CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND GIVEN IN 1891 BY HENRY WILLIAMS SAGE Cornell University Library DS 66.G24L2 Land of the HIttites, iiillllii 3 1924 028 539 736 All books are subject to recall after two weeks. Olln/Kroch Library DATE DUE n 1' ' "^ mm, : *doW 1 5 awp -m^-^ »f155^ My 1 8 7008 ! I ,( 1 ! 6AYL0RD PRINTED IN U.SA The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028539736 THE LAND OF THE HITTITES THE LAND OF THE HITTITES AN ACCOUNT OP RECENT EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES IN ASIA MINOR, WITH DESCRIP- TIONS OP THE HITTITB MONUMENTS With Maps and Plans , Ninety-nine Photographs and a Bibliography BT JOHN GAKSTANG D.Sc. B.Litt. M.A. RANKIN PROFESSOR OF THE METHODS AND PRAOTICB OF AHCH^OLOOT IN THE UNrVERSITY OP LIVERPOOL ; FELLOW OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES OF LONDON HON. MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF NORTHERN ANTIQUARIES, COPENHAGEN NEW ^RK E. P. BUTTON AND CO. 1910 f. ^u University of Liverpool Institute of Archaeology irt- .ytt r-^O"**^^ TO MY WIFE • INTRODUCTORY NOTE By the Rev. Professor A. H. Sayce, D.D., D.LiTT., M.A. The history of ancient Oriental civilisation is slowly revealing itself to the excavator and archseologist. Scientific excavations have been carried on in Egypt, Assyria, Babylonia, and Palestine; it is now the turn of Asia Minor, both north and south of the Taurus ; and there are indications that the revelation which Asia Minor and the neighbouring lands of Syria have in store for us will be even more startling than that which has come from Egypt and Babylonia. There we already knew that great empires and wide-reach- ing cultures had once flourished ; the earlier history of Asia Minor, on the other hand, was a blank. But the blank is beginning to be filled up, and we are learning that there too an empire once existed, which contended on equal terms with those of the Nile and the Euphrates, and possessed a culture that formed a link between the east and the west. What I once called the forgotten empire of the Hittites is at last emerging into the light of day, and before long much viii THE LAND OF THE HITTITES that is still mysterious in the art and religion of Greece and Europe will be explained. This much has already been ascertained by the excavations made by the German expedition under Professor Winckler at Boghaz-Keui, north of the Halys, the site of the Hittite capital. But there are many other sites in Asia Minor and northern Syria where Hittite culture once flourished, and where, therefore, discoveries similar to those which have startled the scientific world at Boghaz-Keui may be expected to be made. Some of these sites were examined by Professor Garstang in his preliminary journeys of exploration ; at another he has begun the work of excavation and brought to light important remains of art and antiquity. Sakje-Geuzi lies at a short distance from Sinjerli, where German excavators have discovered monuments which form the chief attraction of the Hittite section in the Museum of Berlin. The mound of Sakje-Geuzi represents a continuous history of unnumbered cen- turies. The earlier strata are the accumulation of a neolithic people ; above them come the ruins of Hittite and Aramaean builders. The temple dis- interred by Professor Garstang shows us what Hittite art was like in the Syria of the tenth and following centuries before our era, and enables us to guess at the character of the cult that was carried on in it. In the following pages he has given an account of his work and the conclusions that may be drawn from INTRODUCTORY NOTE ix it. This, however, occupies but a small portion of his book. Its main purpose is to review our present knowledge of Hittite history, art, and archaeology; to describe the Hittite monuments now known to exist, and to trace the story of the Hittite empire as it has been revealed to us by recent dis- coveries. Among the great political forces of the ancient Oriental world we now know that none exercised a more profound influence than the Hittites of Asia Minor. It was they who overthrew the Amorite dynasty of Babylonia to which the Amraphel of Genesis belonged ; to them was due the fall of the Egyptian empire in Asia, and it was they who checked for centuries the desolating advance of the Assyrians. In Palestine their influence was supreme, and it is with good reason that in the tenth chapter of Genesis Heth is named second among the sons of Canaan. They were the founders of the Heraklid dynasty in Lydia, and Babylonian art as modified in Asia Minor was carried by them to the Greek seas. Greek religion and mythology owed much to them; even the Ama- zons of Greek legend prove to have been the warrior- priestesses of the great Hittite goddess. Above all, it was the Hittites who controlled the mines of Asia Minor which supplied the ancient world with silver, copper, lead, and perhaps also tin. Before the age of Abraham traders carried the bronze of Asia Minor to Assyria and Palestine, and thus transformed the whole culture of western Asia. The story of the forgotten X THE LAND OF THE HITTITES people is a fascinating one, and the reader cannot do better than study it under the guidance of Professor Garstang, whose work will be the standard authority on the subject for a long while to come. A. H. Saycb. NtJBiA, December 1, 1909 AUTHOR'S PREFACE Since Professor Sayce and Dr. Wright first called atten- tion, more than thirty years ago, to the forgotten empire and civilisation of the Hittites, no book has appeared to keep the English reader abreast of the further informa- tion which has since come to light upon that subject. In the meantime researches made by British and German explorers in northern Syria and Asia Minor, and the studies of numerous scholars who have applied them- selves to this problem, have advanced the position so far that the Hittites are nebulous no longer, but stand revealed in the clear light of history, claiming the attention of all those interested in the story of the Bible Lands, of Asia Minor, and of early Greece. The position and character of Asia Minor lend a wide interest and charm to its past no less than its present. The present volume aims at filling the gap which has already grown too wide. It starts ab initio with a rapid survey of the Hittite lands, and an outline of their history. The Hittite monuments are then passed in review, each described separately and independently, in such a way as to be useful to any one visiting them in situ or in the museums of Constantinople and Berlin, where there are departments devoted specially to this branch of archaeology. The bibliography and numerous xii THE LAND OF THE HITTITES cross-references in the footnotes will, it is hoped, make the work handy to the archaeologist as a book of reference. The author's own theories are mostly con- fined to the last chapter, and an effort has been made to distinguish between facts proved or generally ac- cepted and matters of personal opinion. The attempt to reconstruct the history of the fourteenth and thirteenth centuries B.C. from the archives recently dis- covered by Dr. Winckler at Boghaz-Keuiis put forward tentatively, and would doubtless have been better done by a philologist. It has been found impossible to treat the subject of Hittite art and religious symbolism in general within the limited scope of this volume and its title. Some other points are best noted at the outset. One aim. of the book being to interest the English reader in a fascinating but neglected subject, the bibliographical references are given in English wherever translations of foreign authors are available. Unhappily some of the masterpieces of modern scholarship, like Meyer's Geschichte des Alterthums, are not yet rendered into English. The geographical names employed, even at the risk of inconsistency, are those most familiar or in common use. Thus Hamath instead of Hama, Aleppo for Haleb, Carchemish for Jerablus, Tyana for Kilisse Hissar. In regard to the term ' Hittite,' also, the word is primarily used in reference to that class of monu- ments generally known as Hittite, and hence to the ancient people whose handiwork these were. The word Hatti is used in a more restricted sense, to imply AUTHOR'S PREFACE xiii the central and at one time dominant Hittite state or states whose seat and centre of organisation was at Boghaz-Keui. But it should not be forgotten that actually the words Hittite and Hatti are interchange- able. There are many friends who have helped forward the completion of the work at various stages. Among them are the writer's colleagues during two of his journeys of exploration in Asia Minor. The Rev. W. M. Linton Smith has corrected several chapters in proof, and has provided several photographs of the Phrygian monuments. Mr. Arthur Wilkin has kindly supplied the photographs of Ephesus, Sardis, and the goddess on Mount Sipylus. The bulk of the illustra- tions, however, are the handiwork of Mr. Horst Schliep- hack, and they speak for themselves. Any one who has attempted photography under the conditions of travel in Asia Minor will realise the skill with which these results have been obtained. In Constantinople our work has received the constant help of Sir Edwin Pears and Mr. G. H. Pitzmaurice ; while H.E. the late Hamdi Bey greatly facilitated our expeditions by his good- will as Director of the Imperial Ottoman Museum. In this connection we cannot omit to mention those patrons of science whose generosity provided the means of carrying out these expeditions, namely, the Right Hon. Sir John T. Brunner, Bart., M.P., the late Dr. Ludwig Mond, Mr. Ralph Brocklebank, Mr. Martyn Kennard, and Mr. Robert Mond. These gentlemen have earned the gratitude of all those interested in xiv THE LAND OF THE HITTITES the advance of knowledge ; and the writer trusts sincerely that they will find within these pages some- thing that will reward their interest in these under- takings. Mr. Hogarth and Dr. Messerschmidt are also to be thanked for the loan of several photographs, and for the facilities granted in the museums at Oxford and Berlin respectively under their control. The brunt of the proof-reading has again been borne by the Rev. W. Macgregor, and Mrs. R. Gurney has also helped again in the revision of a considerable portion of the manuscript previous to printing ; in this connec- tion the help and kindly criticism of colleagues at Liverpool is not forgotten. ' Finally to Professor Sayce the writer's warmest gratitude is due, both for his first lessons in Hittite lore, and for the constant stimulus of suggestion and correction given unstintingly from the funds of his knowledge. The pleasant labour of the best part of two years devoted to the preparation of this volume has been amply rewarded by many delightful days spent with him amid the Past in Oxford and Edinburgh and on the Nile. J. G. Merob, February 7, 1910. CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTORY NOTE: By the Rev. Professor A. H. Satcb, LL.D., D.D., D.Litt. . . vii AUTHOR'S PREFACE, . . . . xi I. A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY, . . . 1-50 Boundaries and physical features (pp. 2-4) ; eastern Taurus and Anti-Taurus (p. 5) ; northernmost Syria : the plains, the valleys of the Afrin and Kara Su (pp. 6-13) ; Passes of the Amanus (pp. 14-15) ; Valley of the Orontes (p. 16). Plateau of Asia Minor, boundaries and features (pp.l7- 19) ; five regions (pp. 20-21) ; position of Ceesarea, the roads (pp. 22-25) ; the Halys River (pp. 26-28), its basin (pp. 29-31) ; position of Boghaz-Keui and Eynk (pp. 32-33) ; northern roads and rivers (pp. 34-35) ; western regions, Angora, Phrygia, Konia (pp. 36-40); south- eastern region, Kara Dagh, Ivrtz, Tyana (pp. 41-42) ; Taurus : the Bulghar Dagh (pp. 43, 44), the Cilician Gates (pp. 45-47) ; Cilicia (pp. 48-50). ri. SOME PAGES OP HISTORY, . . . 51-73 Outline of Hittite period : the empire, revival and final submergence (pp. 52-55) ; survival of customs (p. 56). The Phrygians, in Assyrian and Greek history (pp. 57-58), their civilisation and monuments (pp. 59- 61) ; the Urartians and Cimmerians (p. 62). Lydia (pp. 63-64) ; Greek colonies (pp. 65, 66). Persian rule (p. 67). Alexander and Hellenising influences (pp. 67, 68). Roman period : Seleucids, kings of Pontus, Cilicians ; organisation (pp. 69-70); monuments (p. 71). The Saracen (Arab) conquests (p. 72) ; the Seljuk Turks (p. 73). xvi THE LAND OF THE HITTITES CHAP. PAGE III. MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES, . • 74-195 Preliminary : method of study (pp. 74-76), chronology (pp. 77-79), classiflcation (pp. 80-82), disposition (pp. 84-91). Section a.— Monuments of the north of Syria : Hamath, Restan, Aleppo (pp. 93-97); Kurts-oghlu, Sinjerli, Kara-burshlu, Sakje-Geuzi (pp. 98-106) ; Aintab, Killiz, Marash (pp. 107-122); Jerablus (Carchemish), Tell- Ahmar, Samsat, Rum-Kali (pp. 123-131). Section b.— Monuments in the Taurus and Anti-Taurus Malatia, Derendeh, Palanga, Gurun (pp. 132-144) ArslanTash, Albistan (pp. 132-146) ; Kuru-Bel(p. 147) Ekrek, Tashji, Fraktin (pp. 148-151). Section c— Monuments of the Halys Basin : Asarjik, Suasa (pp. 152, 153) ; Karaburna, Bogche, Yamoola (pp. 154-157) ; Boghaz-Keui, Denek Maden (pp. 158- 160). Section d.— Monuments of the West : Angora, Giaour- Kalesi, Yarre (Chesme Keupru), Doghanlu, Bey-Keui (pp. 161-167) ; Sipylus, Kara-Bel (pp. 168-172) ; Kolit- oghlu, Eflatoun-Bunar, Passiler (pp. 173-176). Section e. — Monuments of the South - East : Kara Dagh, Kizil Dagh (pp. 177-182) ; Emir-Ghazi, Ardis- tama (pp. 183, 184) ; Tyana, Bor, Nigdeh, Andaval (pp. 185-189); Bulghar-Madgn (p. 190) ; Ivriz (pp. 191-195). IV. THE NORTHERN CAPITAL : A Description of THE Ancient City at Boghaz-Keui and the Sculptures called Iasily Kaya, . . 196-241 Identity with Pteria (p. 197) ; history, economy, and situation (pp. 198-200) ; the acropolis ramparts, gate- ways and defences (pp. 201-205), Nishan Tash and other monuments (p. 206) ; the Lower Palace (pp. 207, 208) ; chronological evidences (pp. 209-211). CONTENTS xvu CHAP. PAGE Part ii.— The Rock-sculptures called lasily Kaya: Situation, description of sanctuary and decorative scheme (pp. 211, 213) ; leading figures of gods (pp. 214- 216) ; a priest-flgure (p. 217) ; procession of male figures (pp. 218-220) ; plan and schedule (p. 221) ; the leading goddesses, etc. (pp. 222, 223), procession of females (p. 224), the Priest-king (p. 225) ; ceremonial feast and monsters (p. 226). The Inner Gallery : the moving figures (p. 227); Dirk-deity (p. 228). General survey (pp. 230-232) ; historical considerations (pp. 233- 234) ; the divine triad (pp. 235-241). V. WALLED TOWNS AND PALACES, 242-314 Paet 1.— The Palace and Sculptures of Eyuk (pp. 242- 269). Researches (pp. 242, 243) : the site (pp. 244-245) ; the Sphinx-gate (pp. 246-248) ; buildings and masonry (pp. 249-252). The Sculptures: sphinxes, bull-god, priest and priestess, masons, musicians (pp. 253-262) ; the mother-goddess, lion corner-stone, groups (pp. 263-266) ; oblation scene, double eagle (pp. 267-270). Part ii.— The Town and Sculptures of Sinjerli (pp. 270- 298). Excavations, summary of results (pp. 270-273) ; reliefs from city gate, eagle-headed deities, horse- riders, vringed monsters, male figures, bovrman, hare and stag (pp. 274-276); citadel gate (pp. 277-278); reliefs — (i) charioteer and victim, (ii) warrior, (ill) lion, (iv) God of Chase, (v, vi) lion and monster (pp. 279- 283); (vii) man bearing kid, (viii) Ceremonial Feast, (ix, x) three male figures, (xi) archer, (xii-xiii) stag and kid, (xiv) winged lion rampant, (xv-xvi) figures with double hammer (pp. 284-288) ; (xvii) warrior and sphinx, (xviii) monster, (xix) figure of woman (pp. 289- 291); (xxiv, xxv) bull and horse-rider, (xxvi-xxvii) bull and man with clubs (pp. 292-294); (xxviii-xxix) pair of deer, (xxx) winged lion, (xxxi) warrior, (xxxii) hunter, (xxxiii) dog, (xxxiv) musician, (xxxv) male xviii THE LAND OF THE HITTITES CHAP. ^^^'^ figure, (xxxv, xxxvii) pair of goats (pp.295-296) ; recon- struction of gateway, lion corner-stones, two peculiar busts, the sphinx-bases (pp. 297-298). Part hi.— The ^Mounds and Palace-portico of Sakje- Geuzi (pp. 298-314). Local history and research, walled citadel (pp. 298-300); palace entrance, decorations, lion comer-stones (pp. 301-302) ; reliefs, eagle-headed deity, fertilising tree, sphinx, king-priest, attendants (pp. 303-308); sphinx-base (pp. 309-311) ; historical results, stratification, pottery, foreign relations (pp. 312-314). VI, THE STORY OF THE HITTITES, . . 315-391 The Authorities (pp. 315-316). The Hittites, their coming and settlement, early culture, earliest historical allusions (pp. 317-325.) The Hatti rulers ; conquests of Subbi-luliuma, treaties with Mitanni, the Amorites, and with Egypt (pp. 326-336). Empire of Subbi-luliuma, reign of Mursil ; Mutallu and the battle of Kadesh (pp. 337-343) ; Hattusil, the Egyptian treaty and foreign politics; his successors (pp. 346-352). Survey of Hittite civilisation under the Hatti ; the position of women, religion, organisation, the army, roads and cities, sculptures, and architecture (pp. 353-367). The Euro- pean migrations, disruption of the Hittite empire, the Muski, the Assyrians, Carchemish (pp. 368-371). The great revival, the ' Cilician ' empire, disposition of the Hittite kingdoms, with map, the balance of power (pp. 372-377.) Changes in decorative and religious art; Semitic influence in Syria (pp. 377-380). Oncoming of Assyria, coalitions of Hittite states, battle of the Qarqar, fall of Tarsus (pp. 381-384). The Vannic kings, conquests in Syria, decisive battle with Assyria; supremacy of Assyria in Syria ; fall of Carchemish, Marash and the Tabal (pp. 385-390). Epochs in Hittite history (pp. 390-391). CONTENTS xix PAGE Appendix A.— Bibliogbapht op Hittitb Archeology, 392-394 Appendix B.— Index to Hittite Monuments, with a Bibliography, . . . 395-401 Author Index, Classical and Biblical Beferences, 402-403 General Index, ..... 404-416 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Bulghar tains, PHOTOGRAPHS ■ MadSn : Approaching the Taurus Moun- Frontispiece n. III. IV. j (i) A Valley in the Taurus, ( (ii) Headwaters of the Halys near Sivas, Aleppo : View of the city from the citadel, Karakul : A Kurd family at home, . v. Kartal ( (i) Verandah of a house, . \(ii) Group of Turkoman women, VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XI. XII. XIII. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. XVIII. XIX. XX. XXI. XXII. XXIII. Bogche : A chief pass over the Amanus Mountains Beilan : Summit of the pass. Woodland on the south slopes of Taurus, CsEsarea : Cloister of a school, and citadel, . Injesu : Mosque and town, Halys River, between Chok Geuz and Blr Geuz, Yeni-Han, near Sekkili : Nomad encampment, {(i) Chesme Keupru : Interior of the han, . (ii) Sekkili (near) : Yuruk encampment, (i) Nefez-Keui : Women drawing water at the Spring, .... (ii) Tyaua : Turkish women and child, {(i) Yuzgat : Dervish and vagabonds, (ii) Kulakly Keui : Types of inhabitants, . Angora : Old houses on the outskirts, Nefez-Keui; Carpet-weaving, t(ii: ) Nefez-Keui : Minaret of the village mosque, ) Anatolian Horses : Noonday halt. Bor : Bridge over the Kizilja-Su, Approaching the Cilician Gates, Entrance of the Cilician Gates, (i) Going south through the Cilician Gates, i) Tarsus : The gardens and the town, [Tarsus : (i) The walls of Dunuk Tash, \ ,, (ii) Sacred stone at an Arab shrine. f(i) t(«) xxii THE LAND OF THE HITTITES Plate XXIV, xxv. XXVI. XXVII. XXVIII. XXIX. XXX. XXXI. XXXII. XXXIII. XXXV. XXXVI. XXXVII. XXXVIII. XXXIX. XL. XLI. XLII. XLIII. XLIV. XLV. XLVI. XL VII. XLVIII XLIX. L. LI. LII. ) Bey-Keui : The Royal Road, ) Dimerli : A fallen Lion, (i) Dimerli : The Lion tomb, (ii) Ayazln : Tomb with Lions, . (iii) Tyana : Phrygian inscription of Midas, View near Sardis : Valley of the Pactolus, Cilicia : Roman aqueducts over the Eastern plain, T, , [ (i) Roman Tomb, and . ^ Kyrrhus : ■[ ,; ' „ , , „ . , ^(ii) Ruined Bridge, . Baalbek : Sculpture and Temple Ruins, . Ephesus : The Library of Celsus, Angora : Temple of Rome and Augustus, Nigdeh : Portal of the White-Midresseh, 1223 A, Nigdeh : Tomb of the Seljuk period, (i) Ephesus : Mediseval fortress with Seljuk Remains, (ii) Konia ; Zazadln Han, of Seljuk work, Rowanduz Kaleh ; Mediseval fortress, Csesarea : Old Turkish cemetery, Hamath : Inscription in Hittite hieroglyphs, Aleppo : Fortress on the Acropolis, Sakje-Geuzi : Royal hunting scene, ( (i) Killiz : Bronze figures, \(ii) Denek Maden ; Ivory seal, . Aintab : Inscription on sculptured corner-stone, Marash : Architectural Lion corner-stone scribed, .... Rowanduz : Camp scene in the Qurt Dagh, f(i) Priest offering to lightning-god Malatia : -[ on bull, . (,(ii) Priestess offering to winged deity Palanga : Inscribed columnar statue, Ekrek: Hittite inscription with Christian em blems, ■ . . . . Fraktin : The rock-sculptures, . Bogche : Hittite inscription on round-topped stone, .... Yamoola : Giant eagle standing upon lions. Angora : The acropolis, . Ayazin : Rock-hewn tombs and church, ,, Roof of the church with dome, To face page 56 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Plate LIII. LIV. LV. LVI. LVII. LVIII. LIX. LXI. LXII. LXIII. LXIV. LXV. LXVI. LXVII. LXVIII. LXX. LXXI. LXXII. LXXIII. LXXIV. LXXV, LXX VI. LXXVII. LXXVIII. LXXIX. LXXX. Sipylus : Image of the Mother-goddess, . Kara-Bel : The Hittite God of Arms, Tyana : Ruined Koman aqueducts, Bor : Hittite inscription and relief, Ivrlz ; Giant sculptures on the rock, Boghaz-Keui : Site of Pteria, ,, Gorge of the Beuyuk Kayanin Daresi, .... ,, The Lion Gate, (i) The Fortress called Yenije-' Kaleh, (ii) Remains of the Lower Palace, Bird's-eye View of the Lower Palace, (i) Camp at the foot of Beuyuk"j Kaleh, . . .( (ii) lasily Kaya : Sculptures on the left, General view of lasily Kaya, Central sculptures at, Group of two monstrous figures. One of the female figures. The King-Priest at lasily Kaya, (i) The Small Gallery: view, A (ii) Hittite portraits, three V figures, . . .j , The dirk-deity, ,, Hittite God embracing the priest. Sculptures decorating frontage of palace. Shrine of the Mother-goddess, usicians vcith bagpipe and guitar, Coast Route round the Gulf of Issus, ) Ceremonial Feast, . ) Warrior with spear. Sculptures of gateway in situ, xxm To face page 168 :l Byuk; r (i) St \(ii) Mu uoute I Sin3erli:{« 1^' ) Hittite God of the Skies, ) God of the Double Axe, Sakje-Geuzi : Entrance to Palace, ,, Lion corner-stone (left). :} 172 184 188 192 200 202 204 206 208 210 212 214 218 222 224 226 228 232 252 260 270 280 286 292 300 302 Lion and adjoining sculptures (right), 304 xxiv THE LAND OF THE HITTITES Plate LXXXI. LXXXII. LXXXIII. Sakje-Geuzi To face page I Sculptures of left flanking wall, i) Continuation of the series, Sphinx-pedestal to central column, Hittite Allies :/«^°°^°i°^^- " j i:/« 3phi- '•) Lxxxiv. Surviving Types ) Proto-Greek, ) Amorite, ) Hittite, . t(ii LXXXV. Nomads passing into Asia Minor, Lxxxvi. Caesarea : Types of Semitic settlers, Lxxxvii. Yeni-Han : Group of nomad women, Lxxxviii. Battle of Kadesh : Hittite chariotry charging. 306 310 318 320 322 334 840 344 PLANS Boghaz-Keui : Plan of the Rock Sanctuary called lasily page Kaya, ....... 221 Eyuk ; Plan of the Sphinx-Gate, . . . .247 Sinjerli : Sketch Plan of Gateway, . . . 278 MAPS Hittite States after the Revival of the Tenth Century B.C., . 375 Submergence of the Hittite States (Eighth Century B.C.), . 385 Map of Hittite Sites in Asia Minor and Northern Syria, To face 390 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY At the outset of our undertaking we are faced by a considerable perplexity, in that the land we are setting forth to examine is practically undefined. We are guided indeed by vague and scanty historical references towards the north of Syria and the east of Asia Minor, but for a wider and surer delimitation, however incom- plete, we must rely on the evidence afforded by the dis- position of the Hittite monuments themselves. These cannot fix for us any certain boundaries, nor does the area throughout which they have as yet been found coincide with any great natural landmarks such as are w^ont to form the frontiers of nations. On the other hand, their curious disposition, and the very disunity of the tract they indicate, awaken our interest by a suggestion of unusual circumstances that could weld together, in political unity, peoples whose condi- tions of life so differed. And though mostly in the heart of a peninsula washed by the blue waves of two great inland seas, no part of the long coast-line can be in- cluded, upon present evidence, in our territory. Maybe the cause is only that the conditions there are not favourable to the preservation or recovery of monu- ments ; but none the less it is to be noted that no trace of Hittite handiwork has yet been found around the coast, whether along the wooded shores of the Black 2 THE LAND OF THE HITTITES Sea in the north, on the fertile inlets of the west,^ or on the rocky passes of the Syrian seaboard ; nor has any clear connection yet been shown between the Hittite confederated peoples and those sea-rovers who, from their harbours under the southern shelter of the Taurus, made piratical descents upon the Egyptian Delta in the thirteenth century B.C.^ Thus we see the Hittites as a purely inland people, not taking to the sea more kindly at any rate than do the Turkish peoples of to-day. The centre of their monuments is the mountainous region of the Taurus and Anti-Taurus systems, whence on the one hand they lead us down to the hot plains that lie betw^een the right bank of the Euphrates and Mount Amanus (the Giaour Dagh), with a continuation to the south by the valley of the Orontes as far as its sources in the Lebanon ; and on the other hand widen out to embrace not only the northern fringe of the Taurus Mountains, and the basin of the Halys River, but practically the whole broad tableland of Central Asia Minor, with one finger pointing down the Hermus valley past Sardis to the west. The inference to be derived from these preliminary considerations will receive confirmation as we proceed with our inquiry, when we shall find reason to believe that the peoples whose land we are trying to map out were of mountain origin. The problem of their settlement, however, remains obscure ; we must await the results of further investigations to determine whether it was a combined movement of peoples, bringing with them the elements of their civilisation, 1 We regard, however, the sculptures of Mount Sipylus (PI. liii.) and of Kara-Bel (PI. Liv.) as witnesses to the possession of inland passes leading to the Lydian coast. 2 In particular the Lycians (Lukki), who appear among the Hittite allies in the time of Rameses ii., and later with the sea-peoples in the reign of Meren-ptah. A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY 3 like the Turks in modern history, or whether for ages they endured the rigours of mountain life before they became strong enough to descend upon the hospitable plains below. The wilder mountains of Greater Armenia, east of the head-waters of the Euphrates, show no definite sign of Hittite settlement ; ^ but they form a distinctive boundary to our region, being the culmination of the system of which the Taurus are a part. Here too is the centre of mountain-ranges which, like the rivers rising in their heights, descend in several directions. To the north the towering peak of Ararat, seventeen thousand feet in height, looks down upon the green upland valleys of the Caucasus. Towards the east, the range which skirts the Caspian Sea connects beyond with the systems of Central Asia. Towards the south, another chain holds up as it were the highlands of Asia, on the one hand, giving way on the other to the basins of the Euphrates and the Tigris, and touching eventu- ally the eastern waters of the Persian Gulf. The Taurus system is another such chain trending westward, dividing Asia Minor from the rest of Asia, skirting the southern coast-line, then breaking and scattering as the level falls towards the west until it descends below the sea, where its hilltops, still pro- jecting, form the ^gean archipelago, until drawn together it rises to dry land on the soil of Greece. In the heart of these mountains, the two main sources of 1 There is no evidence to enable us to include the ' Vannio ' monuments. Cf. Sayce's Herodotus {LonAon, 1883), App. iv. p. 424 and below, pp. 54, 385; we exclude also as capable of other interpretation isolated discoveries of moveable monuments, like those at Kedabeg (Messerschmidt, Corpus Inscrip. Hettiticarum, Mitteilungen der Vorderasiatischen Gesellschaft, 1900, Pt. V. No. 1.), at Babylon {op. cit., Nos. 3, 4, 5), and Nineveh (ibid., PI. XXXIX. Nos. 2-9), etc. The inscribed stone reported as found near Erzerum, now in the museum at Constantinople, No, 1193, is of doubtful provenance {op. at, 1906, Pt. V. pp. 7, 8). 4 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY the river Euphrates flow in a westerly direction until they unite above Malatia ; ^ thence twisting and turning ever, in its search for a passage through the rocky ramparts that oppose it, the great river makes an easterly contour until nearing the plains. Before reaching Gerger, however, its direction is changed once more, turning westward in a long curve past Samsat towards Aintab, and southward to the latitude of Aleppo : from here its course becomes more tranquil and direct towards the Persian Gulf. The bend of the Euphrates below Malatia marks for the present the boundary of the Hittite country on the east. The whole mountainous region lying to the west of this landmark is divided by the gorges of the Pyramus, comprising the bleak easterly heights of the main Taurus range on the one hand, and the more broken but less barren regions of the Anti-Taurus which lie within. From the Taurus numerous torrents fall southward to join the bend of the Euphrates, while the northern slopes of the same range look down on the deep valley of the Tochma Su. This river, flowing eastward, is another main tributary of the Euphrates, which it joins not far from Malatia, and it forms our present boundary to the north in that direction.^ Its sources are found high up past Gurun in the main watershed, from which some rivers flow southward to the Cilician plain, others north-west to feed the Halys. The routes connecting the north of Syria with Asia Minor make use of these natural channels of approach. Thus the main road from Aintab northwards, after reaching the Pyramus near Marash, follows that river ' These Hittite sites are shown on the map, to face p. 390. 2 Mr. Hogarth, writing in the Recueil de Travaux, xvii., records that during his journeyings up through the valley he never saw nor heard of any pre-Hellenic monuments on the north side of the river. PLATE 11 A VALLEY IN THE TAURUS (Seej>. 5.) HEAD-WATEKS OF THE HALYS NEAIi SIVAS {Seep. 26.) VALLEYS OF THE TAUKUS 5 closely to Albistan, whence the bed of a stream leads up to the divide that gives way to the valley of the Tochma Su beyond. Derendeh is thus gained ; and up this new valley the road passes by Gurun northward, and so over the watershed to Sivas in the valley of the Halys. From Albistan another route leads eastward to Malatia ; and westward a path passing by Izgin rises over the mountains to the interior.^ A more direct route, however, from Aintab and Marash leads by the side of streams that feed the Pyramus north-west- ward up to Shahr (the classical Komana), on the sources of the Cilician Sarus ; thence, by one of several passes, among which is the Kuru-Bel, the head-waters of the Zamanti Su are reached, so leading down to Csesarea at the foot of Mount Argseus. The last-named river is tributary to the Sarus, passing by Ekrek, Tashji, and Fraktin on its course. It may be judged that a region so broken up by mountain-streams is not altogether barren or inclement. Its very altitude, averaging six thousand feet above the sea, gives respite from the summer heats that make life burdensome upon the Syrian plains. Green patches nestle under the shelter of its heights, protected there- by from the severity of winter blizzards when the mountain-passes may be filled with snow. And in its deeper valleys, though the actual banks are mostly rocky, yet the broad slopes on either side are generally favourable to the cultivation of cereals and other necessaries. The numerous fair towns that have sprung up in favoured spots, mostly upon Hittite sites, with their • gardens and vineyards, fruit and olive ' For these routes see Hogarth, Recueil de Travaux, xv. p. 29, and in Macan's Herodotus (1895), App. xiii. § 9; also Ramsay, Historical Geography, pp. 35, 46 ff. 6 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY plantations, their industries in weaving and em- broideries, reveal to us something of its attractions and the possibilities of ancient settlement. Just as the roadways of this region converge upon Marash, so from this centre other lines of communica- tion spread out into the regions of the south. On the one hand the valley of the Pyramus leads down to the Cilician plain ; on the other the road to Aintab, which we now follow, brings us to the northernmost parts of Syria, historically the scene of the struggles of the Hittites with the Pharaohs and with Assyria. The whole tract before us as far southward as Aleppo is of twofold character: on the east are the great plains that lie away to the Euphrates, while on the west two mountain-ranges intervene between these and the sea, lying parallel with one another and with the coast. The plains are really an apex to the Syrian desert, themselves watered sparsely by winter streams flowing to the Euphrates, with some independent rivers which, failing to find an exit, resolve themselves into small salt lakes and swamps. There are no trees or other protection against the withering sun, and the surface is broken only here and there by low ridges and the mounds which mark the sites of ancient settlements.^ The people are mostly Kurds, mingled with the settled descendants of northern Bedouins, using a primitive Arab speech. Their life is arduous : their crops are parched before they can be reaped ; but none the less out of generations of experience they find the means to live and feed their flocks. Except for local routes, the only roads which cross this desolate tract lead - For the modern condition and ancient importance of this region, see further : Layard, Nineveh and Babylon, p. 94 ;, Peters, Nippur, i. p. 81 ; Maspero, The Struggle of the Nations (London, 1896), pp. 144 and ff. ; and The Passing of Empires (1900), p. 35, with an illustration. PLATE III FEATURES OF NORTHERN SYRIA 7 from Aleppo and from Aintab to the crossing of the Euphrates now found at Birejik, not far from the site of ancient Carchemish at Jerablus.