'hi/£fse& 1 i 
 
ALBERT R. MANN 
 LIBRARY 
 
 New York State Colleges 
 
 OF 
 
 Agriculture and Home Economics 
 
 AT 
 
 Cornell University 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 
 WILLARD A. KIGGINS, JR. 
 
 in memory of his father 
 
Cornell University Library 
 SH 441.H82 
 
 Tricks and knacks of fishing; a collectio 
 
 3 1924 003 257 601 
 
The original of tliis bool< is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003257601 
 
TRICKS AND KNACKS 
 OF FISHING 
 
441 
 
 360744 
 
 Copyrighted 1911 
 
 by 
 
 THE HORTON MFG. CO, 
 
 Bristol, Coon. 
 
TRICKS AND 
 KNACKS °F 
 FISHING 
 
 A collection of pointers per- 
 taining to fishing, gathered 
 from famous fishing Guides 
 and Expert Anglers. Com- 
 piled by several lovers of 
 "The Gentle Art," and dedi- 
 cated to those who fish for 
 the love of sport. : : : 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Finding the Fish 1 1 
 
 The Weather and Fishing 12 
 
 The Times to Fish 14 
 
 Surface of the Water 15 
 
 Illustration — TroHing in the Adirondacks 16-17 
 
 Shore Lines 17 
 
 Favorite Nooks of Favorite Fish 20 
 
 Playing the Fish 22 
 
 Illustration — Brook Trout Fly Fishing 24-25 
 
 The Senses of Fish 25 
 
 When to Snub or "Jerk" 27 
 
 Casting the Fly 30 
 
 Points on Fly Fishing 31 
 
 How to Know What Flies to Use 32 
 
 Bait Casting 34 
 
 Trolling 36 
 
 Still Fishing or "Plugging" 37 
 
 How to Use a Landing Net 38 
 
 Illustration — In a Mountain Brook 4041 
 
 Fishing in Waders 41 
 
 Repairing Waders 42 
 
 Getting Loose from Snags 43 
 
 Salt Water Fishing 46 
 
 Surf Fishing 47 
 
 Illustration — Casting in the Surf 48^49 
 
 Brotherhood Among Fishermen 49 
 
 Caring for the Fish 50 
 
 How to Keep Bait 52 
 
 Knots For Fishermen 53 
 
 Fighting Bugs and Flies 56 
 
 Illustration — Bait Casting on the Delta 56-57 
 
 Cooking Fish in Camp 58 
 
 General Recipes, Camp Cooking 59 
 
 How to Build Camp Fires 62 
 
 Choosing the Fish Line 64 
 
 7 
 
Illustration — Rowing Your Own Boat When 
 
 Trolling 64-65 
 
 Points on Choosing Hooks 65 
 
 Points on Selecting Reels 67 
 
 Points on Selecting Spools ^ 
 
 Points on Selecting Rods 7^ 
 
 Illustration — Bringing Home the Fish 72-73 
 
 Care of Fishing Tackle 7^ 
 
 Illustration — The Advantage of a Good Guide . .80-81 
 
 Boat Precautions 82 
 
 Handling the Boat in a Storm 84 
 
 What to Do When Lost 88 
 
 Illustration — ^Alone but Happy 88-89 
 
 Distress Signals 89 
 
 "First Aid" Suggestions 90 
 
 Fish and Camp Photography 94 
 
 Etiquette Among Fishermen 96 
 
 Illustration — Casting From a Boat 96-97 
 
 Telescopic Bait Rods 97 
 
 Telescopic Fly Rods 98 
 
 Jointed Bait Rods 99-102 
 
 Special Bait Casting Rod 103 
 
 Light "French Gray" Bait Casting Rod 104 
 
 Illustration — A Famous Fishing Calendar . . 104-105 
 
 Dress Suit Case Bait Rod 105 
 
 Muscallonge Rod 106 
 
 Salt Water Rod 107 
 
 Jointed Fly Rods 108-1 10 
 
 Trunk Rod in 
 
 Adjustable Telescopic Bait Rods 112 
 
 Illustration — Fishing Calendar, Painted by Oliver 
 
 Kemp 112-113 
 
 Adjustable Telescopic Fly Rod 114 
 
 Fishing for Health 115 
 
FISHING 
 
 Fishing is a habit. It is an instinct — a "fever." 
 To one who has this "fever" or instinct or habit, a day 
 oflf means fishing. A few days rest in the spring means 
 a fishing trip. A summer vacation simply means more 
 fishing. Being penned up at home with a cold or in 
 bed sick means a time for dreaming of past tussles 
 with big ones. Of longing for the fishing season to 
 come again. 
 
 You can't make a fisherman by telling him fish 
 stories. But give him a rod and line, flies, reel and 
 waders, or a boat with a good guide and let him once 
 feel the thrill that comes with a "swish" and a "sing" 
 and presto he is a fisherman with the "fever." 
 
 Go fishing. There is nothing like it for real rest 
 of mind and body. Nothing like it for true sport and 
 fascination, and it is a health builder. 
 
 Don't keep it all to yourself. Take your chums 
 with you. Teach your boys and girls to fish. Take 
 your wife on a fishing trip. Let the whole family know 
 the fun of fishing. 
 
 Join your fishing club. There you will meet con- 
 genial spirits who delight in the lullaby of purling 
 brooks and lapping waves and the "sing" of the reel. 
 Such companionship produces good fellowship and 
 comradarie. 
 
 The Publishers. 
 
 Bristol, Conn., March, 191 1. 
 
FINDING THE FISH. 
 
 Trout — The fisherman who catches fish will, if 
 he is on a trout brook, pay as much attention to the 
 unlikely looking places, as he will to the inviting pools, 
 on the theory that any fool has enough sense to fish in 
 water that looks good, whereas he would pass by that 
 uninviting little hole as a waste of time. But the unin- 
 viting little holes are the ones that often yield the 
 catch, especially in any brook which is commonly term- 
 ed "fished out." 
 
 Don't slur over that part of a brook which winds 
 through the meadow, and whose banks are bare of 
 shade — the other fellow didn't stop there. 
 
 When you are on a mountain brook don't take any- 
 body's word for it that there are no trout above the 
 falls — find out for yourself. They may not have run 
 the rapids going up, that's true, but a wood duck or a 
 snipe might have carried some fish spawn above the 
 falls on his feet. 
 
 In lake fishing, it is more of "an open field and no 
 favor," and yet the old rule of "persistence and com- 
 mon sense" wins out in the long run against "faint 
 heart and poor judgment." 
 
 Salmon — After the ice goes out troll back and forth 
 off the mouths of the brooks which feed the lake, be- 
 cause there this lordly fish will be feeding on the tinker 
 smelts and other small fry, which are going and coming 
 up and down the brooks on their spawning tours. 
 
 In June and July the salmon is in deeper water 
 and farther ofif shore — use a little lead. In August he 
 is down deep and you are lucky indeed if you get one 
 a month in surface trolling. Instead of this anchor in 
 50, 75, or 100 feet of water and plug deep for him with 
 a hardy, live bait, which the water pressure won't kill. 
 Have a long anchor line and the gentle wind will give 
 you considerable fishing latitude. 
 
 In September go back to trolling and keep off 
 shore in 10 or 15 feet of water; also don't forget to troll 
 
 11 
 
back and forth across the brook mouths, because now 
 the salmon is pluming himself for his spawning tour 
 up stream again and is following the shore line until 
 he finds the brook. 
 
 Black Bass — Troll for them just after the ice 
 moves in the coves or in the vicinity of log booms, 
 which bring them wood worms and other feed. Early 
 in June, you will find them getting ready to go to 
 housekeeping in the rocky bottom shallows along the 
 shore, and now is the time for the fiy. Don't neglect 
 the sandy coves either, because year after year the 
 same bass spawn there. Often they are big fellows 
 and much lighter in color than their rock bottom breth- 
 ren. The larger bass along all shores make their 
 spawning beds in deeper water and the smaller ones 
 farther in shore. Cast accordingly. 
 
 After the spawning season is over and until the 
 fishing closes, put your flies away and either "still fish" 
 or "bait cast" for them. For still fishing anchor in 12 
 to 15 feet of water, preferably on a rocky bottom, ofif a 
 rocky point or island and use live bait until you find the 
 answer among shiners, dobsons, frogs, grasshoppers, 
 crickets, worms, etc. 
 
 In bait casting for bass, whether with live bait or 
 artificial, follow the shore and cover well around the 
 islands. If in a stream, keep to the middle, casting to 
 the sides. 
 
 Pickerel — This ugly brute is lying in wait for his 
 prey under the lily pads, or close to the old snags and 
 brush along the shore. If you want the bigger ones, 
 troll slowly in the coves where the water is 10 or 12 
 feet deep, so that your bait will not be far from bottom. 
 
 THE WEATHER AND FISHING. 
 
 Every veteran angler has his "Superstitions." 
 Some think it is time wasted to fish when "the wind is 
 from the south." But, be that as it may, if a bait is 
 
 12 
 
dragged under a fish's nose, when he is hungry, it does 
 not make any difference to him which way the wind is 
 blowing. 
 
 Brook trout don't necessarily take bait any the less 
 eagerly because "The sun is shining" — provided you 
 keep out of their sight and they don't see the glint of 
 your rod, or its shadow on the water. For these rea- 
 sons your catch is likely to be bigger on a cloudy day. 
 
 The salmon cares not whether it be cloudy or fair, 
 or misty or cold, but he does have his preference for 
 the deeps when the surface water is warm. A little 
 sprinkle of rain makes the fish sit up and take notice 
 and a shower will often be followed by active biting. 
 After the downfall of an hour or more, however, the 
 novelty seems to wear off and you might as well go 
 back to camp and get into dry clothes. 
 
 In bright sunshine with the surface like a mill 
 pond, the black bass will not be very much interested 
 in anything you have to offer him, either on your fly 
 leader or in "plug" or still fishing. 
 
 Moreover, all varieties of fresh water fish have to 
 be coaxed and coddled more in the early spring than 
 later on. The water is ice cold then and they have not 
 fully awakened from their winter numbness. In June 
 the healthy trout, salmon and bass fight like bull dogs. 
 
 The consensus of opinion among succassful ang- 
 lers seems to be that the weather conditions have less 
 to do with the number of fish caught than is popularly 
 believed. It is pretty generally agreed among those 
 who have observed, that if you can place your lure in 
 sight of a fish during its periodic feeding mood, it will 
 take it, whether the weather be fair, cloudy, calm, or 
 breezy, and they further agree that if a fish is not 
 hungry you cannot make him swallow the bait, under 
 "the most favorable weather conditions," so Called. 
 
 13 
 
THE TIMES TO FISH. 
 
 It beems almost needless to tell any fisherman that 
 the best fishing of the day, in pond or stream, is to be 
 had during the first two hours after sun-up and from 
 an hour and one-half before sunset until half an hour 
 afterward. Fish seem to be a good deal like humans, so 
 far as they can be observed and studied. In the morn- 
 ing they want their breakfast, during the heat of the 
 day they like a siesta and when twilight falls they are 
 hungry again. 
 
 If you have your bait in the water at the first peep 
 o' day or at twilight, you will have a fuller creel of 
 trout or bass, than if you fish during the midday hours. 
 But here again we are up against another exception to 
 the rule in the landlocked salmon of the lake, which 
 seems to defy all rules of fishing lore and takes a de- 
 light in being eccentric. He is just as likely to take a 
 bait at high noon as he is at sunrise or sunset. 
 
 On the other hand the brook trout is another ex- 
 ception as compared with the bass and salmon. The 
 trout will take a fly when it is so dark that you must 
 cast "by feel" and he will come for your worms when 
 the only way you have of knowing they are in the water 
 is from the tinkle of your sinker on the surface. 
 
 Rock Bass — Summer and autumn. 
 
 Burbot (Ling, etc.) — Toward night. 
 
 Carp King — Summer. 
 
 Grayling — Autumn. 
 
 Pike Perch — Summer and autumn. 
 
 Salmon, Atlantic — I^ate spring and early summer. 
 
 Brook Trout — Spring and summer, day or night. 
 
 Lake Trout — Early morning and at twilight. 
 
 Sea Bass — Summer and autumn. 
 
 Striped Bass — From spring to autumn, night or day, at high or low tide. 
 
 Blue Fish — June, July, August. 
 
 Butter Fish — Summer. 
 
 Flounder — Deep spots on ebb tide, shallow places on flood tide, February, 
 
 March, April, October and November. 
 Herring, Atlantic — October, November, morning and evening, high tide. 
 Weakfish — In the ocean at ebb tide, July, August, September. 
 
 14 
 
SURFACE OF THE WATER. 
 
 The average fisherman prefers a rippling surface 
 for best results, and he will not complain so long as 
 the waves are not "feather-edged." 
 
 Returning to the principle that the fish will take 
 bait when it is in a feeding mood, it is reasonable to 
 suppose that the rippling of the water does not whet 
 its appetite. No matter how hungry a fish is, it will 
 not take bait if it is frightened and it does terrify a 
 trout when it sees a man walking along the bank of a 
 brook. 
 
 But if the water is rippled the sky of the fish which 
 is the surface of the water, obscures the man and it 
 takes the bait. A rippling surface then serves this end 
 — it blots out from the eye of the fish the man on 
 shore, or the movements of the man in the boat. If 
 it were not for this fact, many an old fisherman will 
 tell you that he would prefer to angle in placid water, 
 on the theory that when there is a ripple running, fish 
 beneath the surface cannot "spot out" the bait as 
 quickly as when the surface is undisturbed. 
 
 To overcome this if you are lake fishing when the 
 water is rough, use sufficient lead to carry your lure 
 below the surface disturbance of the waves, and be- 
 cause you are doing this you will, when fishing in a 
 wind, keep a considerable distance off shore. What 
 has just been said applies of course to trolling. 
 
 In fly fishing a gentle ripple is most desirable, as 
 it conceals your movements from the fish, which in 
 quiet water would frighten them. 
 
 When you are trolling in a gentle breeze, and go- 
 ing against the wind, you should row only enough to 
 keep the boat in its course. The wind will carry you 
 at trolling speed until you turn up into the wind, and 
 then you will pay for your rest with the expenditure 
 of some elbow grease to keep your lure on the move. 
 
 The eccentric salmon dearly loves to connect him- 
 15 
 
self with a lure when the water is "feather white," for 
 then the angler has his work cut out for him. 
 
 But the conservative angler finds just as good 
 fishing along the lee shore when the wind is blowing a 
 gale, and if he gets fast to a "good one" he has a better 
 chance to land his catch than he would out there in 
 the racing waves. Besides, his guide, if he has one, 
 will be in better humor under cover from the wind. 
 
 A BEAUTY AND A PLEASURE. 
 
 "I wish to say that I have purchased, through Mr. 
 L. T. Gauss, of this city, one of your 'Bristol' No. 23 
 Bait Rods, with reversible handle, agate first and tip, 
 balance trumpet guides. This rod reached me in due 
 time and it is a beauty, with just that nice balance 
 which makes it a pleasure to hold it. Up to the time 
 of writing I have not had much opportunity to try it 
 out on fish of any size, but have used it on small fish 
 two different days. It is just springy enough to suit 
 me, and as I am the one to be pleased it makes no dif- 
 ference what anyone else may think." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Rochester, N. Y., September 26, 1910. 
 
 GOT ACQUAINTED WITH PICKEREL. 
 
 "Have just returned from a ten-days' on the 
 French River, Ont., Canada, where your "Bristol " 
 got ample opportunity to make the acquaintance of 
 Small Mouth Bass, Pickerel and Pike in weight rang- 
 ing about three pounds a piece." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Franklin, Pa., September 19, 1910. 
 
 A PROMISE. 
 
 "I have been an admirer of 'Bristol' rods for years. 
 I own three of them, and when they break — if they 
 ever do — will buy three more." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Philadelphia, January 26th, 1910. 
 
 16 
 
W^>-»W^ •~W~'' '.f/^, 
 
 >. -^ '"S ■ 
 
SHORE LINES. 
 
 It will pay any fisherman to make a study of lake 
 shore lines. In fishing, the "unexpected" happens as 
 often or more often than the expected. There are no 
 hard and fast rules in the game. The angler who 
 fishes according to the conformation of the shore line, 
 has a better show of winning than the one who angles 
 at haphazard. 
 
 If the lake in which you fish is oval, or circular in 
 form, without points, promontories or coves, and lies 
 in a flat country, shoaling equally from all shore points 
 to its greatest depth in the center, there is little choice 
 to be had by the fisherman. One man's judgment in 
 a case of this kind is as good as another's. 
 
 The great majority of fishing lakes, however, are 
 not of this description, and when you are considering 
 a lake with a broken, irregular shore line and dotted 
 here and there with islands, perhaps, these irregulari- 
 ties have an important bearing on the question of the 
 best place to fish. Suppose you are trolling and there 
 is a sharp point running out from shore w«ll into the 
 lake with a deep cove on either side. You will do 
 well to troll back and forth just oil this ^oint. Fish 
 are active and nomadic in their habits. They are rest- 
 less wanderers and are not content to remain in one 
 place longer than is necessary to feed. 
 
 At certain seasons of the year the salmon move in 
 schools and so do the perch. The black bass is not so 
 neighborly, yet he seems to enjoy the company of his 
 own species and where you take one bass it is a safe 
 bet there are others nearby. 
 
 Granted that fish are on the move and that they 
 often travel great distances during the daylight hours, 
 there are at all times more or less of them following 
 the shore line. 
 
 A fish on the move from mid-lake will strike the 
 shore line sooner or later and be diverted by it. He 
 
 17 
 
may go up the lake or he may go down but inevitably 
 he turns one way or another and while he may cut cor- 
 ners by and by he will swim around your point. If 
 you are trolling there and your lure looks tempting to- 
 him, you stand a chance of bringing him into the boat. 
 The fisherman who has carefully studied shore lines 
 and profited by his experience, prefers to fish back and 
 forth just off the point rather than in the coves. 
 
 "Off points," for the reason stated, are also con- 
 sidered the best locations for "plug" or still fishing. 
 
 You can judge pretty accurately as to the depth 
 of water off shore by the physical structure of the 
 land. If the country lying back from one shore is flat, 
 the water will shoal gently toward the centre of the 
 lake. If the opposite shore is a hill or mountain, which 
 drops sharply into the lake, the water near shore, ac- 
 cording to the rule, is deep and the wise fisherman will 
 troll along that abrupt shore, with a little lead to carry 
 his line a few feet under the surface. 
 
 Frequently there are ledges dropping into the 
 water's edge perpendicularly and cropping out beneath 
 the surface to great depth. Along these shelves and 
 in the shadows of the fissures down deep, are .favorite 
 haunts of the "big fellows." You will do well to troll 
 back and forth up and down along that shore line, with 
 patience and persistence. 
 
 Suppose the lake is dotted by islands with water 
 sufficient for trolling depth between them or between 
 the islands and the shore ; — fish back and forth through 
 these guts if trolling, or anchor in the channels if still 
 fishing. You are more likely to be rewarded than if 
 you "cast your bread" upon the broad expanse of the 
 lake. The narrower the channel, if it is deep, the better 
 your luck will be. 
 
 It sometimes happens that after the water shoals 
 gently for a distance from the shore, it drops oflf sud- 
 denly to great depth, and good results may be obtained 
 there by fishing just outside the shelf, with the lure 
 well down, whether trolling or plugging. 
 
 18 
 
By sounding, the angler will otten discover a 
 "sunken island" — a sort of under water plateau, often 
 in mid-lake. A "sunken island" is held in high esteem by 
 many anglers who have fished with great success in 
 their vicinity. 
 
 Salmon stick just off the points or hang to the 
 abrupt shores where the water has depth. 
 
 THE PROUD OWNERS. 
 
 "We are the proud owners of five good old 
 'Bristol' Fishing Rods, and we find them to be the 
 best Rod on the market or that money can buy — noth- 
 ing like it. We have also induced a number of our 
 friends to go buy and fish with that good old 
 'Bristol' Rod, which they did and are more than 
 pleased with results." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Lima, Ohio, December 5th, 1910, 
 
 READY FOR TRICKS. 
 
 "I am the fortunate owner of one of your splen- 
 did steel rods. Better never was made. And, being 
 an old hand, can say it pays to own one for when you 
 have a strike, great or small, you can be ready to meet 
 all kinds of tricks. The rod is simply perfect. 
 
 "Long live the men that make them." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Painesville, Ohio, April 25th, 1910, 
 
 19 
 
FAVORITE NOOKS OF FAVORITE FISH. 
 
 In the brooks the larger trout establish themselves 
 in their favorite pools and the little fellows take what- 
 ever locations are left. As the speckled beauty waxes 
 long and lusty he betakes himself to a favorite pool and 
 if it suits his taste, and he can drive out the other fish 
 he finds in the pool, there he will stay and become a 
 recluse until he is caught or driven out by a bigger 
 fish. He is the sovereign of that pool and will defend 
 it against all comers. 
 
 Such a pool must have a shady nook beneath the 
 water in which the old fellow can "loaf" his days away, 
 as he lies in wait for whatever food Fate or the cur- 
 rent may bring into the pool or for any hapless fly that 
 may drop on the surface. 
 
 And as to flies he becomes exceedingly wise. Pos- 
 sibly he learns by experience. It may be he found a 
 barbed hook in a Ry that looked innocent enough, but 
 managed to break away with no worse result than a 
 bad fright and a torn lip. 
 
 In the lake, try for the bass down among the re- 
 cesses of big boulders which loom up below the sur- 
 face. If there are no rocks, there must be stumps and 
 snags — try there. If there are no stumps and snags 
 you may find the game fellow at the edge of the canopy 
 of lily pads. 
 
 If you are fishing for bass in streams, a favorite 
 place of his is about the abutments of bridges, or in 
 the pools below the dams. 
 
 It is a gamble where you will find the salmon in 
 lake waters. He is governed by no set rule and about 
 the only clue you have to his whereabouts is that when 
 he is hungry he follows the feed. 
 
