ASIA 
 
 LIBRARN 
 
 ANNEX 
 
 2 
 
(QatttcU Iniocraitg ffiibrarg 
 
 atljara, JJeai fork 
 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 COLLECTION 
 
 CHINA AND THE CHINESE 
 
 THE GIFT OF 
 CHARLES WILLIAM WASON 
 CLASS OF 1''76 
 
 I9ie 
 
Cornelt University Library 
 SB 271.W22 
 
 "A cup of tea" containina a history of 
 
 3 1924 023 998 184 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023998184 
 
'BMANiOM OF VBA P&MNiV,** 
 
"A CUP OF TEV 
 
 CONTAINING A HISTORY OF THE 
 
 FROM ITS DISCOVERY TO THE PRESENT TIME, INCLUDING ITS 
 
 BOTANICAL -GHARAGTEEISTICS, QEOGEAPHICAL DISTRI- 
 BUTION, CULTIVATION AND PREPARATION, CHEM- 
 ICAL AND MEDICAL PROPERTIES, COMMER- 
 CIAL CLASSIFICATION, ADULTER- 
 ATION AND DETECTION, 
 ART OF TESTING, 
 
 BLENDING, 
 STATISTICS, ETC., 
 
 and embracing 
 Mk. William Saunders' Pamphlet on 
 
 '■ TEA-CULTURE— A. PROBABLE AMERICAN INDUSTRY." 
 
 JOSEPH M. WALSH. 
 
 " Tli9 Oap that CliesrB, M not Iiekrlatei," 
 
 PHILADELPHIA: 
 
 Published bt Tub Authob, 
 
 1884. 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by 
 JOSEPH M. WALSH, 
 in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. . 
 
Messrs. James Ashbrook, Joseph P. Smith, WiUiam A. Backus 
 
 AND MANY OTHERS OF THE 
 
 Eetail Srooery Trade of Fhiladelphia, 
 THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY 
 
 ffeditHied, 
 
 As A SLIGHTJttARK OF THE GRATITUDE I FEEL FOR THE UNIFORM KINDNESS, CONFIDENCE 
 AND GENEROUS PATRONAQE BESTOWED ON ME BY THEM IN MY EARLY 
 EFFORTS TO ATTAIN A STANDING AMONG THE MERCAN- 
 TILE COMMUNITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
PREFATORY. 
 
 Utility, not originality, has been aimed 
 at in the compilation of this work. The dif- 
 ficulties and obstacles its author had met with, 
 in his endeavors to learn something of the 
 article he was commissioned to sell, when he 
 first entered the Tea business, and the almost 
 total lack of knowledge displayed by the aver- 
 age dealer in the commodity, allied to the nu- 
 merous inquiries made from time to time for 
 a work, containing "all about tea," first 
 prompted the undertaking. 
 
 The material was collated at intervals in a 
 fragmentary manner, and arranged amid the 
 many interruptions incident to a business life, 
 being subjected to constant revisions, repeated 
 prunings and frequent corrections, due mainly, 
 to the conflicting opinions and varying state- 
 ments of authorities in every branch of 
 the subject. Yet, as careful an arrangement 
 of the data has been given as possible, a faith- 
 ful effort being made to omit nothing that may 
 prove useful, instructive or profitable to the gen- 
 eral reader, or those who trade in or use the 
 article. 
 
It was compiled under impulse, Hot under 
 inducement. Not a line being intended origi- 
 nally for the market, and is published solely 
 for those "whom it niay concern." 
 
 "While rendering due credit for much of the 
 contents to the appended publications, viz., 
 JoJinson^s and the JEnci/clopcedias Brittanica, 
 Americana and similar works, its author feels 
 called upon to express his indebtedness par- 
 ticularly to Mr. David M. Stone, editor-in- 
 chief of the New York Journal of Commerce for 
 the invariably kind, prompt and valuable in- 
 formation furnished him in his efforts to pro- 
 duce " A Cup of Tea." 
 
 Aware that many errors may have been com- 
 mitted, and many facts have been omitted, 
 he would ask of those who may bestow any 
 attention on the work, to assist him by point- 
 ing out what is erratic, or furnishing what has 
 been omitted. So that he may be enabled 
 to rectify the one and supply the other. Still 
 he trusts that the pains he has taken to avoid 
 both have not been in vain, that the former 
 may be few, and the latter of no great import- 
 ance. 
 
 To the critic, his reply is, that the best has 
 been done with the abilities, facilities and op- 
 portunities at command ; to the cynic and 
 pseudo "expert" Surpass it! 
 
 Philadelphia, January, 1884. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 I. — Early Histoey and Introduction 
 
 INTO Europe 11 
 
 II. — Geographical Distribution, ... 26 
 
 III. — Botanical Characteristics and 
 
 Form, 36 
 
 IV. — Cultivation and Preparation, . . 52 
 
 V. — Chemical, Medicinal and Dietical 
 
 Properties, 76 
 
 VI. — Commercial Classification and 
 
 Description, 97 
 
 VII. — Adulteration and Detection, . . 131 
 
 VIII. — The Art op Testing, Blending and 
 
 Preparing for USE, . ..... 139 
 
 IX. — Statistics, 164 
 
 X. — Tea-Culture, A Probable Ameri- 
 can Industry 177 
 
Chapter I. 
 EARLY HISTORY. 
 
 The history of Tea is intimately bound up with that 
 of China, that is so far as the Western World is- con- 
 cerned. Its use was for centuries confined to but two 
 countries of the Ea&t, China and Japan ; but having 
 within the past two hundred years become known 
 and almost indispensible as an article of diet, in every 
 civilized country of the globe, it cannot but prove in- 
 teresting, to inquire into the history and properties of 
 a commodity, which could have induced so large a por- 
 tion of the human race to forsake so many other articles 
 in its favor, and what the results of its extensive con- 
 sumption. 
 
 The original country of tea is not definitely known, 
 but from the fact of its being in use as a beverage in 
 China from very early times, it is commonly attributed 
 to that country. Yet, though the plant has been found in 
 a truly wild state in the mountain ranges of Assam, and 
 in a state of cultivation through a wide range from India 
 to Japan, the exact period of its first cultivation in China 
 is also in doubt. 
 
A Cup of Tea. 
 
 It was not known to the Greeks or Romans, and that it 
 could not have been known in India in very early times, is 
 inferred from the fact that no mention is made of either 
 the plant or its product in the Sanskrit, and though now so 
 extensively employed, forming as it does the almost 
 universal beverage of the civilized world, its introduc- 
 tion into Europe is of comparatively recent origin. 
 
 That the plant and its use as affording a very agreea- 
 ble and exhilerating beverage, must have been familiar 
 to the Chinese from a very early period, and that even 
 as an article of traffic with other nations, it was known 
 as early as the first century of the Christian era, the 
 following extract from an ancient work, entitled the 
 " Periplous of the Erythrsen Sea " may serve to show. 
 The aut"hor usually, supposed to be Arrian, after de- 
 scribing " a city called Thinse," proceeds to narrate a 
 yearly mercantile journey to its vicinity of " a certain 
 people called Sesatai, of short stature, broad face and flat 
 noses," evidently natives of China. 
 
 " The articles they bring for traffic," he continues 
 " outwardly resemble vine leaves, and are wrapped in 
 mats, which they leave behind them on their departure, 
 returning to their countries in the interior. From 
 these mats, the Thinse pick out the haulm called petros, 
 and drawing out the fibres and stalks spread the leaves 
 double, and make them up into balls passing the fibres 
 through them. In this form the balls take the name of 
 Malabathrum, and under this name they are brought in- 
 to India by those who prepare them." 
 
 Under any interpretation, this account sounds like a 
 remote, obscure and confused story. Still one of the au- 
 thors of the able " Historical Account of China," pub- 
 
Early History. 13 
 
 lished in 1836, has ventured to identify this Malabath- 
 rum of the Thinse with the tea of China. 
 
 "Vossius Vincent and other authors to the contrary, 
 whilst admitting the difficulty of understanding why it 
 should be carried from Arracan to China, and from China 
 back again to India, unhesitatingly assert that the Mala- 
 bathrum was nothing more than the betel leaf so widely 
 used in the East as a masticatory. 
 
 Horace mentions Malabathrura, but only as an oint- 
 ment ; Pliny refers to it, both in that sense and as a 
 medicine, and also as a masticatory ; while Dioscorides 
 describes it as a masticatory only. 
 
 The author of the " Historical Account of China," pre- 
 fers to consider the passage in the " Periplous " as a very 
 clumsy account of a process, not intelligently understood 
 by the describer, but as agreeing far better with the ma- 
 nipulation of tea than with that of the betel leaf, and 
 his conjecture unsupported as it is, merits citation if only 
 for its originality. 
 
 Some authorities contend that tea was first introduced 
 into China from Corea about the fourth century, and 
 that its cultivation extended from there to Japan during 
 the ninth century. Other writers again contend that As- 
 sam in British India is the original country of tea, it 
 having been found in a wild state in Upper Assam and 
 on the slopes of the Himalayas. 
 
 Chinese authorities agree in the assertion that the tea 
 plant is indigenous to their country, and that it was first 
 discovered among the hills of those central provinces, 
 where it still grows so abundantly — some of them plac- 
 ing the date in the eighth, some in the ninth century. 
 
 The Japanese, to whom the tea plant is as valuable as 
 
14 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 it is to the Chinese, affirm that both countries obtained 
 it simultaneously about A. D. 828, from Corea, but this 
 claim is not sustained by any proof whatever-. 
 
 Von Siebold relying upon the statements of certain 
 Japanese writers to that effect, argues in support of 
 their assertions. The improbability of which is uncon- 
 sciously admitted by Von Siebold himself, when he ob- 
 serves, " that in the southern provinces of Japan, the 
 plant is abundant on the plains, but as the traveller ad-~ 
 vances towards the mountains it disappears," and hence 
 he infers that it is an exotic. The converse of this theory 
 holds good of China, so that a like inference would tend 
 to confirm the claims of the Chinese, that with them 
 the plant is indigenous. 
 
 That the Japanese did not originally obtain the plant 
 from Corea, but from China, is abundantly proven by 
 the Japanese themselves, some of whom tacitly admit 
 that it was first introduced into their country by the 
 Chinese in the ninth century. In support of this ac- 
 knowledgment it is here interesting to note as proving 
 the Chinese origin of tea, that there is still standing at 
 Oojee, not far from Osaka in Japan, a temple erected 
 on what is said to be the first tea plantation, sacred to 
 the traditions of the Japanese, and in honor of the 
 Chinese who first introduced the tea plant into the 
 Island empire. 
 
 True, the plant is grown in many countries of the East 
 at the present time, but all its western traditions point 
 to China, and to China only, as being the original coun- 
 try of tea, and that the plant is native and indigenous 
 to that country, is indisputably beyond question. 
 
 Yet even in China no authentic account of the tea plant 
 
Early History. 15 
 
 can be found earlier than A. D. 750. The only posi- 
 tive reference we have of it, up to that period, is con- 
 tained in the Kiang-Moo (a historical epitome quoted 
 by Mr. Ball). In this work it is stated that an impost- 
 duty was levied on tea by an edict of the Emperor 
 Te-Tsing, in the fourteenth year of his reign A. D. 782. 
 
 McPherson in his " History of European commerce 
 with India," states that tea is mentioned as the usual' 
 beverage of the Chinese by Solieman an Arabian mer- 
 chant, who wrote an account of his travels in the East 
 about A. D. 850. 
 
 By the ninth Century, however, it was found in general 
 use as a beverage among the Chinese. The tax upon it 
 at that period being a source of considerable revenue to the 
 emperor, as recorded by Abuzeid-el-Hazen, an Arabian 
 traveller cited by Eenaudot in a translation of his work. 
 
 There is also independent evidence furnished by two 
 other Arabian travellers, in the narrative of their wan- 
 derings during the latter half of the ninth century, ad- 
 mitting their statements to be trustworthy, as to the 
 general use of tea as a beverage by the Chinese at that 
 period. 
 
 These references are the first positive allusions to tea' 
 describing its use among the Chinese. 
 
 INTRODUCTION INTO EUROPE. 
 
 Probably the earliest European notice of tea is to be 
 found in the second volume of Ramusio, first printed in 
 A. D. 1559, though written several years prior. In it 
 he quotes Hazzi-Mohamed to the following effect : " And 
 these people of Cathay (China) do say that if those in 
 
1 6 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 our parts of the world (Persia and the country of the 
 Franks) only knew of it (tea) there is no doubt that our 
 merchants M'ould cease altogether to buy Ravino Cini as 
 they call Rhubarb in these parts." 
 
 No accounts at present accessible establish the exact 
 date of the first introduction of tea into Europe. It is 
 also a difficult matter to determine to which of the two 
 nations, Holland or Portugal, the credit of the first in- 
 tfoduction belongs. Authorities are about equally divi- 
 ded on the question. Some claim that the Dutch 
 East India Company was the first to bring it to Amster- 
 dam, in A. D. 1600, and from thence say it was carried 
 to London, while Portuguese writers claim its introduc- 
 tion by them,priortothatyear. An indisputable argument 
 in favor of the latter is the notice given of it by Giovanni 
 Pietro Maffei, in his " History of India," published in 
 1 559. " The inhabitants of China like those of Japan," 
 he writes, " extract from an herb called chia, a beverage 
 which they drink warm, and which is extrernely whole- 
 some, being a remi'dy against phlegm, langour and blear- 
 edness, and a promoter of longevity." Elsewhere he 
 tells us " that the Japanese are very careful to have their 
 tea well made, and that the most distinguished persons 
 prepare it for their friends with their own hands, and 
 even have rooms in their houses especially devoted to 
 that service." 
 ' Giovanni Botero, another Portuguese, in a work pub- 
 lished the same year, says of the Chinese, " That they 
 have an herb from which they press a delicate juice, 
 which they use instead of wine, and find it to be a pre- 
 servative against those diseases which are produced by 
 the immoderate use of wine amongst us." 
 
Early History. 17 
 
 Taxiera also a native of Portugal, states that he saw 
 the dried leaves of the tea-plant at Malacca, prior to the 
 year A. D. 1600. 
 
 The article is also mentioned in one of the earliest 
 privileges or licenses accorded to the Portuguese for trad- 
 ing, in A . D. 1518 ; yet it was not until the expiration 
 of more than a eentnry from the beginning of that trade 
 that we find a distinct account from a European pen of 
 the use of tea as a beverage. 
 
 The earliest mention made of tea by an Englishman 
 to be found, is that contained in a letter from Mr. Wick- 
 ham, an agent of the East India Company, written from 
 Firando in Japan, dated June 2'Jth, 1615, to a Mr. Eaton, 
 another officer of the Company, resident at Macao, and 
 asking for " a pot of the best Chaw " (tea). How the 
 commission was executed does not appear, but in Mr. 
 Eaton's subsequent account of expenditure occurs this 
 item, "Three silver porringers to drink tea in." 
 
 Travellers in China and other Eastern countries in 
 the early part of the seventeenth century, give most ex- 
 travagant accounts of the virtues of tea, which appears 
 to have been in very general use throughout a large 
 portion of Asia at that period. 
 
 Father Alexander de Rhodes a Jesuit missionary, who 
 entered China in 1633, remained there for more than 
 twenty years, and afterwards travelled through other parts 
 of Asia, asserts, " that the use of tea was then common in the 
 East, and begins I perceive to be hnmvn in Europe. It 
 is in all the world to be found only in two provinces of 
 China, those of Nanquin and Chin-Chian, where the 
 gathering of it occupies the people as the vintage occu- 
 pies us," " They drink it," he adds, " at all hours," 
 
1 8 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 " He found it," he says in his own experience, " an in- 
 stantaneous remedy for headache, and when compelled 
 to sit up all night to hear confessions, its use saved him 
 from drowsiness and subsequent fatigue." On one oc- 
 casion he tells us, that he sat up for six consecutive 
 nights, but 'he honestly admits- that at the end of them, 
 he was very tired notwithstanding the virtues of tea. 
 
 Adam Olearius describing the -travels of the embassy 
 sent by the Duke of Holstein to Muscovy and Persia in 
 1633, writes of the Persians, " that they are great fre- 
 quenters of th-e taverns called Tzai Chattai Chane, where 
 they have Thea or Cha which the Usbeque Tartais bring 
 thither from Chattai (Cljina.") " The Persians, Indians, 
 Chinese and Japanese,'' he adds, "assign to it extrava- 
 gant qualities, that imagining it alone to keep a man in 
 the best health, they are sure to treat such as come to 
 visit them with this drink at all hours." This author's 
 visit to Persia, as secretary to the embassy whose pro- 
 ceedings he narrates, was made in 1637, yet its English 
 translation did not appear until 1662. But the strong 
 expressions as to the familiar use of tea in Europe, apply- 
 ing as they do to a period certainly not later than 1640, 
 are sufficient to show that the ordinary accounts place 
 the adoption of that beverage, at least as respects the con- 
 tinent, too late. 
 
 In the year 1662, King Charles II of England mar- 
 ried a Portuguese princess, Catharine of Braganza. The 
 poet Waller in a poem celebrating the event, attributes to 
 the Portuguese the credit of its first introduction, which 
 is often quoted in support of the Portuguese claim. 
 The lines are as follows : 
 
Early History. 19 
 
 " Venus her Myrtle, Phoebus has her Bays, 
 Tea both excels, which she vouchsafes to praise ; 
 The best of queens and best of shrubs we owe, 
 To that bold nation which the way did show 
 To the fair region where the sun doth rise. 
 Whose rich productions we so justly prize." 
 
 The following very plausible and ■well attested account 
 of the manner in which tea was originally obtained from 
 China, is given in " Macaulay's History " of his embassy 
 to China. 
 
 "Early in the seventeenth century, some Dutch adven- 
 turers seeking for such objects as might fetch a price in 
 China, and hearing of the general use there of a bever- 
 age produced from a plant of the country, bethought 
 themselves of trying how far a European plant of sup- 
 posed great virtues might also be appreciated by the Chi- 
 nese, and thereby become a salable commodity among 
 them. They accordingly introduced to them the herb 
 Sage, the Dutch accepting in exchange the Chinese tea, 
 which they brought back with them to Europe." This 
 statement only tends to confirm the Portuguese claim. 
 The efforts of the Dutch to open a trade with the Chinese 
 in tea, evidently being made many years subsequent to 
 its first introduction by the former. 
 
 INTRODUCTION INTO ENGLAND. 
 
 Tea evidently was known in England previous to its 
 direct importation. It is supposed to have been brought 
 in small quantities from Holland, but was used only on 
 rare occasions. 
 
 In a newspaper in the British Museum, dated Nov. 
 
20 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 22d, 1651, will be found the following advertisement, 
 " That excellent and by all Physitians approved China 
 Drink, called by Chineans Tcha, by other nations Tay 
 alias Tee is sold at the Sultaness Head, a Cophee house 
 by the Royal Exchange, London." There is also dis- 
 tinct evidence extant that for some years prior to 1657, 
 tea was sold occasionally in England, at prices ranging 
 from thirty to fifty shillings (eight to twelve dollars) 
 per Bb. But in the above year it was regularly oflFered 
 for sale for the first time by Thomas Garraway, the foun- 
 der of the famous London CofFee House, still known as 
 " Garway's," who having purchased a quantity of the 
 rare and much prized commodity for the first time 
 offered it to the public in the leaf at fixed prices, ranging 
 from sixteen to sixty shillings (four to fifteen dollars) per 
 ft), according to quality. He also sold it in the infusion 
 " Made according to the directions of the most knowing 
 merchants and travellers in these Eastern countries." 
 This quotation appeared in a printed sheet issued by 
 Garraway entitled, "An exact description of the growth, 
 quality and virtues of the Tea Leaf." It further stated 
 with respect to its scarceness and dearness, "That it 
 hath been only used as a regalia in high treatments and 
 entertainments and presents made thereof to Grandees." 
 This curious broadside which records this fact is without 
 date, but from internal evidence must have been written 
 in 1659 or 1660. 
 
 In the latter year Anderson, a statistician, says, " that 
 no mention is as yet made in the new book of rates of 
 either tea, chocolate or sherbet," though they are all 
 cited in an act of the first Parliament of the Restoration 
 of the same year, which imposed a tax "on every gallon 
 
Early History* 41 
 
 of chocolate, sherbet and tea, made and sold to be paid by 
 the maker thereof, of eight-pence (sixteen cents) per 
 gallon." 
 
 Pepys also alludes to tea in his diary under date 
 of Sept. 25, 16tjl, " I did send for a cup of Tee, a 
 Cliina drink of which I never drank before." Again 
 in 1667 he further mentions it; the entry reading: 
 " Home and there find my wife making of Tee, a drink 
 which Mr. Felling the Potticary tells her is good for 
 her cold." 
 
 That it must still have continued rare at this period 
 is also evident, as in 166'± it is recorded that the East 
 India Company made the King of England what was 
 then considered " a brilliant present of 2 lbs 2 oz of tea, 
 costing forty shillings (ten dollars) per Bb," and two 
 years afterwards another present of "22f Bbs costing 
 fitly shillings (12J dollars) per fib." Both parcels 
 appear to have been purchased on the Continent for the 
 purpose. 
 
 Not until 1668 is the East India Company credited 
 with taking any steps for the direct importation of tea 
 from China, which although it had been chartered since 
 1600, for the first time thought tea worth their attention 
 as an article of trade. The order then sent to their 
 agents was " For teas of the best kind to the amount of 
 £25 ($100.") But their instructions must have been 
 considerably exceeded, for the quantity shipped was 
 4,713 pounds, a supply which seems to have "glutted the 
 market " lor several years. 
 
 As yet no alarm had been excited that the use of tea 
 was putting in peril the stalwarthood of the British race. 
 
 But in the very year of this large importation however 
 
22 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 we find Mr. Henry Saville writing to his uncle Secre- 
 tary Coventry in sharp reproof of certain friends of his, 
 "Who call for tea instead of pipes and wine after 
 dinner," stigmatising its use " as a base, unworthy 
 Indian practice, which I must ever commend your most 
 Christian family for not admitting," and adding with an 
 audible sigh,_ " The truth is all nations are getting so 
 wicked as to have some of these filthy customs." Whether 
 from some sympathy with the public at large with these 
 indignant reprehensions or from other causes, the whole 
 recorded import of tea during the six years dating from 
 1668 to 1674 amounted only to 410 pounds. 
 
 Until the devolution no duty was laid on tea other 
 than that levied on the infusion as sold in the Coifee 
 Houses. But at that time a duty of five shillings ($1.25) 
 per pound and five per cent, on the value was imposed. 
 
 For several years subseq^uently the quantities im- 
 ported were very small and consisted exclusively of the 
 finer sorts. 
 
 In December, 1680, Thomas Eagle of the King's Head, 
 in St. James Market, inserted in the London Gazette the 
 following advertisement, which shows that tea still con- 
 tinued to be imported independently of the East India 
 Company at rare intervals. " These are to give notice 
 to persons of quality that a small parcel of most excel- 
 lent tea is by accident fallen into the hands of a private 
 person to be sold, but that none may be disappointed 
 the lowest price is 30 shillings ($7.50) per pound, and 
 not any to be sold under a pound weight." The per- 
 sons of quality are also requested " to bring a convenient 
 box with them." 
 
 The first considerable shipment of tea reached London 
 
Early History^ 23 
 
 about the year 1690, from which period the tea trade in- 
 creased rapidly until the closing years of the 17th century, 
 when the importations averaged about 20,000 pounds per 
 annum. In 1703 orders were sent from England to China 
 for 85,000 pounds of Green teas, and 25,000 pounds of 
 Black.* The average price of tea at this period was 
 sixteen shillings (four dollars) per pound. 
 
 Up to 1834 the East India Company enjoyed a 
 monopoly of the trade with England in tea, as in all 
 Chinese products. Since then the trade has been open to 
 all. Russian trade with China opened towards the lat- 
 ter part of the 17th century, being conducted overland, 
 and to this day by barter, and among -some of the peo- 
 ple of Central Asia, as the Mongols and Kalmucks 
 " Brick tea "f still serves as a currency. About the middle 
 of the 17th century a Russian embassy to China brought 
 back to Moscow a package of tea which was received 
 with much favor, so that its introduction into Russia 
 was cotemporaneous with that to England. 
 
 INTRODUCTION INTO THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 The first American ship sailed for China in 1784. 
 The following year two vessels were dispatched and 
 brought back 880,000 pounds of tea. During the year 
 1786-7, five vessels brought to the United States 1,181,- 
 860 pounds. 
 
 Up to 1 845 the trade in tea was transacted almost en- 
 tirely at jCanton. In 1842 the ports of Shanghai, Ning- 
 
 * For continuation of increase of fmports see table of statistics, 
 •j-See " Preparation.'' 
 
H y^^-A- Cup of Tea. 
 
 po, Foo-chow and Amoy were opened to foreigners by 
 the treaty of Nankin ; and the China tea trade is now 
 mainly conducted at Shanghai, Amoy and Foo-chow. 
 As late as 1850, all vessels trading in tea carried consid- 
 erable armaments, a necessary precaution because of the 
 pirates who swarmed in the Unina seas, during the first 
 half of tiie present century. 
 
 In 1844 the Howqua and Montauk were built, the 
 first of a class of vessels known as " Clippers," in which 
 speed was sought, often at the expense of the carrying 
 capacity. By these clipper ships the average passage 
 was reduced 20 to 30 days. In 1867 the first Pacific 
 mail steamer, the Colorado, sailed from fcsan Francisco 
 to Yokohama and Hong Koug, and steam entered the 
 field for the first time in the carrying trade of tea to the 
 United States. 
 
 In I86y the Suez Canal was opened and the route via 
 Europe by steamer was also thrown open to the shippers 
 of tea. Small parcels had already been received (overland) 
 across the Isthmus of Suez before the Ctyial was opened, 
 but steam commuuication practically began with the com- 
 pletion of the Canal. By this date nearly all the teas 
 shipped to England and the United States are in steam 
 vessels, and the sailing ship is last falling out of the 
 China tea trade. 
 
 Steamers have even invaded the precincts of the Cara- 
 van trade to liussia, by taking the teas direct to Oiiessa 
 through the Suez Canal. Tea reaches New York now via 
 San Francisco and iiailroad in Irom 30 to 40 days from 
 Japan, and in from . 40 to 50 from China. The route 
 via the Suez Canal requires 60 to 70 days. 
 
Early History. 25 
 
 At this time tea is on the free list in the United 
 States. The war duty of 25 cents per pound having 
 been reduced January 1st, 1871, to 15 cents, and re- 
 moved entirely July 1st, 1872. There is, however, a 
 differential duty of ten per cent, ad valorem on all teas 
 imported from places west of the Cape of Good Hope, 
 if the tea has been grown East of the Cape. 
 
 The table of statistics at end of volume will show 
 the growth of the export to America and England, and 
 its present proj)ortions. 
 
Chapter II. 
 
 GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION. 
 
 Besides the characters of the different species of tea 
 and other information connected with it, we have to 
 notice the different parts of the world where tea is, or 
 may be cultivated, as many practical questions- of con- 
 siderable importance are connected with the subject. 
 For upwards of two hundred years the world's supply 
 of tea M'as furnished by China and Japan. 
 
 Tea is cultivated over a wide extent of territory in 
 Ciiina, but between what exact degrees of latitude it is 
 difficult to be precise, as we are without definite infor- 
 mation from the extreme northern districts. Although 
 the vast Empire of China has not been so thoroughly 
 explored by botanists as to warrant the assertion that it 
 is not found in a wild state in some portions of that coun- 
 try, yet it has not been found there, except in a cultivated 
 state, or as having evidently escaped from cultivation in 
 stray plants found on roadsides and otiier out-of-the-way 
 places. We know it is cultivated in Yunnan and Canton 
 and -Dr. Wallich mentions it as being cultivated in Cochin 
 China. It is cultivated for commercial purjioses in 
 
Geographical Distribution. 27 
 
 Tonquin, but only to a limited extent. It is also culti- 
 vated in the mountain districts of Ava and is indigenous 
 to the mountains separating Cliina from the Burmese terri- 
 tory. The plant is cultivated probably in all of the 
 eighteen provinces of China, and in many of the ad- 
 joining regions. But the supply for export is princi- 
 pally obtained from the coast provinces of Fo-Kien, 
 Che-Kiang and Kiang-See, these provinces extend from 
 the 23d to the 35th degree of north latitude in the 
 order named, and it is between these latitudes through- 
 out the Chinese Empire that the plant flourishes best 
 and most. But there is every reason to believe that tea 
 for commercial purposes is extensively produced north- 
 ward of 35° and even as high as 36° north latitude. 
 Che-Kiang produces the Green tea species, but the prin- 
 cipal district is in Kiang-Nan at the northwestern ex- 
 -tremity of a range of hills dividing that province from 
 Che-Kiang between the 30th and 31st degree of north 
 latitude. 
 
 The chief Black tea producing districts are in the pro- 
 vince of Fo-Kien on the South-east declivities of a range 
 of hills, dividing that province from Kiang-See, between 
 the 27 ° and 28 ° north latitude. It is spoken of by 
 Adams as early as 1598, as being cultivated all over the 
 Japanese Islands, which extend from 30 ° to 40 ° north 
 latitude, and since the opening of that country to com- 
 merce a large trade has grown up in the commodity. 
 It has been found growing in a truly wild state in the 
 mountainous regions of British India, particularly those 
 bordering on the Chinese province of Yunnan, and by 
 some authorities claimed as probable, though perhaps 
 not certain, that these mountainous districts are its 
 
28 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 original and native soil. It is now successfully cultiva- 
 ted in the hilly portions of Assam and on the Himalayas, 
 and with fair to indifferent success in the islands of Cey- 
 lon, Java, Singapore and Penang. 
 
 Tea having become so extensive an article of com- 
 merce and a source of such considerable revenue, num- 
 erous attempts have been made to introduce its cultiva- 
 tion into other countries of both the Eastern and West- 
 ern hemispheres, among them may be mentioned Eng- 
 land, the United States, Brazil and others of the South 
 American republics. 
 
 The soils and climates of these different countries so 
 widely varying, the results have been in accordance. As 
 far as can be ascertained, the first announcement of the 
 tea-plant being indigenous to Assam in British India, 
 was made in 1833, but owing to imperfect specimens 
 having been forwarded for inspection to botanists it was 
 not at the time considered a true species of tea. It was 
 fully demonstrated however in 1835, when the plant 
 with perfect leaves, flowers and seed was obtained, which 
 proved it to be a genuine tea; very closely allied if not 
 identical with the tea of China, the exclusive source of 
 all the varieties and shades of the teas of commerce, up to 
 and beyond that period. Since then it has transpired that 
 many other persons were aware of the existence of tea in 
 Assam. In consequence of replies to which inquiries had 
 been addressed to several gentleman, resident in the. vicin- 
 ity. Captains Jenkins and Charlton in May of 1834, wrote 
 that a species of tea was undeniably indigenous to As- 
 sam, and also that Mr. David Scott had in June, 1825, 
 sent leaves and seeds of the plant discovered originally 
 by Major Bruce to be examined by experts. The Bur- 
 
Geographical DisTRiButioisr. i^ 
 
 mese-and Chinese to whom the specimens were submit- 
 ted concurred in stating that this was genuine tea. Sub- 
 sequently a scientific deputation consisting of Dr. Wa\- 
 lieh, Messrs. Griifin and McClellan was appointed by the 
 English House of Commons for the purpose of investi- 
 gating and reporting on the plants found in Upper As- 
 sam. Their report being favorable, an experimental 
 plantation was established under government auspices, 
 and Major Bruce appointed superintendent, with results 
 not stated. 
 
 The discovery of the tea-plant in Assam led to the 
 supposition that its culture and manufacture could be 
 made a profitable industry in that country. Conse- 
 quently in 1839 a joint stock company with a large capi- 
 tal was founded in London, for the purposeof bringing the 
 " tea-forests " as they then were called into cultivation. In 
 1840 operations were commenced on a very extensive 
 scale, but extravagant expenses were incurred under the 
 idea that the profits of tea culture would prove fabulous. 
 This, together with mismanagement and ignorance of the 
 methods of preparation, rendered the attempts a dismal 
 failure. The company having by reckless management 
 wasted one million of dollars, was brought to the verge 
 of bankruptcy. Other efforts were made later and bet- 
 ter counsels and more economical management prevail- 
 ing, the success of the enterj^rise was subsequently estab- 
 lished : there being at the present time no less than 
 200 plantations devoted to tea culture in the region sur- 
 rounding Assam, some of them quite extensive both on 
 hills and plains. 
 
 The unfavorable reports made upon the earlier sam- 
 ples of teas manufactured from the Assam leaf, being at 
 
30 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 first rejected by the Londoa brokers, suggested tliepro- 
 priety of introducing the Chinese species for cultivation. 
 Accordingly tons of seed were secured from that country, 
 and large plantations were founded with the plants raised 
 from these importations. Thousands of plants were also 
 shipped from China for the same purpose, all of which 
 is-now "much regretted, as the true Assamese plant is 
 said to furnish a better class of teas when tended and 
 cared for properly. The Assamese plant is also hardier, 
 more prolific, and more amenable' to culture than are the 
 plants from the Chinese varieties. More care having 
 been bestowed on the cultivation and manipulation of the 
 leaf, together with a better knowledge of its treatment 
 during the various processes attending its manufacture, 
 and by the introduction of Chinese -skilled labor, teas 
 were produced equaling in quality those of China and 
 Japan, and eventually bringing higher prices in the Eng- ' 
 lish markets, than the finest Chinese and Japanese teas. 
 The success attained in the cultivation of the tea- 
 plant in Assam gave an impetus to the new industry on 
 the Himalaya slopes and other parts of British India. 
 The Himalaya mountains according to Dr. Royle, who 
 was specially appointed to report on their fitness, are 
 admirably adapted for the cultivation of the new plant,, 
 from the consideration of their similarity in latitude, 
 climate and vegetation with that of th^ China tea dis- 
 tricts; the different elevation of the hills allowing of 
 every variety of climate and vegetation, as well as the 
 natural sites being eminently suited to warrant its pro- 
 duction there. The quality of the teas already produced 
 on them can only be ascertained when skilled Chinese 
 have been introduced as in Assam, which will no doubt 
 
Geographical Distribution. 31 
 
 be done when the plantations are sufficiently established 
 to justify it. 
 
