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Do. not defoce books by marlu and writine. ^issA^ Cornell University Library DC 801.A33B23 Aix-les-Bains and its ^"^'r'?.!).^}.,,.., 3 1924 028 315 467 /l33 B^2 Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028315467 I«58.59. Illustrated Europe. Our CoUeotion "ILLUSTBATED EUROPE" is pubUshed also in German and a French edition, entitled respectiTely: — Enropaische Wanderbilder. | L'Europe illnstree. The Collection is kept on store at every important bookseller's on the Continent. The following numbers have appeared: — 1. Th8 Aith-Eigi-Eailway 22. Beinerz i. Baden-Baden 23. The firnyere 3. Tie Vitman-Eigi-Bail. 24. 25. 26. The St. Bothard Eailway 4. Heiden and the Boischacli-Eeiden- 27. 28. Fiaihnrg (Baden) Bailvay 29. 30. Gorbersdorf (Sanatorium for 5. Baden in Switzerland Gonsnmptives) 6. Than and the Lake of Thnn 31. 32. Ghanz-de-Fonds, Locle, Brenets 7. Inteilaken 33. From Frohnrg to Waldenhurg 8. The ^ppe^Engadine 34. 35. The Biirgenstock (Lake of Lucerne) 9. Zniich and its environs 36. 37. Neuchatel and its environs 10. Constance 38. 39. Battaglia near Padua 11. Nyon on the lake of Genera 40. 41. Goire and its environs 12. Thnsis at the Via Mala 42. 43. 44. The Pusterthal Eailway 13. Lncerne 45. 46. 47. The Brenner Eailway 14. Florence 48. 49. 50. From theBannhe to the Adriatic 15. 16. Milan 51. 52. Graz 17. Schaffhansen and the Falls of the 53. 54. From Paris to Berne Bhine 55. 56. The Lake of Luoerne 18. Bagai-Ffsfers 57. Jugenheima. Auerbach n. Darmstadt 19. Vevey, its environs and climate 58. 59. Aix'les-Bains and its environs. 20. Baths of Erenth 60. 61. Eeidelherg. 21. Eavos 62. 63. 64. Budapest. The following will shortly appear: — Prom Turka to Brig — Brig and the Simplon — Loueche-les-Bains — Sion and Ita environs — The great St. Bernard — From the Dent du Midi to Iiake of Qeneva Chamonnix — Ijocamo — Glaris — The Baths of Martigny (Vosges Mountains). 851102 CONTENTS. Indroduction Situation. Climate. Vegetation Geology History Antiquities and Monuments.. Thermal Establishment Hospice Asile Evangelique The Waters The Adjuncts of Aix-les-Bains Marlioz Challes les Eaux fit. Simon Cercle d'Aix Grand Casino of the Tilla des Fleurs French Alpine Club Excursions Excursions in the Vicinity of Aix Grotte des Fees The Eevard The Dent du Chat Cascade of Grdsy and Gorge of the Sierroz Grotte of Bange Lake of Bourget Le Bourget Bordeau Hautecombe Abbey Castle of Chatillon Lacustrine Settlements... Sports PAGE 3 5 11 13 16 19 24 24 25 28 28 30 82 32 40 44 44 47 47 47 49 61 51 52 52 53 54 59 59 61 La Savoie c'est la grace alpesire. Victor Hugo. La Savoie c'est la Normandie avec I'korizon de la Suisse et le del de l' Italic. A. ACHARD. Jlln these epigrammatic sentences two illustrious writers of ^ our day have recorded their opinion of this beautiful land, where nothing is lacking which can allure the Alpine climber, charm the tourist and the traveller, interest the savant and the artist, and restore health to the valetudinarian. For does not Savoy offer to intrepid walkers and tried mountaineers one of the loftiest summits of the Continent, Mont Blanc, "the monarch of mountains," and many another peak above which the banner of the French Alpine Club has never yet waved? Will not the tourist, the traveller, the artist find here landscapes and points of view challenging comparison with the grandest and loveliest scenery of Switzerland itself, — deep and grassy glens, glaciers and torrents, blue lakes and the hill of Tresserves, it combines with a most agreeable climate a variety of enjoyments of every description, which, in addition to the efficacy of its springs, render Aix one of the very pleasantest resorts of invalids and even of persons in the full enjoyment of health. The hills overlooking the town are studded with palatial hotels, charmingly situated and comfortable villas, pavilions, and chalets commanding a superb prospect and surrounded by a pure and bracing air. The streets of the town are for the most part straight and well made, its exposure such that it receives an abundant share of sunlight. A magnificent avenue planted with trees and lined with villas, gardens, and hotels leads from the rail- way station in the centre of the town to a pretty and well- kept park which affords invalids an easy promenade, where they can at their pleasure enjoy the vivifying rays of the sun or rest in the shade of the tall and umbrageous trees. Aix is reached by the Paris, Lyons, and Mediterranean Railway, whether we arrive from France, Switzerland, or Italy. This charming little town is distant 360 miles from Paris ; 77 miles from Lyons; 55 miles from Geneva; 242 miles from Marseilles; 137 miles from Turin; 229 miles from Milan; 377 miles from Nice; and 858 miles from Cannes. The population at the census of 1881 was 4682. Aix possesses all the resources of a large town: comfor- table hotels, boarding-houses (pensions), private apartments with board for families, Cercle, and Casino. The terms for board and lodging range from 8 to 16 francs — in second class houses from 6 to 8 francs — per day. The Hospice and the Asile Evangelique receive poor patients at almost nominal rates. A Roman Catholic church and two Protestant chapels will be found in the town. Besides the summer season at Aix there are spring and autumn seasons. English invalids more particularly, on leaving southern climes, come to spend the months of April and May 7 — and the beginning of June here, before starting for England or Switzerland, and often return in September or October, as soon as they feel the first touches of cold, previous to their departure for the south. Owing to its geographical position Aix has thus become an intermediate station, and in reality the bathing season commences with the first days of April and closes at the end of October. The climate of Aix is among the most agreeable, salub- rious, and temperate. The prevailing winds are the north and north-east. Never- theless the climate is sufficiently mild to allow the fig and the pomegranate to flourish in the open air. The mean tempera- ture is 51" Fahrenheit. The air is pure, and as regards moisture it is admirably adapted to delicate chests and to nervous and irritable con- stitutions. The disposition of the mountains and valleys surrounding the town shelters it from too abrupt variations in temperature. — 8 — Although in summer-time the heat occasionally reaches 91 or 920, it is tempered by breezes which purify and renew the air. Such hot spells are always of short duration, and the sultry, stifling nights so frequent in large cities, when not a breath of air is stirring and sleep is impossible, are quite un- known here. Aix is entirely exempt from endemic diseases. At two sadly memorable epochs, in 1435 and in 1564, its inhabitants were preserved from the pestilence which ravaged the neighbouring towns. This important fact, cited by Cabias, is confirmed by other historians. Every one who has lived in Savoy, or travelled in this beautiful land, has remarked the freshness and vigour of the vegetation. When elsewhere the leaves have already fallen and the trees are bare, the woods and valleys here are stUl clothed in verdure. Agricultural pursuits are carried on with activity, and in certain districts the soil is very fertile. Hemp, wheat, and tobacco flourish admirably. Forests of beech, pine, and larch girdle the mountains at the altitudes respectively adapted to the different trees. The vine, the chestnut, the mulberry, the walnut, and even the almond yield good and abundant produce. Fruit-trees thrive well here, and furnish not only enough for home consumption but also for an abundant exportation; notably is this the case as regards cherries. Aix participates in all these advantages. "The astonishing variety of exposures," says Verneihl, "permits in certain valleys of the employment during a long period of spring fruits which in other districts are in season but for a very short time; the strawberry, for example, lasts nearly six months. The productions of spring and of autumn — 10 — may stand side by side on the same table, and we may par- take at the same time of strawberries and of grapes."* This peculiar feature noticed by a former prefect of Savoy is still an actual fact, and the numerous visitors assembled at Aix in the month of October find a confirmation of its truth at every meal. StaHstique ghi^raU de la France. Dfpartrment du Mont-Blanc. (:tjctj(itj(i|j(itj(::^(ife(iljc|jc^ Geology. DJlf Nature has been bounteous towards Aix in giving it a (^ most agreeable situation, a delicious climate, a varied and luxuriant vegetation, efficacious and copious springs, she has been no less liberal from a geological point of view ; the soil offers to the savant interesting objects of study at the same time that it furnishes an abundant supply of materials avail- able for industrial purposes. The valley of Aix is formed of neocomian and urgonitn rocks resting upon Jurassic strata, and covered by the molasse which composes the surrounding hills, such as that of Tresserves. All the mountains in the neighbourhood are of compact limestone belonging to the cretaceous formation, which con- stitutes the greater part of the chains of counterforts of the Alps on the left bank of the Rhone, and covers the most re- cent beds of the Jurassic system. The fossils most frequently found are Ammonites, Belem- nites, EcMnites, Terebratulas, &c. "If the three great rock formations found in the chain which dominates Aix (Semnoz, Margeria, Nivolet) are well known, the upper Jurassic rocks forming the base at Lemenc and Mery are still the object of interesting study. The hy- draulic marls of Berrias which cover them have as yet furnish- ed but few fossils, and those in a state of bad preservation. "Above the vrgonien certain spots show us the albien — 12 — (greensand), mere fragments, then tertiary rocks, in part marine, in part lacustrine." * Near the Eevard the soil is composed of neocomian marls, exactly as near the Semnoz. It is this which produces these charming meadows mingled with wooded acclivities, hills, and picturesque features extending from the Eevard or rather from the base of the Dent de Nivolet as far as La Cluse and to near Arith on the other side. To this we owe the enchanting landscape of the Eevard. Below the marls appear certain very hard rocks forming the long crest of the Nivolet, above Mery and Aix. Through these rocks opens the Perthuiset road, leading to the Eevard. * Louis Fillet. ,f tttf tf tt tf't f fffff.f '$"l"t"l't'l"t History. bught the actual origin of Aix to be referred to a period .