ASIA LIBRARY ANNEX 2 ^CORNELL university libMry THE WASON CHINESE COLLECTION UBRARKAHNEX lO a.'f/- Ote^irWff .OB 1 1947 ^ iA Pn 8 3lQ 8 2r 7l94t "WIW 7 in, 17 JriFf '^ JAN 27 20M Cornell University Library DS 796.S52M16 The story of Shanahai from the opening o 3 1924 023 489 598 The original of tiiis book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/cletails/cu31924023489598 1?- - - -^ THE STGEY OF SHANGHAI FROM THE OPfeNmc OF THE PORT TO FO^REIGN oTMDE, ."■■«n. BY h W. MACLEELAN\ ■J • SHANGHAI i ;. . PRINTED iND PUBLISHED AT THE "NORTH-CHINA HERALD" OfFICE. » 8:8,9. ' '■' ;".-':' . ■ ■ - ' " I THE STORY OF SHANGHAI. THE STOET OP SHANGHAI FROM THE OPENING OF THE PORT TO FOREIGN TRADE. / BY J. W. MACLELLAN. SHANGHAI : PRINTED AND PUBLISHED AT THE "NORTH-CHINA HERALD" OFFICE. 1889. SS2 ni6 W'cP j^i i PREFACE. There is not much in the way of history to be written of small Foreign Settlements in China which are not yet fifty years old; but during the short time events have happened in Shanghai which imperilled the existence of the place and the times and fortunes of the inhabitants. And a system of Municipal or self-government has been instituted, which is so well adapted to the community, formed of almost all nationalities, and to its relations to the Chinese Government, that it only requires expansion to meet the wants of an increasing population. Since the port of Shanghai was opened to foreign trade in 1843, a British Consul has virtually blockaded the port with a ten-gun sailing brig of war, notwithstanding that his country was at peace with China ; the native City has been in the hands of one set of insurgents; and other and more powerful armies of rebels were twice repulsed in their attempts to capture the City and the Settlements. The records of these and less important events are scattered through newspapers, a few books and parliamentary papers, none of which are easily accessible to the general reader. During the last few years I have frequently heard it said that an account of the Foreign Settements of Shanghai would be very acceptable to the public, and I have endeavoured to supply one. ii Preface. I have fortunately received assistance from old residents, whose memories go back almost to the foundation of the Settle- ments, and I have made use of every book and other publication which was available to me ; as well as of the private advices of firms, to their correspondents at home, before there was a news- paper published in the place, in which public events are recorded. I have to thank all those friends for their kindness, and particularly Pfere Chevalier for the information about the Roman Catholic churches in Shanghai. I shall be away from Shanghai when this little book is published; and I am under great obligations to Mr. R. W. Little and Mr. Henry O'Shea for having promised to see it through the press. J. W. M. Shanghai, April i88r t^e purpose. Bat at a special meeting of Landholders-astW are called in the Herald-this scheme was shelved, by an amendment which stated that Land- owners were not prepared t^ sanction any expenditure m a scheme of drainage, which would not be carried out by competent persons. The Committee theiP^?°^ resigned; but at another special meeting, held a week 11*f . ^^^ amendment of the pre- vious meeting was ordered to be^^^g^d from the minutes, and the Committee were requested to wJ^draw their resignations, which they did. It appears that xnany^t^« ™°^* ™P°^^^"t Landowners were not present or represented^!;* *^^ *''^* meeting, and that the Committee resigned in a pet, becS^^®' *^ *^®y ^^^^> the meeting " had affirmed their incompetency *<» conduct a system of drainage either with or withotft professional assistance." Xiocn i, • The Bund lots were pretty well built upon by Vf "' "^* ^'* appearance has been much changed in the meaniP'®' ^^^ Bund itself was then only twenty-five feet broad ; it be^^n about Russell & Co.'s property, beyond which, to the South w^^ ^^^^ * small native village, next to which and close to the V^'i*™ Road, was a large Chinese hong and godowns, after that al '^"'"'^ yard, where the Club now stands. Between that and the Y^'^S' king-pang was a space in which was a low wooden buil(S°S> where Mr. Hiram Pogg carried on a ship-chandlery and gent'"*' mercantile business. The end of these premises jutted over V^^ river, and their front was supported on long piles, and steps, li*^ a ship's gangway ladder reached down to the water, for t"® convenience of those who went and came in boats. On t^^ southern end of the Bund the house now occupied by Messr Brand was built in 1850 or before, farther North was the Oustoi House, and beyond it Messrs. Dent's house and on the corner ( * I have been told that it was soon after these earthquakes that the la dwellers at Namtao came into the Settlement. The Tsing-pu Affair — Early Municipal Worh. 31 what is now Peking Koad the first E-wo hong was then standing. It was taken down in the following year and the present house erected in its place. There are therefore only two houses and the Custom House now on the Bund which were in existence thirty-nine years ago. Bat the Custom House of those days wanted the two wings which the building now has ; these were built about 1857. The British Consulate was building towards the close of 1851, when its foundation were just beginning to appear above the ground.* There was no bridge then, or for four or five years afterwards, over the Sooehow Creek, passengers being ferried across. Bat this would not much matter, as there was only one bungalow in Hongkew,t and a small building -which Mr. Dewsnap, who was making the Old Dock, put up for his own accommodation. There was a small and wretched village between the creek and where the American Mission houses were afterwards built. Broadway was a narrow path, on which it was possible to walk when the tide was not too high. There was for some years after 1850 a bamboo copse, wherein woodcock were to be found in their season, just on the North side of the Hongkew creek. Two years later there was no French Concession between the city wall and the Tang-king-pang, or " foreign boundary creek," as that space was all, from the North Gate to the river^ a Chinese suburb.. In this, and within the grounds of the present Consulate, M. de Montigny, the French Consul, resided in 1852 in a house somewhat like a modified Chinese house, but sur- rounded by a compound of some extent. At that time there was no Bund bridge over the Tang-king-pang, but there was one near the line of Szechuen Road — thence once called Bridge Street — another was at Honan Boad, and a third at Fokien Road. The last-named was always known as Taylor's Bridge, because an American missionary built a small church there, on the French side, which is still standing, behind the French Municipal Buildings. * Built by Mr. Hethrington, an American gentleman, in 1846. He died in 1848, and is said to have, been the first foreign resident who died in Shanghai. + Address by the Rev. Dr. Nelson, Shanghai 1870. 32 TTie Story of Shanghai. The mails arrived at that time in opiam clippers, and probably other sailing vessels, at irregular intervals, and the speed with which they were carried may be guessed from a statement in one of Sir Rutherford Alcock's despatches, in which he congratulates himself on having received a reply from Hong- kong in the unusually short time of six weeks. For several years after that time, indeed, until the Elgin treaty allowed steamers with opium on board to bring it into port, the mails for mercantile firms were taken charge of by the captains of the receiving-ships at Woosung, to whom they were addressed, and who sent them by pony express to Shanghai. Perhaps twenty ponies were sent off with letter bags for the firms in Shanghai who employed their captains to receive their mails. The boys who rode them took things easily till they neared the bridge over the Soochow Creek, when that had been built, but when they got across it they came yelling and shouting at headlong speed along the Bund, and other streets, throwing off their letter bags at the doors of the houses to which they were addressed. The arrival of the maU, the news that the flags were up on the receiving-ships at Woosung, furnished the strongest excitement in the ordinary life of the first sixteen or seventeen years of foreign residence in Shanghai, And every mail at that time and almost until the introduc- tion of telegraphs, Messrs. Dent and Jardine, and occasionally other firms, sent away their own steamers from Hongkong, which anticipated the arrival of the mail in Shanghai. These steamers anchored in Yang-tsze bay, a messenger with their owners' mail and Hongkong letters was despatched overland and the firm had from one to two days in which to operate before the community received its despatches by the P. & 0. steamers. Residents led, perforce, very quiet lives in these early days. In 1852 there were few wives of foreign merchants, and some few years afterwards a ball at which thirty gentlemen and nine ladies were present were described in almost ecstastic terms. In those times ladies gave a half, a third and sometimes a quarter of a waltz to each partner. Marriage was as a rule discouraged by the " heads of houses," and it was known to be The Tsing-pu Affair — Ewrly Municipal Work. 33 " common " if not " statute " law* that no member of such firms. should marry during his connection with it. In a com- munity in which young bachelors formed the majority, there was a good deal of humour and independence of character dis- played, and none of that deference to the two " big houses," which characterised Hongkong, was shown in Shanghai. It was rather the other way. The Government of China was in sore straits in the year 1862. The Taipings ■ were threatening the great cities in the valley of the Tang-tsze, and were approaching the tea and silk districts which supply Shanghai with its chief exports. Amoy was captured by the Triad Secret Society in May ; bands of robbers were at the same time ravaging the northern parts of Kuang-tnng ; and the city of Canton was environed by large bodies of insurgents in August. Yeh-niing-chen, the Viceroy who was afterwards taken to Calcutta, first shewed his blood, thirstiness in Canton then, and so great was his alarm, and poor his means of defence, that he applied for help to the British authorities in Hongkong. The condition of the Empire, every- where, was so bad that the fall of the Manchu dynasty was sinticipated by foreigners generally. * Dr. Nelson's address. 34 The Story of Shanghai. CHAPTER IV. THE TRIADS IN THE CITY. Early in 1853 a rnmonr spread in the city that Hankow had been taken by the Taipings, and although Hankow is far from Shanghai, a panic ensaed. In March business was suspended, Nanking was then besieged by the rebels, who were also reported to have a large fleet near Woosnng. When Nanking and Chinkiang fell, the native tea and silk men fled from Shanghai, taking goods or anything they could get in payment of the sum which foreigners owed them. The native bankers at the same time refused to give the ordinary facilities to their customers, and therefore duties could not be paid or ships cleared. Mr. Alcock then took on himself the collection of the Customs' duties, and to receive in place of the money due for them various securities. The arrangement had only lasted one month, when it was terminated by its author. Matters were so bad in the province of Kiangsu that the Grovernor twice entreated the foreign Consuls that their men- of-war in Shanghai should be sent to Nanking to help him. Nevertheless the fortifications of Shanghai were almost totally neglected. Sir George Bonham, Her Majesty's Plenipotentiary to China, arrived in Shanghai at the end of March, and was followed a few days later by Colonel Marshall, United States Commis- sioner, in the frigate Susquehanna. This ship was of 2,500 tons, and the largest steamer that had entered the port up to then. Both these gentlemen went to Nanking in pursuit of information about the rebels. Matters appeared so threatening in the province, and the authorities in the city so incapable, that Sir George Bonham authorised the formation of a Volunteer Corps for the defence of The Triads in the City. 35 the Settlement. The Americans appointed a committee, con- sisting of Messrs. B. Canningham, W. S. Wetmore, and H. H. Warden, who were to consider matters. But a safficient number of Volunteers not coming forward, a " Committee of Co-opera- tion " was formed, consisting of British and Americans. A meeting of all the Consuls and residents of every nationality was afterwards held at the British Consulate, at which it was stated that temporary measures of defence had already been taken in the shape of earthworks. One speaker suggested that the Settlement should be surrounded by a " ring fence," from Taylor's Bridge, at the end of Fokien Road, on the Tang-king- pang to near Louza village on the Soochow Creek. The Volunteers forthwith began drilling morning and evening under the command of Captain Tronson, of the 2nd Bengal Fusiliers. The peace of the Settlement remained undisturbed for some months, but the city and its neighbourhood were infested by bands of thieves, Taotai Wu, or Sam-qna, who had purchased his rank, doing nothing. And on Easter Day during this period the American Church of Our Saviour in Hongkew was opened for pnblic worship. Apparently to the surprise of foreigners, as well as official and other Chinese, the city of Shanghai was on the 7th September, 1863, captured, or quietly taken possession of, by the Triad Society, aided by Canton, Fokien, Ningpo and other disaffected and disorderly people. Sam-qua, Taotai, remained unmolested in his house for some days, protected by his fellow provincialists, the Cantonese, but Mr. Caldecott Smith and Dr. Hall visited him and persuaded him to leave the city. Bat when they proposed that he should be lowered from the walls in a basket, he would not, until one of them had preceded him in that way. Wu, or Sam-qua, took refuge in Messrs. Russell & Co.'s house, then the American Consulate, which greatly exasperated the Pukienese against all foreigners, and he remained there for several weeks. The Chi-hien and a few soldiers were killed by the insurgents, and the Custom House on the Bund was plundered and demolished. The day after they took possession of the 36 The Story of Shanghai. city the insurgents fought fiercely among themselvea aboat the division of their booty, and fights were afterwards of constant occurrence, all the time they were in the city. Paoshnn and Kahding were captured by bands of the same insurgents, soon after Shanghai was taken by them. As soon as they were in possession of the city, the insurgents opened communications with the rebels in Nanking, desiring to join forces, but the Taipings would have nothing to do with them ; on theological grounds and because of the use of opium, it was said. Captain Fishbourne, of the Sermes, took prompt measures for the defence of the Settlement, and thus prevented any attack on it by the insurgents. Mr. Alcock, and the United States Vice-Consul,* now notified their merchants that duties must be paid to them, or promissory notes for them and securities given, or they would not clear British or American ships. But the majority of merchants were of opinion that as the Chinese Governnjent could not fulfil its part of the treaty obligations, and could not give the slightest protection to anyone in Shanghai, they were not bound to pay duties to it. Mr. Alcock replied to this, that the capture of a seaport on the coast of a vast empire could in no sense abrogate a solemn treaty entered upon between the sover- eigns of Great Britain and China. " It therefore remained to him to see tjiat the rights of the Chinese Government did not suffer." The United States Vice-Consul took his stand on Article II. of the treaty with his country : — " That citizens must pay duties according to tariff." Sir George Bonham and Colonel Marshall supported the opinions of their Consuls. But the Consuls of other nations informed Messrs. Alcock and Cunningham that they had no information of a Custom House being in existence in Shanghai, and would not recognise the expedient of paying duties to foreign officials. The French Consul intimated that he would clear ships of his nationality without calling on them to pay duties, and the Consuls of other nations, who were all merchants, took the same line. * Mr. E. Cunningham was an American merchant in Shanghai, and was acting as Consul, against his own interest. The Triads in the Oity. 37 The Taotai made two attempts to take away the reproach of their being no Ctistom House at the port. In the first, he sent a mandarin to establish himself among the ruins of the old Custom Honse, bat this officer was driven away by the guard from H.M.S. Spartan, which was stationed there. In the second, he intimated that duties would be received on board a junk moored in the river, and Mr. Cunningham told his coantrymen to pay their duties on board that junk ; but they replied that they could not find her. In January 1854 the United States Vice-Oonsul notified that he would allow ships of his nationality to sail without requiring payment of their duties, so long as ships of other nations were allowed to do so. But Mr. Alcock was made of more obstinate stuff, and held out until the Taotai, being pressed for money, allowed a Bremen ship to clear on payment of only part of duties. Then Mr. Alcock permitted the John Wood to sail, without requiring her duties. But previous to this the Taotai established a Custom House on the north side of the Soochow Creek. The merchants were, however, too much for him, and the Consuls ; all the American and some of the British firms sent their tea and silk to Woosung to be shipped there. That was illegal, but nevertheless two American vessels carried away full cargoes of tea on which no duties had been paid.* Sir John Bowring, who succeeded Sir George Bonham in 1854, upheld Mr. Alcock, but Lord Clarendon, Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, instructed him to return all the promissory notes and securities for duties which British merchants had given. Sir John did not do this; he directed Mr. Alcock to return only the notes which had been given between the 7th September, 1853, when the city was taken by the insurgents, and the 9th February, 1854, when a Custom House was tempo- rarily established on the north side of the Soochow Creek. The promissory notes given after the last date were retained until February 1865, and the notes of American merchants were returned to them during that year, when Mr. Marphy had become Consul. * Messrs. G. C. Schwabe & Co.'s Circular, 13th March, 1854. 