculus, Apolloni lanrus,' &c. Lib. xii. c. 1. Now we know that the Oak was Jupiter's tree. On this point I need only quote Phtedrus. ' Olim quas vellent esse in tutela sua Divi legerunt arbores ; quercus Joviy Et myrtus Veneri placuit.' Pliny also in another place. Lib. xvi. c. G, plainly distinguishes between the fagus and the esculus. ' Pagi glans triangula cute includitur. Folium tenue, populo simile, celerrime flavescens,' &c. ' Glandem, quse proprie intelligitur, ferunt robur, quercus, esculus. Continetur hispido calyce. Folia, sinuosa lateribus ; nee, cum cadunt, flavesoentia, tit fagi. Glans optima in querou, et grandissima; mox esculo.' From this quotation it is plain that Pliny considers the esculus as a variety of the Oalc. DESOllIPTIVE BNUMEEATION OF TREES. 47 tap-root, in tlie poet's language, even into the infernal regions. No tree resists the blast so steadily. We seldom see the Oak, like other trees, take a twisted form from the winds.* Media ipsa ingentem sustinet umhram : that is, I appre- hend, it preserves its balance; which we have seen is one of the grand picturesque beauties of every tree. The Oak, no doubt, like other trees, shrinks from the sea air. But this indicates no weakness. ("The sea air, like a pestilential disease, attacks the strongest constitutions. It acts by injuring the early bud, which destroys the spray, and, of course, the branch.N A second characteristic of the Oak, of which Virgil takes notice, is the stoiUness of its limbs ; its fortes ramos. We know no tree, except perhaps the Cedar of Lebanon, so remarkable in * J\lr. "Wise, in his valuable work on the Nevf Torest (London, Smith, Elder, and Co., 1862) refers to the extraordinary effect of the Channel winds on the Oaks on the southern side of the Forest, where he says (page 10) that the trees are ' strained and tortured as they are nowhere else in England.' He adds in a footnote : ' In the lower part of the forest, near the Channel, the effect is quite painful, all the trees being strained away from the sea, like Tennyson's thorn.' — Ed. 48 Gilpin's forest scbneey. this respect. The limbs of most trees spring from. the trunk. In the Oak they may be rather said to divide from it ; for they generally carry with them a great share of the substance of the stem. You often scarcely know which is stem and which is branch; and, towards the top, the stem is entirely lost in the branches. This gives particular pro- priety to the epithet fortes in characterizing the branches of the Oak ; and hence its sinewy elbows are of such peculiar use in ship-building. Who- ever, therefore, does not mark the fortes ramos of the Oak, might as well, in painting a Hercules, omit his muscles. But I speak only of the hardy veterans of the forest. In the effeminate nurslings of the grove we have not this appearance. There, the tree is all stem, drawn up into height. When we characterize a tree, we consider it in its natural state, insulated, and without any lateral pressure. In a forest, trees natm-ally grow in that manner. The seniors depress all the juniors that attempt to rise near them. But in a planted grove all grow up together ; and none can exert any power over another. ^ The nest characteristic of the Oak taken notice DBSOBIPTIVE ENUMEEATION OF TEBES. 49 of by tlie poet; is tlie kulsting of its brandies : bracMa tendit hue illuo. Examine the Ash, the Elm; the Beech, or almost any other tree, and you may observe in what direct and straight Knes the branches in each shoot from the stem. Whereas the limbs of an Oak are continually twisting, hucy illuc, in various contortions ; and, like the course of a river, sport and play ia every possible direc- tion — sometimes in long reaches, and sometimes in shorter elbows. There is . not a characteristic more peculiar to the Oak than this. Another peculiai-ity, of which Virgil takes notice in the Oak, is its expansive spread. ' Media ipsa ingentem sustiuet unibram.' By ingentem mnhraon, I do not suppose the poet means a thick, compact, close-woven fohage, like that of the Beech, which the Oak seldom exhibits. In general, except in very luxuriant soils, the foliage of the Oak is light and thin. I should therefore suppose that, instead of a close-woven shade, the poet means an extended one,- which, indeed, is impHed in the expression, just before used, ramos late tendens. This indeed is a just 50 Gilpin's forest scenery. characteristic of tlie Oak ; for its boughs, however twisted, continually take a horizonal direction, and overshadow a large space of ground. Indeed, where it is fond of its situation, and has room to spread, it extends itself beyond a,ny other tree ; and, hke a monarch, takes possession of the soil. The last Virgilian characteristic of the Oak is its longevity, which extends, I suppose, beyond that of any other tree. 'Multa virum volvens diirando secula vincit.' Perhaps the Yew may be an exception. I mention the circumstance of its longevity as it is of a nature singularly picturesque. It is through age that the Oak acquires its greatest beauty, which often continues increasing even into decay, if any proportion exist betv/een the stem and the branches- When the branches rot away, and the forlorn trunk is left alone, the tree is in its decreptitude — the last stage of life — and all beauty is gone. To such an Oak Lucan compares Pompey in his declining state. DESCRIPTIVE ENUMERATION OE TREES. 51 ' Stat magni nominis umbra. Qualis fi'ugifero quercus sublimis in agro Exuvias veteres populi, sacrataque gestans Dona ducum ; uec jam validis radicibus hiBrens, Pondere fixa suo est, nudosque per aera ramos Effundens, trunco, non frondibus efficit umbram.' Spenser has given us the same picture, but with a few more circumstances. ' A huge Oak, dry and dead. Still clad with reliques of its trophies old, Lifting to Heaven its aged, hoary head, Whose foot on earth hath got but feeble hold, And half disbowell'd stands above the ground. With vi^reathed roots, and naked arms, And trunk all rotten, and unsound.' I have dwelt the longer on the Oak, as it is, con- fessedly, both the most picturesque tree in itself, and the most accommodating in composition. It refuses no subject either in natural or in artificial landscape. It is suited to the grandest, and may with propriety be introduced into the most pastoral. It adds new dignity to the ruined tower and Gothic arch : by stretching its wild, moss-grown branches athwart their ivied walls it gives them a kind of majesty coeval with itself. At the same time its propriety is still preserved, if it throw its 52 Gilpin's foeest sceneey. arms over the purling brook, ortlie mantling pool, where it beliolds ' Its reverend image in the expanse below.' Milton introduces it happily even in the lowest scene. ' Hard by, a cottage cliimney smokes Erom botween two aged Oaks.' After the Oalc, let us examine the Ash. This tree, in point of utility, is little inferior to the Oak. Its uses are infinite. To the ashen spear the heroes of antiquity were indebted for half their prowess. In the arts of peace as well as of war, in architectiu-e, tillage, and manufactures, the Ash objects to business of no kind : while even its very refuse spars are accounted the best fuel in the forest.* The ashen billet produces a steady, bright, lambent flame ; and, as Mr. Evelyn tells us, may be reckoned among the aKanva fvXa, fuel with little smoke. I have sometimes heard, the Oak called the Hercules of the forest; and the Ash, the Yenus. * In some parts of the continent of Europe the ashen billet sells for one half more than any other wood, except Beech. DESCEIPTIVB ENUMBEATION OP TEEES. 53 Tlie comparison is not amiss : for the Oak joins tlie idea of strength to beauty, while the Ash rather joins the ideas of beauty and elegance. Virgil marks the character of the Ash, as particu- larly beautiful. ' Fraxinus in sylvis pulcbevrima — ' * The Ash generally carries its principal stem higher than the Oak, and rises in an easy, flow- ing line. But its chief beauty consists in the lightness of its whole appearance. Its branches at first keep close to the trunk, and form acute angles with it : but, as they begin to lengthen, they generally take an easy sweep ; and, the loose- ness of the leaves corresponding with the light- ness of the spray, the whole forms an elegant depending foliage. Nothing can have a better efiect than an old Ash hanging from the corner . of a wood, and bringing off the heaviness of the other foliage with its loose pendent branches. And yet, in some soils, I have seen the Ash lose much of its beauty in the decline of age. Its foliage becomes rare, and meagre; and its * Tlie Asli is tlie most beautiful of all the trees iu the wood. 54 Gilpin's poeest scenery. brandies, instead of hanging loosely, often start away in disagreeable forms. In short, the Ash often loses that grandeur and beauty in old age, ■which the generality of trees, and particularly the Oak, preserve till a late period of their existence. The Ash also, on another account, falls under the displeasure of the picturesque eye. Its leaf is much tenderer than that of the Oak, and sooner receives impression from the winds, and frost. Instead of contributing its tint, therefore, in the wane of the year, among the many-coloured offspring of the woods, it shrinks from the blast, drops its leaf, and in each scene where it pre- dominates, leaves wide blanks of desolated boughs, amidst foliage yet fresh and verdant. Before its decay, we sometimes see its leaf tinged with a fine yellow, well contrasted with the neighbour- ing greens. But this is one of Nature's casual beauties. Much oftener its leaf decays in a dark, muddy, unpleasing tint. And yet sometimes, notwithstanding tliis early loss of its foliage, we see the Ash, in a sheltered situation, when the rains have been abundant and the season mild, retain its green (a light pleasant green), when DESOEIPTIVE ENUMEEATION OF TREES. 55 the Oak and the Elm, in its neighbourhood, have put on their autumnal attire. Another disagreeable circumstance attends the Ash, which is indeed its misfortune rather than its fault. Its leaf and rind are nutritive to deer, and much used in browsing them in summer. The keepers of the forest, therefore, seek out all the Ash trees they can find, which are for this purpose mangled and deformed. One thing more I should mention with regard to the Ash, as it is of a picturesque nature, and that is the beauty of its roots, which are often finely veined and will take a good polish. Dr. Plot, in his Natural History of Oxfordshire,* speaks of certain knotty excrescences in the Ash, called the hrusca and mollusca, which, when cut and polished, are very beautiful. He particularly mentions a dining-table, made of the latter, which represents the exact figure of a fish. "With regard to these exact figures of animals, and other objects, which we meet with both in stone and wood, I cannot say I should value * Chap. vi. sec. 80. 56 gflpim's forest scenery. them mucli as objects of beauty. They may be whimsical and curious ; but, in my opinion, the roots and veins of wood and stone, are much more beautiful when they are wreathed in different fantastic forms, than when they seem to aim at any exact figures. In the former case they leave the imagination at liberty to play among them, which is always a pleasing exercise to it : in the latter, they are, at best, awkward and unnatural likenesses, which often disgust the picturesque eye, and always please it less than following its own fancy and picking out re- semblances of its own. Another curiosity in the Ash, which is likewise of the picturesque kind, is a sort of excrescence, which is sometimes found on a leading branch, called a wreathed fascia. The fasciated branch is twisted and curled in a very beautiful form ; which form it probably takes, as Dr. Plot sup- poses, from too quick an ascent of the sap :* or, as other naturalists imagine, from the puncture of some insect in the tender twig, Avhich diverts * See Nat. Hist. Oxf., ch. vi. sec. 82. , DESCEIPTIVH ENUMEEATION OF TEBES. 57 the sap from its usual channel and makes the branch monstrous. The wreathed fascia is some- times found in other wood, in the Willow par- ticularly, and in the Holly; but most commonly it is an excrescence of the Ash. I have a fas- ciated branch of Ash, found in the woods of Beaulieu, in New Forest, which is most elegantly twisted in the form of a crozier, I have seen a Holly, also, twisted like a ram's horn. "We have this appearance sometimes in Asparagus. It is not uncommon for the seeds of trees, and particularly of the Ash, to seize on some faulty part of a neighbouring trunk, and there strike root. Dr. Plot * speaks of a piece of vegetable violence of this kind, which is rather extraordi- nary. An Ash-key, rooting itself on a decayed Willow, and finding, as it increased, a deficiency of nourishment in the mother plant, began to insinuate its fibres, by degrees, through the trunk of the Willow into the earth. There receiving an additional recruit, it began to thrive and ex- pand itself to such a size that it burst the * See Nat. Hist. Oxf., oh. vi. sec. 79. 58 Gilpin's forest scenery. Willow in pieces, whicli fell away from it on every side ; -and what was before tlie root of the Ash, being now exposed to the air, became the solid trunk of a vigorous tree. As a beautiful variety of the tree we are now examining, the Mountain Ash, often called the Boan Tree,- should be mentioned. Its name de- notes the place of its usual residence. Inured to cold and rugged scenes, it is the hardy in- habitant of the northern parts of this island. Sometimes it is found in softer climes : but there it generally discovers, by its stunted growth, that it does not occupy the situation it loves. In ancient days, when superstition held that place in society which dissipation and impiety now hold, the Mountain Ash was considered as an object of great veneration. Often, at this day, a stump of it is found in some old burying-place ; or near the circle of a Druid temple whose rites it formerly invested with its sacred shade. Its chief merit now consists in being the ornament of landscape. In the Scottish Highlands it be- comes a considerable tree. There, on some rocky mountain covered with dark Pines and waving DBSCEIPTIVE ENUMEEATION OF TEEBS. 69 Birch which cast a solemn gloom over the lake below, a few Mountain Ashes joining in a clump, and mixing with them, have a fine effect. In summer, the light green tint of their foliage, and in autumn, the glowing berries which hang clustering upon them, contrast beautifully with the deeper green of the Pines : and, if they are happily blended, and not in too large a propor- tion, they add some of the most picturesque furniture with which the sides of those rugged mountains are invested. The Mouu taia Ash [Pyrios aucuparia) is not, as Gilpin supposes, a variety of the Common Ash {Fraxinus excel- sior), but a tree ■which belongs to a different genus, being, in fact, as its generic name Pyrus indicates, a relation of the Pear and the Apple. Its common name has been suggested by the general resemblance borne by its leaves to those of the Ash, and by the fact that it grows in mountainous districts. — Ed. After the Oak and Ash, we examine the Elm. The Oak and the Ash have each a distinct character. The massy form of the one, dividing into abrupt, twisting, irregular limbs — yet compact in its foliage — and the easy sweep of the other, 60 Gilpin's forest soenert. tlie simplicity of its brandies and the looseness of its hanging leaves, characterize both these trees with so much precision, that, at any distance at which the eye can distinguish the form, it may also distinguish the difference. The Elm has not so distinct a character. It partakes so much of the Oak that, when it is rough and old, it may easily, at a little distance, be mistaken for one ; though the Oak, I mean such an Oak as is strongly mai-ked with its peculiar character, can never be mistaken for the Elm. This is certainly a defect in the Elm; for strong characters are a great source of picturesque beauty. This defect, however, appears chiefly in the skeleton of the Elm. In full foliage its character is better marked. No tree is better adapted to I receive grand masses of light. In this respect it is superior, not only to the Oak and the Ash, but perhaps to every other tree. Nor is its foliage, , shadowing as it is, of the heavy kind. Its leaves are small, and this gives it a natural lightness ; it commonly hangs loosely, and is, in general, very picturesque. The Elm naturally grows upright, and, when it DESOillPTIVE ENUMERATION OF TREES. 61 meets witli a soil it loves, rises liiglier than the generality of trees ; and, after it has assumed the dignity and hoary roughness of age, few of its forest brethren (though, properly speaking, it is not a forester) excel it in grandeur and beauty. The Elm is the first tree that salutes the early spring with its light and cheerful green — a tint which contrasts agreeably with the Oak, whose early leaf has generally more of the olive cast. We see them sometimes in fine harmony together about the end of April and the beginning of May. We often, also, see the Elm planted with the Scotch Fir. In the spring its light green is very discordant with the gloomy hue of its companion ; but as the year advances the Elm-leaf takes a darker tint and unites in harmony with the Fir. In autumn also the yellow leaf of the Elm mixes as kindly \vith the orange of the Beech, the ochre of the Oak, and many of the other fading hues of the wood. A species of this tree called the Wych Elm, is perhaps generally more picturesque than the com- mon sort, at least on a foreground, as it hangs more negligently ; though, at the same time, with E 2 62 Gilpin's forest scenery. this negligence it loses in a good degree that happy surface for catching masses of light which we admire in the common Elm, and which adapts it better to a distance. We observe, also, when we see this tree in company with the common Elm, that its bark is somewhat of a lighter hue. The AYych Elm is a native of Scotland, where it is found not only in the plains and valleys of the Lowlands, but is hardy enough to climb the steeps and flourish in the remotest Highlands, though it does not attain, in those climates, the size which it attains in England. Naturalists suppose the "Wych Elm to be the only species of this tree which is indigenous to our island. There is another variety also of this tree called the Weeping Elm. Whether its timber is less useful, or it is propagated with greater difficulty, . I know not, but I have rarely met with it. The finest of this species I have seen, grow in St. John's walks at Cambridge. An eye accustomed to the tree will easily perceive that its branches are more pensile, and its leaves of smaller dimensions, than those of the common Elm. We have made particular inquiry as to the trees still DESCRIPTIVE ENUMERATION OE TREES. 63 growing in St. John^s walks at Cambridge, and we are indebted especially to the courtesy of Mr. B. H. Sanders, Dr. Bateson, tbe Master of St. John's College, and other gentlemen for investigating the subject. We learn that several of the oldest trees in St. John's walks have lately been blown down ; but there are other fine old Elms still standing, which are, Mr. Sanders believes, actual remnants of those referred to by Gilpin. — Ed. An old Elm, wliicli grew formei^ly in the grove at Magdalen College in Oxford, was by some accident disbarked entirely round. A malady of tbis kind is generally reckoned fatal to all tbe vegetable race. But tbis tree flourisbed after it as well as any tree in tbe grove. Tbe probable reasons of tbis uncommon appearance are given us by tbe learned autbor of tbe Natural History of Oxfordsbire in a long pbilosopbical inquiry wbicb may be found in tbe 166tb page of tbat work. I bave beard, also, but . I know not on wbat autbority, of another disbarked Elm growing at tbis time vigorously at Kensington. Tbe Oak, tbe Ash, and tbe Elm are commonly dio-nified, in our English woods, as a distinct class, by the title of timber trees. But tbe picturesque eye scoi-ns the narrow conceptions of a timber- 64 Gilpin's torbst scenery. merchant, and, witli equal complacency, takes in tlie wliole offspring of tlie wood ; though, it must be owned, the three species already characterized are both the most useful and the most picturesque. We esteem it fortunate, when the idea of licturesque beauty coincides with that of utility, s the two ideas are often at variance. After timber trees, the Beech deserves our notice. Some, indeed, rank the Beech among timber trees ; but, I believe, in general it does not find that respect, as its wood is of a soft, spongy nature, sappy and alluring to the worm. And yet I have heard that it has lately been found to answer as well as Elm in forming the keels, stems and stern-posts of the largest ships. The wood of the Beech has advanced in general estima- tion since Gilpin's timej and is now largely used, especially for the manufacture of articles of furniture. Loudon re- marks that the durability of its vrood is said to be increased by steeping it in water ; and ' according to some, by dis- barking the tree while standing.' He adds, ' In England, at the present time, the Beech is principally employed in making bedsteads and chairs ; and it is also in great de- mand for panels for cai-riages, and for various purposes in joinery, cabinet-making, and turnery.' — Ed. DBSORIPTIVE ENUMERATION OF TREES. 65 In point of picturesque beauty I am not inclined to rank tlie Beech much higher than in point of utility. Its skeleton, compared with that of the trees we have just examined, is very deficient. Its trunk, we allow, is often highly picturesque. It is studded with bold knobs and projections, and has, sometimes, a sort of irregular fluting about it, which is very characteristic. It has another peculiarity, also, which is sometimes pleasing — that of a number of stems arising from the root. The bark, too, wears often a pleasant hue. It is naturally of a dingy olive ; but it is always over- spread, in patches, with a variety of mosses and lichens, which are commonly of a lighter tint in the upper parts, a,nd of a deep velvet-green towards the root. Its smoothness, also, contrasts agreeably with these rougher appendages. No bark tempts the lover so much to make it the depository of his mistress's name. It conveys a happy emblem — ' Crescent illoB ; crescetis amores.' * But, having praised the trunk, we can praise no * As the letters of our names increase on the Lark, so shall our love. 66 Gilpin's i-'oubst scenery. other part of tlie skeleton. The branclies are fantastically -^Yreatliedand disproportioned, twining a-wkwardly among eacli other, and running often into long, unvaried lines, without any of that strength and firmness which we admire in the Oak, or of that easy simplicity which pleases in the Ash; in short, we rarely see a Beech well ramified. In full leaf it is equally unpleasing; it has the appearance of an overgrown bush. Virgil indeed was right in choosing the Beech for its shade. No tree forms so complete a roof. If you wish either for shade or shelter, you will find it best ' Patnlte sub tegmine fagi.' * This bushiness gives a great heaviness to the tree, which is always a deformity. What lightness it has, disgusts. You will sometimes see a light branch issuing from a heavy mass; and, though such -pendent branches are often beautiful in them- selves, they are seldom in harmony with the tree. They distinguish, however, its character, which will be seen best by comparing it with the Elm. * Under the shelter of a spreading Beech. DESCEIl-'TIVE ENUMEEATION OF TEBES. 67 The Elm forms a rounder, the Beech a more pointed foliage. But the former is ahvays in harmony with itself. On the whole, the massy, full-grown, luxuriant Beech is rather a displeasing tree. It is made up of littleness, seldom exhibiting those tufted cups, or hollow, dark recesses, which dispart the several grand branches of the more beautiful kinds of trees. Sometimes, however, we see in Beeches of happy composition, the foliage falling in large flakes, or layers, between which the shadows have a forcible effect when the tree is strongly illumined. Contrary to the general nature of trees, the Beech is most pleasing in its juvenile state, as it has not yet acquired that heaviness which is its most faulty distinction. A light, airy, young Beech with its spiry branches, hanging, as I have just described them, in easy forms, is often beau- tiful. I have seen also the forest Beech, in a dry, hungry soil, preserve the lightness of youth in the matui-ity of age. After all, however, we mean not to repudiate even the heavy, luxuriant Beech in picturesque 68 Gilpin's foeest scenery. compositioi] . It has sometimes its beauty and oftener its use. In distance it preserves the depth of the forest ; * and even on the spot, in contrast, it is frequently a choice accompaniment. In the corner of a landscape, when we want a thick heavy tree, or part of one at least — which is often necessary — nothing answers onr purpose like the Beech. But at present we are not con- sidering the Beech in composition, but only as an individual, and in this light it is in which we chiefly conceive it as an object of disapprobation. We should not conclude our remarks on the Beech without mentioning its autumnal hues. In this respect it is often beautiful. Sometimes it is dressed in modest brown, but generally in glowing orange : and, in both dresses, its harmony with the grove is pleasing. About the end of September, when the leaf begins to change, it makes a happy contrast with the Oak, whose foliage is yet verdant. Some of the finest oppo- sitions of tint, which perhaps the forest can * We call the forest deep, wlieii we cannot see tlirougli it ; so that, at a distance, a thin wood of Beeches will have the effect of a lar^e one. DESCRIPTIVE BNUMEEATION OF TEEES. 69 furnish, arise from the union of Oak and Beech. We often see a wonderful effect from this com- bination. And yet, accommodating as its leaf is in landscape, on handling it feels as if it were fabricated with metallic rigour. In its autumnal state it almost crackles : — ' Leni crepitabat bractea vento.' * For this reason, I suppose, as its rigour gives it an elastic quality, the common people in France and Switzerland use it for their beds. I have dwelt the longer on the Beech as, not- withstanding my severity, it is a tree of pic- turesque fame ; and I did not choose to condemn without giving my reasons. It has acquired its reputation, I suppose, chiefly from its having a peculiar character ; and this, with all its defects, it certainly Jias. I may add, also, that if objects receive merit from their associated, as well as from their intrinsic qualities, the dry soil and salubrious air in which the Beech generally flourishes, give it a high degree of estimation. * The lidit metal crackled in tlie wind. 70 Gilpin's foeest scenery. We cannot avoid the conviction that^ for some reason, our Author entertained a prejudice against the Beech, and such a feeling is strange in so keen a lover of Nature. We have elsewhere expressed our own opinion of this de- lightful tree ; and it may not, perhaps, be inappropriate if in this place we make from that opinion the following quotation : — ' In the largest of our woodland Beech growths the striking and impressive character of the Tree can, of course, he most effectively recognized. The straight pillared stem, smooth and grey, rises with lofty symmetry, sometimes in a single column, sometimes in double columns, and, far up aloft, spreads out against the sky a canopy of graceful foliage. The beautiful and impressive character of the Tree is best seen, however, in a Beech wood ; for the Beech allows no rivals, and even underwood and turf are banished from the shade of its branches. Looking up, then, in a great Beech wood from the withered leaves, which are strewn in profusion on the ground, giving it a character of lifelessness, and letting the eye wander amidst the forest of symmetrical trunks carried up aloft with surpassing grace and beauty until they spread into the heaven of leafiness above, one is strangely moved by the spectacle ; for the wealth of verdure, burnished into silvery gloss by the play of sun- light, tells us of the unseen but patent forces which beneath our feet, where the soil is embrowned by dead leaves, are moving silently upwards through the stately columns, carrying to their summits the life and vigour which give symmetry to stem and branch, grace to clus- DBSOEIPTIVE BNUMBEATION 01 TEEES. 