^^^ anterior to the Roman epoch? "Few towns," says M. Ferraris, "are able to boast of a greater antiquity." To the Romans it was known by the name of Acqttce Allobrogorum. Andreas Baccius Elpidanus, who wrote in the fourteenth century, calls it Ais in Sabaudia; Guichenon and Cabias, Acquce DomiUce, Acqum Gratiance. De Pingon, in the researches which he made regarding the history of the country in 1566, says that the inhabitants of Aix were designated by the name of Aquenses. Aix appears then to have been of a certain importance from the time of the Allobroges, and previous to the Roman conquest, which took place B.C. 123. But was it a mere villa^ as Millin asserts, or did it rank as a civitas, as other writers maintain? The dimensions of the thermae, the remains of which are still to be seen in good preservation at the Pension ''Chabert, the other monuments manifestly belonging to the Roman period, such as the bath and the temple of Diana, the arch of Cam- panus, and lastly the numerous inscriptions bearing the names of important families, show that Aix was at the very least a picus, or large borough, which under the dominion of the Romans formed part of the district of Narbona, whose pre- fects from time to time enlarged and beautiSed the baths. - 14 — If the prosperity of Aix during the Roruan Epoch seems to be beyond doubt, it is also almost certain that upon the downfall of the empire of the West the barbarians who flung themselves upon the Roman possessions did not permit Aix to escape their ravages ; the town was successively burned and pillaged by the Vandals, the Huns, the Franks, the Sara- cens, &c. The various conflagrations of which this town was the scene, that of 230 of which Cabias speaks, and above all that of the month of August, 1739, have naturally obliterated and destroyed much that would otherwise have enabled us to trace its history. Guichenon says that on the 5th of the Ides of May in the year 1000, Rudolph III., king of Bur- gundy, ceded to Berold de Saxe, lieutenant-general of his kingdom and viceroy of Aries, the provinces of Savoy and Maurienne, and that this cession took place at Aix. In the important work of MM. Cibrario and Promis* two documents, which they reproduce in extenso, are found to conflrm the assertion of Guichenon, which had been challenged by Grjllet. There are two deeds of gift, — the first by Rudolph III. to his second wife Irmengarde, dated 1011, and the second by Irmengarde herself in 1057 to the church of Grenoble; these documents remove all doubt as to the relative importance of Aix in the Middle Ages. Reduced to ashes in the course of the thirteenth century, the town was speedily rebuilt, and in the fourteenth century it passed under the dominion of the Counts of Savoy, who erected it first into a barony, and afterwards into a marquisate. In the sixteenth century was erected the castle of the Marquis d'Aix, which was purchased by the town in 1865 together with the park belonging to it. The Roman empire having succumbed beneath the blows of the barbarian hordes who invaded the west, the thermae of Aix, which had been very celebrated, were pillaged and * Documents, Monete e Sigilli. Turin, 1883. — 15 — destroyed, and we have no certain information regarding the condition of the baths in the Middle Ages. We know, however, that in the time of Rudolph III. Aix was famous for the virtues of its waters. Some authors tell us indeed that the Princes of Savoy took great delight in the baths of Aix, and Cabias further informs us that towards the end of the sixteenth century Henri Quatre of glorious memory, being on a visit to Savoy, came to Aix, and having descended from his horse near the great bath with several persons of his court, bathed for the space of an hour with great pleasure and contentment.* We scarcely think that the bath in question can have been other than a restored piscina or basin, on which the name of the Royal Bath was bestowed in commemoration of the visit of Henry IV., and that if there was at Aix a place where baths were taken, there was certainly no thermal es- tablishment there at that time, nor indeed until the eighteenth century. ** Aix was formerly surrounded by a strong wall flanked by large towers and pierced by three gates,— on the north the Gate of Chambery, on the north-east the Gate of Chantagne, and on the north-west the Gate of Rumilly. * Les vertus merveilleuses des bains d'Aix en Savoye. Lyons, 1623. ** Dictionnaire hisiorique et statistique de GriUet, ■^t^^^^^s^^^^s^^s^^^^ Antiquities and Monuments. 1 mong the ancient monuments which still exist we remark in front of the Thermal Establishment the Arch of Campanus, a sepulchral monument of the family of the patrician Lucius Pompeius Campanus. It is in the Tuscan and Ionic styles, and probably dates from the third or fourth century of our era. It once formed the principal entrance to the therm £6. Its dimensions are: height 30 feet, breadth 22 feet 6 inches, span of the arch 9 feet 10 inches. On the west side of the frieze are eight niches or columbaria intended to contain either cinerary urns or effigies of the persons mentioned in the inscriptions above each niche. Not far from the Arch of Campanus are the ruins known as the Temple of Diana. Buried up to a third of its height, it is composed of large blocks of stone superimposed without cement, and coming from what is still known as the Roman quarry at Biollay. The exterior length of the monument is about 44 feet, its entire length between the two architraves visible from the walls of the pronaos about 33 feet. The cella or hall also measures about 33 feet in length, and that part of the wall of the vestibule still remaining about 10 feet. The faQade of the temple is in the garden of the Thermal Establishment itself. This ancient monument, which had previously been turned to no account, will shortly be utilized as a depository for all 861102 — 17 — the collections of the Museum. Almost at the same distance from the Arch of Campanus, but on the opposite side, is found all that remains of the thermte. "We are informed by Dr. Maximin Legrand that the Roman bath was fed by the springs of St. Paul, and formed part of the ancient thermae. It now serves as a cellar for the Pension Chabert, but is open to the inspection of visitors. In form it is octangular, and is supported by a hundred square pillars of brick- work bearing in relief the name of the maker Clarianus. All around are the scalaria or benches covered with white marble. Around the pillars is a corridor where the water circulated, and the ceiling of which is pierced by a multitude of little rectangular chimneys of terra cotta, communicating with one another and allowing the vapours to ascend into the room overhead, which could be used either as a vaporarium or as a water bath. Adjoining the vaporarium were three subter- raneous chambers, to the east of which was a vaulted gallery conveying away the surplus water from the thermse. Among the other antique objects deserving of notice we may mention a sun-dial found in the vaporarium, and excavated in the form of a cone in a block of travertine. It is divided by horary lines into twelve equal parts. General de Loche has given a detailed description of this ancient time-piece in the Memoirs of the Academy of Savoy. In the Baths there are also preserved some votive offer- ings to Bournon, an aquatic divinity who has given his name to several towns, — Bourbon-l'Archambault, Bourbonne-les-Bains, Bourbon-Lancy. We may further mention several tombs, one of which is in remarkably good preservation, a fine torso of Parian marble, capitals of white marble, pilasters, sculptures, and a large number of inscriptions. The castle of the Marquis d'Aix is the only remaining monument of the sixteenth century. The eastern fagade has Aix-Ies-Bain3. ' 2 18 been entirely rebuilt, and the southern front repaired in the style of the era. The magnificent Renaissance staircase is especially admired. After its purchase by the town in 1865 the castle was partly demolished. It now contains the municipal offices, the post and tele- graph offices, the court of justice, and the police offices. In the second story is an interesting museum of art and more particularly of archseology, founded in 1870 at the instance of Count Lepic, a museum of natural history, the library, staircase in the Chateau. ^ho Alpine Club, &0. The Museum and Library are open daily from 9 to 12 and from 2 to 5. ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Thermal Establishment. fn the year 1700, according to the relation of Jean Panthod, physician at the University of Montpellier, the baths at Aix were taken either in the Roman basin, which was fed by the alum spring, or under an irregular vault excavated in the rocks by nature itself at the source of the sulphur spring. The public were allowed free entrance, and little attention was paid to the state of the interior or of the surroundings. In 1757 a brick vault was constructed to protect invalids against the fall of fragments of rock, which occasionally detached themselves from the roof of the cavern, and sometimes inflicted serious injuries. A. little later the Princes of Savoy closed the entrance of this grotto and erected in front of it a small wooden structure eighteen feet in length by eight in height. At the same time a shed to shelter the invalids who were carried to the springs in chairs, and sat waiting their turn, was constructed against the wall of the Hotel de la Croix Blanche, near the bath. The next proceeding was to separate the men's side from the women's side. In 1772 the Duke of Chablais came to Aix to take the baths, but found the arrangements so extremely primitive that he was obliged to send for a bathing-tub for his own private use. In view of the unsatisfactory and uncomfortable nature of the arrangements it was deemed expedient to build an im- proved establishment near these springs, which attracted each year the princes of the house of Savoy as well as an already considerable number of strangers, who became a source of profit for the country. In 1776 King Victor Amadeus laid the foun- dation