 Tea has been successfully and profitably produced in 
 the island of Ceylon after many repeated failures. 
 Meeting with much objection and prejudice as in Assam 
 at the outset, Ceylon teas now rank next to Indian. 
 It has been extensively and successfully cultivated upon 
 the hills in the island of Java, where it was originally 
 introduced from China by the Dutch ; the cultivation 
 and preparation being essentially the same as that prac- 
 ticed in China, — but black teas alone are prepared. Its 
 cultivation has not been a positive success in the islands 
 of Singapore and Penang, the teas produced being of 
 very indlfferenl, not to say inferior quality, owing it is 
 said in a great measure to a want of proper care in its 
 cultivation, and ignorance of proper methods of its prepa- 
 ration, as much as to the unfitness of the soil, and climatic 
 influences. Dr. Abel highly recommends the Cape of 
 Good Hope as furnishing a fitting soil and climate for 
 the beneficial production of tea. Efforts have been 
 jnade to grow tea in the island of Samt Helena, and it 
 was found to flourish in the higher parts of the island, 
 but whether in sufficient quantity or quality for profit 
 or export is not stated. 
 
 About 1850 the plant was introduced into the warmer 
 parts of Brazil, and some tea ^yas produced in the 
 vicinity of Rio de Janeiro. It was found to flourish 
 luxuriantly adjacent to New Friberg and Santos in the 
 province of San Paulo, attaining the proportions of a 
 third class tea with a rich foliage, but was found for 
 practical purposes to be too astringent and bitter, being 
 almost totally devoid of the aroma and flavor so much 
 
32 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 prized in China tea. The cost of manufacture being so 
 much more expensive, it was found unprofitable for cul- 
 ture, and hence it is inferred that with everything else 
 in its favor the tea produced in Brazil will never be 
 able to compete with that of China, even for home con- 
 sumption. Still, after the repeated failures and successes 
 made with the introduction of the plant in India much 
 may still be achieved in Brazil, by perseverance and 
 an intelligent management of its cultivation and 
 preparation. 
 
 As_iar back as 1772 Lettson states, that a few green 
 tea plants had been introduced into England, as an 
 experiment, and that a large specimen was then flourish- 
 ing at the Kew Gardens, but the seeds never germinated 
 and the effort ended in failure. 
 
 The Free Economic Society of St. Petersburg, warmly 
 advocates the cultivation of the tea-plant in the Caucasus. 
 At Soukhoun, it appears, some tea is already raised in the 
 open air, notably in the Botanic garden, and in a garden 
 belonging to a private gentleman. The experiment so far 
 has proved successful, and the Economic Society thinks 
 that in time Russia should compete with China and India 
 in supplying the western nations with tea. In the west- 
 ern parts of Trans-Caucasia, the climate is said to resem- 
 ble very much that of China. 
 
 With regard to the attempts to introduce the tea plant 
 into the United States, the earliest notice which comes 
 under observation is that contained in the following ex- 
 tract taken from the Southern Agriculturist, published 
 in 1828. 
 
 " I find that the tea-tree gi-ows perfectly well in the 
 open air near Charleston, where it has been raised for 
 
Geographical Distribution. 33 
 
 the last fifteen years at M. Noisette's nursery. Tea, as 
 exported from China, would cost too much in the prepa- 
 ration, for each leaf goes through a particular process 
 there. But, as this is probably done with a view of 
 economizing room and preserving its freshness in the 
 long sea voyage to which it is exposed, we might, in 
 raising it as a crop, use it and export it, at least north- 
 wardly, dried in the same manner as senna or hops." 
 
 Another historical effort to introduce tea culture into 
 this country was made about 1848, by Dr. Junius Smith 
 at Greenville, South Carolina; but although commenced 
 with some degree of enthusiasm, the plantation never 
 was increased to any extent; neither was it brought to a 
 condition so far as can be ascertained to warrant the 
 formation of any reliable opinion as to the practicability 
 of the culture of tea in this country as an industry. 
 Nevertheless, the circumstances of its failure are often 
 quoted as a proof that tea cannot be grown for com- 
 mercial purposes, profitably, in the United States, while 
 the truth is that as a test of the practicability of the 
 cultivation of tea for purposes mentioned above, the 
 attempt was of no value whatever, and never was so con- 
 sidered by those conversant with its management. 
 
 During the year 1858 the U. S. Government, through 
 the Commissioner of Patents, ordered and received about 
 10,000 tea-plants from China. These were transported 
 in Wardian cases, the cases being filled with soil, in 
 which the seeds were sown just previous to shipment. 
 These vegetated during the voyage, and the plants 
 averaged 18 inches in height when taken out of the 
 cases at Washington. 
 
 These plants were immediately placed under propa- 
 
i4 A Cuf OF Tea. 
 
 gation, and in a short time the stock was increased to 
 30,000 plants, which were distributed throughout the 
 Southern States. The propagation and dissemination of 
 tea-plants formed a prominent feature iu the operations 
 of the Agricultural Division of the Patent OfBce, until 
 the commencement of the war, which put a stop to such 
 communications for several years. 
 
 The Department of Agriculture was organized during 
 the year 1862. For some time after its establishment but 
 little attention was given to the propagation of the tea- 
 plant, still it was at no time entirely abandoned. It 
 was fully understood that so far as the growth of the 
 plant was concerned, it could be successfully cultivated 
 over a large extent of country, but sharing in the belief 
 that the amount of manual labor required in its manipu- 
 lation and preparation was so great as to preclude the idea 
 that we could compete with the low-waged Asiatics, no 
 special efforts were made to disseminate the plants, or to 
 increase them further than to supply such applicants as 
 desired to make experimental tests. 
 
 Meanwhile the progress of tea culture in British India 
 was watched with interest, the successful results of im- 
 proved methods of manufacture, and the introduction of 
 the various labor-saving processes which were being 
 made from time to time by the planters in that country, 
 suggested the probability that the production of tea 
 might be made a profitable industry in some sections of 
 this country, where labor-saving appliances usually fol- 
 low closely upon the knowledge of their necessity. 
 
 Subsequently fresh supplies of seed were imported 
 from Japan, which resulted in enabling the Department 
 to disseminate many thousands of plants. These efforts 
 
Geographical Distribution. 35 
 
 were materially enhanced, when about 1867, it was 
 found that an abundance of tea seeds could be procured 
 in some of the Southern States, from the plants which 
 had been distributed from the imjiortation of 1858. 
 
 For several years after 1868 the Department distribu- 
 ted annually from five to ten thousand plants, reaching 
 in 1876 to over 20,000 plants. By this means its was 
 expected to popularize the culture of tea as a domestic 
 product, with the hope that public interest would in 
 time be directed to its cultivation as an article of com- 
 mercial value. 
 
 Encouraged by reports of successful culture, which 
 were in many instances supplemented by samples of 
 manufactured tea of undoubted good quality, more de- 
 cided and energetic efforts were made towards establish- 
 ing this industry, and during the past few years more 
 than 100,000 tea-plants have been distributed, and the 
 Department has under propagation at [the present time 
 at least 12,000 plants which will soon be ready for dis- 
 semination in localities where they are most likely to 
 succeed. 
 
 The plant barely survives the wiuter north of Wash- 
 ington, but a little south of that city it has been found 
 to thrive. It bears fruit abundantly on the Pacific 
 Coast, where the climate and soil are especially favorable 
 to broad-leaved evergreens, both native and exotic, and 
 will flourish much further north there than at the east. 
 
Chapter III. 
 
 BOTANICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND FORM. 
 
 There are few subjects in tlic vegetable Kingdom that 
 have attracted such a large share of public notice as the 
 Tea-plant, much error for a long time existing regarding 
 its botanical classification. 
 
 The jealousy of the Chinese government in former 
 times, prevented foreigners from visiting the districts 
 where te,a was cultivated ; while the information derived 
 from the Chinese merchants at the shipping ports, scanty 
 as it was, could not be depended on, hence, we find so 
 much contradiction and misunderstanding existing among 
 early writers upon the subject. 
 
 Before proceeding to discuss the question of the species 
 which yield the teas of commerce, it may be well to no- 
 tice those which are usually described as distinct species 
 in systematic works. Tea is differently named in dif- 
 ferent parts of China, in some districts it is called Tcha 
 or cha, in others Tha or the, in Canton Tsclia or tschai, 
 and finally by the inhabitants of Fo-Kien from whom 
 the first cargoes are supposed to have been obtained, Tia, 
 so pronounced in their patois as to give rise to the 
 
Botanical Characteristics and Porm. 37 
 
 European name Tea. In Japan it is called Tsji and in 
 Persian works in use in India, Cha-Kutai (Tea of China.) 
 
 By botanists Thea, this last term has been adopted by 
 Linnseus for tlie sake of its Greek orthography, being 
 exactly that of @iz — a goddess, a coincidence doubtless 
 quite acceptable to those who use and enjoy the bever- 
 age as it deserves. 
 
 The species of the genus Thea are few in number, 
 some botanists being of the opinion that even these 
 varieties are of a single species — the Camillia — and by 
 them classed as Thea Camillia. Other authorities assert- 
 ing that no relation whatever exists between these two 
 plants, and maintain that the Thea and Camillia plants 
 are widely different and of a distinct species. 
 
 Though the Camillia bears the same name among the 
 Chinese as the Tea-plant and possesses many of its botani- 
 cal characteristics, distinctions have been made between 
 them by some eminent botanists, who hold that they dif- 
 fer materially, and are mostly agreed in the statement 
 that the tea-plant is distinguished from the Camillia 
 proper, in having longer, narrower, thinner, more ser- 
 rated and less shiny leaves, and that a marked differ- 
 ence is also noticeable in the form and contents of the 
 fruit or pod. 
 
 Davis argues that they constitute two genera very 
 closely allied, in which the distinctions consist princi- 
 pally in the fruit. The seed vessel of the' Thea accord- 
 ing to him, being a three lobed capsule, with the lobes 
 strongly marked, each of them being the size of a black 
 currant, and containing a single round seed. When ripe, 
 each of the three lobes bursts vertically in the middle, ex- 
 posing the seed, while the capsule of the Camillia is tri- 
 
3S A Cup OF Tea. 
 
 angular in shape much larger in size, and though three 
 celled it is but single seeded^ 
 
 Bentham and Hooker who have thoroughly revised 
 the genera plantatum say they can find no good reasons 
 by which they can separate the tea-shrub as a genus dis- 
 tinct from the Camillia, and so class the plant as Thea 
 Calnillia; while Cambessedes contends that they are 
 widely separated by several intervening genera, the 
 distinction being principally in the form of the fruit or 
 pod. Griffin who is well qualified to form a correct 
 opinion, states that from an examination of the Assa- 
 mese tea-plant and two species of the Camillia taken 
 from the Kyosa hills, he found no difference whatever. 
 The dehiscence he says in both plants is of the same 
 nature, and the noticeable difference really existing is 
 simply of a specific value. The fruit of the tea-shrub 
 being three celled and three seeded, while that of the Ca- 
 millia is triangular in shape and single seeded. 
 
 Linnaeus while recognizing the tea-plant as belonging 
 to the same family as the Camillia, has Latinized its 
 Chinese name and classes it botanically as Thea Sinensis, 
 (Chinese Tea;) he divides the genus into two species 
 viz, Thea Viridis or Green tea-plant, and IViea Bohea or 
 Black te^-plant. 
 
 The tea-plant may then be definitely classified botani- 
 cally as Thea Sinensis, having but one genus, and divi- 
 ded into two species, Thea Viridis and T'/iea Bohea. 
 These specific names have no relation whatever to the 
 varieties known to commerce as Green and Black teas. 
 These two species are separated by botanists, and distin- 
 guished from each other by a marked difference in the size, 
 shape and texture of the leaves, and by other peculiarities. 
 
GEMB8B WSA' 
 
4o A Cup of 'JTea. 
 
 Or Chinese tea plant is a polyandrous evergreen shrub, 
 of the same family as the CamiUia, to one species of 
 which- {Camillia Sasanqua) it bears a close resemblance. 
 The stem is bushy, with numerous and very -leafy 
 branches ; the leaves are alternate, large, elliptical and 
 obtusely serrated, varied and placed in short channeled 
 foot stalks. The calyx is small, smooth and divided 
 into five obtuse segments or sepals. The flowers are 
 white, axilary and slightly fragrant, often two to three 
 together on separate pedecils ; the corolla has from 5 to 
 9 petals cohering at the base. The filaments are short, 
 numerous and inserted at the base of the corolla. The 
 anthers are large and yellow, the style trifid and the 
 capsules 3 celled and 3 seeded. 
 
 In a wild state the plant is large and bushy, attaining 
 a height of from' ten to fifteen feet, often assuming the 
 proportions of a small tree ; in a state of cultivation, 
 its growth is limited by frequent prunings to from 3 
 to 6 feet. Like all others plants long in a state of culti- 
 vation it has produced marked varieties, which have 
 been erratically described as distinct species; it has two 
 varieties. 
 
Botanical Characteristics and Form. 4i 
 
 -Gunpowder. & — Young Hyson, c — Imperial. (? — Hyson, e — Twankey. 
 
 W'hss Y if Mis, J 
 
 Or Green tea species, a large, strong growing almost 
 hardy plant with spreading branches, leaves 3 to 5 
 inches long, tliin and almost membraneous, broadly lan- 
 ceolate, wavy with large, irregular serratures and light 
 green in color. The flower is large, white, solitary and 
 mostly confined to the upper axil ; having 5 sepals and 
 from 5 to 7 petals, fruit nodding, and" thriving in the 
 open air without protection during the winter. This 
 species is found both in China and Japan, and is un- 
 doubtedly the variety yielding the Green teas of 
 commerce. 
 
42 
 
 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 a— Firsts. 6— Seconds, c— Thirds, d— Fourths. 
 
 Or Black tea species is a much smaller plant than the 
 above, its branches are stiff and straight and stems erect. 
 The leaves are not more than half to two-thirds the 
 size of the green, elliptical, oblong, perfectly flat and 
 coriaceous, with small even serratures, dark green in 
 color and more numerous. The flowers number 2 to 3 
 are small, and situated at the axils of the leaves, and 
 having from 5 to 7 petals and sepals, bloom later in the 
 season and have a slight fragrance. This is much ten- 
 derer' than the Green, will not stand as cold a climate, 
 and yields the variety known to commerce a? Black Tea. 
 
Botanical Characteristics and Form. 43 
 
 As in the case of its botanical classification, con- 
 siderable mystery and confusion existed until recently 
 on the species producing the teas of commerce. Some 
 authorities claiming that the varieties known to trade as 
 Green and Black tea were produced at pleasure from one 
 and the same species, and that the difference in color 
 and style arose from a difference in soil, climate and 
 method of curing. On the other hand it was held that 
 the Thea Viridis species exclusively yielded the leaves 
 from which the Green teas of commerce were manufac- 
 tured, and that the Black teas in like manner were 
 alone produced from the Thea Boliea or Black tea species. 
 
 The eminent botanical traveller Mr. Robert Fortune 
 has satisfactorily and definitely set this much vexed 
 question at rest by personally investigating the subject 
 on the spot. He found that in the districts of Woo-e- 
 Shan, where Black teas alone are prepared, the species 
 known as Thea Bohea only is grown. Whilst in the 
 province of Che-Kiang, where Green teas only were 
 exclusivly made, that the Thea Viridis plant aloue was 
 cultivated. But that the Green and Black teas of com- 
 merce may be prepared at will from either or both spe- 
 cies he found to be the case in the Fo-Kien district where 
 the Black tea-plant alone is grown, but that both varieties 
 were produced therefrom. Chinese authorities them- 
 selves acknowl'.'dge that in some districts. Green and 
 Black teas may be prepared at pleasure from either species. 
 
 It was also erroneously supposed that the difference 
 in color of the Green and Black teas of commerce, was 
 owing entirely to a disparity of soil, climate, age or 
 method of preparation.; it was also believed that Black 
 teas were produced exclusively from plants grown in 
 
44 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 hilly or mountainous situations, and Green prepared 
 from plants cultivated on the plains or lowlands, in a 
 soil enriched by manure, and that the kinds known to 
 commerce as Green and Black teas were prepared from 
 a single species. 
 
 Later and more careful investigation disprove these 
 opinions, yet while it is admitted, even by the Chinese 
 themselves, that both varieties may be prepared at pleas- 
 ure from either species, certain it is that the greater 
 proportion of preparation of the respective kinds is 
 carried on in widely separated districts of the empire, 
 from different varieties of the plant, and different methods 
 pursued in the curing of them from the first stage. 
 
INlBIANi WBA'PIiANT', 
 
 a — Caper. 6 — Flowing Pekoe, c — Orange Pekoe, d — Pekoe, 
 f— Souchohg. /—Congou, jf— Pouohong. 
 
46 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Or Indian tea plant which has lately attracted so 
 much attention, partakes of the characteristics of both 
 of the foregoing varieties ; some botanists who consider 
 that the Assam plant is a distinct species have given it 
 the name of Thea Assamica, in contradistinction to the 
 Chinese plant, Thea Sinensis. 
 
 There are others again, who recognize but one genus 
 and contend that the Assam plant is but a wild type of 
 the Asiatic tea plant, and that all teas under cultivation 
 are but varieties of the same species caused by climate, 
 soil and special culture. 
 
 The infloressence of the Assamese plant varies from 
 that of the Chinese, but perhaps its usual state is to 
 have the flowers solitary situated in the axils of the 
 leaves, the number ranging from one to five. 
 
 Planters distinguish many points of difference be- 
 tween the Chinese and Assamese tea plants, the leaf of 
 the latter when full grown measures from five to seven 
 inches, while the leaf of the former seldom exceeds four; 
 again the leaf of the Assamese plant does not harden as 
 quickly during growth as that of the Chinese, which is 
 an important consideration in picking. It is also more 
 prolific and matures much quicker, rendering it more 
 profitable, as it affords a greater number of pickings 
 during the growing season. They also contend that the 
 Chinese species is net as hardy and will not succeed at 
 as high an elevation, and is more prone to produce seed 
 which is injurious to its value as a leaf producer, and 
 finally that the teas prepared from the Assamese plant are 
 superior to those manufactured from the Chinese variety. 
 
Botanical Characteristics and Form. 47 
 
 Many of the Indian plantations are composed of 
 crosses between the Chinese and Assamese plants, but it 
 is conceded that the nearer each plant approaches to the 
 indigenous, the higher its excellence. Many of the 
 Indian planters maintain that it would have been better 
 if China seed had never been introduced into the locality. 
 In its geographical distribution, so far as latitude is con- 
 cerned the Assamese tea plant approximates to the Bohea 
 or Black tea species of China, yet in its botanical char- 
 acteristics and in the general appearance of the plant as 
 well as in the size and texture of the leaves, it approaches 
 nearer to the Viridis or Green tea species. 
 
 Othgr Ymffieties., 
 
 Two other varieties of the tea-plant are described by 
 Soureiro, but are entirely unknown to commerce, they 
 are classified botanically by him as 
 
 Or " Cochin China tea." It is found in a wild state 
 in the north of Cochin China, where it is also considerably 
 cultivated, being used medicinally by the natives as a 
 diaphoretic, and 
 
 Or " Oil tea," found wild in the fields in the vicinity 
 of Canton, and so named from the seeds yielding a large 
 quantity of oil which is used for illuminating purposes 
 and as an article of diet. Another species known as 
 
 Bam FuUapi 
 
 or "Jungle tea " is found on the Naga range towards 
 the eastern extremity of the valley of Assam ; it is well 
 
48~ A Cup of Tea. 
 
 known to the Assamese and Singphos, being used by 
 them as a medicine. 
 
 Still another variety not however described was dis- 
 covered by Dr. Wallich growing in the neighborhood 
 of Tingree. 
 
 Two doubtful species known as " Can-Krosa " and 
 " Candata," are to be found in the mountains of Mum- 
 poore, Pundua, Silhet, and the valley of Nepaul. 
 
 SUBSTITUTES IN USE FOR TEA IN 
 DIFFERENT COUNTRIES. 
 
 Previous to the 17th century, it had long been the 
 custom in European countries to make hot infusions 
 of the leaves of various plants as a beverage, notably 
 that of the salvia (aage) which had at one time a high 
 reputation as a "Panacea," so much so that it was greatly 
 extolled by the Souliemau school of physic, as a powerful 
 preservative of health. As it is the custom in many 
 countries and among widely separated people at the 
 present time, where it is difficult or impossible to obtain 
 the Chinese leaves,- to use those of some other plants as 
 substitutes, the active principle of which in many in- 
 stances is analagous and in some cases identical with 
 that of tea. 
 
 These substitutes are of two kinds, (1) the leaves of 
 plants that contain theine and^ consequently produce the 
 same stimulating effects, and (2) leaves which are desti- 
 tute of that principle, but which possess some other 
 stimulating properties; among the former is coffee and 
 
 next to that is 
 
 Pmsmguaijma Tern 
 
 Or " Male" one of the most important beverages so 
 prepared : so closely does it approach the tea of China 
 
Botanical Characteristics and Form. 49 
 
 in its effects, that by some writers it is claimed to be 
 a species of the Chinese shrub, yielding a liquor similar 
 in many respects. Upwards of forty million pounds of 
 the leaves of this plant are consumed annually by the 
 natives of Paraguay and other South American countries. 
 
 In the interior of Brazil, the inhabitants use the pre- 
 pared seeds of the Guarana as a tea. So rich is this 
 plant in theine (the active principle of tea) that it has 
 lately been used for the purpose of obtaining that prin- • 
 ciple, and has been introduced into Continental Europe 
 as a medicine. 
 
 Pewmnsm mB§ Boliwtaa Weaa, 
 
 The leaves of the Coca are used in Peru afid Bolivia. 
 They possess somewhat similar properties to tea, and 
 though generally chewed, are often prepared as a tea by 
 the natives of those countries. 
 
 G'htltsa Wem 
 is prepared from the leaves of the Ugni plant, and the 
 raw leaves of the Coffee tree are infused and used ex- 
 tensively as a tea in many of the West India islands. 
 
 WsiMiim^ f'ea 
 
 is made from a decoction of the leaves of the Pimento, 
 and is in common use in that island. 
 
 Memomm Wes 
 is made from an infusion of the leaves of the Chenopo- 
 dium plant, and used as a remedy for asthma and bron- 
 chial affections. 
 
So A Cup of Tea. 
 
 New ^mssj Wes 
 called by the Indians " Pong-pong tea," is made from the 
 leaves of the Ceanothus, and was at one time used exten- 
 sively as a remedy in the Carolinas, Virginias and other 
 southern states. 
 
 is prepared from the leaves of the Buodfolium, and used 
 as a beverage by the inhabitants of that country. 
 
 of Arabia and Abyssinia is prepared from the leaves and 
 stems of that plant, and possesses in an eminent degree 
 the active principle of the Chinese plant. The 
 
 Mala Simtt, 
 the active principle of which has recently been ascer- 
 tained to be thdne, is extensively used in the region of 
 Central Africa known as Soudan, and on the West coast. 
 
 is prepared by the natives of that country, from the leaves 
 of the Saxifraga plant. 
 
 ^ppalaGhtaa Tea 
 
 is made from an infusion of the leaves of the Punos plan 
 and drunk as a beverage. The celebrated 
 
 Faham T'aa 
 of the Mauritius and many of the foregoing plants de- 
 scribed should be regarded in the light of medicines 
 rather than regular beverages, although they are gener- 
 ally classed with the substitutes for Chinese tea. 
 
Botanical Characteristics and Form. 51 
 
 That the characteristic element Theine should be pres- 
 ent not only in the tea-plant of China, but in so many 
 various plants so unlike in appearance, so remote from 
 each other in situation, and from which millions of 
 people in all parts of the earth derive a refreshing and 
 exhilerating beverage, enjoyed alike by persons of all 
 degrees of civilization and culture, is a striking and beau- 
 tiful fact in nature. Under such a fact there may \vell 
 be more significance than science has yet elicited. 
 
Chaptee IV. 
 
 CULTIVATION AND PREPAEATION. 
 
 SOIL. 
 
 The soil of the tea lands of Chijia varies very con- 
 siderably, even in districts which are alike famous for 
 the growth of the plant. The slopes of hillsides being 
 preferred at an elevation, depending upon the climate. It 
 was even said to succeed best on the sides of mountains 
 where there was a small accumulation of vegetable soil. 
 
 Mr. Ball long a resident of China, as inspector of tea 
 for the East India Company, and to whom we owe the 
 most siitisfac'tory account of the cultivation of the tea- 
 plant which has so far been given to the public, sums up 
 an elaborate examination of this p'rt of the subject by 
 stating that, " whilst it delights in hilly sites of moder- 
 ate elevation, the plant may be successfully cultivated 
 along the banks of rivers in light stony soil, subject to 
 occasional inundations, or in a soil rich and somewhat 
 compact, retentive of moisture, though of easy filtra- 
 tion : sufficiently porous to be permeable to the delicate 
 fibres of the roots, and sufficiently tenacious to supply a 
 healthy moisture, without being liable to be dried up and 
 burnt during the alternations of sun and rain." 
 
Cultivation and Preparation. 53 
 
 The soil of the Bohea tea hills in the Woo-e-shan dis- 
 trict is described by Mr. Robert Fortune, as bsing 
 composed of a brownish-yellow clay containing a con- 
 siderable portion of vegetable matter, mixed with frag- 
 ments of clay and slate of a sandstone conglomerate formed 
 princijDally of angular masses of quartz, held together 
 by a calcareous basis of granite and of fine granular 
 sandstone. It has always a very considerable portion of 
 vegetable matter in those districts which are most pro- 
 ductive, and in which the plant thrives best. 
 
 In the gardens of the plains the soil is darker and 
 often of a reddish color, containing a still greater pro- 
 portion of vegetable matter, the soil being uniformly 
 well underdrained, owing to the natural declivity of the 
 slopes or by being a considerable height above the 
 watercourses. In some of these localities the soil is en- 
 riched with litter, sewage and other fertilizers. 
 
 Some soils in which the tea-plant is cultivated in 
 China, yielded in an analysis of 200 parts : 
 
 Silex, . . _ . 135 
 
 Alumina, - - - - 36 
 
 Carbonate of Magnesia, - - - 6 
 
 " of lime, 4 
 
 Oxide of iron, - - - - 13 
 
 Roots and fibres of plants, .- - - 2 
 
 Water of absorption, ----- 4 
 
 Total, 200 
 
 Seven other specimens of earth analyzed by Mr. 
 Farraday from the districts of Macao, Fo-Kien and 
 Bohea gave the. following results in parts : 
 
54 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Constituents, Macao, Fo-Kieu, Bohea, 
 
 Sand, 46.1 17.70 40.61 
 
 Ferruginous clay &c, 53.9 56.53 59.39 
 
 Stony fragments, none • 25.77 none 
 
 (but much mica.) 
 
 Total, 100 100 100 
 
 Dr. Abel observed it growing and flourishing in 
 India, elevated above the plains in situations where the 
 soil was a disintegration of sandstone or granite. The 
 teas so grown being found to be superior to those raised 
 on the plains or lowlands, and adds that the debris of 
 granitic rocks would yield a fitting soil, and hence con- 
 cludes that the tea-plant could be successfully grown at 
 the Cape of Good Hope, the soil of that region being 
 admirably adapted for the purpose. 
 
 In an analysis of the earth of a Japanese tea planta- 
 tion, made by Esenbeck and Marquart, 100 grains was 
 found to contain of 
 
 Siliceous earth, _ _ _ - - 53 
 
 Clay, - - - 22 
 
 Oxide of iron, - - - 
 
 
 9 
 
 " " manganese and magnesia, - 
 
 - 
 
 - 01 
 
 Gypsum, - _ . _ _ 
 
 - 
 
 - oj 
 
 Water, 
 
 - 
 
 14 
 
 Humus, 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 Phosphoric acid, - - - 
 
 - 
 
 - traces. 
 
 Total, 100 
 
 In appearance this earth is described as resembling 
 slate atmospherically dissolved. The gypsum and phos- 
 phoric acid being due to the manure. Fish manure is ex- 
 
Cultivation and Preparation. 55 
 
 tensively used in the cultivation of the tea-plant in 
 Japan, and to that cause is attributed the " fishy flavor " 
 so often found in Japan teas. 
 
 An analysis of the soil of the tea plantations in the 
 Assam district of India by Mr. Peddington, is reported 
 as follows : 
 
 Silex, - - _ _ - - 85.40 
 
 Carbonate of iron, - - - - 3.50 
 
 Water, - - - - - - 2.45 
 
 Vegetable matter, _ _ _ _ _ 1 
 
 The accompanying assertion that the tea soils of China 
 and India are " exactly alike," is insufBciently suppor- 
 ted by the evidence adduced ; Indian teas being found 
 to thrive best in a rich soil of decayed vegetation, with 
 a humid atmosphere and considerable heat. 
 
 According to Mr. Saunders, Superintendent of the 
 Department of Agriculture at Washington, D. C, " the 
 best soil for the cultivation of the tea-plant is a deep, 
 rich loam such as is found in our best garden soils. He 
 says that he is " convinced that the soil cannot be too 
 rich for the profitable cultivation of tea provided that 
 it is properly underdrained," adding "that every attempt 
 to grow it on poor soil has resulted iri absolute failure 
 so far as profit is concerned." 
 
 Mr. Cunningham who was connected witii the manu- 
 facture of teas in Chusan, collected specimens on the tops 
 of mountains where it thrived along with pines ; his 
 specimens are still preserved in the British Museum. 
 Mr. Fortune found the Assam soil to contain on analysis 
 clay, sand and vegetable matter, resting upon a gravelly 
 subsoil, composed of limestone, sandstone, clay, slate and 
 quartz rock. 
 
$6 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 With regard to climatic essentials the tea-plant is to 
 be classed as subtropical, but endures a tropical climate 
 well, and can also accommodate itself to cold winters. It 
 has been found to withstand a zero cold without material 
 injury, but is most profitably cultivated in climates where 
 the thermometer seldom shows more than 6 to 8 degrees 
 below the freezing point. 
 
 Teas are however produced in much cooler climates, 
 but the growing season has been found to be too short for 
 growing many profitable crops. In few of the countries 
 into which the plant has been introduced, is the flavor 
 of the cured leaf the same as that of the Chinese leaf. 
 Although the plant is grown all over the Chinese Em- 
 pire to a greater or less extent, its cultivation for export 
 is chiefly confined to the region between the 24° and 
 35° north latitude, and between the 115° and 122° 
 east longitude. Yet it is often found to flourish outside 
 these limits, even as far north as 36 ° north latitude. 
 In the Japanese Islands its cultivation extends from the 
 30 ° to 41 ° of north latitude, and between 130 ° and 145 ° 
 east longitude. The climate varies no doubt to a con- 
 siderable extent in the different parts of China, where 
 the plant is cultivated, being warm in the southern and 
 cold in the northern provinces. 
 
 Snow is said to be on the ground for days together in 
 the Green tea producing districts, yet, though it has been 
 proved by experiment that the Green variety will bear a 
 greater degree of cold than the Black, Mr. Gallery 
 states, that in the province of Fo-Kien where Black 
 teas only are produced, he has walked on snow in winter 
 in the midst of tea-plants. 
 
Cultivation and t*REfAEATioM. 5? 
 
 A deputation sent by the British Government to India, 
 to examine into its culture, found it to flourish in the 
 valley of Assam where the atmosphere was moist. 
 
 In the report forwarded by the Indian government, 
 to the Agricultural Society of Calcutta, we find that at 
 elevations of 6,000 and 6,000 feet there are to be found 
 hundreds of strong, healthy tea-plants and seedlings. 
 At Alamaroh, at an elevation of 5,000 feet, there are 
 two gardens of 3 and 11 acres in extent, planted with 
 1500 shrubs yielding leaves, 700 layers and 20,000 
 seedlings. 
 
 In the Himalayas, according to Dr. Royle, whfere the 
 elevations allow of every variety of climate, and the 
 geographical distribution of the plant is sufficiently 
 extended, the natural sites are sufficiently varied to admit 
 of its profitable cultivation. The plant has been suc- 
 cessfully cultivated at an elevation 4,784 feet above the 
 bay of Bengal. 
 
 The correctness of his opinion has been clearly proved 
 by the late reports from these sections of the complete 
 success of the tea plastations established in the Kumaon 
 and Gurwahl districts of these mountains, from seeds 
 and plants obtained from China. The several efforts to 
 introduce it into other climates, notably, those of Rio de 
 Janeiro and warmer parts of Brazil, the hilly parts of 
 Java, Singapore and Penang, have met with but a 
 moderate and in some instances indifferent success, as 
 shown in a previous chapter. 
 
 Dr. Abel maintains that the Cape of Good Hope 
 would afford a fitting climate for the profitable cultiva- 
 tion of the tea plant. There is nothing improbable ' in 
 a plant that is so widely diffusecl from north to south 
 
S8 A CUP OF T£A. 
 
 beiilg so grown, still it is an established fact that the 
 finest varieties of tea are cultivated in the warmer dis- 
 tricts, and in sites exposed to light and air. 
 
 But by far the most important climatic consideration 
 is the amount of rainfall: a dry climate being altogether 
 unfit for tea cultivation, a hot damp climate is best. 
 The rainfall in the most profitable tea districts of India 
 is from 80 to 100 inches per annum, and the more that 
 falls in the Spring months the better for the tea crop. 
 It is doubtful whether tea can be profitably grown in 
 this country according to Mr. Saunders, in any district 
 where the rainfall is below 60 inches per annum, and 
 that too must be pretty equally diffused over the Spring 
 and Summer months. Where irrigation can be sys- 
 tematically introduced, the rainfall is of less importance. 
 Chinese tea growers claim that teas grown in sunny 
 tracts, are invariably the best. 
 
 PLANTING. 
 
 For the profitable cultivation of the tea plant it is not 
 only requisite to have a suitable soil and climate but 
 also cheap and abundant labor. Tn China tea is generally 
 cultivated by small proprietors, each family producing 
 only what they can, as in the production of silk. There 
 are but few large growers who cultivate extensive 
 gardens, the largest single farm seldom producing 
 more than 600 chests, or about 25,000 pounds. The 
 growers usually cure the leaves themselves, but often 
 sell them in a raw state, simply sorting them as to 
 quality. 
 
 The tea plant is\ propagated in China, from seeds 
 collected in October after the last crop is gathered, and 
 placed in sand or earth to keep them fresh through the 
 
Cultivation anc Preparation. 59 
 
 winter. The seeds are sown early the following spring, 
 sometimes in the rows in which they are to grow, and 
 sometimes in a corner of the tea plantation from whence 
 they are transplanted, after they begin to sprout. 
 
