CORNELL UNfVERSITY LIBRARY 3 1924 089 543 700 DATE DUE GAYLOBD PRINTED IN U.S.A Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924089543700 These numerous awards from different parts of the world are significant of the excellence of Workmanship, Quality and Efficiency, and confirm the judgment of the vast army of users as evidenced by the enormous and ever-increasing demand for Disston Brand Goods. RES. U S. PAT. OPP. DISSTON Lumberman Handbook CONTAINING A TREATISE ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF SAWS AND HOW TO KEEP THEM IN ORDER. TOGETHER WITH OTHER INFORMATION OF KINDRED CHARACTER. Entered, recording to Act of Congrees, in the year 1907, by HEKRY DISSTON & SONS, Incorporated In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. HENRY DISSTON ^ SONS INCORPORATED Keystone Saw, Tool, Steel and File Works PHILADELPHIA. U. S. A. BRANCH HOUSES) CHICAGO, ILLS. CINCINNATI. OHIO SEATTLE. WASHINGTON BOSTON. MASS. NEW ORLEANS. LA. MEMPHIS, TENN. SAN FRANCISCO. CAL. PORTLAND. OREGON VANCOUVER. B. C. TORONTO. CANADA April, 1919 HENRY DISSTON & SONS. Inc. INDEX INDEX. Page Anvils 93 Back Saws ..... .. 161, 163 BAND SAWS 96-122 The Making 96-90 Brazing Ill Brazing Clamps .... 111-113 Breakageof SmallBandSaws 11-i Care and Management . . .102 Crowning or Straight-back . 100 Eccentric Band Saw Swage 99, 119 Filing Room Outfit . . . . 110 Guide— Saw 122 Instructions 102 Joining Ill, 113 Mill— Left-hand 100 Right-hand 101 Order— How To . .100,101 Outfit— for Filing Room . . 110 Screwpress — Hand 118 Setting Machine 121 Sharpener — Automatic Ma- chine 120 Swage Shaper 117B Teeth — Shapes of 115 Tension Gauge 105 Barrel Saws 66 Bevels— The Making of . . . 178 Bilge Saws 66 Buck or Wood Saws 175 Butcher Saws 162 The Making 171: Circular Knives 198 CIRCULAR SAWS Inserted Tooth . . . 50-61, 79, 83 The Making ... . 50, 51 Page American Saw C\). Designs 60 Directions for using Chisel Points and Holders . 57 Dresing Points . . . . . . 55 File — Chisel Point 55 Frozen Timber 56 Guides 51 Holders 54 Inserted Tooth No. 16 . . 59 Inserting New Points . . . . 54 Milling Saws . . . . 76, 79, 83 Machine for Sharpening "Premier" Saw Teeth . S:! Order — How to 5.'5 Premier Inserted-tooth Metal' Saw 79 Re-Saws No. 16 58 Sharpening Chisel Points . . 54 Spaulding Tooth No. 10 . . 58 Stone Saw — Inserted Diamond Tooth . . .61 Swaging Points . . . 55 Teeth— The 53 Teeth— Styles of 24 Trenton Tooth 60 Uses of Chisel-point Saws . . 53 Width of Cutting-edge . . . 56 SOLID TOOTH SAWS . . 19-24 The making 20-23 Adjusting Saw to Mill ... 29 Aligning Saw with Carriage . 28 Anvils, Hammers, Straight Edges 93 Causes for Complaint . . . . 27 Chambering 42 I N D K X Page Cold Weather— Hints . . . .38 Collars 29 Cut-off Saws 35, 30 Fitting — Instructions for . . 32 Gauge for Shape of Teeth . . 33 Gullet Tooth Circular Saws . 40 Hammering and Adjusting 8-4-93 Hints to Saw5'ers and Sawmill Men 27 l,ining Saw with Carriage . . 28 Order — Directions 26 Setting 32 Setting Carriage Track ... 28 Sharpening 32, 41 Sharpening and Gumming with Emery "Wheels . . 38 Speed of Saws 29 Square Corners in Gullets . . 36 Swage Bar 93 Teeth— for Soft and Hard Wood 43 Teeth— Styles of 24 Thin and Extra-thin Earge Saws 31 Trammel • • • 39 Chromol Hack Saw Blades . . To Clamps— for Saw Filing, 167b, 168 Concave Saws 05 Combination Cold-saw Cut- ting-off Machine . . . 82 Compass Saws 162 CROSS-CUT SAWS . . . 124-136 The Making .... 124-127 Diamond Point Vim Champion and Oriole . . 1.31 F-elling Saws ] 32 Gauge for Regulating Raker Teeth 135 Handles 137 Imperial Cross-Cut Saw Tool 134-136 Page One-man Cross-cut Saw . . 133 Patterns of Teeth . . . 128-130 Setting, Sharpening or "Fitting" .... 134-136 CYLINDER SAWS 66 Gauge for Setting 64 Gummer 67 Re-filing 66 Discs for Cutting Hot or Cold Iron 76 Eccentric Swage 99, 119 Emery Wheels 38 FIEES AND RASPS . . 183-195 The Making 183-187 General Description .... 187 Filing Guide and Clamp . . .169 Flanges — Shingle Saw . . . . 63 Frames — Hack Saws ... 74, 75 Gang Saws 123 Gauge for Regulating Eength of Cleaner Teeth ... 135 Gauge for Setting Shingle Saws . . 64 Gauge for Shape of Circular Saw Teeth 33 Gauge — Standard and Equivalents . . . . 25, 200 Grooving Saws 68, 69 Gummer — for Cylinder Saws 67 Gummers — Parts, etc. . . . 44, 48 Gumming Press and Shear . 118 Hack Saws, 72-75, 162 Hack Saw Frames . . . . 74, 75 Handles for Cross-cut Saws —The Making . . . . 137 Handles for Hand Saws — The Making . . . 171-173 HAND SAWS 138-164 The Making . . . 138-148 Acme Hand Saw No. 120 . 170 INDEX Page Angle of Teeth 160 Bevel of Taeth .... 156, 158 Construction of Saws . 149, 162 Combination Saws 164 Cross-cut Hand Saws . . . 154 Filing 156, 160 Gauge Saws 164 Graduated Rip Teeth . . .163 Handles— The Making, 171, 173 Hand Saws — Length of . . 163 Hook or Pitch of Teeth . . 157 Jointing 160, 165 Laying-out Teeth 163 No. 77 Hand Saw 170 Panel Saws — Length of . . 163 Peg Teeth 155 Points of Saws . . . .151, 152 Rip Saws 153 Length of 163 Setting Teeth 155, 162 Tenon Saws 163 Hammers 93 Heading Saws .... . . 62 Imperial Cross-cut Saw Tools . 134 Jointer — Hand Saw . . . . 165 Handy Saw Clamp 167 B Handy Saw Kit 165 Knives — Cane, Corn, Hedge and Machete . . 199 Knives — Circular 198 Knives— Machine . . . .196, 197 Levels— The Making 176 Lock Corner Cutters 69 Machine Hack Saw Blades . . 74 Mandrels 94, 95 Metal Saws . , 71, 83 Milling Saws 76, 79, 83 Millimeters 25 Mitre-box Saws , 163 Mitre Saws — Circular 70 Plumb and Levels — The Making 176 Page Pruning Saw Teeth 161 Re-filing Cylinder and Bilge Saws 66 Saws — Specially Toothed and Filed 168A Saw Sets 34, 166, 168 Setting-Stake ... . . 35 Screw-drivers — ^The Making . 179 Screw Press — Hand . . . . 118 Screw Slotting Cutters ... 78 Scroll and Web Saws ... 162 vSet Gauge — Shingle Saws . . 64 Shingle Saws 62 Side File . 34 Slitting Saws for Metal . . . . 78 Soft-Back Hacksaw Blade . . 73 Speed Indicators 30 Speed of Saws 29 Stave Saws 66 Steel— Disston's 16, 71 Weights of 200 Straight-edges 93 Swage Bar 93 Swages — Conqueror .... 33, 49 Eccentric 119 Swage Shaper 117B Teeth— Band Saw Styles of 115-118 Teeth — Circular Saws — Styles of 24 Tenon Saws 163 Terms — List of Sawmakers' . 208 Terms of Warranty 7 Trammel for Circular Saws . . 39 Trowels— The Making . . 180-182 Try-squares — The Mak- ing 177, 178 Useful Information . . . 201-205 Veneering Saws— Segment . . 64 Warranty 7 Web Saws 162 Wood Saws 175 DISSTON HANDBOOK NOTE: The various articles in this book, describing the making of the goods, are essentially short, and while giving the general or most important processes many intermediate operations are not mentioned, which, of course also have an important bearing on the workman- ship and quality of the finished tool. The interior views of the factory are from photographs of Sections only of Departments, and while serving to give some idea of the facilities, etc., do not by any mea»s convey an adequate impression of the immensity of the Plant, which can only be appreciated by a trip through the Works. DissTonsr handbook TERMS or WARRANTY. A LL GOODS br&nded Disston are fully guaran- teed as to material and workmanship. If at fault in any particular all necessary repairs will be made free of charge, or the article replaced, if returned within thirty days from date of delivery. This warranty does not cover saws improperly refitted — the filing of square corners in the gfullets, case-hardening by excessive emery wheel gumming, reaming, or altering center holes of circular saws. HENRY DISSTON & SONS. INCORPORATED. DISSTON HANDBOOK ESTABLISHED 1840 PAST and PRESENT As far as can be learned the first saws of any kind manufactured in the United States were made by William Rowland, who started in business in Philadelphia in 1806. In 1823 Aaron Nichols, started a small plant in Philadelphia, and in 1828 or 1829 a firm in New York City commenced the making of circular saws from English Steel, which were about the first circular saws made in this country. Noah Worrel started in New York about 1835 to make trowels and small circular saws. In 1833 William & Charles Johnson commenced the manufacture of saws in Philadelphia and it was with this concern that Henry Disston learned his trade. In 1840 the firm of William & Charles Johnson failed and Henry Disston accepted from them some tools, steel and such material as he could get in the saw manufacturing line on account of amount due him and began the manufacture of saws in his own name. After this there were several small industries started, such as Jonathan Paul in 1840, J. Bringhurst in 1842, James Turner in 1843 and Walter Cresson in 1&45. These latter were each in turn bought out by Henry Disston. Previoxis to 1855 all the crucible steel used in this country in the manufacture of saws was brought from England. In that year, Henry Disstou built and operated the first successful crucible-steel melting plant for saw steel in the United States. The crucible steel so made by Henry Disston was hauled from the works to a mill some 5 or 6 miles away and there under his guidance, was rolled into sheets and taken back to the Disston Works to be made into saws. After several years successful trial making steel in this way, Henry Disston built a rolling mill and from then on used his own make of steel for manufacturing saws. It was a long and hard struggle for Henry Disston to secure recognition and command trade for his American-made goods, but how he succeeded is now well known. Up to this time the American market was supplied almost entirely by the foreign manufacturers, but the growth and development of this business in the United States since then has been phenomenal, as now and for some years past there have been practically no saws of any foreign manufacture imported into the United States, whilst on the other hand the American-made goods are exported very largely to aU parts of the civilized globe. But little or no advances were made in the manufacture of saws DISSTON HANDBOOK previous to the time of Henry Disston, and practically all the improve- ments in quality, style and methods of manufacture were made by him and his successors and to them is due the credit of placing American-made saws in their present position — at the head of the markets of the "World for quality, finish and correctness of pattern. Improvements on the old time patterns have been made from time to time, the aim being to make each as perfect as possible and suitable for the particular class of work for which it is intended. Henry Disston & Sons, Inc., Philadelphia, Pa. have a very large export trade, shipping great quantities of Saws, Files and other goods to all the South American States, England, France, Germany, Russia, India, Australia, South Africa, in fact it is impossible to name a ■country in which saws are used where the Disston Goods are un- known, and in these foreign countries, as well as at home, they are looked upon as second to none, in support of which fact the large business will testify. The first patent issued for a saw in the United States was to 1,. R. Bump, in 1828, for Barrel Saw. A Mulay saw was patented in 1832. The first circular saw patented was by 1,. Hitchcock, in 1833. A Bilge saw with inserted teeth was patented in 1835. It is generally conceded the idea of a handsaw was conceived as early as 1808, by Wm. Newberrj . but is of comparative recent introduction, having laid for years as a curiosity. Some time after the close of the War — before 1866, Henry Disston went to Paris where he learned of a new Bandsawing machine and brought back two of these machines with saws. The blades used were ^ inch wide and with the larger machine there were some slightly wider saws. These were the first band sawing machines in this country, so far as can be learned, and when they were first installed in the Disston Works there was hardly half a day's work done in the shops, for the curiosity of the men was aroused and all must have a look at the new machines. It took some little while to break in the men to work on these machines for they all had fear of the saw breaking and cutting off their arms. Henry Disston had been trying every way possible to obtain some method or machine by which to better saw out handles than he had been doing. He gladly seized this opportunity, and, proving success- ful, it was not long before he installed two other band sawing machines which were made in this country. Prior to this, with the old walking-beam jig saws then in use, the DISSTON HANDBOOK handles were sawed inside and outside and a man could only do about 20 dozen a daj', but when the band sawing machines were in operation there was a plentiful suppl}' of " sawed-out " work. The first Band sawing machines spoken of above were constructed of iron frames somewhat similar in form to those now in use, the later improvements consisting mainly of changes iu guides and tightening mechanism. These machines, unfortunately, were lost in the fire which destroyed the plant of Henry Disston in the latter part of 1872. The SIX INCH WIDE BANDSAWS exhibited by Henry Disston & Sons at the Centennial Exposition in 1876 wei'e looked upon as great curiosities. Considerable trouble, at that time, was experienced in running what were then termed "such wide saws," whereas at the present time Henry Disston & Sons are making band saws as large as 18 inches wide, 64 feet long, and are also making them with teeth on both edges so as to cut both ways — the forward and backward movement of the log, these saws being as large as 17 inches wide, 53 feet long. These are the largest saws of the kind ever made and are working satisfactorily. Henry Disston & Sons have made Inserted Tooth Circular Saws for cutting metal, as large as 87 inches in diameter, 1 inch thick, and cutting a kerf ly^ inch, the teeth of which were made of air-hardened steel, and were adjustable in blade. This saw was made in 1893 and was considered the largest of its kind in this country at that time. In 1905, Henry Disston & Sons made the largest Inserted Tooth Circular Stone Saws ever manufactured, which are capable of sawing at the rate of 16 inches per minute. They were 100 inches in diameter, one- third inch thick, weighed 800 pounds each, and contained 180 teeth in each of which was embedded a diamond for cutting purposes. Since these were put in use, duplicate orders have been received from time to time. With reference to improvement in quality of goods, so far as Saws are concerned there is such a material difference in these that it would be difficult to explain. For instance, take circular saws as made years ago. Then a 54 inch or 56 inch saw was about the largest made. These were ground by having a man on each side of the grindstone, running the saw over the top of the stone to grind it. When it came to ' ' balancing ' ' this saw to make it run without " wobbling " as the term is, it had to be balauced by being placed on a mandrel supported by uprights, the saw given a slight turn when naturally the heavier part would settle or turn down. Pieces of stee/ or rings were then hooked to the teeth on the upper or lighter portion to balance and determine the quantity of metal to be ground off the heavy side. This was done mostly by guess, but nevertheless the saw had to be made so it would balance, Now the saws of to-day are 10 DISSTON HANDBOOK ground on automatic machines which make them absolutely true to gauge throughout their entirety and it is not necessary to do any work for balancing. Again, saws are made to-day up to 100 inches in diameter, and by the Disston method of grinding they are made true and perfectly balanced. This would seem like progress and it is not the sacrificing of quality to price, for the saws can be made very much better and at less cost, from the fact that a man will grind five or six saws in a day where it would have taken two men a whole day to grind one of the same size by the old method. Again, saws were formerly hardened and tempered from the furnace bottom and a man to smith or straighten one of these circular saws in a day would be doing good work, but the Disston saws are now hardened and tempered by a patent process exclusively our own and one man can do eight saws in a day against one in former years, and the quality is bettered by so doing for the less hammering required on a circular saw the better the saw will run and hold its tension. This is where the cheapness comes in with a corresponding better- ment of quality and uniformity, for the machinery turns them out accu- rately, whilst wheil made by hand there were variations in size and shape. The same thing applies to handsaws and smaller blades. In the early days all the teeth were put in by a treadle press, eleven dozen being a good day's work, while with the appliances of to-day a man will do 120 dozen, do them better and more accurately. This follows also as to the grinding and other processes. In the sharpening of saws a great many Files were consumed and it was on this account that Henry Disston decided to make his own files. To decide was to act and in 1869 a plant was established fully equipped with the latest appliances, machinery and skilled workmen secured. From that time on improvements were made wherevei possible in order to obtain a file superior in quality, shape and teeth and to-day there is no better plant of its kind or one of its size that has a greater output of a superior quality, making the multiplicity of all kinds of files necessary to the trade. At least 35,000 dozen Disston Files are used annually in the Disston Saw Works. All new ideas, inventions and suggestions in the way of improve- ments are fully tried out. For this purpose is maintained a special department wherein are constantly employed a staff of mechanical engineers, designers, a large corps of machinists employed in the machine shop, which is fully equipped and wherein all specially designed Disston machinery is built and that already installed kept in up-to-date working condition, machinery being discarded irrespective of whether worn out or not as soon as improvement is effected. 11 DISSTON HANDBOOK With the invention and installation of perfected machinery comes a corresponding and direct benefit to the mechanic, both from a physical and financial standpoint, for while there is a greater and better output and consequent increase in earning capacity, the phj^sical strain is lessened and the surroundings more healthful. Forinstance, before oil was introduced for firing the furnaces, the hauling of coal for both the small and large furnaces, the raking and cleaning out of ashes several times a day tended to the raising of dust and causing discomfort, whereas now the shops are kept clean and comfortable, the ground floors being of cement are washed up every week. Metal- lic lockers and enameled iron wash stands are provided on account of their sanitary effect and general improvements made throughout looking to the comfort and well-being of the employees. Showei baths being installed for the use of those employed in the polishing and grinding rooms, whilst in all departments where there is dust — emery, sand, sawdust, shavings, etc., there are large pipes con- nected with exhaust fans which carry the dust out of the buildings and into independent pits. Great care has been taken to obtain the best light and thorough ventilation, special ventilators being provided in such rooms and departments where there is considefable heat. Every precaution is taken to allow egress from the buildings in case of fire, various iron bridges connect the second stories of the different build- ings so that in case of conflagration employees can easily pass from one building to the other and these bridges in connection with the fire escapes are considered as being the best method of procuring safety. In no factory is the well-being of the employees looked a'fter or considered to a greater extent, nor does a better affiliation exist between the employer and employees than in the establishment of Henry Disston & Sons. In connection with this it may be stated that there are twenty-one men having service records of fifty to sixty- two years ; eighty men, forty years and upward ; one hundred and eighty-eight, thirty to forty; three hundred and thirty, twenty to thirty, and six hundred and nine, ten to twenty years, while working beside these 1228 men are more than 2300 younger saw and tool makers of highest skill — very largely sons and grandsons of the older men, which speaks for progressiveness. All the old employees, incapacitated by reason of age are retired under a pension for the remainder of their natural life. " With a firm composed of men practical in their line, work- ing on a policy_ tried and proven, a management fully up to date, a corps of efficient salesmen and an army of competent and skilled workmen, of whom they are justly proud, together with the use of machinery specially invented for various purposes, is there any cause to wonder why the Disston products became so famous and renowned throughout the entire world." 13 DissTON handbook: SINCE ITS INCEPTION THE DISSTON SAW WORKS HAS EVER BEEN IN THE LEAD. WE WKRE THE FIRST To make Crucible Sheet Steel in the United States, And are the only Saw Manufacturers making their own steel for the full line of saws. To build and install an Electric Furnace in the United States, in which Crucible Steel was made. To build and install automatic machines for toothing saws, cutting an average of 1500 teeth per minute, which machines we originated. To build and install automatic machines for toothing graduated rip saws, which machines we originated. To introduce improved process of filing saws. To harden saws under specially designed dies, thus keeping the saws^flat. To temper saws under hot dies, which insures uniformity of temper — owning the first patent in the United States, if being of French origin. To use automatic hammers in smithing saws, which we originated. To use automatic machines for grinding saws, which we originated. To " stiffen" saws, thus restoring the natural spring after being worked upon, which process we originated. To introduce in the United States bandsawing machinery for the cutting of wood in making saw handles, having purchased sample machines at Paris before 1866. To make Machine hacksaw Blades. Saw manufacturers in the United States to make their own Files. In the United States to make Inserted Tooth circular saws for sawing metal. We originated and patented many saws and tools including inserted Teeth for circular saws for cutting both wood and metal, Gullet Tooth circular saws, etc., Cross-cut saws. Skew-back Handsaws, etc., various small saws, new and improved machinery, processes of manufacturing, and in addition to these we have a number of other valuable improvements not patented and which are used exclusively in the Disston Saw Works. 13 OISSTON HANDBOOK FUTURE If earnestness of purpose, coupled with skill, experience and modern facil- ities COUNT- Then the DISSTON BRAND qf SAWS will continue as the STANDARD by which the merits of all other saws &re judged. 14 DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON STEEL Necessarily the strongest material is required for the making of Saws, and that is STEEI^ of Highest Quality. The evidence before us in the great quantity of steel annually produced, the many plants engaged in its manufactuie, the fact that we see it on every iiand and put it easily and familiarly to every use, may lead us in error to assume that Steel of High Quality is readily produced. Not so, however, for it is necessary to combine in " Saw Steel," by the exercise of great care, extreme accuracy and experience, certain and expensive elements or alloys to produce a steel capable of resisting the greatest strain, for each tooth of a good saw m.ust be sufEciently hard to withstand the wear sad retain its sharp edge the longest possible time, yet tough enough to swage readily and perfectly without flaw, hard enough to require force to bend it and at the same time so tough that it will bend without strain or fracture. No chain is stronger than its weakest link, no saw better than its weakest tooth. STEEL, therefore, is required absolutely free from blow-holes, pipes, seams, splits and other physical defects, it must be uniform in hardness — in a word, perfectly hoinogeneous. Steel of 60000 pounds tensile strength, considered perfectly safe for the construction of a boiler, a bridge or building, is not one-third strong enough for the making of a satisfactory saw. After repeated and unsucceasful efforts to procure steel of desired quality, Henry Disston in 1855 erected a Crucible Steel plant expressly adapted to the manufacture of SAW STEEL, and since, by constant effort and unlimited expenditure of time and money in research and improvement of process and machinery, the plant has been IC I>ISSTO]Sr HANDBOOK extended aud enlarged until now it is undoubtedly the largest and best of its kind in the World. Illustrations Nos. 1, 2 and 3 show defects as they originate in the ingot under usual methods. Wo. I Pipe Defect, No. 2 Honey^combing Defect No. 3 Spon^iness. There is also another serious defect which cannot be discovered in the fracture of the steel, and that is "Segregation,'' which is caused especially in large masses of cast steel by a separation of some of the elements from certain portions of the mass segregating or collecting in other portions, thus producing steel that is not homogeneous or uniform, being harder in some parts than in others and weaker in various other parts. In the Disston "Special Process'' this segregation is perfectly overcome by so casting the ingots that the cooling is uniform throughout and by the use of certain Rich Alloys as a mordant in a particular manner known only to a few experienced workmen, 17 DISSTON HANDBOOK No. 4 Sound anS Uniform. enables the productior. of steel perfectly sound, free from blow -holes, sponginess, pipe and all other physical defects, and ABSOLUTEI.Y UNIFORM IN QUALITY. See illustration No. 4. STEEL of High Quality cannot be pro- duced from cheap or inferior material. By the selection of best materials, Swedish refined iron, and carefully melted in plumbago crucibles, the Disston product is of highest quality and superior strength ; a recent test of a sample showing Tensile strength 220,000 lbs. Elastic limit 168,000 " Taken from the mould in which it is cast, the steel ingot in the form of a solid block, in weight 200 to 800 pounds as required, is very carefully inspected, the surface flaws, if any, removed by chipping, the ingot is then very carefully heated and hammered to a " saw slab " of dimensions as required. After again being very carefully inspected it is sent to the mill for rolling into plate or plates. Here again great care must be used in the heating and working, for large ' ' saw plate ingots ' ' of considerable size must be drawn to large dimensions without injury to the quality of the steel. As the steel itself is hard and tough, mills of enormous strength and nicety of working parts are essential to produce saw plates of uniformity, avoiding the injurious strains that careless rolling and working may often develop. After the plate is rolled it is very carefully heated to a certain uniform temperature to soften it and bring it to a condition of uniformity. It is then pressed under dies and flattened, after which it is carefully trimmed and inspected. If passed, it is then sent to the Saw Shop for the operations of making into a saw. 18 DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON PATENT GULLET-TOOTH CIRCULAR SAW. ii;it;ii)i)>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ tjc^c ■ 'iiiij,;, With over seventy-eight years' experience in saw-making, l)y constant watchfulness and application, we have acquired a thorough knowledge of the requirements of all kinds of saws and achieved a state of perfection in material, machinery, methods and workmanship justifying the claim that Disston Saws arp superior to all others. It is our determination to maintain the high standard of our goods established for so many years. EVERY SAW BEARING THE BRAND OF HENRY DISSTON & SONS IS FULLY WARRANTED. 