stone of an estab- lishment designed by the Count of Eobilant, and of which a large part still remains, though concealed by later additions. The fagade was very elegant, and the interior distribution Thermal EsiablishmeHt. Ladies' Tank. Interior of a Douche. — 21 — was wanting neither in roominess nor even in comfort for this period. Four steps led up to the establishment, upon entering which the visitor found himself in a spacious peristyle con- taining a tank of mineral water, a kind of atrium under the open sky. In the two wings of the edifice, on the right and on the left, there were two large waiting rooms. The douche cabinets formed three divisions, the first, on the left, designed for the poor (the present Enfer); the second, in the centre, for the use of the general public (the present Centre), while the third, on the right, was the Princes' Quarter, appropriated, as the name indicates, to the princes of the house of Savoy. In this establishment only douches and vapour baths were supplied; liquid baths were always taken at home. At this period the total number of bathers frequenting the establishment, which was under the control of the municipality, was 518. Up to the Revolution of 1792 this number was constantly increasing, but after the popular outbreak, and during the wars of the first empire, it suffered a diminution, which was checked, it is true, in 1811 in consequence of the personal interest taken by the Emperor in the baths of Aix. But this reactionary movement was of short duration, and only when the house of Savoy recovered possession of its do- minions were the projects which had been previously elabo- rated again taken in hand under the direction of M. Despine. In 1818 the section known as the Bains Berthollet was opened; in 1832 the establishment was enlarged by the ad- dition of the Albertine division (tank, douche, vaporarium). In 1840 and in 1843 two new douches and three tanks were con- structed, and in 1858 three more grand new douches were opened. And still the establishment at Aix could not meet the requirements of the constantly increasing number of visitors who frequented it, nor the requirements of progress in hydropathic science. After considering how best to satisfy the new demands, the Sardinian government finally adopted the joint project presented by M. Frangois, engineer-in-chief of the — 22 — mining service in France, and M. Pelligrini, architect to the municipality of Chambery. Unfortunately the estimate amounted to the large sum of 900,000 francs, and after trying several combinations with a view of arriving at a favourable solution, the annexation of Savoy by France came before the works, which were but just begun, had made much progress. One of the first acts of the French administration was to take up the important question of the Thermal Establishment. On the proposition of M. Dieu, prefect of Savoy, it was declared a government thermal establishment and made the property of the state together with all the buildings in con- nection with it, including the hospital of Queen Hortense. The same decree appropriated for the completion of the works the sum of 700,000 francs. In 1864 the whole was completed, and the Establishment of Aix became one of the most important, best managed, and most frequented places of the kind. In 1881 it was enlarged by the southern annexe built at the foot of the hospital. The Establishment of Aix at present comprises baths, douches, bathing-tubs, and tanks, inhalation and pulverization rooms, pump-roomn, &c., well deserving of a special description. The grand douches number 51, 6 of which have separate bathing cabinets adjoining, as follows: — 1. On the ground floor: 14 douches des princes, with double jets. 2 douches & colonne, with single jet. 2 douches en cercle. 4 douches d'enfer. 2. On the first floor: 9 douches des princes, with double jets. 1 douche moyenne \ 4 douche des Albertins f .,, . , . , , , , , , > with single let. 4 douches du centre 1 ° ■■ 3 douches locales ] — 23 — 3. On the second floor: 4 douches moyennes with single jet. 4 douches des princes with double jets. These different douches are divided into two classes : such as are fed by the thermal water alone, to the number of 8, and such as are fed by both thermal and cold water, to the number of 43. To all these douches a double dressing- room is attached; in the new southern annexe the dressing- room itself is connected with a dry room which permits the invalid to dress without being exposed to the cloud of vapour arising from the douche. Of the bathing-tubs 48 are supplied by the two thermal springs and the cold water. Eight bathing-tubs are fed by the mineral water only, refrigerated by a special process in such a manner as to dispense with the addition of cold water. Eight other bathing-tubs are in connection with douches, permitting the employment of the two methods successively, and without moving from place to place. The tanks are six in number, two very large and four smaller in size. The latter can be obtained for the private use of families at certain hours. Each of these tanks is pro- vided with a cold douche, which is frequently employed for the diseases treated at Aix. They are also in connection with very comfortable dressing-rooms. Further there are 6 rooms where the vapour douches called after M. BerthoUet are administered, 5 vapour cabinets (vaporariutnj, six vapour cabinets (bouillon), 4 foot baths, and 4 ascending douches. The inhalation and pulverization rooms are most com- plete in their arrangements, and are capable of fully meeting every requirement. We may add in conclusion that at the Thermal Establish- ment of Aix 3400 baths &c. are administered daily; of this number more than one-half are douches. — 24 - The Hospice d'Aix. The Hospital of Aix, overlooking the southern annexe of the Thermal Establishment, was founded in 1813 by Queen Hortense after the catastrophe at the cascade of Gresy -which cost the life of Madame de Broc. The queen also endowed the hospital with an annual revenue. This institution was afterwards the object of the beneficence of Mr. W. Haldiman, an English gentleman who lost no opportunity of showing his interest in it. It also received donations from King Charles Felix, from the town of Aix, from the Marquis Costa de Beauregard, and from several of the inhabitants of Aix, whose names figure among the benefactors of this useful institution. After the annexation of 1860 it was, as we have previ- ously remarked, incorporated in the property of the state, and under the second empire it was almost completely rebuilt, and enlarged. The hospital of Aix can at present dispose of 850 " days of treatment", which are distributed by the prefect of Savoy, representing the donors who cannot superintend the matter themselves. In addition to patients received gratuitously, others whose means are but scanty can here receive for the sum of two francs per day lodging, food, and the care which their health requires. The medical staff at the hospital of Aix consists of four doctors nominated by the prefect, each having charge of one section. An assistant, generally selected from among the younger medical men, takes the place of the regular physicians in case of necessity. The Asile Evangilique. In addition to the Hospice there is another hospital in the town, prettily and healthfully situated near the entrance — 25 — to the park. This is < the Evangelical Asylum, supported by subscriptions and donations raised by the English and more particularly by the Scotch colony. Under conditions laid down in the regulations of the institute, invalids, belonging to the Reformed churches, and standing in need of the waters of Aix, are received here. The establishment is under the ma- nagement of a Protestant clergyman, and is daily visited by a physician of the neighbourhood. The Waters. The hot sulphur springs of Aix-les-Bains issue from the ground at a distance of 100 paces from one another. They rise from the neocomian rocks resting upon the Jurassic strata covered by the molasse of which the surrounding hills are composed. Limpid, colourless, oily to the touch in consequence of the glairine and baregin which they contain, diffusing a slight odour of sulphuretted hydrogen, they are of a soft taste and are not at all disagreeable to drink. The springs are two in number; the alum spring, called after St. Paul, is brought to the Establishment by a conduit from the well from which it rises, and which has been reached by a gallery 130 yards in length; the other, sulphur spring rises behind the Establishment. The sulphurous principle is found in both the springs in the form of free sulphuretted hydrogen, and in about the same quantity in each spring. Both register 4 degrees on the sulphohydrometer of Dupasquier. These two springs together supply a total quantity of 880,000 gallons in 24 hours, which, added to the cold water now obtainable in great abundance, raises the total daily yield to nearly 1,300,000 gallons. The ordinary temperature of the alum water is 115" Fahrenheit, and that of the sulphur water 1130, indicating an original depth of 3300 to 4000 feet. 26 — /^ li-h^hi In front of the Thermal Establishment. The waters of Aix owe more of their efficacy to their temperature and to the manner in which they are applied than to the amount of sulphur they contain. The operation known as massage especially is performed here with rare skiU by a staff of attendants whose traditions have been transmitted, it is said, from father to son since the time of the crusades, faithfully preserving secrets borrowed from the orientals. The waters of Aix are employed with success in the fol- lowing diseases: Eheumatism of the joints and muscles and all the affections aUied to the rheumatic principle and to chronic gout; skin diseases; all catarrhal affections; chronic ulcers, caries, fractures, fire-arm wounds; mercurial affections and syphilitic symptoms of long standing; chlorosis, amenor- — 27 — rhoea, engorgements, &c. ; neuralgias, hysteria, certain gastral- gias, affections of the spinal marrow, and paralysis. The duration of a course of treatment is usually 20 or 21 days. After treatment at Aix the waters of Saint Simon, Marlioz, and Challes are generally employed as after-cure. We must not conclude our notice of the springs without mentioning the grottoes of St. Paul, where the galleries from which the waters are derived are to be found. These caverns may be visited on one day in each week when they are speci- ally illuminated, producing a most wonderful effect. The sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which was lost during many years to the great detriment of the mineral waters, has given rise by its contact with the limestone rocks to very curious phenomena of metamorphism. The rock, under the twofold action of the sulphur and the vapour of the water, has assumed the strangest and most fantastic forms. Here resembling groined ceilings or the pin- nacles of Gothic turrets, it assumes yonder the appearance of the bones or heads of antediluvian animals, reminding us of those enchanted palaces which the legends of the mountain- eers people with gnomes and goblins. The only inhabitants of the grottoes are a few absolutely harmless snakes. The waters of Aix may be drunk either in the pump-room, in the Establishment, below the hospital, or in front of the Establishment at a pretty fountain specially provided for this purpose. !