71 tering bougli and twig, and tlie beauty of colour to tlie moving forms of glossy leaves.'' * — Ed. Nearly allied to the Beecli in a picturesque light, is tlie Hornbeara. It grows like it, when it is suflfered to grow ; but it is generally seen only in clipped hedges, where it is very obedient to the knife, and, with a little care, will never presume to appear out of form. Its wood is white, tough, and flexible. The deciduous trees, which I have described, hold certainly the first rank. I shall, however, touch on a few others, which, though neither so beautiful nor so characteristic, are, however, worth the notice of the picturesque eye. Among these the first place is due to two noble trees of the same kind, both naturalized in England — though from different extremes of the globe — the Occidental and the Oriental Plane. The Occidental Plane is a native of America ; but has long been known in England, where it attains a considerable growth, though inferior, no doubt, to what it attains in its native soil. Its * Our Woodland Trees. 72 Gilpin's foeest soeneey. stem is very picturesque. It is smooth, and of a light ash., colour, and lias the propei'ty of throw- ing off its bark in scales — thus naturally cleansing' itself, at least its larger boughs, from moss, and other parasitical incumbrances. This would be no recommendation of it in a picturesque light, if the removal of these incumbrances did not sub- stitute as great a beauty in their room. These scales are very irregular, falling off sometimes in one part and sometimes in another : and as the under-bark, immediately after its excoriation, is of a lighter hue than the upper, it offers to the pencil those smart touches which have so much effect in painting. These flakes, however, would be more beautiful, if they fell off more in semi- circular laminas. They would correspond and unite better with the circular form of the bole. No tree forms a more pleasing shade than the Occidental Plane. It is full-leafed, and its leaf is large, smooth, of a fine texture, and seldom injured by insects. Its lower branches, shooting horizontally, soon take a direction to the ground ; and the spray seems more sedulous than that of any tree we have, by twisting about in various DBSCEIPTIVE ENUMERATION 01' TEEBS. 73 forms, to fill up every little vacuity -with, shade. At tlie same time, it must be owned, the twisting of its branclies is a disadvantage to this tree, as we have just observed it is to the Beech, when it is stripped of its leaves, and reduced to a skeleton. It has not the natural appearance, which the spray of the Oak and that of many other trees discovers in winter : though I have heard that in America, where it grows naturally, it grows more freely, and does not exhibit that twisting in its branches. Its foliage, from the largeness of the leaf and the mode of its growth, does not make the most picturesque appearance. One of the finest Occidental Planes I am acquainted with, though I have heard of larger, stands in the vicarage garden at Yicar's Hill, where its boughs, feathering to the ground, form a canopy of above fifty feet in diameter. The Glebe House at Boldre — restored by tlie present, vicar — still retains, as during Gilpin's residence there, its name of 'Vicar's Hill.' The Occidental Plane referred to by Gilpin is still in full vigour, and now spans 85 feet. — Ed. The Oriental Plane is a tree nearly of the same kind, only its leaf is more palmated ; nor has it 74 Gilpin's poeest soeneey. so great a disposition to overshadow the ground, as the Occidental Plane. At least I ncA'-er saw any in our climate form so noble a shade ; though, in the East, it is esteemed among the most shady and most magnificent of trees. Lady Craven speaks of some she saw in the Turkish dominions of a size so gigantic, that the largest trees we have in England placed near them, would appear only like broomsticks.* In Italy a very noble collection of them form the avenue to the convent of Grotta-Ferrata, near Frascati, which is said to occupy the exact site of TuUy's Tusculan villa, about twelve miles from Rome on the Alban Hill. The tree at the end of the avenue farthest from the convent, and close to a plentiful spring, exceeds the rest in size and beauty. This con- vent is often visited for the sake of a picture by Dominichino. The Oriental Plane I believe sheds its bark like the Occidental, and the catkins of both are round, spicated balls about the size of walnuts, and fastened together often in pairs, like chain- * Letter 47. DESCRIPTIA'-E ENUMERATION OF TBEES, 75 shot. From this circumstance the Occidental Plane is called, in America, the Button Tree. It flourishes there, commonly, by the sides of creeks and rivers, and is of quick growth. The Oriental Plane, I believe, loves the same soil : at least, both trees in England are fond of moist ground. Kempfer tells us * that at Jedo, the capital of Japan, he found a species of this tree, the leaves of which were beautifully variegated, like the tri- colour, with red, green and yellow. An appear- ance of this kind is so contrary to Nature's usual mode of colouring the leaves of forest trees that I should rather suspect Kempfer saw it either, when the leaves were in the wane, or blasted, or in some other unnatural state. I may add, with regard to the Occidental Plane, and indeed, I believe, with regard to both the trees of this species, that their summer leaf wears so light a hue, as to mix. ill with the foliage of the Oak, the- Elm, and other trees. I have seen them, on the skirts of a plantation, forming, during the summer, a disagreeable spot. In * See page 524. 76 Gilpin's forest scenery. autumn, their leaves receive a mellow tint whicli harmonizes very -well with the waning colours of the wood. I have heard of other varieties of these foreign Planes ; but if there are, I am unacquainted with them. One singularity of this tree may be mentioned, which I believe runs through all its varieties. The stem of every leaf forms, at its insertion into the spray, a little calyx or cup, which covers and de- fends the bud of the succeeding year. In autumn you easily discover it by pulling off a decayed leaf. The Poplar tribe shall be considered next. They are numerous, and some of them picturesque. They are at least stately trees ; but their thin, quivering foliage is neither adapted to catch masses of light, like that of the Elm, nor has it the hanging lightness of the Ash. Its chief use in landscape is to mix as a variety, in contrast with other trees. "Within these few years the Lombardy Poplar, which graces the banks of the Po, has been much introduced in English plantations. It seems to like a British soil, and its youth is promising, but I have never seen it in full maturity. Its conic DESCEIPTIVB ENOMEEATION OF TREES. 11 form as a deciduous tree, is peculiar. Among evergreens we find tlie same character in tlie Cypress, and botli trees, in many situations, have a good effect. Tlie Cypress often, among tlie ruins of ancient Rome, breaks tlie regularity of a wall or a pediment by its conic form ; and tlio Poplar on tlie banks of the Po no doubt lias the same effect among its deciduous brethren, by forming the apex of a clump, though I have been told that, in its age, it loses its shape in some degree, and spreads more into a head. The oldest Poplars of this kind I have seen are at Blenheim. Tliey are not old trees, but are very tall, and I believe still preserve their spiry form.* One beauty the Italian Poplar possesses, which is almost peculiar to itself, and that is the waving line it forms when pressed by wind. Most trees in this circumstance are partially agitated. One side is at rest, while the other is in motion. But the Italian Poplar waves in one simple sweep from the top to the bottom, like an ostrich-feather on a lady's head. All the * Three of tliem are still living, — Ed. ir 2 78 Gilpin's fobest scenery. brandies coincide in the motion, and the blast often makes an impression npon it when otlier trees are at rest. I have mentioned, among the adventitious beauties of trees, their snscrptihilifi/ of motion ;* but, in painting, I know not that I should represent any kind of motion in a tree, except that of a violent storm. When the blast is loud and boisterous ; when the black heavens are in unison with it, and help to tell the story, an Oak, straining in the wind, is an object of picturesque beauty. But when the gentle breeze, pressing upon the quivering Poplar, bends it only in easy motion, while a serene sky indicates the heavens to be at peace, there is nothing to act in concert with the motion of the tree : it seems to have taken its form from the influence of a sea air, or some other malign impression, and, exhibiting an un- natural appearance, disgusts. One thing more I should mention with regard to the Italian Poplar, which is, that although it sometimes has a good effect, when standing single, it generally has a * See page 39. DESCRIPTIVE ENUMERATION OP TREES. 79 better wlieii two or three are planted in a group. The Walnut is not an unpicturesque tree. The "vyarm, russet hue of its young foliage makes a pleasing variety among the vivid green of other trees, about the end of May : and the same variety is maintained in summer, by the contrast of its yellowish hue, when mixed in any quantity with trees of a darker tint ; but it opens its leaves so late, and drops them so early, that it cannot long be in harmony with the grove. It stands best alone, and the early loss of its foliage is of the less consequence, as its ramification is generally beautiful. The Lime is an elegant tree, where it is suffered to grow at large; but we generally see it in straight bondage, clipped into shape, and forming the sides of avenues and vistas. But in its best state it is not very interesting. It has a uniformity of surface, without any of those breaks and hollows which the most picturesque trees present, and which give their foliage so much beauty. One circumstance, however, should recommend the Lime to all lovers of the imitative 80 Gilpin's forest soenkry. arts. No wood is so easily formed under tlie carver's chisel. It is the wood which the inge- nious Gibbon used, after making trial of several kinds, as the most proper for that curious sculpture which adorns some of the old houses of our nobility. If not, strictly speaking, a picturesque, the Lime is a very beautiful tree ; and not less, as we think, in its leaf- less form than when clothed, in the early summer, with its exquisite golden green foliage. The objectionable custom of clipping it ' into shape ' is almost, if not quite, as much practised now as in Gilpin's time, and, possibly, the unpicturesqueness ascribed to it by our Author may have arisen, in the specimens which he saw, from some previous process of clipping of which he had no know- ledge. We have spoken elsewhere* of the fohage and of the general character of the Lime, and of the tree in its leafless form we may say that it is— more especially in its earlier years, when untouched by the pruning knife of the gardener, and suffered to grow in freedom — unrivalled in symmetry and beauty. There are, for instance, young specimens growing under such circum- stances at the present time in Kew Gardens which will f ally justify this opinion. For ornamental carving Lime * In Our Woodland Trees. DESOEIPTIVE E]vrOMEltA.TI0N OF TEEBS. 81 wood is superior to any other, and it has the advantage of keeping free from the attacks of insects. — Ed. Tlie Maple is an uncommon tree, ttougli a common bush. Its wood is of little value and it is, therefore, rarely suffered to increase. "We sel- dom see it employed in any nobler service than in filling up its part in a hedge, in company with thorns and briars and other ditch trumpery. Yet the ancients held it in great repute. Pliny * speaks as highly of the knobs and excrescences of this tree, called the brusca and mollusca, as Dr. Plot does of those of the Ash.f The veins of these excrescences in the Maple, Pliny tells us, were so variegated that they exceeded the beauty of any other wood, even of the Citron ; though the Citron was in such repute at Rome that Cicero, who was neither rich nor expensive, was tempted to give ten thousand sesterces for a Citron table. The brusca and mollusca, Pliny adds, were rarely of size suflBcient for the larger species of furniture; but in all smaller cabinet * See Pliu. Nat. Hist., lib. xvi. cli. 16. t See page 55. See also Plin. Nat. Hist., lib. xiii. ch. 15. 82 Gilpin's foeest scenery. work they were inestimable. Indeed the whole tree was esteemed by the ancients, on account of its variegated wood. In Ovid we find it thus celebrated : — ' Acerque coloribus impar.' * How far, at this day, it may be valued for cabinet work, I know not. I have, here and there, seen boxes, and other little things made of it, which I have thought beautiful. But I am told that in North America, where it grows wild, it is in much esteem. When the cabinet maker meets with a knotted tree of this kind, which is there called the curled Maple, he prizes it highly. In the few instances I have met with of this tree in a state of maturity its form has appeared picturesque. It is not unlike the Oak, but is more bushy, and its branches are closer and more compact. One of the largest Maples I have seen, stands in the churchyard of Boldre, in New Forest : but 1 have not met with specimens enough of this tree to form an opinion of its general character. * Met., lit. X. V. 1. The Maple stained with, various hues. DESCRirTIVE ENUMBEATION OF TREES. 83 The Field Maple in Boldre cliurchyardj refen-ed to by Gilpiiij was destined to be invested with a peculiar inte- rest, for under its shadow is the grave of this true lover of Nature. Gilpin, as we have already stated, was buried in Boldre churchyard by his own request, and his grave- stone bears an inscription part of which he himself had written some little time before his death. The same grave encloses the remains of Gilpin's wife, who died July 14th, 1807.— Ed. The Great Maple, commonly called tlie Syca- more, is a grander and nobler tree than the smaller Maple ; but it wants its elegance ; it is coarse in proportion to its bulk. It forms, however, an impenetrable shade, and often receives well-con- trasted masses of light. Its bark has not the furrowed roughness of the Oak, but it has a species of roughness very picturesque. In itself, it is smooth, but it peels off in large flakes, like the Planes (to which, in other respects, it bears a near alliance), leaving patches of diflFerent hues, seams and cracks, which are often picturesque. The Chestnut, in maturity and perfection, is a noble tree, and grows not unlike the Oak. Its ramification is more straggling; but it is easy, and its foliage loose. This is the tree which 84 gilp;n's fokest , sceneey. graces the landscapes of Salvator Rosa. In tlie mountains of Calabria, where Salvator painted, tlie Chestnut flourished. There he studied it in all its forms, breaking and disposing it in a thousand beautiful shapes, as the exigencies of his composi- tion required. I have heard, indeed, ,tliat it is naturally brittle, and liable to be shattered by ■winds, which might be one reason for Salvator's attachment to it. But although I have many times seen the Chestnut in England, old enough to be in a fruit-bearing state, yet I have seldom seen it in a state of full picturesque maturity. The best I have seen, stand on the banks of the Tamar, in Cornwall, at an old house, belonging to the Edgcumbe family. I have heard also that at Beechworth Castle, in Surrey, there are not fewer than seventy or eighty Chestnuts, measuring from twelve to eighteen or twenty feet in girth, and some of them of very picturesque form ; but I saw them only at a distance. In Kent also the Chestnut is frequently found. Some of the old Chestnuts referred to by Gilpin as standing on the banks of the Tamar have disappeared ; but we have learnt^ on inquiry, that two of them are still in DESCEIPTIVE ENUMEEATION 01^" TREES. 85 existence, growing near wliat was once an old stable on Lord Mount Edgcumbe's estate. Tbese trees are believed to be upwards of tbree hundred years old ! — Ed. It is said, indeed, that this tree was once very common in England, and tliat beams of it are often seen, at this day, in churches and old houses. In the belfry particularly of the church at Sutton, near Mitcham, in Surrey, I have seen beams which are like Oak, yet plainly appear to be of a different kind of timber, and are supposed to be Chestnut. I have often heard also, that the timber of the old houses of London was of Chestnut. Whether this ti-ee was ever indi- genous to this country seems to be matter of speculation. As its timber is said to be service- able, and as its fruit, though rarely of perfect growth in this climate, might however be of some use, we are at a loss to conceive, if it had once gotten footing amongst us, how it should ever be, as it now is, almost totally exterminated. Some have endeavoured to account for this, by showing that it is not so good a timber tree as is supposed, for it decays at the heart, and will continue decay- ing, till it become merely a shell, and for this 86 GlIiPIN's FORBST SCKNERT. reason it has been less sought after and encou- raged. How far this may be true I know not. I rather suspect its truth.* Some years ago Mr. Daines Barrington read a paper to the Royal Society, in which he endeavoured to prove that the Chestnut was not indigenous to this country. Dr. Ducarel answered him, and alleged from ancient records, and other evidences, that Chestnut formerly abounded in many woody scenes in England, and was certainly a native of this island. Among the ancient records to which he appeals, one is dated in the time of Henry II. It is a deed of gift from Roger, Earl of Plereford, to Flexley Abbey, of the tithe of all his Chestnuts in the Forest of Dean.f Many persons have shared thfe belief of Gilpin that the wood found in a number of the most ancient buildings in this country was that of the Chestnut j and this belief gave rise to the opinion that Gastanea vesca must be indigenous. But Buffon suggested that the timber in old buildings, * In the, tenth volume of the Transactions of the Society for the Encouragement of Arts, &c., some instances are given of its being a very useful timber tree. t See Four Letters on Chestnut trees, read before the Eoyal Society, 1771. DBSCEIPTIVJi ENUMEE.ATION OP TEBBS. 87 supposed to be that of the Chestnut^ was in reaUty the ■wood of the Durmast Oak {Quercus sessiliflora) , and this view has since been adopted by other writers. There is a great similarity in the two kinds of timber, and hence, doubtless, the confusion. The church at Sutton has been wholly rebuilt since Gilpin's time, and the timber of the tower has, the present rector informs us, been 'used agfain in various places.' It is a curious fact that the timber of the Chestnut — unlike that of the Oak — decreases in value as the tree increases in age. — Ed. Tlie Horse-Chestnut is a heavy, disagreeable tree. It forms its foliage generally in a round mass, witli little appearance of tliose breaks Avhich, we have observed, contribute to give an airiness and lightness, at least a richness and variety to the whole mass of foliage. This tree is, however, chiefly admired for its flower, which m itself is beautiful; but the whole tree together in flower is a glaring object, totally unharmonious, and unpicturesque. The park at Hampton Court, planted, I believe, by King William, is a superb specimen of a plantation of Horse-Chestnuts. In some situations indeed, and among a profusion of other wood, a single tree or two, in bloom, may be beautiful. As it forms an admirable shade, it may 88 Gilpin's foeest scenebt. be of use, too, in tlaickening distant scenery, or in screening an object at hand, for there is no species of foliage, however heavy, nor any species of bloom, however glaring, which may not be brought, by some proper contrast, to produce a good effect. It is seldom that we can express disagreement with so true a lover of Nature and so delightful a writer as the Author of this ' Forest Scenery.' But we are impelled to put in a plea for the Horse-Chestnut j for we cannot allow that it is a ' disagreeable tree ■" either in summer or winter. Wild Nature produces nothing unlovely, and it is by her contrastSj as much as by her harmonies, that she charms. Those who love her, and all, indeed, who have an eye for the picturesque, will not judge her pictures by their outlines alone. They will look with earnest and curious eyes into their details. And those who do this can surely not deny that an individual leaf of the Horse- Chestnut is a study in itself and an object of singular beauty. Collectively, the wealth of glorious leafage on a large specimen of ^safZit.? MjDpocastanum presents a mag- nificent spectacle either in the early .^ipring time, when a golden hue overspreads its foliage, or in the season of its full glory, when a greater depth of verdancy makes more fitting contrast with the white and brilliant heads of bloom. — Ed. The "Weeping Willow is a very picturesque tree. It is a perfect contrast to what we have just DESCRIPTIVE ENUMERATION OE TREES. 89 observed of the Lombardy Poplar. The light airy spray of the Poplar rises perpendicularly. That of the Weeping Willow is pendent. The shape of its leaf is conformable to the pensile character of the tree, and its spray, which is still lighter than that of the Poplar, is more easily put into motion by a breath of air. The Weeping Willow, how- ever, is not adapted to sublime subjects. We wish it not to screen the broken buttresses and Gothic windows of an abbey, nor to overshadow the battlements of a ruined castle. These offices it resigns to the Oak, whose dignity can support them. The Weeping Willow seeks a humbler scene — some romantic foot-path bridge, which it half conceals — or some glassy pool, over which it hangs its streaming foliage, — ' And dips Its pendent Loughs, stooping as if to drink.' In these situations it appears in character, and, of course, to advantage. I have heard indeed that the Weeping Willow is not naturally an aquatic plant, but its being commonly believed to be so is ground enough to establish it as such, in landscape at least, if not in botany. 90 gilpin's fobest scenery. The "Weeping Willow is the only one of its tribe that is beautiful. Botanists, I believe, enumerate sixteen species of the "Willow. Some of them I have seen attain a very remarkable size. I remember seeing one, in a meadow near Witham, in Essex, which spread over a space of ground measuring twenty-nine paces. But, in general, all the trees of this sort are of straggling ramification, and without any of that elegant- streaming form which we admire in the "Weep- ing "Willow. I should rarely therefore advise their use in painting, except as pollards to cha- racterize a marshy country, or to mark, in a second distance, the winding banks of a heavy, low-sunk river, which could not otherwise be noticed. Some Willows indeed I have thought beautiful, and fit to appear in the decoration of any rural scene. The kind I have most ad- mired has a small narrow leaf, and wears a pleasant, light, sea-green tint, which mixes agree- ably with foliage of a deeper hue. I am not ac- quainted with the botanical name of this species, but I believe the botanists call it the Salix alba. DESOKIPTIVB ENUMERATION OP TREES. 91 The Withy, or Salixfragilis, is the most incon- siderable of its tribe. Like others of its kindred, it will grow in any soil, though it loves a moist one. It is of little value in landscape, and. yet there is something beautiful in its silver-coated catkins, which open, as the year advances, into elegant hanging tufts ; and when the tree is large and in full bloom, make a beautiful variety among the early productions of the spring. The art of multiplying species, by giving to plants which slightly differ from each other distinct botanical names, has become very much developed since Gilpin's time. Even botanists in his day w^ere content to divide the genus Salix into sixteen species. But now two hundred varieties are named as existing in English collections, and not less than seventy of these are said to be natives of Britain ! Gilpin is content to describe three species. — Ed. Nearly related to the Willow tribe, though in Nature rather than in form, is the Alder. They both love a low moist soil, and frequently the banks of rivers, though it may be alleged in favour of both, that they will flourish in the poorest forest swamps where nothing else will grow. The Alder is, however, the more picturesque tree, both in its G 92 Gilpin's forest sceneey. ramification, and in its foliage ; perhaps, indeed, it is the most picturesque of any of tlie aquatic tribe, except the Weeping Willow. He who would see the Alder in perfection, must follow the banks of the Mole, in Surrey, through the sweet vales of Dorking and Mickleham into the groves of Esher. The Mole, indeed, is far from being a beautiful river; it is a silent and sluggish stream. But what beauty it has it owes greatly to the Alder, which everywhere fringes its meadows, and, in many places, forms pleasing scenes, especially in the vale between Box Hill, and the high grounds of Norbury Park. Some of the largest Alders we have in England grow in the Bishop of Durham's park at Auck- land-castle. The generality of trees acquire pic- • turesque beauty by age, but it is not often that they are suffered to attain this picturesque period. Some use is commonly found for them long before that time. The Oak falls for the greater purposes of man, and the Alder is ready to supply a variety of his smaller wants. An old tree, therefore, of any kind is a curiosity ; and even an Alder, such as those at Auckland-castle, when dignified by age, DESCRIPTIVE ENUMERATION, OF TEEES. 93 makes a respectable figure. The circumference of tlie largest of these trees is nine feet ten inches, at four feet from the surface. There are many noble Alders, also, in the park at Hagley. The Mole still, as when Gilpiu wrote, owes its beauty largely to the Alders which fringe its banks. We referred the passage from the text to the Eev. Samuel L. Warren, the present Vicar of Esher, and have been assured, as the result of painstaking inquiry courteously undertaken for us, that it ' correctly represents the present condition of the river in that particular.' The Rev. Robert Long, the Vicar of Auckland St. Andrew, informs us that all the old Alders in the Bishop's park have disappeared. He adds, ' the stumps remain of some of them to bear witness that they were giants, but their glory is departed.' — Ed. The Birch may have several varieties, with which I am not acquainted. The most common species of it in England are the Black and the White. The former is a native of Canada, the latter of Britain. Of the "White Birch there is a very beautiful variety, sometimes called the Lady Birch, or the "Weeping Birch. Its spray being slenderer and longer than the common sort, forms an elegant pensile foliage, like the Weeping Willow, and, like it, is put in motion by the least Q 2 94 Gilpin's forest scbneey. breath, of air. When agitated, it is well adapted to characterize a storm, or to perform any office in landscape which is expected from the "Weeping Willow. The stem of the Birch is generally marked with brown, yellow, and silvery touches, which are peculiarly picturesque, as they are characteristic objects of imitation for the pencil, and as they contrast agreeably with the dark-green hue of the foliage. But only the stem and larger branches have this varied colouring ; the spray is of a deep brown. As the Birch grows old, its bark becomes rough and fui-rowed. It loses all its varied tints, and assumes a uniform, ferruginous hue. The bark of this tree has the property (perhaps peculiar to itself) of being more firm and durable than the wood it invests. Of this the peasants of Sweden, Lapland, and other northern countries (where the Birch is abundant), take advantage ; and shaping it hke tiles, cover their houses with it. How very durable it is, we have a remarkable instance in Maupertuis's travels. When that phi- losopher traversed Lapland to measure a degree of latitude, he was obliged to pass through vast DESOEIPTIVE ENUMERATION OF TREES. 