19 DISSTON HANDBOOK THE MAKING ef Disston Solid Tooth Circular Saws. Rolling Circular Plate. Holing, Toothing and Filing Circular Saws or "Getting-out" Department. The " Plates," trimmed round, are sent by the Steel Mill to the Saw Department, and the first operation is cutting in the center -hole, which is done on a drill-press. The plate is then "Toothed" on a special press, there being different presses, each of which is adapted for certain sizes and thicknesses of plates. The teeth are now 20 DISSTON HANDBOOK Hardening Circular Saws. " Dressed " by hand or emery-wheel, then follows the " Hardening " which is done on similar lines to other Disston saws, excepting the furnaces and baths for this work are necessarily a great deal larger. This applies also to the " Tempering " so far as heating is concerned, for, since the photogiaph, as shown, was made, a special apparatus has Tempering Circular Saws. been invented by which more uniform and better results are obtained than from the former method. The blade is now ready for " Smithing," under which- process it is straightened, leveled and trued up by hand, making it perfectly flat and even. Then comes the " Grinding " which is done on machines designed specially for the purpose, some of which have single and others double stones. Taking the double-stone machine, the blade is 21 DISSTON HANDBOOK Smithing, Hammering and Blocking Circular Saws. Grinding Circular Saws. placed on a spindle, and while revolving, is run back and forth between the stones and both sides ground at the same time, the machine being of such a character that it will grind to a true and perfect taper, that is from thin on tooth-edge to thick towards the centre or collar-line, or vice versa, or it may be arranged to grind an 22 DISSTON HANDBOOK even thickness throughout as required. In the use of these machines perfect grinding and true balance of the saws are insured. These machines, originated, invented and installed in the Disston Works, marked a revolution in circular saw grinding and enabled the production of saws of uniform thickness throughout. The blade is now ' ' Examined ' ' and if fully up to the Disston Standard is passed for the ' ' finish Grinding, ' ' after which it is " Polished;" being adjusted on a face-plate which is revolved at a suitable speed and by a series of rubbing and dusting with emery the high polish is obtained. in the " Blocking," which follows, the blade is again examined and given the proper tension for the speed at which the saw is to run. This is done by hammering, for, in a circular saw, "tension " means having the centre sufficiently " open " to offset centrifugal force when the saw is revolved up to high speed, thus keeping the edge strained on a true line, otherwise the saw would not run smoothly or' cut straight. The teeth are now "dressed" on an automatic saw- sharpener, thus insuring uniformity of teeth and roundness of blade. The "Swaging" or "Setting of Teeth " is now in order. Some SWAGED circular saws have the teeth " put in order" by swaging, or TEETH, "spreadset, " others by spring-setting. In swaging, a Conqueror ■ Swage is placed in proper position on the tooth and by the application of light blows of a hammer the cutting-edge of , tooth is upset or shaped according to the work required, swaging being the spreading of the points of the teeth so they extend beyond each side of the blade for clearance of the body of the saw while cutting and to prevent friction. Qpj.,«Q With the swaged tooth, each corner of the tooth cuts, ggj hence will do twice the work in comparison with a spring-set tooth which cuts only half the kerf, the swage! tooth, consequently, will stand more "feed." Swaging is also accomplished by the use of an Eccentric Swage in which pressure is brought to bear on the tooth by means of a lever. In ' ' Spring-setting" the points of the teeth are bent, one to the right, the next to the left, and so on alternately throughout the entire saw, which serves for the purpose of obtaining clearance. The process of " Sharpening " follows. This is done on automatic machines and by hand-filing, careful attention being given to bringing up each tooth keen and sharp. The Saw is now given a final inspection, then " Etched " with the Disston Brand, and is complete. 23 DISSTON HANDBOOK STYLES OF TEETH. The illustration below represents the general Styles of Teeth for Circular Saws, from which selection may be made of the kind desired. These cuts show shape onhr, the teeth being made in various sizes. Solid Tooth Saws. Teeth Nos. 2, 4, 5 and 17 are for Cross- cutting ; Nos. 11, 12, 13 and 14 for Ripping; Nos. 1, 6 and 8 for Cross-cutting or Ripping; No. 18 for Mitreing or Cross-cutting. The "Slotted Rim" is adapted to to any pattern of Solid Tooth saw. The slots allow for expansion and contraction in rim of blade, thus lessening the risk of breakage particularly in oper- ating circular cut-off saws. Special patterns of Solid Tooth saws made to order. Inserted Tooth Saws. The Chisel Point is the best form of inserted tooth for general mill use. No. 10 is used principally on the Pacific Coast. No. 16 for thin saws, re-sawing, etc. The American, Trenton, Prosser, Dunbar and Goulding are styles formerly made by the American Saw Co. w SLOTTED RIM. 24 DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON STANDARD GAUGE. The Disston Gauge corresponds exactljr with the Stubbs and Birmingham Gaugesi, LIST OF EQUIVALENTS OF GAUGES. APPROXIMATE STUBBS, AMERICAN or BROWN £ SHARP OAUGE. FRACTIONAL PART OF INCH. MILLIMETERS. BIRMINGHAM or DISSTON LONDON. mti Scant .340 .32495 .340 1 i%.t Full 7.62 .300 .28930 .300 2 %2 Full 7.21 .284 .25763 .284 3 i%4 Scant 6.57 .259 .22942 .259 4 W«4 Full 6.04 .288 .20431 .238 5 %2 Full 5.59 .220 .18194 .220 6 i%4 Scant 5.18 .203 .16202 .203 7 •%6 Scant 4.57 .180 .14428 .180 8 "/o4 Scant 4.19 .165 .12849 .165 9 %4 Full 3.76 .148 .11443 .148 10 Va Full 3.40 .134 .10189 .134 11 1/8 Scant 3.05 .120 .09074 .120 12 %4 ■ 2.77 ;i09 .08081 .109 13 %2 Full 2.41 .095 .07196 .095 14 %4 Full 2.10 .088 .06408 .083 15 %4. Scant 1.82 • .072 .05706 .072 16 ViG Full 1.65 ."065 ■ .05082 .065 17 i/ii) Scant 1.47 .058 .04525 .058 18 ■Ih- Full 1.24 .049 .04030 .049 19 •)(i4 Scant 1.06 .042 .03589 .040 20 1/33 Full .89 .035 .03196 .035 21 .81 .032 .02846 .0315 22 .71 .028 .025347 .0295 23 .64 .025 .022571 .027 24 .56 .022 .0201 .025 25 .51 .020 .0179 .023 26 .46 .018 .01594 .0205 27 %4 .41 .016 .014195 .01875 28 .36 .014 .012641 .0165 29 .33 .018 .011257 .0155 30 .30 .012 .010025 .01875 31 .010 .008928 .01225 32 .009 .00795 .01125 25 DISSTON HANDBOOK < Q < E I H E O < Q < E H U n .■J-t a ft O 13 tn . X rt (U n:^ ^ a CJ a ■r-l 1 a c o o -r-> 01 »-H o, ... 1) a a '35 a .2 13 g 0) +j ■^ ■*-» o CI a .a j3 o ^ J W cd f> ■3 "b pl Ji T3 j=i ,i3 e (jj P< 1h a m a O !2 a o In t3 cti 1=1 bi n 3 _g > a u o 01 It PI o "So a •4H u ,d cti Oh <— t T— 1 Q M •*-> ^ u ^ a ■♦-» a tn ■4' % PL, bo _n t3 s tn s o o o ■4-J ^-( o tn Oh ^2 a ct! a> dj ^ •T-t ^ !3 fl 3 -a t3 h CS o 4-* in t4-l a a 'a l-l tu cu tn Ctl tn tn tu 4:1 .9 >^ ii a A 1<-I o .2 u 1 "3 (3 o o i 4-» a 3 .—1 tn «0 V • •* a > r> cl n 3 o a tn tn M 01 o 41 ^1 (U +5 tn n O O u +-» O a tn J2 a -a ^1 1-1 01 a a S a & tn OJ dj 11 a ^ ^ a . It is plain to 'be seen that by filing back on the dotted line CCC the saw has been reduced in diameter only from dotted line £ to F, while by filing from the top of the tooth the reduction will be as shown by dbtted Uiies from ^ to Z>. . i This shows that by filing on top five times as much of the saw has been wasted as by proper filing. This difiiculty is overcome by the use of the Gullet tooth, as represented by cut Fig. 6. Fig. 5 shows the outlines of both straight tooth and the gullet tooth ; by using the latter only a small space is left to file and gives no excuse for filing o» top. 41 DISSTON HANDBOOK \» Illustration of Tooth after cutting 300,000 feet of Lumber. F/O.S. The above cut represents a section of our gullet-tooth saw (kept in order by Chambering Machine) after cutting 300,000 feet of hem- lock lumber. Dotted line D and point A show the original diameter of the saw ; dotted line E and point C show the saw after cutting the above amount of lumber, only reducing the length of teeth three- sixty-fourths of an inch, as can be plainly seen between dotted lines D and E. According to this, a fifty-inch saw will cut 6,000,000 feet and only reduce the diameter of saw to forty-eight inches, showing the great advantage derived by using our Patent Tooth and Gummer. The accompanying cut is a fac- simile of the condition of the teeth of a large circular saw sent to our factory to be gummed. The owners had been using some gummer upon the saw, which actually did more harm than good ; as shown by line B the ragged throat so obstructed the circulation of saw dust that the parties were com- pelled to send it to the factory to be gummed out. Dotted line C shows the condition the gullet would have been in had our chambering machines been used upon it. , Bad Chambering. RBDUCEID TO 01?E1-EL&I.S> NATORAI. SIZB. 42 DISSTON HANDBOOK Figs. 7 and 8 show, by periphery lines, the difference in the wear of the saw. We will here remark that it is of the greatest importance to file back on these periphery lines. It will be seen by this tooth the point on the face is very small. The smaller it is the less filing it takes to keep it sharp. One stroke of the file on this point will effect more than ten strokes on the face of a tooth that has to be kept back from point to bottom of gullet ; and when there is so little point to keep FIG. 7. Teeth for Soft Wood. back, it will be found easier to sharpen the saw from the face than to file from the top, and a saving in the diameter of saw is effected. When we know the kind of lumber to be sawn, the speed, feed and capacity of mill, we will make the teeth best suited for the work, save waste of saw and extra time it would require to keep unsuitable FIG.S. Teeth for Hard Wood. teeth in order. For instance, for one-inch feed, we would not recom- mend over twenty-four teeth and should not (where our gummer is used) give over one-and-a-quarter-inch depth of tooth, for a five-inch feed, not less than fifty teeth, and depth to correspond ; for a three-inch feed, we would give thirty-two teeth. FIG. 9. 4 The gullets of the saw should be chambered out, or gummed as soon as the teeth have been worn back enough to allow the file to strike the back of the chamber as shown in Fig. 9, tooth A. Tooth B shows full gullet. 43 DISSTON HANDBOOK THE VICTOR PATENT SELF.FEEDING SAW GUMMER. Fig. 1. Adjusted to Gum Circular Saws. We call special attention to this machine, as being superior to any- other gunimer on the market ; a fact which will prove itself upon trial. The ^'ictor is made of the veiy best material ; the lighter parts being of malleable iron and the shaft of steel, making it lighter and at the same time stronger than other gummers . Its simplicity of construction makes it unnecessary to give any instruction for use, as an exam- ination of the cuts will enable anybody to operate it. The Victor will gum all saws, from a small circular saw, with a 3/s inch gullet, to the largest made, with 1}^ inch gullet ; also all mill, mulay and cross-cut saws. Fig. No. 1 shows the Victor gummer in position for work on a sixty-inch circular saw, and No. 2 on a mill or mulay Saw. The self-feeding mechanism can be regulated to fast or slow speed without any change of parts, and the machine can be changed from hand to self feed in an instant. The adjustable stop throws out the feed pawl at any required depth of tooth. This gummer is fitted DISSTON HANDBOOK THE VICTOR PATENT SELF-FEEDING SAW GUMMER. Fig. 2. Adjusted to Gum Mill or Mulay Saws. with three sizes of arbor. In ordering be sure to state which size is wanted. Tlie large size is suitable for the following cutters : 1 inch, 1^ inch, lj{ inch, 1^ inch, and 1}^ inch. The medium size is suitable for }4 inch, ^ inch, ^ inch, and ^ inch cutters. The small size is suitable for ^ inch cutters. Each gumnier sent complete with one arbor of either size, three cutters, cutter grinder and wrench. Additional arbors furnished extra price. For range of work this machine has no superior. GUMMER CUTTERS. When ordering state size of cutter and arbor hole. 45 DISSTON HANDBOOK No. 1 PATENT DOUBLE=GEARED SAW •,« GUMMFR. OR CHAMBERING MACHINE ."^^fl FOR LARCih t FRC IT \R S \^ S. \ " \ Cutter-Grind 1 n. If I I 1 II II DIRECTIONS FOR USING. Before using the gummer see that the oil holes are clear. A few drops of oil will be sufficient for from three to five hours' use. After using the gummer remove the chips or turnings that accumulate back of the cutter. If allowed to remain they will cause trouble by getting into the working parts of the machine. Run the cutter back by means of screw G as far as necessary. Then place the machine on the saw, with the cutter close up in the chamber of the tooth to be gummed. If the teeth are regular and the same distance apart, start the cutter in any chamber ; but if they are irregular, make them even by commencing in the smallest tooth. After gumming the saw a few times the teeth must become regular. ^ is a set screw to regulate the depth of gullet. Fasten the machine to the saw by means of the screw BB, and proceed to gum the first tooth, one of the points of the star being struck at each revolution by a projection on the handle the cutter is steadily fed in until arrested by set screw £. Remove the machine to the next tooth, after having run the cutter back and proceed as before until all the teeth are gummed. Should the gullet or chamber be worn smooth, and the cutter fail to bite, rough the gullet with a file. The cutter is so arranged as to slide on its axis, and when one portion becomes dull, by removing a washer from back to front, a new sharp cutting surface will be presented, so continuing to change the washers until the whole face of the cutter becomes dull. 46 DissTonsr handbook To take the cutter off the shaft, put the pin, hanging to *he gummer, in the hole in the ratchet wheel, to keep the shaft from turning while unscrewing the nut, which has a left-hand' thread. The hand wheel on end of feed screw, outside of the star, is to allow the operator to feed easily and gently with the hand when starting in to cut rough guUets, until the cutter gets a bearing, when by tightening the jam-nut on opposite side of star, the machine is made self-feeding. The rachet by which the cutter is moved, effectually prevents any back motion, which has hitherto been a serious objection. This gummer is a most invaluable machine, and should be in the hands of every mill-man. It saves power, files and time, and is so simple in its mode of operation that any one of ordinary intelligence can be taught to use it. We pronounce this the best gummer ever manufactured. CUTTER GRINDER FOR HOLDING THE CUTTER OF CHAMBERING MACHINE IN POSITION DURING PROCESS OF SHARPENING. To Grind the Cutters the stone should have a perfectly straight face and turn from the operator. Lower the adjustable frame of grinder until the cutter touches the stone, then adjust spring in proper position. When properly adjusted, the backs of teeth of cutters can be ground so the cutting edge will be a little the highest and the cutters round and shaip. Furnished with either No. 1, 2 or 3 (Pin) shaft. 47 DISSTON HANDBOOK LIST OF PARTS OF VICTOR SAW GUMMER. 1, Plate; 2, Shaft; 3, No. 1 Rachet; 4, Wrench ; 5, Brass Gauge ; 6, No. 2 Ratchet Spring ; 7, Feed Screw ; 8, Stop Gauge ; 9, Stop ; 10, Crank ; 11, Throw ; 12, No. 1 Ratchet Spring ; 13, Stand ; 14, No. 1 Pawl ; 15, Ball Lever ; 16, Carriage ; 17, Ball Lever Spring; 18, Long Clamp; 19, No. 2 Pawl; 20, Short Clamp; 21, No. 2 Feed Ratchet ; 22, Cam. LIST OF PARTS OF No. 1 SAW GUMMER. 1. Star; 2, Arm; 3, F'rame ; 4, Large Wrench; 5, Small Wrench; 6, Swivel Bearing ; 7, Left Hand Crank ; 8, Cutter Shaft ; 9, Feed Screw ; 10, Crank Shaft ; 11, Gauge ; 12, Gauge ; 13, Swivel Nut ; 14, Cross Handle ; 15, Right Hand Crank, 16, Ratchet; 17, Ratchet Spring ; 18, Large Gear Wheel ; 19, Pawl ; 20, Out Bear- ing; 21, Wrought Iron Gauge ; 22, Collar for Feed Screw. When ordering, specify the No. of part wanted, whether for Victor or No. 1 Gummer. 48 DISSTON HANDBOOK .52 SJ3 4) c «! -2-n u ^^+J -^ two d •a •n I; +J O u o = 0)0^0 D"C S CTl) o^xi oil o rt ^ 01 a & cs 4i Soiaa 1-. o a CU +-' OJ Q,5 Kr. S ■*-' •^ "s ci nl a U-. la 'S "3 -S tJ J3 ag (u B o J2 '^ J3 5.S^ n _ a* crci. J! (u I' o a> bo iH "< ■ o W1S < u o u D a z o u b) o .■a - ^ - o a '3 p. OJ ^ (U iH ^ C, =3 [n [> *^ bo (U ' "^ ,G I. WOO, OJ a S,g5 c " g <3 e 25 euS o o « 9 boo P bo m n ■3 V in bo S; . bo"*" c3 o5" I (0 u. o I u > o I s H < D W O H W U N *^ (A H Z b) e« u b. b< bO-o- bO'S °« & (U rt S 0) ^ +j .i: -^ T) ^ a> a ^ a M-( o a a ^ "^ o XI rt «J ^ vh bo a d ta ■g 3 a! O J3 "s^l ^ at; 0.1 +j U +j C o 0,3 Eo p. ■ b) a-a j3 o: I.J3 57^ * ^ a ° -ti ^ S dj _;' in (i,ia biD rH •a-S "= « u g-^ « dj ra > a P H ° »i > 5 .5 P.Tn V 4, O'- ^"S -= ■►J boo tn lu.SZS •^ PH O m a hH 49 DissTOisr handbook: THE MAKING ef a Disston Inserted Tooth Circular Saw. All "Plates" for Inserted Tooth Circular Saws are made under the same processes as those for Solid Tooth Saws, with the following additional operations: The plate, in which the sockets have been cut, is sent to the In- serted Tooth Department, where it is thoroughly inspected. If true and round, it is ready for the first operation — that of milling the V Milling Solid Tooth Metal Saws on? Cutting Sockets in plates for Inserted Tooth Saws. projection on the edge of socket. This is done on special machines de- signed and built in the Disston Works, which insure uniformity and exactness throughout. The "Holder" or "Shank" is cut out of steel, of suitable thick- ness, in the form required. This steel blank, is now forged and flat- tened to gauge, then placed in a miUing machine and grooved on lines to fit the V projection of the socket ; after which it is stamped with the number designating the particular style or pattern. Testing for di- ameter of circle takes place; then follows the milling of the head and the grooving of top, in which rests the bottom of "Point." It is now inspected for "ball" as well as size and shape, and, if correct, .is "Har- dened" and "Tempered" under special processes to a spring temper, its function being, as its name implies, to hold the point or bit in place. The Holder is now critically tested and gauged. The "Tooth," usually termed "Point" or "Bit," is drop-forged to shape and at the same time an impression is made thereon of num- bers designating the style and gauge of the tooth. This forging is an- nealed for trimming; thoroughly inspected and if properly filled up 50 DISSTON HANDBOOK Forging Teeih for Inserted Tooth Circular Saws. to shape is ready for the next operation. Any improperly forged, that is not filled up at the heel or other parts, are thrown out as scrap. The forging is "trimmed," "formed," then "ground" to remove the surplus stock, and "side-dressed," after which it is "hardened" and "tempered" under the Disston process. It is now passed through the final "grinding and sharpening" operation. Each "Tooth" is accurately tested for uniformity of width of cutting-edge, thickness and shape, and only those strictly correct in each detail are passed. So rigid are the rules in this respect that the gauges themselves, used for testing, are inspected every week. All the regular Disston Points and Holders are made to standard gauges, each inserted tooth circular saw is given a number, of which a record is kept at the factory, for the purpose of supplying duplicate points and holders when required. DISSTON PATENT CHISEL-TOOTH CIRCULAR SAW. (rBducbd size) 51 DISSTON HANDBOOK Inserted Tooth, Chisel-Point Circular Saws Inserted tooth saws were first introduced with the object of pre- serving the diameter. The first patterns were crude affairs, consisting of square pieces' of steel set in the rim of the blade and secured with a rivet. Scores of designs were presented from time to time, each possessing some im- provement in the shape of the teeth and means for securing them. Later inventions sought to facilitate the removal of the worn out teeth and the insertion of new ones. We manufacture different forms of Inserted Tooth Saws, some of which are illustrated and described in- this Handbook. The highest development of the art is the improved Chisel-Point Saw shown in cut, which comprises everything desirable in the method of securing the teeth in the blade by means of rotary locking Holders or Shanks, requiring but a few moments to replace the teeth. This is done with- out making the slightest alteration in the tension of the blade. 59 DISSTON HANDBOOK The 1902 style provides ample throat room and clearance to suit all classes of work to which this pattern of saw is applicable. These Chisel-Point Saws are constructed on scientific principles, and to secure perfection, special machinery is employed. The Points and Holders in each size are exact duplicates, and" when ordered in accordance with instructions, are guaranteed to fit. USES OF CHISEL-POINT SAWS. Chisel-Point Saws are unexcelled for board saws in saw mills, from the smallest water power to the largest steam mills employing indepen- dent steam and shot-gun feeds — for gang edging saws, lath bolter saws, lath saws, clapboard saws, boxboard saws, bench saws and rift saws. HOW TO ORDER CHISEL-POINT SAWS. Full directions and a list of particulars necessary to order saws of this description will be found on pages 24, 26. These particulars should be carefully given, and in cases where the gauge and number of teeth are left to our judgment, it is necessary to specify the horse power available to drive the saw, the speed both in and out of the cut, the greatest feed in inches per revolution, the kind of timber to be sawed, and the daily capacity of the mill. It is essential to give the exact size of centre hole. If the centre hole is altered after the saw leaves our hands it is liable to throw the saw out of round and consequently out of balance. • THE TEETH. These are made in several • sizes to suit different classes of work and the kind of timber grown in various localities. The popular sizes are Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 4J and 6. No. 1 being the largest, is designed principally for the heavy timbers of the Pacific Coast. The No. 4^ and No. 6 are the smallest sizes, permitting the insertion of the maximum number of teeth for board saw mills carry- ing high feeds and also being suitable for edgers, bolters and lath saws. For general sawing, hard and soft woods, in small and medium- sized mills the No. 33 pattern cannot be excelled. This size is also used for rift saws, heavy edger saws, and bench saws. TheNo. 44 pattern is suitable for board saws, edger and bench saws. The No. 2 pattern is used largely in the firs and pines of the Pacific Coast, is useful for general sawing of both hard and soft woods where a greater amount of throat room is desired than the No. 3 provides. This is a good all around tooth and has proven its efficiency in the Southern States and in the Middle West. 53 DISSTON HANDBOOK HOLDERS. In sawing sandy or gritty logs, the edges of the inner circles of the holders are liable to wear and become rounded. This permits a portion of the dust to pass down between the side of the saw and the log, instead of being properly chambered and carried out of the cut. The tendency then is to create friction and heat, which is detrimental to good work. To prevent this, the edges of the inner circles of the holders should be filed across and kept square. Holders which have become thin from long usage should be discarded and replaced. The swaged pattern of holder, which is one-and-one-half gauges heavier in the throat than the sawplate proper, will be supplied if speci- fied. Holders of the Swaged and Slotted pattern are made in all sizes for those who prefer the slotted pattern of holder, SPECIAL HOLDERS. vVhen the sockets holding the shanks are worn large, it is advisable to order the special sizes of shanks or holders designed to take up this wear. There are two special sizes; one is -j-V and the other -^" larger in the circle than regular. Unless shanks fit snugly, they are liable to break or cause the points to break. A shank that has become strained or compressed through accident can be expanded by removing it from the saw, lay- ing it on an anvil, and striking it sharply on both sides, on the inner circle; consequently there is no reason for the shanks or bits ever fit- ting loosely. It must be noted, however, in hammering the shank, unless an even number of blows are struck on each side, the shank will be bent out of shape. GUIDES. MiHmen often make the mistake of setting the Guides too close to the rim when operating Inserted Tooth Saws. This is an important item, and the operator should see that the guides CLEAR THE HOL- DERS by at least one-quarter of an inch, otherwise the saw will run unsteadily and the holders and points will be turned out of place. INSERTING NEW POINTS. Oil the grooves carefully. Place the new point or bit squarely on the head of the shank. If the point should not turn into position readily, lift the wrench enough to permit the ball or head of the holder to assume its proper place in the point; then start again and the point will be found to move steadily into position. Do not use undue force, the stops should meet lightly, and no additional pressure should be applied to the wrench when the heel of the bit has reached the shoulder. SHARPENING CHISEL-POINTS. The points or bits should be sharpened or filed without taking them out of the saw, thereby preventing unnecessary wear. The tem- per of these points is such that they may be sharpened by the use of a good file. The following illustration shows the File specially designed for this purpose. 