^!^^^!§.!§.!§J^!^!^ !^!^!^LJ^!^tJ§L!^J§.!^L^!^t^^tJ^ The Adjuncts of Aix-les-Bains. Marlioz. the establishment of Marlioz is situated in a large and ,^^ beautiful estate on the road from Aix to Chambery, opposite the delightful hill of Tresserves. It lies about' 1600 yards to the south of the town of Aix. There exist at Marlioz three springs: (1) that oi jEscuI- apim, employed internally and for the baths ; it indicates 30 degrees on the sulphohydrometer, and is four times stronger than the water of the Eaux Bonnes, Cauterets, Bareges, and Saint-Sauveur ; (2) the Adelaide Spring, still more sulphurous than the preceding, and reserved for exceptional uses ; (3) the Bonjean Spring, which supplies the inhalation rooms, and is of the same degree of sulphuration as the Adelaide. These three springs, whose temperature is constant at 52" Fahrenheit, are sulphurous, alkaline, iodized, and bromized. They supply 264 gallons in 24 hours. They have been analysed at different times by MM. Bonjean and Petrequin, and more recently (1878) by M. Wilm. The establishment of Marlioz is composed of two separate buildings standing at a short distance from one another. The first is approached by a vestibule where we find an elegant drinking fountain so arranged as to supply the sulphurous water either at its natural temperature or at a higher tem- perature obtained by special apparatus without impairing the qualities of the fluid. — 29 — To the right and left of this vestibule are two small waiting rooms and two convenient inhalation rooms, well ven- tilated, and arranged in such a manner that one can read, write, and work in them. In the same building are the pha- ryngeal, auricular, and facial douches, also the medical cabinet. The other building has been arranged for 14 bathing-tubs, ascending and several varieties of sitting douches, and a general Miirlioz, Rstal'lishiiient and Gnrden. cold hydropathic douche, all constructed on the most improved principles. The waters of Marlioz can therefore be administered in all the forms prescribed. Taken internally their immediate effect is to stimulate the functions of the stomach and the urinary organs, and secondly, in passing into the general circulation, to operate in various manners according to the quantity taken and the mode of its administration. Owing to their alkaline properties and to the sulphurous mineralizing principle, the waters of Marlioz can be easily transported and preserved for a very long period. In the Park, which is beautifully laid out and is of itself 30 — well deserviii g of a visit, we find an elegant chalet-restaurant with visitors' rooms; a pavilion of medical gymnastics, an open- air gymnasium for children, a dairy, &c. Marlioz is reached from Aix by a magnificent road bordered by side-walks and planted with ^ , ^^ an avenue of lofty trees, affording k^^ '"^^^^ continuous shade throughout the H '^ii:::i-i.ZM^ ^ distance. Clmlet at Marlioz Challes les Eaux. The springs of Challes are situated at a distance of rather more than 12 miles from Aix-les-Bains. They were disco- vered in 1841 by Dr. Domenget, and issue from the fissures of a schistous rock veined with calcite, belonging to the Ox- ford Clay. This agreeable spot is situated in a beautiful broad valley on the international roads leading from Chamb6ry into Italy and to Grenoble. From the terrace of the castle of the ancient family of Milliet de Challes, overlooking the springs, the view embraces the chain of the Alps of Dauphiny, whose snowy summits afford a spectacle of surpassing grandeur. The establishment of Challes is situated at an altitude of 1000 feet above the level of the sea. The mean tem- perature of the months composing the season (from the 1st May to the 15th October) is 71" Fahrenheit. There are three springs at Challes: the Great Spring the Lesser Spring, and the Well. The most important and most strongly mineralized of these is the Great Spring. Between 1842 and 1878 it was analysed by 0. Henry, Bon- — 31 — jean of Chambdry, Dupasquier, C. Calloud of Chambery, Garrigon of Montpelli^r, and lastly by Wilm, who at the same time also analysed the Lesser Spring. " Challes," says Professor Gubler, " is the most strongly mineralized of sulphur springs, and is 20 times as rich in sodium sulphate as the other waters richest in this constituent." The water of Challes is of a decidedly sulphurous taste and smell, and is very perceptibly bitter. Its limpidity is perfect, and as long as it is protected from contact with air it does not become discoloured. Otherwise it decomposes very readily. Independently of the sulphur it contains it is slightly impregnated with bromine and iodine, and its temperature is 50° Fahrenheit. The water of Challes is essentially depuratory, resolutive, and cicatrisive, and is wonderfully efficacious in all diseases of the skin and in chronic affections of the mucous system. It agrees perfectly with the stomach, owing to the neutralizing action of the sulphate of sodium and doubtless also to its alkaline mineralization. The establishment of Challes dates from 1876. It is an elegant structure in the form of a chalet, built over the spring itself. It comprises a basement, ground floor, first floor, and attic story. The basement is occupied by the spring, its basin, and the rooms devoted to the purpose of bottling the water, &c. In the ground floor is a spacious pump-room, two inhalation rooms, a room for pulverized douches, another room devoted specially to nasal irrigations, a room for hydrotherapia, a consulting cabinet, &c. The first floor is entirely appropriated to the baths, comprising 22 cabinets. In the attic story are the reservoirs of water. In view of the constant increase in the number of visitors to Challes, a very pretty Casino has been built by an association — 32 — formed for the purpose , its reading-rooms, theatre, &c., afford visitors to Challes rather more variety of entertainment than was formerly to be found in walks taken in the environs. Saint-Simon. The third spring which may be considered as an adjunct to Alx is that of St-Simon, a little village situated 1500 yards from the town and 836 feet above the level of the sea, on the road from Chambery to Geneva. The spring of St. Simon rises in the midst of a pretty rose garden. It issues from the Neocomian at a temperature of 67.6 Fahr., and yields nearly 40,000 gallons of water every 24 hours. It was analysed by Kramer of Milan in 1853, and more recently by J. Bonjean of Chambery; Petrequin has discovered in it traces of iodine. There is no thermal establishment here, but only a pavilion with pump-rooms. This spring is employed as a table water ; it agrees well with the stomachs of nervous and delicate persons. It is a cold alkalo-calcareous magnesian spring, and is very efficacious in gastralgias, vesicular catarrhs, and gravelly and gouty complications. The Cercle d'Aix.* In 1824 the number of visitors to Aix was not less than 4000. Certain progressive and energetic minds conceived the idea of offering them a place of assembly and recreation. * We have intentionally adopted this title. The appellation of Casino, which was given to it after it was leased to M. Bias, and has been con- tinued since, is incorrect and ought to be dropped. The Act of Incorporation gives it the name of the Cercle d'Aix, by which title alone it should be known. S51I02 — 33 — The result was the founding of the Cercle. At first established in the Chateau of the Marquis d'Aix, the association formed for carrying out the project, on the 20th April, 1824, at once took the work in hand. The earliest regulations date from 1827. Several modifi- cations and additional paragraphs were introduced and approved by the Senate of Savoy on the 26th April, 1834. A few years later, the frequenters of the Cercle having rapidly increased, it was enlarged by a handsome ball room built entirely by the Company according to the designs of M. Melano, the distinguished architect who was at that time superintending the restoration of the Abbey of Hautecombe. In 1847, at the moment when it was necessary to think of renewing the agreement with the Marquis d'Aix, several insuperable difficulties started up. On the other hand the number of visitors who frequented the watering-place and the Cercle was constantly increasing, and it was thought more ex- pedient to acquire a plot of land, on which new buildings were erected under the superintendence of the architect Pellegrini. The Cercle was thus installed in a building of its own, and in spite of the numerous difficulties which had to be surmounted, thanks to the combined efforts of all interested, this patriotic enterprise was successfully completed, and in 1849 the saloons were thrown open to the public. But political vicissitudes coinciding with the great expenses incurred by the new company, the Cercle was for a time re- signed to the management of M. Bias, who took a lease of it and obtained from the Sardinian government authority to establish here gaming rooms similar to those at Baden-Baden, Homburg, &c. The new act of incorporation of the Cercle Company is dated March 26th, 1848, and the letters patent authorizing the formation 6f a joint-stock company are of the same year. The regulations and statutes date from 1849, since which time they have not been modified in any important degree. Aiz-les-Bains. 