 In sowing the seeds says the Kain Fang-Pit, quoted 
 by Mr. Ball, the Chinese use paddy (rice), husks or 
 parched earth. From six to ten seeds are placed in 
 each hole about an inch below the surface of the ground, 
 in rows usually about four feet apart. In growing the 
 seeds are very apt to spoil, and scarcely one in five will 
 germinate. 
 
 When the seeds begin to grow the weeds are pulled 
 not raked up. After they have attained a height of about 
 18 inches the leading shoots are pinched so as to induce 
 them to become bushy. If the weather is severe the 
 young plants are protected from the cold by wrappings 
 of straw, but if the season is dry they are saturated with 
 rice water, that is water in whicli rice has been steeped 
 or washed; they are often manured with manure in a 
 liquid state, or with the dung of silkworms, though 
 one Chinese authority states that the tea which is not 
 manured is always the most fragrant. The manuring 
 process seems to be more in use in the Green than in the 
 Black tea districts. Water lodging at the roots of the 
 plants will inevitably destroy them. 
 
 The young plants are generally allowed to grow until 
 they become pretty well established, producing strong 
 and vigorous shoots before the first gathering of their 
 leaves. 
 
 The plants rise up in a cluster when the rain comes 
 on and require little further care thereafter, excej)t that 
 of removing the weeds, until they are three years old. 
 
6o A Cup of Tea. 
 
 when they yield their first crop, and then are ready for 
 picking. 
 
 A plant of this age will yield only about eight ounces 
 of raw leaves, which wlien cured is reduced to two 
 ounces, equivalent to about 80 fts, or one chest per 
 acre. A plant of five years growth will yield ten times 
 that amountj but the quality will not be near as fine. 
 
 In some districts the shrubs are allowed to grow 
 unrestrained, while in others the plants which would 
 naturally develop to trees are regularly pruned, to keep 
 them low and for the convenience of picking. In six 
 or seven years when the plants attain their full height 
 they begin to- deteriorate and bear fewer leaves. They 
 are then trimmed down close in order that the numerous 
 young shoots which then spring out may afford a more 
 abundant supply of leaves, and new crops, but of inferior 
 quality, are produced annually until the tenth or twelfth 
 year. At this period the plants attain their maximum 
 growth after which they are dug out and replaced by 
 seedlings. 
 
 From this it will be seen that tea plants produce crops 
 uninterruptedly annually for a period ranging from three 
 to~'nine years, yielding three, and in some districts as 
 many as four crops in a single year. 
 
 The leaves of the first crop are small and of a delicate 
 green color, very aromatic in smell, contain no fibre 
 and are sweet in flavor. 
 
 The leaves of the second are larger, dull green in color, 
 and possess less valuable qualities. 
 
 The third are still larger, coarse, of a dark green 
 color, and of still less value. 
 
CULtlVATlON AKD pREPARA'^IO^f. 
 
 PICKING. 
 
 The first gathering of the expanded leaves begins in 
 the more fertile districts of China about the beginning of 
 Miirch, while in others it does not occur until the latter 
 end of April, or early in May. 
 
 The quality of the tea depends largely upon the period 
 of its picking. The finest crops may, if the proper time 
 for gathering be neglected, be changed Jo an inferior 
 sort in a single night. 
 
 The " first picking," which composes the finest kinds 
 of tea, consists of the young and tender leaves, and buds 
 just beginning to expand, and is known to commerce as 
 " First chop," or crop. 
 
 The younger the leaves the more delicate and fragrant 
 their flavor. The leaves of this gathering are selected 
 with the greatest care, being picked with the utmost 
 cautiott. Such are the pains taken to insure the excel- 
 lence of this crop that for two or three weeks before 
 the harvest commences, the pickers who are trained to 
 the business from a very early age are prohibited from 
 eating fish or other kinds of food considered unclean, lest 
 by their breath they should contaminate the leaves. 
 They are also compelled to take a bath two or three 
 times daily, and are not allowed to pick the leaves with 
 their hands uncovered, but are compelled to wear gloves. 
 
 The pickers who are as a rule women and children, 
 carry baskets strung by cords around their necks, so as 
 to leave both hands at liberty. They hold the shoot 
 with one hand while they pluck the young leaves and 
 expanding buds with the other, for except in the later 
 pickings no portion of the petrote or stalk must be 
 gathered with the finest sorts of tea. 
 
A Cup of Tea. 
 
 The average collection of each picker ranges from 
 but fourteen to sixteen pounds per day. The leaves of 
 this " chop " being smaller and tenderer and possessing 
 more sap than those of the later pickings, the yield is 
 consequently less, it being generally understood that 
 all teas are finer in proportion to the tenderness and 
 immaturity of their leaves. It requires four pounds of 
 -raw leaves to yield one pound of dried tea. 
 
 The practice of picking the young leaf buds, just as 
 they are beginning to unfold, would prove very injurious 
 to the health of the plants, were it not for the copious 
 showers which fall at this season, causing fresh leaves 
 soon to spring out, preventing the injury that would 
 inevitably be caused by the constant removal of the buds, 
 by which the plant would be prevented from being 
 clothed with the full grown leaves, that can alone 
 elaborate the sap and constitute the further gpowth of 
 the shrub and causing -it to perish easier, thereby 
 compelling a more frequent renewal of the plantation. 
 
 A second picking occurs in May or June, according 
 to the fertility of the district, and constitutes the largest 
 and most important gathering. It is known to trade as 
 " Second chop," and is principally exported. The yield 
 of this picking varies from three to four hundred pounds 
 per acre; an experienced picker collecting about 20 fts 
 per day. The third picking takes place in July ; the 
 leaves of this chop are larger, coarser and much inferior 
 to that of the preceding, but is nevertheless an important 
 crop. In some districts it is customary to omit gather- 
 ing the " Third chop " to avoid injuring the plants. 
 
 In the most productive districts a "Fourth chop " is 
 gathered in August, and often as late as September, 
 
CtJLTlVATtoN AND pREtARAflOtJ. 63 
 
 This crop, however, is of little value, being principally 
 used for blending with some of the preceding ones, or for 
 home consumption by the poorer classes of Chinese, and 
 also for dyeing purposes. 
 
 In the green tea districts the plants are never allowed 
 to attain a large size, but are frequently pruned and 
 renewed, while in the black tea sections both the plants 
 and leaves that form the last piclcing are allowed to reach 
 their full growth. The products of both varieties 
 diminish in quality and value as they are gathered later 
 in the season, until they reach the lowest grade called by 
 the Chinese " Ta-cha," large or old tea, on account of the 
 maturity and size of the leaf. 
 
 In some districts of Japan, notably that of Udsi, 
 where the tea-plant is cultivated with the greatest atten- 
 tion, the "first chop" is gathered at the end of Winter 
 when the leaves are very young and tender, and only a 
 few days' old. 
 
 The second picking occurs at the beginning of Spring, 
 when some of the leaves have attained their full growth, 
 and others, just expanding, are gathered promiscuously, 
 and afterwards sorted. The smaller leaves being reserved 
 and sold for " First chop," or ''Early Spring-leaf" tea. 
 
 The third and last " chop " is gathered in Japan in 
 the middle of Summer; but like the last Chinese pick- 
 ing, is of little value, and forms the poorest grades 
 known in trade as " Common " or " Low grade Japan 
 tea." 
 
 In India, the mode of cultivation differs somewhat 
 from that of China and Japan ; though principally 
 conducted by Chinese laborers imported from the tea- 
 producing districts of China. The variations of soil, 
 
04 A UUP OF I'EA. 
 
 climate and improved facilities necessitating the change 
 in the methods of culture. The seeds are placed in long 
 covered wooden troughs filled with warm water, in 
 which they are allowed to remain for several days. 
 When the seeds commence to sprout, they are removed 
 and planted in beds that are well protected from the 
 wind. When the plants attain a height of ten or twelve 
 inches, they are transplanted to the gardens where they 
 are placed in rows about four feet apart. 
 
 These gardens are kept in the best order, no weeds being 
 permitted to interfere with the growth of the plants. 
 Every year, until they arrive at maturity, the plants are 
 carefully pruned, all the coarse stems being cut off, the 
 object being to make as many young shoots as possible, 
 and keep the bushes within bound, so that all parts may 
 be the easier reached by the pickers. The leaves are 
 never picked until the plant is three or more years' old. 
 
 CURIN'C. 
 
 When a sufficient quantity of leaves have been col- 
 lected they are carried to the " Hongs" or houses, a kind 
 of barn or public factory in which the operation of firing 
 and curling is performed. The first process being to 
 class or grade the leaves, which is done with more or less 
 care according to the quality of the tea under treatment. 
 
 The leaves when freshly picked possess nothing of the 
 color or odor of the tea of commerce. These properties 
 are developed by the many processes which the leaves 
 undergo in the operation of curing. 
 
 For these operations the Chinese have a long vocabu- 
 lary of technical terms, the- definitions of which as 
 vouchsafed to the " outside barbarian " are often per- 
 haps intended to mystify rather than elucidate. 
 
Cultivation and Preparation. 65 
 
 Tlie operations of tea manufacture are classified in 
 the following sequence : 
 
 (1) Evaporating the leaf; (2) Fermenting ; (3) Sun- 
 ning ; (4) Firing and Curling. Each process has to be 
 carried to a certain point and no further ; if under or 
 overdone the leaf is spoiled. 
 
 The object of evaporation is to extract in part the 
 volatile oil to which is due its astringency. When pro- 
 perly evaporated the leaf will, when pressed in the hand, 
 return to its former shape, and the stem will bend double 
 without breaking. 
 
 When evaporation is complete, the leaves are allowed 
 to ferment. The time requisite for this process is learned 
 only by experience. It is more rapid in warm than in 
 cool weather. Fermentation is stopped by stirring up 
 the leaves and spreading them out flat. . The effect of 
 fermentation on tea is to make it richer and smoother 
 in flavor. Tea in this respect resembles tobacco. If 
 you should take the tobacco leaf when first cut, and dry 
 it over a fire, it would become so sharp and bitter that 
 it would sting the tongue. 
 
 If the tea be allowed to remain in a heap after gather- 
 ing so that heating by natural fermentation should 
 occur, the leaves will be greatly injured. 
 
 After the tea is fermented, it is then spread out on 
 mats and exposed to the sun. This process is termed 
 "Sunning." It is shaken up and turned over repeatedly 
 so that the whole of it may be thoroughly permeated by 
 the sun. With bright sunshine, one hour's exposure is 
 sufficient. It is then ready for the final process, viz 
 firing and curling. 
 
 One of the results of this sunning process of-tea is to 
 
66 A Cup of Tea, 
 
 evaporate in a greater degree the properties that produce 
 wakefulness or nervousness ; hence it is that Black teas 
 are less severe on the nervous system than Green. 
 
 The leaves are now removed to the " tea hongs " 
 houses built expressly for the purpose of curing. They 
 contain from ten to twenty small furnaces about three 
 feet high, each having at the top a series of shallow iron 
 pans called Kuos, which are built into brickwork, low 
 in front, and rising very gradually at the sides and back, 
 having a flue beneath them, and a fireplace at one end. 
 These furnaces are built in shady situations in the open 
 air, or under verandahs. 
 
 These pans are heated to a certain degree by a charcoal 
 fire made in the furnaces underneath them. Charcoal is 
 used exclusively in the curing of teas, as smoke of any 
 kind will injure its flavor. 
 
 A limited quantity of the raw leaves are thrown into 
 the Kuo at a time. Tlie roaster or manipulator drawing 
 them with a light pressure of his hands from side to 
 side, turning them over and over, repeating the process 
 for several minutes, and keeping them in constant mo- 
 tion. The leaves begin to crack and soon become moist, 
 soft and pliable. The freshest and juciest crack the first 
 moment they touch the heated pan. 
 
 It is the duty of the operators to continue stirring them 
 rapidly as possible with their bare hands until they be- 
 come too hot to be endured ; the object being to expose 
 them equally to the action of the heat, and at the same 
 time to prevent them from burning or scorching. When 
 the heat becomes too intense, they are lifted rapidly 
 above the Kuo and allowed to fall gradually, so as to 
 cool them. If any of the leaves begin to burn, they are 
 
Cultivation and Preparation. 67 
 
 instantly removed. At this stage, the leaves are taken 
 off with a shovel resembling a pan, and thrown upon a 
 long low table made of split bamboo, and covered with 
 matting. It is surrounded by several workmen, each of 
 whom takes as many leaves as he can hold iu his hands, 
 and rolls them from left to right with a circular motion 
 which keeps them together. This process is called 
 " curling " or ." twisting " the leaves. 
 
 A second set of operators collect together the leaves 
 after the twisting is done, turn them over and ovei", toss 
 and re-toss them in the air to a considerable height, while 
 a third set keeps fanning them in order that they may 
 cool more speedily and retain their curl longer. The 
 leaves containing the most sap curl up tightest and 
 quickest. 
 
 As soon as the firing and curling operations are com- 
 pleted, the leaves are exposed to the action of the air, 
 so as to admit of the passing away of the expressed 
 moisture, and iuijiart to them a crisp appearance. 
 
 The firing process is repeated three, sometimes four 
 times, in order that all the moisture may be dissipated, 
 and their curl and crispness preserved. 
 
 On every repetition of the operation, the Kuo is less 
 heated, and the process performed more slowly and cau- 
 tiously. The leaves are then winnowed and separated 
 again into different qualities. They are again toasted at 
 a diminished heat, being frequently shaken and stirred 
 around the less heated sides of the pans, then follows 
 another rolling. 
 
 In the preparation of the finer grades, the last operation 
 is performed in flat bamboo baskets or sieves over a slow 
 charcoal fire. A long basket or wicker tube is placed over 
 
68 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 the furnace, which is covered with cross wires, on which 
 the sieve containing the leaves is placed; after half an 
 hour's exposure to the fire another sieve is placed on top 
 of the first one and both inverted so as to turn the leaves 
 without breaking them, they are then rubbed between the 
 hands and exposed to the air until they become black, 
 dry, crisp and curled. The finer sorts are not handled 
 or tossed, but are simply whirled round in a sieve. 
 
 With four pans and eight operators about four piculs 
 of leaf can be fired and cured per day. It requires 
 4 Bbs of fresh leaves to make 1 ft> of dried tea. The 
 yield per acre ranges from 300 to 400 pounds of green 
 leaves, the product of a single farm seldom exceeding 
 500 to 600 chests of cured tea. In the districts ^vhe^e 
 both varieties are prepared from the same plant the 
 manufacture of such leaves as are intended for Green 
 tea differs from that^of the Black. (1) In the roast- 
 ing or firing of the leaves almost immediately after 
 they are gathered, care being taken to preserve them 
 from the action of the air ; and (2) In being sub- 
 jected to a higher and more frequent roasting and 
 a more rapid drying of the leaves, after they have 
 und ergone the rolling process. Green teas are fired 
 oftener and higher, both before and after they are sifted, 
 whereas the leaves intended for Black as has been 
 shown are alloM'ed to remain exposed to the sun for an 
 entire day, and are freely exposed to the action of the 
 air, between all the stages of manipulation, and cured by 
 a slower and more elaborate method, the oxygen of 
 the air being allowed to act upon the juices of the leaf. 
 The cost of preparing Green teas is also more, owing to 
 the greater amount of care and labor bestowed on them 
 
Cultivation and Preparation. 69 
 
 The higher teas are toasted the better will be the 
 liquor, and the longer they will retain their flavor. 
 Green teas also, from the method of curing, retain 
 more of the active principle as proved by the greater 
 effects prcdueed upon the nervous system. 
 
 The difference is obvious, "^rhe peculiar character- 
 istics which distinguish Black teas from Green are to be 
 attributed, not alone to a difference in the species of the 
 plant, but also to a difference in the process of fermenta- 
 tion, and roasting, accompanied with oxydization by 
 exposure to the air, during the several processes which 
 it undergoes while being prepared. 
 
 It was a commonly received opinion at one time, that 
 the distinctive color of green teas is imparted to them 
 by being dried in copper pans. For this belief there is 
 not the slightest foundation in fact, since cojjper is never 
 used for the purpose ; repeated experiments by unerring 
 tests have been made, but in no case has any trace of 
 the metal been detected. 
 
 Notwithstandingtheinany conflicting opinions once ex- 
 isting regarding the origin of color in the teas of commerce, 
 it is now universally acknowledged that the variety of the 
 genus Thea cultivated in the northern provinces of China 
 principally that of Che-Kiang is best adapted for the 
 production of the kind known to trade as Green tea, 
 and from this section the bulk of the Green teas of 
 commerce are received. The species cultivated in the 
 southern districts, notal)ly Fo-Kien, being better suited 
 for the preparation of the Black. 
 
 It is a well authenticated fact that when the conver- 
 sion of Green teas from Black is intended, as is frequently 
 the case in the Black tea producing district of Fo-Kien, 
 
70 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 that only the large, old and inferior leaves are selected 
 for the purpose, as their defects can be more easily con- 
 cealed in this guise — coloring materials, gypsum, Prussian 
 blue and indigo being used to a considerable extent in 
 their manipulation. 
 
 This deception is happily practiced only in the dis- 
 tricts where Green teas are prepared from the Black 
 tea-plant, and only with the large, coarse and inferior 
 leaves, and such others as are unsuited for conversion 
 into Black, from their damaged or defective condition. 
 To their credit be it said, when coloring materials are 
 used in the preparation of this kind of tea, the Chinese 
 manipulators honestly brand the teas so prepared Mein- 
 pan-cha (Lie tea). But the brand is invariably removed 
 by the Christian trader after it reaches the port of expor- 
 tation. 
 
 The manufacturer or manipulator who prepares the 
 raw leaf for market, is usually the grower; but it is 
 often purchased by them from the small producers. 
 SCENTING. 
 
 The scenting or flavoring of teas is produced by the 
 admixture of the flowers, leaves, roots and sometimes 
 oils extracted from a variety of different plants; yet, 
 while it is sometimes applied to the choicest kinds, it is 
 more frequently employed to impart an aroma to the 
 medium and inferior qualities of the article. 
 
 For this purpose various odoriferous flowers are era- 
 ployed ; orange flowers and jasmine blossoms are the 
 favorites, although several other kinds are also used, such 
 as the Chlorantus inconspicuous (Chulan flower); Olea 
 fragrans (fragrant Olive) ; Gardenia floridia, Magnolia 
 fuscata, lllicium anisatum. The leaves of the Cape 
 
Cultivation and Preparation. 71 
 
 Jessamine, the roots of Iris florentina and Ourcunia and 
 oil of the Bixa orellana are also extensively employed. 
 
 When the tea is perfectly manipulated, dried and ready 
 for market, about 40 pounds of fresh orange blossoms 
 Chulan flowers, etc., are mixed with about 100 pounds 
 of the tea; after 24 hours the flowers, blossoms, seeds 
 or roots, as the case may be, are then separated by sift- 
 ing. The tea being by that time strongly impregnated 
 with their odor, and also having absorbed moisture from 
 the fresh flowers, blossoms or leaves, is again dried to 
 remove it. 
 
 The blossoms or flowers are often laid on top of the 
 tea after being put in the packages, or dried with the 
 tea during the firing process, but invariably removed by 
 sifting. The scent increases after the tea is packed in 
 cases ; the length of time which teas thus scented retain 
 their odor varies according to the different kind of flow- 
 ers used ; some lose it in a year, while others retain it for 
 a much longer period. In scenting one pound of flowers 
 is the proportion to one chest of tea; this improves the 
 flavor without adding anything pernicious to the tea. 
 Ordinary teas cost in the tea producing districts from 6 
 to 8 taels per picul, or about 8 to 10 cents per pound 
 American currency. The packing and inland transpor- 
 tation, about 3 cents, additional ; export duties, and other 
 charges 3 cents more; making the total cost at the ship- 
 ping ports in China, about 15 cents (average) per pound. 
 From the tea producing districts to the shipping ports, 
 transportation is generally effected by a number of 
 portages, alternating with frequent shipments by canals 
 occupying from 6 to 8 weeks in transit. 
 
72 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 PACKING. 
 
 The final process is to place the leaves in a cylindrical 
 shaped basket, divided in two by a sieve partition. These 
 baskets containing about five "catties" (6 Bbs.) of tea are 
 then arranged over the kuos or pans; a light charcoal fire 
 is considered sufficient if the leaf is to be hurried to mar- 
 ket, but an extra firing is given them if they are inten- 
 ded to be " held " for any time and stored in earthenware 
 jars in use by all " curers," as a protection against damp 
 or other injury. 
 
 Teas of a fine or choice description are frequently 
 hand-picked at the " Hongs " or warehouses, and the 
 grades separated, but more often the tea is immediately 
 forwarded to the Twa-tu-tia (Tea market) and there pur- 
 chased by the native and foreign exporters in an unpacked 
 and ungraded condition. It is brought to market in 
 cotton or hempen bags, and it is in this partly " cured " 
 state that the native and foreign " packers " purchase 
 the article. 
 
 Previous to packing in the lead-lined tea cheste, the 
 tea often has to undergo a final picking, and invariably 
 another long and steady firing over charcoal fires, as 
 previously described, the object being to totally abstract 
 all moisture from the leaves. This last firing occupying 
 from four to ten and even twelve hours, according to 
 circumstances and condition ; this having been accom- 
 plished the hot leaves are weighed carefully and packed 
 in the lead-lined boxes or chests. If a chest is to con- 
 tain thirty catties of tea, ten catties are put in first and 
 the " Sai-hoo " (workman) levels or presses the tea down 
 with his hands, he then adds ten to fifteen catties more 
 steps on top of the tea, places his hands behind his back. 
 
Cultivation and Preparation. 73 
 
 throws liis head forward, and in this position goes through 
 a sort of a treadmill dance for about a minute until the 
 leaves are squeezed into the smallest possible compass, 
 the remaining iive or ten catties are then added, the 
 leaden lid soldered, the wooden top nailed on and 
 clamped, the package being then ready for shipment to 
 England; but if intended for the American market, an 
 additional mat covering is sewn around the chest, and in 
 order to further strengthen the package it is corded with 
 rattan. The contract cost of packing, including chests, 
 lead, painting, varnishing and matting, being from three 
 to four dollars per picul according to the quantity. 
 
 CLASSING. 
 
 The classification and grading of teas for their first 
 market, is performed differently in different localities in 
 China. 
 
 The most common custom in the Black tea producing 
 districts, is when the dried leaves have been previously 
 sorted according to their size, style and quality, a suffi- 
 cient quantity of each sorting is collected in a heap, and 
 so placed in different layers that when they are raked 
 down with a wooden rake, they mix and blend together 
 so as to obtain a uniformity in quality and fixed price. 
 
 Hand-picking to remove the coarse leaves and stalks, 
 is seldom practiced with Black teas, but is essential in 
 the final preparation of Green. 
 
 The Black tea markets are held generally every tenth 
 day during the season, and the teas of a farm are carried 
 thither for sale in quantities of from lOO^o 200 chests 
 at a time. 
 
 Thence they are removed to adjoining villages where 
 
74 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 the teas of a district are collected, and at which the 
 Chinese merchants and foreign tea factors have large 
 packing eslablishments. 
 
 In the Bohea districts, they are classified into Pekoes, 
 Congous and Souchongs, and divided into lots or parcels 
 called " chops ".of about 600 chests, each chest contain- 
 ing about 80 pounds. Each chop or lot is again divided 
 into numbers or brackets, consisting generally of 300 
 chests each. 
 
 JThe teas which are to form one uniform quality of 
 600 or 1000 chests, consist of certain proportions of 
 the three gatherings from various farms. 
 
 In the Black tea districts of Foochow, Formosa and 
 Amoy, the method of classification does jiot materially 
 diifer excepting that the teas are packed in smaller pack- 
 ages ; about 40 pounds,, being the average, and that they 
 are subdivided into chops, invoices, brackets and num- 
 bers. 
 
 The final preparation and classification of Green teas 
 is described as follows : — 
 
 There being two " makes" or forms of Green teas, one 
 being a round, and the other a curled leaf. They are 
 sifted and separated by the factors and merchants, when 
 purchased, and brought home. 
 
 In this operation f^ur sieves are used, two for the 
 round leaf and two for the flat, or curled, to separate 
 the sizes. 
 
 In the sifting of the round leaves, the smaller ones 
 that pass through, are collected and called Gunpowder ; 
 the large ones remaining being termed Imperial. 
 
 In the sifting of the flat, or curled leaves, the small 
 leaves that pass through the sieve are termed Young 
 
Cultivation and Preparation. 75 
 
 Hyson; the next size, Hyson, and the residue large, 
 coarse leavesj Hyson Skin, or " Refuse." These last are 
 again fired in a Kuo, considerably deeper than those 
 already described, at a heat of 90° Fahrenheit. They 
 are winnowed while hot with a large circular bamboo 
 tray, so as to drive off the chaff and dust that may adhere. 
 They are then bought up by merchants who travel 
 through the country. When they have collected a suffi- 
 cient quantity, they regrade, pack and forward to the 
 commission houses, or sell to the merchants at the re- 
 spective shipping ports. 
 
 It is transported across the country, principally .strung 
 upon the shoulders of men, or broughC down by canal or 
 other water-way in Junks, occupying from six to eight 
 weeks in transit. 
 
 After it arrives at tiie point of exportation, it under- 
 goes a still further classing and grading; numerous 
 hands, men and women, being employed in its final 
 classification. In fact, it would be impossible to narrate 
 the numerous processes of preparation and classification 
 that teas are subjected to from the planter to the 
 consumer. 
 
 While the many varieties of tea known to commerce 
 may or may not be produced from the same species, the 
 quality of the leaf is largely determined by the various 
 processes of preparation, and is also influenced by the 
 variation of soil, climate and situation. 
 
Chapter V. 
 
 CHEMICAL, MEDICINAL AND DIETICAL 
 PROPERTIES. 
 
 CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS. 
 
 On submitting the ordinary teas of commerce to 
 analysis, its most conspicuous chemical constituents are 
 found to be, 
 
 (1) Theine, a crystalizable substance soluble in 
 water, and having a very bitter taste. It is an alka- 
 loid characteristic alike of tea and coffee, and is to these 
 beverages what quinine is to bark ; it varies considerably 
 in different kinds of tea, ranging from 2.2 to 4.1 per 
 cent in Green teas, and from 1 to 3 in Black. 
 
 It may be readily obtained by the following simple 
 process : take the dust of finely powdered dried tea 
 leaves, or an evaporated watery extract of the leaves, 
 and place on a watch glass covered with a paper cone ; 
 put the glass on a hot plate, or hold over a spirit or 
 other lamp ; a white vapor will gradually rise and con- 
 dense on the interior of the cone in the form of small 
 crystals : these consist of theine the active principle of tea. 
 As it has no odor, and only a slight bitter -taste, it ob- 
 viously has little to do with the taste or flavor of tea 
 from which it is extracted ; it is however to the pres- 
 ence of this ingredient that the peculiar physiological 
 action of tea on the animal economy is due. 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and Dietic Properties. 77 
 
 It is also remarkable for the large quantity of nitro- 
 gen (28.83 per cent.) which it contains, and which is 
 nearly double the amount contained, in albumen, fibrine, 
 etc. ; it is also remarkable as occurring in plants, very 
 unlike each other, the product of diiferent and very re- 
 mote countries and which have been selected by different 
 nations for the purpose of yielding a slightly exciting 
 and very refreshing beverage. 
 
 It is not definitely known what change theine under- 
 goes in the animal economy, but when oxydized artifi- 
 cially, it becomes decomposed into methleamic (hydro- 
 cyaic or amalic acid) the nitrogenous compound allied 
 to the caseine or gluten constitutes almost 15 per cent, 
 of the weight of the leaf; as hot water extracts very 
 little of this substance, a large quantity of this nitroge- 
 nous matter which forms about 28 per cent, of the dried 
 plant leaves is wasted ; much of it may be saved by the 
 addition of a little carbonate of soda, to the boiling 
 water with which the tea is made. 
 
 (2). Tannin or tannic acid, to this principle which 
 forms 13 to 18 per cent, of the dried leaves, tea owes its 
 astringency, its constipating effect upon the bowelfe, and 
 the ink black color which it imparts to water containing 
 salts of iron. 
 
 Whether this ingredient contributes in any degree to 
 the exiiilarating, satisfying or narcotic action of tea, has 
 not been determined. Professor Johnston thinks it 
 probable that it does exert an exhilarating effect from 
 the fact that a species of tannin is the principal ingre- 
 dient of the Indian betel-nut, which when chewed pro- 
 duces a mild form of intoxication. 
 
 (3) Volatile or essential oil, which gives to tea its 
 
78 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 peculiar aroma and flavor; upon the quantity of this 
 constituent found in tea, depends its strength and flavor. 
 It is found by distilling the tea with water and exerts 
 a powerfully stimulating eifect upon the system: the 
 proportions in which it is found to exist are according 
 to Muller about 0.79 per cent, in Green tea and 0.6 per 
 cent, in Black. 
 
 The other substances extracted from tea, are those 
 which in various proportions enter into the composition 
 of all plants, and include a modification of constituents 
 analagous to Caseine, gum or gluten, besides sugar, 
 starch, fat, fibre, water, salts, etc. 
 
 Tea has been analyzed by different chemists, with 
 varying results, doubtless due to a difference in the 
 character and quality of the tea samples submitted for 
 analysis. 
 
 The average composition in parts is as follows : 
 
 Constituents, Quantity contained in 100 parts 
 
 Theine, - - - . , _ 3 
 
 Tannin, - ...... 25 
 
 Volatile oil, ------ 1 
 
 Albuminoids, - ----- 15 
 
 Gum and sugar, - - _ - _ . 21 
 
 Fatty substances, - - - - , - 4 
 
 Mineral, ------- 6 
 
 Vegetable fibre, - - - - - 20 
 
 Water, ___--. _-5 
 
 100 
 
 The chemical analysis of tea does not shed much 
 light upon its action on the human system. 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and Dietic Properties. 79 
 
 The volatile oil iu good teas is about f per cent. 
 The tannic acid varies in different sorts, and according 
 to different analysis from 13 to 26 per cent. The theine 
 is reported to vary still more considerably. Mulder 
 obtained less than a J per cent, of their weight from 
 China teas, and about \ more than that from Indian 
 teas. 
 
 Stenhouse obtained more than 1 per cent, in his 
 analysis and Peliglot obtained about 6 per cent, in his. 
 
 The experiments of the eminent chemist last named 
 are of great interest, and merit a somewhat detailed 
 description. 
 
 M. Peliglot began by determining the total amount of 
 nitrogen contained in the dried leaf at 110°. In one 
 variety of China black tea (Bohea), he found 6.58 of 
 nitrogen in 100 parts. In another (Oolong) 6.15 and 
 in Green about 6.30. In Indian teas 5.10, a proportion 
 nearly six times more considerable than had been shown 
 by any previous analysis. ' 
 
 Then testing every soluble substance for nitrogenous 
 matter, he proceeded by successive eliminations to 
 ascertain the quantity of theine in 27 different sorts of 
 teas. He thus found that green teas contained on an 
 average 10 per cent, of water, and black teas only 8 per 
 cent. That black teas contained on an average but 
 43.2 per cent, of matter soluble in boiling water, while 
 green teas contained 47.1 per cent. That tlie ordinary 
 black teas of commerce contained 38.4, and the ordinary 
 green teas 43.4 of soluble parts in water, and that this 
 soluble matter yielded in green teas 4.35 per cent, of 
 nitrogen, while that of black yields 4.70 per cent. 
 
 It remained to be determined whether this large 
 
A Cup of Tea. 
 
 quantity of nitrogen was wholly due to the theine, or 
 due in part to any other principle. 
 
 Having first ascertained that the precipitate obtained 
 by the sub-ascetate of lead contained no apparent 
 quantity of nitrogen, he then tried the theine by a 
 modification of Mulder's process, obtaining from green 
 tea an average of 2.48 per cent., and from a mixture of 
 green and black 2.70 per cent. Greatly as the 
 quantities exceeded those obtained by Mulder and 
 Stenhouse, they were still unable to account for the 
 whole amount of nitrogen found in the infusion. 
 
 By another simple procass, that of adding to the hot 
 infusion first sub-ascetate of lead and then ammonia, 
 separating the lead by filtration, and passing through it 
 a current of sulphureted hydrogen to precipitate the 
 lead, and then evaporating the liquid at a gentle heat, 
 he obtained an abundant supply of crystals of theine 
 from the liquid or " Mother-lye : " by re-evaporation 
 this supply was increased till it amounted in the whole 
 to 3.48 per cent. 
 
 There still remained a syrup containing more theine, 
 only to be precipitated by tannic acid ; the result added 
 to the theine already crystalized gave a total of 6.84 
 per cent, from Green tea in its raw state, and 6.21 per 
 cent, from the same leaf when dried. 
 
 The experiments were continued by boiling the ex- 
 hausted leaves with potash, which showed a presence of 
 Caseine to the extent of 28 per cent. The proportion of 
 this constituent of tea in its raw state being only from 
 14 to 15 per cent. 
 
 Mulder's analysis was made from Green and Black 
 teas, respectively, both Chinese and Indian kinds. Its 
 entire results were as follows : — 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and Dietic Properties. 8i 
 
 Chinese 
 Teas 
 
 Indian 
 Teas 
 
 Constituents 
 
 Volatile Oil, .... 
 Chlorophyl, .... 
 
 Wax, 
 
 Resin, 
 
 Gum, 
 
 Tannic Acid, .... 
 
 Theine, 
 
 Extractive matter, . . 
 
 Apothera, 
 
 Coloring matter, separable 
 by Muriatic Acid, 
 
 Albumen, 
 
 Woody fibre, .... 
 
 Salts or Ash contained 
 in the Crystals, 
 
 Geeen 
 
 0.79 
 
 2.22 
 
 0.28 
 
 2.22 
 
 8.56 
 
 17.80 
 
 0.43 
 
 22.80 
 
 Traces 
 
 23.60 
 
 3.00 
 17.08 
 
 98.78 
 6.56 
 
 Black 
 
 0.60 
 
 1.84 
 
 None 
 
 3.64 
 
 7.28 
 
 12.88 
 
 0.46 
 
 19.88 
 
 1.48 
 
 19.12 
 
 2.80 
 28.32 
 
 Black 
 0.65 
 1.28 
 None 
 2.44 
 
 11.08 
 
 14.80 
 .0.65 
 
 18.64 
 1.64 
 
 18.24 
 
 1.28 
 27.00 
 
 98.30 
 5.24 
 
 97.20 
 5.36 
 
 The above table shows the respective constituents of 
 tea. It is given not as throwing any important light 
 upon the cause of the different analysis and effect of 
 tea, but as containing the results of actual experiments. 
 