^ Aleppo itself must be classed as a city of the plain, though its economy is different. Here is the natural centre of commerce for the north of Syria and a great part of Western Asia. So, instead of being a peasant village upon a nameless stream, Aleppo has grown to be one of the fairest cities of the East. Local industries have developed, adding to its resources. Its stone- built houses and public places, its groves and fruit- gardens, as well as the hearty spirit of its people, are the tokens of its prosperity. Another town of con- siderable interest and importance is Killiz, on the border of the plain, midway between Aleppo and Ain- tab. In approaching this place the road passes through miles of olive-groves, which form long lines of dark green upon the red loamy soil. From Killiz as we turn westward the character of the landscape is immediately changed ; the plains are left behind, and the mountain country is entered that lies between them and the sea. Of the two ranges mentioned previously, the Qurt Dagh, which is first encountered, is less bold than its western neighbour, and also less continuous, giving way gradually towards the south. It is wild and varied enough, however, to provide a series of memorable panoramas of mountain ' Here also the Euphrates is still our eastern boundary ; for Tell-Ahmar, the scene of Mr. Hogarth's recent discoveries (p. 129), though on the further side, is on the water's edge ; and the few monuments found further east, like the seal from XTrfa (Messerschmidt, op. cit., C.I.H. 1900, PI. XLi. No. 3), and the palace sculptures of Tell-Halaf (Von Oppenheim, Der alte Orient, 1908, Heft 1), which owe something to Hittite iniluence, are not definite enough to imply Hittite occupation. That the river separated the land of Mitanni from the Hatti is substantiated by the archives of Boghaz-Keui (Winckler, Mitteilungen der D. Orient.-Ges. 1907, No. 35). On the rela- tion of Mitanni to Hittite see below, pp. 38, note 1, 324, note 2. 8 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY scenery. Northward the head-waters of the Af rln^ River have scoured deep gorges in its wooded heights ; and the main stream, flowing southward in a wild and sparsely cultivated valley, has hewn for itself a rocky bed through which it swirls until the hills are left behind, when turning Avestward it flows on to join the Orontes near to Antioch. In such a country it is not surprising that no Hittite monuments have been placed on record. It is in contact, nevertheless, on either hand, with places where some of the most instructive Hittite works have been discovered; and we are tempted therefore to linger somewhat in this unfamiliar region, seeking in the life and features of its people for living witness of the ancient civilisations in which it must have shared. The population is naturally scanty, and varies racially according to its disposition. On the basalt plateau which forms the eastern boundary to the valley, lead- ing down to Killiz and Aintab beyond, several villages of Kurdish families are found. Here communication with the towns is frequent, and mingling is not un- common accordingly with other elements of the Turkish people. The houses are often well constructed of masonry, for stone is plentiful ; indeed, the whole plateau is so thickly strewn that even the pathways are difficult and narrow, while before the plough can be put to the land a space must first be cleared at con- siderable labour. Consequently the amount of cultiva- tion is small, and even the sparse grain that grows wild over thousands of acres remains unreaped. In addition to the settled villages, and the tumbled ruins of many deserted hamlets, this high ground is freely sprinkled in the summer-time with the tents of nomads, ' Pronounced Afreen. PLATE IV KAKAKUL : A KUKD FAMILY AT HOME Husband, wiTe, child of nn elder wife ; two brothers, left. THE VALLEY OF THE AFRIN 9 either seeking refuge temporarily from the eastern plains, in accordance with a common practice, or halt- ing for a brief season on their endless journey. The rocky edges to this plateau on the western side are broken ever and again by rifts, down which a more copious supply of water tumbles from above, opening out into little nooks under the shelter of the heights before joining the main valley of the river below. In such places a village may be found amid a patch of comparatively luxurious cultivation, well illustrated by the vines and mulberries of Rowanduz. This pleasant spot lies at the foot of the steep descent from Karakul upon the plateau, and is marked by the ruins of a fine mediaeval castle crowning a prominent cone-like hill.^ The groves and gardens are watered by a primitive system of irrigation. The rich soil readily repays the labour bestowed upon it in however simple fashion. Lower down, in the main valley and nearer the river's bed, the aspect of the country is generally savage and neglected. A short withered scrub speckles the surface of the ground, which is reft in every direction by the dry gullies of winter torrents. The main routes, here as elsewhere, keep consistently along the higher levels, crossing the rifts near their beginnings, before they have become too rough and too steep to scale. Other tracks are found naturally along the river's bed, which they cross and recross, scaling the cliffs where the water has laid bare the rocks, and at other times passing through more open spaces cheered by narrow strips of corn-land and the rich bloom of a myriad oleanders, wherever the steep banks recede a little way on one side or the other. These lower tracks, however, are never easy to follow, even under favourable con- 1 See Plates xxxv., xliii. 10 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY ditions, on account alike of the numerous scranables over cliffs often shaly and precipitous, where a false step of horse or man might lead to disaster, and also of the numerous crossings of the river, often deceptive to any one unfamiliar with the fords. The latter obstacle becomes a grave danger after mountain storms which may have passed almost unnoticed in the valley. Even in summer-time thunder-clouds from time to time collect above the heights, and amid a gorgeous display of lightning and reverberating thunder a torrential rain transforms in a few minutes the rocky basin of the river. The dried-up gullies are now alive with splashing streams, and the slumbering rivulets become foaming torrents, the sudden uproar of scurrying streams and newly born cascades striking the ear with curious strangeness and foreboding.^ In an hour or two the streams are once more tranquil and the sun has reappeared ; but the river below has received nearly all the water that has fallen, and swirls on deep and dangerous. Fords that have little changed their ap- pearance are now impassable, and none but the stranger will attempt to cross them. Even without such temporary dangers, the unw^ary traveller in such a country, trying maybe to force a march when unacquainted with the village tracks and local landmarks, will surely come to grief ; and though within an hour or two of some village where loyal, if frugal, hospitality awaits him, will find himself lost, with little means of knowing how to direct his foot- steps. For the village which he would gain lies hidden out of sight in some sheltered nook, or behind a bend in the river, or beyond a rise of ground. Yet even though he reach the village by night, whether as an 1 We noticed this effect especially at Karadinek, August 1907. SOME VILLAGE CUSTOMS 11 armed party or as a benighted wanderer, his welcome is secure, and his life is sacred. No questions will be asked him, nor will any demand the reason of his coming. Warm milk and home-made bread-cakes, and sometimes honey, will be offered him as refreshment ; and after a few simple courtesies the best room will be put at his disposal. In the morning the ' swash-swish ' of the churn, an inflated goatskin, will tell him that the housewife is busied with his breakfast : soon the door is opened and he recognises in his attendant, who lays the round tray before him, none other than his host, the headman of the village. His horse is fed and saddled, and the chief's son is his guide. In the main valley, however, we have not found that which we seek. Pushing on then up one of the sources of the river we reach Kartal, in a green dell begirt with wooded hills. Though off the beaten track this place is only one day's journey by mountain-path from Aintab. Perhaps on this account the people here are freer. Their simplicity of life is the same, but their curiosity is greater and their restraint is less. Here we are soon friends ; and have opportunity to study their manners and their features. Their houses are partly hollowed in the hillside as in many parts of Asia Minor, alike for economy in construction, and for better protection against rain and cold. The roofs are built of timber, and so covered with earth that it is difficult in descending from above to distinguish them from the surface of the ground with which they are continuous. The chief industry of the villagers, in addition to the tending of their fields and flocks, is the making of butter and dairy produce, which is sent to the market at Aintab. They are said to be Turkomans, descendants of wanderers from the East who settled 12 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY here many generations back, and now an element of the Turkish people. But there is something in their faces reminiscent of Hittite portraits, suggested generally in the women, and marked strongly in some of the men, though in others not at all. This glimmer seems to be due to mixture in past times with a pre-existing population ; for in the hills above there are settle- ments of woodmen whom even these villagers regard as a somewhat strange and different people. Here, at last, we come face to face with that remarkable type portrayed so clearly on Egyptian sculptures, and sug- gested also in the Hittite monuments themselves, char- acterised by the strong nose in line with the receding forehead, the round protrusion of the head behind, the heavy lips and beard, and the stolid look. The figure is short and thickset, betokening stamina and strength. Our photograph ^ was obtained at Kuchuk Kizil-Hissar, nearer to Aintab, but it is clear that the home of this type is now the mountainous country, where it has persevered in seclusion and still survives. Our wanderings in this district have not then been fruitless. The traveller may be rewarded also by a picture of wonderful beauty to be seen at sunset from the wooded heights near the sources of the Afrin River and the Kara Su. Pen cannot describe the delicacy and harmony of the colours in the trees, with the effects of light and shade among their leaves and in the shadows of the foreground ; nor could brush compose ' PI. Lxxxiv. (i), p. 320. This is clearly the old Amorite-Hittite type as represented on the Egyptian temple sculptures, temp. Rameses ii., then apparently most prevailing in the Lebanon region. See Petrie, Racial Tyxies, No. 147, and Maspero, The Struggle of the Nations, p. 147 and ifig. ; cf. also W. Max Miiller, Asien unci Europd, pp. 229, 233, and the Book of Joshua, X. 6, and xi. 3. The type is now more widely dispersed, as seen from this example and Pis. xv. (ii), Lxxxvi. below. KAIiTAL : VERANDAH Ol-' A HOUSE Churning, left ; crushing grain with a wooden mallet, right back. KAKTAL : GROUP Of TUKKOMAN WOMEN (Note the cylindrical hat and cover). SINJERLI AND SAKJE-GEUZI 13 the majesty and depth imparted by Nature to the distance of this scene. Ridge beyond ridge, of varied forms and softening colours, leads back to where beneath the reddening glow the bold ranges of the Amanus chain are seen purple, even while the snow- clad peaks of far-distant Taurus in the north still gleam in the last lingering rays of light. From here the western edge of the Qurt Dagh range descends abruptly to a broad and marshy valley, shut in, on the other side, by the Giaour Dagh. The land is flat, and the streams, after descending from the mountains, mostly stagnate in marshes overgrown with reeds and scrub. From the middle tract egress is almost wholly shut off, by ridges and outliers from the hills. Such water as escapes either flows north- ward to join the Pyramus or southward to form the Kara Su. Though now pestilential with malaria and sparsely inhabited, this valley is naturally very fertile ; and numerous mounds which dot the surface are in- dicative of extensive ancient settlement.^ Among these are the sites of Sinjerli and Sakje-Geuzi, which provide us with our most complete architectural monuments of the Hittites on this side of the Taurus. Here there seem to have been a series of petty states or principalities,^ consisting of groups of towns cluster- ing round the palace of the local king, fortified strongly with stone walls and towers. We do not yet know what may have been the precise relations of these elements of the population to one another; but it is clear that in the days of Hittite supremacy they must have been amongst those tribes who shared in the con- 1 A local tradition says that 120,000 men were drawn from this region in the time of Alexander. 2 Von Luschan, Ausgrabungen in Sendschirli, i. ; and Liverpool Annals of ArchcEology, i. p. 99. 14 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY federacy.^ It is also obvious that no people could hope to defend themselves in this valley vs^ho did not hold the passes of the mountain-ranges on either side. The westerly chain of the Giaour Dagh, indeed, was readily defensible. Except for a few local tracks avail- able only in the summer, there are but fe'w passes over its unbroken mass, and these are well defined. This splendid range of mountains, better known as Mount Amanus, forms a main branch of the Taurus system, from which it is divided only by the valley of the Pyramus. It separates Syria from Cilicia on the west, and touching the sea near Alexandretta follows the coast south-westward, until arrested by the broad valley of the Orontes. The average height of the chain is from four to six thousand feet, while some of its peaks reach almost to the snow-line.^ Of the several passes that traverse it, that which leads transversely from Marash into Cilicia presents the easiest gradient, and is much used by caravans, though impassable by carts. The central pass above Bogche, however, is better known, being the direct line of communication between Cilicia and the East. Bogche itself is reached from Osmaniyeh on the eastern borders of the Cilician plain by a path which, while generally following the valley of the Bogche Su, traverses also some outlying ridges. The village is thus found picturesquely situated in an open and fertile spot among the hills. The long ascent thence continues up to one of the main sources of the same stream until the watershed is crossed, whence the descent is steep and rugged to the valley. The track then heads directly by Sakje Geuzi over the Qurt Dagh to Aintab, and so eastward to the crossing of the - Including the kingdoms of Unki, Samalla, and Jaudi : see the map p. 375. 2 cf. Plate lxxiv. PASSES OF THE AMANUS 15 Euphrates. Though direct and not very difficult, this route is not yet made passable by carts, and perhaps for this reason the mail from Adana and the West takes the coast route, on mule pack, round to Alex- andretta,'^ whence rises the main road to the interior. The Beilan Pass, as it is called, above Alexandretta, is by far the easiest, and the steep gradient on either side is so nicely engineered that it is hardly realised in passing where the watershed is crossed. Leading down directly to the fair seaport on the Mediterranean, this route for centuries has been a main channel of commerce between Europe and Asia; and until the railway con- necting Aleppo with Beyrout diverted a large part of the traffic, caravans consisting of hundreds of laden camels in long procession could be seen daily, bringing out the merchandise of the East, and taking back the manufactured products of the West. The mountain-chain now turns south-west, and terminates abruptly in the rocky point called in Arabic Ras El Khanzir, ' The Pig's Head,' while its southern slopes descend steeply to the estuary of the Orontes. Beyond, the mountainous character of the coast is continued south in the Jebel Ansaria (or Bargylus Mountains), which hold on until broken by the broad rift which divides them from the Lebanon. Hugging the eastern side of this range the Orontes River comes northward, and turning sharply where the mountains break, it flows past Antioch south-westward to the sea. At the bend it is joined by the Afrin River 1 The coast route to Alexandretta was In course of reconstruction in 1907. Formerly the rocky promontory known as Pylce Syrice et Cilicice presented a formidable obstacle, over which carts could pass only with great difficulty; while for travellers on horseback the easiest passage was by wading in the sea at the foot of the cliffs. The Bogche route is that contemplated for the new section of the railway heading for Baghdad. 16 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY and the Kara Su in a broad and swampy hollow almost shut in by the mountain-ranges and the eastern plains. The sources of the Orontes are found in the northern region of the Anti-Lebanon, and here the southern limit of the Hittite monuments is reached.^ In this vicinity was Kadesh, the frontier fortress of the Hittites that figures so prominently in the battle-scenes of Egypt. Here, too, is Horns, now a remarkable Arab city, at the junction of the main routes from Damascus to Aleppo, and from Palmyra to Tripolis on the sea. Further north is Restan, strongly placed at a bend of the river on a steep and naturally defended knoll. Further again is Hamath, where the main road and the river separate, the latter turning westward to seek its green bed below the mountains, and the former holding on directly towards Aleppo across the plains. Here, at Hamath, were found the hieroglyphic inscrip- tions which first gave rise to systematic Hittite studies. Here, too, types of people are found strongly reminiscent of the past, like living models of the ancient sculptures.^ This district, in the head-waters of the Orontes, was not only the Hittite frontier, but was such as the Hittites in the period of their settlement seem to have delighted in. Here their walled towns and citadels sprang up, in the midst of a land well watered and reasonably fertile, under the shadow of mountains ' A silvered copper seal, cylindrical in shape, is recorded as from Haifa [C.I.H. 1900, PI. XLi. 2), but no argument can be based thereon. Other small objects from this region are a seal and archaic bronze figure from Latakia (C.I.S. loc. cit. No. 6, and Peiser, Die Bronze-flgur von Schernen, aus Sitzungsber. der Altertumsges. Pi-ussia, Heft 22, p. 428), and a similar archaic bronze from Homs, said to have been found in the Orontes (Peiser, op. cit.). 2 See Plate lxxxiv. (ii), reproduced from a sketch by Mr. Horst Schliep- hack. The subject vras an Arab-speaking carriage driver, resident in Hamath, who said that his birthplace vras TJrf a. Of. the types Pis. lxxv., pxxvii, PLATE VII THE PLATEAU OF ASIA MINOR 17 which cut them off from the sea and from their enemy of the South ; while behind the road was open to call up in necessity the assistance of the northern branches of their people. From the Taurus we descended firstly to the north of Syria, because in the development of Hittite studies this region first attracted attention through the references to it in Egyptian and Assyrian history. But modern research has added to our knowledge of the Hittite lands a wider and different territory on the other side. There the descent to the interior of Asia Minor from the mountains is not so marked, for even around the foot of snow-capped Argaeus, the most advanced pinnacle of the system, the plateau is still four thousand feet above the sea. The level falls gradually towards the west, but rarely much below three thousand feet; while on the other hand the numerous minor ranges that break the surface of the interior attain a considerably greater height. This tableland is almost enclosed by ridges of mountains: on the north and south these descend directly to the coast ; on the west they are more broken and less bold, but they constitute none the less a great obstacle between the plateau and the green valleys of the ^gean coast.^ On the east, as we have already seen, are the Anti- Taurus ranges, backed by the Armenian hills beyond. The upland area thus enclosed is from two to three hundred miles across according to the direction taken, for its form is irregular. Only to the south is the boundary sharply defined, where the range of Taurus forms a mighty wall, which in the middle 1 Bamsay, Journ. Boy. Asiatic Soc, xv. p. 100. B 18 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY turns almost a right angle in direction, running north- eastward and north-west. The whole plateau may be regarded as irregularly five-sided. The interior varies greatly in its features, the chief agent being the peculiarities of its river systems. Shut in as it is, many rivers fail to find an outlet to the sea : this is especially the case in the plain which lies at the foot of the western ranges of the Taurus, where the waters stagnate, forming salt lakes or marshes. This plain is green around Konia, but its extensions to the north and east are practically desert, being parched and barren in the summer months. On its north-east, in the centre of the peninsula, its boundary is the largest salt lake of the interior, which is fed likewise by several minor inland streams. There are some rivers, however, which find an outlet even through the Taurus ranges, but such are more common towards the west and north-west. The districts which these water are consequently among the most attractive of Asia Minor, with areas of natural woodland and green pastures, as well as fertile soil for cultivation. But the greatest river and most important landmark of the interior is the Halys, which describes a broad circuit through the heart of the plateau, enclosing towards the north-east a tract about a hundred and fifty miles across which mostly lies in the basin of the river, well watered by its many tributaries. This region is one of the most important in our subject. Though not extensively cultivated, for the stable population even here is relatively small, it is none the less highly fertile. Its hills and slopes are mostly green with pastures, and in the flat valleys are long reaches suit- able for the plough. Another favoured district lies southward from the Halys, passing by Mount Argaeus, PLATE VIII WOODLAND ON THE SOUTH SLOPES OF TAURUS (Seci't- 19. 47-) WOODLAND AND CLIMATE 19 skirting the eastern edges of the plain, and watered by streamlets from the Anti-Taurus. Here in the vicinity of Tyana are wide acres of corn-land, gardens are plentiful, and even trees abound. Woodland is rare in the interior, but highland trees grow in profusion on the mountain-sides. The middle heights of the Taurus are covered with virgin forest, especially on the southern aspect, where every variety of European tree is found ; and the pine-woods of Phrygia in the west have been a feature of the country throughout its history.^ The slopes overlooking the Black Sea, however, catch the chief share of the northern rains, and here consequently forest-land is plentiful,^ and nearly continuous along the coast. The interior is almost rainless in the summer-time,^ and relies chiefly for its water supply on the winter storms, and later melting of the mountain snows. Owing to its high elevation above the sea the cold season is severe and persistent : the bleak winds from southern Kussia sweep across its plains and open spaces, driving the population of the exposed areas for shelter into houses either sunk below the surface of the ground or hollowed in the banks of streams. The compensation for this inclement season is ample in the summer weather, when the v\rarm sun shining down from blue skies is tempered by refreshing breezes which the altitude produces — features of climate that distinguish this tableland from the southern coasts, and from the plains of Syria. Such in brief are the striking features of this portion ' Cf. Livy, Bk. xYxviii. 18, etc., for the contrast between Phrygia and the plains. 2 This feature also is historic. Cf. Strabo xii. viii. 8. ' For the general geographical conditions affecting life on the plateau, cf. Hogarth, The Nearer East (London, 1902), pp. 246 if. 20 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY of the Hittites' land. On these breezy highlands the ancient people found all the elements of contentment : hunter, woodman, shepherd, and peasant found each his home, in which Nature provided him with all the ordinary requirements of his life. Nor was the develop- ment of his civilisation to be arrested by his settle- ment : the resources of his country were inexhaustible ; mines of useful and precious minerals are not uncom- mon ; ^ and the means of providing other commodities was at hand, for the walls of the plateau were not without openings to foster some relations with the coast and so with other lands. But, on the whole, the uplands which he had occupied were economically self-contained ; and for the stimulus to his civilisation we look naturally to the Bast, and especially to the old-established culture on the Euphrates, the com- munications with which, by the nature of his settle- ment, were open and in his power.^ In the foregoing general view of Central Asia Minor we have seen that the interior tableland may be divided conveniently for description into five main regions, not for the most part separated from one another by any definite boundary, but each char- acterised by some special feature. These are, in the south, the plains that lie northward and eastward from Iconium ; in the west, the pine-clad hills and verdant pastures of Phrygia, where several great rivers rise that descend in different directions ; in the north, the upland but not highland country around ' For mineral and other resources consult inter alia, Hamilton, Researches in Asia Minor (London, 1842), vol. i. chs. xvi., xx., xx'iii. • likewise Van Lennep, Travels in . . . Asia Minor ("London, 1870). ^ It is of interest in this connection to notice that one of the earliest historical references to the Hittites occurs in the Babylonian chronicles (King, Chronicles of the Early Babylonian Kings, London, 1907 pp 72 and 148). LANDMARKS OF THE INTERIOR 21 Angora, in which also is the divide between some tributaries of the Sangarius and of the Halys ; in the north-east, the broad tract enclosed by the convex curve of the Halys River, to which we shall presently return ; and, in the south-east, the tract of which Tyana is the centre, with which we shall include the eastern portion of the plain of Konia and the range of Taurus that bounds it on the south. Of these regions, the two latter may be regarded as an eastern or inner group as opposed to the three former lying to their west, from which they are physically separated, more clearly, at any rate, than the components of either group from one another, by the broad expanse of desert, the great central lake, and especially by the middle course of the Halys. This distinction between eastern and western will be found to have a real significance as our story develops : it is clear from the outset, however, that the former group would first receive and longest retain contact with Eastern civilisa- tion, whether by the natural approaches over the watershed between the Euphrates and the Halys, or by the several crossings of the Anti-Taurus which converge upon Caesarea, or by what is now the chief channel of communication through the Taurus Moun- tains by way of Cilicia. This distinction will be found further emphasised by the comparative plenty of Hittite monuments on the one side, and their paucity in the west. On the southern plains, indeed, skirting the main range of Taurus, westward progress was less restrained ; ^ but that the Halys in the north presented a real barrier ^ is borne out by the fact that when the ' Witness the group of monuments in the Kara Dagh, p. 90. 2 A barrier, that is, to general migration in ancient times. As a political boundary its importance is clear from the fact that it divided the Median and Lydian empires (Herodotus, i. 72). 22 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY Lydian Croesus crossed the Halys in the sixth century B.C. he found a strange and presumably non-Aryan people surviving upon the eastern side, who were indeed, according to Herodotus,^ called Syrians by the Greeks, and by that historian spoken of as Syro- Cappadocians. With our two eastern divisions we must include the plain and district westward of Caesarea, a tract which on the north lies partly in the basin of the Halys, and on the south is practically continuous with the plains of Tyana, from which it is separated only by a low ridge of hills. Towards the west are the remarkable troglodyte villages,^ where, probably from remote antiquity, the inhabitants have hewn out their dwell- ings in the soft surface rock and conical mounds which are the peculiar feature of the locality. There is little evidence as yet, however, to make this region of importance in our subject, and it is only recently that Csesarea has yielded trace of Hittite handiwork.^ None the less the continuation of exploration will certainly bring to light new monuments, for the district lies in the heart of the Hittite country; and Old Caesarea (Mazaca) was the residence of Cappadocian kings. The position of Csesarea is geographically of great importance, and from Roman times at any rate has marked the focus of the trade and traffic, and conse- quently of the road-systems, of the interior. The soil locally is of great fertility, owing to its volcanic nature. Vines and fruit-trees grow and thrive luxuriantly. The middle heights of slumbering ^ Loc. cit., Strabo (xii. iii. 9) speaks of 'the " Leuco-Syrians" whom we call Cappadocians.' See also p. 92; and Ramsay, Historical Geo- graphy, pp. 32, 33. ^ Hamilton, Researches in Asia Minor, vol. ii. ch. xliii. ' Liverpool Annals of Archmology, i. (1908), p. 6, Pis. viii., ix. PLATE IX POSITION OF C^SAREA 23 Argseus are covered thickly with pine-woods. The snow-capped peak of this mountain towers in the heavens, the conspicuous feature of the horizon and the landmark for two days' journey on every side. Its form is conical : to the west and south, where it rises directly from the plain, its base is washed by great lakes and marshes of variable extent. Towards the east it is connected up by broken ridges with the Anti-Taurus system. On its northern slope is Asarjik, overlooking Ceesarea, which lies at the foot of the mountain on that side. The site of the ancient city (Mazaca) is probably that marked by the ruins of Graeco-Roman times, to be found in the Vineyards on a low spur of the mountain about a mile south of the modern town.^ Here is a spot that will one day reward excavation by a volume of unsuspected history. In the modern town, apart from its bazaars and industries and its splendid mediaeval remains,^ one of the most interesting sights is the ever-changing stream of human faces to be seen in its streets, for its traffic and position bring to it daily caravans from every side. In its resident population there are considerable Greek and Armenian elements ; but there may be noticed as specially of interest to our subject the Jewish families,' in which the dominant features of face and stature recall again the type previously noticed at Kartal in Northern Syria. Main roads radiate from Caesarea in all directions : towards the north-east to Sivas by the valley of the Halys ; to the north by Yuzgat, crossing the river, which is five hours distant from Caesarea, by a remarkable bridge of many spans 1 It is noteworthy that Strabo (xii. ii. 7), describes Mazaca (then the capital of the Cilician province) as being in a ruinous state without walls, while its land remained unfertile and uncultivated. 2 See PI. IX. ^ See PI. t-xxxvi. 24 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY (hence called Chok-Geuz Keupru) ; to the north-west by way of a lower bridge (called in contrast Bir-Geuz, or One-span Bridge), heading thence directly for Angora by the bridge at Cheshme Keupru ; to the west across the plains to Konia by Sultan Han, skirting the southern border of the salt lake (Tuz Geul) ; to the south by Injesu and Tyana, and so to the Cilician Gates, or by a western branch to Eregli. An alterna- tive route from Csesarea to the Cilician Gates, shorter but impassable by carts, leads through defiles of wild beauty through the outlying ridges of the Anti-Taurus. South-east there are several well-established mountain tracks, like those to Fraktin and Ekrek, but there is one of special interest and antiquity, to which we have already alluded, heading directly for Marash by way of the high pass of Kuru - Bel,' and passing hence by Komana. Of the other routes enumerated there is one which was already of importance on general grounds before a recent discovery gave to it a special historical interest. This is the main road north and south, passing through Yuzgat, which in antiquity connected Boghaz- Keui with the east by way of Tyana and the Cilician Gates. This is clearly a southerly stage of the Eoyal Road of the Persian period, but whether it is the main route is not determinable from the description of Herodotus.^ It has, however, now been traced for several miles be- tween Injesu and a ford of the river'near Bogche,^ by the ruts scored deeply and over a broad track on the surface rock, exactly like the section previously traced through Phrygia by Sir William Ramsay." It is significant that ' Professor Ramsay {Historical Geography, p. 35) already argued the necessary antiquity of such a route before the Hittite monument on the mountain pass was brought to light. 