 In the early spring he will be ofif the brook mouth 
 and in midsummer down deep. If you are willing to 
 spend the time plumbing- the deeps of the lake with 
 baited hook, you will find his lair sooner or later, be- 
 
 20 
 
cause down there are the little cold water smelts and 
 the big fellows stick pretty close to their "meal tickets." 
 
 In swift water streams the salmon is more often 
 found in the pools where the water enters with a rush, 
 headed up stream, fanning away to hold his own 
 against the current, than he is under shore cover like 
 the trout. 
 
 For the big trout and the dogue of the lake you 
 must go down deep. 
 
 With the exception of the salmon, the favorite 
 nook of favorite fish combines light and shade, and 
 with this general rule in mind you should be able to 
 find his abiding place. 
 
 LEADS THEM ALL. 
 
 "I have used a great many Rods, but the Bristol 
 leads them all. It is the best Rod I have ever used." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Valley Stream, L. I., July ist, 1910. 
 
 THE BEST FLY CASTER. 
 
 "I bought two 'Bristol' Rods — one No. 16 and one 
 No. 14, both fly rods and a friend bought a 'Bristol' 
 Kalamazoo bait-casting Rod. 
 
 "I am very well pleased with mine, as I only had 
 a ten-day vacation, and it was very stormy and windy. 
 The other boys that went with me all gave me the 
 laugh, when they saw the rods, but after the first 
 jay some one of them used my extra rod all the time. 
 The wind was so strong that with a light bamboo 
 you could not cast flies at all. 
 
 "I was using a No. 4 waxed line, and could drop 
 my leader any where I chose." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Detroit, Mich., June 10, 1910. 
 
 21 
 
PLAYING THE FISH. 
 
 No two men play a fish just alike. Every angler 
 thinks his way is best and resents being shown or 
 told. 
 
 For this very reason the fisherman has no harder 
 task than to sit quietly in a boat and refrain from tell- 
 ing the other fellow how to play his catch. He will 
 often volunteer "Don't do this," or "Do that," or 
 "Give him the butt," or "Let him go," until presently 
 the other follow who is playing his own game in his 
 own way will either become rattled or grouchy. Sit 
 tight until you are asked — if you want to be a good 
 chum. 
 
 There are, however, a few well established rules 
 on which the majority of anglers agree. A few 
 "Don'ts" may bring a fish to gaff that otherwise would 
 remain in the water. 
 
 The object of playing a fish is to get the maxi- 
 mum amount of sport out of it. The killing of the 
 fish should be merely an "unpleasant duty." Market 
 or pot fishermen may argue that the "killing" is the 
 culmination of the triumph. Such people revel in a 
 cargo of "dead ones" which they may show to their 
 friends and then feed to the hens. To the other ex- 
 treme are those who get the fish net-tired, lift him in- 
 to the boat only that the hook may be extracted with- 
 out injury, after which the gasping catch is returned 
 to the water. Real fishing — that concerns us — is that 
 which gives the fish the fairest chance for a fair fight 
 with the maximum amount of true sport. 
 
 The old, old rule of fishing — the a, b, c of the art — 
 consists in "keeping a taut line." The advantages of 
 doing this are so very obvious that they hardly need 
 to be mentioned here, because if a big fish gets a slack 
 line, it usually means the loss of the fish, if not disas- 
 ter to the angler's rigging. 
 
 Although the fisherman may well know and be- 
 lieve in this principle, it is not always easy to keep 
 
 22 
 
a taut line on a fish. Often the expert is caught nap- 
 ping by the rushes of the quarry, which comes on so 
 fast that even a high multiplying reel cannot take up 
 the slack. 
 
 "When to snub" (you can say "When to jerk" 
 if you prefer) is treated elsewhere, but granting that 
 the fish is well hooked, how are you going to play him 
 from the boat in such a manner that you may keep him 
 on until he is "all in?" 
 
 His fiercest rushes will come just after he is 
 hooked. Be ready for them ! — hold your rod at right 
 angles to the fish, so that when he runs, he will go 
 against the spring of it. Keep the reel well away 
 from your clothing — if the reel handle catches, good- 
 bye fish ! Always see that your reel is locked on tight. 
 Also, be sure always that your line is not crossed or 
 snarled on the reel. 
 
 If you have out 75 feet or more of line and he 
 breaks water, you will have to trust to luck that he 
 does not shake out the hook, for at that distance he is 
 beyond control. 
 
 The first outburst of speed may be followed by a 
 lull for a moment but look out! — be on the alert! — 
 hold yourself ready for anything now, because the 
 first "go" was from pain and fright. Now he is hav- 
 ing "a sober second thought" (at least he will act as 
 if he had had) and presently he will spring something 
 new. 
 
 It may be a rush toward the boat. A fish often 
 seems to know enough to make his rushes along the 
 line of least resistance. In such a case, there is nothing 
 to do but reel for dear life in an effort to keep a taut 
 line. 
 
 Learn to thumb your line on the reel mechanical- 
 ly, unconsciously when you have a fish on. Otherwise 
 it may pile up on the spool, clogging the reel and re- 
 sult in the loss of your catch. 
 
 If when he gets on a short line he goes under the 
 23 
 
boat, as he likely will, let you rod tip follow him with 
 two-thirds or more of the rod immersed until you get 
 him under control again. Failure to do this has 
 broken many a good rod. If you can keep a taut line 
 while you swing your rod about the boat end, better 
 still. 
 
 If you have him on a short line and you see the 
 length of line out slanting toward the surface, the 
 fish is going to break water. Lower the rod almost 
 its length under water, with the tip pointed down and 
 be quick about it ! This will turn him downward be- 
 fore he reaches the surface and will keep him under. 
 
 Often a big fish will go down deep under the boat 
 and sulk, tail up, fanning away and boring steadily 
 down, often with his nose on bottom. In this case 
 reel in until your tip touches the surface, then lift 
 slowly, steadily, a foot or two. Reel in the line you 
 have gained and repeat. Thus you can often "pump" 
 him up, but be careful not to strain the line to the 
 breaking point. A fair sized fish boring down with 
 his nose on bottom is a heavy proposition to deal with 
 on a light rod. 
 
 Often you can start him up by holding the rod 
 bent and tapping it lightly ahead of the reel, but this 
 is risky unless you are confident he is well hooked. 
 
 Frequently a fish will go deep and then begin to 
 "slat" and jerk. This gives the angler a nervous mo- 
 ment because at every yank he fears the hook will 
 come free. To give the fish a dose of his own medi- 
 cine in this case, keep a taut line and tap on rod as 
 directed above. This is heroic and risky treatment, 
 but the sting of the hook when you do this will often 
 move the fish to change his base and any other ma- 
 noeuver he may make is preferable to "slatting." 
 
 As a fish tires he will give up bubbles and you 
 then know he is weakening. 
 
 If he comes to the surface and floats without 
 movement, do not permit your line to slack — tow him 
 
right along-^— he is '"possumming" and will wake up 
 presently with a vengeance. 
 
 If he "floats" on a short line, thrust your rod un- 
 der water and lead him in circles beneath the surface. 
 
 It is risky and not necessary to stand up in the 
 boat to play a fish, although some fishermen believe to 
 the contrary — when out in a "flatbottom." However, 
 standing up to play a fish is like standing up to carve 
 a turkey — ypu do it when "new at the business," or 
 from "bad habit" — whereas, the "Profesh" prides 
 himself in sitting quiet and doing the trick without 
 turning a hair. 
 
 If you have out much line, more of it will be un- 
 der water sitting than standing and the more line you 
 have under water the better control you have over your 
 fish. 
 
 Never whip or saw back and forth with your rod 
 when you have a fish on. 
 
 If for any reason the line clogs, give the fish the 
 spring of the rod and keep a taut line by keeping the 
 boat on the move until the matter is remedied. 
 
 SENSE OF SIGHT, FEEL AND SMELL IN FISH. 
 
 The eyesight of the fish is keen and it behooves 
 the fisherman, whether on stream or lake, to be care- 
 ful of his movements, when the water is placid and 
 clear. 
 
 That the eyesight of a fish is not only well adapt- 
 ed for daylight hours, but also for darkness, has been 
 often demonstrated by fly fishermen who have taken 
 trout after the blackness of night has settled upon the 
 water. 
 
 Many a good fish has been frightened out of bit- 
 ing by a movement on the part of the man on shore, 
 or by the shadow of the rod on the water, or the glint 
 of its ferrules in the sunlight. For this reason many 
 
 25 
 
anglers coat their rods with a dull finish that does not 
 reflect the sun's rays. 
 
 Just how far a fish can see through the medium 
 of clear water is a difficult question to answer, but 
 that his eyesight is sharp, there is no doubt. The 
 brook trout lying in wait for food sees the tiniest in- 
 sect that falls on the surface anywhere in the length 
 and breadth of his pool. 
 
 But if the water be rippled, the objects above the 
 surface are obscured and then fishermen, whether in 
 boat or on the shore, need not be so careful of their 
 movements. 
 
 As with many wary animals of the woods, so with 
 the fish, it cannot define a man on shore unless he 
 moves. You can rest quietly on a crossing log over 
 a stream, even near its surface, while big salmon may 
 fan their tails within reach of your hand. So long as 
 you remain motionless the fish may be unafraid, but 
 your slightest movement will send them scurrying in 
 fright to all parts of the pool. You may stand knee 
 deep in water and small fish will gambol and frisk be- 
 tween your legs, but move a foot and they will stam- 
 pede. 
 
 In addition to good eyesight fish are possessed 
 of an acute sense of "feel," which probably warns them 
 of the angler's presence when he cannot be seen, more 
 often than their sense of hearing does. If you doubt 
 this, conceal yourself on the shore of a pool contain- 
 ing fish and stamp sharply on the ground. This will 
 send them scurrying in all directions. Or pound on 
 the bottom of the boat where fish may be seen in shal- 
 low water and note the result. Water readily carries 
 the shock in vibrations to the fish. 
 
 Some fishermen think that you should not even 
 talk in a boat. Neverthless in reality you can safely 
 call loudly without frightening fish in the water be- 
 neath the surface. On the other hand, if the boat be 
 
 26 
 
thumped or jarred or the oars dropped noisily into 
 the water, all fish in the vicinity will feel it at once. 
 
 It has been conclusively demonstrated that fish 
 have a sense of smell. To prove this, it is only neces- 
 sary to enclose an angle worm in a small porous bag 
 and lower it into the water and if there are fish in the 
 water they will soon detect the presence of the worm in 
 the bag, even though they cannot see it. Now if an- 
 other like bag with no worm enclosed be lowered, it 
 has no attraction whatever for the same fish. 
 
 The sense of smell which a fish possesses is re- 
 sponsible for the various scents which are often used 
 on fish lures by certain anglers, but just how attrac- 
 tive such scents are to the fish is a debatable question. 
 
 WHEN TO SNUB OR JERK. 
 
 Every expert is sure that he knows the psycho- 
 logical instant when to "Jerk" or "Snub" while even 
 the beginner in the fishing game thinks he can tell you 
 within the fraction of a second the proper time to snub 
 a fish, so that the hook will be fastened securely. 
 
 "When to snub" depends largely on the kind of 
 fish that is biting and the kind of fishing you are do- 
 ing. What will apply on stream or brook, may not 
 apply on the lake. What may apply when fish are in 
 sight, may not apply when they are not visible. 
 
 To know when to snub may truly be said to be 
 much a matter of "feel." Granting that the fish is 
 out of sight, how the angler knows when to snub is 
 extremely hard to define. It is the fine art of fishing 
 that many a fisherman has mastered, but he cannot 
 tell the other fellow how to do it, if he would. The 
 message comes to him up along the line and down 
 through the rod to his hand — a sort of a telegraphic 
 code that he listens to without action until it spells 
 
 jNOw! 
 
 If he is fishing where he can see the movement of 
 27 
 
the fish which is nibbling his bait, he will snub when 
 the quarry takes the bait in its mouth and starts to 
 run with it — and he will pull in the opposite direction 
 to the moving fish. 
 
 When "plug" or still fishing from an anchored 
 boat, no two fishermen will agree on the proper in- 
 stant to snub and perhaps the better way for the be- 
 ginner to do would be to follow the advice of the man 
 who hooks the most fish. 
 
 One fisherman snubs at the first good solid down- 
 ward yank he gets. Another holds off until he sees 
 the line slant away, which means that the fish is run- 
 ning with the bait. Yet another, when the fish starts 
 to run will feed out line and let him carry the bait as 
 far as he will. After the fish stops he waits a mo- 
 ment and then snubs. Sometimes he finds the fish 
 has swallowed the bait and that the hook is half way 
 down its gullet and hard to extract. Other times he 
 finds that there is no resistance to the snub and when 
 his hook comes home it is bare of bait. 
 
 The waiting game may be the surest method of 
 all, but the average sportsman would rather risk hook- 
 ing a fish lightly in the lip and land it than to let it 
 swallow the bait and fight its last battle, handicapped 
 by having the hook way down its throat or stomach. 
 
 In trolling, the time to snub is always when you 
 feel the strike — if you are using an artificial bait. The 
 fish has a keen, quick sense of taste and takes only a 
 second's time to find out that he has bitten into a 
 "lemon" — which he immediately does his utmost to 
 expel from his mouth. 
 
 It is remarkable how quickly and successfully a 
 nibbler can spit out a barbed hook, unless it is struck 
 home by the fisherman at the instant he takes it into 
 his mouth. It is easy to get a bite, but not always easy 
 to successfully strike the fish. 
 
 It is probably safe to say that by no means half 
 of the fish which strike in trolling are ever fastened 
 on the hook by the fisherman. 
 
 28 
 
"What luck?" asks your fishing comrade as his 
 boat passes. "Just had a good strike," you answer, 
 "but he didn't get fast." Or you say "nothing but 
 nibbles so far." 
 
 Some fishermen when trolling with live bait, go 
 very slowly, often stopping the boat in order to give 
 the minnow on the hook an opportunity to ma- 
 noeuver on its own account. Then if they get a strike 
 they pay off the line as is sometimes done in plug 
 fishing and do not snub until the fish either rushes or 
 has had time to swallow the bait. 
 
 Another favorite method in trolling with live 
 bait is when you feel the first touch of the fish, let 
 the tip of your rod go back toward it as far as you can 
 reach, then snub. It is argued that this method, 
 gives the fish an opportunity to get the bait well into 
 his mouth, so that when the snub comes the hook 
 will be more likely to fasten. 
 
 The amateur is likely, in his excitement when 
 he feels the fish nibbling, to snub too soon. Thus he 
 often snatches the bait away from the fish and dis- 
 courages it from further biting, but it is not always 
 the amateur who does this — some men who have 
 fished many years, find it is a very difficult matter to 
 be patient when a fish is nibbling at their hook, and 
 wait until the proper moment. 
 
 Then again, how many of us snub too hard ! We 
 can't seem to learn the lesson that a gentle snub is 
 not only more sportsmanlike, but more successful 
 than the vigorous yank. The quick snap hooks more 
 fish than, the slower, longer jerk. Practice snub- 
 bing with your wrist — a short, quick jerk. 
 
 When a fish is kind enough to take your bait, it 
 is a mean trick to reciprocate by trying to jerk his 
 head off. Not only that, but by this strenuous method 
 you will jerk the bait away, or tear the hook free and 
 thus lose, by violence, many a fish that you might 
 have had by a more genteel method — not "beef," but 
 "brain !" Remember that, when you fish. 
 
 29 
 
CASTING THE PLY 
 
 To make an ordinary overhead cast correctly, the 
 tyro should begin with a leader not more than two 
 yards long and with two flies. Supposing then, the 
 rod and line correctly balanced, and mounted with a 
 suitable leader and flies ; he should draw off from the 
 reel as much line as once and a half the length of his 
 rod, holding the end fly between the finger and thumb 
 of the left hand, and grasping the rod a little above 
 the reel with his right, gently waving it a few times, 
 until he gets the required momentum to carry out the 
 line, when he should release the fly, making at the 
 same time a cut with the rod, over and in line with 
 the spot where he intends his flies to alight, care be- 
 ing taken in doing this, that the point of the rod is not 
 allowed to drop further than at right angles to him- 
 self. 
 
 He will do well at first to fish down stream, as 
 should he not have made the first cast correctly, the 
 stream will put the matter right and float the line and 
 flies out straight. Then he should raise the point of 
 the rod gently upwards, in order to get as much line 
 clear of the water as possible, and also to give the 
 flies a life-like motion before making the back stroke, 
 in fact, all but the flies should be clear of the water. 
 Then with a smart stroke back over his head, slightly 
 inclining the rod point to the right, he should lift his 
 line clear behind him, at the same time avoiding all 
 elbow work, and without allowing the rod point to go 
 back further than an angle of 45 degrees to the body. 
 Having done this, a moment's reflection will tell him, 
 that as the line went back in a curve, it will take an 
 instant to straighten after the rod is thrown back into 
 the required position. This is very important, as the 
 line should have time to straighten out before the re- 
 turn cast is made. If it has not, it is possible he will 
 hear a slight crack, signifying that his flies have gone. 
 
 30 
 
Bear in mind that throwing the flies back correctly is 
 as important as laying them straight and fine across 
 the water. 
 
 Now it only remains to drive the line and flies 
 forward, by smartly bringing the rod down into the 
 horizontal position again, and in doing this he should 
 aim at a point, say two or three feet above where he 
 intends the flies to fall, as they should not be thrown 
 at, but above, so that they may alight softly on the 
 water. If he studies these directions correctly, it will 
 be seen that there are three movements and a pause. 
 I. Raise the rod point in order to get as much line 
 clear of the water as possible, a. Make the backward 
 sweep, then pause until the line gets time to straight- 
 en, but not so long as to allow the flies to drop and 
 catch the grass. 3. Make the cast as described over 
 the place intended. 
 
 Having in some degree mastered this, he may let 
 out a little more line (about a yard at a time) until he 
 finds he can fairly command the water being fished. 
 
 POINTS ON FLY FISHING 
 
 A single action reel, with protected handle or 
 handle attached to revolving plate is the best. 
 
 A good enamel "Kingfisher" line, size E is the 
 ideal one. 
 
 A six foot leader with loops, leader proportionate 
 to size of line is the best and with loops attached will 
 last twice as long as one without loops. 
 
 Large bright colored flies for early season fishing 
 in deep water, small flies in running shallow water. 
 
 Fish up stream. The fish lie with their noses to 
 the current — your flies float more naturally down to 
 them and they are easily hooked by this way. 
 
 31 
 
A great art is striking and hooking the fish. 
 When a fish is seen to rise, the rod should be quickly 
 raised but with the wrist motion only. This motion 
 is not a jerk, but just enough to tighten the line which 
 will suffice to hook the fish. Tackle is apt to be brok- 
 en by a jerk. Remember the object of striking is sim- 
 ply to fix the hook into the fish's mouth, so that he 
 will not blow the fly out when he discovers it is not 
 a natural one. 
 
 Small fish are easily lead to the net, but with the 
 ones weighing over a half a pound caution must be 
 used. Keep the line taut all the time. If the fish 
 rushes do not attempt to stop him, but the minute he 
 stops hold him firmly and in a few minutes he will be 
 well tamed and ready for the net. Now is the time to 
 reel in. Advance the butt of the rod, and using its 
 flexibility for a safeguard, the fish may be brought 
 easily to net. 
 
 Always in fly fishing take the fly very carefully 
 from the water, and this applies also to line, for the 
 fish are easily frightened. Never let the fly alight on 
 the water until you are sure it is going to land where 
 you want it to. It is better to make another cast than 
 place the fly wrongly. 
 
 After a cast the line should extend straight out 
 in front of you. Place your flies as naturally as pos- 
 sible upon the water. 
 
 HOW TO KNOW WHAT FLIES TO USE 
 
 Here is where the writer is likely to get into an- 
 other hot argument. 
 
 There are nearly as many flies as there are hairs 
 in the head of the fishermen. Some anglers insist on 
 carrying loo or more different varieties of flies in their 
 book, on the theory that if they try 99 of the flies with- 
 out luck, the hundredth one must be the killer. 
 
 On the other hand many veteran anglers argue 
 32 
 
1909 
 
 The famous 1909 "Bristol" Calendar (now out 
 of print) of which so many art proofs were sold. 
 This proved to be in great demand for decorating 
 dens, smoking-rooms, club-rooms and private 
 offices. 
 
 The original painting from which this was 
 made was done in oil by Oliver Kemp, the 
 artist-sportsman, and is now valued at $500. 
 
that if a fish will not take one of a dozen popular flies 
 offered him, he will not take any and that you might 
 as well postpone the sport until he is in a hungry 
 mood. 
 
 There must be some truth in this theory, be- 
 cause the man with a few flies often takes as many or 
 more fish than the angler who spends half his time 
 bending on new varieties. 
 
 There is little doubt, however, that the salmon 
 and the trout are more particular about the fly they 
 take than the bass, who if he is fly-hungry will come 
 to almost anything in the line of feathers. 
 
 Without particularizing as to the names of flies 
 (for every fisherman swears by his favorites and to of- 
 fer him substitutes would only make the discussion 
 wax warmer) it may not be out of place to say that 
 the fly fisherman should not leave camp or home with 
 less than a dozen popular flies. 
 
 These should contain or combine the colors of 
 gray, red, brown, dun, yellow, wine, tan, blue, green 
 and mouse hue. He should also have one black and 
 one white fly in his book. 
 
 As to tying and tinsel he may follow .his own 
 fancy. 
 
 He will profit by studying the insects on the 
 water, for which the fish are rising and by trying to 
 imitate them as nearly as possible with the flies in his 
 book. 
 
 Broadly speaking, the louder and more gaudy 
 hued flies should be used during the dawn or twilight 
 hours and the more sombre and less showy flies when 
 the sun is on the water. 
 
 There seem to be exceptions to all fishing rules, 
 however, and if the fish don't rise to the dull flies in 
 sunlight, you may be able to dazzle them into biting 
 by the flashy ones — try them. 
 
 33 
 
BAIT CASTING. 
 