 The following comparative analysis of tea and coffee 
 may prove interesting as showing how nearly they con- 
 tain the same organic constituents, although in different 
 quantities. 
 
Bi 
 
 A Ctrp OF Tea. 
 
 . 100 parts of Tea 
 Constituents. contain 
 
 Theine, - 
 
 3 
 
 Tannin, 
 
 26.25 
 
 Volatile qil, 
 
 0.75 
 
 Caseine, 
 
 15 
 
 Gum, 
 
 18 
 
 Sugar, 
 
 3 
 
 Starch, 
 
 a trace 
 
 Fat, 
 
 4 
 
 Fibre, 
 
 20 
 
 Water, 
 
 5 
 
 Mineral matter, - 
 
 5 
 
 100 parts of Coffee 
 
 contain 
 
 1.75 
 
 4 
 
 - 0.002 
 13 
 
 9.00 
 ■6.05 
 
 - a trace 
 12 
 35 
 12 
 
 6.07 
 
 It may be here remarked that when tea leaves have 
 been exhausted or drawn by water repeatedly affused, 
 alcohol is still capable of extracting a considerable 
 quantity of soluble matter. The alcoholic extract in- 
 fused in boiling water, furnishes a liquor which tastes 
 and smells strongly of tea, and which were it not for 
 the expense of the solvent and trouble attending its 
 separation, might perhaps be profitably employed. 
 
 MEDICINAL EFFECTS. 
 
 The virtues of tea have been extolled from the time 
 of its earliest use as a beverage by the Chinese. Lo-yu, 
 a learned Chinese, who lived in the dynasty of Tang, 
 A. D. 618 to 906, says of it : " It tempers the spirits, 
 harmonizes the mind, dispels lassitude and relieves 
 fatigue. It awakens thought, prevents drowsiness, light- 
 ens and refreshes the body, and clears the perceptive 
 faculties." 
 
 Of its sanitary effects after its introduction into 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and IDietic Properties. §3 
 
 Europe there was for a long period much contradiction 
 existing. The champions of " our wholesome English 
 sage" contending that it was far superior "to the boasted 
 Indian shrub" were but a few of a host who attacked 
 the use of tea " as an innovation pregnant with danger 
 to the health and good morals of the people." 
 
 Many, although resolute for its banishment from the 
 caddy, were willing to accord to it a place in the medi- 
 cine chest. 
 
 With brain-workers it has always been a favorite 
 beverage. The subdued irascibility, the refreshed 
 spirits, the renewed energies which the student so often 
 owes to it, have been the theme of many an accomplished 
 pen. 
 
 Tea and the Poets. 
 
 To say nothing of the praises sung to it by English 
 speaking poets and essayists, its virtues have been 
 sounded by Herricken and Francius in Greek verse. 
 By Pecklin in Latin epigraphs, by Pierre Pettit in a 
 Latin poem of five hundred lines, and by a German ver- 
 sifyer who celebrated in a fashion of his own : " Its 
 burial and happy resurrection." 
 
 Huet, bishop of Arranches, has also paid his gracious 
 tribute to a stimulant to which probably no scholar was 
 ever more indebted, and which he continued to enjoy at 
 the ripe age of ninety. 
 
 Johnson, indeed, did not make verses to its honor, but 
 he has drawn his own portrait as "a hardened and 
 shameless tea drinker, who for twenty years diluted his 
 meals with only the infusion of this fascinating plant ; 
 whose kettle had scarcely time to cool, who with tea 
 
§4 A Ctjf of Tea. 
 
 amused the evening ; with tea solaced the night ; and with 
 tea welcomed the morning." 
 
 Its assailante are not so distinguished, but as we have 
 partly seen already have been quite as emphatic. Jonas 
 Hanway, "a man whose follies," as Johnstone says, 
 "may well be pardoned for his virtues," is, perhaps, the 
 most conspicuous of them. 
 
 He looked abroad on the world and perceiving that 
 many things went wrong in it, and other things no longer 
 presented the same attractive appearance, he remembered 
 them to have in his youth, laid to the charge of tea all 
 the evils and disenchantments that oppressed his spirits. 
 " Men," he says, " seem to have lost their stature and 
 comeliness, and women their beauty. What Shakespeare 
 had asserted to the concealment of love, in this age is more 
 frequently occasioned by the use of tea." 
 
 To these complaints echoes were not wanting, but after 
 a while the tea-drinkers had it all their own way. 
 
 Dr. Lettson was the first medical writer who gave to 
 the public a reasonable and scientific account of the tea 
 plant, but even his fears of its abuse ran away with his 
 judgment. 
 
 The poet who commended " the cup that cheers, but 
 not inebriates," must have been startled if Dr. Lettson's 
 pamphlet ever fell into his hands, at the assertions made 
 by him "that the growth of this pernicious custom 
 (drunkenness), is often owing to the weakness and de- 
 bility of the system brought on by the daily habit of 
 drinking tea." " The trembling hand seeks relief in 
 some cordial in order to refresh and excite again the en- 
 feebled system, whereby such persons fall into the habit 
 of intemperance," 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and biETic tROtERTilES. 85 
 
 Here, assuredly, the exception must have been taken 
 for the rule. That tea may be so abused as to create a 
 craving for alcoholic stimulants is unquestionable. But 
 that at any period its abuse has been so general as to be- 
 come the main cause of drunkenness, may be safely 
 denied. 
 
 At one time tea had been looked upon as the 
 great means by which intoxication was to have been 
 banished. It is certain that to relieve the tremblings 
 and other unpleasant effects produced on brokers and 
 others engaged in testing teas, liquor is resorted to as an 
 offset. It is also a custom among those addicted to 
 the abuse of tea to add a little brandy or other alcoholic 
 stimulant to the "cup of tea," by which a habit is often- 
 times acquired which can never after be relinquished. 
 
 Tea has been preposterously praised by some writers 
 as being the incentive to virtue, and as unjustly con- 
 demned by others, as being producive of numerous 
 diseases. Above all it has been charged with causing 
 an increase of nervous diseases. While it would, per- 
 haps, be more just to attribute the increase of such com- 
 plaints to the more complicated state of our social relations 
 arising from an augmented population and advance in 
 more luxurious living, with the more frequent infringe- 
 ment of the natural laws, particularly that of turning 
 night into day, and not seldom day into night, as is the 
 practice of the votaries of fashion ; the use of tobacco 
 and other narcotics. 
 
 A correct estimate of the action of tea on the human 
 system is not easily formed. Yet the most dispassionate 
 inquirers regard it as a narcotic, the stimulating period 
 
86 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 of which is most conspicuous and of the longest dura- 
 tion. 
 
 The active ingredient of tea is an alkaloid called 
 thfeine (as shown in its cheinical analysis it is identical 
 with caffeine, the active principle of coffee, and is also 
 found in the kola nut, guarana plant, etc.) The medicinal 
 effects of the tea infusion upon thesystem are the results of 
 the several effects of this alkaloid formed by the theine, 
 tannin, volatile oil and the hot water. Of these elements 
 the theine probably plays the most important part. Like 
 all potent alkaloids theine is a powerful modifier of the 
 nerve functions. Experiments have been made with it 
 upon a number of animals to determine how the various 
 parts of the nervous and muscular apparatus are affected 
 by it, but with varying results. 
 
 An important effect of the alkaloid which seems now 
 to be abundantly proved, is to lessen the amount of the 
 nitrogenous excretra, notably that of the urine, which 
 means to diminish the rate at which nitrogenous sub- 
 stances are oxydized within the body. It is probable 
 that the volatile oil may also produce the same effect, as 
 Lehman found the volatile oil contained in roasted coffee 
 to possess this action. 
 
 The medical uses of tea are not many. In fevers it is 
 not onlyan excellent diluent at the commencement, but 
 a tincture of tea, prepared by macerating the leaves in 
 proof spirit and adding a teaspoonful of the mixture to 
 a small cup of water, given at short intervals during 
 the night in the jater stages and after the acute symp- 
 toms have subsided is often of great service. 
 
 For this purpose in hospitals and almshouses the 
 leaves which have been once used for the ordinary infu- 
 
Chemical, Medicinal AND Dietic Properties. Sy 
 
 sion may be macerated in alcohol and a tincture of suffi- 
 cient strength obtained at a cheap rate. 
 
 In the earlier stages it is also valuable when given in 
 the form of a cold infusion. 
 
 It is nearly as valuable an antidote to poisoning by 
 opium as coffee is, and many cases of poisoning by arsenic 
 and tartarized antimony have been prevented from prov- 
 ing fatal by the immediate administration of tea in the 
 form of a very strong infusion. Here its power as an 
 antidote depends upon the tannin decomposing the pois- 
 onous substances. But in poisoning by opium it is use- 
 ful only in combating the secondary symptoms, and 
 should not be administered until the stomach pump or 
 other means has removed the opium from the stomach. 
 
 "Persons of a gouty or rheumatic nature, more espe- 
 cially those prone to calculous diseases, will find tea the 
 least objectionable article of common drink. They 
 should use it without sugar and with very little milk." 
 (Prout on the Stomach, p. 217.) 
 
 When the water is hard, the addition of a little car- 
 bonate of soda not only improves the tea but also renders 
 it a more proper beverage for such persons, but should 
 not be used by them for at least four hours after any 
 solid meal. 
 
 In some forms of heart disease tea proves a useful 
 sedative, while in others it is positively injurious. 
 
 Many cases of severe nervous headache are relieved 
 by a cup of strong green tea taken without milk or 
 sugar. But it should only be occasionally resorted to. 
 It is much better to avoid the causes of such headaches. 
 The absence of gout and calculous diseases in China is 
 said to be attributable to the almost continual use of tea. 
 
A Cup of tfeA. 
 
 In a peculiar state of the brain termed by Mr. 
 Newnham " Sthenic excitement" a condition clearly bor- 
 dering on inflammation, more especially if produced by 
 alcoholic stimulants, intense study, or a long-continued 
 application of the mind to any particular object of 
 literary research, an infusion of green tea will act as a 
 salutary remedy, while on the contrary, in times of di- 
 minished excitement, a morbid vigilance and nervous 
 disturbance will follow its use. 
 
 Cold tea has been known to check violent retching 
 and vomiting, while very hot tea will prove very bene- 
 ficial in severe attacks of colic and diarrhoea. An ap- 
 plication of the cold exhausted leaves will subdue in- 
 flammation of the eyes produced by cold or other 
 causes. It should be applied and left remain over- 
 night. 
 
 People who travel much will find a supply of tea a 
 valuable accompaniment, as it will improve the taste 
 and neutralize the efifects of the most brakisi water, 
 and will prove efficient in preventing the dysenteric 
 and diarrhcetic results oftentimes produced by the too 
 frequent and extreme changes of the drinking water. 
 
 It may not be true that the use of tea, as alleged by 
 Dr. Lettsom, has been the cause of the great increase of 
 nervous and kindred diseases in seminaries and other 
 educational establishments. Still, the advice is sound 
 when he says : " It ought by no means to be the com- 
 mon drink of boarding schools, but, when allowed in 
 moderation, they should at the same time be informed 
 that the constant and too frequent use of tea would be 
 injurious to their health, strength and constitution." 
 For whatever impairs the nerve power and ultimately 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and Dietic Properties. 89 
 
 the digestive organs in strumous children should be 
 avoided. 
 
 But if a diminution of the number of inflammatory 
 diseases be one of the consequences of the increased 
 consumption of tea, which is now generally admitted, 
 it is very much in its favor, as, however distracting 
 nervous diseases may be, they are by no means so fatal 
 as tliose of an inflammatory kind. 
 
 Nevertheless many persons have almost immediately 
 been relieved from nervousness by entirely relinquish- 
 ing the use of tea, or even by omitting it at breakfast, 
 at which meal it is certainly less proper. 
 
 It is impossible to speak too strongly against the 
 not uncommon habit frequently adopted by ardent 
 students, when prosecuting their studies far into the 
 night, to resist the claims of nature for repose and 
 keep off tlie natural sleepiness by repeated libations of 
 tea. That it answers the purpose for the time being 
 cannot be denied, but the object is often attained at a 
 fearful price. The persistent adoption of such a prac- 
 tice is certain to lead to the utter destruction of health 
 and vigor of both mind and body. Less injury in such 
 cases will result from the use of coffee. 
 
 There being tliis difference between the morbid states 
 of tlie nervous system produced by coffee and that re- 
 sulting from tea: That the effect of the former gener- 
 ally subsides or disappears entirely on the relinquish- 
 ment of its use, while that caused by tea is more per- 
 manent and often incapable of being eradicated. 
 
 Recent authorities state that the effects of tea upon 
 the human system is to increase the assimilation of food, 
 both of the heat and flesh-foriping kinds, and that 
 
9° A Cup of Tea. 
 
 with abundance of food it promotes nutrition, while in 
 the absence of suificient food it increases the waste of 
 the body. 
 
 That tea should not suit all constitutions or all ages 
 is no argument against its use. True, it is less suitable 
 for young children than for adults. Indeed, for very 
 young children it is entirely improper, producing in 
 them, like all narcotics, a morbid state of the brain and 
 nervous system generally. It is also uiisuited to those 
 . of an irritable disposition, and also for those of a leuco- 
 phlegraatic constitution. Such persons can illy bear 
 much liquid of any kind, particularly in the evening, 
 and prosper "best on a very dry diet, to which young 
 children, especially, should be strictly confined. 
 
 Briefly, then it may be said, that tea is best suited to 
 persons in health, the plethoric and sanguine, and upon 
 the same principle it is the proper diet at the beginning 
 of fevers and all inflammatory complaints. Besides the 
 more obvious effects with which all who use it are 
 familiar, tea saves food by lessening the waste of the 
 body ; thus it nourishes the muscular system, while it 
 excites the nervous to increased activity, old and infirm 
 persons usually deriving more benefit and personal com- 
 fort from its use than from any corresponding beverage. 
 While as a general rule it is very prejudicial to young 
 children ' until growth is accomplished, and adults of 
 nervous, irritable or leuco-phlegraatic temperaments. 
 Those with whom tea will not agree will find weak 
 coffee or cocoa tlie best substitute. 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and Dietic Properties. 91 
 
 DIETICAL PROPERTIES. 
 
 "The temperature of the human body is 98°, where 
 food is taken into the stomach of a lower temperature 
 than that of the body it abstracts heat from the stomach 
 and surrounding tissues, and when the practice of taking 
 cold food becomes habitual, depression occurs and the 
 stomach is disordered. The system must make good the 
 beat lost in raising the temperature of cold food or else 
 suifer. The body demands food when .in an exhausted 
 state; cold food or drink makes an immediate drain 
 upoa thfi system for Jieat before it can supply material 
 for producing combustion, and the body is taxed to sup- 
 ply heat at a time when it is least fitted for it. It is natural 
 therefore that there should be a craving for warm food, 
 as liquid- food is deficient in heat growing matter, the 
 use of cold drink is more injurious than that of cold 
 food." {Lankester's " Our Food.") 
 
 According to the chemical classification of food, the 
 '' flesh formers " contained in teas of average quality, 
 may be said to be about 18 per cent., and the " heat 
 givers" 72 per cent., water and mineral matter being 
 divided between the residue. The several constituents, 
 as they are to be found in the excellent " Food Collec- 
 tion," at the ^outh Kensington Museum (England), 
 stand thus : 
 
92 
 
 
 A Cup 
 
 OF 
 
 Tea. 
 
 
 
 Constituents 
 
 Quantities 
 
 In 1 LB. OF 
 
 Contained 
 Good Tea. 
 
 Centesimal 
 Peopoetions. 
 
 
 1 
 
 Oz. 
 
 
 Grains. 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 Theine, . . 
 
 
 
 
 210 
 
 3.00 
 
 3 
 
 Caseine, . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 175 
 
 15.00 
 
 b' 
 
 Volatile Oil, 
 
 
 
 
 52 
 
 0.75 
 
 
 Gum, . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 385 
 
 18.00 
 
 Sugar, . . 
 
 
 
 
 211 
 
 3.00 
 
 < 1 
 
 Fat, . . . 
 
 
 
 
 280 ^ 
 
 4.00 
 
 °3{ 
 
 Tannic Acid, 
 
 4 
 
 
 87 
 
 26.25 
 
 
 \ Woody Fibre, 
 
 3 
 
 
 87 
 
 20.00 
 
 
 Water, . . 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 350 
 
 5.00- 
 
 
 Mineral or Ash, 
 
 
 15 oz 
 
 
 350 
 
 5.00 
 
 
 267 gr. 
 
 100 parts. 
 
 That the universal employment of tea has displaced 
 some other kinds of food is certain. Regarding its 
 dietic properties much has been written. While some 
 physicians have praised its value as an article of food, on 
 account of the large proportion of nitrogen it contains, 
 others have maintained that it is non-nutritious and. does 
 not serve as a substitute for food, and that the only bene- 
 ficial ingredients it contains are the milk and sugar 
 commonly added in its preparation. 
 
 In considering the nourishing effects of " a cup of 
 tea," the nutriment contained in the milk and sugar cer- 
 tainly must not be overlooked, neither must the power- 
 ful influence of the heat of the steaming draught be 
 forgotten. 
 
 In his admirable work on Hygiene Dr. Parkes' re- 
 marks, that tea seems to possess a decidedly stimulating 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and Dietic Properties. 93 
 
 and restorative action on the human system. No de- 
 pression whatever following its use, the pulse being a little 
 quickened, and the amount of pulmonary carbonic acid 
 accordingly increased. 
 
 From this experiment Dr. Parkes regards tea as a 
 most useful article of diet for soldiers, and it is well 
 known that cold tea is latterly more frequently preferred 
 to beer or cider by agriculturists and others engaged in 
 laborious occupations, more work being performed by 
 those who use it in preference to beer or cider. 
 
 A person when very much fatigued will be sooner 
 refreshed by drinking a cup of moderately strong good 
 tea, than by drinking wine or spirits of any kind. 
 
 Dr. Smith considers that tea promotes all vital actions: 
 as published in his " Philosophical Transactions," he 
 says " the action of the skin is increased and that of 
 the bowels lessened. The kidney secretions are a little 
 affected, and perhaps the urine is somewhat diminished, 
 but this latter is uncertain." 
 
 Under the infirmities of advancing age, when the 
 digestive powers become enfeebled, and the size and 
 weight of the body begin perceptibly to diminish, the 
 value of tea in checking the rapid wa^ste of the tissues 
 is especially observable. In allaying or satisfying 
 severe thirst no beverage will be found as efficacious as 
 a draught of cold tea. 
 
 From other experiments it appears that the introduc- 
 tion into the stomach of three or four grains of theine, 
 which is the quantity contained in about one-third of 
 an ounce of good tea, has the remarkable effect of dim- 
 inishing the daily waste or disintegration of the bodily 
 tissues which may be measured by the quantity of solid 
 
94 A Ctrp OF Tea. 
 
 constituents contained in the many secretions, and if 
 such waste be lessened the necessity for food to repair 
 that waste will obviously be diminished in equal pro- 
 portion. 
 
 " In other words," says Professor Johnstone, " by the 
 consumption of a certain quantity of tea the health and 
 strength of the body will be maintained in an equal 
 degree upofi a smaller supply of ordinary food." 
 
 Tea, therefore, saves food ; stands to a certain extent 
 in place of food, while at the same time it soothes the 
 body and enlivens the mind. 
 
 Dr. Lettsona has given a calculation, partly his own 
 and partly from other sources, in which he endeavors to 
 show how much is in his view, unnecessarily expended 
 by the poor for tea. 
 
 But the observations of Liebig, if correct, and in all 
 probability they are so, offer a satisfactory explanation 
 of the cause of the partiality of the poorer dlasscs not 
 alone for tea, but for teas of an expensive and therefore 
 superior kind. 
 
 " We shall never certainly," he says, " be able to dis- 
 cover how people were led to the use of the hot infusion 
 of the leaves of a certain shrub (tea) or of a decoction of 
 certain roasted seeds (coffee). Some cause there must be 
 which would explain how the practice has become a 
 necessary of life to whole nations. But it is still more 
 remarkable that the beneficial effects of both plants on 
 the health must be ascribed to one and the same sub- 
 stance, the presence of which in two vegetables belong- 
 ing to natural families, and the product of different 
 quarters of the globe could hardly have presented itself 
 to the boldest imagination. Yet recent researches have 
 
Chemical, Medicinal and Dietic Properties. 93 
 
 shown in such a manner as to exclude all doubt that 
 Caffeme (the active principle of coffee), and Theine (the 
 active principle of tea), are in all respects identical. 
 
 Without entering minutely into the medical action of 
 Theine (Caffeine), it will surely appear a most striking 
 fact even if we were to deny its influence on the process 
 of secretion, that this substance, with the addition of 
 oxygen and the elements of water can yield taurine, the 
 nitrogenous compound peculiar to bile. So that if an 
 ordinary infusion of tea contain no more than jlj- of a 
 grain of theine, and if, as has been shown, contributes 
 in point of fact to the formation of bile, the action even 
 of such a small quantity cannot be looked upon as a 
 nullity. Neither can it be deemed that in the case of 
 an excess ofnon-atomized food, and a deficiency of the exer- 
 cise which is required to cause a change of matter in the 
 tissues, and thus to yield the nitrogenized product which 
 enters into the composition of the bile, the health may 
 be benefited by the use of compounds which are capable 
 of supplying the place ,of nitrogenized substances pro- 
 duced in a healthy state of the body, and essential to the 
 production of this important element of respiration. 
 
 In a chemical sense, and it is in this sense alone to 
 which the preceding remarks are intended to show that 
 in virtue of its composition it is better adapted to this 
 purpose than all other nitrogenized vegetable principles. 
 
 This fact clearly shows in what manner tea proves to 
 the poor a substitute for animal food, and why it is that 
 females, literary persons and others of sedentary habits 
 who take but little exercise manifest such a partiality 
 for tea. 
 
96 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 It also explains why the attempts, and they have been 
 numerous, to find other substitutes for tea liave invariably 
 failed of success. 
 
 The appended comparative analysis of tea and coffee 
 may prove interesting, as showing how nearly they 
 contain the same ingredients: 
 
 Tea. Coffee. 
 
 Carbon, 
 
 - 50.101 
 
 Hydrogen, 
 
 5.214 
 
 Nitrogen, - 
 
 29.009 
 
 Oxygen, 
 
 - 15.676 
 
 49.77 
 
 5.33 
 
 28.78 
 
 16.12 
 
 "Tea increases the action of and by lessening the 
 force of the circulation, cools the body and does not 
 cause congestion of any of the mucous membranes and 
 particularly that of the bowels. Coffee by diminishing 
 the action of the skin lessens also the heat of the body, 
 but increases the vis a tergo and therefore the heats, 
 action and the fulness of the pulse, and excites the mu- 
 cous membrane. The conditions therefore under which 
 coffee may be used are different from those suited to the 
 use of tea. " (Lankesters " Our Food") 
 
COMMERCIAL CLASSIFICATION AND 
 DESCRIPTION. 
 
 Commercially all teas are generically classified as Green 
 and Black. There are five kinds' or sorts known to 
 commerce — China, Japan, Indian, Ceylon and Java. Of 
 these China alone produces green and black in any 
 quantity, Japans being nearly all green, and the other 
 growths almost exclusively black. 
 
 These two generic varieties are divided into numerous 
 sub-varieties, with appellations denoting some peculiarity 
 of style, color or flavor, but more frequently founded 
 upon the age, size and form of the leaves, or derived 
 from the province or district where they have been pro- 
 duced, and other extrinsic circumstances. Green teas 
 are called by the Chinese Lo-tsaha, and Black He-tscha. 
 The 
 
 CREEN TEAS 
 
 Of China are of five principal kinds, viz : Moyunes, 
 Tienkes, Fychows, Taipings and Pingsueys named from 
 the districts where they are grown, and grading in 
 quality in the order named. Those are again specifically 
 sub-classified into Gunpowders, Imperials, Young 
 Hysons, Hysons and Twankays, terms denoting age, size 
 ^nd style of make of the leaves. 
 
gS A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Are of two kinds — " Nankin " and " Packeong," named 
 from districts in that province, in which they are grown, 
 and excel all other green teas in style and flavor. 
 
 Teas are the most valuable of these two, being superior 
 in make, color and flavor to the Packeong. The dry leaf 
 is firmly rolled or curled according to its style, and 
 of a rich natural green color from the fact that no color- 
 ing matter is used in its preparation. The infused 
 leaf is small, bright-green in color and perfectly formed. 
 The liquor bright golden or straw-colored, brisk and 
 possessing an astring6ncy peculiar only to Moyunes. 
 The flavor is rich, full, strong and "toasty," the latter 
 being a most desirable quality. 
 
 Differ in many respects from the Nankins. The dry 
 leaf is of a dull, glossy-green hue, looser in make, and, 
 not being " fired " as high as Nankin, loses its flavor 
 sooner. The finer grades of Packeong yield a light- 
 colored liquor, are delicate in flavor, but lack that 
 ^" toastiness " for which Nankins are so much admired. 
 The poorer grades when old acquire a peculiar flavor, by 
 some described as " brassy," very much disliked by tea- 
 drinkers generally. Had all green teas coming to our 
 market been equal to Moyunes, green teas would not 
 have fallen in the public estimation.. 
 
 Teas are produced in the adjoining district to Moyune, 
 but, notwithstanding that fact, are very much inferior. 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. 99 
 
 The leaf is firmly made, silvery-green in color and 
 pleasing in appearance, due, in a great measure, to the 
 coloring matter used in its preparation. The liquor is 
 very light in color and body, and the flavor pungent, 
 but devoid of the richness and fragrance of Moyunes. 
 
 Are stylishly made, of a leaden-green color, considerable 
 coloring material being used in their preparation. These 
 teas possess a very coarse flavor, inclined to be smoky 
 and bitter. They are sold altogether on their appear- 
 ance, as they will not stand the cup test. 
 
 Like Fychows, look well in the hand, but are very flat 
 and smoky in flavor, many of them being considered 
 " bilgy " or " weedy." The leaf is firmly made — 
 bluish-green in color — the result of the gypsum used in 
 preparing them. They are bought for their style and 
 cheapness, but dealers who know their business will not 
 handle them. 
 
 Are termed by the Chinese Tohaw tcha, or " Bastard tea." 
 They possess no intrinsic value really as a tea. Some 
 authorities contending that they are not prepared from 
 the leaves of the tea plant at all, but from the leaves 
 of some plant remotely resembling it, as the willow, 
 ash or plum. The leaves are very stylishly and finely 
 made, the color is of a leaden-blue and glossy or greasy 
 in appearance, gypsum and Prussian blue being exten- 
 sively used in their manipulation. In flavor they are 
 bitterly astringent, and as nearly as can be described of a 
 " metallic " taste ; the little resemblance of the flavor of tea 
 
loo A Cup of Tea. 
 
 they possess being soon lost when exposed to the atmos- 
 phere. Tlie very finest Pingsuey teas will lose all the 
 flavor of tea (if they ever possessed any) in one month 
 after they are put in a caddie. 
 
 They are principally used for adulterating and mix- 
 ing with Moyune teas to reduce the cost. Few, if any, 
 who buy them for use by themselves will touch them 
 again. It is to the introduction of these so-called green 
 teas that the great prejudice to green teas is due. 
 
 The consumption of green teas have decreased in 
 this country over 20 per cent, in the last quarter of a 
 century, owing entirely, it is said, to the selling of Ping- 
 suey tea for pure green teas, but positively more than 
 to any other cause. 
 
 Prussian blue and gypsum are used to such an^extent 
 in the manipulation of these so-called teas that if a hand- 
 ful of the leaves is placed on a piece of glass, or on a 
 smooth table, large quantities of the coloring substance 
 will become separated and adhere to the hands, glass 
 or table. 
 
 Some years back a very large quantity of Pingsuey 
 green teas were shipped to England, but the govern- 
 ment would not allow them to be disposed of there. 
 They were then re-shipped to this country, and sold here 
 to the grievous detriment of genuine green teas. 
 
 Our Government has at last been induced to take 
 hold of this matter, and a law has been enacted prohibit- 
 ing their importation. 
 
 Is another spurious variety of green tea. It is manu- 
 factured at Canton from the exhausted leaves of tea 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. loi 
 
 once used. The Chinese being inveterate tea drinkers, 
 large quantities of these leaves are always to be had. 
 They are prepared by first grinding the leaves into a 
 fine powder, then mixing with a compound of gypsum 
 and gum or other starchy substance, coloring with Prus- 
 sian blue or indigo, and converted into Imperials only. 
 China clay and other mineral matter is added to give 
 weight or bulk. These teas are branded by the Chinese 
 Mein-pan tcha or " Lie tea," but the brand is invariably 
 removed before being shipped. 
 
 SUB-VARIETIES. 
 
 The commercial sub-varieties of green teas are first 
 
 So-named from its small, round and hard-rolled form. 
 For this same reason the Chinese call it CJioo-toha, or 
 "Pearl tea." The product of the first gathering 
 being extremely small and granulated in appearance 
 is called "Pin-head." This is generally prepared from 
 the " first chop" of Moyune and classified as " Nankin 
 Moyune Gunpowder." In flavor it is rich, smooth and 
 toasty ; the body is heavy, and taste strong without being 
 at all bitter. 
 
 The second " chop " of this tea is much larger in size 
 and not quite as hard-rolled, but possesses almost the 
 same drinking qualities as the first. It is heavier in 
 body, but not quite as smooth or rich in flavor. It is 
 principally prepared from " Packeong," and classed as 
 " Packeong Moyune Gunpowder." 
 
 The " third chop" grade or picking is rather loose in 
 " make," irregular in form, with still less strength and 
 flavor than the second, and is principally converted into 
 
ii>i A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Which are also prepared from the larger, coarser and older 
 leaves of the respective " chops." They are made 
 in the same form as Gunpowders, and called by the 
 Chinese "Big Gunpowder," being considerably larger 
 in size and bolder in style. A " first chop" Imperial 
 will equal a " first" Gunpowder in drawing and drinking 
 qualities, except that it will not be quite so delicate 
 in flavor. It derives its name from the fact of being 
 the "make" of tea used in the Imperial household, 
 by the Mandarins and wealthier Chinese, The true 
 .Imperial tea, also called "Flower tea," not because 
 it is composed of the flower buds as some suppose, 
 but merely from being the " Perfection of tea," it is never 
 exported, as the damp of a sea voyage and a northern 
 climate would soon impair its delicate qualities. The 
 first chops or grades of Imperials are well and compactly 
 rolled, the liquor and " round," heavy, light-yellowish 
 in color, but full and rich in flavor. 
 
 The second and third " chops " or grades differ the 
 same as Gunpowders, both being made from the same 
 pickings, but the one from small leaves and the other 
 from the larger. 
 
 Differ from Gunpowders and Imperials only in 
 form of the leaf. It is graded exactly alike, but being 
 prepared from the very small, tender and delicate leaves 
 it cannot be rolled, it is consequently a curled or twisted 
 leaf. The choice grades are artistically and finely curled, 
 possessing all the qualities of the corresponding grades 
 of Gunpowders.- It is called Yu-tsien by the Chinese, 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. 103 
 
 signifying " Before the rain," being picked in the early 
 spring. 
 
 The leaf of the " second chop" or grade of Young 
 Hyson, is larger, more open and flatter in shape, and 
 cannot be made to curl as well as the " firsts." 
 
 The leaves of the third chop is still larger, rougher 
 and coarser, being stemmy and dusty. This latter 
 grade is often simulated by cutting up the large old 
 leaves of the later chops of green teas and sifting them 
 through sieves of a requisite size. 
 
 Teas bear the same relation to Young Hysons that Impe- 
 rials do to Gunpowders. The leaves are large, loosely 
 twisted and rough, being made from the older leaves of 
 the respective pickings. The later chops varying in the 
 same manner, there being little difference in the drinking 
 qualities of the corresponding picking. The name is a 
 corruption of the Chinese term Tsien, " Flourishing 
 Spring," or gathered in full spring time. 
 
 Also called " Hyson Skin," is the Chinese term for 
 " Refuse tea ; " and is composed of the cullings and refuse 
 of all the foregoing kinds. It is made from the largest, 
 roughest and oldest leaves of each chop or picking that 
 cannot from their size and roughness be either rolled or 
 curled. They are separated from the other kinds of 
 green teas by a fanning process and a series of sieves. 
 There is rarely more than one grade of Twankay tea. 
 Some of them, those that are separated from the finer 
 grades of green, draw and drink exceedingly well. The 
 
104 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 BLACK TEAS. 
 
 Of China are of two kinds, Oolongs and Boheas. 
 Although Oolongs are classed as a black tea, they are 
 not, as their name denotes, strictly a black tea. The 
 term Oolong in Chinese signifies " Green dragon," and 
 is applied to teas of the Oolong variety ou account of a 
 small yellowish-green leaf permeating the tea. 
 
 Are of four different kinds or sorts, possessing as 
 many distinct flavors, caused principally by the varia- 
 tions in the soil and climate of the districts where they 
 are separately grown. They are commercially classed as 
 "Foo-chow," "Formosa," "Amoy" and "Ankoi," 
 terms denoting districts of production and grade in the 
 order named above, with the exception of the two former, 
 which are correspondingly equal in every essential except 
 that of flavor, that being altogether a matter of taste 
 with the consumer. 
 
 Are produced in the district of Foo-Choo-Foo, the 
 south-eastern province of Fo-Kien. The dry leaf of 
 the " First's " or finer chops is long, dark and silky 
 in appearance, being exceedingly well curled, crisp but 
 not brittle. In flavor they are " round," full and mellow. 
 The liquor yielded by them is of a rich golden-yellow 
 color, smooth and fragrant; they are decidedly the most 
 popular tea ever introduced into the American market, 
 all efforts to supplant them proving unavailing. The 
 leaf of the " Second's " is somewhat larger, looser and 
 coarser than that of the first, and not as finely curled. 
 Nevertheless, they possess excellent drinking qualities 
 
Commercial Classification and Description, tog 
 
 and are a favorite tea with consumers from their full, 
 heavy body and mellow, rich flavor. 
 
 The older or later " chops " are greatly inferior, the leaf 
 being of a chaffy nature, containing little or no sap, 
 and apt to be very dusty. 
 
