HQW-TO COOK 
 EGGS 
 
 AND- OMELETS 
 
 IN -300 
 
 DIFFERENT 
 
 WAYS 
 
 CHERMANSENN 
 
^4 
 
Cornell University Library 
 TX 745.S4 
 
 How to cook eggs and omelets in 300 diff 
 
 3 1924 000 693 931 
 
 FROM THE LIBRARY OF 
 
 James B. Herndon, Jr. 
 
 PRESENTED BY HIM TO THE 
 
 School of Hotel 
 A dminhtration 
 
 CORNELL UNIVERSITY 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
 tine Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000693931 
 
HOW TO COOK 
 EGGS AND OMELETS 
 
HOW TO COOK 
 EGGS AND OMELETS 
 
 IN 300 DIFFERENT WAYS 
 
 By 
 
 C. HERMAN SENN, O.B.E., G.C.A., 
 
 F.R.H.S. 
 
 Author of 
 
 "The Century Cookery Book," "The Menu Book," 
 
 "Luncheon and Dinner Sweets," "Breakfast 
 
 Dishes and Savouries," " Summer and 
 
 Winter Drinks," etc. 
 
 NEW EDITION 
 
 WARD, LOCK & CO., LIMITED 
 
 tONDON AND MELBOURNE 
 
-S4 
 
 
 KADB IN ENGLAND 
 
 Printed in Great Britain by 
 Butler & Tanner Ltd., Frome and London 
 
EGGS AS FOOD 
 
 THERE is perhaps no other article of 
 diet which is more important as 
 a food than eggs, and few articles 
 are served in a greater variety of ways 
 or more largely consumed. Besides those 
 of the domestic fowl, the eggs of the duck, 
 the goose, the guinea fowl, the plover, 
 the ostrich and several other birds, and 
 the turtle, are also used for cooking pur- 
 poses. Hens' eggs are, of course, the 
 most popular, and for ordinary use are 
 therefore most common. 
 
 Dr. Langworthy, in his article, " Eggs 
 and their Uses," gives the following inter- 
 esting information : — 
 
 " Other eggs besides those of birds are 
 sometimes eaten. Turtle eggs are highly 
 prized in most countries where they are 
 abundant. They were once more com- 
 monly eaten in America than now, possibly 
 owing to the more abundant supply in 
 former times. The eggs of the terrapin 
 are usually served with the flesh in some 
 of the ways of preparing it for the table. 
 Fish eggs, especially those of the sturgeon, 
 are eaten in large quantities, preserved 
 5 
 
6 EGGS AS FOOD 
 
 with salt, under the name of caviare. Shad 
 roe is also a famiUar example of the use of 
 fish eggs as food. Mention may also be 
 made of the use of the eggs of alligators, 
 lizards, serpents, and some insects, by 
 races who lack the prejudices of Western 
 nations. However, in general, the term 
 ' eggs,' when used in connection with 
 food topics, refers to the eggs of birds, 
 usuaUy domestic poultry, and is so used 
 in this article. 
 
 " The appearance of an egg — ^the shell 
 with its hning of membrane, enclosing the 
 white and yolk — ^is too familiar to need any 
 discussion. The physiological structure of 
 the egg is perhaps less familiar. A fer- 
 tile egg contains an embryo, and is at the 
 same time a storehouse of material for the 
 development and growth of the young 
 individual from the embryo, until it has 
 reached such a stage that life is possible 
 outside the narrow limits of the shell. 
 The embryo is situated quite close to the 
 yolk, which furnishes the nutritive mate- 
 rial for its early development, the white 
 being used later." 
 
CONTENTS AND INDEX 
 
 PAGS 
 
 A 
 
 Almond Eggs (moulded) 28 
 
 Anchovy Eggs (oold) gg 
 
 Anchovy Eggs (another way) 40 
 
 Aspic or Savoury Jeily 131 
 
 B 
 
 Baked Eggs 4 la Princesse <j 
 
 Bechamel Sauce 
 
 129 
 
 Brown Sauce 130 
 
 Buttered Eggs 26 
 
 Buttered Eggs with Anchovies 27 
 
 Buttered Eggs with Truffles 28 
 
 C 
 
 Caviare Eggs 90 
 
 Chaud-froid of Eggs (cold) ,..,., 93 
 
 Cheese, Creamed ........ 63 
 
 Cheese Eggs 82 
 
 Chestnut Pur^e, Savoury ..,..., 52 
 
 Coddled Eggs 126 
 
 Creamed Eggs with Mushrooms 39 
 
 Curried Eggs 33 
 
 Curried Eggs (another way) ...... 62 
 
 Curry Sauce ......... 130 
 
 O 
 
 Devilled Eggs 84 
 
 Devilled Egg Toast 64 
 
 Digestibility of Eggs, The 14 
 
 Dropped Eggs 62 
 
 E 
 Egg Bouchees ....... .42 
 
 „ Bouillon 124 
 
 „ Cannelons .43 
 
 „ Cofiee 125 
 
 „ Coquilles with Spinach 45 
 
 „ Croquettes 53 
 
 „ Croustades 28 
 
 „ Crofttes with Game 72 
 
 „ Cutlets 43 
 
 „ Cutlets with Spinach 44 
 
 „ Darioles 86 
 
 „ Fillip ......... 126 
 
 „ Flip 127 
 
 „ Fritters It la Magdaltoe 6r 
 
 „ Fritters k la Milanaise 44 
 
 „ Frittere i la Royale 78 
 
 „ Jelly (sweet) 124 
 
 7 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Egg Jumbles 89 
 
 „ Kromeskis ........ 45 
 
 „ Nog (cold) 126 
 
 „ Nog (hot) .126 
 
 „ NouUles 128 
 
 „ and Oyster Boucb6e5 42 
 
 „ Patties 41 
 
 " Pie 66 
 
 „ Ragoflt h la Frao^aise 88 
 
 ,, Ragoftt k la Piiocesse ...... 85 
 
 „ Rarebit 87 
 
 „ Rolls, Fried 53 
 
 „ Salad 94 
 
 „ Salad (hot) 95 
 
 „ Sauce 128 
 
 „ Souffl6 54 
 
 „ Tartlets 89 
 
 „ Tea 125 
 
 „ Timbales with Anchovies ...... 86 
 
 „ Tomato Ramakins .75 
 
 „ Water 127 
 
 „ Wme 125 
 
 Eggs & I'Africaine 46 
 
 „ 4 TAmericaine ........ 46 
 
 „ Baked k la Princesse ...... 52 
 
 „ ea Banquettes ........ 36 
 
 „ 4 la Belloy 36 
 
 „ au Beurre Noir ....... 85 
 
 „ 4 la Boisellier 46 
 
 k la Bombay . 34 
 
 „ k la Boston 88 
 
 „ 4 la Bretonne ........ 47 
 
 „ Buttered 26 
 
 „ Buttered, with Anchovies ...... 27 
 
 „ Buttered, with Truffles 28 
 
 „ k la Capucine 30 
 
 „ i la Chantilly 49 
 
 „ k la Cartoe 38 
 
 „ k la Carnot 70 
 
 „ in Cases 61 
 
 „ Chaud-froid of (cold) 93 
 
 „ Cheese ......... 82 
 
 „ with Cheese 82 
 
 „ with Creamed Cheese 63 
 
 „ k la Chiffonade 76 
 
 „ k la Chimay 50 
 
 „ k la Chipolata 80 
 
 „ en Cocottes 87 
 
 _ Coddled ......... 126 
 
 „ Ilia Colbert 47 
 
 „ 4 la Coque en Surprise 41 
 
 „ a la Coquette 30 
 
 „ k la Cosmopolite 36 
 
 „ 4 la Courtet 30 
 
 „ Creamed, with Mushrooms 39 
 
 „ with Cucumber 38 
 
 „ Curried 33 
 
 „ Curried (another way) 6a 
 
 „ Devilled 84 
 
 „ k la Dreux ■ 55 
 
 „ Dropped 63 
 
 „ k I'Eugtoie .37 
 
 „ 4 la Fermi^re Sr 
 
 „ k la Florentine 37 
 
 „ Freshness of , to test 15 
 
 ,, Fricassee of 35 
 
AND INDEX 9 
 
 PAOX 
 
 Eggs, Fried, k la Ci^cAb 65 
 
 Fried Crofttes of (sweet) 123 
 
 Fried, Curried 63 
 
 Fried k la Fermidre 31 
 
 Fried k la Romaine ■.••... 77 
 
 Fried, with Savoury Rice 51 
 
 on Rice CroQtes 77 
 
 Frosted . . , . , . , , .125 
 
 k la Gagnor , , . . , , , - 3i 
 
 k la Garfield ........ 73 
 
 k la Gourmet ...,.,,. 37 
 
 k la Grand Due ....... 37 
 
 k la Granville ........ 38 
 
 au Gratin 81 
 
 Gruyfire . . , , . . . , .82 
 
 k la Hussard 78 
 
 Ham (cold) 63 
 
 Hard-boiled . 16 
 
 k rindienne ..,..,.. 33 
 
 k ritalienne ........ 74 
 
 k la St. Jacques . . . . . . .56 
 
 Lobster 67 
 
 k la Lucullus 76 
 
 k la Lyonnaise, ....... 83 
 
 k la Madame ........ 88 
 
 k la Maire 79 
 
 k la Marianne ........ 32 
 
 k la Marie ........ 76 
 
 k la Marie Louise 72 
 
 k la Marigny . . 30 
 
 en Matelote ........ 79 
 
 k la M6dicis ........ 57 
 
 with Melted Cheese 82 
 
 k la Messina ........ 73 
 
 k la Meyerbeer. , , , , . . , 7i 
 
 k la Mirelle 71 
 
 k la Mode de Caen ....... 38 
 
 k la Montpensier . 79 
 
 k la Momay 31 
 
 k la Neige . . ..... 79 
 
 k la Nesselrobe 51 
 
 k la Nigoise ........ 72 
 
 k la Norfolk ........ 79 
 
 with Nouilles k la Carola ...... 20 
 
 with Nut Brown Butter 85 
 
 k rOrientale 34. 
 
 k la Pacha 38 
 
 au Paprika ........ 32 
 
 k la Parmentier ....... 48 
 
 in Parsley Sauce ....... 66 
 
 k la Pasqual 32 
 
 k la Piemontaise ....... 74 
 
 sur Plat 62 
 
 Poached ......■.• 16 
 
 Poached k la Garibaldi 17 
 
 Poached k I'Espagnole .17 
 
 Poached, Imperial Style .20 
 
 Poached in Savoury Jelly ..... 22 
 
 Poached in Potatoes . ..... 30 
 
 Poached k la Proven^ale ...... 19 
 
 Poached k la Reine 17 
 
 Poached with Spinach 18 
 
 Poached with Tongue 21 
 
 Poached in White Wine 19 
 
 Poached k la R6moulade 22 
 
 k la Polonaise ........ 74 
 
 & la Poulette 75 
 
 ^' ^ la Princesse 85 
 
10 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 Eggs, in Pug Pastry 
 „ k la Reine 
 „ ik la Reine Itargot 
 „ k la Rialto 
 „ ^ la Richelieu 
 „ ^ la Rossini 
 „ & la Russe 
 „ k la St. Cloud 
 „ k la St. Geimain 
 „ & la Salamandre 
 „ i la Santos (cold) . 
 „ Sandwiches 
 
 Sardine . 
 
 Savoury, and Tomatoes 
 
 Scalloped with Spinach 
 
 Scotch 
 
 Scrambled 
 
 Scrambled with Asparagus Tips 
 
 Scrambled, in Cases . 
 
 Scrambled with Cfipes 
 
 Scrambled with Ham 
 
 Scrambled with Herbs 
 
 Scrambled with Mushrooms 
 
 Scrambled with Peas 
 
 Scrambled with Rice 
 
 Scrambled with Salmoa 
 
 Scrambled with Tomatoes 
 
 Scrambled with Tongue 
 
 in Shells . 
 
 Soft-boiled 
 
 k la Soubisc 
 
 Spanish . 
 
 Shirred . 
 
 with Shrimp Sauce . 
 
 Steamed , 
 
 Steamed k la Bichamel 
 
 Stuffed k I'Aurore (cold) 
 
 Stuffed with Anchovies 
 
 Stufied on Croates . 
 
 Stuffed on Croiltes k la Madras 
 
 Stuffed with Ham (cold) 
 
 Stuffed with Prawns. 
 
 Stuffed with Spinach 
 
 Stuffed Swiss style . 
 
 Stuffed k la Volga (cold) 
 
 k la Tomate 
 
 Tomato . 
 
 and Tomato Custard 
 
 and Tomato Savoury 
 
 k la Tripe 
 
 k la Turque 
 
 k la VUleroi . 
 
 k la Waldimir . 
 
 PACK 
 
 8a 
 77 
 76 
 92 
 39 
 71 
 91 
 39 
 37 
 43 
 40 
 94 
 69 
 87 
 40 
 69 
 23 
 26 
 26 
 25 
 36 
 24 
 24 
 25 
 
 23 
 25 
 25 
 
 2S 
 
 83 
 
 t6 
 84 
 68 
 62 
 21 
 126 
 87 
 92 
 57 
 58 
 59 
 91 
 70 
 57 
 6a 
 59 
 32 
 69 
 64 
 54 
 8r 
 29 
 34 
 81 
 
 F 
 
 Food Value of Eggs ...•.,,, 13 
 
 Freshness of Eggs, To test 15 
 
 Fricassee of Eggs ........ 35 
 
 Fricassee of Eggs (another way) 35 
 
 Fricassee of Eggs with Muslirooms ..... 35 
 
 Frosted Eggs 125 
 
 a 
 
 Giuyire Eggs g2 
 
AND INDEX 
 
 II 
 
 PAGB 
 H 
 
 Ham Eggs 65 
 
 Hard-boCed Eggs 16 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce . . , , , , , ,129 
 
 How to Turn out Omeleti 99 
 
 How to Preserve Eggs 15 
 
 How to Shape an Omelet ....«•, 9S 
 
 L 
 
 Lobster Eggs 67 
 
 M 
 
 Mayonnaise of Eggs ....,.,. go 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce ...,,.., 128 
 
 O 
 
 Omelet, How to Shape an 98 
 
 Omelets, How to Turn Out 99 
 
 P 
 
 Paprika Sauce 127 
 
 Poached Eggs .16 
 
 Pyramids of Eggs k la Reforme 73 
 
 R 
 
 Rules for Making Omelets. , 97 
 
 8 
 
 Salmon Eggs 67 
 
 Salpioon of Eggs 41 
 
 Savoury Egg Cream on Toast ,,,.,. 54 
 
 „ „ Custard 124 
 
 Scalloped Eggs with Spinach 40 
 
 Scotch Eggs i . , 6g 
 
 Scrambled Eggs 23 
 
 Shirred Eggs 62 
 
 Snow Eggs 123 
 
 Soow Eggs au Citron 123 
 
 Soft-boiled Eggs 16 
 
 Spanish Eggs . . . 68 
 
 Steamed Eggs . . . . f . . . . 126 
 
 Steamed Eggs k la B6chamel 87 
 
 Supreme Sauce .131 
 
 Sweet Omelets, Notes on 116 
 
 T 
 
 Tc»nato Eggs . 69 
 
 Tomato Sauce 130 
 
 OMELETS 
 
 American Omeleti 
 
 Amourettes 
 
 Anchovy 
 
 Asparagus 
 
 Bayonne 
 
 BSamaise 
 
 Berooise 
 
 Bonne Femme 
 
 Brain 
 
 BruzeUoise 
 
 Chareotidn 
 
 ZI3 
 
 112 
 log 
 106 
 108 
 107 
 
 lOI 
 
 100 
 108 
 Z12 
 10 z 
 
12 CONTENTS AND INDEX 
 
 PAGB 
 
 Chasseur Omelets 102 
 
 Ch&telaine „ ziz 
 
 Cheese „ ....... 106 
 
 Clamart , ....... 102 
 
 Cucumber „ ....... 109 
 
 Curry „ 109 
 
 English „ ....... 99 
 
 Fish Puff „ 115 
 
 Friar's „ ....... 121 
 
 Frosted „ ....... 121 
 
 Ginger „ 117 
 
 Ham „ , . , . . , .III 
 
 How to Shape „ 98 
 
 Itahenne „ , . , . , , .112 
 
 am „ 117 
 
 _ardim6re „ 113 
 
 With jelly „ 118 
 
 Kidney „ , . , . . , . ri6 
 
 Kirsch „ ....... 116 
 
 Leek „ 103 
 
 Lentil „ ....... 104 
 
 Lobster „ . , . . , , .no 
 
 Madras „ 112 
 
 Mar6chale „ ....... 103 
 
 Marmalade „ , . , . . , . nS 
 
 Milanaise „ 108 
 
 Mousseline „ . . , . , , . 1 19 
 
 Mushroom „ ....... 105 
 
 Maintenon „ ....... 107 
 
 Notes on Sweet „ 116 
 
 Onion „ . , . . . , . 1 10 
 
 Orange Puff „ , , . , . ', ! 121 
 
 Oyster „ no 
 
 Parisienne „ , , , , , . .113 
 
 Pannentier „ -....!! 1 13 
 
 Parmesan „ [ 104 
 
 i; 
 
 Peach 
 
 119 
 
 Paysaime „ ii3 
 
 PMgord „ 113 
 
 Plain „ go 
 
 Portugaise „ 114 
 
 Princesse „ • uj 
 
 Puffed or Sonfflfe,, 114 
 
 Raphael „ ....... loa 
 
 R6forme „ ....,!' 114 
 
 Reine (Queen) „ ! . iii 
 
 Robespierre „ 118 
 
 Robert „ ' ] jj. 
 
 Rules for Making,, 07 
 
 R"™ : 116 
 
 Salmon „ . . . , . ^ .no 
 
 Sardine „ ...!!** loo 
 
 Savoury ...!!'.' 100 
 
 Shallot Flavour „ ... oo 
 
 Soufflte „ ....!'' iio 
 
 Spinach „ ...!!!' 100 
 
 1^"^?° "" 
 
 OWCCL ^ ^ tt7 
 
 j^-p^to ; : : : io5 
 
 To turn out an „ . . . . -„ 
 
 Tfuffle .: ...:::: r^l 
 
 Vienna . „, 
 
Food Value of Eggs. 
 
 The average weight of a hen's egg is 
 about two ounces avoirdupois. 
 
 The composition of the white of an 
 ordinary hen's egg is : — 
 
 Nitrogenous matter 20.4 
 
 Fatty matter 10.0 
 
 Mineral matter 1.6 
 
 Water 68.0 
 
 Composition of the yolk : — 
 
 Nitrogenous matter 16.0 
 
 Fatty matter 30.7 
 
 Mineral matter 1.3 
 
 Water 52.0 
 
 It will thus be seen that eggs are almost 
 a complete food, being particularly rich 
 in nitrogenous elements. 
 
 Dr. Parrott, in writing on the chemistry 
 and dietetic value of eggs, states that, as 
 compared with other articles of food, eggs 
 contain on an average 4 per cent, less pro- 
 tein and 6 per cent, less fat than sirloin 
 steak, half as much protein and one-third 
 as much fat as cream cheese, and twice as 
 much protein, with ten times as much fat, 
 as oysters. Their fuel value is about two- 
 thirds that of beef, and but one-third that 
 of good cheese. Compared with wheat 
 flour, eggs contain an equal amount of pro- 
 tein, ten times as much fat, but less than 
 half as much fuel value. Eggs contain 
 13 
 
14 HOW TO COOK 
 
 practically no carbohydrates, while wheat 
 flour contains 75 per cent. 
 
 Chemically speaking, therefore, eggs are 
 rich in building and repair material, but do 
 not furnish a proportionate percentage of 
 energy. This is why it is now admitted 
 that eggs do not furnish perfect nutrition 
 for the adult body. It must, however, be 
 remembered that Nature endows the diges- 
 tive organs with a considerable degree of 
 vital discretion, or power of transforma- 
 tion ; so that both proteids and carbohy- 
 drates are to a certain extent commuted 
 into energy, and vice versa. The white 
 of egg is comparatively free from fat ; 
 fat, however, is found in the yolk. 
 
 The egg is a concentrated economic form 
 of wholesome human food, which supplies 
 at times a desirable substitute for flesh 
 food. The cost of eggs compares most 
 favourably with other food products, being 
 about 25 per cent, per pound cheaper than 
 rump steak ; whilst their food value ranks 
 as high, if not higher than meat. 
 
 The Digestibility of Eggs. 
 
 The digestibility of eggs is about the 
 same whether raw, lightly cooked, or 
 thoroughly cooked. The time required to 
 digest a cooked egg varies from 3-4 hours. 
 This will seem incredible to those who have 
 always been accustomed to insisting upon 
 their eggs being "soft-boiled," or lightly 
 cooked. - Digestibility, says Dr. Parrott, 
 however, does not imply so much the 
 rapidity with which food leaves the stomach 
 as the completeness of its absorbability 
 and appropriation by the system. Ex- 
 periments in this have demonstrated 
 that a healthy stomach digests a hard- 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 15 
 
 boiled egg quite as thoroughly as a soft- 
 boiled one ; but this does not prove that 
 the process is as qiiickly accomphshed 
 or that the hard-boiled egg does not com- 
 pel a somewhat greater effort on the part 
 of the digestive organs. With healthy 
 persons the degree of cooking may there- 
 fore be made wholly a matter of taste. 
 Any process of cooking will harden the 
 albumen of the egg. 
 
 To Test the Freshness of 
 Eggs. 
 
 There is but one opinion as to this, eggs 
 should be perfectly fresh, else they are not 
 worth using at all. 
 
 The easiest way to ascertain the fresh- 
 ness of eggs is to hold the egg between the 
 thumb and forefinger, before a strong Ught. 
 If fresh it will be transparent at the centre, 
 and the outline of the yolk should be 
 plainly seen ; when stale, it will appear 
 cloudy and dark. Another way to test 
 eggs is to make a solution of one part of 
 salt and two of water. Good eggs will 
 sink to the bottom, whilst stale ones will 
 float. 
 
 How to Preserve Eggs. 
 
 There are several methods of preserving 
 eggs, and of these salt and lime has proved 
 the most reUable. Put into a pan | lb. of 
 salt and lime the size of an egg; boil a 
 gallon of water and pour over hot. When 
 cold strain it over the eggs to be preserved. 
 The best time to preserve eggs is in April 
 and August. Eggs thus preserved will keep 
 good for several months. 
 
HOW TO COOK EGGS. 
 
 Soft-boiled Eggs. 
 
 Place the eggs, which should be new laid, 
 into water, which should be just below 
 boiling point (about 165 deg. Fahrenheit). 
 Keep the water at this temperature and 
 allow the eggs to remain in it for 10 min- 
 utes. If so treated, eggs will be of a soft 
 and jelly-like consistency. When required 
 rather more cooked, allow 20 minutes, 
 but do not let the water get to the boiling 
 point, or if required in a hurry boil the eggs 
 for three 'minutes and serve. 
 
 Hard-boiled Eggs. 
 
 Put the eggs in cold water and bring to 
 the boil, allow to cook fast for 10 minutes, 
 and place them into cold water to cool, and 
 remove the shells carefully. 
 
 Poached Eggs. 
 
 {CEufs pochis.) 
 Use a shallow pan, and half fill it with 
 water, add salt to taste, and the juice of 
 half a lemon or a table-spoonful of vinegar ; 
 when boiling, break each egg carefully into 
 a cup and slip gently into the boiling 
 water. Allow to simmer till the white of 
 the egg and the yolk are set ; then take 
 up each carefully with a skimmer or slice, 
 drain and trim the edges and serve on 
 16 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 17 
 
 plain or buttered toast, cut to the desired 
 shape. Dish up and garnish with crisp 
 parsley. 
 
 Poached Eggs k I'Espagnole. 
 
 Cook four ounces of washed and drained 
 rice in half a pint of stock, add to it one 
 ounce of fresh butter, and season to taste. 
 Arrange a neatly shaped bed of the rice 
 (which should be almost dry when cooked) 
 on a hot dish, and upon it place five or 
 six neatly trimmed poached eggs. Pour 
 a little hot tomato sauce round the base 
 of the dish and serve. 
 
 Poached Eggs a la Garibaldi. 
 