95 forests, consisting entirely of Bircli. The soil in some parts of these wastes being very shallow, or very loose, the trees had not a snflBcient footing for their roots, and became an easy prey to winds. In these places Maupertuis found as many trees blown down as standing. He examined several of them, and was surprised to see that in such as had lain long, the substance of the wood was entirely gone ; but the bark remained a hollow trunk without any signs of decay. I have heard that the bark of the Black Cherry Tree in North America, which grows there to a great size, has the same property. Among elegant, pendent trees, the Acacia should not be forgotten; though the Acacia which we have in England (called by the botanist the Bobinia) is perhaps only a poor substitute of this plant in its greatest perfection. And yet even ours, when we have it full grown, is often a very beautiful tree, whether it feathers to the ground, as it sometimes does, or whether it is adorned with a light foliage hanging from the stem. But its beauty is very frail. It is, of all trees, the least able to endure the blast. In some 96 gilhn's i-or-ert sceneey. sheltered spot it may ornament a garden, but it is by no means qualified, to adorn an exposed country. Its wood is of so brittle a texture, especially when it is encumbered with a weight of foliage, that you can never depend upon its aid in filling up the part you wish. The branch you admire to-day may be demolished to-morrow. The misfortune is, the Acacia is not one of those grand objects like the Oak, whose dignity is often increased by ruin. It depends on its beauty rather than its grandeur, which is a quality much more liable to injury. I may add, however, in its favour, that if it be easily injured, it repairs the injury more quickly than any other tree. Few trees make so rapid a growth. In one of the memoirs published by the Agri- cultural Society at Paris the virtues of this tree are highly extolled. Its shade encourages the growth of grass. Its roots are so tenacious of the soil, and shoot up in such groves of suckers, that, when planted on the banks of rivers, it con- tributes exceedingly to, fix; them as barriers against the incursions of the stream. Acacia- stakqs, too, are as durable as those of any wood. DESCEIPTIVE ENUMERATION OF TEEES. 97 In North America this tree is much valued; in proof of which the memoriahst tells a story of a farmer in Long Island, who planted an ordinary field of fourteen acres with suckers of this plant, in the year of his marriage, as a portion for his children. His eldest son married at twenty-two. On this occasion the farmer cut about three hundred pounds' worth of timber out of his Acacia wood, which he gave his son to buy a settlement in Lancaster county. Three years after, he did as much for a daughter. And thus he provided for his whole family ; the wood, in the mean time, repaiinng by suckers all the losses it received. I shall conclude my account of deciduous trees with the Larch, which is a kind of connecting species between them and the race of evergreens. Though it sheds its leaf with the former, it bears a cone, is resinous, and ramifies like the latter. It claims the Alps and Apennines for its native country, where it thrives in higher regions of the air than any tree of its consequence is known to do; hanging over rocks and precipices which have never been visited by human feet. Often it is felled by the Alpine peasant, and thrown 98 gilptn's tobest scenery. athwart some yawning chasm, where it affords a tremendous passage from cliff to cliff, while the cataract roaring many fathoms below, is seen only in surges of rising vapour. In ancient times the Larch was employed in still more arduous service. When Hannibal laid the cliffs bare and heaped up piles of timber to melt the rocks (so Livy tells us) the Larch was his fuel : its unctuous sides soon spread the flame ; and, as the gloom of evening came on, the appendages of a numerous host, elephants, and floating banners and gleaming arms, formed ter- rific images through the night, while the lofty summits of the Alps were illumined far and wide. Strabo speaks of Alpine trees (which most probably were Larches) of a very great size. Many of them, he says, would measure eight feet in diameter.* And, at this day, masts of single Larches, measuring from a hundred and ten to a hundred and twenty feet in length, have been floated from Yalais, through the lake of Geneva, and down the Rhone, to Toulon ; though I have * Lib. iv., p. 202. DESCEIPTIVB ENUMEIIATION OF TREES. 99 heard tliey are in no great esteem among the con- tractors for the French dockyards. In the memohs of the Royal Society of Agri- culture at Paris for the year 1787, there is an essay by M. le President de la Tour d'Aigues, on the culture of the Larch, in "which it is celebrated as one of the most usisful of all timber trees. He tells us that, in his own garden, he has rails which were put up in the year 1743, partly of Oak, and partly of Larch. The former, he says, have yielded to time, but the latter are still sound. And in his castle of Tour d'Aigues he has larchen beams of twenty inches square, which are sound, though above two hundred years old. The finest trees he knows, of this kind, grow in some parts of Dauphine, and in the forest of Baye in Pro- vence, where there are Larches, he tells us, which two men cannot fathom. I have heard that old, dry Larch will take such a polish as to become almost transparent, and that, in this state, it may be wrought into the most beautiful wainscot. In my encomium of the Larch, I must not omit that the old painters used it more than any other wood to paint on, before the use of canvas became general. 100 gili'in's forest sceneet. Many of RapTiael's pictures are painted on boards of Larct. The Larcli we have in England compared witli the Larcli of the Alps is a diminutive plant. It is little more than the puny inhabitant of a garden, or the embellishment of some trifling artificial scene. The characters of grand and noble seldom belong to it. It is, however, an elegant tree, though, in our soil at least, too formal in its growth. Among its native steeps its form, no doubt, is fully picturesque, when the storms of many a century have shattered its equal sides and given contrast and variety to its boughs. Sinco Gilpin's time the Larch has been much more extensively cultivated than it used to be, and its timber, also, has come to be held in much greater estimation than it formerly was. It is no longer 'the puny inhabitant of a garden ;' and though in England we have not, perhaps^ very many large specimens, it is far otherwise in Scot- land, upon whose mountains Larix europma grows to grand dimensions. What our Author says of the quality of its timber is fully justified by the results of modern expe- rience. Another reason, however, than that which he appears to suggest, would probably have accounted for the apparent disinclination of the French naval contractors to use Larch for masts — namely the difficulty of transport- DESCRIPTIVE ENUMBEATION OP TREES. 101 ing trees of the necessary size. This, at any rate, is the explanation suggested by M. C. de Kirwan, an Inspector in the Forestal Department of France, and the able author of a work on Coniferous trees {Les Coniferes, indigenes et exotiquos. Paris. J. Rothschild) . In an interesting com- munication with which he has favoured us, M, de Kirwan says, ' Malheur eusement le Mel^ae, en France, ne croit que dans des regions montagneuses des plus abruptes et diffi- cilement accessibles. II en resulte que I'exploitation en longues billes et le transport a grandes distances de ceroi des montagnes alpestres est malaise et onereux. C'est probablement pour cette cause que la marine fran9aise n'a pas Phabitude de se servir de cette essence, et c'est dommage, sans doute ; car, outre la souplesse et la resis- tance de son bois, le Meleze, arbre de premiere grandeur, arrive frequemment tlune hauteur de 30 a 40 metres, avec un diametre proportionne. Fortement impregne de resine, le Melfeze defie les outrages du temps comme les attaques et les morsures des insectes.'' A further extract, which we subjoin, from M. de Kirwan's letter, touching the pe- culiar and valuable qualities of Larch wood and its use in shipping, will be read with interest as an appropriate ap- pendix to Gilpin's remarks on this subject. The author of Les Coniferes says, — ' II est certain que le Meleze des Alpes, ayant cru aux altitudes de 1000 il 1900 ou 2000 metres, offre des qualites precieuses pour tout espcce de constructions, y compris les constructions maritimes. II est employe, notamment dans la marine du lac de Genfeve, 102 GILPIN S FOREST SCENERY. et Ton a pu y constater que les bordages en bois de Meleze ont plus de duree m^me que ceux de Ohene. Pour la mktare, ce bois ne doit pas etre moins avantageux ; car les accroissements annuelsj tres minces, tres regaliers, et formes de zones alteruativement molles et dureSj en acqui- erent une tres grande elasticite qui lui donne h la fois duree et force de resistance.' — Ed. From deciduous trees we proceed to ever- greens. Of these tlie Cedar of Lebanon clainls our first notice. To it, pre-eminence belongs, not only on account of its own dignity, but on account of the respectable mention which is everywhere made of it in Scripture. Solomon spake of trees from the Cedar of Lebanon to the Hyssop that springeth out of the wall: that is, from the greatest to the least. The Eastern writers are, indeed, the principal sources from which we are to obtain the true character of the Cedar, as it is an Eastern tree. In the sacred writers par- ticularly we are presented with many noble images drawn from its several qualities. It is generally employed by the prophets to express strength, power, and longevity. The strength of the Cedar is used as an emblem to express the power even of Jehovah. The voice of the Lord DESCEIPTIVE ENUJiERxVTION OE TEEES. 103 hreaheth the Cedars of Lebanon. David cliarac- terizes tlie Palm Tree and the Cedar together, both very sti^ongly. The righteous shall flourish nice a Falm Tree ; and spread abroad like a Cedar of Lebanon. The flourishing head of the Palm, and the spreading abroad of the Cedar, are equally characteristic. But the prophet Ezekiel has given us the fullest description of the Cedar : — ' Behold the Assyrian was a Cedar in Lebanon, "with fair branches, and with a shadowing shroud, and of an high stature ; and his top was among the thick boughs. His boughs were multiplied, and his branches became long. The Fir trees were not like his boughs, nor the Chestnut trees like his branches, nor any tree in the garden of God like unto him in beauty.'* In this description two of the principal charac- teristics of the Cedar are marked. The first is the multiplicity and length of his branches. Few trees divide so many fair branches, from the main stem, or spread over so large a * Ezek. xxxi. 104 gii-pin's forest scenery. compass of ground. His houghs are multiplied, as Bzekiel says, and his branches became long ; wliicli David calls spreading abroad. His very boughs are equal to tHe stem of a Fir, or a Chestnut. The second characteristic is what Bzekiel, with great beauty and aptness, calls his shadoiving shroiid. No tree in the forest is more remarkable than the Cedar for its close-woven, leafy canopy. Bzekiel's Cedar is marked as a tree of full and perfect growth, from the circumstance of its top being among the thich boughs. Bvery young tree has a leading branch or two, which continue spiring above the rest till the tree has attained its full size : then it becomes in the language of the nurseryman clump-headed; but, in the language of Bastern sublimity, its top is among the thick boughs ; that is, no distinction of any spiry head or leading branch, appears : the head and the branches are all mixed together. This is gene- rally, in all trees, the state in which they are most perfect and most beautiful : and this is the state of Bzekiel's Cedar. But though Bzekiel has given us this accurate description of the Cedar, he has left its strength. DESCEIPTIVE ENUMJSEATION OF TREES. 105 wliicli is its chief characteristic, uiitoached. But the reason is evident. Tlie Cedar is here in- troduced as an emblem of Assyria, -wliicli, tliougli vast and wide-spreading and come to full maturity, was, in fact, on the eve of destruction. Strength, therefore, was the last idea which the prophet wished to suggest. Strength is a relative term compared with opposition. The Assyrian was strong compared with the powers on earth, but weak compared with the arm of the Almighty which brought him to destruction. So his type, the Cedar, was stronger than any of the trees of the forest, but weak in comparison with the axe which cut him off, and left him (as the prophet expresses the vastness of his ruin) spread upon the mountains and in the valleys; while the nations shoolc at the sound of Ids fall. Such is the grandeur and form of the Cedar of Lebanon. Its mantling foliage, or shadowing shroud, as Bzekiel calls it, is its greatest beauty, which arises from the horizontal growth of its branches, forming a kind of sweeping, irregular pent-house. And when, to the idea of beauty, that of strength is added by the pyramidal form of the 106 Gilpin's fokest scenery. stem and the robustness of the Umbs, the tree is complete in all its beauty and majesty. In these climates, indeed, we cannot expect to see the Cedar in such perfection. The forest of Lebanon is perhaps the only part of the world where its growth is perfect ; yet we may in some degree conceive its beauty and majesty from the paltry resemblances of it at this distance from its native soil. In its youth it is often, with us, a vigorous, thriving plant, and if the leading branch is not bound to a pole (as many people deform their Cedars) but left to take its natural course and guide the stem after it in some irregular waving line, it is often an object of great beauty. But, in its maturer age, the beauty of the English Cedar is generally gone, it becomes shrivelled, deformed and stunted ; its body increases, but its limbs shrink and wither. Thus it never gives us its two leading qualities together. In its youth Ave have some idea of its beauty without its strength, and in its advanced age we have some idea of its strength without its beauty : the imagination, therefore, by joining together the two different periods of its age in this climate, may DESCmPTIVE ENOMEEATION OE TUBES. 107 form some conception of the gi-andeur of tlie Cedar in its own climate, wliere its strength and beauty are united. The best specimen of this tree I ever saw in England was at liillington, near Uxbridge. The perpendicular height of it was fifty three feet, its horizontal expanse ninety six, and its girth fifteen and a half. "When I saw it, in 1776, it was about one hundred and eighteen years of age, and being then completely clump- headed, it was a very noble and picturesque tree. In the high winds about the beginning of the year 1790, this noble Cedar was blown down. Its stem, when cut, was five feet in diameter. After the Cedar the Stone Pine deserves our notice. It is not indigenous to our soil, but, like the Cedar, it is in some degree naturalized, though in England it is rarely more than a puny, half- formed resemblance of the Italian Pine. The soft clime of Italy alone gives birth to the true pic- turesque Pine.* There it always suggests ideas of * Tliis SGGins to bo a disputod point. Millar believes it is not indigenous in Italy ; and indeed 1 never heard any traveller say lie liad mot with it in any of the uncultivated parts of that country. H 108 Gilpin's foeest scjunert. broken porticos, Ionic pillars, triumphal arches, fragments of old temples, and a variety of classic ruins, which, in Italian landscape, it commonly adorns. The Stone Pine promises little in its infancy in point of picturesque beauty. It does not, hke most of the Kr species, give an early indication of its future form. In its youth it is dwarfish and round-headed, with a short stem, and has rather the shape of a full-grown bush than of an increasing tree. As it grows older, it does not soon deposit its formal shape. But as it attains maturity, its picturesque form increases fast. Its lengthening stem assumes commonly an easy sweep. It seldom, indeed, deviates much from a straight line, but that gentle deviation is very graceful, though, above all other lines, difl&cult to trace. If accidentally either the stem, or any of the larger branches, take a larger sweep than usual, that sweep seldom fails to be graceful. It is also among the beauties of the Stone Pine that, as the lateral branches decay, they leave generally stumps, which, standing out in various parts of the stem, break the continuity of its lines. DESCEIPTIVB ENUMEEA.TION 01? TEEES, 109 Tlie bark is smoother tlian tliat of any other tree of the Pine kind, except the "Weymouth; though we do not esteem this among its pic- turesque beauties. Its hue, however, which is warm and reddish, has a good efEect; and it obtains a kind of roughness by peehng off in patches. The foliage of the Stone Pine is as beautiful as the stem. Its colour is a deep, warm green ; and its form, instead of breaking into acute angles, like many of the Pine race, is moulded into a flowing line by an assemblage of small masses. As age comes on, its round clump-head becomes more flat, spreading itself into a canopy, which is a form equally becoming. And yet I doubt whether any resinous tree ever attains that pic- turesque beauty in age which we admire so much in the Oak. The Oak continues long vigorous in his branches, though his trunk decays : but the resinous tree, I believe, decays more equally through all its parts ; and, in age, oftener presents the idea of vegetable decrepitude than of the stout remains of a vigorous constitution. And H 2 110 Gilpin's forest sceneet. yetj in many circumstances, even in this state, it may be an object of picturesque notice. Thus we see, in the form of the Stone Pine, what beauty may result from a tree with a round head and without lateral branches, which requires indeed a good example to prove. When we look at an Ash or an Elm, from Avhich the lateral branches have been stripped, as is the practice in some countries, we are apt to thinlc that no tree, with a head placed on a long stem, can be beautiful : yet in Nature's hands (which can mould so many forms of beauty) it may easily be effected. Nature herself, however, does not always follow the rules of picturesque beauty in the production of this kind of object. The Cab- bage Tree, I suppose, is as ugly as the Stone Pine is picturesque. The best specimen of the Stone Pine I ever saw was growing in the botanical garden at Oxford. For the sake of the ground it occupied (I have never heard any other reason suggested) it was lately cut down. The most beautiful succedaneum of the Stone Pine which these climates afford is the Pinaster. The sweep of its stem is similar, its broken lateral DESCKIP'JIVE KNUMKEATION 01'" TREES. Ill branches likewise, and its clump-liead. Botli trees, also, arc equally irregular in their growth ; but tlie Pinaster is perhaps more picturesque in the roughness of its dark-grey bark. On no trees have I seen broader and better varied masses of light and shade : but the closeness of the Pinaster's foliage makes its head sometimes too heavy. The Cluster Pine also is a beautiful tree, and approaches perhaps as near the' Stone Pine as the Pinaster does. But I scarce recollect ever to have seen it in a state of full maturity and per- fection. If we may judge, however, from a growth of thirty or forty years (at which age I have often seen it), it shoots in so wild and irregular a manner, so thick, rich and bushy, that we may easily conceive how picturesque a plant it must be in a state of full perfection. Its cones, too, which it bears in clusters, from whence it derives its name, are a great ornament to it. In composition, indeed, such minutite are of little value; but we are now considering trees as in- dividuals. The Piiiastei" and the Cluster Piue are oue and the 112 Gilpin's forest scenery. same tree {Finns pinaster), and it is curious that Gilpin sliould have referred to them as distinct. His mistake may possibly have arisen on account of its irregular growthj and from the fact, perhaps, of his having made the acquaintance of the tree under each of its common names and under differing circumstances of growth. — Bd. I The Weymouth Pine has very Httle picturesque I beauty to recommend it. lb is admired for its polished bark. The painter's eye pays little attention to so trivial a circumstance, even when the tree is considered as a single object. Nay, its polished bark rather depreciates its value : for the picturesque eye dwells with more pleasure on rough surfaces than on smooth: it sees more richness in them and more variety. But we I object, chiefly, to the Weymouth Pine on account j of the regularity of its stem, and the meagreness I of its foliage. Its stem rises with perpendicular exactness : it rarely varies ; and its branches issue, with equal formality, from its sides. Its foliage too is thin, and wants both richness and effect. If I were speaking, indeed, of this tree in com- position, I might add, that it may often appear to great advantage in a plantation. Contrast, we DESCRIPTIVE ENUMERATION OP TREES. 113 know, produces beauty even from deformity itself. Opposed therefore to the wildness of otlier trees, the regularity of the Weymouth Pine may have its beauty. Its formality may be* concealed. A few of its branches, hanging from a mass of heavier foliage, may appear light and feathery, while its spiry head may often form an agreeable apex to a clump. Having thus considered the Pine race, we next take a view of a tribe nearly allied to them — that of Firs. In what the distinction between these two tribes consists (though I apprehend it con- sists in little more than in that between genus and species), the botanist will explain. I profess myself an observer only of outward characters. What we usually call the Scotch Fir appears to me to approach nearer the Pine in its manner of growth, than it does any of its nominal class. As this tree, therefore, seems to be of ambiguous nature, at least as to its form, I shall place it here — that is immediately after the Pines, and before the Firs, that it may with facility join one party or the other, as the reader's botanical principles incline. 114 . gilhn's foeest scenery. Botanically (according to tlie arrangement of modern authorities) tlie Pines — or those trees amongst the order of Conifers included under the genus Pimis — are dis- tinguished from the Firs (comprised under the genus Ahies) by the greater length of their needle-shaped leaves, and by the grouping of the latter in sheaths enclosing two, three, and sometimes five individuals. These sheaths oncloso the groups of loaves at their bases only. In the genus Abies tho leaves are solitary, sometimes growing equally upon all sides of the twigs, and sometimes arranged in rows on each side. Another feature distinguishing Finns from Abies consists in the circumstance that, in the former, the cones grow erect on the twigs, whilst, in the latter, they are pendulous. The Scotch Fir, as it is popu- larly called, is, in reality, a Pine, being the Finns sylvestris of modern scientific nomenclature. — Ed. The Scotch Fir is supposed to be the only indi- genous terebin thine tree in this island ; and yet, though it abounds, and, when seen in perfection, is a very picturesque tree, we have little idea of its beauty. It is generally treated with great contempt. It is a hardy plant, and therefore put to every servile office. If you wish to screen your house from the soiith-west wind, plant Scotch Firs, and plant them close and thick. If you want to shelter a nursery of young trees, plant DESOEIPTIVE ENOMEKATION OP TREES. 115 Scotcli Firs ; and tlie phrase is, you may after- wards weed them out as you please. This is ignominious. I wish not to rob society of these hardy services from the Scotch Fir, nor do I mean to set it in competition with many of the trees of the forest, which, in their infant state, it is accustomed to shelter ; all I mean is, to rescue it from the disgrace of being thought fit for nothing else, and to establish its character as a picturesque tree. For myself, I admire its foli- age — both the colour of the leaf, and its mode of growth. Its ramification, too, is irregular and beautiful, and not unlike that of the Stone Pine, which it resembles also in the easy sweep of its stem, and, likewise, in the colour of the bark, which is commonly, as it attains age, of a rich reddish brown. The Scotch Fir indeed, in its stripling state, is less an object of beauty. Its pointed and spiry shoots, during the first years of its growth, are formal ; and yet I have sometimes seen a good contrast produced between its spiry points, and the round-headed Oaks and Elms in its neighbourhood. "When I speak, however, of the Scotch Fir as a beautiful individual, I conceive it, 116 Gilpin's forest soenert. wlien it has outgrown all the more unpleasant cir- cumstances of its youtli — when it has completed its full age — and when, like Ezekiel's Cedar, it has formed its head among the Ihich Iranches. I may be singular in my attachment to the Scotch Fir ; I know it has many enemies, and that may per- haps induce me to be more compassionate to it : however, I wish my opinion in its favour may weigh no more than the reasons I give to support it. The great contempt, indeed, in which the Scotch Fir is commonly held, arises, I believe, from two causes. People object first to its colour. Its dark, murky hue, we are told, is unpleasing. With regard to colour in general, I think I speak the language of painting when I assert, that the picturesque eye makes little distinction in this matter. It has no attachment to one colour in preference to another, but considers the beauty of all colouring as resulting, not from the colours themselves, but almost entirely from their harmony with other colours in their neighbourhood. So that, as the Fir Tree is supported, combined, or stationed, it forms a pleasing tint or a murky spot. DESOEIPTIVE ENUMERATION OF TREES. 117 A second source of tliat contempt in wHcli tlie Scotcli Eir is commonly held, is our rarely seeing it in a picturesque state. Scotcli Firs are seldom planted as single trees, or in a judicious group ; but generally in close, compact bodies, in thick array, •wliicli suffocates or cramps them, and if they ever get loose from this bondage, they are already ruined. Their lateral branches are gone, and their stems are drawn into poles, on which their heads appear stuck as on a centre. Whereas if the tree had grown in its natural state, all mis- chief had been prevented. Its stem would have taken an easy sweep, and its lateral branches, which naturally grow with as much beaiitiful irregularity as those of deciduous trees, would have hung loosely and negligently ; and the more so, as there is something pecidiarly light and feathery in its foliage. I mean not to assert that every Scotch Fir, though in a natural state, would possess these beauties ; but it would at least have the chance of other trees, and I have seen it, though indeed but rarely, in such a state as to equal in beauty the most elegant Stone Pine. All trees, indeed, crowded together, naturally lis GILrm's FOEJUST SCENERY. rise in perpendicular stems ; but the Fir has this peculiar disadvantage, that its lateral branches, once injured, never shoot again. A grove of crowded saplings — Elms, Beeches, or almost of any deciduous trees — when thinned, will throw out new lateral branches, and, in time, recover a state of beauty; but if the education of the Fir has been neglected, he is lost for ever. Some of the most picturesque trees of this kind perhaps in England, adorn Mr. Lenthall's de- serted and ruinous mansion of Basilsleigh, in Berkshire. The soil is a deep, but rich sand, which seems to be adapted to them ; and, as they are here at perfect liberty, they not only become large and noble trees, but expand themselves like- wise in all the careless forms of Nature. Very noble Scotch Firs, also, may be seen at Thirkleby, near Thirsk, in Yorkshire. Nor has any man, I think, a right to depreciate the Scotch Fir till he has seen it in a perfect state of Nature. An undoubted claim can be made, by those wlio have seen it in a perfect state of nature, to rank the Scotch Fir (Pinus sylvestris) as both a beautiful and a picturesque tree. Yet, the popular prejudice against it, referred to by DBSOEIPTIVJ]! BNUMBEATION OP TREES. 