2 See below, pp. 45, 366, note 2 ; and cf. Macau's Herodotus, App. xiii §§ 7, 8, 9. ■'' Liv. Annals of Arch., i. (1908), p. 11. i Cf. PI. xxiv (i). ROADS OF THE INTERIOR 25 this route did not touch Csesarea, to reach which a considerable detour must be made around the foot of Argseus, so much so that even now an optional route is in use from Injesu to Chok-Geuz Keupru. The old route was, if anything, even more direct, for from Injesu, near which it is traceable, it headed for the river in due line for Boghaz-Keui. The Hittite inscription overlooking the river at Bogche, the continuous signs of the road approaching Injesu from this direction, the Phrygian inscription found on the site of Tyana,^ and the Hittite inscriptions from the same vicinity,^ are evidences of the antiquity of this road analogous in every way to those which have been accepted as identifying it in the Phrygian country, from Bey-Keui to Doghanlu. Incidentally we find light in this dis- covery on the historical antiquity of the Cilician Gates as the main channel of communication with the east. Later in these pages ^ we shall find reason to believe that the western part of the great Royal Road, which led the Persian posts in crossing Asia Minor to make the wide detour by way of Pteria (even though the city was in ruins),* had been made and established by the Hittites in the thirteenth century B.C., when the stone ■walls of their capital crowned the hilltops of Boghaz-Keui. Possibly the earliest communication with the East was by way of the valley of the Tochma Su,^ or by Marash; but the development of this southern branch of the main chariot-way cannot well be later than the tenth century B.C., when the second kingdom of the Hittites grew prominent with Tyana (or maybe Csesarea) as its centre. ' See below, PI. xxv. (iii) ; and Liverpool Annals of Arch., i. pp. 10, 13. 2 At Andaval, C./.-ff. (1900), PI. xxxi. ; and at Bor, ibid. (1906), Pi. XXXIII. See below, p. 91. 3 See p. 233. * See pp. 33, 38. ^ See p. 143. 26 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY In passing now to a closer examination of the geography of those portions of the tableland with which we shall be most concerned in later chapters, we cannot begin more appropriately than by a description of the Halys River itself, as one of the definite land- marks of the interior, and as including in its circuit some of the most instructive Hittite works. This splendid river, known in the Turkish language as the Kizil Irmak, has a total length of five hundred miles, without counting its minor windings. Its sources must be sought in the map beyond Sivas, far up the northern slope of the lower Armenian hills, ^ where at one point but a few miles divide it from several tributaries of the Euphrates. For nearly two hundred miles it holds on in a south-westerly direction through hilly country, fed by numerous short streams on either hand, which scour for themselves deep channels in their swift descent. Its waters are deeply stained red-brown in colour by the rich sediment which it carries. Its banks are rugged, and like most main rivers of western Asia it flows deep below the general level of the basin which it drains. The bridge opposite Csesarea (Chok-Geuz) is only gained by a steep climb on either side. Between this and the other bridge some fifteen miles lower down, the river flows characteristically through a steep-sided valley, with only narrow strips of verdure along its banks. These strips are precious, and, though liable to be washed out by flood,^ are cultivated with great care by individual peasants, who are rewarded with fruits and even flowers, as well as the vegetables which are their chief concern.^ Sometimes these strips, which 1 See PI. II. (ii). 2 cf. Strabo, xii. xi. 8. ' We noticed in passing an aged pair working together in their small garden of vegetables. It was- summer-time, and their sleeping-place was a bower of branches and twigs covered entirely with pink roses. PLATE XI THE COURSE OF THE HALYS 27 are never more than a few feet in width, give way entirely where the rocks protruding from the bank present an obstacle around which the deep waters swirl. Ever and again, however, the steep banks recede, leaving a green oasis wherein a village lies among its crops. Yamoola is such a place, where the right bank lies back as the lower bridge is approached. But for the most part the edges of the plateau in which the river's bed is sunk are so rugged and so strewn with stone that they remain uncultivated. Here and there villages are found even in the river's banks ; in some cases the entire houses are excavated therein, so that their windows look out on the water through walls of solid stone, as at Chok-Geuz Keupru ; in other cases the excavation is more partial, leaving most of the frontage and part of the roof to be built — the one with mud, the other with timber and mud, as may be seen by following the left bank below the lower bridge. The traveller will also be rewarded here in summer- time with wildflowers in varieties of colour surpassing imagination, possible only in a highly fertile and neglected soil. Patches of pink, blue, orange, white and yellow meet the eye in quick succession. Roses grow in profusion, while here and there are whole fields of purple iris, shining and changing hue as they bend in the sunlight to the winds that play upon them. The volume of the river has now become so great that fords are few and generally difficult. That near Bogche ^ is no longer passable in the winter and spring- time. The village itself lies back from the river- brink about fifteen miles below the Bir-Geuz bridge. Kara- 1 To be distinguished from the Bogche, which gives its name to the pass over the Giaour Dagh (p. 14). 28 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY burna lies near the opposite bank, another day's journey lower down. Hereabouts the hilly ground which lies eastward of the great lake Tuz Geul arrests the southerly progress of the river, which, thrown back, turns in a great sweep north-west- wards for nearly a hundred miles, then northwards to latitude of Angora, so dividing the heart of the peninsula. The chief bridge in the latter portion of its course is now at Cheshme Keupru, where amongst other main communications the road from Csesarea to Angora recrosses the river. Hereabouts it would seem there was a bridge and fort or guardhouse in Persian times,^ where the royal road from the Phrygian country and the west passed over towards Boghaz- Keui. Above this bridge the immediate banks are green and on the left side open ; but below the ■waters pass at once into a rocky defile, changes which are typical of the varying nature of the river's bed. Opposite Angora (which is distant about thirty miles at the nearest point) Nature opposes further obstacles to the northerly progress of the river in the broken ranges of the northern coast, so that it now turns completely upon its original direction, and henceforth flows north-easterly with one main detour. As it winds around the foot of the Kush Dagh it descends from the plateau, and in a widening valley with fertile banks finds its way into the Black Sea, northwards from Samsun, at the point of a promontory which it has itself deposited. The great circuit of the Halys encloses a tract of country a hundred and fifty miles across, watered chiefly by tributaries of the same river. Of these the ' Herodotus, i. 75, and v. 52 ; Ramsay, Historical Geography, p. 29 ; but see below, p. 38, note 1. PLATE XII THE BASIN OF THE HALYS 29 Delije Irmak is chief, and it is perhaps more directly concerned with the fertility of the country than its parent river. It rises in the watershed of the Ak Dagh Mountains, under the southern slopes of which the Halys itself flows down the long reach between Sivas and the bridges near Caesarea. Thence in its course it makes a similar circuit within that of the Halys, which it only joins in the middle of the north-westerly reach. This river is more gentle in its flow, and its banks are mostly flat alluvial tracts of great fertility ; indeed, the land would support a population many times more numerous than its settled inhabitants. Long green pastures and arable spots remain unneeded and neglected. It is small wonder that the wandering Turkoman and other nomad peoples have found out this favoured region so suitable to their habits and the feeding of their flocks. Their tents in little groups are found quite frequently in places off the beaten tracks ; indeed their encampments remaining through several years sometimes mark the foundation of villages and settled life. The tent of the nomad is generally made of lengths of rough hand-made cloth, woven from home- spun goats' wool. These are sewn together to give a considerable expanse of cover, which is spread over vertical poles and brought down to earth on the wind- ward side. In such a tent the owner and his family share a common shelter with their flocks and any other animals they may possess.^ In some cases the develop- ment of the house from tent may be watched growing proportionately with the duration of their stay. For the ashes and rubbish are regularly thrown out around ' Cf. Pis. XII., XIII. (ii). We are alluding to the poorer classes. There is a considerable degree of refinement and simple luxury among the more prosperous Turkomans. See, for example, Davis, Life in Asiatic Turkey, pp. 223-4. 30 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY the back of the tent for mere convenience. This refuse gradually accumulates, and may be increased by earth cleared gradually from within, and by stones collected from the land in use around, so that in a year or two a wall or mound three or four feet high already encloses the tent on three sides. The worn-out cloth cover is now replaced by a roof of rafters and twigs covered with earth, and perhaps without realising it the nomad has settled and built a house. The solution is not always so simple or purely economical. In some cases walls of reed are built, over which the cover will be stretched as before and held down all around with pegs. In due course, with a prolonged stay, the worn- out cloth will be replaced by thatch, and rough stone walls supplant the decaying reeds ; and so, as he loses the habit of wandering, the nomad loses also the neces- saries of his journeys. The Delije Irmak is replenished in its turn by numerous smaller streams ; on one of these is Yuzgat, Tvhich had its origin in a settlement of Turkomans, and has now grown to be one of the most important towns of the district. It is pleasantly situated in the cup-like hollow of a green hillside, and with its well- ordered streets, its stone-built bazaars and public buildings, has an appearance of considerable attrac- tion. Here horses are to be procured of useful kind and at reasonable prices, and a great horse fair is held annually in the summer months. The masoned stone used in its construction was largely brought from the ruins of ancient Tavium, which is found at Nefez-Keui, a short journey to the west. The latter is one of the most typical and instructive villages of the interior. It is placed near the sources of another tributary of the same river, well up the southern slopes of a considerable secondary watershed. In typical fashion PLATE XIIL CHESME KEUPKU: INTERIOR OF THE HAN (Seeji. 28.) NEAR SEKKELl : YUKUK ENCAMPMENT i^See p. 29.) VILLAGE ON A HISTORIC SITE 31 the backs of the houses are partly excavated in the hill- side, so that the mud-covered roofs are continuous with the ground behind, while the fronts of the houses and the village streets are banked up in terraces. Nearly all the houses have some form of verandah sheltering their entrances ; and numerous Greek in- scriptions may be found built into the walls of many buildings. The ancient acropolis may be recognised by a few sculptured fragments in a steep knoll some minutes westward, and on the way the modern cemetery is passed in which also several stones bearing Greek inscriptions or sculptures have been re-used and in some cases re-inscribed. The main industry of the villagers here, as everywhere in Asia Minor, is naturally agriculture. The fields in the dales below, though somewhat marshy in places, are very green with luxurious pastures and some quantity of trees ; while nearer the village gardens of vegetables are plentiful with orchards of fruit-trees and a considerable ex- panse of vineyards. Other national industries are carried on in the houses unnoticed, such as the hand- weaving of small carpets,^ done chiefly by the women. The water supply of the village is found in several springs, which have been built up and prepared for the watering of cattle and flocks, as well as for domestic purposes. The scene of women washing their garments or their children at the trough, or drawing water at the source is here, as throughout the East, one of the most characteristic of daily life. The prevailing type of face among the inhabitants of this place is Turkoman, but a certain clean-cut Greek or proto-Greek type of face may be found suggested in some few of the men, recalling distantly a special type of Hittite warriors as portrayed in Egyptian ' PI. XVII. 32 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY sculpture. Some of the women are noticeably beautiful.^ Northwards from Nefez-Keui the route continues to rise to the crest of this secondary watershed, which reaches a height of over seven thousand feet. From the eastern edge several streams fall away to join the Chekerek. As soon as the northern slopes are reached, a remarkable change of landscape presents itself ; bare patches are replaced by continuous pastures, and the stream which descends towards Boghaz-Keui passes through meadows and wooded glades of peculiar beauty. As the river ^ gathers strength it works its way into a deep continuous vale of increasing splendour, the slopes of which are thickly covered with trees and shrubbery of considerable variety, except where here and there a bare patch of rock or red-brown soil adds to the contrast of colours. At the mouth of this valley, on the right at the foot of the hill, the little village of Boghaz-Keui is disclosed, with its white minaret and houses and large konak, on a low outcrop of rock, made pleasant by a few trees and splashing streams. The ridge is left behind, and the landscape immediately opens out into wide pastures bounded by dark green uplands, and broken freely by white limestone rocks. The name of this place, the 'Village of the Gorge,' has arisen possibly on account of its general situation, or more probably in reference to the deep ravine of another river ^ which bounds the eastern edge of the historic hill, on which are the palaces and acropolis of ancient Pteria, that marks the one- time capital and centre of the land. It is difficult for us now to realise, with the changed political and ' Cf. Pis. XIV., XVIII. 2 The Yazir Daresi. ' The Beuyuk Kayauin Daresi. See PI. lis. PLATE XIV NEFEZ-KEUI ; TWO WOMEN URAWING AT THE SPKING TYANA; TURKISH WOMEN AND CHILD PEOPLES OF ASIA MINOR 33 economic conditions, what special feature there was peculiar to this site, unless that were its climate and defensible position, that should have marked it out for such a destiny. Its ancient city is now a deserted ruin, without meaning to modern life. Its roadways have no longer any significance, and even in the faces of its people there can be seen no reflection of its former population. It would seem that the Lydian conqueror of the sixth century B.C. had thoroughly and effec- tively destroyed it.^ Another Hittite site, marked by a low mound now covered by the village of Eyuk, lies some twenty miles farther to the north. The route thither winds around somewhat barren uplands, among which a few arable spots have been chosen as the sites of villages. In some of these, particularly in the remoter places upon the hills, an ancient type survives in striking and rugged contrast to the familiar though varying Turkish features.^ Our photograph, taken at Kulakly (a hamlet on the way from Boghaz-Keui to Eyuk), dis- closes the same prominent facial details and sturdy figures as we have previously seen in the wood- ' Herodotus, i. 76, says that Croesus enslaved the inhabitants, and took also the adjacent places, expelling the population. ^ We do not attempt to distinguish any but the types that recall the various Hittite representations in contemporary sculptures, particularly those which decorate the walls of Egyptian temples. Such resemblance may be accidental, but it is of interest. In the deeper inquiry, there is a wonderful field of material for a trained ethnographist. Probably no ' nation ' on earth to-day is composed of so many and varying elements as is that of the Turks. A walk through any market town, where the people are brought together, or even a glance out of the carriage window at the people on the platform of a busy railway station, will bring forth visions of Tartars and Mongols, Greeks and Jews, even occasionally Hindoos and Arabs, as well as the dominant Turkoman, Circassian and Armenian types, all of which under Nature's gentle and wonderful influence seem to blend quite fittingly together. There is nothing, moreover, that astonishes the reason ; for this country was not only the battlefield of nations, but the natural pathway between two continents. Cf. Pis. xv., lxxxv.-lxxxvii. 34 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY lands above Kartal in the north of Syria. It is a type preserved to some extent in the Jewish families found in some of the towns of Asia Minor, as we have seen to be the case at Caesarea.^ It is strikingly reminiscent of the Amorite element among the Hittite allies on the Egyptian battle scenes. The main roadways of this region, as indeed through- out the tableland in general, are curiously independent of the river systems. Local tracks follow naturally the valleys of streams so far as these serve for the required direction, but in general the high roads are independently devised. Of these the two which cross at Yuzgat are the chief : the one leads from Csesarea northwards either to Chorum, the administrative head- quarters of this district,^ or to Amasia somewhat east- ward, and so on to Samsun on the coast of the Black Sea ; while the other connects Sivas with Angora and the west. The latter route as it approaches the Halys passes by Denek Maden, where are considerable mines of lead and silver, the ore of which contains also anti- mony and gold. The descent to the Halys bed lies through a well - timbered country, and the river is crossed by this route at Cheshme Keupru. There are also other routes of considerable importance, one of which has been mentioned as connecting Csesarea with Angora directly, crossing the Halys twice ; while another from Angora eastward, much used in summer- time, passes over the river considerably north of Cheshme Keupru, heading for Sungurlu, whence the ' Cf. Pla. Lxxxiv., Lsxxvi. (i). On the subject of surviving types, cf. Wilson (Sir Charles) in the Quart. Statement Pal. Expl. Fd., Jan. 1884. 2 And thence in ancient times to Sinope. Ramsay, Hist. Geog., p. 28 ; see also Curtius, Griech. Gesch., ed. 5, i. 408, and Herodotus, i. 76, in reference to w^hich cf. Perrotand Chipiez, History of Art in Sardinia . . . Syria and Asia Minor (Engl. ed. 1890), ii. p, 103. PLATE XV YUZGAT • DERVISH AND VAGABONDS KULAKLY KEUI : TYPES OF INHABITANTS NORTHERN ROADS AND RIVERS 35 way is open to Chorum by way of Eyuk, or to Yuzgat, passing in this case by Boghaz-Keui. There are some few rivers of this region which do not enter the basin of the Halys. The chief of these is the Chekerek, which rises likewise in the Ak Dagh Mountains, and pursues a circuitous course north- wards, in avoiding the slopes of minor ranges, until it joins the river Iris at Amasia. The last-named river, called in Turkish the Yeshil Irmak, with its main branch the Lycus, belongs entirely to the coastal system, and so does not enter into our account of the interior plateau. Another stream just eastward of the Iris is the Thermodon, made famous in Greek literature ^ by its association w^ith the Amazons. This is one of a series of similar rivers which flow almost directly northwards to the Black Sea from the lower Armenian hills. There are other short rivers of like kind westward of the Halys, some of which help to feed that river, while others flow directly to the sea. These do not need to be mentioned by their names, as they all fall away from the northern slopes of the broken and irregular chain of mountains that forms the northern boundary to the tableland. The most westerly main river flowing to the Black Sea is the Sangarius or Sakaria, which rises in the interior, and avoids the northern ranges by a long westerly detour. Numerous early tributaries of this great river rise indeed in the slopes of those northern mountains, while others fall from the western side of the divide, which on the east overlooks the Halys. These meander southward and westward, seeking for an opening through the upland region of which Angora is the economic centre. The country which they water ' E.g. Herodotus, Ix. 27 i and Strabo, XI. ch. v. i. 36 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY resembles in general characteristics many portions in the basin of the Halys ; and though large tracts equally remain barren and neglected through lack of population, it is on the whole better cultivated, and hence more productive. Ajigora itself is strikingly placed upon a hill, crow^ned by an old fortress which overlooks a ravine with precipitous sides.^ Here are extensive gardens and cultivation in sheltered spots, and in the immediate neighbourhood are numerous orchards and vineyards. The place is famous for its fruits, especially pears and apples, and for its honey. The Angora goat is historic, and there is still a con- siderable trade in the mohair which this animal pro- duces, and to some extent in special woven fabrics. It is the administrative headquarters of a large province, the seat, that is to say, of a Wali ; and is an important trade centre for the interior. Several main roads con- verge upon it, notably the high road connecting Con- stantinople with the East, by way of Yuzgat and Sivas, which crosses the Halys at Cheshme Keupru. A route no longer of first importance, but dating probably from Phrygian times ^ at least, connects Angora with Giaour- Kalesi, some thirty miles south-west, and another place in this vicinity with which we are concerned is Yarre, placed just above a bridge across the Sangarius called Karanje Keupru. In the time of Herodotus the country around Angora was obviously regarded as a part of Phrygia, the eastern boundary of which was the Halys, dividing it from Gappadocia,' yet we have preferred to look upon this as a northern region apart, and to assign 1 See PI. L. 2 B&ms&j, Historical Geography, p. 31, and Jour. Roy. As. Soc, xv. pp. 100-112 ; also Crowfoot, Jour. Hell. Stud., xix., i. p. 50. 3 Herodotus, i. 72. But cf. also Homer, Iliad, iii. 187, and xvi. 719. PLATE XVI THE UPLANDS OF PHRYGIA 37 to the Phrygian country its later and more familiar boundaries. As such Phrygia forms the geographical centre of the western portion of the peninsula. Here is the main watershed, in which are, found the head- waters of three river systems. On the one side are the sources of the Hermus and the Mseander flowing down to the -^gean in the west ; on another rises the Cayster (the Akkar-tchai), and several smaller rivers which follow a southerly or south-easterly course, emptying into inland lakes ; while from the northern slopes, as we have previously noticed, other waters feed the San- garius, and are rolled with the flood of that river into the Black Sea eastward from the Bosphorus. These uplands are among the most attractive parts of Asia Minor; the bracing air is filled with the delicious scent of pine-woods, the verdant pastures are well watered by numerous clear streams, and the meadows ripen under a glowing sun, the rays of which are tempered by the altitude. Here, too, are numerous monu- ments of the Phrygian kingdom ; while north-east from these, at Doghanlu Daresi, on one of many minor tributaries of the Sangarius, and south-west at Bey- Keui, at one of the sources of the same river, near the summit of the watershed, there have been found traces of Hittite handiwork. Through the heart of this region, too, there passed the royal road of Persian times,^ visible as a series of parallel scars in the sur- face rock. This was the main highway linking West with East, and that it developed largely during Hittite times also is seen by the disposition of Hittite monu- ments along its track. Near the coast, it passed near where the sculptures of Sipylus and Kara-Bel looked down on the approaches to Smyrna and to Ephesus. ' Ramsay, Historical Geography, pp. 29, 30. See PI. xxiv. (i). 38 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY From Sardis its precise route eastward is not deter- mined, but it must have entered the Phrygian country near Bey-Keui, whence it is traceable past Bakshish and the monument of the Phrygian Midas, near which is also the Hittite sculpture at Doghanlu Daresi. Still leading north-westward past Giaour-Kalesi, it would seem to have crossed the Sangarius near to Yarre, and the Halys either at or just northwards from Cheshme Keupru,^ heading in all this otherwise unexplained detour for Boghaz-Keui, the chief centre of the Hittites in the north. This road had already lost its main objec- tive even in Persian times, for Pteria seems never to have recovered from its overthrow by Croesus, but it continued to be used, probably because it was ready made; and its traces remain, like the isolated monu- ments of the Hittites in the west, striking witnesses to a vast system of government and economic organisa- tion unlike anything in later times. For our immedi- ate purpose it is sufficient to notice that all the clearly Hittite monuments westward of the Halys are found along this single line of road, a fact which is as signifi- cant as it is remarkable. We do not include in the foregoing considerations the region of which Iconium (Konia) is the centre, which fills the southern corner of the tableland. Several main roads radiate naturally from this place, which is the chief town of the province ; there are, however, only two or three with which we are even in- directly concerned. Of these one leads north-westward, ' Herodotus, i. 75, quotes a general doubt (in which, however, he does not share) that the Halys was not yet bridged in the time of Croesus. There are, however, suitable fords northward from Cheshme Keupru still freely used for the summer routes leading from Angora across the river eastward ; and that the bridge was in use in Persian times seems to be clear {ibid., v. 52). PLATE XVII NEFEZ-KEUl ; CARPET-WEAVING (,S-«/. 31.) THE PLAINS OF ICONIUM 39 passing Ilgin at a distance of about fifty miles, and so into Phrygia, which it approaches up the valley of the inland Cayster. The second is that which leads eastward across the plains by Sultan Han and Akserai for Caesarea; and a third, bending southward to avoid the desert plains, communicates by Eregli with the Cilician Gates and with Tyana (Kilisse Hissar). In ancient times there must have been a more direct road connecting Iconium with Tyana, passing by Ardistama, the site of which is still marked in what is now desert by the name of Arissama, with the neighbouring mounds of Emir-Ghazi.' Around and northward from Iconium there are ex- tensive grass plains, the natural grazing ground of horses which are sent in great droves annually to the fairs and markets of the country, even as far as Bagh- dad. The breeds are not remarkable for quality, and cannot compare with those rare and beautiful animals reared in the plains that border the middle course of the Euphrates ; but they are for the most part a hardy species standing little higher than a European pony, useful for transport, and trained for the saddle to the fast walking pace in which long journeys are always made.^ The rivers of this region are short and local, ending for the most part upon the plains in salt lakes and marshes, which, after the snows have ceased to melt, become almost dry, leaving the ground covered 1 Vide Ramsay, Studies in the History and Art of the Eastern Provinces of the Roman Empire (Aberdeen, 1906), pp. 177-180. 2 The Hittite horses -vrere called by the Egyptians abari, strong or vigorous {Anastasi Pap., iv., PI. xvii., 11. 8-9), but we may suspect that the reference here and elsewhere is to the breeds of Syria (vide Annals of Thothmes iii.) ; Maspero {Struggle of the Nations, p. 215, note 4, and p. 332, note 4) seems divided in his view, referring the passage in one place to Cappadocia and in the other to Syria. Cf. also his Passing of Empires (1900), p. 205. There was a special breed in Cilicia, it would appear, in Persian times, from the reference in Herodotus, iii. 90. 40 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY with white incrustation. Some of these lakes are of such volume as to be permanent; the largest of the kind, as has already been mentioned, is Tuz Geul ; its waters are more dense even than those of the Dead Sea, and as they recede with the approach of summer they leave behind thick deposits of salt, collected regu- larly by the natives, who come many days' journey for the purpose. There is another great lake a long day's journey westward from Iconium; its situation, however, is quite different from the foregoing, as it is well up in the western mountains, nearly four thousand feet above the sea. The town of Beyshehr, which gives its name to the lake, is found on its south-eastern corner ; and the road thereto from Iconium passes by Fassiler, a place remarkable for its ancient monuments and the peculiar facial type of its inhabitants. Further to the north, and near the eastern border of the lake, is Eflatoun-Bunar, the site of a famous ' Lycaonian ' structure called ' Plato's spring.' With the tract west- ward of Konia, however, we have at present little con- cern,^ and when we turn eastward we are inclined to regard the Hittite sites, whether along the edge of Taurus like Mahalich and Ivriz, or isolated in the desert like Emir-Ghazi, as pertaining not to Konia, from which they are separated by desert, but to the same group as Tyana, with which they are to some extent geographically connected. This eastern group of sites, indeed, is remarkably linked together by a common river system. The centre is the ' White Lake ' Ak Geul, at the foot of the Taurus, westward from Eregli, and southward from the desert ' It is, however, full of interests, as any student of Professor Ramsay's researches will know. PLATE XVIII NICFEZ KEUI : MINARET OF THE VILLAGE MOSQUE Built of the drum of a fluted column, an altar and moulded base, of [he Roman period. (S£e ^. ^i.) ANATOLIAN HOUSES; THE HALT AT NOONDAY (Seep. 39.) THE SOUTH-EASTERN REGION 41 ridge called Karaja Dagh, on the northern slopes of which is Emir-Ghazi.^ This lake is of variable size. When overfull its surplus waters disappear in a hole that passes under the mountain ; during the dry season, however, it becomes a marshy pond of stagnant water. Into this come three chief rivers. From the south-east the Ak Su, which rises in the main chain of Taurus, drains also the outlying spur known as the Kara Dagh, on the crest of which is Mahalich. Here also is Bin Bir Kilisse, ' The Thousand and One Churches,' an ancient site ; while just to the north the isolated hill called Kizil Dagh rises from the plain. From the south-east there comes the Kodja Su from high in the Bulghar Dagh, flowing past Eregli, be- fore w^hich it is joined by a stream that with wonderful noise gushes forth in many points from the rock near the hamlet of Ivrlz, six or seven miles above the town. This source is called by the natives Huda Verdi, ' God- has-given,' in appreciation of a divine gift that trans- forms an arid corner of the desert into a garden-valley rich in fruit-trees and vines. Into the same lake from the north-east comes the Kizilja Su, after a sluggish journey across the eastern plains, fed in its course by many streams descending from the inner ranges of the Taurus. The head-waters of this river give life to a whole district of peculiar interest. The main stream rises just northward at Andaval, flowing past that village to Nigdeh and thence to Bor; just below here it is joined by another branch on which is Kilisse Hissar, the site of old-time Tyana. Here are abundant and picturesque ruins of antiquity, and though nothing ' Professor Kamsay's Luke the Physician, pp. 129 ft. , tells of numberless neglected irrigation works in the desert and on the slopes of Taurus. The country must, at one time, have presented quite a different appear- ance. 42 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY has yet been found earlier than the time of the Phrygian Midas,' there seems to be no doubt from the accounts of Strabo and other sources that it was from earliest times the political centre of this region. It is even probable that the Hittite inscriptions found in each of the neighbouring towns just mentioned have been transported from here in past times.^ This district is mostly level, being actually the eastern border of the plain, though lying at the foot of the Ala Dagh Mountains that from here trend north-east towards Argaeus. Owing doubtless to the various ferti- lising properties of the numerous streams that come down from the hills the whole country is unusually fruit- ful and productive ; indeed, the region around Bor was in olden times selected as a part of the Roman Imperial Estate. Everywhere are ^ide acres of corn-land ; while in the vicinity of the town are gardens, groves, and vineyards, adding to the attraction which the numerous monuments of antiquity already impart to it. The same features prevail all along the route from Csesarea by Injesu, passing by the extensive groves and gardens of Develi Karahissar and the miles of arable land, dry but productive, between Arabli and Andaval. The approach to Tyana, as we proceed, runs for miles alongside an ancient but ruined aqueduct, picturesquely placed among gardens and trees.^ Continuing south, the rolling plains give w^ay gradually to the outlying spurs of the Taurus, and the main route crossing the watershed leads on towards the Cilician Gates, down the main valley of the Chakia Su."