 Formoss OalongSv 
 
 Fifteen years ago Formosa teas were unknown in this 
 Market; at the present time they are very popular. 
 They are grown on the island of that name, and are some- 
 times called "Tamsui Oolongs" from the port of ship- 
 ment, but are mainly shipped to this country from the 
 port of Amoy. 
 
 Formosas differ from all other varieties in the 
 peculiarity of its flavor; said to be imparted to them 
 by the presence of iron in the soil in which they are 
 grown, and absorbed by the plant. Whether this be the 
 case or not, it is certain that to preserve the characteristic 
 qualities of this variety the plant has to be cultivated 
 continually in new places, as the plants grown on the 
 same plantation fail to produce the peculiar flavor of 
 tea after one or two seasons. This fact accounts in a 
 great measure for the wide variation in the quality of 
 Formosa teas from year to year. Unlike other teas the 
 later pickings of Formosa are the richest and strongest, 
 the earlier chops being light-bodied, the flavor fleeting, 
 evanescent or " flashy," that is passing off rapidly when 
 infused. 
 
 The dry leaf of the choicer grades is of a yellowish 
 black cast, evenly curled afld crisp, but not as finely 
 twisted as Foochows of the same grade, but surpassing 
 them in fragrance. A choice Formosa tea, when infused, 
 
io6 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 will fill a small-sized room with a delightful aroma 
 difficult to describe, but variously pronounced as that of 
 the " Primrose," " Jessamine " and " Cowslip," yet 
 really unlike the odor of any plant or flower in the 
 vegetable kingdom, and can at best be only described 
 as "Formosa flavor," pure and simple. 
 
 The liquor is of a straw or golden color, rich and 
 full ; the body possessing great strength and weight, 
 notwithstanding its light drawing appearance. The 
 flavor is fragrant and aromatic, technically termed 
 " Bouquet." The infused leaf is bright-green in color, 
 having a brown edge, caused by fermentation, small and 
 perfectly formed. These teas were for a long period 
 greatly in favor with American tea consumers, but 
 fashion or taste seems to affect tea as well as other 
 things, the demand for them having considerably 
 abated, but is at present writing in.creasing again. 
 The disuse of them for some years was no doubt due in 
 a great measure to the inferiority of the teas imported, 
 and to the substitution in many instances of high grade 
 Amoys in their stead.. 
 
 The leaf of the lower grades is of a dark-brown 
 color, rough and ragged in appearance. The liquor 
 when drawn is dull in color, heavy in body, and " herby " 
 in flavor. 
 
 Are grown in the district of that name south-east of Foo- 
 chow, and separated from the latter district by a range 
 of mountains. Amoy Oolongs are of three kinds, " Ning- 
 yong," "Kokew," and " Mohea." The former are very 
 rich and full, possessing a kind of a hickory-nut flavor. 
 The leaf is very dark in qplor, large but stylish for 
 
Commercial Classification and Description, to'j 
 
 this make. It is contended that if the leaves of this tea 
 were converted into green it would equal a Nankin 
 Moyune in quality. Kokews are very dark in color, 
 bold in style, but lacking in " grip " and pungency ; the 
 flavor is appreciated by some tea drinkers but objected to 
 by others. Mohea Oolongs are very light in drawing 
 qualities, possessing very little strength and are of an 
 indifferent flavor. 
 
 The finer grades of Amoy Oolongs are frequently 
 substituted for medium and common grade Formosa, 
 being labeled and sold as " Formosa Oolongs." It does not 
 require an expert to detect the imposition, as they are 
 totally devoid of that " bouquet " so recognizable in 
 Formosas. 
 
 AakQt Qoi&asB 
 
 Are a doubtful species of the tea plant. They are 
 made from the leaves of a wild shrub, resembling the tea 
 plant, found growing on the range of mountains (Ankoi 
 hills) dividing Foo-chow from Amoy. They are to 
 Black teas what Pingsuey is to Green. Being used for 
 adulterating and mixing with low sometimes medium 
 grades of both Amoy and Foo-chow, but principally 
 Amoys. The leaf is exceedingly rough and coarse in 
 appearance, generally uncurled, reddish brown in color, 
 very unsightly, and upon analysis will be found to differ 
 materially from the genuine leaf. It can readily be 
 detected in the cup after infusion by its dark color, 
 coarse irregular appearance, and general dissimilarity to 
 the gei^uine tea leaf in color, size and form. The flavor, 
 of these teas is of an oily and bitterly astringent nature, 
 said by advocates in its favor to b.e caused by the pres- 
 
to§ A dtjf of tnx. 
 
 enceof iron in the soil where they grow; but this cannot 
 be vouched for. 
 
 Intrinsically these teas have no value as a tea, and 
 greatly impair the quality of any tea they are intro- 
 duced into. 
 
 It is to be hoped that Congress will, at an early 
 period prohibit their importation, as in the case of their 
 Pingsuey prototypes. Anoth,er variety known to trade as 
 
 Pekae OQlQug 
 is a recent innovation among the teas of commerce and not 
 regularly classed. As its name indicates it partakes of 
 the nature of a Pekoe and an Oolong tea. It is really 
 but an Oolong tea scented, and supposed to be prepared 
 from some leaf or variety of black tea that from its 
 nature cannot be used for the preparation of any of the 
 preceding kinds. The dry leaf is jet black in color, evi- 
 dently produced by high firing, and slightly tipped. In 
 flavor they are sharp, bitter and pungent, and slightly 
 resemble Tienke green teas. It is to neutralize this 
 disagreeable feature that Chulan or other flowers are 
 added by way of scenting to this and many other teas. 
 The liquor is much lighter in color than that of Ning- 
 yong Oolong, but lacks its body and that peculiar flavor 
 so desirable in all good teas. 
 
 BOHEA TEAS 
 
 Are really the Black teas of China. They are a distinct 
 variety, differing in color, liquor and flavor from the 
 Oolong species, and known to trade in this country as 
 " English Breakfast" tea, from its forming the staple 
 shipment to England. They are produced in the 
 province of Woo-e-shan, and derive their name from the 
 
Commercial Classification and t)EscRiiPTioN. 109 
 
 Bow-ui, (Bohea) Mountains, where they are grown. 
 .These hills are literally covered with tea plantations, 
 more of these teas being produced than all others com- 
 bined ; being chiefly consumed in England and Russia 
 the demand for them in this country is very limited, 
 all effort to popularize them failing. 
 
 Persons not accustomed to drinking this variety of 
 tea imagine from the dark color of the liquor that it is 
 much stronger than the Oolong variety, the reverse being 
 the case — it requiring one-third leaf more of this kind to 
 make a tea of equal strength to either green or Oolong. 
 The term " Bohea " is applied in England to teas of the 
 lowest grade only. 
 
 Bohea teas comprise Capers, Pekoes, Souchongs, 
 Pouchong and Congous. 
 
 Is known to the Chinese as He-Ghoo tcha (Black Pearl 
 or Gunpowder tea), so named from its leaves being rolled 
 in miniature balls like Gunpowder, but being black in- 
 stead of green. 
 
 It is a scented tea and is of two kinds — Foo-Chow and 
 Canton, so called from being shipped from these ports. 
 The scent of the former is more delicate and aromatic 
 than that of the Canton variety, while the flavor of the 
 latter is more pungent and full. In make it is round 
 or globular, and may be classed as a Black Gunpowder 
 from its resemblance in form to that make of tea. In 
 color it is of a reddish-black and glossy, the finer 
 grades being firmly rolled and shotty. The liquor is 
 dark red, and flavor rich, fragrant and peculiar to itself. 
 Caper teas are rarely imported into this country, but are 
 common in England where among some classes they 
 are popular. 
 
tid A dup OF Tea. 
 
 This variety is extensively counterfeited in Canton 
 by grinding exhausted leaves, or the dust of other teas, 
 mixing with iron filings, gypsum or some other gluti- 
 nous substance, rolled into small balls and then faced 
 with graphite or black lead to give them " style." 
 
 The term Pekoe is a corruption of the Chinese word 
 Pak-ho, signifying " White down," the leaves of this 
 variety being tipped at the ends with a whitish substance 
 resembling down. They are divided into two kinds, 
 Foo-chow and Canton, and like Caper are scented teas 
 which tea they resemble in character. The former are 
 the highest scented, but yields on infusion a weaker 
 liquor. They are principally exported to England where 
 they are in great favor among the working classes. 
 There are two varieties : 
 
 A long flat leaf tea, well and evenly made, one make of 
 which is known as " Spider leg," from the texture and 
 fineness of the leaf, the latter being very delicate in flavor. 
 In color it is of a yellowish black, or olive hue, the ends 
 being tipped with a whitish downy substance from which 
 they derive their name, and are mainly composed of the 
 earlier chops. The difierence in flavor between Orange 
 and Flowery Pekoes consists chiefly in the difference of 
 the blossoms or flowers used in their scenting. Orange 
 blossom being used in the former, while the petals or 
 leaves of the jessamine, gardinea or aglacia are used in 
 the latter. The liquor is dark-wine color, and the fra- 
 grance of the finer grades excels that of all other teas, and 
 may be termed superb from its rich " bouquet." The 
 infused leaf is bright green in color and perfect in form. 
 
Commercial Classification and Descrii** ioN. tit 
 
 Is longer in form, flatter in make, and tougher in the dry 
 leaf, being made from the larger leaves of the same crop. 
 The length of the leaf is often more than double that 
 of a choice Japan tea, which leaf it resembles in make. 
 The dry leaf is jet black with white tips at the ex- 
 tremity of the leaf, but when infused the leaf is green 
 and somewhat resembles that of Oolong. In flavor it is 
 closely allied to Orange Pekoe, but diiters much in the 
 character of scent. In scented teas those that are of an 
 olive cast in the dry leaf and of a rich green when in- 
 fused are the finest. 
 
 In commerce the term Pekoe is applied to black tea 
 only, but in China it is used to describe an expensive 
 variety of green tea known as " Hyson Pekoe," called 
 by the Chinese Loong Tsien — (Dragon-well tea) — 
 literally meaning, " 'J'ea-of-the-wells-of-the-Dragon," 
 which, owing to its extreme delicacy and tenderness, 
 and to the fact of its being very lightly fired in its 
 curing, is never sent out of the country, as it will not 
 withstand the cold and damp of a sea-voyage. 
 
 Both Caper and Pekoe teas are frequently purchased 
 in China in their natural state, and a contract entered 
 into afterwards for the tea to be scented up to a certain 
 standard. 
 
 Is a corruption of the Chinese term Saow-Cheong, 
 signifying "Little or scarce sort," and mainly composed 
 of the leaves of the second " chop " or picking of the 
 Bohea variety of Chinese teas, the chop being usually 
 small and limited. There are but two kinds of this 
 variety made as far as known — " Lapsing " and " Padre." 
 
112 A Cup of fEA. 
 
 Is a variety of Foo-chow tea, the leaf of which, although 
 well and finely curled, is large and bold. The dry leaf 
 is of a reddish hue. In the cup. the liquor is of a rich 
 wine color, and possesses a flavor peculiar to itself 
 alone, and as near as can be described " tarry," a flavor 
 strongly objected to by tea-drinkers in this country, but 
 highly prized for this peculiarity in England. It is, 
 however, pungent and pleasing, when this " tarriness " 
 is not too great : it adds to the pungency of the tea, 
 but, should this tarry flavor be too strong, it will de- 
 tract very materially from the value of the tea. The 
 second and third grades of this variety are of less 
 strength, being much more mellow and softer than the 
 first — pleasing often where the first fails. 
 
 Differs in color and character from Lapsing, and is a 
 specially cured tea for the Russian market. The leaf is 
 larger in size and flat or folded in form ; sometimes of 
 a dark-crapy color, but more frequently of a dark-yellow- 
 ish hue with a tendency to black, due to the fact of 
 being less fired than other teas. The infusion is clear, 
 goldep, and aromatic. This variety being forwarded to 
 Russia overland by caravan, they do not require as 
 high a firing, and will not withstand for this reason the 
 damp of a sea-voyage. To this cause may be attributed 
 much of the reputation attached to these teas for super- 
 iority over all other teas of this class, the cold, dry 
 climate of Siberia not affecting their flavor, as is too 
 often the case with teas exported by sea. This theory 
 has been fully demonstrated in the importation of Japan 
 
Commercial Classii'icatIon and DESCRiWioW. 113 
 
 teas to this country. The teas brought across the 
 Pacific Ocean being markedly better in flavor than teas 
 of the same class imported round the Cape of Good 
 Hope or via the Suez Canal, and said to be due to the 
 former being kept nearly in the same latitude during 
 the entire voyage. 
 
 Is a corruption of the Chinese term Paeow-chorig mean- 
 ing " Folded or wrapped sort," and is applied to a kind 
 of the Bohea variety usually put up in pound and half 
 pound paper packages. It has a bold, rough, flat and 
 dry leaf, and a dull, peculiar scent imparted to it by 
 being plentifully sprinkled with the small red seeds of 
 the Lan-hoa or " Chulan flower," from whicii fact it is 
 also known as Chulan tea. It was at one time a very 
 popular tea in the American market, but from being 
 extensively adulterated and counterfeited here and in 
 China, with exhausted and spurious leaves, the demand 
 for it has nearly died out. The finer grades of the gen- 
 uine tea are deemed pleasing in flavor with those prefer- 
 ring a scented tea. 
 
 Tfiis variety of make of tea is called by the Chinese 
 Koong-foo, meaning " Laborious or assiduous sort," 
 more labor and time being expended in its preparation. 
 It is fired oftener and higher than the other sorts of 
 this variety. Congou teas are divided into two sorts, 
 " Red-leaf"' and " Black-leaf." The former comprising 
 Ning-Chows, Oonfas, Oopacks, Kin-tucks and Kiu- 
 Kiangs ; the latter embracing Kaisows, Sue-Kuts, Sin- 
 Chunes, Saryunes, Ching-Wos and Paklins. 
 
tt4 A Cuf OP Tea. 
 
 Is one of the finest of what is known to trade as " Hon- 
 ing district teas." The dry leaf is small and finely curled, 
 greyish black in color, and frequently sprinkled with 
 Pekoe tips. The infused or drawn leaf bright brown, 
 with a tendency to red, the liquor is dark red, flavor 
 delicate and aromatic, bordering on Pekoe It is chiefly 
 exported to Russia. 
 
 Is the next most important of black-leaf Congou teas. 
 The dry leaf is bolder and rougher in make, not as finely 
 or handsomely made as Ning-Chow, the common grades 
 being open and ragged in appearance. The liquor is 
 very dark in color, body heavy, and flavor strong and 
 tarry, but often sour. 
 
 When new are aromatic but flashy in the cup, partaking 
 somewhat of Pekoe flavor, but lose their flavor rap- 
 idly, becoming flat and brassy with age. • The leaf is of 
 a crapy black, regularly made and bold in appearance,' 
 This variety from its known tendency to rapid decay, is 
 much cheaper than either of the preceding sorts. 
 
 The finer grades of this tea are especially good, often 
 rivalling the choicer grades of Ning-Chow. The liquor 
 is of good color and body full, the infused leaf being 
 redder in color. The dry leaf is irregular, broken, and 
 apt to be dusty, and like Oopack will not keep long. 
 
 The first pickings of this tea are exceedingly fine, but 
 
CoMMfiRCiAL Classification and Description, itg 
 
 the later are entirely lacking in strength, body and 
 flavor. The dry leaf of the first chop is very black in 
 color, uniform in make and invariably clean. The leaf 
 after infusion is bright red and liquor dark wine-color, 
 but is devoid of strength. The flavor is flat and they con- 
 sequently are not of as much value as their appearance in 
 the hand would indicate. Kiu-Kiangs deteriorate much 
 quicker than any other class of tea, not excepting low 
 grade Japans. 
 
 There is another variety of dark-leaved Congou tea 
 called Padre, corresponding in character to Padre Souch- 
 ong, cured in the same manner and for the same market; 
 but none of it ever reaching this market it does not 
 require classification or description. 
 
 Is the finest of the Red-leaf sorts, and partakes of a 
 Souchong in flavor. The leaf is small, finely curled 
 and of a reddish hue. The liquor is thick and rich and 
 body. full. The flavor is defined by some tea-testers as 
 being mild, and tarry. A choice Kaisow by other 
 experts is said to approach that of Mocha coffee in flavor. 
 A cup of really fine Kaisow is said to be most deli- 
 cious, old tea drinkers preferring it to any other tea 
 coming to this market. 
 
 Is also a Kaisow tea of but moderate strength and me- 
 dium quality and having a burnt flavor. The leaf is 
 finely made and handsome in appearance in the hand, 
 but often dusty. 
 
 Is not a large or valued variety. The leaf is mixed, 
 
ii6 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 rough and dusty. The liquor is hard and dull, and 
 flavor objectionable. Fine Sin-Chunes are very scarce. 
 
 Sarjaag G'&Mg&w 
 Is the reddest of red-leaf Congous ; it is not a fine 
 variety, but is considered a serviceable tea. The liquor 
 is dark red, mellow and full, flavor high, brisk but 
 burnt ; the leaf of the first chop is loose and open in 
 make, red in color and firmly curled. The later chops 
 are very dusty, and apt to be sour and rank in the cup, 
 
 OMisg'W& O&ns&u-, 
 When the crop is good, is considered one of the finest 
 of the red-leaf variety; the leaf is tightly curled, but 
 lacks crispiness, and is described as spongy in its nature. 
 The color of the liquor is not as a rule dark, but red, 
 the flavor round and full, for which it is more esteemed 
 than for its body. The finer grades if well cured keep 
 well up to a certain period, improving with time, while 
 the medium and lower grades deteriorate very fast in pro- 
 portion to their roughness and loose make; this feature 
 is markedly the case with all teas that are loosely made, 
 or indifferently cured, for except the leaf is thoroughly 
 fired and crisped, it immediately begins to lose its 
 flavor. 
 
 PmMIim G'&sgQu 
 
 Is a large and important variety, not very dissimilar to 
 Ching-Wo, but does not possess that delicate fullness for 
 which Ching-Wos are esteemed. The infused leaf is 
 bright and tender, and the general qualities are of a 
 superior order; the liquor being dark red in color, body 
 light, and flavor inferior. Although classed as a red 
 leaf Congou, the dry leaf of Paklins, is small, evenly 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. 117 
 
 curled, and blacker than any other tea coming from 
 China. There is another variety of Paklin tea called 
 Paklum, the leaf of which is small, black and often 
 tipped like Pekoe, but of such inferior quality that it 
 is not in much demand, and can hardly be classed among 
 the teas of commerce. 
 
 Is a variety of Ching-Wo which tea it resembles closely 
 but is of a much better style, flavor being sacrificed for 
 appearance. The dry leaf is black and finely curled, 
 the infused leaf being bright and regular; the liquor 
 though of good color, lacks strength and flavor. 
 
 A number of new make Congous are being imported 
 from time to time; among the latter are Tayshans, made 
 in Canton, Macaos, Hoyunes and Ho-Ho\vs; these are 
 very dissimilar in flavor and appearance. Some of these 
 are made to imitate Kaisows, others Monings, etc. Many 
 of them are very flavory, but are lacking in strength 
 and body ; others again are so strong as to be mistaken 
 for Assams and other Indian sorts. Ho-How Congou 
 is the commonest of this description of teas. The leaf 
 is of fair appearance, but in flavor they are " earthy.'' 
 It is termed the Pingsuey of the Congou variety. There 
 is still another variety of Congou called Kut-Oan, re- 
 cently prepared as an experiment from the leaf of the 
 Green tea-plan(s grown in the Nankin Moyune district; 
 none of these teas being received in this country, little is 
 known of their merits. They are said however to equal 
 in every respect the finest Kaisow Congou. 
 
ii8 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Is composed largely of the dust and siftings from all 
 sorts, kinds and qualities of tea and refuse, generally 
 ground up into dust, moistened and compressed into 
 forms somewhat larger than ordinary building brick. It 
 goes, entirely to Russia, (overland by caravan,) Siberia 
 and Mongolia, serving as a currency in the latter country. 
 JAPAN TE^lS 
 
 The first picking of Japan tea which is considered the 
 best occurs about the beginning of May, the second a 
 month later, and the third, often however omitted, 
 usually in the month of July. 
 
 The finest Japan teas are produced in the districts of 
 Uji, Kioto and Ogura, in the province of Yamashiro. 
 The adjoining districts of Omi and Tamba produce teas 
 in much greater quantities ; but, notwithstanding their 
 proximity to Yamashiro, the value of the latter is 
 much higher on account of their superior quality. There 
 are said to be in the village of Uji tea trees two to three 
 hundred years old. 
 
 The flavor of Japan teas in general is exceedingly 
 delicate, rich and peculiar, and unlike that of any of 
 the other varieties. The light-colored liquor and deli- 
 cately fragrant flavor of Japan teas is apt to deceive 
 the casual drinker. It will be found after constant use 
 to possess great strengtli, and the effect upon the ner- 
 vous system is very soon perceptible. 
 
 Japan teas deteriorate twenty per cent, in flavor after 
 the first year. At the expiration of that period the leaf 
 becomes tough and assumes a reddish tinge. The 
 liquor will be dark in color and acquire a fishy or 
 "mealy" taste. 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. 119 
 
 Japan teas are commercially classified as Pan-fired or 
 "Natural Leaf," Basket-fired, Sun-dried, Oolongs, 
 Congous, occasionally Pekoes, Gunpowders and Impe- 
 rials are prepared. These terms denote method of 
 curing, make, or style of leaf. 
 
 Or " Natural Leaf," Japan teas, derive their name from 
 (1) being cured in iron pans by the Chinese process, 
 and (2) from their green or natural appearance, not 
 being allowed to ferment, and cured after the manner of 
 the green teas of China, which teas they were originally 
 intended to imitate. 
 
 The dry leaf of the choicer grades of Japan is of an 
 olive-green color, presenting an unbroken and well 
 curled appearance. When boiling water is poured on 
 them they will sink immediately to the bottom of the 
 cup and uncurl rapidly, showing more or less perfectly- 
 formed leaves. Tliey yield a ri^ch, light-golden liquor, 
 which remains unchanged in appearance until cold. 
 They are delicate and fragrant in flavor, partaking 
 somewhat of the scent of new-mown hay. 
 
 The so-called " Second " and " Third Chops " of this 
 make are rough, coarse and carelessly made, in appear- 
 ance varying from a full green to a bluish leaden hue, 
 imparted to them by the coloring matter used in their 
 preparation. They are usually highly colored, to make 
 them appear like " First Chop " teas ; when no " cos- 
 metics " are used in their preparation, the leaf is of a 
 yellow, motley hue. They possess a weedy, often a fishy 
 flavor, said to be contracted from the use of dead leaves. 
 
I20 A Cup oe Tea. 
 
 and on the coast fish being used as a manure. These are 
 known to trade as 
 
 The material used in the coloring of the poorer 
 grades of Japan teas is not generally known, it being 
 a secret among the manufacturers. Some experts say it 
 is gypsum, others soapstone. The Japanese maintain that 
 it is a vegetable compound. That soapstone is used for 
 this purpose can hardly be denied. Kaolin or soapstone 
 contains sulphur, and many of the colored Japan teas will 
 be found to possess a strong sulphurous flavor. It has, 
 however, whatever its nature may be, been proved harm- 
 less, and is only used in the preparation of poor teas, for 
 the purpose of making these inferior sorts salable aad 
 pleasing to the eye. 
 
 Are so named from being cured in small bamboo 
 baskets over a slow charcoal fire, and in contradistinc- 
 tion to those cured in iron pans, or Chinege method. 
 Thoy do not differ from other Japan teas except in the 
 color of the leaves, which are of a dark almost black- 
 greenish color. In flavor they are apt to be of a grassy 
 or uncooked taste, attributed to the process of prepara- 
 tion. Yet, lately, this description has been growing in 
 favor. They are not as finely curled as the pan-fired, 
 but make an excellent tea for blending purposes. 
 
 The lower grades of this variety are rough, coarse 
 and uncouth in appearance, heavy in body, and dark in 
 liquor. 
 
 Japan teas are so-named from being fermented like 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. 121 
 
 Chinese black teas in the sun before being fired, the 
 firing being also by the "basket" process. They 
 resemble the basket-fired teas in many respects, but are 
 somewhat darker in color. In flavor they are " toasty," 
 the fermentation to which they are submitted before being 
 fired destroying to a great extent the grassy or uncooked 
 flavor so characteristic of the basket-fired Japans. 
 
 Are cured by the same method adopted by the Chinese 
 in the preparation of that variety of tea, hence their 
 name. The only resemblance they have to these teas, 
 however, is in appearance, they still retaining all the 
 peculiarities of liquor and flavor which distinguish 
 Japan teas. They are much darker and coarser in 
 leaf than either Basket-fired or Sun-dried teas. Of this 
 make, the same may be said with the exception that the 
 leaf is black instead of dark, and possesses a toasty or 
 burnt flavor, due to the high firing to which they are 
 subjected. They bear a strong resemblance to India 
 Souchongs in make and appearance. 
 
 iSMVUiat 
 
 Latterly the Japanese, owing to the fact that America 
 is the only country that will use Japan teas as cured by 
 them, have been endeavoring to convert their surplus 
 leaf into Congous and other varieties of that order, but 
 as yet with little success. Japan Congous have all the 
 appearance of Congou tea in the leaf, but are thin 
 bodied in the cup, and said to possess an aciduous flavor 
 the reverse of palatable. Some experts, however, con- 
 tend that the defect will be remedied in time, when the 
 Japanese have learned the art of properly fermenting 
 
123 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 the leaf. To the imperfect knowledge of this process 
 the fault is attributed. 
 
 Are similar in many respects to India Pekoes, but 
 like the Oolong and Congou makes of this variety, 
 their characteristic Japan flavor cannot be disguised, 
 differing from other Japans in nothing but style of leaf. 
 They are said by some to be " malty " in flavor, but are 
 lacking in strength and distinctive qualities. 
 
 Differ from other Japan teas only in make and form of 
 leaf. They are prepared in the same manner as their 
 Chinese prototypes, but still retain their original flavor. 
 They are not produced in any quantity, as it was found 
 they were not a popular tea. 
 
 Japan teas were first introduced into this country in 
 1856, the shipment consisting of but fifty half chests. 
 The following year this was increased to four hundred. 
 In the year 1858 it reached eleven hundred. All the 
 Japan teas imported at that time were dark in color, 
 being "basket-fired." The consumption steadily in- 
 creased until at one time it reached the enormous figure 
 of twenty million pounds. 
 
 This rapid increase in the demand for Japan teas 
 was attributed to two causes. The first receipts were of 
 the choicest kinds, and the strong prejudice then exist- 
 ing against Chinese green teas under the impression that 
 coloring matter was used extensively in the preparation 
 of all green teas. 
 
 About 1862 the Japanese changed their mode of cur- 
 ing their teas, adopting that of the Chinese in the pre- 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. 123 
 
 paration of greens, hence the trade term " Uncolored 
 Japan teas." 
 
 The effect of the change was to alter the color of the 
 leaf from the dark green of the basket-firing process to 
 the light green of the unfermented pan-firing, and at 
 the same time to impart to the teas thetoasty flavor pro- 
 duced by the latter process, instead of the grassy or 
 uncooked flavor which was so objectionable in the former. 
 
 At the present time the supply of Japan teas is greatly 
 in excess of the demand, and the price has declined 
 accordingly, in many instances below the cost of pro- 
 duction. This cause, tak^n in connection with the fact 
 that Japan teas as now cured, are used almost exclu- 
 sively in this country, England, the greatest tea-drink- 
 ing nation in the world, only using small quantities of 
 them, has induced the Japanese to convert their surplus 
 leaf into Oolongs, Congous, Gunpowders and Imperials 
 with the expectation of popularizing them in Europe. 
 
 For this purpose they have imported Chinese labor- 
 ers, skilled in the art of preparing tea, from the tea dis- 
 tricts of China, to assist them in their experiments. 
 
 The results so far have not proved as satisfactory as 
 was anticipated, but before a very long time it is ex- 
 pected that they will produce all the different descrip- 
 tions now received from China and India. It is main- 
 tained by some authorities that a tea rivalling the finest 
 Formosa can be prepared from the Japan plant. The 
 proportion of really choice Japan teas exported is very 
 small comparitively, not more than one pound to every 
 two hundred of the crop. 
 
 More of this variety of tea is imported and consumed 
 
124 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 in this country than all other kinds combined, being 
 principally sold in the Western and Pacific States. 
 
 INDIA TEAS. 
 Are classed among the Black teas of commerce ; a few 
 greens have been recently produced there of the Im- 
 perial and Hyson order, but not in sufficiant quantities 
 as yet to warrant a speciaL^or detailed description. 
 
 India teas approximate nearest to the Bohea or 
 " English Breakfast" variety of China, closely re- 
 sembling them in color, make and flavor. Many of the 
 Indian species, however, being grown from a combina- 
 tion of the Assam and China plants, are hybrid, and 
 differ in some essentials from their Chinese prototypes, 
 but being now prepared and manipulated by the pro- 
 cesses adopted in China, are analogous to them in exter- 
 nal appearance and other respects. 
 
 The teas produced in India for the past ten years 
 have improved wonderfully in style and quality, com- 
 bining strength and fragrance, but still lack the smooth- 
 ness, softness and mellowness of the better Chinese 
 grades. They are comparatively a new tea in the 
 American market, and their merits have not been fully 
 tested. 
 
 The leaf of the choicer grades of Indian teas is 
 longer and narrower than that of the corresponding 
 Chinese variety, are darker in color, shapely in form 
 and heavy and strong in flavor. 
 
 India teas are rarely sold or used by themselves, but 
 are extensively employed for blending purposes, their 
 great strength and high peculiar flavor rendering them 
 very valuable for this purpose. 
 
 They are principally mixed with the weaker bodied 
 
Commercial Classification and Descrimion. laj 
 
 and lighter flavored China teas, and are found to impart 
 to such teas strength, body, and a flavor of a pleasing 
 and palatable nature. 
 
 They are packed differently from either China or 
 Japan teas, heavy teak boxes being used, and never 
 matted or canvassed. 
 
 There is one remarkable difference between India 
 teas and those of China and Japan. It is that while the 
 two latter yield but three, or at the outside four chops in 
 a single year, each " chop" being different in character 
 and respectively inferior in quality to the preceding one, 
 there is nothing in the respective "chops" of Indian 
 teas to indicate their relation to any particular chop or 
 picking; and, again, the number of pickings from Indian 
 teas are considerably greater according to the climatic 
 influence of the districts of growth. When everything 
 is favorable India plants will yield as many as sixteen 
 "flushes" (pickings), while ordinarily they average from 
 five to seven pickings in a season. 
 
 India teas comprise Assams, Darjeelings, Cachars, 
 Kangras, Dehra-Doons, and Chittagongs, terms denoting 
 districts of production. 
 
 Are nearly always strong, heavy and pungent, thick 
 and rich. The leaf is of a dull greyish-black color 
 when dry, and of a reddish-brown when infused. The 
 finer grades are artistically curled, well made, and abound 
 with Pekoe tips. 
 
 -Are high flavored, full and heavy, but not quite as pun- 
 gent as Assams. The leaf is blacker and not as well 
 twisted. The infused leaf is tender and bright brown 
 
126 A Cxrp OF Tea. 
 
 in color; for full flavor strength and body, the finer 
 sorts are unequaled, while that of the lower grades is 
 soft and insipid. Darjeelings tea are mostly raised from 
 China seeds. 
 
 Are between Assams and Darjeelings, not as pungent 
 as the former, nor as flavory as the latter, yet nevertheless 
 a good tea of the kind. The leaf is blacker than the 
 Assam, but not as black as that of Darjeeling ; the 
 liquor mellow and frequently fruity, with a slightly 
 burnt tendency. The Cachar plant is a hybrid com- 
 posed of the India and China shrub. 
 
 Are fine, delicate and aromatic in flavor, and considered 
 by some experts as superior to Darjeelings; the body 
 however is thin and weak. The leaf when dry is of a dark 
 brownish color, but when infused a very bright brown. 
 
 Are chiefly weak in body, highly fired and somewhat 
 sour in flavor, by many considered " clayey " or muddy. 
 They are the poorest of this class of teas, and not much 
 sought after. 
 
 OhittssQsgs 
 
 Are strong and heavy in body, and nutty in flavor; they 
 are considered a valuable tea for these characteristics, 
 and much in demand for their strength and other qualities. 
 India teas are sub-classified into Flowery and Orange 
 Pekoes, Pekoes, Pekoe-Souchongs, Souchongs, Congous 
 and Broken-Leaf. 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. 127 
 
 INDIAN SUB-VARIETIES. 
 
 Is the finest sort of India tea. It is prepared from the 
 youngest and smallest leaves at the end of the shoots. 
 It is cured in a peculiar manner and with the greatest 
 care, so that it may turn out almost white after firing. 
 The dry leaf is small, finely curled, and, if choice, 
 whitish in color, but after infusion of a bright, reddish- 
 brown. The brighter the infused leaf the higher the 
 quality, and consequently the more valuable. 
 
 Ranks next in grade to Flowery Pekoe, and is very 
 choice. It is cured with as much care and attention. 
 The dry leaf is of a grayish-black color, having a 
 plentiful supply of yellow ends, called tips ; the greater 
 the number of these tips the more valuable the tea. 
 Orange Pekoes are stronger than the Flowery, but not 
 considered as rich or fragrant. 
 
 Plain Pekoe is bolder in style than the preceding kinds, 
 has fewer tips and unscented ; but in body, strength and 
 fragrance, is often equal. The leaf although rougher 
 in appearance and loosely made is no larger. 
 
 Is a grade between Pekoe and Souchong, as its name 
 implies. It is made from the leaves that have matured 
 more than those from either of the preceding varieties, 
 and, consequently, not as fine or as tender. It however 
 has many advantages over them, being more useful, 
 both for strength and flavor, cleaner, less impure, and 
 answering for the same purposes, being heavy and pun- 
 gent in the cup. 
 
128 A Cw OF Tea. 
 
 Are coarse in appearance and rough in make, lacking 
 weight and pungency, and used principally for mixing 
 with the poorer and dustier sorts of India teas. 
 
 Are prepared from the oldest and largest leaves of the 
 later crops. They are coarse, rough and ragged in ap- 
 pearance, and possess hardly any redeeming qualities 
 to recommend them ; the liquor being bitter, astringent 
 and watery, and flavor rank. 
 
 BmksB-iteaff 
 As its name implies, is made from the larger leaves (cut up) 
 that will not answer for any of the preceding varieties. 
 They are frequently remarkable for their great strength 
 of body and flavor, being full and heavy, but lacking 
 in delicacy or smoothness. They make a valuable tea 
 for blending, imparting strength and fulness to any 
 light-drawing teas with which they are mixed. 
 