38 T%e Story of Shanghai. Everything connected with this dispute exhibited a curious state of affairs. Mr. Alcock and the United States Vice-Consnl attempting to coerce their countrymen, other Consuls fighting for their own hands, and Sam-qna, Taotai, taking anything he could get in the way of duties, and Sir John Bowring disregarded the positive orders of Lord Clarendon. The position of the Chinese officials at Shanghai led the Consuls of Great Britain, France and the United States to propose that the Custom House of Shanghai should be placed under foreign management, and this was done in July 1854. An Inspector was chosen by each of the Treaty Powers ; Mr. Thomas Francis Wade, resigning the Vice-Consulship at Shang- hai, to represent Great Britain ; M. Arthur Smith, of the French service, France ; and Mr. Lewis Carr, of the United States Consular service, represented his countrymen. Mr. Wade only held his post for about a year, when his place was taken by Mr. H. N. Lay, of the British Consular Service. This was the beginning of the Imperial Foreign Customs Department, for the plan worked so well in Shanghai that it was soon extended to the other open ports. To return to affairs in the city and neighbourhood. The Triads, and their allies, some of whom called themselves The Small Sword Society, and who appear to have been all nick- named Red Caps by the Imperialists, held Shanghai for seventeen months. Their chief leader was Lew, a Cantonese who had been a sugar broker, and who had established the Triad Society in Shanghai a few years before. He was an emaciiated opium smoker, but was reported to be a man of capacity and resolution but the most active spirit among the insurgents, if not their actual leader, was Chin A-lin, who had been horse-boy to Mr. Skinner, a partner in the firm of Messrs. Gibb, Livingston & Co. Another leader had been a green-tea broker in Shanghai. Their principles, or, if they had none of these and they certainly shewed none, the bond of union among them, was hatred of the Manchu dynasty. So far they agreed with the Taipings, but the captors of Shanghai had apparently no desire to interfere with the prevailing forms of religion, which the Taipings were The Triads in the City. 39 sworn to overthrow. The movement against the Manchus seems at first to have been regarded by foreigners in Shanghai as a patriotic outbreak among the Chinese. As soon as Shanghai was in possession of the insurgents, all the inhabitants fled, who could do so. Lew visited the Settlement in state next day, and called on the Consuls, but was not officially received by them. A fleet of the Imperial junks came down -from Sungkiang on the 10th and bombarded the eastern part of the city, but without doing much harm to the insurgents. The crews were landed and set fire to the eastern suburb, burning twelve hundred houses and carrying off an immense deal of plunder. The Soochow Creek was crowded with these junks for a mUe or more ; the Imperial camp was on the old race course, within the Defence Creek, and the lawlessness of the rabble which was congregated there soon brought about trouble with the foreign residents. For instance, a large number of them stole into the Settlement at dusk one evening, in single file, and attempted to carry off some guns which coolies were taking from Messrs. Gilman, Bowman & Co.'s, in Kiukiang Boad. A few Volunteers prevented this and saved the guns, while the half dozen marines and sailors, who formed a gnard at the Church, drove the main body of the invaders out of the Settlement. Sam-qua, ex Taotai, applied soon after to Mr. Alcock for the names of all Chinese in his employment, and that of British residents, that he might know the traitorous among them — a reqnest that was contemptuously refused. He stated at the same time that the city was to be attacked immediately. Accordingly, on the 6th December a steamer which he had purchased, and a large fleet of war junks, full of soldiers, made a great demonstration against a mud fort, which the insurgents had erected above the city. Many guns were fired, flags waved, stiok-pots thrown, and gongs beaten, but all this did but little damage to the insurgents. The Imperialists, however, succeeded in burning the south-eastern suburb. But though the insurgents had on this occasion proved themselves better fighting men than the Imperialists, they were soon to encounter a much more powerful opponent. 40 The Story of Shcmghai. Some Pokienese insurgents arrested two oatechists near the South-east Gate, and it was said subjected them to some torture, besides detaining, them. The Catholic Bishop sent a priest to demand their surrender, bat this was refused, whereupon the insurgents said they were threatened with an attack of a French fleet. M. Edan, then French Consul, thereupon intimated to his colleagues that he had demanded reparation from the insurgents for the seizure of the catechists, and that he might be obliged to take hostile measures. The excitement which this caused in the Settlement was allayed when it became known that the French demands had been complied with, at the instance, it was said, of some Englishmen who visited the insurgent chief in the city. In order to satisfy the honour of France, M. Edan required that the chief of the Fokien insurgents should come to the French Consulate, and be punished with fifty blows at the foot of the flag-staff. On an early day the Fokien leader, accompanied by a dozen of his officers, and guarded by French soldiers, to prevent their being captured by the Imperialists, appeared at the Consulate. The Consul received them at the foot of the flag staff, Admiral Lagnerre being present, where the Fokienese leader expressed his readiness to be punished. The flogging was remitted, and the insurgent struck his head nine times on the ground, while the Consul told him that any insult to the French nation would be immediately resented. About this time Sir John Bowring and Admiral Stirling, the French authorities and the Imperialists tried to get the insur- gents to give up the city and offered them an lasylum elsewhere. But these negotiations, which were separately carried on, came to nothing. The Imperialists put their chief trust in mining the city walls, the insurgents were more dashing. But it was suspected at the time that the fights between the two hosts which took place in the open country were pre-arranged affairs, for the Imperialists would tell friendly foreigners when they were coming off and whether it would be worth while to go and see them. The Imperialists mined under the city moat on one The Triads in the Gity. 41 ocoasioa and blew down a large part of the wall, only to find that an inner wall had been constructed,- which barred their way When one breach was made in the wall a writer, who witnessed the scene,* said that by the explosion of these a wall of fire occupied the place of the demolished wall of brick and earth. Fire arms were dispensed with ; both sides fought with the weapons which pirates used, that wound and kill by burning. The Imperialists suffered greatly, as they were crowded together, and were at last driven away into a fort which the insurgents took, held for a little, and then evacuated. Upon this the Imperialists gallantly charged the dismantled place and captured it. On another occasion the Imperialists mined under the moat to the city wall, a great part of which was blown down by the explosion of their mine. But as the insurgents had been aware of what was going on, they had constructed an inner wall which confronted the attacking force, as it rushed into the breach. Another day the Imperialists placed sufficient gunpowder in a mine to blow up the whole city, but the insurgents came out, drove them away, and carried off the powder of which they were much in want at the time. The Imperialists suffered punishment for their repeated attacks on foreigners and outrages in the Settlement, when, on the 4th of April, 1854, the Shanghai Volunteers, accompanied by men from H.M.S. Encounter and Grecian, and the U.S. sloop-of-war Plymouth, marched out and attacked their camp on the old race course. The whole force amounted to about 300 men, and a field piece from the Encounter, while the Taotai had stated that there were 10,000 soldiers in the camps. The Captains of the ships-of-war led their men, and the Volunteers were commanded by T. F. Wade, then H.M.'s Vice-Consnl in Shanghai. The British and American Consuls accompanied their columns. The American seamen took the left part of the ground and were first exposed to a fire from the camps, which in return were shelled by the Encounter's field piece. The main body of the British, meanwhile, moved forward to attack the camps, bat were obliged to made a detour, and while they were * Dr. Yates, in the North-China Herald. 42 J The Story of Shanghai. doing this the shelling began to drive the Imperialists out of their quarters. A large liumber of them, however, gathered behind the most northerly camp, and these, as the attacking force came into view, discharged a cannon at them, which killed a sailor of the Encounter and wounded several others. As the Volunteers and sailors rushed forward, the Imperialists fired a volley of musketry at them, but they crossed the ditch and captured the camp. The Americans were unable to cross the creek, from want of ladders, and, when the camps were in the hands of the British forces, they fell back to defend the river, when the Imperialists where assembling in great numbers.- The march back to the Settlement, after firing the camps, was accomplished without loss, as the fire from the field piece checked the Imperialists. This affair, known to history as the battle of Muddy Flat, occupied only two hours in all ; it was successful in the object which Mr. Alcook had in view ; but was unfortunately attended with some casualties to the foreign forces. The Volunteers had three men wounded, two of whom died a few days afterwards and the other lost a leg ; the Encounter and Grecian had each five men wounded and the Americans one killed and four wounded, most of them seriously. The foreign community of Shanghai thanked Captains O'Oallaghan of the Encounter, . Keane of the Orecian, and Captain Kelly of the Plymouth, for the prompt and decisive measures which they took for the defence of the Settlement, and the British community presented a service of plate to Captain O'Callaghan. The British Government approved of Mr. Alcock's action, but it has been impugned, on the one hand by those who saw in it only his " unreasonable haste and imperiousness,"* and on the other hand by a few who had debilitated their judgment by long admiration of everything Chinese. Such action as Mr. Alcock took was absolutely necessary if the Settlement was to be preserved, not only from outrage, but very possibly from * Autobiography of Mr. R. B. Forbes, formerly a partner in Messrs. Russell & Co., who forgets that the U.S. Consul concurred with Mr. Alcock. The Triads in the City. 43 destruction. The mandarins had no authority over the rabble which filled the camps, and which was composed of the worst specimens of cruel, vicious, cowardly and utterly lawless men. By the end of autumn the state of the city had become very gloomy ; nine-tenths of the inhabitants had fled, and the policy of taking the place and handing it over to the Imperialists was discussed. If this was done the insurgents were to be deported to Formosa. The insurgent chiefs were said to be quite willing to surrender the city to the Treaty Powers. But the French now interfered. A few months after the occupation of the city by the insurgents, the Imperialists erected a wall between the ' city and the" French Concession. This was done to prevent the insurgents coming on the Con- cession to sell their plunder and purchase supplies. A sort of market had been established on both sides of the Yang-king- pang, where a lively business was carried on by the insurgents, and of this the Imperialists bitterly complained. , The building of that wall was approved by the Consuls of Great Britain and the United States ; indeed, the Minister of the latter Power extended it on the north side of the Tang-king-pang, but the British authorities would have nothing to do with continuing it further, whereupon the Imperialists did so. The French Admiral Laguerre had evidently been watching his opportunity to 'interfere with arms on the side of the Imperialists. I think also that Mr. Alcock was willing that this should be done, as the insurgents were now utterly demoralised. The French Admiral found his opportunity when ■the insurgents erected a mud fort or battery between the city and the wall which I have mentioned, somewhere near what is now the Rue Touranne. He immediately ordered its removal, threatening, if this were not done by its builders, to do it himself. The insurgents treated these orders with contempt, and the Admiral sent a party of sailors to destroy the fort. A colli- sion ensued ; shots were exchanged ; some rebels were killed and one Frenchman mortally woun^ded. Admiral Laguerre at once declared the city in a state of siege, and on the 9th December, H.I.F.M.'s ship Colbert, of 6 guns, opened fire on it. The 44 The Story of Shanghai. bombardment continued for two hours ; the insurgents did not return the fire. On the following day the frigate La Jeanne D'Are, of 44 guns, anchored near the Oolbert, but the bombard- ment was not renewed. The next step taken was the despatch of a vapouring letter from the French Consul to Mr. Alcock in which complaint was made that insurgents went to and from the British Concession and the city. Mr. Alcock immediately called a meeting of British Land-renters and impressed the duty of absolute neutrality on them. But when he proposed that the Land-renters should erect a wall round the whole Settlement, they unanimously resolved that such measures should be under- taken by the representatives of the Treaty Powers. At this meeting a letter was read from Sir James Stirling, the British naval commander-in-chief on the station, in which he informed the community that the time was limited in which he would allow a guard from Her Majesty's ships to protect the Settlement, which he thought should be done by the Chinese ! Thus the meeting had the British civil authority recommending it to build a wall to keep out the Chinese mandarins and their men, and the naval commander-in-chief saying that to these same Chinese the protection of the Settlement should be entrusted. Sir James Stirling's letter gave great dissatisfaction to the British community, and in replying to a remonstrance which was addressed to him, he endeavoured to explain it away. It would appear that the efforts of the British and American Consuls restrained the French Admiral from further operations against the insurgents, until the 6th of January. About half-past six on the morning of that day a cannonade was commenced from a battery in front of the French Consulate, and within an hour a practicable breach was made in the city walls. Two hundred and -fifty French sailors and marines were landed and ascended the breach, "supported" by fifteen " hundred Imperialists, and covered by the fire of the two men-of-war in the river. A desperate struggle took place in the breach ; the French behaved with great bravery and coolness, and the Imperialists with their usual cowardice. Finally, the Imperialists were driven back and the French, finding themselves unsupported, were compelled The Triads in the City. 45 to retire within their lines, with a loss of forty-five officers and men killed and wounded.* The insurgents then came oat of the city and drove away the Imperialists. Mr. Aloock seems to have approved the action of the French as he followed the storming party into the breach. . On" the night of the 17th, or the morning of the 18th February, 1855, the insurgents . stole away from the city, which they had previously fired. Their flight was in the direction of Sic-ka-wei, and they were pursued as soon as the Imperialists heard of their escape. Those who were taken were of course beheaded, and the Imperialists occupied Shanghai on the 18th. They at once began to butcher all the people they found in the city, and even opened coffins and beheaded the dead. Immense mounds of heads and headless bodies were everywhere about the city and suburbs, and the unfortunate people who were found alive were ruthlessly pillaged. One unlucky wealthy man had been compelled to pay three hundred thousand taels to the insurgents, and the Imperialists now made him pay two hundred thousand more for having complied with these demands. Many of the insurgents were sheltered in the British Settle- ment until means were found to send them away to other places, but three hundred of them, who had surrendered to Admiral Laguerre, were given up by him to the Imperialists.^ Many captives were beheaded in the belief that they were Lew and Chia-a-Hn, but both escaped, and the ex horse-boy was afterwards a prosperous merchant in Siam. * The killed were at first buried at Timg-ka-doo, then in the French cemetery, and were transferred in 1888 to the cemetery on the English side. + Scarth's Twelve Years in China. 46 The Story of Shanghai. CHAPTER V. THE TAIPING TIMES AND AFTER DISASTERS. During the occupation of the city by the Triads, some ten to twenty thousand Chinese, mostly bad characters, had come to live in the Settlement. This made the first change in the quiet- going place. Chinese, except those who were original owners of land, were not allowed to hold real property or houses within the limits, or indeed to reside within them except as employes of foreigners. But those who had come within the Settlement were allowed to remain, and their numbers do not seem to have decreased down to the time when the presence of the Taipings near at hand greatly augmented them. The growth of the Settlement necessitated an extension of the Municipal institutions, which had hitherto been represented by the Committee of E/oads and Jetties, and for a temporary purpose, the Committee of Co-operation, both consisting of three members. Therefore, at a meeting of Landrenters held on the 22nd July, 1854, a Committee of seven members was chosen, which was shortly afterwards named the Municipal Council. Affairs were quiet in Shanghai during the next few years, but the commercial disasters of 1857 checked its prosperity, for a time, and the war with China affected business for a few months. ,Lord Elgin, Her Majesty's Special Envoy to China, arrived in Shanghai on the 26th March, 1858, and received an address from British merchants on the 29th, and left in the Furious for the Peiho on the 10th April. Succeeding in hia mission to the north, he returned to Shanghai and left for Japan on the 31st July, and after concluding a Treaty with the Tycoon he revisited Shanghai and spent some weeks, arranging the The Taiplng Tiwies and After Disasters. 