 Some beginners buy a cheap rigging, thinking 
 that after they learn to bait cast, they will get a high- 
 er-priced outfit. Don't imagine you can learn just as 
 well on a cheap rigging — you can't. 
 
 Your rod should be a good one and your reel any 
 one of the standard casting reels, accurately made and 
 set up to a nicety. Your line should also be an A-i 
 casting line made for that purpose. 
 
 Learning to cast an artificial bait, so as to get 
 distance and accuracy, takes infinite patience and per- 
 sistence. 
 
 Begin modestly. Don't try to cast far at first. 
 Pay more attention to keeping your line and reel un- 
 der control than to distance. 
 
 Try to "keep your brains in your thumb," mean- 
 ing the thumb you use to regulate the outflow of line 
 from the reel and to check it as the bait strikes the 
 water. 
 
 Learn to spool the line with your thumb or finger 
 as you reel in, and by and by this action will become 
 mechanical. 
 
 Artificial spoolers are not satisfactory. Half the 
 time they won't work and when they do work they re- 
 tard the line both going out and coming in. 
 
 If casting for fish rather than for fun, don't cast 
 more than 25 to 35 feet. This is far enough for fish 
 and you can make more casts to a minute at this dis- 
 tance and cover more ground in a given time than you 
 can when casting at a longer range, because reeling 
 in after long casts takes time. 
 
 If casting into the wind, there is an under-hand 
 cast that is effective, but hard to describe. Ask a good 
 bait caster to show you this knack. 
 
 Cast lightly with the wind, which will help your 
 lure along. 
 
 34 
 
Be careful on your back swings that the bait does 
 not catch on the rowlocks, oars, or the edge of the 
 boat. 
 
 Begin to move the bait by reeling in as soon as 
 it strikes the water. 
 
 Snub very gently if at all — the speed at which the 
 bait is moving should be sufficient to set the barbs. 
 
 Cover the shore line carefully with casts about 
 lo feet apart. 
 
 Good bass fishing is often found by casting from 
 the boat toward shore in water not deeper than two 
 feet. 
 
 Don't neglect the waters around islands. 
 
 Red, white, blue, wooden floating "casting bait" 
 has proved one of the best bass baits on the market. 
 Nobody seems to know what moves a bass to tackle 
 this gaudy lure which looks like neither fish, flesh nor 
 fowl, but bass will grab it. 
 
 You cannot do a very satisfactory job of bait 
 casting unless you have somebody to handle the boat. 
 
 If you are alone, better run the bow of the boat 
 ashore and let it rest there until you have covered all 
 the water you can reach. Then move to new water and 
 repeat, or you can go ashore and follow it up and 
 down, casting as you move. 
 
 Often you can coax the fish into biting, after a 
 cast, by moving the bait a few feet toward the boat 
 and then permitting it to rest on the water for a few 
 seconds — then move a few feet more, etc. But al- 
 ways be ready to snub if the bait is not moving. 
 
 Good practice in bait casting may be had by us- 
 ing a sinker of the same weight as the regulation cast- 
 ing bait and throwing it for distance and accuracy on 
 the lawn. Lay down your hat and see how near you 
 can come to it at 50 or 60 feet. 
 
 Bait casting even when you get no fish is good 
 fun. It is a joy to see the lure rainbow through the air 
 in a graceful curve, and to cast for accuracy is almost 
 as interesting as shooting at a mark. 
 
 35 
 
TROLLING. 
 
 Don't put out too much line — 75 feet or in any 
 case 100 feet is enough. Some fishermen think 50 feet 
 enough. 
 
 If you are trolling with a spoon, you can tell 
 whether it is revolving by the vibrations of the tip 
 of your rod, which you can see or feel. 
 
 If there are leaves or "driftings" on the surface, 
 examine your lure frequently to see if it has fouled — 
 a fish is not likely to take a bait that is covered with 
 leaves or grass. 
 
 With a spoon troll zig-zag as the rising of the 
 spoon which settles at the turns is a great "coaxer." 
 
 Troll in straight lines, then when you turn com- 
 pletely let the circle which the boat makes be a large 
 one. If you get a strike on a sharp curve you are at a 
 disadvantage in snubbing, because the line is curved 
 in the water, and will tend to straighten before the 
 barb strikes home. 
 
 Use sinkers advisedly. This may become neces- 
 sary when the surface is disturbed or when the water 
 is warm. 
 
 Always have your line and rod under control, 
 when letting out your line or reeling it in — no telling 
 when a fish will nab it. 
 
 If you are in the stern seat, and the other fellow 
 is rowing, lean back and take things easy with your 
 rod in the crotch of your elbow and the tip well back 
 so you can snub. 
 
 Don't be forever looking back to see if your line 
 is coming along. 
 
 Hold your line between your thumb and finger 
 so it won't run off the reel when you snub — then let 
 go of it quickly. Often the line is locked fast around 
 the reel handle by the angler, but if so it must be 
 thrown free instantly after the snub. 
 
 36 
 
If you are rowing the boat and fishing, let the rod 
 handle rest between your legs, just above the keel 
 where you can get it in hand quickly if you have a 
 strike. The other portion of the rod may rest in a 
 crotched stick, stuck in the gunwale of the boat, about 
 one-third of the length of your rod from the tip. 
 
 If two fishermen are trolling from the same boat, 
 the lure of one should be on the surface and that of 
 the other should be carried below the surface by a 
 sinker. Both should not have out an equal length of 
 line. Two fishermen in the same boat should use 
 different lures. 
 
 Be careful in changing places in the boat. 
 
 When one man gets a strike, the other should al- 
 ways reel in quickly so that the lines may not become 
 crossed and snarled. 
 
 Rod holders are not very satisfactory. 
 
 STILL FISHING OR "PLUGGING" 
 
 This subject has already been fully covered un- 
 der "Favorite Nooks of Favorite Fish," "Playing the 
 Fish," "When to Snub," etc. 
 
 AM NO STRANGER. 
 
 "Am no stranger, however, to the merits of Bristol 
 Rods, having used a couple for several years, finding 
 them far superior to any of the wood rods at the same 
 price." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Zanesville, Ohio, October 19th, 1910, 
 
 37 
 
HOW TO USE A LANDING NET. 
 
 How many fish are lost in the netting! No mat- 
 ter how expert you are, you have probably lost more 
 than one good one by fumbling the net, even after 
 your fish was tired and easily led. 
 
 Worse by far than losing your own fish by your 
 own clumsiness in the netting is to volunteer to net a 
 fish for your comrade and then lose it for him. That 
 is almost a crime and if forgiven is never forgotten. 
 
 And this is why some anglers will never propose 
 to net a fish for a brother unless asked and then only 
 with the understanding that the man who has the fish 
 on the line, will take all responsibility for blunders on 
 the part of the man with the net. 
 
 The suggestions which follow apply more par- 
 ticularly to big fish, where more care must be exercis- 
 ed, than in brook fishing where the fish will not go 
 over two pounds. 
 
 First of all have a net firmly knit at least i8 inches 
 deep (some anglers use a 24 inch net for salmon) 
 and the net ring should be an iron hoop from 15 to 
 20 inches in diameter and firmly driven into a hoe or 
 fork handle, bound where it enters by a band or fer- 
 rule. 
 
 Now you have a safe net for fish from two pounds 
 up to as large as you are likely to take in fresh water. 
 
 Often at the bottom of the net is an iron ring 
 about two inches in diameter, through which the 
 strands are woven and this ring is of sufficient weight 
 to carry the bottom of the net well down. 
 
 In using the net it is a matter of dispute among 
 fishermen as to which is the better method, to 
 lead the fish in "head on" or land him "tail first." 
 Some say that if the former method is used and the 
 nose of the fish is rammed into the bottom of the net 
 without fouling the hooks in the net ring or meshes, 
 there is absolutely no danger of his using his tail as 
 
 38 
 
a spring against the net bottom when the net is lifted 
 from the water. Others maintain that a fish well 
 played and landed tail first is too tired and limp to 
 spring out. They claim that this method is not only 
 simplest and easiest but involves little if any danger 
 of ensnaring the hooks in the net, which always means 
 a lost fish. One expert tersely said, "Imagine anyone 
 leading a 5 lb. bass with a 4 oz. rod into a net 'head 
 on' !" 
 
 The net bottom should be made to spread flat 
 rather than to hang to a point. 
 
 The man who strikes, plays and nets his own fish 
 (if it is a big fellow) has his work cut out for him, but 
 many anglers net their own fish rather than trust this 
 important task to another. 
 
 Don't reach for the net until you feel sure the fish 
 is "all in." It often happens that no matter how sure 
 you are, he has kept one last rush "up his sleeve" for 
 this netting emergency. 
 
 With your thumb on the reel spool, so that you 
 can give more line if he rushes, lower the net in the 
 water a safe distance from him. If he shies at it, lay 
 down your net and play him to exhaustion until you 
 can lead him on a short line in any direction yov 
 please. 
 
 And while he is on a short line, endeavor to keep 
 him under the surface — many a good one on the sur- 
 face has been lost with a free "slat" of the head, which 
 has torn loose the hook and permitted him to swim 
 slowly and weakly to the depths. 
 
 When your fish is no longer net-shy, lead him in 
 a circle and as you turn him near the boat, bring the 
 net under water toward him. 
 
 Never be sure of your fish until he is dead. Re- 
 move the hook without taking him from the net and 
 then before you remove him, tap him lightly on the 
 head with the "killing stick" before you wrap him in 
 the moist bag and put him away in the shade. 
 
 39 
 
Some fishermen will not put the net in water (ex- 
 cept to moisten it and take the kinks out) until they 
 make a stab at netting the fish, in which case netting 
 become more of a "hit or miss" proposition. If at 
 first they don't succeed, they try, try again. 
 
 TEN YEARS AGO. 
 
 "I bought one of your fly-rods ten years ago, and 
 it is good for a long time yet." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Seattle, Wash., February 7th, 1910. 
 
 FIVE YEARS AGO. 
 
 "I have used the 'Bristol' Rod for the past five 
 or six years and find in it every thing you claim for it." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Pittston, Pa., March i6th, 1910. 
 
 THIRTEEN YEARS AGO. 
 
 "I have a 'Bristol' steel rod that has been in use 
 for thirteen years and is still in good condition." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Danbury, Conn., February loth, 1910. 
 
 MEMBERS OF COURT, TOO. 
 
 "Both my son and myself have owned and used 
 a number of 'Bristol' Rods ; we have four now. Here 
 in our Court, some of its members have them." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Cleveland, Ohio, March i8th, 1910. 
 
 A "GO-GET-HER." 
 
 "I already have a 'Bristol' Rod and it is certainly 
 a 'go-get-her.' I wouldn't trade it for a dozen others, 
 if I knew they were good." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Boise, Idaho, March 7th, 1910. 
 
 40 
 
FISHING IN WADERS. 
 
 The best outfit for wading is the Mackintosh 
 wading pants, which cover the lower portions of the 
 body and reach up under the armpits and are fastened 
 over the shoulders by straps. 
 
 These can be purchased with regular rubber boot 
 bottoms if desired or come with stocking feet, and 
 this necessitates a pair of especially constructed boots 
 with leather soles, hob nailed if desired and upper of 
 canvas, the whole made so as to let water run out 
 easily. 
 
 Heavy woolen stockings should be worn inside 
 the wading pants and warm outer clothing and under- 
 clothing to offset the chill of the water in early spring, 
 but when the winter chill is gone from the water many 
 sportsmen do away entirely with outer garments and 
 find the outfit sufficiently warm. 
 
 Don 't wear waders out of the water as they are 
 worse than rubber boots on a hot day. Dry them 
 thoroughly on the inside, (for the feet always sweat) 
 but not near a fire, as the extra heat will soon put a 
 finish to them. Hang them in the sun to dry or else 
 dry with heated pebbles or grain. 
 
 Besides furnishing one better opportunities to 
 fly fish, wading provides lots of sport (for the other 
 fellow) for the stunt of jumping from rock to rock, 
 many of which are covered with weeds or slime, often 
 gives one an involuntary bath. 
 
 And the subject of wading brings forth the sub- 
 ject of the proper method of fishing a stream. 
 
 Always fish up stream. Begin at the lower end 
 of the stream or pool and fly fish all likely looking 
 spots up and across. Wade gently and fish every foot 
 of good looking water. On getting a strike and hook- 
 ing the fish, bring him gently down stream near you, 
 so as not to alarm other fish. Fish are easily fright- 
 ened and the angler fishing down stream has luck in 
 getting one fish out of every six. 
 
 41 
 
Water is easily riled and frightens the fish. The 
 fish lie with their noses up stream and can see the 
 flies, line and also the angler more readily as he comes 
 down stream. When casting up stream the fly will 
 lie more naturalh^ zn the water, the fish will take it 
 in a more nat'- .^ manner as it floats with the current 
 and lying as ihey do with their bodies in a direct line 
 from the rod, they are much easier to hook. 
 
 REPAIRING WADERS 
 
 Rubber boots worn by anglers are frequently cut 
 by jagged rocks and sharp sticks. A good durable 
 cement is made from pure rubber, cut with a wet knife 
 into very small shreds and placed in a wide-mouthed 
 bottle containing the best of benzine. If the mixture 
 assumes a thin appearance add more rubber; if very 
 thick, add more benzine. This makes an excellent 
 cement, which when ready for use, has the consistency 
 of thick syrup. Two or three coats applied to the 
 edges of the patch and around the edge of the hole or 
 break are all that is necessary. 
 
 NOT MUCH CHANCE TO FISH. 
 
 "I have owned a 'Bristol' light Bass Rod for about 
 four years, and although I do not get a chance to use 
 it as often as I would like to, I have always found it 
 satisfactory." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Philadelphia, Pa., March 2d, 1910, 
 
 THE BEST EVER. 
 
 "Have used your 'Bristol' Rod for Bass and Pick- 
 erel fishing on the New York Lakes, and they are the 
 best ever." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Marathon, Fla., January 7th, 1910. 
 
 42 
 
GETTING LOOSE FROM SNAGS. 
 
 There is nothing so trying to the temper of the 
 fisherman as to suddenly find his hook snagged, where 
 the fishing is good — unless it is to lose his catch in 
 netting after he tires it out. 
 
 The "gentle art," however, should teach the fish- 
 erman patience and it is not the mark of a true sports- 
 man to fuss and fume and fly to pieces and swear, when 
 his hook gets fast. No amount of sulphurous language 
 will loosen the hook. Keep cool, be calm and above all, 
 work slowly. 
 
 If you are "Still" fishing and the fish has made a 
 run with your hook and then stopped while you waited 
 for him to swallow the bait, only to find, upon jerking, 
 that your hook is solid and fast, rest the case for a 
 while on this information. Instead of yanking a second 
 time m an effort to loosen your line, let it slack, lay 
 down your rod, light your pipe and look at the scenery 
 on shore five minutes. 
 
 Then take up your rod again and tighten the line 
 gently, feeling your way to find out whether it is still 
 fast. Often your hook will be found loose after this 
 experiment and will come to the surface bare of bait. 
 Then again it may surprise you to find a good fish hard 
 and fast on the hook, which will give you a battle royal, 
 so frequently you will not only get your hook and lead- 
 er, but also something for the frying pan — just because 
 you had a little patience. 
 
 Often in an instance of this kind the fish will run 
 with the bait under a rock or a root, and the sinker may 
 become wedged between rocks or when you "snub" 
 (jerk) you merely pulled the bait from the mouth of 
 the fish, which has not yet had time to swallow it, and 
 the hook catches on a rock or snag. 
 
 Whether the sinker is fast or the hook is fast, let 
 the line slack and if you give the fish an opportunity, he 
 will often solve the problem for you himself, by loosen- 
 ing the bait. 
 
 43 
 
If the above plan fails to work, the first thing to 
 do is to observe whether or not the line when pulled 
 taut tends toward the anchor rope. If it does, lift the 
 anchor and find out whether the hook be fast in the 
 strands of the rope or wound about it as is often the 
 case. 
 
 If you are sure your hook is clear of the anchor 
 rope, reel up until the line is taut and your rod is bent 
 into a rainbow. While you hold it thus with one hand, 
 with the other pound the rod sharply, ahead of your 
 reel. 
 
 This will often bring the hook free. If it does not, 
 try the same scheme from different directions around 
 the fast hook as a center. 
 
 If all that fails then tie a rock [of course you'll 
 have one in the boat ( ?) ] weighing a pound or two to 
 the line, say 12 or 15 feet from the hook. Lower the 
 rock until it rests on the bottom and move the boat 
 off 50 to 75 feet from where the line is fast. Then try 
 to drag the rock, between you and the hook that is 
 fast, gently along the bottom toward you. Repeat 
 this until you make a circuit of the hook and if the 
 steady pull does not bring results try a quick lift of 
 the rock, but do not be too strenuous or your line may 
 part. 
 
 If not loose yet, (provided you are near enough 
 shore for your line to reach), cut a long straight sapling 
 and trim it, leaving a crotch on the top. Get into the 
 boat again, reel up your line to the leader, and if your 
 rod is long enough, wind the leader around the tip until 
 you are down to your hook. Maybe you can twist it 
 out without breaking. If you cannot, unwind until 
 your tip is above the surface again. Let the line run 
 through the crotch in the sapling and follow down the 
 line until you come to the lure. Then, while you keep 
 a tight line, push down on the sapling against the lure 
 and you may bring it free without breakage, but if you 
 break your hook you will at least have left your leader. 
 
 44 
 
If your rod is not long enough so that its tip will 
 reach the hook and the other methods told above have 
 all failed, the only thing to do is to reel up all the line 
 you can, poinrt the rod down into the water vertically at 
 the fast hook, hold the line tightly and pull slowly up- 
 ward, increasing the strain on the line gradually. 
 
 You may be fast to a limb of a chunk that the line 
 will gradually lift to the surface, or a portion of it may 
 give way and return your hook to you O. K. 
 
 At any rate, keep pulling steadily upward until 
 something gives — there is no other way now. 
 
 If yqu are trolling and your hook becomes fast, 
 back up and reel in, until you are behind the point 
 where the line tends downward vertically. Then pull 
 on the line in the opposite direction from that in which 
 you were moving when the hook fastened. Your lure 
 probably caught on a rock and will readily come loose. 
 
 When brook fishing, if your fly becomes fast in a 
 tree at the back cast, at a height far above your head, 
 treat your outfit very gently. If one fly is fast and the 
 others are free, it will take only one or two yanks to 
 fasten the others. Lay down your rod, cut a stick long 
 enough to reach the fly and you may be able to loosen 
 it in this manner. 
 
 If you can see that your fly is fast to a twig, and 
 if you have a bit of string or extra fish line in your 
 pocket, open the sharpest blade of your pen knife, tie 
 the knife handle fast to the end of the stick and cut 
 the twig with the blade. 
 
 If these means fail of their purpose, you may 
 have to climb the tree in order to extricate the fly and 
 save your leader, but unless you are a good climber 
 and you can reach the fly without risk, better stay on 
 the ground and break your line instead of your arm 
 or leg. 
 
 45 
 
SALT WATER FISHING. 
 
 None of the sporting magazines of the country 
 devote sufficient space to salt water fishing. That 
 this sport will furnish enough excitement to please 
 the most ardent sportsman is becoming better known 
 and the number of devotees of it is constantly in- 
 creasing. 
 
 In recent years this is due to the change in tackle 
 and where formerly heavy cumbersome rods, lines and 
 reels were used and made this sort of fishing hard 
 work instead of sport, the tendency nowadays is to 
 use the light tackle such as a bass fisherman would 
 use. 
 
 Some genius discovered that most excellent sport 
 could be had bait casting for weakfish, and opened the 
 eyes of the old stagers at the game. And didn't it 
 jar them when he landed a five-pound tide-runner on 
 a six and one-half foot No. 25 Bristol rod and an 80 
 yard reel ! They were using eighteen ounce "salt 
 water" rods and 150 to 200 yard reels. The same ang- 
 ler subsequently went after blue fish with the same 
 tackle although at first he replaced many tips. Ever 
 hook a five pound blue, brother? He can give a five 
 pound small mouth cards and spades. The next year 
 when in a school of weakfish he used trout tackle and 
 an automatic reel, although when after "tide-runners," 
 as the big solitary fellows are called, he stuck to bass 
 tackle. Of course he dispensed with flies, using three- 
 foot leaders and Carlisle hooks on a swivel with clam, 
 shedder-chab, fish bellies, sand worms, blood worms 
 and shrimp for bait. 
 
 The best sport he ever had was with "snappers," 
 as the young blue fish are termed locally. Used a 
 ten-foot fly-rod, enameled line, automatic reel, fly 
 stripped of feathers and bated with macaroni. These 
 little four and five inch chaps are sure game. He got 
 the surprise of his life, though, two years ago. Got 
 a strike and then a fight. He states he only had fifty 
 
 46 
 
yards of "Kingfisher" on the automatic and it sure had 
 him buffaloed for fear he'd lose out, but after forty 
 minutes he landed a half-pound mackerel, and this 
 little fellow was as courageous as a bulldog. 
 
 Sea bass fishing is also good sport, but the fish- 
 erman should have good light tarpon tackle and a 
 250 yard reel, as these fellows sometimes scale better 
 than forty pounds. Tried them on light tackle at 
 Asbury Park, but they bent two rods and literally 
 took a Shakespeare eighty yard reel apart before he 
 concluded to get heavier tackle. He used to use split 
 bamboo, lance wood, green-heart, etc., rods, but passed 
 them all up in favor of the Bristol steel. Now has four, 
 although he still retains a lance wood tarpon rod for 
 surf fishing for sea bass, but intends to substitute a 
 Bristol rod for that too, and believes any of the auto- 
 matics have it on the 60, 80, or 100 standard reels, such 
 as Shakespeare, Vom Hofe, etc. He uses a 250 yard 
 Vom Hofe for surf fishing and says it's a dandy. 
 