 Poach carefully six to eight new-laid 
 eggs ; drain them well, and stamp out 
 each with a round cutter. Reduce half 
 a pint of rich bechamel, into which in- 
 corporate a table-spoonful of grated Par- 
 mesan cheese and three yolks of eggs. 
 Mask each egg with this sauce. When 
 set and cold, egg and crumb them twice. 
 Fry them in deep fat, drain, and dish up 
 on a hot dish covered with a lace paper 
 or napkin. Garnish with fried parsley, 
 and serve with a boat of tomato sauce. 
 
 Poached Eggs a la Reine. 
 
 Mince rather finely half a pound or 
 more of cold cooked chicken or turkey, 
 freed from skin, bone, and gristle. Fry 
 this in a little butter, and moisten with 
 sufficient bechamel sauce to form a light 
 salpicon. Keep hot. Poach in slightly 
 salted water six new-laid eggs ; trim them 
 neatly. Put the mince in a round dish, 
 
 B 
 
18 HOW TO COOK 
 
 and place the eggs neatly upon top. Glaze 
 them with liquefied meat glaze, or Lemco, 
 and surround the dish with eight small 
 halfmoon-shaped slices of bread fried in 
 clarified butter. Garnish with sprigs of 
 parsley, and serve hot. 
 
 Poached Eggs with Spinach. 
 
 (CEufs pochSs aux Epinards.) 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Six fresh eggs, a teaspoonful of lemon 
 juice or white vinegar, one and a half 
 pounds of spinach, one and a-half ounces 
 of butter, one table-spoonful of rich brown 
 sauce, salt, pepper, nutmeg, two slices of 
 toasted bread. 
 
 Pick and wash the spinach, put it in a 
 copper stew-pan with very little water and 
 cook for half an hour. Put it in a colander 
 and drain well, squeezing out all the 
 water. Rub the spinach through a sieve. 
 Melt the butter in a stew-pan, put in the 
 spinach puree, season with pepper, salt, 
 and a pinch of grated nutmeg ; moisten 
 with the sauce and cook gently for twenty- 
 five minutes or so. Have ready a shallow 
 stew-pan with boiling water, slightly salted ; 
 add the vinegar or lemon juice. Break 
 each egg carefuUy into a cup and gently 
 slide into the boiling water (great care 
 must be taken so that they do not scat- 
 ter). Allow the eggs to cook until per- 
 fectly set, but without allowing the yolks 
 to get hard. Have the spinach dressed 
 neatly on a hot dish ; take up each egg 
 by means of a slice or small skimmer ; 
 trim each a little and place on the spinach. 
 Pour a little demi-glace sauce or gravy 
 round the dish ; garnish with sippets of 
 toasted bread and serve immediately. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 19 
 
 Poached Eggs a la Provenqiale. 
 
 {(Eufs pochis a la Provengale.) 
 Peel and slice three small onions, fry 
 them to a nice light brown colour in an 
 ounce of butter, drain off the butter and 
 add a sliced and peeled ripe tomato, six 
 chopped mushrooms, and a teaspoonful 
 of chopped parsley ; moisten with a little 
 brown sauce, and keep simmering for a 
 few minutes. Season with salt and pepper 
 and keep hot. 
 
 Poach carefully six to eight fresh eggs, 
 as directed on p. 16. Prepare six to eight 
 rounds of toasted or fried bread, about 
 the size of the eggs ; butter them and 
 spread them thickly with the onion purie ; 
 place a poached egg on each round of 
 bread. Dish up, pour a little hot brown 
 sauce over the eggs, and serve hot. 
 
 Poached Eggs in White Wine. 
 
 {CEufs pochis au tin blanc.) 
 Poach carefuUy six to eight eggs in 
 slightly salted water, flavoured with white 
 wine (Chablis or Sauterne) and a few 
 drops of lemon juice. Have ready as 
 many fried bread croutons as there are 
 poached eggs. Take up the eggs, trim 
 them neatly, and place them on the 
 croutons, then dish up. Have ready a 
 sauce prepared with one gill of reduced 
 white wine, an ounce and a half of meat 
 glaze, and one ounce of butter ; the latter 
 must be whisked in in very small quan- 
 tities, and must not boil. Season with 
 a good pinch of cayenne or Krona pepper. 
 Mask the eggs with the sauce, which 
 must be thick enough to coat them nicely, 
 sprinkle a little chopped parsley over each 
 egg, and serve. 
 
20 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Eggs with Nouilles a la 
 Carola. 
 
 Prepare some nouille paste (p. 128), 
 cut it into very thin strips, and blanch in 
 salted water for three minutes ; drain and 
 toss in butter. Season with nutmeg and 
 pepper, and put some on a buttered fire- 
 proof dish. Upon this range a layer of 
 slices of hard-boiled eggs, then a layer of 
 nouUles, and lastly a layer of fresh mush- 
 rooms, seasoned and tossed in butter. 
 Dredge well with grated cheese. Cover with 
 a well-reduced bechamel sauce. Sprinkle 
 over some grated cheese and a little oiled 
 butter. Bake in a sharp oven for ten 
 minutes. 
 
 Poached Eggs, Imperial style. 
 
 {CEufs poches a VImperiale.) 
 Poach six to eight fresh eggs, and trim 
 them neatly. Drain them on a sieve and 
 let cool. Fill as many preserved artichoke 
 bottoms, slightly hollowed out, with some 
 reduced and seasoned tomato pulp. Upon 
 this place slices of ripe vegetables. Coat 
 the eggs with prepared remoulade sauce, 
 and dress them upon the tomato slices. 
 Sprinkle over some finely-cut strips of 
 tongue and chopped parsley. Dish up, 
 garnish with crisp parsley, and serve. 
 
 Poached Eggs in Potatoes. 
 
 [CEufs pochis a la Suzette.) 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Four large oval even-sized potatoes, half a 
 gill of well-reduced bechamel sauce (p. 
 129), one ounce grated Parmesan cheese, 
 half an ounce of Gorgona cheese (grated), 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 21 
 
 eight small poached eggs, a table-spoonful 
 of " Panurette " or brown bread crumbs 
 seasoning. 
 
 Wash and scrub the potatoes, and bake 
 them in a fairly sharp oven till tender. 
 Cut them in halves lengthways with a 
 sharp knife, and scoop out the soft part by 
 means of a dessert-spoon. Incorporate the 
 grated Parmesan cheese into the bechamel 
 sauce. Rub half of the potato puree 
 obtained through a sieve and mix with a 
 little bechamel sauce, etc. ; season with salt 
 and pepper, and line the shells of potatoes 
 with this ; then put in a layer of sauce, and 
 upon this place a neatly-trimmed poached 
 egg. Sauce over carefully with more be- 
 chamel, sprinkle freely with grated Gruy^re 
 cheese, a pinch or two of Paprika pepper, 
 and some fried breadcrumbs. Place them 
 on a buttered baking tin or saute-pan and 
 brown in a hot oven or under the salaman- 
 der. Dish up on a hot dish, covered with 
 a folded "napkin, and serve at once. 
 
 Poached Eggs with Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 {(Eufs pochis sauce crevettes.) 
 Poach the required number of eggs, trim 
 them or stamp out, and place each on a 
 round of toasted buttered bread. Dish up 
 neatly on a hot dish, and pour over each a 
 hot rich white sauce mixed with sufficient 
 shrimp paste to taste, and a few drops of 
 anchovy essence. 
 
 Poached Eggs wi± Tongue. 
 
 {(Eufs pochis a VEcarlate.) 
 Take six new-laid eggs, six slices of 
 cooked ox-tongue, one gill gravy or rich 
 brown stock, one small glass of sherry or 
 
22 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Marsala, salt, pepper, lemon juice, one and 
 a half giUs of rich bechamel sauce (p. 129). 
 Poach the eggs in boiling water, slightly 
 salted and flavoured with lemon juice. Cut 
 the slices of tongue into neat shapes, about 
 the size of the egg, when poached. Chop 
 the trimmings of tongue very finely. Put 
 the slices of tongue in a saute-pan with the 
 gravy and wine, and heat up thoroughly. 
 Take up the eggs, drain and trim them ; 
 place each upon a slice of tongue and 
 arrange on a hot dish ; season with salt 
 and pepper, sauce over carefully with hot 
 white or brown sauce. Put a little chopped 
 tongue in the centre of each egg, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 Poached Eggs a la Remoulade. 
 
 Poach six or seven small eggs, dress 
 them on artichoke bottoms ; garnish with 
 vegetable macedoine and julienne strips 
 of tongue and tomatoes ; sauce over with 
 cold remoulade sauce or mayonnaise mixed 
 with chopped gherkins, capers, and tomato 
 pulp. Serve cold. 
 
 Poached Eggs in Savoury 
 JeUy. 
 
 {(Eufs pocMs en aspic.) 
 Poach the required number of new-laid 
 eggs in salted water containing a little 
 lemon juice or vinegar. Stamp out each 
 egg neatly and let cool on a cloth or a 
 sieve. Mask the inside of a number of 
 china or silver-plated cocotte or ramakin 
 cases with clear aspic jelly, and place 
 one egg in each ; mask or coat the surface 
 with aspic, then decorate the top neatly 
 with thinly-cut slices of truffle and chervil 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 23 
 
 leaves. When the decoration is set, pour 
 over a layer of aspic. Place the filled 
 cases on the ice till required, then dish up 
 and serve. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs. 
 
 (CEufs brouillSs.) 
 Beat up four or five fresh eggs, add a 
 table-spoonful of milk or cream and a 
 table-spoonful of rich gravy, pour this into 
 a saucepan, add an ounce of fresh butter, 
 and stir over the fire until the eggs begin 
 to set. Have ready two slices of toasted 
 and buttered bread, place them in a hot 
 dish, and pour the egg mixture upon them. 
 Serve hot. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs (another way). 
 
 (CEufs brouillSs.) 
 Beat up four fresh eggs and add to 
 them two table-spoonfuls of cream and 
 two table-spoonfuls of stock, season to 
 taste with salt, pepper and a grate of nut- 
 meg. Pour this into an dhamelled sauce- 
 pan or fireproof earthenware pan, add 
 half an ounce of fresh butter and stir ovei 
 a moderate fire till the eggs just begin to 
 set and are of a cream-like appearance. 
 Have ready some squares of toasted and 
 buttered bread, pour over the eggs, and 
 serve hot. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Rice. 
 
 (CEufs brouillSs au riz.) 
 Fry three table-spoonfuls of cooked rice 
 in an ounce of butter, add to it four well- 
 beaten eggs and a table-spoonful of cream, 
 season to taste, and stir in a stew-pan 
 over the fire till the eggs thicken. 
 
24 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Dish up on rounds of buttered toast, 
 pour a little brown or tomato sauce round 
 the base of the dish, and serve. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Herbs. 
 
 {OEufs brouilUs aux fines herhes.) 
 
 Add to four beaten eggs and one table- 
 spoonful of cream one dessert-spoonful of 
 finely chopped parsley, chervil, and chives, 
 also three to four chopped preserved mush- 
 rooms, season with salt and pepper, cook 
 and serve as directed for scrambled eggs. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 {CEufs brouillis aux champignons.) 
 
 Glet ready the following ingredients : — 
 Five eggs, two ounces fresh butter, six 
 to eight preserved mushrooms, a table- 
 spoonful of cream, salt and pepper, two 
 rounds of toasted bread. 
 
 Break the eggs into a basin, season 
 with pepper and salt, beat up well and 
 add the cream, and the mushrooms (chopped 
 finely), melt the butter in a stew-pan, 
 pour in the mixture of eggs, cream, etc., 
 and stir over the fire till the eggs begin 
 to set. Have ready the toasted bread, 
 weU buttered, on a hot dish, pour the 
 prepared eggs over the toast and serve 
 hot. Great care must be exercised not to 
 over-cook nor under-cook the mixture, 
 otherwise the dish will be spoilt. A few 
 thin sUces of streaky bacon, nicely fried, 
 served round this dish will be found a 
 great improvement. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 25 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Salmon. 
 
 {OEufs brouillis au Saumon.) 
 
 Remove the skin and bones from about 
 four ounces of cooked salmon and flake 
 finely ; fry this in an ounce of butter, and 
 pour in four weU-beaten and seasoned 
 eggs ; stir the whole over the fire till the 
 eggs thicken or begin to set, then dish 
 up and place six thinly-cut slices of frizzled 
 bacon on top. Serve hot. 
 
 Note. — In place of salmon, any other 
 kind of cooked fish may be used ; smoked 
 haddock is particularly nice done this way. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Cepes. 
 
 {GEufs brouillis aux cepes.) 
 Proceed the same as directed for scram- 
 bled eggs, adding six to eight preserved 
 cdpes (a species of mushrooms), finely 
 chopped, before scrambling the eggs. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Tomato. 
 
 {CEufs hrouilUs aux tomaies.) 
 Toss in butter two small, ripe, peeled 
 and sliced tomatoes, then pour in the 
 seasoned egg mixture and proceed the 
 same as directed for scrambled eggs. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Peas. 
 
 {CEufs brouilles aux petits pais.) 
 Adopt one of the formulae for scrambled 
 eggs, and when the eggs begin to set add 
 half a giU of cooked green peas, well drained 
 and tossed in a little fresh butter, and 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and a pinch 
 of sugar. Mix well and serve on rounds 
 of buttered toast. 
 
26 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with 
 Asparagus Tips. 
 
 {CEufs hrouilUs aux pointes d'asperges.) 
 Proceed the same as explained in the 
 
 foregoing recipe, but use cooked asparagus 
 
 tips in place of green peas. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Ham. 
 
 {CEufs hrouilUs au jambon.) 
 Fry in an ounce of butter two ounces 
 of chopped lean ham (cooked or raw), 
 pour in the egg mixture (same as for 
 scrambled eggs), stir over the fire till just 
 setting, then dish up on croutons of bread, 
 fried or toasted, garnish with sprigs of 
 parsley, and serve. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs with Tongue. 
 
 {CEufs hrouilUs d VEcarlate.) 
 Proceed the same as directed in the pre- 
 ceding recipe, but substitute for the ham 
 cooked ox-tongue, which must be fried 
 very lightly. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs in Cases. 
 
 {CEufs hrouilUs en caisses.) 
 Scramble four eggs the same as directed 
 for scrambled eggs with herbs (see p. 24). 
 Fill the cooked mixture into small china 
 or paper ramakin cases (buttered), insert a 
 tiny sprig of parsley on top of each, dish 
 up and serve. 
 
 Buttered Eggs. 
 
 Break four fresh eggs into a basin, add 
 sufficient salt and pepper to taste, beat 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 27 
 
 up with a fork, so as to thoroughly mix 
 the whites with the yolks, put one and 
 a half ounces of butter into a small stew- 
 pan, add the eggs and a table-spoonful 
 of milk, stir over the fire until the mix- 
 ture begins to thicken and is hot through 
 (it must not on any account be allowed to 
 boil). Have ready a slice of hot buttered 
 toast, put this on a hot dish or plate 
 Put the egg mixture on to this, garnish 
 with a few sprigs of parsley, or sprinkle 
 over with chopped parsley, and serve 
 quickly. 
 
 Buttered Eggs with Anchovies. 
 
 {CEufs hrouilUs aux anchois.) 
 
 Take six eggs, one teaspoonful anchovy 
 essence, one and a halt ounces butter, 
 two table-spoonfuls cream, six Gtorgona 
 anchovies, a pinch of cayenne pepper and 
 salt, toasted slices of bread. 
 
 Wipe the anchovies with a damp cloth, 
 remove the fillets, and cut into strips. 
 Cut the toast in oblong slices about three 
 inches long and two inches broad, and 
 butter them. Beat up the eggs ; put them, 
 together with the anchovy essence, ail 
 ounce of butter, and the cream, in a small 
 stew-pan ; add a pinch of cayenne, and 
 salt to taste. Stir over the fire until the 
 mixture begins to set ; put an equal 
 quantity on the buttered side of each piece 
 of toast, and lay the strips of anchovies 
 across each in the shape of lattice-work. 
 Place a caper in each cavity, dish up, put 
 the dish in the oven for a few minutes, 
 garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve 
 hot. 
 
28 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Buttered Eggs with Truffles. 
 
 {CEufs brouilUs aux Truffes.) 
 Get ready the following : — Six eggs, 
 one and a half ounces butter, one large 
 truffle, half a glass Marsala, salt, pepper, 
 nutmeg, and a small slice of toasted bread. 
 Cut the truffle into fine shreds ; put in 
 a stew-pan with the wine and a tiny piece 
 of butter ; cover and reduce the liquid to 
 about half its quantity. Break the eggs 
 into a basin ; season with salt, pepper, 
 and a pinch of grated nutmeg ; mix thor- 
 oughly. Melt the butter in a stew-pan, 
 pour in the eggs, stir over the fire until 
 the mixture begins to set ; then add the 
 truffle, etc., quickly. Mix well together ; 
 stir over the fire for another minute ; 
 then turn on a hot dish on a slice of but- 
 tered toast ; dress in a heap, garnish with 
 u few sippets of toast, and serve. 
 
 Almond Eggs, Moulded. 
 
 Butter six to eight small bouche or cup 
 moulds and scatter the bottom with shreds of 
 almonds, previously peeled and baked to a 
 fawn colour. Break a fresh egg into each, 
 season with salt, pepper, and a tiny grate 
 of nutmeg, and sprinkle over each some 
 chopped baked almonds. Bake in the 
 oven till just set, then turn out on small 
 round croutons of fried bread, and dish up. 
 Pour a nicely seasoned tomato or demi- 
 glace or Mad^re sauce round the base of 
 the dish and serve. 
 
 Egg Croustades. 
 
 Prepare a salpicon of eggs as described 
 on p. 41, and fill with it some small 
 croustade cases made of rice, potato. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 29 
 
 semolina or bread ; when filled place them 
 in a hot oven for a few minutes, then dish 
 up, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. 
 
 Egg Pie. 
 
 Peel five to six hard-boiled eggs and cut 
 them into slices. Melt an ounce of butter 
 in a stew-pan, stir in a table-spoonful of 
 fiour, and cook a little ; moisten with 
 one and a half gills of milk, and let boil 
 for five minutes, stirring all the time. Stir 
 in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, season 
 to taste with salt and pepper, and keep hot. 
 Fill a buttered pie-dish with alternate 
 layers of slices of eggs, sauce, and bread- 
 crumbs, and when full pour over enough 
 white sauce to cover. Sprinkle over with 
 breadcrumbs, place a few tiny bits of 
 butter on top, and bake for fifteen minutes 
 in a moderately heated oven. Serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Turque. 
 
 Break six to eight eggs into a basin, 
 season with pepper and salt and a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley. Whisk them 
 well and stir into a stew-pan containing 
 an ounce of melted butter ; stir over the 
 fire till the eggs are set enough to be turned 
 out, then dress them in the form of a 
 border on a hot round dish. Have ready 
 a saute of chicken livers (finely sliced 
 and tossed in butter, flavoured with shal- 
 lot and parsley, and suitably seasoned) ; 
 put these in the centre of the dish, pour 
 some hot tomato sauce (p. 130) round 
 the base of the dish, and send to table 
 immediately. 
 
30 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Eggs a la Coquette. 
 
 Take six to eight new-laid eggs, one 
 ounce butter, about half a gill cream, three 
 ounces lean ham or tongue, salt, cayenne, 
 and nutmeg. ' 
 
 Procure six to eight small china souffle 
 cases ; butter them well ; put a small 
 piece of butter in each of them, also a 
 table-spoonful of cream, a pinch of salt, 
 and a little grated nutmeg ; place them on 
 a baking-sheet in a hot oven or on the top 
 of the stove. When the contents com- 
 mence to simmer break carefully into each 
 one egg ; put a tiny pinch of cayenne 
 pepper in the centre of each yolk ; put 
 back on the stove or in the oven, and allow 
 the eggs to set lightly. Have ready the 
 ham or tongue finely chopped, sprinkle 
 over the white part, so as to leave the 
 yolks free ; serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Marigny. 
 
 Scald and peel four to six ripe tomatoes, 
 cut them into slices, and toss them in an 
 ounce of butter in a saute-pan over a 
 moderate fire. Season to taste with salt 
 and pepper, cover, and let stew gently for 
 about twenty minutes. Put the prepared 
 tomatoes in an oblong dish, and carefully 
 break on top four fresh eggs ; place the 
 dish carefully in a hot oven long enough 
 to set the eggs, then sauce over the white 
 part of the eggs with a well-fiavoured 
 lobster sauce. Put a tiny pinch of Paprika 
 in the centre of each egg yolk, and send 
 to table at once. 
 
 Eggs a la Courtet (Cold). 
 
 Cut some even-sized ripe tomatoes in 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 31 
 
 halves, scoop out the interior carefully, 
 and fill with scrambled egg, nicely sea- 
 soned. When cold, mask carefully with a 
 stiff mayonnaise and a thin layer of aspic 
 jelly. Dish up in a circle and garnish with 
 shoes of gherkins and pickled beetroot cut 
 into fanciful shapes ; fill the centre of the 
 dish with lettuce and tomatoes cut into 
 juUenne strips, suitably seasoned with an 
 oil and vinegar or mayonnaise dressing. 
 Serve cold. 
 
 Eggs a la Gagnor (Cold). 
 
 Shell five hard-boiled eggs, cut them 
 in halves crossways, cut a small piece off 
 the end of each to make them stand, re- 
 move the yolk and fill the cavities with 
 Russian caviare. Pound the yolks and 
 mix with an ounce of fresh butter, a pinch 
 of cayenne or Paprika pepper, rub it 
 through a sieve, and put it in a forcing 
 bag with a fancy tube. Decorate each 
 half of egg tastefully with the butter, etc., 
 place them on small croutons of fried 
 bread, fixed on with a little of the puree. 
 Dish up, and garnish with fancifully cut 
 slices of lemon and parsley. 
 
 Eggs a la Momay. 
 
 Butter a fireproof or gratin dish, and place 
 in it six hard-boiled eggs, cut into thick 
 slices. Season with salt, pepper and a grate 
 of nutmeg. Mix a gill of bechamel sauce 
 with an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, 
 pour this over the eggs, and besprinkle the 
 top with grated cheese. Place here and 
 there small bits of fresh butter, using 
 about a pat for this. Put the dish in a 
 very hot oven to brown the top, which 
 
32 HOW TO COOK 
 
 should be of a pale brown colour when 
 done. Send the dish to table, and serve 
 very iiot. 
 
 Eggs a la Tomate. 
 
 Proceed as directed in the preceding 
 recipe, using slices of hard-boiled eggs 
 and slices of peeled tomatoes. Season to 
 taste and pour over half a giU of rich 
 tomato sauce. Besprinkle with grated 
 cheese and oiled butter, then bake in a 
 sharp oven, to brown the top, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Pasqual. 
 
 Poach six small eggs in seasoned milkt 
 trim, drain and mask them when cold 
 with white chaud-froid sauce ; dress them 
 in a nest made of baked nouUles, and 
 serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Marianne. 
 
 Prepare a puree of green peas, to which 
 add a Uttle cream and the needful season- 
 ing ; with this puree make a neat border 
 on a well-buttered " gratin dish," put one or 
 two table-spoonfuls of cream in the dish, and 
 upon this break carefuUy four or five fresh 
 eggs. Season to taste with salt and pepper, 
 and cook in the oven just long enough to 
 set the eggs, then serve at once. 
 
 Eggs au Paprika. 
 
 Mix a pound of hot mashed potatoes with 
 two yolks of eggs and one ounce of butter, 
 season with salt and pepper, then put the 
 mixture into a forcing bag and shape a 
 number of rounds with border the size of 
 a large dariole mould. Bake in a fairly 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 33 
 
 hot oven. Butter the required number of 
 plain dariole moulds, besprinkle the inside 
 of each with finely chopped chives or 
 parsley, then break an egg in each, and put 
 a tiny piece of butter or a teaspoonful of 
 cream on top of each egg. Poach the 
 darioles carefully in the oven for about ten 
 minutes, then unmould the shapes and put 
 each on the prepared baked potato border. 
 Place them on a hot dish, put a little finely 
 grated horse-radish on top of each, pour 
 over some hot Paprika sauce, and send to 
 table immediately. 
 
 Eggs a rindienne. 
 