54 DISSTON HANDBOOK CHISEL-POINT FILE. Made 8, 9 and 10 inches in length. Most of the filing should be done on the front or the throat of the tooth. It is only necessary to file enough on the back to remove the burr. Very little work is required to sharpen points. Care should be exercised to keep the cutting edge at right angles to the side of the saw. Do not use a square cornered file, as this will leave a sharp nick under the point. A bit left in this condition is liable to break and injure the blade. ^ -4(j^ No. 1 shows the point when new. No. 2 shows the point when it has been properly filed until worn out. No. 3 shows the point improp- erly filed, which method weakens it. Should a bit be broken by accident, the new one must be dressed to the length and width of those in the saw. SWAGING POINTS. If the bits are to be swaged, the work should be done with a light hammer, drawing out the corners just enough to square the points; then the set should be dressed by a side file. Relieve the corners so as to give proper clearance. In swaging, be careful not to strike hard enough to upset the shoulder or strain the shank, for the saw is liable to be ruined in this manner. A section of saw containing one tooth, for use in a vise when swaging points, will be supplied at a small cost. DRESSING POINTS. Particular attention is called to the necessity for keeping the cut- ting edges of the points widest. It is desired that this important item may not be lost sight of, since most complaints may be traced to a disregard of this requirement. If the points are filed so that they are wider behind the cutting edges than on the extreme corners, good work cannot be accomplished. The following diagrams, No. 6, No. 7, and No. 8, were taken from bits removed from saws, concerning which complaint was made. The reason is at once apparent. Diagrams 55 DISSTON HANDBOOK No. 4 and No. 5 show two styles of side dressing, either of which is good, depending on the class of work in hand. The spread or swage should be distributed evenly on both sides of the saw. ff IfT No. 4. No. a. No. e. No. 7. No. S. WIDTH OF CUTTING-EDGE. Chisel-Points are made in various widths of cutting-edge. A small booklet, containing a list of these sizes, will be supplied on ap- plication. The regular width is furnished, unless directions are given to the contrary. The booklet mentioned gives full instructions on this particular. FROZEN TIMBER. Before starting to cut frozen timber, equip the saw with a new set of swaged holders, laying the old ones aside for Summer sawing. This expenditure will be found a paying investment. The swaged holder is a gauge and a half heavier in the throat than the sawplate proper, and is designed to hold and carry out of the cut the finest dust, which would, otherwise, pass down the side of the saw, freeze to the log, and force the saw out of line. For Winter work it is not desirable to use a side file, which will leave flat places on the sides of the points parallel to the sides of the saw. Should a side file be used, be careful to see that the bits are relieved behind the points to the extreme edge. To do successful work in this class of sawing the corners must be sharp. It is possible to use narrower bits than in Summer sawing. In some sizes a special short bit, particularly designed for Winter work, is made. This short bit is illustrated and described in the pamphlet "'Chisel-Points and Holders." A number of our customers operate chisel-point saws very suc- cessfully in Winter by using worn points, discarded during the Sum- mer months ; they should be selected in sets of even length so that the saw will be round. The old points may be swaged a trifle. Use no more set than is absolutely necessary. Taper back nicely from the points by careful side dressing, have the teeth widest at the extreme points, and do not allow the corners to become round, or the saw will dodge out of the cut, particularly in slabbing. The corners next to the log do most of the cutting, and soon become dull in frozen timber, consequently it is necessary to watch for this very particularly, before the saw is allowed to run out of the cut and become strained or buckled. 56 DISSTOlSr HANDBOOK No. 33 CHISEL TOOTH (full size) DIRECTIONS FOR ORDERING CHISEL-POINTS AND HOLDERS. Every Chisel- Tooth Saw of our manufacture has a shop number^ which will be found directly under our brand, midway between the eye and the rim. Invariably give this number when ordering points and holders. When there is the slightest doubt about sizes, or gauges, or where the shop number cannot be obtained, send a sample tooth or holder (an old one will answer) with the order. The gauge of both teeth and holders should be the same as the saw plate (except in special cases), and this may be determined by applying a Disston Standard Wire Gauge, which corresponds exactl3 to the Stubbs or English Wire Gauge. To fill an order properly, we require to know the size of the tooth, the gauge and the width at cutting edge. Teeth of standard width of cutting-edge are always sent unless otherwise specified. The size of the Holders or Shanks always corresponds with the size of the Teeth used. If No. 33-8 gauge teeth are used, the proper size of Holder to order is No. 33-8 gauge.. In instances of special styles, specify the pattern stamped on Holder in addition to Number and Gauge of tooth, also whether solid, swaged or swaged and slotted. IMPORTANT NOTICE. When returning Chisel-Tooth Saws for repairs, please leave all the teeth and holders in place, for they are needed in adjusting the tension. Unless teeth and holders are returned we shall supply a new set at regular prices. Be sure to mark the name of the shipper on the case for purposes of identification. 57 DISSTON HANDBOOK No. 10 TOOTH. This tooth is sometimes termed the Spaulding Tooth, and is used principally in heavy mills on the Pacific Coast. The No. 10 Tooth is made in three sizes suitable for small, medium and large timber. INSERTED TOOTH RE-SAWS. No. I6 PATTERN. The difficulty occasioned by wearing down or reduction in diameter of re-saws, has created a demand for an inserted tooth saw of this class and to supply this want, we are now making re-saws with the improved re-saw inserted tooth, of which the following cut is a representation. The advantages claimed for this style of saw are numerous, the most important of which is that the original diameter of the saw is retained. This point will readily be seen by all practical operators and sawyers; for the saw must be the proper diameter and thickness at rim and centre to give the best results ; if the diameter is decreased, the periphery or cutting edge is brought closer to the heavy centre or flange of saw, not only cutting out a heavier kerf, but bringing an undue strain upon both saw and machine and causing the pieces being sawed to take a short, sharp spring-off, and in sawing short stuff where flanged saws are used, the flange or collar, by its close proximity to cutting edge of saw, splits a portion of piece from the bolt instead of sawing it, giving very unsatisfactory results both as to quality and quantity 58 DISSTON HANDBOOK of work done. Therefore, if the saw is right at the start, by retaining original thickness and size, these difficulties are entirely obviated, and to do this, inserted tooth saws must be used, or the solid tooth must frequently be replaced. INSERTED TOOTH SAW, No. I6. This saw can be made in gauges from 12 to 17 at the rim. By replacing the teeth when they are worn out the saw is practically renewed at a very trifling expense. These saws are no experiment, they have been used for years with satisfactory and economical results, and we give the same warranty with them that we give on all goods bearing our brand. 59 DISSTON HANDBOOK INSERTED TOOTH SAWS. AMERICAN SAW CO.'S DESIGNS. We continue to manufacture and supply all of the styles of Inserted Tooth Saws and the teeth, bits, springs, or holders for same, formerly made by the American Saw Company, of Trenton. "TRENTON 1894." We are prepared to supply the American Tooth, the Trenton Tooth regular, the Trenton Tooth 1894 style, the Brooke Bit and Spring, the Dunbar Tooth, the Risdon Tooth, the High Speed Tooth, the Pros- ser Tooth, and the Goulding Bit. These teeth are sharpened and dressed the same as a Solid Tooth Saw, and the directions in this Hand- book for the dressing of Solid Tooth Saws will apply. The teeth are all ribbed on the back to lessen the amount of swaging necessary. When sharpening, the same cutting angles should be preserved, and the gullets kept round, either with a round file or by the use of a proper gummer. When changing teeth, first drive them into position by placing a swage on the cutting edge and striking a blow with a light hammer. Care should be exercised not to expand the rim of the saw by riveting too tightly, for if this operation is not properly done the tension of the saw will be destroyed. It is only necessary to rivet enough to secure the tooth firmly. The surplus metal must then be chipped off with a cold chisel in order that it may not interfere with the running of the saw. For those who prefer this form of Inserted Tooth Saw to the Chisel Point, the Trenton Tooth 1894 style is recommended. The Trenton Tooth is made in two sizes, No. 1 (large) and No. 2 (small). 60 DISSTON HANDBOOK Inserted Diamond Tooth Circular STONE SAW. ^iJ^:.^^m THE LARGEST EVER MADE. 100 inches diameter. Y^ inch thick. 800 lbs. weight. 180 teeth, in each of which is embedded a diamond. 61 DISSTON HANDBOOK SHINGLE AND HEADING SAWS. tysf- •60 Q Left-hand Right-hand When ordering Shingle Saws, give full specifications, as follows; Diarneter of saw in inches, thickness, or gauge at centre, thickness or gauge at rim, number of teeth, right or left-hand, speed of saw. If we are to.furnish the flange, state size of. machine and maker's name, or send correct and full templet of old flange, giving size and location of holes. If we are, to furnish the saw only, send the flange to us that we may fit it to the saw. If you cannot forward the flange send templet of holes and sample of screw by which to drill and countersink saw. See cut above. SCREWS FOR SHINGLE SAWS. Particular attention is called to the import- ance of using screws that are suitable to the thick- ness of the saw; we frequently receive screws as samples by which to drill and countersink, that have heads entirely too large for the thickness of saw, and which require the flange to be coun- tersunk (as shown in Fig. 1), thereby reducing the length of thread in flange, making it impossi- ble to bind the saw firmly to the flange. Fig. 2 shows the correct size the screw heads should be, thus getting a good bearing for the screw heads on countersink in saw and the full thickness of flange is retained for thread. In no case should the screw heads be deeper Fig. I. than thickness of saw. Thin saws require smaller screw heads than thick saws. 62 DISSTON HANDBOOK FLANGES OR COLLARS FOR SHINGLE AND HEADING SAWS. The Flanges to which shingles saws are attached are usually made of cast-iron and are necessarily much heavier and stiffer than the saws. This being the case it is perfectly manifest that if the faces of the flanges are not true no saw, no matter how accurately ground or hammered, will be flat or true when screwed fast to a stiff, untrue flange; nor can any saw reasonably be expected to do good work under such circum- stances. Cast-iron flanges are easily and frequently sprung out-of-true when "shingle bolts" break loose from the dogs and are jammed between the saw and frame of machine. All flanges should be carefully examined before new saws are put on them and if a flange shows out-of-true, it should be sent to the factory for correction. It is always a good plan to send the old flanges when ordering new saws, then if the flanges are sprung, the manufac- turer will correct the trouble, the charge for which will be merely nominal and nothing in comparison with the amount that might be wasted in time and material trying to run perfect saws on imperfect flanges, besides running the risk of ruining the saws. ^SN ^ ^N \ A 63 DISSTOX HANDBOOK SET GAUGE FOR SHINGLE. VENEER AND HEADING SAWS. The illustration represents gauge for regulating amount of set for shingle, heading and jointer saws. As shown, the gauge is a sim- ple contrivance, having three set screws and two projecting arms, and is operated from flat side of saw. The amount of set required being known, it is an easy matter to adjust; thus — ^First adjust gauge to flat side of saw by use of bottom screw and side arms, then turn upper or gauge screw on left hand side until it rests lightly on side of plate or tooth before it has been set, then reverse gauge screw until the amount of set wanted is shown .LLUSTRATION ONE-HALF «TUAL SIZE. between end of screw and tooth; fasten in this position by the jam on screw, then adjust right side of gauge in same manner, and tool is ready for use. VENEERING SAWS IN SEGMENTS. ., \ .-« ^lol ;iCMNAt.^=3ViN!<. .-, -Kt^ Left-hand. Right-hand. Segment-Saws are used both for re-sawing boards and planks into thinner stock, and for cutting veneers, but since the advent of the Band Re-saw, the segment saw is used principally for sawing veneers. Usually the stock from which the veneers are cut is very valuable 64 DISSTON HANDBOOK wood, therefore manufacturers save as much of the stock as possible by reducing the saw kerf to the finest practicable width. To do this, a large cast iron plate or flange is used to make up the centre of saw, the segments being attached to the flange by countersunk screws. The segments, when new, are from 12 to 15 inches deep, usually 7 or 8 gauge at the heel and taper to 19 gauge or thinner on the toothed edge. The countersunk side of the whole saw is flat ; all the taper of flange and segments being on the other side of the saw. The veneer being only one-eighth inch or less in thickness readily springs away from the thick part of flange;, leaving it practically free from friction and heat which, while less detrimental to the operating of segment saws is always objectionable. Left- Hand. Right-Hand. The attention of the manufacturers of chair or wheelwright lumber, barrels, etc., is respectfully called to concave saws, of which we ate manufacturing large numbers. They are dished and tempered by an entirely new and patented process, and guaranteed to be of superior quality in every respect. To keep concave saws in order, set both sides of the teeth alike ; file the front of the teeth square and bevel the backs a trifle. Have the same amount of rake on the fronts of all the teeth ; keep the gullets round. Do not run a dull saw. 65 DISSTOJSr HAnSTDBOOK BILGE SAW. CYLINDER SAW. We are prepared to furnish these saws of a superior quality, ground and tempered by our special process. They are made of the best crucible steel and will give satisfaction. Old Cylinder or Barrel Saws resteeled and repaired. RE FILING CYLINDER AND BILGE SAWS. The instructions and sketch below give a correct rule for filing and keeping this class of saws in proper order. While fV" is given as base for depth of teeth, this is subject to variation to suit the different conditions. -Bin- To Obtain the Correct Depth op Teeth. — See that all the points of old teeth are even, if not, raze off until they form an even 66 DISSTOKT HANDBOOK edge. Chalk the surface of the saw to retain a pencil mark, on which scribe a line y\" from end of razed points, per dotted line on sketch. Proper Pitch for Front op Teeth : Draw a line 6" length- wise with axis of saw ; from the end of this step off 4" parallel with edge of saw, then draw a line from this point to point of tooth and this will give the angle or pitch. It is only necessary to lay out two teeth in the manner suggested, after which a tin templet can be cut to correspond with same and the balance of teeth marked out accordingly. To Shape the Teeth and Gullets a f^" Round File is gen- erally used, the balance of the tooth being finished with an ordinary Mill File, shaping the front and back of tooth as shown on sketch. Particular attention should be given to file the gullets round at bottom, for sharp, square corners will cause breakage. When dressing the teeth , file the cutting edge square with the face or front of tooth. The set should be sufficient to just clear the saw and extend no more than one-third the depth of tooth. A uniform set can be obtained by using a tin or metal templet and springing each tooth to same. GUMMER FOR CYLINDER SAWS. Fastened overhead of machine, the Gummer is always in position. The arm is adjustable in height and the wheel to any angle. 67 DISSTON HANDBOOK GROOVING SAWS. These useful little tools are too well known to require special mention. They are ground thinner at centre than at rim, so that little or no set is required or just sufficient to keep the extreme points of teeth perceptibly wider than body of tooth. We make them any gauge at edge or centre as may be wanted. In ordering grooving saws, state whether wanted straight or hollow ground, if the latter, give size of collar. SPECIAL GROOVING SAWS. We manufacture Grooving Saws with various patterns c r shapes of teeth, to cut grooves of any width, depth, or special iihape on bottom or side. an DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON KEYSTONE GROOVER. Cuts grooves from }i inch to any width desired. Gives a clean, smooth finish either with or across the grain. Each head consists of two outside and three inside cutters, to cut grooves from yi inch to f^ inch iu any width, and cuts may be varied jig- or }4 inch as required. LOCK-CORNER CUTTERS. These are used for dovetailing and are made in any diameter, thickness, and with any number of teeth, suitable for the various widths of grooves desired. 69 DISSTON HAISTDBOOK Circular Mitre Saws. These saws are ground to run with- out set ; especially- adapted for smooth cutting, such as Cabinet and Cigar box work. When ordering, give size of centre hole, also diameter of collars on man- drel. Sectional view, showing taper grindint; for clearance. CIRCULAR MITRE SAW with CLEANER TOOTH. This style of saw can be made for either ripping or cross cutting. When made for rip- ping a greater num- ber of cleaner teeth are put in than for cross cutting. It will cut equally as smooth in either ripping or cross cut- ting. 70 DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON SPECIAL STEEL for METAL-CUTTING SAWS. DISSTON HIGH SPEED STEEL. This steel is the development of careful metallurgical research and extensive experiments, a combination of rare and valuable alloys with the finest quality tool steel, producing a metal capable of resisting the severest impact and preserving a good cutting-edge under severe tests. loathe, planer and milling tools made of this steel will do mo^e work and keep sharp longer than those of any other known material. Circular Metal Saws, of small diameter, made of this steel have run as long as six days continuously, cutting metal, without resharp- ening. The Teeth for the "PREMIER" Inserted Tooth metal cutting saws are made of this steel, one of which saws, under test by a large Steel and Iron Co., was worked continuously day and night, for ten days, cutting steel forgings and this was done without re-sharpening. After being re-sharpened it was again placed in work and run for two additional weeks without further sharpening. The same excellent results are being had from the various Premier Saws now in use. If the material to be cut is properly annealed we guarantee the saw will perform its duty. DISSTON MANGTUNG STEEL. In this steel is combined sufficient of the High Speed Steel element? to give it the facility of retaining a good cutting edge under severe conditions without the sacrificing of strength. It is principally used in the making of Solid Tooth Milling Saws of the larger diameters. DISSTON CHROMOL STEEL. The material in the CHROMOIy hack saw blade possesses the peculiar qualities of High Speed Steel, making it specially adapted for saw blades to be used for cutting metal ; it so takes the special hardening and tempering that the teeth of the CHROMOI, blade will not crumble off as in the case with some other makes of saws, but is so tough a7id strong- that it readily maintains its cutting-edge and will wear longer than any other saw. 71 DISSTON HANDBOOK GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF Saws For Cutting Metal. The demand for Hack Saws or Saws for cutting metal has been constantly increasing from year to year owing to the great variety of purposes to which iron and steel and other metals are being adapted. Some years back, the working of metal to size was done in what may now be considered a very crude, laborious and expensive method. Itwas usually done in a blacksmith shop, the smaller work being forged to shape, the larger sheared off and dressed up with a file, while in such cases where joints or mitres were desired on beams, etc., the work was sheared to length, the required angle then cut on a shaper or planer. This method afterwards gave way to the adoption of shears, but this did not make an accurate angle and necessitated dressing off. All of these methods consumed considerable time. The use of the circular metal and hand hack saws has rendered possible to a greater extent the employment of metals in the trades, as modern appliances for shaping and cutting with this class of tool has reduced to a nominal figure the hitherto prohibitive cost, the work now being done with comparative ease. Hack Saw Blades, ordinarily, are narrow in width and from six to sixteen inches in length ; some are hardened throughout (our Chromol) and others on tooth-edge only, leaving the back soft (our Soft- back). Our Hack Saw Blades are made of the best crucible steel, hardened and tempered under a special process. For durability and fast cutting they are unequaled. The Teeth have the correct pitch and shape for cutting metal. For toothing, straightening and shaping these blades, intricate and expensive machinery has been built by us, by which the work is done with greater accuracy and at much less cost than would be possible if done by hand. The blades have come into general use by workmen of all trades, and are so inexpensive that when worn dull are replaced with new ones. 73 DISSTON HANDBOOK HOLLOW-GROUND. For particular work, where accuracy is desired, the Disston Hollow-ground Hack Saw Blades are recommended. These are made of special crucible steel, have milled teeth, the blade is hollow-ground to run without set, and tempered so they may be re-filed. The length is measured over all. The amount of work that can be done with one of these little tools is marvelous, though, of course, considerable depends upon the manner in which it is used. To cut steel that has not been properly annealed is hard work for a saw, and too heavy a pressure or a sudden thrust into the work is detrimental to the life of the blade. The first few strokes with a new blade should be made with light pressure. " CHROMOL." Made of " Chromol Steel," a high grade material peculiarly suited for mstal cutting blades. The teeth are milled, giving the greatest possible strength and making them sharp and clean ; set in such a manner that every third tooth is straight — acting as a cleaner — while the two intervening teeth are set alternately right and left. This arrangement allows each tooth to do its full share of the work and the action of the cleaner teeth, to a great extent, relieves the set teeth of part of the wear, which considerably prolongs the life of the blade. They are hardened throughout by the Disston Process which renders them hard and tough without being brittle. For cutting the various classes of material we recommend blades, for hand frame use, of the following number of " Points " to the inch : Soft steel. Cast iron, etc., and all general work 16 points, or 15 teeth Tool steel, light angle iron, and hard metals 18 " " 17 " Brass, Copper, Drill Rods, Iron Pipe, and Sheet Metal . . .24 " "23 " Tubing and Metal thinner than 22 gauge 32 " "31 " The stock sizes are % inch wide, 23 gauge for 8, 9 and 10 inch, and %6 inch wide, 23 gauge for 12, 14 and 16 inch blades. Length measured from centre to centre of holes. SOFT-BACK. The regular Soft-Back Hack Saw Blades are made yi, inch wide, 23 gauge, 16 points to the inch, this tooth being best adapted for general purposes. For cutting sheet metal and other classes of small work we furnish blades with finer teeth, either 22 or 26 points to the inch, as desired. For cutting Tubing, Brass, Aluminum, etc., we recommend the fine tooth blade, 26 points to the inch. The Soft Back Blade is also furnished in coils of sufficient length for use on Band Sawing Machines. For Lockmakers, we make a blade )i inch wide, 23 or 25 gauge, 16 or 22 points, and the same width blade, 28 gauge, 30 points, for Jewelers. Length measured from centre to centre of holes. 