 SURF FISHING 
 
 Surf fishing requires a heavy rod, yet one that 
 has a good deal of elasticity. On this account we re- 
 commend the No. 21 muscallonge rod which is manu- 
 factured by the Bristol Rod Company. Have this fit- 
 ted with agate guides and agate tip. Purchase a good 
 free running German silver reel, which will hold 600 
 feet of good line. This should have a click and be fit- 
 ted with thumb brake or handle drag. A favorite line 
 with anglers is No. 15 Cutty hunk although there are 
 some experts who use the smaller No. 12, and others 
 who prefer the heavier. No. 18. The line is attached to 
 a triangular swivel, from which also leads a six ounce 
 Pyramid sinker on a six to eight inch line, and a 12 
 to 18 inch six-ply gut leader or metal lead. The 
 favorite hook is No. 9-0 Limerick, baited with crabs. 
 
 Surf fishing requires casts of a minimum of 75 
 
 47 
 
feet and this is no child's play. Many anglers use the 
 side casts, which with the heavy outfit seems to be 
 easiest to acquire, but the more expert will use the 
 over-head cast. 
 
 In baiting your hook it is well to tie the shedder 
 crab onto the hook with a cotton thread. 
 
 FATHER'S, 8 YEARS AGO. 
 
 "I have a 'Bristol' telescopic Rod which my father 
 purchased over eight years ago, and it is still as good 
 as new." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Maywood, 111., March 19th, 1910. 
 
 A LOT OF GOOD CATCHES. 
 
 "I have had a No. 11 'Bristol' Steel Rod for five 
 years — find it the best rod I have ever used; have had 
 a lot of good catches on it. Here is a picture of two 
 trout I caught last May, the small one weighing 33^, 
 the large one ig}i pounds, trolling in Winnasquan 
 Lake this City." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Laconia, N. H., March 2d, 1910. 
 
 "BELIEVE MEI" 
 
 "Say you don't think I have fished 10 years for 
 nothing, but the fish, do you? Well, I guess not, the 
 last five years I have fished for sport, and during that 
 time I have used a 'Bristol,' nothing but a 'Bristol,' 
 and wouldn't take five times what it cost if I couldn't 
 get another like it. I certainly think that the 'Bristol' 
 Rod is the best thing on the market at the present 
 day." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Mayfield, N. Y., February loth, 1910. 
 
 48 
 
Brotherhood among fishermen. 
 
 If you are a true follower of the gentle art, you 
 are a sportsman and if you are a sportsman, then 
 every other man who fishes is your brother wherever 
 you may meet him. 
 
 This free and easy feeling which exists, possesses 
 you with the privilege when you meet a fisherman on 
 brook or lake, whether you have ever seen him before 
 or not, to give the hailing sign, "What luck?" and the 
 true brother in the art will always return you a cour- 
 teous answer. 
 
 Brotherhood among fishermen gives you the right, 
 if belated or hungry, to apply at any fishing camp for 
 food or bed, and at the first opportunity which pre- 
 sents itself, you will of course pass this courtesy along 
 to another brother similarly situated. 
 
 True brotherhood in fishing will cause you to di- 
 vide the bait in your pail with the angler you meet who 
 has none, and if you have forgotten your fly book and 
 lost those on your leader, you may ask without hesita- 
 tion of the first fisherman you meet for the loan of a 
 fly. 
 
 If a brother alone in a boat wants help either in 
 handling the boat or landing the fish, welcome the op- 
 portunity to help him. 
 
 There are of course limits to what a fisherman is 
 expected to do for a brother angler. He is not expect- 
 ed to loan his pet rod or his fishing kit, and it would 
 take more nerve than a real fisherman possesses to 
 ask for the loan of such things. 
 
 Around the camp fire the same good comradeship 
 should prevail. It has been truly said many times by 
 many fishermen that you never know a man until you 
 camp with him and share with him the joys and hard- 
 ships of the woods and waters. If he has a "yellow 
 streak" in him, if he is selfish, if he is a shirk, be sure 
 that camp life will show up these traits. If he is 
 game and generous, and courteous and loyal, he will 
 have ample opportunity to display it. 
 
 49 
 
CARING FOR THE FISH. 
 
 There are some men, not sportsmen, who seem 
 to lose all interest in a fish after it has been caught. 
 It is true that the keenest delight of fishing consists 
 in playing the fish, but there is something radically 
 wrong with the man who loses all interest in his 
 catch after the struggle is over and permits it to lie 
 uncared for in the boat, or exposed to the sun's rays, 
 so that when he reaches camp, it is stiff, hard and 
 dry. 
 
 One of the delights of fishing is to be able to 
 show your catch to your friends. Therefore you 
 should have pride enough to want the fish to appear 
 to the best advantage. A catch of trout dumped 
 helter-skelter into a creel that contains nothing to 
 keep them fresh, soon becomes a sticky, smelly, re- 
 pulsive spectacle — reflecting severely on the sports- 
 manship of the angler who owns it. 
 
 If you are lake fishing, carry a short-sack, or a 
 grain sack with you. After you catch your fish, douse 
 the sack in water, wring it out partially, then wrap 
 the fish in it and stow them away in the shade under 
 the stern seat or in the bow. 
 
 If you are brook fishing, bed down the bottom 
 of your basket with a layer of fresh leaves, grass or 
 moss which has been immersed in water, and after 
 you have caught a few trout, add another similar 
 layer, and proceed in this manner until you have all 
 the trout you want — or all you think you ought to 
 take. The fish in the sack and the fish in the basket 
 will be equally limp, moist, cool and fresh, and but 
 little faded hours afterward, if you follow this course. 
 
 To keep a fish indefinitely on ice : First clean it 
 and then wipe out the inside by means of a clean, 
 dry cloth. Instead of placing it directly against the 
 ice wrap it in a rubber blanket or a woolen cloth and 
 lay it on the ice. 
 
 50 
 
If you want to snip it by express to a friend, 
 wipe the fish dry inside, as directed above, rub salt 
 well into the cavity, especially along the backbone, 
 and fill with moss or cool leaves, unmoistened. Then 
 pack the fish in moistened moss or leaves and you 
 may be sure the fish will thus keep sweet in warm 
 weather for two days or longer. 
 
 There is a knack in cleaning fish that enables one 
 man to clean three or four while the other fellow 
 is cleaning one. 
 
 If he is a big fellow and is to be baked, you will, 
 of course, do nothing but take out the insides and 
 scale. The head, tail and fins, you will leave on. The 
 head, tail and fins of pan fish you will, of course, re- 
 move, together with the scales. 
 
 A novel way to prepare a bass for the table is 
 to take out the inside, behead it, cut off the tail and 
 fins, split it along the spine inside, so that it will lie 
 flat in the spider and fry skin down with the scales 
 on, with a cover over your spider. Serve skin down, 
 butter, pepper and salt. Pick down to the skin and 
 discard it. 
 
 OWN 3, WANTS 4, 
 
 "I am the proud possessor of three 'Bristol' steel 
 rods. One of them I have owned and used for about 
 eleven years, and it has seen some pretty hard use, 
 too. I wish to add one more 'Bristol' to my collection 
 very soon, and I think it will be one of your Special 
 Bait Casting Rods, No. 27. Will you kindly quote 
 me price on same?" 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 West Chester, Pa., November ist, 1910. 
 
 51 
 
HOW TO KEEP BAIT 
 
 LIVE MINNOWS. 
 
 If minnows are kept in a place where cold spring 
 water flows over them and are placed in a minnow 
 pail filled with lake or river water of a higher tem- 
 perature, it is common for a great many of them to 
 die. If the bait bucket is filled with the water in 
 which the minnows are kept, and the water is chang- 
 ed gradually while fishing, so that the water will be- 
 come of a different temperature very slowly, the min- 
 nows will be as lively as anyone could wish. 
 
 A very excellent way to keep the minnows in 
 good shape without having to keep dipping water is 
 to take an ordinary bicycle pump and occasionally 
 pump some air into the water. This seems to do the 
 minnows as much good as to change the water fre- 
 quently. Not too many minnows should be taken to 
 the fishing hole, for the more crowded they are, the 
 harder it is to keep them alive. 
 
 WORMS. 
 
 Worms are best kept in an earthen jar, but a tin 
 can with holes punched in the bottom will suffice. Fill 
 receptacle with green moss, with a small amount of 
 good loam mixed through it and slightly wet mix- 
 ture. Sprinkle with Indian meal or chopped white 
 egg for food of worms. 
 
 HELGRAMITE. 
 
 These excellent crawlers can be kept in a wooden 
 box, with tight fitting cover. Sprinkle with water and 
 give them plenty of rotten wood and weeds to feed on. 
 
 FROGS. 
 
 Keep frogs in a perforated wooden box, with a 
 little grass kept slightly moistened. 
 
 52 
 
GRUBS AND MAGGOTS. 
 
 An excellent bait for trout can be kept in a small 
 box. Feed with corn meal. 
 
 Grasshoppers and crickets can be kept for days in 
 a tin box with little or no attention. 
 
 KNOTS FOR FISHERMEN. 
 
 To the average fisherman the art of making the 
 proper knot in his tackle at the proper time is practical- 
 ly unknown, and no wonder, for his outfit is generally 
 "ready to wear" from the time it leaves the counters 
 of the sporting goods dealer. However, the time of- 
 ten comes when the fisherman wishes to repair his 
 broken leader, and we therefore publish the following 
 description of a few simple but useful knots, with 
 plate showing manner of tieing of same, knowing that 
 they will be of service to many of our readers. 
 
 Taking the knots commonly in use amongst sea- 
 men, we present herewith several modifications that 
 anglers will find of service. Nps. i to 9, (except 6 and 
 7,) are not altered, and may be seen in "Dana's Sea- 
 manship." Nos. ID and ii are reproduced, because 
 they are liable to draw — that is, if the ends are cut off 
 close. No. 7 is useful when trying to put up a lead- 
 er that is unsoftened and liable to crack if the usual 
 knots are used. The end of this should not be cut 
 off very close, but any of the others, Nos. i to 9, may 
 have end cut off quite short without the least danger 
 of their drawing. For metal eyes large enough to 
 admit double gut, No. i is the best, although Nos. 3, 
 4, 4a and 5 may be used. They are readily undone if 
 required. For metal eyes too small to allow of gut 
 being passed more than once. No. 2 cannot be beaten. 
 It is also excellent for very small sizes, such as are used 
 for dry flies, and can be readily tied in hair, or with 
 gut that is only partially softened. Gut should in- 
 variably be well softened before knotting. For gut 
 
 53 
 
I. Double Eye Knot 
 
 6. Double Sheet Bend 
 
 3. Safety Figure of 8 
 
 9. Dropper Knots. To be tied between 
 two l(nots, as No. 8 or other similar 
 cast knot 
 
 5. Safety Liik 
 
 54 
 
loops of salmon and other flies Nos. 3, 4, 4a and 5 are 
 most useful and safe, and are readily undone if a 
 change of fly is desired. 
 
 For attaching hook to gut cast or leader. — Nos. 4 
 and 5 are perfect (No. 4a being suited for a hook with 
 small metal eye). No. 6 is the very thing for night 
 fishing, or when it may be expected to fall dark before 
 the cast is dismounted from line. It is the most easily 
 undone of any knot known, and will never jam, as the 
 single sheet bend does. 
 
 For joining up gut lengths into leaders. — Those 
 best suited are very generally known. For salmon 
 leaders the best is the buffer knot tied in with silk. 
 Only one is given, No. 8. This is a peculiar knot, in- 
 asmuch that there are four thicknesses of gut on 
 which to tie the dropper, after tying which the ends 
 may be cut off tolerably close. This is perhaps a 
 tedious knot to make, but it need only be put in for 
 the droppers. 
 
 For attaching droppers. — No. 9 shows three meth- 
 ods of attachment, either of which are very neat when 
 pulled very tight; they are perfectly secure. They 
 need to be tied over double or more strands of gut; 
 the ends are first passed in between, and put on be- 
 twixt two knots. 
 
 The knots shown may not hold any better than 
 an unmethodical jumble of warps and bends, but they 
 look better and are more businesslike, and will be 
 found considerably easier to untie. 
 
 55 
 
FIGHTING "THE BUGS" AND FLIES. 
 
 There are dopes galore, most of them good in 
 some cases, but none of them effective in all cases. 
 The best of them contain oil of citron ella, oil of penny- 
 royal and tar as a base. Prepared 'dopes," liquid or 
 paste form, are on sale at every sporting goods house 
 in the country. Now there has been placed on the 
 market a powder in a can that is akin to a talcum 
 which is very effective in the case of mosquitos. 
 
 Perhaps the two dopes best known and most 
 generally used are made from the following recipes 
 and we give due credit to the two sportsmen who 
 formulated them. 
 
 Nessmuk's Dope, from "Woodcraft:" 
 Pine tar, 3 oz. 
 Castor oil, 2 oz. 
 
 Oil of pennyroyal, i oz. 
 
 Simmer all together over a slow fire and bottle. 
 The abo'"^ quantity is enough for four persons for 
 a fortnig . 
 
 H. 1 . Wells's Bug-Juice, from "American Sal- 
 mon Fisherman :" 
 
 Olive oil, Yi pint. 
 
 Creosote, i oz. 
 
 Pennyroyal, i oz. 
 Camphor, i oz. 
 
 Dissolve camphor in alcohol and mix. For four 
 persons. 
 
 An application of the dope to every exposed part 
 of the body is essential. Be sure and rub it in well 
 and don't be finicky about personal appearance; let 
 it stay on and each additional coat of the dope will 
 be all the more effective. 
 
 Camphor is a good repeller of crawling insects. 
 This can be bought in solid cakes, which are con- 
 venient to carry and easily crumbled and scattered 
 over your duffle. 
 
 66 
 
Pasteur's "Eucamphol" is a splendid thing to 
 have, as its use on the affected spot will immediately 
 relieve much of the sting and pain of an insect bite. 
 Next to that in efficiency is olive oil containing 5 
 per cent, carbolic acid. A strong solution of ammonia 
 is also effective. 
 
 A good head net can be purchased at sporting 
 goods stores. A convenient form is made with hoops 
 and with shot around the bottom hem, which keeps 
 the net close to the clothing and will not allow of 
 insects crawling upon the clothing. Another form, 
 when worn with a wide brim hat which keeps the 
 net from the face, ties under the shoulders and is 
 also a fine article to have. These fold into very small 
 packages and are much in demand on this account. 
 
 Some old-timers buy sufficient black veiling to 
 reach from the head to the waist, have it wide enough 
 to reach around the body, with apertures for the 
 arms and keep it in place with the belt, a very effec- 
 tive but clumsy method to keep flies away. 
 
 For the hands, gloves well dressed with oil of 
 pennyroyal are worn by many fishermen. Sew a 
 piece of light cloth to the gloves — gauntlet fashion — 
 long enough to reach above the elbows and with 
 elastic at the top. This holds close to the arm, stays 
 in place and keeps out flies and insects. 
 
 If tenting, a piece of mosquito netting to fit tent 
 flap is needed. Make this with a broad hem, so that 
 gussets may be placed every few inches and the net- 
 ting can be easily attached and detached. 
 
 Some sportsmen take along a sufficiently large 
 piece of netting to hang over cot by means of ropes 
 from ridge pole of tent, or stakes put at head and foot. 
 There is also a mosquito bar that will fit the cot. 
 This, however, although not bulky, adds a little to 
 the duffle and is not deemed necessary where the 
 trip is a hard one with many carries, and where every 
 ounce of additional weight is a hardship. 
 
 57 
 
COOKING FISH IN CAMP. 
 
 The first step to remember is to always remove 
 the skin of any fish taken from a warm stream or 
 pond or caught from a muddy bottom. With but 
 few other exceptions, however, the skin should be 
 left on as it retains the juice of the fish. 
 
 Cooking Trout — Trout may be cooked appetizing- 
 ly in several ways. One way is to dress and split your 
 trout or bass, and having seasoned it well, place it 
 on a board or shingle of clean wood fastened by two 
 wooden pins; then support the board before a smart 
 fire until browned; it is not necessary to turn the 
 fish. Another way to bake fish is to cover it, un- 
 drawn, with a layer of clay two inches thick and 
 place it in a very hot fire ; the clay hardens at once 
 and the trout thus cooked retains all its juices and the 
 skin comes away with it, leaving the flesh most 
 delicately cooked and palatable. 
 
 A third way to cook trout is to split them open, 
 clean, and hang on crotched sticks about i6 inches 
 long. On top of the fish place a slice of bacon or 
 salt pork and stick them as near the camp fire as 
 possible, turning once in a while. The fish soon are 
 baked to a turn, leaving the skin firm and the flesh 
 comes away from the skin, like a peel from a banana. 
 
 To Boil Fish — Always use salted water and do 
 not put the fish in the water until it has come to a 
 boil. Seven minutes to a pound of fish is enough. The 
 flesh will be hard and firm when cooked in this way. 
 
 Frying Bass — Before frying most fishermen re- 
 move the skin of bass. Put plenty of bacon or salt 
 pork in the spider and you will have one of the finest 
 dishes you ever tasted when bass is done to a turn. 
 Always remember to keep bass in heavily salted water 
 over one night before cooking. It makes a wonder- 
 ful improvement. 
 
 58 
 
Fish Balls — Are made by shredding the fish into 
 small bits. With the proportion of one pint of cooked 
 fish to one quart of mashed potatoes, add a table- 
 spoonful of butter and season with salt and pepper. 
 Beat the mixture well with a fork, then form the mix- 
 ture into balls, flattened, and fry in hot fat deep 
 enough to cover. 
 
 Fish Chowder — After cleaning fish, parboil, re- 
 serving the water in which you parboil the fish. 
 Place a lump of butter in a hot dry pot, and add five 
 or six onions sliced fine. When the odor of onions 
 arises add the fish, some sliced potatoes and enough 
 of the water in which the fish was parboiled to more 
 than cover the mixture. Cook enough to cook the po- 
 tatoes and before serving add a few crackers. Season 
 to suit. 
 
 CAMP COOKING GENERAL RECIPES 
 
 Tea: — One-half teaspoonful of tea to each cup of 
 water, and for good measure one extra spoonful for 
 the pot. 
 
 Pour the water into the pot, a cupful at a time. 
 Water should be freshly boiled. Put the pot near to 
 fire, but not near enough to cause the tea to boil, and 
 allow it to steep for id minutes. 
 
 Coffee: — Two teaspoonfuls of ground coffee to 
 each cup of water. Add two extra spoonfuls for the 
 pot. Pour the necessary boiling water on coffee and 
 set pot on fire to boil. Grounds will of course come 
 to top at first. Let coffee boil long enough for grounds 
 on top to turn over. Settle grounds with one-fourth 
 cup of cold water. 
 
 BOILING POTATOES. 
 Wash them, cut off each end, put them in a pot of 
 59 
 
cold water, with a teaspoonful of salt for every quart, 
 cover them with a lid and let the water merely cover 
 them; place them over a good fire and boil so fast 
 that the water tumbles, until you can stick a dining- 
 fork easily through them; then pour all the water oif 
 and take the lid off, placing the pot on some embers 
 beside the fire. Do not leave the least water in the 
 pot, or it will steam them and prevent them from dry- 
 ing mealy. 
 
 ROASTING POTATOES. 
 
 Wash and cut off the ends of the potatoes (es- 
 pecially the seed-end) and, when dry, draw the coals 
 of the fire forward and place the potatoes on tlie em- 
 bers, cover them with hot ashes, then with embers, 
 topping off with coals, and after they have been roast- 
 ing half an hour, try them. 
 
 SCRAMBLED EGGS. 
 
 Beat six eggs enough to mix white and yolk to- 
 gether; put two ounces of butter in a pan set on the 
 fire, and when melted, take off the pan and add salt, 
 pepper, and, if you like, a pinch of nutmeg ; mix it in, 
 then add the eggs, with a tablespoonful of gravy or 
 essence of beef ; put the pan again over a slow fire, stir 
 constantly till cooked to suit and serve warm. 
 
 TO FRY SALT PORK. 
 
 Cut it in thin slices and put it in a fry-pan covered 
 with hot water; let it boil up once and then pour it 
 off; shake a little pepper over it; let it fry on both 
 sides in its own fat, then take out the pieces and add 
 to the gravy a large teaspoon of flour ; stir it till smooth 
 and free of lumps; then add a cup of milk; stir over 
 the fire a few minutes ; shake more pepper over it ; then 
 pour it over the pork and serve; or thin-sliced boiled 
 potatoes, or fried or boiled cold parsnips may be fried 
 in the gravy when the pork is taken out. 
 
 60 
 
CORN MEAL FRITTERS. 
 
 Beat three eggs until light ; then mix them with 
 a pint of milk, a teaspoon of salt and enough yellow 
 meal to make a thin batter; have lard, beef drippings, 
 or pork in a fry-pan boiling hot, and then put in the 
 batter with a large spoon and fry each side brown; 
 when done, put them in some dish where the fat on 
 them can drip off. 
 
 FRIED POTATOES. 
 
 Peel and cut raw potatoes, thick or thin ; let them 
 lie in salt water as long as convenient; have your fat 
 very hot; put in your potatoes, and as soon as brown 
 remove them with a skimmer into some perforated 
 dish, or on a cloth where the fat can drip from them 
 and leave them dry and crisp. The fat must be as hot 
 as possible. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Let them simmer rather than boil. Put cold 
 water in the pot and let it heat gradually; only un- 
 cover the pot to skim the soup. A teaspoonful of salt 
 and a quart of water to each pound of beef is a fair 
 average. Remove every particle of scum before you 
 put in the vegetables. If soup is too thick, always 
 thin it with boiling water. Never put in green vege- 
 tables till the water boils. Hard or fast boiling makes 
 meat tough and hard. Put your herbs in when nearly 
 done. All soups require simmering from four to five 
 hours. 
 
 BOILING MEATS. 
 
 Hard or fast boiling makes all meat dry, tough 
 and hard. Corned beef should, after being cooked, be 
 left in the liquid till it is perfectly cold, or it will be 
 dry. Fifteen minutes to each pound of ham is a fair 
 average. Hams and meat should be put in pot, but 
 
 61 
 
not boiling water; cold water draws out the juices. 
 Beef tongues of a fair size require full three hours' 
 boiling. 
 