47- tariff of the new Treaty with China. Mr. Lawrence Oliphant* gives some pleasant vignettes of Shanghai in those old quiet days, while abasing its maladorons fields, hot snn by day and chilly nights in unwholesome September. He describes people "riding or gyrating daily on the race coarse, as though they were being lounged. Those who prefer gossip to exercise frequent the Bund, a broad quay which extends the whole length of the Settlement, and which is crowded with Chiaese porters all the morning, and sprinkled with European ladies and gentlemen in the afternoon. The harmony and- hospitality of Shanghai make it infinitely the most agreeable place of residence in China to the mission." There was a slight outbreak among the coolies on the 2nd September, 1859. These disturbances were caused by rumours that foreigners were kidnapping Chinese and sending them on board a French ship, which was lying at Woosung, taking in coolies for the West Indies. Some of the Chinese on board this ship had risen, and some were shot while attempting to escape. A large mob of excited coolies set upon a man, whom they supposed to be a kidnapper, and nearly beat him to death with bamboos; and on the Reverend Mr. Hobson and Mr. H. N. Lay interfering, the latter was stabbed and his companion obliged to seek refuge in a carpenter's shop, till the police came. The opening of Japan to foreign trade, in this year, gave a consider- able impulse to the commerce of Shanghai, as for some few years supplies of goods for that kingdom were chiefiy obtained from Shanghai. But the approach of the Taipings in 1860, their capture of important cities and towns in this province and Chekiang, made Shanghai a place of refuge for thousands of terrified Chinese. The rich city of Soochow was taken, after scarcely any resistance, on the 29th June of that year, and refugees poured into Shanghai, the Creek being crowded with craft of all descriptions, among which were many large and handsome family boats full of men, women and children with their servants, and such things as they had been able to carry away from their houses. * In his narrative of Lord Elgin's Mission. 48 The Story of Shanghai. Preparations for the defence of the Settlement were com- menced soon after Soochow'had been captured. A Volunteer force was enrolled — the tfld corps which had done so well some years before had been disbanded; — barricades were erected at all the streets which crossed Honan Boad, and the Volnnteers kept guard at them day and night, while the Taipings were near. There was not only danger to the Settlement from the rebels without, but there was danger from within, as the place swarmed with bad and desperate characters, both foreign and native. July passed without any rebels being seen near Shanghai, but on the 18th of August many. fires were blazing to the westward. The Kestrel, H.M. gunboat, and the IVench steamer Hongleong were sent with communications for the rebels at Sungkiang, but before they got to Ming-hong, twenty miles up the river, the Taipings had occupied the buildings of the Jesuits at Sic-ka-wei, which they made their head-quarters. From thence they advanced on the city, and endeavoured to enter the West Gate. They received a warm reception from the English and Indian soldiers who were posted there, and at the South Gate. Until evening the Taipings swarmed about the country near the city, hiding behind graves, beds of rushes, and topes of trees. That night all the houses outside the walls, which would have given shelter to the rebels, were burned down. Next morning a bombastic proclamation from the Taipings was found posted in the city, calling on the people to join them. They had worked their way round almost to the French quarter. The French then fired the houses and warehouses between their Concession and the city walls, burning an immense quantity of valuable property in the most wanton and useless manner. This conflagration burned for several days and until after the Tai- pings had retired from the neighbourhood of Shanghai. While the rebels were near the city a heavy fire was kept up on them from the walls, and soldiers and marines fired on them from several out-looks which had been erected thereabouts, and towards the Settlement. On Monday the rebels advanced in great force along the paths which ran parallel with the city walls ; each soldier The Taiping Times and After Disasters. 49 carrying a flag. They eontinned their march to the English Settlement, and actually placed some flags within two hundred yards of the old race coarse. Bat a few shots and shells made them retreat. During the previous night the despatch-boat Pioneer had gone up the river to above the city, from whence she threw 13-inoh shell among bands of the rebels who were between Sic-ka-wei and Shanghai. And about one o'clock H.M. gunboat Nim/rod begun to fire shells from off the Bund, at parties of them which were advancing towards the Settlement in a line with the present Babbling Well Road. She continued this for two hours, when these rebels retired, but the Pioneer fired until evening, when the rebels returned to Sic-ka-wei. That was the last time the Taipings troubled Shanghai during that year ; on Tuesday they kept quiet, and on the following day Mr. Forrest, then interpreter to the Consulate, rode to their camp, accompanied by an orderly named Phillips. Mr. Forrest was the bearer of a letter to the rebel chiefs, in which they were told that the city of Shanghai was under the protection of the British and French, and that they could not be permitted to enter it. He was civilly received a short distance from the Taiping head-quarters, and invited to visit the leaders; but he declined to do this, and leaving his despatches with the officers at this out-post, rode back to the Settlement. This was a plucky ride, considering the treatment the rebels had received from foreigners daring the previous few days. On the next day Mr. Forrest, accompanied by his officers, returned for the answer to the letter. They found only a few ill-clad soldiers at the rebel camp ; and later in the afternoon some gentlemen riding that way discovered that the rebel host was represented by a few straw staffed figures. The Taipings had retreated into a safer districts, but their reply to the letter which Mr. Forrest had caused to them was received by the foreign authorities shortly afterwards. It was in their usual high flown style, and it asserted that they had been invited to come to Shanghai by foreigners, who assured them they would be welcomed. This may have been the case, as there were many hot-headed, unwise, bat honest supporters of the Taiping cause 60 The Story of Shanghai. in the Settlement besides a large nnmber of utterly unscrupulous men who were interested in the illicit trade in arms. There was some anxiety, but little excitement- in the Settlement during the time when the Taipings were near. Some merchants and foreign banks and wealthy Chinese placed their treasure and valuables on board steamers, tug-boats and the opium receiving-hulks, and others who did not do this hired guards of seamen and others to protect their premises. The difEerent ways in which occasions that were presumed to be alarming were met by foreigners and Chinese was significant of their national characters. Once, after it had been arranged that a certain signal would be made in case of seeming danger, so that the women and children might be taken on board the men-of-war, a great disturbance — firing of gin gals, beating of gongs, and shouting — was heard in the direction of the city, just after dinner. The residents who were unmarried hastened to the Bund, armed with every conceivable weapon ; married men brought their families there, and all calmly awaited the result. It was soon found that the clamour arose from a fight between some of the junk men, and as soon as this was known, people returned to their houses. Bat the frequent panics among the natives were fearful things. As an instance of them : one day an alarm was given in the Maloo that the rebels were at the Bubbling Well, and almost in an instant, crowds of Chinese in that quarter, and the adjacent alleys, fled towards the Bund. Women and children were trampled to death in the mad flight ; men who were carrying oS silver and other valuable left them in their chairs and joined the shrieking, terrified flood of fugitives. Many when they reached the Band rushed into the river and several were drowned. While the British and French were defending Shanghai against the Taipings, their allied forces were attafcking the forts of the Imperial Government on the Peiho, which were taken on the 21st of August. The year 1861 saw a great increase to the commerce of Shanghai from the opening of the Yangtze to foreign trade, as The Taiping Times and After Disasters. 51 far as Hankow. Teas were bought cheaply at that port and at Kiakiang ; imports were sold at all the newly opened ports in large quantities and at favourable prices ; new articles of trade were also discovered. Both foreigners and Chinese entered largely into the new field of business and a demand for steam tonnage on a very large scale soon sprung up. To meet it, all kinds of vessels — some of the earliest types of paddle wheels — were bought and placed on the river. Chinese merchants in many cases became joint owners with the foreigners who managed these crafts, and, as many of the steamers were nearly useless^ the results were in most cases unsatisfactory. Other mercantile firms ordered suitable steamers in Great Britain and America, and in a short time travelling on the river and coast could be accomplished with as much comfort as in any part of the world. And so promising did this branch of the business of the port seem that Messrs. Russell & Co. were able to found the Shanghai Steam Navigation Company in 1862 with a capital of a million of taels, which was subsequently increased to a million and a qaarter, and ultimately to a million eight hundred and seventy- five thousand, although it was an unregistered Company and the liability was unlimited. This was the first great shipping enterprise in which foreigners and Chinese were associated. It built in America many fine steamers to ply on the Yangtze and on the coast. It had a very checquerdd career, was unfortunate in many ways, and, as we shall see, was finally purchased by the Chinese. In this year the Inspector Generalship of Customs was established, Mr. H. N. Lay being appointed to the office by a Decree of Prince Kung, dated the 21st of January. For more than a year the Taipings did not reappear in the neighbourhood of Shanghai. It was rumoured from time to time that they were near at hand and considerable disquiet was felt in the Settlement in autumn. This was increased when Ningpo was taken early in December, almost without a struggle, Hangchow attacked and Chefoo 'taken. At length the rebels made their appearance unexpectedly at Woosung on the 11th of January, 1862. 52 The Story of Shanghai, On the capture of Ningpo becoming known in Shanghai the Volunteers met and formed a corps of Mounted Bangers to act as scouts in the country districts. In a few days a good number of Bangers were enrolled, and Mr. Panmnre Gordon, with whom the suggestion of forming the corps originated, was actively engaged drilling the recruits and their horses, who were soon afterwards changed for the more useful native ponies. This corps, which now numbered some twenty men, was of great service to Sir James Hope in his expedition against the Taipings in 1S62 and the following year. Very alarming rumours became current in the Settlement soon after the rebels appeared at Woosung. The terrified Taotai reported to the Consuls that eighty thousand " long haired men" ^-as the Taipings were called — were coming from Soochow and other cities in that direction. This horde was, he said, to be transported by boats ; another large body was on the march from Hangchow, and a third was approaching iiid Woosung. The artillery of the rebels was soon heard firing at the Pootung side, apparently four or five miles away. Another band, advancing towards the Settlement, captured two towns between Woosung and Shanghai, and at night the skies to the north and west were red with conflagrations. On the 13th January four mounted rebel scouts appeared at the Stone Bridge and murdered two women, and a day or two afterwards a considerable force of them were at the same place. The Settlement was already full of refugees from Ningpo, Soochow and other cities, but it was obliged to receive the stream of fugitives which now poured in. So great was the influx of strangers into Shanghai, that the cost of living had increased about 400 per cent, in 1862. Sir James Hope arrived in Shanghai on the 15th January and at once took the defences of the Settlement in hand, in which he was assisted by a Committee of residents. There were only 860* men of the Pnnjaub N.I.,t 1,000 French troops, and a * Inthe course of the Spring H.M.'s 67th, 99th and 5th Bomhay N.I. BeglmentB arrived, and the fleet was also reinforced. + TThe graves of many of these Indian soldiers and men from other English regiments lie under the East side of the City Wall. The Taiping Tv^ee and After Disasters. 63 small force of Volunteers in Shanghai. The naval force was also small, and consisted of H.M.S. Iimperieuae, the iSag-ship, one steam-sloop of war and two gnn-boats. The rebels were prevented taking the field by a heavy fall of snow, early in January, which lasted fifty-eight hours and covered the Settlement and country to the depth of three feet in many places. Their reinforcements which was coming by the creeks, and those which were marching by land, were delayed, and the force at Woosnng was ordered to fall back on Nanking. The Admiral and the residents took advantage of this delay ; the ordinary vocations of almost all foreigners were suspended for a time, and by the end of January the defences were complete. There were two lines of defence to the westward. On the inner, the Honan Road, wooden barricades strengthened by earthworks, were erected as in 1860 ; and a stronger and new one was placed in the Maloo, with smaller ones at the lanes leading from the lines, while a half battery of artillery was stationed on the cefltre of this line of defence. The outer line was from the Sooohow Creek to the City, and on it the Defence Creek was made or greatly deepened and widened. On that linfi large ear^ohen mounds were constructed at short distances from each other ; the first of them being near the Soochow Creek, and 4 rota it there ran southward a parapet of mnd seven feet high, six feet wide at the top, and seven feet at the bottom, and guns.' were planted on it at every favourable spot. The entire length of this parapet was three-quarters of a mile, and it was considered that six hundred men, with a cannon, could hold it agamst any force the Taipings could bring. the Taotai offered to defray the cost of the defences, bat his cj&er was refused, from dislike on the part of the community to a/llow him to have anything to do with the Settlement, beyond coljJecting his dnes in it ; and a similar offer from the principal Ghtinese bankers was also declined. The snow had disappeared from the country by the middle of! February, and the Taipings took the field again, and the coJmmanders of the foreign forces at once began active operations ag^ainst them. I may mention a few of these. 54 The Story of Skh^^^j^^i^ One time the French cleared L^^^ ^-^^^ ^^^^ ^^g^ 3l^gU^ ^ large body of rebels who had attached a village opposite the city, with the object of seizing a nil j^^i^g^ ^f j^jj]j.g ^j^jcj^ ^gj.e lying there and making a bridge of Lga^tg ^f them, over which they ooald march to the attack of V gj^g^^jg^jg^i On another occasion a party of British and Frcnchl ^^^^.-^gg ^^^ blne-jaokets supported Ward,* with sis hundred oft; ^^^ disciplined Chinese in an attack on a large intrenched villaL^ -^^ Pootung, and some four or five miles down the river. FlnsCg^ ^-^^^ ^-^ese successes, the Taotai at once began executing bam jg ^^ Taiping prisoners in the city. The next important enter ^^^^^^ ^^^ against a large village inland, and opposite to Ming-1 [^^^^ ^^^^^-^ 37Q British and French sailors and marines captui ^.^^ During March and April the allied forces and Ward's men , ^^^^ actively engaged,: and the Mounted Rangers did good sert^igg_ rp^^, ^^^^^ ^^^^^ of stockades were taken early in Apri.;j ^^ Wong-ka-dza and Lu-ka-dong— places between Chepoo and\ yg,]^.^.^^^^^ . ^^^ j^ these operations, besides 842 British and Wgnch sailors and marines, 991 soldiers of British and Indian Vg^j^g^tg mider Stavely, were engaged. In the first of theY engagements Admiral Hope was wounded in the leg. Chao-jj^ Kah-dinff Tseng-pn, Nan-jao and Cho-lin, all fortified pl^cesX -ij^- „},„_(. distances of Shanghai, were taken in rapid succession., UofQ-g j.i,. end of April; and in May Captain Roderick Dew, \f -g- tit g Encounter, with his sailors and some of Ward's force, r^ the city of Ningpo for the Imperialists. Admiral Protet fell at Nan-jao ; while directing the^ „*■(■„„]£ he was shot through the breast and died at half -past six L. ii same evening, the 17th May. His remains were I'l'O'igli^'Vbaek to Shanghai and lay in state for a few days in a Ghwpelle «*'^7g«*g in the hospital, previous to being interred in a tomb in Vij^ grounds of the French Consulate. The obsequies took place\ the 26th May, when the ships of war in port fired minute guL * Ward was an American soldier of fortune who had led a roving 1 He had apparently some idea of founding an Empire in the East, when L came to China, but in the meantime he had drilled, and commanded,!''* force of Chinese. They were known after this as "The Ever VictoribSi?', Army." l'" bcaptured The Tailing Times and After Disasters. 55 in the morning. ,The Consals, the officers of the British, French and Russian men-of-war and the officers of the English Regiments, all in fall nniform, with many foreign residents, assembled at the French Naval Hospital at half-past seven a.m. From thence the body was born to St. Joseph's Chnrch, where the Taotai and many mandarins were present while a grand martial mass was performed. Admiral Prntet's services to China were recognised in the Feldng Gazette of the 11th Jane, 1862, in which Li Hung-chang, then Fatal or Governor of this province, was commanded to appoint a Taotai and a Prefect to present the Emperor's " sacrifice to the manes of the departed officer." Therefore, on the morning of the 7th of Augnst, the Taotai, and some fifteen officials, of good rank, went to the French Chnrch and there listened to a mass, similar to that which had been performed at the obsequies of the Admiral. A large number of French officials and H.M.'s Consul and Vioe- Consal were present. The Edict having been read aloud by the "District Magistrate of Chang-chow, Reader of the Imperial Will,'' an oblation, or sacrifice, was performed. What the nature of the sacrifice was is not stated.* A statue of the Admiral was placed in the grounds of the Municipal Hall, and unveiled on 6th December, 1870. The successes of the allies roused the Taipings to greater exertions. A large force was sent from Nanking, under the command of one of their boldest and most successful leaders, the Chung-wang , or Faithful King. Kahding was abandoned by the allies; the troops, which bad been holding it, falling back on Shanghai; and Tsing-pu was destroyed by Ward before he left it. These events canse^ great alarm again among the Chinese in the district near Shanghai, and immense crowds hurried into the Settlement. The rebels again appeared within sight of the Settlement in Angust, and the smoke by day and illumination of the sky by night proclaimed their ruthless progress. The condition of afEairs in Shanghai during autumn may be imagined from the fact, that, besides hundreds of thousands who were housed in * North-CUiM Herald, 9th April, 1862. 