* 1 See below, p. 56, and PI. xxv. (iii). 2 Cf. Eamsay and Hogarth, Recueilde Travaux, xiv. (1893), pp. 74 and ff. 3 See PI. LV. * Locally called the Bozanti Su or Ak Su, from the names of Important points along the route ; it is a main tributary of the Sarus, which it joins after uniting with the Korkun as it nears the plain. PLATE XIX BOR : BRIDGE OVEK THE KIZILJA-SU A VALLEY IN THE TAURUS 43 A mountain-track, leaving the road at Bayal, leads southward over a series of parallel ridges of increasing height and grandeur ^ directly for Bulghar-Maden. The silver mines, to which the place owes its name and probably its being, seem to have been considerably worked in ancient times. The village is found deep in a valley under the Bulghar Dagh, a chief range of Taurus, nearly nine thousand feet in height. The stream rises far up the ridge, from the opposite side of which a branch of the Kodja Su flows down towards Ivriz and Eregli. Its course is eastward, and as it dashes down its rocky bed it is already, when passing Bulghar-Maden, nearly three thousand feet below the snow-splashed crags along the base of which it flows. From there the valley, though narrow and steep-sided, assumes the verdant and enchanting beauty that ever dwells by mountain-streams, lending character to a large portion of the Hittites' country. But to the traveller following in summer-time the track that winds down the left bank of the river, this beauty and enchantment is intensified here by the vast setting of the picture, by its fulness and variety of detail and rich contrasts of colours, combined with the move- ment and variegated costumes of the people that mingle in the scene. The banks are fruit-gardens, and wildflowers of varied sorts carpet the ground with splendour. Vines and mulberries are in profusion ; and ripe cherries may be plucked even from the saddle, their bright clusters mottling everywhere the dark green foliage. Below, the swirling waters, seen at intervals, contribute also their harmonious changes, being white and gleaming where played on by the bright sunlight, and again clear green in the deeper ' See frontispiece. 44 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY pools and shaded places. From among the trees, the bright colours prevailing in Turkish costumes, reds and blues, yellow and white, add to the effect; for the whole population of the scattered hamlets, men and women, boys and girls, are in the gardens or beneath the trees. At one place may be seen an aged couple bending side by side at their work upon their tiny plot of land. Below, under a spreading tree, against the stem of which he leans, a bare-legged boy is piping his reed flutes, as Marsyas did, while boys and girls stand near in groups talking and at play. Beyond, out of sight of these, upon a sand-and-pebble beach two little boys, quite naked, are dancing merrily by themselves to the distant music. In the background rises the immense wall of mountain : its lower slopes are thickly wooded with larch and pines, giving way in the middle heights to scrub oak, which continues to struggle upward until the bleak rock appears. Over- head a curious phenomenon tempers the heat of noon- day in this happy valley, especially on windless days when its beneficence is most appreciated. Towards mid- day a mist, arising probably from the melting of the snows upon the ridge, spreads over the valley like a canopy, and so it remains until as the afternoon wears on the vapour re-condenses, and the bright sun reap- pears to cheer the evening. Except for this peculiarity the valley resembles in general many of those innum- erable sheltered rifts among the Taurus and Anti- Taurus Mountains, wherein the rigour of winter is recompensed by the bounteous summer, and the scat- tered population pursues its life, isolated from and almost independent of the moving world. Where this mountain-stream unites with the Chakia Su a bridge carries the track across to the other bank PLATE XX to HISTORIC PASS THROUGH TAURUS 45 to join equally the main road to the South. This is the historic route leading through the Cilician Gates, the only pass available for traffic through the unbroken rock wall of Taurus. Peoples have passed through it that have formed nations ; the armies of conquerors have traversed it in the struggle of continents ; religions from the East have made it their channel of approach towards the unthinking West ; Paul of Tarsus travelled through it bringing the Cross of Peace ; and through it the Crusaders took back in due time the Cross of War. Makers of history — Persian, Greek, and Mace- donian; Christian, Jew, and Moslem, all have passed this way. The nicely engineered road, however, with its bridges and embankments, its rock-cuttings and eased gradients, is a work of modern times. At the opening of our story we must look back to the begin- nings of the pass in a rough track alongside the rushing stream. Even in early Hittite times, if we pay regard to the disposition of their monuments, it seems pro- bable that the longer but more open route that follows the Tochma Su, and the shorter but rocky track that descends by Kuru-Bel, continued to be the chief lines of coramunication between the two main branches of their empire.^ Previous, however, to Persian times the road through the Cilician Gates must have been sufficiently arranged to enable a wheeled cart or chariot to pass that way.^ The route may be divided into main sections, the first 1 It is stated, however, by Aucher-Bloy, Relations de Voyages en Orient de 1830 a 1838, i. p. 160, that a rock sculpture (of uncertain character) which he had seen in the Cilician Gates was destroyed in 1834. ^ We may reasonably suspect that this dates from the revival of the Hittite state with Tyana as its centre, in the tenth century B.C. (See above, p. 24, and below, p. 373.) On this question see Eamsay, Tlie Cities of St. Paul (London, 1907), pp. 114 and ff., also Pauline and other Studies (London, 1906), ch. xi. ; cf. also, for a description of the route, Davis, Life in Asiatic Turkey (London, 1879), ch. viii. 46 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY reaching as far as Bozanti Han. In this portion, which may be regarded as the northern approach to the Cilician Gates, the scenery gradually attains all the beauties of a deep mountain-pass. The steep slopes of the valley are clad with the dense growth of pines, mixed freely with oak and cypress, and other trees of varying foliage. In places the bare rock protrudes and towers aloft precipitously, with sharp peaks reaching to the snow-line. Ever and again a more open glade, or the widening of the wooded valley where the river is joined by other waters, adds pleasing variety to the journey, and brings into greater pro- minence the boldness and beauty of the views. At one place, visible by a short detour, there burst out of the rock the clear dark waters called appropriately Kara Su, changing the colour of the entire river. Several ' Hans ' ^ are passed and bridges crossed before nearing Bozanti; and hereabouts the river, with which the road has descended thus far, enters a rocky and pre- cipitous defile through which it rushes to the plain. Avoiding this, the route crosses a low divide, and descends upon an arm of another river, the Cydnus, which leads down eventually to Tarsus and the sea. For a short way in this second section of the route the country is more open, but the enchantment of it is maintained in the wooded highland landscapes, with views of the dark green slopes of rugged Taurus and the snowy crest and crevices of Bulghar Dagh. Two well-placed ornamental forts ^ are passed, and the winding road, when seemingly faced by an impenetrable ridge of mountain, enters suddenly a deep rocky gorge. The spot is marked by an inscription of Marcus Aurelius ' Roadside rest-houses. Cf . Pis. xiii. , xx. 2 Built or rebuilt it would seem by Ibrahim Pasha. PLATE XXI ENTKANCE OF THE CILICIAN GATES THE CILICIAN GATES 47 on a rock in the river's bed. This is the veritable Gate of Cilicia. A double door would close it and defy an army. In keeping with its momentous history, the scenery as the descent continues at once assumes a wild and impressive grandeur, unparalleled in beauty, passing description, to which all that has passed before served but as introduction. Now the keynote is changed, and Nature's full orchestra breaks forth into a theme of violent and majestic discords, ever changing yet sus- tained, leaving for ever the impression of its grand harmonies. Here the crags tower up a thousand feet on either side. A myriad trees, their varied tones intensified by the glowing sunlight, clothe with soft colours the heights that hem in the horizon save where it is broken by fantastic peaks. Now the valley is torn by great rifts of red and grey rock, and warning pre- cipices of prodigious character overhang the path- way. Below, on a verdant bed bedecked with flowers and creepers, peaceful glades and vistas disclose the chequered, waters of the stream. Another turn, and a broad sweep of virgin forest lines the slopes in an unbroken curve ; and ever and again Nature's pano- rama changes, attracting the eye to some fresh beauty or surprise. Though seemingly inaccessible, yet up in the wooded heights here and there a small village may be found, its houses nestling among fruit-trees and luxurious wildflowers. The people are very poor, for on these broken hilltops arable spots are scarce and difficult to work. They are also reticent and unsophisticated, and it is impossible to obtain from them any consistent reason as to their choice of dwelling-place while so many miles of corn-land in the interior await man's 48 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY labour. And since the bracing mountain air amid the pines, and the unique views all round, which extend beyond Tarsus to the sea, are to them considerations of last importance, we are left to conjecture in this case also that their ancestors found refuge here from the political storms of an unknown date. We are inclined to believe that this was the reason, and that the date w^as remote, because of the survival amongst them in striking purity of a type of the old Hittite races which, though peculiar, is familiar on the Egyptian monu- ments. It may indeed have been that of the Cilicians in general : it is strongly mongoloid in appearance ex- cept for the nose, which is strong and straight, but fine. The chin is beardless, but there is a thin dark cynical moustache ; the cheek-bones are high and the eyes oblique. In the Egyptian sculptures a pigtail usually completes the striking features of the portrait, but this seems not to have survived the Moslem tonsure. Once through the pass the whole character of the country changes as by a magician's wand and another land unfolds itself. The bracing dry uplands are left behind with their peculiar fascination and unrealised possibilities, and in their place there appear the palm- trees and fruit-gardens of a southern clime, with phy- sical peculiarities, economy, and population entirely different. The western plain of Cilicia is entirely alluvial soil, and is well called the fruit-garden of Western Asia. Towards the east there are some hilly places, but to the north-east the plain stretches out again, following an inland bay of the mountains. These plains seem to be wholly the gift of the numerous rivers which water them. These, descending from the mountainous region above, wherein the nature of the PLATE XXII GOING SOUTH THROUGH THE CILICIAN GATES TARSUS ; THE GARDENS AND THE TOWN THE PLAIN OF CILICIA 49 stone is various and to a large extent volcanic, bring down with them the rich alluvium which is deposited in their sluggish course below. Their names have been already mentioned. Some further streams to the west have a swifter course from the mountains which in that direction gradually approach the sea. Mersina, the modern port, marks almost the western extremity of the plain. The green tract of Cilicia is so shut in to the north by the Taurus ranges, and to the east by the Amanus mountains, and so exposed to the sea, that it seems as if Nature had designed this unique corner of Asia Minor for a history of its own. Its remarkable fertility, however, and the important passes which lead down to it in several directions, make it impossible that it could have been overlooked by any power in possession of its frontiers. For this reason, and in this instance, the absence of any clearly Hittite remains^ must be attributed to accident and to the nature of the country. But it is indeed remarkable that in none of the defiles that connect it with the several portions of the Hittite land has a single Hittite monument been discovered. When we consider how suitable many spots would seem to be for Hittite monuments, whether in the Cilician Gates, or in the valley of the Pyramus, or in the pass leading by Bogche over the Amanus mountains eastward, or on the wave-washed rocks which must be crossed by the coast route to Alexan- dretta, this absence of any Hittite trace becomes the more conspicuous and significant. It establishes the probability towards which we have been already drawn, ' We cannot accept as Hittite, from the evidence before ua, the door- way and carved lintel from Lamas near Aseli-Keui ; Langlois, Voyage en Cilicie, p. 169; Perrot and Chipiez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii. p. 57; Messerschmidt, C.I.H. (1900), PI. xxxiii. b. D 50 A CHAPTER OF GEOGRAPHY that the main channel of communication between the lands of the Hittites in the north of Syria and in Asia Minor was by way of the mountain passes of the Taurus and Anti-Taurus where their monuments are found in comparative plenty. PLATE XXIII ^*^1 TARSUS ; THE CONCHETE WALLS OF DUNUK TASH TARSUS: SACRED STONE IN A COFFIN, IN THE COURT OF AN ARAB SHRINE II SOME PAGES OP HISTORY In this chapter we take a passing glance at the history of the Hittite lands after the Hittite power had passed, down to the establishment of the Seljuk Turks in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries A,D. It is not a connected story, for with the disappearance of the Hittites the political horizon changed: there- after the balance of power in the Near East was several times distributed anew. We must therefore be content to sketch an outline of the general course of eventful history in which the lands subsequently shared, and to note in what manner, but not to what extent, the local records and monuments are evidence of the parts they severally played. We are compelled to make these limitations, for no land on earth can claim a history so momentous as the drama that was worked out in Asia Minor during the centuries that followed the Hittite domination. Here was the scene of a long struggle for supremacy both among its own peoples and between the adjoining portions of the two continents which it connects ; a thousand Iliads would do scant justice to the deeds of arms alone. And the struggle of the continents was not merely for the possession of a land itself rich in minerals and for the most part highly fertile, but for a passage-way for great migrations, civilisations, and religions. To this story we have nothing to contribute, 52 THE LAND OF THE HITTITES no new evidence to bring forward, no new opinions to maintain ; the history of Asia Minor has been written by pens more able and more eom.petent to deal with it.^ In introducing these few pages our object is to subserve our main inquiry ; to enable us to distinguish between the works of the various phases of history that we meet with in our wanderings, and especially to appreciate by contrast the peculiarities of the Hittite monuments which we shall next consider. Though we defer writing the story of the Hittites until we have seen what their own works can tell us, we find ourselves obliged to trace its outline ^ in order to decide at what point that story ends. The Hittites first appear in history about 2000 B.C., when it would appear that they were already powerful enough to overturn the first dynasty of Babylon and sack that city, and that they had settlements in southern Syria on the frontiers of Egypt. Certain Hittite tablets from Central Asia Minor are said to belong to the same age. Nothing is known, however, of the constitution of the Hittites in these early times ; but it may be in- ferred that they subsequently retired from the south or were there submerged. It is not until the fifteenth century B.C. that the name of the Hittites definitely re- appears, when successive expeditions of the Pharaohs encountered them in the north of Syria. Then in the fourteenth century their capital is found at Boghaz- Keui, in the ruins of which their archives of this period have been recently unearthed. These, supplemented by the Tell-el-Amarna letters, tell how the King of the 1 Among works readily accessible, we may refer the reader to Mr. Hogarth's summary in the introduction to Murray's Handbook ; to the articles by Winckler and Brandis in vols. iii. and iv. o£ 27ie World's History, Ed. Helmolt (London, 1902); and for the materials to Kamsay, Historical Geography of Asia itfmor (London, 1890). 2 For a detailed account, with the sources, see below, Chapter vi. SOME PAGES OF HISTORY 53 ' Hatti ' — the local and at that time dominant element — became Great King of the Hittite confederated peoples and vassal states, whose chief towns included most of the sites identified with Hittite remains, like Hamath, Aleppo, Carchemish, Marash, Malatia, and many city- states as yet unidentified. This was the period of their greatest empire, and it is probable that the regions of Oilicia, Lycaonia, Phrygia, and even Lydia at this time acknowledged the suzerainty of the all-powerful soldier-king. For five or six generations of the Hatti rulers the position of the Hittites as a dominant power in Western Asia was recognised by the Pharaohs and the Kings of Babylon, both in their letters and treaties and by the exchange of ambassadors. During the great migrations of the twelfth century B.C., however, it would seem that the Hatti dynasty was overthrown and the Hittite empire dismembered. This may be inferred from the cessation of their own archives and from the appearance of the Muski, identified in later times with the Phrygians,^ upon the north-west frontier of Assyria,^ having thus fought their way across the heart of Asia Minor. These were repulsed,^ but this incursion ■was contemporaneous w^ith a shifting of the chief Hittite power to Carchemish, while Hamath on the Orontes and other southern centres come into increased prominence. In trying, to work out the story of the decline and fall of the Hittite power, we are faced with the same difficulty that enshrouded the whole problem of the Hittites until recent discoveries shed the light of ' The identification of Mita of Muski witli Midas of Phrygia was first pointed out by Winckler, Ostorientalische Forschungen, ii. 71 S. Our inference is that the MuskT^f the Assyrian Annals, the Moschoi of Herodotus (iii. 91), were really akin to the Phrygians of later history. 2 About 1170 B.C. 3 Fifty years later, in the reign of Tiglath Pileser i. 54 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY internal documentary evidence upon the period of their empire — namely, that for the most part only the events connected with certain of their frontier lands came at all within the horizon of the Assyrian and the Greek historians, and these are seen by us with relative disproportion. To take a single illustration, we fail to find in the Egyptian and Assyrian records any suggestion as to the position of the Hittite capital of the fourteenth century at Boghaz-Keui ; and for more than seven hundred years we are without any direct evidence as to its fortunes, until a chance reference by Herodotus in describing the affairs of Lydia tells us of its final overthrow. In the tenth century, however, during the temporary decline of Assyria and the withdrawal of the Phrygians, the Hittite states may be inferred to have largely recovered their power and independence. But though there were frequent alliances between neighbouring states, there does not seem to have been any over-lord, as of old, powerful enough to unite them all under his leadership and to maintain a consistent policy. Malatia and Marash appear as the chief cities of kingdoms in Taurus, while in the Anti-Taurus the kingdom of Tabal (or Tubal) probably included the districts of Komana, Ekrek, Mazaca, and Fraktin. On the plateau the kingdom of the Khilakku, which we may call Greater Gilicia (embracing the region from Tyana to the Kara Dagh, and from Karaburna to Bulghar- Maden), replaced the original state of Hatti within the Halys as chief representative of Hittite power and tradition. But it was not for long : if the Muski had retreated it was only to gather strength ; while in the east a new rival, of force and character similar to the Hittites, had appeared in the region of Lake Van, press- THE LAST OF THE HITTITES 55 ing down to the Euphrates and even into Syria, where also the steady infiltration of Aramaean peoples was already challenging the dominance of the old Hittite stock. From the middle of the ninth century also the struggles of the weakening Hittite tribes against the reviving power of Assyria were renewed ; and this tinae they were doomed. Their lands of Syria and in the Taurus were thereafter the objective of many punitive expeditions on the part of successive Assyrian kings, who claim always to have conquered and exacted tribute. For over a century, however, though many times defeated and severely punished, these states as often found opportunity for casting off the yoke. But Sargon, late in the eighth century, adopted with stern determination the policy which his predecessors had initiated, of transporting large numbers of the rebel- lious population and replacing them by Assyrian colonists. One by one the greater Hittite centres on his frontiers were absorbed, and when the Assyrian forces passed into Asia Minor to challenge the supre- macy of the Phrygian Midas, about 718 B.C., it is clear that these two powers had divided the Hittite territory between them. The appearance, too, in the north, of the Cimmerians, in wellnigh irresistible strength, had changed the political horizon.^ From one point of view, however, it would be natural to point to the destruction of Pteria by Croesus, in the middle of the sixth century B.C., as the last event of Hittite history, and so begin our post-Hittite story from that time. The conquest by Cyrus and the reunifica- tion of all the Hittite lands under Persian rule a few years later, in 546, would provide a suitable starting- ' See the Maps accompanying Chap. vi. pp. 375, 385. 56 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY point ; yet, in fact, from the age of Sargon, a century and a half before, there can be traced no real semblance of surviving Hittite power nor any of the old Hittite individuality in the local arts. Their very name then almost disappeared from Oriental history, and was re- tained but as a memory ; while in Asia Minor the power of the Phrygian kings was then at its zenith, and in the presence of Phrygian inscriptions at Eyuk,^ near the old Hittite capital, and at Tyana,^ which seems to have re- placed Pteria in importance in the revival of the tenth century, there is indication that the Hittite day was already ended. But though the Hittite power was broken and disintegrated, their civilisation faded only gradually from view. Long after the sun had set upon its pride it lingered on, felt rather than seen, in the twilight that obscures our vision of the tableland in the early part of the first millennium B.C., surviving long enough here and there, as we shall see, in the form of institutions and religious customs, to have left a trace in the pages of Greek history. Thereafter we have several clear phases to review, interrupted by others of considerable disturbance and obscurity. Following the overthrow of Assyria on the one hand, and the decline of Phrygia on the other, two new powers appeared in the sixth century in the Medes and the Lydians, who similarly divided Asia Minor, with the Halys as their mutual boundary. By 546, however, Cyrus had annexed the whole country to the Persian Empire, in the continuous history of which it shared until the advent, in B.C. 324, of Alexander, who once more established the supremacy of the West. With ' Hamilton, Researches in Asih Minor, i. p. 383; Ramsay, Jour. Boy. As. Sac. , XV. p. 123. 2 See PI. XXV. (iii), from Liv. Annals, i. PI. xiii. The name of Midas in this inscription was first recognised by Prof. Myres, op cit, p. 13. PLATE XXIV BEY-KEUI : THE ROYAL ROAD TRACED BY RUTS IN THE SURFACE ROCK (Sec pp. 24, 38.) DIMERLl : A FALLEN LION (Sec p. 60. ) MONUMENTS OF PIIRYGIA THE PHRYGIAN IMMIGRATIONS 57 his death the tribal struggles of antiquity reappear in new guise, and history is occupied chiefly with the varying fortunes of the kingdoms of Pergamum, of Pontus, and of the Seleucids, until in the first cen- tury B.C. Roman organisation gathered together the loose threads of independence and retied the knot in a manner that remained firm, in fine, for several hun- dred years. The next great landmark is not till 668 a.d., when, forty-six years after the flight of Mohammed, the Saracen army laid siege to Constantinople. In 1067 the Seljuks appeared from the east, followed two centuries later by the Osmanli-Turks, though these were not finally re-established in power, after the Mongol invasions, until 1413 A.D. Of the monarchies that arose as the Hittite power declined, and in their turn passed away, that of the Phrygians first attracts our attention by its proximity in time and place. When the Muski first appeared in the twelfth century B.C. upon the north-west frontier of Assyria,'^ they gave warning of a tide of Aryan immigration setting in from the north-west. This first wave, after beating vainly against the ramparts of the Assyrian Empire, seems to have retreated ; but it left its traces behind in a group of people, whether colonists or prisoners settled on the soil in the Assyrian manner, who by the same name reappear some centuries later ^ as a small state on the east of the Euphrates opposite Malatia. We know nothing of the early history of this movement, but, so far as can be seen, the rolling of this wave across Asia Minor was coeval with the submergence of the Hatti seated at Boghaz-Keui as 1 Of. Maspero, The Struggle of the Nations, pp. 591, 643. 2 In the reign o£ Assur-Nazir-Pal ; cf. Maspero, The Passing of Empires, p. 16. 58 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY the dominant power among the Hifctite states. Nor is it clear to what cause we must attribute the retiring of this vanguard. Probably, as in Syria with the Hittites/ and in Asia Minor with the Cimmerians, the migratory movement was intermittent ; and histori- cally we may see in the repulse by the Assyrians on the one hand, and in the development of the rival state of Lydia and the Greek colonies on the other, coupled with a certain recuperative vitality latent in the Hittite states of the centre, various active causes tending to the consolidation of the Phrygians at the focus of least resistance, in the fertile tracts to which they gave their name. However that may be, at the dawn of Greek history we find them already a fading power, but one which had left an indelible impression in Greek tradi- tion and romance, obscuring entirely the old-time Hatti power of which no memory remained. Though the settlement of the Phrygians is just beyond historical vision, the leading features of the movement can be inferred from Greek literature, and a certain amount of detail gathered from the monuments which they have left behind.^ The chief migration of the Phrygians — the ninth wave of our simile — may be judged, from certain facts which Pro- fessor Ramsay has pointed out, to have taken place about the beginning of the ninth century B.C. They came in irresistible bands of mail-clad warriors from Macedonia and Thrace, crossing into Asia Minor by the Hellespont, and eventually establishing their monarchy ' Regarding, that is, the successive appearance of the Mitanni, the Hittites, and the Urartu (the Vanuic power) as analogous movements. Cf. Winckler, Mitteil. d. Deuf. Orient.-Ges., December 1907, pp. 47 ff. ; and in The World's History, vol. iii. p. 113 etc. 2 See especially Ramsay, 'A Study of Phrygian Art,' in the Jour. Hell. Stud., ix. (1887-8), pp. 350-352, and an earlier article in vol. iii. pp. 1-32; and Maspero, Tlie Passing of Empires, pp. 328-335. PHRYGIANS m TRADITION 59 and state on the sources of the Sangarius.' Being all men and conquerors, their coming introduced new ideas of the dominance of the male element in religion and in society.^ The pre-existing central ideal of the people of Asia Minor had been based on the importance of motherhood, reflected in religion by the worship of the Mother-goddess, and in society by a matriarchal system and absence of true marriage. Now the Phry- gians introduced a new Father-god and a god of thunder, and a reminiscence of the struggle between the old and new ideals may be traced in the pages of Homer ; but ultimately they were amalgamated in various ways in different parts of the country.' Profound as were the changes in religious and social ideals which the Phrygians introduced, these influences could hardly stir the popular imagination so deeply or so rapidly as their deeds of arms. Defended from all harm by their impenetrable armour, they carried all before them, so that they appeared in Greek tradition as a race of heroes, whose kings were the associates of the gods, whose language was before all,* and the speech of the goddess herself.^ ' Their country was the land of great fortified cities.' ^ In this popular acclaim we suspect that the Phrygians received credit for works and to some extent for the prestige of the Hatti whose realm they had inherited.'^ Their king- 1 Cf. Homer, Iliad, iii. 187 ; xti. 719. 2 On this point, see Ramsay, Cities and Bishoprics of Phrygia (Oxford, 1895), i. p. 7. 5 Ramsay, loc. cit. Cf. the central group of Hittite sculptures at lasily Kaya, PI. Lxv., where, however, the Father-god, the consort of the Mother-goddess, is seemingly derived from Babylonian origins. So, too, the Storm-god of the Hittites has clearly a Babylonian prototype in Hadad. On the subject of the Hittite deities, see below, pp. 356 ff. * Herodotus, ii. 2. ^ Homer, Hymn. Aphr. Ill and ff. " ^pvyiris ivTicxriToio. Cf. Ramsay, loc. cit. ' In this opinion we may appear to differ from Hogarth, Ionia and the East (Oxford, 1909), p. 70, but the standpoints are different. 60 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY dom without doubt held chief sway over the north- west and centre of Asia Minor during the ninth and eighth centuries B.C. In the west, indeed, it was only at the end of that period challenged by the indepen- dence and growing strength of Lydia ; and on the other hand it must have embraced, as we have shown, the regions both of Pteria^ and of Tyana, where it touched the Assyrian frontier in the age of Sargon > but on the whole we fail to find any wide range of Phrygian works, of walled cities or of vast monu- ments, that could entitle the Phrygians to the whole credit of these memories. None the less, some Phrygian monuments, like the ' tomb of Midas' near Doghanlu, are striking, peculiar, and impressive. So, too, are others further south, of which we reproduce some illustrations,^ because of the added interest of the influence of Hittite art and technique which can be traced in them. The ' lion tomb,' near Dimerli, illustrates a motive dominant in their decorative reliefs, reflected in the later sepulchres of Ayazin. Here are seen two lions, guarding as it were the entrance to the tomb, arranged facing one another on either side of the door. In the tomb of Dimerli the lions are rampant, and a column or altar is seen between them. The symbolism of this design may be purely Phrygian, but the decorative conception of the twin guardian lions is too freely found in ' In addition to tlie Plirygian inscrii3tions at Eyuk, cited above, the story o£ Dasliylos, tile fugitive Lydian prince (b.c. 720), indicates close political relation between the two sides of the Halys at this time ; for when fearful of remaining in Phrygia at the accession of Myrsos to the Lydian throne, for greater security he crossed the Halys and took refuge with the 'White Syrians.' Cf. Nicholas of Damascus, Fragm. Hist. Grec. (ed. Miiller-Didot), No 49. On the relationship with Pteria and the Chalybes see also Radet, La Lydie et le Monde Grec, pp. 63, 111. 2 Pis. XXIV., XXV. PLATE XXV P^^^L^ .-: , . -M-r/ -'■■'v'-^-'i. Ik^i .•■^-■;^ :«^| ^ssnn ir S_i^'' *-:^^^^ Ji--'-V ^S'?;.*-*'— -"- ^-i" •^Ml *afe DIMEKLI ; THE LION TOMB AYAZlN : TOMB WITH LIONS MONUMENTS OF PHRYGIA TVANA : PHUYGIAN INSCKIITION OF MIDAS (See/,. 56.) THE PHRYGIANS IN HISTORY 61 Hittite art ^ for us to doubt that it had been borrowed from the older population. So, too, in the method of carving the reliefs, as well as in detail of treatment, as, for instance, in the outline of the shoulder muscles of the fallen lion,^ there is abundant indication to us now of an influence not visible to the historians of antiquity. Though the monuments and legends together help us to reconstruct the base and framework of Phrygian history, there are very few authenticated data with which to fill in the details. There is no long list of royal names, for the rulers are supposed to have been named Midas and Gordius alternately ; and a few other names preserved in Greek tradition are merely legen- dary. It is not until the age of Sargon ' at the close of the eighth century B.C., that a few facts come to light among the Assyrian archives. Then it would appear that the Phrygian sphere of influence had penetrated far into south-eastern Oappadocia and was expanding, until challenged by the Assyrian forces in a series of campaigns beginning in 718 B.C. But Midas the Phry- gian was not easily restrained, and in the next year prevailed on Pisiris of Carchemish to revolt against the Assyrian supremacy, while several minor states of Cappadocia, forming part of the region called Tabal, followed this example, prompted, doubtless, from the same source of inspiration. The rebels were promptly punished, and one of these expeditions sent against them penetrated, it would seem, to Tyana, at this time an important centre for the Phrygians * in the conduct 1 Cf. Pis. LX., Lxxviii. 