3 34 - During the first few years which elapsed after the erection of the new edifice a brilliant success was attained. The gaming tables attracted a large number of visitors, the regiments in garrison at Chambery furnished day by day a band of ex- cellent musicians and the 61ite of their dancers, who contributed to the success and eclat of the fetes and balls which were given several times each week. "When in 1859 the Divisionary Council of the province of Savoy demanded the cancelling of the lease of the Cercle and that of the Baths which had been united to it, the Company reacquired its autonomy. But the gambling had been suppressed, and it was ne- cessary for the company to confine itself to a more modest programme, one more in accordance with the resources which fully assure the existence of this establishment. The annexation of Savoy by France, the enlargement of 35 - Circle d'Aix. Interior of the Theatre. the Thermal Establishment, the opening of the railway con- necting France and Italy by the Mont Cenis tunnel— each and all contributed to ensure the success of the audacious enter- — 36 — prise of 1847. In 1861 the number of visitors amounted to 7000, while in 1880 the total had risen to more than 20,000. The Cercle d'Aix, which was in a position to profit by this prosperity, saw its receipts double from 1871 to 1881, and the administration soon took up the projects of extension and embellishment which circumstances called for. Prior to this, however, steps had been taken to offer to visitors all the recreations which they now enjoy on a larger scale. Even in the chateau of the Marquis d'Aix a small theatre had been erected. In 1853 the new building was provided with an elegant little movable stage, which could be mounted in a very short time whenever required. During some years various comedies and comic operas were represented here. Bej'ond this the excellent music, which one could be sure of hearing interpreted here by competent artistes, had always been one of the chief attractions for the subscribers to the Cercle. During twenty years Strauss conducted his orchestra here before going to Vichy. After him the conductor's baton passed to Simon Levy, then to Portehaut, to Jules Simon, to Wald- teuffe], to Michiels, to Bianchi, and lastly to Simondi, who conducted the Italien orchestra whose principal artistes are now members of the orchestra of Colonne. The old subscribers to the Cercle d'Aix love still to recall the fetes which were given in these saloons in 1856 to Marshal Canrobert, in 1857 to Victor Emmanuel, in 1860 to Napoleon III.; the charity balls the proceeds of which have relieved so many sufferers; and, quite recently, the grand fete given for the benefit of the vic- tims of the catastrophe of Casamicciola, and which realized the handsome sum of 13,000 francs. Our description, however abridged, would be incomplete without mentioning the names of the disinterested men who have occupied the post of President of the Cercle since its foundation, and who have devoted a part of their time to the administration of this establishment. Cercle d'Aix. Interior of the Hall. — 37 — The first name which we meet in the records is that of Colonel Chevillard, the first president of the Cercle in 1824. In 1836 M. Louis Domenget succeeded Colonel Chevillard, and was himself followed by M. Prosper Degallion. The fourth president of the Cercle was M. Brachet, who remained at the head of the administrative council from 1842 to 1861, at which time he was succeeded by M. Prancisque du Bourget, who resigned in 1865 and was replaced by the Comte de Martinel. In 1879 M. de Martinel retired, and the council appointed as his successor M. Martin Franklin, during whose term of office such great transformations have been efiected in the Cercle. To this list of presidents we must append the names of two men who, without occupying this high post, have rendered signal services to the Cercle. The first is Colonel Viviand, one of the founders, the second Dr. Quillaud, who took an active part in all that was done under the presidency of M. de Martinel. If from the vestibule overlooking the "court of honour" we cross the old drawing-room, we find in front of us the festival chamber, with an exquisitely painted ceiling; on the right the gallery giving access to the doors leading to the theatre; on the left a similar gallery leading to the cafe, the card room, the restaurant, the hall, and the terraces of the garden, access to which is afforded by three fine flights of stairs. From the hall or from the gallery we can reach the Salle des F^tes, adjoining which is the theatre, connected with the garden galleries. Such is in a few words the present arrangement of the Cercle d'Aix, an arrangement permitting subscribers to pass from one part of the building to the other without going out of doors, to be always under shelter, to enjoy a delightful view from the terraces of the garden, and a cool temperature in summer on the terraces of the court, which also enable the visitor to see all that is passing in the Cercle. — 38 — Excepting the festival chamber, that part of the building overlooking the garden is of quite recent erection. Without entering into full details, it may be well to give a few parti- culars regarding some of the modern additions. The great hall, which serves in some sort as an annexe to the Salle dea Fetes, is appropriately furnished and decorat- ed. The centre is occupied by an artistic gaselier in silvered and gilt bronze, with a circular velvet-covered seat surround- ing its base. Similar seats are disposed around the columns, near the restaurant, &c. The vaulted ceiling of the hall was decorated in 1 883 with splendid mosaics by Dr. Salviati of Venice, after cartoons by the artist Lameire and on the plans of the archi- tect Boudier of Paris. These mosaics occupy a surface of no less than 3500 square feet, and form one of the most important works hitherto executed by Salviati. They are unique in Prance, and their execution constitutes a noteworthy circumstance in the history of the decorative art. The central vault, containing the principal subject, is or- namented at the top with a scroll bearing in letters of gold on a blue ground the name of the town of Aix, and support- ed by two winged figures. This device occupies the centre of a medallion formed by the twelve signs of the zodiac, beautifully executed in cameo and relieved by polished uncut stones of various colours. At the angles four large standing figures symbolize the four seasons with their attributes. Spring is typified by a young maiden attired in white, carrying a bird of paradise and tripping lightly over flowers; the pursuits of angUng and the chase serve to emblemize summer and autumn, while winter is represented by a lady enveloped in furs and carrying a lighted chafing-dish. The gold background is covered with elegant arabesques and grotesque floral devices. — 39 — The four small vaults contain no figures, but simply or- naments in polished uncut stones. Lastly the four double arches each have a medallion in the centre with the figure of a child representing the genius of the elements, and on each side bouquets of foliage and flowers interwoven with ribbons on which are inscribed the names of four thermal or mineral spas of Savoy, Aix-les-Bains, Saint-Gervais, Marlioz, and Challes. The restaurant adjoining the hall is large, comfortably appointed, and well conducted. The theatre, access to which is afforded by very many doors, is extremely elegant. It affords seats for about 700 persons, and numerous exits are provided at all points, though it is scarcely necessary to add that every precaution is taken for the prevention of accidents. The administration of the Cercle has lately acquired land on which it is proposed to erect a new theatre, when the present one will be converted into a concert room, and will then be permanently decorated in becoming style. Three times a week from June 1st to September 15th comic operas, &c. interpreted by artistes of the first rank, are represented, while from September 1st to October 15th Italian operas are produced. Besides theatrical representations there are three times a week grand symphonic concerts conducted by Colonne. Tuesday is reserved at the Cercle for the evening fete with music, illumination of the grounds, pyrotechnioal displays, and lastly a grand ball in the Salle des Fetes. Every day a special Italian orchestra, conducted by Maestro Olivieri, plays in the grounds both during the daytime and in the evening. To these various amusements of the Cercle we must add, every Thursday during the greater part of the season, child- ren's balls vrith tombola, and daily representations of the Parisian Marionettes. Besides this, during the summer season artistes di primo cartello are frequently engaged for special fetes or extraordi- nary representations. — 40 — Grand Casino - I o/ the Villa des Fleurs Thus during the last few years sub- scribers have had the pleasure of hearing ^. Miss Nevada, Madame Sarah Bernhardt, MM. Sivori, Plante, Massenet, Maurel, Bottesini, Novelli, Co- quelin, and many others. a^elLPiitUACi. Grand Casino of the Villa des Fleurs. The Grand Casino of the Villa des Fleurs, or more briefly the Villa des Fleurs, was established in 1880 in a beautiful park, one side of which adjoins the avenue leading to the railway station, while the other is bounded by the Rue des Soupirs, where the principal entrance will be found. The Casino may also be reached by a narrow lane leading from the Kue du Casino past the Cercle d'Aix. In the park of which we have just made mention there has existed for some years a detached building known as the Villa des Fleurs, which was formerly let each year either to private persons who passed the season there, or to speculators who made it the scene of more than one brilliant evening f6te. The Grand Casino of the Villa des Fleurs is the property of a company. It is under the control of an administrative committee, and more immediately of a manager appointed by this commit- tee, who is the responsible superintendent of the entire Casino. Restaurant oj the Villa des Fleurs. The old building, which was by itself much too small for an establishment of the importance of that which has been created, is connected by means of a covered and enclosed gallery with two other buildings. ^ That on the right contains the pretty theatre with all its appurtenances, which can be readily converted into a ball-room or dining-hall by removing the movable seats. The building on the left comprises on the ground floor the secretary's offices, the reading and conversation-rooms, the small ball-room, restaurants, and lastly a large and beauti- ful card room, well ventilated and arranged. The decorations are luxurious but tasteful; the walls are covered with allegorical paintings from the pencil of an artist of Lyons, M. Domer. 