 BROILING STEAKS. 
 
 Put the steak on the gridiron for a few moments 
 and scorch both sides ; then take it ofif, and when per- 
 fectly cold proceed to broil it to your taste ; this mode 
 preserves the juices of the meat. 
 
 HOW TO BUILD CAMP FIRES 
 
 The art of building fires for cooking purposes is 
 one that perplexes the average sportsman. Take two 
 good sized green logs and level the top sides so that 
 a fry pan will sit on each one perfectly flat. Place the 
 logs just far enough apart at one end so that the cook- 
 ing utensils will rest on them without any danger of 
 slipping off, and at the other end increase the dis- 
 tance between them so that there will be room 
 enough for the Dutch oven. Aften getting them in 
 the right position secure them by stakes. 
 
 A trench about six inches deep should be scraped 
 from between the logs and a windbreak should be 
 made of green logs on one side. 
 
 A camp fire is easily started with a little birch 
 bark as a kindler, or if this is not handy, take a dry 
 stick, shave it so that the shavings will stay on at one 
 end. Fire is easily communicated to these shavings. 
 Pine knots form/ admirable kindlings, and so do dead 
 branches and twigs plucked from the trees. 
 
 In wet weather a quick fire can be made by build- 
 ing it under the trunk of a fallen tree, the bark on the 
 under side of the tree furnishing enough dry fuel to 
 start the fire with. 
 
 For a cooking fire use split hard wood or hickory 
 
 62 
 
which makes fine coals for cooking. To make a fire 
 for lasting throughout the night, use large pieces of 
 green, hard wood and you will find that the fire has 
 served you throughout the night and will give you a 
 fine bed of coals with which to cook the morning's 
 meal. 
 
 A smudge is easily made by starting a fire with 
 birch bark, and after it is fairly going, covering with 
 damp leaves, moss or green leaves. Dead punky 
 wood also makes an excellent smudge, and a smudge 
 made of fungus from trees is excellent as an insect re- 
 pellent. 
 
 An ideal camp fire is made when you can locate 
 your camp or tent to face a large rock with flat sides. 
 Build the fire against the rock and the heat will be 
 thrown in your leanto or tent and keep you warm 
 without your being uncomfortably near the blaze. 
 
 A hot fire and one that is especially adapted for 
 cooking is made by using dry bark. The lasting fires 
 are made of hard wood. Soft wood is never used by 
 the experienced sportsman except in cases of emer- 
 gency. 
 
 Before leaving camp be sure that the fire is en- 
 tirely out. This is one of the cardinal rules of sports- 
 manship. Either extinguish the fire with water, or 
 else dig a hole in the earth and rake all the coals into 
 it and cover carefully with earth. Sand and earth will 
 quickly extinguish a fire when placed on top of the 
 coals, but be sure that the coals are entirely covered 
 with a sufficient quantity of dirt, before leaving the 
 fire. 
 
 HIS WIFE AN ANGLER. 
 
 "1 am exceptionally well pleased with my 'Bristol' 
 Steel Rod. Have used it for two years. My wife 
 also has one that she has used for two or three years. 
 Neither of us would change to any other fishing rod." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Rutland, Vt., February 25th, 1910. 
 
 63 
 
CHOOSING THE FISH LINE. 
 
 The best fly line is the silk enamel line of size E 
 (except where the rod weighs less than 4j^ oz. when 
 size F is recommended), this being heavy enough to 
 enable the fisherman to cast into the wind and also 
 has enough weight to enable the user to get a good dis- 
 tance in casting. The line you buy should be a good 
 one — it will repay you. It should be tested for 
 strength, smoothness of the enamel and flexibilit:y. 
 Be sure that the coils of the line are not stuck to- 
 gether, for this shows that the enamel is not firm 
 enough. 
 
 If you are not familiar with good lines it is a 
 safe rule to get some old established brand which 
 bears the name of the maker such as "Kingfisher" lines. 
 These lines have a reputation to sustain and they are 
 to be trusted. 
 
 Expert anglers are taking more and more to the 
 tapered lines which can be used on still waters and 
 those streams with a slow running current, and gives 
 the user the advantage of allowing the fly to settle 
 lightly and naturally on the water, an art all fisher- 
 men strive to attain. 
 
 Some anglers prefer an oil silk line, which al- 
 though possessing all the required strength is a bit 
 cheaper than the high grade enamel line, is not as 
 smooth and flexible as the enamel and not as easy to 
 cast. 
 
 For bait casting, a line that combines strength 
 and smoothness is required. Get a light one unless 
 your rod is heavy. Size 5 is standard. There are 
 many lines of national reputation especially made for 
 bait casting, so you cannot easily make a mistake 
 here. The best bait casting lines are made of fin- 
 ished silk, (the best that money can buy) and are 
 able to stand hard usage. It must be braided hard 
 and close, although the tournament caster prefers, 
 for his longer distance work, a softer braided article 
 than the fisherman wants. 
 
 64 
 
Trolling requires a smooth, waterproofed silk 
 line of good strength i8 to 23 pounds, braided so 
 that it will not stretch too much and one that will 
 stand a lot of rough work. 
 
 For salt water fishing the line most widely used 
 is a twisted linen, which comes in all sizes and all 
 strengths. Expert casters, however, generally use a 
 braided silk line with a linen center on account of 
 smoother casting. Salt water will not hurt silk line 
 if rinsed in fresh water and dried in the usual way 
 in the shade. 
 
 POINTS ON CHOOSING HOOKS 
 
 Don't buy hooks because they are cheap. Get 
 the best ones possible, the highest grade hollow point 
 hooks and those that your dealer can recommend and 
 stand back of. There will be only a few cents dif- 
 ference per dozen between the cost of the cheap ones 
 and the best ones, and you will be glad you spent the 
 additional pennies when you are way back in the 
 woods and cannot procure extra hooks. 
 
 For trout the Sproat bend is the most popular 
 hook, and for worm fishing No. 4 to No. 6 the popular 
 sizes. Many anglers prefer the Carlisle hook for 
 worm fishing, as the longer shank permits of better 
 stringing of the worm. However the Carlisle hook 
 is not as strong as the Sproat, and for this reason the 
 latter is preferable. Single snelled hooks are general- 
 ly used, although many who think they know where 
 the big 'uns lie call for a double snelled. 
 
 For bass fishing, use a sneck or sproat, i-o to 
 5-0, single snelled hook. While double snells are 
 good for small mouthed bass they are no better and 
 no stronger as the gut cannot be tied to pull evenly. 
 For big mouthed bass, size i-o to 3-0 "sneck" is favor- 
 ite in the west. Pickerel fishermen have a fancy for 
 
the longer shanked Carlisle hook, i-o to 4-0, with 
 double snells, or gimp or phosphor bronze wire snells. 
 This Carlisle hook has a long shank and there is not 
 much danger of the fish cutting the snells. 
 
 Lake trout trolling demands a hook with a broad 
 curve, on which a minnow can be easily strung. The 
 short, heavy shanked Aberdeen, size 2-0 to 4-0, double 
 gutted hook is the best one for this fishing. 
 
 Another hook much used for trolling is the Cin- 
 cinnati Bass Hook, a heavy shanked hook, sizes 18 
 to 21 being the most popular ones. 
 
 ONLY AN AMATEUR. 
 
 "I am only an 'amateur,' but have landed black 
 bass weighing five and three quarter pounds on one of 
 your 8^-foot 'Bristol' rods. 
 
 "About the middle of March, I expect to purchase 
 one of your short casting rods with large guide holes, 
 as I make the trip each year into the Kiamichi Moun- 
 tains, of this state, about the ist of April, and as the 
 mountain streams are rough and have considerable 
 brush, I need a short casting rod." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Snyder, Okla., February 5th, 1910. 
 
 JUST ENOUGH SPRING. 
 
 "The 'Bristol' Rod is just the thing for trout-fish- 
 ing, ■ of which I am a devoted follower, because, 
 though it is ten feet long, it has just enough spring in 
 it to make a good throw, and not too much. 
 
 "I always recommend the 'Bristol' Rod to any 
 prospective rod buyer, because then I am sure he or 
 she will enjoy fishing much more." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Milwaukee, Wis., March 7th, 1910. 
 
 66 
 
POINTS ON SELECTING REELS. 
 
 Fly Casting Reels — The selection of a suitable 
 trout reel will take some time and trouble, for the rod 
 must be tested with various reels in order to get the 
 right balance. A single action click reel with a capa- 
 city to hold 35 yards, size E "Kingfisher," enamel line 
 is necessary, for while the cast of the average fisher- 
 man will not often be more than 60 feet, it is well to 
 have the extra 15 yards of line to meet such emergen- 
 cies as breakage, large fish and other unexpected inci- 
 dents that are bound to happen. 
 
 A reel with handle attached to revolving side or 
 protected by an overhanging rim is necessary; the 
 balanced handle reel causes much bother as the line: 
 is continually getting caught underneath the handle 
 at the critical moment, and many a trout is lost while 
 the fisherman is straightening out the tangle. A 
 handle that tapers towards the end is the ideal one, 
 for if the line does happen to catch in it, it will general- 
 ly slide off of its own accord. 
 
 Generally speaking, the oxidized and black rub- 
 ber reel is the better, for it casts no bright reflec- 
 tions to frighten the fish. 
 
 Salmon reels are generally single action with ca- 
 pacity of at least 100 yards, size D. "Kingfisher" 
 enamel line and built on the lines of the ideal trout 
 reel, of course greatly enlarged and consequently 
 strengthened. 
 
 Trolling Reels — ^The ideal reel for trolling is a 
 multiplying one of the so-called 100 yards capacity, 
 which holds 90 yards of the size 4, silk trolling line. A 
 good sized handle with a balance weight to give lever- 
 age is essential, and the reel is equipped with drag and 
 click. 
 
 Bait Casting Reels — In these days of popular 
 fancy for bait casting, there are many beautifully 
 
 67 
 
made reels for this ideal sport which cost from $5 to 
 $50. Bait casting demands a quadruple reel, one that 
 will take in 4 circles of line on the spool for every revo- 
 lution of the handle. The reel must be of the con- 
 struction so that the spool will run with the least fric- 
 tion on the bearings, and this calls for workmanship 
 of the highest order, which accounts in a way, for the 
 high price of the reel. 
 
 A high-priced reel for bait casting is the cheapest 
 one to purchase. As to its weight, some say that a 
 heavy spool with a well balanced handle, will run 
 more easily, playing out the line in the best manner, 
 as it is not so easily stopped by the "thumbing" which 
 is necessary in bait casting. On the other hand, some 
 experts say to always use a light spool and handle 
 for casting — claiming it to be far superior. 
 
 There has recently been placed on the market a 
 reel, which some bait casters are using with success. 
 It has an automatic "thumber;" and with this, that 
 bane of most bait casters, the development of "thumb- 
 ing science" is overcome. 
 
 A CLEVER BASS. 
 
 "I have used one of your 'Bristol' steel rods for 
 6 years and yet it was as good as new. I let a friend 
 borrow it last summer, and a big bass carried it away, 
 and therefore I had to buy another. I know by ex- 
 perience that your rods are all you claim them to be 
 and more." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Watersmat, Mich., February 5th, 1910. 
 
 68 
 
POINTS ON SELECTING SPOONS 
 BASS SPOONS. 
 The best and most popular spoon for bass fishing 
 is without doubt the fluted spoon, size No. 4. This is 
 iJ/2 inches long, mounted on a brass shaft, equipped 
 with swivel on one end and feathered treble hook at 
 the other. Other popular trolling baits for bass are 
 the black bass bait equipped with fluted propeller, the 
 nickel spinner with nickel balance wheel, which makes 
 it spin very easily, the single and double propeller 
 bait, the improved pearl trolling bait with kidney 
 shaped pearl spoon and the metal bait. The ordinary 
 spoon is the combination of two finishes, either nickel 
 on back and brass, copper or gold on the inside of 
 spoon. 
 
 PICKEREL SPOONS. 
 
 Favorite pickerel spoon is the skittering spoon. 
 The most popular size is a No. 3. Other good picker- 
 el spoons are the single and double free spinners, the 
 pearl emeric spinner, which is mounted with a treble 
 hook, swivel and short phosphor bronze snell, the 
 casting spinner with size No. 3 spoon and equipped 
 with two single hooks is also a good one for pickerel. 
 
 For trolling the Archer spinner is without doubt 
 the standard bait. This is equipped with three treble 
 hooks and long needle with which the minnow can be 
 securely fastened and held by the lips and fins, and in 
 trolling this makes the revolution of the bait an easy 
 matter. 
 
 TROUT SPOONS. 
 
 A small sized spoon, mounted on a brass shaft 
 with swivel at one end and single fly hook at the 
 other is the favorite bait. Some fishermen prefer 
 double spoon on this attachment. The spoon on 
 this bait is elliptical in shape but there are many varia- 
 tions from a kidney shaped spoon down to a long 
 needle shaped spoon such as is used on the Walton 
 trout spinner. 
 
 69 
 
SALMON SPOONS. 
 
 Salmon spoons are from 2^ inches in length up 
 to 2H inches. These are usually mounted with a 
 single hook on a treble swivel and used with baits such 
 as minnows. The pearl spoons, which have come into 
 so much popularity within the last two years, are much 
 used in salmon fishing. 
 
 MUSCALLONGE SPOONS. 
 
 Are usually mounted with extra wire spring at- 
 tached to the swivel and are very strong. These are 
 from 2 11-16 inches in size up to 3^^ inches and are 
 usually in the shape of an elongated oval, which shape 
 causes it to revolve close to the shaft. The Delevan 
 bait spoon is especially constructed for live minnows 
 and frogs and also can be used for pork rind which 
 makes it a good one for pickerel fishing. 
 
 We have tried in this short article to give the 
 names of the most popular spoons used and sold by 
 tackle dealers, but there are numerous other ones 
 which can be purchased at fishing tackle stores and 
 which all serve their purpose. 
 
 A LIGHT LURE CASTER. 
 
 "It gives me no little pleasure to say I have used 
 'Bristols' for the past nine years. I own three of your 
 rods. 
 
 "I am a light lure caster of no little reputation 
 around here. I cast fiy (with spinner), without any 
 weight, from reel and fish all day, and never wet more 
 than five feet of my line. 
 
 "I always have a good word to say about the 
 'Bristol' to my friends. I shall ever be willing to do 
 anything to boost your splendid rods." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Americus, Ga., September 20th, 1910. 
 
 70 
 
POINTS ON SELECTING RODS 
 
 BROOK TROUT RODS. 
 
 If you are going into a thickly wooded country 
 take the Bristol No. 5, No. 6 or No. 7 rods. These are 
 all telescopic rods, with the line running through the 
 centre. Your line is always protected from twigs and 
 branches and the rod is easily telescoped and enables 
 one to move through the brush quickly and without 
 danger of breaking the tackle. 
 
 For fly fishing the popular Bristol rods are the 
 No. 8 and No. 16, but if you desire something which 
 is better, make your choice of No. 9, which is 91^ feet 
 in length or No. 14 which is 8 feet, 7 inches in length. 
 Many anglers use the trout rod No. 24, which has iy% 
 inch joints and when set together makes a rod 9 feet 
 in length. This rod is popular with traveling men, be- 
 cause it can be carried in the valise 
 
 BASS AND PICKEREL RODS. 
 
 Fishing from the shore, the No. 4 bait rod, 10 feet 
 long is the best one made by the Bristol Company. 
 The ideal boat rod is either the No. 11 or No. 13, but 
 without doubt the No. 11 has the call for being the 
 all round bait and boat rod. This is Sj/^ feet in length, 
 weighs 10 ounces and there are more of these sold than 
 any other rod made by the Horton Manufacturing 
 Company. 
 
 Shorter bait rods are No. 15, called the Expert 
 rod which is 6i/^ feet in length, the Western Bait 
 casting rod, 6 feet in length and still shorter than these 
 are the No. 19 and No. 20, which are 51^^ and 5 feet 
 respectively. Anglers desiring extra fine bait rod, 
 mounted with agate first guide and agate tip, should 
 purchase No. 12, but right here, let it be understood by 
 the readers of this book that any of the Bristol rods 
 can be mounted with special trimmings on short no- 
 tice and with but little extra expense, and you can 
 easily get a rod practically made to order by giving 
 
 71 
 
your dealer a little time so that he can get it from the 
 factory. 
 
 BAIT CASTING RODS. 
 
 For bait casting No. 25 Kalamazoo bait casting 
 rod, with its short cork handle, patent detachable fin- 
 ger hook and large German silver casting guides and 
 solid agate tip, is an ideal rod. The reel seat is so 
 arranged that your casting reel is brought close to the 
 handle, which position with the aid of the finger hook, 
 enables the fisherman to thumb the reel without tiring 
 his hand. This rod can be purchased at any time in 
 5, ^Yz and 6 foot lengths, but if the angler desires other 
 lengths, they can be had if reasonable time is given 
 the factory to make it. A still better bait casting rod is 
 the No. 27, which is equipped with solid agate guides 
 and top throughout. These guides are mounted high 
 and have large openings so that they offer free run- 
 ning qualities. The handle is a long one, being 14 
 inches in length, and has double cork grips and pa- 
 tent detachable finger hook. 
 
 One of the good points of the Bristol rod is that 
 the angler can have the choice of any three handles, — 
 polished maple, celluloid or cork. The cork handle 
 has the preference because it does not sweat the hand 
 and the angler can always have a secure grip on the 
 rod. 
 
 FOR BASS, LARGE MOUTHED. 
 
 Bristol Rod No. Ii or No. 13 for trolling or bait 
 fishing is the best all round rod. Strong raw "King- 
 fisher" silk line. Multiplying reel. 
 
 Fly fishing requires either No. 8 or No. 16 Bristol 
 rod. Good enamel "Kingfisher" line, size E or F. 
 Size i-o to No. 3 fly hook, 9 foot string leader with 
 loops. Single action reel. 
 
 72 
 
FOR BASS, SMALL MOUTHED. 
 
 Same bait and fly rod and reels as for large mouth- 
 ed bass. Flies, size No. i to No. 4, 6 foot looped lead- 
 ers. 
 
 Favorite flies, Colonel Fuller, Parmachenee Belle, 
 Silver Doctor, White Miller, Ibis, Lord Baltimore, 
 Grey Hackle, Professor. 
 
 Bait Casting: No. 25 or No. 27, Bristol Rod, good 
 quadruple casting reel. No. 5 Kingfisher casting line, 
 hard braided silk. Wooden minnows or spoons for 
 lures. 
 
 GRAYLING RODS. 
 
 No. 14 or No. 16 Bristol Rod, enamel Kingfisher 
 line, size F, light 6 foot leader, single action click reel. 
 Flies size No. 8. Favorite patterns, Oak, Quaker, 
 Brown Hackle, Montreal, Professor, Queen of the 
 Waters, Alder, March Brown, Stone and Cahill. 
 
 MUSCALLONGE RODS. 
 
 Bristol Rod No. 21 or No. 22, large multiplying 
 reel, strong hard braided "Kingfisher" silk line, double 
 gut or twisted leader, large sized spoons. No. 5 to No. 
 8 for trolling. 
 
 Bait casting. No. 25 or No. 27 Rod, multiplying 
 reel, fine braided "Kingfisher" silk casting line, single 
 salmon leader, size 2-0 Sproat or snell hook and frog 
 bait or small fish. 
 
 PERCH RODS. 
 
 Both Fly and Bait tackle used. For fly fishing 
 use same tackle as for brook trout and brilliant flies 
 like Ibis, Parmachenee Belle. Bait fishing requires 
 a short rod. No. 13 or No. 15 Bristol rods being good 
 ones. Baits used are worms, minnows and grubs. 
 Will also take small spinners and spoons. 
 
 73 
 
PICKEREL RODS. 
 
 Seldom caught with flies. Number 4 Bristol rod 
 best for shore or boat fishing with skittering spoon. 
 Size No. 3 spoon most popular one. 
 
 Bait fishing No. 13 or No. 15 Bristol Rod, multi- 
 plying reel, short treble twisted leader, frog, pork or 
 minnow bait. 
 
 Bait casting, No. 25 or No. 27 Bristol Casting rod, 
 good casting reel, brilliant colored wooden minnow, 
 pork rind, spoon bait, frogs and minnows. No. 3-0 
 Carlisle hook. 
 
 PIKE RODS. 
 
 Use same tackle as for muscallonge. 
 
 PIKE PERCH. (WALL EYED PIKE.) 
 
 A bait fish. No. 11 Bristol Rod, i-o phosphor 
 bronze snelled Cincinnati Bass Hook, pork rind or 
 minnow for bait. 
 
 Fly fishing, No. 16 Bristol rod, "Kingfisher" 
 enamel line, brilliant flies, size No. i-o or No. i. 
 
 TOGUE RODS. 
 
 Caught on trolling tackle. No. 11 or N0.13 Bristol 
 rod, good hard braided silk line, 41/^ foot trolling lead 
 equipped with swivels, Archer spinners or No. 2-0 to 
 4-0 double snelled Aberdeen hooks, rigged with min- 
 nows. 
 
 At times, togue will rise to flies, whence a good 
 fly fishing outfit such as used in bass fishing should be 
 employed. 
 
 BROOK TROUT RODS. 
 
 Any of the Bristol fly rods, numbers 8, 9, 14 or 
 16 are good ones, and the Telescopic fly rods, num- 
 bers 5 and 6, are especially favored by sportsmen who 
 fish in thickly wooded sections where it is often neces- 
 
 74 
 
sary to take rod apart when movihg from spot to spot 
 in order to get through the woods. Six foot leader 
 with loops necessary, 25 yards of size F, "Kingfisher" 
 enamel line on a small click single action reel. Spring 
 fishing flies from No. 6 to No. 14 are used; but in 
 ponds larger hooks from No. 4 to No. 6. 
 
 The best pattern flies are : 
 
 Silver Doctor, Parmachenee Belle, Brown and 
 Grey Hackles, Montreal, Coachman, Professor, Cahill, 
 Stone. 
 
 LAKE TROUT RODS. 
 