2 PI. XXIV. (ii); cf. pp. 121, 263, 289. 2 Our newest authority for this period is Olmatead, Western Asia in the Days of Sargon (New York, 1908). " If the Tuna of the Assyrians be really Tyana, there is clear evidence of Phrygian supremacy there in 714, in the fact that Matti of Tuna dis- claimed his allegiance to Assyria and turned to Midas. If, however, Tuna is to be located somewhat further east (cf . the Tynna of Ptolemy v., 62 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY of their wars. In 709, however, following a further expedition sent against Midas from Cilicia, the Phry- gians capitulated, sending ambassadors and tribute. The reason for this sudden change of front is also made apparent. About the middle of the eighth century B.C. there had appeared the first wave of an overwhelming movement of peoples from Southern Europe,^ including seemingly both Cimmerians and Scythians, coming by way of the Caucasus, spreading terror and devastation as it passed. The Vannic power of Urartu in Southern Armenia about 720 B.C. received the first onslaught, and then the frontiers of Sargon, who had to call up all the resources of his armies to protect his kingdom. Recoiling, the tide set west- ward through Asia Minor, meeting about 710 another similar stream ^ that had crossed the Bosphorus ; and the united barbarians for half a century established a reign of terror in the north of Asia Minor. The details of the story are wanting, so far as it directly affects the Phrygians during this fateful period. About 675 however, the royal Midas (presumably the grandson of Mita who had begged Assyria through his ambas- sadors for help), defeated on every hand, in despair committed suicide. The Cimmerians overran his country, and the kingdom of Phrygia henceforth ceased to be. We do not follow the movements of these hordes further; for they have left no trace or handiwork upon the Hittite lands w^hich they had overrun, although it was not until the close of 6, 22, and Maspero, The Passing of Empires, p. 239, note 2), or south- east at Paustinopolis (Ramsay, Hist. Geog., p. 68), then the inference is equally clear that the Phrygian sphere reached at least to Tyana, if not beyond. This evidence is supplementary to that of the inscription already mentioned (PI. xxv.). 1 Herodotus, iv. 11, 12. We follow the story as worked out by Maspero, op cit, p. 345. 2 iStrabo, xiv. i. 40. LYDIAN KINGS AND STATE 63 the seventh century that they disappeared. Their inroads, however, and the violent deflections which they gave to the course of history, are pro- bably responsible for the final disappearance of all trace and memory of the Hittite power in Greek history. The Lydian state in the west, that fought the final struggle for civilisation against these restless and untir- ing foes, next claims our notice from the way in which certain of its institutions and ancient customs reflect the influence of the Hittite civilisation, from which, in- deed, they may have been inherited.^ Unlike the rulers and customs of Phrygia, the leading elements of the Lydian society had been matured on the soil from dim antiquity. Tradition speaks of a dynasty of Heraclidae who ruled from the twelfth century for five hundred years,^ and whose ancestor, Agron,^ was descended from Hercules himself. Even before that date there is memory of a royal family of Atyadae, whose rule, if there be anything in this memory, must have passed back to the days of direct Hittite domination that saw the carving of the warrior-gods of Kara-Bel and maybe the Mother-goddess of Sipylus. However that may be, we see the Lydians already an organised state, even while the Phrygian power was still at its height, before the Cimmerian storm had burst. As with the Hittites in past time, their consti- tution was partly that of confederate or vassal states governed by hereditary chiefs owning allegiance to the ' Cf. Maspero, op. cit., p. 336 ; also Sayce, Empires of the East, i. p. 427. ^ Herodotus, i. 7. On the way in which the date is derived, see Schubert, Gesch. der Konige von Lydien, p. R. ' For tiie character of the early names and their relation to the Hittite see Sayce, loc. cit. ; cf. also Hall on Mursil and Myrtillos, Jour. Hell. Stud., xxix. (1909), pp. 19-22; and on the same point, Winckler in the Orientalistische Littercttur-Zeitung, Dec. 1906. 64 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY ruling power at Sardis, and partly feudal,^ the chief- tains owing their military service and their tribal forces to the king, while the common people appear as serfs. In this society the king was both head of the priesthood and chief commander of the vassal chiefs in war.^ The emblem of sovereignty was a double axe, which the Greeks said was derived from Hercules himself.^ From among the mass of legend which characterise the earliest efforts of Greek history, it might be possible to trace many suggestions of the influence of the Hittite civilisation; but the lack of local monuments (a fact due doubtless to physical con- ditions), to reveal to us the dominant features of Lydian art, restrains us from this aspect of inquiry. One point at any rate is established, that not merely was the district of Lydia at one time embraced within the Hittite empire,* but that it became imbued then with many features of social organisation which it carried down from the old world to the new. Our main inquiry being based on the monuments of the Hittite lands, we cannot dwell upon the stories of the Lydian kings, of their desperate struggles with the Cimmerians following the downfall of Phrygia, nor of their warfare with the Medes, with whom, after the fall of Nineveh in 607 B.C., they ultimately divided Asia Minor, with the Halys as the boundary between them. The names of two kings are worthy of mention as historical land- ' Gelzer, Das Zeitalter des Gyges, Ehelns. Mus., vol. xxxv. pp. 520-524 ; cf. Badet, La Lydie et le Monde Grec, etc., pp. 90, 91. 2 Ct. the position of the Hatti kings, pp. 340, 361 ff ; and of the kings of Comana, of Pontus, and other states (Strabo, Bk. xii. ch. iii. sec. 32). On this subject see also Ramsay, in Recueil de Travaux, vol. xiv. pp. 78 ff, on ' The Pre-Hellenic Monuments of Cappadocia.' ^ For the double axe in Hittite symbolism, see PI. Lxv. ; and for the relation of the God-of-the-double-axe to Hercules, see pp. 195, 240. * On this question, and on the whole subject of Hittite influence sur- viving in the civilisations of the western coast, see the brilliant survey by Hogarth, Ionia and the East, especailly pp, 74 ff. and lOX-2, PLATE XXVI VIEW NEAR SARDIS, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF LYDIA The valley of the Pactolus, a tributary of the Hermus, which rising on Mt. Tmolus flowed past the temple of Kybele at Sardis. HITTITE CULTURE IN THE WEST 65 marks ; the one is Gyges, first of the Mermnad dynasty in the middle of the seventh century B.C., contemporary of Assurbanipal, the Assyrian, and of Psamtek, Pharaoh of Egypt, with both of whom he held relations of diplomatic character. The other is Croesus, the last and greatest of them all, who, having established his power eastward to the Halys, turned his attention to those rich Greek cities which had sprung up in the West. These colonies, founded in selected spots along the coast several centuries before, had indeed in many cases already passed their zenith. Cities like Smyrna, Ephesus, and Colophon were in the pride of their prosperity before the fall of Phrygia and the rise of Lydia. How old they were in their origin is not determinable, but they had received, and retained in historic times, the impress of the Hittite civilisation, so much so that Mr. Hogarth, writing of Ionia, concludes that 'this coast was long dominated by an inland, continental power, that of the Cappadocian Hatti, who imposed their own distinct civilisation, and admitted the jSJgean culture only as a faint influence ascending along the trade routes.' ' ' The Goddess of the Phrygian mountains became at Smyrna the Sipylene Mother, and at Ephesus Artemis of the Many Breasts was worshipped with rites more Oriental than Greek.' Recently also Sir Cecil Smith, in discussing certain ivory statuettes found by Mr. Hogarth in the founda- tions of the temple of Artemis, has pointed out further analogies with the old cult of the goddess, as revealed by the sculptures of Boghaz-Keui.^ However that may be, the fact that the Hittite armies of the 1 Op. cit., pp. 101-2. 2 Excavations at Ephesus : i. The Archaic Artemisia p. 173, 66 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY fourteenth or thirteenth century B.C. had penetrated to the coast at Smyrna and Ephesus, is made clear by the sculptures of Sipylus and of Kara-Bel, to which we have alluded.^ Now these fair cities of Ionia fell one by one to Croesus, who seemed likely to establish an empire even over the islands, when suddenly Cyrus the Persian appeared from the East, reuniting all the sundered parts of the old empires of Assyria and of Babylon as he passed. Croesus marched immediately out to resist his oncoming, and as a preliminary step crossed the Halys and ' ravaged the lands of the " Syrians," and took the city of the Pterians and enslaved the inhabitants. He also took all the adjacent places and expelled the population, who had given him no cause for blame.' ^ Possibly we may see in these acts, which appeared wanton to the historian, an effort on the part of Croesus to delay or prevent the passing of the Per- sian army, which would naturally follow the old royal road in preference to the undeveloped route across the desert. However that may be, the effort was vain: about 546 B.C. the Lydian capital and its king fell into the hands of Cyrus. The old Hittite realms were now reunited under Persian rule, and continued to share in the common history of the Empire of the Great King for more than two hundred years. For the purpose of administration Asia Minor was divided into provinces, governed by Satraps, of which the old kingdom of Lydia formed one, and the regions of Konia, Angora, Pteria, and Sivas were included in another, the largest of all, which reached from Lydia to Armenia, and included the whole plateau from the Taurus northwards to the sea. 1 Above, p. 37 ; see also below, p. 338, and Pis. Liii., Liv. 2 Herodotus, i. 76. ASIA MINOR UNDER PERSIAN RULE 67 The tract of Cilicia with part of the province of Aleppo formed another, while the former Hittite states in the north of Syria were similarly grouped together. But the hold of the Great King ruling in Susa over his distant provinces was weak, and the spirit of Persian civilisation did not penetrate, or could not, into these historic lands. No monument remains to tell us of this phase, during which the old local institutions were maintained and even developed unrestrained. The Greek cities of the coast retained their Greek characters under Greek governors ; while the tribes of the interior restored the rule of their local princes or priest-dynasts amid a condition of security and freedom which they had not known for many generations. All that the central power demanded was tribute and tranquillity. Local feuds between the Satraps might smoulder, and the symptoms of rebellion here and there remain almost unheeded, so long as these con- ditions were fulfilled. Under these circumstances the western people gradually recovered the spirit of inde- pendence, while from across the sea the Greek states even aspired to empire. The march of the Ten Thou- sand in 40^, under Cyrus the younger, made famous by Xenophon in his Anabasis, showed how lax was the organisation and how weak the control of the central government. It also opened up incidentally the south- ern route by the Maeander, Ilgin, and Iconium to the Cilician gates, in preference to the longer royal road by way of Boghaz-Keui, by which hitherto the posts from Susa had travelled west to Sardis. In B.C. 334 Alexander the Great crossed the Helles- pont, and within a year, by his energy and ability to use the new army-machine which he had inherited, had conquered western Asia Minor as far as the Halys, and 68 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY passed on leaving it his own. This date marks an issue more changeful to Asia Minor than the conquest of Cyrus. For though no monuments throw light on the story of the next two centuries, the system of govern- ment was now initiated which in due time was to result in the Hellenising of the interior. Cities were founded with Greek names, and the Greek speech gradually made its way, through Greek-speaking princes and governors, as the official language. The change worked very slowly, but it was profound in the issue, as we shall see. At first the states maintained their old customs and native dialects without appre- ciable difference, except in the vigour of the new government, but in the course of two or three cen- turies Greek language and Greek culture even to some extent Greek thought and religious ideas, had permeated widely among the upper-class natives of the interior. The struggles of Alexander's successors, who had in- herited from him the empire, are matters of common history. The Seleucids reunited, though in futile manner, the formerly Hittite regions in the north of Syria and Cilicia, and for a time gained some ascend- ency in Asia Minor, until defeated in 191 B.C. and driven back beyond the Taurus, where for another century they retained a sphere of influence. But of greater interest to us is the survival of local power in Cappa- docia, under the dynasty of Ariarthes, which had come to the fore in the last century of Persian domination. This state, at first with incessant warfare, and then by means of tribute to the Seleucids, maintained in efPect a form of local independence which survived even down to the Roman occupation and beyond. Another state that retained its freedom and local princes throughout this time was Bithynia, on the tract opposite Constan- PLATE XXVI r DIVISION INTO ROMAN PROVINCES 69 tinople, but this is a region outside the boundaries of our story. The Romans dallied long in following up the defeat of the Seleucids at Magnesia, when the way lay open to the annexation of Asia Minor, for which its people» torn by their internal wars, would have been even grateful. But it was not until late in the second century B.C. that the west was united as a Roman province. Even then the east remained under the direct govern- ment of the local princes, to whom the Roman Senate entrusted their frontier. At the beginning of the first century B.C. the disaffection of Mithridates, king of Pontus, a state bordering the Black Sea, and his efforts to win for himself a kingdom in Cappadocia and Bithynia, was one of the last fitful traces of the old native power, and called up more serious efforts on the part of Rome. The Cilician pirates, who from their base under the southern slopes of Taurus had become a leading naval power, were also suppressed, and dur- ing the century that followed the whole country as far as the Euphrates was gradually brought under direct control, and the provincial system was established. The province of Cilicia had been founded in B.C. 103, and after various successive modifications, during which the western district, Cilicia Trachsea, continued to be ruled by the priest-dynasts of Olba, the whole was united with Lycaonia under a consular legate about 137 A.D. Bithynia Pontus, the scene of the late re- hellions, came into the power of Rome by the will of its last king in B.C. 74, and the double province was put under the administration of a praetorian proconsul in B.C. 27. Galatia was constituted in B.C. 25, and Pontus was added to it in 63 a.d. Finally, the occupation of Cappadocia, dating from a.d. 17, completed the division 70 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY of the administrative districts ; for the sixth province Asia, in the west, had been the earliest founded, as we have noted, in B.C. 133. The system of Roman organisation at first modified and finally broke up the old tribal communities. For some time, many old-world institutions were main- tained, notably the priest-dynasts of Comana, Olba, and Venasa ; but gradually the native communal temple-district organisation of society gave way, to be replaced by the Greek political system, the seeds of which had been planted two or three centuries before, and had now taken root. In this system the city be- came the administrative centre, and the villages around were its branches. Greek became more and more the language of the people.^ The formal records of military works, the milestones and imperial monuments, are inscribed in Latin, but the inscriptions in the old grave- yards are carved in Greek letters. We cannot dwell upon the history of these times, of the reorganisation under Diocletian, at the close of the third century, marking the commencement of the Byzantine period, nor of the spread of Christianity, with the great social changes that involved. We reproduce, however, some illustrations of Roman works, such as are met with in plenty throughout the length and breadth of Hittite lands, from Malatia to Iconium and beyond, from Tarsus to the Black Sea coast. The great aqueducts like those of Tyana,^ and those which stretch for miles across the Cilician plain,' are an indication of the vast scheme of development that was instituted under the new well-ordered system of government. Great cities both in Syria and in Asia Minor were the product of 1 On this subject see Mommsen, The Provinces of the Roman Empire (London, 1909), pp. 120, 123. 2 PI- LV. 3 PI. XXVII. KYRKHUS : KOMAN TOMB AND KUINliD KKIDGE (Seei. 71.) RUINS OF A ROMAN CITY 71 these times. Many of these were the foundations of places that still remain centres of administration ; while some have lost their importance, and are falling gradu- ally to ruin in silence and desolation. The remains of Kyrrhus upon the Afrin,^ a site now marked only by the small village of Huru-Pegamber some distance away, are among the wonderful memorials of antiquity. The imposts are falling from their pilasters, and the keystones to its arches are working loose, but it retains its silent streets of impressive stone buildings, its arches and colonnades, its amphitheatre, as though its people had quitted hardly a generation ago. Numerous Greek inscriptions may still be found amongst the ruins,^ and just southward of the Acropolis several sarcophagi of marble, with Greek names upon them, indicate the position of the old-time burying place. In the extreme south of the site, with its sanctity still maintained in a modern Mohammedan shrine and well adjoining, there stands perfect a tomb-structure ^ in the Roman style of the second century A.D. We give a photograph of this, which is one of the best-preserved examples of its kind. Our other photographs * taken at Ephesus and at Ba'albec,^ at the two ends of the Hittite lands, will 1 This place was visited by Drummond, Travels . . . in Parts of Asia to the Euphrates (London, 1874), who gives a sketch plan (No. 9 to f. p. 201). Theodoret in his Ecclesiastical History mentions three inscriptions over the gate, as well as a castle, a ' very superb ' Theatre, a Basilica, Temple, and other buildings ; cf. also Maundrell, A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem, (ed. 1799), p. 158. 2 For these see a paper by the Kev. W. M. Linton Smith, in the Liv. Annals of Arch., 1910. ' PI. XXVIII. Cf. the Mausolee Pyramidal de Maktar, published by Gauckler, Les travaux d'Art . . . en Tunisie, in Revue Generate des Sciences (Paris, November 30, 1896), p. 971, fig. 15. Also tombs at Aries and in Algeria, published by Gsell in Les Monuments Antiques d'Algerie (Paris, 1901). For these references we are indebted to Professor Bosanquet. * Pis. XXIX., XXX. ' The old Aramaean name for Heliopolis ; it is really just south of the historic Hittite frontier in the Lebanon. 72 SOME PAGES OF HISTORY sufficiently illustrate the art and civilisation of their time and place. The very prosperity of the country during the Roman occupation was one cause of its danger, presenting it as an alluring prize to the forces gradually arising along its frontiers. The extreme centralisation of the Byzan- tine system weakened, if it did not altogether exter- minate, the power of local resistance andadministration. So long as the central government remained powerful all was well, but the danger of the system was mani- fested by the ease with which the Arab forces in 668 passed through the land from end to end, pausing only before the walls of Constantinople. The hold of the Saracen power, however, was not firm, and the Roman system was possessed of great latent vitality which in the end was equal to the emergency, so that in a series of campaigns extending from 920 to 965, the Saracens were driven back from point to point, until firstTarsus ^ was recovered and then Antioch, which had for more than three hundred years been in their possession. The Seljuk Turks, who next appeared on the scene, were a more formidable and resistless enemy. Having at one time been the servants of the Arab sultans, they had now become the masters, and in 1067 they entered Asia Minor, conquering Cilicia and Cappadocia. Four years later the Emperor Romanus Diogenes himself was their prisoner, and by 1081 the whole centre and east of the tableland was recognised as their realm. Adopting a policy of depopulation and devastation, in which the whole of Phrygia was laid waste, the Turks rapidly set up an almost impassable frontier between themselves and the Byzantine power which still held ' For photographs of the ruins and city of Tarsus see PI. xxii., xxiii. ; cf. also Ramsay, Cities of St. Paul, Part ii., with Pis. ii.-v. PLATE XXIX SELJUK AND OSMANLI TURKS 73 sway in the West. Notwithstanding spasmodic efforts of the old rulers to regain their dominion, the country gradually relapsed into Orientalism, and with the rise of the Osmanli Turks from 1289 the Empire of the West rapidly disintegrated. Under the Seljuk rule, a new aspect of decorative art and architecture appeared in Asia Minor, a phase much neglected yet most worthy, as Professor Ramsay has pointed out, of special study. Under certain of their lines a brilliant series of monu- ments arose, among which the Hans ^ or roadside rest- houses are specially noteworthy, contributing also as they did to public security and pacification. In addition to these, other public works like their bridges and forti- fications, as well as their mosques and colleges with cloisters and sculptures, are all evidence of one of the brightest phases of Moslem art. Some of the beautiful monuments which are shown in our illustrations, like the sculptured portal of the old school (or Midresseh) at Nigdeh, and the ' tomb of Havanda,' at the same place,^ with its delicate tracery and design, belong to the best phases of this memorable period. With the enthronement of the Seljuks the old world faded rapidly from view. No conquest in all the history of the Hittite lands had been so thorough and so enduring. Previously we had seen old institutions surviving under a new system that grew up around them; but now a new language and new forms of government, with new administrative districts, were imposed by the conquerors ; while the devastation of the earlier stages of the conquest, followed by the repeated incursions of nomad peoples, profoundly modified the racial stock of the population. With them the modern Turkey-in-Asia was born. ' See PI. XXXIV. (ii). ^ Pis. xxxii., xxxiii. Ill MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES Preliminary : Chronology — Classification — Disposition With this outline of the chief historical phases of Asia Minor before us, we pass from the remains of mediaeval and classical antiquity to a consideration of those more ancient monuments which bear witness to Hittite handi- work. Notwithstanding the progress of historical re- search, these remain the surest basis for the study of our subject, giving us an insight into the Hittite civilisa- tion, which is rendered more valuable and naore intelli- gible by the light thrown upon Hittite chronology by recent excavation. Their nature and intrinsic details are material evidence of Hittite arts, which, in the lack of internal literary documents, no other sources can satisfactorily supply ; while their disposition defines for us the Hittite lands in a manner more reliable and more substantial than theories based on vague and difficult references in oriental history. A reason- able consideration of the environment of these monu- ments, also, may help us to appreciate something of that which is most difficult to realise but all-important, namely the circumstances of the life of those whose hands produced them.^ ' On the importance of this aspect of study, cf. Frazer, Adonis, Attis, and Osiris, in the Preface ; and Hogarth in Authority and Archceology, 2nd ed. (London, 1899), Preface, vii. 74 PLATE XXX METHOD OF STUDY: CRITERIA 75 Obedient to a now accepted principle of psychology, we follow in the development of our inquiry the sequence of evidences by which this subject has been established during the past generation. Postponing for the present any detailed account of the walled towns and groups of sculptures which have been the scene of recent investigation, we shall consider firstly those monuments which are found isolated and scattered throughout the regions indicated in the opening chapter. If, in so doing, we can yet be guided by the light of modern discoveries, we may hope to avoid some of the difficulties which beset the path of these pioneers whose work introduced to us this new material. Our method of study, like theirs, must be comparative; but we shall be content to confine ourselves almost entirely to the monuments identified as Hittite by the presence of the peculiar hieroglyphic signs or inscriptions carved upon them. It was indeed upon this line of evidence that Professor A. H. Sayce was enabled, thirty years ago, to establish the relationship of the unexplained inscriptions of Hamath with the sculptures of Kara-Bel in the far west of Asia Minor, and thence to make his brilliant inference of a forgotten empire.^ We use the test of Hittite hieroglyphs, not only because it has become in this way fundamental to our subject, but because it is no longer open to doubt whether these peculiar signs are of Hittite origin or not. Formerly there may have been room for reason- able criticism so long as this conclusion was based only on the fact that these symbols were found chiefly on unexplained monuments from Hamath and neighbouring places in Northern Syria associated in 1 Sayce, The Hittitea (London, 1888), 3rd cd., 1902, p. 67. 76 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES history with the Hittites. But now the increasing accumulation of this kind of circumstantial evidence has been crowned by the discovery that the chief site of such monuments in Asia Minor, namely Boghaz- Keui, was for two centuries the capital of the Hittites, whose name (Hatti) appears freely on the literary documents that have been unearthed ^ there in recent excavations. Being secured then against fundamental error, a comparison of the Hittite monuments identified on this basis readily reveals peculiarities of art which may be regarded as typical, so that we might reason- ably include in our category other monuments of like kind which lack only the ultimate criterion which we have set before us. We do not wish, however, nor do we need, in the scope of this volume, to press the argument by analogy, being warned against the pit- falls of such a method by several general considera- tions, and especially by the noticeable survival of Hittite influence in the local sculptures, like those of Phrygia ^ and western Lycaonia.^ Though we continue to employ the old materials, however, we see them now in a clearer light. Just as the time has passed by when the word ' Hittite ' must be written in inverted commas, or qualified with the adjec- tive 'so-called,' so now we are not content any longer to regard the older monuments of the interior together in general as pre-Hellenic, much less pre-historic, with- out distinction as to period or locality. The references ' As well as other sculptured and inscribed stones ; see Winckler : Preliminary Report of Excavations at Boghaz Keui, 1907. {Mitteilungen der Deutschen Orient-Gesellschaft, No. 35, Dec. 1907), figs. 6, 7, pp. 57, 58. - Hist. Relations of Phrygia and Cappadocia {Jour. Roy. Asiatic Soc, XV., PI. I.), p. 124. ' Perrot and Chipiez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii. etc., pp. 214 and ff. ; also Hamilton, Researches, etc., ii., pp. 350, 351; and Revue Arch., 3, v. pp. 257-264, and Pis. xi., xii. PLATE XXXI CHRONOLOGICAL BASIS 77 to the Hittites in Babylonian, Egyptian, and Assyrian history alone, it is true, would not be sufficient to establish an historical basis for this phase of our inquiry, though giving us a range of dates that covers broadly the whole of the second millennium down to the eighth century B.c.,^ but these allusions are now supplemented, and in great measure ruade intelligible, by the evidence of the Hittite archives recently discovered at Boghaz- Keui, which establish chronological relationships of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries B.c.,^ togetherwith a series of contemporary Hittite works. This date now be- comes the basis for all inquiry, bringing into line several points previously problematical and much disputed, just as the intrinsic evidence of these archives throws a new flood of light over the disposition and consti- tution of the Hittites at the very period when they figure most prorainently in the pages of Egyptian history. Other researches have contributed towards broaden- ing this basis of investigation. At Sakje-Geuzi recent ' (a) A Hittite invasion preceded tlie overthrow of the First Baby- lonian Dynasty. The date in the eighteenth century B.C. assigned by King {Chronicles, etc., i. p. 137) is accepted by Meyer, but thought by Sayce and others to be too late. (6) The Egyptian annals, diplomatic letters, mural decorations, etc., make frequent mention of the Kheta from the 33rd year of Thothmes III. (about B.C. 1471) until the time of Eameses III., early in the twelfth century B.C. There is an early appearance of the group of signs reading ' Kheta ' on a stela of the Twelfth Dynasty (Louvre, ci.) ; some philologists are disposed to regard the group in this instance as forming part of a longer word — a unique instance which implies at any rate familiarity with the word Kheta in the Twelfth Dynasty. It is more probable, Mr. GriflBth tells us, that the group is really to be translated 'Kheta' though written (under circumstances that can be explained philologically) with a false determinative. The Babylonian evidence now prepares us for this early appearance of the name, (c) In the Assyrian records the earliest reference to the Hatti seems to be in the reign of Shalmaneser i., about 1320 B.C., but the name is not found recurring until the time of Tiglath Pileser i., about 1120 B.C. : Sargon (B.C. 721-704) seems finally to have subjected and disunited their princi- palities in N. Syria. 2 Winckler, Report, cit,, especially pp. 27 and flf. 78 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES excavations^ have established the fact previously in doubt, that the settlements of Hittite peoples had begun there at any rate many centuries, possibly several thousand years, previous to the age marked by the on-coming and ultimately overwhelming tide of Assyrian influence early in the first millennium B.C. The relation of the later phase of local arts to Assyrian chronology is given by the results of excavations made on the great mound at Sinjerli, distant about a day's journey in the same valley towards the south.^ Here certain palace buildings and sculptures, some of which betray Assyrian feeling, may be dated, by help of inscribed monuments that were unearthed, to the eighth century B.C., when this principality became tributary to Tiglath Pileser iii. The reign of Esarhaddon, the conqueror of Egypt, brought even this nominal independence to an end about 680 B.C. To these revelations by the spade there should be added various contributions of the pen, which, together w^ith the old materials, make possible the study of Hittite remains upon an historical rather than a purely archaeological basis. We might indeed make some general inferences from the results of these researches, but it will be wise to keep ever in view the geographical conditions, and never to assume collateral development among the various branches of the Hittite peoples whose lands were physically so disunited. Evidence affecting one state in the north of Syria may be applied with some surety to its neighbours ; but it may not be applicable beyond the Taurus. No published accounts enable us to test the antiquity of Hittite 1 See chap, v.. Part 3, pp. 299, 314. 2 See chap, v., Part 2, pp. 271-273. PLATE XXXn HISTORICAL INFERENCE 79 settlements upon the tableland of Asia Minor, and it is doubtful if even the necessary soundings have been made. For the middle period, however, the difficulty is less, where history shows that the influence of the Hatti administered from Boghaz-Keui must have predominated in . the north of Syria, and contem- poraneity of development may therefore be inferred. But when we come to the inferior limit of date the same difficulty (the possibility of independent develop- ment) is reopened, for, in the absence of positive material evidence to the contrary, the Assyrian arms seem never to have passed the Halys even while Assyrian influences were dominant in Syria. On the other hand, as we have seen in the previous chapters, we have to take into account the possible influence of the new civilisations, like that of the Phrygians, which had meanwhile been developing upon the tableland. One thing at any rate seems clear, that no Hittite m^onuments of Asia Minor can well be later than the period of Phrygian domination in the eighth cen- tury B.C.,'^ so that in the end a general parallel is suggested with the closing dates afforded from Assyrian history. Having now considered in general terms the method and the new chronological basis of our inquiry, we come first to an account of those isolated monuments which illustrate to us the diversity of Hittite art and the wide range of its influence. The most striking of these are perhaps those carved on the living rock, which may take the form of single figures, some gigantic, others less than life-size, or groups representing deities and their ministers, accompanied in each case by Hittite hieroglyphs, or long inscriptions without any sculptures ■ See above, pp. 55, 56 ; cf. also Xenophon, Anabasis, v. 4-30. 