 Prepare an onion puree, same as directed 
 for Eggs k la Soubise (see p. 84). Add 
 to it a level dessert-spoonful of curry 
 powder mixed with a little cream, and let 
 the sauce simmer gently for another ten 
 minutes. Poach in seasoned milk six 
 fresh eggs, drain and trim them neatly ; 
 put the onion puree in a dish and range 
 the eggs on top ; garnish with sippets of 
 toasted or fried bread, and serve with a 
 small dish of plainly cooked rice. 
 
 Curried Eggs. 
 
 Boil four eggs till hard, remove the shells, 
 cut two into eight parts, and chop up the 
 others not too finely. Fry half a small 
 onion in an ounce of butter to a golden 
 brown, add one dessert-spoonful of curry 
 powder, and moisten with half a pint of 
 rich stock ; add also half a minced apple 
 (small), or a few chopped green goose- 
 berries. Cook for twenty minutes, and 
 strain, then put in the chopped eggs. Sea- 
 son to taste, and heat up thoroughly. 
 
 c 
 
34 HOW TO VUUis. 
 
 Place a border of cooked rice on a round 
 dish, put the curry in the centre, and 
 arrange the remaining two hard-boiled 
 ^ggs, cut in sections, round it. Serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Bombay. 
 
 Cook the required number of new-laid 
 eggs till soft (not hard), and shell them 
 carefully. Put in a dish a bed of savoury 
 rice, flavoured with a little curry paste or 
 powder. Upon this place the eggs, pour 
 over some hot curry sauce, and serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a rOrientale (Cold). 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs, fry half a 
 small onion, minced finely, in half an ounce 
 of butter, then add to it a dessert-spoonful 
 of curry powder and a gUl of stock, and 
 let all simmer for fifteen minutes. Add 
 a dessert-spoonful of Bengal Club or other 
 good chutney, mix it well, and rub through 
 a sieve. Cut the eggs in halves and take out 
 the yolks ; cut off a little of the bottom of 
 each part of the whites to make them 
 stand. Put the yolks into the mortar with 
 the curry puree, pound and mix thoroughly. 
 When mixed fill up the whites of the eggs 
 with it, piled up high, and insert a tiny 
 sprig of watercress in each. Dish them up 
 on a bed of nicely seasoned small salad, 
 and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Villeroi. 
 
 Poach six to eight small eggs in sea- 
 soned stock or milk ; take up, drain, and 
 trim neatly, then put them on a wire tray 
 and coat them well with thick HoUandaise 
 sauce ; dip in breadcrumbs and let set. 
 Next egg and crumb them and fry in hot 
 fat. Dish up and serve with tomato sauce. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 35 
 
 Fricassee of Eggs. 
 
 {Fricassee d'oeufs.) 
 
 This dish can be made in three ways — 
 by steaming the yolks and whites of eggs 
 separately and cutting them out into cubes, 
 dice, or other shapes ; by slicing three 
 or four hard-boiled eggs ; or by poaching 
 small eggs in stock or seasoned milk. In 
 each case the eggs must be heated up in 
 a rich white sauce and allowed to simmer 
 for a short time. Season with salt, pepper, 
 and very little nutmeg. Use bechamel, 
 supreme, or veloute sauce for this purpose. 
 
 Fricassee of Eggs (another way). 
 
 BoU six eggs for twelve minutes, lay 
 them in cold water, take off the shells, cut 
 them in halves crosswise, take out the 
 yolks for garnish. Peel a shallot and chop 
 finely. Melt an ounce of butter in a stew- 
 pan, add the shallot, and fry a golden 
 colour. Add half a gill of bechamel sauce, 
 let it come to a boil, mix in one gill of 
 cream ; when hot put in the whites of eggs, 
 and season to taste. Stir gently, or 
 better, shake the pan so as not to break 
 the slices, and keep on the fire until hot. 
 Warm up the yollK in a little thin white 
 sauce, dress them in the centre of a dish, 
 put the whites neatly round the yolks, 
 sprinkle over with chopped parsley, and 
 garnish with a few croutons of fried bread. 
 
 Fricassee of Eggs with 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 Remove the stems from six fresh cup 
 mushrooms, peel and wa^sh the latter, 
 then drain them, and cut them into dice- 
 
36 HOW TO COOK 
 
 shaped pieces. Next toss them, i.e. fry 
 them lightly in half an ounce of butter, 
 season with salt and pepper, and keep hot. 
 Peel five hard-boiled eggs and cut them into 
 dice. Prepare about three-quarters of a pint 
 of bechamel or other good white sauce, and 
 add to it a little cream. Put it into a 
 shallow pan and heat it up, then add the 
 eggs and mushrooms, season to taste, 
 adding a grate of nutmeg and a tiny pinch 
 of cayenne or Nepaul pepper. Let it get 
 thoroughly hot whilst stirring, care being 
 taken not to break up the eggs. Put the 
 preparation in a deep round dish, decorate 
 or garnish the top with thinly-cut strips of 
 Spanish pimiento, and send to table hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Belloy (Cold). 
 
 These are hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, 
 yolks removed, and the whites filled with a 
 salpicon composed of chopped truffle and 
 lobster, and stiff mayonnaise. Dish up 
 on croutons of fried bread, and garnish 
 with creamed anchovy butter. 
 
 Eggs en Banquettes. 
 
 Line some little oval tartlet moulds with 
 nouille paste crust (see p. 128), bake them 
 and fill with chopped hard-boiled egg, 
 mushrooms, parsley, grated cheese, mixed 
 with white sauce. Bake for ten minutes 
 in a sharp oven, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Cosmopolite. 
 
 Poach six small fresh eggs and trim and 
 drain them carefully. Egg and crumb and 
 fry them in olive oil or clarified butter. 
 Insert a slice of truffle in centre of each ; 
 and serve with demi-glace sauce. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 37 
 
 Eggs a rEugenie. 
 
 These are composed of small peeled cup 
 mushrooms, scooped out, tossed in butter, 
 then filled with a mixture of smoked finely 
 shredded salmon, truffles, and foie-gras, 
 heated up in HoUandaise sauce. Place a 
 poached egg on top of each, decorate with 
 lobster cor^ and trufiBe ; reheat and serve 
 hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Florentine. 
 
 These are poached eggs placed into small 
 baked paste croustades lined with spinach 
 puree, sauced over with Mornay sauce, and 
 browned in a sharp oven or under the 
 salamander. 
 
 Eggs a la St. Germain (Cold). 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs ; cut in 
 halves and remove the yolks ; rub through 
 a sieve and mix with mayonnaise and 
 chopped shrimps ; refill the eggs and dress 
 them on a bed of chopped aspic, with a 
 bearded oyster on top of each egg. 
 
 Eggs a la Gourmet. 
 
 These are halves of hard-boiled eggs 
 stuffed with crayfish tails, chopped truffles, 
 and smoked salmon, mixed with rich an- 
 chovy sauce, and baked for a few minutes. 
 
 Eggs a la Grand Due. 
 
 Scramble four fresh eggs, put this neatly 
 on small croutons of fried bread, sauce 
 over with rich bechamel mixed with re- 
 duced tomato pulp, garnish with asparagus 
 tips and shredded truffles. Dish up neatly 
 and serve hot. 
 
38 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Eggs a la Granville. 
 
 Shred coarsely four hard-boiled eggs ; 
 heat them up in a little brown onion sauce, 
 flavoured with finely chopped gherkins and 
 lemon rind ; dish up neatly and serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la mode de Caen. 
 
 Slice four hard-boiled eggs, cook them 
 in a rich white cream sauce, with slices 
 of Spanish onion (previously cooked in 
 milk and stock) ; dish up and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Careme. 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs, cut them in 
 halves, remove the yolks, and stuff with 
 a mixture composed of fried chopped 
 shallots, parsley, sorrel, and yolks of eggs. 
 Bake them for five minutes, dish up, and 
 serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Pacha. 
 
 Slice four to five hard-boiled eggs, mix 
 with mushroom heads, and heat up care- 
 fully in tomato sauce (p. 130) ; arrange 
 a rice border on a hot dish and put the 
 egg mixture in the centre ; serve hot. 
 
 Eggs with Cucumber. 
 
 {OEufs aux concombres.) 
 
 Peel thinly a large-sized cucumber, cut 
 off the ends, and divide the rest into IJ in. 
 to 2 in. pieces. Take a column cutter and 
 stamp out carefully the centre portion of 
 each piece of cucumber. Place them in a 
 buttered saute-pan with a little stock ; 
 cover with a buttered paper and cook in 
 the oven till just tender. Great care must 
 be taken so as not to break the shapes. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 39 
 
 Beat up three eggs, add to this a table- 
 spoonful of tomato pulp and half an ounce 
 of butter ; season nicely and stir over the 
 fire till creamy and just set. Place the 
 cucumber shapes on a hot dish and fill the 
 cavities with the prepared eggs. Sauce 
 over with tomato sauce, and serve hot. 
 
 Creamed Eggs with Mushrooms. 
 
 (CEufs aux champignons.) 
 
 Beat together five eggs, season them 
 with salt and pepper, add two table-spoon- 
 fuls of cream and half an ounce of butter. 
 Stir over the fire in a fireproof casserole 
 till nearly set, then add twelve finely 
 chopped or sliced mushrooms (previously 
 tossed in butter), and a little chopped 
 parsley. Continue to stir the mixture over 
 the fire for another minute or two, then 
 dish up on buttered pieces of toast and 
 serve. 
 
 Eggs a la St. Cloud. 
 
 Cut four hard-boiled eggs into slices 
 about half an inch thick remove the yolks 
 and place the whites carefully on to small 
 rounds of toasted bread, or plain mQk 
 biscuits ; fill the cavities with a salpicon 
 composed of dice-shaped pieces of gherkin, 
 fillets of herring (marinaded) and stoned 
 olives, seasoned with mayonnaise sauce. 
 Arrange this neatly and put a small round of 
 Spanish pimiento or half a red radish on 
 top of each. Dish up, garnish with sprigs 
 of fresh parsley, and serve cold. 
 
 Eggs a la Richelieu. 
 
 Select four even-sized (but not too 
 large) ripe tomatoes, remove the stems 
 
40 HOW TO COOK 
 
 and cut each in halves crossways ; remove 
 the core and pips, and fry them lightly in 
 an ounce of butter in a saute or frying-pan. 
 Cut out some rounds of buttered toast to 
 a little larger than the tomatoes. Beat 
 up three eggs in a stew-pan, add to it a 
 table-spoonful of cream, some chopped 
 pimientos (about a table-spoonful) and 
 half an ounce of butter ; season to taste, 
 and stir over the fire till creamy and just 
 setting. Place each half tomato on a 
 round of toast, fill the tomato with the 
 egg mixture, dish up, garnish with parsley, 
 and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Santos (Cold). 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs and cut them 
 in halves lengthways. Cut four ripe toma- 
 toes in halves, put them on a baking tin 
 and bake them in the oven until they are 
 just tender, then let them get cool, arrange 
 them in a row on a dish, and season with 
 salt and pepper. Place half an egg cut 
 side downwards on each tomato. Flavour 
 some mayonnaise sauce with a little tar- 
 ragon vinegar, and coat the eggs and 
 tomato smoothly with it. Decorate the 
 dish with pimiento and beetroot cut in 
 small fancy shces, garnish the base of the 
 dish with chopped aspic jeUy, and serve. 
 
 Scalloped Eggs with Spinach. 
 
 [Cotelettes d'oeufs aux Epinards.) 
 
 Pick and wash a pound of spinach, and 
 cook it with very little salted water till 
 tender, then drain, press well, and chop 
 finely, or pass it through a sieve ; season 
 nicely and reheat with a little cream or 
 butter. Poach six or seven eggs as directed 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 41 
 
 on p. 16. Butter the same number of scal- 
 lop shells and put a table-spoonful of 
 spinach in each ; upon this place a poached 
 egg and spread over with more spinach. 
 Sprinkle the top with grated cheese and 
 breadcrumbs ; place here and there a 
 tiny piece of butter, and bake in a hot 
 oven or brown under a salamander for a 
 few minutes. Dish up, garnish with pars- 
 ley, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Coque en Surprise. 
 
 For this dish fresh eggs are carefully 
 emptied, and refilled with scrambled egg 
 mixture, blended, when cold, with Mayon- 
 naise (p. 128). Dish them neatly on a 
 bed of crisp cress, and serve cold. 
 
 Salpicon of Eggs. 
 
 Separate the yolks and whites of three 
 eggs, beat up the former with a little 
 cream, and poach each separately in 
 buttered moulds or cups. When firm 
 and cooled, turn out and cut into cube 
 shapes, dice or julienne strips. Put these 
 into a small stew-pan and add six sliced pre- 
 serve mushrooms, one large truffle cut in 
 small dice or strips, and a slice of tongue 
 or ham cut similarly. Heat up in a little 
 well-seasoned bechamel sauce. Dish up, 
 when quite hot, on a round or oval dish, 
 garnish the salpicon with triangular slices 
 of toasted or fried bread, and serve. 
 
 Egg Patties. 
 
 {Petits Pates aux oeufs.) 
 
 For this a salpicon as described in the 
 preceding recipe may be prepared, or plain 
 
42 HOW TO COOK 
 
 hard-boiled eggs can be cut into dice or 
 strips, in place of the custard ; the truffle, 
 ham, or tongue may, if liked, be added, 
 in which case use rather less mushrooms. 
 Have ready some small puff-paste patty 
 cases, fill them with the salpicon, place 
 the lid on each, dish up, reheat, then 
 garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve. 
 
 Egg Bouchees. 
 
 Cut three hard-boiled eggs into small 
 dice or slice them and chop rather coarsely. 
 Chop also six preserved mushrooms and, 
 if liked, a truffle. Mix these all together 
 carefully, and moisten with a little well- 
 reduced and seasoned bechamel sauce. 
 Keep the mixture hot in a bain-marie 
 until required. Have ready some small 
 puff -paste bouchee cases, and fill them 
 with the above preparation, put the lid 
 on each, reheat in the oven. Dish up, 
 and garnish with sprigs of parsley. Serve 
 hot. 
 
 Egg and Oyster Bouchees. 
 
 Cut the whites of three hard-boiled 
 eggs into small strips or dice. Rub the 
 yolks through a sieve, and mix with about 
 half a pint of well-seasoned white sauce. 
 Blanch and beard six or more oysters 
 and cut each into four. Put these with the 
 oyster liquor and the egg white into the 
 prepared sauce, then reheat without letting 
 it actually boil, and season to taste. Fill 
 some hot puff-paste bouchee cases with the 
 mixture, dish up neatly, and serve hot. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 43 
 
 Egg Cannelons. 
 
 {Cannehns d'ceufs.) 
 Cut six to eight hard-boiled eggs in 
 halves, remove the yolks, and rub them 
 through a sieve. Chop the whites finely. 
 Soak a crustless roll of milk bread (cut up 
 very small) in milk, then squeeze it well, 
 and mash up finely. Mix this with the 
 ^ggs (yolk and white), and add enough 
 bechamel sauce to bind the mixture. Di- 
 vide it up into small even-sized portions, 
 shape each into a roll, then egg and crumb 
 them carefully, and fry in hot fat. Drain, 
 dish up, garnish with sprigs of fresh or 
 fried parsley, and serve hot. 
 
 Egg Cudets. 
 
 {Cotelettes auas ceufs.) 
 
 Boil four eggs till hard (allow ten min- 
 utes), cool them and remove the shell, 
 then chop them, not too finely. Chop 
 likewise, but rather finer, two ounces of 
 cooked bacon or ham, and about a dessert- 
 spoonful of parsley. 
 
 Prepare a white sauce with 1 oz. butter, 
 I oz. of flour, stirred in and cooked slightly, 
 then add a gill of milk, full measure. Cook 
 it for a few minutes and stirring all the time 
 to prevent lumps forming. Now add the 
 above-named ingredients, mix well and 
 season with salt, pepper and a grate of 
 nutmeg. Spread on to a dish and let cool. 
 
 Divide the mixture into eight or nine 
 portions and shape each into a cutlet. 
 Egg and crumb them carefuUy, and fry 
 them in deep hot fat. Drain well, insert 
 a small piece of macaroni at the end of 
 each cutlet, to represent the bones. Dish 
 up, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. 
 
44 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Egg Cutlets with Spinach. 
 
 {Cotelettes d'oeufs aux Epinards.) 
 
 Take four hard-boiled eggs, two raw 
 eggs, half a pint of bechamel sauce, three 
 ounces lean ham, six mushrooms, one tea- 
 spoonful chopped parsley, one pound 
 cooked spinach, one ounce butter, one 
 table-spoonful cream, salt, pepper, nut- 
 meg, two shallots, mashed potatoes for 
 border, breadcrumbs, frying fat to fry. 
 
 Reduce the sauce to about 1^ giUs, chop 
 coarsely the hard-boiled eggs, ham, and 
 mushrooms. Stir two raw yolks of eggs 
 into the sauce, let it bind without boiling ; 
 then add the chopped eggs, ham, mush- 
 rooms and parsley ; season to taste with 
 pepper, salt and nutmeg. Spread on a 
 dish or plate and let cool. Pass the spinach 
 through a sieve, peel and chop the shallot, 
 and fry in the butter to a golden colour, put 
 in the spinach, then season to taste. Mix 
 the cream with a little flour and stir into 
 the spinach and cook for ten minutes. 
 Shape the egg-mixture into neat cutlets, 
 then egg and crumb them. Fry in hot fat, 
 drain, dish up on a border of potatoes on 
 a hot dish, fill the centre with the prepared 
 spinach, and serve. 
 
 Egg Fritters a la Milanaise. 
 
 (Beignets d'aeufs d la Milanaise.) 
 
 Cut four hard-boiled eggs into halves 
 lengthwise, and carefully remove the yolks. 
 Melt half an ounce of butter in a stew-pan, 
 and add half -ounce of flour ; moisten with 
 half a gill white stock or milk, stir till it 
 thickens ; then add one raw egg-yolk and 
 allow to bind. Incorporate one ounce of 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 45 
 
 chopped lean ham or tongue and four 
 ounces chopped cooked chicken or veal, one 
 teaspoonful finely chopped parsley, one 
 small shallot, chopped and fried in butter, 
 lemon juice, pepper, salt, and the yolks of 
 the hard-boiled eggs. Fill up each white 
 with this, egg and crumb them carefully, 
 and fry in hot clarified butter. Dish up, 
 garnish with fried parsley, and serve with 
 a rich tomato sauce. 
 
 Egg Kromeskis. 
 
 {Cromesquis (Tceufs.) 
 
 Take three hard-boiled eggs, half a 
 gill of bechamel sauce, half an ounce of 
 chopped ox tongue, frying batter, two raw 
 yolks of eggs, half a teaspoonful finely 
 chopped truffle, five thin pancakes (un- 
 sweetened), frying fat, seasoning. 
 
 Peel the eggs, cut them into slices and 
 chop rather coarsely, put them in a stew- 
 pan, moisten with the sauce and the egg- 
 yolks, season to taste with salt, pepper 
 and nutmeg, stir over the fire till hot, and 
 add the truffles and tongue ; mix well, and 
 turn on to a plate to cool. Shape into even- 
 sized corks, wrap each in a square piece of 
 pancake, dip into frying batter, and fry 
 in hot fat. Drain, dish up on a folded 
 napkin, and garnish with crisp parsley. 
 
 Egg Coquilles with Spinach. 
 
 (Coquilles d'ceufs aux Epinards.) 
 Butter the inside of eight china coquille 
 moulds or else ordinary souffle cases, put 
 a table-spoonful of prepared and seasoned 
 spinach in each ; upon this put about a 
 dessert-spoonful of cream. Break a fresh 
 egg, season with pepper and salt, place 
 
46 HOW TO COOK 
 
 the cases on a baking sheet and bake in a 
 moderately heated oven for about eight 
 minutes. Dish up, and serve quickly. 
 
 Eggs a rAfricaine. 
 
 Cook four ounces of rice, previously 
 washed and drained, in sufficient well- 
 seasoned rich stock and mix when finished 
 with a little chopped ham and grated cheese. 
 Prepare some oval-shaped bread croutes 
 (fried in butter), and spread one side of 
 each thickly with the prepared savoury 
 rice, and keep hot. Next beat up five eggs, 
 season to taste with salt and pepper. Peel 
 two small ripe tomatoes, slice and chop 
 them coarsely, drain, and cook in a saucepan 
 with half an ounce of butter ; then add the 
 eggs, also a tablespoonful of cream, and 
 stir over the fire until the eggs begin to 
 thicken. Dish up the prepared croutes of 
 rice, and spread the egg mixture roughly 
 on each croute. Garnish with sprigs of 
 fresh parsley, and serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a rAmericaine. 
 
 Prepare and bake some paste croustades, 
 oval or round, half fill each with a dehcately 
 prepared ragout composed of oysters, 
 bearded and cut in halves, mushrooms 
 (champignons) cut in slices, and well- 
 seasoned bechamel sauce. Place a neatly 
 poached egg on top of each, pour over a 
 little rich brown sauce, then dish up, and 
 serve at once. 
 
 Eggs a la Boisellier. 
 
 Line some previously buttered small 
 bouche or cup moulds carefully with thin 
 
Eggs and omelets 47 
 
 slices of preserved mushrooms, placing a 
 mushroom head in the centre, then break 
 a fresh egg in each, season to taste, place 
 them on a baking tin, and poach in the 
 oven. Dish up neatly, pour over some hot 
 mushroom sauce or Italian sauce, and 
 serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Bretonne. 
 
 Cook till tender some previously soaked 
 haricot beans in well-seasoned stock, and 
 rub them through a sieve. The puree may 
 if liked be mixed with a little chopped ham 
 fried with finely minced onion. Put the 
 prepared puree on a dish, and place some 
 nicely poached eggs, neatly trimmed, on 
 top. Poui over some hot cream sauce, 
 and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Colbert. 
 
 This is a simple and delicious dish emi- 
 nently suitable as an after-dinner savoury, 
 but requires great care and careful atten- 
 tion in order to make the eggs presentable 
 and of good shape during the process of 
 frying. 
 
 Take four or six new-laid eggs, break 
 each very carefully in a cup, season with 
 pepper and salt, and sprinkle over about 
 half a teaspoonful of grated Gruy^re or 
 Parmesan cheese, drop each very gently 
 into a pan of hot fat or frying oil — the latter 
 if of good quality is preferable for this 
 purpose. Keep the eggs in shape, and 
 turn frequently by means of a wooden 
 spoon. Fry them to a pretty golden 
 colom:, then take up and drain them on a 
 cloth or kitchen paper. Dress them neatly 
 on a hot dish, sprinkle over with grated 
 cheese, and serve quickly. 
 
48 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Eggs a la Paraientier. 
 
 Take three large potatoes, one gill of 
 rich cream, one ounce of grated cheese, 
 six small eggs, sauce (bechamel or supreme), 
 half an ounce of butter, breadcrumbs. 
 
 Wash and scrub the potatoes, dry them, 
 and bake them in the oven, cut them into 
 halves and scoop out the mealy parts. 
 Poach the eggs in slightly salted water 
 flavoured with lemon juice, trim them. 
 Put a little sauce in each half of the pota- 
 toes, place an egg in each. Mix the re- 
 mainder of sauce with half the cheese. 
 Cover with the sauce and cheese, sprinkle 
 over with breadcrumbs, add grated cheese ; 
 divide the butter in little bits and place on 
 top, brown in a very hot oven, dish up, 
 and serve quickly. 
 
 Eggs a la Salamandre. 
 
 Take six to eight eggs, six to eight slices 
 of toasted bread, two ounces of cooked ham 
 or beef-tongue, one ounce of butter, one 
 gill well-reduced bechamel sauce, three 
 ounces of grated cheese, salt, pepper, 
 cayenne, one teaspoonful chilli vinegar, or 
 one table-spoonful French wine vinegar. 
 
 Have ready a saute-pan half filled with 
 water ; add the vinegar and sufficient salt 
 to taste. Pound the meat in a mortar tiU 
 smooth, add half the butter, 1 oz. cheese, 
 and sufficient sauce to form a smooth paste, 
 season it with pepper, and rub through a 
 sieve. Stamp out as many oval shapes of 
 toasted bread as there are eggs, butter 
 them well, and spread one side thickly 
 with the puree above prepared ; place 
 them on a dish when ready and keep hot 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 49 
 
 at the mouth of the oven. Break the 
 eggs carefully into the saute-pan containing 
 the seasoned water (boiling), poach for 
 three minutes, take up with a sUce, trim 
 and place on the prepared toasts, mask 
 quickly with bechamel sauce, sprinkle well 
 with cheese, brown them under a red-hot 
 salamander, dish up, and serve. 
 