42 Grand Casino of the Villa des Fleurs. Card Room, Like the Cercle d'Aix the Villa des Fleurs offers various amusements to its subscribers and visitors. Every afternoon an orchestra of forty-five musicians, con- ducted by a young and intelligent maestro, L. Grillet, gives excellent concerts in the kiosk in the park and in the evening the same orchestra performs elsewhere. Every day except Saturday there is a theatrical represen- — 43 — tation. The comic opera or operetta troupe alternates with that which plays comedy, drama, or vaudeville. Saturday evening is reserved for a grand musical f6te and general illumination of the park, followed by a beautiful display of fireworks, and terminated by a grand ball. At the conclusion of the afternoon musical performance a marionette theatre forms the centre of attraction for the Grand Casino of the Villa des Fleurs. Terrace and Music Pavilion. younger children, who await with ill-disguised impatience the appearance of Punchinello. In the course of the season the administration of the Villa des Fleurs also provides extraordinary performances with the assistance of vocal or theatrical artistes specially engaged for the occasion. Among those who have been already heard here we may name Maurel, Talazac, the pretty Marguerite Ugalde, Sarah Bernhardt, and in another class Saint-Saens, Marsick, &c. Lastly an excellent cafe-restaurant is put at the disposition of visitors who may wish to take their meals here regularly, or to dine here occasionally instead of at the table d'hdte of their hotel, by way of variety. — 44 — French Alpine Club. Bearing in mind what has been said aboTS regarding the geographical situation of Aix-les-Bains, it is not surprising that this town is the centre of a branch of the French Alpine Club. Founded in 1874, this branch has from the very commencement been conspicuous for its activity. Every year, during the season and especially in holiday time, the Aix branch arranges excursions and ascents to which it invites not only all the members of the club but also visi- tors who may desire to take part in these tours. A body of guides organized under its auspices, and whose charges are fixed by the club itself, is at the disposition of tourists who prefer to make excursions alone, or who are un- able to take part in such as are arranged by the club. Excursions. The walks and excursions within the reach of the visitor to Aix are very numerous, and very varied as regards distance and time. In the restricted space allotted to us we can only give a detailed account of such of them as are in the immediate vicinity of the town. We must confine ourselves to a short summary of the others. To the north of Aix a visit may be paid by rail to the extremely interesting Gorge of the Fier, and to the pictures- quely situated ch&teau of Montrottier, an ancient feudal castle on the summit of a hill overlooking the surrounding country (Lovagny Station), then to Annecy, round the lake of the same name, past Menthon and its baths dating from Roman times, Talloires, with the ruins of its ancient Benedictine abbey (ninth century), the castle of Duingt, &c., returning the same evening to Aix in time for dinner. 45 Or, taking the train to Rumilly, a carriage may be hired here for the Val de Fier, a magnificent excursion which good walkers need not fear to undertake on foot, with the advantage of thus being able to make frequent halts to enjoy the wild beauty of this incomparable route. They can then admire more at their ease the Pont Navet, the Roman Eoad, the Forge du Marechal, the Chambre de la Dame, with its legend, the Pont des AUobroges, the Observatory, the Grand Tunnel, and the Gates of the Fier. At Seyssel Station they may then await a train which will convey them back to Aix. No visitor to Aix should omit to make the ascent of the Semnoz, "the Righi of Savoy," at the summit of which a well-conducted chalet- hotel affords visitors a comfortable night's lodging, enabling them to enjoy the spectacle of an Alpine sunrise, and to admire Mont Blanc itself and a splendid panorama of more than a hundred mountain peaks; afterwards descending to Annecy, and returning the second day to Aix. By availing ourselves of the steamboat we may, in a single day's excursion, visit the grottoes of Balme, the Rhone. To the south of Aix there is the town of Chambery to be visited, with its museums and library, the promenade of Charmettes, celebrated through its association with the names of Madame de Warremer and Jean Jacques Rousseau, the water- fall of Coux, the Bout du Monde, and the cascades of the Doria. Then, in case we have two days at our disposal, we may make the ascent of the Signal, of the Mont de Joigny, Gorge of the Fier. on the banks of — 46 — and of the Granier, and visit the Lake of Aiguebelette and the mineral baths of Bauche. Lastly, for tourists who, not being tramelled by the exi- gencies of medical treatment, are able to dispose of several days time, we can recommend a tour in the Bauges, returning by the Col du Frene and Saint-Pierre d'Albigny; then a visit to the Grande Chartreuse and the ascent of the Grand Som; lastly a visit to the grottoes of Guier and the springs of AUe- vard and Uriage. yp7p7:^7^7j:7ji7(ijji! fl:7p7f:7$:ij:7i:ifi7jt7(t ^7pvf:7p7j:7(c7(:if:7p Excursions in the Vicinity of Aix. Orotte des Fies. this excursion is one of the prettiest and least fatiguing which can be made in the environs. The "Grotto of the Fairies" was almost unknown when Baron Despine caused it to be explored in 1866 and found in it numerous relics of the prehistoric era. It is situated near the farm of Gigot on Mount Corsuet, and is now accessible without any risk, the Alpine Club having had a zigzag footpath constructed, protected by a strong iron balustrade. From the entrance to this grotto a beautiful prospect is enjoyed. In the background are the mountains of the Grande Chartreuse, the Signal, Mont du Chat, Colombier, the grassy plains of Chantagne, and the River Ehone. At our feet we admire the Lake of Bourget, Hautecombe, and the hills of Saint-Innocent and Brison. From time to time the landscape is enlivened by the swift passage of a railway train, or by the steamboats which farrow the azure surface of the lake. Six hours are required for this excursion. The Bevard. The Eevard rises to a height of 42 1 2 feet above Aix-les- Bains, while its altitude above the level of the sea is 5069 feet. - 48 - This mountain forms .part of the secondary chain of the Nivolet, composing with it and the Semnoz one of the sides of the Bauges group. It affords opportunity for a most agreeable excursion, un- fatiguing and perfectly free from danger. It is easily accessible from the town side by a good bridle-path constructed in 1878. The Revard road extends for a distance of 3^/2 miles from the Chdtaignerie (chestnut-grove) Joanne as far as Pertuiset (4602 feet). It forms a beautiful avenue commanding a superb panorama which widens as we ascend, and which has for its central point the blue waters of the Lake of Bourget. At Pertuiset the ascent properly so-called terminates. Beyond this point there unrolls before us a spacious plateau covered with verdure and spangled with innumerable flowers. The plateau is traversed by a footpath leading through glades and tracts of woodland, and conducting us in a pleasant walk of one hour to the lofty region forming the crest of the Grand Revard, where we are confronted with a magnificent panorama of mountains rising tier upon tier to the furthest horizon. In the north we discover the Lanfon, Semnoz, the chain of Aravis, the Toumette, and nearer to us the Voirons, Sal^ve, Mont Credo, and the summits of the Jura; in the east Mont Rocheret, the Grand Carroz, the Pluvain, Margeriaz, and Rossane; in the north the Alps of Dauphiny with the Sept Laux and BeUedone, and less distant the Nivolet, Granier, the Chartreuse group, Mont Joigny, the Dent d'Otheran, Arpettaz. and the Signal. Lastly in the west the Epine and the Dent du Chat rise on the confines of the verdant plain which extends below us, studded with villages, chateaux, and villas. But in the midst of all these natural splendours which, solicit the attention of the tourist is Mont Blanc, commanding them all, and inevitably attracting the eye from those lower eminences to its own peerless heights, mantled with eternal snows glittering like innumerable diamonds in the sunlight. Seen from the Revard, Mont Blanc assumes a shape entirely different from the outline familiar to visitors at 851102 — 49 — Chamonix ; indeed it here proaents the appearance of a gigantic rampart of snow, embattled like some fortress of the Titans, and seemingly so precipitous as to be absolutely inaccessible to the boldest climber. We may either descend by the same road or return by the Nivolet to the Deserts and Chambery, which constitutes a delightful excursion of three to four hours, in case we have taken the precaution to order a carriage to await us at the Deserts. We might also return to Aix by La Cluse and the Chemin du Garde, a delightfully shady road affording at inter- vals superb views of the valley. The Dent du Chat. The second ascent commonly undertaken by visitors to Aix is that of the Dent du Chat. It may either be made during the night, so as to arrive at the summit in time to see the sun rise, or we may start early in the morning and return in the evening. If from the Bourget or even from Aix-les-Bains we look attentively at the mountain of Epine, we shall discover at one of its extremities an enormous isolated rock, commanding all the others and presenting the appearance of an immense tooth. Above Bordeau this rock has quite a menacing aspect, being apparently suspended over the head of the spectator. However it is less dangerous than it looks, and few tourists care to miss the opportunity of making this beautiful excursion, which may be effected in several ways. The best way perhaps is to repair to Le Bourget; arrived at the village we take the excellent forest road opening behind the Mairie, and affording frequent glimpses of a truly enchanting landscape. In the middle ground appears the pictu- resque town of Aix enveloped in a light haze in the midst of a verdant valley, and attracting the attention of the tourist, who also sees in the distance, on the right, Chamb6ry, domi- Aix-les-Baius. 