80 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES to give a suggestion of their meaning.^ Of the move- able monuments only one is found clearly in situ^ and this from its position and nature may be thought, like some of the rock-inscriptions, to have been a boundary stone. There are others, however, of such weight^ or peculiar character'' that they maybe judged to have been set up not far from the sites where they have been found. The provenance of monuments found on or in the vicinity of ancient sites is also reliable as evidence.^ Sculptures are rarely executed in the round, except for architectural purposes,* though in one or two instances there have been found fragments of statues.'^ Reliefs however, are plentiful, mostly repre- senting mythological creatures or persons; while a distinct class, which represents a ceremonial feast or communion, seems to include some specimens of funerary character.^ Among inscribed monuments the most interesting are those stelae which show a human figure, accompanied, it would seem, by a formal biography of good works.^ Unfortunately a considerable proportion of the ' The inscriptions still largely hold their secrets. The cause would seem to be chiefly the imperfections in our copies, for Professor Sayce's system (described in the Proc. Soc. Bibl. Arch., 1904, et seqq.) has con- sistently developed geographical and local names corroborated by the circumstances of discovery. The language seems to be unlike any that is known, and to vary in localities. ^ The inscribed round-topped stone on its pedestal, on a rise of ground near Bogche, overlooking the Halys. See PI. XLViii. ^ Like the massive altar on the pass of Kuru-Bel. See p. 147. ^ E.g. the lions found near Derendeh ; the obelisk of Izgin, and the columnar figure from Palanga. See pp. 141, 145. ^ E.g. the monuments of Jerablus, the site of Carchemish ; and of Marash, the ancient Marghasi ; also those found at Emir-Ghazi near Ardistama ; or at Bor, Nigdeh, and Andaval near Ttana. " Like the lions of Sakje-Geuzi, Marash, Eyuk, etc. ' E.g. at Kurts-oghlu and Marash. See pp. 98, 11.S. * E.g. from Kara-burshlu, Sinjerli, Sakje-Geuzi, Marash, Malatia. '•' E.g. from Jerablus, Marash, etc. See the readings of Professor Sayce, Proc. S.B.A., 1904, Nov. et seqq. PLATE XXXIII NIGDEH : TOMB OF SELJOk PERIOD Traditionally the tomb of Havanda, wife of Ala-ed-din, but dated 1344 A.D. Note the desigrij tracery, and stalactite ornamentation. (Seep. 73.) CLASSIFICATION 81 inscribed blocks of stone that have been found are imperfect, so that little can be hoped from the inscrip- tions themselves. There are also a few small objects so portable, and reported from regions so exceptional, that they cannot be used as topographical evidence. Lastly, there are naturally a number of monuments simulating Hittite work which we hesitate to include without further evidence. It will be useful at this stage to give a classified list of the places where the chief Hittite monuments have been found.^ Towns and palaces are included though not discussed in this chapter ; further, classifications which are based on inference, or doubtful in any way, are denoted by square brackets, while an asterisk signifies that the Hittite origin of the monument to which it refers is problematical and unconfirmed. Other special features are pointed out in the footnotes. Walled Towns. — Boghaz-Keui, Eyuk, Sakje-Geuzi, Sinjerli. [Hgin (Kolitoghlu Yaila), Jerablus (Car- chemish), Marash.] Palaces. — Boghaz-Keui, Eyuk, Sakje-Geuzi, Sinjerli.^ [Malatia, Marash.'] FoKTRESSES. — Boghaz - Keui (Sary Kaleh, Yenije Kaleh), Giaour Kalesi, Karaburna, Kizil Dagh. Rock Carvings. — Sculptures with Inscriptions — Boghaz-Keui (lasily Kaya), Fraktin, Ivriz, Kara-Bel (Mount Tmolus), Kizil Dagh, Mount Sipylus, Tashji. Sculpture o-nZ?/— Giaour-Kalesi.* Inscriptions only — Asarjik, Boghaz-Keui (Nishan Tash), Bulghar-Maden, Gurun, Kara Dagh (Mahalich). ' These are marked upon the map, p. 390. A more detailed place-index ■ to these monuments, with a bibliography, is given in Appendix B. 2 Sculptures decorate the three last-named palaces. 3 May be inferred from analogy of sculptured blocks and locality. ■* A careful scrutiny might reveal some signs. F 82 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES Stones in situ. — Inscribed Sculpture — Kuru-Bel. Inscription only — Bogche. Moveable Stones. — Sculptures in the round — Bo- ghaz-Keui,^ Derendeh^ (and at Arslan Tash),^ Eyuk,^ Eski Yapan,'^ Kurts-oghlu,' Kuru - Bel,* Marash,^ Yamooia.^ Reliefs; mural — Aintab, Boghaz-Keui, Dog- hanlu, Malatia, Marash. [Angora (Kalaba, Yalanjak, Amaksiz Keui).] Reliefs representing a Ceremonial Feast — Kara-burshlu, Malatia, Marash, Sakje-Geuzi, Sinjerli,^ Yarre. Inscriptions accompanying human figure — Andaval, Bor, Jerablus ^ (Carchemish), Kellekli, Marash," Samsat, Tell - Ahmar. Inscriptions only — Aleppo, Alexandretta,'' Albistan (Kirch uk Yapalak), Bey-Keui, Ekrek,'^ Bmir-Ghazi,* Hamath, Ilgin (Kolito- ghlu Yaila), Izgin,* Jerablus, Karaburna, Nigdeh,* Restan, Suasa. Exceptional Districts.— Babylon, Erzerum (Kaza Passinler)," Kedabeg,'^ Toprah Kaleh. Problematical Monuments.— Eflatoun-Bunar, Fas- siler, Gerger. The first thing that strikes us in considering this list is that these monuments are all of stone. We might possibly be able to include, with suitable caution, some number of small objects of bronze or pottery, mostly in animal form, and also a number of peculiar ceramic types, including painted vases and neolithic pottery decorated in a primitive manner by incisions. But, except in the latter instances,^" these do not advance the main subject of our inquiry ; for while their - Eagle monuments, presumably Hittite. * Lion monuments, head only in the round. ^ Statuettes in the round ; at Marash, Lion monuments also. •* Altar. ' Built into the gate facade. ^ Seemingly biographical or memorial. ' Objects easily portable. * Columnar statue. " Provenance doubtful. i" Cf . below, ch. v. p. 313. PLATE XXXIV EPHESUS : MEDIEVAL FORTRESS WITH SELJOk REMAINS AT AYASOLUK KONIA : ZAZADIN HAX, OF SELJUK WORK AND STYLE (,Seet. 73.) ARGUMENT FROM DISPOSITION 83 identification with the Hittites is chiefly a matter of general inference, their provenance is nearly always doubtful. The same thing might be said unhappily of the definitely Hittite seals and kindred objects, of which several excellent specimens are on record,^ whether made of silver,^ stone,^ or ivory.* While all of these are worthy of closest study from the point of view of Hittite art and motif, yet nearly all have been found in the hands of peasants who were loath to tell the exact site of their discovery, or of town-dealers who did not know. Hence to define our Hittite land by the disposition of the monuments, we fall back largely on the works in stone, the original position of which is known or can be inferred. Doubtless at one time the surface of the ground was covered with other indications, with ruins of villages and houses where now the grass grows over indistinguishable mounds ; and doubtless also many exposed monuments must hitherto have escaped scien- tific record. Hence our argument from the disposition of the monuments should be guarded; it is positive, indeed, so far as we have evidence, but the negative case should not be urged. The durability of stone has perpetuated these monuments to us, but it is not thereby demonstrated that ^he Hittites had any ex- clusive preference for this material. And being of stone, they are most plentiful in stony regions, and rarely found upon grassy plains. We cannot expect, for instance, upon the broad pastures of Iconium any- thing analogous to the sculptures which are found in rocky Taurus, where the opportunity was all-tempting ' Messerschmidt, C.I.H. (1900), Pis. xxxix.-XLV. ^ E.g. from Bor, Recueil de Travaux, xiv. p. 88. * E.g. from Aintab, op. cit., vol. xvii. p. 26. * See below, p. 160, PI. xl. (ii). 84 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES which in the former case was lacking. It has been well said that 'if the plateau presented throughout the same character, there would be no need to seek on its surface monuments of the past. Hunters and wood- men build no cities, and arts are unknown to them.'^ Consequently, in finding a concentration of Hittite sites upon the hilly regions of the map, this fact should not be allowed to weigh disproportionately, although there is independent evidence tending to the conclusion that several branches of the Hittite peoples, particularly those of Asia Minor, were of mountain origin." With these considerations in mind, a study of the disposition of these Hittite sites upon the map^ can teach us much, notwithstanding our self-imposed restrictions. Our southerly frontier reaches to Hamath on the Orontes. Eastward our boundary is the Euphrates, flowing past Malatia, Samsat, and Jerablus. West- ward the monuments follow the inner edge of Taurus as far as the Kara Dagh, with not a single site under the southern slope of these mountains. In the north we have no clear boundary. Eyuk and Boghaz-Keui are found in the middle of the circuit of the Halys, with no places nearer than those which lie in the valley of that river. Across the river a single line of monu- ments, including Giaour-Kalesi, Yarre, Doghanlu, and Bey-Keui, seems to lead on towards the Lydian coast, to where Sipylus and Kara-Bel are found between Sardis and Smyrna. A brief consideration of the classified list of monu- ments above will reveal the fact that for description no grouping of these places is so convenient as that formed naturally by geographical divisions. The first ' Perrot in Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii. p. 83. 2 See later, p. 321. 3 To face p. 390. PLATE XXXV .,>^ v.i*t';#^«k*,| ■«■ ■'* : .'V- '■•■**' -'Ta,i^ -■■^.V.m'' v/', ^'^ >:!'.^''AS^'ii^BLI'fc;(' GEOGRAPHICAL GROUPING : SYRIA 85 main group (A) will include all the monuments of the north of Syria, in which we may recognise three separate districts. The most southerly is the Orontes valley, with which we can include Aleppo, though the latter historically would seem to have been the centre of an independent state. ^ The monuments from Hamath consist of a series of stones inscribed in relief, partly be- longing to the same inscription ; while at Aleppo there is one sniall stone of similar character. The places Restan and Homs indicated upon the map are positions of im- portance further up the Orontes, though unidentified by local remains.^ The site of Kadesh, the historical frontier fortress of the Hittites in their warfare with Egypt, is similarly now unrecognisable, but a consensus of opinion among students of the Egyptian records places it not far southward of the present lake of Homs.^ Eastward we have the monuments on the Euphrates, including numerous inscriptions, a stela, and frag- ments of sculpture, from the irregular mounds which mark the site of ancient Carchemish at Jerablus. Several carved and inscribed monuments are recently reported from Kellekli and Tell-Ahmar,* which are in the same vicinity, while further up the river there are found an inscribed and sculptured block from Samsat, and a doubtful carving on the rocks near Gerger Kalesi. The remaining monuments of the north of Syria lie towards the west, mostly in the valley of the Kara Su. ' Khalabu in Annals of Thothmes III., 33rd year; Khalman in the Assyrian records ; Khalpa in Hittite, and Haleb in Arabic. 2 Except a smiU archaic bronze figure procured from Homs (Menant: Bevue Arch., 1895, p. 31); another bronze figure and a cylinder seal of ironstone purchased at Latakia upon thecoast. (Longp^rier Musee Napol. , Pis. xxi.-xxii. ; and Amsrican Jour. Arch., 1898, p. 163, and 1899, p. 18.) Addendum : an inscription of two lines in relief has recently been found at Kestan by the Rev. Father Ronzevalli of Beyrout. ^ See, for instance, Perrot and Chipiez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii. p. 18; Breasted, The Battle of Kadesh {Chic3,go, 1903), pp. 13, etff. * See pp. 128, 130 ; and the list of monuments in Appendix B. 86 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES The mounds of Sinjerli and Sakje-Geuzi are included, wherein excavations have disclosed the ruins of sculp- tured palaces and other monuments that will be de- scribed with more detail in a later chapter. A relief with inscription comes from Kara-burshlu in the same vicinity ; while a sculptured and inscribed corner-stone of peculiar character has been found at Aintab, a little to the east. To the south of this town is Killiz, a place not marked by any peculiar remains, but the centre where numbers of bronze figures,^ seals, and other small objects of Hittite character, are commonly found in the bazaars. Lower down on the Afrin, and hence geographically contiguous, is Kurts-oghlu, whence comes a portion of a small statue carved in the round, upon which still remain two lines of incised inscription. We include Marash also in this group, though it is on higher ground at the ascent of the Taurus mountains. Here there must have been a city of importance, suggested alike in the strategic position and in the number and character of the monu- ments found upon the site. Among these are two sculptured lions (one inscribed with hieroglyphs in relief), slabs carved with reliefs depicting interesting scenes, and the lower part of an inscribed statue, as well as several blocks and fragments also inscribed. Passing northwards the monuments found in the mountain regions of Taurus and Anti-Taurus constitute our second main group (B). This embraces the district marked by the four sites in the valley of the Tochma Su, with which there may be included two others in the head-waters of the Pyramus. At Malatia there have been found several architectural blocks sculptured in relief with religious representations and hunting 1 See PI. XL. (i). TAURUS AND ANTI-TAURUS 87 scenes, most of them bearing also groups of Hittite hieroglyphs upon them. There can be no doubt that, situated like Marash in a position of great strategic importance,^ at one time on the Mitannian and later on the Assyrian frontier, this place is equally one of the more noteworthy Hittite sites. From Derendeh come an inscribed fragment of a statue and a small basaltic lion ; and from a spot called appropriately Arslan Tash, one hour distant to the south, two other lions, which are presumably architectural. At Palanga an inscribed cylindrical columnar figure has been found ; while Gurun, further up the valley, is the site of two inscrip- tions, one on the living rock and the other on an isolated block. On the southern side of the watershed an inscribed stone has been found in a cemetery at Kirchuk Yapalak, two hours distant from Albistan ; while the column or obelisk from Izgin, inscribed on four sides with hieroglyphs in relief, is an object almost as remarkable as the round column from Palanga. This group includes, as a second district, five sites in the Anti-Taurus. The most easterly is Kuru-Bel, a pass near old-time Oomana : here is one of the most striking Hittite works, resembling a great altar with lions crouching upon the top on either hand. Three places are on the main stream of the Zamanti Su : from an Armenian cemetery at Ekrek there has come a stone inscribed in incised hieroglyphs, which has been re- dressed with Christian emblems; at Tashji are two figures and an inscription incised upon the rock ; while Fraktin is famous as the site of rock-sculptures that ' Ramsay {Hist. Geog., p. 35 ; also Becueil, xv., p. 28) believes in a main eastern route passing through Malatia, and connecting with the Royal Road. The place was, of course, the site of a Roman frontier fortress. 88 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES make important additions to Hittite religious sym- bolism. Lastly, at Asarjik, on the northern slope of Mount Argaeus, overlooking Cassarea, an inscription is incised upon a broken rock, accompanied by interest- ing markings like graffiti. In our third main group (C) we include those few monuments found in or near the valley of the Halys, north-westward of Csesarea. These are a great sculp- tured eagle on a lion-base, an object not demonstrably of Hittite workmanship, on the river-bank near Yamoola ; a perfect inscription covering four sides of a round-topped stone, standing on a pedestal, over- looking the river valley on the south bank near Bogche ; thirdly, an inscription in three lines on a stone found at Karaburna, which is on the opposite bank consider- ably lower down ; and lastly, two incised inscriptions found recently at Suasa, which lies back considerably from the river, almost opposite the place last named. With the same group we class the district inside the circuit of the Halys, the monuments of which are almost confined to the famous ruins of Boghaz-Keui, with the neighbouring sculptured sanctuary of lasily Kaya, and the walled mound and palace of Eyuk, both of which are described in later chapters. There are, however, one or two features which may be appro- priately singled out for comparison in this chapter, notably the inscription in relief on the rock called Nishan Tash, on the high ground of the citadel at Boghaz-Keui, and a couple of building blocks sculptured like those of Sinjerli, Malatia, and Eyuk, recently found at the foot of the acropolis. If we may mention also two objects of doubtful provenance, these introduce a place called Eski-Yapan, on the road from Sungurlu to Chorum, where an architectural lion is built into a PLATE XXXVI THE HALYS BASIN AND THE WEST 89 modern wall/ and Denek-Maden, near to Cheshme- Keupru, where an interesting round ivory object en- graved with Hittite characters and signs has been rescued.^ We are inclined to group together all the monuments westward of the Halys (D), including with them the two famous sculptures near the Lydian coast. We thus bring together for comparison the rock carvings of Giaour-Kalesi and of Kara-Bel, which are analogous, and the dethroned Niobe seated on Mount Sipylus. In the Phrygian country there are on record an inscribed stone at Bey-Keui, and a sculpture with uncertain hieroglyphs at Doghanlu Daresi. A relief found at Yarre, representing a ceremonial feast, conforms with a definite class of Hittite sculptures found elsewhere on the several sites mentioned in the list above. The same may be said, though with less confidence, of carved slabs found in the vicinity of Angora, representing lions, but we exclude the sculptured lion to be seen near the bridge at Cheshme Keupru. The remarkable thing about the disposition of these monuments, excluding the reliefs at Angora, is that they seem to mark out the line of a single road, namely the Royal Road from Boghaz-Keui to Sardis and the west.^ The only reasonable doubt seems to be as to the route from Giaour-Kalesi to Boghaz-Keui, about which there is no evidence. Some students of the local topography think it must have gone by way of Angora, in spite of the tradition (which in the absence of evidence becomes of interest) that Angora was a comparatively late Phrygian foundation.* 1 Liverpool Annals of Arch., i. p. 9. 2 Ibid., -p. 11, and PL xiv., fig. 1. See below, PI. XL. (ii). ' See above, p. 38, and Ramsay, Historical Geography of Asia Minor, pp. 30, 31. * Pausanias, i. Iv. 5. 90 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES Others urge^ that it was improbable that the road 'swerved southwards to Giaour-Kalesi,' an opinion seemingly forgetful of the road's objective.^ The district westward of Iconium, in which are found the Lycaonian-Hittite monuments of Eflatoun-Bunar and Fassiler, stands by itself. But as there is only one clearly Hittite object from this region, namely a stone inscribed with hieroglyphs in relief, from near Kolit- oghlu Yaila, near Ilgin, w^e include this with the main western group. We now come to the fifth and last group (E) of these arbitrary divisions, which includes nine sites and several of the most important monuments.^ It embraces the whole of the south-western range of Taurus from the Kara Dagh to Bulghar Dagh, as well as the districts at its foot, of which in classical times Eregli (Cybistra) Arissama (Ardistama) and Kilisse Hissar (Tyana) were the more important centres. The monuments recently discovered on the Kara Dagh might indeed have been regarded as a group apart ; but as this district shares in the geographical economy of the others, and is a spur of the main Taurus range, we prefer to class them with the rest. They are found in two places, firstly, near Mahalich, on the summit of the Kara Dagh, where there are two inscriptions in relief and a passage in the rock ; and secondly, on the outlying knoll called Kizil Dagh, on which are the remains of a ' high place,' including a rock-throne and an incised seated figure with three inscriptions ; while on the very summit there are the ruins of a fortress, and an inscription in relief upon the rock. The monument of Ivriz, 1 Journal Hellenic Studies, xix., Part i., 1899, p. 50. 2 Or perhaps discrediting it. Cf. J.H.S. loc. cit., p. 45, at the top. ■* Our relatively large material for this region is mostly due to the con- sistent researches of Professor Sir William Ramsay and his school. THE SOUTH-EASTERN DISTRICT 91 above Eregli, is well known ; it is a gigantic and im- posing sculpture of the god of fertility (by whatever name he may be known) with the local priest-king in adoration ; three short inscriptions accompany the scene. The traces of a second sculpture of similar character are to be found not far above.^ At Bulghar- Maden, on the other side of a lofty ridge, an incised inscription of five lines is graved upon the living rock. These two monuments seem to have been connected in some way with Tyana, in the vicinity of which several inscribed stelae and sculptures have been found. That from Bor, discovered in two portions which were rescued at different times, is the best of these ; and an interesting fragment remains at Eski Andaval, where jealousies and suspicions prevent it from being seen. Nigdeh contributes an incised altar of round shape. From Tyana itself nothing is reported, but the anti- quity of the site is unquestioned, and its known monu- ments reach back to the time of a Phrygian Midas.^ In this district, particularly at Bor, nunaerous small objects of great interest have been secured, and there is little reason to doubt but that they were found originally not far away.^ Further west, in the desert tract of the eastern extremity of the great salt plains, there are the ruins of Ardistama ; and in the vicinity, near Emir Ghazi, there have been found in late years an inscription in relief, and three others on round altars. These are included in the same group on account of their geographical proximity. Now that we have completed this preliminary survey 1 Kamsay, Luke the Physician, p. 174, footnote. 2 See above, p. 56, and PI. xxv. 3 This uncertainty, however, forbids us to use their provenance as evidence, though in themselves objects with special features of interest. 92 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES of the disposition of such Hittite monuments as by their character or the circumstances of their discovery- may be accepted by us as evidence in our inquiry, we realise naore clearly the reason for the distinction we made in an earlier chapter between the eastern and western portions of Asia Minor. In the West we can speak of only nine monuments, of which four are not of Hittite origin. Six of these seem to lie along the line of a single road ; and of the others, only one is inscribed with Hittite characters, and even that is moveable and not found in its original position. If only by contrast with this paucity, the comparative frequency of monu- ments towards the East, and their definite character, naturally inclines us to assign some tentative boun- daries to the Hittite country. In the North this is not difficult; the Halys River remained in the time of Croesus a division between peoples of different race,^ and Sir William Ramsay has pointed out ^ differences in important racial customs between the peoples of the two banks in ancient times. But to the south there is no such boundary ; even the great plains, which form so prominent a landmark in the map, seem to be more barren now than in the days when Ardistama flourished.^ This change is illus- trated by the western extension of the monuments along the foot of the Taurus and in the desert. We must not forget, also, that whole tracts are eliminated from our purview from absence of stone ; nor should we allow ourselves to be prepossessed with the idea of divisions on the tableland, which is, after all, continuous and coterminous. If it is true that nearly ' Herodotus, i. 76, and i. 72 ; see also above, pp. 21, 22. 2 Ramsay, Historical Geography of Asia Minor (London, 1890), p. 32 . ^ Professor Ramsay points out the neglected irrigation works, Lu ke the Physician, p. 129. MONUMENTS OF NORTH SYRIA 93 all the evidences of Hittite occupation in the west re- solve themselves into monuments erected along a single road, it is also true that if we exclude from our view the group of remarkable monuments at Boghaz-Keui and Eyuk, there remains little sign that the country within the circuit of the Halys was indeed at any time Hittite territory, much less that it enclosed their northern capital. In face of such considerations the great sculptures and fortress of Giaour-Kalesi, the carvings of Doghanlu, the inscription and tumulus of Bey-Keui, and most striking of all, the sculptures of the west on Mount Sipylus and in the pass of Kara-Bel, as well as those monuments in Phrygia and Western Lycaonia which at least reflect the influence of Hittite art, become imbued with a relative importance not to be overlooked in our inquiry. The land of the Hittites is for us as broad as the extent of their works : it is for another phase of our subject to inquire whether there is evidence to tell us how and when their territory was acquired, and for how long it remained in their power. Section A.— Monuments of the North of Syria. HAMATH, BESTAN, ALEPPO ; KURTS-OGHLU (ALBXAN- DRETTA), SINJERLI, KABA-BURSHLU, SAKJE-GEUZI; aintab (killiz), marash; jerablus, kellekli, tbll-ahmar, samsat, rum kali (gerger). The town of Hamath has grown up where the main road from the north enters the Orontes valley. This river, in characteristic fashion, flows for the most part deep below the level of the surrounding plains; and 94 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES Hamath is found at a spot where the banks widen out, so that the town is in a hollow, almost surrounded by escarpments formed of the steep banks and the broken edges of the plain. Though picturesque, the position in general can have had little strategic importance, even in antiquity, being overlooked and exposed. Hence it probably came into being in Hittite times as an im- portant halting-place upon the main road through Syria, and as a natural centre for the surrounding agricultural districts. The original Hittite stronghold would seem to have been more strongly placed ; this probably covered the broad-topped mound ^ which marks, in the manner so familiar in old Syrian towns, the beginnings of the site. Doubtless this would be surrounded at a certain stage with a wall, as was the fashion of those days ; and later, on the analogy of Sinjerli, the population overspread the limits of the enclosure, and so settled in times of quiet on the tempt- ing ground at the foot of the acropolis. In this de- velopment, and in the nature of its situation, Hamath shares largely the general features of many Syrian sites. Being (even now) somewhat out of the way of European travellers, it is curious that numerous in- scriptions should have been noticed here, while a famous historical site like Kadesh remains unidentified, and a strong natural position like Restan was until recently without record of Hittite occupation.^ Whatever may be the explanation, as early as 1812 a black basaltic block built into the corner of one of the houses in a bazaar attracted the eye of a famous ^ Thought by Miss Gertrude Bell to have been artificially separated from the ridge, of which it seems like a projecting headland. See The Desert and the Sown (liondou, 1905), p. 223. The same work may be con- sulted for modern interests of this remarkable Arab town. So also Tyke, Dar el Islam (London, 1907). 2 See p. 8^, note 2 (addendum); and Sayce in Proc. S.B.A. (1909), p. 259. PLATE XXXVII HAMATH : INSCRIPTION IN THREE LINES OF HITTITE HIEROGLYPHS CARVED IN RELIEF, ONE OF THE SO-CALLED 'HAMATHIC' INSCRIPTIONS (See i>. 95.) The photograph is taken from a paper impression. HAMATH : THE INSCRIPTIONS 95 traveller ^ by reason of the strange-looking hieroglyphic signs upon it. Sixty years later other stones came to light ; " some were built into the modern walls, others lay loose. All were regarded with veneration Dy the inhabitants,^ and it was with great difficulty that they were removed, in 1872, to a place of safety by the Turkish Governor through the energetic initiation of Dr. Wright, supported by the British Consul. The inscriptions are five in number,* whereof two are on adjacent sides of the same block of stone. The first was found in the wall of a house ; it measures nearly 15 inches in height and 13 inches in length.' The inscription is in three lines ; and it begins at the top right-hand side, with the symbol of the human arm and head, with finger touching the lips, a sign which indicates the beginning of a first personal de- claration. Other hieroglyphics may be readily recog- nised in the photograph. The yoke which has the phonetic value of our letter S is thrice repeated in the lower part of the line ; while towards the end there is seen the hand and fore-arm, marked off by the smaller • Burckhardt, Travels in Syria and the Holy Land, (London 1822), p. 149. 2 For the progress and vicissitudes of the attempts to obtain a record of the Hamath stones, consult Wright, The Empire of the Hittites; Burton, Unexplored Syria, and the Quarterly Statements of the Palestine Exploration Fund (1871-2-3) ; and for a connected account, Sayce, The Hittites (1905) ; pp. 60-64. ' One in particular, which was long, had virtues for the rheumatic, who stretched themselves upon it. The Aleppo stone was regarded as eflTecti ve for ophthalmia ; and some superstition clings to nearly all such remains when they have long been known to village communities. In Egypt any monuments of stone, even a stela newly found but of guaranteed antiquity, is particularly sought out by barren women, who seem to have a definite formula and ritual to observe— one of these acts is to cross and recross the stone, if possible, seven times each way without turning the eyes to right or left. * C.I.H. (Mitteilungen, etc., 1900, 5), Pis. ra. B; iv. A, B ; v., vi., and text (1900, 4), pp. 6-8. Also Wright, op cit.. Pis. i.-iv., pp. 139-141. ^ Being a characteristic specimen and of historical interest we re- produce this monument in PI. xxsvii. 96 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES word-dividing signs above and below, which in this grouping seems to express some attribute of lordship,' as ' mighty ' or ' powerful.' On the analogy of other hieroglyphic systems, the signs face always towards the comm^encement of the inscription. In this way the character of Hittite inscriptions may be recognised as boustrophedon, turning alternately in direction with the successive rows, like oxen ploughing in a field. The second row in this ease must be read then towards the right. The most noticeable sign is the royal head- dress, which is conical and drawn always with a mid- rib.^ This symbol is an ideograph meaning king. Below the first example of this sign there occurs the freely used determinative of a locality ; it is oval in shape, and is to be distinguished by details from a similar symbol indicating sanctity or divinity, which is seen commonly at the top of the groups of signs which seem to name individuals in the sculptures.^ There seems to be little variation between the texts of this inscription and two others from the same place.* Of these, No. 2 is an inscription likewise in three lines, lacking only a few signs at the end. The stone measures nearly 20 inches in length by 15 inches in height ; it was found built into the wall of a garden. The inscribed end of the third stone (that which was looked on as possessed with virtue for the rheumatic), is only just 11 inches in height, with a width the same as in the former instance. There are two lines of in- 1 Sayce, Proc. S.B.A., 1903, March. ^ This feature distinguishes this sign from the determinative of a district, represented as a conical hill, ^ See for example the groups of symbols accompanying the divine figures at Boghaz-Keui, Pis. lxv., lxii. ' A reading of No. 1 was tentatively put forward by Sayce, Proc. S.B.A. (1903), p. 354; but this must be revised in the light of the new read- ing of No. 2, and the note on one of the signs of No. 1, in Proc. S.B.A., 1905, Nov., p. 218. ALEPPO: AN INSCRIPTION 97 scription preserved. The largest stone of all was found built into the corner of a small shop ; its height is just over 2 feet, and its length 3 feet in front. It is cubical, with a thickness or depth of at least 15 inches. It was probably a corner-stone in antiquity also, for it is in- scribed on the front and on the left-hand side.^ The signs, as in the other cases, are in relief. The inscrip- tion is not continuous around the corner, for in front are five rows, which begin to read from the right, while by the side are four rows only, beginning from, the left. The depth of the rows is the same in each case. The face inscription is considerably rubbed and damaged, and a portion of the last line missing ; while the edges of the side-inscription are also rubbed away.