66 The Story of Shanghai. some way or other, there were then ten thousand refugees living in the old race course. And one writer affirms that in an afternoon stroU he saw from forty to fifty thousand men, women and children, encamped in that neighbourhood and adjacent to it.* The change which the events between 1860 and the time I am writing of had inade in the Settlement is well shewn by the following. In 1859 there were some 20,000 Chinese in the Settlement, but this number had grown to at least 500,000,t and one speaker at a meetiug of Landrenters pat them at 700,000, which is probably an exaggeration. It is no wonder that cholera, fever, dysentery and other diseases afflicted the Settlement in 1862, killing large numbers of the residents; decimating the naval and military forces and committing terrible ravages among the Chinese. J A great expedition of 4,000 English, Trench and disciplined Chinese, with twenty guns and ten mortars re-captured Kahding at the end of October, after a brave resistence by the Taipings. In this affair Admiral Hope and General Staveley commanded the British, and Greneral Burgevine,§ the disciplined Chinese or Ever Victorious Army, in place of Ward, who had been recently killed at Tzu-chee, about twenty-five miles from Ningpo. Li Hung-chang and Burgevine continued to be very active in the field after this, the former with conspicuous success ; while a large force of Chinese, under two French officers, recaptured many important places in Chekiang from the rebels. So far as Shanghai was concerned there was henceforth no ground for anxiety on account of the rebels, whose power was being broken everywhere. But it required the military genius of Colonel Gordon, to compel the rebels to take refuge in their last stronghold at Nanking. * North-China Herald, 30th August, 1862. f Speech of the Chairman of the Municipal Council at the meeting of Landrenters on 15th April, 1865. t The heat was so great in 1862 that hostilities were suspended for some months. § In Ward's time the disciplined Chinese force was a mere rabble officered for the most part by rowdies. Burgevine was a, man of better class than Ward, having studied for the Artillery at West Point. The Tat]}ing Times and After Diiasters, 67 When Admiral Hope went home, at the expiry of his command, in November, the leading merchants in Shanghai presented him with a letter expressing their thanks for his exertions in restoring tranquility to this province. It was mainly by his policy that the thirty miles radius, round, Shanghai, within which the rebels were prohibited from coming, was established, and the excellent roads into the country were made. Early in 1863 General Bnrgevine, after a quarrel with the Governmeut banker in Shanghai, who would not furnish the pay of the Ever Victorious Army, marched with a small body- gaard through the Settlement and obtained the money. This high-handed action caused a good deal of excitement at the time and Bnrgevine was shortly afterwards dismissed. After an interval Colonel Gordon, R.B., was appointed to the command. The mandarins had tried to plnce a certain Li-ai-dong — a good soldier — and our old friend Wa Sam-qua, in command of the force, but the officers and men refused to obey them. The Lay-Osborne fleet arrived in China this year, and for having exceeded his instructions, Mr. Lay was dismissed from the Chinese service, and Mr. Robert, now Sir Robert Hart, was appointed to succeed him. The Mixed Court was established about the middle of this year, in premises within the British Consulate grounds. It shewd how the number of firms not British had increased, that the style and title of the Chamber of Commerce was changed in 1863 from the Shanghai British to the Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce. In 1863 a memorial to the Governor of Kiangsu was pre- sented by a large number of merchants, requesting authority to construct a line of railway from Shanghai to Soochow, which was at once refused. Another proposal for the line to Woosung was negatived about the same time. A London Company after- wards proposed to make a line from the neighbourhood of the bridge over the Soochow Creek, thence, following the driving road, to Woosung, thence by Kahding, Taitsan and Quinsan to the east gate of Soochow. This was to be at- first a single line. 58 The Story of Shanghai. The cost was estimated at Tls. 1,760,000 for the 62 miles, to ■which Tls. 380,000 was to be added for termini, iron bridges, &c., making a total of Tls. 2,140,300; and receipts were put down at Tls. 282,510 a year; expenses at Tls. 108,400, leaving net profits of Tls. 174,110, or 7f per cent, per annum. The inflated prosperity of Shanghai received its deathblow when Colonel Gordon captured Soochow on the 27th November, 1863. Bat no one seems to have seen that that event would have any efiect in the fortunes of the Settlements. Their residents believed that the Chinese who had taken refuge among them, so thoroughly appreciated foreign ways, and the safety and protection they had received, that they would not return to their own cities. It was not until the houses in almost whole streets were empty, and rents had fallen fifty per cent., that foreigners saw the fallacy of the hopes with which they had deluded themselves. The Chinese who returned to Soochow soon showed how little foreigners understood them. There were rumours afloat among the natives in that city, in 1864, that foreigners were to be allowed to live and trade in it, and a petition was presented to Li Hung-chang against this. It was therein stated that the Chinese who had lived in Shanghai had been subjected to the annoyance of being obliged to attend to sanitary regalations, such as keeping the purlieus of their houses free from filth, and clean enough to satisfy the police inspector s Other innovations on the ancient unclean habits of the Chinese people were referred to, and fears were expressed that if foreigners came among them they would give trouble in these matters. So mach for Chinese appreciation of Western comforts and sanitation. The French troops, which had taken part in the operation against the rebels, were withdrawn early in the year, owing to disturbances in Saigon. At the beginning of 1864 we find the residents of the Settlement congratulating themselves on the improvement in the conditions of the place, compared with what it had been in the winter of 1861-62. At the latter time the streets were crowded with people, many of whom lay down at night with the The Tavping Times and After Disasters. 59 certainty of death before the momiag. Since then hpnses had been built to accommodate all the refugees, and means had been found to ameliorate the conditions of the poorer people. Suffer- ing and starvation did not now intrude themselves on notice. The Budget of the Municipal Council for 1864-65 was passed on the most extravagant scale. It is sujficient to say that it was proposed to expend Tls. 457,000, as against Tls. 239,000 in the previous year. The Council, and the community, still believed that the exceptional prosperity of the place would not only continue but increase. Recklessness had now culminated in Shanghai. The proposals of the Council alarmed the great land- owners ; and Sir Harry Parkes informed the Landrenters that the new taxes which had been proposed could not be raised without the consent of the Taotai, who had already objected to two of them. Ultimately the estimate of the Council for Police purposes was cut down one half, and to enable it to defray its liabilities a loan of Tls. 90,000 was allowed; to be guaranteed by, several mercantile firms; the Manicipality having no credit at the time. Trade was unsatisfactory, on the whole, in 1864,* but the speculative mania contiaued. The condition of the Settlement had become scandalous ; Sir Harry Parkes stated, at a meeting of Landrenters, that out of 10,000 Chinese houses on it there were 668 houses of ill-fame — that is one in sixteen — not including opium shops, , while of tea houses and other places of entertainment, there was abundance of vice, which he said, was quite unrestrained. The Settlements continued to be infested by foreign and Chinese scoundrels, who committed all kinds of outrages. It was when all prudent persons foresaw evil days, for Shanghai, and that these were near at hand, that the HXmes published a leading article in which it gave a glowing picture of the trade of the port and the prosperity of the Settlement. It said that the present El Dorado of commercial men seemed to * The Customs duties paid at Shanghai in 1864 were 20 per cent, less than in 1863. 60 The Story of Shanghai. be China. And of Shanghiai it stated that some years before there was " an undeveloped Settlement caiUed ShaJnghai, the land whereof was of such minute value that a merchant could easily attach a deer park to his house." An exaggeralted descrip- tion of one or two spacious compounds which then existed. And, following this, was an account of the port in 1864: "Sir Frederick Bruce 'has just reported that in three years the import 'trade of Shanghai had risen from 'thirteen to tWenty-seven millions ; * * • the decks of the steamers are now crowded with Chinese passengers, and their holds are filled with 'prodnbe, destined, not for foreign export, but for Chinese consumption. Surely Shanghai was an Elysium to the imagination of penni- less young plodders who have mastered the art of book-keeping and learned to calculate exchange." A grea;t nrtmber of adven- turers, and seekers for fortune, came to Shanghai in the autumn of that year, only to be bitterly disappointed. The Shanghai Club and the G-eneral Hospitail were opened in this year. The Club had be^n along time building, its design and furniture were extravagant and it was destined to misfor- tune, before it attained its present safe position. Its airchitectnre has been described as "the true debased and carpenteresque style." The Royal Asiatic Society was resuscitated in 1864, after three years dormancy, and the first Debating Society was established. The effects of the speculatrre trading tii the previous two op three years were shewn by the failure of some large firms in the spring of 1866. The Volnnteeirs found themselves in difficulties in the autumn, owing to a large demand being 'made upon them for the cost of rifles, guns, uniforms and general equipment which their former commandant had purchased. Also the men did not attend drill, and the numbers on the roll had fallen off, but, instead of disbanding, the corps elected Sir Edmund Hornby, the Chief Justice, to the command, and resolved to maintain the force. One good thing, at least, was done this year by the Muni- cipal Councils of the Settlement and theErenoh Concession, i.e., the closing of the gambling houses, which had been doing so The Taijpingx Times an6L After Disasters. 6L much harm. The; Chinese ap-thorities had long urged that this step shoald be taken, and: early in the year the Mnnicipal Council for the Settlement drove the proprietors of the houses away. These men took refuge in the French Concession ; the Council of which was ultimately, but only in deference to public opinion, obliged to close the gambling dens. H.B.M.'s Court for China and Japan was established this year. The foundation stone of the Masonic Hall, on the Bund, was laid, with great ceremony, on the 3rd March. Towards the close of this year a well meant, but premature, undertaking was perforce, abandoned. Mr. E. A. Keynolds had erected a telegraph to the Kintoan beacon with which he proposed to make known the movements of shipping at the mouth of the river. The country folk tore down the posts, and petitioned the Taotai that they should not be erected again, as they spoiled the Fing-iJmi. One man had already sickened and died, they said, without any apparent cause. These views were adopted by the Taotai in a letter to the British Consul, in which he said that no compensa- tion would be claimed, nor would the posts be allowed to be put np again. Much attention was given in 1866 to Municipal affairs which were improving, to the taxation of the Chinese who lived within the Settlement, and new or modified Land Begnlations were framed and sent to Peking. It was the general opinion in the Settlement early in this year that Shanghai, and the China trade generally, had sur- mounted the depression oiE 1865, but unfortunately these hopes were not realised. " Black Friday," and other as ominous days, occurred in London, and in a short time six out of the eleven foreign banks which had branches in Shanghai suspended pay- ment, and others were crippled. Most of the Joint Stock Companies which had been formed in Shanghai since 1862 disappeared into liquidation or changed owners in these gloomy times. And the depression from which trade, and all enterprise, suffered was increased when the house of Dent & Co. found itself unable to meet its engagements. It had occupied a foremost position since the opening of the 62 Th6 Story of Shanghai. China trade to private mercliants, and its partners had been identified with.' some of the most stirring events in Canton, before the war of 1841. ' The New and Present Shanghai. 63 CHAPTER VI. THE NEW AND PRESENT SHANGHAI. Affaies in tlie Settlement improved in 1867, and we are told that life in it was pleasanter, as the residents cheerfully met the altered times and sought their pleasure and recreation in quieter ways than formerly. Gardening and floriculture became a pretty general passion, and there would have been a flower show if the ladies' committee could have agreed upon where it should be held. The Public Gardens, on what was then called the Consular mud-flat,* were making this year and were handed over to the Municipal Council on the 8th of August, 1868. People began to build houses on the Bubbling Well Road, and to live there. Considerable additions were made to the public buildings in the Settlement ; a new Theatre, a Mixed Court, a Seaman's Chapel at Pootnng were built, and the Masonic Hall was opened. Gas had been introduced into the Settlements and the French side late on the previous year, and its use was increasing, and the better lighting of the streets, the greater efficiency of the police, and the diminution in the size of compounds led to the dis- appearance of the watchmen who perambulated round the houses and other premises at night, looking for thieves with a lantern and striking a piece of large bamboo loudly at intervals, as they still do in Chinese towns and cities. These were all signs of vigour ; but, on the other hand, the Volunteers at last succumbed to the indifference which had been weakening the spirit and * The mud-flat was originally caused by the sinking of a small brig . or other vessel there, in the early days of the Settlement. The wreck was not rai sed and mud rapidly accumulated. An old resident told me that he has often rowed between the wreck and the then line of the Bund. 64 The Story of Shanghai. nnmbers of the corps, since the close of the great rebellion.* Bat it cannot be said to have completely died oat, as a Rifle Corps sprang from it. Again, the Shanghai Clab, which, with the Charch, was the most striking example of the extravagant ideas that prevailed among the community a few years before, now fell into such serious difiBcnltiea that it was closed in August, and only reopened' on the 1st October, on a new basis. In 1867 the buildings for the Arsenal at Kau Chang Mian — the Elevated Effulgent Temple, which is known to us as the Kiangnan Arsenal — were commenced. A few years before, just after the close of- the rebellion, Li Hnng-chang ordered the establishment of an arms factory, or foundry, in Shanghai, and a machine shop in Hongkew was purchased for the purpose. These premises had become too small, and therefore some six acres of ground, about three miles above the city, were acquired) and the fittings and other material' removed' to the new premises as soon as they were completed. Prom a little factory for repairing rifles and casting guns, shot and shell, this establishment has grown into an immense arsenal and dockyard; capable, if worked to its utmost capacity, of supplying ships and war material of every description. It has a yard for wooden ship-baildings where two frigates and half-a-dozen gunboats, large and small, were built and fitted oat ; an iron ship-yard with costly and ponderous machinery capable of building modern ironclads of large size, but from -which only a miniature ironclad; nicknamed by foreigners the Terror of Western Nations, and two iron gunboats, have as yet been launched. There is a Marine Engine Department, which has already supplied the engines of. the ships that have been built at the Arsenal and repaired the engines of many others. There is a large dry dock which can take in ships of nearly 400 feet in length, and which has already done most efficient service for the Chinese navy. Sometimes there have been four or five steamers waiting their turn ta be docked. Going back from the river * The corps owed Tls. 300, and the members resolved to sell as many rifles as would m?,ke up this sum, and to call for more subscriptions. The corps was to remain in abeyance. The New and P-rese.nt Shanghai. ^5. front there are various shops, for general work. The rifle factory, which has hitherto only tamed out Bremiugtpn rifles, of, American pattern, is a large building with every applia,nce. for producing rifles at the rate of several dozen per day easily, and; many more under pressure. Much work is being done by hand; in this department, for wliich costly machines are standing idle, though specially purchased for the worl?. It is some years since any foreigner was connected with this branch. There is also a general foundry where all the large and, small casting in iron, brass and copper are made ; a, torpedo factory, with beautiful, and delicate , machinery, was hastily established when, trouble with France was looming in the distance, but it has never done much work. Leaving the main body of the Arsenal, there are two large, departments, on the eastern side. One is a gun faqtory, where will be found as large and complete a plant for the manufapture, of heavy rifled ordnance as anywhere in the world. The; enormous lathes, boring and; rifling maphines, coiling machine^, steam hammer, of seven tons, etc., must be seen in active, operation to be understood. This department is now making " disappearing guns," one of which was successfully tried a. few weeks ago, under the superintendence of Mr. W. E. Cornish, who was many years at the Els wick faqtory. A. large proqf; xuound and the other accompaniments of a proof range for heavy ordnance have been in use for many years, by the side qf the river. The other department on the eastern side is fpr, shot and, shell ; here one may see missiles of all sorts and sjzes, ranging, up to 750-lb. weight, in various stages of making. A certain, weight of metal is cast every day, which might perhaps, easily) be trebled in amount. On the western side, ahout three miles distant, and near the Loong-wha pagoda, stands the cartridge factory. This, in itself,, is as large as the factories for similar purposes, in England, There is machinery for making all kinds of rifle cartridges at the rate of tens of thousands per day, but only that portion which makes the Eemington cartridges is in use. Thp copper or metal sheaths of the percussion caps are all ma^e and filled on the 66 The Story of Shanghai. premises, as well as tke ballets. There are also elaborate macbines for making Gatling and other large cartridges. The gunpowder works are well laid out, after the most approved foreign methods. There are twelve incorporating mills, with all the necessary plant accompanying them, capable of turning out an almost incredible amount of gunpowder, if worked night and day. The materials used are mostly imported from. Europe. One interesting feature at the Arsenal is the Educational Department. The schools for interpreters, one for English, now taught by Dr. Suvoong, and the other for French under Professor Alphonse Bottu, have been in existence for nearly twenty years, and have sent out various students to the Peking College, and to different official positions. The department for the translation of scientific books has been at work since the establishment of the Arsenal. Mr. John Fryer has had charge since the commencement, and he, with others, have been engaged for more than twenty years in the laborious task of preparing an Encyclopssdia of standard treatises in the China language. There is a stafE of writers, block-cutters and printers who are able to publish the various works in the best Chinese fashion, and the books are sold in considerable numbers at cost price. Mr. Fryer has been awarded the third brevet degree of civil rank in recognition of his services. The expenses attending the establishment and maintenance of the Kiangnan Arsenal have, of course, been enormous. A portion of the receipts of the Imperial Maritime Customs at Shanghai is regularly set aside for its use. Many. foreigners — at one time as many as twelve — have been employed from time to time in the various engineering and mechanical departments, but three are now found sufficient. The management is in the hands of a native director, two sub-directors, and a number of petty officials. To stand and watch the crowd of workmen pass out of the gates of the different departments^ when the signal is given to stop work, will give one an idea of the magnitude of the place. Everything is now on a peace footing; only enough is spent to keep the plant and workmen in working order ready for any The New and Present Shanghai. 