119 Gilpin still exists, in a certain degree, in England : and | nothing, perhaps, has tended more to increase that preju- dice during recent years than the proceedings adopted by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests in dealing with the beautiful woodlands endeared to the Author of this ' Forest Scenery ' by an acquaintance extending over a long period of years. Since 1851 and until the work of destruction was condemnecT by the united voice"of public opinion, and finally stopped by Parliament, gF^tTracts of theNew Forest_were_c]^Tj:ed ofth^^ of ancient and picturesque trees to make room for m ono- tonous plantations of Scotch„Fii; . This tree, therefore, is associated, in the public mind, with attempts to destroy the most beautiful remnants of primeval wood existing in this country, and to wrest from the people of England one of the dearest and most prized of the heritages of ancient times. Mr. E. K. Lenthall, of Bessels Leigh Manor (a descen- dant of Speaker Lenthall), informs us that one only of the Scotch Firs at Bessels Leigh is now standing, and that it (with the others, which were cut down by his grandfather, about the year 1800) was ' probably planted either by Speaker Lenthall or his son. Sir Charles Lent- hall, in the reign of Charles L' Of the Thirkleby Firs— we learn from the Eev. T. H. Smith, the vicar of the parish — there are still standing at least seventeen or eighteen in the Park, the seat of Sir W. P. Gallwey, Bart.— Ed. The Spruce I'ir is generally esteemed a more 120 Gilpin's porest sceneey. beautiful and elegant tree tlian the Scotch. Fir ; and the reason, I suppose, is because it often feathers to the ground, and grows in a more exact and regular shape. Biit this, in a pic- turesque light, is a principal objection to it. It wants both form and variety. We admire its floating foliage, in which it sometimes exceeds all other trees ; but it is rather disagreeable to see a repetition of these feathery strata, beautiful as they are, reared, tier above tier, in regular order, from the bottom of a tree to the top. Its perpen- dicular stem, also, which has seldom any lineal variety, makes the appearance of the tree still more formal. It is not always, however, that the Spruce Fir grows with so much regularity. Sometimes a lateral branch, taking the lead, breaks somewhat through the order commonly observed, and forms a few chasms, which have a good effect. When this is the case the Spruce Fir ranks among picturesque trees. Sometimes the effect is as good, and, in many circumsta,nces, better, when the contrast appears still stronger — when the tree is shattered by some accident, has lost many of DESOEIPTIVE ENUMBEATION OF TREES. 121 its brandies, and is scathed and ragged. A featliery branch here and there, among broken stumps, has often a good effect, but it must arise from the wild situation of the tree. On an embelhshed lawn it would be improper. In all circumstances, however, the Spruce Fir appears best either as a single tree, or unmixed with any of its fellows, for neither it, nor any of the spear- headed race, will ever form a beautiful clump without the assistance of other trees. The Silver Eir has very little to boast in point of picturesque beauty. It has all the regularity of the Spruce, but without its floating foliage. There is a sort of harsh, stiff, unbending formality in the stem, the branches, and in the whole economy of the tree, which makes it disagreeable. We rarely see it, even in the happiest state, assume a picturesque shape. Assisted it may be in its form, when broken and shattered, but it will rarely get rid of its formality. In old age it stands the best chance of attaining beauty. We sometimes see it under that circumstance, shattered by winds, adorned with Ivy, and shooting out a few horizontal branches, on which its meagre 122 gii.pin's forest scen^eey. foliage and tufted moss appear to advantage. I may add, tliat tlie Silver Fir is perliaps tlie hardiest of its tribe. It will out-face tlie soutli-west vyind ; it will bear witliout shrinking even tlie sea-air ; so that one advantage, at least, attends a plantation of Silver Mrs ; you may have it, where you can have no other, and a plantation of Silver Firs may be better than no plantation at all. At the same time I have heard that it is nice in its soil, and that an improver may be liable to disappointment who plants it in ground where the Oak will not thrive. I know of no other species of Fir in England that is Avorth mentioning. The Hemlock Spruce is a beautiful loose plant, but it never, I believe, attains any size ; and the Newfoundland, or Black Spruce, is another dwarfish tree. In that cha- racter, however, it is often beautiful, and its small red cones are an ornament to it. In the vast Pine forests of North America, and in those which hang beetling over the cliffs of the Baltic, the picturesque eye might probably see many a grand production of the Fir kind which is hitherto little known, or, if known, would appear there in so improved a character, as to seem wholly new. In DESOEIPTIVE ENUMERATION OE TREES. 123 the northern parts of Asia, also, and in the southern parts of Africa, I doubt not but the Fir may be found in great variety and perfection. In Philip's voyage to Botany Bay, we are told of Pines in Norfolk Island of an immense size. Later accounts make some of these Pines, which have been measured by a quadrant, to have attained the wonderful height of two hundred and thirty feet. They bear cones ; but the wood, from a sample brought into England (in the possession of Sir Joseph Banks), does not appear like deal, but is much heavier, the grain considerably closer, and the colour browner. The girth of the tree, from which this sample was cut, was eighteen feet. The first branches were at the elevation of thirty yards, but I could not learn whether this circum- stance was a general character of the tree, or peculiar only to that individual. Strabo, indeed, tells us that the Fir is wholly a European plant — that it is never to be met with in any part of Asia — and that it may even be considered, in all those places where Europe and Asia border on each other, as a distinguishing mark of European ground. On the Asiatic side of the Tanais, he I 124 Gilpin's foxiest scenert. tells us, it is never found, though on the European side it is so common, that tlie Scythians, who inhabit those parts, use it always in making arrows. He treats Eratosthenes with some con- ternpt for asserting that when Alexander was in India, he used Eir in constructing his navy.* Strabo's accuracy is generally much respected, but in this instance his observations seem to have been confined. There is little doubt, I think, that •the Fir abounded in many parts of Asia : it was probably as much a native of Mou.nt Lebanon, as the Cedar itself.f Neither tlie Hemlock SiDruce {Ahies canadensis) nor the Black Spruce (Ahies nigra) can be properly described as ' dwarfish,' as they reach a height of seventy or eighty feet, the latter sometimes rising a hundred feet. — Ed. After the Pine and Eir tribes, the Yew deserves our notice. The Yew is a pure native of Britain, and was formerly what the Oak is now, the basis * See lib. ii., p. 510, edit. Caus. t After all, however, it is probable that the word eXarr], which the Latins translate ahies, and we translate j^Z?', might appear to he somewhat very different from the tree which we call a fir, if we had a Grecian botanist to consult. DBSOEIPTTVB ENUMEEATION OP TEJ5ES. 125 of our strength. Of it tlie old Bnglisli yeoman made his long-bow, which, hev aunted, nobody but an Englishman could bend. In shooting he did not, as in other nations, keep his left hand steady, and draw his bow with his right ; but, keeping his right at rest upon the nerve, he pressed the whole weight of his body into the horns of his bow.* Hence probably arose the English phrase of bend- ing a how, and the French of drawing one. Nor is the Yew celebrated only for its tough- ness and elasticity, but also for its durable nature. "Where your paling is most exposed either to winds or springs, strengthen it with a post of old Yew. That hardy veteran fears neither storms above nor damps below. It is a common saying among the inhabitants of New Forest, that a post of Yew will outlast a post of iron. Thus much for the utility and dignity of the Yew. As to its picturesque perfections-, I profess myself (contrary I suppose to general opinion) a great admirer of its form and foliage. The Yew is of all other trees the most tonsile. Hence all * Soo Ep. LaUincr's Sormons, Scrm. vi. I 2 126 Gilpin's porest soeneuy. the indignities it suffers. We everywhere see it cut and metamorphosed into such a variety of de- formities, that we are hardly brought to conceive it has a natural shape, or the power, which other trees have, of hanging with ease. Yet it has this power in a great degree, and, in a state of Nature, except in exposed situations, is perhaps one of the most beautiful evergreens we have. Indeed, I know not whether, all things considered, it is not superior to the Cedar of Lebanon itself — I mean to such meagre representatives of that noble plant as we have in England. The same soil which cramps the Cedar is congenial to the Yew. It is but seldom, however, that we see the Yew in perfection. In New Forest it formerly abounded, but it is now much scarcer. It does not rank among timber trees, and being thus, in a degree, unprivileged, and unprotected by forest laws, it has often been made booty of by those who durst not lay violent hands on the Oak, or the Ash. But still, in many parts of the forest, some noble specimens of this tree are left. One I have often visited, which is a tree of peculiar beauty. It immediately divides into several massy limbs, DESOEIPTIVE ENUMERATION OP TEEBS. 127 each of wbict, hanging in grand loose fohage, spreads over a large compass of ground, and yet the whole tree forms a close, compact body : that is, its boughs are not so separated, as to break into distinct parts. It cannot boast the size of the Yew tree at Fotheringal, near Taymouth in Scotland, which measures fifty-six feet and a half in circumference : nor indeed the size of many others on record ; but it has suflBLcient size for all the purposes of landscape, and in point of pic- turesque beauty it probably equals any of them. It stands not far from the banks of Lymington river, on the left bank as you look towards the sea, between Roydon Farm and Boldre Church. It occupies a small knoll, surrounded with other trees, some of which are Yews, but of inferior beauty. A little stream washes the base of the knoll and winding round forms it into a peninsula. If any one should have curiosity to visit it from this description, and by the help of these landmarks, I doubt not but he may find it, at any time, within the space of these two or three cen- tui^ies, in great perfection if it suffer no external injury. If such trees were common, they would 128 Gilpin's porest sceneby. recover tlie character of the Yew Tree among the admirers of picturesque beauty. But though we should be able to estabhsh its beauty with respect to form and foliage, there re- mains one point still, which we should find it hard to combat. Its colour unfortunately gives of- fence. Its dingy, funereal hue, people say, makes it fit only for a churchyard. This objection, I hope, I have already answered in defending the colour of the Scotch Fir.* An attachment to colour, as such, seems to me an indication of false taste. Hence arise the nu- merous absurdities of gaudy decoration. In the same manner, a dislike to any particular colour shows a squeamishness which should as little be encouraged. Indeed, when you have only one colour to deal with, as in painting the wainscot of your room, the eye, properly enough, gives a pre- ference to some soft, pleasant tint in opposition to a glaring, bold one ; but when colours act in con- cert (as is the case in all scenery), red, blue, yellow, light-green, or dingy green, are all alike. * See page IIG. DESOEIPTIVE ENUMERATION OE TREES. 129 The virtue of each consists solely iu its agreement with its neighbours. I have only to add in commendation of this tree, that its veins exceed in beauty those of most other trees. Tables made of Yew, when the grain is fine, are much superior to Mahogany ; and its root vies in beauty with the ancient Citron. The famous Yew at Portiugall (Gilpin spells tlie word Fotlieriugal) is still in existence, and we liave been favoured by Mr. James Gaudie, of Perth, with some interesting particulars of it, gathered during a visit which he paid to it in 1876. He found, he says, very little of the original tree existing, ' there being only about seven or eight feet of the trunk still standing, or rather reclin- ing, on the dyke which now encloses it from the farther inroads of relic hunters.' ' It stands,' he adds, ' at the end of the parish church, in the burying ground.' What remains of it now, however, affords but little indication of the enormous proportions it is said once to have possessed. Round the trunk, and from the remains of the trunk, shoots have sprung up, and are growing luxuriantly to a height of about fifteen or twenty feet, bidding fair, in time, to rival the venerable antiquity of the parent tree.' This singularly ancient sylvan ruin is computed to be between 2500 and 2700 years of age ! The Rev. Edward H. Elers, the present vicar of JBoldre, and the occupier of 130 Gilpin's forest scbnert. Gilpin's ' Vicar's Hill,' informs us that the yew referred to by Gilpin as being 'of peculiar beauty/ and as grow- ing between Roydon Farm and Boldre Church, is still ' in a flourishing condition/ and ' stands isolated as before.' It is situated, he tells us, 'about one hundred yards beyond the mill on the church side.' — Ed. The Ilex, or Evergreen Oak, presents a cliaracter very different from that of the Yew. The Yew is a close-bodied, compact tree. The Ilex is gene- rally thin and straggling, though we sometimes see it, in soils which it likes, form a thicker foliage. Both the Yew and the Ilex are beautiful, but in dif- ferent ways. As an individual, the Yew is greatly superior. It is an object to admire. The beauty of the Ilex arises chiefly from situation and contrast. Under this head may be classed another Oak, nearly an evergreen, a late production of singular origin, called the Luccomb Oak, from the person who raised it. It was produced from an acorn of the common Turkey Oak — from which all the Luccomb Oaks have been grafted — as I understand the seed of accidental varieties never produce the same plant. I have heard much of the beauty of this tree, and of the acquisition it will be to DESOBIPTIVE ENUMEEATION OF TREES. 131 winter scenery, by tlie introduction of a new and beautiful evergreen. It may be so. Its growth, I am told, is rapid. But from the few plants I have seen of this stock, and those but young, no judgment can well be formed. The Holly can hardly be called a tree, though it is a large shrub. It is a plant, however, of singular beauty. Mr. Evelyn, in his ' Sylva,' cries out with rapture : ' Is there under heaven a more glorious and refreshing object of the kind than an impenetrable hedge of about four hundred feet in length, nine feet high, and five in diameter, which I can show in my garden at Say's Court, at any time of the year, ghttering with its armed and varnished leaves ; the taller standards at orderly distances blushing with their natural coral — shorn and fashioned into columns and pilasters, archi- tectionally shaped, at due distance ? ' Though we cannot accord with the learned naturalist in the whole of this rapturous enco- mium on the hedge at Say's Court, yet in part we agree with him, and admire, as much as he does, the Holly glittering with its armed and var- nished leaves, and blushing with its natural coral. 132 Gilpin's toeest soenbet. But we could, wisli to recommend it not in a hedge but in a forest, where, mixed with Oak or Ash, or other trees of the wood, it contributes to form the most beautiful scenes, blending itself with the trunks and skeletons of the winter, or with the varied greens of summer. But in its combined state we shall have occasion hereafter to mention it. At present we shall only observe that, as far as an individual bush can be beautiful, the Holly is extremely so. It has, besides, to recommend it, that it is among the hardiest and stoutest plants of English growth. It thrives in all soils and situations. At Dungeness, in Kent, I have heard, it flourishes even among the pebbles of the beach. Oar British Holly {Ilex aquifolium) can fally claim the honour of being called a tree, though, ordinarily, it is seen only as a shrub. Some of the finest examples of its tree growths are to be found in the New Porest. But what are now trees in that beautiful woodland were probably shrubs only in Gilpin's time. Specimens with trunks from three to five feet in circumference are plentful, and we recently saw and measured one Holly near Lyndhurst with a girth near the ground of nine feet ! We heartily agree with Gilpin, in his admiration of the beauty of Ilea; DESCRIPTIVE ENUMEEATION OF TfiEBS. 133 oquifolium, and we pi-efer to see it, as he does, growing not in a thick-set aad impenetrable hedge of a regular length, breadth, and height, but in the freedom of the forest. On the beach called the Holmestone, within the district of Dungeness, there is still a very large number of Holly bushes growing. Within the memory of persons still living in the neighbourhood, there wore large Holly trees there, but they have been cut down and carried awaj'-, and the highest of those now existing do not exceed fifteen feet. It is believed that these Hollies were originally planted on this beach, and it is said that at one time herons used to build their nests in them. — Ed. The Hawthorn should not entirely be passed over amidst the minuter plants of the forest, though it has little claim to picturesque beauty. In song, indeed, the shepherd may with propriety ' TeU his tale Under the Hawthorn in the dale.' But when the scenes of Nature are presented to the eye, it is but a poor appendage. Its shape is bad. It does not taper and point hke the Holly, but is rather a matted, round, heavy bush. Its fragrance indeed is great ; but its bloom, which is the source of that fragrance, is spread over it in too much profusion. It becomes a mere white 134 gilhn's forest scenery. sheet — a bright spot, wlaicli is seldom found in harmony with the objects around it. In autumn the Hawthorn makes its best appearance. Its glowing berries produce a rich tint, which often adds great beauty to the corner of a wood or the side of some crowded clump.' We mnst here venture to differ from our Author in his estimation of the Hawthorn ; for we consider it, not as a ' poor appendage ' to the scenes of Nature, but as-ameagg^ one of the most picturesque. Nor is it a bush merely, though commonly seen in this form, but a tree of fair dimensions when growing in a forest. "We have indeed seen some fine specimens of Cratagus oxyacantha in the New Forest and also in Epping Forest, and have been struck by the remarkahlo picturesqueness of their gnarled and twisted stems and branches. Sir Dick Lauder, in the edition of the ' Forest Scenery,' which he published in 1834, mentions a large Hawthorn growing near the village of Duddingstone, in the county of Edinburgh. He says he measured this tree in the year 1.818, and found it, at three feet above the root, nine feet in girth, and, a little way above the roots, twelve feet round ! The Hawthorn too, is, we think, extremely beautiful in leaf, flower, and fruit, and one of the most delightful sights in the forest, in the early spring, is that afforded by the contrast be- tween the golden green foliage of the Hawthorn and the more sombre colours of the woodland. — Ed. SECTION V. SPRAY AND POLIAGE. ^fB have tlius endeavoured to mark the 'principal characteristics of pic- turesque beauty, in tlie most com- mou trees we have in England. But to have a more accurate idea of their nice peculiarities and dis- tinctions, we should examine their smaller parts with a little more precision — their ramification in winter, as well as the mass of foliage which they exhibit in summer. Their ramification, in part, we have already considered; but it has only been that of the larger boughs, which support the foliage, and such as we commonly see under the masses of it when in full leaf. Winter discovers the nicer 136 Gilpin's forest scenery. parts of tlie ramification — tlie little tender spray on wticli the hanging of the foliage and the peculiar character of the tree so much depend. The study is certainly useful. It is true it has none of the larger parts of painting for its ob- ject — composition — or the massing of light and shade : but we consider it as necessary for those to understand, who wish either to be acquainted with the particular character of each tree, or its general effect. Nor is it an unpleasing study. There is much variety in the ramification of each species ; and much also in that of each individual. We see everywhere so many elegant lines, so much oppo- sition and rich intersection among them, that there are few more beautiful objects in Nature, than the ramification of a tree. For myself, I am in doubt whether an old, rough, interwoven Oak, merely as a single object, has not as much beauty in winter, as in summer. In summer it has unquestionably more effect ; but, in point of simple beauty and amusement, I think I should almost prefer it in winter. Sl'EAT AND FOLIAGE. 137 If a man were disposed to moralize, the rami- fication and spray of a thriving tree afford a good theme. Nothing gives a happier idea of busy life. Industry and activity pervade every part. Wherever an opening, how minute soever, appears, there some little knot of busy adventurers push in and form a settlement : so that the whole is everywhere full and complete. There too, as is common in all communities, are many little elbow- ings, justlings, thwartings, and oppositions, in which some gain and others lose.* * As a continuation of this moralizing strain, the following short allegory ventures to appear in a note : — TJt sylva3 foliis pronos mutantur in annos ; Prima oadunt ; ita Dehemur morti nos, nostraque As I sat carelessly at my window and threw my eyes npon a large Acacia which grew before me, I conceived it might aptly represent a country divided into provinces, towns, and families. The larger branches might hold out the first, the smaller branches, connected with them, the second, and those com- binations of collateral leaves, which specify the Acacia, might represent families composed of individuals. It was now late in the year, and the autumnal tint had taken possession of great part of the tree. As I sat looking at it, many of the yellow leaves (which having been produced earlier, decayed sooner) were continually 138 Gilpin's forest sceneey. In examining the spray of trees, I shall con- fine myself to the Oak, the Ash, the Elm, and the dropping into the lap of their great motlior. Here was an emblem of natural decay — the most ohvious appearance of mortality. As I continued looking, a gentle breeze rustled among the leaves. Many fell, which in a natural course might have enjoyed life longer. Here malady was added to decay. The blast increased ; and every branch that presented itself bowed before it. A shower of leaves covered the ground. ' The cup of vengeance,' said I, ' is poured out upon the people. Pestilence shakes the land. Nature sickens in the gale. They fall by multitudes. Whole families are cut off together.' Among the branches was one entirely withered. The leaves were shrivelled ; yet clinging to it. Here was an emblem of famine. The nutriment of life was stopped. Existence was just supported : but every form was emaciated and shrunk. In the neighbourhood stretched a branch, not only shrivelled and withered, but, having been more exposed to winds, was stripped almost entirely of its leaves. Here and there hung a solitary leaf, just enough to show that the whole had lately been alive. ' Ah ! ' said I, ' here is an emblem of depopulation. Some violent cause hath laid waste the land. Towns and villages, as well as families, are desolated. Scarce ten are left to bemoan a thousand.' How does everything around us bring its lesson to our minds ! Nature is the great book of God. In every page is instruction to those who read. Mortality must claim its due. Death in various shapes hovers round us. Thus far went the heathen moralist. He had learned no other knowledge from these perishing forms of Nature, but that men, like trees, are subject to death. SPRAT AND FOLIAGE. 139 Beecli. It would be endless to run through the ■whole forest. Nor is it necessary. The exami- nation of these few principal trees will show how consequential a part the spray is in fixing the character of the tree. There is as much difference in the spray as there is in the foliage, or in any other particular. At the same time, if a painter be accurate, in a certain degree, in his delineation of some of the more capital trees, in others his accuracy is of little consequence : nay an en- deavour at precision would be stiff and pedantic. In the spray of the four species of trees just mentioned and, I doubt not, in that of all other trees, Nature seems to observe one simple prin- ciple, which is, that the mode of growth in the Ita Debemur morti nos, nostraque Better instructed, learn tliou a nobler lesson. Learn, that that God who ■with the blast of winter shrivels the tree, and with the breezes of spring restores it, offers it to thee as an emblem of thy hopes. The saiije God presides over the natural and moral world. His works are uniform. The truths which Nature teaches,, as far as they go, are the truths of revelation also. It is written' ih both these books' that that power which revives the tree will revive thee also, like it, with increasing perfection. 14<0 Gilpin's toeest, scenery. spray corresponds exactly witli that of the larger branches, of which, indeed, the spray is the origin. Thus the Oak divides his boughs from the stem more horizontally than most other deciduous trees. The spray makes exactly, in miniature, the same appearance. It breaks out in right angles, or in angles that are nearly so, forming its shoots, commonly, in short lines, the second year's shoot usually taking some direction contrary to that of the first. Thus the rudiments are laid of that abrupt mode of ramification for which the Oak is remarkable. When two shoots spring from the same knot they are commonly of un- equal length, and one, with large strides, generally takes the lead. Very often also three shoots, and sometimes four, spring from the same knot. Hence the spray of the Oak becomes thick, close, and interwoven ; so that, at a little distance, it has a full, rich appearance, and more of the pic- turesque roughness than we observe in the spray of any other tree. The spray of the Oak, also, generally springs in such directions as give its branches that horizontal appearance which they generally assume. 'GILPIN'S FOREST SCENERY.' Ill Spray of the Oak. \_rage 140. Ramification of the Oak. {Page 140. oiu'in's forest scenery.' 