^ The one monument of Aleppo ' is a single panel of in- scription carved in relief upon a block of basalt, nearly 2 feet 6 inches long, and 1 foot 6 inches high. When seen originally it was built into the south wall of an old mosque, and was regarded with special superstition by the native people, who ascribed to it powers of curing ophthalmia. The smooth-rubbed nature of the surface of the stone may be partly ascribed to the devotions of the afflicted, who were wont to rub their aifected eyes upon it. When attention was drawn to the character and archaeological importance of this monument, it was hastily removed, and reported as broken. Rather more than twenty years later, however, it was ref ound,* • Cf. the Aintab stone below, p. 107, and PI, xli. Also the corner-stones in situ at Eyuk, Pis. Lxxii., Lxxiii. 2 These monuments are now to be seen at Constantinople, in the Ottoman Museum. (Nos. 831, 832, etc.) 2 C. I. H., PI. III. A, Text, p. 4 (Mitteilungen, etc., 1900, 4, 5), and Proc. 5.B.i.,T. (1883), p. 146. * By the Liverpool Expedition of 1907. See Liv. Annals of Arch., i. p. 8, PI. IX., 3 ; and cf. Proc. S.B.A., June 1908. For three uninscribed but presumably Hittite sculptures from Aleppo, see Liv. Annals, ii. p. 184, and PI. XLII. G 98 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES built again into the wall of a mosque, and a new photo- graph was obtained. The signs are too worn to tran- scribe with certainty, and the inscription is too in- complete to be of much present use for comparative study. It is remarkable that no other Hittite monu- ments from Aleppo have been recorded. Possibly the reason is that the fine mediaeval Turkish castle now completely covers the bold acropolis which was probably the position of the stronghold in Hittite times.^ There is rumour of other inscriptions in the masonry of the keep, and in the town, but nothing has yet come to light. We pass now westward towards the ancient lands of Wan. From here only one monument is recorded,^ but that is of peculiar interest, being part of a sculpture in the round. This was found in a large rubbish-mound at Amk near Kurts-oghlu, a village not far from the Gindarus of Roman times upon the Afrin. It is now in the Berlin Museum.^ It consists of the lower part of a statue, which must have represented a somewhat stolid person standing, clad in long skirt, below which the toes protrude. The inscription is incised in two rows around the front and sides of the skirt at the bottom, beginning from behind the right-hand side. The space not inscribed behind is filled with four vertical folds, descending from the waist, which seems to be encircled with a belt. The upper part of the body is broken away, but it seems to have been clad in a garment which reached down, in front and behind, to the waist and descended lower over the thighs ; but the upper part is all broken away, leaving only the position of one elbow, which was bent. The height of the preserved portion of the statue is 16 inches, and width ' See PI. XXXVIII., to face. 2 c.I.H. (1900), PI. vii. and p. 8, 3 Vorderasiatische Abteilung, No. 3009, PLATE XXXVIII ;i KURTS-OGHLU : KARA-BURSHLU 99 at the bottom 10^ inches. Dr. Messerschmidt notes with regard to the inscription that an attempt seems to have been made to add a third line, which was aban- doned possibly owing to lack of room, and the signs added were then effaced with cross-lines. It remains probable, none the less, that these extra words were essential to complete the sense of the inscription.^ Northward lies Sinjerli, the centre of old-time Shamal, in the valley of the Kara Su, uzider the eastern slopes of Mount Amanus. Here one of the numerous mounds in this locality has been excavated, and disclosed the site of a walled town surrounding an acropolis which was separately enclosed. Within were palaces, or Hildni, of different building periods, and decorated like the gates of the citadel and tow^n with sculptures of vary- ing character. Several inscriptions, from the dated evidence upon them and their relative positions, added to the archaeological value of these discoveries, which will be found described in greater detail in Chapter V. An hour northward from Sinjerli is the village of Kara-burshlu, at the foot of Mount Amanus, and on the way from one of the chief local descents from the mountains called significantly Arslan Boghaz (Lion Gorge). Above this village there towers a steep knoll, on the summit of which an interesting carved monu- ment was found by members of the first Berlin expedition to Sinjerli.^ The subject of the relief is a Ceremonial Feast, similar in its general features to ' Mitteilungen der Vorderasiatischen Gesellschaft, 1900, pt. 4, p. 8. There is another inscribed object coming from this region now in the museum at Alexandretta, but it seems to have come originally from Marash. It is a small stone inscribed on both sides, of which one is flat and the other convex. The four rows of hieroglyphs in relief are preserved on either side, while portions of a fifth are visible, for a part of the object is broken away. Its width is 9^ inches, and the height of what is preserved 14 inches (ibid., loc. cit.). 2 C.I.H. (1900, 5), PI. XXVI. 1, 2, and do. (1900, 4), p. 20. 100 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES others observed in the locality at Sinjerli,^ Sakje-Geuzi, Marash, and Malatia, and in Asia Minor at Boghaz- Keui (lasily Kaya) and at Yarre, but rendered im- portant through certain variations. For it seems to have been inscribed on both sides and on the top; while, below, part of a pedestal remains, on which it must have been designed to stand.^ Thus it could not have been intended for a building stone, nor is there any suggestion that it was an old stone re-used. Its height is 3 feet 7 inches, its width 3 feet; and the pedestal is preserved to a length of about 5 inches with a width of 18 inches. Unfortunately the stone was found in a poor state of preservation, and could not be moved, so that we have to rely chiefly on sketches and impressions taken on the spot by the discoverers. These, however, were executed with great skill, and it is the fault rather of the condition of the monument, and of our unfamiliarity with the writing, that more of the inscription cannot be made out. As it is, only part of four rows from the right-hand side have been published; but there seem to have been originally six rows on each side and at least one row on the top. The letters are all incised. The sculpture is in relief, and represents two figures seated on either side of a low table, similar to one another and vis-di-vis. The hair of the one seems to be short, and of the other curled. Their shoes turn upwards at the toe. Their robes are long and fringed, reaching to the ankles, and 1 The illustration of the Sinjerli scene, PI. Lxxv., explains thesubject in general: only at Sakje-Geuzi one of the figures is standing, in the other cases both are seated. ^ Compare in shape and subject the 'gravestone of an Aramaic Queen,' eighth century B.C., Berlin Museum (Vorderasiatische Abteilung, No. 2995). The shape corresponds also with that of the monument from Samsat (below, p. 130); and of the stela of Nabonidus from Mujelibeh now at Constantinople, published by Scheil, Recueil de Travaux, xviii. 1, 2 (Paris, 1896). THE CEREMONIAL FEAST 101 there is a belt (partly at least) around the waist. Each raises the further hand with something in it to the level of the mouth. The nearer elbow is drawn back in a natural position, and a staff is suggested in the hand. The chairs are square cornered and straight legged, twice as high as broad, with spindles to match, and low backs, the upper bars of which are thicker and rounded behind. The table is of familiar shape, rather squeezed in the drawing. The top seems to be round, and the curved legs (which are probably three in number) cross about two-thirds of their height, forming a tripod. The feet of the legs are ornamented, probably but not clearly, as animals' feet. Upon the table are five flat circular objects (if we interpret the perspective of the drawing rightly) like native loaves of bread, and upon them are two small pear-shaped objects more difficult to define. The class of sculpture to which this monument belongs is to be distinguished in our opinion from that in which one of the personages represented is clearly more exalted than the other,^ hence presum- ably the lord or master to whom a servant ministers ; whereas in these, the persons seem to be on an equality, and both share in the feast. The suggestion of a 'funerary feast '^ as an explanation of these sculptures seems most natural, but the difficulty in accepting this arises from the fact that at Sinjerli the stone in question forms part of a mural decoration, and others of those mentioned seem to be clearly architectural blocks. This difficulty might be explained away by the compromise that the scenes were origin- ' Such as are to be seen at Sakje-Geuzi and in one instance at MarasJi. ^ Unfortunately there seem to have been no soundings made for a much- wanted Hittite necropolis. On the possible evolution of the motive in general, see below, p. 357. 102 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES ally commemorative of some religious institution of a funerary character, though not actually tombstones.^ One of the most interesting monuments of this kind is found at Sakje-Geuzi, which lies in the same valley as Sinjerli, about a day's journey to the north-east. The route passes through a gap in a low ridge which divides the valley transversely and forms a natural boundary between the two districts. Recent excavations ^ have unearthed in one of the mounds at Sakje-Geuzi the outline of a walled citadel and the foundations of a palace with portico sculptured in characteristic fashion. These buildings we describe with those of Sinjerli and Eyuk in a later chapter; but there are one or two surface monuments of this site that may appropriately be mentioned now. One of these is the relief in question.^ The stone was found in the marshy ground at the foot of the mound called Jobba Eyuk. The stone is preserved to a height of 27 inches, and is probably a decorative building slab, brought down in modern times from the mound. The carving is very weathered, but its main features may be readily made out. The figure on the left is seated, with hands stretched out towards the table; while that on the opposite side stands facing the other, with hands forward as though in the act of serving.* The dresses seem to be long robes ; that of the standing figure may be bordered or fringed. ' On this point see p. 357, and of. Jensen, Hittiter und Armenier (Strassburg, 1898), p. 166 ; and Crowfoot, Jour. Hell. Stud., xix., pp. 42, 43. 2 Liv. Annals of Arch., i. pp. 97-117, and Pis. xxxiii.-iLix. 5 Publ. in Liv. Annals of Arch., i. PI. XLV., and pp. 101-2. There is a cast at the Liverpool Institute of Archaeology. * Cf. the monuments of this class from Marash, described below, and the stela of Nerab, a Phoenician monument of the ninth century B.C. (of which a good photograph is published by Ball, Light from the East, to face p. 236). These sculptures should be compared with representations of shrines, or offerings at the altar, like the reliefs at Fraktin, PI. XLVii. (Recueil de Travaux, xiv., PI. vi., and Chantre, Mission en Cappadoce, PI. XXIII.); also a scene at Eyuk, PI. Lxxiii. (i). SAKJE-GEUZI : CEREMONIAL FEAST 103 The hair of the seated figure ends in a bunched curl.^ The chair is straight-legged as before, only the back is higher, and while curving very slightly backwards does not thicken but rather tends to taper. The table is better drawn than in the last instance; the curve and crossing of the legs is more clear; but the third leg is shown in each case stopping short at the junction, possibly because the artist thought the curve took it out of the plane of the sculptures. The objects upon the table cannot be identified : the one which seems to be proffered by the left hand of the standing figure is round and set upright ; the other is small and T-shaped. Another monument not found in situ, and no longer at Sakje-Geuzi, was removed to Berlin^ some years ago from the walls of the Konak, or chief's house, in the village. It consists of three sculptured stones, obviously part of a mural decoration, but forming in themselves a complete group. The subject depicted is a royal lion hunt.^ The king or priest dynast is marked out by a winged disk near to his head ; he rides in a two-horsed chariot, which is driven by a companion. The horses, like the men, are clad in mail ; jaunty tassels hang from their sides and shoulders. The car is small and seemingly open at the back; a quiver for arrows is hung up on each side, as well as an implement which seems like a javelin. The tires of the wheels are thick, and there are eight spokes. The two figures standing within the chariot are clad exactly alike, in long mail robes with short sleeves that do not reach the elbow. Both are without other ' Cf. the similar sculpture from Marash, p. Ill, and C.I.H. (1900, 5), PI. XXII., and from Malatia, below, p. 135. 2 Vorderasiat. Mus., No. 971. ^ PI. XXXIX.; ct. also Unmann andPnchstein, Eeisen 171 Kleinaeienund Nord Syrien (Berlin, 1890): Atlas, PI. XLVI. Perrot and Chiplez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii. p. 64, and fig. 279. 104 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES headgear than their copious hair or wig, which is arranged in long parallel curls over the head; their beards also are dressed in pendent curls in the Assyrian style. The face of the warrior is partly hidden by that of him who drives, but the visible characteristics are the same. The eye is rendered in full, while the some- what aquiline nose and prominent lips are in profile. The similarity of these two figures is somewhat strik- ing ; possibly, on the Egyptian analogy, it is the king's son who drives. He holds the reins in his two hands, a pair in each, while in his right he seems to grasp also a short-stocked whip. The figure seen partly behind, which we take for the monarch, is portrayed in the act of shooting. The short bow is drawn to the back of the neck, and the middle part of the weapon, held by the outstretched left hand, together with the long point of the arrow, is seen protruding from before the face of the nearer figure. His quarry is a noble lion which is seen immediately in front of the chariot horses. A third figure in the background here inter- venes, being partly hidden by the forelegs of the horses and the hind parts of the lion. He is clad only in a short tunic from the waist ; the garment has apparently a seam vertically down the front, and the fold, which is fringed or bordered, falls transversely over the right thigh. His feet are shod in sandals.^ The face of this person is not well preserved, but his hair is short and very curly. In his right hand an implement resembling a double axe is poised aloft, while with his left he still grasps a spear, the point of which protrudes from the near flank of the lion. The beast itself is shown also in profile ; the tail with bushy tip is down ; the ' Cf. the similar composition of anotlier sculpture from the same site. Liv. Annals, i. (1908), PI. xv., fig. 2. SAKJE-GEUZI : THE LION HUNT 105 mane and ruffle are depicted, and the hair is shown full behind the shoulder and under the belly.^ The mouth is open, with the teeth all bared, and the left paw is upraised with the claws turned outwards, both actions threatening a fourth person who with face turned towards the group completes the scene. With both hands this man drives home a spear into the skull or left shoulder of the animal. He is clad like the riders in the chariot in a long suit of mail, with short sleeves. In this case the lower part of the garment may be seen, which in the others is hidden by the side of the chariot : it is cut away from above the knees, though falling behind nearly to the ankles. There is a belt around the waist as before ; the sandals have flat soles, while toe-piece and ankle-strap are clearly delineated. The head-dress of this person is peculiarly interesting. While perpetuating the form of the conical hat it seems to look more clearly like a helmet. This may, however, be an illusion, as there is a border around the brow, and the appearance of a turnover fold which reaches down the side from the peak. Over the back of the animal, between the spears of the two standing figures, there appear four rosettes of twelve petals each ; while the upper and lower borders of the stones are decorated also with a pattern composed of con- tiguous concentric circles. The height of these slabs is nearly four feet, which accords with the measure of other stones of similar character and decoration found upon one of the mounds of this site.^ Together these form a series of pronounced Assyrian feeling, and obviously of later date^ than the palace-portico recently unearthed. 1 Cf. the lion of Marash, PI. XLii., and the newly found lion of Sakje- Geuzi, PI. Lxxix. ^ cf. Liv. Annals, i. (1908), Pis. xxxiv. 2, xxxv. 2. ' Attributed by Puchstein, Pseudo-hethitische Kunst (Berlin, 1890), to the age of Sargon. 106 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES From Sakje-Geuzi a difficult mountain track leads over the Qurt Dagh to Kartal, crossing the head- waters of the Afrin, and, following the wild upper valley of that river to Karadinek, passes thence under the curve of the basalt plateau to Killiz. The distance in time is much the same as the better road by way of Aintab, being two days' journey in either case, but the scenery and interests of the former route are unparalleled in Northern Syria. At Killiz various small objects have been from time to time bought in the bazaars, such as stone seals and small bronze figures. Two of the latter we illustrate here,^ but it is not certain that they are of Hittite origin. Their archaic appearance, however, the range of country and localities in which this class of objects are found, and several other considerations, render the suspicion a probability.^ Aintab, one day's march eastward from Sakje-Geuzi, lies at the juncture of two main routes, the one from Cilicia eastward across the Euphrates, the other from Marash southward by Killiz to Aleppo. It is somewhat surprising therefore that there is no further evidence of Hittite handiwork forthcoming than a single granite corner-stone. This is a cubical block,^ about twenty inches in height, inscribed on the one face and sculptured on the adjoining side to the right. 1 PI. XL. (i). From Ziv. Annals, i. (1908), figs. 2, 3, PI. XIV. ^ Cf. inter alia Chantre, Mission en Cappadoce, PI. xxiv. ; also (Bez- zenberger unci) Peiser, Die bronze Figur von Schernen (Sitzungsher. der Altertunisges. Prussia, Heft 22), where the distribution of this class of bronze figure is thoroughly examined. Among the sites of Asia Minor there appear Yuzgat, Angora, Amasia, Karashehr, Iconium, and ten unnamed places of Cappadocia. On the Syrian side, Marash and Homs and the Lebanon region are noticeable. The distribution thus includes many Hittite sites, but not exclusively, ' PI. XLi. ; cf. Liv. Annals Arch., i. (1908), Pis. X., XI., p. 8, and flg. p. 7. Several important small objects have been secured at Aintab. PLATE XL KILLIZ : BRONZE FIGURES. {See p. 106.) DENEK MADE.N ; IVORY SEAL. (_See p. 160.) KILLIZ AND AINTAB 107 It is clearly an architectural piece, for neither sculpture nor inscription is completed on the single stone ; yet it should be mentioned that in the palace buildings of Sakje-Geuzi, Sinjerli, and Eyuk in no case has an inscription been found built into the walls which are decorated with sculptures. Recently at Malatia, and at Boghaz-Keui, sculptured blocks have been found on the face of which are hieroglyphic signs, as may be seen in situ at Eyuk ; but in no case is an inscription found built into a wall. We feel inclined to regard this stone therefore as part of another class of structure, like a built-up hero-monument or shrine.^ The inscription is in three panels, of which the middle one is complete and enclosed by a border ; the lowest is lacking only in the left-hand corner at the bottom, while the uppermost is suggested only by traces of the lowest signs within it. A religious character is suggested in the reading of the middle panel tentatively offered by Professor Sayce: 'This (monument) erect- ing to the god of my country.' The sculptured side is equally problematical. That which remains shows the right leg of a man from thigh to knee. The dress seems to be a short tunic, the lowest edge of which seems to be curled up behind. The position of the leg and dress suggest several points of interest in attempt- ing a restoration of the attitude. The figure must have been about life-size, and posed for action with left leg forward; not running but rather walking quickly, or possibly hurling a spear, with the muscles of the leg strung up to give the final impetus to the throw. Marash lies one day's journey northwards of Ain- ' Cf. the monument recently discovered at Marash, described below, pp. 114 ff. 108 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES tab: it is a considerable town placed at the descent from the Taurus on sloping ground well above the plain and 2500 feet above the sea. We have seen that it has played a considerable part in local history, as follows from its important position at the junction of several main routes ; and to judge from the remains that have been found there, it must have been in earlier times one of the more important centres of the Hittites. As in the parallel cases of Aleppo and Hamath, probably the conical knoll to the west of the town, crowned by the remains of the mediaeval and earlier fortifications, marks the original village ' tell,' which, like the mounds of Sakje-Geuzi, began to grow with the first settlements of Hittites upon the spot. Into an arched stone gateway on this acropolis there had been built two sculptured lions of Hittite workmanship, one of them, indeed, freely inscribed with Hittite characters. Originally the two lions had unquestionably guarded the entrance to a palatial building, forming the corner-pieces of the lowest course ; ^ but in later times they had been poised aloft in the masonry as mei'e ornaments.^ Though these are perhaps the most striking objects from this place, several other monuments are on record, the interest of which is enhanced by their variety of character and detail.^ These include a slab sculptured with the representation of a Ceremonial Feast, similar to those of Kara-burshlu and Sinjerli, but with the addition of Hittite hieroglyphs upon the sculptured face. There is also the body of a small statue with a con- siderable part of the sculpture preserved, and a stela 1 As at Sakje-Geuzi. See PI. Lxxviii. 2 Perrot and Chipiez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii., fig. 268. ^ Humann and Puchstein, Beisen, etc.. Atlas, PJs. xlvh.-xlis. PLATK XLI AINTAU ; INSCRIPTION UI'ON SCULI'TUHEU CKANITE CORNER-STONE (,Scef. 107.) MARASH: LION CORNER-STONE 109 with carved figure and long incised inscription. Several other sculptures may be unhesitatingly in- cluded in the list, though without Hittite hieroglyphs upon them. One of these is a fragment showing a woman seated with a child on her knee, holding in her left hand a lyre upon which is perched a bird. Another is also broken, but the figure of a man serv- ing at a table is preserved, and there is clear sugges- tion of a greater figure on the opposite side. Below, in an ill-drawn scene, a man holding a spear is repre- sented leading a horse.^ Recently a fine monumental piece has been added to the list, consisting of a cubical block of stone carved on the four sides, with inscrip- tion in this case as well as a human figure in relief. There are also various fragmentary inscriptions which have been longer known. There can be no doubt but that Marash was a royal seat of even greater import- ance than those at Sinjerli and Sakje-Geuzi. The first object of this list, the inscribed lion, is well known, and has several times been published in illus- tration. We reproduce a photograph of its profile,^ which is the most typical and interesting point of view. Its architectural nature is evident, and is entirely accordant with that of the lions found in situ at Sakje- Geuzi.^ It must have stood at the left hand as the decorative corner-stone of a palatial portico, with its fellow lion in the corner opposite. The place on the back prepared for the reception of an upper course of masonry may be seen, and the relative alignment of both walls may be inferred. The fore-quarters and head of the lion stood out from the wall, and these are ' Other sculptured fragments are described on pp. 118-122. 2 PI. xLii. from a photo of the Imperial Ottoman Museum at Con- stantinople, by courtesy of H. E. Hamdy Bey. 3 Below, Pis. XXXVIII., Lsxix. no MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES sculptured in the round ; the rest of the body is in relief. The treatment obeys the now familiar canon, though not carried out in detail : the ruffle of the neck and hairy belly are suggested ; the tail curls under, and is seen between the tTv^o hindlegs. Only one fore- leg is seen in profile, in contradistinction to the familiar Assyrian representations. In this case, however, detail of execution is sacrificed to the long inscription, which uniquely covers the body and even the legs of the animal as well as the spaces between them. The hieroglyphs are deliberate and well cut; the basaltic nature of the rock probably accounts for their super- ficial roughness, especially in view of the great number of signs carved on a really small surface ; for the object is much less than life-size, being only 17 inches high, 35 inches long, and just over 10 inches thick.^ From the rendering of the inscription by Professor Sayce,^ it would appear to have been carved by the Hittite king of the district, who united the priestly dignities with his office, as we should expect from the accounts of Strabo in parallel cases.^ There are several striking points developed by this transla- tion, which though unconfirmed commands our interest and respect. The king claims for himself amongst other attributes to be 'the dirk-bearer* powerful,' ' citizen of Merash,' ' priest of Merash,' ' royal lord of these lands, king of the lands of the god,' ' who pro- vides food for the sanctuary,' ' of the men of the corn land the chief,' ' seated on the throne of Kas.' He also 1 The original is now at Constantinople Museum, No. 840 ; a cast may be seen in the British Museum. 2 Proc. Soc. Bibl. Arch. 1905, Nov., p. 225. 3 i'.gi. atComanaof Pontus, Strabo, xir. iii. 32; ibid., and of Cappadocia, where the priest was second in rank, ibid., xii. li. 3; also at Pessinus, ibid., XII. vi. 3. * Cf, the sculpture No. 72 at lasily Kaya, PI. Lxx., and p. 228; also p. 360, PLATE XLII MARASH : CEREMONIAL FEAST 111 claims to ' have nourished the sanctuary of the Hittite . . ■ the god's high place,' and to ' have made a high place for the dancers ' for the celebration of religious rites. The Assyrian name of Marash was Markhasi, which seems to take the form Ma{a)rghasi in the Hittite. There is a clear suggestion of a theocratic ideal in state aiSairs, beginning with the high priest- hood of the sovereign, and borne further by naming the subjects of the Marash king ' children of the gods,' for which there is analogy in the Vannic inscriptions. Sandes seems to be chief god. The stone sculptured with the representation of a Cerem.onial Feast is reported to have been found, together with ' lance heads and potsherds,' in a vine- yard of Marash.^ This is another of that class of monument of which we noted the wide distribution and varying features in connection with that found at Kara-burshlu. In this case both figures are seated. They are presumably but not necessarily female. They are clad in long robes ; details of the bust are not visible, and it is only the relative smallness of the feet and hands, and certain fulness in the treatment of the bodies, that offer a suggestion of their sex. They are seated on high square chairs with backs that curl away at the top, and their feet rest upon low square footstools. A table between them has straight legs, of which only two are shown, ornamented in some way at the feet. On the table are three round bread-cakes and a cup. The figures are vis-a-vis : each one stretches out the further hand, the left one holding a cup, the other a round mirror of familiar Egyptian shape. Their other hands are drawn back and only just pro- trude from their cloaks ; each seems to hold the same 1 Messerschmidt, C.I.H. (1900, pt, 5), PI. xxii., and ibid., 4, p. 18, 112 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES sort of object, 'perhaps a vase or pomegranate.'^ The garment is curious, being continuous over the head-dress, and descending to the ankles, with a fringe or border all along the edge and round the bottom. There is a waistband to each figure, which is seemingly composed of separate strands, but it is difficult to under- stand its attachment.^ The head-dress is singular, being cylindrical in shape, recalling most nearly that of the Turkoman women.' The faces of the persons are ill- drawn and unnatural, but prominence is given to the straightness of nose in line with the receding forehead * and to the fulness of the lips. Above and between the heads there are traces of a considerable inscription in relief, of which the signs towards the sides can be made out with some certainty ; but the middle portion is too worn to enable one to study the sequence of the characters, or even to decide whether they form two groups, one referring to each person. The where- abouts of this stone is uncertain, but casts are in the Berlin Museum. Its height is 49 inches and width 35 inches ; it is just over 15 inches thick. The material is basaltic stone or dolerite. The portion of a statue from Marash * is of importance as numbering, together with a large hand from the same place and the broken figure from Kurts-oghlu, among the very few recorded Hittite sculptures in the round. Unfortunately this one is too broken and too small to tell us much in detail of this feature of Hittite art. 1 Perrot and Chipiez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, li. p. 64. 2 C(. the similar feature in a sculpture from Carchemish, p. 127. 3 Cf. the photograph PI. v. (li) of women at Kartal, which is in the Kurt Dagh to the south of Marash. A suggestive general resemblance is to be found on certain Etruscan monuments. * Cf. PI. LXXV., LXXVII. ^ C.I.H. (1900-5), Pi. XXIII. A-B. Original in the Berlin Vorderasia- tiscbes Museum, No. 973. MARASH: TORSO AND STELA 113 With the exception of the right shoulder, however, the whole body is preserved, and only the head and feet are lacking ; but the style of the object is formal, and in place of artistic detail there are merely four or five irregular bands of inscription in relief, with other signs upon the preserved shoulder. The right hand remains, but it is worn and lacks detail; in the left there seems to be held a sort of loop with pendent tassel. The material of the statuette is basalt. The height preserved is under 9 inches, its width 6 inches. This torso seeras to have belonged to a figure quite distinct from another of similar material which seems to have come from the same vicinity.^ Of this only two broad bands of the inscription remain, but they seem to mark the beginning of a long inscription; the symbols are boldly cut in relief, and are similar in every way to those of Jerabis. The fragment is rounded and apparently formed part of a hollow figure : it was copied by the discoverers amid much difiiculty and subsequently disappeared. The existence of a third statue at Marash, but in this case of gigantic size, is indicated by a large hand, fully twice life-size, and carved in the round.^ It is, of course, impossible to say from this fragment whether it is really of Hittite origin. Another important monument of Marash has the appearance of a royal stela with a long inscription accompanied by an image of the king. This belongs to a class of monument of which we shall find further examples at Carchemish and in the neighbourhood of Tyana. In this case the figure occupies the central part of the stone, reaching almost to its full length ; and ' Hogarth, Eecueil, etc., xv. p. 32, and PI. ii., fig. B. 2 Berlin Vorderasiatisches Museum, No. 972. H 114 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES the inscription is incised in six rows across the whole, the face and feet and forearms of the man alone excepted. The face of the kingly personage is turned to his right, and the whole figure is in profile with the exception of the shoulders, which are square to the observer — in conformity with the common Oriental principles of drawing. The right hand holds a staff which touches the ground in front of the right foot, and rises vertically as high as the shoulders ; both elbows are bent at right angles, the left fist being closed and shown about the middle of the body. The robe is a single garment reaching to the ankles, the bottom being fringed or bordered. The toes of the boots are upturned, and, being represented clumsily, look like sabots. The face of the man is too worn to show much character ; there is a long curled beard, a band around the forehead, and the hair or wig ends in a prominent curled bunch behind the neck. This stone seems to have been found outside Marash in a burying- place on the road to Adana.^ Its height is nearly 3 feet 8 inches, and its breadth just over 1 foot 10 inches.^ This monument must yield place to another, which is of unique character and interest, more recently dis- covered^ on the citadel. This is a block of granite more nearly cubical in shape, but with the top and bottom broken away, so that its original height re- mains problematical. The preserved portion measures about 2 feet 3 inches in height, and the combined length of three sides, which are approximately equal, is about 5 feet 2 inches. On three sides the inscription is continuous; the hieroglyphs are in relief and are 1 C.I.H. (1900-4), p. 20 ; Ihid. (1900-5), PI. xxv. ^ It is now in the Metropolitan Museum, New York; (Cesnola Coll., No 1904), and there are impressions in the Berlin Museum. 