73 DISSTOlSr HANDBOOK "CHROMOL" FOR MACHINE OR POWER USE. We were the pioneers in the manufacture of Hack Saw Blades for use in Power Cutting-ofE Machines. These are necessarily somewhat thicker and wider than the " Chroniol " blades for use in hand frames, but are made of the same steel and in the same manner, excepting they are fitted with suitable sizes of teeth for the work intended. We recommend tV>o following ' ' Points ' ' to the inch for the respective classes of work : Light Power .... 15 points or 1 4 teeth Brass, Copper, Iron Pipe, etc . . 18 " " 17 " Heavy Power Work 11 " " 10 " We are prepared to furnish them in sizes suitable for any make of machine. HACK SAW FRAME, No. 25. Solid steel back 1 inch X ;^ inch, depth 5^' inches from inside edge of frame to tooth edge of blade. Polished Hardwood Handle. This is the strongest frame made. No riveted parts. Reversible stretcher, special adjustment, sockets of solid steel forged. Made for 12 inch blades only. While there is quite a variety of Hack Saw Frames on the market, the Disston line has been specially designed for durability, strength, rigidity and ease of adjustment. They are made of steel, some patterns having the eyes or sockets solid forged on frame, others with with riveted sockets. All stretchers are sinlple in construction but effective. IMPROVED ADJUSTABLE HACK SAW FRAME, No. 36J. steel frame, nickel-plated, adjustable by half inches to take inbladesS to 12 inches. Riveted sockets. Reversible stretchers, will not fall out while adjusting blade. This is the most improved form of extension frame ever put on the market, and is well made and finished throughout. DISSTON HANDBOOK Metal saws are made in the form of the regular carpenter's hand- saw, also in the shape of Back or Tenon saws. These are of a special steel and temper, hollow ground for clearance and may be resharp- ened with a good file. Tenon saws of this class are principally used in mitre boxes in the manufacture of show cases, etc., while the hand metal saws are for purposes where a framed hack saw cannot conveni- ently be used. Large saws, in the form of hand saws, are also made for cutting metal and may be operated by two men in the same manner as a cross- cut saw, the handle for small end of saw, being adjustable, can be at- tached or detached at will. These are principally used in foundries for sawing off "gates," etc., from large castings. Portable hand machines are now made for the working of a small circular milling saw, and are employed in railroad construction and re- pairs; the rail being clamped in the machine and the saw adjusted to cut either straight or diagonal. This is a great improvement over the hammer and chisel formerly used for this work. While these machines are adapted for hand, they are also arranged to work by power. There are also portable machines made, in which the straight blades are used. RAIL HACK SAWS. ; DISSTON »: SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR LARGE WORK; CUTTING OFF IRON BEAMS GIRDERS, Etc. Not,. 6 . 7 , 8 9 AND 10 FRAMES HAVE POLISHED Nos. 9 AND 10 MADE WITH HANDLE ON EACH END. . ^WVVWWWVWVVWW.VVWWWVWWVWWVV\VW-wv Length of blades measured from centre to centre of holes. 75 BISSTON HANDBOOK CIRCULAR MILLING SAWS. HOT SAWS AND FRICTION DISCS. For fast cutting of cold steel or iron, friction Discs are used. For hot steel and iron, Saws having teeth varying from ^ inches to ^ inches in space are used, the angle of teeth being equally divided by a line drawn from points of teeth to centre of saw. These saws are run at a lower speed than friction discs. The Discs and Saws are made of a special steel which we manufacture expressly for the purpose. To give the best results, these discs and saws should be run at a high and uniform rate of speed. Hot saws should run about twenty thousand feet per minute, rim motion. Discs for cutting cold iron or steel should run about twenty-four thousand feet per minute, rim motion. INSERTED TOOTH MILLING SAWS. Milling saws with inserted teeth have come into very gen- eral use for large work, such as cutting structural iron, large castings, steel and iron forgings, etc. Whilst there are many patterns of in- serted tooth saws on the market of more or less practical value, we are in position to offer the users of saws the most practical and economical inserted tooth milling saws ever made. After lengthy and expensive experiments and trials we have perfected the styles and patterns il- lustrated herein. These saws are run at a speed governed to a great extent by the hardness and size of the stock to be cut, varying from 40 to 60 feet per minute, rim motion, with a feed of % inch to 1^ inch per minute. GENERAL HINTS. It is highly important that the mandrels and collars should be amply heavy, large and true and so secured in boxes to the framework or housing as to avoid all vibration. The arbor should neatly fit the centre-hole of saw. This is essential for good work. In cases where the motion of these saws is reduced from any cau-se, the feed should be reduced proportionately, or work should be sus- pended altogether until proper speed can be regained. In no case should the work be forced suddenly or crowded on the saw. The ordinary solid tooth or slow motion milling saws, when cut- ting steel rails, beams, etc.. should run about 45 feet rim motion per 76 DISS TON HANDBOOK minute, with a feed of ^ to ^ inch per minute. While the rim speed of saw, i. e., 45 feet per minute, should be maintained for any diam eter, the feed must be reduced to correspond to a less number of teeth. For instance, a saw 28" diameter, to run at this speed, should have 200 teeth with about ^ inch pitch or space. For cutting rails and beams, y^ inch «pace of teeth in solid tooth saws '/ji to 30 in. diameter is considered right. On large saws, for special purposes, wiln inserted teeth, the space varies from 1 inch to 3 J^ incnes. To cut wrought iron the speed may be increased to 60 feet, rim motion, and feed to 1 inch per minute. For brass or soft metals, the speed may be increased to about five times that for cutting iron. When cutting metal tubing, fine teeth must be used, and the speed and feed in accordance with metals, as given above. In cutting small sections, a closer space or pitch of teeth is required than when cutting larger sections. There should always be two or more teeth in the cut at the same time. Saws for cutting iron should be kept well sharpened, otherwise they will jam in the work and. are liable to break. The Flanging which takes place upon the rims of discs should be frequently removed particularly before it becomes ragged, or cracks in the plate will result. For deep cuts the speed should be slowed down to prevent jam- ming of chips in the gullet. It is best to have a wire brush rigged over the saw for the purpose of knocking the chips from between the teeth so they will not be carried around again in the cut. This brush need not have any motion, except such as it gets from coming in con- tact with the saw. If the work be fed to the saw below the centre line, the saw should run from the operator. If the work is fed above the centre line, the saw should run toward the operator. This will prevent the work from being pulled in on the saw from any lost motion that may occur and prevent the teeth or saw from being broken. Proper lubrication is of great importance. Failure to obtain good results can often be traced to its absence. When ordering any of these saws, state the kind of metal they are intended to cut, also the speed and feed at which they are to be operated. 77 DISSTOIsr HANDBOOK SCREW SLOTTING CUTTER. A.S the name implies, these saws are used for cutting the slots in screw-heads. METAL SLITTING SAWS. S V r 5^B^-^V\ ,s V: \ The teeth are of such shape as to render them strong and effective cutters. Accurately ground for clearance. MILLING SAWS. _NfcJM\;y SHAPES ef TEETH FOR MILLING SAWS. TEETH "BACKED OPP" POR CLEASANOE. BRYANT FAIIEBN TOOTH. REGULAR FATIEEN TOOTH. We make Milling Saws and saws for cutting metal at either high or low rates of speed, of any diameter up to sixty inches, and of any thickness required. The above saws are made of a quality of steel exactly suiting the purpose, and hardened under our new improved process. See page 71. 78 DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON PREMIER INSERTED TOOTH METAL SAW. Patented March Sth, 1907 "^ ADJUSTINS ALTERNATING ROUND AND OVAL-TOP TEETH, INVERTED WEDGE. DIAMETERS FROM 18 INCHES. TO 60 INCHES. THE FASTEST CUTTER and MOST DURABLE SAW df the KIND EVER MADE. TQ DISSTON HANDBOOK The 'PREMIER** Inserted Tooth Saw for Cutting^ Metal. In the "PREMIER" Saw we present the highest development of the art of saw making. The designs of the teeth and wedge are ab- solutel}' unique, differing from anything of the kind now in use. Many severe tests, which were made with the object of arriving at the limit of the capabilities of the "PREMIER" Saw, resulted in reaching the limits of the machines. In no instance has the saw given down, even under the heaviest feed. These tests have fully demon- strated the superiority of the "PREMIER" over all other metal cut- ting saws. The Plates are of high carbon steel of our own manufacture throughout, ground to a uniform gauge, and stiffened. They are peculiarly adapted to withstand the strain to which they are subjected while at work. In design the tooth is simple and practical. A glance at the '.'- lustration will demonstrate to the mechanic its effectiveness. The Wedge which secures the tooth being inverted operates in an opposite direction from any heretofore used. It is held in position by a screw and when tightened does not disturb the rim of the blade. This screw is inserted in such a manner that it cannot jar looie and drop out. The wedge backs up and strengthens the tooth at the heel, directly back of the cutting edge, where strength is most needed. It not only secures the tooth perfectly, but provides a protection for the plate should a tooth break. The destruction of a wedge is of little moment ; it can be replaced quickly at a small cost, while an injury to the plate is a serious proposition, as it frequently destroys the efficiency of the saw. "PREMIER" Teeth are made of Disston Highspeed Steel, which is produced in our own steel works. This steel is the result of many costly experiments and has proven better adapted to the purpose than any other steel we have been able to produce heretofore or purchase. For the purpose of Inserted Tooth Metal Saws it cannot be surpassed — while it can be made extremely hard, it is tough and durable. See page 71. The shape of the cutting edges of the teeth is such that the chips are rolled and drawn toward the centre of the cut, thus preventing these chips from jamming on the sides. The teeth alternate round and oval top ; the round teeth being narrower than the oval teeth. The round tooth breaks down the way and the oval tooth cuts out the am DISSTON HANDBOOK full width of the kerf, thus providing sufficient clearance for the blade. The teeth have considerable hook ; the direction or hook of the fronts, combined with the size and shape of the cutting edges, provides a saw which does the work rapidly, in the best possible manner, and with the least expenditure of power. Practical results of sixty -seven years' experience in making saws are applied in the "PREMIER" Saw. It contains all the improvements that time has suggested. The "PREMIER" Saw is useful for steel foundries, steel forges, railroad work, structural work, locomotive shops, and all heavy metal cutting. We invite the attention of those interested in this style of saw to the records of tests which can be supplied upon application. These tests have been made under practical conditions in the shops of those eminently qualified to pass upon the efficiency of tools of this character. A special booklet describing the "PREMIER" Saw will be mailed on application. SUGGESTIONS For Operating DISSTON "PREMIER" Inserted Tooth Milling Saws: See that teeth are firmly bedded on adjusting screw, also that round and oval teeth are set the proper height from periphery of blade — the round teeth being set slightly higher than the oval teeth — this may readily be accomplished by use of the gauge specially de- signed for this purpose, and which we furnish with the saw. In tightening up the wedges, we find that after making them as secure as possible by use of the screw driver, if a drift or punch is inserted under the wedge and given one or two light blows, a half to a full turn may be taken on the wedge screw. This makes the teeth and wedges absolutely tight and saw is ready for work. After the saw has been operated for one to two hours, stop the machine and carefully examine teeth in saw to see that each tooth is doing its full share of work — or, in other words, that all the teeth are making the same depth of cut, respectively for the round and oval teeth. If any variation is found, correct same immediately by ad- justing screws and tightening wedges. This relieves saw from any unnecessary strain and lengthens life of the teeth by preventing breakage. This examination should be made at least once a day, as a pre- cautionary measure, although experience has demonstrated that as the saw is used the teeth naturally find their proper bed and very little ad- justing is necessary after the first examination and re-adjustment. 81 DISSTON HANDBOOK Tl tn , a 3 o o •^ •o ^ ni VM g <+H t4H o bfl u n o IS a 3 o a OJ in rt ,a o P. 11 ,a ■4J s ■a ^ & a rrl OT 3 q •C hr 1-. 0) H <1) +-» ft O Ph ^ "s , M (I) a! rt u n tH o o o 4-) o ^ 01 d H ■M TJ A (1> IJJ Tt D S 3 P -t-» VJ n S C!! P^ 1) is i? 3 in s M-' rvi a CI 13 Ph 2 3 ■- m -a liJ rrl T) +J n g a .a «+-! CJ «4-< r^ a o b« o ft (1) & f) HI rj ,E| ^ ft H (U & ja c« +-• w 82 DISSTON HANDBOOK MACHINE FOR RE-SHARPCNING "PREMIER SAW TEETH The tooth is fastened in holder and the arrangements are such that the proper grinding of "Round" and "Flat" top teeth is easily 3.nd quickly accomplished. 83 DISSTON HANDBOOK HAMMERING and ADJUSTING CIRCULAR SAWS. The many inquiries we have in regard to the method of hammering tnd adjusting the tension in saws has induced us to print a few simple 'nstructions on the subject, which if carefully followed can not be otherwise than a benefit to beginners and others seeking information in this line. All saws of whatsoever isind, if properly made, are what we will call ' ' loose, ' ' through or towards the centre to suit the different kinds of work for which they are intended. The object is to keep the edge strained on a straight line, to prevent it from chattering or cutting a zig-zag kerf through- the timber; what applies to any one kind of saw in the method of hammering, applies to all. The circular saw, however, is the most difficult to treat, and even after the mv>rt careful instructions we could give, would require practical experience and close observation on the part of those having these saws in charge, before they can successfully hammer them. The strain in running and the process of gumming will stretch the edge of the saw and it will begin to run siiakey , rattle in the guides and make bad lumber. However, before concluding that the saw must be hammered to adjust the tension, see if there is not some other cause for the trouble, such as improper lining, the adjustment of the guides, the collars ; the saw out of balance and the dressing of the teeth ; these matters, however, are all referred to in this hand-book, and are only mentioned here for those who have not had experience. Our object being to treat here on the hammering necessary to keep the saw true and in proper tension, which means that it must be open sufficiently and properly from the edge towards the centre to suit the motion of saw and feed of the mill. What is required in the way of tools is an anvil, one round-face and one cross-face hammer, two Straight-edges, one from 14 to 18 inches long, one about 48 inches long, and one try-mandrel ; we find that these tools for fitting up saws are being put in many of the large mills ; the men who handle the saws are making themselves proficient in the hammering of the saws to suit their wants ; this knowledge they have acquired by perseverance and practical experience, the only way in which it can be obtained. In studying the matter of how to hammer circular sa:ws, it would be as well for those who have to take charge of them, to examine the saws as to the tension when first received, taking for granted that they are 84 DISSTON HANDBOOK Fig. 1. right as to the hammering when they leave the maker ; for all the saws Fig. 2. 85 DISSTON HANBBOOK made by us will be as true as it is possible to make them, and will appear for tension as shown by figure 1 to a greater or less extent, according to the speed and feed to be used. A Saw that has lost its tension will show as at figure 2 and needs hammering with a round-face Fig. 3. Fig. 4. hammer, as shown by figure 3, but before commencing to hammer to restore the tension, examine or test the saw all around as in figure 5, and if any part of the saw between edge and centre falls away from the Straight-edge, mark around this spot as shown by figure 4, and do not Fig. 5. net DISSTON HANDBOOK hammer as mucli, if any, at that place. In testing for the tension, be sure to have the straight-edge at right angles with that part of the saw resting on the board and the opposite edge which is being raised with the left hand, while the straight-edge is held and gently pressed down Fig 6. with the right hand. Do not lean the straight-edge to one side but hold it up straight, or it will fall to the form of the saw and not show what is desired. A straight-edge reaching from the centre hole well out to the edge of 1;he saw is the best to use in hammering to regulate the tension, and when this straight-edge is applied as above, the saw 87 DISSTON HANDBOOK should fall away from a straight line as shown by figure 5 ; this will show that the centre of the saw is stiff, as it must always be to run properly and do good work, and if a short straight-edge about 6 inches long was pressed directly over the centre, it would show the saw to be nearly flat or of equal tension at that part. We will here say that it is very seldom necessary to hammer a saw at the part covered by the collars. When ready to hammer, as at figure 3, see that the face of ham- mer is ground so that the blow will be round and do not strike too heavy, for it is better to go over the saw a number of times than to Fig; 7. hammer too much at one operation, and put the saw in worse shape than it was before it was hammered. After hammering one side, mark off the other side and repeat the operation with as near as possible the same number and weight of 88 DISSTON HANDBOOK blows as struck on the first side and as directly over them as can be done. Now, stand the saw on the floor ; hold it up straight and test it with the long straight-edge as shown by figure 6 ; if the hammering has been done alike on both sides, the saw will be very nearly true ; if, however, it shows full on one side and dishing on the other, mark these places that are full. Place the saw on the anvil with the round side up ; hammer lightly on full places ; test again with the long straight-edge, and if it appears true, put it on the anvil and test it as explained, to see if it has the proper tension ; if not, repeat the operation with the round-faced ham- mer until desired tension is obtained. After again testing with long straight-edge, put the saw on the try-mandrel to test it with the short Straight-edge for running true. This mandrel must also be true, Fig. 8. which can be determined by changing the position of the saw on the mandrel to see if the same parts of the saw run off and on at the pointer. Mark the places as they run off or on as shown by figure 7. while turning the saw slowly around, and where the saw runs off, lumps will be found most likely as at 1, 1, 1, or what is termed twist lumps as at 2, 2, 2 of figure 8, or both may occur ; these lumps must be taken out with a cross-face hammer and struck as shown in the direction that the straight-edge shows the lumps to run. The saw may also be thrown out of true by lumps running toward the centre as No. 3. figure 8 ; in this case the saw will be on or off at points about oppo- site each other. This part of the hammering must be done carefully, and if the hammer is of the proper weight and the face properly ground, the saw can be made to run true without altering the tension to any 89 DISSTON HANDBOOK great extent. The testing on the mandrel by an inexperienced hand should be done with the full side of the saw towards the pointer, and by knocking down the lumps from that side will make the plate flat ; when the saw is fairly flat, test from both sides and operate in like Fig. 9. manner and get same results. Now put saw on the arbor and if for a high motion, it will sway gently from side to side in getting up to full speed and then run steady and doits work, but if it acts as hereto- fore stated (runs snakey and rattles in the guides,) it needs to be made more open toward the centre. An experienced man, however, will stand the saw on the floor, taking hold at the top edge and give it a sudden shake and if the centre vibrates and the edge stands stiff, he 90 DISSTON HANDBOOK knows it to be open towards the centre. He will also test by leaning the saw over, to see if it falls away from the straight-edge sufficiently as shown by figure 9, and consequently knows it to be right before putting it on the arbor. If the saw is too open at the centre it will run from side to side, mostly out of the log, and needs to be hammered as shown by figure 10, and the distance to hammer in from the edge depends upon where the loose parts are on the saw ; if the centre is loose on line 1, hammer to that line ; if to line 2 or 3, hammer to those Fig 10. Fig. 11. lines, or the looseness may be irregular, as shown by figure 11, and needs to be hammered as shown to regulate the tension ; after this is done proceed, as explained, with cross-face hammer to free saw from twists and lumps to make it run true. If the saw should be buckled by an accident, true it with the cross-face hammer as explained by figures 6, 7 and 8 before regulating tension and final truing ; do the same in case of buckling by burned spots or sharp lumps over the collar line ; -to remove or level these lumps, lay two thicknesses of strong, heavy paper on the anvil, place the saw on the anvil with the spot or lump resting on the paper and by giving a few well directed blows the lumps can be hammered down without expanding the metal as it would if straightened on the bare face of anvil. When hammer- ing with the round-face hammer, work on lines drawn from the edge towards the centre ; this will prevent putting twist lumps in the saw and obviate much of the trouble in truing with cross-face hammef. It is very important to have the blows distributed properly over the surface to be hammered. Hammering too much at one place would 91 DISSTON HANDBOOK cause a loose spot or lump that would be diffictilt to take out, or burn a blue spot on the saw in the cut. If it is necessary to go over the hammering more than once for tension, make lines between those that have already been operated on. The dressing of the faces of the hammers is important ; the round face should be n =cely rounded so that if a light blow was struck on the oiled surface of the- saw, it should show about half inch in diameter ; the cross-face so that it would show a blow three-quarter by three-eighth inch, for a sharp cutting blow is not eifective in either knocking down a lump or stretching the metal. In concluding to these instructions, we make the following sugges- tions to beginners : Do not be discouraged by the failure of first attempts ; make yourself perfectly familiar with instructions given and persevere in properly applying them. Carefully study the amount of opening the saw requires towards the centre for tension to suit the motion and feed used, and for regu- lating this, always use the round-face hammer. The stem of the try-mandrel need only be one inch or less in diameter and bushings used for larger arbor holes. Beginners in the art of hammering should take a small ciiculav cross-cut saw (for this class of saws, as a rule, are given veiy little attention in the mills), one that can be easily handled; go through the operation as instructed and, if successful it will show advancement in the art and the ability to operate on larger saws without the same risk of failure. In regard to large circular saws cracking and breaking over the collar line ; the saws when first put in use have been hammered or left open enough for a certain speed. If the speed is reduced while in the cut, the saw will run either in or out of the log (most generally out), forming as it were, a wedge between the saw and headblocks, e\'entually cracking or breaking the saw at or near the collar line by forcing it over this rigid point, hence the importance of maintaining a uniform speed and having the tension adapted to it. In mills where steam feed is used great care should be taken not to crowd the feed on the saw when it loses its speed from any cause, such as insufficient boiler, engine or belt power, for if the feed is not decreased in propor tion to the speed, the saw will be " crowded out " and forced over the collar the same as though the tension was not properly adjusted. 92 DISSTON HANDBOOK. ANVIL. HAMMERS and STRAIGHT EDGES for REPAIRING SAWS The above cut represents the tools necessary for altering or adjusting the tension of circular saws. (See page 84). HAMMER and SWAGE BAR. J The above cut represents our swage bar and hammer for use on circular and gang saws. We make the hammers in two sizes ; the bars of any shape, size of weight desired. 