 Good trolling rod is necessary, No. 11, No. 13 or 
 No. 15 Bristol rods being good ones. Multiplying reel 
 of 100 yards capacity. "Kingfisher" hard braided silk 
 trolling line No. 4 size and live minnows for bait, 
 hooked on Archer spinners. 
 
 As the lake trout is usually in deep water, many 
 sportsmen are now using the braided metal line, which 
 will sink deep enough without the use of extra leads. 
 In the early summer young lake trout are often caught 
 with artificial flies, using the same tackle as is used 
 in brook fishing, 
 
 LANDLOCKED SALMON RODS. 
 
 Caught in the early spring by trolling. No. 11 
 Bristol, equipped with double handle and locking reel 
 band, good multiplying reel, "Kingfisher" hard braid- 
 ed silk line of good strength. Archer Spinner and 
 smelt with a 4^4 foot twisted gut leader equipped with 
 swivels, is the ideal equipment for early fishing. Later 
 on in fly fishing No. 9 Bristol rod with 50 yards size 
 E "Kingfisher" enamel line on a good multiplying or 
 single action reel and a 9 foot leader is necessary. 
 
 The flies mentioned in the Atlantic Salmon Fish- 
 ing are good ones, although for the Landlocked Fish- 
 
 75 
 
ing they should be in sizes 4 to 8. In June, the small- 
 er Dry Flies are used extensively — of course with a 
 lighter tackle. 
 
 ATLANTIC SALMON RODS. 
 
 Number 8 Bristol rod equipped with either the 
 double grip handle or long grip handle, and be sure to' 
 have the locking reel band on the handles ; good sal- 
 mon click reel sufficiently large to hold 100 yards of 
 size "D" "Kingfisher" enamel line, 9 foot salmon lead- 
 er. 
 
 The eight popular flies in their order are: 
 Silver Doctor, Jock Scott, Silver Grey, Dusty 
 Miller, Popham, Butcher, Fiery Brown, Durham 
 Fancy. 
 
 SALT WATER FISHING RODS 
 
 ALBACORE RODS. 
 
 The Pacific coast fish which furnishes lots of 
 sport. A good stout bait rod such as No. 21 or No. 22 
 Bristol rod is needed. Multiplying reel, Cuttyhunk 
 line and any of the popular Pacific trolls are used in 
 this fishing. 
 
 BLACK FISH OR SEA BASS RODS. 
 
 An ideal outfit would be a Bristol casting rod, 
 No. 25 or No. 27, good Cuttyhunk linen line, stout 
 single leader, equipped with a swivel sinker and a No. 
 2 Cincinnati bass double gut or phosphor bronze 
 snelled hook. Clams make the best bait and a good 
 multiplying reel is necessary, as this fish furnishes 
 some good sport. 
 
 FOR STRIPED BASS RODS. 
 
 Bristol casting rods. No. 25 and No. 27. Eighty 
 or 100 yards multiplying reel, 3 foot leader and Car- 
 
 76 
 
lisle hooks or phosphor bronze snell, baited with clam, 
 sand worm, blood worm or shrimp. A small linen 
 line, or a "Kingfisher" raw silk line is necessary. 
 
 SMALL BLUE FISH OR SNAPPER RODS. 
 
 "Kingfisher" enamel line, on a multiplying reel, 
 used on a lo foot, No. 8 Bristol rod and No. 4 hooks, 
 baited with worms or small minnows. Furnishes 
 popular sport for many sportsmen along the Atlantic 
 coast. 
 
 SQUETEAGUE WEAKFISH RODS. 
 
 One of the finest salt water game fish and one that 
 furnishes a great deal of sport for fishermen on the 
 Atlantic coast. For ocean fishing, trolling rod, either 
 the Bristol No. 26 or Bristol No. 22 is necessary. A 
 good multiplying reel of 100 yards capacity, good linen 
 line, and use artificial trolls. The one manufactured 
 of pearl is the best one. 
 
 This fish can also be caught by surf fishing. Use 
 bait casting Bristol rod No. 25 or No. 27, with a hook 
 baited with crab or shrimp. 
 
 TARPON RODS. 
 
 For tarpon fishing, Bristol rod No. 26 is the ideal 
 one. It has strerigth and durability and extra long 
 handle with two grips and the rod is mounted with 
 special agate guides. The rod is specially prepared 
 for use in salt water. Other tackle needed would be 
 a well made tarpon reel, which, by the way, is the 
 largest one manufactured, and an extra fine quality 
 linen line. Specially constructed tarpon hook can be 
 purchased of any dealer in tarpon tackle, and the favor- 
 ite bait is mullett. This fish is a very game one and 
 of great size. Great care should be taken in the selec- 
 tion of tackle. 
 
 77 
 
CARE OF FISHING TACKLE 
 
 If you have a good reel, give it a little attention. 
 This does not mean to tinker with it or take it apart 
 and play with it, but dry it when you stop fishing. 
 It is almost as fine a piece of mechanism as a watch, 
 and should be cleaned, oiled and kept in a suitable 
 case when not in use. 
 
 A drop of fine watch oil or "3 in i" is all that is 
 necessary in the bearings and in the "click" and 
 "drag" joints to keep it operating smoothly and to 
 prevent rust. The reel itself can be easily cleaned 
 with the use of a little elbow grease, a clean cloth, 
 benzine and a brush. Don't get oil on the line. 
 
 CARE OF LEADERS. 
 
 Leaders should be carefully packed in a round 
 cast box which comes provided with two circular 
 pieces of felt. The felt should be soaked in water so 
 as to soften the gut and make it more pliable and 
 less liable to crack when put in use. Leaders should 
 be carefully examined before the fishing trip and all 
 those that show any sign of cracking or wear be 
 shortened to eliminate the weak portion. If this is 
 impossible, discard altogether. 
 
 COLORING TROUT LEADERS. 
 
 Anglers often times do not prefer the gut as the 
 dealer has it for sale and the man behind the counter 
 loses a sale through his inability to suggest the 
 proper means of coloring it. The most popular, the 
 coffee color, can be obtained in the following man- 
 ner: Boil the gut in a decoction of red onions. This 
 will equal the best uncolored gut in transparency 
 and otherwise from the point of the eye of the ris- 
 ing fish. 
 
 CARE OF LINES. 
 Silk lines should never be allowed to remain for 
 any length of time on the reel when wet. Fish lines 
 
 78 
 
should be dried immediately after using, for silk is 
 apt to rot quickly. There are several good line 
 drying devices on the market, but if you haven't one 
 of these, hang your line in coils over the back of a 
 chair or better still, hang it from a wooden peg in the 
 wall, which allows longer coils and better drying fa- 
 cilities. 
 
 Enamel lines should be dressed down after the 
 season's fishing by either rubbing them with a piece 
 of flannel saturated with deer fat, or with a com- 
 bination of graphite and tallow, which, although not 
 so clean to handle, is as effective, and more readily 
 procured. 
 
 CARE OF STEEL RODS. 
 
 Don't neglect your rod, not even for over night. 
 Take it apart after the day's fishing and dry it 
 thoroughly. If the ferrules are too tight, a drop of 
 oil will remedy the trouble, or if oil is not handy, rub 
 the offending ferrule on your nose or hair, which 
 process will supply the necessary lubricant. 
 
 If the ferrules are corroded a bit so they stick, a 
 piece of fine emery cloth and a few minutes' labor 
 will remedy this trouble. Do not be too liberal with 
 the use of the emery, as the ferrule may be made too 
 small and then its "The de'il to pay" — if not a new 
 joint. 
 
 CARE OF FLIES. 
 
 The ideal way to keep your stock of flies when 
 not in use is in long envelopes with a celluloid front — 
 packed away in the tackle box. Celluoid is a moth 
 preventive. Be sure that the snells are properly 
 straightened and in good order. If not, the replacing 
 of imperfect snells will give you a tinge of the fish- 
 ing fever during the long winter evenings. Scatter 
 a little powdered camphor among the flies and all 
 the advances moths might make toward them will be 
 repelled. 
 
 79 
 
CARE OF HOOKS. 
 
 Hooks should be carefully wiped with an oiled 
 cloth to prevent rust. A small file is a handy thing 
 to have in your kit for sharpening hooks. Any small 
 file with a fine cut will do, such as the 3 inch Ward- 
 ing Bastard. 
 
 CARE OF SPOONS. 
 
 Take care of the spoons. Clean them of the 
 tarnish and dirt with some metal cledner, or better 
 still, wood ashes. See that the hooks are free from 
 rust and the feathers protected from the moths. 
 
 CARE OF CREELS. 
 
 Never let a creel remain dirty. Wash it thorough- 
 ly, for on the next trip you may want to place your 
 lunch in it when starting out in the morning. Good 
 hot water and plenty of soap will do the trick, but 
 be sure that it is thoroughly rinsed after this treat- 
 ment and dried quickly. A piece of paper or leaves 
 in the bottom and up the sides will often keep the 
 creel comparatively sweet and clean, so that it will 
 not need such heroic cleaning, 
 
 LISTEN TO THIS. 
 
 "I have selected and purchased one of your steel 
 rods, and after giving it a trial, decided that it has got 
 the split bamboo rods beaten to a sliver. I only regret 
 that I did not purchase one 3 or 4 years ago, but I 
 thought a rod made of steel would be as 'stifif as a 
 fence post,' but my thoughts have been all shattered 
 after one trial. 
 
 "Wishing you the best of sucess." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Frankfort, N. Y., May 27th, 1910. 
 
 80 
 
THE LAST WORD. 
 
 "Directly behind me on the wall hang three of 
 your nickel-plated agate-tipped rods, one of which I 
 have used on large fish for eight years, taking in one 
 season 226 bass weighing up to 61^ pounds, and to 
 my mind is the only rod for really hard work. I have 
 had the old rod nickeled but once in that time, and I 
 attribute its longevity to a liberal application of 3-in- 
 one oil. On my recommendation two friends have 
 bought them and they both speak highly of them. 
 The -fly rod and the bait caster with large rings are 
 the last word in rod construction. 
 
 "A person who has done fishing all day with a 
 split bamboo in a drenching rain knows only too well 
 that the rod gets stiff and refuses to have the supple- 
 ness that it has in fine weather, and it is these people 
 who are getting on to the fact that the steel rod gives 
 them no worry on that score. As for the alleged sun 
 reflection scaring the fish, I say it is not, for I have 
 demonstrated time and time again on a trout brook 
 that it is not so, catching more than fellow fishermen 
 while using your black enameled rods. These are plain 
 facts, . and you may use this in any way you see fit, 
 and should you care to refer anyone to me you may 
 do so, and I will say to them what I am writing to you. 
 
 "Anything new you may have in the shape of a 
 catalogue or calendar, will be highly appreciated. 
 
 "Thanking you in advance." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 West Somerset, Mass, January 23d. 
 
 THE WAY WE ALL FEEL. 
 
 "I would thank you to mail me one of your latest 
 catalogs. I am using nothing else but the 'Bristol' 
 rod. The best is good enough for me." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Cleveland, Ohio, April 5th, 1910. 
 
 81 
 
BOAT PRECAUTIONS. 
 
 It is a wise stunt for any fisherman to carry with 
 him in the boat at all times an inflated pneumatic 
 cushion. Accidents will happen even among the pro- 
 fessionals and an air cushion has often stood between 
 a man and death by drowning. If you do upset, 
 remember that very seldom does a boat go to the bot- 
 tom. It may fill or turn over, but it still will have 
 sufficient bouyancy to keep your nose above water — 
 and you are safe as lofig as you can hang on. 
 
 To know how to load a boat so that it can be 
 rowed to the best advantage with the minimum of 
 effort, especially in a "rough sea," is important and 
 useful. The weight, whether camp equipment or 
 human cargo, should be so distributed that the 
 heavier end of the load is toward the stern, which 
 should ride a few inches lower than the bow. The 
 amateur who acts contrary to this suggestion will 
 find it very difficult to keep his boat in a straight 
 course and will waste much time in getting nowhere. 
 The art of rowing a boat is a very simple one and 
 easily learned, though really mastered by very few. 
 If you learn incorrectly, it is very difficult to over- 
 come your old habit of rowing incorrectly. 
 
 Take an even rhythmic stroke; dip both oars 
 into the water at the same time and also leave the 
 water simultaneously. Do not knock your knuckles 
 together as you row. 
 
 The common mistake in rowing is to immerse 
 the blades too deeply under the surface. You should 
 not do this for several reasons. In the first place 
 you cannot propel your boat as far each stroke when 
 the oar blades are deep under water as you can whon 
 the blades are merely just covered. In the second 
 place, if the waves are running you do not have your 
 boat under the same control when your blades are 
 deep under as when they are near the surface and 
 instantly removable. 
 
 82 
 
An additional impetus may be given to the boat 
 at each stroke if the oars, at the end of the stroke, 
 are turned in the hands so that the under edge of 
 the blade, just before it leaves the water, is "flipped" 
 toward the stern. This requires merely a wrist 
 movement, but means several pounds of extra "pull" 
 at each stroke. 
 
 A fisherman can row all day in a boat Without 
 fatigue, while another man who covers the same dis- 
 tance in a similar boat is "all in" when evening comes. 
 To pull a boat along at trolling speed it is not neces- 
 sary to bend the hinge of the back. You can do it 
 entirely by the movement of the arms. 
 
 The first lesson to be learned by the amateur 
 is that when he steps into a boat he must always 
 set his foot down along the line of the keel. Fail- 
 ure to observe this rule has resulted in a sudden bap- 
 tism of many a careless beginner in the fishing game. 
 
 Some men say they cannot cast a fly or cast a 
 bait unless they stand up in the boat, while others 
 make it a hard and fast rule never to stand while 
 casting. The latter seem able to place a fly or bait 
 as far away from the boat as the former. Not only 
 that, but they seem to get just as many fish. It is 
 all according to how you learn. 
 
 But if you think you can do better casting by 
 standing up in a boat it behooves you to never for- 
 get the fact that you are "standing up in a boat" 
 and govern yourself accordingly. You owe this much 
 not only to yourself and your relatives, but also to 
 your comrade, or to the guide who happens to be in 
 the boat with you. 
 
 In this connection the man at the oars, if you 
 happen to be standing up, also owes it to you to be 
 careful in his movements. A good sharp pull on his 
 part, may send you tumbling head over heels, over 
 the stern, or a push backward on the oars may pile 
 you up on top of him. 
 
 83 
 
HANDLING A BOAT IN A STORM. 
 
 Fresh water lakes are treacherous. To speak 
 with greater accuracy, the winds which disturb the 
 surface of fresh water lakes are always factors which 
 the fisherman cannot safely reckon on. 
 
 As to salt water, the wind may blow hard, but 
 as a rule it blows steadily and in one direction. When 
 it shifts it does so gradually, and the boatman has 
 time to govern himself accordingly. Hence rules 
 with reference to wind that may be safely counted 
 on in salt water boating are violated every hour of 
 the day on fresh water. 
 
 This is more particularly true where lakes are 
 surrounded by mountains, through the sags of which 
 the wind sucks down and strikes the surface with 
 savage violence. Thus a wind which high aloft is 
 blowing steadily and directly may, by reason of 
 numerous valleys leading to the lake, strike the sur- 
 face at a variety of angles and appear to be blow- 
 ing from many different directions at once — hence 
 we call it "gusty," "squally," "fickle" and "tricky." 
 
 On fresh water the wind rises quickly and often 
 subsides as suddenly. Many a fisherman has been 
 lured to mid-lake because the water was as quiet as 
 a mill pond only to have a blow suddenly descend 
 upon him that lashed the surface to white caps in a 
 few minutes and gave him a strenuous time reach- 
 ing shore ! For these reasons a sail boat on fresh 
 water becomes a dangerous craft to fish from and it 
 frequently happens that an angler's knowledge of 
 sail boating, no matter how expert it may be, will 
 not suffice to save him from disaster. 
 
 Suppose you are caught napping — suppose the 
 wind comes up quickly and the big feather edged 
 waves begin to run — suppose this happens to you 
 
 S4 
 
away out on the broad expanse of the lake — what are 
 you going to do to get safely ashore? 
 
 First, figure out quickly whether you can "buck" 
 wind and waves with safety, without exhausting your- 
 self too much. If not, then it is a useless waste of 
 energy, which you should save for a more worthy 
 emergency presently. 
 
 If, to reach the nearest shore, you must row in 
 the trough of the waves with your boat broadside 
 to them, don't do it, or your craft may fill and swamp. 
 
 You may be able to pull quartering into the 
 wind and reach shore, but if the waves are big and 
 feather-edged, even this will be heart-breaking work. 
 
 The safest way is to follow the line of least re- 
 sistance, no matter where your objective port may be. 
 Better be several hours late in reaching camp or 
 even stay out all night, than to risk your life. 
 
 Always keep your boat ends in a line with the 
 direction of the wind. If you have been rowing into 
 the wind and it blows so stiff you decide for safety 
 to retreat, don't turn your boat end for end and thus 
 risk giving a big roller a chance to swamp you. Sit 
 tight and let the boat drift backward, keeping it in 
 its course by means of the oars in the locks, or by 
 using one oar as a steering blade at the stern. 
 
 If you can safely turn the boat between waves, 
 or when the smaller ones are passing under (about 
 every sixth or seventh wave will be the big one) 
 then you can scoot with the wind or even quarter 
 sharply until you are in a friendly cove or in the lee 
 of a point. 
 
 If you break an oar or lose one in the blow, use 
 the remaining oar as a steering paddle in the stern 
 and drift with the wind to shore or until the blow 
 abates. 
 
 If you lose your courage through fear or ex- 
 haustion, take in both oars, stow them snugly away, 
 
 85 
 
then lie down lengthwise in the bottom of the boat, 
 on your back, midway between the ends and let your 
 craft ride the waves, until it drifts ashore. A small 
 boat with the weight close to the keel will ride safely 
 even in rough water. As your boat goes ashore with 
 the force of wind behind it, jump out and ease it in, 
 even if you get wet feet. Otherwise a wave may 
 stave it on the rocks. 
 
 On fresh water lakes a blow generally gives you 
 warning of its approach. Sound travels so much 
 faster than wind that you can often hear it coming a 
 mile or more away through the trees and make a 
 snug harbor before it catches you. 
 
 Lastly, keep your head and your wits about you 
 in a blow and you will then be equipped to meet the 
 wind with the very best weapon you possess. 
 
 CUT OUT THE CANE AND ROPE. 
 
 "I have used one of your No. ii rods for the past 
 5 years, and as far as I can see it is as good as when I 
 got it. 
 
 "A bunch of fellows here are getting interested in 
 rods. We haven't had any fishing here for several 
 years, but two others and myself have been getting 
 bass, pike and perch from the government and plant- 
 ing them, and while we all have 'Bristols,' we are try- 
 ing to get the rest of the fishermen here to cut out 
 the cane and rope outfit and go after them right. 
 
 "One of our bunch is going East in February, and 
 we all expect to have him bring back rods — and they 
 will be 'Bristols.' I want a Kalamazoo Bait Caster 
 myself." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Madison, S. D., January 24th, 1910. 
 
 "FROM MISSOURI." 
 
 "I have had a 'Bristol' fishing rod for about three 
 years, and like it fine. Another fellow and myself got 
 
 86 
 
in a dispute over fishing rods the other day. I saw 
 your ad in Field and Stream, and am sending for the 
 catalogue to show him the difference." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Vineland, N. J., January 20th, 1910. 
 
 87 
 
WHAT TO DO WHEN LOST. 
 
 "What to do when lost" is not easily decided 
 by a few empirical rules deduced from the individual 
 experience of a few lost men, probably themselves of 
 slight experience as woodsmen or explorers; but it 
 is rather a question which is answered by the whole 
 knowledge of woodcraft which the lost one has at 
 his command. 
 
 To the inexperienced, getting lost may be a 
 tragedy; to the old woodsman or plainsman it is 
 likely to be merely an incident and not one produc- 
 tive of much discomfort. The necessary coolness 
 under strange conditions and the ability to make 
 one's self comfortable when thrown suddenly and un- 
 preparedly on his own resources are not apt to be 
 found at the tyro's command, but he has some of the 
 knowledge which the situation calls for. The first 
 thing, the most important thing; often the vital thing 
 to do is, "Keep cool, sit down, and think." 
 
 The sportsman wants to know how to tell the 
 points of compass without the instrument. I have 
 seen a good deal about telling north from south by 
 the moss on trees, by the thickness of their bark, etc., 
 on their different sides, and I have no doubt there 
 is something in all the theories hinted at; but to ex- 
 pect a lost man to so decide direction is pure folly. 
 The man who is really lost is usually in a very dis- 
 tressing condition of mind. All his mental faculties 
 are confused and his perceptions seem to him un- 
 reliable. To put to him at such a moment any new 
 questions as to the preponderating abundance of bark, 
 moss or foliage on one side or the other of the sur- 
 rounding trees is to give him more confusing ques- 
 tions to decide with a mind already muddled and 
 probably fighting with panic. 
 
 The sensation of getting turned around is very 
 disagreeable, but it cannot be helped, and the con- 
 fusion will pass if one waits for it to do so. But 
 
 88 
 
■panic can be helped and must be. "That way mad- 
 ness lies," and exhaustion and death may not be far 
 away. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of 
 cure. 
 
 The sensible thing is always to carry a compass, 
 but not every man carrying one knows where he is, 
 and if he doesn't know in what direction from camp he 
 is the compass may not prevent his getting lost. 
 
 The safe man is the one who takes constant 
 notice of mountains, rivers, landmarks, and who 
 carries a metal map of his route with a line ever 
 swinging across it, an imaginary and more or less 
 perfectly straight line drawn from him to his camp 
 or other base. This is easy for some and hard for 
 others; but the remedy is; "take notice." 
 
 When I have seen a man in a strange country 
 occasionally turn around and look at the objects and 
 changing outlines behind him, I have thought he 
 was more likely to know where he was going and 
 how to get back than the one who apparently never 
 thought of the district behind him. 
 