67 emergency. In case of war the nnmber of men employed would Boon be trebled or quadrupled, and tlie weekly out-pat would be greatly increased. The native workmen shew a wonderful aptitude in picking up foreign ideas and using foreign machines and tools. It is even said that the work turned out in some parts of this Arsenal, even under disadvantageous circumstances, compares favourably, both as to the quality and cost, with what is done in arsenals in foreign countries. The Kiangnan Arsenal seems to be a sort of stepping-stone to higher posts, for three of its Directors have been sent as Ministers to foreign countries, while those in lower position have been drafted to many important positions in the home and foreign services. There are other arsenals in China. That at Foochow covers more ground, but has not done so much effective work ; those at Canton, Hangchow, Tientsin, Tsinan-fu and Ching-tu are growing but slowly, as they are not in such favourable localities as Shanghai and Foochow. The first English Church erected in Shanghai had become so delapidated by 1862 that the rain often came in through chinks of the roof, the wind frequently blew away tiles and portions of the roof fell into the pews. It was taken down in that year, and a temporary place of worship erected in the compound. Many of the ragged and tattered books which were afterwards transferred to the Cathedral are still drifting about its desks. And, as a writer at the time when the Cathedral was opened said, no one can read some of the inscriptions without a thrill. "No marble monuments, blazoned with escutcheons and graven with inscriptions are half so full of deep and pathetic interest as these bibles, with a mother's blessing on the page, or the record of sisterly regard in ink long since paled and faded." And old residents are occasionally reminded of friends dead and gone or passed out of memory by the appearance of a name on one of these books. In 1864 plans for a new Church were obtained from Sir Gilbert Scott, R.A., which were modified by Mr. Wm. Kidner, a. local architect, partly on account of the expense which they would have involved, and partly for climatical reasons. Bat, 6S The Story of Shanghai. notwithstanding ttis prudential care, the Charch waiS perhaps^ the moat signal instance of the extravagant ideas ■whicli pre- vailed in the community at the time when the plans of the architects were adopted. The foundation^ stone of the new edifice was laid on the 16th May, 1866, with great Masonic ceremonies, but the want of sufficient funds hindered the; pro- gress of the building. Indeed, it was completed with great difficulty, and at one time it seemed likely that work on it would be altogether suspended for want of money, or that if it; was finished it would be held by the contractors* until their debt was discharged. But a yigorous efBort was made and; liberal subscriptions were obtained ; part of the compound was let on lease, the rents of it np to 1884i were advanced: by the lessee and the Charch was opened for public worship on the let of August,. 1869.t The style of, the Cathedral, for snoh it became on Trinity' Sunday 1876, is Gothic of the early partof the thirteenth century; the.buildipg.is cruciform. ^r^d, consists of a nave, north and. south aisljes, tr^^ng^pts, chancel, with apsidal sanctuary, and two small chapels for an organ chamber and vestry. The total length of the interior is 162 feet, and the width across nave and aisleai 68 feet 6 inches, while theheight from the floor to the apexj of the nave roof is, 54 feet* The aisles are entirely surrounded by an open arcade,, carried on granite shafts, with brick piers and buttresses between the bays. A tower, for the erection of which sufficient funds have not yet been raised, forms part of Sir Crilbert Scott's plans. Early in 1875 the subscribers to Trinity Church, who have the management of its affairs, through trustees, of whom they, elect two, while H.M.'s Consul-General is ex officio another, passed a resolution authorising the trustees to communicate, with the newly-appointed Bishop of North-China, the Rev. W. A. Russell, as to the erection of the Church into his Cathedral, * Messrs. C. S. Farnham & Co. t The cost of the former and present organ was defrayed by public subscription ; the first was presented by Sir Rutherford and Lady Alcocfc, and the lectern by Sir Edmund Hornby. The altar clbth, pulpit and' books for the reading desk were gifts of members of the Church. The New and Present Shanghai. 69 afld empowered them to take the steps which might be necessary 'to that end. .The Bishop " selected and assigned " the Ohnroh as the Cathedral for his diocess of North-China, and the ceremony of ^nthroriing him took place as already mentioned. The pablie inatrnment of record of the transactions is in a declaration made before the Chief Jastice of the Sapreme Court on the 23rd May, 18/6.* On his installation the Bishop appointed the Rev. Canon Batoheif Dean of the 0&.thedral and the Rev. Mr. McOlatohie Canon, which were admirable and J)opnlar appointments. Trinity Church received from its first erection, or frota soon afterwards, an annual grant from the British Government of five hundred pounds, but in 1858 its funds were in so flourishing a condition tliat nearly nine hundred pounds had accumulated, which it was intended should form the nucleus of a building fund for a new church. H.M.'s Government then withdrew the grant, but at the same time intimated their willingness to subscribe towards the cost of a new church, and this they did by contributing two thousand pounds, and it is be- cause of this and its previous annual grant that H.B.M.'s Consul is one of the trustees. When the trustees were greatly in Want of money to complete the new church, they addressed the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, through the Consul and the Minister at Peking, requesting him .to obtain for them a donation of fifteen hundred pounds. But Lord Clarendon enrtly replied that ''H.M.'s Government could not grant further assist- ance towards the expense of the erection of a church or the maintenance of a church establishment for the benefit of a 'wealthy British community like that at Shanghai." The reference to the maintenance of a church establishment in Shanghai was to the Government grants to chapels and chaplains at Consular ports in China, which the Secretary of State had a short time before directed Sir Rutherford Alcock * The anccessor of Bishop Russell would not take the Cathedral on the same terms, that is, that he should have the building as his Cathedral during his term of office in life ; he required that it should be vested in him and his successors, which the Trustees would not listen to. 70 The Story of Shanghai. to look into, and to report on the circamstances of each chapel. Sir Rutherford Alcock supported the appeal of, the Shanghai trasteea. In the course of 1869 the Shanghai Chamber of Commerce was in almost constant correspondence with Sir Rutherford Alcock on the proposed revision of the Treaty with China, which has not yet taken place. It also despatched a mission of Messrs. Francis and Mitchie to examine into the trade of the Upper Yangtze, and, on their return, these gentlemen pre- sented a very interesting report. Baron Riohtofen was assisted in his exploration both by the Chamber and the community,* and a few years before some merchants of Shanghai defrayed Mr. T. T. Cooper's expenses in his attempt to reach India through Tibet. His Royal Highness the Duke of Edinbnrghf arrived outside Woosung on the 21st October, in command of H.M.S. Galatea, and came up to Shanghai next day in the steamer Moyune. He received an address signed by 350 residents of all nationalities, attended the regatta, took part in other amusements, and was present at a ball given in his honour at the Club, and left on the 26th for the South. It was in 1869 that the Duke of Somerset applied the epithet of " a sink of iniquity " to Shanghai. The iniquity was commercial, and the authorities on whom His Grace relied were naval ofiBcers, who could scarcely have known anything about the merchants of Shanghai, except as recipients of their hospi- tality. The Chamber of Commerce referred the question of ofiBcially noticing the Duke's language to its committee, some of the community proposed to memorialise the Foreign Secretary on the subject, but common sense prevailed, and the matter was allowed to drop. Sir Edmund Hornby, in delivering judgment in a case bore emphatic testimony to the morality of Shanghai. There were several missionary troubles in various parts of China in 1868 and 1869. Those at Tangchow occurred in the * The Chamber subscribed Tls. 500 and the community Tls. 5,000. t H.R.H. had previously visited Peking, where the officials had com- pletely ignored his presence. The New and Present Shanghai, 71 former year, and reparation was obtained by tbe vigour of Mr. Consul Medburst, who went to Nanking in tbe Binaldo and ultimately attained redress from the Viceroy Tseng Kno-fan. About the same time a somewhat similar afEair occurred at Tai- wan, which was settled by gunboat intervention ; in 1869 missionaries in Foochow, Shantung, Szeohuan and Anhui were molested and injured, and some of the French priests were murdered in Szechnan, and the Eev. J. Williamson was murdered in his boat in the Grand Canal near Tientsin. In addition to this outrages on missionaries other foreigners were attacked near Shanghai, for early in March a party of five gentlemen who were walking in Pootung were set upon by a large number of villagers and severely handled. It was elicited during the examination of these villagers that a fortune-teller from Tang- chow was in the village at the time, and it is probable he had incited the attack. Also a French gentleman and his wife were assaulted when returning from the hills. All these things pointed to a widespread animosity to foreigners, but the most atrocious one occurred at Tientsin in 1870. Before that occurred M. Rochechonart, the French Charge d'AfPaires at Peking, went up the Yangtze with a squadron and exacted compensation for most of the outrages on Catholic mis- sionaries which had pccurred in 1869. It was supposed that what Mr. Medhnrst had done at Yangchow and M. Rochechonart in the Yangtze provinces would insure good treatment to the mis- mionaries, but the literati and gentry — the dangerous classes in China — continued to excite the people with all the old stories of kidnapping and killing and mutilating children to make medicine with their eyes and hearts, or, as Sir Thomas Wade curiously and concisely put it, for unholy purposes. There was great excitement against the Catholic missionaries in Nanking in June, but Ma Sin-i, the Viceroy, suppressed it. At Yang- chow also and other places the same feeling was shewn. On the 2l8t of June a mob, led or directed by Chinese officers, burned the French Consulate, the Cathedral and the hospital of the Sisters, all within the city of Tientsin. The 72 The Story of Shanghai. Prenoli Consul was killed — literally cut to pieces near the Governor's house, — so was his Secretary, whose remains were scarcely recognisable, and nineteen other foreigners, including ten Sisters of Mercy, three Roman Catholic priests and a Russian merchant and his wife, who were apparently mistaken for French people, and several children were smothered in the home. The barbarities committeid on the Sisters excited the horror of the civilised world. The mob was chiefly composed of, soldiers, who were incited and directed by a General Ching Kuo-jui who escaped all punishment for his doings that day.* The Governor Chung Ho* could have prevented these atrocities, but he was afraid to take action against the mob. I do not think, as many did at the time, that the authorities encouraged the rioters, but they were accessories before the murder. The stories about kidnapped children were the apparent means of exciting the mob, but the people were further influenced by hearing what had been done at Tangchow by the French, while the secrecy "with which the Sisters of Mercy conducted their institution, their habit of paying the parents of children to bring them for baptism, sometimes when the infants were in the article of death, had made them thoroughly unpopular among the populace who hated and feared them.f The war with Germany prevented France from acting as she would no doubt have done under other circumstances, and eventually she was content to accept a considerable sum of money and to receive Chung How as a special apologetic envoy. The news of the Tientsin massacre excited horror among all foreigners in China, but, it is to be feared, it gave general satisfaction to the natives. Intelligence of it spread like wild fire all over the empire. In Shanghai Volunteers were enrolled at once, the Fire Brigade joined them, and within a month five hundred men were drilling. Fortunately the anti-foreign party * Thia man had been dismissed from a military command in Szechuan at the instance of M. Kochechouart, hence his leading the rioters against the French. t It was acknowledged in an Imperial Edict that the charge against the Sisters of buying children and making away with them had been found to be false. The New and Present Shanghai. 73 contented itself with posting up a few hostile and threatening placards, and as the authorities ranged themselves on the side of order the excitement soon died away. Bat the Volunteers have not been allowed to decay ; they are still maintained in an effective state. There has only been one occasion, since 1870, when it was necessary to call on the Volunteers, and they were then of great service. ■ A riot occurred in the French Concession on Sunday, the ,3rd of May, 1874 ; one of those affairs which our neighbours in Shanghai have had the ill-fortune to provoke in China. On the morning of that day a large number of Chinese attacked the French Inspector of Roads and his family, near the Ningpo Temple, broke into the neighbouring house, the dwelling of Miss Maclean, a missionary lady, when they threw down stairs, but on her calling out in Chinese that she was not French the rioters desisted from maltreating her. The mob then proceeded to burn down some stables and Chinese houses near by., Eight natives were killed in the riot in the morning, and matters looked so serious in the evening that men were landed from the French gun-vessel Couleuvre, and from the United States despatch steamer Ashuelot ; the Volunteers were called out, foreigners received arms in the Municipal hall, which were served out to them by the Council, and a hundred and fifty Chinese soldiers were sent from the city. Everything was quiet by midnight. These riots were ostensibly caused by the French Municipal Council beginning to lay out two roads which ran past the temple. The Chinese objected that the roads would desecrate an old graveyard, the graves in which had been levelled when the French burned the suburb, thirteen years before. But the Chinese argued that the tradition of the place had not been lost, that it was still sacred. It is, however, very likely that the memory of the destruction of their property in the conflagration of 1860 still rankled in the minds of the Chinese, and was the real cause of the outbreak. The French Consul-General showed great imbicility, he promptly betook himself to a place of safety, leaving his 74 The Story of Shanghai. compafcriots and others to look after themselves and the security of the Concession. And on the day after the rioting he issued a notification which virtually conceded everything the Chines© demamded^ The Municipal Council refused to reconsider the question of the roads, till the tendency to rioting had disappeared and compensation had been made. Further, it expressed its opinion that the riots might have been avoided if the Consul-" General had taken a more energetic attitude. Nearly all the unofficial Frenchmen and Swiss protested against his conduct, on which he petulantly withdrew his consular protection from the latter. The changes which had taken place in the Settlement, and on its relations to the outer world, since 1870, have been consi- derable, but they have been quietly e:Sected. The place was put in telegraphic communication with all parts of the globe to which there are cables and lines in 1871 ; telephones and electric lights liave been introduced, and other improvements carried Out. The business of the port