 Anchovy Eggs. 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs and cut each 
 in half crossways, using a sharp knife. 
 Remove the yolks and pound them in a 
 mortar with a table-spoonful of anchovy 
 paste or six anchovy fillets ; when smooth 
 add a little anchovy essence and a table- 
 spoonful of double cream. Season with a 
 pinch of cayenne or Paprika. Rub this 
 puree through a fine sieve, and fill with 
 it the eggs. Have ready eight rounds of 
 toasted or fried bread croutes the size of 
 the half egg, spread these over with the 
 remainder of the puree, and place half 
 an egg on each, cut side upwards (a little 
 portion of the white of egg can be cut off 
 so as to make them stand firm on the 
 croutes). Place a star-shaped piece of 
 tongue in the centre of each egg. Dish 
 up, garnish with parsley, and send to table. 
 
 Eggs a la Chantilly. 
 
 Line some oval shaped tartlet pans with 
 thinly rolled out puff paste, and bake them 
 " blind." Fill these crusts with a well- 
 seasoned green pea puree, and place on top 
 of each a nicely poached egg. Have ready 
 some hot Mousseline or HoUandaise sauce 
 coloured with a little spinach puree to give 
 it a greenish tint. Sauce over the eggs 
 with this, dish up, and serve hot. 
 
50 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Eggs a la Chimay. 
 
 (Stuffed Eggs au Gratin.) 
 
 Boil the required number of eggs for 
 about twelve minutes, cool and shell them 
 carefully ; then cut each in half lengthways 
 and take out the yolks. Rub the yolks 
 through a medium fine sieve, and mix with 
 a little anchovy essence, oiled butter, 
 chopped tarragon and parsley. Season 
 with salt, pepper and a suspicion of cayenne. 
 Fill the whites of egg with this preparation, 
 then arrange the eggs neatly, cut sides 
 downwards, on a well-buttered gratin or 
 other baking dish. Sauce over carefully 
 with well-reduced bechamel or other good 
 white sauce, sprinkle over some grated 
 cheese (Gruyere or Cheddar), also some 
 fine brown breadcrumbs, and lastly a 
 little melted butter. Finish the dish in a 
 sharp oven or under the salamander and 
 serve hot. The surface of the eggs must 
 be nicely browned by the time the dish 
 leaves the oven. Send to table hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Capucine (Cold). 
 
 Flake some cooked white fish, mix it 
 with sufiicient aspic jeUy to set, and well- 
 seasoned mayonnaise sauce to flavour, then 
 fill up a previously aspic coated plain border 
 mould. Poach six to eight eggs in the 
 usual way, drain, trim them neatly, and 
 when cold mask over each with white 
 chaud-froid sauce, then decorate the surface 
 of each with thinly-cut strips of trufHe and 
 pimiento. Unmould the fish border on to 
 a cold dish, place the prepared eggs neatly 
 in the centre, and serve. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 51 
 
 Fried Eggs a la Fermiere. 
 
 Grill or broil eight thin slices of lean 
 bacon or ham, fry the same number of 
 eggs in a little butter or bacon fat, trim 
 each neatly and place on a slice of bacon 
 or ham. Range these in the form of a 
 border round a dish, fill the centre with 
 a mixture of vegetables (macedoine de 
 legumes) heated and mixed with a little 
 white sauce. Garnish the centre with 
 Parisian potatoes (marble-shaped potatoes, 
 blanched, drained, and baked in the oven, 
 or fried). The dish is then ready for serv- 
 ing. 
 
 Fried Eggs with Savoury Rice. 
 
 Cook four ounces of Fatna rice in about 
 a pint of rich stock, add enough well- 
 reduced tomato sauce to colour it, then 
 add two table-spoonfuls of grated cheese, 
 and two slices of fried bacon cut into small 
 strips. Season to taste with salt, and 
 reduce a little until sufficiently firm to 
 shape. Melt about an ounce of butter in 
 an omelet pan, and fry in it five or six fresh 
 eggs, trim each neatly, or else stamp out 
 with a plain round pastry cutter. Put the 
 rice in a buttered flat mould, press it in 
 well, and turn out quickly on to a hot dish. 
 Place the fried eggs in the form of a circle 
 on the rice shape, then put a tiny pinch of 
 red or black pepper on the centre of each 
 yolk of egg, and serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Nesselrode. 
 
 Prepare a savoury chestnut puree as 
 described below, put it in a forcing bag, to 
 which have attached a plain or fancy tube, 
 
52 HOW TO COOK 
 
 and make a fairly bold border on a buttered 
 gratin dish. Put about two table-spoonfuls 
 of cream in the dish; upon this break 
 carefully four or five fresh eggs. Season with 
 salt and pepper, and bake in the oven 
 until the eggs are set. Serve hot. 
 
 Savoury Chestnut Puree. 
 
 {For Eggs a la Nesselrode.) 
 
 Boil half a pound of large chestnuts for 
 about twenty minutes, remove both skins, 
 boil again in a little stock, and when quite 
 tender rub through a fine wire sieve. 
 Season to taste with salt and pepper, and 
 moisten with a very little brown sauce, 
 tomato sauce, or else rich gravy stock. 
 Mix well, so as to produce a smooth paste. 
 
 Baked Eggs a la Princesse. 
 
 Have ready the following materials : — 
 Six eggs, six rounds of fried bread, one 
 ounce of butter, two ounces of cooked 
 ham or tongue, parsley, the yolk of a 
 hard-boiled egg, asparagus-point ragout, 
 salt and pepper. 
 
 Melt the butter in a saute-pan ; break 
 the eggs one by one into a basin and slide 
 them into the pan, and cook them in the 
 oven until the whites are set ; season 
 lightly with white pepper and salt. Cut 
 them out with a plain round cutter and 
 place each on a crouton of fried bread. 
 Ornament the eggs with alternate little 
 groups of chopped ham or tongue, chopped 
 parslej', and chopped yolk of egg (hard- 
 boiled). Dress them neatly on a round 
 dish ; put them in the oven just a second 
 or two ; fill the centre with a ragout of 
 asparagus points, and serve. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 53 
 
 Egg Croquettes. 
 
 {Croquettes d'CEufsr^ 
 Chop rather coarsely four hard-boiled 
 eggs ; chop Ukewise, but rather finer, two 
 ounces of cooked tongue or ham, and 
 about a dessert-spoonful of parsley. Pre- 
 pare a white sauce with one ounce of 
 butter, three-quarters of an ounce of flour 
 stirred in and blended, and a gill of milk. 
 Cook it for a few minutes, stirring all the 
 time to prevent lumps from forming. Now 
 add the above-named ingredients ; mix 
 well, and season with salt, pepper, and a 
 grate of nutmeg. Spread the mixture on 
 to a dish and let it cool. Divide the mixture 
 into eight or nine portions and make each 
 into a ball or cork shape ; egg and crumb 
 them carefully, and fry them in deep hot 
 fat. Drain them on a paper or cloth. 
 Dish up, garnish with fried parsley, and 
 serve. 
 
 Fried Egg Rolls. 
 
 Cut six or eight hard-boiled eggs into 
 slices, and rub them through a coarse wire 
 sieve, then mince coarsely a dozen pre- 
 served mushrooms and slightly fry them in 
 an ounce of butter. To this add the egg 
 puree, stir well, season with salt and pepper 
 and a grate of nutmeg. Moisten with 
 suflRcient well-reduced bechamel sauce to 
 bind the mixture. When thoroughly hot, 
 spread the mixture on to a dish or plate 
 and let cool. Shape the mixture into 
 croquettes, even-sized balls, or cork shapes, 
 and dip each into beaten egg, cover with 
 coarse-grained fiorador or semolina (the 
 former is preferable), and fry in hot fat a 
 golden colour ; dish up neatly and garnish 
 with fried parsley. 
 
 Note. — The above-made egg rolls, 
 
54 HOW TO COOK 
 
 dressed round a bed of cooked spinach 
 nicely seasoned, makes a very tasty dinner 
 or supper dish. 
 
 Egg SouflEle. 
 
 (Souffle aux (Eufs.) 
 
 Melt two ounces of butter in a stew-pan, 
 fry, i.e., blend in it, a peeled and finely 
 chopped shallot, and stir in three-quarters 
 of an ounce of Brown and Poison's corn- 
 flour. Cook for a few minutes, but do not 
 allow it to get brown. Next incorporate 
 five yolks of eggs and place the pan in an- 
 other containing boiling water, and whisk 
 over the fire till the mixture thickens, then 
 add eight chopped preserved, mushrooms 
 and let it cool a little. Whisk to a very 
 stiff froth the whites of four eggs, and stir 
 carefully into the mixture of yolks, etc., 
 previously seasoned with salt, pepper, and 
 a good pinch of Paprika. Pour this into a 
 lajge buttered souffle case or several small 
 ones (china ramakin cases will do nicely). 
 Place in a saute-pan containing some boil- 
 ing water, cover with a buttered paper, and 
 cook in the oven for about fifteen minutes 
 if small cases are used, or twenty-five 
 minutes when a large case is used. Dish 
 up and serve quickly. 
 
 Savoury Egg Cream on Toast. 
 
 {Crime aux (Eufs sur CrolUes.) 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 One ounce of butter, half an ounce of 
 flour, one gill of cream, about half a gill 
 of milk, four eggs, one teaspoonful chopped 
 parsley and savoury herbs (tarragon and 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 55 
 
 cherVil), salt, pepper, a pinch of cayenne, 
 three or four sUces of toasted bread. 
 
 Melt the butter in a stew-pan, add the 
 flour and let it cook a little over the fire 
 and add the cream and milk. Stir con- 
 stantly until it thickens, let it simmer very 
 slowly, taking care that it does not bum 
 or curdle. Separate the whites from the 
 yolks of the eggs, beat up the whites to a 
 stiff froth, mix the yolks with the sauce, 
 season with salt, pepper and cayenne ; 
 stir in carefully, or rather fold in the 
 whisked whites of eggs and add the parsley 
 and savoury herbs at the same time. Have 
 ready the toast cut into convenient sUces ; 
 put the mixture on these heaped up ; 
 smooth over with the blade of a knife. 
 Pass in a hot oven until of a golden colour, 
 dish up, and serve quickly. 
 
 Egg and Tomato Savoury 
 (Cold). 
 
 Scald three or four ripe tomatoes, and 
 remove the skin, cut them into round 
 slices, place each slice of tomato on to a 
 neatly cut slice of brown bread, cut out 
 with a round paste cutter and spread over 
 with creamed butter. Put a slice of 
 hard-boiled egg on top of the tomato, 
 and cross two fillets of anchovy over each. 
 Sprinkle a little chopped parsley and lob- 
 ster coral on the top. Dish up neatly, and 
 serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Dreux. 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Six eggs, quarter of a pound of lean ham 
 (cooked), one dessert-spoonful chopped 
 
56 HOW TO COOK 
 
 parsley, half an ounce of butter, half a gill 
 of cream, six rounds of buttered toast. 
 
 Butter thickly six deep patty-pans, chop 
 the ham finely and mix with the parsley, 
 sprinkle well the patty-pan? with this, so 
 as to completely cover the inside of each, 
 break an egg carefully into each patty-pan, 
 season with a pinch of salt, pepper and 
 cayenne, and divide the cream equally on 
 top of each egg ; put also a tiny piece of 
 butter in each. Put the tins in a saute- 
 pan three-parts full of boiling water, place 
 in the oven, and poach until the whites are 
 completely set. Have ready some rounds 
 of buttered toast as nearly as possible 
 the size of the patty-pans, turn out the 
 egg-shapes, and place them carefully on 
 the toast. Dish up and serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la St. Jacques (Cold). 
 
 Line eight to nine small bouche moulds 
 with puff paste or rough puff paste (roU 
 out the paste rather thinly, and stamp out 
 the rounds necessary for lining with a 
 fluted cutter). Prick the bottom of the 
 paste with a fork. Fill them with rice or 
 dried peas, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven to a golden colour. Unmould whilst 
 hot. Brush over the outside and inside 
 with beaten yolk of egg mixed with meat 
 glaze, and return to the oven for a few 
 minutes, then let cool. Poach, in smaller- 
 sized bouche moulds than those first used, 
 as many eggs as are necessary. Unmould 
 them and let cool, then mask them with 
 aspic, and set each in one of the prepared 
 paste crusts. Decorate with chopped aspic 
 tinted with a little spinach greening. Dish 
 up tastefully, and serve. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 57 
 
 Eggs a la Medicis. 
 
 Drain a handful of slices of pickled 
 beetroot on a cloth, and saute them in a 
 saute-pan with fresh butter over a moder- 
 ate fire. To this add four hard-boiled 
 eggs cut into slices, season with pepper 
 and salt, add a good teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley and moisten with half a gill of 
 cream, cover the pan and place it in the 
 oven for about ten minutes. Dish up 
 neatly, and serve hot. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs with Anchovies. 
 
 {OEufs farcis aux Anchois.) 
 
 Take four hard-boiled eggs, four Gor- 
 gona anchovies, one ounce of butter, a few 
 sprigs of parsley, tomato sauce, bread- 
 crumbs, eight rounds of toasted bread, cut 
 to the size of the eggs. 
 
 Peel the eggs, cut them in halves long- 
 ways, take out the yolk, remove skin and 
 bones from the anchovies, put them in a 
 mortar and pound ; add the butter, a 
 little blanched parsley, also a pinch of 
 pepper ; pound this until quite smooth, 
 then take out and rub through a sieve. 
 Fill the halves of whites of eggs with this 
 preparation, and stand each on a round 
 piece of toast. Sprinkle over with some 
 fresh breadcrumbs, place on a buttered 
 silver or china dish, and put in the oven 
 for a few minutes, so as to get thoroughly 
 hot ; sauce over with tomato or Italienne 
 sauce, and serve quickly. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs with Spinach. 
 
 {(Eufs farcis aux Epinards.) 
 
 Boil six eggs for ten minutes, peel them, 
 cut them in halves crossways, stamp out 
 
58 HOW TO COOK 
 
 the centre with a half-inch cutter. Cut out 
 some croutons about the size of the base 
 of an egg, and fry them in clarified butter ; 
 have ready some cooked and seasoned 
 spinach puree and enriched with cream. 
 Cook for a few minutes whilst stirring, fill 
 the egg-halves with spinach, close the top 
 with the pieces cut out, and place each, 
 cut side down, on a crouton. Dish up, 
 garnish with the yolk, minced coarsely, and 
 thin shces of tongue. Serve with a Uttle 
 * brown sauce. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs on Croutes. 
 
 {CEufs fargis sutj CroiUes.) 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Three hard-boiled eggs, two Gorgona 
 anchovies (boned), one teaspoonful Echa- 
 lote vinegar, half a teaspoonful Worcester 
 sauce, one ounce butter, a few sprigs of 
 finely chopped tarragon and chervil, six 
 round slices of fried or toasted bread 
 about If in. in diameter, chopped parsley 
 and some Paprika pepper. 
 
 Remove the shells from the eggs, cut 
 them in halves, crossways, take out the 
 yolks and pound them in a mortar with 
 the anchovies ; when smooth add the butter, 
 mix thoroughly and add by degrees the 
 Echalote vinegar and the Worcester sauce. 
 Rub this through a sieve and fill the cavi- 
 ties of the whites of eggs with the puree, 
 cut the points off the eggs so as to make 
 them stand. Put the remainder of the 
 puree in a forcing bag with a plain tube. 
 Put a little of it in the centre of each 
 croute, place the eggs upon it, decorate 
 round and on top of the eggs with 
 the savoury puree, sprinkle some finely 
 chopped parsley and Paprika pepper over 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 59 
 
 the surface; this must be done rather 
 artistically so as to make the dish effective. 
 Range them on a dish covered with a 
 fancy paper. Garnish with sprigs of water- 
 cresses or crisp parsley, and serv*;. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs a la Madras. 
 
 Take four hard-boiled eggs, two and a 
 half ounces butter, one ounce anchovy 
 paste, one teaspoonful curry paste, one 
 teaspoonful chutney, one table-spoonful 
 cooked spinach, eight small round slices 
 of bread, also two pickled red chillies or 
 pimiento for garnish. 
 
 Peel the eggs, cut them in halves crossways, 
 scoop out the yolks and put in a mortar, 
 add to this one and a half ounces butter, the 
 anchovy paste, curry paste, and chutney ; 
 pound until quite smooth, and rub through 
 a sieve. Fill the hollows of the whites of 
 eggs with this. Have ready eight rounds of 
 bread a little larger than the cut sides of 
 the eggs, fry them to a golden colour in but- 
 ter or lard, when drained and cold spread 
 one side with the remainder of the mixture, 
 cut the points off the eggs so as to make 
 them stand firmly, and place each half in 
 the centre of a croute. Cut out fanciful 
 pieces of the chilli pod or pimiento, put one 
 in the centre of the stuffing, mix the spinach 
 with the butter, rub all through a fine sieve, 
 put this into a forcing-bag or paper cornet, 
 and ornament the sides and tops of croutes 
 according to fancy. Keep in a cool place. 
 Dish up when required for table. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs a la Volga (Cold). 
 
 Boil six small eggs till hard ; when cooled 
 shell them, cut them in halves and carefully 
 
6o HOW TO COOK 
 
 remove the yolks. Rub the latter through 
 a sieve, and mix with a gill of remoulade 
 or tartare sauce. Prepare a salpicon of a 
 quarter jar of Russian caviare, three or 
 four anchovy fillets cut into small dice, 
 twelve prawn-tails cut into small dice. 
 Add sufficient remoulade sauce to bind 
 this mixture, and fUl the cavities of eggs 
 with this. Place each on oval-shaped 
 croutons of bread fried in butter. Sauce 
 over each carefully with remoulade sauce, 
 dish up, and garnish neatly with prawns 
 and cresses or parsley. Serve as hors- 
 d'oeuvre or side dish. When a large quan- 
 tity of eggs dressed in this style is needed 
 it is advisable to incorporate a sheet of 
 dissolved gelatine into each gill of remou- 
 lade or tartare sauce. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs, Swiss style. 
 
 {(Eufs far f is a la Suisse.) 
 
 Boil six small fresh eggs till hard, and 
 when cold peel them. Cut each through 
 the centre with a column cutter and so 
 remove the yolk portion. Next make a 
 mixture as follows : Chop an ounce of 
 ham or tongue, or a similar quantity of 
 cold chicken or veal, one small truffle or 
 some truffle trimmings, three or four stoned 
 olives, and six to eight preserved mush- 
 rooms, all chopped up finely. Season with 
 salt and pepper, and moisten with a little 
 bechamel or other good white sauce. Fill 
 the cavities of the eggs with this, and 
 replace at each end the small round of 
 white of egg cut oft to remove the yolk. 
 Brush over the stuffed eggs >vith a beaten 
 up raw egg, and roll in breadcrumbs. 
 Have ready some hot fat, in which fry 
 the eggs to a nice golden brown. Drain 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 6i 
 
 them on a cloth or paper. Dish up, gar- 
 nish with fried parsley, and serve. 
 
 Eggs in Cases. 
 
 (CEufs en Caisses.) 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Six small eggs, a teaspoonful of chopped 
 parsley, two table-spoonfuls of bread- 
 crumbs, one of grated Parmesan cheese, 
 half a gill of cream, one ounce of butter, 
 pepper and salt, six paper cases, one 
 shallot, sweet olive oil. 
 
 Oil the inside of paper cases, and place 
 them on a baking-tin in the oven for a few 
 minutes. Peel the shallot and chop finely, 
 fry a little in olive oil, then drain and put 
 it, equally divided, into the cases. Mix the 
 breadcrumbs, half the parsley, and Par- 
 mesan cheese, adding a little pepper. Put 
 about a dessert-spoonful of this and a tiny 
 piece of butter into each of the cases ; 
 carefully break an egg into each case ; sea- 
 son with pepper and salt. Divide the cream 
 equally and pour over each egg, sprinkle 
 with a little Parmesan cheese, and bake in 
 a moderate oven for about six minutes. 
 Take out, and brown the surface under a 
 salamander or hot shovel, sprinkle with a 
 little chopped parsley, dish up on a folded 
 naplcin, and serve quickly. 
 
 Egg Fritters a la Magdalene. 
 
 Peel five hard-boiled eggs and cut each 
 in half. Remove the yolks and rub through 
 a fine wire sieve. Grate enough Gruy^re 
 cheese to weigh the same as two eggs, and mix 
 with the sieved yolks ; to this add a dessert- 
 spoonful of finely chopped herbs (parsley, 
 tarragon and chervil) and a little French 
 
62 HOW TO COOK 
 
 mustard. When thoroughly mixed fill 
 each egg with this, and spread enough of 
 the mixture on top to give it the same shape 
 as a whole egg. Brush over carefully 
 with beaten egg, cover with breadcrumbs, 
 and fry in hot fat. Serve with hot piquante 
 sauce. 
 
 Shirred Eggs. 
 
 Butter three or four small round gratin 
 dishes holding about three eggs each, and 
 besprinkle with brown breadcrumbs. 
 Break carefully two or three fresh eggs on 
 each dish, and place them in the oven, 
 with a tiny bit of butter on top of each 
 yolk of egg, and allow to just set the eggs ; 
 season with salt and pepper, and send to 
 table. 
 
 (Eufs sur plat. 
 
 Proceed the same as directed in the pre- 
 ceding recipe, by merely omitting the 
 breadcrumbs. In place of using gratin 
 dishes, ordinary plates can be made do 
 for this purpose. 
 
 Dropped Eggs. 
 
 These are poached eggs cooked in sea- 
 soned milk. Allow them to poach for 
 barely five minutes, then take up each 
 with a skimmer, trim neatly or stamp out 
 with a round cutter. Place the eggs on 
 nicely-toasted and buttered slices of bread, 
 dish up, and serve. 
 
 Curried Eggs (another way). 
 
 Peel, slice, and chop a small onion, and 
 fry to a pale golden brown in half ounce 
 of butter ; then add one dessert-spoonful 
 of curry powder and one of flour ; fry 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 63 
 
 both a little and moisten with a gill of 
 gravy or rich stock ; stir till it boils, then 
 simmer for fifteen minutes and strain. 
 Cut into rather thick slices four hard- 
 boiled eggs, put them into a saute-pan 
 and pour over the strained sauce. Season 
 with salt and pepper, add a tablespoonful 
 of cream and the juice of a quarter of a 
 lemon. Heat up gently but thoroughly, 
 taking care not to break up the egg slices. 
 Serve with plainly boiled rice. 
 
 Eggs with Creamed Cheese. 
 
 (CEufs au Fromage.) 
 Cut up into thin shreds or strips while 
 warm, the white part of six hard-boiled 
 eggs. Pile this up neatly on a hot dish, 
 pour over some creamed cheese as de- 
 scribed below, and serve hot. 
 
 Creamed Cheese. 
 
 (Frontage d la Crime.) 
 Beat up two eggs and mix with three- 
 quarters of a pint of boiling milk, then stir 
 in a saucepan over the fire until the egg 
 liaison is formed, but do not let it actually 
 boil. Lastly add three to four table-spoonfuls 
 of grated Gruydre or Cheddar cheese. The 
 cream should be reheated, but not boiled, 
 a second time before it is served. 
 
 Fried Curried Eggs. 
 
 Boil four or five eggs till hard, cut them 
 in halves crossways, remove the yolks, 
 pound them in a mortar, adding sufficient 
 well-seasoned white sauce to form a smooth 
 paste ; add a dessert-spoonful curry or 
 mulligatawny paste and a dessert-spoon- 
 
64 HOW TO COOK 
 
 ful of cream. Refill the whites of the 
 eggs with the mixture, smooth it over 
 with a knife, and cover each with a layer 
 of cooked rice which has been boiled 
 until quite soft, mixed with butter, and 
 seasoned with pepper, salt and nutmeg. 
 Put the curried eggs aside until the rice 
 is cold and set, then dip each into beaten 
 egg, roll in soft breadcrumbs, and fry 
 them in deep, hot fat. Drain them well, 
 dish up and garnish with fried parsley. 
 This dish is also nice cold. 
 
 Egg and Tomato Custard. 
 