143 Spray of the Ash. IPac^e 145. Ramification of tlie Ash. [Pa^e 145. SPBAY AND FOLIAGE. 145 The spray of the Ash is very different. As the boughs of the Ash are less complex, so is its spray. Instead of the thick, intermingled bushiness which the spray of the Oak exhibits, that of the Ash is much more simple, running in a kind of irregular parallels. The main stem holds its course, form- ing at the same time a beautiful sweep ; but the spray does not divide like that of the Oak, from the extremity of the last year's shoot, but springs from the sides of it. Two shoots spring out opposite to each other, and each pair in a con- trary direction. Rarely, however, both the shoots of either side come to maturity; one of them is commonly lost as the tree increases, or, at least, makes no appearance in comparison with the other, which takes the lead. So that, notwith- standing this natural regularity of growth, (so injurious to • the beauty of the Spruce Fir and some other trees), the Ash never contracts the least disgusting formality from it. It may even receive great picturesque beauty, for sometimes the whole branch is lost as far as one of the lateral shoots, and this occasions a kind of rectangular junction, which forms a beautiful 146 Gilpin's forest sceneky. contrast with the other spray, and gives an elegant mode of hanging to the tree. This points out another difference between the spray of the Oak and that of the Ash. The spray of the Oak seldom shoots from the under- sides of the branches ; and it is this, chiefly, which keeps the branches in a horizontal form. But the spray of the Ash, often breaking out on the underside of the branch, forms very elegant pendent boughs, f U'- ^f*" "1' • '^1 'i '^-^/-i^'^ij^^ ) The branch of the Elm has neither the strength nor the various abrupt twistings of the Oak, nor does it shoot so much in horizontal directions. Such also is the spray. It has a more regular appearance, not starting off at right angles, but forming its shoots more acutely with the parent branch. Neither does the spray of the Elm shoot like that of the Ash, in regular pairs, from the same knot, but in a kind of alternacy. It has generally, at first, a flat appearance ; but, as one year's shoot is added to another, it has not strength to support itself ; and, as the tree grows old, it often becomes pendent also, like the Ash : whereas the toughness 'GIU'IN'S I'OKliST SCENERY.' 147 Spiay of tlie Elm. iPase 146. Spray of the Beech. [.Page 149- Ramification of the Beech. [Page 149. SPRAY AND POLIAGB. 149 and strength of the Oak enable it to stretch out its branches horizontally to the very last twig. I have seen an Oak with pendent branches, but it is not common. The spray of the Beech observes the same kind of alternacy as that of the Elm ; but it shoots in angles still more acute, the distance between each twig is wider, and it forms a kind of zigzag course. We esteem the Beech, also, in some degree a pendent tree as well as the Ash ; but there is a wide difference between them. The Ash is a light, airy tree, and its spray hangs in elegant, loose foliage; but the hanging- spray of the Beech, in old trees especially, is often twisted and intermingled disagreeably, and has a per- plexed, matted appearance. The whole tree gives US something of the idea of an entangled head of bushy hair, from which, here and there, hangs a disorderly lock ; while the spray of the Ash, like hair neither neglected nor finically nice, has nothing squalid in it, and yet hangs in loose and easy curls. The spray of trees puts on different appear- 150 Gilpin's foe-est scenery. ances as tlie spring advances. When tlieir buds begin to swell, most of them push out a bloom which overspreads them with great richness. But of all others, the Ash presents the most singular and beatitiful aspect. Aboiit the end of March or the beginning of April, it throws out a knotty bloom which, opening gradually, not only enriches the spray, but is itself one of the most beautiful among the miniature appearances of Nature. The seminal stems are of an olive tint, and each of them is tipped with a black seed. Often, too, the spray of the Ash is enriched by the 1 ragged remnants of the keys and tongues of the i last year, which, mixed with the bloom, have a good effect. The Elm, too, throws out a beautiful bloom, in form of a spicated ball, about the bigness of a nutmeg, of a dark crimson colour. This bloom sometimes blows in such profusion as to thicken and enrich the spray exceedingly, even to the fulness almost of foliage. It is not, however, often seen in such perfection. In the sprino- of the year 1776 it was more than commonly profuse. Indeed the bloom of forest trees in SPEAY AND FOLIAGE. 151 general is rarely annual ; it appears in profusion only every second or third year, and even then seldom all the trees of the same kind bloom at once. Thus, when you look into a grove of Oaks, about the beginning of May, you will suppose, perhaps, that some are much forwarder in leaf than others, whereas, in fact, this appearance chiefly arises from their being in bloom — their little pensile catkins hanging in knots, adorned with tufts of young leaves. Having thus made a few observations on the forms of trees, their different modes of growth and other peculiarities, I should add that I am far from supposing Nature to act always in exact conformity to the appearances which I have here marked. In the general mode of growth which each species observes, no doubt she is uniform ; but in the particular m,anner in which the stem rises, the branches shoot, the foliage hangs, and, indeed, if I may so speak, in the specific character of each individual, many circumstances will make a difference, soil and climate especially. These have the same effect on the form of trees which they have on animal life. We not only see distant 152 gilpin's forest scenebx. parts of the earth, but even contiguous countries exhibit varieties in the same species of animals. The Enghsh and Scotch horse are very different creatures ; and, as chmates and soils are still more connected with trees than with animals, we may observe a greater difference produced within a smaller distance. The Oak of one country diflTers in form from the Oak of another. In one, it carries an erect stem for many yards from the ground; in another, its branches begin quickly to divide and straggle. In the former situation, the foliage may be thick and interwoven ; in the latter, it may be thin and meagre. The observa- tions therefore which we have made on the form of trees cannot, in many minute circumstances, be supposed to suit the individuals of every country. They were chiefly made on the trees of New Forest in Hampshire, the soil of which, in general, is a hungry gravel or a cold clay. SECTION VI. CELEBRATED TEEES. SHOULD now dismiss the subject of trees as individuals, and hasten to consider them in a combined state, in which they will appear to most advantage; but, as many- trees, as well as men, have distin- guished themselves in the world, it seemed proper to dedicate a few pages to the particular mention of some of these celebra.ted characters, before I conclude that part of my treatise which is professedly written to do honour to single trees. But first, it cannot be enough lamented by the lovers of landscape that we meet with so few of these noble characters. Trees, indeed, sufficient 154 Gilpin's forest soeneey. for all the purposes of distant scenery, we often find ; but a tree in full perfection, as a grand object to grace a foreground, is rarely seen. Wherever trees can be turned to profit, they are commonly cut down, long before they attain pic- turesque perfection. The beauty of almost every species of tree increases after its prime ; and, unless it have the good fortune to stand in some place of difficult access, or under the protection of , some patron whose mansion it adorns, we rarely see it in that grandeur and dignity which it would acquire by age. Gilpin's lament mighty unfortunately, be truthfully re-echoed in our own day. In few places, indeed, can we now find trees in full perfection except where they are ' under the protection of some patron,' whose mansion they adorn, or who takes a pride in possessing and preserving them ; or when they stand in some public park or in the few woodlands which are still left to us. So called ' utility ' — wbich is often another name for private or corporate greed — is very commonly made an excuse for the destruc- tion of beautiful trees. Many of the trees which still remain with us in public places owe their existence to the large-hearted efforts of public- spirited individuals who, however, are seldon successful in saving noble trees except by the matter-of-fact method of purchasing their CELEBRATED TREES. 155 redemption of the owners and would-be destroyers. Happily, it is not difficult to discern that a better spirit is getting abroad, and we hope that before very long the desire for tree planting and preservation may every-' where overcome the mania for cutting thom down. — Ed. Some of the noblest Oaks in England were at least formerly found in Sussex. They required sometimes a score of oxen to draw them, and were carried in a sort of wain, which in that deep counti'y is expressively called a tug. Two or three years was not an uncommon space of time for a tree to spend in performing its journey to Chatham. One tug carried the load but a little way, and left it for another tug to take up. If the rains set in, it stirred no more that year; and, sometimes, no part of the next summer was dry enough for the tug to proceed. So that the timber was generally pretty well seasoned before it arrived at the king's yard. I suppose the same mode of carriage still continues.* * To the lover of landscape it is almost a matter of regret that the circumstances of the time are now so vastly altered as, by the greatly increased facilities of land carriage, to make it so much more easy than it used to be to compass the destruction and removal of trees. — Ed. 156 Gilpin's foeest scenery. In this fallen state alone, it is true, the tree becomes the basis of England's glory. Though we regret its fall, therefore, we must not repine, but address the children of the wood as the gallant Oak, on his removal from the forest, is said to have addressed the scion by his side : — ' Where thy great grandsire spread his awful shade, A holy druid mystic circles made. Myself a sapling, when thy grandsire hore Intrepid Edward to the Gallic shore. Me now my country calls ; Adieu, my son, And as the circling years in order run, May'st thou, renown'd, the forest's hoast and pride. Victorious in some future contest ride.' Nobody, that I know, has more pathetically lamented the fall of trees than the elegant Vanier. Whoever has a taste for the subject will be gratified by the following quotation : — ' Neque enim villis accedere major Possit honos, densa quam nuhilus arbore lucus. Sylvarum studiosa, suos cum Gallia quondam Vix aleret cives, patria migi-are relicta, Atque peregrinos alio deferre penates Maluit, excisis victum quam quterere sylvis. Hsec uhi jam nemorum reverentia tanta, hipennes TJt teneat t nostros uhi grandior ulla per agros Quercus ad annosam, ferri secura, senectam CELEBRATED TREES. 157 Durat 1 inaccessis nisi consita montibus, ipso Se defensa loco tueatur : si c[ua supersunt A patribus neniora ad seros transmissa nepotes, Ilia neo eestivo frondent impervia soli, Nobile nee coelo caput abdant, qualia quondam Vulgus adorabat truncis procera verendis. Sed veteri de stirpe, novo aurgentia ranio, Et quatuor post lustra nigros visura caminos, Vix lepori hospitium prsebent, sylvestribus oliiri QusB tiniidas latebris damas ursosque tegebant. Ecquis konos ruris, nemorum si gratia desit ; Obsessusque domi maneas, cum Sirius ardens Debaccbatur agris ; viridique sub ilicis umbra Irriguo possis neo traders fessa sopori Membra, nee asstivos ramorum frigore soles Erangere, nee taciti per arnica silentia luci, Multisonos avium coneentus inter, ad ajjtos Sponte sua veniens numeros, contexere carmen.' * Gilpin's translation of these lines is as follows : — ' No greater beauty can adorn The hamlet, than a grove of ancient Oak. Ah ! how unlike their sires of elder times The sons of Gallia now ! They, in each tree, Dreading some unknown power, dared not to lift An axe : though scant of soil, they rather sought Eor distant herbage than molest their groves. Now all is spoil and violence. Where now Exists an Oak whose venerable stem Has seen three centuries ? unless some steep, * Pra3d. rusticum, lib. v. 158 Gilpin's poeest sceneuy. To human footstep inaccessible, Defend a favour'd plant. Now, if some sire Leave to his heir a forest-scene : that heir With graceless hands hews down each awful trunk, Worthy of Druid reverence ; there he rears A paltry copse, destined, each twentieth year, To blaze inglorious on the hearth. Hence woods. Which shelter'd once the stag and grisly hoar. Scarce to the timorous hare sure refuge lend. !Farewell each rural virtue with the love Of rural scenes. Sage Contemplation wings Her ilight. 'No more from burning suns she seeks A cool retreat. No more the poet sings. Amid re-echoing groves, his moral lay.' — Ed. As it is thus a general complaint that noble trees are rarely to be found, we must seek them where we can, and consider them, when found, as matters of curiosity, and pay them a due respect. And yet I should suppose they are not so fre- quently found in a state of nature as in more cultivated countries. In the forests of America, and other scenes where boundless woods have filled the plains from the beginning of time, and where they grow so close, and cover the ground with so impervious a shade, that even a weed can scarce rise beneath them, the single tree is lost. Unless it stand on the outskirts of the wood, it is CELEBRATED TEEES. 159 circumscribed, and has not room to expand its vast limbs, as Nature directs. When we wish, therefore, to find the most subHme sylvan cha- racter — the Oak, the Elm, or the Ash in perfec- tion, we must not look for it in close, thick woods, but standing single, independent of all connexions, as we sometimes find it in our own forests, though oftener in better protected places, shooting its head wildly into the clouds, and spreading its arms towards every wind of heaven. ' Tlie Oak Thrives by the rude concussion of the storm. Pie seems indignant ; and to feel The impression of the blast with proud disdain : But, deeply-earth'd, the unconscious monarch owes Plis iirm stability to what he scorns ; More fix'd below, the more disturb'd above.' There is not, perhaps, in all this country such an Elm as was, in the year 1674, cut down in the park of Sir Walter Bagot, in Staffordshire. The particulars recorded in the family are that two men were five days in felling it ; it measured forty yards to the top in length ; the stool was fifteen yards two feet in circumference ; fourteen loads were broken in the fall ; forty-eight loads were 160 Gilpin's forest scenery. contained in the top ; there were made out of it eighty pair of naves for wheels, and 8660 feet of boards and planks. It cost, at a time when labour was much lower rated than it is now, 101. 17s. for sawing. The whole substance was computed to weigh ninety-seven tons. If I chose to lengthen my catalogue of cele- brated trees, I might produce an innumerable host of such as have been mentioned casually by historians and travellers in all ages ; as the Plane- tree hanging over the Temple of Delphos, which Theophrastus supposes was as ancient as the times of Agamemnon — that, also, by which So- crates used to swear — the Olive-tree at Linturnum, planted by Scipio Africanus — the Tilia of Basil, under which the German emperors used to dine — the Malus medica at the Monastery of Fundi, reverenced by Thomas Aquinas — the Oak at Bruges, which Francis the First immured — the Lime tree in Sweden, which gave name to the family of the celebrated Linnaeus — trees which Captain Cook found in the western parts of Cali- fornia, measuring sixty feet in circumference, and rising to the height of one hundred and fifty feet CELEBRATED TREES, 161 without a single knot — solid trees -wliiclL have been scooped into canoes, capable of holding thirty or forty men ; particularly one on record, at Congo, which held two hundred. I might add, also, Arthur's table, in the county hall of Winchester, which has been cut out of a tree of immense girth.* The Cheltenham Oak also might be introduced, which as near its roots as you can walk, exceeds twenty paces round ; the Cawthorpe Oak, likewise, which, at the ground, exceeded twenty-six yards ; the Bently Oak in Holt Forest, which at seven feet from the ground, was thirty-four feet in circum- ference ; the Swilcar Oak in Needwood Foi'est, which, I believe was equal to any of them.f With an innumerable list of this kind I might swell my page ; but I reject all such trees as have either been only casually mentioned or have had their value merely ascertained by a timber- * King Artlmr's round table is now suspended over tlie judge's seat in the Nisi Prius Court in St. Stephen's Hall at Winchester. — Ed. t Many of these trees are mentioned by Mr. Evelyn, and the rest are collected from the topographical remarks of travellers and historians. 162 Gilpin's forest scenery. mercliant's rule. And yet all these liave been trees famous in their day ; some of them are still alive; and if I were writing a biographical history of trees, I should be glad to insert them, ha-^ing a reverence for them all. "Where one tree attains this noble growth, and makes itself conspicuous, thousands and ten thousands reach only the ordinary size of nature. The few pages, however, at present on my hands, I should wish to allot to such trees only as have somewhat more of history and anecdote annexed to them. Of the four oaks, last-mentioned in the preceding para- graph, two are still living — the famous Cowthorpe Oak' near Wetherby, Yorkshire, and the Swilcher (spelt Swil- car by Gilpin) Oak. In a note to his edition, published in 1834, of this ' Forest Scenery,' Sir T. Dick Lauder stated, that, at three feet from the ground, the Cowthprpe Oak measured sixteen yards, and that, close to the ground, it measured twenty-six yards in girth, its principal limb ex- tending forty-eight feet from the truuk. In the year 1718 this tree had its principal branch rent off by a storm — and the branch was found, on being accurately measured, to contain upwards of five tons of timber ! Sir T. D. Lauder adds, ' This magnificent vegetable production is still in wonderful preservation, though its foliage be thin.' His statement of the girth of this celebrated tree agrees with CELEBRATED TEEES. 163 that given by Gilpin. In a statement of the girth — at the ground — published in 1807, the measurement gives seventy-eight feet. But, in the one published in 1842, in Mr. Charles Bmpson's ' Descriptive Account ' of the Cow- thorpe Oak, the Author of that work gives his own measurement of the girth, at the ground, in the same year, as being sixty feet only. The apparent discrepancy, how- ever, in the two measurements is accounted for by the fact of the projections near the base of the tree having been covered with earth at some time during the half-century preceding 1842. The Rev. Thomas White, of Oowthorpe Rectory, in a letter to us dated the 2 7th of May last says : — ' The outline of the dear old tree is very irregular at the base/ and this circumstance, taken in conjunction with the natural decay of an old tree, detracts, of com'se, from the comparative value of recent admeasurements. Mr. White adds : — ' I have been minister here nearly thirty-five years, and I think the venerable tree has failed very much in that time.' A year or two ago, he informs us, a wood- ranger measured its present main branch and found it contained two and a half tons of wood ! The age of this specimen of sylvan magnificence is believed to be nearly 1650 years I The Swilcher Oak at Need wood in Stafford- shire, is still a magnificent tree. In 1771 it was nineteen feet round at six feet from the ground. It increased but very slowly from that time to 1825, when it was exactly twenty-one feet four inches and a half in girth at the same distance from the ground. Sir T. D. Lauder, nine years later, said that though still ' a fine, shapely, characteristic tree, L 2 164 Gilpin's forest soeneby. it was nevertheless ' certainly in decay.' He added, that by historical documents^ it was known to be six hundred years old ! The present vicar of Needwood, the Rev. John E. A. Penwick, informs us that there is a tradition that the tree was named after one Swilcher, a Danish poet. To give us some indication of its present enormous size, Mr. Penwick added that he placed his sixteen-hand horse sideways against one side of the tree, and on going him- self to the other side he was unable to see either the horse's • head or tail. — Ed. One of the most celebrated trees on ancient record was an Oriental Plane, wliicli grew in Phrygia. Its dimensions are not handed down to us; but, from the following circumstances, we may suppose them to have been very ample. When Xerxes set out on his Grecian expe- dition his route led him near this noble tree. Xerxes, it seems, was a great admirer of trees. Amidst all his devastations in an enemy's country, it was his particular order to spare the groves. This wonderful Plane therefore struck his fancy. He had seen nothing like it before, and, to the aston- ishment of all his of&cers, orders were despatched to the right and left of his mighty host to halt three days, during which time he could not be CELEBRATED TREES. 165 drawn from the Phrygian Plane. His pavilion was spread under it, and he enjoyed the luxury of its delicious shade, while the Greeks were taking measures to defend Thermopjlse. The story may not speak much in favour of the Prince ; but it is my business only to pay honour to the tree.* In Arcadia, at the foot of the mountains bounding the Stymphalian plains, (famous for one of the labours of Hercules), stood the little town of Oaphise ; and, just above it, rose a fountain, called the Menalaid fountain; by the side of which, Pausanias tells us,t grew a Plane Tree of extra- ordinary size and beauty, called the Menalaid Plane. It was generally believed in the country, he tells us, that Menelaus coming to Caphiae to raise forces for the Trojan war, planted this tree with his own hands. Pausanias travelled through Greece in the reign of Antoninus Pius, who succeeded to the empire, a.d. 151. So that the age of the tree, when Pausanias saw it, must have been about a thousand three hundred years. I shall next exhibit another Plane Tree of * This account is taken from Elian. f Paus, Arcad., c. 23. 166 Gilpin's foeest scbneby. great celebrity, which flourished in Lycia, during the reigns of the Roman Caesars. From a vast stem it divided into several huge boughs, every one of which had the consequence of a large tree, and, at a distance, the whole together exhibited the appearance of a grove. Its branches still flourished, while its trunk decayed. This, in process of time, mouldered into an immense cave, at least eighty feet in circumference, around the sides of which were placed seats of pumice stone, cushioned softly with moss. This tree was first brought into repute by Licinius Mutianus, governor of Lycia. Licinius was a curious man, and not unversed in natural history. Pliny, from whom we have the account of the tree, has thought proper to quote him frequently ; men- tioning particularly his remarks on Egyptian paper,* and also on that kind of wood of which the statue of Diana at Bphesus was made.f With the Lycian Plane Licinius was exceedingly pleased, and often enjoyed the company of his friends under its shade. It was great luxury, he * Lib. xiii. o. 13. f Lib. xvi. c. 40. CBLBBEATED TREES, 167 would say, to dine in its trunk on a sultry- summer day ; and to hear a heavy shower of rain descending through the several stages of its leaves. As a naturalist, he left it on record that himself and eighteen other persons dined com- modiously around the benches in the body of it. Caligula had a tree of the same kind at his villa near Velitrge. But Caligula's tree appears to have been more complex than the Lycian Plane. It had not only a hollow cave in its trunk, which was capable of holding fifteen persons at dinner, Avith a proper suit of the emperor's attendants ; but, if I understand Pliny rightly,* it had stories also (probably artificial flooring) in the boughs of the tree. Caligula used to call it, his nest. From the same author we have an account of four Holm Trees,t still existing in his time, which were of great antiquity. Three of them, he says, stood upon the site of the ancient Tibur, which was a city older than Rome ; and these trees were not only older than Tibur, but were trees of con- sequence in the days of Tiburtus, who founded it. * Lib. xii. c. 1. f Lib. xvi. c. 44. 168 Gilpin's forest sceneet. For tradition assures us, says Pliny, they were the very trees on which that hero observed an ominous flight of birds, and was determined by them in the site of his town. As Tiburtus was the son of Amphiareus, who died at Thebes a hundred years before the Trojan war, these trees, at the lowest calculation, must have been fourteen or fifteen hundred years old in the time of Pliny. Though this is far from being incredible, yet, as it rests wholly on tradition, we pay it the less attention. Wliat Pliny says in favour of the fourth tree, how- ever, has somewhat more of weight. This tree, he tells us, grew in the Vatican, and had its age in- scribed in old Tuscan characters upon its trunk ; from which inscription it appeared that, before the city of Rome had its existence, this Holm was a celebrated tree. When Tiberius biailt his naumachia, and had occasion for large beams in several parts of his work, he endeavoured to collect them from the various forests of the empire. Among other massy pieces of timber, which were brought to Rome on this oceasion, the trunk of a Larch was of so prodigious a size, that the emperor, instead CELEBEATED TREES. 169 of using it in his works, ordered it to be laid up as a curiosity. It measured a hundred and twenty feet in length, carrying a diameter of two feet to the very end.* When this Larch was alive, with all the furniture of its vast top and gigantic limbs in proportion to such a trunk, it must have been an astonishing tree. The largest tree that ever was known to be brought into Britain formed the mainmast of the ' Royal Sovereign,' in Queen Anne's time. It was ninety feet long, and thirty-five inches in dia- meter, t Mr. Evelyn, from whom we have this account, mentions in the same place a still larger tree, which formed the keel of the ' Crown,' a French ship of the last century. It was a hundred and twenty feet long, which is the length of Tiberius's Larch, though it had not probably the circum- ference of that tree. The masts of our ships of war, at present, are never made of single trees. It is the method to lay two or three trees together, and, fitting them ■ * Plin. Nat. Hist., 1. xvi. c. 40. j ^ylva, p. 228. 170 GiLPm's roiiKST sgeneet. close to each other, to bind thera tight at proper distances with pitched ropes and collars of iron. But a very noble Fir was lately brought into England, which was not spliced in the common mode, but was converted, in its full dimensions, into the bowsprit of the ' Britannia,' a new ship of one hundred and ten guns, in which capacity, I have heard, it serves at present. This Fir was ninety-six feet in length, and had, I believe, the full diameter of Tiberius' s Larch. Maundrel tells us that when he travelled into the East, a few of the old Cedars of Lebanon were still left. He found them among the snow, near the highest part of the mountain. ' I measured one of the largest of them,' says he, ' and found it twelve yards six inches in girt, and yet sound, and thirty-seven yards in the spread of its boughs. At about five or six yards from the ground it divided into five limbs, each of which was a massy tree.' A later traveller. Van Egmont, who visited the scenes of Mount Lebanon, seems also to speak of the same trees wbich Maundrel mentions. He observed them, he says,, to be of very different CELEBRATED TBEES. 