 DISTRESS SIGNALS 
 
 The usual distress signal is made by firing a 
 shot, waiting thirty seconds and then firing two sliots 
 in quick succession. If you have no gun, make two 
 smudges about fifty feet apart that will send up two 
 columns of smoke. Whenever these are seen it is 
 generally understood among sportsmen that the build- 
 er of them needs assistance. 
 
 89 
 
"FIRST AID" SUGGESTIONS. 
 
 Give injured person plenty of fresh air, and loosen 
 collar and tight clothing. 
 
 FAINTING. 
 
 Loosen all tight clothing and give plenty of air. 
 Bathe face and hands with cold water. 
 BURNS AND SCALDS. 
 
 Apply oil of some kind, Carron oil is especially 
 effective, and cover with absorbent dressing to ex- 
 clude the air. Starch or flour may be dusted on the 
 burned parts; afterwards dress with Burn Ointment. 
 Immediate treatment is most important. 
 
 If the clothing is on fire: Roll the person in a 
 rug or heavy overcoat until the flames are ex- 
 tinguished. 
 
 FROST BITES. 
 
 Apply snow to the frozen parts, or give a cold 
 bath. Afterwards rub with alcohol or whiskey. 
 
 BLEEDING. 
 
 Raise the wounded limb or part and compress the 
 wound with absorbent dressing or cotton. If the 
 blood is dark red and flows without spurting, a vein 
 has been severed; apply a tight bandage below the 
 wound or on the side furthest from the heart. 
 
 When there are regular spurts of bright red 
 blood, an artery has been severed and then there is 
 great danger. If possible, get a doctor immediately, 
 and in the meantime fill the wound with absorbent 
 dressing or lint. Press on the wound with the thumb 
 and finger, and raise the limb. If the bleeding contin- 
 ues, tie a rope or handkerchief around the limb above 
 the wound (on side nearest the heart) and twist tight- 
 ly by means of a short stick. When the bleeding has 
 been arrested, cover with antiseptic dressing and 
 bandage. 
 
 90 
 
NOSE BLEED. 
 
 Place plugs of lint or cotton in nostrils and ap- 
 ply cold water to forehead. Have the head thrown 
 back with arms folded. 
 
 BROKEN BONES. 
 
 Do not move the patient until the broken limb is 
 in splints. Any strong stick, broom handle, cane, 
 umbrella or yard stick may be improvised for tempor- 
 ary relief. Place splints, one on each side of the 
 limb, and bandage. 
 
 If the bones protrude, causing a compound frac- 
 ture, dress the wound and arrest the bleeding, then 
 place the limb in splints, using plenty of padding. 
 Make the patient comfortable and handle the limb 
 with great care. 
 
 Fracture of Upper Arm. With broad bandage 
 tie arm to side. 
 
 Fracture of Lower Arm. Place in splints and 
 sling. 
 
 Fracture of Ribs. Bandage around body until 
 surgeon arrives. 
 
 Fracture of Collar Bone. Lay patient flat on 
 back and support elbow and upper arm until a sur- 
 geon arrives. 
 
 DROWNING. 
 
 Turn the patient on his back after removing the 
 upper garments. Support the shoulders, allowing the 
 head to fall back. Thrust long needle through the 
 tongue, and draw the tongue forward between the 
 teeth ; the needle being in such a position as will 
 keep the tongue out. 
 
 Try artificial respiration. Take hold of the arms 
 below the elbows draw them out, then up to the head ; 
 then bring the arms down along the sides in front of 
 
 91 
 
the chest and press inward on the chest firmly. Con- 
 tinue these movements incessantly about 15 times 
 each minute. Don't give up. Lives have been saved 
 after hours of exertion. When breathing is restored, 
 vsrrap up warm and give stimulants in very small 
 doses. 
 
 DYSPEPSIA. 
 
 Soda mint tablets or essence of peppermint in 
 small doses. 
 
 EXHAUSTION. 
 
 Twenty drops of aromatic spirits of ammonia in 
 a little water. 
 
 FITS. 
 
 Put one arm under patient's head and with the 
 other loosen collar. Let the patient bite on any hard 
 substance enclosed in a handkerchief. Do not give 
 anything to drink, and do not restrain his movements. 
 
 WOUNDS. 
 
 If the wound is caused by a clean instrument 
 and is slight, draw the edges together and apply strips 
 of adhesive plaster. 
 
 Do not touch a wound with the fingers, but pick 
 out dirt and foreign substances with clean forceps, 
 and squeeze soap suds made with antiseptic soap, 
 allowing it to drip over the wound. Bandage over 
 antiseptic dressing. 
 
 Do not probe for bullets or attempt to remove 
 fish hooks deeply imbedded. Bandage and send for 
 a doctor. 
 
 Do not leave a wound exposed and do not re- 
 move blood clots. Stop bleeding as soon as possible 
 by pressure on the vein or artery. 
 
 92 
 
BRUISES. 
 
 Bathe with warm water and arnica. 
 
 OAK POISONING. 
 
 The following is an old remedy used by hunters 
 in case of poison oak on hands or face: Apply strong 
 ammonia frequently, just as soon as you teel an 
 itching on the skin. The ammonia is sometimes se- 
 vere, but it usually kills the virus. If this remedy 
 should fail, powdered gum myrrh, shaken up in sweet 
 oil and used four or five times daily, is an almost un- 
 failing remedy. If the poisoning is not a severe case 
 an application of hot water will suffice. 
 
 DISLOCATIONS. 
 
 In case of dislocation, the best thing to do is to 
 get to a surgeon at the earliest possible moment. 
 Prepare the patient and ease the pain by surrounding 
 the displaced joint with soft pads to support it and 
 bathe it with cloths wet with hot water. 
 
 A minor dislocation of a finger and toe can be 
 reduced by pulling the member strongly, and at the 
 same time bending the tip of the finger back. 
 
 "A PEACH," "A DANDY," "THE NICEST." 
 
 "Rods received all right. Please accept my sin- 
 cere thanks and also further thanks for putting on the 
 outside guides. To my fancy this is a great improve- 
 ment. When I took rod home my eldest son said it 
 was a "'peach.' George said it was a 'dandy,' and my 
 wife said, 'My, that is the nicest rod you ever had; 
 you must let me use it.' 
 
 "I think I have the nicest rod in our city today. 
 Now I am looking forward to the open season. Only 
 2i/^ months from next Saturday. 
 
 "Again many thanks." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Ottawa, Ont., February i6th, 191a 
 
 93 
 
FISH AND CAMP PHOTOGRAPHING. 
 
 There is nothing that brings more disappointment 
 than the failure of films to make good when developed, 
 which you use so extravagantly on your trip to the 
 woods. Of course the first thought of the average per- 
 son is to put the blame on the camera, but not one 
 per cent, of the failure is due to this cause. The opera- 
 tor is generally to blame and the fault generally lies in 
 his not being familiar with the delicate mechanism of 
 the machine. 
 
 The average book on photography is too techni- 
 cal. The average man has neither the disposition nor 
 the time to study them, so a few points on the proper 
 manipulation of the camera will perhaps help some 
 sportsmen in the way of getting good pictures, which 
 will bring to mind fond recollections of the many de- 
 lights of a past trip. 
 
 The whole theory of taking good pictures lies in 
 getting the following rule firmly in your mind. The 
 nearer the camera is to the object to be photographed, 
 the more light required. The farther away it is, the 
 less light, and you must set the stop on your camera 
 accordingly. Every camera user should know that 
 when the stop is at figure "4" he is getting as much 
 light as possible. This stop should only be used when 
 portraits are taken and the object is within a very 
 short distance of the machine. For all round general 
 work stop "16" is the one to set the pointer at and in 
 nine cases out of ten, pictures will prove successful. 
 Stop "32" is used when you wish to take scenery, such 
 as pictures of a lake, taken from the shore, views of 
 fields and roads. 
 
 On very bright days and when taking pictures on 
 the water be sure to set stop "64." This stop is also 
 the right one to use when taking views such as moun- 
 tains, clouds, etc. 
 
 The reason why so many photos of camp scenes 
 are failures is that the photographer seldom allows 
 
 94 
 
for the shade of the trees and consequently does not 
 give enough light and exposure. If the amateur will 
 bear the matter of sufificient light in mind, leave his 
 camera set for snapshots, he will find that he will get 
 photos that will prove good ones. 
 
 Many times a photo will, by necessity, have to be 
 taken with the camera pointing right into the sun, 
 which as everyone knows is against one of the first 
 rules of the art. However, if such is the case, good 
 photos can be taken by shading the lens with the hand 
 or hat, so as to prevent the sun's rays from striking 
 directly on it. 
 
 Most cameras have a scale on the bed with set of 
 figures, which will denote the proper point at which 
 to set the lens. For instance, if you wish to take a 
 picture of an object 15 feet away, you will move the 
 small pointer until it rests over the figure "15." This 
 will indicate that the lens has been brought to the 
 proper distance from the focal plane. By use of the 
 finding glass, you will see exactly, although on a 
 smaller scale, the object which you are to take a pic- 
 ture of. 
 
 Always be sure to hold your camera level and also 
 steady, and then make your picture. 
 
 Photographers should remember that the nearer 
 the object to be photographed is to the camera, the 
 more rapid the shutter must be worked, and to set 
 the shutter scale accordingly. 
 
 In taking photos of your day's catch, be sure to 
 have a good background. For instance, a very hand- 
 some picture can be made by arranging your landing 
 net and rod attractively on a broad rock and placing 
 the fish on moss, or ferns, or leaves. 
 
 Experts tell us that it is a mistake in placing the 
 main object of interest in the centre of the picture. 
 The main object should be slight to one side, so that 
 the lines of the photo will converge towards it. 
 
 95 
 
ETIQUETTE AMONG FISHERMEN 
 
 There are certain unwritten laws of courtesy 
 which prevail among fishermen. The amateur who 
 doesn't know them, or the angler who disregards 
 them, will soon become unpopular with his fellows. 
 
 It is bad etiquette for an angler in a boat to cross 
 another fisherman's trolling line, or to even follow 
 a boat close enough to be over or in the immediate 
 vicinity of a trolling bait. 
 
 It is bad etiquette to pass another boat so close 
 that the oars almost touch. 
 
 It is bad etiquette fly casting on stream or lake 
 to trespass on the surface close to another caster, or 
 to cut in ahead of him on brook or shore line in order 
 to find unwhipped water. 
 
 It is bad etiquette in plug or still fishing to anchor 
 your boat close to another boat merely because it 
 is having luck and you are not. 
 
 It is bad etiquette to treat a brother angler, even 
 though you never saw him before, in any other than 
 a courteous and gentlemanly manner. 
 
 96 
 
rUU. IXNDTH. 
 
 GLOaEO, 
 
 No. 1, 2, 3 and 10 TELESCOPIC BAIT RODS 
 
 Handle mountings nickel, with solid reel seat above the hand; 
 hne runs through the center of the rod. 
 
 In the Telescopic Rod, with the line running through the 
 center, originated the steel rod business, and from it was 
 developed the regular jointed "Bristol" with the line guides 
 on the outside. 
 
 These telescopic rods are at their best when used along 
 streams that are lined with brush, and are especially popular 
 in the Rocky Mountains where this condition prevails. 
 
 The telescopic rods possess unusual strength and back- 
 bone, and are, in the longer patterns, remarkably flexible and 
 resilient. 
 
 No. 1. Rod, 9 feet 6 inches in length. Weight, 1154 
 ounces. When telescoped the rod is 32 inches in length, all 
 enclosed within the butt length. 
 
 No. 2. Rod, 10 feet in length. Weight, 10 ounces. When 
 telescoped the rod is 37 inches in length. 
 
 No. 3. Rod, 10 feet in length. Weight, 10^ ounv.^3. 
 When telescoped the rod is 37 inches in length, same as No. 
 2 except that each joint is banded at smaller end. 
 
 No. 10. Rod, 8 feet 6 inches in length. Weight, 11 
 ounces. When telescoped the rod is 29 inches in length, all 
 enclosed within the butt length. A serviceable rod for heavy 
 fishing. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 Nos. 1, 2 and 10 — With polished maple handle $3.50 
 
 No. 3 — With polished maple handle 4.00 
 
 Nos. 1, 2 and 10 — With celluloid wound handle 4.00 
 
 No. 3 — With celluloid wound handle 4.50 
 
 We can furnish the No. 2 and 3 rods 12 feet in length for 
 50 cents extra. 
 
 "The Best in the World." 
 "I use a Bristol rod and I say that it is the best rod in 
 the world. I carried it to New Brunswick last year and hope 
 to again this year. I will always boom a 'Bristol' to every 
 one I see who wants to own a good rod." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Lowell, Mass., February 15, 1910. 
 
 97 
 
CLOSED. 
 
 Nos. 5, 6 and 7 TELESCOPIC FLY RODS 
 
 Handle mountings nickel, with solid reel seat below the hand; 
 line runs through the center of the rod. 
 
 No. 5. Rod, 9 feet 6 inches in length. Weight, llM 
 ounces. When telescoped the rod is 32 inches in length, all 
 enclosed within the butt length. 
 
 No. 6. Rod, 10 feet in length. Weight, 10 ounces. 
 When telescoped the rod is 37 inches in length. 
 
 No. 7. Rod, 10 feet in length. Weight, 10 ounces. 
 When telescoped the rod is 37 inches in length, same as No. 
 6, except that each joint is banded at smaller end. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 Nos. 5 and 6 — With polished maple handle $3.50 
 
 No. 7 — With polished maple handle 4.00 
 
 Nos. 5 and 6 — With celluloid wound handle 4.00 
 
 No. 7 — With celluloid wound handle 4.50 
 
 We can furnish the No. 6 rod 13 feet in length for 50 
 cents extra. 
 
 Salt and Fresh Water. 
 
 "I have used 'Bristol' Steel Rods for both salt and fresh 
 Boater fishing during the past ten years, and can testify to 
 their worth, having good occasion the past Spring to see my 
 'Bristol' stand up under a hard gruelling where another make 
 went to pieces during a Salmon fishing trip to Sebago Lake. 
 There are four fisbermen in my family — Robert, age nine; 
 
 Fred, age twelve, and Mrs. , also yours truly, all using 
 
 'Bristol' Rods. Assured success is yours." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Providence, R. I., Jan. 27th, 1910. 
 
 Four Anglers, Six "Bristols." 
 
 "The writer and three friends have a camp house on 
 some lakes adjacent, and have six 'Bristol' Rods in our equip- 
 ment and cannot get along without them. I wish the calen- 
 dar to put in the camp house." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Waco, Texas, February 2, 1910. 
 
 98 
 
■ I 11 ly Hj » I 
 
 ClBBillliiilMi 
 
 Nos. 4, 11, 13, 15, 18, 19 and 20 JOINTED BAIT RODS 
 
 Handle mountings nickel, with solid reel seat above the hand, 
 
 trimmed with two-ring German silver tie guides and 
 
 German silver three-ring tip. 
 
 The No. 11 "Henshall" 8^4 feet long, weight 10^ ounces, 
 Bass Rod is admittedly the best all-around fishing rod made. 
 Though designed primarily for a bass rod, and for this pur- 
 pose unusually effective, it is extensively used all over the 
 country for almost every kind of fishing, from perch to 
 muscallonge. Many of the No. 11 rods have been in constant 
 use over twenty years, and anyone desiring a general service 
 outfit could not make a better selection than this reliable 
 model. 
 
 The No. 4, 10 feet long, weight 10^ ounces, or the No. 
 13, 7^ feet long, weight 9 ounces, will give practically the 
 same service should the angler wish a rod either a little 
 longer or a little shorter than the No. 11. 
 
 The Nos. 15, 18, 19 and 20 rods, ranging in length from 
 six and one-half feet to five feet, weight about 8 ounces, are 
 designed for boat fishing with bait. They were also exten- 
 sively used for bait casting until the advent of the regulation 
 bait-casting rod with large guides, and are still popular with 
 those anglers who prefer a bait-casting rod with small guides. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With polished maple handle $4-50 
 
 With celluloid wound handle 5.00 
 
 With cork grip handle 5.50 
 
 Five Years' Service. 
 
 "S'ome five years since, I purchased a 'Bristol' rod with 
 an agate guide on first joint and a solid agate tip, joints 28 
 inch. This seems to fit your No. 13 rod, excepting the agates. 
 It has given every satisfaction, both with blue and weak fish 
 oflF the sea side, and with bass at Lake Simcoe, Ont., and is 
 still in perfect condition for hard service. It has been taken 
 good care of. I am going to try it in the Kawartha Lakes 
 this coming August." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Washington, D. C, Feb. 7, 1910. 
 
 99 
 
JOINTED BAIT ROD NO. 12 
 
 Bass rod, 8 feet 6 inches in length; the joints are 32 
 inches long. Weight, 10 ounces. Handle mountings nickel, 
 with solid reel seat above the hand. This rod is nickel plated, 
 has an agate guide on first joint (first guide above the reel), 
 and a solid agate tip. 
 
 The No. 12 rod is designed to meet a certain demand for 
 a rod on the lines of our No. 11, but nickel plated and fitted 
 with agate first guide and agate top. It is a handsome rod 
 and popular with anglers who prefer some other finish than 
 the regulation black enamel. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With celluloid wound handle $7.50 
 
 With cork grip handle 8.00 
 
 S3 lb., 28 lb. and 35 lb. Lake Trout. 
 
 "I thought that perhaps you would be interested in a 
 couple of photos which you will find enclosed. The three 
 large fish on the bent pole, weighing respectively 33, 28 anH 
 35 pounds, were taken from Lake Minnewanka (Devil's 
 Lake), eight miles from Banff, Alia., Canada, on an 8^ ounce 
 'Bristol' fly rod. They are a species of lake trout and re- 
 semble closely the land locked salmon. The 35 pounder was 
 taken by myself and it took one hour and fifty-eight minutes 
 of strenuous fighting to accomplish the feat. The other two 
 were caught by Mr. Frank J. Hawkins, with the same rod and 
 tackle, while I manipulated the boat. The three fish held by 
 the two gentlemen in the other photo weigh respectively lyi, 
 9 and 18J4 pounds. They were taken a week later than the 
 other three from the same lake. The 7J4 and 18}4 pound 
 fish were caught by Mr. B. Fay. He used a short 'Bristol' 
 bait rod. The 9 pound fish was killed by my wife, from the 
 same boat, she used my 85^ ounce 'Bristol' fly rod. These 
 fish were all taken on a Phantom minnow, which is, however, 
 a poor bait for the lake, only occasionally will they take it. 
 Yes, I swear by the 'Bristol.' and why shouldn't I?" 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Hosmer, B. C, Feb. 23, 1910. 
 
 100 
 

 JOINTED BAIT ROD NO. 17 
 
 Bait Rod, 7 feet in length; the joints are 26 inches long. 
 Weight, 8^ ounces. Handle mountings nickel, with solid 
 reel seat above the hand. This rod has German silver trum- 
 pet guides and solid German silver double hole tip. 
 
 The No. 17 is a favorite rod for still fishing from a boat. 
 The trumpet guides and double hole tip make the freest 
 running combination next to the agate. This rod has a wide 
 sale for perch and bass fishing. 
 
 Prices, each 
 
 With polished maple handle $5.50 
 
 With celluloid wound handle 6.00 
 
 With cork grip handle 6.50 
 
 Perfect Control Over Fish. 
 
 "On Easter I ran over to a little bass pool and in about 
 twenty minutes I landed one weighing 1^ pounds, another 
 weighing J4 pound, and my friend three, too small to k«ep. 
 RIGHT THERE I FELL IN LOVE WITH THE 'BRIS- 
 OL.' I was using one borrowed from a friend and the life 
 and perfect control it gave me over that game little savage 
 decreed that I must have one. It is with pleasure that I 
 write this and I assure that I shall do all in my power to 
 place in the hands of all victims of the Fishing Bug the best 
 rod a fisherman ever held." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Danville, Va., April 6, 1910. 
 
 Used for 12 Years. 
 
 "When the fishing season opens I may get the notion 
 of having another. I have been using the 'Bristol' Rods for 
 twelve years or more and do not think I would have any 
 other. I have taken out fish weighing as much as 8^ pounds 
 and have my first rod to break. I have five rods running 
 from 4yi to 8 feet long. But prefer for most fishing the 
 shorter rods." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Indianapolis, Feb. 9, 1910. 
 
 101 
 
" V" ' 
 
 JOINTED BAIT ROD NO. 25 
 
 No. 25 Bait Casting Rod has short cork handle, with 
 -patent detachable finger hook, large polished German silver 
 improved casting guides, and solid agate top, with extra large 
 opening. The reel seat is so arranged that reel is brought 
 close to grip, which, with the aid of the finger hook, enables 
 the fisherman to "thumb" the reel without tiring his hand. 
 The free running qualities of the large guides and top are 
 such that a novice can cast from 75 to 100 feet after a few 
 trials. We have this rod in three lengths — 5 feet, 5J^ feet, 
 and 6 feet. Other lengths to order. Weight, 8 to syi ounces. 
 
 This rod is the first model made in a steel rod strictly 
 for bait-casting, and is practically on the lines of the original 
 except that the up-to-date improved casting guide is now 
 used instead of the old style large so-called Kalamazoo two 
 ring guide. The No. 35 is unsurpassed by any other rod for 
 bait casting, except possibly the No. 27 and No. 33 rods, both 
 of which were evolved from this rod. 
 
 Prices, each 
 With cork grip handle only $7.00 
 
 Ten Years' Use. 
 
 "I have used one of your No. 17 rods for the last 10 or 
 13 years and have found it very satisfactory, but I thought 
 there might be something else of your make to complete the 
 outfit. Before the season opens I will probably supply myself 
 with some of the extra parts listed." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 St. Paul, Minn., Feb. 5, 1910. 
 
 Seen Service 20 Years. 
 
 "I have one of your telescope rods that has seen service 
 for nearly twenty years, and seems good for that many 
 more." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 West Liberty, Iowa, Feb. 2, 1910. 
 
 102 
 
^1^1^ 
 
 SPECIAL BAIT CASTING ROD NO. 27 
 
 The handle is 14 inches long with double cork grips and 
 our patent detachable finger hook. 
 