93 DTSSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON CIRCULAR SAW MANDRELS. OF THE LATEST AND MOST APPROVED STYLE. No. 000 PULLEY ON END. SELF-OILING BOXES. Our stock mandrels with pulley on end or in centre range in sizes suitable for saws 10 to 38 inches in diameter. Special sizes made to order. In order to obtain the best results and the maximum output from Circular Saws a good mandrel is an absolute necessity. The Disston Mandrels are superior in quality and workmanship. In service they will last longer and giver better satisfaction than any other make on the market. The Shafts of Steel, accurately turned, possesses in the various sizes a good safe margin of strength to prevent springing or undue vibration under the heaviest feed or pressure that may be put on the saw they are designed to carry. All Collars or Flanges are of sufficient diameter to give proper support to the saw, accurately machined and recessed, giving a perfect hearing on the blade. The Pulleys are turned up after being placed on shaft. The Boxes, extra long and heavy, are of grey iron , well fitted and babbitted, insuring true balance and smooth running. A mandrel should not be too light for the work to be done or it will spring, causing it to heat. See that the bearings are well propor- tioned and fitted. All bearings should be at least three times as long as diameter of mandrel : longer would be no detriment. The boxes should fit neatly enough to prevent lost motion, but not so tightly on the quarters as to cut off the supply of oil. One of the main causes of mandrels heating is want of proper lubrication. The cutting of channels from the front side of bottom half of boxes running down and under shaft to point of hardest bearing will be a great benefit in all cases where self-oiling boxes are not used ; then use a good heavy body oil or lubricant. In some mills where there are three bearings on the mandrel, heating is caused by getting bearings out of line when shifting for lead or adjustment. Again, some arbors have the collars for prevent- ing end motion against the box nearest the saw ; they should be on the other end, as the bearing nearest the saw has the most strain on it at all times. Heating is often caused by a short and tight belt ; where there is trouble with a heating journal and slipping belt, it would be advis- able, as well as economy, to increase the diameter of the receiving pulley on mandrel, even at the sacrifice of some of the speed. Belts should be of good length, and in all ca,ses should have the strain on the lower side and slack on the top ; then when practicable, put a balanced tightener or stress pulley on the top, placing it so that it will give as much lap of belt on the pulley as possible; this, with the balanced tightener, will take much strain off the mandrel, rendering it less liable to heat. A saw running badly from other causes, by undue crowding and straining, will frequently cause a mandrel to heat that would otherwise run cool. See suggestions on keeping saw and mill in order. 94 DISS TON HANDBOOK DISSTON CIRCULAR SAW MANDRELS„ WITH SELF-OILING BOXES. No. 00 PULLEY IN CENTER. No. 201 YOKE. No. 3CI CONNECTED BOX. The boxes of Nos. 201 and 301 Mandrels being yoked or connected makes :1 impossible for the journals to get out of line with each other. Above Mandrels are made with pulley on right-hand side with left-h: if thread unless otherwise ordered. No. 400 CORDWOOD. Made with pulley on left-hand side with right-hand thread, uniess otherwise ordered. All these Mandrels have self-oiling boxes and require no additional attention in this respect for a long time after filling of oil reservoir, the oil being carried to bearings by a ring revolving on shaft. 95 DISSTON HANDBOOK THE MAKING ef a DiSSTON BAND SAW. Tn ihe making of a Band Saw it may be of interest to state that a Band 68 feet long, 18 inches wide, 12 gauge, or 7-64ths inch thick, is made from an ingot measuring 16 inches, x 5 inches x 30 inches, weigh- ing 624 pounds. This is hammered to 18^ inches x 2^ inches X 55 inches, the weight now being about 530 pounds, then hot-rolled to 10 inches x 3-16 inches x 45 feet, and now cold-rolled and trimmed to 69 feet long, 18 inches wide, 12 gauge tight, weight 483 pounds, approximately. This work is done with extreme care, for the obtaining of uniform thickness of blade in the beginning insures more perfect results in the hardening, tempering and grinding operations. After the bands are received in the Saw Department, the first opera- tion in the making of a Band saw is the ' ' Hardening, ' ' then follows " Tempering." Owing to the extreme length of the bands, for their hardening and tempering, furnaces and apparatus of particular design are iised, which were first invented, built and installed in the Disston Works. By the use of these in connection with the exclusively Shearing to Width. 96 DISS TON HANDBOOK Disston process, a true and uniform temper, otherwise unobtainable, is secured throughout the entire length of the band. The next step is the ' ' testing for temper ' ' which is done by experts who have tested the bands for the past ten years and none but what are strictly up to the Disston Standard are passed. The ends are now cut off and the band is ' ' Smithed ' ' in the black to make it level and even for grinding purposes ; then ' ' Ground ' ' to the thickness required, after which it is accurately sheared to width under a power press, leaving a true, solid edge for the toothing. It is then placed on a machine specially adapted for the grinding of the edges to obtain a uniform width of blade. The edges are next tested with a file to make sure no part has been case-hardened by the grinding, so particular are the rules and instructions for the making of a Disston Saw. The process of "Toothing" takes place, which is done by means of a power press in which a suitable die is inserted for the , particular pattern of tooth wanted ; one tooth being cut at each stroke \ of the press. The second "Smithing" is in order; this being a finer degree o^ work in tensioning, flattening or leveling the surface on both .;^v.. Smithing. sides, trueing up the band, and it is here that skilled workmanship particularly counts. The band is now ' ' Re-ground, ' ' this being done 97 DISSTON HANDBOOK on a machine of special design, the purpose being to grind it still closer to gauge and prepare for polishing. And now the "official gauge" passes judgment as to the thick- ness of the band; then the band is further "Examined" and given such additional hammering as may be required. It is then ready for " Polishing," after which follows " Blocking." In this latter process the band is again examined as to tension, etc. , and placed in perfect condition for the succeeding operation. Next the band is cut to the exact length wanted and is ready for brazing. In "Brazing" or joining the ends together for the making of ■Fitting" and Brazing. an endless band, the ends or laps are beveled on a special milling machine and given a finish dressing by handfiling so that there shall be a uniform and perfect joint. After inspection, the laps are placed together, with a strip of best quality silver-solder between them ; adjusted in a clamp so they are held in proper position, heated irons placed under and on the part to be brazed, which are subjected to heavy pressure until the solder is thoroughly melted and the brazed part somewhat cooled off. The part joined is then dressed and ten- sioned the same as the other portion of the saw. The Disston method of brazing insures a thorough fusion or weld ; the part is strong, perfectly joined and is the result of constant efforts to excel. " Grinding of the Teeth " follows, which is done on an automatic grinding machine ; the endless toothed band being placed on this machine which is set for the particular size and shape of tooth to be ground. 98 DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON ECCENTRIC BAND SAW SWAGE. C=^ After this the teeth are " Swaged " or "Set." The larger band saws, those intended for mills or machinery of large capacity are usually swage-set, that is, the points of the teeth are spread so they will extend beyond each side of the blade for clearance of the body of the saw while cutting, to prevent friction. With the swaged tooth each corner of MadeintW0 8!zeB. The No. 1 L, adapted the tOOth CUtS, hcUCe it will do twicC *hicknMBT'the°Na sTwiM Iwlle^sUs the work iu Comparison with the spring-set from No. 16 to No. 21 gauge. , ^1 i • , ^ i i if i r nM tooth which cuts only half a kerf. The swaged saw, consequently, will stand more feed. Very Narrow Band Saws are usually "Spring-set" for clear- ance, that is, the point of one tooth is bent to the right, the next to the left, and so on alternately throughout the saw. The teeth are now ' ' Sharpened ' ' which is done on automatic machines after the same principle followed for the grinding of the teeth. By this method the teeth throughout are exactly the same, which is an absolute necessity for uniform work in cutting. This applies particularly to the larger saws, for in the case of narrow band saws with fine teeth, these are oftentimes filed by hand. The band saw is ready for ' ' Etching ' ' or branding ; then follows the ' ' Stiiifening ' ' or bringing up the elasticity of the saw to its highest efficiency. All Disston Saws are ' ' put-up ' ' or fitted with full regard as to their use and the conditions under which they are to work, so far as information or instructions to this end can be obtained. 99 DISSTON HANDBOOK LEFT-HAND BAND SAW MILL Cut No. 1. When ordering Band Saws, be particular to state whether Right- jr Left-Hand Saws are desired ; also give full particulars as to gauge, st3'Ie of tooth, back edge, etc. If the saws are to be crowning on back we finish them -gV' crowning to each 5 feet in length, unless otherwise instructed. We will supply, on application, an order blank giving details to be 100 DISSTON HANDBOOK RIGHT-HAND BAND SAW MILL Cut No. 2. -lecified, and if this is proper!}' filled out it will enable us to make up Liie saws exactly as required. The above illustration, together with the one on preceding page, gives views of two mills, by which the "hand" of saw can readily be determined, i. e., cut No. 1 shows design of a Left-Hand Mill, the log being on the left side of saw when standing facing the mill, whilst cut No. 2 shows Right-Hand Mill, the log being on the right-hand side of saw. 10-1 T>ISSTO]Sr HANDBOOK =»=_ Suggestions and Instructions AS TO CARE and MANAGEMENT OF BAND SAWS SINGLE and DOUBLE EDGE. 102 DISSTON HANDBOOK THE BAND SAW. The life of a band saw depends very largely on the way it is handled, particularly when it is new and before it has been perfectly adapted to the wheels on which it is run. Many men expect a new saw to do more work than one that has been perfectly adapted and adjusted to the wheels and the alignment of the mill. This is a mistake, for there are peculiarities about every mill, and until a new saw is adjusted to the face of the wheels, their aligning or tilt, the speed and feed, they cannot be expected to give as good results as the saw which has been adjusted to the mill. There is a certain quality about a new band saw which we can best describe by calling ' 'surplus ' ' elasticity, and until this quality is brought down to its proper bearing by the judicious use of the hammer and saw stretcher in connection with the first " runs ' ' of the saw, it will not be at its best. The manufacturer is not in a position to subject the saws he sends out to the same strains they receive in the mills, hence a saw will change more on the first run than on any succeeding one, and should be gone over with extra care the first time it comes off; in fact, if the system of running a saw only half an hour on its first run, then taking it ofi and touching it up wherever necessary, was more generally followed, there would be fewer cracked blades, qnd the life of all saws would be materially increased. All experienced filers and mill men know that excessive speed, too much tension , uneven tension, case-hardening, or glazing from the emtry wheel, gum adhering to face of wheels, crystallization from too heavy hammering, cuts on the surface of saw from sharp-faced hammers, vibration of either machine or saw, sharp angles in the gullets, imperfectly adjusted guides, backs of saws too long or too short and excessively cross aligned to make them "track," insufiicient throat room and hook, crowding the saw against guard wheel, will cause it to crack. These are all well-known causes of breakage, yet notwithstanding the knowledge that all band saws are more or less subject to these conditions, too often the cause of fracture is attributed to the quality of the steel or over-hardness. In justice to the saw manufacturer, due consideration should be given the fact, that the saw is only one item, while each and every one of the above named causes is a great factor in producing cracks in band saws. We receive many letters from Band Mill owners and operators asking our advice as to the best manner to fit, tension and operate the saws to attain the best results in capacity and quality of the lumber made and at the same time get the most wear out of the saws. The best advice we can give our band-mill friends is to employ experienced 103 DISSTOJSr HANDBOOK and skillful handsaw fitters. Such men, compared with inexperienced bandmen, will save their wages many times over in the quality and quantity of the lumber manufactured, to say nothing of the saw bill, for inexperienced men invariably spoil a large proportion of the lumber manufactured and ruin one or more sets of saws before they realize the trouble lies in their lack of knowledge, hence we repeat, the services of competent handsaw fitters are indispensable to the successful operation of handsaws. It is impossible to lay down a set of rules to fit all cases, or answer correctly any single one without knowing all the conditions under which the saws are run, but we will give a few of the most important points in reference to the care and management of the hand saw which, if followed out carefully, will benefit those who have heretofore neglected any of these points. Vibration is one of the greatest causes of had results in the use of band saws and, knowing this, particular attention should be given to the wheels and their shafts, the journals and boxes ; the wheels must he round and in perfect balance and the shafts must run free in their boxes with no lost motion. Band Mill builders are giving less crown to the wheels than they were a few years back, some are making flat wheels. Each style has its advocates and will give good results when properly handled, and as some mill builders give one Glth cf an inch crown in a 12 inch face wheel, it seems a question of education or preference with the operators. Perfectly uniform tension is the important point, for if a saw has fast and loose spots in it, the tendency to crack is largely increased, the fast spot cracking from undue tensile strain and the loose spot from constant buckling of surplus metal. The principal tools required for tensioning Band Saws are an Anvil, Leveling Block, a Cross Face Hammer, a round or Dog Head Hammer, a Twist Face Hammer, each weighing about 3^ pounds, and a Roll Saw-Stretcher (see page 110, of complete outfit) . The Anvil should have a flat face and be perfectly true. Strike light fair blows, using care not to cut or mark the surface of the saw by the hammer, as cracks are apt to start from such marks, particularly when occurring near the edges. To experiment, cut a piece three feet long from a worn out or broken hand saw, lay it on the anvil, taking your position at H'va. figure 1. Commencing at the end of the piece furthest from you place the straight-edge square acro.ss the blade and holding the blade with the left hand cause it to bend or curve as shown in figure 2. The places drawn to the straight-edge, as in figure 3, are ' ' Fast ' ' and those places that drop from the straight-edge are " Loose." The first object 104. DISSTON HANDBOOK is to make the saw ' ' Flat, ' ' or stiff as shown in figure 4, after having knocked down all the lumps. Having located a "fast " place you will notice that it shows on both sides of the blade similar to the manner in which a lump shows when the saw is lying flat. Remove the "fast" by use of the round hammer, working alternately on both sides of the blade, and trying frequently with the short straight- edge. Be careful at all times to keep the edges true. Now take out the "loose" by use of the same hammer until you have the piece stiff or flat throughout. Then proceed to locate and remove the ' ' twists ' ' still work- ing from both sides of the blade and using the cross-faced hammer. Nowproceedto "Open" or tension the saw until it shows the required amount of drop from the straight-edge, figure 5, usually about a sixteenth of an inch in a ten inch saw. The greatest opening should be done in the centre of the blade, decreasing gradually to within about an inch from the tooth edge and about one-half inch from the back edge, varying a little according to the work to be performed. Be careful not to get the saw too open and examine from time to time with the small straight-edge. To insure the saw travelling on the wheels without any lateral motion, and to keep the vibration of slack side of saw down to lowest point, the tension must be perfectly uniform throughout the entire blade. The proper amount of tension varies according to the feed of the mill and crown of the wheel, but under no circumstances do we think it judicious from any point of view to put in so much tension that the saw will not lie flat from its own weight on the leveling table. The use of a ten- sion gauge with one edge curved to the amount of tension wanted will be found of great service in ad- justing and putting Fig. 1 —Showing proper po- sition of table, etc., in front of windoTTs E and D ; XX being blank wall. A, anvil ; B, level- inR table; FF, continuation of bench; G, table holding ham- mers, etc.; H, position of opera- tor at work; S, position of Roll Stretcher. TENSION GAUGE. Made in lengths from bii to twelve inches, with curved edge adapted to face of the wheils and the tension required. 105 DISSTON HANDBOOK tens on in saws. Place the saw on anvil as in hammering, hold the tension gauge square across the blade at arms length as in figure 2, and if the tension has been properly adjusted the saw will conform to Fig. 2, the curved edge of the tension gauge from tooth edge to back To reduce the amount of tension or stiffen the blade, hammer gently along the edge of the saw (both sides) taking care not to strike nearer than Fig. 3. a quarter of an inch from the edge or bottom of a tooth, figure 7. To increase the tension (or "open up") hammer the centre or body of blade, testing frequently with the tension gauge, figure 8. 106 DISSTOlSr HANDBOOK After the saw has been properly tensioned it should be accurately fitted. The swaging and fitting of the teeth is practically the same as in a full swaged circular saw, the swaging being side dressed or shaped to a uniform width with an under and back cut in order to leave the extreme point of tooth a trifle the widest, the full amount Fig. 4. of swage when side dressed should never exceed No. 9 gauge in a 14 gauge saw and in hard timber can be run with less clearance ; it is advisable to run with as little swage as practicable for it decreases tensile strain on the saw as well as saving lumber in the kerf and requiring less power. It is also necessary to frequently re-sharpen Fig. 5. bandsaws. Many saws are ruined by being run after they have become dull. No band saw should be run longer than two and a half hours on one sharpening. Well tensioned and well .fitted bandsaws, when properly handled, will stand the maximum feed and manufacture good lumber, but after the corners of the saws become worn or dull the saws will dodge or 107 DISSTON HANDBOOK leave the line, which has the effect of destroying the tension and fracturing the saws. The amount of "hook" ranges from four inches to six and one-half inches in a ten inch saw, being governed by the timber to be sawn and the amount of feed carried ; when a properly hammered and fitted saw runs perfectly true on the wheels out of the cut, but ' ' chases ' ' back on \ cccoccc oo oc occooo> OOCCCCCC O *0000000\ OOCCCCCO O COOOoOi'^Ot Fig. 7. Fig. 8. the wheels as soon as it enters the log, increase the amount of hook until saw retains practically the same position on wheels both in and out of the cut. In sharpening use a medium soft emery wheel and do not crowd it on its work as this would result in case-hardening the gullets. Cracks are liable to start from any of these case-hardened spots. Do not have sharp gullets to the teeth ; this concentrates the bend of the saw too much at one point as it runs over the wheels. Use a long round gullet, as large as practicable, with no sharp corners or abrupt angles. Never let the back edge of saw come in contact with back guard wheel or any other hard surface, as case-hardening is bound to ensue from which cracks will surely result. Should the saw be accidentally forced against the guard and case-hardened, remove the glaze at once by holding a piece of soft emery wheel against back edge while saw is running slowly. Do not take for granted that the back edge of the saw has not been in contact with the guard wheel, try a file on the edge of the saw frequently as it has only to make one revolution with the back edge against the guard to do the case-hardening, and is done so quickly that it often happens without the knowledge of the operator. It is essential to have toothed edge of saw tighter than any othei part and to accomplish this without materially affecting the uniformity of tension, roll the saw a little longer on the back edge. I * ,a. ^ ^ SAWS Our Gang Saws are made from steel that is peculiarly adapted to the strains to which all gang saws are subjected in use, and for quality of material, temper, elasticity, tension and edge-holding qualities, we guarantee they have no equal. 123 DISSTON HANDBOOK THE MAKING ef the DISSTON CROSS-CUT SAW. Read>' for Rolling Long-Saw Plate. The "Plates" trimmed to the various shapes required, are sent by the Steel Works to tlie Cross-cut "Getting-out" department. The first operation, "Toothing," is done under powerful presses especially Cutting lo shape. 124 DISSTON HANDBOOK built for this work ; dies being inserted of the particular pattern of tooth desired. The holes in ends, for handles, are then punched and ends shaped. The blade is now ready for "Hardening" which is done under a method similar to that for Hand Saws ; then follows "Tempering," that is the extreme hardness is drawn to such a state as will make the blade suitable for the purpose intended. This is done under the Disston special process which insures uniform and highest set and edge- holding qualities, and also leaves the blade practically flat, thus re- ducing to a minimum the work required for the next operation ; that of "Hammering" for tension, and at the same time the blade is trued for "Grinding" which is done by machinery of Disston design and Grinding Long-Saws. invention, whereby is obtained the maximum amount of clearance without sacrificing elasticity and stiffness, in other words — a perfectly even thickness throughout the entire toothed-edge and thinner towards and on the back from two to five gauges to prevent kerf-binding, as may be required for the particular pattern and to suit the conditions under which the saw is to work. Now follows "Glazing" by machinery invented for the purpose ; then "Blocking", which is next in importance to tempering and grind- 125 DISSTON HANDBOOK ing, this being a higher degree of work in tensioning and upon the skill emploj'ed in this operation depends in a great measure the suc- cessful working of the saw. Next in order is "Polishing" then the blade is examined before passing to the operation of "Stiffening" by which the elasticity of the blade is brought up to its highest efKciency. This is a distinctively Disston operation of great value. Filing Long Saws. The blade is again inspected and if up to the Disston Standard, it is "Etched" with the name and brand and is then ready for "Filing and Setting." Contrary to the method pursued on hand saws the filing of Cross-cut Saws is done before the Setting for the reason that much better and more uniform results are obtained owing to the blade being heavier and the teeth much larger. In Setting, the points of the teeth are bent one to the right, the next to the left and so on alternately, for clearance in cutting. A well-sharpened cross-cut saw is one that has the teeth in proper alignment and the alternate teeth on each side filed to an exactness of bevel and pitch, the amount of which is de- termined by the work the saw is to do. Cross-cut Saws are made from three feet in length, for timber fram- ing and tie cutting, up to twelve feet and longer as may be required for cutting the giant Redwood trees of the Pacific Coast and the large timber of Tasmania, etc. 126 DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON CROSS-CUT SAWS. The Perfection of Temper in all saws is controlled very largely by the quality of the steel. As manufacturers of our own steel, being thoroughly familiar with its make-up, we are able to absolutely adjust the hardening and tempering processes to the degree giving that perfect combination of hardness and toughness that produces the ' ' edge and set-holding qualities " for which the Disston Saws are renowned. The process of Grinding saws is second only in importance to the material and temper. Our methods and machinery for this work are of our own design and used exclusively by us. The Disston process of grinding gives the saws the maximum amount of clearance without sacrificing their elasticity and stiffness ; insuring an even thickness on the cutting-edges, with a relative and uniform thickness throughout the body to a thin or extra thin back. In the Blocking, Polishing, Stiffening and final processes of manufacture, the same high order of skill is exercised as in the Hardening, Tempering and Grinding, the result being saws of the highest quality and efficiency that human ingenuity coupled with skill is capable of producing. No expense or care is spared in our efforts to produce the best saws in the "World, and we guarantee the' Disston Saws, under the same conditions, will last longer, cut faster and run easier than any other brand of saw on the market. 127 DISSTON HANDBOOK CROSS-CUT SAWS Illustrations of Different Patterns of Teeth. COUGAR. !i'i«! ill'' ;' /I i,,, ,1 ■, T. . WIZARD. '^Jwl'QlSST0Wf5*'il llill;ll|llc«TR«l«i«iiT «i wninfi ^^0^ VQ?, ^^S i!quALrT.v,s«« ai. «M> SPRING STCEin^WRBflNTED ff^l^^i^^X PMIUflDEtPWWU.Sihl ' ',^ri FOB FIST t= n r GREAT SOUTHERN. iiiiiilliili! iiilllllllllillililllS SPRING 5TEEl\EV*'' jf NEVADA. PERFORATED OREGON. ''''ill! i^ riMrlii OREGON L'^V\1'^^^'^-^ J THE ABOVE STYLES MADE ESPECIALLY FOR PACIFIC COAST. 