4 - 50 Viezu of the Lake and a/ the Dent dii Chat from the I/ill af Tresserz'cs. nated by the snowy summits of the Alps. After an easy walk tf three hours we reach a chalet uilt by the Chambery branch of the French Alpine Club near a clear spring which invites us to make a halt and take lunch. From this chalet to the top of the peak is one hour's •walk. This distance is easily accomplished, and we arrive at the summit (4911 feet), which has been rendered more easily accessible by means of iron railings. The view now embraces a vast horizon extending on one side to Mont Blanc, on the other side as far as Lyons, which can be distinguished with a good field-glass in clear weather; nearer to us we have the Rhone meandering through the valley, the town of Belley, the fort of Pierre-Chatel, and lastly the little town of Yenne. - 51 We descend without difficulty to the Vacherie or to the col of the Mont du Chat, whence we can either return by- carriage, ordescend toBordeauand take the steamboat backto Aix. Cascade of Gr4sy and Gorge of the Sierroz. The waterfall of Gresy has become celebrated in conse- quence of the catastrophe which cost the life of Madame de Broc, who was drowned here in 1813. It is formed by the waters of the Daisse and the Sierroz, which unite at this point and bound with loud uproar down the hol- lows which they have ex- cavated in the course of ages in the limestone rock, forming a thousand little cascades, and presenting a very remarkable sight. For the past two years a new attraction has been added to that which the cascade itself offers to the visitor. By means of a dam Gorge of the Siemz constructed by the proprietor the level of the Sierroz has been sufficiently elevated to permit of a small steamboat, the "Chris- topher Columbus" , penetrating twelve or thirteen hundred yards up the ravine, where another pretty cascade is found; here the visitor may imagine himself for the space of twenty minutes in the midst of one of the primeval forests of America. Grotto of Bange. The Bauges road, which we select in making this excur- sion, affords pretty points of view throughout its entire length. Visitors generally drive to the grotto of Bange. — 52 — The cavern forms a kind of tunnel more than three hun- dred yards in length, tolerably broad most of the distance, and accessible by two openings. That to the north is a large vestibule which might well have been formed by the hand of man, the gallery beyond is rather low. The other less spa- cious opening, leads on the contrary to a lofty gallery, tra- versed by rivulets, sometimes obstructed by enormous stalactites, and terminating in a spacious apartment thirty or forty feet in height, at the end of which is a small lake. It is customary to fasten lighted candle-ends or Bengal lights on to planks which are then launched on this pond; the vaulted roof, covered with stalactites, is thus illuminated, and presents a very remarkable appearance. Lake of Bourget. Of all the excursions which can be made at Aix-les-Bains, one of the most picturesque is beyond dispute that on Lake Bourget. The aspect of this sheet of water, it is true, is somewhat stern, and it lacks the smiling features of the Lake of Annecy, but though the thoughts it awakens are perhaps of a slightly melancholy character, in its absolute repose and poetic gran- deur it possesses great charms for the admirer of nature. It moreover inspired one of our most illustrious poets with thoughts which Niedermayer afterwards set to one of his most touching melodies. The Lake of Lamartine is well known everywhere. In order to make a complete tour of the lake at one's ease it is necessary to hire a boat at the Grand Port or at Cornin. In the summer season the steamboat also affords us an opportunity of visiting the Abbey of Hautecombe and the canal of Savieres. Le Bourget. A village situated at the southern extremity of the lake. It may be reached from Aix either by steamer, by rowing-boat. — 53 - or by the road fringing the lake. It is much frequented by pleasure parties of visitors intending to lunch or dine here, or to make the ascent of the Dent du Chat. In the midst of marshes and fields are seen the ruins of the Castle of Bourget, the favourite residence of the Counts and Dukes of Savoy up to the sixteenth century. A. visit to the church of Le Bourget is interesting. It possesses sculptures of great antiquity, and the crypt contains two stones regarded as ancient altars ; also an inscription to Mercury from the Eoman temple on the Mont du Chat. Lastly there is a priory founded by Humbert I. and rebuilt in great part in the sixteenth century by Oddon de Luyrieux, whose mutilated .escutcheons are still to be seen here. Bordeau. Situated at an altitude of 948 feet above the level of the sea, and in a most picturesque and agreeable posiiion on an escarpment of the west bank of the Lake of Bourget, the Castle of Bordeau owes its origin to the powerful family of the Seyssels of Aix. Built in the ninth century, it gave birth in the Middle Ages to the Counts and afterwards to the Dukes of Savoy. Frequently destroyed and restored since its first erection, but few traces of the original structure remain. In 1792 it was sold as national property. Bordeau was formerly a hunting-lodge of the Princes of the House of Savoy. The castle may be reached from Aix either by the Boutget road or by boat. From the shores of the lake shady footpaths "cut in the rock lead up to the gardens and terraces of the castle, following the upward course of a limpid brook whose waters rush in headlong haste down the steep slope and form a little cascade as they fall into the lake. In order to obtain the best view of the castle of Bor- deau it is necessary to row along the shore of the lake a short distance, as far as the little bay or inlet of the Pechcurs. | OkILFu.'sI r Castle of Bordeau Hautecombe Abbey. The traveller approaching Aix-les-Bains by the railway sees on his right during some minutes a stately edifice oc- cupying a promontory which runs out into the Lake of Bourget, — 55 - and standing boldly out against the grassy slopes of the Dent du Chat. This is the royal Abbey of Hautecoinbe, where rest the remains of the Counts and Dukes of Savoy from Humbert the Fortunate and Germaine of Zahringen, his wife, down to Antoine of Savoy, brother of Charles Emmanuel 11. ; the mortal remains of the succeeding sovereigns were deposited in the Superga, near Turin. According to M. C. Blanchard it was in the year 1125 — other authors say 1135 — that the present Abbey of Hautecombe was founded by Cistercian or Bernardine monks, who had abandoned by their patron's advice a monastery which they inhabited at a place named Charai'a on the other side of the Lake of Bourget. This monastery was at first ruled by regular abbots — such as actually discharged the duties of the office. The first dignitary of this order of whom definite mention is made was a prelate of the name of Vivian, an intimate friend of St. Bernard. Among the other regular abbots who made their mark in the history of the abbey we may name Rudolph I. ; Henry, abbot of Hautecombe, who afterwards became abbot of Citeaux, and finally Cardinal-Archbishop of Albano, and who preached the third Crusade ; Robert, who in his capacity of legate of Pope Gregory IX. successfully fulfilled several very important missions; John and Conrad, the former of whom made it his task to enforce respect for the rights and privileges of the Abbey, while the latter concentrated his endeavours upon in- creasing its revenues and possessions. Amadeus III., Count of Savoy, was the first prince of this house whose history was intimately connected with that of the Abbey of Hautecombe. All his successors lavished benefits upon the monastery, which enjoyed uninterrupted prosperity under the regular abbots, the last of whom was James de Morria. From the appointment of the first commendatory abbot the Cistercian order at Hautecombe seems to have entered upon 56 its downward course, in spite of all the distinguished prelates who were at its head, and in spite of the efforts made by St. Francis of Sales himself to accustom the monks to a more regular and orderly existence. Among the commendatory ab- bots, — that is to say, such as held the abbey in commendam, r^-^ ~----^,^^ with the right of applying •^ \. part of the revenues to \ their own uses, — one of \ the most distinguished was Alphonse Delbene, celebrated for his literary productions. If the morality of the monks was not all that could be desired under the commendatory abbots, the material prosperity of the monastery had also considerably diminished. The works of restoration undertaken at different periods were carried out but indifferently, and it was only in 1788 that the Abbey was put into a thorough state of repair, just before the outbreak Hautecomhe Abbey. of the French Revolution drove the monks from their convent. Abandoned during the revolutionary epoch, an attempt was made in 1799 to utilize for industrial purposes the ex- tensive buildings which would otherwise have again quickly fallen into a state of dilapidation. A manufactory of faience ware was accordingly established here, and its products ac- quired a certain reputation,' being excellent imitations of the best English pottery of this class ; but the manufacture ceased '^^^J Hautecoinl e Abbey Queen IMarit. C]iriititie\ Protecting the Arts" m 1804, and the aban- donment of this enter- prise accelerated the ruin of the edifice in ■which the experiment had been made. The estate of Hauteconibe, which had become a purely agricultural domain, was purchased by King Charles Felix, who restored the ancient church to its former condition and to the state in which it is now found. - 58 — Begun in 1824 under the direction of M. Melano, the work of restoration was finished in two years, but it was not until 1843 that the decorations