171 ages. The old standards had low stems, growing like fruit-trees, whereas the younger made a much more stately appearance, not a httle resem- bling Pines. Of the ancient trees he saw only eleven; those of younger growth far exceeded that number. Some of these old Cedars were four or five fathoms in circumference. Under one of them was erected an altar, where the clergy of Tripoli and the neighbouring convent of Massurki sometimes celebrated mass. From this tree spread five limbs, resembling substantial trees, each being about a hundred feet in length, and inserted into the main trunk about fourteen or fifteen feet from the ground. These are noble dimensions, though it is pro- bable that the best of the trees now left upon Mount Lebanon are only the refuse of the ancient race, as we may well suppose the best were occa- sionally taken first. If Solomon's botanical works had still been preserved, it is probable we should have met with trees of much larger dimensions than those which either Maundrel or Van Egmont measured. Gilpia's reference to the ancient Cedars of Lebanoa 172 Gilpin's forest scenery. suggests au inquiry of very great interest. Are tlie oldest of the species now standing on Mount Lebanon con- temporaries of Solomon's Cedars, with the timber of which, hewn from the mountain by fourscore thousand men, he built the temple of Jerusalem ; or are they not ? Where travellers and historians disagree, who shall decide ? Decision' on this point, by which we mean conclusive judgment and not mere dogmatic assertion, is doubtless impossible. The subject is nevertheless, we repeat,, one of extreme interest; and we need offer no apology for alluding to the accounts and opinions of one or two travellers. And first we will refer to Lamartine's account, given in his ' Yoyage en Orient,' of his visit, made on the 13th of April, 1833, to the Cedars of Lebanon. The Arab Scheik of Eden, the last inhabited village of Leba- non, had despatched, on the arrival of Lamartine, three of his men on the road to the Cedars, to ascertain if the snow would allow of the trees being approached. The messengers reported on their return that access to them was impossible, as there were fourteen feet of snow lying in an intervening narrow valley, which afforded the only way of approach. Lamartine, however, was determined to get as near to the Cedars as possible, and accordingly, accompanied by guides, he set out on the journey. The party got to within about 500 or 600 yards of them, but were then compelled to halt, the horses sinking up to their shoulders in snow. 'We descended,' he says (we are quoting from the translation of the ' Voyage en Orient,' published in 1850 by Messrs. W. and R. Chambers), 'to CBLEBUATBD TREES. 173 the village of Bescherai by a patli liewn in the rock, and so deep that it seems inconceivable that men should hazard themselves upon it. Many fatal accidents occur. A stone thrown from the crest we were winding down would fall on the roofs of these villages, which we did not, however, reach iu less than an hour's continued descent. Above the cascade and the snow immense fields of ice undulate like vapours of alternate green and blue; and about a mile to the left, in a sort of semicircular vale, formed by the highest cliffs of Lebanon, we perceive a large black spot on the snow; it is the renowned group of cedars. They crown like a diadem the brow of the mountain, and look down vipou the out-branchings of the numerous large valleys which fall from it : the sea and the sky are their horizon.^ ' These trees,' exclaims Lamartine, ' are the most celebrated natural monuments in the universe. Religion, poeti'y, and history, have equally consecrated them.' fie follows with an eloquent passage, continuing, later on ; — ' This is the only spot on the chain of Lebanon where they grow, and here they take root far above the region where all considerable vegetation ceases. . . . But alas ! Bassan languishes, Carmel and the flowers of Lebanon are fading. These trees are diminished every age. Travellers formerly counted thirty or forty, after- wards seventeen, and at a later date but twelve. There are not more than seven, which, from their massiveness, can be pronounced contemporaries of the biblical era. Around these aged witnesses of times past — who know the history of the earth better than history herself, who 174 Gilpin's foeest scenery. would tell us, if they could speak, of so many empires, religions and human races swept away — there still remains a small forest of younger Cedars, which appear to me to form a group of 400 or 500 trees or bushes/ Mr. Kinglake in his ' Bothen ' appears to discredit the belief that the existing trees have survived from the days of Solomon. He says;— 'The group of Cedars remaining on this part of the Lebanon is held sacred by the Greek Church, on account of a prevailing notion that the trees were standing at the time when the Temple of Jerusalem was built. They occupy three or four acres on the moun- tain's side, and many of them are gnarled in a way that implies great age ; but, except these signs, I saw nothing in their appearance or conduct that tended to prove them contemporaries of the Cedars employed in Solomon's Temple.' In his work 'The Crescent and the Cross,' Eliot Warburton gives a description of his visit to the historic Cedars. He maintains that there were, when he visited the Lebanon forest, twelve of the old trees remain- ing. His words are, — ' There are twelve old trees, or Saints as they are called, being supposed to be coeval with those that furnished timber for Solomon's Temple — yes, twelve, I will maintain it, notwithstanding all the different computations on the subject, are there standing now. It is natural that there should be diversity of opinion, perhaps, as the forest consists of about one thou- sand trees, among which there is a succession of all ages ; nevertheless, there is the apostolic number, first-rate in size and venerable appearance. The largest of these is CELEBRATED TEEES. 175 forty-five feet in circumference ; the second is forty-four. Many of them are scarred with travellers' names/ If the most ancient of the Cedars now growing on Mount Lebanon are contemporaries of King Solomon's treeSj they would be more than 3000 years old ! The Cedar is known to grow to a great age, and tree life has been known to extend much beyond 3000 years, so that the hypothesis is not an unreasonable one, that the existing Cedars of Lebanon were growing when the Temple at Jerusalem was being built. — Ed. One of the noblest trees on record is tlie Chest- nut upon Mount Etna, called the Gastagna de cento cavalli. It is still alive, but has lost muchi of its original dignity. Many travellers take notice of it. Brydone was one of the last who saw it. His account is dated about sixteen or seventeen years ago.* It had tlien the appearance of five distinct trees. The space within them, he was assured, had once been filled with, solid timber, when tlie whole formed only one tree. The possibility of this lie could not at first conceive, for the five trees together contained a space of two hundred and four feet in circumference. At length, how- * Gilpin wrote this, it must be remembered, in 1791. — Ed. 176 gtlpin's l'orest scenery. ever, lie was convinced, not only by tlie testimony of the country, and the accurate examination of the Canon Recupero, a learned naturalist in those parts, but by the appearance of the trees them- selves, none of which had any bark on the inside. This Chestnut is of such renown, that Brydone tells us he had seen it marked in an old map of Sicily, published a hundred years ago.* Among other authors who mention this tree, Kircher gives us the following account of its con- dition in his day, which might be about a century befoi'o Brydone saw it : — ' Ostendit mihi vise dux, unius castanias corticem, tantas magnitudinis, ut intra earn integer pecorum grex, a pastoribus tan- quam in caula commodissima, noctu interclude- retur.' t From this account, one should imagine that in Kircher' s days the five trees were more united than when Brydone saw them. In his interesting work on Mount Etna, published last * See Brydone's Trav., vol. i. p. 117. t My guide showed me here, -what I can call only the shell, or hark of a Chestnut tree, hut of such amazing circumference, that one of the shepherds of the country used it as a fold for a large flock of sheep. CELEBRATED TREES. 177 year^ Mr. G. F. Eodwell writes concerning tlie gigantic- and famous Chestnut, as follows; 'The celehrated Gastagno di Oenio OavalU, one of the largest and oldest trees in the world, is in the forest of Oarpinetto, on the east side of the mountain, five miles from Giarre. This tree has the appearance of five separate trunks united into one, but Ferrara declares that, by digging a very short distance below the surface, he found one single stem. The public road now passes through the much-decayed trunk. Captain Symth measured the circumference a few feet from the ground, and found it to be 163 feet, which would give it a diameter of niore than fifty feet. The tree derives its name from the story that one of the Queens of Aragon took shelter in its trunk with a suite of 100 horsemen, Mr. Eodwell adds : — ' Near this patriarch arc several large Chestnuts, which, without a shadow of doubt, are single trees ; one of these is eighteen feet in diameter^ and a second fifteen feet, while the Gastagno della Galea, higher up on the mountains, is twenty-five feet in diameter, and probably more than 1000 years old.' — Ed. At Niestadt, in the Ducliy of Wirtemberg, stood a Lime wHcli was for many ages so re- markable that the city frequently took its de- nomination from it, being often called Niestadt an der grossen Linden, or Niestadt near the Great Lime. Scarce any person passed near Niestadt without visiting this tree, and many princes and M 178 Gilpin's fobest sceneey. great men did honour to it by building obelisks, columns, and monuments of various kinds around it, engraved with their arms and names, to which the dates were added, and often some device. Mr. Evelyn,* who prociired copies of several of these monumental inscriptions, tells ns there were near two hundred of them. The columns on which they were fixed served also to bear up the vast limbs of the tree, which began, through age, to become unwieldy. Thus this mighty plant stood many years in great state, the ornament of the town, the admiration of the country, and sup- ported, as it were, by the princes of the empire. At length it felt the effects of war. Niestadt was surrounded by an enemy, and the limbs of this venerable tree were mangled in wantonness by the besieging troops. "Whether it still exist, I know not ; but long after these injuries it stood a noble ruin, discovering by the foundations of the several monuments which formerly propped its spreading boughs, how far its limits had once extended. * See Ev. Sylva, p. 225. CELEBRATED TREES. 179 A Plane of the same enormous growth, is men- tioned by a late traveller * at the city of Cos. It stands in the centre of the market-place, and over- spreads the whole area of it. But its vast limbs, bending with their own weight, require support ; and the inhabitants of Cos have supported them in a still grander style than the Lime at Niestadt is supported. The whole city is overspread with the I'uius of antiquity, and some of the choicest columns of marble and granite, which had formerly adorned temples and porticoes, have been collected and brought to prop the limbs of this vast tree. Though the picturesque eye is not fond of these adventitious supports, and would rather see the boughs bending to the ground under their own weight, yet, if they are proper anywhere, they are proper in such a situation as this, where the tree fills the whole area of a market-place with its extended boughs, and is connected with the houses on every side by the pillars which support them. Some such idea as this very probably gave birth to that beautiful form in Gothic architecture of a * Voyage. Pit toresque de la Grece. M 2 180 Gilpin's eoebst scenery. circular room whose dome is supported by a single column rising from the centre and ramifying over the roof. We have two or three such appendages of cathedrals in England, under the name of chapter -houses. The most beautiful I know is at Salisbury, which I scruple not to call one of the most pleasing ideas in architecture. The Plane at Cos is greatly revered by all the inhahitants of the city. Much of their public business is transacted in the markct-placo. There, too, they liold tlieir little social meetings, and we may easily conceive the luxury, in such a climate, of a grand leafy canopy to screen them from the fervour of the sun. To add to the beauty and convenience of this very delicious scene, a fountain of limpid water bubbles up near the roots of the tree. As a parallel to these trees, I shall nest celebrate the Lime of Oleves. This, also, was a tree of great magnificence. It grew in an open plain, just at the entrance of the city, and was thought an object worthy to exercise the taste of magistracy. The burgomaster of his day had it surveyed with great accuracy, and trimmed into eight broad, pyramidal faces. Each corner CELEBBATED TEEKS., 181 was supported by a handsome stone pillar, and in tlie middle oE the tree, among the branches, was cut a noble room, which the vast space con- tained within easily suffered, without injuring the regularity of any of the eight faces. To crown all, the top was curiously clipped into some kind of head, and adorned artificially ; but in what manner, whether with the head of a lion, or a stag, a weather-cook, or a sun-dial, we are not told. It was something, however, in the highest style of Dutch taste. This tree was long the admiration and envy of all the states of Holland, and Mr. Evelyn, from whom we have the relation, seems to have thought it a piece of excellent workmanship. ' I needed not,' says he, ' have chax-ged this para- graph with half these trees, but to show how much more the Lime Tree seems disposed to be wrought into these arboreous wonders than other trees of slower growth.' * In the wars between Henry II., King of England, and Philip of France, the two kings had a confer- ence in the year 1188, near Gisors, under an Elm * Sylva, p. 225, 182 Gilpin's toeest scenery. whicli, we are told, covered several acres of land.* Tlie truth, I suppose, is, that it was an immense tree. Under its canopy so numerous a train of the prelates and nobility of both nations, who attended the two kings, were assembled, that perhaps no tree ever before sheltered so magnificent a company. Some time afterwards, hostilities again commencing between these princes, Philip ordered the Elm to bo cut down. As it appeared to be in no shape an object to him, people were apt to say he did it in a fit of spiteful revenge against Henry, who often, when his army lay encamped in those parts, took a pleasure in sitting under its shade. The Oaks of Chaucer are celebrated, in the annals of poetry, as the trees under which — ' The laiighing sage CaroU'd his moral song.' They grew in the park at Donnington Castle, near Newbury, Avhere Chaucer spent his latter life in studious retirement. The largest of these trees was called the King's Oah, and carried an erect * See Smollett's Hist, of England, vol. ii. p. 210. OBLBBEATBD TBEES. 183 stein of fifty feet before it broke into branches, and was cut into a beam five feet square. The next in size was called the Queen's Oah, and sur- vived the calamities of the civil wars in King Charles's time, though Donnington Castle and the country around it were so often the scene of action and desolation. Its branches were very curious ; they pushed out from the stem in several ■uncommon directions, imitating the horns of a ram rather than the branches of an Oak. When it was felled, it yielded a beam forty feet long, without knot or blemish, perfectly straight, four feet square at the butt end, and near a yard at tlie top. The third of these Oaks was called Chaucer'' s, of which we have no particulars; in general, only, we are told that it was a noble tree, though inferior to either of the others.* None of them, I should suppose from this account, was a tree of picturesque beauty. A straight stem, of forty or fifty feet, let its head be what it will, can hardly produce a picturesque form. When we admired the Stone Pine, we supposed its stem to * See Evelyn's Sylva, p. 227. 184 Gilpin's foeest soeneey. take a sweeping line, and to be broken, also, witli stumps or decayed branches. Close by the gate of the water-walk, at Magdalen College in Oxford, grew an Oak, which perhaps stood there a sapling, when Alfred the Great founded the university. Tliis period only includes a space of nine hundred years, which is no great age for an Oak. It is a difficult matter, indeed, to ascertain the age of a tree.* The age of a castle or abbey is the object of history. Even a common house is recorded by the family that built it. All these objects arrive at maturity in their youth, if I may so speak. But the tree, gradually completing its growth, is not worth recording in the early part of its existence. It is then only a common tree, and, afterwards, when it becomes remarkable for its age, the memory of its youth is forgotten. This tree, however, can almost pro- duce historical evidence for the ag'e it boasts. * In. most exogenous trees, or those ■which, increase by addi- tions of tissue outwards from the central column or pith, a very- near approximation to tlieir age may be obtained by counting the conoontrio ' rings ' shown on the trunk, though only, of course, when the latter is cut across — each ' ring ' representing the tissue added during one year's growth. — Ed. CELEBRATED TREES. 185 About five liundred years after the time of Alfred, William of Waiufleet, Dr. Stukely tells us, ex- pressly ordered his college to be founded near the great Oalc,^' and an Oak could not well be less than five hundred years of age to merit that title, together with the honour of fixing the site of a college. When the magnificence of Cardinal Wolsey erected that handsome tower, which is so ornamental to the whole building, this tree might probably be in the meridian of its glory, or rather, perhaps, it had attained a green old ago. But it must have been manifestly in its decline at that memorable era, when the tyranny of James gave the fellows of Magdalen so noble an opportunity of withstanding bigotry and superstition. It was much injured in Charles II.'s time, when the present walks were laid out. Its roots were disturbed, and, fi'om that period, it decHned fast, and became reduced by degrees to little more than a mere trunk. The oldest members of the uni- versity can scarce recollect it in better plight. But the faithful records of history f have handed * Itiner. Curios. t Sec Dr. Plot's Hist, of Oxf. cli. vi. sect. 45. 186 Gilpin's toeest sceneky. down its ancient dimensions. Through, a space of sixteen yards, on every side from its trunk, it once flung its boughs, and under its magnificent pavilion could have sheltered, with ease, three thou- sand men, though in its decayed state it could, for many years, do little more than shelter some luck- less individual whom the driving shower had over- taken in his evening walk. In the summer of the year 1788, this magnificent ruin fell to the ground, alarming the college with its rushing sound. It then appeared how precariously it had stood for many years. Its grand tap-root was decayed, and it had hold of the earth only by two or three roots, of which none was more than a couple of inches in diameter. From a part of its ruins a chair has been made for the president of the college, which will long continue its memory. The chair referred to by our Author as having been made out of the ruins of the famous Magdalen College Oak stands, wo arc informed by the Rev. Frederic Bulley, the president of the College, ' in the Hall of the President's lodgings, where it may be seen by visitors.' Dr. Bulley adds, ' It is in the gothic style of architecture, and a fine specimen of the carving of ninety years ago.' Subjoined CBLEBEATED TREES. 187 is a copy, courteously furnished to us by Dr. Bulley, of the iuscription ou a brass plate attached to the seat. Quercus Magdalenensis Corruit Festo S. Petri a.d. MDOCLXXXIX. Cujus B Liguo, Ne Arboris Usque A. Collegio Pundato Notissim^ Prorsus abolescat Memoriaj Hanc Sellam Prsesidens Sociique Pabricandam Curaveruut A.D. MDCCXCI. Juxta Exemjplar A. Hicardo Paget A.M. Semicom. Delineatum, Cselavit Eobertus Archer Oxoniensis. — Ed. l^eav "Worksop grew an Oak, wliicli, in respect both to its own dignity and tlie dignity of its situation, deserves lionourable mention. In point of grandeur few trees equalled it. It overspread a space of ninety feet from tlie extremities of its opposite boughs. These dimensions will produce an area capable, on mathematical calculation, of covering a squadron of two hundred and thirty- 188 Gilpin's ioeest scenbet. five horse. The dignity of its station was equal to the dignity of the tree itself. It stood on a point "where Yorkshire, Nottinghamshire, and Derbyshire unite, and spread its shade over a portion of each. , From the honourable station of thus fixing the boundaries of three large counties, it was equally respected through the domains of them all, and was known far and wide by the honourable distinction of the Shire Oah, by which appellation it w^s marked among cities, towns, and rivers, in all the larger maps of England.* In the garden at Tortworth, in Gloucestershire, an old family-seat belonging to Lord Ducie, grows a Spanish Chestnut of great age and dimensions. Traditional accounts suppose it to have been a boundary-tree in the time of King John ; and I have met with other accounts whicli place it in the same honourable station in the reiscn of King- Stephen. How much older it may be we know not. Considerably older it probably was, for we rarely make boundary-trees of saplings and off-sets, which are liable to a thousand accidents, and are * See Evelyn's Sylva, p. 232. CJ5LEBEAT15D TEEES. 189 unable to maintain, with proper dignity, the station delegated to them. This tree is at present in hands which justly value and protect its age. It was barely included within the garden wall, which bore hard upon it. Lord Ducie has lately removed the incumbrance, and at the same time applied fresh earth to the roots of the tree, which seems to have enlivened it. So late as in the year 1788 it produced great quantities of chestnuts, which, though small, were sweet and well- flavoured. In the great Chestnut cause, mentioned a little above,* between Barriugton and Ducarel, this venerable tree was called upon as an evidence, and gave a very respectable testimony in favour of the Chestnuts. Nothing is more remarkable in connexion with this account of ' celebi'ated trees ' than the fact that the renowned Tortworth Oliestnut is still alive. The Eev. 0. Greswell, of Tortworth, has expressed the opinion^ in' an interesting communication with which he has favoured us, that during his residence of thirty-eight years in the neighbourhood the old tree has not much changed. He says, ' The trunk of the original tree is, of course, hollow and much decayed, but it has surrounded itself with a * See page 86. 190 oilpin's foeest scbnert. numerous progeny of strong and healfcliy suckers which, give it, still, a very imposing appearance, especially in summer, when it is in full leaf. Like the Phoenix; of antiquity, it may be said to have risen again out of its own ashes.' It is believed to be more than a thousand years old ! and is, in all probability, the oldest tree of its kind in England. In an account of it, published in 1825, in a work entitled ' Sylvan Sketches ' by the author of The Flora Domestica, it is stated that even in the year 1150 it was called the great or the old Chestnut of Tortworth, a statement which would agree with Gilpin's information that it was ' a boundary- tree in the time of King John,' or even in the earlier reign of Stephen. In 1720 it measured fifty-one feet in girth at six feet from the ground. In 1779 it had measured fifty-four feet in girth. Very old trees, however, naturally diminish in girth after a certain period by the decay and falling off of portions of the lower part of the trunk. This has happened, though not in a noticeable degree, in the case of the Tortworth Chestnut. Mr Greswell kindly obtained for us from Lord Ducie's gardener about the end of last May, an exact measurement of the Tortworth Chestnut at the jDresent time. The result is as follows : — Girth, at three feet from the ground, forty- nine feet : at six feet from the ground, fifty feet : north and south, eighty-six feet through : east and west, eighty-eight feet through. 'These latter statements,' Mr. Greswell explains, ' give an idea of the extent of space covered by the branches which have shot out from the trunk.' — Ed. CELEBRATED TBEES. 191 After mentioning this Chestnut, which has been celebrated so much, I cannot forbear mentioninof another, which is equally remarkable for having never been celebrated at all, though it is one of the largest trees that perhaps ever existed in England. If it had ever been noticed merely for its bulk, I should have passed it over among other gigantic plants that had nothing else to boast, but as no his- torian or antiquarian, so far as I have heard, has taken the least notice of it, I thought it right, from this very circumstance, to make up the omission by giving it, at least, what little credit these papers could give. This Chestnut grows at a place called Wimley, near Hitchin Priory in Hertfordshire. In the year 1789, at five feet above the ground, its girth was somewhat more than fourteen yards. Its trunk was hollow, and in part open. But its vegetation was still vigorous. On one side its vast arms, shooting up in various forms, some upright and others oblique, were decayed and peeled at the extremities, but issued from luxuriant foliage at their insertion in the trunk. On the other side the foliage was still full, and hid all decay. 192 Gilpin's forest scbneby. But for the marvellous longevity of the Chestnut tree it would be scarcely conceivable^ from Gilpin's description^ that the one growing near Hitchin, first made famous by his mention, ninety years ago, could still be living. Tet such is the fact, the place where it stands being Little Wymondley (Gilpin's spelling of the name, Wimley, being doubtless suggested by the pronunciation). The tree is situated near Little Wymondley Church, and is visible from the Railway, the nearest station being Stevenage, from which it is distant a little more than a mile. The Rev. Lewis Hensley, the vicar of Hitchin, courteously sent to us a photograph of the tree, taken in 1875, since which, he thinks, there has been little change in the appearance of this singular and most remarkable sylvan ruin. Mr. Hensley mentioned in his letter (dated the I9th of May, 1879) that not long ago it put out some fresh shoots. The vicar of Little Wymondley (the Rev. Willoughby J. E. Rooke) is of opinion that the ancient tree has not altered ' in any respect for the last four or five years.' By its side is what looks like a pile of timber. This, Mr. Rooke informs ns, 'is a portion of the trunk which (being hollow) was unable to support the weight of the upper branches, and so gave way, and fell, in a mass, on one side of the tree ; but, being itself so very massive, broke into many longitudinal pieces from the concussion, on reaching the ground, where it has lain ever since un- touched, fortunately, by any one.' Mr. Rooke adds; — ' It is not now easy to take the girth, as more than half the trunk is gone, but the line remains at the base where OELEBEATED TEEBS. 