128 BISSTON HANDBOOK Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth ORIOLE. r I , , iiiKtiiril Wl DIAMOND POINT VIM CHAMPION. V nd Pfl M7- I ^ * *- n 4 P ON HIM LANCET. No. I GREAT AMERICAN. t_ » r- mifl5rtfiw>cw^ PLAIN. rrrrrrrr^l^ fffff^irrrrrrrrr^ . ■^ TENON. VvVvVwv/ / /■v/- /. /. TUTTLE. The above patterns represent a general line of cross-cut saw teeth. We make various other styles and shapes, however, as shown in ouj catalogue. 130 DISSTOlSr HA.NDBOOK < CO Q < O 2 o H c/) Q 1) M m •»-> u 5 a:^ a*: ^ 5i D B O In (J ■^a s ^^-^ ^ «j g «•£ S fli TO e a " i" ■ g u. 03 ^ -M a.g +-_ h 5 ^ JJ S 5 a 4-. M g !8" g-P. (U dj oj PI IH fe t; J^ o! o -" q o a-d S b rt S S2 w !>> Mm-. ^ O ^ ^ VU >!/ -^ a iH ■!-> H 3 E <" 0) O rt J-! br^ S S ^« 6 -d "J (U ,fa,„5 O m S •- o S O (D be "^ 3 to O "^ in -M 5 "3 *^ in 01 -^ a a P ;h cLi ■£ rt 131 DISSTON HANDBOOK CO < (O o g &) o H (/> +- Tl :-i 01 o ?>, o s ■&< Vh S dj iH i> Oi ^, ri rt 0) a rt a! ^ (LI fl -4-J -S <" m a ^O o o ^ v. ^£ O m VI '"So mux in -^^ a! ■A '^ -S r^ " fl< ■ S -S a; . o ■" u ■ - a ■Z ^ o lu *^ ^ a *^ 2 a o *^ ft -M O ni •3 t« Mh CO O O s ^ bi) -S TO +J U 1 M CJ u ■si a -^ 0) s ^ •-< b M ft 132 DISSTON HANDBOOK u (0 09 K 06 bi > < Cli O o ;-> O o ;h bO a •_3 " o rt o II P n ^ bO a ■ft OJ o a '^ a 3 .a O +3 w a .2, " •t^ i -d ^ a ^ a {3i 01 > 1) a > 1) ,a bo a M 'J o a -^ o o oi a o o ,a -d 'bb o bo a ni IS 0) ■d a oi -d O a o o a M 6 i o ft 5 a o .•a !>^ 2 'a t bo fq a aj .2 <1 i-i ■(-> -M ^ -3 133 DISSTON HANDBOOK Disston Imperi&l Cross-cut Saw Tools THIS SET OF TOOLS INCLUDES A JOINTER, RAKER TOOTH GAUGE SETTING BLOCK OR ANVIL, AND SET GAUGE ll'c call special attention to the jollowing points in the make-up of the IMPERIAL: The parts that rest and slide on the cutting teeth of the saw, while jointing, in all tools are subject to the greatest wear. In the Imperial these parts are made of high-grade steel and specially hardened, thus making fur greatest durability and overcoming a feature so objectionable in all other Cross-cut Saw Tools on the market. The Raker Gauge is also made of steel and hardened to such a degree that the best superfine file will not cut it. This gauge is "milled" to an accurate width and thickness, and is fitted in its recess, which is also "milled," so neatly that misalignment is impossible, thus insuring a positively uniform length of Rakers throughout the entire length of any saw that is fitted with the "Imperial." Another important feature, found in no other Cross-cut Saw Tool, is the improvement in the screw adjustment to set the Raker Gauge, whereby the Gauge can be adjusted to the smallest fractional part of an inch to obtain the particular length of Raker desired. When adjusted and locked with the two lock-nuts on the lower end of Raker Gauge and retaining screw on side, the gauge cannot work loose and will remain in its position indefinitely, requiring re-adjustment only when a different length of raker is desired to suit the changes necessitated by the kind of timber to be cut. The material entering into the make-up of this Imperial Cross-cut Saw Tool is the. best that can be procured for the purpose, the workmanship is most thorough, and wc unhesitatingly pronounce it superior to any Cross-cut Saw Tool on the market — one that fills a long-felt want. SETTING AND SHARPENING OR "FITTING" CROSS-CUT SAWS With Disston Imperial Cross-cut Saw Tools To properly fit up a Cross-cut Saw, it is necessary: -^^ First — That the teeth be uniform in length. To accomplish this place an 8-inch mill File edgewise in the frame, and secure it by thumb-screws. Pass the tool lightly over the teeth- until file touches shortest cutting tooth, see Fig. 1. ' Second — Where swaged rakers are used, the swaging should follow the joint- ing. The two points of the rakers are first filed to sharp edges without reducing their Fig l. Jointing 134 DISS TON HANDBOOK length after ivhich each raker point should be swaged or bent outward and downward by the use of the swaging hammer as shown in Fig. 2, reducing the length of rakers Fig. 2, Method of Swaging Rakkrs Itom one one-hundredth to one thirty-second of an inch, according to the kind of timber to be cut. The uniformity in the length or height of raker points can readily be gauged by the use of the raker-tooth gauge in the Imperial Cross-cut Saw Tool. /-~r Third — To "fit" the straight or unswaged raker, where preferred — place the gauge over the raker teeth, as shown in Fig. 3, adjust for length of raker required and file them down. Care should be taken to have the rakers short- er than the cutting-teeth. If the rakers are too long they will not allow the cutting-teeth to come in proper contact with the work and the saw will not cut freely. For the very hardest and iriest woods the raker should be »ne-hundredth of an inch shorter flian the cutting-teeth. Fig. 3. Filing Raker Tooth \m 135 DISSTON HANDBOOK For hard, green wood the rakers should be one sixty-fourth of an inch shorter than the cutting-teeth, and graduated from one sixty-fourth to one thirty-second of an inch, according to conditions and timber when cutting softer wood. Fourth — When filing, bring each tooth to a keen cutting-edge, taking care not to reduce the length of the teeth any more than is necessary to remove the marks of Jointing The amount of bevel to the teeth should be determined by the class of timber to be cut. Hard wood requires less bevel than soft wood. A and B show styles of fitting which we strongly recommend, particularly for very hard or dry stock. These styles of fitting produce a long, knife-like edge, which, through a shearing cut, readily severs the fibre of the hardest wood. Note particularly how the saw is filed when new, and keep it as near that shape as possible. Fifth — If a saw requires Setting, lay the block or anvil, Fig. 4, on some convenient, flat, solid surface, , _^ , _ , , and hold the saw so that the point of the tooth ^^^^^C-^ ^,i^~i/ projects over the beveled edge of anvil about one- jlSV^ quarter of an inch. Give two or three blows with Fig. 4. Setting Block a light hammer, striking the tooth always about one-quarter of an inch from point. It is very important that the "Set" should be perfectly uniform, or exactly the same amount of Set to each tooth. This can be regulated by the use of Sei Gauge, Fig. 5. The amount of set required is largely determined by the kind of timber to be cut and the manner in which the saw is ground. The Disston Extra Thin Back Saws when properly filed, do not require more than one-hundredth part of an inch set to each side of the saw in general sawing, and can be run with less set in hard, firm-grained timber. Fig. 5. set Gauge. 136 DISSTON HANDBOOK DissTON Handles for Cross-Cut Saws. All Disstou Handles are made of carefully selected, well-seasoned wood ; beech and maple being principally used, and are of such shape as to give a comfortable grip. The fittings used are of best malleable Sectional >^ew gf DISSTON No. 109 CROSS-CUT SAW HANDLE -WOOD HANDLE. No. 103. OLD CLIMAX. -RIVET Extends through GneitinR and Handle. Headed both ends. iron, well made and finished, and of designs particularly adapted for the purpose. vSome patterns of handles are made to fit on the saw, the lyoop handle for instance, b y slipping the loop over the end of blade, and tightened by turning the handle; while others are adjusted to edge of blade; the pin of bolt inserted ^^'^^ in hole at end of saw, and tightened by screwing up thumb-nut. The most perfect handle is one, while strong and dura- ble, permits of a quick adjust- ment and removal; particularly so is this the case with those used for Felling Saws, where it is often necessary to remove the handle to withdraw the saw from the cut the moment the tree is about to fall. Another important feature in certain patterns is the fact that they are reversible, thus enabling the use of the saw i various positions. Quality of material and work- nship, design and weight of cast- 's being considered, the Disston II ndles for Cross-cut Saws are the 1 -^apest on the market, and should t be compared with those of ..iierior make. -WASHER Prevents frit-tion on Saw when tightening up. -LOOP. StronR In Body. Well cut Threads. w No. IO$k i The Strongest and moHt Efficient Lnop Handle for 0ro8B-0ut Saws ever placed on the market. No. 113- REVERSIBLE. No. 113. (REVERSED 137 DissTON handbook: THE MAKING cf the DISSTON HAND SAW. The operations required in the making of the DISSTON HAND SAW are both numerous and varied, to describe each would require considerable space, therefore the principal processes only will be taken up in their regular order. All Disston Saws and Tools are made throughout in the Disston Works, from the selecting and melting of the material itself to the finishing process ; every operation being under the care of experienced superintendents and subjected to frequent inspection aftd tests. The Factory consists of sixty-four buildings ; ground enclosed fifty acres, and there are 3,600 employees — the Disston Saw Works, without exception, being the largest in the world and its production —Quality and Quantity considered— the FINEST and GREATEST 138 DISSTON HANDBOOK The Disston Laboratory Used Exclusively for Making Physical and Chemical Tests of Disston Steel. The DISSTON STEEL WORKS, which is part of the plant, is fully equipped with the latest appliances, machiner}', etc., and has exceptional facilities for the making of CRUCIBEE STEEL peculiarly adapted for saw requirements. This is an important factor in the making and maintaining of HIGH QUALITY SAWS, for the steel is the foundation upon which re.sts all .subsequent work. From the time - saws were first made saw manufacturers had the greatest difiiculty in obtain- ing steel of uniform quality, free from flaws and .seams. This di£&culty was overcome in the Disston Steel Works after years of careful study and costty exper imenting. The Disston method of ca.sting steel ingots not only does away with .splitting, .spalling and crumbling of teeth, but makes a hard, tough, elastic steel of the highest quality, which with the improved and patented This Steam Hammer strikes a blow equal to 2V2 tons. 139 DISSTON HANDBOOK About 32 in fact, was the first for saw steel, and in line with the making of pro- gress, on April l'-4th, i;»0(I an lilectric P'-arnace was installed in tlie Disston Steel Works and suc- cess fully op- erated for the melting of cru- cible steel, it also being the first of its kind in the United States. The tons ef Ingots. processes of manufactur- ing and tempering guar- antees the production of saws that for toughness, standing-up quality and uniformit}' of temper have never been equaled. The Disston Saw Works was the first to manufacture saws from the raw material to the finished article. This, successful Crucible Steel Melting Plant in America Ready for Charging Crucibles. material to be melted is carefully .selected, of best quality, the va- rious operations, from the melting to the rolling, are performed by men of long ex- perience, and all steel is fully in- spected before it is .sent to the Saw Depart- ment, thus in- suring the high- est perfection. Pouring Steel. 140 DISSTON HANDBOOK Rolling Hand Saw Pl2>.tes. In the Saw Department the sheets of Crucible Steel, rolled to gauge, are trimmed under shears and cut into blanks for either straight or hollow-back saws as required. The blanks are now presumably of the same size and thickness, but to determine this, each l^lank is weighed, the heavier ones being used for saws with larger size teeth. The next operation is that of cutting the teeth, which is done on a machine of special design, the blanks l)eing fed in l)y hand. To the untrained eye the saw blade now looks as if it were ordinary mate- rial. The next step is an im- portant one and is one of a series which helps to give character and value to the tool, i. i\, the saw blades at this stage are in the soft state and must be "Hard- ened.' ' Todothis Trimming aii3 Weighing. they are placed 141 DISSTON HANDBOOK '"! •,,.'f":i '■'■^X ,''"■- Toothing. ill tlie hardening furnace, which is heated by the use of fuel oil. The saw blades in this furnace are heated to a certain temperature, then Hardening and Tempering. 142 DISSTON HANDBOOK Smithing. taken out and plunged edge lirst into a special hardening Bath. This makes them extremely hard, in fact as hard as it is possible to make >■ -.r-i'-a i^*;:, j^ «--•-• -^'^tr.. -■ Grinding. 143 DISSTON HANDBOOK them and they must therefore be handled very carefully until properly tempered. In order to make the saw blades so they can be used they must now be "Tempered," or a certain amount of this extreme hardness drawn according to the quality of saw desired, which is done bj bringing them in contact with less heat than they were subjected to in the hardening furnace. This operation is a very delicate one. The next step is that of ' ' Smithing. ' ' In this the blades are flattened and made perfectly straight, all inequalities being taken oul by the skillful hammering of the mechanics. The blades are next ' ' Ground" to gauge and to a taper so that the back will be thinner than the cutting edge. The back of the hand saw , ^___^______^^_=^_ blade is ground to V;Sa- taper from the teeth to the back and from handle to point, the tooth- edge being of even thickness from end to end. A saw not ground to proper taper cannot be ranked as a high-class tool. Now follows " Tensioning." In this the blades are hammered so that they shall not be too "fast" or too "loose;" but shall possess the proper tension, spring or character. If the blade is what is termed "fast" the metal is too long on the edge and needs expanding through the centre, or, if too "loose" the metal must be stretched on the edge. A saw not properly tensioned will run out of its course, in other words it will not cut straight and true. After being tensioned they are returned to the smithers for " I^ooking-over " and preparing for next operation. The blades are again passed to the grinder for the purpose of ' ' Drawing ' ' which is a finer process of grinding and prepares the surface to take the higher polish to be given by the ' ' Glazing. ' ' Now comes the "Blocking," which is an impcrtant operation and re- quires the highe.st order of skill. Each blocker is provided with an anvil and liguum-vitse block -rut-i/~-jtu u on which he cor- The Largest Grindstone here shown measures 72 inches diameter, 13 inches face. rects any slight 144 DISSTON HANDBOOK Blocking. irregularities that may have been developed by the previous processes. The blades tlieu undergo the ' ' Polishing ' ' process, then through the important operation of "Stiffening." As to this latter, the different proces- ses and hammer- ing under which the blades have passed, has alter- ed the arrange- ment of the mole- c u 1 e s in the metal and in or- der to restore tlie desired qualities and spring they are stiffened in a special bath, which was origi- nated and is known only to '"'" " ^ ' "Disston." The blades Polishing. ' now pass to the 145 DISSTON HANDBOOK " Etcliing " room where the name, brand, trademark, etc., are put on. The next stage is "Setting the Teeth." Each tooth is set by one or more strokes of a hannner ; the ex- perienced workman performing this work with wonder- ful accuracy and rapidity. Setting the teeth of a saw consists of bending them so that the point of one tooth is incHned to the right, the next to the left, and so on throughout the entire length of the blade, thus they slightly Etching;. Setting and Filing, ld6 DISSTON HANDBOOK protrude beyond the side of the saw blade, which is necessary to obtain sufficient clearance for the body of the blade so it will not bind in the cut, the amount of set required being somewhat lessened by the special grinding which leaves the blade tapering from toothed edge to thin-back, though extra thin-back saws are made so they will run without any set, but these are particularly adapted for hard, dry, seasoned lumber. They are now ready for ' ' Sharpening, ' ' which, as will be noticed, is done after setting so as to avoid injury to the teeth. Each saw is well sharpened and filed so true that on holding it up to the eye and looking along its edge it will show a central groove down which a fine needle will freely slide the entire length. In filing and sharpening, • the teeth are given a certain amount of bevel, according to the class of work for which they are intended ; saws for hard wood re- quiring less bevel as well as pitch than saws tor cutting soft wood. The next oper- ation is "Hand- ling-Up." Each handle for the Disston Hand Saws is sepa- rately slit, bored and fitted to its blade to i n - sure the correct "hang" or pitch to the saw when entering the work. The com- pleted handle is placed on the blade, holes marked with a punch, the handle is then removed, holes punched in blade, the handle replaced and bolted on. The saw is now complete ; subjected to examination for correctness in hang of handle, then fully inspected, cleaned, and is. ready for packing. The making of the Disston High Grade Hand Saws from start to finish calls for the most careful workmanship and constant attention. A.t each stage of the work the saws are inspected and the system for accomplishing this is so thorough that it is almost impossible for an inferior article to pass out of the works as a high grade and perfect tool. The brand "Disston" is reserved exclusively for the high grade goods which are never sent out under any other brand. "Handling-Up " 147 DISSTON HANDBOOK Wareroom. " Tilt growth and development of tile saw business in the United Slates lias been phenomenal, as now and for some years past there have been practically no saws of any foreign manufacture imported into the United vStates, whilst on the other hand the American-made goods are exported very largely to all parts of the civilized globe." "THE WORLD IS OUR MARKET." 148 DISSTON HANDBOOK Construction of S&ws am) How to Keep Them in Order. 149 DISSTON HANDBOOK The demand for an article of instruction on saw filing having been demonstrated to us not only by personal inquiry and letter, but also by the return of fine quality saws, pronounced defective through a lack of knowledge of how to keep them in order, or by the use of extensively advertised so-called saw sets and other tools, — which pull the saw blade apart or so distort it as to render it unfit for use — has led us to compile this book for gratuitous distribution for the enlightenment of the amateur and the improvement of the expert mechanic. We will endeavor to give, in the following pages, such practical information as to the proper methods of keeping saws in order and of the tools with which to do so, that will overcome the above mentioned pit-falls to the proper working of the saw. We offer our wide experience and the reputation of our goods for the efficiency of this treatise, which has been gleaned from the most scientific saw makers and most practical saw filers in the world. While we admit there are other methods of putting saws in order, we claim our modes to be the easiest and equally or more effective. We take occasion to thank our patrons for their appreciation of our products. The High Standard, which is the basis of our constantly increasing business, shall be maintained, and we trust thereby to retain their good will and increase our trade in future. HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Incorporated. 150 DISSTON HANDBOOK The following cuts are full size of the respective number of teeth and points per inch which they represent. It will be noticed that in one inch space there is one tooth less than there are points. Order all saws by the number of " POINTS " to the inch measuring from point to point of teeth. Rip saw teeth are graduated from butt to point of blade, the narrow end being one point to the inch finer than at butt ; the "POINTS" being measured at butt of blade. RIP SAWS. 151 DISSTON HANDBOOK The following cuts are full size of the respective number of teeth and points per inch which they represent. It will be noticed that in one inch space, there is one tooth less than there are points. Order all saws by the number of ' ' POINTS ' ' to the inch, measuring from point to point of teeth. CROSS-CUT SAWS: IffiBOINirn mmmm hMM^^M^M-MMsMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM^MMMMMMMJ 152 DISSTON HANDBOOK PRINCIPLE OF CONSTRUCTION. The saw is either reciprocating or continuous in action, the first being a flat blade and practically straight edge, making a plane cut, as in hand, mill, jig and sash saws ; the latter, either a circular or rotating disc, cutting in a plane at a right angle to its axis, a cylindrical or barrel shape with a convex edge cutting parallel to its axis, or a continuous ribbon or band running on two pulleys making a plain or curved cut with a straight edge parallel to their axis of rotation. Practically speaking, the teeth are a series of knives set on a circular or straight line, each tooth cutting out its proportion of wood and prevented from cutting more by the teeth on either side of it. Each tooth should cut the sam^ amount and carry out the chip or dust, dropping it below the material being sawed. Different kinds of wood require teeth varying in number, angle or pitch and style of filing. The perfection of a saw is one that cuts the fastest and smoothest with the least expenditure of power ; to do this, it is evident that each tooth should be constructed and dressed as to do an equal proportion of the work, for if any of the teeth are out of line or shape, they are not only useless themselves, but a disadvantage to the others. We find many good mechanics who frankly acknowledge that they never could file a saw satisfactorily ; the probable reason is that they never studied the principle of the action or working of the tool. There is no reason why any man of ordinary mechanical ability should not be able to file, and keep his saw in order, but like all trades, it requires practice and study of the subject. The following illustrations and explanations will greatly assist in the selection of a saw and show the best method of keeping it in proper working order. These should be carefully studied. A saw tooth has two functions — paring and scraping. A slitting or ripping saw for wood should have its cutting edge at about right angles to the fibre of the wood, severing it in one place, the throat of tooth wedging out the piece. In a cross-cut wood saw, the cutting edge also strikes the fibre at right angles to its length, but severs it on each side from the main body before dislodging it. RIP SAWS. Fig. 1. Fip. 1 is a four-point rip or slitting saw with the rake all in front, re the cutting duty is. This saw should be filed square across, where the cutting duty is 133 DISSTON HANDBOOK filing one-half the teeth from each side after setting, which will give a slight bevel to the cutting edge of tooth, as it should be for soft wood ; for medium hard woods a finer toothed saw with iive points to the inch should be used and dressed in the same manner ; for the very hardest and toughest cross-grained woods a still finer toothed saw is required, with the teeth filed slightly beveling, as ripping cross-grained stuff / partakes a little of the nature of cross-cutting. In all cases where ripping is done, the thrust of the saw should be on an angle of about 45° to the material being cut, as shown in Fig. 2, this makes a shearing cut, an advantage that can be quickly demonstrated with an ordinary pocket knife cutting any piece of wood. For ripping thoroughly dry lumber, it will be found advantageous to use an extra thin back saw which will run without set. CROSS-CUT HAND SAWS. In cross-cutting the fibre of the wood is severed twice— on each side of the saw — the thrust dislodging and carrying the dust out. 154 DISSTON HANDBOOK Fig. 3 is a five-point peg tooth cross-cut saw with the rake on the side. For the same reason that the rip saw has the rake on front of tooth, the cross-cut has it on the side, as that is where the cutting duty is. The bevel or fleam to teeth in Fig. 3 is about 45°, while there is Fig. no pitch at all ; the angle on each side being the same, forms the ''peg tooth,'' which is best adapted to cutting soft, wet and fibrous woods. This style of tooth is principally used in Buck-saws. In all cases, the size and length of teeth depend largely upon the duty required ; a long tooth has the demerit of being weak and liable to spring, but the merit of giving a greater clearance to the saw-dust. The throat space in front of each tooth must be large enough to contain the dust of that tooth from one stroke ; the greater the feed, the deeper the dust chamber required, or, more teeth. The first point to be observed in the selection of a saw is to see that it ' ' hangs ' ' right. Grasp it by the handle and hold it in position for working, to see if the handle fits the hand properlj'. These are points of great importance for comfort and utility. A handle should be symmetrical, and the lines as perfect as any drawing. Many handles are made of green wood ; they soon shrink and become loose, the screws standing above the wood. We season our handle-wood three years before using. An unseasoned handle is liable to warp and throw the saw out of shape. The next thing in order is to try the blade by springing it, seeing that it bends regularly and evenly from point to butt in proportion as the width and gauge of the saw varies. If the blade is too heavy in comparison to the teeth, the saw will never give satisfaction, because it will require more labor to use it; the thinner you can get a stiff saw the better ; it makes less kerf and takes less muscle to drive it. This principle applies to the well-ground saw. There is less friction on a narrow true saw than on a wide one ; you will get a smaller portion of blade, but you will save much unnecessary labor at a very little loss of the width. See that it is well set and sharpened and has a good crowning breast ; place it at a distance from you and get a proper light on it, by which you can see if there is any imperfection in grinding or hammering. We should invariably make a cut before purchasing a saw. even if we had to carry a board to the hardware store. We set our saws on a 155 DISSTON HANDBOOK stake or small anvil with a hammer ; a highly tempered saw takes several blows, as it