were completed, by the widow of Charles Albert. The principal (western) fagade is of Seyssel stone, and the architecture is the florid Late Gothic, or what is known to French antiquaries as the Ogival style. Its lower part bears statues symbolical of the three theo- logical virtues. Faith, Hope, and Charity; above these we see the four cardinal virtues, Prudence, Fortitude, Temperance, and Justice. The entrance to the church is through a kind of vestibule separated from the remainder of the edifice by a wall with one doorway. This forms the Chapel of Belley, founded by Claude d'Estavaye, commendatory abbot and bishop of Belley. It now bears the name of the Royal Chapel, and contains the tomb of its founder. The church also contains the tombs of King Charles Felix and of Marie Christine, his wife. The main edifice consists of a nave with side aisles and transept, in the form of a Latin cross. Its ornamentation is extremely rich and varied. More than three hundred statues of Carrara marble and white stone contrast strikingly with the black pavement. There are also a large number of fine paintings attributed to the brothers Vacca and to Gonino. After having inspected the church a visit is usually paid to the royal apartments, which are extremely simple in character ; the monastery itself is not open to the public. From here a pretty path conducts the visitor to the tower or light- house of Gessens, the summit of which commands a view of the lake in its whole extent. Here Rousseau wrote some of the most charming pages of his romance of "Emile". About a quarter of an hour's walk up the slope, under the shade of a group of chestnut-trees, and at the bottom of a little natural basin clothed with verdure, rises the intermittent spring known as the Fontaine des Merveilles. Castle of Chdtillon. Situated af the northern extremity of the lake, the Castle of Chatillon occupies an isolated rocky eminence commanding the lake and the plain of La Chantagne, and forming a superb point of view. This is one of the easiest and most delightful excursions within the reach of visitors at Aix. It may be made either by boat or by rail to Chindrieux Station, whence it is an easy walk to the summit of the hill on which the castle stands. The architectural remains are extremely interesting from an archaeological point of view. The Castle of Chatillon was the birth-place of Pope Celestine IV., who was living in re- tirement at the monastery of Hautecombe when Gregory IV. elevated him to the dignity of Cardinal, afterwards creating him Bishop of Sainte-Sabine. Lacustrine Settlements. The search for lacustrine antiquities of the Bronze Age affords an antiquarian pursuit full of interest for amateurs, and constitutes a useful recreation for visitors at the baths. — 60 - The lacustrine stations, or settlements of the lake-dwellers, on the Lake of Bourget are seven in number. Embarking at the "Grand Port" of Puet, and steering in a southern direction, we first pass the mouth of the Sierroz, then the "Petit Port" of Cornin, and beyond the hill of Tresserves, with its quarries of molasse stone, we find at the base of an escarpment the lacustrine settlement of the Saut, the spcond in importance. In front of the Castle of Bonport is the settlement of FioUets, the lowest of all, which can be successfully explored only when the waters of the lake are at a very low level. Passing the marshes of Viviers, and the village of Le Bourget, with the picturesque ruins of its ancient castle, we see the embouchure of the Leysse ; then coasting the west bank, and passing Bordeau, the Mont da Chat, the Grotto of Raphael, and Hautecombe, we come to the lake settlement of Conjux, of no great importance. After passing the canal of Savieres we reach the bay of ChS,tillon and the settlement which bears its name, where a careful search has been rewarded by the discovery of highly finished objects of industry, including beautiful specimens of pottery with curious ornamentations cut in tin and affixed with resin. Lastly, after passing Bri- son, celebrated for its chestnuts and figs, we arrive at Gresine, with two lacustrine settlements in its little bay. This settlement was the firii to be discovered. During the construction of the railway embankment various objects were found embedded in the sedimentary deposit at the bottom of the lake. The Historical and Archaeological Society of Chambery appointed a commission to explore the different settlements. The labour was continued and the result published by M. L. Rabut. Excavations were also conducted by Count Josselin, M. Costa de Beauregard, and M. A. Perrin, and the results have been published. Gresine is the most extensive settlement, and has been the most thoroughly explored. Continuing our voyage we pass the hill of St. Innocent, i^ith its villas reflected in the blue waters of the lake, and return to Port Puet, passing near the lacustrine station of Meimart, which apparently had but a brief existence, since it has furnished but a very small number of remains. Pigeon Shooting. Races Many other delightful excursions can be undertaken from Aix, such as the Moulin de Prime, the Grottoes of Savigny, and the Chambotte, at the summit of which a chalet-hotel is to be erected which will command a magnificent panorama, and which will be easily accessible by a carriage-road. All these places are but a short distance from Aix, and visitors can have no difficulty in finding their way to them; information as to the best mode of making the different ex- cursions is readily afforded at the hotels or at the offices of the French Alpine Club. H'ports. In addition to the various amusements to be found at Aix-les-Bains in the Casinos or in excursions in the environs of the town, we may now add the horse races organized by a society which has acquired a beautiful race-course in the valley of Marlioz, and the pigeon shooting matches which have be- come very popular with a certain class of visitors during the past two years; lastly a new rifle ground on the Grand- Port road. PDBLICATIONS OF ORELL FiJsai & Co. AT ZURICH SOLD AT EVERY BOOKSHOP THROUGHOUT THE CONTINENT Sf ITZERLAl AND THE Sre BY S. H. M. BYERS, U. S. Consul at Rome. SECOND EDITION WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND MAPS. '1 vol, in 6** handsomely hound. Price 5 frcs. T HE iAldine^ the leading Art Journal of New- York says of the book : The talent and energy involved in the little book are alike indisputable and the addition which it makes to the general knowledge of Switrerland is something remarkable; while it possesses literary features of an odd excellence which will be noticed hereafter. PANORAMA DU MONT-BLANC dessin^ d'apr^s nature par y. Webtr. Illustrateur de lEurope illustr^e. Prix 8oCts. /^ ARTE DU CHEMIN DE PER DU ST. GOTHARD V^.^ (Carte Dufour). Echelle I : 100,000. Prix fr. I. — V UE A VOL D'OISEAU de la ligne du ST. GOTHARD par y. M'e/ier- Prix fr. I. — r" ARTE DU CHEMIN DE FER D'ARLBERG V y par P. Kheinberger. PHx fr. 3. — This chromolithography, which has a length of two meters, is folded in pocket-book size and supplied with a stiff paper-cover. r^ ARTE EN RELIEF DU LAC DES IV CANTONS V y et de ses environs par Delkeskamp. Prix fr. I. 50 #i^i^'t##i^i^'t'tfr't't|'iri|'#i^i^'t'$''fr '!■'$■#'$' "TT does not fall to the lot of everyone to go to Corinth" X was a saying of the ancients. In the inrerse sense one might say: there is hardly anybody who has not at least past through Switzerland; for that charming little country is situated on the meeting point of most of the great Continental routes. It is not only its lakes and mountains and the varying peacefulness and ruggedness of its beautiful landscapes which interest the tourist, it is also its numerous factories of fancy articles ; and, when the building is set off by grand and picturesque surroundings, as is often the case, the traveller has a double reason for stopping, for he can learn and admire a,t the same time. It is particularly the case with the little village of Serri^res, in the canton of Neuchatel, which gives shelter in a narrow gorge of the Jura mountains to the celebrated "Ph. Suchard" chocolate factory. Let one imagine a large fissure-like depression, at the bottom of which there rolls for a distance of 700 meters, from the source to the lake, an impetuous torrent lined on both sides with buildings, factories, and workshops of all kinds. Two boldly designed stone-bridges of very great height are used, one for the high-road, the other for the railway-line. On the higher edge of the gorge there rise the high pointed towers of an old poplar- surrounded castle, whilst at the other end the elegant outline of the gailded dome of a minaret constructed by the founder of the "Suchard" factory in remembrance of a journey to Palestine stands out boldly against the blue waters of the lake. To the west we have the gigantic ridges of the VI EW OF THE CHOI of PH. SUCHARD, N :OLATE FACTORIES ilUCHATEL (Switzerland). mountains of Boudry and of la Tourne with a large valley between. To the east we have the town of Neuch4tel with its towers, colleges, and quays of monumental dimensions, half hidden behind a belt of trees. To the south the immense surface of the lake is crowned in the distance by the Alps from the Santis to the Mont-Blanc. One could not imagine a more picturesque spot or a grander panorama. There one of the most interesting industrial establishments of Switzerland has been flourishing for more than half a century. The " Suchard" factory deserves in every respect to be mentioned as a model for the superiority of its products as well as for the altogether modern perfection of its organisation. It gives employment to quite a little world of work-people, who are well cared for by the firm. From a scientific point of view also there is material for a thorough study for the traveller who is interested in social questions and the conditions under which the workman lives, and after a visit to Serri^res he will carry away with him the impression that the " Suchard" house have fairly realised their original and significant devise "utile dulci." r ,4- /i-*.v. --- Illustrated Europe. Eiroiaisciie f aMerMliler. i L'Suope illnstrie. This Collection is sold at every bookshop throughout the Continent. General Depots will he found in the following towns: — Germany. 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