 Break four eggs into a basin, beat up 
 and add three table-spoonfuls of tomato 
 pulp (that is, fresh ripe tomatoes rubbed 
 through a fine sieve), one table-spoonful of 
 cream and one table-spoonful of grated 
 cheese. Season with salt, pepper, and nut- 
 meg. Butter six or seven small souffld 
 cases, fill them with the prepared custard, 
 and bake them slowly in a fairly hot oven 
 for about ten minutes. Dish up and serve 
 quickly. 
 
 Devilled Egg Toast. 
 
 (CroMes d'ceufs a la Diable.) 
 Shell three hard-boiled eggs, cut some of 
 the white part into fine strips to be used 
 for garnish, and chop up the remainder 
 rather finely. Mix with one table-spoonful 
 of chutney, one teaspoonful of mustard, 
 and one table-spoonful of curry paste ; 
 mix well and season with cayenne and 
 Paprika pepper. Heat this up in a fire- 
 proof casserole. Have ready eight to ten 
 oblong slices of toasted and buttered 
 bread ; spread each with the prepared 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 65 
 
 mixture ; arrange the strips of white of 
 egg in the form of lattice work on top of 
 each slice of toast. Dish up, reheat, gar- 
 nish with parsley, and serve. 
 
 Ham Eggs (Cold). 
 
 {CEufs au Jambon.) 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs, cut them in 
 halves crossways and scoop out the yolks. 
 Chop finely two ounces of lean cooked 
 ham, and pound it with the egg yolks. 
 Season nicely with Krona or Paprika 
 pepper and a grate of nutmeg. Incorpor- 
 ate one or two table-spoonfuls of rich cream 
 and pass through a fine sieve. Fill the 
 hollow part of the whites of eggs with 
 the prepared puree, and place each, cut side 
 down, on oval-shaped slices of ham or 
 tongue, previously spread over with ham 
 puree ; then range them on slices of toasted 
 bread a little larger than the egg-halves. 
 Put the remainder of ham puree in a 
 forcing bag and decorate the sides of the 
 eggs with this, also fancifully cut slices 
 of gherkins and tomatoes, or beetroot. 
 Dish up and surround with finely shredded 
 seasoned salad. 
 
 Fried Eggs a la Creole. 
 
 Cook enough rice (about three to four 
 ounces) in rich white stock to fill a good- 
 sized border mould. Before moulding, 
 mix it with half an ounce of grated cheese 
 and one ounce of chopped ham, and season 
 to taste. With this fill a buttered border 
 mould and place it in the oven to keep hot. 
 
 Heat up half a pint of olive oil in a 
 small shallow pan, drop in five or six 
 eggs, frying only one at a time ; great 
 
66 HOW TO COOK 
 
 care must be taken that the yolk of egg 
 is kept well coated with the white part, 
 in fact each egg should be just like a 
 poached egg, only that it is cooked in hot 
 oil, instead of water. As the eggs are 
 fried drain them carefully and trim nicely, 
 then place them in the centre of the rice 
 border, which must be turned out on a hot 
 dish. Pour over the rice some nicely sea- 
 soned hot tomato sauce, and serve. 
 
 Eggs in Parsley Sauce. 
 
 {(Eufs a la Poulette.) 
 
 Boil six new-laid eggs for just five 
 minutes, and shell them carefully ; cut off 
 one end of each and range the eggs on a 
 hot dish. Pour over a nicely seasoned 
 parsley sauce — ^that is, bechamel or other 
 good white sauce, with finely chopped 
 parsley and a little lemon juice — ^and serve. 
 
 Egg Pie. 
 
 {Pate aux CEufs.) 
 
 Shell five hard-boiled eggs and cut them 
 into slices not too thin. Mash a pound of 
 cooked mealy potatoes and mix with an 
 ounce of butter, and a little cream. Sea- 
 son well with salt, pepper, and very little 
 nutmeg. With this line the bottom of 
 a buttered pie dish and place in a layer 
 of sliced eggs. Scatter over some chopped 
 parsley and cover with a little white sauce. 
 Continue this till the eggs are used up. 
 Let the last layer be a coating of sauce, 
 and cover the top with mashed potatoes, 
 smooth this over carefully with a wetted 
 knife and mark a neat pattern on top with 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 67 
 
 the point of a knife or a fork ; brush over 
 with beaten egg and bake in a moderately- 
 heated oven for about half an hour. 
 
 Salmon Eggs. 
 
 {(Eufs au Saumon.) 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs and place 
 them in cold water. Flake half a pound 
 of cooked salmon, freed from skin and 
 bones, then chop it, not too finely. Melt 
 half an ounce of butter in a stew-pan, stir 
 in half an ounce of flour, and let it cook 
 for a few seconds ; moisten with half 'a 
 gill of fish stock, and stir till it boils and 
 thickens. Cook whilst stirring for a few 
 minutes longer, then add the chopped 
 salmon ; mix thoroughly with half a 
 beaten egg ; season to taste with salt, 
 pepper, and a grate of nutmeg. When 
 thoroughly hot put the mixture on to a 
 cold plate and set to cool. 
 
 Divide the mixture into four even-sized 
 portions, flatten out each portion and wrap 
 it round each egg ; this must be done 
 very neatly. Brush over the eggs with 
 beaten egg, and roll in breadcrumbs, then 
 fry in hot fat to a golden brown. Take 
 them up and drain ; cut each egg in half 
 crossways and dish up on croutons of 
 fried bread. Put a tiny pinch of chopped 
 parsley in the centre of each yolk and gar- 
 nish the dish with fried parsley and thin 
 slices of lemon. 
 
 Lobster Eggs. 
 
 {(Eufs a I'Homard.) 
 Proceed the same as directed in the fore- 
 going recipe, but use lobster in place of 
 salmon, or, if preferred, take half lobster 
 and half salmon. 
 
68 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Spanish Eggs. 
 
 {CEufs a VEspagnole.) 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Four hard-boiled eggs, four ounces of 
 tongue, a few capers and gherkins, lemon 
 juice, parsley, three Spanish olives, two 
 anchovy fillets, a few drops of salad oil, 
 toasted buttered bread. 
 
 Cut the eggs in halves across, take out 
 the yolks and rub through a sieve. Cut 
 off a small piece of the tips of the whites 
 to make them stand even. Chop half the 
 tongue rather finely, and mix with half the 
 yolks of eggs. Stamp out six nice rounds 
 of buttered toast about the size of the 
 cut side of the eggs. Sprinkle over thickly 
 with tongue and yolks. Cut the remainder 
 of tongue, and gherkins, olives, and an- 
 chovies, into fine shreds ; mix gently 
 with a few drops of oil and lemon juice ; 
 add a little chopped parsley and the capers, 
 also a pinch of white or red pepper, which- 
 ever is preferred. . Fill up the cups of 
 white of egg, fill up rather high but loosely. 
 Stand each on a round piece of prepared 
 toast, dish up, garnish, and serve as cold 
 savoury or breakfast dish. 
 
 Anchovy Eggs (Cold). 
 
 (CEufs a VAnchois.) 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Four hard-boiled eggs, one teaspoonful of 
 chopped parsley, one table-spoonful an- 
 chovy essence or paste, two ounces of 
 butter, pepper, small cress for garnish. 
 
 Remove the shells from the eggs, cut 
 them in halves and take out the yolks. 
 Put the yolks in a mortar, add the butter 
 and anchovy essence or paste, pound well. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 69 
 
 season with a little pepper, mix with the 
 chopped parsley, and fill the eggs with this. 
 Cut off the tips so as to make them stand, 
 arrange them neatly on a dish, surround 
 with small cress or other small salad, and 
 serve. 
 
 Sardine Eggs. 
 
 {CEufs a la Sardine.) 
 
 Proceed in the same manner as de- 
 scribed in the foregoing recipe, but use 
 boneless sardines or sardine paste in place 
 of anchovies or anchovy paste. 
 
 Tomato Eggs. 
 
 {CEufs a la Tomate.) 
 Boil four eggs till very hard, then place 
 (n cold water, and remove the shells. Cut 
 each egg in half, and spread the cut side 
 with anchovy paste. Butter a fireproof 
 china dish, range the eggs on the dishj 
 cut side down, on slices of tomato. Pour 
 over enough tomato sauce to cover the 
 eggs completely, and sprinkle over with 
 well-seasoned breadcrumbs. Cook in a 
 hot oven for eight minutes, and serve im- 
 mediately. 
 
 Scotch Eggs. 
 
 (CEufs a VEcossaise.) 
 
 Boil four eggs for ten minutes, cool and 
 shell them. Skin one pound of pork 
 sausages, and mix with one yolk of egg. 
 Dip each hard-boiled egg in flour, then 
 coat each over with a thin layer of the 
 sausage meat. Beat up a raw egg on a 
 plate, brush over the covered hard-boiled 
 eggs, then roll them in breadcrumbs and 
 fry them in hot* fat to a golden brown. 
 
70 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Drain them on paper or a cloth. Cut each 
 neatly in half crossways. Dish up on 
 rounds of fried or toasted bread, and gar- 
 nish with fried parsley. Serve hot with 
 tomato sauce, or cold with mayonnaise 
 sauce. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs with Prawns. 
 
 (CEufs fargis aux Crevettes.) 
 Take four hard-boiled eggs, twelve large 
 or eighteen small prawns, three Gorgona 
 anchovies, one and a half ounces of butter, 
 one table-spoonful bechamel sauce. 
 
 Remove the shell from the eggs, cut 
 them in halves crosswise, scoop out the 
 yolks and put them in a mortar, add the 
 boned anchovies and picked prawns, and 
 pound very fine. Rub all through a wire 
 sieve ; return to the mortar, add the 
 butter and bechamel sauce, mix thoroughly, 
 and season to taste. Fill up the hard- 
 boiled whites of egg, place a prawn-head 
 in the centre of each, sprinkle the surface 
 with a little grated Parmesan cheese ; 
 put them on a buttered dish or saute-pan, 
 and bake in a hot oven for about five 
 minutes. Dish up neatly, sauce round 
 with hot tomato sauce, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Camot. 
 
 Trim neatly some artichoke bottoms of 
 a nice white colour, cut the edges into a 
 fancy border, and keep warm in some dis- 
 solved meat glaze and stock. Have ready 
 some rather rich chicken puree, and blend it 
 over the fire with a little fresh butter. 
 Poach a new-laid egg for each fond, put 
 a table-spoonful of chicken puree in the 
 fond, trim the eggs nicely, place on top, 
 dish up, sauce over with gravy, and serve. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 71 
 
 Eggs a la Rossini. 
 
 Butter a large fireproof gratin-dish, and 
 break into it six fresh eggs, season with 
 salt and pepper and put a tiny piece of 
 butter on each egg. Place the dish in the 
 oven and cook till the eggs are barely set. 
 
 Toss some finely sliced chicken liver in 
 a little butter, season with salt and pepper 
 and add a piece of foie-gras pate, cut into 
 small slices, moisten with a little truffle 
 sauce, and dish up. Cut out by means of a 
 paste cutter the baked eggs, place them 
 neatly on top of the Uver, return to the 
 oven for a few seconds and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Meyerbeer. 
 
 Fry or bake the required number of eggs 
 as directed for " Eggs sur plat." Slice 
 some sheep's kidney, season with salt and 
 pepper, and toss in butter previously 
 blended with two or three finely chopped 
 shallots. Moisten with a little Mad^re 
 sauce. Arrange the kidneys as a border 
 on a hot dish, and place the fried eggs in 
 the centre of the dish. Serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Mirelle. 
 
 Fry some freshly laid eggs in deep olive 
 oil (shaped like poached eggs), drain care- 
 fully, and trim them neatly. Spread some 
 oval-shaped fried bread croutes spread over 
 with a layer of cooked savoury rice flavoured 
 with saffron, and place an egg on each. 
 Dish up neatly, and garnish with a border 
 of chopped peeled tomatoes previously 
 tossed in butter. Serve hot. 
 
72 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Eggs a la Ni9oise (Cold). 
 
 Poach some new laid eggs in acidulated 
 water, drain and trim each carefully. When 
 cold, mask them with pink chaud-froid 
 sauce, then decorate the surface of each 
 neatly with tarragon leaves. Arrange a 
 well-seasoned vegetable salad in a shallow 
 dish, range the eggs neatly on this, and 
 serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Marie-Louise. 
 
 Poach six small fresh eggs as directed 
 on p. 16. Range them in an entree dish 
 and sauce over with Madere sauce. Have 
 ready some finely shredded ox-tongue, 
 truffles and preserved mushrooms, heat 
 them up first, and sprinkle over the eggs 
 just before serving. 
 
 Egg Croutes with Game. 
 
 {Croutes aux oeufs poches a la Chasseur.) 
 Get ready the following ingredients : 
 Six fresh eggs, a loaf of stale bread, six 
 ounces cooked game, one shallot, half an 
 ounce of butter, six preserved mushrooms, 
 three table-spoonfuls brown sauce (Espag- 
 nole or Madeira), pepper and salt, frying 
 fat, parsley. 
 
 Prepare some oval croutes of bread, the 
 size of an egg, 2 in. by IJin., and about an 
 inch in thickness. Fry these in hot fat 
 a pale brown ; drain and scoop out the 
 centre of each croute so as to form cases 
 (this must be done whUe the croutes are 
 hot). Pound the game in a mortar, add 
 the shallot, chopped finely and blended in 
 a little butter, the mushrooms, previously 
 chopped, when smooth add the brown 
 sauce. Season to taste and rub the whole 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 73 
 
 through a wire sieve. Keep the puree 
 hot until required. 
 
 Meanwhile poach the eggs very care- 
 fully in slightly salted water containing a 
 few drops of lemon juice or vinegar. Fill 
 the cavities of the croutes with the pre- 
 pared puree, trim the eggs to an oval 
 shape, and place one on each of the croutes. 
 Dish up on a hot dish, with a folded nap- 
 kin, put a tiny pinch of Paprika pepper 
 on the centre of each egg, garnish the 
 dish with sprigs of fresh parsley, and 
 serve. 
 
 Egg Pyramid a la Reforme. 
 
 These are stuffed halves of hard-boiled 
 eggs, dished up in a pyramidal form, sprin- 
 kled over with finely shredded ham and 
 truffles. Sauce over with a rich brown 
 sauce, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Eggs a la Garfield. 
 
 These are very similar to Scotch eggs, 
 p. 69. Take some hard-boiled eggs, re- 
 move the shells, and cover them with a layer 
 of chicken farce or sausage meat, egg and 
 crumb them with crushed vermicelli, fry 
 in deep fat or clarified butter, and serve 
 with piquante sauce. 
 
 Eggs a la Messina. 
 
 Toss in fresh butter as many small arti- 
 choke bottoms (preserved) as may be re- 
 quired, and drain them. Poach carefully 
 the same number of eggs, and trim them. 
 Range the artichoke bottoms in the form 
 of a border on a round dish, and place 
 a poached egg in each. Mask the whole 
 
74 HOW TO COOK 
 
 with a well-reduced Bordelaise sauce, put 
 a thin slice of cooked beef marrow and a 
 slice of truffle in the centre of each egg. 
 Sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve 
 hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Piemontaise. 
 
 Cook four ounces of Italian rice in rich 
 stock, and add enough tomato sauce to 
 colour the rice, then put in two table- 
 spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese and 
 two slices of fried bacon, cut into small 
 strips. Season to taste and reduce to a 
 puree firm enough to shape. Fry in clari- 
 fied butter six or seven fresh eggs, trim 
 each neatly or stamp out with a round 
 paste cutter. Put the rice in a greased 
 flat mould, and turn out on a hot dish. 
 Place the fried eggs in a circle round the 
 edge of the rice shape, put a tiny pinch 
 of black pepper in the centre of each yolk 
 of egg, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a ritalienne. 
 
 Cook some rice as directed in the pre- 
 ceding recipe ; when ready add to it four 
 to six chicken livers, previously cleaned 
 and drained and tossed in butter. Make 
 a border of this and turn it out on a hot 
 dish. Fill the centre with scrambled eggs, 
 as directed in recipe on p.23, pour a little 
 tomato sauce over and round the rice 
 border, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Polonaise. 
 
 Fry a teacupful of small dice of bread 
 in clarified butter; when of a pale brown 
 colour take up and drain them. Beat up 
 six eggs in a basin, add to it a teaspoonful 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 75 
 
 of finely chopped parsley and chives, a 
 table-spoonful of cream, and season with 
 salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and pour 
 into a small stew-pan containing two 
 table-spoonfuls of clarified butter; add, 
 also, the fried bread croutons. Stir over 
 the fire till the mixture is thick enough 
 to spread. Drop it by means of a spoon 
 into hot clarified butter, and fry nicely. 
 Take up, drain, and dish up. Serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Poulette. 
 
 Shell some soft boiled eggs whilst still 
 warm. Have ready some oval-shaped fried 
 bread croutons, spread over one side of 
 each with a little well-reduced cream sauce, 
 place the eggs on these. Dish up, sauce 
 over with hot Supreme sauce, then sprinkle 
 over a little finely chopped chervil, tarragon 
 and parsley, and serve hot. 
 
 Egg and Tomato Ramakins. 
 
 Butter the inside of six small china rama- 
 kin cases, sprinkle the bottom of each with 
 chopped ham and parsley. Break an egg 
 into each ramakin case. Place them in 
 a saute-pan half filled with boiling water, 
 cover with buttered paper, and steam in 
 the oven for about five minutes, or until the 
 eggs are set. Cut three ripe and peeled toma- 
 toes in halves, season, and put them in 
 a saute-pan in a hot oven ; put a very small 
 piece of butter on each and cook tUl they 
 are tender. Lay half a tomato on a round 
 of buttered toast, and unmould the egg 
 ramakins on to the tomatoes. Arrange 
 these neatly on a hot dish with six slices 
 of fried bacon round the tomatoes, and 
 serve. 
 
76 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Eggs a la Marie. 
 
 Prepare six poached eggs, drained and 
 cut out with an oval cutter ; place them 
 on oval croutes of fried bread, dish up, 
 and besprinkle the eggs with finely shredded 
 ox- tongue, mixed with fine shreds of black 
 trufHe. Pour a little Mad^re sauce round 
 the base of the dish, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Lucullus. 
 
 Cut three hard-boiled eggs into quarter- 
 inch slices, crossways, and spread them 
 over with a thin layer of " Lucullus " 
 puree. Upon the paste place a round 
 of cooked ham or bacon, cut thinly and 
 of the same size as the eggs ; next dip 
 the prepared slices (sandwiched together 
 as directed) into a light frying batter ; 
 drop them into hot fat or clarified butter, 
 and fry to a nice golden brown. Drain, 
 dish up, garnish with fried parsley, and 
 serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Chiffonade. 
 
 Boil up a quart of seasoned water, con- 
 taining a little lemon juice, in a stew- 
 pan, and poach in it six fresh eggs ; pour 
 off the water, then take a whisk and beat 
 up the eggs lightly ; next pour in about 
 half a pint of nicely seasoned tomato 
 sauce and half an ounce of fresh butter. 
 Stir this over the fire till thoroughly heated. 
 Have ready on a hot dish a border of 
 cooked and seasoned rice, put the egg mix- 
 ture in the centre, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Reine Margot. 
 
 Proceed the same as directed for Scram 
 bled Eggs, adding to the mixture a little 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS Tj 
 
 well-reduced Veloute sauce, also some 
 chopped truffle, some chopped cooked 
 chicken breast, and finely chopped parsley. 
 Dish up on neatly cut slices of toasted and 
 buttered bread, and serve hot. 
 
 Eggs a la Reine. 
 
 Prepare and fry six rounds of croutons 
 of bread about 2| in. in diameter and \ in. 
 thick. Spread one side rather thickly 
 with a light chicken farce, previously 
 poached and cut to the required size. Upon 
 these place six nicely trimmed poached 
 eggs. Dish up, pour some rich cream sauce 
 round the base of the dish, and besprinkle 
 the eggs with a little chopped truffle, then 
 serve. 
 
 For cream sauce use either supreme, 
 veloute or bechamel enriched with cream. 
 
 Fried Eggs a la Romaine. 
 
 Fry the required number of eggs in hot 
 olive oil or best nut oil, drain and trim 
 each, and range neatly on a dish containing 
 a bed of spinach cooked whole (not chopped 
 up), previously seasoned and tossed in a 
 little butter. Garnish the dish with thinly 
 cut slices of Salami sausage and slices of 
 cooked ham. Pour a little gravy round 
 the base of the dish, and serve. 
 
 Fried Eggs on Rice Croutes. 
 
 (CEufs frits sur croMes de Riz.) 
 Wash four ounces of Patna rice and 
 cook it in seasoned stock till tender. It 
 must be reduced to a fairly firm texture 
 and seasoned rather liberally with Paprika. 
 Spread it on a greased dish and set to 
 
78 HOW TO COOK 
 
 cool. Stamp out six rounds by means of 
 a paste cutter, then egg and crumb them 
 and fry the rounds of rice in clarified 
 butter. 
 
 Melt half an ounce of butter in a fry- 
 ing or large omelet pan, break in six fresh 
 eggs, season with salt and pepper, and 
 fry till just set, then cut out the eggs with 
 a paste cutter and place each on the pre- 
 pared croutes. Dish up, garnish with 
 parsley, and serve. The rice croutes can 
 be baked crisp in the oven if Uked. 
 
 Egg Fritters a la Royale. 
 
 Break six fresh eggs into a basin, sea- 
 son with salt and pepper, and stir in two 
 table-spoonfuls of cream. Beat up to mix 
 yolks and whites of eggs thoroughly, then 
 strain into a weU-buttered flat tin mould. 
 Put this in a saute-pan containing a little 
 water and cook in the oven for about 
 fifteen minutes or till the custard is set. 
 When done and cooled, unmould the shape 
 and cut it into | in. thick strips 2J in. long. 
 Have ready a light frying batter ; dip 
 the egg strips in this and fry in hot fat 
 to a delicate brown colour. Drain, dish 
 up, and serve with spinach or other suit- 
 able vegetables as garnish, or separately. 
 
 Eggs a la Hussard. 
 
 This dish consists of rounds of fried bread 
 spread over on one side with pounded ham 
 and mushrooms, with a slice of tomato on 
 top. Place a poached egg on top of each, 
 coat well with HoUandaise sauce. Dish up 
 neatly and serve hot. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 79 
 
 Eggs a la Maire. 
 
 These are poached eggs trimmed and 
 dressed on rounds of fried or toasted bread, 
 garnished with finely shredded ox-tongue, 
 ham, and truffles. Dish up and sauce over 
 with hot Mad^re sauce. 
 
 Eggs a la Montpensier. 
 
 Poach five or six new-laid eggs, trim 
 neatly and dress them on fried bread 
 croutons previously spread over with foie- 
 gras puree. Dish up and garnish the centre 
 with green peas and truffles. 
 
 Eggs a la Neige. 
 
 Whisk four whites of eggs to a stiff 
 froth, season with salt and pepper, and 
 steam in small buttered moulds. Unmould 
 the shapes and dish them up neatly. Serve 
 with hot cream sauce. 
 
 Eggs a la Norfolk. 
 
 These are halves of hard-boiled eggs, 
 egged, crumbed, fried in butter, and served 
 with piquant sauce. 
 
 Eggs en Matelote. 
 
 Peel and slice thinly two small onions 
 and fry a delicate brown in one ounce of 
 butter, then drain and add a glass of 
 claret and a gill of brown herb sauce ; re- 
 duce the whole and keep hot. Poach six 
 eggs as directed on p. 16. Dish up the 
 eggs on croutes of fried bread or rounds 
 of toast, previously spread with anchovy 
 paste. Pour over the prepared sauce, and 
 
8o HOW TO COOK 
 
 garnish the dish with curled up anchovy 
 fillets and turned olives, previously heated 
 in a little stock. Serve hoi. 
 
 Eggs in Puff Pastry. 
 
 (CEufs en Feuilletage.) 
 Get ready the following materials : — 
 Five hard-boiled eggs, half a pound of 
 puff-paste, one raw egg, pepper and salt, 
 breadcrumbs, clarified butter or lard for 
 frying. 
 
 Remove the shells from the eggs, mix 
 a little white pepper with some fine dry 
 salt, roll four eggs in this. Roll out the 
 puff-paste about one-eighth of an inch 
 thick, wrap up each egg in the paste, 
 brush the edges of the paste so as to close 
 the ends securely, egg and breadcrumb 
 over twice, place them in a wire basket, 
 and fry in hot butter or lard a nice light 
 brown (this must be done very carefully 
 to ensure the paste getting done through). 
 Cut some rings about a quarter of an 
 inch thick of the remaining hard-boiled 
 egg. Take out the yolk, put each fried 
 egg on a ring so that they may stand up- 
 right ; dish up in a circle on a folded 
 napkin ; fry a handful of picked, washed, 
 and dried parsley, put this in the centre of 
 the dish, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Chipolata. 
 