has undergone considerable change. For instance, the year 1872 saw the commencement of the China Merchants' Steam Navigation Company, by the purchase of the Aden, which was the first steamer to leave Shanghai under the Chinese flag. This company had been formed shortly before, by the favour of Li Hung-chang, Viceroy of Chihli. One of his objects in founding it was to train sailors for the fleet he intended to build ; another was to obtain the freight which was paid on the tribute rice ; another to shew the world that Chinese merchants were able to manage such com- panies as well as foreigners could, and might therefore obtain possession in a short time of the carrying trade of their country. It might also help nearer the day for which nearly all Chinese hope, when foreigners will leave, or be expelled from China. Chinese merchants would have little to do with the com- pany, but some natives who had been brokers and compradorea to foreign houses joined it, and with a few officials became its management. Large loans were obtained from the Government and native bankers, to take the place of the capital which was not forthcoming, wealthy Chinese shewing on this, as on several The New and Present Shanghai, 75 subsequent occasions, that they will not trust their officials. The company purchased many steamers, bat its affairs were corruptly and ignorantly managed. It received freights for the Government rice far above the market rates ; duties were modi- fied in favour of Chinese who shipped by the line ; but it was unsuccessful for many years. However, in 1877 it purchased the steamers, wharves, etc. of the Shanghai Steam Navigation Company, for two millions of taels, but that did not improve its position, and in a few years it was on the verge of ruin. The official element in its management was reduced in 18S1, and this saved the company. At the beginning of the troubles with France, in 1884, its steamers were transferred to the American flag, and placed under the management of Messrs. Bassetl & Co.; but they returned to Chinese hands in the following year. A long standing source of irritation was got rid of in 1873 when the Municipal Council purchased the bridge over the Soochow Creek from its proprietors. These persons had been exacting tolls for many years, from foreigners and natives alike, although they had no right to make any such charge. They claimed that a charter, which the Taotai had given in 1854, gave them the right, but it only conferred on them the monopoly of building bridges over the creek for twenty-five years. The increase in the population of the Settlements had made the bridge so profitable that the shareholders refused to sell for many years, and until the Municipal Council established a free bridge beside it. This was a bold step for the Council to take, but the Bridge Company was so detested that it is probable the com- munity would have supported the Coancil in any steps it had seen fit to take to get rid of the tolls. The new British Consulate, which replaced the original building that was burned at the end of 1870, was opened in 1873. The design was the same as that of the previous building — one- of the handsomest in China, — but its effect was consider* ably spoiled by the elevation being lowered a few feet. Much excitement, and some amusement, was caused in 1875 by the publication of a memorandum on the Woosung Bar from the pen of Mr. Eobert, now Sir Robert Hart, the Inspector 76 The Story of Shanghai. General of Castoma. It doomed Shanghai to commercial destruction. The Settlements, he said, would have certainly ten, perhaps twenty or thirty years of snfi&cient commercial status to make it worth, while to prevent the river being blocked np. "In twenty years time Chinkiang will have taken the place of Shanghai as a semi-terminns and transhipment port. In ten or twenty years tbe competition of Chinese steamers will have swept the foreign flags from the coasting trade, and displayed the Chinese colours in London and Liverpool docks." These excilting prophecies of evil to his countrymen are as yet un- fulfilled, except that one steamer with Chinese flag sailed from Shanghai for London some years ago, a costly experiment which, has not been repeated, and that another went to Newcastle with the crews of some gunboats which were built on tlie Tyne. In 1874 a number of residents combined for the purpose of constructing a small railway, an experimental line between Shanghai and Woosung, and on the 30th June, 1876, the little railway* was opened as far as Kong-wan, a distance of four and a-half miles, which it accomplished in seventeen minutes. The train conveyed a hundred and sixty passengers, who drank prosperity to the enterprise at the terminus, to Mr. Gr. J. Morrison, the Engineer of the line, and Messrs. Jardine, Matheson & Co., who had become connected with it. The toast, and the cheers which followed them, were, the newspaper said, " the only ceremonial observed on a day that certainly marks the com- mencement of a new era in China." The era was smothered in its infancy. During the few months this railway was open, the Chinese of the district, and others from considerable distances, flocked to ride oh it, in excited and pleased crowds. But the animosity of the officials to it as an innovation, which would have been active in any case, was increased by the manner in which the land on which it was built had been obtained. The permission of the Viceroy to make the line had not been asked, and the Taotai's sanction to the making of a driving road was, he contended, not meant to cover the construction and running of a railway. * Its gauge was 2 feet 6 mohes, and its total length about 9 miles. The New and Present Shafighai. 77 The line was soon closed, and was not reopened until tlie 1st December, by which time Mr. Mayers, Chinese Secretary to the British Legation, acting under orders of Sir Thomas Wade, had negotiated its sale to the Chinese. The terms were that it was to be run for a year from, the 1st October, 1876, at the expiry of which time it was to be taken over by the Chinese authorities, its value being ascertained by the investigation of the accounts. Compensation for a soldier who had committed suicide by placing himself between the metals before an ap- proaching train, was to he paid by the company. All the stipulations were duly carried out, and the shareholders finally received Tls. 285,000, which is said to have barely covered their outlay. When the close day arrived, immense crowds of Chinese assembled at the stations, and at different points on the line, to see the last train run, and if possible get a ride on it. At some places it seemed as if the whole population had turned out, and, as the train passed, the people maintained a dead silence. The railway was handed over to the Mixed Coart Magistrate Chen, an expectant Taotai, and twelve mandarins of high grade. And these dolts, unlike the common folk, shewed their contempt for the railway by refusing to make use of it on their inspection of the line. They travelled over it in their rickety, shabby sedaa chairs. When the officials obtained possession of the line, they tore up the rails, took the engines and carriages to pieces, and obliterated, as far as was possible, all traces of the railway.* The plant was sent to Formosa, where it lay on a sea beach until 1883 when at least part of it was brought back here and transhipped to the north. The trains ran for about twelve months altogether and carried 187,87(9 passengers, who paid fares, besides many who availed of the free days, and the receipts were $42,014.02, or 5 per cent, over a dollar per train mile. To shew the difference * It is only fair to say that the roadway was allowed to remain as a public carriage road, and the bridges have been kept up by the Ta«tai, mainly, no doubt, for the convenience of communication with the forts at VVoosuug, 78 The Story of Shanghai. between China and Japan at that time and, to a large extent, even now, the railway to Woosnng was taken up by the Chinese a few months after the Emperor of Japan had opened the Kioto railway. As far as Shanghai is concerned, railways remain an nnfnl- filled hope ; like many an abortive scheme of former residents, snoh as an exchange — a prospectus of which was drawn np in 1852 — proper Mnnicipal-buildings, a sanitarium on one of the islands at the month of the Yangtze, a swimming bath, tram- ways, manufactories and mining. The two sons of the Prince of Wales, Princes Albert Victor and George visited the Settlement in December, 1881. Twice during the last ten years the commerce of Shanghai has suffered from political causes. The first time was in 1880, during the dispute with Russia about Hi and Kuldja, and the second in 1883 to 1885 when the French fleet was on the coast. On the latter period large numbers of Chinese left the Settle- ments, and trade was much restricted. But when peace was made, the natives regained confidence, trade revived, and gra- dually the Chinese came back, accompanied by many others. A great benefit was bestowed on the public by the establishment of the Water Works, which was authorised by the ratepayers in 1881. His Excellency Li Hung.-chang, who was in the Settle- ment in 1883, endeavouring to negotiate on Tongking affairs with M. Patrenotre, the French Minister to China, turned on the first water at the Company's works, and showed great interest in the enterprise. He also drove to Messrs. Russell & Co.'s filatures and to the Country Club, where he saw ladies and gentlemen amusing themselves. In that and the following year the Viceroy of the Liang-kiang and H.E. Tso Tsuiig-tang visited the Settlement, the former making another attempt to negotiate peace with the French Minister. During the troubles With France the Chinese authorities and people did not interfere with the French residents, and the neutrality of the port was insured by a proclamation from the French Admiral that their fleet would not attack Woosung. Bat the Taotai, acting under instructions from the Viceroy, The New and Present Shanghai. 79 caused a wooden corvette and several old janks and lorchas to be towed to Woosung, and loaded with stones, with the intention of having them sank in the narrowest part of the channel. At the argent remonstrances of the Consuls for the Treaty Powers these orders were rescinded. Since the close of these troubles the Settlements have re- covered their former prosperity and have been considerably enlarged. The only event worth noting, which has occurred in these years, is the celebration of the Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, which was held on the 21st June, 1887. But the weather was so rainy that the illuminations, fire works' and procession were postponed till the following Saturday. 80 The Story of Shangliai. CHAPTER VII. RETROSPECTIVE. The events wkict occtiri'ed between the middle of 1860 and the end of 1863 had completely changed, not only the appearance of the Settlements bat to a large extent the character of their commercial life and their residents. A large China town had been built roand and among the houses of the old quiet Settlement ; the river banks, beside the city on Hongkew and on Pootung, bad been lined with wharves, alongside of which Bteamers from the river, the coast, Japan and Europe loaded and discharged their cargoes. The leisurely air which the old Settlement wore had been succeeded by feverish bustle in business, and extravagance in private life. , There was a great deai of speculation in Shanghai as there was almost everywhere in these years. The civil war in America fed its flame when speculation in land began to languish. A large trade in Chinese cotton to Europe sprang up suddenly in Shanghai and the northern ports, and soon attained large figures.* The condition of this and neighbouring provinces, where agricaltnre was suspended while the rebels were in them, necessitated the importation of large quantities of rice, and the operations against the rebels stimulated honest trade in some directions, but at the same time a great deal of money was dishonestly made by those who supplied the enemy with arms and munitions of war. A few notes on the shipping trade of the port will show very clearly how great the expansion of business was in 1862. At the beginning of the year there were only seventy square- rigged ships in port; in September there were two hundred and * The value of the cotton exported from Shanghai to Europe in 1863 ■was about £3,200,000, Betrospecti've, 81 ninety — many of them of large size-^at one time, bat this number gradually fell to a hundred and seventy-eight at the end of the year. And as the great increase in shipping trade took place between Jane and September it proves the suddenness with which commerce expanded. Again, the Castoms' daties collected at the port in 1861 wereTls. 2,490,819 and in 1862 Tls. 3,370,114,* an increase of Tls. 879,295 or, in round numbers, 30 per cent., but some of this improvement may have been due to the enhanced price of cotton manufactures. The number of ships entered inwards was 2,206, their tonnage being 891,352, and outwards 2,370 vessels of 923,070 tons. Many of the ships trading to China at that time and until after the opening of the Suez Canal were clippers buih to make swift passages, the competitors in the ocean tea contests. It is not likely that sach fine vessels will ever again give to the Hiiang-pu the animated appearance it had in those days. To provide for the sudden expansion of trade, new capital was introdaced, and the foreign banks were in 1860 asked to make loans and discount bills for the first time in the existence of the Settlement. There had no doubt been borrowing from native banks long before this, but that was quite in accordance with Canton custom, whereas such transactions with foreign bankers would have been considered infra dignitatem. The profits on this new business were so large — ^twelve per cent, being the rate charged on the best securities, such as Mexican dollars — ■ that the banks already in existence extended their business, and others hastened to establish themselves in this golden Settlement. And as it was not always possible to employ large sums at interest, in the ordinary business of the place, no matter at what high pressure the coach might be driven, the banks soon began to encourage wild business, and even to suggest it to their customers. But the wildest speculation was in land. When the country people poured into the Settlement in 1860, there was a considerable rise in the value of all land, but when another and *The total revenue of Shanghai in 1888 was Tls. 6,169,738.— Ciisivms Biturns of Track ISSS, 82 The Story of Shangliai. •mncli larger influx occarred in 1862, enormons prices were given for lots and ontlying fields, which, were at once covered with flimsy Chinese houses, that were occupied as soon as they were, roofed. The Chinese proprietors of these lands were practically unprotected by their own authorities, who were either trembling in the city, or too busy in extracting money from their wealthy countrymen to care for the complaints of poor men. Thus, when an unscrupulous foreigner desired to possess himself of the land of a native, he employed a corrupt minor official, who bullied the proprietor into selling. When one lot had been secured in this way, the right of pre-emption was exercised and more land acquired. And in this way speculators, who were not scrupulous, made themselves rich men in a few months, for rentals of Chinese houses were then very high. Some idea will be obtained of the results of the speculation of 1862 from the following sentences taken from the North-China Merald : — " All ispeculations, it said, had turned out well ; 100, 1,000, in some cases 10^000 fold had been made, and it liad been the exception to enter on a speculation that had not ;paid. Nor had profit been confined to a few." When we remember this it will not be thought surprising that extravagance of living became a ■characteristic of the large majority of the residents. And not only had merchants, land-owners and speculators been suddenly enriched, but hundreds of other people with good incomes were added to the population, either permanently or for a time. Money was abundant ; it was easily made and lightly spent in many cases. Chinese followed the times with as much zest as foreigners. Many of the rich refugees entered on various ventures and speculations. But there was one form of gambling which, more than any other, approved itself to the Chinese, and that was buying and selling Mexican dollars, on time. There was a ■regular dollar exchange held several times during the day and evening until late at night. There a large, noisy and excited crowd of bankers, merchants, shrofEs, and others bought and sold " clean" — -that is, coin without a scratch, stamp or any flaw on it, and bright in appearance — Mexican dollars to any extent. Hetrospectiiie. 83 At certain periods tHere were settlements, jnst as npon the stock exchanges in Enrope and America, and as mnch ingennity was shewn in Shanghai to raise or lower the price as is displayed by the balls and bears of other conntries. All classes of Chinese took part in this specnlative mania, and millions of dollars, on paper, were bought and sold every day, and sometimes many times a day. Althongh only Chinese attended the dollar exchage, which for several reasons was not an agreeable place to western people, many foreigners, ladies and gentlemen, participated in the speculations on it. Almost everyone was " in dollars" or " bearing" them. All kinds of places of amusement and pleasure sprang np and flourished ; at least one rouge et noir table was opened, while generally high gambling took the place of the modest stakes that had hitherto been the rule among foreigners. Plunging at the races became common, with disastrous effects in many instances. The cost of living was enormously increased because of the reckless extravagance which prevailed, high rents, and the exorbitant wages demanded by servants, who were in great demand for the ontports. The morale of society generally was decidedly injured by all this, but there were always counteracting elements that kept the ship of the community and social life safe. Sanitation had to be attended to, and the drainage scheme of 1862 cost a lar^ge sum and was a failure ; a police force was necessary, but the materials out of which one could be formed were either bad or indifierent; new streets had be hurriedly laid out and the old ones in the business part of the Settlement were at that time in a condition almost inconceivable to residents of the present day. After a few hours' rain they became ordinary Shanghai mud. Those people whose business obliged them to go about wore boots which reached half way up the thighs, as ordinary boots and shoes would have been dragged off the feet by the sticky tenacious mud. The streets were lit by little oil lamps far apart ; the river, which supplied all the drinking water of the Settlement, often bore corpses from the districts where fighting or beheading was -going on. Therefore the Tlie Story of Shanghai. establishment of a Waterworks Company was talked off, and samples of the river and creek water, taken, from different places, were sent to England and Bombay for analysis. But Shanghai was to be withoat a Waterworks Co. for nearly twenty years longer, for some things come slowly in China. So bad were things Manicipal in and about 1862 that I find the Model Settlement, as some one had called it, described in the news- papers as a hotbed of every conceivable abomination, a large portion of it being unfit for human habitation. The machinery of Municipal government had broken down; the Council had not sufficient power to deal with the large and overcrowded districts. Their endeavours to obtain this power are related in another chapter ; while the growth of the new Shanghai, that followed on the excited period which ended in 1866, has also been traced. While Shanghai has been growing in importance, its institu- tions and amusements have had their feeble share of attention, and an account of some of these will be interesting. But in several cases the early records have been lost op destroyed by fire. We saw the arrival of some Protestant missionaries soon after the port was opened for foreign residence and trade. They were few, but they have largely increased both in numbers and influence in the intervening years. It appears from statistics, which were published in 1887, that there were then nineteen missionary chapels — there are now twenty, at least, — in the Settlement, the city, and neighbourhood ; there are twenty schools for boys and girls, and four hospitals. All these are carried on by English and American missions. Besides these twenty schools there are five others where a higher edncation and board is given to Chinese boys and girls, and there is St. John's College, Jessfield, where Chinese youths are educated for the Protestant ministry or receive a sound secular education, while the latter can also be had at the University. In almost all these institutions instruction is given in English and Chinese, and in all of them the Christian religion is taught. The London Mission and the American Episcopal Missioa do much work in Retrospective. 