 CEYLON TEAS 
 Are comparatively new to commerce and entirely un- 
 known to the American market, being exclusively shipped 
 to and consumed in England ; they are classed among the 
 Black teas of commerce, closely resembling the Indian 
 growths in color, flavor and style, and are known to trade 
 as Ruan Wallas, Kandaloyas, Sembawatties, Mariawat- 
 ties and Windsor Forrests, plantation names, and from 
 their style of " makes " divided into Pekoes, Broken- 
 Pekoes, Pekoe-Souchongs, and Broken-Leaf. Of these 
 teas a recent report says, "Ceylon teas have latterly 
 greatly improved in every respect, and some of the "Tea 
 breaks " are quite equal to the better class of Indian 
 
Commercial Classification and Description. 129 
 
 growths, proving that with more care in their culture 
 and manufacture, these teas may become in time, as pop- 
 ular with the consumer as Indian Teas now are." The 
 annual product of Ceylon teas is roundly estimated at 
 writing to be 8,000,000 lbs. 
 
 JAVA TEAS. 
 
 All teas grown in Java are converted into either 
 Pekoes, Souchongs or Congous. They are all, however, 
 similar in flavor, approximating to the Indian variety 
 known as Assam. The leaf is jet black, and rather 
 handsome in appearance. The flavor strong, peculiar, 
 and pungent almost to acidity, but like its Indian proto- 
 type said to be valued for its blending qualities only. 
 
 In Java, picking and curing is carried on nearly the 
 whole year round, Labor there, too, is cheaper than in 
 China or Japan. During the time of picking, the leaves 
 are graded according to size, separated, and from the 
 diflferent sizes are made the different kinds known to 
 commerce. 
 
 The smallest and tenderest leaves are converted into 
 Pekoe ; the next size to Souchong, and the larger and 
 older leaves into Congou. They are packed in chests 
 containing from 80 to 100 lbs. net, and principally 
 shipped to Holland, where they are chiefly consumed. 
 Some few go to England, and occasionally a small lot 
 finds its way to this country. 
 
 SINGAPORE AND PENANC TEAS. 
 
 Are coarse in make, wild in flavor and almost entirely 
 unknown to commerce. 
 
t^a A Cup of Tea. 
 
 CRADINCS. 
 
 A standard invoice of Green teas contains a number of 
 lines made up as follows : 
 
 No. 1 Gunpowder, 
 " 2 " 
 " 1 Imperial, 
 " 2 " 
 " 3 " 
 
 No. 1 Young Hyson, 
 " 2 " 
 
 " 3 " 
 
 " 1 Hyson, 
 " 2 " 
 
 T wan key. 
 
 There are rarely more than two lines of Hyson and 
 never more than one of Twankey. 
 
 An Invoice of Oolong consists of four lines, Firsts, 
 Seconds, Thirds and Fourths. 
 
 An Invoice of an English Breakfast, includes Caper, 
 Pekoe, Souchong, Congou and Pouchong^ 
 
 An Invoice of Japans, Pan-fired or Uncolored, Basket- 
 fired, Sun-dried and Colored. 
 
 An Invoice of Indian, Pekoe, Souchong, Congou and 
 Broken leaf. 
 
 These are again subdivided into brackets and numbers. 
 The term " Muster " on a tea chest, means sample 
 packages. The term " S. S. Diamond " or " Via_ Suez 
 Canal " at top of label. Vessel imported in or route re- 
 ceived by. The initials in center of label are those of 
 the importer. The terms " Tong Lee," " Tong Mow," 
 etc., name of Chinese packer, and name at bottom of 
 label that of the Shipper. The Chinese character or 
 " Chop Mark " on side of the tea chest denotes the chop 
 or picking, but cannot always be relied on. 
 
Chapter Vll. 
 ADULTEEATION AND DETECTION. 
 
 ADULTERATION. 
 
 The sophistications to which teas are 'sometimes sub- 
 jected have received the careful attention of chemists and 
 others interested in their use, but not, perhaps, to as great 
 an extent as the importance of the subject merits. 
 
 For consumnjate skill in the " tricks of the trade," the 
 Chinese, as a people, have long been proverbial. " They 
 are a self-ended people," says an old writer, " having 
 the same reputation in Asia that the Jews have in Europe." 
 
 Yet though the greater portion of the adulteration of 
 teas is performed in China there are strong reasons for 
 believing that both English and American dealers have 
 become expert imitators. The adulteration of tea being 
 a constant practice in this country and England, in so 
 much so that it has given rise to a special branch of in- 
 dustry and is carried on to a greater extent than many 
 people imagine. 
 
 The chief adulterants employed by the Chinese are : 
 
 (1.) Organic substances comprising Prussian blue, 
 gypsum, indigo, turmeric and China clay, an iridescent 
 or whitish powder resembling mica, variously composed 
 but usually consisting of Kaolin or soapstone and sul- 
 phate of lime. These preparations are used only on 
 green teas, and for the purpose of coloring and glazing 
 spurious and inferior teas. 
 
 (2.) Vegetable substitutes consisting of exhausted 
 leaves and the leaves of foreign plants, such as the 
 
t^i A Cup of Tea. 
 
 willow, ash and plam, with the intention of increasing 
 the bulk and reducing the cost. The Chinese annually 
 dry millions of pounds of the leaves of these last-named 
 plants to mingle with genuine teas. 
 
 (3.) Mineral matter, including silica, metallic iron 
 and steel filitigs ; these last are introduced with the 
 object of adding extra weight to the teas. 
 
 The artificial coloring or " facing " of green teas is, 
 perhaps, the most extensive form of adulteration that is 
 carried on. With regard to this practice, it is safe to 
 assert that few, if any, of the poorer grades of green and 
 so-called " natural color" Japan teas are free from arti- 
 ficial coloring. 
 
 The process of coloring teas artificially in use in 
 China and adopted by the Japanese, is as follows: 
 
 A portion of Prussian blue is put into a porcelain 
 bowl and crashed into a fine powder. A quantity of 
 gypsum is burned, pulverized and mixed with it in the 
 proportion of four parts of the former to three of the 
 latter. The compound is then scattered over the leaves 
 and rubbed rapidly with both hands, so as to equally 
 diffuse the coloring matter. A glossy appearance is 
 then imparted to the leaves by the application of the 
 Kaolin or soapstone mixture. This is known as the 
 glazing process. This glossy or greasy green color is 
 entirely different from the healthy natural green of un- 
 adulterated teas. 
 
 The adulteration of black teas is efiFected by the aid 
 of exhausted leaves; that is leaves that have been 
 already used, and of which there is an abundance 
 in China, tea being the national beverage, and from 
 foreign or spurious leaves. 
 
AnuLTERAtiOK AUD Detection. 133 
 
 The exhausted leaves are re-dried and mixed with a 
 solution of gum or terra japonica, so as to make them 
 retain their curl. Thej are then glossed or " faced" 
 with a compound composed of rose-pink, graphite or 
 black-lead. 
 
 Logwood or catechu is also employed for the purpose 
 of imparting a tea-like color to the liquor when drawn, 
 the exhausted leaves being nearly and the spurious 
 leaves entirely devoid of the principle (tannin) to which 
 pure teas owe their color. The logwood and catechu 
 (soluble salts of iron) are applied to impart an artificial 
 color and apparent strength. 
 
 The spurious leaves are cured and prepared in the 
 same manner as regular tea, but undergoes the same 
 process of coloring and facing as the exhausted leaves, 
 Kaolin or soapstone being used in addition to impart a 
 deceptive bloom to the leaves. These teas are never 
 sold by themselves) but are used to blend with inferior 
 black tea. 
 
 In the restoration of the poorer grades of black teas 
 in England, exhausted leaves and the leaves of the 
 beech, elm, willow, chestnut, poplar, hawthorne and 
 sloe are extensively used. 
 
 The coloring substances differ ; but are considered still 
 more dangerous and injurious than those used by the 
 Chinese. 
 
 It is a significant fact that the Chinese never use ar- 
 tificially colored teas themselves. 
 DETECTION. 
 
 The adulterations under the first heading are readily 
 detected by the following simple process : 
 
1^4 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Put a small sample of the tea suspected of being 
 colored iu a cup or other vessel and pour on hot or cold 
 water, hot being preferred ; stir well for two or three 
 minutes, then strain the liquor through a thin muslin 
 cloth, the fine coloring matter will pass through and 
 form a sediment at the bottom of the cup. If this de- 
 posit is treated with a preparation of chlorine or a solu- 
 tion of chloride of lime and turns white the coloring 
 substance will prove to be indigo ; but if treated with a 
 little potash and becomes brown it is Prussian blue. 
 The application of sulphuric acid will turn it blue again. 
 This test is necessary only when the tea is lightly colored. 
 
 When heavily colored the coloring substance will be 
 found floating on the top of the liquor, or adhering to 
 the sides of the cup or vessel in which it is drawn. 
 
 It can also be discovered by placing a sample of the 
 heavily-colored tea on a piece of glass or smooth table, 
 the coloring matter will adhere to the hand, glass or 
 table. 
 
 Another test, known as the " ash test," is as follows : 
 Take a small quantity of the leaves and weigh them, 
 then burn them on a pan over a stove or spirit lamp 
 and preserve the ashes. Put the ashes ifito a cup of 
 water and let them dissolve ; then find what percentage 
 of insoluble matter remains. If the sample is pure, 
 not over 6 per cent, of the ashes will be found to 
 remain insoluble; if adulterated, from 10 to 12 per 
 cent, of ashes will remain insoluble. 
 
 Another simpler experiment is to infuse a sample of 
 the suspected tea in a cup of water, the sample being 
 weighed before being put in. After drawing for five 
 minutes, if the tea be pure, it will be found to have lost 
 
AtotlLTteRATION AND DETECTION. 1$$ 
 
 50 per cent, of its original weight, but if adulterated, 
 but 20 per cent, will be lost. 
 
 Canton made teas being composed of tea-dust, the dust 
 of exhausted leaves, ground, or of damaged tea, agglutin- 
 ized with gum and other starchy substances to make 
 them adhere, and rolled in the form of Capers. Gun- 
 powders and Imperials, for which teas it is either sold 
 or mixed with. 
 
 This fabrication is exposed in the following manner : 
 
 Place a sample of the tea in a cup and- pour on 
 boiling water. If the tea is spurious the globules 
 will be found to disintegrate rapidly and dissolve, form- 
 ing a gluey or starchy precipitate at the bottom of the cup. 
 
 By adding a small quantity of iodine to the deposit 
 the glue will be separated, and the dust remain. 
 
 These teas may also be detected by the " ash test," by 
 incinerating a quantity of the so-called leaves as before 
 described. If spurious, 30 to 40 per cent, of ash will 
 remain ; while, if pure, only 6 per cent, of ash is found. 
 Half of this latter quantity may again be dissolved if 
 placed in hot water. 
 
 Black teas are most exposed to adulteration with ex- 
 hausted leaves and the leaves of other plants. 
 
 The addition of exhausted leaves to pure teas is de- 
 tected by determining the amount of tannin, ash and 
 insoluble matter contained in the liquor and residue. 
 
 The first estimate is best obtained by means of a 
 standardized solution of plumbic acetate. When added 
 to the liquor, which must first be drawn off, the plumbic 
 acetate will cause the tannin to precipitate. If the tea 
 be adulterated, but 2 per cent, of tannin is rarely found, 
 whereas 10 to 12 per cent, is contained in genuine teas 
 under the same conditions. 
 
136 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 The extent of this species of adulteration will there- 
 fore be indicated by the lessened proportions of tannic 
 acid contained in the sample under examination. 
 
 Catechu, or soluble salts- of iron, is also principally 
 used in the adulteration of black teas. Its presence in 
 teas is determined by making an infusion of the leaves 
 and allowing it to cool ; then adding a preparation of 
 neutral plumbic acetate. 
 
 Separate the precipitate formed by this last chemical 
 and add a little argentic nitrate to the filtrate, if catechu, 
 or salts of iron be present the residue will turn dark 
 brown, the liquor meanwhile acquiring a deep yellow in 
 color, while under the same conditions the liquor of a 
 pure tea will remain unaffected. 
 
 The addition of a weak solution of ferric chloride will 
 cause the precipitates to turn a light green. 
 
 If catechu be extensively employed, it can be readily 
 detected by the aid of the microscope. 
 
 The* adulterations of black teas may also be detected 
 by the " asli test," the same as greens. 
 
 In genuine black teas the amount of ash rarely exceeds 
 6 per cent., 2 per cent, of this being soluble in hot 
 water. Any increase of these figures, particularly of 
 the soluble portions, being a sure indication of the pre- 
 sence of exhausted leaves or other adulteration. In some 
 instances of adulteration, the ash residue reaches the 
 proportions of 76 to 85 per cent, of the incinerated 
 sample. 
 
 In order to detect the presence of foreign or spurious 
 leaves in teas, an intimate acquaintance with the botani- 
 cal formation of the leaf of the tea-plant is requisite, 
 and the use of the microscope is usually necessary. 
 
Adulteration and Detection. 
 
 t37 
 
 Foreign leaves will be easily recognized by the fol- 
 lowing experiment : 
 
 Treat a sample of tea with hot water, the same as in 
 making an ordinary infusion ; then separate the leaves 
 and uncurl them, laying them flat upon a table, and 
 compare with the annexed out. 
 
 See that the leaves agree with it in description and 
 formation, but more especially in their venations and 
 serrations.^ 
 
 The leaves of pure teas will be of a bright-green 
 color when drawn and unfolded ; the looping together 
 of the principal veinings in the genuine leaf being very 
 characteristic, while artificially-colored or spurious 
 leaves, when deprived of their cosmetics^ are either 
 yellow, black or reddish-brown in color. 
 
 The presence of metallic iron and steel filings in tea 
 is readily detected by powdering a sample of tea and 
 applying a magnet to the powder, the particles, if any, 
 gravitating and adhering to the magnet. 
 
 Silica is best discerned by the increased amount of 
 ash insoluble in water, obtained by calcining a sample 
 of the tea. As stated before, pure teas contain 6 per 
 cent, and adulterated teas 12 per cent, and upwards. 
 
138 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Catechu is detected by pulverizing a quantity of the 
 leaves, burning the powder with a few drops of acetic 
 acid, and then testing the solution with potassic 
 ferrocyanide. 
 
 Graphite can be separated by treating the leaves with 
 hot water and, evaporating the infusion. The sub- 
 stance, if any is contained in the tea, will form a de- 
 posit of a dark, shiny color at the bottom, or adhere to 
 the sides of the cup. 
 
 Logwood is best detected by the addition of a few 
 drops of sulphuric acid to a drawing of the tea. If 
 any logwood is present, the acid will cause the liquor to 
 turn a deep red. 
 
 Ep,brication^ of teas in general may be exposed 
 by the treatment of the leaves suspected of being colored, 
 faced or otherwise adulterated, with hot or boiling 
 water in the form of an infusion. 
 
 The coloring or facing in the majority of cases be- 
 coming detached, floating on the top, depositing at the 
 bottom or adhering to the sides of the vessel. 
 
 Prussian blue will be discerned in most cases by draw- 
 ing the tea with a preparation of caustic soda and acid- 
 ulating the filtrate with hydrochloric acid, and adding 
 ferric chloride when a deep blue color will be produced. 
 
 Indigo and turmeric can be frequently recognized by 
 a microscopic examination. • 
 
 Graphite is nearly always visible to the naked eye," 
 being easily distinguished by its characteristic glossy 
 appearance. 
 
 The liquor of pure teas generally will not turn black 
 when treated with a watery solution of sulphuretted 
 hydrogen or impart a blue color to a solution of am- 
 monia. 
 
Chapter YIII. 
 
 THE ART OF TESTING, BLENDING, AND 
 PREPARING. 
 
 TESTING. 
 
 Teas have two values ; one, their intrinsic or real 
 value; the other, their commercial or market value. 
 Their drinking qualities (strength and flavor) consti- 
 tute their intrinsic value ; the commercial value is 
 governed iu a great measure by their make and appear- 
 ance. 
 
 As a rule retailers experience more diiBculty in 
 selecting teas to suit their trade than with any other 
 article they handle. 
 
 The cause of this difficulty is obvious ; there being 
 such a variety of kinds, flavors and grades of teas, and 
 such a diversity of tastes to be catered to, that it re- 
 quires no ordinary knowledge or skill to make the selec- 
 tion, yet these may be readily acquired by repeated trials 
 and a few experiments to familiarize one's self with the 
 peculiarities in flavor of the various kinds and the 
 merits of the different qualities. 
 
 In the selection of a good tea four things are essential ; 
 style, color, flavor and body; the drinking qualities 
 should be the first consideration ; after that their appear- 
 ance. Many teas, though rough and unsightly in style, 
 draw and drink exceedingly well. 
 
140 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 There are five methods by which a good tea may be 
 recognized : 
 
 Appearance 
 
 Has considerable to do in denoting the quality of a fine 
 tea. Choice teas of all kinds are invariably handsomely 
 made, being well and compactly rolled if of the Gunpow- 
 der or Imperial order, and of a natural color when of the 
 green tea variety. If a tea be of the curled make such 
 as Hysons, Oolongs, Bohea and Japan teas, generally the 
 leaves of the choicer grades are small to medium size, 
 artistically twisted, unbroken and stemless — Hysons and 
 Japans being natural in color, Boheas and Oolongs 
 crapy or silky in appearance. 
 
 It is a general rule that all teas are fine in proportion 
 to their tenderness and immaturity, the leaves containing 
 the most sap will roll or curl the tightest and retain 
 their form longest, consequently the younger and fresher a 
 tea is the more succulent and juicy it will be. Old and 
 inferior teas devoid of this quality will be found to 
 be loosely rolled or curled according to their make, dry, 
 chippy or chaffy, coarse and ragged in appearance, and 
 stem my. 
 
 Feeling. 
 
 Testing or judging teas by feeling is more applicable to 
 black varieties and teas of the twisted or folded sorts. 
 If a tea so tried be choice, it will be found to be crisp 
 and smooth in the hand and capable of resisting a 
 gentle pressure, yielding, but never snapping. 
 
 If old and sapless, it will feel rough, chafly and 
 very brittle, cracking or breaking upon the slightest 
 pressure. 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing. 141 
 
 Smelling. 
 
 By blowing or breathing hard upon a tea and putting 
 , it rapidly to the nose, a fair estimate of its kind and 
 quality may be formed ; every character and quality 
 of tea possessing a flavor peculiar to itself. It will be 
 necessary first to acquaint one's self with the flavor and 
 strength of the tea they desire to match. This may be 
 quickly acquired by making a "standard" of the 
 sample to be equalled, and, by repeated breathings and 
 smellings catch its flavor and strength ; then selecting 
 the tea resembling or approaching nearest to it. For 
 instance, secure a sample of " true Moyune ;" breathe 
 on and smell it a few times : its flavor will be quickly 
 caught. Then make this flavor a standard when 
 purchasing green teas. The same rule will apply to 
 choice Foo-chows, Formosas, Japans and other varie- 
 ties. 
 
 This method is not given however as a reliable or 
 conclusive test at all times for two reasons. If suffer- 
 ing from a cold in the head, the full flavor or strength 
 cannot be accurately estimated. Secondly, many teas 
 possess an evanescent or " flashy " flavor in the hand, 
 which rapidly passes off when the sample is infused in 
 boiling water. 
 
 In the absence of drawing facilities, a fair opinion 
 of its character and value may be formed by 
 
 Chewing. 
 
 By chewing the leaves a fine tea may be recognized 
 in three ways. If the tea be choice, the leaves will 
 dissolve rapidly by slight mastication. If young, 
 tender and succulent, they become quickly reduced to a 
 
142 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 fine pulp, the juice extracted being abundant, pungent 
 and palatable. On removing the masticated leaves 
 from the mouth, if the tea be fine, they will be ftjund of 
 a pasty consistency, and of a rich, natural green color. 
 If the leaves of inferior or spurious tea be submitted to 
 the same test, they will be instantly recognized by their 
 being dry, tough and hard to masticate, the sap, if any, 
 being bitterly astringent and weedy, or herby to the taste. 
 
 The leaves, on being removed from the mouth, are 
 granulated in appearance, and brown, red or dark in 
 color. 
 
 This test should be only occasionally resorted to, as 
 the too frequent chewing of tea has a severe efiect upon 
 the nervous system. 
 
 Drawing. 
 
 Of the many methods of testing or judging teas, the 
 infusing or drawing test will be found to be the most 
 reliable, satisfactory and conclusive. 
 
 This is the method in use by brokers, merchants and 
 dealers generally. Every dealer, no matter how limited 
 his trade may be, should have some means of testing his 
 teas by drawing them before purchasing. For this pur- 
 pose, a number of small china cups made for the pur- 
 pose, a small scale to weigh the leaves, and a silver half- 
 dime is requisite. The kettle used to boil the water in 
 should be perfectly clean, the water soft, fresh and 
 filtered, and thoroughly boiled before being poured on the 
 leaves. Water not boiling poured on the leaves will 
 cause them to fioat. 
 
 "When a dealer intends to purchase a tea of a certain 
 kind or quality, he should get samples from three or 
 four houses, or more if necessary. Take the weight of the 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing. 143 
 
 half dime of leaves, this quantity is for cups of the size 
 before described, mark his cups-to correspond with each 
 sample, then have the position of the cups changed so that 
 he may not know them, and pour on the boiling water. 
 It is customary with some experts to cover the cups with 
 small saucers or lids and allow them to draw from 
 three to five minutes. The leaves of a fine tea will sink 
 immediately to the bottom. 
 
 The cups should be dry and clean before being used. 
 Care should be particularly taken that no other teas 
 have been tried in them without being washed in hot 
 water and dried. If larger vessels are used the weight 
 should be increased, say to a ten-cent piece. 
 
 In testing teas by drawing them four points should be ' 
 observed and noted — the aroma, the color of the liquor, 
 its body and flavor. The one combining these four — 
 fragrant aroma, golden yellow liquor, heavy or full body 
 and pungent flavor — will prove to be the finest tea. 
 
 On removing the lids smell the vapor arising from 
 the cups and note the result. Stir the leaves with a 
 spoon, smelling them occasionally. After this process 
 has been tried and notes taken, the liquor will be cool 
 enough to taste. Then note the color of the liquor in 
 each cup. A rich golden liquor generally indicates a 
 good body, but does not always determine its strength. 
 Many teas that draw light still possess a strong flavor. 
 This does not apply to teas of the Indian or Congou 
 variety, though the same general rules will answer, their 
 liquors varying from a light to a dark wine color. 
 
 After an opinion has been formed or a decision made 
 regarding the strength and flavor of the teas, then ana- 
 lyse the leaves. The leaves of a choice, pure tea will be 
 
144 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 found after infusion to be of a medium and uniform size, 
 perfectly formed and unbroken. If broken, dark-reddish 
 or brown leaves, not corresponding in shape, form and 
 color with the tea leaf, the tea has evidently been adul- 
 terated with foreign leaves. Oolongs are particularly 
 liable to this species of adulteration, Ankoi leaves being 
 blended. These are recognized by their dark red color 
 and uncouth appearance. 
 
 The same rules that govern one in judging green teas 
 will also apply to Japans. 
 
 The selection of Indian teas and Chinese teas of the 
 English Breakfast variety is also governed by similar 
 rules in testing. 
 
 All teas of the Oolong variety are subject to the same 
 rules in judging of them. 
 
 In England tea testers use a silver six-pence (about 
 equal to our dime), as weight to a gill of water, when 
 testing teas. 
 
 It is also customary to employ youths specially 
 trained and educated for the purpose of testing teas. 
 They are not allowed to drink, smoke or otherwise use 
 any diet that may interfere with or impair their senses 
 of smell and taste. 
 
 Miscellaneous. 
 
 The tastes of communities differ, and a dealer must 
 study and learn the particular kind and flavor of the 
 tea best adapted to the locality or town he is doing busi- 
 ness in. This can be accomplished by a series of experi- 
 ments with various kinds of tea, and noting the charac- 
 ter and quality that gives the most general satisfaction. 
 A tea that may suit one community will not sell at all 
 in another. The dealer must learn himself what tea 
 
Th£ Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing. 145 
 
 best suits his trade. It is much easier to describe what 
 flavors to avoid than to maiie known what will be 
 best adapted to a particular locality. 
 
 Generally in a manufacturing district, or among 
 working classes in this country, dark-leaved, heavy- 
 bodied Foo-chows and Amoy Oolongs will prove the 
 most popular teas. 
 
 In a community where a great many Irish or English 
 people reside, Formosas, Congous, Souchongs and the bet- 
 ter grades of India teas will give the best satisfaction. 
 
 Oolongs, of an herby, weedy or smoky flavor, are to 
 be avoided. These are principally mixed with An- 
 kois. Japans of a fishy, metallic or musty flavor 
 should also be shunned. 
 
 Pingsueys, Cantons and artificially-colored green teas 
 should be tabooed altogether by the dealer. If cheap 
 green teas must be had, procure a true Moyune Hyson, 
 of low grade, or a Twankay. These will give better 
 satisfaction than the best grades of the above-named. 
 
 Old teas, in particular, of all kinds should not be 
 handled. There is no profit in them for the dealer, 
 and no satisfaction to the consumer. In brief, keep good 
 goods and get your price. It will pay best in the end. 
 
 Teas should be kept as much as possible from the 
 light and air, and also far apart from any high or foul- 
 smelling article in stock, such as fish, coal-oil, spices, 
 etc., as they very quickly absorb any pungent flavors 
 that may be in their immediate vicinity. They should 
 never be sold out of freshly-painted bins or caddies. It 
 is, in fact, much better at all times to deal them out 
 from the original packages, replacing the lead and lid 
 when through. The most successful tea dealers we 
 
i4<^ A Cup of I^ea. 
 
 have met sold their teas in that manner. Do not keep 
 your teas too close to a fire or stove. A dry, cool 
 atmosphere will be found the best. 
 
 It is essential for retail dealers to pay particular atten- 
 tion to the kind and quality of the tea they serve their 
 customers. There is no commodity they handle that 
 will draw trade as rapidly and retain it like a good tea. 
 
 If the customers once lose confidence in either your 
 ability or honesty, or they should be driven off by sell- 
 ing them poor teas, it will be next to impossible to 
 get them back again. 
 
 A fine tea will create more favorable comment in a 
 neighborhood than any other article used at the table. 
 
 It does not pay a dealer to make a mistake in the se- 
 lection of his teas; it proves fatal to attracting or 
 holding his trade. Poor teas will drive more customers 
 away in a week than can be made in a year. It is 
 much better and more profitable in the long run to sell 
 a good tea at a smaller profit than it would be to sell 
 poor teas at a larger. 
 
 Some dealers make use. of the argument : " I bought 
 so much cheaper and my customers do not appear to 
 notice the difference ; they do not complain." This may 
 all be true. People seldom return to complain ; they 
 try elsewhere and get better value. 
 
 Every community becomes accustomed to drinking a 
 particular description of tea, and is quick to discover 
 any change in the character and flavor of the tea that 
 may be substituted, and become dissatisfied, notwith- 
 standing that a higher priced or more valuable tea may be 
 given them. For this reason the dealer will do well to 
 keep his teas as nearly uniform as possible. It remains 
 
The Art of Testing, ^lending and Preparing.' t-i? 
 
 for him to learn as near as he can what kind and flavor 
 of tea his trade prefers. This is best done by first trying 
 them Avith various kinds until he has found the flavor 
 best suited to the majority of his customers. Having 
 succeeded in this, let him stick to that particular flavor 
 ever after. As any one tea will not suit all tastes, 
 he can find the flavor adapted to the minority by the 
 same method, and keep these two or three kinds, as the 
 case may be. A dealer can, howevei", educate his trade 
 'to a particular flavored tea, as the taste for teas of a 
 certain flavor is after all only an acquired one. A dealer 
 may for instance, be selling, say Foo-chow tea, and should 
 he suddenly change to Formosa, his trade would be 
 very apt to find fault at first, notwithstanding that the 
 latter might be choicer and better than the former, but 
 by ignoring the complaints and continuing to give it to 
 them they eventually acquire a taste for it, and will 
 not have Foo-cliows afterwards. So it is with other 
 teas. They may be educated to their use. 
 
 Green teas are sold chiefly in the South ; Japans in 
 the West ; Oolongs are most in demand in the Eastern 
 States, Formosa being preferred in the larger cities and 
 Amoys in the provinces and manufacturing districts. 
 Foochow Oolongs are the favorites in the Middle States 
 and cities, where every effort to supplant them fails. 
 
 What little English Breakfast and Indian teas that 
 are disposed of are principally consumed in the seaboard 
 cities of the East. 
 
 BLENDING. 
 
 Comparatively little is known of the principle of 
 mixing or blending teas in this country. American 
 dealers and the public generally being averse to the pro- 
 
148 A Cup Of TeA. 
 
 ceeding, regarding the practice as dishonorable and 
 about on a par with other methods of adulteration. 
 
 ■This is entirely erroneous, as it will be found an ac- 
 knowledged principle that blends of a variety of wheats 
 make better flour ; and so with coffees and many other 
 articles. 
 
 Blended or skilfully mixed teas are the rule in Eng- 
 land, where it has become an art, very little, if any, 
 teas being sold to the consumer that are not mixed or 
 blended in some manner, and every dealer becomes 
 identified with or noted for some particular flavored 
 tea. 
 
 The practice of blending tea, if properly understood, 
 or intelligently undertaken, would prove a satisfactory 
 and profitable proceeding for both consumer and dealer. 
 The difficulty exists in first finding a combination that 
 will suit a majority. This can only be obtained by ex- 
 periment and observation. 
 
 The idea of blending tea originally arose from the 
 experience that a more pleasing and less costly beverage, 
 could be produced from a variety of teas scientifically 
 mixed than could otherwise be obtained from any single 
 kind when used by itself, or when but two kinds were 
 used. The object, then, is not, as many persons may 
 imagine, to reduce the quality, or to get rid of inferior 
 teas, but to obtain a flavor better and more desirable 
 than that yielded by any single variety, giving better 
 satisfaction to the consumer at a more moderate price, 
 and at the same time allowing a larger margin to the 
 dealer. 
 
 The knowledge and skill displayed by English dealers 
 in this particular branch uf their business is only at- 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing. 149 
 
 tained by numerous tests and experiments; they gen- 
 erally mix together four or five samples differing in 
 character and quality, alternately changing and substitu- 
 ting until they succeed in producing a tea, the flavor of 
 which will prove pleasing to a majority of their patron?, 
 at a moderate cost, identified with themseh'es, and differ- 
 ing in every respect from the flavor of any tea offered 
 by their competitors. 
 
 After the English dealer has once succeeded in ob- 
 taining a popular flavor, he is very careful to keep the 
 blend as uniform as possible, and never allow even his 
 employees to know of what teas his combination has 
 been formed; he thus becomes noted for keeping a tea 
 that cannot be secured elsewhere, and when the custo- 
 mer becomes educated to that especial flavor will not be 
 satisfied with any other. 
 
 It follows, then, that by the judicious blending or mix- 
 ing of three, four or five teas, differing in variety and 
 character, that a more uniform and pleasing flavor, richer 
 liquor and fuller bodied tea can be obtained, and at a 
 more moderate cost to the dealer. 
 
 It is a rule of all successful dealers in tea, to sell a 
 tea of uniform flavor and character. It being regarded 
 as utterly impossible to conduct a successful or lasting 
 tea trade by frequent changes in the quality and charac- 
 ter of tea. 
 
 As an illustration, the dealer may be selling a tea 
 possessing an unsuitable flavor, having no body or light 
 in liquor. By adding another tea of a high flavor the 
 former is rectified, then introducing a full heavy 
 bodied tea the two latter are improved. 
 
ISO A Cup of Tea. 
 
 The proper blending of tea is an art that cannot be 
 correctly taught or easily learned; it must be acquired 
 by experiment alone. 
 
 The dealer must endeavor to learn himself to under- 
 stand the flavors and characters, both of the teas that 
 will be improved and those of teas that may be injured 
 by combination, as no absolute rule can be substi- 
 tuted for the knowledge acquired by experience. 
 
 Most tea drinkers, having a preference for some favo- 
 rite flavor, it becomes necessary for the dealer to consider 
 what character of tea, or what particular flavor his cus- 
 tomer has been accustomed to, and cater to it accordingly. 
 
 Not only is there in the various sections of the coun- 
 try a complete difference in taste, and even in the large 
 cities, the kinds and flavors in demand are so numerous 
 and various, that dealers must mark out a distinct line 
 for themselves. This will be found the surest and most 
 desirable course to pursue, care being taken that the 
 uniformity of the blend adopted is kept regular, as it 
 secures the return of customers, and serves to keep the 
 business steady and progressive. 
 
 In the smaller towns it is well to bear the advantage 
 of this course in mind, and while at the beginning it 
 may be found to be advisable to keep close to the es- 
 tablished taste of the vicinity, a gradual change, intro- 
 ducing some special flavor may be found politic. 
 
 In the blending of teas, it is essential that all combi- 
 nations should bo thoroughly and judiciously mixed 
 together. The leaves being broken as little as possible, 
 so as not to spoil the general appearance. 
 
 Judicious tea blending will be found to amply the 
 study and labor bestowed on it. But is a great mistake 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing. 151 
 
 to imagine that tea blending consists of an injudicious 
 and indiscriminate mixing together of two or more kinds 
 of tea in an indifferent manner, without regard to the 
 affinity or affiliation of liquor or flavor. 
 
 The fundamental principle should be to obtain 
 strength, pungency and quality, so as to produce a par- 
 ticular and popular flavor, and at the same time effect 
 this result with the smallest possible outlay. 
 
 To accomplish this result three points must be studied : 
 first the taste of your customers; second to ascertain by 
 experiment what teas will combine to suit this taste; and 
 thirdly to find out to what extent the component parts 
 of the blend may bo varied in case of difficulty to obtain 
 the same kind of teas at a future time. 
 
 The appended formulas are given not as laying down 
 any fixed rules, but as suggesting, if carefully followed 
 they will prevent any serious errors, and may serve to 
 insure a fair measure of success, — the combinations as a 
 rule must depend upon the character and grade of tea most 
 in demand in the immediate vicinity of the dealer. That 
 particular tea must form the base of all blends made, as 
 for instance, if Foo-chow Oolong tea be th at preferred 
 then one-half the combination must consist of Foo-chow, 
 if Formosas, the same, and so with Greens, Japans and 
 Congous. 
 