 Prepare and fry six oval croutes of 
 bread, hollowed out in the form of an egg. 
 Boil for five or six minutes six fresh eggs, 
 then plunge them in cold water for a 
 second and remove the shell very carefully. 
 Brush over the croute of bread with Uquid 
 meat glaze or Lemco, and place on each a 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 8i 
 
 boiled egg. Dish up, surround the egg with 
 groups of bread and glazed button onions, 
 slice-shaped pieces of fried bacon, small 
 fried potato balls (pommes parisienne), 
 glazed young carrots and small glazed 
 chestnuts. These must be heated up in 
 Mad^re sauce. Pour over enough of the 
 said sauce to coat the eggs, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Tripe. 
 
 Make a rich onion sauce, and add a 
 gill of cream. Boil four to six eggs hard, 
 shell them and cut up in slices, heat these 
 up in the sauce. Dish up, and sprinkle 
 with finely chopped parsley. 
 
 Eggs au Gratin. 
 
 Butter a fireproof baking or gratin dish 
 and spread over a table-spoonful of cold 
 bechamel sauce. Cut into fairly thick 
 slices six hard-boiled eggs, and range 
 them on the dish, spreading bechamel 
 sauce and grated cheese between the 
 layers of egg. Season each layer with salt 
 and pepper, and coat the top completely 
 with white sauce. Sprinkle over soft 
 breadcrumbs, grated cheese, Gruy^re or 
 Parmesan, and place a few tiny bits of 
 butter here and there. Bake in a hot 
 oven for about fifteen minutes, then serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Waldimir. 
 
 Break four new-laid eggs in a well- 
 buttered fireproof dish, sprinkle over with 
 chopped truffles and asparagus points, 
 seasoned, strewn with grated Parmesan 
 cheese, slightly browned in the oven, then 
 send to table. 
 
82 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Cheese Eggs. 
 
 (CEufs au Fromage.) 
 Beat up four eggs in a basin, and add 
 to it two ounces of grated cheddar cheese. 
 Season with salt and pepper. Pour this 
 into a saucepan containing half an ounce 
 of butter, and stir continually over the fire 
 till the mixture begins to set, and looks 
 like scrambled eggs. Have ready some 
 slices of buttered toast, placed on a hot 
 dish, pour or spread the egg mixture over, 
 and send to table. 
 
 Gniyere Eggs. 
 
 {CEufs d la Gruyere.) 
 Cut half a pound of Gruyere cheese into 
 thin slices and line with it a buttered 
 shallow dish. Break over it carefully five 
 or six eggs ; season with salt and pepper. 
 Add two or three table-spoonfuls of cream, 
 and cover with the remainder of slices of 
 cheese, grated or finely chopped. Strew 
 over some breadcrumbs, and place a few 
 tiny pieces of butter here and there on 
 top. Bake in a quick oven for about ten 
 minutes and serve hot. 
 
 Eggs with Melted Cheese. 
 
 (CEufs au beurre fondu.) 
 Cut two ounces of Gruyere cheese into 
 small pieces or slices, put these in a sauce- 
 pan with half an ounce of butter and half 
 a glass of chablis or sauterne wine ; sea- 
 son with salt, pepper, and a pinch of 
 Krona seasoning. Stir ovet the fire tiU 
 melted, then pour into a buttered fu"e proof 
 dish. Break in carefully five or six fresh 
 eggs (new laid if possible), season to taste, 
 and put a tiny bit of butter on each. Put 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 83 
 
 the dish carefully into a hot oven and 
 bake till the eggs are set, then serve. 
 
 Eggs in Shells. 
 
 {CEufs en Coquilles.) 
 
 Butter eight small scallop shells, and 
 besprinkle with finely chopped ham or 
 breadcrumbs ; put a table-spoonful of 
 white sauce in each and place in slices 
 of hard-boiled eggs ; season with salt 
 and pepper, and cover with finely chopped 
 ham. Mask the top with white sauce, and 
 sprinkle over breadcrumbs and grated 
 cheese ; also a few drops of oiled butter, 
 and bake in a fairly hot oven for about 
 ten minutes. Dish up, garnish with crisp 
 parsley, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Lyoimaise. 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Five hard-boiled eggs, six preserved mush- 
 rooms, one small onion, one teaspoonful 
 of flour, half an ounce anchovy paste, 
 one ounce butter, half a giU of brown 
 stock, one dessert-spoonful of Worcester 
 sauce, toasted bread, pepper and salt. 
 
 Peel the eggs, take out the yolks whole, 
 cut the white part into strips julienne 
 fashion, cut the mushrooms in the same 
 way, peel and slice the onion finely, melt 
 half an ounce of butter in a stew-pan, fry 
 the onion a nice light brown, add the 
 white of egg and mushroom, toss (shake) 
 them for a few seconds over the fire, 
 sprinkle them with flour, and add the 
 stock and Worcester sauce ; season with 
 pepper and salt, and let the whole simmer 
 for about two minutes ; place the yolks 
 carefully on top, so as to get warm. Have 
 
84 HOW TO COOK 
 
 ready some nice sippets bi toast, spread 
 them on one side with the anchovy paste, 
 mixed with the remainder of the butter, 
 put the white of egg, mushrooms and 
 onion upon them, arrange the yolks in 
 the centre, pour the rest of the ragout 
 round the yolks, garnish with a few sprigs 
 of parsley, and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Soubise. 
 
 Peel and slice three medium-sized onions, 
 blanch and drain them, then cook in mUk 
 till tender, and pass through a fine sieve. 
 Reduce this with sufficient white sauce, 
 (bechamel) to produce a puree of moderate 
 consistency ; add lastly a table-spoonful 
 of cream, salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful 
 of castor sugar. Poach carefully six new- 
 laid eggs, drain and trim them, and 
 place them on rounds of toast, previously 
 spread thickly with the soubise or onion 
 puree. Dish up and serve hot. 
 
 Devilled Eggs. 
 
 {CEufs a la Diable.) 
 
 Put half a gill of rich brown sauce into 
 a stew-pan, or saute-pan, and add two 
 table-spoonfuls of Worcester sauce, a 
 table-spoonful of Harvey sauce, half a 
 teaspoonful of red currant jelly, a tea- 
 spoonful of curry or mulligatawny paste, 
 a table-spoonful of sharp chutney, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of chilli vinegar. Reduce 
 this to about half its original quantity ; 
 season liberally with pepper, cayenne, 
 or Paprika, strain and return to the pan. 
 Place in it six poached eggs, or the same 
 quantity of hard-boiled eggs cut into 
 thick slices, heat up carefully, then dish 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 85 
 
 up, pour the sauce over the eggs, garnish 
 the dish with sippets of toasted bread, 
 and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Princesse. 
 
 Remove the shells from five hard-boiled 
 eggs, and keep them hot in seasoned milk 
 or white stock. Cut into dice half a cold 
 boiled or roast fowl, freed from skin and 
 bones. Heat this up in half a gill of 
 bechamel or other good white sauce, then 
 add five or six table-spoonfuls of cooked 
 asparagus points, previously drained ; sea- 
 son to taste with salt, pepper and a grate 
 of nutmeg, and keep hot. Cut some slices 
 of cooked ox-tongue into rounds the size 
 of an egg, heat these up in a little stock or 
 gravy. Now put the prepared puree 
 (salpicon) on a round dish, range the 
 rounds of tongue neatly on top, cut the 
 eggs in halves and place one on each round 
 of tongue. Chop the trimmings of the 
 tongue finely and sprinkle this neatly over 
 the eggs or around them. Serve hot. 
 
 Eggs au beurre noir. 
 
 Poach carefully six fresh eggs as directed 
 on p. 16. Drain and trim them neatly 
 and place on a hot dish. Melt an ounce 
 of butter in a frying-pan ; when hot and 
 of a nut-brown colour add a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of tarragon vinegar, and a heaped-up 
 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley. 
 Poiur this over the eggs, and serve. 
 
 Eggs with Nut-brown Butter. 
 
 {CEufs au beurre noisette.) 
 Melt half an ounce of butter in a fireproof 
 dish, break four to five eggs into it, place 
 
86 HOW TO COOK 
 
 in a hot oven for about five minutes. Then 
 pour over hall an ounce of butter cooked 
 to a nut-brown colour with a dash of 
 tarragon or chilli vinegar. Sprinkle with 
 a few fried breadcrumbs and send to 
 table. 
 
 Egg Darioles. 
 
 {Darioles d'CEufs.) 
 
 Butter six to eight small dariole moulds, 
 chop finely two small truffles, a slice of 
 cooked ham, and a slice of cooked tongue. 
 Mix these on a plate and besprinkle with it 
 the inside of the moulds so as to com- 
 pletely coat them. Break an egg into each 
 and add the necessary seasoning of salt, 
 pepper and Paprika ; on top of each egg 
 put a very small piece of butter. Next 
 place the moulds in a saute or braising 
 pan half filled with boiling water ; cover 
 the pan with its lid and poach in the oven 
 for about six minutes, by which time the 
 eggs should be set. Turn out the moulds 
 on little rounds of toast ; dish up and 
 pour over sufficient brown sauce, demi- 
 glace, or Madere to well coat the egg shapes. 
 Serve hot. 
 
 Egg Timbales with Anchovies 
 (Cold). 
 
 (Timbales d'CEufs d VAnchois.) 
 Mask the inside of six small timbale 
 moulds with a thin coating of semi-liquid 
 aspic jelly. Shell five hard-boiled eggs, and 
 cut them into slices of even thickness. 
 Mix about half an ounce of anchovy paste 
 with a dessert-spoonful of Oxo, and a little 
 aspic just enough to spread, then spread a 
 little of this mixture on both sides of each of 
 the slices of egg. Put a spray of chervil 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 87 
 
 in each timbale, upon this put a slice 
 of egg, then a layer of aspic, next an 
 anchovy fillet, and continue thus till the 
 timbales are filled ; the last layer should 
 be of aspic. Put the moulds on crushed ice 
 to set. To serve, turn out the shapes 
 and place neatly on to a cold dish. Gar- 
 nish with little sprigs of endive or lettuce, 
 and send to table. 
 
 Savoury Eggs and Tomatoes. 
 
 Peel and slice six small ripe tomatoes ; 
 fry in a saute or stew-pan one minced 
 shallot in one ounce of butter, and add the 
 tomatoes. Season with pepper and salt 
 and cook for twenty minutes, then strain. 
 Reheat it, and when boiling stir in three 
 beaten eggs, add also one ounce of shredded 
 ham or tongue ; cook whilst stirring 
 over the fire till the eggs begin to set. 
 Then serve on a hot dish. 
 
 Egg Rarebit. 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs and slice 
 them lengthways. Range them in a but- 
 tered gratin dish in layers with grated 
 cheese and seasoning between the layers. 
 Cover the top well with grated cheese, 
 and place a few tiny bits of butter over the 
 cheese. Brown in a hot oven and serve at 
 once. 
 
 Eggs en Cocottes. 
 
 Butter six or eight fireproof china cases 
 or cocotte cups, put a table-spoonful of 
 cream in each, then break in carefully a 
 new-laid egg. Season with salt and pepper, 
 and a tiny pinch of Paprika or Krona 
 pepper. Place the cups in a saute-pan 
 
88 HOW TO COOK 
 
 containing a little water, cover with a 
 buttered paper and cook the eggs in the 
 oven till they are just set. Dish up and 
 serve quickly. 
 
 Steamed Eggs a la Bechamel. 
 
 {(Eufs mollets a la Bechamel.) 
 
 Boil six new-laid eggs in water for five 
 minutes. Shell them and place them on 
 croutons of fried bread ; pour some rich 
 bechamel sauce (p. 129) over them. Dish 
 up carefully and serve. 
 
 Egg Ragout a la Fran9aise. 
 
 Slices of hard-boiled eggs, with sliced 
 truffles and morels or mushrooms, stewed 
 in brown sauce flavoured with red wine. 
 
 Eggs a la Madame. 
 
 Take six to eight eggs, a little butter, 
 one table-spoonful finely chopped parsley, 
 six to eight dessert-spoonfuls of cream. 
 
 Butter six to eight small fireproof pip- 
 kin pans or ramakin cases, and sprinMe 
 with chopped parsley. Break an egg care- 
 fully into each, and add a dessert -spoonful 
 of cream. Bake slowly till set. Send to 
 table in the pans or cases, or turn them out 
 and dish up. 
 
 Eggs a la Boston. 
 
 Take six eggs, one and a half ounces of 
 butter, half a large onion, one teaspoon- 
 ful of flour, one gill of milk or cream, two 
 ounces chopped cooked ham, half a gill 
 of Mad^re or other rich brown sauce. 
 
 Peel and slice the onion and fry it in 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 89 
 
 an ounce of butter to a golden colour, 
 sprinkle in the flour, and stir long enough 
 to cook the flour. Moisten with the milk 
 or cream, season with a pinch of salt and 
 half a pinch each of pepper and nutmeg. 
 Separate the yolks from the whites of eggs 
 and put the yolks with the onion, etc., 
 stir well and add one ounce of chopped 
 ham. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff 
 froth and mix carefully with the above. 
 Butter a round baking-tin or gratin-dish, 
 dress the mixture neatly on it, sprinkle the 
 top with chopped ham, bake in a hot oven 
 for fifteen minutes ; when done, place it 
 on a hot dish, and serve with Mad^re or 
 other good brown sauce. 
 
 Egg Jumbles. 
 
 Break four fresh eggs into a basin and 
 whisk them lightly, then add an ounce of 
 finely chopped cooked ham or tongue and 
 a good pinch of mixed savoury herbs, also 
 a teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley ; 
 then beat up the mixture and season with 
 very Uttle salt and pepper. Have ready 
 three or four slices of toasted bread, cut 
 them to size and butter them. Melt three- 
 quarters of an ounce of butter in a sauce- 
 pan, put in the egg mixture and stir it 
 over the fire till just setting ; then spread 
 it on the prepared toast and serve hot. 
 
 Egg Tartlets. 
 
 {Tartlettes mix CEufs.) 
 Line eight to ten tartlet moulds with 
 trimmings of puff-paste. Prick the paste 
 with a fork, fill with uncooked rice or 
 dried peas, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 Remove contents of tartlets and place 
 
go HOW TO COOK 
 
 crusts on sieve to cool. Next poach as 
 many eggs as there are tartlet crusts, trim 
 each egg very neatly as near as possible 
 to the shape of the tartlets. Have ready 
 some HoUandaise sauce, into this incor- 
 porate a table-spoonful of spinach puree, 
 some finely chopped tarragon and chervil. 
 Place each egg into a tartlet crust, and 
 sauce over carefully with the above sauce. 
 Reheat in a sharp oven just a few moments. 
 Dish up quickly and serve hot. A tiny 
 pinch of Paprika or Krona pepper seasoning 
 put in the centre of the tartlets will im- 
 prove the dish. 
 
 Caviare Eggs (Cold). 
 
 (OEufs au Caviar.) 
 Cut three or four hard-boiled eggs into 
 slices about a quarter of an inch thick. 
 Remove the yolk and place each ring of 
 white of egg on a round of buttered toast 
 about the size of the egg. Fill the cavity 
 with Russian, Hygienic or Astrachan 
 caviare forced through a bag with a plain 
 tube. Dish up, and garnish with sUces of 
 lemon and parsley. 
 
 Mayonnaise of Eggs. 
 
 Boil five fresh eggs till hard, shell them 
 and cut each in half lengthways ; remove 
 the yolks and mix with a Uttle mayonnaise 
 sauce ; season and refill the halves of 
 eggs. Place them on a wire tray and coat 
 them with mayonnaise sauce, previously 
 mixed with a little Uquid aspic. When the 
 eggs are well coated and set range them 
 on a bed of seasoned salad (shredded 
 lettuce or endive) on a dish. Decorate 
 the top of each with tarragon leaves, thinly 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 91 
 
 cut strips of chilli or pimiento and gherkin, 
 and serve. 
 
 Eggs a la Russe (Cold). 
 
 Shell four hard-boiled eggs, and cut 
 each in half lengthways : remove the yolk 
 carefully and cut off a small portion of the 
 whites to make them stand. Fill the 
 cavities of the whites of egg with sea- 
 soned caviare (Hygienic or Astrachan) ; 
 rub some of the yolks through a coarse 
 sieve and cover the filled eggs with it. 
 Place each on a slice of ripe tomato, pre- 
 viously seasoned with salad oil, salt, pepper 
 and vinegar. Dish up on a bed of small 
 cress or other suitable green salad. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs with Ham (Cold). 
 
 {(Eufs fargis au Jambon.) 
 Shell six hard-boiled eggs, cut them in 
 halves crossways, and scoop out the yolks. 
 Chop finely about four ounces of lean cooked 
 ham and pound it with the egg yolks. 
 Season this nicely with very little salt and 
 a good pinch of Paprika pepper, also a 
 grate of nutmeg. Incorporate about two 
 table-spoonfuls of rich cream, and pass 
 the whole through a fine sieve. Fill the 
 hollow parts of the whites of eggs with 
 this puree and place each, cut side down, 
 on oval-shaped slices of ham or tongue 
 which have been previously spread over 
 with the ham puree. Next place each 
 on a neatly-cut oval-shaped slice of toast, 
 these must be a little larger than the eggs. 
 Put the remainder of ham puree in a 
 forcing bag and decorate the sides of the 
 eggs with this, also with fancifully cut 
 slices of gherkins and tomatoes peeled 
 
92 HOW TO COOK 
 
 and cut into strips. Dish up neatly and 
 surround the side of the dish with finely 
 shredded seasoned salad. 
 
 Stuffed Eggs a I'Aurore (Cold). 
 
 Cut four hard-boiled eggs in halves 
 crossways and remove the yolks carefully. 
 Mix the latter with a teaspoonful of tarra- 
 gon vinegar, a little mustard, a table- 
 spoonful of fresh butter and a similar 
 quantity of cream. When weU mixed and 
 seasoned rub this through a fine sieve. 
 Put the mixture into a forcing bag with a 
 rose tube and fill with it the prepared 
 halves and whites of eggs. Surmount each 
 with a star-shaped slice of pimiento. Dish 
 up and garnish the dish with seasoned 
 salad, lettuce, endive, cress, etc. 
 
 Eggs a la Rialto (Cold). 
 
 Remove the shells from four hard-boiled 
 eggs, halve them and remove the yolks ; 
 put these in a mortar and pound with a 
 quarter of a gill of picked shrimps, one 
 teaspoonful of curry paste, and a table- 
 spoonful of mayonnaise sauce. When quite 
 fme rub the puree through a coarse sieve 
 and make up into balls about the size of 
 egg yolks. Cut some rings about half an 
 inch high from the whites of eggs ; place 
 these on a wire tray and put one of the 
 prepared balls in the centre of each. 
 
 Have ready a mayonnaise sauce (p. 128) 
 mixed with a little aspic, coloured with 
 tomato and flavoured with curry paste and 
 mustard. Coat the egg shapes with this 
 twice or three times, until they are com- 
 pletely covered, and keep the tray on the 
 ice till required. Dress them neatly on a 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 93 
 
 round dish on a bed of small cress (sea- 
 soned), surrounded with very small let- 
 luce hearts. Put a star-shaped slice ot 
 pimiento on the centre of each egg shape, 
 and serve. 
 
 Chaud-froid of Eggs (Cold). 
 
 {CEufs en Chaud-froid.) 
 Take six or more new-laid eggs, one 
 and a half gills bechamel sauce (p. 129), 
 half a gill of tomato sauce (p. 130), one 
 gill of aspic jelly (p. 131), quarter of an 
 ounce of leaf gelatine, one large truffle, 
 shces of cooked ox-tongue or ham, salad 
 and dressing. 
 
 Poach the eggs carefully in slightly 
 salted water, containing a little lemon 
 juice ; when set take up and trim and set 
 them on a sieve to cool. Heat up the 
 white sauce ; add to it the gelatine, pre- 
 viously dissolved and strained. Season 
 to taste and mix with a couple of table- 
 spoonfuls of aspic. When nearly cold 
 mask half the number of poached eggs. 
 This must be done twice, allowing the first 
 coating to set before the second one is 
 added. Now heat up the tomato sauce, 
 and mix in an eqtxal quantity of white 
 sauce and some aspic jelly ; when nearly 
 cold mask the remainder of eggs in the 
 same manner. Cut out as many rounds 
 of tongue or ham as there are eggs ; the 
 slices should be as near as possible the size 
 of the eggs. Place one egg on each sUce, 
 mask them over with a thin coating of 
 aspic ; decorate tastefully with fancifully 
 cut slices of truffle. Dish up on a cold 
 dish in the form of a border, fill the centre 
 of the dish with a nicely prepared salad, 
 and serve. 
 
94 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Egg Sandwiches. 
 
 Chop finely two hard-boiled eggs, pre- 
 viously shelled ; mix with it half a tea- 
 spoonful of mustard, half an ounce of 
 fresh butter, and season to taste with salt 
 and pepper. Have ready some thin slices 
 of brown or white bread, thinly buttered, 
 spread the mixture on the buttered side 
 of half the slices. Scatter over some 
 chopped watercress or small cress, and 
 cover with the other slices or bread, and 
 so sandwich them together. Press them 
 lightly, trim oft the crusts and cut into 
 desired shapes. Dish up, garnish with 
 sprigs of fresh parsley or watercress, and 
 serve. 
 
 Egg Sandwiches (another way). 
 
 Cut some thin slices of brown bread, 
 and butter them lightly ; cover half with 
 thinly cut slices of hard-boiled egg ; sea- 
 son with salt and pepper and lay over a 
 Uttle mustard and cress, shredded lettuce, 
 or slices of cucumber. Make up into sand- 
 wiches, trim them and cut them to the 
 required size. Dish up and garnish with 
 parsley or watercress. 
 
 Egg Salad. 
 
 {Salade aux CEufs.) 
 Shell four or five hard-boiled eggs and 
 cut them into slices. Range them in 
 layers in a salad bowl or glass dish, sea- 
 son each layer with salad dressing or 
 mayonnaise (p. 128) and chopped parsley. 
 Cover with a thin layer of mayonnaise, 
 and garnish with stoned olives, anchovy 
 fillets, tiny bunches of watercress or let- 
 tuce hearts, and serve. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 95 
 
 Hot Egg Salad. 
 
 Melt an ounce of butter in an omelet-pan, 
 when hot drop in six fresh eggs, each being 
 first broken into a saucer to ascertain its 
 freshness. Season with salt and pepper. 
 Beat up the eggs with a fork, and stir 
 over the fire until they are set. Put the 
 eggs thus cooked in a hot shallow salad dish, 
 pour over a little nut-brown butter flavoured 
 with vinegar or lemon juice, and sprinkle 
 over with some finely chopped chives, 
 garnish with seasoned lettuce leaves, then 
 serve. 
 
OMELETS. ^ 
 
 To be able to make an omelet to per- 
 fection is said to be an art, and which 
 many admit is better mastered on the Con- 
 tinent than in England. Considering that 
 omelets are classed as highly nourishing, 
 appetising, and quickly made dishes, few 
 things should appeal more strongly to the 
 cook and housewife to master thoroughly 
 than omelets. That essential care and 
 delicacy of manipulation so important to 
 produce a perfect omelet can be mastered 
 by any one, if he or she wiU take sufficient 
 pains to read up carefully the directions 
 given and then set to work and practise 
 the art of omelet making until the desired 
 success is attained. " Practice makes the 
 master " can be very forcibly applied here. 
 
 After two or three trials any one should 
 be able to produce an excellent omelet. 
 There are, of course, many kinds and 
 varieties of omelets — the plain, souffle, 
 stuffed or fouree, savoury vegetable, and 
 the sweet omelets ; but any omelet should 
 as soon as it is cooked be immediately 
 served, for if allowed to stand about before 
 serving, it will inevitably eat tough, in- 
 stead of crisp and yet moist. 
 