85 the country districts, and two other Societies have branch missions at Snngkiang and Nanziang, while weekly classes for women are held at five places in the city and Settlement. The Roman Catholic Missions maintain thirty -three schools for boys and thirty-nine for girls in the Settlement and neigh- boarhood. These are nine at St. Joseph's, on the French Concession, where there were, on the 30th June last year, 91 boys and 371 girls ; four of the Sacred Heart, in Hoiigkew, with 250 boys and 26 girls ; four in the city with 311 boys and 57 girls ; twenty-one at Tong-ka-doo with 221 boys and 189 girls, and 34 at Siokawei with 409 boys and 328 girls ; or, in all, seventy-two schools where 1,282 boys and 971 girls were being educated last summer. There are also some private schools for the children of foreigners ; an Eurasian School and the French Orphanage, where children of mixed parentage are brought up and educated. Both these receive grants from the Municipality, and a Children's Home, for the orphans of foreigners and others, has been opened this year under Protestant supervision. The French Municipal Council established a school a few years since where Chinese are tanght the French and their own language. Until recent years there were serious deficiences in the education provided for foreign children, but these have now been very greatly remedied. The Shanghai Library was instituted in 1846. The collec- tion of books in it is the most numerous and best in China, but it has rivals in the Settlement and has several times been in diffi- culties. The Municipal Council gives it a small annual grant, in consideration of the reading-roooi being open to the pnblic. Probably the theatre is as old an institution as the Library, bat I am unable to say when the first Amateur Company performed in Shanghai, as tae records of the A.D.C. were burned some years since. But in 1850 the " new" theatre was opened, probably in some godown that happened to be available. For many years afterwards, until, indeed, the opening of another new theatre, and this time a real one, in 1867, the performances were given in godowns. That Lyceum was burned in 1871, and the building of the present Lyceum was commenced as soon as 86 The Story of Shanghai. safficienfc fands were collected. It was opened on the 25tli January, 1874, with the farce of " Incompatibility of Temper" and the comedy of " Masks and Faces." The Clnb Concordia and a dramatic society of French ladies and gentlemen have also given representations from time to time. And the Shanghai Rangers gave several theatrical performances when the force was in its youth. When the Royal Asiatic Society had been established in Hongkong a few gentlemen formed here the Shanghai Literary and Scientific Society. This was in 1857, and in the following year it was aflGlliated with the Royal Asiatic Society, a step which the Editorial Committee say in their introduction to the report for 1859 was always contemplated. The Royal Asiatic does not seem to have been very prosperous at first, for we learn that it was resuscitated in 1864, after having been dormant for some three years. About the same time when the Royal Asiatic was brought back to life, the first Debating Society was formed, but it only lasted for two or three years, probably expiring in the gloom which set in in 1866. But a vigorous successor took the field some years ago, under the title of the Shanghai Literary and Debating Society, which has added readings and concerts to its scheme, and these have been very successful. There is also a Museum attached to the Royal Asiatic Society and a Polytechnic for Chinese. A great deal has been done for many institutions in the Settlement by the trustees of the Recreation Fund. But for the too liberal loans which they gave to the Shanghai Clurb, that institution would either have died in its infancy or been com- pleted with some regard to common sense. But these loans were made in the wild days, and since then the Recreation Fund has done good service. For a time, however, its affairs were in great disorder and there were considerable doubts in the public mind as to whether the Fund had a real existence, and if it had, who were its trustees, or were there any trustees at all. Gradually its affairs were arranged, and the yearly accounts which have been published shew that it has been doing much good. Eetrosjpective. 87 The Ftind was created in ] 862, when some land within the old Bace Coarse was sold. This land had been purchased at the end of I860,* and laid out as a Recreation Ground at a cost, including the purchase money of Taels 4,421.34. This money and a few hundred taels more had been provided by the issue of shares, which were subscribed for by some fifty residents. The Talue of the land haying enormously increased in 1861 and 1862, it was considered advisable to sell it, and this was done, with the unanimous consent of the shareholders, for Tls. 49,425' on the 19th February, 1863. This sum constituted the Recrea- tion Fund. With part of it 430 mow of land, in the middle of the Race Course, abont ten times the size of the original Recrea- tion Ground, were purchased for Tls. 12,500. This land has since been devoted to the formation of a Cricket and an Athletic Ground and several other out-door amusements.t The Fund has also assisted with loans the Lyceum Theatre, the Museum, the Shanghai Library, the Cricket and the Rowing Club, and last but not least, the Shanghai Club. To the last-named institution a large loan was given early in the existence of the Recreation Fund, which is still outstanding. The Recreation Fund was a free gift to the community of the Tls. 49,000 which the land purchased in 1860 sold for. It was a very generous gift and has been highly esteemed. There were races in Shanghai from the early days of the Settlement ; the first course comprised the Cathedral compound, and some adjacent land, the second was on the east side of Muddy-flat, and the third between Thibet Road to the south and the Sinza Road to the north and from the Defence Creek to some distance down the present Maloo. In the early days the afternoon's sport lasted a couple of hours, and consisted of pony races, in some cases in heats. After that time Arab and Australian * It was 34 mow, 5 fun, 5 lee, originally, but was afterwards increased to over 40 mow, in the centre of the Race Course, and the first cost was $2,245.75 The gentlemen who bought the .land for public purposes were R. C. Antrobus, Jas. Whittall, A. F. Heard and H. W. Dent, and they executed a Trust Deed in 1861, in which they undertook to hold the ground for the shareholders who took it over from them. t The whole land within the Race Course is now the property of the Fund. Tlie Story of Shanghai. horses, and Manila and Indian ponies were raced. In 1862 English-bred horses appeared on the scene, and daring the next two years several of them took part in the races. Professional jookies were then allowed to ride. The extravagance of that period, to which I have adverted, was not confined to Shanghai, other places in China being affected by it, though not to the same extent. The Settlement and the Colony were then mach more closely connected in business than they have been for some years past, many firms trading in both places. Hence, when the partners in Shanghai made large profits in 1860 to 1862, the partners in Hongkong received their share of them. For some years before this time the challenge cup — to be won by the same stable two years in succession — had been raced for in Hongkong, the partners in the two largest English firms in China being the chief competitors. As soon as one of these stables won the cup, the other sent to England for a better horse to save the cup next year, and sometimes both did so. This bronght really good thorough-bred English horses to Hongkong, and as neither stable won twice running, a great deal of money was spent on the race. Some, indeed most, of these horses, and several high class Australians and Arabs, came to Shanghai in 1863 and 1864, and as other people ran less expensive horses, and as there were several regiments in Shanghai at that time, the race meetings were very good. A challenge cup for all horses was instituted here, the race having the same conditions as in Hongkong. It was won in 1862 and 1863 by the Pao-shan stable, and the cup was not renewed. Racing was carried on with great spirit in Shanghai, and was at its beight in 1864 when, not only were the fields good but the riding was better and almost everyone turned out to see the sports. The grand stand was then gay with ladies' dresses ; large private luncheons were given within the enclosure ; a general gaiety was abroad, while the road was enlivened by many four-in-hands and almost every other kind of carriage. Some of the English and Colonial horses which came to China early in the sixties were racing in Shanghai at the autumn meeting of 1868, since which time, I think that only China ponies have competed. lietrospective. 89 Papei'-hunting is not sncli an -old sport in Shanghai as racing. But not long after the Triads were suppressed in 1856, small parties of men used to ride across country from one point to another, as in the first form of steeplechasing. And after the Taiping rebels were driven away from the neigbourhood of the Settlement, some of the residents and ofiS.cers of the regiments which were stationed in Shanghai began to go paper-hunting, as had been done in the Crimea — where it was made a snbsti- tute for fox hunting — and in India. They rode out on Saturday afternoons, and sent away one of their number as fox, who laid the paper, and after a certain start had been given him the others made after the fox and chased him until they caught him, there being no finishing place, as at present. After a year or two the foxes wore red or scarlet cowls on their heads and shoulders, so that they might be distinguished at a greater distance. For some seasons the fields were not large, but in later years there have been a great number of riders, and the finish, especially at favourite places, attracts large crowds of specta- tors. The first paper hunt was run in December 1863, after the rebels had been driven away, and was won by Mr. Augustus Broom on Mud, and the second by Mr. R. H. Gore-Booth on Bogtrotter, who won the Griffins' Plate at the next spring meeting. This pony was raced here down to the end of 1868, and pulled a carriage for some years longer. I have been unable to ascertain when the change was made to the present system of finishes at certain places, as the records of the Club have been lost. But it was so flourishing in 1867 that Mr. Markham, the Master, said at a hunt dinner that he hoped a pack of drag hounds would be under way by next year. Some years elapsed before a pack of drag hounds arrived here from the Dnmfrie- shire kennels, but not in connection with the Paper Hunt. The hunt meets during the winter months. Some twenty-five years ago Mr. R. C. Antrobus brought out a pack of beagles, which were hunted, on foot, once a week and their markings can still be seen on dogs here. A Foot Paper Hunt fiourisbed for a year or two, but was disbanded in 1868, when it was resolved to purchase a cup with 90 Hie Story of Shanghai. the funds on band and have a final run for it ; bat I cannot find any record of the ran. The members generally ran from seven to ten miles across country and a favourite finish was over the big grand stand jump which was then wider than it is now, and was said to be sixteen feet. It was taken from the lower to the higher side. One famous run was from the old race coarse, across the Defence Creek, swimming, at the rear of the Horse Bazaar, away to Batt's bungalow, and thence to the Hermitage, where some forty members dined together. The first Cricket Club was started either in 1860 or 1861, and played on the ground within the old race course which was sold in February 1863. In that year there was probably no ground on which the game could be played and the Club seems to have become dormant. For on the 9th September, 1863, a meeting of gentlemen, who were probably members of it, passed a resolution : " That the old Club may be considered to have died out." A new Club was then formed, which had eighty members by the end of 1864, and the new ground was reported to the annual meeting in February 1865 to be in very good order. But members of more clubs than the Cricket had a way of not paying their subscriptions in those days, and from this, as well as other causes, the Club was in difficulties before the autumn of that year and applied for assistance to the Recreation Fund. The Committee of that Fund had advanced over six thousand six hundred taels to make the cricket ground and put up the railings which surround it. The right of the Recreation Fund to charge rent for the Cricket ground was disputed for some years, but the claim has since been admitted. A lawn tennis ground has been added to the Cricket Club's attractions, and the open situation of the ground, and its rich grass make it in snmmer and autumn one of the pleasantest i-esorts in the neighbourhood. Rowing seems to have been about the earliest outdoor amusement introduced into the Settlement as might be expected, seeing that the first comers were mostly Canton men, to whom the river had been almost their sole outdoor amusement. A regatta was held in one of the early years, and again in 1859, BetrospectivB. 91 bafc the present Rowiug Oliib was not formed until about twenty-five years ago. Some of the contests for the inter- national eight have been very good — such as the Scots against the English, the Germans against the English, and the Americans against the same, but the favour in which lawn tennis is held has diminished alike the numbers of rowing men and the public interest in the regattas. Besides these clubs or associations for outdoor sports and recreations there are a Yacht, a Rifle and a Racquet Club and it may be others. Of social clubs there are the Shanghai, the Country, the Concordia — the German Club which was opened in 1866 with a supper to which many foreigners of other nationalities were invited, — the Portuguese, the Masonic, the Customs, and the Parsee. There are a few charitable societies, notably the St. Andrew's, the Ladies' Benevolent, and St. Vincent de Paul, a General Hospital for foreigners, two for Chinese, and the Margaret Williamson Hospital for women. Although the Fire Brigade was not esta;blished for recrea- tive or social purposes, it has been conducted since its establish-^ ment twenty-two years ago with all the spirit and friendliness which are supposed to animate clubs. Its efficiency has been always very great and highly appreciated by the community, both foreigners and Chinese. In this department the Settlement and the French Concession work together in friendly rivalry and with the best effect. The story of Shanghai would not be complete without some account being given of its newspapers, past and pre- sent. The first number of the North-OMna Herald was published on the 3rd of August, 1850, and it has appeared weekly ever since. The North-China Daily News was originally the Daily Shipping List, which was published every morning and was in size something less than one-half of a page of the present morning paper. The List became the Nmih-Ohina Daily News on the 1st July, 1864, but before then the Shanghai Daily Times had run a short career. It began on the 15th September, 1861, and closed in April of the following year. The Shanghai Becorder was another morning paper which 92 The Story of Shdnghcn. appeared for a few years ; its stock was sold by auction on the 19th January, 1867. The Shanghai Courier was published in the morning as well as in the evening in 1879, and continued its early issue for a yea? or so ; L'JEcho de Shanghai, a French paper, was published in the morning for a few months in 1886, and 1886 ; and the Der Ostasiatisohe Lloyd has been issued in German, at first as a separate sheet in the morning, but latterly as a part of the Shanghai Courier in the evening. There have been several evening papers started in the Settlement. The first seems to have been the Evening Hxpress, which began in October, 1867, and ended exactly six months afterwards, to be succeeded by the Shanghai Courier which was founded by several gentlemen who did not share the Conservative . politics of the Daily News. It still exists, and has for competitor the Shang- hai Mercury. The Temperance Union represents the party to which it owes its name. Several other papers have had a brief life as dailies and weeklies, and in English and French. One satirical paper called Pv^Tc flourished about fifteen years ago, and its irregular appearances were very much enjoyed. The Government of the Settlement. 