is apt to break by attempting to set it with but one blow. This is a severe test, and no tooth ought to break afterwards in setting, nor will it, if the mechanic adopts the proper method, The saw that is easily filed and set is easily made dull. We have frequent complaints about hard saws, though they are not as hard as we would make them if we dared ; but we shall never be able to introduce a harder saw until the mechanic is educated to a more correct method of setting it. As a rule, saws are given more set than is necessary, and if more attention was paid to keeping points of teeth well sharpened, any well-made saw would run with very little set, and there would be fewer broken ones. The principal trouble is that too many try to get part of the set out of the body of the plate, whereas the whole of the set should be on the teeth. Setting below the root of the tooth distorts and strains the saw-plate, which may cause a full-tempered cast-steel blade to crack and eventually break at this spot ; and it is always an injury to the saw, even if it does not crack or break. The teeth of a hand saw should be filed so true, that on holding it up to the eye and looking along its edge, it will show a central groove down which a fine needle will slide freely the entire length ; this groove must be angular in shape and equal on each side, or the saw is not filed properly and will not run true. A — Scoring. B — Entering deeper and deeper until C — the full bite is taken. It is a common supposition that the entire tooth cuts, though, as a matter of fact, the actual cutting is done only by the points which can enter the wood no deeper than the central channel, that is, where the inside angle of the tooth on the right lines with that of the tooth on the left. The cutting section of each tooth, owing to their being set alternately to the right and left, individually severs but half the width of the kerf, the beveled front edge of each tooth crumbling up and dislodging the upper portion of the ridge of wood left be- tween the cutters, the jjieces being pocketed and c:irried out of the kerf Ijy the throat or gullets at each thrust of the saw. The proper amount of bevel to give the teeth is very important, for if too much bevel is given the points will score so deeply that the fibres severed from the main body will not crumble out as severed, hut be removed by continued rasping, particularly in hard woods, as they require less bevel, as well as pitch, than soft wood. Fig. 8 on next page, shows a six-point cross-cut saw filed with a tf edium amount of bevel on front or face of tooth, and none on the back. This tooth is used in buck-saws, on hard wood, and for general sawing of woods of varying degrees of tenacity. This style of dressing is the best, but a number of saws each having teeth suited to its 156 DISSTON HANDBOOK Fig. 8. particular work, will be found more advantageous than trying to make one saw serve for all kinds of hand saw work. We'will now consider the cross-cut saw tooth, in regard to rake or pitch ; this being one of the most important features, too much care cannot be taken to have the correct amount of pitch for the duty required. To illustrate this, Fig. 9 represents a board, across which we wish to make a deep mark or score with the point of a knife ; suppose C ft we hold the knife nearly perpendicular as at B, it is evident it will push harder and will not cut as smoothly as if it was inclined forward as at A ; it follows then that the cutting edge of a cross-cut saw should incline forward as at C, rather than stand perpendicular as at D. Too much hook or pitch, and too heavy a set are very common faults, not only detrimental to good work but ruinous to the saw ; the 157 DISSTON HANDBOOK first by having a large amount of pitch, the saw takes hold so keenly that frequently it '■'hangs up" suddenly in the thrust — the result, a kinked or broken blade ; the second, by having too much set, the strain caused by the additional and unnecessary amount of set is out of proportion to the strength of the blade, and is broken in the same manner. The most general amount of pitch used is 60°, though this may be varied a little more or less to advantage, as occasion may demand. The next point to be considered is the bevel, or fleam, of the point. To obtain this, as shown in Figs. 10, 11 and 12, the file is supposed to be Fig. 10. horizontal to the perpendicular of the side of saw, and on an angle of about 45° longitudinally with the length, measuring from file line toward heel. 158 DISSTON HANDBOOK Fig. 10 is a five-aiid-a-half-point cross-cut saw showing the same amount of fleam front and back, this saw is best suited for work in soft wood, and where rapid, rather than fine work is required. A shows the position of the file, B an exaggerated view of shape of point, and C the shape of point. Fig. 11 is a seven-point saw for medium hard woods, illustrated in same manner as Fig. 10. This tooth has less fleam on the back, which gives a shorter bevel to point, as at C. Fig. 12. Fig. 12 is a still finer saw, having eight points to the inch. This saw has no fleam on back , the result being very noticeable at C and B. This style of point is for hard wood. It will be seen that the bevel on the front of teeth in Figs. 10, 11 and 12 is the same, but the bevel of the point looking the length of saw is quite different, consequent upon the diSerence in the angles of the backs. Fig. 13. Fig 13 is a representation of some of the saws we have seen ; there 159 DISSTON HANDBOOK are entirely too many such now in use, and we have no doubt their owners are shortening their lives in the use of them as well as those of the saws. To owners of such saws we say, take them to the factory and have them retoothed, or buy a new saw and take a fresh start, and steer clear of this style of filing. Care should be taken in filing a saw to keep the teeth of uniform size — not one large and one small, one up and one down. Unless the teeth are regular, the set can never be regular. When the teeth of a saw become irregular in size it is useless to attempt to regulate them without filing them down (called jointing) until all are of equal height. Then proceed to regulate the size by filing straight through. We know from experience that not one man in a thousand, be he ever so practical and proficient, can regulate the teeth of a saw without first filing them down and then filing straight through. When this is done if some of the teeth still show slight " tops," these should be given another cut with the file on front and back. The teeth, now shaped and of even height, are ready to be set, as referred to on pages 155 and 162. In sharpening, you can start from either point or butt of saw. When the saws are manufactured the sharpening is usually done by filing every other tooth from point to butt or handle end. The filer, standing at the point of saw holding the point of the file inclined toward the handle, works in that direction and against the front or cutting-edge of the tooth set toward him. After filing every alternate tooth, maintaining a uniform angle and bev^, the saw is reversed in the clamp, the filer changing his position accordingly and proceeding to file the alternate teeth on this side, also beginning with the first tooth set toward him. By this method the operator is in better position to see if the fronts of the teeth are being brought up keen. It also does away with the " feather-edge ' ' thrown np on the cutting-edge of tooth which is done by holding point of file toward point of saw, or in other words filing against the set of the back of the tooth. It is essential that the filer place the edge of the file well into the gullet, letting the sides find their own bearing against fronts and backs of teeth, the angle of the file being the same as that of the tooth. By doing this, the origi- nal shape of the tooth is maintained. If the blade is securely fastened in the clamp, with just sufficient of tooth-edge extending so the file will clear the jaw, with a good file, firmly grasped and suflicient pressure applied, the sharpening should be easily done without the file chatteri.ng or screeching. After the saw is properly set and sharpened, lay it flat on a true board, rub over the points of the teeth on the side with a smooth or partly worn flat file, which will regulate the set and insure smooth cutting, making the filing last longer. After this operation, should the saw not run true, take another cut with the file over the side toward which it leads. A fast cutting cross-cut saw should have deep teeth. In the preceeding illustrations, we have given only the coarser saws that are in most general use, but the same principle of filing should be applied to the finer toothed saws regarding angles and pitch suitable for woods of different degrees of hardness, the only actual difi'erence 160 DISSTOlSr HANDBOOK being that one saw has finer points, and they being finer, require a little more care and delicate touch in setting and filing. Fig. 14. Fig. 15. Fig. 14 is a section of an eleven-point saw suitable for the finer kinds of work on dry, soft woods, such as cutting mitres, dove-tailing, pattern work, etc. Fig. 15 shows a section of saw with same number of points as Fig. 14, but filed same as Fig. 12. This saw is for finer work, same as Fig. 14 only on the medium hard woods. Fig. 16. ^ /\/V/\/^jy^g3/=is Fig. 17. Fig. 16 is a still finer saw for fine work on the very hardect woods having same dress as Fig. 14. Fig. 17 is the finest toothed saw of its kind that is made for wood. All the above mentioned saws in Figs. 14, 15, 16 and 17, are made especially hard and will not admit of setting, but being made thinner at the back, when properly filed, will cut clean and sweet. Teeth such as shown in Fig. 17 are used principally on Back Saws and smooth cutting hand saws. To maintain the original shape of these teeth use our cant safe back file. Fig. 18. Fig. 18 is a section of a pruning saw which difEers from a cross-cut hand saw, in being thicker, having a little more pitch to the teeth and 161 DISSTON HANDBOOK being ground thinner on the back in proportion to its width. These, of course, are made for cross-cutting only, as there is not as great a variety in the work, nor as much diflference ia the woods to be sawed as to degrees of hardness, being used only as a pruning saw on fruit and shade trees, which are always practically green and comparatively soft. The illustration on page 1 61 shows number of points, pitch and bevel most generally usecl and best adapted to such work. The ' ' Nib ' ' near the end of a hand saw has no practical use whatever, it merely serves to break the straight line of the back of blade and is an ornamentation only. COMPASS SAWS These saws are for miscella- neous sawing. The best form of tooth for this purpose is the same as Fig. 18, excepting that it has a trifle less bevel. As the nature of the work partakes about as much of cross- cutting as of ripping, and as a cross-cut saw will rip better than a rip will cross-cut, it is apparent the shape of tooth should be between the two. These saws are all ground thinner at back but set same as any hand saw. Scroll and Web saws are ground, filed and set in the same manner, and should have pitch according to the work to be done. If more ripping than cross-cutting is done, as in large felloes, more pitch is given than in compass saws and vice versa, though these saws are almost universally run with a rip-saw tooth and have very little variation in the pitch. BUTCHER SAWS. These saws are for cutting bones . The pitch and number of points are about the same as a fine tooth hand saw for medium hard wood, but filed straight through without fleam or bevel to tooth, with light, even set, same as in fine hand saws. HACK SAWS. These saws are for cutting metal, such as brass, iron, or untem- pered steel, and should have a little finer tooth than the average butcher saw. They are so hard that none but the best metal-saw File will sharpen them. Like the butcher saws, the filing must be straight through and no bevel. SETTING THE TEETH OF SAWS. This is an important part of the work of keeping a saw in order and should always be done after ^he: teeth 2S^ jointed and before filing. In all cases the set should be perfectly uniform, as the good working of the saw depends as much on this as on the filing. Whether the saw is fine or coarse, the depth of set should not go, at the most, lower than half the length of the tooth, as it is certain to spring the body of saw if not break the tooth out. Soft, wet woods require more set as well as coarser teeth than dry, hard woods. For fine work on dry woods, either hard or soft, it is best to have a saw that is ground so thin on the back that it requires no set ; such saws are made hard and will not Stand setting, and an attempt to do so would surely break the teeth out 163 DISSTON HANDBOOK WHAT CONSTITUTES HAND and RIP SAWS? As a matter of interest it may be stated whilst there is a general understanding in the Hardware Trade that Hand saws are 26 inches long and Rip saws 28 inches long, this is not carried out by facts. There are a great many Rip saws made of shorter lengths, such as 22 and 24 inch, for the term ' ' Rip ' ' applies to shape and style of tooth only and not to the length of the saw. lyikewise the Cross-cut or Cutting-off saws may be made in any length desired. As to the graduation of teeth in Rip Saws, the purpose of this is to enable the user to start the saw in the work more easily by commencing the cut with the end or point of blade where the teeth are somewhat finer than those at the butt. PANEL SAW is a term commonly applied to any Hand Saw ■with cross-cutting teeth, shorter than 26 inches in length. It was formerly used in designating cross-cutting Hand Saws with fine teeth, of any length, but is now obsolete in that particular. TENON SAW. Some mechanics apply this term to Panel Saws, though it more properly applies to a Back Saw. BACK SAW, sometimes termed Tenon Saw, is used for fine bench work, pattern-makers, joiners, etc., and is also made in speciaj lengths and widths for use in mitre-boxes for cutting moulding, etc. The MITRE-BOX SAW has a peculiar shaped butt or heel, making the toothed edge two inches shorter than the full length of blade. The purpose of this is to prevent the " heel " from catching in the work. LAYING-OUT TEETH. The following cuts show the method of laying-out Rip saw teeth and Cross-cut saw teeth, the angles for the teeth remaining the same as in these sketches for all sizes of teeth. It will be noted that the Rir saw tooth is made with a straight fron*-., whilst the front of the Cross put tooth is given a slight pitch or rake. \ \ \ ^ \ A7^^y 1 RIP TEETH %." SPACE CROSS-CUT TEETH %" SPACE 163 DISST03Sr HANDBOOK COMBINATION SAWS. We receive letters from time to time in which the writers offer Tor sale patents, or what they term improvements in Hand saws, which in character, are similar to the ideas embodied in our Combination Hand Saws. These saws we have made for many years and from the etching on the blade it will be noted a patent was granted as long ago as 1856 The Gauge Saw we have also been making for quite a long time. DISSTON PATENT IMPROVED COMBINATION SAWS. One of the most complete and useful saws ever offered to the trade. A full combination saw, comprising the additional advantages of g Square, 24-inch Rule, lyevel. Plumb, Straight-edge and Scratch Awl. >M No. 43- Combination Saw, with 24-inch Square and Rule, Straight-edge and Scratch Awl ; Apple Handle, with Plumb and l,evel attachment. Blade same quality as Disston's No. 7 Hand Saw. Made in 2(; inch length only. GAUGE SAWS. Mwi 'S$ii^!]!±!i^i}]^MiM^k^ m^issiiiMl^iMA^MM^M Adapted to tenoning, shouldering, dovetailing, curving, cog-cut- ting, or any purpose where a definite depth of cut is required. Same quality as Disston'S No. 7. lfF4 DISS TON HANDBOOK DISSTON HANDY SAW KIT. No. lOI. The comljiiiatioii of Blades in this set provides a Handy Kit for the practical mechanic, householder, farmer, etc. 12-inch Keyhole. 14-inch Compass. Pateated Nov. 2, 1909 15-inch Pruning. .. .., 1/ 1^ m mm* Adjustable Handle \.VVl-VH,ViA,A VVH 18-inch Plumbers' 20-incli 10 Point Cross-cut r '>U\\\V\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ 20-inch 7 Point Rip Saw. . ....^.^ nALiiiict^'^ .VI 11 1.1 VII. VUX VVl l^ V'l I'V I VI I V1--Vn-V1VTV11- Wl t 1 t 1A..I 1 1 in- Hardwood Handle, Carved and Polished, with a special lever device which is arranged to hold the blades comprising the Set rigid and the special formation of the butt of the blades prevents wobbling. The Special shaped Lev^r Bolt, permits by a quarter or half turn of same, the keeping of the Lever in position so it f. Case will not interfere with the working of the saw. The Plumbers' Saw Blade is specially tempered for cutting nails, .spikes, bolts, gas pipe, soil pipe, etc. The bladee are made of DISSTON CRUCIBI^E STEEIw, ground and polished. HAND-SAW JOINTER. Specially Adapted for Hand Saws, Narrow Band Sawi, Etc. A.\A/ •y^AA When the teeth of a saw become irregular in size it is absolutely necessary to dress them down until all are of an equal height, and this should always be done before attempting to reset or sharpen the saw. To facilitate this work and insure evenness we fully recommend the above Jointer, which is simple in construction and readily adjusted. Itid DissTON handbook: THE STAR SAW-SET. There are mauy saw-sets that ruin the saw ; the best form is one that involves the principle of the hammer and anvil ; with such a set the teeth would all be bent evenly, and cannot be otherwise, though repeated blows be given. In the Star saw-set, represented in the following engraving this principle is involved, and we guarantee this tool to do the work satis- factorily. Prominent among the advantages claimed for this set is that it can be operated by the foot by means of a treadle, thus leaving the hands free to guide the saw ; or it can be used by striking on the top with a light mallet. A is the plunger, operated by a treadle attached to E, under the machine, a slight tap with the foot setting the tooth ; B, the hammer or striking part ; C, the anvil ; D, the movable gauge ; F, the screw to regulate the amount of set. The striking part, and the anvil, or portion which receives the blow, are star-shaped, and similar in con- struction. The points are all of different sizes, numbered from one to six, and are designed to set different sized teeth. It will strike a blow as sharp and effective as though by a hammer, and is the most useful and complete saw-set that has ever been offered. If the saw is hard, several blows should be given in setting it, raising the back of the saw from the guide-screw F when the first blow is given, and gradually lowering it with each blow until the process is complete ; thus many a good saw will be saved from utter ruin. A trial will suffice. Be sure to clean the saw teeth before setting. 166 DISSTON HANDBOOK MONARCH SAW-SET. We wish to call special attention to the particular nieriis of the MONARCH SAW set. Many Hand Saw sets are imperfect for the reason that the power is applied by the upper handle of the tool, making it necessary to change the posi- tion of the hand every time the pressure is given to the tooth. To perfectly set a saw it is necessary that the Saw-Set should be held in the same relative position on every tooth. In the Monarch, the power is applied by the lower lever, making it very easy to hold the saw-set in the proper position and obtain the necessary pressure by simply closing the fingers. The head of the set is made open and the work in plain view at all times, enabling the operator to quickly adjust the Saw -Set to the tooth. The gauge "B" for regulating the depth of set has a wider bearing than in most Saw-Sets, thus doing away with the tendency to incline the tool to one side or the other, which would give an uneven set to the teeth. The anvil "E" is fitted with four beveled surfaces suitable for different sizes of teeth. The amount of set on each tooth is regulated by set screw "C" which is held firmly in place after adjustment by the small lock-nut or lever in the rear. This is of considerable importance, as the screw "C" cannot work loose during the operation of setting, which is the case with many other saw-sets, and insures an even amount of set throughout the entire length of blade. IN OPERATING, first ad- just the anvil so that the bevel most suitable for the size tooth to be set is brought into position ; hang the Saw-Set on the saw so that guide "B" rests on the teeth ; adjust this guide for the depth of set to be given by use of set screw "A." Use care not to go too deeply into the tooth as all of the set should be in the tooth itself. Taking too deep a hold is liable to distort the body of the blade, or break out the teeth. The top of plunger "D" should be in line with the top of the tooth to be set. Next adjust set screw "C" for amount of set required taking care not to put on any more set than is absolutely necessary. The Monarch Saw-Set is adapted for setting saws three quarter inch and wider. Made in three sizes ; the small size No. 2 being suitable for Hand Saws, Back Saws, etc., the medium No. 12 and large No. 20 size for Circular, Cross-Cut Saws, etc. Each size is Barff finished. 167 DISSTON HANDBOOK TRIUMPH SAW-SET. Patented Oct. 31, I899> Specially adapted for Hand Saws. Cross-Cut Saws. Circular Saws and all Small Saws. The idea embodied in this Saw-Set i.s one that will commend itself to every user of a saw-setting tool. The principal feature is the use of two plungers operated by the two levers or handles ; pressure on the lower lever forcing plunger " D " against the body of the saw, thus holding it rigidly in position and preventing slipping, whilst a continuation of the pressure on the upper lever operates plunger " C" in setting the tooth. In action it is easy and powerful, and while it will perfectly set wide aiid heavy saws, it is also particularly adapted for narrow blades, such as web saWs, narrow band saws, etc. If the gauge " 13 "is properly adjusted, the result will be a uniformity of set that cannot be obtained by any other hand set. Another important point is the head of the Set is made open, enabling the operator to quickly adjust the Saw-Set to the tooth, the work being in plain view at all times. The gauge "B," for regulating depth of set, has a wider bearing than in most saw-sets, thus doing away with the tendency to incline the tool to one side or the other, which would give an uneven set to the teeth. The anvil is fitted with four beveled surfaces, suitaVjle for different sizes of teeth. IN OPERATING first adjust the anvil " E " so that the bevel most suitable for the size tooth to be set is brought into position ; hang the Saw-Set on the saw so that the gauge " B " rests on the teeth ; adjust this gauge for the depth of set to be given, by the use of set-screw "A." Use care not to go too deeply into the tooth, as all of the set .should be in the tooth itself. Taking too deep a hold is liable to distort the body of the blade or break out the teeth. The top of plunger " C " should be in line with the top of tooth to be set. We claim this to be the best Hand Set ever put on the market, and a trial will convince anyone of its superior merits. If the instructions as to adjustment are carried out the results will be entirely satisfactory to the operator. The Triumph Saw-Set is mantifacturcd in three sizes, the smaller size, No. 28 being suitable for Hand Saws, Back Saws, Web Saws, narrow Band Saws, etc.; the medium size, No. 18 for small Circular Saws, etc., and the large size. No. 8 for Cross-Cut Saws, Circular Saws, etc. ' ■ The No. 280 Triumph Saw-Set is similar in size and style to the No. 28, but is ntted with a SM.\I,LER SIZE SETTING PI.UNGER, thus making it especially adapted for .saws 10 to 16 points to the inch. Finished, each size made with bright polished head, Barff finished handles. 168 DISSTON HANDBOOK SAWS MUST BE SPECIALLY TOOTHED AND FILED FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF WORK. The majority of users do not know or give little thought to the fact that to obtain the best results in any particular class of work the saw must be specially toothed and filed for the sawing to be done. A man called at our works some iinie ago carrying a Disston handsaw. He seemed very much aggrieved and complained bitterly about our sending out such a saw as the one he had. "Why," he said, "it will not cut wood; in fact, it will not cut anything." This struck us as being rather curious, for in 78 years of sawmaking some millions of saws have been made and sold by us. Upon examining the saw, however, the cause of the difficulty was readily apparent. Our superintendent casually asked the visitor if he thought the saw would cut iron. "No, of course it won't," said the visitor emphatically. Asked if he could wait a few minutes, he said he would. Our superintendent took the saw out in the shop, had it specially filed to cut iron (notice the specially filed part), brought the same saw back, took the visitor in the machine shop, got a piece of iron bar about 2 inches in diameter, placed it in a vise, tightened it up, put the saw to work, and in short order neatly sawed the bar in two without any trouble whatever, and the teeth were still in fair condition. The visitor was utterly amazed. "Well," he said, "I wouldn't have believed it." After an explanation of the trouble — simply a matter of the condition of the teeth in the saw — he asked: "Can you put it in proper condition for sawing wood?" "Certainly." "Well, do it, and I will never complain about a Disston Saw again." Years of experimenting have determined just what shape or space, angle and bevel should be given to the teeth, as well as the amount of set best suited for this or that class of sawing; that the tooth best adapted for sawing soft woods is not at all suitable for cutting hard woods. Of course, the work could be done after a fashion, but the result would not be as good as that obtained by the use of a saw properly toothed for its particular purpose. Vou can take a rip saw and cross-cut with it, but note the difficulty. In line with this, it may be noted that even a saw blade made for cutting soft metals is not at all adapted for sawing the harder metals nor will a saw made for sawing wood stand the work of cutting a combination of wood and metal without injury to the points of the teeth, thereby spoiling it for further use in making a clean, sweet cut in wood. A saw that is "fitted-up" for sawing wood has the teeth filed with a bevel back and front, given a proper set, enabling it to do fast cutting. A hand saw for sawing metal has no set on the teeth, but is ground for clearance and filed straight across the front of the tooth, and while to a limited extent it would cut wood, it would not do so in the manner a mechanic desires. In other words, it is not adapted for wood cutting, and its temper also is different from that of a wood cutting saw. It is for these very reasons that various patterns of saws are made, and specially toothe 1 for the different kinds of work. Experience in this line is the best teacher. Take a saw fitted up for sawing wood, try it on a piece of metal. No matter what kind of a saw it may be, or whose make, it positively will not do as good work after- ward in sawing wood without being refitted. 