 We have these rods in stock 4^54 feet, 5 feet, and 5J4 feet 
 long. Other lengths can be supplied to order. Weight, 
 about 9% ounces. 
 
 The No. 27 rod is built on the lines of the No. 35, ex- 
 cept that it has a double cork grip handle, and agate mount- 
 ings throughout. The fact that the rod is fitted with agate 
 guides with large openings and that the top is offset to bring 
 the opening in line with the guides reduces the friction of 
 the line to a minimum, and the rod is very popular for this 
 reason. 
 
 Prices, each 
 No. 27— Bait Casting Rod $11.00 
 
 Made No Mistake. 
 
 "I have bought your No. 16 Trout Fly Rod of a local 
 dealer and am very well satisfied. I have made no mistake 
 in buying a 'Bristol' Rod. I am going to buy one of your 
 lasting rods later on. I don't have much time to go angling, 
 but when I do I want the best." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Dunkirk, N. Y., April 11, 1910. 
 
 Hate to Lay Away. 
 
 Rochester, N. Y., Feb. 24, 1910. 
 
 "It is one of your telescope poles. I have had it 7 or 8 
 years and I think it has done more fishing than any other 
 turned out of factory. This last fall I broke the tip and 
 second joint, and I would like to know if I can get them re- 
 placed as I hate to lay the old fellow away. I intend getting 
 a new one anyway as I want an extra in case of emergency." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 103 
 
==^ 
 
 «=^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ass 
 
 NO. 33 BAIT CASTING ROD 
 
 The No. 33 rod is fitted with three narrow agate-casting 
 guides and special design light offset agate top. Double cork 
 grip handle 12J^ inches long with detachable finger hook. 
 Handle mountings finished in French gray on nickel. 
 Weight, about 8 ounces. We have these rods in stock 4^, 
 5, 5}4 and 6 feet in length. 
 
 This rod is a lighter, classier edition of the No. 27, and 
 the best light steel bait-casting rod ever put out. The agates 
 are selected with the greatest of care, the handle trimmings 
 finished in a new electroplate fully as durable as bright nickel 
 and much richer in appearance, while the whole rod in every 
 respect is made with the utmost care. 
 
 Prices, each 
 No. 33 Bait Casting Rod $12.00 
 
 Sure is a Daisy. 
 
 "I have purchased a 'Bristol' Rod No. 17 and it sure is a 
 daisy. I just returned from a month's outing. I will tell the 
 boys at the Fort if they want good fishing to get a 'Bristol' 
 Rod for it beats them all." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Washington, July 30, 1910. 
 
 It's a Dandy. 
 "I have purchased one of your steel rods. And it is a 
 dandy. I have caught more fish on my 'Bristol' rod than any 
 other that I have had." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Chenango Falls, N. Y., July 26, 1910. 
 
 It's a Lucky Rod. 
 
 "My 'Bristol' has been a lucky rod and I do not care to 
 dse any other when I go fishing." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 York, Pa., June 27, 1910. 
 
 104 
 
1910 
 
 "The Enthusiast" is the title of the above 
 "Bristol" Calendar for 1910 (now out of print). 
 This was made from an oil painting by the 
 angler-artist, N. C. Wyeth. The 20,000 calen- 
 dars made from this painting were all disposed 
 of, and between 500 and 600 orders in excess of 
 the supply had to be returned. The original 
 painting is now very valuable, but is not for sale. 
 It has a prominent place in the ' ' Bristol" Fishing 
 Gallery. 
 

 iOFtT^^i^MiB 
 
 JOINTED BAIT ROD NO. 23 
 
 Handle mountings nickel, with solid reel seat above the hand, 
 
 trimmed with two-ring German silver tie guides and 
 
 German silver three-ring tip. 
 
 Bait rod, 7 feet 8 inches in length; the joints are n^A 
 inches long. Weight, with celluloid handle, 9^ ounces. As 
 shown above, rod has five joints and handle. 
 
 The No. 23 is designed for bait fishing where the angler 
 wishes a rod of moderate length that can be carried in a dress 
 suit case or grip. It is only 17% inches long over all when 
 cased and makes a very handy outfit for traveling men. 
 
 Prices, each 
 
 With polished maple handle $7.00 
 
 With celluloid wound handle 7.50 
 
 With cork grip handle 8.00 
 
 Worth Double the Price. 
 
 "I beg to advise that I have one of your Expert Bait 
 Casting Rods No. 15 with celluloid wound handle which I 
 purchased about 14 months ago and if I could not get an- 
 other I would not take double the price that I paid for this 
 one, as I think that they are the best rod that I ever used." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Alexandria, Va., May 19, 1910. 
 
 Would Not Part With It. 
 
 "I have purchased a No. 4 'Bristol' from Von Lengerke 
 and Antone of this city and caught 34 bass in the Manitowoc 
 River (Wis.) with it last Friday. It certainly is a dandy and 
 I would not part with it if I could not get another." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Chicago, 111., July 20, 1910. 
 
 105 
 
NOS. 21 AND 22 MUSCALLONGE RODS 
 
 Handle mountings nickel; is made with two joints and 
 
 handle; trimmed with German silver trumpet 
 
 guides and double hole tip. 
 
 No. 21. Rod, 7 feet 6 inches in length; the joints are 38 
 inches long. Weight, 13 ounces. 
 
 No. 22. Rod, 6 feet 6 inches in length; the joints are 32 
 inches long. Weight, 13 ounces. 
 
 These rods, made in two lengths, are very popular indeed 
 for muscallonge fishing and also for deep sea fishing where 
 fish do not run over fifty pounds in weight. They are exten- 
 sively used in the waters around New York for weakfish, and 
 similar fishing, with uniformly good results. 
 
 Nos. 31 and 23. Prices, each 
 
 With either celluloid wound long or double grip 
 
 handle $6.75 
 
 With either cork grip long or cork double grip 
 
 handle 7.25 
 
 With either celluloid wound long or double grip 
 
 handle, with agate first guide and solid agate top 8.00 
 
 With either cork grip long or cork double grip han- 
 dle, with agate first guide and solid agate top... 8.50 
 When so ordered we can furnish the above rods with an 
 
 extra large handle with 1 inch reel seat. 
 
 Stay On the Job. 
 
 "Have used 'Bristol' Rods six years on Lake Sunapee up 
 here, and have had some big ones on them at different times, 
 such as white trout and salmon, and they have always stayed 
 on the job. And if anyone thinks a fourteen pound salmon 
 can't make a rod jump, well come up and try and see." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Newport, N. H., June 6, 1910. 
 
 Used Roughly, Still Good. 
 "I am at present owner of three steel rods, 'Bristols," 
 which have met every obstacle a rod can and has been used 
 rather roughly, but thanks to your good name they are still 
 as good as new." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 New York City, N. Y., May 5, 1910. 
 
 106 
 
=^ 
 
 iiEQiniiiiBi^ 
 
 SALT WATER ROD FOR TARPON, TUNA, AND SURF 
 FISHING NO. 26 
 
 This rod is equipped with our patent locking reel band. 
 
 The rod is 6 feet 9 inches in length; the joints are SV/i 
 inches long. Weight, 26 ounces. The handle is 24i/^ inches 
 long, and has 1 inch reel seat. The guides are special agate, 
 German silver mounted, with agate stirrup top, German silver 
 mounted. 
 
 For Tarpon, Tuna and Surf Fishing the No. 26 rod is 
 unexcelled. It is used for Tarpon in Florida, Texas and on 
 the Mexican Coast, for Tuna and Albacore in California, for 
 surf fishing along the Jersey shore, and even for shark fishing 
 with rod and reel. The rod has a record of a shark weighing 
 500 pounds caught off the North Carolina Coast. 
 
 The rod is very convenient to carry, is fitted with tmusu- 
 ally strong and serviceable agate guides and agate top, and, 
 what is most important in any fishing rod, especially for 
 heavy work, IT KEEPS ITS SHAPE AND CANNOT BE 
 WARPED. The No. 26 is heavily nickeled over copper, and 
 finished over this with three coats of enamel baked on. For 
 strength and durability this rod is the equal of any other 
 make costing twice as much. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With celluloid wound grips $12.00 
 
 With cork grips 14.00 
 
 Good as New After 10 Years. 
 "Used it for more than 10 years and it is just as good as 
 the day I got it. I have been careful with the rod as I 
 thought a great deal of it. But it has stood good hard usage 
 at times. The enamel is good on it yet. The one I have is an 
 86 in. rod." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Oil City, Pa., Oct. 3, 1910. 
 
 Landed 35 Trout. 
 
 "I have purchased a 'Bristol' Rod some 10 days ago. 
 Tried it last Sunday, at Pt. Reyes, and landed 35 fine trout. 
 The rod certainly proves satisfactory." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 San Francisco, Cal., April 39, 1910. 
 
 107 
 
JOINTED FLY ROD NO. 8 
 
 Fly rod, 10 feet in length; the joints are 38 inches long. 
 Weight, 9}4 ounces. Handle mountings nickel, with solid 
 reel seat below the hand. This rod has two-ring German 
 silver tie guides and German silver one-ring fly tip. Is made 
 with three joints and handle. 
 
 The No. 8 is an excellent trout rod, of good length and 
 both flexible and strong. With but little practice the angler 
 may learn to cast a fly with the Bristol fly rods both to a 
 good distance and accurately. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With polished maple handle $4.50 
 
 With celluloid wound handle 5.00 
 
 With cork grip handle 5.50 
 
 I Always Recommend "Bristol." 
 
 "I have a 'Bristol' Rod, one of the best, and it has for 
 years caught all sorts of fish that could be caught on a rod, 
 and after all it is as good to-day as ever it was, with the ex- 
 ception of the enamel a little chipped in places, I have always 
 recommended your Rods to my sporting friends as one of 
 the best that can be purchased for money, and when I re- 
 quire another one I shall duplicate the one I have if possible 
 to do so." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Central Islip, N. Y., May 4th, 1910. 
 
 Good Sized Bass. 
 
 "Have used one of your rods the last two years and it 
 still remains as good as new. Have caught some pretty good 
 size bass and pickerel with it on the lakes near here, mostly 
 on Twin Lakes. Don't ask for a better rod." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Kenosha, Wis., June 25, 1910. 
 
 Nothing Better. 
 
 "Have used a 'Bristol' for eight years and want nothing 
 better." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Fine, N. Y., April 9, 1910. 
 
 108 
 
•• 
 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ■~^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 '• 
 
 
 — ^ .gi— " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 IHH 
 
 NO. 16 JOINTED FLY ROD 
 
 No. 16. The "RANGELEY" FLY ROD, 9 feet in 
 length; the joints are 34 inches long. Weight, 8J4 ounces. 
 Handle mountings nickel, with solid reel seat below the hand. 
 This rod has German silver drop-ring guides and one-ring 
 fly tip. It is made with three joints and handle. 
 
 The No. 16 is a splendid all around rod for fishing for 
 trout and bass with the fly. It is flexible enough to give ex- 
 cellent results as a fly rod, and on the other hand, has suf- 
 ficient backbone to use as a bait rod. This is a very popular 
 model for Maine fishing, as is indicated by the name "Range- 
 ley." 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With polished maple handle $4.50 
 
 With celluloid wound handle 5.00 
 
 With cork grip handle 5.50 
 
 Used Over 8 Years. 
 
 "I have used 'Bristol' rods for over eight years and 
 therefore know how to appreciate one. A salmon of 14^ 
 pounds was a big one to get, but a 'Bristol' Steel Rod did the 
 trick. Lake Sunapee is great salmon grounds and there 
 seems to be a great future here for 'Bristol' Rods." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Chelsea, Mass., Oct. 15, 1910. 
 
 Like to Show It Off. 
 
 "I purchased a 'Bristol' Rod from a conductor. It is a 
 'Humdinger.' I like it so well I keep it in my office all the 
 time to 'show it off.' " 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Fairbanks, Tex., August 8, 1910. 
 
 Always Given Satisfaction. 
 
 "It has been my pleasure to use a 'Bristol' Rod during 
 the past six or eight years, and same has always given satis- 
 faction." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 New York City, N. Y., April 18, 1910. 
 
 109 
 

 —s- 
 
 
 
 
 
 1/ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■Si" 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 JOINTED FLY RODS NOS. 9 AND 14 
 
 No. 9. Fly rod, 9 feet 6 inches in length; the joints are 
 36 inches long. Weight, 8 ounces. Handle mountings, Ger- 
 man silver, with solid reel seat below the hand. This rod 
 has German silver drop-ring guides and one-ring fly tip. 
 
 No. 14. Fly rod, 8 feet 7 inches in length; the joints are 
 33 inches long. Weight, lyi ounces. Handle mountings Ger- 
 man silver, with solid reel seat below the hand. This rod 
 has German silver drop-ring guides and one-ring fly tip; is 
 very finely balanced. It is made with three joints and handle. 
 
 The No. 9 and No. 14 are exceptionally fine fly rods, and 
 are very popular indeed for stream fishing. They hang espe- 
 cially well and are the finest steel fly rods made. 
 
 Price, each 
 Nos. 9 and 14 — With either celluloid wound or cork 
 
 grip handle $6.50 
 
 Unless otherwise ordered we always furnish the above 
 rods with a cork grip handle. 
 
 Has a Backbone. 
 
 "Have purchased a 'Bristol' Rod, No. 4 Bait Casting, 10 
 ft. in length. I wish to say that I have given it a trial and 
 it is what I call a Rod with a Back Bone and don't think any 
 angler that enjoys fishing can afford to miss the superiority 
 of the 'Bristol' Rod. They are the ideal of steel rods.'' 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Kamiah, Ida., Apr. 9, 1910. 
 
 Lifting 3 lb. Bullheads. 
 
 "I purchased one of your 8^ ft. Bass Rods 8 years ago. 
 It has seen as hard usage as any rod ever could — from land- 
 ing large Pickerel to lifting 3 pound Bullheads bodily out of 
 the water. The rod is as good as new excepting the enamel 
 is worn from usage. I made a sale of 4 Bass Rods for you 
 this year after the boys saw what mine would do." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Hudson, C, May 11, 1910. 
 
 110 
 
TRUNK ROD NO. 24 
 
 Handle Mountings nickel, with solid reel seat below the hand, 
 
 trimmed with German silver drop-ring guides 
 
 and one-ring fly tip. 
 
 Fly rod, 9 feet in length; the joints are 17J4 inches long. 
 Weight, with cork handle, 854 ounces. 
 
 The No. 24 is designed for fiy fishing where the angler 
 wishes a rod of good length that can be carried readily in a 
 trunk or grip. It is only 17^4 inches long over all when 
 cased, and makes a very handy outfit for traveling men who 
 like to do a little fly fishing whenever they have the oppor- 
 tunity. The rod is nicely balanced, hangs well and gives very 
 good results. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With polished maple handle $8.00 
 
 With celluloid .wound handle 8,50 
 
 With cork grip handle 9.00 
 
 ALL BRISTOL FLY RODS ARE FITTED WITH 
 SNAKE GUIDES WHEN SO ORDERED. 
 
 Have Never Seen Their Equal. 
 
 "I have used your fishing rods for the last four or five 
 years and have never seen their equal as an all-round rod. 
 They catch fish, and above all, hold them." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Walla Walla, Wn., July 14, 1910. 
 
 Used With Great Success. 
 
 "I have been using one of your bait casting rods for sev- 
 eral years with great success, I also used one of your trout 
 rods three years ago and think your rods are the acme of 
 perfection." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Detroit, Mich., April 26, 1910. 
 
 Ill 
 
ADJUSTABLE TELESCOPIC BAIT RODS 
 Nos. 34 and 35 
 
 Adjustable to any length, and joints locked in placeby a 
 very ingenious device, which must be seen to be appreciated. 
 
 No. 34. Bait rod, length, 9 feet. Joints, 26^ inches. 
 When telescoped 30 inches long. 
 
 No. 35. Bait rod, length, Syi feet. Joints, 25 inches. 
 When telescoped 28 inches long. 
 
 Handle mountings nickel, rods trimmed with two-ring 
 German silver tie guides and German silver three-ring tip. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With polished maple reversible handle $4.50 
 
 With celluloid wound reversible handle 5.00 
 
 With cork grip reversible handle 5.50 
 
 A Great Combination. 
 
 "I own two 'Bristol' Steel Rods. One fly rod and one 
 casting rod and I find in them a combination of all things 
 that are necessary to make them satisfy every want of the 
 fisherman. I don't want anything better." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Blytheville, Arkansas, March 8, 1910. 
 
 Highly Pleased. 
 
 "I have purchased a 'Bristol' Rod from a local house 
 who sell your rods. This is two of your rods I have in my 
 possession now, and am highly pleased with them. I prefer 
 the 'Bristol' Rod to bamboo rods." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Logan, Utah, July 26th, 1910. 
 
 My Third. 
 "Have recently purchased one of your 5 foot Casting 
 Rods, as it is my third one in the last ten years. I don't, 
 of course, mean to say the others are worn out; on the con- 
 trary, they are all as good as new. The 'Bristol' may cost a 
 little more than some of the others. I find it cheaper than 
 any other in the long run." 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Joplin, Mo., July 14, 1910. 
 
 112 
 
1911 
 
 "A Tragedy" is what Oliver Kemp, the 
 painter of the above picture, calls it. This is 
 the 1911 "Bristol" Calendar. The debutante 
 angler has allowed her prize to take advantage 
 of the slack in the line. He quickly tangles the 
 line among the snags and wins back his freedom. 
 The experienced fisherman with the net under- 
 stands the cause and effect. Art proofs (18 x 27, 
 without the calendar pad or any other markings 
 on the front), will be mailed, prepaid, by the 
 Horton Manufacturing Company, Bristol, Conn., 
 prior to July 1, 1911, or until the limited supply 
 is exhausted, on receipt of One Dollar. The 
 calendar is mailed, prepaid, on recipt of IS cents, 
 prior to September 1, 1911, or as long as the 
 limited supply lasts. 
 
ADJUSTABl T, TELESCOPIC BAIT CASTING RODS 
 Nos. 36 and 37 
 
 Adjustable to any length, and joints locked in place by a 
 very ingenious device, which must be seen to be appreciated. 
 
 No. 36. Bait casting rod, length, 5 feet. Joints, 14^ 
 inches. When telescoped 20 inches long. 
 
 No. 37. Bait casting rod, length, 6 feet. Joints 17% 
 inches. When telescoped 23 inches long. 
 
 These rods have short cork grip handle with patent de- 
 tachable finger hook, large polished German silver improved 
 casting guides and solid agate top with extra large opening 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With cork grip handle only $6.85 
 
 These rods with all agate casting guides and casting 
 
 agate top 9.2S 
 
 Will Do Its Share. 
 
 "I purchased one of your higher-priced rods some weeks 
 ago, and am well pleased with it. It is neat in appearance, 
 and seems to be durably put together. I like it especially 
 as a casting rod, in which respect it seems to excel more 
 expensive rods purchased by me in the past. Unless I miss 
 my guess, your rod will do its share toward making the com- 
 ing summer an enjoyable and rememberable one for me." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Boonton, N. J., May 26th, 1910. 
 
 Eleven Black Basa 38 lbs. 
 
 "I left Qio recently en route to here, stopped at Eagle 
 Lake in Lassen County of this state for a few days. While 
 there I got eleven Black Bass with a total weight of 38 
 pounds, the largest weighing a trifle over five pounds. My 
 father, who was with me, got one that weighed seven pounds, 
 which with two others that he caught gave him a total of 16 
 pounds." 
 
 (Name on request.) 
 
 Yreka, Cal., October 6th, 1910. 
 
 113 
 
■ <TfS l W) i p A j O 
 
 ADJUSTABLE TELESCOPIC FLY ROD NO. 38 
 
 Adjustable to any length and joints locked in place by a 
 very ingenious device, which must be seen to be appreciated. 
 
 No. 38. Fly rod, length, 9 feet. Joints, 2654 inches. When 
 telescoped 30 inches long. Handle mountings nickel, rod 
 trimmed with two-ring German silver tie guides and German 
 silver one-ring fly top. 
 
 Price, each 
 
 With polished maple reversible handle $4-50 
 
 With celluloid reversible handle 5.00 
 
 With cork reversible handle 5.50 
 
 114 
 
FISHING FOR HEALTH 
 
 Fishing is probably the healthiest sport. When you go 
 fishing you get away from your business, or professional or 
 household worries. You are out in the open air; you always 
 have the expectation of feeling a thrill along your rod; there 
 is just enough interest all the time in fishing to keep your 
 mind away from the things that have worn you out. You 
 are continually being excited by "hunters" and ''nibblers." 
 Then, you are getting "strikes" which don't materialize. You 
 are bringing some fish up to the boat which get away at the 
 last moment. You are frequently thinking about the danger 
 you -un when out in a storm, or the excitement and the fun 
 of tramping a long ways back to camp when something hap- 
 pens to the boat, or the team don't meet you. 
 
 Then, too, you have the photographs you take of your 
 catch and the interesting things to talk about, which you will 
 have to tell your chums when you get back home. You are 
 frequently meeting fine companions from other localities; 
 you are making friends; you are taking the exercise that 
 every man should take — particularly those men who work 
 with their heads instead of with their hands. 
 
 You are not stuffing yourself with so much food that 
 you cannot digest it properly. You are not eating such rich 
 food; your appetite comes back; you gain in vigor and en- 
 thusiasm; you have just enough mishaps and good luck to 
 enliven your trip and make you glad you went. You are 
 seeing new country and having new experiences. 
 
 So it goes. You come back from your fishing trip not 
 knowing until you get back how much good the trip has done 
 you, and how surprisingly rested and recuperated are both, 
 mind and body. 
 
 Go fishing, friend, and have a real rest. Don't waste a 
 vacation. Do something worth while. You've only one life 
 to live — the more you fish the brighter will seem the days, 
 "along towards sunset." 
 
 115 
 
Originated, Written, Illustiated and Printed by 
 
 M. p. GOULD COMPIINY 
 
 Advertising Aeeacr 
 Nev York