93 CHAPTER VIII. THE GOVERNMENT OF THE SETTLEMENT. The first Land Regulations were dated the 29th November, 1845, two years after the formal opening of the port to foreign trade, and when only Great Britain had a Consalate in Shanghai. They were agreed upon by Captain Balfour, the Consul, and Kang Moo-kee, Imperially appointed Intendant of Circuit of Soochow-fu, Sung-kiang-f u, and Tae-tsang-chow, and Superin- tendent of Customs in the Province of Kiangsu. They provide for the manner in which land may be acquired by British merchants, within the limits set apart for them, which are said to be the ground between the north of the Yang-king-pang and south of Le-kea-chang, which was the lot of land bounded on the south by the present Peking Road. The Regulations said that a large road had at one time run along the bank of the river from the Tang-king-pang northwards, which was a towing path for the grain junks, but " which subsequently could not be kept in repair from the sinking away of the banks." But " as that portion is now rented out all the renters must repair and replace the road," of a width of 2 chang 5 chih, Canton Customs measurement, so that people may pass along at without crowding. The ofl&oers and men who urge on the grain junks and respectable tradesmen may use it, but not idlers and vagrants. Jetties may be erected to which merchants' boats may come, but private craft will not be allowed to anchor at them. Four large roads were to be made in the Settlement : one North of the Custom House, one upon the Old Rope-walk, one South of the Four Lot Ground, one South of the Consular Lot. 94 The Story of Shanghai. The first of these is Hankow Road, the second Einkiang Road, the third Nanking Road, and the last the Peking Road of the present time. A road running north and sonth was also to be reserved, " on the west of the former Ningpo Warehouse," the site of which I have not ascertained. With the exception of Rope- walk Road, which was to be 2 chang 5 chih, or twenty-five feet, these roads were to be 2 chang Customs measurement in width, and jetties were to be constructed on the beach where they go out to the river. There was also to be a reserve for two roads sonth of the Custom House, when land shall have been • rented there, and we may remark in passing that ground by the river in that direction was then more valuable than in the northward part of the river side. Very careful provision was made for the protection of Chinese graves, which were thickly placed all over the Settlement. These, when in land rented by foreigners, must not to trampled on or destroyed ; the established terms for sacrificing and sweeping at the tombs being seven days before and eight days after (total 15) at the Tsing Ming term, about April 5th ; at the summer solstice one day ; five days before and after the first of the 10th month, and five days before and after the winter solstice. "On these occasions, the renters must not offer tlie natives any hindrance which would offend their feelings.'' A list of the graves in each lot was to be made out, thenceforth the Chinese must not bury in the said lots. After foreign merchants shall have rented ground, they may build residences for their families and dependents, and warehouses for lawful merchandise ; they may erect churches, hospitals, charitable institutions, schools and houses of concourse,* and they may likewise cultivate flowers, plant trees and make places of amusement. These provisions, some of them rather amusing, gave ample liberty to the little community which lived on the Settlement then, and for several years afterwards. Renters were also required to keep up bridges, maintain clean streets, which can scarcely have been a suggestion of the Intendant's, and do other specified things, all tending to the welfare of the community. And if any foreigner, * Theatres or Halls are probably meant. The Government of the Settlement. 95 other than British, desired to rent groand he must first make " distinct application to the British Consul, to know whether such can be acceded to, so as to prevent misunderstanding. Natives in the Settlements were prohibited from " renting to each other, nor may they again build houses there for the purpose of renting to Chinese merchants." There were restrictions in the acquisition of land and on speculation in it, which might have been retained with advantage. No one was to have more than tea mow of land,* and if any one purchased land and did not build a residence and houses for the storage of goods, it will then be proper for the local authorities and Consul, in communication together, to examine into the matter and take such land and allot it to some other party to rent. And there was a clause intended to prevent speculation in land. It will be observed that only the limits North, South and East were defined in these Regulations, but it was Captain Balfour's intention that a cross creek which ran on the line of Kiukiang Boad should be the western limit of the Settlement. And he also meant from the first that the corner lands lying between the present Peking Boad and the Soochow Creek to the north-east and the second road running south from the creek should be the site of the British Consulate. These lands were however then occupied by some government docks, about whei'e the Lyceum Theatre now is, a battery where the Consulate stands, and docks belonging to a family named Le — hence the name Le-kea-chong, or work-sheds of the Le family. The Taotai resisted the inclusion of the government land and the Le family would not sell their property and therefore the limits of the Settlement were defined in the first Land Begulationa as bounded on the north by Le-kea-chong. In 1846 and 1848 Mr. Alcock entered into negotiations with the Chinese authorities, and in the latter year he obtained the extension of the Settlement northward to the Soochow Creek, part of it, at least, by purchase ; f and at the same time the other limits were defined as : the Yang-king-pang bridge, the S.E. eornei- ; the * This had been abrogated before 1854. t The Consular lot was known for many years as Le-kea-chong. 96 The Story of Shanghai. first ferry on the Soochow Creek, the N.E. corner ; the mouth, of the Chow-king Creek, the S.W. corner ; the portion of the baak of the Soochow Creek, where the dwelling houses of the Sens are, the N.W. corner. These limits, which may be taken as all ground between the river and the present Defence Creek and the Tang-king-pang and the Soochow Creeks,* were notified by Wa Sam-qua, Taotai in 1851, no previous intimation of them having been made, nor was anything disclosed about Mr. Alcook's negotiations in 1846, beyond a reference to them in the Land Regulations of 1854. There were maps attached to the agreement, but they were never published, and the originals were burned in the city, when it was taken by the rebels in 1853. In this proclamation, it is said that merchants of all We.stern nations may build houses within these limits, under the express sanction of the Emperor, which is very different from the language of the first Land Regulations, in which the Settlement is said to be wholly British. It was the intention of Captain Balfour that the Settlement should be British, his irritation when the United States fl,ag was hoisted in it proves this, but Mr. Alcock stated in his speech tp the Landrenters in 1854 that the British Government never considered the concession of the ground on which the Settlement was bailt, or the rights and privileges in it, as a means of exclasion directed against other foreigners, but as the readiest means of solving a difficulty by anticipation. Before 1854, citizens of the United States had been elected on the Committee of Roads and Jetties, although there were then only eight or ten Landrenters of that nationality, all the others being British. Soon after the capture of the city by the Triads and other insurgents in 1853, considerable numbers of Chinese came to reside in the British Settlement. They squatted on the north bank of the Yang-king-pang, on the lands which had been cleared for roads, then in the course of construction, and also on plots in various parts of the Settlement. These squatters were mostly people of bad character, who opened brothels and gambling houses, and the hats in which they lived were chiefly * North-China Herald 29th March of that year. The Government of the Settlement. 97 constructed of matting and other inflammable materials. The Consals of the three Treaty Powers therefore addressed a despatch to Taotai Wa Sam-qna, early in 1854, pointing out to him that the presence of these people, and of some respectable Chinese, in the Settlement, made it necessary that new Land Regulations should be framed. The Taotai replied that there was no clause in the existing Land Regulations granting power to foreigners to build houses for Chinese, and that Chinese were prohibited from locating themselves within the Settlement. He went on to say that the whole neighbourhood of the Tang-king- pang was then crowded with Chinese, in which there was danger to merchants, as the good and bad were mixed up together. The Consuls agreed with the Taotai, and offered to co-operate with the Chinese authorities, in order to give effect to the Treaties, by applying a legal remedy to the evils which existed. They sought to obtain power to do this by framing new Land Regulations, which were issued in July 1854, with the approval of the Taotai, and they were presented to a meeting of Land- renters on the 11th July. Mr. Alcock explained, in a long speech, that " they were designed to give that cosmopolitan community a legal status ; an existence as a body capable of taking legal action, and of lending a legal sanction to measures required for their defence, there must be some organisation to take the power of a representative Council with Municipal powers and authority. And one of the first acts of such a municipality would be the legalisation of many measures hitherto forced by a stern necessity upon the naval and civil authorities on the spot, which could not be justified on any principle of legality." He further explained that under Art. X. of the new Regulations the Foreign Landrenters were to have power to make provision for all Municipal purposes, such as taxation, the administration of funds, police, etc., through an elective Municipal Council. The first article of the Land Regulations referred to ground held by the Chinese Government and the British Government within the Settlement, which was to be exempt from Municipal 98 The Story of Shanghai. control, but tte latter would pay all assessments. Land which might afterwards be acquired by the Governments of France and the United States were to be excepted from Municipal control. The mode of acquiring land from the Chinese proprietors ; of sellingit and of procuring title deeds; deeds of agreement or sale ; of surrendering land for public use ; that boundary stones were to be set up ; the payment of land tax ; the transfer of lots, the extent of lots, and the uses to which they might be applied were all provided ior. The Consuls were to call a meeting at the beginning of each year, when assessments would be made and other Municipal business transacted and when a Council, of not less than three Landrenters would be chosen, which would levy the assessments, and conduct the affairs of the Settlement. The Council was to have power to sue in their Consular Court all who did not pay their rates, and when such defaulters had no Consul, the Intendant of Circuit " shall upon application of the Road Committee, transmitted through the Foreign Consuls, recover from such defaulters the amounts due from them, for Land Assessment or Wharfage Dues, and pay the same to the said Committee." It was evidently the intention of the Consuls who agreed upon the Land Regulations that the new Council should have full power to deal with all mattei's affecting the public interests, and the health and good order of the Settlements. For Mr. Alcock said that " it should take peremptory st-eps to stop the influx of Chinese, to remove all the houses blocking np (the road by) the Tang-king-pang, and other thoroughfares ; or that are otherwise objectionable, for situation or the uses to which they are applied : brothels, opium and gambling shops, and such like, could have no pretension to fixity of tenure." It soon appeared that the Consuls had not given the power to the Council* which the Landrenters, at a meeting held soon after the above, called the Municipal Council, which they intended. For matters grew worse ; more Chinese flocked into the Settlement and opened disreputable houses. * The first Municipal Council consisted of Mr. W. Kay, Mr. E. Cunningham, the Rev. Dr. Medhurst, Mr. D. 0. King, Mr. C. A. Fearo'n, Mr. J. Skinner, and Mr. W. S. Brown. The Government of the Settlement. 99 "Wa, or Satn-qaa, Taotai, had by the end of 1854 disap- peared from the scene, in official disgrace, and Lan held the acting appointment. When the Consuls addressed a despatch to him on the 25th Febraary, 1855, in which they quoted the substance of what they had said to his predecessors and his answer to them. Acting Taotai Lan replied, agreeing with everything the Consuls said and enclpsing a copy of a proclamation he had issued prohibiting Chinese from living in the Settlement ; pro- posing that new houses which had been bnilt for Chinese, and which were considered objectionable, be removed, the difference between their cost and the sum received from the sale of their materials being repaid to the owners. Further, the acting Taotai said that Chinese tenants of foreign-owned houses could not be allowed to remain, and requested that the Consuls would give directions to the Municipal Council to see to the immediate removal of them. The Consuls, thereupon, forwarded copies of the correspondence and of the proclamation to the Municipal Council, which body replied a few days afterwards that it did not appear to them that such matters fell within the limits of their control, but the Council engaged "to take immediate steps to suppress brothels and gambling honses, and to see to the removal of such buildings and parts of building as obstruct the public way." Subsequently, on the 21st September, the Municipal Council intimated to the Consuls that they considered that even the limited action which they had promised to take exceeded their powers. Nothing was done, either by the Mnnicipal Council or the Chinese, to i-emove the objectionable natives and their houses. As the Consuls said : — "Chinese authorities, Foreign Con- suls and the Municipal Council were all agreed as to the existence of evils of great magnitude," and as to what should be done to abate them and prevent them increasing, but the Council would do nothing, nor did the Chinese who had received notice to remove, from " the proper authorities," show any disposition to stir, and foreigners continued to build houses for Chinese, of whom it is stated there were 20,000 or so in the Settlement, towards the close of 1854 — two years before there were not 500 of them. 100 The Story of Shanghai. Tke Consuls thereupon concerted measures with the Governor of the Province, and other Chinese authorities, and obtaining authority from the Chi-hien, ejected most of the objectionable natives, and opened out the main thoroughfares by the removal of the buildings which obstructed them. The Consuls asked the permission of the acting Taotai to sell the whole of the vacant lots — nineteen in number — by public auction, to foreign renters, and to apply the proceeds of the sale to compensate the dispossessed Chinese. They also asked the acting Taotai to legalise by proolam.ation the residence of respectable Chinese within the Settlement. The acting Taotai agreed to all this, and his "conditions for the residence of Chinese within the foreign limits " were published. These conditions set out by saying " that no Chinese subject can acquire land or rent or erect buildings within the Foreign Settlement, without having first obtained an authority under official seal from the local authority, sanctioned by the Consuls of the three Treaty Powers," and "it has therefore been decided that a certain course shall be observed by any Chinese desiring to rent ground or houses within the said liniits." These conditions refer only to the building of houses by a Chinese, the uses to which he intends to put them, to the giving, security that he will keep duly registered at the office of the local authority,, and upon a board, to be hung up over the door of the honge, the name and age of every inmate, under a penalty of $50 for the first oSence and the cancellation of his license on a repetition of it ; " and further that he will conform strictly to the Land Regulations, and contribute his share to any general assessments." The date of this was early in February 1855, as it was covered by a despatch from the Taotai of the day. The Land Regulations had, in fact, completely failed as the means of purging the Settlement of the disreputable Chinese, and it had become necessary to call in the Chinese authorities. All this occurred while the city was in the hand of insurgents, while the British were driving the Imperialists from their camps on the race course, and the French were bombarding the The Government of the Settlement. 101 insargents in tlie city. No wonder there were mistakes made, or that the new Municipal Council should complain in their first annual report of the changing policy of the Consuls. The authority of the Municipal Council, under the Land Regulations of 1854, was impaired by the opinion of Her Majesty's legal officers in Hongkong, to whom they were submitted. These learned gentlemen denied the legal status of the Council, as it had been created by Consuls, who had no power in themselves to do anything of the kind, apparently considering the consent of the Chinese authorities as of no effect. The Manioipal Council henceforth only took legal action through its creators, the Consuls, until its status and authority was clearly defined twenty -one years afterwards. The Landrenters, at their meeting, unanimously instructed the Council to communicate with the Consuls as to incorporating Hongkew with the British Settlement, a matter which was deferred until 1863. They also authorised the taxation of Chinese within the Settlement, with the consent of their authorities, which was given by the Taotai a few months afterwards. They also decided that all new roads should be forty feet wide. The autumn of 1854 was a time of great political activity in Shanghai. The Landrenters met again on the 11th November, and called on the Council to report their proceedings since their election — only four months before — and requested the Consuls of the three Treaty Powers to ask the Chinese authori- ties to fulfil their promise to contribute out of duties to the expenses of the Manicipality, as Mr. Alcock had said they would do ; and they passed a resolution altering the franchise, so as to give any foreign resident a vote who paid fifty dollars or upwards of annual assessment, but not in addition to his vote under the. existing qualification. Another meeting held seven days later set these resolutions aside, and desired the Municipal Council to continue the duties of their office for the time for which they ■