168A DISSTON HANDBOOK HANDY SAW CLAMPS. No. 5, Fastened to Bench by Screws Length over all, 14J inches. Filing Icnglli of jaw, 13 inches. Weight, SJ pounds. No. 6. Fastened to Bench by Screw-lugs Same dimensions as No. 5. Weight, 5 pounds, 9 ounces. The Handy Saw Clamp was designed with the particular view of making it light in weight and at the same time strong and durable; to take up the least possible space, and easily carried in a tool chest. The material is grey iron, the arches are re-inforced to give the requisite strength where needed. Tightened by means of the eccentric lever permits of quick and positive action. There being three points of pressure on the jaw, proper contact with the blade is obtained along the entire length of the jaws, which insures the holding of the saw blade firmly and rigidly in position. 168b DISSTON HANDBOOK DISSTON'S SAW FILING GUIDE. Especially Desig(ned to Assist Those Not Skilled in the Art of Filing to File a Saw Correctly. >:=»'. This cut shows a saw and clamp with attachment in proper position for filing the first side. There are three marks on the upt>er hub of the swivel attachment, and one mark on the other. One oi the three marks show when it is in position for first side and the other designates when it is in position for filing the other side. The third, or centre mark, shows when it is in position for filing Rip Saws. To obtain the correct position loosen the wing nut and move the guide around to the point desired ; after tightening wing nut, loosen screw in file handle and adjust the file for the shape tooth wanted. A good way is to select a tooth of correct shape and let file down into it, tighten set screw in handle, then file a tooth to see if the shape suits. If not, turn the file a little to the right or left and try another tooth until the proper shape is obtained. Then file every other tooth. When one side is filed, reverse saw and attachment and file the other teeth. For Rip Saws, place the file at right angles with the saw, and file every tooth. Always keep the file as nearly horizontal as possible. This guide is sold only attached to our Nos. 2 or 3 clamps and price includes Clamp, Filing Guide, File and Handle. 169 DISS TON HANDBOOK No. 120 ACME SAW. Made to Run Entirely Without Set, in Dry, Seasoned Lumber Only. In filing the No. 120 Saw for Cross-cutting, the saw should be placed in a clamp that is set at an angle of about 45 degrees. USE A DISSTON SIX INCH CANT SAFE-BACK FILE which is xnade expressly for filing this style of tooth. Hold the file horizontally, at an angle of 30 degrees to the side of blade, which will SECTION give the proper bevel. File the front and back of each alternate tooth the entire length of blade, per illustra- „^ . ° ■*■ Snowing actunl Size nnrl Shape tion of section, then turn the saw around °' sfriwnt"to in° h™ and file the remaining teeth in the same way. Note : The FRONT of the 120 Rip Tooth should be at right angles with the cutting edge of saw. Place the Rip Saw vertically in clamp, hold the file horizontally and at an angle of five degrees to the side of blade, which will give a slight bevel. Care must be taken not to change the front of tooth while filing. If properly sharpened in this manner the saw will clear itself and make a smooth, clean cut. AA14A4. No. 77 SAW. Made to Run Entirely Without Set, in Dry, Seasoned Lumber Only. The No. 77 Saw for Cross-cutting, to be filed, should be placed in a clamp set in a VERTICAL position. Use a Disston 4^ inch Regular Taper File. Hold the file hori- SECTION zontally to the side of blade and at an ^^^^^^^^^^. angle of 45 degrees to side of blade, which ^^^^^^^HHH will give the proper bevel. File the front Showing actual Size and Shape i i , r- , , . . of oross-cuttinB TOOTH and back of each alternate tooth the entire Six Points to Inch. length of blade, per illustration of section, Ih^n turn the saw around ana file the remaining teeth in the same way. The No. 77 Saw for RIPPING is filed in the same manner as the No. 120 Rip Saw mentioned above. 170 DISSTON HANDBOOK THE MAKING cf DISSTON SAW HANDLES. m All DISSTON Handles are made of carefully selected lumber, thoroughly seasoned. This lumber is stored in large piles in the yard, Section o( Ivumber Yard. which well compares in size with manj^ large commercial yards. It is air seasoned for at least three years and then receives the complete and Sawing-Out Handles. 171 DISSTON HANDBOOK ^Sfe"v-} "Belting" or Sand-Papenng. final drying in the drying room, whence it passes to the planing machines, where it is planed down to an ev'en thickness. It is next sawed into small pieces, generally of such size that two handles Varnishing and Polishing. 17? DISSTON HANDBOOK may be made from each of them. The markers then trace the shape of the handles with lead pencils around sheet steel patterns. They are then cut out by the band saws, after which a hole is bored in the centre through which the jig saw enters and cuts out the centre piece. They are now sent to the " nosing " machine wheire the nose is shaped. "Jimping" is the next operation. In this the roughly cut out handles are brought in contact with swiftly revolving cutters, and the edges are rounded. The handles now pass on to the filers, who work them into the finished shape. This is followed by ' ' sand-papering ' ' on belt machines. The next step is '' varnishing," after which comes "slitting " as it is termed, or the process of sawing the slot in the handle in which the blade re^ts. In connection with this operation the handles are bored and countersunk for the bolts or screws. If the handle is to be "carved," that work is now done, then follows "polishing." The woods used chiefly for making handles are beech, apple, cherry, walnut and other hard woods. Beech is the wood generally used, but apple is the favorite. 173 DISSTON HANDBOOK THE MAKING cf the DISSTON BUTCHER SAW. The steel is rolled in bars of the required thickness and width, oval or flat in shape according to the pattern of saw to be made ; then cut in multiples suitable for the length desired. Taking one of these pieces, which are straight as to length, the ends are bent or forged by machinery to form the sides of the butcher- back or frame ; the ' ' eye ' ' or socket at the end near the handle is formed and welded ; the inside being either round or square as per design. It will be noticed that the entire back and socket are made of one single piece of solid steel, forged, consequently is stronger than if made with the ends riveted on. Next the "Back " is straightened, that is made even and true, then "ground." Now follows "glazing" the character of finish being in accordance with the qualit}' of the saw ; the higher grades, of course, being given a finer degree of work. The pin-hole in point of frame is now ' ' drilled, ' ' this end being also ' ' slitted ' ' to take in the end of blade. The ' ' eye ' ' at butt of frame is then fitted for either a square or round stretcher ; the stretcher, as the name implies is for the purpose of tightening the blade, being made of various designs or shapes, though the usual method of stretching is by means of a wing or a hexagon- nut, which requires the threading of the end of stretcher. The "Back" is now stamped with the name and brand. The handle, properly bored, is fitted on the end of frame in position ; the holes marked o'l "back," handle removed and holes drilled, after which the handle is adjusted and fastened with three or four screws as the case may be. The saw is then inspected and handle tested to see whether it " lines" up with the back. f J 74 DISSTOJNT HANDBOOK THE MAKING i- Fractioual Part of Decimals of an Weight Sq. Feet an Inch. Inch. Pounds. ^^ U ILL U^L w au Inch. Inch. Pounds. 00000 li .50 20.32 11 .120 4.88 1%2 .4687 19.05 12 %4 ■■ .109 4.44 0000 .454 18.46 13 .095 3.86 %« .4375 17.78 ■!li2 .0937 3.81 000 .425 17.28 14 .083 3.37 1%2 .4062 16.51 •%-i .078 3.18 00 •380 15.45 15 .072 2 93 "k .375 15.24 16 .065 2.64 ii;« .,=5437 13.97 Vi« .0625 2 54 .340 13.82 17 .058 2.86 %8 .3125 12.70 18 .049 1.99 1 .300 12.20 ■'(U .046 1.91 '■',11 .296 12.07 19 .042 1.71 2 .284 11.55 20 .035 1.42 %-2 .281 11.43 21 .032 1.30 1%4 .265 10.80 VS2 .0313 1.27, 3 .259 10.53 22 .028 1.14 Vt .250 10.16 23 .025 1.02 4 .238 9.68 24 .022 .90 1%4 .234 9.53 25 .020 .81 5 .220 8.95 26 .018 .73 '/;!3 .2187 8.89 27 .016 .65 6 ^%t .203 8.26 Vui .0156 .64 •,"iii .1875 7.62 28 .014 .57 7 .180 7.32 29 .013. .53 1','h .171 6.99 30 .012 .49 8 .165 6.71 31 .010 .41 %2 .1562 6.35 32 .009 .37 9 .148 6.09 33 .008 .38 ',' 1 i I .140 5.72 34 .007 .28 10 .134 5.45 35 .005 .20 Vh .125 5.08 36 .004 .16 DISSTON WIRE GAUGE ^ ~ * V y «n . DISSTONS STANMD nSUUlRSiSiSiJiJiJi No. I. Small Gauge. I to 26 «« CM •20Q DISSTOISr HANDBOOK USEFUL INFORMATION. To find circumference of a circle multiply diameter by 3.1416. To find diameter of a circle multiply circumference by .31831. To find area of a circle multiply square of diameter by .7854. To find surface of a ball multiply square of diameter by 3.1416. To find side of an equal square multiply diameter by .8862. To find cube inches in a ball multiply cube of diameter by .5236. To ascertain heating surface in tubular boilers multiply § the circumference of boiler by length of boiler in inches and add to it the area of all the tubes. The actual effective heating surface of a tube, however, is only 1 1 times its diameter, multiplied by its length. One-sixth of tensile strength of plate multiplied by thickness of plate and divided by one-half the diameter of boiler gives safe working pressure for tubular boilers. For marine boilers add 20 per cent, for drilled holes. Steam rising from water at its boiling point (212 degrees) has a pressure equal to the atmosphere (14.7 lbs to the square inch). To find the horse-power of Engines, multiply the area of piston by the average steam pressure. Multiply this product by the travel of piston in feet per minute, divide this product by 33,000 and the quotient will be the horse-power. Note. As there is always a very appreciable difference between the pressure of steam in boiler and on piston we advocate figuring the average steam pressure on the piston at one-half the pressure carried on boilers. The result will then be nearer the actual power. HYDRAULICS. A cubic foot of water contains 1\ gallons, or 1,728 cubic inches, and weighs 62^ pounds. A gallon of water contains 231 cubic inches, and weighs 8^- pounds (U. S. standard). The friction of water in pipes is as the square of the velocity. The capacity of pipes is as the square of their diameters; thus doubling the diameter of a pipe increases the capacity four times. The height of a column of fresh water, equal to a pressure of one pound per square inch, is 2.31 feet. (In usual computations, this is taken as two feet, thus allowing for ordinary friction). To find the area of a piston, square the diameter and multiply by .7854. 20 Jl DISSTON, HANDBOOK Each horse-power of boilers requires 30 lbs. of water from feed at a temperature of 100 degrees to steam at 70 lbs. pressure. To compute the horse-power necessary to elevate water to a given height, multiply the total weight of column of water in pounds by the velocity per minute in feet, and divide the product by 33,000. (An allowance of 25 per cent, should be added for fricton, etc.). To compute the capacity of pumping engines, multiply the area of the water piston, in inches, by the distance it travels, in inches, in a given time. The product divided by 231 gives number of gallons in time named. To find the capacity of a cylinder in gallons, multiply the area, in inches, by the length of stroke, in inches, which will give the total number of cubic inches ; divide this product by 231 (which is the cubical contents of a gallon in inches), and quotient is capacity in gallons. CARE OF BOILERS. The following rules are compiled from those issued by the various Boiler Insurance Companies in this country and Europe, supplemented by our own experience. They are applicable to all boilers, except as otherwise noted. ATTENTION NECESSARY TO SECURE SAFETY. 1. Safety Valves. — Great care should be exercised to see that these valves are ample in size and in working order. Overloading or neglect frequently lead to the most disastrous results. Safety valves should be tried at least once every day to see that they will act freely. 2. Pressure Gauge. — The steam gauge should stand at zero when the pressure is off, and it should show same pressure as the safety valve when that is blowing off. If not, then one is wrong, and the gauge should be tested by one known to be correct. 3. Water Level. — The first duty of an engineer before starting, or at the beginning of his watch, is to see that the water is at the proper height. Do not rely on glass gauges, floats or water alarms, but try the gauge cocks. If they do not agree with water gauge, learn the cause and correct it. 4. Gauge Cocks and Water Gauges must be kept clean. Water gauge should be blown out frequently, and the glasses and pass- 202 DISSTON HANDBOOK ages to gauges kept clean. The Manchester, Eng. Boiler Association attributes more accidents to inattention to water gauges, than to all other causes put together. 5. Feed Pump or Injector. — These should be kept in perfect order, and be of ample size. No make of pump can be expected to be continuously reliable without regular and careful attention. It is always safe to have two means of feeding a boiler. Check \'alves and self- acting feed valves should be frequently examined and cleaned. Satisfy yourself frequently that the valve is acting when the feed pump is at work. 6. Low Water. — In case of low water, immediately cover the fire with ashes (wet if possible), or any earth that may be at hand. If nothing else is handy use fresh coal or saw dust. Draw fire as soon as it can be done without increasing the heat. Neither turn on the feed, start or stop engine, or lift safety valve until fires are out, and the boiler cooled dovfn. 7. Busters and Cracks. — ^These are liable to occur in the best plate iron. When the first indication appears there must be no delay in having it carefully examined and properly cared for. Fusible Plugs, when used must be examined when the boiler is cleaned and carefully scraped on both the water and firesides, or they are liable not to act. ATTENTION NECESSARY TO SECURE ECONOMY. 8. Cleaning. — All heating surfaces must be kept clean, outside and in, or there will be a serious waste of fuel. The frequency of cleaning will depend on the nature of fuel and water. As a rule, never allow over j\ inch scale or soot to collect on surfaces between cleanings. Hand-holes should be frequently removed and surfaces examined, particularly in case of new boiler, until proper intervals have been established by experience. Scale j\ of an inch causes a loss of about 13% in fuel, and { inch scale a loss of 38%. 9. Hot Feed Water. — Cold water should never be fed into any boiler when it can be avoided, but when necessary it should be caused to mix with the heated water before coming in contact with any portion of the boiler. If feed water is raised from 55 degrees to 200 degrees^ which a good heater should do, it will save 13^^% in fuel. 10. Foaming.— When foaming occurs in a boiler, checking the outflow of steam will usually stop it. If caused by dirty waters, blowing down and pumping up will generally cure it. In case of violent foaming, check the draft and fires. 203 DISSTON HANDBOOK 11. Air Leaks.— Be sure that all openings for admission of air to boiler or flues except through the fire are carefully stopped. This is frequently an unsuspected cause of serious waste. 12. Blowing Off. — If the feed-water is muddy or salt, blow off a portion frequently, according to condition of water. Empty the boiler every week or two , and fill up afresh. When surface blow-cocks are used, they should be often opened for a few minutes at a time. Make sure no water is escaping from the blow-off cock when it is supposed to be closed. Blow-off cocks and check-valves should be examined every time the boiler is cleaned. ATTENTION NECESSARY TO SECURE DUEIABILITY. 13. Leaks. — When leaks are discovered, they should be repaired as soon as possible. 14. Blowing Off. — Never empty the boiler while brick-work is hot. 15. Filling Up. — Never pump cold water into a hot boiler. Many times leaks, and in shell boilers, serious weakness, and sometimes explosions are the result of such an action. 16. Dampness. — Take care that no water comes in contact with the exterior of the boiler from any cause, as it tends to corrode and weaken the boiler. Beware of all dampness in seating or coverings. 17. Galvanic Action. — Examine frequently parts in contact with copper or brass where water is present, for signs of corroision. If water is salt or acid, some metallic zinc placed in the boiler will usually prevent corrosion, but it will need attention and renewal from time to time. 18. Rapid Firing. — In boilers with thick plates or seams exposed to the fire, steam should be raised slowly, and rapid or intense firing avoided. With thin water tubes, however, and adequate water circulation, no damage can come from this cause. 19. Standing Unused. — If a boiler is not required for some time empty and dry it thoroughly. If this is impracticable, fill it quite full of water and put in a quantity of common washing soda. External parts exposed to dampness should receive a coating of linseed oil. 20. General Cleanliness. — All things about the boiler room should be kept clean and in good order. Negligence tends to waste and decay. 20-4 DissTonsr handbook BELTING. The average thickness of single belts is y\ of an inch and a safe working load is assumed to be 45 lbs. per inch in width, which, at a velocity of 60 square feet per minute is equal to one horse power. Belt motion should not exceed 3,000 feet per minute. Where narrow belts are run over small pulleys a distance of 15 feet between shafts, and which gives a sag of 1)4 to 2 inches in the belt is good practice. For main belts working on large pulleys a greater distance and sag is desirable. The strongest side of the belt is the flesh side one-third the way through, therefore run the grain (hair) side on the pulley. A common rule for determining the width of a single belt ^f of ^^ inch thick to transmit any number of horse power, is to multiply the actual horse power by 1,000 and divide by the velocity of belt in feet per minute, which gives the width in inches. A belt 1 inch wide, 800 feet per minute — one horse power. To find the length of a belt, add the diameter of the two pulleys together, divide the result by 2 and multiply quotient by 3^, then add the product of twice the distance between centre of shafts and you have the length required. The resistance of belts to slipping is independent of their breadth. There is no advantage derived in increasing the width beyond that necessary to resist the strain to which it is subjected. Long belts are more effective that short ones. The strain of 350 lb». per square inch of section is a safe working load. The pulley should be a little wider than belt. STRENGTH OF ICE. Ice 2 inches thick will bear men on foot. Ice 4 inches thick will bear men on horseback. Ice 6 inches thick will bear logging teams with light loads. Ice 8 inches thick will bear logging teams with heavy loads. Ice 10 inches thick will bear 1.000 lbs. to the square foot. This table is for pure sound ice. LOG MEASURE. To ascertain the number of feet (board measure) in a log of a given size, deduct four inches from its diameter at small end, square the remainder, multiply the product by the length of log and divide by 16, the result will be the board measure contents of log. Logs over 24 feet in length.' are usually measured at centre for diameter. 205 DISSTON HANDBOOK PROGRESSION. In 1840 Henry Disston made but FEW Saws a day. 1850 Made SOME Dozens each of various kinds of Saws pel day. 1860 The DISSTON SAW WORKS turned out HUNDREDS OF DOZENS of Saws per week. 1865 Factory destroyed by fire — immediately rebuilt. 1870 Sales increased to THOUSANDS OF DOZENS per month. Factory again destroyed by fire and rebuilt. 1880 Mounted up to TENS OF THOUSANDS OF DOZENS per month. 1885 Handle Department destroyed by fire — rebuilt at once. 1890 Leaped to HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF DOZENS per year. 1900 MIL,LIONS of Saws of various patterns were made AND SOLD. ini8 SALES STILL INCREASING AND THE DEMAND FOR DISSTON BRAND OF SAWS AND TOOLS UN- PRECEDENTED. AND WHY? It is the perfectly natural result of an earnest, well- directed effort to make Saws that would DO the work intended ; formed to do it with the greatest ease ; of a superior quality of material so tempered as to hold the cutting edge the longest pos- sible time, and finished in a workmanlike manner. 206 DISSTOlSr HANDBOOK WE MANUFACTURE A COMPLETE LINE OE AnvilB (Sawmakers') Back Saws Band Saws Barrel Stave Saws Beef Splitter Saws Bevels Bilge Saws Brazing Clamps forBaiidSaws Burnisher — Cabinet Butcher Blades and Saws Butting Saws Cabinet Scrapers Canadian Webs Cane Knives ' Cementers Trowels Chisel Tooth Circular Saws Machine for Sharpening Circular Knives Circular Saws for Wood Circular Saws for Metal Circular Saws for Slate Clamps — for Brazing Saws Clamps — ^for Filing Saws Combination Hand Saws Compass Saws Concave Saws — Circular Conqueror Swages Coping Saw Corn Knives Crosscut Saws and Tools Currier Blades Cylinder Saws Deal Saws Dehorning Saws Discs for Cutting Cold Metal Doctor Blades Dovetail Saws Drag Saws Eccentric Bandsaw Swage Edger Saws Edging Trowels Emery Wheel Guramer Fay Webs Felloe Webs Ferrules Files and Rasps Side Files Filing Guides and Clamps Flanges for Saws Flooring Saws Futtock Saws Gang Saws Gauge Saws Gauges— Carpenters' Marking " Mortise " Wire Gin Roller Blades Grooving Saws Gummers — Saw Hack Saw Blades, Frames Hack Saw — Handsaw pattern Half-back Bench Saw Handles for Saws Hand, Panel and Rip Saws Hand Hack Saws Handsaw Jointer Hand Shear Heading S^ws Hedge Knife Hedge Trimmer Ice Saws Inserted Tooth Circular Saws Joiner Saws Jointer for Handsaws Keyhole Saws Kitchen Saws Knives — Cane, Corn, Hedge Knives— Circular for Cork, Cloth, Leather, Paper Knives — Machine Levels — Masons', Pocket, Shafting, etc. Leveling Blocks for Bandsaws Lock Corner Cutters Long Saws Machetes Machine Knives Mandrels Mason's Mitre Rods Metal Slitting Saws Midget Saw Punch Mill Saws Milling Saws for Metal Mitre-box Saws Mitre Rods — Masons' Mitre Saws — Circular Mitre Squares Mulay Saws Nest of Saws One-man Crosscut Saws Pattern Makers' Saws Pit Saws and Tiller Handles Plastering Trowels Plumb and Levels Plumbers' Saws Pocket Levels Pork Packers' Saws Post-hole Diggers Pruning Saws Pruning Hook and Knife Pruning Saw and Knife Punch for Saw Blades Rail Hack Saws Rasps Re-Saws Rift Saws Saw Clamps & Filing Guides Saw Knives Sawsets Saw Screws Scrapers — Cabinet Screw Drivers Screw Press Screw Slotting Saws Screws— Saw Scroll Saws — Fay's Segment Saw Set Gauge Sets — Saw Shafting Level Shaper — Swage Shear for Trimming Shingle Saws Ship-Carpenters' Saws Side Files Siding Saws Slate Saws — Circular Slicker Blades Slitting Saws for Metal Solder for Brazing Bandsaws Speed Indicator Springs, Tools, etc. Squares — Machinists' , Mitre, Try and Bevel Square-hole Saws Stair-builders' Saws Stave Saws Straight-Edges Swages Swage Bars Tiller and Box Handles Tools for Fitting X-cut Saws Tools for Repairing Saws Tools and Springs, etc. Top Saws for Double Mills Trowels — Brick Circle, Coke Corner, Garden, Gauging, Plastering, Pointing, etc. Try Squares Turkish Saws Vegetable Cutters Veneering Saws Webs — Canadian, Felloe, Fay, Turning or Chair Cabinet Pattern, Web Saw Frames Whip Saws Wire Gauges Wood Saws Boys' Buck Saws Bucks, Frames, Rods Wrench for Chisel Tooth Saws STEEL Disston High Speed Steel " Special Tool " " Extra Tool " Standard Tool" Disston Special Steels for all purposes — Sheets, Bars, Hot Rolled, Cold Rolled, Hammered S07 I>TSSTON HANDBOOK TERMS USED IN THE MAKING, RUNNING anS REPAIRING SAWS Pages. Aligniiieut 28, 103 Balance — Out of 84 Bevel 37 Blocking 23, 98 Briar Dress 32, 34 Brazing 98, 111 Buckled . 38, 5G, 91 Burr 38 Case-hardening 38 Chases 108 Chattering 38, 39, 84 Choking 40 Clearance 23, 31, 33 Crowding 31, 92 Crowning 100, 104 Dished 89 Dodge 38, 107 Dressed 21, 23 Fash 38 Fast 104 Feed 27, 43 Fitting 32, 35 Flat 28, 88, 105 Full 89 Gauge or thickness 25 Glazed 38 Gullet 36, 40 Gumming 38, 44 Fland 36, 101 Hang 29 Heating 28,38,94 Hook 34, 108 Jointing 32 Jumper 33, 49 Kerf 31 Uad 28, 34 Left-Hand 26, 101 Let-down . 38 Lining 28 Log side 28 Loose 38, 84, 104 Lump Twist 89, 91 Open 23, 84, 105 Out of Balance 84 Out of Line 38 Out of Round 32 Periphery .......... 43 Pitch 39, 67 Rake 33 Rattle 84, 90 Raze 66 Right-Hand 26,101 Set 31, 34 Side Filing 34 Smithing 21,97 Snakey 38, 84, 90 Speed , 30, 43 Spread Set 23,32 Spring get 23, 34 Square Corners 36 Stiffening 99 Swaging 23, 32. 33 Taper 22 Tension 23, 29, 38, 84 True 28, 29, 89 Track 103 Twists 105 Under Cut ' . . 37 Upset 23, 33, 49 208 IJISSTON HANDBOOK H 1 I • I (/>bt EIGH1 COME oO i 2 5^ SEVEN ARS 1 f ^ ss ; PAST THE YE o IS ? - DC a: z < m "* f-jTSl^"" AWS Fi PUTATK LL V W45JQ EST IN S FHAT REI A FU *^ }R ALL THAT IS B WILL MAINTAIN 1 T CARRIES u Li. " 0Q HAS S YEAR! b) S H 309 i I ■ I