 The addition of a very smaU quantity of 
 milk or cream, that is, about a table-spoon- 
 ful of either to four or five eggs, will 
 ensure the omelet keeping moist longer 
 than is the case when neither is added. 
 The added cream certainly increases the 
 96 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 97 
 
 richness of an omelet. Some connoisseurs, 
 however, claim that this addition rather 
 destroys the character of a true French 
 omelet ; this had therefore better be left 
 an open or disputed question. 
 
 The actual process of making a French 
 omelet, plain, savoury or sweet, as one 
 reads the directions seems difficult to 
 lome, but it is infinitely easier than it 
 reads, and if one knows how to make one 
 " omelette," it is an easy matter to intro- 
 duce varieties ad infinitum, because by the 
 addition of certain suitable materials stirred 
 in with the egg mixture before frying, or 
 filling them with either savoury or sweet 
 mixtures, purees, ragoiits, salpicons, etc., 
 the name and character of an omelet is 
 at once altered, whereby a great many 
 varieties can be introduced. 
 
 The actual cooking of an omelet has, 
 as the following rules will show, a great 
 deal, if not all, to do with its success. The 
 pan used and the fire required are likewise 
 important factors. 
 
 Rules for Omelet Making. 
 
 There are five rules which must be 
 strictly observed in order to produce a 
 successful omelet. 
 
 1st. — Eggs and Butter. 
 The eggs and butter, being the chief 
 ingredients for an omelet, must be as fresh 
 as possible. 
 
 2nd. — The Omelet Pan. 
 
 The omelet pan must be kept clean 
 
 and not used for any other purpose. It 
 
 must never be washed, but is best cleaned 
 
 by heating it and rubbing it with paper 
 
98 HOW TO COOK 
 
 or a coarse towel and salt, and then wiping 
 it with a clean cloth. 
 
 3rd. — Mixing and Seasoning. 
 
 Beat up the eggs thoroughly with a 
 fork, not a whisk. The eggs need not 
 be frothy, but mixed so as to amalgamate 
 the yolks with the whites. It is well to 
 add a little milk or cream at the time of 
 beating up the eggs ; this makes the ome- 
 let moister and lighter. Season moder- 
 ately. Do not use pungent spices. 
 
 ith. — Heating the Butter. 
 
 See that the butter used is hot but not 
 oily before the egg mixture is poured into 
 the omelet pan. One ounce of butter is 
 usually ample to make an omelet of six 
 
 eggs. 
 
 5th. — Cooking the Omelet. 
 An omelet must be cooked over a bright, 
 brisk fire because it needs to be made 
 quickly ; the process of stirring and shak- 
 ing the pan whilst the omelet is made 
 must also be quickly performed. Use a 
 spoon in preference to a fork for stirring. 
 
 How to Shape an Omelet. 
 
 Once the egg mixture begins to set, 
 that is when the eggs appear sufficiently 
 cooked, which means light and yet moist 
 or soft, shape it by folding in the ends, so 
 as to give it the form of an oval cushion. 
 This must be done at the side opposite 
 the handle, for which purpose the pan 
 should be tilted. Shake or Imock the pan 
 gently, so as to loosen the omelet. Let 
 it take colour, viz. : a golden brown. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 99 
 
 How to Turn Out an Omelet. 
 
 To do this correctly and successfully, 
 hold the pan by its handle with the right 
 hand, the palm of the hand being under- 
 neath the handle. Hold an oblong warm 
 dish in the left hand, bring the outer edge 
 of the pan close to the centre of the dish, 
 turn out the omelet by turning the pan 
 upside down, and then quickly remove the 
 pan. The process of making a plain omelet 
 should not take more than five minutes. 
 
 Plain Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette Naturelle.) 
 Take four or five eggs, one ounce of but- 
 ter, one table-spoonful of milk or cream, 
 pepper and salt. Break the eggs into a 
 basin, beat them well with a fork, add 
 if liked a table-spoonful of milk, or cream, 
 and season with salt and a tiny pinch of 
 pepper. Dissolve the butter in an omelet 
 pan ; when quite hot pour in the mix- 
 ture, stir slowly with a fork over a quick 
 fire, shake the pan, when set, shape the 
 omelet on one side of the pan, allow it 
 to take colour, then turn quickly on a 
 hot dish, and serve. 
 
 Omelet with Shallot Flavour. 
 
 {Omelette a I'Echalote.) 
 Fry two or three finely chopped shallots 
 in a little butter, when of a pale brown 
 colour {not dark) pour in the beaten and 
 seasoned eggs and proceed the same as for 
 plain omelet. 
 
 English Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette d VAnglaise.) 
 Prepare an omelet as above, adding two 
 
100 HOW TO COOK 
 
 thin slices of streaky bacon cut in strips 
 and fried in butter to the egg mixture, or 
 else garnishing the omelet when made with 
 thin slices of fried or grilled bacon. 
 
 Savoury Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette aux fines herhes.) 
 Take four or five eggs, one table-spoon- 
 ful cream, two dessert-spoonfuls chopped 
 parsley, including a leaf or two of green 
 tarragon, and a sprig of chervil, a pinch of 
 sweet herbs, one ounce of butter, a small 
 clove of garlic, pepper and salt. 
 
 Break the eggs into a basin, add the 
 cream, and beat up well ; add the chopped 
 herbs and seasoning. Cut the clove of 
 garlic and wipe the inside of the omelet pan 
 with the cut side. Melt the butter in this 
 pan, and when hot pour in the egg mixture. 
 Stir over a brisk fire with a fork until the 
 eggs begin to set, then roll towards the 
 side of the pan opposite the handle, and 
 give it the shape of an oval cushion. Allow 
 it to take colour (a golden brown). Turn 
 out on an oval dish (hot), and serve. 
 Tarragon and sweet herbs, or the flavour 
 of garlic, may be omitted. A small chopped 
 shallot may be added to the butter and 
 fried a little, if liked. 
 
 Omelette a la Bomie Femme. 
 
 Take six eggs, one ounce bacon, a boiled 
 potato, a breakfast roll, one teaspoonful 
 chopped parsley, half teaspoonful chopped 
 chives, salt and pepper. 
 
 Break the eggs into a basin, beat up for 
 five minutes ; add the parsley and chives, 
 also a pinch of salt and pepper to taste. 
 Cut the bacon into small squares, likewise 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS loi 
 
 the thin crust of the roll ; melt the butter 
 in a frying or omelet pan, fry the bacon 
 slightljf brown, then add the bread-crust 
 and the potato cut into dice, toss over 
 the fire for a few minutes, pour in the egg 
 mixture, stir with a fork gently over a 
 bright fire for two minutes. Then fold up 
 in the shape of a cushion, towards the side 
 opposite to the handle of the pan, hold it 
 in a slanting position for a minute also over 
 the fire to colour it lightly ; take a hot dish 
 in your left hand, holding up the pan with 
 your right, bring the centre of the dish 
 towards the edge of the pan with the 
 omelet, and then turn the pan over quickly 
 so that the omelet will come right in the 
 centre of the dish. Serve hot with two 
 or three table-spoonfuls of tomato sauce 
 poured round the base of the dish and serve. 
 
 Omelette a la Bemoise. 
 
 Proceed as in the preceding recipe, omit- 
 ting the bacon and adding about two 
 ounces of Gruy^re cheese, cut into small 
 dice. Fry the shallots in an ounce and a 
 half of butter, pour in the mixture with the 
 cheese, and finish cooking in the usual 
 manner. 
 
 Omelette a la Charentiere. 
 
 Beat up six eggs in a basin, add the 
 necessary seasoning (pepper, salt and nut- 
 meg), a table-spoonful of milk or cream, 
 and a heaped-up teaspoonful of French 
 mustard. 
 
 Cut two or three ounces of lean bacon 
 into small dice, and fry in an omelet pan 
 with an ounce of butter for a few minutes. 
 Add two finely minced shallots and fry 
 
102 HOW TO COOK 
 
 like'wise, but do not allow them to get 
 quite brown. Pour in the egg mixture, 
 and stir over a brisk fire till it commences 
 to set, then shape quickly into the form 
 of an oval cushion, allow it to take colour, 
 and turn out quickly on to a hot dish and 
 serve. 
 
 Omelette a la Clamart. 
 
 Prepare a plain or savoury omelet. 
 When about to shape it, fill the centre of 
 the omelet with a nicely seasoned green pea 
 puree, fold in the ends, and dish up. Pour 
 a little white sauce flavoured with lobster 
 or crayfish butter round the base of the 
 omelet, and serve hot. 
 
 Omelette a la Chasseur. 
 
 Prepare an omelet as before directed, 
 but in place of green peas fill the centre 
 with a delicately prepared ragout of game, 
 cut up small, and freed from skin and gris- 
 tle, mixed with chopped or sliced mush- 
 rooms and truffles, and moistened with a 
 little well-seasoned brown sauce. Pour a 
 little demi-glace sauce or gravy round the 
 base of the omelet, and serve hot. 
 
 Omelette a la Raphael. 
 
 Make a savoury omelet with six eggs, 
 and place in the centre a fine stew of fillet 
 of beef (goulash de bceuf) and truffles ; then 
 fold the omelet. When browned slightly, 
 turn on to a hot dish, and pour some demi- 
 glace sauce round the base of the dish. 
 Serve quickly. 
 
EGGC AND OMELETS 103 
 
 Leek Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette aux Poireaux.) 
 Take six eggs, one and a half ounces of 
 butter, one table-spoonful grated cheese, 
 salt and cayenne, one table-spoonful of 
 milk or cream, two leeks, well washed, 
 trimmed, and stewed in brown sauce. 
 
 Break the eggs into a basin, add the 
 cheese, sufficient salt and cayenne to taste, 
 and the milk or cream ; beat well to amal- 
 gamate the yolks and whites of eggs and 
 other ingredients. Cut the cooked leeks 
 into slices, and keep hot in a small stew-pan 
 with just enough sauce to moisten. Melt 
 the butter in an omelet pan ; when thor- 
 oughly warm (not too hot) pour in the 
 egg mixture, and stir over a bright fire 
 until the eggs begin to set. Shape quickly 
 into the form of a cushion, place the stewed 
 leeks in the centre, and fold in the ends. 
 Allow the omelet to take colour, then turn 
 out on a hot dish, pour a little brown 
 sauce round the base of the dish, and serve 
 quickly. 
 
 Omelettes a la Marechale. 
 
 Take eight eggs, eight slices of cooked 
 smoked ox-tongue, a dessert-spoonful of 
 chopped parsley, quarter gill of cream, one 
 and a half ounces of butter, salt, pepper, 
 Colbert sauce. 
 
 Break the eggs into a basin, add parsley, 
 pepper, salt, and beat up well, add the 
 cream and mix thoroughly. Divide into 
 eight equal portions ; melt a little of the 
 butter, and prepare a very small omelet 
 with each portion of the mixture ; place 
 it on the slice of tongue, trimmed to re- 
 quired size, and proceed thus until the 
 
104 HOW TO COOK 
 
 eight omelets are made. Dish up on a hot 
 dish in the shape of a border {en couronne), 
 pour Colbert sauce round the dish, and 
 serve. 
 
 Parmesan Omelets. 
 
 {Omelettes gratinees au Parmesan.) 
 Take six eggs, one large table-spoonful 
 cream, two table-spoonfuls grated Par- 
 mesan, one and a half ounces of butter, 
 white pepper, a few brown crumbs, tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 Break the eggs into a basin, add rather 
 more than half of the grated cheese and a 
 pinch of pepper (no salt), mix well with a 
 fork, add the cream, and beat well. Melt 
 half the butter in an omelet pan, pour in 
 half the egg mixture. Stir over a brisk 
 fire until the eggs begin to set (it requires 
 generally three minutes to stir), then fold 
 into a cushion shape, let it cook for one 
 minute to take colour ; turn on to a hot 
 dish. With the other half of the mixture 
 and butter prepare a second omelet, and 
 put it along with the first. Trim the 
 omelets neatly, sprinkle over with a few 
 breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan, also a 
 few drops of oiled butter, put the dish in a 
 sharp oven or under a hot salamander for 
 a few minutes, and serve with nicely- 
 seasoned hot tomato sauce poured round 
 the omelets. 
 
 Lentil Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette aux Lentilles.) 
 Cook half a gill of lentils in stock or 
 salted water till tender and drain them. 
 Melt an ounce of butter in a stew-pan, fry 
 in it a peeled, minced shallot, put in the 
 lentils, and fry for a few minutes. Moisten 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 105 
 
 with two or three table-spoonfuls of brown 
 sauce, season with pepper and salt, and 
 keep hot. 
 
 Break six eggs into a basin, beat up well 
 with two table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, 
 season with salt and pepper, and pour into 
 an omelet pan containing about an ounce 
 of butter (hot). Stir over the fire with a 
 fork till the mixture begins to set. Spread 
 the cooked lentils over the omelet and fold 
 in the sides. Let it take colour, a nice 
 golden brown, and turn out carefully into 
 a hot dish. A little tomato sauce may be 
 poured round the base of the dish if liked. 
 
 Kidney Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette aux Rognons.) 
 Skin two sheep's or half a small veal 
 kidney, cut it into thin slices, season, and 
 fry with one ounce of butter blended with a 
 very small chopped shallot ; add a little 
 brown sauce, and keep hot. Beat five eggs 
 together with two table-spoonfuls of milk ; 
 season with salt and pepper. Melt one 
 ounce of butter in an omelet pan, pour in 
 the omelet mixture, and stir it over the fire 
 until it begins to set ; then put in the 
 stewed kidneys and fold in the ends of the 
 omelet over. When nicely browned, slip 
 the omelet on to a hot dish, pour a little 
 hot tomato or brown sauce round the base 
 of the dish, and serve at once. 
 
 Mushroom Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette ancc Champignons.) 
 
 Wash and peel three or four fresh cup 
 
 mushrooms, chop them and fry in half an 
 
 ounce of butter, blended with a small 
 
 chopped shallot. Season with salt and 
 
io6 HOW TO COOK 
 
 pepper to taste, and keep hot. Prepare a 
 plain omelet, when ready to fold put the 
 mushroom puree in the centre, then fold 
 in the ends and allow the omelet to take 
 colour. Turn it out on to a hot dish and 
 serve. 
 
 Asparagus Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette aux Asperges.) 
 Cut into inch or half-inch lengths the 
 soft portion of twenty-five to thirty heads 
 of cleaned asparagus ; blanch them and 
 cook in salted water tiH tender. When 
 done, drain them on a sieve, then toss thera 
 in a little butter, add a little stock or white 
 sauce, season with pepper and keep hot. 
 
 Beat up five or six eggs, add a table- 
 spoonful of mUk or cream, salt and pepper 
 to taste, and pour into an omelet pan con- 
 taining about an ounce of butter (melted). 
 Stir over the fire till the eggs begin to set ; 
 shape to an oval cushion, placing the pre- 
 pared asparagus in the centre, fold n the 
 ends of the omelet, let it take colour, and 
 turn out carefully on to a hot dish. 
 
 Cheese Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette au Fromage.) 
 Beat up six eggs, with one ounce of grated 
 Gruy^re cheese and two table-spoonfuls of 
 milk. Melt one ounce of butter in an ome- 
 let pan and cook the omelet as directed for 
 plain omelet. Sprinkle over the surface of 
 the omelet with a little grated cheese. 
 
 Tomato Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette aux Tomxites.) 
 Steep two or three small ripe tomatoes 
 in hot water and skin them, cut them into 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 107 
 
 slices and toss them in a little butter over 
 a quick fire, season well and fill with it a 
 plain or savoury omelet. Pour a little 
 tomato sauce round the base of the dish. 
 
 Truffle Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette aux Truffes.) 
 Proceed the same as for mushroom 
 omelet, using six truffles in place of the 
 mushrooms. 
 
 Omelets a la Maintenon. 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Six eggs, three table-spoonfuls grated Par- 
 mesan cheese, toasted bread, one table- 
 spoonful of cream, pepper, one and a half 
 ounces of butter, about half a gill of tomato 
 sauce. 
 
 Break the eggs into a basin, beat up 
 well with a table-spoonful of grated Par- 
 mesan cheese, and the cream, add a pinch 
 of pepper ; divide this into four equal 
 parts ; melt a little butter in an omelet 
 pan ; pour in one part and make into a 
 small omelet, taking care that the omelet 
 is of a nice cushion shape. Proceed thus 
 until four omelets are made ; roll each 
 in Parmesan cheese, put them on an oval 
 shape of buttered toast. Sprinkle the sur- 
 face with more Parmesan, put them on a 
 baking sheet and place in a hot oven for 
 five minutes. Dish up on a hot dish, pour 
 over the hot tomato sauce, and serve. 
 
 Omelette a la Beamaise. 
 
 Prepare a plain omelet, fill it before fold- 
 ing in the sides with a mixture of artichoke 
 bottoms and mushrooms, cut into dice and 
 
io8 HOW TO COOK 
 
 heated up in tomato and Beamaise sauce. 
 Pour a little sauce round the base of the 
 dish. 
 
 Omelette a la Bayonne. 
 
 Prepare a plain omelet, fill it before fold- 
 ing in the sides with cooked ham and Span- 
 ish pimientos cut in strips and heated up in 
 tomato sauce. Pour a little of the latter 
 round the omelet. 
 
 Omelettes a la Milanaise. 
 
 Take six eggs, three table-spoonfuls grated 
 Parmesan cheese, one table-spoonful cream, 
 toasted bread, about half a gill tomato 
 sauce, and one and a half ounces of butter. 
 
 Break the eggs into a basin, beat well 
 with a table-spoonful of grated Parmesan 
 cheese and the cream, add a httle salt to 
 taste and a pinch of pepper. Divide this 
 into four equal parts. Melt a httle butter 
 in an omelet pan, pour in one part and 
 make into a small omelet, taking care that 
 the omelet is of a nice cushion shape. Pro- 
 ceed thus until four omelets are made, roll 
 each in grated Parmesan cheese, and put 
 them on an oval-shaped piece of buttered 
 toast. Next sprinkle over the surface a 
 little more cheese, put them on a baking 
 sheet, and place in a hot oven for about 
 two minutes. Dish up on a hot dish, pour 
 some hot tomato sauce round the base of 
 the dish, and serve. 
 
 Brain Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette d la Cervelle.) 
 Prepare and cook a plain omelet filled 
 with cooked calf's brains, cut in small pieces 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 1O9 
 
 and previously stewed in seasoned white 
 sauce. 
 
 Cucumber Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette aua; Concombres.) 
 Peel half a cucumber, cut it in halves 
 lengthways, scoop out the seedy part, cut 
 up into slices, stew in cream sauce. Fill 
 with it a plain omelet. 
 
 Spinach Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette aux Epinards.) 
 Rub half a pound of cooked spinach 
 through a fine sieve, heat it up with a little 
 bechamel or brown sauce, season to taste, 
 and fill into the centre of a plain omelet. 
 Pour a little gravy or thin brown sauce 
 round the omelet. 
 
 Anchovy Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette aux Anchois.) 
 Prepare a plain omelet by adding one 
 teaspoonful of anchovy essence and three 
 filleted Gorgona anchovies, cut into small 
 strips or dice, to the egg mixture and cook 
 as directed. 
 
 Sardine Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette aux Sardines.) 
 Procefed the same as for anchovy omelet, 
 using four boned and skinned sardines in 
 place of the anchovies, but allowing the 
 anchovy essence to be incorporated. 
 
 Curry Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette d Vlndienne.) 
 Peel and mince finely half a small Span- 
 ish onion, fry it a light brown colour in one 
 
no HOW TO COOK 
 
 ounce of butter, add a dessert-spoonful of 
 curry powder and one table-spoonful of 
 bechamel sauce. Cook for ten minutes, 
 remove the fat, if any, fill this into a 
 plain omelet. Turn the omelet on a bed 
 of boiled rice dressed on a hot dish and 
 surround with curry sauce. 
 
 Lobster Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette de Homard.) 
 Prepare a plain omelet, fill it, before fold- 
 ing in the sides, with creamed lobster, or 
 with minced lobster warmed up in bechamel 
 sauce. 
 
 Onion Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette aux Oignons.) 
 Proceed the same as for curry omelet, 
 omitting the curry and rice ; the onion can 
 be cooked in white or brown sauce. 
 
 Oyster Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette aux HuUres.) 
 Blanch one dozen oysters in their own 
 liquor, drain them and remove the beards 
 (preserve the liquor), and cut into small 
 dice, beat up six eggs with one table-spoon- 
 ful of milk and a table-spoonful of oyster 
 liquor, season to taste with salt and pepper ; 
 add the oysters. 
 
 Melt an ounce of butter in a chafing dish, 
 pour in the egg mixture and stir over a 
 quick fire till the eggs begin to set. Fold 
 over and shape neatly (oval cushion shape), 
 allow the omelet to take colour and serve. 
 
 Salmon Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette de Saumon.) 
 Free four ounces of cooked salmon from 
 skin and bones and flake it finely, heat it 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS iii 
 
 up in a little butter and white sauce, just 
 enough to moisten. Season with salt and 
 pepper and keep hot. Make an omelet as 
 above directed, omitting the oysters and 
 the oyster liquor. When ready to fold, 
 put in the hot salmon mixture, fold in the 
 ends and shape neatly. Turn out on a hot 
 dish and serve. 
 
 Ham Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette au Jambon.) 
 Beat up four fresh eggs and season to 
 taste with pepper and Paprika or Krona 
 seasoning, but no salt. Chop or cut into 
 small dice two ounces of cooked ham and 
 fry a little in an ounce of butter in an 
 omelet pan, then pour in the eggs and finish 
 cooking as before directed for a plain or 
 savoury omelet. 
 
 Viemia Tomato Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette a la Viennoise.) 
 Whisk up four to six fresh eggs in a basin, 
 season with salt and pepper, and pour the 
 eggs into a well-buttered fireproof souffle 
 dish. Bake in a fairly hot oven till the 
 omelet is set and of a nice golden brown. 
 Make an incision in the centre of the ome- 
 let and fill the cavity with a tomato stew 
 which is made as follows : — 
 
 Peel three or four small ripe tomatoes, 
 this is best done by dipping each into hot 
 water for a few seconds, then cut them into 
 quarters and toss in a Uttle butter over a 
 quick fire. Season with salt and pepper 
 and use as directed. This omelet should 
 be served in the dish or pan in which it is 
 baked. 
 
112 HOW TO COOK 
 
 >s American Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette d V Americaine.) 
 
 Beat up five eggs, add a table-spoonful 
 of cream, half a teaeupful of grated bread- 
 crumbs, a few drops of onion juice, a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped parsley, and season 
 with salt and pepper. Stir this over the 
 fire, in an omelet pan containing an ounce 
 of heated butter. When sufficiently cooked 
 shape it, allow it to set, and colour, then 
 turn out on a hot dish and serve. 
 
 Omelette aux Armourettes. 
 
 Prepare a plain or savoury omelet, and 
 fill the centre. When it is shaped with 
 previously poached slices of beef marrow, 
 serve with a little demi-glace sauce poured 
 round the base of the dish. 
 
 Omelette Bruxelloise. 
 
 This is a plain omelette filled with braised 
 Belgian endive, cut into small pieces, with 
 a little cream sauce poured round the base 
 hot. 
 
 Omelette Chatelaine. 
 
 Mix some chestnut puree with a little 
 soubise (onion) sauce. To this add finely 
 sliced artichoke bottom. Beat it up and 
 use as filling for a plain omelet. 
 
 Omelette a I'ltaliemie. 
 
 This is a plain omelet, stuffed with a 
 salpicon of chicken liver, ham, and mush- 
 rooms previously tossed in butter ; serve 
 with tomato sauce. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 113 
 
 Omelette a la Jardiniere. 
 
 Prepare a plain or savoury omelet, fill 
 it with mixed cooked vegetables (mace- 
 doine or jardiniere), previously heated up in 
 a little white sauce or butter, and seasoned. 
 Turn out and serve hot. 
 
 Omelette a la Madras. 
 
 Prepare a plain omelet, flavoured with 
 chutney or curry ; when ready for folding 
 fill with cooked rice, seasoned with a little 
 finely chopped mint and chives. Pour a 
 little curry sauce round the omelet and 
 serve hot. 
 
 Omelette a la Parisiemie. 
 
 Plain souffle omelet, filled with hot duxelle 
 puree (chopped mushrooms, shallots, parsley, 
 etc.), and folded. 
 
 Omelette a la Parmentier. 
 