 Oolongs as a general rule should form the base of 
 nearly all blends in this country. Oolongs being to the 
 American consumer what Congous are to the English. 
 
 In experimenting to obtain a desired blend, mix the 
 different proportions of the various teas together, first 
 weighing, then draw a sample of the compound for your 
 own satisfaction, then give a few samples to your most 
 
152 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 particular customers and get their opinions. If not sat- 
 isfactory, change the proportions, reducing or increasing, 
 the quantities, and if necessary the kinds, substituting 
 others until the desired flavor is obtained. 
 
 A blend like the following will be found to give 
 very general satisfaction ; being rich and full, strong, yet 
 smooth and pleasing, it is entirely foreign to any tea in 
 common use. 
 
 8 lbs. Formosa Oolong, about 40 cts. - - - $3.20 
 1- " Basket-fired Japan, " 40 cts. - 40 
 
 1 " Moning Congou " 30 cts. - - 30 
 
 Average cost 39 cts. 
 
 A fair Nankin Moyune may be substituted for the 
 Japan, or better still added to the mixture for those who 
 may wish green. 
 
 A blend that will yield a strong rich fragrant cup of 
 tea is 
 
 3 lbs. Formosa, @ 40 cts. - - $1.20 
 
 3 lbs. Choice Assam @ 40 cts. - - 1.20 
 
 Average cost 40 cts, 
 
 A medium grade Japan and Foo-chow Oolong mixed in 
 
 equal quantities, forms an excellent blend at a moderate 
 
 cost. A fair Young Hyson, and Choice Japan, yields 
 
 an excellent blend for those desiring an all green tea. 
 
 The annexed blend has been proved to be a very popu- 
 lar tea in some sections of Philadelphia and vicinity. 
 6 lbs. Foochow Oolong costing about 25 cts, - $1.50 
 1 lb- Fine Assam costing about 40 cts. - - 40 
 
 1 lb. Moyune Imperial costing about 40 cts. - - 40 
 1 lb. Uncolored Japan costing about 40 cts. - - 40 
 
 Average cost of blend, 30 cts 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Prepabing. 153 
 
 This tea cannot be matched in strength and flavor by 
 any 50 cent tea of either kind singly. 
 
 The following blend makes an elegant cup of tea for 
 those desiring all black. 
 
 10 lbs. Foochow Oolong, @ 25 - - ' $2.50 
 
 5 lbs. Choice Formosa, @ 50 - 2.50 
 
 3 lbs. Basket-Fired Japan, @ 40 - - 1.20 
 
 Average cost, about 35 cts. 
 
 The Oolong used in these combinations lacks pungency 
 and flavor, which the addition of the Japan imparts. 
 The Assam in the first and the Formosa in the second, 
 gives fragrance and strength. The former gives better 
 satisfaction to tea drinkers generally and costs much less. 
 
 For a cheap tea suitable for a restaurant trade, a 
 low priced Oolong land low grade Assam both costing 
 say 25 cents, and blended in equal proportions, cannot be 
 excelled by any tea of either kind costing 40 cents when 
 sold alone. 
 
 The following blend has been found to give almost 
 universal satisfaction in a neighborhood composed of a 
 working class. 
 
 5 lbs. Assam, 5 lbs. Japan, 5 lbs. Oolong. 
 
 If your trade be a mercantile or professional one, the 
 following will be found to suit the most fastidious taste. 
 
 3 lbs. Choicest Formosa, to 1 lb. Choict-t Foochow 
 Oolong. 
 
 If a rich, heavy-bodied, full, aromatic flavored tea is 
 required to please a taste difficult to suit, the appended 
 formula is recommended. 
 
 5 lbs. Choicest Formosa Oolong. 
 
 3 " " Assam Souchong. 
 
 2 " " Foochow Oolong. 
 
154 A Cup of 'Tea. 
 
 To obtain a grippy tea, one that will stand a 
 second drawing, and still possess body and flavor, the 
 following blend is suggested for mining and furnace 
 districts. 
 
 5 lbs. Kaisow Congou. 
 
 3 lbs. Amoy Oolong. 
 
 2 lbs. Formosa Oolong. 
 
 Another blend as follows, is unique. 
 10 lbs. Foochow Oolong, @ 25 cts. - - $2.50 
 
 10 lbs. Young Hyson, @ 30 cts. - - - 3.00 
 6 lbs. Basket-fired Japan, @ 40 cts. - - 2.00 
 
 Average cost, 30 cts. 
 
 If not of sufficient strength add 1 lb. Congou or Sou- 
 chong. The flavor of this coiupound is unlikethat of 
 any single tea grown, and much desired. 
 
 In the blending of Indian teas the best results are ob- 
 tained from a combination of Cachar and Darjeeling 
 sorts. 
 
 The Indian growths being too strong to drink, alone, 
 a good plan would be to mix three or four different 
 sorts of these teas together. One (Assam,) heavy, 
 strong and thick, another (Cachar,) brisk and pungent, 
 a third (Dehrah Doon,) of a juicy, full and soft character, 
 and a fourth, a fine flavored Darjeeling or Kangra Valley, 
 to impart a distinctive tone to the blend. 
 
 In the blending of teas in England, good Congou as 
 a general rule are taken for a base, this variety being the 
 popular tea there ; it is held in the same estimation by 
 English tea consumers, that Oolongs are in this country. 
 
 The following combination is a very popular English 
 one and will be found to suit among Euglisk residents. 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing. 155 
 
 6 lbs. Moiling Congou. 
 4 lbs. Kaisow Congou. 
 2 lbs. Souchong. 
 2 lbs. Assam. 
 1 lb. Pekoe. 
 
 1 lb. Oolong. 
 
 The foundation of this blend it will be noticed is 
 Cougou. The Souchong enriches it, the Kaisow gives 
 it flavor, the Pekoe imparts an aroma, the Oolong adds 
 sharpness and pungency, while the Assam adds body 
 and fulness to the entire. 
 
 Another English blend, cheaper but not quite as sat- 
 isfactory, is as follows : 
 
 6 lbs. Common Moning Congou. 
 
 6 lbs. Fair Kaisow " 
 
 2 lbs. Choice Assam. 
 1 lb. Caper. 
 
 1 lb. Pekoe. 
 
 1 lb. Oolong. 
 
 The Moning Congou forming the base, this combina- 
 tion not possessing the strength and flavor of that used 
 in the first, an extra quantity of Assam is required to 
 bring it up. The equal proportion of the Kaisow Con_ 
 gou imparts a rich flavor, as well as toning the high 
 toast of the extra proportion of Assam used ; the Pe- 
 koe giving an aroma or bouquet to the whole. 
 
 The importance of retaining the uniformity of the 
 blend, when once a satisfactory combination has been 
 found cannot be over-estimated. 
 
 Other blends may be good, their component parts 
 properly mixed, but except one particular blend is de- 
 cided on and then maintained, fault will be found, and 
 
156 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 the trade will leave you. To keep your favorite blend 
 uniform will not be difficult, if proper attention is paid 
 to the selection of your teas, by having each sample 
 matched before purchasing, and by not changing more 
 than one tea at a time, when it is the intention to alter 
 the chnracter of the blend. If changes are made let it 
 be done gradually, and few if any of your customers will 
 notice the alteration. 
 
 Teas should never be mixed in rainy or damp weather ; 
 after blending they should be allowed to stand at 
 least ten days, tightly covered and in a moderate tem- 
 perature. 
 
 As before stated tastes diflFer in the diiFerent sections 
 of the country.. In the Eastern States, including New 
 York City, Formosas are the favorite teas, in the Middle, 
 Foochow and Amoy Oolongs ; in the West, Japan teas 
 are the most popular; while in the South, Green teas 
 are most in demand. Again, in the different sections of 
 a city the tastes vary — manufacturing localities demand- 
 ing heavy strong full teas, while the sections, occupied by 
 those engaged in business and the professions prefer light 
 drawing high flavored teas. 
 
 The occupations of the sections in which the dealer is 
 doing business will be found one of the best guides. 
 
 It remains then for the dealer to study the tastes of 
 the locality in which he is doing business, and having 
 once learned it to cater to it accordingly. 
 
 " First crop " teas make the best base for all combi- 
 nations. 
 
 Musty, herby or otherwise tainted teas should never 
 be introduced into a blend, as such teas invariably nota^ 
 bly affect the entire mixture. 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing, i 5 7 
 
 When low-priced teas are used for blending purposes, 
 i.e. reducing its cost, see that they are perfectly clean 
 sweet and smooth. 
 
 Especial care should be taken that no tea be added 
 that may in any way act detrimentally upon any other 
 forming the combination. 
 
 For the purpose of imparting a rich, aromatic flavor 
 to any combination of teas, a choice Formosa will be 
 found the most desirable for this purpose, its flavor and 
 pungency being possessed by no other tea. A small 
 quantity of fine or tolerably good Formosa tea will 
 permeate and taste through any mixture. 
 
 A fine Orange Pekoe will make an excellent blending 
 tea, when used in small quantities, say one pound in ten. 
 
 PREPARING FOR USE. 
 
 In the preparation of tea for use, the quality of the 
 infusion is much affected by the character of the water 
 and also by the manner of "making" or "drawing." 
 
 Many who imagine that a high dark-colored liquor 
 indicates strength, boil the leaves; this is entirely wrong. 
 Others, again, spoil the infusion by putting the leaves 
 into the boiling water. Some persons put the leaves in 
 cold water, then place the vessel on the fire to boil. 
 Prolonged infusion is another serious mistake. All of 
 these methods produce the same results, that of extract- 
 ing an increased amount of the tannic acid, thereby 
 destroying the flavor of the tea by giving to it an as- 
 tringent taste, and imparting to the liquor a black color. 
 In the proper preparation of tea for the table, the object 
 should be to extract as little of the tannin as possible, 
 and as much of the theine and volatile oil as can be 
 
I 58 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 extracted without permitting the infusion to boil. When 
 tea has been boiled or overdrawn, the increased quantity 
 of the tannin can be readily perceived by the dark color 
 of the liquor, and by the astringency of its flavor. 
 
 The following method is recommended for obtaining 
 the most desirable results: 
 
 Put the requisite quantity of leaves in a covered china 
 or earthenware vessel, (avoid tin or metal,) pour on 
 fresh boiling water that has been boiling for at least five 
 minutes, then stand the vessel where it will keep hot, 
 without boiling, for at least ten minutes. 
 
 In the ten minutes, while the tea is " drawing," only 
 the refreshing principles (theine and volatile oil) are 
 drawn out of the leaves ; a longer infusion dissolves and 
 extracts the astringent principle (tannic acid) which is 
 said to impair digestion, and for which reason, boiled or 
 overdrawn tea is not good. The perfect cup of tea is 
 made in the time stated. 
 
 Another reprehensible practice is that of adding fresh 
 leaves to those that have been already drawn once. You 
 cannot add to the strength or flavor of the tea by put- 
 ting more leaves in the pot after the first drawing, for 
 the reason that the tea water will not extract the theine 
 from the dry leaves of the fresh tea. Only pure boiling 
 water will do this. It will simply increase the tannin, 
 destroy the flavor, darken the color, and only add to the 
 quantity of leaves already in the pot without afiecting 
 the active principle. 
 
 If it be required to increase the strength of the tea,' 
 draw some fresh leaves in a separate vessel, and add the 
 liquor to that already made. 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing. 159 
 
 For a really good " cup of tea," the kettle must be 
 filled with fresh water, and boiled quickly for about five 
 minutes. There will be a sparkle about tea made from 
 fresh boiled water that it will not receive from the flat, 
 hot water that has been boiled long or repeatedly. 
 
 For moderate strength it requires one teaspoonful of 
 good tea to a half-pint of boiling water. An ordinary 
 tea-cup half full to a quart of water, will make a strong 
 infusion for five persons. 
 
 An earthen pot of Minton, Doulton or Satsuma ware, 
 is the best vessel for drawing ' tea. It must be first 
 "scalded" out and set on the range to dry, and kept hot. 
 Then put the tea in, allowing to heat for a few minutes, 
 adding the boiling water just ten minutes before it is 
 wanted to be poured out. 
 
 The character of the water greatly influences the 
 tea — it being next to impossible to make good tea with 
 hard water. Soft water should always be used when 
 available. Excess of lime in water also deteriorates the 
 infusion. This last dililculty may be remedied by the 
 judicious use of carbonate of soda. As much as would 
 cover the face of a dime being sufiicient for an ordinary 
 drawing of tea. 
 
 India teas and teas of the Congou order generally 
 should not be allowed to "draw" more than seven minutes 
 after tlui boiling water has been poured on, as prolonged 
 infusion makes the flavor of these particularly mawkish 
 and bitter. The addition of an extra quantity of milk 
 and sugar, greatly improves the flavor of these varieties. 
 
 Oolongs and Green teas do not require much milk or 
 sugar, while Japan teas are more palatable without the 
 addition of either. 
 
i6o A Cup of Tea. 
 
 In hot weather, an infusion of the leaves in cold water 
 is preferable to the use of hot or boiling water, for the 
 reason that the aroma is not dissipatscl. The "extract" 
 made in this manner may be bottled, and if put in a 
 cool place, will keep from a week to ten days. When 
 required for use fill the goblet with cracked ice, then put 
 the sugar on top, with a small slice oc two of lemon. 
 Pour on this "extract of tea," and the result will be a 
 drink fit for the gods. 
 
 la QMma 
 
 Tea is the regular beverage of all classes in the empire, 
 while at the same time it administers to the luxury of 
 the epicure. It takes the place of beer and wine, and 
 may be said to be to the Chinese what ale is to the English, 
 beer to the Germans, wine to the French and Spani.sh, in 
 short the national drink of the country. 
 
 'The wealthier Chinese and mandarins prepare their 
 tea for use in the cup. Tlie requisite quantity of leaves 
 are first put in, a perforated silver lid, circular in form 
 is then placed over them to keep them down ; boiling 
 water is then poured on, the cup is then covered with a 
 saucer or lid to prevent the aroma from escaping, and 
 then left to draw from eight to ten minutes. The 
 infusion is then drank by them without the addition of 
 either sugar or milk. 
 
 The poorer classes of Chinese prepare their tea in a 
 vessel similar to that in use here, but do not allow it to 
 draw or stand as long before using as in England and this 
 country. They instantly pour it oif, by which process 
 
The Art of Testing, Blending and Preparing. i6i 
 
 they extract only the more volatile and stimulating 
 properties of the leaves. 
 
 The extremely poor Chinese, however, boil the old 
 and very inferior leaves of what is known as "refuse 
 tea," which alone are within their reach, and drink the 
 infusion frequently during the day. This is . done 
 not alone for the purpose of extracting such virtues as 
 the leaves may possess, but also to qualify the water, as 
 very little good drinking water is to be met with in 
 China. In 
 
 Tea is prepared in the customary manner as with us in 
 an earthen vessel, the leaves and liquor being swallowed 
 at all times however. The 
 
 Reduce the leaves to a fine powder and then infuse it in 
 a porcelain vessel made for the especial purpose; they 
 then strain the liquor, but oftentimes the liquor and pul- 
 verized leaves are drank together. The 
 
 Boil the leaves until the liquor acquires a black color and 
 bitterish taste, then they add fennel and anise seed, 
 cloves and sugar, to the decoction before using it. The 
 
 Simply put the leaves in seething water and use the 
 liquor immediately without the addition of any other 
 materials. The 
 
 According to the Abbe Huck, prepare tea in the custom- 
 ary manner and di'ink it with the addition of milk only. 
 In 
 
:62 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Jt is the custom to prepare tea for use by grinding the 
 leaves to dust, mixing it "with bullock's blood, pressing it 
 into the form of a brick, and drying it by a fire heat : 
 it is then wrapped in sheepskin wrappers to preserve 
 them until required, when they are boiled and used; 
 this is known as " brick tea." 
 
 In Central Asia generally a kind of bullion or soup 
 is made from this brick tea, being mixed in boiling water 
 with salt, camel's milk, and often with flour fried in oil. 
 Pumpelly states that in his overland journey from China 
 to Russia, he partook of a compound of tea, tallow, salt, 
 and cheese. The 
 
 Prepare tea for use in the customary manner here and 
 in England, but invariably add sliced lemon to theinfu- 
 siori before drinking. This is said to improve the flavor 
 of the tea wonderfully, and make a delicious beverage. 
 The Russians have Tea houses, which in many re- 
 spects resemble the Turkish Cafe. They go to these 
 houses to drink tea only, with a flavor of vodki (spirits) 
 in it. In summer they drink cold tea instead of hot, 
 using lemon instead of vodki. They seldom use sugar, 
 and never milk, cigarettes being furnished with it. The 
 tea sold in these tea- houses is very good, and Russians 
 swallow surprising quantities of it, three to four pints 
 at a time, with a proportionate quantity of liquor, a 
 quantity not however considered excessive for a sober 
 man. It makes a potent beverage sending a glow all 
 over the body. In 
 
The Art of Testing, Bletstoing and Preparing. 163 
 
 It is the custom to mix cinnamon with the leaves before 
 infusing, and then prepare both in the usual manner 
 here, sugar and milk being added to suit the taste. In 
 
 FrSaQQ aad' Spain 
 
 Brandy and wine are usually added to the infusion, and 
 in 
 
 Baglmad 
 
 Gin is frequently added but otherwise prepared and 
 used as in this country. 
 
Chapter IX. 
 STATISTICS, 
 
 The period when tea was first introduced has already 
 been noticed. How little it was possible to have fore- 
 seen that it would one day become one of the most im- 
 portant articles of foreign production consumed. 
 
 For above a century and a half the sole object of the 
 English East India Company's trade, with China, was to 
 furnish tea for consumption in England, the Company, 
 during that period, enjoying a monopoly of the entire 
 tea trade, to the exclusion of all other parties. They 
 were bound from time to time to send orders for tea, pro- 
 vide ships for its transportation, and "Always to keep 
 at least one year's supply in their warehouses." 
 
 They were also compelled to bring all teas to London 
 only, and there to offer them at public sale quarterly, and 
 to dispose of them at one penny per pound advance on 
 the gross cost of importation. The price being deter- 
 mined by adding their prime cost in China, to the ex- 
 penses of freight, insurance, interest on capital invested, 
 and other charges. But by the methods of calculation 
 pursued by the Company, and the heavier expenses 
 which' always attend every department of a trade mon- 
 opoly, the prices were greatly enhanced. 
 
STAtlSTtdS. 
 
 1^5 
 
 In 1834 the Company was deprived of the exclusive 
 rivileges, and the trade thrown open to all parties. 
 
 The first importation by the English East India 
 Company took place in 1669, from the Company's man- 
 factory in Bantam! The directors ordering their ser- 
 ants "to send 100 pounds of the best Tey they could 
 rocure." In 1678, as before noticed, 4713 pounds were 
 nported, but for the six following years the entire im- 
 ortation only amounted to 410 pounds. 
 
 The Company's official account of the trade did not 
 ommence before 1725, but according to Milburn [Ori- 
 ntal Commerce) the consumption in the year 1711 was 
 41,995 pounds, in 1715, 120,695 pounds and in 1720, 
 137,904 pounds. 
 
 The appended table will show the rapid increase in 
 he importation and consumption of tea in England, up 
 and including the year 1840. 
 Table I. 
 
 Showing increase in the Consumption of Tea in the 
 Jnited Kingdom from 1725 to 1840, by Decades. 
 
 Year 
 
 Quantities 
 
 1725 
 
 1730 
 
 1740 
 
 1750 
 
 1760 
 
 1770 
 
 1780 
 
 1790 
 
 1800 
 
 1810 ■ . . 
 
 1820 
 
 1830 
 
 1840 
 
 370,323 fibs. 
 
 810,110 " 
 
 1,002,929 " 
 
 2,568,338 " 
 
 4,702,148 " 
 
 7,149,245 " 
 
 5,152,399 " 
 
 14,693,299 " 
 
 20,358,702 " 
 
 19,093,244 " 
 
 22,452,050 " 
 
 30,047,079 " 
 
 32,252,628 " 
 
I 66 
 
 A Ct 
 
 Lea. 
 
 In 1840-1, the stock of teas in England, stored in 
 London, Liverpool, Bristol, Leith and Glasgow, 
 amounted to 35,478,490 lbs. ; at the corresponding period 
 the following year, it had increased to 46,545,610 lbs., 
 comprising the following sorts or kinds. 
 Table II. 
 
 Showing the proportions of the different kinds used 
 and prices ruling in England in 1840-1. 
 
 Sorts 
 
 Quantities 
 
 Average price per lb. 
 
 BLACK TEAS. 
 
 
 
 
 Pekoes, 
 
 514,814 
 
 2s. 10rf.-68 cts. U. S. Cur. 
 
 Souchongs 
 
 354,515 
 
 2s. 9c/.-66 " 
 
 (( (( 
 
 Congous, 
 
 18,653,835 
 
 2s. 0d.-48 " 
 
 (( (( 
 
 CREEN TEAS. 
 
 
 
 
 Hyson, 
 
 Young Hysons, 
 Twankays, 
 
 141,160 
 
 987,052 
 
 4,339,672 
 
 2s. 0d.-48 " 
 3s. 6d.-84 " 
 Is. lOd.-U " 
 
 « « 
 
 The number of dealei s engaged in the tea trade at 
 that time was in England 82,794, Scotland, 13,611, 
 Ireland, 12,574. Total 109,179. 
 
 In England, at one period, the tea duty produced 
 about jJ^ of the total amount of revenue collected, only 
 three other articles, spirits, malt and sugar yielding a 
 larger sum. 
 
 Some idea of the enormous revenue derived from this 
 source may be formed from the amounts collected from 
 1800 to 1840. The average annual duties received 
 being upwards of £4,000,000 sterling ($20,000,000,) 
 the actual aggregate amount for that period was 
 £144,386,530 sterling, a sum equal to $721,933,650 of 
 our currency. 
 
§t. 
 
 AtlSTlCS. 
 
 16^ 
 
 Table III. 
 
 Comparative Statement, showing kinds and total im- 
 portation of Tea into England for first three years of 
 present decade. 
 
 Seasons 
 
 China & Japan Teas 
 
 India Teas 
 
 Total 
 
 1879-80, 
 1880-81, 
 1882-83, 
 
 125,409,187 
 114,763,334 
 141,363,789 
 
 35,243,000 
 43,807,000 
 49,397,000 
 
 160,652,187 
 158,570,334 
 190,760,900 
 
 The total receipts of tea in the United Kingdom for 
 the first eleven months of 1883 were 208,124,500 
 pounds, as against 190,760,000 pounds in 1882. The 
 consumption for the same period, amounted to 
 198,918,750, as against 192,126,000 pounds in 1882. 
 The stock on the 1st of January, 1884, amounted to 
 119,658,750 pounds, as against 109,607,000 for same 
 date in 1883. 
 
 The proportion of Black tea consumed in England is 
 about as 5 lbs. to 1 lb. of Green, while in this coun- 
 try the consumption of Green teas including Japans is 
 greatest. 
 
 It has been ascertained that the consumption of Coffee 
 has declined in England during the past four years, to 
 less than 1 lb. per capita of the population, while that of 
 tea has increased in the same period, from five to six lbs. 
 per capita per annum. 
 
STATISTICAL TABLES, 
 
 SHOWING 
 
 Imports, Exports, Constjmption and Prices of 
 Tea in the United States. 
 
 The first duty on tea was levied in 1789, as follows: 
 On Bohea, 15c. per Bb.; Souchong, Imperial and Gun- 
 powder, 22c. ; Young Hyson, 45c., and all other green 
 teas, 27e. Shortly after, in order to stimulate American 
 shipping, the duties were reduced when imported from 
 Europe in American vessels to 8c., 13c., 26c. and 16c. 
 on the above-specified teas, and when imported direct 
 from China in American vessels, the duty was still 
 further reduced to 6c., lOc, 20c. and 12c. respectively. 
 In 1794 these rates were increased 75 per cent, on direct 
 importations from China in American vessels, and 100 
 per cent, from Europe in foreign vessels. In 1796, the 
 duty on direct importations was made 12c. 18c., 32c. 
 and 20c., and from Europe in American vessels 6c. 
 additional, and in foreign vessels 10c. additional. In 
 1812, the duty was doubled. This remained in force 
 two years when it was reduced to 12c., 25c., 50c., 40c. 
 and 20c. in American vessels, and 14c., 34c., 68c., 56c. 
 and 38c. when imported from Europe or in foreign 
 vessels. During the twelve succeeding years there was 
 no change. In 1828, the duty was reduced ; in 1830, 
 .still further reduced, and in 1832, entirely removed, 
 except when imported in foreign vessels, when 10c. per 
 ib, duty was, collected. This tariff continued in force 
 29 years. In 1861, a uniform duty of 15c. was im- 
 posed, and soon increased to 20c. and then to 25c. On 
 January 1st, 1871, it was reduced to 15c., and on July 
 1st, 1872, entirely removed. 
 
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 Table IV. 
 
 Statement by Customs Districts, of the quantity of 
 tea imported into the United States each year, from 
 1870 to 1882, both inclusive. 
 
 YEAR 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
 HEW YOEK. 
 
 SAN FRANOISOO. 
 
 ALL OTHER 
 DISTEIOTS. 
 
 ENDED 
 
 Quantities. 
 
 Quantities. 
 
 Quantities. 
 
 Quantities. 
 
 June 30. 
 
 
 
 
 
 1870 
 
 3,227,516 
 
 41,697,021 
 
 2,413,452 
 
 70,492 
 
 1871 
 
 1,012,710 
 
 46,646,013 
 
 3,612,751 
 
 93,445 
 
 1872 
 
 1,039,173 
 
 46,146,822 
 
 15,643,993 
 
 981,015 
 
 1873 
 
 421,930 
 
 50,780,011 
 
 13,433,376 
 
 179,819 
 
 1874 
 
 772,508 
 
 39,931,658 
 
 14,467,365 
 
 640,074 
 
 1875 
 
 1,189,946 
 
 49,751,675 
 
 13,820,034 
 
 95,244 
 
 1876 
 
 1,130,352 
 
 40,506,613 
 
 21,226,132 
 
 24,056 
 
 1877 
 
 2,206,261 
 
 39,765,595 
 
 16,342,995 
 
 32,261 
 
 1878 
 
 1,256,409 
 
 45,242,543 
 
 18,831,685 
 
 36,067 
 
 1879 
 
 7,830 
 
 43,416,979 
 
 16,743,565 
 
 26,299 
 
 1880 
 
 47,025 
 
 51,941,410 
 
 20,159,422 
 
 15,079 
 
 1881 
 
 9,820 
 
 58,337,271 
 
 23,465,794 
 
 31,103 
 
 1882 
 
 3,338 
 
 61,281,341 
 
 17,399,473 
 
 84,908 
 
 These figures include 
 direct, and from Europe, 
 
 the receipts from China, Japan and India 
 for the United States and Canada. 
 
Statistics. 
 
 173 
 
 Table V. 
 
 Comparative statement showing total exports and 
 sorts of Tea from China, Japan and India to the 
 United States, by seasons, from 1880 to 1883, both in- 
 elusive, (Atlantic and Pacific ports.) 
 
 Geeen. 
 
 Sorts. 
 
 Seasons 
 
 Seasons 
 
 Seasons 
 
 1880-81. 
 
 1881-82. 
 
 1882-83. 
 
 Gunpowder, . . 
 
 8,023,750 
 
 8,923,745 
 
 7,745,100 
 
 Imperial, . . . 
 
 2,092,124 
 
 2,479,654 
 
 2,459,400 
 
 Young Hyson . . 
 
 7.993,672 
 
 7,961,156 
 
 6,825,200 
 
 Hyson, .... 
 
 1,033,142 
 
 1,242,924 
 
 1,007,700 
 
 Twankay, . . . 
 
 196,508 
 
 161,396 
 
 25,900 
 
 Total Green, . . 
 
 19,339,196 lbs. 
 
 20,768,875 lbs. 
 
 18,063,300 lbs. 
 
 Black. 
 
 Sorts. 
 
 Seasons 
 1880-81. 
 
 Seasons 
 1881-82. 
 
 Seasons 
 1882-83. 
 
 Formosa Oolong, 
 Amoy 
 
 Foochow " 
 Congou & Scuchong,* 
 Pouchong, 
 
 10,262,067 
 5,669,943 
 2,505,000 
 4,192,066 
 
 12,052,851 
 6,253,967 
 1,927,169 
 4,446,132 
 
 10,408,672 
 3,225,887 
 1,880,443 
 6,614,990 
 
 Total Black, . . 
 JAPAN . . . 
 
 22,629,076 lbs. 
 39,778,129 " 
 
 24,679,859 lbs. 
 34,534,785 " 
 
 22,129,992 lbs. 
 34,314,548 " 
 
 Total, . . . 
 
 81,746,301 lbs. 
 
 7,9983,719 lbs 
 
 74,507,840 lbs. 
 
 * Including India teas. 
 
174 
 
 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 The total shipments of tea from China, Japan and 
 India, direct to the United States for first half of this 
 season's (1883-4) crop, is as follows: 
 
 May 31st, to December 26th, 1884. 
 
 Greens, 6,323,892 
 
 Japans, 22,912,075 
 
 Oolongs, Formosa, 9,363,375 
 
 Foochow, 1,469,879 
 
 " Amoy, 1,303,095 
 
 Souchong and Congous (China growths,) . 3,322,043 
 " " " (India " ) . 95,346 
 
 Total direct to U. S. for first half of Sea- 
 son's 1883-84. . . . 44,789,705 lbs. 
 
 The total from these Countries and Europe combined, 
 up to date amounting to . . . 47,500,000 Bbs. 
 
 As against same period of 1882-83. 44,287,000 " 
 
 The total estimate of the shipments for the entire sea- 
 son are given at 65,450,000 pounds, but this cannot be re- 
 lied on, as it is practically impossible to say what the 
 shipments of tea will be until the season absolutely 
 closes. 
 
 The total stock of teas in first hands on January 1st, 
 1884, was as follows : 
 Greens, Blacks, Japans, Total, 
 
 16,257,673, 25,149,775, 16,370,368, 55,777,816 Bbs. 
 
 This shows an increase over the same date in 1882 of 
 1,222,298 ft)s. Greens, and 3,508,233 Bbs. Blacks, while 
 Japans show a decrease of 2,762,413 fibs., raising the 
 question as to whether this description retains its popu- 
 larity, it being suggested that the increased consumption of 
 Greens and Oolongs has been at the expense of this 
 
Statistics. 
 
 175 
 
 favorite description. The total importations are 
 1,968,118 fts. in excess of those of 1882. 
 
 The production of tea has very largely increased dur- 
 ing the last twenty years, probably in a greater ratio 
 than that of any other of the great staples of commerce. 
 It cannot be said that the consumption has increased in 
 anything like the same ratio, which will account for 
 the great decline in prices for the same period. The 
 total production of the world may be roundly estimated 
 at, for 
 
 China, 270,000,000- 
 
 Japau, 65,000,000 
 
 India, 50,000,000 
 
 Ceylon, 10,000,000 
 
 Java, 5,000 ,000 
 
 Total, .... 400,000,000 Bbs. 
 
 The production of China has increased fully 50 per 
 cent, in the foregoing period. To this increase must be 
 added the production of Japan and India from which 
 countries 20 years ago little or none was exported. 
 Adding their product to the China increase we find 
 that the available supply has increased nearly 100 per 
 cent, within the last quarter of a century. 
 
 The consumption of tea has largely increased all over 
 the world during the last twenty years, but not in pro- 
 portion to its production. The annual consumption in 
 the United Kingdom has reached, at present writing, 
 upwards of 190,000,000 H&s., exporting besides some 
 20,000,000 Sbs, The bulk of this enormous quantity 
 
176 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 consists chiefly of teas of the Congou variety, about 
 50,000,000 Bbs. of which is received from British Indiaand 
 other of her possessjons. The annual consumption in the 
 United States amounts to about 70,000,000 ibs., consisting 
 of about 35,000,000 fts. of Japans, 15,000,000 ibs. Oo- 
 longs, 14,000,000 Bbs. Greens, 5,500,000 Bbs. Congou de- 
 scriptions of China growth, and 500,000 Bbs. of ludias. 
 Russia ranks third with about 12,000,000 fibs, of 
 "Leaf" tea, (consisting almost entirely of Congous,) 
 and 17,000,000 Bbs. of "Brick" tea. The consumption 
 in the latter country is mereconjecture, however, no statis- 
 tics being available, Siberia and Mongolia being included 
 in the estimate of Brick tea. Holland is the next 
 largest consumer, the consumption being estimated at 
 5,000,000 Bbs. chiefly Java teas. France, Germany, Austria 
 and Italy are small consumers: excepting Russia and Hol- 
 land, the entire continent of Europe does not consume 
 5,000,000 Bbs. per annum, these markets being chiefly 
 supplied by England and Russia. The British, colonies 
 of Australia and New Zealand consume about 15,000,- 
 000 Bbs. per annum, mostly Congou and Souchong teas. 
 
 The average jter capita consumption is computed for 
 the United Kingdom 5 Bbs.; United States, 1| fbs.; 
 Holland, 1 Bb.; Russia, 4 oz.; France, 1 oz. ; Germany, 
 J oz., and for the Australian colonies, 3 Bbs. 
 
 From these statements it becomes apparent that 
 nearly 90 per cent. c)f all the tea exported from China, 
 Japan and India, is consumed by English-speaking 
 people, and of this over 75 per cent, is consumed by 
 England alone and her colonies. 
 
Chapter X. 
 
 TEA-CUL^rURE, A PROBABLE AMERICAN 
 INDUSTRY. 
 
 General LeDuc, Ex-Commissioner of Agriculture, has 
 recently expressed the opinion that the cultivation of 
 the Chinese tea-plant is entirely practicable in the 
 United States, and that we may, by an effort in that di- 
 rection, save the large amount of money which we pay 
 to foreign countries annually for this staple. So far as 
 the practicability of its culture is concerned, there is 
 hardly a doubt that Commissioner LeDuc's view is cor- 
 rect, for we have within the various latitudes of our 
 borders the soil and climate to produce almost any plant 
 grown ; but the question of making the production of 
 tea a commercial success is, by many, considered an 
 open one. 
 