3 C.I.H. (1906), pp. 12-15, and PI. Lll. MARASH: A FOUR-SIDED MONUMENT 115 arranged in five bands, of which four are seemingly complete. A sixth band at the bottom is partly trace- able, and there may have been others below; at the top, however, the limit is clearly marked, so that the beginning of the inscription is preserved. The open- ing groups of signs resemble closely those on the lion previously described, though variations of single signs are noticeable, and may possibly supply philologists with alternative readings. It is not, however, the in- scription, though unusually legible and complete, that attracts our interest, so much as the sculptures and composition of the whole. The inscription is preceded by a king-like figure in relief, who occupies the right- hand portion of the side on which he is carved and faces away from the inscription, to the right, looking that is to the corner. The inscription follows : the height of the figure is equal to four bands of the hiero- glyphs, and the lower bands project under his feet. The second side is entirely filled with the continuation of the inscription, which comes to an end at the left hand of the third side (which is opposite the figure) with the upper part of the picture of a dagger and part of an attachment for it. On the fourth side there is no inscription ; the corners are cut away, but there is seen in the middle a sort of tassel, on a large scale accordant with that of the dagger-hilt. It must be noted that the king is turned towards this object in the extended drawing : he is portrayed much as on the stela described above, but the drawing is not good or well preserved. He wears a long robe bound around the waist; the short sleeves are orna- mented at the ends, whether with a plain band or otherwise; and the bottom of the plain skirt, which reaches to the ankles, is also fringed or bordered in 116 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES some way. The toes are shown upturned. The head- dress seems to be a close-fitting skull-cap, behind which the hair descends in the familiar bunching curl. The beard hangs in curls. The face is crudely represented, the mouth being no longer distinguishable. The left hand, which is very disproportioned, is held up before the face with fingers towards the mouth, in the posi- tion which in the hieroglyphs is read to indicate the beginning of a personal declaration. The right hand is drawn up breast high, but no staff is shown, possibly because it would have traversed the body. This stone is thought by Dr. Messerschmidt, who has studied it closely,' to have been re-dressed and re-used in Hittite times ; he thinks that a large god-figure, wearing a dagger suspended from the shoulder, must have been originally the chief subject of the sculpture ; and that this was partly effaced in Hittite times by the king, who had the stone re-dressed and his own figure carved thereon. The inscription he regards as pertaining to the larger figure; and he looks upon the mutilation of the figure of a god as the sign of a period of decline and degradation. This monument is unique in character, and every respect must be paid to the conclusions of one who, being familiar with Hittite works, has studied this one carefully. Having only the photograph and drawings which he published as guide, we naturally hesitate to put forward any alternative view; yet it must be said that there are several fundamental objections to the explanation which has been offered. The most obvious and irremovable is that there is direct evidence on the face of the stone that the carving is all con- temporary; for it is all in relief, and in accordance ' Op. cit., p. 13, Theoriginalisat the Constantinople Museum, No. 1625, MARASH : A PECULIAR CULT 117 with precedent the background not sculptured must have been cut away, so that it would have been im- possible subsequently to carve thereon a figure with the same relief as the rest. Added to this, it is clear that the inscription is arranged with due regard to the small figure, not the reverse. Also the ends of the inscribed bands are coterminous with the dagger, stamping the whole composition as contemporary. It must next be noted that no trace of a great figure is to be seen, nor can its form be conjectured, seeing that the dagger hangs on one side and the tassel on the next, unless indeed the stone formed the lower portion of a somewhat angular statue,^ about four times its present height. A figure in relief would have occupied part of two sides of the stone including the corner — an unprecedented complication in Hittite sculpture. The analogy quoted by Dr. Messer- schmidt of the god-figure discovered in the last excava- tions at Sinjerli breaks down at this point. That object was carved in the round, representing a deity standingin Hittite fashion upon a base composed of two standing lions, as on the monuments of Carchemish andBoghaz- Keui. He wears a dagger stuck into a belt, and with the trappings there is a large tassel of the kind seen on the fourth side in this instance. From these details Dr. Messerschmidt thinks that the Marash monument only differed in that the dagger must have been worn suspended from the shoulder, on account of the pen- dent position of the belt. On all analogy, however, the priest-king in this case must be facing the deity he is worshipping. If then no other form of deity can be suggested, we must take the only evidence before us as ' After inspection of the object we believe this to be the real explana- tion. We are confirmed also in our impression that the inscription and carving are contemporary with the original monument.— March 1910. 118 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES to its nature, which would lead us to infer that it is here represented by the dagger and tassel. We venture no hypothesis in explanation; the Sacred Dirk^ as a cult object is known in Hittite symbolism and familiar in the hieroglyphs; and it would be equally accordant with precedent to imagine that the dirk was really emblematic of the deity with whom it was usually associated. Alternatively the object of worship may have been a great divine statue upon the skirt of which these representations were carved. Among the minor inscribed objects from Marash there should be mentioned one, which is a fragment of basalt lOJ inches high and 8 inches wide, inscribed with characters in high relief on two adjacent sides.^ There are also several uninscribed sculptures from Marash of peculiar interest. The first is a slab of basalt 21 inches high, carved in relief.^ The subject is that of a female seated at a table facing to the left ; on her left knee * is a child, whose face is towards the mother. In the right hand of the woman is a decorated mirror, or something of that form ; and in her left, which is extended over the table, she holds a primitive five-stringed lyre, square in shape.'^ Over the lyre is a bird often taken for a dove, but more nearly resembling a vulture.^ The counterpart to the figure, if such existed, is broken away ; the carving 1 See, for example, flg. No. 72 in the small gallery at lasily Kaya, below, PI. Lxx. ; also pp. 110, 360. For the tassel of. pp. 306, 308, and PI. Lxxxi. (li). 2 C.I.H. (1900-4), p. 19 ; and (1900-5), PI. xxiv. 3 Humann and Puchsteln, Beisen, etc.. Atlas, PI. xlvii.. No. 2; Perrot and Chlpiez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii., flg. 281. Metrop. Mus. of Art, New York, No. 1906. * Thought by Perrot to be a high stool. ' Cf. the lyre held by an Asiatic immigrant into Egypt about 2000 B.C. Newberry, Beni Hasan (London, 1893), PI. xxxi. ' As a cult object this bird provides a wide and interesting range of study. Cf. for example, an Archaic Greek statue of the sixth century B.C., from Asia Minor, in the Berlin Museum (Stehende Frau), No. 1597. MARASH : UNINSCRIBED RELIEFS 119 is crude and the surface worn. Such details as are distinguishable, the robe, the hat, the chair and table, seem to be similar respectively to those upon the sculp- ture of the Ceremonial Feast from this place previously described. There is a second uninscribed stone on which appears the emblem of a bird similar to the other in outline and appearance.^ In this case the subject shows two figures, one on either side of a small two- legged table. That on the right, which is seated, wears the same cylindrical hat as in the cases just described. That on the left, w^hich is standing, is clad in a long robe, which, from such details as are visible, suggests the toga-like garment which distinguishes the priestly class on certain monuments of Asia Minor. The further hand of each is outstretched as usual, the one holding a mirror and the other the bird ; the latter feature, however, is not carved with the same detail as in the case just quoted. Over the right shoulder of the standing figure there seems to hang a bow of the peculiar triangular form often depicted in ancient drawing.^ The cord, however, is not seen; and the stone is in general worn so smooth that little detail can be discerned. The bow reappears on a third un- inscribed fragment, which probably resembled the former in subject somewhat closely. On this a figure is shown standing before a two-legged table, over which he holds aloft a curving bow with his extended left hand. In his right hand, which is kept low, there may be seen two arrows, while a quiver hangs at his waist. This stone is also very smooth-worn, but some details of dress may still be recognised, notably the skull-cap ' Humann and Puchstein, Beisen, etc.. Atlas, PI. XLVii., fig. 4. There Is a cast in the Berlin Museum, No. 61. 2 E.g. at Kara-Bel, PI. Liv. ; and at Malatia, PI. xliv. Cf. also the scene of the storming of Dapur in the Eamesseum at Thebes. 120 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES long robe with fringe, and turned-up shoes. The Hittite character of the theme is sustained by the arrange- ment of the hair, which falls away in a single thick cluster or curl behind the neck. A tassel is attached to the waist-belt.^ A fourth stone of somewhat larger size, being 35 inches high, is decorated with a subject of unusual character, but unfortunately the most important figure of the scene is largely broken away.^ This must have been a picture of a god, represented in long fringed robe, and sandals with upturned toes. Poised aloft in front of him, but how supported is not seen, there is the end of an implement or weapon, the attachment to which forms a loop, and then hangs down. A low table, with two curving legs, is placed opposite the middle height of this figure; upon it is a bird, seemingly a goose, with bread-cakes and other eatables. On the opposite side, and facing the major being, a small male figure stands at the same level as the table. He is clad in a short fringed tunic, with oblique fold, and a vest with short sleeves. On his feet are sandals, with the points very promin- ently returned, and above these are anklets, unless these be long laces wrapped around the ankles to bind the sandals. His hair is curly on the head and bound by a fillet, while lower down it hangs more straightly as far as the shoulders. An ear-ring is suggested, and thick bracelets are clearly shown. He holds an object in his left hand which may be taken for a palm leaf, while with the right he partly proffers towards the greater person a small cup which seems to be bound ' A cast is in tlie Berlin Vorderasiatisches Museum, No. 63, V.A.G. 2 Humann, etc., op. cit., XLVii. 5 ; Perrot, etc., op. cit., fig. 282. The original is in the Metropolitan Museum, New York, No. 1905 ; and there is a cast in the Berlin Museum. MARASH: SCULPTURED FRAGMENTS 121 around with two small bands, as though made of wood. Below, in such space as remains available, the sculptor has added a horse led by a man. Both are on a small scale, but disproportionate, as the man stands higher than the horse's head ; this arises from the fact that a greater height is available under the feet of the small figure than under the greater one, where the horse's body is seen. The animal is a stallion, represented with a vague suggestion of spirited movement in the fore-legs ; and his shoulder-muscles are shown in the same conventional outline as is seen sometimes on the representations of lions in this style of art.^ The man holds the bridle with his right hand ; and, with his back to the horse, and indeed to the greater figure, he holds a spear upright with his left hand, the end of the shaft resting on the ground. He seems to wear a skull-cap, and his hair falls behind in the characteristic bunch or knot. In this case, as in nearly all the figures con- sidered, the outline of the face shows the nose and forehead as practically continuous. There are two further sculptured fragments of stones from Marash worthy also of special mention. On the one there is preserved the front part of a chariot and the hind part of a horse ; ^ the carving is rough, and the drawing neither clear nor good. A small animal under the horse may be a dog. The wheel of the chariot seems to have had eight spokes. The driver is hardly seen, except for the forearm and the hand that grasps the reins. We may conclude none the less that the fragment formed part of a scene of the royal hunt.^ 1 Cf. pp. 265, 282. 2 Humann and Puchstein, op. cit., PI. XLVii. 1. Berlin Vorderasiatisches Museum, 62. 3 Cf. similar sculptures of Malatia, p. 133 ; Sakje-Geuzi, PI. xxxix. 122 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES The other fragment is better known, showing the head of a musician playing the double pipes. ^ From the treatment of the hair and general character of the carving of this piece we suspect that it is of post- Hittite art, corresponding to the Aramaic period at Sinjerli. There is also in the Berlin Museum a new piece in Hittite style which may very well come from the same place. It is about two feet high, and rather wider. The sculpture is fragmentary, but of striking interest, for the central figure, a man, seems to be riding on horseback. He grasps the bridle with his left hand, and holds a curving nameless object in the right. His legs and the body of the horse are not visible. In the background to the left there is the smaller figure of a female seated on a chair. She holds a pomegranate in her right hand, and raises a drinking-cup with the left. To the right of the man's head a tiny figure seems to represent the whisk- bearer, turning towards his lord, and waving a palm leaf. This brings to an end the list of major monuments from Marash. When it is considered that the site has never been excavated for its antiquities, and that these discoveries are mostly accidental, it must be admitted that there is evidence here of a Hittite city of exceptional importance. The date to which it can be assigned as a seat of power will be considered when all the data for comparison are before us.^ We now pass to a third group of Syrian monu- ments : those which are found at places on the Euphrates, which we accept as the eastern frontier. We begin naturally with Jerablus, the site of Car- 1 Original Berlin Vorderas. Mus., No. 974 ; Perrot and Chipiez, op. cit., ii. p. 77, fig. 290. 2 See below, p. 380. PLATE XLIII CARCHEMISH : THE LION-DEITY 123 chemish, as being the nearest, the furthest south and the most famous. Here was the strategic frontier in the struggle of the oriental nations, and here a Hittite fortress was so strongly placed that it defied the assaults of the Pharaohs, and resisted with a great measure of success the efforts of the Assyrians to reduce it several centuries after the Hittite power had passed its zenith.^ Some anaount of excavation has been made upon the site, and though not thorough and inadequately reported, we gain thereby an indication of a walled city upon the river's brink, protected on the land side by ditches in addition to the ramparts,^ and enclosing as usual a high knoll which marks at once the acropolis and the site of the original settlement in a remoter age. Here there have been found several lengthy inscriptions in Hittite characters, numerous fragm.ents of the same kind, two stelae and the upper portion of a third, as well as a stone sculptured upon its flat side with the full-face portrait of an exalted being. In some of the sculptures the motive, and in others the details, of treatment tell of the proximity to a dominant extraneous artistic influence. This is particularly to be noticed in the emblems of winged deities, and in some of the monuments on which no Hittite hieroglyphs are found. One of the latter category is a striking monument represent- ing two figures standing upon the back of a crouch- ing lion. The mane of the lion is represented, but no hair is shown underneath the belly. The atti- tude of the beast is uncommon in Hittite art, as may ' Cf. below, p. 371, and Maspero, The Struggle of the Nations, pp. 145 ff. " See Perrot and Chipiez, op. cit., ii. p. 281, for summary of a report printed in the Graphic. Consult also Drummond, Travels . . . to the Banks of the Euphrates (1754), p. 209 ; and Maundrell (Hy.), A Journey . . . to the Banks of the Euphrates (Oxford), 1749. 124 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES be seen by comparing the lions of Sinjerli, Sakje- Geuzi, Marash, Derendeh, and elsewhere. The animals carved on the rock walls of the sanctuary of lasily Kaya, which also support exalted persons, are represented as standing ; whereas in this case the chin, belly, and tail of the animal almost touch the ground. The nearest analogy is perhaps one of the less known sculptures of Eyuk,^ but there is no real parallel for this treatment of the subject. Of the personages, one is winged and clearly divine, while the other, though dressed in the same way, stands behind over the quarters of the animal, with one hand raised in an attitude of reverence or supplication. Otherwise the figures are of equal height, and their costumes also are alike. The head-dress ^ is a conical hat with prominent upturning brim ; the toes of the shoes are likewise turned up in an exaggerated manner. The robe in each case is long, with a broad fringe around the bottom ; around the waist there is a belt or girdle, and a fold of the skirt falls sideways from the middle towards the right. The wings of the leading figure rise sharply upwards from behind the shoulders, as on one of the deities of lasily Kaya. He stands upon the shoulders of the beast, whose head cowers in abjection. In the photo- graph before us there is a suggestion of hieroglyphs upon the face of the stone, a feature which is not, however, confirmed by the observations of others. We thus have in this sculpture a recognisable mingling > See p. 263; and ct. PI. Lxv. (lasily Kaya), PI. Lxxix. (Sakje-Geuzi), and PI. XLii. (Marash). For a discussion of the motive in general, see Aus- grabungen in Sendschirli, cit,, p. 270, note 1. 2 As represented by Perrot and Chipiez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii. p. 62, flg. 276. For the photo from which we write we are indebted to the courtesy of the Mission at Caesarea. This object is illustrated by an ill-printed photograph in Sayce's The Hittites, to face p. 58, where it is described by oversight as from Marash. CARCHEMISH: SCULPTURES 125 of the Hittite and Assyrian motives ; and the sculptor's art, at any rate, has not suffered in the combination. Both in treatment and in drawing this monument, though weathered and exposed, reveals an evidence of artistic skill which in some of the purely Hittite monuments elsewhere is not even suggested. Turning now to the monuments of Jerablus that bear Hittite inscriptions upon them, another deity is found on a fragment of basalt, 31 inches high, upon which the lower part of the body and the ends of four bands of hieroglyphs are preserved.^ In this case the wings are depressed, folding by the sides, and reaching to the knees, otherwise they would hardly be visible on the broken stone. The feet of the figure and the left hand are missing ; in the right hand, which is in front of the body, is a small seed-basket — a symbolism derived from the other side of the Euphrates.^ The long robe of this deity is similarly strange to early Hittite art, being bordered with a long fringe, and divided by several parallel bands of embroidery.^ This seems to be an outer cloak, for one may see on the original traces of the familiar short tunic. The carving of this monument is unsurpassed on any inscribed Hittite relief. The delicate indications of the knee muscles may be noted as an illustration, especially when the gritty nature of the stone is taken into con- sideration. In making this conaparison it should be borne in mind that most of the known Hittite reliefs are worn through exposure to the weather ; and that 1 British Museum, Guide to Babylonian and Assyrian Antiquities, p. 27, No. 3 ; Perrot and Chipiez, Art in . . . Asia Minor, ii., flg. 277 ; Measerschmidt, C.I.H. (1900), PI. xii. A photograph in Ball, Light from the East, p. 142. 2 Cf. also the sculpture found at Sakje-Geuzi, PI. lxxx. ; and Liv. Annals Arch., 1908 (4), PI. XLi., No. 2, where the deity has four wings. 3 Cf. the sculptures of Bor, PI. Lvi. ; and lyriz, PI. lvii. 126 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES objects unearthed for the first time, as at Sakje-Geuzi, give a different impression as regards the sculptor's craft. Another noteworthy instance is at lasily Kaya, where a row of figures which had been partly covered, at least for long centuries, has been cleared during the last few decades, giving evidence of a detailed treat- ment of the whole series which would not have other- wise been suggested. Another sculptured object belongs to the category of stelae, resembling in general that of Marash. It is partly chipped away, but sufficient remains for us to make out its original character and dimensions.^ It is 47 inches high and 26 inches wide. It is crossed horizontally with eight bands of hieroglyphic inscriptions in relief, with raised lines between them, except where the outline of the central figure intervenes. This represents a man, in higher relief than the rest of the carving,^ who stands in the middle portion of the stone, his feet descending below the inscription, and his head just entering the topmost band. The figure is nearly all chipped away, but the outline remains by that very process well defined. The person, undoubtedly a king, faces to his left, and in his extended left arm he holds aloft a short staff or rod which is marked as though divided down the middle. His right arm is not seen. His robe was crossed obliquely by folds, and it descended to the ankles. His feet were shod, and the toes of the shoes turned sharply upwards. His hair seems to have been dressed ^ in a 1 C. I.n., 1900, PI. X. ; British Museum Guide, cit., p. 27, No. 8. Render- ing by Sayce in Proc. S.B.A., 1905, Nov., p. 201, beginning ' the dirk- bearer of Carchemish.' The repetition of the geographical word Kar-lca-me-is (Assyrian Gargamis) is a remarkable corroboration of Professor Sayce's system of translation. 2 Cf. for this feature the Bor sculpture, PI. LVi. •5 On the importance of this detail as a criterion, see p. 379. CARCHEMISH : INSCRIPTIONS 127 single bunched curl behind the neck, but the point is obscure. The upper portion of a second similar monu- ment is on record,^ but the object is destroyed. It shows a central figure turned likewise to the left ; with the left hand up, and forward, and the right hand before the chest. The head-dress seems to be a skull-cap, with band across the forehead. The sleeves of the dress are short ; and around the waist there is another instance of the broad girdle of cords, ending, it would seem, in a curling knot or loop.^ There are four rows of hieroglyphs, of which we have only an imperfect copy. A fragment of a third monument of like kind is preserved,^ but it is uninstructive. There are two notable inscriptions from Jerablus among many which are fragmentary. The one is a corner-stone of special shape,* being recessed in the very angle for eight inches on each side. The raised inscription upon it, however, seems to be continuous even through the recessed angle to the broken end of the block. The stone is basalt, and the whole measures 39^ inches in height. The widths of the various stages, beginning from the right side, which is unbroken, are 7 inches, 8^ inches. 8f inches, and 22 inches to the frac- tured edge. In further explanation of the form of the stone, it may be said that the first and third of these measures are in the , same parallel direction, and com- bine to give that side of the whole stone a width of 15|^ inches. Similarly the next side was at least SO^- inches wide. The inscription is in relief, and is arranged in ' Boscawen in the Graphic, Dec. 11, 1880 ; Perrot and Chipiez, op. cit., ii., Additions, fig. 390; C.T.S. (1900), PI. xv. 13, and Text, p. 12. 2 Cf. Baruch, vl. 43. ' The women having cords around their body sit ; and one says . . . why was I not chosen and my cord broken ? ' 3 Brit. Mus. Guide, p. 27, No. 6 ; C.I.R. (1902), PI. xiv.. No. 7. * British Museum Guide, p. 27, No. 1, where 'portion of a building' is the sum of information available; C.I.H., PI. ix., and Text, p. 9; Ball, Light from, the East, p. 143 ; Sayce in S.B.A., 1905, Nov., p. 204. 128 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES five bands, divided by lines of equal projection. The signs are clear, and the tenor of the inscription, according to Professor Sayce's reading, is religious and monumental, giving the king-priest's account of his setting up a bull shrine on a high place at Carchemish. Another considerable inscription is found on a portion of a round column, 5 feet 6 inches high.^ Four bands of the inscription are perfect so far as they continue, namely, for 41 inches, but the beginning and ending of the lines are not preserved. There is another band partly visible above. The back of this object has been dressed, subsequently to the breaking of the stone, for the purpose of carving thereon a figure seemingly divine and in full face. It is not in Hittite style, but Hittite influence may be found surviving in certain features. We cannot dwell longer with profit upon the details of these broken remains, nor of the numerous inscribed fragments, of which copies of nearly twenty are before us. But if we may cull from a somewhat unusual source, namely the columns of a daily newspaper, an account of excavations made for the British Museum on the site, it would seem that the foundations of at least one palatial building were come upon. 'Facing the entrance,' we are told, ' there were found two imperfect tablets, which formed part of an adoration scene. On the one was the image of a goddess, the Hittite Kybele, naked, winged, and with hands offering her breasts.' Her hair descends in a double plait on each side, curling away at the bottom around the shoulders.^ The hat is of conical shape, the brim upturned, and > C.I.H. (1900), PI. XI., 2, and Text, p. 10; British Museum Guide, p. 27, No. 2 ; Sayce in S.B.A., 1905 (Nov.), p. 206. 2 Perrot and Chipiez, op. cit., flg. 390. Addenduin, 1910 : our informa- tion about these sculptures is now supplemented by Mr. Hogarth's account, Liv. Annals of Arch. (Dec. 1909), ii. pp. 165-172, and Pis. xxxv., sxxvi. (i). See also Kellekli in Appendix B. BIREJIK AND TELL-AHMAR 129 bulging at the top. The priestess represented on the adjoining slab was thought by those who saw the sculptures to have been clad in a cloak, but the stone was broken away above the knees of the figure. A little further along were three figures in procession. This stone was likewise broken about the middle of the figures ; ^ but the central figure may be seen to have been clad in a long fringed cloak, with a long under garment which is belted, while the outer figures hare only the short tunic familiar in Hittite sculptures. Only the outer figures wear the turned-up shoe, an interesting distinction if correctly represented. M. Perrot sees in the sculptures a priest between two warriors. The border to the stone is the pattern of continuous concentric circles such as we have seen at Sakje-Geuzi on sculptures of late Hittite art. A short distance up the Euphrates from Jerablus is Birejik, which has now supplanted the former as the place for the passage of the river. From here there comes a curious monument of indefinite origin, now in the British Museum under the title ' Monolith of a King.' As there is no clear evidence upon it or in the circumstances of its discovery that it is of Hittite handiwork, we do not dwell upon it. It has, however, several suggestive features, not the least interesting of which is the winged disk with horse-shoe ornament above the figure, as in the emblems which designate the priest-king at Boghaz-Keui.^ At Tell- Ahmar, where there is another crossing of the Euphrates about the same distance southward from Jerablus, Mr. Hogarth has recently made discoveries which contribute impor- tant evidences to our subject. Awaiting a full descrip- 1 Perrot and Chipiez, Ariin . . . Asia Minor, fig. 391. 2 Perrot and Chipiez, op. cit, ii. p. 62, fig. 278. 130 MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES tion of these newly-found monuments,^ we may take note that the site of the finds was on the eastern bank of the river, revealing the Hittites of that day as masters of this crossing ; and that among the objects discovered, here or in the neighbourhood, are a lion of somewhat Hittite character, inscribed in cuneiform but not in hieroglyphs, and a stela or sculptured monument of sorts, with eight lines of inscription in relief around three sides, and on the fourth side the lower part of a male figure standing upon a bull. Further up the river, above Birejik, is Rum-Kale, whence comes another fragment equally doubtful and even more curious. It is certainly one of the worst serious efforts to draw a human figure that sculptor or mason ever worked upon. M. Perrot ^ apparently includes this in his list of Hittite works, though he describes it as ' uncouth,' There is in this case no indication of Hittite or of any other style, so that nothing can be gained by considering it further. When we reach Samsat, however, a definitely Hittite monument presents itself.^ This is an object which in form recalls the funerary stela of Kara-burshlu ; but as in this case a pedestal of diminishing thickness is preserved, and the inscription is likewise found upon the two sides of the stone, there is further evidence in favour of its having stood alone. The subject of the sculpture carved upon the face is quite different, how- ever, being only a single figure. So far as this can be seen (for a deep groove has been cut at some time down the length of the stone through the middle of the body), ' Since published, see App. B, and Liv. Annals of Arch., ii. pp. 177- 183, and Pis. xxxvii.-XL. 2 Op. cit., fig. 283. First published in Gazette Arch., 1883. PI. xxii. 2 Humann and Puchstein, Reisen in Kleinasien und NorA Syrien (Berlin, 1890), Atlas, PI. XLix., No. 1-3. Also Messerschmidt, C.I.H. (1900), PI. xvu., and Text, p. 14. SAMSAT AND GERGER 131 it seems to be that of a man turned to his right. He is clad in a long robe fringed at the bottom, and wearing shoes with the toes turned extravagantly upwards. He seems to be holding (with the right hand possibly) a staff, and more doubtfully a reversed lituus with the left, after the manner of the priests of Boghaz-Keui and Eyuk. The inscription is incised, but it is hardly sufficiently well preserved to be copied with any certi- tude. Nine rows of hieroglyphs are traceable at the one side and six upon the other, but nearly half of the stone is missing. It was found in the open, partly buried, between the town and the hill of the acropolis. Its height is just over five feet, without including the pedestal, so that the figure which stands clear of the bottom was about life size. The face of the stone is 25 inches wide, and the depth of the inscribed sides seventeen inches. At Gerger Kalesi, almost at the main turn of the river, there is a monument on the rocks, about which further details would be full of interest. From the published drawings ^ it resembles the Hittite reliefs of Giaour-Kalesi and Kara-Bel in the west of the Hittite lands ; and we await some further careful examination with expectation of finding Hittite hieroglyphs upon it. The figure is apparently gigantic, of three times human height. It is that of a warrior clad in short tunic (the details of which are doubtful). He wears a collar of some kind and a conical hat. There is a bow over the left shoulder ; the right hand is down and forward. It simulates a Hittite monument very closely, and its presence on the brink of the Eastern frontier of that people is the more full of interest. ' Humann and Puchatein, Eeisen, etc., p. 355, fig. 50. 'Felarelief bei Gerger.' 132 THE LAND OF THE HITTITES Section B. — Monuments in the Taurus and Anti-Taukus. malatia, derendeh, palanga, gurun ; arslan tash, ALBISTAN ; KURU-BEL ; EKRBK, TASHJI, ERAKTIN. From the north of Syria we pass to the mountainous region of the Taurus and Anti-Taurus. Here is the centre, if not the focus, of the Hittite lands, and isolated monuments are found in considerable numbers and variety. When one takes into account the diffi- culty of exploration, it must be conceded to be a re- markable and suggestive fact that no fewer than eleven Hittite sites in the Taurus country are clearly indicated, as compared with the same number in the north of Syria, and about twenty scattered throughout the whole tableland and west of Asia Minor. One of the most important of these sites is located at Old Malatia, which lies near the confluence of the Tochma Su with the Euphrates. Here there must have been a fortified city, comparable to Marash, for the defence of the frontier. Though no systematic excavation of the site has yet been made, yet the nature of the several sculptures found there speaks for itself. The mound which marks the old-time acro- polis is probably that now called Arslan Tepe, near the village of Ordasu, about two or three miles north- eastward from the modern town : the attention of scholars was called to this spot by the visit of Mr. Hogarth's expedition in 1894. The explorer describes the mound ^ as about fifty feet in height, of irregular shape, longest from north to south, like the accumula-. ' Becueil de Travaux, xvii. p. 26. MALATIA : THE LION-HUNT 133 tion above a building, but without any visible masonry upon it. West of it rise two smaller mounds, and to the south. one. The Euphrates is about two hours dis- tant. The sculptured stones are seven in number, and they seem to form part of a series decorating a fa