 This is a plain or savoury omelet, 
 stuffed with dice-shaped potatoes previously 
 blanched, and fried in butter. 
 
 Omelette a la Paysanne. 
 
 This is a savoury omelet, containing 
 chopped and blanched sorrel ; before fold- 
 ing it is stuffed with braised lettuce and is 
 served with demi-glace sauce. 
 
 Omelette a la Perigord. 
 
 This is a plain omelet, mixed with chopped 
 truffles and served with truffle or Perigueux 
 sauce. 
 
114 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Omelette a la Portugaise. 
 
 This is a savoury omelet, mixed with 
 chopped anchovy fillets. Serve with tomato 
 sauce poured round the base of the dish. 
 
 Omelette Robert. 
 
 Fry some slices of streaky bacon, cut up 
 small and sliced onion till brown. Then 
 add beaten eggs and make into an omelet 
 in the usual way. Dish up and serve 
 with Sauce Robert. 
 
 Omelette a la Princesse. 
 
 This is a plain omelet mixed with cooked 
 asparagus points, or filled with asparagus 
 puree just before folding the omelet. 
 
 Omelette a la Reine. 
 
 This is a savoury souffle omelet, filled 
 with chicken puree or salpicon of chicken. 
 Allemande or supreme sauce is poured 
 round the omelet. 
 
 Omelette a la Reforme. 
 
 This is a plain omelet filled with shredded 
 truffle, hard-boiled white of egg, gherkins 
 and mushrooms ; heated in rich brown 
 sauce. 
 
 Savoury Puff Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette Soufflee mix fines Herbes.) 
 Beat very lightly the yolks of six eggs 
 and the whites of three ; stir into this one 
 table-spoonful of Brown and Poison's corn- 
 flour, mixed with half a gill of cream or 
 milk, season with salt and pepper, and stir 
 in one teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 115 
 
 Melt half an ounce of butter in a small 
 soufflee or omelet pan, pour in the mixture, 
 and set the pan into a hot oven. When 
 it thickens pour over the remaining whites 
 of eggs, weU beaten, with a pinch of salt, 
 and return to oven until a delicate brown. 
 Turn it out on to a hot dish, and serve at 
 once. 
 
 Fish Puif Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette Soufflie au Poisson.) 
 Shred finely one small cooked whiting 
 or a slice of cooked cod, heat it up in a 
 little butter and season to taste. Stir this 
 into a mixture made as directed in the 
 preceding recipe, and bake in a well-but- 
 tered pan in a fairly hot oven for about 
 twenty minutes, and turn out on to a hot 
 dish and serve with tomato sauce. 
 
SWEET OMELETS AND 
 OTHER SWEET EGG DISHES 
 
 Of these there are several kinds, the 
 plain, sucr6e, those fiUed with a fruit com- 
 pote or puree, preserved, or conserve fruit, 
 and the puff or soufflee omelettes. 
 
 It is usual to call these omelets accord- 
 ing to the kind of garniture used in their 
 preparation. 
 
 Rum Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette au Bhum.) 
 
 Beat up four eggs with a table-spoonful 
 of cream, a tiny pinch of salt and a tea- 
 spoonful of castor sugar. Melt about three- 
 quarters of an ounce of butter in an omelet 
 pan, when hot pour in the mixture and 
 cook whilst stirring, until it will not run in 
 the pan or tUl it begins to set, then roU 
 carefully and turn out on a hot dish, sprin- 
 kle freely with powdered sugar, pour round 
 the sides half a glass of rum, set it on fire 
 and with a spoon pour the burning liquid 
 over the omelet as long as it will blaze, 
 then serve. 
 
 Kirsch Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette au Kirsch.) 
 
 Proceed the same as for rum omelet, but 
 use Kirschwasser in place of the rum. 
 116 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 117 
 
 Ginger Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette au Gingembre.) 
 Beat up four eggs, add half ounce of 
 castor sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, 
 and a grating of nutmeg. Turn into an 
 omelet pan, containing three-quarters of an 
 ounce of butter. Stir over a quick fire till 
 it sets, then shape and let the omelet take 
 colour. Have ready a table-spoonful of 
 chopped preserved ginger mixed with two 
 table-spoonfuls of syrup and a table-spoon- 
 ful of cream ; put in the centre of the 
 omelet, roll, turn out on a heated dish, 
 then pour a little ginger syrup round the 
 base of the omelet, and serve hot. 
 
 Sweet Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette Sucrie.) 
 Beat up five fresh eggs, add a tiny pinch 
 of salt and a table-spoonful of castor sugar. 
 Melt in an omelet pan three-quarters of 
 an ounce of fresh butter, when hot pour 
 in the beaten eggs and stir over a quick 
 fire till they commence to thicken and set ; 
 then shape quickly into an oval cushion- 
 like form by folding in the ends. Allow 
 the omelet to acquire a golden brown 
 colour, turn out on to a hot dish, dredge 
 over with castor or icing sugar and brown 
 under a salamander or mark with a red- 
 hot skewer. 
 
 Jam Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette au Confiture.) 
 Proceed the same as for sweet omelet as 
 directed in the foregoing recipe ; just before 
 folding in the sides of the omelet, put in 
 two table-spoonfuls of fruit jam, previously 
 heated ; then roll it into shape and turn 
 
ii8 HOW TO COOK 
 
 out on a hot dish. Dredge with sugar and 
 brown under a salamander. 
 
 Omelet with Jelly. 
 
 {Omelette d la Gelie.) 
 Prepare a sweet omelet and have ready 
 some red currant jeUy just heated up. 
 Before beginning to roll the omelet into 
 shape, spread it with the jelly, then shape 
 as directed. Dish up, sprinkle over with 
 castor sugar, and mark the top with a red- 
 hot skewer like lattice work. Pour a little 
 jelly at the base of the omelet and serve. 
 
 Marmalade Omelet. 
 
 Proceed the same as directed in the 
 preceding recipe, using apricot or orange 
 marmalade in place of red currant jelly. 
 
 Omelette Robespierre. 
 
 Prepare a plain sweet omelet in the 
 usual way, using six to eight eggs, adding 
 pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of castor 
 sugar, a tablespoonful of cream, and 1^ 
 ozs. of butter. When made, fill the centre 
 with a salpicon composed of fresh or pre- 
 served fruit, preferably the former, such 
 as ripe cherries (stoned and halved), apri- 
 cots (stoned and cut up small), and straw- 
 berries cut in quarters or slices. Mix 
 with a very smaU quantity of syrup of 
 maraschino to flavour. Turn out the ome- 
 let on to an oblong dish, sprinkle over the 
 top with castor or icing sugar, then with a 
 red hot iron mark the surface into lattice- 
 work or other fancy design. Pour a little 
 liqueur-flavoured fruit syrup round the 
 base of the dish, and serve quickly. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 119 
 
 Peach Omelet. 
 
 (Omelette aux Peches.) 
 Cut six preserved peaches into quarters 
 or dice shape, and heat up in a little s)rrup, 
 flavoured with a dessert-spoonful of mara- 
 schino or Kirsch. Meanwhile make a sweet 
 omelet, as directed on p. 117, adding a table- 
 spoonful of cream before beating the eggs. 
 Prioi" to folding or rolling the omelet, put 
 in the prepared peaches, then shape and 
 turn on to a hot dish. Dredge with sugar, 
 glaze, and serve. 
 
 Omelette Mousseline. 
 
 Separate the yolks from four fresh eggs, 
 stir them in a basin, adding a good pinch of 
 salt, and incorporate by degrees half a gill 
 of rich cream. Season with white pepper 
 and a grate of nutmeg. Whisk the whites 
 of three eggs to a stiff froth and add this 
 carefully with the above. 
 
 Melt an ounce of fresh butter in an 
 omelet pan, when hot pour in the egg mix- 
 ture and stir with a small whisk over a 
 bright fire till the butter is absorbed and 
 the eggs begin to set. Shape it nicely by 
 folding in the ends, and let the omelet 
 acquire a golden colour. Turn it out on 
 a hot dish, and send to table. 
 
 Puffed or Souffle Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette Souffiie.) 
 Separate the yolks from six eggs and 
 cream them with three ounces of castor 
 sugar ; then add a dessert-spoonful of 
 Brown and Poison's cornflour, half a tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla essence. Whisk till 
 quite firm the whites of four eggs, adding 
 
120 HOW TO COOK 
 
 a pinch of salt before beginning to whisk, 
 and incorporate the froth to the above 
 mixture. The object of whisking the 
 whites, as well as the creaming of the yolks 
 of eggs, is of vital importance, for when 
 properly done the mixture wiU rise to 
 perfection whilst it is cooked. 
 
 Have ready a buttered gratin or souffle 
 dish, either in fireproof china or silver- 
 plated. Pour in half the mixture and 
 spread a little strawberry, apricot or rasp- 
 berry jam in the centre. Spread the re- 
 mainder of the mixture on top, smooth 
 over with the blade of a knife, dredge with 
 castor or icing sugar and make a few in- 
 cisions with the point of a knife, so as to 
 form a pretty design. Bake in a fairly 
 hot oven from twenty to twenty-five min- 
 utes. Place the dish on a folded napkin 
 or lace paper, and send to table immediately. 
 
 Omelette en Surprise. 
 
 Prepare a pint of rich vanilla cream ice, 
 and get ready an omelet souffle mixture as 
 directed in the preceding recipe. Cut out 
 a border shape of Genoese pastry, besprinkle 
 it with a little fruit syrup, and place it 
 on a round or oval dish (fixed with white 
 of egg or batter). Put the ice in the cen- 
 tre of the dish and spread over the omelet 
 mixture as quickly as possible so as to 
 cover the ice completely, shape neatly with 
 the blade of a pallet knife, dredge with 
 castor sugar and bake in a quick oven just 
 long enough to brown the top, then send 
 to table quickly. 
 
 The success of this omelet depends on 
 the speed of manipulation, baking and 
 serving. If liked, a Httle brandy, rum or 
 Kirsch may be poured round the base of 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 121 
 
 the dish, which must be lighted just before 
 serving, the effect, if properly carried out, 
 is quite a surprise. 
 
 Frosted Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette Meringuie.) 
 Whisk the white of an egg to a stiff 
 froth and sweeten with half an ounce of 
 vanilla sugar. Prepare a jam omelet as 
 directed on p. 117. As soon as it is dished 
 up, cover the top with the whisked whites 
 of egg, spread it over smoothly and dredge 
 with sugar, then bake in a quick oven or 
 brown under a salamander, and serve. 
 
 Friar's Omelet. 
 
 Peel, core and slice four sour cooking 
 apples, cook them with a little sugar to a 
 pulp, flavour with half a teaspoonful of 
 ground cinnamon, and stir in half an ounce 
 of fresh butter. Beat up five fresh eggs, 
 whisk the whites, add to it respectively the 
 apple puree and two table-spoonfuls of 
 brown breadcrumbs. Butter a fireproof 
 baking or souffle dish, pour in the mixture. 
 Dredge the top with castor sugar and bake 
 in moderately heated oven from twenty to 
 twenty-five minutes. Serve in the dish 
 in which the omelet is cooked. 
 
 Orange Puff Omelet. 
 
 {Omelette Soufflee d I'Orange.) 
 Separate the yolks from three eggs and 
 cream them with an ounce of castor sugar, 
 add the juice of an orange and the stiffly- 
 whisked whites of three eggs, to which a 
 pinch of salt should be added. Melt three- 
 quarters of an ounce of butter in an ome- 
 
122 
 
 let pan, when hot pour in the egg mixture, 
 and allow to cook whilst stirring for two or 
 three minutes, then let it take colour and 
 by means of a pallet knife carefully turn 
 it over so as to brown the other side. SUt 
 the omelet in the centre and insert two 
 table-spoonfuls of orange compote, that is 
 sUces of orange stewed in syrup, or failing 
 this use orange marmalade. Fold over care 
 fully, dredge with sugar, and serve. 
 
SWEET EGG DISHES. 
 
 Fried Egg Croutes (Sweet). 
 
 {Plain Perdu.) 
 Cut some milk rolls into neat slices, dip 
 each in sweetened milk, and then in beaten 
 egg. Drop the slices into hot clarified 
 butter, and fry a golden brown. Take up, 
 drain the slices or crofites, dredge with 
 castor sugar mixed with a little ground 
 cinnamon, then dish up and serve hot. 
 
 Snow Eggs a la Vanille. 
 
 Put a pint of milk, a gill of cream, and 
 two ounces of loaf sugar and vanilla pod in 
 a saute-pan and boil up. Whisk the whites 
 of four fresh eggs to a stiff froth and sweeten 
 slightly. When the milk, cream, etc., is 
 boiling drop it into the whites of egg, pre- 
 viously shaped with a tablespoon (the shape 
 of quenelles) ; dip the spoon into boiling 
 water each time it is used, and poach only 
 a few at a time. Turn the shapes as they 
 are being poached. Each quenelle will 
 take about six minutes to cook. When 
 done take up and drain, range them nicely 
 in a hot dish. Pour a little custard over 
 and round the quenelles, and serve. Use 
 vanilla pod if possible, as it gives a better 
 flavour than the essence. 
 
 Snow Eggs au Citron. 
 
 Proceed the same as directed in the fore- 
 going recipe, omit the vanilla and add a 
 thin strip of lemon rind to the milk. Chop 
 or grate the rind of half a lemon and mix 
 with the whisked whites of eggs. Shape 
 and poach in sweetened milk as directed. 
 123 
 
FOR INVALIDS AND 
 CONVALESCENTS. 
 
 Egg Bouillon. 
 
 Put two yolks of eggs into a small basin, 
 beat up a little, add a tiny grate of nutmeg 
 and pour in slowly three-quarters of a pint 
 of boiling hot seasoned beef stock or broth. 
 Serve it in cups and scatter a little chopped 
 parsley or chopped chives on top. 
 
 Savoury Egg Custard. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of Lemco with 
 half a gill of hot water, beat up four yolks 
 of eggs and add to the above. Boil up a 
 gill of milk and stir it with the eggs, etc. 
 Season with pepper and salt, and strain 
 into a buttered mould or basin. Place 
 this in a stew-pan containing a little hot 
 water, cover with buttered paper, and cook 
 in a hot oven for about twenty minutes. 
 When done turn out on a hot dish or plate 
 and serve. 
 
 Egg Jelly. 
 
 Put an ounce of gelatine in a stew-pan 
 with the juice of two lemons and about 
 half a pint of water (to make one pint of 
 liquid) ; to this add the finely cut rind of 
 half a lemon and four ounces of loaf sugar. 
 Stir over a slow fu-e, and when the gelatine 
 is dissolved add two eggs, well beaten, 
 124 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 125 
 
 allow it to get hot whilst stirring, but not 
 boiling, then strain into a pint mould and 
 place in the cool to set. To serve, immerse 
 the mould in warm water for a few moments 
 and turn out on a cold dish. 
 
 Frosted Egg. 
 
 Beat up on a plate the white of a new- 
 laid egg till stiff ; add to it a tiny pinch of 
 salt before or after beating it, and flavour 
 with a few drops of lemon juice. Pile it 
 on a clean plate or saucer, dredge over with 
 castor sugar, and serve. 
 
 Egg Coffee. 
 
 Beat up the yolk of an egg in a cup and 
 pour in slowly two parts of boiling milk and 
 one part of freshly-made coffee. Sweeten 
 to taste or serve without sugar as desired. 
 
 Egg Tea. 
 
 Cream the yolk of an egg with a dessert- 
 spoonful of castor sugar and add to it 
 the stiffly whisked white of an egg ; pour 
 on half a breakfast cupful of boiling mUk 
 and a little freshly made tea, just enough 
 to flavour. Strain into a smaller cup, put 
 a suspicion of grated nutmeg on top, and 
 serve. 
 
 Egg Wine. 
 
 Beat up a new-laid egg, add to it a 
 dessert-spoonful of castor sugar and a 
 small glass of sherry or marsala ; then 
 pour over slowly half a pint of boiling water. 
 Stir over the fire to bind the egg, but do 
 not let it boil. Strain into a cup, and 
 serve. 
 
126 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Steamed Eggs. 
 
 This is considered the most digestible 
 way of cooking eggs. Place the required 
 number of new-laid eggs in a warm basin, 
 large enough to hold the eggs and water 
 to well cover them. Pour over boiling 
 water (the usual proportion being one gill 
 to each egg). Allow the basin to stand on 
 the side of the stove or in the oven for six 
 or eight minutes. They are then ready 
 for serving. 
 
 Coddled Eggs, 
 
 Proceed the same as directed in the 
 foregoing recipe, eggs cooked in this way 
 being frequently known as " coddled." 
 
 Egg Fillip. 
 
 Beat up with a fork a new-laid egg, add 
 to it a table-spoonful of brandy or rum, 
 sweeten with one dessert-spoonful of castor 
 sugar. Stir and serve in a small cup or 
 glass. This makes an excellent stimulant 
 and restorative drink. 
 
 Egg Nog (Cold). 
 
 Whisk the white of a new-laid egg, when 
 stiff add a table-spoonful of castor sugar. 
 Mix the yolk with a table-spoonful of iced 
 water and three of milk, flavour with a 
 small glass of sherry or marsala. Pour 
 this into a ttimbler or cup, then add the 
 whisked white of egg. Stir gently and 
 serve. 
 
 Egg Nog (Hot). 
 
 Boil up half a pint of milk, and pour 
 it, whilst stirring, into a beaten yolk of 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 127 
 
 egg, and add a table-spoonful of castor 
 sugar. Reheat, but do not let it boil ; 
 put in a table-spoonful of old brandy, rum, 
 or whisky, and serve very hot. 
 
 Egg Water. 
 
 Stir lightly with a fork the whites of 
 two new-laid eggs into half a pint of iced 
 water. Sweeten to taste with castor sugar, 
 then serve. 
 
 This is said to be an excellent remedy for 
 diarrhoea, and is also good for children 
 teething. 
 
 Egg Flip. 
 
 Stir the yolk of a new-laid egg with a 
 dessert-spoonful of castor sugar till creamy, 
 add a table-spoonful of brandy or two of 
 sherry. To this add two table-spoonfuls 
 of boiling water, and lastly the whisked-up 
 white of the egg. Serve in a cup or tumbler. 
 
 Paprika Sauce. 
 
 This is made by adding sufficient red 
 Hungarian pepper to good white sauce 
 (Allemande or Veloutee) to colour and 
 flavour same. 
 
SUNDRY RECIPES. 
 
 Egg Sauce. 
 
 Shell and chop not too finely one hard- 
 boiled egg. Make a sauce by melting one 
 and a half ounces of butter in a saucepan, 
 blend in it one ounce of flour and stir in 
 half a pint of white stock and half a pint 
 of hot mUk ; allow it to boil whilst stirring, 
 and cook for about ten minutes. Strain 
 the sauce, put in the chopped egg, and 
 keep hot tUl required for serving. 
 
 Egg Nouilles. 
 
 Sift half a pound of flour and add two 
 yolks of eggs, a pinch of salt, and a table- 
 spoonful of oiled butter, and work into 
 a stiff but smooth dough. After being well 
 kneaded roll out the paste and cut it into 
 six portions. Fold the rolled out pieces 
 longways and cut crossways into narrow 
 strips, loosen the strips and boU in salted 
 water, dress and place in a stew-pan with 
 one ounce of butter, one ounce of grated 
 Gruydre cheese, and two table-spoonfuls 
 of bechamel sauce (p. 129), and season with 
 pepper and grated nutmeg. Stir over the 
 fire untU thoroughly hot, dish up, sprinkle 
 the top with freshly fried breadcrumbs, and 
 serve. 
 
 Mayonnaise Sauce. 
 
 Put two yolks of eggs into a clean and 
 dry basin, add a heaped-up saltspoonful 
 of salt, and stir with a wooden spoon, 
 128 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 129 
 
 adding little by little (drop by drop) one and 
 a half giUs of best salad oil, and at inter- 
 vals a tablespoonful of French vinegar 
 (Orleans). Continue to stir vigorously till 
 the mixture acquires a creamy substance, 
 then add another table-spoonful of vine- 
 gar, a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, and 
 lastly a few drops of chilli vinegar, and use 
 as directed. 
 
 Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 Take two yolks of eggs, half a gill of 
 bechamel sauce, one ounce of butter, one 
 teaspoonful of French wine vinegar, salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 Heat up the sauce in a small saucepan, 
 stir in the yolks of eggs, stand the sauce- 
 pan in a pan of boiling water over the fire 
 and whisk until nearly boiling ; add the 
 butter in small quantities, also the vinegar. 
 Season to taste, and whisk until the sauce 
 has the consistency of a light cream. This 
 sauce is excellent with boiled fish, aspara- 
 gus, cauliflower, artichokes, etc. 
 
 Note. — When a still richer sauce is required 
 omit the bechamel and use more egg yolks 
 and more butter. 
 
 Bechamel Sauce. 
 
 Melt one ounce of butter in a small 
 stew-pan, stir in one ounce of flour (bare 
 weight), and cook for a few minutes with- 
 out browning, then add half a sliced carrot, 
 half a small onion stuck with a clove, half 
 a bay leaf, and a small blade of mace, 
 and dilute with one gill of good white stock 
 and half a pint of milk. Stir till it boils 
 and let simmer gently for about twenty 
 minutes to half an hour. Strain the sauce 
 and season to taste. 
 
 I 
 
130 HOW TO COOK 
 
 Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Slice three or four small ripe tomatoes 
 and fry them in a small stew-pan with 
 two ounces of raw ham or bacon cut into 
 dice and one ounce of butter. Next add 
 a few slices of carrot, onion, and very little 
 celery, a small bay leaf and a blade of 
 mace. Then add half a pint of brown 
 sauce or bechamel, also a few mushroom 
 trimmings if handy, and cook gently for 
 twenty minutes or longer, adding a Uttle 
 stock, if found too thick. Reheat it, 
 remove the scum, strain the sauce, and 
 season to taste. 
 
 Brown Sauce. 
 
 Take half a pint of brown stock, one 
 small onion, one carrot, one ripe tomato, 
 one ounce of butter or dripping, one ounce 
 of flour, one dessert-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup, one teaspoonful of vinegar, 
 salt and pepper. 
 
 Peel and chop the onion, scrape and slice 
 the carrot, and slice the tomato. Melt 
 the butter or dripping in a saucepan ; when 
 hot add the flour and fry a little, then add 
 the vegetables. Stir over the fire until 
 nicely browned, then add the tomato, the 
 vinegar, ketchup, and stock, stir until it boils, 
 skim well, and allow to simmer for about 
 half an hour. Strain and season to taste. 
 
 Curry Sauce 
 
 Peel and slice a small onion, scrape and 
 slice a small carrot, fry both together in 
 half an ounce of butter ; when the onion 
 has acquired a light brown colour, add one 
 table-spoonful of mild curry powder and 
 stir for a few seconds. Next add a small 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS 131 
 
 peeled and chopped apple, moisten with 
 half a gill of tomato pulp and a gill of 
 brown sauce. Allow to boil for a few 
 minutes. Season to taste, and pass it 
 through a fine strainer. Reheat and stir 
 in last of all a finely chopped gherkin. 
 
 Supr&ne Sauce. 
 
 Melt an ounce and a half of butter in a 
 stew-pan ; stir in an ounce of flour and 
 allow it to fry a little without browning. 
 Add gradually a pint of chicken stock, stir 
 until it boils, and allow to simmer for 
 fifteen minutes. Add one gill of cream, a 
 teaspoonful of lemon juice, a pinch of salt, 
 and a pinch of grated nutmeg, and cook 
 gently. Pass through a tammy cloth, re- 
 turn to a clean stew-pan, and whisk in 
 half an ounce of fresh butter. 
 
 Aspic or Savoury Jelly. 
 
 Get ready the following ingredients : — 
 Two ounces of gelatine, one bay leaf, half 
 a leek, half a carrot sliced, a quart of white 
 stock or water, ten peppercorns, one table- 
 spoonful of French wine vinegar, one table- 
 spoonful of tarragon vinegar, the thin rind 
 and juice of half a lemon, and the white 
 and shell of one egg. 
 
 Put all the ingredients in a stew-pan, 
 add a good pinch of salt and the white and 
 shell, previously beaten, and whisk into 
 the stew-pan ; bring the contents slowly 
 to the boll, whisking all the time, and boil 
 slowly for about ten minutes ; allow to 
 stand for ten minutes and strain twice or 
 three times through a cloth or jelly bag. 
 
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