193 OQG could trace tlie circumference.' "■ Som.b six or seven years ago/ our correspondent continues, ' I measured the circumference, and made it to be about fifteen yards — fourteen yards would be within the mark/ Last year, we learn from Mr. Rooke, this marvellous tree bore — on what were once the suckers, but are now large limbs or trees — an abundance of fruit. — Ed. In a glade of Hainhault Forest in Essex, about a mile from Barkingside, stands an Oak, which has been known through many centuries, by the name of Fairlop. The tradition of the country traces it half way up the Christian era. It is still a noble tree, though it has now suffered greatly from the depredations of time. About a yard from the ground, where its rough fluted stem is thirty-six feet in circumference, it divides into eleven vast arms, yet not in the horizontal manner of an Oak, but rather in that of a Beech. Beneath its shade, which overspreads an area of three hundred feet in circuit, an annual fair has long been held on the 2nd of July, and no booth is suffered to be erected beyond the extent of its boughs. But as their extremities are now become sapless, and age is yearly curtailing their N 194 Gilpin's forest scenery. length, tte liberties of tlie fair seem to be in a desponding condition. Tlie honour however is great. But honours are often accompanied with inconveniences, and Fairlop has suffered from its honourable distinctions. In the feasting that attends a fair, fires are often necessary, and no places seemed so proper to make them in as the hollow cavities formed by the heaving roots of the tree. This practice has brought a speedier decay on Fairlop than it might otherwise have suffered. Gilpin remarked in a note at the end of the first volume of the edition of the ' Forest Scenery ' published in 1791, — T am doubtful whether the/air here mentioned has not been for some time discontinued.' This note does not appear in the two following editions. Fairlop Fair is still regularly held at the same time of the year, but no longer around the Fairlop Oak, which was blown down during high winds that prevailed in the year 1820.— Ed. Not far from Blandford, in Dorsetshire, stood very lately a tree known by the name of Damory's Oak. About five or six centuries ago, it was pro- bably in a state of maturity. At the ground its CELEBBATBD TREES. 195 circumference was sixty-eiglit feet, and seventeen feet above tlie ground its diameter was four yards. As tliis vast trunk decayed it became lioUow, forming a cavity whicli was fifteen feet wide and seventeen feet high, capable of holding twenty men. During the civil wars, and till after the restoration, this cave was regularly inhabited by an old man, who sold ale in it. In the violent storm in the year 1703 it suffered greatly, many of its noblest limbs having been torn from it. But it was still so grand a ruin, above forty years after, that some of its branches were seventy-five feet high, and extended seventy-two. In the year 1755, when it was fit for nothing but firewood, it was sold for fourteen pounds.* In Torwood, in the county of Sterling, upon a little knoll, stand at this time the ruins of an Oak, which is supposed to be the largest tree that ever grew in Scotland. The trunk of it is now wholly decayed and hollow ; but it is evident, from what remains, that its diameter could not * See Hutoliiiis's Aco. ol Dorsctsliire, vol. i., willi a piiut of it. N 2 196 Gilpin's foeest scenery. have been less than eleven or twelve feet. What its age may be, is matter only of conjecture ; but, from some circumstances, it is probably a tree of great antiquity. The little knoll it stands on is surrounded by a swamp, over which a causeway leads to the tree, or rather to a circle Tvhich seems to have run round it. The vestiges of this circle, as well as the causeway, bear a plain resemblance to those works which are commonly attributed to the Druids. So that it is probable this tree was a scene of worship belonging to those heathen priests. But the credit of it does not depend on the dubious vestiges of Druid antiquity. In a later scene of greater importance (if tradition ever be the vehicle of truth), it bore a great share. When that illustrious hero, William Wallace, roused the spirit of the Scotch nation to oppose the tyranny of Edward, he often chose the soli- tude of Torwood as a place of rendezvous for his army. Here he concealed his numbers and his designs, sallying out suddenly on the enemy's garrisons, and retreating, as suddenly, when he feared to be overpowered. While his army lay in those woods, the Oak, which we are now com- CELEBUATED TREES. 197 memorating, was commonly liis headquarters. Here the hero generally slept, its hollow trunk being capacious enough to afford shelter, not only to himself, but to several of his officers. This tree has ever since been known by the name of Wallace Tree, by which name it may easily be found in Torwood to this day.* The ' Wallace Oak/ in Torwood Porestj must have dis- appeared very early in the present century ; but at what particular date it is extremely difficult to say, for the reason that its remains were taken away, bit by bit, by that numerous and insatiable class, the relic hunters. In Sir Walter Scott's ' Tales of a Grandfather,' written about the year 1827, occurs a reference to the tree. Scott says : (Chapter VII. ' The Story of Sir William Wallace.') ' A large Oak tree in the adjoining forest (Torwood) was long shown as marking the spot where Wallace slept before the battle ' (of Falkirk), ' or, as others said, in which he hid himself after the defeat. Nearly forty years ago Grandpapa saw some of its roots ; ' (evidently the ' ruins ' referred to by Gilpin as existing about the same time) ' but the body of the tree was, even then, entirely decayed, and there is not now, and has not been for many years, the least vestige of it to be seen.' — Ed. * See Nimmo's Hist, of Stirlingshire, p. 145. 198 Gilpin's fobest scenjeky. Among these celebrated trees we must not forget Hern's Oak in "Windsor Forest. Shake- speare tells us, — ' An old tale goes, that Hern the hunter, Sometime a keeper here in "Windsor forest, Doth all the winter time, at still of midnight, WaUc round ahout this Oak, with ragged horns ; And then he blasts the trees, destroys the cattle. Makes the miloh-cow yield hlood, and shakes a chain In hideous, dreadful manner.' This tree, as far as 'vve can pay credit to tradition and general opinion, still exists. In the little park at "Windsor is a walk, known by the name of Qaeen Elizabeth's Walk. It consists of Elms, among which is a single Oak taken into the row, as if particularly meant to be distinguished, at the titne when the walk was laid out. This tree is supposed to be Hern's Oak. It is a large tree, measuring about twenty-four feet in circum- ference, and is still in great vigour, which I think chiefly injures its historical credit. For though it is evidently a tree in years, and might well have existed in the time of Elizabeth, it seems too strong and vigorous to have been a proper tree in that age, for Hern, the hunter, to have danced CELEBEATED TEEES. 199 round. Eairies, elves, and that generation of people, universally chose the most ancient and venerable trees they could find to gambol under ; and the poet who should describe them dancing under a sapling, vrould show little acquaintance with his subject. That this tree could not be called a venerable tree two hundred years ago, is evident, because it hardly can assume that character even now ; and yet an Oak, in a soil it likes, will con- tinue so many years in a vigorous state, that we must not lay more stress on this argument than it will fairly bear. It may be added, however, in its favour, that a pit or ditch is still shown near the tree, as Shakespeare describes it, which may have been preserved Avith the same venera,tion as the tree itself. Opinions have difi'ered as to which of two old Oaks in Windsor Park was the veritable ' Heme's ;' but the weight of authority appears to have inclined in favour of a tree which was cut down in 1796, several years after Gilpin wrote his ' Forest Scenery.'' — Ed. There is an Oak in the grounds of Sir Gerard Yan Neck, at Heveningham, in Suffolk, which carries us likewise into the times of Elizabeth. 200 Gilpin's forest soeneey. But this tree brings its evidence "witli it — evidence wliicli, if necessary, might carry it into Saxon times. It is now falling fast into the decline of years, and every year robs it more of its honours. But its trunk, which measures thirty-five feet in circumference, still retains its grandeur, though the ornaments of its boughs and foliage are much reduced. But the grandeur of the trunk consists only in appearance. It is a mere shell. In Queen Elizabeth's time it was hollow, and from this circumstance the tree derives the honour of being handed down to posterity. That princess, who from her earliest age loved masculine amuse- ments, used often, it is said, in her youth, to take her stand in this tree, and shoot the deer as they passed. From that time it has been known by the name of Queen Elizabeth's Oak. Though falling fast into the decline of years in the last century, Queen Elizabeth's Oak is still standing upon Lord Huntingfield's property at Heveningham; and the Rev. William Belcher, rector of the parish, informs us that it is ' a magnificent old tree of enormous girth.' The fact of the marvellous prolongation of Oak life finds a singular illustration in the continued existence of a tree, which, if the report of it given by Gilpin be correct, was so hollow in CELEBRATED TEEES. 201 Queen Elizabeth's day as to furnish space enough for the Maiden Queen to ensconce herself within its shell. — Ed. After celebrating tlie grandeur of tliese sons of the forest, I sliould wisli to introduce, in due subordination, two or three celebrated fruit trees. In the Deanery Garden at Winchester stood lately (so lately as the year 1757) an ancient Fig Tree. Through a succession of many deans it had been cased up, and shielded from winds and frost. The wall to which it was nailed, was adorned with various inscriptions in Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, alluding to such passages of the sacred writings as do honour to the Pig Tree. After having been presented with several texts of Scripture, the reader was informed, by way of climax, that in the year 1623, King James I. tasted of the fruit of this Fig Tree with great pleasure. At Lambeth, likewise, are two celebrated Pig Trees, which, on good grounds, are supposed to have been planted by Cardinal Pole. They are immense trees of the kind, covering a space of vvall fifty feet in height, and forty in breadth. The circumference of the stem of one of them is twenty-eight inches, and of the other twenty-one. 202 Gilpin's d'okest scenery. They are of the white Marseilles kind, and have for many years furnished the tables of the Arch- bishops of Canterbury with very delicious fruit. The two Pig Trees at Lambetlij referred to by Gilpin, grew in the garden of the Archbishop's palace ; but they were removed during some extensive alterations which took place in the grounds about half a century ago, not, however, before cuttings from them were taken. Five of these cuttings, planted against the library wall of the palace, have now become five trees, which are greater iu girth than the stocks from which they came. We paid a visit to them on the courteous invitation of the present Archbishop of Canterbury, and, on that occasion, learnt that they continue to furnish the tables of the Archbishops, as did the trees planted by Cardinal Pole, with an abun- dance of ' very delicious fruit.' — Ed. Among other remarkable fruit trees may be reckoned a Vine belonging to the late Sir Charles Eaymond, at Valentine House, near Ilford, in Essex. It was planted, a cutting, in the year 1758, of the black Hamburgh sort; and as the fruit of this species will not easily ripen in the open air, it was planted in a hot-house, though without any preparation of soil, which is, in those grounds, a stiff loam or rather clay. The hot-house is a very CBLEBKATED TREES. 203 large one, about seventy feet in front; and the Vine, wliicli I understand is pruned in a peculiar mannei-, extends two liundred feet, part of it run- ning along the south wall on the outside of the hot-house. In the common mode of pruning, this species of Vine is no great bearer ; but managed as it is here, it produces wonderfully. Sir Charles Raymond, on the death of his lady in 1778, left Valentine House, at which time the gardener had the profits of the Vine. It annually produced about four hundredweight of grapes, which used formerly (-when the hot-house, I suppose, was kept warmer) to ripen in March ; though lately they have not ripened till June, when they sell at four shillings a poimd, which produces about eighty pounds sterling. This account I had from Mr. Eden, the gardener who planted the Vine. With regard to the profits of it, I think it probable, from the accounts I have had from other hands, that when the grapes ripened earlier, they pro- duced much more than eighty pounds, A gentle- man of character informed me that he had it from Sir Charles Raymond himself, that, after supplying his own table, he has made a hundred and twenty 204 Gilpin's forest scenery. pounds a year of tlie grapes; and fhe same gentleman, wlio was curious, inquired of tlie fruit dealers, wlio told him that, in some years, they supposed the profits might have amounted to three hundred pounds. This does not contradict Mr. Eden's account, who said that the utmost he ever made of it (that is, I suppose, Avhen the grapes sold at four shillings a pound in June) was eighty- four pounds. At the lowest calculation, the profits were prodigious. The stem of this Yine was, in the year 1789, thirteen inches in circumference. We learn from Mr William Earley — a considerable authority on all matters horticultural — that the remark- able vine referred to in the preceding paragraph is still living. Its prolific stem, which, ninety years ago, was ' thirteen inclies in circumference,'' is now dead ; but it has given place to two '' canes,' which, annually, up to and including the past season, bore excellent crops of remark- ably well-flavoured fruit. Mr. Earley adds to his very interesting communication, — ' So popular did this large vine ' (the one mentioned by Gilpin) ' become, that cut- tings of it were taken far and wide ; ' and he states, further, that an enormous grape vine known as the ' Hampton Court ' vine, ' a prodigy of its kind,' has been grown from a cutting from the old vine at Valentine House. — Ed. CELEBEATJED TEEES. 205 But tlie Vine, even as a timber tree, has its place in history. Mr. Misson, a traveller, of whom Mr. Addison speaks with particular respect, tells us * that the gates of the great church at Eavenna in Italy were made of Vine planks, twelve feet long, and fourteen or fifteen inches broad. The Vine from which these planks were taken must have been an enormous vegetable of its kind. Indeed, if the account had not been well attested, it would have exceeded credit. Misson adds that the soil about Ravenna, on the side next the sea, was remarkable for the enormous growth of Vines, and, he supposes, it was owing to the rich manure left by the sea. For though the town of Eavenna. in his day stood a league from the Adriatic, yet it is an undoubted fact that the sea formerly washed its walls, and that the present Ravenna occupies the site of the ancient Ravenna, which, we know, was one of the best ports the Romans had on the Adriatic. Having thus given the history of some of the most celebrated trees on record, I cannot help * See Missou's Travels in Italy. 206 Gilpin's forest soeneky. subjoining an account of a few particular species, wliicli are remarkably singular. In tbe memoirs of tbe Frencli academy we find a description of a veiy curious tree, by Mr. Adanson, called tlie Boabab. It is a native of Senegal, and has been taken notice of by Prosper Alpinus, and other botanists ; but Mr. Adanson, who spent several years in those pai'ts, seems to have had the best opportunities of being acquainted with it. As to its botanical peculiari- ties, which are great, and its physical uses, which are many, we enter not into them. We have only to do with its external form, which is very uncom- mon. It is supposed to be the largest of Nature's vegetable productions — the behemoth of the forest. From Mr. Adanson's account one should suppose the Boabab to be a kind of natural pollard. He tells us its trunk seldom rises higher than twelve feet, though its diameter exceeds seventy. From this amazing trunk spring a number of massy branches. The centre branch rises perpendicularly sixty or seventy feet; the lateral, branches shoot in angles less and less acute, till the lowest series form right angles CELEBRATED TEBES. 207 witli the trunk, and so become horizontal. In this direction they stretch fifty or sixty feet, till their weight brings them to the ground, with which the extremities of many of them are in con- tact. So that the whole tree has the appearance of a woody hemisphere, whose radius, including the thickness of the trunk, must be about eighty or ninety feet. Whatever may be said for the peculiarity of such a tree, we cannot say much in favour of its picturesque form. It seems to be little more than a monstrous bush. The bark of this tree is of an ash-coloured tint. Its leaves are oval, pointed at the end, and about five inches long. Though the Boabab is a native of Africa, yet a small one was found growing in the island of Martinico. It is supposed, however, to have been brought thither by some negro slave, as it is common among those poor people to carry about them seeds of different kinds, as charms and remedies, and it is certain that many African plants have been propagated in the "West Indies in this accidental manner. We have lately had an account of another African tree, which is equally wonderful. In some 208 Gilpin's forest scenery. private despatclies to the Cliairman of the Sierra Leone Company, one, relating to the natural his- tory of the country, states that, in the woods con- tiguous to the settlement, is a Silk-cotton Tree, which, at five feet from the ground, measures sixty-eight feet in circumference, and, at fifty feet from the ground, thirty-one. The height of this tree is prodigious ; but the adjoining trees, crowd- ing round, prevent its being accurately taken. This account mentions the trees of this species as the largest in the country. Mr. Evelyn gives us the description of another curious tree, called the Arbor de Rays, which is found chiefly in the East Indies, and is remark- able for the manner in which it propagates. From the end of its boughs it distils, in a continued viscous thread, a kind of gummy matter, which in- creases like an icicle till it reach the ground, where it takes root and becomes a stem, putting forth new branches, and propagating anew, so that a single plant of this kind may increase into a forest. Strabo describes an Indian tree, which I should suppose was the same with Mr. Evelyn's Arbor de Rays; only Strabo accounts more simply for CELEBRATED TEEES. 209 the mode of its ^propagation. Its branches, he says, grow horizontally about twelve cubits, and then take a direction to the earth, where they root themselves, and, when they have attained maturity, continue to propagate in the same manner, till the ground is covered with them for a considerable space, or, as Strabo more expressively describes it, till the whole becomes like a tent sup- forted by many columns.* This seems to be the tree of which Milton speaks. ' Erancliiiig so broad and long, that in the ground Tlie bended twigs take root ; and daughters grow About the mother tree ; a pillared shade, High over-arched, with echoing walks between. There oft the Indian herdsman, shunning heat, Shelters in cool ; and tends his pasturing herds At loopholes cut through tliickest shade.' Modern travellers speak of an Indian tree like this (the only tree of the kind they know), which they call the Banian tree, or Indian Fig. In its mode of propagation it corresponds rather with Strabo's description than Evelyn's. We are in- formed however that, although common in India, ■■'' IloXvcTTvXu) a-K-qvi] o/xoioi/, p. 094, edit. Gaus. 210 it is not very commonly found in that state of grandeur in -whicli it is here described. Nor, indeed, will it easily take that very regular form without some little assistance from art. Instead of the Indian herdsman, whom Milton introduces, it is often, at this day, inhabited by a Bramin, who builds his little reed-thatched shed against its trunk, and amuses his leisure by directing its lengthening branches into proper places, and form- ing each into a regular arch. Here, dressed in a long white tunic, the habit of his order, and adorned with a fiowirig beard, he spends his solitary hours in wandering among the verdant alleys of his tree, scarce ever leaving its limits. The inhabitants of the district resort daily to him with the necessaries of life, and receive, in return, his prayers and benedictions. There is a tree in the island of Java called the Upas, or Poison Tree, which (in the history of curious trees) should not be omitted, though the accounts of it are so wonderful, that some have esteemed them fabulous. They are given to the public by a surgeon belonging to the Dutch East India Company, of the name of Foersch, who was CBLBBEATED TEEES. 211 stationed at Batavia in tlie year 1774. Surprising, however, as these accounts may be, they are ac- companied with so many pubUc facts and names of persons and places, that it is somewhat difficult to conceive them fabulous. The abridged narra- tive of this strange production is this. The Upas grows about, twenty-seven leagues from Batavia, in a plain surrounded by rocky mountains ; the whole of which plain, containing a circle of ten or twelve miles round the tree, is totally barren. Nothing that breathes or vege- tates can live within its influence. The bird, that flies over it, drops down dead. The beast, that wanders into it, expires. The whole dreadful area is covered with sand, over which lie scattered loose flints and whitening bones. This tree may be called the emperor's great military magazine. In a solution of the poisonous gum which exudes from it, his arrows and offensive weapons arei dipped. The procuring, therefore, of this poi- sonous gum, is a matter of as much attention as of difficulty. Criminals only are employed in this dreadful service. Of these, several, every year, are sent with a promise of pardon and reward, if 2 212 Gilpin's forest soenbrt. they procure it. Hooded in leathern cases, with glass eyelet-holes, and secured as much as possible from the full effluvia of the air they are to breathe, they undertake this melancholy jour- ney, travelling always with the wind. About one in ten escapes, and brings away a little box of this direful commodity. Of the dreadful and sudden effect of this poison, the author saw many instances. He mentions, among others, the execution of thirteen young ladies of the emperor's seraglio, who, having been convicted of infidelity to his bed, were condemned to die by the poison of Upas, which is considered in Java, like the axe in England, an honourable instrument of death.. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, these urihappy victims were led into a court in the palace, where a row of thirteen posts had been erected. To these they were bound. As they stood trembling, they were obliged to confess the justice of their sentence ; which each of them did, by laying one hand on the koran and the other on her breast. When these confe;^sions were finished and a few religious ceremonips, on a sign given by the judo-e, CELEBHATED TREES. 213 an executioner stepped forward, who bared their breasts, and amidst their cries and shrieks, with a poisoned lancet made a slight incision in each. The author says he stood by, with his watch in his hand. In five minutes they were seized with con- vulsive spasms, excruciating agonies succeeded, and in sixteen minutes they were all dead. A frightful change came on. Erom being objects of beauty, they became spectacles of horror. Livid spots broke out upon them. Their faces swelled, their cheeks became blue, and their eyes yellow. The author says that, on the coast of Macassar, there are found trees very like the Upas of Java, but not so malignant. If so, it is probable that all these trees are of the same kind ; only the Java Upas has found a situation where its poi- sonous qualities are more sublimed. Dr. Darwin, in his Loves of the Plants, has given us a picture of the situation of this dreadful tree, the existence of which he seems to believe. ' Where secas of glass witli gay reflections smile Eound tlio green coasts of Java's palmy isle, A spacious plain extends its upland scene, Eocks rise on rocks, and fountains gusk between. 214 Gilpin's tobest scenery. Soft breathes tlie breeze ; eternal summers reign, And showers prolific bless the soil — in vain ! No spicy nutmeg scents the vernal gales : No towering plaintain shades the mid-day vales : No grassy mantis hides the sable hills : No flowery cbaplet crowns the trickling rills : No step, retreating, on tiie sand impressed, Invites the visit of a second guest. Fierce in dread silence, on the blasted heath EeU Upas sits.' So long a period has now elapsed since the fabulous story of the Upas valley was exploded that Gilpin's de- scription and the half credence which he gives to the false account of Foersch will probably cause many readers to smile. But it must be remembered that Foersch's story was published about the time that this ' Forest Scenery ' was written. A sufiBcient apology for the credence given by Gilpin to the romantic tale, and an indication, at the same time^ of the hold which it has taken on the popular fancy is furnished by the fact that^ even now, not a few persons will be found amongst the cursory readers of books, who have some dim idea that ' somewhere in Asia ' there exists a blighted valley, where all living things — animals and plants — have been poisoned by the effluvia from the fearful Upas Tree. And many writers who well know the truth of the matter still indulge, from time to time, in imagery suggested by the fable of the poisonous Upas valley. ' Of the dreadful and sudden/ or compara- tively sudden, effect of the prepared juice of the poison •CELEBEATBD 'lEBBS. 215 tree, popularly called the Upas Tree, when injected into the blood of an animal, bird, or human being, there is, of course, no donbt, for death ensues almost immediately. — Ed. That I may connect this little biographical history of trees with the principal subject of my book, I shall conclude it with an account of two or three celebrated trees from New Forest, in Hampshire. The first I shall mention is that famous tree against which the arrow of Sir Walter Tyrrel glanced, which killed William Rufas. Leland tells us, and Camden * from him, that the death of Rufus happened at a place in New Forest called Througham, where a chapel was erected to his memory. But I meet with no place of the name of Througham in New Forest ; and neither the remains, nor the remembrance, of any chapel. It is probable that Througham might be what is now called Fritham, where the tradition of the country seems to have fixed the spot with more credibility than the tree. The chapel might * See Camden's Account of JSTew Forest. 21G Gilpin's forest scenery. only liave been some little temporary oratory, ■wHch, haying never been endowed, might speedily have fallen to decay ; but the tree, it is probable, ■would be noticed at the time by everybody who lived near it, and by strangers who came to see it ; and it is as probable that it could never be for- gotten afterwards. They who think a tree in- suflS.cient to record a fact of so ancient a date, may be reminded that seven hundred years (and it is not more since the death of Rufus) make no extraordinary period in the existence of an Oak. About fifty years ago, however, this tree became so decayed and mutilated that in all probability the spot would have been forgotten, if some other memorial had not been raised. Before the stump therefore was eradicated, a triangular stone was erected by the late Lord Delaware, who lived in one of the neighbouring lodges, on the three sides of which stone the following inscriptions are engraven, — 1. Here stood the Oak Tree, on which an arrow, shot by Sir Walter Tyrrel at a stag, glanced and CBLEBBATED TREES. 