 Many contending, that while we can undoubtedly 
 cultivate tea successfully in many sections of the country 
 we cannot supply the cheap and skilled labor necessary 
 to prepare it for market, for from the time a tea is 
 picked until it is packed for export, it is subject to a 
 continued series of manipulations, demanding an im- 
 mense amount of cheap and skilled labor, without which 
 it is next to impossible to produce a merchantable article 
 as by fer the greater part of the cost of producing tea is 
 that of labor. 
 
178 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 Yet, while admitting the force of this argument, it is 
 yet possible for our shrewd Yankee inventors to pro- 
 duce machinery for many of the intricate processes now 
 in use in China and other tea-growing countries. 
 
 The manufacture of tea, as at present conducted, is no 
 doubt a very particular operation, much of the sup- 
 posed value of the article depending upon the uniform 
 accuracy with which the various processes are conducted. 
 
 This is more particularly the case with China teas, 
 and is largely attributed to the routine nature of the 
 methods employed, as contrasted with specific and exact 
 systems. 
 
 The planters of India soon discovered that they could 
 not profitably follow the various minute processes and 
 details, as practiced by the Chinese, and set themselves to 
 study the philosophy of the whole subject of the prepar- 
 ation of the tea leaf for market. 
 
 The result has been that many operations which were 
 formerly considered necessary, have been reduced or dis- 
 pensed wilh altogether. Instead of following the Chi- 
 nese methods, which involved twelve operations, occu- 
 pying three days, the best teas in India are now pre- 
 pared by five operations, which are completed in two 
 days. 
 
 It will probably be many years before tea culture will 
 engage the general attention of farmers and planters in 
 this country. There are many reasons why this may be 
 expected, but none why it should be so. 
 
 The profits of the culture are not established, the 
 management of the plant, and the proper application of 
 the processes must be for many years of a purely exper- 
 imental character, and even when seemiugly fair tests 
 
Tea-Culture, Etc. 179 
 
 have been made failures will occur, and although these 
 efforts may be traced to causes, which persistent effort 
 would overcome, yet when there is outlay and loss, ac- 
 companied with some doubt as to ultimate success, the 
 effort will in most cases be abandoned. 
 
 It is generally understood that much of the manipu- 
 lation given to tea in Asiatic countries, is for the pur- 
 pose of fitting it for ocean voyages ; for this transporta- 
 tion the leaves must be repeatedly sorted before shipping, 
 and thus the aroma developed is largely dissipated be- 
 fore the tea reaches its destination. The best teas are 
 only to be had in their highest excellence in the tea 
 growing countries, where they can only be procured be- 
 fore they have been submitted to all the severity of the 
 heroic processes which they have to undergo before be- 
 ing packed for long voyages in the holds of vessels. 
 
 This superior article is unknown in this country; it is 
 one of the luxuries in store for us, when tea-culture be- 
 comes one of our industries. 
 
 It may therefore be found that for home consumption 
 only, a less elaborate method of preparation may suffice, 
 and that the article may enter into domestic commerce, 
 put up in the same manner as hops, or in cakes of dried 
 leaves, pressed into solid shapes, as is done with many 
 other herbs, and the roasting which develops the aroma 
 be done immediately before use, as is now done with 
 coffee: probably it will be ultimately roasted and ground 
 like coffee to secure the most delicate beverage. 
 
 Seeing that much of the care bestowed upon the 
 manufacture of tea is merely for the purpose of meet- 
 ing commercial exactions in regard to the appearance of 
 the article, it may be, that by ignoring mere appearance 
 
i8o A Cup of Tea. 
 
 altogether, an equally good beverage may be produced 
 by an entirely different system of preparation of the 
 leaf. What has already been accomplished by modern 
 tea manufacturers in the way of improvements, in India 
 for instance, upon the older pessimistic Asiatic methods, 
 only suggests that still further innovations are possible. 
 
 "We secure the essential virtues of other herbs without 
 subjecting them to such complicated processes which, 
 after all, are mainly to prevent the leaf from moulding 
 and decomposition, and there seems to be no valid reason 
 why tea should differ from other herbs in this respect. 
 
 Any attempt to estimate the profits of tea-culture in 
 this country would simply prove futile ; this can only 
 be reached after we have seen the results of actual and 
 fairly conducted experiments. A writer from Florida 
 remarks, that " we should grow our own tea, but we do 
 not, and will not, until something is done to promote an 
 interest in the matter." 
 
 It has been suggested that the United States Govern- 
 ment could, at a comparatively small cost, materially 
 assist in determining as to the feasibility of tea-culture 
 in this country, and the solution of the question of 
 profit. 
 
 Doubts have been expressed as to the suitability of 
 our soil and climate to produce as good an article of tea 
 as that produced in Asia. Practical cultivators are 
 aware that soils and climates exert certain influences 
 upon vegetation, but these influences are potent every- 
 where. Natural causes are not spasmodic in their opera- 
 tions. 
 
 Doubts have also been expressed regarding our ability 
 to furnish cheap, skilled or abundant labor. 
 
Tea-Culture, Etc. i8i 
 
 These questions could all be answered in a few years, 
 if the government were to secure, say, twenty acres of 
 land in a suitable locality, and plant a portion of it 
 yearly with tea-plants until ten or twelve acres were 
 planted. Then, when the plants become sufficiently 
 matured, provide a small laboratory fitted with the 
 necessary apparatus, and place it in charge of a compe- 
 tent person who would make such experiments in the 
 preparation of the leaf as may be suggested. This 
 service need not cost more than $20,000 or $25,000, but 
 it would require at least five years for its completion. 
 
 According to Mr. Saunders, Superintendent of the 
 gardens and grounds of the Department of Agriculture 
 at Washington, from whom wo are compelled to borrow 
 liberally in the compilation of this chapter, the culti- 
 vation of the tea-plant is as simple as that of the cur- 
 rant or gooseberry, and when cultivated for its leaves, 
 it soon assumes the appearance of a low spreading bush, 
 although if left to its natural proclivities, it reaches the 
 proportions of a slender tree, attaining a height of from 
 15 to 20 feet. 
 
 Tea plantations may be established in a similar man- 
 ner to those of other economic plants. The uncertain 
 method of trying to secure a uniform plantation by 
 dropping the seeds at the spots in the field where the 
 plants are to be permanently located, may be dispensed 
 with. The most satisfactory mode of establishing a 
 plantation is to sow the seeds in nursery rows, and when 
 the plants have attained a sufficient size remove and 
 transplant them to their permanent sites. They will 
 reach to a height of 8 to 12 inches the first year, and are 
 then considered strong enough to bear transplanting. 
 
A Cup of Tea. 
 
 It may be mentioned that the seeds require to be covered 
 with about one inch of soil, and shaded from the sun. 
 This is absolutely necessary, otherwise the young points 
 of the plants shrivel up as soon as they emerge from 
 the soil. The Japanese, in the spring, when the tea- 
 shrubs are just budding, protect them for about twenty 
 days from the heat of the sun by matting stretched over 
 poles about eight feet high. 
 
 After various attempts, Mr. Saunders says, he found 
 that a covering of short hay, spread rather thickly over 
 the seed bed, was the best protection ; the young plants 
 gradually pushing through this covering as they con- 
 tinued to grow. 
 
 The plants should be placed in rows four to five feet 
 apart, the same distance being allowed between the 
 plants in the rows. For the convenience of culture, it is 
 preferable placing the rows six feet apart, and the plants 
 four feet from each other in the rows. For the first two 
 or three years, some crops, such as potatoes, may be 
 planted between the rows, and probably high growing 
 crops, such as corn or cotton, might be grown, the shade 
 and shelter thus obtained being favorable to the growth 
 of the young tea-plants. 
 
 Even under the most favorable cpnditions for growth, 
 no leaves should be gathered until the fourth year from 
 the planting. Picking the leaves for tea too soon, has 
 a tendency to weaken the plants, hence they shoidd be 
 robust and healthy and well established before picking 
 is commenced. Much of the success in the manage- 
 ment of a tea plantation depends upon the discrimina- 
 tion used in picking lightly from weak plants, or in 
 
Tea-Culture, Etc. 183 
 
 passing them altogether for a season, thus enabling 
 them to acquire additional strength. 
 
 The pruning of a tea-plant is also of much import- 
 ance. During the period of preparatory growth, that 
 is, during the iir.rit five years, an annual inspection 
 should be given the plants in early winter for tlie pur- 
 pose of trimming off all strong shoots that may seem 
 to impair the shape of the plant; the object being to 
 secure a bushy, much branching habit, which is favor- 
 able to producing the greatest quantity of the most 
 desirable kind of leaves. 
 
 Whenever a plant becomes weakened by the period- 
 ical removal of leaves, it can be restored to vigo» by 
 thinning out many of the branches, and cutting the 
 whole of them quite close down during winter. This 
 will be followed by a more vigorous growtii the follow- 
 ing summer which should not be checked by picking 
 any of the leaves, or otherwise retarding the growth 
 during the season, thus increasing the root growth for 
 future extension of shoots and leaves. 
 
 When the plants have gained a proper size to furnish 
 a crop, and the young shoots have expanded a sufficient 
 quantity of leaves, the leaf-pickers commence work. 
 This operation may be thus described. Each picker has 
 a basket slung at the back, and with both hands strips 
 the shoots of the leaves required, taking care not to 
 injure the auxiliary buds as they have to yield the next 
 crop. The leaves as they are collected are thrown over 
 the shoulder into the basket. A good picker ought to 
 collect 50 pounds of green leaves in a long day's work, 
 but half that quantity would be considered a fair average. 
 
 It requires about four pounds of these green leaves to 
 
1 84 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 make one pound of cured tea. The earliest pickings 
 make the best tea. 
 
 The rolling is done in India by machinery, but fin- 
 ished by hand, an expert rolling and finishing about 
 thirty pounds per day. 
 
 Hard rolling gives darker colored and stronger 
 liquor than light rolling, but the hard rolled teas are 
 considered richer and better. 
 
 Wiien the rolling process is completed, the leaves are 
 allowed to remain for a certain time to ferment. There 
 is no specified time for the fermenting period. The 
 time is only learned by experience. It is much quicker 
 in warm than in cool weather. The fermentation is 
 stopped by shaking up the leaves, unrolling and spread- 
 ing them out very thin. 
 
 They are then spread out on mats and exposed to the 
 sun, and turned over repeatedly so that the whole may 
 be equally affected by its heat. This is termed the 
 sunning process. With bright sunshine, about one 
 hour's exposure will be sufficient ; the leaves will be 
 then ready for the final process of firing. 
 
 Until recently it was considered essential that the 
 heat for the final drying or firing the tea should be de- 
 rived from burning charcoal, it even being asserted 
 that the fumes of charcoal were necessary to make good 
 tea ; but it is now settled that the only effect of heat is to 
 drive all the moisture out of the leaves, and heat 
 from any source will serve the purpose. 
 
 In India the firing is done by furnaces which are 
 heated by any kind of fuel convenient, and it is claimed 
 that it has many advantages over the old charcoal 
 method. It is considered more economical, cleaner, 
 
Tea-Culture, Etc. 185 
 
 safer, in fact superior in every . respect ; another evi- 
 dence that tea manufacture is not the mysterious, com- 
 plicated and impossible process that for centuries it was 
 supposed to be. After the leaves have been thoroughly 
 dried and become crisp it is called tea. The manufac- 
 ture being completed for Black teas. It is perhaps 
 necessary to repeat that in India, Green and Black teas 
 are prepared from the same variety of plant, where both 
 kinds are made. 
 
 After the first gathering, the plants will soon again 
 be covered with young leaves, especially if moist weather 
 prevails. A rainy season at this period would prove of 
 the greatest value, but in its absence irrigation miglit be 
 introduced with the best results. Copious rainfalls dur- 
 ing the months of May and June would insure an 
 abundant crop, and also characterize a climate well 
 adapted to the culture of tea. The pickings will con- 
 tinue more or less_during the season of growth. They 
 are much influenced by rainfall, soil and heat. The 
 average being three to four. 
 
 In our efforts to produce teas in this country the dif- 
 ficulties and repeated failures in the attempts in India 
 must not be lost sight of. 
 
 As before shown it was not until 1842 that the first 
 organized attempt was made in India. The Indian gov- , 
 ernment at that period, seeing the immense benefit that 
 would naturally result from the encouragement of the 
 industry, after several unsuccessful attempts, they finally 
 decided to import experienced cultivators and manipu- 
 lators of the leaf from China, who superintended the 
 early efforts of the Indian tea-growers. 
 
1 86 A Cup OF Tea. 
 
 Notwithstanding this fact, it was not until after nearly 
 twenty years of Indian tea growing that scarcely a suffi- 
 cient quantity was produced to bring it commercially 
 into use. About 1860 it was first used and appreciated 
 only hy dealers and consumers, for the purpose of ad- 
 ding strength and flavor to the China teas. The prices 
 at that time ranged from a dollar to a dollar and a 
 quarter per lb. for the finer sorts, and there seemed to be 
 such a future before teas of such excellence that tea grow- 
 ing became the speculation of the time. The next five 
 years showed wretched results; the tea was inferior 
 and badly made, and nearly half the crop became sour 
 before it reached England. 
 
 The planters saw that they must improve the quality 
 of their crops if they would have Indian teas regain 
 their position, and steady improvement was made ever 
 afterward, until the plant of India now rajiks with those 
 of China and Japan. 
 
 The placing of Indian teas among the teas of com- 
 merce really dates but from 1870, and their entrance 
 into this country from 1880 ; Indian teas at the present 
 time being principally used for blending purposes by many 
 of our leading dealers through the country, in many 
 cases as much as one half of India tea being used. 
 
 For the benefit of those who may attempt the cultiva- 
 tion and manufacture of tea, the operations of tea man- 
 ufacture as adopted in India is apj)ended. 
 
 1st— Withering the leaf. 2d— Rolling it. 3(1— Fer- 
 menting. 4th — Sunning. 5th — Firing, as before de- 
 scribed. 
 
Tea-Culture, Etc. 187 
 
 To make good tea each of these different processes 
 must be carried to a certain point and no further. 
 
 Under withered leaves may be detected in the process 
 of rolling, by breaking and giving out large quantities 
 of a light green juice during the process. 
 
 Overwithered leaves on the other hand take a good 
 twist in the rolling, and give out but little juice, thick, 
 and of a reddish color. 
 
 There are several tests to show when the leaves are 
 properly withered. Fresh or underwithered leaves 
 squeezed in the hand and held near the ear will crackle, 
 but no sound is made by properly withered leaves. The 
 stalks of well withered leaves will bend double without 
 breaking, and the leaves retain the shape into which they 
 have been pressed in the hand. Properly withered 
 leaves feel like old rags when laid hold of, and no fur- 
 ther test than the feel of the leaf will be necessary after 
 a little experience. 
 
 The rolling of the leaves is for the purpose of twist- 
 ing them, and also for the removal of a portion of the 
 juice. This latter, however, is said to detract from the 
 value of the tea, and one of the reasons given why In- 
 dian teas are so much stronger than Chinese teas is, that 
 while in India the sap or juice is retained, in China it is 
 allowed to run off. 
 
 The fact that in China in certain districts Green tea 
 is made exclusively, while in other districts Black teas 
 only are made, has been adduced in support of the sup- 
 position that the plants producing each kind are distinct. 
 The true cause being that one species is better adapted for 
 the preparation of Green teas, the other for Black — 
 a difference mostly attributable to climate and soil — • 
 
1 88 A Cup of Tea. 
 
 small leaved varieties of the tea-plant of a rapidly 
 elongated succulent growth being best adapted for the 
 production of Green teas; this is why the Chinese variety 
 are considered better adapted for the preparation of 
 Green teas, than the Assamese species, being of a more 
 robust growth. 
 
 In the manufacture of Green teas in India the leaf 
 is neither withered nor fermented, but as soon as the 
 leaves are picked they are placed in pans which have 
 been previously heated to about 160 degrees Fah. 
 Here they are stirred with sticks for about 10 minutes 
 when they become moist and pliable. 
 
 They are then removed from the pans and rolled for 
 two or three minutes with the hands until they become 
 slightly twisted ; the leaves are then spread in the sun 
 and ' subjected to a rolling process, which imparts to 
 them a round appearance. They are then placed on the 
 pans as before and continually stirred with sticks until 
 they become very hot, then emptied into bags and stuffed 
 tightly where they remain for 10 or 12 hours. 
 
 They are again emptied and put on the pans for the 
 third time to be finished. The pans are heated to 160 
 degrees, and allowed to reduce in heat to 120 degrees at 
 the finish. This last panning requires from 8 to 9 hours 
 constant stirring, for upon this last firing depends the 
 production of the green color. 
 
 It is a laborious operation, and after all the color of 
 Green teas depends simply upon the rapidity of the 
 drying process and the omitting of the fermentation. 
 
 In a special report of the Department of Agriculture, 
 issued in 1877, we find extracts from letters submitted 
 
Tea-Culture, Etc. 189 
 
 by cultivators of the tea-plant in the United States, some 
 of which are here inserted. 
 
 Mr. Thomas M. Cox, Greenville, S. C, says : 
 
 Dr. Junius Smith was probably the first person who introduced 
 the tea-plant into South Carolina. He was very successful, but is 
 now deceased, and his plants, without protection, were lost. I ob- 
 tained, in 1857 or 185S, from the Patent Office, a, box of tea plants. 
 I gave the most of them away, and retained a few myself. They have 
 grown well without any protection, in the open air, and have at- 
 tained a height of 8 or 10 feet. They have frequently matured the 
 seed, and there are a number of the seed ou the ground at this time. 
 They are an evergreen in this climate, and are now in flower, with 
 the seed of last year's growth fully matured upon the bush. I have 
 never succeeded in making tea from the leaves, not knowing the pro- 
 cess of manipulating them. 
 
 Mr. J. J. Lucas, Society Hill, S. C, says : 
 
 The tea-plant has been grown successfully in this State, Georgia, 
 and Louisiana. Dr. Junius Smith, late of Greenvile, S. G., planted it 
 more extensively than any one else in this State, but concluded that 
 labor was too costly to make the culture profitable. Dr. Thomas 
 Smith, of this place, and General Gillespie, of Cheraw, obtained a few 
 plants about the same time that Dr. Junius Smith did, but did not at- 
 tempt to make tea. General Gillespie's plants are still living and 
 thriving. On the Middleton place, Ashley River, near Charleston, 
 tea-plants are now growing for ornamental use only, and are 10 feet 
 high. A gentleman in Georgia (says the rural Carolinian) obtained 
 441 pounds of tea from one acre of land, which at 50 cents a pound, 
 would bring $220.50; while our average yield of cotton is only about 
 $15 per acre ; our best $40. 
 
 Dr. Turner Wilson Windsor, N. C, says : 
 
 I send you a package of green' tea-leaves, blossoms, and » few 
 seed in the capsules. I have no person that understands curing the 
 leaves, but will send a package of the dried leaves as I term them' 
 I frequently drink a simple infusion o'f the leaves dried in the shade 
 ^in the attic), and though not so good as the Chinese preparation, yet 
 I know that I am drinking the pure tea, without any coloring 
 matter. 
 
igo A (jup OF 1*tiA. 
 
 I have been raising tea since 1858, but without much cultiva- 
 tion. My yard and garden are sandy soil, and the plants or bushes, 
 without any cultivation, are of slow growth. I plant the seed about 
 the 1st of April, but they come up under the bushes very thick from 
 the fallen seed. Sometimes I throw a little dirt on the seed which I- 
 do not pick up. I have several hundred plants under the bushes, 
 from 4 to 12 inches high, and about fifty in my front yard. I have 
 never sold any seeds or plants, but could do so. I have distributed 
 them from Maryland to Texas in small quantities. The leaves may 
 be picked in May, July and September. The last any time before 
 frost. The cost of picking would be a mere trifle, as one hand could 
 pick two or three bushels a day. 
 
 James H. Rion, Esq., Winfeboro, S. C, says : 
 I have no experience in the making of tea, but can certify to the 
 adaptability of the soil and climate of my section to the growth ot 
 the plant itself. I live in Fairfield County, which is a little north of 
 the center of the State. In the fall of 1859 I received from the Pat- 
 ent Office, Washington (of which the Agricultural Department is a 
 part successor), a very tiny tea-plant, which I placed in my flower- 
 garden as a curiosity. It has grown well, has always been free from 
 any disease, has had full outdoor exposure, and attained its present 
 height (5 feet 8 inches) in the year 1865. Since then it has been oc- 
 casionally trimmed. The bush is like a ball resting on the ground, 
 its breadtb being equal to its height. It is continually producing 
 perfect seeds, which readily germinate and produce healthy seedlings. 
 The seeds are the size of small filberts. This shows that the plant 
 finds itself entirely at home where it is growing. There cannot be 
 the least doubt but that the tea-plant will flourish in South Carolina. 
 
 Mr. W. M.' Ives, Jr., Lake City, Fla., says : 
 The seeds of the tea-plant were obtained from the Patent Office 
 about the year 1858. The plants can be propagated either from seeds 
 or slips. It is an evergreen shrub. I think five years from seed, or 
 three years from slips, would be as early as a crop of leaves could be 
 taken. After that the crop would increase annually. 
 
 Its cultivation might be made .profitable, but our people do not pay 
 enough attention to such objects as promise returns in future years. 
 The method of drying the leaves is a very simple process. Many 
 families already possess a number of tea-plants, but they grow them 
 simply for their beauty and novelty. Tea can be grown in Georgia 
 
i'EA-Cui-TtJRE, Jixc. igi 
 
 as well as in Florida. We should grow our own tea, but we do not' 
 and will not, unless something is done to promote an interest in the 
 matter. 
 
 Dr. A. W. Thornton, Portland, Oreg., says: 
 
 Some years ago a capitalist, Mr. Samuel Brannan, started the cul- 
 tivation of tea at Calidtoga, in Napa County, California, but through 
 some mismanagement at the outset the crop did not succeed. And as 
 at that time capitalists could make their three per cent, a month in 
 other enterprises, Mr. Brannan saw no money in it, and abandoned 
 the enterprise. But to this day solitary plants can be seen in that 
 looaliiy, exhibiting vigorous growth, proving the suitability of both 
 soil and climate. Since that time a gentleman (name forgotten) 
 started a plantation of tea at Modesto, iu the foot-hills of the Sierra 
 Nevada Mountains, Stanislaus County, California, in which the plants 
 have done so well that from the last accounts he was so far encouraged 
 as to extend his plantation; but as yet I have not heard of it as com- 
 ing into che market as a finished article of commerce. 
 
 With regard to Oregon and Washington Territory, I am not aware 
 that the experiment has been tried yet, although there are localities 
 in Southern Oregon, about Jackson County and the Eogue River 
 country, and perhaps east of the Cascade Range, where the summers 
 are warmer and the winters are colder and drier, in which the plant 
 would flourish, though subject to a ground freeze in winter. In the 
 Willamette Valley the Wistaria sinensis does well in the open air, but 
 Fuchsias and Salvia splendens require to be taken into shelter in 
 winter. 
 
 That the tea-plant is admirably suited to Northern California and 
 Southern Oregon I have no question ; more especially as the light on 
 this coast is so abundantly charged with actinic rays, as shown by 
 the richness of the foliage and gorgeous tints of the fruits and au- 
 tumnal foliage, supports the view that any plant, the active principle 
 of which is located in the leaves, would prima fade yield a richer 
 product where actinic rays are abundant (which are known to have 
 an important influence upon chlorophyl and leaf-development) than 
 in less favored climes. 
 
 Mr. Aethue p. Ford, Charleston, S. C, says: 
 About four or five years ago I obtained from a friend some seeds of 
 the tea-plant, and planted them in my garden, twenty-one miles 
 from Charleston, inland. The plants came up readily, were duly 
 
tqi A Cup op Tea; 
 
 transplanted, and are now fine shrubs three feet high, and seven in 
 number. The foilage is luxuriant ; and the plants bear the coldest 
 weather here without any ill effects ; the mercury on mora than one 
 occasion marking 16 ° ; and the plants being encased in ice at other 
 times also. 
 
 I am satisfied that both tea and cofiFee plants would succeed in the 
 South, and it would be well if our planters could be induced to ex- 
 periment with both. 
 
 William Summer, Esq., Newberry Co., South Caro- 
 lina, says: 
 
 There are several healthy, vigorous tea-plants growing in Colum- 
 bia ; these plants have been cut back to keep them in proper condi- 
 tion in the grounds where planted. 1 have seen at the Greenville res- 
 idence of the late Hon. J. R. Poinsett the tea- plants growing finely, of 
 those introduced by Dr. Junius Smith. And he remarked to me that , 
 we have here the Olea fragrans' {!ia,gTa,nt olive), with which we can 
 flavor the tea equal to any prepared for the special use of the Em- 
 peror of China. The fragrant olive blooms freely from early spring 
 until midwinter, and the flowers, when gathered fresh and put in the 
 caddy among the tea, impart a delightful aroma to the tea. I have 
 at different times imported a few tea-plants from Angers, France, and 
 these have been disseminated from the Fomaria nurseries, and found 
 to succeed. I have no doubt of the success of the tea-plant in the 
 middle and upper portions of this State. 
 
 Col. S. D. MoEQAN, Nashville, Tenn., says : 
 Of all the plants for the South Atlantic States, that of the Chinese 
 or Japanese tea promises most success. Before the war I had a few 
 of the shrubs growing in a small parterre attached to my town 
 dwelling, from which I obtained leaves as rich in aroma and "theinc" 
 as is to be found in tea from any country whatever. 
 
 The shrub grows luxuriantly in Central Georgia — even 100 miles 
 north of Augusta, to my personal knowledge — as I there used the do- 
 mestic article for several weeks' time and found it excellent. There 
 may, however, be a difficulty about its culture, for want of a very 
 cheap class of laborers to pick and prepare the leaves. This, how- 
 ever, is a subject I have not investigated, but I think it is worthy of 
 a thorough investigation. 
 
Tea-Culture, Etc. 193 
 
 * Miss M. C. McFall, High Shoals, Anderson 
 County, South Carolina, says : 
 
 I take pleasure in informing you that I have a tea-plant which I 
 have had fifteen years, and which was sent me by Col. J. D. Ash- 
 more while he was in Congress. It has remained in the center of the 
 garden where it was originally planted, and has had no care or cul- 
 tivation. Fifty plants, I suppose, could have been reset from the 
 young seedlings sprung up beneath it from the fallen seeds, but I 
 was afraid to disturb them. This year I have cured some of the 
 leaves, and will send you a sample. I have had no one to show me 
 how to prepare them. I have given away five pounds, of the tea, 
 and have been using it in the family all the year. The plant is an 
 evergreen, and stands the winters perfectly well. It is 8 feet in 
 height, 4 feet in diameter, and never has been pruned or trimmed. 
 
 Mr. Alex. M. Foestee, Georgetown, S. C, says : 
 The original plSnt I brought from, Columbia, S. C. It is a genuine 
 Theayiridis, from seed, I think, produced from the tea-plants brought 
 to this State some years since by Dr. Junius Smith, and cultivated 
 near Greenville. After my plant had attained the height of two or 
 three feet, it began to bear flowers and seed. From these seeds, or 
 nuts, I have now 50 or 60 plants of various sizes ; some of them 
 bearing fruit also./ I might have had 500 plants as well as 50, so 
 easily are they propagated and so abundantly do they bear seed. 
 The only care necessary is to preserve the tap-root as carefully as 
 may be in removing the young plants from the nursery bed. My 
 plants are in a rich, dry soil, and grow very rapidly, requiring only 
 three or four years to reach the height of4 feet. They are as thrifty 
 and bear the vicissitudes of our climate as well as the native Cassina 
 {Hex Casdne). I have several times picked (in April) a quantity of 
 the young leaves, and commenced the process of curing them accord- 
 ing to the directions given by_ Mr. Fortune (see Agricultural Reports, 
 1853), but I have never had thg perseverance to carry out fully the 
 entire process, as it occupies hours to complete it, and requires the 
 patience of a Chinaman ; yet I have made some fair black tea, better 
 than much that is said to have come from China and for which I 
 have paid 11.25 per pound. 
 
 If there could be invented some machine to imitate this hand labor, 
 to effect the same slow process by means less expensive than the hu- 
 
194 A Cifp OF Tea. 
 
 man hand, I think that the oultivatipn of tea might become not only 
 practicable, but profitable to a large portion of our Southern country. 
 
 Eev. W. A. Meriwether, Columbia, S. C, says: 
 
 I obtained a Chinese tea-plant from North Carolina nine year's ago, . 
 and Bet it out in open ground in a plat of Bermuda grass. It has re- 
 ceived no cultivation, and is now a fine shrub, measuring to-day six 
 and a half feet in height by nine feet across the branches at the base. 
 The soil where it grows is light, sandy land, with no clay within two 
 feet of the surface. 
 
 The plant is not affected by the severest cold to which our climate 
 is subject. It was not the least injured by the intense cold of De- 
 cember, 1870, when my thermometer registered 1° above zero; the 
 coldest weather I have ever known in this latitude. 
 
 My plant blooms from the latter part of August on to December, 
 and makes a beautiful ornamental shrub. It is evergreen. I have 
 obtained tea of the best quality from the Cured leav.es. The process 
 of preparing the leaves for use is the same as that given in the 
 -Southern Cultivator, January number, 1872. There have been suc- 
 cessful experiments made with this plant in Florida and in Georgia. 
 That the climate of the Southern States is well suited to the cultiva- 
 tion of the tea-plant I think there can be no question. 1 sincerely 
 hope you.may succeed in your efforts to arouse our people to the im- 
 portance of its cultivation. If only enough tea were made to supply 
 the home demand, what an immense annual saving would result. 
 
 Hon. James Edward Calhoun, Trotter's Shoals, 
 Savannah River, S. C, says: 
 
 Few words will suffice to detail my experience. Eighteen years 
 ago some half-dozen tea-plants, brought from China, were sent me. 
 I set them in what had been a strawberry-bed, in a soil friable, of 
 medium quality, unmanured. The war and its consequences super- 
 vening, I have contented myself with merely securing a supply of 
 tea for my household. Nothing has been done beyond keeping down 
 the weeds with the hoe. The plants have had no protection; butduring 
 a portion of the first summer, seedlings have some shelter. As yet 
 there has been no damage from blight or from insects. Frequently 
 leaves are clipped in moderation from all parts of the bush, care 
 being taken not to denude. They are parched in an iron vessel 
 at the kitchen fire, constantly stirred, and immediately afterward 
 packed in air-tight boxes_ To prepare theni fgj infusion, thay are 
 
Tea-Culture, Etc. 195 
 
 ground in a coffee-mill. I inclose leaves plucked to-day, measuring 
 from: 3 J to 5 inches, and as you will perceive exhibiting three varie- 
 ties. 
 
 The capsules of the tea-nuts afford the most pleasant of bitters. 
 They were saved and given to the matron, an item in her materia 
 medica for my people, long before I heard that a physician in 
 Georgia had carefully tested the "tea-hull," and found it to possess 
 all the properties of the cinchona. 
 
 Mrs. R. J. Screven, Mcintosh, Liberty Co., Ga., 
 
 says: 
 
 My experience is that it does best in land somewhat low, but not 
 such as water will lie upon or is overflowed. I sow the seed in the 
 fall, as soon as they ripen and drop from the bushes, in drills 
 eighteen inches apart. They come up readily in the spring, and by 
 winter are from three to six inches high. Under the shade of some 
 large tree is usually the place selected for sowing the seed, for if the 
 plants are exposed to the hot sun while young, they invariably die 
 the first summer. When six months old they are ready for trans- 
 planting; have generally a good supply of roots, and can be set out 
 any time from the first of November to the last of March. In put- 
 ting them out, I hav,e generally prepared holes to receive them, to 
 give a good start, so that fine, healthy bushes will be obtained. 
 
 The fea, when young and not large enough to shade its own roots, 
 is very sensitive to the heat of the sun. This shading being some- 
 what troublesome, I have adopted another plan. It is this : to set 
 out the plants under the shade of some large bush or tree until they 
 are about two feet high, then take them up carefully, cut off nearly 
 all the tops, and plant out in their permanent places. As soon as 
 spring opens, they will put out sufficient leaves to shade their own 
 roots. In April, 1867, I think it was, Mr. Howard, from Baltimore, 
 who has been engaged on a plantation- for several years in the East, 
 visited my father's plantation in this county. He expressed himself 
 as surprised at the splendid growth of the tea. Being there at the 
 time of gathering the young leaves, he plucked from one bush alone, 
 prepared the tea himself, and took it on to Baltimore, where he had 
 it tested and weighed. He wrote back that it had been pronoanced 
 stronger and of superior flavor to the imported, and that by calcula- 
 tion he was satisfied that four hundred and fifty pounds of. cured tea 
 could be made here at the South to one acre of ground. 
 
196 A Cup OF Tea. 
 
 Mr. J. W. Peaece, Fayetteville, N. C, says : 
 The original seeds were sent to me about the year 1860 or 61, by 
 Hon. Warren Winslow the member of Congress from this district. I 
 planted them in light sunny soil, and- they have grown and flourished 
 ever since, without any particular attention. 
 
 My plants are now a,bout five feet high, and very thick and btishy 
 near th'e ground, covering a place as large as a molasses hogshead ; 
 have no protection from any .kind of weather. The mecury has 
 been as low as 10° below zero. They do not seem to suffer from 
 drought, are ever green, and bear a beautiful white flower, with little 
 scent until nearly ready to fall. The bee? are very fond of the flowers. 
 The seed are like the hazel-nut ; have a hard shell and a bitter ker- 
 nel, and take a long time to germinate. Hence it is better to plant 
 them onjhe north side of a fence or house, where they will remain 
 moist. They come up readily when left under the bushes where they 
 have dropped. The plants can then be set out successfully, care be- 
 ing taken to avoid breaking the Ipng tap-root peculiar to them. My 
 plants have never suffered from insects of any kind. Half a dozen 
 plants fur.nish my family, of five or siz persons, with more tea thjtn 
 we can use. We prepare it by heating the leaves in an oven until 
 wilted, then squeeze them by hand until a juice is expressed from them, 
 then dry them again in the oven. The tea is then quite fragrant and 
 ready for- use. It improves by age. We pick the leaves about three 
 times during the year. The younger the leaves the better the tea. 
 I tbiuk it will grow in any ordinary soil, clay or sand. The seed 
 shoiild be planted about the month of January. 
 
 Much more evidence could be selected as to the quality 
 of tea produced by ordinary domestic processes, but it is 
 sufficiently well ascertained that it is within the capacity 
 of hundreds of thousands of people in this country to 
 grow and prepare all the tea they require, leaving the 
 question of its profitable commercial culture to be settled 
 by practical test.