217 struck King William II., surnamed Rufus, in tlie breast, of which stroke he instantly died, on the 2ud of August, 1100. 2. King William II. being thus slain, was laid on a cart belonging to one Purkess ; and drawn from hence to Winchester, and buried in the cathedral church of that city. 3. That the spot, where an event so memorable happened, might not hereafter be unknown, this stone was set up by John Lord Delaware, who has seen the tree growing in this place. Lord Delaware asserts plainly that he had seen the Oak Tree ; and, as he lived much on the spot, he had probably other grounds for the assertion, besides the tradition of the country. That matter however rests on his authority. It is not necessary to add much to the preceding account of the Eufus Tree and the Eufus Stone. It was in 1745 that Lord Delaware had, according to his own statement, seen the fatal Oak standing on the spot where the Eed King is beHeved to have fallen. The same cause 218 Gilpin's forest scbneet. wliich, in all probability, promoted tbe disappearance of the tree, facilitated the destruction of the stone erected by Lord Delaware, namely, the depredations of relic hunters. In consequence of the mutilation of the first Memorial Stone, and of the defacement of the original inscription, a new one, encased in iron, with the same inscription as that on the original one, wrought on the iron, was erected on the site of the old stone, in 1841, by Mr. William Sturges Bourne. This is the memorial which now stands in Canterton Glen, the reputed scene of the death of Eufus. We have, in another place,* fully given our own reasons for our belief that the spot marked by the Eufus Stone was the one on which the Eed King actually fell. — Ed. The next tree I shall exhibit from New Forest, is the Groaning Tree of Badesley, a village about two miles from Lymington. The history of the Groaning Tree is this. About forty years ago, a cottager, who lived near the centre of the village, heard frequently a strange noise behind his house, like that of a person in extreme agony. Soon after it caught the attention of his wife, who was then confined to her bed. She was a timorous woman, and, being greatly alarmed, her husband * ■ In Our Woodland Trees. CELEBRATED TREES. 219 endeavoured to persuade her that the noise she heard was only the bellowing of the stags in the forest. By degrees, however, the neighbours on all sides heard it, and the thing began to be much talked of. It was by this time plainly discovered that the groaning noise proceeded from an Elm, which grew at the end of the garden. It was a young, vigorous tree, and to all appearance perfectly sound. In a few weeks the fame of the Groaning Tree was spread far and wide, and people, from all parts, flocked to hear it. Among others, it attracted the curiosity of the late Prince and Princess of Wales, who resided, at that time, for the advantage of a sea bath, at Pilewell, the seat of Sir James Worsley, which stood within a quarter of a mile of the Groaning Tree. Though the country people assigned many superstitious causes for this strange phenomenon, the naturalist could assign no physical one that was in any degree satisfactory. Some thought it was owing to the twisting and friction of the roots. Others thought it proceeded from water, which had collected in the body of the tree, or 220 Gilpin's POEEST SCBNEEY. perhaps from pent air. But no cause that wa^ alleged, appeared equal to the effect. In the meantime the tree did not always groan, some- times disappointing its visitants ; yet no cause could be assigned for its temporary cessations, either from seasons or weather. If any difference was observed, it was thought to groan least when the weather was wet, and most when it was clear and frosty ; but the sound, at all times, seemed to arise from the root. Thus the Groaning Tree continued an object of astonishment during the space of eighteen or twenty months, to all the country around ; and, for the information of distant parts, a pamphlet was drawn up, containing a particular account of all the circumstances relating to it. At length, the owner of it, a gentleman of the name of Forbes, making too rash an experiment to discover the cause, bored a hole in its trunk. After this it never groaned. It was then rooted up, with a further view to make a discovery ; but still nothing appeared which led to any investiga- tion of the cause. It was universally, however, believed that there was no trick in the affair, but CELEBRATED TEEES. 221 that some natural cause really existed, though never understood. The last celebrated tree, which I shall present to the reader from New forest, is the Cadenham Oak, which buds every year in the depth of winter. Cadenham is a village about three miles from Lyndhurst, on the Salisbury road. Having often heard of this Oak, I took a ride to see it on the 29th of December, 1781. It was pointed out to me among several other Oaks, surrounded by a little forest stream, Avinding round a knoll on which they stood. It is a tall, straight plant of no great age, and apparently vigorous, except that its top has been injured, fi-om which several branches issue in the form of pollard shoots. It was entirely bare of leaves, as far as I could discern, when I saw it, and undistinguishable from the other Oaks in its neighbourhood, except that its bark seemed rather smoother — occasioned, I apprehend, only by frequent climbing. Having had the account of its early budding confirmed on the spot, I engaged one Michael Lawrence, who kept the "White Hart, a small ale- house in the neighbourhood, to send me some of( 222 Gilpin's forest soeneet. the leaves to Vicar's Hill, as soon as they should appear. The man, who had not the least doubt about the matter, kept his word, and sent me several twigs, on the morning of the 5th of January, 1782, a few hours after they had been gathered. The leaves were fairly expanded, and about an inch in length. From some of the buds two leaves had unsheathed themselves ; but, in general, only one. Through what power in Nature this strange, premature vegetation is occasioned, I believe no naturalist can explain. I sent some of the leaves to one of the ablest botanists we have had, the late Mr. Lightfoot, author of the Flora Scotica, and was in hopes of hearing something satisfactory on the subject. But he is one of those philosophers, who are never ashamed of ignorance, where at- tempts at knowledge are mere conjecture. He assured me, that he neither could account for it in any way, nor did he know of a,ny other in- stance of premature vegetation, except the Glas- tonbury Thorn. The philosophers of the forest, in the meantime, account for the thing at once, through the influ- CELELEATED TEEES. 223 ence of old Christmas-day — universally believing tliat tlie Oak buds on that day, and that only. The same opinion is held with regard to the Glas- tonbury Thorn by the common people of the "West of England. But, without doubt, the germination there is gradual ; and forwarded or retarded by the mildness or severity of the weather. One of its progeny, which grew in the gardens of the duchess dowager of Portland, at Bulstrode, had its flower-buds perfectly formed, so early as the 21st of December, 1781, which is fifteen days earlier than it ought to flower, according to the vulgar prejudice.* * 111 the Salishury Journal, January 10th, 178G, the fol- lowing paragraph appeared : — ' In consequence of a report that has prevailed in this country for upwards of two centuries, and which by many has heen almost considered as a matter of faith, that the Oak at Caden- ham, in the New Porest, shoots forth leaves on every old Christmas Day, and that no leaf is ever to be seen on it, either before or after that day, during the winter, a lady, who is now on a visit in tliis city, and who is attentively curious in every- thing relative to art or ITature, made a journey to Cadenham, on Monday, the 3rd instant, purposely to inquire, on the spot, about the production of this famous tree. On her arrival near it, the usual guide was ready to attend her; but, on his being 224 Gilpin's forest scenery. This early spring, however, of the Cadenham desired to climb the Oak, and to search, whether there were any leaves then on it, he said it would he to no purpose, hut that if she would come on the Wednesday following (Christmas Day) she might certainly see thousands. However, he was prevailed on to ascend, and on the first branch which he gathered appeared several fair new leaves, fresh sprouted from the buds, and nearly an inch and a half in length. It may be imagined that the guide was more amazed at this premature production than the lady ; for so strong was his belief in the truth of the whole tradition, that he would have pledged his life that not a leaf was to have been discovered on any part of the tree before the usual hour. ' Eut though the superstitious part of this ancient legend is hence confuted, yet it must be allowed that there is something very uncommon and curious in an Oak's constantly shooting forth leaves at this unseasonable time of the year, and that the cause of it well deserves the' philosoiihical attention of the botanist. In some years there is no doubt but that this Oak may show its fird loaves on Iho Cliristmas morning, as probably as on a few days before ; and this, perhaps, was the case in the last year, Avlien a gentleman of this neighbourhood, a nice and critical observer, strictly examined the branches, not only on the Christmas morn, but also on the day prior to it. On the first day not a leaf was to be found, but on the following every branch had its complement, though they were then but just shooting from the buds, none of them being more than a quarter of an inch long. The latter part of the story may easily be credited, that no leaves are to be seen on it after Christmas Day, as large parties yearly assemble about the Oak on that morning, and regularly strip every ajipearance of a leaf from it.' CELEBRATED TREES. ' 225 Oak is of very short duration. The buds, after unfolding themselves, make no further progress ; but immediately shrink from the season, and die. The tree continues torpid, like other deciduous trees, during the remainder of the winter, and vegetates again in the spring, at the usual season. I have seen it, in full leaf, in the middle of summer, when it appeared, both in its form and foliage, exactly like other Oaks. I have been informed that another tree, with the same property of early germination, has been lately found near the spot where Eufus's monu- ment stands. If this be the case, it seems, in some degree, to authenticate the account which Camden * gives us of the scene of that prince's death : for he speaks of the premature vegetation of that very tree on which the arrow of Tyrrel glanced ; and the tree I now speak of, if it really exist, though I have no sufficient authority for it, might have been a descendant of the old Oak, and have inherited its virtues. It is very probable, however, there may be * Soo Camden's Account of Ifew Forest. V 226 Gilpin's forest scenery. other Oaks in the forest, -which may hkewise have the property of early germination. I have heard it often suspected that people gather bnds from other trees, and carry them, on old Christmas-day, to the Oak at Cadenham, from whence they pre- tended to pluck them. For that tree is in such repute, and resorted to annually by so many visitants, that I think it could not easily supply all its votaries, without foreign contributions. Some have accounted for this phenomenon by supposing that leaves have been preserved over the year by being steeped in vinegar. But I am well satisfied this is not the case. Mr. Light- foot, to whom I sent the leaves, had no such suspicion. Mr. Wise in his work on the New Forest, already referred to, says concerning this famous tree, 'To the east, about two miles along the Southampton Road, lies the village of Cadenham, famous for its Oak, which, like the Glastonbury Thorn, buds on Christmas Eve. The popular tradition in the neighbourhood runs, that, as the weather is harder, it shows more leaves, and refusing the present chronology, only buds on old Christmas night. As in most things, there is some little truth in the story. Doubtless in some of the mild winters which visit Hamp- CELEBEATED TEBES, 227 shirej the tree shows a few buds, as at that time I have seen others do iu various parts of the forest. Of course, they are all nipped by the first approach of severe weather, which, however, seldom happens in the warm south-west coast till the new year/ (Page 110). During a recent visit to the Cadenham Oak — which is still living — (in the present year, 1879) we were satisfied, from inquiries we made, as to the correctness of the statements respecting its budding at Christmas ; though, when we saw it, just putting on its spring foliage, it was, if anything, less for- ward in leaf than the majority of the other Oaks in the forest. Its trunk is now hollow, aud half of the shell is gone. We took the girth of the half bole at three feet from the ground and found it eight and a half feet. Colonel Bsdaile, of Burley Manor, informs us that at Burley is a tree called ' The Miracle Oak,' which, like its congener at Cadenham, also buds at Christmas time. — Ed. Anotter tree worth pointing out in New Forest, is an immense Yew, wliicli stands in the churoli- yard at Dibden. It is now, and probably Las been during tlie course of the last century, in the decline of life. But its hollow trunk still supports three vast stems, and measures below them about • thirty feet in circumference — a girth which perhaps no other Yew Ti-ee iu England can exhibit. p 2 228 Gilpin's fokest scenery. Thougli its age cannot be ascertained, we may easily suppose it lias been a living witness of the funerals of, at least, a dozen generations of the inhabitants of the parish. From Mr. W. Gascoigne Roy, of Byams, Marchwood, we learn tliat the old Tew Tree in Dibden Churcliyard has now disappeared. During a severe gale on the 30th of November, 1836, the larger portion of its trunk was up- rooted and fell to the ground. Not very long since a part of its stump was visible, but that has now become lost to sight. A table made from its wood is in the pos- session of the family of Mr. Gray, the late Eector of Dibden. Mr. Roy adds, — 'There is a juvenile Yew, of something under a hundred yeai's old, close to the spot where the old Yew stood, — possibly a seedling from it.' —Ed. But it is not only to exhibit these venerable remains of antiquity, that I would draw the curious to this spot ; but for the sake also of the views which it presents. From this lofty stand, the eye looks down, over a woody bottom, upon the bay of Southampton, spread far and wide below it ; covered with shipping, and extending like a vast lake. Far up the bay, on the opposite side, the hazy towers of Southampton appear shooting into CELBBEATBD TREES. 229 the water ; and, beyond all, the opening of the river Itching, and the faint streaks of a distant country, stretching away, till it is lost in the high grounds beyond Winchester. In another direction the eye is carried down the bay, along the wooded shores of Netley Abbey, and over a remote dis- tance, till the view is closed by the rising grounds of Portsdown. The last tree I shall introduce from New Forest, is remarkable for exhibiting a very uncommon in- stance of the power of vegetation. About ten years ago, among the ruins of the wall which formerly surrounded the Abbey of Beaulieu, stood an Oak, contiguous to a part of the Avail, and extended one of its principal limbs in close con- tact, aloEg the summit of it. This limb, at the distance of about three yards from the parent tree, formed a second stem upon the wall, by shooting a root into some fissure, in which it probably found a deposit of soil. This root, run- ing along the bottom of the wall, and finding some crannies in it, rose twice again through it, and formed a third and a fourth considerable stem, each at the distance of about three yards 230 Gilpin's porbst sgenert. from its neiglibonr. The fourtli of these stems shot a branch again along the snmmit of the wall, and in close contact with it, forming a fifth stem in the same manner that the parent tree had formed the second. This last stem is again making an effort on the wall to extend this curious mode of vegetation still further. In a great storm which happened in February, 1781, a part of the wall was blown down, and those two stems with it, which were nearest the parent tree. Each of these stems was about four or five feet in diameter, and the timber of them was sold for thirty shillings, which shows their bulk was not trifling. We seldom meet with an instance of so intimate a connexion between an Oak Tree and a stone wall. •Lord Henry Scott has kindly made inquii-ies for us as to the Beaulieu Oakj whose curious mode of growth is described by Gilpin in the preceding paragraph, but with- out being able to find any trace of the tree, or to hear of any tradition relating to it. The whole of the paragraph concerning this Oak was added by Gilpin to the second edition of the ' Forest Scenery/ published in 1 794 ; and though it would appear — from the words, ' This last stem is again making an effort/ &c. — that when Gilpin wrote the CELEBRATED TREES. 281 paragrapli tlie Oak was still living, it will be noticed that, in first mentioning it, he says ' About ten years ago,' &c., ' stood an Oak.' Possibly the entire tree may hare dis- appeared before the j^iMication of the 'Forest Scenery,' the manuscript of which was written, as our Author stated, ten years before it was first published. — Ed. BOOK 11. COMBINATIONS OF TEEES. drnmbiitatioiTB of %xzts. SECTION I. TREES IN CLUMPS. . ROM considering trees as indi- viduals, we proceed next to con- sider them under their various combinations; among which clumps are the simplest. What number o£ trees make a clump no rules of art prescribe. The term has rather a relative meaning. In scenes brought near the eye we call three or four trees a clump ; but in distant and exten- sive scenery we scruple not to use the 'term for any smaller detached part of a wood, though it may consist of some hundreds. But though the term admits not of exact definition, I shall en- 236 Gilpin's fobest scenery. deavoiir, by amplification, to make the ideas contained under it as distinct as I can. We distinguish, then, two kinds of clumps ; the smaller and the larger ; confining the former chiefly to the foreground, and considering the latter as the ornament of a dista,nce. With regard to the smaller clum.p its chief beauty arises from contrast in the parts. We have seen that in single trees each must have its characteristic beauty; it has nothing else to depend on. But in combination the beauty of the individual is not required; the tvliole clump together must produce the effect. To enumerate all the sources of beautiful con- trast which contribute to produce this effect might be difficult. I shall cursorily suggest a few. In the first place the relative situation of trees with regard to each other should be considered. Three trees, or more, standing in a line, are formal. In the natural wood you rarely see this formality ; and yet even three trees in a line will be greatly assisted by the different directions of the several trunks, and by the various forms, distances, and growth of the trees. TKEBS IN CLUMPS. 237 If three trees do not stand in a line they must of course stand in a triangle, "wliich produces a great variety of pleasing forms. If a fourth tree be added it stands beautifully near the middle of the triangle, of whatever form the triangle may be. If it be equilateral, and the tree placed exactly in the middle, there are three points, as you walk round the triangle, from which it will appear offensively regular. Ke- marks, however, of this kind affect only young trees, while their stems are tall and similar. As they increase, their different modes of growth, the swelling of their roots, the habits they contract from winds, their ramification, their lateral branches, and other accidental circumstances, introduce endless varieties among them, and blot out many of those little formalities which attend their youth; though, after all, the artificial clump will rarely attain the beauty of the natural one. If the clump consist of still more trees than four, a greater variety among the stems will, of course, take place — double triangles, irregular qmncunxes, and other pleasing shapes, which 238 Gilpin's forest sceneey. may be seen exemplified in every wood of natural growth. The branches, also, are as much a source of contrast as the stem. To be picturesque they must intermingle with each other without heavi- ness — they must hang loosely, but yet with varied looseness on every side — and if there be one superior apex there may be two or three others that are subordinate, according to the size of the clump. Different kinds of trees, also, in the same clump occasion often a beautiful contrast. There are few trees which will not harmonize with trees of a different kind, though perhaps the most simple and beautiful contrasts arise from the various modes of growth in the same species. "We often see two or three Oaks intermingle their branches together in a very pleasing manner. When the Beech is full grown, it is generally (in a luxuriant soil at least) so heavy that it rarely blends happily either with its own kind or with any other. The Silver Kr too, we have observed, is a very unaccommodating tree. So also are other Firs ; indeed all that taper to a point. Not so the 'gii.pin's forest scenery.' 339 Three ill-shaped tiees, formed into a good group. [Ptr^e 241. TBBES IN CLOMPS. 241 Pine race. They are clump-lieadedj and unite well in composition. With these, also, the Scotch Fir leagues ; from little knots of which we often . see beautiful contrasts arise. "When they are young and luxuriant, especially if any number of them above four or five are planted together, they generally form a heavy, murky spot ; but, as they acquire age, this heaviness goes off, the inner branches decay, the outward branches hang loosely and negligently, and the whole has often a good effect, unless they have been planted too closely. I am rather doubtful ho\v far deciduous trees mix well in a clump with evergreens ; and yet we sometimes see a natural good effect of light and shade from the darkness of the Fir contrasting, agreeably, with the sprightly green of a deciduous tree just coming into leaf. In this, however, I am clear, that, if they are mixed, they ought not to be planted, as they often are, alternately, but each kind together. Contrasts again arise from the mixture of trees of unequal growth — from a young tree united with an old one — a stunted tree with a luxuriant one- — and sometimes from two or three trees, which, in 242 Gilpin's FOREST scENEEY. themselves, are ill-sliaped, but, when combined, are pleasing. Inequalities of all these kinds are what chiefly give Nature's planting a superiority- over art. The form of the foliage is another source of contrast. In one part, where the branches inter- mingle, the foliage will be interwoven and close ; in another, where the boughs of each tree hang separately, the appearance will be light and easy. But whatever beauty these contrasts exhibit, the effect is totally lost unless the group be luell- halanced. This is as necessary in a combination of trees as in a single tree.* The clump is con- sidered as one object, and the support of the whole must depend on the several trunks and leading branches of which it is composed. We do not expect the minutise of scale and weight ; if no side preponderate so as to hurt the eye it is enough. Unless, however, the grouj) have suf- fered some external injury it is seldom deficient in point of balance. Nature always conducts the stems and branches in such easy forms, wherever * See page 12. 'rjILPlN'S FORKST SCENliUY. 243 A well-balanced group. \_P rt ,X3 1 J 1 i .i '41 ii ^ 1 I . ' 3 ^ 1 if) ^ c o irt 'Gilpin's forest scenery. 309 ■a a < ¥,i SECTION VIII. clt\^C^ ^0^ DISTANT FOEJiST SCBNEEY. \JIE permanent beauties of a distant woody scene arise, first, from its form. There is as mucli variety in the form of a distant ivood as in that of a single tree. We sometimes see continuous woods stretching along the horizon without any break. All seems of equal growth ; the summit of the wood is contained under one straight line. This, except in very remote distance, is formal, heavy, and dis- gusting. The shape of distant woods is then only picturesque when it is broken by a varied line. This variation is, in some degree, occa- sioned by the different sizes of trees ; but as the 312 gilfin's forest scenbey. size of trees where tlie distance is great has httle effect, it is chiefly, and most essentially, occa- sioned by the inequalities of the ground. A regular line at the base of a long range of woody scenery is almost as disgusting as at the summit of it. The woods must in some parts approach nearer the eye, and in other parts retire, forming the appearance of bays and pro- montories. At least, this is the most beautiful shape in which they appear. Sometimes, indeed, the' inequalities of the ground prevent the eye from seeing the base of the wood; for, as the base is connected with the ground, it is commonly more obscured than the summit, which ranges along the sky. All square, round, picked, or other formal shapes in distant woods are disgusting. There should not only be breaks, but contrast also between the several breaks of a distant forest scene. A line regularly varied disgusts as much as an unvaried one. Among the permanent beauties of distant woods, may be reckoned also the various kinds of trees, of which they are often composed. DISTANT FOREST SOENEET. 313 Unless the distance be great, this mixture has its effect in the variety it produces both in form and colour. Large bodies of Fir also, and other species of Pines, have often a rich appearance, in a distance, among deciduous trees; but they must be Scotch Firs, Pinasters, Cluster Pines, or other clump-headed trees. The spiry-headed race, the Spruce Fir, the Silver Fir, and the Weymouth Pine, have here, too, as well as in the clump, a bad effect. Single they are sometimes beautiful ; or two or three of them, here and there, by way of contrast, in large plantations, may be pictu- resque; but I think they are never so in large bodies. In general, however, the picturesque eye is httle curious with regard to the kind of trees which compose a distant scene, for there are few kinds which do not harmonize together. It matters more, in this bold style of landscape, that the masses, of each different hind, should be large. The opposition is then strongly marked, and the contrast striking. If different trees are grouped in small bodies, the effect is totally lost in distance. The last species of jjermanent beauty which we 314 Gilpin's foeest scenery. take notice of in distant forest scenery arises from worhs of art. We mean not tbe embellish- ments of art, but sucli rude ivories as may almost be styled tlie works of Nature — tlie productions of convenience rather than of taste. "We certainly draw the most picturesque objects from the grand store-house of Nature, though we condescend to admit artificial objects also ; but, when they are admitted in this class, they must always be of the rough rather than of the polished kind. J Such objects we often meet with in the Iwild scenes of the forest, — spires, towers, lodges, bridges, cattle-sheds, cottages, winding pales, and other things of the same kind, which have often as beautiful an effect when seen at a distance, as we have just observed they have when spar- ' ingly met with in the internal parts of a forest. \Only, the nearer the object is, we expect its form must be the more picturesque. Distance, no doubt, hides defects; and many an object may appear well in a remove, which, brought oaearer, would disgust the eye. SECTION IX. SCENERY APPECTBD BY THE WEATHER. I